# [Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club



## sexybastard

you can add me


----------



## Killhouse

Nice setup! Added.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

hey, I'll join. 





































everyone who joins this thread should also join the water cooling club in my sig.


----------



## Ragsters

Im in! Here is my rig.
http://www.techpowerup.com/gallery/2274.html


----------



## Killhouse

Some very sexy rigs there, I'll try and get my pics up tomorrow.


----------



## unixwizzrd

here's mine.. just put it in today and I've realized about a 20C drop in temps over the Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro Rev 2 HS/F.. I'm impressed!

Attachment 129888

With 4 instances of World Community Grid running I went from 59c to 38c. Nice..


----------



## mav2000

Im here tooo. Please add me....just a quick question guys...how much tim is required for this setup to work optimally. I am using mx2 with the spread method, so a very thin layer...but looking at the copper plate and the finish on it, I would think more would be required.


----------



## Killhouse

I tried applying the MX2 a few times before I was happy. I ended up putting 5 small dots on the chip and then mounting H50. Seemed to give the best result (by observation), if you're not hitting stupid temperatures then you probably did it fine.


----------



## fraudbrand

In my Obsidian


----------



## dragonxwas

add me in too..
jus odered mine..will arrive in 3-4 days







yipeee..


----------



## mav2000

Am not completely bowled over with the results, but maybe theres something wrong...just want to check with u guys....I have mounted it with the tubes on the top side of the case and the corsair logo right side up. I used Mx2, using a card to spread it over the CPU and I have two yateloons at high speed on the rad pushing air out of the case. I have two 60-70 cfm fans on the side window pushing air in...so I am really wondering what the issue here is.

Its also takes a good amount of time to cool down...is this normal...my pump runs at around 1300-1350 rpm and is on 100% all the time. The two yateloons are running at 2000 rpm all the time....i tried the rad out with 1450 GT's and the yateloons make little to no difference while being a lot louder...what do u guys suggest?

Man, my Baram was better than this.


----------



## ryanrenolds08

Add me add me! I will upload pictures as soon as possible.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mav2000* 
Am not completely bowled over with the results, but maybe theres something wrong...just want to check with u guys....I have mounted it with the tubes on the top side of the case and the corsair logo right side up. I used Mx2, using a card to spread it over the CPU and I have two yateloons at high speed on the rad pushing air out of the case. I have two 60-70 cfm fans on the side window pushing air in...so I am really wondering what the issue here is.

Its also takes a good amount of time to cool down...is this normal...my pump runs at around 1300-1350 rpm and is on 100% all the time. The two yateloons are running at 2000 rpm all the time....i tried the rad out with 1450 GT's and the yateloons make little to no difference while being a lot louder...what do u guys suggest?

Man, my Baram was better than this.

You have the same processor as me, granted I'm still at stock but I get around 32C idle and never more than 48C load. Not sure about ambients, quite warm english weather









What sort of temps are you hitting? Sounds like you should be lower than me with that setup.


----------



## mav2000

Well yes I am around the same...the C2 revision does run hot...so around 31-32 idle and 48 load on Prime...the baram gave me 29-30 idle and 48 load as well....so not all that much better for stock..

Does it take a long time to cool down for u as well...

Ambients are around 23-24 degrees.


----------



## Toan

Put me on the list ill post a pic up when i get home from class


----------



## Killhouse

It cools down from max load to idle temps in about 3-4 mins I'd geuss. I'll post some OCCT graphs later, when I'm done working


----------



## mav2000

Done...i'll get OCCT and run it to...let me know what settings ure running.


----------



## ntuason




----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mav2000* 
Done...i'll get OCCT and run it to...let me know what settings ure running.

Running a standard 1 hour test now: 1h 0 min, medium data set, priority normal. Hyperthreading disabled. I'll post back in an hour.


----------



## Killhouse

This should give you an idea:


----------



## mav2000

Just started mine as well...BTW what voltage are u running the cpu?


----------



## Killhouse

1.425 I believe.


----------



## mav2000

well there we have it...I am running stock at 1.25...........and till now the temps seem pretty similar.....so looks like reducing the vcore does not help much as I was getting the same temps, but lower idles on my air cooler.

What fans are u using and whats it setup to do...pull air in or push air out? And Ambients...must be much cooler there than here


----------



## Killhouse

I'm running push/pull with an antec tri-cool and the H50 stock cooler. They exhaust out the back of my case, I dont like the idea of hot air being blasted all over my mobo xD Seems to work even though its not in agreement with Corsairs instructions.


----------



## 45nm

I actually suggested this to my friend. He owns one right now actually. I'm planning on getting one with a Corsair Obsidian 800D possibly next year.


----------



## yellowtoblerone

Quote:


Originally Posted by *45nm* 
I actually suggested this to my friend. He owns one right now actually. I'm planning on getting one with a Corsair Obsidian 800D possibly next year.

You might have missed a great deal actually. NCIX had it on sale last week for 299.99 for the case and te H50. However I'm sure they'll do it, or similar deal will arise again.

After more planning its evident that to be able to fit my evga classified control panels I'd have to get rid of my true. I have to say I'm very excited and look forward in seeing mine in the mail soon as well.


----------



## Moparman

Ok so i was just wondering how good do these cool.


----------



## Killhouse

Scroll up and you can see our graphs, I think you'll find it'll match a high-end air cooler. It hardly belongs in the WC forums though to be honest.

The main attraction over a TRUE or a mega is that it keeps your case quite clean and organised, and there's hardly any pressure on the motherboard. I'll be able to give a more in-depth opinion when I start OCing, but so far I'm really impressed.


----------



## mav2000

Im running it at 1.425v 3.8 ghz as we speak and will upload the data. Not going above 55 for now...looks like I can push it a bit more.

Im running it exhausted out of the case as well....


----------



## hitman1985

well im in :









ill clean the cables when i get the big gpu outa here


----------



## Killhouse

Maybe it's just the camera angle but your tubing looks like its taking quite a tight corner. Not that that's a bad thing, but I dont think mine can bend that much! Interesting PSU mount xD


----------



## Toan

Here's my set up


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone* 
After more planning its evident that to be able to fit my evga classified control panels I'd have to get rid of my true. I have to say I'm very excited and look forward in seeing mine in the mail soon as well.

Post some pics when it gets here, I'm enjoying all these!


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Maybe it's just the camera angle but your tubing looks like its taking quite a tight corner. Not that that's a bad thing, but I dont think mine can bend that much! Interesting PSU mount xD

yeah, im not quiet done yet, i changed the psu to a 620hx and im selling the 5870 currently on the bay, goin back to 4870/90 and getting a netbook as im about to join the army









the rig wont be modded too much, just adding some different pull fan in the back and maybe some sleeving


----------



## meru

Ordered mine yesterday to go with my 800D!

BTW, i asked this on the corsair forum but had no replies, can i fit this cooler on the EVGA E758 mobo? I'm mainly concerned with the huge heatsink next to the CPU that might prevent me from mounting this to the back of the case.


----------



## Deano12345

Komplett just got these in stock over here,they look like a nice cooler.

I'd pick one up if I hadn't already got my IFX-14

I am doing another build for someone in a while,I might get this for it


----------



## CryWin

Does anyone have a picture of how this looks in an Antec 900?


----------



## antonio8

I'm in.

Here are a couple of pics.

I have a push/pull setup blowing into case. I really hope that these temps are close to what core temp shows.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *meru* 
Ordered mine yesterday to go with my 800D!

BTW, i asked this on the corsair forum but had no replies, can i fit this cooler on the EVGA E758 mobo? I'm mainly concerned with the huge heatsink next to the CPU that might prevent me from mounting this to the back of the case.

The block itself is quite small compared to an air cooler heatsink, I doubt you'll have any problems with fitting that. As for the radiator - well its only 120mm wide, so if a normal rear fan fits above your heatsink then the rad should too.

I wish I could get some pics up with my Antec 902 but sadly my camera is MIA


----------



## Killhouse

I should add, it sticks out about 20mm on each end in the other direction that might interfere with the backplate for expansion slots. Since I'm using push/pull, the fan between the case and the radiator meant it could fit around without bending the slots with a hammer. I assume wherever you mount the Rad you already have a fan, so you can set up push/pull with that fan and the fan supplied and build the same setup I have. Good luck!


----------



## elo820

How do you guys make it push and pull? I cant figure it out =P


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *elo820* 
How do you guys make it push and pull? I cant figure it out =P

the radiator is basically sandwiched between two fans. the h50 only comes with 4 screws to mount the fan but the easiest way to mount two is just to use two diagonally on each side.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Got the Corsair H50!

Some pics;

*Before: Stock AMD heatsink*


















*After:*


















*Temps*; The wavy lines is do to my setup being below the ac vent in my room... when central air comes on my temps drops.


----------



## mav2000

I was wondering about that chart as I have never seen anything like that....but then I read ure comment.....Wow thats like 10 degrees drop with an AC...awesome....keep ure AC on while benching and u could get some good scores. I am running close to 57 degrees with my 965 on the same settings 1.425V and with a push pull...ofcourse my ambients are clsoe to 25-26.


----------



## kyleax1

you can add me

Push/Pull as exhaust








































This is how I make sure I get fresh air into the rad


----------



## Willhemmens

Hi, got my H50 a few days ago, giving great temps at the moment, about 6'c less than my lapped S1283 was giving me. Man the pump is quite, the only way I can know its running is to check RPM. I origanally was running it on the back of my case as a intake push/pull, but as I run my case without either sides on, I have switched it over so im exhausting instead. I will upload some photo's later. What im interested in is, has anyone done any mods to a H50 like replacing the tubing or rad?


----------



## The viking

Hey H50 owners!

Could one of you tell me about the temps your getting on your -not overclocked- i7 920's?
I hope some of you have such a system. Im thinking of buying the Lian li V351 case, and watercooling the cpu with this kit. Im still a bit on the fence though. Think anyone of you could change my mind by showing some awesome temps?


----------



## Killhouse

Can't really help with i7 temps, but expect to be about 10C lower than stock cooling temps for idle and load. Hopefully someone here can confirm.


----------



## mav2000

Whats the max pump rpm?


----------



## Killhouse

According to BIOS/Speedfan my pump runs at 1460 RPM(ish).


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


According to BIOS/Speedfan my pump runs at 1460 RPM(ish).


Yeah, its ment to run at around 1400 RPM.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mav2000*


I was wondering about that chart as I have never seen anything like that....but then I read ure comment.....Wow thats like 10 degrees drop with an AC...awesome....keep ure AC on while benching and u could get some good scores. I am running close to 57 degrees with my 965 on the same settings 1.425V and with a push pull...ofcourse my ambients are clsoe to 25-26.


If I close the air vent I idle around 44c Is that too hot for a 3.8Ghz overclock?

I may need to re-seat this thing if so...


----------



## ounderfla69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *meru*


Ordered mine yesterday to go with my 800D!

BTW, i asked this on the corsair forum but had no replies, can i fit this cooler on the EVGA E758 mobo? I'm mainly concerned with the huge heatsink next to the CPU that might prevent me from mounting this to the back of the case.


I have it in Push pull with a 140mm Scythe fan that uses 120mm mounts and it just fits with the heat spreader from the mosfet.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


If I close the air vent I idle around 44c Is that too hot for a 3.8Ghz overclock?

I may need to re-seat this thing if so...


That seems really hot. I get max load 47C right now, I'm prime95 testing at 3790MHz.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


That seems really hot. I get max load 47C right now, I'm prime95 testing at 3790MHz.


I max out at 60c.

What are your idle and ambient temps like?


----------



## elo820

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


the radiator is basically sandwiched between two fans. the h50 only comes with 4 screws to mount the fan but the easiest way to mount two is just to use two diagonally on each side.


Lol that helped a lot. Should of thought of that one. Thanks for the help =]


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


If I close the air vent I idle around 44c Is that too hot for a 3.8Ghz overclock?

I may need to re-seat this thing if so...



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


That seems really hot. I get max load 47C right now, I'm prime95 testing at 3790MHz.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


I max out at 60c.

What are your idle and ambient temps like?


I just reseated the heatsink and temps are the same.. 40c idle and 60c load.

Visiting the Corsair's official forums my temps fall in-line with others with overclock CPUs.

Whats your secret Killhouse? you got to have one...


----------



## mav2000

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
If I close the air vent I idle around 44c Is that too hot for a 3.8Ghz overclock?

I may need to re-seat this thing if so...

Well, if u close the vents then there is no airflow, so 44 degrees at that OC would be fine. I would suggest u run it without an AC, unless rue ambients are very hot. This cooler works best with low ambients.


----------



## mav2000

Killhouse are u on a C3 batch chip?

BTW my pump runs at around 1340-1350...is that OK???? does 50 rpm make a difference in a pump?


----------



## ToxicAdam

Do anyone here control the fan speed via bios?


----------



## ToxicAdam

Lowered my CPU volts from 1.42 to 1.40 and now load temps top off at 54c

Don't know how stable 1.40v is on a 3.8Ghz overclock though..


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
Do anyone here control the fan speed via bios?

Perhaps people who are going for silence and are using the stock fan but most people use 3 pin fans and a fan controller.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Perhaps people who are going for silence and are using the stock fan but most people use 3 pin fans and a fan controller.

I see, thanks.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
Lowered my CPU volts from 1.42 to 1.40 and now load temps top off at 54c

*Don't know how stable 1.40v is on a 3.8Ghz overclock though..*

nope, just failed OCCT test.. trying 1.41v now


----------



## Rewindlabs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
nope, just failed OCCT test.. trying 1.41v now

Goodluck....i am stuck at 1.58/1.60v









Ahhh well at least my cooler can back it up


----------



## mav2000

Its more a case of ure ambients i think....1.60v on any air cooler is a bit tough to hold through a stress test.


----------



## Killhouse

I'm on a C2 965 chip, ambients are around 25C I think? No way of checking. I live in the south of england though. How about yours?

I'm using an Antec 902 so general case airflow isnt a problem. Cant remember my exact BIOS settings but it's something like 223x17; 1.425 CPU Voltage; +0.1; CPU NV VID, +0.1 NB Voltage; +0.1 vdimm; NB multi 10x; HT multi 9x.

I'll confirm again, Idle around 36C and load around 47C using prime95 1024k tests. If I use the CPU-intensive OCCT test it's probably a little higher but I havnt checked that. Hope that helps.


----------



## mav2000

Ive done a host of tests with OCCT...with differnet fans and at stock as well as OC...will put in the results soon.

Bottom line..the H50 is as good as the best air coolers, but thats about it. The case overall stays cooler, with the NB and Mosfet area being abit cooler, but thats the extent of the gains.


----------



## DUNC4N

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The viking* 
Hey H50 owners!

Could one of you tell me about the temps your getting on your -not overclocked- i7 920's?
I hope some of you have such a system. Im thinking of buying the Lian li V351 case, and watercooling the cpu with this kit. Im still a bit on the fence though. Think anyone of you could change my mind by showing some awesome temps?









Look here http://www.hardforum.com/showpost.ph...72&postcount=9 it fits


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
nope, just failed OCCT test.. trying 1.41v now

I'm running 1.44 FYI, currently still at 3.79 Ghz. Struggling to get the CPU multi any higher, I think I need to keep increasing CPU NB VID but it's going slow. Temps are creeping up too - 48 Load now.


----------



## ToxicAdam

1.42v CPU-Z(1.44v Bios) is stable for me at 3.8ghz.


----------



## elo820

What fans would you guys recommend for push pull that isn't too loud and gives good airflow? Currently my friend is using my Cooler master R4 fans.


----------



## Killhouse

I'm using an Antec Tricool from my case and the stock fan from the H50 package, it holds up very well and is quiet. Though if you want to replace them I might suggest a pair of "Noctua NF-P12 Vortex Control 1300RPM". Quite low CFM but high static pressure, and its very very quiet too.


----------



## Newbie2009

Getting this for xmas from the misses. with two Nochua fans. YEY!


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
1.42v CPU-Z(1.44v Bios) is stable for me at 3.8ghz.

well, not quite lol

I did a few more stress test and it pass two and fail two with 1.42v.

Is it okay to keep my voltage at 1.42v knowing its barely enough for a torture test?


----------



## Killhouse

I dont really know that much about overclocking to be honest







I think I have a stable OC at 1.41V and 3.776 GHz here... but I'm using 236x16 so the rest of my system is getting quite a work out. I've tried going with low bus speed and high multi, and low bus speed but high multi and I just can't break 3.8 GHz, even pumping my voltages right up to 1.52. Dont know what to do really..

*EDIT:* Call me stupid, but is cool'n'quiet going to affect my stability?


----------



## DraganUS

Sign me in


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I dont really know that much about overclocking to be honest







I think I have a stable OC at 1.41V and 3.776 GHz here... but I'm using 236x16 so the rest of my system is getting quite a work out. I've tried going with low bus speed and high multi, and low bus speed but high multi and I just can't break 3.8 GHz, even pumping my voltages right up to 1.52. Dont know what to do really..

I went ahead and bump it to 1.45v in the bios(1.44 cpuz) just for the added comfort... don't want it shutting down in the middle of a game, lol

Quote:

*EDIT:* Call me stupid, but is cool'n'quiet going to affect my stability?
"cool'n'quiet" is automatically turn off when overclocking.


----------



## Killhouse

Hmm, BIOS said it was still on but oh well. Sticking at 3.8 with 1.41 Vcore. I think I prefer the ease of mind than the extra Mhz xD


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DraganUS* 
Sign me in









Post temps please?!


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Hmm, BIOS said it was still on but oh well. Sticking at 3.8 with 1.41 Vcore. I think I prefer the ease of mind than the extra Mhz xD

Mine as well. The easiest way to know is start up cpu-z and check voltage.. does it drop when idle?


----------



## Killhouse

It doesent, no. But it used to flicker at smaller overclocks so I think it was still staying on. I turned it off in BIOS but it didnt have any difference.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Hmm, BIOS said it was still on but oh well. Sticking at 3.8 with 1.41 Vcore. I think I prefer the ease of mind than the extra Mhz xD

You have a 965, you already half way there mane! I got a long haul with the 955









1.41v should be perfect for you.


----------



## Killhouse

Yeah, putting it over 3.8 GHz just gives me blue and black screens all over the place. I tried going up to CPU NB VID 1.3V and Vcore of 1.52 (in CPU-Z), boosting memory voltage, NB voltage and lowering timings. But still failed. So I dont know now. I'm pretty happy for now though, I'll have another go in a couple of months when I'm done with my new case


----------



## DraganUS

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
Post temps please?!









Yea, for sure.

Well, I am pumping a 1.431 in BIOS, but in windows in cpu it shows 1.409. Cpu is running @ 4.008Ghz temperatures are @ 51 to 54. I still didnt tighten up to the end all screws since I will do it tommorow. Just waiting for TIM to remelt few times.

Qft: Did u guys replace the stock TIM that came with a H50?
I am asking cus I didnt, and just out of curiosity, what TIM Corsair is using..

I will post some screens when I get back home from school.


----------



## sexybastard

The H50 uses Shin Etsu paste (which is quality stuff). Removing it is a real pain in the ass and I think the max ~1-2c drop isn't worth it.


----------



## Killhouse

I used MX-2 personally, dont know if it made any difference though.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DraganUS* 
Yea, for sure.

Well, I am pumping a 1.431 in BIOS, but in windows in cpu it shows 1.409. Cpu is running @ 4.008Ghz temperatures are @ 51 to 54.

Looks good.

Quote:

Qft: Did u guys replace the stock TIM that came with a H50?
I am asking cus I didnt, and just out of curiosity, what TIM Corsair is using..

I will post some screens when I get back home from school.
"TIM"

What's that?


----------



## Killhouse

Thermal Interface Material a.k.a. Thermal Paste (the gloopey stuff between the heatsink and the processor!)


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I used MX-2 personally, dont know if it made any difference though.

I use Cooler Master ThermalFusion 400


----------



## DraganUS

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
Looks good.

"TIM"

What's that?

Thermal Interface Materials

hehe


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Thermal Interface Material a.k.a. Thermal Paste (the gloopey stuff between the heatsink and the processor!)

Ahhhh, gotcha


----------



## opty165

Hey all. I'm looking into getting this cooler, and since looking through the thread it seems it does pretty well on the phenom II's

So would this cooler be pretty good for my 940BE? I want to try and get 3.8-4.0 stable


----------



## Deegan

got one today for $40 unopened off craigslist. installed it and temps are almost a full 10c lower. ill get a picture up tomorrow when i have good enough light


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *opty165* 
Hey all. I'm looking into getting this cooler, and since looking through the thread it seems it does pretty well on the phenom II's

So would this cooler be pretty good for my 940BE? I want to try and get 3.8-4.0 stable

It's really awesome, there's a lot of variables but this does a lot to help with your CPU temps. Other people suggest that it helps with airflow over your RAM, etc. because there's plenty of room for the air to move around.

Go for it


----------



## ToxicAdam

I notice some of you have the radiator upside down... does this make a difference? I heard something about air-bubbles.


----------



## coreyL

imo if you dont care how it looks and dont want to spend much get the true or whatever is cheaper. if you like the look for watercooling then get a custom loop you made over the bigwater


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Hmm, BIOS said it was still on but oh well. Sticking at 3.8 with 1.41 Vcore. I think I prefer the ease of mind than the extra Mhz xD


I'm told a 64-bit OS would take a tad bit more voltage than a 32-bit. What are you running?


----------



## Killhouse

I'm running Seven 32-bit. That might explain it.


----------



## ToxicAdam

I'm a believer

Push Pull does drop temps

I added a 2nd led fan(2000rpm) and my temps drop from 40c to 36c idle

*Before:*









After


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


I'm a believer

Push Pull does drop temps

I added a second led fan(2000rpm) and my temps drop from 40c to 36c idle


And it looks even more awesome


----------



## ToxicAdam

What fans are you using in push pull configuration? I wonder if a faster rpm fan would garner even better results.


----------



## hxcnero

sign me up. just bought my H50 today. loving my idle temps. gonna check load temps here in a few. sorry pic sucks. took from my phone.


----------



## mav2000

I used GT's as well as yateloon highs and temps dropped by 2-3 degrees at load.


----------



## fencefeet

Lovin' mine

sign me in


----------



## Lukeatluke

Could someone explain me how much better it is compared to Ultra 120 Extreem.Best for me would be screenshot with [email protected] and temperatures..


----------



## the_milk_man

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fencefeet* 
Lovin' mine

sign me in









Do the thumb screws on your ram cooler touch your graphics card?


----------



## meru

Got mine yesterday, The Corsair Family is now complete!


----------



## fencefeet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *the_milk_man*


Do the thumb screws on your ram cooler touch your graphics card?


nope not at all. they would have but instead of using the included screws on the bottom half of the cooler I used some of the teethed screws that normally come with a case. works great


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Hey guys, Im deciding if i should get the H50 or a high end air cooler (thinking of the vigor mongoose III) Or a different air cooled. Im going to be using it for AMD phenom X3 and Asus M4A79XTD EVO mobo. 
Can someone please help me decide? Ive been seeing mixed reviews of both of these.

Sorry if this is the wrong place to post, if it is please let me know where i should.









thank you
chris


----------



## Killhouse

You're pretty much going to match a high end cooler with this setup. In the public eye it seems to rate slightly above a TRUE and slightly below a megahalems. It depends a lot on the setup, but this cooler will certainly do you no wrong. You also get more cool points in my opinion


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Oh okay. Does this work well with the cpu being OC'd and such? Im gonna have the Antec 902, which has a side fan mount, now... couldnt you mount the system on that instead of the back rear exhaust? Also, ive read with upgrading the fans on it, would it be recomended doing that?

Thanks for the quick response and help







Ya i was interested in the megahalems.


----------



## Killhouse

I use an antec 902 too, personally I use the antec standard fan and the corsair fan. Seems fine. Mounting on the side panel would interfere with my GPU, so I didnt try that. And yeah, its good to go for OCing.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Ahh okay. Thats good to hear. Do you have it so it still pulls air out of the case or did you reverse it so it blows air into the case? Im geting a little ahead of myself. lol. 
After looking at the megahalems, upgrading fans for it would cost more and the bracket for the AM3. So the H50 will be a little cheaper. 
Any other advice?


----------



## Killhouse

I keep it set as antec have it, exhausting out the back.. Didnt want to blow hot air all over the motherboard







Nothing else to say really, except make sure you buy an H50 with an AM bracket included and post a pic when its up!


----------



## tlxxxsracer

So it should say what brackets it includes on the box?
Ya, ill definitely make sure to post pictures. This is my first build. I should be getting everything in the mail monday-tuesday.


----------



## Killhouse

Yeah it should say. I'm not sure if they all ship with AM brackets by default now. Good luck with the build - you picked a great case and a great cooler


----------



## hxcnero

did anyone else end up not using the back plate and weirds screws that came with it
? min came with the plastic back plate and everytime i tried screwing the brackets down the pop in threads would always fall out. >.< i ended up using some washers and the screws from the thermalright AM2 bolt thru kit as well as the metal back plate.


----------



## Killhouse

8 screws come with it, half of them are one size and half of them are another - you really have to look closely to find the smaller ones which you need. I dont know what the other 4 are even for. Spent a few minutes baffled by that one. xD

But no, I used their backplate and their correct screws in the end.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Thanks. Hope it goes well too. Im a type of person who organizes things.. So wiring will be a big PAIN for me


----------



## Killhouse

I hid cables behind the radiator







But the Antec is quite a nice case for cable management. If I wasnt building my own case this summer I'd turn the HD bays backwards and cut a whole for the cables to make my case less cluttered.


----------



## hxcnero

mine came with the funky lookin screws that were only threaded halfway and the screws for the fan/rad. but.i got it setup. and it works great. so no complaints here. you can kinda see what i did in the pic i posted. but my phone camera sucks. lol


----------



## Killhouse

Yeah, the screws are meant to be half threaded. It's weird but it did work in the end. But I dont blame you for trying something else!


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Okay, thats good. I think im gonna try and zip-tie cables along the edges and such and use wire clips. Im very methodical when it comes to that stuff







thatll take me the longest, but itll be worth it. Any other suggestions bout the 902?


----------



## mav2000

Are u guys using the new metal bracket for am2 for the same plastic one? Is the metal one any better?


----------



## ToxicAdam

Since I'm terrified of the pump failing on me I have core-temp running with overheat shutdown feature enable. If the temps go higher than your settings it will shut down the PC.

Am I being paranoid?


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


Since I'm terrified of the pump failing on me I have core-temp running with overheat shutdown feature enable. If the temps go higher than your settings it will shut down the PC.

Am I being paranoid?


Nope,just safe









Hope someone can help me here,I might be building an M-ATX rig for a family member and I was thinking of using the H50.The case will probably be a Lian Li-V351 and Im wondering will this (the H50) fit.With the case,the only fan is the 120mm at the front so the rad would have to sit behind that,but after seeing completed builds,it looks very tight.

Can anyone say yay or nay to this idea ?


----------



## ToxicAdam

Yes.

Google: Lian Li-V351 Corsair H50


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


Since I'm terrified of the pump failing on me I have core-temp running with overheat shutdown feature enable. If the temps go higher than your settings it will shut down the PC.

Am I being paranoid?


I do this too - coretemp and the motherboard are both set to auto-shutdown if the temp gets to 57 degrees. A temperature like that can only mean the pump failed or someone set my bed on fire to raise the ambient


----------



## Mootsfox

I was thinking about getting one of these so I can actually have an exhaust fan again! Right now the clearance between the spot for a rear fan and my megahalems is too tight, so the system exhausts from the heatsink fan.


----------



## hxcnero

im kinda paranoid about leaving my system on almost 24/7 now. is it safe to do so? whats the MTBF on the pump?


----------



## zomgiwin

anyone do any sort of mods to these things?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hxcnero*


im kinda paranoid about leaving my system on almost 24/7 now. is it safe to do so? whats the MTBF on the pump?


I wouldnt worry, you can leave an autoshutdown on as a precaution but its unlikely that it's going to fail on you.

Someone in another thread said that he damaged his motherboard trying to install the H50, he wrote to Corsair and they replaced the H50 AND bought him a new *Asus* motherboard









So expect some good support even if the "Sh** hits the CPU fan"


----------



## ardentx

Here is mine.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I do this too - coretemp and the motherboard are both set to auto-shutdown if the temp gets to 57 degrees. A temperature like that can only mean the pump failed or someone set my bed on fire to raise the ambient









I have mine set to 62c









....wonder if my motherboard has this auto-shutdown feature


----------



## meru

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hxcnero*


did anyone else end up not using the back plate and weirds screws that came with it
? min came with the plastic back plate and everytime i tried screwing the brackets down the pop in threads would always fall out. >.< i ended up using some washers and the screws from the thermalright AM2 bolt thru kit as well as the metal back plate.



Yeah I got this one too, I guess they're all shipping this now since the brackets support Socket 775/1156/1366/AM2/AM3.

The 8 long threaded screws are indeed very confusing, 4 are thin threaded the other 4 are thick threaded and i have no idea which to use cause the actual manual shows it as having all the same screws.

I wish they kept the old 1366 metal backplate and retention bracket


----------



## opty165

well i guess i'll be joining the club after today lol, im going to be driving up to the albany bestbuy to pick one of these up!


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ardentx*


Here is mine.

http://i47.tinypic.com/15p3m6g.jpg

http://i46.tinypic.com/73pkba.jpg

http://i50.tinypic.com/jpkapi.jpg


Looks clean!









How's the temps?


----------



## Mootsfox

Bought one today, $63 with employee discount


----------



## Butmuncher

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hxcnero* 
sign me up. just bought my H50 today. loving my idle temps. gonna check load temps here in a few. sorry pic sucks. took from my phone.










Hi , any chance you could tell me your temps please, i have the same cpu and running at virtually the same clock speeds and i max out at 59c and 40c idle with my silent knight with added fan.


----------



## Deano12345

I'll definitly be looking at getting this now,not for my rig,but for a super small m-ATX build I'll be doing for someone.That is if the stock HSF doesn't fit









Im off to read some reviews on it


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mootsfox* 
Bought one today, $63 with employee discount









Welcome to the club







show us some sexy pics!


----------



## ardentx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
Looks clean!









How's the temps?

At stock my temps were 31c Idle and 48c Load under Prime

OCd to 4.5GHz my IDle temps ate 45c and load is pushing the High 60s early 70s


----------



## kev_b

Sign me up, here's mine.


----------



## Killhouse

Mmm orange fans <3 welcome!


----------



## kev_b

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Mmm orange fans <3 welcome!

All orange but the rear, I'm useing the stock fan from my CM V-8.


----------



## Killhouse

It looks sweet, I'm wondering what will happen if I paint my fans with UV orange paint







:


----------



## BinaryDemon

Not sure if I qualify for membership yet since my new rig isnt quite finished yet... but consider this space reserved.

Im waiting on SSD, 5870, and PSU.

But here is the build in progress-










I'm so tempted to tear apart another computer just to boot it up now and test it out.


----------



## Killhouse

Hang in there, it's gonna be even better with that beast of a graphics card in there! Also I love the arrangement of your H50, the pipes look awesome like that. Got enough RAM there? xD

Actually, it's the same way as mine... you must just be a good photographer!


----------



## Deegan

got a couple crappy pics of mine and some temps. good so far


----------



## hxcnero

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Butmuncher* 
Hi , any chance you could tell me your temps please, i have the same cpu and running at virtually the same clock speeds and i max out at 59c and 40c idle with my silent knight with added fan.


im idleing at ~33c and load with P95 small fft test at ~55-57c @1.52 volts.


----------



## asuindasun

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hxcnero*


im idleing at ~33c and load with P95 small fft test at ~55-57c @1.52 volts.


Holy crap man, do you need the 1.52v to keep 3.7 stable!? Im at 3.8 with 1.45v and a locked multi and i load about the same temp... but dont have this cooler. been keeping an eye on this page to see if it'd be worth getting though.


----------



## ardentx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ardentx*


Here is mine.





























And here is my temps etc

The high were during the torture test for 2 hours. They are usually lower but I have the heating on because it's freezing here, so the ambient is pretty high.


----------



## 3volvedcombat

Pretty good setup. It has changed, i fliped the RAD upside down, changed the corsiar fan with a 2100 rpm xiggy white led fan from my dark knight s1283, and i have a spot cool antec fan, less then a inch away cooling the chipset, gives a nice glow if blue








. 








my 24/7 overclock on a q9550








I tried 1.216volts but it only passed 16 runs till it froze O:








So the question is am i in







.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ardentx* 
And here is my temps etc

The high were during the torture test for 2 hours. They are usually lower but I have the heating on because it's freezing here, so the ambient is pretty high.










My VelociRaptor is really kicking my ass!


----------



## Killhouse

Nice setup 3volvedcombat, I use the same case. You're in.

@ Deegan, I'm going to nick your pic of the case for the front page if thats ok ;-)


----------



## ardentx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Nice setup 3volvedcombat, I use the same case. You're in.

@ Deegan, I'm going to nick your pic of the case for the front page if thats ok ;-)

Can I get in?


----------



## Killhouse

You have been for a couple of days xD


----------



## ardentx

I'm 100% blind, obviously


----------



## Killhouse

You know what causes that, H50 pr0n and an active left hand!


----------



## hxcnero

Quote:



Originally Posted by *asuindasun*


Holy crap man, do you need the 1.52v to keep 3.7 stable!? Im at 3.8 with 1.45v and a locked multi and i load about the same temp... but dont have this cooler. been keeping an eye on this page to see if it'd be worth getting though.


you got lucky on your chip then.







. i got a mediocre 940.
also i was bored yesterday and started testing load temps at higher voltages. load temps never increased. i went up to 1.57 volts and load temps remained the same .


----------



## enigma1934

i kinda scanned the previous pages, but couldn't find if anyone else noticed that the block is copper and the rad is aluminum. i checked on corsairs website. would this cause as issue with galvanic corrosion in the long run? i'm really tempted to purchase one of these, but am unsure as of the moment.


----------



## lardo5150

Quote:


Originally Posted by *enigma1934* 
i kinda scanned the previous pages, but couldn't find if anyone else noticed that the block is copper and the rad is aluminum. i checked on corsairs website. would this cause as issue with galvanic corrosion in the long run? i'm really tempted to purchase one of these, but am unsure as of the moment.

I would be interested in this as well.

Also, would a cooler master 700w PSU be sufficient with my rig? and adding this cooler?


----------



## Enigma8750

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sexybastard* 
you can add me




























Damn Thats a Sexy Case..


----------



## hxcnero

just ran 20 sets of linpack at maximum. load was ~55c @1.52 volts. im liking this cooler more and more now that the AS5 i used is setting in. i ran the test @ 3.8Ghz but i used overdrive for the OC. i took a nap while the test was running so my computer went to sleep as i was passed out. which is why the clock still shows 3.7 >.<. I'll have to test again. but for the first time since i got my 940 when they came out i got 3.8 stable.


----------



## asuindasun

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hxcnero*


just ran 20 sets of linpack at maximum. load was ~55c @1.52 volts. im liking this cooler more and more now that the AS5 i used is setting in. i ran the test @ 3.8Ghz but i used overdrive for the OC. i took a nap while the test was running so my computer went to sleep as i was passed out. which is why the clock still shows 3.7 >.<. I'll have to test again. but for the first time since i got my 940 when they came out i got 3.8 stable.










thats kinda weird that you see no temp increase with the increased volts... wonder if there is a reason for that? I've really liked how my chip is doing though lol. Only reason I haven't gone to a 955 is cause i don't know if it will hit 4.0... and unless i cant get that, i see no point in spending more money with 3.8 from 2.8 stock =D


----------



## hxcnero

cant argue with a 1ghz OC.


----------



## Killhouse

I couldnt get my 965 past 3.8Ghz, but it was my first time. Weird, but whatever I did my system went from fine -> unstable whenever the CPU went above 3.8 - no matter what voltage I put over the CPU.

There must be a way


----------



## hxcnero

what are all your clocks and volts at? NB, HT, CPU etc. are you just using the cpu multiplier to OC?


----------



## Killhouse

I'm back at stock now. I got my system stable with 236 multi and the CPU underclocked. Then I raised the CPU multi back to 17 I think, but beyond that I couldnt get further.

I had something like: NB +0.2V, CPU NB +0.2V, DIMM +0.1/2V. I underclocked the HT as I did it, keeping it around 2000Mhz.


----------



## lardo5150

I am really considering this cooler.

How does it compare to a meg or true? Will it actually provide lower temps over a meg (which I have now but am considering getting rid of).

On my stock i7, my meg is giving me idle temps of around 30-33. While gaming my temps have gotten to 41.
If this cooler will help really lower that temp so that I can OC my i7, I will pick this up today.


----------



## Killhouse

Most reviews place the H50 below the Mega, and just above the TRUE. Mega vs H50 is a tough one, its down the personal choice really.

If you had a stock cooler I would say whichever you like the look of, but I certainly wouldnt get an H50 if I had a mega already.


----------



## Lukeatluke

LOL, do i see correctly that here's noone with q6600 and h50?


----------



## Spendous

Hey I have a H50 being delivered friday. I want in the club! :0)


----------



## opty165

I'm in! Got my 940 to 3.7 stable at 1.58v. Load temps at 57c


----------



## sti-06

add me too, i m in


----------



## Deegan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Nice setup 3volvedcombat, I use the same case. You're in.

@ Deegan, I'm going to nick your pic of the case for the front page if thats ok ;-)

sure thing. i dont mind at all. also winter is here my pc goes near the window for nice tems


----------



## sti-06

I replace the fan that came with it, with antec 3 speed and set the fan on High setting.

Shud I put the corsair's fan on the other side of the radiator and run two fans?

My idle temps little high, around 35-40 degrees.


----------



## Killhouse

It will help a lot, push/pull setup should give you much better temps.


----------



## sti-06

What direction shud be the airflow on the second fan?


----------



## hxcnero

with airflow pointed in the same direction as the other fan.


----------



## Killhouse

Best results are probably to have them both blowing air out of the back of your case (both fans in the same direction)


----------



## Spendous

I'm so tempted to tear apart another computer just to boot it up now and test it out.[/QUOTE]

Hey BinaryDemon!

Thanks for posting the pic of your build. I have the exact same case, motherboard and cooler. Are you using a i7-920 under the H50?

Looks like the system is going to be tight!


----------



## sti-06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Best results are probably to have them both blowing air out of the back of your case (both fans in the same direction)

Yeah thats how it shud be but corsair recommends that direction of flow needs to be towards inside of the case so thats how i set up mine.


----------



## Killhouse

Yeah, it's debatable. Your CPU temp will be lower if you pull cold air from outside over the radiator, but it will heat up your whole system by blowing hot air all over it. Personally I prefer to have them as exhaust, that's also how my case was designed.


----------



## sti-06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Yeah, it's debatable. Your CPU temp will be lower if you pull cold air from outside over the radiator, but it will heat up your whole system by blowing hot air all over it. Personally I prefer to have them as exhaust, that's also how my case was designed.

I am not really worried about blowing hot air on my system since I have 6 extra fans other than the exhaust fan


----------



## Killhouse

Well try both and see which works out best









The difference for me was about 1-2C (a very inaccurate test though), but you can feel the hot air coming off the radiator when stress testing!


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Well try both and see which works out best









The difference for me was about 1-2C (a very inaccurate test though), but you can feel the hot air coming off the radiator when stress testing!

Are you using a single fan setup Killhouse? Or push/pull?


----------



## Killhouse

I'm using push/pull with the stock fan and an Antec Tricool from my case.


----------



## R00ST3R

Cool. Going to be setting mine up tommorow w/ push/pull. Have another question though. Any idea what the CFM rating is for the stock fan?


----------



## Killhouse

According to the Corsair FAQ its 50 CFM, they dont tell us any more than that though.









Link: http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=79974


----------



## R00ST3R

Excellent, ty! +rep


----------



## sti-06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
According to the Corsair FAQ its 50 CFM, they dont tell us any more than that though.









Link: http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=79974

great info.

I replaced it with a 79cfm one but I am getting 38 degrees as I am writing this. room temp is 76. It seems kinda high to me. I cant imagine the temp with stock fan









What u guys think?


----------



## Killhouse

Static pressure is more important than CFM over the radiator, which fan is it exactly?

Also whats 76F in degrees C?


----------



## sti-06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Static pressure is more important than CFM over the radiator, which fan is it exactly?

Also whats 76F in degrees C?









76f









I replaced it with Antec 3 speed


----------



## Killhouse

You should use push/pull with the stock cooler and the Antec. The stock fan on the H50 is probably better suited for the job - you shouldnt just look at CFM when considering how good a fan is, you need to look at how good it is at pushing air through obstacles (radiator, heatsink fins, etc).

76F = 24C apparently, your temps seem about right. I have 19C ambient and CPU temp is 31C idle. So maybe you're slightly hotter but you're not running Push/Pull, unless you set it up in the last 20 mins


----------



## sti-06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
You should use push/pull with the stock cooler and the Antec. The stock fan on the H50 is probably better suited for the job - you shouldnt just look at CFM when considering how good a fan is, you need to look at how good it is at pushing air through obstacles (radiator, heatsink fins, etc).

76F = 24C apparently, your temps seem about right. I have 19C ambient and CPU temp is 31C idle. So maybe you're slightly hotter but you're not running Push/Pull, unless you set it up in the last 20 mins









Oh ok.

No I am not running push/pull yet. So I would put the corsair stock fan and antec both on with antec being closer to the cpu. We ll see waht that does.

Thanks man.


----------



## Killhouse

I have mine in that order but both exhausting out the back. Good luck, post back with some results


----------



## sti-06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I have mine in that order but both exhausting out the back. Good luck, post back with some results









I will man.

Thanks a lot.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Well this sucks. My build was going great until I found out Thermaltake didnt package a 4pin cable to the motherboard in with the powersupply. It says its supposed to but didnt. So itll be 4days at least till I can get my computer up and running. Havent gotten the H50 yet, waiting to get some extra cash.
I cant wait to get it.
Is there a need to take off the original thermal compound on the bottom and put the artic silver instead? Anyone tried with better results?


----------



## mav2000

Have used mx2 and its a slight bit better than the stock compound.


----------



## Killhouse

Same here, the stock thing is meant to be quite good as far as stock TIM's go, but it's that annoying tape so I replaced it anyway.


----------



## iamgiGGlz

About to get one







Need some advice though; two quick questions:

1) I intend on only using one fan - should it push or pull?

2) I've seen some people setting it up as an intake fan. Surely this just pumps the case full of hot air? What am I missing?

Thanks


----------



## BinaryDemon

Corsair recommends setting it up as an intake fan, which makes sense since it will yield the coolest CPU temps, but you are right your case will fill with hot air. When I was considering this idea, I was also considering configuring the fans at the front of my case as exhaust.

Ultimately I decided to setup a Push/Pull Exhaust configuration, because my particular case is an Antec 300 with a bottom mounted PSU + a rear exhaust GPU and a wall a few inches behind the case. The hot air has nowhere to go and the Corsair H50 intake fan would probably be sucking in the hot air exhausted just below it.

Here are two reviews where the reviewers tested multiple fan setups with the H50-

http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1025/6/
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/coo...ooler-review/4


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iamgiGGlz* 
1) I intend on only using one fan - should it push or pull?

Nobody can answer this because it depends on your fan and the radiator so much, the best thing is to just try out both and see. I think Corsair suggest a push system. But it wont make much difference.

Also, if you're mounting this where there is already a case exhaust/intake can't you just stick the corsair fan on as well and create push/pull. I guess you have some reason, just curious









Quote:

2) I've seen some people setting it up as an intake fan. Surely this just pumps the case full of hot air? What am I missing?
Personal preference really. I tried both - with them set up as intake my CPU temps were 1-2C lower, but I didnt like blowing hot air into the case, even with the 200mm Antec fan right on top of the case. I set them up as exhaust and I'm much happier, CPU temps are slightly higher but when under load you can feel the heat off the back of the radiator, I'd hate that to be blowing all over my case.

Corsair suggest the first option, but I feel they're rather biased to getting the best CPU temps.

Quote:

Thanks
No problem


----------



## Sethy666

Ive been following this H50 beast with some interest... just a quick couple of questions.

What is the coolant used?
What is the coolant's "shelf life"?
Can the CPU pump be swapped out if it fails?

Thanks


----------



## Killhouse

The best information I can get for that is from the Corsair FAQ:
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=79974

Q: What's the liquid inside the unit?
A: The liquid inside the H50 is distilled water with Propylene Glycol added to prevent corrosion and organic build-up.

Q: Will I need to fill the unit with water? Do I have to perform any maintenance?
A: The H50 is designed to be a closed-loop solution with no maintenance required at all. The unit comes pre-filled and features tubes that virtually eliminate evaporation of water. The expected lifespan of the average unit is significantly longer than the 2 year warranty period.

As for the last question, the simple answer is no. You're probably covered under warranty if it fails though, I think you'd have to check that with your supplier. Corsair have a very good customer support.


----------



## Sethy666

Thanks Killhouse... this is looking better and better


----------



## Killhouse

No problem, its a pretty sexy unit, especially compared to a bulky air cooler - I say do it


----------



## hxcnero

tried finding what coolant was used. i honestly have no idea. could not find it. maybe some one with better google fu skills can answer that for you.

as for the pump. the H50 comes with a 2 year warranty so if in the event the pump does fail. corsair will send you a whole new unit. and its highly likely they will replace any hardware the unit damages as well. (I.E.) http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...0-warning.html

and killhouse is a ninja.







posted way faster than me. and proved to be a google fu master. lol


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hxcnero* 
and its highly likely they will replace any hardware the unit damages as well. (I.E.) http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...0-warning.html

yeah, they replaced his whole motherboard, and it was from an entirely different company


----------



## hxcnero

yeah. im definitely not too worried anymore about my H50 breaking. and i had some 19c idle temps earlier today/this morning. left my window open. as i type this its -10c where i am in colorful colorado. nothing special. i just thought it was neat.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
No problem, its a pretty sexy unit, especially compared to a bulky air cooler - I say do it









Hmmm... its only AUS$20 more than a mega. Very tempting. They havent landed here yet.. as usual









http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=12235


----------



## iamgiGGlz

Great input Killhouse (rep+). Thanks again.


----------



## Sethy666

Okay... Im at my wishlist and planning stage









Looking at push/pull (exhaust). Going to use stock fan for pull, what fan do you guys suggest for push?


----------



## Killhouse

A pleasure IamgiGGlz!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Okay... Im at my wishlist and planning stage









Looking at push/pull (exhaust). Going to use stock fan for pull, what fan do you guys suggest for push?


The cheapo version is to just use the case fan that presumably is already on the position where you're mounting the rad. If you want something loud you can look at the San Ace 1011, its 38mm but if it fits its amazing.

Other good fans for this job are the Noctua NF-P12, the Scythe S-flex or a gentle typhoon. They all have good static pressure which is far more important than CFM for the rad.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


A pleasure IamgiGGlz!

Other good fans for this job are the Noctua NF-P12, the Scythe S-flex or a gentle typhoon. They all have good static pressure which is far more important than CFM for the rad.


Since the Noctua NF-P12 tops out at 1300 rpm, what RPM would you recommend for the Scythes?

Your becoming quiet the legend with this thread


----------



## Killhouse

I noticed, nothing better to pass the time between soldering my fan controller up









I'm not great on fans, all I know was what I learnt last night when I bought some new case fans







I figure the higher RPM models are going to give you better cooling but it depends on sound for me. I dont have a fan contoller right now so I like my antec tri-cool on there (I cant hear it xD). If you have some sort of controller then maybe go for the higher speed models.

Personally I would go with the NF-P12, but that's only because I just got some flourescent spray paint I could use on it, otherwise it's darn ugly!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:

otherwise it's darn ugly!
Yep... a fan only it's mother could love









I have a Xiggy fan <see link> cooling my Hammer at the moment... might try that first.

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=11037

Addit: Just checked this site to see when the H50 is available... its not even in the country yet and its already sold out <lol>


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hxcnero* 
and killhouse is a ninja.







posted way faster than me. and proved to be a google fu master. lol











Unluckly on the stock Sethy, you might be able to find an international vendor but it wouldnt be cheap - it's a big heavy package. Good luck finding one!


----------



## BinaryDemon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Spendous* 
Hey BinaryDemon!

Thanks for posting the pic of your build. I have the exact same case, motherboard and cooler. Are you using a i7-920 under the H50?

Looks like the system is going to be tight!

Oh Hey, looks like I missed this post. Yeah I have a i7-920 hidding under there.
Looks like our systems are going to be pretty close to identical. Im still waiting on parts- probably until 12/8.


----------



## spacegoast

So I picked one of these up and I was planning to get a push/pull config going with Panaflo 120x38mm fans. The screws it came with made that impossible so I went to Home Depot and picked up some 6/32 x 1/2" screws. They fit like a glove and I got both fans on just fine in my mini P180 in the middle intake section. Then I went to install the cpu block...only to find out that there are caps just to the left the cpu socket, which blocks the cpu mount. So there was no way to get the it mounted properly. I was so mad that it wouldnt fit. Oh well, maybe I will be brave enough and just dive in to a full water cooling system one of these days.

Just letting you guys know that it is possible to use a push/pull set up with 120x38mm fans in a mini P180, if any P180 owners are considering getting this.


----------



## Inraged Twitch

I would like to join this club. I bought mine on BF at frys.


----------



## killerxx7

Hey ill join H50 rocks


----------



## Killhouse

Very nice photos


----------



## killerxx7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Very nice photos









Thanks man my photo skills are not great nor is my my camera XD

Do you mind if i nick your H50 series club logo thing for my sig?or should i make my own?


----------



## Sethy666

Okay... Im sold.

They have arrived in country and now available & Ive just ordered one. Hopefully, should have it by next week.









Quick question... whats the best way to remove the thermal tape from the pump? I would like to use some mx 3 or AS 5... best?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killerxx7*


Do you mind if i nick your H50 series club logo thing for my sig?or should i make my own?


Of course not, take it









Quote:



Okay... Im sold.

They have arrived in country and now available & Ive just ordered one. Hopefully, should have it by next week.

Quick question... whats the best way to remove the thermal tape from the pump? I would like to use some mx 3 or AS 5... best?


I scraped it off with a steel ruler, but dont tell anyone







I think the heatsink gurus will know... seems like a lint-free cloth is the best method.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


I scraped it off with a steel ruler, but dont tell anyone







I think the heatsink gurus will know... seems like a lint-free cloth is the best method.


Way to go dude!







<lol>

I think I just try a heap of peeling, alco-swabs and some spare time









Addit: For those interested, one of the many positive reviews for the H50 - this one from Madshimps;

http://www.madshrimps.be/?action=get...74&articID=939


----------



## marcus000

Just a quick note for all you H50 lovers, it's manufactured by Astetek...

...lol?


----------



## killerxx7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marcus000*


Just a quick note for all you H50 lovers, it's manufactured by Astetek...

...lol?










Yup i sure do







does not make it any worse does it now


----------



## Sethy666

Yep - common knowlege if you read the majority of the reviews... Its usually in the first paragraph.

Quote:

The H50 is based on Aseteks LCLC, the latter standing for Low Cost Liquid Cooling. Though Corsair has redesigned the pump and cold plate for better performance.
Source:
http://www.madshrimps.be/?action=get...74&articID=939

Your point?


----------



## Raul-7

Add me to the list, but to my dismay mine did not come with 1156 bracket. Anyone have one to spare?


----------



## 45nm

I just did a bit of reading up on the Corsair H50 and it seems a user applied AMD screws when he should have used the Intel screws. Is there a way to differentiate them ?


----------



## Killhouse

They both fit, but one set of 4 fit slightly better. AMD screws are a tiny tiny tiny bit smaller. You'll soon realise if you've got it wrong


----------



## Lefty67

How easy is it to install for AMD? Im looking into getting this for my 945


----------



## Killhouse

Very easy, check your box comes with the right bracket and you're set. A great cooler for that chip I might add









EDIT: just make sure you use the right screws.









Added you Raul7.


----------



## bleedingRoue

I've been looking at the H50 for a few months now but have always been a little hesitant. Seems like everyone here really likes this thing, so im curious if anyone knows how this compares to the Xigmatek s1283?


----------



## Killhouse

I can't do a direct comparison for you since I dont know that heatsink well. But if you were to put the H50 on a graph with common air coolers it would end up just below a Megahalem, just above a TRUE.

According to THIS you should see a noticable improvement over the s1283.


----------



## Campo

Hello everyone,

Looking to get a H50 and CM690 as part of an upgrade. Which fans would you guys recommend? Should I use it as intake or exhaust? And also, push/pull or just the 1 fan?

Would prefer it if the fans are from here

Thanks a lot,


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Auld*


http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/Produc...tCode=10010633

Quite a bit cheaper then anywhere else at the moment for those interested. A warning incase you didnt notice, this model only includes mounting for LGA775 and 1366.


Just an FYI from a thread I saw pop up today.

If you scroll back a couple of pages Campo, there was a quick discussion on fans. Definetely go push/pull if you can. Personally I would just use a case fan and the Corsair fan in push/pull unless you really want to spend money on performance.

Corsair say set it up as intake so that you get cold air over your radiator - your CPU will be colder but it will heat up the rest of your system a lot, which is bad. The general consensus around here is to set it up as exhaust.


----------



## asuindasun

Does anyone know how this cooler compares with a megahalem?


----------



## Killhouse

It tends to rank a little below a megahalem, but it gains in other categories - like actually being able to see your motherboard


----------



## ChielScape

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


It tends to rank a little below a megahalem, but it gains in other categories - like actually being able to see your motherboard










and performance


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



and performance


Most reviews will tell you it's slightly worse than a Mega for pure cooling, that doesent mean its not awesome though.


----------



## Campo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Just an FYI from a thread I saw pop up today.

If you scroll back a couple of pages Campo, there was a quick discussion on fans. Definetely go push/pull if you can. Personally I would just use a case fan and the Corsair fan in push/pull unless you really want to spend money on performance.

Corsair say set it up as intake so that you get cold air over your radiator - your CPU will be colder but it will heat up the rest of your system a lot, which is bad. The general consensus around here is to set it up as exhaust.

Thanks mate. I'm thinking of buying a Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000rpm and one of these to control speed. How should I set it up?


----------



## shaneface414

Sorry for the bad quality >_<


----------



## hitman1985

alright anyone made a comparison which is the best config for this thing ? im kinda bored and i wanna drop some money in my case silencing but upgrading the fans that i have atm, rheobus black will be my first item, not sure about fans, i want to be able to push this dang 965be to a good oc


----------



## Code-Red

Oh hello there! Love my H50


----------



## R00ST3R

Just installed my H50 into an Azza Solano 1000 last night and I'm extremely pleased. The cooler is set up on the back 120mm exhaust w/ a Scythe S-Flex 1600RPM in push only configuration. Replaced the stock TIM for AS5. Temps are almost identical (1-2C difference) to my Megahelem which had two Scythe S-Flex 1600's in push/pull. The BIG difference for me is how quiet this change has made my system. I'll update with some pictures as soon as my 8 pin MB power extender comes in (cause as of now it's running across the front of the MB and cooler and looks fugly







)


----------



## Ryanb213

Add me! pics are in my signature!


----------



## Newbie2009

Question.
@3.6ghz I am idle @ about 36c and load @ about 53c. Just ordered this today, should I see much of an improvement?
Also, I ordered 2 push pull nochua fans for it. With regards to the configuration, is it better to set it up as exhause or have the air coming in? The top can vent the hot air coming in. If your exhausting it instead would it be advisable to have the ceiling fan sucking cold air in?


----------



## GAMERIG

Yeah dudes, I would love to join this *CWCH50* owners Club!

So Far, I don't have any issues with H50 running in my gaming rig for a month and really happy with it.

Here is My *H50 RIG*:








CPU: AMD3 P-X2 3.1GHz and CPU cooling: CORSAIR WC-H50


----------



## catalyst

hey guys, i just recived my H50 yesterday







and i have a couple of questions so i thought this would be the best place to ask.
i`v got a P193, so i was thinking about mounting the rad in the 120mm fan space at the back of the case, and theres already a 120mm antec tricool there so should i configure the fans to intake or exhaust? (push/pull with the tricool and the corsair fan) which fan out of the corsair and the antec has the higher static pressure? would it matter which one is pushing/pulling?
keeping in mind that the P193 has 2 140mm exhaust fans in the roof of the case, so exhaust airflow is very good.
the directions say to set the fan as an intake, so that would mean warm air getting blown into the case!?








also, is the pre-applied TIM any good? or should i clean it off an slap on some AS5?

cheers,
cat.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *catalyst*


i`v got a P193, so i was thinking about mounting the rad in the 120mm fan space at the back of the case, and theres already a 120mm antec tricool there so should i configure the fans to intake or exhaust? (push/pull with the tricool and the corsair fan) which fan out of the corsair and the antec has the higher static pressure? would it matter which one is pushing/pulling?
keeping in mind that the P193 has 2 140mm exhaust fans in the roof of the case, so exhaust airflow is very good.
the directions say to set the fan as an intake, so that would mean warm air getting blown into the case!?








also, is the pre-applied TIM any good? or should i clean it off an slap on some AS5?


Exhaust will give you better system temperatures, but intake will give you better CPU temperatures. Even with my 200mm fan exhausting right on top of my case I prefer leaving the radiator as exhaust.

The Corsair has the highest static pressure but it will make little difference which way around it is. Personally I have the Corsair pushing, but I might swap it around because the tri-cools have pretty lights









The pre-applied TIM is alright, but get your hands on some AS5 or MX2









Nice pics GAMERIG.

Newbie, youll see a big improvement if youre using stock cooler


----------



## greydor

Just FYI for those of you wondering about fan configuration, I did a quick benchmark regarding the best fan setup and applicable temps on the Water Cooling page. Also, consider this my entrance into the club.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...enchmarks.html


----------



## Killhouse

Thank Skitz, great link and welcome


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *catalyst*


hey guys, i just recived my H50 yesterday







and i have a couple of questions so i thought this would be the best place to ask.
i`v got a P193, so i was thinking about mounting the rad in the 120mm fan space at the back of the case, and theres already a 120mm antec tricool there so should i configure the fans to intake or exhaust? (push/pull with the tricool and the corsair fan) which fan out of the corsair and the antec has the higher static pressure? would it matter which one is pushing/pulling?
keeping in mind that the P193 has 2 140mm exhaust fans in the roof of the case, so exhaust airflow is very good.
the directions say to set the fan as an intake, so that would mean warm air getting blown into the case!?








also, is the pre-applied TIM any good? or should i clean it off an slap on some AS5?

cheers,
cat.


 I actually ignored the instruction recommend intake.. I really prefer an exhaust airflow, which is great strategy.


----------



## cutty1998

After reading through this thread ,I feel confident that the corsair H-50 is a safe ,foolproof liquid cooler ,and I am definitely going to be adding it to my system !!!! Corsair seems to be a sure bet for PC components !!!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cutty1998*


After reading through this thread ,I feel confident that the corsair H-50 is a safe ,foolproof liquid cooler ,and I am definitely going to be adding it to my system !!!! Corsair seems to be a sure bet for PC components !!!


Good choice, take lots of pics


----------



## fireisdangerous84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I'm running push/pull with an antec tri-cool and the H50 stock cooler. They exhaust out the back of my case, I dont like the idea of hot air being blasted all over my mobo xD Seems to work even though its not in agreement with Corsairs instructions.

ge

Hi there i have the silverstone raven o2 and am looking at getting the h50, but the raven only has 1 exhaust fan at the top and wonderd if i could still install the h50 without ruining the cooling in my case. from reading this thread its sound like i could use a push/pull configuration but not sure what direction i need to set the fans.

thanks in advance for any help

tony


----------



## Killhouse

You should be fine using the exhaust fan but I'd try to use push/pull if you can.


----------



## opty165

wow, the members in this club are growing pretty fast! Hasn't this cooler been out for awhile?


----------



## Killhouse

It arrived in the UK in June I think?


----------



## fireisdangerous84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
You should be fine using the exhaust fan but I'd try to use push/pull if you can.

so i have my exhaust fan blowing out then i have the radiator then i have the other fan attached to the other side of the radiator , which way should that blow air


----------



## opty165

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fireisdangerous84* 
so i have my exhaust fan blowing out then i have the radiator then i have the other fan attached to the other side of the radiator , which way should that blow air

towards the other fan through the radiator


----------



## Killhouse

Yeah they should both blow air in the same direction, out of the case.

Also welcome to OCN


----------



## Newbie2009

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fireisdangerous84*


so i have my exhaust fan blowing out then i have the radiator then i have the other fan attached to the other side of the radiator , which way should that blow air


Both blow the same direction, so one is pushing the air towards the other fan and the other fan is pulling the air from the other fan.


----------



## fireisdangerous

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Newbie2009*


Both blow the same direction, so one is pushing the air towards the other fan and the other fan is pulling the air from the other fan.


thanks for all your replies and the welcome ,a couple of questions, so the idea is that the hot air is pulled from the first fan into the radiator then exhasted out top. wont this mea that hot air will be going into the radiator? sorry for the questions.

I was thinking about getting 2 silent eagle fans to go with to replace my existing 120mm fan and the stock fan that somes with the h50, are these good fans?

thanks again tony


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fireisdangerous*


thanks for all your replies and the welcome ,a couple of questions, so the idea is that the hot air is pulled from the first fan into the radiator then exhasted out top. wont this mea that hot air will be going into the radiator? sorry for the questions.

I was thinking about getting 2 silent eagle fans to go with to replace my existing 120mm fan and the stock fan that somes with the h50, are these good fans?

thanks again tony


Yes, thats the right setup. It's better to blow hot air from your case over the radiator rather than blow hot air from your radiator all over the rest of your system.

The stock fan that comes with the H50 is alright, probably not worth replacing unless you're going for a heavy overclock. I dont know those fans that you suggest.


----------



## meru

Just wanted to show Corsair's new video tutorial on installing the H50 with all the new screws/brackets.

  
 YouTube- How to install the Corsair Coolingâ„¢ Hydro Series H50 CPU cooler  



 
 Hope this helps anyone on installing, specially the 8 long screws that came with it.


----------



## Killhouse

Thank Meru, I'm gonna stick that on the front page.


----------



## fireisdangerous

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Yes, thats the right setup. It's better to blow hot air from your case over the radiator rather than blow hot air from your radiator all over the rest of your system.

The stock fan that comes with the H50 is alright, probably not worth replacing unless you're going for a heavy overclock. I dont know those fans that you suggest.


The fans are made by Sharkoon, and the full name i think is " "Golf Ball" Silent Eagle" i though they looked awsome and they the quietest 120mm fans u can get, what are other fans that i should be looking at

thanks again for your help.


----------



## mastical

Quote:


Originally Posted by *skitzogreg* 
Just FYI for those of you wondering about fan configuration, I did a quick benchmark regarding the best fan setup and applicable temps on the Water Cooling page. Also, consider this my entrance into the club.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...enchmarks.html

Thanks for the info, I will set mine up like yours when it comes. What fans did you use for the push/pull?


----------



## greydor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mastical* 
Thanks for the info, I will set mine up like yours when it comes. What fans did you use for the push/pull?

The Corsair fan that came with it to push and a spare Antec case fan to pull.


----------



## Sethy666

Woot!

My H50 just arrived in the mail... now I have all day to wait until I get home and install this beast <sigh>.

I plan to push/pull (exhaust) with the stock fan and my Xiggy fan I was using to cool my Thor's hammer heat sink.


----------



## ccomputertek

Hello everyone, just joined and will soon be jumping on this bandwagon.Sethy666, you need to use matching fans for your push / pull, I don't know why people still don't understand this.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ccomputertek* 
Hello everyone, just joined and will soon be jumping on this bandwagon.Sethy666, you need to use matching fans for your push / pull, I don't know why people still don't understand this.

I dont doubt you but I'd love to see a link/proof of this!









Also welcome to OCN


----------



## catalyst

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ccomputertek* 
Hello everyone, just joined and will soon be jumping on this bandwagon.Sethy666, you need to use matching fans for your push / pull, I don't know why people still don't understand this.

as long as the pulling fan has a higher cfm than the static pressure cfm of the pushing fan, then it wont matter what fans you use for push/pull.

welcome to the forum








fill out your system specs.......UserCP -> System Info
cat.


----------



## ccomputertek

I always thought it would be best to match the fans for push / pull, I have no proof or links, just thats what my common sense is telling me, to keep the fans evenly matched.It's your setup though, do it how you think is best and what you like of course.There are better things to debate.

P.S. why have i done countless google searches ETC. and no one has tried high powered 100+ CFM panaflo or something else with this unit other than stock ? and lets see what this thing can really do.I really think you need to double the CFM and static pressure of the stock fan and this thing will make you crap your pants from the low temps......... So anyone gonna try it ? I don't expect a 200CFM delta, but at least lets go over or near the 100CFM mark and see where this things cooling wall is, because we still cannot determine that if no one is gonna be the ginny pig and try it.


----------



## Spendous

Alrighty! I am finally getting some picture up of the Corsair H50.

I am running the system as exhaust with the Corsair fan closest to the back of my case. So the hot air from inside is being emptied out the back fan.

Here is a simple diagram.

Air / Back of Case / Corsair Fan / Radiator / Antec Stock Fan / Inside Case
<-------- | <----------- || <-------|| <-----------|| <-----------{}

Here are some pictures:





































And here is a screen shot of my system running Real Temp 3.40 for about 30 minutes:










I might try turning the fans to see if I can get a cooler idle. I am running a stock i7-920 without any overclocking. However, I will be trying to over clock some this week.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ccomputertek*


Hello everyone, just joined and will soon be jumping on this bandwagon.Sethy666, you need to use matching fans for your push / pull, I don't know why people still don't understand this.


Hey, thanks for the tip. Its all good, Ill use a pair of Xiggy fans and ditch the stock









@ Spendous - Smick LED Ram youve got happening there.


----------



## ccomputertek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Hey, thanks for the tip. Its all good, Ill use a pair of Xiggy fans and ditch the stock










It depends how big the difference is between the fans of course, I don't know the specs of your other fan, try with the 2 same fans and then with the other ? I just think the matching ones will yield better results.


----------



## Sethy666

Yeah, Ill give it a fly and see which setup is the best.

It may be a lil while as Im in the foldathon starting tonight (my time)

Thx again


----------



## elo820

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Spendous*


Alrighty! I am finally getting some picture up of the Corsair H50.

I am running the system as exhaust with the Corsair fan closest to the back of my case. So the hot air from inside is being emptied out the back fan.

Here is a simple diagram.

Air / Back of Case / Corsair Fan / Radiator / Antec Stock Fan / Inside Case
<-------- | <----------- || <-------|| <-----------|| <-----------{}

Here are some pictures:





































And here is a screen shot of my system running Real Temp 3.40 for about 30 minutes:










I might try turning the fans to see if I can get a cooler idle. I am running a stock i7-920 without any overclocking. However, I will be trying to over clock some this week.


Whoa those are high temps. Without any load? I am overclocked to 3.8 and i get 37-39 idle. hmm..


----------



## ccomputertek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *elo820*


Whoa those are high temps. Without any load? I am overclocked to 3.8 and i get 37-39 idle. hmm..



I agree, something is arai, lets get those temps down.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sexybastard* 
the radiator is basically sandwiched between two fans. *the h50 only comes with 4 screws to mount the fan but the easiest way to mount two is just to use two diagonally on each side.*

How is everyone else securing their fans and rad in push/pull configuration?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ccomputertek* 
I agree, something is arai, lets get those temps down.

Isn't the fan lead supposed to be hooked up to the CPU header? From the pic, it looks like the pump head is hooked up to the CPU header and the fan is attached to something else.


----------



## elo820

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
How is everyone else securing their fans and rad in push/pull configuration?

2 each on both sides diagonally.


----------



## ccomputertek

Can hook the radiator fan directly to power supply, if connected to motherboard fan speed control should be turned off, so the fan allways runs at full power, at least for the pump this has to be done, if you want your radiator fan speed to go up and down I guess you could, but the pump needs 100% at all times.BIOS controls the fan speed and needs to be disabled.


----------



## Sethy666

Hmmm... what you say makes sense but is contra-indicated in the assembly manual. But then again... so is the push/pull exhaust option


----------



## ccomputertek

If you want that pump to last, suggest running the fan @ full tilt









Also, we really need to start ordering some panaflo's or sunon fans that at least hit 80cfm and 6+ mm-H2o static pressure and see what this unit is really capable of.

I heard alot about Sythe ultra kaze 3000 and thought it might be a good candidate to try, till I saw it has a sleeve instead of bearing, which is a big no-no.I am definatly going to try both 100+ CFM sunon and panaflo on mine as soon as I get it, will have new fans waiting for it as a matter of fact before I even take it out of the box.First thing I do with something like this is toss the stock fan and try to find where that barrier wall is where adding a more powerful fan will no longer help temps, and I can tell that with the stock fan you are not near that wall yet and this thing can do much better.

Got to remember this thing is also sold in best buy, mom and pop buy this for their pc's, they want it quiet, ok, but us in here, most will want to over clock a bit and you can't expect an overclocked pc to be totally quiet unless your going full blown water cooling, so I will deal with a little fan noise If i can get double the performance than the stock fan can offer, I don't even have this unit in my posession yet, and I know it can do much better and will surprise people with the right fan.Cannot believe all I have read on the web about this thing and no one has talked about doubling the fan power from the stock fan yet, I want to see these results more than I want to see the results of the out of box unit with stock fan.Maybe I will have to be the first one to MOD this thing and see what full potential it has.

I wonder how 2 fans piggy back will work, like 2 on each side of the RAD going in the same direction, I don't think it will double the static pressure in total, but it will definatly raise the # a bit, I am going to try this also, 4 fans on my H50, If the space in the case allows.

Panaflo and sunon fans are VERY high rated for radiator use, so anyone looking to replace the stocker, should try those first.

Also like people say, results will slightly vary with the case you use, I have an antec 300 and although it is not the biggest case, it certainly has plenty of air flow with 2 120mm holes in the front for intake and the exhaust fans it has.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:

Got to remember this thing is also sold in best buy, mom and pop by this for their pc's, they want it quiet, ok, but us in here, most will want to over clock a bit and you can't expect an overclocked pc to be totally quiet unless your going full blown water cooling
Point taken


----------



## ccomputertek

I don't like to go as far as messing with voltage and usually only change the CPU multiplier, todays quad cores are so fast no need to really.But I will try to get my Phenom II X4 quad as far as stock voltage allows, probably going to be 3.6 GHZ and that will suit me just fine, a nice mild overclock.


----------



## yawa

Saw the retail version earlier today, after much debate with my new rig as to what cooler I wanted to settle on (I'm using a Zalman 9500A from my old build, currently), I'm going to go with this.

I have two questions I have to ask you guys who have it. Does the retail version come with the AM3 mounting brackets? And does this as far as anyone knows, have any issues installing on an MSI 790FX-GD70?

I've heard the back plate can be trouble for a lot of coolers.


----------



## ccomputertek

The ones being sold at the moment from newegg and bestbuy have the AM2 / AM3 brackets included.When the H50 first came out there was an issue of the brackets not being included in the kit and having to go through corsair to get them for $5 dollars shipping charge only, and those 2 stores with the kits their selling as of right now have the new revision of the kit with all included.And I doubt you will have any issues at all installing this on ANY motherboard, which is one of many of it's good points.All this kit really requires is that you have at least a 120MM fan outlet in the back or top of the case and your good to go.


----------



## Inraged Twitch

I got a ? when I install this should I leave the Corsair paste on or used another brand? Is there a huge difference?


----------



## fireisdangerous84

Im ordering my h50 today with 2 120mm Sharkoon "Golf Ball" Silent Eagle SE fans, ive herd good things about these fans, has anyone used them before?


----------



## Sethy666

Add me in!

Okay- got this beast installed when I got home.

I removed the pre-applied TIM and replaced it with MX 3. It took a couple of goes to get it right. I took Killhouse's suggestion of 5 x dots on the CPU and it works well. I dont think I got the pump head to sit right the first time... a tad fiddly.

Pics enclosed.

More pis next post.


----------



## Sethy666

More pics.

Ambient temp for the 2nd last pic was @ 28c.

Ambient temp for the last pic was @ 24c

Its comparable to my Thor's Hammer. Tops out at load @ 44c.

I'm impressed.. really!


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *yawa* 
Saw the retail version earlier today, after much debate with my new rig as to what cooler I wanted to settle on (I'm using a Zalman 9500A from my old build, currently), *[1]* I'm going to go with this.

I have two questions I have to ask you guys who have it. *[2]* Does the retail version come with the AM3 mounting brackets? *[3]* And does this as far as anyone knows, have any issues installing on an MSI 790FX-GD70?

I've heard the back plate can be trouble for a lot of coolers.

1) Go for it, you wont be regerts.

2) like ccomputertek's post #297 that is accurate. Frys selling H50, too.

3) I have own the MSI AM3 Main Board, and haven't any issues install on it.. its easy to intall. I think you shouldn't have any issues intall H50 on your MSI Motherboard..










Good luck!


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Spendous* 
Alrighty! I am finally getting some picture up of the Corsair H50.

I am running the system as exhaust with the Corsair fan closest to the back of my case. So the hot air from inside is being emptied out the back fan.

Here is a simple diagram.

Air / Back of Case / Corsair Fan / Radiator / Antec Stock Fan / Inside Case
<-------- | <----------- || <-------|| <-----------|| <-----------{}

Here are some pictures:










And here is a screen shot of my system running Real Temp 3.40 for about 30 minutes:










I might try turning the fans to see if I can get a cooler idle. I am running a stock i7-920 without any overclocking. However, I will be trying to over clock some this week.

How come those got the SO-SO high temps? it suppose the lowest temps.

anyway your pic is NEAT,







..

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
More pics.

Ambient temp for the 2nd last pic was @ 28c.

Ambient temp for the last pic was @ 24c

Its comparable to my Thor's Hammer. Tops out at load @ 44c.

I'm impressed.. really!

Yeah awesome before and after of pics, CWCH50 attach on your hardware looks NEAT!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


Yeah awesome before and after of pics, CWCH50 attach on your hardware looks NEAT!










Thanks.

Original temps = high 40c.







Then re-seated the pump heat.









All good now!


----------



## Killhouse

Great feedback guys







love all the photos. *Incoming wall of text*

Quote:


Originally Posted by *catalyst* 
as long as the pulling fan has a higher cfm than the static pressure cfm of the pushing fan, then it wont matter what fans you use for push/pull.

+1, thanks!

Can't wait to see your fan config results ccomputertek









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
How is everyone else securing their fans and rad in push/pull configuration?

I used the other 4 screws that came in the pack, they're not meant to - but they fit the rad pretty well. I used a couple of pieces of folded up cardboard in between the fan and rad so that the screws were tight - also makes a 5mm shroud I guess









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ccomputertek* 
Can hook the radiator fan directly to power supply, if connected to motherboard fan speed control should be turned off, so the fan allways runs at full power, at least for the pump this has to be done, if you want your radiator fan speed to go up and down I guess you could, but the pump needs 100% at all times.BIOS controls the fan speed and needs to be disabled.

For nice cable management I plugged the Pump into the PSU_FAN header, this is turned on full by default, at least for my BIOS. Then I put the fan in the CPU_FAN header so that my motherboard will tune it automatically. It's nicer that way for me, I can't hear my fan at all most of the time. Rarely needs to fire up to its full speed even with the Antec tri-cool on the other side of the rad on a low speed too.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *yawa* 
Saw the retail version earlier today, after much debate with my new rig as to what cooler I wanted to settle on (I'm using a Zalman 9500A from my old build, currently), I'm going to go with this.

I have two questions I have to ask you guys who have it. Does the retail version come with the AM3 mounting brackets? And does this as far as anyone knows, have any issues installing on an MSI 790FX-GD70?

I've heard the back plate can be trouble for a lot of coolers.

Good choice







You'll have no problem fitting it to that motherboard (a nice motherboard too should add







) just make sure you have a 120mm fan somewhere near the top/back of your case that you can attach this too. Most retail packs ship with the AM3 bracket in them now, but you should check with the vendor if they dont state it. It wasn't until recently that the UK started delivering them with all the brackets. And Welcome to OCN









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Inraged Twitch* 
I got a ? when I install this should I leave the Corsair paste on or used another brand? Is there a huge difference?

The stock paste isnt that great, if you want to get the most out of any cooler I'd recommend some MX3.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Add me in!

Okay- got this beast installed when I got home.

I removed the pre-applied TIM and replaced it with MX 3. It took a couple of goes to get it right. I took Killhouse's suggestion of 5 x dots on the CPU and it works well. I dont think I got the pump head to sit right the first time... a tad fiddly.

Pics enclosed.

More pis next post.
---
More pics.

Ambient temp for the 2nd last pic was @ 28c.

Ambient temp for the last pic was @ 24c

Its comparable to my Thor's Hammer. Tops out at load @ 44c.

I'm impressed.. really!

Nice pics and all, glad you enjoy it, +rep!


----------



## jam1e

First of *Hey*







to everyone in the h50 club, going to be joining soon but i have a few questions first...

Does the rad have to be mounted on the back of the case? i have a cosmos-s and i'd like to mount it on the underside of the top of my case, is this possible?









(plenty of room)

I'm going to use push/pull (2xNoctua NF-P12) and i'll probably do what corsair recommend and blow the air throught the rad and inside the case.. my question is, would it be best to completely reverse the airflow of my case?

current config: [email protected](in), [email protected](out), [email protected](out), [email protected](in - i think, stock for cosmos-s)

also is it really worth replacing the stock paste? (if so, mx3 of as5?)


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jam1e*


First of *Hey*







to everyone in the h50 club, going to be joining soon but i have a few questions first...

Does the rad have to be mounted on the back of the case? i have a cosmos-s and i'd like to mount it on the underside of the top of my case, is this possible?

*Picture*
(plenty of room)

I'm going to use push/pull (2xNoctua NF-P12) and i'll probably do what corsair recommend and blow the air throught the rad and inside the case.. my question is, would it be best to completely reverse the airflow of my case?

current config: [email protected](in), [email protected](out), [email protected](out), [email protected](in - i think, stock for cosmos-s)

also is it really worth replacing the stock paste? (if so, mx3 of as5?)



It should be possible, the tubes are 28cm long though I wouldn't expect them to reach more than 20cm from the top of the pump because they're not very flexible (reinforced with steel or something).

It's pretty hard to say if switching the airflow around is a good idea or not. I would seriously reconsider setting the H50 up as exhaust as it would suit your case airflow much better and that way the rest of your system wont be suffering by having 50 degree air blown over it







If you're set on the idea though I would try to mount the H50 in the front top fan hole (ie furthest from the CPU and turn the front intake fan into an exhaust.

MX3 will give you a couple of degrees drop and its cheap, so I'd say its worth it. But that's really up to you


----------



## Spendous

Quote:


Originally Posted by *elo820* 
Whoa those are high temps. Without any load? I am overclocked to 3.8 and i get 37-39 idle. hmm..

My idle temps at stock CPU settings without load were pretty high when doing a push/pull - exhaust system on my case. Here is the screen shot:










So today I switched the direction - intake instead of exhaust and the result was:










Obviously doing intake improved my results (which yes the directions recommended from the start)

I have the pump plugged into Chassis Fan_2 (constant) on the motherboard and the Corsair fan plugged into the CPU fan (4 pin) slot on the motherboard.

I remember reading a review where they tested the pump at 7v vs. 12v and the pump gave better results at 12v. I didn't really think about it at the time, but now I am wondering how to change the voltage the pump receives. Do i need to just plug it into a fan header that would give it more juice?

I am hoping to overclock this week up to at least 3.8ghz. Any pointers on how to get my H50 a little cooler?

Thanks!


----------



## the_milk_man

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Spendous* 
My idle temps at stock CPU settings without load were pretty high when doing a push/pull - exhaust system on my case. Here is the screen shot:

So today I switched the direction - intake instead of exhaust and the result was:

Obviously doing intake improved my results (which yes the directions recommended from the start)

I have the pump plugged into Chassis Fan_2 (constant) on the motherboard and the Corsair fan plugged into the CPU fan (4 pin) slot on the motherboard.

I remember reading a review where they tested the pump at 7v vs. 12v and the pump gave better results at 12v. I didn't really think about it at the time, but now I am wondering how to change the voltage the pump receives. Do i need to just plug it into a fan header that would give it more juice?

I am hoping to overclock this week up to at least 3.8ghz. Any pointers on how to get my H50 a little cooler?

Thanks!

Nice. have you changed any other fans to exhaust? you might get some positive pressure inside your case with all of the intake fans and that can affect temps after the computer has been running for a little while.


----------



## ccomputertek

Doing some more research, I found some info of people from [H]ard forums who have used the sythe ultra kaze 3000 and a delta fan on this thing, If they did it right, they would have gotten better results.The guy who used a sythe ultra kaze 3000 had the slower stock H50 fan in front pulling as a push / pull with the sythe, which is the equivelant of applying the brakes to the sythe fan... the guy using the delta had it throttled down obviously, but showed good numbers.


----------



## Killhouse

Sounds interesting, I was thinking of upgrading my Rad fans in my new case (see sig) but decided to save money.. for now. Im interested to see where this goes.

Also we're on page 3 of google now


----------



## ccomputertek

My only worrying thought about this H50, is can the top bracket screws be tightened down so much that it totally compresses the springs ? and how do you know when to stop tightening them so you don't put too much force on your processor ?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ccomputertek*


My only worrying thought about this H50, is can the top bracket screws be tightened down so much that it totally compresses the springs ? and how do you know when to stop tightening them so you don't put too much force on your processor ?


It would be hard to do that with this setup. I don't think you're in any danger of breaking anything though - people purposely pressure mod other coolers to push them on tighter. The screws will bottom out if you go to far; you'll see when to stop.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ccomputertek*


My only worrying thought about this H50, is can the top bracket screws be tightened down so much that it totally compresses the springs ? and how do you know when to stop tightening them so you don't put too much force on your processor ?


With all screw down coolers Ive have experience with, you screw down until you cant turn anymore. The cooler has a brace for the back of the mobo and the only risk Id image in to strip the tread on the screw.

Tightening the screws in opposite locations eg Screw 1, screw 3, screw 2, screw 4 generally gives balance on the CPU mount without undue pressure.

I dont think there is anything to worry about here.


----------



## STDSkillz

After several months of showing extreme interest, I just ordered one of these bad boys. I'm quite excited. Will provide updates with pics when it gets here!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *STDSkillz*


After several months of showing extreme interest, I just ordered one of these bad boys. I'm quite excited. Will provide updates with pics when it gets here!


----------



## ccomputertek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *STDSkillz*


After several months of showing extreme interest, I just ordered one of these bad boys. I'm quite excited. Will provide updates with pics when it gets here!


I was gonna get a Zalman 9500, did not want a almost 2 pound weight hangin off inches from my processor ( the Zalman 9700, 9900 or CNPS extreme ), so no doubt my only choice now is the H50.Log your temps from your current Zalman setup and let us know how bad the Corsair H50 gives it a spanking


----------



## STDSkillz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ccomputertek*


I was gonna get a Zalman 9500, did not want a almost 2 pound weight hangin off inches from my processor ( the Zalman 9700, 9900 or CNPS extreme ), so no doubt my only choice now is the H50.Log your temps from your current Zalman setup and let us know how bad the Corsair H50 gives it a spanking










Lol, yeah, my current temps aren't great. Under partial load (62% or so):










The H50 should preform a bit better


----------



## Killhouse

Nice, it'll be good to see a direct comparison - forgot to take readings on my stock AMD cooler, but I dropped around 10C load and 7/8C idle. And just as importantly its quieter. Just want to get a NB heatsink and a new graphics card cooler and my system will be much quieter, especially in my new case.


----------



## hitman1985

weeee i just ordered my new push pull fans, yate loon highspeeds







lets hope they ll do their job good enough for a medicore oc on my phenom


----------



## ccomputertek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hitman1985*


weeee i just ordered my new push pull fans, yate loon highspeeds







lets hope they ll do their job good enough for a medicore oc on my phenom


Whats the model # of the ones you order ? I hope you got the 120x120x38MM model, right away if you get the 25MM your giving up needed static pressure.If you got the ones I think you got, you would have been better off with panaflo 120..... yate loon 120 high speed 101 CFM with 47DB noise and the panaflo is 114 CFM with 45 DB noise and I don't see yate loon giving out static pressure #'s for their fans.You need to do alot of research and go to the fan manufacturer sites and read their tech documents to find the perfect fan for the H50.


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ccomputertek* 
Whats the model # of the ones you order ? I hope you got the 120x120x38MM model, right away if you get the 25MM your giving up needed static pressure.If you got the ones I think you got, you would have been better off with panaflo 120..... yate loon 120 high speed 101 CFM with 47DB noise and the panaflo is 114 CFM with 45 DB noise and I don't see yate loon giving out static pressure #'s for their fans.You need to do alot of research and go to the fan manufacturer sites and read their tech documents to find the perfect fan for the H50.


no i did not go for either one of the fat fans, i have no room for that kinda stuff, neither do i see a point of paying 15 bucks for a single fan, loons have worked great for me on my wc loops in the past







and if i need to, ill use a shroud, but like said, i went the cheap route, as i most likely wont be using the pc for a long period of time in this config, after my move to alaska im going back to watercooling most likely. just for now i needed something to bridge xD


----------



## ccomputertek

Fair enough, let us know how she blows when you get them installed...... lol


----------



## r31ncarnat3d

I just got and installed mine today! I have it in push/pull exhausting out of the rear of my case (Stock CM Scout fan pull, Stock Corsair fan push). Pics in the morning!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


How is everyone else securing their fans and rad in push/pull configuration?


Small zipties for my push fan and lots of patience.


----------



## Jon A. Silvers

I wanted to put 240 or 280 mm radiator on corsair h50 instead of his ,and to mount it on the top of the case.Will it work? 
Thanks


----------



## r31ncarnat3d

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jon A. Silvers*


I wanted to put 240 or 280 mm radiator on corsair h50 instead of his ,and to mount it on the top of the case.Will it work? 
Thanks


It won't. Like the product description says, this is a closed loop system. Dismantling it will ruin the loop entirely.

If you really want a 240mm, you're going to have to go with a custom loop. If not, the best you can ask for is a push/pull on the 120mm radiator of the H50.


----------



## fraudbrand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jon A. Silvers*


I wanted to put 240 or 280 mm radiator on corsair h50 instead of his ,and to mount it on the top of the case.Will it work? 
Thanks


Asetek makes them for OEM's so its up to Corsair to make the improvements.


----------



## ccomputertek

I found another fan that would be a good candidate for this H50, too bad no one makes a fan speed control panel powerful enough to support this.And the body is made of aluminum also like the radiator, so that might increase the surface area more and help sap even more heat from the radiator.And also metal on metal screwing to the PC case and some heat will transfer that way too, looking for subzero temps with this thing.


YouTube- San Ace Goodness


----------



## Waterox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ccomputertek* 
I found another fan that would be a good candidate for this H50, too bad no one makes a fan speed control panel powerful enough to support this.And the body is made of aluminum also like the radiator, so that might increase the surface area more and help sap even more heat from the radiator.And also metal on metal screwing to the PC case and some heat will transfer that way too, looking for subzero temps with this thing.

YouTube- San Ace Goodness

Jebus!







. I watched his second video, that's the equivalent of a TNT.


----------



## SickStew

I currently have the North-Q Version of this cooler it is fantastic


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


How is everyone else securing their fans and rad in push/pull configuration?


with screws from the home depot







(i believe its 3/16 x 1.25 inch) i buy them in a 100 pack usually for like 3 bucks or so


----------



## Waterox

Man I'm still looking for a good deal on H50 with AM3 bracket included, CWCH50-1.

Zipzoom has a great deal but paying for the bracket from another site is pretty much bye-bye rebate.

Right now Amazon selling one for $78 no tax, free shipping. Should I wait for Christmas?


----------



## STDSkillz

I got mine from Amazon! One of my relatives also signed up to a thing that allows me to get free two-day shipping. Schwing!


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:



Originally Posted by *STDSkillz*


I got mine from Amazon! One of my relatives also signed up to a thing that allows me to get free two-day shipping. Schwing!


amazon prime









@ waterox, should have grabbed it while they had it on sale @ bestbuy







for 60 + tax, other then that, ebay would be your best bet, 78.99 -8% bing CB, or here http://www.mwave.com/mwave/SKUSearch...iteria=BA50079


----------



## Waterox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hitman1985*


amazon prime









@ waterox, should have grabbed it while they had it on sale @ bestbuy







for 60 + tax, other then that, ebay would be your best bet, 78.99 -8% bing CB, or here http://www.mwave.com/mwave/SKUSearch...iteria=BA50079


I don't see bing for ebay....


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Waterox*


I don't see bing for ebay....










go to the bing.com page, hit in panasonic or what not, click on the right hand side on the ebay ad, there u go, assuming you have a bing account that brings up the little bing thingy on ebay







, then type in corsair h50 sort it as you please, and make sure to grab one that says amd compatible as i assume they ship them with amd brace (in case of questions shoot the seller a mail







)


----------



## Waterox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 
go to the bing.com page, hit in panasonic or what not, click on the right hand side on the ebay ad, there u go, assuming you have a bing account that brings up the little bing thingy on ebay







, then type in corsair h50 sort it as you please, and make sure to grab one that says amd compatible as i assume they ship them with amd brace (in case of questions shoot the seller a mail







)

I found this one for 76 bucks http://cgi.ebay.com/CORSAIR-CWCH50-1...item518e6001e4

but charge like 8 dollars tax then $6 bing back. That's a dollar close to what Amazon is offering. Might as well go with Amazon







.

But I'm gonna wait for a bit until it can be on sale though. Man I'm cheap!


----------



## candy_van

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hitman1985*


with screws from the home depot







(i believe its 3/16 x 1.25 inch) i buy them in a 100 pack usually for like 3 bucks or so


Could you (or anyone lol) verify that please









I've got a H50-1 on order, and will be installing w/ next build over the weekend


----------



## SickStew

nq3580

Thanks for the add i didn't know if I could enter because I had the North Q version of this cooler which is alot cheaper and yields same performance IMHO

CPU temps at idle are 6 - 7C above ambient temp of 22C


----------



## fireisdangerous84

Just installed my h50, but have one issue, the pump power has a 3pin conector but my cpu fan header is a 4 pin, can i plug the 3pin into a 4 pin, pump power is currently plugged into a 3pin header on the motherboad is this ok. when i boot im getting a cpu fan error, is this because i have nothing plugged into the cpu fan pin header. cpu is running at 20c;s so pump is working


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:



Originally Posted by *candy_van*


Could you (or anyone lol) verify that please









I've got a H50-1 on order, and will be installing w/ next build over the weekend










its 6/32nds x 1.25 inch screws to confirm


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fireisdangerous84* 
Just installed my h50, but have one issue, the pump power has a 3pin conector but my cpu fan header is a 4 pin, can i plug the 3pin into a 4 pin, pump power is currently plugged into a 3pin header on the motherboad is this ok. when i boot im getting a cpu fan error, is this because i have nothing plugged into the cpu fan pin header. cpu is running at 20c;s so pump is working

The corasir rad fan has the CPU head pin, so that should go on your CPU fan header. If you are using a push/pull, the other fan pin can go anywhere.


----------



## candy_van

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 
its 6/32nds x 1.25 inch screws to confirm









Thank you kindly good sir


----------



## Sethy666

I have to say Im impressed with this cooler









I installed this beast on Monday afternoon and have run my rig non stop since.

Monday night, Tues and today I have been 24/7 folding both on GPU and CPU and the CPU core temps have not past 47c.

Yesterday was a very hot and muggy day here (ambient 35c) and I was concerned, since my mobo temps where sitting around 40c that the H50 may get overwhelmed.

That, to my pleasurable surprise - didn't happen.

Again, this is comparable. if not better to the Xiggy Thor's Hammer that was previously installed.

Note: I am not Ocing the E8400 but the GPU is. When folding the GPU pumps a heap of heat into the case. Its also noteworthy that I have 5 intake fans and 4 exhaust fans (not including the PSU)

In short... I'm a happy camper and would commend this cooler as a worthy replacement.


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *candy_van* 
Thank you kindly good sir









not a problem, you got pm...


----------



## fireisdangerous84

Here are some pics of my new build


----------



## Killhouse

Very nice, thats the sharkoon fan right? How is it performing for you?


----------



## fireisdangerous84

Very pleased so far when i had my core i5 at stock 2.6 it was idle-ling at 23c i have overclocked it to 3.6 and the temps have gone upto 42. also gained 10fps in the dirt 2 benchmak


----------



## Killhouse

Thats good to know and glad its going well for you.

Ill take your rep virginity for the good photos


----------



## Gunderman456

Here is my new Corsair H-50 in a push/pull configuration that includes two 3 speed Red Led Antec Fans installed in my new Build!


----------



## Killhouse

Great photo Gunderman456, I really like the look of your whole arrangement there. Im starting to think about a RAM cooler too since there is so much space in my case without a massive heatsink. An overlooked advantage of the H50 I think.


----------



## mr. biggums

only if it had come out before i bought my true, i would actually be capable of getting too my memory without having too pull out the motherboard out of my case.


----------



## Killhouse

Think I will custombuild a memory cooler actually. Got a couple of ideas.


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Great photo Gunderman456, I really like the look of your whole arrangement there. Im starting to think about a RAM cooler too since there is so much space in my case without a massive heatsink. An overlooked advantage of the H50 I think.


Thanks, I figured I'd do it right the first time and invest in a second fan to achieve a push/pull. When I took the picture, the framing was just right and the RAM cooler made the shot awesome!


----------



## mypcisugly

add me .. i will not ever go back to a air cooler again.. i love the temp and i'm caseless so i can't here it lol .. I should of got this a long time ago


----------



## Killhouse

Added









I could never run caseless like that, I'd be so worried about spilling something on it. Or knocking something off. Also cases are sexy









EDIT: good picture of the H50 setup nonetheless.


----------



## mothow

Why arent any of you guys with i7's showing temp's?Any body here go from a TRUE or Megahalem to the H50?Im thinking about getting this but i dont think it can handle my D0 at 4.2ghz.With my Push/Pull TRUE im idling at 36c to 42c across my cores and maxing at around 80c when i push it to 100%


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mothow*


Why arent any of you guys with i7's showing temp's?*Any body here go from a TRUE or Megahalem to the H50?*Im thinking about it but i dont think it can handle my D0 at 4.2ghz.With my Push/Pull TRUE im idling at 36c to 42c across my cores and maxing at around 80c when i push it to 100%


Not yet in this thread but we had one guy go from a Thor's hammer if thats any help to you? He saw a pretty big improvement. Most reviews will tell you that this is going to pull ahead of a TRUE by 1-2C given the same fan setup; coming in around 0-1C worse than a Mega.


----------



## BinaryDemon

My new computer is up and running. I'm loving the H50. My load temps at 3.6ghz are right around 67C.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BinaryDemon* 
My new computer is up and running. I'm loving the H50. My load temps at 3.6ghz are right around 67C.

Great, you were waiting for the PSU and stuff to arrive werent you? Or was that someone else? Hope you didnt tear up the other rig to get it up and going









And there's an i7 result for you Mothow.


----------



## mothow

Think you could try 4.0ghz or higher that would really help my discission


----------



## mypcisugly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Added









I could never run caseless like that, I'd be so worried about spilling something on it. Or knocking something off. Also cases are sexy










EDIT: good picture of the H50 setup nonetheless.


 im looking for a case i made my mind up to make the pc first then get a case
lol ..It's funny i started with a Compaq lol and then the bug bit me and it started 
with a new card a new psu and ran out of room so took all out and bought a motherboard and well see what happens when you can't stop lol..the funny thing is it stay's cleaner


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mypcisugly*


im looking for a case i made my mind up to make the pc first then get a case
lol ..It's funny i started with a Compaq lol and then the bug bit me and it started 
with a new card a new psu and ran out of room so took all out and bought a motherboard and well see what happens when you can't stop lol..the funny thing is it stay's cleaner


Yeah I bet it stays quite dustfree. You should build your own case then you'd het just what you want ;-) Little self-promotion, theres a link to my thread in my sig. Most of the parts have arrived now.


----------



## BinaryDemon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Great, you were waiting for the PSU and stuff to arrive werent you? Or was that someone else? Hope you didnt tear up the other rig to get it up and going










Yep that was me. No, I didnt tear up my old rig out of frustration. Glad I waited, doing the wiring twice would have been painful.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BinaryDemon*


Yep that was me. No, I didnt tear up my old rig out of frustration. Glad I waited, doing the wiring twice would have been painful.


Sweet, you should get some updated pics at some point! The prospect is jizz-worthy


----------



## yawa

Excellent stuff. Picking this up on Thursday. Gonna be the annoying customer in Best Buy who asks to open the damn thing at the counter so I can see if it comes with the AM3 bracket (Unless of course any of you know a better way).

In surprisingly pleasant news, I actually may have lucked out when I chose my case if I can manage to finangle the back fan on my Element S as my second fan.

Btw have we decided what is more efficient, push/push into the case or push/pull out of the case? The consensus seems to be push into the case, but something about that goes against my logical instinct.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mypcisugly*


add me .. i will not ever go back to a air cooler again.. i love the temp and i'm caseless so i can't here it lol .. I should of got this a long time ago


Clearly, a man with no kids or pets







(apologies if you do)

Nice setup, notheless


----------



## Waterox

I couldn't wait any more







and ordered my H50 from NCIXUS.com for $69 (AM3 bracket included). Also bought this fan for push and pull spec:

http://www.ncixus.com/products/index...7&promoid=1030

I was fixed on getting some blings to my case. From much reading, I found this is the best bling, performance and quiet fan out there right now. (note bling first because it's very important to me to show off my budget PC







; WC owners spare me. I REALLY like to have a custom WC like you guys but I gotta pay the bills







).

Also grabbed this:http://www.ncixus.com/products/40127...%20Technology/

best price for that product by far with $5 rebate.

Only negative thing about this site is the $18 shipping but no tax.


----------



## fireisdangerous84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Thats good to know and glad its going well for you.

Ill take your rep virginity for the good photos











Thank you very much, i will take some better ones when i get home tonight. The sharkoon fans are good, nice and quiet. I have a queery though, should both fans run at the same speed? i have the top one running at 7v in ultra quiet mode the the one below running at 9v, and im thinking that if anything the fan at the bottom should spin quicker and push more air out the top?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *catalyst* 
as long as the pulling fan has a higher cfm than the static pressure cfm of the pushing fan, then it wont matter what fans you use for push/pull.

We had this a few pages back, hope it helps









Quote:

Btw have we decided what is more efficient, push/push into the case or push/pull out of the case? The consensus seems to be push into the case, but something about that goes against my logical instinct.
Push/Pull intake will yield better CPU temperatures but it will heat up the inside if your case like mad, exhuast will keep your case temperatures down but your CPU temps will be slightly higher. Personally I suggest going with exhaust, your logical instinct is a pretty good one to go with









Congrats Waterox, nice purchase - can't wait to see some pics xD


----------



## Waterox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Congrats Waterox, nice purchase - can't wait to see some pics xD


Will do.

Come on







shipping.


----------



## mypcisugly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Yeah I bet it stays quite dustfree. You should build your own case then you'd het just what you want ;-) Little self-promotion, theres a link to my thread in my sig. Most of the parts have arrived now.


very nice killhouse give's me something to think about


----------



## GAMERIG

I bet, you do sometime wonder what is inside the H50 and How it function of between Pump and Water Block, this educate you.


















I borrow pics from XBITLAB


----------



## Killhouse

Thanks gamerig, I was looking for those photos for the main page a while back - saw them in some review somewhere.

+rep


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fireisdangerous84* 
Here are some pics of my new build










Ahhh Neat!, Your H50 is on the top? If so, I really like your set it up there..


----------



## XiZeL

just installed mine count me in....
and rep for that pic of the insides


----------



## BinaryDemon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Sweet, you should get some updated pics at some point! The prospect is jizz-worthy










Cable management could be better, but I managed to keep most of it off the motherboard so, Im happy.









I probably should have taken this one at night with the lights out- but some glowing blue sexyness.


----------



## XiZeL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BinaryDemon*


Cable management could be better, but I managed to keep most of it off the motherboard so, Im happy.

I probably should have taken this one at night with the lights out- but some glowing blue sexyness.


what fans did u use for your push/pull config?

nice rig


----------



## Killhouse

Nice photos, nice rig, but get those cables sorted!







Can't you send some behind the back panel?


----------



## Waterox

How far can you push your Phenom X4 965 with the H50?

What are your stable records?


----------



## Killhouse

My stable record was 3.8 GHz but I'm an overclocking noob. That wasnt CPU limited though, so I dont know what - maybe RAM or NB.


----------



## Lefty67

So if I buy this for my AMD will I need to take out my Motherboard to put in a backplate?


----------



## BCC

Well ithink you can use the other screws they give you. But i did take mine out, then i relized i prob could have saved that step
but i figured use the hardware that came with the h50


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lefty67* 
So if I buy this for my AMD will I need to take out my Motherboard to put in a backplate?

Correct, you might be able to bodge it into the old backplate if the screws fit though I highly discourage this. The best way is to take the motherboard out and replace the backplate.


----------



## Waterox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lefty67* 
So if I buy this for my AMD will I need to take out my Motherboard to put in a backplate?

you have to do that for every motherboard, intel or AMD.


----------



## BCC

I think you should use the hardware that came with the h50. Better safe than sorry


----------



## Deegan

i could have used the exsisting hardware i had for my old waterblock, but i would use the hw that it came with TBH it was easy because i have my wires managed.


----------



## BCC

Well i just put mine in last night it took me about 45min, i removed my mobo and used the hardware that came with the h50. Not to mention i also put one in my friend i7 last night also, again 45 min. And we both have antec 1200 cases. And all our wires are hidden. It is easier than you think. Just dive in.


----------



## Deegan

^^ see what im saying cake my man cake.


----------



## BCC

I think its super easy. Well because it really is


----------



## TempestxPR

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kyleax1* 
you can add me

Push/Pull as exhaust








































This is how I make sure I get fresh air into the rad









im in luv with your pc how did you di that with the uv thing


----------



## mlcollins33

i know a few weeks ago when this thing was getting a lot of attention everyone was concerned with it putting hot air in to the case..so i installed mine blowing out as exhaust and i haven't noticed any drop in performance i just used thumb screws to attach it to the case. it keeps my i5 @4ghz cool @30c idle and 55c under load. my ambient is around 22c to 24c.

just thought i would share and i dont know if someone already posted something similar..i didnt feel like reading 39 pages


----------



## STDSkillz

Yay, it got here! Pics coming soon.


----------



## BreakDown

Im really thinking on buying the corsair h50.

so i have some question for you.

Is it true that in a push pull configuration it beats ANY air cooling cpu heatsink?
i dont want a fanboy answer, i just want to know facts.

Do i need any requirement in order to install it?

Is it completely silent or very silent? (ie, it still uses fans i believe)
can i use any fans with it?


----------



## BCC

yes it is better, and no you dont need any extra parts


----------



## the_milk_man

Is it true that in a push/pull configuration it beats ANY air cooling cpu heatsink?
i dont want a fanboy answer, i just want to know facts.


> Yes.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Do i need any requirement in order to install it?
> 
> 
> It comes with everything you need.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Is it completely silent or very silent? (ie, it still uses fans i believe)
> 
> 
> If you use slient fans then yes, it will be silent.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> can i use any fans with it?
> 
> 
> Any 120mm x __mm fan will do.


----------



## BreakDown

Quote:



Originally Posted by *the_milk_man*


Any 120mm x __mm fan will do.


So can i use my noctua fans?

should i move from my noctua nf p12 to the corsair? or is there going to be only a 1Âº difference?

any recommended fans?

thank you for your time.

EDIT: what all that about a new h50?


----------



## ccomputertek

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *BreakDown*   So can i use my noctua fans?

should i move from my noctua nf p12 to the corsair? or is there going to be only a 1Âº difference?

any recommended fans?

thank you for your time.

EDIT: what all that about a new h50?  
 I highly recommend these fans, or any san ace for that matter, better than panaflo, sunon, delta and any other fans that come to mind.People on another forum were raving about san ace 1011 for using on their water cooling radiators.Google it.. I think the part # changed a little.

  
 YouTube- San Ace Goodness  



 
 Question:

Why do I see some of these H50 come with just screws and metal brackets and some with screws and springs with nice thick plastic brackets ? New kit revision ? I like the plastic looking bracket setup with the springs to mount better than the metal ones, I don't know which is the old style or new style or what thats all about.


----------



## liverpoolonly

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ccomputertek* 
I highly recommend these fans, or any san ace for that matter, better than panaflo, sunon, delta and any other fans that come to mind.People on another forum were raving about san ace 1011 for using on their water cooling radiators.Google it..

YouTube- San Ace Goodness

Question:

Why do I see some of these H50 come with just screws and metal brackets and some with screws and springs with nice thick plastic brackets ? New kit revision ? I like the plastic looking bracket setup with the springs to mount better than the metal ones, I don't know which is the old style or new style or what thats all about.

Just like my quite deltas @ 4000rpm lol guna need a fan controller i found that out.







top air coolers beat the H50 like the megahelems and ND14 im sure thats the case.


----------



## ccomputertek

These are the San Ace that replace part # 1011 http://db.sanyodenki.co.jp/product_d...master_id=2477


----------



## ccomputertek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *liverpoolonly* 
top air coolers beat the H50 like the megahelems and ND14 im sure thats the case.

Maybe with the stock fan corsair provides, but not with the right fan / fans those air coolers won't beat it.


----------



## GAMERIG

@liverpoolonly's quote: "*top air coolers beat the H50 like the megahelems and ND14 im sure thats the case*".

  
 YouTube- Corsair Hydro Series H50 versus a "High-Performance" CPU cooler  



 
I never will come back to Hi-ended AIR Cooler, if H50 worn out or failure. I would buy another H50 or upgrade from H50 to WC loop, either.


----------



## BreakDown

could not this be biast?

it has a pretty big corsair logo, all companies do that to some extend... not really reliable


----------



## Killhouse

Yeah it's certainly biased, but there's still no denyin' that this is a great cooler. And that video made me lol a bit just because it was quite well done


----------



## ccomputertek

The video is kinda useless, but still entertaining.Who knows if corsair snuck a really good high speed fan on the H50 and put a crappy fan on the other, spinning at much lower RPM no less....... who knows ? they could have at least showed the fan RPM are equal and that the same exact fans were used.

Also, mabe they used american cheese as a TIM for the air cooled one.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ccomputertek*


The video is kinda useless, but still entertaining.Who knows if corsair snuck a really good high speed fan on the H50 and put a crappy fan on the other, spinning at much lower RPM no less....... who knows ? they could have at least showed the fan RPM are equal and that the same exact fans were used.


They did say 2 identical systems. But I agree they leave a lot to the imagination. Amusing nonetheless.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BreakDown*


Im really thinking on buying the corsair h50.

so i have some question for you.

Is it true that in a push pull configuration it beats ANY air cooling cpu heatsink?
i dont want a fanboy answer, i just want to know facts.

Do i need any requirement in order to install it?

Is it completely silent or very silent? (ie, it still uses fans i believe)
can i use any fans with it?


I understand your concern.. I had the same queries. No fan boy answer here









It seems to be matching if not exceeding most high-end air coolers. The mega seems to be holding its own at the moment.

I had a Xiggy Thor's Hammer installed with a single fan configuration and the H50 has beat it by a couple of degrees both at idle and load. (see my previous posts here). I have my H50 in a push/pull exhaust config at the moment.

The other thing that will effect your temps is both the ambient temps and your case temps. You need to have some good case ventilation happening to get the hot air out anyway.

Is it quiet - yes, very. But if you have a ton of fans and a GPU fan ramped up (like I do), this will not add to your system's volume.


----------



## ToxicAdam

If the megahelems wasn't over 5 inches tall I'd go for it. These gigantic 6+ inch tall heatsinks are just stupid. I had the Cooler-master V10 before H50.


----------



## STDSkillz

So I got this bad boy in! I'm quite excited, I must say (does that mean I can be in the club now!?). Here are a couple of pics:


















And now here are screens of before temps, from Realtemp, SpeedFan and Everest (ambient temperature noted on the SpeedFan):


























And the after temps:


























For those who don't remember, I was rocking the Zalman 9500 before. I think it's safe to say there is a noticeable difference


----------



## Sethy666

Nice pics and temp improvement.... I guess your sold on the H50 now?


----------



## yawa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *STDSkillz*


For those who don't remember, I was rocking the Zalman 9500 before. I think it's safe to say there is a noticeable difference










Lawls you too? Check my computer profile, I'm still rocking it.

I'll be getting my H50 either tomorrow or Friday. Are you using two fans on the radiator?


----------



## STDSkillz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Nice pics and temp improvement.... I guess your sold on the H50 now?









Heh, yeah, to say the least









Quote:


Originally Posted by *yawa* 
Lawls you too? Check my computer profile, I'm still rocking it.

I'll be getting my H50 either tomorrow or Friday. Are you using two fans on the radiator?

I'm actually just using the stock fan Corsair provided. I might eventually move toward a two fan push/pull setup once I get serious about overclocking.


----------



## USAFFCC

oooo, me, me!
currently sitting in a box due to RMA motherboard








buuut ill get pics up as soon as the new one comes in


----------



## XiZeL

here goes my setup i just have one question










is the difference of 8cÂº between 2 cores normal? of did a do something wrong putting it in and thermal past on wrong?

because even in a stress test its like that


----------



## Sethy666

Im not all that familiar with quads but Id suggest that it may be the TIM application.

Did you use the pre-applied TIM or clean it off and use soemthing else?

**** Can I please request to all posters, when you quote another person, pls remove the pics. Unless your response relates to the pic, its really annoying to scroll through the same pics over and over again. *****

Thanks


----------



## StrongmanSal

How does this thing hold up wear and tear wise? Wont this bad boy dry up? It would burn ur chip up....


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StrongmanSal*


How does this thing hold up wear and tear wise? Wont this bad boy dry up? It would burn ur chip up....


Warranty guarantee for 2 years. Its a closed system - the fluid has no where to evaporate too.

Enable your temp system shutdown failsafe in BIOS - shouldn't have any probs.


----------



## SniperXX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ccomputertek* 
I highly recommend these fans, or any san ace for that matter, better than panaflo, sunon, delta and any other fans that come to mind.People on another forum were raving about san ace 1011 for using on their water cooling radiators.Google it.. I think the part # changed a little.

YouTube- San Ace Goodness

Question:

Why do I see some of these H50 come with just screws and metal brackets and some with screws and springs with nice thick plastic brackets ? New kit revision ? I like the plastic looking bracket setup with the springs to mount better than the metal ones, I don't know which is the old style or new style or what thats all about.

Anyone know where to get those fans?


----------



## xquisit

Question: I want to buy an h50, and have a fan on each side of the radiator..and 2 fans on my side-panel... I have a storm scout case and was wondering which way should the air go

[Fan] = fan
|| = radiator
--> & <-- = Air flow

[Fan] --> || [Fan] ---> & both my side-panel fans exhaust?

Or can you guys point me in the right direction.. If you need to know the architecture of my storm-scout I can post some more information! Thank you so much, in advance!

(The h50 is the only water-cooling component in my case, rest is air blown)


----------



## BCC

push/pull is the way i have mine, all venting out of the case


----------



## ccomputertek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SniperXX*


Anyone know where to get those fans?



Newark.com

go here http://db.sanyodenki.co.jp/product_d...ing_dcfan.html and find the part # of the fan you want, then put the part # in the search on newark.Use the advanced search at the top of the sanyo site to find your fan.


----------



## BCC

http://www.microcenter.com/index.html


----------



## xquisit

Some pictures so you guys can help me decide









Quote:



Originally Posted by *xquisit*


Question: I want to buy an h50, and have a fan on each side of the radiator..and 2 fans on my side-panel... I have a storm scout case and was wondering which way should the air go

[Fan] = fan
|| = radiator
--> & <-- = Air flow

[Fan] --> || [Fan] ---> & both my side-panel fans exhaust?

Or can you guys point me in the right direction.. If you need to know the architecture of my storm-scout I can post some more information! Thank you so much, in advance!

(The h50 is the only water-cooling component in my case, rest is air blown)


----------



## Waterox

how come your video cards don't have crossfire bridges?


----------



## Waterox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BCC*


http://www.microcenter.com/index.html


Those prices are CRAZY. Some stuffs I bought from NCIX seems like black friday bargains compare to this site.


----------



## fireisdangerous84

Hi some new pics i took, added some uv lights into my case to brighten it up a bit


----------



## fireisdangerous84

I played aroud with my fan configuration last night and i think ive found the best ballance between cooling and silence. I have the stock corsair fan as the pull fan at the top of my case and in my bios ive set the fan to be silent and i have the sharkoon silent eagle running in ultra silent mode. i can now only hear the fans if i press my ear upto the case which is exatley what i wanted.

By having the fans quiet my idle temp for my stock i5 is 30c which is probably higher than it should be. I havnt tried overclocking the cpu with this fan config but i think i will prob have to make the fans less silent to cool the cpu at say 3.6.

Im thinking of either getting another 5770 or a solid state drive but cant decide, Â£140 for a 64gb drive is still a hard sell for me


----------



## Waterox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fireisdangerous84* 
I played aroud with my fan configuration last night and i think ive found the best ballance between cooling and silence. I have the stock corsair fan as the pull fan at the top of my case and in my bios ive set the fan to be silent and i have the sharkoon silent eagle running in ultra silent mode. i can now only hear the fans if i press my ear upto the case which is exatley what i wanted.

By having the fans quiet my idle temp for my stock i5 is 30c which is probably higher than it should be. I havnt tried overclocking the cpu with this fan config but i think i will prob have to make the fans less silent to cool the cpu at say 3.6.

Im thinking of either getting another 5770 or a solid state drive but cant decide, Â£140 for a 64gb drive is still a hard sell for me

Video card FTW!!!!!


----------



## XiZeL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Im not all that familiar with quads but Id suggest that it may be the TIM application.

Did you use the pre-applied TIM or clean it off and use soemthing else?

**** Can I please request to all posters, when you quote another person, pls remove the pics. Unless your response relates to the pic, its really annoying to scroll through the same pics over and over again. *****

Thanks


im using a dual core, exactly the same as you have in ur sig, also i used the pre aplied tim


----------



## jam1e

got mine installed, man its awesome. went from loads temps of 62/62/66/66 with a zalman 9700 to 49/45/50/50 with the h50. i just used the TIM that came with it but seems ok. currently at 3.4 (425x8) @ 1.35volts... no bad eh


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *XiZeL* 
is the difference of 8cÂº between 2 cores normal? of did a do something wrong putting it in and thermal past on wrong?

Did you have this contrast before you installed the H50? I know some chips have problems with their thermometers. If not I suggest remounting the CPU block, making sure to apply TIM evenly all over the chip. Then make sure you tighten down the block evenly (dont just tighten one screw up until it wont go any more, then do the next screw). Another thing you could check is that you've used the right screws. The slightly smaller ones for AMD, the larger ones for intel.


----------



## jam1e

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
The slightly smaller ones for AMD, the larger ones for intel.

:s i used the smaller ones for my intel, they seemed to fit better...


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jam1e* 
:s i used the smaller ones for my intel, they seemed to fit better...

Ah, my bad - I've never used the intel brackets but I just know the smaller ones for the AMD bracket.


----------



## jam1e

i never actually removed my original backplate, just used the one from the 9700. saved me from having to take out the motherboard. w00t


----------



## StrongmanSal

+rep seth


----------



## Willhemmens

I currently have my H50 apart, with the tubes out and stuff. I plan on getting some clear tubing for it and a res. Does anyone want any specific photo's of anything while i have it apart? Its going to be apart for a few days. My unit had about 150ml of clear luqid in btw.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
I currently have my H50 apart, with the tubes out and stuff. I plan on getting some clear tubing for it and a res. Does anyone want any specific photo's of anything while i have it apart? Its going to be apart for a few days. My unit had about 150ml of clear luqid in btw.

I'd love to see a little worklog of this







lots of questions about replacing tubes/rad etc.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I'd love to see a little worklog of this







lots of questions about replacing tubes/rad etc.









Sure,i might take some photo's in a few minutes as im waiting for the camera to charge. Think i will make a log. Do you want pictures posted here too?


----------



## Killhouse

That would be great, or at least post a link back here


----------



## BreakDown

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
I understand your concern.. I had the same queries. No fan boy answer here









It seems to be matching if not exceeding most high-end air coolers. The mega seems to be holding its own at the moment.

I had a Xiggy Thor's Hammer installed with a single fan configuration and the H50 has beat it by a couple of degrees both at idle and load. (see my previous posts here). I have my H50 in a push/pull exhaust config at the moment.

The other thing that will effect your temps is both the ambient temps and your case temps. You need to have some good case ventilation happening to get the hot air out anyway.

Is it quiet - yes, very. But if you have a ton of fans and a GPU fan ramped up (like I do), this will not add to your system's volume.

Ok, thanks, i have good aircase flow right now, its only 4Âº above a "no case" configuration.

One last question, in order to set up a push pull configuration, how much space do i need? (ie: how much space from the back of the case towards the front)

EDIT: another question, i know some WC loops need to be "turned on" before you actually turn on your computer, is it the same with the h50?


----------



## BreakDown

@ Willhemmens

youre going to tear appart the h50 and replace its tubing? if so, wouldnt the h50 break appart? i am interested in your results. i agree you should post up a work log.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
That would be great, or at least post a link back here









Here's the few i got before the camera died.


----------



## BreakDown

i cant see them, the link seems dead? maybe incorrect link?

EDIT: i can now

nothing broke? how do you exect to replace the filling? now you will have to keep refiling it when it evaporates, right?


----------



## sexybastard

awesome pics. thanks for posting them.

you should try using a 2x120mm radiator as well. would be interesting to see if the little pump could handle that.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BreakDown* 
i cant see them, the link seems dead? maybe incorrect link?

EDIT: i can now

nothing broke? how do you exect to replace the filling? now you will have to keep refiling it when it evaporates, right?

I should be to get it almost as water tight as before, i cut the end off one ot the tubes to see whats inside and to get a measurement of the size of pipe needed.
I plan on using a res in the future and slowly improving to a full custom water loop.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sexybastard* 
awesome pics. thanks for posting them.

you should try using a 2x120mm radiator as well. would be interesting to see if the little pump could handle that.

I will post some more if you want, just tell me what you want photo's of and i will take some. I plan on getting tubing and a res in the next few days. Then a pump and bigger radiator, most lightly a 2x120mm one, after chistmas. Will have to take out or do something with the stock pump though then get a decent water block even later.


----------



## BreakDown

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
I should be to get it almost as water tight as before, i cut the end off one ot the tubes to see whats inside and to get a measurement of the size of pipe needed.
I plan on using a res in the future and slowly improving to a full custom water loop.

I will post some more if you want, just tell me what you want photo's of and i will take some. I plan on getting tubing and a res in the next few days. Then a pump and bigger radiator, most lightly a 2x120mm one, after chistmas. Will have to take out or do something with the stock pump though then get a decent water block even later.

im really interested in your work.

im planning in getting the h50, just to make a first contact at water cooling.

so ill be following your work. great idea, hope it comes out fine.
cheers


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BreakDown* 
im really interested in your work.

im planning in getting the h50, just to make a first contact at water cooling.

so ill be following your work. great idea, hope it comes out fine.
cheers

Thanks and yeah, i've been fine with air cooling for a good while now and i only wanted to get the H50 so i could get used to water cooling and slowly progress from there.


----------



## Killhouse

Fantastic work Willhemmens, can't wait to see how this turns out! +rep


----------



## STDSkillz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BreakDown* 
EDIT: another question, i know some WC loops need to be "turned on" before you actually turn on your computer, is it the same with the h50?

Nope, you don't need to test the H50 for leaks. All you gotta do is turn that baby on and you're ready to go!


----------



## stetsonaw

add me to the club...

running push/pull on mine with AS5 as paste. running about 700mhz overclock, 25~30 idle/35~45 100%.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Here's the few i got before the camera died.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I wish reviews had done that.. I wondered how the guts looked.









Thanks man.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *XiZeL* 
im using a dual core, exactly the same as you have in ur sig, also i used the pre aplied tim

@XiZel - sorry, me bad.

When I first applied the pump head, I replaced the stock TIM with MX3 but I ended up with skewed temps.

I removed the head, reapplied the TIM with 4 small dots around the CPU and one(1) in the middle (as suggested by Killhouse) -5 dots all up. I also dont think I had the head sitting properly on the CPU. Once I reseated it, with the new TIM pattern, all was good.

If you are using the pre-applied TIM, then all I can think of is, the pump head isnt sitting flush.

Try a re-seat. You will need to get some TIM because you wont be able to use the stock once you take the pump head off the CPU.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
I removed the head, reapplied the TIM with 4 small dots around the CPU and one(1) in the middle (as suggested by Killhouse) -5 dots all up. I also dont think I had the head sitting properly on the CPU. Once I reseated it, with the new TIM pattern, all was good.









reseat normally works, make sure you tighten up the screws evenly (dont squash all the TIM out of one corner)


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
I wish reviews had done that.. I wondered how the guts looked.









Thanks man.

wow you really quoted all those pics just to say that?

make it easier for everyone else and remove the img tags


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sexybastard* 
wow you really quoted all those pics just to say that?

make it easier for everyone else and remove the img tags

















I agree, but I'll let you off because they're awesome pics... and I'm wasted.


----------



## ccomputertek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
I wish reviews had done that.. I wondered how the guts looked.
Thanks man.


There was at least one review online that tore it apart.... so this was silly.

Also silly to tear it apart and try to make something else out of it, when it's only caibrated to work togeather as it came from factory :swearing:


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ccomputertek* 
There was at least one review online that tore it apart.... so this was silly.

Also silly to tear it apart and try to make something else out of it, when it's only caibrated to work togeather as it came from factory :swearing:
















Yeah but arent you just a little bit curious?







Kudos to Will, I would never do this myself but it has massive potential to be full of win. Sure it may be stupid and dangerous, but that's what we like on OCN.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Sure it may be stupid and dangerous, but that's what we like on OCN.

You ARE wasted, arent you







<LOL>


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
You ARE wasted, arent you







<LOL>























.......


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 





















.......









Well before you tooo further rat-faced, can you add me to the esteemed membership list, please


----------



## ccomputertek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Yeah but arent you just a little bit curious?

NO ! !

And if this was posted in a watercooling section of a forum they would have chased him out.

From what I gather he is gonna try and remove the pump and just use the cold plate and run an external RAD and pump with a RES.... this was useless, might as well toss it in the trash now.Even the review online that tore it apart waited till the review was over to show you what the inside looked like.It will never work right again...... just build your own custom cooling now and not use anything from the H50







:swearing:





















:swearing:









LOLOLOLLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLLOLOOL

Minus one REP point 4 U


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Well before you tooo further rat-faced, can you add me to the esteemed membership list, please









Oh wow, I thought you were on there ages ago, sorry man!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ccomputertek* 
NO ! !

And if this was posted in a watercooling section of a forum they would have chased him out.

[...]

Minus one REP point 4 U









1) It is posted in the watercooling section.
2)







I think its pretty cool, even if it doesent work, his plan has a few flaws but I say go for it. I think he can pull off some funky tubing at least.


----------



## xquisit

I have purchased these fans along with my H50 last night:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103063

Will one of these + my exhaust CM Red LED (that came wiht my Storm Scout) be alright for a push/pull set-up?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
I have purchased these fans along with my H50 last night:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103063

Will one of these + my exhaust CM Red LED (that came wiht my Storm Scout) be alright for a push/pull set-up?

I think you should put the storm scout as the pulling fan and the corsair fan as the pushing fan. As far as I recall the highest CFM fan should be pulling.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ccomputertek* 
NO ! !

And if this was posted in a watercooling section of a forum they would have chased him out.

From what I gather he is gonna try and remove the pump and just use the cold plate and run an external RAD and pump with a RES.... this was useless, might as well toss it in the trash now.Even the review online that tore it apart waited till the review was over to show you what the inside looked like.It will never work right again...... just build your own custom cooling now and not use anything from the H50








:swearing:





















:swearing:









LOLOLOLLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLLOLOOL

Minus one REP point 4 U









Its all good chief.

Its the guys dollars, his rig and his responsibility. We all learn by doing. He may have trashed the h50 but he has probably learned more by do this than a whole heap of googling.

Would you & I have done it? No, but it not about me or you.

Quote:

Oh wow, I thought you were on there ages ago, sorry man!
LOL, no probs...


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Everyone here should join the water cooling club in my sig. I am the creator of the thread, so you don't have to be worried about being called out as not actually water cooling.


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I think you should put the storm scout as the pulling fan and the corsair fan as the pushing fan. As far as I recall the highest CFM fan should be pulling.

I have purchased 3x Red LED CM fans (90c..) and was hoping it would be OK to use...but I am kind've pissed off newegg doesn't have the AMD brackets..and corsair is sold out atm :swearing:


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
I have purchased 3x Red LED CM fans (90c..) and was hoping it would be OK to use...but I am kind've pissed off newegg doesn't have the AMD brackets..and corsair is sold out atm :swearing:

Sorry, I misread. Just pick the one that has the lowest CFM as the push fan. Maybe its best if you can move the storm scout fan and use 2 of the same fan on the heatsink (the Red LED CM fans).


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
Everyone here should join the water cooling club in my sig. I am the creator of the thread, so you don't have to be worried about being called out as not actually water cooling. 

sorry to quote myself, but if you post in the watercooling club make sure you post pics. i will not add you if you do not post at least one picture of your rig.


----------



## ccomputertek

kevingreenbmx, How is your H50 doing with the delta fan ? I was gonna put a really high speed fan on there and start low RPM and slowly go higher to find the point of diminishing return as far as when going any faster will no longer help the H50.... My guess is anything higher than 120CFM will not drop temps anymore and at that point the H50 is maxed out and as good as it's gonna get.Have you found the wall as far as that with the delta ?


----------



## xquisit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Sorry, I misread. Just pick the one that has the lowest CFM as the push fan. Maybe its best if you can move the storm scout fan and use 2 of the same fan on the heatsink (the Red LED CM fans).


thanks for the tip +rep


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ccomputertek*


kevingreenbmx, How is your H50 doing with the delta fan ? I was gonna put a really high speed fan on there and start low RPM and slowly go higher to find the point of diminishing return as far as when going any faster will no longer help the H50.... My guess is anything higher than 120CFM will not drop temps anymore and at that point the H50 is maxed out and as good as it's gonna get.Have you found the wall as far as that with the delta ?


I have found no wall. the faster the fan the lower the temps.

what i have found though is that i reach a point of "SHUT THAT THING THE [email protected]#$ UP I CAN"T HEAR!!!!!!"

seriously, that much air pushing through those fins will kill your eardrums.

as for the temps, with my fan @ 50% I see max load temps of 82c on my cores during a 24 hour prime95 run at 4.0 GHZ w/ 1.39v vcore


----------



## xquisit

Ok I have a question on if my push/pull set-up with my 2k CM Red LED fans should be intake or exhaust.

I have a storm scout case.

I have a front intake, and will be adding one above it (in my cd-rom cage) that will be intake as well.

The case has a 140mm exhaust fan located on the very top.

I have 2 side-panel spaces for fans, but I doubt I can fit two..so I might have one fan, and was hoping you guys can tell me if it should be intake/exhaust.

Thanks in advance!

P.S. I have my 2x5770s releasing hot air to the back of my case (v1 style coolers), and I hope this information will help.


----------



## R00ST3R

@xquisit

Your best bet would be to place it towards the intake for best temps. Cooler air is to be had there w/ out the addition of system heat.


----------



## xquisit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R00ST3R*


@xquisit

Your best bet would be to place it towards the intake for best temps. Cooler air is to be had there w/ out the addition of system heat.


I would love to see some pictures of this, and I would be too worried going through all these posts..but I have no choice









While I am, if you do come across some pictures..please, feel free to pos! Thanks in advance


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xquisit*


I would love to see some pictures of this, and I would be too worried going through all these posts..but I have no choice









While I am, if you do come across some pictures..please, feel free to pos! Thanks in advance


First page of this thread, second and forth posts down. Personally mine is mounted on the exhaust in push only. I choose quiet over temps.


----------



## xquisit

OK so you guys suggest I make it an intake- push/pull setup, and I will only have one exhaust fan in my system (140mm on the top of my case)

or should I make my side-panel an exhaust as well?


----------



## R00ST3R

Your case has a 120mm exhaust fan in the rear too doesn't it? I'd make the side fan(s) intake as well. It will help keep your vid cards nice and cool.


----------



## ErBall

Ok, i bought one. Running the standard setup right now, but have two sflexs coming soon.

So far preforms better than my dark knight I had.


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Your case has a 120mm exhaust fan in the rear too doesn't it? I'd make the side fan(s) intake as well. It will help keep your vid cards nice and cool.

Yeah there is a 120mm exhaust, but didn't you recommend me changing that to an intake..and adding the rad to it, and then another intake fan attached to the right side of it?


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
Yeah there is a 120mm exhaust, but didn't you recommend me changing that to an intake..and adding the rad to it, and then another intake fan attached to the right side of it?

I'm sorry, I failed to say "front intake". I'm not sure about setting it as a rear intake due to the fact that the PSU and video card (at least enclosed vid cards) dump alot of heat out if the back side of the case, which then would be blown back in through the rad.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ErBall* 
Ok, i bought one. Running the standard setup right now, but have two sflexs coming soon.

So far preforms better than my dark knight I had.

Well done and look forward to any pics you may have.


----------



## ccomputertek

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*   I have found no wall. the faster the fan the lower the temps.

what i have found though is that i reach a point of "SHUT THAT THING THE [email protected]#$ UP I CAN"T HEAR!!!!!!"

seriously, that much air pushing through those fins will kill your eardrums.

as for the temps, with my fan @ 50% I see max load temps of 82c on my cores during a 24 hour prime95 run at 4.0 GHZ w/ 1.39v vcore  
 I can't find a speed control panel that will handle anything over 7 watts.I guess with these fans you just connect only the yellow wire or the PWM wire to your MB and power and ground go to power supply.Someone in another forum said the H50 hit the wall at 130'ish CFM and after that nothing but mabe a 1C difference.I guess it depends on alot, push / pull and how your case is designed and how well your case ventilation is.I allways saw a decrease in temps whenever I had no intake fans and had all the back, side, and top fans exhaust and no fans in the front 120MM holes, leaving the front empty for the intake.

you should be able to get in the mid to high 70's because your getting close to where your CPU would start to throttle itself down, I know your PC rarely sees that load, for that everyday OC.Dump the delta and get San Ace fans, everyone raves about them for RAD use, plus it has an aluminum frame and connected to the RAD may help SAP additional heat from it.Aluminum + aluminum adding to the surface area......... lol









Soooooo get this one:

  
 YouTube- San Ace Goodness  



 
 OLOLOLOLOLOOOLOLOLOL :0)


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Fantastic work Willhemmens, can't wait to see how this turns out! +rep










Quote:


Originally Posted by *ccomputertek* 
NO ! !

And if this was posted in a watercooling section of a forum they would have chased him out.

From what I gather he is gonna try and remove the pump and just use the cold plate and run an external RAD and pump with a RES.... this was useless, might as well toss it in the trash now.Even the review online that tore it apart waited till the review was over to show you what the inside looked like.It will never work right again...... just build your own custom cooling now and not use anything from the H50







:swearing:





















:swearing:









LOLOLOLLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLLOLOOL

Minus one REP point 4 U









Its my H50, not anyone elses. I can do what i like with my H50 and if others are interested, then thats good. I will eventually upgrade to a full custom loop with none of the H50 parts in it. All i have done is undo screws and now cut off one of the pipe ends. If i hadnt cut off one of the pipe ends i would have been able to put it back together just like new. You can toss your H50 in the trash but im certainly not going to.


----------



## hxcnero

man.. just ignore him. its your stuff. you can do what you want. even if it doesnt work you can still learn a great deal from it. good luck with the project.


----------



## ccomputertek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hxcnero*


man.. just ignore him. its your stuff. you can do what you want. even if it doesnt work you can still learn a great deal from it. good luck with the project.










Don't do it ! ! ! ! Willhemmens ........... Guys what he's doing to the H50 is attempted murder ......... ROFL


----------



## yawa

Well, picked mine up today at Best Buy and just finished installing it. Not bad at all (though I think I screwed up the TIM application), I'm idling at between 30-31C at stock.

I came up with a weird way of venting that seems to be working pretty well flow wise. I took the back 120mm Fan from my Thermaltake Element S, and screwed it on to the bottom part of the roof of the case blowing cool air down into it. The giant fan at the top I flipped over to do the same thing (Creating kind of a push/push with the case as the completely unnecessary barrier). I then set up a Push/Pull Exhaust using my Extra Thermaltake fan and the stock Corsair one.

I have a feeling my medicore TIM application may be holding my temps back a bit but the inside of the case is definately cooler overall than it was.

Certainly even in this sorry state, a million times better than the Zalman 9500A.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xquisit*


Yeah there is a 120mm exhaust, but didn't you recommend me changing that to an intake..and adding the rad to it, and then another intake fan attached to the right side of it?


I would keep it as exhaust. This is the age-old question from this thread, you have 2 options:

*Intake* - your CPU will be colder but the rest of your system will start to heat up very quickly, especially under load. That rad put's out a lot of heat into your case and personally that's not something I'm comfortable with. However, if you have good cooling on your RAM and GPUs then this might be the right option for you. I have an antec 902 with a 200mm 101CFM fan right on top of the case exhausting, and even I see motherboard temps getting very high.

*Exhaust* - this is contrary to Corsair's guidelines, mostly because your CPU temps may be a degree or 2 higher at load. But it helps general airflow in your case - you don't want too much intake compared to exhaust because otherwise air cant escape from your case and you get hot air pockets building up. You could reverse some other fans to account for this (and you should, if you decide to go intake). I suggest a side exhaust fan by your GPUs since they are another large heat generator.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xquisit*


thanks for the tip +rep












Quote:



Originally Posted by *hxcnero*


man.. just ignore him. its your stuff. you can do what you want. even if it doesnt work you can still learn a great deal from it. good luck with the project.










Agreed! I'm excited to see some new pictures of this when you get a bit further, keep us posted - you should make a worklog if you havnt already









Quote:



Originally Posted by *yawa*


I came up with a weird way of venting that seems to be working pretty well flow wise. I took the back 120mm Fan from my Thermaltake Element S, and screwed it on to the bottom part of the roof of the case blowing cool air down into it. The giant fan at the top I flipped over to do the same thing (Creating kind of a push/push with the case as the completely unnecessary barrier). I then set up a Push/Pull Exhaust using my Extra Thermaltake fan and the stock Corsair one.


Congrats on the purchase







Would love to see some pics of this setup if you can manage, sounds pretty novel! I'll add you to the front page


----------



## Killhouse

Here are some photos of my rig for you at long last:


----------



## GAMERIG

Frys selling the THICK FAN 120x120x38. I just wondering Link Depot 120x120x38mm DC Fan is good product?










Ofc I have 2 x FANS Pull/push on H50. I want extra as third fan for the outside of case's mesh to exhaust thru where H50's exhaust. it will be more lowest temp?


----------



## Killhouse

You'll want a good fan controller on that if its rated at 48 dBa, that's very loud. 4.2W is a lot of power draw as well so you probably won't be able to just hook it onto your motherboard, you could do some serious damage.

The website gives no indication of static pressure but you can assume it to be quite good simply because its 38mm and pretty daym powerful. This fan would work great to actually mount it on the radiator though putting it in series with 2 less powerful fans is likely to just cause a bottleneck of airflow.

If you've got a good fan controller (one that one burnt out at 4.2W) then go for it I think


----------



## BCC

add me pls


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ccomputertek* 
I guess with these fans you just connect only the yellow wire or the PWM wire to your MB and power and ground go to power supply.

On 3-wire fans the motherboard requires a ground and the yellow wire from the fan. The fan will send (probably 5V) pulses through the yellow wire relative to it's ground. Just connecting the yellow wire will probably do nothing. Also DO NOT split the ground and send it to your motherboard as well, unless you do some serious testing, and I mean getting your voltemeter and your motherboard manual out to make sure it's ok, every fan is different. Also the yellow wire is just an RPM indicator, you wont be able to control the speed of the fan from this.

As for the 4-pin wires, I'm not sure, you might be ok with this but I don't know how they work.

Quote:

add me pls
added you a couple of days ago


----------



## ccomputertek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


On 3-wire fans the motherboard requires a ground and the yellow wire from the fan. The fan will send (probably 5V) pulses through the yellow wire relative to it's ground. Just connecting the yellow wire will probably do nothing. Also DO NOT split the ground and send it to your motherboard as well, unless you do some serious testing, and I mean getting your voltemeter and your motherboard manual out to make sure it's ok, every fan is different. Also the yellow wire is just an RPM indicator, you wont be able to control the speed of the fan from this.


Sorry, I meant fans with 4 wires on them.

Quoting sadasius13:

For these fans you cannot use a regular fan﻿ controller. You will fry it instantly! These fans require a PWM signal to be used to regulate RPM. There are 4 wires on these fans. The brown wire is the PWM wire. So what you do when your water cooling is you hook up all 4 wires (as per the fans on rad in video here) to the PWM on the motherboard for the CPU fan header. 
sadasius13 (2 months ago)Make sure you know which﻿ one to splice that into or you will fry your motherboard. Then you take one RPM signal wire (yellow) and hook it beside the PWM connection on the same header. Then you take all the power wires and wire them separately to molex connectors and make sure to spread the load over different wires connected to the PSU as they will get hot and melt if you have them all hooked to the same set of wires. 
sadasius13 (2 months ago)So if you do all this correctly you can﻿ use the BIOS settings or a program to control your fans speeds. Hope this helps!


----------



## GAMERIG

CPU [i.e. Computer Power User] Vol 9, Iss #13








Corsair Hydro Series H50 is now FAMOUS and SPOTLIGHT in magazine, on internet such as commercial, articles, etc.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


You'll want a good fan controller on that if its rated at 48 dBa, that's very loud. 4.2W is a lot of power draw as well so you probably won't be able to just hook it onto your motherboard, you could do some serious damage.

The website gives no indication of static pressure but you can assume it to be quite good simply because its 38mm and pretty daym powerful. This fan would work great to actually mount it on the radiator though putting it in series with 2 less powerful fans is likely to just cause a bottleneck of airflow.

If you've got a good fan controller (one that one burnt out at 4.2W) then go for it I think










Killhouse, ahh really? thanks for infom details and your concerning, I really appreciate that. I wondering if it can connect on power supply instead of motherboard? Hmm*..

I recently purchased this is full aluminum fan








FAN-*AC 12388*
*AirFlow*: 85/97cfm
*Noise*: 41/44dBA
*Current*: 0.20/0.24A
*Speed*: 2700/3100rpm
*Power*: 16/19w
*Voltage*: 115v
*Frequency*: 50/60Hz








..Mm..

REP+ you deserve that!


----------



## catalyst

question for all you guys running push/pull.......
im fed up waiting on another set of screws being delivered, so im just gona go ahead and install my H50. is it ok to just use 2 screws on each fan? it seems like a lot of weight for only 2 screws to support








i`ll add the other 4 when the eventually arrive


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *catalyst*


question for all you guys running push/pull.......
im fed up waiting on another set of screws being delivered, so im just gona go ahead and install my H50. is it ok to just use 2 screws on each fan? it seems like a lot of weight for only 2 screws to support








i`ll add the other 4 when the eventually arrive










Dude, Yeah samething I did install two screws on each fan like that.. you will be fine.. go for it and enjoy with H50 in your rig when you look at that.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


Dude, Yeah samething I did install two screws on each fan like that.. you will be fine.. go for it and enjoy with H50 in your rig when you look at that.


Yep, that's how mine is setup


----------



## r31ncarnat3d

Quote:



Originally Posted by *catalyst*


question for all you guys running push/pull.......
im fed up waiting on another set of screws being delivered, so im just gona go ahead and install my H50. is it ok to just use 2 screws on each fan? it seems like a lot of weight for only 2 screws to support








i`ll add the other 4 when the eventually arrive










Most of the guys here did that. I used four screws on the Pull fan (the one facing the back of my case) and zipties on my push fan.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
I wondering if it can connect on power supply instead of motherboard? Hmm*..

Yep but it will be stuck at full speed unless you re-route the wires to connect it at 7V. It will then be stuck at 7V though. Let me know if you need more info on how to do this. That other fan looks crazy, 115V lawl xD.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *catalyst* 
question for all you guys running push/pull.......
im fed up waiting on another set of screws being delivered, so im just gona go ahead and install my H50. is it ok to just use 2 screws on each fan? it seems like a lot of weight for only 2 screws to support








i`ll add the other 4 when the eventually arrive









Your box should have come with 12 screws - 4 for the rad and 4 for installing the CPU. The other random 4 can be used to secure the other fan with a bit of a bodge. Put them through and use folded bits of cardboard as a washer to space them out. Sorry if that doesent make too much sense but you'll see what I mean if you were dealt the same screws that i did.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
CPU [i.e. Computer Power User] Vol 9, Iss #13
Corsair Hydro Series H50 is now FAMOUS and SPOTLIGHT in magazine, on internet such as commercial, articles, etc.

Nice find







+1!

And cheers for reps from above posters









EDITED: Drunken typos. Again.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Killhouse, your club is getting massive!! What are you going to do?!


----------



## Killhouse

I'm going to write up a proper FAQ on the front page soon, I just need a bit of time because it's drinking







time at university for the next 2 days xD


----------



## XiZeL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
@XiZel - sorry, me bad.

When I first applied the pump head, I replaced the stock TIM with MX3 but I ended up with skewed temps.

I removed the head, reapplied the TIM with 4 small dots around the CPU and one(1) in the middle (as suggested by Killhouse) -5 dots all up. I also dont think I had the head sitting properly on the CPU. Once I reseated it, with the new TIM pattern, all was good.

If you are using the pre-applied TIM, then all I can think of is, the pump head isnt sitting flush.

Try a re-seat. You will need to get some TIM because you wont be able to use the stock once you take the pump head off the CPU.

found what the problem is... seems some more recente dual and quads have some core temp sensor locked.... this only happens in idle, in load both cores are at the same tempos just one of my cores is locked at 39ÂºC


----------



## xquisit

feel free to add me to the club.. i had to remove a fan, so no more push/pull till i add my replacement fan

i think the problem was the old fans blades were hitting the rad

will take pictures later, i cant download win7 64bit driver for my logitech 4000 webcam


----------



## BCC

has anyone taken a 120mm fan and removed the fan, keeping the shell and using it as a spacer for a high speed fan.? i figure you would get better air flow, on the push/pull, and mount the spacer and the high speed fan on the inside(push). i say this, because the high speed fans have such a large orb center, and that would really be a dead spot, being that close to the radiator. im actually gonna do this later today when i get back from work. just to see. i am willing to bet it will run even cooler.!


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 









I'm going to write up a proper FAQ on the front page soon, I just need a bit of time because it's drinking







time at university for the next 2 days xD











This has become the most active thread in the water cooling forum.


----------



## Waterox

Argg...







.

It's painful to track my shipment with Fedex. I'm just hoping it'd arrive a day early or so and I'll pick it up at their store.


----------



## BCC

ok im back and i did remove a fan and mounted just the case of the fan to the inside of the radiator. now i have a fan pulling-radiator-emtyfan shell-scythe(133.60cfm)pushing. the spacer gives more room for air. all being vented out the back of the pc. my temps now at idle are 26*celcius, and load (prime95)30min 39*celcius. room temps 72*Ferinhite
amd 965 c2 140watt o/c to 3.8 ram 1600 8-8-8-19 antec 1200. h50 w/cooler.on a
MSI 790FX-GD70. nice and cool.
with this easy modification, i dropped my temps 5* steady.


----------



## BCC

should i replace the paste on my h50 with arctic silver 5, or just leave it alone?


----------



## vincentmoy

Hey guys,

I'm ready to join the club!

Got a H50 yesterday from bestbuy but it was making noise. Went to BB and exchange it and get a Antec 902. Now my i5 @ 3.6Ghz idle around 30 and Load LinX 15 runs about 60. I'm pretty happy


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vincentmoy* 
Hey guys,

I'm ready to join the club!

Got a H50 yesterday from bestbuy but it was making noise. Went to BB and exchange it and get a Antec 902. Now my i5 @ 3.6Ghz idle around 30 and Load LinX 15 runs about 60. I'm pretty happy




















































Awww man.. your rig is very inspiration!









welcome H50 family..


----------



## ToxicAdam

"my temps now at idle are 26*celcius, and load (prime95)30min 39*celcius. room temps 72*"

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BCC* 
should i replace the paste on my h50 with arctic silver 5, or just leave it alone?

Huh?! leave it be!! those are great temps man!


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
*1)* Yep but it will be stuck at full speed unless you re-route the wires to connect it at 7V. It will then be stuck at 7V though. Let me know if you need more info on how to do this. That other fan looks crazy, 115V lawl xD.









*2)* Nice find







+1!

And cheers for reps from above posters









EDITED: Drunken typos. Again.

1. I didn't install it yet and I am still figure out where Hi-Speed FAN's wires go to conmect the power supply or homemade wires as separate from PSU or Motherboard... Did you know that you are awesome help people include me. I really appericate that.

2. thanks!

Have nice weekend*


----------



## BinaryDemon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
CPU [i.e. Computer Power User] Vol 9, Iss #13
Corsair Hydro Series H50 is now FAMOUS and SPOTLIGHT in magazine, on internet such as commercial, articles, etc.

I also saw the Cosair H50 featured in the Jan 2010 issue of MaximumPC. MaximumPC does a countdown of the best tech of 2009 and the H50 is #100.


----------



## yawa

Alright figured out my issue.

Reapplied my TIM. Changed the Top Fan on my Element S to pure exhaust, swapped both fans on the radiator to push, pull, intake, and added a fan to my hard drive bays.

The results?

On idle...










Huge difference. I opened the window in my room and got it down to 23C.

My Prime load after a half hour was about 37C.

Mind you these are slightly undervolted (I have one of the weird C3's that set their stock voltage to 1.4) stock clocks, but impressive nonetheless (my room's is the room that traps the most heat in the house).


----------



## Chr0n1c

Just got one as an early Christmas gift, count me in.


----------



## Lefty67

Ok, Im going to order one when my paycheck get in.

will lapping my 945 help out more? I was thinking about it. Anyone have experience with lapped chip and H50?


----------



## vincentmoy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vincentmoy* 
Hey guys,

I'm ready to join the club!

Got a H50 yesterday from bestbuy but it was making noise. Went to BB and exchange it and get a Antec 902. Now my i5 @ 3.6Ghz idle around 30 and Load LinX 15 runs about 60. I'm pretty happy




















































I am wondering if I flip the 200mm top fan over so it be an exhaust instead of in take will help lower the temp. further or not.


----------



## yawa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lefty67* 
Ok, Im going to order one when my paycheck get in.

will lapping my 945 help out more? I was thinking about it. Anyone have experience with lapped chip and H50?

I'm curious about this myself. I'm assuming it's not possible to lap the heatsink as well?


----------



## yawa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vincentmoy* 
I am wondering if I flip the 200mm top fan over so it be an exhaust instead of in take will help lower the temp. further or not.

That's what I did to get the temps I'm getting. From asking around, I guess if you have a fairly strong top fan (or two) that you can flip around, going push/pull intake will suit you better than exhausting it out the back. I was concerned at first, but it definitely has made a huge difference in my case.

I'm not even using decent TIM for god sake I'm 26-28C's on idle or low load.

*Whoops double post, meant to add it to my other one. Can't seem to find the delete option







sorry mods.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BCC* 
ok im back and i did remove a fan and mounted just the case of the fan to the inside of the radiator. now i have a fan pulling-radiator-emtyfan shell-scythe(133.60cfm)pushing. the spacer gives more room for air. all being vented out the back of the pc. my temps now at idle are 26*celcius, and load (prime95)30min 39*celcius. room temps 72*Ferinhite
amd 965 c2 140watt o/c to 3.8 ram 1600 8-8-8-19 antec 1200. h50 w/cooler.on a
MSI 790FX-GD70. nice and cool.
with this easy modification, i dropped my temps 5* steady.









Nice job, I might try this







+rep!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BCC* 
should i replace the paste on my h50 with arctic silver 5, or just leave it alone?

You'll see a degree or 2 drop in temps probably - but like the other guy said, your temps are great already









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BinaryDemon* 
I also saw the Cosair H50 featured in the Jan 2010 issue of MaximumPC. MaximumPC does a countdown of the best tech of 2009 and the H50 is #100.

I saw this too









Quote:


Originally Posted by *yawa* 
Alright figured out my issue.

Reapplied my TIM. Changed the Top Fan on my Element S to pure exhaust, swapped both fans on the radiator to push, pull, intake, and added a fan to my hard drive bays.

The results? [..]

Huge difference. I opened the window in my room and got it down to 23C.

My Prime load after a half hour was about 37C.

Mind you these are slightly undervolted (I have one of the weird C3's that set their stock voltage to 1.4) stock clocks, but impressive nonetheless (my room's is the room that traps the most heat in the house).

Really nice temps







You must have some sweet airflow going through that thing now!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chr0n1c* 
Just got one as an early Christmas gift, count me in.

Congrats and welcome, would love to see some sexy pics









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lefty67* 
Ok, Im going to order one when my paycheck get in.

will lapping my 945 help out more? I was thinking about it. Anyone have experience with lapped chip and H50?

I don't think anyone in this thread has mentioned lapping the processor or the heatsink, though I'd love to see the results. I checked the heatsink on the H50 and it was already as flat as my steel ruler, so I left it. But lapping the processor could see a temp drop.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *vincentmoy* 
I am wondering if I flip the 200mm top fan over so it be an exhaust instead of in take will help lower the temp. further or not.

That top fan should be exhaust already







Did you already change it once already? I would leave it as exhaust personally, hot air builds in the top of the case and one of the Antecs key features is that massive fan getting rid of it all.

Also, we have incredibly similar rigs. Same cooler, same case, even the same DVD-drives I think









Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
1. I didn't install it yet and I am still figure out where Hi-Speed FAN's wires go to conmect the power supply or homemade wires as separate from PSU or Motherboard... Did you know that you are awesome help people include me. I really appericate that.

2. thanks!

Have nice weekend*

A pleasure to help!









I would just get a fan controller if you're going for a really highspeed fan, there was a guide around somewhere for wiring up 4-pin fans to PSU+Motherboard, I think it was in the watercooling section for radiator fan control. But I cant find it


----------



## skorpio

A different way to install ...







.And losing your factory warranty.









Attachment 132953

Tubes 8-6mm.

Attachment 132956

*Only* need unscrew the two screws to remove cover and place the pump tubes.

Attachment 132957 Attachment 132958

Filled with ethylene glycol and deionized water (antifreeze) to prevent galvanic corrosion (aluminum radiator and copper block:swearing







, as before, but in a different color







.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *skorpio* 
a different way to install ...







.and losing your factory warranty.









Attachment 132953

tubes 8-6mm.

Attachment 132956

*only* need unscrew the two screws to remove cover and place the pump tubes.

Attachment 132957 Attachment 132958

filled with ethylene glycol and deionized water (antifreeze) to prevent galvanic corrosion (aluminum radiator and copper block:swearing







, as before, but in a different color :d.

holy *****, champion! You are first modded h50!!

Rep+


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *XiZeL* 
found what the problem is... seems some more recente dual and quads have some core temp sensor locked.... this only happens in idle, in load both cores are at the same tempos just one of my cores is locked at 39ÂºC

Well, isnt that wierd. I wonder why they did that? Any way to unlock??

Im glad thats sorted. You could have slowly gone insane... with the rest of us, trying to figure out the issue


----------



## yawa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *skorpio* 
A different way to install ...







.And losing your factory warranty.









Attachment 132953

Tubes 8-6mm.

Attachment 132956

*Only* need unscrew the two screws to remove cover and place the pump tubes.

Attachment 132957 Attachment 132958

Filled with ethylene glycol and deionized water (antifreeze) to prevent galvanic corrosion (aluminum radiator and copper block:swearing







, as before, but in a different color







.


Yeah Your getting rep for that.

You...you, earned it.


----------



## candy_van

Well I got my new build together (minus gaming GPU / sound card), and while it looks great I can't say I'm so happy with the results of this H50 thus far.
BIOS reads i5 750 @ ~42c (stock clocks / settings); I have 2x 70CFM Yate Loons push/pull on rad drawing air from outside as recommended









Had pump connected to CPU fan header w/ fan control off (which had worse results than connecting right to PSU).
Only other thing I can think of would be to reseat / reapply TIM, but I used up the last bit during installation so I'll have to order more.


----------



## BCC

whats your room temps? if its hot in the room you'll have higher temps!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *skorpio* 
A different way to install ...







.And losing your factory warranty.








Filled with ethylene glycol and deionized water (antifreeze) to prevent galvanic corrosion (aluminum radiator and copper block:swearing







, as before, but in a different color







.

Well done! Let us know how that goes please... you may have started something with this.









Rep for the the mod. Excellent <monty burns voice>


----------



## killerxx7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *skorpio* 
A different way to install ...







.And losing your factory warranty.









Attachment 132953

Tubes 8-6mm.

Attachment 132956

*Only* need unscrew the two screws to remove cover and place the pump tubes.

Attachment 132957 Attachment 132958

Filled with ethylene glycol and deionized water (antifreeze) to prevent galvanic corrosion (aluminum radiator and copper block:swearing







, as before, but in a different color







.

What size tubing did you use and haw did you fill it back up again after?


----------



## candy_van

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BCC* 
whats your room temps? if its hot in the room you'll have higher temps!

Not warm; winter here in NJ and my rooms approx ~20c


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *candy_van* 
Well I got my new build together (minus gaming GPU / sound card), and while it looks great I can't say I'm so happy with the results of this H50 thus far.
BIOS reads i5 750 @ ~42c (stock clocks / settings); I have 2x 70CFM Yate Loons push/pull on rad drawing air from outside as recommended









Had pump connected to CPU fan header w/ fan control off (which had worse results than connecting right to PSU).
Only other thing I can think of would be to reseat / reapply TIM, but I used up the last bit during installation so I'll have to order more.

Have to agree - your temps aint that flash.
1) Try exausting your fans
2) Reseat the pump head - this is the trickiest part. I and most people have found better results when we have tried a couple of reseats.

Good luck


----------



## BCC

that seems a little high (your cpu temps) im in New York and i idle at 28* at 3.8, i did have it o/c to 4gig but i moved it down, cuz im messing with other settings in ram. just playing around in the bios lol. i see you mounted it to the front of your pc. i wouldn't think that would have any effect, but you never can tell? try to mount it to the back on a push/pull venting out and see. who knows right?


----------



## unikko




----------



## BCC

Unikko show some temps








nice color







same as mine in color


----------



## unikko




----------



## Ryanb213

What you guys think of putting this on my H50? I want something that will keep me cool under load, but is REALLY quiet. I have the stock h50 fan @ 650RPM's and it keeps me cool enough, but id like a little lower temps


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ryanb213* 
What you guys think of putting this on my H50? I want something that will keep me cool under load, but is REALLY quiet. I have the stock h50 fan @ 650RPM's and it keeps me cool enough, but id like a little lower temps

I am assuming you are *not* going to use a push/pull configuration?

If you are happy with your temps @ 650 rpm, that fan should be okay.

I note my corsair stock sits @ 900 rpm and goes to 1200 rpm under load. Just note your load temps and the fan's rpm... it may struggle for long load durations.


----------



## Ryanb213

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
I am assuming you are *not* going to use a push/pull configuration?

If you are happy with your temps @ 650 rpm, that fan should be okay.

I note my corsair stock sits @ 900 rpm and goes to 1200 rpm under load. Just note your load temps and the fan's rpm... it may struggle for long load durations.

nope, single fan only. really im wondering if i should use this fan or another one, money is no object. (for the fan, im willing to spend $25 on one)


----------



## unikko

YouTube- Antec Nine Hundred Two


----------



## Tragedies

Gotta order me one of these ^^


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ryanb213*


nope, single fan only. really im wondering if i should use this fan or another one, money is no object. (for the fan, im willing to spend $25 on one)


Since this is your only fan for cooling your rad, you will want something that can push the air through and have high static pressure. Im not convinced this fan will cut it for long durations at load.

There is a guy on this thread called *ccomputertek*. He appears to be up on all things to do with fans... Id suggest you PM him and ask his opinion.

Hope this helps.


----------



## Killhouse

Sethy666 keeping on top of things as always









There are some great guides around for fan choices on radiators, but essentially you're looking for high static pressure fans.

Seeing some impressive photos and temperatures around, sorry I dont have time to go through them all right now.

+++ rep to Skorpio though, fantastic job, love what you've done. I'm going to permalink your post to the front page.


----------



## ccomputertek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


There is a guy on this thread called *ccomputertek*. He appears to be up on all things to do with fans... Id suggest you PM him and ask his opinion.

Hope this helps.



Some helpful hints:

RPM = CFM = static pressure, they all go togeather, you can't not have one and expect the other.

Also I been reading in other places that for AMD owners at least, with the brackets you need to order from Corsair for the OEM boxed version of the H50, you don't even need to change the backplate, just use the one that comes on your motherboard from the factory.Doing it this way is supposed to have better contact with CPU and cold plate, because the little legs are a bit shorter than the back plate that Corsair ships to you with the AMD bracket kit.The screw thread and everything else is identicle to the stock backplate on the motherboards supposidly, people say they did it with no problems, motherboard still has to be removed though, because when you take the screws out of the AM3 retention bracket, the backplate then comes loose.

The plastic bracket that you have to order if you did not get AM3 brackets, is alot better than the new metal ones.

So Corsair did not put these brackets in the box because they were not happy with what they currently had ( the plastic I guess ) but now that everyone saw the buff heavy duty high strengh plastic ones, they don't want the metal ones, they hate the metal brackets............. what a MESS ! ! ! !

Hopefully when you go to Corsair to order brackets, you can still get the older style plastic and they won''t send the new metal ones.....

Soooooo take off your stock backplate and match it up to the one Corsair gives you, if it's the same and the legs appear a smidge shorter, use that then, because with the plastic bracket and spring loaded, much better fit.... while not compressing too much, but much better than the metal brackets.

That is all...........


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ccomputertek*


Some helpful hints:
RPM = CFM = static pressure, they all go togeather, you can't not have one and expect the other.


Careful, lots of fans have very high CFM/RPM ratio but have very low static pressure. The scythe slipstreams for example, have very high CFM but are very weak on heatsinks or radiators due to their low static pressure. The Noctua NF-P12 on the other hand, has low CFM/RPM ratio (and also low CFM) but is significantly better for static pressure.


----------



## ccomputertek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ccomputertek* 

RPM = CFM = static pressure, they all go togeather, you can't not have one and expect the other.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Careful, lots of fans have very high CFM/RPM ratio but have very low static pressure. The scythe slipstreams for example, have very high CFM but are very weak on heatsinks or radiators due to their low static pressure. The Noctua NF-P12 on the other hand, has low CFM/RPM ratio (and also low CFM) but is significantly better for static pressure.

I was only thinking about the fans everyone agrees are the best, like Panasonic Panaflo's and Sanyo San ace's...... I don't know anything about the cheaper fans, I never even look at those or consider things like coolermaster fans or Noctua, even though some might think their ok to use.

There is only 2 brands of fans I look at, and for those at lease RPM = CFM = static pressure, they all go togeather, you can't not have one and expect the other ..... will hold truth.

these brands don't have different models with different narrower fans blades, they pretty much use the same fan blades across their models, only varience is RPM across the different model #'s


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ccomputertek* 
I was only thinking about the fans everyone agrees are the best, like Panasonic Panaflo's and Sanyo San ace's...... I don't know anything about the cheaper fans, I never even look at those or consider things like coolermaster fans or Noctua, even though some might think their ok to use.

There is only 2 brands of fans I look at, and for those at lease RPM = CFM = static pressure, they all go togeather, you can't not have one and expect the other ..... will hold truth.

I disagree, to a certain extent it holds true simply because really high CFM is generated by a more powerful fan, and a more powerful fan will have high static pressure. But even the really high power fans have huge variations in static pressure because of their fin design.

I agree though, that the panaflos and sanyo san aces are great fans. Though any 38mm fan is innately going to have high static pressure.


----------



## ccomputertek

The panaflo's use the same high pitch blades across all their models and all have a great static pressure ratio, just the fan speed / CFM and static pressure vary across the models, not the blade pitch, which is proven.

San ace also sticks with a proven blade pitch, the only difference across the model are the motor speed = CFM and static pressure.....

But for given RPM they still have proven static pressure compared to other cheaper brands.they don't make 3 blade or narrow blade or any other silly combo across their different models.


----------



## Killhouse

Yes, but between the companies there are differences in CFM/Static pressure ratio. Simply because 2 fans (from different companies) have the same CFM doesent mean theyre going to have the same static pressure. Looking for high CFM fans is a good way to find _powerful_ fans and will lead you to a higher static pressure, but does not necessarily mean that every fan with a high CFM has a high static pressure. With the fans that you mentioned it is the case that their static pressure is high, but it doesent scale with their CFM values.

RPM =/=> CFM =/=> Static pressure, *BUT it is a good guideline.*
I hope that cleared things up.


----------



## ccomputertek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Yes, but between the companies there are differences in CFM/Static pressure ratio. Simply because 2 fans (from different companies) have the same CFM doesent mean theyre going to have the same static pressure. Looking for high CFM fans is a good way to find _powerful_ fans and will lead you to a higher static pressure, but does not necessarily mean that every fan with a high CFM has a high static pressure. With the fans that you mentioned it is the case that their static pressure is high, but it doesent scale with their CFM values.

RPM =/=> CFM =/=> Static pressure, *BUT it is a good guideline.*
I hope that cleared things up.

Fair enough, I have learned nothing though and I never needed things cleared up.We only buy the best fans here, we don't second guess..

If you know of a fan that puts out enough static pressure @ 800 RPM, then point me in that direction, if you want to help.There is no fan that will put out @ low RPM, is basically what i'm saying to these guys who ask can I run my fan low @ 800 RPM and will it keep my CPU cool enough...... No it will not, at least not with the setup we're discussing here.

even panaflo or san ace will not be suffient @ 800 RPM while gaming.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ccomputertek* 
.There is no fan that will put out @ low RPM, is basically what i'm saying to these guys who ask can I run my fan low @ 800 RPM and will it keep my CPU cool enough......will not be suffient @ 800 RPM while gaming.

@ Ryanb213... I think you have an answer.

Now Killhouse & ccomputertek , be nice. We are all trying to help each other out here


----------



## ccomputertek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 

Now Killhouse & ccomputertek , be nice. We are all trying to help each other out here









Of course..


----------



## Meekay

Just picked it up this Friday to replace my zalman and boy do I love this one.

i'll be posting pics tomorrow


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Sethy666 keeping on top of things as always









There are some great guides around for fan choices on radiators, but essentially you're looking for high static pressure fans.

Seeing some impressive photos and temperatures around, sorry I dont have time to go through them all right now.

+++ rep to Skorpio though, fantastic job, love what you've done. I'm going to permalink your post to the front page.









Hey dude,,, just noticed you've got a rep flame. Congrats! Well done.


----------



## ccomputertek

Also wattage.. one 2000 RPM fan might be 3 watts, the other may be 6 watts.The 6 watts will help prevent the fan from slowing down from being so close to an object like the radiator.Using an empty 120 fan that you cut the motor out of and just have the frame are good too for a spacer, gets rid of the dead spot in all fans and has a nice square airflo after that, with the fan so close to the radiator it will have a more round air pattern with a dead spot in the middle, with a spacer the airflow will be the full square of the radiator... they actually make something special for this, I think it's called an ice box, but you can cut out the motor and the 3 arms of an old fan and just use that, if you have room enough to add a spacer between the RAD and push fan.


----------



## Sethy666

@ ccomputertek

You very much sound like you know your stuff. Are you working in computers or is this a massive, all-consuming hobby?


----------



## ccomputertek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
@ ccomputertek

Are you working in computers or is this a massive, all-consuming hobby?

Both and I have alot of free time that I spend online to research all the sites about this stuff.Thats all I do all day and night mostly.When I study any particular thing, I allways become an expert on the subject.

I'm also into radio control gas cars, and have become a well known expert on them as well.No one can ever tell why my cars are so much faster than other, even if someone has the same engine, I have all my little secrets.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ccomputertek* 
Both and I have alot of free time that I spend online to research all the sites about this stuff.Thats all I do all day and night mostly.When I study any particular thing, I allways become an expert on the subject.

I'm also into radio control gas cars, and have become a well known expert on them as well.No one can ever tell why my cars are so much faster than other, even if someone has the same engine, I have all my little secrets.

Hmmm... a perfectionist (said in the nicest possible way). Good to know that we have you here then


----------



## ccomputertek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Hmmm... a perfectionist (said in the nicest possible way). Good to know that we have you here then










Yes, a perfectionist to a fault...... we don't f*ck around here, every thing is serious business.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ccomputertek* 
Yes, a perfectionist to a fault...... we don't f*ck around here, every thing is serious business.

I trust you forgot the smiley at the end of that...


----------



## Sethy666

Im sure its been mentioned before and Ive only just done this...

In BIOS, set your pump and rad fan to full (disable auto fan control), enable your alarms for fan failure and CPU temp failsafe.

Ive noticed a full 4c drop between having the bios controlling the fans / pump and having them at 100% (idle).

Obvious but hey, I forgot in all the excitement


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
@ Ryanb213... I think you have an answer.

Now Killhouse & ccomputertek , be nice. We are all trying to help each other out here



















Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Hey dude,,, just noticed you've got a rep flame. Congrats! Well done.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Im sure its been mentioned before and Ive only just done this...

In BIOS, set your pump and rad fan to full (disable auto fan control), enable your alarms for fan failure and CPU temp failsafe.

Ive noticed a full 4c drop between having the bios controlling the fans / pump and having them at 100% (idle).

Obvious but hey, I forgot in all the excitement









Thanks, mostly thanks to this thread I think
















just moved home and my bedroom is freezing, I'm getting 28-30C load. Im case-modding with gloves on


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
















just moved home and my bedroom is freezing, I'm getting 28-30C load. Im case-modding with gloves on









Hey, Im sitting here in shorts, dripping sweat... *I HATE SUMMER!*

Most of all, I hate dripping sweat onto my mobo when Im working on it <lol>


----------



## catalyst

hey dudes, finally got my H50 installed last night! went to B&Q and picked up some 3x30mm machine screws for the Push/Pull fan config.
temps are looking good, got to wait for the As5 to bed in first though.
@ 3.2Ghz, stock voltage - idle 28/29 load 47/49









pic is just after installing. so i need to re-route some cables, but over all im pleased with my H50

killhouse, consider this my application for membership please


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *catalyst*


killhouse, consider this my application for membership please










Very nice


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Hey, Im sitting here in shorts, dripping sweat...* I HATE SUMMER!*

Most of all, I hate dripping sweat onto my mobo when Im working on it <lol>


Sitting here in South Africa, 35 deg case temp with a badly overheating 8800GTS


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
Sitting here in South Africa, 35 deg case temp with a badly overheating 8800GTS









Hey... I love the RSA! My wife is from there and visited last Spring. The in-laws are from Cape Town, where do you hail?

I sympathise, this heat is a bugger!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *catalyst* 
hey dudes, finally got my H50 installed last night! went to B&Q and picked up some 3x30mm machine screws for the Push/Pull fan config.
temps are looking good, got to wait for the As5 to bed in first though.
@ 3.2Ghz, stock voltage - idle 28/29 load 47/49









pic is just after installing. so i need to re-route some cables, but over all im pleased with my H50

killhouse, consider this my application for membership please









Nice setup... like the ram!


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Hey... I love the RSA! My wife is from there and visited last Spring. The in-laws are from Cape Town, where do you hail?

I sympathise, this heat is a bugger!


Cape Town too (well more towards the northern suburbs). Some of my family emigrated to Oz a few years back. Seems many people does that.

Anyways, I re-arranged my fans a bit, and placed the case on some 2 inch thick manuals, dropped 3 degrees (32) for now which is ok for now. The graphics card is still hot but better now, was idling at 66 deg, now down to 57, but only a 2 degree drop in ambient (28 deg).

Getting my H50 tomorrow.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BinaryDemon*


I also saw the Cosair H50 featured in the Jan 2010 issue of MaximumPC. MaximumPC does a countdown of the best tech of 2009 and the H50 is #100.


Binary, Really? I did not know that.. I will check it out at bookstore by this week..









Quote:



Originally Posted by *ccomputertek*


Both and I have alot of free time that I spend online to research all the sites about this stuff.Thats all I do all day and night mostly.When I study any particular thing, I allways become an expert on the subject.

*I'm also into radio control gas cars, and have become a well known expert on them as well.No one can ever tell why my cars are so much faster than other, even if someone has the same engine, I have all my little secrets*.


Tek, Ha Ha I don't know that you are a radio control gas car.. For me, I am a radio control electric car, *My built RC Cars* <click..

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skorpio*


A different way to install ...







.And losing your factory warranty.









Attachment 132953

Tubes 8-6mm.

Attachment 132956

*Only* need unscrew the two screws to remove cover and place the pump tubes.

Attachment 132957 Attachment 132958

Filled with ethylene glycol and deionized water (antifreeze) to prevent galvanic corrosion (aluminum radiator and copper block:swearing







, as before, but in a different color







.


You once posted this. I am wondering where you are? people would like to know how it turn out for temps, etc?

we love to hear from you. Anyway I really consider to get another H50 for the Mod tube, pretty soon.


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


Anyway I really consider to get another H50 for the Mod tube, pretty soon.


I know how you feel. I want to add a 240mm rad... it would be a fun little mod and the most compelling part is the fact the h50 is on sale at ZZF for $55 AR.

hmmm


----------



## skorpio

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


You once posted this. I am wondering where you are? people would like to know how it turn out for temps, etc?

we love to hear from you. Anyway I really consider to get another H50 for the Mod tube, pretty soon.


When finalize the assembly of the computer (I'm waiting for the motherboard), I tell you how are the temperatures. and make a picture that you may see the configuration of the case.


----------



## Tragedies

Just ordered mine, looking forward to the temp changes ^^


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tragedies*


Just ordered mine, looking forward to the temp changes ^^


Your gonna love it! I know I do


----------



## hitman1985

mine finally up and running


----------



## Tragedies

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Your gonna love it! I know I do









I must ask though, there is no chance of leaks correct? Always have been afraid of water cooling.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tragedies* 
I must ask though, there is no chance of leaks correct? Always have been afraid of water cooling.

No chance, even if it does Corsair will replace any damaged equipment. Some guy on here managed to scar his motherboard on installation, and corsair sent him a new motherboard


----------



## alc0hol

This thread grew fast as hell. I remember looking for a H50 owners club after I bought mine in the beginning of November.

Great cooler, its affordable, easy to setup, and doesn't feel like a burden on your motherboard (I'm looking at you Mugen 2).

Add me if you like.


----------



## r31ncarnat3d

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
No chance, even if it does Corsair will replace any damaged equipment. Some guy on here managed to scar his motherboard on installation, and corsair sent him a new motherboard









I wonder...

Ah, I kid


----------



## ntuason

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
No chance, even if it does Corsair will replace any damaged equipment. Some guy on here managed to scar his motherboard on installation, and corsair sent him a new motherboard









What? Was it the same mobo or a better one?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DorkSterr* 
What? Was it the same mobo or a better one?

It was the same one, it was an ASUS board if I remember correctly... Cant find the thread now









Quote:


Originally Posted by *alc0hol* 
This thread grew fast as hell. I remember looking for a H50 owners club after I bought mine in the beginning of November.

Great cooler, its affordable, easy to setup, and doesn't feel like a burden on your motherboard (I'm looking at you Mugen 2).

Add me if you like.

I know, I can hardly keep up







Added!


----------



## r31ncarnat3d

By the way, Killhouse, how come you didn't add me to the member list yet? I thought you loved me!


----------



## Killhouse

My bad, must have missed you!







:


----------



## catalyst

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
It was the same one, it was an ASUS board if I remember correctly... Cant find the thread now









was this the thread dude?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *catalyst* 
was this the thread dude?









Thanks, yeah he used the wrong screws and somehow killed his motherboard







but Corsair replaced his motherboard.

Thanks for the find, have a rep


----------



## Waterox

OK ladies and gentlemen , I'm officially a H50 owner.


















I'm using this fan for exhaust from inside to outside. (Enermax Apollish blue). I can't hear a thing except my harddrive now.










In the dark, (very pleased







)









My CPU's temp is at 30-31C with Corsair's stock thermal paste. I have some MX-2 but it's like 2 years old. I threw it away didn't want to take a chance with that.

There are a couple of negatives though: The Enermax Apollish fan totally ignore the system bios, which I disabled fan control to get everything running at 100%. Everything else is pretty much running at its max but the pimp fan is running at its low 745 rpm. It has a heat sensor which acts as its brain only turn up to 1700 rpm when it detects heat







. Still my idle temp is 30C and I haven't gotten to overclocking yet.

Second negative is: My side fan was getting in the way of the new push/pull fans so I couldn't close my side panel. I had modify my side panel fan from inside to outside.







. Do mind the size of the new fans that might get in the way, I had to learn it the hard way.









Overall I'm happy!







Love my new temperature and pimping new look.


----------



## Killhouse

VERY nice waterox, and welcome to the club. Love the photos, that fan looks awesome


----------



## killerxx7

Looks nice man








I love how silent my rig is now after ditching that true with thouse nasty load fans to keep my old Q6600 cool.
I also can only hear my hdds and that's only coz i have no side on my rig


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killerxx7*


Looks nice man








I love how silent my rig is now after ditching that true with thouse nasty load fans to keep my old Q6600 cool.
I also can only hear my hdds and that's only coz i have no side on my rig










Noise is yet another advantage of the H50 over those air-monsters







Glad you're enjoying it.

In 59 pages of thread I've only seen one person who wasnt satisfied with this cooler, and we havnt heard from him since we told him to reseat it. I think Corsair have really cracked it with this all-in-one unit.


----------



## sacmo77

Does the radiator have to go from top the bottum, does it matter?

Reason I ask is because I have mine going from side to side.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sacmo77* 
Does the radiator have to go from top the bottum, does it matter?

Reason I ask is because I have mine going from side to side.

It doesent matter


----------



## sacmo77

Is there a way to tell what RPM im running the pump at and is there a sure fire way to make sure it is working ? maybe a noise or a type of sound it makes when working ?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sacmo77* 
Is there a way to tell what RPM im running the pump at and is there a sure fire way to make sure it is working ? maybe a noise or a type of sound it makes when working ?

Sometimes you'll hear a little gurgle as it starts up. Or you can look in BIOS or SpeedFan - if you've plugged your pump into a header like CASE_FAN or PSU_FAN then your BIOS should tell you what RPM it's running at. I think around 750 RPM is normal.

EDIT: If youre worried about the pump failing you can set an auto-shutdown in your BIOS, so that the computer will turn off if it hits a critical temperature that you set. I have mine set at 57C.


----------



## sacmo77

well im looking at the cpu fan 0 and it say 1650 rpm, not sure if thats the pump though.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sacmo77* 
well im looking at the cpu fan 0 and it say 1650 rpm, not sure if thats the pump though.

Thats probably the fan, where have you plugged your pump in?


----------



## sacmo77

Nevermind, Its working good, when i open my case and put my ear inside I can hear it working just fine.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sacmo77* 
Nevermind, Its working good, when i open my case and put my ear inside I can hear it working just fine.

Enjoy


----------



## sacmo77

By the way, How do I join the club ?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sacmo77* 
By the way, How do I join the club ?

Added


----------



## sacmo77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Added









Thank you very much!


----------



## catalyst

guys, iv still got 6 3x30mm machine screws if anybody`s needing them? got them in a pack of 10 from B&Q but only needed 4.
these are zinc plated, slot head.
drop me a pm if your intrested








consider this an in club freebie


----------



## XiZeL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *catalyst* 
guys, iv still got 6 3x30mm machine screws if anybody`s needing them? got them in a pack of 10 from B&Q but only needed 4.
these are zinc plated, slot head.
drop me a pm if your intrested








consider this an in club freebie









i cant find those here in Portugal







US standard il be going to France for the holidays maybe il have some luck there


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *XiZeL* 
i cant find those here in Portugal







US standard il be going to France for the holidays maybe il have some luck there

http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/

These guys have everything you'll need, they ship to Europe for a VERY reasonable price too.

1 British pound = 1.109 Euros right now FYI.


----------



## catalyst

Quote:


Originally Posted by *XiZeL* 
i cant find those here in Portugal







US standard il be going to France for the holidays maybe il have some luck there

if you google -
3x30mm machine screw
or
3/16" x 1 1/4" machine screw

your bound to find them.
iv got another 6 black hex drive screws comming in the mail at some point.
i ordered them 2 weeks ago but there was a problem at the supplier. when those come in i`ll post another freebie


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *catalyst* 
if you google -
3x30mm machine screw
or
3/16" x 1 1/4" machine screw

your bound to find them.
iv got another 6 black hex drive screws comming in the mail at some point.
i ordered them 2 weeks ago but there was a problem at the supplier. when those come in i`ll post another freebie










Quote:


Originally Posted by *Corsair Official FAQ*
Q: I want to run push/pull, what screws will I need for a second fan?
A: The screw thread and length are 6 x 32 x 1 1/4"

3x30mm machine screw, also known as "M3" will probably not be as good, if you can fit them in, for attatching a second fan.

http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/unc_cap_screws.htm
Scroll down to 6-32 1 1/4"
Â£1 for 5 with Â£1.50 shipping to Europe


----------



## catalyst

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
3x30mm machine screw, also known as "M3" will probably not be as good, if you can fit them in, for attatching a second fan.

http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/unc_cap_screws.htm
Scroll down to 6-32 1 1/4"
Â£1 for 5 with Â£1.50 shipping to Europe









they fit very well, i used them for the case side, and no washer is needed as the case acts as a washer, so the 30mm screw insures that you dont hit the rad with the screw


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *catalyst* 
they fit very well, i used them for the case side, and no washer is needed as the case acts as a washer, so the 30mm screw insures that you dont hit the rad with the screw









Ok, so M3 will fit too, but I still recommend getting 6-32 if you have the choice


----------



## catalyst

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Ok, so M3 will fit too, but I still recommend getting 6-32 if you have the choice









i would to. the set of screws that i have in the mail are the exact size. i just got really inpatient the other day and wanted my H50 up and running


----------



## looser101

A few pics of my front mounted Corsair H50:





















































.
.
***** MORE INFO HERE *****
.
.
.


----------



## Killhouse

Thats a cool front-mount looser101, but you're not gaining anything from putting 2 fans in series like that


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Thats a cool front-mount looser101, but you're not gaining anything from putting 2 fans in series like that









It's a spacer.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
It's a spacer.
















Awesome then!


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 














Awesome then!

Linky to full disclosure, LOL.


----------



## the_milk_man

@loser101:

nice push/pull and fan shrouds.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *the_milk_man*


@loser101:

nice push/pull and fan shrouds.


Thanks. Lots of room for all that when you mount it up front.


----------



## Willhemmens

Ok, got the tubing today, thought i might aswell get on with the mod.









This is the 2M of tubing i got
 

with the end in

 

after 3-4 hours running out of the system with no leaks found, i put it in.

 

 

im just running with the standard fluid atm but i will be getting some decent stuff in the future.


----------



## Killhouse

Excellent job Willhemmens! +rep









What fluid are you using there? is it the original?


----------



## opty165

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Ok, got the tubing today, thought i might aswell get on with the mod.









This is the 2M of tubing i got
 

with the end in

 

after 3-4 hours running out of the system with no leaks found, i put it in.

 

 

im just running with the standard fluid atm but i will be getting some decent stuff in the future.


Someone needs to post a work log of this. I want to do it, but i would need to see detailed pics of how ppl did theres lol


----------



## GAMERIG

I took a picture from my Blackberry 8900:








Like thats what BinaryDemon's post #515 had mentioned "I also saw the Cosair H50 featured in the Jan 2010 issue of MaximumPC".









Rep+









Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


I know how you feel. I want to add a 240mm rad... it would be a fun little mod and the most compelling part is the fact the h50 is on sale at ZZF for $55 AR.

hmmm


Man, Yeah I didn't hear anything from skopio and his modded h50's result as temp, etc. I am wondering if he just show it as get an idea but never take a test and result? but i could be wrong.. I would like to experiment the CH50 with mod tube and see what outcome with the H50's temps asap as let this club know. Anyway I expect to get another H50 for MOD tube, next month.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skorpio*


When finalize the assembly of the computer (I'm waiting for the motherboard), I tell you how are the temperatures. and make a picture that you may see the configuration of the case.


Ahh, I see. we can't wait to hear from you, asap. otherwise I will get another one for mod tube, result to share with this H50 Owner Club.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Ok, got the tubing today, thought i might aswell get on with the mod.









This is the 2M of tubing i got
 

with the end in

 

after 3-4 hours running out of the system with no leaks found, i put it in.

 

 

im just running with the standard fluid atm but i will be getting some decent stuff in the future.


AWESOME..... Ahh YOU ARE SECOND PERSON WHO MODDED H50 IN this forum.. I am glad to see some modified their H50 here.

This club will love you!

REP+


----------



## XiZeL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/

These guys have everything you'll need, they ship to Europe for a VERY reasonable price too.

1 British pound = 1.109 Euros right now FYI.

big thanks, il get some ordered once mi back from vacation also they have to have a flat head because if not i cant close my antec P183 case


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Excellent job Willhemmens! +rep









What fluid are you using there? is it the original?

Yeah, im just using the origanal stuff at the moment, will get me soem UV blue later.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *opty165* 
Someone needs to post a work log of this. I want to do it, but i would need to see detailed pics of how ppl did theres lol

Its quite easy to do. Sadly, i didnt take any photo's of how i did it because its very simple, if you want me to take some i will.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
AWESOME..... Ahh YOU ARE SECOND PERSON WHO MODDED H50 IN this forum.. I am glad to see some modified their H50 here.

This club will love you!

REP+









Thanks, took a little while to do but it was worth it!


----------



## GAMERIG

@ Willhemmens,

How did you find tube? you just buy it from any store or order it online? So, can you tell me what the parts and equpiments I need for H50 MOD?

I will have other question for you later..


----------



## Chr0n1c

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Its quite easy to do. Sadly, i didnt take any photo's of how i did it because its very simple, if you want me to take some i will.

I would like to see how it's done, and also how you kept from losing the fluid.

Excellent job, looks very pro!







+1

Any chance on a guide from you or anybody in this thread? List of dimensions OD and ID, proper sized barbs and junk.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
@ Willhemmens,

How did you find tube? you just buy it from any store or order it online? So, can you tell me what the parts and equpiments I need for H50 MOD?

I will have other question for you later..









I got my tubing from a small hardware store, near me. Its just normal, nothing special PVC tubing. Im sure you could get better quality stuff with thicker walls but this was 40p per meter so i wasnt complianing.

The tools used:
Cross/Philips head screw driver
Knife


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chr0n1c* 
I would like to see how it's done, and also how you kept from losing the fluid.

Excellent job, looks very pro!







+1

Any chance on a guide from you or anybody in this thread? List of dimensions OD and ID, proper sized barbs and junk.

looks like im going to have to make a thread on this, with plenty of photo's!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
looks like im going to have to make a thread on this, with plenty of photo's!

Please do!


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
I got my tubing from a small hardware store, near me. Its just normal, nothing special PVC tubing. Im sure you could get better quality stuff with thicker walls but this was 40p per meter so i wasnt complianing.

The tools used:
Cross/Philips head screw driver
Knife

Dude, Ahh I got it.. Hardware store? I can get tube from LOWE or HOME DEPOT?

what size and mm of Tubes for H50 ? and what kind of specified Liquid for water cooler?

what do you mean "thicker walls" by that?


----------



## leppie

Add me too, please.

Got mine today. Very happy indeed.

Got a few pics on mobile, but cant find USB cable!


----------



## Willhemmens

My little guilds here: http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post7909191

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
Dude, Ahh I got it.. Hardware store? I can get tube from LOWE or HOME DEPOT?

what size and mm of Tubes for H50 ? and what kind of specified Liquid for water cooler?

what do you mean "thicker walls" by that?

Im not sure what kind of thing LOWE or HOME DEPOT sell but im sure they should sell PVC tubing. My tubing is 8mm ID and 10mm OD.

You can get thicker walled tubing that doesnt kink so easy.


----------



## CrazyLegs19

Looks like this is the proper place for this question:

I'm hoping to find an H50 under the xmas tree this year. What's everyone's opinion on the pre-applied thermal material. Is everyone scraping it off and applying their own? Need to know because I'm out of AS5, so I'll have to order it and I'd like to have it on hand when (if) I get to tinker with the H50 on xmas day.

Thanks


----------



## GAMERIG

I am fan of facebook. anyway I found the infomation on *facebook Corsair Memory*.

*Corsair Cooling™ Hydro Series H50 Push-Pull Performance Guide*



















Quote:

blog.corsair.com
Corsair launched the Hydro Series H50 high-performance CPU cooler in June 2009, and since then it has taken the cooling market by storm. It has won worldwide critical acclaim for its superior cooling performance, quiet operation, and ease of use. ...


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CrazyLegs19* 
Looks like this is the proper place for this question:

I'm hoping to find an H50 under the xmas tree this year. What's everyone's opinion on the pre-applied thermal material. Is everyone scraping it off and applying their own? Need to know because I'm out of AS5, so I'll have to order it and I'd like to have it on hand when (if) I get to tinker with the H50 on xmas day.

Thanks

Its fine if you dont plan on remounting but if you do plan on remountinga few times in the near future your going to want to use AS5.


----------



## Chr0n1c

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CrazyLegs19* 
Looks like this is the proper place for this question:

I'm hoping to find an H50 under the xmas tree this year. What's everyone's opinion on the pre-applied thermal material. Is everyone scraping it off and applying their own? Need to know because I'm out of AS5, so I'll have to order it and I'd like to have it on hand when (if) I get to tinker with the H50 on xmas day.

Thanks

Yeah a few of us on here, myself and Killhouse have experienced a slight difference of 3-5 degrees C, lower of course with new thermal compound.


----------



## XiZeL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
I am fan of facebook. anyway I found the infomation on *facebook Corsair Memory*.

*Corsair Coolingâ„¢ Hydro Series H50 Push-Pull Performance Guide*



















yep saw that also


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CrazyLegs19* 
Looks like this is the proper place for this question:

I'm hoping to find an H50 under the xmas tree this year. What's everyone's opinion on the pre-applied thermal material. Is everyone scraping it off and applying their own? Need to know because I'm out of AS5, so I'll have to order it and I'd like to have it on hand when (if) I get to tinker with the H50 on xmas day.

Thanks

I hope Santa is good to you...

Ive started using MX 3 over AS5. Its a preference thing - I like to place my own TIM.

You don't need to 'scrap' the pre-applied TIM off, just rub it off with alcohol and a lint free cloth - its fairly soft, its not much work.

I have found using alco swabs is usefully (the swabs doctors use to prep skin before an injection). I get them from work but I'm sure you can pick up a box of 100 at a chemist or drug-store.


----------



## Killhouse

MX3 is nice, I noticed a temp drop. I think it's the cheapest 2C drop you'll get


----------



## Waterox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
MX3 is nice, I noticed a temp drop. I think it's the cheapest 2C drop you'll get









lol what's the best though? disregard the price.


----------



## Killhouse

MX3 is pretty much the best right now as far as I know.


----------



## unikko

ive used both the ac5 and the mx3(currently using) and theres no difference in temperature ...but u do get about a 2C drop in temps if you use use it and not the preapplied paste so definitely pick one up


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Waterox* 
lol what's the best though? disregard the price.

The "best" is subjective and everyone is going to give you their opinion.

Ive just started using MX 3 over AS5 so I dont really have much history with it yet.

There are heaps of comparison tests to google out there.


----------



## Icekilla

Is it possible to use the H50 with a push/pull setup, using high performance fans, and achieve 4GHZ with an i7 920, with HT on having safe temperatures? or it would be better to use a swiftech apex kit in this case?


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


My little guilds here: http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post7909191

Im not sure what kind of thing LOWE or HOME DEPOT sell but im sure they should sell PVC tubing. My tubing is 8mm ID and 10mm OD.

You can get thicker walled tubing that doesnt kink so easy.


I bought the Clear PVC Tube from LOWE, it is 9.53mm OD x 6.35mm ID as version of 3/8in. X 1/4in. so will it fit on them?


----------



## Metal425

I'm going to receive the H50 on X-Mas day, so count me in when it's the 25th.


----------



## Killhouse

I think we're going to get a lot of pictures in this thread for Christmas


----------



## Tragedies

Got mine today, OCed my i7 920 D0 to 4.2 Ghz @ 1.3500v and idle temps were between 38-40 C and Max load temps running Linx 20 runs, 25,000 Problem Size were 82-85 C. 0 Errors.

Love this cooler ^^

This is also with the stock thermal paste that comes on it.


----------



## R00ST3R

Finally received my 8 pin MB power extension, so now I can throw up a pic







.










Fingerprints have been cleaned off since pic was taken







.


----------



## Sethy666

@ Tragedies - sounds great! Glad your loving it. Imagine what you would get with some MX 3 under that pump









@ R00ST3R - thats a really neat set up you have there - looks sweet.


----------



## megalith1c

Here is my new setup with my H50. I haven't OC'd it yet since I just finished it. But it keeps my i5 750 at 1-2deg above ambient. 22-28degC idle, 30-40deg load (I used whatever paste was already on it. I mounted my pump upside down as it seemed less stressfull on the hoses and connections. But seeing everyone else's maybe I could put it up the other way.


----------



## GAMERIG

I just put new SLI motherboard into rig which is replaced another motherboard for MY SLI video cards. I uninstalled all parts from motherboard. anyhow, I noticed H50's radiator got DUST:









I realized that H50's radiator easily get dust quickly than my car's radiator. that's right?

anyway I clean it as hell and blew dust out of it before install Fan Filter 120mm..

Good thing, I purchased fan filter from fry's like few weeks ago. But I didn't install it on H50.

Now I installed it on H50: step by step- 1. Fan grill, 2. filter, then 3. front cover.




























I hope fan filter will help and dont get any dust on radiadtor. And I did test temp. it keep lowest temp in rig very well..

you visit at bgears for Fan Filter 120mm if you need ..


----------



## R00ST3R

@Sethy666 - Thanks bro, I do the best with what I have







. Just installed a set of 12" Dual UV Meteor lights to mix things up with the blue standard lighting with the case. Now I have to hit the local Hobby Lobby and pick up a UV reactive pen and start coloring away!

@GAMERIG - wow that really got dusty fast on ya! a good reminder to make sure and clean the rad periodically, rep+. Hope those fan filters work out for ya!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
I just put new SLI motherboard into rig which is replaced another motherboard for MY SLI video cards. I uninstalled all parts from motherboard. anyhow, I noticed H50's radiator got DUST:









I realized that H50's radiator easily get dust quickly than my car's radiator. that's right?

anyway I clean it as hell and blew dust out of it before install Fan Filter 120mm..

Good thing, I purchased fan filter like few weeks ago. But I didn't install it on H50.

Now I installed it on H50: step by step- 1. Fan grill, 2. filter, then 3. front cover.

I hope fan filter will help and dont get any dust on radiadtor. And I did test temp. it keep lowest temp in rig very well..

you visit at begears ..


Hey, good tip gamerig + rep. I hadnt even thought about that.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *megalith1c* 
Here is my new setup with my H50. I haven't OC'd it yet since I just finished it. But it keeps my i5 750 at 1-2deg above ambient. 22-28degC idle, 30-40deg load (I used whatever paste was already on it. I mounted my pump upside down as it seemed less stressfull on the hoses and connections. But seeing everyone else's maybe I could put it up the other way.

Another sweet setup









I dont think it matters regarding the orientation of the pump - apart from aesthics.

Good to see someone using an antistatic strap


----------



## RogueThink

Hello... Does anyone know the cubic inch of air the h50 fan blows?

I may want to upgrade to a faster/ better fan.

Right now I'm running 1.26v @ 3.990Ghz @ temp 68-70 after 20 minutes of LinX run @ problem size: 21622 with MiB @ 3584+ the memory being used = to 5GB memory.

Is this temp fine? I'm going to raise the Mhz and see what numbers I get..

Looks like i found the right spot









I also made some changes on my H50 like changing fan spot and taking off things that restricted air etc. I also re did everything over and put on the correct plastic fitting that attaches to the metal plate.

It made a huge difference.

Gonna share progress if you guys don't mind


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RogueThink*


Hello... Does anyone know the cubic inch of air the h50 fan blows?

I may want to upgrade to a faster/ better fan.

Right now I'm running 1.26v @ 3.990Ghz @ temp 68-70 after 20 minutes of LinX run @ problem size: 21622 with MiB @ 3584+ the memory being used = to 5GB memory.

Is this temp fine? I'm going to raise the Mhz and see what numbers I get..

Looks like i found the right spot









I also made some changes on my H50 like changing fan spot and taking off things that restricted air etc. I also re did everything over and put on the correct plastic fitting that attaches to the metal plate.

It made a huge difference.

Gonna share progress if you guys don't mind


Oh, we dont mind... we love updates!

As long as you can keep your load temp under 80c your sweet. Nice job on nearly doubling that clock speed on your CPU


----------



## RogueThink

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Oh, we dont mind... we love updates!

As long as you can keep your load temp under 80c your sweet. Nice job on nearly doubling that clock speed on your CPU


Unfortunately I'm having some ram issues.... only 4gig of my 6 gig is showing...

So now I need to investigate further in why... I got some codes. I need to check

I have a p6t motherboard and i had this issue at start.... It has something to do with the clamp that holds the processor down. Now it posted @ 6gig ram, but it keeps changing......

I need to take everything off again and play with the processor >.<


----------



## Mitch88ell

Sign me up. Love the H50. On a cold start, it dropped down to 13C.








Now time to get my power extension cable.


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *catalyst*


if you google - 
3x30mm machine screw
or
3/16" x 1 1/4" machine screw

your bound to find them.
iv got another 6 black hex drive screws comming in the mail at some point.
i ordered them 2 weeks ago but there was a problem at the supplier. when those come in i`ll post another freebie










Neither 3mm nor the 3/16 fit the rad. 4mm I think would work. 3/16" isn't even close..much too big.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mitch88ell*


Sign me up. Love the H50. On a cold start, it dropped down to 13C.








Now time to get my power extension cable.



Yet another kewl setup... nice









I think Killhouse is busy elsewhere - Uni and modding - so Im not sure when the front page will be updated.


----------



## ounderfla69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Icekilla*


Is it possible to use the H50 with a push/pull setup, using high performance fans, and achieve 4GHZ with an i7 920, with HT on having safe temperatures? or it would be better to use a swiftech apex kit in this case?


I have my I7 920 at 4.009 Ghz and it idles at 42C and 71 at load for 8hrs on Prime 95. I'm still using stock tim, with a push pull with a 140 SCYTHE fan with the 120mm mounting holes pushing and stock pulling.


----------



## Tragedies

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


@ Tragedies - sounds great! Glad your loving it. Imagine what you would get with some MX 3 under that pump









@ R00ST3R - thats a really neat set up you have there - looks sweet.



Totally agree, my local store wont have some in stock till Saturday.


----------



## sexybastard

hey guys if you didn't see i modded my h50 to add a 2x120mm radiator









check it out

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...-radiator.html


----------



## Pings

*The Corsair Home Made Shroud Permalink*

• 1st find and unwanted fan you and not using.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 









• Then cut the braces that holds the fan it's self.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 

















• When you are done its should look like this.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 









• If you want to sand it down that's really up to you. Not sanding it down would not effect air flow.

*Back to Shrouds*


----------



## xmisery

Hi Guys,

I just finished building my new system and ended up deciding on the Corsair H50 for the CPU Cooler. Wow, what an awesome little cooler!! I'm only running stock settings right now, but will soon be attempting to OC to around 4.0-4.3Ghz.

I'm currently using the TIM that came with the cooler, until my Gelid GC-Extreme TIM arrives. I'm also running my H50 in a push/pull config (exhaust) using the Case Fan pulling and the H50 Fan pushing thru the radiator. (I hope that works out good) So far it seems pretty good, super quiet, and really low temps. 27-29C idle.

Overall, I'm very pleased and look forward to pushing this system a bit further in the coming weeks. Attached is a picture of my H50! Requesting to be part of the club!


----------



## mypcisugly

great







the stock tim is really good .I have my pII 925 clock @ 3.5 great temps ..


----------



## [email protected]

Hi @ all, iam new here =)

Nice Forum, the first account in a english forum from me. I hope my english is not to bad









Sorry for offtopic, i have a question. What is a "Rep-point" ?

Anti-OT:



















Greetz


----------



## Tryxx

I got mine today. It's still in the box, as I'm waiting a couple weeks to start the build. (It's going to be great, though!)

I do have a question though: It seems a lot of the pictures and setups people post have the radiator attached to the back of the case (I.E. where the motherboard inputs are). This doesn't make sense to me. From what I understand, you want to INTAKE cool air over the radiator, so why aren't most at the front of the case? It just seems counter productive in my mind to place it at the back. I suppose if it's working as an exhaust it's not as big a problem - but you'd get more out the other setup.

Just curious, as this is my first component to have anything to do with water.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tryxx* 
I got mine today. It's still in the box, as I'm waiting a couple weeks to start the build. (It's going to be great, though!)

I do have a question though: It seems a lot of the pictures and setups people post have the radiator attached to the back of the case (I.E. where the motherboard inputs are). This doesn't make sense to me. From what I understand, you want to INTAKE cool air over the radiator, so why aren't most at the front of the case? It just seems counter productive in my mind to place it at the back. I suppose if it's working as an exhaust it's not as big a problem - but you'd get more out the other setup.

Just curious, as this is my first component to have anything to do with water.

Yeah, true. H50's design for the back of case, due not enough tube if you put the unit in the front of case. but you might interesting the post #609.


----------



## Tryxx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
Yeah, true. H50's design for the back of case, due not enough tube if you put the unit in the front of case. but you might interesting the post #609.









Yep, I saw that. I figured that setup would be in the majority. I've got an Antec Nine Hundred Two, so I was just hoping it would reach. If not, maybe I could do my first mod?


----------



## Icekilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ounderfla69* 
I have my I7 920 at 4.009 Ghz and it idles at 42C and 71 at load for 8hrs on Prime 95. I'm still using stock tim, with a push pull with a 140 SCYTHE fan with the 120mm mounting holes pushing and stock pulling.

and what about using the i7 with hyper threading on at 4ghz? again, the radiator would be ina push/pull setup, taking air from the outside.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]* 
Hi @ all, iam new here =)

Nice Forum, the first account in a english forum from me. I hope my english is not to bad








Sorry for offtopic, i have a question. What is a "Rep-point" ?
Anti-OT:
Greetz


Your english is fine - welcome to the forums!

Nice set up you have happening there..

A "rep" point is obtained if your post assists a person, or the greater membership of the forum with a problem.
You can also get rep if you supply an idea or suggestion for a hardware / software solution eg modding a piece of hardward.

Generally, if people find your suggestions and advice helpful, you will recieve a rep point.

You cant give yourself rep. You cant ask for rep.

See here: http://www.overclock.net/new-members...n-defined.html


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
Hi Guys,

Overall, I'm very pleased and look forward to pushing this system a bit further in the coming weeks. Attached is a picture of my H50! Requesting to be part of the club!









Slick! Very nice









Killhouse is currently MIA elsewhere, so Im not sure when the front page will be updated.

He'll have some work adding all these new members upon his return.


----------



## asuindasun

Well he's gana have a little more then =) just installed mine yesterday and really liking how it looks. Also keeps my prime torture 10C lower than my old xiggy!! woooo

Now just need to find a camera... tired of taking pics with my phone lol


----------



## Hdusu64346

just purchased one of these!


----------



## Itank

i bough one of these and it arrived today. So i got it installed and my CPU temps are actually pretty high. about 10C higher that my air fan, a Zalman 110MM one. And i know i'm doing something wrong. anyone have any thoughs? I installed it the way the manual said any everything.


----------



## Cyberbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Itank*


i bough one of these and it arrived today. So i got it installed and my CPU temps are actually pretty high. about 10C higher that my air fan, a Zalman 110MM one. And i know i'm doing something wrong. anyone have any thoughs? I installed it the way the manual said any everything.


Did you use the stock TIM?
If you applied your own TIM, maybe you applied it wrong. And did you twist the block to remove any air bubbles?


----------



## Itank

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cyberbot*


Did you use the stock TIM?
If you applied your own TIM, maybe you applied it wrong. And did you twist the block to remove any air bubbles?



I used my own TIM that came with my Zalman, but it seems kinda cheap <_< "super thermal grease"


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Itank* 
i bough one of these and it arrived today. So i got it installed and my CPU temps are actually pretty high. about 10C higher that my air fan, a Zalman 110MM one. And i know i'm doing something wrong. anyone have any thoughs? I installed it the way the manual said any everything.


I have the same CPU as you and the same problem when I installed the H50.

<get something better than the Zalmans TIM for next time>

I removed the pre-applied TIM and used MX 3. I used 4 dots around the CPU and 1 dot in the middle for the second attempt and made sure the pump was flush with the CPU.

So, its probable that the pump head isnt sitting right. Take it off, re-apply the TIM and reseat. Apply even pressure to the head as you move it so it engages the holding ring.

Screw the fastening screws in diagonal opposites eg screw 1, screw 3, screw 2, screw 4. a little at a time, so the TIM doesnt squish out one side. Then follow the same pattern until the screws no longer turn... done


----------



## zero9046

Just installed mine in my new build this week. i5 is overclocked to 3.28ghz and idles between 35C and 38C...never saw it break past 57C under prime95 loads. Really is the icing on the cake for my new computer build!


----------



## SonDa5

Just found this club.









My H50 set up is an external mount using a modified Antec 900 case.

Has a Scythe 120x120x38mm fan pushing and the stock Corsair fan pulling in the case.










Works great.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Your english is fine - welcome to the forums!

Nice set up you have happening there..

A "rep" point is obtained if your post assists a person, or the greater membership of the forum with a problem.
You can also get rep if you supply an idea or suggestion for a hardware / software solution eg modding a piece of hardward.

Generally, if people find your suggestions and advice helpful, you will recieve a rep point.

You cant give yourself rep. You cant ask for rep.

See here: http://www.overclock.net/new-members...n-defined.html


Thx for help









you got one Rep-point from me, its not easy in a english forum for me, its good to have anyone who`s helping me.

Greetz


----------



## BlueBird

any idea how to fill the coolant in to..


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]* 
Thx for help









you got one Rep-point from me, its not easy in a english forum for me, its good to have anyone who`s helping me.

Greetz

Your welcome, enjoy you time here.

Quote:

BlueBird said any idea how to fill the coolant in to..
in... to...a what?


----------



## kora04

found a new installation guide straight from corsair.


YouTube- H50German.mp4


----------



## TempestxPR

im have the h50 but what would be better sucking air in or pushing air out the case? i have a nzxt tempest so i have 2 exhaust fans thank you =D

i have it in push pull


----------



## Pings

*Drive Bay Coolers (5.25") Permalink*











kevingreenbmx's Simple 120mm Radiator Mount Mod










Scythe Kama Bay Plus










Mountain Mods Acrylic Triple Bay 120mm fan mount










EverCool HD-AR-B Dual 5.25










COOLER MASTER STB-3T4-E3-GP 4-in-3 Device Module










Lian Li EX-23NB Black Drive Bay Expansion/Cooling Kit











Lian Li PC-343B Fan Module (5.25 bay)










 SilverStone CFP51S (Silver)
 SilverStone CFP51B (Black)

*Note**: Most of these are made for adding extra hard drives, but they will work great for front intake.

*Back To The H50 Permalink*


----------



## nathris

Here you can see the wonderful craftsmanship and quality control...










The 4 screws on the left are the only ones listed on the box, the 4 on the right are an absolute enigma. Apparently they are for the AMD bracket, but the AMD bracket uses the same screws as the Intel ones.

The one in red I have no idea about. Its supposed to be like the ones to the left of it, but from the threading its clearly different, so I can't install my H50.

If I get one more bad product from Corsair I'm just going to give up on them and go with a more reputable brand, like SilenX or Jetway


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
Add me. I will post pics once I get my Corsair Obsidian Series 800d case. Also Fry's has these only sale for $49.99.










congrats, you purchased it...

Mm.. *little topic-off*- you must be local in Sacramento or roseville , i am right?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nathris* 
Here you can see the wonderful craftsmanship and quality control...










The 4 screws on the left are the only ones listed on the box, the 4 on the right are an absolute enigma. Apparently they are for the AMD bracket, but the AMD bracket uses the same screws as the Intel ones.

The one in red I have no idea about. Its supposed to be like the ones to the left of it, but from the threading its clearly different, so I can't install my H50.

If I get one more bad product from Corsair I'm just going to give up on them and go with a more reputable brand, like SilenX or Jetway









If i were you, I would pick it up from homedept or lowe store as match The 3 screws for now. Then call corsair and example them. they automatically will send it by mail for free. thats simple..


----------



## crantana

I read about the wrong screws before I installed luckily......Here's a pic of my set-up.


----------



## nathris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
If i were you, I would pick it up from homedept or lowe store as match The 3 screws for now. Then call corsair and example them. they automatically will send it by mail for free. thats simple..


I paid an extra $3 for NCIX's ExpressRMA service, so once they get that pic they will pay for me to ship it to them, and cross ship me a replacement, and chances are I'll have it by Tuesday.

Going through Corsair would take around 2 weeks, which would be 3-4 weeks with Christmas and New Years.


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
congrats, you purchased it...

Mm.. *little topic-off*- you must be local in Sacramento or roseville , i am right?

It would have been but I'm living back in San Jose while I'm going to school. I went to Frys in Campbell. It's funny how much cheaper stuff is in the Sacramento or Roseville Frys than it is in the San Jose or Campbell Frys. My mom bought a TV in the Sacramento Frys, the next day my wife and I went looking for my father in law, and the same TV was almost 1000 dollars more in Campbell. I asked the dude " do you price match?" he said "Yes" I said "Frys in Sacramento has this very TV for a 1000 dollars less". The guy said "Let me check", he came back a few minutes later and said "No we can't match that". Nice guess though, my PC case was bought in Frys Sacramento.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nathris* 
I paid an extra $3 for NCIX's ExpressRMA service, so once they get that pic they will pay for me to ship it to them, and cross ship me a replacement, and chances are I'll have it by Tuesday.

Going through Corsair would take around 2 weeks, which would be 3-4 weeks with Christmas and New Years.

Wow, they smell your green grass. HA! But i hope they will pay $$ back to you events..

Nevertheless, Corsair will ship it for free if Owner who have H50 cooling's miss parts.

I recall and read the post from another forums that some received AMD bracket from Corsair for free.


----------



## Icekilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Icekilla* 
and what about using the i7 with hyper threading on at 4ghz? again, the radiator would be ina push/pull setup, taking air from the outside.

omg don't you love when people ignores your posts?


----------



## ritchwell

Hey guys just bought an H50 i just want to know are you guys using the TIM that came with unit or you guys use a different one. I remember reading that they use shinetsu TIM on these is that true.


----------



## ounderfla69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Icekilla*


and what about using the i7 with hyper threading on at 4ghz? again, the radiator would be ina push/pull setup, taking air from the outside.


Hyper Threading is turned on. I have it in a Corsair 800D. no side panels on. I was going to use this temporarily until I could afford to get a new WC loop setup and then move it to the Q9550 on the Media Center PC. I still haven't replaced the stock tim on it yet. I am considering keeping it and replacing the Acrylic on the door with wire mesh and put fans to cool the Video card. I wasn't expecting much as I had the CoolerMaster Aquagate R120 and it alright cooling my AMD3700+ chip but it lacked when overclocked.


----------



## Raiden911

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ritchwell* 
Hey guys just bought an H50 i just want to know are you guys using the TIM that came with unit or you guys use a different one. I remember reading that they use shinetsu TIM on these is that true.

Me too, I bought some Corsair H50s. For TIMs, there are just too many freakin choices...so I bought some.









_sharing is caring._


----------



## ritchwell

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Raiden911* 
Me too, I bought some Corsair H50s. For TIMs, there are just too many freakin choices...so I bought some.









_sharing is caring._

It will be awhile before i will install the H50 since im planning a spare build with a i7(just need a mobo and processor). Let us know what works best, right now i have the mx-2 from the last build, if the mx-3, original TIM of the cooler or the OCZ freeze let us know what combo works best.


----------



## GAMERIG

I know this isnt important, However I like to share with you about my *Link Depot of the powerful fan 120x120x38mm*-AC-115Volt. I made wires on my own. I just connected the fan to terminal block and the power cord plug. I just tested it. whoa! It is too fast fan like A *JET ENGINE* and a dominate flow like a very cold.










You wonder it make a noise or loud or quiet, if you asked. unfortunately I cant hear any noise, due a deaf since I was born. No Kidding..









It will not connect to motherboard, according Killhouse's concern about High speed fan will kill the components with it. because of high volt/ AC or something..

Anyway, I will put the third fan on the outside back of case's mesh where the pull/push H50's exhaust. I hope it will be more lowest temp.

Warning: DONT put your finger into it. it will be hurt as hell! thats what I did.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raiden911*


Me too, I bought some Corsair H50s. For TIMs, there are just too many freakin choices...so I bought some.









_sharing is caring. _


 Whoa, you purchased five H50s. thats champion!







...congrats!


----------



## Hdusu64346

I am now an official owner







Great water cooling system for cheap!


----------



## GAMERIG

I installed the superpower fan on the outside back of case with two fans on radiator.









Previous pull/push temp-20-24c without superpower fan. Now its actually drop from 20-24 to 15-18c with superpower fan and two pull-push . that seems little improvement temp!


----------



## Dallus

I JUST picked one up at Fry's for $49.99 and it has probably been the single best part I've bought for my computer. I had a CNPS9700NT and I ran a couple tests with it before I put the H50 on. Here are some quick results.

Ambient 23.3C (74F)

Intel Burn Test, 32-bit, Maximum Stress using 2047MB, 5 Iterations
Values are from HWMonitor
Rig is Sig Rig (All other fans running full speed)

Zalman CPNS9700NT

@1300 RPM ("Silent Mode")
Idle: 36C (96F)
IBT: 74C (165F)
The noise is negligible, but the 74C would probably not be ideal for an extended period of time.

@2800 RPM (Full Speed, NOT Silent Mode)
Idle: 34C (93F)
IBT: 55C (130F)
It is significantly louder than at 1300 RPMs. If you are looking for quiet and cool, this probably isn't for you. 55C isn't bad from what I've seen, but I have also read that the 9700 is inadequate for Quads.

H50 (Fan/Pump Full speed, Installed as directed)
Idle: 25/26C (77/78F) Vaires back and forth between the two temps.
IBT: 52C (127F)
While the load temps aren't THAT much better than the Zalman at full speed, the (lack of) noise this H50 produces is worth the price. This test was also run right out of the box. Once the TIM breaks in or does whatever it does, temps might be better. Or I can replace it with the surplus of AS5 I have sitting around and get better temps in about a week.

Come to think of it, I bought the Zalman for my Q8200 for much more than $50. If I were to set up a Push/Pull with some stout fans, I'm sure the temps will drop to (perhaps) sub ambient levels. I thought I was done spending money on this computer...now I have 2 more things to get. 38mm Fans and a Fan Controller. Damn my love of tech!!!


----------



## benl.jacobs

This is actually now my old PC, but I mounted the radiator on the outside of this Mini-ITX Case [Silverstone SG06, highly recommended if you're going for Mini-ITX] - it may be small but it housed an Intel Core 2 Quad Q9650 @ 3.00 GHz, 4GB OCZ RAM, Zotac GTS250 and 1TB HDD! The second picture shows where the pipes went and the hole I had to cut to get them through. As you can see I mounted the radiator on the supplied screws through the side of the case. I ended up halving the length of the screws to get the radiator that much closer so it looked nicer.

I sold this PC however, and got a new one of course. I liked the H50 so much I got another, so I now have one in my Cooler Master Cosmos 1000 with a stock Intel i5 @ 2.66 GHz. And yet again I'm pleased with it!


----------



## mypcisugly

Quote:


Originally Posted by *benl.jacobs* 
This is actually now my old PC, but I mounted the radiator on the outside of this Mini-ITX Case [Silverstone SG06, highly recommended if you're going for Mini-ITX] - it may be small but it housed an Intel Core 2 Quad Q9650 @ 3.00 GHz, 4GB OCZ RAM, Zotac GTS250 and 1TB HDD! The second picture shows where the pipes went and the hole I had to cut to get them through. As you can see I mounted the radiator on the supplied screws through the side of the case. I ended up halving the length of the screws to get the radiator that much closer so it looked nicer.

I sold this PC however, and got a new one of course. I liked the H50 so much I got another, so I now have one in my Cooler Master Cosmos 1000 with a stock Intel i5 @ 2.66 GHz. And yet again I'm pleased with it!


that's a great job!!! we need pic of the new setup...

Welcome to ocn


----------



## killerxx7

yeah i love the micro setup with the h50=pure win ;0 +rep for you mate


----------



## wuyanxu

add me in









i7 860 at 4Ghz with HT
push-pull exhaust in Antec p182


----------



## Killhouse

Jeez I was gone 3 days and you went and made 10 pages of thread! Some nice pictures around, I'll be commenting and adding people on the front page tomorrow. Right now I need some sleep


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *benl.jacobs* 
This is actually now my old PC, but I mounted the radiator on the outside of this Mini-ITX Case [Silverstone SG06, highly recommended if you're going for Mini-ITX] - it may be small but it housed an Intel Core 2 Quad Q9650 @ 3.00 GHz, 4GB OCZ RAM, Zotac GTS250 and 1TB HDD! The second picture shows where the pipes went and the hole I had to cut to get them through. As you can see I mounted the radiator on the supplied screws through the side of the case. I ended up halving the length of the screws to get the radiator that much closer so it looked nicer.

I sold this PC however, and got a new one of course. I liked the H50 so much I got another, so I now have one in my Cooler Master Cosmos 1000 with a stock Intel i5 @ 2.66 GHz. And yet again I'm pleased with it!

That's very cool







nice work.


----------



## letsrahk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wuyanxu* 
add me in









i7 860 at 4Ghz with HT
push-pull exhaust in Antec p182


Hey how do you have your other fans set up in the p182?


----------



## Edgarejc

Just picked one up at frys for $50









Here is my ghetto version of the push-pull.. lol
gotta go to homedepot to pick up some screws!


----------



## Dallus

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Edgarejc* 
Just picked one up at frys for $50









Here is my ghetto version of the push-pull.. lol
gotta go to homedepot to pick up some screws!


Fry's is ok in my book after this amazing deal! I need to pick up a few screws for the push/pull setup. I believe they're 6-32 x 1-1/4" screws to mount the 25mm thick fan. Enjoy the temps!! I know I am!!

H50 >>> CNPS9700NT


----------



## Andru

Hey guys I got a H50 from Fry's so add me to the club









Just had a quick question. I heard that the pump could be throttled by the Bios and reduce cooling performance. Currently, I have all fans set to 100% except for my CPU fan which is set to "SmartFan". Should this be set to 100% as well? I'm asking because my temps start out very low like around 28C but after an hour of leaving the computer on, this temp rises to 40C. Thanks for the help.


----------



## BlueBird

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Your welcome, enjoy you time here.

in... to...a what?


what i mean, once the coolant start to get reduce after some usage.. how to fill the coolant in its reservoir.


----------



## Dallus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Andru*


Hey guys I got a H50 from Fry's so add me to the club









Just had a quick question. I heard that the pump could be throttled by the Bios and reduce cooling performance. Currently, I have all fans set to 100% except for my CPU fan which is set to "SmartFan". Should this be set to 100% as well? I'm asking because my temps start out very low like around 28C but after an hour of leaving the computer on, this temp rises to 40C. Thanks for the help.


Your pump should be a 3-pin and stick that on a 3-pin fan header. The Radiator fan should be a PWM 4-pin and should go on your 4-pin CPU if your MB has one.

You CAN put the Pump on the CPU Header if you have a 3-pin header from your MB. I do not recall if it is possible to put a 4-pin fan on a 3-pin header, but I believe it is possible to do.

You just have to remember what header you put your pump on and set that to 100%. I have my Radiator Fan set to 100% also and it's still whisper quiet.

SUMMARY: Throttle the Radiator Fan (if necessary), NOT the Pump!


----------



## Bal3Wolf

I been kinda thinking of getting one of these but how well would it go in a antec 900 and would it be better then my tuniq tower. Running my q6600 at 3500-3600 i never pass 55c doing prime95.


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlueBird* 
what i mean, once the coolant start to get reduce after some usage.. how to fill the coolant in its reservoir.

It's a closed loop system. There is no reservoir. It won't loose coolant.


----------



## mav2000

A short review:

http://www.techreaction.net/2009/12/...-a-brief-look/


----------



## Stiger

I thought i would hop on board and post my rig with the H50


----------



## halifax1

Add me!









I have mine in a Push/Pull setup as both Intake at the rear of my case with my top fan in my Antec 300 as the exhaust.

I'm using the rear stock Antec 300 fan set to High as well as the stock Corsair fan that comes with the H50.

Currently I'm getting between 30-34C on all Cores idle, and max load temperature is between 62-66C.


----------



## benl.jacobs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mypcisugly*


that's a great job!!! we need pic of the new setup...

Welcome to ocn


This is my new setup. However these pictures are 'Before' pictures which I've taken to show the change once I've done the cable management mods I plan. So that's why it's messy, I'm not finished! Also sorry for the bad photography, but you get the idea. Here my H50 is just sort of in normally compared with my old Mini-ITX case, not nearly as interesting!

I've since changed it to an exhaust rather than intake fan... why corsair recommended it as an intake I don't know, I'm personally getting better temperatures as an exhaust - any thoughts?


----------



## Capwn

Im on the fence about picking up a H50 at microcenter today. Someone help me pull the trigger. I want to break 3.0 ghz stable on my new 9850 but am maxxing out in temps (63*C in Prime 95) at 2.9 ghz. Can cooler temps really help me get that last 100 mhz?


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


I been kinda thinking of getting one of these but how well would it go in a antec 900 and would it be better then my tuniq tower. Running my q6600 at 3500-3600 i never pass 55c doing prime95.


Looks like Halifax1 has a H50 in a Antec 900, perhaps he'd be willing to tell you how his is set up







.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *halifax1*


Add me!









I have mine in a Push/Pull setup as both Intake at the rear of my case with my top fan in my Antec 300 as the exhaust.

I'm using the rear stock Antec 300 fan set to High as well as the stock Corsair fan that comes with the H50.

Currently I'm getting between 30-34C on all Cores idle, and max load temperature is between 62-66C.


Very good considering your overclock


----------



## Killhouse

*FRONT PAGE UPDATED*
Sorry for my inactivity recently, looks like things have been moving on quickly around here. Taken me a fair while to catch up









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf* 
I been kinda thinking of getting one of these but how well would it go in a antec 900 and would it be better then my tuniq tower. Running my q6600 at 3500-3600 i never pass 55c doing prime95.

It fits in my 902 perfectly so I daresay your 900 will be absolutely fine.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
I know this isnt important, However I like to share with you about my *Link Depot of the powerful fan 120x120x38mm*-AC-115Volt. I made wires on my own. I just connected the fan to terminal block and the power cord plug. I just tested it. whoa! It is too fast fan like A *JET ENGINE* and a dominate flow like a very cold.

[image]

You wonder it make a noise or loud or quiet, if you asked. unfortunately I cant hear any noise, due a deaf since I was born. No Kidding..









It will not connect to motherboard, according Killhouse's concern about High speed fan will kill the components with it. because of high volt/ AC or something..

Anyway, I will put the third fan on the outside back of case's mesh where the pull/push H50's exhaust. I hope it will be more lowest temp.

Warning: DONT put your finger into it. it will be hurt as hell! thats what I did.

Crazy xD Nice job connecting that up!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kora04* 
found a new installation guide straight from corsair.
[Video]

Nice find!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Slick! Very nice









Killhouse is currently MIA elsewhere, so Im not sure when the front page will be updated.

He'll have some work adding all these new members upon his return.


----------



## halifax1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf* 
I been kinda thinking of getting one of these but how well would it go in a antec 900 and would it be better then my tuniq tower. Running my q6600 at 3500-3600 i never pass 55c doing prime95.

I have one in an Antec 300 and using the Stock Corsair fan and the Stock Antec 300 rear fan set to High as both intake fans on the H50 mounted on the back of the case.

I use the top Antec fan as exhaust set to high, and I have my Core i5-750 at 3.8GHz right now with 1.37v and I'm running between 30-35C give or take a few depending on my room temperature and I usually hit about 66C max on my load during LinX for 15-20 passes, and everyone knows LinX gives some higher temps then Prime95, at least in my opinion.

In my opinion I am in love with the H50. I've had Freezer 7s to TRUEs to Noctuas and I think the H50 is my favorite cooler because of the performance I'm getting with this.

I would say jump on it and give it a try. I'm more than pleased with it









Also, this board I have doesn't allow me to get many options for voltage, so that is why my voltage is higher than some that I've seen. If I had a better board I would imagine my voltage would be much lower and my temps would be even better.


----------



## GAMERIG

I just bored and thought why not I check asetek's blog, if there is update or news.

Some of you guys bought Thermaltake Level 10 Chassis or not, and you wonder if H50 will fit into TL10C. you can see here pic: 








Corsair H50 CPU Cooler Installed In New Thermaltake Level 10 Chassis.
Here


----------



## Capwn

Well since nobody had even one opinion on my post one page back I decided to just Do it. Just got done installing it. Not sure that I want to join the club that has no opinions or advice tho. Enjoying the new cooler alot tho. 








Also I noticed in reading every page of this thread last night that Im the first person to post here running this cooler on a Phenom I 9850 B.E. ( or any phenom I from what I remember)


----------



## halifax1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Capwn*


Well since nobody had even one opinion on my post one page back I decided to just Do it. Just got done installing it. Not sure that I want to join the club that has no opinions or advice tho. Enjoying the new cooler alot tho. 








Also I noticed in reading every page of this thread last night that Im the first person to post here running this cooler on a Phenom I 9850 B.E. ( or any phenom I from what I remember)


Not everyone looks through every single post. Just because someone didn't catch your post doesn't mean nobody is willing to give advice to someone.


----------



## Raiden911

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ritchwell*


Hey guys just bought an H50 i just want to know are you guys using the TIM that came with unit or you guys use a different one. I remember reading that they use shinetsu TIM on these is that true.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


I just bored and thought why not I check asetek's blog, if there is update or news.

Some of you guys bought Thermaltake Level 10 Chassis or not, and you wonder if H50 will fit into TL10C. you can see here pic: 








Corsair H50 CPU Cooler Installed In New Thermaltake Level 10 Chassis.
Here


Wow...at least that would be the number 1 choice cooler for that case.


----------



## Killhouse

Sorry Cap, I was going to take a closer look at your question but ran out of time. It would have helped us if you'd told us a little more about your current system. I could have said in one word that you'd see an improvement if you'd said you were using a stock cooler for example.

Best of luck with your overclock, you have a nice looking rig there









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Capwn* 
Im on the fence about picking up a H50 at microcenter today. Someone help me pull the trigger. I want to break 3.0 ghz stable on my new 9850 but am maxxing out in temps (63*C in Prime 95) at 2.9 ghz. Can cooler temps really help me get that last 100 mhz?


----------



## Capwn

Yeah, its NBD. Not many phenom 1 overclockers left around these parts So I'm having alot of trouble breaking this 3.0 barrier when I know the chip does 3.3, At least I dont have that Hyper TX3 and 63* C temps holding me back anymore







. THanks Corsair


----------



## MRHANDS

Just picked one of these up and I have a question. Is it safe to plug the 3 pin header pump plug into a molex-to-3 pin header? I'm curious because I don't know the volts/watts of each.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MRHANDS* 
Just picked one of these up and I have a question. Is it safe to plug the 3 pin header pump plug into a molex-to-3 pin header? I'm curious because I don't know the volts/watts of each.

Should be just fine. Although it's advantagious to have it plugged into the MB, just to see if it's operating correctly.


----------



## halifax1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MRHANDS*


Just picked one of these up and I have a question. Is it safe to plug the 3 pin header pump plug into a molex-to-3 pin header? I'm curious because I don't know the volts/watts of each.


Running it through molex will give it full power so it'll be fine.

Only different with running in the board is for looking at the RPMs but that's not a big concern to me.


----------



## Killhouse

Exactly what they said, if you're worried about it you can set an auto-shutdown feature on your motherboard. This shuts the computer down instantly at your specified temperature. Useful in the unlikely event of a pump failure


----------



## EchoTomcat

Once I get my rig built, you can count me in too


----------



## nathris

I just turned mine on, and its making an awful lot of noise.

The pump is constantly crackling, almost like HDD crackle, and every so often I'll hear a squirt, like the liquid all of a sudden rushes through the tubes...

Temps are great, and there aren't any leaks, but I can't imagine such a noisy cooler being so popular...

I'm guessing it was filled incorrectly and there are air bubbles? Or will this go away after a while...


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nathris*


I just turned mine on, and its making an awful lot of noise.

The pump is constantly crackling, almost like HDD crackle, and every so often I'll hear a squirt, like the liquid all of a sudden rushes through the tubes...

Temps are great, and there aren't any leaks, but I can't imagine such a noisy cooler being so popular...

I'm guessing it was filled incorrectly and there are air bubbles? Or will this go away after a while...


Hmmm, mine is quiet as a mouse. You may have a unit to RMA there.


----------



## nathris

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R00ST3R*


Hmmm, mine is quiet as a mouse. You may have a unit to RMA there.



Figures...

First I had a defective screw, and NCIX sent me some new screws, and now the cooler itself is defective!

Its going to be hard to give up though, 60C load at 3.8GHz right now


----------



## R00ST3R

That's right, I seen your post where you had 5 course thread and 3 fine threaded screws. Sorry to hear about your bad luck w/ your H50 bro







.


----------



## zero9046

Been using an H50 for about a week now...for whatever reason, with the stock fan in my lian li case, it was just too loud for my tastes. Itching for more silent computing, I went to Fry's today and came across the Thermaltake ISCG Fan 12 120mm fan. It only has a three pin header, but as I've read, it is completely acceptable to plug a 3pin into a 4pin cpu header, so I gave it a shot (doesn't hurt that the fan has a little speed control knob attached to it).

After running prime95 for a couple of hours, I can safely say that this fan is a great, more silent running replacement for the stock h50 fan. Even though it runs at somewhat slower rpms, I daresay it is actually keeping my computer a degree or two cooler than the corsair fan.

Just a tip for anyone else who likes a SILENT computer and is looking for a replacement...

BTW, does anyone else ever get frustrated at places like Fry's when you ask the supposed "techxpert" a question? I asked the guy at Fry's today if plugging a 3pin into a 4pin cpu header was ok, and he looked at me like I was crazy and said "that is very dangerous...I would highly advise against it". Yet, a quick google search at home revealed multiple forums and reviews that advised this was perfectly acceptable. So glad places like overclock.net exist!


----------



## halifax1

When I first installed it, I heard the same noises, but it was only for a few moments and at a random moment but now I haven't heard it again but I also hear my AC and the fans overpower the rest of the case so it still may be making the noise but it wasn't a big enough deal to merit me taking it back.


----------



## looser101

Try tilting the case slowly to the right or left to try and dislodge any air bubbles trapped in the rad. If that doesn't work try tilting it forward or back, in case the trapped air is in the pump. Do this while it's running.


----------



## zero9046

it definitely wasn't the pump for me...the fan was just too loud, but maybe I just have sensitive ears


----------



## Tandrial

Ordered mine yesterday, can't wait until it's here. Just a quick question, I'll be using the NYXT Whisper as a case. Does someone here have some experience with that combo?

Also has anybody tried to mount the Rad-unit in the front, between 2 DVD-Roms? If yes, how did you mount it there?


----------



## nathris

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Try tilting the case slowly to the right or left to try and dislodge any air bubbles trapped in the rad. If that doesn't work try tilting it forward or back, in case the trapped air is in the pump. Do this while it's running.


I moved the tubes around a bit when I was getting the fan cable clear of my top fans and its been a bit quieter now.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zero9046*


it definitely wasn't the pump for me...the fan was just too loud, but maybe I just have sensitive ears



No the fan in insanely loud. I'm going to switch to an undervolted push/pull as soon as I get the chance.

I have to say I'm impressed with the performance though.

I knew I got a good chip when I was able to run at 3.5GHz with only 1.18V, but the temps with my HDT were so awful that I couldn't go any further.

Before:










After:


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tandrial*


Ordered mine yesterday, can't wait until it's here. Just a quick question, I'll be using the NYXT Whisper as a case. Does someone here have some experience with that combo?

Also has anybody tried to mount the Rad-unit in the front, between 2 DVD-Roms? If yes, how did you mount it there?


Someone came and posted a few pages back with a link from a project he did in another forum. He had to mount it on the back of an HD cage I think, and use a spacer to make sure the tubes reached.

I dont know your case that well but I cant see any reason why this combo wouldnt be compatible. Google images shows you have a nice 120mm rear exhaust if you wished to mount it there.

Also, Killhouse wants pics when it arrives!


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tandrial* 
Ordered mine yesterday, can't wait until it's here. Just a quick question, I'll be using the NYXT Whisper as a case. Does someone here have some experience with that combo?

Also has anybody tried to mount the Rad-unit in the front, between 2 DVD-Roms? If yes, how did you mount it there?


HERE


----------



## RogueThink

I'm sure someone has done this, but I'm planning on putting a 190CFM Push and 130 CFM pull fan on the radiator.......what do you think?


----------



## Deegan

put my pc on the window sill for some nice cold winter air. the window is cracked about a half inch open, and the front fans are sucking in cold air from a cardboard shroud i made real fast out of a old mobo box. so far nice temps.


----------



## metallicamaster3

Such sexiness.

Add me -- I can't remember if I posted in this thread already.

Anyway, I have two generic (yet nice airflow for what they're worth!) fans in push-pull, intaking on the rear-exhaust. It's okay, because I have a fan on the top of my case (Storm Scout).


----------



## R00ST3R

I'm thinking I never uttered the words "add me" in any of my posts.
So, add me plz!


----------



## Killhouse

Dont worry, I got you a while back









@looser101: Thanks for the link

@RogueThink: Sounds like a good fan setup - keep the high CFM fan pushing. So long as it's CFM after travelling through the radiator is less than 130CFM then you're not bottlenecking. I'm sure you dont need telling that a 190CFM fan will be EXTREMELY loud









@Deegan: Nice temps









Added metallicamaster3. 90 members now


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


90 members now


----------



## rottnpup

Hey can I be a member of this elite club........can I please please!


----------



## Aelan

Im building a computer and I am trying to decide if I should get the h50 or the Noctua NH-U12P SE2. I have not done watercooling before that's why I am nervous about it because I would be worried it would leak.I have seen a lot of positive reviews on the h50 though and not have seen many reports of leaks.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aelan*


Im building a computer and I am trying to decide if I should get the h50 or the Noctua NH-U12P SE2. I have not done watercooling before that's why I am nervous about it because I would be worried it would leak.I have seen a lot of positive reviews on the h50 though and not have seen many reports of leaks.


Aelan, You are right that the closed loop never will leak for years to come. but I am wondering how long years the pump unit will be running? I hope its permanent.


----------



## Capwn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rottnpup*


Hey can I be a member of this elite club........can I please please!


IM sure that can be arranged. BTW welcome to OCN


----------



## Tandrial

Thanks for the hint looser101: +1


----------



## Raiden911

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aelan*


Im building a computer and I am trying to decide if I should get the h50 or the Noctua NH-U12P SE2. I have not done watercooling before that's why I am nervous about it because I would be worried it would leak.I have seen a lot of positive reviews on the h50 though and not have seen many reports of leaks.


The Corsair is still kinda new, but no doubt Corsair picked Asetek based on quality and performance. I think the Corsair H50 will be a good choice for you.


----------



## fireisdangerous84

Just a little mod to make the H50 stand out more in my case.










Just used some green UV coil wire, very happy with the results since the wire only cost Â£2.20. hope you like

tony


----------



## Killhouse

Very nice fireisdangerous. A nice mod that anyone can do easily, and it looks great!

+rep!


----------



## Newbie2009

Add me please. I am now the proud owner. I had a Coolermaster V8. Idle @ 3.6ghz was 38-40 peak 55c.
Now idle @ 28-30, peaking @ 40c. WOW. Exceeded my expectations massively.
Oh yea and that is with settings @ QFan. 2nd fan barely running when idle.


----------



## ira-k

Are you guys getting better temp's with these then a high end HSF, or about the same? Just curios..


----------



## asuindasun

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ira-k* 
Are you guys getting better temp's with these then a high end HSF, or about the same? Just curios..









I had a ziggy S1283 before (idk if that fits the "high end" bracket) but it dropped my load about 8C, and idles maybe 3C lower. Im not running push/pull like a lota people are though.


----------



## ira-k

Hey thats not bad at all. Thanks!..







..Yeah do a push-pull on it, that should be good for a couple more C at least.


----------



## Newbie2009

With push pull is it just amazing.I thought about it for ages before buying, because of dodgy reviews with really odd figures in comparison to the V8 I had(totally did not match the temps I was getting)
I bumped my cpu to 3.8ghz @ 1.55v and did not hit 55c under load(51c at peak). What more can you ask for.
The fan for the CPU does not even move when idle, just the other one going full throttle(noctua). Used the one that came with at as the cpu fan.

@3.0ghz it idles at 24c LOL


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ira-k*


Are you guys getting better temp's with these then a high end HSF, or about the same? Just curios..










You can expect it to put you somewhere between a TRUE and a Mega. Though the H50 is drawing ever closer to the Mega as we see some people put some sexy fans on it


----------



## fireisdangerous84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Very nice fireisdangerous. A nice mod that anyone can do easily, and it looks great!

+rep!

Thanks, im well pleased, here are some more pics, ive added some white coils and some ram sinks for my xfire 5770's


----------



## Killhouse

Very cool, I might use those in my new case.


----------



## halifax1

Where can you buy coils like that to add onto the tubes?


----------



## Killhouse

I dont know which are your usable modding stores. Search for "Coil" and you might come up trumps:

Here's a UK example for any onlookers.
http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/prod...roducts_id=767

I cant find it on newegg, look at sites which stock watercooling supplies


----------



## halifax1

I looked and couldn't find any :/

Nevermind I found some.

Would 1/2" be what I need?


----------



## metallicamaster3

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fireisdangerous84*


Thanks, im well pleased, here are some more pics, ive added some white coils and some ram sinks for my xfire 5770's



















That's drop-dead gorgeous







!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *halifax1*


I looked and couldn't find any :/

Nevermind I found some.

Would 1/2" be what I need?


Yup, just measured it myself.


----------



## ToxicAdam

The lowest! 15c I opened the window in my room... its like 32F outside. buurrrr


----------



## Capwn

Do I need to register with corsiar or anything for my warranty, or just save my POP in case I have to RMA or something? I cant seem to find a real good answer anywhere , anyone know how it works?


----------



## nathris

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Capwn*


Do I need to register with corsiar or anything for my warranty, or just save my POP in case I have to RMA or something? I cant seem to find a real good answer anywhere , anyone know how it works?



Corsair doesn't have any kind of registration. You just need your serial number and you can send the RMA.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nathris*


Corsair doesn't have any kind of registration. You just need your serial number and you can send the RMA.


What RMA stand for? its new to me ..


----------



## fireisdangerous84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Very cool, I might use those in my new case.









Thanks again i got the coils from scan they do lots of different colours to and mega cheap. and also are a cooler way of doing some cable tidying aswell.

http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/1m-Pr...D-Hose-and-1-2


----------



## fireisdangerous84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *halifax1* 
I looked and couldn't find any :/

Nevermind I found some.

Would 1/2" be what I need?

Hi there 1/2" is exactly what i have on it also says they are compatible with 3/8"


----------



## fireisdangerous84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *metallicamaster3* 
That's drop-dead gorgeous







!

Thanks, glad people like it


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


What RMA stand for? its new to me ..










RMA stands for Return merchandise authorization. It's when something breaks you can send it back to the company you bought it from, and they'll fix or replace it, for free.

Never had to do one myself but I'll need to do it for my 2nd hard drive soon, its making bzzzzt noises









You dont need to register with Corsair as far as I know, but it would be worth hanging onto a receipt or a proof of purchase.


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Never had to do one myself but I'll need to do it for my 2nd hard drive soon, its making bzzzzt noises









That's how I got my Raptor upgraded to a VelocitiRaptor


----------



## sledgehammer1990

Could someone measure and let me know the distance between the two tubes on the Radiator?


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sledgehammer1990*


Could someone measure and let me know the distance between the two tubes on the Radiator?


I could, but then I would have to open my case, and I am really tired ;P

If you get no reply by the morning I'll measure it.


----------



## sledgehammer1990

Lazy! Ahaha, alright then. I don't get my case till tomorrow morning anyway.


----------



## Killhouse

May I ask what you're planning which requires such specific information?









Sounds interesting!


----------



## sledgehammer1990

Well my new case has two rubber grommets on the back of the case for water cooling tubes. I was just thinking about having radiator on the outside of the case if the distance between the tubing is correct.


----------



## Killhouse

Ah nice, however - bare in mind that the system is a closed one and removing the tubes to pass them through the holes is quite a mission. Maybe you've thought this through already, just a heads up


----------



## sledgehammer1990

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Ah nice, however - bare in mind that the system is a closed one and removing the tubes to pass them through the holes is quite a mission. Maybe you've thought this through already, just a heads up










Oops! Haha, I forgot about that. There goes that idea.

Here are the grommets on the case. I think they are too close together for the radiator.


----------



## Killhouse

Yeah, they are







And you'd have to dismantle it to get the pipes through.


----------



## Kjekse

I don't think it's a good idea to try to dismantle it


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sledgehammer1990* 
Oops! Haha, I forgot about that. There goes that idea.

Here are the grommets on the case. I think they are too close together for the radiator.










You can do that. If you following Willhemmens's guide. check out link of "Guide" as below.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kjekse* 
I don't think it's a good idea to try to dismantle it









I am not sure you already know about Modded H50, if not, please check out *(Guide) Fitting Clear tubes to a H50*, there you go!


----------



## Mootsfox

Finally getting around to mounting it.

A teaser...


----------



## Kjekse

I'm gonna buy this cooler soon, can't wait :O


----------



## ShadowDragon

Just got mine today!!! Onto the build this weekend. Will post pics as soon as I finish the build. Please add me to this club


----------



## Kjekse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ShadowDragon* 
Just got mine today!!! Onto the build this weekend. Will post pics as soon as I finish the build. Please add me to this club









Cool







I gotta see the pics when you're done!


----------



## yawa

How much of an increase in cooling performance do you think I'll see by changing from horrible Best Buy Dynex TIM to mx2 or whatever the top of the line stuff is?

Would it be worth it?


----------



## Killhouse

Around 2C is about normal if you apply it correctly, maybe 3C+ after it's worn in but it's pretty hard to measure that. Considering it's so cheap and you can use it in the future, I say it's definetely worth it!


----------



## GAMERIG

here is off-topic and dont mean to hijack OP's thread.

Anyway..Mm..I did not know that UK selling ATOMIC WC closed loop kits:









the Atomic is a prebuilt cooling system that uses Asetek LCLC hardware.

*source*


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
here is off-topic and dont mean to hijack OP's thread.

Anyway..Mm..I did not know that UK selling ATOMIC WC closed loop kits:









the Atomic is a prebuilt cooling system that uses Asetek LCLC hardware.

*source*

lol that looks awesome


----------



## Killhouse

That's pretty cool, alas it seems you have to buy the whole graphics card - and even then I cant find a vendor.

It would be interesting to see if any of the H50 tube modders out there consider adding a waterblock to their loop. Cooling the CPU and GPU with a single rad would be a bit much perhaps. But maybe a Northbridge block.


----------



## Diabolical999

Add me to the list! Just ran to Best Buy earlier and picked one up. Was glad to see the AM3 bracket included. 11c drop in temp from the Xigmatek S1283! Such a damn tight fit in this cheapo case. I could not mount it where the tubes were at the top, because _that_ part of the radiator is slightly taller than the opposite side, and pushed against the bottom of my PSU too much -- thus the fan's holes wouldn't align with the radiator. Very pleased with it so far.


----------



## Mootsfox

I bought my H50 about a month ago, but haven't gotten around to installing it until now. Part of that is because I decided to replace my case as well, and to remod the power switch properly all at the same time. So, here's what I've been doing over the last day or so...

Big dent in the top of the case. Very easy to see IRL, got tired of looking at it:










You can see the holes I quickly cut for the Megahalems and a side fan.










Cramped and messy:










New equipment!










Gotta grab a drink before any moding


















First issue encountered, this case doesn't have a rear 120mm spot, but I want to use a 120mm fan... This is my mount to hold it secure.










Outside of the case:









Back inside with the fan mounted (part of the fan mounting was melted away with a soldering iron so the nut would fit)










With that done, next up was the new power switch location.










Much nicer than on the front panel


















Next up, the rad spot. It wouldn't fit on the rear panel, so it had to go here. A quick cut-away (difficult in this area of the case) of the HDD cage is all it needed to fit:










With my front 120mm Silverstone that's served me well for 3 years now, one of the highest CFM 25mm fans. <3










It's a tight fit!










View from the front (sans bezel)










Order of install is important, as some things can't be installed out of order due to the size of the case. Cooler, PSU, Motherboard, Hard drives, Video card is the only way I could get it in.










Oh, break time. My temp setup.










Back to work. PSU now in. The screwdriver was needed there so I could get the motherboard in.










In and mounted!










Different view, so pretty:










With the board in. Notice the cross support that was removed so the rad and fan could be inserted.










All ready to close up. Sooo messy







But great airflow. There's noting but the tubes inbetween the rad and rear 120. The PCI-e power hangs out against the side panel out of the way:










All panels on and ready to go. The top 5.25" panel cover with the hole in it was where the power switch used to be. Now my 3.5" fan controller is behind it, with one finger you can adjust the 3/4 channels (the only two fans in there). Also using the hole, it's possible to open the panel and adjust the other channels.










Front view. I also dremeled out the plastic crap that was blocking airflow on either side of the original power switch. I also removed the switches and LEDs from the front, as well as the front USB and audio (covered with electrical tape). Reason for that was that I never used the switches on my other case (same model), and the cables were taking up room inside of the case.


----------



## sexybastard

awesome mod and pics

+1 (edit: lol nevermind - mods have karma disabled







)

thats quite the sleeper as well. nobody is gonna suspect that little powerspec case to have that high end hard ware inside


----------



## Mootsfox

My last rig was fairly mediocre in a huge case, so I wanted to do the opposite with my i7


----------



## Kjekse

Haha, Awesome


----------



## halifax1

Is it at all possible with some customization to mound the H50 rad in an Antec 1200 in one of the drive bays near the middle of the case? Perhaps with the fan holder that is supplied with the case or with zip-ties or something like that?


----------



## Capwn

Well I bought the H50 kinda as a xmas gift to myself. And whadya know the H50 gave me a great great gift at about 4 this morning, Guess what it is. She got me past 3 Ghz on this new chip of mine.







I'm pretty nub to real real bios overclocking . If anyone has any suggestions to get some more out of her please, feel free to suggest.


----------



## Fitzbane

Quote:



Originally Posted by *halifax1*


Is it at all possible with some customization to mound the H50 rad in an Antec 1200 in one of the drive bays near the middle of the case? Perhaps with the fan holder that is supplied with the case or with zip-ties or something like that?


I am curious about this as well. I want to get one and put it in 4 empty drive bays I have in the front. Seems like it would get lower temps than putting it in the back


----------



## halifax1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Fitzbane* 
I am curious about this as well. I want to get one and put it in 4 empty drive bays I have in the front. Seems like it would get lower temps than putting it in the back

Your case is a lot smaller compared to the Antec 1200, but that's the same area I'm considering trying to get it to fit. I know the tubes on the H50 are not very long and are fairly tough, but I'm going to try and figure out some way to attach it to the bay.


----------



## epidemic

Here we go installed this morning.


----------



## Fitzbane

Quote:


Originally Posted by *halifax1* 
Your case is a lot smaller compared to the Antec 1200, but that's the same area I'm considering trying to get it to fit. I know the tubes on the H50 are not very long and are fairly tough, but I'm going to try and figure out some way to attach it to the bay.


Well if you get it to work let me know..it just seems like it would provide better temps than mounting it on the back. Either way I guess it will be a decent upgrade over the DK I have


----------



## Cyberbot

Hm, I'm going to pick a H50 and a CoolerMaster Storm Sniper case on monday.
How much will it affect the temps if I make the H50 (I'm going to use 2x San Ace 1600RPM fans for push/pull) as exhaust instead of intake? There are;

3x 200mm fans. One for intake on the front,one for exhaust in the top and one for intake on the side panel.

2x 120mm fans. One at the bottom for intake and another at the back for exhaust (this is where my H50 rad will be mounted)

The reason I don't want to turn everything around (back as intake, front for exhaust etc), is because of the lack of dust filters.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *halifax1* 
Is it at all possible with some customization to mound the H50 rad in an Antec 1200 in one of the drive bays near the middle of the case? Perhaps with the fan holder that is supplied with the case or with zip-ties or something like that?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Fitzbane* 
I am curious about this as well. I want to get one and put it in 4 empty drive bays I have in the front. Seems like it would get lower temps than putting it in the back

Search for my first post in this thread for some ideas.


----------



## Mootsfox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *halifax1* 
Is it at all possible with some customization to mound the H50 rad in an Antec 1200 in one of the drive bays near the middle of the case? Perhaps with the fan holder that is supplied with the case or with zip-ties or something like that?

Why wouldn't it be? I fit mine in a Powerspec TX-366, I'm sure you can cram it in there. Note that the rad is about 120mm by ~ 160mm by 20mm.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Diabolical999* 
Add me to the list! Just ran to Best Buy earlier and picked one up. Was glad to see the AM3 bracket included. 11c drop in temp from the Xigmatek S1283! Such a damn tight fit in this cheapo case. I could not mount it where the tubes were at the top, because _that_ part of the radiator is slightly taller than the opposite side, and pushed against the bottom of my PSU too much -- thus the fan's holes wouldn't align with the radiator. I plan on adding another fan for push/pull though. Very pleased with it so far.









Happy Christmas ^^ Glad you're pleased, added.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mootsfox* 
I bought my H50 about a month ago

Really nice modwork there Mootsfox, nice of you to share! A very well-constructed mini-worklog there









Quote:


Originally Posted by *halifax1* 
Is it at all possible with some customization to mound the H50 rad in an Antec 1200 in one of the drive bays near the middle of the case? Perhaps with the fan holder that is supplied with the case or with zip-ties or something like that?

Yes, that is perfectly possible with a little imagination. Though I suggest that you use it in the rear socket, leaving it as exhaust. See my explanation of intake vs exhaust a few quotes down.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Capwn* 
Well I bought the H50 kinda as a xmas gift to myself. And whadya know the H50 gave me a great great gift at about 4 this morning, Guess what it is. She got me past 3 Ghz on this new chip of mine.







I'm pretty nub to real real bios overclocking . If anyone has any suggestions to get some more out of her please, feel free to suggest.

Added







Congratulations and Happy Christmas, I'm afraid I'm not an overclock guru but you're asking in the right forum. Enjoy your cooler, certainly pleased many of us here!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *halifax1* 
Your case is a lot smaller compared to the Antec 1200, but that's the same area I'm considering trying to get it to fit. I know the tubes on the H50 are not very long and are fairly tough, but I'm going to try and figure out some way to attach it to the bay.

The tubes are 28cm long but reinforced with a steel composite making them quite tough to bend. After some use however, mine have become more flexible, leading me to believe they were originally much more flexible than I thought. If you can measure from the CPU block to your mounting position I think you could get them to reach 20-23cm. Good luck if you try this, but I would still recommend mounting as exhaust on the rear. (I assume your reason for mounting it here is to keep cold air intake on the radiator, as Corsair suggest).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *epidemic* 
Here we go installed this morning.

Added, congratulations on your purchase









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cyberbot* 
Hm, I'm going to pick a H50 and a CoolerMaster Storm Sniper case on monday.
How much will it affect the temps if I make the H50 (I'm going to use 2x San Ace 1600RPM fans for push/pull) as exhaust instead of intake? There are;

3x 200mm fans. One for intake on the front,one for exhaust in the top and one for intake on the side panel.

2x 120mm fans. One at the bottom for intake and another at the back for exhaust (this is where my H50 rad will be mounted)

The reason I don't want to turn everything around (back as intake, front for exhaust etc), is because of the lack of dust filters.

Ah one of the big questions around here! I'll try to sum up 80 pages of thread for you









Basically - mounting the radiator as INTAKE will reduce CPU temperatures, the amount depends a lot on your case and your other hardware. If you have loud, stock coolers on your graphics card and less-than-fantastic exhaust fans then your system will get hot quickly. You'll be blowing hot air from the CPU all over the motherboard.
Now this isnt such a great problem at idle temperatures, and could be nice in some ways, since your CPU will stay dead cold and your fans will barely move. However, at load, your CPU may be running at 50C (assuming a high overclock, for AMD - even higher for Intel). Now I can tell you from experience that the Corsair is VERY good at moving that heat from your CPU to the radiator, and if you put your hand over the exhaust from it it's very hot. The thought of this blowing all over my motherboard, RAM, Graphics cards makes me cringe, it just seems so counterintuitive.
In terms of what you notice - intake will yield a couple of degrees better temperature, although really depends on the hardware in your system. If you have lots of graphics cards it's going to increase this difference.
_The personal feelings of myself and most people in this forum are too ignore Corsairs advice, and configure the fan as *EXHAUST*. Note that we also see big improvements in temperatures when you use a push/pull setup._

New topic:
Got some nice moneyz from Christmas this year, I'm looking at buying some better fans for my radiator, as well as looking at some aftermarket coolers for my graphics card - the noisiest part of my system. Maybe also considering an SSD


----------



## Killhouse

*Added an FAQ to the front page*, if anyone feels their question was answered particularly well then please guide me to it so that I can link it on the front page.

Cheers guys


----------



## Kjekse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
*Added an FAQ to the front page*, if anyone feels their question was answered particularly well then please guide me to it so that I can link it on the front page.

Nice








Can't wait to buy mine I will like this every day until I get it:


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I know this has probably been asked a million times and other threads started, but can any of you give a Mega or TRUE vs this h50? With the TRUE (including 2 38mm fans) i can get for the same price as the h50. I know the Mega is the best but probably 20$ more than both. But how does the h50 compare to these two?
Have any of you gone from a high end air cooler to this?
Im again stuck between the h50 and the TRUE. Im using it with an AMD x3 (going to overclock and I have the 4th core unlocked.)


----------



## Dallus

Quote:


Originally Posted by *epidemic* 
Here we go installed this morning.



NOICE!!!

I need to see if the rad will fit on the top of my Tempest. The front exhaust is soooo much cooler than the rear!! MINI PROJECT TOMORROW!! (In addition to upgrading TIM to AS5.)


----------



## Aznboy1993

Count me it! Getting mine tomorrow! Going to do push/pull configuration. Will post pics ASAP! Corsair H50 FTW!


----------



## ira-k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
You can expect it to put you somewhere between a TRUE and a Mega. Though the H50 is drawing ever closer to the Mega as we see some people put some sexy fans on it









Thanks! ...


----------



## BinaryDemon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *epidemic* 
Here we go installed this morning.



I like how you mounted the radiator to the top fan position, very creative. Makes me wonder if I can take advantage of my 140mm top fan like that.

Are you running that as exhaust or intake?


----------



## epidemic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BinaryDemon* 
I like how you mounted the radiator to the top fan position, very creative. Makes me wonder if I can take advantage of my 140mm top fan like that.

Are you running that as exhaust or intake?

Twin 1900RPM S-Flexs' as exhaust. Full load on my cpu is 60C at 4.0 I love it!


----------



## Contagion

Just ordered me one.
Should be here sometime this week.
I have a HAF 932, anyway of being able to make the H50 blow the hot air out of the case?


----------



## TheTurk




----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheTurk* 


















HAF brother-Turk, Yes, there setup is nice.. Mm.. FAN is 120x38mm? if so, whats a brand of fan?


----------



## TheTurk

HAF bro , hahaha thats nice...
i have a Ultra Kaze 3000 there







working out great!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ira-k* 
Thanks! ...









No problem, good find









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Contagion* 
Just ordered me one.
Should be here sometime this week.
I have a HAF 932, anyway of being able to make the H50 blow the hot air out of the case?

You can mount it right on that rear 120mm exhaust, it will fit with almost all motherboards.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheTurk* 
HAF bro , hahaha thats nice...
i have a Ultra Kaze 3000 there







working out great!

Ahh, I get it, thanks. Last Q I curiously ask you, UK3K directly connect to your motherboad's sys fan pin?


----------



## TheTurk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


Ahh, I get it, thanks. Last Q I curiously ask you, UK3K directly connect to your motherboad's sys fan pin?










no, they connected to the psu directly so it works at %100








now on the other hand my pump is connected to the sys fan pin so i can change the speed from bios if needs be...


----------



## hondajt

I'm still wondering how that guy modded his H50! I want to know how to refill it without getting air in the system.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hondajt*


I'm still wondering how that guy modded his H50! I want to know how to refill it without getting air in the system.


This one?

Quote:



http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post7890357


or this one?

Quote:



http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...tubes-h50.html


I think your after this one.

Quote:



http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...-radiator.html


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


I installed the superpower fan on the outside back of case with two fans on radiator.
Previous pull/push temp-20-24c without superpower fan. Now its actually drop from 20-24 to 15-18c with superpower fan and two pull-push . that seems little improvement temp!


Thats insane GAMERIG! How are the temps holding up?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


I installed the superpower fan on the outside back of case with two fans on radiator.









Previous pull/push temp-20-24c without superpower fan. Now its actually drop from 20-24 to 15-18c with superpower fan and two pull-push . that seems little improvement temp!


How come it says your CPU is running on a 4.0 multi, 800 MHz


----------



## Sethy666

LOL, crap... I didnt even notice that. I was too busy looking at the temps


----------



## Swoosh19

Hi guys can i join your club??
i also have a h50 with my build...


----------



## Sethy666

And some nice Gigabyte goodness to boot! Im sure Killhouse will add you shortly. Welcome aboard


----------



## dafour

Been reading for some time and i really needed a better/quiet solution.
Installed this afternoon,and i'm using the rad in front of the case.
Dont mind the mess ,got some work to do tomorrow!
-Temps before was a avg of 38Â°C idle and 65Â°C with orthos,ambient around 23Â°C.This was with a Arctic Freezer 7 Pro with stock tim.
-Now I'm having idle temps of 26-30Â°C and stressed with intelburntest doesn't go over 62Â°C and in orthos barely hits 55Â°C with even 10mhz fsb more overclock.
I'm impressed!,this is only a temporary setup (rad postition,fans) and its already good.Can't wait to see when i optimize the airflow
















I'll be posting some more tomorrow!!


----------



## Killhouse

Added you both, congratulations on your purchase.

Happy Christmas Sethy, good to see you here again ^^


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Added you both, congratulations on your purchase.

Happy Christmas Sethy, good to see you here again ^^

LOL... Merry Christmas to you too! I thought you where the one MIA, what with your new build and all. Looking good bro!


----------



## Killhouse

Cheers it's coming along nicely. Need to do some work on it tonight, finally the family are clearing off! Got a nice bulgin switch and some purple cathodes for it, pretty cool. Also considering buying a 60GB OCZ Vertex, whaddayathink?


----------



## Contagion

The TIM that comes on the H50 is Shin Estu, which is some fantastic stuff.
Should I remove it and put on MX-2?
Anyone done a temp test on this?
(sorry if this has been answered before, I don't feel like reading through a gazillion pages)


----------



## Killhouse

Havnt done a controlled test, but MX-2 is better than stock. I bought some with the H50 and used it, as did many people in this thread


----------



## mav2000

Yup...use mx2, either its not shin itsu or its put on too thick,


----------



## Enigma8750

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Treacherous Intellect* 

~Merry Christmas All~











*From Your Friends at the
Cooler Master Storm Scout Club.*


----------



## Killhouse

Would it be wrong to rep you for that find?


----------



## Contagion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Enigma8750* 

*From Your Friends at the
Cooler Master Storm Scout Club.*


Thank you Enigma.


----------



## looser101

I need that ^^ upgrade!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Also considering buying a 60GB OCZ Vertex, whaddayathink?

Your going all seriously high tech on us... yeah, why not - knock yourself out









@ Contagion - I used MX 3 - cooler sweetness!

@ Enigma8750 - I love her software!


----------



## Swoosh19

Thank you for adding me...
been with this cooler about a month now..it serves my cpu very good...
i get 26-30c on idle and 38-40 on load on room temps with no a/c turned on and opened for 6-7 hours...done some oc and still works stable...


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Swoosh19*


Thank you for adding me...
been with this cooler about a month now..it serves my cpu very good... 
i get 26-30c on idle and 38-40 on load on room temps with no a/c turned on and opened for 6-7 hours...done some oc and still works stable...










And thats pretty damn good, considering your location (Philippines?)


----------



## Swoosh19

Oh yes...i get good temps with this cooler...
i haven't tried to turn on my a/c yet...will try one of these days and ill post some results...at night i get 32c at full load...


----------



## epidemic

Considering strapping on a couple 114CFM Panaflo's to see what kind of temps I get. I don't know if I can stand the noise though.


----------



## Killhouse

Good luck, curious to see how this turns out.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


I noticed H50's radiator got DUST:











I tried this the other day and my temps went up a couple of degrees. So I decided not to use the filter on the rad fan but placed filters on all my intake fans instead.

Anyone else had this experience?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Your going all seriously high tech on us... yeah, why not - knock yourself out










I did it, OCZ Vertex 60gb arriving on wednesday


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Is it possible to fit 38mm fans on the rad? If so how? I think im gonna go to Best Buy and pick one up. Im gonna use it in my 902, and maybe thinking of putting it in the front bay drives. 
Any ideas??


----------



## DraganUS

Yes it is possible to mount 38 mm fan on H50. Here is what I did. I have used these HDD holder screws. For some reason I thought it would fit and it does. I have placed a 38 MM fan outside of my case and used those screws to attach H50 radiator from inside of the case. Like this

120mm Fan -> H50 Radiator -> Back Case wall -> 38 mm Fan

I will attach pics so u can see for uself.


----------



## Killhouse

Nice setup DraganUS, did you paint the fan orange yourself? if not I'm *very* interested in what it may be as I'm after an orange fan


----------



## Kjekse

DraganUS: AWESOME


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Does it really matter if you use a 38mm fan and a 20mm fan on the other because the pressure of the fans will be different. Can you put two 38mm fans on both sides?
I decided to pick it up from Best Buy. Im excited, ill post pictures early this coming week.

Thanks for the pictures


----------



## DraganUS

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Nice setup DraganUS, did you paint the fan orange yourself? if not I'm *very* interested in what it may be as I'm after an orange fan









Yea I did. It is pretty easy, c-clip and thats it. Fan is Ultra Kaze 3K.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Does it really matter if you use a 38mm fan and a 20mm fan on the other because the pressure of the fans will be different. Can you put two 38mm fans on both sides?
I decided to pick it up from Best Buy. Im excited, ill post pictures early this coming week.

Thanks for the pictures

..

Yea, I can. I would just use same set of screws.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kjekse* 
DraganUS: AWESOME









Thanks man

Here is my Build so u guys can check it out for placement and what not.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DraganUS* 
Yea I did. It is pretty easy, c-clip and thats it. Fan is Ultra Kaze 3K.

Ah ok, I've painted all my fans (see log in sig) though sceptical about doing it to such high RPM fans. Cheers though, +rep for the awesome setup and quick response!


----------



## iamwardicus

Add me to the list as well - I got and installed it a couple hours ago. so far so good. Using Shin Etsu thermal goop, and 2x thermalright 120mm fans (not matched sadly) to get the air moving. Dropped 8C off my load temps according to RealTemp. I'm going to switch the higher CFM fan to inside the case tomorrow to see if it'll do better pushing air rather than pulling it.

Edit: And to have the push/pull config, I just went to Home Depot and bought a little pack of 6-32 nuts/bolts for the extra fan. I did have to cut out the grille protecting the 120mm internal fan, but that's ok. anyways, I just connected the outer fan through the case & the vibration dampeners to secure the rad, and used the bolts/washers that came with the H50 to connect my push fan inside the case.

Current temps: Idle 36C - tested load for 10 minutes and it hit 50C.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iamwardicus*


Add me to the list as well - I got and installed it a couple hours ago. so far so good. Using Shin Etsu thermal goop, and 2x thermalright 120mm fans (not matched sadly) to get the air moving. Dropped 8C off my load temps according to RealTemp. I'm going to switch the higher CFM fan to inside the case tomorrow to see if it'll do better pushing air rather than pulling it.


Nice, welcome to the club! When you're inside your case take some photos for us


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quick question, is there a washer mod or anything to put under the screws to screw into the bracket for more tension? Im going to apply Artic Silver 5 on it instead of the stock compound.

Any other tips I should know when installing this?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Any other tips I should know when installing this?


Make sure you use the right screws - 4 of them are slightly smaller, you need these ones









I've never seen a pressure modded H50 before, normally a mod that is used on big _heavy_ air heatsinks which have a tendency to try to tear away from the motherboard. If you do feel like pressure modding it let us know how it goes!


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Okay, thanks for the heads up. 
I dont really like being the first to do something no one has done before and Im not exactly sure how I would do it


----------



## Killhouse

Honestly I say there's no need, someone will probably do it when theyre bored one day and conclude that there was no noticable difference. All modern heatsinks and blocks at designed to give 70lbs of pressure which is some 7 times what they used to be, it is more than adequate to give a constant plane of contact. It's the huge heatsinks which threaten to break loose from the upper cores that experience problems - when 70lbs just isnt enough.


----------



## halifax1

I see no reason to need to pressure mod the H50.

The only time I'd want to do that is if the cooler isn't getting enough pressure and enough contact, and with the mount of the H50, there is more than enough pressure.


----------



## dkev

I pressure modded mine. And it does make a difference.
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...-your-h50.html


----------



## DraganUS

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Ah ok, I've painted all my fans (see log in sig) though sceptical about doing it to such high RPM fans. Cheers though, +rep for the awesome setup and quick response!

Np, If my memory serves me right I think there is c-clip and 2 - 3 o - rings.

btw nice build kh


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Dkev- you never did post pictures of the pressure mod







Pictures say a thousand words and helpful for those who are better with visuals.

So you have a washer on back of the motherboard, then you put in the longer screw through the washer through the motherboard then into the holes that are in the h50 pressure bracket. Then what you do is you get a nut to put at the end of that screw and tighten the nuts in like fashion?

I know thats very general without screw/nut/washer sizes.. (if thats correct even).


----------



## DraganUS

Make sure u dont over tighten the nuts as u would just bent the bracket that holds the pump.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

How would it bend if theres a screw all the way through it?
It looks like someone needs to make the bracket in metal


----------



## sillymansam

Add me, I got my H50 today. Everything is set up but I think I'm going to do a bit of modding since my case is small and the way Asus built this board everything looks cluttered. I'll post picks when I'm done.


----------



## tke395

Mind if I join the club.........







Getting great temps with my H50 ... I didn't think so till I realized that my Tjmax was off. Once I set it to Intel's specs ( 90*Celsius ) these were my results

Oc'ed to 3.2GHz

CPUID CPU NameIntel(R) Core(TM)2 Quad CPU Q6600 @ 2.40GHz
CPU AliasKentsfield
CPU SteppingG0

Temperatures (Everest Ultimate)

Motherboard32 Â°C (90 Â°F)
CPU26 Â°C (79 Â°F)
CPU #1 / Core #122 Â°C (72 Â°F)
CPU #1 / Core #225 Â°C (77 Â°F)
CPU #1 / Core #318 Â°C (64 Â°F)
CPU #1 / Core #424 Â°C (75 Â°F)

And my room temp is 74 *F

heres the Intel specs



you can find the whole document here

http://www.sendspace.com/file/zk6nnw
You have to download the pdf

I spent about 3-4 weeks trying different placements and different applications of artic silver and the best I found was a front mount with the thermal being applied in small dots then smeared thin with a plastic card it also helped that I decided to lap my H50


----------



## dafour

Yay i already got my E6550 17mhz fsb further,(stable at 3619mhz!)stays under 51Â°C with prime.Amazing cooler!!!

*uhm
After reading above i decided to set tjmax correct too,so it says 80Â°C.Was at 95 before.
Now look at this;this cant be?(ambient is 22Â°C)


----------



## tke395

I will know for sure later today ... I'm going to HarborFrieght and getting a Laser temp reader and I will be able to hit the copper on the water block and the CPU I think I will be able to check it on all sides and then I will post what the readings are in relation to everest. I found this Info out either on here in another forum or on a different web site but when you read the whole pdf file it seems legit I mean if you think about it my room temp is 73 F right now and my average CPU temp is 77 F (25 C) so just above ambient would seem believable.

Oh by the way I might be ready to get ride of my thermaltake big typhoon since this H50 has worked out so great if anyone is intrested let me know.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheTurk* 
no, they connected to the psu directly so it works at %100








now on the other hand my pump is connected to the sys fan pin so i can change the speed from bios if needs be...

Yes, Now I got it. thanks for tip.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Thats insane GAMERIG! How are the temps holding up?

Yes it always keep the lowest temp. High speed fan with power cord is very help and good result with temp.. but wait and see what happen with temp's result in summer.

In events, I will change fans configuration and add another 120x38mm as replace 120x25mm from pull/push.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
How come it says your CPU is running on a 4.0 multi, 800 MHz









Captain KH, My cpu is something wrong? I am quiet not sure about my cpu running on 4.0, 800hmz, what do you mean? please example me, if you do care.


----------



## halifax1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


Captain KH, My cpu is something wrong? I am quiet not sure about my cpu running on 4.0, 800hmz, what do you mean? please example me, if you do care.


It shows your CPU is running at 800MHz running on a 4x multiplier.

Something is wrong here.

Could explain why your temps are so low.


----------



## BinaryDemon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *halifax1*


It shows your CPU is running at 800MHz running on a 4x multiplier.

Something is wrong here.

Could explain why your temps are so low.


I think that is just his Cool-n-Quiet working. Must be looking at idle temps at that point.


----------



## cdoublejj

Way cool rigs guys. i idn't even watch but, 2 minutes of the install video i don't need depth discussion on how to snap the screw in the back plate. nor do i like being fed bs, as you want it blowing out the back of the case as said in the first post.


----------



## dafour

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dafour*


Yay i already got my E6550 17mhz fsb further,(stable at 3619mhz!)stays under 51Â°C with prime.Amazing cooler!!!

*uhm
After reading above i decided to set tjmax correct too,so it says 80Â°C.Was at 95 before.
Now look at this;this cant be?(ambient is 22Â°C)


Ok forget the happyness,got to RMA the H50,the pump is making a annoying buzz sound,seems like others have this too..
Too bad i have to take out everything..*again*!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


Captain KH, My cpu is something wrong? I am quiet not sure about my cpu running on 4.0, 800hmz, what do you mean? please example me, if you do care.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *BinaryDemon*


I think that is just his Cool-n-Quiet working. Must be looking at idle temps at that point.


Your computer seems to have slowed down, but as BinaryDemon says, it's probably your Cool'n'Quiet doing that.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dafour*


Ok forget the happyness,got to RMA the H50,the pump is making a annoying buzz sound,seems like others have this too..
Too bad i have to take out everything..*again*!










Unfortunate







Hope you get it back soon. Corsair's customer service have a very good reputation.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DraganUS*


Np, If my memory serves me right I think there is c-clip and 2 - 3 o - rings.

btw nice build kh


Thank you Dragan









Quote:



Originally Posted by *sillymansam*


Add me, I got my H50 today. Everything is set up but I think I'm going to do a bit of modding since my case is small and the way Asus built this board everything looks cluttered. I'll post picks when I'm done.


Added, you're leaving in suspense - cant wait to see what you come up with!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tke395*


Mind if I join the club.........


Very nice, added. +rep for the informative and indepth post









*We're now over 100 members! Thanks guys!*


----------



## tke395

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Very nice, added. +rep for the informative and indepth post









Thats one thing you can count on I will always do alot of research before I make a purchase or change settings with my rig. I always pass the info on to others so maybe they wont have to do the leg work like I did!

by the way would you be able to post the info in the intel report on the main page I think its something everyone should have access to .....

Full pdf
http://www.sendspace.com/file/zk6nnw


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Dkev- you never did post pictures of the pressure mod







Pictures say a thousand words and helpful for those who are better with visuals.

So you have a washer on back of the motherboard, then you put in the longer screw through the washer through the motherboard then into the holes that are in the h50 pressure bracket. Then what you do is you get a nut to put at the end of that screw and tighten the nuts in like fashion?

I know thats very general without screw/nut/washer sizes.. (if thats correct even).


Ok here are some pictures. Like I said, if you leave those little tabs in the mounting bracket, your not going to over tighten it.


----------



## blasphemy

Count me in!

I have mine as push/pull exhausting out the back of my Raidmax Smilodon MID


----------



## asuindasun

Kay have pics of mine finally =) Add me plz!


----------



## tke395

Ok I went out and bought a non-contact thermometer today to test out my temps and to verify that my Tj Maxx setting is right.

These are all taken at Idle with a room temp of 24*c

Ok here is what Everest is reporting.



And here are my readings with the Cen-Tech thermometer

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...112&zmap=93983 $9.99

Radiator




CPU/Pump






Memory


Power supply


Lower Graphics card


Upper Graphics card


Rear Exhaust


Top Exahust


Ok that right there tells me that the Intel Document is right and the TjMaxx for a Q6600 GO is 90*c

oh and I forgot...

*BEST BUY HAS THE H50 ON SALE $59.99!!!!!!!!!!!!!!http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Corsair+...&skuId=9503771*


----------



## Killhouse

Interesting results, well done on researching all that and finding the deal. I will be sure to add the Intel TJmax .pdf on the front page when in the next revision! Posting in between sanding acrylic to give my hands a rest









+rep for the nice research and the deal find.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

So Ive kinda realized theres really no way to mount the rad in the front of the 902 without any sort of modding to anything. The rad is too big to fit inside the removable bay drives..


----------



## DraganUS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


So Ive kinda realized theres really no way to mount the rad in the front of the 902 without any sort of modding to anything. The rad is too big to fit inside the removable bay drives..


Even if u could fit there, what would u do with tubes. Is it enough to reach from front to end?


----------



## tke395

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DraganUS*


Even if u could fit there, what would u do with tubes. Is it enough to reach from front to end?


It will fit into 2 1/2 drive bays. The tubes wont let you go all the way to the front but you will get in far enough in so that the only air that is drawn in is fresh cool air. I spent weeks moving my rad around till I found the best location. I have mine in a push/pull and I havd to zip tie it in 4 places to get it centered and lined up just right look at my temps I have posted trust me follow and you will see the results.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I think the tubes are actually long enough for the 902. Just not sure how I would mount it.
Also, the thing is that for the 902 there are 2 cages for hard drives that are 3 drive bays, so a total of 6 drive bays for drives.. and I have a cd/dvd drive.. You cant split up the 3 bay drive cages... they come out as a whole. So im not exactly sure what to do in this case


----------



## asuindasun

Wooo! Just ran prime95 with the 2nd fan on the rad for push/pull and not getting above 45C







was around 53C before... Me likey


----------



## Jo3f1sh

My first post here. Figured i'd add my name to the list as well.


----------



## goonies

Someone help me find the picture of the uv green glow tubing corsair h50 picture. I know I didn't dream it, or maybe it was some other tubing. I remember it like UV green glow along the ridges of the stock black tubing.


----------



## Killhouse

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...tubes-h50.html

Linked in the first post









Adding you jo3f1sh, nice setup there - thanks for the pictures


----------



## Pings

Got mine for X-miss. Its is 10Â°C cooler (idle) than my Coolit Domino ALC. My Coolit Domino ALC exploded like a wine bottle. Just after I seen that it has a leak, so I took it out and it popped! Liquid going everywhere, my face, my pants, and the floor. I will post pics of this and make it a post.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jo3f1sh*


My first post here. Figured i'd add my name to the list as well.










Oh and welcome to OCN







You picked a good place for your first post!

Added you Pings, looking forward to hearing the whole story


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *halifax1* 
It shows your CPU is running at 800MHz running on a 4x multiplier.

Something is wrong here.

Could explain why your temps are so low.

Oh really? I aint 100% knowledge about CPU's mhz, etc. wow thanks for replied my post, quickly.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Your computer seems to have slowed down, but as BinaryDemon says, it's probably your Cool'n'Quiet doing that.

Unfortunate







Hope you get it back soon. Corsair's customer service have a very good reputation.

Founder KH, Yes, thanks for noticed and remind me about that. Now I really start to be concerning and check it whats going on asap..








REP+


----------



## antonio8

Didn't see myself on the list yet and wanted to be added.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *antonio8*


Didn't see myself on the list yet and wanted to be added.


Dude, I believe that he will add your on this club, soon.. i hope you enjoy with H50 in your rig..


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


* The H50 Owners *
Killhouse
Sexybastard
Kevingreenbmx
Ragsters
Unixwizzrd
Mav2000
Fraudbrand
Dragonxwas 
Ryanrenolds08
Toan
Dorksterr
Hitman1985
Meru
Antonio8


You were there, pretty near the top









@GAMERIG: Good luck with your investigation!


----------



## goonies

I would like to do something similar like this, but in blue uv coil.


----------



## asuindasun

Quote:



Originally Posted by *goonies*


I would like to do something similar like this, but in blue uv coil.











Holy hell that is a sexy setup. is that yours?

Also, KH can I get added plz







pic posted a few pages back i believe. Push/pull is fantastic on this thing!!


----------



## antonio8

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


Dude, I believe that he will add your on this club, soon.. i hope you enjoy with H50 in your rig..










Dude, sorry to bother you.

I am new at this and thought the op added the h50 to our "spec portion".

I went back to the first page and seen that we have to add it ourself.

Now I just need to figuree out how to add a sig.


----------



## DraganUS

Goonies, what case is that?


----------



## goonies

Quote:



Originally Posted by *asuindasun*


Holy hell that is a sexy setup. is that yours?

Also, KH can I get added plz







pic posted a few pages back i believe. Push/pull is fantastic on this thing!!


No I found on another forum it's primochill uv coil.

http://www.primochill.com/primochill...te-orange.html

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DraganUS*


Goonies, what case is that?


Don't know found the build here.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/s...d.php?t=613996


----------



## yawa

K question.

I've noticed while I have lower idles using push pull intake and letting my top fan exhaust, I have an issue when I do a prime burn in. I can idle as low as 30 C with my fairly modest overclock of, 3.8 on all four of my cores, and 2600 nb. However the minute I try a prime overnight burn in I wake up to core temps of about 62C (no crashes or failures mind you, just temps pushing the limits of acceptable) and get a little freaked out as that's a full 32C over my idle temps.

Honest opinion from someone with a similar set up as me, would switching to exhaust lower that temp? Or is there just something fundamentally wrong with my set up?


----------



## halifax1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yawa*


K question.

I've noticed while I have lower idles using push pull intake and letting my top fan exhaust, I have an issue when I do a prime burn in. I can idle as low as 30 C with my fairly modest overclock of, 3.8 on all four of my cores, and 2600 nb. However the minute I try a prime overnight burn in I wake up to core temps of about 62C (no crashes or failures mind you, just temps pushing the limits of acceptable) and get a little freaked out as that's a full 32C over my idle temps.

Honest opinion from someone with a similar set up as me, would switching to exhaust lower that temp? Or is there just something fundamentally wrong with my set up?


low 60s is extremely fine.

I idle in low 30s and under 100% load under LinX I almost hit 70C and sometimes have hit 70s depending on the room temp.


----------



## opty165

Quote:



Originally Posted by *goonies*


I would like to do something similar like this, but in blue uv coil.











just ordered some of the UV red for my setup lol


----------



## Pings

Here are some PIC from my cellphone. I have a 120mm fan supplying fresh air into the case. The H50 is in exhaust with a push and pull setup. I bought a sheet of AC Ryan MeshxPanel awhile ago, and I put that in the drive bays. I might be getting the Corsair Obsidian Series 800d tomorrow, and this case will turn into to my HTPC case, and I'll have to get another H50 for it.


----------



## MonsterRP

Hello all! I would like to join please.

Attachment 134840

Attachment 134841

Thanks!


----------



## uNick

Well.. i also own a Corsair H50.. and i am very happy with results... i have very low tempratures although i dont have good cpu/motherboard (planning to get new in few days).

i have overclocked my cpu from 2.1GHz to 2.4GHz (motherboard doesn't allow me for more overclocking-- multiplier:x8 bus:299 ...) and a case of CoolerMaster HAF 922, i get at 100% load 28C. i think its pretty good


----------



## blasphemy

I posted accouple pages back.. didnt see my name on the list


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Hey guys, on that same site as he tubing I found this 
http://www.primochill.com/primochill...pass-blue.html

What do you guys think as far as changing the radiator?








or this http://www.primochill.com/primochill...pass-blue.html

just something interesting I found.


----------



## Swoosh19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Hey guys, on that same site as he tubing I found this 
http://www.primochill.com/primochill...pass-blue.html

What do you guys think as far as changing the radiator?








or this http://www.primochill.com/primochill...pass-blue.html

just something interesting I found.



looks nasty mate... might go well with my blue theme


----------



## PandaDuy

Add me in holmes!


----------



## Hdusu64346

add me in too!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *med1kl*


add me in too!



Quote:



Originally Posted by *PandaDuy*


Add me in holmes!


Added

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Hey guys, on that same site as he tubing I found this 
...
just something interesting I found.


Take alook at SexyBastards Mod.
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...-radiator.html

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blasphemy*


I posted accouple pages back.. didnt see my name on the list










Added, sorry.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *asuindasun*


Holy hell that is a sexy setup. is that yours?

Also, KH can I get added plz







pic posted a few pages back i believe. Push/pull is fantastic on this thing!!


Added.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yawa*


K question.

I've noticed while I have lower idles using push pull intake and letting my top fan exhaust, I have an issue when I do a prime burn in. I can idle as low as 30 C with my fairly modest overclock of, 3.8 on all four of my cores, and 2600 nb. However the minute I try a prime overnight burn in I wake up to core temps of about 62C (no crashes or failures mind you, just temps pushing the limits of acceptable) and get a little freaked out as that's a full 32C over my idle temps.

Honest opinion from someone with a similar set up as me, would switching to exhaust lower that temp? Or is there just something fundamentally wrong with my set up?


There is a long quote on the first post outlining the advantages and disadvantages of intake vs exhaust.

I'm unfamiliar with Intel temperatures myself but you seem to have got an answer already, good luck!

Here's my H50 right now, I hope it explains my absence in this thread







see sig for more info.


----------



## wire

What size screws are used for mounting the rad? I need to go to the store and get 4 more for another fan.


----------



## MisterAutomatic

This club is massive, and I love the design of the H50, but I have yet to see any good temps posted by anyone (????)


----------



## tke395

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wire* 
What size screws are used for mounting the rad? I need to go to the store and get 4 more for another fan.

You need #6 Machine screws. Just get some long ones and you can cut them to lenght with a pair of wire cutters (most have a place to screw machine screws in and cut them)


----------



## tke395

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MisterAutomatic* 
This club is massive, and I love the design of the H50, but I have yet to see any good temps posted by anyone (????)

you need to read closer

I posted this plus all of my temps being read by a non contact temp reader.


----------



## MisterAutomatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tke395* 
you need to read closer

I posted this plus all of my temps being read by a non contact temp reader.










Yeah but on what page? This thread spans longer than DMX's rap sheet.

Edit: I mean load temps, overclocked temps, reputable temps.


----------



## wire

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tke395* 
You need #6 Machine screws. Just get some long ones and you can cut them to lenght with a pair of wire cutters (most have a place to screw machine screws in and cut them)

So wire cutters will be able to cut these things to length?


----------



## tke395

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tke395* 
Ok I went out and bought a non-contact thermometer today to test out my temps and to verify that my Tj Maxx setting is right.

These are all taken at Idle with a room temp of 24*c

Ok here is what Everest is reporting.



And here are my readings with the Cen-Tech thermometer

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...112&zmap=93983 $9.99

Radiator




CPU/Pump






Memory


Power supply


Lower Graphics card


Upper Graphics card


Rear Exhaust


Top Exahust


Ok that right there tells me that the Intel Document is right and the TjMaxx for a Q6600 GO is 90*c

oh and I forgot...

*BEST BUY HAS THE H50 ON SALE $59.99!!!!!!!!!!!!!!http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Corsair+...&skuId=9503771*

here it is

Yeah and common since should tell you if I have a Idle temp of 26*C that my load temps will be low as hell......

but just to make you happy I will run prime later tonight after work and repost temps


----------



## tke395

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wire* 
So wire cutters will be able to cut these things to length?

yes

http://s.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00...sm=0.9,0.5,0,0

see the hose in the middle they are for cutting machine screws


----------



## wire

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tke395*


yes

http://s.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00...sm=0.9,0.5,0,0

see the hose in the middle they are for cutting machine screws


Just got back from my local hardware store and they had the exact size I needed for screws. $.10 a piece isn't bad + $.14 for each washer.


----------



## mastical

6/32 -1.5" - for 120x25mm
6/32 -2.0" - for 120x38mm, will need a few washes on each screw tho.


----------



## wire

Got some pics of everything setup. So far I'm really liking this over my old setup.


----------



## Cyberbot

Count me in. Just got it mounted today and it looks good. I'm going to OC my Q9550 tomorrow and probably take some pics.


----------



## cluffenstein

Add me, will have new pics when I get my new case (and actually mount the radiator)


----------



## iamwardicus

I just went to Home Depot and bought a 6 pack of 6-32 2" machine screws + nuts - and I'm using the nut as a washer. cost me $1.05 incl. sales tax.


----------



## Setzer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cyberbot*


Count me in. Just got it mounted today and it looks good. I'm going to OC my Q9550 tomorrow and probably take some pics.


Pics, naow :swearing:


----------



## alexhughes79

Count me in.

Got my E7400 to 4.0ghz on this thing . 1.288v


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Well I was able to mount my Rad and 2 fans in the front of my Antec 902 case.

Heres pics so far. Do you guys think that its necessary to lap the CPU or even the H50 water block?
I cant finish tonight I have to go to Home Depot to get nuts and washers for the pressure mod









Whats the best way to apply TIM? Im going to use Arctic Silver 5...


----------



## TheTurk

forgot to get a neon light for UV


----------



## Killhouse

Looks great TheTurk. *Added everyone* else too.

I plan to go through all the pictures and make a "Best of" album on the front page next week.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

i need to know if I should lap the CPU and/or the h50 itself? 
Also im having some trouble figuring out the pressure mod. My Asus mobo came with this metal backplate with thick screws. The screws are about a size larger than the ones supplied with the H50. I think the H50 are 4-40 size screws? and the ones i have are like 6/32s or something. These 6/32 screws dont go into the mounting holders. So should I just stick with the standard mounting setup? Because I could dremel the holes out just a tad for the larger screws to fit in.

im excited to get this thing mounted. Also whats the best method to apply TIM? the pea method doesnt work well on square cpus... maybe just apply it in a thin layer and evenly?


----------



## alecmm61

just bought one from best buy today add me


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


i need to know if I should lap the CPU and/or the h50 itself? 
Also im having some trouble figuring out the pressure mod. My Asus mobo came with this metal backplate with thick screws. The screws are about a size larger than the ones supplied with the H50. I think the H50 are 4-40 size screws? and the ones i have are like 6/32s or something. These 6/32 screws dont go into the mounting holders. So should I just stick with the standard mounting setup? Because I could dremel the holes out just a tad for the larger screws to fit in.

im excited to get this thing mounted. Also whats the best method to apply TIM? the pea method doesnt work well on square cpus... maybe just apply it in a thin layer and evenly?


We have no indications of whether lapping the CPU/Heatsink make a big difference or not. If you've got the kit I say do it!

I would use the bracket that corsair supplied and pressure mod it, rather than trying to use the old backplate *unless* the old backplate is much stronger. The Corsair one is made of plastic if i recall correctly, and wont be good if you put too much pressure on.

Having said that I've never pressure modded anything so I could be talking absolute rubbish


----------



## stanrc

Got mine for xmas and got installed a few days ago. I'm at stock volts and my idle temps are still around 50. I'm pretty sure my idle temps were lower with my previous HSF. Do I need to give it time to settle or is something wrong? I already reseated it once and reapplied the thermal paste.

I only have one fan pushing the rad right now though, looking to get a second to help out.


----------



## Ragsters

Why are you guys using and buying the washers for? How does it help? Are the screws to long?


----------



## Killhouse

A second fan will help hugely but those temps are definetely too high.

I'm idling at 34C with 28C ambient and we have similar chips both at stock volts. I would suggest reseating - make sure you've use the right screws and all the tabs on the mounting ring are in their little sockets. Also check your TIM application, we've had lots of success using 5 small dots (like on a die)

@Ragsters: People have started experimenting with pressure modding over the last couple of pages. No proof of it helping yet though.


----------



## TheTurk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stanrc*


Got mine for xmas and got installed a few days ago. I'm at stock volts and my idle temps are still around 50. I'm pretty sure my idle temps were lower with my previous HSF. Do I need to give it time to settle or is something wrong? I already reseated it once and reapplied the thermal paste.

I only have one fan pushing the rad right now though, looking to get a second to help out.


even with one fan those temps are high if you ask me... did you tighten the screws all the way in?
or maybe your pump is not working at full speed , where did you connect the pumps power ? mobo or directly to psu?


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Ya, the Asus backplate is metal and I cant bend it at all.. but the screw holes that would slide into the spacer brackets are bigger, so I will have to use a larger size screw, meaning i would have to dremel the holes out slightly to fit .

Heres a picture if it helps at all. Larger screws in the old backplate, the Corsair screw next to it.


----------



## Killhouse

Ok, go with the Asus backplate in my opinion. If you're not confident with a Dremel for that sort of job just use a standard drill, you should have no problem.


----------



## stanrc

Heres a few quick shots of my setup.



















My thermal paste has a small brush to apply it, so i basically "painted" on a thin layer across the chip.


----------



## yawa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


We have no indications of whether lapping the CPU/Heatsink make a big difference or not. If you've got the kit I say do it!

I would use the bracket that corsair supplied and pressure mod it, rather than trying to use the old backplate *unless* the old backplate is much stronger. The Corsair one is made of plastic if i recall correctly, and wont be good if you put too much pressure on.

Having said that I've never pressure modded anything so I could be talking absolute rubbish










Same. I'm trying to find ANY information on if lapping the H50 makes a difference (in the end I'm probably just going to do it anyway). I'm sure lapping the processor will produce an effect either way though.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stanrc*


Got mine for xmas and got installed a few days ago. I'm at stock volts and my idle temps are still around 50. I'm pretty sure my idle temps were lower with my previous HSF. Do I need to give it time to settle or is something wrong? I already reseated it once and reapplied the thermal paste.

I only have one fan pushing the rad right now though, looking to get a second to help out.


way too high man, WAY too high. Reseat that thing as soon as you can. I'm using garbage dynex TIM, and have a 2600 NB and 3.8 ghz OC on my Phenom 965, and I idle between 34-36.


----------



## stanrc

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheTurk*


even with one fan those temps are high if you ask me... did you tighten the screws all the way in?
or maybe your pump is not working at full speed , where did you connect the pumps power ? mobo or directly to psu?


The pump is connected to the MB. I tightened it pretty tight but i didn't want to over tighten it.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stanrc*


Heres a few quick shots of my setup.

....

My thermal paste has a small brush to apply it, so i basically "painted" on a thin layer across the chip.


Is the pump cable attached to a SYS_FAN or CPU_FAN?

Quote:



Same. I'm trying to find ANY information on if lapping the H50 makes a difference (in the end I'm probably just going to do it anyway). I'm sure lapping the processor will produce an effect either way though.


I'd love to see some results from this if you can document any of it!


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Oh im a pro at dremeling







I have a bit that can just open it up to the size I need. Now I just need to find nuts and washers








One thing I have noticed is how flimsy the metal pump bracket is.. even with it metal, the little O ring part where the pump locks in can be bent easily. Corsair could have made this stronger IMO


----------



## TheTurk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stanrc*


My thermal paste has a small brush to apply it, so i basically "painted" on a thin layer across the chip.


If the pumps power connected to your mobo check your bios to see if its working at %100


----------



## stanrc

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Is the pump cable attached to a SYS_FAN or CPU_FAN?

I'd love to see some results from this if you can document any of it!


Not sure, is one preferred?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Oh im a pro at dremeling







I have a bit that can just open it up to the size I need. Now I just need to find nuts and washers








One thing I have noticed is how flimsy the metal pump bracket is.. even with it metal, the little O ring part where the pump locks in can be bent easily. Corsair could have made this stronger IMO


I think I might be right in saying that the pressure mod will have little effect, pressure modding has a larger effect on big, heavy heatsinks which try to tear away from the CPU. The H50 never suffers from this because it's too light. For that reason the mounting bracket didnt have to be very strong. Though I agree, overengineering stuff like this is very nice


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stanrc*


Not sure, is one preferred?


Plug the pump into a System fan header, or the PSU_FAN header. Check with speedfan or your BIOS that it's running at full speed (about 1440RPM).

If you plug it into CPU_FAN you will encounter problems because it wont run at full speed (unless you disable SMART fan control in the BIOS).

Check the header and see what it says then get back to us


----------



## yawa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Is the pump cable attached to a SYS_FAN or CPU_FAN?

I'd love to see some results from this if you can document any of it!


I'll see what I can do. I'm new here so I guess it would be about time to contribute something worthwhile.

I'll post some pics when I finally do it. To be honest the processor I'm not nervous about lapping, but something about how the H50 is built and how awkwardly short the connections between the sink and radiator are make me feel like it's gonna be a scary ride to keep that thing even on the sandpaper.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I think im going to lap the CPU.. Since I already have the rad installed which as a PAIN! im not going to take it out. Maybe later on if I decide to get 38mm fans ill lap the H50 part.
Ill let you guys know what I find out. Im using 2 Cooler Master fans rated at 69cfm. Push/pull config in the front of my Antec 902.

Yah, i agree Yawa... It would be weird to hold and try to keep the rad still and all. Plus the tubes are the most flexible either







Kinda wish they used different tubing in a way too


----------



## yawa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


I think im going to lap the CPU.. Since I already have the rad installed which as a PAIN! im not going to take it out. Maybe later on if I decide to get 38mm fans ill lap the H50 part.
Ill let you guys know what I find out. Im using 2 Cooler Master fans rated at 69cfm. Push/pull config in the front of my Antec 902.


What are you temps like that?

I'm using the corsair fan and an old 3 speed antec in a push/pull intake on the back of element S.

I'm probably just going to get two Sycthes in the end though.


----------



## Killhouse

Great, both of you.

@yawa: Maybe you can suspend the rad in the air while you work somehow? This would keep it out the way and then you wont have a problem sliding the H50 over the sandpaper.

@tlxxxsracer: Ah, take some results of before and after please. Lots of people here are interested in this right now.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yawa*


What are you temps like that?

I'm using the corsair fan and an old 3 speed antec in a push/pull intake on the back of element S.

I'm probably just going to get two Sycthes in the end though.


Just thought I'd add. We have the same fans and CPU working on our rigs. That is all


----------



## yawa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Yah, i agree Yawa... It would be weird to hold and try to keep the rad still and all. Plus the tubes are the most flexible either







Kinda wish they used different tubing in a way too


Exactly. I just wish I could find a video of some madman (aka guy smarter than me) doing this so I could get a frame of reference.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Just thought I'd add. We have the same fans and CPU working on our rigs. That is all










lawls at the 3 speed antec. Intake our Exhaust? Honest opinion.


----------



## stanrc

Ok so the fan was plugged into a cpu_fan header. I didn't see any labeled sys_fan so I found a pwr_fan and plugged it in there. Temps seem to be a little better, but not much. Currently hovering around 47-48.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yawa*


lawls at the 3 speed antec. Intake our Exhaust? Honest opinion.


Exhaust, every time.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stanrc*


Ok so the fan was plugged into a cpu_fan header. I didn't see any labeled sys_fan so I found a pwr_fan and plugged it in there. Temps seem to be a little better, but not much. Currently hovering around 47-48.


Pump -> PWR_FAN (correct, make sure it's set to 100% in BIOS though it should be by default.
FAN -> CPU_FAN (correct)

I suggest reseating it, sorry!







Your brush method for the TIM sounds like it could produce a really thin coat, make sure you use enough (but not too much). Double check which screws you use (it should be the 4 slightly smaller ones)


----------



## stanrc

Ok I'll check it in BIOS to make sure its on 100%. And I did use the right screws, took me quite a while to figure out there were two sets when I was installing it though haha.


----------



## Killhouse

It fools everyone. Good luck, I'll probably be in bed when you return from your troubleshooting but someone here will help you I'm sure!


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Results with what? temps without anything lapped? then temps with the cpu lapped? and finally temps with the h50 and cpu lapped combined?
lots of work... but hey, might as well help people out







time to get sandpaper.
I havent finished installing my system yet







Was gone all day sunday and today.


----------



## stanrc

Ok so I think something is wonky on my MB. I had the voltages set to auto and AOD was showing they were 1.35. Now when I was in the bios checking the fan speeds I manually set the voltage to 1.35 and now my temps are much better. Hovering around 38 instead of 50 like before. I must have had some crazy setting in BIOS or AOD enabled that was increasing the voltages although I'm not sure why it wasn't show it changed anywhere.


----------



## Killhouse

Well some before and after temps for anything you're doing. If youre just lapping the CPU it'd still be great to see before lapped and after lapped results, dont feel you have to lap your H50 just to please the ravaging demands of the curious overclockers!


----------



## Jocelyn84

Just picked mine up a few hours ago...Its for a soon to be i5 build


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stanrc* 
Ok so I think something is wonky on my MB. I had the voltages set to auto and AOD was showing they were 1.35. Now when I was in the bios checking the fan speeds I manually set the voltage to 1.35 and now my temps are much better. Hovering around 38 instead of 50 like before. I must have had some crazy setting in BIOS or AOD enabled that was increasing the voltages although I'm not sure why it wasn't show it changed anywhere.

Great to hear, 38C sounds much more normal, I'm currently at 34C and I'm in a fairly cold room and running semi-caseless (see worklog in sig). Sounds like you found your solution!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84* 
Just picked mine up a few hours ago...Its for a soon to be i5 build









Added and welcome, another 902 user







Would love to see some pictures once your rig is up and running. Need more H50 pr0n









_Sorry for all the double posts, this thread is updating as I'm writing._


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I think I might be right in saying that the pressure mod will have little effect, pressure modding has a larger effect on big, heavy heatsinks which try to tear away from the CPU. The H50 never suffers from this because it's too light. For that reason the mounting bracket didnt have to be very strong. Though I agree, overengineering stuff like this is very nice









I pressure modded mine. Improved temps by 7c. Just added a fan shroud on the intake side. Dropped it another 3c. CPU running 1c over ambient idle. 9c over ambient under full load.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
I pressure modded mine. Improved temps by 7c. Just added a fan shroud on the intake side. Dropped it another 3c. CPU running 1c over ambient idle. 9c over ambient under full load.









Thank you Dkev, this might be something I have to try. Lets see if the others come up with something similar.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

okay. Well the stock cooler that comes with the phenom II x3, idle i was running 49C and under full load a toasty 70C if i remember correctly. I unlocked the 4th core so thats why. ill post temps of unlapped cpu idle/load.. then ill lap it and do it again. and ill do some overclocking as well so you guys can get a feel of it more
I may do something similar with the shroud later on, using Thermalrights tube, to connect the front fan to the rad then the rad to the 2nd fan.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
okay. Well the stock cooler that comes with the phenom II x3, idle i was running 49C and under full load a *toasty 70C* if i remember correctly. I unlocked the 4th core so thats why. ill post temps of unlapped cpu idle/load.. then ill lap it and do it again. and ill do some overclocking as well so you guys can get a feel of it more

_*I hope you dont remember correctly!*_ 62C is the maximum Phenoms can go, I think you were probably thinking 60C - thats about where my 965 X4 was at full load with a very dusty stock cooler.

Looking forward to hearing more from you.


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Thank you Dkev, this might be something I have to try. Lets see if the others come up with something similar.

I should point out that a Phenom 550, even overclocked as far as mine, doesn't generate near the heat as an Intel or a quad AMD. I am also using a CM R4 as supply fan for the rad. It has a much higher static pressure then the stock corsair.


----------



## Killhouse

Good point though even if 7C translates to 2-3C it's still a worthwhile mod in my eyes. I tried googling for "pressure mod H50" but it really seems that OCN are at the forefront here. I'm knee-deep in acrylic right now, but when I have less to worry about a pressure mod and lapping is definetely something I'll look at.


----------



## yawa

can we get a convoy of load temp posts and set ups going here real quick? My load temp of 62C with a moderate overclock is really irking me (and part of the reason why I want to lap the two things)...I want to see if there is something simple and silly I might have missed, that I could do to bring that down a bit in the mean time.


----------



## Killhouse

Check your pump is at approx 1450RPM if you havnt done so already. Asides from that the only thing is the seating of the pump.

My load temps are 47C at stock voltage. I'll try to get some sort of collection of data up soon.


----------



## yawa

I admit it could be my ghetto TIM. I'm just surprised at the jump. Like I said a few pages, I'm at about 33C idle. Jumping to 62C load after a few hours of prime seems a bit excessive.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

only thing I dislike about this front configuration on my 902, is that the rad takes up like 3 full cd bay drives and 2 other half of ones.. So i cant use the top slot or slot under it :-/ sure hope its worth it. I have 6 fans in my case right now







coulda been 7 if the h50 was mounted in the rear.


----------



## Killhouse

Is this all because you're trying to keep the H50 as an intake? I dont really know why people go to so much trouble, I prefer the H50 as exhaust.

@Yawa, this could be the cause of your problems. If the temperature rises slowly to it's peak and you dont have a lot of exhaust fans then your entire system could be getting hot, this would reflect on the CPU temperatures. What is your ghetto TIM, it could also be a reason for the jump. Is your radiator fan adjusting to CPU temperature correctly, if at all?


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Yes, i ficured i would try as an intake like this and see the results. ill also monitor mobo temps and gpu temps. i figured the coolest air coming in will be in the front and air outside of the case is cooler than inside. I have a nice 140cfm big antec fan up top and the rear 75cfm fan. so with the rad being in the front at the top, the hot air will be sucked quickly out through the top








bed time.. more work on this tomorrow


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Yes, i ficured i would try as an intake like this and see the results. ill also monitor mobo temps and gpu temps. i figured the coolest air coming in will be in the front and air outside of the case is cooler than inside. I have a nice 140cfm big antec fan up top and the rear 75cfm fan. so with the rad being in the front at the top, the hot air will be sucked quickly out through the top








_bed time.. more work on this tomorrow_


Fair enough, I prefer not to have the hot air blown over my rig even with the big 200mm Antec BigBoy. Each to their own









_Me too, goodnight H50 thread







_


----------



## yawa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Is this all because you're trying to keep the H50 as an intake? I dont really know why people go to so much trouble, I prefer the H50 as exhaust.

@Yawa, this could be the cause of your problems. If the temperature rises slowly to it's peak and you dont have a lot of exhaust fans then your entire system could be getting hot, this would reflect on the CPU temperatures. What is your ghetto TIM, it could also be a reason for the jump. Is your radiator fan adjusting to CPU temperature correctly, if at all?


k.

- I swapped it to exhaust, with the magic Antec pushing and the Corsair stock fan pulling. 
- I mounted (ghetto tied) my 120mm former thermaltake exhaust fan to the upper bays to blow air from the front of the case to my exhaust.
-My Ghetto TIM is Best Buy Dynex.
-My radiator fans are both at 100%.

I'll run prime over night and see how it goes.

I have a feeling it won't be a huge difference but who knows. Maybe I'll at least top out at like 55-54.


----------



## Jocelyn84

Killhouse, I'll have pics up as soon as I figure out which Mobo I want hehe...

Has anyone tried running Intake Fan -> Shroud -> Radiator -> Exhaust Fan (mounted on outside of case)???

I'm considering getting this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/92...c429s163#blank


----------



## Contagion

Guys, what air cooler would you say this competes with granted the H50 has some nice TIM (MX-2) and good Push/Pull fans.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84*


Killhouse, I'll have pics up as soon as I figure out which Mobo I want hehe...

Has anyone tried running Intake Fan -> Shroud -> Radiator -> Exhaust Fan (mounted on outside of case)???

I'm considering getting this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/92...c429s163#blank


I will be doing that testing here in a bit.
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...rsair-h50.html


----------



## wire

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84*


Killhouse, I'll have pics up as soon as I figure out which Mobo I want hehe...

Has anyone tried running Intake Fan -> Shroud -> Radiator -> Exhaust Fan (mounted on outside of case)???

I'm considering getting this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/92...c429s163#blank


Why not just take an old fan and make your own shroud and save yourself some money?


----------



## Jocelyn84

Hehe that's true wire, can't believe I didn't think of that lol. Has anyone gotten better results using this option??


----------



## Capwn

I made a shroud today from a old fan. Will be getting some longer screws tommorrow . Ill post my results


----------



## thlnk3r

Did anyone notice odd gurgling sounds when they first powered on their H50 (pump)? Sorry this is my first closed loop system









Thanks for the replies


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Did anyone notice odd gurgling sounds when they first powered on their H50 (pump)? Sorry this is my first closed loop system









Thanks for the replies

I did. Seems to have gone away. even when I move it around and stuff the sound has yet to come back.


----------



## wire

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Did anyone notice odd gurgling sounds when they first powered on their H50 (pump)? Sorry this is my first closed loop system









Thanks for the replies

Yea I did too. Give it probably 5 minutes of running and those noises should start to go away.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Capwn* 
I did. Seems to have gone away. even when I move it around and stuff the sound has yet to come back.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *wire* 
Yea I did too. Give it probably 5 minutes of running and those noises should start to go away.

Coool









I appreciate the replies!


----------



## elctgames67

Are these temps to high for a phenom ii 940? idle between 38- 40 C, around 52 C on load


----------



## wire

Quote:


Originally Posted by *elctgames67* 
Are these temps to high for a phenom ii 940? idle between 38- 40 C, around 52 C on load

They look to be alright.


----------



## mav2000

Are you talking about OC settings or at stock?


----------



## elctgames67

im oc'd right now at 3.4 but i am at stock voltages. Also, does anyone know if there is a difference temperature wise between the metal amd bracket available from corsairs site, or the one included with the retail one.


----------



## wire

Quote:


Originally Posted by *elctgames67* 
im oc'd right now at 3.4 but i am at stock voltages. Also, does anyone know if there is a difference temperature wise between the metal amd bracket available from corsairs site, or the one included with the retail one.

You have the H50-1 right?


----------



## Capwn

Was able to rig up my shroud a few minutes ago. So far results are looking promising (whats to be expected) Once I get proper screws and mount it better Ill post some results.


----------



## wire

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Capwn*


Was able to rig up my shroud a few minutes ago. So far results are looking promising (whats to be expected) Once I get proper screws and mount it better Ill post some results.


Can't wait to see!!!







I might have a project for myself tomorrow if the results are promising enough.


----------



## elctgames67

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wire* 
You have the H50-1 right?

Yes i picked it up from bestbuy about a week ago.


----------



## wire

Quote:


Originally Posted by *elctgames67* 
Yes i picked it up from bestbuy about a week ago.

Then you most likely have the same bracket that Corsair is selling on their website.


----------



## elctgames67

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wire* 
Then you most likely have the same bracket that Corsair is selling on their website.

My bracket is plastic and comes with black screws, look at the picture on corsairs site and see the difference. https://shop.corsair.com/store/item_...spx?id=1033992


----------



## wire

Quote:


Originally Posted by *elctgames67* 
My bracket is plastic and comes with black screws, look at the picture on corsairs site and see the difference. https://shop.corsair.com/store/item_...spx?id=1033992

O yea... hmm I'm not sure if that provides any difference in performance. Hopefully when the AMD owners come back on later today, they can provide some better insight.


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Capwn* 
Was able to rig up my shroud a few minutes ago. So far results are looking promising (whats to be expected) Once I get proper screws and mount it better Ill post some results.

Thanks so much for this, I can't wait!


----------



## tke395

Man I come home from work and have like 5 pages to read .... dang! We need to get our own team speak or vintrilo..lol

For the one that was talking about temps check this out to make sure you have your TjMaxx set right










you can find the full doc here that includes other processors.

http://www.sendspace.com/file/zk6nnw


----------



## tke395

MisterAutomatic this is what you asked for maybe it will help you make your decission to buy a H50

100% LOAD TEMPS

Room Temp









Everest









Rad









CPU/Pump


----------



## tke395

Found this cool little tool that I think is way better than prime !!!

Its called IntelBurnTest










You can get it here....

http://downloads.guru3d.com/IntelBur...load-2047.html


----------



## halifax1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tke395* 
Found this cool little tool that I think is way better than prime !!!

Its called IntelBurnTest










You can get it here....

http://downloads.guru3d.com/IntelBur...load-2047.html

Lol, we already know about IBT


----------



## TheTurk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tke395* 
Found this cool little tool that I think is way better than prime !!!

Its called IntelBurnTest

You can get it here....

http://downloads.guru3d.com/IntelBur...load-2047.html

OMG wait what is it called again ..intel what?
how is it compare to prime?








im sorry m8 %99.9 of OCN knows but THANKS anyways


----------



## tke395

hey my bad just ran across something and figured I would pass it along ... just Like the Intel document. I figured 99.9% of Oc'ers would know how to set there TjMaxx right but you would be supprised at how many have read the Doc and been amazzed that they were 10*c off more or less.

by the way I have only been ocing for 2 months or more so everything is a new find for me.. I just told my self when I started that I would pass along all info that I found or figured out b/c there are so many people out there that just dont want to help.


----------



## halifax1

If you liked Intel Burn Test, give LinX a try. I find it the best. 20 passes in LinX = Win.


----------



## TheTurk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tke395* 
hey my bad just ran across something and figured I would pass it along ... just Like the Intel document. I figured 99.9% of Oc'ers would know how to set there TjMaxx right but you would be supprised at how many have read the Doc and been amazzed that they were 10*c off more or less.

by the way I have only been ocing for 2 months or more so everything is a new find for me.. I just told my self when I started that I would pass along all info that I found or figured out b/c there are so many people out there that just dont want to help.

i apologize if i offended you bro i sure didnt mean that...and keep up the good work i also am new at OCing i totaly understand you..but little suggestion dont get offended too quickly , a bit of fun is its all about








and yes look into LinX another very good LITTLE utility


----------



## tke395

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheTurk* 
i apologize if i offended you bro i sure didn't mean that...and keep up the good work i also am new at OCing i totally understand you..but little suggestion dont get offended too quickly , a bit of fun is its all about








and yes look into LinX another very good LITTLE utility









Not offened at all a little constructive criticism is always good and thanks for the tip I will look into linX


----------



## videoman5

I'll join. Swapped out the stock fan for a Delta pulled out of a server.


----------



## tke395

Quote:


Originally Posted by *halifax1* 
If you liked Intel Burn Test, give LinX a try. I find it the best. 20 passes in LinX = Win.

I have this running right now and my temps havent moved but a hair and my cpu isnt at 100% plus how long does it that to run the 20 test?

not putting load on the cpu at all after 15min???????


----------



## halifax1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tke395* 
I have this running right now and my temps havent moved but a hair and my cpu isnt at 100% plus how long does it that to run the 20 test?

not putting load on the cpu at all after 15min???????

You're doing something wrong then. LinX puts more stress on the CPU then Prime95 or IBT does in my opinion.

Make sure you have it running for at least 20 passes, and make sure you've clicked to use all RAM possible.

Your CPU won't be at 100% all the time with LinX. LinX goes by using Linpack testing by doing packet tests eachother run.

So, it will heat up for the test then cool off for a few seconds then start the next test then cool off then start the next test and it'll keep doing that until all of the stated passes have been completed.


----------



## stanrc

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
Did anyone notice odd gurgling sounds when they first powered on their H50 (pump)? Sorry this is my first closed loop system









Thanks for the replies

I certainly did and it scared the crap out of me.


----------



## halifax1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stanrc* 
I certainly did and it scared the crap out of me.

Same.


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *elctgames67* 
My bracket is plastic and comes with black screws, look at the picture on corsairs site and see the difference. https://shop.corsair.com/store/item_...spx?id=1033992

That's a much nicer bracket then I got. I got the plastic one as well. I got rid of my back plate and just used the mounting ring and bolted it down. Works way better then those black screws and mounting plate.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Okay, Ive run into a small problem... Those mounting spacers that fit into the eyelets are down as far as they can, but theres still space between the spacer and the motherboard. And it looks like I need a spacer or some fix to this.

Am I doing something wrong Dkev?

Heres a pic


----------



## svtfmook

i'm in









not sure aboutt he radiator mounted upside down, but it doesn't gurgle or slosh, so it should be ok.


----------



## thlnk3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stanrc* 
I certainly did and it scared the crap out of me.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *halifax1* 
Same.

I disabled Smart Q-Fan in my GA bios which I'm assuming made the pump run at 100%(plugged in cpu fan header). After the reboot I started hearing more of "odd" sounds but it eventually stopped. It kind of scared the crap out of me as well


----------



## wire

So the TJmax for a Q6600 G0 is 90? If I set the TJmax to 90C in RealTemp, my temps are a few degrees Fahrenheit below my ambient.


----------



## Contagion

Still waiting for mine to come in.
What air cooler is the H50 comparable too when the H50 has on it a set of good Push/Pull fans and some nice TIM?


----------



## wire

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Contagion* 
Still waiting for mine to come in.
What air cooler is the H50 comparable too when the H50 has on it a set of good Push/Pull fans and some nice TIM?

TRUE & Prolimatech Megahalem I believe. I'm going to need someone to confirm that though.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Yes, its comparable to the TRUE and Mega. I was having a hard time deciding between these three. I got the h50 cause it was convenient at best buy.
Going to be home in an hour and Ill be able to work more on mounting this thing. I need to dremel out the spacer hole some so the screw doesnt use it to screw into, this will make the nut push it down more than screwing it in. We'll see.

The best way to apply TIM on the phenom II is to do 5 smaller size dots on the cpu? Or what..


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Okay, Ive run into a small problem... Those mounting spacers that fit into the eyelets are down as far as they can, but theres still space between the spacer and the motherboard. And it looks like I need a spacer or some fix to this.

Am I doing something wrong Dkev?

Heres a pic

Ya, take off your back plate. You should only be using a washer between the head of the screw and the mobo. This is how you get the added pressure. But leave the eyelets in.


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Contagion* 
Still waiting for mine to come in.
What air cooler is the H50 comparable too when the H50 has on it a set of good Push/Pull fans and some nice TIM?

I found a fan with good static pressure and a fan shroud works way better then a push/pull config with the H50.


----------



## tke395

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wire* 
So the TJmax for a Q6600 G0 is 90? If I set the TJmax to 90C in RealTemp, my temps are a few degrees Fahrenheit below my ambient.

It is possible for this to happen b/c in industrial air systems (air over water "chiller") they are used to bring down the ambient temp. If you look back like 4 or 5 pages you will see that I also did a non contact temp gauge to double check my temps and they match pretty close.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Here is what I have now. Im using the original ASUS metal backplate, and I have an almost 1" long screw..
nut-washer-h50space-mobo-backplate-washer-screw


----------



## elctgames67

How would I bolt it down without a backplate? Which bolts do i need to use to do that?


----------



## cyclometric

Picked up my H50 yesterday at BestBuy (what a deal! 60 bucks!) and installed last night. I didn't understand why I had to remove my existing backplate, which seemed perfectly capable (and the small screws fit in it, too), buit otherwise installation was no problem. I am using the Corsair fan and an ACRyan Blackfire 4 in push/pull, as exhaust. Will probably flip them around tonight after I run some testing for temps, and might replace the ACRyan with the Dark Knight fan (3rd pic), painted UV green & UV Led modded -- I think the CFMs are better, and it's a quieter fan. No idle #s yet, overall I'd say 6-10 degrees lower, on my phII 940 @ 3675, and haven't gone over 47.


----------



## elctgames67

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyclometric* 
Picked up my H50 yesterday at BestBuy (what a deal! 60 bucks!) and installed last night. I didn't understand why I had to remove my existing backplate, which seemed perfectly capable (and the small screws fit in it, too), buit otherwise installation was no problem. I am using the Corsair fan and an ACRyan Blackfire 4 in push/pull, as exhaust. Will probably flip them around tonight after I run some testing for temps, and might replace the ACRyan with the Dark Knight fan (3rd pic), painted UV green & UV Led modded -- I think the CFMs are better, and it's a quieter fan. No idle #s yet, overall I'd say 6-10 degrees lower, on my phII 940 @ 3675, and haven't gone over 47.

Your temps are much better than mine and we have the same motherboard and processor. Where did you find nuts that would fit on the original screws


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


Originally Posted by *elctgames67* 
Your temps are much better than mine and we have the same motherboard and processor. Where did you find nuts that would fit on the original screws

I'm not sure what you mean by 'original' screws. I used 4 of the 8 screws that came with the H50, the 4 with the smaller threads, to attach the H50 bracket to the H50 backplate. But before I removed the stock backplate, I wondered why I couldn't just leave it... it appeared to me to be sturdier. Just to satisfy my curiousity, I I tested the H50 screws to see if they fit in the existing backplate and lo and behold! They did!

Not knowing if bracket underside was meant to snugly fit on the posts of the H50 backplate, I went ahead and removed the stock one and stuck on the black plastic Corsair version.

Is that what you were asking?


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Here is what I have now. Im using the original ASUS metal backplate, and I have an almost 1" long screw..
nut-washer-h50space-mobo-backplate-washer-screw

You did everything fine except the backplate and the washer between the insert and the mobo. Remove both items. Once you do that, then the inserts on the mounting ring will make full contact with the mobo. Then just insert the water block and tighten everything down. But make sure you tighten the ring down in a diagonal pattern so you get even contact on the cpu.









I have a washer between the head of the screw and the mobo. I have another washer between the nut and the insert to allow even pressure to be applied.


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *elctgames67* 
How would I bolt it down without a backplate? Which bolts do i need to use to do that?

This is for a pressure mod. By bolting everything down, instead of using the stock mounting setup, your able to apply much greater pressure between the water block and cpu. This improves heat transfer and will bring down your core temp a few degrees. Depending on your set up.


----------



## elctgames67

Ive been wanting to try that, but im not sure what parts i need to do it. Im kind of dissappointed with my temps becuase they are only 10 degrees lower than the stock amd heatsink.


----------



## elctgames67

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyclometric* 
I'm not sure what you mean by 'original' screws. I used 4 of the 8 screws that came with the H50, the 4 with the smaller threads, to attach the H50 bracket to the H50 backplate. But before I removed the stock backplate, I wondered why I couldn't just leave it... it appeared to me to be sturdier. Just to satisfy my curiousity, I I tested the H50 screws to see if they fit in the existing backplate and lo and behold! They did!

Not knowing if bracket underside was meant to snugly fit on the posts of the H50 backplate, I went ahead and removed the stock one and stuck on the black plastic Corsair version.

Is that what you were asking?


oh...ok so you are using the corsair back plate now. By original screws i meant the ones included with the corsair h50, and not ones you purchased from hardware store.


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *elctgames67* 
Ive been wanting to try that, but im not sure what parts i need to do it. Im kind of dissappointed with my temps becuase they are only 10 degrees lower than the stock amd heatsink.

Well with this mod and adding a fan shroud to the intake side of the rad, my cpu runs just a couple degrees C idle over ambient and about 15-20 over ambient under full load. Thats with it OC'd 1ghz. So I run between 71f - 85f on my cpu.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

This is mine.. Im not sure if the washer under the spacers and the mobo is a problem... Would it short the mobo??


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
This is mine.. Im not sure if the washer under the spacers and the mobo is a problem... Would it short the mobo??

Yup, take that washer out under the spacer. It wont allow you to apply enough pressure if you leave it in.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

but the problem is if I do, the hole that is in the mobo there is bigger than the little eyelets Corsair provides. The spacers that go in the h50 wont sit just right on the mobo then.


----------



## dkev

You might have the screw threaded into the wrong hole on the spacer. I do believe those mobo holes are standardized size. Maybe not. I have a Gigabyte mobo and I did not have that issue. Well even so, you should still be able to apply more pressure then you did before. Fire it up and see if there is any improvement to your temps.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I havent even turned it on yet. but will that washer short out my mobo? thats my concern right now. Theres only one hole to thread the screw into. If you saw a few pages back when I posted the backplate and the two different screws, youll see the eyelet size. That eyelet is smaller than this ASUS one. But Corsair has that plastic backplate that also goes into the hole. Where this ASUS backplate the whole eyelet fits through the hole.
It just seems that if I take the backplate off, and the washer that the pressure wont be equal and possibly cause the plastic to crack since part of the spacer is almost as wide as the hole.

if the washer will not short the mobo out, ill turn it on and see the temps. Because to be honest, I have that thing tightened hard... and is very strongly attached


----------



## Capwn

I wouldnt if I were you. First off the washers where you have them arent helping. And how they are sitting and you saying "tightened hard" does concern me a little after looking at how the washers overlap the conductors on the mobo.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

okay i took it apart... and what i find, the spacers conforming to the shape of the washers... am I screwed now?


----------



## dkev

No your ok. just remove the washers between the spacers and the mobo. You want it tight, but you dont need to crank on it. You should be fine. You might try those hard rubber washers if it is an issue. That way you can compress the rubber without falling into the hole. And you wont interfere with the circuitry.


----------



## DraganUS

JUst snap a picture of ur mobos holes, as I think they are standard size like all other motherboard and u wont need that washers between mobo and spacers. Make sure u use plastic washers for the back of your mobo if u are using nuts.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I take the ASUS metal backplate off as well??

So ill have nut-washer-h50 spacer-mobo-washer-screw

Correct?

Here is what the spacer looks like now (left) and the spacer with 2 holes is on the right. Is it still okay to use the one on the left?

its a metal washer on the back of the mobo in front of the screw head, but theres that ring around the hole.. and it doesnt go beyond that hole so im fine


----------



## DraganUS

Dont put a metal washer on the back of your mobo as u would short it out, if u do that its the same way u did on the first place. Finds some plastic ones, and do with them

U are overtightening those spacers, as u dont need that amount of presure to be applied.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I dont have any plastic spacers... but the screws that hold the mobo onto the case dont have plastic spacers under them... 
how will i know its tightened down enough?

Dkev, are your washers behind the mobo metal or plastic?


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


I take the ASUS metal backplate off as well??

So ill have nut-washer-h50 spacer-mobo-washer-screw

Correct?

Here is what the spacer looks like now (left) and the spacer with 2 holes is on the right. Is it still okay to use the one on the left?

its a metal washer on the back of the mobo in front of the screw head, but theres that ring around the hole.. and it doesnt go beyond that hole so im fine


Nut-washer-spacer-mobo-washer-screw. The one you smashed a little should be ok...but you over tightened it. You just need it snugg. Like I said..if you cant keep the spacer out of the hole, get some rubber washers. And leave the torque wrench in you tool box..lol.


----------



## DraganUS

Just tighten them up untill u hit mobo with spacer. If u dont use washer on the back there is possibility that u would scratch mobo as the screw would circle. Where do u live, cant u just go and buy some plastic ones in HD or lowes?+

There is no way possible that ur holes around cpu are bigger than corsair spacers.


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


I dont have any plastic spacers... but the screws that hold the mobo onto the case dont have plastic spacers under them... 
how will i know its tightened down enough?


If the veins start to bulge out of your neck from cranking on the wrench...your over tightening it. Really just turn it till it feels snug then give it another quarter turn. That's it.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

all of the spacers look like that. and I didnt use a torque wrench, I just used a normal socket and my hand. So it is okay to use those bent spacers then?
Ya i could go to HD or Lowes... Gah, i want to get this thing done







haha.

Okay ill keep that in mind next time.


----------



## DraganUS

Just tighten it untill u hit mobo with those spacers, when u hit it, it is a sign that u are done and need to stop to prevent doing same thing u did to that one spacer.


----------



## Capwn

Well my results are in. I ran 1 hour of Prime 95 with and without a shroud.

First test was with shroud, push/pull (fan--> shroud --> rad --> fan)









The next test was same config minus the shroud.









Do not pay attention to the difference in Value temps. Its bc the time from when I stopped prime to when I took the screenshot's are not identical. 
Its very obvious tho that it did help if only very slightly . 
Take from my tests what you will, I know Ill be using a shroud from now on tho.


----------



## DraganUS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Capwn*


Well my results are in. I ran 1 hour of Prime 95 with and without a shroud.

First test was with shroud, push/pull (fan--> shroud --> rad --> fan)

The next test was same config minus the shroud.

Do not pay attention to the difference in Value temps. Its bc the time from when I stopped prime to when I took the screenshot's are not identical. 
Its very obvious tho that it did help if only very slightly . 
Take from my tests what you will, I know Ill be using a shroud from now on tho.


What fans are u using? Did u had same ambient temps? What size of the shroud did u use?


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DraganUS* 
What fans are u using? Did u had same ambient temps? What size of the shroud did u use?

Coolermaster R-4 (led version) . My digital therm. read a steady 71* F in my room during both tests. 25mm shroud (gutted old Xion fan) also I'm using this setup as Intake as Corsair reccommends.


----------



## Tragedies

Nice to see alot more H-50 Users ^^


----------



## Jocelyn84

+1 Capwn I'm impressed!
Now if only etailers would start stocking the P55A-UD5...


----------



## hondajt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
This one? or this one? I think your after this one.

[Sarcasm]Thanks[/Sarcasm]

I have a degree in automotive engineering. I think like a mechanic. There is more than a _strong chance_ he now has air in the system. That's not good. That could reduce cooling ability.

I just want to _how_ he did it. Did he fill the rad first? Did he fill the pump first? Did you let it overflow while making the tubing connection's?

I think about this like a brake system. I don't mean to sound rude, just curious.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Well guys ive decided to do something completely different. The metal brackblate, im going to grind down some of the eyelet that goes through the mobo holes. This will allow the spacers to be just about flush against the mobo. It will also apply the pressure evenly along the whole section where the 4 corners with the screws. Possibly going to do that tomorrow if I have time.

Itll take more time, but I think overall itll be a better fit and be more secure


----------



## wire

For everyone who has a shroud on their setup, is it a worthy thing to do or not really?

EDIT: Going to head up to the hardware store and pick up 4 longer screws so I can add a shroud to my setup.

I'll post some before and after results.


----------



## looser101

Shrouds help to reduce fan noise as well.


----------



## hondajt

Woot. Just got back from Bestbuy with my new H50. I now own two. The old version and the new one.


----------



## wire

Damn I don't have Enough room to do fan-shroud-rad-fan because I'm hitting the block. What should I do?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wire* 
Damn I don't have Enough room to do fan-shroud-rad-fan because I'm hitting the block. What should I do?

Could you cut the shroud in half?


----------



## wire

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Could you cut the shroud in half?

I don't have tools for that. It stinks because I'm probably 1-2 mm to fat. I might be able to sand down the shroud but idk.


----------



## Killhouse

I doubt it, I just spent about 2 hours sanding down a piece of acrylic to perfection. The most I took off was 0.5mm with 200grit sandpaper. A hand hacksaw would get through it quite easily if you had one of those available, otherwise I think you're stuck


----------



## wire

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I doubt it, I just spent about 2 hours sanding down a piece of acrylic to perfection. The most I took off was 0.5mm with 200grit sandpaper. A hand hacksaw would get through it quite easily if you had one of those available, otherwise I think you're stuck









With 1 fan and a shroud I dropped ~1-2C compared to the push/pull. It'd be nice if I could somehow fit that pull fan in there.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wire* 
Damn I don't have Enough room to do fan-shroud-rad-fan because I'm hitting the block. What should I do?

Fan on the outside?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wire* 
With 1 fan and a shroud I dropped ~1-2C compared to the push/pull. It'd be nice if I could somehow fit that pull fan in there.

You could always mount the second fan outside the case, its a bit ugly but it might be worth it. Interesting that a shroud had such a big effect though









EDIT: he beat me!


----------



## wire

I thought about mounting the fan on the outside, but I'm butt aesthetics in mind and I just don't see it looking very appealing and safe.


----------



## Jocelyn84

I totally forget where I read it, it might have even been this thread, but I thought I remember someone yielding better temps with the shroud being on the exhale side.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Interesting that a shroud had such a big effect though









Less air turbulence = better air flow. That is why there is a noise reduction as well. Turbulent air causes noise. Also evens out the air pressure across the rad.


----------



## wire

Time to go mod this shroud. I'm not going to let 1-2mm get in my way!!! This is OCN for crying out loud


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wire* 
I thought about mounting the fan on the outside, but I'm butt aesthetics in mind and I just don't see it looking very appealing and safe.

Consider it an experiment. If you see an improvement you can rethink your installation.


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wire* 
Time to go mod this shroud. I'm not going to let 1-2mm get in my way!!! This is OCN for crying out loud























There is another thread that went over this somewhere. But anyway, they determined there is no benefit using a pull fan when you have a push fan with a shroud. You would be better off getting a high static pressure fan like an R4. I did exactly that and dropped my temps 3c.


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84* 
I totally forget where I read it, it might have even been this thread, but I thought I remember someone yielding better temps with the shroud being on the exhale side.

I might just have to try this. altho I think on the intake side is going to be better bc you wont have the motor of the push fan sitting right against the rad creating a dead spot (what the shroud is trying to eliminate). On second thought I dont think Ill try it Ill just wait for Contagian's Super Uber Awesome In depth test results. I think he plans to test basicly every config possible with 2 fans , a shroud and the H50.


----------



## vortech

Count me in please







Build photos pending more parts.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
There is another thread that went over this somewhere. But anyway, they determined there is no benefit using a pull fan when you have a push fan with a shroud. You would be better off getting a high static pressure fan like an R4. I did exactly that and dropped my temps 3c.

This? http://martin.skinneelabs.com/Radiat...ng-Review.html


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
This is mine.. Im not sure if the washer under the spacers and the mobo is a problem... Would it short the mobo??

whoa.. My suggest that you should buy plastic washer/spacers instead of metal washer..


----------



## wire

Well my shroud ended up cracking so that is a no go. I think I will be fine with the push pull for now.


----------



## hondajt

Like so, but with a smaller fan:


----------



## dkev

Ok so I have a Storm Scout case. Over the last several days I've been tinkering with fan configs on both the case and the H50. My biggest issue was with system temps due to the rad dumping heat inside the case. Nothing major, under full load my system temps reach 32c. But this case has serious cooling when configed properly, so I wasn't happy. So I tinkered and tinkered some more. So this is what I have come up with. On the H50 from back to front...CM R4 exhausting(pull) / fan shroud / rad / CM R4 supply (push). I have 2 140mm fans on the front of the case as supply, and a 120 on the side panel providing ambient air to video card. The top of the case normally houses a 140. But because of my fan config on the rad this space is empty and providing passive exhaust. From 18" away from the back of the case, I can feel strong (strong for a case fan) air pressure coming from the rad. My cpu temps are identical to what they were before when I had the exhaust fan turned around and blowing into the rad, and my system temps are running 25 - 29c idle/load. Not bad.


----------



## Ragsters

For those of you who use the cooler with the fan blowing in from outside, what are you using as a filter to prevent dust from entering the case? It is hard to find something that will fit outside of my cosmos 1000.


----------



## holgate

so yeah just got my h50 today and was hoping for some good temps, i used to have a noctua nh-u12p on a x3 720 oc to 3.6 with idle temps at 40c, i just got a x4 955 this weekend and installed the same noctua and idle temps were at 28c-29c and load was at 41c, then i installed the h50 my idle temps went up to about 30c-31c and then i oc the 955 to 3.6 (lookin for 3.8) and my idle temps are at 40c-41c and im stable (no i dont have a cpu-z validation right now cause i might remove the h50 and sell it) but at full load it goes up to 52c-53c running prime94 for about 1hr, my setup goes like this, 230x16, cpu 1.43, honestly i really didnt think temps would be this high even for a quad core and my room is cold, any insight or help would be much appreciated.


----------



## chizzau

Picked up my H50 yesterday from best buy. There were 2 left. I don't know if its an upgrade from my zalman 9700 because my temps are all wrong from a bad motherboard but i'll find out tomorrow when my new board comes in. One thing is for sure though, its definitely quieter. You can add me to the owners list.


----------



## Swoosh19

@all

what tim are you using for your h50??


----------



## halifax1

The Corsair H50 comes with Shin Etsu pre-applied. It is better than Arctic Silver 5 and most of the other brands. If you don't have any TIM, you can just install the cooler and the Shin Etsu will be perfect.

I however, messed up when mounting it for the first time, and so I used the only tube I have which is TX-2.


----------



## PC Gamer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
Ok so I have a Storm Scout case. Over the last several days I've been tinkering with fan configs on both the case and the H50. My biggest issue was with system temps due to the rad dumping heat inside the case. Nothing major, under full load my system temps reach 32c. But this case has serious cooling when configed properly, so I wasn't happy. So I tinkered and tinkered some more. So this is what I have come up with. On the H50 from back to front...CM R4 exhausting(pull) / fan shroud / rad / CM R4 supply (push). I have 2 140mm fans on the front of the case as supply, and a 120 on the side panel providing ambient air to video card. The top of the case normally houses a 140. But because of my fan config on the rad this space is empty and providing passive exhaust. From 18" away from the back of the case, I can feel strong (strong for a case fan) air pressure coming from the rad. My cpu temps are identical to what they were before when I had the exhaust fan turned around and blowing into the rad, and my system temps are running 25 - 29c idle/load. Not bad.

Ah so you did end up using a r4 on the h50 ,I'm just wondering because you advised me against using the r4 on the h50 due to noise. Anyways I just got the h50 setup today, and I haven't setup a push pull setup yet, so i'll have to experiment. Also I would love to join this club! I will have pics tomorrow







.


----------



## Killhouse

*Added everyone, 120 members now*









Quote:


Originally Posted by *nekon* 
Count me in please







Build photos pending more parts.

I have a 60gb OCZ vertex arriving tomorrow, snap









Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
There is another thread that went over this somewhere. But anyway, they determined there is no benefit using a pull fan when you have a push fan with a shroud. You would be better off getting a high static pressure fan like an R4. I did exactly that and dropped my temps 3c.

This is really interesting, when I get some time I'm going to test this myself.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Well guys ive decided to do something completely different. The metal brackblate, im going to grind down some of the eyelet that goes through the mobo holes. This will allow the spacers to be just about flush against the mobo. It will also apply the pressure evenly along the whole section where the 4 corners with the screws. Possibly going to do that tomorrow if I have time.

Itll take more time, but I think overall itll be a better fit and be more secure

Good luck, cant wait to see.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hondajt* 
[Sarcasm]Thanks[/Sarcasm]

I have a degree in automotive engineering. I think like a mechanic. There is more than a _strong chance_ he now has air in the system. That's not good. That could reduce cooling ability.

I just want to _how_ he did it. Did he fill the rad first? Did he fill the pump first? Did you let it overflow while making the tubing connection's?

I think about this like a brake system. I don't mean to sound rude, just curious.

If you scroll on a few pages through that thread you'll see. He filled it up in both directions, let it overflow and held it in an awkward position







He reckons he got 97% of the air out









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tragedies* 
Nice to see alot more H-50 Users ^^

I can hardly keep up









Quote:


Originally Posted by *svtfmook* 
i'm in









not sure aboutt he radiator mounted upside down, but it doesn't gurgle or slosh, so it should be ok.

This is *SO* sexy that I let the image stay in the quote







welcome aboard.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thlnk3r* 
I disabled Smart Q-Fan in my GA bios which I'm assuming made the pump run at 100%(plugged in cpu fan header). After the reboot I started hearing more of "odd" sounds but it eventually stopped. It kind of scared the crap out of me as well









Corsair say this is normal, worried me at first too.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wire* 
So the TJmax for a Q6600 G0 is 90? If I set the TJmax to 90C in RealTemp, my temps are a few degrees Fahrenheit below my ambient.

Something is wrong with that .pdf file i think. I don't understand Intel temps and TJmax, I believe they have some good support over in the air cooling/intel section for that.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Contagion* 
Still waiting for mine to come in.
What air cooler is the H50 comparable too when the H50 has on it a set of good Push/Pull fans and some nice TIM?

It comes up below a mega, above a true. Though we dont have any proper results with better fans, I think it's safe to say this is the equivalent of a mega - but so much sexier.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
The best way to apply TIM on the phenom II is to do 5 smaller size dots on the cpu? Or what..

This seems to work for most of us here after I first suggested it 100 pages ago!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *elctgames67* 
im oc'd right now at 3.4 but i am at stock voltages. Also, does anyone know if there is a difference temperature wise between the metal amd bracket available from corsairs site, or the one included with the retail one.

It wont let you get more pressure on the CPU with the metal bracket, but it will be better if you plan to pressure mod. Normally, however, your motherboard/CPU stock backplate is of a similar design so there is no need to get the Corsair one.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Contagion* 
Guys, what air cooler would you say this competes with granted the H50 has some nice TIM (MX-2) and good Push/Pull fans.

As above.

Quote:

honestly i really didnt think temps would be this high even for a quad core and my room is cold, any insight or help would be much appreciated.
Thats quite normal for a 400Mhz overclock on that chip, those things run damn hot. Remember though, 50C isnt that hot and you still have a lot of playing room if you really want to push that OC.


----------



## vortech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *holgate* 
so yeah just got my h50 today and was hoping for some good temps, i used to have a noctua nh-u12p on a x3 720 oc to 3.6 with idle temps at 40c, i just got a x4 955 this weekend and installed the same noctua and idle temps were at 28c-29c and load was at 41c, then i installed the h50 my idle temps went up to about 30c-31c and then i oc the 955 to 3.6 (lookin for 3.8) and my idle temps are at 40c-41c and im stable (no i dont have a cpu-z validation right now cause i might remove the h50 and sell it) but at full load it goes up to 52c-53c running prime94 for about 1hr, my setup goes like this, 230x16, cpu 1.43, honestly i really didnt think temps would be this high even for a quad core and my room is cold, any insight or help would be much appreciated.

Try push VS pull and see what nets you better temps.. Also think about going with a dual fan setup push/pull at the same time. Someone posted links to results in the H50 fan shroud thread and the gains by simply changing the orientation were impressive.

Radiator Fan Orientation and Shroud Testing


----------



## chizzau

quick question, will using fans with different cfm for a push/pull setup cause any kind of airflow bottlenecks?


----------



## halifax1

After installing everything in my Antec 1200 without cable management because I have a new PSU coming soon and didn't feel like spending time managing everything only to have to take it out soon, I am liking my temps under load a ton.

I decided to put both rear Antec fans on the H50 both as intake from the rear. The fan above the outer rear fan is the Corsair fan.

I have all rear fans as intake, and the big boy fan as exhaust. All three fans on the front are intake as well and all on high.










In my Antec 300 I was hitting 70C at times under 100% load.


----------



## holgate

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nekon* 
Try push VS pull and see what nets you better temps.. Also think about going with a dual fan setup push/pull at the same time. Someone posted links to results in the H50 fan shroud thread and the gains by simply changing the orientation were impressive.

Radiator Fan Orientation and Shroud Testing

i have my setup as a push/pull at the current moment

@ killhouse
if this is normal then i can deal with that but i am trying to get 4.0 stable if not i will settle for 3.8 or 3.9

edit: i think ill try 220x17 later when i get home to see how it performs under prime95 and occt


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PC Gamer* 
Ah so you did end up using a r4 on the h50 ,I'm just wondering because you advised me against using the r4 on the h50 due to noise. Anyways I just got the h50 setup today, and I haven't setup a push pull setup yet, so i'll have to experiment. Also I would love to join this club! I will have pics tomorrow







.

If you use a R4 with a shroud, it will reduce the noise greatly. On the Scout, where you mount the side panel fans, the ports are vented. So R4's are noisy when you use them on the side panel. So really it did not matter much if I used them on the rad because the side panel fan is the loudest fan I have at the moment.


----------



## BoxingSurfer

Another one for the club.

Attachment 135109

Brand new build. Merry Christmas









i've got my H50 rad fans in a push/pull configuration, drawing air into the case. I'm using the supplied H50 fan with an Antec TriCool fan i had spare. This fan is set to 'medium' speed.

You can't see it in the picture but there is another 120mm TriCool fan mounted at the front of the case, in front of the (empty) upper drive cage. Theres a spot cooler on the inside of that cage too, just to help airflow in the case. Its just about visible in the photo.

With the exception of the extra fan on the radiator which is set to 'medium' speed, all of the other speed adjustable fans on the case are set to 'low'. The H50 fan is pegged to 100% in BIOS of course.

Here's something that tries to illustrate how the air is moving.

Attachment 135110

My Core i7 is overclocked from 2.9GHz to 3.8GHz. Not extreme, but enought for me for the time being.

The idle temp of each core is about 3 - 4Â°C above ambient room temp
At 100% load with Prime95 or Intel Burn Test running for over an hour, i havent exceeded 76Â°C, on any of the cores. HT and Turbo are not disabled

System temp is between 35 and 40Â°C

This seems completely in line with the test results published by Corsair for the Core i7 870 in the push pull performance guide:

http://blog.corsair.com/?p=987

I'm happy with that.
Also happy that the fans running at those speeds keeps the system really quiet. Quieter than my old AMD x2 4600+







I thought that i might need higher fan speeds to get decent results, but low settings are not anything ugly.

For sure I'm going to recommending this cooler to some other people I know who might be interested.

B


----------



## DraganUS

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chizzau* 
quick question, will using fans with different cfm for a push/pull setup cause any kind of airflow bottlenecks?

No it wont produce any kind of bn, as I have 3k on intake for rad.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I finally got my h50 installed today.
Heres what I did. I left the ASUS metal backplate on, and just grinding the eyelets down some till the h50 spacers fit up against the mobo.
Quick question, whats the rpm speed of the pump supposed to be? I have it plugged into the cpu fan connection on the mobo. Mines reading just about 1400.
Right now my idle temps are at 34C. Im guessing thats right where they should be. Havent done any full load tests yet.


----------



## Swoosh19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


I finally got my h50 installed today. 
Heres what I did. I left the ASUS metal backplate on, and just grinding the eyelets down some till the h50 spacers fit up against the mobo. 
Quick question, whats the rpm speed of the pump supposed to be? I have it plugged into the cpu fan connection on the mobo. Mines reading just about 1400.
Right now my idle temps are at 34C. Im guessing thats right where they should be. Havent done any full load tests yet.


you should have just removed the asus backplate and put the one provided so you didnt have to grind the eyelets out..and mine is also about 1400 rpm..








btw nice rig..


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


I finally got my h50 installed today. 
Heres what I did. I left the ASUS metal backplate on, and just grinding the eyelets down some till the h50 spacers fit up against the mobo. 
Quick question, whats the rpm speed of the pump supposed to be? I have it plugged into the cpu fan connection on the mobo. Mines reading just about 1400.
Right now my idle temps are at 34C. Im guessing thats right where they should be. Havent done any full load tests yet.


Your pump as at full speed. Everything looks good.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

The reason I used the metal backplate is because it wont bend as pressure is being pushed down against the CPU. the metal will give more rigidity as pressure is applied. 
Thanks Swoosh.
Thanks Dkev and Killhouse for all the help







Im very pleased with this. Hopefully after a few days of the TIM breaking in, the temps will lower some too. 
Im using 2 CM R4 fans on the rad push/pull in the front of my case. In the future I may get some 38mm fans with 115cfm ratings and see what happens.


----------



## striker833

I will join, will post pic tommorow


----------



## AndyWxy

Add me plz! Im among the guys above! Oh yes!! I love my H50!

You can check it below from my youtube vid. ;-)

  
 YouTube- My very first step into the O C & water cooling world


----------



## antonio8

Some temp test set up. Sorry for not posting pics. I do not trust if my readings are correct. During test setup I changed everything to stock (no overclock) to try and have test as similar as possible.

As you can see my set up in the sig section I had installed the clear sided option on my case (no fan or ventilation). The H50 at rear of case push/pull intake. One 200mm top fan exhuast. One front 200mm fan intake. One 120mm fan bottom of case intake.

Idle temps around 19Â°-22Â° using core temp. At load highest was 32Â°. At night it gets down to about 16Â°. Ambient temp is about 26Â°. Also graphics card shows 50Â° at idle (gtx275) and 8800gt at 42Â°.

I decided to put on the vented side cover which has a 200mm fan. Everything else stays the same.

The first as intake. The cpu went to idle about 23Â°-25Â° and the graphics card went to 48Â° (gtx275). I believe the cpu went up because the second graphic card exhaust heat inside case (8800gt) ant the side panel fan blew heat up.

So I changed the side panel fan as exhaust the cpu went back to 20Â°-21Â° but the gtx275 now idles at 60Â°









So I am still trying other ways. I will try the push/pull H50 as an exhaust setup and other combos.

Any help or ideas are welcome.


----------



## Killhouse

*Sorry, dont have time to update the front page until Friday night. New Years celebrations at the Killhouse household - rest assured that I will read every post that I've missed on Friday night, and will add people, rep people, and comment as appropriate. Cheers for waiting!*


----------



## svtfmook

some new pics of mine


----------



## vrm4

Just got one myself. Installed last night (push/pull config) after work and dropped my temps @ load from 56 to 47 coming from the Kingwin X-T1264 (which upon removal the TIM impression showed wasn't making optimal contact w/cpu, only 2 of the 4 heatpipes had made an impression in the TIM). Now I want to lap the Kingwin and see how she does as I plan on reusing it w/ my Athlon II X2 245. Pretty happy w/ the Corsair so far.


----------



## enigma1934

add me. New HTPC build, setup as push/pull exhaust. i have no previous temp readings.


----------



## goonies

Any rules you have to follow for the pull fan? Do both fans have to be the same in a push pull? I'm going to just use the stock cooler fan as the push fan.

I want to try to use a Gelid Wing 8 UV Blue.

GELID Solutions GELID Wing 12 1500RPM 120MM UV Blue Gamer Fan 64.3CFM 25DBA NFB 3PIN


----------



## DraganUS

Quote:


Originally Posted by *goonies* 
Any rules you have to follow for the pull fan? Do both fans have to be the same in a push pull? I'm going to just use the stock cooler fan as the push fan.

I want to try to use a Gelid Wing 8 UV Blue.

GELID Solutions GELID Wing 12 1500RPM 120MM UV Blue Gamer Fan 64.3CFM 25DBA NFB 3PIN

There is no rule to follow, but check the op as there is so useful info.

I have 3K kaze intake - stock corsair exhaust.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *enigma1934* 
add me. New HTPC build, setup as push/pull exhaust. i have no previous temp readings.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y41...C/DSCN0220.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y41...C/DSCN0219.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y41...reTemp-Scr.png

You should definitely consider putting a shroud between that fan and rad since u loose a lot of air in between that empty space.


----------



## DOOOLY

Put me in the list 

I added a pic of H50 hanging over the top expansion slot i guess you could try the top exhaust fan

Edit : i add more pics


----------



## sti-06

I jus sold my H50 as I am switching to full WC loop. In the mean time I put my zalman CNPS9700 cooler back on.

My temps increased about 10-13 degrees. This is a great cooler for the money. H50 will be missed


----------



## ThePaperRoute

Can some post a pic of there with a fan shroud on push/pull ? Where can you buy one ?


----------



## Kikaider

Just bought one on sale at Best Buy. Hoping it'll produce the same performance as my Megahalem without the loud noises.


----------



## decimator

I'm interested in how the H50 performs compared to high-end air cooling. I saw the thread in the online deals section where Best Buy is selling them for $60, which seems like a great deal if it performs as well as a Megahalems or an IFX-14 for less money and noise. Anybody have any side-by-side comparisons?


----------



## richardbb85

i mite have to try this for a HTPC setup


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I bought my H50 last saturday, and it was on sale at Best Buy for 20$, thank goodness for price match









I can say that the H50 performs very well in comparison to the TRUE or Mega. I didnt know which to get, but for the price the H50 is cheaper than the Mega. Plus the H50 is smaller, quieter (you dont even hear the pump), less strain on the motherboard. It does considerably well cooling the cpu for how small it is. And you dont have to worry about a fan or the Mega not being able to fit because of tall RAM heatspreaders


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


I bought my H50 last saturday, and it was on sale at Best Buy for 20$, thank goodness for price match









I can say that the H50 performs very well in comparison to the TRUE or Mega. I didnt know which to get, but for the price the H50 is cheaper than the Mega. Plus the H50 is smaller, quieter (you dont even hear the pump), less strain on the motherboard. It does considerably well cooling the cpu for how small it is. And you dont have to worry about a fan or the Mega not being able to fit because of tall RAM heatspreaders










What about temps at idle and load? Higher or lower than a Megahalems or a TRUE or an IFX-14? I know there are plenty of variables like ambient temps and amount and type of TIM used, but just trying to get a general idea here...


----------



## ShortySmalls

just bought me one at bb today for $60 and im about to install it. just wanted to watch the video one last time before i taek my whole computer apart


----------



## xd_1771

Looks like I'm going H50 in around February when my balance hits $500 and I can get this, $50 worth of other crap and a 32 gig iTouch. My current Dark Knight will go in a family computer I'll build sometime soon








Now if only it was still on sale...


----------



## hondajt

What should I fill my H50 with? I am draining it now.

I want something with the longest change time as possible, and something that will not cause wear/damage to the H50 rad or pump. I heard that the 90% distilled water and 10% coolant/antifreeze wasn't good for mixed metals like the H50.


----------



## Kikaider

Well, I'm pleased. Granted, putting the thing on was somewhat annoying, it was a good buy.

Going from a Megahalem with a loud Panaflo to this, the temps are at around 44c idle/55c load @ stock speed. So basically it performs at atleast the same pace as a top-notch cooler. If you hate noise, then this is a pretty great little upgrade.

I should get better temps when I use a second fan or perhaps get something like a san-ace, which should give a better reading than the Megahalem. I suppose I can use the old heatsink on a server or something.

Now I'm going to have to get used to no sound.









Also, *cough* did you use thermal compound? I didn't have any so I was stuck with using the little pad on it.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Well my rig below, idle temps Im getting 35C full load at 40/1C. I havent overclocked the CPU yet. Im also using a push/pull setup with Cooler Master R4 fans, with the rad in the front of the case. Motherboard temp is 34C. Room temps are 80 F (32C). Also another note: i pressure modded the H50. *which you can read about several pages back*
Im using AS5 as well. I may in the future get some better fans, and possible lap the H50 and the cpu itself.

Hope this helps you guys


----------



## Ghoxt

Was a pain to learn the hard way that I didnt have enough space for 2 shrouds as well for the setup, but normal push / pull seems to work great so far. Took me an hour of research and then a half hour to get my system to 4Ghz and seemingly stable.









Attachment 135350

Attachment 135351


----------



## elementskater706

I just bought one from Worst Buy (Actually was the Best Buy this time!). I'll be installing it tomorrow in my Corsair 800D. Will post a pic when I get it going.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
*Sorry, dont have time to update the front page until Friday night. New Years celebrations at the Killhouse household - rest assured that I will read every post that I've missed on Friday night, and will add people, rep people, and comment as appropriate. Cheers for waiting!*

One more day, I will get to you all


----------



## MNiceGuy

I could really use some insight on this thing. It's recommended that the fan this is attached to be in intake fan; usually this means flipping an exhaust around. In some cases like the Obsidian this works quite well but what about in other, more typical cases?

I have an H50 sitting here and I'm planning on buying a Lian Li mid-tower with a single intake and exhaust fan.

Would I flip both? What temp hit can I expect by NOT flipping the fans?


----------



## pluke the 2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy* 
I could really use some insight on this thing. It's recommended that the fan this is attached to be in intake fan; usually this means flipping an exhaust around. In some cases like the Obsidian this works quite well but what about in other, more typical cases?

I have an H50 sitting here and I'm planning on buying a Lian Li mid-tower with a single intake and exhaust fan.

Would I flip both? What temp hit can I expect by NOT flipping the fans?











Sorry the power supply isn't their, but it would be right above the corsair unit


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy* 
I could really use some insight on this thing. It's recommended that the fan this is attached to be in intake fan; usually this means flipping an exhaust around. In some cases like the Obsidian this works quite well but what about in other, more typical cases?

I have an H50 sitting here and I'm planning on buying a Lian Li mid-tower with a single intake and exhaust fan.

Would I flip both? What temp hit can I expect by NOT flipping the fans?


If you only have a single intake and a single exhaust, I would see best to put the h50 as an exhaust instead of having two intakes. You still need to consider case airflow because you have your other components to worry about. I have mine at the top in the front of my case, with a 200mm top exhaust and a 120 rear exhaust. So as air is bein pushed inside, its quickly being pulled out from the top. You dont just want hot air to circulate inside a case.


----------



## Genius2.0

What 120mm fans do you recommend for the H50 for best results?

Thanks


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Fans with the highest cfm, that is if you dont care about noise...


----------



## pluke the 2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Genius2.0* 
What 120mm fans do you recommend for the H50 for best results?

Thanks

Do you care about noise?


----------



## Genius2.0

No, i just want ones with high static pressure and air flow. Any spring to mind?


----------



## tlxxxsracer

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-004-_-Product

Im possibly going to get two of these in push/pull in the near future.


----------



## Genius2.0

Are there any with high static pressure for the radiator and good airflow?


----------



## ShortySmalls

well im abit pissed off about mine, after spending like 2 hours taking ym whoel pc apart to get the thing, it it sprang a leak on the hose right after the rad :-(, so i took it back to best buy got my $65 back as they were all sold out :-(


----------



## Kikaider

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-004-_-Product

Im possibly going to get two of these in push/pull in the near future.


Well, if you can deal with a leaf blower in your computer, good luck.

6 months with a panaflo fan drove me nuts, and I didn't even realize it until I used a quiet fan again.


----------



## richardbb85

will this kit fit in the antec 300 case?


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *richardbb85* 
will this kit fit in the antec 300 case?

In more ways than one


----------



## hondajt

What I really wanted to kow though:

I am re-filling my H50. I was told to use 90% distilled water and 10% antifreeze. I am headed to Microcenter later today. What should I use (specifically) for the 10%?


----------



## GAMERIG

Everyone, HNY 2010!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hondajt*


What should I fill my H50 with? I am draining it now.

I want something with the longest change time as possible, and something that will not cause wear/damage to the H50 rad or pump. I heard that the 90% distilled water and 10% coolant/antifreeze wasn't good for mixed metals like the H50.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *hondajt*


What I really wanted to kow though:

I am re-filling my H50. I was told to use 90% distilled water and 10% antifreeze. I am headed to Microcenter later today. What should I use (specifically) for the 10%?


Hondajt, Whoa, I was thought you are expert mechanic for auto/ vehicle and your knowledge about radiator, etc. you aren't!?

H50's radiator is aluminum. Anyway Corsair" H50 is actually premixture-distilled water/ Ethylene glycol. did you know that? You can mix distilled water and coolant. You can buy them from any store. I advice you, go target store, they have distilled water for 99cent and antifreeze coolant for 7 bucks.


----------



## McLaren_F1

Just installed the H50 to my machine, what are some ideal idle temps for a i7 at 3.9-4.0GHz?


----------



## Newbie2009

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*


Just installed the H50 to my machine, what are some ideal idle temps for a i7 at 3.9-4.0GHz?


Did you go push/pull?


----------



## hondajt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


Anyway Corsair" H50 is actually premixture-distilled water/ Ethylene glycol.


Thanks!

Which side is in, and which side is out?

Preview:


----------



## sintricate

I'm thinking about picking one of these up today since I see they're $60 at bestbuy. Is this thing quiet at all?

The reason I want it is because my Tuniq tower and thermaltake fan are too loud. I want something a bit quieter.

Also I see some of you talking about draining your h50 and filling it with something else. Is there something wrong with the h50 as it comes out of the box? Why are you changing fluids? I don't feel like having to maintain a water cooling set up which is how it's advertised.


----------



## wire

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sintricate*


I'm thinking about picking one of these up today since I see they're $60 at bestbuy. Is this thing quiet at all?

The reason I want it is because my Tuniq tower and thermaltake fan are too loud. I want something a bit quieter.


I can't hear the pump at all. The only thing I hear are my fans. So I guess if you use quiet fans, you shouldn't have a problem with the noise.


----------



## Newbie2009

Attachment 135394

Add me please


----------



## hondajt

^^wow, holy cable management batman!

You might get better airflow to the rest of the board by trying to hide some of those cables.


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Newbie2009*


Did you go push/pull?


Yes I did push/pull. Ambient temp is 20-22.


----------



## Newbie2009

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*


Yes I did push/pull. Ambient temp is 20-22.


Grand. I have the air coming in and a Nochua 140mm fan on top sucking it out.
Similar Ambient temps.
Mobo temp 32c, will go up to 38-40 under strain for a few hours.

Love this corsair H50!


----------



## McLaren_F1

My idle temps are high 30's with the H50, is this what I should expect?

but I didn't lower the voltage since I change coolers. I'll play around with the vcore. Was doing 3.9GHz @ 1.35 with my previous cooler.

I'll report back.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hondajt* 

Which side is in, and which side is out?












Hope that helps


----------



## wire

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Hope that helps

I'd love to do some clear tubing. I'm just scared that I'll do it and then something happens where I won't be able to use the warranty. lol


----------



## Pinoytrek

add me please, pictures to follow. Got my i7 920 running @ 4.2ghz 24/7 using the H50. idle at 41c load @ 77/78c on prime95 for an hour - push/pull set up. Love my h50!


----------



## hondajt

I'm almost done, just trying to get the air out. I think I am going to add a "t" to the system to get the rest of the air out. I still have a "ton" of air!


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hondajt*


I'm almost done, just trying to get the air out. I think I am going to add a "t" to the system to get the rest of the air out. I still have a "ton" of air!

image


Good luck getting the air out, you should easily get most of that out.

Nice photo btw, nice too see that.


----------



## TheTurk

Finally got my UV light


----------



## hondajt

^^Is that clear tubing? Or just UV kink wrap?


----------



## TheTurk

just a UV Spiral around the original tubing...
I cant trust myself with modding the H50 if i did id def. do clear tubes with some UV colored liquid and 240 rad but like i said i sux with that stuff and prolly make a mess


----------



## Kikaider

I admit, I was a bit worried, since I haven't really read anything on if this would do well on a Core i7 900 series processor, but from my experience, I've come to the conclusion that the Corsair H50 is on par with a top heatsink with a $20 fan, well on my Core i7 920 that is.

Granted, temperatures are around 70c when OCed and all cores at 100%, this is what I got with my previous cooler. The thing is, it is nice to not have to hear a ridiculously loud fan.

I've also concluded from experience that a really fast fan (Panaflo) vs. the fan it comes with shrouded with the fan that used to be in the back are basically the same, thus no need for some incredibly loud leaf blower, I mean fan.

I wish I took screenshots with the Megahalem and with the H50, but I suppose I forgot.

Now, I wonder if I decided to do push-pull to go with this if there would be any difference.

And I wonder, would using a fan like a San-Ace/Delta or perhaps a Slipstream would do anything with lowering heat?


----------



## RoleT

This is my first water cooling operation, and overclocking also. I'm waiting for some new fans to do push/pull, but I couldn't resist putting clear tubes on. For the time being i don't have any anti-freeze in it







; just water and some highlighter dye. Replacing the tubes was a pain in the ass, just remember to get "3/8 tubing" otherwise they wont fit on the block/pump correctly.

Just got it for Christmas with a new asus motherboard and 2.8ghz athlonIIx4. Running at 3.04ghz.










Pics of my rig don't want to show up... so here are the links.

http://img145.imageshack.us/i/img0847o.jpg/
http://img156.imageshack.us/i/img0843f.jpg/
http://img140.imageshack.us/i/img0844y.jpg/
http://img228.imageshack.us/i/img0846pk.jpg/

Temps... http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/6517/temps.png


----------



## TheTurk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kikaider* 
I admit, I was a bit worried, since I haven't really read anything on if this would do well on a Core i7 900 series processor, but from my experience, I've come to the conclusion that the Corsair H50 is on par with a top heatsink with a $20 fan, well on my Core i7 920 that is.

Granted, temperatures are around 70c when OCed and all cores at 100%, this is what I got with my previous cooler. The thing is, it is nice to not have to hear a ridiculously loud fan.

I've also concluded from experience that a really fast fan (Panaflo) vs. the fan it comes with shrouded with the fan that used to be in the back are basically the same, thus no need for some incredibly loud leaf blower, I mean fan.

I wish I took screenshots with the Megahalem and with the H50, but I suppose I forgot.

Now, I wonder if I decided to do push-pull to go with this if there would be any difference.

And I wonder, would using a fan like a San-Ace/Delta or perhaps a Slipstream would do anything with lowering heat?

push/pull wil def. give you better temps even if its not a loud fan








my high is 61 at load with 920 oced to 3.9 with ultra kaze 3k (it is pretty loud tho)


----------



## goonies

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheTurk* 
Finally got my UV light


















im going to do something similar and that blue matches great with the blue LEDs is that the primochill uv blue coil 1/2" or swifttech uv blue smart coil?


----------



## Killhouse

*Updated since my last post, sorry for the delay - New Years celebrations







* - 136 members now.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheTurk* 
Finally got my UV light









That is incredibly sexy, cant wait to order some UV coils for my own rig, once I've finished building the case









Quote:


Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1* 
My idle temps are high 30's with the H50, is this what I should expect?

but I didn't lower the voltage since I change coolers. I'll play around with the vcore. Was doing 3.9GHz @ 1.35 with my previous cooler.

I'll report back.

Sounds fairly normal, if you look back through this thread you'll find someone with similiar specs and temp reports. Are you running push/pull?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sintricate* 
Also I see some of you talking about draining your h50 and filling it with something else. Is there something wrong with the h50 as it comes out of the box? Why are you changing fluids? I don't feel like having to maintain a water cooling set up which is how it's advertised.

Nothing wrong with it, I believe people are asking because they're thinking of replacing the tubing.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls* 
well im abit pissed off about mine, after spending like 2 hours taking ym whoel pc apart to get the thing, it it sprang a leak on the hose right after the rad :-(, so i took it back to best buy got my $65 back as they were all sold out :-(

Sorry dude, geuss you got a bad egg. These things happen, good luck getting your hands on another.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Fans with the highest cfm, that is if you dont care about noise...

Static Pressure is also _very_ important, some fans are tuned for high airflow but as soon as you put an obstacle in their way (a radiator or heatsink fins) their airflow drops. Some excellent information can be found in the air cooling forums.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy* 
I could really use some insight on this thing. It's recommended that the fan this is attached to be in intake fan; usually this means flipping an exhaust around. In some cases like the Obsidian this works quite well but what about in other, more typical cases?

There is quite an in-depth answer to this in the partially finished FAQ on the front page. Every case is different but I hope it helps to answer your question.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Well my rig below, idle temps Im getting 35C full load at 40/1C. I havent overclocked the CPU yet. Im also using a push/pull setup with Cooler Master R4 fans, with the rad in the front of the case. Motherboard temp is 34C. Room temps are 80 F (32C). Also another note: i pressure modded the H50. *which you can read about several pages back*
Im using AS5 as well. I may in the future get some better fans, and possible lap the H50 and the cpu itself.

Hope this helps you guys

Great work on the pressure mod, seems like you're getting some impressive results!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kikaider* 
Well, I'm pleased. Granted, putting the thing on was somewhat annoying, it was a good buy.

Going from a Megahalem with a loud Panaflo to this, the temps are at around 44c idle/55c load @ stock speed. *So basically it performs at atleast the same pace as a top-notch cooler.* If you hate noise, then this is a pretty great little upgrade.

*I should get better temps when I use a second fan or perhaps get something like a san-ace, which should give a better reading than the Megahalem.* I suppose I can use the old heatsink on a server or something.

Now I'm going to have to get used to no sound.









Also, *cough* did you use thermal compound? I didn't have any so I was stuck with using the little pad on it.

Great to see someone moving from a mega to an H50. Finally a valid comparison between the two, and its a good one!







Many of us moved to MX3 or AS5 btw, helps drop the temps a little.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
What about temps at idle and load? Higher or lower than a Megahalems or a TRUE or an IFX-14? I know there are plenty of variables like ambient temps and amount and type of TIM used, but just trying to get a general idea here...

See the quote above, the H50 is on par with high end air coolers, and has many other advantages such as being compact. And you can brag to your mates about having a watercooled PC









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ThePaperRoute* 
Can some post a pic of there with a fan shroud on push/pull ? Where can you buy one ?

Most modding stores sell them but by far the cheapest method is to take an old fan, tear out the blades, motor and supports and just use the chassis from it. If you've got an old fan lying around this is a very cheap and effective way to make a fan shroud.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *enigma1934* 
add me. New HTPC build, setup as push/pull exhaust. i have no previous temp readings.

Added, very nice temps there.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *svtfmook* 
some new pics of mine

*Beautiful*









Quote:


Originally Posted by *antonio8* 
Some temp test set up. Sorry for not posting pics. I do not trust if my readings are correct. During test setup I changed everything to stock (no overclock) to try and have test as similar as possible.

As you can see my set up in the sig section I had installed the clear sided option on my case (no fan or ventilation). The H50 at rear of case push/pull intake. One 200mm top fan exhuast. One front 200mm fan intake. One 120mm fan bottom of case intake.

Idle temps around 19Â°-22Â° using core temp. At load highest was 32Â°. At night it gets down to about 16Â°. Ambient temp is about 26Â°. Also graphics card shows 50Â° at idle (gtx275) and 8800gt at 42Â°.

I decided to put on the vented side cover which has a 200mm fan. Everything else stays the same.

The first as intake. The cpu went to idle about 23Â°-25Â° and the graphics card went to 48Â° (gtx275). I believe the cpu went up because the second graphic card exhaust heat inside case (8800gt) ant the side panel fan blew heat up.

So I changed the side panel fan as exhaust the cpu went back to 20Â°-21Â° but the gtx275 now idles at 60Â°









So I am still trying other ways. I will try the push/pull H50 as an exhaust setup and other combos.

Any help or ideas are welcome.

Interesting results, I think you may find the push/pull exhaust will work quite well.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AndyWxy* 
Add me plz! Im among the guys above! Oh yes!! I love my H50!

You can check it below from my youtube vid. ;-)

Great video, +







. rep virginity taken









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BoxingSurfer* 
Another one for the club.

[...]

Brand new build. Merry Christmas









i've got my H50 rad fans in a push/pull configuration, drawing air into the case. I'm using the supplied H50 fan with an Antec TriCool fan i had spare. This fan is set to 'medium' speed.

You can't see it in the picture but there is another 120mm TriCool fan mounted at the front of the case, in front of the (empty) upper drive cage. Theres a spot cooler on the inside of that cage too, just to help airflow in the case. Its just about visible in the photo.

With the exception of the extra fan on the radiator which is set to 'medium' speed, all of the other speed adjustable fans on the case are set to 'low'. The H50 fan is pegged to 100% in BIOS of course.

Here's something that tries to illustrate how the air is moving.

[....]

My Core i7 is overclocked from 2.9GHz to 3.8GHz. Not extreme, but enought for me for the time being.

The idle temp of each core is about 3 - 4Â°C above ambient room temp
At 100% load with Prime95 or Intel Burn Test running for over an hour, i havent exceeded 76Â°C, on any of the cores. HT and Turbo are not disabled

System temp is between 35 and 40Â°C

This seems completely in line with the test results published by Corsair for the Core i7 870 in the push pull performance guide:

http://blog.corsair.com/?p=987

I'm happy with that.
Also happy that the fans running at those speeds keeps the system really quiet. Quieter than my old AMD x2 4600+







I thought that i might need higher fan speeds to get decent results, but low settings are not anything ugly.

For sure I'm going to recommending this cooler to some other people I know who might be interested.

B

Very nice rig, congratulations. And thank you for that link. +









Quote:


Originally Posted by *holgate* 
i have my setup as a push/pull at the current moment

@ killhouse
if this is normal then i can deal with that but i am trying to get 4.0 stable if not i will settle for 3.8 or 3.9

edit: i think ill try 220x17 later when i get home to see how it performs under prime95 and occt

It's pretty normal but keep going at that OC, I think you can get more juice of it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chizzau* 
quick question, will using fans with different cfm for a push/pull setup cause any kind of airflow bottlenecks?

The pull fan should have a lower CFM than the static pressure CFM of the push fan in order to not cause a bottleneck. Unfortunately this is very hard to measure







It wont matter too much though. The best method is to experiment if you want every last bit of performance out of this.

*Cheers guys, keep it coming!*


----------



## RoleT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hondajt* 
I'm almost done, just trying to get the air out. I think I am going to add a "t" to the system to get the rest of the air out. I still have a "ton" of air!










I feel you man. When i did this I was about ready to start punchin' *****es... I ended up using a cup for a reservoir until I felt all of the air was out. But it wasn't. However it runs perfect without bubbles as long as you aren't shacking it or something.


----------



## Killhouse

a T-line as you originally suggested should work well Hondajt


----------



## elementskater706

Here is the finished product:



















Here's one with my helper AJ:










I started it up for first time and went into the bios and the computer shut off within 30 seconds. Here's what happened:










I didn't plug the pump in correctly and it never turned on. DOH! My cpu overheated and shutdown. Does the intel thermal shutdown work? Yes, yes it does.

This was coming from a Megahalem with 2 slipstreams in a push/pull. The temps are about 1C cooler. I have the same 2 slipstreams on the H50 exhausting out the back.

My temps are about 39, 36, 39, 36 at idle and 77, 76, 77, 74 loaded with Prime95 overclocked to 4.1Ghz with 1.35v. 22C ambient temps.

P.S. My cpu still works and the pump works too!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *elementskater706*


Does the intel thermal shutdown work? Yes, yes it does.










nice!

Nice build too


----------



## kev_b

I'm swapping cases from my 2nd Scout case back to my Lian Li and also switching back to my gigabyte board, right now I am waiting on a 140mm Noctua fan and a hard drive, then I can see what my H50 will do in this case in preparation of another Lian Li build later this month with a simular case.


----------



## Dolo001

Got my H50 yesterday i love it no problem installing on a evga classified E759


----------



## dkev

Mine is loaded in an Antec P180 Mini. H50 is shrouded in a pull config using a CM R4


----------



## xquisit

I was thinking about doing a cool paint scheme consisting of a UV cathode + Yard marking paint (that is UV reactive).

Can I spray the tubing, and over the part that says Corsair on the H50?

What about on the fans themselves?


----------



## TheTurk

Sure you can but i suggest you get UV paint thats made for exclusivly for the job ..since most paints use different chemicals youll never know how its gonna react on computer parts... Anyways if you have frys or microcenter where you live they carry those uv paints


----------



## halifax1

My temps have increased randomly. Not enough to make me think something is wrong, but at first I thought there was a leak of some sort. I tried a different fan configuration by using the push/pull as exhaust fans so maybe that's the problem. Not sure.


----------



## xquisit

I might have to ditch my CoolerMaster RED LED fans for my intake push/pull and get a real fan set up... I knew this would happen, but I could definately put the RED LEDs to use in the front of my case (hopefully I can fit 3).

I have a frys near me, can you point me into the right direction into what to look for?


----------



## halifax1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xquisit*


I might have to ditch my CoolerMaster RED LED fans for my intake push/pull and get a real fan set up... I knew this would happen, but I could definately put the RED LEDs to use in the front of my case (hopefully I can fit 3).

I have a frys near me, can you point me into the right direction into what to look for?


The Fry's in Webster I went to a few days ago had the worst selection of fans possible.

I would grab some fans of Performance-PCs or Petras.


----------



## xquisit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *halifax1*


The Fry's in Webster I went to a few days ago had the worst selection of fans possible.

I would grab some fans of Performance-PCs or Petras.


I paid shipping for these fans, but everything else in my sig was free shipping.

I would purchase the new fans on newegg, and hopefully they have some UV ones. If not, I can paint them right?


----------



## Killhouse

Check the build log in my sig (update 3+4). I painted my fans flourescent orange (also UV reactive). The bottom one, obviously


















I took tips from this guide.


----------



## RoleT

What do you think about this case? Nothing really fits in it & the plexi is really foggy.

Also my photos from my previous post didn't show up so here they are. This is my first water cooling operation.


----------



## Killhouse

Looks cool, you could really do with some cable management though


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Looks cool, *you could really do with some cable management* though









2+ that..


----------



## RoleT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Looks cool, you could really do with some cable management though










Hahaha. Yeah It is a lot better than before. I'm still waiting on some round IDE cable







. There really isn't much more i could do with this case, and it doesn't look so bad in person. just bad camera angles:swearing:


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RoleT*


Hahaha. Yeah It is a lot better than before. I'm still waiting on some round IDE cable







. There really isn't much more i could do with this case, and it doesn't look so bad in person. just bad camera angles:swearing:


Try to get some sleeving and heatshrink. This is where I get mine, but I'm in the UK. It's cheap and makes everything look tidy - instead of 24 wires going from the PSU to the MoBo you just have 1 big pretty one







etc etc.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RoleT*


What do you think about this case? Nothing really fits in it & the plexi is really foggy.

Also my photos from my previous post didn't show up so here they are. This is my first water cooling operation.











Aww Man, I did not notice that you modded H50's tube. you are total creative!

REP+


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


Aww Man, I did not notice that you modded H50's tube. you are total creative!


The green does look really cool - is it green dye or green tubing?

EDIT: I spy the UV CCFL.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


The green does look really cool - is it green dye or green tubing?

EDIT: I spy the UV CCFL.


KH, I believe that its distilled water mix with anti-freeze coolant...


----------



## chizzau

I'm getting about 41-43c on my E8400 with 3.0ghz under idle using realtemp. Can anyone verify that these are the right temps? I was getting about the same with my Zalman 9700. Am I doing something wrong here?


----------



## RoleT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


The green does look really cool - is it green dye or green tubing?

EDIT: I spy the UV CCFL.


I now you guys are gunna hate on me for this... Its tap water







with some ink from a highlighter marker. There is no gunk however. When i feel apt to do so i will use distilled and some anti freeze.


----------



## GAMERIG

For Non users, who interesting to get H50?

Here is good deal-
*CORSAIR CWCH50 HYDRO SERIES H50* for 69.99


----------



## MRHANDS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chizzau*


I'm getting about 41-43c on my E8400 with 3.0ghz under idle using realtemp. Can anyone verify that these are the right temps? I was getting about the same with my Zalman 9700. Am I doing something wrong here?


I was getting the same idle temps with my old xigmatek. The load temps are what changed.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RoleT* 
I now you guys are gunna hate on me for this... Its tap water







with some ink from a highlighter marker. There is no gunk however. When i feel apt to do so i will use distilled and some anti freeze.

Rolet, Ha I aint hate you.. but i think you are crazy nut! lol..Mm.. tap water with dye/ink will blow H50's pump, block, and flow by clogging in few months.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RoleT* 
I now you guys are gunna hate on me for this... Its tap water







with some ink from a highlighter marker. There is no gunk however. When i feel apt to do so i will use distilled and some anti freeze.









I would replace that water preeeeeetty soon if I were you!


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
The green does look really cool - is it green dye or green tubing?

EDIT: I spy the UV CCFL.

Wow, you proved me that you are right..


----------



## RoleT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
Rolet, Ha I aint hate you.. but i think you are crazy nut! lol..Mm.. tap water with dye/ink will blow H50's pump, block, and flow by clogging in few months.

Ha, ok I will get on changing that soon. The funny thing is... I put a yellow highlighter in it, and its green lmao









ALSO: what do you guys think about putting in a reservoir? Like one of those tiny clear swiftec ones? The main purpose would be to get all the air out.


----------



## GAMERIG

I just find some pictures from *VooDoo Black Bird* by *HP*.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Wow, this is great! I think my Artic silver 5 is beginning to settle in. Idle my temps are 31C.
Im going to start Overclocking this coming week


----------



## McLaren_F1

For setting up a "push/pull" config, is this how to setup the fans?

Fan Air ->Radiator<-?


----------



## Newbie2009

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*


For setting up a "push/pull" config, is this how to setup the fans?

Fan Air ->Radiator<-?


nope it would be ->Radiator-> or <-radiator<-

Fans going in same direction. Up to you if you want it sucking air out to inside the case or inside to outside.


----------



## r34p3rex

Picked up mine at best buy for $50 yesterday







I'd post pics, but my current setup is a mess (no case!)


----------



## Pings

You want the <-Radiator<- like that. People tend to get better temps in exhaust. Think about it, you GFX card pumps out the hottest air your PC produces. Hot air rises only to be sucked back into the coil of your radiator. Your radiator is based off a very simple heat exchange. The H50's heat exchange does not work as well as when it's set up in rear intake. Set it up in rear exhaust. I can't recommend this cooler enough.


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


You want the <-Radiator<- like that. People tend to get better temps in exhaust. Think about it, you GFX card pumps out the hottest air your PC produces. Hot air rises only to be sucked back into the coil of your radiator. Your radiator is based off a very simple heat exchange. The H50's heat exchange does not work as well as when it's set up in rear intake. Set it up in rear exhaust. I can't recommend this cooler enough.


This depends entirely on your set up. Corsair recommends bringing in ambient air from the back. But only because there are too many hardware and case variations to state different. If you have side panel fans I recommend keeping the rad fan as exhaust and installing a fan shroud between the fan and the rad. The fan should be pulling air through the rad as exhaust. You will also not need a push fan by doing it this way. As long as you have ample supply and good air flow, you will not see any change in cpu temps and you will lower system temps because your not dumping that heat from the cpu into the case.


----------



## Newbie2009

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


You want the <-Radiator<- like that. People tend to get better temps in exhaust. Think about it, you GFX card pumps out the hottest air your PC produces. Hot air rises only to be sucked back into the coil of your radiator. Your radiator is based off a very simple heat exchange. The H50's heat exchange does not work as well as when it's set up in rear intake. Set it up in rear exhaust. I can't recommend this cooler enough.


To be honest I really think there is mabye a 1% difference in temps. Review I seen suggested the differences in intake/exhause are minimal. If you have a 140mm exhause on top then either way is grand.
I would recommended using a good 1st fan though. I have a nochua running 100% sucking air in and the fan that comes with the H50 on the other side.
The 2nd fan barely never moves in idle and yet to see it even hit full rpm under load.
Sames opinion pings, this cooler is way better than I imagined it would be.


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


You want the <-Radiator<- like that. People tend to get better temps in exhaust. Think about it, you GFX card pumps out the hottest air your PC produces. Hot air rises only to be sucked back into the coil of your radiator. Your radiator is based off a very simple heat exchange. The H50's heat exchange does not work as well as when it's set up in rear intake. Set it up in rear exhaust. I can't recommend this cooler enough.


Thanks for the suggestion.

i just want to double check if i installed this correct.

The Package came with 8 screws. Which set of 4 do i use? Theres a set with "fat" ends and the other set.

i installed the "other" set.


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Newbie2009* 
To be honest I really think there is mabye a 1% difference in temps. Review I seen suggested the differences in intake/exhause are minimal. If you have a 140mm exhause on top then either way is grand.
I would recommended using a good 1st fan though. I have a nochua running 100% sucking air in and the fan that comes with the H50 on the other side.
The 2nd fan barely never moves in idle and yet to see it even hit full rpm under load.
Sames opinion pings, this cooler is way better than I imagined it would be.

With the setup I recommend, here are my current temps.









Temp 1 is my system temp.


----------



## Newbie2009

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
With the setup I recommend, here are my current temps.









Temp 1 is my system temp.

Nice, thats what 20-25c. What voltage you running for 4.1ghz? 1.46 or 1.9? One seems low, the other seems crazily high lol


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Newbie2009* 
Nice, thats what 20-25c. What voltage you running for 4.1ghz? 1.46 or 1.9? One seems low, the other seems crazily high lol

System temp is 21c which is ambient temp. Cpu is 23c. 1.47 is the voltage.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

any q6600 owners that push alot of voltages im wonder what your temps are im thinking of getting one of these coolers but not sure if its worth it.


----------



## wire

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf* 
any q6600 owners that push alot of voltages im wonder what your temps are im thinking of getting one of these coolers but not sure if its worth it.

How much is a lot of voltage?

I run 3.5 ghz with 1.42 volts and my max temp is 57C. I idle in the low 30s.


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
When I 1st learned the H50 by default is rear intake. I thought that this makes no sense to have it in rear intake. Heat rises, heat also goes to cooler air. With the H50 cool air is being directed into the rear of the case. Now what is below the the H50 in most cases? It's your GFX card. The air handler of most GFX cards force hot air out the rear of your case. Naturally heat rises, then only to be sucked back into your case, then it crosses the coil of your radiator. But, the H50 is based off a very simple method of heat exchange. So is heat exchanging as well as if it was cooler air, and not hot air being blown across the coil of your radiator? From what I have learned in heating and air-conditioning school, the answer is no.

I don't care what Corsair say they're wrong. I'm sorry but the H50 works better in exhaust. There is data to back up what I'm saying. Here is one post you can look at that proves it, and its not the only one. I've also seen reviews prove that it works better in exhaust, because it does. Now not everyone is going to have the same results. Like we say in the HVAC field "typically". Typically you are going to get better results in exhaust. It might be one degree, it might be 3 or 4 degrees like it was with me. Like with my set up there is a lot of hot air behind my case. Its so hot I closed the register off from my furnace so warm air can't get into my room. Really my PC heats my room, it takes a long time to heat it, but it still does it. Its so hot back their it makes no sense to to have the H50 in rear intake. Also check out this minor Velcro mod, so fresh air enters the front of my case.


----------



## closeracing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mav2000* 
Am not completely bowled over with the results, but maybe theres something wrong...just want to check with u guys....I have mounted it with the tubes on the top side of the case and the corsair logo right side up. I used Mx2, using a card to spread it over the CPU and I have two yateloons at high speed on the rad pushing air out of the case. I have two 60-70 cfm fans on the side window pushing air in...so I am really wondering what the issue here is.

Its also takes a good amount of time to cool down...is this normal...my pump runs at around 1300-1350 rpm and is on 100% all the time. The two yateloons are running at 2000 rpm all the time....i tried the rad out with 1450 GT's and the yateloons make little to no difference while being a lot louder...what do u guys suggest?

Man, my Baram was better than this.

You might try pulling cold air from outside your case through the radiator and reversing 1 of your case fans to exhaust the hot air. I did this and it helped quite a bit. It may depend on your case too. Mine has a 240mm fan in the side and a 230 mm fan on top. there is no hot air exhaust from the back below the radiator inlet. My system temps are generally higher than my cpu temps unless im benching.


----------



## dkev

Even if there is no improvement. Lets say the cpu temps are the same. It's still a win situation because your not dumping that hot air into the case. And I'm telling you guys, install a fan shroud. Your removing that dead spot around the fan hub and you will see an improvement and the fan will be quieter.


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
Even if there is no improvement. Lets say the cpu temps are the same. *It's still a win situation because your not dumping that hot air into the case*. And I'm telling you guys, install a fan shroud. Your removing that dead spot around the fan hub and you will see an improvement and the fan will be quieter.

Nice point about the the heat exchanged warm aim inside your case. I would like to see pics of your H50 with a fan shroud if you have 'em...


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


Nice point about the the heat exchanged warm aim inside your case. I would like to see pics of your H50 with a fan shroud if you have 'em...












I will post better pictures next week once I get my new fans in.


----------



## Pings

What does the fan shroud do exactly? Do you see a difference from the fan shroud (fan shroud vs no fan shroud)? Temperature wise that is.


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


What does the fan shroud do exactly? Do you see a difference from the fan shroud (fan shroud vs no fan shroud)? Temperature wise that is.


Yes you do see about a 3c temp drop. But most importantly it eliminates the need for a push fan. When the fan is backed away from the rad in a sealed environment, the dead spot around your fan hub is eliminated and the turbulence is greatly reduced, quieting the fan in the process. Now I am using a CM R4 which are high static fans so performance may vary depending on your fan. But I was pretty shocked at the improvement.

*edit* I did try adding a push fan to this set up..but there was no temp difference.


----------



## Pings

You using the CM R4 Red LED right? I think I gona go find my self a 120mm fan shroud, at Frys or Microcenter.


----------



## hondajt

Anyone try this in a NZXT Beta Evo? I'm wondering if it would do better mounted up top as an exhaust or mounted to the side as an intake?


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hondajt* 
Anyone try this in a NZXT Beta Evo? I'm wondering if it would do better mounted up top as an exhaust or mounted to the side as an intake?

You sure can:










For the billionth time in 99.9% of all cases put the H50 in exhaust.

EDIT: I don't think there is enough room to mount it on the top of your case.


----------



## closeracing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
Even if there is no improvement. Lets say the cpu temps are the same. It's still a win situation because your not dumping that hot air into the case. And I'm telling you guys, install a fan shroud. Your removing that dead spot around the fan hub and you will see an improvement and the fan will be quieter.

I am going to try your suggstion and reverse the fans on the radiator to exhaust. I dont really understand how pushing hot air through the radiator will result in lower temps, but it's worth a try. I'll post the temps when I am done.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Be cool if some of you with q6600s would post your clocks and volts used and your temps your getting.


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *closeracing* 
I am going to try your suggstion and reverse the fans on the radiator to exhaust. I dont really understand how pushing hot air through the radiator will result in lower temps, but it's worth a try. I'll post the temps when I am done.

You dont push it through. You pull it through. And you need to use a fan shroud. Also, if you don't have a good supply (side panel fans) it wont help you much.


----------



## Ragsters

Are these good shrouds? Do you guys any other suggestions?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25682

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=3511


----------



## Ragsters

I have been using the hydro H50 as intake from outside the case since day one and couldn't be happier with my results.


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ragsters* 
Are these good shrouds? Do you guys any other suggestions?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25682

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=3511

Don't spend money on one. Just take an old 120mm fan and cut the fan part out leaving only the housing. And if you cant do that, then find the cheapest fan you can find to make a shroud with.


----------



## xd_1771

AFAIK the pump also has a plug-in. I want to know, is this three-pin or four-pin? Is this better plugged into the motherboard or a power supply, maybe?


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
You dont push it through. You pull it through. And you need to use a fan shroud. Also, if you don't have a good supply (side panel fans) it wont help you much.

awesome, you are evil GENUIS! I never thought of that.. thanks for tip.


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xd_1771* 
AFAIK the pump also has a plug-in. I want to know, is this three-pin or four-pin? Is this better plugged into the motherboard or a power supply, maybe?

The pump is a 4 pin I'm pretty sure. Plug it into your motherboard.


----------



## elementskater706

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dkev*


The pump is a 4 pin I'm pretty sure. Plug it into your motherboard.


The pump is actually a three pin fan header plug.


----------



## chizzau

Yup, the pump is a 3 pin. The fan is 4 pin. I tried plugging the fan into a 3 pin connector but the fan wouldn't spin. Maybe it's just me.


----------



## dkev

LOL I knew one of them was 4 pin. I don't use the stock fan.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *closeracing*


I am going to try your suggstion and reverse the fans on the radiator to exhaust. I dont really understand how pushing hot air through the radiator will result in lower temps, but it's worth a try. I'll post the temps when I am done.


There is a pretty in-depth explanation on the main differences in the first post









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


any q6600 owners that push alot of voltages im wonder what your temps are im thinking of getting one of these coolers but not sure if its worth it.


Sorry, you've asked twice now but it doesent look like any q6600 users are around. If you flick back to the earlier pages there were lots of Intel people around.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*


Thanks for the suggestion.

i just want to double check if i installed this correct.

The Package came with 8 screws. Which set of 4 do i use? Theres a set with "fat" ends and the other set.

i installed the "other" set.


Thats correct









Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Wow, this is great! I think my Artic silver 5 is beginning to settle in. Idle my temps are 31C.
Im going to start Overclocking this coming week


Nice to hear, cheers for all your input around here. +







for general helpfulness!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


I just find some pictures from ...


VERY nice find GAMERIG. If I ever added a cooling block to my H50 it would be a northbridge cooler I think. I really need to start OC'ing more though to find out what I need







+


----------



## Bal3Wolf

No problem prices were to high shipped for the h50 and no bestbuy around me had them in stock so i orderd a Prolimatech Megahalem Rev. B for 67 shipped found some reviews where it kept a [email protected] with 1.45 vcore at 51c that should fit my needs.


----------



## Aznboy1993

Just wondering. Is it better to have a push/pull exhaust or intake? Also I have the Cosmos S so I have the option of mounting the radiator on top, is this better? I've heard mixed reviews about the intake / exhaust setups and was wondering which you guys think would be better... Thanks!


----------



## DOOOLY

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993* 
Just wondering. Is it better to have a push/pull exhaust or intake? Also I have the Cosmos S so I have the option of mounting the radiator on top, is this better? I've heard mixed reviews about the intake / exhaust setups and was wondering which you guys think would be better... Thanks!

I been hearing people say Exhaust but i have not seen any proof.


----------



## Aznboy1993

I currently have it as exhaust (push/pull) but Im thinking of switching because my GPUs dump hot air IN my case not out back and my NB runs pretty hot. I also have 3 fans exhausting on top. I'll have to see. Currently my idle temps are 33C and load is at 58C using IBT.


----------



## ritchwell

Just installed the H50, got a quick question, really did not want to read every post here but Im sure there is a post regarding it. My question is, i want to do push and pull, what is the size of the screw for a 120x25mm fan to hold it on the radiator?


----------



## Dolo001

6/32 2" i used but 3" for the muffin fan


----------



## ritchwell

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dolo001*


6/32 2" i used but 3" for the muffin fan


Is the the answer to my question? regarding screw size needed for push and pull to mount a 120x25mm fan to the radiator.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ritchwell* 
Is the the answer to my question? regarding screw size needed for push and pull to mount a 120x25mm fan to the radiator.

6/32, 1-1/4" long


----------



## ritchwell

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
6/32, 1-1/4" long

When i go to home depot is there a certain type of screw needed?


----------



## dkev

just a machine screw. Wouldn't hurt to use washers with them.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ritchwell* 
When i go to home depot is there a certain type of screw needed?

Take one off your H50 and use it as sample. You maybe want to pick up some #6 washers as well in case you need to shorten the screw a bit. You don't want the screw to hit the rad fins. Typically the case thickness is approximately equal to a washer or two. So if the screw is not going through the case you may want to add washers to make up the difference.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ritchwell*


Just installed the H50, got a quick question, really did not want to read every post here but Im sure there is a post regarding it. My question is, i want to do push and pull, what is the size of the screw for a 120x25mm fan to hold it on the radiator?


The stock screws that came with the cooler is 6-32 x 1Â¼.


----------



## Ragsters

If I want to use a fan shroud should I just add an inch to the length of the screw? Therefor being 6-32 x 2Â¼?


----------



## arbalest

Please add me to the list.

^^ Its super hard to find any 2-1/4" screws... Of course I only checked Home Depot and Lowes. haven't been back home to my parents hometown to see if the local ACE hardware has them.

I'm wanting to run a dual shroud (per skinny's opinions) between the push and pull fans. I like as cool and QUIET as possible


----------



## Newbie2009

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
You sure can:










For the billionth time in 99.9% of all cases put the H50 in exhaust.

EDIT: I don't think there is enough room to mount it on the top of your case.

I really think you are exagerating the effects of sucking air in. Below are my temps.
Attachment 135622


----------



## Dolo001

i personally used some of the included nuts to adjust for the length that was extra, be careful you dont want to puncture the radiator!


----------



## sintricate

I'm not to satisfied with my latest purchase.

I replaced my lapped tuniq tower with the H50 and the temps are 2 degrees cooler at most. This was with a push pull set up with a shroud on the push fan, all done in exhaust mode. What to do...


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sintricate*


I'm not to satisfied with my latest purchase.

I replaced my lapped tuniq tower with the H50 and the temps are 2 degrees cooler at most. This was with a push pull set up with a shroud on the push fan, all done in exhaust mode. What to do...


Lap the H50 or remount.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sintricate*


I'm not to satisfied with my latest purchase.

I replaced my lapped tuniq tower with the H50 and the temps are 2 degrees cooler at most. This was with a push pull set up with a shroud on the push fan, all done in exhaust mode. What to do...


You're kidding right?


----------



## sintricate

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


You're kidding right?


No. I can't find my sense of humor at the moment. Why would you ask me such a question?

With the Tuniq, I was getting 60-61C load, and with the H50 I've hit 58C.

The only thing I can think of is that maybe the H50 should be screwed in tighter but I've screwed it in pretty tight. Not sure how tight it can get before I start stripping it.


----------



## looser101

Not sure how you got the idea that the H50 was a full chat watercooling loop capable of keeping your CPU at close to ambient temperatures (if this was on your mind). It is marketed as a replacement for high-end air cooling. Any minor improvements in temps are just a bonus.


----------



## looser101

So help us out help you. Where is the pump power connected to? And if on the MB can you tell what RPM it runs at.


----------



## sintricate

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Not sure how you got the idea that the H50 was a full chat watercooling loop capable of keeping your CPU at close to ambient temperatures (if this was on your mind). It is marketed as a replacement for high-end air cooling. Any minor improvements in temps are just a bonus.


Im not sure what you mean but I assumed the H50 would be better than a Tuniq Tower. It is quieter with a single fan however and that was my biggest problem. (the noise of a fan at full speed in the Tuniq was fairly loud).

I have the pump plugged into the 4 pin "Sys Fan 1" header and the Corsair fan is plugged into the 3 pin "CPU Fan" header.

The pump is at 1573RPM, and I have the fan control options in the bios disabled.

I never expected ambient temps for my CPU, just at least 5-10C better than the Tuniq.


----------



## looser101

Your case is designed to have very good air flow. Air coolers really shine in well ventilated cases. Some people reporting larger temp drops vs. air cooling could just be using a less well ventilated case. Your temps look pretty good for a O/C quad core. Unfortunately, there are many programs being used for temp testing and at times it's hard to relate to other peoples temp results. It would be nice if we could settle on one program to report temps. It would make it easier to compare. I don't see any issues with your install as you have reported other than some people have mentioned that the shroud should be on the pull fan, I believe.


----------



## sintricate

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
I don't see any issues with your install as you have reported other than some people have mentioned that the shroud should be on the pull fan, I believe.

I want to try this but I think I need longer screws or something else. How's everyone else doing this?


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sintricate* 
I want to try this but I think I need longer screws or something else. How's everyone else doing this?

dunno if this is relevant to you but theres was someone that mounted 2 of these on his H50 blowing out of a case and got really good results.

to everyone else..

http://www.mwave.com/mwave/SKUSearch...iteria=BA50079

68 bucks from mwave.com


----------



## sintricate

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
dunno if this is relevant to you but theres was someone that mounted 2 of these on his H50 blowing out of a case and got really good results.

to everyone else..

http://www.mwave.com/mwave/SKUSearch...iteria=BA50079

68 bucks from mwave.com









Only $59.99 at Best Buy







or at least it was when I bought mine yesterday. The site shows $79.99 now lol.


----------



## SpykeZ

1) Since when the hell does best buy sell anything good.

2)http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Corsair+...0h50&cp=1&lp=1

says 80 for me :|


----------



## looser101

You can get really long screws cut off the head and then use a nut. Or you can buy them longer, say 2.5", and then cut them to fit. You can either use a hacksaw or a wire stripper/crimper which has screw cutting capabilities (something like this). You can easily find them at Lowes/Home Depot. I picked up some really long screws which came with toggle bolts.


----------



## Willhemmens

Got a shroud on now, going to put one on the exhuast too, when the ultra kaze comes. Folding on 2 GPU's and on 2 CPU core's gives 100 percent load on all cores. Load temp at 3.6 is around 29 too 32'c.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sintricate* 
I want to try this but I think I need longer screws or something else. How's everyone else doing this?

I gutted one of my stock CM fans and filed it abit.

I poorly and lazily counter sinked the shroud so i could screw the shourd on like the fan i was using before but without the screw sticking out, stopping the next fan being bent out, leaking air flow.

I then attached the push fan to the shroud with normal self tappers.


----------



## sintricate

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
1) Since when the hell does best buy sell anything good.

2)http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Corsair+...0h50&cp=1&lp=1

says 80 for me :|

Not sure if you saw my post above yours but it was $59.99 at best buy for a while until today. I picked mine up from them yesterday at that price and I guess they changed it today.

Lucky I didn't wait another day


----------



## sintricate

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Got a shroud on now, going to put one on the exhuast too, when the ultra kaze comes. Folding on 2 GPU's and on 2 CPU core's gives 100 percent load on all cores. Load temp at 3.6 is around 29 too 32'c.


32C full load?









Also, the link to your modded h50 in your signature is messed up.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sintricate* 
32C full load?









Also, the link to your modded h50 in your signature is messed up.

33'c full load.










I've fixed the link now, give it a go.


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Newbie2009* 
I really think you are exagerating the effects of sucking air in. Below are my temps.
Attachment 135622

That's cool and all but now you are dumping hot air into the case. Again this is not a very good idea. Now you have hotter ambient air inside your case. Good job, pat your self on the back! Just to let you know I got better temps in exhaust with my 940. I do HVAC for a living, putting the H50 in intake goes against all rules of heat exchange and air flow that I've learned. I'm sorry I can't do it, it goes against everything I have learned. For you guys who think you know what you are talking about, then go for it. I really don't care. For you guys that don't know what you are talking about and would like to learn, put your H50 in exhaust. If you think I'm "exaggerating" (spelled right) the H50 in exhaust. Then you're wrong, some people like your self, don't know what it is, does, and how it works. That's why there are sites like OCN, so people that know what they are talking about can help others who don't. I'm not saying I now everything. Look a few pages back and see me ask dude about this that and the other thing. I'm here to learn and to get better. If you wana do it ass backwards then do it.


----------



## Willhemmens

If the H50 intake air in to the case, you get lower CPU temps and higher case temps.
If the H50 exhausts air out of the case, you get higher CPU temps and lower case temps.

Can we all agree with that?


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
If the H50 intake air in to the case, you get lower CPU temps and higher case temps.
If the H50 exhausts air out of the case, you get higher CPU temps and lower case temps.

Can we all agree with that?

Nope. Depends on your case and your system cooling. I get better temps with H50 exhausting.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
Nope. Depends on your case and your system cooling. I get better temps with H50 exhausting.

Unless you components are chilling the air, i cant see how thats possible.


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Unless you components are chilling the air, i cant see how thats possible.

But yet it is. Not only is it possible but my system temps run near ambient with less then a 3c rise under full load.









Like Pings I also have an HVAC background except I deal more with air delivery systems.


----------



## Newbie2009

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
That's cool and all but now you are dumping hot air into the case. Again this is not a very good idea. Now you have hotter ambient air inside your case. Good job, pat your self on the back! Just to let you know I got better temps in exhaust with my 940. I do HVAC for a living, putting the H50 in intake goes against all rules of heat exchange and air flow that I've learned. I'm sorry I can't do it, it goes against everything I have learned. For you guys who think you know what you are talking about, then go for it. I really don't care. For you guys that don't know what you are talking about and would like to learn, put your H50 in exhaust. If you think I'm "exaggerating" (spelled right) the H50 in exhaust. Then you're wrong, some people like your self, don't know what it is, does, and how it works. That's why there are sites like OCN, so people that know what they are talking about can help others who don't. I'm not saying I now everything. Look a few pages back and see me ask dude about this that and the other thing. I'm here to learn and to get better. If you wana do it ass backwards then do it.

Don't take it personal Pings. My point was the temps I have are so low it is irrelevant. I am not saying you don't know what you are talking about. However I would question, if it is so stupid, why did Corsair recommend it?
You don't need to do HVAC for a living to know it is not normal though.
Like you, I thought it was odd. But I tried it and the temps are fine.

If they were a little higher I might change around the config, but they are not.


----------



## mastical

add me









I came from a zalman 9700. This h50 is 10x better.
Phenom 965 @3.8ghz.
29idle, 41load.
Push pull set up with ultra kaze's on a fan controller.


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Newbie2009* 
Don't take it personal Pings. My point was the temps I have are so low it is irrelevant. I am not saying you don't know what you are talking about. However I would question, if it is so stupid, why did Corsair recommend it?
You don't need to do HVAC for a living to know it is not normal though.
Like you, I thought it was odd. But I tried it and the temps are fine.

If they were a little higher I might change around the config, but they are not.

Corsair recommends it because they can not account for all the different hardware configurations (heat load) case styles, and various system cooling. What works in his or my case may not work in yours. That's why it is only RECOMMENDED that you set your h50 fan as intake.


----------



## Capwn

I use mine as intake. Pumping warm case air thru my rad seems a bit retarted to me.
Fan --- Shroud--- Case wall ---- Rad--- Fan ---->>>Win


----------



## Newbie2009

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dkev*


Corsair recommends it because they can not account for all the different hardware configurations (heat load) case styles, and various system cooling. What works in his or my case may not work in yours. That's why it is only RECOMMENDED that you set your h50 fan as intake.


That is fine, I understand that. But to go around saying it is the worst think you could EVER do and your an idiot if you do it is a tad OTT.

That would make Corsair complete Morons for suggesting something that is 100% incorrect.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dkev*


But yet it is. Not only is it possible but my system temps run near ambient with less then a 3c rise under full load.

-snip-

Like Pings I also have an HVAC background except I deal more with air delivery systems.


Apparently Speedfan is not reading your core temp sensor properly. I don't see any way your core temp would be so low under 100% load.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dkev*


But yet it is. Not only is it possible but my system temps run near ambient with less then a 3c rise under full load. 









Like Pings I also have an HVAC background except I deal more with air delivery systems.


I used speed fan for a while but its not all that good. I recommend you change to core temp or HW monitor.


----------



## tke395

Guys I finally got her stable and made the jump to 3.6 Ghz over the week end!!!!!!! Im getting Idle Temps of 18*c -21*c and Load temps are 35*c-40*c I did Hit a Max up to 62*c while running Prime95 Blend Test for 6 Hours. Blow Im posting my settings for those that own a Q6600 GO (EVGA 780i FTW Motherboard) and need the help getting up to 3.6 while owning a H50.









CPU Freq - 3600.0 Mhz
FSB Reference Clock - 1600Mhz
CPU Multiplier - 9 X
PCIe x16_1 &_2 - 100
PCIe x16_3 - 100
SPP<->MCP Ref Clock - Auto

nForce SPP--->nForce MCP - 5 x
nForce SPP<---- nForce MCP - 5 x

CPU Spread Spectrum - Disabled
HT Spread Spectrum - Disabled
PCIe Spread Spectrum - Disabled
Sata Spread Spectrum - Disabled

FSB - Memory Clock Mode - Linked
FSB - Memory Ratio - Synced
FSB QDR - 1600Mhz
MEM DDR - 800MHz

Memory Timings - Optimal

Limit CPUID MaxVal - Disabled
Intel SpeedStep - Disabled
PPM Mode - Native
CPU Thermal Control - Disabled
C1E Enhanced Halt State - Disabled
Execute Disable Bit - Disabled
Virtualization Techhnology - Disabled

Voltages
EVGA VDroop control - Without VDroop
CPU Core - 1.57500v
CPU FSB - Auto (1.425v)
Memory - Auto (1.900v)
nForce SPP - Auto (1.40v)
nFource MCP - Auto(1.500v)
HT nForce SPP <-> MCP - Auto(1.20v)
CPU PLL - Auto(1.5v)

GTLVREF Lane 0 - Auto(+00mv)
GTLVREF Lane 1 - Auto(+110mv)
GTLVREF Lane 2 - Auto(+00mv)
GTLVREF Lane 3 - Auto(+00mv)

Those are my settings.. Hope these will Help out those in the future !!


----------



## Willhemmens

I dont know that much about intel but isnt 1.575v alot for a q6600?


----------



## tke395

at 3.2 in auto it was setting on its own 1.45 and I have seen higher the main thing is to keep your temps low!!!!! Thats why I own a H50! Plus I plan on trying to slowly bring her down lower ( It doesnt go into the red till 1.50v)


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tke395*


at 3.2 in auto it was setting on its own 1.45 and I have seen higher the main thing is to keep your temps low!!!!! Thats why I own a H50! Plus I plan on trying to slowly bring her down lower ( It doesnt go into the red till 1.50v)


Thats no where near as bad as i thought. sometimes you can easily lower voltages by just getting better cooling but your going to have to pay big buck to improve much more on your temps.


----------



## tke395

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Thats no where near as bad as i thought. sometimes you can easily lower voltages by just getting better cooling but your going to have to pay big buck to improve much more on your temps.


Dude my Idle is 18*c -21*c and my daily use is 35*c - 40*c (thats gaming) and my Max Load running Prime 95 for 6 hours is 62*c I would say my temps are in check! I wont be upgrading from an H50 till I decide to put my 275 gtx's, North and South bridge under water.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


I used speed fan for a while but its not all that good. I recommend you change to core temp or HW monitor.


willhemmens, you are accurate about speed fan is not correct result and information.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tke395*


Dude my Idle is 18*c -21*c and my daily use is 35*c - 40*c (thats gaming) and my Max Load running Prime 95 for 6 hours is 62*c I would say my temps are in check! I wont be upgrading from an H50 till I decide to put my 275 gtx's, North and South bridge under water.


Yeah those temps are fine. If my North bridge got warm i would water cool it but for me its not needed. Neither of my GPU's go over 50'c full load so there isnt much point putting them under water either.


----------



## xmisery

Hey guys, ever since I added the H50, I've been playing around in the BIOS the last day or so and trying to overclock the CPU / RAM and I think this is a good setup now, but, I'm still new to this. Can someone verify if these are good temps for the i7 920 4.0GHz @ 1.168V. My ambient is 23C. (see screenshots)

Thanks in advance!


----------



## closeracing

I tried benching my system both ways and with my case the cpu temp was the same either way, but the system temp actually rose 7 degrees F with the radiator fans exhausting which was pretty unexpected. I am going to try reversing one of the case fans to exhaust to see if that makes a difference. here are the screenshots.


----------



## videoman5




----------



## veblen

Hello all, I went from a Xigmatek S1283 to a Corsair H50 with 2 YL high-speeds and saw load temps drop more than 20 degrees! I got lower idle temps with the Xigmatek but that's to be expected I believe.

I had my H50's fans originally as intake (in push-pull) but after reading some of the posts here, switched them to exhaust and lo-and-behold, load temps dropped about 7-10 degrees, so thanks!


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Apparently Speedfan is not reading your core temp sensor properly. I don't see any way your core temp would be so low under 100% load.

Speedfan works fine. I never said that was a load temp. It's idle. Under load I run about 27c depending on my ambient temps.


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
I used speed fan for a while but its not all that good. I recommend you change to core temp or HW monitor.

Works just fine for me. But here is AMD overdrive. This temp is idle.


----------



## dkev

And my temps under full load


----------



## Killhouse

Busy busy, I'll try to update the mainpage tomorrow.


----------



## Vargess

Just picked up my H50-1 from Bestbuy








I have to send my mobo to RMA so I will be installing it once I get it back and will snap a shot or two when I throw it in


----------



## Aznboy1993

Finally got a pic of it in my system


----------



## lilraver018

http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1025/2/

according to this site

static pressure of the h50 stock fan is

3.57mm

so when looking for a better fan try to go abovw 3.57 mm


----------



## tke395

Does anyone have there CPU at 3.8Ghz or 4.0Ghz Im thinking of pushing mine that far but was wondering will the H50 Hold up to the abuse?


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Something else I find interesting.. It really does matter what kind of case you have and that the case affects cpu temps. My older brother has a huge Cooler Master case. He has the same cpu (unlocked) but has the original cpu amd cooler and is getting the same idle temps as me with this h50. at first I was disappointed but then again i realized the size of my case and the fact that with my original amd cooler i was getting temps about 45C idle and now im idling at 31C


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Something else I find interesting.. It really does matter what kind of case you have and that the case affects cpu temps. My older brother has a huge Cooler Master case. He has the same cpu (unlocked) but has the original cpu amd cooler and is getting the same idle temps as me with this h50. at first I was disappointed but then again i realized the size of my case and the fact that with my original amd cooler i was getting temps about 45C idle and now im idling at 31C


Well it's not so much the size of the case as it is the amount of system cooling you can put into it. I have a mini atx case, but after a few mods I was able to achieve cooling I wasn't able to achieve in other larger cases.


----------



## videoman5

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Something else I find interesting.. It really does matter what kind of case you have and that the case affects cpu temps. My older brother has a huge Cooler Master case. He has the same cpu (unlocked) but has the original cpu amd cooler and is getting the same idle temps as me with this h50. at first I was disappointed but then again i realized the size of my case and the fact that with my original amd cooler i was getting temps about 45C idle and now im idling at 31C

That's still a tad high. I load at 34C Linpack, and idle at 20C. I don't think an extra core should add that much heat.


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lilraver018*


http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1025/2/

according to this site

static pressure of the h50 stock fan is

3.57mm


That is very optimistic. I would be surprised if that fan does more than 2mm.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Something else I find interesting.. It really does matter what kind of case you have and that the case affects cpu temps. My older brother has a huge Cooler Master case. He has the same cpu (unlocked) but has the original cpu amd cooler and is getting the same idle temps as me with this h50. at first I was disappointed but then again i realized the size of my case and the fact that with my original amd cooler i was getting temps about 45C idle and now im idling at 31C


Quote:


Originally Posted by *videoman5* 
That's still a tad high. I load at 34C Linpack, and idle at 20C. I don't think an extra core should add that much heat.

Unlocking the 4th core adds quite alot extra heat, it can be upto 12'c extra.
While i was running a 720 BE i got around 17'c idle and load never went over 30'c but that was at 3.2GHz 1.29v 3 cores. Mine was a 0904 and never overclocked or unlocked very well, struggling to get 3.8Ghz. This 810 i have now idles at around 22'c and loads at 32'c 3.6GHz 1.45v 4 cores.

My case cooling is 2 120 mm fans on the top of case, 2 on front, 2 on rear, 1 on bottom, 2 on side.

The ultra Kaze comes today.









Theres tons of 720 BE overclocking info over at my AMD Phenom II X3 700 Series OC Club.


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mastical* 
add me









I came from a zalman 9700. This h50 is 10x better.
Phenom 965 @3.8ghz.
29idle, 41load.
Push pull set up with ultra kaze's on a fan controller.

Whaaaat?

I'm at 34idle, 58Load!!

Is my H50 seated wrong?

I had someone put it in, that has one (but he uses the intel mount for his i7).

I am using these fans as a push/pull set-up intake.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-063-_-Product

What do you think I should do?


----------



## Newbie2009

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
Whaaaat?

I'm at 34idle, 58Load!!

Is my H50 seated wrong?

I had someone put it in, that has one (but he uses the intel mount for his i7).

I am using these fans as a push/pull set-up intake.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-063-_-Product

What do you think I should do?

That cannot be right. The fans blowing in same direction? I would reseat it. Definitely something wrong there.


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Newbie2009* 
That cannot be right. The fans blowing in same direction? I would reseat it. Definitely something wrong there.

Yes, both fans are facing the same direction.

Can I use the cloth I use to clean my LCD panel to clean off the thermal grease?

What paste do you recommend buying off newegg/frys/bestbuy?

I think I should try re-seating, and then change it to exhaust (just for a comparison).


----------



## mav2000

Those temps dont look right to me...have not seen a C3 do that on proper water, unless its chilled. 41 load is like way out of the ball park of figures I have seen till date. I would probably recheck that.


----------



## Newbie2009

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xquisit*


Yes, both fans are facing the same direction.

Can I use the cloth I use to clean my LCD panel to clean off the thermal grease?

What paste do you recommend buying off newegg/frys/bestbuy?

I think I should try re-seating, and then change it to exhaust (just for a comparison).


I would guess is it not screwed down tightly enough? Arctic Silver I normally use but I used what came with the H50.
Yours does seem high, but @ 41c the other guy does seem low.
For example, my voltage @1.5v peaks at about 50, worst case


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dkev*


Don't spend money on one. Just take an old 120mm fan and cut the fan part out leaving only the housing. And if you cant do that, then find the cheapest fan you can find to make a shroud with.


Did just that and with the fans turned all the way up I get around 24Â°C, with them turned all the way down I get about 26/27Â°C. This simple shroud mod works very well, it worked for me. I recommend this to anyone who wants the shave off a few degrees. Great idea + REP. Check out my updated pics:

I used the 120mm fan from the CoolIT Domino ALC that I had, that exploded! This thing is a beast, its some kind of OEM Scythe if I remember right.













































About the thermal compound. I have some Arctic Silver Ceramique 22 GRAMS, and would that be better than the stock H50's thermal compound?


----------



## Bane99

Hey everyone, got an H50 for Christmas (Fry's Sale 49.99). Can you add me to the list? Or do I need a picture of my rig?

Two questions:
1) Look at previous post too --> I have AS5, would the stock TIM be better?

2) Push Pull, Exhaust or Intake? I have 2 140mm exhaust fans, and two 120mm intake fans (front and bottom).

Also, I don't have extra powerful fans at the moment. Some have more CFM than others. 2 Globefan 120 mm, Antec P160 stock 120, Corsair H50 stock. Should the more powerful fan be placed in the push or pull positon? (Hopefully i'll replace these with Yate Loons in the future! I just don't have the funds right now. It all went to my other mod project)


----------



## videoman5

The stock TIM is Shin-etsu, and works better than AS5.


----------



## Pings

*Back to The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink*
*The Corsair H50 Permalink For Shrouds*









Home Made Shroud Guide










TFC Xtender 120mm Radiator Shroud - Dual Blue LED










TFC Xtender 120mm Radiator Shroud - Dual Green LED










TFC Xtender 120mm Radiator Shroud - Dual Red LED











Coolingworks Mini-CoolShroud for 120mm Fans- UV Blue











Coolingworks Mini-CoolShroud for 120mm Fans- Black










Tecnofront AirBox 120 Plexi










PrimoChill CoreBox - External Heatercore Mounting kit










PrimoChill HE-Core 120 Shroud - Clear









http://www.moddersmart.com/en/primoc...oud-smoke.html










PrimoChill HE-Core 120 Shroud- UV Blue










PrimoChill HE-Core 120 Shroud- UV Green










PrimoChill HE-Core 120 Shroud- UV Red


----------



## Bane99

Would you then suggest having the pull fan be on the outside of the case?

And for the time being, should the more powerful fan be the pull or the push?


----------



## mastical

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
Whaaaat?

I'm at 34idle, 58Load!!

Is my H50 seated wrong?

I had someone put it in, that has one (but he uses the intel mount for his i7).

I am using these fans as a push/pull set-up intake.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-063-_-Product

What do you think I should do?

Try and re mount it, It took me 3x to finally get it where i want it. I have the pull fan @ 75% and the push @ 50%. Its not too loud that way and i can feel tons of hot air blowing out the back. It must be the 38mm vs the 25mm. Highest ive ever seen was 44 load and thats with the heat on in my apartment set to 75f or so. Remount that sucker.


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mastical* 
i can feel tons of hot air blowing out the back. It must be the 38mm vs the 25mm.

No, that is normal with almost any pull fan







Even my CM case fan running @ 1100RPM as a pull, blows a lot of air out. And that is with the Corsair only pushing @ 600RPM.


----------



## holgate

ok so last week i got the h50 and i remember posting a reply saying that i was idling at 37c at 3.7ghz and now it sometimes goes up to 40c on idle and load at 55c running prime95 for 1 hour, so wat did i do wrong should i reseat, and yes i have two fans in a push/pull setup, i was told that that was normal for my overclock but reading some of these posts i kind of find it hard to believe


----------



## mastical

Quote:



Originally Posted by *holgate*


ok so last week i got the h50 and i remember posting a reply saying that i was idling at 37c at 3.7ghz and now it sometimes goes up to 40c on idle and load at 55c running prime95 for 1 hour, so wat did i do wrong should i reseat, and yes i have two fans in a push/pull setup, i was told that that was normal for my overclock but reading some of these posts i kind of find it hard to believe


What kind of fans do you have?


----------



## ritchwell

Quote:



Originally Posted by *holgate*


ok so last week i got the h50 and i remember posting a reply saying that i was idling at 37c at 3.7ghz and now it sometimes goes up to 40c on idle and load at 55c running prime95 for 1 hour, so wat did i do wrong should i reseat, and yes i have two fans in a push/pull setup, i was told that that was normal for my overclock but reading some of these posts i kind of find it hard to believe


I was wondering the same thing with my setup i also reseated so many times and now i set my push and pull to exhuast the air and my temps are very consistent to the same temps as i reseat with the air going into the case. Always my core 1 is 10C higher than my core 4. My TRUE lapped push and pull at the same clock beats this by 10C.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ritchwell* 
I was wondering the same thing with my setup i also reseated so many times and now i set my push and pull to exhuast the air and my temps are very consistent to the same temps as i reseat with the air going into the case. Always my core 1 is 10C higher than my core 4. My TRUE lapped push and pull at the same clock beats this by 10C.

Did you post a picture of your install? Is your pump/block installed with the tubes down? If it is, have you tried rotating it 90* (ie. tubes out the side)?


----------



## ritchwell

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Did you post a picture of your install? Is your pump/block installed with the tubes down? If it is, have you tried rotating it 90* (ie. tubes out the side)?

Tried up, down, to the sides always the same temps very consistent when i reseat it.


----------



## looser101

Strange. It almost sounded like you had your pump/block at 45* to the cpu cores.


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ritchwell* 
I was wondering the same thing with my setup i also reseated so many times and now i set my push and pull to exhuast the air and my temps are very consistent to the same temps as i reseat with the air going into the case. Always my core 1 is 10C higher than my core 4. My TRUE lapped push and pull at the same clock beats this by 10C.

Lap the H50







I did. 3 cores are same temp 1 about 2-3 lower, but that same one is the one with the worst avg idle temps.


----------



## ritchwell

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
Lap the H50







I did. 3 cores are same temp 1 about 2-3 lower, but that same one is the one with the worst avg idle temps.

Im thinking the same that the water block is not flat.


----------



## ritchwell

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Strange. It almost sounded like you had your pump/block at 45* to the cpu cores.

Like i said i reseated it so many times the corsair logo was in every angle with same temp and usually 10C difference on core 1. Don't get me wrong its stable, did a Intel burn test 20 runs and 5 hour prime 95, i just want to get the temp down.


----------



## Killhouse

Updated the first page, and post #1337









We're one of the biggest threads on here now, more replies than any other thread in the water/air cooling sections.

As for your problem Ritchwell I would agree that your waterblock may not be flat. You could try taking it off and using a steel ruler to check its flatness. If it's horrible you could RMA the H50. Another problem may be your TIM application, or most likely the sensor itself is wrong. Have you tried checking the temps in the BIOS rather than using software?


----------



## Pings

I did some more testing on idle temps. With the fans turned all the way up I get around 22/23Â°C, with them turned all the way down I get about 25Â°C. The push⇇shroud⇇pull mod works very well. I don't think I can get any lower idle temps now to start load temps.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


I did some more testing on idle temps. With the fans turned all the way up I get around 22/23Â°C, with them turned all the way down I get about 25Â°C. The push⇇shroud⇇pull mod works very well. I don't think I can get any lower idle temps now to start load temps.


Good work, I think it's time I tested out this shroud idea. I'm going to put 2 38-mm fans on it first though


----------



## veblen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Good work, I think it's time I tested out this shroud idea. I'm going to put 2 38-mm fans on it first though










I'm convinced to go try out the shroud too! Will report back.


----------



## ritchwell

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Updated the first page, and post #1337









We're one of the biggest threads on here now, more replies than any other thread in the water/air cooling sections.

As for your problem Ritchwell I would agree that your waterblock may not be flat. You could try taking it off and using a steel ruler to check its flatness. If it's horrible you could RMA the H50. Another problem may be your TIM application, or most likely the sensor itself is wrong. Have you tried checking the temps in the BIOS rather than using software?


I don't thinks its the TIM, it was a few degree's higher with the original TIM from the corsair waterblock. I then applied my MX-2 when i added the pull fan but i will try again and reapply the TIM i used about a pea size of the MX-2.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ritchwell*


I don't thinks its the TIM, it was a few degree's higher with the original TIM from the corsair waterblock. I then applied my MX-2 when i added the pull fan but i will try again and reapply the TIM i used about a pea size of the MX-2.


MX-2 doesent spread very well, you might want to try doing 4 or 5 smaller dots to make sure you get proper coverage. That doesent explain a 10C increase though!


----------



## ritchwell

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


MX-2 doesent spread very well, you might want to try doing 4 or 5 smaller dots to make sure you get proper coverage. That doesent explain a 10C increase though!


Il try anything now, 10C difference is to high understandable if its at the most 5C.


----------



## Killhouse

You may find this post interesting:
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=83249

It's a thread on the Corsair forums, someone's H50 leaked and killed his whole system. *Corsair are replacing all the damaged parts.* Another example of their excellent service.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ritchwell*


Il try anything now, 10C difference is to high understandable if its at the most 5C.


Good luck! After that I would check the temps in your BIOS rather than using speedfan or coretemp, sounds like it could be a dodgy reading.


----------



## Pings

I don't know about that guy's leaking? Something doesn't sound right to me. The liquid inside of the H50s is non conductive. From what I understand it takes years for that to liquid to become conductive. How much you wana make a bet that he was modding his H50 or a liquid cooling kit did the damage, and all he did was buy a new H50 poke a hole in it and had Corsair replace everything. He had the only Asetek cooler I ever herd of leaking.


----------



## Killhouse

Not sure what exactly caused it, but it still shows how awesome Corsair are in this respect. All the "But it might leak" people should be put completely at ease.


----------



## ritchwell

Reapplied TIM and reseated again and back to airflow into case, i guess the best i can get is 6-7 C difference. The bios temp is roughly the same on the software side.


----------



## Pings

Ritchwell post a PIC of your PC case with the door open. Also how many DVD drive bays do you have open? Are you in intake⇉ or ⇇exhaust? Have you tired a push↔shroud↔pull? The push↔shroud↔pull should take care of your sealing problem. I have the same CPU and MB and I idle around 22Â°C.


----------



## Yoshimanitsu

I'm on that. I got a push pull setup as well as pretty much everyone else here.

Lovin it so much.


----------



## McLaren_F1

- Just Remounted mine and applied MX-2.
- Setup a "Push/Pull" Config"
- Idle Temps are 33-35 on stock clocks
- I plugged the corsair fan to the "JCPU_FAN" and the Pump to "AUX_FAN" Is this correct?

Are they ok?

P.S. Add me to the Club too


----------



## holgate

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastical*


What kind of fans do you have?


i have a noctua from my old noctua nh-u12p heatsink, i was thinking of doin fan-shroud-radiator-fan mod to see if the temps drop


----------



## ritchwell

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


Ritchwell post a PIC of your PC case with the door open. Also how many DVD drive bays do you have open? Are you in intake⇉ or ⇇exhaust? Have you tired a push↔shroud↔pull? The push↔shroud↔pull should take care of your sealing problem. I have the same CPU and MB and I idle around 22Â°C.


1 DVD in the bay so 4 open, its set up intake, and have not tried a shroud dont know how to set it up here are the pictures.


----------



## Pings

Ok Try these things:

• Flip your H50's pump. I don't know if this matters but it looks to be a bit twisted.

• Your GFX has a air handler that pumps hot air out the rear of your case. Heat rises only to be sucked across the H50's coil where less heat exchange now happens. Now hotter air is being pumped in your case. Its a better idea to have it in exhaust with your setup.

• Next I would add a 120mm intake in your drive bays. So fresh air enter your case and crosses the coil of the H50. You can buy one like this or just zip tie one in.

• Then I would get 2 really good fans, with a fan controller. More so you can adjust the fan noise levels.

• Just take an old 120mm fan and cut the fan part out leaving only the housing. And if you cant do that, then find the cheapest fan you can find to make a shroud with. Now find 4 really long screws or screw them into to each one at a time.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*


- Just Remounted mine and applied MX-2.
- Setup a "Push/Pull" Config"
- Idle Temps are 33-35 on stock clocks
- I plugged the corsair fan to the "JCPU_FAN" and the Pump to "AUX_FAN" Is this correct?

Are they ok?

P.S. Add me to the Club too










Added, nice setup there. And yes thats absolutely correct, you could double check to make sure AUX_FAN is running at 100% speed. The RPM should be about 1400.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


Ok Try these things:

• Flip your H50's pump. I don't know if this matters but it looks to be a bit twisted.

• Your GFX has a air handler that pumps hot air out the rear of your case. Heat rises only to be sucked across the H50's coil where less heat exchange now happens. Now hotter air is being pumped in your case. Its a better idea to have it in exhaust with your setup.

• *Next I would add a 120mm intake in your drive bays.* So fresh air enter your case and crosses the coil of the H50. You can buy one like this or just zip tie one in.

• Then I would get 2 really good fans, with a fan controller. More so you can adjust the fan noise levels.

• Just take an old 120mm fan and cut the fan part out leaving only the housing. And if you cant do that, then find the cheapest fan you can find to *make a shroud* with. Now find 4 really long screws or screw them into to each one at a time.


Really good advice for anyone, the bits in bold especially. And of course 2 powerful fans are going to help a lot if you can stand the noise. +rep for all your help in this thread mate


----------



## ritchwell

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
Ok Try these things:

• Flip your H50's pump. I don't know if this matters but it looks to be a bit twisted.
I have tried many configuration with the radiator and pump & water block position...lol
• Your GFX has a air handler that pumps hot air out the rear of your case. Heat rises only to be sucked across the H50's coil where less heat exchange now happens. Now hotter air is being pumped in your case. Its a better idea to have it in exhaust with your setup.

• Next I would add a 120mm intake in your drive bays. So fresh air enter your case and crosses the coil of the H50. You can buy one like this or just zip tie one in.

I ordered 2 200mm led fans from amazon yesterday for the side cover and replacing the top exhuast with the 200mm led. But i will add an extra 120mm fan as you suggested.

• Then I would get 2 really good fans, with a fan controller. More so you can adjust the fan noise levels.

• Just take an old 120mm fan and cut the fan part out leaving only the housing. And if you cant do that, then find the cheapest fan you can find to make a shroud with. Now find 4 really long screws or screw them into to each one at a time.

I have tried every configuration with the radiator and wateblock...lol

I ordered two 200mm led fan from amazon for the side fan and replace the to p exhuast fan.

Will try to add a 120mm fan on the drive bays.

Looking for a nice fan conroller

What size screw? How do you attach the empty shell fan to the radiator?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ritchwell* 
What size screw is needed, how do you attach the radiator to that empty shell 120mm fan

The screw holes that screw into the radiator are classified as 6-32, you can get them at any home hardware store. To mount a fan and a fan shroud to the radiator you would need screws at least 55mm in length, and not much more - getting longer ones would mean that you'd have to screw them in too far. Add an extra few millimetres if you have to mount the setup through your case. Hope thats clear.


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Added, nice setup there. And yes thats absolutely correct, you could double check to make sure AUX_FAN is running at 100% speed. The RPM should be about 1400.

Do i check that in the BIOS?


----------



## Killhouse

BIOS or speedfan should tell you


----------



## ritchwell

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
To mount a fan and a fan shroud to the radiator you would need screws at least 55mm in length, and not much more - getting longer ones would mean that you'd have to screw them in too far. Add an extra few millimetres if you have to mount the setup through your case. Hope thats clear.

Actually this is part of answer i need, same type machine screw, need the exact size like i know for a 120x25mm fan the screw needed is 6-32 1 1/4. But schroud and fan what is the exact size for the screw?


----------



## Killhouse

As close as you can get to 2" 1/6. I dont use imperial over here in the UK, its all metric. Thats the minimum you should get since that's 55mm.


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
BIOS or speedfan should tell you









SpeedFan shows

Fan1: 1496 RPM
Fan4: 1475 RPM

So does that mean the pump isnt throttled?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1* 
SpeedFan shows

Fan1: 1496 RPM
Fan4: 1475 RPM

So does that mean the pump isnt throttled?

Yep, thats great!


----------



## Passion Fruit

Hi Killhouse, for some reason i couldn't PM you so im going to have to ask here.

Im a regular poster over at Guru3D.

I notice you have a H50. Do you happen to have a spare 1156 bracket and if so would i be able to aquire it off of you?

Corsair offer one from their store for free minus shipping, but the postage is from Timbuktu and im not sure how long it would take to get here.

Unfortunately i have hardware arriving today and no blummin 1136 bracket.

I'd be happy to pay postage and send over a pint in monetary form if you can help me out!

Feel free to e-mail me at ross010 [at] msn.com, or alternatively add me to msn or reply to this thread, ill bookmark it so i can view it later. Cheers

(desperate i know!)


----------



## goonies

I finally found this again, I kept looking and looking for it. This is my favorite setup with UV Green Coil. I found one with UV Orange on another forum, but before I found it I knew I had seen it done with UV Green just couldn't dig it back up. Page 77 Post 768

fireisdangerous84's setup


----------



## nseaton1

Hey, awesome pics everyone, from what I've seen. I have seen this club before, but I just finished installing mine, so I thought I'd ask for a club invite!

Seems to be running great so far.


----------



## Deviance

Today my new hardware came and today I went to BestBuy and bought one! They had it for $79.99 and online for $59.99, told them about their online price and managed to walk away with the thing for $64 with tax! Anyways, installation went smooth and BIOS showed temps at 28 degrees, my old V1 had ~34 degrees idle, so i was pretty satisfied, took Cool&Quiet off, and let things run for a while, temps heated up to about 41 degrees, *I'm using the single Corsair fan as an intake *I know, I know*. So, for the hell of it, I put an Antec Tri-Cool, put it on high and shed 6 degrees in less than two minutes. I'm going to utilize both as exhaust tomorrow when I start tinkering with it, see how many degrees I lose. My biggest problem right now is mounting the PSU on the top of my 932, the mounting locations make it so it's blowing all of its hot air down, unfortunately, right onto the radiator. I'll see how it mounts when I use the old 12V drill....


----------



## Pings

I just used 8 "Fan Screws". 4 for the grill and 4 to connect the fan shroud to the rear fan. Then I used some left over screws to connect the shroud to the H50. In order of shroud to the H50, the rear fan to the shroud, rear fan to the grill.










Quote:


Originally Posted by *ritchwell* 
I have tried every configuration with the radiator and wateblock...lol

Don't try the one you are using. Look at your pic you are putting stress on the tubes of the H50. That might be a good way to spring a leak. I would turn it right side up, counter clock wise so the logo is not upside down. It also could be pinching the tubes and this might give you cooling problems.


----------



## Deviance

Question - does the heatsink/pump performance increase/decrease depending on the orientation of the heatsink/pump? For example, I've seen most of the rigs in this thread have their Corsair logo horizontal, that being, intake and output tubes being side by side. Currently, I have mine horizontal, it seems to put the least amount of stress on the tubes. I would have to assume performance would be better if I had my intake tube (from radiator) either on top or side-by-side.


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Deviance* 
Question - does the heatsink/pump performance increase/decrease depending on the orientation of the heatsink/pump? For example, I've seen most of the rigs in this thread have their Corsair logo horizontal, that being, intake and output tubes being side by side. Currently, I have mine horizontal, it seems to put the least amount of stress on the tubes. I would have to assume performance would be better if I had my intake tube (from radiator) either on top or side-by-side.

Nope! Just quoting yellowbeard








http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showpost...50&postcount=3

I've seen him go into the the pump orientation not mattering either. I just forget where.


----------



## Deviance

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84* 
Nope! Just quoting yellowbeard








http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showpost...50&postcount=3

I've seen him go into the the pump orientation not mattering either. I just forget where.


Wonderful! Thanks for finding that!


----------



## Pings

Sure you can put the H50 any way, up, down left, and right, etc. If the twisting of the tubes is to much that stress can cause damage over time and cause leaks. The twisted tubes also can create can crate a slowdown point for the liquid within the tubes. Also he has a push pull setup in his case. The over twisting of the block could cause kinks since the tubes are now closer together. Look at his H50 tubes and his H50 block, he is more than "slightly twisted clockwise" he is all the way upside down. It clearly looks like to me there is stress on his tubes.










As for Deviance go for it the H50 can be put any way, up, down left, and right, etc. Just don't twist the block to much.


----------



## Deviance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


As for Deviance go for it the H50 can be put any way, up, down left, and right, etc. Just don't twist the block to much.


Actually, the whole point of 'twisting' it on the mounting platform was to alleviate the tension/possible kink points, I'm off to screw with push/pull and mounting locations.


----------



## jck

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
holy *****, champion! You are first modded h50!!

Rep+

Saw ur Review on BestBuy.com. Nice plug for the site


----------



## Killhouse

Passion Fruit said:


> Hi Killhouse [...] Do you happen to have a spare 1156 bracket and if so would i be able to aquire it off of you?
> 
> 
> 
> PM'ed, sorry I cant help.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nseaton1*
> Hey, awesome pics everyone, from what I've seen. I have seen this club before, but I just finished installing mine, so I thought I'd ask for a club invite!
> 
> Seems to be running great so far.
> 
> Added
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deviance*
> Today my new hardware came and today I went to BestBuy and bought one! They had it for $79.99 and online for $59.99, told them about their online price and managed to walk away with the thing for $64 with tax! Anyways, installation went smooth and BIOS showed temps at 28 degrees, my old V1 had ~34 degrees idle, so i was pretty satisfied, took Cool&Quiet off, and let things run for a while, temps heated up to about 41 degrees, *I'm using the single Corsair fan as an intake *I know, I know*. So, for the hell of it, I put an Antec Tri-Cool, put it on high and shed 6 degrees in less than two minutes. I'm going to utilize both as exhaust tomorrow when I start tinkering with it, see how many degrees I lose. My biggest problem right now is mounting the PSU on the top of my 932, the mounting locations make it so it's blowing all of its hot air down, unfortunately, right onto the radiator. I'll see how it mounts when I use the old 12V drill....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome deal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> we're using the same fans exactly, and a similar CPU. While you're tinkering you could experiment with a fan shroud too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , that could drop you a few degrees too. Added.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deviance*
> Question - does the heatsink/pump performance increase/decrease depending on the orientation of the heatsink/pump? For example, I've seen most of the rigs in this thread have their Corsair logo horizontal, that being, intake and output tubes being side by side. Currently, I have mine horizontal, it seems to put the least amount of stress on the tubes. I would have to assume performance would be better if I had my intake tube (from radiator) either on top or side-by-side.
> 
> Although Ping is correct in talking about the pressure on the tubes, you really have nothing to worry about. I've tested this myself and there is absolutely no difference in how the tubes twist compared to performance. This has been backed up over at the Corsair forums. The tubes are double lined and steel-composite reinforced (hence why they're so annoying to bend), you could twist those tubes any which way you like and you would not have any problems in performance. If you DO get a kink in the pipe it will be clearly visible - like when a hosepipe buckles.
> 
> The only way that undue pressure on the pipes could cause a leak is where they meet the barbs of the radiator and pump. They're far more likely to be pulled straight off than for the pipes themselves to burst.
> 
> Hope this answers everything
Click to expand...


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jck*


Saw ur Review on BestBuy.com. Nice plug for the site










HA, Yes it was me..







I wanted to convince them to buy H50, and prove them that they can modify H50 events if they desire.


----------



## lilraver018

can any might lead me the right direction in the correct screw and lengths for mounting a 38 mm fan?


----------



## jck

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
HA, Yes it was me..







I wanted to convince them to buy H50, and prove them that they can modify H50 events if they desire.









Cool









I thought about getting the H50, but right now there's no discount on it here I can find. I even went to FatWallet.com to look for one.

I won't pay $80 for it. I'm kinda cheap.

Now if they were $50 a set, I'd get 3 and put them in all my quad-core boxes and OC the heck out of them!!!









Cool to see ya here tho.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lilraver018*


can any might lead me the right direction in the correct screw and lengths for mounting a 38 mm fan?


6-32 screws, ~42mm in length.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jck*


Cool









I thought about getting the H50, but right now there's no discount on it here I can find. I even went to FatWallet.com to look for one.

I won't pay $80 for it. I'm kinda cheap.

Now if they were $50 a set, I'd get 3 and put them in all my quad-core boxes and OC the heck out of them!!!









Cool to see ya here tho.










Yeah, I picked mine up for $49 a month ago. The deals on these are out there, just have to keep looking.


----------



## jck

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Yeah, I picked mine up for $49 a month ago. The deals on these are out there, just have to keep looking.










Oh, I will.

If I save ~$100 on 3 of them total, that means I can...well...buy something else cool for myself...


----------



## PC Gamer

Do you guys think a push pull setup is worth it if I'm not overclocking? Currently I have the Corsair 120mm mounted as a intake(yes I went with Corsair recommendation for now atleast) in the Haf 922. I'm liking my quiet system so should I really add another 120mm. Ps the fan I would be adding would be another one of the Corsair 120mm H50 fans. Thoughts please?


----------



## Killhouse

Alternatively you could add a fan shroud, this would provide very similar results to a push/pull and would actually reduce the noise of the system. But yes, doing this or adding an extra fan is definetely worth it.


----------



## pluke the 2

Add me







.

Anyone got any other suggestions for me in my spacious case?


----------



## Killhouse

Nice, you'll see big results from adding another fan on that radiator







Push/pull works really well on this unit.

EDIT: You could sleeve all your cables too for added win


----------



## PC Gamer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Alternatively you could add a fan shroud, this would provide very similar results to a push/pull and would actually reduce the noise of the system. But yes, doing this or adding an extra fan is definetely worth it.


I've heard the term fan shroud alot before though I was never sure what it was. Is is it just the fan casing, basically a 120mm (or another size) without the fan inside? If so can I buy these or do I need to just take a fan out of it?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PC Gamer* 
I've heard the term fan shroud alot before though I was never sure what it was. Is is it just the fan casing, basically a 120mm (or another size) without the fan inside? If so can I buy these or do I need to just take a fan out of it?









You can buy fan shrouds straight up from most modding stores but theyre nothing special. If you have an old 120mm fan lying around you can just rip out the fan as you say, or if you see a cheap fan on the internet you could buy it just to kill it







Remember youll need some long screws too.


----------



## pluke the 2

I changed the fan to this one..

http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/436...b1-a-2-gn.html

would I benefit more using a push/pull?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pluke the 2* 
I changed the fan to this one..

http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/436...b1-a-2-gn.html

would I benefit more using a push/pull?

Yep, absolutely. You might want to invest in a fan controller if you havnt already because those bad boys make a lot of noise. Same as PCgamer too, a fan shroud will also improve your temps.


----------



## RoleT

Ok, So everyone that has modded the H50 Tubes knows how hard it is to get all the air and bubbles out... So what do you think about this plan. Adding a reservoir to the loop. My questions are: 1. Would the pump be strong enough. 2. Would you lose some temps? 3. Is the reservoir in the correct location.










Tell me what you guys think. Thanks-RoleT


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RoleT* 
Ok, So everyone that has modded the H50 Tubes knows how hard it is to get all the air and bubbles out... So what do you think about this plan. Adding a reservoir to the loop. My questions are: 1. Would the pump be strong enough. 2. Would you lose some temps? 3. Is the reservoir in the correct location.
[image]
Tell me what you guys think. Thanks-RoleT

1. Probably, so long as your reservoir isnt too high or too low compared to the waterblock and radiator (pumping water up and down takes more power).
2. Temps would probably improve because your reservoir will be an extra heatsink for the water, though this wont be a big difference.
3. As with Q1, just keep it quite close and make sure it's not a big climb between any component.
_
I hasten to add that I'm not a watercooling expert, my knowledge comes from idly browsing the water cooling and Corsair forums. My biggest concern would be the power of the pump, though people have modded their H50's with double rad's in the past - so I think you'd be ok._


----------



## DOOOLY

Hey , i was was wondering if i should push pull exhaust or intake ?


----------



## Sethy666

Check out the ingenuity and imagination of some of our fellow H50 owners... this is insane (in a good way)

Quote:



http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...e-my-case.html


----------



## MNiceGuy

I need some advice guys! I just bought this:










120mm in the front and another in the back...and that's it.

I know Corsair recommends reversing the rear fan but will that really work in this case (zing!)? It seems like the air would be fighting convection on its way down and to the front. How much of a performance hit can I expect by keeping the fan exhaust?


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DOOOLY*


Hey , i was was wondering if i should push pull exhaust or intake ?


Most people in this thread are running as exhaust.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*


I need some advice guys! I just bought this:

120mm in the front and another in the back...and that's it.

I know Corsair recommends reversing the rear fan but will that really work in this case (zing!)? It seems like the air would be fighting convection on its way down and to the front. How much of a performance hit can I expect by keeping the fan exhaust?


I'd run as exhaust with that set up.







Read the first post, there are some valid points which support not running it the Corsair recommended way.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MNiceGuy*


I need some advice guys! I just bought this:

120mm in the front and another in the back...and that's it.

I know Corsair recommends reversing the rear fan but will that really work in this case (zing!)? It seems like the air would be fighting convection on its way down and to the front. How much of a performance hit can I expect by keeping the fan exhaust?


If thats is your only exhaust port, I would keep it like that. Most people here are going exhaust with negligent changes in temps (I know I am)


----------



## sintricate

Trying this out...

(not the speed stick, that works fine)


----------



## maximus20895

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Deviance*


Today my new hardware came and today I went to BestBuy and bought one! They had it for $79.99 and online for $59.99, told them about their online price and managed to walk away with the thing for $64 with tax!


Show me where it is online for $59.99! I have a $20 gift card there!!! Damnit..I think it expired...ugh..i'm extremely bummed now..


----------



## chizzau

speedstick ftl. Old spice is where its at.


----------



## sintricate

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chizzau*


speedstick ftl. Old spice is where its at.


I'm usually a degree kinda guy but I got some cheap speed stick and it works lol


----------



## chizzau

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sintricate*


I'm usually a degree kinda guy but I got some cheap speed stick and it works lol


you get what you pay for lol


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sintricate*


Trying this out...


It must be contagious. XMAX126 posted this earlier today










Quote:



http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...e-my-case.html


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
It must be contagious. XMAX126 posted this earlier today


I read the thread earlier, but didn't comment about this. My question is, wouldn't it be better to have the fan on top of the rad due to the GPU heat being below it?


----------



## TheTurk

his case exhausting hot air from the back into his h50s intake i dont see the point here???


----------



## sintricate

I saw his post before I did mine. I had the same idea a while ago but until I saw his post, I didn't think I could do it.

After seeing his post I realized the HAF932 has a "panel" back there you can open... it's really another spot for a power supply but since mine is at the bottom, I was able to just open that spot up there keeping my exhaust fan where it normally is.


----------



## xquisit

I want to use something to spray the tubing + corsair logo (that area that is round) with a UV reflective paint.

How do I get started, can you post pictures of similar things, and where to purchase?


----------



## sintricate

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheTurk* 
his case exhausting hot air from the back into his h50s intake i dont see the point here???

There's no hot air in my case lol. The air coming out of my top fan is cold to the touch. There's almost no heat in the whole case, it's pretty much room temp in the whole thing.

The reason I myself don't see a point to what I did is because the air inside my case is just as cool as the air outside my case.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sintricate* 
I saw his post before I did mine. I had the same idea a while ago but until I saw his post, I didn't think I could do it.

I am really loving how this small piece of equipment has allowed newbies and vets alike to start modding and take back their PCs. I haven't seen so much activity, trials, experimentation and modding involving a piece of gear since... forever!


----------



## TheTurk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sintricate* 
There's no hot air in my case lol. The air coming out of my top fan is cold to the touch. There's almost no heat in the whole case, it's pretty much room temp in the whole thing.

The reason I myself don't see a point to what I did is because the air inside my case is just as cool as the air outside my case.

i was talking about the other guy








yours should be a lil better since its getting more air from the open space but then towers usually stand against the wall(rear side) and that means your blowing hot air into the wall ?? dont think its a great idea


----------



## sintricate

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheTurk* 
i was talking about the other guy








yours should be a lil better since its getting more air from the open space but then towers usually stand against the wall(rear side) and that means your blowing hot air into the wall ?? dont think its a great idea









Theres about 18" between my fan and the wall so that shouldn't be a problem. The problem (if thats what we want to call is) is that inside or outside my case, the temps are all the same. The HAF932 is so open that it would take a lot of heat to make it warm inside... especially in my room.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheTurk* 
i was talking about the other guy








yours should be a lil better since its getting more air from the open space but then towers usually stand against the wall(rear side) and that means your blowing hot air into the wall ?? dont think its a great idea









Guess we wont know until he completes his system. I can see your point thought.

Thats the beauty of the experiment - find a problem, find a solution. Sintricate's solution may be more eloquent. Sometimes its all about the journey


----------



## xmax126

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheTurk* 
his case exhausting hot air from the back into his h50s intake i dont see the point here???

No air will be venting out of the back when i make my final bracket. All air will be blowing up. Up through the rad outside the case and up threw the 2 top 120mm fans inside the case. No rear exhausting fans.


----------



## TheTurk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmax126* 
No air will be venting out of the back when i make my final bracket. All air will be blowing up. Up threw the rad outside the case and up threw the 2 top 120mm fans inside the case. No rear exhausting fans.

that prolly makes it a lot better but you still be exhausting lil air from the back of your case even w/o a exhaust fan + your gpu will be dumping some too








(dont get me wrong im not trying to argue or anything i hope it works out and we have some more modding ideas







its just that i was thinking about the same thing and these were the setbacks for me also)


----------



## xmax126

its all good.









well i could always reverse my fans and blow the air down through the rad and still have the 2 top case fans exhausting.


----------



## arbalest

^^^Here is my simple but effective way of making a shroud









I just clipped a fan out, and filed it smooth of course... No shoddy workmanship here









I then hollowed out the bottom-most holes just enough with a drillbit to get the heads of the screws/bolts through it.

I used #6 1-1/2" Machine Screws (from HD), and 3 #6 washers for just enough space to keep from hitting the Radiator Fins when tightened down.

I'm going to be making a second shroud for the other side, but I got busy...

Mine is easy but very effective, and isn't too hard on the eyes.

Sorry about the bad quality pic.... My blackberry... Also ignore the wiring. I have been rewiring everything and trying to get the system up and going so cable management isn't the top top priority yet.


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheTurk*


his case exhausting hot air from the back into his h50s intake i dont see the point here???


THIS^

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmax126*


No air will be venting out of the back when i make my final bracket. All air will be blowing up. Up through the rad outside the case and up threw the 2 top 120mm fans inside the case. No rear exhausting fans.


No he is talking about you GFX card's air handler, if you have one. If your GFX has a air handler it blows hot air out the rear of your case. Hot air rises only to be sucked into your H50. If you have it like sintricate's it would work better.


----------



## asuindasun

@ the people who I've seen with the antikink coils on ur h50s, what size? 1/2 OD?

EDIT for clarity: Referring to these
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/66...te_Orange.html


----------



## TheTurk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *asuindasun* 
@ the people who I've seen with the antikink coils on ur h50s, what size? 1/2 OD?

EDIT for clarity: Referring to these
http://www.frozencpu.com/scan/MM=c6e...0coils&mv_arg=

link is not working for me
anyways yes youd better off with 1/2 even 3/8 if they have any since 5/8 is a loose fit


----------



## asuindasun

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheTurk* 
link is not working for me
anyways yes youd better off with 1/2 even 3/8 if they have any since 5/8 is a loose fit









Okie dokie







was debaiting getting another cold cath or led to throw in my case and figured i should grab this in the same shipping charge


----------



## alc0hol

Add me to the list, been an owner since November and I love this thing. Had my 955 at around 27 stock clock and idle. Can't wait to OC on it. I switched mobos out and ran out of fresh thermal grease so I'm waiting for my OCZ Freeze to arrive before reinstalling it.


----------



## Zombies8myBrain

I'm interested in getting a H50. I'm currently using a Zalman 9500A, would this be a good improvement? And I'm looking to get to 4GHz running stable.


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PC Gamer* 
Do you guys think a push pull setup is worth it if I'm not overclocking? Currently I have the Corsair 120mm mounted as a intake(yes I went with Corsair recommendation for now atleast) in the Haf 922. I'm liking my quiet system so should I really add another 120mm. Ps the fan I would be adding would be another one of the Corsair 120mm H50 fans. Thoughts please?









I have the same. Corsair fan pushes, the old CM rear exhaust pulls.

I got it setup so the pull fan is allways at 1000 RPM. The push fan idles at 600RPM, and goes to 1600RPM at load.

Those Corsair fans does run a bit loud when running at full speed. The CM fan is silent and does a good job dealing with idle temps.


----------



## kasuza

How do I install push and pull setup on Corsair H50? I have a very hard time to mount two fans on Corsair H50...one set of screws (4) to connect Corsair fan to radiator.


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kasuza* 
How do I install push and pull setup on Corsair H50? I have a very hard time to mount two fans on Corsair H50...one set of screws (4) to connect Corsair fan to radiator.

Try one on the inside of your case and one on the outside. Like I did with mine. But, with your case I don't know if you could put the top back on the case like that.


----------



## xquisit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xquisit*


i want to use something to spray the tubing + corsair logo (that area that is round) with a uv reflective paint.

How do i get started, can you post pictures of similar things, and where to purchase?


bump


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xquisit*


I want to use something to spray the tubing + corsair logo (that area that is round) with a UV reflective paint.

How do I get started, can you post pictures of similar things, and where to purchase?


Do a Google search for "UV reflective paint", or "UV reflective spray paint".

OK I just got done adding a second intake fan to my 800D. I will be making a better grill for the intake opening. It will be made out of some AC Ryan Moders Mesh and some cheap HVAC ducting sheet metal. I will update with some pics once I get it made and painted.


----------



## TheTurk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


Do a Google search for "UV reflective paint", or "UV reflective spray paint".

OK I just got done adding a second intake fan to my 800D. I will be making a better grill for the intake opening. It will be made out of some AC Ryan Moders Mesh and some cheap HVAC ducting sheet metal. I will update with some pics once I get it made and painted.


good job there pings ..... i have some space in front of my case for another fan also but i got tired of installing fans all over








that picture got me thinking tho, for people who wants to do intake instead of exhaust with their H50s that spot would be really perfect, dont you think? 
its not gonna be easy to install it in there but hey were all up for new challenges right?


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zombies8myBrain*


I'm interested in getting a H50. I'm currently using a Zalman 9500A, would this be a good improvement? And I'm looking to get to 4GHz running stable.


Yes you would see an improvement over a Zalman 9500A. I used to have a Zalman 9700NT. My CoolIT Domino A.L.C. was better than my Zalman 9700NT. My Corsair H50 is way better than the CoolIT Domino A.L.C. that I had.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheTurk*


good job there pings ..... i have some space in front of my case for another fan also but i got tired of installing fans all over








that picture got me thinking tho, for people who wants to do intake instead of exhaust with their H50s that spot would be really perfect, dont you think? 
its not gonna be easy to install it in there but hey were all up for new challenges right?

















No the intake vs exhaust really has to do with your case and your GFX card. For your case and GFX cards you need to be in exhaust with your H50. True if you add a fan like I did and set it up in exhaust as your H50 is in intake. It would help remove the hot air the H50 is pumping in your case. But, like I said it's better for you to be in exhaust with the H50, and intake for the 5.25 drive bay fan.


----------



## TheTurk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


No the intake vs exhaust really has to do with your case and your GFX card. For your case and GFX cards you need to be in exhaust with your H50. True if you add a fan like I did and set it up in exhaust as your H50 is in intake. It would help remove the hot air the H50 is pumping in your case. But. like I said it's better for you to be in exhaust with the H50, and intake for the 5.25 drive bay fan.


im sorry but you need to reread my post bro ...i wasnt asking you if i need to be reversing my h50 to intake.....better yet just disregard it altogether


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheTurk*


im sorry but you need to reread my post bro ...i wasnt asking you if i need to be reversing my h50 to intake.....better yet just disregard it altogether










O OK I see what you are talking about. I say no because the H50 would dump hot air into the case. Maybe if you had some top exhaust fans then yes, if you didn't then no.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RoleT*


Ok, So everyone that has modded the H50 Tubes knows how hard it is to get all the air and bubbles out... So what do you think about this plan. Adding a reservoir to the loop. My questions are: 1. Would the pump be strong enough. 2. Would you lose some temps? 3. Is the reservoir in the correct location.










Tell me what you guys think. Thanks-RoleT


Thats exactly what i will be doing very soon, with a Swiftech micro res Rev.2.

You might want to have the Res abit higher though, as i understand you want the pump always at the bottom of the loop, so if water levels drop, you wont burn out the pump. I plan to have it done soon.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Thats exactly what i will be doing very soon, with a Swiftech micro res Rev.2.

You might want to have the Res abit higher though, as i understand you want the pump always at the bottom of the loop, so if water levels drop, you wont burn out the pump. I plan to have it done soon.

Just ordered the Res along with:

2 x 1/4" BSPP - 10/8mm Compression Fitting (For Res)
1 x PrimoChill Anti-Kink Coils 1/2"- UV Green (Should help keep out the kinks)
1 x Black PVC Hose Clip 1/2" OD (10 Pack) (They are cheap and should be stronger than the cable ties i've been using)
1 x Feser View 50ml Dye (UV Green) (To replace the coolant with)

from Watercooling UK.

Should be fun when it all comes. I got 2-3 day delivery as its currently snowing.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Just ordered the Res along with:

2 x 1/4" BSPP - 10/8mm Compression Fitting (For Res)
1 x PrimoChill Anti-Kink Coils 1/2"- UV Green (Should help keep out the kinks)
1 x Black PVC Hose Clip 1/2" OD (10 Pack) (They are cheap and should be stronger than the cable ties i've been using)
1 x Feser View 50ml Dye (UV Green) (To replace the coolant with)

from Watercooling UK.

Should be fun when it all comes. I got 2-3 day delivery as its currently snowing.

Nice, I'm excited


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Nice, I'm excited









Hopefully my AC MX3 comes in on time.


----------



## arbalest

Willhemmens,

You seem to know the H50 a little better than most, so I have a question for you.

I'm getting an Asus Maximus Extreme in a few days, and I want to add the NB Heatsink into the loop (after the CPU). After reading almost every page in this thread I've come to the conclusion that the H50 pump will handle the job, but I'm going to stick to the 120Rad.

Now, before I get all kinds of hate stating that it will run to hot, I have to say that anything under 80c FULL LOAD is fine with me. I'm sure I won't go above 60c FULL LOAD, and the + side is that the NB will be cooled much better than with an HSF.

My whole goal is to cut as much noise as possible (hence stock H50), while maintaining SAFE temps for a moderate overclock, and STABLE system









Now of course, I will be piecing together a regular full loop, probably from the FOR SALE section, but this is a little experiment I want to do.

Any thoughts?


----------



## tke395

Whats that link to the Fan Shroud testing thats been posted on here before?


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tke395*


Whats that link to the Fan Shroud testing thats been posted on here before?


http://martin.skinneelabs.com/Radiat...ng-Review.html


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
Willhemmens,

You seem to know the H50 a little better than most, so I have a question for you.

I'm getting an Asus Maximus Extreme in a few days, and I want to add the NB Heatsink into the loop (after the CPU). After reading almost every page in this thread I've come to the conclusion that the H50 pump will handle the job, but I'm going to stick to the 120Rad.

Now, before I get all kinds of hate stating that it will run to hot, I have to say that anything under 80c FULL LOAD is fine with me. I'm sure I won't go above 60c FULL LOAD, and the + side is that the NB will be cooled much better than with an HSF.

My whole goal is to cut as much noise as possible (hence stock H50), while maintaining SAFE temps for a moderate overclock, and STABLE system









Now of course, I will be piecing together a regular full loop, probably from the FOR SALE section, but this is a little experiment I want to do.

Any thoughts?

Thanks, i know quite abit about the h50 and its history. I have thought about including a NB waterblock into the loop and almost bought one today but for me its really not needed as my NB doesnt get even warm.

To start with, the H50's standard Rad should and im completely sure will be abit to dissipate the extra heat easily. Compared to the amount of heat a CPU puts out, a NB should be nothing compared.

Unless the NB block is really restrictive, which most arnt, the pump will have no problems.

I've looked at a picture of your Mobo and i cant see any problems.

If you do this mod, i would be very interested in how it goes.


----------



## tke395

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
http://martin.skinneelabs.com/Radiat...ng-Review.html

Thanks for the info would give you a rep if I knew how....


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tke395* 
Thanks for the info would give you a rep if I knew how....

Click on the







button under the users profile picture.


----------



## Killhouse

All this res/NB waterblock stuff is exciting stuff. Can't wait to hear all the results.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kasuza*


How do I install push and pull setup on Corsair H50? I have a very hard time to mount two fans on Corsair H50...one set of screws (4) to connect Corsair fan to radiator.


If you cant locate more screws from the hardward store, most of us are using 2 x stock screws to attach one fan to the rad(on the diagonal) and 2 x stock screws, again on the diagonal, for the other fan - on the other side.

I hope thats clear...


----------



## Sethy666

Not sure if this has been posted before and it is on the Corsair H50 site...

Interesting blog on Push/Pull configs for the H50...

Quote:



http://blog.corsair.com/?p=987



Quote:



By upgrading the H50 to Push-Pull mode we were able to further reduce the temperature of a heavily overclocked Intel Core i7-870 processor by an additional 4Â°C compared to a standard Hydro Series H50 cooler


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Not sure if this has been posted before and it is on the Corsair H50 site...

Interesting blog on Push/Pull configs for the H50...


So all the Fans are "pushing" 1 direction?

FAN1->RADIATOR->FAN2->


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*


So all the Fans are "pushing" 1 direction?

FAN1->RADIATOR->FAN2->


Not quite all "pushing" but your diagram is correct.

Fan 1 is pushing air through the rad and fan 2 is pulling the air through the rad.


----------



## xquisit

Couple of questions:

Are my Cooler Master Red LED fans (from newegg) crappy for my push/pull set up?

PRIME95 Small Torture Test (6hours)
Result:









55*C Load, is this a lil' too high for 3.85GHz (275x14) @ 1.450v?

Do you recommend a shroud for my set-up?

I will be posting pictures of my case, and would like to show my air flow set-up..maybe you guys can help (will post pictures tomorrow).


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
Are my Cooler Master Red LED fans (from newegg)
Do you recommend a shroud for my set-up?

Static Pressure: 3.04 mm/H20
You could get better









And yes I would recommend a fan shroud. It should lower those temps down a bit


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
Couple of questions:

Are my Cooler Master Red LED fans (from newegg) crappy for my push/pull set up?

55*C Load, is this a lil' too high for 3.85GHz (275x14) @ 1.450v?

Do you recommend a shroud for my set-up?

I will be posting pictures of my case, and would like to show my air flow set-up..maybe you guys can help (will post pictures tomorrow).

As Killhouse said above...
We look forward to your pics... need more eye candy!
Nice Koala pic on your screen


----------



## Broom2455

As you can see from my specs I am running a Q9550 e0 on an NVIDIA 790i board. As everyone knows the northbridge and southbridge on these boards run just a wee bit hot:swearing:. I have one of the clip on Asus fans on the Southbridge and I want to put one the Northbridge along with a H50 in push pull on a HAF 922. If anyone has seen the 790i boards the North and Southbridge sits close to the edge of the board. There are pics of current CPU cooler (Arctic 7 Alpine ) installed on the board and the clip on fan in it's present location in my album (system). Your advice would be appreciated.


----------



## xquisit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


As Killhouse said above... 
We look forward to your pics... need more eye candy!
Nice Koala pic on your screen










Oh, I'm glad someone liked it


----------



## Contagion

If anyone doesn't have a use for the Corsair H50 stock fan please, PM me.


----------



## xquisit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Contagion*


If anyone doesn't have a use for the Corsair H50 stock fan please, PM me.


I gave mine away to the good people @ Bold Computers in Burbank.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Broom2455*


As you can see from my specs I am running a Q9550 e0 on an NVIDIA 790i board. As everyone knows the northbridge and southbridge on these boards run just a wee bit hot:swearing:. I have one of the clip on Asus fans on the Southbridge and I want to put one the Northbridge along with a H50 in push pull on a HAF 922. If anyone has seen the 790i boards the North and Southbridge sits close to the edge of the board. There are pics of current CPU cooler (Arctic 7 Alpine ) installed on the board and the clip on fan in it's present location in my album (system). Your advice would be appreciated.


You may get away with it if you mount the pull fan and the rad _outside _ the case and the push fan inside. Maybe some modding involved though.

I know with my setup, it sits right over the NB. Note, you cant see the pull fan in this pic - but it is there.


----------



## chizzau

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
If you cant locate more screws from the hardward store, most of us are using 2 x stock screws to attach one fan to the rad(on the diagonal) and 2 x stock screws, again on the diagonal, for the other fan - on the other side.

I hope thats clear...

So thats how you guys have been doing it. I was thinking about doing that but I am pretty anal about the fitments without the other 2 screws. I'll try it anyway and see if there are any improvements.


----------



## TheTurk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chizzau* 
So thats how you guys have been doing it. I was thinking about doing that but I am pretty anal about the fitments without the other 2 screws. I'll try it anyway and see if there are any improvements.

Dont worry they are tight enough with only 2 screws on each fan


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chizzau* 
So thats how you guys have been doing it. I was thinking about doing that but I am pretty anal about the fitments without the other 2 screws. I'll try it anyway and see if there are any improvements.

It works out well. With the screws used in diagonal placement it holds very snuggly.


----------



## Killhouse

You know those 4 extra screws? the ones that look like the mounting screws for the main bracket? Theyre 6-32 and with a bit of work you can get them to fit too


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


You know those 4 extra screws? the ones that look like the mounting screws for the main bracket? Theyre 6-32 and with a bit of work you can get them to fit too











Your a sly one, arent you... didnt think of that


----------



## sosikwitit

Sweet cooler...


----------



## chizzau

Okay I used the 2 screws each in diagonal to mount my push pull setup. Here's the picture.


----------



## TheTurk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chizzau*


Okay I used the 2 screws each in diagonal to mount my push pull setup. Here's the picture.


nicely done ! good job


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chizzau*


Okay I used the 2 screws each in diagonal to mount my push pull setup. Here's the picture.


Nice. I found that having one of those filters actually increased my temps - only a couple of degrees... how are you finding it?

Is that 4 pin plug (below the fan) attached to anything?


----------



## RoleT

Ok guys I'm going to order a reservoir! what should i get under 30$? I was thinking that mini swiftec one but, I kinda want something unique.


----------



## Sethy666

What size res and are you planning to mod your H50 with it?


----------



## chizzau

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Nice. I found that having one of those filters actually increased my temps - only a couple of degrees... how are you finding it?

Is that 4 pin plug (below the fan) attached to anything?

I'll take the couple degrees increase over a dusty fan/radiator. I plug is an AC97 plug, I'm using the HD audio plug. I really should ziptie that somewhere.


----------



## mastical

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
Couple of questions:

Are my Cooler Master Red LED fans (from newegg) crappy for my push/pull set up?

PRIME95 Small Torture Test (6hours)
Result:









55*C Load, is this a lil' too high for 3.85GHz (275x14) @ 1.450v?

Do you recommend a shroud for my set-up?

I will be posting pictures of my case, and would like to show my air flow set-up..maybe you guys can help (will post pictures tomorrow).

@3.8 p95 Im at 41, highest was 44 with the heat up high in my apt.
Buy ultra kaze 3000's. Loud but they work great.


----------



## RoleT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
What size res and are you planning to mod your H50 with it?

Something pretty small where I could just mount it anywhere in my case. Or maybe in a drive bay?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RoleT* 
Something pretty small where I could just mount it anywhere in my case. Or maybe in a drive bay?

So, your looking at something sub 120mm?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Your a sly one, arent you... didnt think of that

















You cant spell engineer without sly...









[_insert useful information about reservoirs - I know nothing!_]


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RoleT* 
Something pretty small where I could just mount it anywhere in my case. Or maybe in a drive bay?

This:
WHAT SHOULD I LOOK FOR IN A RADIATOR?

Size depends on your cooling requirement. If you plan to use multiple peltiers, then look for a good size radiator - say something like 5x10 or larger. How big will depend on where you plan to mount it; internal mounting does place a premium on size.

For internal mounting, anything over 5x7 gets tricky. Also consider what size fan you plan to use - 120 mms are the best for air-flow and low noise.

from here:

Quote:

http://www.directron.com/watercool.html
And here:

Quote:

http://www.watercoolingmatrix.net/Guides/Rads.html


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


This:
WHAT SHOULD I LOOK FOR IN A RADIATOR?

Size depends on your cooling requirement. If you plan to use multiple peltiers, then look for a good size radiator - say something like 5x10 or larger. How big will depend on where you plan to mount it; internal mounting does place a premium on size.

For internal mounting, anything over 5x7 gets tricky. Also consider what size fan you plan to use - 120 mms are the best for air-flow and low noise.

from here:


Is he not looking for a res?









Nice link though, fuel for thought. NB. 5x7 = 120.2 rad, 5x10 = 120.3 (for all us metric UK folks)

This is apparently a good cheap reservoir. Though I believe that with most of these they are vertically mounted (in order to draw water the barbs must be on the bottom of the reservoir), you may have to look for something else if you actually want a reservoir that mounts into a 5 1/4 drive bay directly.

EDIT: Sorry just saw you'd already seen it and wanted something unique. I'll keep looking.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Is he not looking for a res?









Nice link though, fuel for thought. NB. 5x7 = 120.2 rad, 5x10 = 120.3 (for all us metric UK folks)

This is apparently a good cheap reservoir. Though I believe that with most of these they are vertically mounted (in order to draw water the barbs must be on the bottom of the reservoir), you may have to look for something else if you actually want a reservoir that mounts into a 5 1/4 drive bay directly.

EDIT: Sorry just saw you'd already seen it and wanted something unique. I'll keep looking.


 the link is accurately match for H50..


----------



## Sethy666

Res / rad... dont bother me with details.... slaps self in head.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Well Im thinking of getting this fan for the intake http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185054
I remember reading that it doesnt matter if the push/pull fans have different cfm. But if the intake was a 130cfm and the and the push was only 70cfm, i would think thered be some issure or not the best cooling possible.

UPDATE: I have my Phenom II x3 OC'd to 3.5Ghz running at 1.45v and my temps are idling at 32C and full load on prime95 at 42C. 
I have yet to try and Lap the H50 or the cpu itself, just because Im lazy. I may try and give the nuts a 1/4 turn seeing the TIM has had a good amount of time to break in and settle.


----------



## Killhouse

Late night huh?

You could look at something like this. I'm no expert but a reservoir is just a tank of water, so long as it doesent leak I suggest just go with whichever _looks_ right and _prices_ right. There's a huge range.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Well Im thinking of getting this fan for the intake http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185054
I remember reading that it doesnt matter if the push/pull fans have different cfm. But if the intake was a 130cfm and the and the push was only 70cfm, i would think thered be some issure or not the best cooling possible.

UPDATE: I have my Phenom II x3 OC'd to 3.5Ghz running at 1.45v and my temps are idling at 32C and full load on prime95 at 42C. 
I have yet to try and Lap the H50 or the cpu itself, just because Im lazy. I may try and give the nuts a 1/4 turn seeing the TIM has had a good amount of time to break in and settle.


You probably arent bottlenecking your system with your current fans, so long as the most powerful fan is pushing and the weaker fan is pulling. Technically a bottleneck occurs when the _static pressure CFM_ (the CFM of the fan after travelling through the radiator) exceeds the CFM of the less powerful fan - you're probably not in danger of this. Though, of course, a better fan and a shroud would yield better results for sure









Nice overclock on that and I cant blame you for being lazy - it's that "back to work" feeling we're all getting. I havnt done anything on my case in the last few days, not even wired up the power button *yawn*.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Late night huh?


Im at work, actually


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Im at work, actually










Aussies


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Aussies










Dont you start.....


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Dont you start.....










Its too late to construct anything meaningful, I must sleep.

G'day mate


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Well im using the Cooler Master R4 fans currently. I would think that if you had the same 133cfm push/pull fans that the hot air would be pulled off the rad faster, making it cooler. 
I think when I get a new fan, ill put a shroud on it. 
not so much back to work, cause im only 19.. but i am starting college again. XD its just taking the whole mobo out, and basically the h50 out to lap that. It was a pain to install. I made it much more difficult than it should have. lol


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Well im using the Cooler Master R4 fans currently. I would think that if you had the same 133cfm push/pull fans that the hot air would be pulled off the rad faster, making it cooler. 
I think when I get a new fan, ill put a shroud on it. 
not so much back to work, cause im only 19.. but i am starting college again. XD its just taking the whole mobo out, and basically the h50 out to lap that. It was a pain to install. I made it much more difficult than it should have. lol


Yeah same, university here - exams in a week









You would definetely see an improvement from that fan, for sure. What I mean is that your CMR4 probably isnt restricting the airflow of the more powerful fan in your current setup.

It's hard to explain - if the air travelling from the more powerful fan is pushing the air at 2kmh, the 2nd fan will be receiving moving air and will only be able to push it slightly faster, like trying to pedal a bike downhill. If you increase the power of the 2nd fan, then it will still be receiving moving air but it will be able to accelerate it more, hence improving cooling (imagine you strapped an engine to that bike







). Thats a rubbish analogy but I hope it makes sense!


----------



## nseaton1

well, I said I'd upload a picture, so here are my innards!

now off to rate my cables to get bashed...


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RoleT*


Ok guys I'm going to order a reservoir! what should i get under 30$? I was thinking that mini swiftec one but, I kinda want something unique.


Another one under $30
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25687


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nseaton1*


well, I said I'd upload a picture, so here are my innards!

now off to rate my cables to get bashed...


Mmmmm... blue.... I like blue.. nice setup 8/10... 24pin plug needs work


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Thanks, i know quite abit about the h50 and its history. I have thought about including a NB waterblock into the loop and almost bought one today but for me its really not needed as my NB doesnt get even warm.

To start with, the H50's standard Rad should and im completely sure will be abit to dissipate the extra heat easily. Compared to the amount of heat a CPU puts out, a NB should be nothing compared.

Unless the NB block is really restrictive, which most arnt, the pump will have no problems.

I've looked at a picture of your Mobo and i cant see any problems.

If you do this mod, i would be very interested in how it goes.


Ok then, I will definitely post up my results/pics when I do it. If I run into any roadblocks I'll post up.

Keep up the good work everyone!


----------



## lilraver018

I just purchased some ultra kaze 3000. And man are they loud. They push alot of air but in my case they should close to 3-4 times louder than the original corsair fan the h50 comes with.

I haven't gotten around to test the temperature difference but at a rated 40% max voltage the fans can handle they still bother me to a point where i cant sleep with them on.


----------



## sintricate

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lilraver018* 
I just purchased some ultra kaze 3000. And man are they loud. They push alot of air but in my case they should close to 3-4 times louder than the original corsair fan the h50 comes with.

I haven't gotten around to test the temperature difference but at a rated 40% max voltage the fans can handle they still bother me to a point where i cant sleep with them on.

I just replaced the stock H50 fan with 2 fans I had that push noticeably more air but the silence is gone. It's a shame that my necessity for silence has been overcome by my thirst for better performance from the H50.

The whole reason I got it was because my last heatsink/fan combo was loud.

I just mounted the H50 on the ceiling of my HAF932 right infront of the 230mm fan, just behind the drive bays. The best part about it is the that the fan i'm using for the push air has red LEDs so it matches the 230mm fan in the front of the HAF


----------



## nathris

I finally got around to fixing my fans.

Before I was running:

shroud | rad | nf-p12-1300 as an exhaust

Now I'm running shroud | stock corsair fan | rad | nf-p12-1300 as intake,

and my temps dropped 8 degrees









When I tried for 4GHz with just the NF-P12 Tcase would end up around 72C, with the cores around 75-80C.

Now I'm getting 64C for Tcase and max 71C for the cores, and so far so good









Its not even any louder. I have my stock fan running at 50%, and the NF-P12 at 100% and its still nice and quiet.

@sintricate

When you're doing a push/pull config I found that its not the fact that you're using 2 fans that makes all the noise, its having the first fan sandwiched between the rear grill and the rad. Even my NF-P12, which is a pretty silent fan, gets obnoxiously loud.

That's why I stuck a shroud in there. Its not really doing anything airflow wise but it makes everything a lot quieter.


----------



## sintricate

In my case it's the loud fan I'm using. I was hoping to take it out of my PC but on my quest for lower temps, it found it's way back into my machine


----------



## xquisit

CPU Load was 53*C (highest 55), and was wondering if this is too high?

I am questioning if my fans are good, or if the H50 is seated bad.

275x14 = 3.850Ghz @ 1.450v

965 C3


----------



## nathris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
CPU Load was 53*C (highest 55), and was wondering if this is too high?

I am questioning if my fans are good, or if the H50 is seated bad.

275x14 = 3.850Ghz @ 1.450v

965 C3


Looks fine to me. The H50 is a good cooler when compared to air coolers. You shouldn't expect the same performance from a real water cooling setup.


----------



## Pings

*The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink.*

*Please PM me with links so we can add more accessories*

Here you go H50 owners. I have decided to gather some H50 accessories so it could be added to the front page of our club, and added to from there. So shopping for the H50 could be made easy. Like I said if you find a accessory please PM me with links so we can add more to the list.













Shrouds











Wire Grills










Drive Bay Coolers (5.25")










1/2" Anti-kink Coils 1










Fan Controller Panels 1










Fan Screws 1 2 3

Code:



Code:


[CODE]
[URL="http://www.overclock.net/8104647-post1493.html"][B]The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink[/B][/URL]

[/CODE]

More info on Asetek coolers:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
Asetek makes the H50. Asetek also makes there own brand coolers. There is the Asetek LCLC and the Asetek LCLC 240MM Radiator. From what I understand the H50 has water inside them and the Asetek brand has a some sort of a liquid cooling fluid. Check some other Asetek coolers, NorthQ, Maingear, Alienware, HP, and others. Again Corasir doesn't even make the H50, Asetek does. The engineers who make the H50 recommend the their unit to be in exhaust, for good reason to. I say listen to a trained engineer, not a untrained benchmarker at Corsair. The intake vs exhaust is more based on your GFX card and Case. Corsair recommends intake, but Asetek the company who actually makes the H50 recommends exhaust. Like I said it really has to do with your GFX card and case. If you have a GFX with an air handler that blows hot air out the rear of your case. Its a good idea to have the H50 in exhaust. If you have a Vapor-X type of GFX card with no air handler, its better to be intake. Also do you have a place for that hot air to go once its in your PC case. For the guys who have an air handlers on their GFX cards and their H50s in intake, need to be warned. Do to the season and AC'd rooms, hot air from your GFX card is mixing with the cool air inside the radiator of the H50. This mixing creates condensation. That condensation is moisture that is now being blowing into your PC. But don't pay me no mind, feel free to try any way you like, and post about it. That's what this site is here for.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KlFG6T_68e8

"*Asetekâ€™s factory sealed liquid cooling system is specifically designed to exhaust CPU heat directly outside of the chassis.*" - Asetek


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
Here you go Killhouse and H50 owners. I have decided to gather some H50 accessories so hopefully if be added to the front page of out club, and added to from there. So shopping for the H50 could be made easy.










TFC Xtender 120mm Radiator Shroud - Dual Blue LED










TFC Xtender 120mm Radiator Shroud - Dual Green LED










TFC Xtender 120mm Radiator Shroud - Dual Red LED











Coolingworks Mini-CoolShroud for 120mm Fans- UV Blue











Coolingworks Mini-CoolShroud for 120mm Fans- Black










Tecnofront AirBox 120 Plexi











Wire Grills

Great job, +rep


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RoleT* 
Ok guys I'm going to order a reservoir! what should i get under 30$? I was thinking that mini swiftec one but, I kinda want something unique.

I've got the little Swiftech coming.

Have a look around here: Performance Pcs.

The problem im finding is that because the H50 pump unit is high up in my case i cant use a big res like the EK one's.

I belive the rule is that the Res should be the highest unit in the loop, so all air floats up into the Res. Also the pump should be at the bottom of the loop, so it always has water around it and doesnt burn out.

Just some thoughts.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
Here you go Killhouse and H50 owners. I have decided to gather some H50 accessories so hopefully it could be added to the front page of our club, and added to from there. So shopping for the H50 could be made easy.

Sweet... nice one!


----------



## rottnpup

My H50 was making gurgling noises off and on I believe it was air traveling thru it. I had it mounted with the hoses coming out the bottom and just out of curiousity I remounted the rad with the hoses coming out the top. I no longer hear the noises I thought this rad could be mounted any direction could someone please explain why the difference?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rottnpup* 
My H50 was making gurgling noises off and on I believe it was air traveling thru it. I had it mounted with the hoses coming out the bottom and just out of curiousity I remounted the rad with the hoses coming out the top. I no longer hear the noises I thought this rad could be mounted any direction could someone please explain why the difference?

Thats because there is air in the system. If you leave it for like 2-3 minutes, it should quite down.


----------



## RoleT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rottnpup* 
My H50 was making gurgling noises off and on I believe it was air traveling thru it. I had it mounted with the hoses coming out the bottom and just out of curiousity I remounted the rad with the hoses coming out the top. I no longer hear the noises I thought this rad could be mounted any direction could someone please explain why the difference?

The first time i started my un-modified H50 It did that gargling sound for about 3 seconds. Now that i have it modded it does it whenever it starts up. All it is, is some air going thru the pump and filtering out. Nothing to worry about.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RoleT* 
The first time i started my un-modified H50 It did that gargling sound for about 3 seconds. Now that i have it modded it does it whenever it starts up. All it is, is some air going thru the pump and filtering out. Nothing to worry about.

Indeed, nothing to worry about. You'll notice it more on startup particularly if your pump/waterblock is mounted above your radiator. Since the air rises into the pump while the rig is off. I don't get this any more since my radiator is higher up than the pump - any air in the system tends to settle in there.


----------



## rottnpup

The gurgling would come off and on the whole time computer is powered up another words for hours. I think that the pump being higher then the lines make sense because after I flipped the rad over with hoses on top I never hear the gurgling sound.

Thanks guys for helping me make sense of it I was bewildered but then I am easily lost also!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rottnpup* 
The gurgling would come off and on the whole time computer is powered up another words for hours. I think that the pump being higher then the lines make sense because after I flipped the rad over with hoses on top I never hear the gurgling sound.

Thanks guys for helping me make sense of it I was bewildered but then I am easily lost also!

Glad we could help. If the gurgling persists you can gently rock your case from side to side to get the bubbles out of the pipes


----------



## McLaren_F1

excuse my noob knowledge, what does the "shroud" do?


----------



## Alexandro

Fans have a dead spot in the center where the motor is located. Between that dead spot and the radiator, barely any air gets moved around. 
Because there is a lot of turbulence behind a fan, using a shroud allows the air to get between the dead spot and the radiator, allowing more air to pass through the radiator. Depending on the fan and shroud used, this can give a performance increase of up to 18%!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*


excuse my noob knowledge, what does the "shroud" do?


*Contagion* is doing some interesting tests with shrouds and the H50... its worth subbing









Quote:



http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...0-updated.html


----------



## nathris

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Alexandro*


Fans have a dead spot in the center where the motor is located. Between that dead spot and the radiator, barely any air gets moved around. 
Because there is a lot of turbulence behind a fan, using a shroud allows the air to get between the dead spot and the radiator, allowing more air to pass through the radiator. Depending on the fan and shroud used, this can give a performance increase of up to 18%!



18%? Thats preposterous.

Its been well documented that a shroud only increases performance by 16.56%. I should know. I wrote a paper on it









I don't know if I would pay $20 for a shroud though.

I all I did was take an old Raidmax fan and cut the center out.

If you want LEDs you could always get one of these:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835200049

and do the same (might have to rewire it though).


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Passion Fruit*


Hi Killhouse, for some reason i couldn't PM you so im going to have to ask here.

Im a regular poster over at Guru3D.

I notice you have a H50. Do you happen to have a spare 1156 bracket and if so would i be able to aquire it off of you?

Corsair offer one from their store for free minus shipping, but the postage is from Timbuktu and im not sure how long it would take to get here.

Unfortunately i have hardware arriving today and no blummin 1136 bracket.

I'd be happy to pay postage and send over a pint in monetary form if you can help me out!

Feel free to e-mail me at ross010 [at] msn.com, or alternatively add me to msn or reply to this thread, ill bookmark it so i can view it later. Cheers

(desperate i know!)


Sadly I couldnt help Passion Fruit out here, since my spare bracket is out of reach until Easter. If anyone here in the UK has the spare 1136 bracket it'd be great if you could help out this guy. I believe he was offering postage and a beer









Help out our friends at Guru3D









_EDIT: He's started a thread here._


----------



## Aznboy1993

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lilraver018* 
I just purchased some ultra kaze 3000. And man are they loud. They push alot of air but in my case they should close to 3-4 times louder than the original corsair fan the h50 comes with.

I haven't gotten around to test the temperature difference but at a rated 40% max voltage the fans can handle they still bother me to a point where i cant sleep with them on.

Get a fan controller


----------



## xquisit

The problem is I can't hit 4.0ghz stable. I really haven't put too much effort into it, but it has me doubting my H50. My friend (owns a PC store & H50, but uses an intel bracket) applied the thermal paste the wrong way (possibly). He got the thermal paste, and used a business card to flatten it out all over the surface..and used the extra on the H50 (thermal paste was smeared on the CPU, and added to the H50 as well). I was wondering, if this wasn't a "you've hit a wall" problem... could it be my H50 was placed wrong (and when people use this term, do they mean placed wrong with thermal paste?)?


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xquisit*


The problem is I can't hit 4.0ghz stable. I really haven't put too much effort into it, but it has me doubting my H50. My friend (owns a PC store & H50, but uses an intel bracket) applied the thermal paste the wrong way (possibly). He got the thermal paste, and used a business card to flatten it out all over the surface..and used the extra on the H50 (thermal paste was smeared on the CPU, and added to the H50 as well). I was wondering, if this wasn't a "you've hit a wall" problem... could it be my H50 was placed wrong (and when people use this term, do they mean placed wrong with thermal paste?)?


Usually that does mean it was "seated wrong." Too much paste, or not enough can hinder your OC'ing which I'm sure you know.

*EDIT* I was going to say that too much paste doesn't allow the transfer of heat from you CPU to your HS as easily.

I've always just used a "grain of rice" dab of paste, and used my finger (wrapped in ziplock bag) to EVENLY, and THINLY spread it over the CPU.

Works every time


----------



## kev_b

I transfered my rig from my Scout to my new Lian-Li case and went WC with the H-50 from another rig, my cpu temp only dropped 2 degrees from my Megahalems running only 1 fan at idle, my ambiant temp for both temp readings is 23c.
The odd thing is my gpu temp, with both my Scout and my Lian-Li I ran a fan in the 5.25 bay, the Scout I had the CM R-4 and the Lian-Li I have the Noctual 140mm fan, my temp went from 44c to 35c, I'm hopeing when my MX-3 sets up my cpu temp will drop even more.


----------



## Passion Fruit

MX-3 doesn't cure, so you should be getting near enough the best temp you should from MX-3 from the get-go.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kev_b*


my cpu temp only dropped 2 degrees from my Megahalems running only 1 fan at idle


Given the H50 is still considered by many (not me) a "budget" WC, that is an achievement in itself. What temps where you expecting?

Passion Fruit is right, MX 3 doesn't need time to cure,,, its as good as it gets

Nice setup with your rig, BTW


----------



## logan666

goin 2 pick mine up now from the post office yewwwwww


----------



## xquisit

Pictures:


----------



## logan666

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/3276/photo0019f.jpg
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/4052/photo0021m.jpg
http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/661/photo0020ip.jpg
my amd 940 max temp on prime is 55 n idles round 42


----------



## Pings

xquisit if you have 3 open drive bays, put a fan in for intake. Put your H50 in exhaust. For you case and GFX cards your H50 should be in a exhaust setup. Next try a shroud, buy one or make it. You could try putting the shroud and one fan on the outside of your case, like I did. Check out the *The Official Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink* for some of the stuff I recommended.


----------



## DraganUS

Not bad logan

next time use img tags or click


----------



## xquisit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


xquisit if you have 3 open drive bays, put a fan in for intake. Put your H50 in exhaust. For you case and GFX cards your H50 should be in a exhaust setup. Next try a shroud, buy one or make it. You could try putting the shroud and one fan on the outside of your case, like I did. Check out the *The Official Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink* for some of the stuff I recommended.


Pings, I had mine setup like yours (fan in the drive, but I moved it closer to the front). I will definitely try exhaust now, but I had a question for you:

My friend installed my H50, and he applied thermal paste like this

1) Put grease on the CPU
2) Spread/Flattened with a business card
3) applied the _extra_ thermal paste to the H50
4) Added the H50 to the CPU

Did he do it wrong?


----------



## r31ncarnat3d

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xquisit*


Pings, I had mine setup like yours (fan in the drive, but I moved it closer to the front). I will definitely try exhaust now, but I had a question for you:

My friend installed my H50, and he applied thermal paste like this

1) Put grease on the CPU
2) Spread/Flattened with a business card
3) applied the _extra_ thermal paste to the H50
4) Added the H50 to the CPU

Did he do it wrong?


Personally, I'd skip step 3, as with TIM too much is not good. TIMs may transfer heat well, but they're no substitute for direct metal contact.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
Pings, I had mine setup like yours (fan in the drive, but I moved it closer to the front). I will definitely try exhaust now, but I had a question for you:

My friend installed my H50, and he applied thermal paste like this

1) Put grease on the CPU
2) Spread/Flattened with a business card
3) applied the _extra_ thermal paste to the H50
4) Added the H50 to the CPU

Did he do it wrong?

Sounds to me like too much thermal paste. Were they the same thermal paste on the cpu and on the H50?


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *r31ncarnat3d* 
Personally, I'd skip step 3, as with TIM too much is not good. TIMs may transfer heat well, but they're no substitute for direct metal contact.

I'm sorry, but what is TIM?

Thermal something material?


----------



## BreakDown

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
I'm sorry, but what is TIM?

Thermal something material?

thermal paste


----------



## hxcnero

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
I'm sorry, but what is TIM?

Thermal something material?

thermal interface material


----------



## xquisit

Gotcha, so what do you guys recommend?

What type of thermal paste to use?
I prefer shopping at newegg, or frys/bestbuy.


----------



## BreakDown

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
Gotcha, so what do you guys recommend?

What type of thermal paste to use?
I prefer shopping at newegg, or frys/bestbuy.


from here:
http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ml#post7040970

*4. TIM a.k.a. Thermal Paste- Personal Favorite (OCZ Freeze, MX2 or 3, IC7)

I can't say anything better then what BenchmarkReviews has already shown in the below link:

80-way Thermal Paste Shootout

How to apply TIM is also covered in the review above.

Choosing the right TIM for you? HERE is a guide by Nemesi5.

TIM Removal:
When removing TIM you want to make sure all leftover residue is completely gone. Below is another quote from Nemesi5.
*

*Quote:*

Materiel used to remove TIM

* ArctiClean - This materiel perfect for removing the TIM off your CPU & Heatsink, it works instantly dissolving the TIM leaving room for another TIM.

* Tuniq T1-R - Just like ArctiClean, very easy to apply. The TIM dissolves very quickly making TIM removal much easier.

* However, if you do not want to purchase the ArtiClean, you can simply use Isopropyl Alcohol commonly known as Rubbing Alcohol to remove the TIM
*If you choose to go with (Isopropyl alcohol) Rubbing alcohol make sure it is 80% or higher and wipe it clean and dry with lint free material like a coffee filter*

i like OCZ Freeze.


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BreakDown* 
from here:
http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ml#post7040970

*4. TIM a.k.a. Thermal Paste- Personal Favorite (OCZ Freeze, MX2 or 3, IC7)

I can't say anything better then what BenchmarkReviews has already shown in the below link:

80-way Thermal Paste Shootout

How to apply TIM is also covered in the review above.

Choosing the right TIM for you? HERE is a guide by Nemesi5.

TIM Removal:
When removing TIM you want to make sure all leftover residue is completely gone. Below is another quote from Nemesi5.

If you choose to go with (Isopropyl alcohol) Rubbing alcohol make sure it is 80% or higher and wipe it clean and dry with lint free material like a coffee filter*

i like OCZ Freeze.

+1 rep, but you deserve more so +2

I also think I need the best fan setup, and a fan I can buy dirt cheap to make a fan shroud.


----------



## BreakDown

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
+1 rep, but you deserve more so +2

I also think I need the best fan setup, and a fan I can buy dirt cheap to make a fan shroud.

check that link. it helped me a lot


----------



## Killhouse

The thermal tape already applied on the H50 is Shin Etsu, which generally is better than MX3 and OCZ Freeze. IC7 is still better than Shin Etsu however, and if I was going to buy some more TIM that is what I would get.

Stick with the thermal tape on the H50 though if you still have any left on there


----------



## MindBlank

Mine's coming tomorrow and I have a question : do I keep the stock thermal paste that it comes with or do I replace it with my TX-2? The pad on the block seems to be too large for my liking.


----------



## r31ncarnat3d

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
The thermal tape already applied on the H50 is Shin Etsu, which generally is better than MX3 and OCZ Freeze. IC7 is still better than Shin Etsu however, and if I was going to buy some more TIM that is what I would get.

Stick with the thermal tape on the H50 though if you still have any left on there









From what I've gathered from his question though, it sounds like his friend added on extra TIM than what was just on his H50 already, which is bad IMO


----------



## The Russian

I got H50 too! It awesome. Plus cold weather in Russia and my computer very cold. Add me please.


----------



## Yoshimanitsu

I don't see my name on the list D:


----------



## The Russian

Here my computer. I have to update with H50 soon lol sorry.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MindBlank*


Mine's coming tomorrow and I have a question : do I keep the stock thermal paste that it comes with or do I replace it with my TX-2? The pad on the block seems to be too large for my liking.


The thermal tape on the H50 is Shin Etsu: Shin Etsu should be better than MX3 or AS5 and all the other "normal" TIMs. ICD7 and Coollabatory Liquid Pro would be the upgrades on Shin Etsu.


----------



## Aznboy1993

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


Fail...


Lol









The V8's good though... right?


----------



## The Russian

Pics coming. I mean i have h50 in computer just i do not have pic yet.







sorry


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993*


Lol









The V8's good though... right?


We dont not speak of such... toys!


----------



## MindBlank

*Killhouse*, those temps listed in your System Information page are for the stock 965?

Also, you can add me, I'll post pictures as soon as I get home.


----------



## Killhouse

They are my temps at 3.8Ghz OC, I'll add you now


----------



## xquisit

I am about to sleep.. Will run a 6-8 Prime95 Blend test, but I really wanted to do a CPU load temp comparison between intake/exhaust set-up (and I'll conduct more /w a fan shroud when I get the materials).

So I have screenshot proof, of Prime95 Blend running 6 hours and my load was 53*C (55*C max). I will conduct the same 6 hour test, and hope for the same number. The next time I go to sleep I will swap my set up to exhaust. Safety first, and I want to know... do I need a static wrist band? What do I do after I turn off my computer?

My guess:
1) Turn off computer
2) Turn off PSU
3) Hold down POWER button
4) Open case
5) Swap Set up

(while doing 4/5 I will have one hand on the metal part of the case)

Is this enough, also to add more information.. I am on a Persian Rug, and not too sure about static. Also I hug my dog a lot, it's a cute lil' Pomeranian *furry lil' fox*.

EDIT: If you catch me before I sleep, should I just use another stress test?


----------



## arbalest

Use OCCT Linpack! Thats a REAL stresser! It finds instability and heats chips up much much more than Prime95 ever has/could... at least for me


----------



## MindBlank

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
They are my temps at 3.8Ghz OC, I'll add you now










Very nice temperatures!

At what voltage is it running? Stock CPU-NB?


----------



## Killhouse

Certainly not stock CPU-NB, I believe it was at 1.4V - I'm sorry I dont have my screenshots since I formatted and lost those and I dont run those clocks any more. That was also in my old case so a little outdated.

I will attempt to get 4Ghz in the next few weeks I think, I will let you know my temps and voltages.


----------



## lil-tom7

Well since this is the owner club can you guys help me out. how long are the tube on it?


----------



## Killhouse

27cm but they arent very flexible, expect them to reach 20cm.


----------



## lil-tom7

well can you make them longer any in way? Because around 27cm is long enough but 20 is cutting it really close if not at all.


----------



## Killhouse

They are long enough for most purposes? What are you planning?

You could extend them if you're comfortable with modding.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post7909191


----------



## lil-tom7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


They are long enough for most purposes? What are you planning?

You could extend them if you're comfortable with modding.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post7909191


I want to mount it in the drive bay towards the gpus and mother board because there are like shelves. Just look up my case and you will see what i am talking about.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

You know what I was thinking just the other day... 
Well since I have my radiator as an intake in the front of my case, I was thinking of modding my case. What I was going to do was at the top of my 902 case cut out a 120mm size hole for an exhaust fan. Then from the push fan on the radiator attach an air duct to these two fans. So instead of having the hot air funneled inside my case it will be pulled out through the top just in front of the Big Boy fan. Not sure if this would improve temps or let alone work with the amount of space. Maybe in the 1200. But it was just interesting to think through.


----------



## preyash

mine is in the mail addme..


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lil-tom7*


I want to mount it in the drive bay towards the gpus and mother board because there are like shelves. Just look up my case and you will see what i am talking about.










Looking at pictures and seeing where the mobo is, It doesnt seem like the rad will reach up to the very front of the case where youre hoping to get it. It will reach to the middle of that "cage". Then again it is a little difficult just looking at pictures. Thats my opinion, Killhouse... thoughts?


----------



## Killhouse

I think it would reach to the back of the drive bays (the motherboard side) but it wont reach to the front of the case without some modding. It's pretty hard to gauge distances but I think it would make it. I also highly down you'll be able to get it blowing air directly onto the GPUs if thats what you plan (you'd have to put it at the top of the case), but I wouldnt recommend that anyway as it'll be hot air coming off the radiator.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Little update on temps.. my 3.57Ghz (4th core unlocked) is idling at 32C and load at 42C. 
Theres so much I want to do to try to get temps lower but not wanting to do the work again


----------



## Jura55ic

Add me please


----------



## PC Gamer

Hey guys I just got another fan for a push/pull setup. I have had the one fan as a intake to cool the rad but now since I have 2 shouldn't i go fan<rad<fan? With both fans exhausting.Thanks also did you guys get spacers too or just long screws to mount the 2nd fan?


----------



## r31ncarnat3d

Hey guys, I just did the Intel Burn Test for 25 iterations, and I managed 56-58C with 1.35V on my e8500 C0; is this a good result? The reason I ask is because almost all the comparisons I can find are for the i7-920. Btw, ambient was 21C.


----------



## DraganUS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r31ncarnat3d*


Hey guys, I just did the Intel Burn Test for 25 iterations, and I managed 56-58C with 1.35V on my e8500 C0; is this a good result? The reason I ask is because almost all the comparisons I can find are for the i7-920. Btw, ambient was 21C.


That is about right. My E8200 at 4G reached same temps 56 - 58C and ambient was 20 - 22C with a 1.424Vcore


----------



## SpykeZ

dunno if it's been posted or if anyone cares but

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835181010

they got the batch that comes with the AMD brackets

[edit] uhm...why was this moved to air cooling? It's a water cooled loop :|


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


The H50 V2 = AMD brackets.

Because it was pissing people off. That a closed looped all in one system is getting more popular than anything in the Water Cooling thread. Guys like Spawn-Inc were gona kill them self cuz I paid 50 bucks for a all in one kit that looks way better than his ugly setup. I willing to bet guys like him had a Mod change it to Air Cooling to make them self feel better. Well I say screw their feelings and lets PM some Mods and Admin about this.


Yes TRUE thats truth.. If my WC loop got mess /or was apocalypse by itself of what I unexpect. I would go back to H50 instead of air cooler.


----------



## sintricate

They all sound so ignorant. Step down off your high horses and realize that its a closed loop WATER cooling system.

They said it's "fake"... It's like a ferrari owner calling a hyundai a fake car because his car costs 10x more. Go figure..


----------



## goonies

Well one thing is for sure there are certain people on these forums, even myself included cause it's just fun to get involved, who appear to be fan boys of certain brands whether they mean to appear this way or not. When you see for yourself how many posts threads have on certain products on this forum it will eventually put other brands on the bottom. Doesn't mean that they are bad or not as good it's just the hype one product is receiving probably do to a sale on the item. Like take Silverstone Cases for example go look at the Silverstone Club post in the case section and it's being pushed further and further down while Cooler Master, Lancool, and others remain well on top with 1000 or more posts and tons of views. Does that mean Silverstone doesn't make awesome cases? No it doesn't it's just being overshadowed by the hype and popular crowd controlling peoples views on what to buy cause they think their product is best, again I'm not trying to start a war as I would rightfully defend my products to as well as try to sell them cause I think they are the best. I didn't buy this H50 off the hype I bought it cause of the price and easy water cooling as I've never done it before and this appears to be pretty rock solid construction, almost leak proof. Great entry level water cooling product. It's quite understandable why this was done cause after all the cooling you get off of it probably isn't near as good as true water cooling, but closer to that of the top tier best air coolers and it's overshadowing other true water cooling products.


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *goonies*


Well one thing is for sure there are certain people on these forums, even myself included cause it's just fun to get involved, who appear to be fan boys of certain brands whether they mean to appear this way or not. When you see for yourself how many posts threads have on certain products on this forum it will eventually put other brands on the bottom. Doesn't mean that they are bad or not as good it's just the hype one product is receiving probably do to a sale on the item. Like take Silverstone Cases for example go look at the Silverstone Club post in the case section and it's being pushed further and further down while Cooler Master, Lancool, and others remain well on top with 1000 or more posts and tons of views. Does that mean Silverstone doesn't make awesome cases? No it doesn't it's just being overshadowed by the hype and popular crowd controlling peoples views on what to buy cause they think their product is best, again I'm not trying to start a war as I would rightfully defend my products to as well as try to sell them cause I think they are the best. I didn't buy this H50 off the hype I bought it cause of the price and easy water cooling as I've never done it before and this appears to be pretty rock solid construction, almost leak proof. Great entry level water cooling product. It's quite understandable why this was done cause after all the cooling you get off of it probably isn't near as good as true water cooling, but closer to that of the top tier best air coolers and it's overshadowing other true water cooling products.


You bring up a very good point. But I still don't think its right to move this thread. Because now this thread will dominate the air cooling section. And I don't think those who use air cooling are going to be thrilled about it.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dkev*


Well he could not believe that I only got a 6c rise under load with the H50 so he asked for proof. I gave it to him. That's when all the silliness started. Including deleting several of my posts. I have no idea how he came to the conclusion that the H50 is air cooling when it uses WATER to cool the CPU. I must be missing something.










*HERE*, thats what are you talking about?


----------



## Pinoytrek

hi there,

I joined a couple of days ago and I just wanted to share my experience for the benefit of new club members still deciding on whether intake or exhaust is better.

I initially installed mine on push and pull as intake then changed it to exhaust after doing some reasearch where I saw some people set it up as exhaust, then read some more forums that intake is better than exhaust so I changed it again as intake. I now have it as an intake and I'll think I'll keep it this way after taking some readings each time I change the setup. I'm 1-2c coller in intake and the lightings looks better for me as I'm using GT1850 to push and the UV fan to pull. See pics.

In my personal opinion, I think the decision to set it up as either intake or exhaust depends on the airflow inside the case. It did'nt matter a lot on my case as I think I have a good airflow. Don't want to enter in any debate so peace everyone!


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pinoytrek*


hi there,

I joined a couple of days ago and I just wanted to share my experience for the benefit of new club members still deciding on whether intake or exhaust is better.

I initially installed mine on push and pull as intake then changed it to exhaust after doing some reasearch where I saw some people set it up as exhaust, then read some more forums that intake is better than exhaust so I changed it again as intake. I now have it as an intake and I'll think I'll keep it this way after taking some readings each time I change the setup. I'm 1-2c coller in intake and the lightings looks better for me as I'm using GT1850 to push and the UV fan to pull. See pics.

In my personal opinion, I think the decision to set it up as either intake or exhaust depends on the airflow inside the case. It did'nt matter a lot on my case as I think I have a good airflow. Don't want to enter in any debate so peace everyone!










Very nice set up. You might want to try exhaust and use a fan shroud. Some of us have been able to match intake results. It's a good thing. Anything to keep from dumping that warm air into the case. No war. You set your setup anyway you want that gets you the best results. We only share our results to give others ideas.


----------



## ENTERPRISE

*Moved to Water cooling as this system is a Hydro setup and as such IS water cooling.*


----------



## Beefcake18

Anyone know of any decent deals on the h50 anywhere right now? ~60$ maybe


----------



## mega_option101

I will be keeping an eye on this thread for any further trolling.

This is your warning.


----------



## Pinoytrek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
Very nice set up. You might want to try exhaust and use a fan shroud. Some of us have been able to match intake results. It's a good thing. Anything to keep from dumping that warm air into the case. No war. You set your setup anyway you want that gets you the best results. We only share our results to give others ideas.










Thanks! I did want to use a shroud, unfortunately I don't have enough space to insert one and I don't want to put the fan outside the case. If you know if a shroud that's less than 15mm deep (although I doubt if this will make ay improvement) - you'll make me a happy overclocker!


----------



## ENTERPRISE

Thread Re-opened.

Keep it friendly and constructive. Rock on guys.


----------



## SpykeZ

What's the exact model number of the part that comes with the AMD bracket.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...=corsair%20h50

someone siad this one CWCH50-1 was the AMD bracket package

Also would any of you recommend replacing the thermal goop?


----------



## halifax1

Yay, I love my H50.

Mine came with brackets for everything.

The model for mine is indeed that: CWCH50-1. That's the one that comes with all the brackets including AMD.


----------



## RoleT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *halifax1*


Yay, I love my H50.

Mine came with brackets for everything.

The model for mine is indeed that: CWCH50-1. That's the one that comes with all the brackets including AMD.


I will second the motion. and also. If your thinking about modding the tubes... Just get UV anti-kink.


----------



## Beefcake18

Anyone know any places selling it for sub 70$?


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Beefcake18*


Anyone know any places selling it for sub 70$?


http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/Produc...dlist=celebros

the cheapest your going to find it. Anything lower than that is without the AMD brackets.

1 finaly question before I hit the buy button. The AMD bracket will work with 939 yes?


----------



## Beefcake18

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*


http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/Produc...dlist=celebros

the cheapest your going to find it. Anything lower than that is without the AMD brackets.


Thanks for the link, more than I was wanting to pay for it so I think I'll maybe hang around and see if anything happens with it.


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Beefcake18*


Thanks for the link, more than I was wanting to pay for it so I think I'll maybe hang around and see if anything happens with it.



http://www.mwave.com/mwave/SKUSearch...iteria=BA50079

couple dollars cheaper but seeing as you got an i5 it doesn't matter if it has the AMD bracket.


----------



## Sozin

Just ordered one of these; it'll be my first foray into water cooling. I'm so excited!


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sozin* 
Just ordered one of these; it'll be my first foray into water cooling. I'm so excited!

Enjoy! Run it in Push/Pull and squeeze the Mhz out of that CPU!!!


----------



## sintricate

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/Produc...dlist=celebros

the cheapest your going to find it. Anything lower than that is without the AMD brackets.

1 finaly question before I hit the buy button. The AMD bracket will work with 939 yes?

A few people here got them for $60 or less with the brackets. I saw someone on here who paid $50 for his and I got mine from Best Buy for $60 but they raised their price back to normal again.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sintricate* 
A few people here got them for $60 or less with the brackets. I saw someone on here who paid $50 for his and I got mine from Best Buy for $60 but they raised their price back to normal again.

Find a buddy that works at BestBuy. I got mine for $49


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ENTERPRISE* 
*Moved to Water cooling as this system is a Hydro setup and as such IS water cooling.*


Quote:


Originally Posted by *mega_option101* 
I will be keeping an eye on this thread for any further trolling.

This is your warning.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *ENTERPRISE* 
Thread Re-opened.

Keep it friendly and constructive. Rock on guys.

Ok, I dont really know what all the fuss is about really. I've had a PM questioning the officialness of this thread - it was made official early on, I cant remember who by, it was a long time ago and I dont have record of it. Our thread has been moved twice and we've had some fairly reasonable (if a little harsh) comments been blown way out of proportion.

This thread was never meant to be degrading to those with custom loops or anything, it is *just* a thread for users to share their experience, mods and experiments with the H50; and for potential buyers to evaluate a purchase. And maybe brag about their temperatures a bit







_Just because we are a big and popular thread does not make us better than a custom setup or any other water/air cooling setup out there, and I'm sure all of the regular posters over here would agree._

As for the placement of the thread - it is a watercooling unit and you can't deny that: a motherboard club would be placed in the relative motherboard forum, just as this watercooling kit (which is not different to a water cooling setup in anyway) is placed in the watercooling forum. It would be unjust to all the air-coolers and completely bonkers to put this thread in the air cooling section simply because it is a similar price and performance to high end air coolers







Not that I really care where it is, since people are going to find it either way.

I am, quite frankly, surprised at the amount of moderator response this thread has managed to accrue tonight. I suppose in some ways the H50 is quite a provocative piece of kit, insofar as it offers something normally only available to advanced computer gurus to every random Joe. But we certainly dont intend to be a threat









I hope there is no misunderstanding, and thanks to the moderators for all their work over here on OCN.

Now lets keep the friendly H50 discussions going!

Regards,
~Killhouse, Owner of the H50 Thread


----------



## xquisit

I will be trying a push/pull exhaust.


----------



## Spawn-Inc

for the record i said nothing to anyone or any mod about moving the thread.

as well for the record i don't dislike the h50, just the people who recommend it for people wanting to try water cooling.

my dislike was for coolit, not corsair, which has done far better then i thought it would when it first came out.

done.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Spawn-Inc* 
for the record i said nothing to anyone or any mod about moving the thread.

as well for the record i don't dislike the h50, just the people who recommend it for people wanting to try water cooling.

my dislike was for coolit, not corsair, which has done far better then i thought it would when it first came out.

done.

Thank you spawn, we do indeed compare more to an air cooler in terms of performance and price - but it is still water in this budget thing










I 100% agree that an H50 is not a suitable method for trying out watercooling, unless you're really into modding perhaps - but thats a whole other story! It's also wrong to compare the H50 to a full watercooling custom loop.

Cheers for showing up here


----------



## aSl33pR0

Can i join??

and sorry but these were taken with my iphone due to my d-slr not being on hand.


----------



## KoukiFC3S

I get 75c max under prime95 @ 4ghz, 1.4volts. Is that ok? System temp is 32C.


----------



## Killhouse

Sounds a little high for an i5, though I'll need an intel guru to back me up on this before I suggest reseating the unit.


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KoukiFC3S* 
I get 75c max under prime95 @ 4ghz, 1.4volts. Is that ok? System temp is 32C.

what is your idle temp? 75 is way high.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
what is your idle temp? 75 is way high.

Cant be much below 32C.

I would suggest reseating the block, make sure:
- you use the right screws, the 4 smaller ones out of the 8 provided.
- your pump is running at max RPM, using a fan header on your motherboard that is labelled as a system fan, you can check on speedfan that it is running at 1400RPM (approx.)
- your fan is correctly plugged into the CPU_FAN header
- your Thermal Interface Material has a good coverage, you should not have a problem with the stock thermal tape. But if you are applying your own brand we find that 4 or 5 small dots spread better than one pea-sized drop in the middle
- your waterblock is fully engaged in the little teeth on the ring when you tighten the screws down

If you think you got all those right the first time it's worth reseating anything - sometimes magic just happens.

Good luck.


----------



## KoukiFC3S

About 40C.
Does the corsair on the block have to be upright? Mine is upside down; it made the tubing less obstructed.
For push pull, does one fan have to be a higher rpm than the other?

Thanks!


----------



## r31ncarnat3d

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sintricate*


A few people here got them for $60 or less with the brackets. I saw someone on here who paid $50 for his and I got mine from Best Buy for $60 but they raised their price back to normal again.


I got mine for $55, but I don't need the AMD bracket. Once I get back to my apartment, I'm probably going to give it away.

Actually, since it IS an H50 backplate, how about I put it up on here right now? I just ask whoever needs it pay shipping, and PM me


----------



## r31ncarnat3d

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KoukiFC3S*


About 40C.
Does the corsair on the block have to be upright? Mine is upside down; it made the tubing less obstructed.
For push pull, does one fan have to be a higher rpm than the other?

Thanks!


From what I've heard, the pull fan should definitely be higher CFM than the push fan if your fans are not matched (but matched fans are the preferred). Also, the radiator can be upside down; in my own case I have the tubes on the top.

I'd check your seating to make sure it's 100% tight, and your thermal paste application. Also, make sure your fans are working, and that the radiator is unobstructed.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KoukiFC3S*


About 40C.
Does the corsair on the block have to be upright? Mine is upside down; it made the tubing less obstructed.
For push pull, does one fan have to be a higher rpm than the other?

Thanks!


Orientation doesent matter, and has been proven here and at the Corsair forums.

Your fans wont matter too much if they are different. As a general guideline try to use the more powerful fan as the push fan. There are some technical ways of working out if your pull fan is slowing down the airflow but you're not likely to encounter this unless you have some 100CFM push fan and a 30CFM pull fan









Quote:



From what I've heard, the pull fan should definitely be higher CFM than the push fan


I dont think so







someone clarified this about 60 pages ago. Ill have a look for it.

EDIT: drowsiness is stopping me from finding it, I think it will make very little difference overall anyway.


----------



## KoukiFC3S

Thanks! I'm gonna get some artic silver and try again!


----------



## maximus20895

Would it be safe to put some Indigo Xtreme on the CPU with the H50? I know you can't with the TRUE and the manual says the heatsink/cooler has to fully cover the CPU. Anyone done this or know someone who has?

Thanks.


----------



## Capwn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maximus20895*


Would it be safe to put some Indigo Xtreme on the CPU with the H50? I know you can't with the TRUE and the manual says the heatsink/cooler has to fully cover the CPU. Anyone done this or know someone who has?

Thanks.


Yeah I was looking at Indigo ( didnt know till the other day they make AM2/AM3 kits ) . Im interested myself. *$22 in my paypal* should I do it?


----------



## KoukiFC3S

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
what is your idle temp? 75 is way high.

What should I aim for? At stock speeds it maxes out at 45C.


----------



## SpykeZ

This will work on a 939 socket right? AM2 and AM3 all use the same brackets I thought

[edit] poop







apparently it doesn't. Was going to order it tonight.


----------



## Pings

So my wife wanted to take my baby girl to the ER for a cold. Long story short she's fine. But, happened was I left my PC on with some temperature monitoring software before we took her. I haven't got a chance to test my idle temperatures since I have added a 8th fan. So when I got back it was a 19Â°C! I love my H50 by far the best CPU cooler I have ever owned. It kicks the crap out of my old A.L.C. V1.


----------



## xquisit

I currently have CM R4 (RED LED) fans, and want to know if I should use Ultra Kaze 3000 instead for my push/pull? Maybe I can use a mod'd R4 as a fan shroud.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


So my wife wanted to take my baby girl to the ER for a cold. Long story short she's fine. But, happened was I left my PC on with some temperature monitoring software before we took her. I haven't got a chance to test my idle temperatures since I have added a 8th fan. So when I got back it was a 19Â°C! I love my H50 by far the best CPU cooler I have ever owned. It kicks the crap out of my old A.L.C. V1.











Good temps with an i7, im surprised if im honest. Those old ALC's always looked good but i really wasnt bothered with the screen, alarm and all the stuff. Also the pump didnt look very good. H50 the way.









Hope your baby's well.


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
I currently have CM R4 (RED LED) fans, and want to know if I should use Ultra Kaze 3000 instead for my push/pull? Maybe I can use a mod'd R4 as a fan shroud.

I have 2 of the same R4's you have. I actually just use one as an exhaust mounted to a shroud. If you have really good system cooling, this is all you need. There will be no benefit to using a push fan. The shroud is the key.


----------



## maximus20895

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Capwn*


Yeah I was looking at Indigo ( didnt know till the other day they make AM2/AM3 kits ) . Im interested myself. *$22 in my paypal* should I do it?


I think I am if it's compatible with the h50. Go to SVC, they have it for 18 dollars I think. Just look at some reviews and they say the temps are around 2 degrees cooler and it's not a mess, just a plastic thing you place on the CPU.


----------



## maximus20895

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


So my wife wanted to take my baby girl to the ER for a cold. Long story short she's fine. But, happened was I left my PC on with some temperature monitoring software before we took her. I haven't got a chance to test my idle temperatures since I have added a 8th fan. So when I got back it was a 19Â°C! I love my H50 by far the best CPU cooler I have ever owned. It kicks the crap out of my old A.L.C. V1.


How are you getting it that low with just the h50? Was this under load or what? Those numbers seem realllly low.


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maximus20895*


How are you getting it that low with just the h50? Was this under load or what? Those numbers seem realllly low.


Ya, he stated that was his idle temp.


----------



## MRHANDS

I changed my airflow around and what a difference it made.









If you can't read the top temp, it's the indoor temp and it's at 22.6c
Also, my max temp of 34c (also in pic) was while I was encoding a dvd.

Edit: should mention my cpu is running at stock right now


----------



## PC Gamer

So I have been trying the push pull setup with it exhausting in the haf 922. So far my temps haven't improved. I have 2 120mms( one r4 and another 120mm cm) that I think I'm going to replace the 200mm fan on top with. I'm thinking by doing this I will be exhausting more hot air so I can bring in cooler air for the rad. I hope it helps, if not I might try it as an intake push pull.


----------



## Trogdor

Me too
























these temps are with a 26*C ambient and a few browser windows open


----------



## Cavi

Just installed a push/pull exhaust config.

I'll have to see how my OC goes before I decide whether or not I change it up.


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xquisit*


I currently have CM R4 (RED LED) fans, and want to know if I should use Ultra Kaze 3000 instead for my push/pull? Maybe I can use a mod'd R4 as a fan shroud.


I have one CM R4 for the pull, and Im using the the Domino A.L.C.'s OEM fan for the push. Its a 150 CFM OEM Scythe if I remember right. I also have a fan controller so I can turn down the A.L.C.'s OEM fan. So you can still use one CM R4 if you still want that look.


----------



## Pings

Check out how to make a shroud here, thanks to Sethy666. I added the link to *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink*, under Shrouds.


----------



## xquisit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


I have one CM R4 for the pull, and Im using the the Domino A.L.C.'s OEM fan for the push. Its a 150 CFM OEM Scythe if I remember right. I also have a fan controller so I can turn down the A.L.C.'s OEM fan. So you can still use one CM R4 if you still want that look.


+rep

What would you suggest for the best results?

My system is no longer stable, and I need to start thinking about cooling options for my case.

Plans: Change stock 140mm (top) exhaust to an aftermarket exhaust.

2x UK 3000 Push/Pull, but this time I will run exhaust.

Use R4 as a fan shroud (I will try to reroute the LEDs)

Change both of my Front 120mm intakes to UK 3000s

Keep my side-panel R4, unless I could see a better increase.. I might as well make it a UK 3000 as well.


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xquisit*


What would you suggest for the best results?


You did the shroud. What about adding a fan intake in you 5.25" drive bays? The 2 biggest temperature improvements were the shroud, and adding a fan intake to my 5.25" drive bays. Check *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink* in a few hours because I will be adding more 5.25" drive bay intake accessories.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Ok, I dont really know what all the fuss is about really.


Hell, Killhouse, I go away for the week-end and everything goes to hell in a hand-basket...

Looks like I should have stayed and checked your 6


----------



## xquisit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


You did the shroud. What about adding a fan intake in you 5.25" drive bays? The 2 biggest temperature improvements were the shroud, and adding a fan intake to my 5.25" drive bays. Check *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink* in a few hours because I will be adding more 5.25" drive bay intake accessories.


No, I will be purchasing better fans. My stock CM fans are crap for intakes. Yes, I have one located in my drivebay, and below it.


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xquisit*


No, I will be purchasing better fans. My stock CM fans are crap for intakes. Yes, I have one located in my drivebay, and below it.


When I was using my scout. I took the top exhaust fan and mounted it in the drive bay as an intake. So I had 2 140 intakes plus the side panel fan. This improved system cooling greatly. And helped with my h50 since I refused to have my rad exhaust inside my case.


----------



## arbalest

Has anyone used a Double Shroud setup? I'm considering making another one, and bondo'ing them smooth inside. Guess I could try it...

Actually, I will







I need something to do! lol


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


Has anyone used a Double Shroud setup? I'm considering making another one, and bondo'ing them smooth inside. Guess I could try it...

Actually, I will







I need something to do! lol


Good for you







Nothing like experimentation due to boredom.

Post your results for PINGS and CONTAGION to have a look at.


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


Has anyone used a Double Shroud setup? I'm considering making another one, and bondo'ing them smooth inside. Guess I could try it...

Actually, I will







I need something to do! lol


I've thought about it (Push⇇Shroud⇇Pull⇇Shroud⇇Grill). I got such good temps as it is so I don't think I will do it. Unless it works crazy good for you.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


I've thought about it (Push⇇Shroud⇇Pull⇇Shroud⇇Grill). I got such good temps as it is so I don't think I will do it. Unless it works crazy good for you.


I'm actually thinking more along these lines...

Push ⇒ Shroud||Shroud ⇒ Rad ⇒ Pull --- OR ----

Push ⇒ Rad ⇒ Shroud||Shroud ⇒ Pull <-- Which would be my config now, plus an extra shroud.


----------



## maximus20895

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
When I was using my scout. I took the top exhaust fan and mounted it in the drive bay as an intake. So I had 2 140 intakes plus the side panel fan. This improved system cooling greatly. And helped with my h50 since I refused to have my rad exhaust inside my case.


So you have the following?

|exhaust|case|rad|intake|


----------



## Pings

OK 1st off with your case and GFX card you H50 will work better in exhaust. Second it will work better in (Push⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Pull⇇Shroud). I don't think you understand the shroud. Noting will happen with "Shroud||Shroud" one shroud just does fine. If your are really stuck on intake for the H50 then set it up like this (Shroud⇉Push⇉H50⇉Shroud⇉Pull).


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
OK 1st off with your case and GFX card you H50 will work better in exhaust. Second it will work better in (Push⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Pull⇇Shroud). I don't think you understand the shroud. Noting will happen with "Shroud||Shroud" one shroud just does fine. If your are really stuck on intake for the H50 then set it up like this (Shroud⇉Push⇉H50⇉Shroud⇉Pull).

Actually, I did both.. and my temps dropped by 3c using my intake.









My H50 is mounted at the top where my exhaust fan used to be.


----------



## arbalest

+ to my above post...

I want to see if the suction pressure (?) will increase with a double shroud.

I do know that another shroud between my Push and Rad will help, but I'm waiting on some special order #6 Machine screws which are 2-1/4" so I don't have to do anything extra.

This is just an experiment, since I don't remember if Skinny tried a double shroud?


----------



## ira-k

Guys quit double posting, just edit it into your last post. Thanks


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
When I was using my scout. I took the top exhaust fan and mounted it in the drive bay as an intake. So I had 2 140 intakes plus the side panel fan. This improved system cooling greatly. And helped with my h50 since I refused to have my rad exhaust inside my case.

Thanks for the great idea! I used my 120mm, and put it there..but I'm sure the 140mm will look better with some UV paint & a UV cathode near by!

I will purchase 2x UK 3000s and some fluorescent paint, but was wondering if I painted the fans.. would there be some performance decrease?


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


+ to my above post...

I want to see if the suction pressure (?) will increase with a double shroud.

I do know that another shroud between my Push and Rad will help, but I'm waiting on some special order #6 Machine screws which are 2-1/4" so I don't have to do anything extra.

This is just an experiment, since I don't remember if Skinny tried a double shroud?


Again I don't think you understand a shroud. The longer the shroud the harder it becomes for the fan to push or pull air. I do HVAC for a living and I've seen huge and small systems that have 1/2" - 1 1/2" shrouds. Fans that are way bigger than these 120mm fans. If you want to do dual shrouds do it like this (Shroud⇉Push⇉H50⇉Shroud⇉Pull) other wise you are just putting a greater load on the fan. Even then I doubt the double shroud idea will work, or get me a better idle temp of 19Â°C. Also with your current setup it's wrong, it should be (Shroud⇉Push⇉Rad⇉Pull). The way you did it (Push⇉Rad⇉Shroud⇉Pull) basically you just made a duct. There is no shroud or elimination of dead air with the way you set it up.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


Again I don't think you understand a shroud. The longer the shroud the harder it becomes for the fan to push or pull air. I do HVAC for a living and I've seen huge and small systems that have 1/2" - 1 1/2" shrouds. Fans that are way bigger than these 120mm fans. If you want to do dual shrouds do it like this (Shroud⇉Push⇉H50⇉Shroud⇉Pull) other wise you are just putting a greater load on the fan. Even then I doubt the double shroud idea will work, or get me a better idle temp of 19Â°C. Also with your current setup it's wrong, it should be (Shroud⇉Push⇉Rad⇉Pull). The way you did it (Push⇉Rad⇉Shroud⇉Pull) basically you just made a duct. There is no shroud or elimination of dead air with the way you set it up.


I tried both ways. The reason my intake works better than the push setup, is because I'm not recirculating hot/warm air. <-- Cooler/Fresher air being pulled into the case, thru the radiator, is much much much better than the warmer air (from Gfx and PSU) being pushed out of the case.

Again, I'm just doing this because I'm bored, and I really want to see what the real world effects are... AND hopefully it will quiet it down just a bit more.

I think only high end WC'ing or LN2 would get you better idle temps lol.

To explain my logic regarding sound: I don't care as long as my temps are below 60c at Full Load (Linpack Test), because I do a TON of video encoding, and I leave my machine in all night. I will glady sacrifice some lower temps for an even quieter system.


----------



## Pings

OK just trying to help. But, clearly you don't get the concept at all. You have the H50 setup now like (Push⇉Rad⇉Shroud⇉Pull). Like that there is no shroud no matter how you look at it. You just made a duct for hot air, that's it. For one shroud in a intake setup, it should be (Shroud⇉Push⇉Rad⇉Pull). Lets work on getting and understanding the a single shroud before moving on to a dual shroud. Can someone else try to explain the shroud to him. I don't think I'm reaching him or is he getting it.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


OK just trying to help. But, clearly you don't get the concept at all. You have the H50 setup now like (Push⇉Rad⇉Shroud⇉Pull). Like that there is no shroud no matter how you look at it. You just made a duct for hot air, that's it. For one shroud in a intake setup, it should be (Shroud⇉Push⇉Rad⇉Pull). Lets work on getting and understanding the a single shroud before moving on to a dual shroud. Can someone else try to explain the shroud to him. I don't think I'm reaching him or is he getting it.


Oh I understand.







I told you earlier that I am doing the Fan-Shroud-Rad-Shroud-Fan after my bolts come in...

I have tried all configs, and so I have the setup I have now because it works, and is cooler with my config, irregardless of my shroud/duct or whatever you want to call it.

I said I want to do the double-shroud/duct (?) because it may make it quieter, and it might look cool. No other reason.










^^ Where my logic began regarding shroud/duct.


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
because it may make it quieter, and it might look cool. No other reason.

Sorry to burst you bubble, but adding a 2nd shroud will do noting for your sound level. If you want lower sound try getting better fans with a controller. Actually the sound level went up and down when I added a second shroud. I just gave the double shroud a go. My temps went up more than a few Â°C's. The rear fan would speed all the way and then slow down, over and over. I think adding a second shroud gave it some air flow problems. My idle temps gained a hole 10 few Â°C's. I did think it did look cool though. But, I'm after lower noise levels, and cooler temperatures. The dual shroud was a complete fail. Now I'm back to my sub 20Â°C temperatures.


----------



## xquisit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


Sorry to burst you bubble, but adding a 2nd shroud will do noting for your sound level. If you want lower sound try getting better fans with a controller. Actually the sound level went up and down when I added a second shroud. I just gave the double shroud a go. My temps went up more than a few Â°C's. The rear fan would speed all the way and then slow down, over and over. I think adding a second shroud gave it some air flow problems. My idle temps gained a hole 10 few Â°C's. I did think it did look cool though. But, I'm after lower noise levels, and cooler temperatures. The dual shroud was a complete fail. Now I'm back to my sub 20Â°C temperatures.




























I remember when you recommended me that case, and it's really amazing!

If my scout wasn't $45 after all tax/shipping.. I would've got it.

With my Push/Pull set up.. How is it suppose to be? Are all my fan/shroud/rad in the case?

Or outside?

Let me know the order you think is best.

I have decided to purchase 2x UK 3000s









I will use my stock top 140mm exhaust, and place it in the front as an intake







I just want my airflow to be on point, and flowing in the right direction.

BTW champ, if you painted that fan grill red.. it would really set off your case







That and red sleeving!


----------



## Pings

Yea thanks man. As for the fan inside or outside it really doesn't matter. The the double shroud is no longer in effect. That was a major fail. I removed the grills to just do that. I'll be painting them red and a few other things.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


Yea thanks man. As for the fan inside or outside it really doesn't matter. The the double shroud is no longer in effect. That was a major fail. I removed the grills to just do that. I'll be painting them red and a few other things.


I just added that shroud Pings - 2c drop! yeah


----------



## KoukiFC3S

After reseating my block; I idle at 22C with 25C ambient @ stock speeds.

However @ load; it jumps up to 40C. Is that typical results?


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KoukiFC3S* 
After reseating my block; I idle at 22C with 25C ambient @ stock speeds.

However @ load; it jumps up to 40C. Is that typical results?

Even at stock, that would be a good temp. My 860 does load @ around 55 deg at stock.


----------



## Cavi

Can anyone tell me how well the Corsair fan does that was included with the unit?

Right now I'm using a push/pull exaust config as such:
Corsair fan pushing -> Rad -> Scythe Ultra Kaze 1k rpm pulling

I want to move as much air as possible, but not make the thing too loud.

Looks like my on board motherboard CPU temp reader puts me at 31C idle (haven't tried load, and this is not OC'd yet).

Suggestions? I sacrificed a Lian Li case fan in the setup... wonder if that would move more air than the corsair fan, or if I should just get 2 Ultra Kaze's and upgrade to the 2k rpm ones.


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cavi* 
I should just get 3 Ultra Kaze's and upgrade to the 2k rpm ones.

Or just one of these http://img.ebmpapst.com/products/dat...112NHH-ENG.pdf










Edit: Actually I meant this one http://img.ebmpapst.com/products/dat...112NH4-ENG.pdf


----------



## Cavi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
Or just one of these http://img.ebmpapst.com/products/dat...112NHH-ENG.pdf










Edit: Actually I meant this one http://img.ebmpapst.com/products/dat...112NH4-ENG.pdf









I meant 2 Ultra Kazes... but holy crap that thing would just be loud! Too much noise for me


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cavi* 
I meant 2 Ultra Kazes... but holy crap that thing would just be loud! Too much noise for me









Those ones can actually spin as low 500 rpm. And according to the marketing mumbo jumbo, it is quite silent with high counter pressure.


----------



## arbalest

Pings,

Your pictures aren't displaying what I'm talking about. Are we talking about two different things?!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Hell, Killhouse, I go away for the week-end and everything goes to hell in a hand-basket...

Looks like I should have stayed and checked your 6

















welcome back sethy!

Whats the final verdict on this shroud business as I'd like to edit the FAQ. Push/Pull with a shroud on the pull side, amiright?


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Whats the final verdict on this shroud business as I'd like to edit the FAQ. Push/Pull with a shroud on the pull side, amiright?

Push-Pull vs Push-Pull with 25mm shroud on push side. About 1-2 deg better from my tests, but ambients have been to high and varied for me to money on it.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 







welcome back sethy!

Whats the final verdict on this shroud business as I'd like to edit the FAQ. Push/Pull with a shroud on the pull side, amiright?

Well, Ive got it as;

Push>Shroud>Rad>Pull... dropped 2c for me on idle









I cant understand how it would work with a shroud on the pull side... but as you say... Aussies









Id be inclined to wait for CONTAGION to do his thing, as he orginally started the whole shroud experiment.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Well, Ive got it as;

Push>Shroud>Rad>Pull... dropped 2c for me on idle









I cant understand how it would work with a shroud on the pull side... but as you say... Aussies









Id be inclined to wait for CONTAGION to do his thing, as he orginally started the whole shroud experiment.


See, thats what I'm talking about... People have contradicting results, but I the pressure created by different fans is the reason.

I run Push>Rad>Shroud>Pull, and my temps are 3c lower than the opposing configuration. Thats after multiple baseline tests with just single fan configs, Push/Pull, and then with Push>Shroud>Rad>Pull.


----------



## leppie

Here's my pics finally! Still not finished modding, getting more fans this week and finishing off the old CDROM cage to drive bay fan holder. Just a pity about the shortish tubes on the H50.

Attachment 136721

Attachment 136722

So like add me now please.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Well, Ive got it as;

Push>Shroud>Rad>Pull... dropped 2c for me on idle









I cant understand how it would work with a shroud on the pull side... but as you say... Aussies









Id be inclined to wait for CONTAGION to do his thing, as he orginally started the whole shroud experiment.


I may just do that, at least he's from the right side of the equator







I'm hoping to add 2x 38mm fans to my rig after exams, including a shroud. It's bound to prove worthwhile over my Corsair fan and an Antec Tri-cool.

Can't wait to wire everything up in my case really, I'd love to have my fans, lights and power button rigged up - at the moment im running with an open case with only 2 fans on the rad and a GPU fan. Fortunately I havnt OC'ed yet and I dont do anything too taxing with my computer. I'll also add some UV reactive anti-kink coils to the H50 tubes too.


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


I'm hoping to add 2x 38mm fans to my rig after exams, including a shroud.


You got place for them?









That would be around 150mm.

A 38mm and a 25mm is the most I can do on my PC at the rear before I hit the pump/block/cpu.


----------



## Killhouse

At the moment I have two 25mm fans and the radiator mounted internally with about 8mm to spare. I will measure it more accurately but I think it should fit:

[38mm fan] [25mm shroud] [radiator] internally, then [shroud] [fan] externally.

This is the best picture of my H50 setup I have at the moment, you can see there isnt much extra space but I think it will fit.
(this picture is without the front, top, and sides of the case which are currently fitted)


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*












Nice dust build up you got there already


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


I run Push>Rad>Shroud>Pull


I have not tried that.

What is the fan config, or using equal fans?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


Nice dust build up you got there already










Haha, yeah. I didnt clean it when I moved it between builds but it's not actually as bad as it looks









@Leppie: His suggestion is what I'm interested in knowing, I think it should show some competitive results.


----------



## Beefcake18

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*


http://www.mwave.com/mwave/SKUSearch...iteria=BA50079

couple dollars cheaper but seeing as you got an i5 it doesn't matter if it has the AMD bracket.


I appreciate the link. I haven't ordered my GPU yet, which will either be a 5870 or one of the fermi's. Gonna save some money and hopefully I can order a CPU cooler and GPU at the same time. Won't be overclocking my CPU until then, so I can hold off on cooling until then and pray for a drop in price on this or some kind of alternative.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


Here's my pics finally! Still not finished modding, getting more fans this week and finishing off the old CDROM cage to drive bay fan holder. Just a pity about the shortish tubes on the H50.


Add a shroud on the pull side as well and it will be closer to the cpu.


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Add a shroud on the pull side as well and it will be closer to the cpu.


Wont make a difference. The RAD (due to not being 'screw-thru') must go against the mounting plate.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
Wont make a difference. The RAD (due to not being 'screw-thru') must go against the mounting plate.

Just use long bolts with no heads and fasten with nuts.

Edit: maybe a pic will help...
http://www.overclock.net/7908184-post609.html
Edit 2: bah, guess I misunderstood since I can slide my bracket in and out. nm
Edit 3: not sure what your bracket looks like but maybe you can move the shroud to the other side of the bracket?
like this... pull<rad<shroud<bracket<push


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Edit 3: not sure what your bracket looks like but maybe you can move the shroud to the other side of the bracket?
like this... pull<rad<shroud<bracket<push


I will need to modify it a bit for that (which I need to do), and find screws if I want to add a pull shroud.

Will see what I can come up with.


----------



## RoleT

This last weekend I took the time to change the coolant. I filled it up with Honda coolant that is 50/50 water/antifreeze. I lost my UV color







but it is still green. In the process of doing so I also spilled a bit on my motherboard.







but everything is ok. These are a few pics of how I filled up my loop. Enjoy-Rolet


----------



## Killhouse

Nice, I geuss you're going to remove one end from the barb and join it back together with as little air as possible?


----------



## RoleT

yup, thats what i did. still a lot of air.


----------



## Sozin

Quick question, how do you all feel about the H50 in a P180 Mini?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sozin* 
Quick question, how do you all feel about the H50 in a P180 Mini?

Its got a rear 120mm port... should be okay. Might be a tad tight if you start push/pulling or shrouding


----------



## Sozin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Its got a rear 120mm port... should be okay. Might be a tad tight if you start push/pulling or shrouding

If I start what exactly?


----------



## RoleT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sozin*


If I start what exactly?


Using 2 fans or a shroud to better cool the radiator which in turn will give you better temps sir.


----------



## Sozin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RoleT*


Using 2 fans or a shroud to better cool the radiator which in turn will give you better temps sir.


Like using the case's own back fan along with the H50's?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sozin*


Like using the case's own back fan along with the H50's?


Yep and as RoleT mentioned, placing a shroud between the fan and rad.

Sorry I wasnt clear earlier - me bad


----------



## Sozin

Nah you're good. These are all things I need to know about.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sozin*


Nah you're good. These are all things I need to know about.


With those types of modifications, the pull Corsair fan / rad / push fan structure will start to creep toward your CPU cooler and will sit above your NB. Im not sure how much room you will have if you do that. With a shroud, it will come out even further.

Given a stock fan width is 25mm, your looking at at:
Rad / fan = 50mm
Push/rad/pull =75 mm
Push/rad/pull with Shroud =100mm


----------



## Sozin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


With those types of modifications, the pull Corsair fan / rad / push fan structure will start to creep toward your CPU cooler and will sit above your NB. Im not sure how much room you will have if you do that. With a shroud, it will come out even further.


I'm not sure how much either; I don't have the Mini yet. I'm still rocking my P180B but I plan on getting that Mini and I wanted to see how it would fit in it. A Google search didn't really give me any sort of answers so I'm still not sold on whether or not I will buy the new case.

I know the H50 will be fine in the P180B, it's the smaller twin case I'm worried about.


----------



## Sethy666

From a visual perspective, stock should be fine. Like I said before, everything else will be tight.


----------



## Sozin

I suppose stock might be my only option then if I do indeed go with the Mini.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sozin* 
I suppose stock might be my only option then if I do indeed go with the Mini.

Your going to get a fan with the H50, you have the rear fan... hey, try push/pull and see if it fits.

If it doesnt, you may be able to mount the Cosair fan outside the rear port, thus saving space.


----------



## Sozin

Okay well now you are getting me excited and ahead of myself with this Mini talk. Now I want one even more.

:[


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sozin* 
Okay well now you are getting me excited and ahead of myself with this Mini talk. Now I want one even more.

:[

With all the modding going on with this cooler - anything is possible









Edit: OR you could use skinny fans (15cm)


----------



## Sozin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
With all the modding going on with this cooler - anything is possible









Edit: OR you could use skinny fans (15cm)

Care to pick some out so I can just get an idea?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sozin*


Care to pick some out so I can just get an idea?


modds or fans









Theres modds to remove and replace the tubing, modds to move the rad outside the case, modds to use a 240mm rad... theres shroud modds. Heaps of ideas. Have a look at the first page of this thread for starters.

Fans = google your preferred fan brand


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sozin*


I'm not sure how much either; I don't have the Mini yet. I'm still rocking my P180B but I plan on getting that Mini and I wanted to see how it would fit in it. A Google search didn't really give me any sort of answers so I'm still not sold on whether or not I will buy the new case.

I know the H50 will be fine in the P180B, it's the smaller twin case I'm worried about.


What luck. It just so happens that I use a H50 in a P180 mini. Now I have made some mods to improve overall system cooling, but this will give you a better idea.
http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...ling-mods.html


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dkev*


What luck. It just so happens that I use a H50 in a P180 mini. Now I have made some mods to improve overall system cooling, but this will give you a better idea.
http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...ling-mods.html


Yah! Its the cavalry!


----------



## Sozin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
What luck. It just so happens that I use a H50 in a P180 mini. Now I have made some mods to improve overall system cooling, but this will give you a better idea.
http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...ling-mods.html

omg. I love you this is exactly what I needed!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sozin* 
omg. I love you









I love a happy ending.


----------



## Sozin

So do I. Seriously dkev thanks for that link I appreciate it greatly. I feel so much better about getting the Mini.


----------



## orangecat32




----------



## Robilar

Two questions regarding the H50:

The screws that allow the fan to be mounted, are they long enough to use with a 38mm fan (rather than the 25mm that comes stock).

Is there a second set of screws included to set up push-pull? I noticed that there are thread holes on the inside of the rad for screw mounts.


----------



## maddux

just use 2 screws diagonally. to mount push/pull.


----------



## DraganUS

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Two questions regarding the H50:

The screws that allow the fan to be mounted, are they long enough to use with a 38mm fan (rather than the 25mm that comes stock).

Is there a second set of screws included to set up push-pull? I noticed that there are thread holes on the inside of the rad for screw mounts.

1. No they are only good/long enough to fit 25mm fan.

2. They are no other screws included. There is a thread on the other side, but u would need to buy screws. I have used the HDD holding screws to mount my 3K Kaze.

Here is a link to pics and screws I am talking about

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post7999808


----------



## noahmateen1234

How good does this work? I see it costs around $80 new and I was going to buy a Megahalem ($60 iirc), so I was wondering would this be better for a Q9550? I also plan to most likely get the CM 690 II case, would this fit on the inside on the back 120mm fan spot? Would a Scythe S-Flex E fan be enough for it too? I want a QUIET comp.


----------



## DraganUS

It all depends how much will u push that quad. I have seen that most of the people use one fan and get good results. Stock corsair fan spins at 1400 - 1600 rpms. I think you should be ok with H50.
Get it from zzf for like $69. link


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *noahmateen1234* 
How good does this work? I see it costs around $80 new and I was going to buy a Megahalem ($60 iirc), so I was wondering would this be better for a Q9550? I also plan to most likely get the CM 690 II case, would this fit on the inside on the back 120mm fan spot? Would a Scythe S-Flex E fan be enough for it too? I want a QUIET comp.

It will perform in a very similar way to a Mega temperature-wise. The key selling point of the H50 is that it is very compact compared to a Mega, most people prefer a nice radiator on the back of their case compared to a huge lump of copper hanging off their motherboard. It should also be quieter when you lower the fan speeds at idle, simply because passing air through the radiator is much more easy than pushing air through the heatsink fins. You can also get to your RAM without having to remove the heatsink


----------



## xquisit

Just changed my setup from INTAKE to EXHAUST.

Now this is a picture of my current airflow:










=
See the pink arrow, for my current fan?

Should I move it to the pink circle?
So it's a lil' bit closer to my NB heatsink + memory?


----------



## Killhouse

You already have a lot of airflow across there from all the exhaust fans so you probably wont see any noticable change. The one thing it might do it silence the fan a little, since you're moving it off the fan grill at the front.
Then again if it's an LED fan then you'd be wasting pretty lights


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
You already have a lot of airflow across there from all the exhaust fans so you probably wont see any noticable change. The one thing it might do it silence the fan a little, since you're moving it off the fan grill at the front.
Then again if it's an LED fan then you'd be wasting pretty lights










Someone with the same case (ninja turtle av, on this site) said a shroud setup doesn't fit with a 140mm exhaust fan on the top of my case.

So this means I might have to place my fan on the outside.. how should my 2 fan, shroud, rad order go?


----------



## Killhouse

Keep a close eye on this thread: http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...0-updated.html

Hopefull his results will be up soon and we can see the best arrangement for 2fans+1shroud. I believe that a shroud on the push side is better than on the pull side, though I'm not sure about this.


----------



## Scart

can u add me in too.. just odered mine


----------



## Scart

hi, anyone with a nine hundred case.







.. exhaust... setup at rear.. or intake?? Or intake where the DVD goes. my PC reset twice today i had to buy one of these.. with over 40C here most of the time, temps.....got PC shutdown today twice..


----------



## SpykeZ

Just ordered my h50 along with 2 Noctua P12's for the radiator


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Scart* 
hi, anyone with a nine hundred case.







.. exhaust... setup at rear.. or intake?? Or intake where the DVD goes. my PC reset twice today i had to buy one of these.. with over 40C here most of the time, temps.....got PC shutdown today twice..

With your case and GFX card put your H50 in rear exhaust. If you have 2-3 5.25" drive bays open place a fan in there or buy something that will do that for you. Before or after that buy or make a shroud. Check out the *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink* for some of the things I talked about.

Update: I added a new Permalink to the *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink* for Drive Bay Coolers (5.25")

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
Just ordered my h50 along with 2 Noctua P12's for the radiator









Nice welcome to the club check out the links above for some accessories.

EDIT: I think we are now the biggest club in "Water Cooling"!


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pinoytrek* 
. . . I initially installed mine on push and pull as intake then changed it to exhaust after doing some reasearch where I saw some people set it up as exhaust, then read some more forums that intake is better than exhaust so I changed it again as intake. I now have it as an intake and I'll think I'll keep it this way after taking some readings each time I change the setup. I'm 1-2c coller in intake and the lightings looks better for me as I'm using GT1850 to push and the UV fan to pull. . . .

I, too, have switched from intake, to exhaust, and now am back to intake. I am using 1 shroud, set up as Fan-->Rad-->Shroud-->Fan. I just bought another shroud ($2.95 @ Sidewinder, I couldn't resist!) and will mount the push fan & that shroud outside my case.


At one point I realized I had a strongly positive airflow case, which meant hot air was trying to find its way out of the case -- but once I reversed that, my temps have been really good. 25 idle, (undervolted) 45 max load on my 940 oc'd to 3675mhz.

After fine tuning intake vs. exhaust along with my other fans, I added shrouds. Next I'll probably upgrade my fans, because they are clearly not ideal. Push fan is the Xigmatek (Dark Knight) a decent fan with decent static pressure, pull fan is ACRyan Blackfire4 -- also decent CFM, but I am guessing less-than ideal pressure. So I've been thinking next month I'll try to get a couple of Scythe S-Flex G's and really get just about the most I can out of this great water cooler. So it's all-in-one, sue me! I think the H50 is a great way to get one's feet wet (haha) with water cooling.


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
Someone with the same case (ninja turtle av, on this site) said a shroud setup doesn't fit with a 140mm exhaust fan on the top of my case.

So this means I might have to place my fan on the outside.. how should my 2 fan, shroud, rad order go?

When I was using the Scout, I moved the 140 to the 5.25 bay and installed a 120 on the top. This worked out really well. This will allow you to use a shroud.


----------



## Killhouse

@cyclometric: how is that shroud doing? I'm interested to know if you've tried it on the other side. Research just keeps confusing me but I think you have it the most efficient way around.

@Pings: We are probably the biggest club in the whole cooling section, but I cant be bothered to count all their members. We certainly have one of the most active discussion groups!

@SpykeZ: Good purchase







And some nice fans you've got ready. You should look into making a shroud to get the most out of them.

@Scart: Added, as Pings said - exhaust would be best in your case, my old setup was exhaust in an Antec 902 and the temps were great. Try to move one of the front intakes to the top 3 bays so that you get direct cool air to the rad and upper motherboard.


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Keep a close eye on this thread: http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...0-updated.html

Hopefull his results will be up soon and we can see the best arrangement for 2fans+1shroud. I believe that a shroud on the push side is better than on the pull side, though I'm not sure about this.

Maybe. But I had killer results with the shroud on the pull side. But a lot of this depends on the fans your using of course.


----------



## Killhouse

I think I'll use 2 shrouds in my own setup since they should fit. Along with some 38mm fans of some description.


----------



## ccomputertek

It's not worth it to shroud with 25mm frames you silly boys, if you look at any shroud, they are always 38mm or deeper, 25mm not deep enough to make the difference worth it.If you really want the hot setup, then go with a cooler master atcs 840 aluminum case.they are wider then most cases, especially at the back by the 120mm fan, which will allow you to mount the corsair RAD sideways, instead of the hoses at top or bottom, then turn your pump sideways as well........ you'll see what I mean, this is what i'm going to do, dumping my antec 300 case for this


----------



## Willhemmens

Finaly got all the kit.










The Kit all layed out ready.










Leak testing with the Res's stock barbs.










Before the UV dye went in.










After the Dye.

A poor video of adding the Dye,


YouTube- Adding UV dye to my Watercooling System





As you can see the bottow pipe coming off the Res is a little long so i will be re-routing it and cutting it down abit.

Better photo's tomorrow, more Dye and adding the Ultra Kaze 3000 back as a push.

What do you guys think?


----------



## Killhouse

Awesome work Willhemmens!! +









I'm going to permalink this on the front page - fantastic job!


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Awesome work Willhemmens!! +









I'm going to permalink this on the front page - fantastic job!

Thanks bro, will be doing more tomorrow.


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ccomputertek* 
It's not worth it to shroud with 25mm frames you silly boys, if you look at any shroud, they are always 38mm or deeper, 25mm not deep enough to make the difference worth it.If you really want the hot setup, then go with a cooler master atcs 840 aluminum case.they are wider then most cases, especially at the back by the 120mm fan, which will allow you to mount the corsair RAD sideways, instead of the hoses at top or bottom, then turn your pump sideways as well........ you'll see what I mean, this is what i'm going to do, dumping my antec 300 case for this









25mm works just fine for me. I've used ATCS cases in the past. There nice cases. But my P180 works just fine for me. And my cooling (moded) rivals any case out there. Good luck, I hope your happy with your new set up.


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
@cyclometric: how is that shroud doing? I'm interested to know if you've tried it on the other side. Research just keeps confusing me but I think you have it the most efficient way around.


I believe the shroud is doing well, thanks. Though more upgrades planned:

*Installing shroud on Pull side*, just bought one on clearance super cheap*** and then,
*Leak proofing the shroud & fan* on the push (and pull sides, when it arrives), with elect tape, I am thinking right now
*Installing kink coils* (who am I kidding? that's just for fun)
*Reseating with ICD7* eventually
*Upgrading fans* to Scythe S-Flex-G or, better
Would love LED fans that I could swap in UV bulbs for but seems hard to find good static pressure fans that have LEDs.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ccomputertek* 
It's not worth it to shroud with 25mm frames you silly boys

I guess I am just a _*silly billy*_, then, but silly stuff like this keeps a geek like me going. I am at Overclock.net, right? How do you expect me to spend time . . . socializing? Hehe. I am having fun. Will be nice if I can show some #'s to back up all the effort.







Since I didn't run any methodical testing with each configuration, (exhaust/intake/shroud(ed/less)) I will do so now. I'll run 30 minutes OCCT large data set & report results, if anyone's interested (separate thread or not?)

& thanks for the welcome Killhouse; s'good to be here

*From Sidewinder.com: it's on clearance right now, great deal!


----------



## DraganUS

Pretty good stuff, Willhemmens!!

Whats the tubbing size u used. I know u mention somewhere before, but I am just lazy to look for it.

EDIT: Found it. 8 - 10


----------



## Killhouse

I look forward to seeing those results cyclometric, or should I say silly billy?


----------



## Rick Arter

Great posting so far just picked up one of these from microcenter for my b-day present to myself. I will upload some pics of my rig later today because no pics = never happened. Running a push/pull of R4 90cfm red LED fans running nice at 7v.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Finaly got all the kit.

What do you guys think?

Are you kidding me? Holy snapping catfish! Thats sex on a stick









Am I correct in assuming you are the first to post a res mod?


----------



## Robilar

What exactly is the purpose of adding a shroud?


----------



## Killhouse

It increases the effective area of the radiator by helping to remove the "dead spot" at the centre and sides of a fan.


----------



## Pings

Cyclometric you are trying to change the way heat works. The heat flow in your case is all a mess. Heat goes up, heat also follows cool air in any direction. You got to remember it is winter and what this is doing, is working for you now, but it will not be the same in other seasons. Your front intake and exhaust are way to close. Your GFX has a air handler that blows air out the rear of your case, only to get sucked back into the coil of your H50.










I willing to bet that more than half the people that have the H50 in intake are going to come back later on in the year asking why the temperature of the H50 is getting so high. Its because they have it set up wrong. You got to remember the H50 came out in winter and a very cold winter on top of that. What is working for you now (intake) will not be the same in other seasons.

Try following the laws of heat it will work for you in any season.










O yea + REP for the links...


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Are you kidding me? Holy snapping catfish! Thats sex on a stick









Am I correct in assuming you are the first to post a res mod?


Thanks, its looking better now. Less air bubbles and got the ultra kaze on.

Also as far as I know, I am the very first.


----------



## Killhouse

Oh thats good :O You are the first as far as I know too! And I stalk a lot of forums when it comes to the H50.

That fan is real sexy too, helping your temps a lot?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


You got to remember it is winter and what this is doing, is working for you now, but it will not be the same in other seasons.


Pings is correct. We are in mid-summer here with room ambients hitting 38c on some days, its not fun.

As a "see how it goes" experiement, I swapped over from exhaust to intake and my core temps went uncomfortable high.

Exhaust (no shroud) - 36C
Intake - (no shroud) - 40c
room ambient - 30C
All temps idle.

I quickly went back to exhaust. Now I have a push shroud, its even lower.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Thanks, its looking better now. Less air bubbles and got the ultra kaze on.

Also as far as I know, I am the very first.



Nice!

Is there a reason you have your rad placed with tubes at the top?

Ive noticed it seems to be 50/50. Some at the top, some at the bottom. Im just wondering if there is a "recommended" way to have them?


----------



## Killhouse

It wont matter much (if at all), just put the radiator in such a way that the pipes bend the least.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
It wont matter much (if at all), just put the radiator in such a way that the pipes bend the least.


Yeah, thats what I thought.. Gotta ask the question if you want to learn though


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


Cyclometric you are trying to change the way heat works. The heat flow in your case is all a mess. Heat goes up, heat also follows cool air in any direction. You got to remember it is winter and what this is doing, is working for you now, but it will not be the same in other seasons. Your front intake and exhaust are way to close. Your GFX has a air handler that blows air out the rear of your case, only to get sucked back into the coil of your H50.










I willing to bet that more than half the people that have the H50 in intake are going to come back later on in the year asking why the temperature of the H50 is getting so high. Its because they have it set up wrong. You got to remember the H50 came out in winter and a very cold winter on top of that. What is working for you now (intake) will not be the same in other seasons.

Try following the laws of heat it will work for you in any season.











Pings, I really appreciate your drawing the schematic, and actually, I should have uploaded two versions -- the one I did for H50 fans in "intake mode" and exactly your version, for H50 "exhaust mode".

Even so, at least on my machine, results are better for intake. Am running two more rounds, without the shroud, both in & out, then will post.

BTW, oddly enough, when folding GTX throws some heat, not major (~56-63 w/Rivatuner Fan CTRL) but some -- CPU temp stays ~40 idle, low 40's if 2 core are Notfreds. I keep the back of the box least 18" from anything solid.

Also, I am not too worried about summer. I will be running A/C 24/7 one we get to March/April here in Palm Springs. Was already 80 today, more like 85 inside my place.

Thanks for the help, learning tons,


----------



## forthewinwinx2

Oh yeah guys, nice thread. Just a question, how quiet is this?
Is it noisier than my Current Ziggy 1283 on full load?

and how do the temps compare to it?

Thanks!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *forthewinwinx2*


Oh yeah guys, nice thread. Just a question, how quiet is this?
Is it noisier than my Current Ziggy 1283 on full load?

and how do the temps compare to it?

Thanks!


Very quiet - even at full tilt. I had a Xiggy 126384 (Thor's Hammer) push fan previous to this. Even with a push/pull config on the H50 now, its still quieter than the Xiggy

Temps where comparable to the Hammer, with a shroud config, its now cooler as well


----------



## arbalest

So, whats the verdict on the Intake vs Exhaust config?

I personally have better temps with the Corsair Specified Intake setup w/ Shroud on the pull side.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
So, whats the verdict on the Intake vs Exhaust config?

I personally have better temps with the Corsair Specified Intake setup w/ Shroud on the pull side.

I dont think there is a verdict... its all been preference based on personal experience.


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


So, whats the verdict on the Intake vs Exhaust config?

I personally have better temps with the Corsair Specified Intake setup w/ Shroud on the pull side.


I dont think there is a verdict... its all been preference based on personal experience.


It more has to do with your case and mostly your GFX card. Like I said its winter and not what works now wont be the same later in the year. You should follow the laws of heat and not what someone said at Corsair. I try to look at peoples cases and GFX cards when recommended them for intake vs exhaust. I'm gona do a write up further explaining this. But, I can tell you most every should be in exhaust except Vapor-X type of GFX cards that don't have air handlers.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse*
Basically - mounting the radiator as INTAKE will reduce CPU temperatures, the amount depends a lot on your case and your other hardware. If you have loud, hot, stock coolers on your graphics card and less-than-fantastic exhaust fans then your system will get hot quickly. You'll be blowing hot air from the CPU all over the motherboard.
Now this isnt such a great problem at idle temperatures, and could be nice in some ways, since your CPU will stay dead cold and your fans will barely move. However, at load, your CPU may be running at 50C (assuming a high overclock, for AMD - even higher for Intel). Now I can tell you from experience that the Corsair is VERY good at moving that heat from your CPU to the radiator, and if you put your hand over the exhaust from it it's very hot. The thought of this blowing all over my motherboard, RAM, Graphics cards makes me cringe, it just seems so counterintuitive.
In terms of what you notice - intake will yield a couple of degrees better temperature, although really depends on the hardware in your system. If you have lots of graphics cards it's going to increase this difference.
_The personal feelings of myself and most people in this forum are to ignore Corsairs advice, and configure the fan as *EXHAUST*. Note that we also see big improvements in temperatures when you use a push/pull setup._

Taken from the front page.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Taken from the front page.

Yes TRUE! I think funny that Corsair now followed this thread's strategy, no bs.. We knew Corsair did actually visit and check this. look at Corsair blog 's *H50 guide* which came from this.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Not sure if this has been posted before and it is on the Corsair H50 site...

Interesting blog on Push/Pull configs for the H50...

they did not invest of pull/push before this.. take a look at


YouTube- Corsair Hydro Series H50 versus a "High-Performance" CPU cooler





July 2009, they did not have pull/ push on H50 before the Corsair H50 site appeared on Dec 2009.

Therefore Corsair H50 blog site stolen title "Pull/Push" from this whoever was first invest!


----------



## hxcnero

heres some updated pics of my set up. i have my rad in the front of my case in a push-->rad-->shroud-->pull set up.

what do you guys think?


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
Yes TRUE! I think funny that Corsair now followed this thread's strategy, no bs.. We knew Corsair did actually visit and check this. look at Corsair blog 's *H50 guide* which came from this.

Look at the card they are testing it with...










Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
It more has to do with your case and *mostly your GFX card*. Like I said its winter and not what works now wont be the same later in the year. You should follow the laws of heat and not what someone said at Corsair. I try to look at peoples cases and GFX cards when recommended them for intake vs exhaust. I'm gona do a write up further explaining this. But, I can tell you most every should be in exhaust except *Vapor-X type of GFX cards that don't have air handlers*.


----------



## xquisit

I know I've asked before, but one more time.

I am seeing temps get a tad high, and I'm starting to wonder what TIM to use.

I can purchase from FRYs/BestBuy/ or my favorite: NewEgg

I am replacing my R4 setup with Ultra Kaze 3000s.

I was hoping you guys can tell me what to test, so I can get back here with some results when all the parts are in.

I want to test a fan shroud in my push pull setup, but I am in a Storm Scout.

If I don't have room for everything, what should I mount on the exterior...and in what order?


----------



## Pings

I think your Ultra Kaze 3000s should do it. I have one Coolit 150 CFM + one CM R4. I can turn down the Coolit fan and turn up the CM R4. I use that for "quiet mode". I get higher CFM across the coil of the H50 with the Coolit fan turned all the way up and the CM R4 turned all the way down. I use that for gaming and benchmarking.


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
I think your Ultra Kaze 3000s should do it. I have one Coolit 150 CFM + one CM R4. I can turn down the Coolit fan and turn up the CM R4. I use that for "quiet mode". I get higher CFM across the coil of the H50 with the Coolit fan turned all the way up and the CM R4 turned all the way down. I use that for gaming and benchmarking.

What about that shroud setup, I don't think it will all fit in the interior. If I can manage to fit a fan and/or shroud on the exterior, what should the order be?

thanks


----------



## Pings

I've tried both (Push⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Pull) and (Shroud⇇Push⇇H50⇇Pull), with no difference. If I put the shroud on the other side of the H50 I gained 10Â°C. With dual shrouds I got air flow problems, and I also gained 10Â°C. Right now I have it (Push⇇Shroud⇇|Case|H50⇇Pull).


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
I've tried both (Push⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Pull) and (Shroud⇇Push⇇H50⇇Pull), with no difference. If I put the shroud on the other side of the H50 I gained 10Â°C. With dual shrouds I got air flow problems, and I also gained 10Â°C. Right now I have it (Push⇇Shroud⇇|Case|H50⇇Pull).

Thanks a bunch, I will most definitely try that.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
I've tried both (Push⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Pull) and (*Shroud⇇Push⇇H50⇇Pull*), with no difference. If I put the shroud on the other side of the H50 I gained 10Â°C. With dual shrouds I got air flow problems, and I also gained 10Â°C. Right now I have it (Push⇇Shroud⇇|Case|H50⇇Pull).

I'm surprised by this. Putting a shroud before your push fan (the bolded bit in the quote) should make no difference whatsoever to temperatures, which also suggests that when you have a shroud between your push fan and the radiator (your first suggestion) you should have improved nothing over normal push/pull, since you report no difference between the two. This is confusing.

I would imagine that your current setup is the best:
Push -> Shroud -> H50 -> Pull
but it should be a noticable improvement over:
Shroud -> Push -> H50 -> Pull
which should net you no gain over normal push/pull.

ps. Your arrows also go the wrong way - I see what you mean but your air is travelling in the opposite direction which is confusing


----------



## SpykeZ

Well mine will be here with two noctua P12's in a couple hours









Add me to the list. Also stop being lazy and alphabetize that list!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
Well mine will be here with two noctua P12's in a couple hours









Add me to the list. Also stop being lazy and alphabetize that list!

You gotta be kidding me
















Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
Yes TRUE! I think funny that Corsair now followed this thread's strategy, no bs.. We knew Corsair did actually visit and check this. look at Corsair blog 's *H50 guide* which came from this.

I find it unlikely that they stole that from this thread, Push/Pull is a very common concept. I'm glad that we have publicity on the comments though









Thank you for the link Sethy/GAMERIG, I dont know who got their first. I will add it to the FAQ on Push/Pull.


----------



## Cavi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
Well mine will be here with two noctua P12's in a couple hours









Add me to the list. Also stop being lazy and alphabetize that list!

Should just make it a google spreadsheet so users can add themselves, and it would auto-alphabetize


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyclometric* 
Pings, I really appreciate your drawing the schematic, and actually, I should have uploaded two versions -- the one I did for H50 fans in "intake mode" and exactly your version, for H50 "exhaust mode".

Even so, at least on my machine, results are better for intake. Am running two more rounds, without the shroud, both in & out, then will post.


Ran 4 tests in OCCT, 30 minutes each time with the following setups and results:

With Shroud in Push+Pull
*Intake*: Push Fan>>Rad>>Shroud>>Pull Fan
Max Temp: *46*
*Exhaust*: Pull Fan<<Rad<<Shroud<<Push Fan
Max Temp: *49.5
*
Without Shroud in Push+Pull
*Intake:* Push Fan>>Rad>>Pull Fan
Max Temp: *45*
*Exhaust*: Pull Fan<<Rad<<Push Fan
Max Temp: *49*

I just realized that I screwed up the test for Shroud/Exhaust. I put the shroud between the Push & the Rad, and it should go between the Pull Fan & the Rad. Will retest and expect better results with that setup, but so far the winner is No Shroud, Intaking air.

Whenever running H50 fans as intake, I would flip the top front fan to exhaust, also, so the air at the top of the case should be a straight shot over the radiator and directly out the front, the only obstacle being the Corsair Heatsink itself.

I know some have said the shroud wouldn't be worth putting on, but I never imagined I would get cooler temps *without* the shroud at all.

I'll rerun that Exhaust/Shroud test and report back again.


----------



## Sozin

Okay all, I just received mine and I have a question; should I use the stock P180B fan in the back? Do I need to turn it around like they suggest in the install video?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sozin* 
Okay all, I just received mine and I have a question; should I use the stock P180B fan in the back? Do I need to turn it around like they suggest in the install video?

1. Yeah that extra fan will help temperatures, leave it in if you can.
2. I would keep your airflow as it is now, in exhaust.

The FAQ section in the first post explains in intricaces of using intake vs exhaust.

I'll add you to the list


----------



## Sozin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
1. Yeah that extra fan will help temperatures, leave it in if you can.
2. I would keep your airflow as it is now, in exhaust.

The FAQ section in the first post explains in intricaces of using intake vs exhaust.

I'll add you to the list









Okay thank you!

EDIT

Okay wait, use both the P180 fan and the Corsair fan?


----------



## cl04k3d

Can anyone tell me the temps of this cooler hooked up to an 4.0ghz i7 on max load?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pinoytrek* 
add me please, pictures to follow. Got my i7 920 running @ 4.2ghz 24/7 using the H50. idle at 41c load @ 77/78c on prime95 for an hour - push/pull set up. Love my h50!

Here is a post from one of our members earlier on.
4.2 GHz i7 920
41c idle
78c load


----------



## cl04k3d

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Here is a post from one of our members earlier on.
4.2 GHz i7 920
41c idle
78c load

Thanks bud.


----------



## MinneapolisMangler

I have bad cable management but its still nice
http://s134.photobucket.com/albums/q...haze/My%20Rig/


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sozin* 
Okay thank you!

EDIT

Okay wait, use both the P180 fan and the Corsair fan?

Yep, use both in a push/pull configuration







So put one fan on each side, both blowing air out of the case.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cl04k3d* 
Thanks bud.

No worries. Good luck finding the right cooler

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MinneapolisMangler* 
_I have bad cable management_ but its still nice

_You can say that again_







hehe, sexy case though. Reminds me of my old Antec 902...mmm, blue. Added to the list.
EDIT: Nice OC on that 965!







inspires me to push mine - what sort of temps are you getting?


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Here is a post from one of our members earlier on.
4.2 GHz i7 920
41c idle
78c load

Probably winter temps.









I had to downclock to 160 BCLK (but with full 26x turbo on). And I still hit 80 deg. Ambient temps are 32 deg now @ 9PM. Hit 42 deg outside this afternoon


----------



## Sozin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Yep, use both in a push/pull configuration







So put one fan on each side, both blowing air out of the case.

I don't think the screws are long enough....


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sozin* 
I don't think the screws are long enough....

You cant screw through the radiator anyway, you'll break the fins.

Corsair gave you 4 screws for fan mounting - normally you only need to use 2, diagonally opposite each other. So you can use 2 to mount 1 fan and 2 to mount the other.

Another trick is to try and use the extra 4 screws that come in the box, they are 6-32 threaded but they have a weird length.

Failing that most home hardware stores will have what you need. You are after some 6-32 1 1/4" screws.


----------



## Cavi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sozin* 
I don't think the screws are long enough....

Use one set through the fan into one side of the rad (inside the case)

Use another set of screws to go into the back of the case, through the fan, into the rad.

For 38mm wide fans (bigger) you will need to go to the hardware store and purchase longer screws. 6 32 2in. Anyone in a hardware store will know exactly what that means









The screws will all be Type 6 32tpi, the length just varies depending on your needs!

EDIT - Killhouse beat me to it


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
You cant screw through the radiator anyway, you'll break the fins.

There is no problem 'accidentally' going to deep. They are just fins, no pipes or water.

You could probably go straight through without any problems.

Actually my Corsair screws went in the one side... (for pull fan not connected to case). I inspected it, and nothing but a little bit of 'missing' fin.


----------



## Sozin

So the Corsair fan arrow should be point towards the rad right?

So it would go from left to right: Case > Antec Fan > Rad > Corsair fan.


----------



## MinneapolisMangler

the diagonal 2 x 2 setup is fine really it does not rattle or come loose at all


----------



## Killhouse

But still, it's not a good idea to bend them. And I would strongly advise against screwing all the way through.

Not because I don't believe you, just out of curiousity - where does the water actually flow through the rad if it doesent go through those fins? I notice there are those horizontal pieces - does it just go through those?

*EDIT:* @Sozin: Yep, or the other way around if you want to keep it as exhaust.


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Not because I don't believe you, just out of curiousity - where does the water actually flow through the rad if it doesent go through those fins? I notice there are those horizontal pieces - does it just go through those?

As far as I can tell.

If water was to go all the way to the fins, the water circulation would be pretty poor IMO.


----------



## Cavi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sozin* 
So the Corsair fan arrow should be point towards the rad right?

So it would go from left to right: Case > Antec Fan > Rad > Corsair fan.

Put it this way, hold a fan up to your face. If you can see the logo, the air would be blowing AT you. Either way you do it, just make sure the logos of the fans are facing the same direction!


----------



## Sozin

The airflow should travel as such:

Corsair fan brings in cold air, goes through the rad, and the Antec fan pushes out the hot air. Which means the Corsair fan's arrow should be pointed towards the rad, indicating that it is pulling in the cold air.

Am I on the right track?


----------



## Killhouse

Yep, both arrows should point to the back of the case.


----------



## Sozin

The Antec fan doesn't have an arrow, but the logo is facing the rad.


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sozin* 
The Antec fan doesn't have an arrow, but the logo is facing the rad.

I think it needs to be the other way around. Just start it up, and feel with your hand. You should feel a nice cool breeze.


----------



## Killhouse

The logo should be facing out of your case:

From inside your case to outside:
1. Corsair Fan: Arrow facing towards the radiator, towards the back of the case.
2. Radiator
3. Antec Fan: Mounted on the back of your case with the logo facing AWAY from the radiator, towards the back of the case.


----------



## Sozin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
The logo should be facing out of your case:

From inside your case to outside:
1. Corsair Fan: Arrow facing towards the radiator, towards the back of the case.
2. Radiator
3. Antec Fan: Mounted on the back of your case with the logo facing AWAY from the radiator, towards the back of the case.

Ah, thanks to you both. I'll go change those right now.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sozin* 
Ah, thanks to you both. I'll go change those right now.

Good luck, dont forget to change your system specs


----------



## Sozin

Mmm...the Antec fan on the outside of the case isn't getting any power. The H50, the Corsair fan, and the other two Antec fans are but not the back one.


----------



## Killhouse

Hm, what is it plugged into? Normally those Antec fans connect via molex - just make sure the connection is tight.


----------



## Cavi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sozin* 
Mmm...the Antec fan on the outside of the case isn't getting any power. The H50, the Corsair fan, and the other two Antec fans are but not the back one.

... it can still be inside the case you know







I'm using 2 fans exhausting, everything in the case.

Case <-- Fan pulling out out <-- Rad <-- fan pushing out


----------



## Sozin

That Antec fan can't sit on the back of the case, as it turns it hits the exhaust area.


----------



## Killhouse

It should be mounted in it's normal position, on the back of the case but still inside.


----------



## Sozin

*faceplam*

Wow....I am duuuuuuuummmmmbbbb.


----------



## ThePaperRoute

Where can i buy a fan shroud ?


----------



## Cavi

You know Killhouse, looking at your picture it seems as if that orientation of your pump would put less stress on the tubes. I was just trying to get the Corsair logo up/down! Maybe if I redo my TIM application sometime I will keep that in mind.


----------



## nsilva

Only using a fan to push cold air in to the rad now until I can mount my old fan to the radiator. Side of the case is open.


----------



## Sozin

My new MOBO says that the system temp is 30C and the CPU temp is 87C....

Also, the block isn't touching the CPU entirely. There is a bit of a lift around the "top" of the block that isn't touching the CPU in any way. At all.


----------



## Sozin

Okay I reset the water block and now I have a CPU temp of 31C....how is that?


----------



## Killhouse

Your H50 was effectively doing nothing since not all the pins we're engaged









@Cavi: Thats not my case, that was just an example from google images. My case is an acrylic custom job linked in my sig. "Paroxysm".

@ThePaperRoute: You can buy from from most modding stores, or you can just make one by pulling out the blades and motor from an old fan - just using the bracket.


----------



## Cavi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sozin* 
Okay I reset the water block and now I have a CPU temp of 31C....how is that?

Sounds good to me, that's where mine idle's. The trick is going to be how well it does when OC'd and under stress









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
@Cavi: Thats not my case, that was just an example from google images. My case is an acrylic custom job linked in my sig. "Paroxysm".

Got ya! Either way, I would imagine that setup might put less stress on the tubes than the way I have it now. Might actually be easier to mount the pump that way too now that I think about it...


----------



## Sozin

Okay something went horrendously wrong; I reset the block and got the reading of 30C. I booted into Windows and checked CPUZ and saw a VCore of like 1.47, I knew that was too high. I went back into the BIOS and and found the VCore setting, I set it to a lower number and the computer shut off instantly. I rebooted and got back into the BIOS and started smelling something burning. I immediately shut the computer off and the smell was coming from the processor. I waited a few minutes, put it back in, and nothing happens on screen. I've removed and switched RAM sticks and tried a 7600GT instead of the 8800GT and still nothing works.

Did I fry the CPU?


----------



## DraganUS

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sozin* 
Okay something went horrendously wrong; I reset the block and got the reading of 30C. I booted into Windows and checked CPUZ and saw a VCore of like 1.47, I knew that was too high. I went back into the BIOS and and found the VCore setting, I set it to a lower number and the computer shut off instantly. I rebooted and got back into the BIOS and started smelling something burning. I immediately shut the computer off and the smell was coming from the processor. I waited a few minutes, put it back in, and nothing happens on screen. I've removed and switched RAM sticks and tried a 7600GT instead of the 8800GT and still nothing works.

Did I fry the CPU?

Ouch man, it looks like u did, but take out cpu and inspect for any damage on it or mobo. If u have other chip test it out with mobo and see if it works.


----------



## Sozin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DraganUS* 
Ouch man, it looks like u did, but take out cpu and inspect for any damage on it or mobo. If u have other chip test it out with mobo and see if it works.

Wow...this is a brand new 620 I just got today. I don't have any other way of testing the socket.

Pictures.



















I assume that the mark shown above that wraps all along the CPU is some proof of burning?

EDIT//

Everything powers on. All the lights and fans and hard drives and even the cooling system all run, but even after switching out the GPUs nothing is shown on the screen.


----------



## Pinoytrek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
Probably winter temps.









I had to downclock to 160 BCLK (but with full 26x turbo on). And I still hit 80 deg. Ambient temps are 32 deg now @ 9PM. Hit 42 deg outside this afternoon









That's spot on. That's my rig, I'm based in the UK and the whole country is frozen







. However, when the heater is up and my cpu is close to a radiator, idle is 44c and I still get a respectable 79c load temp.

I used Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm to push as intake (there's a good review somewhere about the strength of this fan pushing air through radiators vs stronger fan) and AC ryan Blackfire4 for pull (beware - the AC ryan fan can be loud).


----------



## Pinoytrek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sozin* 
Wow...this is a brand new 620 I just got today. I don't have any other way of testing the socket.

Pictures.



















I assume that the mark shown above that wraps all along the CPU is some proof of burning?

EDIT//

Everything powers on. All the lights and fans and hard drives and even the cooling system all run, but even after switching out the GPUs nothing is shown on the screen.

Try removing the motherboard battery for 5-10 secs and insert it back again.


----------



## Sozin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pinoytrek* 
Try removing the motherboard battery for 5-10 secs and insert it back again.

I could **** you right now. That worked.


----------



## Evil-Jester

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
Also stop being lazy and alphabetize that list!


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
You gotta be kidding me

















*Because I CAN*

Quote:

Alc0hol
Alecmm61
Alexhughes79
Andru
AndyWxy
Antonio8
Arbalest
Ardentx
ASl33pR0
Asuindasun
Aznboy1993

Bane99
BCC
Benl.jacobs
BinaryDemon
Blasphemy
BoxingSurfer

Candy_van
Capwn
Cavi
Catalyst
Chizzau
Chr0n1c
Closeracing
Cluffenstein
Code-Red
Crantana
Cyberbot
Cyclometric

Dafour
Dallus
Deegan
Deviance
Diabolical999
Dolo001
DOOOLY
Dorksterr
DraganUS
Dragonxwas

EchoTomcat
Edgarejc
Elementskater706
enigma1934
Epidemic

Fencefeet
Fireisdangerous84
Fraudbrand
[email protected]

Gamerig
Ghoxt
Gunderman456

Halifax1
Hitman1985
Hondajt
Hxcnero

Iamwardicus
Inraged Twitch
Itank

Jam1e
Jocelyn84
Jo3f1sh
Jura55ic

Kev b
Kevingreenbmx
Kikaider
Killerxx7
Killhouse
Kyleax1

Leppie
Looser101

Mav2000
McLaren_F1
Med1kl
Megalith1c
Meru
Metallicamaster3
MindBlank
Wire
Mitch88ell
Mlcollins33
MonsterRP
Mootsfox
MRHANDS
Mypcisugly

Nathris
Nekon
Newbie2009
Nseaton1

Opty165
Orangecat32
Ounderfla69

PandaDuy
PC Gamer
Pings
Pinoytrek
Pluke the 2
Preyash

Ragsters
Raiden911
Raul-7
Rick Arter
Ritchwell
Rottnpup
Ryanb-213
Ryanrenolds08
R31ncarnat3d
R34p3rex

Sacmo77
Scart
Sethy666
Sexybastard
ShadowDragon
Shaneface414
ShortySmalls
SickStew
Sillymansam
Sintricate
Skitzogreg
Skorpio
SonDa5
Spendous
SpykeZ
STDSkillz
Stanrc
Stiger
Sti-06
Striker833
Svtfmook
Swoosh19

TempestxPR
ThePaperRoute
The Russian
TheTurk
Tlxxxsracer
Toan
Toxicadam
Tragedies
Trogdor
Tryxx
Tke395

uNick
Unikko
Unixwizzrd
USAFFCC

Vargess
Veblen
Videoman5
vrm4

Waterox
Willhemmens
Wuyanxu

XiZeL
Xquisit
Xmisery

Yawa
Yoshimanitsu

zero9046

3volvedcombat
All "Killhouse" has to do is copy and paste it and keep it updated







i hope you like what i do in my spare time lol


----------



## Cavi

I'm so not on that list


----------



## Evil-Jester

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cavi* 
I'm so not on that list









i copied right off the front page blame killhouse for not updating it lol BUT i will add you right now


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evil-Jester* 
*Because I CAN*


Your such a good egg... Im sure its will be appreciated









Quote:


Originally Posted by *sozin*
I could **** you right now. That worked.

Im very glad your new CPU isnt dead... I would have cried!


----------



## nsilva

After I added on the old Antec fan that was on the back of my case before I added the H50, running push pull.

Lower temps over time, who knew.


----------



## Sozin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Im very glad your new CPU isnt dead... I would have cried!

I would have too! I'm running 3DMark 06 as we speak. My Athlon II X4 is already sitting at 3.2 GHz....I love this thing.

The H50 is also whisper quite compared to my old AC64 Pro.

EDIT

13422 Marks. Now if I could only figure how to run the voltages. It is constantly at 1.40, which puts my temps about 45C according to CoreTemp.


----------



## Evil-Jester

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Your such a good egg... Im sure its will be appreciated









thanks lol i woke up this morning and started it out of board-um and finished it after school. shows how much free time i have on my hands hehehe


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sozin* 
I could **** you right now. That worked.

Lucky escape mate - in future make sure that all the slots on the rings of the H50 bracket line up with the little clips on the H50. If, like you said, there is a gap between the CPU and the H50 you have done something seriously wrong and I'm surprised your CPU survived







but it's all cool now









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evil-Jester* 
*Because I CAN*
All "Killhouse" has to do is copy and paste it and keep it updated







i hope you like what i do in my spare time lol

If you lived a bit nearer I would totally come and hug you right now







:

+







, great job!

*EDIT:* Look what I just found








http://sortmylist.com/


----------



## Evil-Jester

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
If you lived a bit nearer I would totally come and hug you right now







:

+







, great job!

*EDIT:* Look what I just found








http://sortmylist.com/

YAY the kind of reaction i was looking for lol and with that website it takes all the fun out of doing it yourself lol and its also cheating lolz jking but good find

ALSO i LOVE your +rep comment for those who want to know what it is well hear it is "<3 <3 <3 <3 <3 I dont know who you are but I love you ~Killhouse!". Thanks Killhouse you made my not so good day a better day just by your reaction


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evil-Jester* 
YAY the kind of reaction i was looking for lol and with that website it takes all the fun out of doing it yourself lol and its also cheating lolz jking but good find

I enjoyed the personal touch


----------



## Capwn

Alright its decided after seeing Willhemmens' Reservoir Mod I'm going to go ahead and do something similar to mine. I really wish I had more pictures of the cooler taken completely apart. I have a few questions.
1. I noticed in his first tube mod this photo has me confused. Is he saying we are supposed to cut these down and reuse them . I dont get it.
2. where the hoses go into the pump and rad. Are there just regular nipple or barb like fittings to slide the hose onto . Ive looked at all the photos and I jsut cant get a real grasp of what Im getting myself into.
LINK to first mod thats got my brain twisted.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Capwn* 
Alright its decided after seeing Willhemmens' Reservoir Mod I'm going to go ahead and do something similar to mine. I really wish I had more pictures of the cooler taken completely apart. I have a few questions.
1. I noticed in his first tube mod this photo has me confused. Is he saying we are supposed to cut these down and reuse them . I dont get it.
2. where the hoses go into the pump and rad. Are there just regular nipple or barb like fittings to slide the hose onto . Ive looked at all the photos and I jsut cant get a real grasp of what Im getting myself into.
LINK to first mod thats got my brain twisted.

I've had a look at what you're talking about and can't work it out either, he's quite active on OCN though so I suggest PM'ing him as this post will probably get left behind in some new revelatory shroud debate, and he'll never see it again









I think he is saying that you need to cut the barbs, but I would check with him how you should do it just in case it doesent become apparent as you mod - it's a cut you can only make once.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Thank you for the link Sethy/GAMERIG, I dont know who got their first. I will add it to the FAQ on Push/Pull.

Doesnt matter really... just happy to contribute, aint we Gamerig?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Capwn* 
Alright its decided after seeing Willhemmens' Reservoir Mod I'm going to go ahead and do something similar to mine. I really wish I had more pictures of the cooler taken completely apart. I have a few questions.
1. I noticed in his first tube mod this photo has me confused. Is he saying we are supposed to cut these down and reuse them . I dont get it.
2. where the hoses go into the pump and rad. Are there just regular nipple or barb like fittings to slide the hose onto . Ive looked at all the photos and I jsut cant get a real grasp of what Im getting myself into.
LINK to first mod thats got my brain twisted.

1. The photo is of the end of one of the pipes. Like this: This

The reason i had to cut them off is that they wont come off the barb.

Picture

The red bit is where i cut the tube and the blue bit is where i slid my knife down.

2. On the pump, there are two removable barbs that are sealed with two O rings.

To remove the two barbs, undo the screw in this photo. Photo.

This is what the end of the barb looks like: Photo

Once removed they are just like regular barbs.

If you want more photo's, im taking the loop apart again tomorrow to shorten a tube. If you want more photo's, just say.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I've had a look at what you're talking about and can't work it out either, he's quite active on OCN though so I suggest PM'ing him as this post will probably get left behind in some new revelatory shroud debate, and he'll never see it again









I think he is saying that you need to cut the barbs, but I would check with him how you should do it just in case it doesent become apparent as you mod - it's a cut you can only make once.

Thanks for giving him aheads up. I hope i explained well enough. You dont want to cut the barb, you want to cut the tubing off the barb as corsair put it on super tight to stop leaks.


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
1. The photo is of the end of one of the pipes. Like this: This

The reason i had to cut them off is that they wont come off the barb.

Picture

The red bit is where i cut the tube and the blue bit is where i slid my knife down.

2. On the pump, there are two removable barbs that are sealed with two O rings.

To remove the two barbs, undo the screw in this photo. Photo.

This is what the end of the barb looks like: Photo

Once removed they are just like regular barbs.

If you want more photo's, im taking the loop apart again tomorrow to shorten a tube. If you want more photo's, just say.

Awesome.. thanks man. Yeah more photos will help alot. Just basicly a step by step guide would be amazing to have in the community


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Capwn* 
Awesome.. thanks man. Yeah more photos will help alot. Just basicly a step by step guide would be amazing to have in the community









Ok, i will see what i can do tomorrow. Do you want the guide to include adding the Res?


----------



## Capwn

Why not the more pics = that many less questions .


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Capwn* 
Why not the more pics = that many less questions .

Ok. I will make up a new thread and post it there when i have rebuilt her.


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyclometric* 

With Shroud in Push+Pull
*Intake*: Push Fan>>Rad>>Shroud>>Pull Fan
Max Temp: *46*
*Exhaust*: Pull Fan<<Rad<<Shroud<<Push Fan
Max Temp: *49.5
*
Without Shroud in Push+Pull
*Intake:* Push Fan>>Rad>>Pull Fan
Max Temp: *45*
*Exhaust*: Pull Fan<<Rad<<Push Fan
Max Temp: *49*


For the best exhaust results (Push⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Pull)

For the best intake results (Push⇉H50⇉Shroud⇉Pull)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ThePaperRoute* 
Where can i buy a fan shroud ?

Check out the *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink*, we have gathered all sorts of stuff for the H50. This link is on the front page for further reference.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I'm surprised by this. Putting a shroud before your push fan (the bolded bit in the quote) should make no difference whatsoever to temperatures, which also suggests that when you have a shroud between your push fan and the radiator (your first suggestion) you should have improved nothing over normal push/pull, since you report no difference between the two. This is confusing.

I would imagine that your current setup is the best:
Push -> Shroud -> H50 -> Pull
but it should be a noticable improvement over:
Shroud -> Push -> H50 -> Pull
which should net you no gain over normal push/pull.

Yea me 2, I think it might be a winter time fluke. That's why I have it in (Push⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Pull) now. Like it should be. Because when I tried it again this morning the temps were not the same. I've only tried that once before the other way, when I did it for the second time it was more of a real benchmark, because I was matching ambient temperatures. When I did the other test the other day, I was not matching ambient temperatures like I have done with my other tests. Again there was a there was a 10Â°C difference. (Push⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Pull) - (Push⇉H50⇉Shroud⇉Pull) seams to be king for the shroud placement.


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
It should be mounted in it's normal position, on the back of the case but still inside.










Pretty awesome, because I never though about rotating the part of the H50 that mounts on top of the CPU.

The Storm Scout isn't a huge case, and I was wondering if I rotated my tubes a lil' farther away from the rad...maybe it would bend less. I should try it out


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
For the best exhaust results (Push⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Pull)

For the best intake results (Push⇉H50⇉Shroud⇉Pull)

Check out the *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink*, we have gathered all sorts of stuff for the H50. This link is on the front page for further reference.

Yea me 2, I think it might be a winter time fluke. That's why I have it in (Push⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Pull) now. Like it should be. Because when I tried it again this morning the temps were not the same. I've only tried that once before the other way, when I did it for the second time it was more of a real benchmark, because I was matching ambient temperatures. When I did the other test the other day, I was not matching ambient temperatures like I have done with my other tests. Again there was a there was a 10Â°C difference. (Push⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Pull) - (Push⇉H50⇉Shroud⇉Pull) seams to be king for the shroud placement.

Unfortunately when I installed my side panel fans, I did not take into account the room I would need to install a push fan. So pull|shroud|rad is my only option. But it works good so I'm not complaining.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pinoytrek* 
That's spot on. That's my rig, I'm based in the UK and the whole country is frozen







. However, when the heater is up and my cpu is close to a radiator, idle is 44c and I still get a respectable 79c load temp.

I used Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm to push as intake (there's a good review somewhere about the strength of this fan pushing air through radiators vs stronger fan) and AC ryan Blackfire4 for pull (beware - the AC ryan fan can be loud).

Nice temps! I'd like to push mine to 4.2ghz stable, but, I'm still running stock fans. I'm looking to order some new fans though soon for my H50 and heard great things about those Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm fans on radiators. You think it would be best to get 2 of the Typhoons or 2 of the AC Ryan's?


----------



## Sozin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Lucky escape mate - in future make sure that all the slots on the rings of the H50 bracket line up with the little clips on the H50. If, like you said, there is a gap between the CPU and the H50 you have done something seriously wrong and I'm surprised your CPU survived







but it's all cool now









Believe me I can't believe it either. But it's running at a nice 30C idle, which I can't really complain about. And the 620 is at a nice and stable 3.3Ghz, and like I said this thing is whisper quiet.

Definitely am happy with my purchase for sure.


----------



## Xeroni

My new case finally came in so now I won't be ashamed of having no cable management like my old 300. I was trying to put the rad on the top but with the 140mm fan there I didn't have enough room.


----------



## BIGWORM

Got a question for you H50 owners, as I'd like to be one myself in the near future:

Will this cooler fit as a push-pull setup in an Antec P180 case, with a GB P45-UD3R board? I'm thinking adding the 2nd 120 for a push-pull will be cutting it too close to the cooler's copper base. I've been searching for someone else who's asked the question in google, but nothing. Can anyone help?


----------



## Capwn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BIGWORM*


Got a question for you H50 owners, as I'd like to be one myself in the near future:

Will this cooler fit as a push-pull setup in an Antec P180 case, with a GB P45-UD3R board? I'm thinking adding the 2nd 120 for a push-pull will be cutting it too close to the cooler's copper base. I've been searching for someone else who's asked the question in google, but nothing. Can anyone help?


If your tight on space you can mount one of the fans on the outside of the case. --- fan --- casewall --- rad --- fan. With or without a shroud and intake or exhaust whichever you prefer.


----------



## BIGWORM

Problem is, the rear exaust of my case has its own shroud, and it's beveled. =/


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cyclometric*


Ran 4 tests in OCCT, 30 minutes each time with the following setups and results:

With Shroud in Push+Pull
*Intake*: Push Fan>>Rad>>Shroud>>Pull Fan
Max Temp: *46*
*Exhaust*: Pull Fan<<Rad<<Shroud<<Push Fan
Max Temp: * 49.5
* 
Without Shroud in Push+Pull
*Intake: *Push Fan>>Rad>>Pull Fan
Max Temp:* 45*
*Exhaust*: Pull Fan<<Rad<<Push Fan
Max Temp: *49*

I just realized that I screwed up the test for Shroud/Exhaust. I put the shroud between the Push & the Rad, and it should go between the Pull Fan & the Rad. Will retest and expect better results with that setup, but so far the winner is No Shroud, Intaking air.

Whenever running H50 fans as intake, I would flip the top front fan to exhaust, also, so the air at the top of the case should be a straight shot over the radiator and directly out the front, the only obstacle being the Corsair Heatsink itself.

I know some have said the shroud wouldn't be worth putting on, but I never imagined I would get cooler temps *without* the shroud at all.

I'll rerun that Exhaust/Shroud test and report back again.


OK, I reran the Exhaust test, using the shroud between the pull fan and the rad, and I also received my second shroud in the mail today, so I ran both intake and exhaust tests with shrouds between both the push & the pull fans -- the results astounded me, but it looks like I am going to be removing both shrouds and running as intake, push pull (next 4 tests: one fan only, push intake, pull intake, push exhaust, pull exhaust).

All of these tests were conducted with a Xigmatek Dark Knight fan on full speed (2000rpm, 89cfm) on the outside face of the rad, and an ACRyan Blackfire4 fan on full speed (2000rpm, 79cfm) on the inside face rad, flipping the fans in place from intake to exhaust & back, depending on the test.

Results:
Exhaust 
No Shroud: 49
Pull Shroud: 49.5
2 Shrouds: 49
Intake
No Shroud: 45
Pull Shroud: 46
2 Shrouds: 48

I guess that guy who said putting a shroud on won't do any good was more right than I expected -- the shrouds on my system actually raise the temps. I wonder if that speaks to the low static pressure of my fans, more than being shrouded... Now I think I'm at at the point where only better fans will improve my temps.


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xquisit*


Pretty awesome, because I never though about rotating the part of the H50 that mounts on top of the CPU.

The Storm Scout isn't a huge case, and I was wondering if I rotated my tubes a lil' farther away from the rad...maybe it would bend less. I should try it out










Yea Corsair says you can bend the heck out the tubes with no temperature difference. I say don't, I believe its not a good idea to put stress on tubes that have liquid inside them. Especially inside our PCs.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dkev*


Unfortunately when I installed my side panel fans, I did not take into account the room I would need to install a push fan. So pull|shroud|rad is my only option. But it works good so I'm not complaining.


You can try (Push⇇Shroud⇇Case|H50⇇Pull) or (Push⇇Case|Shroud⇇H50⇇Pull). Like I did:



Quote:



Originally Posted by *BIGWORM*


Got a question for you H50 owners, as I'd like to be one myself in the near future:

Will this cooler fit as a push-pull setup in an Antec P180 case, with a GB P45-UD3R board? I'm thinking adding the 2nd 120 for a push-pull will be cutting it too close to the cooler's copper base. I've been searching for someone else who's asked the question in google, but nothing. Can anyone help?


I think you can some guy in the UK is selling a Antec P180 mini with the H50. I'll take that back after looking at other PICs of your case, the H50 will definitely fit.


----------



## BIGWORM

That Antec you linked in the Mini, I have the OG fat P180. I'm not sure if the clearance is different, but ultimately depends on the board. I'm not sure what the measurements are from the left edge of the board to the CPU mounting brackets. I may have another 3-4mm clearance from the outer edge of the mounting brackets to the top-most part of the H50 cooper base. I'm just hoping I don't have to go buy wire cutters so I can stack a 120 on the outside of the case...


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


For the best exhaust results (Push⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Pull)

For the best intake results (Push⇉H50⇉Shroud⇉Pull)

....

That's why I have it in (Push⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Pull) now. 
...

(Push⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Pull) - (Push⇉H50⇉Shroud⇉Pull)


Your arrows are completely confusing me!! Shouldn't arrows from a Push fan always be "pushing" away from it, i.e. 
Push>> or >>Push or Push⇉ or ⇇Push
This
Push⇇
makes no sense to me...

Likewise with:
Pull<< or ⇉Pull
instead of 
⇇Pull

Sorry, I'm just not getting it any more. Aaargh.


----------



## Pings

Cyclometric I'm just showing the direction of air flow. Don't mind what is pushing what is pulling. That's all perspective according to the air flow. I'm more using the term push-pull than putting the words in order.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BIGWORM*


That Antec you linked in the Mini, I have the OG fat P180. I'm not sure if the clearance is different, but ultimately depends on the board. I'm not sure what the measurements are from the left edge of the board to the CPU mounting brackets. I may have another 3-4mm clearance from the outer edge of the mounting brackets to the top-most part of the H50 cooper base. I'm just hoping I don't have to go buy wire cutters so I can stack a 120 on the outside of the case...



I still say yes. I'm trying to figure out what exactly you're trying to get at, but this is what I found. I hope it helps.

• GA-EP45-UD3R:










• GA-EP45T-UD3P:










Then I found this here:


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cyclometric*


Sorry, I'm just not getting it any more. Aaargh.










I concur!

@Pings: Fix your notation


----------



## Hurricane-

I just got one today







So had me to please.

I just need the second fan that I didn't know of before now


----------



## Tandrial

Okay, after waiting for nearly two weeks (damn you http://byit24.es-shops.de/eshop.php NEVER AGAIN) I got mine.

Tried to set it up and first failure of the day, the tubes are to long for my case. After thinking about it for a while I came up with this.



the next step will be to cut into the case to make some holes for the tubing and fan power connection.

and yes I know cable management isn't there, but since I have no airflow to begin with, why bother? And Since I'm waiting for the CM 690 II adv. to come out I'm not going to spend hours to make it look pretty


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cyclometric*


OK, I reran the Exhaust test, using the shroud between the pull fan and the rad, and I also received my second shroud in the mail today, so I ran both intake and exhaust tests with shrouds between both the push & the pull fans -- the results astounded me, but it looks like I am going to be removing both shrouds and running as intake, push pull (next 4 tests: one fan only, push intake, pull intake, push exhaust, pull exhaust).


Have you considered doubling up on the shrouds? For example testing it like so:

Fan | Shroud | Shroud | H50 | Fan

and

Fan | H50 | Shroud | Shroud | Fan

Both in exhaust and then as intake? Curious to see if you get cooler temps with a double shroud (2x25mm for air to travel)


----------



## leppie

A question to those using shrouds.

Do you actually seal it? Generally there is already a fairly 'big' gap between the RAD and the fan. Most homemade shrouds will also have these gaps/holes.

I suspect sealing the sides/gaps with some insulation tape should provide better pressure.


----------



## Tandrial

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Have you considered doubling up on the shrouds? For example testing it like so:

Fan | Shroud | Shroud | H50 | Fan

and

Fan | H50 | Shroud | Shroud | Fan

Both in exhaust and then as intake? Curious to see if you get cooler temps with a double shroud (2x25mm for air to travel)


Someone already did an analysis of how the Shroud depth effects the Temperatur: here is the page http://martin.skinneelabs.com/Radiat...ng-Review.html

what it boils down to is this neat little graph










How to read this. X-Axis is Shroud depth and Y-Axis is the Temp delta from the air coming into the rad and the water coming out of the rad.


----------



## Willhemmens

Got my new updated guide up here: Here


----------



## Pinoytrek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
Nice temps! I'd like to push mine to 4.2ghz stable, but, I'm still running stock fans. I'm looking to order some new fans though soon for my H50 and heard great things about those Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm fans on radiators. You think it would be best to get 2 of the Typhoons or 2 of the AC Ryan's?

I would go for 2 GTs, I'm not really happy with the AC ryan because of the noise and I'm thinking of replacing these. If I find time, I'll do some research on a good pull fan, I read something about the Sharkoon Silent Eagle being a good candidate for moving a lot of air and silent at the same time.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pinoytrek* 
I would go for 2 GTs, I'm not really happy with the AC ryan because of the noise and I'm thinking of replacing these. If I find time, I'll do some research on a good pull fan, I read something about the Sharkoon Silent Eagle being a good candidate for moving a lot of air and silent at the same time.

GT's are my fave fans. Using 2x1850rpm on my push-pull. Even at full speed they are very bearable, but I use a fan controller with temp control for optimum noise/performance.


----------



## Bane99

Hey guys, quick question. How do you add the link to this club to my signature? Thanks


----------



## Killhouse

If you look at the bottom of the first post just below where the Sig is quoted there is a code box, just copy and paste the contents of that


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pinoytrek*


I would go for 2 GTs, I'm not really happy with the AC ryan because of the noise and I'm thinking of replacing these. If I find time, I'll do some research on a good pull fan, I read something about the Sharkoon Silent Eagle being a good candidate for moving a lot of air and silent at the same time.


Yeah, I was leaning towards the GT's. Although, I've heard good things about the Ultra Kaze 2000 and 3000 as well as the San Ace's. Tough decision, but, I guess you probably can't go wrong with choosing any of these fans. My other thoughts were to do away with the (2) 120x25mm fans and go with just a single 120x35mm instead. But then I just read that someone was testing shroud configurations out and got great results with a 50mm shroud (2) 25mm together. Decisions, Decisions...


----------



## Pinoytrek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
Yeah, I was leaning towards the GT's. Although, I've heard good things about the Ultra Kaze 2000 and 3000 as well as the San Ace's. Tough decision, but, I guess you probably can't go wrong with choosing any of these fans. My other thoughts were to do away with the (2) 120x25mm fans and go with just a single 120x35mm instead. But then I just read that someone was testing shroud configurations out and got great results with a 50mm shroud (2) 25mm together. Decisions, Decisions...









Suggest you read through some of these, may help you decide.

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/coo...est-case-fan/5

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coo...s-roundup.html


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tandrial* 
Someone already did an analysis of how the Shroud depth effects the Temperatur: here is the page http://martin.skinneelabs.com/Radiat...ng-Review.html

what it boils down to is this neat little graph










How to read this. X-Axis is Shroud depth and Y-Axis is the Temp delta from the air coming into the rad and the water coming out of the rad.

+rep Thanks!

Very interesting read. So it looks like 30mm is the optimal point that yields the best results and said that by using a 25mm shroud + 35mm push fan would place you right in that sweet spot! That's probably what I'll do then.

I measured the inside of my case to see how much distance I had left after my current 25mm pull fan | 25mm H50 | 25mm push fan (75mm total) and I have 10mm left before it snuggly rests against the Corsair heatsink. I know others have placed fans on the outside of their cases, but, I prefer to keep everything on the inside. So with only a total of 85mm to work with, I think the best route to take is: | Case <- H50 <- 25mm Shroud <- 35mm Push Fan | (in exhaust mode).

Can anyone recommend maybe the Top 2 or 3 35mm fans for this kind of setup?


----------



## fireisdangerous84

Installed my TFC Xtender Radiator Shroud

fans rad set up as

push-shroud-rad-pull idle temps drop from 30c to 25c awsome , heres some pics


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
I concur!

@Pings: Fix your notation









Don't mind what is pushing what is pulling. *That's all perspective according to the air flow*. That is common sense, if you can't figure that out on your own, that's to bad. I'm more using the term push-pull than putting the words in order.

That's like if I'm trying to explain exhaust vs intake, and I show the exhaust arrows in the wrong direction. If I add an extra arrow does it make more sense? Exhaust = (⇇Push⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Pull) - Intake (Push⇉H50⇉Shroud⇉Pull⇉) Push and pull is perspective according to the air flow. Do I really have to further explain this? Sorry I do stuff like this for a living, what might be common sense for me, might be new to you.










leppie Aslo you set up your H50 wrong, it should be in exhaust.


----------



## cl04k3d

I bought this, installed it on my i7.

At stock my max load temp in linx was 51c, but when I overclocked it to 4.3ghz which is what I had on my megahalem(1.26v), it decided not to boot into windows. What could I have done wrong? I love the design of it. There is no leaks or anything so I know its working right.

I think I might just sell it then if its not gonna cool as good as my megahalem.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cl04k3d*


I bought this, installed it on my i7.

At stock my max load temp in linx was 51c, but when I overclocked it to 4.3ghz which is what I had on my megahalem(1.26v), it decided not to boot into windows. What could I have done wrong? I love the design of it. There is no leaks or anything so I know its working right.

I think I might just sell it then if its not gonna cool as good as my megahalem.


Were you running any fans on it? If so, what type of fans and were they setup in a push/pull configuration? Also, you may want to try and re-seat the pump onto your cpu, sometimes that helps if it wasn't placed on perfectly the first time.


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cl04k3d*


I bought this, installed it on my i7.

At stock my max load temp in linx was 51c, but when I overclocked it to 4.3ghz which is what I had on my megahalem(1.26v), it decided not to boot into windows. What could I have done wrong? I love the design of it. There is no leaks or anything so I know its working right.

I think I might just sell it then if its not gonna cool as good as my megahalem.


Post some PICs of your setup. Are you in intake or exhaust? Have you tried a shroud. After setting up the H50 in the correct way. My H50 kicks the crap out of my Megahalem. My H50 and my Megahalem were neck and neck stock, with my H50 tweaked its not even close.


----------



## cl04k3d

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


Post some PICs of your setup. Are you in intake or exhaust? Have you tried a shroud. After setting up the H50 in the correct way. My H50 kicks the crap out of my Megahalem. My H50 and my Megahalem were neck and neck stock, with my H50 tweaked its not even close.


PMed


----------



## Maximous

Hey folks.

Me my self dont have a H50, but im wondering if anybody have tried to lapped their h50? Are there any guides? Easyest way that i can think of must be to disconnect the rad and loop so u just have the block it self. OR?


----------



## DraganUS

Why would u lap it, the base is pretty much flat.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
Don't mind what is pushing what is pulling. *That's all perspective according to the air flow*. That is common sense, if you can't figure that out on your own, that's to bad. I'm more using the term push-pull than putting the words in order.

That's like if I'm trying to explain exhaust vs intake, and I show the exhaust arrows in the wrong direction. If I add an extra arrow does it make more sense? Exhaust = (⇇Push⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Pull) - Intake (Push⇉H50⇉Shroud⇉Pull⇉) Push and pull is perspective according to the air flow. Do I really have to further explain this? Sorry I do stuff like this for a living, what might be common sense for me, might be new to you....

Pings,

just because you do HVAC for a living, does not excuse the fact that you can't seem to get your simple flow diagrams to match with what your saying (arrows pointing right direction maybe?).

This is a place of LEARNING. Not for some people who think they're PC Gods to talk down to others like they're stupid, and just expect them to understand their half-***ed attempt to convey their already cryptic information.

I'm all for you explaining why you believe certain things, but post up with some actual evidence to support your claims, and not just expect everyone to "understand" you. We didn't all goto votech school for HVAC.

Service Announcement Over.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Maximous*


Hey folks.

Me my self dont have a H50, but im wondering if anybody have tried to lapped their h50? Are there any guides? Easyest way that i can think of must be to disconnect the rad and loop so u just have the block it self. OR?


I think the best method would be to suspend the whole rig in the air by the radiator, leaving the pump/cpu block dangling down onto your work surface. It certainly wouldnt be the easiest thing to do. I think one person here did it, but noticed hardly any temperature change in the end.

Lets keep the posting friendly guys.

Though I must agree that "(⇇Push⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Pull)" makes absolutely no sense


----------



## Maximous

Hmm that whasnt any stupid idea. Maybe ill do just so. One or two C is better then nothing in my eyes







. I basicly have the same system but with a larger rad. Is it just me (northq) or is the h50 also flat offcourse, but do think they could have made it more "mirrorish"? Hope U guys dont mind me posting here with U









Thnx peeps


----------



## Killhouse

Of course not, this is why we're here







There is no denying that the H50 isnt mirror finished, but as heatsinks go it is a very smooth finish. Some heatsinks (such as a TRUE) are notorious for having bad surfaces, and lapping such a heatsink would often see big improvements. It seems that this isnt the case with the H50, which should be able to grant a mirror finish with comparatively little sanding.

I would love to hear your story on this if you go ahead and lap an H50


----------



## Maximous

Ill let u know, but it will be the one i have now, 
NORTHQ NQ-3590 Siberian Tiger 2 watercooler.

Thnx again


----------



## BIGWORM

Thanks for the help, Pings.


----------



## sexybastard

heres a video of my new mod... thanks for wilhemmens for the inspiration. my h50 has risen from the dead!

  
 YouTube- Corsair H50 Mod with Swiftech Micro Res


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


leppie Aslo you set up your H50 wrong, it should be in exhaust.


Not in the summer









When I replace my heater/graphics card, I'll change to exhaust. The poor beast idles at 60+ deg and generates a tonne of heat.









BTW, what I mean by wrong notation is that your arrow indicates that the push fan is in fan pulling. I think everyone that also find it confusing see it like that. The arrow is the airflow direction. So it is 'pushing' against nothing, so it cant be a push fan.


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


heres a video of my new mod... thanks for wilhemmens for the inspiration. my h50 has risen from the dead!

YouTube- Corsair H50 Mod with Swiftech Micro Res


Nice job!


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


Don't mind what is pushing what is pulling. *That's all perspective according to the air flow*. That is common sense, if you can't figure that out on your own, that's to bad. I'm more using the term push-pull than putting the words in order.

That's like if I'm trying to explain exhaust vs intake, and I show the exhaust arrows in the wrong direction. If I add an extra arrow does it make more sense? Exhaust = (⇇Push⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Pull) - Intake (Push⇉H50⇉Shroud⇉Pull⇉) Push and pull is perspective according to the air flow. Do I really have to further explain this? Sorry I do stuff like this for a living, what might be common sense for me, might be new to you.










leppie Aslo you set up your H50 wrong, it should be in exhaust.


I guess I'm one of the few that understood your diagram. Blue is ALWAYS intake and red is ALWAYS exhaust. I didn't even notice the arrows were facing the wrong way until someone pointed it out.


----------



## sexybastard

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *dkev*   Nice job!  
thanks

here it is completed and installed in my pc. its pretty nice... working perfectly. only thing is i didn't install the cover for the block so it doesn't look so nice. ill try putting it on when i feel like messing around with it again since i would have to remove the tubing to do it. otherwise though its nice. but in all honesty if you are going to try to go this route i would honestly just hand pick each component since the work is gonna be basically the same. you would end up with better temps because you can buy better parts... fatter tubing, better pump etc... but this was fun to do and not really that hard.

  
 YouTube- Corsair H50 Mod Completed


----------



## Vargess

Ok so I think I have to re-seat the block.. I am getting reports of 42c (idle) from HWmonitor on my cpu








After all the trouble I went thru today of getting my rma'd mobo in, having issues installing that, finding I have a bad stick of ram, etc. etc.. Now I get this









I tried following the instructions to mounting it, but it didn't quite feel sufficient. Is there any particular way of holding it in place while you screw it down?


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


Pings,

just because you do HVAC for a living, does not excuse the fact that you can't seem to get your simple flow diagrams to match with what your saying (arrows pointing right direction maybe?).

This is a place of LEARNING. Not for some people who think they're PC Gods to talk down to others like they're stupid, and just expect them to understand their half-***ed attempt to convey their already cryptic information.

I'm all for you explaining why you believe certain things, but post up with some actual evidence to support your claims, and not just expect everyone to "understand" you. We didn't all goto votech school for HVAC.

Service Announcement Over.










Don't get your panties in a bunch. You are the only one that took it like that and still doesn't understand. I was saying by the heat flow diagram was in my post. "*That's like if I'm trying to explain exhaust vs intake, and I('ll) show the exhaust arrows in the wrong direction.*" You're just trolling my posts looking for something to start crap over. Your hole basis of your argument is something you didn't understand, read, or was even part of the conversation. I was tired of explaining that the term Push/Push is perspective according to the air flow over and over. I was a little harsh in my wording. I didn't mean anything by it. I'll just stop posting here and helping people out.


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Maximous*


Hey folks.

Me my self dont have a H50, but im wondering if anybody have tried to lapped their h50? Are there any guides? Easyest way that i can think of must be to disconnect the rad and loop so u just have the block it self. OR?


I have lapped mine, and will maybe lap the CPU if needed tonite. (Edit: I'll take some pics of the H50 lap job and post them.)

I cant say if it helped, as the original TIM is very good on the unlapped surface. But I messed up my first seating, so I have been stuck with really crappy TIM till today.

You dont need to disassemble the unit to lap it. Just use a vice or a hand to hold the RAD while you sand with the other.


----------



## corsmem

Hello guys,I'm new here

Have A h50,will add some pictures later

I have a question,has anyones H50 leaked a little at the bottom plate?

when removing it the first tame from the cpu,the stock thermal paste was too greasy and a little bit dark colored,like it was wet


----------



## PCPaladin

Please add me to the club!
I wanted to wait until I finished my build, but I had to jump in and reply to Pings.

@Pings
I appreciate the testing you have done using shrouds, it has been very informative and helpful. Please don't be discouraged by some poster's criticism.








But, I too have been confused by you interchanging "push" and "pull". My understanding is that the radiator is the center of the equation. You either "push" cooling air to it or you "pull" warm air from it. Or both. Think about it. Thanks again for your input to this forum.









I'll upload some pictures when she's done and prettied up. My 2.5 inch #6-32 screws came in the mail today, so l can go <=|fan|shroud|case|H50|fan|<= in an exhaust (hot air out the back). My side panels have a couple 80mm fans feeding fresh air to it so the cooling air shouldn't be too warm.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vargess*


Ok so I think I have to re-seat the block.. I am getting reports of 42c (idle) from HWmonitor on my cpu








After all the trouble I went thru today of getting my rma'd mobo in, having issues installing that, finding I have a bad stick of ram, etc. etc.. Now I get this









I tried following the instructions to mounting it, but it didn't quite feel sufficient. Is there any particular way of holding it in place while you screw it down?


You may be using the wrong screws, of the 8 mounting screws that they provide you need to use the 4 smallest ones. Other than that just make sure that all the tabs on the bracket ring line up with the tabs on the H50 block as you tighten it down. It's not the simplest thing in the world









Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


I have lapped mine, and will maybe lap the CPU if needed tonite. (Edit: I'll take some pics of the H50 lap job and post them.)

I cant say if it helped, as the original TIM is very good on the unlapped surface. But I messed up my first seating, so I have been stuck with really crappy TIM till today.

You dont need to disassemble the unit to lap it. Just use a vice or a hand to hold the RAD while you sand with the other.


Ah we have a lapper, looking forward to some photos. I can see its difficult to say if it provided an improvement, but did it feel like the surface was quite uneven as you were sanding it?

@corsmem and PCPaladin: Welcome to the club and welcome to OCN!









@sexybastard: Great job on that res mod, I'm sure Will is proud! Great to see that your pump returned to life, are you planning anything else? Maybe another go at the dual rad?


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Ah we have a lapper, looking forward to some photos. I can see its difficult to say if it provided an improvement, but did it feel like the surface was quite uneven as you were sanding it?


While it was quite flat, it seemed to be quite rough too. I did take about an hour to get it relatively smooth finishing on 1200 grit.

I didnt have a marker to actually test it, but will recheck tonite when replacing the old TIM.

Picture will be provided


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCPaladin* 
Please add me to the club!

I'll upload some pictures when she's done and prettied up. My 2.5 inch #6-32 screws came in the mail today, so l can go <=|fan|shroud|case|H50|fan|<= in an exhaust (hot air out the back). My side panels have a couple 80mm fans feeding fresh air to it so the cooling air shouldn't be too warm.

Welcome to OCN! Looking forward to seeing your newly built rig. Keep us posted when she's all done and have some temps to report back.


----------



## Cavi

Pop this question out to the group:

Stock TIM (Shin Etsu?) or ICD7? Had a brief chat with a fellow H50 owner who said ICD7 was insanely better, so I thought I would come here to confirm before I pulled my fresh tube out of my desk.


----------



## leppie

Here is some really bad quality pics of the lapped H50.

Attachment 137297

Attachment 137298


----------



## leppie

Here is my constructed drive bay fan mod.

Attachment 137299

Attachment 137300

Attachment 137301

Attachment 137302


----------



## sintricate

When lapping, did you take it apart? Is it possible to take the base off or would that expose the liquid?


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Have you considered doubling up on the shrouds? For example testing it like so:

Fan | Shroud | Shroud | H50 | Fan

and

Fan | H50 | Shroud | Shroud | Fan

Both in exhaust and then as intake? Curious to see if you get cooler temps with a double shroud (2x25mm for air to travel)


I hadn't considered it yesterday, but today, I am still somewhat stymied by the results on my machine: a shroud in either position seemed to raise temps. I was considering doubling up fans next, i.e.

Fan | Fan | H50 (intake)

probably with & without shrouds, but I think I should add double shrouds in there, too. Hey, why not test all these differences, it's pretty fun. Though I am a bit surprised at how different the results can be on a "case by case" basis, literally.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tandrial*


Someone already did an analysis of how the Shroud depth effects the Temperatur: here is the page http://martin.skinneelabs.com/Radiat...ng-Review.html


I wish I understood better why my results with a shroud were not better. I am considering starting over from scratch, tesing very methodically and being mindful of modifying just one factor at a time, i.e. "single fan, push, intake", "single fan, push, shroud, intake", etc.

Also perhaps using a different stress program for calculating max temp -- although OCCT makes it really hard to compare, since the default graphs/images are so handy.

thx,


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cyclometric*


I hadn't considered it yesterday, but today, I am still somewhat stymied by the results on my machine: a shroud in either position seemed to raise temps. I was considering doubling up fans next, i.e.

Fan | Fan | H50 (intake)

probably with & without shrouds, but I think I should add double shrouds in there, too. Hey, why not test all these differences, it's pretty fun. Though I am a bit surprised at how different the results can be on a "case by case" basis, literally.

I wish I understood better why my results with a shroud were not better. I am considering starting over from scratch, tesing very methodically and being mindful of modifying just one factor at a time, i.e. "single fan, push, intake", "single fan, push, shroud, intake", etc.

Also perhaps using a different stress program for calculating max temp -- although OCCT makes it really hard to compare, since the default graphs/images are so handy.

thx,


What fans are you using? It sounds like the fans your using don't have very good static pressure. Also, what RPM's are they spinning at? Double fans will not help. That config may make things worse. I use CM R4's at 2k RPM. Despite what anyone thinks they know, these fan's have monster static pressure. With a shroud, I only need to use one fan to pull through the rad. My delta is only 6c over idle when under full load. Great fans.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cavi* 
Pop this question out to the group:

Stock TIM (Shin Etsu?) or ICD7? Had a brief chat with a fellow H50 owner who said ICD7 was insanely better, so I thought I would come here to confirm before I pulled my fresh tube out of my desk.

ICD7 >> Shin Etsu
Shin Etsu >> MX3 or AC5
Thats basically how it goes. Stock paste is good, but ICD7 is certainly awesome.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
Here is some really bad quality pics of the lapped H50.

Pretty







I may try this, I know you have no firm results but do you feel that this made a difference?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
Here is my constructed drive bay fan mod.

Nice work mate! Some nice modding there.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyclometric* 
...*I was considering doubling up fans* next, i.e.

*Fan | Fan | H50 (intake)*

probably...

It is commonly agreed that doubling fans up provides no benefit at all, you are quite likely to just confuse the airflow. I'm quite sure you will see worse temps with this setup, but if you're going to try anyway I'll be curious


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
It is commonly agreed that doubling fans up provides no benefit at all, you are quite likely to just confuse the airflow. I'm quite sure you will see worse temps with this setup, but if you're going to try anyway I'll be curious









I might try, but yeah, especially given that I am using 2 different fans, I'll probably forgo this one, considering how much angst I go thru sometimes when the screws aren't finding the holes in the rad and I start sweating & cursing.
:swearing:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
What fans are you using? It sounds like the fans your using don't have very good static pressure. Also, what RPM's are they spinning at? Double fans will not help. That config may make things worse. I use CM R4's at 2k RPM. Despite what anyone thinks they know, these fan's have monster static pressure. With a shroud, I only need to use one fan to pull through the rad. My delta is only 6c over idle when under full load. Great fans.

Yeah, the fans are likely an issue. Right now I'm using an ACRyan Blackfire4 fan on the pull side, running @ 2000 rpm (supposed to be 79cfm) and on the push side the Xigmatek fan from the Dark Knight (dunno the model #) also @ 2000rpm (rated @ 81cfm); the Xigmatek I have read, has decent static pressure.

But I am shopping for better fans right now. I am thinking of perhaps two Gentle Typhoons, the high speed ones, on my fan controller, still in Push/Pull. Or maybe one of the 38mm San Ace's or Panaflos.


----------



## SpykeZ

Well, I'm on my new quad amd 965







Not gunna OC for a while but right now im running the max heat option for prime95 and isn't going over 47C

Have the radiator sandwhiched between two noctua P12's


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cyclometric*


But I am shopping for better fans right now. I am thinking of perhaps two Gentle Typhoons, the high speed ones, on my fan controller, still in Push/Pull. Or maybe one of the 38mm San Ace's or Panaflos.


This is what made me decide on the Gentle Typhoons, great performance at low noise levels. And even then they are much quieter with a shroud between them and the rad.










The article is here.


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cyclometric*


Fan | Fan | H50 (intake)


See my results here: http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ml#post8186633


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sintricate*


When lapping, did you take it apart? Is it possible to take the base off or would that expose the liquid?


You cant pull it apart without spilling water. But you dont need to.


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Pretty







I may try this, I know you have no firm results but do you feel that this made a difference?


Well, it didn't make it any worse









I kinda scratched my base of the H50 somewhere when it was hanging in the case. This also caused the scratches to be transferred to the CPU due to the twisting when mounting it, and for the TIM.

My CPU looked pretty flat, so I dont think I need to lap it.


----------



## DraganUS

Leppie, dude, use the edit button.


----------



## sexybastard

picture time!

Okay so I wasn't getting super improved temps with my modded h50 but I realized that I had mounted my reservoir so that it was touching one my graphics cards heat pipes. This obviously heated up the water. I moved it and my temps dropped a solid 7c. Now I am idling in the mid 30's (whereas as before it was low 40's and my Noctua was idling in the mid 40's) and it loads now at around ~67c and this is with a core i7 920 at 4.2ghz! I am really happy. I also added the cover for the h50... instead of removing the tubing to do it I just dremeled the plastic on the sides so I could slide it on. i am very happy with this setup now. It's cooling a good 8c better then the stock config. The res allows the water to cool even further so i think that's the biggest difference.

now for some pics





































here are the parts involved for this project and how much I paid for them

corsair h50 $60 (zipzoomfly)
1/4inch tubing $3 (home depot)
swiftech microres $23 (microcenter)
2 x 1/4inch danger den barbs $6 (microcenter)

total cost $92

Overall... not super cheap but I think for the final temps and looks I think it was well worth it.


----------



## Pinoytrek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dkev*


What fans are you using? It sounds like the fans your using don't have very good static pressure. Also, what RPM's are they spinning at? Double fans will not help. That config may make things worse. I use CM R4's at 2k RPM. Despite what anyone thinks they know, these fan's have monster static pressure. With a shroud, I only need to use one fan to pull through the rad. My delta is only 6c over idle when under full load. Great fans.


I'm impress with the 6c delta over idle. Did you change the stock thermal paste of H50, if so what are you using? I must say, mine jumps from 44c to 79c when primed. Use gentle typhoon 1850 to push and AC ryan to pull - set up as intake.

I'm now thinking if I need to reseat.


----------



## Pinoytrek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


picture time!

Okay so I wasn't getting super improved temps with my modded h50 but I realized that I had mounted my reservoir so that it was touching one my graphics cards heat pipes. This obviously heated up the water. I moved it and my temps dropped a solid 7c. Now I am idling in the mid 30's (whereas as before it was low 40's and my Noctua was idling in the mid 40's) and it loads now at around ~67c and this is with a core i7 920 at 4.2ghz! I am really happy. I also added the cover for the h50... instead of removing the tubing to do it I just dremeled the plastic on the sides so I could slide it on. i am very happy with this setup now. It's cooling a good 8c better then the stock config. The res allows the water to cool even further so i think that's the biggest difference.

now for some pics





































here are the parts involved for this project and how much I paid for them

corsair h50 $60 (zipzoomfly)
1/4inch tubing $3 (home depot)
swiftech microres $23 (microcenter)
2 x 1/4inch danger den barbs $6 (microcenter)

total cost $92

Overall... not super cheap but I think for the final temps and looks I think it was well worth it.


Great work on the mod! I see you have your i7 on 4.2 as well. Can I ask what's your load when stress testing at 4.2ghz (prime95) before your mod. Wanted to compare mine as I have 77 to 79c. Thanks.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


ICD7 >> Shin Etsu
Shin Etsu >> MX3 or AC5
Thats basically how it goes. Stock paste is good, but ICD7 is certainly awesome.


I just picked up some Gelid GC Extreme TIM. I heard it was one of the top rated TIM's on the market. Anyone else using this stuff?


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pinoytrek*


I'm impress with the 6c delta over idle. Did you change the stock thermal paste of H50, if so what are you using? I must say, mine jumps from 44c to 79c when primed. Use gentle typhoon 1850 to push and AC ryan to pull - set up as intake.

I'm now thinking if I need to reseat.


Oh, I use that stuff from AC. I can't think of the name of it. With the R4, I can feel it blowing easily from a solid 18" away from the fan after it's pulled the air through the rad. The key to the R4's is to use a shroud. But like I have said before the AMD 550's, even oc'd, don't generate a ton of heat. It is only a 95watt processor to start with. So take it for what it is. But Gentle typhoons are not going to cut it as a rad fan.


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


picture time!

Okay so I wasn't getting super improved temps with my modded h50 but I realized that I had mounted my reservoir so that it was touching one my graphics cards heat pipes. This obviously heated up the water. I moved it and my temps dropped a solid 7c. Now I am idling in the mid 30's (whereas as before it was low 40's and my Noctua was idling in the mid 40's) and it loads now at around ~67c and this is with a core i7 920 at 4.2ghz! I am really happy. I also added the cover for the h50... instead of removing the tubing to do it I just dremeled the plastic on the sides so I could slide it on. i am very happy with this setup now. It's cooling a good 8c better then the stock config. The res allows the water to cool even further so i think that's the biggest difference.


I thought some one did a res mod like yours and killed the pump? I wonder if that should be a concern if using a res. Oh, I wonder if they were using a double rad and that's what killed it. Damn, can't remember.


----------



## DraganUS

sexybastard, what tubing size is that?
My microcenter dont have mcres.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


This is what made me decide on the Gentle Typhoons, great performance at low noise levels. And even then they are much quieter with a shroud between them and the rad.










The entire article is here.


What do you think would be a better choice to go with, upgrading from stock Corsair H50 fan and stock Case fan (currently setup in push/pull - exhaust)?

Swapping stock fans out for:

(2) 25mm Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm's
OR
(1) 35mm San Ace + 25mm Shroud


----------



## dkev

A warning to you guys if your considering a res. After reading sexy's post and thinking about it for a while, there could be an issue. If you add a res you will be increasing the head pressure on the pump. How much depends on the size of the res. Head pressure is basically the amount of force needed to circulate the water around the loop. The more area you use the more water...this increases the amount of force needed. I'm pretty sure these pumps don't have a lot of head room as to how much additional head pressure they can handle. So if you decide to go this route, keep the res small and keep a close eye on it. I deal with water pumps on a much larger scale so I know it doesn't take a lot to burn them up if not configed properly.


----------



## DraganUS

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
A warning to you guys if your considering a res. After reading sexy's post and thinking about it for a while, there could be an issue. If you add a res you will be increasing the head pressure on the pump. How much depends on the size of the res. Head pressure is basically the amount of force needed to circulate the water around the loop. The more area you use the more water...this increases the amount of force needed. I'm pretty sure these pumps don't have a lot of head room as to how much additional head pressure they can handle. So if you decide to go this route, keep the res small and keep a close eye on it. I deal with water pumps on a much larger scale so I know it doesn't take a lot to burn them up if not configed properly.

Yea, I was thinking the same thing. But, adding mcres to the H50 shouldnt produce that much pressure so that pump would crap out. As long as u dont use some long,small tubing to restrict water flow u should be good. Right?


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Im considering doing the tubing mod, just the only thing Im stuck on is where I would mount the res. I cant find a logical place to put it. Any ideas? Is there anything to keep in mind, as far as res being lower or higher than the pump, tube length?
Heres what Im dealing with in my case.
Any suggestions?


----------



## DraganUS

This is where I would put res if I had ur case.
U would have to put that rad a bit closer inside or if u flip the rad and put res under it.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

How would I mount the res there if there is rubber grommets?
But now thta would be blowing warmer air onto and in the direction of the gpu card's fan.

Moving the res lower will allow shorter tubes and then relating to the post above about head pressure?


----------



## DraganUS

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
How would I mount the res there if there is rubber grommets?

Drill the two holes.


----------



## dkev

The further below the res is to the pump, the more head pressure it also creates. You have to remember. This is a really small pump were talking about. I dunno. I don't think it's something I would try with the H50.


----------



## DraganUS

In my case rad is close to pump and adding res shouldnt create that much pressure.

What do u think dkev?

Here is a pic.


----------



## dkev

Now something you could do, is to add a small secondary pump. You can run pumps in series all day long as long as you match there flow rate as much as possible. I would add it just before the res. Then you have all the power you need to drive the water around the loop. A small aquarium pump would be more then enough.


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pinoytrek* 
Great work on the mod! I see you have your i7 on 4.2 as well. Can I ask what's your load when stress testing at 4.2ghz (prime95) before your mod. Wanted to compare mine as I have 77 to 79c. Thanks.

thanks

I was getting almost the same temps as you are in the stock config. around 78c on prime95 small fft load.

also please don't quote all those pics... make people scroll more then necessary









Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
I thought some one did a res mod like yours and killed the pump? I wonder if that should be a concern if using a res. Oh, I wonder if they were using a double rad and that's what killed it. Damn, can't remember.

that was me lol. the pump stopped pumping water though the double rad... maybe too much restriction or too much air got caught in the pump but it came back to life so that was nice to find out.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DraganUS* 
sexybastard, what tubing size is that?
My microcenter dont have mcres.









its 1/4inch tubing that i picked up from home depot.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I guess Ill wait a few weeks before I decide to do this, and see how the other guy's pumps are. I guess I could always move the res and fans to the back and have them as an intake. In the 902 it comes with a res plate to mount in one of the bay drive slots. So maybe if I move the rad down a slot and mount the res tray above it where the rad is now, maybe that would work.


----------



## Tribalwolf

Howdy All,

Just finished a primary build and had a few questions for those of you who have used the H50 or may even have a similar setup as myself.

System Specs:

Case = Lian Li v351 (Silver)
Ram = 4 Gig / Dual Channel OCX Gold
GPU = BFG 9600 GT OC
CPU = Amd athlon 64 x2 - 6000+ / 3.01 ghz

Ran some stress tests yesterday and hit some scary temps of 70+ Celcius. The case has and will always have cooling issues , but its a beauty and I love every bit of it. Main goal here isn't record temps but hopefully load around 55c , this pc doesnt have any plans for OC'ng as it runs most of what I play On High and / or above.

The plan is to WC it however with this case , There is a space issue as well as configuration issue.

I do realize that most users configure in a exhaust format however the only way to do that in this case is a complete air flow redesign. It has 2 x 120mm in front as intake and one 80mm plus PSU as exhaust. The main issue with the air flow here isnt intake, it's exhaust and unfortunetly the only viable place to put an H50 is upfront on one of the intake fans.

Any one experienced with this or know this case have any ideas?

Points to consider:

Exhausting out front will flood system with hot air as well, vent area is minimal.

Single 80mm cannot handle intake alone.

What I have been considering is swapping out the 2 120's up front for some higher airflow fans and popping the H50 onto one of them. whether it will be push pull I am not sure yet as I am sttill deciding that factor.

With the increased airflow what heat is put into the system will be blown thrown the many vents on the sides and back of the case. As long as the pressure is good enough , exhaust should be fine.

Iv'e had full WC plans for this case for awhile but cant find any adive on a 240 ( 2 x 120 ) Rad that would fit, any ideas?

Thank ya bunches and I'll keep updated with picks once the WC is complete.


----------



## BIGWORM

Got another question regarding this cooler: Does it still come with Shin-Etsu stock? Should I just use the stock, or use what bit of ICD7 I have left? If I use the ICD7, should I apply the pea-sized amount of TIM, as usual, or a bit more?


----------



## Sabre66

Hey you can add me.This is the best cooler iv ever owned max load dosent go above 43c


----------



## Vargess

So I am curious now, because I show "2" CPU readings on HWMonitor. One says it's the E8400, the other is under this Winbond thing.. I have no idea what that is, but there is a signifigant difference in temp readout.

Note: I was gaming last night/this morning and was monitoring my temps @ idle and while gaming. Idle states 42c, but no lower. While gaming (max settings 1900x1200) cpu temps reached a max of 45c.
My bios reports the cpu temp is like 25c.

Do I have a stuck sensor on my cpu? How do I determine this?


----------



## Tandrial

Okay just need a little help here to push it to 4.0Ghz
Currently I have a 955 @ 3.8 Ghz with a multiplyer at 19 and temps at 38 CÂ° with 20 CÂ° ambient. If I try to push 4.0 Ghz it crashed after 20-30 min of prime95. Does an increase in CPU Voltage fix this (from 1.375 to 1.4) ? Or is there something else I should try first?


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sexybastard* 
picture time!

Okay so I wasn't getting super improved temps with my modded h50 but I realized that I had mounted my reservoir so that it was touching one my graphics cards heat pipes. This obviously heated up the water. I moved it and my temps dropped a solid 7c. Now I am idling in the mid 30's (whereas as before it was low 40's and my Noctua was idling in the mid 40's) and it loads now at around ~67c and this is with a core i7 920 at 4.2ghz! I am really happy. I also added the cover for the h50... instead of removing the tubing to do it I just dremeled the plastic on the sides so I could slide it on. i am very happy with this setup now. It's cooling a good 8c better then the stock config. The res allows the water to cool even further so i think that's the biggest difference.

now for some pics










here are the parts involved for this project and how much I paid for them

corsair h50 $60 (zipzoomfly)
1/4inch tubing $3 (home depot)
swiftech microres $23 (microcenter)
2 x 1/4inch danger den barbs $6 (microcenter)

total cost $92

Overall... not super cheap but I think for the final temps and looks I think it was well worth it.

SB, awesome! I am glad you come back to H50. and your rig is soo hottie! Please take my suggest words, you should add *wheel* on your rig. it will looks more [email protected]$$$$$! trust me..


----------



## DraganUS

Its one of ur refrence voltages. Usually when u overclock and if u get BSOD than ur vcore is low. If u crash in prime after some time its sigh that ur refrence voltages are bit low.

on the mod

Ok, so here is some preliminary pictures how I am gonna place mcres and attach the tubes. I have also marked the flow of water with white arrows.
Also u can see the ghetto NB cooling.









What do u guys think.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Sorry, may be a silly question. But where do you put the O-rings?
Also if it calls 6mm ID and 8mm OD, how can you use 8mm ID if youre supposed to use 6mm? Wouldnt there be some gap then? Also, how do you make sure all the original liquid gets out? wouldnt a mixture affect something?
Did you use distilled water? Or what? Any additive other than the dye? I remember reading that something will corrode the metal or something..

How often would you have to refill or add more water to the res?


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Sorry, may be a silly question. But where do you put the O-rings?
Also if it calls 6mm ID and 8mm OD, how can you use 8mm ID if youre supposed to use 6mm? Wouldnt there be some gap then? Also, how do you make sure all the original liquid gets out? wouldnt a mixture affect something?
Did you use distilled water? Or what? Any additive other than the dye? I remember reading that something will corrode the metal or something..

How often would you have to refill or add more water to the res?

Oh my.... Didnt you read another thread? I suggest you to learn about wc stuffs, etc before leap into Mod Loop. OP and posters already answered your questions:

*[Mod] Corsair H50 with 240mm Radiator*..
*(Guide) Fitting Clear tubes to a H50*..


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Sorry, figured this thread is more visited than the other one, and I couldnt delete the other post.


----------



## kz26

Can the OP correct the 'offical" typo in the thread subject?









Add me in, picked up and installed an H50 today in my sig rig! Set up a push-pull configuration with my existing 120mm fan. Now running at 3GHz/1.4V and Prime95ing for stability. So far so good


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


SB, awesome! I am glad you come back to H50. and your rig is soo hottie! Please take my suggest words, you should add *wheel* on your rig. it will looks more [email protected]$$$$$! trust me..


thanks man appreciate it

i have actually considered those wheels and they would look nice but right now I like having my case short as hell









Quote:



Originally Posted by *DraganUS*


Ok, so here is some preliminary pictures how I am gonna place mcres and attach the tubes. I have also marked the flow of water with white arrows.
Also u can see the ghetto NB cooling.









What do u guys think.


that looks good but I would maybe try to put the res a little bit higher so it would be easier for bubbles to stay in the res... Ive read it should be one of the highest points in the loop. but i am also quite new to all of this so get other peoples opinions as well.


----------



## DraganUS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


that looks good but I would maybe try to put the res a little bit higher so it would be easier for bubbles to stay in the res... Ive read it should be one of the highest points in the loop. but i am also quite new to all of this so get other peoples opinions as well.



Yea, I was looking at that. I actually have made a custom holder for res that can go all the up to the card, but res wont go that high. I will start first 10mm higher from the pump and c if there is air bubbles forming and flowing thru tubing.


----------



## simmeh

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BIGWORM*


Got a question for you H50 owners, as I'd like to be one myself in the near future:

Will this cooler fit as a push-pull setup in an Antec P180 case, with a GB P45-UD3R board? I'm thinking adding the 2nd 120 for a push-pull will be cutting it too close to the cooler's copper base. I've been searching for someone else who's asked the question in google, but nothing. Can anyone help?


hi i dont know if u got an answer yet, but i did fit this no problem into my p183, dunno how much is different from the p180 tho

ill post a pic tomorrow


----------



## xquisit

The TIM on my CPU was spread with a business card, and the extra was applied to the H50.

1) I heard the TIM is not suppose to be spread, but spread with pressure from applying the H50
2) If #1 is true, then I must re-apply TIM
3) How do I properly remove my current TIM
4) What TIM do you recommend?
5) Any tricks/advice you can give me?
6) Thanks


----------



## corsmem

is there any guide or tips from you guys on how to lap the H50 perfectly

how to start and not to make additional scratches


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *corsmem* 
is there any guide or tips from you guys on how to lap the H50 perfectly

how to start and not to make additional scratches

Just follow a CPU lapping guide. There is a YouTube video somewhere that shows you exactly.


----------



## Sozin

What thermal paste do you all think I should buy to replace Corsair's?


----------



## ardentx

Hey guys,

I just swapped out my 975 for my 920 to see the difference in temps. My 975 @ 1.28v and 4.0GHz used to run with a max of 65c and a idle of about 36. I have just put my 920 in at stock and it reaches the high 80s on load and mid 40s at idle? I have changed my H50 to exhaust however? also what is the proper way to connect fans so they run 100% all the time? just straight into molex? does daisy chaining them on Molex ruin it? advice would be good guys


----------



## SpykeZ

Yes run them straight to a moxel for moar powa.

It reaching high 80's on the other hand is uber fail. Something must have mounted wrong or the thermal could be too thick or too thing.


----------



## tke395

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sozin*


What thermal paste do you all think I should buy to replace Corsair's?


Artic Silver 5 !!!!! My temps are GREAT !!! right now Im as im typing this I have 16*c - 20*c Im usually running at 15*c - 18*c but my rad is a little dirty. And the best way to apply it I have found is to start with a small dot in the middle of the cpu and smear it out with a plastic card ( used giftcard will work ) then do this again and again till you have the whole cpu covered. You can order from Newegg or you local Radioshack carries it.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sozin*


What thermal paste do you all think I should buy to replace Corsair's?


Corsair's thermal paste is Shin Etsu which is already an excellent thermal paste. If you were to replace it I would suggest ICD7, but I wouldn't bother.

Contrary to the person who posted above me - Shin Etsu is better than AC5, and also better than MX3.


----------



## tke395

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Contrary to the person who posted above me - Shin Etsu is better than AC5, and also better than MX3.


Contrary to ....???? The Guy was asking for personal opinions .... I use Artic Silver5 and have great results If you use ICD7 thats good too I may try that one day but no reason to make such a statement.


----------



## Killhouse

Yeah I'm sure you do get results with AC5, it's a good thermal paste. But I wouldnt replace the stock thermal tape (which is Shin Etsu) with AC5, since Shin Etsu ranks higher than AC5.


----------



## tke395

From what I read Indigo Xtreme has been tested and recieved the highest marks!

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=232141

http://indigo-xtreme.com/


----------



## Jura55ic

I personally use AS5


----------



## Killhouse

To be honest the difference between all of these is minimal, I'm using MX3 because after a couple of uses I didnt feel that it was safe to use the Shin Etsu any more. But if I hadnt of had that tube of MX3 lying around I would have bought some IC Diamond 7. Of course, Indigo Extreme is the absolute king of thermal paste - but I cant justify spending $10 per application


----------



## tke395

Im just got done reading there application process for the Indigo extreme ... dang talk about going though hell just to apply thermal paste......lol

Take a look!

http://indigo-xtreme.com/docs/Indigo...llation775.pdf

I think I might give it a go when I build my second PC after tax time man I cant wait to go i7!


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ardentx* 
Hey guys,

I just swapped out my 975 for my 920 to see the difference in temps. My 975 @ 1.28v and 4.0GHz used to run with a max of 65c and a idle of about 36. I have just put my 920 in at stock and it reaches the high 80s on load and mid 40s at idle? I have changed my H50 to exhaust however? also what is the proper way to connect fans so they run 100% all the time? just straight into molex? does daisy chaining them on Molex ruin it? advice would be good guys

*Cough* i7 *cough*

I dont under stand why those things run so hot, i dont go other 35's load.

Back to the point, try reseating with new thermal paste.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Corsair's thermal paste is Shin Etsu which is already an excellent thermal paste. If you were to replace it I would suggest ICD7, but I wouldn't bother.

Contrary to the person who posted above me - Shin Etsu is better than AC5, and also better than MX3.

Just wondering but how did you find out corsair uses Shin Etsu? Im sure it is Shin Etsu but im just abit curius, mainly bacause normally stock paste is rather poor.


----------



## Killhouse

Google or Corsair forums, I cant remember







My reasoning is that they wanted to make the H50 perform well out of the box to give it every advantage in initial reviews - since it is such a revolutionary concept to launch the public.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Google or Corsair forums, I cant remember







My reasoning is that they wanted to make the H50 perform well out of the box to give it every advantage in initial reviews - since it is such a revolutionary concept to launch the public.

Yeah thats what i was thinking, its good for people who done remount weekly, unlike me.


----------



## Vargess

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Vargess* 
So I am curious now, because I show "2" CPU readings on HWMonitor. One says it's the E8400, the other is under this Winbond thing.. I have no idea what that is, but there is a signifigant difference in temp readout.

Note: I was gaming last night/this morning and was monitoring my temps @ idle and while gaming. Idle states 42c, but no lower. While gaming (max settings 1900x1200) cpu temps reached a max of 45c.
My bios reports the cpu temp is like 25c.

Do I have a stuck sensor on my cpu? How do I determine this?


Thanks for the help


----------



## Garanthor

Hi guys. Just thought I'd post my set-up and temps. I have an H50 in push-pull with 2 X S-Flex at 1600 rpm in a HAF 922 with 3 X 200mm fans (two in one out) and 1 X 120 mm (1200 rpm fan) in. On my AMD 965 BE C3 at 20 celcius room temp I get 31 C Idle and after 3 hours of prime 95 max temp is approx 47 C. MB is a gigabyte UDP 5.


----------



## FerociousWill

My phenom IIx4 955 BE idle temp is 40 C.Is this normal?


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FerociousWill* 
My phenom IIx4 955 BE idle temp is 40 C.Is this normal?

my 965BE idles 34 and lower with the H50 using 2 fans for exhaust. I would say it's fine, it's the load temp you need to worry about the most


----------



## FerociousWill

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
my 965BE idles 34 and lower with the H50 using 2 fans for exhaust. I would say it's fine, it's the load temp you need to worry about the most









Oh,ok.Thanks.


----------



## Garanthor

Sorry, I should have also added that my H50 is set-up in exhaust mode (I've never tried it as an intake) and my 965 is running 3.8 Ghz with 3.75 V. The NB is at 2400 Mhz with 1.14 V. I've run Prime 95 up to 6 hrs without any problems so this is my 24/7 overclock. The H50 keeps it nice and cool at a max of 48 C with almost no noise (I used MX 2 in place or original TIM). I'm extremely happy with it.


----------



## de Cossatot

Lemme in da club! Just bought one last week and been trying to tweak it a bit. Got some new fans that I am gonna mount on it in a push pull. Some Ultra kaze. Gonne hook em up to a fan controller though so I can still hear. Anyways, tried to swift through the ton of pages and couldnt find if someone else used 38mm fans on it but if you did do you know the type of screws you would need? Or what did you use to hookem up?

Heres the pic. I know its not the best one but It was WAY to large when I first took it and had to slim it down a bunch. Anyone know some good software for doing this? Also, how do I get the nifty tag for Corsair on my sig?


----------



## Garanthor

de Cossatot,

After much reserach, I would strongly recommend the S-flex SFF 21F (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185006) over the Ultra Kaze 38mm. Static pressure at 1600 rpm is slightly under the Ultra Kaze 2000 rpm but the S-Flex has almost no noise. When the Ultra is dialed down to a comparable noise level the S-Flex beats it. See the review here: http://www.****************/reviews/...e_120mm_fans/5


----------



## de Cossatot

Garanthor,

DOH, those were the first ones I picked out but I ordered the Ultra kaze already. I'll put em in when they get here but if they are way to loud I'll switch em up the the S-flex. Thanks for the info bud.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sozin* 
What thermal paste do you all think I should buy to replace Corsair's?

I would recommend Gelid GC-Extreme. It blows away most everything out there that I've seen. It has a very thin viscosity and 0 cure time. Here's a review of the product. The test results against AS-5 and Noctua NT-H1 are around 2:50 mark. And here's another review with it in the 80-way TIM Performance shootout.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
I would recommend Gelid GC-Extreme. It blows away most everything out there that I've seen. It has a very thin viscosity and 0 cure time. Here's a review of the product. The test results against AS-5 and Noctua NT-H1 are around 2:50 mark. And here's another review with it in the 80-way TIM Performance shootout.

Beaten buy Arctic Silver 5 (which is years old) in the 80-way TIM Performance shootout. Looks to me like rebranded AC MX-2 or MX-3, like Prolimatech do with there Thermal paste.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Beaten buy Arctic Silver 5 (which is years old)

Are you kidding me? People are reporting real world temp drops up to 5-7c lower with GC Extreme over AS-5! Perhaps you're thinking of the older paste?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
Are you kidding me? People are reporting real world temp drops up to 5-7c lower with GC Extreme over AS-5! Perhaps you're thinking of the older paste?

Did you not look at your own link?










Lower = Better.

You will get exactly the same temps with MX3, that im using now, because thats what it is.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *de Cossatot* 
Lemme in da club! Just bought one last week and been trying to tweak it a bit. Got some new fans that I am gonna mount on it in a push pull. Some Ultra kaze. Gonne hook em up to a fan controller though so I can still hear. Anyways, tried to swift through the ton of pages and couldnt find if someone else used 38mm fans on it but if you did do you know the type of screws you would need? Or what did you use to hookem up?

Heres the pic. I know its not the best one but It was WAY to large when I first took it and had to slim it down a bunch. Anyone know some good software for doing this? Also, how do I get the nifty tag for Corsair on my sig?

Well you've found the fans already. The screw thread is classified as "6-32", these will screw directly into the radiator. Pick the length accordingly.

You get the "nifty" tag in your sig by copy and pasting the the text in the code box underneath where the sig is quoted on the first post.

I have a 38C fever at the moment and the thought of finding where all your names would go alphabetically on the list is too much right now







_I will update it tomorrow._

EDIT: it's my understanding that GC extreme isnt such a good thermal paste because it isnt silver-based. I cant quite remember the material science behind this but I think Silver-based compounds will cure over time and produce lower temperatures.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Did you not look at your own link?










Lower = Better.

You will get exactly the same temps with MX3, that im using now, because thats what it is.

I'm not sure I follow your point? I switched from AS-5 to GC-Extreme and got a 3c drop. Although the one review shows them identical, you shouldn't base everything on a single review, rather, compare several reviews with different environments, gear, etc. (There's plenty of reviews and feedback on the web - just search) As I mentioned, my personal experience is a 3c drop and others I know had as much as 5c.

PS: If you hadn't looked at the other review I posted, it shows (they aren't even close):

Arctic Silver 5
46c (idle) / 59c (load)

GC-Extreme
40c (idle) / 52c (load)

Anyways, I'm just pointing out my personal experience with both and my results. I appreciate your feedback though.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
I'm not sure I follow your point? I switched from AS-5 to GC-Extreme and got a 3c drop. Although the one review shows them identical, you shouldn't base everything on a single review, rather, compare several reviews with different environments, gear, etc. (There's plenty of reviews and feedback on the web - just search) As I mentioned, my personal experience is a 3c drop and others I know had as much as 5c.

PS: If you hadn't looked at the other review I posted, it shows (they aren't even close):

Arctic Silver 5
46c (idle) / 59c (load)

GC-Extreme
40c (idle) / 52c (load)

Anyways, I'm just pointing out my personal experience with both and my results. I appreciate your feedback though.









The stuffs just Arctic Cooling MX 3, with a different sticker.

Tuniq TX-3,
Noctua NT-H1,
ProlimaTech PK-1,
Zaward HSC-W,
Thermolab Thermal Grease,
Its all bassically the same. Theres lots of others too.


----------



## PC Gamer

I finally took a picture of my H50. I'm using a push/pull eshaust with 2 Corsair fans.


----------



## SpykeZ

Got some pictures of mine now too









The fit...woooo was it a close on. The distance between the fan and the floor of the divider is well, as thick as the cable that I put in there.

2 Noctua P12's, idles as low as 28C and when running blend on prime95 for about 20 minutes doesn't go over 48C


----------



## DraganUS

So, here is what I did today.
I wanted to make my tubing as short as possible to eliminate a pump pressure. Done some tube modding on H50, all I am missing are those things around tubing and I am done.









Here are some pics. Sorry from crappy camera.

What do u guys think?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DraganUS* 
So, here is what I did today.
I wanted to make my tubing as short as possible to eliminate a pump pressure. Done some tube modding on H50, all I am missing are those things around tubing and I am done.









Here are some pics. Sorry from crappy camera.

What do u guys thing.

Very slick! Nice looking setup you got there.


----------



## ShortySmalls

whoa thats sweet


----------



## ccomputertek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls* 
whoa thats sweet

Know what would be even sweeter ? if you would remove the image tags and not quote the pics ..... Ja Ja Ja


----------



## AcesHigh007

I'm in









Here's my H50 (noctua NFP-12 push/pull exhaust) in my Helios 910R case.


----------



## sinflare

Just got mine at Fry's for 50 bucks!

Using it on my 7750, oc'd to 3.45ghz. Temps are at about 35c idle, 43c at full load. I'm impressed!


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
The TIM on my CPU was spread with a business card, and the extra was applied to the H50.

1) I heard the TIM is not suppose to be spread, but spread with pressure from applying the H50
2) If #1 is true, then I must re-apply TIM
3) How do I properly remove my current TIM
4) What TIM do you recommend?
5) Any tricks/advice you can give me?
6) Thanks


I know I'm asking of noob help, but please help









I'm still trying to figure out the deal, because I really believe my cpu is running a tad higher than usual.

(I'm sure some BIOS settings could be changed, but so could my TIM)


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DraganUS* 
So, here is what I did today.
I wanted to make my tubing as short as possible to eliminate a pump pressure. Done some tube modding on H50, all I am missing are those things around tubing and I am done.









Here are some pics. Sorry from crappy camera.

What do u guys think?


If you wrote a guide on this, I would actually attempt to do the same.

+rep


----------



## SpykeZ

spreading with a card is fine and it's the way a lot of people do it. I personally use a razor blade on mine.

The stuff that came on the H50 tho I just left it the way it was and hooked it all up.


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xquisit*


If you wrote a guide on this, I would actually attempt to do the same.

+rep


please don't quote all those pictures man... so much extra scrolling required









there is a guide on this if you had browsed the WC sub forum

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...s-res-mod.html


----------



## forthewinwinx2

Just got mine today







Add me up

Wish the pipes looked cooler though


----------



## borito4

These were on sale at my local frys again for 50.00, if anyone wants one hit me up


----------



## xquisit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


please don't quote all those pictures man... so much extra scrolling required









there is a guide on this if you had browsed the WC sub forum

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...s-res-mod.html



My bad, I'll go remove 'em champ!


----------



## Chrono Detector

I recently got this Corsair H50 installed on my main rig:


----------



## ccomputertek

The way that I apply thermal compound is I wear a none-powdered latex rubber glove and put a pea size amount on my thumb and squish it and mix it with my index finger and then I pat / dab the CPU surface with index finger and repeat this process until I am happy with the amount on the CPU, Works like a charm.I've been applying thermal compound perfectly this way since and especially with CPU's that have just the core exposed and no heatspeader like the Athlon XP's.You can have either what looks like a slight FOG of thermal compound on your CPU, or up to a paper thin layer done perfectly every time.

Almost the same as sticking your finger in a sandwich baggie to spread on the CPU, only this works 10 times better with the latex glove method.Also very accurate this way and no mess at all.


----------



## slugzkea

This thread is hella long, so I'll keep it short and sweet.

I love this cooler, but the manual is almost useless. I nearly screwed up the CPU bracket because of the manual.

The one thing i couldn't understand is, how the hell are you suppose to screw the water block onto the CPU bracket? that just doesn't seem logical, smeering the thermal paste and all.

And the pre-applied paste, man that's way too much paste!

Here are my 2 cents:

- Mount the water block to the CPU bracket FIRST then screw the bracket in..like how you would with any other logical heat sink, one screw after another until all 4 corners are even. No smeering paste, no uneven temps between cores.

- Remove the pre-applied paste or "pad"...it's just too much paste!

- PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO THE CPU BRACKET MOUNTING! there's nothing in the manual that states you have to clip the bracket in PLACE (pushing it up) and make sure you know which raisers to use!

Conclusion: e8400 1.53 volts 4ghz load temps 55-58c. Very happy.


----------



## Edwardjr

Contributing.


----------



## Garanthor

DraganUS,

How the heck are you going to bleed your system of air bubbles if your resevoir is now lower that your rad? I would think air is going to accumulate on the top of your rad.

AcesHigh007,

Nice case. I notice you have back space for routing cables. Is that a future project for you? It would both improve your airflow and the appearance of your case.


----------



## marsey99

quick question here guys, what are the tubes on this cooler made from?


----------



## Killhouse

A double-walled steel-reinforced plastic composite.

Do you ever get that feeling you've wasted your life learning useless information?


----------



## marsey99

wasnt useless tho, you needed that now


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
A double-walled steel-reinforced plastic composite.

Do you ever get that feeling you've wasted your life learning useless information?









But knowledge is power, and if you can muster a group of technical information to a less knowledgable person, you'll win.

I went to wal*mart and bought guild wars a few weeks after it came out. Got home and the jewel case wasn't wrapped. Didn't think about it till I got the cd key out and the silver dust stuff was all scratched off. Some jerk stole the key and returned the game.

So I took it back to wal*mart and told them someone had already bought the game just to get the key and returned it. They gave me a really weird look at this point like I was lying which aggrivated me so I got into this huge technilogical explanation about DRM and the use of cd keys and how they work with online servers and yadda yadda, this soccer mom just stared at me clueless and was like ya um heres your money back.

Knowledge wins lol


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
quick question here guys, what are the tubes on this cooler made from?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
A double-walled steel-reinforced plastic composite.

Do you ever get that feeling you've wasted your life learning useless information?









There was no steel in mine. The tubes are just fairly thick plastic.

I'd take a photo of the inside but a friend has the camera.


----------



## corsmem

is it possible to buy anywhere an additional original Corsair fan for push-pull?I want only corsair


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
There was no steel in mine. The tubes are just fairly thick plastic.

I'd take a photo of the inside but a friend has the camera.

The steel would be microscopic, a part of the plastic.


----------



## DraganUS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


DraganUS,

How the heck are you going to bleed your system of air bubbles if your resevoir is now lower that your rad? I would think air is going to accumulate on the top of your rad.


I saw so many people mounting the rad above the pump and they didnt have any problems, so I think that this pump is not affected by that. 
I have been running comp all night and there is not even single bubble in the res. Idk why but there isnt.

To bleed it I will just unscrew bottom port.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *corsmem*


is it possible to buy anywhere an additional original Corsair fan for push-pull?I want only corsair










I've set mine up with 2 X S-Flex at 1600 rpm. Great static pressure and quiter than the Corsair.


----------



## scrotes

add me pls http://co113w.col113.mail.live.com/a...65CB45929C80||


----------



## CaptnBB

Hi, you can add me to the list as well. I just Bought mine and installed it yesterday. This is also my first post. I have been gathering info from this site for a long time, I figured it's time to join. I will be modding my H50, I have some of the parts already.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CaptnBB*


Hi, you can add me to the list as well. I just Bought mine and installed it yesterday. This is also my first post. I have been gathering info from this site for a long time, I figured it's time to join. I will be modding my H50, I have some of the parts already.










What mods are you considering and why? Looks, preformance or both?


----------



## Sethy666

I currently have this setup

Pull fan<case<rad>25mm shroud<push fan (exhaust).

Now, Im thinking of making that 25mm shroud into a 50mm or 38mm shroud, based on CONTAGION's work.

If I go down this path, Im going to have to place the rad _outside_ the case, due to the fact Im going to prang my H50 pump with the push fan.

Shrouds notwithstanding, can I expect lower temps by virtue of having the rad _outside_ of the case?

Any and all comments welcome

Thanks


----------



## iSubaru

hey all 
sorry if this has been posted in here before but i was looking at getting one for my next build but just thought i'd ask firstly would one of these be good enough for an overclocked i7 860?

thanks


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iSubaru*


hey all 
sorry if this has been posted in here before but i was looking at getting one for my next build but just thought i'd ask firstly would one of these be good enough for an overclocked i7 860?

thanks


Overclocked by how much? Depending on how you set your H50 up (shrouds etc) you should be able to OC.


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iSubaru*


hey all 
sorry if this has been posted in here before but i was looking at getting one for my next build but just thought i'd ask firstly would one of these be good enough for an overclocked i7 860?

thanks


keeps an i7 920 @ 4200mhz in the mid 70c's during 100% prime95 load...


----------



## ErBall

The antec p180 mini was practically made for this solution.

edit: how in the hell do you imbed flickr photos.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ErBall* 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/4284359044/

Nice and .... stretchy









How are your temps?


----------



## ErBall

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Nice and .... stretchy









How are your temps?


decent, im not overclocked on this cooling solution yet.

I previously had a Xigmatek Dark Knight and was completely underwhelmed with it. This loads in the low 50's at stock, which is alright I suppose.


----------



## Killhouse

*Added people* to the front page, sorry it took so long.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *corsmem*


is it possible to buy anywhere an additional original Corsair fan for push-pull?I want only corsair










I had a look around and couldnt find out what it was, I'm sure it must be based on an OEM version of another fan. But I couldnt tell what it was. But the guy I quote below.....

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PC Gamer*


I finally took a picture of my H50. I'm using a push/pull eshaust with 2 Corsair fans.


... seems to be using "2 Corsair fans". Hmmm.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FerociousWill*


My phenom IIx4 955 BE idle temp is 40 C.Is this normal?


Your post was a long time ago but I'll answer anyway. That's not normal unless it's summer where you are. My 965 idles at about 3C above ambient, and loads to about 45C.







Maybe think about reseating it and double check your installation.


----------



## CaptnBB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


What mods are you considering and why? Looks, preformance or both?


Both. I'm considering a dual rad, Reservoir, and a radbox. Right now though I'm just getting the res and maybe the radbox. I like the idea of having a res. And having the radbox will allow me to place the rad outside my case. Hopefully for better cooling, and definitely for more space inside. The radbox will also allow me to very easily add the dual rad a bit later.

Which waterblock do you recommend, the MCRES-MICRO v2.0 or the EK Multioption 100 or 150 v2.0?


----------



## PC Gamer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


... seems to be using "2 Corsair fans". Hmmm.


I am using two. The corsair logo is just facing towards the exhaust so you can't see it.


----------



## ErBall

I would really like to host proper photos in this thread. How do you embed photos from flickr?


----------



## Killhouse

@PC Gamer - where did you get the 2nd Corsair fan? We're trying to determine what it is or where one could get another one to complete the pair.

@ErBall - cant you just use the


----------



## ErBall

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 

@ErBall - cant you just use the or [ATTACH] tags?
[/TD]
[/TR][/TABLE]
Yeah, im a tard:
[IMG alt=""]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2720/4284359044_52cef1bb69_b.jpg

The only thing I don't like about this solution is my x25g2 is hidden behind the h50 now.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

sorry guys, I have jumped ship. I am no longer an H50 user.

I got a full loop with a HK 3.0 lt, MCR320 rad and EK classified mobo block.









I enjoyed the H50 though. It is a good out-of-the-box heat sink.


----------



## Lemondrips

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slugzkea*


Conclusion: e8400 *1.53 volts* 4ghz load temps 55-58c. Very happy.










Just to let you know the max safe recommended is 1.4v and your way over that.


----------



## PC Gamer

@Killhouse-Since they aren't sold through retail stores I bought one off a member of Overclock.net.


----------



## Killhouse

Ah thanks, thats what I figured. That should be the answer to the person that was asking a while back.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


sorry guys, I have jumped ship. I am no longer an H50 user.

I got a full loop with a HK 3.0 lt, MCR320 rad and EK classified mobo block.









I enjoyed the H50 though. It is a good out-of-the-box heat sink.


Hey, its all good. Have fun with your new setup... send pics! We love eye candy


----------



## elo820

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


picture time!

Okay so I wasn't getting super improved temps with my modded h50 but I realized that I had mounted my reservoir so that it was touching one my graphics cards heat pipes. This obviously heated up the water. I moved it and my temps dropped a solid 7c. Now I am idling in the mid 30's (whereas as before it was low 40's and my Noctua was idling in the mid 40's) and it loads now at around ~67c and this is with a core i7 920 at 4.2ghz! I am really happy. I also added the cover for the h50... instead of removing the tubing to do it I just dremeled the plastic on the sides so I could slide it on. i am very happy with this setup now. It's cooling a good 8c better then the stock config. The res allows the water to cool even further so i think that's the biggest difference.

corsair h50 $60 (zipzoomfly)
1/4inch tubing $3 (home depot)
swiftech microres $23 (microcenter)
2 x 1/4inch danger den barbs $6 (microcenter)

total cost $92

Overall... not super cheap but I think for the final temps and looks I think it was well worth it.



You have to show me how to do it.. Lol It looks sick! I was wondering if this is considered protable because I go back and forth from college. No spills and stuff. I know the h50 is already portable with no leaks. So what do you think?

Thanks


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *elo820*


You have to show me how to do it.. Lol It looks sick! I was wondering if this is considered protable because I go back and forth from college. No spills and stuff. I know the h50 is already portable with no leaks. So what do you think?

Thanks


I wouldnt recommend it, just because of the fittings on the barbs. Probably not what you wanted to hear, but this very reason has stopped me from making the same mod myself - because I move from home to college a lot too and it would just be unfeasable. The risk of discovering a spillage and a leak at the end of the journey would just not be worth it.

Also if you could edit the pictures out of that quote that would be amazing







Lots of people dont like scrolling, althought it is an awesome mod!


----------



## DraganUS

Elo, it is pretty easy to do, just follow the guide and u should be abler to id easy. There is no leeks and its portable. I have tried flipping the rad and whatnot and there is no leaks.

Thereis only three people that did this mod.

Willhemmens,sexybastard and me.









Killhouse, u should made a list under H50 member list, but put H50 Modded List or something like that to include us who medded that stock h50. With some permalinks ofcourse.


----------



## Killhouse

I have done that too an extent under the "links" section. Mostly it refers to guides of the people that have done the mod first. It'd be quite hard to keep that list up to date, but it's something I will try to do soon - maybe once these exams are over


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


sorry guys, I have jumped ship. I am no longer an H50 user.

I got a full loop with a HK 3.0 lt, MCR320 rad and EK classified mobo block.









I enjoyed the H50 though. It is a good out-of-the-box heat sink.


Hey Kevin, I just browsed your work log on your new system. Holy crap!! That thing is sooo nice! Excellent work you've done. I can't wait to see it finally complete.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CaptnBB*


Both. I'm considering a dual rad, Reservoir, and a radbox. Right now though I'm just getting the res and maybe the radbox. I like the idea of having a res. And having the radbox will allow me to place the rad outside my case. Hopefully for better cooling, and definitely for more space inside. The radbox will also allow me to very easily add the dual rad a bit later.

Which waterblock do you recommend, the MCRES-MICRO v2.0 or the EK Multioption 100 or 150 v2.0?


If you have the room I'd go for the EK Multioption 100 or 150. Bigger is better if you're hoping to get some extra cooling out of your res. Better yet would be to get a dual rad. Only problem with a dual rad mod on the H50 is the pumps lower flow-through. Bottom line is that you'll evenutally reach a point where you're replacing the whole system anyway with a custom water cooling solution. Consequently I'm keeping my mods to a simple push/pull with the possible addition of a shroud between the push and the rad. I'm not sure that the res mod would make that much of a difference. On my system I idle at 31-32 and at load (3.8 ghz) reach 47. That's very good.


----------



## elo820

So I guess I shouldn't do it huh? I dont mind the cost its just looks sick espeicailly through the window of my a05b case. I mean if there is a better way to secure the tubes then maybe? When I read the instructions I still feel lost... =/


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Ah thanks, thats what I figured. That should be the answer to the person that was asking a while back.


Has anyone contacted Corsair directly? It's worth a shot. When I was modding my Xigmatek s1283, they let me swap the stock fan for that of the Dark Knight (almost 2x CFM) which was very nice, but my point being, that manufacturers do have extra parts that they can sell directly if you send them a nice request.

Edit: Oops... I meant to quote the other question, about getting extra Corsair fans, sorry!


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *elo820*


So I guess I shouldn't do it huh? I dont mind the cost its just looks sick espeicailly through the window of my a05b case. I mean if there is a better way to secure the tubes then maybe? When I read the instructions I still feel lost... =/


If you want to do a mod on the H50 for looks and cost is not a factor then go crazy. You will get some improvement in cooling, just be sure to manage your expectations. If you're doing it because you think you think it will have a major impact on your CPU then don't bother because you're mistaken. My CPU at load (3.8 ghz) runs happily at 47 C. A few degrees either way will not make any major difference. The next step up from the H50 IMHO is full water cooling.


----------



## elo820

haha true true. I really just like the look of it. It looks so nice


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Hey, its all good. Have fun with your new setup... send pics! We love eye candy









pics are in the worklog in my sig or in my most recent post in the OCN water cooling club (also in my sig).

Oh, btw, anyone with an H50 is free to join the Water cooling club. ;-)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
Hey Kevin, I just browsed your work log on your new system. Holy crap!! That thing is sooo nice! Excellent work you've done. I can't wait to see it finally complete.

Thanks! I will also be getting another loop for Graphics as well. It will be quite awesome when done.









sub to my worklog if you wanna see the end result.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


pics are in the worklog in my sig or 
sub to my worklog if you wanna see the end result.


Yep - ive check the work log and its sex on a stick! Nice work bro


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Yep - ive check the work log and its sex on a stick! Nice work bro










thanks man.


----------



## CaptnBB

My plan is to do this on a budget over time and still have fun with it now. My end result will be a custom water setup. I will then move the H50 components to another computer when they are phased out of my main rig.

Edit: I just ordered a EK Multioption Res 150 v2, some extra barbs and a Swiftech radblock.

This is where I am right now.


----------



## reberto

My H50 w/ 2x High Speed Yate Loons are currently keeping my i7 860 @ 4.0ghz well under 65c on all cores with HT on while gaming. Now if I run LinX...well the temps are a different story, they creep up near 80c (but really, my CPU is never going to get that hot while gaming. Ever.)


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reberto*


My H50 w/ 2x High Speed Yate Loons are currently keeping my i7 860 @ 4.0ghz well under 65c on all cores with HT on while gaming. Now if I run LinX...well the temps are a different story, they creep up near 80c (but really, my CPU is never going to get that hot while gaming. Ever.)


Can you ever 'prove' it is stable then? What is your VCore for 4.0ghz?

Mine also gets near 80 deg C (on very hot days), but for anything longer than 10 or so minutes, the system starts throttling, and lowers the multiplier. I suspect this is more related to some onboard thermometer, I can turn it off, but I am not sure I want to


----------



## yang88she

please add me


----------



## reberto

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


Can you ever 'prove' it is stable then? What is your VCore for 4.0ghz?

Mine also gets near 80 deg C (on very hot days), but for anything longer than 10 or so minutes, the system starts throttling, and lowers the multiplier. I suspect this is more related to some onboard thermometer, I can turn it off, but I am not sure I want to










I can prove it, I ran LinX for a good half hour before I choose to end it (and I'm 100% certain that I could have left it going, but the temps started to worry me a bit). Vcore is 1.334 according to CPU-Z

Plus if it doesn't crash in games or Windows then it's more than stable in my book


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reberto*


Vcore is 1.334 according to CPU-Z


That is a very nice VCore for 4.0ghz









Do you know the batch# for your CPU?


----------



## reberto

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


That is a very nice VCore for 4.0ghz









Do you know the batch# for your CPU?


Batch # L937B725

Ran it @ stock for all of an hour before I OC'd it. Didn't even bother trying to run it at lower speeds. 4.0ghz or bust IMO lol


----------



## Jura55ic

Decided Im gonna upgrade my fans (I currently have a pair of Corsairs 1600rpm doing push pull) to a pair of 2400rpm sharkoons. will see what temp difference.

With the corsairs im getting 39c with a 3.6ghz OC on my Q6600.

Will post results in 48hrs time


----------



## konkhra

I had one, just upgraded it to an Apogee XT, going to use it another build/case(Storm Scout, seems perfect for it).


----------



## STALKEROZA

i am h50 new ouner









this some my results
my old cooler zerotherm fz120 with nanoxia fan.system i5 750, 4ghz
intelburne test standart. room temp 22c








H50










intelburn test maximum
FZ 120








H50


----------



## Mark the Bold

Just bought the H50 on sale at Fry's. Just popped it in and am disappointed to say the least. With two S-Flex G 120mm fans on it, I am still 7-8C higher than my Mugen 2 with just one fan. I have reseated the heatsink twice to rule out TIM issues. Has anyone else has this result? I looked at Contagions thread regarding this heatsink and he mentioned he posted his Mugen 2 results there (cant find them anywhere in the thread). I am also noticing a 6C degree variation in core temps between cores with the H50.

What gives?


----------



## mr-Charles

. . . . MARK the BOLD . . . . . you have *tried* using/installing this by way of "Intake" and the "Exhaust" way to see *IF* there are *NO* difference's, correct??? [... one way better than the other for every case/application is Different, to be better OR worst . . .]

mr. Charles .









.


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mark the Bold* 
Just bought the H50 on sale at Fry's. Just popped it in and am disappointed to say the least. With two S-Flex G 120mm fans on it, I am still 7-8C higher than my Mugen 2 with just one fan. I have reseated the heatsink twice to rule out TIM issues. Has anyone else has this result? I looked at Contagions thread regarding this heatsink and he mentioned he posted his Mugen 2 results there (cant find them anywhere in the thread). I am also noticing a 6C degree variation in core temps between cores with the H50.

What gives?









How do you have the fans oriented? Bringing air in from the back or exhausting?
I don't know much about I7's but if it is oc'd, you may have exceeded the H50's ability to cool it. Seeing a lot of guys with your cpu running between 60 and 70c. To me that's unacceptable.


----------



## STALKEROZA

my pc I5 750,s it tems 4Ghz
Attachment 137857

Attachment 137858

my results with intelburne test standart end max.room temp 22c
my old zerotherm fz 120 end H50
fz 120standartAttachment 137860
H50 standartAttachment 137861
fz 120 max Attachment 137862
H 50 max Attachment 137863
is it temps good?
i whant to buy 2 best fans with leds!
someone can suggest me something
i ll hope temp will be better

sorry 4 my bad english!!!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mark the Bold* 
Just bought the H50 on sale at Fry's. Just popped it in and am disappointed to say the least. With two S-Flex G 120mm fans on it, I am still 7-8C higher than my Mugen 2 with just one fan. I have reseated the heatsink twice to rule out TIM issues. Has anyone else has this result? I looked at Contagions thread regarding this heatsink and he mentioned he posted his Mugen 2 results there (cant find them anywhere in the thread). *I am also noticing a 6C degree variation in core temps between cores with the H50.*

What gives?









Something isnt right, you should check that you've used the right screws - did any of them "wobble" when you tightened them up. Did you use the stock thermal paste over and over, or did you apply your own? Do you have your radiator set up as exhaust or intake? Intake is known to lead to high temps after a short time at load.


----------



## STALKEROZA

this is my H50 ,how corsair suggest, but i whantt trying other position,in my case.how many attempts i have with out change thermal paste on h50
sorry 4 my bad eng
Attachment 137864

Attachment 137865


----------



## Killhouse

I only use it once before replacing it, but you could probably get away with 2 or 3 times. You shouldnt have to reseat it just to move the radiator though.


----------



## STALKEROZA

fans do you use ?
do you saw my temper?


----------



## scrotes

finally got the image to work here is my h50


----------



## Mark the Bold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dkev*


How do you have the fans oriented? Bringing air in from the back or exhausting?
I don't know much about I7's but if it is oc'd, you may have exceeded the H50's ability to cool it. Seeing a lot of guys with your cpu running between 60 and 70c. To me that's unacceptable.


I reinstalled it twice and checked the TIM contact area and looked great both times. Pump was definitely on and moving water. To rule out the faulty install, I moved the fan/radiator/fan outside of the case completely so the ambient temp was not a factor. Same deal.

I know you said you dont know much about i7's, but what temps SHOULD I be getting with an H50 push-pull? S-Flex G's are decent fans.

None of the screws wobble and I used the correct ones.

I completely removed the stock TIM using cleaning / purifying compounds and then used OCZ Freeze for both installs.

I also put a razor against it; the base is quite flat.

Please note guys, I think Corsair products walk on water so I'm not trolling here. Anyone here a former Mugen 2 infidel, and now a H50 believer? What temp change did YOU see?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *STALKEROZA* 
fans do you use ?
do you saw my temper?

Nice set up///










Your temps seem a tad high though but I dont have that much experience with your CPU... (maybe its just me) My load temps on OCCT never got over 49c

1) Do you have Smart CPU fan diabled on your BIOS?
2) Do you have it as intake or exhaust.


----------



## aiya

Planning on picking one up at Fry's this week (if they still have any instock). Still on the fence on modding it or not.

Also, nice forum you guys have here


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *aiya* 
Planning on picking one up at Fry's this week (if they still have any instock). Still on the fence on modding it or not.

Also, nice forum you guys have here









Kewl, and welcome!

Yeah... we like it here too


----------



## Killhouse

@Mark the Bold: I'm really stuck with this little one







I'm sure the 6C difference you're seeing must have something to do with it. You sound like you know what you're doing with TIM and the general installation so we wont bother you with that. Quoting a chap from page 200...

Quote:

My H50 w/ 2x High Speed Yate Loons are currently keeping my i7 860 @ 4.0ghz well under 65c on all cores with HT on while gaming. Now if I run LinX...well the temps are a different story, they creep up near 80c (but really, my CPU is never going to get that hot while gaming. Ever.)
Hope that helps in any way.

@Aiya: Welcome to OCN, nice to see you even filled in your system specs







EDIT: sadly we get some aussies here, eh sethy


----------



## Iching

I have got two of these but not sure whether I should keep them.

Very important questions. I own an ASus P5Q Deluxe and P5Q Pro motherboards and my fan settings in the bios are set to quiet. Will the pump get enough power from the mobo?


----------



## reberto

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


@Mark the Bold: I'm really stuck with this little one







I'm sure the 6C difference you're seeing must have something to do with it. You sound like you know what you're doing with TIM and the general installation so we wont bother you with that. Quoting a chap from page 200...

Hope that helps in any way.

@Aiya: Welcome to OCN, nice to see you even filled in your system specs







EDIT: sadly we get some aussies here, eh sethy










Pssh, way to delete my name from the quote


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mark the Bold*


I reinstalled it twice and checked the TIM contact area and looked great both times. Pump was definitely on and moving water. To rule out the faulty install, I moved the fan/radiator/fan outside of the case completely so the ambient temp was not a factor. Same deal.

I know you said you dont know much about i7's, but what temps SHOULD I be getting with an H50 push-pull? S-Flex G's are decent fans.

None of the screws wobble and I used the correct ones.

I completely removed the stock TIM using cleaning / purifying compounds and then used OCZ Freeze for both installs.

I also put a razor against it; the base is quite flat.

Please note guys, I think Corsair products walk on water so I'm not trolling here. Anyone here a former Mugen 2 infidel, and now a H50 believer? What temp change did YOU see?


It really sounds to me like it might be an airflow issue. How is the airflow in your case? Was it set as an exhuast or intake? 2 x S Flex will move a lot of air either way. If your systemn is not balanced it will "jam" the airflow and cause temps to rise quite a bit.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Iching*


I have got two of these but not sure whether I should keep them.

Very important questions. I own an ASus P5Q Deluxe and P5Q Pro motherboards and my fan settings in the bios are set to quiet. Will the pump get enough power from the mobo?


Pretty sure it won't. Just hook it up to a 4 pin molex and forget about possible pump issues.


----------



## Garanthor

Ladies and gents, I'd like to pose an idea and see what your thoughts are. Given that most people don't want to increase their rad surface area or add a higher flow rate pump and res, the only other viable alternative I can see for improving the cooling of the H50 is to increase the airflow over the rad. Doing so with with a 38mm fan is just too noisey an option for me. So what if I were to add a 120mm to 140mm fan adapter at each end? theoretically a 140mm fan could pump in more air without increasing the noise. Moreover the compression to 120mm should further speed up the air (venturi effect) providing an even better cooling solution. Thoughts?


----------



## Iching

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Pretty sure it won't. Just hook it up to a 4 pin molex and forget about possible pump issues.


Ok, I get it. Then I am going to have a got a "splitter" or a 4pin into 4 pin molex cable in order to connect the pump to the 4 pin molex?. )-:


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Iching*


Ok, I get it. Then I am going to have a got a "splitter" or a 4pin into 4 pin molex cable in order to connect the pump to the 4 pin molex?. )-:


3 pin to molex (at least mine is), 4 pin will also work if that's what you have. You probably have one kicking around if you have bought a fan in the past.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanther*
So what if I were to add a 120mm to 140mm fan adapter at each end? theoretically a 140mm fan could pump in more air without increasing the noise. Moreover the compression to 120mm should further speed up the air (venturi effect) providing an even better cooling solution. Thoughts?

Hmmm... Im liking the way you think... explain more pls. Pics or links on the gear you would use so i can get my head around the concept









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
sadly we get some aussies here, eh sethy









Well, as I see it Killhouse, someone has to add some class to this thread...


----------



## Iching

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
3 pin to molex (at least mine is), 4 pin will also work if that's what you have. You probably have one kicking around if you have bought a fan in the past.

I am an idiot... I forgot the pump is only 3pin not 4 pin... I am at work right now, multitasking. Thanks for you help. Pics coming up this weekend.


----------



## Garanthor

Sethy666 said:


> Hmmm... Im liking the way you think... explain more pls. Pics or links on the gear you would use so i can get my head around the concept
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm think of an adapter like the one attached. You can see by the other pic how it would mount. For the Fan, I'm think the noise blocker 1,700 rpm would be great. It comes with a gasket and puts out 90 CFM at 1,781 mm H2O with very little noise.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


I'm think of an adapter like the one attached. You can see by the other pic how it would mount. For the Fan, I'm think the noise blocker 1,700 rpm would be great. It comes with a gasket and puts out 90 CFM at 1,781 mm H2O with very little noise.



















Im not much into the physics of fans and airflow but what you say rings true. Your second attachment doesn't expand, btw.

Im thinking you should start up a thread here, run some trials and post the results on your thread. Similar to CONTAGION's shroud thread. Nothing beats getting published









That way we dont lose your work and its there for future readers to see.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
I'm think of an adapter like the one attached. You can see by the other pic how it would mount. For the Fan, I'm think the noise blocker 1,700 rpm would be great. It comes with a gasket and puts out 90 CFM at 1,781 mm H2O with very little noise.









It sounded like an interesting idea, so I grabbed an adapter and a 140mm fan and did a little investigating. There is very little room on the pipe side of the rad for a bigger fan. If you space the fan out far enough, a little pipe bending might let it fit. Whether you will be able to use a 140mm fan (on either side) will be very dependent on your particular installation. For me, I would have to make major changes to accommodate them. On the other hand I ordered those Noiseblockers this past weekend and they are on their way (damn they're expensive!). Maybe I'll have a chance to play a little in a week or two.


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
Ladies and gents, I'd like to pose an idea and see what your thoughts are. Given that most people don't want to increase their rad surface area or add a higher flow rate pump and res, the only other viable alternative I can see for improving the cooling of the H50 is to increase the airflow over the rad. Doing so with with a 38mm fan is just too noisey an option for me. So what if I were to add a 120mm to 140mm fan adapter at each end? theoretically a 140mm fan could pump in more air without increasing the noise. Moreover the compression to 120mm should further speed up the air (venturi effect) providing an even better cooling solution. Thoughts?









This makes perfect sense, and yes, the venturi effect, like that used in carborateurs, should accelerate the air flowing in towards, or away from, the radiator, depending of course on whether you set it up as exhaust or intake. But either way, assuming the rigging will accommodate the fan adapter and your case has room for the fan itself, you can avail yourself of those higher cfms/mm H2O rates from the bigger fans. I'm definitely interested in seeing the results of some tests with this! Good idea.


----------



## Mark the Bold

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
It really sounds to me like it might be an airflow issue. How is the airflow in your case? Was it set as an exhuast or intake? 2 x S Flex will move a lot of air either way. If your systemn is not balanced it will "jam" the airflow and cause temps to rise quite a bit.









I thought that was it too, so I completely removed the radiator with the two fans attached and had it open air (neither intake or exhaust). I am certain if I went 38mm San Ace + Shroud + Rad + 38mm San Ace <- I would get much better temps. However, with my $26 delivered Mugen 2 doing so much better, its hard for me to justify the H50 + all the fixin's right now.

Anyway, I WANT the Corsair H50 to work because I find it makes my system look so much more badass.

Thanks for all the help. I am hoping somebody who had a Mugen 2 + H50 experience will drop by this thread some time and give me his/her two cents....


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mark the Bold*


I thought that was it too, so I completely removed the radiator with the two fans attached and had it open air (neither intake or exhaust). I am certain if I went 38mm San Ace + Shroud + Rad + 38mm San Ace <- I would get much better temps. However, with my $26 delivered Mugen 2 doing so much better, its hard for me to justify the H50 + all the fixin's right now.

Anyway, I WANT the Corsair H50 to work because I find it makes my system look so much more badass.

Thanks for all the help. I am hoping somebody who had a Mugen 2 + H50 experience will drop by this thread some time and give me his/her two cents....


i7's runs hot, if you want to see real hot, get an 860! What do you expect from running at 4+ ghz? My 860 hits 80 from 3.8ghz, but then again, that is from running LinX with maximum memory. I dont think I have seen it hit 60 from normal usage.

Update:

Just looked at your previous post too. If one core if 6 deg more, you probably mismounted it. You need to make sure it 'clicks' in, wiggle that H50 till you can feel it is locked in, and make sure it stays that way while tightening. Also make sure the 'nuts' on the back plate is in properly, mine tend to 'jump' out from time to time when loosening the mounting screws.


----------



## Iching

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


3 pin to molex (at least mine is), 4 pin will also work if that's what you have. You probably have one kicking around if you have bought a fan in the past.


I only have the adapters that came in with my Lian Li case. They use black and red wire. The yellow wire is only used to show rpms. Do you think it is going t o be enough? SO basically, I will not be able to see pump rpms but it will be running at full once I connect it to the molex.

Thank you for your help!

p.s. I guess I have just answered my own question. /-:
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=84200


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Iching*


I have got two of these but not sure whether I should keep them.

Very important questions. I own an ASus P5Q Deluxe and P5Q Pro motherboards and my fan settings in the bios are set to quiet. Will the pump get enough power from the mobo?


Are the fan settings fixed on quiet? Normally you can go in and override each one, just set the one that you have the pump attatched to at 100%. Failing that you can connect the pump to the molex as you've suggested. You will have to connect the RED wire from the pump to the YELLOW wire on the molex, and the BLACK wire on the pump to the BLACK wire on the molex.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reberto*


Pssh, way to delete my name from the quote










Sorry xD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Ladies and gents, I'd like to pose an idea and see what your thoughts are. Given that most people don't want to increase their rad surface area or add a higher flow rate pump and res, the only other viable alternative I can see for improving the cooling of the H50 is to increase the airflow over the rad. Doing so with with a 38mm fan is just too noisey an option for me. So what if I were to add a 120mm to 140mm fan adapter at each end? theoretically a 140mm fan could pump in more air without increasing the noise. Moreover the compression to 120mm should further speed up the air (venturi effect) providing an even better cooling solution. Thoughts?










I thought about this a few times and thought it was a nice idea. A few things you'll need to think about are the clearance on your motherboard I/O panel and stuff around there and any plugs/sockets such as the 8-pin CPU plug.
The next problem is how you would make such a shroud to fit this, to stop disturbance from forming your 140-120mm shroud would have to be conical shaped, at least internally. I contemplated doing this out of acrylic but it would be a very difficult job.
Finally you would need to consider fan choice. The fans you chose will effectively lose static pressure by pushing the air into a smaller space, because of the resistance of the radiator a good amount of the fans energy will be spent compressing the air so it will lose some power. I still think it will be worthwhile, and you should see an improvement over 120mm fans but make sure you pick your 140mm fans wisely - you'll want to concentrate even more on static pressure.
I actually considered hooking this up to my antec bigboy 200mm fan









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Well, as I see it Killhouse, someone has to add some class to this thread...










Oh, who?


----------



## STALKEROZA

my results intelburn
am will try occt butt ell me cpu.occt?cpu linpark? or other 3 test and test duration.
i ll wate your answer and them wright new results
its best forum
sorry 4 my bad englisj


----------



## MindBlank

I've finally finished moving the parts from my old case to my new HAF 922. So here are the pictures I promised ~ 80 pages ago.


----------



## mypcisugly

mindblank that is super clean great work!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## STALKEROZA

i have 3 position in bios seeting.smart fan,manual by rpm and manual by duty.
in my case smart fan on.is it best ?


----------



## STALKEROZA

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Nice set up///










Your temps seem a tad high though but I dont have that much experience with your CPU... (maybe its just me) My load temps on OCCT never got over 49c

1) Do you have Smart CPU fan diabled on your BIOS?
2) Do you have it as intake or exhaust.


i have 3 postion my case smart fan on.is it best ?sition in bios seeting.smart fan,manual by rpm and manual by duty.
in my case smart fan on.is it best ?


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *STALKEROZA*


i have 3 position in bios seeting.smart fan,manual by rpm and manual by duty.
in my case smart fan on.is it best ?


Set it to manual 100% duty.


----------



## STALKEROZA

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Nice set up///










Your temps seem a tad high though but I dont have that much experience with your CPU... (maybe its just me) My load temps on OCCT never got over 49c

1) Do you have Smart CPU fan diabled on your BIOS?
2) Do you have it as intake or exhaust.


i have 3 postion in bios seeting.smart fan,manual by rpm and manual by duty.in my case smart fan is on.is it best?


----------



## TheTurk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *STALKEROZA*


i have 3 position in bios seeting.smart fan,manual by rpm and manual by duty.
in my case smart fan on.is it best ?


id make it manual at %100 for the best results (if you dont mind the noise)


----------



## STALKEROZA

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheTurk* 
id make it manual at %100 for the best results (if you dont mind the noise)

manual rpm or duty?
i have read pump need full 12v.do you know how make full 12v ?
may i mast make some changes in the bios?
'sorry 4 my bad english


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *STALKEROZA* 
manual rpm or duty?
i have read pump need full 12v.do you know how make full 12v ?
may i mast make some changes in the bios?
'sorry 4 my bad english

Full power to the pump. It is silent so you cant hear it anyways


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheTurk* 
id make it manual at %100 for the best results (if you dont mind the noise)

I find the Corsair fan has quite an annoying noise at full speed









Edit: Sorry, I know I should edit...


----------



## TheTurk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *STALKEROZA* 
manual rpm or duty?
i have read pump need full 12v.do you know how make full 12v ?
may i mast make some changes in the bios?
'sorry 4 my bad english

im not sure which ....whichever lets you give full power to the pump and fans ..im guessing manual duty (it should give you %100 choice)
dont forget to save after you make changes in bios


----------



## leppie

It is summer here and it's hot.

When I was running as an intake, great temps, but during stress testing my system would normally start thermal throttling.









Now I changed to exhaust setup. So temps are a bit worse, about 4 deg C higher, but my system does not thermal throttle anymore.









So beware, the temps coming out of that rad is pretty hot, and probably wont do your case's insides any good. Make sure you have good airflow and change to exhaust.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MindBlank* 
I've finally finished moving the parts from my old case to my new HAF 922. So here are the pictures I promised ~ 80 pages ago.









I thought about doing this exact same thing in my 922. What kind of temps do you get? On mine as an exhaust at 3.8 ghz (965 C3) I get 31 idle and 47 load (prime 95 for 3 hours).


----------



## MindBlank

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mypcisugly*


mindblank that is super clean great work!!!!!!!!!!!


Thanks!









I've never done wire management before this case, as I've always had cheap, generic cases. No more!


----------



## valtopps

nvm


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MindBlank* 
Thanks!









I've never done wire management before this case, as I've always had cheap, generic cases. No more!









Yeah, good job! Now sleeve 'em









I was in the same boat.. After you get a nice case, you can't understand how you ever got by with those huge jumbles of wires everywhere!


----------



## Sozin

Finally got my Mini P180 and installed everything!










I idle between 26-30C.


----------



## Killhouse

Very nice sozin


----------



## Sozin

Thanks, I'm so happy I waited and bought this case when it was a Shellshocker...it's absolutely amazing. And has a lot more room than I thought it would.


----------



## Rick Arter

This is a great cooler for the price and can be modded easy. I just finished modding mine with different tubes and a ghetto custom reservoir. Temps are about 1c or so lower depending on room temps.


----------



## 10speedr

Some teaser shots on what im working on. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have it all put back together. Im still testing for leaks and trying to make some more room in my case.








Xspc passive aluminium reservoir


----------



## sexybastard

awesome pics and cool mod

+1


----------



## TwistedTransistor

Nice one 10speedr, u are the 4th one who modded H50 here at OCN.


----------



## arbalest

10speedr -- Nice







Glad to see I'm not the only one using Blue Painters tape for cable management! lol


----------



## stRodda

woohoo!!! im in the club.

went to frys a couple days ago and it was $79.99. i left, cause i wanted to read up more on it and think about it. went back two days later and it was on sale for $59.99, so i had to.










and to make sure the air from the rad doesnt warm up the case...


----------



## sintricate

Due to the fact that I've tried every mounting position I could without a difference in temps, I decided to leave my rad mounted on the top of the case.

Shot from outside the front









A bit closer in









and a view from inside the case









Now I know most of you are thinking I should have a push/pull config or at least use a shroud but I've tried everything and nothing changed. My room isn't exactly hot though and the inside of my case is room temp.


----------



## enkrypt3d

Just ordered my H50 I'm hoping it keeps my temps down better than my current CPU Cooler


----------



## SpykeZ

whats your load/idle temps? I idle around 33C and under full load in games etc it's like 49C

That's with 2 noctua P12's sandwhiching the radiator exhausting.


----------



## enkrypt3d

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
whats your load/idle temps? I idle around 33C and under full load in games etc it's like 49C

That's with 2 noctua P12's sandwhiching the radiator exhausting.

Idle temps are around 41C with a mild OC @ 3.8Ghz... Under load it gets around 67-68C... never gets above that. I have reseated the HC about 5 times and have made sure the TIM is in good shape... not too much or not too little...

Man I hope this H50 will drop it at least 10C.... do u think it can using 2 fans?


----------



## 10speedr

Add me to the list plz


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *10speedr*
Add me to the list plz

Killer setup champ! Now, update those system specs









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Oh, who?









My dear Killhouse,,, that would be me...


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *enkrypt3d* 
Idle temps are around 41C with a mild OC @ 3.8Ghz... Under load it gets around 67-68C... never gets above that. I have reseated the HC about 5 times and have made sure the TIM is in good shape... not too much or not too little...

Man I hope this H50 will drop it at least 10C.... do u think it can using 2 fans?









That is way too high for an AMD. Mine is only a dual core but it is OC'd 1ghz. My load temp is only 29c. Did you check your bios to make sure you have your pump and fan running at full speed?


----------



## enkrypt3d

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
That is way too high for an AMD. Mine is only a dual core but it is OC'd 1ghz. My load temp is only 29c. Did you check your bios to make sure you have your pump and fan running at full speed?

I'm still on my COOLER MASTER GeminII S RR-CCH-PBU1-GP 120mm Air cooler...

I'm hoping to get the chip to at least 4Ghz... Not sure if 200Mhz really matters but its all about bragging rights huh? lol

10speedr, why do you have the fans pointing down in the bottom of the case? Where does the air go?


----------



## Chr0n1c

Quote:


Originally Posted by *10speedr* 
Add me to the list plz

















Very nice. Any chance you logged that?


----------



## TwistedTransistor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *10speedr* 
Add me to the list plz








http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4014/...d90b6e97_b.jpg

That look very slick. however; the speed that pump works is very slow and the way how it pums slow that water I think u are creating to much presure on that pump. Lookin how it needs to suck water all the way down from the rad is just making it work slower and u could notice rise in ur temperatures.
Imo, u should definitely look to shorten that tubing and work somehow to mount that rad above or closer to the level where the pump is.

What tubing did u use? 8ID - 10OD?


----------



## andymiller

Installed mine yesterday into new silverstone tj06.


----------



## slugzkea

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lemondrips*


Just to let you know the max safe recommended is 1.4v and your way over that.


I am quite aware. temps are in range. CPU hasn't burnt out yet and it's almost been 2 years.


----------



## slugzkea

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mark the Bold*


I reinstalled it twice and checked the TIM contact area and looked great both times. Pump was definitely on and moving water. To rule out the faulty install, I moved the fan/radiator/fan outside of the case completely so the ambient temp was not a factor. Same deal.

I know you said you dont know much about i7's, but what temps SHOULD I be getting with an H50 push-pull? S-Flex G's are decent fans.

None of the screws wobble and I used the correct ones.

I completely removed the stock TIM using cleaning / purifying compounds and then used OCZ Freeze for both installs.

I also put a razor against it; the base is quite flat.

Please note guys, I think Corsair products walk on water so I'm not trolling here. Anyone here a former Mugen 2 infidel, and now a H50 believer? What temp change did YOU see?


Try resetting your cpu block using my method. The default installation guide is flawed.

Check out my method HERE.


----------



## slugzkea

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sintricate*


Due to the fact that I've tried every mounting position I could without a difference in temps, I decided to leave my rad mounted on the top of the case.

Shot from outside the front









A bit closer in









and a view from inside the case









Now I know most of you are thinking I should have a push/pull config or at least use a shroud but I've tried everything and nothing changed. My room isn't exactly hot though and the inside of my case is room temp.



I've mounted mine the same way and it works fine.

I have a high temp fix guide HERE.


----------



## SpykeZ

So I got ahold of corsair about the warranty for this thing due to some confusion. In the book it says it's 1 year warranty but on the website it says 2. Corsair confirmed it's 2 years









...granted a whole hell of a lot of you already voided that lmao


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


My dear Killhouse,,, that would be me...










my bad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slugzkea*


I have a high temp fix guide HERE.


You might want to take out the bit about the thermal paste. Corsair put Shin Etsu on the H50 which is actually quite a lot better than AS5.


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


my bad

Nice guide but take out the bit about the thermal paste. Corsair put Shin Etsu on the H50 which is actually quite a lot better than AS5.


judging from a very intense review benchmark I saw with all these different thermal compounds, theres a lot that's better than AS5

Theres quite a bit of misinformation in that post.


----------



## andymiller

what size ID and OD is best for tube swap and whats the best pre mixed coolant to buy???


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slugzkea* 
Try resetting your cpu block using my method. The default installation guide is flawed.

Check out my method HERE.

Sorry dude. I would not recommend your guide. If you read through the post in this tread, we have demonstrated many times the proper way to install these to maximize performance. Unfortunately they counterdict your method on several points.


----------



## Sozin

I just a new tube of AS5, would you guys recommend replacing the stock paste with that? My temps are, as stated in a previous post, idle under 30C, and load about 40Cish.


----------



## slugzkea

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
my bad

Nice guide but take out the bit about the thermal paste. Corsair put Shin Etsu on the H50 which is actually quite a lot better than AS5.


It's still too much paste.


----------



## 10speedr

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chr0n1c* 
Very nice. Any chance you logged that?

Stock H50: 33c at idle 52c at load

Modded H50: 27c at idle 44c at load

So far the pump is pretty strong, I think people are underestimating the power it has. My biggest concern is how reliable it is.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *10speedr* 
Stock H50: 33c at idle 52c at load

Modded H50: 27c at idle 44c at load

So far the pump is pretty strong, I think people are underestimating the power it has. My biggest concern is how reliable it is.

It's actually a pretty stout pump. It's used in boutique applications (voodoo?) with a different radiator.

I'll be modding mine to include my NB soon, along with a reservoir, and perhaps a little bigger radiator.

Of course, I'm more concerned about Noise than extreme cooling, so whatever gives decent cooling with the least amount of noise. Anything under 55c-60c under LINPACK load is good enough for me


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slugzkea* 
It's still too much paste.

I actually found it worked really well, whatever thickness of SE they put on the heatsink seemed to work just right. My temps went up when I applied MX3.


----------



## purduepilot

I do like this cooler... Ambient is about 18C.


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slugzkea* 
It's still too much paste.

I feel sorry for the people at the corsair forums who think you actually know what your talking about.

Please change that post over there so I dont have to join that forum just to bash your thread.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sozin* 
I just a new tube of AS5, would you guys recommend replacing the stock paste with that? My temps are, as stated in a previous post, idle under 30C, and load about 40Cish.

Shin Etsu is already better than AS5 and MX3 and similar products. If you wanted to improve then some IC Diamond 7 would be good.


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Capwn* 
I feel sorry for the people at the corsair forums who think you actually know what your talking about.

Please change that post over there so I dont have to join that forum just to bash your thread.

I don't care what anyone says. That's funny right there.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
I don't care what anyone says. That's funny right there.


----------



## forthewinwinx2

Does anyone know if you can control the fan speed of this thing? (not the chassis fan)
I'm trying to make an ultraquiet build but when my temps hit >60 it starts to really irritate me

Other than that it's a beautiful cooler


----------



## 10speedr

Quote:


Originally Posted by *forthewinwinx2* 
Does anyone know if you can control the fan speed of this thing? (not the chassis fan)
I'm trying to make an ultraquiet build but when my temps hit >60 it starts to really irritate me

Other than that it's a beautiful cooler









What I did was go into bios turn off smart fan and manually adjust the fan speeds to 100%. The bios reads 1430rpm which I think is the fastest it can go.


----------



## forthewinwinx2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *10speedr* 
What I did was go into bios turn off smart fan and manually adjust the fan speeds to 100%. The bios reads 1430rpm which I think is the fastest it can go.

Oh, I'm trying to turn it down since I'm running my stuff on stock lol.
I'm going for quietness


----------



## Capwn

Dont try to throttle the pump. + Its really quite anyways. The fan on the other hand....


----------



## forthewinwinx2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Capwn* 
Dont try to throttle the pump. + Its really quite anyways. The fan on the other hand....

I'm talking about the fan built-in that gets noisy as hell at >60C
Not the 120mm case fan you install to blow cold air in- you can't even hear it


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *forthewinwinx2* 
I'm talking about the fan built-in that gets noisy as hell at >60C
Not the 120mm case fan you install to blow cold air in- you can't even hear it









The power supply fan? If so, (like mine was) you need to just remove that plastic divider and pull the heatshrink off the thermrister. Viola, silent


----------



## forthewinwinx2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
The power supply fan? If so, (like mine was) you need to just remove that plastic divider and pull the heatshrink off the thermrister. Viola, silent









Sorry I'm quite new to this, didn't quite understand lol.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
The power supply fan? If so, (like mine was) you need to just remove that plastic divider and pull the heatshrink off the thermrister. Viola, silent









If your working the PSU hard, i wouldnt recommend it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *forthewinwinx2* 
Sorry I'm quite new to this, didn't quite understand lol.

Can you find or photo whats making the noise?


----------



## forthewinwinx2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
If your working the PSU hard, i wouldnt recommend it.

Can you find or photo whats making the noise?


It's basically coming from the round thing you plug onto the CPU.
A fan or something perhaps inside?

Thanks btw


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *forthewinwinx2* 
It's basically coming from the round thing you plug onto the CPU.
A fan or something perhaps inside?

Thanks btw

That round thing is the pump. Its virtually silent. Even at full power it doenst ever exceed 1440 rpm. Even at 60* it shouldnt run much if any faster. If its making more noise than the fans. you might have a defective pump.


----------



## ErBall

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sozin* 
Finally got my Mini P180 and installed everything!











If you can swing it I find that I get a whole lot better temps in this config:


----------



## Sozin

How much better compared to mine already?


----------



## ErBall

We cannot obviously do an apples to apples comparison as we have completely different platforms. But I dropped around 7c on load switching to this setup from the back.

This way also allows me to use a shroud too.


----------



## forthewinwinx2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ErBall* 
If you can swing it I find that I get a whole lot better temps in this config:









May I ask which ways your fans face? I have a bunch of fans.. I'm pretty sure I can fit 1 or 2 more in my case.

Like, does the label on your fans point inward towards the inside of the case, or is it pointed towards the outside.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *enkrypt3d* 
10speedr, why do you have the fans pointing down in the bottom of the case? Where does the air go?









Enkrypt3d, I suspect 10spreedr is utililising a fan port for either exhaust or intake... I cant tell by the photo. Its a nice setup, none the less









Quote:


Originally Posted by *andymiller*
Installed mine yesterday into new silverstone tj06.

Nice roomy set up. What fans are you using?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Enkrypt3d, I suspect 10spreedr is utililising a fan port for either exhaust or intake... I cant tell by the photo. Its a nice setup, none the less









Agreed, definitely nice setup. My guess is that it's setup as intake. At least, it would make the most sense (to me anyways) for it to be that way. Cold air in the front, warm out out the back/top.


----------



## LedFloyd

He is my H50 Setup as Push/pull intake. got a big boy 200 as an exhaust almost right above it in my antec 1200. had to really squeeze it in to fit though.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LedFloyd* 
He is my H50 Setup as Push/pull intake. got a big boy 200 as an exhaust almost right above it in my antec 1200. had to really squeeze it in to fit though.

Welcome to the club. Nice pics too. Hey, if it's a tight fit you might want to try re-arranging the way the radiator and pump are sitting if you haven't already. Try turning the rad so the tubes are on the top and the corsair logo on the pump is no longer upside down, like in this pic and see if that helps alleviate the tight squeeze strain on the tubes.


----------



## LedFloyd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
Welcome to the club. Nice pics too. Hey, if it's a tight fit you might want to try re-arranging the way the radiator and pump are sitting if you haven't already. Try turning the rad so the tubes are on the top and the corsair logo on the pump is no longer upside down, like in this pic and see if that helps alleviate the tight squeeze strain on the tubes.

I cant fit it in the case with the pipes at the top as the part with the pipes stick out a little further than the bottom, as it is it pressing hard against the roof of the case. I agree that would be better looking if only i had half an inch more clearence at the top of my case.


----------



## LedFloyd

On another note, im thinking of cutting up a pair of the wifes tights and slipping that over the rad before i screw it in. The thing is a right bugger to clean the dust out so this would act as a filter. Do you think this would be a good idea or has anyone else come up with a better idea?


----------



## Maximous

Hey peeps. Anybody mounted a 120mm rad and a 240mm rad on this pump? Or do i have to use one more pump?

Thnx


----------



## Sethy666

Folks,

I need some sensible opinions for you...

Im having a rather animated discussion here with a work colleague around auxiliary cooling for the H50.

_He maintains the following..._
If you have an extra fan say a antec spot cooler, directing air directly at the pump head, this will assist in cooling the pump - hence lowering the temp of the coolant before it reaches the radiator.

_Im countering with:_
The pump head and tubes are made of fairly thick plastic, thus the cooling effect would be negligible. The only thing being cooled would be the surrounds of the mobo and again, would have negligible impact on coolant temps coming out of the pump.

He is getting rather antsy and Im fearing for my physical wellbeing ATM... any assistance welcome









Quote:


Originally Posted by *LedFloyd*
On another note, im thinking of cutting up a pair of the wifes tights and slipping that over the rad before i screw it in. The thing is a right bugger to clean the dust out so this would act as a filter. Do you think this would be a good idea or has anyone else come up with a better idea?

Great idea! 10/10 for lateral thinking! Just make sure she is not wearing them at the time


----------



## LedFloyd

@ Sethy666 that sounds to me like it would just blow the hot air from it on to the mobo, I dont think a fan could cool the pump enough to make any difference.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LedFloyd* 
@ Sethy666 that sounds to me like it would just blow the hot air from it on to the mobo, I dont think a fan could cool the pump enough to make any difference.

Yeah!
1 = me
0 - him


----------



## Hammerdin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LedFloyd* 
On another note, im thinking of cutting up a pair of the wifes tights and slipping that over the rad before i screw it in. The thing is a right bugger to clean the dust out so this would act as a filter. Do you think this would be a good idea or has anyone else come up with a better idea?

I ordered one of these with my h50, i plan to have the h50 as an intake and that filter will be attatched to the fan on the outside of the case. Ill post my results when i get it setup.

like: filter>fan>shroud>case>rad>fan


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Folks,

I need some sensible opinions for you...

Im having a rather animated discussion here with a work colleague around auxiliary cooling for the H50.

_He maintains the following..._
If you have an extra fan say a antec spot cooler, directing air directly at the pump head, this will assist in cooling the pump - hence lowering the temp of the coolant before it reaches the radiator.

_Im countering with:_
The pump head and tubes are made of fairly thick plastic, thus the cooling effect would be negligible. The only thing being cooled would be the surrounds of the mobo and again, would have negligible impact on coolant temps coming out of the pump.

He is getting rather antsy and Im fearing for my physical wellbeing ATM... any assistance welcome









2-0

Your friend is talking the more graspable excretion of a male cow. The effect will be neglible.

EDIT: Actually, maybe if you cooled your pump you could OC it, therefore increasing flow rate to improve cooling. HUZZAH!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
2-0

Your friend is talking the more graspable excretion of a male cow. The effect will be neglible.

EDIT: Actually, maybe if you cooled your pump you could OC it, therefore increasing flow rate to improve cooling. HUZZAH!

Ha! That was the head shot... zing!

He's backed down and sees the error in his flawed logic. He needs to make the coffees all day now... that was the terms of the bet









Thanks guys... I knew I could count on you


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Ha! That was the head shot... zing!

He's backed down and sees the error in his flawed logic. He needs to make the coffees all day now... that was the terms of the bet









Thanks guys... I knew I could count on you









On topic: H50 yay!

Off topic: Where do you work?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
On topic: H50 yay!

Off topic: Where do you work?









I manage the Medical Centre at the Steelworks here. Some days quiet,,, some are very busy. Today is a quiet day,,, so far


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Folks,

I need some sensible opinions for you...

Im having a rather animated discussion here with a work colleague around auxiliary cooling for the H50.

_He maintains the following..._
If you have an extra fan say a antec spot cooler, directing air directly at the pump head, this will assist in cooling the pump - hence lowering the temp of the coolant before it reaches the radiator.

_Im countering with:_
The pump head and tubes are made of fairly thick plastic, thus the cooling effect would be negligible. The only thing being cooled would be the surrounds of the mobo and again, would have negligible impact on coolant temps coming out of the pump.

He is getting rather antsy and Im fearing for my physical wellbeing ATM... any assistance welcome









While directing a fan on the pump would be better than nothing at all, the temp difference would be negligible. There's no point in faning the tubes and the hard plastic shield that covers the pump. You would gain better results by cooling the bare metal (aka radiator). +1 for you


----------



## enkrypt3d

I was laying in bed last night wondering what would happen if you submerged the rad in ice water? (without the fans of course lol)

Or maybe get a few of those ice packs that are sealed so they dont leak and strap them to the rad? lol


----------



## Jocarl1215

h50 owner here


----------



## Chr0n1c

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jocarl1215* 
h50 owner here

Pics or it didn't happen.


----------



## enkrypt3d

Quote:


Originally Posted by *enkrypt3d* 
I was laying in bed last night wondering what would happen if you submerged the rad in ice water? (without the fans of course lol)

Or maybe get a few of those ice packs that are sealed so they dont leak and strap them to the rad? lol









What do u guys think?


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *enkrypt3d* 
What do u guys think?

I think BE CAREFUL AND lets see it. PICS PICS PICS please.


----------



## xmisery

Hey fellas, I'm looking to change out my stock fans on the H50 and wanted to get some feedback from anyone who's ran San Ace or Gentle Typhoon fans to find out which would yield better cooling/performance. I only have 95mm to work with inside my case from the very back up to the edge of the pump.

I've narrowed it down to these two options, unless someone recommends something better?

Option A:
1x San Ace 9G1212H101 38mm Fan + 30mm TFC Xtender Shroud (93mm total)

Option B:
2x Gentle Typhoon AP-15's 25mm Fans (1850rpm) w/no shroud, setup in a push/pull config (75mm total)

Appreciate any/all feedback. Thanks!


----------



## Chr0n1c

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Capwn* 
I think BE CAREFUL AND lets see it. PICS PICS PICS please.

Yup, let's see.


----------



## enkrypt3d

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chr0n1c* 
Yup, let's see.

Im still waiting on my H50 to arrive...... I'll let u know how it goes hehe


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *enkrypt3d* 
I was laying in bed last night wondering what would happen if you submerged the rad in ice water? (without the fans of course lol)

Or maybe get a few of those ice packs that are sealed so they dont leak and strap them to the rad? lol









Interesting concept. However, it doesn't seem very practical for everyday use. How would you keep the source (ice/ice packs) cold over time? Either way, if you're going to do it, I'm interested in seeing how you go about it and the results!


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
Hey fellas, I'm looking to change out my stock fans on the H50 and wanted to get some feedback from anyone who's ran San Ace or Gentle Typhoon fans to find out which would yield better cooling/performance. I only have 95mm to work with inside my case from the very back up to the edge of the pump.

I've narrowed it down to these two options, unless someone recommends something better?

Option A:
1x San Ace 9G1212H101 38mm Fan + 30mm TFC Xtender Shroud (93mm total)

Option B:
2x Gentle Typhoon AP-15's 25mm Fans (1850rpm) w/no shroud, setup in a push/pull config (75mm total)

Appreciate any/all feedback. Thanks!

Can you mount one of the fans outside the case maybe. Make a little room for your shroud. I myself have my shroud and intake fan outside my case. as seen here.


----------



## enkrypt3d

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Interesting concept. However, it doesn't seem very practical for everyday use. How would you keep the source (ice/ice packs) cold over time? Either way, if you're going to do it, I'm interested in seeing how you go about it and the results!










or maybe have the PC sitting next to one of those small refrigerators or freezers and have the radiator inside?


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Hmm.. Not sure what has changed but my cpu temps have increased by 5C, up to 37C idle.. Kinda scared me thinking the pressure mod stripped so I checked the nuts but they were fine. I just realized since my room is much hotter than before :-\\
It might be my CM R4 intake fans I have on the rads. It may also be time to clean out dust filters. My room temperature hasnt changed more than 10F. 
May be time to get a Sycthe Kaze and a shroud


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Hey fellas, I'm looking to change out my stock fans on the H50 and wanted to get some feedback from anyone who's ran San Ace or Gentle Typhoon fans to find out which would yield better cooling/performance. I only have 95mm to work with inside my case from the very back up to the edge of the pump.

I've narrowed it down to these two options, unless someone recommends something better?

Option A:
1x San Ace 9G1212H101 38mm Fan + 30mm TFC Xtender Shroud (93mm total)

Option B:
2x Gentle Typhoon AP-15's 25mm Fans (1850rpm) w/no shroud, setup in a push/pull config (75mm total)

Appreciate any/all feedback. Thanks!


Since I've tried both except I used the San Ace with 2 25mm shrouds...
Best performance = San Ace but motor/bearing noise was more than I was comfortable with.
Best sound quality = GTs and close in performance.

The San Ace has amazing air flow and pressure.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Since I've tried both except I used the San Ace with 2 25mm shrouds...
Best performance = San Ace but motor/bearing noise was more than I was comfortable with.
Best sound quality = GTs and close in performance.

The San Ace has amazing air flow and pressure.


Yeah, I kind of figured that. Is there really that much more difference in cooling with a single San Ace + 30mm shroud? Do you recall what the delta was between those options?


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Yeah, I kind of figured that. Is there really that much more difference in cooling with a single San Ace + 30mm shroud? Do you recall what the delta was between those options?


1 to 2 degrees with OCCT Linpack. Since you are using an i7, with higher thermals, you might see a bit more but I'm not sure.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *enkrypt3d*


I was laying in bed last night wondering what would happen if you submerged the rad in ice water? (without the fans of course lol)

Or maybe get a few of those ice packs that are sealed so they dont leak and strap them to the rad? lol










You may be the founder of a new form or cooling!
Air,
Water,
Phase change,
Peltier cooling or thermoelectric cooling 
Liquid nitrogen 
Liquid helium 
and
_Ice pack! _

You know the drill. Start a thread, detail your trials and publish the results


----------



## enkrypt3d

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Interesting concept. However, it doesn't seem very practical for everyday use. How would you keep the source (ice/ice packs) cold over time? Either way, if you're going to do it, I'm interested in seeing how you go about it and the results!










I guess you'd have to only do it for benchmarking and then put the fans back for every day use...


----------



## vrm4

Quote:



Originally Posted by *10speedr*


Add me to the list plz


















That looks nice! Did you have a problem bleeding the system as the res is lower than the pump?


----------



## looser101

OCCT linpack with 2x Gentle typhoons push/pull and a 25mm shroud on each









GT's notes: Perform well, quiet, slightly pricey.

OCCT linpack with San Ace 1011 push only and 2x 25mm shrouds









SanAce notes: Performs very well even by itself, too noisy for me, a bit pricey but you only need one.

CoolerMaster R4 push/pull no shrouds










CoolerMaster R4 push with shroud pull no shroud










CoolerMaster R4 push no shroud pull with shroud










CoolerMaster R4 push/pull with shrouds









CoolerMaster R4 notes: Perform well, louder than GT's but still reasonably quiet, pull fan produces a high pitch whine without a shroud, cheap.


----------



## enkrypt3d

pics?


----------



## fluxc0d3r




----------



## Chr0n1c

Nice setup flux


----------



## Maximous

Possible with to rads on h50 pump? one 120 and on 240....


----------



## enkrypt3d

What shroud are you talking about? i dont see it


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Maximous* 
Possible with to rads on h50 pump? one 120 and on 240....

Are you asking if it is possible to run a 120mm rad and a 240mm rad - at the same time? Im confused...


----------



## Maximous

Yeah two rads at the same time. Or will it be to much for the pump?


----------



## intelfan

Just wondering, will this fit an Antec 900 with the door fully closed?


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Maximous*


Yeah two rads at the same time. Or will it be to much for the pump?


It's possible*, but what is the logic behind that? Why not just run a 240?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Maximous*


Yeah two rads at the same time. Or will it be to much for the pump?


There was a member that tried for a 240mm rad mod but it failed. The author put it down to the pump...

Its a good pump but that might be a big ask.

Have a look here:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...-radiator.html


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *intelfan*


Just wondering, will this fit an Antec 900 with the door fully closed?


Yes, its should...
Source:
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1441432


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


There was a member that tried for a 240mm rad mod but it failed. The author put it down to the pump...

Its a good pump but that might be a big ask.

Have a look here:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...-radiator.html


Yeah, but he tried to run the 240 AND the 120 in the loop... MAybe a LITTLE too much for the H50 pump







lol


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


Yeah, but he tried to run the 240 AND the 120 in the loop... MAybe a LITTLE too much for the H50 pump







lol


Didnt I say that?









Quote:



Its a good pump but that might be a big ask.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *enkrypt3d*


What shroud are you talking about? i dont see it


This thing here.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Didnt I say that?










Probably...









I'm going to be modding mine tomorrow... Pending I can make it to Micro Center and they actually HAVE what I need.

Does anyone know the pages where I can find the size of tubing/coolant/etc. I need?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


Probably...









I'm going to be modding mine tomorrow... Pending I can make it to Micro Center and they actually HAVE what I need.

Does anyone know the pages where I can find the size of tubing/coolant/etc. I need?



Have a look at the first page of this thread... heaps of links to mods and examples









Good luck champ!


----------



## arbalest

D'oh! Didn't even think of it... I always do things the hard way. lol Should have known someone would actually do the sensible thing and post everything on the first page!

Forgive me...


----------



## Pings

Asetek makes the H50. Asetek also makes there own brand coolers. There is the Asetek LCLC and the Asetek LCLC 240MM Radiator. I've seen someone post another OEM LCLC 240mm from some random brand I never herd of. But, they're out there. From what I understand the H50 has water inside them and the Asetek brand has a some sort of a liquid cooling fluid.

Also check out the *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink* for more shrouds and shroud info.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


D'oh! Didn't even think of it... I always do things the hard way. lol Should have known someone would actually do the sensible thing and post everything on the first page!

Forgive me...










Ahh.. its all good... have fun and take plenty of pics!

Yah! Its the cavalry! <Pings>


----------



## Pings

Yea I'm thinking about buying the Asetek LCLC 240MM Radiator, and putting that in my gaming rig. I want to try a push pull shroud setup with it. But, I don't know if there is enough room in my case, then again my case is huge.

Killhouse you should let Asetek LCLC, Asetek LCLC 240MM Radiator, and other Asetek OEM owners join the club.


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Folks,

I need some sensible opinions for you...


The pump and block generates heat. So having so direct air blowing on them will help it dissipate the heat quicker.

Anyways, that is your least concern if you are running as an intake. For exhaust setup, I would recommend it (makes a little difference on my side, especially since my graphics card generate a lot of heat).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
If your working the PSU hard, i wouldnt recommend it.

My PSU runs a lot cooler after that mod. And it is silent now. The problem is that it has a very noisy fan and it starts running too fast at too low temp. Due to previous bad airflow, the thermistor would take a good 5 minutes to cool down (iow the fan was driving me crazy at idle too).


----------



## ELEVEN

This probably sounds ridiculous but I found that the best way for me to cool my processor with my H50 is to run two fans sandwiching the radiator. I run the fan that is attached to the case so that it pulls cool air from outside my case onto the radiator. Then I run the fan that is attached to the other side of the radiator so that it pulls air from inside the case onto the radiator. Basically both fans blow onto the radiator. Push - Push. Ironically i am able to decrease the temp of my CPU by about 5c - 10c. at idle.

I read the article about the push - pull method and gave it a try. Problem was I accidentally mounted the inner most fan the wrong way (blowing toward the radiator rather than away from it. (Push - Push). Realizing my error I flipped the fan around to achieve the Push - Pull method only to find that my CPU actually ran hotter at idle.

At idle:

Push - Pull method = 43c - 45c
Push - Push method = 35c - 38c

Just a side note, I have not tested this method while loading my CPU, but I can't imagine why the result wouldn't be the same. I will run some tests and post my results.

Any response to these findings would be appreciated!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ELEVEN* 
This probably sounds ridiculous but I found that the best way for me to cool my processor with my H50 is to run two fans sandwiching the radiator.
Any response to these findings would be appreciated!

Nope... not ridiculous, just interesting...

It does pose the question around fan life span and heat dispersion,,, where is the heat actually going?


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ELEVEN* 
This probably sounds ridiculous but I found that the best way for me to cool my processor with my H50 is to run two fans sandwiching the radiator. I run the fan that is attached to the case so that it pulls cool air from outside my case onto the radiator. Then I run the fan that is attached to the other side of the radiator so that it pulls air from inside the case onto the radiator. Basically both fans blow onto the radiator. Push - Push. Ironically i am able to decrease the temp of my CPU by about 5c - 10c. at idle.

I read the article about the push - pull method and gave it a try. Problem was I accidentally mounted the inner most fan the wrong way (blowing toward the radiator rather than away from it. (Push - Push). Realizing my error I flipped the fan around to achieve the Push - Pull method only to find that my CPU actually ran hotter at idle.

At idle:

Push - Pull method = 43c - 45c
Push - Push method = 35c - 38c

Just a side note, I have not tested this method while loading my CPU, but I can't imagine why the result wouldn't be the same. I will run some tests and post my results.

Any response to these findings would be appreciated!


I'm not worried about the term push pull. What is pushing and what is pulling is perspective according to air flow. What I'm about to explain is will be from left to right and my arrows will follow the airflow, and nothing else.

You want good airflow in your case, it is very important. I not sure what you talking about. So you have (⇇FAN⇇H50⇉FAN⇉) or (⇉FAN⇉H50⇇FAN⇇). Either way that's not a good idea. It will throw off your airflow off inside your case. I know you said you got better temps now. But, it's winter your "PUSH/PUSH" is working for you now, but it will not work as good in the summer and other seasons.

For best results for the H50 seams to be adding shroud. Try this:

• For exhaust (⇇Fan⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Fan)
• For intake (Fan⇉H50⇉Shroud⇉Fan⇉)

I want to know does your GFX card have a air handler? Does it push hot air out the rear of your case, or does just have a fan just cooling GPU? I have no clue what a "BFG 9600 XT" is or I would have told you exhaust or intake works better for you.

Check out the *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink* for more on shrouds and shroud ideas.


----------



## loksmith78

add me plz. i'm a noob here..be easy







..
after spending hours on end on different forums looking at push/pull configs, i didn't really see anyone mount the pull fan on the outside of their case..decided to try it out..will post temps when i can. i haven't even powered it on yet.
i'm using corsair's provided fan and the fan that came on my lian li case. will probably add a shroud later. it's currently in a push/pull exhaust.

noob question: i plugged the push fan on CPU_FAN and have the pull fan hooked up to my psu. is this ok??

thanks..and sorry for the crappy phone pic of my work in progress..


----------



## Pings

I got a fan and a shroud on the outside of my case. Not for any real reason, I just think it looks cleaner like this. As for your "noob question", go into your bios and make sure those fan are at full speed.


----------



## PCPaladin

Hey finished my build last week and promised to post some pics. Not too impressed with the temps. With a slight OC on my i7-920 to 3.3 GHz I'm pushing 70c after 10 minutes of Prime95.

Using stock TIM, push/pull fans in exhaust config. Gentle Typhoon AP-14 on the back, rated at 1450 RPM and 50 CFM just like the stock Corsair fan that's in front of the rad.<=|fan|shroud|case|H50|fan|<=. The shroud is more for acoustics than airflow, I wasn't brave enough to dremel out the grill on the case. The case has one 120 fan drawing air in the front and three 80's on the sides.

I think the H50 looks cool and gives me room for my RAM heatspreaders and side fan. But it doesn't look like I have any headroom to make a run at 4.0 GHz with the temps as they are now. I may try some better fans.

@Pings - yaay, glad to see you back


----------



## PCPaladin

I also wanted to post my temps. The OC idle looks good, but it was only running for a minute before I loaded it. Was in a hurry to test it with Prim95. Ambients 70-74F


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *intelfan*


Just wondering, will this fit an Antec 900 with the door fully closed?


Absolutely









Quote:



Originally Posted by *loksmith78*


add me plz. i'm a noob here..be easy







..
after spending hours on end on different forums looking at push/pull configs, i didn't really see anyone mount the pull fan on the outside of their case..decided to try it out..will post temps when i can. i haven't even powered it on yet.
i'm using corsair's provided fan and the fan that came on my lian li case. will probably add a shroud later. it's currently in a push/pull exhaust.

noob question: i plugged the push fan on CPU_FAN and have the pull fan hooked up to my psu. is this ok??

thanks..and sorry for the crappy phone pic of my work in progress..


Nice setup there, many people over here mount their fans outside actually. Because we like to add shrouds and massive fans and stuff









Your fans are plugged in correctly - your fan plugged into CPU fan will probably have some sort of smart-fan control, meaning it will vary speed with temperature. You probably cant do this with the one plugged into the PSU, but thats fine. One fan will be stuck at 100% and one will vary with temperature. If the fans are different I suggest putting your weaker/quieter fan at 100% and putting it in the pull position. Though to be honest if you have it the other way around you're not going to notice much, if any difference.

Welcome to OCN









Some nice photos around here, I only update the member list once a day, but I will do it tonight.


----------



## looser101

Anyone interested in more fan tests? Picked up 2 CoolerMaster R4's yesterday.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Did I get thrown under the bus with my small problem?









Quote:

Hmm.. Not sure what has changed but my cpu temps have increased by 5C, up to 37C idle.. Kinda scared me thinking the pressure mod stripped so I checked the nuts but they were fine. I just realized since my room is much hotter than before :-\\
It might be my CM R4 intake fans I have on the rads. It may also be time to clean out dust filters. My room temperature hasnt changed more than 10F.
May be time to get a Sycthe Kaze and a shroud.Hmm.. Not sure what has changed but my cpu temps have increased by 5C, up to 37C idle.. Kinda scared me thinking the pressure mod stripped so I checked the nuts but they were fine. I just realized since my room is much hotter than before :-\\
It might be my CM R4 intake fans I have on the rads. It may also be time to clean out dust filters. My room temperature hasnt changed more than 10F.
May be time to get a Sycthe Kaze and a shroud
I think the issue causing this is my room temperature. The temps before were during the coldest times we had here in Florida (high40sF). So this made my room temp much cooler, whereas now my room is warmer.

I thought the shroud was supposed to go <push<rad<shroud<pull
to get more cool air across the rad not <push<shroud<rad<pull
Or is it backwards where it should be pull.......................push


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Anyone interested in more fan tests? Picked up 2 CoolerMaster R4's yesterday.


I'm interested in more tests. Wondering how those R4's compare to the GT 15's you had with dual shrouds, if they perform better or not.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


I thought the shroud was supposed to go <push<rad<shroud<pull
to get more cool air across the rad not <push<shroud<rad<pull
Or is it backwards where it should be pull.......................push


I thought I've seen test results show that its better to have your shroud on the push fan side to remove the dead spot from the fan hub.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


I'm interested in more tests. Wondering how those R4's compare to the GT 15's you had with dual shrouds, if they perform better or not.


I'll add the results to my previous post later tonight. CM R4's are about equal in performance, a bit louder but still reasonably quiet with a nice tonal quality. Definitely the price/performance winner at ~$10 each.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Did I get thrown under the bus with my small problem?









I think the issue causing this is my room temperature. The temps before were during the coldest times we had here in Florida (high40sF). So this made my room temp much cooler, whereas now my room is warmer.

I thought the shroud was supposed to go <push<rad<shroud<pull
to get more cool air across the rad not <push<shroud<rad<pull
Or is it backwards where it should be pull.......................push


Get back under the bus!









Sounds like it's definetely your ambient temps, you dont have anything to worry about. You could check the rad for dust build up though, that could also add a couple of degrees. If it's worse than a hoover can deal with then you might want to buy some compressed air.

Not 100% sure on the shroud question, I believe the shroud should go on the push side.


----------



## SpykeZ

I was wondering the same thing. I got mine as exhaust and is idling at 29C right now but I'd like to get the shroud.

In threory I thought it would need to be fan shroud radiator fan since the shroud would eliminate that dead spot and push air through the middle?


----------



## Killhouse

Yes. Though physics and common sense says that the pull fan has a deadspot too, and that adding a pull-side shroud should also lower temps.

The absolute best result is to put a shroud on both sides, but for one shroud I think people are seeing best results with it on the push side.


----------



## loksmith78

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


I got a fan and a shroud on the outside of my case. Not for any real reason, I just think it looks cleaner like this. As for your "noob question", go into your bios and make sure those fan are at full speed.











thanks for the tip. what kind of screws are you using for your shroud and fan outside of the case?


----------



## loksmith78

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Absolutely









Nice setup there, many people over here mount their fans outside actually. Because we like to add shrouds and massive fans and stuff









Your fans are plugged in correctly - your fan plugged into CPU fan will probably have some sort of smart-fan control, meaning it will vary speed with temperature. You probably cant do this with the one plugged into the PSU, but thats fine. One fan will be stuck at 100% and one will vary with temperature. If the fans are different I suggest putting your weaker/quieter fan at 100% and putting it in the pull position. Though to be honest if you have it the other way around you're not going to notice much, if any difference.

Welcome to OCN









Some nice photos around here, I only update the member list once a day, but I will do it tonight.


thanks for the suggestion and welcome!


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Yes. Though physics and common sense says that the pull fan has a deadspot too, and that adding a pull-side shroud should also lower temps.

The absolute best result is to put a shroud on both sides, but for one shroud I think people are seeing best results with it on the push side.


I have mine on the pull side. But I have a couple slipstreams coming today so I may shroud both sides and see what happens. If anything else, it quiets the fans.


----------



## SpykeZ

I love this H50









my 965BE is OC'd to 4ghz and it'd been on prime95 for over an hour now and is staying 56-57C


----------



## tlxxxsracer

So the shroud should go on the side that has the fan pulling air off from the radiator? (Not on the side with the fan blowing the air onto the rad)
I just want to clarify... I got some rebate money and I think Im gonna do the Res tube mod, and get a better fan and shroud. And While Im at it, ill lap the cpu and the h50 for added measure









One question about the res mod. Should I get 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", or 7/16" ID tubing?
Because on the product description says it comes "and is shipped with two sets of nylon hose barbs, 3/8" and Â½" to accommodate most high-flow systems." So I guess what tubing so it will best fit with the h50 and rad? I dont like the mm because all tubing is in inches. I guess I just need explaining rather than get 8mm (even though I havent found any 8mm tubing online).

Nevermind. Figured 3/8 inch is the one I need. Does it matter what the OD is?


----------



## CaptnBB

Here's what I have in the works.


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
So the shroud should go on the side that has the fan pulling air off from the radiator? (Not on the side with the fan blowing the air onto the rad)
I just want to clarify... I got some rebate money and I think Im gonna do the Res tube mod, and get a better fan and shroud. And While Im at it, ill lap the cpu and the h50 for added measure









One question about the res mod. Should I get 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", or 7/16" ID tubing?
Because on the product description says it comes "and is shipped with two sets of nylon hose barbs, 3/8â€ and Â½â€ to accommodate most high-flow systems." So I guess what tubing so it will best fit with the h50 and rad? I dont like the mm because all tubing is in inches. I guess I just need explaining rather than get 8mm (even though I havent found any 8mm tubing online).

Nevermind. Figured 3/8 inch is the one I need. Does it matter what the OD is?

Well I put mine on the pull side. But there a lot of opinions on this. You will have to test your system and see what works best for you. OD kinda matters. You don't want thin walled tubing. I will say one thing that irks me is the fact some guys use zip ties or plastic clamps on there hoses then wonder why it leaks. Do yourself a favor and go to the hardware store and buy some metal hose clamps. I have built a several high end water systems and I have never had a leak and I have never had to test it for leaks before I installed it other then to bleed it. Why? Because I know how to clamp a freakin hose.







Anyway, have fun and good luck.


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


So the shroud should go on the side that has the fan pulling air off from the radiator? (Not on the side with the fan blowing the air onto the rad)


What I'm about to explain will be from left to right and my arrows will follow the airflow, and nothing else. For the best results for the H50 seams to be adding shroud. The shroud is pulls more CFM and eliminates dead air if the shroud is after the H50. This is tested by my Anemometer (CFM meter). Try this:

• For exhaust (⇇Fan⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Fan)
• For intake (Fan⇉H50⇉Shroud⇉Fan⇉)


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Well I went to homedepot (before coming back here to see for a response). I ending up getting 3/8" ID(9.53mm) and 1/2"(12.7mm) OD tubing. 10ft for just under 4$. 
Not sure if this is what I should have gotten or what. Bet much cheaper than 2$ a foot for a "PC" cooling company.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Well I went to homedepot (before coming back here to see for a response). I ending up getting 3/8" ID(9.53mm) and 1/2"(12.7mm) OD tubing. 10ft for just under 4$.
Not sure if this is what I should have gotten or what. Bet much cheaper than 2$ a foot for a "PC" cooling company.

Hey, I'm doing the exact same thing as we speak...

I was just at Home Depot, and picked up 10' of 1/4 ID - 3/8 OD clear tubing. Maybe you missed it? No worries, just thinking about whether it'll be a little tougher to fit clamps/zipties around the H50 pump with that thicker tubing.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
Hey, I'm doing the exact same thing as we speak...

I was just at Home Depot, and picked up 10' of 1/4 ID - 3/8 OD clear tubing. Maybe you missed it? No worries, just thinking about whether it'll be a little tougher to fit clamps/zipties around the H50 pump with that thicker tubing.

Well I looked at the microres and the barbs are for 3/8" or 1/2". So I figured the 3/8" ID was what I should have gotten. It also doesnt help when some tubing wasnt even in the correct spot







LOL
You dont want to get too thin of tubing though so its easier to kink. Maybe you can post pictures of your tubing on the pump and see how much clearance you have.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Well I looked at the microres and the barbs are for 3/8" or 1/2". So I figured the 3/8" ID was what I should have gotten. It also doesnt help when some tubing wasnt even in the correct spot







LOL
You dont want to get too thin of tubing though so its easier to kink. Maybe you can post pictures of your tubing on the pump and see how much clearance you have.

I will. I'm kind of doing measurements right now and such. I just grabbed the tubing that Willhemmens recommended.

I'm not to worried about it kinking... but we'll see. I'll post up in a few hours, as its gonna take a bit. lol

Arbalest


----------



## elo820

Please! If you guys are making one! Make a vid tutorial! I want to know how to do it =D.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Im getting ready to order the res, anti-kink coils and ordering a ultra kaze fan. Anything else I should get? Well Willhemmens said he got 8mm, also because the barbs on the microres are for 3/8". 3/8" is closer to 8mm than any other common US standard tube size.
Maybe my reasoning is just wack, I dont know.
I was thinking of getting some of this though instead http://www.jab-tech.com/PrimoFlex-Pr...D-pr-4115.html
Only because I like the blue rather than clear. XD LOL

I'll probably make a video tutorial. Because I want to contribute to something at least.


----------



## dkev

Just loaded my rad with dual shrouds and Slipstreams. Much more quiet then the R4's. Cools well but I gave up about 4c Delta T.


----------



## elo820

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Im getting ready to order the res, anti-kink coils and ordering a ultra kaze fan. Anything else I should get? Well Willhemmens said he got 8mm, also because the barbs on the microres are for 3/8". 3/8" is closer to 8mm than any other common US standard tube size. 
Maybe my reasoning is just wack, I dont know. 
I was thinking of getting some of this though instead http://www.jab-tech.com/PrimoFlex-Pr...D-pr-4115.html
Only because I like the blue rather than clear. XD LOL

I'll probably make a video tutorial. Because I want to contribute to something at least.


Does it matter which res you get? YOU the best!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dkev*


Just loaded my rad with dual shrouds and Slipstreams. Much more quiet then the R4's. Cools well but I gave up about 4c Delta T.


Very nice, the double shroud side has a very purposeful look about it! +rep

Quote:



Originally Posted by *loksmith78*


thanks for the tip. what kind of screws are you using for your shroud and fan outside of the case?


The fan screws at classified as 6-32, which describes their thickness and thread. Chose the length you need by getting your ruler out or through some maths, note that most of these 6-32 screws will be sold in imperial lengths (inches). 25.4mm = 1 inch.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Well this is what they are saying http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCR...2-pr-4312.html
One because its small, doesnt make the pump work harder to move the liquid, two the liquid moves easily in it. The pump isnt like a true WC pump, so keeping tubing short, res smaller will make the pump work less.


----------



## elo820

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Well this is what they are saying http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCR...2-pr-4312.html
One because its small, doesnt make the pump work harder to move the liquid, two the liquid moves easily in it. The pump isnt like a true WC pump, so keeping tubing short, res smaller will make the pump work less.


Yeah I like the look of that one a lot acutally. Plain and simple. If you are getting this, it'll make my life easier


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Well this is what they are saying http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCR...2-pr-4312.html
One because its small, doesnt make the pump work harder to move the liquid, two the liquid moves easily in it. The pump isnt like a true WC pump, so keeping tubing short, res smaller will make the pump work less.


everyone and their mother is using that for their res mod here.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Yes, Im getting that res. Plus its cheap too! You dont need alot of liquid for the system, and a bigger res will just create more pressure for the pump. Its also small so keeping with the h50 "small size" the small res fits in fine.


----------



## dkev

I'm curious as to why everyone is getting such a small res. Why get one at all? I realize the pump wont handle bigger, but why even get one?


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dkev*


I'm curious as to why everyone is getting such a small res. Why get one at all? I realize the pump wont handle bigger, but why even get one?


why build your own computer or overclock it? It's fun









There were also some people that reported the temps went down a few C as well


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dkev*


I'm curious as to why everyone is getting such a small res. Why get one at all? I realize the pump wont handle bigger, but why even get one?


Cuz they can... I'm not









My only problem is that my connections on my Maximus board are larger than 1/4" sooooo yeah







Gonna have to adapt for that.


----------



## CaptnBB

I'm using an EK Multioption 150 rev2.0. I guess I'm not everyone. I'm using 5/16ID and 7/16OD tubing.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

The res is so the loop holds more liquid than the standard h50 loop. This allows more water to circulate so its not using a smaller amount more often cycling it through.
Plus its also there to keep air bubbles out of the pump, you can bleed it, and refill if youd like.

Quick question too: I know to use distilled water, but do you need to add any algea presenter or anything else?


----------



## looser101

Updated fan test post with tests of CoolerMaster R4.

Fan Tests


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Willhemmens: i know you used 8mmID and 10mm OD. Where did you get that, and what brand tubing? Because standard isnt the same as metric. Did you get 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" ID? I can only guess its between 1/4 and 3/8, but which ever one you choose wont have the near 10mm OD

1/4"=6.35mm
3/8"=9.52mm
1/2"=12.7mm

the tubing thats 3/8"ID only comes in 1/2"OD. The only tubing Ive found with 1/4"ID only had 3/8"OD. I dont want something to be the wrong size and when I got to fit it, the tubes are too big for the pump. And I dont want the 6mm tubes because that constricts the waterflow.

I apologize if Im flooding the fourm.


----------



## xquisit

BAMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM

I still think it would be awesome to paint my tubes fluorescent red/orange!


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Updated fan test post with tests of CoolerMaster R4.

Fan Tests

Thanks for the updates bud. Yeah, it looks like the R4's in your tests kept the CPU a hair cooler during the tests, but, didn't look like anything to go crazy about. I would imagine it may have been the extra 150 rpm's per fan, compared to the GT's. The high pitch sound from the one without the shroud is odd, might be because of the fan blade design? Also, interesting to note that I didn't see much difference in temps between the single shroud on the push vs pull side with those fans. Do you still have your GT's? If so, can you do the same thing that you did with your R4 tests (without shroud, single shroud, etc).

Thanks for taking the time to run the tests and share your results with us. +rep


----------



## Vargess

My fan died, yay.. still spins but no air.

As a temp fix until I get some good fans in, is it more important for a stronger fan on the push side or pull side? Still want 2 fans there..


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Thanks for the updates bud. Yeah, it looks like the R4's in your tests kept the CPU a hair cooler during the tests, but, didn't look like anything to go crazy about. I would imagine it may have been the extra 150 rpm's per fan, compared to the GT's. The high pitch sound from the one without the shroud is odd, might be because of the fan blade design? Also, interesting to note that I didn't see much difference in temps between the single shroud on the push vs pull side with those fans. Do you still have your GT's? If so, can you do the same thing that you did with your R4 tests (without shroud, single shroud, etc).

Thanks for taking the time to run the tests and share your results with us. +rep










I also think the sound is from the fan blades, which are curved and cupped. Interestingly enough it does it only when the pull fan is against the rad. I recommend the shroud on the pull fan just to quiet it down. Any performance differences are negligible. The GT's are still my favorites. I'll do a full test as soon as I get a chance. The SanAce is so annoying it might end up being a 38mm shroud.


----------



## enkrypt3d

Add me to the list plz









idle temps are at 35C and full load temps are at 50C!!






























doing the push pull setup and it works great!


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Willhemmens: i know you used 8mmID and 10mm OD. Where did you get that, and what brand tubing? Because standard isnt the same as metric. Did you get 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" ID? I can only guess its between 1/4 and 3/8, but which ever one you choose wont have the near 10mm OD

1/4"=6.35mm
3/8"=9.52mm
1/2"=12.7mm

the tubing thats 3/8"ID only comes in 1/2"OD. The only tubing Ive found with 1/4"ID only had 3/8"OD. I dont want something to be the wrong size and when I got to fit it, the tubes are too big for the pump. And I dont want the 6mm tubes because that constricts the waterflow.

I apologize if Im flooding the fourm.


It's 1/4" Inner Diameter and 3/8" Outer Diameter (what I got from HD).

It won't be any more "constrictive" than the stock setup with that sizing.

Think more about what the pump can push and how well your radiator can cool









I'm actually going to be switching to 3/8" INNER DIAMETER tubing though, because my Maximus Extreme board has 3/8" Outlets







So either I swap tubing, or find an adapter.

Of course, I'll do it right eventually.. But I want it now, so I'll just order what I need cuz MicroCenter doesn't have it.

Pics and Tutorial to come.


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


The res is so the loop holds more liquid than the standard h50 loop. This allows more water to circulate so its not using a smaller amount more often cycling it through.
Plus its also there to keep air bubbles out of the pump, you can bleed it, and refill if youd like.

Quick question too: I know to use distilled water, but do you need to add any algea presenter or anything else?


Ya, I know what a res is for. Considering their such small res's, the gain is minimal. No air bubbles=closed loop. No evaporation=closed loop. No maintenance=closed loop.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

The thing is the microres only comes with 3/8" and 1/2' barbs.. so the 1/4" wouldnt work. Is that correct?
Im going to get 2 shrouds, and two ultra Kaze for the rad.
But if you do an open loop correctly, you wont get air bubbles, right?
I sure hope this mod lowers temps more, right now im idling at 37C with my OC.


----------



## arbalest

*tlxxxsracer,

Here's what I'm using... (see attachment)

***edit** http://www.dangerden.com/store/1-4-t...convertor.html <-- to remedy your Resevior situation (what I'm ordering)._Does anyone else have any suggestions or know where to get something like this? I highly doubt Home Depot or Lowes has these... And my Micro Center only has 3/8" to 1/2" Danger Den adapters._


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


*tlxxxsracer,

Here's what I'm using... (see attachment)

***edit** http://www.dangerden.com/store/1-4-t...convertor.html <-- to remedy your Resevior situation (what I'm ordering)._Does anyone else have any suggestions or know where to get something like this? I highly doubt Home Depot or Lowes has these... And my Micro Center only has 3/8" to 1/2" Danger Den adapters._


where can you get that? would using just distilled water be fine?
that just means i have to get two sizes of tubing


----------



## triggs75

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
*tlxxxsracer,

Here's what I'm using... (see attachment)

***edit** http://www.dangerden.com/store/1-4-t...convertor.html <-- to remedy your Resevior situation (what I'm ordering)._Does anyone else have any suggestions or know where to get something like this? I highly doubt Home Depot or Lowes has these... And my Micro Center only has 3/8" to 1/2" Danger Den adapters._

hey you were post 2222.

thats it


----------



## arbalest

^^ Did I win something?!


----------



## arbalest

I'm going to be making a Tutorial on H50 Tube Modding in the next day or so. After I get my other tubing and a couple other things I'll start hacking it apart









My setup will be a CLOSED LOOP btw, including my Northbridge in the loop!

Stay Tuned


----------



## enkrypt3d

Quote:



Originally Posted by *enkrypt3d*











Add me to the list plz









idle temps are at 35C and full load temps are at 50C!!






























doing the push pull setup and it works great!



















can someone add me to the list? Thanks!


----------



## enkrypt3d

And how about hooking one of these up to the rad? LoL

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

My desk sits under a window I was thinking of setting up a vent that sucks in cold air from outside...

http://www.portableairshop.com/Edges...efault,pd.html
http://www.portableairshop.com/Edges...efault,pd.html


----------



## CaptnBB

Last night I tried setting up with 8mm ID tubing and had a hard time getting everything sealed up. I ot it 99% after some fiddling, but thats not good enough. My advice to anyone is to get 6mm (1/4") ID tubing and use it. I was just using generic hardware store tubing. Today I'm on the hunt for 1/4 barbs as I don't want to risk a leak.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


I'm going to be making a Tutorial on H50 Tube Modding in the next day or so. After I get my other tubing and a couple other things I'll start hacking it apart









My setup will be a CLOSED LOOP btw, *including my Northbridge* in the loop!

Stay Tuned


I'm excited, a new mod


----------



## looser101

Anyone considered using a t-line instead of a reservoir?


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CaptnBB* 
Last night I tried setting up with 8mm ID tubing and had a hard time getting everything sealed up. I ot it 99% after some fiddling, but thats not good enough. My advice to anyone is to get 6mm (1/4") ID tubing and use it. I was just using generic hardware store tubing. Today I'm on the hunt for 1/4 barbs as I don't want to risk a leak.

What res are you using?

What are the barb sizes on the h50 pump and rad?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
I'm going to be making a Tutorial on H50 Tube Modding in the next day or so. After I get my other tubing and a couple other things I'll start hacking it apart









My setup will be a CLOSED LOOP btw, including my Northbridge in the loop!

Stay Tuned

If your opening the unit up, it wont be a closed loop. Mainly because your seals wont be like the near perfect seals Corsair gets. Could be interesting though, im looking into getting a Dual rad and doing my NB, mosfets and GPU with the H50 pump.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Willhemmens: Help out about tubing size and barb size on the pump? Should i stay with my 3/8" ID and 1/2" OD? or get 1/4" ID and 3/8" OD??


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Willhemmens: Help out about tubing size and barb size on the pump? Should i stay with my 3/8" ID and 1/2" OD? or get 1/4" ID and 3/8" OD??

If your having leaking problems then drop down to smaller sizes but if all is running fine, why get smaller tubing, lowering performance. Im sticking with 3/8" ID and 1/2" OD and planning to get some more high quality stuff.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Anyone considered using a t-line instead of a reservoir?

I did but ended up getting a Res instead. A T-line would do the job but wouldnt be so easy to bleed with.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I havent built my system yet... I wanted to make sure the tubing was correct, so I can go ahead and order the parts. And know that the barbs will work with the tubing.
So zip-ties will work fine, or should i get hose clamps?


----------



## DE619

So after reading thru countless posts in this tread I decided to get this cooler for my new computer. Before I buy this I have a few questions for you guys.

1. Stock thermal paste or not?
2. Intake or not?
3. 1 fan or 2 fans?
4. Best fans for a quiet build?

also a pic of my computer:


Do you think I could fit a 2 fan setup?

Edit: also I forgot to ask about the screws needed for the 2 fan setup thanks in advance


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
If your opening the unit up, it wont be a closed loop. Mainly because your seals wont be like the near perfect seals Corsair gets. Could be interesting though, im looking into getting a Dual rad and doing my NB, mosfets and GPU with the H50 pump.

Well yeah,.. but you know what I'm saying







No res. No "T"

Of course, thats only until I get the itch


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DE619* 
So after reading thru countless posts in this tread I decided to get this cooler for my new computer. Before I buy this I have a few questions for you guys.

1. Stock thermal paste or not?
2. Intake or not?
3. 1 fan or 2 fans?
4. Best fans for a quiet build?

also a pic of my computer:


Do you think I could fit a 2 fan setup?

Edit: also I forgot to ask about the screws needed for the 2 fan setup thanks in advance

First, cable management for sure








The stock thermal paste is great. I took it off not knowing how good it was







LOL.
Youll have to do your own testing on intake vs exhaust. Each case is different.
2 fans will result in lower temperatures.
Im currently using Coolermaster R4 fans in a push pull setup. They are pretty quiet for the airflow they produce.

Sorry, didnt meant to sound mean in any way about the cable management. But it makes a case look nicer and better airflow.

Question. What hose clamps would you guys recommend me getting?
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/brmihocl7int.html
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/heclnyhoclsi1.html
Or would zip ties do the trick?
Compression fittings would be ideal, but not really in the budget to buy them all


----------



## DE619

Yeah its my first build so I'm still working on the cables lol. But thanks for the help on my next paycheck I'll see if I can get the H50 with the fans you mentioned.


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DE619*


So after reading thru countless posts in this tread I decided to get this cooler for my new computer. Before I buy this I have a few questions for you guys.

1. Stock thermal paste or not?
2. Intake or not?
3. 1 fan or 2 fans?
4. Best fans for a quiet build?

also a pic of my computer:


Do you think I could fit a 2 fan setup?

Edit: also I forgot to ask about the screws needed for the 2 fan setup thanks in advance



1. I'm gona skip for someone else to answer.
2. Not? Try exhaust. You have a GFX with a air handler that blows hot air out the rear of you case. Plus you have no top exhaust fan/s.
3. I say 2 + a shroud. (⇇Fan⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Fan) Arrows are point the direction of airflow. 
4. Again I'm gona skip for someone else to answer.
5. Add a extra intake in your 5.25" drive bays. I see you have 3 open, you could even get away with 2. 
6. Add a fan controller. (optional)
7. Check out the *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink* for more drive bay intake and shroud ideas.

Check out what I did:


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


I did but ended up getting a Res instead. A T-line would do the job but wouldnt be so easy to bleed with.


No, thats not true.. I aint here to drama around. I just aint agree. I'm told T-lines give better performance than reservoirs, IMO.

the T-LINE running my wc looop rig with fillport. I love it!


----------



## DE619

n00b question time: whats a shroud and how would it help?


----------



## Killhouse

Its a spacer between your fan and radiator, it is airtight so you dont lose any air out of the side but improves temperatures by neutralizing the "dead spot" at the centre of your fan, allowing the radiator to be hit more evenly by the incoming air. Normally you would put one on the push side of the setup for best results.

Hope that helps









EDIT: the best way to make one is to take an old 120mm fan and rip out the middle, so that you're just left with the centre of the fan.


----------



## allenkane

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DE619*


n00b question time: whats a shroud and how would it help?


It helps because it get lessens the effect of the deadspot (motor) of your fan.

Basically you'd cut the guts out of a fan and put it in front of your rad, and then the fan. http://www.overclock.net/8076685-post1321.html


----------



## DE619

OK thanks guys, I don't know if I can use the shroud option since I'm pressed for space. I will however add that 5.25 bay fan for added circulation in my rig I just need to figure out how to arrange my wires a bit first.


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DE619*


So after reading thru countless posts in this tread I decided to get this cooler for my new computer. Before I buy this I have a few questions for you guys.

1. Stock thermal paste or not?
2. Intake or not?
3. 1 fan or 2 fans?
4. Best fans for a quiet build?

also a pic of my computer:


Do you think I could fit a 2 fan setup?

Edit: also I forgot to ask about the screws needed for the 2 fan setup thanks in advance


1. stock for sure
2. exhaust
3 2 fans with shrouds.
4. Slipstream med speed.

All you need to do is divide the 4 screws. 2 on each side. More then enough for a snug fit. If you use shrouds your gonna need longer screws. Get 6/32" headless rods that are 2.5" long and then just use nuts.
Also, move your hdd down a notch. All the heat is on top of the hdd. Move it down one and you'll get better air flow across it.


----------



## Acroma

I'm ordering this and the Obsidian 800D when I get my W2. Can't wait! I'll also be getting the new Fermi when it comes out.


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DE619*


OK thanks guys, I don't know if I can use the shroud option since I'm pressed for space. I will however add that 5.25 bay fan for added circulation in my rig I just need to figure out how to arrange my wires a bit first.


Mount it out side your case. I have mine mounted on both sides but you get the point.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DE619* 
So after reading thru countless posts in this tread I decided to get this cooler for my new computer. Before I buy this I have a few questions for you guys.

1. Stock thermal paste or not?
2. Intake or not?
3. 1 fan or 2 fans?
4. Best fans for a quiet build?

also a pic of my computer:


Do you think I could fit a 2 fan setup?

Edit: also I forgot to ask about the screws needed for the 2 fan setup thanks in advance

Definitely a great choice in a CPU Cooler!

1. Stock Paste is awesome, it's Shin Etsu!
2. Case dependent. However, exhaust seems to be the best choice.
3. 2 Fans if you can afford to do it.
4. Best fans on a radiator, while remaining quiet: Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
5. Add a extra intake in your 5.25" drive bays. I see you have 3 open, you could even get away with 2.

If I may, you might know the answer to this. I asked in a different section of the forum, but, nobody replied yet. Hopefully, you or someone in here can help answer this for me.

---
So I've been digging around and was wondering if this would work.

Using a Scythe KAMA BAY PLUS mounted in the front which holds a 120mm fan and takes up 3x 5.25" bays.

Then mounting a Bitspower 120mm to 140mm Fan Adapter to the KAMA BAY PLUS.

Followed by mounting a 140x140x25mm Yate Loon 1000rpm Blue LED Fan to the Bitspower 120mm to 140mm adapter.
---

Thoughts, concerns, or will this not work at all?


----------



## enkrypt3d

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
If I may, you might know the answer to this. I asked in a different section of the forum, but, nobody replied yet. Hopefully, you or someone in here can help answer this for me.

---
So I've been digging around and was wondering if this would work.

Using a Scythe KAMA BAY PLUS mounted in the front which holds a 120mm fan and takes up 3x 5.25" bays.

Then mounting a Bitspower 120mm to 140mm Fan Adapter to the KAMA BAY PLUS.

Followed by mounting a 140x140x25mm Yate Loon 1000rpm Blue LED Fan to the Bitspower 120mm to 140mm adapter.
---

Thoughts, concerns, or will this not work at all?

I can understand the first part but you lose me when you do the tubing and the adapter from 120mm to 140mm... why would u want to do that? It would be cool to have a pass thru tubing from the front to the back that connects the radiator but wouldn't you want to keep it all 120mm since the rad is 120mm?


----------



## DE619

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
Mount it out side your case. I have mine mounted on both sides but you get the point.









So you setup is <=Fan,shroud,rad,shroud,fan<=?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *enkrypt3d* 
I can understand the first part but you lose me when you do the tubing and the adapter from 120mm to 140mm... why would u want to do that? It would be cool to have a pass thru tubing from the front to the back that connects the radiator but wouldn't you want to keep it all 120mm since the rad is 120mm?









Ahh yeah I should have explained the reasoning. Basically, my case has a 140mm fan in the front, located at the very bottom. I wanted to add a 2nd 140mm fan right above it in the 3 x 5.25" bays above to bring in more cool air into the case. I'm going to leave the radiator in the back of the case (as exhaust), but, figured the more cool air i can bring in, the better the temps will be.

The other thought process was, if I cant get the 120-to-140mm adapter to work, so I can mount the 2nd 140mm fan inside the case, then I will just leave it at 120mm and try mounting the H50 towards the front of the case (as intake this time) and see what kind of temp differences I see.

But, preferrably, I'd like to go route #1.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
If I may, you might know the answer to this. I asked in a different section of the forum, but, nobody replied yet. Hopefully, you or someone in here can help answer this for me.

---
So I've been digging around and was wondering if this would work.

Using a Scythe KAMA BAY PLUS mounted in the front which holds a 120mm fan and takes up 3x 5.25" bays.

Then mounting a Bitspower 120mm to 140mm Fan Adapter to the KAMA BAY PLUS.

Followed by mounting a 140x140x25mm Yate Loon 1000rpm Blue LED Fan to the Bitspower 120mm to 140mm adapter.
---

Thoughts, concerns, or will this not work at all?

I played with that adapter and it's a pass for me. You won't get the performance you think you may.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
I played with that adapter and it's a pass for me. You won't get the performance you think you may.

Ahh okay. Well, do you know if it would hook up together and fit, regardless of the performance? What if did the KAMA BAY PLUS w/ a 120mm version of the Blue LED Yate Loon then?


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
Ahh okay. You think it would be best to just do the KAMA BAY PLUS w/ a 120mm version of the Blue LED Yate Loon then?

I see you are using it strictly as a fan mount? If that's the case then it should be fine. As an adapter to adapt a 140mm to the rad it is fail. At least so far. My Noiseblockers should show up this week, then the game may change.

Btw I have one of those blue 140mm Yate Loons at the front of my case. It quiet and has good air flow.


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DE619* 
So you setup is <=Fan,shroud,rad,shroud,fan<=?

Yes.


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
If I may, you might know the answer to this. I asked in a different section of the forum, but, nobody replied yet. Hopefully, you or someone in here can help answer this for me.

---
So I've been digging around and was wondering if this would work.

Using a Scythe KAMA BAY PLUS mounted in the front which holds a 120mm fan and takes up 3x 5.25" bays.

Then mounting a Bitspower 120mm to 140mm Fan Adapter to the KAMA BAY PLUS.

Followed by mounting a 140x140x25mm Yate Loon 1000rpm Blue LED Fan to the Bitspower 120mm to 140mm adapter.
---

Thoughts, concerns, or will this not work at all?

KAMA BAY PLUS has a real thin fan the
KAMA BAY has a normal size fan and its discontinued and more expensive


----------



## looser101

You can try just stuffing a piece of foam between the sides of the fan and the drive bay sides. High density foam should have enough friction to keep it in place. Also seen plastic tubing (crushed between the sides) keeping a rad in place.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
KAMA BAY PLUS has a real thin fan the
KAMA BAY has a normal size fan and its discontinued and more expensive

Yeah, I was just going to rip out the thin fan that came with the PLUS version and not even use it at all. I just wanted something to provide the framework for me to mount the adapter to so that I could then mount a 2nd 140mm fan to the front. Figured having a total of 2x 140mm (1000rpm) fans drawing in cool air would be a nice edition to helping keep the H50 cooler as it exhausts the air out the back. Also, looking to order 2x Gentle Typhoon 1850's w/ a TFC Xtender 30mm shroud to replace my stock fans on the H50. Can't wait, just wanted to get confirmation on the 140mm fan for the front before I placed the order.


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Yeah, I was just going to rip out the thin fan that came with the PLUS version and not even use it at all. I just wanted something to provide the framework for me to mount the adapter to so that I could then mount a 2nd 140mm fan to the front. Figured having a total of 2x 140mm (1000rpm) fans drawing in cool air would be a nice edition to helping keep the H50 cooler as it exhausts the air out the back. Also, looking to order 2x Gentle Typhoon 1850's w/ a TFC Xtender 30mm shroud to replace my stock fans on the H50. Can't wait, just wanted to get confirmation on the 140mm fan for the front before I placed the order.


Not sure you'll be happy with the gentle typhoons. R4's kick ass with this rad. They are a little noisy though, without shrouds. Otherwise I would try the med speed slipstreams. I switched to those and love them. They have great performance and low noise. The main issue is going to be your delta. The difference between idle and load temps. With lower rpm fans, your gonna see a higher delta. For me it is 9c. So going from the R4's to the slipstreams I lost 3c on my delta. Still livable though.


----------



## DE619

Also dkev what are your temps like since I'm most likely gonna mimic your setup?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dkev*


Not sure you'll be happy with the gentle typhoons. R4's kick ass with this rad. They are a little noisy though, without shrouds. Otherwise I would try the med speed slipstreams. I switched to those and love them. They have great performance and low noise. The main issue is going to be your delta. The difference between idle and load temps. With lower rpm fans, your gonna see a higher delta. For me it is 9c. So going from the R4's to the slipstreams I lost 3c on my delta. Still livable though.


Hmm. Well, The other option I could do I guess is move everything to the front, so it all fits inside:

R4 <|- 30mm Shroud <|- H50 <|- 30mm Shroud <|- R4 <|- KAMA BAY PLUS


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Yeah, I was just going to rip out the thin fan that came with the PLUS version and not even use it at all. I just wanted something to provide the framework for me to mount the adapter to so that I could then mount a 2nd 140mm fan to the front. Figured having a total of 2x 140mm (1000rpm) fans drawing in cool air would be a nice edition to helping keep the H50 cooler as it exhausts the air out the back. Also, looking to order 2x Gentle Typhoon 1850's w/ a TFC Xtender 30mm shroud to replace my stock fans on the H50. Can't wait, just wanted to get confirmation on the 140mm fan for the front before I placed the order.


Stick with those GT's (you can thank me later







). Starting to think this is the way to go:








http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25682
TFC extender is rounded inside and so is the Bitspower 140mm adapter. Wondering how much difference there would be if you could flow some air through the corners of the rad usually covered by the fan frame or shroud or adapter. Fans are round, rads are square.

@xmisery: something like this?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Stick with those GT's (you can thank me later







). Starting to think this is the way to go:








http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25682
TFC extender is rounded inside and so is the Bitspower 140mm adapter. Wondering how much difference there would be if you could flow some air through the corners of the rad usually covered by the fan frame or shroud or adapter. Fans are round, rads are square.


You raise an interesting point. The TFC Xtender shroud is rounded on the inside, blocking airflow to the outer 4 corners of the radiator, while this airbox is square inside, allowing air to reach the entire radiator. Anyone have experience with either of these or know what would be better?

BTW: Yeah, that pic you just posted with everything up front. Is that yours? How do you like it that way, compared to running everything in the back?


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


You raise an interesting point. The TFC Xtender shroud is rounded on the inside, blocking airflow to the outer 4 corners of the radiator, while this airbox is square inside, allowing air to reach the entire radiator. Anyone have experience with either of these or know what would be better?

BTW: Yeah, that pic you just posted with everything up front. Is that yours? How do you like it that way, compared to running everything in the back?


Yup. It works for me. You can look at my first post in this thread for more info.

Here I'll save you some time: http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83574


----------



## Rick Arter

The TFC extender is a nice idea and so is mounting it in the front 5.25 inch bays. That is way to go since most cases will allow this to an extent. Just did some more testing on mine and am going to swap tubes again and get some proper coolant and red dye.

As far as the performance of the R4s they seem nice but better ones are out there. Maybe if I test with shrouds it will change my mind.


----------



## ccomputertek

YES ! this http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25682 is exactly what I was talking about,except I made a mistake and called it an icebox instead of an air box.

Notice they made it longer than 25mm and longer than 38mm @ 42mm ? All you guys with 25mm shrouds are wasting your time, and I said this before, 25mm just isn't enough to make a big difference or get rid of the dead spot.All you guys who have the 25mm shrouds weather it be an empty fan shell or a real shroud, record your temps and then get the air box and try again, then you will see the difference a shroud really makes....

I'd hate to sound like a troll, but when your right.... what can I say.. your right









38mm or longer with the shroud, or don't even bother.and if you don't have the space to allow for that, again, don't even bother, it won't be worth your time.

+ Rep


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rick Arter*


The TFC extender is a nice idea and so is mounting it in the front 5.25 inch bays. That is way to go since most cases will allow this to an extent. Just did some more testing on mine and am going to swap tubes again and get some proper coolant and red dye.

As far as the performance of the R4s they seem nice but better ones are out there. Maybe if I test with shrouds it will change my mind.


You might want to check out looser101's post a few days ago. He posted some results of his R4 testing w/ shrouds here, along with Gentle Typhoon's and a San Ace.


----------



## arbalest

Here's a tidbit of what I've *figured out* with my tubing mod.

I've discovered the easiest way (I think) to use *3/8"ID-1/2"OD* Tubing _*WITHOUT WORRY*_ of Leakage, all while keeping it sexy looking!









1) Use 1/4"ID Tubing as a *SPACE FILLER* over the stock barbs.

2) Use 3/8"ID Tubing *OVER the OUTSIDE* of the Inside (1/4"ID) tubing to form a *LEAK PROOF SEAL* combined with your choice of clamping.

See Pics...

*note* Full tutorial will be coming soon on how to Tube Mod the H50 AND include your Northbridge (should you choose) into your loop!

~Arbalest


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DE619* 
Also dkev what are your temps like since I'm most likely gonna mimic your setup?

21 idle and 29 under load. But your not gonna get anywhere near that with an I7. For you I would recommend R4's or high speed slipstreams. Don't use anything under 1600 rpm. 2K rpm would be best. I7's just get too hot to monkey around. From what others seem to get, I'd say for you 40ish idle and 60ish load.


----------



## Martin B

I'm very interested if, in general, everyone is using a 3 pin to molex adapter and connecting the pump directly to the PSU or is using a case fan 3 pin connection to the MB the preferred route? My thinking is that the pump needs to be working at 100% so there is no need for speed control. Is that right? Comments are welcome - my 1st build is going to start soon!

BTW - the comments on fan optimization with the radiator are a blast. Excellent ideas on getting more out of a great product.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Martin B*


I'm very interested if, in general, everyone is using a 3 pin to molex adapter and connecting the pump directly to the PSU or is using a case fan 3 pin connection to the MB the preferred route? My thinking is that the pump needs to be working at 100% so there is no need for speed control. Is that right? Comments are welcome - my 1st build is going to start soon!

BTW - the comments on fan optimization with the radiator are a blast. Excellent ideas on getting more out of a great product.


Hi Martin. That's exactly right. You should have the pump working at 100% all the time. You can do this by either plugging it directly into the PSU or you can plug the 3-pin connector to the motherboard, just remember to go into BIOS and set it to manual control, and adjust it to 100%. Looking forward to seeing some pics when you get it all hooked up!


----------



## xquisit

Do you guys think my CM R4 should be replace with some UK3000s?

I could replace my stock 2xintakes with these 2x CM R4s, and add the Ultra Kaze 3000's to my push/pull set up.

Picture with the LEDs off

















Picture of my airflow:


----------



## sexybastard

Just to help out those who are modding their H50 and going with the fatter tubing.

I personally don't think it will really lower temps buy any measurable gains... i mean the rad and block use 1/4inch barbs and using larger diameter tubes isn't going to change this fact.

here is a very interesting thread on the impact of the tubing size. difference between 1/4inch and 1/2inch was less then 1c.

So in my opinion you might save yourself some trouble by sticking with 1/4inch since its the right size for the h50 and you can order 1/4inch barbs for the res for less then $5.

Just some food for thought.

edit: also here a video of my modded h50 fully finished and installed in my case.


YouTube- Corsair H50 Res Mod 100% Finished


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
Here's a tidbit of what I've *figured out* with my tubing mod.

I've discovered the easiest way (I think) to use *3/8"ID-1/2"OD* Tubing _*WITHOUT WORRY*_ of Leakage, all while keeping it sexy looking!









1) Use 1/4"ID Tubing as a *SPACE FILLER* over the stock barbs.

2) Use 3/8"ID Tubing *OVER the OUTSIDE* of the Inside (1/4"ID) tubing to form a *LEAK PROOF SEAL* combined with your choice of clamping.

See Pics...

*note* Full tutorial will be coming soon on how to Tube Mod the H50 AND include your Northbridge (should you choose) into your loop!

~Arbalest


I recomend those types of clamps on any water cooling set up. I've never had a leak using those.


----------



## TwistedTransistor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


Here's a tidbit of what I've *figured out* with my tubing mod.

I've discovered the easiest way (I think) to use *3/8"ID-1/2"OD* Tubing _*WITHOUT WORRY*_ of Leakage, all while keeping it sexy looking!









1) Use 1/4"ID Tubing as a *SPACE FILLER* over the stock barbs.

2) Use 3/8"ID Tubing *OVER the OUTSIDE* of the Inside (1/4"ID) tubing to form a *LEAK PROOF SEAL* combined with your choice of clamping.

See Pics...

*note* Full tutorial will be coming soon on how to Tube Mod the H50 AND include your Northbridge (should you choose) into your loop!

~Arbalest


Doint this mod on rad is quite easy, the problem will make how to fit on the barbs on the pump since the space between the two barbs are small and using 1/4 and then 1/2 will not leave u space for clamps or not even a zip ite. There is just no way u can fit them there. I have already tried using 1/2.


----------



## l4n b0y

NICE WORK sexybastard love your case


----------



## Hapz

add me i got one last week, more than impressed with it


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TwistedTransistor* 
Doint this mod on rad is quite easy, the problem will make how to fit on the barbs on the pump since the space between the two barbs are small and using 1/4 and then 1/2 will not leave u space for clamps or not even a zip ite. There is just no way u can fit them there. I have already tried using 1/2.

Did you even read what I said?!?!?

LOOK AT THE PICS AND READ!!!


----------



## TwistedTransistor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


Did you even read what I said?!?!?

LOOK AT THE PICS AND READ!!!










U are really some piece of the work. I did read and cant wait for ur mod, and also to c how r u gonna clamp those 3/8 - 1/2 tubing into pump over 1/4.


----------



## 10speedr

Mod #2


----------



## elo820

Cant wait for a tutorial to come! I still confused by the many different ways people are doing this mod. argh so noob of me


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *10speedr* 
Mod #2


Can't wait.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TwistedTransistor* 
U are really some piece of the work. I did read and cant wait for ur mod, and also to c how r u gonna clamp those 3/8 - 1/2 tubing into pump over 1/4.

LOL. Ahhhh, I see what you're saying.

No worries. I'm going to trial and error tonight so we'll see. My apologies









I've been dealing with insane people all day at work so you have to forgive me for my brain farts!


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
Do you guys think my CM R4 should be replace with some UK3000s?

I could replace my stock 2xintakes with these 2x CM R4s, and add the Ultra Kaze 3000's to my push/pull set up.

Picture with the LEDs off

















Picture of my airflow:









I just want to add something to my post, because it seems I can't hit 4GHz stable.. and still don't know what the problem is..

Could it be TIM was added too much? Artic 7 was used, I believe that's what it was.
The person who applied the TIM:
1)put it on the CPU
2)scraped it flat with a business card
3)applied extra TIM on the card, to the H50
4)Computers been built for 1-2months, is there a break in period..or was too much added..or was the technique wrong? (He has a h50 as well, but this doesn't mean he is right about his actions)

Could it be there is too much bending in my tubes (I usually don't quote pictures, but in this case I want you to see 'em)?
Could it be my fans aren't efficient enough to move static pressure out of my case?
Should I purchase the Ultra Kaze 3000's, and add a fan shroud (or two)?

If you have experience with the 965BE or similar CPU, I can add specifics on what's going on.


----------



## maximus20895

Wohoo! I just bought mine today at Bestbuy for $59.99 - a $20 gift card. I just have to wait to get my TIM and i'm all set.


----------



## Capwn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maximus20895*


Wohoo! I just bought mine today at Bestbuy for $59.99 - a $20 gift card. I just have to wait to get my TIM and i'm all set.


Dood the TIM that comes on the H50 is really good. better than most. I would go ahead and slap that sucker in if I were you.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Capwn*


Dood the TIM that comes on the H50 is really good. better than most. I would go ahead and slap that sucker in if I were you.


Agreed - it is top quality paste. Go wild and install that puppy


----------



## arbalest

twistedtransistor -- +1 to you









I was totally not even thinking about that, as I actually did most of my disassembling last night in a tylenol pm induced state! lol -- Good catch on your part.

I just did a test and yeah, big problem... BUT I do have a couple ideas to keep it the seal like I want, AND keep it pretty (which is a BIG thing to me), so we'll see...

I'm definitely not posting up anything short of what I started out to do which is the H50 Tube Mod w/ NB in the loop, so I might be ordering a couple parts from Danger Den that the Micro Center doesn't carry in stock.









Thanks for the catch man!

~Arbalest


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Agreed - it is top quality paste. Go wild and install that puppy


















AGREE, for here as well







...for i have just install'd to "leak test" for a while,
and temp's so far = 28*@idle and 42*@load [Blend P95]







using the stock(oem) Tim...
so far, i am quite pleased







. . . [BUT, i *DO* have* MX3* ready ..







...]

.....this being setup with <<fan<<shroud<<case<<H50<<fan [exhaust]with fan's been replaced
with CM R-4's (69cfm @ 2000rpm) ..... going to try with whole setup in the 5.25 area 
as intake & make rear as exhaust (fan only) later . . . .
[thinking of another shroud between H50 and fan, also..].....

mr. Charles .









.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

So then the best way as far as tubing goes is get 1/4" ID 3/8" OD and buy 2 1/4" barbs for the res? Im going to order everything this week, and before I do the mod Im going to try and set my res as an exhaust on the rear fan and see what temps I get. Then add in my front intake fan again. 
Im gonna get the micro res, 2 of these as shrouds http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/blmico.html
anti kink outer tubing, and 1 Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000 (later get a second one) and use zipties I already have. Anything else you guys recommend me getting so I can get everything from one place at the same time?
What do you guys think of the shroud?theyre cheap and figured better than wasting a good fan or buying a used fan for more than that much


----------



## mr-Charles

tlxxsracer.......just my







. . . . i went over to a "PC-recycle" shop/store and gotten a hold of 4(ea) for $3.00 120mm fans, pretty much a box of you choose & i didn't care if they work'd or not......cut out the fan-portion and that's my shroud's = 1" thickness ; ...just as the same thickness for your showing of at Sidewinder's "Shroud's" . . . . .

mr. Charles .









.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Yah, I dont have one of those nearby worth driving to, closest is about an hour away.. Not worth it.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Yah, I dont have one of those nearby worth driving to, closest is about an hour away.. Not worth it.

...understandable . . . for what you are showing from Sidewinder, look's to be a good deal at that......









mr. Charles .









.


----------



## pez

Question for the club. Now that this kit includes mounting for AM2+/AM3, would it be worth it for me to go from my Xiggy 1283S to this? Even at retail price? I have a high speed yate that could go on the rad for this, so a high speed fan wouldn't be a problem.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Well what sucks.. I just found out its 8$ for shipping for 2, its 14$ total So that makes the decision harder..
so with everything total, with fan, shrouds, barbs, res, and anti kink coil its like 67$. Can anyone help find where to get things cheaper? So far everything is on performance pc


----------



## wire

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Question for the club. Now that this kit includes mounting for AM2+/AM3, would it be worth it for me to go from my Xiggy 1283S to this? Even at retail price? I have a high speed yate that could go on the rad for this, so a high speed fan wouldn't be a problem.


I had a Xiggy 1283S and the H50 dropped my load temps ~8C and idle temps about the same.

Also, FRYs has it for $49.99 (in-store only) and Best Buy has it for $59.99 again.

EDIT: My load temps dropped a little more like 10C maybe a couple degrees more.


----------



## Capwn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Question for the club. Now that this kit includes mounting for AM2+/AM3, would it be worth it for me to go from my Xiggy 1283S to this? Even at retail price? I have a high speed yate that could go on the rad for this, so a high speed fan wouldn't be a problem.


IMO . yes. I really cant imagine someone being unhappy with this product. Its just fantastic


----------



## maximus20895

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Capwn*


Dood the TIM that comes on the H50 is really good. better than most. I would go ahead and slap that sucker in if I were you.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Agreed - it is top quality paste. Go wild and install that puppy










So you guys don't think it would help if I used another TIM on top of the stock TIM?


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wire*


I had a Xiggy 1283S and the H50 dropped my load temps ~8C and idle temps about the same.

Also, FRYs has it for $49.99 (in-store only) and Best Buy has it for $59.99 again.

EDIT: My load temps dropped a little more like 10C maybe a couple degrees more.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Capwn*


IMO . yes. I really cant imagine someone being unhappy with this product. Its just fantastic


Yeah, it's caught my attention quite a bit. That deal will probably be gone by the time I'm able to purchase it, but I might still pick it up at my local Best Buy. No Fry's here though :/.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maximus20895*


So you guys don't think it would help if I used another TIM on top of the stock TIM?


I'm curious of this, too. Using this over something like OCZ Freeze would be better?


----------



## TwistedTransistor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


LOL. Ahhhh, I see what you're saying.

No worries. I'm going to trial and error tonight so we'll see. My apologies









I've been dealing with insane people all day at work so you have to forgive me for my brain farts!


Told u so









Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


twistedtransistor -- +1 to you









I was totally not even thinking about that, as I actually did most of my disassembling last night in a tylenol pm induced state! lol -- Good catch on your part.

I just did a test and yeah, big problem... BUT I do have a couple ideas to keep it the seal like I want, AND keep it pretty (which is a BIG thing to me), so we'll see...

I'm definitely not posting up anything short of what I started out to do which is the H50 Tube Mod w/ NB in the loop, so I might be ordering a couple parts from Danger Den that the Micro Center doesn't carry in stock.









Thanks for the catch man!

~Arbalest


No problem man, I actualy tried to do the same thing u did, and no go, I just got back home from I friend, went there to do his H50 res mod for him. We went with 6ID - 8OD. That size fits the best to the pump barbs. WE also went to home depo and bought two barbs same size as pum with 1/4 head thread for msres.

Cant wait to see u mod man.

On the other hadn, I did with 8ID - 10OD, and I have no idea how I was able to secure that thing so there is no leaks. Today, at my friends house I was unable to recreate what I did with mine H50. Who knows what I did. lol.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maximus20895*


So you guys don't think it would help if I *used another TIM on top of the stock TIM?*



"ON TOP"... what u talking about Willis? Dont mix em man, use one or the other...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*

I'm curious of this, too. Using this over something like OCZ Freeze would be better?


The stock TIM (Shin Etsu) on the pump head and MX-3 (using now) are virtually the same. If you waiting to buy something, get some Indigo Xtreme... thats about the best and most expensive ATM.

For those who have not seen this..









Ive just order some Shin Etsu to reseat my pump head and GPU...


----------



## maximus20895

Yea, I'm thinking about getting some of that. Would it be okay to go ahead and install it now and reinstall it when the Indigo Xtreme comes in?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maximus20895*


Yea, I'm thinking about getting some of that. Would it be okay to go ahead and install it now and reinstall it when the Indigo Xtreme comes in?


Totally... that shouldnt be a problem.


----------



## maximus20895

Well ****. Now, I am going to have to do this tonight and be tired for school tomorrow. I'm not really patient.

Also, so if i was going to use another TIM I would have to take off the stock TIM and it would be pointless to get anything worse than what is on it currently and the next best thing is Indigo Xtreme. ???


----------



## xquisit

I have a queston.. are my R4s doing the job for my push/pull setup? I have two stock intake fans, and I sure would like to use the R4s and replace then.

If I were to do such a thing, what would you recommend?

Educated Guess: Ultra Kaze 3000s, Delta fans wold be great

What do you guys recommend? Thanks

& I feel as if I might want to reseat my H50, but what TIM would you recommend me buying (newegg)?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maximus20895*


Well ****. Now, I am going to have to do this tonight and be tired for school tomorrow. I'm not really patient.

Also, so if i was going to use another TIM I would have to take off the stock TIM and it would be pointless to get anything worse than what is on it currently and the next best thing is Indigo Xtreme. ???


Steady on tiger... dont rush the installation, it can be tricky. If its not done right, your temps will be all over the shop. Take you time, its not going anywhere.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *xquisit*

& I feel as if I might want to reseat my H50, but what TIM would you recommend me buying (newegg)?


MX 3, Shin Estu (stock) or Indigo Extreme - see the above posts.

Fans? Ill leave that to someone who knows better than I


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Steady on tiger... dont rush the installation, it can be tricky. If its not done right, your temps will be all over the shop. Take you time, its not going anywhere.









MX 3, Shin Estu (stock) or Indigo Extreme - see the above posts.

Fans? Ill leave that to someone who knows better than I









Thanks! +rep/// How long does it take for the Shin Estu to break in? (what about the others?)

About the fans:

I heard I need fans that move static pressure well, and I'm not sure the R4s do that efficiently.

Can someone link me to some fans sold online? It seems newegg is making a killer off these fans... none of them offer free shipping


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
How long does it take for the Shin Estu to break in? (what about the others?)

The only one that has a cure time is AS5 (?200+ heat cycles)... everything else is good to go, soon as applied.

There might be some fan info here:

Quote:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...0-updated.html


----------



## maximus20895

Yea, the installation was a bit tricky. I couldn't find the right screw and I was like uh how does this screw go through the fan and into the rad? I had the wrong one.

I just started it and my temps idle just turned on are 33-36 and right when I started prim95 they went up to 47ish.

I hope that's good. :/


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maximus20895*


Yea, the installation was a bit tricky. I couldn't find the right screw and I was like uh how does this screw go through the fan and into the rad? I had the wrong one.

I just started it and my temps idle just turned on are 33-36 and right when I started prim95 they went up to 47ish.

I hope that's good. :/


Its fun!

Assuming your not OCed, thats fine. If you are OC,, thats amazing!

Most people have ther rad in an exhaust configuration for better temps. Once you have that under control, have a look into adding a shroud to get your temps even lower...

Quote:



http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...0-updated.html


----------



## pez

Wow, comes with Shin Etsu already on it? Wow. Go Corsair.


----------



## xquisit

Ok.. so I just realized I have Artic Silver 5 under my H50, and my computer was built on December 4th 2009.

I can't even get 3.9ghz stable..well I can when I just OC while moving the multiplier..

Stressful, and I'm wondering.. what if it's my AS5?

What do you guys think? Could it also be my R4s, are they not moving static pressure efficiently? Should I buy some new fans? And add some fan shrouds?

This has to be a heat issue... maybe my CPU isn't the best?


----------



## dctokyo

Hi guys, new member to the Official Corsair H50 Hydro Series Owners Club


----------



## PCSarge

i've been building and rebuilding my pc for years,but most of what you guys have done i've never seen in my life, mind you, i'm not as crazy, i have a simple set-up, that goes something like this:

ASUS P5N-D motherboard (replaced northbridge heatsink with a 5000 rpm vantec fan)
Intel Core 2 Duo E7400 Processor O.C'D to 3.2ghz (stock is 2.8ghz)
a 250GB Western Digital Raptor HDD (Spindle speed 10,000 RPM's)
Nvidia GeForce 9600 GSO Graphics Card with stock cooling
i was a cheapass and bought an on-sale ultra e-torque mid tower case
and ofc, recently, i upgraded from 4 to 8gb of pc6400 ram
and i also, two days ago, bought and added a corsair H50

which i get decent readings from, but it doesnt make sense, that it jumps 10 degrees almost instantly when i open something....the room my pc is in is in a basement....its like a giant refridgerator down here....current temp of this room is 15C cpu at idle is at 37C with push/pull exhaust set up on my h50, with 2 2100 rpm 120mm fans, there is also a 3rd as an intake on the front of the case.
if you have any idea why this jumps suddenly, then drops instantly, let me know ( i also feel little to no heat flowing out the back, even after hours of operation) i know the pump works, i have it on a fan controller that has attachment plugs for motherboard readings, my pump constantly sits between 1450 and 1500 rpms at full power. if this isnt normal, tell me now


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xquisit*


Thanks! +rep/// How long does it take for the Shin Estu to break in? (what about the others?)

About the fans:

I heard I need fans that move static pressure well, and I'm not sure the R4s do that efficiently.

Can someone link me to some fans sold online? It seems newegg is making a killer off these fans... none of them offer free shipping










2000rpm R4's perform extremely well and have very good static pressure, I would leave them alone.
Fan tests


----------



## mypcisugly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Wow, comes with Shin Etsu already on it? Wow. Go Corsair.



yes i know very cool of them to use it.. I hope this starts a trend .
We could get lucky and Ati and Nvidia will start to use quality tim and due the same


----------



## arbalest

TwistedTransistor,

I figured the problem out







I'll post pics later if I'm able to work on anything today/tonight!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
i've been building and rebuilding my pc for years,but most of what you guys have done i've never seen in my life, mind you, i'm not as crazy, i have a simple set-up, that goes something like this:

ASUS P5N-D motherboard (replaced northbridge heatsink with a 5000 rpm vantec fan)
Intel Core 2 Duo E7400 Processor O.C'D to 3.2ghz (stock is 2.8ghz)
a 250GB Western Digital Raptor HDD (Spindle speed 10,000 RPM's)
Nvidia GeForce 9600 GSO Graphics Card with stock cooling
i was a cheapass and bought an on-sale ultra e-torque mid tower case
and ofc, recently, i upgraded from 4 to 8gb of pc6400 ram
and i also, two days ago, bought and added a corsair H50

which i get decent readings from, but it doesnt make sense, that it jumps 10 degrees almost instantly when i open something....the room my pc is in is in a basement....its like a giant refridgerator down here....current temp of this room is 15C cpu at idle is at 37C with push/pull exhaust set up on my h50, with 2 2100 rpm 120mm fans, there is also a 3rd as an intake on the front of the case.
if you have any idea why this jumps suddenly, then drops instantly, let me know ( i also feel little to no heat flowing out the back, even after hours of operation) i know the pump works, i have it on a fan controller that has attachment plugs for motherboard readings, my pump constantly sits between 1450 and 1500 rpms at full power. if this isnt normal, tell me now

Nice system you have there. I can tell you for a start that 1450-1500 RPM is correct.

Your problem sounds like it could be one of two things. You either need to remount your waterblock, making sure that you've used the correct screws and that the thermal paste is evenly applied, then make sure you tighten each screw in turn, to apply even pressure to the CPU.

Or, what sounds more likely, is that you have some sort of sensor problem. Try using some other monitoring software and see if you see the same jump.

Your idle temps seem quite high, even for an intel chip... this makes me thing a remount might be in order.


----------



## PCSarge

ill try that tonight, i have some ocz freeze left over that i can use to reseat, my only thing is.... should i clean all of the paste completely off before i mount it again?( i know i sound noob asking that) that and the fact that, since i'm in a mid tower,and i have very limited space (if i sent pictures youd laugh at how close my push/pull setup is to the pump, i give it a good 1 1/2 inch clearance if i'm lucky) though i dont see that being bad, as its an exhaust push/pull not an intake

i had also figured temps were high, was only 3 degrees under stock intel cooler

what also worries me, is it jumps over 50C under load


----------



## arbalest

Would anyone care to enlighten me as to what the Dye/Coolant Ratio is? I'm planning on getting my H50 going tonight, and since it's closed loop with no "T" or Reservoir I want to get it right the first time


----------



## nseaton1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
ill try that tonight, i have some ocz freeze left over that i can use to reseat, my only thing is.... should i clean all of the paste completely off before i mount it again?( i know i sound noob asking that) that and the fact that, since i'm in a mid tower,and i have very limited space (if i sent pictures youd laugh at how close my push/pull setup is to the pump, i give it a good 1 1/2 inch clearance if i'm lucky) though i dont see that being bad, as its an exhaust push/pull not an intake

i had also figured temps were high, was only 3 degrees under stock intel cooler

Yes, you always need to take off the paste completely before putting new thermal paste on again. I know it's a pain too.


----------



## PCSarge

cleaning the paste off is a pain, i ruined a shirt that way once.
and is there a specified amount of paste to use?
but the thing is....is there possibly a way that a heatsink on the nforce chip righ below it is affecting tempuratures... it does have a passive fan on it


----------



## PCSarge

as far as the H50 goes, i dont believe dye will work unless youve chnged the tubing, as the tubing is solid black in color


----------



## tlxxxsracer

So the best way to go about the tubing is get 1/4" ID and 3/8" OD and then just buy 1/4" barbs to fit on the res? 
Can anyone suggest any cheap places to buy everything off of?

Also, is it fine to just use distilled water or do I have to add anything to it?


----------



## PCSarge

you must add ethylene glycol to the distilled water, exact ratios i dont know


----------



## tlxxxsracer

And I get that where? sorry for the noobish question.. 
The ratio would be great if someone can share








but Id like to know a cheap place to get everything from. Including 1/4" barbs, microres, Sycthe ultra Kaze 3000, anti-kink coil and cheap shroud


----------



## PCSarge

myself till i got this h50, i hadnt tried watercooling, was out of my buget range, ask the guys with the custom setups, i'm sure they searched or bargains too

ethelyne glycol = ANTIFREEZE!!!


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


cleaning the paste off is a pain, i ruined a shirt that way once.
and is there a specified amount of paste to use?
but the thing is....is there possibly a way that a heatsink on the nforce chip righ below it is affecting tempuratures... it does have a passive fan on it


Try applying the paste in 5 small dots, like this:
------
o - o
- o -
o - o
------

Also, when you reseat the pump, make sure you're using the correct screws for mounting and then do about a 1/2 turn on each screw, in a cross/diagonal pattern, so that the pressure is applied evenly onto the CPU.

Out of curiosity, how are your push/pull fans configured? (Both pointed and flowing in the same direction) Intake or Exhaust?


----------



## PCSarge

thier same direction, push/pull exhaust out the rear, they both run at 2100rpm consistantly, and the only thing i dont have is shrouds ( cant find any here in canada)


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Stick with those GT's (you can thank me later







).

@xmisery: something like this?


















How are you keeping all of that secured in the 5.25" bays? I was thinking about adding that Scythe KAMA BAY PLUS to my case, but then I started to look at its design and how I would mount my "wind tunnel/chamber" to it and it didn't look like it would work, since I wouldnt be able to screw everything in from the front of the bay. So, I thought about getting one of these Triple Bay Fan Mounts instead.

This is how I am considering laying it out.. and this triple bay mount should allow me to hide everything behind my front bezel (giving it a more clean look), rather than using the KAMA BAY which I would have to pop out 3 of my 5.25" bay covers to use.

I bring you.. The Wind Tunnel!
GT 1850 <|- 42mm Airbox Shroud <|- H50 <|- 42mm Airbox Shroud <|- GT 1850 <|- 31mm TFC Xtender Shroud (Blue LED) <|- MountainMod Triple Bay Fan Mount

lol, what do you all think?!


----------



## PCSarge

mine is mounted in the rear 120mm slot, and has no shrouds its simply fan-->rad-->fan and it has a high airfow, besides i have no space for shrouding, i'm in a mid tower









my case also has a closing front door over the 5.25 bays, so i couldnt front mount even if i wanted to


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
How are you keeping all of that secured in the 5.25" bays? I was thinking about adding that Scythe KAMA BAY PLUS to my case, but then I started to look at its design and how I would mount my "wind tunnel/chamber" to it and it didn't look like it would work, since I wouldnt be able to screw everything in from the front of the bay. So, I thought about getting one of these Triple Bay Fan Mounts instead.

This is how I am considering laying it out.. and this triple bay mount should allow me to hide everything behind my front bezel (giving it a more clean look), rather than using the KAMA BAY which I would have to pop out 3 of my 5.25" bay covers to use.

I bring you.. The Wind Tunnel!
GT 1850 <|- 42mm Airbox Shroud <|- H50 <|- 42mm Airbox Shroud <|- GT 1850 <|- 31mm TFC Xtender Shroud (Blue LED) <|- MountainMod Triple Bay Fan Mount

lol, what do you all think?!

I used an HDD cage mounted backwards. Cage works as an air duct (kinda) to bring in cool air.
Front mount


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
cleaning the paste off is a pain, i ruined a shirt that way once.
and is there a specified amount of paste to use?
but the thing is....is there possibly a way that a heatsink on the nforce chip righ below it is affecting tempuratures... it does have a passive fan on it

I dont think that heatsink will be making a difference.

As for the amount of paste - try 5 small dots: one in each corner and one in the middle.

Make sure you used the 4 smaller screws out of the 12 that we're given to you, they shouldnt wobble when you screw them up. Also make sure all the tabs are clipped in properly on the ring of the bracket.

I know it's a pain but reseating is usually the answer to most temperature problems.

EDIT: Missed this whole page, looks like your question has been answered


----------



## PCSarge

if i could shroud i would but i cant, my mid tower is tightly packed as it is

that is unless theres halfsize shrouds i can use


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
if i could shroud i would but i cant, my mid tower is tightly packed as it is

Don't worry about shrouding right now. A lot of us aren't and we still get great temps. I would focus on the feedback we've given you so far and see what kind of results you get.


----------



## PCSarge

tonight will determine wether or not its imporperly mounted on the cpu, i can update from a laptop as i go so, il try to webcam photoshoot it

P.S i may even make a video of it so you can laugh at my noobness









occupy me with little things i dont know guys, i'm at work and bored stiff, so feel free to post questions about my rig or anything


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


tonight will determine wether or not its imporperly mounted on the cpu, i can update from a laptop as i go so, il try to webcam photoshoot it

P.S i may even make a video of it so you can laugh at my noobness









occupy me with little things i dont know guys, i'm at work and bored stiff, so feel free to post questions about my rig or anything


Cool, can't wait to see your updated results. Also, you may want to browse this entire thread, as it's full of trials and errors and discoveries, if you have the time. There is loads of information to be found in here.


----------



## Capwn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mypcisugly*


yes i know very cool of them to use it.. I hope this starts a trend .
We could get lucky and Ati and Nvidia will start to use quality tim and due the same


BFG uses Shin Etsu on all of thier cards


----------



## TwistedTransistor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


TwistedTransistor,

I figured the problem out







I'll post pics later if I'm able to work on anything today/tonight!


Nice one, cant wait for pics.


----------



## corsmem

Here is finally a pic of my rig


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Cool, can't wait to see your updated results. *Also, you may want to browse this entire thread, as it's full of trials and errors and discoveries, if you have the time.* There is loads of information to be found in here.










See you on Monday


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


See you on Monday










Hahaha, well he did say he was bored stiff at work!


----------



## PCSarge

lol...fix my boredom or i will stewieslap you all!!! and consider me entered into the H50 club, ill post pics and possibly video later tonight


----------



## maximus20895

I went through this whole thread and I still don't know what is best.

Is it better to do:

case<==fan|rad|<==fan

case==>fan|rad|==>fan

someone help. Thanks.


----------



## PCSarge

EXHAUST....intake will screw up you temps on everything but ur cpu, big time

and sorry if you think that was abrupt...but i'm bored on an old P3 pc at work......


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TwistedTransistor* 
Nice one, cant wait for pics.

Here ya go... Gotta head to work now, but I'm sure you have an idea where this is going!


----------



## PCSarge

warning...impending tube blowoff, see the 2 diff sizes rammed into eachother in the pic lmao
what really fails, is this old P# 800mhz pc i'm on, gets better temps on the intel fan than m core 2 duo did, atm this P3 is at 27C idle lol in a room with ambient of 27C

the second big fail is this is my old rig...which i donated to my office


----------



## maximus20895

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


EXHAUST....intake will screw up you temps on everything but ur cpu, big time

and sorry if you think that was abrupt...but i'm bored on an old P3 pc at work......



I'm dumb so which one is the exhaust?

This one:

case<==fan|rad|<==fan

Oh, and I need these screws and this size. http://imgkk.com/i/MbHXtQ.png


----------



## PCSarge

exhaust is whichever way the fans blow OUT of the case, so yes usually that way

P.S! : dude...you scare me....a pc config like that and u cant figure out which way a fan goes...dont ever try to play puzzle with your pc parts


----------



## maximus20895

That's what I thought. And those screws work too. The ones that were in the accessory section?


----------



## PCSarge

they do work, i'm using some myself

maximus, if you get good temps, try oc'ing 200mhz at a time


----------



## PCSarge

Oh Oh Oh its Silent, you know. never believe its not so, The H50 is so very Pro


----------



## maximus20895

Nice. I'll just get some at a hardware store then. Thanks for your help.


----------



## PCSarge

no prob maxi, i am but here to help, pressing the rep button on my posts helps me though


----------



## PCSarge

the sad part is, computers are glorified pieces of plastic with shiny metal parts stuck in them...then all shoved in a metal box, with a bunch noisy fans, and expected to stay cold

and we all completely rely on them to entertain us

thus my thesis is man has made a glorified metal box with a keyboard and mouse, oh joy to the world, wheres the Y2K bug? nowhere? there will be no 2012 doomsday either

to the media this is a game with our minds,not with our bodies


----------



## maximus20895

maxi? Really? People use to call me maxipad all the time. UGH! I just got back from the store to purchase the screws.

You are extremely bored.


----------



## PCSarge

yup, thank god i'm going home in 15 minutes

and dont worry, i dont mention women on here...there rarely are any


----------



## SFaznSpEEdSTeR

Here's mine so far...took a little mod to fit push/pull around the tall VReg heatpipe on the eVGA x58 E758 in my 900

I have it set to exhaust(outside of case)<--Rad<--exhuast


----------



## TwistedTransistor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
Here ya go... Gotta head to work now, but I'm sure you have an idea where this is going!









I thought about that, but didnt know how to seal the tubes for leaking.


----------



## maximus20895

bah! I just finished doing the pull/push and I don't think it helps at all







It seems it may even raised the temp by 1-2 degrees.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maximus20895*


bah! I just finished doing the pull/push and I don't think it helps at all







It seems it may even raised the temp by 1-2 degrees.










That doesn't sound right. What fans are you using and double-check to make sure they are both facing the same direction (blowing air out the back)


----------



## maximus20895

They both are corsair ones. I have the one that came with the cooler and the one that came with the case.

By how much should it lower it versus the normal intake with one fan?


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maximus20895*


They both are corsair ones. I have the one that came with the cooler and the one that came with the case.

By how much should it lower it versus the normal intake with one fan?


Using a case fan = fail


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwistedTransistor*


I thought about that, but didnt know how to seal the tubes for leaking.


I'm going to use Hose CLamps to seal it. Thats the reasoning for the Brass tubes for inner support.









I'll have more pics later.


----------



## maximus20895

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Using a case fan = fail


What should I get? I don't want to pay $20 to lower my temps by 2 degrees..


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maximus20895*


What should I get? I don't want to pay $20 to lower my temps by 2 degrees..


Your case fan is fine for a mediocre temperature drop. I use a case fan as my pull fan and it definetely improves temps, there is no need to buy an awesome fan unless you're really enthusiast.

My suggestion is to make sure that your fans are both blowing the same direction for a start - and then evaluate the air flow in your whole case.

If you have the setup as intake you may not have enough exhaust to keep the temps down inside your case, which wont help. And if you have the H50 setup as intake make sure it has enough intake air.

What I think you have happening is some sort of air turbulence which is somehow reducing airflow. One thing you could try is using a shroud on the "push" fan, the easiest way to do this is to take an old fan and rip out the blades and motor, and just use it as a spacer. Cheap, effective, and will save you from replacing your fans hopefully - because it will smooth out the airflow as well as reducing the dead spot area of your push fan.

Hope this helps.

*I will update the front page with new members tomorrow.*


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maximus20895*


What should I get? I don't want to pay $20 to lower my temps by 2 degrees..


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-060-_-Product

2 would be best.


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-060-_-Product

2 would be best.


+1 for a great suggestion. But like I have said before. Use a shroud with these to maximize their performance and lower the noise. You could also try med speed slip streams. They are quiet and work well with this rad.


----------



## menozcm

here is my H50


----------



## xmisery

For anyone looking to purchase the Corsair H50 Cooler for cheap, BestBuy (USA) currently has this on sale from $79 - $20 = $59. You can also use Bing Cashback and get an additional 10% off the purchase price, bringing it down to *$53.99 + Free Shipping*.









I just picked up a 2nd one to play around with. Might do some modding with it later.


----------



## PCSarge

i am now reseating my waterblock for the H50, if this was the problem we will soon be finding out,and no i'm not doing it with the pc running, i'm on my laptop

will vantec thermal paste do it? i'm out of ocz freeze


----------



## Mazda6i07

h50 vs Cm212 with Ultra Kaze push/pull configuration?


----------



## PCSarge

lol i think my temperature sensors on my mobo are bad, stil lreads 36C after reseating the waterblock, yet if i touch it, its room temp (around 20C)


----------



## Killhouse

Maybe try some other software - Speedfan and Coretemp are my favourites. OCCT and everest if you need more options.

I suggest you take a little trip to the BIOS and read your temperatures in there, though it does sound like the sensors may be a little borked


----------



## PCSarge

well the software i have, came with my asus motherboard...lol


----------



## Killhouse

I see, give coretemp a go. If just to satisfy OCN


----------



## PCSarge

reads 41C... i think the mobo sensors are baked lol

only 1 way to find out if this H50 can handle heat.... intel burn test time


----------



## Killhouse

Yes, I think you're right. If you want to get an accurate reading you could buy an ameter with a remote temperature sensor monitor.

On another topic, this is what happens when you sign up to instant email notifications in this thread:


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


.........On another topic, this is what happens when you sign up to instant email notifications in this thread:











.........5000. . . . . .







......







. . . . You might get Carpotunnel after answering those . . . . .......i'll bet that "delete_all" key SURE look's good, huh? ! ? ! ? ! ! ! === sorry for being off topic for here, as well ....LOLOLLOLOL.......









mr. Charles .









.


----------



## PCSarge

fail...i'm on max burn test set to 100 times, and its barely getting warm now *****


----------



## dctokyo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maximus20895*


I went through this whole thread and I still don't know what is best.

Is it better to do:

case<==fan|rad|<==fan

case==>fan|rad|==>fan

someone help. Thanks.


It really depends on your case, for my Raven 2, I have the push/pull set up for exhaust and it works great, but my case is + air pressure.


----------



## Killhouse

There is a good guideline answer to this on the first post in the FAQ section. It depends a lot on your system and the best method is trial and error.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

What is the ratio of distilled water and antifreeze?? I ordered my stuff. I got 1 Scythe ultra kaze for now. Ill get another one later on


----------



## Mikezilla

I'm in, bought one today.


----------



## PCSarge

yay for ASUS mobo cpu temp readings being off by 20C! i'm laughing now.... my cpu is so cold the air coming out the rad is like its out of a fridge 22C idle 37C full load on max burn test repeated 50 times

EDIT: room temp is 27C, the pump is freezing cold to the touch....i wish i bought this thing earlier >.>


----------



## maximus20895

^what!? I'm confused..

How did you get it that low?


----------



## PCSarge

two reasons i believe , one being that i have 2 3000rpm fans in push pull exhaust on the rad, and the other being my case has a very high airflow, with 2 3000 rpm fans for intake one on the side panel, and one in the front of the case
and possibly the fact that i didnt do a major OC (only 400mhz) from 2.8-3.2ghz
that coupled with the fact that i'm not directly under a heating vent... seems to be priceless xD
also if you look at my cpu, its a much older core 2 duo, not an I7 I5 or quad....

that and the fact that i'm in a MID TOWER CASE, so the fans blowing in, are less than 2 feet from the exhaust over the rad


----------



## maximus20895

I am running stock and the lowest temp i've seen is 30







What two fans are you using?


----------



## PCSarge

ill link them ifi can still find them...thier a few years old
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...5262&CatId=494

and take note, i'm using 2 as intakes on the side and front of the case, and 2 as the fans for exhaust push/pull on the rad
and also you are in a full tower, i'm in a mid tower









and they dont list the rpms for that model, but my top out at 3021rpms w/ a fan controller


----------



## maximus20895

i'm in a mid tower.

So you are using a total of four fans for the push/pull?


----------



## PCSarge

no no no, i have 2 mounted on the case, and one on either side of the rad

my H50 fans are case<--fan<--rad<--fan

and i have one on the clear side panel blowing in, and one behind the faceplate blowing in

though you also didnt pay attention to my earlier post, i'm running a Core2Duo processor OC'd to 3.2ghz, which still produces far less heat than an i7 920/ 940 BE

the other fact is my Core2Duo is also a Wolfdale-3M , which it seems in a few tests i've found, dont produce too much heat under full load or at idle , whereas other processors do, idk, i guess they did something right once, and failed to repeat it


----------



## maximus20895

I paid attention. Yea, I might have to do what your doing or maybe it's just because of the fans? Meh. I just finished switching it from exhaust to intake and it lowered them back to around where it was with only one fan.

When I look at real temp the number on the far left is a little higher than all the others which means that "core" is hotter. I know I placed the h50 correctly so i'm not really sure.

Edit: I just now turned HT off and it doesn't seem to effect temperatures.


----------



## PCSarge

can be a few possibles, id need a pic of the inside of your case to tell you what fans and which way to set them up, personally, i'm working with a low end case,
which i had no choice at the time, and it was a pretty good deal for 64 bucks, and i was on a budget.

the thing is, is i mounted a fan bracket in my leftover 3 5 1/2 size drive bays, which i fitted with one of those fans also

if you can get me a picture of the inside of you case with the side off it, i can tell you what needs to be done to drop Temps as low as possible


----------



## maximus20895

Ask and you shall receive. I can also put that fan I ziptied on the side panel if needed.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...r/IMG_0565.jpg


----------



## PCSarge

you are in a full tower, a mid has 3 hdd bays and 4 5 1/2 drive bays and no room for those huge fans you have around ur hdd bays (by the way those are great) i need to know 2 things, the rpm of the fan you ziptied to your panel, and the rpm of the fans you are using on the H50 rad, and if you have them, thier cfm's as well

and btw, kudos for taking an ASUS mobo, i use them myself, thier the most reliable i've found

EDIT: one other question, that bottom case fan mount, how much clearance from the bottom of the case to your desk/ floor, i may utilize that


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Okay, can someone please tell me the ratio of distilled water to antifreeze?
and/or what should I use to add to distilled water?


----------



## PCSarge

TLX, i have no clue, i seem to be the only one whos on consistantly as much as i can be, ill attempt to get an answer for you, bear with me

EDIT!: i found your answer TLX, according to most popular brands water:antifreeze ratio should be 20:80 ( so 500ml antifreeze per 2L water)


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Sarge: that much in this little loop? Do you have a link to this info? Didnt know 2L of distilled water would be used. or will i continue to break it down like 250ml:1L, 125ml:500ml?
What most popular brands?

by the way you have it backwards here, its antifreeze:water right?


----------



## HBrown140

Just found this site and the CLUB.So I thought I'd give it a try.Here are some pics of my rig.


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HBrown140* 
Just found this site and the CLUB.So I thought I'd give it a try.Here are some pics of my rig.

Welcome to the club and OCN! Your air flow in your case is all a mess. I would flip your top and bottom fans, and then your H50.


----------



## TwistedTransistor

Nice rig brown.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


Welcome to the club and OCN! Your air flow in your case is all a mess. I would flip your top and bottom fans, and then your H50.










His airflow looks good to me, considering there is a massive exhaust fan on the sidepanel of his case if i recall correctly.

Welcome to OCN and the club


----------



## PCSarge

sorry TLX, yes you can break it down further, that basically the largest figures, it was meant to be broken down in the first place


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*









His airflow looks good to me, considering there is a massive exhaust fan on the sidepanel of his case if i recall correctly



How do you figure? OK lets say he has exhaust fan on his side panel fan. He also has 2 bottom exhaust fans further stealing more air from his GFX cards. Those under air flowed GFX cards pump hot air out the rear of his case. Heat rises only to be suck back into his through the coil of his H50. Then is PSU is setup in exhaust right above the heat exchanged hot air that comes out the H50. After that the even hotter air is get blowing out the rear of the case. So the H50 is above and below 2 heat sources. That is not a good idea because heat could follow cool air in any direction. On top of that where is the mix of hot and cool air going once it's inside his case?










What he should do is flip the 2 bottom fans to supply his GFX cards with fresh air. If he has a side panel fan make it intake for his H50. Turn his top fan into exhaust so his hot air form his MB and ram can leave his case. Then flip the H50's fan so it's in exhaust. The idea is to get the air flow in order and more along the lines of natural air flow.


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


How do you figure? OK lets say he has exhaust fan on his side panel fan. He also has 2 bottom exhaust fans further stealing more air from his GFX cards. Those under air flowed GFX cards pump hot air out the rear of his case. Heat rises only to be suck back into his through the coil of his H50. Then is PSU is setup in exhaust right above the heat exchanged hot air that comes out the H50. After that the even hotter air is get blowing out the rear of the case. So the H50 is above and below 2 heat sources. That is not a good idea because heat could follow cool air in any direction. On top of that where is the mix of hot and cool air going once it's inside his case?










What he should do is flip the 2 bottom fans to supply his GFX cards with fresh air. If he has a side panel fan make it intake for his H50. Turn his top fan into exhaust so his hot air form his MB and ram can leave his case. Then flip the H50's fan so it's in exhaust. The idea is to get the air flow in order and more along the lines of natural air flow.











Your backwards dude. His bottom fans are currently intake. His top fan is exhaust, and his H50 is intake. If his side panel is exhaust then he his short circuiting his air flow. That would need to be turned around as well as the H50 fan. Don't for get, the air is pulled though the open side of the fan through the motor mount side. Not visa versa.


----------



## Killhouse

Yeah you've got your fans the wrong way around Pings. Fans blow air to the side with the logo/motor mountings







Nice try though


----------



## HBrown140

thank you all very much for your comments. Pings,dkev is correct the two bottom fans ARE intake and the top IS exhaust.plus if you notice there is another intake fan just above the bottom right fan which blows directly on the Graphics Cards.I must admit that I was confused by Corsair instruction concerning air flow with the H50.But I thought maybe Corsair knows something I don't. As I was under the impression (like everyone else) that forcing HOT are INTO your case is a bad thing.However if the general consensus is to reverse the fans on the H50,I have no problem with it. Please advise.

Once again thank you for you comments and advise


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HBrown140* 
thank you all very much for your comments. Pings,dkev is correct the two bottom fans ARE intake and the top IS exhaust.plus if you notice there is another intake fan just above the bottom right fan which blows directly on the Graphics Cards.I must admit that I was confused by Corsair instruction concerning air flow with the H50.But I thought maybe Corsair knows something I don't. As I was under the impression (like everyone else) that forcing HOT are INTO your case is a bad thing.However if the general consensus is to reverse the fans on the H50,I have no problem with it. Please advise.

Once again thank you for you comments and advise

Like I have said in the past, Corsair can't account for all the different set ups so that's why they recommend the fan be set to intake. But as long as you have good air flow, it's not necessary.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HBrown140*


thank you all very much for your comments. Pings,dkev is correct the two bottom fans ARE intake and the top IS exhaust.plus if you notice there is another intake fan just above the bottom right fan which blows directly on the Graphics Cards.I must admit that I was confused by Corsair instruction concerning air flow with the H50.But I thought maybe Corsair knows something I don't. As I was under the impression (like everyone else) that forcing HOT are INTO your case is a bad thing.However if the general consensus is to reverse the fans on the H50,I have no problem with it. Please advise.

Once again thank you for you comments and advise


You have some nice exhaust fans on the top there so you should be alright with intake, allowing for slightly lower CPU temps. If you find your graphics cards are getting hot I would recommended flipping the H50, and maybe that top exhaust fan to intake to give it some fresh air.

Nice system though


----------



## CaptnBB

10 parts water to one part antifreeze/ethylene glycol. In other words 10% antifreeze is good. Antifreeze can end up raising your temps if you add too much.


----------



## 10speedr

new pics with xspc rad

















I wasn't able to chart the temps with the new rad cause I switched my cpu's out. But it keeps my qx9650 @3.6 a cool 22-24c/38-40c

Very pleased with these results. I'm getting high dollar w/c performance for sub $200.


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *10speedr*


new pics with xspc rad
I wasn't able to chart the temps with the new rad cause I switched my cpu's out. But it keeps my qx9650 @3.6 a cool 22-24c/38-40c 
Very pleased with these results. I'm getting high dollar w/c performance for sub $200.


I'm pretty sure that is the sweetest H50 mod I have seen yet.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Not to rain on a parade, but I have a feeling that your (speedr) pump will die. Thats a big res, a big rad, long tubing and having to fight gravity. Looks sweet though









So I should use antifreeze, not PT Nuke? Im using http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=22956 these on the res and the original barbs on the pump and rad. Is there a difference in metals? Will I have to worry about algae?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Not to rain on a parade, but I have a feeling that your (speedr) pump will die. Thats a big res, a big rad, long tubing and having to fight gravity. Looks sweet though









10speedr, nice setup man. As to failing pumps, I guess time will tell







Its all about the journey. I hope it doesnt though - its looking good!


----------



## goonies

I had some problems with the H50 installation so I postponed it to today or tomorrow. Last night the RV02 and the P55-GD65 the hole on the case where the CPU is located didn't match up so I'm going to have to remove the entire board. Also the DrMos heatsink screws on the back are preventing the H50 bracket from being flush with the motherboard should I sand out a notch on the bracket til it fits level or will it work without having to modify it? Anyone else have this problem?


----------



## 10speedr

I had the same problem with my 790i. I used a rotary tool to notch out the corner. Worked fine.


----------



## goonies

Quote:



Originally Posted by *10speedr*


I had the same problem with my 790i. I used a rotary tool to notch out the corner. Worked fine.


Good to hear guess I'll be modifying it then.









Probably going to have to do it tomorrow daylight here is about to be gone, and this all black case is hard for me to work in without really good lighting, my eyes must be getting worse







. For now I must keep using the stock cooler.














But I do get to enjoy my light up ram, if I roll over the firefox personas at www.getpersonas.com my ram lights will move about, but the minute I quit rolling over them they stop. It's really cool wish I could get a video of it, but I'm trying to find our digital camera.


----------



## HBrown140

Quote:



Originally Posted by *10speedr*


new pics with xspc rad

















I wasn't able to chart the temps with the new rad cause I switched my cpu's out. But it keeps my qx9650 @3.6 a cool 22-24c/38-40c

Very pleased with these results. I'm getting high dollar w/c performance for sub $200.


I hope your not diabetic......cause that is ONE SWEET HOOK UP.
Great work!


----------



## PC Gamer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HBrown140*


I hope your not diabetic......cause that is ONE SWEET HOOK UP.
Great work!


Wow that was lame, but funny at the same time.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *10speedr*


new pics with xspc rad
...
I wasn't able to chart the temps with the new rad cause I switched my cpu's out. But it keeps my qx9650 @3.6 a cool 22-24c/38-40c

Very pleased with these results. I'm getting high dollar w/c performance for sub $200.


Amazing







+rep to you sir!









That is an awesome mod. All I would suggest is maybe adding some UV dye to finish off the epicness









*EDIT: Being lazy due to exams, I promise to update the member list tomorrow *


----------



## Benikos

add me im a new owner


----------



## PCSarge

ok then... could i have put too much/ little paste on my waterblock....its gone to 41C idle lmao rofl (and thats according to occt)

or might there be a curing time  and if so does that affect temps?


----------



## xquisit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Amazing







+rep to you sir!









That is an awesome mod. All I would suggest is maybe adding some UV dye to finish off the epicness









*EDIT: Being lazy due to exams, I promise to update the member list tomorrow *










+1 to this, and I was actually wondering.. is it possible to hook up a loop to a NB block? If so would you recommend a bigger radiator? My knowledge is very low on water-cooling, and to do this would take one big step for me.. any good guides to read on?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


I'm going to be making a Tutorial on H50 Tube Modding in the next day or so. After I get my other tubing and a couple other things I'll start hacking it apart









My setup will be a CLOSED LOOP btw, including my Northbridge in the loop!

Stay Tuned


You could contact this guy, I dont know what he's planning but expect something soon


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I finally ordered all my stuff today. So before I get it in and start working, Im going to try my rad in exhaust, to help me decide where to mount the res and if I can get better temps that way. 
Just as i promised earlier ill make a tutorial video.. Im also going to lap the cpu and h50







Might as well go all out


----------



## Killhouse

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *PCSarge*   ok then... could i have put too much/ little paste on my waterblock....its gone to 41C idle lmao rofl (and thats according to occt)

or might there be a curing time  and if so does that affect temps?  
Yes, this will definetely have an effect on temps. You should be using about a pea size overall. This method is quite good, I link it mostly just to give you an idea for the amount of paste to use. His technique is also something worth considering though I find it easier just to use 5 small dots on the CPU.

  
 YouTube- How to Apply Thermal Compound to a CPU  



 
 Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*   I finally ordered all my stuff today. So before I get it in and start working, Im going to try my rad in exhaust, to help me decide where to mount the res and if I can get better temps that way. 
Just as i promised earlier ill make a tutorial video.. Im also going to lap the cpu and h50







Might as well go all out  
This post makes me look like this ->







Looking forward to seeing another H50 mod!


----------



## tlxxxsracer

HAHA







I was quite hesitant to do the mod because voiding the warranty on it and not sure if it would shorten the life of it. I considered buying a thermalright gpu cooler instead, But opted to stick with the mod. 
Killhouse, Ive done research on different methods and the pea size in the middle isnt the best. This leaves all the edges and corners with no paste. I probably put too much when I put my AS5, so ill use smaller dots in a 5 dice form. This covers the corners edges and in the middle. Ive also read another good wasy is in a X with dots between the spaces of the X


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Yes, this will definetely have an effect on temps. You should be using about a pea size overall. This method is quite good, I link it mostly just to give you an idea for the amount of paste to use. *His technique is also something worth considering though I find it easier just to use 5 small dots on the CPU.*

I beat you to it







Correct me if I'm wrong but if you learnt that early on in this thread it would have been myself or Sethy that brought it up. We are avid believers in the 5-dot method







Overall though, you're looking at approxiamately a pea size - so each dot would be one fifth of a pea.

Of course, that all depends on the pea! Here is a picture to get the ball rolling.


----------



## mr-Charles

....ya gotta think about's the size and location of the die underneath that Heat-Spreader . . . . . it's only so big and pretty much centered, not extending out to the 4 corner's nor to all 4 edges of the Heat-Speader......that's my thinking of NOT to worry of complete coverage UNLESS you just spread it yourself with a plastic card of some sort..
....my







worth . . . .

mr. Charles .









.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I beat you to it







Correct me if I'm wrong but if you learnt that early on in this thread it would have been myself or Sethy that brought it up. We are avid believers in the 5-dot method







Overall though, you're looking at approxiamately a pea size - so each dot would be one fifth of a pea.

Of course, that all depends on the pea! Here is a picture to get the ball rolling.

Or in this case... *the pea rolling!*









Actually, quick question to everyone. I've also heard that for this particular cooler, it might be best to apply TIM to the Corsair HEAD (as it comes shipped), rather than the CPU itself. Anyone agree or disagree with that?


----------



## Killhouse

Warning kids, dont use tinned peas on your CPU. It has bad thermal conductivity - instead opt for some Frozen Petit Pois. They have much better thermal properties though it come at a high price









We should probably get back on topic before the Aussies wake up


----------



## xquisit

I think some of us should join the water-cooling club, and post some pictures. It's only right









http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...e-gallery.html

Forgive me, if this is against the rules. I just want the water-cooling gallery, filled with some H50 ballers!


----------



## PCSarge

my pea was slightly smaller... and i had a tossable plastic card to use to spread... still sitting at 38-39C idle... pissing me off now...


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
I think some of us should join the water-cooling club, and post some pictures. It's only right










http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...e-gallery.html

Forgive me, if this is against the rules. I just want the water-cooling gallery, filled with some H50 ballers!

Of course not, get on over there. Especially the modders.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
my pea was slightly smaller... and i had a tossable plastic card to use to spread... still sitting at 38-39C idle... pissing me off now...

Hmm, tricky. Are all your screws secure (none of them wobble when you tightened them) and are all the tabs correctly matched up on the ring of the bracket. Check your pump is running at about 1400 RPM using speedfan or the BIOS, and check your temps in another program.


----------



## PCSarge

the screws and snap ins for the screws are correct, thier tight enough that i cant physically even move the waterblock, no temp changes between speedfan,occt,and a few others...

any suggestions?? could my passive fan on the heatsink below it affect temps?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
the screws and snap ins for the screws are correct, thier tight enough that i cant physically even move the waterblock, no temp changes between speedfan,occt,and a few others...

any suggestions?? could my passive fan on the heatsink below it affect temps?

Unlikely, how high are your ambient temperatures?


----------



## PCSarge

anbient temps are around 22-24C, but the waterblock itself is colder than the room to the touch... yet the rad has no heat coming out the back... makes no sense

EDIT: the pipes are also not warm, the pump is operating at a steady 1480 rpm... i dont get it


----------



## tlxxxsracer

For reference... Im using a 38mm fan and a 25mm shroud. With that I got 3" long screws, that should work because 2.5" isnt quite long enough.
I cant wait to start this
*anxiously waiting by a window waiting for a loud ups/fedex truck* LOL


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 









We should probably get back on topic before the Aussies wake up









Tooo late... Im awake...

Ever tired to spread MX-3? Not recommended









When I get time, Im moving my rad outside the case and adding a 34mm shroud, Ive ordered some Shin Etsu TIM to see if there is a noticable difference between that and the MX-3


----------



## maximus20895

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
you are in a full tower, a mid has 3 hdd bays and 4 5 1/2 drive bays and no room for those huge fans you have around ur hdd bays (by the way those are great) i need to know 2 things, the rpm of the fan you ziptied to your panel, and the rpm of the fans you are using on the H50 rad, and if you have them, thier cfm's as well

and btw, kudos for taking an ASUS mobo, i use them myself, their the most reliable I've found

EDIT: one other question, that bottom case fan mount, how much clearance from the bottom of the case to your desk/ floor, i may utilize that



*Cooling System:*

Front: 200x30mm Blue LED Fan x 1 (500 - 1000rpm, 17 - 23 dBA)


Top: 200x30mm Blue LED Fan x 1 (500 - 1000rpm, 17 - 23 dBA)
(can be swapped for two 120mm fans or 120x240mm Radiator)


Rear: 120x25mm Standard Fan x 1 (1200rpm, 17 dBA)
(can be swapped for 90mm fan or 80mm fan)


Bottom: Supports 140mm Fan x 1 or 120mm Fan x 1 w/ Dust Filter (optional)


Side: 200x30mm Blue LED Fan x 1 (500 - 1000rpm, 17 - 23 dBA)
120x25mm Fan x 2 (optional)


I couldn't find any cfm's on any of the case fans at all, just how fast they are going as you can see.

The bottom on would be maybe an inch/inch half from the ground. The two fans I was using on the H50 is the one that came with it and the 120 that was on the case. It is the rear one in the cooling system bullet thing.

I hope I answered what you needed.

Edit: I found that the three 200mm fans are rated at 142 CFM and the corsair fan that came with the h50 runs at 1700 RPM with a CFM of 60 tops. The other 120 coolermaster fan is rated at 1200 rpm and 44CFM.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


anbient temps are around 22-24C, but the waterblock itself is colder than the room to the touch... yet the rad has no heat coming out the back... makes no sense

EDIT: the pipes are also not warm, the pump is operating at a steady 1480 rpm... i dont get it


Something weird going on there, can you hear water running through the pipes at all? It could just be normal temps for your chip, I dont know how hot these intel thingies run - but it does seem very high.

I need to sleep badly, but I suggest scrolling through a few pages of this thread and looking for troubleshooting tips that others have suggested.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Tooo late... Im awake...

Ever tired to spread MX-3? Not recommended









When I get time, Im moving my rad outside the case and adding a 34mm shroud, Ive ordered some Shin Etsu TIM to see if there is a noticable difference between that and the MX-3


:swearing: I hope you didnt see the peas sethy, dont let them corrupt your mind!

Interesting to see your TIM/Shroud improvements. I'm hoping to add some 55m Feser Triebwerks onto my rad but they have very mixed reviews in terms of noise.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maximus20895*



 *Cooling System:*
 Front: 200x30mm Blue LED Fan x 1 (500 - 1000rpm, 17 - 23 dBA) 
 Top: 200x30mm Blue LED Fan x 1 (500 - 1000rpm, 17 - 23 dBA)
(can be swapped for two 120mm fans or 120x240mm Radiator) 
 Rear: 120x25mm Standard Fan x 1 (1200rpm, 17 dBA)
(can be swapped for 90mm fan or 80mm fan) 
 Bottom: Supports 140mm Fan x 1 or 120mm Fan x 1 w/ Dust Filter (optional) 
 Side: 200x30mm Blue LED Fan x 1 (500 - 1000rpm, 17 - 23 dBA)
120x25mm Fan x 2 (optional) 

I couldn't find any cfm's on any of the case fans at all, just how fast they are going as you can see.

The bottom on would be maybe an inch/inch half from the ground. The two fans I was using on the H50 is the one that came with it and the 120 that was on the case. It is the rear one in the cooling system bullet thing.

I hope I answered what you needed.


thats good, but your fans run slow... they make airflow... but my 2 fans create as much as about 4 of yours roughly (rounding numbers off) anyways try buying a few 2000 rpm fans to replace the slower ones ( i know LED is pretty but its cosmetic, and of no help to you) set the fan in the bottom of the case to intake, so it blows on or near ur video cards to cool them off
make sure your H50 is set to exhaust on fans, as intake tends to render high case temps and as far as the fans your using on the rad, one is slower than the other, which makes the push/pull less efficient, try buying 2 fans with the same rpms


----------



## maximus20895

Ah okay. So are you saying my 200mm fans are slow?


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maximus20895*


Ah okay. So are you saying my 200mm fans are slow?


I think the fans in your case come connected to the fan control at the top-front. Try increasing that to Max and see.


----------



## PCSarge

the top one is fine, the front one... is it possible to mount a 140mm fan that runs at 2000rpms there as an intake? because 1000 rpm doesnt move much air...trust me.. i used to have fans like that


----------



## maximus20895

What fan are you talking about. The 200mm on the front of the case? I think you can mount a 140 there. What about the side panel. Would that help any?


----------



## Ocnewb

I'm gonna do push/pull on my new H50. I have 1 Scythe S-Flex F, 1 Xigmatek 120mm and the original H50's fan. I'm just wondering which fan should i use for Push, which for Pull? The Scythe and Xigmatek have similar specs imo.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ocnewb*


I'm gonna do push/pull on my new H50. I have 1 Scythe S-Flex F, 1 Xigmatek 120mm and the original H50's fan. I'm just wondering which fan should i use for Push, which for Pull? The Scythe and Xigmatek have similar specs imo.


I have mine setup with the Corsair fan as the pull and the Xiggy (as listed above) as the push. The corsair fan is a sleeper,,, its quiet a good lil fan.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maximus20895*


What fan are you talking about. The 200mm on the front of the case? I think you can mount a 140 there. What about the side panel. Would that help any?


There is nothing wrong with the airflow in that case as designed. I suggest you move the second 200mm fan by the HDDs, back to the side panel. The front 200mm is plenty for the HDDs. Follow the wire from the rear 120mm case fan and remove from the fan controller. Connect it to a free molex connector, so that it's at max at all times. Try not to lower the speed of the other fans too low as this affects the temp of the air inside the case. Make sure you setup your rad fans as exhaust.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ocnewb*


I'm gonna do push/pull on my new H50. I have 1 Scythe S-Flex F, 1 Xigmatek 120mm and the original H50's fan. I'm just wondering which fan should i use for Push, which for Pull? The Scythe and Xigmatek have similar specs imo.


I would start with the sflex in the pull position, xiggy in push. Setup as exhaust.


----------



## maximus20895

Only the 200mm fans are controlled by the fan controller. The 140 that came with the case only has a 3 pin connector I believe.

I also tried push/pull both intake and exhaust and oddly the exhaust had better results. Hmm.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maximus20895*


Only the 200mm fans are controlled by the fan controller. The 140 that came with the case only has a 3 pin connector I believe.

I also tried push/pull both intake and exhaust and oddly the exhaust had better results. Hmm.


Pretty sure the rear is a 120 not 140. If it's connected to the mobo go into the bios and set the fan to "duty" and set it to "100%". If you have an adapter to molex (4pin) that would be my preference.


----------



## PCSarge

after several searches i did on my Core2Duo E7400, it seems stock temps ar around 50-55C on th intel fan at idle, with the H50 on, mine sits at 35C, under full load from OCCT (in LINPACK on max settings for 2HRS) it sits at 47-51C, so no complaints here, i'm also OC'd from 2.8 - 3.2GHZ

EDIT: these numbers are in an ambient room temp of 26C


----------



## Jeffro422

I just bought an H50 today, Best Buy has them for $60. Anyways, if I put this on a lapped processor will the retention clips tighten down enough? Just thought this could be an issue.


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *goonies*


I had some problems with the H50 installation so I postponed it to today or tomorrow. Last night the RV02 and the P55-GD65 the hole on the case where the CPU is located didn't match up so I'm going to have to remove the entire board. Also the DrMos heatsink screws on the back are preventing the H50 bracket from being flush with the motherboard should I sand out a notch on the bracket til it fits level or will it work without having to modify it? Anyone else have this problem?


Nope, not me, but I have an el cheapo mobo









What ever you do, DO NOT sand the bracket raisers, else your pressure will be way off.


----------



## Chr0n1c

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jeffro422*


I just bought an H50 today, Best Buy has them for $60. Anyways, if I put this on a lapped processor will the retention clips tighten down enough? Just thought this could be an issue.


Doubt it. I mean unless you took off a good 1/16" you should be fine my brotha.


----------



## Jeffro422

One more question. I have Yate Loon d12sm-12 fans that I could use in a push/pull setup. Would it be advised to use them or should I go to Microcenter and buy Gentle Typhoon/Ultra Kaze...something with better static pressure?


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jeffro422* 
One more question. I have Yate Loon d12sm-12 fans that I could use in a push/pull setup. Would it be advised to use them or should I go to Microcenter and buy Gentle Typhoon/Ultra Kaze...something with better static pressure?

Yate Loons should be good.


----------



## SFaznSpEEdSTeR

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jeffro422* 
One more question. I have Yate Loon d12sm-12 fans that I could use in a push/pull setup. Would it be advised to use them or should I go to Microcenter and buy Gentle Typhoon/Ultra Kaze...something with better static pressure?

I think the medium speed ones should be fine. I use the high speed ones for my set-up and even when they're turned down to minimum on my fan controller they still move quite a lot of air.


----------



## arbalest

So here it is! *H50 Tube Mod w/ Northbridge in the loop!*









I'll have a full tutorial writeup sometime soon. Just super busy...

_Just *FYI*, this was *NOT* easy_. Please disregard my cables and such... Just trying to get everything out of the way and test this thing! _ALSO, I will be having LED lighting and such soon, so no worries_









ENJOY!


----------



## Killhouse

Oh, thats nice! Thats real nice! Cant wait to see what this does for your temps. +rep


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Oh, thats nice! Thats real nice! Cant wait to see what this does for your temps. +rep









THanks







I'm going to be doing my whole case in with a blood red accent kind of theme. I like the way this has turned out.


----------



## mav2000

Thats an awesome mod.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Oh, thats nice! Thats real nice! Cant wait to see what this does for your temps. +rep










Intel Burn Test -- 10 passes at Maximum -- Min 30c Max 45c <-- VERY HAPPY









Quote:



Originally Posted by *mav2000*


Thats an awesome mod.


Thank you much!

Time for sleep. Have a full day... in 4 hrs!


----------



## denied

I bought the H50 but i'm waiting to make 4 aditional screws (i can't just buy it). So i want to ask is better to put the radiator with tubes on the bottom or on the top? Bellow I have 5970 so if the tubes are below, wouldn't the card warm up a little bit water inside it?
I have i7 920 the first series (not D0) so i watch for every degree of temperature because i think it's heating up more than D0







)


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *denied*


I bought the H50 but i'm waiting to make 4 aditional screws (i can't just buy it). So i want to ask is better to put the radiator with tubes on the bottom or on the top? Bellow I have 5970 so if the tubes are below, wouldn't the card warm up a little bit water inside it?
I have i7 920 the first series (not D0) so i watch for every degree of temperature because i think it's heating up more than D0







)


Very little difference in terms of radiator orientation. Just arrange it so that the tubes are bent as little as possible to allow for easier flow of the liquid. Heat exchange through the pipes will be tiny - dont worry about it


----------



## denied

Thanks, then i'll see what's best looking through the side panel window


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


So here it is! *H50 Tube Mod w/ Northbridge in the loop!*









I'll have a full tutorial writeup sometime soon. Just super busy...

_Just *FYI*, this was *NOT* easy_. Please disregard my cables and such... Just trying to get everything out of the way and test this thing! _ALSO, I will be having LED lighting and such soon, so no worries_









ENJOY!



Where's your res?


----------



## Xs1nX

Anyone using the H50 with the Coolermaster ATCS 840 ? looks to me like it may have issues with the supports for the mobo tray, and also may inhibit removal of said tray once fitted ?


----------



## Acroma

Feel free to add me, newegg.com is shipping me one as I type this.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Anyone look into using a different rad? Not so much a dual 120mm, but staying with a single 120mm rad. Are there ones that would be more efficient and cool better? Thoughts? If so, I may do this later on as well.

Edit: I got my Scythe Ultra Kaze, anti-kink coil, and barbs today.. Ordered them Monday night and got them this morning. Helps when im in Orlando







Standard USPS shipping too. Just waiting on the res and shrouds.
I got this http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=22303 but Im not sure if its the right thing. It fits for the tubing, but is this what I need? Do I cut this into 3 segments for the loop?


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Anyone look into using a different rad? Not so much a dual 120mm, but staying with a single 120mm rad. Are there ones that would be more efficient and cool better? Thoughts? If so, I may do this later on as well.

Kinda like this guy did









Quote:


Originally Posted by *10speedr* 
new pics with xspc rad

















I wasn't able to chart the temps with the new rad cause I switched my cpu's out. But it keeps my qx9650 @3.6 a cool 22-24c/38-40c

Very pleased with these results. I'm getting high dollar w/c performance for sub $200.


----------



## GAMERIG

Here is my little beast rig, and this is for HTPC only..
















*CM Elite 341*


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


So here it is! *H50 Tube Mod w/ Northbridge in the loop!*









I'll have a full tutorial writeup sometime soon. Just super busy...

_Just *FYI*, this was *NOT* easy_. Please disregard my cables and such... Just trying to get everything out of the way and test this thing! _ALSO, I will be having LED lighting and such soon, so no worries_









ENJOY!



Quote:



Originally Posted by *10speedr*











You guys, your mod H50 rig are AWESOME AND BEAUTIFUL!


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Where's your res?


Didn't use one







Going more for an OEM kinda look.


----------



## DE619

Quick question guys: Do I need to use the bracket that goes behind the motherboard supplied with the cooler or can i use the one with my stock cooler since they are both for the i7?

If I could this would save me A LOT of work


----------



## Beefcake18

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Anyone look into using a different rad? Not so much a dual 120mm, but staying with a single 120mm rad. Are there ones that would be more efficient and cool better? Thoughts? If so, I may do this later on as well.

Edit: I got my Scythe Ultra Kaze, anti-kink coil, and barbs today.. Ordered them Monday night and got them this morning. Helps when im in Orlando







Standard USPS shipping too. Just waiting on the res and shrouds.
I got this http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=22303 but Im not sure if its the right thing. It fits for the tubing, but is this what I need? Do I cut this into 3 segments for the loop?

How does it help being in Orlando? I'm in Orlando and it took forever for me to get my pc parts for my new build. I was about to order a H50 from the egg also and was wondering about replacing the radiator for something more cooling efficient.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DE619* 
Quick question guys: Do I need to use the bracket that goes behind the motherboard supplied with the cooler or can i use the one with my stock cooler since they are both for the i7?

If I could this would save me A LOT of work

If the screws fit you should be fine


----------



## wheth4400

Add me to the list


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Beefcake18*


How does it help being in Orlando? I'm in Orlando and it took forever for me to get my pc parts for my new build. I was about to order a H50 from the egg also and was wondering about replacing the radiator for something more cooling efficient.


I'm guessing because Performance-PCS is in Palm Bay (about an hour from Orlando) so it didn't take long for the parts to arrive.


----------



## xmax126

Add me to the club please. Finally got it up and running but still waiting on the prices of the 5850s.


----------



## DE619

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


If the screws fit you should be fine










Thank god cause I don't wanna remove my motherboard unless its being moved to a new case


----------



## maximus20895

^does your case not have an empty hole on the back of your case where you cpu goes?


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Beefcake18*


How does it help being in Orlando? I'm in Orlando and it took forever for me to get my pc parts for my new build. I was about to order a H50 from the egg also and was wondering about replacing the radiator for something more cooling efficient.



Because performance pcs is in palm bay or like that.. Super quick.


----------



## DE619

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maximus20895* 
^does your case not have an empty hole on the back of your case where you cpu goes?

No it does not cause in my haste to chuck my old family computer for my first custom build i didnt fully look into stuff like that.:swearing:


----------



## PCSarge

killhouse, when i turn the rad over back and forth i hear sloshing of the antifreeze mix.....should it be making this noise?


----------



## Killhouse

it's probably fine, just a few air bubbles in the system.


----------



## PCSarge

i'm reseating the pump once more to make sure its properly done, i also did some searching and found alot of people saying E7400's run hot, so 37C may be my max drop, or it may get better with reseat, ill keep you posted


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
i'm reseating the pump once more to make sure its properly done, i also did some searching and found alot of people saying E7400's run hot, so 37C may be my max drop, or it may get better with reseat, ill keep you posted

What TIM are you using and how are you applying it.

It may have been mentioned before (prob by Killhouse) that if you apply the TIM in a five dot formation, it works really well. It did for Killhouse and I, anyway.

See pic - not to scale. Just use small dots - not too much.


----------



## goonies

Finished putting the cooler on today. I had to notch out a small point on the bracket to get it to fit over a screw that was holding down the DrMos heatsinks on the back, and remove the entire motherboard even though there was a hole where the CPU lies. :swearing: Now I'm waiting on the 2 Swifttech SmartCoils UV Ocean Blue I purchased from Petra's Tech Shop.

*I would like to be added to the club.*


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *goonies*


Finished putting the cooler on today.


Mmmm.... black.... nice setup man.

Killhouse usually updates daily... when he isnt rat-faced and silly









How are your temps?


----------



## Killhouse

Bah exams are over now I have no excuse, I'll update the front page now









Nice pics guys


----------



## goonies

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Mmmm.... black.... nice setup man.

Killhouse usually updates daily... when he isnt rat-faced and silly









How are your temps?


----------



## Killhouse

Very nice, is that everest pro?

Updated the front page. You guys might be interested to see Rick Arters mod guide, he's done a nice job here:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8241834


----------



## mr-Charles

goonies........uhhhh....WHAT's with the temp on the CPU v core & the 12v rail???

mr. Charles .









.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr. Charles*


goonies........uhhhh....WHAT's with the temp on the CPU v core & the 12v rail???
mr. Charles .









.


Take it with a grain of salt... software voltage measurements are notoriously haphazard. 
If those voltages where correct, his system would be BSODing all over the place, assuming it could even boot.


----------



## Killhouse

From the Corsair forums:
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=84427

We haz a leak, oh well - these things happen. Nice to see the response from Corsair.

Quote:



Let's get it replaced, please use the On Line RMA Request Form and we will be happy to replace it. Be sure to check the box that says "I've already spoken to Technical Support and/or RAM Guy."

There is no spec for the amount of angle supported by the H50 and its rare to have a problem like this. You would need to intentionally kink the hoses at the barb for this to happen and even then, I'm not sure it would be easy for the hose to break without bending it back and forth to weaken the hoses. I would suspect that either the H50 was not installed correctly, or possibly it could have been defective out of the box. Either way, lets get it replaced.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I just moved my rad and fans to exhaust instead of intake in the front of my case. Temps idle are currently 33C (running 4 windows of firefox and AIM) and dropping still and 42C load. Its still cooling off after running prime95. They are about the same as intake for me. 
Heres what I received today...







Waiting on the res and shrouds. 
I also bought the sandpaper needed to LAP the cpu and h50. Ill do this once I get the other parts. Trying to keep the time without using my computer to a minimum.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


We haz a leak, oh well - these things happen. Nice to see the response from Corsair.



It was just a matter of time really. A lesson to watch the angle of the tubing coming off the rad I guess... Glad to see Corsair didnt run away from it.


----------



## Capwn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


From the Corsair forums:
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=84427

We haz a leak, oh well - these things happen. Nice to see the response from Corsair.


Look what the guy said in response. Now I'm not sure but Im starting to think more and more that this leak was not the H50's fault and more him wanting a new motherboard. http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showpost...08&postcount=5


----------



## Killhouse

Yeah there is a lot of that, the other thread they have there sounds so suspicious - he didnt even post pictures xD


----------



## Jeffro422

So I asked if my Yate Loon d12sm-12 would be good enough in a push/pull setup and someone said yes..

Went out and bought 2 Ultra Kaze anyways for this setup, they're pretty big!

Pictures after install


----------



## dctokyo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *goonies* 









Finished putting the cooler on today. I had to notch out a small point on the bracket to get it to fit over a screw that was holding down the DrMos heatsinks on the back, and remove the entire motherboard even though there was a hole where the CPU lies. :swearing: Now I'm waiting on the 2 Swifttech SmartCoils UV Ocean Blue I purchased from Petra's Tech Shop.

*I would like to be added to the club.*









Nice set up, but IMHO you should turn your PSU around and let it get cool air from outside the case. Great case BTW, I owned the Raven 2 too


----------



## PCSarge

well, i reseated the pump a second time, and am letting it run 3 hr intervals of max on linpack in occt, and it seems to be curing the paste... each heatup and cooldown renders 2-3 degrees lower temps.... its only a matter of time


----------



## Killhouse

Does anyone know where I can find the maximum rated current draw from a gigabyte UD5P fan header? I want to hook up 2 fans that are rated at 0.51 amps each...


----------



## PCSarge

all i can say as far as the "5 dots" go its not as effective as, spreading a pea size blob with a plastic card







the pea wins (sorry aussies, stop have hallucinations)


----------



## tlxxxsracer

For my mobo it says "The fan connectors support cooling fans of 350mA-2000mA (24W max.) or a total of 1A07A (84W max) at +12V."
Does that mean I can connect my Scythe Ultra to my mobo? I have the pump connected to the cpu_fan and the corsair to the PWR_fan. 
Would this work then? What if I were to plug in 2 scythes?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


all i can say as far as the "5 dots" go its not as effective as, spreading a pea size blob with a plastic card







the pea wins (sorry aussies, stop have hallucinations)


I reject your hallucinations and replace them with my own









Its all good. Everyone has their own way of doing stuff. If its working for you, then its good.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*

Does anyone know where I can find the maximum rated current draw from a gigabyte UD5P fan header?


Sorry buddy, google has failed me


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Can someone confirm if there is a mix of metals in the h50? aluminum, copper, brass?
Im going to use 1/4" brass barbs on the res. If there is a mix of metals, what additive do i need to get?
I dont want to mess anything up. What about an algae additive?


----------



## Killhouse

I cant remember if there is a mix of metals. I *think* its an aluminium rad and a copper block - but not 100% on that at all. As for the coolant, this is what comes in the H50 originally, taken from the corsair FAQ.

Q: What's the liquid inside the unit?
A: The liquid inside the H50 is distilled water with Propylene Glycol added to prevent corrosion and organic build-up.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Kill: so Propylene Glycol is antifreeze correct?
if it is aluminum rad, copper block and brass res barbs, what do i need to get for the mixed metals?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Kill: so Propylene Glycol is antifreeze correct?
if it is aluminum rad, copper block and brass res barbs, what do i need to get for the mixed metals?

Yes, it is indeed antifreeze - though check what else they put in the anti-freeze bottles, just in case.

I think that should suffice and you would not need to add anything. When people were modding their H50s a few pages back with custom res's they just used a distilled water/anti-freeze mix I believe. I really dont know what I'm talking about here though, so get someone to back me up








see below


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Kill: so Propylene Glycol is antifreeze correct?
if it is aluminum rad, copper block and brass res barbs, what do i need to get for the mixed metals?

A corosion inhibitor.


----------



## scrotes

bump, check it out just finished the mod would love to hear comments


----------



## tlxxxsracer

dkev: such as?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scrotes* 
bump, check it out just finished the mod would love to hear comments

Another fantastic mod! +rep Very nicely done and a lovely rig


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scrotes* 
bump, check it out just finished the mod would love to hear comments

Your the man! Very kewl


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr. Charles*


goonies........uhhhh....WHAT's with the temp on the CPU v core & the 12v rail???
.


The VCore looks normal, but the 12V reading needs some guessing. It depends on how the voltage is stepped down with external resistors to get it in the 0v to 2.048v range. Normally this would be a divider of 7, but it could be different for each motherboard model.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jeffro422*


So I asked if my Yate Loon d12sm-12 would be good enough in a push/pull setup and someone said yes..

Went out and bought 2 Ultra Kaze anyways for this setup, they're pretty big!

Pictures after install










That's nice of you to listen to me, NOT!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Does anyone know where I can find the maximum rated current draw from a gigabyte UD5P fan header? I want to hook up 2 fans that are rated at 0.51 amps each...


Your motherboard manual (that PDF) should list it. Even on my crappy one, I have 1A. The ROG boards got 2.5A or 3A. Intel boards also has high supply current.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


For my mobo it says "The fan connectors support cooling fans of 350mA-2000mA (24W max.) or a total of 1A07A (84W max) at +12V."
Does that mean I can connect my Scythe Ultra to my mobo? I have the pump connected to the cpu_fan and the corsair to the PWR_fan. 
Would this work then? What if I were to plug in 2 scythes?


It should work. From what I understand, you can draw up to 2A per header and 7A in total (I guess you have about 4/5 headers right?).


----------



## xquisit

Ok.. so I kind've remembered that my friend installing my H50.. twisted the h50 while applying pressure to get it on the CPU. He also flattened the TIM on the CPU using a business card, and applied the extra to the H50. He uses AS5 (80percent sure, because we both don't remember..he also said it's some expensive some at the time..and MX2 kind've looks like it so it's a great educated guess). I've been having some OCs problems.. and want to re-apply tim, and get some new fans (currently using CM R4s /w RED LEDs).

I'm sure this has been covered a billion times, but I'm sick and just have a headache using this CRT monitor. Can someone link me to some videos/picture guides that show me how to remove tim, and re-apply it on the H50? Please, I know it's an annoying thing to do..but I'm about to break down with pain :*(

I was thinking about buying the same TIM that the H50 comes with, but I'm willing to try whatever you guys recommend. Also, I *have* to take a picture of my current TIM..maybe you guys can evaluate if there are any air bubbles..or if it was applied excessively.

So what fan to buy (noise is not a problem, and I don't have a fan controller), and what TIM..and it wouldn't hurt to say I want to purchase these things online (so please a link would help a lot)?

Thank you so much for reading all this, it means a lot. *turns away from monitor, with a headache*


----------



## Killhouse

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *leppie*   Your motherboard manual (that PDF) should list it. Even on my crappy one, I have 1A. The ROG boards got 2.5A or 3A. Intel boards also has high supply current.  
It doesent, unfortunately. Grrr. Sent their support team an email though.

  
 YouTube- How to Apply Thermal Compound to a CPU  



 
 There's a nice video, remove the previous TIM with a lint-free cloth, it's easy. As for TIM - MX3 or AS5 are cheap and good, Shin Etsu and IC Diamond 7 are both more expensive but slightly better (Shin Etsu comes on the H50 originally).

Not really clued up on fans, the scythe 2ks are popular I think.


----------



## xquisit

Thanks pal, and do you think I should apply the TIM to the H50 or the CPU.

Side note: looks like he applied TIM the same way, hmmm... I still think mine might need a re-seat..just so I got one possible problem out of the way. Same concept with new fans, and TIM.


----------



## goonies

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dctokyo*


Nice set up, but IMHO you should turn your PSU around and let it get cool air from outside the case. Great case BTW, I owned the Raven 2 too










But my H50 is exhausting the hot air up out of the case. Wouldn't that blow the hot air right up into that fan then blow it across the radiator?

Oh and on those temps I cheated I had my window AC unit going it was a freezing 69F in my room.


----------



## Killhouse

You should apply it to the CPU because the block overlaps it, and you could get it in the wrong place. A much easier method (I find) for applying the TIM is just to place 5 small dots on the CPU (one in each corner, one in the middle). In order to not twist the unit you would have to seat the block and then tighten the ring around it afterwards. Unlike their seating technique which requires a twist.


----------



## xquisit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


You should apply it to the CPU because the block overlaps it, and you could get it in the wrong place. A much easier method (I find) for applying the TIM is just to place 5 small dots on the CPU (one in each corner, one in the middle). In order to not twist the unit you would have to seat the block and then tighten the ring around it afterwards. Unlike their seating technique which requires a twist.


So I'm confused.. what do you recommend me doing? applying the 5 dots, and just pushing the H50 down with some pressure..and quickly tightening it down..without moving it side to side (like im dancing in the club)?


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xquisit*


So I'm confused.. what do you recommend me doing? applying the 5 dots, and just pushing the H50 down with some pressure..and quickly tightening it down..without moving it side to side (like im dancing in the club)?


Moving it a little wont matter, it might even help spread it more even. I normally just twist it a few degrees left and right while pushing down. Then straighten, align and tighten up in X pattern.


----------



## xquisit

Ok + rep to you both, but I doubt my R4s are the best fan setup for push/pull.

What can I purchase online that would be the best? Or close to to it? Like I said noise isn't that much a problem, but I don't have a fan controller


----------



## Jeffro422

Wow, Ultra Kaze > radiator > Ultra Kaze is an extremely tight fit, mere millimeters away from so many things!

Pics after install like I said....literally taken while typing this


----------



## Aardvark54

Just got my H50 installed,will post pics/spec soon.
Thanks.


----------



## elo820

Everyones mod makes me want that video tutorial more and more!


----------



## Tennobanzai

Just got myself one. I can from a CM V8 and the temps are not much different. Seems to be a little higher at idle and little lower at load. I just love the look though, the extra space looks a lot better


----------



## xquisit

If you have a 965 C3 + H50 I would really appreciate you reading this to help me out. Like I would appreciate it to the fullest, and I might have an extra BFBC2 Beta key to give out. You might have to wait a day for me to figure out if I really do though







(My friend said he has 4, but he's not on ventrilo atm)

http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/65...-huge-56k.html
http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/65...iscussion.html


----------



## tlxxxsracer

So what anti-corrosion additive do I get? And it is okay to mix that with antifreeze?


----------



## HBrown140

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scrotes* 
bump, check it out just finished the mod would love to hear comments









Great Mod,Can you change the color of your fluid? IMHO,I think the green kinda throws your theme off.


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cyclometric*


Yeah, the fans are likely an issue. Right now I'm using an ACRyan Blackfire4 fan on the pull side, running @ 2000 rpm (supposed to be 79cfm) and on the push side the Xigmatek fan from the Dark Knight (dunno the model #) also @ 2000rpm (rated @ 81cfm); the Xigmatek I have read, has decent static pressure.


Update on my H50: I have replaced the mismatched fans with 2 Cooler Master R4 90CFMs, and have flipped them around to *exhaust* with shrouds on both, i.e.


> (case int) Push|Shroud→Rad→Shroud|Pull (case exterior)


Part of what made me switch to exhaust is that I installed a second GPU, so that I could use my GTX260 primarily for folding, and run my monitors off a 3870. My good results running as intake went out the window once I started folding more regularly, as Pings predicted: hot air out the back of the case got sucked right back in to the Rad intake... not good.

I did consider and might still try sometime, going back to intake, but putting a "snorkel" or duct on the intake, to get truly cool air, around the side of the case or something. Also considered trying to divert the flow of the GPU exhaust with a duct hose or something to keep that heat from intake.

Also, last night I remounted with ICD7, -- I was pretty shocked at seeing how thickly the stock TIM was. I ran the tube of ICD7 in *hot* water for 10 minutes, to really soften. Also heated CPU with blow dryer just before application. Burned in/cured with 2 hrs Prime95, max temp was 46 @ slight overclock of 3150 @ 1.3volts. I think the Diamond paste lowered temps 2-3 or so. I might pull it up in a day or two to see how it spread that way, and depending on what I see, apply differently... but that's an expensive way to satisfy my curiosity, so might not. FWIW, I hear the 5 dot or any other non-pea-sized method is can create air bubbles, which just makes the diamonds angry.

& now I'm thinking of a reservoir & tubing mod... has anyone considered these reservoirs? I wonder if they're too small. I was considering the Swiftech Micro but read some bad reviews on them (saying hard to mount, leaks)

Primochill 3.5 Bay Reservoir
Primochill 5" Round Reservoir

I'm wondering if they're too small to bother, or if they're well-sized for the H50 compact system. Price sure is right!


----------



## Killhouse

Nice update there, lots to think about with your ICD7. Looks like it really helped.

You won't need a big reservoir for the H50 - remember that it doesent have one to start with







One option is that you could install a T-line.

Quote:



Just got my H50 installed,will post pics/spec soon.
Thanks.


200 members


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Whats the best way to clean the tubes? Like before I make the loop, I clean the inside and out of the tubes to make sure theres no particles. Would normal tap water and soap be fine or will that mess the loop up?


----------



## Chr0n1c

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


200 members










Man, there's over 200 pages! I'm surprised there's _only_ 200 members.


----------



## Ocnewb

I just installed my H50 with S-Flex in pull n Xiggy in Push mode, i installed it as in-take setup. My temp drop from 44-47C idle - to 75C max load across the cores of i7 4Ghz (Core contact Freezer) to 32-34C idle - to 68C max load w/ the H50. I also notice that the Corsair fan might be better than the Xiggy so i think i will switch it to push fan.


----------



## malik22

Hi guys I have been using a True with my Q6600 im upgrading to a I7 920 will the H50 be good enough for an oce of 4.2-4.4ghz and will it fit in my antec 900 I have a high cfm fan that I use on my true that I would put on the H50.


----------



## Ocnewb

Quote:



Originally Posted by *malik22*


Hi guys I have been using a True with my Q6600 im upgrading to a I7 920 will the H50 be good enough for an oce of 4.2-4.4ghz and will it fit in my antec 900 I have a high cfm fan that I use on my true that I would put on the H50.


I have my i7 @ 4.1Ghz, installed the H50 yesterday and it's keeping my i7 around 33-35C idle and 68C max load, pretty good i must say. I think it won't have any problem fitting into ur antec 900.


----------



## TwistedTransistor

This thread is getting insanely big.


----------



## Killhouse

I didnt know what I was letting myself in for










It's nice how many members come back and discuss their experiences, you can learn so much just by picking a random page and reading


----------



## Aardvark54

Killhouse,I emailed Corsair to make them aware of this thread and the massive interest in the H50.The email was forwarded to the H50 product manager who was very pleased to hear how well the H50 has been received by the pc enthusiast community. You never know,their tech guys could start browsing this thread!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aardvark54*


Killhouse,I emailed Corsair to make them aware of this thread and the massive interest in the H50.The email was forwarded to the H50 product manager who was very pleased to hear how well the H50 has been received by the pc enthusiast community. You never know,their tech guys could start browsing this thread!


Thank you aardvark, I considered doing this myself but never got around to it









+rep


----------



## tlxxxsracer

*Face palm* oh goody.. then they'll see all of us modding the h50 and seeing us void the warranties.







LOL.
Can anyone answer my question from earlier, about the best way to clean the tubing before building the loop? Is there a certain way?


----------



## Aardvark54

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Thank you aardvark, I considered doing this myself but never got around to it









+rep










This is the email I got back from Corsair:

I've forwarded this to our H50 product manager and he was delighted to
see it as well.

I can't thank you enough to people like you who had been supporting our
name to the highest level. This is why we will keep working hard to keep
all our enthusiasts community happy and satisfied.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aardvark54* 
You never know,their tech guys could start browsing this thread!

I aint VERY surprise that all employees of Corsair did visit this.. I knew it already.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Whats the best way to clean the tubes? Like before I make the loop, I clean the inside and out of the tubes to make sure theres no particles. Would normal tap water and soap be fine or will that mess the loop up?

You can just use warm water to rinse them out. It will get any particles and small dust out


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
You can just use warm water to rinse them out. It will get any particles and small dust out









Okay, cool! thanks. I didnt know if i should use soap or anything.


----------



## Jeffro422

Damn I wanted to be #200







Add me


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Okay, cool! thanks. I didnt know if i should use soap or anything.

If you do seem some water spots after they're dry, try washing with some nice SPOT FREE (advertised) dish soap.

-- On another note: I'm thinking I'm going to hold off on my tutorial until I install a T-Line in the loop. From what I experienced, I do not want ANYONE to risk destroying their systems trying to fill a closed loop* setup.


----------



## Killhouse

Your already on there, #82 - alphabetical order


----------



## AAdjuster

Add me too.


----------



## elo820

I'm surprised Im not already added. Add me!


----------



## Jeffro422

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Your already on there, #82 - alphabetical order










Good call!









With the Ultra Kaze at 12v 3,000 rpm my 955 doesn't get above 41C. with 2 instances of Prime 95 running. Sickkk


----------



## Aardvark54

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


I aint VERY surprise that all employees of Corsair did visit this.. I knew it already.


Funny that,surely the corsair guy who replied to my email would have made it clear that they knew about this thread. Noticed you have started a thread on the corsair forum asking h50 owners to post pics of their setups ala our leader,Killhouse.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jeffro422*


Good call!









With the Ultra Kaze at 12v 3,000 rpm my 955 doesn't get above 41C. with 2 instances of Prime 95 running. Sickkk


Very nice, are you OC'd at all?


----------



## Jeffro422

That's 3.6 on stock voltage. Tonight I will go for 3.9, I'm not sure how well the RB-C2 955 overclocks


----------



## Killhouse

Alright, nice. I'm wondering what to expect from my 965 with some better fans - I can get 3.8 stable with my rubbish fans. So hopefully I can break 4Ghz.

I wonder if anyone can help clear this up for me, regarding voltages:
- If I increase Vcore, temperature goes up. If you put a better cooler on, the temperature goes down again, meaning you can increase Vcore further. Am I right?

- Yet I see people that seem to be able to drop their voltages once they put a nice cooler on it. I dont get this.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Alright, nice. I'm wondering what to expect from my 965 with some better fans - I can get 3.8 stable with my rubbish fans. So hopefully I can break 4Ghz.

I wonder if anyone can help clear this up for me, regarding voltages:
- If I increase Vcore, temperature goes up. If you put a better cooler on, the temperature goes down again, meaning you can increase Vcore further. Am I right?

- Yet I see people that seem to be able to drop their voltages once they put a nice cooler on it. I dont get this.










Cliffs Notes*

Heat causes instability in components, hence better cooling enables it to run at lower voltages (sometimes) and to hopefully maintain optimal temps & voltages for respective clock rates.

It's not guaranteed and your OC'ing is also greatly affected by your other components as well.

Fun stuff!


----------



## Killhouse

Thanks arbalest, +rep









So it seems better cooling allows for higher clocks _and_ lower relative voltages, yippee.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Thanks arbalest, +rep









So it seems better cooling allows for higher clocks _and_ lower relative voltages, yippee.


Thanks. Are you going to mod your H50?

I'm really really considering just throwing down a little more $$ and buying a bigger radiator to help cool the H50. I think temps would drop DRAMATICALLY for me if I did so.


----------



## Killhouse

I'm going to add either one or two of these. Feser Triebwerk 120x55mm radiator fans









If you're considering adding a bigger radiator you might want to look at the "Monsta" series, theyre very thick but I've read that they have very low flow resistance, which would be good for this pump unit.


----------



## arbalest

Niiice









Yeah, I'll look into that. I am going to be going for the whole "OEM Custom Build" kind of look.


----------



## malik22

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ocnewb*


I have my i7 @ 4.1Ghz, installed the H50 yesterday and it's keeping my i7 around 33-35C idle and 68C max load, pretty good i must say. I think it won't have any problem fitting into ur antec 900.



Thank you so would you say its better then a true?


----------



## mangosta

hey guys, im kinda new here and my H50 will be arriving next week just like my cm storm scout, and this is my question; i got already 2 scythe ultra kaze 3000rpm, will they do the job for a push/pull config? with a fan controller btw, im asking Â´cause i heard that if u undervolt these ultra kaze they make a weird and an unpleasant noise, is that true?


----------



## Killhouse

I've heard they make some clicking noises at lower voltages sometimes. If you already have the fans cant you just test them?









EDIT: and yes they will do the job very nicely!


----------



## iamwardicus

Well, sadly no pics (my camera is still dead) - but I lapped my H50 and my E2180 last night. I didn't get a fully mirrored surface (lack of patience) but I got things flattened out. My processor was very concave... took forever to get the middle of it down to the copper. The H50 I was impressed with. It was quite flat, didn't take too long to just smooth it out some. Sadly I have no idea if I got a temp drop because realtemp hasn't changed at all before/after - I still hit 50C when folding...


----------



## pez

Ok, well it's (H50) dropped my temps from about 38-40 while idling to 30-33 idling. Haven't tested load yet, but I DO have a high speed Yate Loon on it. (The one that's in my sig rig). Right now I'm sitting at 32C while in iTunes, and about 5-6 tabs open in Firefox. As well as Windows Live Messenger and AIM, and an Excel spreadsheet . So far I'm very satisfied with it. I hope it delivers under load.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I'm going to add either one or two of these. Feser Triebwerk 120x55mm radiator fans









If you're considering adding a bigger radiator you might want to look at the "Monsta" series, theyre very thick but I've read that they have very low flow resistance, which would be good for this pump unit.

Nice! Looking forward to seeing how well the improve your temps!


----------



## D3TH.GRUNT

add me







Pretty sweet cooler, now i think i have to relinquish my prolimatech club tho


----------



## CaptnBB

*For anyone wondering about mixed metals in the H50 and what additive to use.*

The rad is made of aluminum and the base is copper. Use only Distilled water and Antifreeze as it contains anti-corrosion and antibacterial ingredients. There is no need to add anything else to the loop!

When mixing, mix 90% distilled water and 10% antifreeze for the best results. More antifreeze is not always better. It may actually raise your temps.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CaptnBB* 
*For anyone wondering about mixed metals in the H50 and what additive to use.*

The rad is made of aluminum and the base is copper. Use only Distilled water and Antifreeze as it contains anti-corrosion and antibacterial ingredients. There is no need to add anything else to the loop!

When mixing, mix 90% distilled water and 10% antifreeze for the best results. More antifreeze is not always better. It may actually raise your temps.

Do you have a link for this info? Just so I can check myself because I see youre new the forums.


----------



## pez

Quick question. What screws do you guys use to mount the outside fans? And how much does it improve temps?

EDIT: Here's an hour of Prime95 with the H50 and the High Speed Yate.


----------



## PCSarge

id love to attempt a mod, my paycheck comes tommorow, so i need to know a few things would be getting a res, antifreeze, 2L distilled water, a northbridge waterblock, my 2 questions are as follows, what size of tubing and where to get it(a hardware store perhaps), and wether or not this pump can handle a new rad/ res set up, and any parts you reccomend,because i tend to buy anything i see


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Youll need 1/4" ID and 4/8" OD tubing.. You can buy that at Home depot. As far as like a 240 rad with the res and NB block, I dont know. Sexybastard tried a 240 and his pump almost died.
As far as the res goes the Swiftech microres http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24649
Because its small and it wont have as much head pressure. Youll also need to buy 1/4" barbs as well..


----------



## CaptnBB

I can't believe your asking for a source for the info from me because I'm new to This forum. Google, Yahoo.com, Xtreme systems forum, Extreme overclocking forum and many others all share this common knowledge. Just because I'm new doesn't mean I'm clueless.









Quote:

id love to attempt a mod, my paycheck comes tommorow, so i need to know a few things would be getting a res, antifreeze, 2L distilled water, a northbridge waterblock, my 2 questions are as follows, what size of tubing and where to get it(a hardware store perhaps), and wether or not this pump can handle a new rad/ res set up, and any parts you reccomend,because i tend to buy anything i see
I recommend more then 2L of water just in case. It's easiest with 1/4"ID 3/8"OD (6mmID 9mmOD)tubing, yes you can get it at a hardware store. A larger rda might be too much but this is unconfirmed 100%. There have been a few ppl use a 140 rad and the pump has died but it could have been a few other things that killed it at the same time.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

No hard feelings.. Killhouse wasnt exactly sure.. I just wanna be sure before I go doing something, not like I have an unlimited budget.


----------



## CaptnBB

None prob here. I know what its like having a limited budget. Heck that's why I have an H50. I'm building up my WC setup over time.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Ya true. Eventually Ill get a WC system, but this will do for now. I was thinking if a gpu block would be too much. LOL Or am I getting over-zealous?







Youd need a bigger rad, then in that case right?

Im still waiting on the final package to arrive, then I can start the mod. Like I promised Ill be doing a video tutorial. So bear with me







I cleaned the tubing today, lol. I have to do something


----------



## CaptnBB

yeah, a gpu block would definitely need a bigger rad. I too am waiting for the mail to arrive with more goodies. Then I can finish this thing and post pics.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Figured. Yah, the most important thing Im waiting on.. the res







I dont like to start a project then leave it because I dont have it.. Plus not using my computer till im done, cant stand it..
I think I decided where im going to mount the res. Going at the top behind the drive bays off center to the intake duct, so cool air is blowing against it some. Help cool it too?


----------



## PCSarge

if you wanna see tightly crammed space, take a look at my rig pics









and might i say, welcome to my world of fans







, fitting a mod in this case is gonna be fun lmao









for people who say "put shrouds in" i ask you now... what space do you see for shrouds?


----------



## arbalest

Ok, so I came across some hella cool stuff at Micro Center, and I"m going to tear down my WC setup in a few and redo it... Complete new set of pics and tutorial I'm gonna write.









Stay tuned!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
if you wanna see tightly crammed space, take a look at my rig pics









and might i say, welcome to my world of fans







, fitting a mod in this case is gonna be fun lmao









for people who say "put shrouds in" i ask you now... what space do you see for shrouds?

Cablez! Do something about them!









Nice rig though, I like the cooling you have on your NB.


----------



## PCSarge

killhouse i tried, theres just not enough room to cable tie it all to the back of the case







send me a bigger case and we'll talk lmao









anyways, i like my little vantec NB fan, it keeps my NB at about 26C, pretty scary for that tiny fan right (that temp is according to mobo temp probe)

some of you may shun me, but i do still have an IDE HDD







, its gone thru 3 pc rebuilds, over quite a few yrs, and is still running strong


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
Ok, so I came across some hella cool stuff at Micro Center, and I"m going to tear down my WC setup in a few and redo it... Complete new set of pics and tutorial I'm gonna write.









What is this cool stuff you speak of?


----------



## CaptnBB

what res did you order for you rig tlxxxsracer?


----------



## Killhouse

Some of you will be familiar with the case I'm operating in, my own acrylic build. Link to the worklog is in my sig. It's still in progress.

I installed my front case fans today, something which I've not been able to do until now. And my top exhaust is resting on top of the case until I get some longer screws. Anyway, the 4 intake fans are Yate loon midspeeds, as is my HD exhaust which you cant see. The top fan is an antec bigboy200, and I have the corsair fan pushing on my rad with an Antec Tri-cool in pull.

Thought I would run some temperature checks, let me know what you think.

*Ambient 26 C
Idle 26 C
Load 42 C*

Very very happy


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


What is this cool stuff you speak of?


Fillport plug (danger den) and 1/4 to 3/8 compression fittings from thermaltake


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CaptnBB*


what res did you order for you rig tlxxxsracer?


I ordered the swiftech microres rev.2. Its only like 25$ Im possibly going to order a NB block, RAM, or mosfets block later on.

Ahh. The micro res comes with a fillport







ya i can see the fittings would be nice, but the barbs will restrict the nice flow in the 3/8 tubing. All that water will have to constrict to a 1/4 diameter, wont do much. IMO


----------



## CaptnBB

Nice, I was going to go with the swiftech but I decided to go with the EK Multioption 150. I was going to go with the 3/8ID tubing but found it too risky sealing the 3/8ID onto the barbs. (I did try and have the fittings all here.) I'm waiting for my 1/4ID-3/8OD bitspower compression fittings to arrive along with a few other items. Hopefully tomorrow.


----------



## arbalest

*QUESTION:*

Where is the optimal place to put a T-Line? I understand BEFORE the pump is best... Any thoughts? It will already be the highest spot in my loop, but I need to know if I can get away with having it after the pump, due to aesthetic appeal.

Thanks


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Some of you will be familiar with the case I'm operating in, my own acrylic build. Link to the worklog is in my sig. It's still in progress.

I installed my front case fans today, something which I've not been able to do until now. And my top exhaust is resting on top of the case until I get some longer screws. Anyway, the 4 intake fans are Yate loon midspeeds, as is my HD exhaust which you cant see. The top fan is an antec bigboy200, and I have the corsair fan pushing on my rad with an Antec Tri-cool in pull.

Thought I would run some temperature checks, let me know what you think.

*Ambient 26 C
Idle 26 C
Load 42 C*

Very very happy










Dude, thats insane,,, I love your work!


----------



## Killhouse

Cheers sethy









I'm still wondering which fans to put on my radiator. I'm not able to use a conventional fan controller in my case which is rather limiting - anything I use would have to be controlled by PWM on the motherboard.

I could use one of the Feser 55mm's I linked earlier on, but I dont know if the results would be that good because I'd probably only get 1 for a few reasons:
-only 1 will fit inside the case, a 2nd would have to be externally mounted
-they are Â£25 each
-daisy chaining two onto the CPU_FAN header is very slightly above the rated power of the board

My case is slight different in that I only have 57mm+rad inside the case, so I think that going with a single feser triebwerk might be good.


----------



## Jeffro422

So far so good


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jeffro422*


So far so good

























Nice! Hope prime95 makes it through!


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Some of you will be familiar with the case I'm operating in, my own acrylic build. Link to the worklog is in my sig. It's still in progress.

I installed my front case fans today, something which I've not been able to do until now. And my top exhaust is resting on top of the case until I get some longer screws. Anyway, the 4 intake fans are Yate loon midspeeds, as is my HD exhaust which you cant see. The top fan is an antec bigboy200, and I have the corsair fan pushing on my rad with an Antec Tri-cool in pull.

Thought I would run some temperature checks, let me know what you think.

*Ambient 26 C
Idle 26 C
Load 42 C*

Very very happy









[IMGhttp://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q252/jamesnhawkes/ORANGE%20AND%20PURPLE%204/DSC00418.jpg[/IMG]
[IMGhttp://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q252/jamesnhawkes/ORANGE%20AND%20PURPLE%204/IBT1.png[/IMG]

awesome work Killhouse. Looks great and those temps are epic!

+1


----------



## goonies

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr. Charles* 
goonies........uhhhh....WHAT's with the temp on the CPU v core & the 12v rail???

mr. Charles .









.

I think the vcore/vcc voltage was right. It's because the processor idles around 1.2ghz with EIST, C1E, & Turbo Boost enabled. When idle it uses less power, and when in a load state ramps the speed up consuming more power. Did I explain this correctly guys?

These are my motherboard manual definitions for those 3 features.



















Even right now with CPU-Z it's showing 0.856 Core Voltage at 1203.MHz.


----------



## mr-Charles

....Great information for I did not know about's......[4 on the Intel side_note], but again,
thanx for that self-explanitory info from your manual.....& sharing with all of us out here...







. . .
. . .{this i will half to keep in the back of my mind_







}.......rep's to ya . . . .

mr. Charles .









.


----------



## mr-Charles

......only other question that comes to mind of these Power Saving App's = Do you need to Disable these
when you are into Oc'ng ???? Or, Are you just running these Enabled in stock mode, mainly/only???

mr. Charles .









.


----------



## PCPaladin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Very nice, is that everest pro?

Looks like HWMonitor, from the same great people who brought us CPU-Z.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
... I'm not able to use a conventional fan controller in my case which is rather limiting - anything I use would have to be controlled by PWM on the motherboard.

I saw an external fan controller at Microcentre, maybe you can find something in your area. UPC is 854224001332.


----------



## goonies

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr. Charles* 
......only other question that comes to mind of these Power Saving App's = Do you need to Disable these
when you are into Oc'ng ???? Or, Are you just running these Enabled in stock mode, mainly/only???

mr. Charles .









.

Yes you have to disable them that is actually how I figured out what it all meant when I was learning how to overclock the 1156 i5 750, hence the day late reply.


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr. Charles* 
......only other question that comes to mind of these Power Saving App's = Do you need to Disable these
when you are into Oc'ng ???? Or, Are you just running these Enabled in stock mode, mainly/only???

mr. Charles .









.

You might want to check out PhenomMSRTweaker or K10Stat. I use the former, and it allows me to:

In BIOS, disable Cool N Quiet and leave the CPU Multi to "Auto". (Normally, with CnQ enabled, you can only OC via the Frequency, i.e. CPU-NB. PhenomMSRTweaker allows you to manually set the multiplier to whatever you want, at runtime.
Adjust 3 different power states, or "P-States", depending on the CPU load.
In those p-states, the following can be adjusted: CPU Multiplier (for each individual core), CPU Voltage, and the CPU-NB Voltage. Note that the CPU-NB frequency cannot be changed, so you have to live with whatever it is in BIOS for both under- and over-clocked states.
Also at runtime, can change the power state from Balanced (self-adjusts dep. on load), to High Performance (highest OC), to Power Saving (low setting).
When I run stress or testing for temps and stability, I turn off the PhenomMSRTweaker service, and manually set the OC in BIOS. The main thread about the tool can be found here, and K10Stat, which I haven't personally used, is here.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyclometric* 
You might want to check out PhenomMSRTweaker or K10Stat. I use the former, and it allows me to:

In BIOS, disable Cool N Quiet and leave the CPU Multi to "Auto". (Normally, with CnQ enabled, you can only OC via the Frequency, i.e. CPU-NB. PhenomMSRTweaker allows you to manually set the multiplier to whatever you want, at runtime.
Adjust 3 different power states, or "P-States", depending on the CPU load.
In those p-states, the following can be adjusted: CPU Multiplier (for each individual core), CPU Voltage, and the CPU-NB Voltage. Note that the CPU-NB frequency cannot be changed, so you have to live with whatever it is in BIOS for both under- and over-clocked states.
Also at runtime, can change the power state from Balanced (self-adjusts dep. on load), to High Performance (highest OC), to Power Saving (low setting).
When I run stress or testing for temps and stability, I turn off the PhenomMSRTweaker service, and manually set the OC in BIOS. The main thread about the tool can be found here, and K10Stat, which I haven't personally used, is here.

>>>>> thnx for this helpful Information & Link-sight, pertaining to "my 2 system's_CPU's" for in my profile . .







. . . rep's to you as well, cyclometric









mr. Charles .









.


----------



## arbalest

My *NEW* and *IMPROVED H50 Mod* -- _*Tube Mod + Northbridge Loop + T-Line/Fillport*

Sorry for the terrible pics... All I have is my Blackberry ATM.









_



























Hope you enjoy these! Still lots of tiny bubbles as the system is still bleeding









Tutorial should be done by Monday or so. Have a lot of stuff to get done this weekend.

-Arbalest


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
***Reserved for New H50 Mod Pictures***










.......SOooooo, WHERE's the NEW - Pic's?????


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr. Charles* 
.......SOooooo, WHERE's the NEW - Pic's?????










Above you!


----------



## CaptnBB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
*QUESTION:*

Where is the optimal place to put a T-Line? I understand BEFORE the pump is best... Any thoughts? It will already be the highest spot in my loop, but I need to know if I can get away with having it after the pump, due to aesthetic appeal.

Thanks

You can technically put the t-line anywhere in the loop. Having in right before the pump just makes it easier to prime the system and therefore is usually the best place for it.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
Above you!










.....they just now popp'd up........GORGIOUS ! ! ! , Hey those are pretty good pic's for being from your Blkbrry-cam ! ! BUT, still _*GREAT mod job & Pic's of*_ . . . . .







.....{ all it said for while there was " Reserved for the New Pic's...etc" ...







}


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr. Charles* 
.....they just now popp'd up........GORGIOUS ! ! ! , Hey those are pretty good pic's for being from your Blkbrry-cam ! ! BUT, still _*GREAT mod job & Pic's of*_ . . . . .







.....{ all it said for while there was " Reserved for the New Pic's...etc" ...







}

Thank you much! I worked on it for about 5hrs straight... Lots of brainstorming and drawing in my head! I think it turned out awesome!

Now I'm going to focus my attention on cable management and case painting







Maybe some LED fans to get the Water glowing


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
My *NEW* and *IMPROVED H50 Mod* --_ *Tube Mod + Northbridge Loop + T-Line/Fillport*

Sorry for the terrible pics... All I have is my Blackberry ATM.

Hope you enjoy these! Still lots of tiny bubbles as the system is still bleeding









Tutorial should be done by Monday or so. Have a lot of stuff to get done this weekend.

-Arbalest
_
_
_
_
I really admire your HOP up is there.

anyway I believe that your bleeding is done, but I advice you, should open of fillport while your pc runnings for two days. there will disappear of bubble in tube, trust my words. How do I know? I have T-line runs in my another *WC LOOP RIG* is more performance!_


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
I really admire your HOP up is there.

anyway I believe that your bleeding is done, but I advice you, should open of fillport while your pc runnings for two days. there will disappear of bubble in tube, trust my words. How do I know? I have T-line runs in my another *WC LOOP RIG* is more performance!

Cool. Will do! +Rep for that info!


----------



## sexybastard

very nice mod arbalest

+rep


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


very nice mod arbalest

+rep


THank you very much! I appreciate all the kind words!


----------



## CaptnBB

I'm very interested to see what your temps are like. Post when you know please. The mod looks great.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CaptnBB*


I'm very interested to see what your temps are like. Post when you know please. The mod looks great.


Thanks.

Q9400 @ 3.6GHz -- 1.34vcore

Idle - 30c
Load - 56c (Intel Burn Test//High 10 Passes)

Temps aren't that great as my Q9400 has ALWAYS run hot







Of course my vcore is a little high for 3.6, but I just got this MoBo, so just throwing some juice in it to get the clockrate up while I tinker with it









I expect some pretty big things, but I may swap this out for a Q9550 real soon!


----------



## CaptnBB

Very nice. I had hit 4.0ghz in the past with my system but the temperatures were holding me back. Once I get this thing finished I should be okay for 4.0 hopefully for 24/7.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CaptnBB*


Very nice. I had hit 4.0ghz in the past with my system but the temperatures were holding me back. Once I get this thing finished I should be okay for 4.0 hopefully for 24/7.


Yeah, I did 4GHz with my P5QC, but this X38 board is a LOT different. Sooo many NEW things to learn with this board









I'm totally comfortable with 24/7 use as long as my temps are below 60c-65c at full load. I'm more concerned about Noise than super cold temps.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCPaladin*


Looks like HWMonitor, from the same great people who brought us CPU-Z.








I saw an external fan controller at Microcentre, maybe you can find something in your area. UPC is 854224001332.


Cheers, +rep







I'll take a look around.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


My* NEW* and *IMPROVED H50 Mod* --_ *Tube Mod + Northbridge Loop + T-Line/Fillport*

Sorry for the terrible pics... All I have is my Blackberry ATM.

Hope you enjoy these! Still lots of tiny bubbles as the system is still bleeding









Tutorial should be done by Monday or so. Have a lot of stuff to get done this weekend.

-Arbalest

_
_
_
_
__
Siiiiick, you work so fast. Love the mod again!_


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Siiiiick, you work so fast. Love the mod again!


Thanks! I think this one is just much more polished and classy... I think it says Custom, but not not like *over the top* custom.. you know?

Now I have to order a football field's worth of sleeving and get busy









Anyways, I plan on having my writeup done Monday or so... Gotta go home and visit the folks this weekend.

I'll catch you all later! Thanks for the all the positive feedback!

Arbalest


----------



## pez

Guys, question. What size are the black screws that are used to attach the fan to the rad? I want to buy longer screws so I can put a shroud between my fan and the rad. It's causing a LOT of noise with my high speed Yate being directly on it.


----------



## AAdjuster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Guys, question. What size are the black screws that are used to attach the fan to the rad? I want to buy longer screws so I can put a shroud between my fan and the rad. It's causing a LOT of noise with my high speed Yate being directly on it.



The screws are 6x32 1 1/4 long.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AAdjuster* 
The screws are 6x32 1 1/4 long.

Alright, 6x32 was what I needed. I'll probably need something about twice that or more.

On the rad, could the included black screws go all the way through the rad holes? Or is it closed on each side?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Alright, 6x32 was what I needed. I'll probably need something about twice that or more.

On the rad, could the included black screws go all the way through the rad holes? Or is it closed on each side?

There are fins behind the screw mounts and going all the way through the radiator will cause some damage to it.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


There are fins behind the screw mounts and going all the way through the radiator will cause some damage to it.


Ah, seems I'll need two sets of screws then.

Hmmm, I may end up just getting another high speed yate and doing push pull. Maybe two mediums and then that'll reduce the noise. Haven't figured out exactly how I wanna do it yet.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I got my res and 2 shrouds in today.. So far Ive mounted the res, to get an idea of tubing.
I drilled two holes into the lip of the bay drives. The side window fits on too and looks great. Heres a few pics of it. I took everything out, because of the metal shavings while drilling.
Next step is to lap the cpu and h50. From there, Cut the tubing to the length needed.


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Ah, seems I'll need two sets of screws then.

Hmmm, I may end up just getting another high speed yate and doing push pull. Maybe two mediums and then that'll reduce the noise. Haven't figured out exactly how I wanna do it yet.

the noctua P12's work great and they're near silent


----------



## PCSarge

i'm going shopping for a new case and HDD this weekend, as i'm running on my backup, my main one died after 7 years of long and tortured service ( it was a samsung, the backup is the raptor in my pc specs) anyways, take a look around at this website Http://www.tigerdirect.ca and tell me what case and HDD would be best, i have a 600 dollar spending limit


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i'm going shopping for a new case and HDD this weekend, as i'm running on my backup, my main one died after 7 years of long and tortured service ( it was a samsung, the backup is the raptor in my pc specs) anyways, take a look around at this website Http://www.tigerdirect.ca and tell me what case and HDD would be best, i have a 600 dollar spending limit










corsair 800D Obsidian says me!


----------



## PCSarge

spyke, they has a limited selection, and a store an hour from me, hate to say it but until i bought my H50 i didnt really trust corsair i ended up with some defective "banana" ram from them where the ram sticks were bent like a banana in the package















'm not putting them down at all, i just dont completely trust them on the same level as i do thermaltake and other major brands.

would this case be good enough not to have a crammed setup?
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...046&CatId=1509


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
spyke, they has a limited selection, and a store an hour from me, hate to say it but until i bought my H50 i didnt really trust corsair i ended up with some defective "banana" ram from them where the ram sticks were bent like a banana in the package














'm not putting them down at all, i just dont completely trust them on the same level as i do thermaltake and other major brands.

would this case be good enough not to have a crammed setup?
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...046&CatId=1509


http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...703&CatId=1510

Limited selection? It's right there. Trust them or not that case is taking it's class by the balls by being one of the best. The case is simple massive and does everyting right.


----------



## PCSarge

spyke is crazy  i need some money left over man, i intend to get a quad core CPU, more RAM, and a couple new HDDs (dunno how long this old IDE backup drive will last)


----------



## Pings

I love my 800D this thing is huge. For the PCSarge, 1st off Corsair doesn't make the H50 Asetek does. So it not about trusting Corsair. 2nd any thing can be defective right out the box, that could have been the same for any brand in your SIG rig.

More info on Asetek coolers:

Asetek makes the H50. Asetek also makes there own brand coolers. There is the Asetek LCLC and the Asetek LCLC 240MM Radiator. I've seen someone post another OEM LCLC 240mm from some random brand I never herd of. But, they're out there. From what I understand the H50 has water inside them and the Asetek brand has a some sort of a liquid cooling fluid.

"*Asetekâ€™s factory sealed liquid cooling system is specifically designed to exhaust CPU heat directly outside of the chassis.*" - Asetek


----------



## PCSarge

make note, i need to buy other parts, and idk if i should get a full tower... doubt itll fit under my desk lmao and its too bad they havent invented a case with 1 5 1/2 bay an hdd bay, and 1 3 1/2 bay for my fan controller.. cause thats all i need...lol

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...778&CatId=1864
that case comes with installed liquid cooling, and is less money







and its thermaltake


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
spyke is crazy  i need some money left over man, i intend to get a quad core CPU, more RAM, and a couple new HDDs (dunno how long this old IDE backup drive will last)

Here you go.
http://ncix.com/products/index.php?s...acture=LIAN-LI


----------



## Pings

Speaking of not trusting brands I've had a Thermaltake liquid cooling kit leak right out the box. PCSarge it's time to start your own post. Lets get back to the H50.


----------



## PCSarge

i'm gonna stop bothering to ask for opinions now and decide myself what to get cause i am not crazy enough to spend 369 + tax (around 400 dollars) on just a case because that rounds down what quality of HDDs i can get, and wether or not i can get more RAM so thanks for chewing me out...not appreciated























i was also intending to buy windows 7 64 bit but why mention that, its gonna be around 190 bucks alone


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i'm gonna stop bothering to ask for opinions now and decide myself what to get cause i am not crazy enough to spend 369 + tax (around 400 dollars) on just a case because that rounds down what quality of HDDs i can get, and wether or not i can get more RAM so thanks for chewing me out...not appreciated























i was also intending to buy windows 7 64 bit but why mention that, its gonna be around 190 bucks alone










If you direct you question in the right topic, I willing to bet you will more than get your answer and get it fast than under "Water Cooling".


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
Speaking of not trusting brands I've had a Thermaltake liquid cooling kit leak right out the box. PCSarge it's time to start your own post. Lets get back to the H50.

lol you and about everyone else has had thermal take leak on em


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i'm gonna stop bothering to ask for opinions now and decide myself what to get cause i am not crazy enough to spend 369 + tax (around 400 dollars) on just a case because that rounds down what quality of HDDs i can get, and wether or not i can get more RAM so thanks for chewing me out...not appreciated























i was also intending to buy windows 7 64 bit but why mention that, its gonna be around 190 bucks alone










You could always build your own ... I got just what I wanted from mine


----------



## Jeffro422

Are these good temps for this overclock


----------



## Killhouse

No really, very nice! What are your ambients?


----------



## Jeffro422

Well it's winter, and the window is open and these Ultra Kaze's are sucking air from the window. I had to try this out, I knew it'd be crazy. I'm idling at 17 C.


----------



## Scart

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jeffro422*


Well it's winter, and the window is open and these Ultra Kaze's are sucking air from the window. I had to try this out, I knew it'd be crazy. I'm idling at 17 C.


what is ur case temp and room temp ? do u have mits on









my room is 25C.. cpu is 33C case temp 27. last week my cpu would sit at 26C so i'm stuffed as wot broke, maybe from a o/c @ 4180.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*


the noctua P12's work great and they're near silent


Eh, my thing is the stock fan and the Noctua are similar in RPM. The stock fan didn't seem to wanna push much air either, so that's why I put the high speed yate on there. It wasn't as loud on the Xiggy because it wasn't on a rad, which is why I'm trying to find a way to put a shroud on without putting too much weight on the rad.

Also, do you guys suggest making the fan an intake like the manual suggests, or just turn the fan around and make it an exhaust. It's not a big deal if intake as my case's top fan is a nice 200mm fan that by spec supposedly pushes 142 CFM. I just want to get an idea of how I would do a shroud...preferrable without putting anything outside of the case.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Also, do you guys suggest making the fan an intake like the manual suggests, or just turn the fan around and make it an exhaust. It's not a big deal if intake as my case's top fan is a nice 200mm fan that by spec supposedly pushes 142 CFM. I just want to get an idea of how I would do a shroud...preferrable without putting anything outside of the case.


With a topfan like that you should see nice temps on intake without worrying too much but it depends a bit on the overall airflow in your case. You won't see massive differences either way


----------



## Jeffro422

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Scart*


what is ur case temp and room temp ? do u have mits on









my room is 25C.. cpu is 33C case temp 27. last week my cpu would sit at 26C so i'm stuffed as wot broke, maybe from a o/c @ 4180.



Surprisingly the room is still probably 65 F.










22 C. is 1500RPM 15 C. is 3000RPM


----------



## arbalest

Jeffro, your temps are awesome! I wish I could pull that, but my Q9400 is HOT!


----------



## Capwn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jeffro422*


Surprisingly the room is still probably 65 F.










22 C. is 1500RPM 15 C. is 3000RPM


Sub Ambient temps??? I'm sorry I call bS. 
 Celsius to Fahrenheit Chart


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


With a topfan like that you should see nice temps on intake without worrying too much but it depends a bit on the overall airflow in your case. You won't see massive differences either way










Yeah, I'm just trying to figure out a good push/pull, or just a shroud setup. I wouldn't mind putting another fan on the inside to add as a pull for further intake, but I do have a question. Does the fan that comes with the corsair just generally "suck"? When I first installed it with that fan (which I actually did have hooked up to the mobo fan connection) my temps at idle were about 40-42 which was quickly solved by the yate. I'm wondering if I would be able to put a low or medium speed yate push/pull on there and get the same temps I am now?


----------



## Killhouse

http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=65F...ient=firefox-a

Only 1C below ambient, just a slight misreading on one end or another. Ambient idle is perfectly possible.


----------



## Capwn

lol NO . The fan does not "suck" . At full speed it actually moves quite a bit of air. Its no top-0-the line fan or anything but it does its job well. Im using it as my pull fan with an R4 as intake.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Yeah, I'm just trying to figure out a good push/pull, or just a shroud setup. I wouldn't mind putting another fan on the inside to add as a pull for further intake, but I do have a question. Does the fan that comes with the corsair just generally "suck"? When I first installed it with that fan (which I actually did have hooked up to the mobo fan connection) my temps at idle were about 40-42 which was quickly solved by the yate. I'm wondering if I would be able to put a low or medium speed yate push/pull on there and get the same temps I am now?


I think the Corsair fan isn't the greatest due to a lower static pressure, hence why a shroud helps a LOT with the stock fan setup.

I'm only running the Corsair fan as a Pull Fan until I get a Yate as the Pull to my Ultra Kaze Push fan


----------



## Jeffro422

I made it!! 4Ghz!


----------



## Killhouse

are you doing it all with overdrive?


----------



## Jeffro422

For these tests, yes.

Setup for getting this cold...


----------



## Killhouse

That's pretty nice - what happens if your OC is unstable with overdrive (ie system crash)? Does it reset all your settings? Been tempted to use it for finding my settings before making them permanent in the BIOS.


----------



## pez

Ok, I think I'm gonna order 2 of these (low speed/low noise version of my current fan w/ blue LEDS) and do push/pull. I'm gonna go to Lowe's tomorrow (if the roads aren't terrible) and get the 6-32 1 1/4" screws (only carry a 100pc for 5 bucks lol) and end up spending about $20 bucks more. It seems people rely on the screws though a lot to hold up the pull fan, the rad, and then the push fan. Is this safe? It seems like the rad has a little bit of weight to it. That's my only concern really...and if the aforementioned fans in push/pull setup (I'm gonna change it to exhaust) will do a better or at least as good a job as my one high speed yate.

Also, killhouse, what speed are you running your Tricools in push/pull? L/M/H?


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Ok, I think I'm gonna order 2 of these (low speed/low noise version of my current fan w/ blue LEDS) and do push/pull. I'm gonna go to Lowe's tomorrow (if the roads aren't terrible) and get the 6-32 1 1/4" screws (only carry a 100pc for 5 bucks lol) and end up spending about $20 bucks more. It seems people rely on the screws though a lot to hold up the pull fan, the rad, and then the push fan. Is this safe? It seems like the rad has a little bit of weight to it. That's my only concern really...and if the aforementioned fans in push/pull setup (I'm gonna change it to exhaust) will do a better or at least as good a job as my one high speed yate.

Also, killhouse, what speed are you running your Tricools in push/pull? L/M/H?

You'll be fine. You can get the packs of #6-32 screws for about $2 for a set of 4-6 I believe.

No worries about the weight, as the screws can handle much much more than that


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
You'll be fine. You can get the packs of #6-32 screws for about $2 for a set of 4-6 I believe.

No worries about the weight, as the screws can handle much much more than that









Yeah, the included screws seem to be sturdy enough for their purpose, but the store bought ones seem to be sturdier to hold all of the bulk. *sigh* Here goes another $21 lol.

Still waiting on killhouse's response on those fans







.

EDIT: Actually, is there another way to reduce the noise? I really don't mind the noise as much as I make it seem and I don't really think it's worth $21 to reduce it. Would a rubber ring reduce it, or is it just really the fact that the fan is so close to the rad? And how are you guys putting it as exhaust? Wouldn't you need custom screws for this?

Sorry for all the questions, just trying to get it all down while I've got the money









And killhouse, you didn't add me yet


----------



## Jeffro422

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
That's pretty nice - what happens if your OC is unstable with overdrive (ie system crash)? Does it reset all your settings? Been tempted to use it for finding my settings before making them permanent in the BIOS.


Freezes/restarts and restores bios settings which for me is 3.6GHz on 1.35v


----------



## RonindeBeatrice

This thread has an absurd number of replies for being just a couple months old. I suppose you can add me to the list







I picked the cooler up at BB for $60 last night. I haven't had the opportunity to install yet, but I would like to note that the cooler they have in stock at BB does indeed have all the mounts (775,AM2,1156,1366).


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RonindeBeatrice* 
This thread has an absurd number of replies for being just a couple months old. I suppose you can add me to the list







I picked the cooler up at BB for $60 last night. I haven't had the opportunity to install yet, but I would like to note that the cooler they have in stock at BB does indeed have all the mounts (775,AM2,1156,1366).

Yep, all new boxes (item number H50-1) ship with all the brackets. Welcome to the huge club, I'll add you now


----------



## Jeffro422

Do you think with such cold temps at 1.5 vcore that I could bump it up safely?

Anyone?


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Yeah, the included screws seem to be sturdy enough for their purpose, but the store bought ones seem to be sturdier to hold all of the bulk. *sigh* Here goes another $21 lol.

Still waiting on killhouse's response on those fans







.

EDIT: Actually, is there another way to reduce the noise? I really don't mind the noise as much as I make it seem and I don't really think it's worth $21 to reduce it. Would a rubber ring reduce it, or is it just really the fact that the fan is so close to the rad? And how are you guys putting it as exhaust? Wouldn't you need custom screws for this?

Sorry for all the questions, just trying to get it all down while I've got the money









And killhouse, you didn't add me yet










Just make a Shroud out of an old fan







-- lowers noise and provides better cooling!


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jeffro422* 
Do you think with such cold temps at 1.5 vcore that I could bump it up safely?

Anyone?

Safely? No idea... depends. But you're sure to get the "know-it-all" people to chime in and give you a HUUUUGE lecture on why anything over 1.4vcore will degrade your chip and yada yada yada...

Now, I really wouldn't recommend going over 1.5v for anything but suicide benches, cuz cpus aren't exactly cheap.


----------



## Killhouse

Sorry totally missed that.

I run the tri-cool on Low, it matches the normal speed of corsair fan. Bump it up to full for stress testing though this is by no means a permanent solution. Looking to upgrade my fans.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Ive been working on the mod. Going great so far. Heres what it looks like with the tubes on the pump and one on the rad. I installed the fans, rad, shrouds and res to get the tubing length.
Tomorrow: Lap cpu and h50, put anti-kink coils on, connect tubes and hopefully do a leak test.
I started the tutorial video: tubes, cutting tubes, and opening pump. Im doing it in segments then putting it all together. Tomorrow ill do the vid on the loop layout, and attaching tubes and probably a lap tutorial

Pics...

Question, the tube on the left (near the C in Corsair) that goes to the res or the rad?


----------



## Turgin

I don't even have the H50 yet but am so interested that I've read this entire thread today. Well, interested and also stuck in another state due to canceled flights









Amazingly bored. At least I have my laptop and wireless.

Actually do have a question...why are so many people choosing the Scythe GT over the S-Flex? Specs say the S-Flex is better. I've looked at both at MicroCenter and the S-Flex seems to be superior. Is it noise?


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Sorry totally missed that.

I run the tri-cool on Low, it matches the normal speed of corsair fan. Bump it up to full for stress testing though this is by no means a permanent solution. Looking to upgrade my fans.

Ah, ok. When I had a Xiggy, I tried a Tri-Cool on it and to me they were terrible for a heatsink fan so it makes me think it wouldn't be much better for a rad. I bet once you get better fans your temps will drop more, but as I read earlier in this thread, your temps are similar to mine with the exception that you have a higher load temp by about 2C.


----------



## jalyst

Does Corsair have plans for a revised version of this soon? 
It's not quite as good (cooling wise) as one would expect. 
I mean it's great, but for water I was hoping for a little better.


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jalyst*


Does Corsair have plans for a revised version of this soon? 
It's not quite as good (cooling wise) as one would expect. 
I mean it's great, but for water I was hoping for a little better.


Well it is called the Hydro Series, so that could possibly mean that there's more to come. You have to take into consideration to get much better results than this thing with a custom loop would probably cost twice as much. As a matter of fact, it would cost more than twice as much as I priced out a WC build for me not too long ago just for my CPU. For the price it does it's job. Spend 15 bucks more and buy better fans and put shrouds on it and it does a little better.


----------



## jalyst

Yeah I'm thinking of getting it instead of an air cooler, for this build...

I guess it won't be as good as VX or D14 which are apparently the best now.
But hopefully it won't be heaps worse, and it'd definitely be less space wasting/cumbersome.

Only prob. is, I don't think my old Lian-Li has any 120mm vents....


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jalyst*


Does Corsair have plans for a revised version of this soon? 
It's not quite as good (cooling wise) as one would expect. 
I mean it's great, but for water I was hoping for a little better.


I don't know about Corsair but Asetek already does. Its just a 240MM Radiator though.

*More info on Asetek coolers*:

Asetek makes the H50. Asetek also makes there own brand coolers. There is the Asetek LCLC and the Asetek LCLC 240MM Radiator. I've seen someone post another OEM LCLC 240mm from some random brand I never herd of. But, they're out there. From what I understand the H50 has water inside them and the Asetek brand has a some sort of a liquid cooling fluid.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Ah, ok. When I had a Xiggy, I tried a Tri-Cool on it and to me they were terrible for a heatsink fan so it makes me think it wouldn't be much better for a rad. I bet once you get better fans your temps will drop more, but as I read earlier in this thread, your temps are similar to mine with the exception that you have a higher load temp by about 2C.


Oh, they are a terrible heatsink fan indeed. It's all I've got to play with though until I rethink my whole fan control system









Quote:



Originally Posted by *jalyst*


Does Corsair have plans for a revised version of this soon? 
It's not quite as good (cooling wise) as one would expect. 
I mean it's great, but for water I was hoping for a little better.


I think I would have seen if anything had come up







It's as good as it needs to be considering the market niche and it's distinct advantages over bulky heatsinks.

The Hydro series is already a series. https://shop.corsair.com/store/item_view.aspx?id=833087

They have an H30 and a T30, which are both memory blocks for water loops.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Turgin*


I don't even have the H50 yet but am so interested that I've read this entire thread today. Well, interested and also stuck in another state due to canceled flights









Amazingly bored. At least I have my laptop and wireless.

Actually do have a question...why are so many people choosing the Scythe GT over the S-Flex? Specs say the S-Flex is better. I've looked at both at MicroCenter and the S-Flex seems to be superior. Is it noise?


If you read this entire thread I'm surprised you only have one question! just really bumping this because I dont know the answer and want to suck all fan knowledge up that I can right now









Can anyone answer me this? I doubt it







.... I'm thinking of putting a Feser 55mm midspeed fan. ~80CFM, *~3mm H2O*, 30dBa. But due to motherboard, size and price restrictions I can only put one on. Now these fans are normally only used on one side of the rad since they are so powerful - but am I really going to see a significant drop in temps over my dodgy push/pull? (antec tri-cool and corsair stock)


----------



## Turgin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse*
If you read this entire thread I'm surprised you only have one question! just really bumping this because I dont know the answer and want to suck all fan knowledge up that I can right now

Can anyone answer me this? I doubt it .... I'm thinking of putting a Feser 55mm midspeed fan. ~80CFM, ~3mm H2O, 30dBa. But due to motherboard, size and price restrictions I can only put one on. Now these fans are normally only used on one side of the rad since they are so powerful - but am I really going to see a significant drop in temps over my dodgy push/pull? (antec tri-cool and corsair stock)

I'll probably have more once I actually own an H50, but I already know which screws I need, which thermal paste I will probably use (stock at first then if not happy with temps reseat with ICD7). Only thing still up in the air for me is the fan(s) and possibly a shroud. Leaning toward the TK-122 on a fan controller but will probably also order 2 G model S-Flex fans so I have that option. Going to talk to a local PC store about getting old/broken 120mm fans for 2 25mm shrouds so hopefully I can pick up some cheap or even free. If the homemade shroud helps then I will probably get an Airbox 120 so it looks better.

Plan to drill out my rear 120mm exhaust and cut notches for the hoses to put the rad on the outside and put the fan and shroud inside the case. Initial setup will be exhaust just becasue I agree with the majority opinion that sucking air from the rear of the case and then blowing exhaust from the rad into the case make little sense at least in my case. Another option would be put the rad + fan/shroud in the drive bays to intake from the front and then duct it out the back or top. Figuring out which way is better is most of the fun! But, the H50 is #2 on my upgrade list behind a Corsair HX series power supply so it'll be a month or two before I get one.

Also, thanks Killhouse for mentioning the Feser cause I doubt I would've found it otherwise!


----------



## Killhouse

A little caution if you're planning to put the radiator on the outside. I'm sure you've considered this but the tubes cant be taken off the radiator or pump very easily, so with your notches you would have to pass the pump through the back of the case and then mount it on the motherboard. Would be a real PITA to take the motherboard out









Really wish I could get more info on those Feser's


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Turgin* 
I don't even have the H50 yet but am so interested that I've read this entire thread today. Well, interested and also stuck in another state due to canceled flights









Amazingly bored. At least I have my laptop and wireless.

Actually do have a question...why are so many people choosing the Scythe GT over the S-Flex? Specs say the S-Flex is better. I've looked at both at MicroCenter and the S-Flex seems to be superior. Is it noise?

I'm using the Scythe S-Flex listed in sys specs below, they worked quite well on my old Q9550 clocked to 4Ghz. Unfortunately I may need to go back to the Megahelem to acheive similiar clocks on this i7 860 :swearing:.

A little side note here for an alternative to using the machine screws if they're not handy. I was going through my "coffee can of random micsellaneous hardware" for something to replace the machine screw's with since I didn't care for the look of those grey bolts sticking through an all black cooler and fans. I was lucky enough to have some screws in there from some broken outlet plates. Plasti-dipped the heads to black 'em out, and they work perfectly (threads matched and depth was just right not to poke the rad).


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Lol, my last three posts have been completely blown over


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Lol, my last three posts have been completely blown over










Sorry dude, it's looking really awesome but I dont know the answer to your question


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Sorry dude, it's looking really awesome but I dont know the answer to your question










hmm, alright. Cause Willhemmens guide has the drawing of the tubing layout and direction of water flow.. but I dont know if the h50 (logo) is upside down or right side up in his drawing.


----------



## Killhouse

Wont the corsair logo always be upright if the tubes are on the bottom?

CORSAIR
X O

or

O X
RIASROC

does that make sense? xD


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I guess the orientation of the pump.. One way the tubes will be above the corsair (upside down).. Thats how he shows it in the guide, but I want to make sure.
Laping cpu and h50 in a few


----------



## Killhouse

Nice, Ill catch up with the story later. Remember the golden rule of OCN - pics or it didnt happen!


----------



## RonindeBeatrice

I see it quoted a lot in this and other threads that the H50 has an aluminum radiator. What is the basis for this? Where is this documented?


----------



## Killhouse

It's pretty common knowledge, I think water savvy's just know by looking at it









http://www.computerpoweruser.com/edi...=&bJumpTo=True

Quote:



Specs: Cooling system: Closed loop liquid-cooling; Socket support: LGA775, LGA1366, LGA1156, AM2/AM3; Materials: copper (waterblock), aluminum (radiator); Integrated water pump; Fan: 120mm, 1,700rpm; two-year warranty


There are many articles like this


----------



## jalyst

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
I don't know about Corsair but Asetek already does. Its just a 240MM Radiator though.

*More info on Asetek coolers*:

Asetek makes the H50. Asetek also makes there own brand coolers. There is the Asetek LCLC and the Asetek LCLC 240MM Radiator. I've seen someone post another OEM LCLC 240mm from some random brand I never herd of. But, they're out there. From what I understand the H50 has water inside them and the Asetek brand has a some sort of a liquid cooling fluid.

Intriguing, thanks!
So this *OEM LCLC 240mm* is just based on the *Asetek LCLC 240MM*, or the other way round?

I wonder if there's some way I can get by without 120 or 240mm vents, & just mount it on the outside of my Lian-Li?
I see what you guys mean by *shroud*, it directs the airflow more accurately from the fan through the radiator...

I'm almost sold on this, been 8yrs or more since I've done WC, I was left with a bad taste in my mouth last time as there was much maintenance/upkeep, and eventually there was a a slight leak which killed my GPU.


----------



## RonindeBeatrice

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
It's pretty common knowledge, I think water savvy's just know by looking at it









http://www.computerpoweruser.com/edi...=&bJumpTo=True

There are many articles like this









This isn't exactly my first rodeo. The reason I ask is because I've never seen an aluminum radiator fashioned in this way. There are tons of pictures to be found where copper fins can clearly be seen between the rad's channels. It would seem completely daft to make the tanks and channels out of aluminum. Equip it with copper fins and then enclose the whole thing in a brass mounting bracket. Is there a more reliable source stating it's a aluminum radiator?

If it's indeed alu then I might just walk mine back into bestbuy. I am really only interested in the pump/block however, so the loss of a $20 radiator might not be a biggie.

If I can't find solid evidence, I'm just going to scratch the tank before I add it to my loop.


----------



## Aardvark54

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
hmm, alright. Cause Willhemmens guide has the drawing of the tubing layout and direction of water flow.. but I dont know if the h50 (logo) is upside down or right side up in his drawing.

When I installed my H50 the tubes on the water block ended up just off top dead centre. The Corsair logo was just about upside down and didn't look too sharp,so I peeled the Corsair sticker off the fan(you would not see it anyway) and stuck it on the waterblock housing,looks great.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RonindeBeatrice* 
This isn't exactly my first rodeo. The reason I ask is because I've never seen an aluminum radiator fashioned in this way. There are tons of pictures to be found where copper fins can clearly be seen between the rad's channels. It would seem completely daft to make the tanks and channels out of aluminum. Equip it with copper fins and then enclose the whole thing in a brass mounting bracket. Is there a more reliable source stating it's a aluminum radiator?

If it's indeed alu then I might just walk mine back into bestbuy. I am really only interested in the pump/block however, so the loss of a $20 radiator might not be a biggie.

If I can't find solid evidence, I'm just going to scratch the tank before I add it to my loop.

Bingo, I was sure I had seen it here. Just couldnt find it earlier. Tap the "Resources" tab








http://www.corsair.com/products/h50/default.aspx


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Turgin* 
I don't even have the H50 yet but am so interested that I've read this entire thread today. Well, interested and also stuck in another state due to canceled flights









Amazingly bored. At least I have my laptop and wireless.

Actually do have a question...why are so many people choosing the Scythe GT over the S-Flex? Specs say the S-Flex is better. I've looked at both at MicroCenter and the S-Flex seems to be superior. Is it noise?

Specs mean nothing.









Then see how much noise you want to live with.


----------



## HBrown140

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
My *NEW* and *IMPROVED H50 Mod* -- _*Tube Mod + Northbridge Loop + T-Line/Fillport*

Sorry for the terrible pics... All I have is my Blackberry ATM.









_



























Hope you enjoy these! Still lots of tiny bubbles as the system is still bleeding









Tutorial should be done by Monday or so. Have a lot of stuff to get done this weekend.

-Arbalest

That is excellent work


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I just finished lapping the cpu and h50. Surprisingly the h50 is pretty flat. I only noticed the edges and the parts around the screws were a little high. The majority of the center was flat.
Heres pictures.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Oh and what the h50 looked before the lapping


----------



## Killhouse

Nice







first lapping pictures +rep!


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Turgin* 
Actually do have a question...why are so many people choosing the Scythe GT over the S-Flex? Specs say the S-Flex is better. I've looked at both at MicroCenter and the S-Flex seems to be superior. Is it noise?

It might be because of the noise, I think someone mentioned that the S-Flex's made a high-pitch noise over the radiator (unless you used a shroud?) -- need someone to validate that though. I know the GT's have been proven to give you the best CFM, not just standalone, but through the radiator, while yielding a low dBA. Are there higher CFM fans? Yeah, but it comes at a higher dBA cost most likely.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Turgin* 
If the homemade shroud helps then I will probably get an Airbox 120 so it looks better.

I just picked up 2 of the 120mm Airboxes. They are 42mm deep and were a pain in the ass to put together I must say. Definitely have to really squeeze and push hard to get the sides to snap into place. For those that have one, I'm sure you know what I mean. I also picked up the TFC Xtender Shroud (w/ the Blue LED's) which is 31mm deep, but, didn't get a chance to open it up yet. I also picked up a few GT 1850's to replace my stock Corsair and Case fans, and those alone helped drop me 1-2c. Adding the airboxes, helped drop an additional 1-2c. I still have more testing and various configurations to try out when I return, but I'm currently out of town till next Sunday. Oh also, I switched the GT's from exhaust to intake and it dropped another 1c.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
I just picked up 2 of the 120mm Airboxes. They are 42mm deep and were a pain in the ass to put together I must say. Definitely have to really squeeze and push hard to get the sides to snap into place. For those that have one, I'm sure you know what I mean. I also picked up the TFC Xtender Shroud (Blue LED) which is 31mm deep, but, didn't get a chance to open it up yet. I also picked up a few GT 1850's to replace my stock Corsair and Case fans, and those alone helped drop me 1-2c. Adding the airboxes, helped drop an additional 1-2c. I still have more testing and various configurations to try out when I return, but I'm currently out of town till next Sunday. Oh also, I switched the GT's from exhaust to intake and it dropped another 1c.

Nice one xmisery, you're the first person to use those shrouds in this thread I think. Glad to see that they're performing.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Nice one xmisery, you're the first person to use those shrouds in this thread I think. Glad to see that they're performing.

They are quite big at 42mm each. I had to re-arrange my radiator towards the front of the case in the 3x 5.25" bay area for it to fit. I'm also very interested in seeing how that TK fan works out for you, if you do end up getting one.


----------



## SpykeZ

so did anyone ever come to a conclusion about the amount of thermal paste they put on the block? I know it's a high quality compound but it's on there really thick


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
so did anyone ever come to a conclusion about the amount of thermal paste they put on the block? I know it's a high quality compound but it's on there really thick

I just reseated mine the other day with IC Diamond and was pretty amazed at how thick the Shin Etsu was on there. I mean, like, a piece of thin shirt cardboard, that thick! Probably not a full millimeter, but maybe .5 mm. But I still had good temps even with that, so who knows, maybe that works for that kind of paste.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
I'm using the Scythe S-Flex listed in sys specs below, they worked quite well on my old Q9550 clocked to 4Ghz. Unfortunately I may need to go back to the Megahelem to acheive similiar clocks on this i7 860 :swearing:.

A little side note here for an alternative to using the machine screws if they're not handy. I was going through my "coffee can of random micsellaneous hardware" for something to replace the machine screw's with since I didn't care for the look of those grey bolts sticking through an all black cooler and fans. I was lucky enough to have some screws in there from some broken outlet plates. Plasti-dipped the heads to black 'em out, and they work perfectly (threads matched and depth was just right not to poke the rad).









Another alternative, which a Home Depot guy in the hardware aisle helped me find, is that often the big stores don't have any machine screws over 2" in length -- at the time i was shopping for screws to attach a fan, a shroud, and a silicone vibration ring, if possible. I figured minimum 2.5", 6-32 threads. Well the screws that come in toggle bolt kits go up to 3", 4", maybe longer, but the 3" ones worked fine, and were the same price as just the screws in shorter sizes. I had to add a couple washers to take up the extra room, but in a pinch, it was a good substitute and much better than returning home with nothing to attach the fan + shroud


----------



## PCSarge

i went out today got a Cooler Master HAF 932 full tower, an Nvidia 9800 GTX+ graphics card, and Windows 7 Professional 64 bit, oh, i failed to mention my western digital Caviar Black edition HDD







life is good.... and my pc is so cold, if i put my feet ontop they go numb























ill post new temp readings shortly


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 







i went out today got a Cooler Master HAF 932 full tower, an Nvidia 9800 GTX+ graphics card, and Windows 7 Professional 64 bit, oh, i failed to mention my western digital Caviar Black edition HDD







life is good.... and my pc is so cold, if i put my feet ontop they go numb























ill post new temp readings shortly
















you got Upgrayedd 'd










Two D's for a double dose of that pimping


----------



## PCSarge

talk about getting low temps.... 28C idle 36C full load on overclock to 3.2 ghz...life is cold.. .and very sweet atm
















i hope i didnt scare you with upgrade news killhouse







JK

oh do i get + rep for making my 9800GTX+ run at 1.2ghz OC'd? lol


----------



## Killhouse

Very nice PCSarge.









Trying to make some difficult decisions about the colour scheme for my new case. It's actually given me a headache xD


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Very nice PCSarge.









Trying to make some difficult decisions about the colour scheme for my new case. It's actually given me a headache xD

black and any brighter color always looks awesome. Yellow, Orange, Green...


----------



## Killhouse

Here she is at the moment, but I'm getting annoying noises from the top fan which there is nothing I can do about. Which means orange is now out of the question







I was going with a purple and orange look but it's really not working.

I'm now going to swap out the front fans with white ones, replace the power button with a white LED version. Replace the top fan with a blue LED fan, cable braid with pale blue and white instead of purple. The blue LED feet will remain, the cold cathodes are out, and in will come blue and white LED strips. I'm probably going to put blue kink coils on the H50 tubes too.

An expensive PITA


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Very nice PCSarge.









Trying to make some difficult decisions about the colour scheme for my new case. It's actually given me a headache xD

killhouse, IMO, id do a red/black, or a blue/black, if u want to go lighter, try green/black, itll look kinda like some kind of green sludge monster then







lol, the guy at the store thought i was insane when i said someone i knew (killhouse) custom built his own acrylic case, the look on his face was priceless


----------



## Killhouse

I think I'm going blue/white/black - it fits with my motherboard. It's a nightmare trying to find a good top-fan though.


----------



## dude120

Just got an h-50, and am going to install it soon, will post pics.


----------



## hollywood406

Count me in!!!! I've been reading the posts and decided to go right from the box to a modded H50. What do you think? I was running a Megahalem and load temps were mid to high 70'sC. As you can see I'm running a maximum of 67C now. I read that I was supposed to run it for several hours to check for leaks, but I couldn't wait and I slapped it on after an hour. Some of the wiring needs to be cleaned up, but that's another project.


----------



## Killhouse

Ohhh very nice, I like the rad placement. Added!


----------



## hollywood406

Tanks!!!


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Ohhh very nice, I like the rad placement. Added!

I was thinking the exact opposite. Looks to me like all that heat is blowing right into his gpus


----------



## sexybastard

looks awesome hollywood! great job.

those are great temps as well.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hollywood406* 
I've been reading the posts and decided to go right from the box to a modded H50. What do you think?























Awesome, there is really nice hop up with the modded H50. I HONESTLY am envy of some H50 modders.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Just a quick question as far as antifreeze... Can someone give me a link to which antifreeze would be acceptable to use? Maybe from an autozone, target, discount auto, etc.? Because I remember reading about making sure not to have other chemicals in it. Just so I cant go wrong, and know exactly what to get.
I wont be able to finish anything till monday :-\\ Not home tomorrow and class all day monday.

Thanks, this would be a big help. Im working on the tutorial video, a few more parts to finish up on it.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Just a quick question as far as antifreeze... Can someone give me a link to which antifreeze would be acceptable to use? Maybe from an autozone, target, discount auto, etc.? Because I remember reading about making sure not to have other chemicals in it. Just so I cant go wrong, and know exactly what to get.
I wont be able to finish anything till monday :-\\ Not home tomorrow and class all day monday.

Thanks, this would be a big help. Im working on the tutorial video, a few more parts to finish up on it.

you can pick up distilled water for 99C and coolant for $7 from Target. thats it..


----------



## tlxxxsracer

okay, thanks. I appreciate the help. Ill pick that up monday


----------



## hollywood406

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Capwn* 
I was thinking the exact opposite. Looks to me like all that heat is blowing right into his gpus









Yep they are blowing upward (for) now. I want to try both ways. The only thing that stopped me from exhausting was I would have to destroy the Storm-Sniper fan-holder to reverse the fans. GPU temp during the prime run was 46c with the fan at 50%, not too bad.


----------



## hollywood406

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sexybastard* 
looks awesome hollywood! great job.

those are great temps as well.

Thanks!







There was a lot of inspiration in the previous couple hundred posts!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hollywood406* 
Thanks!







There was a lot of inspiration in the previous couple *thousand* posts!

Fix't









Would be nice if you could flip that rad to exhaust, especially with that lovely megaflow in front of it


----------



## hollywood406

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
Awesome, there is really nice hop up with the modded H50. I HONESTLY am envy of some H50 modders.

Thanks! I appreciate the positive feedback. This is my first "water-cooling" experiment and probably not the last.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hollywood406* 
Thanks! I appreciate the positive feedback. This is my first "water-cooling" experiment and probably not the last.

Can we persuade you to put this on it?


----------



## hollywood406

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Fix't









Would be nice if you could flip that rad to exhaust, especially with that lovely megaflow in front of it










WHooooppppppss!














Yea.......that's what I meant! I should have said hundered's of PAGES! haha

Edit:

Yea, I'm kind of wonder how low the temps could drop if I reversed them. I'm already at almost 10c less than with the Megahalem. Didn't Willhelmmen drop 23c?


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Can we persuade you to put this on it?









lol the h50 pump would take one look at that rad and probably commit suicide


----------



## Killhouse

I read over here:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...-complete.html

that these radiators have incredibly low flow resistance... which got me thinking


----------



## lilraver018

ALso from what i have head the pump on the h50 pumps at a slow rate so you might not see much improvement if the fluids cant run by the radiator fast enough.


----------



## PCPaladin

So who is going to be the first modder to overvolt their pump! LOL


----------



## PCSarge

personally, the only reason why i'm scared to mod my H50...is because if i screw it up i'm done for.....thus being noob with water cooling....unless theres a failsafe way...forget it


----------



## Killhouse

Eesh, I do not want to know how much I spent tonight..
4x Fractal Design 120mm Fans (Â£7 each), rated at 15 dBa.
1x White Vandal power button (like my currrent one, just white)
*1x Feser Triebwerk 120x55mm radiator fan, 1800 RPM, 30dBa max.*
1x Antec BigBoy200
1x T-rad2 VGA cooler
And some very nice looking black and aqua-blue sleeving from MDPC-X (I see where the million dollar comes from now...).

Looking forward to putting that Feser on my radiator, nom nom. Should be an interesting test.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCPaladin* 
So who is going to be the first modder to overvolt their pump! LOL









I've actually been considering it... I'm waiting for my Father to get some info and do the grunt work for me, and Ill just solder


----------



## HeliXpc




----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
you can pick up distilled water for 99C and coolant for $7 from Target. thats it..

Sorry to ask, but do you have a link for the coolant? So i know what exactly what im looking, so its a quick in and out thing.


----------



## jalyst

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
I don't know about Corsair but Asetek already does. Its just a 240MM Radiator though.

*More info on Asetek coolers*:

Asetek makes the H50. Asetek also makes there own brand coolers. There is the Asetek LCLC and the Asetek LCLC 240MM Radiator. I've seen someone post another OEM LCLC 240mm from some random brand I never herd of. But, they're out there. From what I understand the H50 has water inside them and the Asetek brand has a some sort of a liquid cooling fluid.

Intriguing, thanks!
So this *OEM LCLC 240mm* is just based on the *Asetek LCLC 240MM*, or the other way round?

I wonder if I can get by without 120 or 240mm vents, & just mount it on the outside of my Lian-Li? (prolly can)
I see what you guys mean by *shrouds*, they direct the airflow more accurately from the fan through the radiator.

After reading some more of the thread I now see that with some;
shrouds, decent fans, decent liquid, & maybe later a; better radiator + pump volt-mod...
One can have something that blows the best air coolers out of the water, no pun









And for not much more $! Think I'm almost sold on this...


----------



## Pings

Asetek is the original. Corsair, Alienware, Atomic, HP and others are the OEM.


----------



## jalyst

I see, I think my definition of OEM is different to yours








I can't buy from the sites you linked to as I'm in Oz (Australia).

Asetek's site doesn't appear to sell or even just outline those model you linked to.
Looks as though I've no choice but to find "OEM's" that re-brand/sell them.

Does anyone know of any OEM's that re-brand/sell these cousins of the H50?
I'll check Atomic...


----------



## Pings

The other OEM dual rad is some UK brand if I remember right. Just don't know who makes it.

Atomic was a CPU GPU single rad LCLC made by Sapphire.


----------



## toast3d

quick question guys,... I have a p/p exhaust setup and I gotta say that my noctua did a better job cooling at load than the h50, however the h50 kicks arse under idle (32-37c)and light duty tasks... So whats the deal with it apparently hitting a low ceiling in its cooling effectiveness at around 55c???

noctua always kept me at around 57-63c under full load and overclock, I cant seem too get the h50 too keep temps below 67 at full load!!! am I missing something, TIM has been applied a second time using a thin layer credit card method(I've found too be the most effective method) and I cant reason going intake with a case thats runs 3-way sli, I have too beleive my gpu exhuast would get sucked right back in with the intake method....

ANY TIPS TRICKS TOO REDUCING TEMPS JUST A FEW DEGREES MORE UNDER LOAD?


----------



## Pings

Try adding a shroud (⇇Fan⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Fan) also check the *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink*, you could add some intake to your 5.25 drive bays if you have the room.


----------



## Moparman

You all know that ASETEK Makes the H50 for corsair Right?


----------



## sexybastard

hey guys since I am am pretty much snowed in tonight I decided to mess around with my h50.

There are two differences in these pictures. Top one is before and second is after. Can you spot them



























lol answers:

used sand paper to remove the corsair logo and added my own little design. Doesn't necessarily look better but damn I was bored.

Also got some distilled water the other day and filled up the res a bit more.

So what do you think?


----------



## toast3d

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
Try adding a shroud (⇇Fan⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Fan) also check the *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink*, you could add some intake to your 5.25 drive bays if you have the room.

gettin one on tommorrow ....post pics then

thnx a bunch let you guys know how it works out!

oh almost forgot...I have the room, should I shroud both push and pull or just 1 in particular??


----------



## enkrypt3d

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
Try adding a shroud (⇇Fan⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Fan) also check the *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink*, you could add some intake to your 5.25 drive bays if you have the room.

I was thinking about using one of those and have a tube inside the case to vent the cool air straight to the back and thru the rad in the rear... would be interesting


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Moparman* 
You all know that ASETEK Makes the H50 for corsair Right?

Sure do.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
Asetek makes the H50. Asetek also makes there own brand coolers. There is the Asetek LCLC and the Asetek LCLC 240MM Radiator.


----------



## alayoubi

Hi Guys,

I've registered to this site just to join this wonderfull thread which helps everyone who own the H50.

I bought one 10 days ago and installed it in Push & Pull Setup , everything is going just fine and better than before.










I've read too many pages and have some questions:

How much decrease in heat degrees between one & two fans setup? must the 2 fans spining at the same speed or no Problem if i Put the faster one as Push Fan & the second Slower one as Pull Fan?

Is the shroud realy good ? can i use a defective fan as a shroud without the fan itself in center ?

Thanx in advance & add me to the list Plz.


----------



## cyclometric

As I had posted some time back, I was originally getting lowest temps even at load, with an intake setup. (well, with full CPU load... folding was, and up until about an hour ago, was a different story.... til tonight... read on). My apologies about the extremely ghetto mod in the picture, but I just wanted to test the concept, and it seems very effective indeed.

So because of the air exhausting so much from the back of the case when folding, even more so now that I'm trying to run 24/7 with 2 cards, a few weeks ago I flipped the fans and have had them running as exhaust, and the highest temps in few weeks was 50. Several load tests reached 48 max.

Anyway, I have been wanting to test installation of a duct or snorkel that could reach fresher, cooler air, thus enabling me to switch my fans back to intake, avoiding heated GPU exhaust. This classifies as classic "ghetto mod", and you just have to believe me that if my tests over a few days prove a good result, I will absolutely build a real piece of equipment that I can be proud of not embarrassed... Maybe acrylic, or shiny or painted metal.

Sooo fugly, huh? There is an upside, of course.

Flipping the 2 fans
+
the duct
+
flipped top front case fan to exhaust
=
temps 6 degrees lower!!*
*Unofficial...Will run load test & post back



All in all, this makes the fan intake come from about 18" away from the GPU exhaust, about 45 degree angle.

Is this too crazy a mod? I've seen in stores small (several inches long) ducts used to expel hot air directly to the outside, or get fresh intake, but I thought a more extreme reach towards cooler air would make a difference, and voilÃ*, it appears to have done so! Whadday think??


----------



## jalyst

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
The other OEM dual rad is some UK brand if I remember right. Just don't know who makes it.

Atomic was a CPU GPU single rad LCLC made by Sapphire.

Thanks.


----------



## jalyst

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Moparman* 
You all know that ASETEK Makes the H50 for corsair Right?

yes, we do.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyclometric* 
As I had posted some time back, I was originally getting lowest temps even at load, with an intake setup. (well, with full CPU load... folding was, and up until about an hour ago, was a different story.... til tonight... read on). My apologies about the extremely ghetto mod in the picture, but I just wanted to test the concept, and it seems very effective indeed.

So because of the air exhausting so much from the back of the case when folding, even more so now that I'm trying to run 24/7 with 2 cards, a few weeks ago I flipped the fans and have had them running as exhaust, and the highest temps in few weeks was 50. Several load tests reached 48 max.

Anyway, I have been wanting to test installation of a duct or snorkel that could reach fresher, cooler air, thus enabling me to switch my fans back to intake, avoiding heated GPU exhaust. This classifies as classic "ghetto mod", and you just have to believe me that if my tests over a few days prove a good result, I will absolutely build a real piece of equipment that I can be proud of not embarrassed... Maybe acrylic, or shiny or painted metal.

Sooo fugly, huh? There is an upside, of course.

Flipping the 2 fans
+
the duct
+
flipped top front case fan to exhaust
=
temps 6 degrees lower!!*
*Unofficial...Will run load test & post back



All in all, this makes the fan intake come from about 18" away from the GPU exhaust, about 45 degree angle.

Is this too crazy a mod? I've seen in stores small (several inches long) ducts used to expel hot air directly to the outside, or get fresh intake, but I thought a more extreme reach towards cooler air would make a difference, and voilÃ*, it appears to have done so! Whadday think??









nice idea but LMAO!







at the pepsi boxes man, i switched mine to exhaust for the same problem, my 9800GTX+ puts out alot of hot air (especially since i OC'd it) and it didnt make sense to suck that into the case, though there is a 230mm top exhaust, id rather intake cold air than heat my pc up more, so nice concept, if you build something, detail how, ill try it then


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Sorry to ask, but do you have a link for the coolant? So i know what exactly what im looking, so its a quick in and out thing.

Have you work on your car's radiaitor and refill coolant before? if so, where you bought the coolant from store?

I did search link from target, there is no list. But target sell the various three brand coolant as such Peak, Prestone, others. You make sure if it has "*ETHYLENE GLYCOL*" and *Antifreeze/Coolant*, (not 50/50 Prediluted) before buy it.









Here it is *PEAK™ Antifreeze & Coolant*, and *Prestone*. Target sell those for $5-7..

I bought these

from Kargen: $9









from Target: 99c


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sexybastard* 
hey guys since I am am pretty much snowed in tonight I decided to mess around with my h50.

There are two differences in these pictures. Top one is before and second is after. Can you spot them


















lol answers:

used sand paper to remove the corsair logo and added my own little design. Doesn't necessarily look better but damn I was bored.

Also got some distilled water the other day and filled up the res a bit more.

So what do you think?

Yes I can seee non-logo corsair on the pump unit. thats what I plan to do like that... You need your own logo or another sticker of logo as such FOX, skateboard or something like that.. its more looking [email protected]$$$...


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alayoubi* 
Hi Guys,

I've registered to this site just to join this wonderfull thread which helps everyone who own the H50.

I bought one 10 days ago and installed it in Push & Pull Setup , everything is going just fine and better than before.










I've read too many pages and have some questions:

How much decrease in heat degrees between one & two fans setup? must the 2 fans spining at the same speed or no Problem if i Put the faster one as Push Fan & the second Slower one as Pull Fan?

Is the shroud realy good ? can i use a defective fan as a shroud without the fan itself in center ?

Thanx in advance & add me to the list Plz.

looks like my pc used to man, then i got a full tower...now no fans/rads/ anything else are crammed in there, i suggest a cooler master HAF 932 tower, it has alot of space...and giant fans lmao...


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alayoubi* 
Hi Guys, Thanx in advance & add me to the list Plz.

welcome OCN.. Anyway.. You dont require to buy new case, but you need to fix cable as management in your rig if you can.

the Cable Management 101 guide is here..









Hope this helpful..


----------



## PCSarge

guys i did some tally ups of all my bills from building this monster pc......its a staggering total, and its stil lnot finished yet...get ready... the total is

$1436.06 CDN dollars :swearing::swearing:

seems like alot to me, but most of you may find it miniscule lol


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
The other OEM dual rad is some UK brand if I remember right. Just don't know who makes it.

Atomic was a CPU GPU single rad LCLC made by Sapphire.

Yes, thats right! here is post#800, thats what you talk about?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyclometric* 
....
Is this too crazy a mod? I've seen in stores small (several inches long) ducts used to expel hot air directly to the outside, or get fresh intake, but I thought a more extreme reach towards cooler air would make a difference, and voilÃ*, it appears to have done so! Whadday think??









Haha, awesome man! Good to see it works, maybe you can make one out of acrylic or brushed aluminium instead?









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Moparman* 
You all know that ASETEK Makes the H50 for corsair Right?

Yeah but Corsair put their trustworthy name on it









Quote:


Originally Posted by *sexybastard* 
hey guys since I am am pretty much snowed in tonight I decided to mess around with my h50.

Very nice! You should go over that white with blue marker pen, with a bit of luck it will be UV reactive like the water in your tubes







I'm thinking about spraying mine white, but probably not









Quote:


Originally Posted by *toast3d* 
oh almost forgot...I have the room, should I shroud both push and pull or just 1 in particular??

Push shroud works better than pull, both would be slight overkill but that doesent exist on OCN









Quote:


Originally Posted by *alayoubi* 
Hi Guys,
I've registered to this site just to join this wonderfull thread which helps everyone who own the H50.

I've read too many pages and have some questions:

How much decrease in heat degrees between one & two fans setup? must the 2 fans spining at the same speed or no Problem if i Put the faster one as Push Fan & the second Slower one as Pull Fan?

Is the shroud realy good ? can i use a defective fan as a shroud without the fan itself in center ?

Thanx in advance & add me to the list Plz.

D'aww you're embarrassing us









Put the faster one as push if possible, two fans will definetely help your temps a lot. It's pretty much the best thing you can do for the temps.

If you're going to use a shroud you'll have to pull the centre out I'm afraid. Putting that extra fan in with all its whirry bits will disrupt the airflow, and provide no shrouding effect at all. If you go ahead and do this I recommend putting it on the push fan.

Added to the list.


----------



## Turgin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
*1x Feser Triebwerk 120x55mm radiator fan, 1800 RPM, 30dBa max.*
.
.
Looking forward to putting that Feser on my radiator, nom nom. Should be an interesting test.

I am so looking forward to these results!


----------



## Killhouse

Thanks, I'll test it properly against my current setup and post the results. Should hopefully be down here this week, same order as the fractals


----------



## Aardvark54

Must be getting thicker,but I can't work out how to add pics of my rig!
Any help,guys?


----------



## Killhouse

You can use the attach button or upload your images to imageshack/photobucket and upload them with [ IMG][ /IMG] tags


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Thanks, I'll test it properly against my current setup and post the results. Should hopefully be down here this week, same order as the fractals









Founder, I didnt aware that you make your own acrylic case. thats supercool. I want to make on my own. But I dont have the specifed equipment tools for acrylic.. Mm.. i am wondering if you can make front panel acrylic only for eLite 341. ..


----------



## HBrown140

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
personally, the only reason why i'm scared to mod my H50...is because if i screw it up i'm done for.....thus being noob with water cooling....unless theres a failsafe way...forget it









+1 The thought of making ONE mistake that can kill your whole system,scares me too!I give all props to those who can do it.


----------



## HBrown140

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HeliXpc* 


Did you shorten the hoses on the H50? Mine seem so much longer.

By the way,Great looking rig.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
Founder, I didnt aware that you make your own acrylic case. thats supercool. I want to make on my own. But I dont have the specifed equipment tools for acrylic.. Mm.. i am wondering if you can make front panel acrylic only for eLite 341. ..

It's a big and expensive project, and I have access to my dads garage which has all the tools I need - except my beloved Dremel.

I think a front panel would look a bit weird. It's difficult to get aluminium and acrylic to look aesthetically pleasing together. A lot of the pleasure of building the whole case is in the design process.


----------



## Aardvark54

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
You can use the attach button or upload your images to imageshack/photobucket and upload them with [ IMG][ /IMG] tags

Thanks for the quick reply killhouse,that shook the old grey matter up! Will try again.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HBrown140* 
Did you shorten the hoses on the H50? Mine seem so much longer.

By the way,Great looking rig.

I think they are curling towards the camera, trick of the eye.


----------



## PCSarge

well, crappy quality, due to use of cellphone camera, but heres my updated rig pics,since migrating to the HAF 932


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HBrown140* 
+1 The thought of making ONE mistake that can kill your whole system,scares me too!I give all props to those who can do it.

No, thats not true.. the Distilled water wont killing your components, a Distilled-W that doesn't conduct electricity..


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
well, crappy quality, due to use of cellphone camera, but heres my updated rig pics,since migrating to the HAF 932
















Very nice PCSarge, be proud









If I were you I would spend a bit of time making that case your own. Maybe buy some LED strips and some nice cable sleeving?


----------



## PCSarge

you must not have found my earlier post on what i've spent killhouse, i'm in a state of shock atm from that lol


----------



## Killhouse

Sleeving is cheap, do itz!


----------



## HBrown140

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
No, thats not true.. the Distilled water wont killing your components, a Distilled-W that doesn't conduct electricity..

Sorry, but maybe part of my confusion stems from the fact that,in the beginning of this thread,there was something about Corsair replacing components damaged by a H50 that leaked. And that Corsair really stands behind their product.Maybe I misunderstood. My bad.


----------



## Killhouse

I think distilled water becomes ion-contaminated over timing which would cause the water to become electrically conductive, not nice for your hardware


----------



## dude120

Just got my h50 yesterday, quite impressed with the temps, considering its cooling a core i7 and i have yet to put it in push pull config.
idle: 35-38c (varying on each core)


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dude120* 
Just got my h50 yesterday, quite impressed with the temps, considering its cooling a core i7 and i have yet to put it in push pull config.
idle: 35-38c (varying on each core)

*cough* organize those cables better man, looks like a tornado went thru your case

<----and yes if your wondering, the picture is me, i am infact a girl


----------



## toast3d

thanks again for the advice on shrouding my fans into the rad...

temps dropped about 8c at full load on prime/occt/IBT
iDLE is about 4c cooler at only 29-31 c with an ambient of 24-27c

heres my sys now at full load...... H-50

and here are som pics...


----------



## toast3d

oh yeah I almost forgot, could the powers to be add me too the club list!!!! thanks in advance.....


----------



## PCSarge

1 question toast...whats with the tinfoil?


----------



## Turgin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


1 question toast...whats with the tinfoil?


I think it may by duct tape...


----------



## toast3d

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
1 question toast...whats with the tinfoil?

ROFL,.... Im glad you asked that, was kinda hoping someone would...
It is actually aluminum backed duct adhesive used in commercial and industrial applications for "sealed system engineered specs"

you see I only had 1 spare fan too massacre and I chose too use that 1 on the inside for the shroud....
On the outside I murdered an old dvd case cut 4 equal strips of

1/16 in X 1 1/4in x 4 5/58 in

plastic encased that onto a long strip of the previously mentioned material then adhered both fans together with that in the the middle for a:
2345rpm PUSH/(rad) 2200rpmx2 PULL EXHUAST setup

here in this pic is the final w/ armaflex tape consealing the guaddy "aluminum foil" you lovingly pointed out, thanks by the way for giving me more work on to do on Sunday....lol

http://img687.imageshack.us/i/tinfoil002.jpg/]

Guys I love it you pick out the silver tape but neglect too notice my new board sitting on the ground next the comp... really wanted someon too question why I had a rampage II extreme box and an evga x58 3-way sli mobo sitting next too each other,....


----------



## toast3d

dbl post


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyclometric* 
Anyway, I have been wanting to test installation of a duct or snorkel that could reach fresher, cooler air, thus enabling me to switch my fans back to intake, avoiding heated GPU exhaust.

I still say to all those running intake, just wait till summer and your system starts thermal throttling due to the amount of heat being pumped into the case. I haven't had a single thermal throttle at exactly the same settings since I swapped to exhaust, even though my temps may be a few degrees higher.

'Intake' only works well if you have the rad outside the case.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
well, crappy quality, due to use of cellphone camera, but heres my updated rig pics,since migrating to the HAF 932
















Arghh, and I thought you top mounted it. That is my next mod if I can find a suitable place for my 200mm top fan.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *toast3d* 
It is actually aluminum backed duct adhesive used in commercial and industrial applications for "sealed system engineered specs"

you see I only had 1 spare fan too massacre and I chose too use that 1 on the inside for the shroud....
On the outside I murdered an old dvd case cut 4 equal strips of

1/16 in X 1 1/4in x 4 5/58 in

....

Very cool mod







+rep

Quote:


Originally Posted by *toast3d* 
Guys I love it you pick out the silver tape but neglect too notice my new board sitting on the ground next the comp... really wanted someon too question why I had a rampage II extreme box and an evga x58 3-way sli mobo sitting next too each other,....

Blame PCSarge for that confusion


----------



## leppie

Dbl post sorry (again...)


----------



## dude120

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
*cough* organize those cables better man, looks like a tornado went thru your case

<----and yes if your wondering, the picture is me, i am infact a girl









LOL, that was after I organized the cables, too. Doing what i did lowerd ambient temps by 4-5C. Im going to need a new PSU soon, so ill definitely go modular, that should help the cable management a lot.









also, will it affect temps because i mounted my fan outside the case and the H50 in the case? Thefan and the radiator are right next to each other, but im curious as to if theres anything else i can do to get better temps. Next thing to get is definitely a better fan and a shroud.


----------



## PCSarge

ill make you boys a deal, ill top mount my rad, possibly intake/ exhaust havent decided yet, in my HAF 932, i only request one thing.... someone sends me better fans! the ones i have top at 1800 rpms and are noisy as f*ck,and if i top mount it, i need a spare fan beside it to make up for the loss of the 230mm









the reason why i say this is, i'm mounted as intake with push/ pull on 2 identical fans, and the top 230mm is my exhaust, and it works wonders....all the heat leaves before it heats anything up lmao


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dude120* 
LOL, that was after I organized the cables, too. Doing what i did lowerd ambient temps by 4-5C. Im going to need a new PSU soon, so ill definitely go modular, that should help the cable management a lot.









also, will it affect temps because i mounted my fan outside the case and the H50 in the case? Thefan and the radiator are right next to each other, but im curious as to if theres anything else i can do to get better temps. Next thing to get is definitely a better fan and a shroud.

as it is, i have no shrouds, i'm push/pull, mounted on the inside of the case as intake, it works very well if you have a top exhaust fan...the spacing from that small amount of metal doesnt effect the fan/rad at all, its all personal choice really and well pretty obvious, space issues force ppl to mount fans outside the case, nothing wrong with doing it


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
I still say to all those running intake, just wait till summer and your system starts thermal throttling due to the amount of heat being pumped into the case. I haven't had a single thermal throttle at exactly the same settings since I swapped to exhaust, even though my temps may be a few degrees higher.

'Intake' only works well if you have the rad outside the case.









I did worry about that, but at least on my case, that intake air heated by the rad can first escape from the top exhaust Big Boy, and the rest of it comes straight out the top front fan without impedance.

I bought a new Primochill Typhoon Repack Reservoir from the Marketplace here (great deal, woo-hoo!) and when it arrives, I will mount the rad on the outside wall of the case (Antec 900 has built-in rubber-flanged holes for the tubing). Only thing about this res is that the face is purple, not green, totally doesn't go with my case, but Moddersmart sells replacement covers, so I think I'll get a clear one and dyebomb the coolant. And, it holds so little, 120ml, that I wonder how much it will make a difference, but then again, there can't be much more than that in the entire system now, huh? Anyone know how much coolant is running thru a stock H50? I guess I'll find out soon enough!

But regarding intake vs. exhaust: in the Palm Springs desert, in the summer, believe me, it's sooo hot (try 117Â°, 125Â° sometime!) that it will probably be cooler inside than it is in wintertime. Heck, in the spring the average temp is 88.


----------



## Aardvark54




----------



## PCSarge

Aard! you fail! lol


----------



## Aardvark54

Quote:


Originally Posted by *aardvark54* 

































damn!!!


----------



## PCSarge

do it the easy way...attach them to the post...

oh and i have some bad news, i had to RMA 2 sticks of my OCZ RAM (4GB worth out of 8) because they wouldnt boot with my oc this morning, by the end of next week or so, i should have replacements! ( i hope) i didnt post this earlier, because i didnt feel it was relevant


----------



## Aardvark54

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
Aard! you fail! lol

Damn it,this is doing my head in! What,do you hang around waiting for someone to F*** up,then mercilesly pounce on them?


----------



## Aardvark54

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
do it the easy way...attach them to the post...

How is it done???? Thought I was pretty well down with the modern world!!


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aardvark54* 
Damn it,this is doing my head in! What,do you hang around waiting for someone to F*** up,then mercilesly pounce on them?









Sadly yes. It happens daily and when you least expect it. Get used to it my friend.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aardvark54* 
How is it done???? Thought I was pretty well down with the modern world!!


you can upload the image to a third party image host and link to the images. Or attach them to your post. Right underneight the text box you will see a "manage attachments" box. CLick that. Upload them to there .


----------



## PCSarge

click "post reply" scroll down, and click the "attachments" button

Aard i also hate to ask this... why is my E7400 running faster than your E8400?


----------



## Aardvark54

Again


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aardvark54*


Again


Eish dude, you failed again...


----------



## Aardvark54

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


click "post reply" scroll down, and click the "attachments" button

Did that,uploaded them,where have they gone,AAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRGGGHH!!

Aard i also hate to ask this... why is my E7400 running faster than your E8400?


Don't know the right way to OC it,looked around the net,can't seem to get anywhere.Any tip? Damn it ,if I can't upload a few pics how am I supposed to do some OCing??


----------



## Aardvark54

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


Eish dude, you failed again...


Right I uploaded the pics using the attachment button,they uploaded fine,so where are they? Is there another step I missed out?


----------



## mr-Charles

....after you have uploaded it, do you see it for showing in the block of "Upload File from URL" ? ? ? > > > >IF so, just right click onto the text and click = "copy link location" , then get back to the posting's you are trying to post in of the thread and click "paste" .......should be your next step . . . . this should post up your upload'd file as a "thumbnail" for into the posting's . . . . .{ my







of help...}

mr. Charles .









.


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aardvark54*


Right I uploaded the pics using the attachment button,they uploaded fine,so where are they? Is there another step I missed out?










Just click that paperclip to add them in you post


----------



## Pings

Just a quick warning to you guys who have an intake setup. If you have a GFX card that has an air handler that blows hot air out the rear of your case. That hot air rises only to be sucked back into the coil of the H50. Well the H50 is also sucking in cool air. The mixing of hot and cool air inside of a radiator creates condensation. Long story short, we had an alarm warning go off on a server room system. The humidity was to high, again long story short one of the coils was mixing hot and cool air and creating condensation. We all should know that this is potentially hazardous to our PCs. An intake setup with a GFX card that has an air handler could damage your PC.

"*Asetekâ€™s factory sealed liquid cooling system is specifically designed to exhaust CPU heat directly outside of the chassis.*" - Asetek


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


Just a quick warning to you guys who have an intake setup. If you have a GFX card that has an air handler that blows hot air out the rear of your case. That hot air rises only to be sucked back into the coil of the H50. Well the H50 is also sucking in cool air. The mixing of hot and cool air inside of a radiator creates condensation. Long story short, we had an alarm warning go off on a server room system. The humidity was to high, again long story short one of the coils was mixing hot and cool air and creating condensation. We all should know that this is potentially hazardous to our PCs. An intake setup with a GFX card that has an air handler could damage your PC.

"*Asetekâ€™s factory sealed liquid cooling system is specifically designed to exhaust CPU heat directly outside of the chassis.*" - Asetek


So, we should reverse our fans on our h50's asap?


----------



## Capwn

As helpful as that info is. It needs to be stated people should look at both options and think about what works best for their setup. All these people running around claiming " EXHAUST is the best no matter what" are simply *wrong*. As it might work well for you it might not work so well for everyone. Also it should be noted that not all owners that are going the Corsair Recommended route of INTAKE have their radiator mounted to the back of their case. I have seen it mounted on bottom , front , top, and I think I even saw one mounted to a side panel.


----------



## Broom2455

Mines on its way









Time to go from an Arctic Cooling Alpine 7 on a Q9550. Goodbye high temps







Hello H50


----------



## alayoubi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
An intake setup with a GFX card that has an air handler could damage your PC.

"*Asetekâ€™s factory sealed liquid cooling system is specifically designed to exhaust CPU heat directly outside of the chassis.*" - Asetek

Thanks 4 the advice ,

Whats the solution for that if i dont want to change my INTAKE H50 setup to EXHAUST ?


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dude120* 
So, we should reverse our fans on our h50's asap?

If you have a GFX card like the Vapor-X do intake. If you have a GFX that forces hot air out the rear of your case do exhaust. You also got to remember it is winter and a lot of people's PCs are also in AC'd rooms. Intake is a bad idea 99% of the time, unless you have a Vaopr-X type of card. I'm willing to bet a huge chunk of intake people are going to come back in later seasons wondering why their H50 is all of the sudden not cooling as good as it used to. The guys who made the H50 say it's meant to be in exhaust. The morons at Corsair did a test with a Vapor-X type of card, and they say it works better in intake. I say don't listen to the guys at Corsair, listen to the guys who made it. Listen to the engineers, not the non trained benchmarkers. If you have an air handler GFX card, and you want to ruin your PC, then put your H50 in an intake setup. I don't care if you ruin your PCs or not, I'm just trying to warn you.

"*Asetek's factory sealed liquid cooling system is specifically designed to exhaust CPU heat directly outside of the chassis.*" - Asetek

If you have an card like this, put your H50 in intake.










If you have an card that has a air handler like this put your H50 in exhaust.










Quote:


Originally Posted by *alayoubi* 
Whats the solution for that if i dont want to change my INTAKE H50 setup to EXHAUST ?

Move your H50 to the front of you case in the 5.25" drive bays.


----------



## Hammerdin

My h50 setup

crappy cell pics


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alayoubi* 
Thanks 4 the advice ,

Whats the solution for that if i dont want to change my INTAKE H50 setup to EXHAUST ?

Put it somewhere else? Add a small duct to either the graphics card or CPU cooler? Or do what I'd do and add an aftermarket cooler which exhausts inside the case. To be honest though, you can probably keep it as is. Keep an eye out for moisture though, just in case.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aardvark54* 
How is it done???? Thought I was pretty well down with the modern world!!

Best method is just to register at photobucket, then your photos are up there forever and you can link to them whenever you want. It's also _fool_proof
















Quote:


Originally Posted by *toast3d* 
thanks again for the advice on shrouding my fans into the rad...

Very nice! Nice looking motherboard you have sitting there too. Also LOVE that tape mod, looks sick. I'm going to make a modders mesh box for mine, but dont tell anyone - they dont know that in my casemod worklog yet









I thought I added you earlier but I shall check.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
<----and yes if your wondering, the picture is me, i am infact a girl









I bet I can find that picture on google with safesearch off!


----------



## toast3d

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Very nice! Nice looking motherboard you have sitting there too. Also LOVE that tape mod, looks sick. I'm going to make a modders mesh box for mine, but dont tell anyone - they dont know that in my casemod worklog yet









I thought I added you earlier but I shall check.

thank you, (It's my i7 920 benchboard hidden unerneath the main computers skirt....
yeah I'll deffinately be following your work log... once the new 6 core processors from intel come out next year i'll be working on my own new build...

Gotta start from scratch or it just isn't worth-while


----------



## Killhouse

Good spirit







If you need any advice or tips just let me know and I'll see what I can do. New builds inspire me, my favourite bit of any project is the design.

Though if you want to be ready for the 6-threads maybe you should start building now!


----------



## alayoubi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


If you have an card like this, put your H50 in intake.










If you have an card that has a air handler like this put your H50 in exhaust.











what about silent Pipe cooling cards like Mine :

http://i.neoseeker.com/neo_image/160...mageaab001.jpg

http://i.neoseeker.com/neo_image/160...mageaab006.jpg


----------



## Killhouse

Yummy passive quietness.

Purely depends on your case, if you have plenty of exhaust you might as well go with intake and enjoy the slightly lower temperatures. But if you have lots of intake then your case temperature is going to be near ambient anyway, so stick with exhaust.


----------



## alayoubi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Yummy passive quietness.

Purely depends on your case, if you have plenty of exhaust you might as well go with intake and enjoy the slightly lower temperatures. But if you have lots of intake then your case temperature is going to be near ambient anyway, so stick with exhaust.


yaah,,,

i have 3 x 120mm fans , 2 fans in front and 1 fan on the side window
and have 3 x 140mm , 2 fans up the case and 1 fan of PSU down the case.


----------



## Killhouse

In my opinion, go with exhaust


----------



## PCSarge

i have mine set to intake... with the 230mm right above it on exhaust







no problems here


----------



## Chr0n1c

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alayoubi*


what about silent Pipe cooling cards like Mine :

http://i.neoseeker.com/neo_image/160...mageaab001.jpg

http://i.neoseeker.com/neo_image/160...mageaab006.jpg


I don't think it would matter either way, just whatever works best for you.

He's saying that dual slot cards like the Vapor don't exhaust the immense heat from the card out of the case, but yours has no fan at all so I would run it as exhaust.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chr0n1c*


He's saying that dual slot cards like the Vapor don't exhaust the immense heat from the card out of the case, but yours has no fan at all so I would run it as exhaust.


He's saying that the hot air coming out of the back of the cards is mixing with the cooler ambient room temperature and creating moisture that the H50 will suck back in. But I dont think it's a big worry - if you look at my case, the hot air from my graphics card is being blasted with cold air from my intake fans, which would create moisture right on my motherboard.

I'm not buying this just yet, not worried until I see some much harder evidence.


----------



## alayoubi

So i'll give it a try as exhaust and see what happen


----------



## PCSarge

yeah , theres a giant 230mm fan blasting on my graphics card, though it exhausts, it blows out colder than room temp, so i'm not worried


----------



## iGuitarGuy

I'm joining the H50 club! I am now, as we speak, putting my new H50 from Best Buy, on my 550.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


I'm joining the H50 club! I am now, as we speak, putting my new H50 from Best Buy, on my 550.


WELCOME to the H50 family!







choose either to set up as intake or exhaust, intake only renders 1-5C difference, but u better have a top exhaust to push the heat out














wheras exhaust blows the hot air out the back, like the rest of your pc


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


WELCOME to the H50 family!







choose either to set up as intake or exhaust, intake only renders 1-5C difference, but u better have a top exhaust to push the heat out














wheras exhaust blows the hot air out the back, like the rest of your pc






































I might end up having the H50 on top of my pc until I get a better case xD
OR I might have it mounted in the front where the ODDs are as intake Push Pull.


----------



## PCSarge

case wise, i reccomend the Cooler Master HAF 932, if your looking for smaller... i cant really reccomend a mid tower... most of the ones i had... kinda sucked @$$ to be honest


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Going to walmart/target tomorrow for antifreeze and distilled water. Before I can finish this, Im gonna be cutting another cable management hole below my mobo, next to my psu. Itll make cabling neater since some cables can go through it and not crowd everything else.
We will see. I also found out, that having the fan-case-shroud-rad-shroud-fan, interferes with my side 120mm fan.. Im not entirely sure how to fix this. Either no fan, or maybe cut a corner off both fans and see if thatll fix the problem.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
case wise, i reccomend the Cooler Master HAF 932, if your looking for smaller... i cant really reccomend a mid tower... most of the ones i had... kinda sucked @$$ to be honest





































I am somewhat disagree with your post, I had no problem H50 within my sweet HEMI 922 aka HAF. HAF 922 is excellet for H50 or the small WC loop like R-120mm. but if someone plan to go the real WC loop with Radiator 240 or 360, yes recommending HAF 932 or Corsair 800D for the WC Loop..

my previous picture of below before I jumped into *real WC loop*:










Yea HAF 922 I definitely *RECOMMENDING* for H50 owners!


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


I am somewhat disagree with your post, I had no problem H50 within my sweet HEMI 922 aka HAF. HAF 922 is excellet for H50 or the small WC loop like R-120mm. but if someone plan to go the real WC loop with Radiator 240 or 360, yes recommending HAF 932 or Corsair 800D for the WC Loop
Yea HAF 932 I definitely *RECOMMENDING* for H50 owners!



all i can say is i went more for space and cable hiding + the added bonus of having a pre-drilled fillport for the res i'm adding shortly, the airflow with the fans is amazing, my H50 is on intake in push/pull, and the heat is automatically sucked out by the top 230mm fan

P.S the hot air blowing out the top, makes the top of the case a good heated footstool in the winter


----------



## PCSarge

bump... i decided to take a few more pics of my rig









and yes if your wondering... i've got it temporarily hooked up in my kitchen... because i'm painting the office i had it in , i recently ran the "windows experience index" and my pc got a score of 6.9 (with 4 of 8gb of RAM, 4GB failed on boot last night so i RMA'd it)


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


bump... i decided to take a few more pics of my rig










Nice setup Sarge







Sorry to hear about your ram... bummer
____________

I modded the exhaust port on my case yesterday so i can place the rad outside the case. Theres a bit more room inside the case now and the rad isnt being effected by case ambients.

Pull>rad>case>shroud>push (exhaust)

Ive also got some Shin Etsu X23 paste to try out... was using MX-3 but I ran out.

Its summer here, so Im not holding my breathe for huge improvements. I let ya know how it goes.

Addit: Ive also got to install my AC Accelero Xtreme GTX pro, so Ive got some work ahead of me tonight


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


case wise, i reccomend the Cooler Master HAF 932, if your looking for smaller... i cant really reccomend a mid tower... most of the ones i had... kinda sucked @$$ to be honest






































Right now, I have a mid-tower. I now have picchas of my build. You can see how I ghetto-ed some cable ties to hold up the rad. It works, I must say.
This is going to be many pics in one post


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Nice setup Sarge







Sorry to hear about your ram... bummer
____________

I modded the exhaust port on my case yesterday so i can place the rad outside the case. Theres a bit more room inside the case now and the rad isnt being effected by case ambients.

Pull>rad>case>shroud>push (exhaust)

Ive also got some Shin Etsu X23 paste to try out... was using MX-3 but I ran out.

Its summer here, so Im not holding my breathe for huge improvements. I let ya know how it goes.

Addit: Ive also got to install my AC Accelero Xtreme GTX pro, so Ive got some work ahead of me tonight










could you post pics? Im interested to see how that looks, as well as how it may affect your temps. (im looking for ways to get better temps out of my h50)


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Here is my build process:
1. Before
2. Box+Old Heatsink+Seagate hard drive I took out+thermal pastes+Corsair fan
3. Installed without fan, figuring out where to put it
4. Different angle
5. Crap, I pulled off a wire to my power button
Continued in next post...


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Note: I have great cable management skills except for on the back
1: This is the wire I broke
2: Soldered it back on
3: The back of my mid-tower case
4: I ghetto-ed the rad
5: This is another pic of the rad


----------



## iGuitarGuy

This is more of what you should see:
1: End result
2: Before temps: Core-Contact Freezer 120mm + Cured Arctic Silver 5
3: After temps: Corsair H50 + Tuniq TX-2

Done!


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
This is more of what you should see:
1: End result
2: Before temps: Core-Contact Freezer 120mm + Cured Arctic Silver 5
3: After temps: Corsair H50 + Tuniq TX-2

Done!

Got the H50 even though it didn't fit. Plan on do any mods? Side panel, cutting holes in the top and bottom. You could try putting the H50 in your 5.25" drive bays. Here are a few ideas. Also check out the *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink*.


Mountain Mods or
Simple 120mm Radiator Mount Mod


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
bump... i decided to take a few more pics of my rig









and yes if your wondering... i've got it temporarily hooked up in my kitchen... because i'm painting the office i had it in , i recently ran the "windows experience index" and my pc got a score of 6.9 (with 4 of 8gb of RAM, 4GB failed on boot last night so i RMA'd it)

How'd you get a 6.9? I have the same hard drive, but the 1 TB version, and yet the Disk data transfer rate (6.9) gets the lowest rate and thus sets overall score. I wonder if it's because I have it on the Gigabyte Sata controller, in IDE mode, and my other drives on the ATI controller, in both RAID & single disk. . . Til I saw your score I thought 5.9 must have been max for Sata drives & that higher scores were capable only by SSDs.


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyclometric* 
How'd you get a 6.9?









Even I only get 5.9 on my Velociraptor.


----------



## arbalest

I call shenanigans!!!


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
Got the H50 even though it didn't fit. Plan on do any mods? Side panel, cutting holes in the top and bottom. You could try putting the H50 in your 5.25" drive bays. Here are a few ideas. Also check out the *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink*.


Mountain Mods or
Simple 120mm Radiator Mount Mod


Well, soon I might just buy a new case. Until then, I could mod this one though. The only thing is I don't know how I would go about cutting into my case (what tools).


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Well, soon I might just buy a new case. Until then, I could mod this one though. The only thing is I don't know how I would go about cutting into my case (what tools).

Hole Saw, Dremel, Files... the basics


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Well, soon I might just buy a new case. Until then, I could mod this one though. The only thing is I don't know how I would go about cutting into my case (what tools).

Check out the mnpctech case mod store. You could use the Mountain Mods drive bay mount, with one of these plus you could use it to cover the holes. Check out the 120mm Billet Fan, 120m Grills, and the laser cut 120mm fan grills.


----------



## Volvo

Hi all, I've just gotten a H50.
Is it normal to hear bubbling from the pump on first time power on?
I haven't attached it to the PC yet - just testing out if the pump worked.


----------



## MRHANDS

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
Hi all, I've just gotten a H50.
Is it normal to hear bubbling from the pump on first time power on?
I haven't attached it to the PC yet - just testing out if the pump worked.

absolutely normal.


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
Hi all, I've just gotten a H50.
Is it normal to hear bubbling from the pump on first time power on?
I haven't attached it to the PC yet - just testing out if the pump worked.

Yes. There is a small amount of air in the loop by design. The bubbling is just the air finding the best spot to chill


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
Hi all, I've just gotten a H50.
Is it normal to hear bubbling from the pump on first time power on?
I haven't attached it to the PC yet - just testing out if the pump worked.

like others have said its normal. lol check out many bubbles were in my H50 after i modded it with the swiftech res.


YouTube- Corsair H50 Mod with Res - Getting the bubbles out


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dude120* 
could you post pics? Im interested to see how that looks, as well as how it may affect your temps. (im looking for ways to get better temps out of my h50)

I will post some pics but I just got the AC Xtreme in and put the case back together and Im stuffed. That alone took 2 hours.

I will remount the H50 pump sometime this week with the Shin Etsu but at the moment, Im hot and sweaty and I wanna game.

ATM temps are not flash [email protected] 36c at idle (room ambient 28c) And Ive got to work on my fans... oh, a PCs work is never done


----------



## jalyst

I'm a little nervous lest everyone in this thread dog-piles me








I know the passionate disdain some users have for CoolIT!*

But is anyone just a little bit curious as to how the new CoolIT sealed loops perform against the H50?
I know the Domino was pretty much a joke, but could they have got it right this time with the Eco & Vantage?

I'm still trying to find some decent sources of comparison, but nothing yet.
Anyone else been looking, have you found anything?

So as to avoid detracting from this thread, I've started a new one:
CooIT Eco/Vantage reviews?

*Be gentle please Ping! LOL


----------



## Volvo

Alright, thanks guys








Installing the thingymajig right now with the Nidec TA450DC on the rad.
When I get enough funds I'll step out and buy a Nidec VA450DC Focused Flow 3.3Amp fan. Now that will be awesome.


----------



## xquisit

I still haven't tried to put new TIM on my H50.

I'm stuck with this AS5, and can't get passed 3.99GHz









I really doubt I hit a wall, and I'm starting to think my temps are a bit off.

What should I try for my next TIM, and my R4s...I'm not sure they are the best...what do you suggest?

Do you mind linking me, because I want to purchase online.

I can't believe I purchased my sig rig, and never had one shipping fee... but as soon as I want something small..there is like a $9 shipping fee... makes me sad







I guess this is why I saved $250+ shopping on Black Friday/Cyber Monday.


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
I still haven't tried to put new TIM on my H50.

I'm stuck with this AS5, and can't get passed 3.99GHz









I really doubt I hit a wall, and I'm starting to think my temps are a bit off.

What should I try for my next TIM, and my R4s...I'm not sure they are the best...what do you suggest?

Do you mind linking me, because I want to purchase online.

I can't believe I purchased my sig rig, and never had one shipping fee... but as soon as I want something small..there is like a $9 shipping fee... makes me sad







I guess this is why I saved $250+ shopping on Black Friday/Cyber Monday.

Have you tried just a straight multi overclock, (20x200) just to see if the chip will even do 4.0 easily?? Also what is your Vcore? To get 4 ghz stable on my 955 All I needed was a little more vcore and a small CPU VDDA voltage adjustment and voila , Prime 95, OCCT, and Intel Burn test stable


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyclometric* 
How'd you get a 6.9? I have the same hard drive, but the 1 TB version, and yet the Disk data transfer rate (6.9) gets the lowest rate and thus sets overall score. I wonder if it's because I have it on the Gigabyte Sata controller, in IDE mode, and my other drives on the ATI controller, in both RAID & single disk. . . Til I saw your score I thought 5.9 must have been max for Sata drives & that higher scores were capable only by SSDs.



the answer is, your running RAID, its forcing your pc to read/write all disks at once, besides that idk, maybe i have a better mobo? asus ftw?














but yes, 6.9 is possible wth WD drives...


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
the answer is, your running RAID, its forcing your pc to read/write all disks at once, besides that idk, maybe i have a better mobo? asus ftw?














 but yes, 6.9 is possible wth WD drives...

It's true about RAID, but that array only contains a single RAID 0 mirror, and it's a single volume which I use for storage of videos, so it's not written often at all. Are all your drives on a single controller? I actually have room on the AMD controller to put the other drive, so maybe I'll image it & move it just to find out. How offtopic is this?!


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
the answer is, your running RAID, its forcing your pc to read/write all disks at once, besides that idk, maybe i have a better mobo? asus ftw?














but yes, 6.9 is possible wth WD drives...

pics or shens

i get 6.3 in the hard drive score and i have 3 x 6400aaks in raid 0 and also short stroked to 10% of total volume.


----------



## Volvo

Proof of a H50!!!
















And Thermalright ChillFactor2 to go with it.
Is this good TIM? =x


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dude120* 
could you post pics? Im interested to see how that looks, as well as how it may affect your temps. (im looking for ways to get better temps out of my h50)

Okay, I got bored of gaming and finished off some more work and took some pics... still haven't applied the Shin Etsu yet, I wanted to see how the two Cooler Master R4 L2Rs went.. so far - very nicely (2c drop at idle)

So here are the pics...
Pic 1) Indicates the final cuts for the rad and slots for tubing on rear exhaust port
Pic 2) Lateral view of pull>rad>case>shroud>push (exhaust)
Pic 3) Lateral / oblique view as above
Pic 4) Speedfan temp & speed reading with new fans.

I trust thats what your where after


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Its summer here









Dont make me start!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
I will post some pics but I just got the AC Xtreme in and put the case back together and Im stuffed. That alone took 2 hours.

I will remount the H50 pump sometime this week with the Shin Etsu but at the moment, Im hot and sweaty and I wanna game.

ATM temps are not flash [email protected] 36c at idle (room ambient 28c) And Ive got to work on my fans... oh, a PCs work is never done









Very nice job, also grats on 1,337 posts









Quote:


Originally Posted by *jalyst* 
I'm a little nervous lest everyone in this thread dog-piles me








I know the passionate disdain some users have for CoolIT!*

But is anyone just a little bit curious as to how the new CoolIT sealed loops perform against the H50?
I know the Domino was pretty much a joke, but could they have got it right this time with the Eco & Vantage?

I'm still trying to find some decent sources of comparison, but nothing yet.
Anyone else been looking, have you found anything?

So as to avoid detracting from this thread, I've started a new one:
CooIT Eco/Vantage reviews?

*Be gentle please Ping! LOL









I'm very interested to see these coolers, it seems that these closed loop systems are really hitting the market seriously. I'll check out that thread tonight.


----------



## SpykeZ

Has anyone determined if sealing off the the fans with a gasket in between fan and radiator helps anything? I asked the maintenance guy at my job if he had any thin rubber back in stock and he gave me like 20 feet of rubber with it being about a foot wide.

Was like dude..I needed like...a foot of it lol


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyclometric* 
It's true about RAID, but that array only contains a single RAID 0 mirror, and it's a single volume which I use for storage of videos, so it's not written often at all. Are all your drives on a single controller? I actually have room on the AMD controller to put the other drive, so maybe I'll image it & move it just to find out. How offtopic is this?!









no only my HDD and DVD RW drive are on the controller(my e-sata port is connected too, but not being used atm) , but as i said, asus makes improvements, i flashed my bios with newest version before test, said it would improve SATA read/write speed, i guess they werent lying lol







anyways, i've always trusted asus....dont really find trust in other mobos anymore


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 







Dont make me start!

Very nice job, also grats on 1,337 posts










Oh Killhouse, you so easily started....







Did I just say that out loud??

Thanks for the gratz... but Im not sure that number is gratz-worthy


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
Has anyone determined if sealing off the the fans with a gasket in between fan and radiator helps anything? I asked the maintenance guy at my job if he had any thin rubber back in stock and he gave me like 20 feet of rubber with it being about a foot wide.

Was like dude..I needed like...a foot of it lol

Since more than half of this page was off topic...I'll requote myself


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
Since more than half of this page was off topic...I'll requote myself

LOL... off topic stuff









Hey, it cant hurt. Whether is earth shakingly effective... thats another question. Give it a fly and see how it goes for you and let us know.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
Since more than half of this page was off topic...I'll requote myself

If there is a gap between the fan and the rad, then sealing that will help for sure









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Oh Killhouse, you so easily started....







Did I just say that out loud??


----------



## RonindeBeatrice

Interesting thread you guys have here, makes me regret leaving the H50 club.


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
If there is a gap between the fan and the rad, then sealing that will help for sure









dunno if theres any gap but hey..I just cut out the gaskets..it's a sloppy job but meh, I just got off work and im tired, doubt I'll see any worthwhile increase :\\


----------



## PCSarge

lol, i dont think any of us can replace killhouse, unless he wants to be replaced







but thanx for the idea though.

i myself am still scared to mod my H50....not a space issue or time issue, its a "what if i screw it up and fail" issue


----------



## SpykeZ

well I made some ghetto gaskets and I got the same temps as normal, doesnt' seem to stay on 54C AS much but meh. Wasted time is wasted time. Dun think these kind of fans suck/push that much air that cracks in between would make such a difference.

At most maybe a 1C drop? Intel Burn Test normally hit 54C and stays there but now they skip between 52C and 54C constantly


----------



## Chr0n1c

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
lol, i dont think any of us can replace killhouse, unless he wants to be replaced







but thanx for the idea though.

i myself am still scared to mod my H50....not a space issue or time issue, its a "what if i screw it up and fail" issue

Same. As long as it's still under warranty I don't think I'll change anything.


----------



## PCSarge

i hate to knock you ati guys out there, but i switched from ati to nvidia a few yrs back, and recently started to test sli vs crossfire....sli wins..big time...theres even SLI certified RAM out there, when theres none for crossfire


----------



## RonindeBeatrice

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
i hate to knock you ati guys out there, but i switched from ati to nvidia a few yrs back, and recently started to test sli vs crossfire....sli wins..big time...theres even SLI certified RAM out there, when theres none for crossfire

That doesn't mean anything... SLI RAM is a term used to indicate it has profiles recorded on the modules ( like EPP profiles) and not all motherboards will pick them up. They're completely unrelated terms.

Don't you be trollin'


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I bought the distilled water and anti-freeze. tonight (after classes), hopefully Ill mix the two and fill the loop and do a short leak test, and continue the test tomorrow. I started cutting a hole in my case for more cable management.


----------



## PCSarge

nooooooooo hes butchering the antec


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:

nooooooooo hes butchering the antec
LOL. Its not going to look bad.. geez. Had plenty of experience with a dremel


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
i hate to knock you ati guys out there, but i switched from ati to nvidia a few yrs back, and recently started to test sli vs crossfire....sli wins..big time...theres even SLI certified RAM out there, when theres none for crossfire

OCZ ATI CrossFire

What cards are you testing? You dont make any sence unless you give us some benches with Similar spec cards.

Crossfire can be win:










Dont troll unless you got an army to back you up.


----------



## cyclometric

I'm on the verge of adding a res and doing the tubing mod. This being my first stab at putting together Ã* la carte WC parts, I was hoping some one could go over my list of parts to make sure I have everything, and that what I have is decent stuff.

The res is Primochill Typhoon Repack. I found a lot of great and cheap goods at Swiftech.com, but they don't have any of the size fittings I need (G1/4"-Barb 1/4" ID). I'll probably get them from Sidewinder, or Danger Den -- I'm trying to decide on plastic or metal... are metal much better?



Have I left anything out, besides the barbed hose fittings I still need? Plus some distilled water for the HydrX. Can you believe the price of that tubing? Ten feet for $2.00!


----------



## gibsonnova74

Please stay on topic!


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
OCZ ATI CrossFire

What cards are you testing? You dont make any sence unless you give us some benches with Similar spec cards.

Crossfire can be win:










Dont troll unless you got an army to back you up.









see one thing you dont get, you can 3-way SLI, and only 2 way crossfire as far as i know
and if you use it, you can also OC all 3 cards to the same speed in SLI,therefore proving a greater advantage


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Am I on the owners list??


----------



## tlxxxsracer

On topic people! take that to a gpu thread... not an h50. sheesh!








Can anyone give an update on their pump who did the res mod?

whats the best way to mix the water and antifreeze? measure out the ratio of 8:2 (water:antifreeze) fill the res, then mix more if I need to fill it up more?


----------



## Sethy666

Is it me or are we having more than the usual visits from moderators?

Did I miss something interesting?

Anyway,,,

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
well I made some ghetto gaskets

I dont think it was a waste of time... you probably saved a heap of people a heap of time by doing this - thanks!


----------



## toast3d

ahhhh

8:2 = 4:1

so I would mix 4 cups DISTILLED water with 1 cup antifreeze....(IF THAT RATIO IS CORRECT) it was your ratio remember!!!
I mean seriously that would give you 5 cups/ 40 ounces of liquid, DO YOU NEED MORE THAN THAT?

then use what you need and throw out rest,..And please discard antifreeze In a proper fashion,... GO GREEN.....!


----------



## arbalest

If you all want to really bleed the system (mostly) right, put your tubes on the radiator, and submerge the tubes and radiator in your coolant mix.

Do NOT submerge pump, or you'll have to take it apart and dry it out before you can fire it up.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:

8:2 = 4:1

so I would mix 4 cups DISTILLED water with 1 cup antifreeze....(IF THAT RATIO IS CORRECT) it was your ratio remember!!!
This is what was said a while back on this forum, when I was questioning.. Im still not entirely sure what ratio to use. I also reading like a 10:1..


----------



## toast3d

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyclometric* 
I'm on the verge of adding a res and doing the tubing mod. This being my first stab at putting together Ã* la carte WC parts, I was hoping some one could go over my list of parts to make sure I have everything, and that what I have is decent stuff.

The res is Primochill Typhoon Repack. I found a lot of great and cheap goods at Swiftech.com, but they don't have any of the size fittings I need (G1/4"-Barb 1/4" ID). I'll probably get them from Sidewinder, or Danger Den -- I'm trying to decide on plastic or metal... are metal much better?



Have I left anything out, besides the barbed hose fittings I still need? Plus some distilled water for the HydrX. Can you believe the price of that tubing? Ten feet for $2.00!

not bad looks good as far as the number game goes... by the way, WE ALL LUV PIC's please up some before during after>>>


----------



## toast3d

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
This is what was said a while back on this forum, when I was questioning.. Im still not entirely sure what ratio to use. I also reading like a 10:1..

honestly I always thought it was like 4 cups distilled water too 3/4 cup of ethylene glycol ,.... whatever ratio that works out to be......
But since antifreeze isnt 100% ethylene glycol the ratio's get crazier based upon which percentage of ethylene glycol your antifreeze manufacturer uses...

and please some correct me if my figures are off!!!!

killhouse, any input on this 1??


----------



## Broom2455

The H50 is fitted









20 degree drop in CPU temp,









15 degrees on each of the cores.









The cooler is mounted in the roof of the HAF 922 after taking the top fan out and putting it on the side also now I can put my other Asus Northbridge/southbridge cooling fan on.

This has dropped NB/SB temps down 5 degrees









This is how the layout inside the case was before:

http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...ictureid=11938

Will update pics later after I see what O/C I can get


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Broom2455* 
The H50 is fitted









20 degree drop in CPU temp,









15 degrees on each of the cores.









The cooler is mounted in the roof of the HAF 922 after taking the top fan out and putting it on the side also now I can put my other Asus Northbridge/southbridge cooling fan on.

This has dropped NB/SB temps down 5 degrees









This is how the layout inside the case was before:

http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...ictureid=11938

Will update pics later after I see what O/C I can get









I'd rep ya... But you should have run your NB in the loop









Check my H50 mod out in my sig, and DO IT!!!









Post pics definitely!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Broom2455* 
The H50 is fitted









20 degree drop in CPU temp,









15 degrees on each of the cores.









The cooler is mounted in the roof of the HAF 922 after taking the top fan out and putting it on the side also now I can put my other Asus Northbridge/southbridge cooling fan on.

This has dropped NB/SB temps down 5 degrees









This is how the layout inside the case was before:

http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...ictureid=11938

Will update pics later after I see what O/C I can get









That, my friend, is most impressive







Cant wait to see your pics


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
lol yes, i have a friend who has 3 9800GTX+'s in 3 way sli on overclock to 1ghz core

therefore, you, havent done your homework, look it up!

the "lol no" part was referring to you thinking that there is no tri or quad cross fire.

ati and nvidia both produce very nice cards. I have used both and have no real preference... just get me the most bang for the buck.


----------



## Garanthor

I've had my H50 since Christmas. Two weeks ago I reported my temps as 31 C idle and 48 C max after 3 hours of Prime 95. Well since then my temperatures have been mysteriously dropping and I have not changed a thing. My TIM is MX2 which has no cure time. My idle temps are now 27 C. So last night I ran Prime 95 for another three hours and to my surprise the max temp reached was only 44 C. Moreover when I stopped Prime 95 my temps dropped faster than ever before. Within 3 or 4 seconds I was at 32 C. After that it took a min or so to get back to 27 C. My ambient temp was exactly 20 C same as before, AMD 965 still at 3.8 Ghz, mem still at 1600 Mhz...everything is the same yet my day to day temps are all 4 degrees lower!! I'm quite happy with this but I really don't understand what is happening here. With these kinds of temps I don't think I'll pursue my original 140mm to 120mm compression experiment.
Has anyone else experienced this?


----------



## toast3d

TIM may have not cured but rather dispersed in a more even fashion over time reveiling a better thermal productivity out of your h50,... however Im still in the belief that maybe your ambient has dropped even if you didnt notice, something as simple as the sun not hitting the case could be a trigger for different temps...


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Thanks for the gratz... but Im not sure that number is gratz-worthy









Try moving the shroud to the pull fan.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *toast3d* 
TIM may have not cured but rather dispersed in a more even fashion over time reveiling a better thermal productivity out of your h50,... however Im still in the belief that maybe your ambient has dropped even if you didnt notice, something as simple as the sun not hitting the case could be a trigger for different temps...

I have the thermostat right beside me. I double checked the temp on it. There is little to no sun in my den and this was all done at night in any case. You may be right about the TIM, I'm just a little surprised that things would change by 4 degrees!! I did also load the beta bios for my Gigabyte MB two days ago but that should not have made a difference (temps were slowly dropping before then anyway).


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
I have the thermostat right beside me. I double checked the temp on it. There is little to no sun in my den and this was all done at night in any case. You may be right about the TIM, I'm just a little surprised that things would change by 4 degrees!! I did also load the beta bios for my Gigabyte MB two days ago but that should not have made a difference (temps were slowly dropping before then anyway).

Is it surprising that my temps dropped 6C (IDLE!!!) by switching to the H50? (Using the same 90CFM fan that was on my Core-Contact Freezer 120mm)


----------



## PCSarge

i must ask this question and post a pic, the H50 is on push intake with the original fan, cause i dont trust 2 fans and a rad hanging on 2 screws from the top of my case, the rear 140mm is on exhaust, its the original cooler master HAF 932 rear case fan, question is, should i mount intake or exhaust in that second fan slot ontop? and no, the pipes arent bending 90 degrees, the camera is deceiveing you


----------



## Pings

PCSarge the 5770 is CF'd are bad ass. OCZ makes CF and SLI ram.


----------



## PCSarge

not cncerned with ram right now pings, my fan problem is more important, i dont want my rig off all night thanx


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
not cncerned with ram right now pings, my fan problem is more important, i dont want my rig off all night thanx
















Id run that second port as a blower (exhaust). If you run an input, its gonna get sucked right out that rear fan.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101*
Try moving the shroud to the pull fan.

Why would I want to do that?


----------



## toast3d

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
not cncerned with ram right now pings, my fan problem is more important, i dont want my rig off all night thanx


























There, DONE...

http://www.geeks.com/imageshare/7/150x150/73CT-01-0418-BK-unit.gif"]http://www.geeks.com/imageshare/7/150x150/73CT-01-0418-BK-unit.gif


I just gave you a HAND!!!!


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Okay, I got bored of gaming and finished off some more work and took some pics... still haven't applied the Shin Etsu yet, I wanted to see how the two Cooler Master R4 L2Rs went.. so far - very nicely (2c drop at idle)

So here are the pics...
Pic 1) Indicates the final cuts for the rad and slots for tubing on rear exhaust port
Pic 2) Lateral view of pull>rad>case>shroud>push (exhaust)
Pic 3) Lateral / oblique view as above
Pic 4) Speedfan temp & speed reading with new fans.

I trust thats what your where after









That's a bit of an air gap you have between the fan and rad. You may want to buy some 120mm gaskets. They'll reduce any vibration/sound and may help your airflow (i.e. reduce static pressure leakage).


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
That's a bit of an air gap you have between the fan and rad. You may want to buy some 120mm gaskets. They'll reduce any vibration/sound and may help your airflow (i.e. reduce static pressure leakage).









Thanks Garanthor. It was late, I was tired









Im thinking of getting some of that adhesive foam lining, you put around windows and doors.
There was an earlier post, *SpykeV* I think, did a ghetto gasket on his fans. He said the results weren't that spectacular.

When I reseat the pump head, I tidy everything up







Thanks for the tip.


----------



## toast3d

Quote:


Originally Posted by *toast3d* 
ROFL,.... Im glad you asked that, was kinda hoping someone would...
It is actually aluminum backed duct adhesive used in commercial and industrial applications for "sealed system engineered specs"

you see I only had 1 spare fan too massacre and I chose too use that 1 on the inside for the shroud....
On the outside I murdered an old dvd case cut 4 equal strips of

1/16 in X 1 1/4in x 4 5/58 in

plastic encased that onto a long strip of the previously mentioned material then adhered both fans together with that in the the middle for a:
2345rpm PUSH/(rad) 2200rpmx2 PULL EXHUAST setup

here in this pic is the final w/ armaflex tape consealing the guaddy "aluminum foil" you lovingly pointed out, thanks by the way for giving me more work on to do on Sunday....lol

http://img687.imageshack.us/i/tinfoil002.jpg/]

Guys I love it you pick out the silver tape but neglect too notice my new board sitting on the ground next the comp... really wanted someon too question why I had a rampage II extreme box and an evga x58 3-way sli mobo sitting next too each other,....

already did this.... put my sys in push /(rad)/pull/ shroud/ pull

it took off about 7-8c just make sure whatever you use too seal the air gaps is not permeable, meaning it will prevent air from moving, most window foam is partially permeable too allow proper installation ARMAFLEX+aluminum tape is a good combo, worked for me


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *toast3d* 
already did this.... put my sys in push /(rad)/pull/ shroud/ pull

it took off about 7-8c just make sure whatever you use too seal the air gaps is not permeable, meaning it will prevent air from moving, most window foam is partially permeable too allow proper installation ARMAFLEX+aluminum tape is a good combo, worked for me









How did you attach all the fans together?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *toast3d* 
killhouse, any input on this 1??

I believe about 4:1 is plenty, from what I remember. If you search this thread using the thread tools you will find out what was suggested 50 pages back.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
i must ask this question and post a pic, the H50 is on push intake with the original fan, cause i dont trust 2 fans and a rad hanging on 2 screws from the top of my case, the rear 140mm is on exhaust, its the original cooler master HAF 932 rear case fan, question is, should i mount intake or exhaust in that second fan slot ontop? and no, the pipes arent bending 90 degrees, the camera is deceiveing you

Exhaust in my opinion. Your case was designed to have those 3 fans in exhaust so the airflow wont be a problem. If you set that top fan as intake you would have all sorts of eddy'ing problems, and it would be drawing in quite warm air anyway.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I believe about 4:1 is plenty, from what I remember. If you search this thread using the thread tools you will find out what was suggested 50 pages back.

Exhaust in my opinion. Your case was designed to have those 3 fans in exhaust so the airflow wont be a problem. If you set that top fan as intake you would have all sorts of eddy'ing problems, and it would be drawing in quite warm air anyway.

Killhouse, can you add me to the list please?









Edit: The fans on the top of your case should definately be exhaust.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Killhouse, can you add me to the list please?









Edit: The fans on the top of your case should definately be exhaust.

Done


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Done









Why thank you, kind sir.


----------



## PCSarge

well i made a home made shroud (made my boyfriend hold it up while i took the pic) anyways, its not even mounted with h50 screws, all regular fan screws and thumb screws, working so far, no more obnoxious noises from the shrouded fan, and a better push through the rad, temps have fallen 2 degrees and continue to do so


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
well i made a home made shroud (*made my boyfriend hold it up while i took the pic*) anyways, its not even mounted with h50 screws, all regular fan screws and thumb screws, working so far, no more obnoxious noises from the shrouded fan, and a better push through the rad, temps have fallen 2 degrees and continue to do so















































Boyfriend. Riiiiiiggghhhttt.


----------



## PCSarge

oh i forgot to mention, atm i have no pull fan (testing without it first, will mount later)


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
well i made a home made shroud (made my boyfriend hold it up while i took the pic) anyways, its not even mounted with h50 screws, all regular fan screws and thumb screws, working so far, no more obnoxious noises from the shrouded fan, and a better push through the rad, temps have fallen 2 degrees and continue to do so

Those thumbscrews are pretty ghetto!







Good results too, 2C is a big drop, can't wait for my fan to come along so I can experience 3.02mm of static pressure









___
EDIT

Quote:

Boyfriend. Riiiiiiggghhhttt.
You're asking for trouble


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
oh i forgot to mention, atm i have no pull fan (testing without it first, will mount later)

Im not touching that last comment but well done on the shroud. Have you decided on what your going to do with that 2nd top fan port?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Im not touching that last comment but well done on the shroud. Have you decided on what your going to do with that 2nd top fan port?

for now it has a 2100rpm exhaust in it, which will later (if necessary) be mounted to the bottom of the rad on pull

oh bump> updated pics with the pc running

ghetto mod ftw? didnt spend anything, i busted up my H50 stock fan for the shroud (and yes, because it burn out on me last week) lol

and as the Crystal Method song goes "Get Busy Child!"


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
ghetto mod ftw?

I think Killhouse was paying you a compliment









Nice job on the fan/shroud work too.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
I think Killhouse was paying you a compliment









Nice job on the fan/shroud work too.

I was, I love ghetto modding







Nice job there, something nice abouce having it up there, stop the rad from hiding so much of the motherboard.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I was, I love ghetto modding







Nice job there, something nice abouce having it up there, stop the rad from hiding so much of the motherboard.

I love your mods, Killhouse.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
I love your mods, Killhouse.

Thanks iguitarguy, nice to know I'm appreciated







I got my new timetable for lectures this semester today, looks like I should be able to get home for a good weekend to finish my acrylic cutting soon. Also got some extravagant plans for some work with modders mesh (casing for my GPU, RAM and radiator configuration) and I might try some brushed aluminium on the motherboard tray.

I checked out the workshop at uni here today, hopefully going along on Wednesday for a look around. I heard they have a laser cutter which is quite exciting







but I'm still quite new around here, I dont know what experience I need to use that kind of machinery!

My new fans were shipped today. A nice Feser 55mm fan to go on my radiator (3.xx mm static pressure







), also ordered white case fans and power button, a T-rad2 GPU cooler to replace my noisy stock cooler on the 4870, and some cable sleeving from MDPC-X









Expect some nice photos soon







I will also do some proper testing on the radiator fan for you guys, I dont know what to expect from this fan since I can't run it in push/pull.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Thanks iguitarguy, nice to know I'm appreciated







I got my new timetable for lectures this semester today, looks like I should be able to get home for a good weekend to finish my acrylic cutting soon. Also got some extravagant plans for some work with modders mesh (casing for my GPU, RAM and radiator configuration) and I might try some brushed aluminium on the motherboard tray.

I checked out the workshop at uni here today, hopefully going along on Wednesday for a look around. I heard they have a laser cutter which is quite exciting







but I'm still quite new around here, I dont know what experience I need to use that kind of machinery!

My new fans were shipped today. A nice Feser 55mm fan to go on my radiator (3.xx mm static pressure







), also ordered white case fans and power button, a T-rad2 GPU cooler to replace my noisy stock cooler on the 4870, and some cable sleeving from MDPC-X









Expect some nice photos soon







I will also do some proper testing on the radiator fan for you guys, I dont know what to expect from this fan since I can't run it in push/pull.

I hope to see what you bring us! Have you thought about modding your H50?


----------



## Killhouse

I have thought about it, yes. I'm not familiar with watercooling at all, and though I'm not worried about my warranty, I just dont think it's something I want to do right now. I have my hands full just trying to finish this acrylic case, and I have plans for an external fan controller/LCD display which will come next









EDIT: Inital plans, it will be a potentiometer/transistor build capable of up to 5A on the fan channel







and I will wire it up with temperature sensors and an internal PCB for plug-and-play with 3-pin and molex connections. I'm also going to put a couple of circuit breakers for LED and Cold Cathode circuits








http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q...ntroller-1.png
(click it, saving on image spam)


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I have thought about it, yes. I'm not familiar with watercooling at all, and though I'm not worried about my warranty, I just dont think it's something I want to do right now. I have my hands full just trying to finish this acrylic case, and I have plans for an external fan controller/LCD display which will come next









EDIT: Inital plans, it will be a potentiometer/transistor build capable of up to 5A on the fan channel







and I will wire it up with temperature sensors and an internal PCB for plug-and-play with 3-pin and molex connections. I'm also going to put a couple of circuit breakers for LED and Cold Cathode circuits








http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q...ntroller-1.png
(click it, saving on image spam)

Well basically, what you would have to do is:
1. Undo the H50 from your case and motherboard
2. Unscrew the top of your H50 (There are two screws on the cpu waterblock)
3. Cut the ends of the tubes, having your H50 over something to catch the liquid, making sure not to cut into the plastic barbs
4. Replace the tubes with some of a certain inner diameter and outer diameter size tubing
5. (Optional) Maybe, put on a 240mm radiator
6. Put a t line into the loop so you can bleed the bubbles
7. Add 4:1 ratio of distilled water and antifreeze (or whatever everyone raves about)
8. Bleed the loop
9. Done, for now.

Edit: This is only the general idea, not the specifics.


----------



## Killhouse

Yeah, but I'm at university with no tools or anything. And it's not something that appeals to me that much to be honest. I love seeing what everyone does but I would rather just go full W/C than mod the H50, and I'm not ready for that yet. I may do that in the summer


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Yeah, but I'm at university with no tools or anything. And it's not something that appeals to me that much to be honest. I love seeing what everyone does but I would rather just go full W/C than mod the H50, and I'm not ready for that yet. I may do that in the summer









Go for the full W/C. What's your max overclock with your 965?


----------



## Killhouse

I havnt honestly tried but dont tell anyone







I got to 3.8 Ghz stable with no problem. I really need to try properly - I havnt even done a straight multi overclock to see what the CPU is capable of on it's own.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Leak testing my mod..







Everything going well so far.
Heres 2 pics


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Oh, here is the new hole i dremeled out of my 902... Not too bad for free hand


----------



## Killhouse

Very nice tlxxx, +rep. Another well executed mod


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Its not in the computer yet







still have a double shroud, ultra kaze to work with







lol
when i get my computer back together tomorrow, ill begin compiling the video tutorial..

does it matter if the rad is upside down or rightside up? (barbs at the top vs the bottom)..


----------



## PCSarge

lol tlx....that should be interesting, i'm gonna wait for my warranty to expire...then disassemble my H50 and attempt to mod it (god knows i have a feeling ll mess it up, but small price to pay for 75$ CDN to replace it lol cant wait... few more months and the A/C comes on, then this pc of mine will be like a giant freezer right now my cpu sits 2 degrees below ambient room temp (ambient is 25C cpu is floating between 22-23 idle) can imagine, the colder the room gets, the colder my pc gets bet i end up below 20C during june/july xD


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Why would I want to do that?

It might be an improvement.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Its not in the computer yet







still have a double shroud, ultra kaze to work with







lol
when i get my computer back together tomorrow, ill begin compiling the video tutorial..

does it matter if the rad is upside down or rightside up? (barbs at the top vs the bottom)..

and no, orientation of barbs makes no diff at all, the rad wil lwork the same regardless


----------



## Chr0n1c

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Leak testing my mod..







Everything going well so far.
Heres 2 pics

Very nice mod. Any leaks as of yet?

I was thinking adding the Micro-Res, but with blue dye.

Prolly won't for a while, I couldn't replace anything if I had a leak.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
i hate to knock you ati guys out there, but i switched from ati to nvidia a few yrs back, and recently started to test sli vs crossfire....sli wins..big time...theres even SLI certified RAM out there, when theres none for crossfire









Good to know. I couldn't justify having 2 GPU's though. Not when 1 can perform as well as I want it to.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
It might be an improvement.

Sorry looser101, I really cant see any difference in load temp, slight improvement on idle from your graphs. Can you give me some numbers to think about.

Like I said, the graphs dont tell me a convincing story.


----------



## PCSarge

i thought as it seems....i may not need a pull fan...my "ghetto mod" shroud is producing a good temp change, i dont need it any lower atm, when summer comes and the A/C is on, the cpu temps will drop like a rock (the tower is 2 feet to the right of an A/C vent) for all those who didnt see my ghetto mod with thumbscrews and my rad relocation, take a look


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:

Very nice mod. Any leaks as of yet?

I was thinking adding the Micro-Res, but with blue dye.

Prolly won't for a while, I couldn't replace anything if I had a leak.
Thanks, nope.. No leaks yet.







I think theres a better chance of leaks if you dont get the right size tubing. Im only using 2 zip-ties per barb with 1/4" ID tubing. I dont like the yellow tint the anti-freeze gave







In the future I may get some pre-mixed coolant instead. The yellow and blue might work, but certainly not preferred.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
If you have a GFX card like the Vapor-X do intake. If you have a GFX that forces hot air out the rear of your case do exhaust. You also got to remember it is winter and a lot of people's PCs are also in AC'd rooms. Intake is a bad idea 99% of the time, unless you have a Vaopr-X type of card. I'm willing to bet a huge chunk of intake people are going to come back in later seasons wondering why their H50 is all of the sudden not cooling as good as it used to. The guys who made the H50 say it's meant to be in exhaust. The morons at Corsair did a test with a Vapor-X type of card, and they say it works better in intake. I say don't listen to the guys at Corsair, listen to the guys who made it. Listen to the engineers, not the non trained benchmarkers. If you have an air handler GFX card, and you want to ruin your PC, then put your H50 in an intake setup. I don't care if you ruin your PCs or not, I'm just trying to warn you.

For what it's worth, I run 2x 5770's that exhaust out the back and I tried both intake and exhaust. I actually run 2c cooler with the fans as intake over exhaust. I also have my A/C unit set to automatically keep the house temperature set to be the same whether it be summer or winter. I haven't fully decided that I'm keeping the H50 in the back of the case either. I'm currently looking at moving it towards the front or top just to see what differences I can get.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Thanks, nope.. No leaks yet.







I think theres a better chance of leaks if you dont get the right size tubing. Im only using 2 zip-ties per barb with 1/4" ID tubing. I dont like the yellow tint the anti-freeze gave







In the future I may get some pre-mixed coolant instead. The yellow and blue might work, but certainly not preferred.

Would you do the honors of helping me do a custom W/C setup with my H50 in a few weeks or so?


----------



## dude120

if say i decided to somehow mount the radiator on or rather near the side 250mm case fan, would it improve temps any?


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Sorry looser101, I really cant see any difference in load temp, slight improvement on idle from your graphs. Can you give me some numbers to to think about.

Like I said, the graphs dont tell me a convincing story.

On my setup, unless the fans suc, the differences are small. What I look for is how well controlled the upward temp spikes are (red) and how deep the downward spikes are. Also how long it takes for the temp to return to normal after it's been under load for a while. Even though average temp may seem about equal, the ability to control temp spikes can affect your stability. The R4 pulling and against the rad has a high pitch whine which goes away with a shroud. Sometimes some combos are pure win. And some... not so much.


----------



## Volvo

Guys, I have a problem.
Where I'm supposed to mount the backplate, I have caps on the other side.
This means, me sticking those pads onto solder. ><

Is it still possible then, to use the H50?


----------



## Volvo

Here's a pic to show what I mean.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:

Would you do the honors of helping me do a custom W/C setup with my H50 in a few weeks or so?
Sure thing. Ill have my video tutorial done by then...

Dun-dun dunnnn.. i made a mistake when drilling the holes in the lip on the drive bays... The inside fan that connects to the drive bay up top sits out, so the res wont mount there.. gonna do more dremeling to the fan mount so it fits.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Sure thing. Ill have my video tutorial done by then...

Dun-dun dunnnn.. i made a mistake when drilling the holes in the lip on the drive bays... The inside fan that connects to the drive bay up top sits out, so the res wont mount there.. gonna do more dremeling to the fan mount so it fits.

I might dremmel a hole in the top of my case this weekend : D


----------



## tlxxxsracer

why are you doing to do that?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
On my setup, unless the fans suc, the differences are small. What I look for is how well controlled the upward temp spikes are (red) and how deep the downward spikes are. Also how long it takes for the temp to return to normal after it's been under load for a while. Even though average temp may seem about equal, the ability to control temp spikes can affect your stability. The R4 pulling and against the rad has a high pitch whine which goes away with a shroud. Sometimes some combos are pure win.

Ahhh... I see where your going now







Okay, I keep that in mind when next Im playing with the setup...

It just never ends, does it?









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo*
Here's a pic to show what I mean.

If I understand you correctly, it shouldnt be a hugh issue. Its a bit hard to tell how thick that plate is...

It just might mean the locking screws will take less turns to be secure on the side(s) with the plate.


----------



## Volvo

Guys, I still have a problem... ^


----------



## reberto

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
Guys, I still have a problem... ^

The bracket is made out of plastic. Just install it.


----------



## Volvo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Ahhh... I see where your going now







Okay, I keep that in mind when next Im playing with the setup...

It just never ends, does it?









Its shouldnt be a hugh issue. Its a bit hard to tell how thick that plate is...

It just might mean the locking screws will take less turns to be secure on the side(s) with the plate.

But the sticky pads will have to go down onto those solders.
Will it ruin the solder/short something out/pop a cap?


----------



## cyclometric

What are the tubing mods people using for coolant? I'm thinking of distilled water + PTNuke or whatever else (but no color... I've been reading it's just not good for the system overall, & the tubing). Might get colored tubing if I can find it.

Didn't I read back a few days ago that the H50 has both aluminum & copper, which means anti-corrosion is real important.

Thanks,


----------



## dude120

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
But the sticky pads will have to go down onto those solders.
Will it ruin the solder/short something out/pop a cap?

No its fine, i had to do that on my evga x58 board. assuming your not taking them off an putting them on frequently, your board will be fine .
How would it short something out, its entirely made of plastic?


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
why are you doing to do that?

So I can mount my rad. Right now, I am ghetto-ing a push-pull setup hanging on the side of my case (see my profile picture). Soon, I might get a new case. Hopefully a Cooler Master 690 II or Storm Sniper.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
But the sticky pads will have to go down onto those solders.
Will it ruin the solder/short something out/pop a cap?

You don't have to use the sticky pads at all. It is just there to help you hold the bracket on while you install from the other side.


----------



## dude120

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
You don't have to use the sticky pads at all. It is just there to help you hold the bracket on while you install from the other side.

Probably better to have the solder go into/push up against the sticky pads than the plastic though.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
But the sticky pads will have to go down onto those solders.
Will it ruin the solder/short something out/pop a cap?

As Dude120 said - it should be okay. You wont short anything out. Its plastic.


----------



## Volvo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
You don't have to use the sticky pads at all. It is just there to help you hold the bracket on while you install from the other side.

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH ><
FACEPALM.
After the previous guy's comment I've stuck it on the board. ><


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Ahhh... I see where your going now







Okay, I keep that in mind when next Im playing with the setup...

It just never ends, does it?









Nope. The weird thing is that some fans don't act as you expect. Just the way the air messes around coming off the blades. I added the H50 fan with and without a shroud to my previous post. For some reason that fan does not seem as happy with a shroud.


----------



## Volvo

Okay thanks guys.
Phew, I thought I wouldn't get any advice until sundown. Happens with most other topics, LOL.


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Capwn* 
Have you tried just a straight multi overclock, (20x200) just to see if the chip will even do 4.0 easily?? Also what is your Vcore? To get 4 ghz stable on my 955 All I needed was a little more vcore and a small CPU VDDA voltage adjustment and voila , Prime 95, OCCT, and Intel Burn test stable









No it must be my temps


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH ><
FACEPALM.
After the previous guy's comment I've stuck it on the board. ><

xD just slowly and patiently peel it off. Try not to get any residue on it.


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
EDIT: Inital plans, it will be a potentiometer/transistor build capable of up to 5A on the fan channel









Sorry, but I have to laugh now! Do you have any idea how much you will be paying for 60W potentiometer? To be honest I'll be surprised if you can even find one!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
Here's a pic to show what I mean.









Erm, that is the wrong way around


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
Okay thanks guys.
Phew, I thought I wouldn't get any advice until sundown. Happens with most other topics, LOL.

Hey... Im sure we are all happy to help. Glad it worked out.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
Sorry, but I have to laugh now! Do you have any idea how much you will be paying for 60W potentiometer? To be honest I'll be surprised if you can even find one!

Erm, that is the wrong way around









xD I was wondering if he knew that or not.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
xD I was wondering if he knew that or not.

I would think it was for photographic purposes only. He was talking about the "sticky stuff"


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
I would think it was for photographic purposes only. He was talking about the "sticky stuff"









What a sly devil.


----------



## Volvo

i put it on that way round.
am i missing something? ><


----------



## Volvo

actually it doesn't really matter if i put it on the other way - the other side has caps too. ><


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
actually it doesn't really matter if i put it on the other way - the other side has caps too. ><

If its on and its staying there, then its all good


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
actually it doesn't really matter if i put it on the other way - the other side has caps too. ><

No, the point is you had it positioned wrong in the photo.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
Here's a pic to show what I mean.









The plastic bracket is suppose to go over the metal bracket on the top right portion of the photo.


----------



## Volvo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
If its on and its staying there, then its all good









it's on. the H50 rivets bite nicely into the 1366 mounting holes and i've got that metal contraption on the top on.
will pop out for lunch now, get the pump going later.


----------



## Volvo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
No, the point is you had it positioned wrong in the photo.

The plastic bracket is suppose to go over the metal bracket on the top right portion of the photo.

I've put it on to the board this way on. LOL.
But everything seems to fit fine though - it's an issue but would this affect my mobo or cpu in any way?


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
it's on. the H50 rivets bite nicely into the 1366 mounting holes and i've got that metal contraption on the top on.
will pop out for lunch now, get the pump going later.

That's what she said.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
I've put it on to the board this way on. LOL.
But everything seems to fit fine though - it's an issue but would this affect my mobo or cpu in any way?

If that is true, it wouldn't even cover the processor.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
If that is true, it wouldn't even cover the processor.









I guess we'll find out after he gets back from lunch....









Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*
That's what she said.


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
I've put it on to the board this way on. LOL.
But everything seems to fit fine though - it's an issue but would this affect my mobo or cpu in any way?

Yes it will, the other side has grooved 'bevels' where the little nuts needs to hook in, else it will just slip (and you may not get enough contact, and it could strip...).


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
I guess we'll find out after he gets back from lunch....


















I hope he just screwed up that picture and not the mounting of his H50
:facepalm:


----------



## xquisit

Who here has a 965 C3 + H50? Please pm me, because I want to compare temps @ volts.

Seems like I might have too much TIM/air bubbles with AS5.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
Who here has a 965 C3 + H50? Please pm me, because I want to compare temps @ volts.

Seems like I might have too much TIM/air bubbles with AS5.

Well, what's your overclock, voltage and load temps? I will tell you if something is wrong


----------



## Volvo

Back. Picture coming up.


----------



## Volvo

I think I did it correctly.


----------



## dude120

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
Who here has a 965 C3 + H50? Please pm me, because I want to compare temps @ volts.

Seems like I might have too much TIM/air bubbles with AS5.

Why didn't you use the stock thermal paste? ive heard its better than AS5


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
I think I did it correctly.









You did it great. How's your temps?


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
I think I did it correctly.









That looks a lot better


----------



## dude120

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
I think I did it correctly.









looks right.


----------



## Volvo

Thanks all








No temps as of yet - I'm still struggling to put everything back into that tiny case of mine.
One question though - do those screws cater for 38mm fans?
They don't seem to...


----------



## Tennobanzai

Got the H50 about 2 weeks ago. Heres some pictures from a happy customer.


----------



## Volvo

That's a tight turn =/


----------



## Tennobanzai

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
That's a tight turn =/

Yeah, i'm a little nervous about that. The thing that sucks about the antec 902 is that the fan controller in the back gets in the way so i can't get so more clearance.

I believe the antec 900 doesnt have this problem


----------



## Volvo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tennobanzai* 
Yeah, i'm a little nervous about that. The thing that sucks about the antec 902 is that the fan controller in the back gets in the way so i can't get so more clearance.

I believe the antec 900 doesnt have this problem

My CPU is dangerously close to the rad.
I think I'm gonna have to pull a stunt like this too.
Please, please don't leak.


----------



## Volvo

The H50 doesn't seem to work with 38mm fans.
ARGH.
I think I've just wasted quite a bit of money buying so many damn Nidecs and now they won't fit.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
The H50 doesn't seem to work with 38mm fans.
ARGH.
I think I've just wasted quite a bit of money buying so many damn Nidecs and now they won't fit.

Why would you buy 38mm fans? xD
Those things are only good for cooling the Southbridge or something. That is, unless that is the depth of a 120mm fan.


----------



## Mishtasteele

I am getting more and more interested in testing out the H50 setup in my rig. Would installing the H50 in my Antec 902 cause any heating issues if my case is all stock and not modded? Do you all recommend me giving this a try? I am excited just thinking about it!


----------



## Tennobanzai

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mishtasteele* 
I am getting more and more interested in testing out the H50 setup in my rig. Would installing the H50 in my Antec 902 cause any heating issues if my case is all stock and not modded? Do you all recommend me giving this a try? I am excited just thinking about it!

I did just that. Nothing modded to my 902 expect i did add a side fan but saw no additional cooling to my cpu


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
The H50 doesn't seem to work with 38mm fans.
ARGH.
I think I've just wasted quite a bit of money buying so many damn Nidecs and now they won't fit.

You could mount one of the fans outside the case


----------



## Volvo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
You could mount one of the fans outside the case ;

Tried that, but it interferes with my PC placement. Tight squeeze at the rear. LOL. Besides, the screws tend to 'eat' into the radiator. I'm afraid of damaging the rad.


----------



## twistid

Will I notice a substantial improvement in cooling from an Artic Freezer 7 PRO to an H50? There was no difference in temp's at all going from stock to Arctic Freezer 7, and I'm averaging 60-63* Celsius while gaming... Once it hit 65.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mishtasteele* 
I am getting more and more interested in testing out the H50 setup in my rig. Would installing the H50 in my Antec 902 cause any heating issues if my case is all stock and not modded? Do you all recommend me giving this a try? I am excited just thinking about it!

I used to run my H50 in an un-modded A902, lovely system for that case. I definetely recommend going to the H50 from stock cooling









Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Why would you buy 38mm fans? xD
Those things are only good for cooling the Southbridge or something. That is, unless that is the depth of a 120mm fan.

He means a fan that is 120mmx120mmx 38mm thickness. They provide more static pressure than a 25mm thickness fan. I'm testing a 55mm thick fan in the next couple of days.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
Tried that, but it interferes with my PC placement. Tight squeeze at the rear. LOL. Besides, the screws tend to 'eat' into the radiator. I'm afraid of damaging the rad.

Thats a pain







Can you use 1 38mm fan and 1 25mm fan on it? The screws should be 6-32 threaded btw, it's an imperial measure that you can find at any home hardware store.

Quote:

Will I notice a substantial improvement in cooling from an Artic Freezer 7 PRO to an H50? There was no difference in temp's at all going from stock to Arctic Freezer 7, and I'm averaging 60-63* Celsius while gaming... Once it hit 65.
65 :O the limit for AMD is chips is 62









Here are my temps at stock clocks on the H50.

Thats 42C load, expect slightly higher temps because I was running that outside of my case. But 45C is very normal for your chip on this cooler. And with some good fans you'll see some lovely temperatures.


----------



## Volvo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Why would you buy 38mm fans? xD
Those things are only good for cooling the Southbridge or something. That is, unless that is the depth of a 120mm fan.

Depth. lol


----------



## Mishtasteele

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tennobanzai* 
I did just that. Nothing modded to my 902 expect i did add a side fan but saw no additional cooling to my cpu

So the other components in your rig are staying fairly cool with the additional side fan? Do you have that side fan set as intake or exhaust? I am just a little bit concerned not having an exhaust fan on the rear of the case if I am using the H50. Especially since I have 2 5770s in the case.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mishtasteele* 
So the other components in your rig are staying fairly cool with the additional side fan? Do you have that side fan set as intake or exhaust? I am just a little bit concerned not having an exhaust fan on the rear of the case if I am using the H50. Especially since I have 2 5770s in the case.

Personally I would leave the H50 in exhaust configuration, though if you do decide to go as intake I'm sure you're topfan will be able to cope. You would want the sidefan as intake to give your graphics cards fresh air.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tennobanzai* 
Yeah, i'm a little nervous about that. The thing that sucks about the antec 902 is that the fan controller in the back gets in the way so i can't get so more clearance.

I believe the antec 900 doesnt have this problem

You can unscrew that fan control completely, it was worth it to me but maybe not for you







I never changed my fan speeds anyway.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dude120* 
if say i decided to somehow mount the radiator on or rather near the side 250mm case fan, would it improve temps any?

Probably not, the rad is designed to go with 120mm fans. If you could somehow funnel the airflow so it all goes through the H50 then you'd see some good results, but those large fans have notoriously low static pressure, and if you didnt find a way to seal it to the edges of the fan then the air would just go around the radiator rather than through it.


----------



## Tennobanzai

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
You can unscrew that fan control completely, it was worth it to me but maybe not for you







I never changed my fan speeds anyway.

Where did you end up putting the fan control? Or did u replace the fans?


----------



## Killhouse

for the 120mm exhaust I poked it through a PCI slot and ble-tacked it onto the back of the case. For the 200mm exhaust I just set it to low speed and put the cable down the back of the case out of reach.


----------



## Tennobanzai

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
for the 120mm exhaust I poked it through a PCI slot and ble-tacked it onto the back of the case. For the 200mm exhaust I just set it to low speed and put the cable down the back of the case out of reach.









Thanks, I'll try this now.


----------



## Tennobanzai

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mishtasteele* 
So the other components in your rig are staying fairly cool with the additional side fan? Do you have that side fan set as intake or exhaust? I am just a little bit concerned not having an exhaust fan on the rear of the case if I am using the H50. Especially since I have 2 5770s in the case.

I had the side fan set as an intake. The only component that i saw a reduction in temp was the video card, and that was only about 1-2C with furmark. I have taken off the side fan since i have been messing around with my computer so much lately that it makes too much of a hassle.

If your contemplating on whether to install it now or later, i would just do it now if i were you. If you think about it, it will keep your temps down more then the stock (OEM) cooler, so there won't be any harm.

BTW, your planning on installing the H50 as an intake? I believe most people have seen lower temps as an exhaust. It would probably be beneficial since those 5770s could possibly create more heat.

These are my temps with just a pull (exhaust)


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tennobanzai* 
BTW, your planning on installing the H50 as an intake? I believe most people have seen lower temps as an exhaust.

You actually see lower temps with intake because the H50 is getting fresh, cool air. But you'd be kicking yourself in the foot, chucking all that hot air inside the case onto your graphics cards


----------



## SpeedNut

You can add me to the club. Just picked one up last week for my new i7-920 build. I figure this would be a good tiptoe in the the liquid cooling pool.


----------



## SpykeZ

We should do what we did in the 939 appreciation club, make all names a "link" which pulls up the temps of which cpu etc so people can get an idea of what the H50 is doing for them. Maybe eve a googlespread sheet of sorts? Intel spreadsheet and AMD spreadsheet, what voltages, clocks and which fans using which configuration.


----------



## Epsi

Got a H50 running also, and im loving it. Its mounted as a rear intake fan in a Cooler Master CM690.

It keeps my Phenom II 965 C2 nice and cool.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Epsi* 
Got a H50 running also, and im loving it. Its mounted as a rear intake fan in a Cooler Master CM690.

It keeps my Phenom II 965 C2 nice and cool.

Sounds good! Welcome to the club


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
You actually see lower temps with intake because the H50 is getting fresh, cool air. But you'd be kicking yourself in the foot, chucking all that hot air inside the case onto your graphics cards









actually killhouse, i mounted top of my case last night, as you saw in my pics, i moved that top exhaust to pull this morning to do some temp tests, there is a diff, dropped from 23-20C , so i'ma leave it as pull fan till i get higher rpm fans, 2100 rpm fans that only run at a max of 1800? who invented these cheap things? anyways, have fun trying to get my temps boys...i find this rather amusing, what i did to counter the heat, was set my side 230mm fan as exhaust, and its doing quite a fine job i might add, my 9800 GTX+ is still sitting at 32C idle, on intake in side panel it only drops to 31C, so not a really big diff, load temps only changed up by 1C too, cpu load currently sits at 34C, and only some of the hot air hits my graphics card, if you look at the pics, it blows right past it it only manages to hit about 1/4 of the rear half


----------



## NerfHurder

New to OC.net and love the H50...Glad to be a parts of the Official. Ill throw some pics of my system soon. =)


----------



## Xs1nX

Pretty simple question here..
Are these the screws needed to do the push pull thang with the H50 ?









http://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com...5140564&sr=1-1


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xs1nX* 
Pretty simple question here..
Are these the screws needed to do the push pull thang with the H50 ?









http://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com...5140564&sr=1-1

You need 1 1/4" long, not 1/4"







but the 6-32 was right.

I'll be adding people later. I just strapped on my feser 55 onto the radiator and testing is in progress


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xs1nX* 
Pretty simple question here..
Are these the screws needed to do the push pull thang with the H50 ?









http://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com...5140564&sr=1-1

Check out the *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink*.


----------



## Xs1nX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
Check out the *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink*.










I know what im looking for, im just checking to make sure what is linked is what i need


----------



## Killhouse

I recently purchased a Feser Triebwerk 122 55mm for my H50 configuration, and I thought I'd show you the results.
*
ORIGINAL SETUP:*
Using the stock Corsair fan and an Antec tri-cool from my old case.
Some pictures in case you're interested.


*THE FAN:*
A quick snap of the box, also bought some new case fans but I wont waste time with them.









This fan is MASSIVE. Pictures give you a good impression but it's not until you take it out of the box and pick it up that you realise. It has a very nice build quality to it, and it's transparent case/blades are a nice feature. It certainly looks a lot nicer than many of it's rivals, such as the San Aces or the UK3K.

















The fan comes with 2 sets of screws - one set of M3 and one set of M4, 8 screws in total. It also comes with a bolt for each screw. Unfortunately the H50 is threaded to 6-32 so I had to "ghetto-mod" the installation with an elastic band. I'll be ordering some nice machine screws this week, it has no perceivable effect on temperatures but it's something worth noting if you're planning to install this on a 6-32 radiator or heatsink.


















You can really appreciate how big this thing is now, its thicker than 2 25mm fans put together







*

TESTING:*
The test rig is my sig rig, stock clocks and stock voltages:

















*BEFORE:*
STOCK CORSAIR FAN + ANTEC TRICOOL
LOW SPEEDS
AMBIENT27 C
IDLE29 C
LOAD46 C

STOCK CORSAIR FAN + ANTEC TRICOOL
HIGH SPEEDS
AMBIENT 27 C
IDLE29 C
LOAD43 C

*AFTER:*
STOCK CLOCKS AND VOLTS
AMD PHENOM II X4 965 3.4Ghz

FESER 55mm MIDSPEED 1800RPM FAN
LOW SPEED - 650RPM - 1000RPM
AMBIENT28 C
IDLE28 C
LOAD44 C

HIGH SPEED - 1500-1800 RPM
AMBIENT 28 C
IDLE28 C
LOAD41 C

*Conclusion:*
This is a gorgeous fan for a radiator setup, when you first plug it in at 12V it feels very, very powerful. It's also noisy at that speed, the manufacturer states 30dB - I would say it's not as loud as that, but it's still not a comfortable amount of noise. This 12V makes the fan spin at 1800RPM and move a lot of air, but the thing that really makes this fan fantastic is that you can turn it right down to 600RPM, this fan will start spinning at 35% power draw and will keep spinning down to 25%. At anything less than 1000RPM this fan is as good as silent, and the temperatures are the same as my old setup. I have it set up to run at 600RPM until 40C, when it will go to 1000RPM.
_I am very impressed with the great range of power this fan has, you can get from silence to leafblower with ease and I would recommend this fan for a silent build or for overclocking._ One can only imagine the raw power available from a push/pull configuration with this fan.

Before








After









*FUTURE TESTING:*
Due to my limited screws I couldnt mount the fan as a pull fan, I really want to try this because the fan has a built-in shroud design (a cone on the motor unit) when pulling. I will order some extra screws soon so that I can try this, I predict quite similar results but maybe slightly better.


----------



## jpeppard

I just installed my H50 last night, and i have a few questions. I mounted the radiator on the back of my case, as intake, with a fan diagonal to it to pull the hot air out, i was wondering if i should reverse this set up so i have the the case fan pulling cold air into the case and the h50 fan pulling this air across the radiator and exhausting it out the back, or if my current set up is fine. I'm currently idling at 30c, this seems a little high. My other question was whether or not it's okay to have to radiator upside down, with the pipes on the top, or if this will put strain on the pump.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Got my computer back together... I wasnt expecting the Scythe Kaze to be that loud. LOL








I am a little dissapointed that my idle temperatures havent dropped still running at 35C idle. I havent tried a full load test yet. Ill see in a couple of days if the temps drop after the TIM breaks in some.

For some reason I cant lower the rpm of the Scythe.. I tried using speedfan and the asus pc probe II..

But the mod is complete


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Nope. The weird thing is that some fans don't act as you expect. Just the way the air messes around coming off the blades. I added the H50 fan with and without a shroud to my previous post. For some reason that fan does not seem as happy with a shroud.

Im going to try another shroud, as you suggested - there is nothing to loose and if works - great!

Im also going to get some gaskets to mount between the fans and shroud(s). Id like to see if this makes any difference to the static pressure.

Ill be using these:










Quote:

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=13162

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tlxxxsracer*
But the mod is complete

Nice mod bro... what TIM are you using again?

@killhouse - love your work man


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
actually killhouse, i mounted top of my case last night, as you saw in my pics, i moved that top exhaust to pull this morning to do some temp tests, there is a diff, dropped from 23-20C , so i'ma leave it as pull fan till i get higher rpm fans, 2100 rpm fans that only run at a max of 1800? who invented these cheap things? anyways, have fun trying to get my temps boys...i find this rather amusing, what i did to counter the heat, was set my side 230mm fan as exhaust, and its doing quite a fine job i might add, my 9800 GTX+ is still sitting at 32C idle, on intake in side panel it only drops to 31C, so not a really big diff, load temps only changed up by 1C too, cpu load currently sits at 34C, and only some of the hot air hits my graphics card, if you look at the pics, it blows right past it it only manages to hit about 1/4 of the rear half









Been there, done that. Thanks for playing.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Im going to try another shroud, as you suggested - there is nothing to loose and if works - great!

Im also going to get some gaskets to mount between the fans and shroud(s). Id like to see if this makes any difference to the static pressure.

Ill be using these:

http://www.overclock.net/attachment....1&d=1265149430

You linked to a 140mm version. You need 120mm. Easy mistake to make. If you wanna try before you buy just tape the joint and see. I didn't notice any difference by making it 100% air tight.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

What's the best thermal paste to use on my h50?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
You linked to a 140mm version. You need 120mm. Easy mistake to make. If you wanna try before you buy just tape the joint and see. I didn't notice any difference by making it 100% air tight.

Yeah,.. me bad. Wrong link. I understand I need the 120mm









Since I use 2 x screws in the diagonal to hold the fans / shrouds in place, it tends to make a gap anyway. Call me pedantic but i like my stuff to look good. Im all for ghetto but if there is a piece of gear available, Ill go the gear over ghetto









New link: Does not include fan








http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=13163

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*
What's the best thermal paste to use on my h50?

Ive used Mx-3. Im going to try some Shin-Etsu X23 next. Heres a graph for information. If you can find some, Indigo Xtreme is wicked!


----------



## Agaeris

Been lurkin for a while, have my H50 on for its third day of duty and been playin with it. So I was thinking, that pump right on the WB has got to be generating some unwanted CPU heat, and I already have a Spotcool installed for my X58 sink (med speed, high is a bit noisy) that is also pushing some air on the pump. The pump is warm to the touch under norm operating conditions (before spotcool).

So long story short, unplug the spot and CPU jumps 4-5C in under 2 minutes! Plug it back in, temps drop back down after a few. Got me thinkin, has anyone ever run the pump coverless? I mean, sure we can play with fans (workin on it) and we can mod the lines and res (waitin for UPS) to drop a few C, how about bringin the pump temp down running topless or direct airflow or sumthin?


----------



## 428cobra

i own it and i like it very simple and it works


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
We should do what we did in the 939 appreciation club, make all names a "link" which pulls up the temps of which cpu etc so people can get an idea of what the H50 is doing for them. Maybe eve a googlespread sheet of sorts? Intel spreadsheet and AMD spreadsheet, what voltages, clocks and which fans using which configuration.

Check my PM to you.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Agaeris* 
Got me thinkin, has anyone ever run the pump coverless? I mean, sure we can play with fans (workin on it) and we can mod the lines and res (waitin for UPS) to drop a few C, how about bringin the pump temp down running topless or direct airflow or sumthin?

Nice work and welcome to the forum and our thread. Nice Gigabyte goodness there









If your thinking what I think, your thinking, the cover keeps the water in... so, no, I dont think thats feasible.

However, I appreciate your feedback on the spot cooler on the pump... There was a vigorous discussion a lil while back as to whether this would work. I dont believe anyone tried it... until now. Nice work!.

Hey *Killouse*... remember this discussion?

Quote:

http://www.overclock.net/8247626-post2121.html


----------



## Agaeris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
If your thinking what I think, your thinking, the cover keeps the water in... so, no, I dont think thats feasible.


The black plastic outer cover? Really? I though I saw someone running w/o one to leak test?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Got my computer back together... I wasnt expecting the Scythe Kaze to be that loud. LOL








I am a little dissapointed that my idle temperatures havent dropped still running at 35C idle. I havent tried a full load test yet. Ill see in a couple of days if the temps drop after the TIM breaks in some.

For some reason I cant lower the rpm of the Scythe.. I tried using speedfan and the asus pc probe II..

But the mod is complete









I did a lot of research on the question of fans and given my requirement to get the most for the least amount of noise I settled on 2 S-Flex 1600 rpm fans. Even though they're only 25mm thick, they beat out the Ultra Kaze 3000 rpm fan when it was dialed down to a tolerable noise level (i.e. 7 volts) and did it while being even quieter. here is the link FYI: http://www.****************/reviews/...e_120mm_fans/5


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Agaeris* 
The black plastic outer cover? Really? I though I saw someone running w/o one to leak test?

Ive seen a lot of leak test photos but I dont recall it... can you find a pic or post?


----------



## Agaeris

Here are some pics



















This last one also has the copper block removed, but the top area does not contain liquid.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Agaeris* 
Here are some pics











Well done,,, you are absolutely right. Me=









Having seen that, I really cant image why that wouldnt work. Having said that... when are you going to try it?


----------



## Agaeris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Having said that... when are you going to try it?









Darn UPS tracking says I will try this on friday









Come to think about it, that could be a good factor to why these things idle higher than thier load temps might suggest. Will report back end of week with plenty of pics and temps as I test out several things.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Agaeris* 
Darn UPS tracking says I will try this on friday









I look forward to the pics of your mod. I will try the spot cooler on the pump head when I get home tonight and see if I can replicate your findings.


----------



## Garanthor

Agaeris said:


> Here are some pics
> 
> Interesting, I wonder if a spot cooler on this exposed pump would make a significant enough difference to compensate for the reduced aesthetics. If it does, perhaps Corsair would consider making the lower pump housing out of aluminum and add some low profile cooling fins.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Agaeris* 
Been lurkin for a while, have my H50 on for its third day of duty and been playin with it. So I was thinking, that pump right on the WB has got to be generating some unwanted CPU heat, and I already have a Spotcool installed for my X58 sink (med speed, high is a bit noisy) that is also pushing some air on the pump. The pump is warm to the touch under norm operating conditions (before spotcool).

So long story short, unplug the spot and CPU jumps 4-5C in under 2 minutes! Plug it back in, temps drop back down after a few. Got me thinkin, has anyone ever run the pump coverless? I mean, sure we can play with fans (workin on it) and we can mod the lines and res (waitin for UPS) to drop a few C, how about bringin the pump temp down running topless or direct airflow or sumthin?

It's interesting that you should mention this, I noticed today when replacing my fans that the pump is very hot actually. I'm forced to modify my opinion and say that having the spotcool directed at the pump might make a difference, because if the cover is that hot to the touch, then presumably the water is being heated that much too. The power draw from the pump is something like 5W though, so I think most of that heat I'm feeling is directly from the CPU (140W). Interesting results nonetheless. _Added._

Quote:


Originally Posted by *428cobra* 
i own it and i like it very simple and it works

_Added_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Hey *Killouse*... remember this discussion?

Yes, I think in writing what I just wrote I can see why it's hot. And I suppose that because it is so hot it is clearly conducting heat to the air, if you can convect that air away from it then there should be some healthy effects.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Epsi* 
Got a H50 running also, and im loving it. Its mounted as a rear intake fan in a Cooler Master CM690.

It keeps my Phenom II 965 C2 nice and cool.

_Added._

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NerfHurder* 
New to Overclock.net and love the H50...Glad to be a parts of the Official. Ill throw some pics of my system soon. =)

Welcome and _added._

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jpeppard* 
I just installed my H50 last night, and i have a few questions. I mounted the radiator on the back of my case, as intake, with a fan diagonal to it to pull the hot air out, i was wondering if i should reverse this set up so i have the the case fan pulling cold air into the case and the h50 fan pulling this air across the radiator and exhausting it out the back, or if my current set up is fine. I'm currently idling at 30c, this seems a little high. My other question was whether or not it's okay to have to radiator upside down, with the pipes on the top, or if this will put strain on the pump.

Welcome and _added._ The best method to determine if push or pull is best is trial and error. Generally I would say keep the H50 in exhaust, but if you have good case exhaust then you could switch this around.


----------



## Agaeris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
perhaps Corsair would consider making the lower pump housing out of aluminum and add some low profile cooling fins.









Now your talkin! Have em release a high performance OC Edition, the H50OC!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Agaeris* 
Now your talkin! Have em release a high performance OC Edition, the H50OC!









I want to see someone pull the cover off and attach heatsinks to the pump


----------



## purduepilot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I want to see someone pull the cover off and attach heatsinks to the pump









I just had a brilliant idea of what to do with my stock HSF!!!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *purduepilot* 
I just had a brilliant idea of what to do with my stock HSF!!!























I had a nice idea too, pull the cover off, add heatsinks, cover in modders mesh...


----------



## purduepilot

So without going back through all 305 pages of this thread, what's the general opinion on the thermal compound that comes with the H50? Should I upgrade? If so, to what? I won't bother for a degree or two, but if I can get an extra 5 degrees or so I'm willing to spend ten bucks for that.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *purduepilot* 
So without going back through all 305 pages of this thread, what's the general opinion on the thermal compound that comes with the H50? Should I upgrade? If so, to what? I won't bother for a degree or two, but if I can get an extra 5 degrees or so I'm willing to spend ten bucks for that.

It's Shin Etsu, which is great already. The best upgrade would be IC Diamond 7, MX3 and AS5 are both slight downgrades.

If you wanted the absolute best you could look at Indigo Extreme, but thats really too impractical to use.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
It's Shin Etsu, which is great already. The best upgrade would be IC Diamond 7, MX3 and AS5 are both slight downgrades.

If you wanted the absolute best you could look at Indigo Extreme, but thats really too impractical to use.

Shin Etsu is included with the H50???? I never got any...


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Shin Etsu is included with the H50???? I never got any...

It's the tape on the bottom of it


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
It's the tape on the bottom of it









:Facepalm to self:
I wiped that stuff off!!! >< I thought it was some lower quality stuff.
Now I am off to get some IC Diamond


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I had a nice idea too, pull the cover off, add heatsinks, cover in modders mesh...









So... now Im thinking (which is very dangerous according to my wife)

Which screws do I need to remover to detach the cover? I note there is already a heatsink on there... would you bother sinking the caps?

And what is that black thing in the middle of the caps??

@Agaeris - You may have just sparked a frenzy of new mods


----------



## mim3tic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
It's Shin Etsu, which is great already. The best upgrade would be IC Diamond 7, MX3 and AS5 are both slight downgrades.

If you wanted the absolute best you could look at Indigo Extreme, but thats really too impractical to use.

Shin-Estu has shown to not only be on par with IC7 in real world use but to even beat it.


----------



## Agaeris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
I note there is already a heatsink on there... would you bother sinking the caps?

And what is that black thing in the middle of the caps??

@Agaeris - You may have just sparked a frenzy of new mods










There sure is, kinda silly that they would cover it up so it cant get any airflow then









I think the black thing is prolly a bearing or casing holding the top end of the pump or rotor assy.

Look back to the OP for the tubing mods, they show which two screws to remove to get cover off


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mim3tic* 
Shin-Estu has shown to not only be on par with IC7 in real world use but to even beat it.


the only thing about the Shin Etsu that's comes on the H50 is that it is an awfully thick layer of it. When I reseated mine last week, I was surprised at how thickly it was caked on there. I can't say whether or not it affected the performance of the stuff, but I had bought some ICD7 just for the job and temps are good. I have moved so much stuff around now that any scientific approach to understanding what affects what is totally lost. I'm happy with the results though. Idle 29, load about 47


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
So... now Im thinking (which is very dangerous according to my wife)

Which screws do I need to remover to detach the cover? I note there is already a heatsink on there... would you bother sinking the caps?

And what is that black thing in the middle of the caps??

@Agaeris - You may have just sparked a frenzy of new mods



















..........seem's to me that IF that little heatsink is enclosed inside of the cover.......there isn't much for cooling (AIR) on those heatsink-fin's, except WHAT's under that cover ! ! >>>>> you would need to make an opening for that area of the heatsink > > > on the cover < << for it to REALLY have some good cooling affect upon what it is attach'd to....







...







...







. . . again, jst my 2







of observation into this . . .









mr. Charles .









.


----------



## Agaeris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr. Charles* 
>>>>> you would need to make an opening for that area of the heatsink > > > on the cover < << for it to REALLY have some good cooling affect upon what it is attach'd to.

.

Or just run topless







ahem, I mean coverless


----------



## Sethy666

okay - found it...


----------



## looser101

That little heatsink is just to cool the motor driver integrated circuit (the chip that powers the pump motor).


----------



## Agaeris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
That little heatsink is just to cool the motor driver integrated circuit (the chip that powers the pump motor).

Your right, though the issue isnt that one little heatsink, the issue is everything under that cover gets practically zero airflow and does a fantastic job keeping in a lot of heat. We are just theorizing about potential overall temp reduction by removing said cover. I will test and report, but will have to wait until end of week when I am ready to start modding.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Agaeris*
Got me thinkin, has anyone ever run the pump coverless?

Agaeris, Yes I recall that. Few months or weeks ago I saw photo of rig's pump unit has runs without cover somewhere here or another forum. I will try to find it..


----------



## mim3tic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyclometric* 
the only thing about the Shin Etsu that's comes on the H50 is that it is an awfully thick layer of it. When I reseated mine last week, I was surprised at how thickly it was caked on there. I can't say whether or not it affected the performance of the stuff, but I had bought some ICD7 just for the job and temps are good. I have moved so much stuff around now that any scientific approach to understanding what affects what is totally lost. I'm happy with the results though. Idle 29, load about 47

I'm with you on that. Funny thing about TIMS is every person get's different results with them since there are so many variables that can effect the outcome. In the End use what ever works best for you. I hear that IC7 likes to polish the CPU(well ti is diamond particles)

Also it's probably best to wipe the TIM on the H50 and apply manually Shin Estu yourself or whatever TIM you like.


----------



## Sethy666

Well, if Im going to run a 'topless' pump, I might as well review my entire setup. Heres the plan..

1) Run topless and attempt sinking the caps and replace current stock sink (cooling with antec spot cooler)

2) Replace Mx 3 TIM with Shin Etsu X 23

3) Fans???
Push>Shroud>case>rad>pull
Currently running CM R4s on both push & pull
*Can anyone suggest a better alternative to these fans? Search is driving me nuts!*

4) Based on looser101's suggestion
Push>Shroud>case>rad>*shroud*>pull (nothing to loose with this)

5) Place 120mm gaskets between fans and shrouds. (why? Why not?)

Whew... there goes my week-end









Any suggestions on those fans would be great. I will be purchasing from the site below, so pls dont suggest something that is not on that web page.

Quote:

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...Path=207_9_510
Any other suggestions welcome


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Well, if Im going to run a 'topless' pump, I might as well review my entire setup. Heres the plan..

1) Run topless and attempt sinking the caps and replace current stock sink (cooling with antec spot cooler)

2) Replace Mx 3 TIM with Shin Etsu X 23

3) Fans???
Push>Shroud>case>rad>pull
Currently running CM R4s on both push & pull
*Can anyone suggest a better alternative to these fans? Search is driving me nuts!*

4) Based on looser101's suggestion
Push>Shroud>case>rad>*shroud*>pull (nothing to loose with this)

5) Place 120mm gaskets between fans and shrouds. (why? Why not?)

Whew... there goes my week-end









Any suggestions on those fans would be great. I will be purchasing from the site below, so pls dont suggest something that is not on that web page.

Any other suggestions welcome









Nothing wrong with those fans...


----------



## Agaeris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
3) Fans???
Push>Shroud>case>rad>pull
Currently running CM R4s on both push & pull
*Can anyone suggest a better alternative to these fans? Search is driving me nuts!*

I will be testing multiple fan setups over the next week, but quite frankly the R4's are fabulous for CFM/pressure vs. noise.


----------



## tvick47

Just bought an H50


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Nothing wrong with those fans...


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Agaeris*
but quite frankly the R4's are fabulous for CFM/pressure vs. noise.


Thats why Im running them now









However some say CM, others Zalman, others Sythe... ahhhh! I just dont want to get the system back together and then pull it apart again.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tvick47* 
Just bought an H50









Welcome to our house of fun! Enjoy your stay and dont forget to post pics of your setup... we love pics









Killhouse will no doubt add you to the members list when he is finished at the keg party


----------



## Volvo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I used to run my H50 in an un-modded A902, lovely system for that case. I definetely recommend going to the H50 from stock cooling









Thats a pain







Can you use 1 38mm fan and 1 25mm fan on it? The screws should be 6-32 threaded btw, it's an imperial measure that you can find at any home hardware store.


I'll get some soon enough. Hmm.. How tight a bend can I negotiate and still ensure that the tubes won't break/leak? I have a small mobo, small casing, and the tubes are so stiff I daren't bend them in case the thing breaks at the barbs.

EDIT: BTW Add moi to list, thanx.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Welcome to our house of fun! Enjoy your stay and dont forget to post pics of your setup... we love pics









Killhouse will no doubt add you to the members list when he is finished at the keg party









I shall add you when Im done soldering some stuff up









Also check this out sethy
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8364079


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
I'll get some soon enough. Hmm.. How tight a bend can I negotiate and still ensure that the tubes won't break/leak? I have a small mobo, small casing, and the tubes are so stiff I daren't bend them in case the thing breaks at the barbs.

EDIT: BTW Add moi to list, thanx.









Nothing more acute than 90 degrees. Unless the bend is gradual curve to that angle - the gentler, the better. I dont think the tubes will let you make an acute bend anyway.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse*
Also check this out sethy

Yep - saw that, nice work! That beast isnt available on the website Im purchasing from


----------



## mr-Charles

...jst O-bit-OFF-topic > > >

........

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 







......Killhouse will no doubt add you to the members list when he is finished at the *keg party*









. . . . .







...................







...........WTH ! ! !







. . . . . and i wasn't /didn't even get an invitation ! ! !







......







. . . . . .gzzzzzz......









mr. Charles .









.


----------



## McLaren_F1

I'm curious, Do you guys still use the stock corsair fan that it comes with H50?


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Did I do something wrong to why my temps didnt change from before the mod to after. (I even lapped the cpu and h50).
Also, Im not sure why I cant lower the fan speed on the ultra Kaze..


----------



## Agaeris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Did I do something wrong to why my temps didnt change from before the mod to after. (I even lapped the cpu and h50).
Also, Im not sure why I cant lower the fan speed on the ultra Kaze..

Depending on the TIM you used and how it was applied, it may need time to burn in/break in. Also, did you do a load test, IE prime95 or similar? Idle temps are not that great an indicator.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Hmm true.. Didnt think about that. I used AS5 (I used that when I got the h50 without knowing what TIM came on to begin with.)


----------



## Capwn

Speaking of TIM. I just reseated my H50 ( last seat I did at a LAN and I was in a rush. ) long story short I had used too much. Testing it now tho. Instant ~8* C load drop. Just wow I never ever knew using a little too much TIM could affect temps that much.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

My full load temps are 44C.. Same as before, maybe after a few days itll drop since the TIM will settle in.

Should I have the top fill port unscrewed or off for a day or so? Or what


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1* 
I'm curious, Do you guys still use the stock corsair fan that it comes with H50?

I use to. Then I moved to a Cooler Master R4. The corsair isnt a bad fan.. it does the job as advertised.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Capwn*
wow I never ever knew using a little too much TIM could affect temps that much.

Yep - too much acts as an insulator


----------



## purduepilot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Nothing more acute than 90 degrees. Unless the bend is gradual curve to that angle - the gentler, the better. I dont think the tubes will let you make an acute bend anyway.

[nitpick]Actually the angle shouldn't really matter, just the radius of the curve. I'm guessing a 3-4 inch radius is safe.[/nitpick] My personal concern when installing was more about how much stress I would be putting on the joints at the radiator and the pump, than bending the tubes so much they would crack.


----------



## Killhouse

Much better, I think you'll agree. You can just about see the H50 in the background so it's still on topic. I've got some nice fresh air onto my new H50 fan now, temps dropped a bit


----------



## Agaeris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Hmm true.. Didnt think about that. I used AS5 (I used that when I got the h50 without knowing what TIM came on to begin with.)

AS5 is kinda an old dog now, not quite the best but still ok; and AS lists its cure time as 200 hours! Anyways, you should def. see those temps drop as it cures and seats better, and check the mounting screws in a few days.


----------



## RonindeBeatrice

Knock me off the list. Walked into best buy to return tonight. No questions asked despite the *gigantic* "Do not return this to the store" flier inside the box.









When I started investigating an upgrade path for the H50 I found it just didn't make much sense. I was planning a swiftech block for my NB and an additional radiator and probably replacing the one included. I've opted to go with a enzotech block and DB-1 instead.


----------



## Killhouse

R.I.P. RonindeBeatrice.

It's not for everyone


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:

AS5 is kinda an old dog now, not quite the best but still ok; and AS lists its cure time as 200 hours! Anyways, you should def. see those temps drop as it cures and seats better, and check the mounting screws in a few days.
Yah, I knew there was a curing time but didnt know if the temps would drop that much.. considering when I got the h50 about 2 months ago and put the AS5 on it then, the temps were the same.

Anyone know if I should keep the res fill port cap open or closed? Any difference?

Could making the loop too short also cause the temps to increase? Because I measured the tubing I used and it came out to be less than the original tubing put together.


----------



## SpykeZ

I believe shorter tubing will play a long nicer with the lil pump we got.


----------



## cyclometric

This weekend I am going to be adding a res and swapping out the tubing on my H50 and had some questions for those who have gone before me. First of all, here's the stuff I'm putting in:


Here's the loop I'm planning, with the radiator mounted at the rear exhaust hole, the res in the topmost 5.25 bay, and of course the pump/block center:



I've seen it written that the reservoir should go before the pump, i.e.:

Pump > Radiator > CPU Block > T-line/Reservoir > Pump.

But since the Block & the Pump are one in the same for us, I thought it made more sense to do:

Pump/Block > Radiator > Reservoir > Pump/Block

figuring that way, the coolant spends more time cool instead of hot. I mean, I'd rather have a reservoir full of cooled liquid, instead of liquid heated freshly from the CPU. But I don't know that it would make any difference ... or would it? So here are my questions:


Any thoughts of my planned loop?
I don't know if Pentosin contains a biocide. Should I add a couple drops of PT Nuke Cu? If so, why sometimes 1 drop per liter, sometimes 2?
After draining the stock liquid, do I need to flush the system with something i.e. plain distilled water, or a mild detergent followed by rinse?
Should I rinse or wash the tubing prior to using?
Having read tlxxxsracer's recent post re: tubing length, is there an optimal total length? It makes sense to me to try to keep about the same length as it is now, overall, or just a little bit longer, to not stress the pump.
thanks!


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I thought the loop was.. res-rad-h50-res. did i mess my loop up??

im not sure about the loop setup, but by willhemmens guide i did as above
I didnt flush the system out because I put distilled water and antifreeze in it, like corsair had originally.
Yes rinse/wash the tubing, make sure no particles are inside
I figured the shorter the better, to create less head pressure for the pump


----------



## jalyst

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jalyst* 
I'm a little nervous lest everyone in this thread dog-piles me








I know the passionate disdain some users have for CoolIT!*

But is anyone just a little bit curious as to how the new CoolIT sealed loops perform against the H50?
I know the Domino was pretty much a joke, but could they have got it right this time with the Eco & Vantage?

I'm still trying to find some decent sources of comparison, but nothing yet.
Anyone else been looking, have you found anything?

So as to avoid detracting from this thread, I've started a new one:
CooIT Eco/Vantage reviews?

*Be gentle please Ping! LOL










I'm very interested to see these coolers, it seems that these closed loop systems are really hitting the market seriously. I'll check out that thread tonight.

Unfortunately nothing terribly enlightening has been posted in the thread yet.
Some good general remarks/observations have been made, but solid leads towards proper comparative data is still forthcoming.

I personally can't wait much longer so I'll probably get the H50 or one of it's Asetek cousins.
Not a big deal, even if there is an improvement I doubt it'd be huge...


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
I thought the loop was.. res-rad-h50-res. did i mess my loop up??

im not sure about the loop setup, but by willhemmens guide i did as above
I didnt flush the system out because I put distilled water and antifreeze in it, like corsair had originally.
Yes rinse/wash the tubing, make sure no particles are inside
I figured the shorter the better, to create less head pressure for the pump

No, I think you did it the way most people do. I should have added one config to my line about, so that in total it said,

Generally water cooling is done as:
*Pump > Radiator > CPU Block > T-line/Reservoir > Pump.*
Translated to the H50, where pump & block are 1 unit, I think most do:
*Radiator > H50 >* *Reservoir >* *Radiator*
But I thought it made more sense to do:
*Radiator > Reservoir > H50 > Radiator*
because of the extra time as cool liquid versus heated.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Oh okay.
Well i have decided, for myself and help others, to do testing with a variety of setups.. exhaust with res-rad-h50-res. then intake using the same loop setup.
next to exhaust res-h50-rad-res, then intake.
To see which is the coolest. This will be over a period of maybe 2-3months. 2 weeks with each setup, maybe 3.

Can anyone answer if i should have the top res valve on tight, on but loose or off? Wondered if itd let heat escape but the liquid would evaporate faster. im still new, just wanting to know whats best


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Oh okay.
Well i have decided, for myself and help others, to do testing with a variety of setups.. exhaust with res-rad-h50-res. then intake using the same loop setup.
next to exhaust res-h50-rad-res, then intake.
To see which is the coolest. This will be over a period of maybe 2-3months. 2 weeks with each setup, maybe 3.

Can anyone answer if i should have the top res valve on tight, on but loose or off? Wondered if itd let heat escape but the liquid would evaporate faster. im still new, just wanting to know whats best

Cool. I plan on going ahead with it as I said, but it'll be very helpful to have you run those tests. Maybe I will try different flow maps, too, if I find that dealing with the wet part of water cooling isn't that bad.









& yeah, I'd like to know the answer to the top res valve question, too. I remember seeing something about the first few days to keep it loose so air could escape, but I would just be extremely careful not to bump the machine or, g-d forbid, tip it over.


----------



## jalyst

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyclometric* 
This weekend I am going to be adding a res and swapping out the tubing on my H50 and had some questions for those who have gone before me. First of all, here's the stuff I'm putting in:

I've seen it written that the reservoir should go before the pump, i.e.:

Pump > Radiator > CPU Block > T-line/Reservoir > Pump.

But since the Block & the Pump are one in the same for us, I thought it made more sense to do:

Pump/Block > Radiator > Reservoir > Pump/Block

figuring that way, the coolant spends more time cool instead of hot. I mean, I'd rather have a reservoir full of cooled liquid, instead of liquid heated freshly from the CPU. But I don't know that it would make any difference ... or would it? So here are my questions:


Any thoughts of my planned loop?
I don't know if Pentosin contains a biocide. Should I add a couple drops of PT Nuke Cu? If so, why sometimes 1 drop per liter, sometimes 2?
After draining the stock liquid, do I need to flush the system with something i.e. plain distilled water, or a mild detergent followed by rinse?
Should I rinse or wash the tubing prior to using?
Having read tlxxxsracer's recent post re: tubing length, is there an optimal total length? It makes sense to me to try to keep about the same length as it is now, overall, or just a little bit longer, to not stress the pump.
thanks!

Please excuse my ignorance, but if you're going this far why not purchase a custom WC kit or cherry pick every part?
Or do you already own the H50 and are seeing how far you can take things with the same pump?

Cheers


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jalyst* 
Please excuse my ignorance, but if you're going this far why not purchase a custom WC kit or cherry pick every part?
Or do you already own the H50 and are seeing how far you can take things with the same pump?

Cheers

Because in the same spirit of Overclocking, we want to see just how much performance we can get out our modest H50's


----------



## jalyst

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
Because in the same spirit of Overclocking, we want to see just how much performance we can get out our modest H50's









Fair-enough, but depending how far you go, for all intents & purposes you may as well be building a custom kit.
I mean where does one draw the line; keep using the same pump but change everything else?


----------



## jpeppard

I decided to upgrade to an Antec 902 gaming case for improved airflow. I'm going to mount the radiator for my H50 on the roof, sucking the air I pull into my case out the top. My question is, will I have to apply more thermal paste when I re-seat my H50's CPU block?


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jalyst* 
Fair-enough, but depending how far you go, for all intents & purposes you may as well be building a custom kit.
I mean where does one draw the line; keep using the same pump but change everything else?

Eh.. depends on how you look at it. I don't view it as a high-end WC replacement. I actually only spent a grand total of $80 (including H50) on my mod, and it turned out pretty nice









So I think for $80, I got away with a very nice cooling setup, that is very very quiet, and is very decent at cooling.


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
Because in the same spirit of Overclocking, we want to see just how much performance we can get out our modest H50's









Absolutely. It's fun. And this thread is a big part of that, too, we should all thank Killhouse (I always want to say, "KillMouse", but that's wrong, I know...)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jalyst* 
Fair-enough, but depending how far you go, for all intents & purposes you may as well be building a custom kit.
I mean where does one draw the line; keep using the same pump but change everything else?

You're right, too. Playing around with the H50 is how I "dipped my toes into the coolant" coming from cooling strictly with air before. But yeah, I think the logical next upgrade would be replacing the unit for a full custom loop, and I'll have the confidence and some limited experience to do so. You have me wondering, actually, if I shouldn't just sell the unit as it is now, in its stock state, rather than muck it up where someone wouldn't want to buy it.

Though I wonder if anyone has tried adding a secondary pump to the loop, which would make up'g the rad more feasible. . .


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Much better, I think you'll agree. You can just about see the H50 in the background so it's still on topic. I've got some nice fresh air onto my new H50 fan now, temps dropped a bit











Hey killhouse check out these Black acrylic fan grills.


----------



## jalyst

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyclometric* 
You're right, too. Playing around with the H50 is how I "dipped my toes into the coolant" coming from cooling strictly with air before. But yeah, I think the logical next upgrade would be replacing the unit for a full custom loop, and I'll have the confidence and some limited experience to do so. You have me wondering, actually, if I shouldn't just sell the unit as it is now, in its stock state, rather than muck it up where someone wouldn't want to buy it.

Though I wonder if anyone has tried adding a secondary pump to the loop, which would make up'g the rad more feasible. . .

Don't get me wrong...

It's cool to see blokes getting much more out something that was once limited.
It's just that you get to a point where you are basically building an entire custom loop.
So why not start out that way from the beginning?

Of course it makes sense if you already have the H50 to tweak it heavily.
But once you consider replacing pretty much everything and adding extra things.
Then -as you say- you may as well sell it and cherry pick the best WC parts!

Of course where's the modding spirit in that, I guess I'm just a killjoy?!


----------



## jalyst

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
Eh.. depends on how you look at it. I don't view it as a high-end WC replacement. I actually only spent a grand total of $80 (including H50) on my mod, and it turned out pretty nice









So I think for $80, I got away with a very nice cooling setup, that is very very quiet, and is very decent at cooling.

Oh entirely,
I'm referring to those thinking of building a top-end custom loop out of infrastructure that was a H50.

Of course, they're well within their right to do that just for fun!









I'll only a do a few modest changes like you...
I won't expect it to be a substitute for some of the best DIY WC jobs.


----------



## Capwn

Then you have people that dont feel comfortable building a loop right out of the gate. SO they get the H50 and get a little wet. Then lets say they Mod it. Then when they go full loop they already have some basic knowledge and maybe even a few parts to get them started. .


----------



## jalyst

Makes total sense; "gateway drug" for WC!


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jalyst* 
Makes total sense; "gateway drug" for WC!









Annnd bingo was his nammee-o


----------



## arbalest

*Side Note*

I'm working on my writeup/worklog for my H50 mod, but its gonna be a little later than I originally planned. I'm busy with work, and the fiance is leaving for a vacation with her fam, so I'm having to help get ready with all of that :-/

Whats the best way to do my writeup offsite, and upload it? Should I just do everything in Dreamweaver, and cut and paste code?

SOrry if it seems like a dumb question, but I've never really been a big forum guy, so I don't know everything yet!

Thanks ahead of time!


----------



## logan666

i just got myself 2 new coolmaster 120mm 2000rpm fans 4 the push/pull mod + some new thermal paste artic coolin mx3 didnt make fu!k all diff


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *logan666* 
i just got myself 2 new coolmaster 120mm 2000rpm fans 4 the push/pull mod + some new thermal paste artic coolin mx3 didnt make fu!k all diff









Your problem is lying elsewhere then









If you are running exhaust and have good airflow, try adding a few 'internal' fans to make the air more turbulent inside the case.

Also, when comparing, were the ambient temps exactly the same?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyclometric* 
Absolutely. It's fun. And this thread is a big part of that, too, we should all thank Killhouse (I always want to say, "KillMouse", but that's wrong, I know...)

You're right, too. Playing around with the H50 is how I "dipped my toes into the coolant" coming from cooling strictly with air before. But yeah, I think the logical next upgrade would be replacing the unit for a full custom loop, and I'll have the confidence and some limited experience to do so. You have me wondering, actually, if I shouldn't just sell the unit as it is now, in its stock state, rather than muck it up where someone wouldn't want to buy it.

Though I wonder if anyone has tried adding a secondary pump to the loop, which would make up'g the rad more feasible. . .

Killmouse! :swearing: Haha. I like the idea of a second pump, but I'm not sure how that would work, because you'd have to match the pump speed. Now how about putting another H50 pump/block unit and putting it on the graphics card?









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
Hey killhouse check out these Black acrylic fan grills.

Thanks Pings, I've got some modders mesh at home to make my own grills with though actually









Quote:


Originally Posted by *jalyst* 
Makes total sense; "gateway drug" for WC!



















Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyclometric* 
This weekend I am going to be adding a res and swapping out the tubing on my H50 and had some questions for those who have gone before me. First of all, here's the stuff I'm putting in:

This looks awesome







Good luck.


----------



## logan666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
Your problem is lying elsewhere then









If you are running exhaust and have good airflow, try adding a few 'internal' fans to make the air more turbulent inside the case.

Also, when comparing, were the ambient temps exactly the same?

im runing intake i took off 1 of the fans didnt make no diff ,tempp stayed the same so ive left it off


----------



## SpykeZ

mx3 isn't as good as the stuff that comes with the H50, it's shin-etsu


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *logan666* 
im runing intake i took off 1 of the fans didnt make no diff ,tempp stayed the same so ive left it off

sometimes if your system hits ambient room temp, it wont go lower, so make sure u look at system and room temp,thus the room temp showing how low the temps will drop roughly (i managed 6C lower, how i dont know)


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
mx3 isn't as good as the stuff that comes with the H50, it's shin-etsu

your right, but the shin etsu is a little thick that they put on there, if it was thinner, i woulda used it







i put IC7 on it instead


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyclometric* 

*Pump > Radiator > CPU Block > T-line/Reservoir > Pump.*


This is it! that is best configurations and settings.


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
This is it! that is best configurations and settings.

Pump > Radiator > CPU Block > T-line/Reservoir > Pump

Yeah? Unfortunately, though, it doesn't apply to the H50, since the Pump & the Block are contained in a single unit
That's why I'm planning on setting it up:

Pump/Block *→* Radiator → Reservoir → Pump/Block

Unless I hear why it's not a good idea first.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cyclometric*


Pump > Radiator > CPU Block > T-line/Reservoir > Pump

Yeah? Unfortunately, though, it doesn't apply to the H50, since the Pump & the Block are contained in a single unit
That's why I'm planning on setting it up:

Pump/Block *→* Radiator → Reservoir → Pump/Block

Unless I hear why it's not a good idea first.










Ooops I did not pay attetion to read it carefully before post.. would you excuse me for that?









Edit: radiator > PUMP/W-BLOCK unit > Reservoir> radiator which is best configurations and settings.


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
Ooops I did not pay attetion to read it carefully before post.. would you excuse me for that?









Edit: radiator > PUMP/W-BLOCK unit > Reservoir> radiator which is best configurations and settings.

Yeah, I had read that, too, in WC guides, but why? Doesn't the liquid spend more time being hot that way, and heating up the rest of the fluid in the res, fresh off the CPU?


----------



## SpykeZ

well no, radiator is where the water is going to cool down teh most so you want that water to go straight to your water block, then to the resevoir where it can in theory cool down a little bit, then back to the radiator to cool off the most and the cycle continues


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cyclometric*


Yeah, I had read that, too, in WC guides, but why? Doesn't the liquid spend more time being hot that way, and heating up the rest of the fluid in the res, fresh off the CPU?


For best performance, Pump>Res>Rad>Pump.

Water wont cool much in the res but it all helps.

If you get a glass of boiling water and have an ambient of 20'c, the water will cool faster from 100'c down to 80'c than 60'c to 40'c.

Thats the idea.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

can someone answer about if you should leave the top fill valve cap on or off on the res.


----------



## alayoubi

Quote:



If you get a glass of boiling water and have an ambient of 20'c, the water will cool faster from 100'c down to 80'c than 60'c to 40'c.


I think water will cool faster from 80'c to 60'c than from 100'c to 80'c because 80'c is already cooler than 100'c .


----------



## Agaeris

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alayoubi*


I think water will cool faster from 80'c to 60'c than from 100'c to 80'c because 80'c is already cooler than 100'c .










What hes saying is that water will drop from 100 to 80 faster than from 80 to 60 if the whole thing started at 100, I.E. the first 20C takes X time, and the 2nd 20C takes 1._X times,


----------



## Agaeris

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


can someone answer about if you should leave the top fill valve cap on or off on the res.


I cant see any reason to leave it off. If there is air in the system, it will just flow through till it hits the res, and its place will be taken by fluid from the res, so the level will drop, You are not really changing volume at all. The only Thing to consider is that air will change in volume due to heat much faster than water will, so if you do have a ton of air, you could end up pressurizing your system and cracking your res. So I would try to bleed off as much air as possible, and run the system, popping the cap and checking level and pressure intermittantly, but not necessarily run it full time like that.


----------



## alayoubi

I am still in an intake setup, and have a cooler master fan with the stock corsair fan ..

today i have done a trial with the CM fan 2000RPM and an old ACE SAN Fan 38mm thick 2600RPM Japanies made , Both spining at full speed (u can imagine how r that very noisy)

And after 1 hour of loading by Prime95 , Ambient was 17'c and Temp of cores between 40-48' c & difference is only -2' c , so guys dont waste yr money & time for nothing by buying a powerfull and noisy fans .

I'll try later the exhoust setup ..


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:

I cant see any reason to leave it off. If there is air in the system, it will just flow through till it hits the res, and its place will be taken by fluid from the res, so the level will drop, You are not really changing volume at all. The only Thing to consider is that air will change in volume due to heat much faster than water will, so if you do have a ton of air, you could end up pressurizing your system and cracking your res. So I would try to bleed off as much air as possible, and run the system, popping the cap and checking level and pressure intermittantly, but not necessarily run it full time like that.
Okay thanks. Ill take it off and let it bleed for a day or two.


----------



## Agaeris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alayoubi* 
I am still in an intake setup, and have a cooler master fan with the stock corsair fan ..

today i have done a trial with the CM fan 2000RPM and an old ACE SAN Fan 38mm thick 2600RPM Japanies made , Both spining at full speed (u can imagine how r that very noisy)

And after 1 hour of loading by Prime95 , Ambient was 17'c and Temp of cores between 40-48' c & difference is only -2' c , so guys dont waste yr money & time for nothing .

I'll try later the exhoust setup ..

Big thing to consider isnt only how much airflow is going through the rad, but how much of that is exiting the system. This is an entirely new level of science, and gets too complicated to actually test and measure, but the gist of it is the difference in airflow through the rad in open air vs mounted in your case. One example you are pressurizing your case blowing in, the other you are drawing out. I think this will change depending on each persons setup w/ intake and exhaust fans and how they are setup and located, airflow through the case, venting in the case, etc. Also the static pressure on the fan, which you wont see in just straight CFM, but you will see as a drop in CFM pre-radiator compared to post-radiator. Just a thought. I will be testing probably over a dozen setups this weekend w/ fans and shrouds and intake/exhaust. Will have a better picture then, but again, this applies most directly to someone with a similar setup to mine, and less applicable to others.


----------



## NerfHurder

I was thinking and tell me if im dreaming, with all this talk about taking the cover off the pump for reducing pump temperatures, could you not cut out the top portion of the cover and insert a mini cooling fan perhaps off an older graphics card and mount it on the top...in theory you would be running a similar setup on a stock heatsink for also to incorperate the liquid cooling of the h50. Not to mention that little extra cooling before it enters the block with the int./ex. lines right there.


----------



## Killhouse

I'm beginning to doubt the idea about cooling the pump block, but that would be one way of approaching cooling the pump if it's decided that cooling the block is important.

I'm thinking of taking the top off and replacing it with modders mesh and sound dampening foam, it wont help sounds but it should silence it completely.


----------



## NerfHurder

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I'm beginning to doubt the idea about cooling the pump block, but that would be one way of approaching cooling the pump if it's decided that cooling the block is important.

Saying that was taking into consideration that most people in this forum who mod the H50 is to lower the running temp. Whats to say being that there are no test to prove this theory, this may drop the cpu temp maybe by 1 or 2 degrees by implimenting a pull of air from the block essentially pre cooling it, of course not by much,before it hits the radiator. I will try out some test to see if this argument and thought is even worthy and will keep posted on updates...may not be soon, im a busy man.


----------



## PCSarge

agae is right, my temps dropped by around 6-8C after i found the right fans/shroud set up, it will take time, duely noted, its not cfm or speed that matters, its static pressure on the rad with air that matters







so no, sometimes the fastest fan is not the answer to all problems

oh , an agaeris, when you get the numbers on the test in let me know, id like to know which fans work and consideering your in a similar case (you being in an HAF 922, and me in a HAF 932) , it may work for me aswell


----------



## Killhouse

Oh yeah, lower temps are great. But I have low expectations for projects like this, 2C is quite a large drop in temperature. Nonetheless, I'm keen to see what will happen!


----------



## PCSarge

yeah i know killhouse, people thing 2C is nothing, but a hot piece of metal dropping 2C is something lol


----------



## RonindeBeatrice

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
R.I.P. RonindeBeatrice.

It's not for everyone









Dammit, I went ahead and picked up a Asetek 240mm unit off ebay...










I guess I'm going to have to report on how that goes.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RonindeBeatrice* 
Dammit, I went ahead and picked up a Asetek 240mm unit off ebay...










I guess I'm going to have to report on how that goes.









Oh yes you are, yes yes yes you are







I really want to see how this performs!


----------



## PCSarge

hmmm....i'm still trying to find the perfect fan balance...quiet and high static pressure...lol


----------



## Killhouse

Well I could strongly suggest the Feser 122 if you've got the space


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Well I could strongly suggest the Feser 122 if you've got the space









i have space, but i also, have a budget limit lmao...and trust me in CDN dollars, everything looks expensive

why dont you build and mail me an acrylic duplicate of your case (possibly in another color) lol

4 front intake fans = win lol

oh and jk, i could mount 4 side panel intakes on my 932 xD


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
i have space, but i also, have a budget limit lmao...and trust me in CDN dollars, everything looks expensive

Which part of Canada are you from? I spent a year in Alberta









CDN dollars are doing quite well vs the pound, and I picked mine up for Â£23. It's worth investigating but I agree that they're not cheap fans.

I'm going to try a straight multi overclock on my 965 tomorrow night and see how far I get at max fanspeed.


----------



## PCSarge

lol i'm in ontario right next to the fake french people (quebec)

and let me know how that goes... i dont think feser sells here... id probably hafta order it from there and have it shipped to me lol mostly cooler master and a cheapass parts company called ultra technologies make the stuff here concerning cooling,you get the odd thermaltake product also
feser on the other hand, i've never seen

EDIT: oopsies i lied, but look how much a noctua costs :http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...5267&CatId=494
thermaltake is cheaper, but alot more noisy: http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...9150&CatId=494


----------



## RonindeBeatrice

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Oh yes you are, yes yes yes you are







I really want to see how this performs!

The plan is...

Install the Asetek compare CPU/NB* temps with Noctua U12P results
Install EK Asus NB/SB 1 Block and additional rad & compare with both previous results
This is all in preparation of me moving the rig out of the WiNDy and reinstalling into the Sugo 3 ( all for no good reason)

*the NB on the Rampage II Gene is passive, and has been replaced with a Zalman radial NB heatsink. The lost airflow, previously provided by the U12P, is expected to _increase_ the NB temps when the Asetek unit goes on.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
lol i'm in ontario right next to the fake french people (quebec)

You look Canadian.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RonindeBeatrice* 
You look Canadian.

i may be canadian now, but i was born in Hamburg, Germany

*sings* zinnerisch von liebe-ferbisch von ninety ninescish luftbaloons, hast du era haurascht kupft








my spelling may suck after 12 yrs, but i still know german


----------



## Killhouse

I just finished installing the Trad-2 into my case. It's doing a great job of keeping my graphics card cool. I used the corsair fan from the H50 on it for now, though I will be replacing it with 2 92mm fractal design fans.

Now everything in my case is virtually silent I've discovered that the pump is actually quite loud. It makes a sort of buzzing noise that I had never noticed before. One day soon, probably not until the Easter holidays - but soon. I'm going to try removing the covering on the pump and building my own covering, which will include sound-dampening foam to try and get that pump completely quiet.

Let me know what you think. The only other noise in my case is the sound of air moving and the hard drives so it would be great if I could silence the H50


----------



## RonindeBeatrice

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
i may be canadian now, but i was born in Hamburg, Germany

Yeah, I can tell; you look German.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RonindeBeatrice* 
Yeah, I can tell; you look German.

i hate liars...and your horrible at it.


----------



## jpeppard

Can anyone tell me if i'll need more thermal paste if i remove and re seat my H50?

The paste that came with it hasn't had nearly enough time to even begin curing, maybe 2 hours max running time idling the whole way.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jpeppard* 
Can anyone tell me if i'll need more thermal paste if i remove and re seat my H50?

The paste that came with it hasn't had nearly enough time to even begin curing, maybe 2 hours max running time idling the whole way.

Yes and no.

Personally, I always removed used paste. Given its only been 2 hours, its should be okay to use but after a day or so,,, I wouldnt.

If memory serves, there is a lot of pre-applied TIM to start with. Just make sure it hasnt gone too solid (or powdery) and you can spread it easily. Make sure there are no obvious bubbles or gaps in the TIM coverage.

The stock TIM is Shin Estu - it doesnt have a cure time. Its good to go as soon as its applied.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
*sings* zinnerisch von liebe-ferbisch von ninety ninescish luftbaloons, hast du era haurascht kupft

I still have a soft spot for that song


----------



## Maximous

What would be the best liquid to use in water cooled loop?


----------



## Killhouse

A mixture of 1 part antifreeze and 4 parts distilled water I think is what you want. Scroll back a few pages or use the search feature and you'll find responses from the people that modded their H50s.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 

I still have a soft spot for that song









and i can still sing it from memory sethy







to think i was a little kid when it came out









the american translation failed, it turned luftbaloons into red baloons, which is wrong, luftbaloon means "floating baloon"


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
and i can still sing it from memory sethy







to think i was a little kid when it came out









the american translation failed, it turned luftbaloons into red baloons, which is wrong, luftbaloon means "floating baloon"









yep - preferred the german version too. Sorta like Falco's "Das Commissar". The extent of my german is "Ja! Ja! Thats es!"


----------



## PCSarge

well, ill post the cheesy fans i'm using (it says 2100rpm but they on run max of 1800) but they do have static pressure, high or low i dont know thats for you to answer for me, they dont make too much noise since i shrouded the push fan

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...8779&CatId=494


----------



## Killhouse

2.98mm is a lot for a 25mm fan, but I would be doubting the truth behind that statistic


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
2.98mm is a lot for a 25mm fan, but I would be doubting the truth behind that statistic









i dont doubt the statistic killhouse, even without a pull fan, alot of air was flowing thru the bottom of my rad....it almost scared me at first lol (think, its shrouded, treat it as a 50mm fan xD)


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
i dont doubt the statistic killhouse, even without a pull fan, alot of air was flowing thru the bottom of my rad....it almost scared me at first lol (think, its shrouded, treat it as a 50mm fan xD)

I suppose it is rated at 2100RPM, so it should be pretty good.

Sidenote - I've turned my feser right down so I can't hear it at all, controlled by speedfan. After adding the Trad-2 my system has finally become quiet enough to sleep while folding







Balanced at 48C at the slowest speed I can run the Feser at. Very happy!


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


I suppose it is rated at 2100RPM, so it should be pretty good.

Sidenote - I've turned my feser right down so I can't hear it at all, controlled by speedfan. After adding the Trad-2 my system has finally become quiet enough to sleep while folding







Balanced at 48C at the slowest speed I can run the Feser at. Very happy!










my god mail me one of those fans, i hafta keep mine aleast at 1400rpm to hold idle temps, around 1800 to hold load....and they make noise...still lol


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


my god mail me one of those fans, i hafta keep mine aleast at 1400rpm to hold idle temps, around 1800 to hold load....and they make noise...still lol


I can keep it as low as ~600 RPM to hold load temps at 48C







If I cranked it up to 1800 RPM my temps drop to 40C within 45 seconds.

It's fun when my friends are here, I tell them to put their hand behind the radiator then I crank it up to 90 CFM


----------



## PCSarge

when i said mail one i was serious killhouse... thier not sold in canada...lol and i'm not waiting 8 weeks shipping time  lol


----------



## Killhouse

I bought mine from Specialtech.co.uk - great company and they ship to Europe and all other countries according to their FAQ.

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/...9&cat=0&page=1

Way easier than going through me


----------



## PCSarge

lol...its 2.5cdn dollars to the pound....at least on the current transfer rates at the bank here...yay for like 70 dollar fan i cant buy atm *.*


----------



## CaptnBB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


lol...its 2.5cdn dollars to the pound....at least on the current transfer rates at the bank here...yay for like 70 dollar fan i cant buy atm *.*


Is this the fan?









http://www.directcanada.com/products...re=Feser%20One


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


lol...its 2.5cdn dollars to the pound....at least on the current transfer rates at the bank here...yay for like 70 dollar fan i cant buy atm *.*


Ouch







times have changed, when the pound was crashing I moved back from Canada, the rate was ~1.8 cdn/pound. It was lovely









Wasnt cheap over here either though, Â£25 is an awful lot for a fan.


----------



## RonindeBeatrice

Killhouse, you tried undervolting the pump yet?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RonindeBeatrice* 
Killhouse, you tried undervolting the pump yet?

Not yet, Speedfan wont let me control it right now. I'll try and remember to move the cable to another controllable port when I reboot.

EDIT: goodnight


----------



## CaptnBB

Time to add a few more pics to the post of what I have modded so far.

1. Here is the liquid from the stock H50. 
Attachment 139994

2. Getting ready to leak test.
Attachment 139996

3. Testing the placement of the res.
Attachment 139997

4. Leak testing and reading the paper at the same time.








Attachment 139995

5. If you look closely at the inside of the cover. You can see where I removed some of the plastic so it could fit over the cable ties and sit flush with the base.
Attachment 139998


----------



## CaptnBB

Here's another few mods I did and Final pics. I have not figured out what I'm doing with the rad fans yet. These are the Corsair fan on the back and an Antec Tricool Red fan as a tie over right now. It's almost impossible to see in these pictures but i got a Bitspower temperature sensor and put it in the Res just so I can see what the water temp int the Res is.

1. I had to make a neat spot for the fan cables to plug into the mainboard on the inside. So I broke out the Dremel and cut the rear panel plug.
Attachment 140001

2. This ones a pic of the front of the side panel. I found when putting the side back on with all the wiring that the panel was being pushed away from the main case about 1/16". I bent the inside to make the fit better and now its perfectly flat on the side.
Attachment 140005

3. This one's me leak testing while inside the case.
Attachment 140002

4. Everything all mounted up. Filled with distilled water and Antifreeze. I know it's green but it was free. I'll be changing the color not too far in the future, I really don't like the color.
Attachment 140003

5. The finished product so far.







I'm happy with the outcome.
Attachment 140004


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CaptnBB*


more pics soon


Are asking for pics or posting them? Coz I cant see any.

Addit... Oh! there they are ^^^^









Post Addit...

Quote:



3. This one's me leak testing while inside the case.


Wait! what??? INSIDE the case... ohhh you are very brave.


----------



## CaptnBB

I'm working on them......


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


lol...its 2.5cdn dollars to the pound....at least on the current transfer rates at the bank here...yay for like 70 dollar fan i cant buy atm *.*


Try the S-flex.....you won't be disappointed. Running at 1600 rpm they make almost no noise and put out more airflow than the ultra kaze 3000 rpm dialed down to 7 volts and put out more static pressure than the ultra kaze 2000 rpm dialed down to 7 volts (i.e. to a tolerable noise level)......these in push/pull keep my 965 C3 (3.8Ghz) at 27-28 Idle and 44C load.


----------



## CaptnBB

I'll add a few more pictures tomorrow.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CaptnBB*


I'll add a few more pictures tomorrow.


Looks good. Are you concerned at all about the extra load on the little H50 pump with all that extra tubing and resevoir pressure?


----------



## CaptnBB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Looks good. Are you concerned at all about the extra load on the little H50 pump with all that extra tubing and resevoir pressure?










Not really. The pump is pushing water faster then I thought. There's not really a whole lot more restriction in my loop..... yet.


----------



## CaptnBB

Quote:



Post Addit...

Wait! what??? INSIDE the case... ohhh you are very brave.


I did a 3hour leak test outside the case. The mover everything inside and re leak tested again drawing power from an external PSU. I ran that test for 8hrs overnight. Then I Powered on the computer. I was pretty thorough.


----------



## hollywood406

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CaptnBB*


I'm working on them......










Nice job on the modding! I agree that some Peak (blue) anti-freeze would look TONS better! Actually, I didn't know that you could use that







. The PC Pure stuff works great and it was only $12 for a quart that I used maybe 1/2 a pint in mine


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CaptnBB*


I did a 3hour leak test outside the case. The mover everything inside and re leak tested again drawing power from an external PSU. I ran that test for 8hrs overnight. Then I Powered on the computer. I was pretty thorough.


I had to ask









nice set up!


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Try the S-flex.....you won't be disappointed. Running at 1600 rpm they make almost no noise and put out more airflow than the ultra kaze 3000 rpm dialed down to 7 volts and put out more static pressure than the ultra kaze 2000 rpm dialed down to 7 volts (i.e. to a tolerable noise level)......these in push/pull keep my 965 C3 (3.8Ghz) at 27-28 Idle and 44C load.










would this suffice?
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...5267&CatId=802


----------



## CaptnBB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CaptnBB* 
Is this the fan?









http://www.directcanada.com/products...re=Feser%20One

requoted


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CaptnBB* 
requoted

i am not buying a feser if i can walk into my local tiger direct and buy that noctua rather than wait 6 weeks lol


----------



## CaptnBB

canadadirect took me 4 days for an order from placed to in hands. BC to NS. That's not bad. Just trying to help you get what you mentioned. Sorry for trying to help.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
would this suffice?
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...5267&CatId=802

Just remind me what you are going to use this fan for again?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Just remind me what you are going to use this fan for again?

was intending to buy 2, for push/pull replacements on my rad, the fans i have are well .... too noisy


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I just finished editing and putting together the tutorial video... Its encoding it as we speak. It should be up by tomorrow, Ill post again when its posted with a link. Hope that youtube can take one full video, not in parts.
Captn: That tubing is mighty long... Sure the water may look like its flowing fine, but the pump is having to work extra hard to move it through the whole loop.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
was intending to buy 2, for push/pull replacements on my rad, the fans i have are well .... too noisy

Ahh... These fans are mainly used as low impedance case fans.

See here:

Quote:

http://www.overclockersonline.net/in...um=3051&pnum=5
But then again, so are CM R4s









I cant see an issue. Its a nice trade off between noise and function. They are smidge pricey. Im damn sure i wouldnt be paying that much for a fan.
Have you considered the cooler master R4s?
or
A fan controller?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Ahh... These fans are mainly used as low impedance case fans.

See here:

But then again, so are CM R4s









I cant see an issue. Its a nice trade off between noise and function. They are smidge pricey. Im damn sure i wouldnt be paying that much for a fan. Have you considered the cooler master R4s?

i had R4's... i actually had them running full speed a week and they burnt out... didnt bother RMAing, was a dummy to pc stuff at that point, and didnt think theyd be replaced, now i regret it and think i shoulda done it









have a fan controller, but it has no mid speed, its either high or low, what do ya get for 12 bucks these days, answer is a cheap fan controller with glowy blue lights







lol


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
was intending to buy 2, for push/pull replacements on my rad, the fans i have are well .... too noisy

The S-Flex have better static pressure than the Noctuas. They will work better on your H50. Link is here:

http://ncix.com/products/index.php?s...facture=Scythe

Check out this comparison:

http://www.****************/reviews/...e_120mm_fans/5


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
i had R4's... i actually had them running full speed a week and they burnt out... didnt bother RMAing, was a dummy to pc stuff at that point, and didnt think theyd be replaced, now i regret it and think i shoulda done it









Oh well... we learn by doing









Im running all R4 in both case and Push/pull... they are quiet.

I amended my post to ask if you would consider a fan controller to tame the noise. If your going to speed that much money on 2 fans, then it is a viable option - okay just read your addit.

Im running a this and is does the job well.

As Garanthor suggested, the The S-Flex also look good.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


I just finished editing and putting together the tutorial video... Its encoding it as we speak. It should be up by tomorrow, Ill post again when its posted with a link. Hope that youtube can take one full video, not in parts. 
Captn: That tubing is mighty long... Sure the water may look like its flowing fine, but the pump is having to work extra hard to move it through the whole loop.


That was my exact concern. Over time I would be worried about overheating and early failure....more tubing equals more resistance.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-065-_-Product
How much static pressure would this have?


----------



## Garanthor

Hmmm my last link on the s-flex didn't seem to work. Here it is again:

http://www.****************/reviews/...e_120mm_fans/5

http://www.****************/reviews/...e_120mm_fans/5


----------



## Garanthor

Odd.....well I'll spell it out then:

****************

Then go to reviews/cases_cooling/scythe_ultra_kaze_120mm_fans/5


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


That was my exact concern. Over time I would be worried about overheating and early failure....more tubing equals more resistance.










You dont want extra long tubes... especially with that elevation change like you have. The pump will have to fight against gravity, plus the extra length in tubing and the res.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-065-_-Product
How much static pressure would this have?


A bit too loud for me, I prefer the 1600 rpm version. For some reason I can spell the name of the web site....hmmmm perhaps if I try this:

"Overclock" then add "3d" then ".net"


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


A bit too loud for me, I prefer the 1600 rpm version. For some reason I can spell the name of the web site....hmmmm perhaps if I try this:

"Overclock" then add "3d" then ".net"










I believe that is one of OCN's competitors. xD


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


You dont want extra long tubes... especially with that elevation change like you have. The pump will have to fight against gravity, plus the extra length in tubing and the res.


Totally agree.







I think one of the reasons the Asetek 240mm version of the H50 does not do as well as one would think is that the pump is being overtaxed (i.e. the benefit from the increased surface area is being compromised by a reduced flow rate).


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Totally agree.







I think one of the reasons the Asetek 240mm version of the H50 does not do as well as one would think is that the pump is being overtaxed (i.e. the benefit from the increased surface area is being compromised by a reduced flow rate).


you could attempt to add a pump to the loop.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:

Totally agree. I think one of the reasons the Asetek 240mm version of the H50 does not do as well as one would think is that the pump is being overtaxed (i.e. the benefit from the increased surface area is being compromised by a reduced flow rate).
True.. How long will that pump last, since sexybastard's pump almost died using a 240rad.

Quote:

you could attempt to add a pump to the loop.
Yes, but at that point then we might as well get into a true WC loop. we dont want to do that just yet. LOL


----------



## PCPaladin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCPaladin* 
So who is going to be the first modder to overvolt their pump! LOL



















BTW Killhouse-
Since the question of stock TIM comes up almost every day, maybe you could add something to the FAQ on page 1. Not that anyone reads those. Instructions are for losers.

"GUI's are for wimps. A real man hacks away at a command prompt all night."


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
Odd.....well I'll spell it out then:

****************

Then go to reviews/cases_cooling/scythe_ultra_kaze_120mm_fans/5











....need to explain WHERE this catagory is . . . .







........









mr. Charles .









.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
True.. How long will that pump last, since sexybastard's pump almost died using a 240rad.

Yes, but at that point then we might as well get into a true WC loop. we dont want to do that just yet. LOL

Nah, you could add a cheap, low noise pump just to add to the other pump's flow. Besides, as I see it, the H50 is a transition into WCing.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:

Nah, you could add a cheap, low noise pump just to add to the other pump's flow. Besides, as I see it, the H50 is a transition into WCing.
Right, but you have to make sure that the two pumps have the same flow rate.
I think the same way, using this as experience for a future build.


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Nah, you could add a cheap, low noise pump just to add to the other pump's flow. Besides, as I see it, the H50 is a transition into WCing.

Well for the most part. I've had high end WCing. But I got tired of maintenance and expense. When I upgrade to the 6 core AMD, when it comes out, I'll probably go with the dual rad version of the H50. But for the foreseeable future, I'm done with full blown set ups.


----------



## mattlef

hey guys, add me to the list of owners.
Big mod planned as well, including the H50....







soon









Some older glamour shots back when I was using the 550BE

























Currently with the i5 750:


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mattlef* 
hey guys, add me to the list of owners.
Big mod planned as well, including the H50....







soon









Some older glamour shots back when I was using the 550BE

























Currently with the i5 750:









Do you use your 550BE anymore?


----------



## mattlef

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Do you use your 550BE anymore?

Nope, I was doing a review on it and sold it after :S

@PCSarge - The noctua are great fans for static pressure, but not the greatest on the eyes.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mattlef* 
Nope, I was doing a review on it and sold it after :S

@PCSarge - The noctua are great fans for static pressure, but not the greatest on the eyes.

Only the P12 variant has good static pressure as recommended by Noctua.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=4540
Is this 240mm as good as it says or worth the price? What radiators do any of you recommend for the price/maybe has a built in res?


----------



## Agaeris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=4540
Is this 240mm as good as it says or worth the price? What radiators do any of you recommend for the price/maybe has a built in res?

The Feser XChanger tested better


----------



## Agaeris

OK, as promised, I dove into some fan testing today, the first part of more to come.

Step 1, brainstorm how to quantify fan performance quickly
Step 2, collect materials
Step 3, Build It!

So Im thinkin, how to measure not air speed, but actual air flow? Fill an identical amount of space with different fans, so here goes:










Test fitting w/ fan from Titan Fenrir cooler (it died on me, good thing to as it sent me down the H50 path!)









Backside









High tech volumetric measurement device









Before taping









PWS jumpered (green to any black)









Musta been runnin out the door for lunch, this one got blurry:









Some brand new guinea pigs









Results next...


----------



## Agaeris

I used two methods of testing, seeing as how just flipping the switch would mean the fan wouldn't be at full speed for the entire run. So method 1 was just turn er on and time it. Method 2 was to keep it flat until fan was full speed, then flip it up and time. Each test done 5 times and averaged.

Titan Fenrir:
Test #1 avg: 3.19s
Test #2 avg: 2.29s

Corsair H50
Test #1 avg: 4.22s
Test #2 avg: 3.52s

Cooler Master R4 Red
Test #1 avg: 3.92s
Test #2 avg: 2.92s

I also had a stock exhaust fan from my HAF 922, but that thing was just embarrassing so I didn't complete the test.

I have several more types of fans coming in soon, as well as shrouds. I plan to test all the fans both free air and in front of the H50 radiator to measure pressure drop/efficiency. Gotta wait for some more goodies to come before I pull it apart tho


----------



## Agaeris

Then I tested p/p setups mounted in-case for a real world translation:

Idle temp/Prime95 TCase temp in C

Corsair->Rad->Stock CM exhaust 35/59
R4->Rad->Stock CM exhaust 34/58
Corsair->Rad->R4 exhaust 33/57
R4->Rad->R4 exhaust 32/56

Also measured cooldown times, and they pretty much line up same, 1-2C faster for each step.

Oh, and tried an intake setup as well, def. no go in my case, 8C rise!

Oh, some pics too:


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Agaeris* 
The Feser XChanger tested better

It's like 50 dollars more though!


----------



## Agaeris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
It's like 50 dollars more though!

Yes it is! if your looking for value/performance middleground, the GT is a pretty good unit. The feser is top of the line, but you pay for it.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

So r4s 90cfm or scythe slipstream, or scythe s-flex, or scythe ultra-kaze?


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Agaeris* 
Yes it is! if your looking for value/performance middleground, the GT is a pretty good unit. The feser is top of the line, but you pay for it.

How many degrees lower would you estimate? If it doesn't lower more than 4 degrees on load, I would buy the GT.


----------



## Agaeris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
How many degrees lower would you estimate? If it doesn't lower more than 4 degrees on load, I would buy the GT.

http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2008...r-shootout-1/4


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
It's like 50 dollars more though!

This one looks good
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27124
Review
http://martinsliquidlab.i4memory.com...or-Review.html


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
This one looks good
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27124
Review
http://martinsliquidlab.i4memory.com...or-Review.html

Personally, just from the look and price, it seemed kind of cheap. Would it do better than the black ice? I know it wouldn't do better than the feser.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

What do you guys think about staying with a 120 rad, like
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=3984
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=3893
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=4536

Just curious if theres a benefit in maybe just upgrading the rad to a different 120?


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
What do you guys think about staying with a 120 rad, like
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=3984
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=3893
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=4536

Just curious if theres a benefit in maybe just upgrading the rad to a different 120?

If you have room, the 240mm version gives a huge performance increase and is only 10 dollars more.


----------



## Jeffro422

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
So r4s 90cfm or scythe slipstream, or scythe s-flex, or scythe ultra-kaze?

Scythe Ultra Kaze have the highest static pressure of all the fans listed. At 7v they are pretty quite. I would not put that at 12v because 2 of them sound like a dust buster or louder maybe.

Here is mine:










Just found this review, funny in the conclusion he says at 12v they sound like a small vacuum cleaner
http://tinyurl.com/y9smy75


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jeffro422* 
Scythe Ultra Kaze have the highest static pressure of all the fans listed. At 7v they are pretty quite. I would not put that at 12v because 2 of them sound like a dust buster or louder maybe.

Here is mine:










Just found this review, funny in the conclusion he says at 12v they sound like a small vacuum cleaner
http://www.****************/reviews/...e_120mm_fans/6

If you plug em directly into the mobo, is 7v the amount it uses or does it use 12v unless you have a resistor?


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:

If you have room, the 240mm version gives a huge performance increase and is only 10 dollars more.
any 240 rad will have a performance increase, the problem is... the pump cant handle it.

I currently have a scythe ultra kaze, its much louder than i expected... Im able to plug it into my mobo, but trying to figure out how to turn down the rpm. could i plug it into the cpufan pin (where the h50 pump plugs into)? I have it plugged into a fan pin 1, but cant lower the rpm with speedfan. Suggestions other than a fan controller..


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
any 240 rad will have a performance increase, the problem is... the pump cant handle it.

I bet you can manage if the rad is very high flow.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:

I bet you can manage if the rad is very high flow
sexybastard did a 240rad mod, and his died within a week (I think it was that time frame)


----------



## Jeffro422

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
If you plug em directly into the mobo, is 7v the amount it uses or does it use 12v unless you have a resistor?

Some motherboards have the option in the bios to control the voltage to the fan, thus controlling rpm. Otherwise pick up a cheap fan controller. I'm using a four fan controller I bought like 6 years ago. Check your bios though for the option.

http://martinsliquidlab.i4memory.com/FanTesting.html


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
sexybastard did a 240rad mod, and his died within a week (I think it was that time frame)

Did you get the update? He got it working again. It randomly started working.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Yah, i know it started working again.. but he doesnt use that rad anymore


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Yah, i know it started working again.. but he doesnt use that rad anymore

Well, I guess then it depends on if you want to put in another pump in the loop to help out the h50's (if it can't handle it, otherwise I would just use the h50s) or not.


----------



## Agaeris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Did you get the update? He got it working again. It randomly started working.

It really sounded like there was air trapped inside or liquid on some electronics or something, not an issue w/ too big a rad.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Nevermind, fixed the issue. Speedfan was showing the rpm of the ultra kaze as fan1, but for some reason fan3 controls the kaze.


----------



## denied

Is there any place on the web where i can order screws for H50 (any direct link)? I appreciate any help!!!


----------



## Capwn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *denied*


Is there any place on the web where i can order screws for H50 (any direct link)? I appreciate any help!!!











I'm looking man. I know the size your looking for is 6-32 x 1 1/4" but I cant find any place online that sells them let alone ships to Croatia . Do you have any hardware stores close? If all else fails maybe get a kind OCN'er to buy some and send em to you in the mail









I could probably do it if it comes down to it. Drop me a PM if you fail to find them anywhere.

EDIT. I found a place and I'm semi sure they ship outside the United States. NOTE. there are many sizes . If you order from this site make sure to select the correct length of 1 1/4 inch. 
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...pid=55707&BASE


----------



## PCPaladin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Capwn*


I'm looking man. I know the size your looking for is 6-32 x 1 1/4" but I cant find any place online that sells them let alone ships to Croatia .


I got some in 2.5 and 3 inch lengths from sidewinder computers. Shipping was reasonable. I saw someone post that a "toggle kit" at the hardware store had the right size all-thread (no heads) and used nuts to hold it on. Also page one of this thread has some hardware links.
http://www.overclock.net/8104647-post1493.html


----------



## denied

Thank you guys so much!! You can't find it here in stores because we use metric standard and nobody can make it....
I'll send mail to sidewindercomputers.com to see if they have it and if they can ship it. It doesn't matter if they are little longer (it's no problem to make it shorter)...

I couldn't find 1.25 on their site, but basicly this is right screw (only little bit longer)?

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ststma15in6t.html


----------



## PCPaladin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *denied*


Thank you guys so much!! You can't find it here in stores because we use metric standard and nobody can make it....
...
I couldn't find 1.25 on their site, but basicly this is right screw (only little bit longer)?


Hey you're welcome. But don't forget you will want to add a shroud. That's going to add an inch or so.


----------



## denied

Is this a shroud that i can put it? And how much longer screws do I need then - i need to be sure?

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/fetfcxtrash1.html

Do i need shrouds on both ends? I'm n00bie in this watercooling stuff


----------



## PCPaladin

Quote:



Do i need shrouds on both ends? I'm n00bie in this watercooling stuff










Oooh, that's a top end shroud. Lot's of folk just cut up a cheap/broke fan to use as shroud. The general view is a push shroud is the best help for airflow. A pull shroud is better at reducing noise than improving temps. It all depends on how much room you have in your case. If I remember from previous posts, about 35mm on push gives the best performance increase. There is a shroud test link on the first page of this thread.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...0-updated.html

*Edit*: 2.5 inch screws works for me on pull side with a fan guard, washer, 25mm deep fan and shroud, antivibration silicone grommet, case, radiator. I have no room for a shroud on the push side and use the stock 1.25 inch screws. The Corsair kit should include 4 of these. If you use a 38 mm deep shroud you will need longer. I'd get 3 inch and cut it down to size.


----------



## denied

Can you tell me how long screw do i need - i'm not very good with inches (of course better to be little bit longer than accidentaly shorter)


----------



## alayoubi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Not yet, Speedfan wont let me control it right now. I'll try and remember to move the cable to another controllable port when I reboot.
EDIT: goodnight









I think its supposed to have full power from the fan port.

Regarding the fan headers that controlled ,why Mobo manufacturers doesn't make all fan ports controlled so we can control 'em and not buy fan controller ?


----------



## Greasy Dave

Hi,

I'm a noob to the threads and the website. So greetings all. Looking for some advice. I'm building a new pc, specs will be:

i7 920
X58A UD3R
corsair HX 750
HD 5850 (to be crossfired in the future)
and I'm seriously thinking about using an H50 to cool.

I'll be overclocking but nothing extreme. Probaby somewhere about 3.6 Mhz, which is where I've read there's a sweet spot between power consumption and processing power.

Right now I'm trying to decide on a case. And that's where I'd like advice.

Due to my budget and the lack of availability of certain brands where I'm based I'm choosing between the HAF 922, the Storm Scout or the CM 690 II advanced. or the thermaltake Element G.

I'd been seriously thinking about the HAF because above all I'd like a quiet system and I'd mount the radiator and fan on the back fan placement. I'd also been intending to get the one with the closed side panel (to reduce dust and noise) - but that panel won't allow side fan mounting. Which means I'd be limited to only the two 20 mm intake and outake fans, plus the back fan for the H50, plus an optional 120 mm intake on the base of the case. Is that goign to be enough?

Would you reccomend one of the other cases over the HAF. The CM 690 II seems erally nice, very good price and alot of fan options...allegedly it's quite quiet too.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CaptnBB*


Here's another few mods I did and Final pics. I have not figured out what I'm doing with the rad fans yet. These are the Corsair fan on the back and an Antec Tricool Red fan as a tie over right now. It's almost impossible to see in these pictures but i got a Bitspower temperature sensor and put it in the Res just so I can see what the water temp int the Res is.

1. I had to make a neat spot for the fan cables to plug into the mainboard on the inside. So I broke out the Dremel and cut the rear panel plug.


2. This ones a pic of the front of the side panel. I found when putting the side back on with all the wiring that the panel was being pushed away from the main case about 1/16". I bent the inside to make the fit better and now its perfectly flat on the side.


3. This one's me leak testing while inside the case.


4. Everything all mounted up. Filled with distilled water and Antifreeze. I know it's green but it was free. I'll be changing the color not too far in the future, I really don't like the color.


5. The finished product so far.







I'm happy with the outcome.



I certainly like how you modded H50 & set up there..







1+REP


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hollywood406*


Nice job on the modding! I agree that some Peak (blue) anti-freeze would look TONS better! Actually, I didn't know that you could use that








. The PC Pure stuff works great and it was only $12 for a quart that I used maybe 1/2 a pint in mine


Hollywood, thats awesome and nice set up with Modded H50! 1+REP..


----------



## purduepilot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


It's fun when my friends are here, I tell them to put their hand behind the radiator then I crank it up to 90 CFM










Oh, the parties you must have at your place...


----------



## Volvo

Hey guys, needa pop a question.
Can I run the H50 pump off a direct 12V supply all day?
Corsair recommends for it to be run at full speed right?


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Agaeris* 
It really sounded like there was air trapped inside or liquid on some electronics or something, not an issue w/ too big a rad.

I think the biggest issue issue I had with the 240mm rad was the fact I had no reservoir. Could not get all the air out and a pocket of it must have gotten stuck in the pump. The pump is decently powerful and I do think it could handle a low resistance single pass 240mm rad. Just need to incorporate a a reservoir into the loop and also keeping the tubing to a minimum.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greasy Dave*


Hi,

I'm a noob to the threads and the website. So greetings all. Looking for some advice. I'm building a new pc, specs will be:

i7 920
X58A UD3R
corsair HX 750
HD 5850 (to be crossfired in the future)
and I'm seriously thinking about using an H50 to cool.

I'll be overclocking but nothing extreme. Probaby somewhere about 3.6 Mhz, which is where I've read there's a sweet spot between power consumption and processing power.

Right now I'm trying to decide on a case. And that's where I'd like advice.

Due to my budget and the lack of availability of certain brands where I'm based I'm choosing between the HAF 922, the Storm Scout or the CM 690 II advanced. or the thermaltake Element G.

I'd been seriously thinking about the HAF because above all I'd like a quiet system and I'd mount the radiator and fan on the back fan placement. I'd also been intending to get the one with the closed side panel (to reduce dust and noise) - but that panel won't allow side fan mounting. Which means I'd be limited to only the two 20 mm intake and outake fans, plus the back fan for the H50, plus an optional 120 mm intake on the base of the case. Is that goign to be enough?

Would you reccomend one of the other cases over the HAF. The CM 690 II seems erally nice, very good price and alot of fan options...allegedly it's quite quiet too.


dave id take the HAF 922, i personally have the next model up the 932, and i can say space wise, youll love it


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:



I think the biggest issue issue I had with the 240mm rad was the fact I had no reservoir. Could not get all the air out and a pocket of it must have gotten stuck in the pump. The pump is decently powerful and I do think it could handle a low resistance single pass 240mm rad. Just need to incorporate a a reservoir into the loop and also keeping the tubing to a minimum


Hmmm.. interesting. Willing to try it again?


----------



## RonindeBeatrice

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Volvo*


Hey guys, needa pop a question.
Can I run the H50 pump off a direct 12V supply all day?
Corsair recommends for it to be run at full speed right?


?? The fan header on your motherboard only puts out 12V. The original Asetek unit connects to a 12V accessory line. In fact, when my asetek arrives I'm going to wire it to the motherboard header.


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Hmmm.. interesting. Willing to try it again?










you know I probably would if my case was bigger. to fit a 240mm rad I would need to get out the dremel and go to work on the case and I don't feel like doing that.

OTH I am on the look out for a thick 120mm rad that I can get for cheap. Keeping my eyes open at different forums for a good deal on a used one.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:



you know I probably would if my case was bigger. to fit a 240mm rad I would need to get out the dremel and go to work on the case and I don't feel like doing that.

OTH I am on the look out for a thick 120mm rad that I can get for cheap. Keeping my eyes open at different forums for a good deal on a used one


Ahh.. mount it on the outside of the case?


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Ahh.. mount it on the outside of the case?


nah... a single 120mm can fit inside inside my case where the current stock rad sits.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Right, but the 240mm.. have that outside of the case.


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Right, but the 240mm.. have that outside of the case.


ahh yes I guess I missunderstood.

I want everything inside the case... gives that sleeper look. Also trying stuff a lot of stuff in a small case gives me a hard-on lol


----------



## tlxxxsracer

True. That makes sense.. Ya I look back now, and wish I wouldve spent a extra $ and bought the antec 1200


----------



## mattlef

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


dave id take the HAF 922, i personally have the next model up the 932, and i can say space wise, youll love it


I would have to disagree. the 922 and CM 690II have roughly the same amount of space available to it. Based on that alone, coupled with the price point, i think the better value of the two is the 690II.

Black coating, matched with equal, if not better airflow, more fan options and insane water cooling potential makes the 690II a definite winner in my humble opinion.

However, I'm having some samples sent to me from a company in Sweden who are going to be releasing new cases to the North American market. They'll be around the 110.00CAD pricepoint and are considered dead silent. Think Antec P190series with much better airflow and even better sound dampening with a complete minimalist look.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mattlef* 
I would have to disagree. the 922 and CM 690II have roughly the same amount of space available to it. Based on that alone, coupled with the price point, i think the better value of the two is the 690II.

Black coating, matched with equal, if not better airflow, more fan options and insane water cooling potential makes the 690II a definite winner in my humble opinion.

However, I'm having some samples sent to me from a company in Sweden who are going to be releasing new cases to the North American market. They'll be around the 110.00CAD pricepoint and are considered dead silent. Think Antec P190series with much better airflow and even better sound dampening with a complete minimalist look.

how silent is dead silent...i have so many fans that with them all at full speed...my pc sounds like a 747 taking off...


----------



## mattlef

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
how silent is dead silent...i have so many fans that with them all at full speed...my pc sounds like a 747 taking off...

It uses Bitumen as its sound dampening material. So I can say that it will be a whisper in comparison to most cases, even with a tonne of powerful fans running at 1800rpm if need be







. I can confirm that NCIX will carry it.
Its called the Define R2 from Fractal-Design.

I'll put it through hell and back for you guys, so you'll know what you're dealing with lol.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mattlef* 
It uses Bitumen as its sound dampening material. So I can say that it will be a whisper in comparison to most cases, even with a tonne of powerful fans running at 1800rpm if need be







. I can confirm that NCIX will carry it.
Its called the Define R2 from Fractal-Design.

I'll put it through hell and back for you guys, so you'll know what you're dealing with lol.

have fun with that


----------



## mattlef

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
have fun with that

I plan on it. lol.
But yea, the only issue with most sound dampening foam is that they act as insulation, so it will really increase the ambient temp inside the case, while keeping it quiet. with most there's a trade off... I guess we'll just have to wait and see what this one provides.

As to the H50..... has anyone successfully added a 120.2rad to the loop? i know someone here tried and the pump died, but I'm quite sure the pump is strong enough to handle a 2x120rad. It would have to be low resistance, but if it would work.... then there is a lot of potential. Thinking of even adding a GPU block to the loop if a 2x120 could work


----------



## springtide

Haven't posted here for ages, but after reading this thread (and a few others) have 'upgraded' to the HAF932 and the H-50.

Woe what a difference the H-50 had made to my temps. My 9450 was running pretty hot at 2.8 Ghz (70c 'core' temps) with my Zalman 9700, and overclocking to 3.0Ghz produced 100c+ core temps before quiting Intel Burn testing app (default voltages)

Switched to the H-50 today, with the stock 120mm fan, and I now overclock to 3.2Ghz, and it gets no hotter than 65c (cores) running the Intel Burn test. I'm sure this is probably not any better than a 'true' cooler, but it's pretty quiet even at 'full tilt'.

The question that I have, is I'd ideally like to use the larger 140mm fan at the rear of the HAF932, but can't seem to find any 'Shroud' / 'Adapters' (120mm <-> 140mm) in the UK. Anyone know of any?
The reason for asking, is that I found this:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...0-updated.html

And wondered whether these are 'custom' parts or off the shelf. Seems to have made a reasonable difference. And if the H-50 is setup as push-pull, is there a major impact with regards to noise levels?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mattlef* 
I plan on it. lol.
But yea, the only issue with most sound dampening foam is that they act as insulation, so it will really increase the ambient temp inside the case, while keeping it quiet. with most there's a trade off... I guess we'll just have to wait and see what this one provides.

As to the H50..... has anyone successfully added a 120.2rad to the loop? i know someone here tried and the pump died, but I'm quite sure the pump is strong enough to handle a 2x120rad. It would have to be low resistance, but if it would work.... then there is a lot of potential. Thinking of even adding a GPU block to the loop if a 2x120 could work









if i recall correctly, his pump had to pump to the top of the case, mind you mine is doing that on the stock rad with no issues, i also have as yet to have spare money once more, then i will attempt an H50 mod,in the meantime, i must wait....


----------



## SpykeZ

so, with my hrrible attempt at making the gaskets with a razor blade and a not so steady hand, I had a guy at work hand bend me some blades and he found me a nice spring loaded hole punch which is very useful for the screw holes









ewps, pics coming in a second


----------



## CaptnBB

Thanks for the reply's. I left the tubing a bit on the long side so its very easy for me to clean the front fan filters. The front basy move forward out the front of the case about an inch before you can lift out the filter. I'm not worried about the pump right now. I know it can handle it.

I will be adding an MCR220 or 320 res to the loop in the not to far off future. That's why I added the Radbox.


----------



## mattlef

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


if i recall correctly, his pump had to pump to the top of the case, mind you mine is doing that on the stock rad with no issues, i also have as yet to have spare money once more, then i will attempt an H50 mod,in the meantime, i must wait....


When you do the mod, do a work log







I'm sure everyone would love to see your progress.
I'm thinking of doing a 120x2 loop with the pump at the highest point, pulling from the rad instead of pushing to the rad. might be easier on the pump....
Still trying to decide to either mod this, or just go for a full out w/c loop...
damn you gateway H50, damn you lol


----------



## hollywood406

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


Hollywood, thats awesome and nice set up with Modded H50! 1+REP..










Thanks! I know that the Swiftech is a little OVERdone with everyone else doing the same thing but it fit so well in the Storm Sniper case that I couldn't resist!







and I can't argue with the results........10c drop in temps at load and 5c at idle!

We're working on my Son's setup now and he's doing it a bit different. We'll post some pics of that mod. There's a TON of ideas flowing here and I hope to get a few more ideas for the next "phase"


----------



## mattlef

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hollywood406*


Thanks! I know that the Swiftech is a little OVERdone with everyone else doing the same thing but it fit so well in the Storm Sniper case that I couldn't resist!







and I can't argue with the results........10c drop in temps at load and 5c at idle!


Thats @ 4.0 on the i7? damn. what are you temps like on load?
As well, how did you end up mounting your res? i dont see any mounting hardware anywhere lol


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCPaladin* 









BTW Killhouse-
Since the question of stock TIM comes up almost every day, maybe you could add something to the FAQ on page 1. Not that anyone reads those. Instructions are for losers.

"GUI's are for wimps. A real man hacks away at a command prompt all night."

I'll try and to this tonight. Thanks for the suggestion, any other suggestions are very welcome









Quote:


Originally Posted by *mattlef* 
hey guys, add me to the list of owners.
Big mod planned as well, including the H50....







soon









Adding you now, I love your cable sleeving - very well executed!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
If you plug em directly into the mobo, is 7v the amount it uses or does it use 12v unless you have a resistor?

I would advise against plugging a san ace straight into the motherboard, they may well draw more current than your MoBo can handle. At least check it out thoroughly.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *denied* 
Is there any place on the web where i can order screws for H50 (any direct link)? I appreciate any help!!!









http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/ will ship to Croatia









Quote:


Originally Posted by *purduepilot* 
Oh, the parties you must have at your place...









No kidding









Quote:


Originally Posted by *sexybastard* 
ahh yes I guess I missunderstood.

I want everything inside the case... gives that sleeper look. Also trying stuff a lot of stuff in a small case gives me a hard-on lol
























I know what you mean though. Do you still have the 240 rad, what make was it? I wonder if your pump failure was related to the rad problem or not.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mattlef* 
It uses Bitumen as its sound dampening material. So I can say that it will be a whisper in comparison to most cases, even with a tonne of powerful fans running at 1800rpm if need be







. I can confirm that NCIX will carry it.
Its called the Define R2 from Fractal-Design.

I'll put it through hell and back for you guys, so you'll know what you're dealing with lol.

Fractal Design make fantastic stuff, I use 4 of their case fans and although they dont move much air they are completely silent. They also sell noise dampening kits and the cases that they make are amazingly well setup for quiet operation. Love their stuff.


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*









I know what you mean though. Do you still have the 240 rad, what make was it? I wonder if your pump failure was related to the rad problem or not.












no I returned the rad back to microcenter after the experiment failed. kinda felt bad about it but I buy so much stuff from them that its okay.

I am trying to find a good cheap used thick 120mm rad though. Don't wanna spend anymore than $25. Keep it cheap and I won't feel bad about not just buying a cherry picked loop in the first place.


----------



## Killhouse

Yeah, we'd need to pick a very low flow resistance radiator to go for a 240 rad. I have the case for it so I'm curious to try actually.. Especially as I have long been considering a full loop.

I've actually got the perfect space for two 240mm radiators, then again I have all the performance I need at the noise level I want...


----------



## Zeifer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


how silent is dead silent...i have so many fans that with them all at full speed...my pc sounds like a 747 taking off...


Being bored I decided to make audio clips of the fans on my Antec Twelve Hundred. The microphone was held about five inches away from the middle of the side panel.

All fans on low:
low.wav

Case fans low, GPU fan high:
lowgpu.wav

Case fans low, GPU and PCI fans high:
lowpci.wav

Case fans high, GPU and PCI fans low:
high.wav

All fans high:
highall.wav


----------



## Agaeris

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Yeah, we'd need to pick a very low flow resistance radiator to go for a 240 rad. I have the case for it so I'm curious to try actually.. Especially as I have long been considering a full loop.

I've actually got the perfect space for two 240mm radiators, then again I have all the performance I need at the noise level I want...


Black ice GTX or SR1 240mm


----------



## Greasy Dave

@ PC SArge and Mattlef - thanks for the replies. I've been taking in a tonne of reviews today and have to say, I'm starting to swing towards the 690 II. It's 20 percent cheaper, the fans are as quiet as the HAF and it does have a great option for watercooling later. - it just doesn't come with a funky window









Anyway, I'm not buying this week, I've still time to chew it over. Right now I have to decide if I'm going to go for the H50 or stick to a tower cooler (Noctua NH U12P).

I'm looking for a silent, silent cooling system allowing an i7 920 to be overclocked to about 3.600 Mhz - I know the Noctua can give the performance I'm looking for . . .the H50 can cool too - but I've been unable to find any decent noise performance testing reviews for it.


----------



## meru

Was in this club a few months ago, but I finally finished my setup so cheers!


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


I would advise against plugging a san ace straight into the motherboard, they may well draw more current than your MoBo can handle. At least check it out thoroughly.


So, plugging it into an adapter then into a molex would be better?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


So, plugging it into an adapter then into a molex would be better?


Yeah, you'll want a fan controller though because those things are LOUD. You might be alright to plug it into the motherboard. Most boards support 0.5A, some support 1A. Check your manual perhaps.

I plug this fan a lot but if you can get a Feser it only need 0.51A which can be run off the motherboard.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Agaeris*


Black ice GTX or SR1 240mm


Thanks, I'll look into these.

EDIT: Very clean system Meru, +rep!


----------



## maximus20895

This might be a dumb questions, but do you have to use the Corsair fan that came with the H50 or can you just use another aftermarket one instead?

I was actually thinking of two aftermarket ones..


----------



## Capwn

However your heart desires.
Matching aftermarket fans will most likely yield the best results I would think.
Im still using the Corsair one because at full RPM is moves quite a bit of air. + Corsair fan , Corsiar H50, Corsair Dominator ram. I like the theme


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr. Charles* 
....need to explain WHERE this catagory is . . . .







........









mr. Charles .









.

"Overclock" then add "3d" then ".net"


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Sorry, Im sure this has been asked/said a good 10 times... I have my rad as intake now. Should i have it as CM r4-case-shroud-rad-shroud-ultra kaze... or ultra kaze-case-shroud-rad-shroud-CM r4? 
Kaze pushing or pulling?
I forget if the higher cfm should be pushing air through the rad or pulling it


----------



## doritos93

Noob question here.

I've kinda hit a wall with my current cooler. Will the H50 provide a tiny, small, medium or huge difference compared to my current Noctua cooler?

I just bought the Noctua. The guilt of buying a new cooler would be with me too long if the change isn't significant enough.

Thanks


----------



## Sethy666

So, here is where Im up too...

1) Tried to replicate cooling the H50 pump head with a Antec spot cooler as per Agaeris's post. 
- Was unable to achieve any difference. Mind you, I didnt know the exact distance / angle Agaeris's had his spot cooler.
- Redirected Spot cooler to SB and ram.

2) Prepped a shroud to place between rad>pull .
- Decided instead to place it between push>shroud, thus making the existing shroud a 50mm instead of a 25mm. (34mm supposed to be the sweet-spot)
- Results very promising. 1 hr of OCCT v3 Linpack revealed 34c idle, average load 50c. Room ambient 27c.
- CPU 3Ghz (stock)
- The graph is still on my PC at home (Im at work ATM). Will post later if anyone wants it.

3) Placed a 70mm x 15mm fan over the 3 spare PCI slots below my GPU as ghetto exhaust.
- Impressive amount of hot air being exhausted. Drop case ambient from 40c to 36c. GPU idle dropped from 39c to 37c 
- Ran a 10min OCCT GPU load test; Case ambients sub 40c, where as before they would hit sub 50c = happy camper.

4) Fan / Shroud gaskets
- Meh... still to be convinced.

To Do;
Trial a shroud to place between rad>pull (as suggested by looser101)
Still have to replace the TIM with Shin Etsu... Ill get there one day


----------



## Oussal

Please add me to the Owner's Club, can post a picture or two later this evening from home.
Off-topic question - anyone have a good recommendation for an ambient temp thermometer? Reason I ask is I'm thinking my comp room must be pretty damn low - getting idle temps of 25-30c and load temps ~55-61c on my i5-750 OC'd to 4ghz. Want to try to get a good idea of my delta over ambient to evaluate if going full blown water will be worthwhile before summer rolls around.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *doritos93*


Noob question here.

I've kinda hit a wall with my current cooler. Will the H50 provide a tiny, small, medium or huge difference compared to my current Noctua cooler?

I just bought the Noctua. The guilt of buying a new cooler would be with me too long if the change isn't significant enough.

Thanks


Hey doritos93, welcome to our happy home









The H50 is making good in-roads against the Mega and True (see front page of this thread for comparisons). Cant speak for the Venomous X...

The H50, according to most people on this thread, handles OC very well on both AMD and Intel platforms.

Let me put it this way, Id be very, very reluctant to go back to air after using the the H50.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oussal*

anyone have a good recommendation for an ambient temp thermometer


The technology is all basically the same. You should be able to pick up a nice one at Radio shack.


----------



## goonies

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Hey doritos93, welcome to our happy home









The H50 is making good in-roads against the Mega and True (see front page of this thread for comparisons). Cant speak for the Venomous X...

The H50, according to most people on this thread, handles OC very well on both AMD and Intel platforms.

*Let me put it this way, Id be very, very reluctant to go back to air after using the the H50.*

The technology is all basically the same. You should be able to pick up a nice one at Radio shack.

I concur!


----------



## denied

Just one question while i'm waiting for a shroud and aditional screws (for a second vent)...I have lian li v2010 which have just one vent in front (pulling air in) and one on the back (pulling air out). So, my backside vent MUST pulling air out. Is it better to put shroud in the case with the vent blowing on radiator or outside with the vent blowing from the radiator?

EDIT: I would like to put 2x120mm Scythe S-Flex vents (on 1200 RPM - they said it has cca.49 CFM) - is it enough?


----------



## Agaeris

For those who have tried, how much does shrouding affect fan volume? I just got my Ultra Kaze 3000's in the mail, and just one (UK3K->Rad->R4) dropped load temps 3C! But they are a bit noisy







I mean, not too bad, but if its like a 10% noise drop w/ a shroud I could certainly live w/ it no prob.


----------



## Liability

Using a shroud on the intake will increase noise quite a bit.

Using a shroud on the exhaust will not increase noise at all.

I don't think you'll ever see a reduction in noise from it.


----------



## Agaeris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Liability* 
Using a shroud on the intake will increase noise quite a bit.

Using a shroud on the exhaust will not increase noise at all.

Increase? Everywhere i've looked says the noise decreases?


----------



## Liability

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Agaeris* 
Increase? Everywhere i've looked says the noise decreases?

Not in my experience, at least.


----------



## Capwn

Yeah putting a shroud on my R-4 (intake) fan cut the noise in half


----------



## Liability

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Capwn*


Yeah putting a shroud on my R-4 (intake) fan cut the noise in half


Half? I must be doing something wrong. I ripped apart an old fan to make a shroud out of it and my noise level increased.


----------



## Agaeris

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liability*


Half? I must be doing something wrong. I ripped apart an old fan to make a shroud out of it and my noise level increased.










Maybe air flow through the old fan body not very smooth?

My setup as soon as they get here

UK3K->TFC Xtender->Rad->Case->TFC Xtender->UK3K

One thing i did notice is that the Ultra Kaze's are WAY louder mounted on the rad than in free air, so that is telling me the shroud will most likely have a nice effect on volume w/ a more even and bigger path through the rad


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Agaeris*


Increase? Everywhere i've looked says the noise decreases?


I don't have anything to test with but I think it goes up. I tested the increase in CFM with my Anemometer. Typically an increase in CFM threw a channeled area gets a little louder. Will a PC fan, shroud, and the H50 make it a little louder? I don't know.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Capwn*


Yeah putting a shroud on my R-4 (intake) fan cut the noise in half


Have to agree here. I placed 2 x 25mm shrouds on my push CM R4 (intake) fan... hardly noticable.

Liability, what fan(s) are you using?


----------



## Liability

Stock fan: exhaust
Antec Tricool: intake

And a stock NZXT fan converted into a psuedoshroud. Hoping to pick up some 38mm's soon when I find a good deal, but this is the best I have for now


----------



## mattlef

Has anyone successfully used a TFC Xchanger with this pump?
i'm wondering if the Corsair pump is able to handle this rad even though its a high flow rad.


----------



## Agaeris

Another thing came to my attention today when priming, I think there is enough air in these things to negatively effect performance. I mean, not to the point that they dont work, but enough that if you listen at startup or tip your case, you can hear the bubbles circulating throughout the system. This may be a large reason why the tubing and res mods drop temps as much as they do if properly bled. So anyways, im sittin there priming away, watching temps and pump speed, and every once in a while the pump speed indicator drops down to 0, and every time it does so, the temp jumps and drops back down. Looks to me like there is air circulating in the system, and every time it hits the pump, it cavitates and the hot air hitting the WB bumps temps for a quick sec. Same principle in a cars cooling system, hot air in the system will actually increase the entire system's temp.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Liability* 
Stock fan: exhaust
Antec Tricool: intake

And a stock NZXT fan converted into a psuedoshroud. Hoping to pick up some 38mm's soon when I find a good deal, but this is the best I have for now









Hmmm... nothing jumping out at me. Thats a quality fan.

You probably have but Ill ask anyway. When you converted the NZXT fan, did you file and smooth the supports for the fan body, after you removed the fan and motor structure? If not, it tends to whistle a tad.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Agaeris*
I think there is enough air in these things to negatively effect performance. I mean, not to the point that they dont work, but enough that if you listen at startup or tip your case, you can hear the bubbles circulating throughout the system.

I believe some people have experience the "bubble noises" but accepted that as a design thing. Personally, I have never heard any air noises at all. Ive not experienced the temperature fluctuations you speak of, either.

Then again, Ive not modded the H50 either









Pro-tip: Pls place spaces between long sentences in long posts... it makes it easy to read and understand


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Agaeris* 
Another thing came to my attention today when priming, I think there is enough air in these things to negatively effect performance. I mean, not to the point that they dont work, but enough that if you listen at startup or tip your case, you can hear the bubbles circulating throughout the system. This may be a large reason why the tubing and res mods drop temps as much as they do if properly bled. So anyways, im sittin there priming away, watching temps and pump speed, and every once in a while the pump speed indicator drops down to 0, and every time it does so, the temp jumps and drops back down. Looks to me like there is air circulating in the system, and every time it hits the pump, it cavitates and the hot air hitting the WB bumps temps for a quick sec. Same principle in a cars cooling system, hot air in the system will actually increase the entire system's temp.

This could explain why a few people have crappy temps and others have great temps. For cars it a tad different but you get the concept.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I set my fans as intake now.. dropped temps an extra 1-2C. Idling at 32/33C and full load with Prime at 42/43C


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
I set my fans as intake now.. dropped temps an extra 1-2C. Idling at 32/33C and full load with Prime at 42/43C

Nice... I cant wait for winter here


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:

Nice... I cant wait for winter here
Too bad it doesnt get cold much here in florida.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Too bad it doesnt get cold much here in florida.

There should a new criteria is measuring CPU / GFX temps..

Winter load
Summer load

I get all excited with my temps in winter and they go to hell-in-a-hand-basket soon as summer lands


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:

There should a new criteria is measuring CPU / GFX temps..

Winter load
Summer load

I get all excited with my temps in winter and they go to hell-in-a-hand-basket soon as summer lands
HAHA!! I know what you mean.. I got this computer in October, so Im not sure what the temps will be like in the summer..


----------



## Dodger02WS6

Ok, started reading this thread just after Christmas, and decided I wasn't terribly happy with my Noctua cooler, so I snagged an H50 for my birthday in Janurary, Original config was:

CM Stacker 830, Phenom II 940 BE, ASUS M3A79T-Deluxe, 4x2gb Patriot DDR 2 1066, ASUS Radeon 4870 1gb DK Edition, blah blah blah...

Temps were 36C idle, 42 Load, H50 Exhaust config, CM R4's in Push/Pull with a 25mm shroud on the intake side.

This morning started out like this:








Everybody needs a little help now and then
















The original beast








The Mess

Next Post, the upgrade and first impressions


----------



## Agaeris

Continuation of fan testing from yesterday, plus some math:

So far we have
Titan Fenrir Fan
H50 Stock unit
Cooler Master R4
NEW: Ultra Kaze 3k
NEW Stock CM case fan

Test Method 2 results for each:
TF: 2.29s
H50: 3.52s
CMR4: 2.92s
UK3K: 1.33s
CM Stock: 4.27s

Do the math to find CFM and we have
TF: 45.59
H50: 29.66
CMR4: 35.75
UK3K: 78.50
CM Stock: 24.45

Going to test behind the H50 rad this weekend.


----------



## Dodger02WS6

After hours of pulling everything apart, and waiting for UPS to show up with the goodies, I ended up with this:









Pure Luck, gotta love NewEgg, check out the code









So, it all gets transplanted into...








There were just some space issues that bothered me about the Stacker, so I opted for a HAF 922









H50 pron showing my fan setup









All done... but are we ever really?

Temps are 33C idle, 40C load so far, need to stress the hell out of it and then CRANK up the multi


----------



## twistid

What do you mean check out the code? Is that a good batch?


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I have just finished uploading the video tutorial to youtube. Please let me know what you guys think. I know, Im not the best speaker nor video-man or video editor... I just wanted to get the video done to help others, I apologize for that.
5 parts total


YouTube- Corsair H50 mod Pt. 1


----------



## maximus20895

Would R4's or Yate Loons be better for the radiator?


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I would say R4s.. both have the same cfm, the r4s are quieter. I have 2 of them and I like them alot. Someone correct me if im wrong


----------



## Volvo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RonindeBeatrice* 
?? The fan header on your motherboard only puts out 12V. The original Asetek unit connects to a 12V accessory line. In fact, when my asetek arrives I'm going to wire it to the motherboard header.

If I can get the pump off my mobo, then all the more better.
My mobo can only control 3 fans.
Opt 1 and Opt 2 can only be controlled in 10% steps, and from the BIOS only.
Chassis 1 and 2 are group controlled, meaning that if SpeedFan is set to 25%, both fans run at 25%.
The CPU fan is on its own channel.
If I can get away with this by using a molex to 3 pin adapter for the pump, then I can put a very screamy 40mm fan on my NB, control it by the CPU header, and have my 2 identical intake and exhaust fans gang controlled, and then just leave opt 1 and 2 alone - at 50%.

So is it okay to run this pump at full 12V all day?


----------



## Agaeris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
I would say R4s.. both have the same cfm, the r4s are quieter. I have 2 of them and I like them alot. Someone correct me if im wrong

Take a look a few posts down about my testing. The R4's are great fans, look good, quiet, etc but in the long run dont really move all that much air compared to some of the other similar competitors (now I know they dont come close to the UK3K, almost nothing does). You can get more powerful fans that run around the same dB. the s-flex's are a good start, just pick the one that blends the performance you want with a sound level you can live with.


----------



## sexybastard

nice guide triplexxxsracer! should help a lot of h50 owners take the next step


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:

nice guide triplexxxsracer! should help a lot of h50 owners take the next step
Thanks. Ya, I want to be able to help them out. Since I knew I was confused about things, others will too. I think I covered everything in the tutorial..


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Agaeris* 
Take a look a few posts down about my testing. The R4's are great fans, look good, quiet, etc but in the long run dont really move all that much air compared to some of the other similar competitors (now I know they dont come close to the UK3K, almost nothing does). You can get more powerful fans that run around the same dB. the s-flex's are a good start, just pick the one that blends the performance you want with a sound level you can live with.

I disagree with your statement about the R4's. Regardless of your test. R4 has 3.1mmH20. That's monster static pressure for a 1800 rpm fan. I can tell you I can feel solid air movement from the R4 after it's pulled air through the rad,in conjunction with a shroud, from 18" away. I will put the R4 up against any 1800 RPM 120mm fan out there with the H50 rad.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Agaeris* 
Take a look a few posts down about my testing. The R4's are great fans, look good, quiet, etc but in the long run dont really move all that much air compared to some of the other similar competitors (now I know they dont come close to the UK3K, almost nothing does). You can get more powerful fans that run around the same dB. the s-flex's are a good start, just pick the one that blends the performance you want with a sound level you can live with.









Totally agree. I keep going on about the S-Flex 1600 rpm fan. Great static pressure...very very low noise......dosen't get any better regarding a balance of static presssure, CFM and noise. Perfect for my H50. Google it!!


----------



## Agaeris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
I disagree with your statement about the R4's. Regardless of your test. R4 has 3.1mmH20. That's monster static pressure for a 1800 rpm fan. I can tell you I can feel solid air movement from the R4 after it's pulled air through the rad,in conjunction with a shroud, from 18" away. I will put the R4 up against any 1800 RPM 120mm fan out there with the H50 rad.

Static pressure is much like HP on a car, everyone can give a number, but line em all up at the same time on the same machine and for some reason nobody can every match that number... Gotta take any manufacturer spec with a grain of salt. Not to say the R4 isnt a good fan, but if your going to use it, it HAS to be with a shroud, as this thing loves flinging air out all over the place, not a very good stream un-shrouded. (Also have to consider the shroud effectively increases operating pressure of ANY fan you pair it with). Put this thing up against an Ultra Kaze 2k and see who wins that match. Sure its 38mm, but it is a 120mm, and same speed, 2k RPM.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
........... I will put the R4 up against any 1800 RPM 120mm fan out there with the H50 rad.

WHOA ! ! !







. . . .sound's(look's) like a Serious Challenge has just been broadcast'd . . . . .







....







....







....







. . . . .{ i wanna see the outcome & these result's, that's 4 sure . . . .









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## maximus20895

If you are talking about the S-flex model number SFF21F then i'm confused.

It has a CFM of 63.7 @ 28 db

The R4 has a CFM of 60.9 @16 db


----------



## Agaeris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maximus20895* 
If you are talking about the S-flex model number SFF21F then i'm confused.

It has a CFM of 63.7 @ 28 db

The R4 has a CFM of 60.9 @16 db

Ah! there goes again, you gotta be careful with those manufacturer specs. Cooler Master gives us airflow at max RPM, but dB at min RPM...


----------



## maximus20895

well it would be nice if it was a standard.. I got those specs from frozen cpu. What model scyth is good? I thought the stock corsair h50 fan was 60CFM @ 30 db?


----------



## Agaeris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maximus20895* 
well it would be nice if it was a standard.. I got those specs from frozen cpu. What model scyth is good? I thought the stock corsair h50 fan was 60CFM @ 30 db?

Well in this case, the R4 beats out the stock corsair unit!








the Kaze Ultra 2000 would be a serious contender for 2000 RPM fan area, tons of pressure, good airflow, not too loud. If you just want to perform and forget noise, get the Ultra 3000! A pair of those and you may as well be at the airport


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Agaeris* 
Well in this case, the R4 beats out the stock corsair unit!







the Kaze Ultra 2000 would be a serious contender for 2000 RPM fan area, tons of pressure, good airflow, not too loud. If you just want to perform and forget noise, get the Ultra 3000! A pair of those and you may as well be at the airport









I agree with Agaeris, especially with advertised db...almost always BS. Read the real world tests. Yes, it is the SFF21F I'm talking about. Some sites even have sound clips so you can hear the different fans for yourself. The SFF21F beats the Ultra Kaze 2000 rpm fan in both airflow and static pressure when the ultra Kaze is dialed down to a tolerable noise level (i.e. 7 volts) and it's quieter. Google it. The 3000 rpm ultra kaze is just way too loud at 12 v unless your computer is in another room from the keyboard and monitor. Extremely annoying high pitched sound...like a small vacuum cleaner right beside you.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:

The 3000 rpm ultra kaze is just way too loud at 12 v unless your computer is in another room from the keyboard and monitor. Extremely annoying high pitched sound...like a small vacuum cleaner right beside you.
Headphones or play music through speakers. LOL


----------



## Dodger02WS6

Maybe it's just my setup, but I tried a new Ultra Kaze 2000 with a 25mm Shroud vs my CM R4 w/25mm shroud and saw no difference in temps at idle or load, I opted for the R4 because it's quieter...


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:



Maybe it's just my setup, but I tried a new Ultra Kaze 2000 with a 25mm Shroud vs my CM R4 w/25mm shroud and saw no difference in temps at idle or load, I opted for the R4 because it's quieter...


Maybe your case airflow? I noticed that as exhaust in my 902. I also have that bigboy fan up top. So I think it was stealing air away.. and I didnt have much intake air either. 
I noticed having intake itll drop 2C or so. Im using the ultra kaze 3000-push and R4-pull


----------



## Dodger02WS6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Maybe your case airflow? I noticed that as exhaust in my 902. I also have that bigboy fan up top. So I think it was stealing air away.. and I didnt have much intake air either. 
I noticed having intake itll drop 2C or so. Im using the ultra kaze 3000-push and R4-pull


Honestly, I'm happy enough with the fan selection and temps vs my old Noctua that 1-2C doesn't matter to me, not to mention the headache of having to move everything around


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Agaeris*


Continuation of fan testing from yesterday, plus some math:

So far we have
Titan Fenrir Fan
H50 Stock unit
Cooler Master R4
NEW: Ultra Kaze 3k
NEW Stock CM case fan

Test Method 2 results for each:
TF: 2.29s
H50: 3.52s
CMR4: 2.92s
UK3K: 1.33s
CM Stock: 4.27s

Do the math to find CFM and we have
TF: 45.59
H50: 29.66
CMR4: 35.75
UK3K: 78.50
CM Stock: 24.45

Going to test behind the H50 rad this weekend.


Thanks Agaeris, a lot of work has gone into this. Again, some interesting results there.

I think your key message is this...

Quote:



Not to say the R4 isnt a good fan, but if your going to use it, it *HAS *to be with a shroud,


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maximus20895*


well it would be nice if it was a standard.. I got those specs from frozen cpu. What model scyth is good? I thought the stock corsair h50 fan was 60CFM @ 30 db?


For 25mm thick fans then the Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm. And forget about the numbers unless they were tested pushing or pulling air through a rad.


----------



## Dodger02WS6

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Agaeris was testing UK3K, you are using 2000... that might be the difference <?>


I actually wasn't refering to this when I made my comment, but I can see how it could have been misunderstood. There was a comment made earlier about UK2K beating R4's, I saw no difference in my setup so I was just commenting on that.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dodger02WS6* 
I actually wasn't refering to this when I made my comment, but I can see how it could have been misunderstood. There was a comment made earlier about UK2K beating R4's, I saw no difference in my setup so I was just commenting on that.

















okay... me bad. Post amended


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dodger02ws6* 
after hours of pulling everything apart, and waiting for ups to show up with the goodies, i ended up with this:









pure luck, gotta love newegg, check out the code









So, it all gets transplanted into...








there were just some space issues that bothered me about the stacker, so i opted for a haf 922









h50 pron showing my fan setup









all done... But are we ever really?

Temps are 33c idle, 40c load so far, need to stress the hell out of it and then crank up the multi









CONGRATS! you got HAF922.. I bet that you really pleasure with HAF922 and H50..


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
I have just finished uploading the video tutorial to youtube. Please let me know what you guys think. I know, Im not the best speaker nor video-man or video editor... I just wanted to get the video done to help others, I apologize for that. 5 parts total

Just wanted to say thanks for taking the time out to document and video this mod. Great job!







+rep


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
For 25mm thick fans then the Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm. And forget about the numbers unless they were tested pushing or pulling air through a rad.

I second that. GT 1850's all the way!


----------



## Agaeris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
CONGRATS! you got HAF922.. I bet that you really pleasure with HAF922 and H50..









So there is an H50 group, and HAF group, seems there are enough of us to have a HAF50 group









Got about 3 or 4 shipments coming in over the next two days, when they do I will retest all my fans through the H50 rad to measure drop. Also going to get a 5.25" voltage regulator so I can play around with my UK3K's a bit. Shrouds should be coming in as well hopefully. Should be able to measure flow through the rad w/ the H50 pump as well this weekend.


----------



## Dodger02WS6

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
CONGRATS! you got HAF922.. I bet that you really pleasure with HAF922 and H50..









Yes, I was already pretty happy with the H50, I just wasn't terribly happy with the Stacker 830, I'm already liking the HAF much better.


----------



## error10

Sign me up, I just installed my H50 last night!


----------



## Capwn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *error10*


Sign me up, I just installed my H50 last night!


Look how close you are to 1337


----------



## yummybar

Count me in on this club please ^^


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


I have just finished uploading the video tutorial to youtube.


this post should be put in the FAQ in the OP.

once again... great job racer.


----------



## Agaeris

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yummybar*


Count me in on this club please ^^


How you doing w/ the volume on those UKazes?


----------



## Xs1nX

Ive not seen the H50 mounted this way but is there any reason why the following mounting would not work ?

Case Rear|Rad|Fan Blowing out though Rad.

Instead of the usual single fan setup of -
Case Rear|Fan|Rad


----------



## jalyst

Has anyone in this thread used one of these?
http://www.ncixus.com/products/35702...012200/Asetek/
http://www.northq.com/products/coolers/nq3590.html

I'm thinking of getting one instead of the H50 because of the larger rad.
If yes are they weaker in other ways compared to the H50?

I don't have any 120mm fan vents on my old Lian-Li... 
So I may have to find a way to mount the rad externally.

Not sure if the hoses are going to be long enough though.

Thanks.


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


There should a new criteria is measuring CPU / GFX temps..

Winter load
Summer load

I get all excited with my temps in winter and they go to hell-in-a-hand-basket soon as summer lands










I agree! It's baking here in South Africa too. Not too bad today, but my case still sits at 31 deg idle. Lucky with 9 fans (2 for H50 + 1 PSU + 6 others) keep my case from gaining anymore than 2-3 deg under load.

In your other post you said your case gets to 50 deg! Oh man, I freaked out when it hit 38 in mine.

Anyways, the following mod (cost me less than US$5), helps a lot to create more turbulence in my case, and case temps are down 3-4 deg and CPU temps are about 4-6 deg down. Note: I have the side window model, so those 2 fans just 'spreads' fresh air. No intake, so I have 3 intake, 2 for turbulence and 4 exhaust. (I also wish I had better camera, so I can show how the smokey effect looks on the bottom blue fan, basically sanded a transparent fan, now the LED's look like they are blowing out smoke







).

Attachment 140194

For some dumb reason ASUS decides to put the motherboard sensor right below the PCI-E x16 slot... There is no logical airflow there, except if you take off all your slot covers.









And here are my temps:

Attachment 140198

And before you ask W T F is that app, it's a little app I wrote to monitor every thing 3/4 utilities does, and due to the fact that my ASUS mobo (and maybe the whole range) has a bug in it's temperature calibration method in the ACPI. Currently it only does i7, the basic ASUS super i/o hw monitor chip (which is the same as many other manufacturers), and the ASUS EPU chip (for real VID and power consumption). The application is pretty much enough for me*, but as a bonus I will release it as opensource, so people can actually add support for more H/W monitor chips. I had to pretty much learn all this stuff from reverse-engineering and had a hard time finding info (funny enough, the linux kernel is a great source for getting insight into these things, but alas it is not quite enough). Took me about 4-5 weeks to figure most stuff out, and has been a great learning exercise for an experienced high level programmer. I also plan on writing an article on the program, and how to add support for other chips, in a few weeks.

OK, that was way off-topic, but the time has come!









* That's not true, I still want to find out how to get HDD and GP temps! (and those TurboV settings for voltages, which you can get via ACPI)

PS: Also note how awesome the ASUS EPU does load-line calibration by default! My load volts are within 0.0125V of my BIOS setting, even on this entry-level mobo.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xs1nX*


Ive not seen the H50 mounted this way but is there any reason why the following mounting would not work ?

Case Rear|Rad|Fan Blowing out though Rad.

Instead of the usual single fan setup of -
Case Rear|Fan|Rad


You have to try in your own setup. Some fans perform better pushing rather than pulling, and also sound louder pulling if against the rad. If you have space then a shroud >25mm (ie 2x25mm shrouds) generally provide a performance boost with a single fan. Fans with very curved and cupped blades seem to work very well pushing.


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Fans with very curved and cupped blades seem to work very well pushing.

Those fans generally (very generally and biased) provide better static pressure compared to 'flat' blades, but also provides less CFM compared to similar fan (ok, very similar).


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Thanks everyone for the kind words. I just wish I had a tripod and could actually record the whole process.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


Those fans generally (very generally and biased) provide better static pressure compared to 'flat' blades, but also provides less CFM compared to similar fan (ok, very similar).


But we are not talking about case fans. We are discussing rad fans. Rad fans need to push or pull air through the rad, not become anemic when you put a rad in front of them. That's why you need fans with good static pressure... to still be able to maintain good flow when you put them on a rad.


----------



## Killhouse

*Front page updated.*
- New members added.
- New FAQ post in regards to thermal paste
- Changed the "links" section, splitting it into Mods, Testing and other resources.

Also added a link to tlxxxsracer's video tutorial, +rep to you for that.









Keep the discussions going, I love coming back from lectures and reading 30 pages of conversation to find the new members









_EDIT: If you have any suggestions for improvement to the front page, especially in terms of content. Please let me know. Also if anyone wants to submit a question for the FAQ just PM me._


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


But we are not talking about case fans. We are discussing rad fans. Rad fans need to push or pull air through the rad, not become anemic when you put a rad in front of them. That's why you need fans with good static pressure... to still be able to maintain good flow when you put them on a rad.


Same principle. The pressure/CFM curve stays the same. Just deviates with different (or different model) fans at the same speed.


----------



## Ocnewb

Finally i managed to take some pics so here is my setup







.
Notice i have a filter on my H50's fan because i have it as in-take setup so it would help with the dust. This in-take setup gives me really great temps so i don't think i need to change it to exhaust.
*Pics 1*: Oh yah i love my Haf922 clear side panel

















*Pic 2* I love Red n White CCFLs.










*Pic 3.*


----------



## Xs1nX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


You have to try in your own setup. Some fans perform better pushing rather than pulling, and also sound louder pulling if against the rad. If you have space then a shroud >25mm (ie 2x25mm shrouds) generally provide a performance boost with a single fan. Fans with very curved and cupped blades seem to work very well pushing.


Would probably use a Gentle Typhoon for this in terms of single fan push. I take it for this mounting id just use normal fan screws to mount rad to case then use the long screws included with the H50 to mount fan to rad ?

Cooler wise im also looking at the Megahalems but the H50 looks to be much easier to fit and much less potential issues with motherboards and memory to so its back on the list again


----------



## PC Gamer

I noticed an annoying "grinding noise" when I start up my pc for the first minute that was never there. Through troubleshooting I'm thinking it might be the pump on the H50. Should I be concerned?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PC Gamer*


I noticed an annoying "grinding noise" when I start up my pc for the first minute that was never there. Through troubleshooting I'm thinking it might be the pump on the H50. Should I be concerned?


If its a sort of buzzing noise, thats normal - also happens when the pump is running hot. If it's a gurgling noise, thats absolutely fine.

A grinding noise is perhaps not so normal...


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xs1nX*


Would probably use a Gentle Typhoon for this in terms of single fan push. I take it for this mounting id just use normal fan screws to mount rad to case then use the long screws included with the H50 to mount fan to rad ?

Cooler wise im also looking at the Megahalems but the H50 looks to be much easier to fit and much less potential issues with motherboards and memory to so its back on the list again










The GT performs much better than the H50 fan. Short 6-32 screws (not fan screws) to mount the rad to the case and the Corsair screws for the GT. But, if you have the room, 1 or preferably 2 25mm shrouds will allow it to perform even better. case<rad<GT


----------



## Xs1nX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
The GT performs much better than the H50 fan. Short 6-32 screws (not fan screws) to mount the rad to the case and the Corsair screws for the GT. But, if you have the room, 1 or preferably 2 25mm shrouds will allow it to perform even better. case<rad<GT

How short is should would you say so i know what to google or go into store to find ?


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xs1nX* 
How short is should would you say so i know what to google or go into store to find ?

Check in the little bag of screws that came with your case. Many use 6-32 screws for a variety of things including the PCI slot covers. Just make sure it screws in smoothly without having to force it.

Edit: These will work too.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25979


----------



## sendblink23

I'll soon be joining here









I already have my H50, I'm just still saving $$$ to buy a bigger case (Antec 1200) to be able to use it.


----------



## CaptnBB

you will love the 1200.


----------



## Jeffro422

Quote:


Originally Posted by *yummybar* 
Count me in on this club please ^^


















Niceeee, Ultra Kaze 3K are the best cooling solution for the H50
















Edit:: Although I think you should make the fans an intake not exhaust setup.


----------



## Jeffro422

YouTube- Ultra Kaze 3K





Video I just made of my setup at 3K RPM just so we can see how loud two Ultra Kaze really are.

Wow I called them Yate Loons in the back...I meant Scythe.


----------



## bearlout

please add me to the list.........
mine will be here the 11th.........

and pictures soon after


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jalyst* 
Has anyone in this thread used one of these?
http://www.ncixus.com/products/35702...012200/Asetek/
http://www.northq.com/products/coolers/nq3590.html

I'm thinking of getting one instead of the H50 because of the larger rad.
If yes are they weaker in other ways compared to the H50?

I haven't personally, but, I read somewhere that the NorthQ one didn't perform as well as the H50. I'm not sure about the Asetek one w/ 240mm rad.


----------



## enkrypt3d

I reversed the fans on my H50 to exhaust instead of intake on a push > pull setup and the CPU idles at 28C now! omg and when playing Crysis for hours it never gets above 41C... I'd say its a HUGE improvement over what I had before..... and my 8800GTX was getting up to 90C while playing games with it on intake !














so I had to switch it around and now it sits around 60C during gaming .....pretty amazing! No idea why Corsair recommends it to be intake ....







Very happy now to see the huge difference!


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *enkrypt3d*


! No idea why Corsair recommends it to be intake ....


They actually changed their stance on it after everyone starting dicking with running two fans on it as exhaust and re did the video for it.


----------



## xmisery

Well, a week ago I posted about ordering up some fans, shrouds and a new front intake so I could try out a bunch of different combination's of things. For now, I settled on this:

Installed the Scythe Kama Bay Plus (took up 3x 5.25" bays)
- mounted a 120x42mm Airbox inside closest to the front
- followed by a GT 1850
- followed by another 120x42mm Airbox
- followed by another GT 1850

This created an air tunnel to pull/push cool air smack into the middle of my case.

I then setup my H50 radiator as push/pull exhaust using 2 different fans.
- GT 1850 [push]
- YL 1650 (Blue LED) [pull]

So far, I'm very pleased with the results. This system is super quiet and yields amazing results!

i7 920 @ 4.0GHz @ 1.192v
Ambient 23c
Idle 34c-38c
Load 60c-66c (Intel Burn Test v2.4 - Stress Level "High" - 20 passes)

(do these seem like decent temps to everyone? Is that considered a good stress test?)

I also have a TFC Xtender Shroud sitting here, that I want to incorporate somehow. I may pull out either the YL or GT from the radiator and just do a single fan w/ the 31mm TFC shroud and see how that does. I didn't want to place any fans on the outside of the case, but, I may end up doing that just to see what kind of temp drops I will see.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


i7 920 @ 4.0GHz @ 1.192v
Ambient 23c
Idle 34c-38c
Load 60c-66c (Intel Burn Test v2.4 - Stress Level "High" - 20 passes)

(do these seem like decent temps to everyone? Is that considered a good stress test?)

I also have a TFC Xtender Shroud sitting here, that I want to incorporate somehow. I may pull out either the YL or GT from the radiator and just do a single fan w/ the 31mm TFC shroud and see how that does. I didn't want to place any fans on the outside of the case, but, I may end up doing that just to see what kind of temp drops I will see.










Looks real good to me! Running exhaust works best in most cases.

Your temps look pretty darn good! Don't worry about a lot of posters temps with Idles in the upper 20's.. I think its because its Winter and ambient temps are really low!








Nice setup! Take some pics


----------



## elementskater706

Just got done modding my H50 with my the help of my father (hollywood406). Unfortunately my temps did not get any better. Oh well, at least they didn't get any worse.


----------



## Ocnewb

You should put on another fan for push/pull setup which could give you better temps. Nice mod!! Btw, what's the size of barb n tube that you used? Thanks


----------



## Mishtasteele

So I just bought and installed the H50 in my rig. I ran it under my normal overclock speed of 3.6ghz and when I run LinX the temps shoot way up to 83c. Previously with my Hyper 212+ I would get temps in the low to mid 70s. My ambient is at 22C. I have time after time reseated the H50 and temps are not changing. Anyone happen to know what I am doing wrong?


----------



## enkrypt3d

Quote:



Originally Posted by *enkrypt3d*


I reversed the fans on my H50 to exhaust instead of intake on a push > pull setup and the CPU idles at 28C now! omg and when playing Crysis for hours it never gets above 41C... I'd say its a HUGE improvement over what I had before..... and my 8800GTX was getting up to 90C while playing games with it on intake !














so I had to switch it around and now it sits around 60C during gaming .....pretty amazing! No idea why Corsair recommends it to be intake ....







Very happy now to see the huge difference!


just wanted to bump this to the next page - man these pages go by so fast....


----------



## elementskater706

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ocnewb*


You should put on another fan for push/pull setup which could give you better temps. Nice mod!! Btw, what's the size of barb n tube that you used? Thanks










Thanks. Those pics were before I put everything back together. I have a push/pull on it right now. The tubing is 1/4".


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mishtasteele* 
So I just bought and installed the H50 in my rig. I ran it under my normal overclock speed of 3.6ghz and when I run LinX the temps shoot way up to 83c. Previously with my Hyper 212+ I would get temps in the low to mid 70s. My ambient is at 22C. I have time after time reseated the H50 and temps are not changing. Anyone happen to know what I am doing wrong?

The only other thing I can think of that would cause something like that is the Fan control. Make sure you run your pump at full speed (~1450 rpm). So whichever fan port you have your pump plugged into, go into Bios and disable any fan controls that are auto and make sure it's running at 100%.


----------



## Mishtasteele

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
The only other thing I can think of that would cause something like that is the Fan control. Make sure you run your pump at full speed (~1450 rpm). So whichever fan port you have your pump plugged into, go into Bios and disable any fan controls that are auto and make sure it's running at 100%.

All my fan controls were disabled. Pump is running at around 1400RPM and the fan is running around 1620RPM. I am beginning to pull my hair over this thing


----------



## Jeffro422

So new consensus is to setup as an exhaust? Anyone test this with push/pull?


----------



## Jeffro422

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mishtasteele* 
All my fan controls were disabled. Pump is running at around 1400RPM and the fan is running around 1620RPM. I am beginning to pull my hair over this thing









Intake or exhaust?


----------



## jalyst

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
I haven't personally, but, I read somewhere that the NorthQ one didn't perform as well as the H50. I'm not sure about the Asetek one w/ 240mm rad.

Are you absolutely sure?
The H50 with a 120mm rad performed better than a NQ with a 240mm rad?
How could that be, any idea where you read that?

If true then that means the H50 performs better than the Asetek 240mm too!
Because as far as I can tell it's the same as the NQ (still 100% confirming)

Thanks.


----------



## Mishtasteele

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jeffro422* 
Intake or exhaust?

Fan is installed as intake


----------



## jalyst

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jalyst* 
Has anyone in this thread used one of these?
http://www.ncixus.com/products/35702...012200/Asetek/
http://www.northq.com/products/coolers/nq3590.html

I'm thinking of getting one instead of the H50 because of the larger rad.
If yes, are they weaker in other ways compared to the H50?

Anyone else?

Quote:

I don't have any 120mm fan vents on my old Lian-Li (PC-60?)
So I may have to find a way to mount the rad externally.
Not sure if the hoses are going to be long enough though.
Has anyone successfully done something like this?

I want to do it with the Asetek 240 or the NQ-3590 if they're available in Oz.
If they're not (will know soon) then I will be doing it with a H50.

Thank-you.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jalyst*


Are you absolutely sure? 
The H50 with a 120mm rad performed better than a NQ with a 240mm rad?
How could that be, any idea where you read that?

If true then that means the H50 performs better than the Asetek 240mm too!
Because as far as I can tell it's the same as the NQ (still 100% confirming)

Thanks.


It was on a forum somewhere. Some guy who owned both the NorthQ Siberian Tiger II and the H50, said that his H50 outperformed his NorthQ Siberian Tiger II. That said, it's just a single persons claim. It makes sense that a dual 120mm rad would perform better than a single 120mm rad though. Unless, the H50 has a better pump and/or better designed radiator? *shrug*

If you end up getting it, keep us informed on how it performs. I know I'd be interested in hearing about it as would a few others.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mishtasteele*


All my fan controls were disabled. Pump is running at around 1400RPM and the fan is running around 1620RPM. I am beginning to pull my hair over this thing










Hmmm. Well, that sounds right, just the temps don't. When you installed the pump/block, did you do half-turns on each of the 4 screws in a diagonal/cross pattern, so that even pressure was applied when tightening it down to the CPU? Also, depending on the case, maybe try flipping your fan around so you are using it as exhaust, rather than intake. The only other thing I can think of is the TIM application. Make sure its completely clean on both CPU and Pump. Apply 5 small dots on the CPU like this, which should equal about a pea-size in total:

O - O
- O -
O - O


----------



## jalyst

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


It was on a forum somewhere. Some guy who owned both the NorthQ Siberian Tiger II and the H50, said that his H50 outperformed his NorthQ Siberian Tiger II. That said, it's just a single persons claim. It makes sense that a dual 120mm rad would perform better than a single 120mm rad though. Unless, the H50 has a better pump and/or better designed radiator? *shrug*

If you end up getting it, keep us informed on how it performs. I know I'd be interested in hearing about it as would a few others.


Any idea which forum it was on?
I'd be amazed if true, but as I said, that prolly rules out the Asetek 240 too if it is.
Which means I'll also be joining this club


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jalyst*


Any idea which forum it was on?
I'd be amazed if true, but as I said, that prolly rules out the Asetek 240 too if it is.
Which means I'll also be joining this club










Hmm, a quick google search revealed these links:

Verdict: Three times the price of a good HSF, and worse at cooling.

Very similar to my NorthQ 3580 Siberian Tiger, exept H50 performs MUCH better!

*update* Hmm, after looking more closely, I don't think those links are for the Siberian Tiger II, rather the I instead.


----------



## jalyst

Hmm could've sworn I'd already done a search surrounding it, maybe I hadn't, may bad








Wonder why the heck it's only slightly better than the 3580 & supposedly worse then a good air cooler? 
That doesn't sound right, anyway thanks for the leads, I'll dig deeper...

*update* yeah they're for the older 120mm version, the mystery deepens...


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jalyst*


Hmm could've sworn I'd already done a search surrounding it, maybe I hadn't, may bad








Wonder why the heck it's only slightly better than the 3580 & supposedly worse then a good air cooler? 
That doesn't sound right, anyway thanks for the leads, I'll dig deeper...


No problem. Yeah, while I was digging around, it said the 3590 (dual rad version) only cools about 5% more than the H50. I guess it's better than nothing. You may want to look at pricing and see if it's worth the extra cash.


----------



## jalyst

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


while I was digging around, it said the 3590 (dual rad version) only cools about 5% more than the H50.


source? I'm still researching I'll let you guys know what I find.


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Well, a week ago I posted about ordering up some fans, shrouds and a new front intake so I could try out a bunch of different combination's of things. For now, I settled on this:

Installed the Scythe Kama Bay Plus (took up 3x 5.25" bays)
- mounted a 120x42mm Airbox inside closest to the front
- followed by a GT 1850
- followed by another 120x42mm Airbox
- followed by another GT 1850

This created an air tunnel to pull/push cool air smack into the middle of my case.

I then setup my H50 radiator as push/pull exhaust using 2 different fans.
- GT 1850 [push]
- YL 1650 (Blue LED) [pull]

So far, I'm very pleased with the results. This system is super quiet and yields amazing results!

i7 920 @ 4.0GHz @ 1.192v
Ambient 23c
Idle 34c-38c
Load 60c-66c (Intel Burn Test v2.4 - Stress Level "High" - 20 passes)

(do these seem like decent temps to everyone? Is that considered a good stress test?)

I also have a TFC Xtender Shroud sitting here, that I want to incorporate somehow. I may pull out either the YL or GT from the radiator and just do a single fan w/ the 31mm TFC shroud and see how that does. I didn't want to place any fans on the outside of the case, but, I may end up doing that just to see what kind of temp drops I will see.










wow those are amazing temps. im jealous







screenshot of the rig please


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CaptnBB*


you will love the 1200.


That is what I am hoping for.. but still need a bit more $$$ to get it... afterwards officially managing to put on use the H50.... it sucks the radiator doesn't fit in my current case.. if you could see how I have a 120mm fan in it.. you would laugh your pants off =D

At least for my current cheap air cooling I am surviving


----------



## Mishtasteele

Alright so I got frustrated and took everything out of my case and reinstalled the bracket and all. I carefully watched how the bracket and the mount on the front were going in and I noticed sometimes my the teeth were not catching all the clips, only about half. But I went ahead and tightened the screws in a X pattern and went in the bios and reset my overclock back to stock and my temps look much better. Idle in stock is now 19C-24C. Load is now 38C-44C. Much happier now but I am not looking forward to ever taking this thing off again.

Thanks to everyone that was helping me out. I really appreciate it! Now to see how far I can overclock.


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mishtasteele* 
Alright so I got frustrated and took everything out of my case and reinstalled the bracket and all. I carefully watched how the bracket and the mount on the front were going in and I noticed sometimes my the teeth were not catching all the clips, only about half. But I went ahead and tightened the screws in a X pattern and went in the bios and reset my overclock back to stock and my temps look much better. Idle in stock is now 19C-24C. Load is now 38C-44C. Much happier now but I am not looking forward to ever taking this thing off again.

Thanks to everyone that was helping me out. I really appreciate it! Now to see how far I can overclock.









It happened to a lot of us (me too). At least now you know


----------



## CorteX

Add me please.









No pic as currently digital camera = not.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jalyst*


Are you absolutely sure? 
The H50 with a 120mm rad performed better than a NQ with a 240mm rad?
How could that be, any idea where you read that?

If true then that means the H50 performs better than the Asetek 240mm too!
Because as far as I can tell it's the same as the NQ (still 100% confirming)

Thanks.


Apparently Corsair redesigned the pump/block with Asetek help to improve its performance. So it should beat the equivalent Asetek product.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mishtasteele*


Alright so I got frustrated and took everything out of my case and reinstalled the bracket and all. I carefully watched how the bracket and the mount on the front were going in and I noticed sometimes my the teeth were not catching all the clips, only about half. But I went ahead and tightened the screws in a X pattern and went in the bios and reset my overclock back to stock and my temps look much better. Idle in stock is now 19C-24C. Load is now 38C-44C. Much happier now but I am not looking forward to ever taking this thing off again.

Thanks to everyone that was helping me out. I really appreciate it! Now to see how far I can overclock.










TIP: pull up on the upper bracket while you insert and lock the pump into position. Then pull up on the pump to keep it in position in the upper bracket while you tighten the screws down. This also keeps you from smearing your TIM.


----------



## hollywood406

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
TIP: pull up on the upper bracket while you insert and lock the pump into position. Then pull up on the pump to keep it in position in the upper bracket while you tighten the screws down. This also keeps you from smearing your TIM.

Good tip. I learned the hard way and had to loosen the screws and move the pump. I was just catching the lip of the tabs so my temps were OK, I was just nervous that it would slip off or get cocked and overheat









I only had to move the pump a fraction so I didn't remove it completely or replace the thermal grease. Temps are 31c idle still and the loop is working great









+rep for the tip!


----------



## Killhouse

Posting from my phone because my computer is in pieces









I'll update the member list once my computer is running again, tonight or tomorrow.

Cable sleeving - 'nuff said.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mishtasteele* 
Alright so I got frustrated and took everything out of my case and reinstalled the bracket and all. I carefully watched how the bracket and the mount on the front were going in and I noticed sometimes my the teeth were not catching all the clips, only about half. But I went ahead and tightened the screws in a X pattern and went in the bios and reset my overclock back to stock and my temps look much better. Idle in stock is now 19C-24C. Load is now 38C-44C. Much happier now but I am not looking forward to ever taking this thing off again.

Thanks to everyone that was helping me out. I really appreciate it! Now to see how far I can overclock.









Cool, glad to hear you're back in business now!







Have fun OC'ing!


----------



## PCSarge

i ran a nice heavy graphics card/ cpu stress test while having fun. i ran crysis on maximum settings. the cpu constantly sat at 38C load! the graphics card on the stock cooler sat at 44C, so i'm a pretty happy girl atm

EDIT: that was with a heating vent 2 feet to the right of my PC blowing air down towards it, itll probably drop lower in the summer


----------



## Coldplayer

thinking of getting a h50 or a noctua nhu12p not sure which will be better. Im using a p182 case if that matters.


----------



## denn_is

can you add me please?


----------



## jrealing

Just got the H-50 yesterday. I don't have time this week end to put it in. but next weekend I'll put it in. Right now I'm running on my stock cooler. Any one run this on a similar set up, check my System. Also sign me up!


----------



## HandGunPat

In my antec 900 sign me up!
CPU - AMD Athlon 64 x2 5000+ 3.3GHz OC'd. Idle 32/40 Load


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HandGunPat* 
In my antec 900 sign me up!



Sweet pics! Nice cable management too from what I can tell.


----------



## moocowman

I plan on getting one of these as soon as I can afford it, they seem like a really solid cooler.


----------



## Djero

haf 922 and corsair h50 here too







i hope u make a club named hah50







so i am really imressed with my corsair h50 too .. but i am a liitle dissapointed with the noise level ... it is very loudy .. i changed the fan of corsair with a SilenX Ixterma Pro 120MM 14 db 72 CfM , maybe the temperatures have droped a little bit but i dont see any diferrence in the noise ... please i want a liitle help for it .. also i use in the side window another one SilenX ixterma pro fan and the fan that was as the back fan in the chassis ,in the side the first is pulling air inside the case ( it is the one that is at the bottom ) and the other is pushing the air outside the window... also i use the corsair as intake with the fan i said and the up windows is pushing air outside and the front pulling air inside the chasis ..


----------



## 00Smurf

add me please, mine is on the way.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Djero* 
haf 922 and corsair h50 here too







i hope u make a club named hah50







so i am really *imressed* with my corsair h50 too .. but i am a liitle dissapointed with the noise level ... it is very _*loudy*_ .. i changed the fan of corsair with a SilenX Ixterma Pro 120MM 14 db 72 CfM , maybe the temperatures have droped a little bit but i dont see any diferrence in the noise ... please i want a liitle help for it .. also i use in the side window another one SilenX ixterma pro fan and the fan that was as the back fan in the chassis ,in the side the first is pulling air inside the case ( it is the one that is at the bottom ) and the other is pushing the air outside the window... also i use the corsair as intake with the fan i said and the up windows is pushing air outside and the front pulling air inside the chasis ..


Glad you're IMPRESSED with the H50! Too bad yours is so LOUD(?) though.









Welcome to the club!


----------



## Scart

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jeffro422*


So new consensus is to setup as an exhaust? Anyone test this with push/pull?



yes.. but no shroud now


----------



## enkrypt3d

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Scart*


yes.. but no shroud now


Originally Posted by enkrypt3d 
I reversed the fans on my H50 to exhaust instead of intake on a push > pull setup and the CPU idles at 28C now! omg and when playing Crysis for hours it never gets above 41C... I'd say its a HUGE improvement over what I had before..... and my 8800GTX was getting up to 90C while playing games with it on intake ! so I had to switch it around and now it sits around 60C during gaming .....pretty amazing! No idea why Corsair recommends it to be intake .... Very happy now to see the huge difference!

so yes it works much better with exhaust as long as there is cool air coming in the front ... .... I'm going to put one of these in the front to help even further:

http://www.censuspc.com/product-pr-10284.html

I routed all my cables and stuck the unused ones in the 3.5 bay and maybe put a small tube inside to route the cold air from the front straight to the push pull setup in the back of the case... thoughts?


----------



## gerikoh

i'm about to buy one later. i was wondering on how to install a 38mm fan on it. like my san ace fan.


----------



## OtherMike

I got a quick question for all you H50 owners.

how tall is the base of the cooler, I've got about 55mm to work with in a build i am working on, and i want more cooling than a traditional low-pro cooler can provide. judging by all the pics i've seen it looks like it will fit, but i wanted to be sure.


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OtherMike*


I got a quick question for all you H50 owners.

how tall is the base of the cooler, I've got about 55mm to work with in a build i am working on, and i want more cooling than a traditional low-pro cooler can provide. judging by all the pics i've seen it looks like it will fit, but i wanted to be sure.


The water block/pump wont be a problem but the hoses could be. They are pretty stiff but they will bend.


----------



## Sethy666

Okay, got all my jobs done and here is the outcome...

Now... pics

Pics 1&2 - 50mm push shroud and MX 3 TIM
Pics 2&3 - 50mm push shroud and 25mm pull shroud AND Shin Etsu TIM
Room ambient for both tests - 26c, Humidity 80% (very muggy)

Alot of variables here, I know, but Im very happy with the results. Draw your own conclusions









Addit: the difference between the Shin Estu 23x and MX3 appears to be minimal. The change of TIM was the last thing I did and there was a not a great degree of variation. Perhaps once the TIM settles in and spreads a tad more, there may be some change.

@Leppie - Ive added a 70mm exhaust fan to the 3 spare PCI slots below my GFX card. Its pulling an insane amout of air (& heat) out of the case. Case ambients sub 50c when folding and gaming


----------



## OtherMike

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dkev*


The water block/pump wont be a problem but the hoses could be. They are pretty stiff but they will bend.


thx dude. if i am correct in assuming that you can mount it one of four ways on a 775 socket cpu than the hoses shouldn't be an issue. the pump fitting was my main concern


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *enkrypt3d*


Originally Posted by enkrypt3d 
I reversed the fans on my H50 to exhaust instead of intake on a push > pull setup and the CPU idles at 28C now! omg and when playing Crysis for hours it never gets above 41C... I'd say its a HUGE improvement over what I had before..... and my 8800GTX was getting up to 90C while playing games with it on intake ! so I had to switch it around and now it sits around 60C during gaming .....pretty amazing! No idea why Corsair recommends it to be intake .... Very happy now to see the huge difference!

so yes it works much better with exhaust as long as there is cool air coming in the front ... .... I'm going to put one of these in the front to help even further:

http://www.censuspc.com/product-pr-10284.html

I routed all my cables and stuck the unused ones in the 3.5 bay and maybe put a small tube inside to route the cold air from the front straight to the push pull setup in the back of the case... thoughts?

















I did something similar. Bought the Kama Bay Plus, ripped out the crappy fan that it came with and hooked up a 42mm Airbox to it, followed by a Gentle Typhoon 1850, followed by another 42mm Airbox, followed by a Yate Loon 1650 Blue LED Fan, it fits perfectly inside the cage and doesn't hang out of the back and blows cold air from the front right smack into the middle of the case and absolutely love it!


----------



## xmax126

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jalyst*


Anyone else?

Quote:



Quote:
I don't have any 120mm fan vents on my old Lian-Li (PC-60?)
So I may have to find a way to mount the rad externally. 
Not sure if the hoses are going to be long enough though.



Has anyone successfully done something like this?

I want to do it with the Asetek 240 or the NQ-3590 if they're available in Oz.
If they're not (will know soon) then I will be doing it with a H50.

Thank-you.


Not sure if this is what you are looking for. Not the same case but its mounted externally.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...e-my-case.html


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmax126*












I am starting to think this is the best setup for the heavy heated i7's.


----------



## Mishtasteele

I just wanted to add that I love the H50! I have done an overclock to 3.6GHz on my i5 750 and it idles at 26c and loads at 54c!







Definitely worth the money to invest in this cooler!


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
I am starting to think this is the best setup for the heavy heated i7's.

I have my doubts with this setup, if you happen to own dual-slot video cards that exhaust the hot air out the back of the case. As the hot air is blown outside the back of the case and rises, you'll have the radiator sitting at the top only to suck in the hot air that just got released outside the case. Granted, not everyone uses the same type of video cards, but, they are pretty common, so using this setup would be on a case-by-case basis as being "the best setup for the heavy heated i7's", IMHO.


----------



## xmax126

If you have your rad mounted on the back of your case as an intake, you are sucking in your hot gpu exhaust anyway. At least in the case with it mounted externally, the air is just blowing up and into the room.

I will have my fans blowing down into the rad when i get a new gpu that blows out the back of the case.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mishtasteele*


I just wanted to add that I love the H50! I have done an overclock to 3.6GHz on my i5 750 and it idles at 26c and loads at 54c!







Definitely worth the money to invest in this cooler!


Oh yeah! We love it too


----------



## jalyst

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Apparently Corsair redesigned the pump/block with Asetek help to improve its performance. So it should beat the equivalent Asetek product.


Yeah I know Corsair redesigned the block, not so sure about the pump.
But how do we know Asetek didn't improve upon their original 120m block/pump/etc for the newer 240mm LCLC system?


----------



## jalyst

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


while I was digging around, it said the 3590 (dual rad version) only cools about 5% more than the H50.


Source please? I couldn't find anything that mentioned this.

I'm still wating on responses to questions I've put to NorthQ and Asetek. 
I'll let you guys know what I find out...


----------



## jalyst

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmax126*


Not sure if this is what you are looking for. Not the same case but its mounted externally.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...e-my-case.html











Ah brilliant so there is hope!? It looks like the hoses are long enough.
LT I intend to line mine flush up against two rear 120mm fans of my desktop form-factor case. 
But in the meantime I'll have to do something like this with my (PC-60?) mini-tower.

Thanks for sharing!


----------



## Coldplayer

anyone know should i buy this or a true120? case is a p182 btw


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmax126* 
If you have your rad mounted on the back of your case as an intake, you are sucking in your hot gpu exhaust anyway. At least in the case with it mounted externally, the air is just blowing up and into the room.

I will have my fans blowing down into the rad when i get a new gpu that blows out the back of the case.

Well, with it being mounted on the back of the case, I was assuming you would set it up as exhaust, rather than intake. However, what's odd is that I have the dual gpu's exhausting out the rear of my case, and just for a trial run, I swapped my fans to intake and it actually cooled the CPU by 1c.







Even though it was 1c cooler, I decided to stick with exhaust anyway. So, it will boil down to your specific case and how much air movement you have on which is the best way to go.


----------



## Volkswagen

I was going to pick up a shroud but before I placed the order I wanted to confirm and make sure that it can fit- I can't even fit a 25mm fan in there- hit's the pump


----------



## denied

What is better - S-Flex 1600rpm or Slip Stream 1600? I'm asking because s-flex should have cca. 63cfm and slip stream over 80cfm. I know slip stream have thinner and 2 blades more but such a big difference? Which would have more static preassure?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *denied* 
What is better - S-Flex 1600rpm or Slip Stream 1600? I'm asking because s-flex should have cca. 63cfm and slip stream over 80cfm. I know slip stream have thinner and 2 blades more but such a big difference? Which would have more static preassure?

Someone might need to confirm this, but, I believe the Slipstreams make a whining noise when placed on the radiator? You may or may not like that. The S-Flexes would probably be the better choice. An alternative would be the Gentle Typhoon 1850's which are really quiet and move a good amount of air through radiators pretty well. I've got a pair of them on mine now and very happy with the results.


----------



## denied

Thanks xmisery, thats what i need (info from first hand)







. I don't need "freezing" temperatures just want most quiet case with solid cooling. And it takes little space in the case (better cooling in the case all together)....It's much better than any "brick" (air cooling)


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *denied*


What is better - S-Flex 1600rpm or Slip Stream 1600? I'm asking because s-flex should have cca. 63cfm and slip stream over 80cfm. I know slip stream have thinner and 2 blades more but such a big difference? Which would have more static preassure?


I'm using the S-Flex fans in my sys specs below. Nice airflow and relatively quiet.


----------



## ConstanT1ne32

HELP, I have H50 1st series. I installed 1366 bracket as instructed but now I cant get it out, its just stuck to motherboard... I think that sticky bit which hold bracket in place is causing it... Any idea what I should do?


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I realized that having my ultra kaze 3000 at the highest rpm doesnt benefit me over having at 2000/2200 rpm. Im wondering if the rad is built for low rpm/cfm


----------



## Moniker

Exhaust may not always be the way to go depending upon the airflow in your case.

I have an ATCS 840 and originally installed a push/pull exhaust set-up and ran prime95 overnight on my 920 leaving it stock. Hottest core settled on 66C.

Just for the hell of it I switched it to intake the next night, using only the 38mm Panaflo 1BX spinning @60% or about 1700 RPM. Ran the same prime95 blend test overnight and that same hottest core settled at 56C.

Just moving from exhaust to intake dropped my load temps 10C!

The reason I think this happened is the 2 230mm fans on the top of the ATCS 840. Cool air from outside the case is moving across the radiator and is immediately being exhausted out the top. The only other fan I have in the case at the moment is the 230mm intake in front the hard drive cage.


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Someone might need to confirm this, but, I believe the Slipstreams make a whining noise when placed on the radiator? You may or may not like that. The S-Flexes would probably be the better choice. An alternative would be the Gentle Typhoon 1850's which are really quiet and move a good amount of air through radiators pretty well. I've got a pair of them on mine now and very happy with the results.


Slipstreams are dead quiet on the rad. I use 2 of them with shrouds on my H50.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


I realized that having my ultra kaze 3000 at the highest rpm doesnt benefit me over having at 2000/2200 rpm. Im wondering if the rad is built for low rpm/cfm


lol. I found out the same thing a few days ago when I swapped my setup:

Exhaust -- Ultra Kaze 3k => Shroud => Rad => Slipstream 2k

Both Scythe Fans are connected to my Fan Controller. My temps stay the same regardless of Fan Speeds with this setup.

So I just have my Controller at the slowest possible speeds, and the noise is barely audible, but the temps remain great!


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Moniker*


Exhaust may not always be the way to go depending upon the airflow in your case.

I have an ATCS 840 and originally installed a push/pull exhaust set-up and ran prime95 overnight on my 920 leaving it stock. Hottest core settled on 66C.

Just for the hell of it I switched it to intake the next night, using only the 38mm Panaflo 1BX spinning @60% or about 1700 RPM. Ran the same prime95 blend test overnight and that same hottest core settled at 56C.

Just moving from exhaust to intake dropped my load temps 10C!

The reason I think this happened is the 2 230mm fans on the top of the ATCS 840. Cool air from outside the case is moving across the radiator and is immediately being exhausted out the top. The only other fan I have in the case at the moment is the 230mm intake in front the hard drive cage.


Yup I would say that would be a good cause of it. You might try a fan with high static pressure on the intake side (inside the case if you run that direction). This should help that situation.


----------



## Potoroo

I've just built my new rig with a 960 and an H50, it's barely 48 hours old. It's running on stock at the moment although I've run a few short overclocking tests. I'm here because I'm concerned about my temperatures, which seem higher than other rigs I've seen, although to be fair 99.9% of them are 920s.

I had thought the 960s lower base clock would help but my idle temperatures range from 39C to 43C and the RealTemp sensor test (Prime95 for about 10 minutes) shoots that up as high as 76C (ambient 27C). Overclocking takes that into the stratosphere. I'm not sure whether there is a problem with my installation or whether the BIOS is forced to run slightly higher voltages to keep my system stable because I've got 12GB (6 x 2GB). Either way I'm not thrilled at the moment, and I'm wondering whether I've made an expensive mistake.


----------



## Moniker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Potoroo* 
I've just built my new rig with a 960 and an H50, it's barely 48 hours old. It's running on stock at the moment although I've run a few short overclocking tests. I'm here because I'm concerned about my temperatures, which seem higher than other rigs I've seen, although to be fair 99.9% of them are 920s.

I had thought the 960s lower base clock would help but my idle temperatures range from 39C to 43C and the RealTemp sensor test (Prime95 for about 10 minutes) shoots that up as high as 76C (ambient 27C). Overclocking takes that into the stratosphere. I'm not sure whether there is a problem with my installation or whether the BIOS is forced to run slightly higher voltages to keep my system stable because I've got 12GB (6 x 2GB). Either way I'm not thrilled at the moment, and I'm wondering whether I've made an expensive mistake.

Just noticed you have the same case I do, how are your case fans arranged?

Take a look at my post a couple up from yours, you should try switching your radiator fans to intake.


----------



## McLaren_F1

i7 920 D0 vcore 1.275 @ 4.0GHz idle temp is 40c and Load temp is 70-75c
Config is <=FAN=SHROUD=RAD<=FAN
Are those temps acceptable?


----------



## Moniker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1* 
i7 920 D0 vcore 1.275 @ 4.0GHz idle temp is 40c and Load temp is 70-75c
Config is <=FAN=SHROUD=RAD<=FAN
Are those temps acceptable?

Looks pretty good for the Vcore you're sending through it. Do you have hyperthreading disabled?

For reference, I'm at 4GHz with 1.25 Vcore and load temps are 60C on the coolest core and 65C on the hottest.


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Potoroo*


I've just built my new rig with a 960 and an H50, it's barely 48 hours old. It's running on stock at the moment although I've run a few short overclocking tests. I'm here because I'm concerned about my temperatures, which seem higher than other rigs I've seen, although to be fair 99.9% of them are 920s.

I had thought the 960s lower base clock would help but my idle temperatures range from 39C to 43C and the RealTemp sensor test (Prime95 for about 10 minutes) shoots that up as high as 76C (ambient 27C). Overclocking takes that into the stratosphere. I'm not sure whether there is a problem with my installation or whether the BIOS is forced to run slightly higher voltages to keep my system stable because I've got 12GB (6 x 2GB). Either way I'm not thrilled at the moment, and I'm wondering whether I've made an expensive mistake.


Man your post confused me, as I knew I replied to it, but in the other thread









My point still stands. Summer is bad, mmkay.

(also look if mounted correctly)


----------



## moocowman

Just ordered my H50 from Newegg! I can't wait!


----------



## ConstanT1ne32

HELP, I have H50 1st series. I installed 1366 bracket as instructed but now I cant get it out, its just stuck to motherboard... I think that sticky bit which hold bracket in place is causing it... Any idea what I should do?


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ConstanT1ne32*


HELP, I have H50 1st series. I installed 1366 bracket as instructed but now I cant get it out, its just stuck to motherboard... I think that sticky bit which hold bracket in place is causing it... Any idea what I should do?


You mean the supplied double sided tape?

Just pull it off gently.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ConstanT1ne32*


HELP, I have H50 1st series. I installed 1366 bracket as instructed but now I cant get it out, its just stuck to motherboard... I think that sticky bit which hold bracket in place is causing it... Any idea what I should do?


why do you want the bracket off? are you swapping mobos?









if not why take it off







sounds like a stupid idea

the sticky stuff is 2 way tape...just peel it off


----------



## Killhouse

*Front Page Updated*

233 members







It gets harder to update every time!


----------



## ConstanT1ne32

I tried, its just stuck(tape), i even tried to pull it quite hard but it just doesnt come off..


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
Slipstreams are dead quiet on the rad. I use 2 of them with shrouds on my H50.

Cool, thanks for validating that!


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ConstanT1ne32* 
I tried, its just stuck(tape), i even tried to pull it quite hard but it just doesnt come off..

Use a credit card to pull it apart. Then remove that junk









A piece of masking tape is good enough while you mount it. Just remove it afterwards.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


Use a credit card to pull it apart. Then remove that junk









A piece of masking tape is good enough while you mount it. Just remove it afterwards.


Pro Tip: Don't use a good/valid credit card, as you may end up cracking the card if it doesn't come off that easily.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*


i7 920 D0 vcore 1.275 @ 4.0GHz idle temp is 40c and Load temp is 70-75c
Config is <=FAN=SHROUD=RAD<=FAN
Are those temps acceptable?


Seems okay. Probably on the higher side of the acceptable range. For reference, I'm running my 920 D0 vcore 1.19 @ 4.0GHz idle temps range from 33c-37c and load temps are around 56-61c. It might be because I'm running it at a lower vcore though.


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Pro Tip: Don't use a good/valid credit card, as you may end up cracking the card if it doesn't come off that easily.










Sorry, I didn't know I had to make my post idiot-proof


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


Sorry, I didn't know I had to make my post idiot-proof










Haha, no worries mate. I didn't mean anything by it.


----------



## Killhouse

Finally got some decent shots of my H50, I borrowed my mates camera just after I finished sleeving my whole build. That explains my inactivity around here, hopefully this will get the ball rolling.

Yes - thats my 55mm Feser fan. I love it. I've been folding for 3 hours now and the fan hasnt gone above 600 RPM to keep my 965 at a moderate 47C, I can keep it at 37C when I crank it up.


----------



## CaptnBB

nice sleeving job.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CaptnBB*


nice sleeving job.


Cheers, there's a lot more pics in my worklog. There's a lot of good competition for MOTM this month but I'm hopeful








http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...ml#post8419336


----------



## CaptnBB

I'll vote for you.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Finally got some decent shots of my H50, I borrowed my mates camera just after I finished sleeving my whole build. That explains my inactivity around here, hopefully this will get the ball rolling.

Yes - thats my 55mm Feser fan. I love it. I've been folding for 3 hours now and the fan hasnt gone above 600 RPM to keep my 965 at a moderate 47C, I can keep it at 37C when I crank it up.


















Hey where can I get a custom case like that? I want one exactly like yours (color well it doesn't matter, but i want a big box like yours) & well I am 965 as well







I'm at 4.0Ghz with a crappy Codegen 550w PSU with crappy air cooling(Zalman CNPS9700 110mm + 1 x 120mm + 5 x 80mm fans), my Corsair H50 I can't use it yet because it doesn't fit my current case... but still my air cooled so far the temps are 32c idle, 46c 57% load, 52c max load









Anyways how much $$$ does that type of Case cost?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
Hey where can I get a custom case like that? I want one exactly like yours (color well it doesn't matter, but i want a big box like yours) & well I am 965 as well







I'm at 4.0Ghz with a crappy Codegen 550w PSU with crappy air cooling(Zalman CNPS9700 110mm + 1 x 120mm + 5 x 80mm fans), my Corsair H50 I can't use it yet because it doesn't fit my current case... but still my air cooled so far the temps are 32c idle, 46c 57% load, 52c max load









Anyways how much $$$ does that type of Case cost?

I built it myself, I dont know the exact price but it's a lot - the acrylic alone cost me ~$200. See my worklog in my sig for more details.

You'd definetely get the H50 in one though


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I built it myself, I dont know the exact price but it's a lot - the acrylic alone cost me ~$200. See my worklog in my sig for more details.

You'd definetely get the H50 in one though









I wish you could charge me to make me one, just the case *really exactly how you have it(same cuts & even of the optical drive) or similar







heheheeee

Either way Great Job on your complete Mod


----------



## Killhouse

Thanks







I'm afraid I'm in no situation to be building another. It's weeks of work and I dont have that sort of time until summer. All the latest pics are in the worklog and you can always post there if you want some more info.


----------



## sendblink23

Beep!

Going read it all I like it


----------



## CaptnBB

I have decided that I will be going to the MCR320 rad as my next mod. Now I just have to wait until my next pay. ha ha. Should be interesting though. The MCR320 hast less PSI drop then the MRC220 according to reviews I have read.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CaptnBB*


I have decided that I will be going to the MCR320 rad as my next mod. Now I just have to wait until my next pay. ha ha. Should be interesting though. The MCR320 hast less PSI drop then the MRC220 according to reviews I have read.


Thats the key here, you dont happen to know the PSI drop over the stock radiator do you?


----------



## neDav

I just installed an H50 into one of these http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...ake-_-11133035. I love this cooler.


----------



## Killhouse

Oh very nice case! I would love to see a pic of the H50 in one of those shuttle cases if you ever get the chance. I love the cube shape of them.

_Added you_

EDIT: Still not gone 19C above ambient, been folding for around 7 hours now. It's actually providing some nice heat in my room, my mind toys with the idea of ducting the output to my fingers. They're getting a bit cold


----------



## neDav

Alright Killhouse, just because you asked. Believe me it wasn't easy, but it was made a lil easier thanks to Mr. Dremel. Give me a few mins.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Finally got some decent shots of my H50, I borrowed my mates camera just after I finished sleeving my whole build. That explains my inactivity around here, hopefully this will get the ball rolling.

Yes - thats my 55mm Feser fan. I love it. I've been folding for 3 hours now and the fan hasnt gone above 600 RPM to keep my 965 at a moderate 47C, I can keep it at 37C when I crank it up.


















Founder, thats AWESOME CUSTOMIZE & BUILT! is this for LAN GAMING?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


Founder, thats AWESOME CUSTOMIZE & BUILT! is this for LAN GAMING?


Thanks, nah it's just for moving back and forth between uni and home and looking cool









You can vote for it here or PM [PWN]Schubie with your vote if you have less than 35 rep.


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Moniker*


Looks pretty good for the Vcore you're sending through it. Do you have hyperthreading disabled?

For reference, I'm at 4GHz with 1.25 Vcore and load temps are 60C on the coolest core and 65C on the hottest.


Turbo is ON


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *neDav*


Alright Killhouse, just because you asked. Believe me it wasn't easy, but it was made a lil easier thanks to Mr. Dremel. Give me a few mins.


Cool, I'm looking forward to these pics. Just to see how you made it fit









EDIT: 
To those asking about MOTM, you can also PM [PWN]Schubie with your vote choice if you have less than 35 rep.


----------



## neDav

Ok time for some pics.......

View from front of case.









View from rear of case.









You can see a lil bit of the H50 there.









I had to stick my phone inside the case to get this pic.









A peek from the outside.









8800 Ultra on the oppisite of the case.









Exhuast from fan/rad.









Cut I had to make in the optical drive cage so the rad/fan could fit.









Cut I made for the 8800 Ultra, or ANY high end video card, could fit.









No cable management, but I don't care, it was hard enough to get everything to fit.


----------



## Killhouse

Very nice NeDav, I think thats the smallest case I've seen teh H50 in now.


----------



## neDav

Thanks.., I was considering trying to put one in an HP slimline.

http://www.amazon.com/Pavilion-S3100.../dp/B000S6NYW2

But I need to buy the parts first, new mobo, cpu, gpu (low profile) & PSU. Of course the rad/fan will have to sit outside the case for this one.


----------



## PCSarge

yay... they made me take my picture off because i was deemed "inapropriate" and "trolling" .....





















no doubt they'll chew me out for this post too...


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ConstanT1ne32*


I tried, its just stuck(tape), i even tried to pull it quite hard but it just doesnt come off..


1) Try heating it with a hair dryer or heat gun.
if that fails
2) Try dabbing some eucalyptus oil with a cotton bud as you left it off... it will disolve the adhesive.

*PCSarge* We are a family friendly forum... they keep telling us this









*Killhouse*.... love your work man. If you dont get a place in MOTM, I will be.... annoyed.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


yay... they made me take my picture off because i was deemed "inapropriate" and "trolling" .....





















no doubt they'll chew me out for this post too...


They are just mad about your great looks


----------



## PCSarge

i try sethy.... just they dont like me i guess....


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


*PCSarge* We are a family friendly forum... they keep telling us this










That's true. We are seen publicly and wouldn't want to give anyone the wrong impression


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i try sethy.... just they dont like me i guess....


We like you... thats all that matters


----------



## PCSarge

i cant believe it only took 2 hours to beat crysis warhead...i'm deeply dissapointed in how short the game is









oh and my avatar was before i added the 140mm blue LED fan in the rear, and mounted my shroud+ pull fan inside, and yes killhouse...its mounted with regular fan screws and thumbscrews holding it to the rad

EDIT: guitarguy, why are all the PCI case slot covers missing from the back of your case in your avi pic?


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i cant believe it only took 2 hours to beat crysis warhead...i'm deeply dissapointed in how short the game is










Yeah, it isn't the most eventful game after you finish with the tunnel stuff. The original Crysis was pretty good though.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


Yeah, it isn't the most eventful game after you finish with the tunnel stuff. The original Crysis was pretty good though.


i got the "maximum edition" pack, with crysis,crysis warhead, and crysis wars, for $55 i played warhead first (i always play games out of order)


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i got the "maximum edition" pack, with crysis,crysis warhead, and crysis wars, for $55 i played warhead first (i always play games out of order)


I wish I got mine legally








Seriously, $55 is pretty good for 3 games that cost that by themselves when they came out.

EDIT: Off topic.


----------



## dude120

im very happy with the results of the h50. my idle temps are 34c, 33c,31c,29c on my core i7, (10c improvement over my zalman 9900) and intaking air into the case with the 2 120mm fans on either side of the radiator has put ambient temps at 17c in the case while the cpu is idling and load temps at the mid to low 50's. These are pretty good temps right? How much would anyone estimate modifying the h50 lower my temps. (just wondering)


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dude120* 
im very happy with the results of the h50. my idle temps are 34c, 33c,31c,29c on my core i7, and intaking air into the case with the 2 120mm fans on either side of the radiator has put ambient temps at 17c in the case while the cpu is idling and load temps at the mid to low 50's. These are pretty good temps right? How much would anyone estimate modifying the h50 lower my temps. (just wondering)

Are you overclocked?


----------



## pololance

I've been keepin my [email protected] at 34C idle and 54C fully loaded in my mid-tower. I love the ease of install and clean look it adds to the case.


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


Are you overclocked?


no, im running at the stock 2.66 ghz.


----------



## Potoroo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Moniker*


Just noticed you have the same case I do, how are your case fans arranged?


Exhaust, just like all the enthusiast forums said to.









Quote:



Take a look at my post a couple up from yours, you should try switching your radiator fans to intake.


Yes, I found your post shortly after posting and the difference is staggering. I read in one ATCS 840 review that case cooling under load isn't great because it's simply too big. For that reason I had considered your configuration as I wondered whether the twin top exhaust 230s would cope with extracting the incoming hot air before it heated other components like the RAM. One reason I liked the top exhaust was because with the radiator mounted on the 120 rear mount it covered one of the motherboard's passive cooling heatsinks (I also have the P6X58D Premium).

I will most certainly try it on the 120 rear mount as push-pull intake in due course. However, as luck would have it, I've had to RMA one of the top 230s. I'll wait until I get it replaced and run on stock in the meantime, so it will be a few days before I can report back.

Do you have a picture of your mount?


----------



## Moniker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Potoroo*


Exhaust, just like all the enthusiast forums said to.









Yes, I found your post shortly after posting and the difference is staggering. I read in one ATCS 840 review that case cooling under load isn't great because it's simply too big. For that reason I had considered your configuration as I wondered whether the twin top exhaust 230s would cope with extracting the incoming hot air before it heated other components like the RAM. One reason I liked the top exhaust was because with the radiator mounted on the 120 rear mount it covered one of the motherboard's passive cooling heatsinks (I also have the P6X58D Premium).

I will most certainly try it on the 120 rear mount as push-pull intake in due course. However, as luck would have it, I've had to RMA one of the top 230s. I'll wait until I get it replaced and run on stock in the meantime, so it will be a few days before I can report back.

Do you have a picture of your mount?


This is when I had it as an exhaust, basically all I did was switch the radiator and that 38mm Panaflo you see there.


----------



## jalyst

*bump* Anyone? Thanks.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Apparently Corsair redesigned the pump/block with Asetek help to improve its performance. So it should beat the equivalent Asetek product.

Yeah I know Corsair redesigned the block, not so sure about the pump...

But how do we know Asetek didn't improve upon their 120mm LCLC for the newer 240mm LCLC system?
And how do we determine if the NQ-3590 is the same or different to the LCLC 240mm?


----------



## Pings

The NQ-3590 has the Asetek logo on it, I bet its the same as the LCLC 240mm. You could by the LCLC 240mm or the NQ-3590 and tell us. I plan on buying the LCLC 240mm and throwing my H50 in my HTPC.


----------



## jalyst

xmisery claims he/she saw commentary which indicates the NQ-3590 is only 5% better than a H50.

Not sure what 5% means, little vague to me...
But if true and if the LCLC 240mm is exactly the same, than neither seems like a worthwhile buy.

I'm still searching for relevant comparative data and will post if I find anything.
Other HTPC components are a higher priority for me atm though...


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jalyst* 
xmisery claims he/she saw commentary which indicates the NQ-3590 is only 5% better than a H50.

Not sure what 5% means, little vague to me...
But if true and if the LCLC 240mm is exactly the same, than neither seems like a worthwhile buy.

I'm still searching for relevant comparative data and will post if I find anything.
Other HTPC components are a higher priority for me atm though...

You think? Come on, it has more surface area to do a more efficient heat exchange with. You don't need "relevant comparative data", all you need is just to buy and find out for your self. A 120mm radiator vs a 240mm radiator made by the same company, the 240mm should be a easy win. Just get the cooler already. If someone hasn't done a review on them yet it's gona be some time before they do, if anyone ends up doing it.


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


Maybe your case airflow? I noticed that as exhaust in my 902. I also have that bigboy fan up top. So I think it was stealing air away.. and I didnt have much intake air either. 
I noticed having intake itll drop 2C or so. Im using the ultra kaze 3000-push and R4-pull


I noticed that, too, Seemed the Bigboy on high (-134) was confusing airflow. I have Bigboy "low" now, especially after I noticed overall case airflow CFMs was a too high "negative" flow (-89). So I have adjust the Bigboy to low, and am running my other fans (blackfire 4's) at very tolerable mid & high speeds
Current fan config: 
79 front upper exhaust (blackfire4)
70 front lower intake (blackfire4)
83 top bigboy
90 H50 rear intake (2 x CMR4 Push/Pull)
38 GTX260 GPU (stock evga cooler)
20 92mm PWM Nidec GPU/Case Exhaust
56 side intake (blackfire4)
---
216 intake - 220 exhaust
= 
*-4 negative*, which is just the way I like it, slightly negative airflow.

In a day or two when the rest of my parts come in though, it will all change up -- doing the tubing mod, and will mount the radiator externally. Before I cut into any tubing though, I am going to remount my Xiggy 1283 with my two new CMR4's in Push/Pull, with the "tape mod", and see how my temps are. If the temps are only differing 2-3 degrees from my temps with the H50 (47 max under load) I think I will ditch the H50 and get both my feet completely wet by going to a fully custom WC loop instead of modding the tubing & adding the tiny Repack reservoir I bought, which I think can only reduce temps by another 1-2, maybe 3 max.

Might as well go for it, I figure, especially now that I have learned so much about WC, from my 2 months hanging out here in H50 thread-ville (and while my H50 is still in stock shape & therefore more sale-able).


----------



## jalyst

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


You think, c'mon... You don't need "relevant comparative data", all you need is just to buy and find out for your self. Just get the cooler already.


Easy there tiger









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


A 120mm radiator vs a 240mm radiator made by the same company, the 240mm should be a easy win.


Well at a casual observation one would assume that... 
But many claim there are substantive improvements (differing opinions over what exactly) to the H50. 
So these may well give it a boost "despite" having a much smaller rad.

This 5% difference was only claimed for the NQ-3590... 
No idea if it's the same for the LCLC 240mm, I'm still establishing whether both are exactly the same.
I've finally got feedback from one vendor, so hopefully I'll know soon.

Then it's just a matter of finding anything that backs those claims.
If there isn't anything, then I'll pick one based on recent reviews & what each Co. has said.
Then I may do some final quick comparisons with the H50...

Quote:



If someone hasn't done a review on them yet it's gona be some time before they do, if anyone ends up doing it.


I haven't looked closely enough, 
Which is why I said I'll post when/if I find something, when I actually do look closely.


----------



## alayoubi

Hi Guys,

what's the best position for the H50 setup to get rid of air bubles !? (choose a number)

1- The default position like this :










2- Or up side down like this :










3- Or like this :









AND Is there any problem if the cpu block/pump and the Radiator were at a different level like this:










or it's better at the same level ?


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alayoubi*


Hi Guys,

what's the best position for the H50 setup to get rid of air bubles !? (choose a number)


It's a closed system, it should not matter, you should only hear a bit of gurgling for at most 10 seconds if you H50 changed orientation.


----------



## CaptnBB

2. I find the res inside the pump can let the air out quicker this way and there's less chance of it staying air locked.

Quote:



Thats the key here, you dont happen to know the PSI drop over the stock radiator do you?


Unfortunately there has been no real world testing done on the h50 rad as far as pressure drop goes, you can only guess. Which I don't recommend.


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alayoubi*


Hi Guys,

what's the best position for the H50 setup to get rid of air bubles !? (choose a number)


Whatever air might be found in a stock H50 loop isn't going anywhere, not until that loop is cracked into to do some modding -- not having to worry about eliminating air bubbles is part of the reason to buy an All-In-One.

In a 'modded' H50, adding a Reservoir or T-Line at the highest point is the ideal way to bleed her, right guys?


----------



## alayoubi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
It's a closed system, it should not matter, you should only hear a bit of gurgling for at most 10 seconds if you H50 changed orientation.

Your right , that's what happen indeed .

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyclometric* 
Whatever air might be found in a stock H50 loop isn't going anywhere, not until that loop is cracked into to do some modding -- not having to worry about eliminating air bubbles is part of the reason to buy an All-In-One.

In a 'modded' H50, adding a Reservoir or T-Line at the highest point is the ideal way to bleed her, right guys?

Thanks 4 replying , take a look at this link regarding the setup position & tell me yr opinion at 35sec from begining :


YouTube- Quick Update Corsair H50 and Koolance X58 Waterblock


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


yay... they made me take my picture off because i was deemed "inapropriate" and "trolling" .....





















no doubt they'll chew me out for this post too...


Wow, I really liked that picture!! Quite stunning


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


You think? Come on, it has more surface area to do a more efficient heat exchange with. You don't need "relevant comparative data", all you need is just to buy and find out for your self. A 120mm radiator vs a 240mm radiator made by the same company, the 240mm should be a easy win. Just get the cooler already. If someone hasn't done a review on them yet it's gona be some time before they do, if anyone ends up doing it.


Check this out, After closer review he is testing a asetek 240mm rad and pump unit. Performence is only very slightly more than the H50...problem seems to be not enough flow rate through the larger rad. I suspect the H50 pump would be faced with the same problem if you were to add-on a 240 mm rad to it...even a low resistance rad.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Check this out, After closer review he is testing a asetek 240mm rad and pump unit. Performence is only very slightly more than the H50...problem seems to be not enough flow rate through the larger rad. I suspect the H50 pump would be faced with the same problem if you were to add-on a 240 mm rad to it...even a low resistance rad.










Opps forgot the link:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...or-really.html


----------



## denn_is

my temps are great for a overclock..


----------



## Maximous

Ive just modded my nq3590. I reccon its the same pump as it is the same developer (Asetek). I have a 120 rad AND a 240 rad on the sameloop and pump. Looking forward to see the results later tonight


----------



## tlxxxsracer

With room temps at about 70F, im idling at 30C







Me like.


----------



## xmisery

Sorry about that, missed it. I didn't happen to save the link/URL where I read it.. but I can try and google search again for it. I want to say I saw it posted on TomsHardware site somewhere, but, I really can't recall. I'll keep you updated when I find it again though. Also, if you hear back from Asetek, please let me know what they say, I'm very curious as well. Although, I'm afraid they might be slightly biased towards their direct product over the one that was outfitted for Corsair. Still, very interested in knowing. thanks!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jalyst* 
Source please? I couldn't find anything that mentioned this.

I'm still wating on responses to questions I've put to NorthQ and Asetek.
I'll let you guys know what I find out...


----------



## kyleax1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
Check this out, After closer review he is testing a asetek 240mm rad and pump unit. Performence is only very slightly more than the H50...problem seems to be not enough flow rate through the larger rad. I suspect the H50 pump would be faced with the same problem if you were to add-on a 240 mm rad to it...even a low resistance rad.









This was tested with the H50 and a 240rad lowered the temps by around 8c, but the pump failed after a few days...however it didn't fail until he tried adding a T-Line. and further mod it.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post7923510


http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/629298-mod-corsair-h50-240mm-radiator-9.html#post7935277


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *denn_is* 
my temps are great for a overclock..









Thats very good









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Maximous* 
Ive just modded my nq3590. I reccon its the same pump as it is the same developer (Asetek). I have a 120 rad AND a 240 rad on the sameloop and pump. Looking forward to see the results later tonight









This sounds very promising, I had to wonder whether sexybastarts pump failed due to manhandling rather than just the extra strain. This is very encouraging, tempting to try my own mod...


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kyleax1* 
This was tested with the H50 and a 240rad lowered the temps by around 8c, but the pump failed after a few days...however it didn't fail until he tried adding a T-Line. and further mod it.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post7923510


http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/629298-mod-corsair-h50-240mm-radiator-9.html#post7935277

The pump "seemed" to fail after he added both the 240 rad and the 120 rad.

The pump is really still working fine, he went on to add a res like mine.
Check the first link in my sig, mid way down.


----------



## moocowman

Can I be added to the list? I just got mine today and it's up and running







Runs 49*c under load with just a regular push setup with the stock fan. Pics will come as soon as I can find my camera.


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
The pump "seemed" to fail after he added both the 240 rad and the 120 rad.

The pump is really still working fine, he went on to add a res like mine.
Check the first link in my sig, mid way down.

yep... I worked it too hard it stopped pumping. I personally think that a large air bubble got stuck in the pump. But yeah the pump isn't strong enough for 360mm worth of radiator.

---

anyways I have a Koolance 120mm radiator on its way to me. I got it used off a diff forum for $6 shipped









We shall see if it helps with temps since its a dual pass (dunno if the h50 rad is though) but still should be a fun little experiment.


----------



## Maximous

Yo ALL!!!

And here is the finished product:

Ran prime for 1.5 hours, the same i ran with the old gear. Same setting: 3.81Ghz @ 1.512v. Same ambient 24c- idle:24c load 41c (old load was 52c). So YES Im damn HAPPY.

Could have done some of the tubing a little different, but what the heck. Im satisfied!!!

I recommend all with the nq3590 to do the same






























Sorry for bad pics


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Maximous*


Yo ALL!!!

And here is the finished product:

Ran prime for 1.5 hours, the same i ran with the old gear. Same setting: 3.81Ghz @ 1.512v. Same ambient 24c- idle:24c load 41c (old load was 52c). So YES Im damn HAPPY.

Could have done some of the tubing a little different, but what the heck. Im satisfied!!!

I recommend all with the nq3590 to do the same






























Sorry for bad pics










the pics look awesome. ive got a few questions for you though. 
Where did you buy the NQ 3950? I wanted one but only the h50 was available. And what were your idle temps before you modified it?


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Maximous*


Yo ALL!!!

And here is the finished product:

Ran prime for 1.5 hours, the same i ran with the old gear. Same setting: 3.81Ghz @ 1.512v. Same ambient 24c- idle:24c load 41c (old load was 52c). So YES Im damn HAPPY.

Could have done some of the tubing a little different, but what the heck. Im satisfied!!!

I recommend all with the nq3590 to do the same






























Sorry for bad pics










Wow, those are some KILLER temps especially with that OC & volts. Rep++. Will be checking to see what NQ & Asetek have to say re: the pump.


----------



## denn_is

Killhouse








Thanks.


----------



## Sethy666

FREE BUMP...









I would encourage everyone thats uses this forum regularly to wander over to;

Quote:



http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...l-up-make.html


And cast your eyes over some very kewl case mods. If you have more than 35 reps points you can vote on your fav.

If you dont have the required rep, you can PM *Pwn Schubie*.

Thanks - your support is appreciated


----------



## WarmongerX

Hi new here and without having to scroll through 350+ pages on this thread, I was hoping someone could throw some advice out regarding the installation of the H50.

I put together a new I7 920 system over the weekend and am using the H50. I have a D0 stepping chip and managed to get to 4.1Ghz with a 196blck at 1.28v. Measuring against what I've seen here and over on the EVGA boards with regards to temps, it seems that maybe I did something wrong on the install of this thing.

My idle temps are 37c which seem fine, yet running Prime95 for over 15 minutes on all 8 threads, I'll hit 79c. I thought that was a bit high so after 24 hours, I cleaned the stock TIM off and put on AS5, but 48 hours later, I'm having the same results. So my question comes around how tight are people screwing the bolts in against the motherboard and also if you've repaced the TIM on the H50, did you use more of your replacement stuff than you normally would with a high end air cooler given that bottom of the H50 isn't really that smooth?

I tightened the screws to the point they wouldn't turn anymore without a significant amount of force and am now thinking that may have been too tight, leading to part of the problem I'm experiencing.

I think this CPU can go a couple hundred Mhz futher, but if I increase the Vcore past 1.30 to get it the temps just soar on Prime95.

I see a fair amount of people using more Vcore to attain the same overclock but with a fair amount less on the temps which is questioning me if I'm doing something wrong.


----------



## CaptnBB

Just figured I would add my updates pictures.

Attachment 140804

Attachment 140805

Attachment 140806

Attachment 140807

Attachment 140808


----------



## Jeffro422

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Maximous* 
Yo ALL!!!

And here is the finished product:

Ran prime for 1.5 hours, the same i ran with the old gear. Same setting: 3.81Ghz @ 1.512v. Same ambient 24c- idle:24c load 41c (old load was 52c). So YES Im damn HAPPY.

Could have done some of the tubing a little different, but what the heck. Im satisfied!!!

I recommend all with the nq3590 to do the same






























Sorry for bad pics









Hopefully the pump won't fail like the other guy, that does seem like a lot of stress to put on THAT pump.


----------



## denn_is

dropped -3c with push/pull exhaust..


----------



## Sethy666

Hi WarmongerX,

Welcome to the forum and our happy-smiley thread









I wont attempt to address your OC questions - its not my forte









The AS5 is showing its age now. Its not a bad TIM but the stuff that was on the pump head is Shin Etsu, is top class. If you are going to do a re-seat - you may what to consider the Shin Etsu or MX 3.

If your worried about the tightness of the screws - loosen them back a smidge and see how that goes. Personally, I tighten so it doesnt turn anymore without significant force.

If those are your temps on OC, then they look okay - a tad high but okay. If they are temps on stock, then we have a problem.

Is your rad set up as exhaust or intake?
What fans are your using?
Are you using a push/pull configuration?

Are you able to show us a pic of your setup? That helps no end with solving issues









Quote:


Originally Posted by *CaptnBB*
Just figured I would add my updates pictures.

Very nice - Mmmmm blue & green... very Romulan


----------



## Maximous

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dude120*


the pics look awesome. ive got a few questions for you though. 
Where did you buy the NQ 3950? I wanted one but only the h50 was available. And what were your idle temps before you modified it?


Thnx man.

I bought it (nq3590) on some Norwegian site called www.datakjeden.no

And for the temps idle im not sure because they dont realy matter to me. Sorry. But if im guessing it was 30-35. Hope this helped


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WarmongerX*


Hi new here and without having to scroll through 350+ pages on this thread, I was hoping someone could throw some advice out regarding the installation of the H50.

I put together a new I7 920 system over the weekend and am using the H50. I have a D0 stepping chip and managed to get to 4.1Ghz with a 196blck at 1.28v. Measuring against what I've seen here and over on the EVGA boards with regards to temps, it seems that maybe I did something wrong on the install of this thing.

My idle temps are 37c which seem fine, yet running Prime95 for over 15 minutes on all 8 threads, I'll hit 79c. I thought that was a bit high so after 24 hours, I cleaned the stock TIM off and put on AS5, but 48 hours later, I'm having the same results. So my question comes around how tight are people screwing the bolts in against the motherboard and also if you've repaced the TIM on the H50, did you use more of your replacement stuff than you normally would with a high end air cooler given that bottom of the H50 isn't really that smooth?


Congrats and welcome to the H50 Club!

I'm actually stress testing right now @ 4.2Ghz, using IBT - "Very High" Stress Level - 20 passes (on pass 18 as I write this) and the temps are 75,72,73,69 and 39,36,38,36 on idle. Your temps seem okay @ 4.1Ghz, but could probably be shaved down a few degrees.

As far as tightening goes, I just screwed it down as tight as it would go without man-handling it. lol The TIM you rubbed off the cooler was actually much better than what you replaced it with. Who knew that this would come stock with Shin Etsu?!







Are you using 2 fans for push/pull? If so, is it setup as intake or exhaust?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Maximous*


Thnx man.

I bought it (nq3590) on some Norwegian site called www.datakjeden.no

And for the temps idle im not sure because they dont realy matter to me. Sorry. But if im guessing it was 30-35. Hope this helped


What were your load temps with the nq3590? Was it significantly different from the H50's?


----------



## WarmongerX

Yeah, sorry to include that. I'm using the push/pull with stock Corsair fan and Antec Tricool. Does the MX 3 have any curing time like AS does? I know the Shin Etsu doesn't from what I've read here already. I'll try loosening them a 1/2 turn at a time and see what that does if anything. I might try reseating at the end of the week with one of the pastes you mentioned if the loosening doesn't help.

Yeah I've had the AS5 for years and it's worked great on past systems including the one I just upgraded from E8600 o/c to 4.3Ghz with idle temps at 35c and load 62c. That's what's led me to think something is off.

Yeah I can probably snap a pic tonight.


----------



## Maximous

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cyclometric*


Wow, those are some KILLER temps especially with that OC & volts. Rep++. Will be checking to see what NQ & Asetek have to say re: the pump.


Hey. Ty man. About the pump: On the H50 isnt it only the cpu fan cable attached to it? Is so u got to remeber on the nq3590 its also a molex cable. If this matters i dont know, but it seems like u interest int his very much so U might figure it out. Let ud know when U do


----------



## Maximous

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


What were your load temps with the nq3590? Was it significantly different from the H50's?


Load temps before modding or load temps not oc? Load temps before modding at 3.81 was 52c, but i dont remember the figures before oc. The sheets are sadly thrown away









Edit: Ive never had a h50 so im not sure what temps U will get of it...


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WarmongerX*


Yeah, sorry to include that. I'm using the push/pull with stock Corsair fan and Antec Tricool. Does the MX 3 have any curing time like AS does? I know the Shin Etsu doesn't from what I've read here already. I'll try loosening them a 1/2 turn at a time and see what that does if anything. I might try reseating at the end of the week with one of the pastes you mentioned if the loosening doesn't help.

Yeah I've had the AS5 for years and it's worked great on past systems including the one I just upgraded from E8600 o/c to 4.3Ghz with idle temps at 35c and load 62c. That's what's led me to think something is off.

Yeah I can probably snap a pic tonight.


Yep - no dramas - we learn by doing









The corsair stock fan is adequate but people here (including me) are finding that even the humble Coolermaster R4 case fan supplies an increased static pressure for the rad. Consider changing out the corsair fan. There are a ton of posts on this subject.

Mx-3 is good to go soon as its applied. You can probably get a 1-2c difference with those TIMS.

Even though there are no 'cure' times for MX-3 or SE, I have noted that after several stress tests, the temps drop slightly.

I suspect with the heat being generated from the stress tests etc that the TIM is 'settling in'. That is, spreading out a tad more and getting in to where is supposed to go.


----------



## WarmongerX

Ahh, good info around the fan. I did pick up a set of the Coolermaster S12 silient fans when I bought my case last Friday. I think that's what theyare, at work now, but I'll check when I get home. Maybe I'll replace that one as well.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WarmongerX*


Ahh, good info around the fan. I did pick up a set of the Coolermaster S12 silient fans when I bought my case last Friday. I think that's what theyare, at work now, but I'll check when I get home. Maybe I'll replace that one as well.


Nah,,, you probably dont want to be using that fan for your push/pull. The RPM & air flow is too low. See specs;

Quote:



http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/prod...roduct_id=2886


Try something with specs like this; (as an example). Im sure someone esle will chime in with a more appropriate suggestion









Quote:



http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/prod...roduct_id=2914


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Maximous*


Thnx man.

I bought it (nq3590) on some Norwegian site called www.datakjeden.no

And for the temps idle im not sure because they dont realy matter to me. Sorry. But if im guessing it was 30-35. Hope this helped


thanks for the quick reply!
I converted the amount a northq 3950 would be into USD. according the currency converter and the results are:
1,374.00 NOK = 232.926 USD








ill pass on it lol, i wish i could get it still though.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

What is the best TIM to apply to the h50, aside from Indigo Xtreme? I remember reading earlier MX-3. Any other suggestions? (sorry for the off topic question). So I can get the best temps when I decide what loop setup to choose


----------



## Killhouse

IC Diamond 7 is great, Shin Etsu comes on the H50 to start with and is also great. There's some more info in the FAQ on the front page.

_Member list updated._


----------



## tlxxxsracer

IC 24carat is 22$ geez.. May get the 7carat.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


What is the best TIM to apply to the h50, aside from Indigo Xtreme? I remember reading earlier MX-3. Any other suggestions? (sorry for the off topic question). So I can get the best temps when I decide what loop setup to choose


GC3-Extreme, MX-3, ICD7, Shin Etsu.


----------



## Capwn

Ive been thinking about replacing the bracket that came with my H50 with the other one they sell for the original H50 that didn't come with AMD mounts. I will of course do tests with each under controlled conditions and let everyone know what difference IF any there is. 








http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...0-AMDBRKT.html

Worth the time and money you think guys?

If your wondering why. Look at the difference between the the orig and the new one. The new one is glorified tin foil . A baby could bend that thing in half.


----------



## dmitt25

Hi Killhouse... been following your build in the casemod logs... lookin sweet!

I bought one of these the other day but since my MB is away for RMA, I have yet to be able to test it out


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Capwn*


Ive been thinking about replacing the bracket that came with my H50 with the other one they sell for the original H50 that didn't come with AMD mounts. I will of course do tests with each under controlled conditions and let everyone know what difference IF any there is. 








http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...0-AMDBRKT.html

Worth the time and money you think guys?

If your wondering why. Look at the difference between the the orig and the new one. The new one is glorified tin foil . A baby could bend that thing in half.


I dont think its really worth it, but thats just my opinion.
what kind of temps are you getting right now? will this really change them, or is this more for the safety of the cpu cooler itself(then i can understand you changing it)


----------



## enkrypt3d

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Capwn*


Ive been thinking about replacing the bracket that came with my H50 with the other one they sell for the original H50 that didn't come with AMD mounts. I will of course do tests with each under controlled conditions and let everyone know what difference IF any there is. 








http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...0-AMDBRKT.html

Worth the time and money you think guys?

If your wondering why. Look at the difference between the the orig and the new one. The new one is glorified tin foil . A baby could bend that thing in half.


What are you talking about? the brackets are fine - not sure what you mean by glorified tin foil? It seems pretty sturdy to me..... just tighten the screws down real good and you should be fine......


----------



## Capwn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *enkrypt3d*


What are you talking about? the brackets are fine - not sure what you mean by glorified tin foil? It seems pretty sturdy to me..... just tighten the screws down real good and you should be fine......










Oh man. You obviously have not tightened your screws enough. In which case I advise you not to. I cracked the little plastic inserts that go into the metal bracket. And for real. Your telling me they couldn't have made these crappy metal brackets any better?? really???? I mean I love my h50 LOOOVE IT. Just recently I'm not so happy with this bracket. .


----------



## enkrypt3d

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Capwn*


Oh man. You obviously have not tightened your screws enough. In which case I advise you not to. I cracked the little plastic inserts that go into the metal bracket. And for real. Your telling me they couldn't have made these crappy metal brackets any better?? really???? I mean I love my h50 LOOOVE IT. Just recently I'm not so happy with this bracket. .


My screws are pretty tight... no issues *knocks on wood*


----------



## jalyst

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Maximous*


Yo ALL!!!

And here is the finished product:

Ran prime for 1.5 hours, the same i ran with the old gear. Same setting: 3.81Ghz @ 1.512v. Same ambient 24c- idle:24c load 41c (old load was 52c). So YES Im damn HAPPY.

Could have done some of the tubing a little different, but what the heck. Im satisfied!!!

I recommend all with the nq3590 to do the same































Sorry for bad pics










That's interesting, a similar mod to the H50 resulted in pump issues for *sexybastard*.

So perhaps the LCLC 240mm's pump has more grunt? 
I guess it would by default as it's for a 240mm system.

I'm still determining if the NQ-3590 and LCLC 240 are exactly the same.
If they are the LCLC 240 might be the better buy, as preliminary checks reveal the NQ-3590 to be pricier.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Maximous*


Load temps before modding at 3.81 was 52c, but i dont remember the figures before oc. The sheets are sadly thrown away








Edit: Ive never had a h50 so im not sure what temps U will get of it...


I don't suppose anyone's seen load temps for a stock H50, with a similar CPU, OC'd to 3.8?


----------



## mr-Charles

. . . Did you use the screw's with "FINE" thread's, or the one's with the "Coarse" thread's???.........reason i ask is these Newer kit's that started to come with the AMD bracket set's came with 2 different type/set's of hold-down screws........[ the one's with the Coarse Threads are the *No-No_one's!!!* Suppose to not use with either of the plastic insert's; and because of the Threaded-matching_Metal_insert's for which are in the backplate bracket's are of "FINE" thread's...] I've heard that Corsair has realize'd and Stop including the Coarse Thread'd screw's for within their kit's now. . . . .{ .... but, i could be wrong and people are still getting both set's of the screw's...







}

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Capwn

Oh I used the right screws man. Trust me.


----------



## A3DSAIL

I'm starting a new build with a new Tt Element S case and some older parts including an EVGA 750i mobo, 9800 GT AKIMBO vid card, and a Q6600 CPU. I decided to use the H50 and knowing that the quad CPU I have puts out some heat, I'm going to try the push/pull configuration on the H50. After some research and knowing I can switch to a different arrangement if this doesn't satisfy me, I am using a Scythe Gentle typhoon D1225C12B4AP-14 122mm on the inside of the radiator blowing to exhaust and another mounted outside the case pulling out. Other fans include the 230mm top exhaust fan, 2 120mm Noctua NF-P12 front fans w/filters and 2 Silenx Ixtrema 60mm exhaust fans located on the case rear next to-and blocking the screws to-the PCI slots. My Corsair 750 PSU also will be pulling cooler air up from the bottom of the case.

In past builds, I've been a proponent of positive case pressure and maintaining smooth and balanced airflow from front to rear. The configuration I've laid out above doesn't adhere to these principles, but blowing air in from the rear of the case per Corsair's recommendation just seem counter-intuitive to me and it also would disturb the smooth airflow from front to rear. I'm hoping that the top big boy fan will pull enough warm air out of the case to help keep my temps down. Any advice on this setup would be appreciated and taken into account. Thanks.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Capwn* 
Oh I used the right screws man. Trust me.

. . . . . OK, cool; BUT ya ended up with crack'd_collar sleeve insert's for the "ear-leg" part of the bracket, eh??? gzzzz, that had to have been a let down for the easy install and all.......sorry's to hear about's such event upon your install







..........i know for me and my install, that i had to like hand-thread each of them through each one of those plastic collar's till they got free with that unthread'd part of the shank of the bolt's.......then when i tightn'd them down evenly, each one of the 4 leg's were like bent downwards, holding the pump_head down tight; But at that point each of the screw's got to where there was no more thread's to turn, and all four pretty much came to a stop/cease to turn any more/further & that's where it is setting now for here........with my idle temp's @ 28* & load on my Prime95 Blend or even Large FFT's = to 49* to 51* depending upon the ambient.......{ showing in my sig's with HWmonitor showing's temp's of min. & max....}

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## mr-Charles

.......Yeah i agree with ya about's the "cheapy" metal ring hold-down, but it does serve it purpose........BUT, i have ordered one of those replacement bracket's from FrozenCPU already,.......like last week, BUT i think this SNOW for the East there is blocking/slowing up my delivery BIG time...[ cuz i am here on the West Coast.]








......only thing i don't like is the picture of makes it look like it is make of some kind of delrin/plastic-nylon material but a bit thicker like the original AMD bracket's thickness of . HOPEFULLY neither one of those 4 leg's of the bracket will "break".....









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## PCPaladin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *A3DSAIL* 
...Any advice on this setup would be appreciated and taken into account. Thanks.

It looks like you will have plenty of fans and airflow, shouldn't have a problem. Most people go with exhaust. I was agonizing over adding more intake fans and came up with this simple test to see if I had enough case airflow:

Load the PC (I used Prime95)
Monitor temps (I used Realtemp and also a graph with Speedfan)
Open the side of the case and put a desktop fan blowing room air directly on radiator or push fan
See if your temps change.

Mine didn't budge a bit, so I figured the case airflow is fine, no sense spending money and time on fan bays and controllers.
Putting more powerful fans on the radiator would be about the only thing that would help. Although I've noticed a couple of posters say they've seen no improvement going from 2K to 3K rpm fans.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Inglewood78* 
Here's my recently modded h50.

Sweet setup.







Welcome to the club.








That GPU cooler looks wicked cool too.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EvoLiTiLE* 
...Also, i am currently running an Ultra Chilltec TEC, will I notice a difference between the two?

I think a H50 is a step down from a TEC.


----------



## Inglewood78

Here's my recently modded h50.



















Push/Pull i7 920 @ 4.0 1.35V @ ~70c Primed


----------



## EvoLiTiLE

Does anyone have the H50 with an Antec 1200? If so, how is yours setup? Do you have pics? I will be receiving mine today at 11am. I am excited to rip my PC apart again. I actually enjoy getting and testing new things. Also, i am currently running an Ultra Chilltec TEC, will I notice a difference between the two? I currently use the push/pull method, and will be doing so with the H50. Just, contemplating how I am going to set it up on the 1200. Thanks for you time.....I will asked to be added if you don't mind, when I post some pics of my build, thanks again.


----------



## Capwn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


.......Yeah i agree with ya about's the "cheapy" metal ring hold-down, but it does serve it purpose........BUT, i have ordered one of those replacement bracket's from FrozenCPU already,.......like last week, BUT i think this SNOW for the East there is blocking/slowing up my delivery BIG time...[ cuz i am here on the West Coast.]








......only thing i don't like is the picture of makes it look like it is make of some kind of delrin/plastic-nylon material but a bit thicker like the original AMD bracket's thickness of . HOPEFULLY neither one of those 4 leg's of the bracket will "break".....









mr-Charles .









.


Yeah I pulled the trigger and ordered one too. . I think it is plastic. Oh well Im sure it will work much better than this other one. Guess well find out tho. TEST RESULTS to COME folks. Now if only I could measure the pressure difference that each bracket provides.


----------



## cyclometric

Hey, guys,

Tomorrow I am putting together my tubing/res mod. For $5, I bought some UV Red Dye from Napa Auto Parts,

Attachment 140890

but really have been trying to decide which of these mixes would be best suited for the H50, and am not sure if corrosion is an issue with the H50 (I know the block surface is copper... is there aluminum or copper in the radiator?) -- if so, I should probably add some Antifreeze as well, or some other anti-corrosive agent (what else can be used to prevent corrosion?)


> A. Distilled water + Biocide (Pt-Nuke-Cu) + UV Dye
> B. Distilled water + Biocide + Anti-Corrosive (antifreeze? Anything else I can use that would be compatible with UV Dye?)
> C. Prepared mixture (i.e. ICE, Feser, etc.)


I'd like to do "A" unless corrosion is a concern... is it?


----------



## denn_is

woohoo. gettin my Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120 mm (Ultra High Speed on fan control) & a Yate Loon CLEAR 120mm Medium Speed LED in 2day..


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *denn_is*


woohoo. gettin my Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120 mm (Ultra High Speed on fan control) & a Yate Loon CLEAR 120mm Medium Speed LED in 2day..










Very nice! I have a similar setup. Bought a couple GT 1850's and a YL Medium Clear/BLUE LED's and even with these fans at full throttle, they are pretty darn quiet as it is. Enjoy your new fans!


----------



## denn_is

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Very nice! I have a similar setup. Bought a couple GT 1850's and a YL Medium Clear/BLUE LED's and even with these fans at full throttle, they are pretty darn quiet as it is. Enjoy your new fans!










Thanks...


----------



## moocowman

Here's my setup










Nothing special and yes, horrible cable management cause I'm lazy and it's hard to do in that case







I am very satisfied with it.


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I cant remember if there is a mix of metals. I *think* its an aluminium rad and a copper block - but not 100% on that at all. As for the coolant, this is what comes in the H50 originally, taken from the corsair FAQ.

Kill, I was researching this to answer my own question posted a while ago re: whether corrosion was a concern or not in deciding what liquid to use in my mod, and found this thread posted by Skorpio, the First H50 Modder:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *skorpio* 
Filled with ethylene glycol and deionized water (antifreeze) to prevent galvanic corrosion (aluminum radiator and copper block:swearing







, as before, but in a different color







.

Assuming he's correct, it confirms what you say above. Copper block + alum rad = potential for corrosion.


----------



## Killhouse

Yep, I looked into this for someone else the other day. It's actually posted on the corsair forums.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cyclometric*


............I'd like to do "A" unless corrosion is a concern... is it?


. . . . . . imho > > > YES, Indeed, corrosion is of a concern when you have those two different mix of "metal's" for within your "loop", [ Aluminum RAD & a Copper CPU-Head/Pump for there ]; and it's bad enough you can't see any of this corrosion, IF it occur's, cuz of this funny "tube-lines" for on this unit from OEM....







.......again, my 2







for help/suggestion for here . . . .

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jalyst*


That's interesting, a similar mod to the H50 resulted in pump issues for *sexybastard*.

So perhaps the LCLC 240mm's pump has more grunt? 
I guess it would by default as it's for a 240mm system.

I'm still determining if the NQ-3590 and LCLC 240 are exactly the same.
If they are the LCLC 240 might be the better buy, as preliminary checks reveal the NQ-3590 to be pricier.

I don't suppose anyone's seen load temps for a stock H50, with a similar CPU, OC'd to 3.8?










My 965 is a C3 version overclocked to 3.8 Ghz with 1.375 V...so not totally the same. My temps with a stock H50 in push/pull with 1600 rpm S-Flex fans and 20 C ambient room temp is 27-28 C Idle and 44 C load (3 hors prime 95 blended test).


----------



## arbalest

Here's a few of my final H50 Mod Pics, *WITH CABLE MANAGEMENT!*









I absolutely wish I would have had the $$ to buy a nicer Corsair HX*** Modular PSU at the time, as you will see what a PAIN IN THE A** it is to clean up all those cables, but well worth it. Temps improved quite a bit, and with that 9800GT (LOVIN' THE PHYSX!) below my already HOT! HD4890, it has allowed not just the CPU to run cooler, but the whole system.

I had originally intended to paint the inside, sleeve the PSU, and everything else, but I'm ready to get rid of this tower and build a newer i7, so I ditched that idea... My next case is going to be completely modified though









*Temps - Q9400 @ 3.6GHz 1.29vCore*

I've been having some issues with stability at 3.8GHz as of late... My Maximus Extreme somehow set my OC to 5.2GHz and Overvolted my chip I think... No idea how it happened. Just set it manually to 475 FSB x8 Multi and at exit bios, it freaked out!







Oh well, it'll get worked out.

*H50 Setup as Exhaust =>* _Ultra Kaze 3k 38mm_*=>* _Shroud_ *=>* _Radiator_ *=>* _Corsair H50 Stock Fan_*=>* _Exhaust Top of Case._

I found that my Kaze Slipstream didn't work as well as a Pull Fan, as the Corsair H50 Fan. Now the setup seems to be quite nice, and quiet, as the Ultra Kaze and my Slipstream are both still connected to the fan controller, as well as the two 240mm HAF932 Silent Fans, which move a LOT of air, but are very quiet. I'm one happy camper.









*Intel Burn Test:*
Minimum = *29c 29c 34c 34c*
Maximum = *53c 53c 53c 53c*

*Prime95:*
Minimum = *29c 29c 34c 34c*
Maximum = *46c 46c 46c 46c*

I think it has turned out pretty darn well! YES, I still have the guide/writeup to finish... I haven't forgotten, just been super super super busy still. Everytime I get a chance to sit down, I get called to do something









I promise it will be done! Sorry about the pics, still taken on my blackberry...

*PICS:*

*Open Pic of my Case...*









*Pic of H50...*









*Another Pic of H50...*









*Pic from Outside...*









*Pseudo Cable Management...*









Thank God for Zipties!


----------



## moocowman

Cable management is for losers..







I kidd. Very nice setup, arbalest.


----------



## pololance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


I think it has turned out pretty darn well! YES, I still have the guide/writeup to finish... I haven't forgotten, just been super super super busy still. Everytime I get a chance to sit down, I get called to do something










Then do it standing up yo!!


----------



## dude120

has anyone used the corsair h50 with a coolermaster cosmos s or other cosmos edition case? im just wondering because putting a shroud or shrouds on the h50 in the case is going to be somewhat difficult. At the moment putting it in push/pull config was difficult because of the curvature of the case and the one of the heatsinks on my mobo.


----------



## Sethy666

: FREE BUMP...

I would encourage everyone thats uses this forum regularly to wander over to;

Quote:

http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...l-up-make.html
And cast your eyes over some very kewl case mods. If you have more than 35 reps points you can vote on your fav.

If you dont have the required rep, you can PM *Pwn Schubie*.

Thanks - your support is appreciated


----------



## TwistedTransistor

Anyone tried using a H50 pump as a block only for CPU?


----------



## Killhouse

Oh thanks for the bump Sethy, if you like acrylic you'll have an eyegasm over at the MOTM competition as linked









Nobody has tried that in this thread yet TwistedTransistor, I cant imagine any problem with it so long as the pump is disconnected. The spinning paddle inside will cause excess drag though (in fact, it would start generating electricity across the normal electrical input).

@dude120, if you use the thread tools at the top of this thread and type the name of the case you'll probably see some pictures spring up. Good luck


----------



## TwistedTransistor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Nobody has tried that in this thread yet TwistedTransistor, I cant imagine any problem with it so long as the pump is disconnected. The spinning paddle inside will cause excess drag though (in fact, it would start generating electricity across the normal electrical input).


What I was thinking is removing the paddle so it doesn't create any obstacles for water to go through the pump.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwistedTransistor*


What I was thinking is removing the paddle so it doesn't create any obstacles for water to go through the pump.


That would require some very intricate modding, nobody has gone that far inside the H50 but rest assured that it will be very hard to get the pump bit out of the block and reroute the tubing..


----------



## TwistedTransistor

I need to find the link where they did disassemble the pump all the way so that I know with what I am dealing with. Anyone got some links since I cant find one.

Found it: Inside the H50 Pump


----------



## Rick Arter

Here is few pics of mine stock on my bench rig. I have since modded it will post more pics when completed.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Capwn*


Ive been thinking about replacing the bracket that came with my H50 with the other one they sell for the original H50 that didn't come with AMD mounts. I will of course do tests with each under controlled conditions and let everyone know what difference IF any there is. 








http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...0-AMDBRKT.html

Worth the time and money you think guys?

If your wondering why. Look at the difference between the the orig and the new one. The new one is glorified tin foil . A baby could bend that thing in half.


wait, wait a min, please.. you read quote of this below:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dodger02WS6*


Actually...

I found that *the original AMD backplate can be used with the AM2/AM3 pump ring *and the "coarse" thread screws, works perfect and you don't have to use the flimsy plastic backplate they include.










 FROM *LINK*..









Here is:









WC loop or H50 PUMP unit can use the OEM AMD (AM2/3) backplate come with motherboard if they (WC loop/ H50 PUMP unit) dont have AM2/3 backplate.


----------



## yellowtoblerone

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwistedTransistor*


I need to find the link where they did disassemble the pump all the way so that I know with what I am dealing with. Anyone got some links since I cant find one.

Found it: Inside the H50 Pump



Awesome awesome avatar. Too bad wenger's too stubborn to buy a good player.


----------



## pfran42

Add me to the club!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pfran42* 
Add me to the club!

Welcome! Dont forget to post a pic of your setup... we looove eye candy


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Oh thanks for the bump Sethy, if you like acrylic you'll have an eyegasm over at the MOTM competition as linked









Nobody has tried that in this thread yet TwistedTransistor, I cant imagine any problem with it so long as the pump is disconnected. The spinning paddle inside will cause excess drag though (in fact, it would start generating electricity across the normal electrical input).

@dude120, if you use the thread tools at the top of this thread and type the name of the case you'll probably see some pictures spring up. Good luck










There were a couple of posts on it but no pictures.


----------



## PCSarge

here we go again, according to the "mods" of the forum my sig is too long... (its because of the code for the club names) and they blame me, hey, i didnt write it, its a copy paste deal...lol


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dude120* 
There were a couple of posts on it but no pictures.









Hmm, if you struggle to fit everything in then you can mount one of the fans outside of the case - If you get my jist.

OT: Intense battle going on in the mod of the month contest, seems to be myself vs CyberDruid at the moment. Check out all the cool mods and cast your votes, you can PM [PWN]Schubie if you dont have 35rep, he takes all votes


----------



## stat1kirl

So what's the best setup so far? I don't want to read through 350+ pages to find the answer. I can see that most people run a spacer and push pull. But what fans should I use and how does it compare to my Cooler Master V8 with Dual fans. Thanks guys!


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stat1kirl*


So what's the best setup so far? I don't want to read through 350+ pages to find the answer. I can see that most people run a spacer and push pull. But what fans should I use and how does it compare to my Cooler Master V8 with Dual fans. Thanks guys!


You should see a much improved difference over the CM V8. As for fans, I'll personally recommend 2 of the GT 1850's in push/pull. Other great 25mm fans are the CM R4's, Scythe Slipstreams and the S-Flexes. Someone will have to recommend the specific models for the Scythe's though.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


You should see a much improved difference over the CM V8. As for fans, I'll personally recommend 2 of the GT 1850's in push/pull. Other great 25mm fans are the CM R4's, Scythe Slipstreams and the S-Flexes. Someone will have to recommend the specific models for the Scythe's though.


I tested a 1200rpm Slipstream and it absolutely sucked. Much of the air it pushed against the rad was coming back out between the tip of the fan blades and the fan body. Sflex 1600rpm was pretty good. Gentle Typhoons 1850rpm are still my favorite... quiet, good performers, great build quality. R4's are the best bang for the buck but they are "cheap". My favorite quiet setup (that still performs very well) is a Kaze Maru 1200rpm pushing (without a shroud) and the GT pulling with a shroud. The only caution is that the KM is 140mm diameter with 120mm mounts and you need to have room for it to fit, since it's quite a bit wider.


----------



## stat1kirl

Sound doesn't make much of a difference. As long as it's under 45db. I just want a good performing setup that will do better than my V8. I plan on getting a I7 920 soon and I heard the V8 doesn't do well with that cpu. So I'm hoping the H50 will perform a lot better and then some. Hoping to have a good amount of headroom for overclocking.


----------



## atakapa

Add me to list. Just finished installing this little beauty, and I love it already. Temps are a few degrees lower across the board than with my old air heat piper, ~4-5 C lower cpu load temp, and cpu, system and gpu are ~3 C lower at idle, even my HDD and Vreg are cooler (well 1 C anomaly maybe







). My install looks much cleaner now, and that makes me smile too.

This self contained unit is perfect for me right now, because I deal with chillers and TECs (among other things) enough at my work to know the difficulties in dealing with advanced cooling measures. Don't want that head ache at home, too. I'll probably stick with this one until I get the itch for a true water setup in a few months







.

Anyway, onto the pics:










Pretty lights, but need better fans later,










Thanks and comments/criticisms are welcomed.


----------



## Killhouse

Hey atakapa, thats a great build there. Welcome to OCN and the H50 club









I love how your pliers match your colour scheme







Love the A900, I moved from the A902.


----------



## atakapa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Hey atakapa, thats a great build there. Welcome to OCN and the H50 club









I love how your pliers match your colour scheme







Love the A900, I moved from the A902.


Unintentional hardware sync.









I've had this 900 for so long, and put so much work into it that I can't seem to move on. Maybe in year or so. Love that custom acrylic job you got, though.


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *atakapa*


Add me to list. Just finished installing this little beauty, and I love it already. Temps are a few degrees lower across the board than with my old air heat piper, ~4-5 C lower cpu load temp, and cpu, system and gpu are ~3 C lower at idle, even my HDD and Vreg are cooler (well 1 C anomaly maybe







). My install looks much cleaner now, and that makes me smile too.

This self contained unit is perfect for me right now, because I deal with chillers and TECs (among other things) enough at my work to know the difficulties in dealing with advanced cooling measures. Don't want that head ache at home, too. I'll probably stick with this one until I get the itch for a true water setup in a few months







.

Anyway, onto the pics:










Pretty lights, but need better fans later,










Thanks and comments/criticisms are welcomed.


I think the Xigi's do quite well on the rad. But I think they can be a little noisy. You might try installing a fan shroud and see if you get any improvement.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *atakapa*


Unintentional hardware sync.









I've had this 900 for so long, and put so much work into it that I can't seem to move on. Maybe in year or so. Love that custom acrylic job you got, though.


Cheers mate







You can vote for it in MOTM, just follow the link in my sig and follow the instructiosn to PM [PWN]Schubie with your vote


----------



## atakapa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dkev*


I think the Xigi's do quite well on the rad. But I think they can be a little noisy. You might try installing a fan shroud and see if you get any improvement.


Trust me, I've already got a 38 mm shroud made up from a old burned fan, but the evga x58 board has a pretty tall Vreg heat sink in the way of the current H50's position.

I'll get there sooner or later, and move it to the front of the case and put the shroud in then. Gotta pace myself; that itch to tinker never goes away.


----------



## dude120

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Hmm, if you struggle to fit everything in then you can mount one of the fans outside of the case - If you get my jist.

OT: Intense battle going on in the mod of the month contest, seems to be myself vs CyberDruid at the moment. Check out all the cool mods and cast your votes, you can PM [PWN]Schubie if you dont have 35rep, he takes all votes









See thats the thing, I did just that and the end of the case is preventing me from putting a shroud + fan there. I have a 3000 RPM mounted on the outside of the case. I'll post pics in a few hours when i get my camera.


----------



## xmisery

Long overdue, but, finally got a camera. lol I'm not the best photographer by any means and my case is a bit dirty at the moment, as I just installed my little air/wind tunnel mod inside the case to help pull in cold air from the front and dump it right into the middle of the case. For now, I've opted to keep my H50 mounted in the rear with push/pull fans as exhaust. I've considered moving the H50 inside my little wind/air tunnel contraption, but, maybe at a later date.

Pics below! Sorry if some were taken sideways and you have to turn your head. lol









For anyone interested. This little tunnel was assembled with the following parts..

(1) Scythe Kama Bay Plus
(1) Gentle Typhoon 1850
(1) Yate Loon 1650 (Blue Led's)
(2) Technofront 42mm Airboxes


----------



## Killhouse

Whoa, nice one xmisery. That rig is daym hot, dont burn yourself


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Whoa, nice one xmisery. That rig is daym hot, dont burn yourself









Thanks dude! Yeah, she's my baby!


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
Long overdue, but, finally got a camera. lol I'm not the best photographer by any means and my case is a bit dirty at the moment, as I just installed my little air/wind tunnel mod inside the case to help pull in cold air from the front and dump it right into the middle of the case. For now, I've opted to keep my H50 mounted in the rear with push/pull fans as exhaust. I've considered moving the H50 inside my little wind/air tunnel contraption, but, maybe at a later date.

Pics below! Sorry if some were taken sideways and you have to turn your head. lol









For anyone interested. This little tunnel was assembled with the following parts..

(1) Scythe Kama Bay Plus
(1) Gentle Typhoon 1850
(1) Yate Loon 1650 (Blue Led's)
(2) Technofront 42mm Airboxes

Nice GT pr0n.


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Long overdue, but, finally got a camera. lol I'm not the best photographer by any means and my case is a bit dirty at the moment, as I just installed my little air/wind tunnel mod inside the case to help pull in cold air from the front and dump it right into the middle of the case. For now, I've opted to keep my H50 mounted in the rear with push/pull fans as exhaust. I've considered moving the H50 inside my little wind/air tunnel contraption, but, maybe at a later date.

Pics below! Sorry if some were taken sideways and you have to turn your head. lol









For anyone interested. This little tunnel was assembled with the following parts..

(1) Scythe Kama Bay Plus
(1) Gentle Typhoon 1850
(1) Yate Loon 1650 (Blue Led's)
(2) Technofront 42mm Airboxes


that looks amazing!
What kind of Temps are you getting?


----------



## 00Smurf

My results so far.

Ai Overclock Tuner [Manual]
CPU Ratio Setting [21.0]
BCLK Frequency [200]
PCIE Frequency [100]
QPI Link Data Rate [Auto]

CPU Voltage Control [Manual]
CPU Voltage [1.28750]
CPU PLL Voltage [1.80]
QPI/DRAM Core Voltage [1.23125]
IOH Voltage [1.20]
IOH PCIE Voltage [Auto]
ICH Voltage [1.20]
ICH PCIE Voltage [Auto]
DRAM Bus Voltage [1.64]

Load-Line Calibration [Enabled]
CPU Differential Amplitude [800mV]
CPU Clock Skew [Delay 300ps]
CPU Spread Spectrum [Disabled]
IOH Clock Skew [Auto]
PCIE Spread Spectrum [Disabled]

C1E Support [Disabled]
Hardware Prefetcher [Enabled]
Adjacent Cache Line Prefetch [Enabled]
Intel(r) Virtualization Tech [Enabled]
CPU TM Function [Enabled]
Execute Disable Bit [Enabled]
Intel(r) HT Technology [Disabled]
Active Processor Cores [All]
A20M [Disabled]
Intel(r) SpeedStep(tm) Tech [Disabled]
Intel(r) C-STATE Tech [Disabled]

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1013325 -validation


----------



## SpykeZ

why do people insist on showing idle temps?


----------



## twistid

I'm having a strange problem, I'm not sure if its H50 or MOBO related...

I just installed my H50 and I turned it on when the computer was sideways and sidepanel/sidefan removed, everything worked fine so I figured time to button her up! I installed the sidepanel along with the 3pin sidefan , put the computer in its normal housing location and turned on the PC. First thing I did was load core-temp and to my horror it was at 60* and rising, I have my emergency cutoff at 65* so it turned off very quickly.

I opened the case back up and assumed I had not tightened it down enough, so I tightened it as much as I could before snapping the little bushings and turned it back on (again without the sidepanel) and it was fine, idling around 40* (oc my 965 to 3600 currently) which is much better than my previous 50* idle. So again I go to install the sidepanel and turn on the computer and again the computer shuts itself off with thermal protection. I'm like ***? So I'm inspecting what the sidepanel could possibly affect, and I see that it does press slightly on the hoses as they bulge out the side a bit in my small antec 300. So I leave the panel off and move the hoses slightly while the computer is turned on and the temps stay the same. I install the sidepanel and they still stay the same (after the computer has been on , this is without the sidefan). This is its current state, and I've been running Prime95 and the highest it's gotten is 52* @ 100%load all 4 cores.

Is it possible having the side fan is pulling to much amp's through the board and causing everything else (including the pump) to slow down causing the heat buildup? This is very strange... I have used the sidefan totally fine with my previous Arctic Cooler 7 and never had a problem. I have the h50 in a push/pull setup with the stock Antec300 rear fan and stock H50 corsair fan.

Any suggestions or opinions would be greatly appreciated! I do not have an external fan controller so I am unable to troubleshoot the mobo itself







If I did have the fan controller I would just hook up every fan to it, and see if the problem persists.

EDIT I forgot to say I have 2 frontpanel fan's 3pin, 1 h50 pump 3pin, 1 corsair rad fan 4pin, and with the sidepanel that makes an extra 1sidefan 3pin... so 6 fans loaded through the mobo.


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
why do people insist on showing idle temps?

okay look at the high reading, instead of the current. This is under 100% cpu load. ran quite a few 3d mark 06 tests, and played world in conflict for 4 hours straight. no problems.










http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm06=13195831


----------



## Killhouse

Verrrry nice temps for an i7 there 00smurf


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
why do people insist on showing idle temps?

Because we can









Seriously, why not? Its a valid baseline. Statistically speaking, you need a minimum and a maximum value to define a valid range.

I dont see a problem really


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *twistid* 
I'm having a strange problem, I'm not sure if its H50 or MOBO related...

You may done this and Ive missed it...

Have you disconnected the fan and installed the side panel?

Have you tried the whole setup in an upright (normal) position?

My first thought was "air bubble" but it would be a constant thing... side panel or not..


----------



## EvoLiTiLE

@ twistid,
I had the same problems, then I went straight into the bios-sytem monitor, and checked my temps, turned my fans all on to high as I normally due (everything was reset during the build process, from being unplugged so long.) and saved, then exited. And walla- the temps were good and actually decreased a little. I guess from when the pumped needed to warm up on the H50. (just a guess) works fine now though. Hope it helps.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *twistid* 
I'm having a strange problem, I'm not sure if its H50 or MOBO related...

I just installed my H50 and I turned it on when the computer was sideways and sidepanel/sidefan removed, everything worked fine so I figured time to button her up! I installed the sidepanel along with the 3pin sidefan , put the computer in its normal housing location and turned on the PC. First thing I did was load core-temp and to my horror it was at 60* and rising, I have my emergency cutoff at 65* so it turned off very quickly.

I opened the case back up and assumed I had not tightened it down enough, so I tightened it as much as I could before snapping the little bushings and turned it back on (again without the sidepanel) and it was fine, idling around 40* (oc my 965 to 3600 currently) which is much better than my previous 50* idle. So again I go to install the sidepanel and turn on the computer and again the computer shuts itself off with thermal protection. I'm like ***? So I'm inspecting what the sidepanel could possibly affect, and I see that it does press slightly on the hoses as they bulge out the side a bit in my small antec 300. So I leave the panel off and move the hoses slightly while the computer is turned on and the temps stay the same. I install the sidepanel and they still stay the same (after the computer has been on , this is without the sidefan). This is its current state, and I've been running Prime95 and the highest it's gotten is 52* @ 100%load all 4 cores.

Is it possible having the side fan is pulling to much amp's through the board and causing everything else (including the pump) to slow down causing the heat buildup? This is very strange... I have used the sidefan totally fine with my previous Arctic Cooler 7 and never had a problem. I have the h50 in a push/pull setup with the stock Antec300 rear fan and stock H50 corsair fan.

Any suggestions or opinions would be greatly appreciated! I do not have an external fan controller so I am unable to troubleshoot the mobo itself







If I did have the fan controller I would just hook up every fan to it, and see if the problem persists.

EDIT I forgot to say I have 2 frontpanel fan's 3pin, 1 h50 pump 3pin, 1 corsair rad fan 4pin, and with the sidepanel that makes an extra 1sidefan 3pin... so 6 fans loaded through the mobo.

Sounds like it's the board trying too hard. This is what you should try.
- Boot your computer with the side off, as you had it running well.
- Installed Speedfan and read the pump RPM (should be around 1400)
- Now plug the side fan while the motherboard is running, theres no problem with this, I do it all the time. See what happens to your pump RPM in speedfan.

My guess is that your pump is completely stalling when you plug the fan is, either through some inbuilt protection on the motherboard to stop delivering power to fans when there is too much plugged in, or some other power problem.

If this is the case then I would try to connect the pump directly to the power supply molex. You always want it at 100% after all.

Good luck, post back.
~Killhouse








MOTM competition - see some awesome mods and place your votes!


----------



## EvoLiTiLE

Okay i am done with my build, and am happy to say, that the H50 runs cooler than my Ultra TEC w/push-pull. It took me a while looked for hours yesterday on people's setups to get a good idea how to set the rad up, and expand on those. Mainly at how different users set it up in a Antec 1200, I did not like most of them, so I created my own set up. Useing ideas from others in the H50 club. Below I have posted some pics, I hope you all like them, as I enjoy seeing pics of other users setups. 
I created a wind-tunnel effect with the extra front fan bracket that comes with the 1200 tower, had to modify it a bit, but it worked perfect and has really helped lower my temps. Not just on the Cpu but every thing, pushing and pulling the air right out of the system. In short, just about a -5c drop on all components. (Mobo, Cpu, SPP, MCP.) I am extatic with the results. 
Next I need to build a server tower to house all my hard drives, you will see the clutter, even though I routed them the best I could. Just need a second sytem for them all, 6 Tera's and climbing (fast). So with out further ado, pics..............

More Pics on next post, Please add me to the list......


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EvoLiTiLE*


@ twistid, 
I had the same problems, then I went straight into the bios-sytem monitor, and checked my temps, turned my fans all on to high as I normally due (everything was reset during the build process, from being unplugged so long.) and saved, then exited. And walla- the temps were good and actually decreased a little. I guess from when the pumped needed to warm up on the H50. (just a guess) works fine now though. Hope it helps.


plug a different fan into the same slot as the side fan and see if it still does it. maybe it is a faulty fan? or a faulty connector. try the side fan on another connector.


----------



## EvoLiTiLE

Pics


----------



## EvoLiTiLE

@ 00Smurf, thanks, but mine works fine now, I appreciate the help, I think it was just the cmos being cleared, once I ran through the bios on initial start it worked just fine.


----------



## EvoLiTiLE

I went ahead and added the H50 sig, hope you don't mind. I have to go to work and babysit drunk people. Security.....Later all
If any, have questions, ask away, won't be till 3am pacific time til I will be able to answer. 
I need to OC this rig now and beat my score, put the H50 to the test.


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Sounds like it's the board trying too hard. This is what you should try.
- Boot your computer with the side off, as you had it running well.
- Installed Speedfan and read the pump RPM (should be around 1400)
- Now plug the side fan while the motherboard is running, theres no problem with this, I do it all the time. See what happens to your pump RPM in speedfan.

My guess is that your pump is completely stalling when you plug the fan is, either through some inbuilt protection on the motherboard to stop delivering power to fans when there is too much plugged in, or some other power problem.

If this is the case then I would try to connect the pump directly to the power supply molex. You always want it at 100% after all.

Good luck, post back.
~Killhouse








MOTM competition - see some awesome mods and place your votes!


As silly as it sounds i hooked up my pump to my fan controller (since they use the same plugs) and it works really well, up the RPM when in intensive work or games and lower when idling and downloading.


----------



## Killhouse

@EvoLiTiLE: Nice rig there, very nice. I love how you mounted the radiator - I'll add your name to the list tomorrow. I'm posting from my phone.

@dude120: No problem with the fan controller idea, that should work great. Im curious to know if you notice a noise level drop from the pump when you undervolt it? It's currently the noisiest thing in my case.


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


@EvoLiTiLE: Nice rig there, very nice. I love how you mounted the radiator - I'll add your name to the list tomorrow. I'm posting from my phone.

@dude120: No problem with the fan controller idea, that should work great. Im curious to know if you notice a noise level drop from the pump when you undervolt it? It's currently the noisiest thing in my case.


I cant really hear it to tell the truth because i have at least 9 other fans in the case. (Most of em are quiet but a few are loud as hell)
Ill unplug most of the other ones and report results. It hasnt seemed to make much of any noise to tell you the truth. As for now, I have a 3000 rpm (120mm) Fan to install on the other side of my radiator.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Nice GT pr0n.

Hah! Thanks!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *dude120* 
that looks amazing!
What kind of Temps are you getting?

Thanks!

So far, temps are pretty decent. I ran Intel Burn Test 2.4 to test stability and to see how well the H50 cools my i7 920 OC'd @ 4.01GHz. Here were my results:

Ambient: 24

Idle: 36,33,35,32

IBT - "High" Stress Test - 20 passes - Core Temps were 61,58,59,56.

Just for overkill, I decided to really push things with a much higher stress test:
IBT - "Very High" Stress Test - 20 passes - Core Temps were 66,64,65,61.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 

So far, temps are pretty decent. I ran Intel Burn Test 2.4 to test stability and to see how well the H50 cools my i7 920 OC'd @ 4.01GHz. Here were my results:

IBT - "High" Stress Test - 20 passes - Core Temps were 61,58,59,56.

Just for overkill, I decided to really push things with a much higher stress test:
IBT - "Very High" Stress Test - 20 passes - Core Temps were 66,64,65,61.

I didnt get a chance to comment on your rig & temps.... sex on a stick bro - very nice!


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
I didnt get a chance to comment on your rig & temps.... sex on a stick bro - very nice!

Thanks Sethy!


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EvoLiTiLE*


Pics


You have a nice case, when I tried a front intake like that, the hot air coming from the rad just caused my system to start thermal throttling, even though CPU temps were just over 70 deg.

Changed back to exhaust, temps were 5-7 deg higher, but no thermal throttle any more









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


@dude120: No problem with the fan controller idea, that should work great. Im curious to know if you notice a noise level drop from the pump when you undervolt it? It's currently the noisiest thing in my case.


That's it, I hate you! (j/k)

With 9 fans, I cant here my pump at all!


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


You have a nice case, when I tried a front intake like that, the hot air coming from the rad just caused my system to start thermal throttling, even though CPU temps were just over 70 deg.

Changed back to exhaust, temps were 5-7 deg higher, but no thermal throttle any more










hmm that's weird. the only intake in my case has the rad over it and my system runs nice and cool... the only time I have ever felt noticeably heated air coming out the rad was after 20min of prime95 small ffts and even then the PC was running fine.


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


hmm that's weird. the only intake in my case has the rad over it and my system runs nice and cool... the only time I have ever felt noticeably heated air coming out the rad was after 20min of prime95 small ffts and even then the PC was running fine.


Just you wait for summer!









I think it is probably some motherboard activation happening, as I can prevent it to throttle, if I turn TM off in the BIOS. Does not seem CPU related.

It could be due to the fact that I dont have real heatsinks on my MOSFETS (I did stick on some ran sinks 'for fun').

I'll try different setups again in the winter, but in my case, under load, there are plenty of hot air coming out of the rad...


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


You have a nice case, when I tried a front intake like that, the hot air coming from the rad just caused my system to start thermal throttling, even though CPU temps were just over 70 deg.

Changed back to exhaust, temps were 5-7 deg higher, but no thermal throttle any more









That's it, I hate you! (j/k)

With 9 fans, I cant here my pump at all!


lol, this is why a Full Tower ATX is a must!
my ambients are ~17c! 
Will upload pics tomorow most likely as soldering the fan wires to the 3 pin connector is taking a bit. (stupid soldering iron is taking forever to heat up)
Also, anyone have advice for a good h50 mod? Im going to see if i can pic up a micro reservoir soon.


----------



## EvoLiTiLE

@leppie
I will be checking on that, thanks for the heads up, right now I have not stressed the system at all, no OC. Just put the H50 in, But the air coming in is very cool, plus there is nothing to block the air and keep it from moving up and out. Thet's why I put the rad all the way up top, I have a giant top exhaust fan to suck the air out, plus the dual rear exhaust fans pulling the air out. The side fan next to the video cards blows cold air in, I know you can't really tell from the pics, but the window is just behind the pc, and is open. Winter time and it keeps the whole area quite cool. The three (3) front fans keep the cold air moving quite well from front to back. My old temps were as followed.

OLD.......CPU: 40-42c, MOBO: 32-33c, SPP: 59c, MCP: 59-60c. (idle)w/Ultra TECw/Push-Pull.
NEW......CPU: 31-33c, MOBO: 29-31c, SPP: 54-55c, MCP: 55c. (idle)w/H50 Push-Pull Mod.

I saw the post before where the user was a little disgusted at people posting idle temps, but that is all I had time for, as I had to go to work. So, as stated before I still need to OC, and stress it, to find my real temps (gains/percentages). I will be doing that shortly when I have time, as I am writing this within 20 min. of getting home from work, at 2:45am. Bed Time. But I will honestly keep an eye on that -leppie- (thermal throttling), and update when tested. As for now, I am quite happy with the results. This is a gaming rig for the most part, but I would like to hit the 4ghz mark, which I have not done. OCer in training, lol. More of a gamer. Thanks........Evo


----------



## denied

I made my H50 with exhaust fans (it's unfortunately the only way).
Now i want to order for pull fan exhaust "Feser/Noiseblocker Triebwerk TK-121 NB-Multiframe" ( http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=26044 ). What would be the best (and quitest ) fan for pushing? Stock (corsair), Gentle, S-flex, etc (anything that performance-pcs have).....

Now i have 2xS-flex (just 1200RPM) and i want something better but still quiet and don't want to oder something too weak or too strong....

I have FAN->shroud->RAD->FAN

Thanks for any advice!!!!!!!!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *denied* 
I made my H50 with exhaust fans (it's unfortunately the only way).
Now i want to order for pull fan exhaust "Feser/Noiseblocker Triebwerk TK-121 NB-Multiframe" ( http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=26044 ). What would be the best (and quitest ) fan for pushing? Stock (corsair), Gentle, S-flex, etc (anything that performance-pcs have).....

Now i have 2xS-flex (just 1200RPM) and i want something better but still quiet and don't want to oder something too weak or too strong....

I have FAN->shroud->RAD->FAN

Thanks for any advice!!!!!!!!
















I would go for the TK-122 1800RPM version, you can control its speed right down to 600RPM and you wont hear it. Thats what I use right now.

To be honest you dont really need a push fan with that thing on there. I have mine in push with no pull fan and I got lower temps than I did when I had two 25mm fans.

See my review Here


----------



## denied

@killhouse
Thanks, that's a new info








Didn't know it's that good


----------



## Killhouse

I wuv it


----------



## masustic

hi all, just finished my new(first)build! got alot of great help reading the posts here. just wanted to say thanks for all the great info.i almost returned my H50 untill i came here! i love it now


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *masustic*


hi all, just finished my new(first)build! got alot of great help reading the posts here. just wanted to say thanks for all the great info.i almost returned my H50 untill i came here! i love it now


Great to hear, and welcome to OCN


----------



## masustic

thanks, like i said it was my first build so there was a learning curve i had to deal with. now that i have it figured out my 965 idles at 28c and hits 45c under 100% load. i didnt get to fancy with it just kept every thing simple and its workin great now. wish now i would of went with a modular psu though! Next time i will know


----------



## mr-Charles

....i just received * . THIS .* = Corsair AMD bracket & backplate: top Ring retainer is of stronger/thicker mold type material, seem's heavy like maybe has metal in there somewhere...idk. . . . but at least it's beefy'r than the Original "tin" like ring retainer, and this one has the 4 long screw's with "Spring" compression hold-down on each of the 4 leg's.....







> > > > BUT, for the back plate that came with = Nice thick METAL type with the 4-thread-cap_stud's for the hold-down screw's; BIG PROBLEM => came with a BEND in the middle ! !? !







!? !?.....THIS i do NOT believe is suppose to be there !!







...{ i can fit 3(ea)dimes for in the bend-gap } .....called back from where i got this from, and they open'd up a few other boxes only to find the same.....







....Look's to be Factory/defect = BAD Qual.Cntrl . . . .







> > > > needless to say, this Bend can NOT be there, for then the screw's would tend to *Strip* it's thread's Or even NOT line up accordingly; SO, i have decided to commence to "Fabricate" this bend to make it flat with my trusty "_*BFH*_" of a tool . .







. . . . . and keep this rather than spend then Return_shipping fee required to send back.....







> > > >
> > > > all in , just wanted to share this and alert other's to watch out for this when you do order/receive such . . . . 
. . . .BUT, IMHO= this IS a better hold-down than the original "tin" ring retainer by far . . .







. . .

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


....i just received * . THIS .* = Corsair AMD bracket & backplate: top Ring retainer is of stronger/thicker mold type material, seem's heavy like maybe has metal in there somewhere...idk. . . . but at least it's beefy'r than the Original "tin" like ring retainer, and this one has the 4 long screw's with "Spring" compression hold-down on each of the 4 leg's.....







> > > > BUT, for the back plate that came with = Nice thick METAL type with the 4-thread-cap_stud's for the hold-down screw's; BIG PROBLEM => came with a BEND in the middle ! !? !







!? !?.....THIS i do NOT believe is suppose to be there !!







...{ i can fit 3(ea)dimes for in the bend-gap } .....called back from where i got this from, and they open'd up a few other boxes only to find the same.....







....Look's to be Factory/defect = BAD Qual.Cntrl . . . .







> > > > needless to say, this Bend can NOT be there, for then the screw's would tend to *Strip* it's thread's Or even NOT line up accordingly; SO, i have decided to commence to "Fabricate" this bend to make it flat with my trusty "_*BFH*_" of a tool . .







. . . . . and keep this rather than spend then Return_shipping fee required to send back.....







> > > >
> > > > all in , just wanted to share this and alert other's to watch out for this when you do order/receive such . . . . 
. . . .BUT, IMHO= this IS a better hold-down than the original "tin" ring retainer by far . . .







. . .

mr-Charles .









.












Spaces make things a LOT easier to read lol


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*


Spaces make things a LOT easier to read lol



. . . . . . LOLOLOlolololLOLOLOLololol..........







. . . .







. . .{ git a BIGGer screen then . .







. . }

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *twistid*


I'm having a strange problem, I'm not sure if its H50 or MOBO related...

I just installed my H50 and I turned it on when the computer was sideways and sidepanel/sidefan removed, everything worked fine so I figured time to button her up! I installed the sidepanel along with the 3pin sidefan , put the computer in its normal housing location and turned on the PC. First thing I did was load core-temp and to my horror it was at 60* and rising, I have my emergency cutoff at 65* so it turned off very quickly.

I opened the case back up and assumed I had not tightened it down enough, so I tightened it as much as I could before snapping the little bushings and turned it back on (again without the sidepanel) and it was fine, idling around 40* (oc my 965 to 3600 currently) which is much better than my previous 50* idle. So again I go to install the sidepanel and turn on the computer and again the computer shuts itself off with thermal protection. I'm like ***? So I'm inspecting what the sidepanel could possibly affect, and I see that it does press slightly on the hoses as they bulge out the side a bit in my small antec 300. So I leave the panel off and move the hoses slightly while the computer is turned on and the temps stay the same. I install the sidepanel and they still stay the same (after the computer has been on , this is without the sidefan). This is its current state, and I've been running Prime95 and the highest it's gotten is 52* @ 100%load all 4 cores.

Is it possible having the side fan is pulling to much amp's through the board and causing everything else (including the pump) to slow down causing the heat buildup? This is very strange... I have used the sidefan totally fine with my previous Arctic Cooler 7 and never had a problem. I have the h50 in a push/pull setup with the stock Antec300 rear fan and stock H50 corsair fan.

Any suggestions or opinions would be greatly appreciated! I do not have an external fan controller so I am unable to troubleshoot the mobo itself







If I did have the fan controller I would just hook up every fan to it, and see if the problem persists.

EDIT I forgot to say I have 2 frontpanel fan's 3pin, 1 h50 pump 3pin, 1 corsair rad fan 4pin, and with the sidepanel that makes an extra 1sidefan 3pin... so 6 fans loaded through the mobo.



Dude that is still wayyy too hot compared to my simple cheap air cooled(with a standard atx case), my 965 is @ 4.01Ghz and my idle is between 29c - 32c / maxload 100% 52c (That is without turning on the air conditioner in the room - I live in Puerto Rico which is Hot, not cold climate) I'm pretty sure you have something wrong in your settings maybe overvolting... no clue but even if I had the Original amd stock cooling (@ 3.4Ghz stock) I had between 37c idle.

Anyways my overclock is 200 x 20 (4.01Ghz) and 1.45v on CPU, make sure you have something close to that, already if you use x21 you get 4.20Ghz increase a bit more voltage. As of my current cooling is a Zalman CNPS9700 110mm + 1 x 120mm + 5 x 80mm

I'll explain how I have it: In the Back is just 1 x 80mm (Air Out), Top 1 x 80mm (Air In), Front 1 x 80mm (Air In - infront of the hard drives), I added a floating 1 x 120mm Behind my DVD-RW drive pushing Air infront of the Zalman, and on my Side Panel 2 x 80mm (1 Air In on the Zalman & 2nd Air In on my GFX Card)

My ventilation set up its supposed to be wrong but it works perfectly as of cooling to my system.

Now since I decided to SoftMod my current case(I'll later upgrade to the Antec 1200), since I do not have any mounting fitting anywhere for a 120mm(that is why I mentioned *floating 120mm inside my case - ghetto funny mounting) Anyways I'm going to finally use the H50 tonight after making my *SoftMod to my case(I'm going to place it in my Front Above the Optical Drive - since its the only place it fits as in space area wise). I will test 1st removing my Sidepanel Fans & the floating 120mm to see how the temps are.. then test with all the fans inside to see the difference all my air cooling + H50 (Panaflow *Push > Shroud > Rad > Corsair fan *Pull). I'll post pics tomorrow when its done.

Hopefully it works if not.. crap I would need to spend $$$ to buy the new case.


----------



## kev_b

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


....i just received *. THIS .* = Corsair AMD bracket & backplate: top Ring retainer is of stronger/thicker mold type material, seem's heavy like maybe has metal in there somewhere...idk. . . . but at least it's beefy'r than the Original "tin" like ring retainer, and this one has the 4 long screw's with "Spring" compression hold-down on each of the 4 leg's.....







> > > > BUT, for the back plate that came with = Nice thick METAL type with the 4-thread-cap_stud's for the hold-down screw's; BIG PROBLEM => came with a BEND in the middle ! !? !







!? !?.....THIS i do NOT believe is suppose to be there !!








...{ i can fit 3(ea)dimes for in the bend-gap } .....called back from where i got this from, and they open'd up a few other boxes only to find the same.....







....Look's to be Factory/defect = BAD Qual.Cntrl . . . .







> > > > needless to say, this Bend can NOT be there, for then the screw's would tend to *Strip* it's thread's Or even NOT line up accordingly; SO, i have decided to commence to "Fabricate" this bend to make it flat with my trusty "_*BFH*_" of a tool . .







. . . . . and keep this rather than spend then Return_shipping fee required to send back.....







> > > >
> > > > all in , just wanted to share this and alert other's to watch out for this when you do order/receive such . . . . 
. . . .BUT, IMHO= this IS a better hold-down than the original "tin" ring retainer by far . . .







. . .

mr-Charles .









.


I have 2 of these hold downs and both are ok, the back plate is just a normal AMD back plate if you have one laying around.


----------



## sepheroth003

Add me please. Picked this up last week to pair with my new Q9650. Just started overclocking, 3.6ghz stock volts at 58C on Prime 95


----------



## rmp459

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


hey, I'll join. 





































everyone who joins this thread should also join the water cooling club in my sig. 


This is one of the most beautiful things that i have recently laid eyes on.


----------



## Killhouse

_Updated member list_

Kevin has awesome skills with cable sleeving, such a nice case to work with too.


----------



## CaptnBB

Well, I made an order today(2 actually). Should be arriving in a few days. 
Includes:
Swiftech MCR320 Triple Radiator (go big or go home!)
2x Bitspower 90 G1/4 fittings
2x Bitspower 1/4ID Compression fittings
A few other toys to make my rig more custom.


----------



## Killhouse

Woo another attempt at a bigger radiator, looking forward to this captnBB!


----------



## masustic

has anyone had problems with there pump not running full speed? anyone know what speed pump should run at??? thanks


----------



## rabbitdriver

My pump was barely running also, after some unnecessary fiddling with the fans and bracket I found the " Fan Boost " option in my bios and enabled it and it fixed it for me.


----------



## CaptnBB

1450-1480rpm is the pump speed.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kev_b*


I have 2 of these hold downs and both are ok, the back plate is just a normal AMD back plate if you have one laying around.


.........i half to Disagree with you on these replacement back plates being of the same as a "stock" one. They ARE thicker than a regular AMD back plate; Regular back plates have thread'd corner_holes for the hold-down screw's, versus the replacement back plate has thread'd-stud_type, ( aka like mthrbrd stand off's ), for each corner to connect with the hold-down screw's w/spring_compression on each corner for the H50 Head_RING_ hold-down. 
So, i take it from you stating that this replacement back plate is SUPPOSE to be FLAT? ! ? ! ? ......very well, i will have proceed to make this one FLAT; thnx for that verification . . .

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## masustic

thanks! the bios had my pump turned down thinking it was a fan. disabled smart fan control and now its running 1450 or so! cooled my idle temp a little. guess it wouldnt help my load temp cuz the bios would of increased speed with more heat?


----------



## CaptnBB

That would depend how much heat the cpu was making and what the settings were in the bios. May have increased the pump speed a bit might not have. Test it to find out.


----------



## masustic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CaptnBB* 
That would depend how much heat the cpu was making and what the settings were in the bios. May have increased the pump speed a bit might not have. Test it to find out.









didnt change load temps much but dropped idle temp by 5c


----------



## CaptnBB

nice, any drop in temp is a good drop.


----------



## sexybastard

does anyone know if the H50 stock rad is single or dual pass?

I got my koolance 120mm rad today that is dual pass and slightly thicker and larger then the stock h50 rad so I am excited to test it out. Also made a trip to Microcenter and picked up some more 1/4inch danger den barbs and also found a bottle of clear UV dye for 38cents (clearanced from $9!). I am excited to test it out but I am in DC and my PC is in Richmond so gonna have to wait till Monday/Tuesday to get my hands dirty.

I am hoping for a 2-3c drop in load temps. Maybe even try stacking both rads together for max gains









edit: here are some pics of the new rad. I keeping LOLing at how small the 1/4" barbs looking compared to the 3/8".


----------



## Rains

Just bought this







Now all I need is to build a Phenom system to go with it!


----------



## CaptnBB

Quote:



does anyone know if the H50 stock rad is single or dual pass?


The stock H50 rad is single row, dual pass.

Single pass rads have the inlet and outlet on the opposite ends of the rad. Eg. The water passes from the bottom left of the rad through all the tubes at once and out the outlet on the top right of the rad. Dual pass is where the water comes in the bottom left travels up the rad to the top where it makes a "U" turn and travels back down the other half of the rad to the outlet on the bottom right.


----------



## EvoLiTiLE

@Killhouse, 
how do you keep up with this man, Hat's off to you. By the way I have something speacil to tell all of yall, next week if it's g'ed. I am keeping my fingers crossed.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EvoLiTiLE* 
@Killhouse,
how do you keep up with this man, Hat's off to you. By the way I have something speacil to tell all of yall, next week if it's g'ed. I am keeping my fingers crossed.

It's not easy!







I have something like 2000 emails from OCN due to email subscription to this thread...


----------



## EvoLiTiLE

Okay, you pulled it out of me, Television. 1st clue.


----------



## flightsimnerd

how do these things work with the i7 860? Any results?


----------



## Killhouse

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8211583

Some guy asked the same thing and didnt get a solid answer, but it looks like the h50 will serve you well, even if you overclock.

You might find more using the search tool on this thread


----------



## sendblink23

Okay finally I set upped the H50, sure had a huge hassle getting it inside my crappy case. I had to invent for placing it inside since I do not have any 120mm mounting areas.

Here are the pics of my really ugly set up:


































I still need to invent the frame cover on the front of my case since the alteration of adding the H50 to the case

Testing temps with Prime95 on Blend (2hrs) / Air Conditioner On & Off

Overclocked @ 4.01Ghz (200 x 20 - 1.45v) - C'n'Q off

*Air Conditioner Off*
idle @ 31c - 33c
Max load @ 47c - 49c

*Air Conditioner On*
idle @ 27c - 30c
Max load @ 44c - 47c

Current cooling
H50 Push(Corsair)>Rad>Pull(Panaflow)
3 x 80mm
1 x 120mm

Its extremely quiet compared to the Air Cooling I had: Zalman CNPS9700 110mm + 1 x 120mm + 5 x 80mm
Only difference the cooling before had similar temps on idle but on Max load it was higher @ 52c, and I had 2 extra 80mm fans that were on the side panel(they were loud as heck), this time I cannot use them because they were both 3 pins & the Fans for the H50 Push/Pull used all my 3 pins of my board.

Soon (need to save $$$) I'll upgrade adding 2 Shrouds, Antec 1200, PSU Corsair 1000w & gfx card(not sure yet to what)

I'm proud of the H50


----------



## Killhouse

Very nice temps there, _added_.

You should really attack that case with some cable ties xD


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Very nice temps there, _added_.

You should really attack that case with some cable ties xD

I used those cable ties to manage hanging the *H50 in the Optical Drive area xD

Hopefully in a bit I'll start organizing all that mess of cables, I have the Corsair 120mm as Push(the power cable is too short, but realized the Zalman fanmate 2 is an Extender of that cable) so... now I want to exchange and place the Panaflow as Push and having the Corsair as Pull using the Zalmans Fanmate 2... just to see if there is any cooling improvement.


----------



## masustic

a few pics of my rig with my H50. nothing fancy but it was my first build! since this pic ive worked on my cable management and added a second 5770


----------



## PCSarge

well, i've officially added 5 red LED cooler master R4's to my case, 4 as intake, 1 as top exhaust
will be changing the noisy ones on my H50 next week to a few more R4's

heres some crappy pics in a near-dark room for you to drool over xD


----------



## Killhouse

*drooling right on cue*

Nice fans, something about red LEDs is cool


----------



## PCSarge

well i figured the 230mm in the front was red, so id go with it, my case will be glowing red so badly soon xD 3 more red LED R4's next week, along with a fan controller for the ones on the H50 (for noise reduction of course) and the third is for bottom intake mount


----------



## Killhouse

That thing must sound like a helicopter :S


----------



## PCSarge

nope, the fans barely make any noise, the ones on my H50 are a bit loud, all i hear is air moving from the R4's lol thats because that front mount fan controller, is whats helping the noise issue







at about the 90% mark air moves, but the R4's generate no noise, the loudest fan that i hear on its own atm in my case, is the NB heatsink fan from vantec,but thats probably because it runs at 5k rpms (tiny loud fan, go figure) i'm buying an LCD fan controller w/ temp probes, so it auto adjusts the speed as the rad heats up


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *flightsimnerd* 
how do these things work with the i7 860? Any results?

My H50 is good till 3.8 in summer. Hopefully winter will make my life easier.

For now I downclocked my OC to 3.5 as I can run that still at 1.219v (vs 1.3 needed for 3.8).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
I used those cable ties to manage hanging the *H50 in the Optical Drive area xD

You can easily mod an old CDROM/DVDROM drive casing for a RAD/fan mounting.

I posted some pics a while back.


----------



## 00Smurf

Go h50...


----------



## mike.dp.05

Hi. I just oced my i7 920 to 3.6 using h50. oced good?

these are my settings:

bclk: 183
cpu multi: 20x
cpu vcore: 1.20(bios), 1.184(cpu-z)
dram voltage: 1.5v (rated voltage of pi series 1600)

all other settings on auto.

ran stable for 4 hrs of prime95 and 1hr of auto on occt.

1. asus turboV registered qpi/dram of 1.25000 ... - is this ok? or should it be lower?
2. cpu pll left auto - is this ok too? or should be upped quite a bit?
3. i'm having a max temp of 70,69,70,69 on coretemp after all stress test. ambient temp=29-30 degrees - are these good temps?
4. dram settings were on auto and it won't automatically enter the products advertised settings, what should i do?
5. last question, is there a way i could lower vcore while maintaning stability?
---> like playing with qpi/dram, cpu pll, ioh, ich?

thanks!


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *flightsimnerd* 
how do these things work with the i7 860? Any results?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
My H50 is good till 3.8 in summer. Hopefully winter will make my life easier.

I can second this. I can push it up to about 4.1Ghz before the temps get just too much for me to consider acceptable. 3.850Ghz is what I've settled on for a 24/7 OC.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mike.dp.05* 
Hi. I just oced my i7 920 to 3.6 using h50. oced good?

these are my settings:

bclk: 183
cpu multi: 20x
cpu vcore: 1.20(bios), 1.184(cpu-z)
dram voltage: 1.5v (rated voltage of pi series 1600)

all other settings on auto.

ran stable for 4 hrs of prime95 and 1hr of auto on occt.

1. asus turboV registered qpi/dram of 1.25000 ... - is this ok? or should it be lower?
2. cpu pll left auto - is this ok too? or should be upped quite a bit?
3. i'm having a max temp of 70,69,70,69 on coretemp after all stress test. ambient temp=29-30 degrees - are these good temps?
4. dram settings were on auto and it won't automatically enter the products advertised settings, what should i do?
5. last question, is there a way i could lower vcore while maintaning stability?
---> like playing with qpi/dram, cpu pll, ioh, ich?

thanks!

I bet you can get better temps than that. I'd like to try and get you into the low to mid 50's for an i7 920 @ 3.6GHz.

These are the settings I used on my Asus board when I OC'd it @ 3.6. You might want to give these a try and see how you do.

Ai Overclock Tuner [Manual]
CPU Ratio Setting [21.0]
BCLK Frequency [172]
PCIE Frequency [100]
QPI Link Data Rate [Auto]

CPU Voltage Control [Manual]
CPU Voltage [1.0625]
CPU PLL Voltage [1.80]
QPI/DRAM Core Voltage [1.20000]
IOH Voltage [1.20]
IOH PCIE Voltage [Auto]
ICH Voltage [1.30]
ICH PCIE Voltage [Auto]
DRAM Bus Voltage [1.64]

Load-Line Calibration [Enabled]
CPU Differential Amplitude [800mV]
CPU Clock Skew [Delay 300ps]
CPU Spread Spectrum [Disabled]
IOH Clock Skew [Auto]
PCIE Spread Spectrum [Disabled]

C1E Support [Disabled]
Hardware Prefetcher [Enabled]
Adjacent Cache Line Prefetch [Enabled]
Intel(r) Virtualization Tech [Enabled]
CPU TM Function [Enabled]
Execute Disable Bit [Enabled]
Intel(r) HT Technology [Disabled]
Active Processor Cores [All]
A20M [Disabled]
Intel(r) SpeedStep(tm) Tech [Disabled]
Intel(r) C-STATE Tech [Disabled]


----------



## mike.dp.05

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
I bet you can get better temps than that. I'd like to try and get you into the low to mid 50's for an i7 920 @ 3.6GHz.

These are the settings I used on my Asus board when I OC'd it @ 3.6. You might want to give these a try and see how you do.

Ai Overclock Tuner [Manual]
CPU Ratio Setting [21.0]
BCLK Frequency [172]
PCIE Frequency [100]
QPI Link Data Rate [Auto]

CPU Voltage Control [Manual]
CPU Voltage [1.0625]
CPU PLL Voltage [1.80]
QPI/DRAM Core Voltage [1.20000]
IOH Voltage [1.20]
IOH PCIE Voltage [Auto]
ICH Voltage [1.30]
ICH PCIE Voltage [Auto]
DRAM Bus Voltage [1.64]

Load-Line Calibration [Enabled]
CPU Differential Amplitude [800mV]
CPU Clock Skew [Delay 300ps]
CPU Spread Spectrum [Disabled]
IOH Clock Skew [Auto]
PCIE Spread Spectrum [Disabled]

C1E Support [Disabled]
Hardware Prefetcher [Enabled]
Adjacent Cache Line Prefetch [Enabled]
Intel(r) Virtualization Tech [Enabled]
CPU TM Function [Enabled]
Execute Disable Bit [Enabled]
Intel(r) HT Technology [Disabled]
Active Processor Cores [All]
A20M [Disabled]
Intel(r) SpeedStep(tm) Tech [Disabled]
Intel(r) C-STATE Tech [Disabled]

Thanks for the help! glad for it!

I'm really new to ocing i7 920. i'm afraid of playing with the settings. is it safe to go with the settings you just posted?

1. with the ich voltage of 1.3?
2. i disabled turbo mode, can i get 21x multiplier even without turbo mode?
3. my ram is rated at 1.5v, is it ok to raise it to 1.64? link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231335
4. should i really disable ht?
5. last, is it safe playing with the differential amplitude, cpu clock skew?


----------



## Philippkthx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *masustic* 
a few pics of my rig with my H50. nothing fancy but it was my first build! since this pic ive worked on my cable management and added a second 5770

Picked up one of these last night at my local bestbuy but haven't installed it yet since I'm waiting for my new case to arrive. Oh hey I have that same exact mother board and its my first build too!


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mike.dp.05* 
Thanks for the help! glad for it!

I'm really new to ocing i7 920. i'm afraid of playing with the settings. is it safe to go with the settings you just posted?

1. with the ich voltage of 1.3?
2. i disabled turbo mode, can i get 21x multiplier even without turbo mode?
3. my ram is rated at 1.5v, is it ok to raise it to 1.64? link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231335
4. should i really disable ht?
5. last, is it safe playing with the differential amplitude, cpu clock skew?

Yep, you should be good with those settings. I tried to find the lowest voltage settings for that OC. If anything, you might have to bump it up a little higher, depending on how good of a chip you got. (each chip is slightly different)

1. Yep, dont go any higher than 1.3
2. 21x I believe automatically runs it in Turbo mode.
3. If your ram is rated at 1.5, drop it to that level or "Auto".
4. When finding your stable OC, I temporarily disable HT. Re-enable it once you are stable.
5. Yep, I've only went as high as 1000mV and 300ps. I've seen others too, seems pretty safe.

Also, FYI - Taken from one of the threads on this forum.
---
Q: What are safe voltages?
A: According to intel or common knowledge the following are the safe air temperatures:

Vcore: ~1.4
qpi/uncore (VTT): 1.35
PLL: 1.88
Vdimm:~1.65 (Some will say that you are safe within .5 of your qpi/uncore allowing for a max of 1.85 on vdimm. See the link to the xtreme systems forum below on this subject for a long thread).
IOH: Less than 1.3
ICH: Less than 1.3
---


----------



## mike.dp.05

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Yep, you should be good with those settings. If your ram is rated at 1.5, drop it to that level or "Auto". I tried to find the lowest voltage settings for that OC. If anything, you might have to bump it up a little higher.

Also, FYI - Taken from one of the threads on this forum.
---
Q: What are safe voltages?
A: According to intel or common knowledge the following are the safe air temperatures:

Vcore: ~1.4
qpi/uncore (VTT): 1.35
PLL: 1.88
Vdimm:~1.65 (Some will say that you are safe within .5 of your qpi/uncore allowing for a max of 1.85 on vdimm. See the link to the xtreme systems forum below on this subject for a long thread).
IOH: Less than 1.3
ICH: Less than 1.3
---


what about turning ht off? i read from another site that 3.6 oc is the best in a performance/power consumption. going to 3.8/4.0 has a big leap in power consumption. is it good to just stay with 3.6?

how about my temps of 66-68 with ht on? is it good enough with ht on? ambient of 28-29...


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mike.dp.05*


what about turning ht off? i read from another site that 3.6 oc is the best in a performance/power consumption. going to 3.8/4.0 has a big leap in power consumption. is it good to just stay with 3.6?

how about my temps of 66-68 with ht on? is it good enough with ht on? ambient of 28-29...


I updated my post, hopefully that helped answer some of the other questions. With an ambient of 28-29c, you should be in the high 50's to low 60's. Lowering your vcore will probably help you out with this a bit. Yes, 3.6 is probably the best performance/power consumption ratio for this chip. It really just depends on what you want out of it personally. Staying at 3.6 would be fine, and plenty of processing power!


----------



## mike.dp.05

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


I updated my post, hopefully that helped answer some of the other questions. With an ambient of 28-29c, you should be in the high 50's to low 60's. Lowering your vcore will probably help you out with this a bit. Yes, 3.6 is probably the best performance/power consumption ratio for this chip. It really just depends on what you want out of it personally. Staying at 3.6 would be fine, and plenty of processing power!










i thought of going with 4.0 ghz with ht off. can you give me settings please? and also, with 20x multiplier. is there a huge drawback with turning ht off? thanks!


----------



## fluxc0d3r

Do these temps look right for a i5 750 at 4.1ghz on 1.36V using a H50 with a single 1850rpm Scythe GT fan?


----------



## mr-Charles

...has this been stress test'd for Stability ? ? ? NICE -low-CPU_voltage for showing . . .









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## masustic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Philippkthx*


Picked up one of these last night at my local bestbuy but haven't installed it yet since I'm waiting for my new case to arrive. Oh hey I have that same exact mother board and its my first build too!










i picked mine up a best buy also. i like the motherboard, everything went pretty easy for me. hopefully it goes as well for you. all i can say is take youre time


----------



## krs1

you can add me to the list please! got mine as an intake on the back of my haf 922!


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mike.dp.05* 
i thought of going with 4.0 ghz with ht off. can you give me settings please? and also, with 20x multiplier. is there a huge drawback with turning ht off? thanks!

I have settings I posted in a different thread here which might be of interest to you. As far as using the 20x multiplier, it's much easier to OC this chip using 21x. Turning HT on doesn't have any huge drawbacks that I've encountered, just that it will raise your core temps by about 2c per core. That, and there is not a lot of software out right now that will take advantage of all of the cores.


----------



## bgaviator

I am building a HTPC and have an Apevia X-master case waiting to go....however, I am not sure if I will be able to use the Corsair H50 in it has it appears this case only has 120mm fan ports on the left and right side, and not in the back. Can I mount the fan on the side, or will there be no room with the processor?


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

Hey hey! Picked up and installed mine today! Could you add me as well?


----------



## bearlout

Here is mine............


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fluxc0d3r*


Do these temps look right for a i5 750 at 4.1ghz on 1.36V using a H50 with a single 1850rpm Scythe GT fan? 










Yup they look good. Nice job!


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *00Smurf*


Go h50...











I guess that's good? I have my own set of cooling standards. I would be running 3 triple rads, 1/4" tubing and a commercial rated pump to bring those temps down. I just refuse to have a CPU, any CPU operate at those temps. Not criticizing your set up. So I apologize if it comes across that way.


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fluxc0d3r*


Do these temps look right for a i5 750 at 4.1ghz on 1.36V using a H50 with a single 1850rpm Scythe GT fan? 










Those are pretty good temps especially with that kind of overclock.
If you put that in push pull with some shrouds your idle temps should slip below ~29c and your max should get to roughly ~49-50c.


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dkev*


I guess that's good? I have my own set of cooling standards. I would be running 3 triple rads, 1/4" tubing and a commercial rated pump to bring those temps down. I just refuse to have a CPU, any CPU operate at those temps. Not criticizing your set up. So I apologize if it comes across that way.


those are very impressive temps for an i7 920 at 4.4ghz. I don't think you understand just how hot these run at full bore.

People with triple 120mm rads are in the mid 60's with an i7 at 4.4ghz and are very happy with those results (as they should be).

Personally from what I have seen these new AMD chips are very cool running so what temps you are used to have to be thrown out the window when dealping with 1336.


----------



## cyclometric

Hey, guys, I'm in a bit of a dilemma and I'm hoping you can give me some thoughts as to what I should do.

I have been preparing to do the Tubing & Res mod, and today the last of the necessary parts arrived. Yet for some reason, yesterday I was browsing the Microcenter site and saw a Danger Den 4101 WC Kit, Open Box, for $87 (retails for $222.95). So I thought, why don't I just go for it, and drove there & back to pick it up (90 minute drive, yeah there went part of the savings...)

Turns out the box was missing some of the items, like fittings for the rad and for the reservoir (which also wasn't there). But it did have the very excellent pump Laing D5 fixed), fat 1/2" ID Tygon tubing, brand new Black Ice Xtreme 2 pass rad, and the TDX CPU Block (and, oddly enough, a used Swiftech MCR120-QP RES, a 120 rad with a small built-in res).

Needless to say, I bought it. I already have a small bay res anyway, and pretty much need to put in a T-Line because its a tricky one to fill anyway. So I've figured to get the full setup going, I'd need to lay out another $35 or so on fittings and perhaps a rad mount. That would mean abandoning the H50 altogether, hopefully selling it as a pre-modded unit, with extras, so it wouldn't be a total loss (wish wish).

Or, I still have time to take the "kit" as is, back for a refund, in which case I would go ahead with the Corsair mod.

But then I look at these side by side...

Attachment 141628 Attachment 141629

Thing is, every time I consider taking it back, I look at the 1/2" ID Tygon tubing and the powerful pump, and then I look overat the puny H50 pump/block with its two 1/4" ID tubing already attached, hanging like a dead butterfly's antennae, and I don't know what to do! Look at them side by side, and tell me what you think I should do!


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


those are very impressive temps for an i7 920 at 4.4ghz. I don't think you understand just how hot these run at full bore.

People with triple 120mm rads are in the mid 60's with an i7 at 4.4ghz and are very happy with those results (as they should be).

Personally from what I have seen these new AMD chips are very cool running so what temps you are used to have to be thrown out the window when dealping with 1336.


Na you miss understand. The more heat the CPU generates, the more surface area you need to get rid of it. I don't mean 1 triple rad. I mean 3 triple rads. I know the I7's run hot, but that doesn't mean you can't cool it to reasonable temps. Mid 60's isn't reasonable. Not to me. I can assure you with the right water cooled set up, I can hold the I7 in the 40's. The trick is to get your water supply as close to ambient as possible then increase your tubing size until it can properly handle the wattage load.


----------



## denied

What are the drawbacks of HT? I disabled it and i have 15-20C lower temperature....I guess i don't need it for games and multimedia, or?
With HT i had around 77C and without it just above 60C...

I have i7 920 C0 on [email protected], whats funny before XMP profile by default put it on 1.325V and temperatures were the same...


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cyclometric*


Hey, guys, I'm in a bit of a dilemma and I'm hoping you can give me some thoughts as to what I should do. . . . . .
. . . . .Look at them side by side, and tell me what you think I should do!


....just sent ya a PM answer (IMHO) WHAT you should do ...







.....

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
I can assure you with the right water cooled set up, I can hold the I7 in the 40's. The trick is to get your water supply as close to ambient as possible then increase your tubing size until it can properly handle the wattage load.

The only way you will get a 4.4 OC maybe (and that is a very little maybe) in the 40's with water, is to use a copper car radiator or 2 and a huge 50 gallon res.


----------



## pcnuttie

I would like to know what temps this can run on a quad? I don't see anyone having a quad? I really think you guys should color these tubes for that wc set. Like sleeve it or something instead of seeing black. Doesn't this have a reservior or pump? I think the temps look same compared to air cooling but impressive however. I like this thread, got me interested.


----------



## Pings

Quad what? I see quite a few quad core CPUs on this page alone.


----------



## Inglewood78

Put in some black lighting in my case.


----------



## pcnuttie

I'm confused here. You got a reservior for this? What the heck? that has nothing to do with that?... I was doing lots of research and i am interested in this cpu cooler but i'm still skeptic cuz of the fan. Why does it have to be placed inside? Wouldn't that create a vaccum? I'm talking about Core 2 Quads that's all also.


----------



## pcnuttie

Why does it have an intake fan? Shouldn't that be in front of my antec tower intake instead of the rear? I'm interested in this cooler but i'm annoyed how they have a fan that does intake? Shouldn't it be a exhaust?


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Why does it have an intake fan? Shouldn't that be in front of my antec tower intake instead of the rear? I'm interested in this cooler but i'm annoyed how they have a fan that does intake? Shouldn't it be a exhaust?


You can use it any direction you want, and more than 1 fan too. It is not fixed.


----------



## sora1607

Does this thing last for a long time?


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


I'm confused here. You got a reservior for this? What the heck? that has nothing to do with that?... I was doing lots of research and i am interested in this cpu cooler but i'm still skeptic cuz of the fan. Why does it have to be placed inside? Wouldn't that create a vaccum? I'm talking about Core 2 Quads that's all also.


He just MODed his H50. You can find links on how to customize your H50 on the front page.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


You can use it any direction you want, and more than 1 fan too. It is not fixed.


This^ & ⇉. Corsair recommends intake, but Asetek the company who actually makes the H50 recommends exhaust. It really has to do with your GFX card and case. If you have a GFX with an air handler that blows hot air out the rear of your case, and pcnuttie you do. Its a good idea to have the H50 in exhaust. If you have a Vapor-X type of GFC with no air handler, its better to be intake. Also do you have a place for that hot air to go once its in your PC case. For the guys who have an air handlers on their GFX cards and their H50s in intake, need to be warned. Do to the season and AC's rooms, hot air from your GFX card is mixing with the cool air inside the radiator of the H50. This mixing creates condensation. That condensation is moisture that is now being blowing into your PC. But don't pay me no mind, feel free to try any way you like, and post about it. That's what this site is here for.

"*Asetekâ€™s factory sealed liquid cooling system is specifically designed to exhaust CPU heat directly outside of the chassis.*" - Asetek


----------



## mybadomen

I just found this post and had to join.My newest pc build i fitted with a Corsair H50 and i love it.I did replace the thermal paste with artic silver 5 right away but besides that i havent had to touch it.(i had no problems with the stock paste).Well nice to meet you all and dont mind my pc i just put it together this weak and so much more to do.The biggest thing is to get another gtx 260 in it.just waiting on more money.you know how that goes.anyway here it is let me know what you think so far.


----------



## Pings

Nice mybadomen, welcome to the club and the OCN. Its nice to see people join OCN for this club. Anyways, I 2 have a AMD PHII 940 system I was thinking of getting another H50 for. How you liking the temps?


----------



## mybadomen

Temps are great i was totally surprised how good it works .Its very warm in my house at the moment and my cpu temp is at 37c as we speak and im multitasking.Arctic silver 5 dropped the temps by a few degrees also after the break in period but the stock paste worked well also.


----------



## catalyst

holy crap! 242+ members in 3 months!








i think corsair/astek have a great product here


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Inglewood78* 


















*says* WOW, this picture is worth a thousand words!


----------



## pcnuttie

I heard that if you mod your H50 such as using a pump or a bigger rad leads to destroying the pump inside the RAD. I read it somewhere on u tube. It's nice but it cannot handle that kind of thing. I don't think it'll last. As for someone mentioning about the fans, i appreciate it. Cuz i have an antec 1200 and i wanna be able to use my fan on the rear that's a 120mm. So if i already have that i could use that as a backup and use the other fan. I have thought of trying this and if i do, i would totally change the way it looks. i don't like black cables, i could always get UV coils or sleeve it. Another question guys, doesn't water evaporate if you don't change it? Unless this is a different kind of special system to run forever? I would wonder what are the temps are on this cuz i ain't overclocking hard lol Just 3ghz cuz i don't need to push more, i just love seeing lower temps but that's just imo lol


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
He just MODed his H50. You can find links on how to customize your H50 on the front page.

This^ & ⇉. Corsair recommends intake, but Asetek the company who actually makes the H50 recommends exhaust. It really has to do with your GFX card and case. If you have a GFX with an air handler that blows hot air out the rear of your case, and pcnuttie you do. Its a good idea to have the H50 in exhaust. If you have a Vapor-X type of GFC with no air handler, its better to be intake. Also do you have a place for that hot air to go once its in your PC case. For the guys who have an air handlers on their GFX cards and their H50s in intake, need to be warned. Do to the season and AC's rooms, hot air from your GFX card is mixing with the cool air inside the radiator of the H50. This mixing creates condensation. That condensation is moisture that is now being blowing into your PC. But don't pay me no mind, feel free to try any way you like, and post about it. That's what this site is here for.

"*Asetekâ€™s factory sealed liquid cooling system is specifically designed to exhaust CPU heat directly outside of the chassis.*" - Asetek

Thanks for the tip, i had plans to make it exhaust IF i do get it. I'm just nervous about condensation. I'm running SLi and they do have vent fans too. If i already have a fan on my rear, can't i use that one or do i use both? or just make it exhaust only? Curious..


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


The only way you will get a 4.4 OC maybe (and that is a very little maybe) in the 40's with water, is to use a copper car radiator or 2 and a huge 50 gallon res.


LOL I don't think so. I think 3 tripple rads and a gallon res would probably do it. As long as you can get the proper flow through the block. That would be a little tricky.


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dkev*


LOL I don't think so. I think 3 tripple rads and a gallon res would probably do it. As long as you can get the proper flow through the block. That would be a little tricky.


Thinking means nothing









Have you had a i7?

I am planning on providing heating for the neighborhood in the winter with this thing!


----------



## gerikoh

add me to the club:


----------



## gerikoh

here's more pron when i benched it against the megashadow


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


Thinking means nothing









Have you had a i7?

I am planning on providing heating for the neighborhood in the winter with this thing!


No I don't have an i7. But considering my mechanical background, I know how to dissipate a heat load.


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dkev*


No I don't have an i7. But considering my mechanical background, I know how to dissipate a heat load.


I'm not gonna argue.









Actually, I would to just love to see any pic of an i7 @ 4.4 doing LinX @ less than 50 deg C on water alone.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


I'm not gonna argue.









Actually, I would to just love to see any pic of an i7 @ 4.4 doing LinX @ less than 50 deg C on water alone.


Does ice water count?


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


Does ice water count?


LOL like an ice maker feeding your res? Only if you can sustain that 24/7.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
LOL like an ice maker feeding your res? Only if you can sustain that 24/7.









What if my res is a tub of ice and ice water? lol


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
What if my res is a tub of ice and ice water? lol

what if its ice and water? without antifreeze youll corrode the rad/block, copper and aluminum dont like water! neither does the inside of your pc if it leaks!


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
what if its ice and water? without antifreeze youll corrode the rad/block, copper and aluminum dont like water! neither does the inside of your pc if it leaks!

I know, I don't actually have a modded H50, just a H50. I saw a video on YouTube of a guy cooling a Phenom II 965 C3 with ice and water in a Styrofoam cooler. He got it to like 4.5ghz and so I have reason to believe you could cool an i7 to 40C at 4.4ghz with something like that (hypothetically of course).


----------



## pcnuttie

bring those pics up guys i like seeing them, I'm surprised nobody bothered to sleeve those cables.. black is just boring to look at lol.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
bring those pics up guys i like seeing them, I'm surprised nobody bothered to sleeve those cables.. black is just boring to look at lol.

I'll post a little of my ghetto rig with good cable management.


----------



## Drzprince973

I guess I'll join









Here's my H50 in my 800D


----------



## pcnuttie

The fan is exhaust correct?


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Drzprince973* 
I guess I'll join









Here's my H50 in my 800D



























Good cable management, but why so many cables from your PSU at the bottom? You need modular!


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
The fan is exhaust correct?

Try both ways. It depends on your case pressure and if there is another fan close to the H50's as exhaust.


----------



## Drzprince973

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


Good cable management, but why so many cables from your PSU at the bottom? You need modular!


Thanks... I purchased this case because of it's good cable management. I have thought about purchasing a modular PSU but the one I currently have works perfectly so why spend the extra money....

But I am definitely getting one when this one decides to crap out


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


Good cable management, but why so many cables from your PSU at the bottom? You need modular!


not eveyrone likes modular, me personally, my luck I'd break the nimble connections lol


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*


not eveyrone likes modular, me personally, my luck I'd break the nimble connections lol


I like it since I can cable manage a 3 year old+ case. (pics soon)


----------



## WarlordOne

Are you guys welcoming Asetek LCLC owners to the club? I just picked one up because I've been wanting to mess around with it...


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


LOL like an ice maker feeding your res? Only if you can sustain that 24/7.










lol..if you could do that you could double it as a beer chest.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dkev*


lol..if you could do that you could double it as a beer chest.


Now you all are getting it!


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Good cable management, but why so many cables from your PSU at the bottom? You need modular!

Who says you need modular in that case:


----------



## Drzprince973

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


Who says you need modular in that case:











That looks great! How did you install that fan where your 5.25 bays are?


----------



## Pings

The Scythe Kama Bay. Check out the *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink* under Drive Bay Coolers (5.25").


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WarlordOne*


Are you guys welcoming Asetek LCLC owners to the club? I just picked one up because I've been wanting to mess around with it...










Hi WarlordOne... personally, I welcome everyone.

If you mean you picked up a H50 to mess with it, thats great... everyone here is messing with H50s.









Over to you *Killhouse *(thread owner/manager/moder par excellence)


----------



## cdnmustang

hey all, first i'd like to thankyou for this topic as i have found it very usefull

i haven't actually built a computer for nearly a decade so needless to say i have been doing alot of research (lots of catching up to do)

so i've decided to go with the h50 cooler in an exhaust push pull setup (being a mechanic by trade the whole water cooler is too cool to pass up). anyways i was wondering if anyone has looked into whether its better to have a postive case pressure or negative?

my thinking is i'd like asmuch air go through the rad as possible (and alittle in the psu of course), air always wanting to go from an area of high concentration to a low concentration should help aid in this

eventually i'd like to do a slight oc (a first for me) amd II x2 240 from 2.8 to 3.33 but thats alittle down the road and like to be sure the cooling and psu is up to the task first


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cdnmustang*


hey all, first i'd like to thankyou for this topic as i have found it very usefull

i haven't actually built a computer for nearly a decade so needless to say i have been doing alot of research (lots of catching up to do)

so i've decided to go with the h50 cooler in an exhaust push pull setup (being a mechanic by trade the whole water cooler is too cool to pass up). anyways i was wondering if anyone has looked into whether its better to have a postive case pressure or negative?

my thinking is i'd like asmuch air go through the rad as possible (and alittle in the psu of course), air always wanting to go from an area of high concentration to a low concentration should help aid in this

eventually i'd like to do a slight oc (a first for me) amd II x2 240 from 2.8 to 3.33 but thats alittle down the road and like to be sure the cooling and psu is up to the task first


Welcome to the house of fun.

Im sure you will enjoy this lil gem. You will no doubt get a zillion different answers to your pressure question.

I currently have 4 x input fans and 5 exhaust, not counting the PSU. This manly due to my hot GPU card... need to get the heat out.

Also, once you can, post some pics and let us know about your temps... in the meantime, have fun!


----------



## masustic

so im going to order two new fans for my h50 tomorrow....what should i get????


----------



## 3volvedcombat

Justing Posting a update on my corsair H50 setup, got a iphone to take pictures with now so its all good. I never hit above 60c with my 4.0ghz 24/7 overclock and its intake.

And to think i was in the first 20 to join the club and i look at the list busting 250 members already, THATS THE SPIRIT!


----------



## pcnuttie

Why do people need to use fans on their rams? There are heatsink rams you know?







Less space too.


----------



## 3volvedcombat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Why do people need to use fans on their rams? There are heatsink rams you know?







Less space too.


I have a fan on my ramsticks because im pumping 2.3-2.2volts into them 24/7 Also at 2.25-2.3volts i want you to stick your hand on 4 hot blazing sticks of overclocked ram while its being stressed. It gets very hot and could burn you. Also it helps cool more then just ram, such as chipsets and cpu sockets







.

And its just for the e-peen







!!!!


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Why do people need to use fans on their rams? There are heatsink rams you know?







Less space too.


we increase voltages on them(they get hotter), so you need to cool them so your high priced ram lasts longer... =P


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Why do people need to use fans on their rams? There are heatsink rams you know?







Less space too.


Because they..
1) Can
2) Look cool
3) Cool their OC ram

Quote:



Originally Posted by *masustic*

so im going to order two new fans for my h50 tomorrow....what should i get????


There is a link on the front page to fans and stuff. Im using the humble coolermaster R4 LED case fans to good effect. Others have used Zalman... Im sure you will get a ton of different answers though


----------



## Killhouse

I am tremendoulsy drunk, so I will update the front pa_ge tomorrow._


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


I am *tremendoulsy *drunk, so I will update the front pa_ge tomorrow._


Ya think?

*tremendoulsy *= tremendously.








I love it when you post rate faced and silly. Its an inspiration to us all.

Hell, Im doing that tonight!


----------



## Killhouse

"Doubt; is about as useful as a fire escape when your trying to dodge a tidle wave."

Goodnight


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


"Doubt; is about as useful as a fire escape when your trying to dodge a tidle wave."

Goodnight


Whats a tidle? Is that a small tidal wave <your killing me Jerry>









Doubt? "Blessed is the mind too small for doubt, sanity is for weak!" _Various DOW quotes_

Dont go gazing into your navel there Killhouse, you may not come out again


----------



## pjladyfox

I would like to be added to the ranks of H50 owners as my inaugural first post to these forums. ^_^

I figured, after reading thru some of this thread and reviews elsewhere, that an H50 was in order to go with the Phenom II 955 (upgrading from a 940) for my system. Now the question I have right now is if the following temps seem normal for a 955 running at stock:

Monitoring Tools: Everest 5.3, CoreTemp 99.5
Stress Tool: Prime95 v.295 (duration: 1 hour)

Idle: 35
Load: 47

Now, this is a bit warmer than my 940 which was using a Zalman 9700NT:

Idle: 30
Load: 45

The numbers look good to me, especially based upon reading some other posts that I searched for here. But just wished to see if this was wishful thinking or not.

Just to be on the safe side I did loosen up the mounting screws and re-seated the pump. Also verified that the pump is running at 1420 or so on the CPU header with all speed control disabled as well as the pair of Noctua NF-P12's running full out at around 1240 or so in a push/pull configuration exhausting out the rear.

Now I need to pop over to the Antec 300/900/1200 Owners Thread and post there as well. -_^


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pjladyfox* 
I would like to be added to the ranks of H50 owners as my inaugural first post to these forums. ^_^

Thats a nice setup and your temps are good.

You can achieve nicer temps using a shroud too (see front page of this thread). Also, which TIM did you use.

Apart from that, it looks like you have the standard questions covered.

nice work man dudette







. Killhouse will add you to the list, once his hangover leaves him (I kill myself sometimes.







)


----------



## 00Smurf

Pics at last.

*This is at idle:*









*This is With Intel burn test maximum and Furmark running at the same time for 10 mins.*









*Pics of the Setup:*


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *00Smurf* 
Pics at last.

Nice - impressive!

What program are you using in the first two "pics"?


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Nice - impressive!

What program are you using in the first two "pics"?

everest ultimate + g19 kybd


----------



## pjladyfox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Thats a nice setup and your temps are good.

You can achieve nicer temps using a shroud too (see front page of this thread). Also, which TIM did you use.

Apart from that, it looks like you have the standard questions covered.

nice work man. Killhouse will add you to the list, once his hangover leaves him (I kill myself sometimes.







)


I saw someone mention that earlier but, to be quite honest, I was not sure exactly how it would work in a push/pull configuration exausting out the rear. I'll have to read thru it again to see if it makes any better sense this time reading a third time around.









I wound up using the factory installed TIM since I really wanted to make sure to take out any complications should something have gone south. That way, it also would make things easier to troubleshoot as well.

I did notice after running Prime95 for about 1 1/2 hours that I got a single failure on the #1 test, which I'm thinking was on core 1, and it stopped. However, the other three were still poking along so I'm thinking it's okay but a lot of this is new to me since I'm usually a slap on a heatsink/fan and away I go kind of girl.

Otherwise, I'm pretty impressed with how much more quiet my system is even running a slightly more beefier CPU than I had before. Still going to keep my 9700NT around just-in-case something goes wrong over the next few days but I'm pretty happy with what I see so far. Heck, swapping in some S-Flex SF21E's to replace the Noctua's I used for the H50 seems to be working good as well.

Just hope that's not a famous last words thing.


----------



## RonindeBeatrice

Anybody want a 240mm Asetek unit? I picked it up and the damn thing won't fit in my Sugo 3 (really tight tolerances)


----------



## mr-Charles

by chance have any pic's of or even a link to see???
{would you know if this is a Brass, or Copper, or an Aluminum core type???}

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pjladyfox*


I saw someone mention that earlier but, to be quite honest, I was not sure exactly how it would work in a push/pull configuration exausting out the rear. I'll have to read thru it again to see if it makes any better sense this time reading a third time around.









I wound up using the factory installed TIM since I really wanted to make sure to take out any complications should something have gone south. That way, it also would make things easier to troubleshoot as well.

I did notice after running Prime95 for about 1 1/2 hours that I got a single failure on the #1 test, which I'm thinking was on core 1, and it stopped. However, the other three were still poking along so I'm thinking it's okay but a lot of this is new to me since I'm usually a slap on a heatsink/fan and away I go kind of girl.

Otherwise, I'm pretty impressed with how much more quiet my system is even running a slightly more beefier CPU than I had before. Still going to keep my 9700NT around just-in-case something goes wrong over the next few days but I'm pretty happy with what I see so far. Heck, swapping in some S-Flex SF21E's to replace the Noctua's I used for the H50 seems to be working good as well.

Just hope that's not a famous last words thing.










The TIM is Shin Etsu, its a good quality TIM but I think they laid it on a lil thick. I went from scrapping it off (didnt know what it was at that time) and applying MX-3, back to the ES X23... Im happy with it now









The rad seems to like high pressure fans. Im using the humble CM R4 in push and pull to great effect. Some are even using Zalman fans... see the front page for details.

I dont think anything will go wrong. Its a sturdy unit (got my Thor's Hammer - just in case LOL).

Have a think about a shroud... they really do make a difference.

Just checked out your rig on the Antec thread... very nice! We too would like that eye-candy here pls









Also, sorry about the "nice work *man*" thing... Ive amended my original post









Quote:



Originally Posted by *00Smurf*

everest ultimate + g19 kybd


Aww, now see, your just showing off


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RonindeBeatrice* 
Anybody want a 240mm Asetek unit? I picked it up and the damn thing won't fit in my Sugo 3 (really tight tolerances)

I am interested!


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pjladyfox* 
I saw someone mention that earlier but, to be quite honest, I was not sure exactly how it would work in a push/pull configuration exausting out the rear. I'll have to read thru it again to see if it makes any better sense this time reading a third time around.









I wound up using the factory installed TIM since I really wanted to make sure to take out any complications should something have gone south. That way, it also would make things easier to troubleshoot as well.

I did notice after running Prime95 for about 1 1/2 hours that I got a single failure on the #1 test, which I'm thinking was on core 1, and it stopped. However, the other three were still poking along so I'm thinking it's okay but a lot of this is new to me since I'm usually a slap on a heatsink/fan and away I go kind of girl.

Otherwise, I'm pretty impressed with how much more quiet my system is even running a slightly more beefier CPU than I had before. Still going to keep my 9700NT around just-in-case something goes wrong over the next few days but I'm pretty happy with what I see so far. Heck, swapping in some S-Flex SF21E's to replace the Noctua's I used for the H50 seems to be working good as well.

Just hope that's not a famous last words thing.










Actually of your Previous post yes according to my Testings using the same you had Zalman CNPS9700*NT (But I have a CPU Phenom ii x4 965be C3)... well it indeeds cools more (As in Stock Settings @ 3.41Ghz), but here is the difference if I have it overclocked lets say at 4.21Ghz that is my current settings the H50 Cools more in Load(48c - 50c), where the Zalman would go higher than 52c... actually that was when on 4.01Ghz so I'm guessing the Zalman would have not survived at 4.21Ghz... so in conclusion an H50 is good if you are overclocking.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RonindeBeatrice* 
Anybody want a 240mm Asetek unit? I picked it up and the damn thing won't fit in my Sugo 3 (really tight tolerances)

I want it I'll pay through paypal right now!


----------



## BlueFox

The H50 is cooled in a push/pull exhaust configurtion. The fans are Scythe S-FLEX SFF21F and seem to do OK and are pretty quiet.
The air boxes are home-made 40 mm deep and attached to the H50 rad with 6x32 - 3" bolts.

In the 5.25" bay there are 2 Antec TriCool 120mm fans connected together with another home-made 48mm airbox. The fans are held in a pair of Antec 900 fan holders. Xmisery inspired me with his own "air tunnel".
Ed...


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *00Smurf* 
Pics at last.

*This is at idle:*









*This is With Intel burn test maximum and Furmark running at the same time for 10 mins.*









*Pics of the Setup:*

























nice headphones, i got the same ones







Fatal1ty ftw


----------



## dude120

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlueFox* 
The H50 is cooled in a push/pull exhaust configurtion. The fans are Scythe S-FLEX SFF21F and seem to do OK and are pretty quiet.
The air boxes are home-made 40 mm deep and attached to the H50 rad with 6x32 - 3" bolts.

In the 5.25" bay there are 2 Antec TriCool 120mm fans connected together with another home-made 48mm airbox. The fans are held in a pair of Antec 900 fan holders. Xmisery inspired me with his own "air tunnel".
Ed...

Temps?
i see you had to put the fan guard there, i had to go out and buy one because i kept cutting my self on the fans lol


----------



## BlueFox

I've attached a drawing of my 120mm airbox. I assume no responsible for its use or suitability in use for any purpose.
Ed..


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:

I am tremendoulsy drunk, so I will update the front page tomorrow.
I'm sober now so _Front page updated._


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *_CH_Skyline_* 
Hey hey! Picked up and installed mine today! Could you add me as well?










nice case, i got the same one, but i replaced all the 230mm's besides the front panel with r4's my H50 is top exhaust in the forward slot in fan>shroud>rad>shroud>fan>case and i was cheap, i used thumbscrews to attach the fan/shroud pieces to the rad, and regular fan screws to attach the fan to the case, and the fans to the shrouds, nothing a little miniature screwdriver set cant handle


----------



## RonindeBeatrice

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
I am interested!










Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
I want it I'll pay through paypal right now!









Here. I'm not trying to work around OCn's rules.


----------



## xMEATWADx95x

add me to list


----------



## pcnuttie

Shouldn't these be switched downwards, Aren't water suppose to rise from the bottom to the top of the rad instead of running it from all the way to the top?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
Shouldn't these be switched downwards, Aren't water suppose to rise from the bottom to the top of the rad instead of running it from all the way to the top?

It shouldnt make a difference, the radiator is dualpass (or whatever you call it when the water goes one way then back again!)

OT:
Head over to the Mod of the Month competition - I'm running with my acrylic case "Paroxysm" and there are some fantastic competition too


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlueFox* 
The H50 is cooled in a push/pull exhaust configurtion. The fans are Scythe S-FLEX SFF21F and seem to do OK and are pretty quiet.
The air boxes are home-made 40 mm deep and attached to the H50 rad with 6x32 - 3" bolts.

In the 5.25" bay there are 2 Antec TriCool 120mm fans connected together with another home-made 48mm airbox. The fans are held in a pair of Antec 900 fan holders. Xmisery inspired me with his own "air tunnel".
Ed...

Wow!! That came together very nicely!









Yeah, I was just looking at this and going, omg! This looks sort of like mine, but better! haha


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlueFox*


I've attached a drawing of my 120mm airbox. I assume no responsible for its use or suitability in use for any purpose.
Ed..


Did you end up doing the work yourself? If I wanted to replicate what you've done, where can I get the materials and what tools would I need to make these? Thanks in advance!


----------



## Volkswagen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Did you end up doing the work yourself? If I wanted to replicate what you've done, where can I get the materials and what tools would I need to make these? Thanks in advance!


X2 or how much would you charge for one?


----------



## BlueFox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Did you end up doing the work yourself? If I wanted to replicate what you've done, where can I get the materials and what tools would I need to make these? Thanks in advance!


I bought the Acrylic plastic at a local retail plastic supplier. They have a "scrap bin" as most plastic shops do. They sell it by the pound which turns out at about 1/3 the cost of cut-size-pieces.

Acrylic cuts nicely with a table saw. I sand the edges with 100, 120, 200, then 320 grit sandpaper. This takes about 15 mins for a box this size.

The edges are then buffed with a cotton buffing wheel (I rigged up in my drill press) with "red" rouge which takes just a just a few minutes to get the edges clear.

I have a 4 oz can of IPS acrylic cement which will glue up about 100 boxes or more









Also needed is an applicator bottle which has a micro needle (about $2.75). The cement is super fluid and only a few drops is needed to glue up the whole box.

So little is required that I only add enough cement to the applicator to cover the bottom of the 2 oz bottle and don't bother to put the unused cement back in the can!

The 3 airboxes cost me $11 but the cement was more than 1/2 of that cost. My last can I bought lasted 15 years before it evaporated.

And, no, I won't sell these!


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlueFox*


I bought the Acrylic plastic at a local retail plastic supplier. They have a "scrap bin" as most plastic shops do. They sell it by the pound which turns out at about 1/3 the cost of cut-size-pieces.

Acrylic cuts nicely with a table saw. I sand the edges with 100, 120, 200, then 320 grit sandpaper. This takes about 15 mins for a box this size.

The edges are then buffed with a cotton buffing wheel (I rigged up in my drill press) with "red" rouge which takes just a just a few minutes to get the edges clear.

I have a 4 oz can of IPS acrylic cement which will glue up about 100 boxes or more









Also is need is a applicator bottle which has a micro needle (about $2.75). The cement is super fluid and only a few drops is needed to glue up the whole box.

So little is required that I only add enough cement to the applicator to cover the bottom of the 2 oz bottle and don't bother to put the unused cement back in the can!

The 3 airboxes cost me $11 but the cement was more than 1/2 of that cost. My last can I bought lasted 15 years before it evaporated.

And, no, I won't sell these!


Very nice, thanks for sharing!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlueFox*


I've attached a drawing of my 120mm airbox. I assume no responsible for its use or suitability in use for any purpose.
Ed..


Nice! Iove seeing the creative side of our membership


----------



## denn_is

this is my new oc with the H50.


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
nice headphones, i got the same ones







Fatal1ty ftw
















For sure, these are the best headphones i've ever had. I'm sure there are great ones that are more expensive, but for the $54 i paid for these, can't go wrong.


----------



## sexybastard

hey guys









heres a little preview of what I have been up to for the last few hours


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


hey guys









heres a little preview of what I have been up to for the last few hours











Best use of a 100 pack dvd case, to hold up your res for custom watercooling leakproofing.


----------



## CaptnBB

I wait, and anticipate your results.


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
nice case, i got the same one, but i replaced all the 230mm's besides the front panel with r4's my H50 is top exhaust in the forward slot in fan>shroud>rad>shroud>fan>case and i was cheap, i used thumbscrews to attach the fan/shroud pieces to the rad, and regular fan screws to attach the fan to the case, and the fans to the shrouds, nothing a little miniature screwdriver set cant handle

Yeah, I'm loving my HAF 932. I'll be making some changes in a week or so. I'm seriously considering a swiftech reservoir and some new tubing to make the H50 look a little nicer.

Could anyone let me know about how long I should be testing for leaks before reassembling my system once I've added the res and tubing? I'm not even sure what size tubing to get...


----------



## CaptnBB

1/4" ID tubing and for a few hrs.


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CaptnBB* 
1/4" ID tubing and for a few hrs.









Thanks for the quick response!


----------



## CaptnBB

No problem. Also remember Distilled water and 10% antifreeze.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CaptnBB*


No problem. Also remember Distilled water and 10% antifreeze.










what about the 4:1 ratio of distilled to antifreeze?


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *00Smurf*


Pics at last.

*This is at idle:*









*This is With Intel burn test maximum and Furmark running at the same time for 10 mins.*









*Pics of the Setup:*


























Wow, very impressive Temps


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


hey guys









heres a little preview of what I have been up to for the last few hours


Yeah! Sexybastard is modding again!!!


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlueFox* 
I bought the Acrylic plastic at a local retail plastic supplier. They have a "scrap bin" as most plastic shops do. They sell it by the pound which turns out at about 1/3 the cost of cut-size-pieces.

Acrylic cuts nicely with a table saw. I sand the edges with 100, 120, 200, then 320 grit sandpaper. This takes about 15 mins for a box this size.

The edges are then buffed with a cotton buffing wheel (I rigged up in my drill press) with "red" rouge which takes just a just a few minutes to get the edges clear.

I have a 4 oz can of IPS acrylic cement which will glue up about 100 boxes or more









Also needed is an applicator bottle which has a micro needle (about $2.75). The cement is super fluid and only a few drops is needed to glue up the whole box.

So little is required that I only add enough cement to the applicator to cover the bottom of the 2 oz bottle and don't bother to put the unused cement back in the can!

The 3 airboxes cost me $11 but the cement was more than 1/2 of that cost. My last can I bought lasted 15 years before it evaporated.

And, no, I won't sell these!

You can save your self a bunch of time and use a propane torch to polish your edges. The torch will turn the edges clear in short order. Practice on some scrap first so you get the hang of it.


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Yeah! Sexybastard is modding again!!!


























thanks man

ok so I am done with my mod.

I got a 120mm rad from a really nice guy on a different forum who hooked it up for free if I just paid shipping. So $10 later I had a nice 120mm rad to play with. I wanted to install in my pc so I wouldn't have tubes running to the top of the case or all around... wanted to keep everything as small as possible while still improving temps to the point where they are on par with a custom loop. I think I have achieved that while keeping this relatively cheap.

H50 = $60
Res = $22
Barbs = $10
Rad = $10
tubing = $3

All in all just over a $100 for a 2 x 120mm loop. Not bad









And now on to the pics














































My setup and overclock:

Core i7 920 @ 4200mhz with 1.33v
Prime95 small fft's = 100% load
Ambient temp = 25c

100% stock H50 = mid to high 70celcius
H50 with res and tubes = low to mid 70celcius
H50 with dual 120mm rads = mid to high 60celcius

So a good 10c drop over stock which is very nice and not to mention how much cooler this one looks lol


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sexybastard* 









thanks man

ok so I am done with my mod.

I got a 120mm rad from a really nice guy on a different forum who hooked it up for free if I just paid shipping. So $10 later I had a nice 120mm rad to play with. I wanted to install in my pc so I wouldn't have tubes running to the top of the case or all around... wanted to keep everything as small as possible while still improving temps to the point where they are on par with a custom loop. I think I have achieved that while keeping this relatively cheap.

H50 = $60
Res = $22
Barbs = $10
Rad = $10
tubing = $3

All in all just over a $100 for a 2 x 120mm loop. Not bad









And now on to the pics

My setup and overclock:

Core i7 920 @ 4200mhz with 1.33v
Prime95 small fft's = 100% load
Ambient temp = 25c

100% stock H50 = mid to high 70celcius
H50 with res and tubes = low to mid 70celcius
H50 with dual 120mm rads = mid to high 60celcius

So a good 10c drop over stock which is very nice and not to mention how much cooler this one looks lol

Thats is soooo, to-die-for man! Excellent work and fantastic temps!









Whats next?? (j/jokes)


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Thats is soooo, to-die-for man! Excellent work and fantastic temps!









Whats next?? (j/jokes)

haha thanks.

next step is to make a hole on the bottom of the case to get some legit air flow going through the second rad. Right now the fan only has about a 1/3 of an inch to get air and with a nice 120mm hole on the bottom I can see the temps dropping another few degrees.

But that will require me to basically tear apart the PC which I am not really looking forward to doing... with a case as small as the A05 its a real chore.

But yeah I can see the temps in the low to mid 60's after a few days to let the TIM cure and also to get 100% of the bubbles out of the loop


----------



## Evtron

Looking at getting some anti-kink coils - what size do they need to be for the H50

the ones I saw someone using were - 1/2 OD" Tubing I believe


----------



## Evtron

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sexybastard* 









thanks man

ok so I am done with my mod.

I got a 120mm rad from a really nice guy on a different forum who hooked it up for free if I just paid shipping. So $10 later I had a nice 120mm rad to play with. I wanted to install in my pc so I wouldn't have tubes running to the top of the case or all around... wanted to keep everything as small as possible while still improving temps to the point where they are on par with a custom loop. I think I have achieved that while keeping this relatively cheap.

H50 = $60
Res = $22
Barbs = $10
Rad = $10
tubing = $3

All in all just over a $100 for a 2 x 120mm loop. Not bad









My setup and overclock:

Core i7 920 @ 4200mhz with 1.33v
Prime95 small fft's = 100% load
Ambient temp = 25c

100% stock H50 = mid to high 70celcius
H50 with res and tubes = low to mid 70celcius
H50 with dual 120mm rads = mid to high 60celcius

So a good 10c drop over stock which is very nice and not to mention how much cooler this one looks lol

This is definitely on my to-do list down the road, 10c is definitely quite an improvement - now would this work with any second 120mm rad?


----------



## BlueFox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *00Smurf*


Pics at last.

*This is With Intel burn test maximum and Furmark running at the same time for 10 mins.*










Do I read your test correctly that at load your 920 is consuming 95 watts? Are there other programs beside Furmark to read power consumed?

Ed...


----------



## PCSarge

yay...my E7400 CAN OC to 4.0ghz, but i cant get it stable...any suggestions for me guys? its kinda pissing me off that it jumps unstable after 3.2ghz
i've seen about 4 posts of an E7400 running at 4.0ghz OC on an air cooler, i wanna stress the H50 out with it in crysis


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


yay...my E7400 CAN OC to 4.0ghz, but i cant get it stable...any suggestions for me guys? its kinda pissing me off that it jumps unstable after 3.2ghz
i've seen about 4 posts of an E7400 running at 4.0ghz OC on an air cooler, i wanna stress the H50 out with it in crysis


Its not the same mobo but you may get some tips...

Quote:



http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...-p45-ud3l.html


Hope this helps

I was mucking around last night and got 4.05Ghz. OCCT Linpack tested for 30mins... went back to stock and went to bed...

Max load @ 68-69c. So, you may see something similar.

Just wish I could get a decent OC on this GTX 275


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlueFox* 
Do I read your test correctly that at load your 920 is consuming 95 watts? Are there other programs beside Furmark to read power consumed?

Ed...

Everest was doing the power consumed monitoring. I was running fur mark and intel burn test at the same time, with everest doing the monitoring and outputting it to my g19.


----------



## mav2000

Hey Sexybastard thats some awesome work...really looking beautiful...


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


hey guys









heres a little preview of what I have been up to for the last few hours


SB,

I've been thinking about that for awhile! Nice job









LMK how it turns out, because I'm not sure whether the pump will pull that well, and whether or not I should just run a larger rad instead...

hmmmmmm

Nice work!


----------



## kermit101

I hope your pump doesnt burn out since others using a larger rad burned out.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kermit101*


I hope your pump doesnt burn out since others using a larger rad burned out.


The Asetek 240 uses the SAME pump, so he should be fine...

I think the concern should be whether the cooling will be more effective utilizing the dual radiators, as opposed to a single, larger one.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


hey guys









heres a little preview of what I have been up to for the last few hours


Nice nice nice nice!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dkev*


You can save your self a bunch of time and use a propane torch to polish your edges. The torch will turn the edges clear in short order. Practice on some scrap first so you get the hang of it.










Sanding will produce a much nice edge than torching, torching is the lazy version







Instead of the red rouge wheel you can give you arm a workout with some brasso and an old rag.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


ok so I am done with my mod.

My setup and overclock:

Core i7 920 @ 4200mhz with 1.33v 
Prime95 small fft's = 100% load 
Ambient temp = 25c

100% stock H50 = mid to high 70celcius 
H50 with res and tubes = low to mid 70celcius 
H50 with dual 120mm rads = mid to high 60celcius

So a good 10c drop over stock which is very nice and not to mention how much cooler this one looks lol


That is VERY nice, +rep and permalinked to the front page - our first successful dual rad setup!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evtron*


Looking at getting some anti-kink coils - what size do they need to be for the H50

the ones I saw someone using were - 1/2 OD" Tubing I believe


The tubing is 1/2" OD, so that would be correct


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*











thanks man

ok so I am done with my mod.

I got a 120mm rad from a really nice guy on a different forum who hooked it up for free if I just paid shipping. So $10 later I had a nice 120mm rad to play with. I wanted to install in my pc so I wouldn't have tubes running to the top of the case or all around... wanted to keep everything as small as possible while still improving temps to the point where they are on par with a custom loop. I think I have achieved that while keeping this relatively cheap.

H50 = $60 
Res = $22 
Barbs = $10 
Rad = $10
tubing = $3

All in all just over a $100 for a 2 x 120mm loop. Not bad









And now on to the pics














































My setup and overclock:

Core i7 920 @ 4200mhz with 1.33v 
Prime95 small fft's = 100% load 
Ambient temp = 25c

100% stock H50 = mid to high 70celcius 
H50 with res and tubes = low to mid 70celcius 
H50 with dual 120mm rads = mid to high 60celcius

So a good 10c drop over stock which is very nice and not to mention how much cooler this one looks lol


wOW! thats AWESOME SICKO! anyone who can beat this modded H50 rad 2x120mm?! MMmm...


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

@ Killhouse- Could you add me to the list? Just saw that I've not been there since your last update.


----------



## Killhouse

_added_


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *_CH_Skyline_* 
@ Killhouse- Could you add me to the list? Just saw that I've not been there since your last update.


























hate to do this...but isnt your sound card just a wee bit too close to the top of your gtx 260?


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
hate to do this...but isnt your sound card just a wee bit too close to the top of your gtx 260?

That's for the 'onboard' sound. It is just a 'port expander'. Actual sound hardware is on the motherboard.


----------



## Potoroo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
but Asetek the company who actually makes the H50 recommends exhaust.

Where did you read that?


----------



## Potoroo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *masustic* 
so im going to order two new fans for my h50 tomorrow....what should i get????

2 x Noctua NF-P12.


----------



## WarlordOne

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sexybastard* 










So a good 10c drop over stock which is very nice and not to mention how much cooler this one looks lol

Nice! This is what i like to see. Makes me anxious for mine to come in so I can mod it.

If I were you I'd look at getting some taller case feet, although I doubt it would make a huge difference in your temps. Who knows until you try it. What tubing are you using? It looks like you've got some good bends going without any kinks.


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
hate to do this...but isnt your sound card just a wee bit too close to the top of your gtx 260?

I've got two PCI-E x1 slots and my other GTX260 is covering it, so it's my only option. I've not noticed anything wrong with this setup though, and it doesn't seem to transfer any heat. The airflow in my HAF 932 is quite fantastic.


----------



## BlueFox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlueFox* 
Acrylic cuts nicely with a table saw. I sand the edges with 100, 120, 200, then 320 grit sandpaper. This takes about 15 mins for a box this size.

The edges are then buffed with a cotton buffing wheel (I rigged up in my drill press) with "red" rouge which takes just a just a few minutes to get the edges clear.

There is a reference to using flame to clear the edges of acrylic. For the those who have never messed around with acrylic, I would suggest you Google "Acrylic flame polishing".

The professionals recommend either scraping or sanding prior to flame polishing. The exception is where the acrylic has been nicely machined to a satin finish prior to flaming. I'm not saying that flame clearing can't be done without sanding/scraping, because it has.

The caution is that flaming can cause stresses in the acrylic and may require annealing post flaming to prevent crazing.

I would suppose that Killhouse could explain this better than I. Just get some information about this subject before spending your time cutting acrylic. Then decide how you will proceed.








Ed...


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlueFox* 
There is a reference to using flame to clear the edges of acrylic. For the those who have never messed around with acrylic, I would suggest you Google "Acrylic flame polishing".

The professionals recommend either scraping or sanding prior to flame polishing. The exception is where the acrylic has been nicely machined to a satin finish prior to flaming. I'm not saying that flame clearing can't be done without sanding/scraping, because it has.

The caution is that flaming can cause stresses in the acrylic and may require annealing post flaming to prevent crazing.

I would suppose that Killhouse could explain this better than I. Just get some information about this subject before spending your time cutting acrylic. Then decide how you will proceed.








Ed...

Yeah, most professionals will tend to guide you away from flame polishing. The normal procedure is to take it to 400-800 grit before flame polishing, and in my experience the 1000-1200 grit is the easiest anyway.

I flame polish the non-visible edges just because I can, though it's really not needed at all.

I dont know of any structural disadvantages (though I'm sure bluefox is right) except that you dont want to spill alchohol on it afterwards because the acrylic will shatter. Also, dont melt it when you flame it









In my opinion, sanding is always worth the extra time.


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mav2000* 
Hey Sexybastard thats some awesome work...really looking beautiful...

thanks!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
SB,

I've been thinking about that for awhile! Nice job









LMK how it turns out, because I'm not sure whether the pump will pull that well, and whether or not I should just run a larger rad instead...

hmmmmmm

Nice work!

I think the pump is pretty strong but when I was modding this one I noticed that when large air bubbles would get trapped inside it would seize up. I had to flip it around in different ways to get the bubbles out. But once they were out it pumps quite strongly.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kermit101* 
I hope your pump doesnt burn out since others using a larger rad burned out.

I was the one that modded the larger rad. The pump didn't burn out... it was just a weak attempt by me by not using a res so air got trapped in the pump. there was no water to push so that's why I thought it burned out.

But yeah me too I hope the pumps keeps going strong lol

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
That is VERY nice, +rep and permalinked to the front page - our first successful dual rad setup!

thank you good sir! finally made the FP









Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
wOW! thats AWESOME SICKO! anyone who can beat this modded H50 rad 2x120mm?! MMmm...

thanks! it took quite a bit of patience and effort to try to squeeze all of it in a cramped space like my case expecially with only myself doing but its done and I am happy. I am 100% sure the pump can handle a 240mm rad so people who have the case for it to GO FOR IT!!!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WarlordOne* 
Nice! This is what i like to see. Makes me anxious for mine to come in so I can mod it.

If I were you I'd look at getting some taller case feet, although I doubt it would make a huge difference in your temps. Who knows until you try it. What tubing are you using? It looks like you've got some good bends going without any kinks.

thanks man!

Yeah the plan is to make a 4 1/2" hole in the bottom of the case and mount a 120mm fan to it to blow through the second rad. and yes taller case feet are a must - thinking of these but they are so expensive









I am using 1/4" tubing so I think that helps with the kinks.


----------



## sora1607

Question for you guys: I'm planning to get this cooler. How does this fair against Venomous-X push/pull config in your opinion? I've seen people not getting good results with this and I've also seen people getting awesome results. I'm not looking around for benchmark because I'm looking for accumulative personal opinions rather than one person's benchmark so I figured asking here is the best way.
Thanks


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sora1607* 
Question for you guys: I'm planning to get this cooler. How does this fair against Venomous-X push/pull config in your opinion? I've seen people not getting good results with this and I've also seen people getting awesome results. I'm not looking around for benchmark because I'm looking for accumulative personal opinions rather than one person's benchmark so I figured asking here is the best way.
Thanks









The basic score is that this wont cool your chip as well as a ven-x, but there are other advantages to the H50. Such as being able to see your motherboard and not having a massive weight hanging off your motherboard.

Plus we have an awesome club









To re-iterate, its not as good at cooling as a ven-x. It's about as good as a mega, and performs slightly better on AMD chips.


----------



## G|F.E.A.D|Killa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sexybastard* 









thanks man

ok so I am done with my mod.

I got a 120mm rad from a really nice guy on a different forum who hooked it up for free if I just paid shipping. So $10 later I had a nice 120mm rad to play with. I wanted to install in my pc so I wouldn't have tubes running to the top of the case or all around... wanted to keep everything as small as possible while still improving temps to the point where they are on par with a custom loop. I think I have achieved that while keeping this relatively cheap.

H50 = $60
Res = $22
Barbs = $10
Rad = $10
tubing = $3

All in all just over a $100 for a 2 x 120mm loop. Not bad









And now on to the pics














































My setup and overclock:

Core i7 920 @ 4200mhz with 1.33v
Prime95 small fft's = 100% load
Ambient temp = 25c

100% stock H50 = mid to high 70celcius
H50 with res and tubes = low to mid 70celcius
H50 with dual 120mm rads = mid to high 60celcius

So a good 10c drop over stock which is very nice and not to mention how much cooler this one looks lol

now thats a good compact looking system. nice work man. i wish my WCing was that subtle


----------



## sexybastard

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *G|F.E.A.D|Killa*   now thats a good compact looking system. nice work man. i wish my WCing was that subtle  
thanks man.

it took a lot of effort to get the loop to fit in such a small space but i think i was pretty successful.

and here is a video of leaking testing and the final product

  
 YouTube- Corsair H50 Dual 120mm Radiator Mod


----------



## Kjekse

Write me up


----------



## XiZeL

not really sure im allowed to do this but i guess most H50 owners are subscribed to this thread so it would be nice if you could have a look at this thread i made about some questions i have about my h50

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ntec-p183.html

thank you


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


thanks man.

it took a lot of effort to get the loop to fit in such a small space but i think i was pretty successful.

and here is a video of leaking testing and the final product

YouTube- Corsair H50 Dual 120mm Radiator Mod


hmm I'll be totally honest mines similar @ 4.21Ghz (1.48v) and my Max Load is at 50c - 54c, just using the normal Exhaust push(corsair)/rad/pull(panaflow), my idle is at 29c - 32c

I do not understand how can mines be more cooler than yours if I live in Puerto Rico which is hot climate, but I do have many crappy fans inside. Even though it looks pretty kick ass your Mod I love it.... how much would you charge to make that Mod? Of course I'll pay(paypal) for all the needed stuff(I'll ship you my H50)... I really want a mod like yours. I can't risk it my self I know I'll mess it up.

I attached my crappy/sucky set up pic from inside eheheee


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XiZeL*


not really sure im allowed to do [...........]
thank you


No problem, I posted in your thread









EDIT: _Front page updated._


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


hmm I'll be totally honest mines similar @ 4.21Ghz (1.48v) and my Max Load is at 50c - 54c, just using the normal Exhaust push(corsair)/rad/pull(panaflow), my idle is at 29c - 32c

I do not understand how can mines be more cooler than yours if I live in Puerto Rico which is hot climate, but I do have many crappy fans inside. Even though it looks pretty kick ass your Mod I love it.... how much would you charge to make that Mod? Of course I'll pay(paypal) for all the needed stuff(I'll ship you my H50)... I really want a mod like yours. I can't risk it my self I know I'll mess it up.

I attached my crappy/sucky set up pic from inside eheheee


Holy crap!!! I've just got four words for you....."cable management" and "zip ties". Wow


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


That's for the 'onboard' sound. It is just a 'port expander'. Actual sound hardware is on the motherboard.


It's not actually a port expander, it's an X-Fi Fatal1ty Pro PCI-E x1 5.1/7.1 soundcard.


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


hmm I'll be totally honest mines similar @ 4.21Ghz (1.48v) and my Max Load is at 50c - 54c, just using the normal Exhaust push(corsair)/rad/pull(panaflow), my idle is at 29c - 32c

I do not understand how can mines be more cooler than yours if I live in Puerto Rico which is hot climate, but I do have many crappy fans inside. Even though it looks pretty kick ass your Mod I love it.... how much would you charge to make that Mod? Of course I'll pay(paypal) for all the needed stuff(I'll ship you my H50)... I really want a mod like yours. I can't risk it my self I know I'll mess it up.

I attached my crappy/sucky set up pic from inside eheheee


Core i7's run quite a bit hotter then PII especially overclocked. I know those load temps might look hot to you AMD guys but I can assure that the other water cooled i7 guys would say my temps are very good. Hell I know they are good when I compare them to other peoples who have near the same OC. 4.2ghz with 1.33vcore puts out quite a lot of heat.

Sorry man but don't really the time (nor patience lol) to mod another H50... mine was hard enough.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
Holy crap!!! I've just got four words for you....."cable management" and "zip ties". Wow









Heheheee =P I'll do that better when I upgrade my PSU & Case

For now, soon I'll do the organization I've been too lazy... I need to take out my motherboard to be able to fix my cable mess through all the *case holes, and use zip ties correctly(I just used them to hold my H50 up there & the colored 120mm Fan behind the Hard Drive).


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sexybastard* 
Core i7's run quite a bit hotter then PII especially overclocked. I know those load temps might look hot to you AMD guys but I can assure that the other water cooled i7 guys would say my temps are very good. Hell I know they are good when I compare them to other peoples who have near the same OC. 4.2ghz with 1.33vcore puts out quite a lot of heat.

Sorry man but don't really the time (nor patience lol) to mod another H50... mine was hard enough.









now I understand it, Intel is more Heat(it can handle it more)... so certainly if I made a mod similar to yours I would go even lower than what i currently have

no problem, I think I'm going to buy another H50 and try to do it my self. Can you give me the exact names of the things I need?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sexybastard* 
Sorry man but don't really the time (nor patience lol) to mod another H50... mine was hard enough.

Aww come on SB... where's your sense of adventure?









Mind you, I think you would make an absolute killing if you did. I know i would buy one from you ($$$$)


----------



## kermit101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sexybastard* 
Core i7's run quite a bit hotter then PII especially overclocked. I know those load temps might look hot to you AMD guys but I can assure that the other water cooled i7 guys would say my temps are very good. Hell I know they are good when I compare them to other peoples who have near the same OC. 4.2ghz with 1.33vcore puts out quite a lot of heat.

Sorry man but don't really the time (nor patience lol) to mod another H50... mine was hard enough.

Nice job on that mod. I'll be doing a res mod soon and I'll post pictures this weekend.


----------



## Killhouse

I'll try and make this the last time that I bump the
Mod of the Month Competition

I'm in the running with my scratch acrylic build "Paroxysm" and the votes are tight!


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


I'll try and make this the last time that I bump the
Mod of the Month Competition

I'm in the running with my scratch acrylic build "Paroxysm" and the votes are tight!


voted for you and not because of you being the Don of this thread lol

thought your build was the most impressive in terms of building your own case and doing it in a manner that makes it looks super expensive and professional.


----------



## Chunderface

Hey guys im planning on getting a h50 when i get my CM 690 II Advanced but would it be better to mount it on the inside top-back of the case or the back exhaust, thanks.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chunderface*


Hey guys im planning on getting a h50 when i get my CM 690 II Advanced but would it be better to mount it on the inside top-back of the case or the back exhaust, thanks.


Probably wont make a difference, but experimentation is the best way to find this out


----------



## arbalest

*SEXYBASTARD,*

have your temps dropped dramatically at load with the twin radiator setup? YOu might have already mentioned it, but I didn't see it skimming through...

Thanks,

Arbalest


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*









now I understand it, Intel is more Heat(it can handle it more)... so certainly if I made a mod similar to yours I would go even lower than what i currently have

no problem, I think I'm going to buy another H50 and try to do it my self. Can you give me the exact names of the things I need?


You dont need to do that. You can save yourself a bunch of money if you just buy a 120 mm radiator (which is what he did), the correct size tubing and fittings as well as a micro-res. Im guessing the mod will cost somewhere are ~75-80 USD.
Edit: http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcqposerab2.html
I think thats the same radiator had and its pretty cheap


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


*SEXYBASTARD,*

have your temps dropped dramatically at load with the twin radiator setup? YOu might have already mentioned it, but I didn't see it skimming through...

Thanks,

Arbalest


It is the tiny little remark under his build pics


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


It is the tiny little remark under his build pics










Thank you much! Just saw it!

Definitely gonna try this if I can find another H50 Rad on the cheap









Yes, I will go H50 Rad, just so I have a matched set, and for a more OEM look


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


Can you give me the exact names of the things I need?


Yes sir. I am just gonna post links to the first site that pops up on google but that doesn't mean its not available else where for cheaper.


micro res
1/4" danger den barbs
1/4" ID tubing - can't find link but can be found at home depot for a few bucks
and any 120mm radiator. I used a Koolance Rad but I suppose any would work fine.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Aww come on SB... where's your sense of adventure?









Mind you, I think you would make an absolute killing if you did. I know i would buy one from you ($$$$)












Quote:



Originally Posted by *kermit101*


Nice job on that mod. I'll be doing a res mod soon and I'll post pictures this weekend.
























thanks and post pics for sure! we love h50 pr0n









Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


*SEXYBASTARD,*

have your temps dropped dramatically at load with the twin radiator setup? YOu might have already mentioned it, but I didn't see it skimming through...

Thanks,

Arbalest


about 10c over the stock h50


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


Thank you much! Just saw it!

Definitely gonna try this if I can find another H50 Rad on the cheap









Yes, I will go H50 Rad, just so I have a matched set, and for a more OEM look










I am planning on going ghetto with one of these. 
Physical Size: 9 3/4 x 6 x 2 (all inches, so basically a double thick butt ugly 240mm rad).









Was thinking of replacing the H50 rad. If the pump cant handle it, well then plan B.

Speaking of plan B. Is it possible to use the H50 block without its pump, or remove the pump from the block? In case the heater core is too restrictive I am thinking of just getting a decent pump, but would like to use the H50 block still to limit costs, if possible.


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


I am planning on going ghetto with one of these. 
Physical Size: 9 3/4 x 6 x 2 (all inches, so basically a double thick butt ugly 240mm rad).









Was thinking of replacing the H50 rad. If the pump cant handle it, well then plan B.

Speaking of plan B. I*s it possible to use the H50 block without its pump, or remove the pump from the block?* In case the heater core is too restrictive I am thinking of just getting a decent pump, but would like to use the H50 block still to limit costs, if possible.


I was wondering the same thing, anyone whether or not it would work?


----------



## sendblink23

Thanks, I'll get these Rad, Micro res, 1/4 danger den barbs & 1/4" ID tubing from Home Depot =P


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


Speaking of plan B. Is it possible to use the H50 block without its pump, or remove the pump from the block? In case the heater core is too restrictive I am thinking of just getting a decent pump, but would like to use the H50 block still to limit costs, if possible.


IDK, but I think you should find out!









I imagine it is very possible, as long as you seal any holes left over from removing the pump... Just from tearing it apart and what I saw, I imagine that's all there will be to it.


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


Thanks, I'll get these Rad, Micro res, 1/4 danger den barbs & 1/4" ID tubing from Home Depot =P


yep just remember you need to get four 1/4" barbs - 2 for the res and 2 for the new rad.

edit: looks PTS includes 1/4" barbs with that res.


----------



## wAN

You can add me... you can see my specs in my system and in my signature..
Using the supplied fan and the case fan in push pull exhaust.
Happy ever after. System overclocked and stable 24/7


----------



## Evtron

are the scythe GT-AP15's good for a push/pull config on the H50?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evtron*


are the scythe GT-AP15's good for a push/pull config on the H50?


Yes. I highly recommend them! =)


----------



## mike44njdevils

Mine is in the mail right now. Rig should be built and benchmarking by this weekend. I'd like to take numbers and readings stock vs H50 @ stock speeds and a moderate overclock. I won't be insulted if I'm not added to the list before pics and numbers.


----------



## staryoshi

Mine came today, woo! Will set it up tomorrow.


----------



## Sethy666

One of the perennial questions asked on this thread is 'which fans should I use?'

I thought I would put together a specification matrix of the most common / popular fans used by the H50 community here.

This list is by no means exhaustive, Im sure there are fans that I have not listed. It is my intention that this list can be used by members as a ready reckoner and give users an indication of basic spec, so an informed decision can be made based on there system.

Moving forward, I envisage this list can be expanded in an attempt to cover all fans that can be used with the Corsair H50.

http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=tKxCc4XDT5mmyF-LDGrOIpA&w=75&h=500 Google Spreadsheet

Feel free to advise me of fans that Ive missed









Enjoy and I trust you find it useful.


----------



## Killhouse

Great job Sethy, I'll try and incorporate this onto the front page somehow/sometime


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


One of the perennial questions asked on this thread is 'which fans should I use?'

I thought I would put together a specification matrix of the most common / popular fans used by the H50 community here.

This list is by no means exhaustive, Im sure there are fans that I have not listed. It is my intention that this list can be used by members as a ready reckoner and give users an indication of basic spec, so an informed decision can be made based on there system.

Moving forward, I envisage this list can be expanded in an attempt to cover all fans that can be used with the Corsair H50.










Feel free to add fans that you may be using that Ive missed









Enjoy and I trust you find it useful.

The enclosed spreadsheet has the fan links embedded.


Which Panaflow is that in the table? I have: NMB-MAT FBA12G12L-BX 120X38mm - 30 dba - 1700RPM - 68.9 CFM

It cools nicely


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Great job Sethy, I'll try and incorporate this onto the front page somehow/sometime










No worries mate - thanks

BTW, I visited the *MOD OF THE MONTH* site... its still close









Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblick23*

Which Panaflow is that in the table? I have: NMB-MAT FBA12G12L-BX 120X38mm - 30 dba - 1700RPM - 68.9 CFM


FBA12G12U1BX - 
Quote:



http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-004-_-Product


Files updated


----------



## Aqualoon

Just bought one today, not happy with my current cooler. I'm thinking because of how large it is that it's restricting the airflow of my case. Looking forward to seeing how the smaller H50 does with a PnP setup.


----------



## looser101

The Gentle Typhoon 1850 is only 58cfm. The number you posted is in cubic meters.

I've tried alot of fans and fan combos and two things immediately came to mind. 1) Manufacturers specs should be used as a guideline as to its possible performance and not a given. In other words don't choose your fans based on specs. 2) Many fans have high cfm ratings but can't maintain their cfm rating through the rad. Fans with many curved, cupped blades, seem to perform best for a given rpm.

So if you have a fan in mind spend a little time researching how well it works with a radiator.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


The Gentle Typhoon 1850 is only 58cfm. The number you posted is in cubic meters.

So if you have a fan in mind spend a little time researching how well it works with a radiator.


Yes, you are right, I stand corrected. Ive updated the spread sheet.

Always good advice


----------



## the.ronin

For those of you doing the push / pull, are you splicing both fan wires into the CPU fan header?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *the.ronin*


For those of you doing the push / pull, are you splicing both fan wires into the CPU fan header?


No, I havent spliced the P/P fan wires.

Having said that, I have spliced some of my other *case *fans.

I have the pull fan going to the CPU fan header and the push goes to another 12v fan header.

Alternatively, you can use a fan controller / molex fan connector to power them.

Also,

You can use this link to add your system specs.

Quote:



http://www.overclock.net/specs.php?do=addsystem


----------



## the.ronin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


I have the pull fan going to the CPU fan header and the pull goes to another 12v fan header.


Can you clarify which is being fed through the CPU_fan and the reasoning?

Thanks and thanks for the heads up on the sys specs. Will fill out.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *the.ronin*


Can you clarify which is being fed through the CPU_fan and the reasoning?

Thanks and thanks for the heads up on the sys specs. Will fill out.










I have the *pull *fan going to the CPU fan header and the *push *goes to another 12v fan header. <sorry, I just noted my error>

Reason is so I can monitor speeds through speedfan. If you do this, you need to disable the CPU fan smart / auto option in BIOS to keep the fan at max speed.


----------



## the.ronin

Thanks, Seth.

This is kind of annoying. I just replaced the H50 fan (push / exhaust) with two Enermax Marathon fans in push / pull and I'm not seeing any temp improvements. Actually it got worst haha.

Push

Core 0 - 66
Core 1 - 65
Core 2 - 64
Core 3 - 60

Push / Pull

Core 0 - 68
Core 1 - 68
Core 2 - 66
Core 3 - 62

I know the Akasa fan Corsair includes pushes 50 cfm and the Enermax, although quieter, pushes 40 cfm but I'd expect at least some improvement - certainly not deterioration.

I'm cooling an i7 920 stock speed.


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *the.ronin* 
Thanks, Seth.

This is kind of annoying. I just replaced the H50 fan (push / exhaust) with two Enermax Marathon fans in push / pull and I'm not seeing any temp improvements. Actually it got worst haha.

Push

Core 0 - 66
Core 1 - 65
Core 2 - 64
Core 3 - 60

Push / Pull

Core 0 - 68
Core 1 - 68
Core 2 - 66
Core 3 - 62

I know the Akasa fan Corsair includes pushes 50 cfm and the Enermax, although quieter, pushes 40 cfm but I'd expect at least some improvement - certainly not deterioration.

I'm cooling an i7 920 stock speed.

I have a similar setup as you, curious where did you plug the pump into?


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*


I have a similar setup as you, curious where did you plug the pump into?


Try intake and see what kind of temps you get. Im hoping that these temps are all with prime95 going right?
Also what are your ambient temps inside of your case?


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Feel free to advise me of fans that Ive missed










The R4 is rated at 90 CFM, I think the one model on CM's website is marked wrong. All the packaging says 90 too. Also, the noise is 32dba at 2000RPM (well I'll be damned if I can get 2k, mine mostly read about 1850). They also have quite a big range, I run mine comfortably at 800RPM (35% PWM). They are pretty silent up to about 1200-1400RPM which is good for pressure.

The Corsair fan also goes down to 600RPM @ 35% PWM.

You might want to add a static pressure and price column too (maybe a power rating too).


----------



## the.ronin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*


I have a similar setup as you, curious where did you plug the pump into?


Into a fan header (as opposed to directly to a molex).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dude120*


Try intake and see what kind of temps you get. Im hoping that these temps are all with prime95 going right?
Also what are your ambient temps inside of your case?


Yes, these are under Prime95 In-place large FFTs. System temp is about 29.

I will try intake just out of curiosity but I don't think I'd ever leave it at that. I suspect it might have something to do with the Enermax vs the Akasa fans. Having brought everything back to the way it was, I notice the Akasas are spinning at 1300 rpm (no load) while the Enermax barely topped out at 980. The cfm difference might be whats wrong.


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *the.ronin*


Into a fan header (as opposed to directly to a molex).

Yes, these are under Prime95 In-place large FFTs. System temp is about 29.

I will try intake just out of curiosity but I don't think I'd ever leave it at that. I suspect it might have something to do with the Enermax vs the Akasa fans. Having brought everything back to the way it was, I notice the Akasas are spinning at 1300 rpm (no load) while the Enermax barely topped out at 980. The cfm difference might be whats wrong.


At 3.0 GHz on an i7 920 my load temps are 56-50C between all cores, running prime 95 for a few hours. I got some no-name fans off of a hardware store and they work like a charm too. Anyways, for me intake has lower ambient temps in the case because my i7 runs relatively cool at around 36-31c idle, and sucking in cold outside air seems to be benefiting other components. As strange as it sounds, its working great, even though it sounds like somewhat of a counterproductive measure.


----------



## trivium nate

ive got an H50 to!!! its pretty sweet

my computers fan setup is like this:

2 fans on top suckin air out
1 in back sucking air into H50 another on the other side sucking air through so basically 1 fan pulling air into h50 and another sucking air out of it i guess
1 on bottom sucking air out
1 on side sucking air out
1 in front sucking air in

the first fan sucking air into the H50 is plugged into a molex thing
the fan on the other side of the H50 is plugged into CPU fan
the pump is plugged into pwr fan

heres pics

























do you think its setup good?


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dude120*


At 3.0 GHz on an i7 920 my load temps are 56-50C between all cores, running prime 95 for a few hours. I got some no-name fans off of a hardware store and they work like a charm too. Anyways, for me intake has lower ambient temps in the case because my i7 runs relatively cool at around 36-31c idle, and sucking in cold outside air seems to be benefiting other components. As strange as it sounds, its working great, even though it sounds like somewhat of a counterproductive measure.










I to have a 920 @ 3Ghz. My loads temps are around yours but my idle is way lower than what yours is, +10Â°C lower. I'm guessing around the low 70Â°F for your ambient temperature. So let me get this right your H50's in intake? If so flip it, and and a few things to your case. Add a drive bay 5.25" intake fan, then add a shroud. You can get all that plus more at the *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink*. Check out what I did on my rig:


























More info on Asetek coolers:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


Asetek makes the H50. Asetek also makes there own brand coolers. There is the Asetek LCLC and the Asetek LCLC 240MM Radiator. From what I understand the H50 has water inside them and the Asetek brand has a some sort of a liquid cooling fluid. Check some other Asetek coolers, NorthQ, Maingear, Alienware, HP, and others. Again Corasir doesn't even make the H50, Asetek does. The engineers who make the H50 recommend the their unit to be in exhaust, for good reason to. I say listen to a trained engineer, not a untrained benchmarker at Corsair. The intake vs exhaust is more based on your GFX card and Case. Corsair recommends intake, but Asetek the company who actually makes the H50 recommends exhaust. Like I said it really has to do with your GFX card and case. If you have a GFX with an air handler that blows hot air out the rear of your case. Its a good idea to have the H50 in exhaust. If you have a Vapor-X type of GFX card with no air handler, its better to be intake. Also do you have a place for that hot air to go once its in your PC case. For the guys who have an air handlers on their GFX cards and their H50s in intake, need to be warned. Do to the season and AC'd rooms, hot air from your GFX card is mixing with the cool air inside the radiator of the H50. This mixing creates condensation. That condensation is moisture that is now being blowing into your PC. But don't pay me no mind, feel free to try any way you like, and post about it. That's what this site is here for.

"*Asetek's factory sealed liquid cooling system is specifically designed to exhaust CPU heat directly outside of the chassis.*" - Asetek


----------



## Lord

hi,

i am going to buy corsair h50 cooler today.

I wanted to know if I need to put TIM on my h50 or does it comes with a TIM on it as stock?

Thanks.


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lord*


hi,

i am going to buy corsair h50 cooler today.

I wanted to know if I need to put TIM on my h50 or does it comes with a TIM on it as stock?

Thanks.



Read this:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


The stock piece of thermal tape on the back of the H50 is Shin Etsu, this is a very good TIM (Thermal Interface Material) and normally ranks above your normal cheaper candidates (MX3 or AS5). Of course, the tape on the H50 is no use if you've used it already and need to reseat the H50. Most people just use AS5 or MX3, myself included, because it's cheap and can be used many times - both these thermal pastes have a curing time so you may think that your results are terrible when you first apply, give it some time. If you want to get the same thermal paste you want to look for Shin Etsu, it's normally harder to find and more expensive but will probably yield slightly better temperatures - it also has no curing time. Results and comparisons vary a lot, but if you want to improve on Shin Etsu one option could be IC Diamond 7. Again, it's hard to find and more expensive but you may find that it performs better than anything previously mentioned. Shin Etsu and ICD7 are very close in performance and different reviews will tell you that Shin Etsu is better. Of the many members in this post and on the Corsair forums nobody has tried using Indigo extreme on an H50, although I believe that the latest batch of products from Indigo would be compatible with the hot-plate style of the H50. If your stock thermal paste has run out, then the cheap alternatives are AS5 and MX3, the expensive replacements would be Shin Etsu (the same stuff which you get in the first place) or ICD7.


----------



## rchads89

Right today am going to buy a Corsair H50-1 which fans shall i buy i was thinking of the Akasa AK-FN058 Apache Black Super Silent?? If not what would you buy? btw how the hell are you lot connecting the 2 fans up from the top left hand side of the case you using extensions?? N also how are you connecting this push/pull configuration?

Thanks


----------



## Psyborg

I got an installed an H50 yesterday so I'd like to join the club









But I do have a question regarding the h50. My idle and load temps are a bit higher than my TRUE, which I didn't expect. I'm sitting at 3.2ghz right now and idling in the upper 30s with ~20 degree ambient temps. Load temp is also about 3 degrees higher than with the TRUE. Is there some cure time i should expect before temps improve? Are my fans just not sufficient (I have two antec tri-cools in push pull exhausting from the back of my 1200 at the moment)? I'm starting to think my processor is just a heat pig and I'm just not going to have decent temps regardless of what I do. I did check and the block is seated as well as can be expected.


----------



## PCSarge

i think i broke the top intel overclock record for this chip today... hitting an astounding *4.0ghz* stable, prime95 has been running *small fft's for 3 hrs* and no problems yet, will run linpack later this cpu's *stock clock is 2.8ghz*

P.S: my H50 is keeping it at *38C idle* *56C load*


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


The R4 is rated at 90 CFM, I think the one model on CM's website is marked wrong. All the packaging says 90 too. Also, the noise is 32dba at 2000RPM (well I'll be damned if I can get 2k, mine mostly read about 1850). They also have quite a big range, I run mine comfortably at 800RPM (35% PWM). They are pretty silent up to about 1200-1400RPM which is good for pressure.

The Corsair fan also goes down to 600RPM @ 35% PWM.

You might want to add a static pressure and price column too (maybe a power rating too).


The R4 isn't really a 90CM fan, maybe 2/3s that at best imo... It moves a lot of air but has no static pressure from my understanding. I have about 6 of them heh. I usually run them as low as my Zalman MFC1 Plus controller will go







But the LEDs are too dim to be appreciated at that speed









I have two 1450RPM GentleTyphoons coming today so I'll set up the H50 and give it a ride when I get home









Also what's the best way to orient the block/radiator? I would think that one would want the tubing below the radiator so more heat is drawn upward and away from the returning water... eh?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Psyborg* 
I got an installed an H50 yesterday so I'd like to join the club









But I do have a question regarding the h50. My idle and load temps are a bit higher than my TRUE, which I didn't expect. I'm sitting at 3.2ghz right now and idling in the upper 30s with ~20 degree ambient temps. Load temp is also about 3 degrees higher than with the TRUE. Is there some cure time i should expect before temps improve? Are my fans just not sufficient (I have two antec tri-cools in push pull exhausting from the back of my 1200 at the moment)? I'm starting to think my processor is just a heat pig and I'm just not going to have decent temps regardless of what I do. I did check and the block is seated as well as can be expected.

_

Added_. Your temps do sound a little high although I know nothing about Intel temperatures







I used to use an antec tri-cool with the Corsair fan and had mediocre results, but I couldnt wait to replace the fans and I'm glad I did. The noise and temperature results were fantastic.


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i think i broke the top intel overclock record for this chip today... hitting an astounding *4.0ghz* stable, prime95 has been running *small fft's for 3 hrs* and no problems yet, will run linpack later this cpu's *stock clock is 2.8ghz*

P.S: my H50 is keeping it at *38C idle* *56C load*


Sorry but proof? VALIDATION?


----------



## Danny Boy

how well would this cool a 550BE unlocked? this thing looks interesting to say the least


----------



## Ocnewb

Anyone know what type of the Adhesive tape which comes with the H50 to put on the back of the backplate and where i can buy them? Thanks and rep+ for you







.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ocnewb* 
Anyone know what type of the Adhesive tape which comes with the H50 to put on the back of the backplate and where i can buy them? Thanks and rep+ for you







.

It's just 3M double sided tape. You can buy it pretty much anywhere, Walmart, Home Depot (I use them alot), Target, Hobby Lobby, etc...

Hope that helps


----------



## ChronosWing

I will be joining this club tomorrow after the rest of my stuff gets here for my case mod, just a quick question I'm running a Phenom II X4 940 BE overclocked to 3.6, I want to see if these temps sound good, it idles at 34c and ramps up to 44c under load. I'll get some pics of my system tomorrow, but all the info is in my sig.


----------



## sendblink23

For PCSarge: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=467434

Beat That!


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rchads89* 
Right today am going to buy a Corsair H50-1 which fans shall i buy i was thinking of the Akasa AK-FN058 Apache Black Super Silent?? If not what would you buy? btw how the hell are you lot connecting the 2 fans up from the top left hand side of the case you using extensions?? N also how are you connecting this push/pull configuration?

Thanks









I would love to see how those Apache Black's work on this H50. Not the Super Silent's, but, the Silent's.


----------



## PC Gamer

Hey I was wondering would I see a good improvement in temps if I switched from 2 corsair fans to 2 cm r4 fans? Also what should the pump be at mine is apparently running at 1400rpm is that ok? Also my pc has been on for about a day and right now I'm getting 39.5 C temp on the processor which seems way to high for a stock clocked amd 940 right? i'm running the push pull as exhaust. I'm sure these questions have been asked a dozen of times ,but I would apperciate anyones help.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PC Gamer* 
Hey I was wondering would I see a good improvement in temps if I switched from 2 corsair fans to 2 cm r4 fans? Also what should the pump be at mine is apparently running at 1400rpm is that ok? Also my pc has been on for about a day and right now I'm getting 39.5 C temp on the processor which seems way to high for a stock clocked amd 940 right? i'm running the push pull as exhaust. I'm sure these questions have been asked a dozen of times ,but I would apperciate anyones help.

Since you have a Vapor-X 4890, your case is going to be filled with heat from that. Doing exhaust only pushes hot air through your rad and out of the case. With your setup, you might see an improvement if you run intake since colder air would go into your case (unless you don't have any other exhaust fans, in that case I wouldn't recommend intake).

The r4 fans are 90cfm actually so you might see 5C drop with changing both fans and a 10C drop if you switch to intake.


----------



## PC Gamer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Since you have a Vapor-X 4890, your case is going to be filled with heat from that. Doing exhaust only pushes hot air through your rad and out of the case. With your setup, you might see an improvement if you run intake since colder air would go into your case (unless you don't have any other exhaust fans, in that case I wouldn't recommend intake).

The r4 fans are 90cfm actually so you might see 5C drop with changing both fans and a 10C drop if you switch to intake.

Thank you very much I think I'm going to switch to intake then b/c I do have 2x120mm fans exhausting on the top which I think can handle the load. Rep+


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PC Gamer* 
Thank you very much I think I'm going to switch to intake then b/c I do have 2x120mm fans exhausting on the top which I think can handle the load. Rep+

See, cards like the Vapor-X exhaust into the case quite a bit since they don't have the whole side of the card covered up, unlike the stock blower style fans, so a lot of heat must be going into your case (I have a 4890 Vapor-X too and it is a lot hotter than both my 5850 reference and my 4870 reference (even though a lot quieter).


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
Sorry but proof? VALIDATION?









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1027131

theres your validation, but cpuZ is reading the voltage wrong... its only at 1.42 lol


----------



## rchads89

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
I would love to see how those Apache Black's work on this H50. Not the Super Silent's, but, the Silent's.









Both more or less the same... 1300 RPM the super silents are. They claim a extra 30 more % than other fans running at the same speed so should be sweet.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


For PCSarge: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=467434

Beat That!










i can near gurantee that wasnt stable, cause i started at 4.5 andended up dropping down to 4.0
my 4.0 passes OCCT linpack on max for 10 hrs and prime 95 small FFT's for 12 hrs


----------



## Psyborg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


_

Added_. Your temps do sound a little high although I know nothing about Intel temperatures







I used to use an antec tri-cool with the Corsair fan and had mediocre results, but I couldnt wait to replace the fans and I'm glad I did. The noise and temperature results were fantastic.


I have a pair of yate loons that are higher CFM, I'll give those a try when I get back from vacation. Don't want to monkey with the computer before heading out for vacation. The temps seem better today, but still not as good as my TRUE was giving me. I'll try yate loons with a shroud and see how it compares then.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Psyborg*


I have a pair of yate loons that are higher CFM, I'll give those a try when I get back from vacation. Don't want to monkey with the computer before heading out for vacation. The temps seem better today, but still not as good as my TRUE was giving me. I'll try yate loons with a shroud and see how it compares then.


Depends on the yate loons, what type are they? Some of them are excellent case fans but not so good on the heatsinks/radiators.

You will definetely get better results than a TRUE when you pump some more air through it. Maybe you should look at the airflow through your case, maybe take a pic for us and we can help you out more.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Woot!! Coolermaster Haf 932 coming here this second with i7 860, Gigabyte P55A-UD4P, OCZ Platinum Low Voltage 2x2GB DDR3-1600 (PC-12800) (CL7) Dual Channel Memory Kit and an Antec 300 for my current rig!!


----------



## PCSarge

nice choice in case guitarguy, you wont be dissapointed, thoughi might add, if you want high airflow, fill all the slots with c4's (4 on the side panel intake, 2 on top as exhaust, 1 out the back exhaust) youll see a definent drop in temps ( i shaved about 6C off)


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


nice choice in case guitarguy, you wont be dissapointed, thoughi might add, if you want high airflow, fill all the slots with c4's (4 on the side panel intake, 2 on top as exhaust, 1 out the back exhaust) youll see a definent drop in temps ( i shaved about 6C off)


Thanks!

How many C4s did you put in to shave off 6C? All? or all of the open fan holes that didn't already have a fan?


----------



## Psyborg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Depends on the yate loons, what type are they? Some of them are excellent case fans but not so good on the heatsinks/radiators.

You will definetely get better results than a TRUE when you pump some more air through it. Maybe you should look at the airflow through your case, maybe take a pic for us and we can help you out more.



The Yate's are these: http://www.xoxide.com/yate-loon-highspeed-120.html

And if those don't help I'll see about getting some pictures uploaded. They have good CFM, but if you've heard those aren't a good choice for CPU cooling let me know, I think they were suggested to me by someone previously, but I'm always open. I could get some S-flex G's maybe instead if the Yate's aren't good for that.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Psyborg*


The Yate's are these: http://www.xoxide.com/yate-loon-highspeed-120.html

And if those don't help I'll see about getting some pictures uploaded. They have good CFM, but if you've heard those aren't a good choice for CPU cooling let me know, I think they were suggested to me by someone previously, but I'm always open. I could get some S-flex G's maybe instead if the Yate's aren't good for that.


Theyre alright, by no means bad. You could realise some awesome potential with a 38 or 55mm fan though









As I say though, the cooling power is a function of your case airflow too. You wont be able to get any cooler if your graphics card is pumping hot air straight onto the radiator!


----------



## dude120

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
I to have a 920 @ 3Ghz. My loads temps are around yours but my idle is way lower than what yours is, +10Â°C lower. I'm guessing around the low 70Â°F for your ambient temperature. So let me get this right your H50's in intake? If so flip it, and and a few things to your case. Add a drive bay 5.25" intake fan, then add a shroud. You can get all that plus more at the *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink*. Check out what I did on my rig:


























More info on Asetek coolers:

I plan to add a shroud or two, but it will unfortunately require a great deal of case modification. Heres some pictures, ive attached fan to the outside drawing air into the case:









and the heatsink in my EVGA x58 board is blocking my ability to add a shroud.
-picture coming soon- whenever my camera decides to start working again


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dude120* 
I plan to add a shroud or two, but it will *fortunately* require a great deal of case modification.

Fix't!


----------



## dude120

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Fix't!









I like modifying the computer and the case but i dont have the time at the moment. Does anyone have any ideas as to how to attach a shroud to that?


----------



## Killhouse

Shroud's dont have to be 100% solid. What you could do is install the second fan beyond the heatsink using extra long screws and some locking bolts.

Then use tape to fill in the gap, which would flex around the heatsink.

The foreseeable problem with this is that the VRs will overheat because there is a block of tape on top of them. So what I would do is cut the tape to match the size of the heatsink, so that it poked through into the shroud. This would require some careful tape-cutting but I think it would work.

If you feel confident enough to make this shroud out of something solid such as aluminium or acrylic - then even better


----------



## dude120

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Shroud's dont have to be 100% solid. What you could do is install the second fan beyond the heatsink using extra long screws and some locking bolts.

Then use tape to fill in the gap, which would flex around the heatsink.

The foreseeable problem with this is that the VRs will overheat because there is a block of tape on top of them. So what I would do is cut the tape to match the size of the heatsink, so that it poked through into the shroud. This would require some careful tape-cutting but I think it would work.

If you feel confident enough to make this shroud out of something solid such as aluminium or acrylic - then even better










So on the outside, the case side curls in and makes it difficult to put a shroud there (heck it was extremely difficult to put the fan there where it is)








and on the inside, the heatsink on the motherboard is preventing my ability to put a shroud there.
(Heres a pic to explain what i was saying
















Ambient temps are 17-19C and they are intake at the moment.
Heres a pic of the inside of the case:








I know your all jealous of my awesome cable management(best i can do till i take a dremel to the case)


----------



## Killhouse

Thats an interesting problem









It almost looks like a fan would fit on top of the heatsink - maybe if you modded the fan (ie. cut some holes in the side of it) the fan would fit?


----------



## dude120

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Thats an interesting problem









It almost looks like a fan would fit on top of the heatsink - maybe if you modded the fan (ie. cut some holes in the side of it) the fan would fit?

Maybe, I didnt think of that. How do you think that would affect the airflow of the fan though?
If it really comes down to it, i can mount it above(in order to attain the space for the shrouds), but I'd rather not.


----------



## Killhouse

It shouldnt affect the fan too much (I mean cutting the corners off and sanding away at the plastic). I would avoid making a hole right through if you can help it.


----------



## dude120

I just checked, it wouldnt work, it would end up interfering with the blades, most likely. I guess I could make an extra long shroud, but it would most likely be right up against the H50 pump, lol
I dunno if cutting off the corners would help much because of the fact the the fan would really be sitting right on the heatsink.


----------



## Killhouse

I think it would be alright up against the pump with a really long shroud - but it might not be worth it. Did you say the fan grill on the outside of the case bends outwards? I know that many people dremel it off completely.


----------



## sora1607

Just bought this baby. I sure hope I know how to configure this and maximize its potential when it comes lol


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sora1607* 
Just bought this baby. I sure hope I know how to configure this and maximize its potential when it comes lol

Post some pics when it comes







We can help you all the way with configurationalizing the maximumily potentialness.


----------



## dude120

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I think it would be alright up against the pump with a really long shroud - but it might not be worth it. Did you say the fan grill on the outside of the case bends outwards? I know that many people dremel it off completely.

The case itself has some weird plastic part, which resembles the rest of the body of the case and that curves in, making it real difficult to install a fan, less a shroud.


----------



## sora1607

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Post some pics when it comes







We can help you all the way with configurationalizing the maximumily potentialness.










Yea I have to move my back fan to the front now. This should make my comp feel very nice







. Will get pics up as soon as it gets installed.... which will pro'bly be awhile


----------



## Psyborg

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Theyre alright, by no means bad. You could realise some awesome potential with a 38 or 55mm fan though









As I say though, the cooling power is a function of your case airflow too. You wont be able to get any cooler if your graphics card is pumping hot air straight onto the radiator!

I suspect that could be part of the problem maybe. With the two cards in SLI below it the air inside the case gets warm.

The case is a 1200 with one extra fan in the front and an one in the side panel. Back fans and top are on exhaust. I could easily boost the top exhanst fans to high speed and use the bottom for intake instead through the h50 if that might result in cooler air.


----------



## Dippity

My new i7 920
Signature has stats on the system...















Or at least it should...


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
The R4 is rated at 90 CFM, I think the one model on CM's website is marked wrong. All the packaging says 90 too. Also, the noise is 32dba at 2000RPM (well I'll be damned if I can get 2k, mine mostly read about 1850). They also have quite a big range, I run mine comfortably at 800RPM (35% PWM). They are pretty silent up to about 1200-1400RPM which is good for pressure.

The Corsair fan also goes down to 600RPM @ 35% PWM.

You might want to add a static pressure and price column too (maybe a power rating too).

Thanks Leppie. Ive amended the entry to reflect your info - thanks!

I can only get mine to a lil over 1900 rpm. I guess its that old -/+ 10% thing









Static pressure - good idea. Sometimes its a difficult number to find. So I might leave some blank until I can get that data.
Cost - In what currency would you prefer? LOL... nope, sorry, not going to touch that one


----------



## Killhouse

Just a thought Sethy, I love your table but maybe you could upload it to a google spreadsheet?

We can incorporate it straight into the front page then and it can be updated frequently


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Just a thought Sethy, I love your table but maybe you could upload it to a google spreadsheet?

We can incorporate it straight into the front page then and it can be updated frequently









It already is... I did it yesterday


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
It already is... I did it yesterday









Yesterday, today, its all the same when you're on the wrong side of the world









Whats the link? I will add it when I update the page tomorrow.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Yesterday, today, its all the same when you're on the wrong side of the world









Whats the link? I will add it when I update the page tomorrow.

Hahaha... I love time travel









Ive PMed you with the link.


----------



## staryoshi

Should the pipes come out of the bottom of the block? I have mine oriented semi upside-down and the temps are very unimpressive... 46-52C stock Prime after only 5 mins and 67-70C with the overclock in the same amount of time. Fans are full blast and obnoxious... used in a HAF 922 with 4 intake fans and two fans above exhausting, in a push-pull intake config with two 1450RPM GentleTyphoons...

Ambient temp is 18C. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, cause it's getting spanked by my CNPSX Flex Push-Pull... Not really spanked, but it's no improvement at load and is worse idle


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *staryoshi*


Should the pipes come out of the bottom of the block? I have mine oriented semi upside-down and the temps are very unimpressive... 46-52C stock Prime after only 5 mins and 67-70C with the overclock in the same amount of time. Fans are full blast and obnoxious... used in a HAF 922 with 4 intake fans and two fans above exhausting, in a push-pull intake config with two 1450RPM GentleTyphoons...

Ambient temp is 18C. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, cause it's getting spanked by my CNPSX Flex Push-Pull... Not really spanked, but it's no improvement at load and is worse idle










The position of the pump shouldnt make a difference (I assume thats what your referring too).

It may be a seating problem. As nice as this cooler is, seating it flat and even can be tricky. Its a common problem.

All things being equal,, even at your OC, your temps should be lower.


----------



## xmisery

^-- The orientation of the tubes doesn't make a difference from what I've seen. Yeah, it could be a seating issue or maybe even a pump issue. Also, make sure you have the pump running at 100% (~1450rpm's). If you do end up re-seating it, try to screw the pump down in a cross-(X) pattern using 1-2 turns per screw until all 4 are tight.


----------



## staryoshi

Am I supposed to hear it running? I hear a persistent noise like a sccchwwwwiirrrrrr and it's fairly annoying. I'll try to re-seat it and orient it as an exhaust, but so far I'm kinda disappointed







Pump appeared to be running around 1380RPM at full speed.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i can near gurantee that wasnt stable, cause i started at 4.5 andended up dropping down to 4.0
my 4.0 passes OCCT linpack on max for 10 hrs and prime 95 small FFT's for 12 hrs


eheheh







remember not all processors or mobo's act the same as others or even if they are the same... in other words other people could probably go way higher than you stable or way lower than you stable... its simply just *Pure Luck* ... but wte That was back in 2008 *2 years ago... no clue if that guy is still around to ask (pretty sure that guy had good water cooling) =P but anyways that is really good overclocking where you are at.

Anyways jumping out of subject....

Guys buuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu I hit a Huge BUMP!!! I'm pretty sure its my crappy PSU(I hope), because I've been a few days running 4.21Ghz since the very second day of having the H50 stable(did prime95 blend overnight & had also ran Intelsburntest maximum ram 7158mb 5 tests stable & my temp max load was between 50c - 54c, but that was only 1 time i tested them @ that overclock)... well today randomly it started freezing / then I rebooted decided to run Prime95 to see if its all okay... in just only around 35 minutes all the sudden Temps reached around 60c and my PC crashed (turned off, no reboot - power button didn't do anything - i had to unplug wait 1 minute and plug in again to turn it on)

So right after it started, I head inside Bios, set everything to default stock @ 3.41Ghz (200 x 17) made my voltage, rams & everything to Auto. Booted up and ran prime95 again on blend ... no clue but Temps were going way high to around 57c (noticed through Everest the Auto cpu voltage was going up to 1.52) ... so decided to stop reboot / Bios this time setting manually voltage starting from 1.400 booted back into windows this time decided to use Intelsburntest (since its faster for 100% cpu usage & ram is used allot too) same maximum ram 7158mb, 5 tests... this time its max was 52c (its way too high compared to when before, when i used to be on Air cooling - comparing to now having the H50).. so I said wte...

Its time to start all over again overclocking, just leaving the cpu voltage manually @ 1.4 and just only alone changing the cpu multiplier & limiting my self that the highest max load temp should be between 55c - 57c... so kept going up 0.5x (testing each time Intelsburntest max 5 tests) until it gets close to those temps & cause a reboot to my system (if it reboots - set higher the voltage, but paying attention to my max load temps)... after a couple of hours doing stable tests.... well for some reason my current max... 3.90Ghz (200 x 19.5) 1.412v idle @ 32c / max load @ 57c <-- that made me really sad

If I even go higher at 4.01Ghz (200 x 20) I have to up my voltage to 4.275 to be stable(it crashed my system a few minutes on testings @ 1.4125v) and my Temps would reach over 58c probably 60c but I stopped it.. that is way too high so lowered back since for me the one before were reasonable temps for me (even if its still hot, pretty certain i won't run anything nearing close to 75% cpu usage <-- thats around 48c - 50c)








so yeah I'm stuck bumped at 200 x 19.5 - 3.9Ghz - 1.4125v
http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/9901/39ghz14125v.jpg
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1027531

Now hopefully, when my new case arrives CM590, adding all the fans in all available mounting spaces & upgrading my PSU, then I should be able to go higher again over 4ghz stable(and obviously have lower temps).. if not.. pretty certain that could be my Phenom heading to death *over heating* & I should only run it at stock or lower. *Also I would re apply thermal paste again.


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


The position of the pump shouldnt make a difference (I assume thats what your referring too).

It may be a seating problem. As nice as this cooler is, seating it flat and even can be tricky. Its a common problem.

All things being equal,, even at your OC, your temps should be lower.


You think so? I'm seeing a lot of guys with I7's running that hot. I think hes pretty normal for an Intel. Am I wrong?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
You think so? I'm seeing a lot of guys with I7's running that hot. I think hes pretty normal for an Intel. Am I wrong?

No, you are not wrong and the i7 does run hot but temps of 46-52C stock surprise me.

67-70C with the overclock (3.67Ghz) is a smidge high ( I ran mine at 4.05Ghz @ 70c). Others, including Sexybastard is running 4Ghz <70c.

I would suggest that with a good seat and pressure on the pump head he can get lower temps.

Also, with a room ambient of 18c, I would not expect those temps.

The intake configuration should be pulling in that 18c air and logically, be cooling better.


----------



## staryoshi

I tightened this thing tighter than some analogy to no effect. Will try setting it as an exhaust tomorrow. As of right now it's just too loud for the perf. I'm probably going to return it and go back to the CNPSX flex. Also the people who say GentleTyphoons are quiet are bonkers.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *staryoshi* 
I tightened this thing tighter than some analogy to no effect. Will try setting it as an exhaust tomorrow. As of right now it's just too loud for the perf. I'm probably going to return it and go back to the CNPSX flex. Also the people who say GentleTyphoons are quiet are bonkers.

What TIM did you use? Have you tried a re-seat?

The noise may be air bubbles and that will effect your temps. They should dissipate after a while.

Try the exhaust option, it cant hurt. While your at it, try the Corsair stock fan and one of the GT fans... see if that helps.

The GT 1450s dont have that much air push (50ish CFM).

Have look here for fans that are commonly used on the H50;

Quote:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8506253


----------



## pcnuttie

I don't have this wc yet but been reading it for some quite time and i believe the exhaust fan works better than that stupid intake because i know the rad needs air escape out not inside your case, It needs proper airflow. Then again i guess it depends on an person's case and what they are doing. I do notice you're overclocking hard, You need to remember this is not a powerful WC that push further, you'll need a better WC than this to overclock harder. Just my 2 cent. I still wanna buy this and try it but skeptic still.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


I don't have this wc yet but been reading it for some quite time and i believe the exhaust fan works better than that stupid intake because i know the rad needs air escape out not inside your case, It needs proper airflow. Then again i guess it depends on an person's case and what they are doing. I do notice you're overclocking hard, You need to remember this is not a powerful WC that push further, you'll need a better WC than this to overclock harder. Just my 2 cent. I still wanna buy this and try it but skeptic still.


Actually... it does depend on your case's airflow. Im going to reverse my exhaust to intake tonight and see what happens.

Why? Even though its summer and are ambients are hitting low 30c, it will never get as hot as my case.

With the GTX 275 blowing hot air in there, its gets to about 40c.

So, Im going to see what happens.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i can near gurantee that wasnt stable, cause i started at 4.5 andended up dropping down to 4.0
my 4.0 passes OCCT linpack on max for 10 hrs and prime 95 small FFT's for 12 hrs


Nice OC, but my only question... WHY LINPACK FOR 10HRS??!?!























Linpack finds instability VERY QUICKLY! No need for marathon runs with that


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


Nice OC, but my only question... WHY LINPACK FOR 10HRS??!?!























Linpack finds instability VERY QUICKLY! No need for marathon runs with that










Agreed - Linpack for 30-60mins. If its gonna happen, it will happen within that time frame.


----------



## the.ronin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *the.ronin*


Thanks, Seth.

This is kind of annoying. I just replaced the H50 fan (push / exhaust) with two Enermax Marathon fans in push / pull and I'm not seeing any temp improvements. Actually it got worst haha.

Push

Core 0 - 66
Core 1 - 65
Core 2 - 64
Core 3 - 60

Push / Pull

Core 0 - 68
Core 1 - 68
Core 2 - 66
Core 3 - 62

I know the Akasa fan Corsair includes pushes 50 cfm and the Enermax, although quieter, pushes 40 cfm but I'd expect at least some improvement - certainly not deterioration.

I'm cooling an i7 920 *stock speed*.


Ok I decided to change up fans and get some quality thermal paste. Whoa what a difference!!









I've got Prime95 doing in-place large FFTs while I'm writing this and temps haven't gone beyond 57!! That's over 10C lower than my previous craptastic run!

I picked up two Scythe S-Flex fans in a push/pull configuration. I also picked up a tube of Arctic MX-3 ... and this was applied no more than 30 minutes ago so I'd imagine temps would improve slightly once its had a chance to settle.

Time to overclock.


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dude120*


Try intake and see what kind of temps you get. Im hoping that these temps are all with prime95 going right?
Also what are your ambient temps inside of your case?


My temps are from running LinX. Ambient Temps is around 20-22. Although the 800D doesnt have the best airflow.

i7 920 D0 4.0Ghz vcore 1.275 idles 40 and max temp is 75 on a push/pull config (stock corsair and a SFF21F). im still debating if i should reseat my H50.


----------



## Typhoeus

I'm looking to join this club as soon as I can find a good deal on an H50+ a couple fans for push pull. my current temps are a max of 60C @4GHz and 1.3v and idle of 29-37. I'm hoping this will drop my idle to 24-29 and my max to 54-55ish. I think that should be a generous number going from my 15$ air cooler!


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *the.ronin* 
Ok I decided to change up fans and get some quality thermal paste. Whoa what a difference!!









I've got Prime95 doing in-place large FFTs while I'm writing this and temps haven't gone beyond 57!! That's over 10C lower than my previous craptastic run!

I picked up two Scythe S-Flex fans in a push/pull configuration. I also picked up a tube of Arctic MX-3 ... and this was applied no more than 30 minutes ago so I'd imagine temps would improve slightly once its had a chance to settle.

Time to overclock.









Very nice drop


----------



## staryoshi

Changed my setup to exhaust with push-pull Typhoons. The noise is more tolerable (but still VERY audible) but I'm hitting 67C on my hottest core at this modest 3.675Ghz OC (And an ambient of an ICY 17C) after but a few moments of priming. I'm very strongly considering two options: Mounting the radiator/fans on the top of my case (HAF 922) or switching back to the flex and using the GTs... I'll see how it goes tonight. I was hoping to get about the same performance as the Flex and lose some noise pollution. Unfortunately I've gained noise and haven't had much of a change in temps







Maybe I thought too much of this little guy :S


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *staryoshi*


Changed my setup to exhaust with push-pull Typhoons. The noise is much more tolerable (but still VERY audible) but I'm hitting 67C on my hottest core at this modest 3.675Ghz OC (And an ambient of an ICY 17C) after but a few moments of priming. I'm very strongly considering two options: Mounting the radiator/fans on the top of my case (HAF 922) or switching back to the flex and using the GTs... I'll see how it goes tonight. I was hoping to get about the same performance as the Flex and lose some noise pollution. Unfortunately I've gained noise and haven't had much of a change in temps







Maybe I thought too much of this little guy :S


Those temps are just about in line with results I've gotten. With HT on it's going to get hot under the H50, turn off HT and you can pump some decent voltage into the 860. Last night I was messing around it w/ turning HT off and I was able to pump 1.41vCore into it @ 4.2Ghz and acheive the same temps as 1.28vCore @ 3.85Ghz with HT on.


----------



## staryoshi

Yeah when I was on my flex there's nearly a 10C difference at the same clock/voltage when disabling HT. I'll figure out what I want to do while I'm stuck at work...


----------



## denn_is

Quote:


Originally Posted by *denn_is* 
this is my new oc with the H50.









Temps are still good...


----------



## sendblink23

ignore commented to the wrong user


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *staryoshi* 
Yeah when I was on my flex there's nearly a 10C difference at the same clock/voltage when disabling HT. I'll figure out what I want to do while I'm stuck at work...

I had a huge initial noise issue with my S-Flex (1600 rpm version). I my H50 in exhuast with one S-Flex inside my HAF 922 pushing out and one mounted outside the HAF 922 pulling (rad was inside the HAF). The noise was ridiculous......then I cut out the exhaust opening on the HAF 922 (i.e. wire snips around the holes on the back of the 120mm exhaust) and suddenly almost zero noise. I need to put my ear right against the fan to hear it now. The problem was the high pitched noise the blades were making as the attempted to suck air out through all those holes!!! Try it. It not only lowered my noise but lowered my temps as well.


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
I had a huge initial noise issue with my S-Flex (1600 rpm version). I my H50 in exhuast with one S-Flex inside my HAF 922 pushing out and one mounted outside the HAF 922 pulling (rad was inside the HAF). The noise was ridiculous......then I cut out the exhaust opening on the HAF 922 (i.e. wire snips around the holes on the back of the 120mm exhaust) and suddenly almost zero noise. I need to put my ear right against the fan to hear it now. The problem was the high pitched noise the blades were making as the attempted to suck air out through all those holes!!! Try it. It not only lowered my noise but lowered my temps as well.

That is something to try. Just not sure if I want to cut open my HAF yet









I also noted mounting the fan on the outside with the HAF922 to be noisy.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
That is something to try. Just not sure if I want to cut open my HAF yet









I also noted mounting the fan on the outside with the HAF922 to be noisy.

Leppie,

I was a little worried about it as well but it's really really simple. Take a pair or regular wire cutters and just snip along each hole that runs on the sides of the pattern. You'll end up with a cross shaped opening that looks pretty good. In your hands you'll have a hole filled cross shaped cut-out (I just threw the cut-out in the garbage). You won't regret it


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
Leppie,

I was a little worried about it as well but it's really really simple. Take a pair or regular wire cutters and just snip along each hole that runs on the sides of the pattern. You'll end up with a cross shaped opening that looks pretty good. In your hands you'll have a hole filled cross shaped cut-out (I just threw the cut-out in the garbage). You won't regret it









I'll start thinking about it when I get some modding parts, which are very hard to find here in South Africa, unless you import.

Anyways, I got my fans mounted inside now (without shroud), so no noise issues. Got my Dremel handy though


----------



## staryoshi

That thought just crossed my mind this morning. I'm definitely going to clip the back exhaust. No hands or animals get near my case anyway. I'm pondering doing something similar with my side intake and top exhaust too... only with a sophisticated mod grill to take its place... Mua ha ha. That's on my list of things to try tonight anyway









Can anyone else hear the pump? It's got a persistent ssscccchhhhwwwiiiiiiirrrrr noise that I can hear in addition to the fan noise. That's nearly as annoying as the fans. These gelid fans I got are put together very nicely but they run a bit louder than I had hoped too







I'm not looking for silence but I'm trying to put together something that I won't think about the noise while it's in use


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *staryoshi* 
That thought just crossed my mind this morning. I'm definitely going to clip the back exhaust. No hands or animals get near my case anyway. I'm pondering doing something similar with my side intake and top exhaust too... only with a sophisticated mod grill to take its place... Mua ha ha. That's on my list of things to try tonight anyway









Can anyone else hear the pump? It's got a persistent ssscccchhhhwwwiiiiiiirrrrr noise that I can hear in addition to the fan noise. That's nearly as annoying as the fans. These gelid fans I got are put together very nicely but they run a bit louder than I had hoped too







I'm not looking for silence but I'm trying to put together something that I won't think about the noise while it's in use









The pump should be almost silent, that is if you have no fans running you should just hear it.

Best bet would be to go ask on the Corsair forums, you may have a faulty pump.

You could also tried take out the H50, and rotate it a few times (the either thing). Then try again.


----------



## staryoshi

idk the more i think about it the more I think i should just go back to the flex... I'm going to stop worrying about it and deal with it at lunch


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1* 
My temps are from running LinX. Ambient Temps is around 20-22. Although the 800D doesnt have the best airflow.

i7 920 D0 4.0Ghz vcore 1.275 idles 40 and max temp is 75 on a push/pull config (stock corsair and a SFF21F). im still debating if i should reseat my H50.

That sounds about right. I just switched from exhaust to intake yesterday and noticed a 1-2c drop. I'm running 4.2ghz @ 1.27v and my highest idle core is around 39c and stress testing it with IBT "Very High" - 20 passes, puts me at 75c on the highest stressed core.


----------



## purduepilot

My load temps had creeped up steadily over the past few weeks from 44C to 54-55C. I had no idea why--hadn't changed voltage, clock speed, or ambient temps.

Last night I got out the compressed air and opened up my computer. Looked at the rad and it was COVERED in dust. Sprayed it out and now my temps are back down to 45C. I'd been worried that one of my fans had failed, but no, just a lot of dust.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dude120* 
I just checked, it wouldnt work, it would end up interfering with the blades, most likely. I guess I could make an extra long shroud, but it would most likely be right up against the H50 pump, lol
I dunno if cutting off the corners would help much because of the fact the the fan would really be sitting right on the heatsink.

If I were you I would turn the fans around and use them exhausting out of the case. I find that a shroud is more important on the pull fan than the push fan. This would mean you could add the shroud on the back of your case. If you can fit a fan you can fit a shroud. Just use an old 120mm fan, remove the inner guts, and use it as a shroud.


----------



## rchads89

Right install the h50 finally







just have a question









How do i know that the pump is running at full speed? its plugged in CHA_2

How do i check that the fan is running at full speed..

As right now my temps are not great on idle.

Cheers


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
I had a huge initial noise issue with my S-Flex (1600 rpm version). I my H50 in exhuast with one S-Flex inside my HAF 922 pushing out and one mounted outside the HAF 922 pulling (rad was inside the HAF). The noise was ridiculous......then I cut out the exhaust opening on the HAF 922 (i.e. wire snips around the holes on the back of the 120mm exhaust) and suddenly almost zero noise. I need to put my ear right against the fan to hear it now. The problem was the high pitched noise the blades were making as the attempted to suck air out through all those holes!!! Try it. It not only lowered my noise but lowered my temps as well.

A shroud would of probably achieved the same thing.


----------



## magel

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Typhoeus* 
I'm looking to join this club as soon as I can find a good deal on an H50+ a couple fans for push pull. my current temps are a max of 60C @4GHz and 1.3v and idle of 29-37. I'm hoping this will drop my idle to 24-29 and my max to 54-55ish. I think that should be a generous number going from my 15$ air cooler!

your idle wont drop and your max might not either.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rchads89* 
Right install the h50 finally







just have a question









How do i know that the pump is running at full speed? its plugged in CHA_2

How do i check that the fan is running at full speed..

As right now my temps are not great on idle.

Cheers

Go into bios and make sure your CHA_2 fan speed is set to 100 all the time, but I"m sure it is.

i7's at 4GHz run hot!!!







Even with an H50, its gonna be kinda high.

What temps are you looking at?


----------



## rchads89

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
Go into bios and make sure your CHA_2 fan speed is set to 100 all the time, but I"m sure it is.

i7's at 4GHz run hot!!!







Even with an H50, its gonna be kinda high.

What temps are you looking at?


I cant see anything to change this in bios dude... what is the term for it? I have a delta fan at the back which way should it be the front of the blades pointing towards the rad or out of the case?


----------



## sendblink23

okay guys earlier I posted that my temps got really high (16hrs ago) & I had to down clock entirely to 3.9Ghz

well decided to *remove my current thermal paste "MX-3" and add Shin-Etsu (MicroSi G571) bought that on ebay a few days ago for: $3.48 GUYS its way better check out:

New Temps 30c idle / 52c max load printscreen <-- this is only 10 minutes after installing it.

compared to earlier 32c idle / 57c max load (MX-3) printscreen

But as well remember I had similar temps of the new temps when I was up at 4.21Ghz, i still have no clue what has happened that I'm suddenly hotter(and only stable lower than 4ghz)... oh well at least this proves Shin-Etsu is better than MX-3 (I had it on since I first got the H50)... so in my case its a big drop (-5c) and especially considering since how cheap I found it on Ebay.

Now its just to wait for the new case & psu upgrade, I hope it gets better.


----------



## dude120

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
okay guys earlier I posted that my temps got really high (16hrs ago) & I had to down clock entirely to 3.9Ghz

well decided to *remove my current thermal paste "MX-3" and add Shin-Etsu (MicroSi G571) bought that on ebay a few days ago for: $3.48 GUYS its way better check out:

New Temps 30c idle / 52c max load printscreen <-- this is only 10 minutes after installing it.

compared to earlier 32c idle / 57c max load (MX-3) printscreen

But as well remember I had similar temps of the new temps when I was up at 4.21Ghz, i still have no clue what has happened that I'm suddenly hotter(and only stable lower than 4ghz)... oh well at least this proves Shin-Etsu is better than MX-3 (I had it on since I first got the H50)... so in my case its a big drop (-5c) and especially considering since how cheap I found it on Ebay.

Now its just to wait for the new case & psu upgrade, I hope it gets better.

Yeah, I think MX-3 has a curing time, unlike shin-etsu which seems cure almost immediately getting you good temps relatively quickly. Im surprised that the performance was that much better temperature-wise, I had heard great things about Mx-3.


----------



## pcnuttie

Why does everyone say the paste on that wc is good? I heard reviews elsewhere it sucked and artic silver 5 is better, am i wrong?


----------



## dude120

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
Why does everyone say the paste on that wc is good? I heard reviews elsewhere it sucked and artic silver 5 is better, am i wrong?

So have I. It really depends on who is reviewing it and what kind of performance they are looking for. In my experience it somewhat better than artic silver 5, but it isn't the absolute best. Ive seen a few charts floating around this site, which people have made using shin-etsu and 10 or so other TIM's. Shin-Etsu was the one which scored the 2nd or 3rd best (lowest) temps, the top being Indigo Extreme. For some its a significant drop in temperature for others it isn't. Getting a better thermal paste will drop temps anywhere from 1-5 C depending what its used for and what your previous thermal paste was.


----------



## ChronosWing

Ok officially joining now got everything up and running!


















And my modded Antec P182 SE case with side mesh window!

















Running a Phenom II X4 940 BE at 3.5GHz 1.4V at 32c Idle and 44c load! I love this thing!

Edit: pics sideways fixed now!


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
That sounds about right. I just switched from exhaust to intake yesterday and noticed a 1-2c drop. I'm running 4.2ghz @ 1.27v and my highest idle core is around 39c and stress testing it with IBT "Very High" - 20 passes, puts me at 75c on the highest stressed core.

My con-fig is currently fans exhaust, Im gonna test it fans intake later on next week, lets see if my results change


----------



## rchads89

Just been into bios something not right.

Currently my CPU is at STOCK!

CPU temp is 40oc
MB temp is 39oc

CPU speed is 1240 ( i think thats the delta fan on the back of the rad..)

CPU Q-Fan Control Enabled.

CPU Fan profile Turbo.

CH 1 speed 1339RPM ( thats a case fan top right )

CH 2 speed 1061RPM ( This is the PUMP )

Chassis Q-Fan Control Enabled
Chassis Fan Profile Turbo

Can anyone see the problem here ... Is the pump not kicking out enough rpm i dont feel these temps are right at all there far to high at stock voltage and speed.

My Zalman had way lower temps at stock ( tested it before i fitted the H50 )


----------



## ChronosWing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rchads89* 
Just been into bios something not right.

Currently my CPU is at STOCK!

CPU temp is 40oc
MB temp is 39oc

CPU speed is 1240 ( i think thats the delta fan on the back of the rad..)

CPU Q-Fan Control Enabled.

CPU Fan profile Turbo.

CH 1 speed 1339RPM ( thats a case fan top right )

CH 2 speed 1061RPM ( This is the PUMP )

Chassis Q-Fan Control Enabled
Chassis Fan Profile Turbo

Can anyone see the problem here ... Is the pump not kicking out enough rpm i dont feel these temps are right at all there far to high at stock voltage and speed.

Turn off Q-Fan.


----------



## rchads89

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChronosWing* 
Turn off Q-Fan.

Q fan Control?

I thought if i enable this i can then set it to turbo which would increase rpm?


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rchads89* 
Q fan Control?

I thought if i enable this i can then set it to turbo which would increase rpm?

its suppose to be Manual, you by hand change the fan speed to 100%


----------



## ChronosWing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rchads89* 
Q fan Control?

I thought if i enable this i can then set it to turbo which would increase rpm?

Q-Fan will still throttle your fan's even if set to turbo, If you turn it off all your fans will run at 100% no matter what.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dude120* 
So have I. It really depends on who is reviewing it and what kind of performance they are looking for. In my experience it somewhat better than artic silver 5, but it isn't the absolute best. Ive seen a few charts floating around this site, which people have made using shin-etsu and 10 or so other TIM's. Shin-Etsu was the one which scored the 2nd or 3rd best (lowest) temps, the top being Indigo Extreme. For some its a significant drop in temperature for others it isn't. Getting a better thermal paste will drop temps anywhere from 1-5 C depending what its used for and what your previous thermal paste was.









Can you read the very first thread where it explains of the pre-installed thermal paste, it says it its higher quality = being Better than 3rd party TIM
"The stock piece of thermal tape on the back of the H50 is Shin Etsu, this is a very good TIM (Thermal Interface Material) and normally ranks above your normal cheaper candidates (MX3 or AS5)"

This is the real difference(As people comparing with H50 as in the pre-stock TIM against an AC5 or MX3 etc...), the one's on the H50 have been applied for many months before they are sold in stores, so if you were to FRESHLY apply the Shin-Etsu it would be a whole allot of difference compared to a pre-installed production. Ofcourse I have the MicroSi G571 version, not the x23 (which is better)


----------



## McLaren_F1

rchads89 change the fan settings to something similar like this:


----------



## rchads89

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


its suppose to be Manual, you by hand change the fan speed to 100%


Nah q fan control is either - enabled or disabled

cpu fan profile is either standard / silent / turbo.

chassis fan profile is same stan/sil/turbo

If i turn it off all fan q control and the rest the pump will still run at just over 1000rpm (Should it not run at like 1400rpm) :s

@ McLaren_F1

I dont have that sort of layout mate mines either enable or disable as said above :s


----------



## magel

I am in even though I am disappointed.


----------



## ChronosWing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *magel* 
I am in even though I am disappointed.










Disappointed because?


----------



## 00Smurf

Reorganized things.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

I just got my new i7 860 stable(25 passes linx) at 4ghz woo!!!! I am such a noob at i7s. Now I am going to try lowering voltage and memory latencies.


----------



## staryoshi

I cut the exhaust vent cover on the HAF 922. I'll dremel them later so it isn't dangerous/ugly. Didn't really affect temps but it does seem a bit quieter. I'll post a picture of my setup even though I am not in love with it







I am definitely going to remove it tonight/tomorrow and go back to my flex unless something godlike happens. The performance isn't bad, it's actually fairly decent, but given my icy ambient temps it should be better. It's definitely a well put-together unit that oozes quality though. I love corsair products







(And especially their joint ventures)

I plan on keeping the GTs and tape-modding my Zalman Flex









Idles around: 28:22:27:21 with 18C ambient temp
Load @ 3.675Ghz HT on Prime95 after 5 mins is mid-60's

It's certainly not bad at all. It's actually fairly impressive, but I can return this puppy and get $80 back if I keep the Flex which posts very similar load temps and slightly lower idle temps








Edit: IDK maybe I should sit on it for a sec... hmm...


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *00Smurf*


Reorganized things.



















wow bro you need to tidy those cables up a bit. looks too cluttered man. Nice sli set up.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


Nice OC, but my only question... WHY LINPACK FOR 10HRS??!?!























Linpack finds instability VERY QUICKLY! No need for marathon runs with that










because i turned it on and went to work, came home at the end of my shift and stopped it lol


----------



## Typhoeus

alright, I know this question is asked over and over, but I only have ~23$ shipped *edit* I snagged an H50 for 60$ shipped so now I have about 40$ shipped to spend on TIM+fans (33$ on fans, put 7$+free shipping on some ICD-7) after the H50, I'm looking at 38MM Yate Loons or some 1800RPM Xigmateks:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233009 xig

http://www.jab-tech.com/Yate-Loon-12...D-pr-4335.html yates

If there is something nice between 33-40$ that would be worth stepping up to I think I might have enough MX-3 somewhere to repaste my CPU.

which should I go for? or is there better in that price range? I plan on doing push/pull. Would it be better to just get one high pressure fan like a San Ace, and then just use the stock fan for pull til I can get another?


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


wow bro you need to tidy those cables up a bit. looks too cluttered man. Nice sli set up.


Lol you serious? Looks like he's doing a fine job to me with three hard drives and GPUs that require two PCI-e cables each. Also, that's Crossfire not SLI.


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ljason8eg*


Lol you serious? Looks like he's doing a fine job to me with three hard drives and GPUs that require two PCI-e cables each. Also, that's Crossfire not SLI.










I thought I was doing fine as well. there are actually 4 hard drives. 1 120gb ocz turbo, 1 300gb velociraptor and 2 1 tb wd dives. There isn't anywhere else for the pci-e cables to go, they are zip tied together and run from the behind the mobo tray.


----------



## staryoshi

It took 2 hours but I finally removed and replaced my H50, it's going back to amazon








I did find out that the shin etsu was nearly perfectly spread across the CPU so that was not an issue... since I only used it for a day I left it on for my Flex







It's a great cooler but not worth it for my application. I'll post pics of it after I install my blackberry software... so 30 mins. I decided to keep the GTs but I'm wondering if I should go for the 1750RPM version... hmm... Those fans are AMAZING. They spin for half a minute after the power is shut off, fantastic 2-ball bearings. I recommended the higher RPM version for the H50 if noise is not an issue.

Edit:
Here are pics of my setup before I removed the H50. They were taken when I had it in an intake orientation. Included a pic of CPU after removing the block to show how well the Shin Etsu spreads







Near total coverage







I reused it when I replaced it with my Flex


----------



## Killhouse

Buhh its 4:38AM here and I just finished my maths assignment







*I will update the front page tomorrow*, including all the new members.

Some great pictures flying around


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *staryoshi* 
Edit:
Here are pics of my setup before I removed the H50. They were taken when I had it in an intake orientation. Included a pic of CPU after removing the block to show how well the Shin Etsu spreads







Near total coverage







I reused it when I replaced it with my Flex









......to my eyes of looking at your picture for there, seem's you had a _*LOT*_ of Air Pocket's for showing.....







Yes, you did have a good spread overall of the Heatspreader it show's, BUT man-O-man, lot's of small air pocket's may have been you reason for the high temp reading's...but, then, again, that's just my opinion-O-observation of the picture; i may/have been wrong at times....

{ jst wanted to add = that's one nice>>>Clean>>>setup of the interior of your case for showing....







}

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
......to my eyes of looking at your picture for there, seem's you had a _*LOT*_ of Air Pocket's for showing.....







Yes, you did have a good spread overall of the Heatspreader it show's, BUT man-O-man, lot's of small air pocket's may have been you reason for the high temp reading's...but, then, again, that's just my opinion-O-observation of the picture; i may/have been wrong at times....

{ jst wanted to add = that's one nice>>>Clean>>>setup of the interior of your case for showing....







}

mr-Charles .









.

Doesn't really seem like Air POCKETS... More like just where TIM stuck to his plate instead. Looks normal to me.


----------



## mr-Charles

. . . .OK, > > > will take that as i am wrong; . . . as i have stated in the previous post,
i am NOT alway rite. thnx for clearing that up, arbalest









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## staryoshi

Yeah that's just from removing the TIM. It transferred heat very well. I left that paste on in fact for replacing the Flex... This setup runs maybe a few Celsius warmer than the H50 does. I decided that it wasn't worth the $80 difference







Like I keep saying though, I love these GTs







my case is running fairly loud now, but a lot of that has to do with the yate loon i threw in the exhaust... I'm glad I removed the back exhaust grill but now I have to clean it up with a dremel lest someone get shanked by it.

It's weird I'm both disappointed by the product and find it to be praiseworthy... hmm







I still highly recommend it if you want an alternative to a bulky air cooler







Now maybe I'll take that $ and put it toward another 5850 once they come back down to $270... hmm.... tee hee.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:



Originally Posted by *staryoshi*


It took 2 hours but I finally removed and replaced my H50, it's going back to amazon








I did find out that the shin etsu was nearly perfectly spread across the CPU so that was not an issue... since I only used it for a day I left it on for my Flex







It's a great cooler but not worth it for my application. I'll post pics of it after I install my blackberry software... so 30 mins. I decided to keep the GTs but I'm wondering if I should go for the 1750RPM version... hmm... Those fans are AMAZING. They spin for half a minute after the power is shut off, fantastic 2-ball bearings. I recommended the higher RPM version for the H50 if noise is not an issue.

*Edit:
Here are pics of my setup before I removed the H50. They were taken when I had it in an intake orientation. Included a pic of CPU after removing the block to show how well the Shin Etsu spreads







Near total coverage







I reused it when I replaced it with my Flex







*


that looks like abit to much for my taste, and resuing tim is a bad idea.. creates air bubbles


----------



## staryoshi

@ Shorty - that's the stock amount of shin etsu provided. Most of it still remained on the block. it looks like a lot but it does not inhibit heat transfer imo.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ljason8eg*


Lol you serious? Looks like he's doing a fine job to me with three hard drives and GPUs that require two PCI-e cables each. Also, that's Crossfire not SLI.










I agree. Looks fine to me. I've noticed, just about every post pcnuttie makes is negative.








on your rig 00Smurf, nice job!


----------



## 00Smurf

R00ST3R;8529435
[IMG alt="" said:


> https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/thumb.gif[/IMG] on your rig 00Smurf, nice job!


Thank you.

And it keeps the 975 extreme cool!

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1029764


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R00ST3R*


I agree. Looks fine to me. I've noticed, just about every post pcnuttie makes is negative.








on your rig 00Smurf, nice job!


I'm not trying to be negative, i'm just curious about this because i'm interested in this. How dare you say i was saying bad things about it. The thermal spread on that is just a bit too far spread isn't it? You're lucky it didn't spread over your cpu onto your motherboard. I still think the thermal on that is not good, unless i'm wrong and you guys have tried it? I heard someone tried ARTIC SILVER 5 on it and it works much better than what you guys have. How long does thermal curing take if it's already on it?


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
I'm not trying to be negative, i'm just curious about this because i'm interested in this. How dare you say i was saying bad things about it. The thermal spread on that is just a bit too far spread isn't it? You're lucky it didn't spread over your cpu onto your motherboard. I still think the thermal on that is not good, unless i'm wrong and you guys have tried it? I heard someone tried ARTIC SILVER 5 on it and it works much better than what you guys have. How long does thermal curing take if it's already on it?

Huh...short memory? When you have lots of hardware, you can't hide every cable perfectly.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
*wow bro you need to tidy those cables up a bit. looks too cluttered man.* Nice sli set up.


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *00Smurf* 
I thought I was doing fine as well. there are actually 4 hard drives. 1 120gb ocz turbo, 1 300gb velociraptor and 2 1 tb wd dives. There isn't anywhere else for the pci-e cables to go, they are zip tied together and run from the behind the mobo tray.

Didn't look too bad either. You do have a full case.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *staryoshi* 
Here are pics of my setup before I removed the H50. They were taken when I had it in an intake orientation. Included a pic of CPU after removing the block to show how well the Shin Etsu spreads







Near total coverage







I reused it when I replaced it with my Flex









Mine was all wrong the first mount


----------



## pcnuttie

Yes you can lol. I can tidy those cables up so much better compared what you did. I'm not kidding. There's always a way!


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
Yes you can lol. I can tidy those cables up so much better compared what you did. I'm not kidding. There's always a way!










Since you're the all knowing, share some knowledge.

Only way is to flip the hard drive and cut holes for the cables. Not sure if he wants to cut into his case though.

The GPUs...there's nothing you can do there. Can't really hide those.


----------



## leppie

Does anyone know what the material is used in the radiator cores?

Copper or aluminum?


----------



## bearlout

I have A question.....

I have a i7 920..

when checking the core temps I get
#1 33
#2 29
#3 35
#4 27

does that look right?? should there that much differences in core temps??

and I can only get the the pump to 1395 rpm, no matter which fan header it is into


----------



## the.ronin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *the.ronin* 
Ok I decided to change up fans and get some quality thermal paste. Whoa what a difference!!









I've got Prime95 doing in-place large FFTs while I'm writing this and temps haven't gone beyond 57!! That's over 10C lower than my previous craptastic run!

I picked up two Scythe S-Flex fans in a push/pull configuration. I also picked up a tube of Arctic MX-3 ... and this was applied no more than 30 minutes ago so I'd imagine temps would improve slightly once its had a chance to settle.

Time to overclock.









Update ... the push/pull setup with the dual Scythe S-Flex was just generating too much noise for me. So I removed the pull and now I just have a single S-Flex pushing. I also moved the H50 power from a fan_header to CPU_header and have that at 100%. I have the S-Flex on smart fan to tone it down under no load.

I'm seeing literally just a couple degrees of additional heat (same Prime95 loads) and significantly less noise.

Either a single S-Flex is that much better than the Akasa included with the H50 or that MX-3 TIM is really that good. I'm thinking some of both.


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
Yes you can lol. I can tidy those cables up so much better compared what you did. I'm not kidding. There's always a way!









Here ya go, show me where you would put these. As you can see from the back of the case its nice and tidy.



























































On a side note, I have an extra h50 and thinking it might be fun to use it to cool a gpu. I'm using this old coolermaster as a mock up.


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bearlout* 
I have A question.....

I have a i7 920..

when checking the core temps I get
#1 33
#2 29
#3 35
#4 27

does that look right?? should there that much differences in core temps??

and I can only get the the pump to 1395 rpm, no matter which fan header it is into










For idle that looks about right. They might all go down to 27 if you wait a while.

Pump speed is right. Mine averages around 1378.


----------



## bearlout

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
For idle that looks about right. They might all go down to 27 if you wait a while.

Pump speed is right. Mine averages around 1378.


Thank you.......


----------



## Killhouse

*Member list updated*

400 pages - 260 members, insane


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


*Member list updated*

400 pages - 260 members, insane










Time to archive that inbox of yours









400 pages? That depends on your page size now, doesn't it?

BTW did you ever find those potentiometers you were looking for?


----------



## rchads89

Right wicked all sorted...

My temps are amazing.

I have push/pull Apache fans either side of the rad









Does it matter which way you have the pipes or which position you have the cpu block?

Currently my pipes go to the top of the case if you get me


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *00Smurf* 
Here ya go, show me where you would put these. As you can see from the back of the case its nice and tidy.

You should buy some MDPC-X sleeving or some presleeved kits and do something like this...

















Quote:

Time to archive that inbox of yours

400 pages? That depends on your page size now, doesn't it?

BTW did you ever find those potentiometers you were looking for?









!!!

I know which pot and transistor I need now, dont know when I'll get around to the project though


----------



## pjladyfox

I'm still reading thru this thread so I've not had a chance to read or reply to anything after I made my post (still on page 10 of 40) so bear with me.









Something just occured to me as I was reading thru this entire thread. Several people have expressed interest in mounting the H50 in the 5.25 bays on their case and I think there may be a way to do that. Here is what I think you would need to start:

3 clear 5.25 drive bays

3x 120mm fans

2x 120mm shrouds

2x Mountain Mods Acrylic Triple Bay 120mm fan mount
http://www.mountainmods.com/mountain...unt-p-405.html

1x Evercool 80mm Fan Duct - 10" (stretches up to 250mm)
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=2485

2x Nexus 80 or 92mm to 120mm Fan Adapter
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=22522

Now, some rough measurements:

5.25 bay dimension (single) - 3.3 inches high, 5.7 inches wide, and 8.1 inches deep; this translates to 84 x 146 x 206

5.25 bay dimensions (triple) - 9.9 inches high, 5.7 inches wide, and 8 inches deep; this translates to 252 x 146 x 206

120mm fan dimension - 4.7 inches high, 4.7 inches wide, and 0.98 inches deep; this translates to 120 x 120 x 25

120mm fan + shroud - 4.7 inches high, 4.7 inches wide, and 1.96 inches deep ; this translates to 120 x 120 x 50

Now I had thought that maybe using two of the triple-bay mounts, along with a fan duct, would allow someone to setup something like this:

<- fan <- H50 <- triple-bay mount <- shroud <- fan <- 80 to 120 adapter <- duct <- 80 to 120 adapter <- fan <- triple-bay mount <- filter (optional)

Now I would think that the 2 inches would allow for sufficient depth in the 5.25 bay for the triple-bay mount to be mountable by the rear screw holes typically used for a optical drive. Failing that you could probably drill, using a dremel or other tool, the holes needed in order to mount it sufficiently that with the shroud allow for the mounting of the H50 just right at the lip of the 5.25 bay.

Thoughts?


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pjladyfox*


Now, some rough measurements:

5.25 bay dimension (single) - 3.3 inches high, 5.7 inches wide, and 8.1 inches deep; this translates to 84 x 146 x 206

5.25 bay dimensions (triple) - 9.9 inches high, 5.7 inches wide, and 8 inches deep; this translates to 252 x 146 x 206

Thoughts?


STOP!!!

Your math is flawed









Just visually I can tell you the height of a 5.25 bay is about 40mm. That's a far cry from 3.3 inches.

Back to the drawing board.









Edit: Also normally, a 5.25 inch bay is 5.25 inches wide, not 5.7!


----------



## Huw444444444

Awesome







I got my H50 today droped 10c in temps but it has messed up the airflows in my case ;( ! still amazing tho


----------



## Acroma

Some temps. Not bad with such a high volt.

This 920 wont do 3.9 or 4.0 and I'm not trying to push the voltage any higher.










Edit: This is the new 24/7 stable OC. been testing it all week with zero errors.


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Huw444444444*


Awesome







I got my H50 today droped 10c in temps but it has messed up the airflows in my case ;( ! still amazing tho










If that is the case, put it in exhaust mode. It may gain you a few degrees, but it wont heat up the case.


----------



## Penryn

I am now the proud owner of an H50! YAY!


----------



## crwncad702

Hey there everyone, just ordered my H50, and waiting for the Core i7 930 to be release to drop onto my EVGA X58 Classified. I was curious if anyone out there was using the H50 on a Silverstone TJ07 case? Reason I am asking, is I want to find a decent mounting location for the H50.. If anyone has some pics or at least some good recommendations, it would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Penryn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crwncad702*


Hey there everyone, just ordered my H50, and waiting for the Core i7 930 to be release to drop onto my EVGA X58 Classified. I was curious if anyone out there was using the H50 on a Silverstone TJ07 case? Reason I am asking, is I want to find a decent mounting location for the H50.. If anyone has some pics or at least some good recommendations, it would be greatly appreciated.


I already have a 930, Fry's is selling them. I got my radiator mounted onto my rear case fan, push pull status!


----------



## Templar848

I love this cooler so much I have two. One in my desktop and another mounted externally in a lanbox. So add me to the list.


----------



## Evtron

So I'm working with an H50 in an 800D - I was wondering if you guys suggest putting the rad as push/pull exhaust in the rear? Or putting the rad as push/pull exhaust at the top and turning the rear fan around as intake?


----------



## Oussal

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evtron*


So I'm working with an H50 in an 800D - I was wondering if you guys suggest putting the rad as push/pull exhaust in the rear? Or putting the rad as push/pull exhaust at the top and turning the rear fan around as intake?


Best answer is just experiment and see which works best for you. Myself, I've had best results with the rear fan as intake, and push/pull exhaust in the top.


----------



## Evtron

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Oussal* 
Best answer is just experiment and see which works best for you. Myself, I've had best results with the rear fan as intake, and push/pull exhaust in the top.

Yeah, that's what I'm going to do I think - I have some nice 120mm that I'm going to fit as exhaust up there - Chunky said that it would be beneficial to have top fan as intake to help the back fan that we switched to intake - which top 120mm port did you put your H50 in as exhaust?

+rep


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Does anyone have advice on how to get an 860 at 4ghz or 4.2ghz stable? I had it stable but then I had a problem with my memory and cleared the cmos, forgetting to save my profile in the bios.

I am now updating my rig in my sig.

EDIT: UPDATED


----------



## EaglePC

got mine today. cleaned it up and used artic silver 5 sarn rap style + finger. also pull/push

runner i7 920 @ 4.2Ghz


----------



## Capwn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


Does anyone have advice on how to get an 860 at 4ghz or 4.2ghz stable? I had it stable but then I had a problem with my memory and cleared the cmos, forgetting to save my profile in the bios.

I am now updating my rig in my sig.

EDIT: UPDATED


No offense to you or the club. But this is a growing problem in this thread. There are proper threads and forums for these things. The H50 club has turned into a full on discussion thread that alot of the time has little to nothing to do with the cooler itself


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EaglePC* 
got mine today. cleaned it up and used artic silver 5 sarn rap style + finger. also pull/push

runner i7 920 @ 4.2Ghz

very nice temps but what program did you test it? real temps built in tool?


----------



## A3DSAIL

Yah, iGuitarGuy, we jus' gotta stick to the topic, okay?


----------



## Rains

I am not super impressed right now with my H50.

I am running it push-pull, exhaust, in my P182 case. I have the included corsair fan, and an Antec TriCool on low, on the rad. I have 3-120mm intake fans, and 3-120mm exhaust fans (including the aforementioned two on the H50 rad)

My idle temp is 35.C, and load is 55.C. This is with the CPU at 3.2Ghz, 1.35v. My buddy in Calgary has the same CPU, case, fans, and his idle is 28.C, load is 38.C.

Can anyone help me get my temps more reasonable? Should I reseat the block? I don't really want to run it intake, as my NB runs hot enough as it is (~57.C load, stock voltage with tim replaced) ... what should I do?


----------



## pcnuttie

Go air cooling unless you wanna do some heavy clocking then stay with this.


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rains*


I am not super impressed right now with my H50.

I am running it push-pull, exhaust, in my P182 case. I have the included corsair fan, and an Antec TriCool on low, on the rad. I have 3-120mm intake fans, and 3-120mm exhaust fans (including the aforementioned two on the H50 rad)

My idle temp is 35.C, and load is 55.C. This is with the CPU at 3.2Ghz, 1.35v. My buddy in Calgary has the same CPU, case, fans, and his idle is 28.C, load is 38.C.

Can anyone help me get my temps more reasonable? Should I reseat the block? I don't really want to run it intake, as my NB runs hot enough as it is (~57.C load, stock voltage with tim replaced) ... what should I do?


I'd reseat first. Could just have been a bad mount or not enough/too much TIM.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Go air cooling unless you wanna do some heavy clocking then stay with this.


What exactly are you talking about? H50 performs about the same as high end air cooling.


----------



## Rains

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Go air cooling unless you wanna do some heavy clocking then stay with this.


I'm at stock speeds because my temps are too high. I wouldn't have purchased this cooler if I wasn't planning on running my C2 @ 4Ghz 24/7


----------



## Rains

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ljason8eg*


I'd reseat first. Could just have been a bad mount or not enough/too much TIM.


Alright, will try! Currently I am using the stock tim, I thought that it was good stuff? For reseat, am I better off to reuse stock tim or swap it out for some AS5?


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *A3DSAIL*


Yah, iGuitarGuy, we jus' gotta stick to the topic, okay?


Sorry, what I meant to say is I am going to test my temps with an H50 at 4ghz







. Besides, now I got it stable.


----------



## EaglePC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


very nice temps but what program did you test it? real temps built in tool?


Real Temp Sensor Test with Prime95


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rains*


Alright, will try! Currently I am using the stock tim, I thought that it was good stuff? For reseat, am I better off to reuse stock tim or swap it out for some AS5?


You could try some AS5. Probably won't make a huge difference in temps though. A good seat is far more important.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ljason8eg*


You could try some AS5. Probably won't make a huge difference in temps though. A good seat is far more important.


I think the stock is better. It's friggen Shin-Etsu!


----------



## Iroh

I love it when a build comes together. Compared to the XP-120 this was a piece of cake.










Corsair needs to mention in the instructions that extra set of screws it comes with that just happen to thread perfectly into the stock AM3 backplate. Here I was not happy with needing to replace the good steel plate with a plastic one, and lo and behold, didn't have to remove the mainboard and all structural reinforcement is intact. Sweet!

Config as exhaust with corsair fan pushing and antec tricool that came with the case pulling. Also I'm betting it helped that I slid the retention bracket over the pump first and both made contact and screwed it down all at once. No lifting, no twisting, no goofing up that expensive TIM they put on it.

Once I figure out why prime95 hates my computer so much I'll know what the high temp is. Sometimes it works, sometimes it gets in a conflict and locks the computer at 800MHz. It won't let me do anything but move the mouse and very carefully click to stop the workers. I did manage to get it to run for 15 minutes a little bit ago and it peaked at 50C IHS and 52C core in a 26C ambient room. Not too shabby at 3.6GHz/1.4v. Linpack doesn't even get it hot, I don't have enough RAM... now that the ambient is down to 23C (opened a window...) IHS stops rising at 41C and core at 48C. Sweet. A heck of a lot better than the high 50s IHS and mid 60s core I had on the XP in that test, ick.

Used the Tt one last time... its wire adapter allows getting power and ground from molex but splits and sends just the rpm lead to the board so I can see it in speedfan. Fewer worries. This board does funky things on the fan connectors even when qfan is off.

Edit: 24C ambient, OCCT gives 47C IHS and 50C core. Linpack a little hotter in charts below. I love headroom!


----------



## pcnuttie

Is the installation of the H50 different? Like screw down? not Behind the backplate?


----------



## Iroh

If you look in that pic, you'll see 4 screws on the ring bracket that holds down the water block/pump. Those 4 screws go into either your original backplate (lucky for AMD owners!) or the replacement plastic backplate with metal inserts that comes with the cooler.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
Is the installation of the H50 different? Like screw down? not Behind the backplate?

The H50's installation includes putting on the backplate to the back of the motherboard and putting screws through the bracket and into the backplate on the back of the motherboard.

I noticed on AMD systems, you could use the AMD backplate with the bigger-threaded screws the H50 comes with. On Intel systems, you will be using the smaller-threaded screws and the backplate.


----------



## Rains

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ljason8eg*


You could try some AS5. Probably won't make a huge difference in temps though. A good seat is far more important.


So I loosened the retention bracket, and discovered that my h50 was making excellent contact with my CPU, it didn't want to move, even with bracket off. So I gave it a little twist to the right and left, as to push out any air bubbles in the tim, and redid the rention bracket. I kept my stock tim ... "It's friggen Shin-Etsu!"
















Temps so far seem to be the same as before. I am more suspecting my "DrMos" NB/ mosfter passive cooler [Read: room heater] of tainting the ambient intake temperature for the H50









Maybe I need to fabricate a shroud so my top exhaust pulls that hot air away from the rad ...


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rains*


So I loosened the retention bracket, and discovered that my h50 was making excellent contact with my CPU, it didn't want to move, even with bracket off. So I gave it a little twist to the right and left, as to push out any air bubbles in the tim, and redid the rention bracket. I kept my stock tim ... "It's friggen Shin-Etsu!"
















Temps so far seem to be the same as before. I am more suspecting my "DrMos" NB/ mosfter passive cooler [Read: room heater] of tainting the ambient intake temperature for the H50









Maybe I need to fabricate a shroud so my top exhaust pulls that hot air away from the rad ...


Are you getting enough airflow?


----------



## Rains

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


Are you getting enough airflow?



I would think so ... P182, for the main chamber [power supply/ HDs isolated], I have two 120mm intake fans, the H50 with two 120mm fans exhausting by rear I/O, and one 120mm exhaust on top, right above the NB/ MOSFET heatsink


----------



## Evtron

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rains*


I am not super impressed right now with my H50.

I am running it push-pull, exhaust, in my P182 case. I have the included corsair fan, and an Antec TriCool on low, on the rad. I have 3-120mm intake fans, and 3-120mm exhaust fans (including the aforementioned two on the H50 rad)

My idle temp is 35.C, and load is 55.C. This is with the CPU at 3.2Ghz, 1.35v. My buddy in Calgary has the same CPU, case, fans, and his idle is 28.C, load is 38.C.

Can anyone help me get my temps more reasonable? Should I reseat the block? I don't really want to run it intake, as my NB runs hot enough as it is (~57.C load, stock voltage with tim replaced) ... what should I do?


A number of possibilities could be the culprit here. Just because you guys have the same set up might not always net the same results







Ambient temperatures and airflow could be the problem as well. However, I have seen a lot of people that have the same problem and re-seat the block to fix it.

Also, I'm not sure about your fans - if you want to maximize the cooling efficiency it's really important to get some good fans. Also, CFM doesn't mean everything especially when it comes to heatsinks/rads. A fan with good static pressure and design will do wonders for the H50. I would suggest something like the Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15's because they work well with the radiators fin density and is also what I'm using


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

So I just finished my H50 mod. I added a Swiftech MicroRes, new tubing, tube wrap, and purple UV coolant. I worked on it all day and took it slow and careful, then leak tested it for hours. I'm really happy with it!

Many, many +Rep and thanks to Willhemmen, Sexy Bastard and Tlxxxracer for their tutorials- without them I'm not sure I'd even want to give it a try.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rains*


Alright, will try! Currently I am using the stock tim, I thought that it was good stuff? For reseat, am I better off to reuse stock tim or swap it out for some AS5?


Order some Shin-Etsu X23-7783D. I was in the exact same situation as you were, bought AS5 and my temperatures were not as low as they were with the stock. Got the thermal paste I linked above and got the same lower temperatures under stock. You won't regret and the best part is there is no break-in period like AS5 which takes ~200 hours.

It has the same consistency as the stock, it's very thick and clay-like. It only becomes viscous under heat. Just use the pea-application method.


----------



## Evtron

Nice! I might try to do the dual 120mm RAD and micro res mod with mine down the road if their pumps seem to hold out fine









Other than that looks sweet but the green cathode is just killing it for me, Some larger UV would set it on fire!

I request that you bump up that OC and give us some heat results to see the difference!


----------



## pcnuttie

Why is Shin Estu better than Artic Silver 5? is this only for water cooling or can be used for aftermarket cooling? Does it cool better? I seen a benchmark somewhere and i know artic silver is rated best, i need to find more about this one!


----------



## Evtron

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raul-7*


Order some Shin-Etsu X23-7783D. I was in the exact same situation as you were, bought AS5 and my temperatures were not as low as they were with the stock. Got the thermal paste I linked above and got the same lower temperatures under stock. You won't regret and the best part is there is no break-in period like AS5 which takes ~200 hours.

It has the same consistency as the stock, it's very thick and clay-like. It only becomes viscous under heat. Just use the pea-application method.



I agree, I love how it comes in that little syringe too, my friends looked at me like I was taking this WAY to seriously, or was into some way off the chart drugs. But the Shin-Etsu X23-7783D is the best non extreme TIM on the market and is what the H50 uses OEM.

Also AS5 is definitely not the best and is aging.


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evtron*


Nice! I might try to do the dual 120mm RAD and micro res mod with mine down the road if their pumps seem to hold out fine









Other than that looks sweet but the green cathode is just killing it for me, Some larger UV would set it on fire!

I request that you bump up that OC and give us some heat results to see the difference!


Thanks, the green cathode isn't so bad when the case is closed, but it's uber bright in that pic for sure. I used AS5 so when it cures a bit I'll be able to give you some more accurate temps. Right now I'm 35c idle and 48c during IBT. Hopefully they'll drop soon.

I'm looking for a little better TIM if this doesn't work out.


----------



## Evtron

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_CH_Skyline_*


Thanks, the green cathode isn't so bad when it case is closed, but it's uber bright in that pic for sure. I used AS5 so when it cures a bit I'll be able to give you some more accurate temps. Right now I'm 35c idle and 48c during IBT. Hopefully they'll drop soon.


Right on, yeah I guess your right the cathode kind of is just shining right at the camera, but it's fine with the case off.

I've always liked green but it seems like the hardest color to pull off in a case without making it look tacky.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evtron*


I agree, I love how it comes in that little syringe too, my friends looked at me like I was taking this WAY to seriously, or was into some way off the chart drugs. But the Shin-Etsu X23-7783D is the best non extreme TIM on the market and is what the H50 uses OEM.

Also AS5 is definitely not the best and is aging.











I want some free Indigo Xtreme xD


----------



## Evtron

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


I want some free Indigo Xtreme xD


Haha you live like 15 min from me, we can LAN up and combine our supercomputers to concoct a design to make our own Indigo Xtreme


----------



## pcnuttie

So you're saying Shin-Estu is the BEST thermal paste to use on air cooled pc's too? Or is this benchmark strictly for water cooling? I would love to see someone do an experiment on air cooled cpu with Shin Estu compared to Artic Silver and see what temps are.


----------



## Evtron

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
So you're saying Shin-Estu is the BEST thermal paste to use on air cooled pc's too? Or is this benchmark strictly for water cooling? I would love to see someone do an experiment on air cooled cpu with Shin Estu compared to Artic Silver and see what temps are.

Yes, unless you want to spend $20 on 2 applications of Indigo-Extreme that is rendered useless if your heat-sink accidently moves during installation.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that the heat that is transfered from the CPU through the TIM is the same pretty much whenever.


----------



## rchads89

I am reaching 71oc on load temps with my i7 is currently on 1.28125 reading in bios .. My temps are way to high with this cooler i have installed push/pull with apache fans everything and the bios shows that all fans and pump is running at 1400rpm .... Now i deffo seated the h50 right because you cant seat it wrong?

Any ideas?

Also whats the best thermal paste to use other than that tin stuff?


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rchads89* 
I am reaching 71oc on load temps with my i7 is currently on 1.28125 reading in bios .. My temps are way to high with this cooler i have installed push/pull with apache fans everything and the bios shows that all fans and pump is running at 1400rpm .... Now i deffo seated the h50 right because you cant seat it wrong?

Any ideas?

For your OC it seems perfectly inline. I would be happy if I was you.


----------



## crwncad702

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Penryn*


I already have a 930, Fry's is selling them. I got my radiator mounted onto my rear case fan, push pull status!


I went to Fry's just the other day, and they had the 930 on display, but none for sale... At first I was gonna get the 920 but then I figured I would wait a week for the extra .14GHz, especially considering that the 930 is the same price as the 920. I will have to give them a call and see if they have any now. I know I am gonna go with a push/pull config, but mounting to the rear of my TJ07 may not work, as it only has dual 90mm fans on the rear... I may have to mount it to the top, but it's hard to say until my H50 is delivered. Thanks for the info tho.


----------



## Killhouse

Hmm, my pump has been buzzing a lot recently. I think it's normal but could I get some confirmation, does anyone get quite a quiet buzzing from the pump unit (quieter than a normal fan)?

Can anyone recommend me some good sound/vibration insulation that I could use on the H50 somehow?


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
So you're saying Shin-Estu is the BEST thermal paste to use on air cooled pc's too? Or is this benchmark strictly for water cooling? I would love to see someone do an experiment on air cooled cpu with Shin Estu compared to Artic Silver and see what temps are.

I told you earlier it is bro


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evtron*


Haha you live like 15 min from me, we can LAN up and combine our supercomputers to concoct a design to make our own Indigo Xtreme


Sounds like a plan! Go H50s!


----------



## rchads89

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
For your OC it seems perfectly inline. I would be happy if I was you.

Not really when my zalman was giving me 65oc ... As the h50 claims better than air coolers i cant see it myself right now... As i said push / pull apache fans either side is also powerful... still dissapointed


----------



## PCSarge

when i think of ghetto mods... i think of my thumbscrew mounted H50 setup lmao

oh and if your wondering thats case>push>shroud>rad>shroud>pull w/ R4s


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
when i think of ghetto mods... i think of my thumbscrew mounted H50 setup lmao

You have a ways to go young grasshopper, to be at one with the "ghetto", you must have peace and harmony in your soul...and an ample supply of duct tape.


----------



## PCSarge

lmao... that looks like my 5 yr old nephew took a hacksaw to it xD


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
lmao... that looks like my 5 yr old nephew took a hacksaw to it xD

How do you take a hacksaw to duct tape? You get one upped the proceed to insult the man. For a "chick" with a " boyfriend" you seem to spend alot of time trolling this forum. Just a few of my observations.


----------



## PCSarge

lol? i've posted like 3 times in 2 weeks?


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Capwn* 
How do you take a hacksaw to duct tape? You get one upped the proceed to insult the man. For a "chick" with a " boyfriend" you seem to spend alot of time trolling this forum. Just a few of my observations.

 I'm not insulted







. That was a throw away low-profile Dell a buddy of mine had picked up. I brought over the 8600GT and the fans, he supplied the RAM and the gorilla tape, and we went to town trying to make that thing worth gaming on for kicks







. No hacksaw was involved, but the dremel got a good workout.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R00ST3R*


 I'm not insulted







. That was a throw away low-profile Dell a buddy of mine had picked up. I brought over the 8600GT and the fans, he supplied the RAM and the gorilla tape, and we went to town trying to make that thing worth gaming on for kicks







. No hacksaw was involved, but the dremel got a good workout.


That's the spirit.


----------



## alayoubi

guys ,,

how to know the static pressure of any fan ??

whats the good and bad static pressure ?


----------



## Oussal

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evtron*


Yeah, that's what I'm going to do I think - I have some nice 120mm that I'm going to fit as exhaust up there - Chunky said that it would be beneficial to have top fan as intake to help the back fan that we switched to intake - which top 120mm port did you put your H50 in as exhaust?

+rep


Using the middle one up top; I had 2 other 120's mounted in the other positions that I tested out as intake/exhaust etc but they didn't seem to make too noticable a difference for me so I've since left them off.


----------



## slekkas

I have made a threat at the Intel CPU section before i realized there was an official H50 thread. Now i think i should ask the specialists.

My system runs at 4GHz and the temp is 84c full load witch i think is to high.
I'm using Arctic cooling MX-3 thermal paste. My system is configured like this:

CPU Frequency:200
CPU Mult: x20
PCIe:104
QPI Frequency: 4.27GTs
MCH: 1600
VDroop: Without Vdroop

Boot Vcore: 1.30
Eventual Vcore:1.34
DIMM: 1.65
Boot CPU VTT: 1.350
Eventual CPU VTT:1.400
PCH:1.10
CPU PLL:1.85

RAM Ratio: 2:8
Timmings: 9-9-9-24 CMD 2T
RAM SPD: @1600Mhz

CPU PWM Freq = 1019
VTT PWM Freq = 634
DDR PWM Freq =634

C1E: Disabled
ESIT: Disabled
c2/c3/c4 exc...: Disabled

I've ordered a pair of Scythe s-flex fans at 1900RPM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185065

Do you think there going to help? I really want to get my system running under 79c full load. Any suggestions? Are you seeing something wrong with my config? Is there something else i could try?

Thanks


----------



## Killhouse

If you are just using the Corsair fan right now in push or pull then you will almost certainly see the drop in temp that you are hoping for


----------



## slekkas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


If you are just using the Corsair fan right now in push or pull then you will almost certainly see the drop in temp that you are hoping for










Yes, right now I'm only using the corsair original fan. Are the fans i chose the right ones or you have something better in mind? Noise is not much of an issue but i wouldn't want something to drive me crazy







.


----------



## Killhouse

They're popular around here, should be fine


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Actually... it does depend on your case's airflow. Im going to reverse my exhaust to intake tonight and see what happens.

Why? Even though its summer and are ambients are hitting low 30c, it will never get as hot as my case.

With the GTX 275 blowing hot air in there, its gets to about 40c.

So, Im going to see what happens.


Well. Thats that theory down the plug hole...

Swung the fans and shrouds around on the weekend to intake. There was no great difference from exhaust.

I did have to swing one of my case intake fans to exhaust to compensate.

The only real difference with intake was, it took a lil longer to reach max temps over exhaust and that was about it.

Also. Im also officially a dill! I had thought my Coolermaster fans where R4s, there not, they are F1s... thats a difference of about 20 cfm









Quote:



Coolermaster A12025-20RB-3BN-F1 (LED) 2000 rpm 70 cmf 19.8 dbA


So, Im going to order these:

Quote:



http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...oducts_id=6020


Anyway... here are the Linpack tests...


----------



## Rains

Here's a quick guide I hope some may find helpful!

**IMPORTANT* - This guide is intended for users who discover they need to reseat their H50 shortly after mounting. Applies to new or almost new paste. IT IS NOT advised to reuse the tim after more extensive use.*

Step 1:
Find an empty or almost empty thermal grease syringe. Empty it out, and clean the tube thoroughly, using Q-tips and rubbing alcohol. Clean the rubber grommet and tip of the plunger as well.


Step 2:
Find a credit card with a good edge. Clean it off briefly with rubbing alcohol.

Step 3:
Scrap the Shin Etsu Paste off the block and tap/ scrape it into the open syringe. Go slow and steady, it is somewhat crumbly and you will lose some if you aren't careful.



Step 4:
Do the same with the CPU. Be mindful to avoid static discharge; you don't want to ruin your prized Phenom or I7 simply be being negligent.


Step 5:
Insert the plunger back into the syringe. Squeeze until the paste comes out. You will have a small tip of residual silicone paste, wipe this away. Clean your syringe up.


Step 6:
Enjoy! You now have hopefully a few applications of high quality Shin Etsu paste to use


----------



## SeanG

You can add me thanks.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rains*


Here's a quick guide I hope some may find helpful!

You now have hopefully a few applications of high quality Shin Etsu paste to use










While I applaud your ingenuity and patience, I have a difficulty with reusing TIM.

If this procedure was done with a new, unseated H50. I would have no issue.

However scrapping it off what looks like a post-seated water block and CPU, leaves me a little worried.

Quote:



it is somewhat crumbly


Indicates to me that it has already been exposed to several or more heat cycles. A TIM in that state may cause more problems than its worth.

I would exercise extreme caution doing this.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SeanG*

You can add me thanks.


Nice, clean setup - 2 thumbs up!


----------



## pjladyfox

Killhouse,

Just double-checked to make sure but you may wish to edit the "What is the best thermal paste for the H50?" question with this link:

http://www.overclock.net/other-cooli...mal-paste.html

If I somehow happen to also find an official Corsair note on this to clarify I'll edit this post. Just figured this would be good to revise since, much to my surprise, there are several different grades of Shin-Etsu paste:

Home URL: http://www.microsi.com/packaging/thermal_grease.htm

*Shin-Etsu X23-7783D* - used by Corsair H50
Shin-Etsu X23-7762
Shin-Etsu G-751
Shin-Etsu G-765

Hope this helps!


----------



## HuntM21

Hey what are some good fans I could use in a Push/Pull on this? I'm thinking about getting one









Gentletyphoons?


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rains* 
Here's a quick guide I hope some may find helpful!
.... high quality Shin Etsu paste to use









hehehe that was fun


----------



## Rains

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
While I applaud your ingenuity and patience, I have a difficulty with reusing TIM.

If this procedure was done with a new, unseated H50. I would have no issue.

However scrapping it off what looks like a post-seated water block and CPU, leaves me a little worried.

I would exercise extreme caution doing this.

While I too, would not reuse TIM that has seen extensive use, my H50 has been mounted all of three days and seen maybe 24hours of uptime. My guide is best suited for those who disover they need a remount shortly after mounting.

I just figured, if this Shin Etsu is as good as everyone says it is, why waste it? And with proper procedure (clean syringe, card, etc.), the paste should be no worse for the wear.

I will test sometime this evening, if my temps are worse off, or thermal anomalies occur, I will delete my original post and speak no more of it


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rains* 
While I too, would not reuse TIM that has seen extensive use, my H50 has been mounted all of three days and seen maybe 24hours of uptime. My guide is best suited for those who disover they need a remount shortly after mounting.

I just figured, if this Shin Etsu is as good as everyone says it is, why waste it? And with proper procedure (clean syringe, card, etc.), the paste should be no worse for the wear.

I will test sometime this evening, if my temps are worse off, or thermal anomalies occur, I will delete my original post and speak no more of it










No, no... its a great idea for the time frame you have mentioned. I think that statement is the key to the guide.

Quote:

24hours of uptime. My guide is best suited for those who disover they need a remount shortly after mounting.
If you add that caveat, I would be more comfortable.

Given the large number of relative newcomers to this thread, if we are not clear about what we are talking about, we may lead them down a path we would not want to go down. And they will be sad


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HuntM21* 
Hey what are some good fans I could use in a Push/Pull on this? I'm thinking about getting one









Gentletyphoons?

Have a look here:

Quote:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8506253


----------



## HuntM21

Thanks!


----------



## Rains

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
No, no... its a great idea for the time frame you have mentioned. I think that statement is the key to the guide.

If you add that caveat, I would be more comfortable.

Given the large number of relative newcomers to this thread, if we are not clear about what we are talking about, we may lead them down a path we would not want to go down. And they will be sad









Excellent point, perhaps I assume too much. I have amended my original post; thanks


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Well. Thats that theory down the plug hole...

Swung the fans and shrouds around on the weekend to intake. There was no great difference from exhaust.

I did have to swing one of my case intake fans to exhaust to compensate.

The only real difference with intake was, it took a lil longer to reach max temps over exhaust and that was about it.

Also. Im also officially a dill! I had thought my Coolermaster fans where R4s, there not, they are F1s... thats a difference of about 20 cfm









So, Im going to order these:

Anyway... here are the Linpack tests...


Hey Sethy... just tried the UK2k a couple days ago. They are nothing special and the used ones I tried have bearing noise. I would stick with 2000rpm R4s or just get some GTs.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HuntM21*

Thanks!


Most welcome









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rains*


Excellent point, perhaps I assume too much. I have amended my original post; thanks










Most excellent... Your right, its a great way to save some quality paste









Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Hey Sethy... just tried the UK2k a couple days ago. They are nothing special and the used ones I tried have bearing noise. I would stick with 2000rpm R4s or just get some GTs.


Thanks bro, I take that onboard


----------



## Rains

Could the pump handle a bigger radiator, such as this: http://ncix.com/products/index.php?s...cture=Swiftech ?


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

Some more shots of my mod


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rains*


Could the pump handle a bigger radiator, such as this: http://ncix.com/products/index.php?s...cture=Swiftech ?


I think that would be a big ask for the pump. The only mod Im aware of is *Sexybastard's *double rad mod.

Quote:



http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8489163


Im loving your avatar Rains... very cool!


----------



## EaglePC

guys why is core 4 on a i7 920 do stepping 5 cpu lower ,i am amazed on temps @4.2Ghz my room is @ 70 degrees


----------



## sooner2k1

I've seen that there is at least one other user on this forum that is using a Corsair H50 with an Azza Solano Case. Does anybody else have this setup? If you have this setup, did you have to make any modifications (outside of normal setup) to have it fit correctly?

The Solano is hard to fit because of the huge side case fan.

Thanks for any info.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EaglePC*


guys why is core 4 on a i7 920 do stepping 5 cpu lower ,i am amazed on temps @4.2Ghz my room is @ 70 degrees


. . . . you'd might get better answer/response to that question in an "Intel / mthrbrd or CPU" thread than for here . . . .









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## EaglePC

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 

. . . . you'd might get better answer/response to that question in an "Intel / mthrbrd or CPU" thread than for here . . . .









mr-Charles .









.  
thanks and wow if this thread will post 5,000









just notice my brand new h50 slight buzzing when i put my ear to it?
  
 YouTube- CORSAIR H50 CPU Cooler - Noise Test  



 
 the noise in that video sounds like what I've been hearing too. Sound level doesn't seem to be too loud either, in other words, identical to my experiences as well. anyone else ?


----------



## Kjekse

Write me up !


----------



## Rains

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Im loving your avatar Rains... very cool!

Thanks man









So, after much testing, I have come to the conclusion that I simply cannot achieve load temps below 50.C with this cooler, for my Phenom 955 C2, at the stock 3.2Ghz and 1.35v. I have reseated numerous times, ran my fans as intake and exhaust, ran single and push-pull configs, tried both the stock tim and some AS5, even made a shroud for my hot NB/ MOSFET heatsink to remove warm air from the intake ... Just not happening. Hell, my load temp is currently 56.C degrees with my windows open and an ambient temperate of 16.C

I'm going to grab a stock AMD heatsink soon and do some [much needed] comparison testing!


----------



## larryparamedic

I would like to be added to the list!
I put my H50 into a new build, so I have no idea what my numbers would have been without it. After gaming at the max for several hours, my CPU temp has never been over the 80-85 F range.
(That's going by the panel of the Aerocool 1000 temp probe.)
I placed my rad on the bottom of the case (a Cooler Master 690 II Advanced).
I plan to add a second fan in a push/pull config in the near future.
I have the rad fan plugged into the CPU fan controller (going through the Aerocool 1000 extension), and the pump head plugged into an open fan slot. This new build is about a week old now.


----------



## Penryn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *larryparamedic* 
I would like to be added to the list!
I put my H50 into a new build, so I have no idea what my numbers would have been without it. After gaming at the max for several hours, my CPU temp has never been over the 80-85 F range.
(That's going by the panel of the Aerocool 1000 temp probe.)
I placed my rad on the bottom of the case (a Cooler Master 690 II Advanced).
I plan to add a second fan in a push/pull config in the near future.
I have the rad fan plugged into the CPU fan controller (going through the Aerocool 1000 extension), and the pump head plugged into an open fan slot. This new build is about a week old now.


























80 Seems really high... I never get over 60 with a decent OC while gaming and in rare cases, 70 during prime95. May want to reseat.

Edit: 80F, my bad. Good job!


----------



## Penryn

On another note, here are what my temps are currently:










Sorry for the width, printscreen... well... takes a pic of both monitors lol


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rains*


Thanks man









So, after much testing, I have come to the conclusion that I simply cannot achieve load temps below 50.C with this cooler, for my Phenom 955 C2, at the stock 3.2Ghz and 1.35v. I have reseated numerous times, ran my fans as intake and exhaust, ran single and push-pull configs, tried both the stock tim and some AS5, even made a shroud for my hot NB/ MOSFET heatsink to remove warm air from the intake ... Just not happening. Hell, my load temp is currently 56.C degrees with my windows open and an ambient temperate of 16.C

I'm going to grab a stock AMD heatsink soon and do some [much needed] comparison testing!


Hmmm... when you say you have make a shroud, was that for the rad or just the NB/Mosfet?

Have you had a look at this link?

Quote:



http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...0-updated.html


56c with an ambient of 16c doesnt seem right, even with that OC. perhaps *Killhouse *can shed some light on this, when he is next back...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Penryn*

On another note, here are what my temps are currently:


Methinks your temps may be due to having your rad on the bottom of the case... limited air flow...
Have you considered moving the rad somewhere else?

BTW... I love your case... CM690 II... mmmmmm









Can you point me in the direction of your Nvidia gadget on your desktop... its very kewl!


----------



## Penryn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Can you point me in the direction of your Nvidia gadget on your desktop... its very kewl!


It's called GPU monitor, works with any graphics card alongside Rivatuners monitoring ability. Essentially, you put rivatuner in record mode in your taskbar and it takes the info from there. I can't remember where I got it, but I'm pretty sure its on Microsofts gadget page. I'm still looking for a similar one for CPU XD.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Penryn*


It's called GPU monitor, works with any graphics card alongside Rivatuners monitoring ability. Essentially, you put rivatuner in record mode in your taskbar and it takes the info from there. I can't remember where I got it, but I'm pretty sure its on Microsofts gadget page. I'm still looking for a similar one for CPU XD.


Thanks Penryn... much appreciated


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EaglePC* 
thanks and wow if this thread will post 5,000









just notice my brand new h50 slight buzzing when i put my ear to it?
[...]
the noise in that video sounds like what I've been hearing too. Sound level doesn't seem to be too loud either, in other words, identical to my experiences as well. anyone else ?

I get this too, glad to know it's normal. I'm trying to reduce it somehow but I'm lost for ideas. I wanted to wrap soundproofing around it but I'm scared of overheating the pump. It's the loudest thing in my system at the moment.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rains* 
Thanks man









So, after much testing, I have come to the conclusion that I simply cannot achieve load temps below 50.C with this cooler, for my Phenom 955 C2, at the stock 3.2Ghz and 1.35v. I have reseated numerous times, ran my fans as intake and exhaust, ran single and push-pull configs, tried both the stock tim and some AS5, even made a shroud for my hot NB/ MOSFET heatsink to remove warm air from the intake ... Just not happening. Hell, my load temp is currently 56.C degrees with my windows open and an ambient temperate of 16.C

I'm going to grab a stock AMD heatsink soon and do some [much needed] comparison testing!


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
56c with an ambient of 16c doesnt seem right, even with that OC. perhaps *Killhouse* can shed some light on this, when he is next back...

Something is very wrong. Run speedfan and check the speed of your pump (should be about 1400). Which fans are you using? Check that your H50 is mounted correctly - this may sound trivial but are you sure you've used the correct screws (they mustnt wobble as they go in, otherwise you use the wrong ones) and are all the tabs correctly lined up with the O-ring?
_
I will update the member list tonight







_


----------



## Penryn

Wooo I get to be on the list!


----------



## Rayzer76

I'm in! FYI - I didnt take pics while i modded the stand but, here's some pics.

My temps where in the mid 40's @ idle and i wasn't really happy about it. After reseating and reapplying the TIM a few times, i came up with the idea that maybe the cooler wasn't getting enough pressure against the cpu. I was correct.

I used some 3m double sided tape for this. I removed the entire cooler from the mobo. I removed the mounting plate from the pump and removed the legs from the mounting plate. I laid a piece of double sided tape on top of each hole that the legs slips through and trimmed the tape with a new and sharp exacto knife. I took my time and it was worth it. when you push the legs through the mount, the mount will sit lower when you install.

Ok, so the legs and tape are installed on the mounting plate. Next, i installed the pump to the mounting plate, as it would look normally, but i used 4 peices of electrical tape to hold them together while i installed the cooler and plate, all in one shot. I used AS5, very, very thin. I just lined up the screws and gave each screw a few turns until i could feel the cooler/pump start to press on the cpu. Then i tightend all 4 screws snug, just like the normal install.

I was truly amazed at the drop in temps. 5 passes of the Intelburntest and the temps never broke 60. Now this isn't an overclocked I7, mainly because i was afraid to OC with my idle temps before, but i do beleive this afternoon, i will be crankin it up.

I hope this helps, and i hope you can get the gist of things by the pics....


----------



## Penryn

^ I see what you did there, very nice! I have those temps without having to do all that... maybe it's just the thickness of your mobo...


----------



## Rayzer76

^ Could be. Definitely happier now...


----------



## Rayzer76

Now, if someone could get this thing on a GPU....


----------



## kamyk155

Hello guys. At first sorry for my english. At first i want to say i just buy some new hardware to my old comp. So i buy - i7 860/evga p55/8gb ram. Now i got some problems with temperature on my CPU. Few days ago on my CPU was Thermalright 120 Extreme with 2x120mm fans. When i start to burn my CPU using Prime95 or Linx on stock 2800MHz i got really big temps on it. My i7 860 on idle got about 36-39*C but when burned he got about 59-62*C on Prime95. When i OC my i7 860 to about 4GHz (21x190) with 1,3V on cpu i got mega temps - IDLE about 45-49*C and HOT 87-93*C. I start to worry and i buy Corsair H50 because lots of people on this forum say its really cool. Now i got corsair lots of fans in my case and still problem with temps.
On stock clock 2800MHz corsair H50:
IDLE - 29-34*C
HOT - 52-55*C
i7 860 OC to 3,8GHz:
IDLE - 36-41*C
HOT - max 74-78*C in Prime95 or max 76-84*C in Linx
I really dont know what to do. I use 3 thermal compounds (AS5, Zalman STG2, AC MX-2). I use 2 fans on rad, now even 3 fans and lots of fans in my case.
Heres the picture of my case.


----------



## Rayzer76

^Holy cripes.

1) Cable management. Ain't gotta be perfect but, its time to tidy up a bit...

2) IMHO, i don't think 3 fans on the rad is necessary. push/ pull with 2 should do the same job, unless you gutted one fan and used it as a shroud.

3) how are you applying the TIM? I used a drop of AS5 around the size of a grain of sand.


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kamyk155* 
Hello guys. At first sorry for my english. At first i want to say i just buy some new hardware to my old comp. So i buy - i7 860/evga p55/8gb ram. Now i got some problems with temperature on my CPU. Few days ago on my CPU was Thermalright 120 Extreme with 2x120mm fans. When i start to burn my CPU using Prime95 or Linx on stock 2800MHz i got really big temps on it. My i7 860 on idle got about 36-39*C but when burned he got about 59-62*C on Prime95. When i OC my i7 860 to about 4GHz (21x190) with 1,3V on cpu i got mega temps - IDLE about 45-49*C and HOT 87-93*C. I start to worry and i buy Corsair H50 because lots of people on this forum say its really cool. Now i got corsair lots of fans in my case and still problem with temps.
On stock clock 2800MHz corsair H50:
IDLE - 29-34*C
HOT - 52-55*C
i7 860 OC to 3,8GHz:
IDLE - 36-41*C
HOT - max 74-78*C in Prime95 or max 76-84*C in Linx
I really dont know what to do. I use 3 thermal compounds (AS5, Zalman STG2, AC MX-2). I use 2 fans on rad, now even 3 fans and lots of fans in my case.
Heres the picture of my case.

That seems normal. i7 860's run hot. I cant even reach 4.0ghz due to heat


----------



## kamyk155

Ok so:
1 - cables - they only look bad (today i tight them) on the upper part of the case they are bad (no place to hide them) they lay on the right side of the case but theres only 1x 92mm fan as exhaust (not too important). The 24pin and 2x 6pin GPU cables in the center are above 120mm fan.
2 - 2x120mm push fans are 1000-1100rpm and the 1x120mm pull fan is stock Corsair 1600-1650rpm (i try pull/push 1/1 fans but better temps got on 1/2)
3 - now i got Zalman STG2 on CPU i give it to all CPU (not too much). When instaling corsair on it i turn few times right-left to better contact pump/cpu.
The only way to do now is to buy better fans ? Will they give me lower temps ? I was thinking about Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm 1450rpm x2 on the rad.


----------



## Rayzer76

Im using some thermaltake 78cfms, exhaust also. I did a direct placement of the cooler, not the push and turn like it said in the instructions. Mybe you'd benefit from my mod for the extra pressure...


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kamyk155*


Ok so:
1 - cables - they only look bad (today i tight them) on the upper part of the case they are bad (no place to hide them) they lay on the right side of the case but theres only 1x 92mm fan as exhaust (not too important). The 24pin and 2x 6pin GPU cables in the center are above 120mm fan.
2 - 2x120mm push fans are 1000-1100rpm and the 1x120mm pull fan is stock Corsair 1600-1650rpm (i try pull/push 1/1 fans but better temps got on 1/2)
3 - now i got Zalman STG2 on CPU i give it to all CPU (not too much). When instaling corsair on it i turn few times right-left to better contact pump/cpu.
The only way to do now is to buy better fans ? Will they give me lower temps ? I was thinking about Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm 1450rpm x2 on the rad.


Do not use 2 fans against each other as it just creates a blockage. 1000rpm fans are useless for such a hot CPU. If you are getting GTs get the 1850rpm version. Even at that speed they are reasonably quiet. Also, take one of those crappy case fans and make a shroud out of it for the pull fan.


----------



## Rains

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Hmmm... when you say you have make a shroud, was that for the rad or just the NB/Mosfet?

The term 'shroud' is somewhat ambiguous: http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherb...ml#post8547087


----------



## kamyk155

Ok so i will buy:
2x Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm 1850rpm
1x Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra Set


----------



## Rains

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Something is very wrong. Run speedfan and check the speed of your pump (should be about 1400). Which fans are you using? Check that your H50 is mounted correctly - this may sound trivial but are you sure you've used the correct screws (they mustnt wobble as they go in, otherwise you use the wrong ones) and are all the tabs correctly lined up with the O-ring?
_
I will update the member list tonight







_

Alright!

Fans = stock Corsair fan, ~1600rpm. Antec TriCool, ~1100rpm
Pump speed = 1450RPM, +-10rpm
Screws = do not wobble. For the Am3 backplate, you can only use the smaller thread screws, the larger, more course thread screws don't thread in at all.
The block/ pump = perfectly aligned with the bracket, every contact point is lined up


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rains* 
Alright!

Fans = stock Corsair fan, ~1600rpm. Antec TriCool, ~1100rpm
Pump speed = 1450RPM, +-10rpm
Screws = do not wobble. For the Am3 backplate, you can only use the smaller thread screws, the larger, more course thread screws don't thread in at all.
The block/ pump = perfectly aligned with the bracket, every contact point is lined up

Have you cross-checked the temps with other monitoring programs? CPU-Z is my favourite.

Your fans could definetely do with an upgrade but those are the exact fans I used, and 40C above ambient is not right. Hmm. Got a picture of your setup?


----------



## EaglePC

guys i'm really chilling this @ 4.2Ghz ,only thing my ASUS 5850 Graphics Card it is getting pretty warm at it being idle.


----------



## Rains

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Have you cross-checked the temps with other monitoring programs? CPU-Z is my favourite.

Your fans could definetely do with an upgrade but those are the exact fans I used, and 40C above ambient is not right. Hmm. Got a picture of your setup?

Temps:


Setup:









Also, my Antec TriCool is now on medium, so both fans are spinning at 1600RPM.

PS thanks for helping me out, I appreciate it


----------



## iGuitarGuy

H50 with i7 860 4ghz stable. Max temps were 84C LinX. Hot. Proof in sig.


----------



## slekkas

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
H50 with i7 860 4ghz stable. Max temps were 84C. Hot. Proof in sig.

What are your temps now?

We have almost the same system. Apart from the Mobo everything else is the same.

My temps are 82c full load with Linx and i have tried everything to make them drop to 75c without success. These are my settings. Can you change my values to what you are using?

CPU Frequency:200
CPU Mult: x20
PCIe:104
QPI Frequency: 4.27GTs
MCH: 1600
VDroop: Without Vdroop

Boot Vcore: 1.30
Eventual Vcore: 1.35
DIMM: 1.65
Boot CPU VTT: 1.350
Eventual CPU VTT:1.400
PCH:1.10
CPU PLL:1.85

RAM Ratio: 2:8
Timmings: 9-9-9-24 CMD 2T
RAM SPD: @1600Mhz

CPU PWM Freq = 1019
VTT PWM Freq = 634
DDR PWM Freq =634

C1E: Disabled
ESIT: Disabled
c2/c3/c4 exc...: Disabled

Thsnks


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 

























H50 with i7 860 4ghz stable. Max temps were 84C LinX. Hot. Proof in sig.

Nice rig my man! I'm telling ya, these 860's are like mini-bake ovens. *ding* Fresh muffins anyone?


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slekkas* 
What are your temps now?

We have almost the same system. Apart from the Mobo everything else is the same.

My temps are 82c full load with Linx and i have tried everything to make them drop to 75c without success. These are my settings. Can you change my values to what you are using?

CPU Frequency:200
CPU Mult: x20
PCIe:104
QPI Frequency: 4.27GTs
MCH: 1600
VDroop: Without Vdroop

Boot Vcore: 1.30
Eventual Vcore: 1.35
DIMM: 1.65
Boot CPU VTT: 1.350
Eventual CPU VTT:1.400
PCH:1.10
CPU PLL:1.85

RAM Ratio: 2:8
Timmings: 9-9-9-24 CMD 2T
RAM SPD: @1600Mhz

CPU PWM Freq = 1019
VTT PWM Freq = 634
DDR PWM Freq =634

C1E: Disabled
ESIT: Disabled
c2/c3/c4 exc...: Disabled

Thsnks

I'll take pictures of my bios. Some of those things I don't have and I need some more information about them. I'll be testing gpu stability for a little bit and then I will run a linx 10 loop run at max ram for temps. I tested for stability with 20 runs.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Nice rig my man! I'm telling ya, these 860's are like mini-bake ovens. *ding* Fresh muffins anyone?









If I could put a pan on my processor to transfer heat, I would cook eggs. lol


----------



## iGuitarGuy

I just CPU-Zed an i7 at 4.444ghz!! I love my motherboard!!


----------



## Penryn

The 860s just run hot because they have less surface area to dissipate heat. If you notice, they are quite a bit smaller than the 1366 i7s and therefore when you pump more volts in, theres less surface area for the heat to dissipate, less area to connect to the heatsink. Even with my 930 I hit 65-70 during stress testing so 80 sounds normal for an 860.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rains* 
Temps:
[....]
Also, my Antec TriCool is now on medium, so both fans are spinning at 1600RPM.

PS thanks for helping me out, I appreciate it









Hmm I'm stumped, those temperatures are were similar to mine but my ambient is 26C. What are you using to measure your ambient?

*Front page updated*


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Hmm I'm stumped, those temperatures are were similar to mine but my ambient is 26C. What are you using to measure your ambient?

*Front page updated*

Any chance that GPU has anything to do with it? Its very close to the rad and under the pump? Just my


----------



## Killhouse

Could be, although my 4870 should be hotter than the 4850. And no problems here









I'm trying to work out how to embed google spreadsheets :/


----------



## Sethy666

Its tricky... check this...









Quote:

http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...your-post.html


----------



## twistid

I have something of concern, my temps seem to have raised since I first installed it... and my idle temp's aren't that great.

Playing GTA IV , I was getting up to high 50's and I idle around 40*c just doing little tasks on the computer with CnQ enabled. My ambient is maybe 75*f ... I opened my case and checked to make sure both fans were blowing the same direction (lol) and yes they were both exhausting out the case. I have 2 front intake, 1 side intake, 1 top exhaust, and the rear exhaust where the push/rad/pull is...

I installed a NZXT Sentry 2 fan controller to everything and put it all to 100% but it doesn't seem to do anything. I'm using the stock AMD backplate with the stock TIM that came on the H50... for pushpull I'm using the fan that came with the case and the Corsair fan... could this be the reason?

I also notice sometimes after a few hours of gaming, the hot air comming out of rear exhaust is pretty hot from the radiator, I'm thinking the water isn't able to cool enough in the little radiator and the small loop.

Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Also this is all with stock clocks , and cool and quiet enabled, so idling is 800mhz per core @ 1.0 volts


----------



## Sethy666

*@twistid*

Perhaps not enough exhaust ports.

I have the same problem... especially now with the Summer heat.

Enclosed is a pic of how Im attempting to manage it... The fix knocks about 3-4c off the internal case temp.

Im in the process of increasing the size of the fan from 70mm to 120mm.


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

@ twistid

Those temps definitely seem high, even before I modded mine my idle was 31-34c and load was 44-47c. That was with a Coolermaster 120mm and the Corsair 120mm push/pull exhaust. I always turn off CnQ though.


----------



## PCSarge

make sure you make use of it like i did...they work great on big MB heatsinks








sorry for the bad lighting, no flash on my cellphone camera








its actually nice and quiet too... the fan asus provided started making grinding noises on me, plus this one is bigger (and yes, i did electrical tape the excess wire together after the photos)


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


make sure you make use of it like i did...they work great on big MB heatsinks








sorry for the bad lighting, no flash on my cellphone camera








its actually nice and quiet too... the fan asus provided started making grinding noises on me, plus this one is bigger


I'm so glad that the H50 goes so well with the HAF 932. What kind of fans are you running on the side again?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


make sure you make use of it like i did...they work great on big MB heatsinks








sorry for the bad lighting, no flash on my cellphone camera








its actually nice and quiet too... the fan asus provided started making grinding noises on me, plus this one is bigger


Damn girl, just once, I like to see your rig without the sepia effect









Good idea though


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


I'm so glad that the H50 goes so well with the HAF 932. What kind of fans are you running on the side again?


i have 4 R4's intake side panel, 1 R4 exhaust rear, H50 R4>shroud>rad>shroud>R4>case exhaust in the top, with another R4 beside it in exhaust so my pc is basically constantly moving air and its colder than the room its in (which i think is funny)


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Damn girl, just once, I like to see your rig without the sepia effect









Good idea though










what sepia effect? lol i'm kinda tired so youll hafta elaborate for me

(if you mean in decent light, ill see if i can arrange that tomorrow morning)


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i have 4 R4's intake side panel, 1 R4 exhaust rear, H50 R4>shroud>rad>shroud>R4>case exhaust in the top, with another R4 beside it in exhaust so my pc is basically constantly moving air and its codler than the room its in (which i think is funny)


 8 R4s... o.e

You got quite the airflow.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


what sepia effect? lol i'm kinda tired so youll hafta elaborate for me


The reddish, orangish, brownish color of the whole picture.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


The reddish, orangish, brownish color of the whole picture.


thats fixable, as i said, youll hafta wait till morning, and ill provide better pics of it, i'm actually trying to shave part of the mounting clips off, they make it look bulky

oh the 230mm is stil lin the front doesnt blow very far past my HDDs though (its more for show anyways, very low 800 rpm)


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
thats fixable, as i said, youll hafta wait till morning, and ill provide better pics of it, i'm actually trying to shave part of the mounting clips off, they make it look bulky

oh the 230mm is stil lin the front doesnt blow very far past my HDDs though (its more for show anyways, very low 800 rpm)

Im looking forward to it... the pics, not the shaving part


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Im looking forward to it... the pics, not the shaving part









This should be good


----------



## PCPaladin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rains* 
Alright!
......
Screws = do not wobble. *For the Am3 backplate, you can only use the smaller thread screws*, the larger, more course thread screws don't thread in at all.
The block/ pump = perfectly aligned with the bracket, every contact point is lined up

I thought the fine threads were for Intel, the coarse thread screws for AMD?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCPaladin* 
I thought the fine threads were for Intel, the coarse thread screws for AMD?

That was my understanding as well.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
That was my understanding as well.









It depends if you the threads that come with the H50's AMD backplate or if you are using the metal full AMD one.

The metal one allows you to use the course. The smaller ones are for the H50's.


----------



## ablearcher

I figure the H50 is about 52mm "thick" with the fan attached, am I incorrect?
The FAQ linked from the first page states some 27mm for the radiator, and most fans are 25mm thick, so I figure about 52mm.

Thank you very much!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
It depends if you the threads that come with the H50's AMD backplate or if you are using the metal full AMD one.

The metal one allows you to use the course. The smaller ones are for the H50's.

Ahhh...









Thanks


----------



## Aqualoon

Just got my H50, reseated it 3 times. First time I used the TIM that it came with, 2nd time I used OCZ Freeze, third time I used TX-3. Temps are still high with all of them.

Idle: 48C
Load: 66C

Ambient temp doesn't get over 35C. I don't have a push/pull configuration, didn't have long enough screws to do that...going to stop by the hardware store tomorrow...anyone know what size screws are needed to mount that? I had a higher end air cooler before I got this, temps were high but didn't go above 62C on load. Wanted to try this before going to a single loop WC setup so any advice on how to get my load below 60C would be helpful, specially since it is winter and my temps will be higher in the summer.

Oh a happy note though, I did reset my NB/SB heatsink tonight and saw a good 30-35C drop in load temps using the TX-3


----------



## dmitt25

Ok guys, I've been lurking around here for a bit now. I posted to this thread to have Killhouse add me to the list, but I got missed.

Here's my puzzle. I get the H50 installed on my system, and I'm really timid, because I just got my board back from RMA. Fire the system up for the first time and it seems to be doing just fine.. with the new H50 pumping away. I've got mine set up in push-pull with no shrouds. At stock CPU speeds 2.4GHz I idle at about 25c. At 3.0GHz overclock it sits at a stable 38c idle. ?? So a few days pass (thinking TIM needs to set, although I'm using stock TIM) I decide to run Prime for a few hours watching closely for the first 10 mins or so. The core temps crept up to 49c at 100% load but never any higher. On air this same chip at this same oc would just continue to get hotter and hotter.. 3 hours later and I never jumped higher than 49c...

Why are my idle temps so high but running at full bore doesn't raise the temps much?

I'd like to OC higher than this as I've had this chip to 3.6 so far.. temps were the only limiting factor at that point.

Any suggestions as to why it runs so warm at idle but does such a good job of keeping the higher temps in line?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aqualoon* 









Just got my H50, reseated it 3 times. First time I used the TIM that it came with, 2nd time I used OCZ Freeze, third time I used TX-3. Temps are still high with all of them.

Idle: 48C
Load: 66C

Ambient temp doesn't get over 35C. I don't have a push/pull configuration, didn't have long enough screws to do that...going to stop by the hardware store tomorrow...anyone know what size screws are needed to mount that? I had a higher end air cooler before I got this, temps were high but didn't go above 62C on load. Wanted to try this before going to a single loop WC setup so any advice on how to get my load below 60C would be helpful, specially since it is winter and my temps will be higher in the summer.

Oh a happy note though, I did reset my NB/SB heatsink tonight and saw a good 30-35C drop in load temps using the TX-3









You need a fan on the inside of your case mounted on the rad.


----------



## Aqualoon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aqualoon* 
I don't have a push/pull configuration, didn't have long enough screws to do that...going to stop by the hardware store tomorrow...anyone know what size screws are needed to mount that?

This


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aqualoon* 
This

Alright. This is what you do.

You take 2 screws out of the rad from the fan installed, diagonal (top-left bottom-right or top-right bottom-left).

Then, You put them in diagonal ways on the other side for the use of the other fan! Problem solved!

Ps: I did this for my setup.


----------



## dmitt25

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aqualoon* 
This

The answer to your question is 6-32 x 1.25


----------



## Aqualoon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Alright. This is what you do.

You take 2 screws out of the rad from the fan installed, diagonal (top-left bottom-right or top-right bottom-left).

Then, You put them in diagonal ways on the other side for the use of the other fan! Problem solved!

Ps: I did this for my setup.

Exceeeelllent...gonna go do that now


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aqualoon* 
Exceeeelllent...gonna go do that now









Good luck! I hope to see great temps after!


----------



## pjladyfox

*rubs her eyes* Damn, it took me a week but I'm FINALLY caught up with this thread all 42 pages worth. And to think I get to look forward to that again with the Antec 300 thread. *sigh*

Time taken to read thru everything aside it was well worth it. I'll detail out my thoughts once I get these replies knocked out...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
The TIM is Shin Etsu, its a good quality TIM but I think they laid it on a lil thick. I went from scrapping it off (didnt know what it was at that time) and applying MX-3, back to the ES X23... Im happy with it now









Have a think about a shroud... they really do make a difference.

Just checked out your rig on the Antec thread... very nice! We too would like that eye-candy here pls









Also, sorry about the "nice work *man*" thing... Ive amended my original post







Aww, now see, your just showing off









*chuckles* No worries and no foul hon.

I'm really giving some serious thought about the shroud but I want to make sure I've actually got my setup nailed as best as I can get it before I start fiddling with things anymore. If that's one thing that was VERY apparent after reading this entire monster thread is that the less changes you do at a single time the easier it is to troubleshoot an issue.

And rest assured I plan on posting more in this and the Antec thread once I'm fully caught up.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
Actually of your Previous post yes according to my Testings using the same you had Zalman CNPS9700*NT (But I have a CPU Phenom ii x4 965be C3)... well it indeeds cools more (As in Stock Settings @ 3.41Ghz), but here is the difference if I have it overclocked lets say at 4.21Ghz that is my current settings the H50 Cools more in Load(48c - 50c), where the Zalman would go higher than 52c... actually that was when on 4.01Ghz so I'm guessing the Zalman would have not survived at 4.21Ghz... so in conclusion an H50 is good if you are overclocking.

I kind of figured that was the case after reading some other people making the switch and remarking on the same thing. Basically, the H50 is designed to allow you to push things a bit while still keeping near air-cooling levels. As I noted to Sethy once I've got everything dialed in running stock then I plan on looking into this dark art some of you like to practice that you call overclocking and hopefully not get into any trouble that will kill my system.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
One of the perennial questions asked on this thread is 'which fans should I use?'

I thought I would put together a specification matrix of the most common / popular fans used by the H50 community here.

This list is by no means exhaustive, Im sure there are fans that I have not listed. It is my intention that this list can be used by members as a ready reckoner and give users an indication of basic spec, so an informed decision can be made based on there system.

Nice work on the spreadsheet! +1 rep for you. ^_^

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
STOP!!!

Your math is flawed









Just visually I can tell you the height of a 5.25 bay is about 40mm. That's a far cry from 3.3 inches.

Back to the drawing board.









Edit: Also normally, a 5.25 inch bay is 5.25 inches wide, not 5.7!









Yeah, I kind of figured my numbers would be off which was why I was hoping someone like yourself would give me a poke about what was wrong with them.
















Basically, my goal is to setup something very similar to what you see in these posts:

Xmisery's custom front air intake box
http://www.overclock.net/8396471-post3362.html
http://www.overclock.net/8450945-post3588.html

And then combine with a mount to allow the H50 to be set like this:

EvoLiTiLE's custom Antec 1200 H50 mount
http://www.overclock.net/8452479-post3602.html

This way you get the benefit of pushing the cold air from the front and retaining the thermal dynamics in such a way that you can keep a positive pressure system going and hopefully improve temps as well.

Ideally I'd like to have something like what BlueFox created in his post at http://www.overclock.net/8483588-post3757.html. This way there is a clear route from the front intake fan to the "push" fan on the H50. But I'm honestly not sure who to contact as to how to have such a device made, much less the dimensions for the length to stretch between the two fan mounts, so really it's just an idea.

Kind of one of those things where maybe my brainstorming will trigger an evolution of the idea and maybe see not only how well it works but how it looks. ^_^

------------

After reading thru everything I went ahead and ordered the following from over at FrozenCPU:

Shin-Etsu X23-7783D Silicone Thermal Compound - 1g
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/89...Hdwu&mv_pc=145

Corsair Hydro Series H50 AMD socket AM2 and AM3 Retention Kit (CWCH50-AMDBRKT)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...Hdwu&mv_pc=146

Once I get this stuff in I plan on re-mounting the entire system, maybe even add a shroud if I feel ambitious enough, and hopefully clean things up a bit and see if I get the temps down a bit more. I still have this nagging feeling that it's not quite there yet so until I feel that it is I'm going to continue to tinker with it.

At the very least I'm learning a LOT about this thing and how it works so even if I do not get a temp improvement it was'nt a waste of time. Especially since my hubby does not know I plan on doing the same to his.

















BTW, Killhouse was that Shin-Etsu info useful to you at all?


----------



## slekkas

I know that the Arctic Cooling MX-3 specs mention that there is no curing time but from your experiences is this correct?

Does the MX-3 have a curing period? And if yes how long?

I still cant get my i7-860 to operate at 4GHz under 81c







.


----------



## EaglePC

guys from my post http://www.overclock.net/8553382-post4107.html

should i retire my ole cm 830 se case and get a haf 932 ?

i think all my h50 hot air is all over my graphics card like bad breath ...


----------



## slekkas

78-79c at 4GHz full load in LinX with 50.4200 GFlops is this acceptable? is my PC in any danger?

Vcore in CPUz 1.38v
VTT 1.37


----------



## newpc

add me?















[/URL][/IMG]


----------



## AcidTrip

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slekkas* 
78-79c at 4GHz full load in LinX with 50.4200 GFlops is this acceptable? is my PC in any danger?

Vcore in CPUz 1.38v
VTT 1.37

Is that a typo? Because if you have 79 degrees on liquid cooling. you have a problem. Maybe a bad seat, or maybe the pump is broken. Who knows, but it shouldn't be that hot, even at 4ghz. it shouldn't be -that- hot. I'm probably wrong, i haven't had a new intel system..


----------



## slekkas

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AcidTrip* 
Is that a typo? Because if you have 79 degrees on liquid cooling. you have a problem. Maybe a bad seat, or maybe the pump is broken. Who knows, but it shouldn't be that hot, even at 4ghz. it shouldn't be -that- hot. I'm probably wrong, i haven't had a new intel system..

With HT on the corcair web site it says that temps are around 83c.

Take a look. http://blog.corsair.com/?p=987

From what i hear H50 is not as good as regular water cooling.


----------



## AcidTrip

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slekkas* 
With HT on the corcair web site it says that temps are around 83c.

Take a look. http://blog.corsair.com/?p=987

From what i hear H50 is not as good as regular water cooling.

Do you have the push pull setup? that would lower your temp somewhat, but i would be kinda nervous if my temps were up that high







, that's just me though. Of course that's under 100% load. So such a high temp would be understandable, What temps do you get gaming?


----------



## sintricate

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slekkas* 

From what i hear H50 is not as good as regular water cooling.

If by regular you mean a WC with thicker tubing and bigger radiators, then yes, it's not as good.

I hope no one expects a pre-built system with a single 120mm rad and such a low volume of fluid to compete with a double or triple rad system


----------



## AcidTrip

Double rad system <3, My dream PC will have a dual rad..I'm only getting the H50 because it keeps the temps just a little cooler than some of the top end air-coolers. I should be ordering all my computer parts at the end of this week


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EaglePC* 
guys from my post http://www.overclock.net/8553382-post4107.html

should i retire my ole cm 830 se case and get a haf 932 ?

i think all my h50 hot air is all over my graphics card like bad breath ...









I've got the HAF 932 and it rules! Fantastic airflow.


----------



## PCSarge

you asked for better pictures of my using an intel P4 cpu heatsink fan on my Asus mobo, enjoy


----------



## pjladyfox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
you asked for better pictures of my using an intel P4 cpu heatsink fan on my Asus mobo, enjoy

You know I used to be surprised by this stuff at first but after getting into PC's hard-core stuff like this just does'nt phase me anymore. Still, a pretty nice lil mod for your heatsink there.


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slekkas* 
78-79c at 4GHz full load in LinX with 50.4200 GFlops is this acceptable? is my PC in any danger?

Vcore in CPUz 1.38v
VTT 1.37

That's not bad







I get those temps at 3.8 in the summer


----------



## slekkas

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie;*
That's not bad







I get those temps at 3.8 in the summer









It's good to know I'm not the only one with these temps. Do you think we are in any danger?


----------



## slekkas

I'd like if it's possible the owners of i7-860 and h50 to post theis idle and full load temperatures. Some recomendagions on how to drop the temp 4-5c would be great. I'm already using push/pull and I replaced the rad fan with scythe 1900 rpm. Also using arctic mx-3.


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slekkas* 
It's good to know I'm not the only one with these temps. Do you think we are in any danger?

If you fold, you might want to drop it a bit, but else it's fine I guess









Quote:


Originally Posted by *slekkas* 
I'd like if it's possible the owners of i7-860 and h50 to post theis idle and full load temperatures. Some recomendagions on how to drop the temp 4-5c would be great. I'm already using push/pull and I replaced the rad fan with scythe 1900 rpm. Also using arctic mx-3.

My idles are good. About 1-2 over ambient. This you can do with a big OC even, by turning on power saving features. My CPU only uses about 13W at idle. I can get that even lower when using EIST, but that seems to cause instability at the same 'fixed' vcore.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dmitt25* 
Ok guys, I've been lurking around here for a bit now. I posted to this thread to have Killhouse add me to the list, but I got missed.

Here's my puzzle. I get the H50 installed on my system, and I'm really timid, because I just got my board back from RMA. Fire the system up for the first time and it seems to be doing just fine.. with the new H50 pumping away. I've got mine set up in push-pull with no shrouds. At stock CPU speeds 2.4GHz I idle at about 25c. At 3.0GHz overclock it sits at a stable 38c idle. ?? So a few days pass (thinking TIM needs to set, although I'm using stock TIM) I decide to run Prime for a few hours watching closely for the first 10 mins or so. The core temps crept up to 49c at 100% load but never any higher. On air this same chip at this same oc would just continue to get hotter and hotter.. 3 hours later and I never jumped higher than 49c...

Why are my idle temps so high but running at full bore doesn't raise the temps much?

I'd like to OC higher than this as I've had this chip to 3.6 so far.. temps were the only limiting factor at that point.

Any suggestions as to why it runs so warm at idle but does such a good job of keeping the higher temps in line?

Thanks in advance!

Make sure your pump and fan is running at full speed at idle, for the lowest temps. Use fan speed monitoring software to ensure this is in fact happening. Pump should be at ~1400rpm and Corsair fan at ~1700rpm(?). Pump should always be at max speed, IMO!


----------



## Volkswagen

If using a Push and Pull setup with the H50

<=Pull (exhaust) RAD <= Push Fan (Intake) where would a shroud be more useful to reduce noise?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pjladyfox* 
You know I used to be surprised by this stuff at first but after getting into PC's hard-core stuff like this just does'nt phase me anymore. Still, a pretty nice lil mod for your heatsink there.









i though it was a good idea, considering the fan was sitting dormant in the old heatsink in my crawlspace, i'm still surprised that its quieter than the pump when its running at full speed


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volkswagen* 
If using a Push and Pull setup with the H50

<=Pull (exhaust) RAD <= Push Fan (Intake) where would a shroud be more useful to reduce noise?

Pull.


----------



## Willhemmens

Well, for me, its time to move on. For me, the H50 has been exaxctly what i needed.
Its been a stepping stone from air cooling to watercooling. It has done everything i have ever asked and done it well.

Going to be installing a Swiftech MCP355 with XSPC top, XSPC Delta V3 block and a 240mm Rad, during the week hopefully.

Will do some comparisons.

Edit: This does mean i have a perfectly working Pump/waterblock spare.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Well, for me, its time to move on. For me, the H50 has been exaxctly what i needed.
Its been a stepping stone from air cooling to watercooling. It has done everything i have ever asked and done it well.

Going to be installing a Swiftech MCP355 with XSPC top, XSPC Delta V3 block and a 240mm Rad, during the week hopefully.

Will do some comparisons.

aww will is running away from us


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
aww will is running away from us
















Will still remember the H50 and will be here for advice, im always around to help.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slekkas* 
It's good to know I'm not the only one with these temps. Do you think we are in any danger?

You are not in danger. I would get better fans sometime soon though. My idle temps are 30C and max load is 85C.

Time for some Scythe Ultra Kazes and 40mm shrouds!

EDIT: Btw, I am using AS5 if that matters.


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
You are not in danger. I would get better fans sometime soon though. My idle temps are 30C and max load is 85C.

Time for some *Deltas/San Aces/Panaflos* and 40mm shrouds!

EDIT: Btw, I am using AS5 if that matters.

Fixed that for ya.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ljason8eg* 
Fixed that for ya.









Find me one for the right price and it's a done deal, lol.


----------



## Snowman53

Me also! Setting up a I7 920 to over clock it. Parts coming this week.








Snowman53


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Find me one for the right price and it's a done deal, lol.

Thats the thing, Ultra Kazes are Cheap as pie. At most places they are atleast half the price of Delta's. This is why i have one and plan to get others. The down side to them is that they click when undervolted, which isnt a problem for everyone. Also Delta's and such can be hard to find. They have Ultra Kaze's on Amazon.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Thats the thing, Ultra Kazes are Cheap as pie. At most places they are atleast half the price of Delta's. This is why i have one and plan to get others. The down side to them is that they click when undervolted, which isnt a problem for everyone. Also Delta's and such can be hard to find. They have Ultra Kaze's on Amazon.

Can't you get deltas at the Egg?


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Find me one for the right price and it's a done deal, lol.

Panaflos are on newegg under the name "Rexus" and they're not that much more expensive when you realize you're paying for a quality fan instead of a cheaply made one.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Can't you get deltas at the Egg?

Yes. Deltas are the most expensive of the three I listed though.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Can't you get deltas at the Egg?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *ljason8eg* 
Panaflos are on newegg under the name "Rexus" and they're not that much more expensive when you realize you're paying for a quality fan instead of a cheaply made one.

Yes. Deltas are the most expensive of the three I listed though.

In the UK.








Wish there was a Newegg in the UK, its an Awesome site.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Thats the thing, Ultra Kazes are Cheap as pie. At most places they are atleast half the price of Delta's. This is why i have one and plan to get others. The down side to them is that they click when undervolted, which isnt a problem for everyone. Also Delta's and such can be hard to find. They have Ultra Kaze's on Amazon.

Ultra Kazes have sleeve bearings too, instead of ball bearings. Sleeve bearings on a fan spinning at 2000 or especially 3000rpm may not be such a great idea. Don't expect them to last too long. Hence the difference in price. They are really cheap locally and I may just buy one to make a shroud. Performance PCs has a large assortment of 38mm fans.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Ultra Kazes have sleeve bearings too, instead of ball bearings. Sleeve bearings on a fan spinning at 2000 or especially 3000rpm may not be such a great idea. Don't expect them to last too long. Hence the difference in price. They are really cheap locally and I may just buy one to make a shroud. Performance PCs has a large assortment of 38mm fans.

Its hard to find 38mm thick fans in the UK. If i could get decently priced Delta's, i would snap them straight up. I've even tried buying straight from Delta.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Find me one for the right price and it's a done deal, lol.

oh no.. guitar guy has the same case as me







should be fun, do what i did with R4's and you should have a pretty chilled pc, my mobo reads temps of 19C so i'm happy


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
oh no.. guitar guy has the same case as me







should be fun, do what i did with R4's and you should have a pretty chilled pc, my mobo reads temps of 19C so i'm happy









I've got it too! I thought the Antec 900 was nice until I bought this one, couldn't be happier.


----------



## slekkas

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Find me one for the right price and it's a done deal, lol.

+1

The H50 has stimulated my appetite for some serious Water Cooling


----------



## slekkas

Does the VTT affect the CPU temps? Or at least does it affect the temps less then the vcore? If yes should i increase my VTT and try to lower my vcore? How high is it safe to put the VTT?


----------



## Rains

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Hmm I'm stumped, those temperatures are were similar to mine but my ambient is 26C. What are you using to measure your ambient?
*Front page updated*

I have a little temp gauge with a digital readout


















Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
It depends if you the threads that come with the H50's AMD backplate or if you are using the metal full AMD one.

The metal one allows you to use the course. The smaller ones are for the H50's.

Exactly right! The finer threads work with Corsair's backplate; the courser threads work with the stock AMD backplate.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pjladyfox* 

*chuckles* No worries and no foul hon.

Im glad you found the guide useful and thanks for the rep.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
you asked for better pictures of my using an intel P4 cpu heatsink fan on my Asus mobo, enjoy

Ahhh... much better. Nice setup. Thanks for taking the time to do that.


----------



## Iroh

Something I've been wondering... does the waterblock conduct enough heat passively to handle standby? It shouldn't be a whole lot as the computer only is taking about 2 watts in standby, but I was just curious if anyone did some extended tests. I know the core goes up to about 40C on mine if I standby for 5 minutes and I haven't had much spare time to do progressively extended ones.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Iroh* 
Something I've been wondering... does the waterblock conduct enough heat passively to handle standby? It shouldn't be a whole lot as the computer only is taking about 2 watts in standby, but I was just curious if anyone did some extended tests. I know the core goes up to about 40C on mine if I standby for 5 minutes and I haven't had much spare time to do progressively extended ones.

Do you mean with no fan on the radiator, or with the pump off? No fan on the radiator is doable with good case airflow but never really necessary. And dont run your it without your pump running, while idle my computer would rock up to near critical temperature. If I unplug the pump while I'm folding my computer would thermally crash within 8-10 seconds.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rains* 
I have a little temp gauge with a digital readout









Similar to what I used to get, I suggest you get some stronger fans on there to drop your temperature









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Its hard to find 38mm thick fans in the UK. If i could get decently priced Delta's, i would snap them straight up. I've even tried buying straight from Delta.

Specialtech often do a nice range of fans, but no Deltas still. I would highly recommend a Feser Triebwerk 122 though, a beautiful fan to handle the radiator all on it's own









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Well, for me, its time to move on. For me, the H50 has been exaxctly what i needed.
Its been a stepping stone from air cooling to watercooling. It has done everything i have ever asked and done it well.

Going to be installing a Swiftech MCP355 with XSPC top, XSPC Delta V3 block and a 240mm Rad, during the week hopefully.

Will do some comparisons.

Edit: This does mean i have a perfectly working Pump/waterblock spare.

Farewell Will, was nice to see you here. Now how about you turn the H50 into a GPU cooler?









Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
you asked for better pictures of my using an intel P4 cpu heatsink fan on my Asus mobo, enjoy

Thats pretty awesome! I've toyed with this idea, but it wont fit









Quote:


Originally Posted by *pjladyfox* 
*rubs her eyes* Damn, it took me a week but I'm FINALLY caught up with this thread all 42 pages worth. And to think I get to look forward to that again with the Antec 300 thread. *sigh*
[...]

BTW, Killhouse was that Shin-Etsu info useful to you at all?

+rep to you for an epic post







And nice work reading all through this thread, you and I are probably the only people to have read every post!

It was indeed useful, I'll be changing the FAQ soon with new changes









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ablearcher* 
I figure the H50 is about 52mm "thick" with the fan attached, am I incorrect?
The FAQ linked from the first page states some 27mm for the radiator, and most fans are 25mm thick, so I figure about 52mm.

Thank you very much!

Correct









Quote:


Originally Posted by *dmitt25* 
Ok guys, I've been lurking around here for a bit now. I posted to this thread to have Killhouse add me to the list, but I got missed.

_Fix't_ - sorry about that!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Its tricky... check this...









Sorted, I had to log into google to share it









_*Front page updated.*_


----------



## Wikidboo

Im loving this H50....best cooler I've owned. My temps never go above low 60's even after playing a couple of hours of MW2


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wikidboo* 
Im loving this H50....best cooler I've owned. My temps never go above low 60's even after playing a couple of hours of MW2



lol wiki had the same idea in his head as i have in mine...why a knob fan controller, digital ftw, mine are on order oh btw, gj on case choice, the HAF 932 has the best airflow i've seen though i can say, 4 intake R4's on the side panel, drops temps real well


----------



## PCSarge

oh, btw killhouse, it seems it was a good idea.... the heatsink its on...is room temp to the touch now

i also relocated my H50 back to the rear exhaust position w/ no shrouds... oddly my temps dropped from exhaust w/ shrouds on top it shaved 3 degrees off somehow ( i think its cause its exhausting freezing cold air from the side intake R4's)


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ljason8eg* 
Panaflos are on newegg under the name "Rexus" and they're not that much more expensive when you realize you're paying for a quality fan instead of a cheaply made one.

Yes. Deltas are the most expensive of the three I listed though.

Hmm, maybe Rexus 2700rpm would be best then.

What about the San Aces (120mm)? I haven't been able to find any on google.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
oh no.. guitar guy has the same case as me







should be fun, do what i did with R4's and you should have a pretty chilled pc, my mobo reads temps of 19C so i'm happy









Sounds like I need to order some R4's and contain some of my excitement


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Sounds like I need to order some R4's and contain some of my excitement









may i reccomend the red LED model, it looks alot better than blue/green does, truly you need 8 if u wanna change the fans on the H50, if your going to leave the fans on your H50 alone, get 6 (4 on side, 2 top exhaust) they also helped drop my temps on my graphics card (the side intake is blowing right on it) by about 3-4 degrees


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Hmm, maybe Rexus 2700rpm would be best then.

What about the San Aces (120mm)? I haven't been able to find any on google.

San Aces can be found on newark.com


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ljason8eg* 
San Aces can be found on newark.com

Thanks! +rep


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
may i reccomend the red LED model, it looks alot better than blue/green does truly you need 8 if u wanna change the fans on the H50, if your going to leave the fans on your H50 alone, get 6 (4 on side, 2 top exhaust) they also helped drop my temps on my graphics card (the side intake is blowing right on it) by about 3-4 degrees

I agree. It wouldn't look right to have green led fans or blue on my case with a large red one in the front. It would probably look pretty tacky.

From the looks of your case, I think that my case will look pretty [email protected]$$ with the new red led ones. Now for a couple cold cathodes and I would be halfway done until I get red coolant for the H50.

After all of that, I will be satisfied when I see major temp drops (10C).


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
I agree. It wouldn't look right to have green led fans or blue on my case with a large red one in the front. It would probably look pretty tacky.

From the looks of your case, I think that my case will look pretty [email protected]$$ with the new red led ones. Now for a couple cold cathodes and I would be halfway done until I get red coolant for the H50.

After all of that, I will be satisfied when I see major temp drops (10C).









i can say, i'm soon thinking of getting another 120mm rad and a res and modding my H50... i still dont trust myself though, if i screw up i'm done for air cooling you can kinda tell i have many years of experience in....i remeber dealing with old dell optiplexes that my friends had when i was younger
no room in the cases to work, but i always found something to move air around with


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
i can say, i'm soon thinking of getting another 120mm rad and a res and modding my H50... i still dont trust myself though, if i screw up i'm done for air cooling you can kinda tell i have many years of experience in....i remeber dealing with old dell optiplexes that my friends had when i was younger
no room in the cases to work, but i always found something to move air around with

I might go ahead with a 2x120 rad since our case works well for that if you mount it on the top. Modding the H50 isn't so bad as long as you don't mess up the barbs or the pump. Be patient with the knife and you are good!

I remember having an old Coolermaster HSF for my core2duo back in the day. Now that is a backup PC. I learned to cable manage from smaller cases.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
I might go ahead with a 2x120 rad since our case works well for that if you mount it on the top. Modding the H50 isn't so bad as long as you don't mess up the barbs or the pump. Be patient with the knife and you are good!

I remember having an old Coolermaster HSF for my core2duo back in the day. Now that is a backup PC. I learned to cable manage from smaller cases.

cable manage







you make me grin.. .i should take pics of the inside of my case now, i jsut finished properly cable tying everything down again


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
cable manage







you make me grin.. .i should take pics of the inside of my case now, i jsut finished properly cable tying everything down again

If you do, I will


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
If you do, I will









k... gimmie a couple mins to get some decent light in my case


----------



## PCSarge

here you go, considering your curious, oh and if your wondering, i painted and polished my psu, thats why it reflects light

EDIT: dont mind the cables on the floor outside the pc, thats the fault of the T.V it connects to


----------



## XinjaX

heres my h50 just got it done a few days ago


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


here you go, considering your curious, oh and if your wondering, i painted and polished my psu, thats why it reflects light

EDIT: dont mind the cables on the floor outside the pc, thats the fault of the T.V it connects to


I see a nice reflection on your PSU haha. How long did it take you to do this exactly? Mine took a while


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


I see a nice reflection on your PSU haha. How long did it take you to do this exactly? Mine took a while




















mine took me... about 15 minutes roughly, i had to cut my original ties to re-arrange when i put that new psu in after i painted it.To take that apart to paint it up and polish it, was a very long process, but it looks amazing in the end. Oh i'm gonna say this, the top and side panel 230mm fans...move like zero air thier only 800-1000 rpm i believe i only left the front to blow on my HDD and because its red so it matches


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XinjaX*


heres my h50 just got it done a few days ago


Love the UV lights!


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


mine took me... about 15 minutes roughly, i had to cut my original ties to re-arrange when i put that new psu in after i painted it.To take that apart to paint it up and polish it, was a very long process, but it looks amazing in the end. Oh i'm gonna say this, the top and side panel 230mm fans...move like zero air thier only 800-1000 rpm i believe i only left the front to blow on my HDD and because its red so it matches


Maybe this week I can get a couple panaflos and shrouds for my rad. Then I will move the other fans on top or something. I could move the rad to the top like you did.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Maybe this week I can get a couple panaflos and shrouds for my rad. Then I will move the other fans on top or something. I could move the rad to the top like you did.

as you saw i since relocated it back to rear exhaust, for some reason it didnt have too much air flowing through it in top exhaust.....tried top intake aswell same result, it may work for you, but it works better for me rear exhaust, after i moved it back i shaved 3-4 degrees off my cpu temps


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 

Sorted, I had to log into google to share it









_*Front page updated.*_

Thanks mate... looks much smicker (is that a word?)


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
I agree. It wouldn't look right to have green led fans or blue on my case with a large red one in the front. It would probably look pretty tacky.

From the looks of your case, I think that my case will look pretty [email protected]$$ with the new red led ones. Now for a couple cold cathodes and I would be halfway done until I get red coolant for the H50.

After all of that, I will be satisfied when I see major temp drops (10C).









Off course it looks good, in a rainbow kind of way









I got 2 green R4's, 2 blue case fans, and the big red one in front.

The blue ones seems to attract a lot of bugs though


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
Off course it looks good, in a rainbow kind of way









I got 2 green R4's, 2 blue case fans, and the big red one in front.

The blue ones seems to attract a lot of bugs though









blue fans are like bug lights... thier only around to glow and make bugs block the airflow of your case


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
blue fans are like bug lights... thier only around to glow and make bugs block the airflow of your case

Not in my case







The blue ones are 'suspended' over the side window inside the case. So I just get the bugs slamming into my side window







. My cats seem to enjoy this


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
blue fans are like bug lights... thier only around to glow and make bugs block the airflow of your case

Blasphemy you say! I thought they were supposed to increase your OC by 200Mhz. Next thing you know one of you is gonna tell me headlights don't require fluid....


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
as you saw i since relocated it back to rear exhaust, for some reason it didnt have too much air flowing through it in top exhaust.....tried top intake aswell same result, it may work for you, but it works better for me rear exhaust, after i moved it back i shaved 3-4 degrees off my cpu temps

That's good news since I really didn't feel like relocating it haha.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
Blasphemy you say! I thought they were supposed to increase your OC by 200Mhz. Next thing you know one of you is gonna tell me headlights don't require fluid....









nice giant bug zapper rooster





































have fun cleaning out your case, it will be filled with chopped up bug bodies


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
That's good news since I really didn't feel like relocating it haha.

its nice when people try things for you isnt it guitarguy xD


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
its nice when people try things for you isnt it guitarguy xD

Well no, I like the thrill of the hunt. xD


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Well no, I like the thrill of the hunt. xD

funny part is... people say R4's make noise...all you hear is air moving at a massive rate, the fans make no audible noise


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
funny part is... people say R4's make noise...all you hear is air moving at a massive rate, the fans make no audible noise

That's people for you, blaming things that really don't need to be blamed. It can be pretty bad sometimes.


----------



## RYKARDO

You can add me.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
That's people for you, blaming things that really don't need to be blamed. It can be pretty bad sometimes.

when it says on the package 19DBA @ 2000RPMs which kinda means thier silent... but 90CFM x 8 = some airflow noise (well audible airflow noise, its not so bad, makes your pc into a good air curculation unit too)


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


when it says on the package 19DBA @ 2000RPMs which kinda means thier silent... but 90CFM x 8 = some airflow noise (well audible airflow noise, its not so bad, makes your pc into a good air curculation unit too)


I use my PC as a space heater


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


I use my PC as a space heater










yeah... all u gotta do for that is turn it on and run linpack for 6 hrs lol


----------



## dmitt25

Ok, now I'm at 3.6GHz and the temperatures haven't changed! Either CoreTemp is broken, or this lil H50 is the shiz.


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


when it says on the package 19DBA @ 2000RPMs which kinda means thier silent... but 90CFM x 8 = some airflow noise (well audible airflow noise, its not so bad, makes your pc into a good air curculation unit too)


That's 19dba at minimum speed (600RPM). At full speed it is 32dba (or probably more).


----------



## Rains

Just a heads up to all the AM2/ AM3 users out there. Use the Corsair backplate, not the AMD one. I just cracked my motherboard after trying to use my stock backplate with the plastic round tabs removed. It was only ~1mm difference; that is, ~1mm lower mounting surface than the Corsair backplate, but it was enough.

I thought I was being smart, and I could get just a touch more pressure and a better mount. Bad idea. Don't do it. To summarize:


----------



## mr-Charles

...sorry to hear about's the out come of your mthrbrd;

...that/this is why i have decided to go with  = *this* =  for the use 
of my H50 system . . . . . . my 2







worth of

{...BTW / the back-plate for *this* option is solid/thick metal, too . . .







}

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## slekkas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


I use my PC as a space heater










So can you tell me your final temps at 4GHz?

How did you achieve them and if possible give me all your settings so i can try them out. I cannot go under 82c full load with Linx. At least it's stable for 2 Hours all memory.


----------



## Penryn

I'm still in shock at how your 860 is so hot! My i7 never passes 60C... What's your vcore at?


----------



## slekkas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Penryn*


I'm still in shock at how your 860 is so hot! My i7 never passes 60C... What's your vcore at?


vcore 1.356v
VTT 1.4v

If in VTT i put anything under 1.4 my system does not pass Linx test without errors.

I have been trying everything. I am using Scythe 1900RPM fans. Scythe - Shroud - RAD - Scythe.

I've even cut my honeycomb in the back of my case and placed the fan and the shroud outside the case for better ventilation. Now I'm waiting to replace the mx-3 thermal paste that I'm using to the original shin-etsu to see if that's going to drop a couple degrees. I'm sure there must be a way to get my temps at around 75c. I don't think my vcore and vtt are that high to justify 82c.


----------



## Penryn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slekkas*


vcore 1.356v
VTT 1.4v

If in VTT i put anything under 1.4 my system does not pass Linx test without errors.


What about your DRAM voltage?


----------



## slekkas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Penryn*


What about your DRAM voltage?


DRAM 1.65v

I've even cut my honeycomb in the back of my case and placed the fan and the shroud outside the case for better ventilation. Now I'm waiting to replace the mx-3 thermal paste that I'm using to the original shin-etsu to see if that's going to drop a couple degrees. I'm sure there must be a way to get my temps at around 75c. I don't think my vcore and vtt are that high to justify 82c.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rains* 
Just a heads up to all the AM2/ AM3 users out there. Use the Corsair backplate, not the AMD one. I just cracked my motherboard

Well, that sux!

Thank you for passing on the warning. I hope there is no long term problems associated with that.


----------



## kamyk155

I solve my problem with temps:

1. push fan (inside the case - scythe gentle typhoon 1850rpm)
2. shroud 25mm
3. RAD
4. shroud 25mm
5. pull fan (outside the case - scythe gentle typhoon 1850rpm)

And better thermal compound - Coollaboratory Liquid Pro.
Before this i got 2x 1100rpm fans push/rad/pull and use Zalman STG-2.
Now temps are about 7-10*C lower when heating with Prime95 and about 3-5*C lower in Idle.
Now i7 860 @ 3,8GHz 1,32V (stress) 1,28175 (bios)
Cores heat - from 74-77*C
Cores idle - from 31-35*C
Heres the pic:


----------



## yang88she

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kamyk155* 
I solve my problem with temps:

1. push fan (inside the case - scythe gentle typhoon 1850rpm)
2. shroud 25mm
3. RAD
4. shroud 25mm
5. pull fan (outside the case - scythe gentle typhoon 1850rpm)

And better thermal compound - Coollaboratory Liquid Pro.
Before this i got 2x 1100rpm fans push/rad/pull and use Zalman STG-2.
Now temps are about 7-10*C lower when heating with Prime95 and about 3-5*C lower in Idle.
Now i7 860 @ 3,8GHz 1,32V (stress) 1,28175 (bios)
Cores heat - from 74-77*C
Cores idle - from 31-35*C
Heres the pic:


wow...how's the noise?


----------



## slekkas

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kamyk155* 
I solve my problem with temps:

1. push fan (inside the case - scythe gentle typhoon 1850rpm)
2. shroud 25mm
3. RAD
4. shroud 25mm
5. pull fan (outside the case - scythe gentle typhoon 1850rpm)

And better thermal compound - Coollaboratory Liquid Pro.
Before this i got 2x 1100rpm fans push/rad/pull and use Zalman STG-2.
Now temps are about 7-10*C lower when heating with Prime95 and about 3-5*C lower in Idle.
Now i7 860 @ 3,8GHz 1,32V (stress) 1,28175 (bios)
Cores heat - from 74-77*C
Cores idle - from 31-35*C
Heres the pic:

Since i have huge heat problems i will try this right now. I'm lucky enough to have an unsealed liquid pro right here with i never used. Can you tell me how you applied the liquid pro?


----------



## kamyk155

Noise is really ok - not much louder than 1100rps fans (i think because of shrouds).
I use the Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra Set. Inside are two brushes to better apply the compound on the CPU. Its important to good clean the CPU before it.


----------



## slekkas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kamyk155*


I solve my problem with temps:

1. push fan (inside the case - scythe gentle typhoon 1850rpm)
2. shroud 25mm
3. RAD
4. shroud 25mm
5. pull fan (outside the case - scythe gentle typhoon 1850rpm)

And better thermal compound - Coollaboratory Liquid Pro.
Before this i got 2x 1100rpm fans push/rad/pull and use Zalman STG-2.
Now temps are about 7-10*C lower when heating with Prime95 and about 3-5*C lower in Idle.
Now i7 860 @ 3,8GHz 1,32V (stress) 1,28175 (bios)
Cores heat - from 74-77*C
Cores idle - from 31-35*C
Heres the pic:


Great success my friend. I did exactly like you did and now after two hours of IBT my temp is 77c. 5c drop is pretty good. The only think i regret not doing is making the changes one at a time so i can see witch one does what. I wonder if i switch my RAD fans to intake if it would make a difference. I had better results before with intake instead of exhaust. The Liquid pro did an amazing job as well i guess. Not quite sure how amazing since i made the changes all at once.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kamyk155* 
I solve my problem with temps:

1. push fan (inside the case - scythe gentle typhoon 1850rpm)
2. shroud 25mm
3. RAD
4. shroud 25mm
5. pull fan (outside the case - scythe gentle typhoon 1850rpm)

And better thermal compound - Coollaboratory Liquid Pro.
Before this i got 2x 1100rpm fans push/rad/pull and use Zalman STG-2.
Now temps are about 7-10*C lower when heating with Prime95 and about 3-5*C lower in Idle.
Now i7 860 @ 3,8GHz 1,32V (stress) 1,28175 (bios)
Cores heat - from 74-77*C
Cores idle - from 31-35*C
Heres the pic:


----------



## slekkas

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 









Is your setup intake or exhaust?


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slekkas* 
Is your setup intake or exhaust?

Front intake. Click on my camera icon to see pics.


----------



## Sethy666

Hey folks,

I recieved my 2 x Scythe Ultra Kaze 2000s today and I plan to fit them tonight. (Im in the middle of a foldathon, so it may be the weekend)

I will let you know how it goes.

*looser101*, I know you said they where not anything special but I would like to see how they perform. Given the crappy fans Im using now, its gotta be an improvement.

The fall back plan is, if they dont impress me, to order in some CM R4s and use the Ultra Kazes as shrouds... nothing like recycling









Wish me luck


----------



## Iroh

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rains* 
Just a heads up to all the AM2/ AM3 users out there. Use the Corsair backplate, not the AMD one. I just cracked my motherboard after trying to use my stock backplate with the plastic round tabs removed. It was only ~1mm difference; that is, ~1mm lower mounting surface than the Corsair backplate, but it was enough.

I thought I was being smart, and I could get just a touch more pressure and a better mount. Bad idea. Don't do it. To summarize:

http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/4224/img2034k.jpg

http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/5504/img2037d.jpg

Wow that's kind of a kicker. Perhaps a warning for AMDers with plastic backplates. My AMD backplate was 100% steel and its threaded parts protruded up into the holes of the mainboard (iirc they were flush with the front face of the board) so it couldn't put more than a minute force on the board itself because it bottoms out on the plate's protrusions.

Never have been a fan of the plastic backplate. Buddy of mine has an am2 board that is bent to a boggling curve because of the stock retention clip on the cpu. Miracle is, it still works.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Hey folks,

I recieved my 2 x Scythe Ultra Kaze 2000s today and I plan to fit them tonight. (Im in the middle of a foldathon, so it may be the weekend)

I will let you know how it goes.

*looser101*, I know you said they where not anything special but I would like to see how they perform. Given the crappy fans Im using now, its gotta be an improvement.

The fall back plan is, if they dont impress me, to order in some CM R4s and use the Ultra Kazes as shrouds... nothing like recycling









Wish me luck









Good luck


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Hey folks,

I recieved my 2 x Scythe Ultra Kaze 2000s today and I plan to fit them tonight. (Im in the middle of a foldathon, so it may be the weekend)

I will let you know how it goes.

*looser101*, I know you said they where not anything special but I would like to see how they perform. Given the crappy fans Im using now, its gotta be an improvement.

The fall back plan is, if they dont impress me, to order in some CM R4s and use the Ultra Kazes as shrouds... nothing like recycling









Wish me luck









If you look closely at the Scythe UK fans you will see that on the motor side there is a big gap between the blades and what will be your rad. On the intake side of the fan there is virtually no gap. I think that because of the gap you can get away with not using a shroud on the push side. On the pull side it's a must... 2x25mm shrouds if you can fit them. I only tested it as a pull fan with the 1 and 2 shrouds. Performance wise it was in same class as R4s or High speed GTs, hence I didn't pursue any further testing. They are crazy cheap here at only $10CDN, and I drive by that store every day. It's tempting to go buy some for use as shrouds. Good luck and let us know how it goes. Definitely interested on with and without the push fan.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
If you look closely at the Scythe UK fans you will see that on the motor side there is a big gap between the blades and what will be your rad. On the intake side of the fan there is virtually no gap. I think that because of the gap you can get away with not using a shroud on the push side. On the pull side it's a must... 2x25mm shrouds if you can fit them. I only tested it as a pull fan with the 1 and 2 shrouds. Performance wise it was in same class as R4s or High speed GTs, hence I didn't pursue any further testing. They are crazy cheap here at only $10CDN, and I drive by that store every day. It's tempting to go buy some for use as shrouds. Good luck and let us know how it goes. Definitely interested on with and without the push fan.

Thanks for that.

I plan on using a 25mm shroud for both push and pull fans. My rad is attached to the outside of my case, so I have room to play internally. (the case, that is...)

Whoa... I wish they where "crazy cheap" here. They are $Aus22 each here - damn those import and GST taxes







R4s are like $Aus19 each.

Oh well, like they say,,, dont die wondering.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Hey folks,

I recieved my 2 x Scythe Ultra Kaze 2000s today and I plan to fit them tonight. (Im in the middle of a foldathon, so it may be the weekend)

I will let you know how it goes.

*looser101*, I know you said they where not anything special but I would like to see how they perform. Given the crappy fans Im using now, its gotta be an improvement.

The fall back plan is, if they dont impress me, to order in some CM R4s and use the Ultra Kazes as shrouds... nothing like recycling









Wish me luck









what the heck is a folding team


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
what the heck is a folding team 

It's where a bunch of people get together after doing laundry and just go bananas folding for hours on end! Lots of fun!


----------



## looser101

^ Looks like those GTs are working for you. Nice overclock.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
what the heck is a folding team 

Girl, you gotta get out more









Quote:

http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...l-threads.html

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery*
It's where a bunch of people get together after doing laundry and just go bananas folding for hours on end! Lots of fun!

Your just a barrel of monkeys, arent you...


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
^ Looks like those GTs are working for you. Nice overclock.

Oh yeah! I'm very pleased with the GT 1850's!


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
It's where a bunch of people get together after doing laundry and just go bananas folding for hours on end! Lots of fun!









oh god lmao


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*
It's where a bunch of people get together after doing laundry and just go bananas folding for hours on end! Lots of fun!









Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
Your just a barrel of monkeys, arent you...










Hahaha, yeah.. sometimes it's good to let loose every so often.


----------



## Savvywalnut

Hows it going guys i have a quick question.. i have the h50 connected with a push/pull exhaust on the radiator with 2x 120mm fan. I dont have a top vent but i have a front and side vent. I have the front vent with a 120mm fan in exhaust but im not sure what i should have my side vent (120mm) on exhaust or intake. Anyone have any advice i would appreciate it. thanks


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Originally Posted by xmisery
It's where a bunch of people get together after doing laundry and just go bananas folding for hours on end! Lots of fun!

Hahaha, yeah.. sometimes it's good to let loose every so often.










i think thats a lie and its a folding program on pc lol


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Savvywalnut*


Hows it going guys i have a quick question.. i have the h50 connected with a push/pull exhaust on the radiator with 2x 120mm fan. I dont have a top vent but i have a front and side vent. I have the front vent with a 120mm fan in exhaust but im not sure what i should have my side vent (120mm) on exhaust or intake. Anyone have any advice i would appreciate it. thanks



Id make the side vent an intake. Cases need fresh air too









What is your case / mobo temps like?


----------



## Savvywalnut

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Id make the side vent an intake. Cases need fresh air too









What is your case / mobo temps like?


I just built the computer today was just wondering if there were any advantages to having all exhaust or 1 intake. I will test it when i get my windows disk tomorrow. But I just wanted to see if anyone had any advice.. Ill try the intake first. Thanks


----------



## CaptnBB

Here's an update to what I have on the go for tonight and tomorrow. A modded faceplate, and a MCR320 radiator being installed.

1. Only part of the pile.
Attachment 143294

2. Face all masked off for cutting.
Attachment 143293

3. Part of the mess while a work in progress.
Attachment 143291

4. Almost done. 
Attachment 143292

5. Completed stage one of the upgrade.
Attachment 143295

I will be posting more info and details on what I am working on as the project progresses. Look forward to lots more pics and info coming soon.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Savvywalnut*


I just built the computer today was just wondering if there were any advantages to having all exhaust or 1 intake. I will test it when i get my windows disk tomorrow. But I just wanted to see if anyone had any advice.. Ill try the intake first. Thanks


Theres plenty of theory behind positive and negative pressure for air flow.

It will really depend on your setup and how warm it gets in your case. You will need to find a balance between get fresh air in and getting the hot air out.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CaptBB*

Here's an update to what I have on the go for tonight and tomorrow. A modded faceplate, and a MCR320 radiator being installed.


Looking good! Ill be following your progress closely.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i think thats a lie and its a folding program on pc lol










Ding ding!


----------



## Elementality

Add me to the list.


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CaptnBB* 
Here's an update to what I have on the go for tonight and tomorrow. A modded faceplate, and a MCR320 radiator being installed.

damn can't wait to see this mod completed. h50 with 360mm rad! that would be awesome.

good luck and keep us updated

+rep


----------



## CaptnBB

I Just finished a fresh Win 7 install. You will be kept up to date.


----------



## Rains

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CaptnBB* 
Here's an update to what I have on the go for tonight and tomorrow. A modded faceplate, and a MCR320 radiator being installed.

The MCR320 is so my idea









But since you are actually doing it and I'm sitting here with a broken motherboard, I'll have to live my dreams through you














I'm excited to see how it goes!


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rains* 
The MCR320 is so my idea









But since you are actually doing it and I'm sitting here with a broken motherboard, I'll have to live my dreams through you














I'm excited to see how it goes!

Ditto


----------



## CaptnBB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rains* 
The MCR320 is so my idea









But since you are actually doing it and I'm sitting here with a broken motherboard, I'll have to live my dreams through you














I'm excited to see how it goes!

ha ha, I beg to differ. http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8459706


----------



## Rains

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CaptnBB* 
ha ha, I beg to differ. http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8459706
























You win this time Gadget! *Mad Cat yowls in background*


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Thanks for that.

I plan on using a 25mm shroud for both push and pull fans. My rad is attached to the outside of my case, so I have room to play internally. (the case, that is...)

Whoa... I wish they where "crazy cheap" here. They are $Aus22 each here - damn those import and GST taxes







R4s are like $Aus19 each.

Oh well, like they say,,, dont die wondering.

That's way expensive for R4's







In South Africa, I can get them for less than US$10









OTOH I will need to pay 2.5 times more for a Scythe UK (which is about the same as I would need to pay for an industrial (highspeed+noisy) 38mm fan).


----------



## Klemy

Please add me to the list! Got mine today.


----------



## Blinkwing

I've just purchased a H50, but the supplier only has the Intel brackets, so I have to contact Corsair to get the AM3 brackets.

Anyone know the average price of these? Note: I live in New Zealand, which is pretty far.


----------



## gumbie

Pretty impressed with my h50 atm





































Some pics of my temps at a 26c ambient room temperature


----------



## CaptnBB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rains* 
You win this time Gadget! *Mad Cat yowls in background*









Mu Ahhh Ha Ha Ha, *cough*, *cough*, Ha...

On a serious note, what are you plans for a MB now?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RYKARDO*


You can add me.






































lmao same mobo as me, should take a look at my P4 cpu fan on that heatsink under the pump, it made that heatsink room temp to the touch how dod you get the HAF logo white? mine came black kind of annoying


----------



## gunny0628

Proud owner of a freshly installed H50 in an Antec 1200 using the push/pull method.

Please add me to the list.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gunny0628*


Proud owner of a freshly installed H50 in an Antec 1200 using the push/pull method.

Please add me to the list.


better change the megahalems off your system stats then







and welcome to the club


----------



## gcwebbyuk

About to buy an H50 to use with the system in my signature.

I am interested in how noisy they are compared to an air setup. I would be using the H50 with two Scythe S-Flex E (1200rpm) fans in a push/pull exhausting the air out the back of the case.

At present, idling I can hear my Zalman over the two Scythes at 600rpm each when they are mounted as case fans. Would they be producing enough air to match the Zalman's temps?

With a 20c ambient temp, I get roughly 26-27c idle and 55c load (Prime 95) - this is with CPU at stock voltage and speed.


----------



## GroupB

Get me in, Got the system since 2 week now , working good.

I also lap the corsair but not the cpu at first ( want to test it first) but next time I remove the H50 or im cleaning the case I will lap the cpu. I also use IC7

Temps are nice and system is silence ( its good cause I use to watch tv on this computer, But im building another with old component for that , I dont like the idea of runing a water system 24/7) ... not like my old thermaltake max orb I have to put at max speed to keep my X2 6400 below 60c... sound like a turbo jet

Ambiance 22c 
Idle core 32, Tcase or socket 24c 
Load core 44, Tcase or socket 36c

Rad are install in the front upper 4 slot of my antec 900

I have push pull of my old thermaltake smart fan II for testing at first ( they can be ajusted) but I also buy 2 Scythe S-Flex 1200, Im still wondering if I will try them or not, I Dont know wich one is better with rad

Also I have to tell its hard to lap a h50 , holding the rad with one hand and the base with the other, you have to go very slowly cause of the tube and the rad, the base flip easy.


----------



## Katsuragi

I'm running the Push/Pull method (intake gives me the best temps)

Got my system stabilized to 4Ghz and could not be happier.

Please add me to the proud owners list









Temps might seems a bit high for idle but I took this SS right as LinX finished. My rig stays at 37/38 on idle.

For those interested in how my fans are setup, I have the stock Antec fans running at "medium" and the stock corsair fan pulling unthrottled. My side fan is a scythe S-flex and is intake also. Exhaust is the big boy running at full power at the top of the case. Front intake fans are all running at "low"


----------



## WoodiE

New guy in town signing in. Been running my Corsair H50 for about 2-3 weeks now on my Intel 8500. I was looking for some fan info for the H50 and came across this thread on Google so figured I'd get your guys input.

My CPU is not overclocked and runs about 43c idle and only raises a degree or two under full load using Prime95 for about 10-15 minutes. The temp in the room is about 70-73F.

Right now I'm running the stock fan that came with the H50 but I'm wondering, if I replace it with a set of Scythe SFF21D fan's in a push/pull fashion if I could expect to see any improvement in temp or would it actually raise the temp since they are only 800RPM fans?

Second, if the fans I have now wouldn't be idea - what fan(s) would you guys recommend that might lower the temp a little further but still remain very quiet?

Thanks!


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WoodiE* 
New guy in town signing in. Been running my Corsair H50 for about 2-3 weeks now on my Intel 8500. I was looking for some fan info for the H50 and came across this thread on Google so figured I'd get your guys input.

My CPU is not overclocked and runs about 43c idle and only raises a degree or two under full load using Prime95 for about 10-15 minutes. The temp in the room is about 70-73F.

Right now I'm running the stock fan that came with the H50 but I'm wondering, if I replace it with a set of Scythe SFF21D fan's in a push/pull fashion if I could expect to see any improvement in temp or would it actually raise the temp since they are only 800RPM fans?

Second, if the fans I have now wouldn't be idea - what fan(s) would you guys recommend that might lower the temp a little further but still remain very quiet?

Thanks!

I'm a huge fan of the Gentle Typhoons! They push a great deal of air "through the radiator" and are quiet. If you're set on 800rpm fans here's a quick comparison of the two. Also, if you look under the "Specifications" section for each it'll list out the other fan options and their related info in case you want to go to a faster fan.

Scythe S-Flex
Model #: SFF21D
Dimensions: 120x120x25mm
Fan Speed: 800rpm
Fan Noise: 8.7 dBA
Air Flow: 33.5 CFM
Rated Current: 0.10A

Gentle Typhoon
Model #: D1225C12B2AP-12
Dimensions: 120x120x25mm
Fan Speed: 800rpm
Fan Noise: 9 dBA
Air Flow: 48 mÂ³/h
Rated Current: 0.023


----------



## WoodiE

xmisery,

Thanks for the quick feedback. While I'm not stuck on 800RPM by no means, I'm just after a fan that will get the job done and is quiet in doing so.

I'll definitely take a look at those Gentle Typhoons!


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WoodiE*


xmisery,

Thanks for the quick feedback. While I'm not stuck on 800RPM by no means, I'm just after a fan that will get the job done and is quiet in doing so.

I'll definitely take a look at those Gentle Typhoons!



Yeah, like I mentioned, I'm a huge fan (lol pun intended). I run the fastest GT's they make (AP-15 1850rpm) and I can't hear them. But check the dBA ratings and see what would be best for you. If you're looking for something even quieter, drop down a notch to the AP-14's (1450rpm).

EDIT: They're also using a double ball-bearing and it's funny to see them still spinning for about a good minute even after I shutdown my system!


----------



## larryparamedic

Speaking of fans...how much does it matter if you manually set the RPM of a fan higher than what it's advertised at?


----------



## sintricate

nevermind


----------



## Killhouse

_*Front page wont be updated til Monday as I'm at home working on Paroxysm, posting from my phone.*_


----------



## trivium nate

add me on list


----------



## mike44njdevils

Finally got this thing installed last night. RAM issues aside, I had previously been very wary about unlocking the cores as they ran hot, I didn't even think to overclock....now I'm on all 4 cores with a healthy 3.5 OC running in the high 40's on prime 95.

BWAHAHAHA

In all seriousness, the best addition to me rig!


----------



## PCSarge

so i decided to take a picture of all the boxes from my pc parts! yay!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Hey folks,

I recieved my 2 x Scythe Ultra Kaze 2000s today and I plan to fit them tonight. (Im in the middle of a foldathon, so it may be the weekend)

I will let you know how it goes.

*looser101*, I know you said they where not anything special but I would like to see how they perform. Given the crappy fans Im using now, its gotta be an improvement.

The fall back plan is, if they dont impress me, to order in some CM R4s and use the Ultra Kazes as shrouds... nothing like recycling









Wish me luck










Okay, the scythe UK 2000s are in.

Push/shroud/rad/shroud/pull = exhaust

*Observations*
* Easy to install - need cable extension to reach CPU fan header on the mobo
* They are not as noisy as had imagined
* Pushes a LOT of air

*Facts:*
Room ambient: 26c
Case ambient: 39c
Idle: 33c - _previous 34c_
Load (Linpack): 48c - _previous 50c_
(see graphs)

*Option: *
I need to do some more fiddling with my air flow setup and get my case ambient down. My GTX 275 is not helping








Im liking the UKs at this point but I really havent push the rig that hard - not enough time ATM. Ill try some OCing and see how they perform.

Watch this space


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


so i decided to take a picture of all the boxes from my pc parts! yay!


Here was mine!


----------



## EssHoll

Sign me in


----------



## trivium nate

looks nice but I don't like how close the gpu is to the hdd's looks like you have to take the gpu out just to get to the hd


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EssHoll*


Sign me in










Nice setup bro!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trivium nate*


looks nice but I don't like how close the gpu is to the hdd's looks like you have to take the gpu out just to get to the hd


Folks, Welcome aboard and enjoy.

Can you pls complete your spec sheet located at..

Quote:



http://www.overclock.net/specs.php?do=addsystem


Thanks


----------



## EssHoll

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trivium nate*


looks nice but I don't like how close the gpu is to the hdd's looks like you have to take the gpu out just to get to the hd


It's antec 1200









The hdd bays is removable...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Folks, Welcome aboard and enjoy.

Can you pls complete your spec sheet located at..

Thanks










Yep


----------



## hheemmpp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EssHoll*


Sign me in











































Hey I was wondering how you mounted your h50 in the front of your case like that Im going to attempt the same thing in a antec 902 and it would be awesome if I could get some advice







You can private message me if you want I tried to but it says you dont accept them


----------



## CaptnBB

With the Antec 1200 the HDD's are mounted in bays with the intake fans. They pull out the front of the case.


----------



## EssHoll

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hheemmpp*


Hey I was wondering how you mounted your h50 in the front of your case like that Im going to attempt the same thing in a antec 902 and it would be awesome if I could get some advice







You can private message me if you want I tried to but it says you dont accept them










I remove the top hdd bay and then slid the H50 through. I'll take more pict for you


----------



## hheemmpp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EssHoll*


I remove the top hdd bay and then slid the H50 through. I'll take more pict for you











Haha ya but I mean like do you bolt it somehow or how do u attach it to the case


----------



## EssHoll

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hheemmpp*


Haha ya but I mean like do you bolt it somehow or how do u attach it to the case


No i don't. It's not even fit (2-4mm less space)

But then voila! i push it through and now it wont even move


----------



## Mariusz803

Here we go. One question though, what would you guys recommend as being the best low noise high static pressure/airflow fan for put on the H-50?

I'm sure this may have been asked but i'm asking anyways. I got those 2 NF-P12 on their and they are alright but still make some noise. I was recommended Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM.










Your thoughts?


----------



## Aqualoon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aqualoon* 

Idle: 48C
Load: 66C


Ok, installed Push/Pull tonight as an exhaust, the above was when I just had 1 fan - didn't have a 3 pin splitter so I had to order one, sleeve it, and install it







, new temps are...

Idle: 43C
Load: 56C

Going to toss some TX-3 on there this weekend as I've had some good results using that TIM. Would I see a benefit turning the fans around as intake with 2x140mm exhaust fans on the top of my case?


----------



## hheemmpp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aqualoon* 
Ok, installed Push/Pull tonight as an exhaust, the above was when I just had 1 fan - didn't have a 3 pin splitter so I had to order one, sleeve it, and install it







, new temps are...

Idle: 43C
Load: 56C

Going to toss some TX-3 on there this weekend as I've had some good results using that TIM. Would I see a benefit turning the fans around as intake with 2x140mm exhaust fans on the top of my case?

If you mean your using the fans to blow the air from the case into the rad out the case, thats not gunna be good. You need to suck cold air in threw the default exhaust spot.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mariusz803* 
Here we go. One question though, what would you guys recommend as being the best low noise high static pressure/airflow fan for put on the H-50?

I'm sure this may have been asked but i'm asking anyways. I got those 2 NF-P12 on their and they are alright but still make some noise. I was recommended Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM.

Your thoughts?

Yes it has... many times









Have a look here, near the bottom of the page, after the members list for some ideas...

Quote:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...es-owners.html

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hheemmpp*
If you mean your using the fans to blow the air from the case into the rad out the case, thats not gunna be good. You need to suck cold air in threw the default exhaust spot.

Hmmm... not necessarily. Most users here may dispute that with you. I for one, did not find any significant benefit from an intake configuration. In fact, temps where slightly higher.


----------



## Aqualoon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hheemmpp* 
If you mean your using the fans to blow the air from the case into the rad out the case, thats not gunna be good. You need to suck cold air in threw the default exhaust spot.

Gotcha, not bad temps then from having this flipped the opposite way then! I think/hope that my two 140mm top fans will be enough to not cause other heat issues...shouldn't as my video card has Vapor-X cooling and my HD's have a Lian Li HD rack that has a dedicated fan.


----------



## hheemmpp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aqualoon* 
Gotcha, not bad temps then from having this flipped the opposite way then! I think/hope that my two 140mm top fans will be enough to not cause other heat issues...shouldn't as my video card has Vapor-X cooling and my HD's have a Lian Li HD rack that has a dedicated fan.

Haha ya, when you flip them the right way you should be getting alot better temps. I have air and idle at 33ish and 34-38 when using but 54ish on 100% load. You'll probably see low 30s and no more then 48


----------



## Aqualoon

Just flipped em, at 41C and dropping for idle temps...went from 41 to 37 as I was typing that sentence.


----------



## hheemmpp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aqualoon*


Just flipped em, at 41C and dropping for idle temps...went from 41 to 37 as I was typing that sentence.


I would think your temps would be better then that. Is it nice an snug or tight on the cpu. Did you plug the pump into the CPU fan header next to the ram slots?


----------



## Aqualoon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hheemmpp*


Did you plug the pump into the CPU fan header next to the ram slots?


Yup

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hheemmpp*


Is it nice an snug or tight on the cpu.


Not sure how to answer that one, nice fit as any CPU cooler I've put on.

Doing Prime 95 right now, highest I've seen it hit is 45C, keeps going between 44 and 45C


----------



## hheemmpp

Well if you plugged the pump the part over the cpu into the cpu fan spot its not the best for performance and i guess its all right. That seems to be the way the h50 works might not idle very low but it keeps load temps very low.


----------



## Aqualoon

Well a 37C idle is a lot better then what I was getting previously, and I seem to be hitting 45C at load...which again is 20C lower then what I was getting. Good improvement for $70


----------



## Rains

@ Sethy: Iâ€™m going to try some shrouds when my system gets back online, seems like a great idea!
@ PCSarge: I have a room full of computer boxes. I should probably get rid of everything pre-s939. Those boxes for my old socket 7 system? I really donâ€™t need those anymore








@iGuitarGuy: I see your name is accurate







I miss my guitars â€¦
@EssHoll: Nice setup! Love the 1200, beautiful case









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mariusz803*


Here we go. One question though, what would you guys recommend as being the best low noise high static pressure/airflow fan for put on the H-50?


Iâ€™m interested in this too! The H50 could make a great quiet cooler with the right fans!


----------



## dude120

I was wondering...I was at this hardware store the other day, and they sell some computer things like fans and cords and such. I happened to come across a 120mm fan which was powered by AC, meaning an extra cord (plugging into the wall, not running off of the 12v DC that the PSU provides). Anyways it was hellishly expensive, something on the order of 50 dollars, but it turned extremely fast (well over 3000 RPM). Would it be at all beneficial to buy it or would it be a total waste of money. Im just interested to see how much air it could pull through give how fast/efficient it was.








Otherwise, im planning on doing the tubing mod for the H50 soon, any tips?


----------



## canadianpanda

I am ordering my H50 tomorrow but I am wondering how you go about taking off thermal paste as I am replacing my stock cooler.

Can't wait to get my H50!


----------



## Aqualoon

Q-Tip + Cotton Ball w/Rubbing Alcohol


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *canadianpanda*


I am ordering my H50 tomorrow but I am wondering how you go about taking off thermal paste as I am replacing my stock cooler.

Can't wait to get my H50!










Go to local grocery store. Buy Isopropyl Alcohol. Get a coffee filter, dip lightly in alcohol, and wipe off the the old thermal paste. Repeat 2 or 3 times, and install your h50. The thermal paste on there is already very high quality stuff, so no need to put a different one on, unless you have Mx-3 or Indigo Extreme.


----------



## Rains

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dude120* 
I was wondering...I was at this hardware store the other day, and they sell some computer things like fans and cords and such. I happened to come across a 120mm fan which was powered by AC, meaning an extra cord (plugging into the wall, not running off of the 12v DC that the PSU provides). Anyways it was hellishly expensive, something on the order of 50 dollars, but it turned extremely fast (well over 3000 RPM). Would it be at all beneficial to buy it or would it be a total waste of money. Im just interested to see how much air it could pull through give how fast/efficient it was.








Otherwise, im planning on doing the tubing mod for the H50 soon, any tips?

what was the rated CFM?


----------



## mike44njdevils

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rains*


what was the rated dB level?


Fixed it for ya


----------



## Mariusz803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Yes it has... many times









Have a look here, near the bottom of the page, after the members list for some ideas...

Hmmm... not necessarily. Most users here may dispute that with you. I for one, did not find any significant benefit from an intake configuration. In fact, temps where slightly higher.


Yes i had a look there. Unfortunately there was no temperature comparison done. Thanks though, i think the Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM is the primary choice for noise vs. air flow on rads. I'll keep digging.

Thanks.


----------



## hheemmpp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aqualoon*


Yup

Not sure how to answer that one, nice fit as any CPU cooler I've put on.

Doing Prime 95 right now, highest I've seen it hit is 45C, keeps going between 44 and 45C


You should plug your pump into a fan header that doesnt throttle the temps because you want the pump to run at full speed 24/7 so its always pumping that water threw the rad.


----------



## Klemy

Okay, finally a couple pics available...thinking of going CrossfireX on the 5770 new week.


----------



## _REAPER_

Here are some pics of my PC with the H50. I just replaced my H50 with a custom water block today. The H50 is not designed for overclocking past 4ghz that is the reason for the upgrade.


----------



## CaptnBB

Well after a long day yesterday of getting everything just right, it's done. Here's lots of pics and info for you! Enjoy.

First off I had to lower my computer as it would be too tall to fit under my desk. On the roller base that I cant just give up on, this thing weighs to mush just to drag on the carpet.

1. This is what I had started with. I looked everywhere for rollers that were half as tall to no avail. I went for Magic Sliders instead as I needed another 1" for adequate clearance.
Attachment 143501

2. Stick the Adhesive tape to the Magic Sliders.
Attachment 143502

3. I removed the casters and stuck on the sliders.
Attachment 143503

4. All the sliders stuck on. They are in a position where when I remove them there will be no tape covering the caster screw holes.
Attachment 143504

5. Completed. It surprisingly slides almost as easy with weight on it as the casters.
Attachment 143505


----------



## CaptnBB

On to finishing the second part I posted pics a few days ago of modding the front fill plate to accept the temperature monitor. Now it was time to finish it and take the temperature monitor and hook it up to the Bitspower water temperature sensor. I thought it would be kinda cool to see the reservoir water temperature. On to the pictures!

Here's a Link to the rest of this part of the mod.

1. With everything all spread over the table It was time to hook it up. Cut the wires and....
Attachment 143506

2. Test to see if it still works. I had know Idea if this would actually work or not. I figured it would, so I took the chance. Shrink wrapped it and good to go.
Attachment 143507

3. It did work.
Attachment 143508

4. Installed and good to go. I'm very happy with the turn out!







The pictures do not do it justice at all.
Attachment 143509


----------



## CaptnBB

With those smaller projects out of the way it was time to move onto the rad.

1. First I had to remove the original setup I had installed.
Attachment 143510

2. I took the MCR320, mounted my Koolance 2200rpm fans. A side note here; I was looking for a few fans for shrouds. Ended up at my frequently visited local computer store and pillaged a dead Apeva PSU. I cut the wiring for the sleeving which I used to sleeve the fan wires. Took off the black fan grill as seen in the picture. and removed and modded the ugly light blue fan. I was not able to use the shrouds yet as I could not find any proper screws, yet.
Attachment 143511

3. Mount up the rad and cut the tubing to the right length. I left mine a tad on the long side so it's easier to clean the front intake fan screen as the reservoir is mounted to the front bay. I did this in a previous mod.
Attachment 143512

4. Filled and leak tested for a few hrs just to be sure. It leak tested for the length of the Womens Gold Medal hockey game plus a bit longer. We won Gold!
Attachment 143513

5. All hooked up and finishing the wiring here.
Attachment 143514


----------



## CaptnBB

Time to put everything together and see what the outcome looks like.

1. Rad mounted, water in, AS5 installed (I'm using AS5 until my tube is gone then going to another brand.), on the "floor board", all ready to go.
Attachment 143517

2. As you can see there's not much room between he rad and the bottom of my desk. I could not put the rad lower on my case as the Hairdryer-like graphics card would not have a good impact on the rad and temperatures.
Attachment 143518

3. From the front.
Attachment 143519

4. Side off all hooked up and running.
Attachment 143520

5. Through the Side window now that it's installed.
Attachment 143521


----------



## CaptnBB

Now that it's all finished and the results are coming in it's time for a few more finished pics. I will be adding the results to this post just to keep things together along with a parts list. Look for more information in a few hours.









1. Side off flash on.
Attachment 143527

2. Side off.
Attachment 143528

3. Side on pic of the res.
Attachment 143529

4. How it sits under my desk. This is a bit better pic of the water temperature gauge.
Attachment 143530

5. All done, and under my desk for good.
Attachment 143531

I couldn't be happier with the results so far.























*Update: 2/28/2010*
I would have posted this a bit earlier but I was watching the men's Gold Hockey game, We won Gold again!!

Idle and load temperatures are the average of the cores after no noticeable increase while running Prime95. I used CoreTemp to monitor the temperatures.

Old Temperatures: with the reservoir and fans push pull.
Idle - 33C
Load - 51C
Ambient - 18C

New Temperatures: with the triple radiator and fans only in push no shroud installed yet.
Idle - 29C
Load - 41C
Ambient - 19C

In comparison to the other mods that have been done with a dual radiator these results are only marginally better. What this means to me is that I have reached the limits of the H50's pump flow capacity and the effectiveness of the internal waterblock. I don't think the pump and the waterblock can remove heat fast enough now. The pump is still working fine as of now.

As for why I attempted this. I have used the H50 as a stepping stone to a full Custom WC loop. The day is coming where I will no longer use any H50 parts, but hopefully that day is a ways off. I have the results that I wanted, have learned the limits of the H50, and had lots of fun with the modifications.''

*My Parts List:*
Corsair H50
Swiftech MCR320 Radiator
EK Multioption Res 150 v2
Swiftech MCB 120 Radbox v2
4x 1/4" Bitspower compression fittings
2x Bitspower L Rotary Fittings
1/4" Id Tubing
3x Antec Tri-Cool Blue fans
Petras Tech PT Nuke (Concentrated)
Distilled Water

*Update: 3/21/2010*
So far the pump is still running. My temps are slowly going up but that's due to the ambient temp going up here outside. No problems or issues.

*Update: 6/04/2010*
It's been a while since I have done an update. The good news is that even with my mod, the pump is still running fine with no issues. That is great info for anyone looking into modding. I have also updated my fans to Antec Tri-cools solely for their adjust-ability.

*Update: 12/28/2010*
Running Fine. No problems.

*** If you have any questions feel free to PM me. ***


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *_REAPER_* 
Here are some pics of my PC with the H50. I just replaced my H50 with a custom water block today. The H50 is not designed for overclocking past 4ghz that is the reason for the upgrade.

Me are heading the same way, we have seen what summer does to the i7


----------



## mattlef

@CaptnBB

+Rep Great mod.... one question though, how is the pump doing? a tripple rad is quite a bit of distance to push and pull... have you overvolted the pump or?


----------



## CaptnBB

I will need a bit more time to tell how the pump is doing. I will be keeping the Results post up to date. The pump is running stock.


----------



## pcnuttie

That's a great mod but i still don't know why you use the H50 has a cpu water block. Swiftech is better and i'm just puzzled why you decided to mod this. But impressive!


----------



## Gib007

I'd like to join this owner's club:


















That's my Corsair H50-1, mounted with IC Diamond 7 Carat thermal compound on the CPU. The radiator is mounted at the top with two A.C. Ryan Blackfire4 120mm fans (77.7 CFM each) as a push-pull configuration, exhausting out the top. Works great!!


----------



## Hadenman

I have installed my H50 push/pull setup in an exhaust orientation on the rear 120mm location of my p183 case. I am thinking I will move it to the top 120mm location. The reasons why I would like to put it there are:
Should give more room to potentially put a shroud between my push fan & rad.
Moves the rad/fan block away from sitting right on top of the passive NB cooler.
Should there be any performance difference between mounting it to the rear versus top location?

Cheers!


----------



## pravius

I was wondering if anyone knew where I could pick up some of the screws that comes with this bad boy? I am missing a few and had to do a ghetto fabulous electrical taping job to get the fan that pushes to fit snug on the RAD. I emailed Corsair to see if they would just sell me some screws but have not heard anything... any ideas?


----------



## Iroh

First page of this thread, _Useful Links,_ Ping's H50 Accessories lists the screw size.

I am loving this cooler. It was freezing in here this morning, and with ambient at 62F (17C) the high temp I got folding at 3.6GHz was 36C so I pushed it to 3.8 to get the temp to 40C. Took only a little while to get the room to a comfy temp!

I was wondering how long people have used these and how the copper block + alum rad have held up together.


----------



## Hadenman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pravius* 
I was wondering if anyone knew where I could pick up some of the screws that comes with this bad boy? I am missing a few and had to do a ghetto fabulous electrical taping job to get the fan that pushes to fit snug on the RAD. I emailed Corsair to see if they would just sell me some screws but have not heard anything... any ideas?

This is the exact type of screw you need. Hopefully, a hardware or hobby store near where you live has some. If not, it looks like you can order them at the above link, and at here and here.


----------



## NitrousX

I'd like to join this owner's club:


----------



## alayoubi

sexybastard ,

I know it comes late but ,, Nice Job regarding the dual rad & the final results so good







...

Did u try the blend test in Prime95 with the new rad ?
what the TIM are u using now ?


----------



## Gib007

I'm getting better temperatures exhausting out the top than at the rear. However, I can't really say it's due to the change in position as a lot changed between me having it exhausting out the rear and now out the top. Specifically, I changed my case from an Asus Vento TA-M11 to a Cooler Master HAF 932, and I added a stupid amount of high-CFM fans all over the place. The air flow through this build is tremendous so I'd accredit my temperatures more to that than to the top positioning of the radiator.

My idle temperature is 30Â°C and my load is about 46Â°C, and this is with 1.5125V going through my CPU for a 3.9GHz overclock!!

As for the screws, you need "1.1/4 x 6" screws. I ordered a pack of 10 of them from Ebay for just Â£1.65 including P&P. Currently I have my second 120mm fan stuck to the radiator with super glue, hahaha - works great!


----------



## Rains

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hadenman*


I have installed my H50 push/pull setup in an exhaust orientation on the rear 120mm location of my p183 case. I am thinking I will move it to the top 120mm location. The reasons why I would like to put it there are:
Should give more room to potentially put a shroud between my push fan & rad.
Moves the rad/fan block away from sitting right on top of the passive NB cooler.
Should there be any performance difference between mounting it to the rear versus top location?

Cheers!


I thought about this too, but there are a few issues. Mind you, I have a P182, so my issues may not necessarily apply to your case.

- the top fan mount location has 2 clips and 2 screw locations. I don't really want to drill into my unmolested case; issue is radiator can only get 2 mounts with stock screws, and they are on the same side of the rad.

- simply not enough space. My 8 pin power for the mobo is right under top fan. I might be able to fit a single fan + rad, but no push pull. Even if I reroute the 8 pin, the rad would be right up against mobo/ nb+ mosfet heatsink. No good


----------



## xMEATWADx95x

i think i have a problem with my h50...wen i OC'd my i7-860 with the OC genie on my mobo to 3.5 ghz and ran prime 95 it instantly bsod....my temps were around 65C~70C Load....is that normal for a h50 cuz if yes then i might try bios overclocking it.....just thought this was best place to ask


----------



## djjoonie

Here is my H50!


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xMEATWADx95x*


i think i have a problem with my h50...wen i OC'd my i7-860 with the OC genie on my mobo to 3.5 ghz and ran prime 95 it instantly bsod....my temps were around 65C~70C Load....is that normal for a h50 cuz if yes then i might try bios overclocking it.....just thought this was best place to ask


You will be fine as long as it stays under 85C


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


_*Front page wont be updated til Monday as I'm at home working on Paroxysm, posting from my phone.*_


----------



## PCSarge

i did the same thing as you but did it first





















my idle temp is at 23C... yes 23C.... i decided to turn my A/c on mid winter to test how low it would drop temp wise at idle, 23C is lowest so far... still dropping.. i may end up below 20 lol. w/ no A/c on it sits at 41 its 2 feet to the right of a heating vent, i dont blame it for not getting colder. besides i'm oc'd to 4GHZ, my E7400's stock settings is 2.8ghz, so heat generation is basically double


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hheemmpp* 
If you mean your using the fans to blow the air from the case into the rad out the case, thats not gunna be good. You need to suck cold air in threw the default exhaust spot.

actually, you can cheat like i did, mine is rear exhaust push/pull in an HAF 932 , i have 2 top exhaust fans, and 4 intake fans on the side panel... every fan in my case is a coolermaster R4, besides the front 230mm, so what happens is, side intakes blow cold air in, hot goes out the top, and the rad gets cold air, so no lose sitation, depends on your case though


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rains*


what was the rated CFM?


i think it was 55 cfm, is that good?


----------



## newpc

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Klemy*


Okay, finally a couple pics available...thinking of going CrossfireX on the 5770 new week.




















using the exact same fans as you in push/pull too







, but mines in the front for the intake instead of from the inside, i got 3 degrees lower from intake right in the front.


----------



## McLaren_F1

Any recommendations for setup on a corsair 800D? i have 3 top exhaust fans, should i do intake or exhaust on the H50?


----------



## Rayzer76

with three on the top, i'd set it as an intake but try both ways to determine best for your situation.


----------



## Willhemmens

Sadly, all of my new WC'ing kit arrived and made me pull out the modded H50.

Before (H50)









After(custom/read sig rig)









Same test for the same amount of time.

Edit: still quite alot of air coming out of the systrm.


----------



## Rains

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dude120* 
i think it was 55 cfm, is that good?

Not for $50, and having to use an external wall plug. If you want high airflow, look at something like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835705004.

114CFM>55CFM
$16.99>$~50.00
Fan Header>Wall Socket.
Spins at 2700RPM, the one you mentioned was ~3000RPM? Anyways, at those speeds either fan will sound like a leaf blower, so moot point









Hope this helps!


----------



## twistid

Well, I tried to re-seat my H50 with NT-H1 and it still is pretty high, idling @ 40 with CnQ and prime95 took it up to 59* before I turned it off within a few minutes









I cleaned both the block + cpu with rubbing alcohol, then I put a rice size dab of Nt-H1 and used my ID card to spread it out ... You think I should try re-seating it with just a dab in the center and not spreading it out?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *twistid*


Well, I tried to re-seat my H50 with NT-H1 and it still is pretty high, idling @ 40 with CnQ and prime95 took it up to 59* before I turned it off within a few minutes









I cleaned both the block + cpu with rubbing alcohol, then I put a rice size dab of Nt-H1 and used my ID card to spread it out ... You think I should try re-seating it with just a dab in the center and not spreading it out?


If you can, take the H50 off and take a photo of the cpu and h50 so we can see if its a contact problem. When your priming, do you notice the radiator getting hot? What speed is the pump going at? What speed is the fan/fans going at?


----------



## twistid

Well the bottom of the H50 is pretty scratched up, i was very surprised actually... What do you mean "priming" ? I have the pump connected to my fan controller NZXT Sentry 2 and its getting full volts ... the Fan's are also running at max volt through the fan controller.

I have noticed when its running pretty hot around 55* or so the air coming out of the back is pretty hot... (I have a push/pull exhaust setup)


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *twistid*


Well the bottom of the H50 is pretty scratched up, i was very surprised actually... What do you mean "priming" ? I have the pump connected to my fan controller NZXT Sentry 2 and its getting full volts ... the Fan's are also running at max volt through the fan controller.

I have noticed when its running pretty hot around 55* or so the air coming out of the back is pretty hot... (I have a push/pull exhaust setup)


Try plugging into your motherboard.


----------



## twistid

I plugged the pump into the mobo, same results.

I just don't know why its running so hot... these are the stock AMD cooler temps! Stock clocks, good airflow...

I've screwd down the mounting circle pretty tight, maybe I should try to go tighter? I don't want to break anything. I'm using stock AMD backplate.


----------



## adrians2

'priming' as in while prime95 is running....


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *twistid*


I plugged the pump into the mobo, same results.

I just don't know why its running so hot... these are the stock AMD cooler temps! Stock clocks, good airflow...

I've screwd down the mounting circle pretty tight, maybe I should try to go tighter? I don't want to break anything. I'm using stock AMD backplate.


What about intake vs exhaust? You said there was scratches have you contacted Corsair on maybe sending you a new one. I don't know if there is a Corsair AMD backplate, but if there is try using that, it might make the difference. I went as tight as it could go for my H50, and it didn't hurt a thing. If you can go tighter do it, If you're damaging your hardware you can usually hear the breaking and cracking. Have you tried a shroud or adding more fresh air intake? Check out the *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink* for more ideas.


----------



## Purgatory

Hey guys, i found this thread while searching for H50 on google and i must say i really liked it here so here is the first post here









And this is my Corsair H50 Hydro with 2x NOCTUA NF-P12 push-pull setup...
As in my case i'm really happy with the results...


















Btw here is the specs of my pc:

i7 [email protected] with HT on
Asus P7P55D Pro
4x2GB Patriot 1600mhz 1.65V DDR3
Asus EAH5870
3x1GB Western Digital Caviar Black
1x1GB Seagate 7200.12
Creative X-Fi Titanium
Corsair 850W PSU
Cooler Master Cosmos 1000
Samsung T260
Logitech Z-5500
Razer Mamba
Razer eXactmat
Logitech G15
Samsung DVD-RW
+...etc

Soon to upgrade/change some of my fans with better ones for better results









And again good to be here and really happy to have a Corsair H50 that fixed all my problems after Zalman 9900A


----------



## twistid

I have a question about the fan shroud, what exactly does it do? Does it fit over the fan like a condom and direct airflow? Why would a fan need more direct airflow if it's already pointing in one direction and blowing air?

I could understand if it was a funnel type device but it looks like it doesn't do anything? Do you have any pictures of your fan installed in one or something?


----------



## WarlordOne

OK, my Asetek LCLC came in yesterday and I've been have a bit of fun with it.

4.2GHz (21x200) @ 1.277v (max) set to dynamic voltage
22 multiplier enabled for max single core speed of 4.4GHz
Turbo on, HT on
Ambient: 21.5 Â°C
Fans: Arctic Cooling 12025PWM push/pull with spacer @1500rpm
TIM: IC7
Intel Burn Test, 8 threads, Standard setting, x64, 5 runs

Cogage True Spirit with bolt through kit:
Idle: 35,30,35,31 (lowest recorded temps with fans on high, 1500rpm)
Load: 69,63,64,62 (max temp IBT)

Asetek LCLC 120mm with stock copper radiator, front intake configuration
Idle: 34,27,33,29
Load: 72,61,62,54

Things to note: I had to up the volts on the Asetek because it crashed under IBT's 'very high" setting even though the Cogage True Spirit was able to pass. The temps shown for the LCLC are with 1.32v, making the temp that much more impressive. I need to figure out why Core 0 is running so hot with the LCLC.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Purgatory* 
Hey guys, i found this thread while searching for H50 on google and i must say i really liked it here so here is the first post here









And this is my Corsair H50 Hydro with 2x NOCTUA NF-P12 push-pull setup...
As in my case i'm really happy with the results...










And again good to be here and really happy to have a Corsair H50 that fixed all my problems after Zalman 9900A









Looks good! Did you have a read through this long thread? There are some pretty good ideas and lots of info. Welcome to OCN!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *twistid* 
I have a question about the fan shroud, what exactly does it do? Does it fit over the fan like a condom and direct airflow? Why would a fan need more direct airflow if it's already pointing in one direction and blowing air?

I could understand if it was a funnel type device but it looks like it doesn't do anything? Do you have any pictures of your fan installed in one or something?

When most people say shroud they actually mean spacer. The spacer goes between the push fan and the radiator (or heatsink) to give space. This allows air to flow onto the center portion of the radiator (or heatsink) which is normally a "dead spot" for airflow because it is blocked by the fan's central hub, when a fan is directly attached to it.

Now a shroud as it sounds goes around a heatsink or on a radiator seals around the edges of it and prevents air from flowing anywhere but through it's cooling fins.

You can find one or the other or a combination of both. I find that when most people say shroud they are referring to the spacer shrouds.


----------



## Purgatory

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WarlordOne* 
Looks good! Did you have a read through this long thread? There are some pretty good ideas and lots of info. Welcome to OCN!

Thank you!









As you can understand 400+ pages are hard to read








But i read every link on OP... But i'll continue to read ofc...


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *twistid* 
I plugged the pump into the mobo, same results.

I just don't know why its running so hot... these are the stock AMD cooler temps! Stock clocks, good airflow...

I've screwd down the mounting circle pretty tight, maybe I should try to go tighter? I don't want to break anything. I'm using stock AMD backplate.

As I'm sure you know...something is seriously wrong.







For comparison (if no one has given you comparative figures yet) my 965 C3 at 3.8 ghz (19 X multi) with NB at 2.6 ghz using 1.375 volts idles at 27-28 C. Max temp under prime 95 after 3 hours (blended test) is 44 C.
I've only heard of temps like yours when the case had little to no airflow. Have you tried running it without the side cover just for comparison? Is the pump at approx 1400 rpm? Are all the hold down tabs seated correctly? If you're still having problems then I'd say your unit is defective and you should return it.


----------



## Mr.Mike

Got my H50 yesterday! Unfortunately we had a huge storm and the power was out till 6am this morning. Waiting on my spacer too. I'm going to do a push/pull set up, mounting the radiator in the front of case as an intake. I'm going to run 2 140s up top and a 120 in the back exhausting. Trying to avoid fans in the side of the case, but we'll see how that ends up.

Really looking forward see this thing in action! Wishing now I had a clear case side too, it looks pretty sweet in there.... maybe there is trip to the hardware store in order for square of lexan ha ha!!


----------



## Digikid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Purgatory* 
Hey guys, i found this thread while searching for H50 on google and i must say i really liked it here so here is the first post here









And this is my Corsair H50 Hydro with 2x NOCTUA NF-P12 push-pull setup...
As in my case i'm really happy with the results...


















Btw here is the specs of my pc:

i7 [email protected] with HT on
Asus P7P55D Pro
4x2GB Patriot 1600mhz 1.65V DDR3
Asus EAH5870
3x1GB Western Digital Caviar Black
1x1GB Seagate 7200.12
Creative X-Fi Titanium
Corsair 850W PSU
Cooler Master Cosmos 1000
Samsung T260
Logitech Z-5500
Razer Mamba
Razer eXactmat
Logitech G15
Samsung DVD-RW
+...etc

Soon to upgrade/change some of my fans with better ones for better results









And again good to be here and really happy to have a Corsair H50 that fixed all my problems after Zalman 9900A










What are your temps? I love the Noctua Fans.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Digikid* 
What are your temps? I love the Noctua Fans.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *WarlordOne* 
OK, my Asetek LCLC came in yesterday and I've been have a bit of fun with it.

4.2GHz (21x200) @ 1.277v (max) set to dynamic voltage
22 multiplier enabled for max single core speed of 4.4GHz
Turbo on, HT on
Ambient: 21.5 Â°C
Fans: Arctic Cooling 12025PWM push/pull with spacer @1500rpm
TIM: IC7
Intel Burn Test, 8 threads, Standard setting, x64, 5 runs

Cogage True Spirit with bolt through kit:
Idle: 35,30,35,31 (lowest recorded temps with fans on high, 1500rpm)
Load: 69,63,64,62 (max temp IBT)

Asetek LCLC 120mm with stock copper radiator, front intake configuration
Idle: 34,27,33,29
Load: 72,61,62,54

Things to note: I had to up the volts on the Asetek because it crashed under IBT's 'very high" setting even though the Cogage True Spirit was able to pass. The temps shown for the LCLC are with 1.32v, making the temp that much more impressive. I need to figure out why Core 0 is running so hot with the LCLC.

Looks good! Did you have a read through this long thread? There are some pretty good ideas and lots of info. Welcome to OCN!

When most people say shroud they actually mean spacer. The spacer goes between the push fan and the radiator (or heatsink) to give space. This allows air to flow onto the center portion of the radiator (or heatsink) which is normally a "dead spot" for airflow because it is blocked by the fan's central hub, when a fan is directly attached to it.

Now a shroud as it sounds goes around a heatsink or on a radiator seals around the edges of it and prevents air from flowing anywhere but through it's cooling fins.

You can find one or the other or a combination of both. I find that when most people say shroud they are referring to the spacer shrouds.


Quit posting those images when you quote someone!


----------



## ArcticZero

Quick question, as I'm currently debating on getting either a Ven-X, or the H50 for my new i7 build. Am I right in assuming the H50, being a liquid-based solution, would perform better in a high-ambient temp situation, than traditional tower coolers would?

Tropical climate and all...and my lapped TRUE Black isn't really performing as good as it should if I lived in a colder area.


----------



## Purgatory

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Digikid* 
What are your temps? I love the Noctua Fans.

Well to start with i have a bad cpu... I tried like 5-6 different types of TIM applications with ocz freeze and zalman 9900A's in the box TIM with Zalman 9900A HSF, and even at 3.8Ghz my temps would go to 99C(then throttle ofc)... After a search i found that some of the 1156 i7's actually work seriously hot(when oc'd ofc)... But remember prime95 situation is highly unlikely to happen... Even with 9900A, after a long time(like 3-4 hours) of heavy gaming, my max temp was 60-62C... But with prime95 it goes to throttle under 15min...

So after this input and after H50 with 2 noctua fans things got SERIOUSLY better... With higher voltage(1.352V) and at 4.01Ghz(22x182 if i remember correctly), with prime95 after 20minutes it was 70C at 4 cores... I kow its still hot BUT its safe and till 90-95C there is no need to worry and don't forget that i have a Cosmos 1000 which has a seriously poor air flow... No matter who says what don't forget that these CPU's work with 4 cored with HT...

So i think i can go up to 4.4ghz safely i guess, i'll give it a try soon...

But defo a recommendation from me for H50 + 2x Noctua fans as for push-pull setup...

PS: Ow btw my idle temp at 3.8Ghz with 9900A was like 40-42, now it is 29-30...


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Purgatory* 
Well to start with i have a bad cpu... I tried like 5-6 different types of TIM applications with ocz freeze and zalman 9900A's in the box TIM with Zalman 9900A HSF, and even at 3.8Ghz my temps would go to 99C(then throttle ofc)... After a search i found that some of the 1156 i7's actually work seriously hot(when oc'd ofc)... But remember prime95 situation is highly unlikely to happen... Even with 9900A, after a long time(like 3-4 hours) of heavy gaming, my max temp was 60-62C... But with prime95 it goes to throttle under 15min...

So after this input and after H50 with 2 noctua fans things got SERIOUSLY better... With higher voltage(1.352V) and at 4.01Ghz(22x182 if i remember correctly), with prime95 after 20minutes it was 70C at 4 cores... I kow its still hot BUT its safe and till 90-95C there is no need to worry and don't forget that i have a Cosmos 1000 which has a seriously poor air flow... No matter who says what don't forget that these CPU's work with 4 cored with HT...

So i think i can go up to 4.4ghz safely i guess, i'll give it a try soon...

But defo a recommendation from me for H50 + 2x Noctua fans as for push-pull setup...

PS: Ow btw my idle temp at 3.8Ghz with 9900A was like 40-42, now it is 29-30...

lucky... at 4 ghz I am at 83 load linx stable 25 runs


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
lucky... at 4 ghz I am at 83 load linx stable 25 runs

Those temps seem a pretty high? and i thought mine was bad 4.1GHz 85c on Load Linx Stable at 100 runs


----------



## Mr.Mike

All put together! Sorry about things being blurry, I had the wrong lens on the camera.


----------



## Purgatory

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
lucky... at 4 ghz I am at 83 load linx stable 25 runs

Well, it depends man... In CPU's if you buy a new tech one early on LUCK is a huge factor... I saw i7 860-870's with a lot higher specs with cooler temps and even on air...

But in the end i'm seriously happy with my H50... Now i can run Prime95 as long as i want instead of only for x<10 mins to see it throttles


----------



## ohzer0

I'm in on this club as well








installed mine last night still stress testing to see where the best location will be
new fans are definitely in the works as well


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1* 
Those temps seem a pretty high? and i thought mine was bad 4.1GHz 85c on Load Linx Stable at 100 runs

920s are cooler because there is more on the die of the 860 to heat it. how many gflops is yours Purgatory?


----------



## twistid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
As I'm sure you know...something is seriously wrong.







For comparison (if no one has given you comparative figures yet) my 965 C3 at 3.8 ghz (19 X multi) with NB at 2.6 ghz using 1.375 volts idles at 27-28 C. Max temp under prime 95 after 3 hours (blended test) is 44 C.
I've only heard of temps like yours when the case had little to no airflow. Have you tried running it without the side cover just for comparison? Is the pump at approx 1400 rpm? Are all the hold down tabs seated correctly? If you're still having problems then I'd say your unit is defective and you should return it.









Yes I have ran it without the cover... it makes no difference









Yes the tabs are lined up and clipped into the tabs on the pump unit. It is running at 1350 according to speedfan so yes I assume the pump is working properly









I have emailed corsair and explained everything... I will see what they say ... This sucks!


----------



## Purgatory

Quote:


Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1* 
Those temps seem a pretty high? and i thought mine was bad 4.1GHz 85c on Load Linx Stable at 100 runs

Well LGA1156 and LGA1366 so much different in means of temperature... 1156 is both new and defer very much in same products(so far as i've seen)...

Maybe it is to do with that 1156 has its memory controller integrated i don't know but what i know for sure is it works a little more hotter(except for the exceptions i saw)...

But the main point is that H50 can hold these beasts!

1156 i7 [email protected] @ 70-71C Max is really a good deal... That means i can go up to 4.2 or even 4.4 for 24/7(if the Max is 85-95C) who knows...


----------



## Purgatory

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
920s are cooler because there is more on the die of the 860 to heat it. how many gflops is yours Purgatory?

Honestly i don't know how to measure it







, how can i do it ?


----------



## sora1607

I just installed this beast!!... ish.... I feel like I've done something wrong. It's not keeping my CPU as cool as I hope it would have. I wonder if I seat it correctly. Anyways, when you mount the backplate on the back of the mobo, what are the two sticky cushion things for? I put them on but I didn't take off the top part because I was afraid it won't be good for my motherboard to have sticky things touching it on the back. The area of mounting has some spikeys and I was wondering if it'd be safe to take off the top layer of the sticky thing.








I hope I have this push/pull config set up correctly. Will post picture in a bit


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sora1607*


I just installed this beast!!... ish.... I feel like I've done something wrong. It's not keeping my CPU as cool as I hope it would have. I wonder if I seat it correctly. Anyways, when you mount the backplate on the back of the mobo, what are the two sticky cushion things for? I put them on but I didn't take off the top part because I was afraid it won't be good for my motherboard to have sticky things touching it on the back. The area of mounting has some spikeys and I was wondering if it'd be safe to take off the top layer of the sticky thing.








I hope I have this push/pull config set up correctly. Will post picture in a bit


There's nothing wrong with adhesive touching the back of the board.

Also, what are your temps?


----------



## Purgatory

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sora1607*


I just installed this beast!!... ish.... I feel like I've done something wrong. It's not keeping my CPU as cool as I hope it would have. I wonder if I seat it correctly. Anyways, when you mount the backplate on the back of the mobo, what are the two sticky cushion things for? I put them on but I didn't take off the top part because I was afraid it won't be good for my motherboard to have sticky things touching it on the back. The area of mounting has some spikeys and I was wondering if it'd be safe to take off the top layer of the sticky thing.








I hope I have this push/pull config set up correctly. Will post picture in a bit


Same here man, i just sticked it the backplate but didn't to mobo, it doesn't matter anyways, its there if you need to install on the case(cases with windows at the back of the cpu)... I wouldn't install those cushion thingies but i said maybe it'll be good for vibration or to squeeze the screws better or something but as i said there is nothing to do with those...


----------



## sora1607

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Purgatory*


Same here man, i just sticked it the backplate but didn't to mobo, it doesn't matter anyways, its there if you need to install on the case(cases with windows at the back of the cpu)... I wouldn't install those cushion thingies but i said maybe it'll be good for vibration or to squeeze the screws better or something but as i said there is nothing to do with those...



Haha cool. Yeah I figured there's nothing wrong with it touching the board but I was afraid there would be something wrong with it touching some of the spikey areas of the board because it's right on there. Anyways, I think it's just not a lucky 920 chip. It runs stable at 4.2 Ghz 1.35 vcore but temperature is like ~90 at full load. I dunno if this is a problem with my two fans I set up. I'll get a picture up soon and you guys can help me then


----------



## Mr.Mike

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sora1607*


I just installed this beast!!... ish.... I feel like I've done something wrong. It's not keeping my CPU as cool as I hope it would have. I wonder if I seat it correctly. Anyways, when you mount the backplate on the back of the mobo, what are the two sticky cushion things for? I put them on but I didn't take off the top part because I was afraid it won't be good for my motherboard to have sticky things touching it on the back. The area of mounting has some spikeys and I was wondering if it'd be safe to take off the top layer of the sticky thing.








I hope I have this push/pull config set up correctly. Will post picture in a bit


I didnt even use the sticky tape, I just held the bracket with one hand and got a screw started. my CPU is sitting at 27 - 30* with a couple things running, I'm not overclocked though. actually cores 0 and 2 are 30C, 2 and 3 are 27C.


----------



## sora1607

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mr.Mike*


I didnt even use the sticky tape, I just held the bracket with one hand and got a screw started. my CPU is sitting at 27 - 30* with a couple things running, I'm not overclocked though. actually cores 0 and 2 are 30C, 2 and 3 are 27C.


Okay I see. Yeah that's about where mine was when I first installed the H50. I'm just wondering if 90 degrees at 1.35 vcore is normal for most people here and if I can do anything to improve this and bring it down around 10 degrees


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Purgatory*


Honestly i don't know how to measure it







, how can i do it ?


http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=201670

Download LinX and put it for 4 runs max memory. That should give you a good idea since that is when the gflops changes the most (the 4th loop will probably be the most accurate). Also moniter the temps when you do it.

LinX is more stressing than prime95 so expect higher temps(true max temps).


----------



## Blinkwing

Seeing as Corsair are out of stock and my H50 is without AM3 brackets, I was wondering if any Intel CPU owners wouldn't mind giving/selling me their unused AM3 brackets?

I'm more than happy to pay for shipping, of course.


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sora1607*


Okay I see. Yeah that's about where mine was when I first installed the H50. I'm just wondering if 90 degrees at 1.35 vcore is normal for most people here and if I can do anything to improve this and bring it down around 10 degrees


That's too high even if you're using Linx or other linpack testing to load it. If it's prime95 it's way too high.

I'd try reseating the H50 first.


----------



## ohzer0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blinkwing*


Seeing as Corsair are out of stock and my H50 is without AM3 brackets, I was wondering if any Intel CPU owners wouldn't mind giving/selling me their unused AM3 brackets?

I'm more than happy to pay for shipping, of course.


I didnt get one either--but I am a Intel owner so it didnt phase me did you try contacting corsair? theyre pretty good with these kinds of things.


----------



## Typhoeus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blinkwing*


Seeing as Corsair are out of stock and my H50 is without AM3 brackets, I was wondering if any Intel CPU owners wouldn't mind giving/selling me their unused AM3 brackets?

I'm more than happy to pay for shipping, of course.


here is the AM3 bracket in stock at frozencpu:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...tl=g48c371s222


----------



## PCSarge

weee signature professionally fixed... i got bored and decided to code it better


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


weee signature professionally fixed... i got bored and decided to code it better


Looks a little like mine with categories.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


Looks a little like mine with categories.


yeah, when people get bored they get organized,. kinda scary that boredom triggers that though....i failed to mention i'm idling at 20C atm in a 23C ambient room lol will be alot colder in the summer


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


yeah, when people get bored they get organized,. kinda scary that boredom triggers that though....i failed to mention i'm idling at 20C atm in a 23C ambient room lol will be alot colder in the summer


That doesn't make any sense.









I mean... lower than ambient? Your ambient must be in case.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
That doesn't make any sense.









I mean... lower than ambient? Your ambient must be in case.

must i quote that my r4's are intaking cold air from a nearby concrete outer wall?
+ in a basement
not here to argue, but cold concrete make the air nearby pretty cold, and when the pc is sitting with the back of the case about an inch and a half from the wall, i can see why its lower, the ambient thermometer is on the other side of the room on the wall, i relocated my pc yesterday btw, i cant feel my feet, its friggin freezing down here xD


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *twistid* 
I have a question about the fan shroud, what exactly does it do? Does it fit over the fan like a condom and direct airflow? Why would a fan need more direct airflow if it's already pointing in one direction and blowing air?

I could understand if it was a funnel type device but it looks like it doesn't do anything? Do you have any pictures of your fan installed in one or something?

To eliminate dead air and increase CFM. Which translates to lower temperatures. We've seen test after test proving that the shroud works. It worked for me, and should for you to.










Exhaust (⇇Fan⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Fan)


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
must i quote that my r4's are intaking cold air from a nearby concrete outer wall?
+ in a basement

Ambient should be outside case xD


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Ambient should be outside case xD

my AMBIENT is from a thermometer/ humidity measurement device on the opposite wall of the room it currently reads 23.7C

P.S: can i smack you for not reading the post properly?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
To eliminate dead air and increase CFM. Which translates to lower temperatures. We've seen test after test proving that the shroud works. It worked for me, and should for you to.










Exhaust (⇇Fan⇇Shroud⇇H50⇇Fan)

wait a minute! pings bought 2 H50s! he has a corsair fan intake in the bottom of the case, and one under his CD drive


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
my AMBIENT is from a thermometer/ humidity measurement device on the opposite wall of the room it currently reads 23.7C

P.S: can i smack you for not reading the post properly?

Yeah, but I still don't see how it could be lower than ambient.

I think that there are other factors.


----------



## Hadenman

I posted earlier, but here are pictures of my recent build:



















My rig album: http://www.overclock.net/album.php?albumid=2373

Cheers!


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
wait a minute! pings bought 2 H50s! he has a corsair fan intake in the bottom of the case, and one under his CD drive









Or he quite liked the fans and bought another.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Or he quite liked the fans and bought another.

can you buy the fans seperate? lmao... mine became a shroud it stopped working shortly after installation


----------



## Purgatory

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=201670

Download LinX and put it for 4 runs max memory. That should give you a good idea since that is when the gflops changes the most (the 4th loop will probably be the most accurate). Also moniter the temps when you do it.

LinX is more stressing than prime95 so expect higher temps(true max temps).

Hey, it's me again









I did run LinX twice(with Max Ram avaible @ 64bit) but at both times it ended with an error but it gave error just 1 second before the finish, maybe it is a bug i don't know...

Here is the result, you tell me if it is good,bad or average







:










and this is idle:


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Purgatory* 
Hey, it's me again









I did run LinX twice(with Max Ram avaible @ 64bit) but at both times it ended with an error but it gave error just 1 second before the finish, maybe it is a bug i don't know...

Here is the result, you tell me if it is good,bad or average







:










and this is idle:










Okay, your temps are the same as mine then and it doesn't look quite stable with that error. O.O maybe it is only Prime stable.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blinkwing* 
Seeing as Corsair are out of stock and my H50 is without AM3 brackets, I was wondering if any Intel CPU owners wouldn't mind giving/selling me their unused AM3 brackets?

I'm more than happy to pay for shipping, of course.

Not sure if you would be interested, but, I'm planning on selling off one of my additional H50's here shortly, which would include all of the documentation, both Intel and AMD brackets and 2 of the Corsair Fans, instead of just the 1. Haven't decided on a price yet though. Suggestions are welcome.


----------



## Purgatory

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Okay, your temps are the same as mine then and it doesn't look quite stable with that error. O.O maybe it is only Prime stable.

actually i don't think so, voltage is high enough, rams are fine and the thing is it gave an error at the exact same point each time, just 1 sec to end and both runs ran with a different time frame, one is a little longer other one is a little shorter... i made a clean restart before one run though...

anyways, i'm happy with my system atm, how about gflops you mentioned before ?


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Purgatory* 
actually i don't think so, voltage is high enough, rams are fine and the thing is it gave an error at the exact same point each time, just 1 sec to end and both runs ran with a different time frame, one is a little longer other one is a little shorter... i made a clean restart before one run though...

anyways, i'm happy with my system atm, how about gflops you mentioned before ?

Yeah your gflops are about right. I ran 20 runs to be stable enough, but maybe I should just use prime.


----------



## Typhoeus

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Purgatory* 
actually i don't think so, voltage is high enough, rams are fine and the thing is it gave an error at the exact same point each time, just 1 sec to end and both runs ran with a different time frame, one is a little longer other one is a little shorter... i made a clean restart before one run though...

anyways, i'm happy with my system atm, how about gflops you mentioned before ?

it'll give you an error at the END of the test because it compares rounding of the equation, which only happens at the end of the calculation. because test 5's rounding differed from tests 1-4, your CPU /is/ unstable.


----------



## Purgatory

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Typhoeus* 
it'll give you an error at the END of the test because it compares rounding of the equation, which only happens at the end of the calculation. because test 5's rounding differed from tests 1-4, your CPU /is/ unstable.

Alright, that makes sense since the "times" menu is x5... Thanks for the clarification...









So, my system is stable


----------



## slekkas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


lucky... at 4 ghz I am at 83 load linx stable 25 runs


Whats your VTT?


----------



## Typhoeus

no, your system is unstable. that is why it gives you the error. the residual of #5 is different than #s 1-4 so your CPU is not stable.


----------



## Digikid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Quit posting those images when you quote someone!


No.









Now.....

How are these things for noise? I want as silent as possible.


----------



## Typhoeus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Digikid*


No.









Now.....

How are these things for noise? I want as silent as possible.


all depends on what fans you use.


----------



## PCSarge

yay! running a small FFt's at 4.5 ghz..... i'm stable at 4 ghz, if it fails i'm switching back current load temps sit at 53C , idle sits at 31


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


can you buy the fans seperate? lmao... mine became a shroud it stopped working shortly after installation


Im pretty sure he bought it from another user.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Digikid*


No.









Now.....

How are these things for noise? I want as silent as possible.


The pump is bassically silent although it depends on what you call silent.
Two Decent 800 RPM fans in push pull should be quite too.

I doubt you would hear anything if it was all in a closed case.


----------



## Mr.Mike

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


yay! running a small FFt's at 4.5 ghz..... i'm stable at 4 ghz, if it fails i'm switching back current load temps sit at 53C , idle sits at 31


Awesome! I'm sitting stable (for about an hour now) at 4.2, temps hit 61 - 66 about 45 minutes ago and havnt budged an inch! I'm glad I bought this thing!

Can some one add me to the owners list by chance? And whats the code for this sig?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mr.Mike*


Awesome! I'm sitting stable (for about an hour now) at 4.2, temps hit 61 - 66 about 45 minutes ago and havnt budged an inch! I'm glad I bought this thing!

Can some one add me to the owners list by chance? And whats the code for this sig?


Yeah, I think KillHouse won't be back for another couple days. He'll get ya added up soon though. The PHP Code for the sig is actually on the 1st post of this thread but at the very bottom. You'll have to scroll waaaaaaay down (so many members!) and it should be there for ya!


----------



## ADX

Hey...I'm getting the H50 with the Antec 902 case...so I was wondering how I should configure it to run in this case for the best airflow and also what fan I should use for a push/pull config.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ADX* 
Hey...I'm getting the H50 with the Antec 902 case...so I was wondering how I should configure it to run in this case for the best airflow and also what fan I should use for a push/pull config.

I'm not too sure about configuration for the 902, maybe someone else can help answer that one. As for the fans, check the very first post in this thread, there is a chart/list of a bunch of good fans there. Personally, I'd recommend the Gentle Typhoon 1850's (AP-15) fans. They are pure awesome and not loud at all.


----------



## sora1607

Should I mount one fan on the outside of my case and one on the inside or both of them on the inside ?


----------



## Garanthor

Well I had some spare time on my hands today (always a dangerous thing) and decided to finally mod the H50 with shrouds and mount it at the front of my HAF 922 pulling air in (vs exhausting air out the back). I put the Corsair fan as the exhaust on the back of my case. System seems a tiny bit quieter (...but it was quiet before) and I did lower my temps by 1-2 degrees at both idle and max load so pretty good I guess. My idle temps for my 965 C3 @1.375 are now 26-27 and at load about 43.


----------



## ADX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
I'm not too sure about configuration for the 902, maybe someone else can help answer that one. As for the fans, check the very first post in this thread, there is a chart/list of a bunch of good fans there. Personally, I'd recommend the Gentle Typhoon 1850's (AP-15) fans. They are pure awesome and not loud at all.

ok thanks


----------



## PC Gamer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Well I had some spare time on my hands today (always a dangerous thing) and decided to finally mod the H50 with shrouds and mount it at the front of my HAF 922 pulling air in (vs exhausting air out the back). I put the Corsair fan as the exhaust on the back of my case. System seems a tiny bit quieter (...but it was quiet before) and I did lower my temps by 1-2 degrees at both idle and max load so pretty good I guess. My idle temps for my 965 C3 @1.375 are now 26-27 and at load about 43.










Could you post some pics or a sort of guide how you intalled it in the front of the case? I have been wanting to put mine there but I'm unsure how to secure it.


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ADX*


Hey...I'm getting the H50 with the Antec 902 case...so I was wondering how I should configure it to run in this case for the best airflow and also what fan I should use for a push/pull config.


Push/Pull Exhaust on the back 120mm works great. 
The top fan is more than enough for exhaust imo.


----------



## Aawa

you can add me!


----------



## sora1607

Should I mount one of the two fans on the radiator outside of the case or should I keep them both inside?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sora1607* 
Should I mount one of the two fans on the radiator outside of the case or should I keep them both inside?

I would keep both fans mounted directly onto the radiator (on the inside) if possible.


----------



## ADX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84*


Push/Pull Exhaust on the back 120mm works great. 
The top fan is more than enough for exhaust imo.


So you have it configured for the two front 120mm fans as intake, top 200mm as exhaust, and the rear 120's and H50 as exhaust as well?


----------



## WarlordOne

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Quit posting those images when you quote someone!

Uh, okay... Although it makes more sense when I quote it.










When the heck did my mom register on OCN?


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


wait a minute! pings bought 2 H50s! he has a corsair fan intake in the bottom of the case, and one under his CD drive










Bottom intake fan is a 140mm


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Purgatory*


Alright, that makes sense since the "times" menu is x5... Thanks for the clarification...









So, my system is stable










4 Runs on LinX, doesnt mean the system is fail. Sometimes i get error around 14-15 runs.

My latest LinX run @ 4.1GHz

Config: Fan->Sound Damper->H50->Fan


----------



## Purgatory

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WarlordOne* 
Uh, okay... Although it makes more sense when I quote it.










When the heck did my mom register on OCN?









*Picture seems familiar







*

Quote:


Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1* 
4 Runs on LinX, doesnt mean the system is fail. Sometimes i get error around 14-15 runs.

My latest LinX run @ 4.1GHz

Config: Fan->Sound Damper->H50->Fan










*Yeah i guess'd so too, but i'm too cba to do few more runs on LinX since it takes 4-6mins on each cycle and tbh there is not even 1 application i use to stress the system as Prime95 let alone LinX...

But [email protected] at 70C with Prime95 damn more then enough for me and i'm pretty sure there is a lot more overclock room ahead so thank you very much Corsair H50







*


----------



## sora1607

I have a question. So I'm setting up Push/Pull config with 2 different fans. So should the weaker fan be pulling or pushing. I set it so that the Corsair stock fan, weaker, is pulling air from the radiator and pushes it out the back panel. My other fan, Silverstone FM121, is pushing air from behind the radiator toward the back panel. Is this config the best I can do? What else should I do to improve this. Also, what are some of the best 120mm fans out there that you guys recommend


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WarlordOne* 
Uh, okay... Although it makes more sense when I quote it.










When the heck did my mom register on OCN?










The picture posted once is enough, less to scroll down through.

You want high res images? You got it.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *sora1607* 
I have a question. So I'm setting up Push/Pull config with 2 different fans. So should the weaker fan be pulling or pushing. I set it so that the Corsair stock fan, weaker, is pulling air from the radiator and pushes it out the back panel. My other fan, Silverstone FM121, is pushing air from behind the radiator toward the back panel. Is this config the best I can do? What else should I do to improve this. Also, what are some of the best 120mm fans out there that you guys recommend

You want the weaker fan at the back, pulling. I've heard good things about CM R4's, San aces and Scythes. Theres lots of good fans around, i'm looking at some fractal designs.


----------



## Lord

hi,

i just bought a corsair h50.

i wanted to ask a few questions.

1) how can i know that my pump is running at full speed?

2) Do i have to always run my corsair fan at 100% speed?

3) How do i install a push n pull setup? I have a 120mm case fan from my sniper which i want to use. do i need long screws?

Thanks.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


....You want high res images? You got it.


> > > and by reading your system spec's, you are only using a 400W PSU...







*UnBeLeIveAbLe*, 
but showing 4 TRUE ! ! ! [_ Gorgious__FULL Blown_ *H2O* system for there, tho, 
Willhemmens . . .







]

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lord*


hi,

i just bought a corsair h50.

i wanted to ask a few questions.

1) how can i know that my pump is running at full speed?

2) Do i have to always run my corsair fan at 100% speed?

3) How do i install a push n pull setup? I have a 120mm case fan from my sniper which i want to use. do i need long screws?

Thanks.


1)If you plug the pump into a system fan header and see what its spinning at, it should be around 1400.

2) No you dont but for best temps its a good idea.

3) No if you use 2 screws to hold the fan on one side and then 2 screws to hold the other on.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


> > > and by reading your system spec's, you are only using a 400W PSU...







*UnBeLeIveAbLe*, 
but showing 4 TRUE ! ! ! [_ Gorgious_ *H2O* system for there, tho, Willhemmens . . .







]

mr-Charles .









.


Thanks, its taken a while. 400W is fine for what i do, you can easily run two 4770's in crossfire with a 400 and thats what i do.


----------



## sora1607

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


You want the weaker fan at the back, pulling. I've heard good things about CM R4's, San aces and Scythes. Theres lots of good fans around, i'm looking at some fractal designs.


As in the Corsair fan being on the side near the CPU blowing air into the radiator? Or blowing air toward the center of the case.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sora1607*


As in the Corsair fan being on the side near the CPU blowing air into the radiator? Or blowing air toward the center of the case.


You want it blowing air out of the case, so the air goes threw the silverstone fan though the rad then then corsair sucks it though the rad.


----------



## sora1607

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


You want it blowing air out of the case, so the air goes threw the silverstone fan though the rad then then corsair sucks it though the rad.


It sounds like the way I have it set up at the moment. It goes Corsair fan pushing air out the back panel, then radiator, then Silverstone fan pushing air into the radiator. Still looking for another fan to replace the Corsair stock fan but this setup is pretty sweet. Will post pic soon to join the club


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sora1607*


It sounds like the way I have it set up at the moment. It goes Corsair fan pushing air out the back panel, then radiator, then Silverstone fan pushing air into the radiator. Still looking for another fan to replace the Corsair stock fan but this setup is pretty sweet. Will post pic soon to join the club










Good stuff, looking forward to the photos.


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


wait a minute! pings bought 2 H50s! he has a corsair fan intake in the bottom of the case, and one under his CD drive










No they came with my case.


----------



## Hawk777th

Yay first post. I was looking at the H50 vs the noctua N14 to cool a Phenom X4 II 965, hoping to get into 4ghz range. After reading this thread looks like corsair really has somthing here. Is thier anyway to get better fans for it in push pull config off newegg? Case is an antec 1200. And am I still going to have to get the extra mountfor am3?

Thanks!


----------



## jam1e

not sure whats considered better for temps but i bought 2 noctua fans and had them on in push/pull since i got my h50 and the temps are fine and fans are quiet.
*these *incase ur interested.


----------



## leppie

Hey, I think we lost CaptBB...


----------



## stephenmarr

hey my pump has failed on the h50 temps rose to nearly 90degrees c








i reinstalled the standard cpu cooler that came with the i5 and back to normal.
contacted corsair and within 2 e-mails they issued me an RMA very happy with how quick they were.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
The picture posted once is enough, less to scroll down through.

You want high res images? You got it.

...

You want the weaker fan at the back, pulling. I've heard good things about CM R4's, San aces and Scythes. Theres lots of good fans around, i'm looking at some fractal designs.

What size tubing are you using? In the high res pics it looks bigger than I thought.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stephenmarr* 
hey my pump has failed on the h50 temps rose to nearly 90degrees c








i reinstalled the standard cpu cooler that came with the i5 and back to normal.
contacted corsair and within 2 e-mails they issued me an RMA very happy with how quick they were.

That sounds like the Corsair we all love. Corsair's very good with these things.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
What size tubing are you using? In the high res pics it looks bigger than I thought.

Its 1/2" tubing from Masterkleer, its Big. Might see about going bigger again or just getting better tubing.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PC Gamer* 
Could you post some pics or a sort of guide how you intalled it in the front of the case? I have been wanting to put mine there but I'm unsure how to secure it.

Sure....as soon as I get the camera off the wife. It was actually much easier than I thought it would be. I used two broken fans for the shrouds (cut out the fans). Going from front to back I have fan-shroud-rad-shroud-fan. The shrouds are held onto the rad via the normal screws and the fans are held to the shrouds with duct tape. I know that seems to be a bit of a ghetto mod but it actually works very well. I have duct tape around the whole thing and it seals the tunnel nicely. Holding the whole thing up, centered and to the back of the open 5 1/2 inch bays, I first drilled two small holes through the openings at the back of the drive bays and into each shroud. I then used brass wood screws to screw through the side openings and into the shrouds. Note that I only used two screws per shroud and only on the back side. The whole thing is on there very securely. The front fan is about 1 to 1.5 inches from the front grill. I can feel it sucking air in from the front grill so all is well. I'll try to get pics up later today.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
That sounds like the Corsair we all love. Corsair's very good with these things.

Its 1/2" tubing from Masterkleer, its Big. Might see about going bigger again or just getting better tubing.

How did you manage to put it on the H50's barbs?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
How did you manage to put it on the H50's barbs?

If you look a bit more closely, you will see that im not using a H50 anymore, i've gone full custom.


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


If you look a bit more closely, you will see that im not using a H50 anymore, i've gone full custom.


lol "look closely"

you gotta be blind not to see you've gone custom









awesome setup btw. i am missing water right with my noctua


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


lol "look closely"

you gotta be blind not to see you've gone custom









awesome setup btw. i am missing water right with my noctua










Honestly, I didn't even look. xD


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


lol "look closely"

you gotta be blind not to see you've gone custom









awesome setup btw. i am missing water right with my noctua










Yeah, its not that difficult i admit but the green/blue effect hasnt changed.

Thanks, hopefully you will get wet again at some point.


----------



## PC Gamer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
Sure....as soon as I get the camera off the wife. It was actually much easier than I thought it would be. I used two broken fans for the shrouds (cut out the fans). Going from front to back I have fan-shroud-rad-shroud-fan. The shrouds are held onto the rad via the normal screws and the fans are held to the shrouds with duct tape. I know that seems to be a bit of a ghetto mod but it actually works very well. I have duct tape around the whole thing and it seals the tunnel nicely. Holding the whole thing up, centered and to the back of the open 5 1/2 inch bays, I first drilled two small holes through the openings at the back of the drive bays and into each shroud. I then used brass wood screws to screw through the side openings and into the shrouds. Note that I only used two screws per shroud and only on the back side. The whole thing is on there very securely. The front fan is about 1 to 1.5 inches from the front grill. I can feel it sucking air in from the front grill so all is well. I'll try to get pics up later today.









Thank you very much! I'm looking forward to seeing the pics.


----------



## WarlordOne

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
The picture posted once is enough, less to scroll down through.

You want high res images? You got it.










You want the weaker fan at the back, pulling. I've heard good things about CM R4's, San aces and Scythes. Theres lots of good fans around, i'm looking at some fractal designs.

Two points.

There's nothing wrong with quoting a single pic, especially when you're responding about it. I'll never quote more than one picture in a post as I would consider that rude.

Feel free to tell people what to do just don't be surprised if they just ignore your advice.

Anyway, your set up is looking good. Did your H50 crap out or did you just decide that you needed more?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WarlordOne*


Two points.

There's nothing wrong with quoting a single pic, especially when you're responding about it. I'll never quote more than one picture in a post as I would consider that rude.

Feel free to tell people what to do just don't be surprised if they just ignore your advice.

Anyway, your set up is looking good. Did your H50 crap out or did you just decide that you needed more?


Ok.

Yeah the H50 is all good still and going to a new home. I just wanted something with abit more power. I run about 10-11'c cooler, need to get a decent mount though.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Ok.

Yeah the H50 is all good still and going to a new home. I just wanted something with abit more power. I run about 10-11'c cooler, need to get a decent mount though.


I would like your modded H50 if you are willing to ship it,


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


That's a great mod but i still don't know why you use the H50 has a cpu water block. Swiftech is better and i'm just puzzled why you decided to mod this. But impressive!


I have been following your input into this thread lately. With respect, you either need to get yourself a H50 and experience the adventure or phrase your posts to be a little less provocative.

In all honesty, you sometime border of trolling and I think you need to be aware of that.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


The picture posted once is enough, less to scroll down through.

You want high res images? You got it.










You want the weaker fan at the back, pulling. I've heard good things about CM R4's, San aces and Scythes. Theres lots of good fans around, i'm looking at some fractal designs.


super-dude! what happen with your MOD H50?

Anyway Congrats, you jumped from the MOD H50 to the real H20 Loop!









I like *BLING* XSPC DeltaV3 waterblock!

I am sorry if my post is alittle bit offtopic. I will let people stick this topic.


----------



## CaptnBB

I just updated my triple rad mod with more info and results.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8591711


----------



## Jocelyn84

I'm lovin my H50, but I'm about to buy some Yate Loon High speeds (don't care about the noise) and was wondering if I should buy the curved or flat blade model?


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CaptnBB*


I just updated my triple rad mod with more info and results.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8591711


 what size tubing and such did you use?


----------



## CaptnBB

1/4" all around.


----------



## TARRCO

Helloe









Im hopeing this is the right place to askk...

But im looking at getting the H50 ,and I was wondering what the pump was cabable off ? Like ....If I were to mod lets say a 240 rad and add a video card to the loop and maybey a rez ,will the pump wear it self down or will it even work ....?

Cheers

Luis : )


----------



## Volkswagen

Figured I would share some pics of my setup as well.


























Setup consists of dual Panaflo FBA12G12U1BX Fans and a 25mm Shroud on the pull fan in the back. With the fans at 7 V the cooling is awesome and the setup is very quiet- and I can turn it up to keep the temps under 60c load with my I7 920 @ 3.8 GHZ 1.2V.

Fans Pull < Shroud - RAD - < Fan Push


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CaptnBB*


I just updated my triple rad mod with more info and results.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8591711


Very awesome! +rep

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TARRCO*

Helloe Im hopeing this is the right place to askk...

But im looking at getting the H50 ,and I was wondering what the pump was cabable off ? Like ....If I were to mod lets say a 240 rad and add a video card to the loop and maybey a rez ,will the pump wear it self down or will it even work ....?


If I can translate this... The pump is capable but it may struggle with the addition of a GPU block. Then again, Im not sure anyone has tried it. There is plenty of mods with bigger rads and reservoirs.

As one Aussie to another... english is your friend. Please use it. Most people wont even bother reading this when it is written so... badly


----------



## CaptnBB

@ TARRCO
I think a dual rad and a GPU waterblock would be a bit too much for the long term. Yes it will work but the demand will be high on the pump.

@Volkswagen
Where did you get the long rad fans for the exhaust side? Are they 8-32 or 6-32 they look like 8-32 to me?


----------



## Volkswagen

They are 3" 6-32 and I had to use one nut as well along with the rad grill and they fit perfect- got them at my local hardware store- $20 cents a piece.


----------



## =JLumbs=

Hey how do i get in????? i dont have any picts but i will show u my video, a little long just skip around and check near the end for sho for the most recent updates.....

Question what rpm does the pump go at??????

  
 YouTube- JLumbs Updated Gaming rig Raven 2 - Feb 2010


----------



## CaptnBB

Pump rpm = ~1450


----------



## =JLumbs=

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CaptnBB*


Pump rpm = ~1450


perfect cause i connected the pump to my cpu fan headr and it shows running at 1436-1455

edit cause i heard its not good to connect to cpu header....


----------



## Sethy666

Okay folks, I need your help.

I really need to have a serious look at my case cooling solution. As you can see by the pic Ive enclosed, my case fans are range from the sublime to the down-right craptaculous.

I know I need better fans and I would like some suggestion on the type and the *balance between intake and exhaust*.

With my GTX 275 pumping, my case interior can hit 45c - which will directly impact on the H50s ability to run cool.

Im open to all suggestions (within reason)... so dont be shy.

Fans:

Red indicates Exhaust
Blue indicates Intake

Coolermaster A12025-12CB-3BN-F1 rpm 1200 CFM 44 dbA 19.8

Coolermaster A12025-20RB-3BN-F1 (LED) rpm 2000 CFM 70 dbA 19.8

Scythe Ultra Kaze DFS123812L-2000 rpm 2000 CFM 87.63 dbA 32.9

Latest Linpack - enclosed


----------



## sintricate

Took a pic, I'm bored.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sintricate*


Took a pic, I'm bored.


Ah,, some Gigabyte goodness


----------



## =JLumbs=

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sintricate*


Took a pic, I'm bored.










I like ur setup very similar to mine that picture is very very nice what kind of cam did u take that with.

What speed of ram r those??? if im right they look like super pi those are the ones i want but they dont sell them in newegg DAMNN im looking at buying the 1200mhz version btw


----------



## sintricate

Quote:



Originally Posted by *=moneyca$hcar$clothe$=*


I like ur setup very similar to mine that picture is very very nice what kind of cam did u take that with.

What speed of ram r those??? if im right they look like super pi those are the ones i want but they dont sell them in newegg DAMNN im looking at buying the 1200mhz version btw


 The picture came out crappy imo but photoshop helped a bit. it's a canon SX100IS.

The memory is GSkill Pi 1100MHz. I just checked newegg and they seemed to have changed them. I clicked on the pair I ordered from there and now they have a different black heatsink... and they're $25 more than I paid last yr


----------



## =JLumbs=

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sintricate*


The picture came out crappy imo but photoshop helped a bit. it's a canon SX100IS.

The memory is GSkill Pi 1100MHz. I just checked newegg and they seemed to have changed them. I clicked on the pair I ordered from there and now they have a different black heatsink... and they're $25 more than I paid last yr










what speed are you running them at with ur oc????


----------



## sintricate

Quote:



Originally Posted by *=moneyca$hcar$clothe$=*


what speed are you running them at with ur oc????


Only 1075 at the moment. My set is good for 1147Mhz.


----------



## =JLumbs=

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sintricate*


Only 1075 at the moment. My set is good for 1147Mhz.


ya cause with my oc @ 4.03ghz my next ratio up will be 1133mhz....

so u have oced the ram to 1147 no problems i wanted the 1200mhz versions but i guess i will have to do with the 1100mhz and oc it to 1133 if safe that is...


----------



## sintricate

Yeah, I ran Memtest until I found where they wouldn't go any longer and 1174MHz seemed to be the limit.


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CaptnBB*


I just updated my triple rad mod with more info and results.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8591711


Nice!

Almost thought we lost you









How is the pump holding up?


----------



## =JLumbs=

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sintricate*


Yeah, I ran Memtest until I found where they wouldn't go any longer and 1174MHz seemed to be the limit.


Kooooo im might get these soon...

Thanks.

I too also wonder how the pump is doing????


----------



## CaptnBB

I'm still here. The pump is still pumping. I can't complain.


----------



## marl

I've been reading quite a bit on the H50 and I'm 110% sure I want to buy it now. Was going to get it sooner, but I was afraid of leaked despite forumers high recommendations. I read on another forum where some dude had a leakage(no real details in the post) and Corsair replace all the dead parts. If that were to occur, is that option realistic?

Anyways, hope to be joining this club in a few days time.


----------



## TheRedPill

new H50 & i7 920 owner:


----------



## Evtron

Well I finally have my H50 installed.

I'm running a push/pull exhaust with 2 scythe GT AP-15's and my temps idle at stock on an i7 920 are around 33C.

Just wondering if this was around normal temps to go ahead and start overclocking or should I consider a re-seat.

Thanks!

Although the LED readout on my Classified is reading about 5-7degrees less, not sure which is more accurate that or coretemp


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evtron* 
Well I finally have my H50 installed.

I'm running a push/pull exhaust with 2 scythe GT AP-15's and my temps idle at stock on an i7 920 are around 33C.

Just wondering if this was around normal temps to go ahead and start overclocking or should I consider a re-seat.

Thanks!

Although the LED readout on my Classified is reading about 5-7degrees less, not sure which is more accurate that or coretemp

Try a shroud but yea you are fine.


----------



## Volvo

I tightened the previously loose screws on my H50.
The temps didn't go down. They stayed the same.
And the plastic pieces that click into the 4 corners of the metal pump mounting ring - all of them developed a crack and split when I tightened the screws. ><
I'm lucky the pump is even holding on.


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
I tightened the previously loose screws on my H50.
The temps didn't go down. They stayed the same.
And the plastic pieces that click into the 4 corners of the metal pump mounting ring - all of them developed a crack and split when I tightened the screws. ><
I'm lucky the pump is even holding on.

Time to call Corsair...


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


Time to call Corsair...


And tell them you didn't follow the instructions?









No way they will RMA that.


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


And tell them you didn't follow the instructions?









No way they will RMA that.


You can tell them anything. _You were screwing it in and it broke???_ I done a few RMAs where if I told them what really happened, they would have not RMA'd it. Whats the worst that can happen? What they'll say no...


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


You can tell them anything. _You were screwing it in and it broke???_ I done a few RMAs where if I told them what really happened, they would have not RMA'd it. Whats the worst that can happen? What they'll say no...


i think those plastic clips should have been metal ....but then again.... corsair didnt think of that...maybe they'll change thier minds in the future


----------



## Hawk777th

What do you guys think of Antech tricool 120mm fans for the H50, looks like they move about 79cfm of air?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hawk777th*


What do you guys think of Antech tricool 120mm fans for the H50, looks like they move about 79cfm of air?



Antec Tricool 
RPM1200 / 1600 / 2000 
CFM 39 / 56 / 79 
dbA 25 / 28 / 30

Consider the Coolermaster R4s
Coolermaster R4-L2R-20CK-GP
RPM -2000 
CFM - 90 
dbA - 19 
They are probably cheaper too.


----------



## leppie

I am going the same route as a few others, just ordered a 'proper' WC loop.

Now to wait for 6-10 days for delivery in South Africa.

Will post some comparisons and post results later (2-3 weeks).


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


I am going the same route as a few others, just ordered a 'proper' WC loop.

Now to wait for 6-10 days for delivery in South Africa.

Will post some comparisons and post results later (2-3 weeks).










Good luck man, it seems that the water bug is biting many









Dont be a stranger. Come back and make us envious, okay?


----------



## Hawk777th

I already have an antec 1200 case. I wonder what fan is already in it, is it a tricool, it has three speeds would be nice to be able to use it, since its mounted and i have a controller for it already.

Otherwise Ill get the Cooler R4s.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Good luck man, it seems that the water bug is biting many









Dont be a stranger. Come back and make us envious, okay?









I started looking at a full water cooling loop as well but I think for me, I would seriously consider phase cooling instead if I wanted to move up from my H50. Only problem is that Id probably have to designa nd build one from the ground up as the "old" ones on the market are of dubious quality, very costly and ridiculously loud. I'm sure there has got to be a better solution.


----------



## Batou

Hello guys!
It's more than a week that on my free time i'm reading this thread from the start of it, actually i'm @ page 65







, so give me some more time before posting my rig's photo i wanna finish to read all and join your club possibly! I've got a question since my new isn't completed yet:
I need 2 fans 120x120x25 for the push/pull setup of the original radiator, i don't mind about noise but i really mind about static pressure and performance. I've read Xtremesystem thread about radiators fans and many other discussions. Actually i've got 2 Slipstream 1900 rpm and 3 yates SH series, but as you surely know those fans aren't any good about static pressure (max 2.30 mmAq). I've read about GT but they aren't good enough for me since even if they produce less noise the amount of air pressure is the same of those fans i've got at max rpm. Unfortunately since i have a sugo SG04 case i cannot really put a delta or panaflo or san ace 38 mm. I live in italy so anyway those are really difficult for me to buy and anyway not enough space really for them. I simply want 2 120x120x25 better if ball bearing with a static pressure > 4.0 mmAq. I hope someone can help me with some tip! sorry for my english is a bit weak -.-. Thank you for answers in advance!


----------



## Batou

btw tubes are coming this week for H50 modding! Thank you to those who gave me so many tips reading this thread!


----------



## JFuss

bahhh
god damn it, ive been trying to save some money for one of these but with no job that is quite difficult.
Anyone know how well one of these fit in an antec 900.


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Good luck man, it seems that the water bug is biting many









Dont be a stranger. Come back and make us envious, okay?









Yeah, hot weather and i7 is biggest contributors too. I know how much you are struggling too







(At least you guys can play rugby!)

I really do hope I can fit it in my case. I got about 0mm leverage both vertically and horizontally on my RAM levers to mount the 240mm rad inside my case at the top (else it must go on top!).

Now, the big question is, how can I mod my H50?

I was thinking as my board does not comes with mosfet heatsinks, I could dream up some invention with some copper piping and a mallet, sticking that to the base of the H50.

Not sure if I really need that though (but I did feel how hot a Gigabyte X58's mosfet sinks get today). Also saw a pic of fried mosfet on another P55 in the forums today







.

Ideas welcome*, the mod is risk free









* Anything but sanding/grinding down those RAM levers, I just thought of that


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Batou*


Hello guys! 
It's more than a week that on my free time i'm reading this thread from the start of it, actually i'm @ page 65







, so give me some more time before posting my rig's photo i wanna finish to read all and join your club possibly! I've got a question since my new isn't completed yet:
I need 2 fans 120x120x25 for the push/pull setup of the original radiator, i don't mind about noise but i really mind about static pressure and performance. I've read Xtremesystem thread about radiators fans and many other discussions. Actually i've got 2 Slipstream 1900 rpm and 3 yates SH series, but as you surely know those fans aren't any good about static pressure (max 2.30 mmAq). I've read about GT but they aren't good enough for me since even if they produce less noise the amount of air pressure is the same of those fans i've got at max rpm. Unfortunately since i have a sugo SG04 case i cannot really put a delta or panaflo or san ace 38 mm. I live in italy so anyway those are really difficult for me to buy and anyway not enough space really for them. I simply want 2 120x120x25 better if ball bearing with a static pressure > 4.0 mmAq. I hope someone can help me with some tip! sorry for my english is a bit weak -.-. Thank you for answers in advance!










If you don't mind going deaf....
120x25mm Delta
Another Delta
Something a little more sane perhaps... Koolance
Koolance with blue LEDs perhaps


----------



## CaptnBB

These are the Koolance fans I have.  And they are quite loud. I'll be testing to see if there's a difference when I mount them to a shroud. They work good though. I have mine at 80% speed right now.


----------



## Batou

Ty for the answer, i've just found on e-bay this fans you're talking about, Delta AFB1212SH, i just wonder if those have rpm cable and 3 pin connector or if as some delta fans got only positive/negative pins. I've also found Sharkoon Silent Eagle 2000, those seems to have a cool design for static pressure but i cannot find anything about their mm/H2O. what do you think about sharkoon on radiator?^^

Sharkoon :http://www.sharkoon.com/html/produkt...x_en.html?id=1

Delta (10+ mm/Aq







) : http://www.delta.com.tw/product/cp/d...0x120x25mm.pdf










really cool koolance ones btw


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Batou*


Ty for the answer, i've just found on e-bay this fans you're talking about, Delta AFB1212SH, i just wonder if those have rpm cable and 3 pin connector or if as some delta fans got only positive/negative pins. I've also found Sharkoon Silent Eagle 2000, those seems to have a cool design for static pressure but i cannot find anything about their mm/H2O. what do you think about sharkoon on radiator?^^

Sharkoon :http://www.sharkoon.com/html/produkt...x_en.html?id=1

Delta (10+ mm/Aq







) : http://www.delta.com.tw/product/cp/d...0x120x25mm.pdf










really cool koolance ones btw


I would pass on the Sharkoon. Doubt that blade design would produce much static pressure @2000rpm.
The Delta SH datasheet seems to indicate only 2 wires. I would contact the vendor and inquire.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I like my Ultra Sycthe 3000. Plugged into my mobo and turned rpms down to 2000 if im not doing anything too intensive.
Never fails, you have a nice range of rpms, sound and cfm.







I havent gotten a second to push/pull. right now im using scythe as push and an R4 as pull.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TARRCO* 
Helloe









Im hopeing this is the right place to askk...

But im looking at getting the H50 ,and I was wondering what the pump was cabable off ? Like ....If I were to mod lets say a 240 rad and add a video card to the loop and maybey a rez ,will the pump wear it self down or will it even work ....?

Cheers

Luis : )

Luis, Yeah Sexybastard proved his 2x120mm rad that is actually work well! you just need to *pm* Sexybastard aboutthat. he might answer your Q.









Good Luck..


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


Luis, Yeah Sexybastard proved his 2x120mm rad that is actually work well! you just need to *pm* Sexybastard aboutthat. he might answer your Q.









Good Luck..


lol my 2 x 120mm mod was nice and all but captbb has really taken it to the next level: 360mm! and it works.

here is a link

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8591711

so yes the pump can handle quite a bit but just make sure you get a reservoir.


----------



## pjladyfox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Antec Tricool 
RPM1200 / 1600 / 2000 
CFM 39 / 56 / 79 
dbA 25 / 28 / 30

Consider the Coolermaster R4s
Coolermaster R4-L2R-20CK-GP
RPM -2000 
CFM - 90 
dbA - 19 
They are probably cheaper too.


I'm kind of dubious about the R4's especially based upon some findings elsewhere:

http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums...08f2f9b5bac024

http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums...c1089ae1e1bdb4

http://forum.coolermaster.com/viewto...=12351&p=95228

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103062

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103063

All of them seem to indicate that the 19dba claim is not accurate and is most likely the rating at the fan's lowest speed which I think is 1800 with a CFM of 69.69. At the max of around 1950 it's more like 90 CFM but you offset that with a dba rating of 23 to 25.

Not bad for what you pay for but if you are looking for low-noise and high static you're better off with Noctua's or Scythe's.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pjladyfox* 
I'm kind of dubious about the R4's especially based upon some findings elsewhere:

http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums...08f2f9b5bac024

http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums...c1089ae1e1bdb4

http://forum.coolermaster.com/viewto...=12351&p=95228

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103062

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103063

All of them seem to indicate that the 19dba claim is not accurate and is most likely the rating at the fan's lowest speed which I think is 1800 with a CFM of 69.69. At the max of around 1950 it's more like 90 CFM but you offset that with a dba rating of 23 to 25.

Not bad for what you pay for but if you are looking for low-noise and high static you're better off with Noctua's or Scythe's.

What about Panaflos, ladyfox?


----------



## McLaren_F1

Does having 2 different fans on a push/pull config decrease the performance?
My setup: Scythe S-FLEX SFF21F Fan⇉Damper⇉H50⇉Corsair Stock Fan


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*


Does having 2 different fans on a push/pull config decrease the performance?
My setup: Scythe S-FLEX SFF21F Fan⇉Damper⇉H50⇉Corsair Stock Fan


 If they are different cfm and static pressure, then maybe.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


I am going the same route as a few others, just ordered a 'proper' WC loop.

Now to wait for 6-10 days for delivery in South Africa.

Will post some comparisons and post results later (2-3 weeks).










Trust me, you WON'T be disappointed. Looks like the Core i7 860 is going to be responsible for an up-tick in sales of water cooling parts







.


----------



## pjladyfox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


What about Panaflos, ladyfox?


Panaflo's would be a good option if you did not care about noise and had room to fit 120x38 fans; with their product range going from 1700rpm/68.9CFM to 2850rpm/103.8CFM. Myself, I'd have nothing to do with them since my sanity is a bit more important than airflow is (read: fans over 1200 to 1400 rpm usually are louder than 20dba).









Oh, I also wanted to update on my H50 temps so that I have a record here for when I get a chance to re-seat mine and use the new AM3 mounting kit I got from FrozenCPU:

Monitoring Tools: CoreTemp 99.5
Ambient Temp: 28 c

Stress Tool: Prime95 v.295
Settings: Default
Duration: 1 hour

Temp - Idle: 37c
Temp - Load: 49c

Stress Tool: Linx v.0.64
Settings: 5 runs - All RAM
Duration: 1 hour

Temp - Idle: 37c
Temp - Load: 51c

Fan setup is as follows:

exhaust: one 140mm Yate Loon D14SL-12
exhaust: pair of 120mm Noctua NF-P12's in push/pull configuration on H50
Intake: pair of 120mm Scythe S-Flex SFF21E's

Thoughts on these results? Are these good or should I continue with my plan:

a. Replace factory H50 AM2/AM3 bracket and install newer Corsair Hydro Series H50 AMD socket AM2 and AM3 Retention Kit from FrozenCPU: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...0-AMDBRKT.html

b. Clean and use thin application of Shin-Etsu X23-7783D on H50 pump: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/89...?tl=g8c127s846


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pjladyfox*


Panaflo's would be a good option if you did not care about noise and had room to fit 120x38 fans; with their product range going from 1700rpm/68.9CFM to 2850rpm/103.8CFM. Myself, I'd have nothing to do with them since my sanity is a bit more important than airflow is (read: fans over 1200 to 1400 rpm usually are louder than 20dba).









Oh, I also wanted to update on my H50 temps so that I have a record here for when I get a chance to re-seat mine and use the new AM3 mounting kit I got from FrozenCPU:

Monitoring Tools: CoreTemp 99.5
Ambient Temp: 28 c

Stress Tool: Prime95 v.295
Settings: Default
Duration: 1 hour

Temp - Idle: 37c
Temp - Load: 49c

Stress Tool: Linx v.0.64
Settings: 5 runs - All RAM
Duration: 1 hour

Temp - Idle: 37c
Temp - Load: 51c

Fan setup is as follows:

exhaust: one 140mm Yate Loon D14SL-12
exhaust: pair of 120mm Noctua NF-P12's in push/pull configuration on H50
Intake: pair of 120mm Scythe S-Flex SFF21E's

Thoughts on these results? Are these good or should I continue with my plan:

a. Replace factory H50 AM2/AM3 bracket and install newer Corsair Hydro Series H50 AMD socket AM2 and AM3 Retention Kit from FrozenCPU: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...0-AMDBRKT.html

b. Clean and use thin application of Shin-Etsu X23-7783D on H50 pump: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/89...?tl=g8c127s846










 What ghz you running? If 3.8 then that is low.


----------



## Killhouse

Sorry for my inactivity guys, been busy with Paroxysm and university work for a while now. I've switched the members list into a google document so you can add yourself.

*If you dont see your name on the list add it yourself because I'm not going to go through the last 50 pages*


----------



## PCSarge

sigh..., everyone is hating on R4's now, i personally love the 8 of them i'm using, and yes i'm nuts, but all i hear is rushing air in and out of my HAF 932....and id rather hear the air....that way you know for sure its working...besides... a wind tunnel effect causes low temps or at least... in this particular case and the way i set them up it does


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


sigh..., everyone is hating on R4's now, i personally love the 8 of them i'm using, and yes i'm nuts, but all i hear is rushing air in and out of my HAF 932....and id rather hear the air....that way you know for sure its working...besides... a wind tunnel effect causes low temps or at least... in this particular case and the way i set them up it does


Are there are R4's without Blue or Red LEDS?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*


Are there are R4's without Blue or Red LEDS?


Red LED's, they match the front 230mm, looks amazing actually ... also lights the entire inside of my case..... and no i dont believe there are any without the LED's, but, you can always snap the solderings so they dont light up

P.S: theres also GREEN LED r4's xD


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


Red LED's, they match the front 230mm, looks amazing actually ... also lights the entire inside of my case..... and no i dont believe there are any without the LED's, but, you can always snap the solderings so they dont light up

P.S: theres also GREEN LED r4's xD


Im not a big fan of LED's









im thinking of switching my push/pull fans to the R4's

How do they compare to the Scythe S-FLEX SFF21F?


----------



## pjladyfox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


What ghz you running? If 3.8 then that is low.


Stock speeds at 3.2 GHz with no overclocking.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


sigh..., everyone is hating on R4's now, i personally love the 8 of them i'm using, and yes i'm nuts, but all i hear is rushing air in and out of my HAF 932....and id rather hear the air....that way you know for sure its working...besides... a wind tunnel effect causes low temps or at least... in this particular case and the way i set them up it does


I do apologize if my feelings on the R4's came off as hateful since that was not my intention. I was just mentioning that the ratings on the box for the fans is not exactly what they give at full output since some were getting them for the low db rating for the price.

Personally, I just wish fan makers would stop this misdirection and white lie BS when it comes to ratings. If they haven't figured it out yet some will pay good money for quiet fans with a high static pressure and/or cfm rating while others will pay for high performance fans with noise be damned. I mean, it really can't be that hard to be honest can it?

The fact that we have to depend upon a third-party to get straight answers regarding fan performance numbers shows something is clearly wrong here.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*


Are there are R4's without Blue or Red LEDS?


I believe these are what you are looking for?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103061


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
sigh..., everyone is hating on R4's now, i personally love the 8 of them i'm using, and yes i'm nuts, but all i hear is rushing air in and out of my HAF 932....and id rather hear the air....that way you know for sure its working...besides... a wind tunnel effect causes low temps or at least... in this particular case and the way i set them up it does

They may be louder than spec'ed but they have a benign noise profile, unless they are up against something. Start restricting all that air flow and you will hear it. A shroud on the pull fan is a must IMO. R4s are great bang for the buck.


----------



## Evtron

So I am pretty impressed with this little guy.

At first I was skeptical before I started overclocking as I was getting stock temps of 33c-35c at idle with the H50.

Bumped up my 920 to 4.0Ghz @ 1.25v and ran an hour or so of prime to see if I was in the right ballpark with my settings and the highest it ever saw on one core only was 70c at full load with the coolest core around 65c, but mostly was in the 67c-69c average of all four cores on full load and idling around 39c-40c right now; my ambient temp is pretty bad because of my cheap roommates!

I'm running this in an 800D case with 2 Scythe Gentle-Typhoon AP-15's in a push pull set up exhausting out the top of the case with 2 other exhaust fans on either side of my push/pull set up. I also flipped the rear exhaust fan to intake, have a Drive Bay intake fan, and a 140mm bottom intake fan.

Overall I'm pleased with my investment


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pjladyfox*


Stock speeds at 3.2 GHz with no overclocking.

I do apologize if my feelings on the R4's came off as hateful since that was not my intention. I was just mentioning that the ratings on the box for the fans is not exactly what they give at full output since some were getting them for the low db rating for the price.

Personally, I just wish fan makers would stop this misdirection and white lie BS when it comes to ratings. If they haven't figured it out yet some will pay good money for quiet fans with a high static pressure and/or cfm rating while others will pay for high performance fans with noise be damned. I mean, it really can't be that hard to be honest can it?

The fact that we have to depend upon a third-party to get straight answers regarding fan performance numbers shows something is clearly wrong here.

I believe these are what you are looking for?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103061


 Um... well then I think your temps are a bit high then. Mine were 55C Prime95 or LinX at 3.8ghz


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evtron*


So I am pretty impressed with this little guy.

At first I was skeptical before I started overclocking as I was getting stock temps of 33c-35c at idle with the H50.

Bumped up my 920 to 4.0Ghz @ 1.25v and ran an hour or so of prime to see if I was in the right ballpark with my settings and the highest it ever saw on one core only was 70c at full load with the coolest core around 65c, but mostly was in the 67c-69c average of all four cores on full load and idling around 39c-40c right now; my ambient temp is pretty bad because of my cheap roommates!

I'm running this in an 800D case with 2 Scythe Gentle-Typhoon AP-15's in a push pull set up exhausting out the top of the case with 2 other exhaust fans on either side of my push/pull set up. I also flipped the rear exhaust fan to intake, have a Drive Bay intake fan, and a 140mm bottom intake fan.

Overall I'm pleased with my investment










Any pictures of the setup?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pjladyfox*


I'm kind of dubious about the R4's especially based upon some findings elsewhere:

http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums...08f2f9b5bac024

http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums...c1089ae1e1bdb4

http://forum.coolermaster.com/viewto...=12351&p=95228

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103062

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103063

All of them seem to indicate that the 19dba claim is not accurate and is most likely the rating at the fan's lowest speed which I think is 1800 with a CFM of 69.69. At the max of around 1950 it's more like 90 CFM but you offset that with a dba rating of 23 to 25.

Not bad for what you pay for but if you are looking for low-noise and high static you're better off with Noctua's or Scythe's.


At the end of the day, specs are a guide. There are heaps of people on this thread that swear blind on their R4s. Me, Ive got a couple of Scythe UK 2000s and I doubt they sound as loud as their rated 32 dbA.

For rads, air flow is the key. As long as its a good flow, it doesnt matter what you get.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Sorry for my inactivity guys, been busy with Paroxysm and university work for a while now. I've switched the members list into a google document so you can add yourself.

*If you dont see your name on the list add it yourself because I'm not going to go through the last 50 pages*










Nice work... you getting very good at this google spreadsheet stuff


----------



## Evtron

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*


Any pictures of the setup?










I could with a ****ty camera phone if you'd really like









I don't have a digital camera here.


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evtron*


I could with a ****ty camera phone if you'd really like









I don't have a digital camera here.


Mine are just as bad, take a look at the 800D gallery of mine here


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


sigh..., everyone is hating on R4's now, i personally love the 8 of them i'm using, and yes i'm nuts, but all i hear is rushing air in and out of my HAF 932....and id rather hear the air....that way you know for sure its working...besides... a wind tunnel effect causes low temps or at least... in this particular case and the way i set them up it does


<Hugs> Dont feel bad Sarge, I just ordered 4 of those and I have high hopes for them


----------



## Garanthor

SUCCESS AT LAST! Got my 965 C3 stable at 4.014 ghz @ 1.5 volts. Idle with my new wind tunnel mod (sorry pics are still coming) is 32 C and max load reached is 53 C (after 3 hours of Prime 95 blended). So overall I'm very happy with the results. This will be my new 24/7 overclock.


----------



## Xs1nX

My H50 should be here with the rest of my stuff by Thursday.

I am looking at going Noiseblocker's for fans thought-out build(CM 690 II Adv case)

If doing push pull on the H50 does that mean i could use two low rpm fans like the ones below and get good results ?

http://www.noiseblocker.de/de/produk...me-mf12_s1.php
http://www.noiseblocker.de/en/produk...entfan-xl1.php
http://www.noiseblocker.de/en/produk...ntpro_pl-1.php

Will be over-clocking with on i5 750.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xs1nX*


My H50 should be here with the rest of my stuff by Thursday.

I am looking at going Noiseblocker's for fans thought-out build(CM 690 II Adv case)

If doing push pull on the H50 does that mean i could use two low rpm fans like the ones below and get good results ?

http://www.noiseblocker.de/de/produk...me-mf12_s1.php
http://www.noiseblocker.de/en/produk...entfan-xl1.php
http://www.noiseblocker.de/en/produk...ntpro_pl-1.php

Will be over-clocking with on i5 750.


I bought a pair of 140mm 1600rpm Noiseblocker (PK-3) fans for my case and they were a great disappointment. Much too noisy. I assume they play the "lets list the noise rating at the lowest possible speed" game, cause they are loud. Never again!

Edit: Now that I finished ranting... I doubt fans that slow will perform adequately on the H50. The stock fan is 1600-1700rpm. If you want quiet get some Gentle Typhoons. You can choose from 1150, 1450, 1850. Even the 1850 is quiet, but if you are concerned you can always go down to the 1450.


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
P.S: theres also GREEN LED r4's xD

You get clear ones too ('white' LED).


----------



## PCSarge

there aint no rest for the wicked, cause money dont grow on trees, my P4 Heatsink fan came to a grinding halt today, so i got out an old garbage AMD pc's fan and am using that now, much smaller, but faster rpm, still room temp heatsink, but i'm out looking at local pc repair guys looking for some fans that i can salvage from out of date pcs lol, hope i find one, the amd fan is rather loud

*quotes an old comedy show*

Dave: its dave man open up i got the stuff

his friend: dave?

Dave: yeah dave!

his friend: dave's not here!!


----------



## seancky2

Using Push/Pull Bringing in fresh Air in an Antec Element G case. I saw another screen shot that looked like the same case, those of you using the same case...are you using it as an intake or exhaust? This case has pretty damn good airflow. What is the general consensus with cases and good airflow: intake or exhaust?


----------



## Xs1nX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
I bought a pair of 140mm 1600rpm Noiseblocker (PK-3) fans for my case and they were a great disappointment. Much too noisy. I assume they play the "lets list the noise rating at the lowest possible speed" game, cause they are loud. Never again!

Edit: Now that I finished ranting... I doubt fans that slow will perform adequately on the H50. The stock fan is 1600-1700rpm. If you want quiet get some Gentle Typhoons. You can choose from 1150, 1450, 1850. Even the 1850 is quiet, but if you are concerned you can always go down to the 1450.

So you would suggest GTs for everything then for my case ?

That does leave me with using 120MM fans when i can use 140mm ones though. Which IMHO is not ideal. Unless the 120mm GTs are so awesome that i can ignore the lack of 140mm versions.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *seancky2* 
Using Push/Pull Bringing in fresh Air in an Antec Element G case. I saw another screen shot that looked like the same case, those of you using the same case...are you using it as an intake or exhaust? This case has pretty damn good airflow. What is the general consensus with cases and good airflow: intake or exhaust?










if you have a high RPM top exhaust fan that moves alot of air, intake works best, exhaust if you dont want hot air blowing on your mobo


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
You can choose from 1150, 1450, 1850.

You get an 800RPM version IIRC, not sure how well that would work


----------



## seancky2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *larryparamedic* 
I would like to be added to the list!
I put my H50 into a new build, so I have no idea what my numbers would have been without it. After gaming at the max for several hours, my CPU temp has never been over the 80-85 F range.
(That's going by the panel of the Aerocool 1000 temp probe.)
I placed my rad on the bottom of the case (a Cooler Master 690 II Advanced).
I plan to add a second fan in a push/pull config in the near future.
I have the rad fan plugged into the CPU fan controller (going through the Aerocool 1000 extension), and the pump head plugged into an open fan slot. This new build is about a week old now.


























Smart use of the bottom intake...how is that working for you?


----------



## Killhouse

*Changed the permissions on the owners list spreadsheet, sorry about that







*


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
*quotes an old comedy show*

Dave: its dave man open up i got the stuff

his friend: dave?

Dave: yeah dave!

his friend: dave's not here!!

Movie you mean


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xs1nX* 
So you would suggest GTs for everything then for my case ?

That does leave me with using 120MM fans when i can use 140mm ones though. Which IMHO is not ideal. Unless the 120mm GTs are so awesome that i can ignore the lack of 140mm versions.

I meant for the H50 rad. Yate Loon 140mm 1000rpm are nice case fans. For case air flow there are less restrictions as to fan choice. And yes GTs are awesome.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
You get an 800RPM version IIRC, not sure how well that would work









You can, but since they make less noise than typical for a given rpm you can easily go up one or two notches in the rpm level.


----------



## WarlordOne

Well I opened up my Asetek LCLC to resleeve the power cable and swap the tubes for clear 1/4" ones. I also took the time to compare the circuit board to this pic of the H50 from LegitReviews:










They are exactly the same, board markings and every single component.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WarlordOne* 
Well I opened up my Asetek LCLC to resleeve the power cable and swap the tubes for clear 1/4" ones. I also took the time to compare the circuit board to this pic of the H50 from LegitReviews:










They are exactly the same, board markings and every single component.

That would be because they are made buy the same people, Asetek. The only changes are the Pump and waterblock.


----------



## WarlordOne

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
That would be because they are made buy the same people, Asetek. The only changes are the Pump and waterblock.

LOL! Of course you knew this because you've opened one up and compared it to an H50, right?

Those aren't the only differences. You forgot that the Asetek LCLC has longer tubes and a copper radiator vs. the H50's aluminum radiator. So obviously you don't really know what all the differences are.

EDIT: I almost forgot that the Corsair's fan is 100rpms faster.


----------



## Xs1nX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
I meant for the H50 rad. Yate Loon 140mm 1000rpm are nice case fans. For case air flow there are less restrictions as to fan choice. And yes GTs are awesome.

You can, but since they make less noise than typical for a given rpm you can easily go up one or two notches in the rpm level.

I have managed to find some places to buy the Yate Loon 140mm's from however i am a little nervous about buying them as i believe that there are "fake" yate loons out there..

I have sent emails to the places ive seen them here in the UK/EU asking the retailers what reasurances they can give me regarding getting real yates however.

Im guessing pending my findings on the above a simple and good option would be the Yates for case and two GTs in push pull for the H50..


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WarlordOne* 
LOL! Of course you knew this because you've opened one up and compared it to an H50, right?

Those aren't the only differences. You forgot that the Asetek LCLC has longer tubes and a copper radiator vs. the H50's aluminum radiator. So obviously you don't really know what all the differences are.

EDIT: I almost forgot that the Corsair's fan is 100rpms faster.

lol? easy way to get a copper rad on an H50......do what someone on this forum did and use a car's heater core...its copper lol


----------



## tlxxxsracer

You guys think the PrimoChill Ice coolant is better than distilled water and antifreeze? Would that be fine for me to try in the loop? Im thinking about it because Im not liking the greenish/yellow from the antifreeze


----------



## CaptnBB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
You guys think the PrimoChill Ice coolant is better than distilled water and antifreeze? Would that be fine for me to try in the loop? Im thinking about it because Im not liking the greenish/yellow from the antifreeze

It would be as good not better. It would be okay to run as long as it has anti corrosion properties. You can always get Orange GM Dexcool antifreeze for a different color.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WarlordOne* 
LOL! Of course you knew this because you've opened one up and compared it to an H50, right?

Those aren't the only differences. You forgot that the Asetek LCLC has longer tubes and a copper radiator vs. the H50's aluminum radiator. So obviously you don't really know what all the differences are.

EDIT: I almost forgot that the Corsair's fan is 100rpms faster.

Honesty, I dont really care as the loop I have now is far better than the LCLC and the H50.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CaptnBB* 
It would be as good not better. It would be okay to run as long as it has anti corrosion properties. You can always get Orange GM Dexcool antifreeze for a different color.









Ya, it says it has an anti corrosion and algea preventative as well.
Im going for a blue machine, so blue everything. LOL
How is your pump and everything running? Im debating in the near future to get a 240 rad. Are there any that are meant for high cfm fans (Ultra Kaze). Ive seen for lower rpm fans for quiet operation.
What should I look for, as compared to the h50 rad?


----------



## WarlordOne

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CaptnBB* 
It would be as good not better. It would be okay to run as long as it has anti corrosion properties. You can always get Orange GM Dexcool antifreeze for a different color.









I agree. Also if you're looking for colors VW coolant is red and so is Toyota's.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Honesty, I dont really care as the loop I have now is far better than the LCLC and the H50.

Good for you. Totally makes up for the fact you post when you have clue what you are talking about.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WarlordOne* 

Good for you. Totally makes up for the fact you post when you have clue what you are talking about.









Steady on guys... lets play nice. We dont need another visit from the mods


----------



## CaptnBB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Ya, it says it has an anti corrosion and algea preventative as well.
Im going for a blue machine, so blue everything. LOL
How is your pump and everything running? Im debating in the near future to get a 240 rad. Are there any that are meant for high cfm fans (Ultra Kaze). Ive seen for lower rpm fans for quiet operation.
What should I look for, as compared to the h50 rad?

My pump is the only thing technically "running".







Its holding up so far, Its still pumping. I have only had is working with this load now for less then a week so far.

As for other rads the only thing to look for is a low pressure drop, if the information is available, and the cost (if it fits in your budget.) I went with the rad I did because I know that in a few months I will be moving over to a custom loop. I can take the rad, res and some of my fittings to that system.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CaptnBB* 
My pump is the only thing technically "running".







Its holding up so far, Its still pumping. I have only had is working with this load now for less then a week so far.

As for other rads the only thing to look for is a low pressure drop, if the information is available, and the cost (if it fits in your budget.) I went with the rad I did because I know that in a few months I will be moving over to a custom loop. I can take the rad, res and some of my fittings to that system.

I may wait for several months before i decide to go that route.

Well what are some good 240 rads in the price range of 40/50ish?
Also where do you get those brakets that you used to mount the rad off the back?


----------



## CaptnBB

Take a look at the Swiftech MCR 240 Dual Rad its would be an excellent choice. The bracket is the Swiftech Radbox v2. You can find then in many places online.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

What about the Black ice GT 240 stealth?
Thanks for the help. I found the radbox. Just confused what makes ones better than others.







lol


----------



## PCSarge

well i got jumpy today, and decided id superglue a R4 to the front 5.25" drive bay covers (only glued to one, other ones cover the rest of the fan) i find it amusing, and the front of my case looks a bit nicer now, i will post a pic or two if you wish, but it will hafta wait till morning. the only question i ask you is, is there any 230mm fans over 800-1000rpms.....id like to remount a red LED 230mm to the side panel and fill my remaining fan slots with the R4s currently on my side panel

P.S: i wasnt silly and didnt spend money on a triple bay fan mount....superglue is cheaper and easier


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
well i got jumpy today, and decided id *superglue* a R4 to the front 5.25" drive bay covers

You break me up sometimes... your an "all or nothing" kinda girl, arent you


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
You break me up sometimes... your an "all or nothing" kinda girl, arent you










absolutely sethy, if i get bored, i try things, this happened to save me 30 bucks buying a kama bay xD
and think, i'm in an HAF 932, the front bay covers are mesh..xD

if you dont mind me asking sethy id like to get in on this "folding team" thing you've got going here, sounds fun xD


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


if you dont mind me asking sethy id like to get in on this "folding team" thing you've got going here, sounds fun xD


We would love to have you join









Shoot over to 
http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...l-threads.html

And have a look.

Ill PM you the rest


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


absolutely sethy, if i get bored, i try things, this happened to save me 30 bucks buying a kama bay xD
and think, i'm in an HAF 932, the front bay covers are mesh..xD

if you dont mind me asking sethy id like to get in on this "folding team" thing you've got going here, sounds fun xD


You could have gone the old CDROM drive route, if you had a dremel or some sheet metal cutters and a drill. That's free too


----------



## luke997

Hi guys,
I've went through ~300 pages of this thread before making changes to my system, and it was so good that I decided to register, say thanks







and share back my findings









My i7 920 D0 settings are:
3.8 @, 21x181 BCLK, 1.26v Vcore, 1.25v QPI, DRAM 1.6v, 1814Mhz CL9, HT on, SS on, calibration enabled 700mv.

Cooling initially was:
- H50 on stock TIM was set in exhaust,
- Corsair fan pushing @1700,
- Radiator
- Coolermaster case fan pulling @1200,
- all connected to mobo,
temps were ~48 idle, ~85 load - which I wasn't happy about considering good cooling in my case (however place under the desk is not great; temps on the desk were much better (ca. 5 idle/load) but no go for my wife

Having learned a lots from the thread I've changed it to:
- H50 on MX-3 in exhaust, mounted more even as per advices in the thread,
- Akasa Apache Black pushing @1400 (that's what speedfan says) ,
- TFX xtender shroud,
- Radiator,
- TFX xtender shroud,
- Akasa Apache Black pulling @1400
- all connected PSU directly with PWM AKASA splitter fed back to CPU mobo connector purely for monitoring,
Temps improved a lot to ~37 idle, ~72 load (Prime95), ~69 (IBT 20x Very High), so 11 better idle, 13 better load

Temps are the highest noted ni HWMonitor for the hottest core (not the CPUIN which is much lower).

Will post some photos during the weekend









Hope that helps someone


----------



## canadianpanda

Just installed my H50 a few hours ago









I am really happy with it although I am wondering if this is right? This is a screen shot of core temp taken earlier after a 5 hours prime95 stress test.

Is the temp my PC was idling at correct? At idle cores were at 800Mhz.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
You could have gone the old CDROM drive route, if you had a dremel or some sheet metal cutters and a drill. That's free too









i didnt have sheet metal cutters or a dremel xD got the drill though, so i decided to skip that route

though i did try it first, not that it made any difference lmao


----------



## Purgatory

Btw did i make a mistake by getting 2 Noctua NF-P12 fans ? I see no one mentioning them... Yeap they are not that high cfm but 50+cfm @ 1300rpm is pretty good i guess, and more then enough if it can cool an i7 860 @ 4ghz...

Or is it maybe a personal choice to get low as possible as you can get even though using loud fans ?

No bad intentions, just to clarify if i did a mistake or not


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i didnt have sheet metal cutters or a dremel xD got the drill though, so i decided to skip that route

though i did try it first, not that it made any difference lmao


What's wrong with cable ties?


----------



## the.ronin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *luke997*


Having learned a lots from the thread I've changed it to:
- H50 on MX-3 in exhaust, mounted more even as per advices in the thread,
- Akasa Apache Black pushing @1400 (that's what speedfan says) ,
- *TFX xtender shroud,*
- Radiator,
- *TFX xtender shroud,*
- Akasa Apache Black pulling @1400


Was is dast????


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
absolutely sethy, if i get bored, i try things, this happened to save me 30 bucks buying a kama bay xD
and think, i'm in an HAF 932, the front bay covers are mesh..xD

if you dont mind me asking sethy id like to get in on this "folding team" thing you've got going here, sounds fun xD

Yay another folder









Welcome to the new users!


----------



## luke997

Quote:


Originally Posted by *the.ronin* 
Was is dast????









Typo, typo, typo...
*TFC* Xtender Radiator Shroud


----------



## the.ronin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *luke997* 
Typo, typo, typo...
*TFC* Xtender Radiator Shroud

lols .. still know clue what that is. I did google it and it appears to be some sort of extender that focuses the airflow or something?


----------



## the.ronin

On another note, are you guys worried that your motherboard might not be getting the airflow it normally would under air?

I'm thinking of getting the Corsair RAM cooler just to get some air circulating in the upper portion of my motherboard.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *canadianpanda* 
Just installed my H50 a few hours ago









I am really happy with it although I am wondering if this is right? This is a screen shot of core temp taken earlier after a 5 hours prime95 stress test.

Is the temp my PC was idling at correct? At idle cores were at 800Mhz.

It's not idling at 13C unless your ambients are that low, and I doubt they are







Probably just a slip-up from coretemp where it read 13C for a second. Great temps though


----------



## luke997

Quote:


Originally Posted by *the.ronin* 
lols .. still know clue what that is. I did google it and it appears to be some sort of extender that focuses the airflow or something?

It's just a 25x120mm shroud which removes the dead spot in the airflow at the middle of the fan - should it be mounted directly by radiator.

http://www.feser-one.com/site/produc...roducts_id=310


----------



## the.ronin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *luke997* 
It's just a 25x120mm shroud which removes the dead spot in the airflow at the middle of the fan - should it be mounted directly by radiator.

http://www.feser-one.com/site/produc...roducts_id=310

That looks like itâ€™s going to add some serious depth to the rad setup. Go push & pull and you must be right up against the H50.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
What's wrong with cable ties?

that doesnt work in a case with tooless bays silly boy lol

and as if half an hour ago... my home pc has been folding for 5 hrs straight (yes i'm at work right now) this pc here at work is sadly too slow and not enough RAM to support folding without locking up


----------



## luke997

Quote:


Originally Posted by *the.ronin* 
That looks like itâ€™s going to add some serious depth to the rad setup. Go push & pull and you must be right up against the H50.

I've mounted rad + 1x (shroud + fan) inside and 1x (shroud + fan) outside, so all in all got the same depth in the case and no problems with ~5cm sticking in the back which is not a problem as the cables require more space between the case and wall anyways.
Other way is practically not possible anyways, would be hard to get such long screws


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Yay another folder










tyvm for the welcoming killhouse, my folding is running on my home pc, i left it starting at 8am, its still running on my home pc. god knows its done 4 WU's already (large ones) and its gonna be running all night tonight


----------



## Killhouse

Thats great, I only started a few weeks ago but doing pretty well.

http://fah-web.stanford.edu/cgi-bin/...name=Killhouse


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Thats great, I only started a few weeks ago but doing pretty well.

http://fah-web.stanford.edu/cgi-bin/...name=Killhouse


xD
i'm at this http://fah-web.stanford.edu/cgi-bin/...&teamnum=37726

i left my gpu running with large WU's turned on and obiously its been getting them lol
either that or its being slow, cause its only done 4 WU's lol


----------



## Batou

I just finished modding my H50 with clear tubes (no res), done with no bubbles


















Here the pump lapped yesterday and polished (long time....)










and here my cpu lapped ready for H50!!










Now need some day to put the sugo together and post rig images, sorry for the quality of photos unfortunately i can use only my crappy phone









By the way, thank to Willhemmens for his guide and to all since i found the way of doing it reading this cool forum (actually on page 92... keep going!)
About my last post i've found the fans i'll use with push/pull conf. and bought them, Delta AFB1212SH 120x120x25mm (10.92 mm/Aq!!!) so ty also for those tips...


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
xD
i'm at this http://fah-web.stanford.edu/cgi-bin/...&teamnum=37726

i left my gpu running with large WU's turned on and obiously its been getting them lol
either that or its being slow, cause its only done 4 WU's lol

Excellent. I see you got it running okay.

BTW, use FAHMON to view your folding activities. If you use the client viewer it will decrease your folding performance.

Welcome to Folding and we are glad to have you.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Batou* 
I just finished modding my H50 with clear tubes (no res), done with no bubbles


















Here the pump lapped yesterday and polished (long time....)










and here my cpu lapped ready for H50!!










Now need some day to put the sugo together and post rig images, sorry for the quality of photos unfortunately i can use only my crappy phone









By the way, thank to Willhemmens for his guide and to all since i found the way of doing it reading this cool forum (actually on page 92... keep going!)
About my last post i've found the fans i'll use with push/pull conf. and bought them, Delta AFB1212SH 120x120x25mm (10.92 mm/Aq!!!) so ty also for those tips...

Looking good! Doesnt look like a bad lap either.


----------



## CaptnBB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
What about the Black ice GT 240 stealth?
Thanks for the help. I found the radbox. Just confused what makes ones better than others.







lol

That would be another great choice for a rad. As for the radbox, Just order which ever one you like the best.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Batou* 
I just finished modding my H50 with clear tubes (no res), done with no bubbles









Here the pump lapped yesterday and polished (long time....)

and here my cpu lapped ready for H50!!

Now need some day to put the sugo together and post rig images, sorry for the quality of photos unfortunately i can use only my crappy phone









By the way, thank to Willhemmens for his guide and to all since i found the way of doing it reading this cool forum (actually on page 92... keep going!)
About my last post i've found the fans i'll use with push/pull conf. and bought them, Delta AFB1212SH 120x120x25mm (10.92 mm/Aq!!!) so ty also for those tips...

Nice Job! what grit did you go up to?


----------



## Batou

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CaptnBB*


Nice Job! what grit did you go up to?


I went from 600 to 2500 and after that bought a extrafine finishing grit for jewels (that i've found in a shop here in Milan) after that 2 kind of polish for many many hours







i'm kinda new to overclock and modding but i spend all days reading on internet about it!
Let's hope now all goes ok with the building...


----------



## Killhouse

Thats a very dedicated Batou, great job. +rep.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:

Here the pump lapped yesterday and polished (long time....)

and here my cpu lapped ready for H50!!
Wow, after looking at yours it makes mine look like crap. Makes me feel I rushed it. When I redo my loop I may take the copper piece off from the pump so its easier when lapping. Im gonna spend more time doing mine








Quick question, is it possible to lap too much?

Looks great though! I would recommend a t-line though in your loop, its almost near impossible to get all the air bubbles out like that. Theyll be caught in the rad and in the pump (wait till you turn it on and youll see)


----------



## rickyman0319

i want to know which way does the fan arroow has the best cpu temp? fan arrow toward inside or outside of the case?


----------



## trivium nate

whats lapped mean?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trivium nate* 
whats lapped mean?

To polish / abrade a surface, usually a heat sink base or CPU die to make it flat(ter) or polish the base to increase surface area contact. Usually improves heat transfer, thus lowing temps.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*


i want to know which way does the fan arroow has the best cpu temp? fan arrow toward inside or outside of the case?


With the "fan arrow" is pointing toward the inside of the case (aka intake) you typically see better cpu temps. However, with the "fan arrow" pointing outside the case (aka exhaust) you will sometimes have a little higher cpu temps, but better overall case temps. This will vary for each person, depending on their cases, as some cases have better airflow than others.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

going to see what a panaflo 114 cfm 38mm will do


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


going to see what a panaflo 114 cfm 38mm will do


Probably blow some air around, I think their primary design function is to do that. Or maybe it's to deafen you









Haha, but seriously. That should see a vast improvement for your temps, especially if it's an upgrade from the Corsair stock fan. Do you have a fan controller lined up for it?


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Depending on your mobo, you might be able to plug it into a fan header.. I was able to with my Scythe 3000


----------



## Killhouse

The UD5P supports 1A per channel and I imagine the 4P to be the same FYI, I spoke to a Gigabyte rep about this for my Feser


----------



## Iroh

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WarlordOne*


I agree. Also if you're looking for colors VW coolant is red and so is Toyota's.


For another color option, Honda's is a nice blue.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:



For another color option, Honda's is a nice blue.


Sorry, where would i get that?







lol. and any idea of cost?


----------



## spectre023

to all of you who have done rad mods... is this overkill?

http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-RS360-B...r-pr-4204.html

or should i stick with the 2x120?


----------



## Sethy666

So I have 4 new shiny CM R4s sitting at my house, awaiting installation.

*Plan1:*

Replace 2 x CM 20RB 38N-F1s (side intake and front intake) with 2 x R4s

Replace 2 x Scythe 2000 UKs in my Push/Pull exhaust config with 2 x R4s

and then

Replace CM 12CB 3BN-F1 with 2 x Scythe 2000 UKs (top exhaust - horizontal placement)

*OR*

*Plan2:*

Replace 2 x CM 20RB 38N-F1s (side intake and front intake) with Scythe 2000 UKs (vertical placement)

Replace 2 x Scythe 2000 UKs in my Push/Pull exhaust config with 2 x R4s

Replace CM 12CB 3BN-F1 with 2 x CM R4s (top exhaust - horizontal placement)

Opinions? Suggestions?


----------



## Killhouse

This looks like a negative vs positive pressure situation?

I figure the negative pressure by having the UKs in exhaust would be better, putting them as intake will be good to start with but when the dust builds up that will change.


----------



## Sethy666

I didnt think of that...

I guess the main question is do I put scythe UKs in horizontal or vertical placement?

Id like the UKs as an exhaust (top horizontal) to rid the case of heat but by the same token, the R4s should be able to do that to...


----------



## Killhouse

Seems like apples and pears







Which is prettiest?

If your exhaust is too strong (with the UKs on top?) then it may reduce airflow to the radiator, or improve it if you're set up as intake at the moment. Though you're probably not going to notice much difference.


----------



## CaptnBB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spectre023*


to all of you who have done rad mods... is this overkill?

http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-RS360-B...r-pr-4204.html

or should i stick with the 2x120?


That's a great rad. The reality is that you will see a very small improvement over a dual rad setup. From what I have seen with my temperatures, I'm only getting 2C over a dual rad. So far my pump is still working, I honestly don't know how long this is going to last. It may last forever, it may die tonight. Only time will tell.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Seems like apples and pears







Which is prettiest?

If your exhaust is too strong (with the UKs on top?) then it may reduce airflow to the radiator, or improve it if you're set up as intake at the moment. Though you're probably not going to notice much difference.


Okay, thanks. Ill run with plan 1 and see how it goes.

I did read somewhere that Scythe UKs dont like being placed horizontally (being a sleeved fan)... some people report problems, others report no issues.

Anyone shed light onto this conundrum?


----------



## Killhouse

Ah, there is that.









Nothing is simple is it! I wouldnt stress too much over that though, if they make strange whirring noises then put them vertical again


----------



## spectre023

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CaptnBB*


That's a great rad. The reality is that you will see a very small improvement over a dual rad setup. From what I have seen with my temperatures, I'm only getting 2C over a dual rad. So far my pump is still working, I honestly don't know how long this is going to last. It may last forever, it may die tonight. Only time will tell.


i see. seeing as i'm only cooling an i5 with a 4.0 ghz overclock i think i'll go with the dual.

what difference did you get from the stock single 120mm setup?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Ah, there is that.









Nothing is simple is it! I wouldnt stress too much over that though, if they make strange whirring noises then put them vertical again









Heres another observation / question...

Ive noticed in my setup with paired fans (same model, specs etc) in push/pull exhaust, the *push fan* runs at 2000 rpm +/- 10% but the *pull fan* usually runs 100 rpm or so below the push fan.

Normal?

Would it be recommended to put a weaker fan in the pull position or leave them as paired?


----------



## Wolfeshaman

a few questions but first i am going to say that i did not read everything.

1. any ideas on what i might see for temp inprovment over the DuOrb CPU cooler (the pic attached to this post is while typing this and encoding 13 episodes of a show the normal temps are 40-43c system idle.

2. any ideas on how much higher i might be able to get with overclocking my system. i have gotten it up to 3.8 while still being able to play Crysis for over and hour. also here is CPUZ for current info.

CPUZ link for my current overclock config.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1054862

While i was using paint the encoding completed the second pic is of the temps two minutes afterwards.

edit: reason for not reading everything is that it was about 1230AM when i started this post of mine which can been seen in the pics. not going to sit here for hours when i have work at 4 am. the third pic is of the temps as they normally are which occured shortly after posting.


----------



## pcnuttie

jeez you only have 1 core? I saw this at best buy earlier yesterday, was convinced and tempted but haven't gotten it yet. I bet i'd see much difference temps compared to my current cpu cooler. Still unsure about how i would need to set the fans.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
jeez you only have 1 core? I saw this at best buy earlier yesterday, was convinced and tempted but haven't gotten it yet. I bet i'd see much difference temps compared to my current cpu cooler. Still unsure about how i would need to set the fans.

All cores are in the same die, so there isnt a need for 4 temp sensors, unlike the C2Q's, that have two dies.

Im sure the H50 would out do your TT by quite abit.


----------



## twistid

I am going to re-seat my H50 for the third time... Any tips to try to get rid of my high temps?

How should I apply the TIM , on the block or cpu? Should I just put a line or spread it out with credit card? First time was with stock TIM, second time was with Noctua Nt-H1 and I put it on CPU and spread it out with credit card. Both times I load well above 60* in prime95 stock clocks and idle in the 40's


----------



## JMT668

do a small rice grain sized blob on the CPU then drop the cooler evenly on top of the cpu.


----------



## sexybastard

if any one wants an extra corsair 120mm fan check out this thread.

im giving it away free just pay shipping

http://www.overclock.net/freebies/68...120mm-fan.html


----------



## WarlordOne

Quote:


Originally Posted by *twistid* 
I am going to re-seat my H50 for the third time... Any tips to try to get rid of my high temps?

Don't spread your TIM. If you have a thin TIM I would suggest a rice sized amount in the center of your IHS and just allow the clamping force to spread it for you. If you have a thicker TIM you will need more TIM applied. The best way to check your mount is to apply it, clamp the HS, and then unmount to check the spread. This will tell you if you are using enough and getting good coverage.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Heres another observation / question...

Ive noticed in my setup with paired fans (same model, specs etc) in push/pull exhaust, the *push fan *runs at 2000 rpm +/- 10% but the *pull fan *usually runs 100 rpm or so below the push fan.

Normal?

Would it be recommended to put a weaker fan in the pull position or leave them as paired?


Yes, it's normal. My observation is that the pull fan is more important. Try to select the one that performs best for the pull fan, and always add a shroud on the pull fan.

Cheers.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

You do not want to have a better performance fan on the pull side. Since it draws more cfm, it will cause the push fan to spin faster and most likely will damage it. Its best to have 2 of the same fans in push/pulll. If not, put the better performing fan as push.

This is what I remember, correct if im wrong.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
You do not want to have a better performance fan on the pull side. Since it draws more cfm, it will cause the push fan to spin faster and most likely will damage it. Its best to have 2 of the same fans in push/pulll. If not, put the better performing fan as push.

This is what I remember, correct if im wrong.

Correct, the most powerful fan should go in push









EDIT: but a shroud should go on the pull side!


----------



## Aqualoon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *twistid* 
I am going to re-seat my H50 for the third time... Any tips to try to get rid of my high temps?

How should I apply the TIM , on the block or cpu? Should I just put a line or spread it out with credit card? First time was with stock TIM, second time was with Noctua Nt-H1 and I put it on CPU and spread it out with credit card. Both times I load well above 60* in prime95 stock clocks and idle in the 40's

Curious, what's your vcore at? I'm using the stock TIM right now (changing that tonight) and I'm getting 46C Load with 3.8GHz @ 1.40v


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *twistid* 
I am going to re-seat my H50 for the third time... Any tips to try to get rid of my high temps?

How should I apply the TIM , on the block or cpu? Should I just put a line or spread it out with credit card? First time was with stock TIM, second time was with Noctua Nt-H1 and I put it on CPU and spread it out with credit card. Both times I load well above 60* in prime95 stock clocks and idle in the 40's

wow...my OC'd E7400 running at 4GHZ runs cooler....you my friend aredoing something very wrong if it hasnt worked 3 times, my E7400 idles at 26C and loads at around 54-56C i spread my TIM out ( its a very cheap vantec thermal paste i had laying around) i intend to switch to OCZ Freeze later this month to see how much temps drop


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WarlordOne*


Don't spread your TIM. If you have a thin TIM I would suggest a rice sized amount in the center of your IHS and just allow the clamping force to spread it for you. If you have a thicker TIM you will need more TIM applied. The best way to check your mount is to apply it, clamp the HS, and then unmount to check the spread. This will tell you if you are using enough and getting good coverage.


So you dont have to spread the TIM?, let the IHS spread it for you? i might be reseating my H50 with AS5.


----------



## Javamaniac

I have the NZXT Tempest Evo case, and on the back panel, there is already a 120mm fan... Should i or could i just mount the h50 radiator directly to that one? or is there a way to keep the stock fan that came with the case (which is exhaust) and use the one that comes with the radiator as well? I really hope there is enough space to fit the h50 where my current 120mm fan is...


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Javamaniac*


I have the NZXT Tempest Evo case, and on the back panel, there is already a 120mm fan... Should i or could i just mount the h50 radiator directly to that one? or is there a way to keep the stock fan that came with the case (which is exhaust) and use the one that comes with the radiator as well? I really hope there is enough space to fit the h50 where my current 120mm fan is...


Yep, you can use the existing 120mm fan that comes with your case. Then you can do a push/pull setup with the 120mm fan that comes with the H50. Just know that if you want to get better performance, you'll likely want to buy 2 better fans that have higher CFM and better static pressure.


----------



## Javamaniac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Yep, you can use the existing 120mm fan that comes with your case. Then you can do a push/pull setup with the 120mm fan that comes with the H50. Just know that if you want to get better performance, you'll likely want to buy 2 better fans that have higher CFM and better static pressure.


how exactly would i do a "push-pull" setup?

current exhaust->radiator->fan blowing towards radiator?

and are the screws long enough to do that? or do you just screw a fan onto either side?

do you think it will fit where my stock fan is now?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Javamaniac*


how exactly would i do a "push-pull" setup?

current exhaust->radiator->fan blowing towards radiator?

and are the screws long enough to do that? or do you just screw a fan onto either side?

do you think it will fit where my stock fan is now?


push/pull simply means having a fan on either side of the cooler, in this case, a radiator. So, it will go like this. [Fan]-[Radiator]-[Fan] with both fans facing the same direction. Usually the side that has the sticker on the fan hub is the direction it blows.

So for example, if you wanted push/pull exhaust setup:
Arrows indicate airflow direction as exhaust (out the back of case)
<-- (Back of Case) <-- (Fan) <-- (Radiator) <-- (Fan) <--

Or if you wanted push/pull intake setup:
Arrows indicate airflow direction as intake (into the back of case)
--> (Back of Case) --> (Fan) --> (Radiator) --> (Fan) -->

What you can do is temporarily (until you pick up extra screws) take 2 of the 4 screws that come with the H50 and use 2 screws (diagonally) to screw one fan in, and the other 2 screws (diagonally) to screw in the other fan, and whalaa!


----------



## Javamaniac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


push/pull simply means having a fan on either side of the cooler, in this case, a radiator. So, it will go like this. [Fan]-[Radiator]-[Fan] with both fans facing the same direction. Usually the side that has the sticker on the fan hub is the direction it blows.

So for example, if you wanted push/pull exhaust setup:
Arrows indicate airflow direction as exhaust (out the back of case)
<-- (Back of Case) <-- (Fan) <-- (Radiator) <-- (Fan) <--

Or if you wanted push/pull intake setup:
Arrows indicate airflow direction as intake (into the back of case)
--> (Back of Case) --> (Fan) --> (Radiator) --> (Fan) -->

What you can do is temporarily (until you pick up extra screws) take 2 of the 4 screws that come with the H50 and use 2 screws (diagonally) to screw one fan in, and the other 2 screws (diagonally) to screw in the other fan, and whalaa!










could i use the stock screws and just use the other 4 that come with the h50 so that i have all 4 screwed in? or does 2 suffice? and do you think there will be room? considering there is room for a 120mm fan there already... [im worried about the northbridge, is it? thats right next to the i/o shield on the motherboard... will this get in the way?]

and should i use the stock preapplied TIM?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Javamaniac* 
could i use the stock screws and just use the other 4 that come with the h50 so that i have all 4 screwed in? or does 2 suffice? and do you think there will be room? considering there is room for a 120mm fan there already...

Probably not, because the screws that you need (and come with the H50) are 6-32 x 1.25 machine screws and your stock case fan screws are likely a different size. You can pick some up at your local hardware store, but will probably be silver and not black, but if that bothers you, you can just do a light black spray paint on them.

Using 2 will suffice for now (as I mentioned in my previous post) until you get a chance to pickup 4 more. As far as room goes, I'm pretty confident that you shouldn't have any trouble fitting this inside your case, but, what I'm not sure about is your specific motherboard.. if the northbridge is high enough where it would block the 2nd fan or not.

You should also take advantage of using the stock TIM that comes with the H50! It is Shin Etsu (one of the best TIM's out right now - so enjoy that!)


----------



## Javamaniac

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
Probably not, because the screws that you need (and come with the H50) are 6-32 x 1.25 machine screws and your stock case fan screws are likely a different size. You can pick some up at your local hardware store, but will probably be silver and not black, but if that bothers you, you can just do a light black spray paint on them.

Using 2 will suffice for now (as I mentioned in my previous post) until you get a chance to pickup 4 more. As far as room goes, I'm pretty confident that you shouldn't have any trouble fitting this inside your case, but, what I'm not sure about is your specific motherboard.. if the northbridge is high enough where it would block the 2nd fan or not.

You should also take advantage of using the stock TIM that comes with the H50! It is Shin Etsu (one of the best TIM's out right now - so enjoy that!)

okay cool man. i think i'm gonna go pick one up in 3 hours when i get out of work. i have a 30$ gift card to microcenter, so might as well put it to good use. i was getting idle temps of ~50C with the stock heatsink of the i7, so i'm really not too happy about that. hopefully this will do the trick. i will then allow myself to overclock it to around 3.6-3.8 if its within safe levels.

another quick question for you... the top 2 fans on my case are also highspeed exhaust fans. according to nzxt, there are predrilled holes for "dual 120mm radiators" up there. should/could i mount the radiator upside down, in the top of the case instead of on its side using the rear exhaust fan? im still a bit nervous about leaks since its my first time ever dealing with watercooling...


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Javamaniac* 
okay cool man. i think i'm gonna go pick one up in 3 hours when i get out of work. i have a 30$ gift card to microcenter, so might as well put it to good use. i was getting idle temps of ~50C with the stock heatsink of the i7, so i'm really not too happy about that. hopefully this will do the trick. i will then allow myself to overclock it to around 3.6-3.8 if its within safe levels.

another quick question for you... the top 2 fans on my case are also highspeed exhaust fans. according to nzxt, there are predrilled holes for "dual 120mm radiators" up there. should/could i mount the radiator upside down, in the top of the case instead of on its side using the rear exhaust fan? im still a bit nervous about leaks since its my first time ever dealing with watercooling...

Oh yeah, this cooler will more than do the trick! I've pushed the i7 920 to 4.4GHz with this cooler. So if you're only doing 3.6-3.8 you will have no problems at all.









Yeah, you could actually mount the H50 pretty much anywhere you want, it doesn't have to be on the back. Some people mount it in the front of the case, the side panel and even the top panel. So there are lots of options, it just depends on your specific case and what you like. As far as leaks go, you shouldn't have anything to worry about, this kit comes pre-sealed using steel tubing wrapped in black plastic, so there is no need for maintenance or refilling of the water, like you would typically do with a full water loop. And even if you're the unlucky 0.00009% person that gets a bad unit, Corsair has been really good about replacing all the parts inside the case that get damaged.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Javamaniac*


okay cool man. i think i'm gonna go pick one up in 3 hours when i get out of work. i have a 30$ gift card to microcenter, so might as well put it to good use. i was getting idle temps of ~50C with the stock heatsink of the i7, so i'm really not too happy about that. hopefully this will do the trick. i will then allow myself to overclock it to around 3.6-3.8 if its within safe levels.

another quick question for you... the top 2 fans on my case are also highspeed exhaust fans. according to nzxt, there are predrilled holes for "dual 120mm radiators" up there. should/could i mount the radiator upside down, in the top of the case instead of on its side using the rear exhaust fan? im still a bit nervous about leaks since its my first time ever dealing with watercooling...


yes you can mount it to the top of your case, i've done it, checkout the "thumscrew ghetto mod" link in my sig, it may give you some ideas, though i'm in a different case


----------



## Javamaniac

another worry that i have, they say to have the pump run at full speed? how would i know where to adjust that setting, or where is the setting?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Javamaniac*


another worry that i have, they say to have the pump run at full speed? how would i know where to adjust that setting, or where is the setting?


Yep, you definitely want the pump running full speed (~1450rpm's). What you do is plug the pump (standard 3-pin fan connector) and plug it into your motherboard (make sure you set in the BIOS to run 100%) or you can hook it directly to your PSU. It's really simple, you'll see once you open it up. You can always ask here again with additional questions or concerns too.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Javamaniac*


another worry that i have, they say to have the pump run at full speed? how would i know where to adjust that setting, or where is the setting?


well whats your monitoring program show its speed at?


----------



## iGuitarGuy

My panaflo generates a lot of air noise. This might be because I have to tape it to the rad


----------



## Javamaniac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Yep, you definitely want the pump running full speed (~1450rpm's). What you do is plug the pump (standard 3-pin fan connector) and plug it into your motherboard (make sure you set in the BIOS to run 100%) or you can hook it directly to your PSU. It's really simple, you'll see once you open it up. You can always ask here again with additional questions or concerns too.


so use molex power over 3pin?

i have a 3pin connector available on the motherboard, but i just dont know how to tell which connector it is when they all show up in the bios...


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Javamaniac*


so use molex power over 3pin?

i have a 3pin connector available on the motherboard, but i just dont know how to tell which connector it is when they all show up in the bios...


Yep, you can use a molex from the PSU (just have to have an adapter) or, if you look at the motherboard closely, it should have the 3pin fan connector labeled, ie: "CPU_FAN". Then if you jump into BIOS, it should say CPU_FAN and how you want to control it. For mine, I had to choose "Disabled", so that it could run at 100%. Check your motherboard manual and double check if yours is the same way or not.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Javamaniac*


so use molex power over 3pin?

i have a 3pin connector available on the motherboard, but i just dont know how to tell which connector it is when they all show up in the bios...


look for an RPM range fromaround 1400-1500 that should be the pump (personally mines at about 1457rpm last i checked about a week ago)


----------



## Javamaniac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Yep, you can use a molex from the PSU (just have to have an adapter) or, if you look at the motherboard closely, it should have the 3pin fan connector labeled, ie: "CPU_FAN". Then if you jump into BIOS, it should say CPU_FAN and how you want to control it. For mine, I had to choose "Disabled", so that it could run at 100%. Check your motherboard manual and double check if yours is the same way or not.


i think my CPU_FAN, which the current cpu fan is plugged into is a 4pin...

and probably my last question for now, sorry to bother you so much...
if for some reason the 2nd fan (the one which will be to the inside of the radiator) doesnt fit, can i just keep the fan attached to the case pullin the air out of the case and then the radiator, with no other fan on the otherside?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Javamaniac*


i think my CPU_FAN, which the current cpu fan is plugged into is a 4pin...

and probably my last question for now, sorry to bother you so much...
if for some reason the 2nd fan (the one which will be to the inside of the radiator) doesnt fit, can i just keep the fan attached to the case pullin the air out of the case and then the radiator, with no other fan on the otherside?


That's okay. You can plug a 3-pin into the 4-pin header if you want. Or you can plug it into any of the other fan headers on the board. Yeah, if it doesn't fit, you dont have to do push/pull, you can do a single push or pull. Alternatively, you could mount one fan on the outside of the case, have the radiator and other fan on the inside of the case, mounted at the back. You have lots of options.


----------



## rickyman0319

can anyone please give me a suggestion about what model of fans i shall buy for this cooler?

thank you


----------



## Javamaniac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


That's okay. You can plug a 3-pin into the 4-pin header if you want. Or you can plug it into any of the other fan headers on the board. Yeah, if it doesn't fit, you dont have to do push/pull, you can do a single push or pull. Alternatively, you could mount one fan on the outside of the case, have the radiator and other fan on the inside of the case, mounted at the back. You have lots of options.


okay cool. thank you very much, youve been a huge help, as this is all new to me. i hope to see some cooler temps later on tonight. i thought 50C on idle as a little much for a core temp with the stock cooler. i really hope this brings it down to around 30C. thanks again, i will post more later on the status of it!


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*


can anyone please give me a suggestion about what model of fans i shall buy for this cooler?

thank you


There should be a nice list on the very first page of this thread. Personally, I use the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (1850 rpm) double ball-bearing fans and they work awesome!


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Javamaniac*


okay cool. thank you very much, youve been a huge help, as this is all new to me. i hope to see some cooler temps later on tonight. i thought 50C on idle as a little much for a core temp with the stock cooler. i really hope this brings it down to around 30C. thanks again, i will post more later on the status of it!


No problems. Just to give you a heads up. When you get to the point where you are about to screw down the pump/block onto the cpu, try to do 1-2 turns on each screw, in a diagonal/crossing pattern so you are applying pressure evenly and it gets a good solid mount. You will definitely see big improvements with this cooler! Enjoy!


----------



## ellisd420

I just bought this cooler today and had never heard about it. the guy at the store talked me into it. when i got home i read all the reviews and am excited to get it running.

I plan on doing a push/pull exhaust. I have a 120mm fan now of good quality and I have a manual fan adjuster pci adapter. (turn knob). even though this is not identical to stock h50 fan, will i be able to match the fan speeds well enough using the bios? Or is it best to use the pwm mb connector? I would like to try and avoid spending additional $$ on fans if I can make it work efficiently.

Thanks for advice.


----------



## CaptnBB

Quote:



i see. seeing as i'm only cooling an i5 with a 4.0 ghz overclock i think i'll go with the dual.

what difference did you get from the stock single 120mm setup?


My temps dropped about 10-12C cooler. (depends on ambient temperature)


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


There should be a nice list on the very first page of this thread. Personally, I use the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (1850 rpm) double ball-bearing fans and they work awesome!


+1
These fans are amazing!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Yes, it's normal. My observation is that the pull fan is more important. Try to select the one that performs best for the pull fan, and always add a shroud on the pull fan.Cheers.


I have shrouds on both push & pull









Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


You do not want to have a better performance fan on the pull side. Since it draws more cfm, it will cause the push fan to spin faster and most likely will damage it. Its best to have 2 of the same fans in push/pulll. If not, put the better performing fan as push.
This is what I remember, correct if im wrong.


Ill stick to paired fans then.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Correct, the most powerful fan should go in push







EDIT: but a shroud should go on the pull side!


As above...

Thanks guys, much appreciated.


----------



## Evtron

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*


can anyone please give me a suggestion about what model of fans i shall buy for this cooler?

thank you


Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15's

I'm really pleased with them.

I did 15 passes of IBT max at 4Ghz HT on @ 1.3v before fine tuning my vcore and the highest I ever saw was 73c and that was like twice it hit it - was mostly 71-72c the whole hour+.

I run 2x Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15's in push/pull exhaust in my Corsair 800D. I have the push/pull config mounted exhausting vertically out the top sandwiched between 2 120mm sharkoon silent eagle SE's also exhausting out the top. I flipped the rear fan into intake, installed a 120mm bay cooler as intake, and have a 140mm fan at the bottom for intake.


----------



## Javamaniac

SO i just installed the h50 in my pc... i was seeing core temps around 50C... now in coretemp its showing:

core0: 40
core1: 37
core2: 40
core3: 35

BUT my motherboard (EVGA x58 SLI LE) is showing on the LED on the board a "actual cpu temperature" of 25. before i installed this, it was reading like 36-38.

Did i do everything correctly? seems to me as the temps are STILL HIGH with the watercooling... is something wrong or am i just crazy? please help, im new to this all... thanks!

i think the "turbo" is enabled in the bios, the dummy oc is disabled...
hyperthreading is on...
all the fan settings are set to MANUAL and at 100% (so the pump gets full power) but it doesnt list like CPU_FAN, JSYS1_FAN...etc... so i dont know which is which or how to set those individually...


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Javamaniac*


SO i just installed the h50 in my pc... i was seeing core temps around 50C... now in coretemp its showing:

*core0: 40
core1: 37
core2: 40
core3: 35*

BUT my motherboard (EVGA x58 SLI LE) is showing on the LED on the board a "actual cpu temperature" of 25. before i installed this, it was reading like 36-38.

Did i do everything correctly? seems to me as the temps are STILL HIGH with the watercooling... is something wrong or am i just crazy? please help, im new to this all... thanks!

i think the "turbo" is enabled in the bios, the dummy oc is disabled...
hyperthreading is on...
all the fan settings are set to MANUAL and at 100% (so the pump gets full power) but it doesnt list like CPU_FAN, JSYS1_FAN...etc... so i dont know which is which or how to set those individually...


Are those idle temps?


----------



## Javamaniac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*


Are those idle temps?


yes...


----------



## Killhouse

Then something is wrong, you'll want to reseat that and make sure all the screws fit correctly and the tabs go into the securing bracket properly.


----------



## sora1607

Looks a little high. Mine was around 30-35 when I first put it in at stock. Might wanna try to reseat it or apply more TIM. Or you could just let the TIM "burn-in" for awhile before deciding on whether or not it's worth reseating.

I'm new to all this H50 thing so can anyone recommend me a better radiator and how I would go about installing one? Does it make a big difference or is it just lowering like 1-2 temperatures?


----------



## Javamaniac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Then something is wrong, you'll want to reseat that and make sure all the screws fit correctly and the tabs go into the securing bracket properly.


if i "reseat" it, i will have to clean and apply AS5 then? i cannot reuse the stock shin-etsu stuff huh?


----------



## Killhouse

Replacing the radiator is quite a difficult process, I've put together a bunch of links on the first post listing all the radiator mods that have been done. I'm sure you'll get your answer there









If you only just installed it then reusing the Shin Etsu should not be a problem, but use critical judgement here - if it looks thin then you might be safer rubbing it off and applying AS5.


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Javamaniac*


yes...


Those temps are high for stock clock.


----------



## Javamaniac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*


Those temps are high for stock clock.


ughhhh idk *** is wrong with this. my first build has basically gone downhill JUST bc of this. what should i do? is something faulty? i thought this pre-applied "shin-etsu" TIM was like the best stuff... now if i reseat it, itll be AS5 and ill put like a grain of rice amount on it...


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Javamaniac*


ughhhh idk *** is wrong with this. my first build has basically gone downhill JUST bc of this. what should i do? is something faulty? i thought this pre-applied "shin-etsu" TIM was like the best stuff... now if i reseat it, itll be AS5 and ill put like a grain of rice amount on it...


The difference is minimal, dont worry about that.

If you want to avoid reseating right away do two things - install speedfan and ensure the pump is running at ~1400 RPM then take a photo for us to look at, we'll soon sort you out.


----------



## Javamaniac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


The difference is minimal, dont worry about that.

If you want to avoid reseating right away do two things - install speedfan and ensure the pump is running at ~1400 RPM then take a photo for us to look at, we'll soon sort you out.


see, the problem is... the pump is plugged into JSYS1_FAN and the fan on the radiator is plugged into CPU_FAN. nowhere that i have seen does it show CPU_FAN rpm, or JSYS1_FAN rpm.... but im takin a s/s in a minute and i will post it...


----------



## Killhouse

it will just say "Fan3" or something, we can work it out with a screenie!


----------



## Javamaniac

CORETEMP WITH STOCK INTEL COOLER:









CORETEMP WITH H50 COOLER:









SPEEDFAN WITH H50 COOLER:


----------



## Javamaniac

and whatever the "temp1" is that says 24C is the same exact as the LED on my motherboard showing that temperature...


----------



## Killhouse

Hmm, I think Fan4 is your pump. Though I'm not 100% - it looks like you have some similar case fans installed on fan2 and fan3, and fan1 is probably your CPU fan.

If these temperatures are all idle temperatures then they can be misleading, try doing some small stress tests and see what you get, though I admit to not knowing a lot about Intel temperatures.

EDIT: If fan4 *is* your pump then it's running fine.


----------



## Javamaniac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Hmm, I think Fan4 is your pump. Though I'm not 100% - it looks like you have some similar case fans installed on fan2 and fan3, and fan1 is probably your CPU fan.

If these temperatures are all idle temperatures then they can be misleading, try doing some small stress tests and see what you get, though I admit to not knowing a lot about Intel temperatures.

EDIT: If fan4 *is* your pump then it's running fine.


well i did set all the fans in the bios to MANUAL at 100%

i have push/pull for the radiator, setup for exhaust...

EDIT: should i enable turbo in the bios, and speedstep?


----------



## Killhouse

OK, great. Thats all in order.

Try running some load temp tests using prime95 or something.


----------



## Javamaniac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


OK, great. Thats all in order.

Try running some load temp tests using prime95 or something.










i used RealTemp and ran the stress tests thru that, i directed it to the prime95.exe

my max temp was 60C at 100% load i believe, the test went from 1% to 100% and the max was Core1 at 60C

when the cooldown test was being run, the max distance to TJMax was like 64 and the min was like 43


----------



## Killhouse

I think that's pretty normal really, I would await confirmation from an Intel user though


----------



## Javamaniac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


I think that's pretty normal really, I would await confirmation from an Intel user though










would i be able to overclock this beast to like 3.6 or 3.8 without rediculously hot temps do you think? thats what my goal was, 3.8, and now that theyre already high 30's to mid 40's im iffy about it...


----------



## Killhouse

You'd need to hear that from the mouth of an Intel user I'm afraid, but I would be optimistic. It should be possible with this cooler I think.

It's all about the load temperatures, idle isnt very important


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Javamaniac*


would i be able to overclock this beast to like 3.6 or 3.8 without rediculously hot temps do you think? thats what my goal was, 3.8, and now that theyre already high 30's to mid 40's im iffy about it...


yes you should be able to. as long as temps are under 80-85c at load you should be fine.


----------



## Javamaniac

cool, hopefully some more intel users will check this thread and let me know (based on what they have) and ill go from there. looking to attempt to overclock in a few hours when i get back home!


----------



## Wolfeshaman

Kind wondering what peoples Ideas are on my previous post. need to know if it is going to be worth ordering the H50 please see link for previous post. any ideas on the answers to the questions would be greatly appreciated.

http://www.overclock.net/8649838-post4610.html


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Javamaniac*


cool, hopefully some more intel users will check this thread and let me know (based on what they have) and ill go from there. looking to attempt to overclock in a few hours when i get back home!


Been following this... your temps seem okay.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wolfesharman*

Kind wondering what peoples Ideas are on my previous post. need to know if it is going to be worth ordering the H50 please see link for previous post. any ideas on the answers to the questions would be greatly appreciated.


I was hoping someone with that setup may answer your question...

But based on looking through various users setups, I would hope you could get better temps with a H50. It will of cause depend on the fans you select, orientation of the rad and if you plan on using shrouds. Id suggest you would see an improvement.


----------



## atakapa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Javamaniac*


would i be able to overclock this beast to like 3.6 or 3.8 without rediculously hot temps do you think? thats what my goal was, 3.8, and now that theyre already high 30's to mid 40's im iffy about it...



It should handle that OC fine, I'm running my old C0 920 at just over 3.8 GHz with 1.35 V at 100% load. Hyperthreading enabled, running LinX, all mem, I see max core temps of 71 C, ambient temp 24-25 C.

Just use a push/pull fan config preferably with shrouds. The H50 works really well for its small footprint.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Count me in fellas







Love my H50


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wolfeshaman*


Kind wondering what peoples Ideas are on my previous post. need to know if it is going to be worth ordering the H50 please see link for previous post. any ideas on the answers to the questions would be greatly appreciated.

http://www.overclock.net/8649838-post4610.html


I dont know your cooler in particular, but I'm familiar with your chip. You will probably see similar temperatures to my 965.

Maybe this will help:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8364079


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Javamaniac*


cool, hopefully some more intel users will check this thread and let me know (based on what they have) and ill go from there. looking to attempt to overclock in a few hours when i get back home!


Checkout the X58 SLI LE thread:

http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...li-owners.html


----------



## Javamaniac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Count me in fellas







Love my H50











would it be hurting my temps that my cables where the fluid travels arent so distant? theyre more like up and down, you can read corsair the proper way how i have mine setup... yours is upside down, the cables are more stretched out... idk if you understand that lol


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Javamaniac*


would it be hurting my temps that my cables where the fluid travels arent so distant? theyre more like up and down, you can read corsair the proper way how i have mine setup... yours is upside down, the cables are more stretched out... idk if you understand that lol


I dont think it matters all that much.


----------



## Evtron

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Javamaniac*


SO i just installed the h50 in my pc... i was seeing core temps around 50C... now in coretemp its showing:

core0: 40
core1: 37
core2: 40
core3: 35

BUT my motherboard (EVGA x58 SLI LE) is showing on the LED on the board a "actual cpu temperature" of 25. before i installed this, it was reading like 36-38.

Did i do everything correctly? seems to me as the temps are STILL HIGH with the watercooling... is something wrong or am i just crazy? please help, im new to this all... thanks!

i think the "turbo" is enabled in the bios, the dummy oc is disabled...
hyperthreading is on...
all the fan settings are set to MANUAL and at 100% (so the pump gets full power) but it doesnt list like CPU_FAN, JSYS1_FAN...etc... so i dont know which is which or how to set those individually...


I had the same thing happen to me I was getting mid 30's stock with the cooler and thought I had a bad seating. When you overclock the 920, at least in my case, the idle temps don't really go up that much between the stock settings and with the new cooler. However it was much apparent how good the h50 works at higher clocks.

I'm running 4.0ghz HT ON @ 1.28v and i'm idling around 38-41c depending on ambient temps and 71-73c under 100% load after 15 passes of IBT on maximum.

Also about your EVGA readout I'm pretty sure its about 10c cooler than actual temps I know that my e760 is way lower than coretemp or realtemp.

Hope this helps!


----------



## Wolfeshaman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wolfeshaman* 
a few questions but first i am going to say that i did not read everything.

1. any ideas on what i might see for temp inprovment over the DuOrb CPU cooler (the pic attached to this post is while typing this and encoding 13 episodes of a show the normal temps are 40-43c system idle.

2. any ideas on how much higher i might be able to get with overclocking my system. i have gotten it up to 3.8 while still being able to play Crysis for over and hour. also here is CPUZ for current info.

CPUZ link for my current overclock config.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1054862

While i was using paint the encoding completed the second pic is of the temps two minutes afterwards.

edit: reason for not reading everything is that it was about 1230AM when i started this post of mine which can been seen in the pics. not going to sit here for hours when i have work at 4 am. the third pic is of the temps as they normally are which occured shortly after posting.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I dont know your cooler in particular, but I'm familiar with your chip. You will probably see similar temperatures to my 965.

Maybe this will help:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8364079


its actually not bad. if you look at the pics and also the CPUZ link you'll see that i have it at a decent overclock at almost stock temps. i think stock is 3.2 @ 40 idle and as of right now its [email protected] idle. looking forward to possibly getting this cooler wonder how high ill be able to get this thing. i think that one thing that is helping is having four intakes (all 85 CFM) and two of which blow directly onto the CPU cooler. think that might help even further with the H50?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Javamaniac* 
would it be hurting my temps that my cables where the fluid travels arent so distant? theyre more like up and down, you can read corsair the proper way how i have mine setup... yours is upside down, the cables are more stretched out... idk if you understand that lol

I tried to install it so that you can read Corsair correctly but it felt like if I was putting a lot of tension on the lines so that's why I left it like that. At the end of the day the tubing is still the same length so temps should be the same regardless.


----------



## Typhoeus

I shall have my H50 on monday, can't wait to get some results in comparison to my TX3. It should blow it out of the water, and my temps are already pretty good @ 4GHz a max of 64c in 20 runs of IBT.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Typhoeus* 
I shall have my H50 on monday, can't wait to get some results in comparison to my TX3. It should *blow it out of the water*, and my temps are already pretty good @ 4GHz a max of 64c in 20 runs of IBT.

Nice pun







Looking forward to some pixies!


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Typhoeus* 
I shall have my H50 on monday, can't wait to get some results in comparison to my TX3. It should blow it out of the water, and my temps are already pretty good @ 4GHz a max of 64c in 20 runs of IBT.

Maybe it can serve you as reference, maybe not but just so you have an idea. My Megashadow and the case opened had max temps of about 51-52Âºc on my rig at 3.8 GHz 1.392v. My H50 with push and pull and case closed did about 42-44Âºc. You do the math









Here is something I posted over at TPU, can serve as some reference for anybody.

The quoted post is in bold black, my response is in bold red

*Quote:
Originally Posted by pjladyfox View Post
Figured I'd better update over here since I posted the info in another forum. Here are my current temps and info:

Monitoring Tools: CoreTemp 99.5
Ambient Temp: 28 c
CPU speed: 3.2GHz stock w/ no overclocking

Stress Tool: Prime95 v.295
Settings: Default
Duration: 1 hour

Temp - Idle: 37c
Temp - Load: 49c

Stress Tool: Linx v.0.64
Settings: 5 runs - All RAM
Duration: 1 hour

Temp - Idle: 37c
Temp - Load: 51c

Fan setup is as follows:

exhaust: one 140mm Yate Loon D14SL-12
exhaust: pair of 120mm Noctua NF-P12's in push/pull configuration on H50
Intake: pair of 120mm Scythe S-Flex SFF21E's

Thoughts on these results? Are these good or should I continue with my plan:

a. Replace factory H50 AM2/AM3 bracket and install newer Corsair Hydro Series H50 AMD socket AM2 and AM3 Retention Kit from FrozenCPU: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...0-AMDBRKT.html

b. Clean and use thin application of Shin-Etsu X23-7783D on H50 pump: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/89...?tl=g8c127s846*

*Let me pitch in some of my observations.

1-Replacing TIM is a huge difference. I went from the factory Corsair TIM to the one that is provided with the Megashadow (Prolimatech). That gave me a few degrees of headroom.

2-I did notice the stock mounting mechanism is kinda cheap if you ask me. I never replaced mine, but I think this should also be a good improvement over stock.

3-DON'T PLUG PUMP HEADER TO BOARD. Get a 3pin to 4pin molex if you have to and plug it to PSU. This made the biggest difference of all. Saw a good 5Âºc drop over using the mobo.

The H50 is a great cooler, however I'm not so fond of it in stock form. However, if you play around with this cooler there is lots to squeeze out of it. I went from having same temps as my Megashadow with an open case to having same temps and case closed. That already was an achievement. Performs like the Mega while having the case open for the MEga, but the H50 was all closed up. Then I went from that to even with case closed, still performing a good 4-5Âºc better than the mega in any given instance. Testing anyone*


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wolfeshaman* 
its actually not bad. if you look at the pics and also the CPUZ link you'll see that i have it at a decent overclock at almost stock temps. i think stock is 3.2 @ 40 idle and as of right now its [email protected] idle. looking forward to possibly getting this cooler wonder how high ill be able to get this thing. *i think that one thing that is helping is having four intakes (all 85 CFM) and two of which blow directly onto the CPU cooler. think that might help even further with the H50?*

There are several schools of thought about having direct air on the H50 pump. Some say it helps, others say it doesnt. At the end of the day, if it works, thats great.

Intake ports vs exhaust ports benefit will depend on whether you are going to run your H50 rad in exhaust or intake. If in exhaust, more intake may be helpful. If running intake on the rad then more exhaust may be beneficial. Again, this is somewhat controversial because everyone has an opinion.

The best setup for you will depend on your system and its quirks. It may takes some trials and experimentation but you will get there.


----------



## Killhouse

Yay 100 rep, that is all.


----------



## Chicken Patty

You deserve it kill house


----------



## Killhouse

Why thank you


----------



## ablearcher

I'm getting my H50 over the weekend.

The Stock Intel fan is just not cutting it, even at max fan (manually set).
I had to turn off HT, for a 5C (load) temp drop. (i7 930)
The four cores are idling @ 50C
They load up to 80C (then I turn the computer off).

I'll find a way to force it into my lanbox









So just for future reference







, these "pre" temps are posted here. (unless if I don't go to Fry's this weekend...)


----------



## Killhouse

Advanced welcome to the club









You're going to enjoy this cooler I think, if you need any assistance you know where to ask.


----------



## ablearcher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Advanced welcome to the club









You're going to enjoy this cooler I think, if you need any assistance you know where to ask.


Thank you, Killhouse. I just sold something here, so I now I have the cash to buy it from Newegg







(I wish they didn't have to charge CA tax







).


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Why thank you










I just noticed we have a similar rig









Quote:



Originally Posted by *ablearcher*


I'm getting my H50 over the weekend.

The Stock Intel fan is just not cutting it, even at max fan (manually set).
I had to turn off HT, for a 5C (load) temp drop. (i7 930)
The four cores are idling @ 50C
They load up to 80C (then I turn the computer off).

I'll find a way to force it into my lanbox









So just for future reference







, these "pre" temps are posted here. (unless if I don't go to Fry's this weekend...)


eww, bit toasty there mate. A few posts back I just posted some valuable information on how to improve the performance of the H50. Check it out, might come in handy.









EDIT: Here you go, link to my post.


----------



## Killhouse

Wow, a very similar rig indeed!

We even have acrylic cases!


----------



## Chicken Patty

yep, we have the same CPU and board. We both have a 1TB and a SSD. Both have modular PSU's and acrylic cases. H50 for cooling, windows 7 and 22" monitor(s).

Holy crap! LOL


----------



## Killhouse

Thats pretty nuts, post a pic


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Thats pretty nuts, post a pic










here you go. I'm waiting on my Sunbeam PCI Wherever rack to arrive I believe tomorrow to mount my H50 and start using it again. For now the Xiggy is having the rig going.

Both of my rigs

The Core i7 920 dedicated cruncher/bencher

















And my Phenom II rig out of the case and onto the Torture Rack. I got some nice plans for this bad boy


----------



## Killhouse

Thats pretty cool, Torture rack always intrigued me. Anyway its bed times here!


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Thats pretty cool, Torture rack always intrigued me. Anyway its bed times here!

me too, I've wanted one for a while. It's a cool case man, love it.

Here is a pic of it when it was inside my TT Element S case, H50 was installed at this time.


----------



## Arexniba

Hey fellas what's up.

Just bought the H50 2 days ago, installed it, and I'm very happy with the results I've been getting.
Mind you, I am some what of a newbie to the PC gaming, and I've recently upgraded my PC and some of the components, so a lot of this was done through researching.

Here is my rig with the Corsair H50:









Temp. w/out gaming:









Temp. @ gaming:









I'm pretty happy with it. It keeps the temperature on the cpu down. I have it oc'd respectively at 3.33 from 3.0.
What ya'll think?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Arexniba* 
Hey fellas what's up.

Just bought the H50 2 days ago, installed it, and I'm very happy with the results I've been getting.
Mind you, I am some what of a newbie to the PC gaming, and I've recently upgraded my PC and some of the components, so a lot of this was done through researching.

Here is my rig with the Corsair H50:

Temp. w/out gaming:

Temp. @ gaming:

I'm pretty happy with it. It keeps the temperature on the cpu down. I have it oc'd respectively at 3.33 from 3.0.
What ya'll think?

Hey man, looks good. Researching is your best friend bro. That's how I learned most of my stuff. That and posting in forums, forums can be great help in your quest for a new rig or whatever you are doing to your PC. Those temps you have there are great. What are your ambient temps like?


----------



## Chunderface

So plugging the H50 into the motherboard gives better results? why is this?


----------



## Arexniba

See that's the stuff i'm still new at. Some guy posed that same question to me when I was tampering with my 9800gt.
How do I find out the ambient temperatures?

Also, the #'s are great, however, my pc has been shutting down recently when I play L4D 2 or MWF2...? I honestly don't know why.

Earlier today I played for like 40min. and it was fine, then I played tonight, it worked for like 20min, then shut down and restarted...

I just had my mb replaced like 1mo. ago...hope my cpu isn't damaged...


----------



## Chunderface

what fans have u got on ur h50 arexniba?


----------



## Arexniba

I know, I know, I think I may have messed this up because I was reading the "Push-Pull" technique, and removed my Raidmax Prestigio case fan from there and replaced it with the Corsair one.
I read the article and saw that you can do this technique, so I used that fan in front of the radiator. I messed up because I don't know what the rpm or the cfm is of the case fan?
However, the results speak for themselves.

Lol, sorry for the long description there, but straight to the point, one fan in the back of the radiator is the Corsair, and the one in front is the Raidmax Prestigio case fan.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Arexniba* 
I know, I know, I think I may have messed this up because I was reading the "Push-Pull" technique, and removed my Raidmax Prestigio case fan from there and replaced it with the Corsair one.
I read the article and saw that you can do this technique, so I used that fan in front of the radiator. I messed up because I don't know what the rpm or the cfm is of the case fan?
However, the results speak for themselves.

Lol, sorry for the long description there, but straight to the point, one fan in the back of the radiator is the Corsair, and the one in front is the Raidmax Prestigio case fan.

case fans tend not to have a very high rpm/cfm rating if they came with the case... thier usually there just to say that they are included, they dont perform at all even in my case i had a stock 140mm cooler master HAF 932 rear case fan, it moved little to no air, so i removed it and replaced it with an R4(2000rpm 90cfm)


----------



## Arexniba

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
case fans tend not to have a very high rpm/cfm rating if they came with the case... thier usually there just to say that they are included, they dont perform at all even in my case i had a stock 140mm cooler master HAF 932 rear case fan, it moved little to no air, so i removed it and replaced it with an R4(2000rpm 90cfm)

Ya, I'm new to this, and thank you for the advice. I will eventually get some better fans to do this push-pull technique. So far it's working ok, but with your advice, I'm guessing it can work 10x better with the way it's supposed to be.
Thanks for the advice


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chunderface* 
So plugging the H50 into the motherboard gives better results? why is this?

I think you read my post wrong if that is what you are referring to. A more stable supply of power like the PSU is better.

*"3-DON'T PLUG PUMP HEADER TO BOARD"*

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Arexniba* 
See that's the stuff i'm still new at. Some guy posed that same question to me when I was tampering with my 9800gt.
How do I find out the ambient temperatures?

Also, the #'s are great, however, my pc has been shutting down recently when I play L4D 2 or MWF2...? I honestly don't know why.

Earlier today I played for like 40min. and it was fine, then I played tonight, it worked for like 20min, then shut down and restarted...

I just had my mb replaced like 1mo. ago...hope my cpu isn't damaged...









Ambient temps is the temperature in your room. Only you can find that lol.

As far as shutting down, maybe something is overheating? Card, NB, Vregs. Something else in your system that is not your CPU. Or it can just not be stable. Have you stress tested your overclock?


----------



## Arexniba

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
I think you read my post wrong if that is what you are referring to. A more stable supply of power like the PSU is better.

*"3-DON'T PLUG PUMP HEADER TO BOARD"*

Ambient temps is the temperature in your room. Only you can find that lol.

As far as shutting down, maybe something is overheating? Card, NB, Vregs. Something else in your system that is not your CPU. Or it can just not be stable. Have you stress tested your overclock?

No, I haven't used any particular program to test the cpu overclock. The only program I have used is FurMark to test the stability of the GPU--which is fine.
Yet, I have tested the game with the CPU at normal ghz of 3.0. And it still occurs.
I have made sure to plug in everything correctly--RAM, vga card, cpu, etc.
I think 1 thing that may be throwing it off, if you look at my 1st picture closely and see the connection to my harddrive, it's a bit loose. I was attempting to do a semi-clean wire tuck, and in the process, I pulled the wiring up, and the tab cracked a bit. So I used some crazy glue to get it back to normal. It has worked, and I don't have the problem when using the computer to browse the web or anything else. It only occurs when I am gaming?









Oh, and as for the ambient temp., I believe my living room is around 55c-65c (without the heater on).


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Arexniba* 
No, I haven't used any particular program to test the cpu overclock. The only program I have used is FurMark to test the stability of the GPU--which is fine.
Yet, I have tested the game with the CPU at normal ghz of 3.0. And it still occurs.
I have made sure to plug in everything correctly--RAM, vga card, cpu, etc.
I think 1 thing that may be throwing it off, if you look at my 1st picture closely and see the connection to my harddrive, it's a bit loose. I was attempting to do a semi-clean wire tuck, and in the process, I pulled the wiring up, and the tab cracked a bit. So I used some crazy glue to get it back to normal. It has worked, and I don't have the problem when using the computer to browse the web or anything else. It only occurs when I am gaming?









Oh, and as for the ambient temp., I believe my living room is around 55c-65c.

If only occuring while gaming I would say it's not the HDD having a loose connection. Are you sure nothing is overheating?

RAM/Vregs/etc??


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Arexniba*


Oh, and as for the ambient temp., I believe my living room is around 55c-65c (without the heater on).


If that was true, you would be dead within a day... Do you mean Fahrenheit?


----------



## Chunderface

haha yeah you would burn to a crisp dude


----------



## sora1607

Holy crap... that's like having a sauna 24/7... even worse than that.... that's crazy. Anyways, is it worth getting a fan to replace the corsair stock fan? How much would that help temperature wise


----------



## Pings

If any one has any extra Corsair H50 stock fan and would like to sell it PM me.


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
If any one has any extra Corsair H50 stock fan and would like to sell it PM me.

eBays got them for $19USD


----------



## TheSqrl

Hey whats up guys I just finished my first system build and purchased the H50 after reading a lot of your posts.... Love it... As soon as I get a few more parts in the mail and have some time I will post some pics.. In the process on putting the whole system in a new case..







As for temps I am very happy my desk sits over a heater and I still have a cpu temp at worst of 31 C... I am running stock clock but plan on OC'ing after I get a new motherboard and relocate my desk..


----------



## Arexniba

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
If only occuring while gaming I would say it's not the HDD having a loose connection. Are you sure nothing is overheating?

RAM/Vregs/etc??

Yes, I am highly sure nothing else is overheating. The only parts I have oc'd is the gpu and cpu. I haven't even touched the RAM because I'm not too savvy with that aspect of the computer...








I just don't know what it may be...and I forgot to mention this, but it was doing this after a while with the 9800gt before I swapped it out for the gts 250.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
If that was true, you would be dead within a day... Do you mean Fahrenheit?

Lmao...my bad, yes, I did mean Fahrenheit..


----------



## Iroh

I know how frustrating it can be. My PhII is very prone to doing that. On both the stock cooler and the thermalright xp-120, it would at random just black screen reboot. Only on water does it go away but it's probably because of me running the memory controller out of spec.

Shoot I thought I had it whooped-- it was 20-pass all RAM linpack stable at 3.8GHz and it still rebooted after a couple hours of folding.

My guess is one part of your computer is almost stable (duh? LOL). What I mean is that the automatic setting isn't always right. Sometimes to make a computer stable you have to key in memory timings and/or voltage, or it'll pick the wrong multiplier (like a brisbane system I fixed today that tried to run two pair of ram sticks at ddr2-800 when this particular system can't do that and maintain stability). My computer absolutely has to have all three of these-- timings, voltage, multiplier-- manually set to make it stable.

Or it could be something dumb. If that brisbane compy I mentioned is in a game and I start the laser printer in the next room, the power draw will put that computer into standby. Complete c3, fans off and all. Kicker of it is, the game will be exactly where it left off with no crashing or anything as soon as the power button is pushed, and it still happens when it's on its own battery backup.


----------



## Arexniba

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Iroh*


I know how frustrating it can be. My PhII is very prone to doing that. On both the stock cooler and the thermalright xp-120, it would at random just black screen reboot. Only on water does it go away but it's probably because of me running the memory controller out of spec.

Shoot I thought I had it whooped-- it was 20-pass all RAM linpack stable at 3.8GHz and it still rebooted after a couple hours of folding.

My guess is one part of your computer is almost stable (duh? LOL). What I mean is that the automatic setting isn't always right. Sometimes to make a computer stable you have to key in memory timings and/or voltage, or it'll pick the wrong multiplier (like a brisbane system I fixed today that tried to run two pair of ram sticks at ddr2-800 when this particular system can't do that and maintain stability). My computer absolutely has to have all three of these-- timings, voltage, multiplier-- manually set to make it stable.

Or it could be something dumb. If that brisbane compy I mentioned is in a game and I start the laser printer in the next room, the power draw will put that computer into standby. Complete c3, fans off and all. Kicker of it is, the game will be exactly where it left off with no crashing or anything as soon as the power button is pushed, and it still happens when it's on its own battery backup.


Ya, to be honest, the main reason I chose to get the H50 was to stop this probability of the system rebooting because of high temps on the cpu. However, it has continued to have this problem while gaming even though the temps have now gone down significantly--Coolmaster heatsink/fan had cpu around 50-60c; whereas, the H50 has kept it way below 35c.

As for the manual input of the RAM, how would I go about doing this?
Are there any posts, sites, etc. that you can direct me to that have clear, concise input? I know there is Google, but there is a plethora of information on this subject...









Thanks man.


----------



## spectre023

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/90...0120-UVBL.html

any thoughts on whether this might help?


----------



## Drazhar

Sign me up for this club, I'll post pics as soon as frozencpu delivers...


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Drazhar* 
Sign me up for this club, I'll post pics as soon as frozencpu delivers...

You add your self now, check the OP and the

http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=toro3ycjqC_ILYe379enMBA& Google Spreadsheet

.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sora1607*


Holy crap... that's like having a sauna 24/7... even worse than that.... that's crazy. Anyways, is it worth getting a fan to replace the corsair stock fan? How much would that help temperature wise


Upgrading fans help a lot. I saw massive drops when going from stock fan to a Scythe 110CFM'er, and then to push and pull.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Arexniba*


Yes, I am highly sure nothing else is overheating. The only parts I have oc'd is the gpu and cpu. I haven't even touched the RAM because I'm not too savvy with that aspect of the computer...








I just don't know what it may be...and I forgot to mention this, but it was doing this after a while with the 9800gt before I swapped it out for the gts 250.

Lmao...my bad, yes, I did mean Fahrenheit..










Power supply? Maybe you can try testing it make sure all the rails are where they need to be.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Arexniba*


Ya, to be honest, the main reason I chose to get the H50 was to stop this probability of the system rebooting because of high temps on the cpu. However, it has continued to have this problem while gaming even though the temps have now gone down significantly--Coolmaster heatsink/fan had cpu around 50-60c; whereas, the H50 has kept it way below 35c.

As for the manual input of the RAM, how would I go about doing this?
Are there any posts, sites, etc. that you can direct me to that have clear, concise input? I know there is Google, but there is a plethora of information on this subject...









Thanks man.


Can you give us a shot of the memory tab in CPU-Z?

Example:









Quote:



Originally Posted by *spectre023*


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/90...0120-UVBL.html

any thoughts on whether this might help?


Definitely. Putting more shroud on a fan helps eliminate the dead spot in the center. Should help a bit.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spectre023* 
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/90...0120-UVBL.html

any thoughts on whether this might help?

I got disappointing results with those. Good 120mm fans with a shroud outperformed any 140mm fan I tried with those adapters.

@Sethy:

Some food for thought... images below. Linky to full test.


----------



## Wolfeshaman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
There are several schools of thought about having direct air on the H50 pump. Some say it helps, others say it doesnt. At the end of the day, if it works, thats great.

Intake ports vs exhaust ports benefit will depend on whether you are going to run your H50 rad in exhaust or intake. If in exhaust, more intake may be helpful. If running intake on the rad then more exhaust may be beneficial. Again, this is somewhat controversial because everyone has an opinion.

The best setup for you will depend on your system and its quirks. It may takes some trials and experimentation but you will get there.

thank you for the info. i realized that with the H50 i am going to be loosing an intake but that should not be a huge deal. ( i can always mount fan to topside of the case anyway). most likely it is going to be push/pull with some thermaltake 80+ CFM fans set to exhaust. if need be i can mount two more fans to the side of the case for intake. this case can hold up to either 6 or 8 120mm fans so that wont be an issue.


----------



## shizdan

Just wondering if this is a good pair for an Q9550 Eo 4.0 and a UD3P? Im coming from a Zalman CNPS10X


----------



## Wolfeshaman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Javamaniac* 

SPEEDFAN WITH H50 COOLER:









Wondering how did you get Speedfan to show the multiple cores mine will only show one. and also does not show the HDD that is installed.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shizdan* 
Just wondering if this is a good pair for an Q9550 Eo 4.0 and a UD3P? Im coming from a Zalman CNPS10X

Yes.


----------



## Drazhar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
You add your self now, check the OP and the Google Spreadsheet.

Thank you very much, didn't think it would be open to free editing.

EDIT: Rep+ for Pings


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shizdan*


Just wondering if this is a good pair for an Q9550 Eo 4.0 and a UD3P? Im coming from a Zalman CNPS10X


Heck yea bro. You shouk see a nice drop in temps


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wolfeshaman*


Wondering how did you get Speedfan to show the multiple cores mine will only show one. and also does not show the HDD that is installed.


Speedfan only shows 1 because there is only one temp sensor.

Have ago with HWMonitor, that reads HDD temps.


----------



## Wolfeshaman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Speedfan only shows 1 because there is only one temp sensor.

Have ago with HWMonitor, that reads HDD temps.



would that show all the cores as well?


----------



## Iroh

that's weird, this went into wrong thread.

Speedfan shows HDD temps with mine, and all cores on an i7, but constantly monitoring hard drive temps can prevent them from powering down because they'll spin up when polled.


----------



## Arexniba

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Upgrading fans help a lot. I saw massive drops when going from stock fan to a Scythe 110CFM'er, and then to push and pull.

Power supply? Maybe you can try testing it make sure all the rails are where they need to be.

Can you give us a shot of the memory tab in CPU-Z?

Example:









The power supply was recently upgraded about a week ago from 500w to 600w. The psu is 100% brand new from Frys. Yet, what did you mean by "...make sure all the *rails* are where they need to be?"

Lastly, here's a picture of the Memory tab from CPU-Z:


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wolfeshaman* 
would that show all the cores as well?

Yes, it shows temps for CPU, HDD, GPU and other things. Its a handy tool


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Arexniba*


The power supply was recently upgraded about a week ago from 500w to 600w. The psu is 100% brand new from Frys. Yet, what did you mean by "...make sure all the *rails* are where they need to be?"

Lastly, here's a picture of the Memory tab from CPU-Z:










I just noticed your sig, your mixing 2 ram? Patroit and gskill?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wolfeshaman*


would that show all the cores as well?


*There is only one temp sensor.* Any application that shows 4 temps will show the same for every core. Most applications will only show one, like core temp. Heres mine:










(folding for 6 hours, 25-29'c isnt bad, core temp had only been open for 2 of those hours)


----------



## Aqualoon

Couple questions here...

Running my 955 @ 1.40v, load temps are 46C - my system never idles so idle temp is a moot point.

Currently running on the stock TIM, but have TX-3 on hand...anyone know how those two compare? I keep doing google searches but it doesn't yield much for results.

Also, for fan choices using the one that came with my case (Lian Li PC-K62) and the one that came with the H50...are there better fan choices?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aqualoon*


Couple questions here...

Running my 955 @ 1.40v, load temps are 46C - my system never idles so idle temp is a moot point.

Currently running on the stock TIM, but have TX-3 on hand...anyone know how those two compare? I keep doing google searches but it doesn't yield much for results.

Also, for fan choices using the one that came with my case (Lian Li PC-K62) and the one that came with the H50...are there better fan choices?


Although the Stock tim is ment to be very good, people have reported good drops by replacing the stock tim.

Fan wise, what kind if fan are you looking for? Noisy/High CFM fans or Quiet/Silent fans?


----------



## Aqualoon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Fan wise, what kind if fan are you looking for? Noisy/High CFM fans or Quiet/Silent fans?


Fans that are better then what I have.

Noise isn't too big of an issue as the PC is in my den with a 150g and 29g aquarium, so I never hear my PC over the pumps and other equipment.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aqualoon*


Fans that are better then what I have.

Noise isn't too big of an issue as the PC is in my den with a 150g and 29g aquarium, so I never hear my PC over the pumps and other equipment.


Well then, theres high speed Ultra kazes that spin at upto 3000 RPM, theres San Ace's that are Highly recommended, theres Scythe Gentle Typhoon's that are also highly recommended but are abit quiter. Theres tons and tons of different purposes. Yate Loon's are also quite good from what i've heard.

Of the lot, look at the San Ace's, they are very good if you dont mind the noise.


----------



## Aqualoon

Excellent, thank you


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aqualoon*


Excellent, thank you


No problem. As i see your in the US, take a look here, they have a good selection, may also be worth looking on Newegg and shopping around.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Arexniba*


The power supply was recently upgraded about a week ago from 500w to 600w. The psu is 100% brand new from Frys. Yet, what did you mean by "...make sure all the *rails* are where they need to be?"

Lastly, here's a picture of the Memory tab from CPU-Z:










Hey sorry I missed your post, I'm at work and posting from the phone. Did the issue start since you put the new PSU?


----------



## Aqualoon

Another stupid question, looking at fans now...what size?

120mm x 12mm
120mm x 20mm
120mm x 25mm
120mm x 32mm
120mm x 34mm
120mm x 38mm
120mm x 55mm

When I look up my case it just says 120mm fan.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aqualoon*


Another stupid question, looking at fans now...what size?

120mm x 12mm
120mm x 20mm
120mm x 25mm
120mm x 32mm
120mm x 34mm
120mm x 38mm
120mm x 55mm

When I look up my case it just says 120mm fan.



the 120mm x 25mm is the most common of size for the 120mm FAN's . . .

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Arexniba

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Hey sorry I missed your post, I'm at work and posting from the phone. Did the issue start since you put the new PSU?


It's cool man, we're all busy people







so no worries. 
And no, the problem was persisting before that too. And it was only when I played L4D 2. When I played MWF2 it gave me no problem. I even changed the resolution to 640x480 rather than 1024x768. And still the same problem.
Last night I was tweaking the cpu again @ 3.6ghz, and had no problem on my computer for a good hour or so. The temps were well under 32C, too. 
Until I played about 2 rounds of MWF2 did it just restart itself. And it didn't completely restart, it went to the black screen showing the video card info., but just stayed stuck there. So, I had to do a manual restart and it worked back to normal.

So...I'm pretty stuck on the problem right now.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*


I just noticed your sig, your mixing 2 ram? Patroit and gskill?


Hey McLaren...yes, I must say I am guilty of this. I wanted to max. out my RAM memory to 8gb, and I originally had 3x1gb Patriot sticks. Then, I installed the Win 7 OS 64-bit system and decided to look on Craigslist for 2gb sticks. So, I found those G-Skill ones. Both the Patriot and G-Skills are DDR2-6400pc & 800mhz; however, after I researched more after the purchase, I realized their frequency, clocks, and voltage were different...








Do you think this is the reason for the random restarts from gaming?
If so, why is it normal when I am not gaming?
And last food for thought I have is, under the Windows Experience, it has the RAM memory assessment at 6.8 from the possible 7.9 score.









Any help from any of you will be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aqualoon*


Another stupid question, looking at fans now...what size?

120mm x 12mm
120mm x 20mm
120mm x 25mm
120mm x 32mm
120mm x 34mm
120mm x 38mm
120mm x 55mm

When I look up my case it just says 120mm fan.


Like said before, 25mm think is the most common but you should look at 38 and 55, they will produce more static pressure, meaning a more effective fan.


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Arexniba*


Hey McLaren...yes, I must say I am guilty of this. I wanted to max. out my RAM memory to 8gb, and I originally had 3x1gb Patriot sticks. Then, I installed the Win 7 OS 64-bit system and decided to look on Craigslist for 2gb sticks. So, I found those G-Skill ones. Both the Patriot and G-Skills are DDR2-6400pc & 800mhz; however, after I researched more after the purchase, I realized their frequency, clocks, and voltage were different...








Do you think this is the reason for the random restarts from gaming?
If so, why is it normal when I am not gaming?
And last food for thought I have is, under the Windows Experience, it has the RAM memory assessment at 6.8 from the possible 7.9 score.









Any help from any of you will be greatly appreciated.










Mixing RAM causes instability. i would try taking out the G-Skills and try running a game too see if there's any random restarts from gaming.


----------



## Aqualoon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Like said before, 25mm think is the most common but you should look at 38 and 55, they will produce more static pressure, meaning a more effective fan.

Was just about to buy 2 of these before I read that...gonna go relook now!

So now I'm looking at two of these vs the Yate Loons...would I need longer screws for the Scythes?


----------



## Arexniba

Quote:


Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1* 
Mixing RAM causes instability. i would try taking out the G-Skills and try running a game too see if there's any random restarts from gaming.

I'll go ahead and try this out later today and post up the results. I'll play for about 1/2hr. with 3x1gb Patriot sticks, then the 2x2g G-Skills.


----------



## rickyman0319

i am wondering where do i buy H50 with 240 rad?


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Iroh* 
constantly monitoring hard drive temps can prevent them from powering down because they'll spin up when polled.

That's normal.

Just think how can it read the temp if the hard disk is in a standby state?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aqualoon* 
Another stupid question, looking at fans now...what size?

120mm x 12mm
120mm x 20mm
120mm x 25mm
120mm x 32mm
120mm x 34mm
120mm x 38mm
120mm x 55mm

When I look up my case it just says 120mm fan.

You missed 120mm x 76mm (a dual Delta).


----------



## leppie

Double post. Delete please.


----------



## Aqualoon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rickyman0319* 
i am wondering where do i buy H50 with 240 rad?

Have to custom mod it


----------



## WarlordOne

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rickyman0319* 
i am wondering where do i buy H50 with 240 rad?

Asetek LCLC 240 on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Asetek-LCLC-PRE-...item3efd860f5a

or mod an h50


----------



## Xs1nX

Will the lack of the sticky pads on the retention backplate cause any issues in fitting the H50 ? as I needed to remove mine as part of troubleshooting an issue described over in the CM 690 Case thread (http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...ml#post8665679)


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aqualoon* 
Was just about to buy 2 of these before I read that...gonna go relook now!

So now I'm looking at two of these vs the Yate Loons...would I need longer screws for the Scythes?

Probabley best to go for the Yate loon's. The Scythe's are good but the will mosy likey make a clicking noise and wont be as quiet, although they should push more air though the radiator.


----------



## CaptnBB

Quote:

Will the lack of the sticky pads on the retention backplate cause any issues in fitting the H50 ? as I needed to remove mine as part of troubleshooting an issue described over in the CM 690 Case thread (http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...ml#post8665679)
To put it simply. No. They are only there to help hold the backplate when installing.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aqualoon* 
Another stupid question, looking at fans now...what size?

120mm x 12mm
120mm x 20mm
120mm x 25mm
120mm x 32mm
120mm x 34mm
120mm x 38mm
120mm x 55mm

When I look up my case it just says 120mm fan.

as stated earlier 120x25 is the most common. However if you look at 120x35'mm you'll find some really good flowing fans. Loud, but really good flowing. You'll need longer screws than what the H50 came with to mount 120x35mm fans though. Go to Home Depot and get some 6/32 Thread by 2" long screws. Those should do the job.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Arexniba* 
It's cool man, we're all busy people







so no worries.
And no, the problem was persisting before that too. And it was only when I played L4D 2. When I played MWF2 it gave me no problem. I even changed the resolution to 640x480 rather than 1024x768. And still the same problem.
Last night I was tweaking the cpu again @ 3.6ghz, and had no problem on my computer for a good hour or so. The temps were well under 32C, too.
Until I played about 2 rounds of MWF2 did it just restart itself. And it didn't completely restart, it went to the black screen showing the video card info., but just stayed stuck there. So, I had to do a manual restart and it worked back to normal.

So...I'm pretty stuck on the problem right now.









Hey McLaren...yes, I must say I am guilty of this. I wanted to max. out my RAM memory to 8gb, and I originally had 3x1gb Patriot sticks. Then, I installed the Win 7 OS 64-bit system and decided to look on Craigslist for 2gb sticks. So, I found those G-Skill ones. Both the Patriot and G-Skills are DDR2-6400pc & 800mhz; however, after I researched more after the purchase, I realized their frequency, clocks, and voltage were different...








Do you think this is the reason for the random restarts from gaming?
If so, why is it normal when I am not gaming?
And last food for thought I have is, under the Windows Experience, it has the RAM memory assessment at 6.8 from the possible 7.9 score.









Any help from any of you will be greatly appreciated.









Try using only one set of RAM at a time and see. Remember you are running the RAM at specs where maybe one set can run at, but not the other. Not only that but even though you have some RAM modules processing data at certain clocks/rate while other sticks might have some timings off.


----------



## AK_Zeke

Due to some limitations of my case, I want to mount the push/push fans and radiator in the extra 5.25 inch bays. What is a good way of mounting them. I would like to screw them to some sort of bracket but can't seem to locate any thing that will work like I want them too. Any suggestions???


----------



## Arexniba

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
as stated earlier 120x25 is the most common. However if you look at 120x35'mm you'll find some really good flowing fans. Loud, but really good flowing. You'll need longer screws than what the H50 came with to mount 120x35mm fans though. Go to Home Depot and get some 6/32 Thread by 2" long screws. Those should do the job.

Try using only one set of RAM at a time and see. Remember you are running the RAM at specs where maybe one set can run at, but not the other. Not only that but even though you have some RAM modules processing data at certain clocks/rate while other sticks might have some timings off.

So, you think it's better to do like 1 Patriot stick at a time? I ask b/c all the Patriots are exactly the same specs, and the pair of G.Skills have identical specs too.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Arexniba* 
So, you think it's better to do like 1 Patriot stick at a time? I ask b/c all the Patriots are exactly the same specs, and the pair of G.Skills have identical specs too.

Its normally not so bad when the sticks are exactly the same but having two sticks of 1 gb and two of 2gb is not the best thing to do, although Should work just fine. What are the stock speeds voltages and timings of each stick?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AK_Zeke* 
Due to some limitations of my case, I want to mount the push/push fans and radiator in the extra 5.25 inch bays. What is a good way of mounting them. I would like to screw them to some sort of bracket but can't seem to locate any thing that will work like I want them too. Any suggestions???

So you want to mount your H50 in the 5.25" drive bays? Just want to make sure I'm understanding you.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Arexniba* 
So, you think it's better to do like 1 Patriot stick at a time? I ask b/c all the Patriots are exactly the same specs, and the pair of G.Skills have identical specs too.

not one stick at a time, just one set at a time. G.Skill sticks first, then the patriots.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aqualoon* 
Was just about to buy 2 of these before I read that...gonna go relook now!

So now I'm looking at two of these vs the Yate Loons...would I need longer screws for the Scythes?

You can't go wrong with either fan. They both do their jobs great. Those YL's will be quieter but wont push as much air compared to those Scythe's which will be much louder and push more air. It really depends on what you're looking to get out of this. Additionally, you can get a Fan Controller, so you could then run those Scythe's 100% when needed and then dial them down when you want it quieter. Although, I think those Scythe's will make a clicking noise at lower rpm.

You could also look at Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (1850rpm) double ball-bearing fans. They do a great job in my opinion.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AK_Zeke* 
Due to some limitations of my case, I want to mount the push/push fans and radiator in the extra 5.25 inch bays. What is a good way of mounting them. I would like to screw them to some sort of bracket but can't seem to locate any thing that will work like I want them too. Any suggestions???

. . . the most common of & cheapest route would be to use the bottom-metal portion
of a dead/no good CDRom drv.... some have taken an option of using and modding
a 5.25" Bay_floppy drv adapter, even. Have seen other's who have just bolt'd the whole
setup upon the HHD_top-roof portion of the bay area OR to the bottom of the 5.25" rack
itself . Might be other option's for out there and hopefully they/someone else
will chime in and share Info about's . . . .again, jst my 2







worth of help for ya

{ just 2 add: got to keep in mind the length of the cooling-lines will restrict your option of mounting location . . .}

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AK_Zeke*


Due to some limitations of my case, I want to mount the push/push fans and radiator in the extra 5.25 inch bays. What is a good way of mounting them. I would like to screw them to some sort of bracket but can't seem to locate any thing that will work like I want them too. Any suggestions???


I did something pretty similar. Check my post here and it might give you some ideas. I ended up keeping my radiator on the back of the case, but you could easily mount it by making an Airbox/Windtunnel thing like I did.


----------



## shizdan

Just wondering since I will be getting this cooler around tuesday. Is there stock thermal paste good?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shizdan*


Just wondering since I will be getting this cooler around tuesday. Is there stock thermal paste good?


Yup! Don't clean it off whatever you do, its Shin Etsu. It's rated really high, so make sure you take advantage and use it!


----------



## shizdan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Yup! Don't clean it off whatever you do, its Shin Etsu. It's rated really high, so make sure you take advantage and use it!










Ok thanks! +rep

Also, Anything else that Is hould know about the cooler?


----------



## Javamaniac

I still am questioning myself about my core temps... idle around 38-42... WITH the h50 installed with the stock TIM that came on it. IS IT POSSIBLE that I didnt tighten the h50 down enough? I didnt wanna strip anything so I think i made it tight to the touch, but didnt really turn down hard on them...


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Yup! Don't clean it off whatever you do, its Shin Etsu. It's rated really high, so make sure you take advantage and use it!










Really? I have some **** etsu here. However, I saw like a 3Âºc drop by switching to the one that came with the prolimatech. I think they apply way too much.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Javamaniac*


I still am questioning myself about my core temps... idle around 38-42... WITH the h50 installed with the stock TIM that came on it. IS IT POSSIBLE that I didnt tighten the h50 down enough? I didnt wanna strip anything so I think i made it tight to the touch, but didnt really turn down hard on them...


As long as it's not super tight, try a bit more.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shizdan*


Ok thanks! +rep

Also, Anything else that Is hould know about the cooler?


The only thing I can think of, which is just advice.. is a good proper mount. Some times people won't get a good mount the first time and will see slightly higher temps. So I would suggest that when you mount this to your CPU, make sure that the black notches around the pump line up and click into the groves (you'll know what i mean when you look take it out of the box and look at it) and try to put some pressure on it so it doesn't pop out of those notches and take a phillips screwdriver and do about 1-2 turns per screw in a crossing/diagonal pattern so it applies pressure evenly all the way until it's nice and tight. This will help make sure you get a good solid mount the first time.


----------



## Javamaniac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


The only thing I can think of, which is just advice.. is a good proper mount. Some times people won't get a good mount the first time and will see slightly higher temps. So I would suggest that when you mount this to your CPU, make sure that the black notches around the pump line up and click into the groves (you'll know what i mean when you look take it out of the box and look at it) and try to put some pressure on it so it doesn't pop out of those notches and take a phillips screwdriver and do about 1-2 turns per screw in a crossing/diagonal pattern so it applies pressure evenly all the way until it's nice and tight. This will help make sure you get a good solid mount the first time.










do you think thats my problem with the 38-42 idle temps?


----------



## shizdan

thanks for the serious help!


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AK_Zeke*


Due to some limitations of my case, I want to mount the push/push fans and radiator in the extra 5.25 inch bays. What is a good way of mounting them. I would like to screw them to some sort of bracket but can't seem to locate any thing that will work like I want them too. Any suggestions???


http://www.overclock.net/7908184-post609.html


----------



## Javamaniac

I'm currently unzipping a rather large archive, and my load is ~50% on the 4 cores... Here is a screenshot of coretemp. Let me know what you think about the temps vs load. If you think they're fine, then I won't be pulling any more hair out over these high idle temps.


----------



## ljason8eg

You can't really call those load temps. An H50 should be getting around 55C load temps, but I'm talking a full load here like Prime95 or Linx, not unzipping something.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Javamaniac*


I'm currently unzipping a rather large archive, and my load is ~50% on the 4 cores... Here is a screenshot of coretemp. Let me know what you think about the temps vs load. If you think they're fine, then I won't be pulling any more hair out over these high idle temps.











Hmm. What is your ambient temp? Also we need to take into consideration, the type of fans you're using, your cases airflow, etc. Just for reference, I changed everything in my BIOS to default/auto using just 2.67GHz w/ HT on. I have 23c ambients. I have 2 GT 1850's as push/pull on the radiator and some decent airflow in my case. With that, I'm idling at around 30c-36c and 100% load with 55c-60c.

Granted, that's just stock, I could definitely lower the vcore on this clock and get the temps lower, but, I just wanted to try and mimic your clock settings and get you a rough idea.


----------



## whoisron

hey guys I just purchased a corsair h50 hydro and it should be arriving soon. I read on corsair blogs any many forums that the push/pull setup will give me lower temps on my core. Can anyone recommend some good fans to use or tell me what fans they use? So far I been googling looking around on forums but im still somewhat confused it seems like everyone is using different fans. I read on bitech that the best static pressure 120mm fan they ran and tested was the scythe gentle typhoon 1450 it produces 21db @ 50cfm, which seems to be what corsair blog recommends that you get a two 120mm fans of the same type both producing about 50cfm. With this setup would I keep the fans on full power RPM or should I have it controlled and throttled by the MB?

Thanks for your help guys.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


http://www.overclock.net/7908184-post609.html


Dude that's awesome. Very well done. Did you use anything to mount the fan to the drive bay like that?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *whoisron*


hey guys I just purchased a corsair h50 hydro and it should be arriving soon. I read on corsair blogs any many forums that the push/pull setup will give me lower temps on my core. Can anyone recommend some good fans to use or tell me what fans they use? So far I been googling looking around on forums but im still somewhat confused it seems like everyone is using different fans. I read on bitech that the best static pressure 120mm fan they ran and tested was the scythe gentle typhoon 1450 it produces 21db @ 50cfm, which seems to be what corsair blog recommends that you get a two 120mm fans of the same type both producing about 50cfm. With this setup would I keep the fans on full power RPM or should I have it controlled and throttled by the MB?

Thanks for your help guys.


Indeed that's right. static pressure is one thing that's often overlooked. You might say oh but this fan flows 100cfm but you put it on a H50 and hardly any air comes out the other side. The Gentle Typhoons are not the greatest CFM fans ever, but they do great on coolers and rads.


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Indeed that's right. static pressure is one thing that's often overlooked. You might say oh but this fan flows 100cfm but you put it on a H50 and hardly any air comes out the other side. The Gentle Typhoons are not the greatest CFM fans ever, but they do great on coolers and rads.


+1 I love these fans!


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84*


+1 I love these fans!


I've been wanting to try a pair on my H50. I'm speaking from test results and posts from others. Can't go wrong with them.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *whoisron*


hey guys I just purchased a corsair h50 hydro and it should be arriving soon. I read on corsair blogs any many forums that the push/pull setup will give me lower temps on my core. Can anyone recommend some good fans to use or tell me what fans they use? So far I been googling looking around on forums but im still somewhat confused it seems like everyone is using different fans. I read on bitech that the best static pressure 120mm fan they ran and tested was the scythe gentle typhoon 1450 it produces 21db @ 50cfm, which seems to be what corsair blog recommends that you get a two 120mm fans of the same type both producing about 50cfm. With this setup would I keep the fans on full power RPM or should I have it controlled and throttled by the MB?

Thanks for your help guys.


I would recommend what you just mentioned, but, the slightly faster ones; Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (1850rpm's). I run mine full power and they are pretty darn quiet for the amount of air they push. You can't go wrong with these fans!


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Dude that's awesome. Very well done. Did you use anything to mount the fan to the drive bay like that?

Explanation is here...


----------



## Xs1nX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CaptnBB* 
To put it simply. No. They are only there to help hold the backplate when installing.

I dont have 3 pairs of hands and my cases CPU cooler cutout on the mobo tray is not the right size/shape to be able to use that. So I have to wonder how much of a pain in the arse installation will be without the sticky pads.


----------



## whoisron

i been looking at this review and debating to either get a GT 1450 or 1850, I acutally ordered both speeds from newegg they should be coming soon.
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coo...air-h50_7.html

seems like the temp didn't really drop that much past 1500rpm.

any feedback guys?

Also I seen a YT video of some guy and his corsair h50 at 4ghz his fans seemed pretty loud in the video.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xs1nX*


I dont have 3 pairs of hands and my cases CPU cooler cutout on the mobo tray is not the right size/shape to be able to use that. So I have to wonder how much of a pain in the arse installation will be without the sticky pads.


. . . . . uhh > > > > Got (some) Tape? ? ? ?









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Javamaniac

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
Hmm. What is your ambient temp? Also we need to take into consideration, the type of fans you're using, your cases airflow, etc. Just for reference, I changed everything in my BIOS to default/auto using just 2.67GHz w/ HT on. I have 23c ambients. I have 2 GT 1850's as push/pull on the radiator and some decent airflow in my case. With that, I'm idling at around 30c-36c and 100% load with 55c-60c.

Granted, that's just stock, I could definitely lower the vcore on this clock and get the temps lower, but, I just wanted to try and mimic your clock settings and get you a rough idea.

my ambient room temp is about 23C as well. I have the NZXT Tempest Evo case, so there are 6 fans stock. im using push/pull on the h50 radiator like this:

case<-stock fan<-radiator<-h50 fan

my idle is 39-36-39-35 right now. i dont understand this at all.

EDIT: if i do attempt to tighten the screws on the pump i dont have to reapply TIM or anything would i?

and if i took it completely off to reseat it on the i7, would AS5 with the pea method do the trick? and do i have to reapply it in a year or something?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Explanation is here...


Thanks a lot for the link. Like I said, well done man.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xs1nX*


I dont have 3 pairs of hands and my cases CPU cooler cutout on the mobo tray is not the right size/shape to be able to use that. So I have to wonder how much of a pain in the arse installation will be without the sticky pads.


I just installed mine today for the 2nd time so the sticky pads were not there, installed perfectly fine. When you start to tighten it you'll hear all fall into place.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Javamaniac*


my ambient room temp is about 23C as well. I have the NZXT Tempest Evo case, so there are 6 fans stock. im using push/pull on the h50 radiator like this:

case<-stock fan<-radiator<-h50 fan

my idle is 39-36-39-35 right now. i dont understand this at all.

EDIT: if i do attempt to tighten the screws on the pump i dont have to reapply TIM or anything would i?

and if i took it completely off to reseat it on the i7, would AS5 with the pea method do the trick? and do i have to reapply it in a year or something?


Applying TIM is something I don't like to go by what people say. Try your own methods and see how they work. Try the pea method for a day or two and pay close attention to the temps. Then after 2 or 3 days take it apart and try doing a even/thin spread across the CPU and see how that works. Whatever works best for you is what you should use.

To me personally, the even spread method works the best.

Here is my load temps now with the H50 mounted on a Danger Den Torture Rack. 39Âºc at the moment.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xs1nX*


I dont have 3 pairs of hands and my cases CPU cooler cutout on the mobo tray is not the right size/shape to be able to use that. So I have to wonder how much of a pain in the arse installation will be without the sticky pads.


Its really not a problem. You just take off all the stock mounts for normal heatsinks and hold the backplate on while you screw the front piece that holds the h50 onto the cpu, just put the screws in 2 or 3 turns and it should be fine. Then put your motherboard back in.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


. . . . . uhh > > > > Got (some) Tape? ? ? ?









mr-Charles .









.


I would be careful doing that as some tapes glue is conductive.


----------



## CaptnBB

Quote:

I would be careful doing that as some tapes glue is conductive.
+1, Use electrical tape.


----------



## Killhouse

Or masking tape if its temporary, doesent leave a glue-stain


----------



## Killhouse

300 members!


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
300 members!









Thats twice as many as My AMD 720BE club got, if this isnt enough to prove that the H50's an awesome cooler then i dont know what will. Also, you have 50000 more views than my thread has, 314,116. Thats quite a few, all around the world.


----------



## shizdan

Can anybody tell me a little about Push Pull performance with the H50? I just ordered one and dont know too much about its performance with the H50.


----------



## Killhouse

Push/pull makes an exceptional difference with the H50 - adding a fan shroud also gives a good performance boost too.


----------



## shizdan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Push/pull makes an exceptional difference with the H50 - adding a fan shroud also gives a good performance boost too.

Im just looking for something that is not loud yet efficient. Since Im a beginner to the H50 should I push pull straight off or wait and research?


----------



## Killhouse

Just go for it, it's not very complicated. Pick a couple of fans that suit your noise requirements and post back here, we'll let you know if the fans are any good for the purpose


----------



## shizdan

What are the specs of the stock fans?


----------



## Killhouse

1600 RPM, 50 CFM. Thats all we know...


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shizdan* 
Im just looking for something that is not loud yet efficient. Since Im a beginner to the H50 should I push pull straight off or wait and research?

Use 2 Gentle Typhoon AP-15 and be done with it. Add a shroud on the pull fan side, or 1 on each side if you have room.


----------



## DefecTalisman

I got my H50-1 yesterday









Waiting till I have the motherboard out again to do a few mods till I install it.


----------



## sora1607

What's the shroud


----------



## Killhouse

A shroud is an airtight space between the fan and the radiator, essentially giving the airflow more space. It reduces the deadspot from the motor on the fan and allows more of the radiator to be utlised more. A cheap method to create one is to take an old fan and tear out the motor and and fan blades and place it between the fan and the radiator, it works most effectively on the "pull" fan









http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_th..._of_fan_shroud

Example:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/im...ml?id=KmqYbfDL


----------



## WarlordOne

A shroud seals the gap around a fan and radiator forcing more air through the radiator. An automotive shroud is a different animal which acts to protect the blades and funnels air from the tips of the blades normally cast outward back into the radiator. A PC fan's frame functions in this way but is not called a shroud.

A spacer creates a gap between a fan and a radiator (or heatsink) that allows air to flow through the fins of the radiator that would normally be blocked by the fan's large center hub (dead spot).

The example given above is both a spacer and a shroud.


----------



## SonyDSLR

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/picture.php?albumid=62&pictureid=368[/IMG]]

Not finish yet want to test this system out to see what people been talking about so far the H50 have did a nice job for the price temp before the H50 idle was 45c and after the H50 a cool 32C stress with Prime95 a cool 50c 955 Phenom II at 1.5V OC 3.8Ghz


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


300 members!










I was member # 300
















As far as using fans for the H50, Gentle Typhoons FTW!


----------



## killerhz

the thread is too massive and i can't find any temp results. i am looking to see temps from anyone that has an i7 920 clocked @ 4ghz or higher. can anyone post please?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killerhz*


the thread is too massive and i can't find any temp results. i am looking to see temps from anyone that has an i7 920 clocked @ 4ghz or higher. can anyone post please?


You might also want to look here if you haven't already. It has temps and cooling method. Good Luck. I have an i7 at 4.1 GHz ATM, but it's not cooled under a H50.

Click Here


----------



## LioN

I have my H50 running with the Tricools that came with my P182. The setup goes Fan<---Rad<---Fan. I'm thinking of hacking up an old 25mm fan to use as a shroud. Would I see the best results doing Fan<---Shroud<---Rad<---Fan or Fan<---Rad<---Shroud<---Fan?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LioN*


Fan<---Shroud<---Rad<---Fan


A shroud on the pull side has proven to give best effects









EDIT:
If you use the "search this thread" tool then you come up with a bunch of example for an i7 920. Here's what I found:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8614587


----------



## killerhz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


You might also want to look here if you haven't already. It has temps and cooling method. Good Luck. I have an i7 at 4.1 GHz ATM, but it's not cooled under a H50.

Click Here


nice thread but want to know if it's worth the investment for a H50 over my cooler.


----------



## Killhouse

The short version is no, unless you crave the ability to see your motherboard









The Mega and H50 perform VERY similarly. From my outlook on things the Mega proves slightly better at higher temperatures (ie Intel chips) and the H50 is more suited to lower temperatures.









See previous post for a link to i7 920 temperatures.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *whoisron*


i been looking at this review and debating to either get a GT 1450 or 1850, I acutally ordered both speeds from newegg they should be coming soon.
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coo...air-h50_7.html

seems like the temp didn't really drop that much past 1500rpm.

any feedback guys?

Also I seen a YT video of some guy and his corsair h50 at 4ghz his fans seemed pretty loud in the video.










so very very wrong, he musta had crappy fans







i have 2000RPM R4's in push/pull exhaust on my H50, all i really hear is air moving... no audible fan noise and if you check my system i'm at 4GHZ clock (no doubt a different cpu though)


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killerhz*


nice thread but want to know if it's worth the investment for a H50 over my cooler.


Dude, on i7's I think the best way you can go is MegaShadow or the new monster Noctua cooler. Unless you got some cash for a expensive high end water setup, I say stick with your cooler.


----------



## killerhz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


The short version is no, unless you crave the ability to see your motherboard









The Mega and H50 perform VERY similarly. From my outlook on things the Mega proves slightly better at higher temperatures (ie Intel chips) and the H50 is more suited to lower temperatures.








*
See previous post for a link to i7 920 temperatures.*


thanks but it just brings me here to this page. nothing what i am looking for. i know how to use the search but mostly i see are pic of the rigs. not what i am looking for. by reading your responses i can see that you don't want to help me so don't feel like you have to.

i just want to see results from users with similar set-ups/CPU.

*EDIT*

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Dude, on i7's I think the best way you can go is MegaShadow or the new monster Noctua cooler. Unless you got some cash for a expensive high end water setup, I say stick with your cooler.


dude; i would but have no idea. i was looking at some stuff but got lost. i will go troll over in the other watercooling threads to get me some help. looks like your right about best way to go is expensive watercooling. +1 got you Chicken


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *killerhz* 
thanks but it just brings me here to this page. nothing what i am looking for. i know how to use the search but mostly i see are pic of the rigs. not what i am looking for. by reading your responses i can see that you don't want to help me so don't feel like you have to.

i just want to see results from users with similar set-ups/CPU.

*EDIT*

dude; i would but have no idea. i was looking at some stuff but got lost. i will go troll over in the other watercooling threads to get me some help. looks like your right about best way to go is expensive watercooling. +1 got you Chicken

I had a HW Labs GTX480, D5 non vario, ek 150 res and apogee gtz water block. The setup was great, but I got rid of it because I was in need of some money and I bought the Megashadow. Let's just say that on lower clocks the water setup did better, but at benching clocks 4.6-4.7GHz, the Mega actually cools about 10Âºc better. Maybe I needed more water flow or something, but the Mega is to me hands down my favorite cooler. My i7 is crunching away for about a week already at 100%. 4.1GHz @ 1.233v. Max temp in the day with ambients of about 25-26Âºc is 65 hottest core, 59Âºc coolest core. at night when things get a bit cooler max temp is 58-59Âºc. Because of the Megashadow I just can't justify the cost of expensive water cooling anymore. Let's keep this thread on topic. IF you want more info and details feel free to PM me









EDIT: Here is a link to my project log over at TPU. Some components changed, but the main ones like rad/pump/block stayed the same.

Log


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *killerhz* 
thanks but it just brings me here to this page. nothing what i am looking for. i know how to use the search but mostly i see are pic of the rigs. not what i am looking for. by reading your responses i can see that you don't want to help me so don't feel like you have to.

i just want to see results from users with similar set-ups/CPU.

I dont know what gave you that impression







You would have found a few people who have reported their temperatures if you had used that search tool, and I went to the effort to look for you - sorry my link didnt work.

Now as for your question - I gave you a direct and honest answer, it is not worth the investment over a Mega.

EDIT: My link did work, it took you to this post. I quote:

Quote:

Setup consists of dual Panaflo FBA12G12U1BX Fans and a 25mm Shroud on the pull fan in the back. With the fans at 7 V the cooling is awesome and the setup is very quiet- and I can turn it up to keep the temps under 60c load with my I7 920 @ 3.8 GHZ 1.2V.

Fans Pull < Shroud - RAD - < Fan Push
Is that not exactly what you asked for? To be really nit-picky there is even a link on the front page to the Mega vs H50 testing thread, written by Kyleax1.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
I had a HW Labs GTX480, D5 non vario, ek 150 res and apogee gtz water block. The setup was great, but I got rid of it because I was in need of some money and I bought the Megashadow. Let's just say that on lower clocks the water setup did better, but at benching clocks 4.6-4.7GHz, the Mega actually cools about 10Âºc better. Maybe I needed more water flow or something, but the Mega is to me hands down my favorite cooler. My i7 is crunching away for about a week already at 100%. 4.1GHz @ 1.233v. Max temp in the day with ambients of about 25-26Âºc is 65 hottest core, 59Âºc coolest core. at night when things get a bit cooler max temp is 58-59Âºc. Because of the Megashadow I just can't justify the cost of expensive water cooling anymore. Let's keep this thread on topic. IF you want more info and details feel free to PM me









EDIT: Here is a link to my project log over at TPU. Some components changed, but the main ones like rad/pump/block stayed the same.

Log

chicken your a bad boy going off topic,dont let me see it again


----------



## killerhz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
I had a HW Labs GTX480, D5 non vario, ek 150 res and apogee gtz water block. The setup was great, but I got rid of it because I was in need of some money and I bought the Megashadow. Let's just say that on lower clocks the water setup did better, but at benching clocks 4.6-4.7GHz, the Mega actually cools about 10Âºc better. Maybe I needed more water flow or something, but the Mega is to me hands down my favorite cooler. My i7 is crunching away for about a week already at 100%. 4.1GHz @ 1.233v. Max temp in the day with ambients of about 25-26Âºc is 65 hottest core, 59Âºc coolest core. at night when things get a bit cooler max temp is 58-59Âºc. Because of the Megashadow I just can't justify the cost of expensive water cooling anymore. Let's keep this thread on topic. IF you want more info and details feel free to PM me









EDIT: Here is a link to my project log over at TPU. Some components changed, but the main ones like rad/pump/block stayed the same.

Log

+1 again. yes didn't mean to take it off topic. wanted to really see similar set-ups as mine using the H50. I will PM soon as I do have quite a few questions.

Sorry to the rest of you. i didn't mean to steal thread. microcenter down the street has this cooler for the cheap and wanted to get some ideas from the owners of.

khz


----------



## Arexniba

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


not one stick at a time, just one set at a time. G.Skill sticks first, then the patriots.


Ok, I just put my G.Skill sticks in first. I've re-read a link on the method of overclocking the RAM and the cpu. If I understood somewhat the technique, basically whatever the CPU core speed is on the FSB should match the DRAM frequency right?
I.e. I currently have the CPU at 3501.2MHz, and my G.Skill DRAM frequency is 389.0MHz. I dunno...I'm confused.









I have the DRAM fsb set to Auto, and it has it at a 1:1 ratio.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Its normally not so bad when the sticks are exactly the same but having two sticks of 1 gb and two of 2gb is not the best thing to do, although Should work just fine. What are the stock speeds voltages and timings of each stick?


My G.Skill sticks are:
(Here's a picture instead):


















***By the way, the problem still persists...









**Update:
Do you guys think it can possibly be my new psu? I've been doing a little research on the Coolmax psu's and I see a huge mixture of reviews. 
Should I downgrade back to my Enermax 500w?


----------



## PC Gamer

Hey guys I was wondering if I only use 1 fan exhaust would I set it up with the exhaust in front of the rad or behind of it?


----------



## sintricate

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PC Gamer*


Hey guys I was wondering if I only use 1 fan exhaust would I set it up with the exhaust in front of the rad or behind of it?


I'd put the fan in front of the rad.

case>rad>fan

That is if you can mount it that way.


----------



## Xs1nX

Guys,

I think ive messed up and overtightened the mounting screws.

All four bushings on my mounting plate are now sticking up at one corner(the corner with the small tab that clips the bushing into the retention bracket) as in they are not flat to the metal mounting plate. And the screw head is somewhat "embedded" or whatever into the plastic bushing.

What should I do ? .. keep imn mind if i remove the H50 i have no thermal compound nor anything to clean it to replace it.

Im totaly screwed here..


----------



## whoisron

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evtron*


Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15's

I'm really pleased with them.

I did 15 passes of IBT max at 4Ghz HT on @ 1.3v before fine tuning my vcore and the highest I ever saw was 73c and that was like twice it hit it - was mostly 71-72c the whole hour+.

I run 2x Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15's in push/pull exhaust in my Corsair 800D. I have the push/pull config mounted exhausting vertically out the top sandwiched between 2 120mm sharkoon silent eagle SE's also exhausting out the top. I flipped the rear fan into intake, installed a 120mm bay cooler as intake, and have a 140mm fan at the bottom for intake.


do you keep your GT-15's on full 12v max RPM? or do you have it controlled? I know GT 15's say db 28, but usually in real world testing the db rating jumps even higher right? at idle what would you say is the loudest most noticable fan / sound on your computer?

Thanks


----------



## whoisron

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Use 2 Gentle Typhoon AP-15 and be done with it. Add a shroud on the pull fan side, or 1 on each side if you have room.


are shrouds used to maximize airflow or to lessen the sound? can you link me to some good shrouds please? thanks


----------



## PC Gamer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sintricate*


I'd put the fan in front of the rad.

case>rad>fan

That is if you can mount it that way.


Yeah I currently have a push pull exhaust mounted in the rear 120mm fan slot, the problem is I'm not really seeing any great temps becaue I have it set as exhaust and my vapor x dumps hot air into the case. When I set it to intake it makes a loud whiny noise against the metal of the case so exhaust is really my only option. I'm thinking the 2nd doesn't really help at all because it's blowing the 4890s hot air into the rad. Proof would be I'm running a stock clocked amd 940 on push pull and right now I'm getting a 38c temp read. I think that was the same temp when I only had 1 fan.


----------



## looser101

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *whoisron*   do you keep your GT-15's on full 12v max RPM? or do you have it controlled? I know GT 15's say db 28, but usually in real world testing the db rating jumps even higher right? at idle what would you say is the loudest most noticable fan / sound on your computer?

Thanks  
   
 YouTube- GentleTyphoonAP15  



 
 
Many more here.

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *whoisron*   are shrouds used to maximize airflow or to lessen the sound? can you link me to some good shrouds please? thanks  
It helps both. You can make a shroud from an old 120mm case fan by ripping out the inner guts. If I had a choice I would buy this one. Just make sure it will fit before you order.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xs1nX*


Guys,

I think ive messed up and overtightened the mounting screws.

All four bushings on my mounting plate are now sticking up at one corner(the corner with the small tab that clips the bushing into the retention bracket) as in they are not flat to the metal mounting plate. And the screw head is somewhat "embedded" or whatever into the plastic bushing.

What should I do ? .. keep imn mind if i remove the H50 i have no thermal compound nor anything to clean it to replace it.

Im totaly screwed here..


Do you not know that Tractor engine tight and computer tight are two different things? You dont need anywhere near the pressure that would embed the screw into the plastic things.

Three things, Pictures and you should just be able to losen the screws, also theres a possibillity that your motherboard wont work.


----------



## Penryn

I have my H50 as intake fan > rad > fan. I just mounted the rad on the fan the H50 comes with on the case and then used the original case exhaust fan, flipped it around to pull heat off the rad. Works REALLY well for keeping my CPU at about 35C idle 60C max load usually.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xs1nX*


Guys,

I think ive messed up and overtightened the mounting screws.

All four bushings on my mounting plate are now sticking up at one corner(the corner with the small tab that clips the bushing into the retention bracket) as in they are not flat to the metal mounting plate. And the screw head is somewhat "embedded" or whatever into the plastic bushing.

What should I do ? .. keep imn mind if i remove the H50 i have no thermal compound nor anything to clean it to replace it.

Im totaly screwed here..


. . . yes, i believe you have tighten'd them a bit too far; seem's wierd that the 
adapters popp'd out a bit, but your going to need to loosen up and just pull back 
the "Ring" with the adapter's on each corner and see IF you can re-insert them. 
You shouldn't need to tighten'd each corner down for THAT much pressure= 
"...the screw head is somewhat "embedded" or whatever into the plastic bushing."
When i had that initial bracket for my H50, i only tighen'd each screw by use 
of just two finger's on the screw-driver and use'd those two finger's for "torque" 
feel of tightness>>>just after each one was set and the "snug" setting...
....and that pretty much was like 1/2 to _*almost*_ 1 complete turn from the 
"snug" setting's.
...BUT, now i have  >>> THIS <<<  for my (aftermarket=NEWer) H50 bracket holdown. . . .
{note: this has a thick "metal" back_base" plate, not plastic }
_...and IF no one else has them in stock to purchase, these *ARE* the one's you *can* get straight from Corsair by only paying the $5.00 shipping fee..._

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## killerhz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Penryn*


I have my H50 as intake fan > rad > fan. I just mounted the rad on the fan the H50 comes with on the case and then used the original case exhaust fan, flipped it around to pull heat off the rad. Works REALLY well for keeping my *CPU at about 35C idle 60C max load usually*.


is that the overclocked 4.2 920 in your sig? that would be some nice temps.


----------



## Xs1nX

Picture of the rear to show how much one of the screws is screwed in. Its a crappy pic but its all I can do.

http://picpaste.com/h50.jpg


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xs1nX* 
Picture of the rear to show how much one of the screws is screwed in. Its a crappy pic but its all I can do.

http://picpaste.com/h50.jpg


...the picture is NOT clear enough, BUT it look's like you have the thread'd insert
in the backplate > _*backwards*_ < . . .







the tube part of that threaded insert *SHOULD*
be press'd thru the backplate towards the mthrbrd for each corner......like i stated,
can't REALLY tell cuz of the pic is NOT clear enough & i might be wrong of looking at it...

{ in the picture of the aftermarket mount i show'd in the previous post,
the backplate is showing how the insert's _*should protrude thru the
back plate,*_ sticking up thru top going towards the mthrbrd...}

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Xs1nX

The brushings are completely messed up it looks like









Im not so concerned about buggering the brushing as i am with my CPU and motherboard being damaged. I dont want to add memory and video card to the motherboard in case something is broken and it in turn damages them to. I have no other coolers to use nor CPUs to use for testing.

My only option now seems to be to contact the retailer i bought the stuff from and enquire as to the process of using the accidental installation damage insurance i got when i bought the components for the build, although I have no idea how this will work in my situation as i have one thing definatly broken(H50) and two things maybe broken with no way to test them here(cpu)/mobo)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


. . . yes, i believe you have tighten'd them a bit too far; seem's wierd that the 
adapters popp'd out a bit, but your going to need to loosen up and just pull back 
the "Ring" with the adapter's on each corner and see IF you can re-insert them. 
You shouldn't need to tighten'd each corner down for THAT much pressure= 
"...the screw head is somewhat "embedded" or whatever into the plastic bushing."
When i had that initial bracket for my H50, i only tighen'd each screw by use 
of just two finger's on the screw-driver and use'd those two finger's for "torque" 
feel of tightness>>>just after each one was set and the "snug" setting...
....and that pretty much was like 1/2 to _*almost*_ 1 complete turn from the 
"snug" setting's.
...BUT, now i have  >>> THIS <<<  for my (aftermarket=NEWer) H50 bracket holdown. . . .
{note: this has a thick "metal" back_base" plate, not plastic }
_...and IF no one else has them in stock to purchase, these *ARE* the one's you *can* get straight from Corsair by only paying the $5.00 shipping fee..._

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Xs1nX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


...the picture is NOT clear enough, BUT it look's like you have the thread'd insert 
in the backplate > _*backwards*_ < . . .







the tube part of that threaded insert *SHOULD* 
be press'd thru the backplate towards the mthrbrd for each corner......like i stated, 
can't REALLY tell cuz of the pic is NOT clear enough & i might be wrong of looking at it...

mr-Charles .









.


The backplate is set up correctly.. the metal you see in that pic sticking out is the screw.


----------



## mr-Charles

...bummer, as you have stated in the previous posting's....







man, just hope 
ya didn't damage anything else than just those corner adapter piece's...
sorry if we couldn't get it sort'd & fix'd ez for here.....

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Wolfeshaman

so quick questions. what would be some decently cheap fans to get for this cooler? currently i have a Cm590 case with 5+rear fan installed. most of which are 85 CFm could i just use those for this?


----------



## Garanthor

I've been very late in posting some pics but here they finally are. To summarize:
I used two broken fans for the shrouds (cut out the fans). Going from front to back I have fan-shroud-rad-shroud-fan. The shrouds are held onto the rad via the normal screws and the fans are held to the shrouds with duct tape. I know that seems to be a bit of a ghetto mod but it actually works very well. I have duct tape around the whole thing and it seals the tunnel nicely. Holding the whole thing up, centered and to the back of the open 5 1/2 inch bays, I first drilled two small holes through the openings at the back of the drive bays and into each shroud. I then used brass wood screws to screw through the side openings and into the shrouds. Note that I only used two screws per shroud and only on the back side. The whole thing is on there very securely. The front fan is about 1 to 1.5 inches from the front grill. I can feel it sucking air in from the front grill so all is well.


----------



## Garanthor

Here are some more pics:


----------



## Clay333

I installed a Ultra Kaze 3k on my H50 last night and it dropped load temps by 8c!!!! I couldn't believe it! It is pretty loud at full speed so I changed some settings in speed fan and running at 50% until my chip hits 42C it cools runs quieter than the Corsair fan at full speed. I have it set up where once it hits 42C the fan goes to 75% and above 60C it runs at 100%. I love how it sounds with these settings it almost reminds me of a jet revving up as it takes off, but yet still runs very quiet 90% of the time. The only time it ever hits 100% is when I run Intel Burn Test. I think EVERYONE should consider this upgrade!


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Arexniba* 
Ok, I just put my G.Skill sticks in first. I've re-read a link on the method of overclocking the RAM and the cpu. If I understood somewhat the technique, basically whatever the CPU core speed is on the FSB should match the DRAM frequency right?
I.e. I currently have the CPU at 3501.2MHz, and my G.Skill DRAM frequency is 389.0MHz. I dunno...I'm confused.









I have the DRAM fsb set to Auto, and it has it at a 1:1 ratio.

My G.Skill sticks are:
(Here's a picture instead):


















***By the way, the problem still persists...









**Update:
Do you guys think it can possibly be my new psu? I've been doing a little research on the Coolmax psu's and I see a huge mixture of reviews.
Should I downgrade back to my Enermax 500w?

Bro I would RMA the PSU or something. You have another PSU to try and make sure it was that?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *killerhz* 
+1 again. yes didn't mean to take it off topic. wanted to really see similar set-ups as mine using the H50. I will PM soon as I do have quite a few questions.

Sorry to the rest of you. i didn't mean to steal thread. microcenter down the street has this cooler for the cheap and wanted to get some ideas from the owners of.

khz

PM me when you are ready bro


----------



## Wolfeshaman

Going to best buy tonight to pick this beast up. will post before and after temps with this thing, only question i have is are there screws enough to be able to mount two fans to either side of it? it would be fan>rad>fan exhaust. let me know.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wolfeshaman* 
Going to best buy tonight to pick this beast up. will post before and after temps with this thing, only question i have is are there screws enough to be able to mount two fans to either side of it? it would be fan>rad>fan exhaust. let me know.

Just use two of the four on one side, and the other two on the other in criss cross pattern. You can go to home depot and by some 6/32 threaded screws if you want to use four on each side.


----------



## Javamaniac

well i just overclocked to 3.81ghz...

ran linx 10 times without error...

my temps are here:









do they look safe? and is running linx 10 times enough to tell if im stable?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Javamaniac*


well i just overclocked to 3.81ghz...

ran linx 10 times without error...

my temps are here:









do they look safe? and is running linx 10 times enough to tell if im stable?


I think short Linx runs are more than enough. You might want to run it for about twice as that. 2hours or so.

THe temps are a bit over my safe max which is 80Âºc. what fan configuratino you using?


----------



## Javamaniac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


I think short Linx runs are more than enough. You might want to run it for about twice as that. 2hours or so.

THe temps are a bit over my safe max which is 80Âºc. what fan configuratino you using?


h50 with push/pull as exhaust... im a little unhappy about these temps, i thought theyd be less.. my idle temps are between 38-42C...


----------



## Jocelyn84

What kind of fans are you using Javamaniac?


----------



## Javamaniac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84*


What kind of fans are you using Javamaniac?


stock NZXT against the case, then radiator, then the fan that came with the h50...


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Javamaniac*


stock NZXT against the case, then radiator, then the fan that came with the h50...


Yeah I know the stock NZXT has 9 blades, but I have no idea what its static pressure is.
As for the H50 fan, its kinda meh. That _could_ have something to do with your temps.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84* 
Yeah I know the stock NZXT has 9 blades, but I have no idea what its static pressure is.
As for the H50 fan, its kinda meh. That _could_ have something to do with your temps.

Maybe it was the way he mounted it/thermal paste.

If he hasn't put enough pressure on the H50 w/ stock paste, then he should try putting some more pressure, since they apply it a little bit too generously. If he used his own thermal paste, he should apply a pea/rice sized dot in the middle and smoosh it down with the H50's pressure to ensure no bubbles.


----------



## Javamaniac

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84* 
Yeah I know the stock NZXT has 9 blades, but I have no idea what its static pressure is.
As for the H50 fan, its kinda meh. That _could_ have something to do with your temps.

but am i SAFE keeping my overclock how it is? or should i just go back to stock and not worry about doing this... im so new to it all i just dont wanna mess anything up...


----------



## Javamaniac

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Maybe it was the way he mounted it/thermal paste.

If he hasn't put enough pressure on the H50 w/ stock paste, then he should try putting some more pressure, since they apply it a little bit too generously. If he used his own thermal paste, he should apply a pea/rice sized dot in the middle and smoosh it down with the H50's pressure to ensure no bubbles.

i was wondering about that, so maybe later i will put a little bit more pressure on it without removing it... if that doesnt help, i might just clean it all and apply AS5... still unsure...


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Javamaniac* 
but am i SAFE keeping my overclock how it is? or should i just go back to stock and not worry about doing this... im so new to it all i just dont wanna mess anything up...

What your Vcore and is HT on?


----------



## Javamaniac

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jocelyn84* 
i guess my first question would be what your vcore is?

1.275


----------



## Xs1nX

Update

Have taken the H50 off of the CPU to check for physical damage to CPU or the PCB around the socket area and to the extent that I can the socket itself(those contacts/pins are TINY and impossible to check) I cant see anything that looks broken at this stage. However as suspected i totally "did a number" on the plastic brushings, they are not in the best of shape.. at all.

If I cant see any damage to the CPU/CPU Socket Area what are the chances of it being damaged ?

If I was to obtain replacement bushings,cleaned off the TIM and redid that to and then refitted the H50 and attempted to test, would i run the risk of damaging memory/video card if fitted to a CPU/Mobo combo that was damaged ?

I am not in the habit of breaking stuff or being careless. I am usually a very careful person .. almost obsessively so at times. I think what went wrong was mostly down to the false assumption on my part that the H50 like all the CPU coolers I have fitted in the past had a design in place to make overtighting/overpressureing next to impossible (Scythe for instance as i recall has/had such a design) I just assumed that I could not screw up. I was wrong.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Javamaniac* 
1.275

I would back down your overclock just a tad bit as 82Âºc to me is a bit high. However, you can try re applying new TIM, and loosening/tightening the block.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Javamaniac* 
but am i SAFE keeping my overclock how it is? or should i just go back to stock and not worry about doing this... im so new to it all i just dont wanna mess anything up...

Okay, so it looks like you're running at 4.0GHz w/ HT on and getting ~80c under max load. That's not bad, but it's not that great either. The problem size and memory you're using is putting the cpu under heavy stress, I typically do a problem size of 25854, similar to yours and my temps @ 4GHz w/ HT on 20 runs puts me around 67c-73c, but, I've also dialed in my core voltage, down to 1.21v. I noticed you said you're running yours at 1.275v. I'm willing to bet that if you can dial in your voltages a little better (something closer to the 1.21-1.23 range, that will help drop your temps a good 5c or more. In comparison, I'm running better fans and willing to bet if you replaced your fans with better ones, you'll be able to drop another 5c or more, bringing down to about ~70c (which is about where you should try to be) rather than the ~80c that you're at now.

Long story short, the temps seem about right for the type of fans you're using and the amount of voltage you're pumping through it. I don't think you need to re-seat your pump at all. By the way, what is your ambient temperature at? You also have to remember you have HT enabled, so that will add about 8-10c. As far as being safe, I think you're fine to be quite honest. I personally don't like going above 85c with this chip when it is 100% fully stressed. Also remember, even though it shows 80c, for your day-to-day operation, it's running more like ~45-55c 24/7. (Unless you do alot of encoding or folding) heheh


----------



## pcnuttie

Guys i got a question, i saw this at best buy and after reading and following this thread for days makes me wanna try this method so i can be ready when the warm weather comes, I kinda hope i can see a little lower temps compared to my after market cooler. The fan that comes with it.. i wonder since i have a antec 1200, should i make it as a exhaust on both rads or intake only in the front or?.. I wanna make sure heat escapes out of my tower. You know we have 2 rear fans on the 1200, could i use that fan also for the rad and the current fan that comes with the H50, mount it in the back too? so both can be intake on front and exhaust in back? Err what should i do? Is the stock thermal on that ok compared to using artic silver 5? Advice!


----------



## Clay333

Keep stock thermal compound better than almost anything (except MX-3). Leave the 1200 exactly how it is and mount your rad to the bottom rear case fan and put the Corsiar fan on the opposite side of the rad for push/pull. If you don't leave the original rear bottom fan you can't use the top on either cuz the top part of the rad will block it. Your H50 will be set as exhaust, but don't sweat what Corsair says about using it as intake. With the amount of airflow in a 1200 I get the EXACT same temps as exhaust or intake.

Tip- pick up 4 6-32 x 1 1/4" screws and washers. You will need them for the back fan.

Check out pic, I know it's really bad quality, I took it with my phone.


----------



## Penryn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killerhz*


is that the overclocked 4.2 920 in your sig? that would be some nice temps.


Yep, it's the 930. at 4.61 I was then hitting 75-80C which I wasn't comfortable with since I had a 1.525 vcore, so thr 4.2 is working out well.

Here's some pics, sorry theyre dark, I'll take more during the day.


----------



## yawa

Eh my Prime95 numbers sit around 55-58C with a modest 3.8ghz overclock. For some reason I figured it would be lower.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Penryn*


Yep, it's the 930. at 4.61 I was then hitting 75-80C which I wasn't comfortable with since I had a 1.525 vcore, so thr 4.2 is working out well.

Here's some pics, sorry theyre dark, I'll take more during the day.



















*cough* cable management needs work *cough*


----------



## Killhouse

I was just thinking that


----------



## Penryn

I know, just haven't felt like doing it yet... and all my cables are hidden with the side panel on so I could care less.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


I was just thinking that










great minds think alike killhouse.....


----------



## Killhouse

Yeah but PCSarge you still need to sleeve those cables









Haha, ill stop nitpicking - have you seen those premade sleeved extensions?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Penryn*


I know, just haven't felt like doing it yet... and all my cables are hidden with the side panel on so I could care less.


bad cable management = decreased airflow and increased temps, go buy some cable ties and do it boy


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Yeah but PCSarge you still need to sleeve those cables









Haha, ill stop nitpicking - have you seen those premade sleeved extensions?


 cant sleeve them thier "flexcable" they have high flexability but thier all 1 solid piece

besides i switched to a modular, no more clutter xD and i'm not one who would wanna sit for hours and sleeve cables


----------



## Killhouse

Look for these things at your favourite retailer.
They are made by NZXT, pretty cool lazy way to do it - they just extend your current one where you see it.
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/pimg/CB-000-NX_400.jpg


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Look for these things at your favourite retailer.
They are made by NZXT, pretty cool lazy way to do it - they just extend your current one where you see it.
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/pimg/CB-000-NX_400.jpg


on a lighter note, i believe my thermal paste has finally cured....i turned on my pc and did a linpack for an hour, my full load temps were down 7C from a few days ago


----------



## Killhouse

Thats awesome, I want to switch my fan around to pull but I dont have the right screws and I'm not sure the tubes will stretch properly... hmmm.

EDIT: hows the folding going?


----------



## AMelvin

I installed mine on a new build with the paste that was included with the cooler. Is there something better I should have used? CPU runs at 25C most of the time while I'm working.


----------



## Killhouse

The stock thermal paste is actually really good, it's not worth replacing until you need to reseat the cooler - if you ever do









Nice purchase, make sure you add yourself to the list!


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*









Thats awesome, I want to switch my fan around to pull but I dont have the right screws and I'm not sure the tubes will stretch properly... hmmm.

EDIT: hows the folding going?


up to a total fold of 10434 pts and climbing, i've been letting it run while i'm at work during the day

EDIT: forgot how to check who gave me rep lmao


----------



## rickyman0319

hi. i want to know if this is a good fan (Coolermaster A12025-12CB-3BN-F1 ) for PII x2 550. I am just want to tell you that i want to unlock the core and maybe overclocked. also i want to put one fan each side of the radiator.


----------



## Xs1nX

Could do with some feedback on these questions ASAP as ill be needing to make some phone calls on monday to try and sort this mess out ...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xs1nX* 
If I cant see any damage to the CPU/CPU Socket Area what are the chances of it being damaged ?

If I was to obtain replacement bushings,cleaned off the TIM and redid that to and then refitted the H50 and attempted to test, would i run the risk of damaging memory/video card if fitted to a CPU/Mobo combo that was damaged ?


----------



## yawa

K guys I have a thermaltake element S, the H50 and three fans to work with. Now on my modest overclock, as stated a page ago I get around 55-58 at the beginning of a prime burn but then wind up at about 62C an hour in. This is as push/pull intake. I know this thing can do better and I feel like I'm missing something.

The three fans are a multi switch antec, an incredibly powerful sycthe, and the stock fan. How would you set it up? With what fans where? The Sycthe is the strongest as far as static pressure goes btw.

I idle at 35C btw at 3.8 ghz with a 2600 NB for those who don't want to go back a page.

I'm stumped for ideas. So throw some at me I need something to occupy my mind.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xs1nX* 
Could do with some feedback on these questions ASAP as ill be needing to make some phone calls on monday to try and sort this mess out ...

the answer is, unless you see obvious damage (cracking, peices missing where contacts are, etc) then it should be fine, when you can boot it up to test (even if its with your stock fan for 5 minutes) make sure it does its POST with no concurrent errors it shouldnt really damage your RAM, i remeber accidentally starting my old pc with a damaged mobo, it had new ram and a new video card in it and neither got damaged and i'm talking it did POST but gave me some kind of concurrent FSB error ( dont know exactly what anymore, this as about 5 yrs ago)


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *yawa* 
Eh my Prime95 numbers sit around 55-58C with a modest 3.8ghz overclock. For some reason I figured it would be lower.

That is waaay to high for 3.8 ghz. Something is wrong!! I sit at 27 idle and 44 after 3 hours Prime 95 blended when I'm at 3.8 ghz with 1.375 volts. At 4.017 ghz and 1.5 volts I sit at 30 idle and max 53 C.


----------



## yawa

Exactly hence why I am asking for help here coming to airflow, seating, the whole nine yards. I"m using MX 3 btw.

I am your instrument of cooling tonight folks, give me suggestions and I will try them.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *yawa* 
K guys I have a thermaltake element S, the H50 and three fans to work with. Now on my modest overclock, as stated a page ago I get around 55-58 at the beginning of a prime burn but then wind up at about 62C an hour in. This is as push/pull intake. I know this thing can do better and I feel like I'm missing something.

The three fans are a multi switch antec, an incredibly powerful sycthe, and the stock fan. How would you set it up? With what fans where? The Sycthe is the strongest as far as static pressure goes btw.

I idle at 35C btw at 3.8 ghz with a 2600 NB for those who don't want to go back a page.

I'm stumped for ideas. So throw some at me I need something to occupy my mind.

Ok, to sum up what many have said here is the checklist:

Make sure all fan control is diabled in Bios so fans are at 100% (including the pump)
Set this as an exhaust with push pull (shrouds would be nice but are not necessary for now)
Make sure H50 bracket is fully seated on retention ring and that it is snugged down
If above fails try removing side cover and see if that helps (could be air flow issue if temps drop dramatically)
Check pump rpm in Bios...should be at approx 1400 rpm.
If all this fails to lower temps then you have a bad unit...RMA it.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *yawa* 
Exactly hence why I am asking for help here coming to airflow, seating, the whole nine yards. I"m using MX 3 btw.

I am your instrument of cooling tonight folks, give me suggestions and I will try them.

By the way...max operating temp of the 965 C3 is 61 C. You will fry it if you keeping running up to 63 C!!


----------



## yawa

Which is why I shut her down. er on prime btw. Lucikly it stays safe for awhile in prime it takes an hour for her to get to 60 but she does and keeps getting there.

The RPM in bios is set to 100 percent for everything. I knwo it's not that. I can tell she's cooling. I'm thinking I have an airflow issue, or a seating issue, or both. I just want to know you guys do it.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *yawa* 
Which is why I shut her down. er on prime btw. Lucikly it stays safe for awhile in prime it takes an hour for her to get to 60 but she does and keeps getting there.

The RPM in bios is set to 100 percent for everything. I knwo it's not that. I can tell she's cooling. I'm thinking I have an airflow issue, or a seating issue, or both. I just want to know you guys do it.

If carefully checked everything on the list I gave you then as I said RMA the unit....it's faulty.


----------



## Xs1nX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


the answer is, unless you see obvious damage (cracking, peices missing where contacts are, etc) then it should be fine, when you can boot it up to test (even if its with your stock fan for 5 minutes) make sure it does its POST with no concurrent errors it shouldnt really damage your RAM, i remeber accidentally starting my old pc with a damaged mobo, it had new ram and a new video card in it and neither got damaged and i'm talking it did POST but gave me some kind of concurrent FSB error ( dont know exactly what anymore, this as about 5 yrs ago)


Cant fit the stock cooler as im all out of ArctiClean(or anything else that will do the job) to get rid of the TIM on the CPU from haveing the H50 on there.

The time-scale(48 hours after the incident) to report any claim i can make on the installation damage insurance i purchased along with the components for this build is also an issue as I have no way of reapplying the cooler nor cleaning to apply the stock I cant test at this time the CPU/Mobo to see if it is indeed broken. But that i guess is something ill have to talk to the retailer about and ant something anyone here can help with.

If it was not so damn depressing it would be irony or something that the first time i ever break something during a build its something as potently serious as this.


----------



## Penryn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


bad cable management = decreased airflow and increased temps, go buy some cable ties and do it boy

















Hehe I have cable ties and everything, just haven't done it because the week I put everything together I swapped out at least the whole system 2-3 times. Got burnt out, but it is coming soon. And my temps aren't AWFUL but I definately wanna do it before summer, this 25C ambient wont last forever.


----------



## shizdan

Just wondering if anybody has any experience with the Cooler Master R4 fans and the H50?


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shizdan* 
Just wondering if anybody has any experience with the Cooler Master R4 fans and the H50?

They work very well.


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shizdan* 
Just wondering if anybody has any experience with the Cooler Master R4 fans and the H50?

Yup they work awesome on the rad. But they work better with a fan shroud. It quiets them down.


----------



## shizdan

I'd like to use a shroud I just dont think it will fit in my case since all my 5.25 drive bays are take up by a HDD cage...


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shizdan* 
I'd like to use a shroud I just dont think it will fit in my case since all my 5.25 drive bays are take up by a HDD cage...

If you can fit at least one, then put it on the pull fan.


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Clay333* 
Keep stock thermal compound better than almost anything (except MX-3). Leave the 1200 exactly how it is and mount your rad to the bottom rear case fan and put the Corsiar fan on the opposite side of the rad for push/pull. If you don't leave the original rear bottom fan you can't use the top on either cuz the top part of the rad will block it. Your H50 will be set as exhaust, but don't sweat what Corsair says about using it as intake. With the amount of airflow in a 1200 I get the EXACT same temps as exhaust or intake.

Tip- pick up 4 6-32 x 1 1/4" screws and washers. You will need them for the back fan.

Check out pic, I know it's really bad quality, I took it with my phone.


Thanks for the tip on the screws. Dude why are you using your rad upside down? Shouldn't the tubes be flowing down? Or it doesn't matter?


----------



## Arexniba

I figured out the problem, it was my psu. I guess the reviews are true, Coolmax is just a unreliable company to get PSU's from.
No wonder Frys was selling a 600w at $35.00


----------



## SonyDSLR

Just a test of the temp with UltraKaze 3000 120mmx38


----------



## chatch15117

nvm


----------



## ablearcher

Well... hot burners of dark places...

Fry's Sac and Fry's Roseville were both out of new stock H50









Only used, returned models


----------



## Wolfeshaman

well here is the current video. i do apologize for the horrible horrible quality i have no video camera and was using my phone. it goes rather quickly because of the amount the file size can be to send it. i hope i can get a better one soon. will also be posting temps soon. though i am wondering.


YouTube- 0307100218.3g2





the following picture is with the computer reset to absolute stock clocks and everything... wondering if these look right to all of you. ambient temp is around 65 ish (my thermometer is broken and usually is about five off either way)


----------



## Clay333

nah the rad can be mounted with tubes on top, bottom, sides. It doesn't matter it's a closed loop so anyway you mount it is good. Just don't stretch or bend the hoses to much because they may start to leak.


----------



## ohzer0

just remounted after getting my noctuas

push/pull intake did a ghetto mount with zipties


























IDLE: 28-32
LOAD: 55-60 with the heater on


----------



## Hawk777th

Just installed my H50 on a Phenom X4 965 works great!!! Idles around 25c no more than 40c under load. Running push pull with Coolermaster R4s.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hawk777th*


Just installed my H50 on a Phenom X4 965 works great!!! Idles around 25c no more than 40c under load. Running push pull with Coolermaster R4s.


That's exactly how much I get load, only my idle is higher. What are your ambients?

Well for being in a Sauna, not bad. Trying to see how much I can bring down the voltage at stock speeds. This quad don't need an overclock, this thing is fast as hell with the help of the SSD









Full load is 1.328v down from 1.392v :toast:


----------



## Chicken Patty

What I love about the way I set up the H50 on my tech station is that it's exhausting up, so the graphics card has all the heat up removed







Look at it idle. A good 10Âºc less.


----------



## Hawk777th

Hey chicken, whats your 3.8 overclock look like?


----------



## Batou

wrong post -.-


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
What I love about the way I set up the H50 on my tech station is that it's exhausting up, so the graphics card has all the heat up removed







Look at it idle. A good 10Âºc less.


So you're making your CPU hotter to cool down you GFX card? This makes no sense. It looks like to me you need to move you H50 and buy some extra fans for your GFX card. That way your CPU and GFX card both stay cool, its a win-win.


----------



## Batou

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ohzer0* 
just remounted after getting my noctuas

push/pull intake did a ghetto mount with zipties


























IDLE: 28-32
LOAD: 55-60 with the heater on

What is your CPU voltage with that O.C.?


----------



## ChosenLord




----------



## Batou

hey peeps, i'm still working on my H50, i have a question about res,

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Batou* 




























Now if i want to add a res, but the only space left in my case is the bottom, let's say 20 cm under the pump and the radiator, could be it a problem? I mean, the res works better if it is in the upper side of the case or it doesn't matter where you put it? I'm worried thinking about the air that is usually inside the res, and if that air could go up on the pump or inside the radiator from downside. This is the res i think i'll get for the job :









I need some help to understand if this could be done, ty in advance


----------



## ohzer0

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Batou* 
What is your CPU voltage with that O.C.?

Those temps are at 3.73 at stock voltages i am en route to getting 4.0

still testing at the moment but as of right now im only at 4.0 and I'm running a whopping 1.344v and hitting close to 80C









still experimenting with this chip


----------



## Penryn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ohzer0* 
Those temps are at 3.73 at stock voltages i am en route to getting 4.0

still testing at the moment but as of right now im only at 4.0 and I'm running a whopping 1.344v and hitting close to 80C









still experimenting with this chip

At 4.61 with 1.525 I was hitting 80C... Maybe I just have a really cool chip or a freakishly good H50/seat.


----------



## ohzer0

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Penryn* 
At 4.61 with 1.525 I was hitting 80C... Maybe I just have a really cool chip or a freakishly good H50/seat.

Yeah I'm almost positive I'm doing something wrong but maybe its this ES chip


----------



## Hawk777th

Hey guys just noticed in my HW monitor that the fan plug I have the H50s pump plugged into is like 183 degrees. Is this right cause thats crazy hot.


----------



## Batou

I get 65 core max temp with realtemp at 3.8 GHZ stock voltage, but as i go upper with it, around 1.3 v, temps goes up till 70, so i think for 1.45 v i'll go up till 80. I have a mini case (silverstone SG04) and i think even with my lapped cpu\\pump i cannot get lower temps, it's for that i want to add that RES. Anyway, i think really that raise the voltage of a i7 920 D0 is useless if you will OC not past 4 GHZ. My system run stable prime95 at 3.8 with a cpu voltage of 1.184. Anyway i don't like to see those high temps at max voltage (80) since i saw many people raising it to max with a temperature under 60







really dunno how they can do it, i'm sure it depends a lot on case airflow...

@ Willhemmens or Killhouse : maybe you can give to me some tip and info about adding the res on the bottom of the case (see my previous post) please^^


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Batou*


@ Willhemmens or Killhouse : maybe you can give to me some tip and info about adding the res on the bottom of the case (see my previous post) please^^


Willhemmens will be able to answer this, I have no idea







You could always search the watercooling threads, there might be something in the WC FAQs.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hawk777th*


Hey guys just noticed in my HW monitor that the fan plug I have the H50s pump plugged into is like 183 degrees. Is this right cause thats crazy hot.


The pump doesent have a temperature sensor, so HW monitor is giving you a strange reading


----------



## Hawk777th

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


The pump doesent have a temperature sensor, so HW monitor is giving you a strange reading










Alrighty thanks for the help!!!


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hawk777th* 
Hey chicken, whats your 3.8 overclock look like?

My 965 C3 at 3.8ghz uses 1.375 volts, NB is at 2600 mhz with 1.25 volts, RAM is 9-9-9-24 1600 mhz at 1.7 volts. Idle temp is 26-27, max load is 44C. Hope that helps.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hawk777th*


Hey chicken, whats your 3.8 overclock look like?


As far as what? Temps? voltage?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


So you're making your CPU hotter to cool down you GFX card? This makes no sense. It looks like to me you need to move you H50 and buy some extra fans for your GFX card. That way your CPU and GFX card both stay cool, its a win-win.


That's just an assumption. I'm not on purposely doing it like that. I have no other place to mount the H50 on this tech station. Load temps don't go over 41Âºc right now so it doesn't bother me if it picks up slightly hot air from a GPU. How much hotter can the loop get from that, 1-2Âºc? No big deal to me.

GPU doesn't need additional cooling neither. I went from air to this, which is the only mounting possibility, so my CPU is running about 10-11Âºc cooler as well as my graphics card. that to me is a WIN-WIN situation.


----------



## Hawk777th

Ya just wondered what your Bios settings were to acheive that oc.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hawk777th* 
Ya just wondered what your Bios settings were to acheive that oc.

Did you not read my email? My 3.8 is 1.375 volts (used multi-only), NB is at 2600 mhz (used multi only) with 1.25 volts, RAM is at 1600 mhz 9-9-9-24 with 1.7 volts.


----------



## EchoTomcat

Count me in









heres my Rig, excuse the dust on the side panel!


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hawk777th* 
Ya just wondered what your Bios settings were to acheive that oc.

I only bumped the multi, that's it. No voltage bumps at all.


----------



## KoukiFC3S

Bought 3 Cooler Master 90CFM fans for my setup.









I hope these will brings my temps down.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KoukiFC3S*


Bought 3 Cooler Master 90CFM fans for my setup.









I hope these will brings my temps down.


What fans do you have now?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ohzer0*


just remounted after getting my noctuas

push/pull intake did a ghetto mount with zipties


























IDLE: 28-32
LOAD: 55-60 with the heater on


i have an idea for you two things i need to know first

do the noctua's have open space between the screw mounting holes( I.E where you can see the screw itself) and, if you could possibly afford a $1.50 for 4 6-32 1 1/4" screws and washers, if so, why not hang the fans from the screws? seems more logical to me


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KoukiFC3S*


Bought 3 Cooler Master 90CFM fans for my setup.









I hope these will brings my temps down.


i'm guessing hes talking about R4s


----------



## kowabunka

Count me in too!

No rig till now - but the H50 is here







+ one of the Sharkoon Silent Eagle 2000Â´s


----------



## luke997

Hi guys,
Anyone did comparison with the radiator's barbs at the top vs. bottom?
I've been digging on this one for a week now and most says it doesn't matter since it is closed loop, but few says it does as there is a little bit of gas so with barbs bottom it will eventually stay at the top of radiator thus improving performance.

I was planning to try out barbs-at-the bottom orientation myself but not easily done with storm sniper so before I mod anything I though I'll ask if it's worth trying at all.

Like they say - "if it ain't broke - keep trying"


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ablearcher*


Well... hot burners of dark places...

Fry's Sac and *Fry's Roseville* were both out of new stock H50









Only used, returned models










really? two days ago I saw 5 of H50 new boxes on shelf with tag $80 @ the roseville in store-frys. How frys H50 sold out so fast is that possible? I believe H50 ( new boxes ) are still on self with tag $80..


----------



## n8t1308

Four hours on Prime 95 with my new H-50 on my PHENOM II X4 965 C3 stepping...Stable at 4Ghz with a 1.488VCore and a 20X multiplier. Idles at 28C and 100% full load at 50C and i'm pretty happy with those temps







Hardest part about the whole installation was figuring out where I wanted to put this thing lol
Oh on a side note I hate my cable management just as much as you guys probably will but I'm dead tired from trying to get it perfect so how it is is how its gonna stay for awhile


----------



## Jocelyn84

I was wondering if anyone had who owned a Silverstone FT02 or RV02 knew if there is room above the case (120mm) for an additional fan. My guess is one 25mm fan might work, but a 25mm shroud and fan would be to high with the cover.

I'm waiting for the Lian Li PC-60FNWX to come out, but that's not for another 7 weeks.
Just looking at other case options in case I get impatient lol.


----------



## Javamaniac

Well, after tweaking my voltages a bit here and there, I was able to reach 4.01ghz without incident. 20 passes of LinX using all memory completed fine, with max core temps of 76-72-73-67, and idles around 41-37-41-37. Here are the screenshots!


----------



## PCSarge

another successful mod for me yay i feel so good















heres some pics for you boys to enjoy, and my temps dropped by another 3C moving this to where it is now. and if your wondering, that is hanging by thick cable ties on the front fan only


----------



## Wolfeshaman

quick question. this current "overclock" (using those because prime crashes everything) seems stable enough to run absolutely everything except prime. even with the computer set to stock it will still crash. any thoughts on what might be a good overclock for my system, this current one can still handle Crysis full settings all day long.

here is the cpuid
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1062852


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wolfeshaman*


quick question. this current "overclock" (using those because prime crashes everything) seems stable enough to run absolutely everything except prime. even with the computer set to stock it will still crash. any thoughts on what might be a good overclock for my system, this current one can still handle Crysis full settings all day long.

here is the cpuid
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1062852


wolfe, it may be just the fact that prime may not like your pc, if you can run crysis on high settings all day with decent temps, id say your plenty stable hell i had an OC once that would do prime and linpack fine and pass both, then crash on crysis


----------



## Wolfeshaman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


wolfe, it may be just the fact that prime may not like your pc, if you can run crysis on high settings all day with decent temps, id say your plenty stable hell i had an OC once that would do prime and linpack fine and pass both, then crash on crysis



when running crysis i generally get around 50-55c. i think though i might lower the clock a little to see if the temps will go lower. with a 3.78 clock i was getting low 30's at idle and mid to high 40's while playing. ill post some picks soon.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Good job PCSarge


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Good job PCSarge










ty, do i get +rep? lol


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
ty, do i get +rep? lol









LOL. Quit beggin!


----------



## 93TilInfinity

First build, running:
i7 860 on EVGA P5 LE
crap XFX 4650 card (I don't game)

Trying to figure out where to install the H50 in my Cooler Master 690 II Advanced. Options seem to be:

Rear 120mm fan slot
Bottom slot
Top slot

Any thoughts - probably would like to keep the install relatively simple as I'm a noob.









Couple other questions:

1)
If I go push/pull on the rear fan I should let it function as an exhaust right? If I do that there's no need to reverse the front fan correct?

2) If I go push pull on the rear fan should I just reuse the stock CM rear fan as part of that configuration? I also have a Scythe 49cfm fan coming but I can just return it if the stock CM fan will suffice.

Thanks in advance for the help!


----------



## Wolfeshaman

well here is where i am at for now. seems to be really stable and decent temps. i will gladly take any and all suggestions for settings and such. this is with the H50 installed. i just saw while posting this the temps on the cores went down to 36 though was only for a very very short period.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


LOL. Quit beggin!










not begging







its asking nicely


----------



## tn00615120

I love my H50, plz add me to H50 club ; ) Here is prove !!!~~~~


----------



## Penryn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tn00615120*


I love my H50, plz add me to H50 club ; ) Here is prove !!!~~~~











Nice, thats pretty much the same setup I've got on it. Are you running intake or exhaust?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Penryn*


Nice, thats pretty much the same setup I've got on it. Are you running intake or exhaust?


that is looking like intake, you can see that the fan hub not moving on the inside fan


----------



## Penryn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


that is looking like intake, you can see that the fan hub not moving on the inside fan


HAHA I didn't look that closely at the pic XD.







Yep, same setup!


----------



## 93TilInfinity

Quote:



Originally Posted by *93TilInfinity*


First build, running:
i7 860 on EVGA P5 LE
crap XFX 4650 card (I don't game)

Trying to figure out where to install the H50 in my Cooler Master 690 II Advanced. Options seem to be:

Rear 120mm fan slot
Bottom slot
Top slot

Any thoughts - probably would like to keep the install relatively simple as I'm a noob.









Couple other questions:

1) 
If I go push/pull on the rear fan I should let it function as an exhaust right? If I do that there's no need to reverse the front fan correct?

2) If I go push pull on the rear fan should I just reuse the stock CM rear fan as part of that configuration? I also have a Scythe 49cfm fan coming but I can just return it if the stock CM fan will suffice.

Thanks in advance for the help!


Actually, how about I mount the H50 in intake config on the rear fan slot and then flip the top 140mm fan around and use that as the exhaust point for the system, with the front 140 staying as intake. So intake front and rear and exhaust top. Thoughts?


----------



## chatch15117

I'm about to buy one of these next week. Anyone here running 4.1GHz+ i7 with HT, and more than 1.375vcore(1.344 to 1.36 in cpu-z)?

My budget for fans is $40.00. $50 if it really makes a difference.

I did some research on fans last night, and the san ace 1011, yate loons, gentletyphoons and noctua fans did pretty well.

Which is best for the H50? I'd like to stay under 40dB for each fan's noise, and obviously the static pressure will need to be greater than 4mmH20(cfm greater than 70).


----------



## Killhouse

You have a lot of options but I personally recommend the Feser Triebwerk 122, it undervolts beautifully for use with a fan controller.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8364079


----------



## chatch15117

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
You have a lot of options but I personally recommend the Feser Triebwerk 122, it undervolts beautifully for use with a fan controller.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8364079

55mm? I don't think I could fit a push/pull setup, right?


----------



## Killhouse

That depends on your case, you can always mount one outside the case - on the back


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rickyman0319* 
hi. i want to know if this is a good fan (Coolermaster A12025-12CB-3BN-F1 ) for PII x2 550. I am just want to tell you that i want to unlock the core and maybe overclocked. also i want to put one fan each side of the radiator.

Hey rickyman, I dont think anyone got back to you with this...

Coolermaster A12025-12CB-3BN-F1 RPM-1200 CFM-44 dbA-19.8

They are rubbish.. I know, I used to have them. They couldnt blow out a candle let alone cool a rad.

Coolermaster A12025-20RB-3BN-F1 (LED) rpm-2000 cfm-70 dbA-19.8

or better still

Coolermaster R4-L2R-20CK-GP rpm-2000 cfm-90 dbA-19


----------



## ExperimentX

God mine coming in the mail shortly!

Going to do PUSH/PULL with 2 x 147cfm Delta's... yes it will be loud


----------



## chatch15117

I'm still looking for the best 120x25mm fan suggestion









Would those coolermasters(90cfm and 3mmH20) ^^ work well?


----------



## Wolfeshaman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ExperimentX* 
God mine coming in the mail shortly!

Going to do PUSH/PULL with 2 x 147cfm Delta's... yes it will be loud









you have to post a vid of this with sound on that thing. i heard a 240 cfm delta and man my friends GF tried watching a movie with that thing on and couldnt do it. whats the Dba of that thing?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chatch15117*


I'm still looking for the best 120x25mm fan suggestion









Would those coolermasters(90cfm and 3mmH20) ^^ work well?


Coolermaster R4-L2R-20CK-GP will be fine.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wolfesharman*

whats the Dba of that thing


The Delta TFB1212GHE push about 65 dbA... that one will probably be a little less


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


ty, do i get +rep? lol










yessir


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


yessir










That should be yes.. Mame


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


That should be yes.. Mame










Really?









woopsy I had a poopsy


----------



## Typhoeus

uh mame is an emulator, you're thinking of ma'am , short for madam =]


----------



## Chicken Patty

alright, now I'm confused LOL


----------



## ablearcher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Typhoeus*


uh mame is an emulator, you're thinking of ma'am , short for madam =]


Maybe not in Australia?


----------



## n8t1308

I didn't get a reply post so I'm assuming I'm added to the club







I posted my rig a couple pages back...


----------



## pjladyfox

After doing some fiddling, and replacing the stock paste with a dab of Thermal Fusion 400 Compound (RG-TF4-TGU1-GP), I'm pretty pleased with the results. I did have some MX-3 on there before but figured why not try the new stuff and it looks to have been a good choice.

Prime95 run for 9 hours overnight:

Ambient: 25c
Idle: 33c
Load: 48c

LinX test after over an hour today:

Ambient: 26c
Idle: 34c
Load: 50c

After spending all day Saturday with this I learned the following:

1. Shin-etsu paste is the most fustrating paste I have ever had the displeasure of dealing with. Has the consistency of peanut butter, even after heating in a cup for 20 minutes, and spreads like crap. If you decide to try this beware of this and plan accordingly.









2. The best method for applying thermal compound is the "bb size dab on CPU and affix heatsink" method. I got the best results from this for the least amount of fustration.

3. Using either MX-3 or Cooler Master Thermal Fusion 400 Compound (RG-TF4-TGU1-GP) gave good results with the nod towards the Thermal Fusion 400.

4. If you are using an AMD system run, do not walk, to FrozenCPU and get the newer AM3 mounting kit. It's an all-metal fixture, using a much better quality plastic ring than the flimsy metal one, and no plastic backplate BS. The screws are even pre-configured so that you can't overtighten them unless you are the Hulk and have no fine motor control; just screw in and snug to fit.

5. The push/pull fan configuration also gives the best results with the exaust pointing out of the case which helped drop the interior temps down to aid in cooling the video card.

I've attached some pics of my setup and the test results as well. Overall, I'm just happy that I finally seem to have gotten this dialed in to where I can start enjoying my system rather than stressing over it.


----------



## SonyDSLR

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
Did you not read my email? My 3.8 is 1.375 volts (used multi-only), NB is at 2600 mhz (used multi only) with 1.25 volts, RAM is at 1600 mhz 9-9-9-24 with 1.7 volts.









Your run 64 Bit that what keep you stable any faster timing you would BOSD trust me ifyour stable and cool and fast never mind the ram but the system stock V should be 1.8v


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Penryn*


Nice, thats pretty much the same setup I've got on it. Are you running intake or exhaust?




Almost identical to me too, same power supply, the 2 fans at the top are exhaust and the h-50 is intake push/pull



Temps are good too


----------



## Coldplayer

Guys tommorow im getting a h50 or a noctua nhu12p. Both would be used with 2x noctua p12 fans push pull. Thing is i heard h50 doesnt work well in cases with not that good airflow. And my p182 doesnt have good airflow.
Thoughts??


----------



## ChosenLord

Make good airflow, any case that can hold a mobo and psu can be modded to fit some fans on, and in any eventuality you could always use the h-50 as an external solution?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Coldplayer* 
Guys tommorow im getting a h50 or a noctua nhu12p. Both would be used with 2x noctua p12 fans push pull. Thing is i heard h50 doesnt work well in cases with not that good airflow. And my p182 doesnt have good airflow.
Thoughts??

buy better fans for $10 a piece, fix your airflow, and buy an H50, i'm glad i ditched my fan cooler...the noise was unbearable


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Really?









woopsy I had a poopsy

yes really chicken


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pjladyfox* 
After doing some fiddling, and replacing the stock paste with a dab of Thermal Fusion 400 Compound (RG-TF4-TGU1-GP), I'm pretty pleased with the results. I did have some MX-3 on there before but figured why not try the new stuff and it looks to have been a good choice.

Prime95 run for 9 hours overnight:

Ambient: 25c
Idle: 33c
Load: 48c

LinX test after over an hour today:

Ambient: 26c
Idle: 34c
Load: 50c

After spending all day Saturday with this I learned the following:

1. Shin-etsu paste is the most fustrating paste I have ever had the displeasure of dealing with. Has the consistency of peanut butter, even after heating in a cup for 20 minutes, and spreads like crap. If you decide to try this beware of this and plan accordingly.









2. The best method for applying thermal compound is the "bb size dab on CPU and affix heatsink" method. I got the best results from this for the least amount of fustration.

3. Using either MX-3 or Cooler Master Thermal Fusion 400 Compound (RG-TF4-TGU1-GP) gave good results with the nod towards the Thermal Fusion 400.

4. If you are using an AMD system run, do not walk, to FrozenCPU and get the newer AM3 mounting kit. It's an all-metal fixture, using a much better quality plastic ring than the flimsy metal one, and no plastic backplate BS. The screws are even pre-configured so that you can't overtighten them unless you are the Hulk and have no fine motor control; just screw in and snug to fit.

5. The push/pull fan configuration also gives the best results with the exaust pointing out of the case which helped drop the interior temps down to aid in cooling the video card.

I've attached some pics of my setup and the test results as well. Overall, I'm just happy that I finally seem to have gotten this dialed in to where I can start enjoying my system rather than stressing over it.
















Hello, have we met before? Maybe, not, what?









Anyhow, all of your above results I agree with. My next step is to get the mounting mechanism from Frozen CPU and try different TIM, the rest I've been through. Thanks for sharing this info with us







1 +rep for you

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Coldplayer* 
Guys tommorow im getting a h50 or a noctua nhu12p. Both would be used with 2x noctua p12 fans push pull. Thing is i heard h50 doesnt work well in cases with not that good airflow. And my p182 doesnt have good airflow.
Thoughts??

The reason they say that is because Corsair recommends you use it as intake in the rear of the case therefore if your case has no exhaust up top or anywhere else, how does your case exhaust? The P182 should have an exhaust up top if I'm not mistaken. However, try both ways, intake/exhaust. With a single fan it proved better to be intake, but with push and pull exhaust was a much better choice.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
yes really chicken

Sorry


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SonyDSLR* 
Your run 64 Bit that what keep you stable any faster timing you would BOSD trust me ifyour stable and cool and fast never mind the ram but the system stock V should be 1.8v

Yes I run Win 7 64 bit and you're wrong







. I have also run 4.014 ghz on the CPU with 1.5 V, NB at 2650 mhz at 1.275 volts and RAM at 1660mhz 9-9-9-24 rock stable. Temps at idle are 31 C and after 4 hours Prime 95 blended max reached is 53 C.


----------



## Coldplayer

i'll have 2 push pull noctua fans on it..just that my antec p182 only has 1 intake fan so airflow is a bit meh.


----------



## Aqualoon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pjladyfox* 

4. If you are using an AMD system run, do not walk, to FrozenCPU and get the newer AM3 mounting kit. It's an all-metal fixture, using a much better quality plastic ring than the flimsy metal one, and no plastic backplate BS. The screws are even pre-configured so that you can't overtighten them unless you are the Hulk and have no fine motor control; just screw in and snug to fit.


On FrozenCPU right now, can't find the newer mounting kit. Thinking I have the rev 2 H50 as the installation wasn't bad but wasn't smooth either. Have one screw that doesn't really screw in which I'm thinking could be why I'm getting such high temps.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aqualoon* 
On FrozenCPU right now, can't find the newer mounting kit. Thinking I have the rev 2 H50 as the installation wasn't bad but wasn't smooth either. Have one screw that doesn't really screw in which I'm thinking could be why I'm getting such high temps.

yikes!? what did you do to that screw? did you perhaps use the wrong one!? if not, id suggest talking to corsair about it


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Coldplayer* 
i'll have 2 push pull noctua fans on it..just that my antec p182 only has 1 intake fan so airflow is a bit meh.

it worked in my old ultra e-torque mid tower as exhaust with only 1 intake fan, its doable, you just hafta "wanna" as george carlin put it


----------



## Aqualoon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
yikes!? what did you do to that screw? did you perhaps use the wrong one!? if not, id suggest talking to corsair about it

There is nothing wrong with the screw, it just doesn't actually screw in...it's odd. I tried using a different screw in that same hole and it went in just fine.

My temps aren't bad (46C load on a AMD Phenom II 955 @ 1.4v) I just want lower is all.

I've probably used over 30 after market HSF's in the past 2 years and I have never ran into this issue where one screw simply wouldn't "screw into" the backplate. It's rather odd.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aqualoon* 
There is nothing wrong with the screw, it just doesn't actually screw in...it's odd. I tried using a different screw in that same hole and it went in just fine.

My temps aren't bad (46C load on a AMD Phenom II 955 @ 1.4v) I just want lower is all.

I've probably used over 30 after market HSF's in the past 2 years and I have never ran into this issue where one screw simply wouldn't "screw into" the backplate. *ITS* rather odd.

perhaps its a bad threading on the screw







or might i suggest, switching it with one of the other screws if it works in another hole? 30 of them... like woah much.....i only got to about 8 then i got the H50, cause i got tired of the noise they made. figured id correct your small grammar/spelling error


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aqualoon*


On FrozenCPU right now, can't find the newer mounting kit. ....


Sorry to say, they have sold out their stock of, and stated they would
probably NOT be able to re-stock for Corsair has even ran-out-of-stock for such....

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Aqualoon

Prolly why I can't find it then.


----------



## Aqualoon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


figured id correct your small grammar/spelling error


No grammar error actually, I meant it as "it's" as I could have wrote "It is rather odd" but instead used the contraction.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aqualoon*


No grammar error actually, I meant it as "it's" as I could have wrote "It is rather odd" but instead used the contraction.


you actually wrote i'd rather odd, not to argue







though i do see you've since corrected it


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aqualoon*


Prolly why I can't find it then.



my 2







; here you can see for yourself . . . .  >>> click HERE 2 C <<< 

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


my 2







; here you can see for yourself . . . .  >>> click HERE 2 C <<< 

mr-Charles .









.


they should make a bunch of intel brackets like that >.> i'm sure my 775 could use it xD and on that metal ring... they should have made metal inserts for the screws...seems frigging logical to me, but corsair wasnt that smart


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Batou*


I get 65 core max temp with realtemp at 3.8 GHZ stock voltage, but as i go upper with it, around 1.3 v, temps goes up till 70, so i think for 1.45 v i'll go up till 80. I have a mini case (silverstone SG04) and i think even with my lapped cpu\\pump i cannot get lower temps, it's for that i want to add that RES. Anyway, i think really that raise the voltage of a i7 920 D0 is useless if you will OC not past 4 GHZ. My system run stable prime95 at 3.8 with a cpu voltage of 1.184. Anyway i don't like to see those high temps at max voltage (80) since i saw many people raising it to max with a temperature under 60







really dunno how they can do it, i'm sure it depends a lot on case airflow...

@ Willhemmens or Killhouse : maybe you can give to me some tip and info about adding the res on the bottom of the case (see my previous post) please^^


High speed fans and mods. Whats your Ambient temp?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
High speed fans and mods. Whats your Ambient temp?

dammit will, dont make me mail u my pc to do a custom WC loop xD, i have not the money nor the time atm


----------



## mr-Charles

. . . . Look's like page _500_ is about's here







,
and _soon to be posting's of 5000 ! ! !_







. . .







. . .









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
dammit will, dont make me mail u my pc to do a custom WC loop xD, i have not the money nor the time atm

Ha. Thats the kind of thing i would happily do, Shipping would be the killer though.

In the future, give me a budget and i can easily design a full custom loop to your preferences for you.


----------



## kev_b

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
. . . . Look's like page _500_ is about's here







,
and _soon to be posting's of 5000 ! ! !_







. . .







. . .









mr-Charles .









.

I've got to say I never thought the H-50 would be this popular when I first seen it.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Ha. Thats the kind of thing i would happily do, Shipping would be the killer though.

In the future, give me a budget and i can easily design a full custom loop to your preferences for you.

ill hafta get together money first, though youll hafta convert your money to CAD cause thats what i use xD i want something simple yet effective... and if possible... to include a GPU heatsink... my 9800 GTX + puts out major heat while folding, even more if i start up crysis and although the stock fan works amazingly well, its also annoyingly the loudest thing in my case id hafta run a guess of about 40 DBA at 100% speed with the fan at about 30% i hear nothing in my case making noise... its rather fun to just hear air moving. not just the shipping will but the waiting...


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
ill hafta get together money first, though youll hafta convert your money to CAD cause thats what i use xD i want something simple yet effective... and if possible... to include a GPU heatsink... my 9800 GTX + puts out major heat while folding, even more if i start up crysis and although the stock fan works amazingly well, its also annoyingly the loudest thing in my case id hafta run a guess of about 40 DBA at 100% speed with the fan at about 30% i hear nothing in my case making noise... its rather fun to just hear air moving

Im sure we could do something like that, fairly cheap. GPU should be fine if we can find a waterblock.

If you give me a link to some sites that will ship to you or from were you are, i can take a look.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kev_b* 
I've got to say I never thought the H-50 would be this popular when I first seen it.










. . . Yes, indeed > > > _Agree_ *100%* upon that statement . . . .

{ _*much thnx*_ & *Congrat's* to Killhouse, as well







}

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Im sure we could do something like that, fairly cheap. GPU should be fine if we can find a waterblock.

If you give me a link to some sites that will ship to you or from were you are, i can take a look.

gimmie a couple minutes to work on it and ill have a list of sites for you
i know a bunch are www.tigerdirect.ca www.ncix.com www.frozencpu.com


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
gimmie a couple minutes to work on it and ill have a list of sites for you
i know one is www.tigerdirect.ca

Ok, well you can always PM me. I will keep having a look at you List. Tigerdirect Doesnt have anything really, just some Thermaltake stuff, you want to keep away from that stuff really.


----------



## mr-Charles

. . . . c'mon now; keep it going . . . .
. . . WHO's gonna be _#5000 poster_? ! ? !?

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
. . . . c'mon now; keep it going . . . .
. . . WHO's gonna be _#5000 poster_? ! ? !?

mr-Charles .









.

muhahaha *cough*


----------



## PCSarge

hahahaha *cough* ha i win... post #5000


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


hahahaha *cough* ha i win... post #5000


{ and just _did_ make it for on page 500...}

. . . . .







. . . . .









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


. . . . .







. . . . .









mr-Charles .









.










i wonder when will is gonna pm me back...








cause i would just mod the H50 for now.... until i can afford full blown WC...lol
but ofc hes the expert, let him find good parts


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


another successful mod for me yay i feel so good















heres some pics for you boys to enjoy, and my temps dropped by another 3C moving this to where it is now. and if your wondering, that is hanging by thick cable ties on the front fan only












Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


gimmie a couple minutes to work on it and ill have a list of sites for you
i know a bunch are www.tigerdirect.ca www.ncix.com  www.frozencpu.com


Maybe from somewhere more local?
Dazmode


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*











Maybe from somewhere more local?
Dazmode


thanks for that... i dont know much bout part sources for WC, i actually got my H50 from tiger direct xD


----------



## Mike431635

Ok, so for some reason thread search isn't working for me right now.. and I need to make a decision. Maybe you guys can help me.

My H50 is coming in and I'll be switching my E6420 over to a UD3P, cooling it with the H50, and installing my new 5770 tonight. I want to rush push/pull, obviously.. I will have no problem finding the hardware to do it but I need to decide on fans. I have one Yate Loon medium speed from Petras that I used on my evaporative cooler-- should I buy another one and use these for the task? How do they do on the H50 cooler? I know we're looking for high static pressure and I can't seem to find the static pressure of these fans. Furthermore, I don't know what constitutes as "high enough" to adequately cool my system.

Also, whats the static pressure and CFM of the fan Corsair ships with the unit? Trying to figure out if I should mount it with the stock fan or just use the Yate Loon I've got now right off the bat.

Thanks guys!


----------



## A.D.D.

H50 Owner here. Pretty decent cooler for having such a small radiator for it.


----------



## mr-Charles

abit-O-info on the Corsair Fan =
" This fan consumes 2.2W when running at 1700RPM and has a noise level 
of 29.75 dB(A). The max airflow is 59.05CFM with a static pressure of 3.57mm H20. "

{ you can read's more over to:  >>> *HERE* <<<  }

hope this help's & answer's your question's for anything of the Corsair H50. . .

edit: about's your Yate Loon *med* =

Manufacturer:Yate Loon
Model/ Part No.: D12S*M*-12 
Size: 120 x 120 x 25 mm 
Airflow: 70.5 CFM
Noise: 33 dBA 
RPM:1650 
Bearing:Ball Bearing 
Power Consumption: 12V 
Connector: 3-pin, 4-pin 
RPM sensing: Yes
Weight: 110g 
Tail length: 430 mm
Color: Black

>>>[ i'd say, place your Yate Loon as Push and the Corsair Fan as Pull ...







]<<<

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## McLaren_F1

Are the Coolermaster R4 actually 19dbA?

Ive seen some reviews and they say its not


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
abit-O-info on the Corsair Fan =
" This fan consumes 2.2W when running at 1700RPM and has a noise level
of 29.75 dB(A). The max airflow is 59.05CFM with a static pressure of 3.57mm H20. "

{ you can read's more over to: >>> *HERE* <<< }

hope this help's & answer's your question's for anything of the Corsair H50. . .

edit: about's your Yate Loon *med* =

Manufacturer:Yate Loon
Model/ Part No.: D12S*M*-12
Size: 120 x 120 x 25 mm 
Airflow: 70.5 CFM
Noise: 33 dBA 
RPM:1650 
Bearing:Ball Bearing 
Power Consumption: 12V 
Connector: 3-pin, 4-pin 
RPM sensing: Yes
Weight: 110g 
Tail length: 430 mm
Color: Black

>>>[ i'd say, place your Yate Loon as Push and the Corsair Fan as Pull ...







]<<<

mr-Charles .









.

i say mr charles is a silly boy but hes right


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1* 
Are the Coolermaster R4 actually 19dbA?

Ive seen some reviews and they say its not


here's the info which are placed for them:

Manufacturer: Cooler Master
Model/ Part No.:R4-L2R-20AC-GP
Size:120 x 120 x 25 mm
Airflow: 90 CFM
Noise:19 dB
RPM:2000
Bearing:Long Life Sleeve
Power Consumption:12V, 0.35A 
Pressure: 3.04 mmH2O
Connector:3-pin and 4-pin 
RPM sensing:Yes

??? Do the reviews state that they are Louder or more Quiet than rate'd ? ? ?

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Capwn

They are much louder. The R4 in my case is by far the loudest fan I have.


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:


Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1* 
Are the Coolermaster R4 actually 19dbA?

Ive seen some reviews and they say its not

They're 19 dBA when undervolted, not a full speed. I've heard around 30 dBA full speed. Seems like CM likes to mislead consumers.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
i say mr charles is a silly boy but hes right













































. . .







...







...







...







...







...









and THAT's MR-CHARLES 2 U .









.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 

. . .







...







...







...







...







...









and THAT's MR-CHARLES 2 U .









.

all i can say about R4s is i have 7 as case fans... 2 on push/pull on my rad all i hear is my graphics card, thier all running on 4 pin molex full speed, so i dont believe 19dba is a lie

BUT! i MUST EDIT! if used in a horizontal fashion, they make a good 23DBA of noise, verticals however remain at 19dba


----------



## mr-Charles

...now, i *DID* have a set of these at first, and YES _*these*_ were *loud*, big time . . .

IF i was to leave them at full bore = *2500rpm*, which = *38 to 40 dBA . . .







*

Manufacturer:Cooler Master 
Model/ Part No.: Y720DCD-25T1-GP
Size:120 x 120 x 25 mm
Airflow:*110 CFM* <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<








Noise: 16.5~*38* dBA <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<








RPM: 800~*2500* <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<








Bearing: Double Ball 
Power Consumption:0.12~0.50A 
Pressure:5.6mm
Connector:3-pin and 4-pin

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Mike431635

Good info on the fans. Happen to know the static pressure of the Yate Loon D12SM-12's? Thats what really matters for rads anyhow.

I'm hesitant to run two fans with different pressures/cfm as I don't want them to compete with each other.


----------



## McLaren_F1

Which fans do you guys think are better 2 x Scythe S-FLEX SFF21F or 2 x R4? My case is the Corsair 800D and i already have 3 top exhaust fans


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*


Which fans do you guys think are better 2 x Scythe S-FLEX SFF21F or 2 x R4? My case is the Corsair 800D and i already have 3 top exhaust fans


S-Flex are better build quality but more expensive.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*


Which fans do you guys think are better 2 x Scythe S-FLEX SFF21F or 2 x R4? My case is the Corsair 800D and i already have 3 top exhaust fans


.....info for the Scythe-S-FLEX SFF21F=

Airflow: 63.7 CFM
Noise: 28 dBA
Rotation Speed: 1,600 RPM
Connector: 3-Pin (4-Pin adapter included)
Bearing Type: Fluid Dynamic Bearing
Current Draw: 0.20 A

and you can compare for the R-4; (i have NO idea of what MODEL R-4 U R referring about's, 
so i won't post the wrong info to ya ...)

mr-Charles .










.


----------



## pcnuttie

I'm trying so hard to decide if i should buy this because i been following this for a long time and i hear great results. I have no intention of overclocking so hard BUT it's nice to have a cooler that's water compared to air. However, the airflow really puzzles me because i have a antec 1200 and i still wanna be able to use my rear fan on the bottom. Would i just mount the rad on it and not use the other fan or USE BOTH? I really am deciding hard if i should go out to Best Buy and get it lol. Still unsure.. just borderline decision here because i bet the temps may be a bit same as my air cooled or maybe i would be wrong and it's lower?.. Man i have no idea.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


I'm trying so hard to decide if i should buy this because i been following this for a long time and i hear great results. I have no intention of overclocking so hard BUT it's nice to have a cooler that's water compared to air. However, the airflow really puzzles me because i have a antec 1200 and i still wanna be able to use my rear fan on the bottom. Would i just mount the rad on it and not use the other fan or USE BOTH? I really am deciding hard if i should go out to Best Buy and get it lol. Still unsure.. just borderline decision here because i bet the temps may be a bit same as my air cooled or maybe i would be wrong and it's lower?.. Man i have no idea.


it would be a bit lower....especially on load temps if u dont wana mount it on the fan in the rear, see my rad in 5.25 bays link


----------



## pcnuttie

Are you kidding me? I'd perfer exhaust dude, so i can draw heat out more. If i put it in front of my intakes since i have 3 fans on my 1200 i'm gonna get dust build up, no thanks! I'm just trying to decide if i need 2 fans to pull in the air from the rad fan to my rear fan as exhaust, might need extra screws then again i might just use my rear fan as a exhaust for it. I'm still unsure if i should go down there and buy it lol.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Are you kidding me? I'd perfer exhaust dude, so i can draw heat out more. If i put it in front of my intakes since i have 3 fans on my 1200 i'm gonna get dust build up, no thanks! I'm just trying to decide if i need 2 fans to pull in the air from the rad fan to my rear fan as exhaust, might need extra screws then again i might just use my rear fan as a exhaust for it. I'm still unsure if i should go down there and buy it lol.


The front fans are filtered though?


----------



## Jolido

Hey guys, got my new computer parts a few weeks ago with the H50 of course.. 
Ive read most of this thread before registering and havent come across a question about joining two PWM fans into one thingy and plugging it into the CPU_FAN header.. (of course exluding the RPM sensor)

Think it would supply enough juice for both fans.. and could anything go wrong? Its the stock corsair and a Scythe kama PWM

Pics will follow if u want once my RAM returns from RMA









EDIT: Of course for sandwiching the rad


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*


Which fans do you guys think are better 2 x Scythe S-FLEX SFF21F or 2 x R4? My case is the Corsair 800D and i already have 3 top exhaust fans


90cfm R4's will perform better but the Sflex will be close behind. Build quality goes to the Sflex. Best build quality is on the Gentle Typhoons.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Are you kidding me? I'd perfer exhaust dude, so i can draw heat out more. If i put it in front of my intakes since i have 3 fans on my 1200 i'm gonna get dust build up, no thanks! I'm just trying to decide if i need 2 fans to pull in the air from the rad fan to my rear fan as exhaust, might need extra screws then again i might just use my rear fan as a exhaust for it. I'm still unsure if i should go down there and buy it lol.


Just get it! You can thank me later.








Try using it as exhaust on the rear with the stock H50 fan pushing through the rad, and put the rear exhaust fan (stock fan) on the bottom as intake. If you want more performance down the road, you can go push/pull and get better fans.


----------



## Batou

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


High speed fans and mods. Whats your Ambient temp?


Hi willhemmens^^ , ambient temp always 21-22, the problem is that even if i have a silverstone mini case i sincerely wanna drop temperatures >< , and was thinking about a res on the bottom of the case, btw i ordered it today the aquacooling one, i just hope putting it on the bottom of the case won't be a problem, but i saw many people doing it on the forum (the watercooling one here)

btw the question i made is on page 492 the first post if you didn't see it plz


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Batou*


Hi willhemmens^^ , ambient temp always 21-22, the problem is that even if i have a silverstone mini case i sincerely wanna drop temperatures >< , and was thinking about a res on the bottom of the case, btw i ordered it today the aquacooling one, i just hope putting it on the bottom of the case won't be a problem, but i saw many people doing it on the forum (the watercooling one here)


Shouldnt be too bad, you will just have too fill the loop out side the case.

21-22 is quite warm, im normally like 15-16'c but i like it cold.


----------



## Garanthor

looser101 said:


> 90cfm R4's will perform better but the Sflex will be close behind. Build quality goes to the Sflex. Best build quality is on the Gentle Typhoons.
> 
> I agree but would also add that the S Flex is noticeably quieter. I would guess the temp difference between the two to be almost negligable (i.e. perhaps 1 degree or less).


----------



## luke997

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jolido*


Hey guys, got my new computer parts a few weeks ago with the H50 of course.. 
Ive read most of this thread before registering and havent come across a question about joining two PWM fans into one thingy and plugging it into the CPU_FAN header.. (of course exluding the RPM sensor)

Think it would supply enough juice for both fans.. and could anything go wrong? Its the stock corsair and a Scythe kama PWM

Pics will follow if u want once my RAM returns from RMA









EDIT: Of course for sandwiching the rad










There is another option which I use - Akasa PWM splitter - draws the power from PSU (molex) and give juice up to 3 PWM fans + gives you feedback loop into the mobo for control.
IMO best solution as doesn't draw any juice from mobo and gives option to control...


----------



## Jolido

Quote:

There is another option which I use - Akasa PWM splitter - draws the power from PSU (molex) and give juice up to 3 PWM fans + gives you feedback loop into the mobo for control.
IMO best solution as doesn't draw any juice from mobo and gives option to control...
Hmm pretty much looks like a win/win situation for me! Although I hoped I could avoid more shopping









how would that work with non-identical fans though? different RPM readings and all


----------



## luke997

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jolido* 
how would that work with non-identical fans though? different RPM readings and all

Sorry, can't help there - I use 2 same fans and always 100% (they are silent @full speed anyways).

BTW - it is also a good idea to connect pump directly to PSU rather than mobo, again less load on mobo and better volts to the pump (on mobo it was reporting ~1300-1320 while it should have been 1400 as most says).
I got slightly better temps when switched fans/pump to PSU and certainly it's better for the mobo...


----------



## Batou

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Shouldnt be too bad, you will just have too fill the loop out side the case.

21-22 is quite warm, im normally like 15-16'c but i like it cold.

Some other questions since you are here..
1) to fill the system and remove any bubbles did you use the screw on the top of the pump ? can't understand from the guide how did you do that, maybe it's my crap english.
2) a RES will help me to drop temp or anyway i'll get same temps since the system will reach the same thermal stability inside the case?
3)i'm using 6/8 tubes, they are soooo hard to fit in that i really didn't need any clamp or cable ties to secure them, instead i had to use my hairdryer to fit them in (lool) so i ran the system and i think nothing really can come out from it, plus i can revolve the tubes of the pump (fixed at the pipes) without any obstacle, just seems a bit small to me but i guess it is ok. maybe was better using 1/4''
4) Will the pump make his job with a res and tubes + rad, i mean the power of the pump is enough or maybe it will run at lower rpm?

ty for the answer, i really apreciated


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


...now, i *DID* have a set of these at first, and YES _*these*_ were *loud*, big time . . .

IF i was to leave them at full bore =* 2500rpm*, which = * 38 to 40 dBA . . .







*

Manufacturer:Cooler Master 
Model/ Part No.: Y720DCD-25T1-GP
Size:120 x 120 x 25 mm
Airflow:*110 CFM* <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<








Noise: 16.5~*38* dBA <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<








RPM: 800~*2500* <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<








Bearing: Double Ball 
Power Consumption:0.12~0.50A 
Pressure:5.6mm
Connector:3-pin and 4-pin

mr-Charles .









.


This data has been added to the Fan spec spreadsheet on the front page of this thread. Thanks Mr Charles.

Just an observation Mr Charles... I find your use of different fonts and embellishments... disturbing


----------



## Jolido

Quote:



Originally Posted by *luke997*


on mobo it was reporting ~1300-1320 while it should have been 1400 as most says


Well mine hovers in the 1370-1410 range but-

Quote:



less load on mobo and better volts to the pump


you might be right, a DC motor sure is thirsty when struggling







, should probably get one of those converters then.. Thanks









Looks like i'll be giving you your first rep point!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jolido*


Well mine hovers in the 1370-1410 range


Do you have your pump fed from the mobo or direct from PSU?

Also, can you pls complete your system specs via this link... thanks

Quote:



http://www.overclock.net/specs.php?do=addsystem


----------



## Penryn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *luke997*


Sorry, can't help there - I use 2 same fans and always 100% (they are silent @full speed anyways).

BTW - it is also a good idea to connect pump directly to PSU rather than mobo, again less load on mobo and better volts to the pump (on mobo it was reporting ~1300-1320 while it should have been 1400 as most says).
I got slightly better temps when switched fans/pump to PSU and certainly it's better for the mobo...


On mobo my pump sits at 1506.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Just an observation Mr Charles... I find your use of different fonts and embellishments... disturbing











oh...WELL . .







. . tsk, tsk, tsk . .







. . at least for those who ARE using laptop's 
for even in the screen size of 13.3 or even smaller appreciate WHAT i can do 
for them to read from here . .







. .

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## ablearcher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


really? two days ago I saw 5 of H50 new boxes on shelf with tag $80 @ the roseville in store-frys. How frys H50 sold out so fast is that possible? I believe H50 ( new boxes ) are still on self with tag $80..


The only one was a returned item









I asked the components desk, and they said, "check back on Monday."


----------



## Jolido

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Do you have your pump fed from the mobo or direct from PSU?


Mobo, PWR_FAN

Quote:



Also, can you pls complete your system specs via this link... thanks


Right away


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


oh...WELL . . . tsk, tsk, tsk . . . . at least for those who ARE using laptop's 
for even in the screen size of 13.3 or even smaller appreciate WHAT i can do 
for them to read from here . 
mr-Charles . 
.


We thank you for your continued support of small screen users world wide.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jolido*


Mobo, PWR_FAN


There is a tip which is not highlighted in the manual for the H50. Both the pump and rad fan need to be running at 100%. In order to achieve this when using the CPU fan header, all BIOS fan controls need to be set to manual 100% power. Other things like CPU smart fan etc need to be disabled.

_Just make sure the header you are using is a 12v header not a 5v... _I fell into that trap early on









Leave your fan failure warnings enabled.

When using other mobo headers, programs like Speedfan can be used to override the presets and get the pump to run at 100%. Typically, the pump should be running anywhere bewteen 1400 - 1500 rpm.

Thanks for filling in the system specs. It just saves time if you have any probs later down the track.


----------



## PCSarge

well i sat with willhemms (jeez hope i spelt it right, i'm bad after a few drinks)

and he gave me a list of parts i should get to do a res mod on the H50, the only thing he didnt mention is its up to a 75% extra ontop charge to get it over the canada/usa border... so instead of $57 itll probably be like $135 w/ ups shipping and tariff charges x.x guess i hafta wait a while before i can make some blood red antifreeze run through my H50's lines


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


well i sat with willhemms (jeez hope i spelt it right, i'm bad after a few drinks)

and he gave me a list of parts i should get to do a res mod on the H50, the only thing he didnt mention is its up to a 75% extra ontop charge to get it over the canada/usa border... so instead of $57 itll probably be like $135 w/ ups shipping and tariff charges x.x guess i hafta wait a while before i can make some blood red antifreeze run through my H50's lines


Hey,,, good luck with that. Looking for some great <well lit> pics after









Does that mean you two are engaged now?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Hey,,, good luck with that. Looking for some great <well lit> pics after









Does that mean you two are engaged now?










nah, just means hes a good friend to have for how tight my budget is... id say at least 3 weeks before i can order it unless ofc someone else whos ordered parts from frozencpu and had them shipped over border hasnt had to pay the tax? if all of you whove order parts online have.. .youve probably paid more import charges than you have for the parts


----------



## PC Gamer

Hey guys I was wondering if I only use 1 fan does it go behind or infront of the rad if I want to exhaust?


----------



## Jolido

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Both the pump and rad *fan* need to be running at 100%. In order to achieve this when using the CPU fan header, all BIOS fan controls need to be set to manual 100% power. Other things like CPU smart fan etc need to be disabled.

As others are getting higher pump RPM's i'll definitely get a converter for it, but as for the fan..

so far I'm getting idle coretemps equal to ambient temps (with just one corsair push fan) at 600-700RPM, ofc with only 9multipliers * 136.. (I like the EIST function!) so I dont see why I shouldn't use that PWM

as soon as I load up it goes to 1600 anyway









Quote:

I fell into that trap early on








Ugh, did it even spin









Quote:

Thanks for filling in the system specs. It just saves time if you have any probs later down the track.
np!


----------



## pjladyfox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aqualoon* 
On FrozenCPU right now, can't find the newer mounting kit. Thinking I have the rev 2 H50 as the installation wasn't bad but wasn't smooth either. Have one screw that doesn't really screw in which I'm thinking could be why I'm getting such high temps.

The one I'm talking about would be this one:

http://www.frozencpu.com/images/prod...ex-wat-148.jpg

I tried looking for the same kit on FrozenCPU but they pulled the page for some reason.







Best thing I can suggest is try emailing Corsair, attach the picture above, and see if you can get one.


----------



## Jolido

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PC Gamer* 
Hey guys I was wondering if I only use 1 fan does it go behind or infront of the rad if I want to exhaust?

You can easily set it up as |case| < |fan| < |rad|

and have the fan pull air out, don't know how you would do with the screws if u wanted |case| < |rad| < |fan|

You can always just upgrade with a pushing fan to make it push/pull later if it doesn't perform well enough


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jolido* 
As others are getting higher pump RPM's i'll definitely get a converter for it, but as for the fan..

so far I'm getting idle coretemps equal to ambient temps (with just one corsair push fan) at 600-700RPM, ofc with only 9multipliers * 136.. (I like the EIST function!) so I dont see why I shouldn't use that PWM

as soon as I load up it goes to 1600 anyway









Ugh, did it even spin









np!









Looks like your good to go then









Did it spin? Yep... veeeeery slowly @ 540 rpm. you can image what that did for my temps









Quote:


Originally Posted by *PC Gamer*
Hey guys I was wondering if I only use 1 fan does it go behind or infront of the rad if I want to exhaust?

Good question. I recommend in front, with a shroud.
eg
Fan>shroud>rad>case = exhaust.


----------



## Jolido

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


you can image what that did for my temps










Yeah!








a friend of mine accidently turned off his pump (on a fancontroller) in a big WC loop and his water went HAWT, made his tubes all soft and pop! water goes everywhere









anyway i'd better sleep. laters


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Looks like your good to go then









Did it spin? Yep... veeeeery slowly @ 540 rpm. you can image what that did for my temps









Good question. I recommend in front, with a shroud. 
eg
Fan>shroud>rad>case = exhaust.


*argues with sethy over one of his sig titles* my pc is greener than yours! it has an EPU built into the mobo!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


*argues with sethy over one of his sig titles* my pc is greener than yours! it has an EPU built into the mobo!


How many drinks have you had???









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jolido*

made his tubes all soft and pop!


I hate it when that happens, especially before a big date


----------



## Killhouse

Drunj is fwt!


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Drunj is fwt!


i still wonder if willhelmmens would mail me his H50 loop... would save me time lmaos

(or maybe his res...lol i can handle tubing part)


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i can handle tubing myself)


Oh dear... some people may pay money to see that


----------



## PCSarge

Sethy666:Oh dear... some people may pay money to see that

to see what? me make an H50 look like a vampire sucking blood?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


Sethy666:Oh dear... some people may pay money to see that

to see what? me make an H50 look like a vampire sucking blood?


nvm... Killhouse can explain it


----------



## Killhouse

When you're older
















Oh man, I went out human and got assaulted by blue paint, now I'm a smurf!

I'm also aware that I might have to edit my last few posts in the morning to make them more topical


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
When you're older
















Oh man, I went out human and got assaulted by blue paint, now I'm a smurf!

I'm also aware that I might have to edit my last few posts in the morning to make them more topical









FOOOOOOOOOOOSAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!







i'm so out of it lol


----------



## Typhoeus

My H50 finally arrived today! My old Temperatures with a Coolermaster Hyper TX3:










and with a Single Gentle Typhoon in Push/Intake!










using ICD-7 thermal paste. I am /VERY/ satisfied =] am hoping for a max of 49 or 50c when I get my second GT installed!


----------



## David J.

Hey, I got a Corsair H50 put in my gaming rig, and I had the worse luck installing the AMD bracket, as I noticed that one of the screws for the AMD fan - the thin threaded screws and one of the adapters would keep popping out and the screw got stuck in the adapter. I take it I might have a stripped screw. I do have it mounted in there tight with the other three screws, and I'm just curious if I can get replacements from Corsair and if it will hurt stability - it's in there pretty tight regardless.

Other than that one screw and adapter, it wasn't too bad to install. but for the time being I just wonder if I am going to hurt anything.


----------



## Killhouse

If it's tight it should be fine (thats what *he* said!). You can get a replacement off Corsair by contacting them directly I think.

Nice temps and welcome Typhoeus.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


If it's tight it should be fine (thats what *he* said!).


Between you and PCSarge Im just rofl


----------



## Killhouse

Pull yourself together man, or push/pull yourself together for better results.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Pull yourself together man, or push/pull yourself together for better results.


scary... i changed my TJ max on coretemp to intel's spec of 74C... and my reading stopped being stuck at 41... it now reads 15C







is it right or am i giggling like a schoolgirl for nothing?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


giggling like a schoolgirl for nothing


Yep, unless you're living outside


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Yep, unless you're living outside










no... my pc is in a basement... intaking roughly 10C winter air seeping in through the concrete walls, so i think that justifies it lol i am sitting here with a sweater and a t-shirt underneath and i'm still cold

EDIT: maybe i should reboot and check bios temps to be sure?


----------



## Typhoeus

anywhere online that I can find a second set of screws for a pull fan? (I have a cold atm and my search skills seem highly impaired :| )


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Typhoeus*


anywhere online that I can find a second set of screws for a pull fan? (I have a cold atm and my search skills seem highly impaired :| )


assuming you live in the USA you can go to your local hardware store and pick some up for like a buck.

they are 6x32 1.25 inch screws


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Typhoeus*


anywhere online that I can find a second set of screws for a pull fan? (I have a cold atm and my search skills seem highly impaired :| )


GO TO HOME DEPOT OR A HARDWARE STORE!!!!!!

i'm tired of telling people that....sorry for the outburst


----------



## Typhoeus

lol the nearest hardware store is 45 miles from me, and I have no car atm. I won't be able to get there for 3-4 weeks so yea, I kinda need someplace online or I wouldn't have asked.


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Typhoeus*


lol the nearest hardware store is 45 miles from me, and I have no car atm. I won't be able to get there for 3-4 weeks so yea, I kinda need someplace online or I wouldn't have asked.


every town has a hardware store lol

where do you live?


----------



## Typhoeus

not every town has a hardware store, and no, I'm not telling you where I live. if you don't want to help, don't. but don't insult my intelligence for asking a simple question.


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Typhoeus*


not every town has a hardware store, and no, I'm not telling you where I live. if you don't want to help, don't. but don't insult my intelligence for asking a simple question.


lulz


----------



## David J.

Killhouse, thanks for the advice. I will contact them tomorrow. +rep

I got a second set of screws for a second fan easily at Lowes for like $1.25 or less (price is with tax included). Just like everyone else has said before, make sure they are 6-32 x 1-Â¼ and you will be good to go. I think I got like ten of them for that price.


----------



## shizdan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *David J.*


Killhouse, thanks for the advice. I will contact them tomorrow. +rep

I got a second set of screws for a second fan easily at Lowes for like $1.25 or less (price is with tax included). Just like everyone else has said before, make sure they are 6-32 x 1-Â¼ and you will be good to go. I think I got like ten of them for that price.


Are they called machine screws?


----------



## Typhoeus

for anyone that wants to get them online in the future:

http://www.deepsurplus.com/HOME/Mach...xide-Bag-of-25

a bit more than you need but there they are.


----------



## David J.

I honestly forgot, and I think the receipt is in the car, and the bag is gone. All I know is they came in a green bag, and are pretty similar to the ones that came with the H50.


----------



## shizdan

Also my setup comes tommorow. Im going to be doing push pull but i am confused to how I should set it up.

Ex. Making all the fans blow into the case. Back Of Case Fan>Rad>Fan Case inside
Ex. Making all the Fans exhaust out the back Back Of Case<Fan<Rad<Fan

Ill be using R4 fans


----------



## Typhoeus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shizdan*


Also my setup comes tommorow. Im going to be doing push pull but i am confused to how I should set it up.

Ex. Making all the fans blow into the case. Back Of Case Fan>Rad>Fan Case inside
Ex. Making all the Fans exhaust out the back Back Of Case<Fan<Rad<Fan

Ill be using R4 fans



in my antec I currently have my single GT blowing toward the front and my two front fans blowing toward the back, so less than optimum. I don't think it matters which way you do it as long as your case temp isn't too high initially. I'll be switching my front fans to exhaust as soon as my fresh win7 finishes dling from MSDN.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Typhoeus* 
not every town has a hardware store, and no, I'm not telling you where I live. if you don't want to help, don't. but don't insult my intelligence for asking a simple question.

wow talk about an uptight individual, as if we're going to go to his house and steal his pc or something lulz









EDIT: i found out why my sensors sit at 41... their "stuck" there and wont drop lower, coretemp confirms this on a sensor test wish there was a way to fix it... seems alot of duo and quad core cpus have this problem according to intel's website, and i'm not about to RMA and wait 6 weeks


----------



## shizdan

I should rephrase my question. Should I mount my fans as

-Intake Fan-> Rad Fan->
-Exhaust <-Fan Rad<-Fan


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shizdan*


I should rephrase my question. Should I mount my fans as

-Intake Fan-> Rad Fan->
-Exhaust <-Fan Rad<-Fan


I would set it up as exhaust. Your case has a exhuast fan up top right? If so you can try both ways. For me exhaust worked better.


----------



## PCSarge

eeeh bad news... i think my mobo or processor died, my board doesnt POST at all when i turn it on, i tried resetting by killing power and removing battery, will leave it overnight then try again in the morning, if its dead, then i hafta go shopping for parts when i have money again....back to square 1....oh and i must add in that removing my graphics card proves to be impossible... i think its somehow melted itself into the slot ( possibly cause i had it OC'd) god dam these mobos with no listed spec sheets >.< i am now limited to my slower (and very annoying) toshiba laptop looks like i may be out of the folding race for a few weeks


----------



## chatch15117

What do you guys think about this fan for my H50? The static pressure is 3.90mmH20







.

Would you choose 90CFM/3.04mmH20 or 77CFM/3.90mmH20?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chatch15117*


What do you guys think about this fan for my H50? The static pressure is 3.90mmH20







.

Would you choose 90CFM/3.04mmH20 or 77CFM/3.90mmH20?


90cfm, more air will make it through the rad, though a lower static pressure


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


eeeh bad news... i think my mobo or processor died, my board doesnt POST at all when i turn it on, i tried resetting by killing power and removing battery, will leave it overnight then try again in the morning, if its dead, then i hafta go shopping for parts when i have money again....back to square 1....oh and i must add in that removing my graphics card proves to be impossible... i think its somehow melted itself into the slot ( possibly cause i had it OC'd) god dam these mobos with no listed spec sheets >.< i am now limited to my slower (and very annoying) toshiba laptop looks like i may be out of the folding race for a few weeks


Dammit, that sucks. Leave it over night and see. But Are you sure your card is "MELTED" in the PCI-E slot??


----------



## chatch15117

I'm seeing a discrepancy between these cooler master fans on various websites. On newegg, the red model says 90CFM, and the blue one says 69CFM. But on this website and a couple others, it's at 90CFM.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chatch15117* 
I'm seeing a discrepancy between these cooler master fans on various websites. On newegg, the red model says 90CFM, and the blue one says 69CFM. But on this website and a couple others, it's at 90CFM.









Checked the Cooler Master Site? They should have the accurate data...


----------



## Chicken Patty

Woot, idle temp got as low as 28Âºc


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chatch15117* 
What do you guys think about this fan for my H50? The static pressure is 3.90mmH20







.

Would you choose 90CFM/3.04mmH20 or 77CFM/3.90mmH20?

I was looking for those, but none of the local places has stock. So I went for the R4's.

2 of those in push/pull should work really nice.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
eeeh bad news... i think my mobo or processor died, my board doesnt POST at all when i turn it on, i tried resetting by killing power and removing battery, will leave it overnight then try again in the morning, if its dead, then i hafta go shopping for parts when i have money again....back to square 1....oh and i must add in that removing my graphics card proves to be impossible... i think its somehow melted itself into the slot ( possibly cause i had it OC'd) god dam these mobos with no listed spec sheets >.< i am now limited to my slower (and very annoying) toshiba laptop looks like i may be out of the folding race for a few weeks

You need to short the battery, no point taking it just out. Use the jumper provided.

Did you release the hold down thingy at the end of the PCIe slot?


----------



## Willhemmens

Just woke and read all this, have fun last night did we all?

PCSarge, I did not know about shipping Tax, I was thinking they might have a shop over there or something.

I also sadly do not have my Modded H50 anymore, had to let it go so i can hopefully get this Full motherboard waterblock I have EK working on.

Im trying to think of ways we could do it for cheaper..

Perhaps you drain the fluid out of the thing (reducing weight), send it to me, i Mod it, send it back.

Although i really dont know the way the system works.

If you think of anything, let me know.


----------



## alayoubi

which is better ,

Make the push fan faster than the pull fan OR both at the same speed ?


----------



## luke997

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Typhoeus*


for anyone that wants to get them online in the future:

http://www.deepsurplus.com/HOME/Mach...xide-Bag-of-25

a bit more than you need but there they are.


Good idea.

As I've spent some time to look for the screws in the UK - here's the link to what I got - unfortunately couldn't find anything in black but they do the job









http://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/cata...b2d4c2736e596f

And with accessories:
http://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/cata...b2d4c2736e596f


----------



## sintricate

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alayoubi*


which is better ,

Make the push fan faster than the pull fan OR both at the same speed ?


I could be wrong but I would want them going at the highest speed possible or at least match.


----------



## alayoubi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sintricate*


I could be wrong but I would want them going at the highest speed possible or at least match.


Thanks alot , any other opinions !


----------



## JMT668

I'm thinking of getting one of these for my sig rig.

With 2 Orange Xigmatek fans in push pull on the back of my case what do you guys think?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Dammit, that sucks. Leave it over night and see. But Are you sure your card is "MELTED" in the PCI-E slot??


well not melted physically, but stuck in it to the point it doesnt come out and no i didnt forget, the locking pin is bent so far back it cant be in it anymore, i tried getting it out it wont budge
that and the fact i dont believe its my cpu, because it still heats up when you start it, but system does not POST at all which means possibly if my mobo is trash, and my gfx card wont come off, it may hafta go with it


----------



## rickyman0319

HI. I want unlock x2 PII 550 temp @ 48 degree or below. I am wondering will this work or not.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103052
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103060

i use this R4 fan. i will use the fast rpm @ the front and the back of the rad and i will use the slow rpm btw fast rpm and the rad.

fast rpm (2000) -> slow rpm (1200) -> rad -> fast rpm (2000)

i am wondering will this work?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rickyman0319* 
HI. I want unlock x2 PII 550 temp @ 48 degree or below. I am wondering will this work or not.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103052
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103060

i use this R4 fan. i will use the fast rpm @ the front and the back of the rad and i will use the slow rpm btw fast rpm and the rad.

fast rpm (2000) -> slow rpm (1200) -> rad -> fast rpm (2000)

i am wondering will this work?

Gut the 1200 and make it into a shroud. If anything you will lose performance stacking two fans together and a load extra noise.


----------



## Jolido

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rickyman0319* 
i will use the fast rpm @ the front and the back of the rad and i will use the slow rpm btw fast rpm and the rad.

About the most confusing sentence ever made









Quote:

fast rpm (2000) -> slow rpm (1200) -> rad -> fast rpm (2000)
Putting a slow RPM in front of a fast RPM would be worse than just having a fast RPM.

What u can do is cutting the fan off the slow RPM fan and use the shell as a tunnel for the air between the first fan and the rad

Willhemmens beat me to it


----------



## PCSarge

ok people who knows how to remove a stuck GFX card.. and whn i say stuck the locking latch is bent back and the sucker is stuck in my mobo... it needs to be RMA'd as my mobo and cpu are fine, i plugged in my old 9600 gso into the second pci-e slot to test it

EDIT: nvm got it out lmao the pci-e slot had slightly melted to it.... never again will i OC an evga card.. .though they provide the tools to the good news is ill be up and running again shortly, slightly crippled by using my old GeForce 9600 GSO, bad news is, i'm now down 1 pci-e slot till i can afford a new gfx card/ mobo i also added a couple bad quality cellphone pics to show the damage to my 9800 gtx+


----------



## Killhouse

It wont work at all?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


It wont work at all?










unless you have a way to remove the plastic from the contacts on it, then no, it wont
and unless it can be fixed, i'm sitting out of folding till ican afford a new one


----------



## Killhouse

Oh, hmm, try scraping it off with a sharp needle. There's no harm in it if the slot is already broken.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alayoubi*


which is better ,

Make the push fan faster than the pull fan OR both at the same speed ?


I had better results pushing than pulling in my lifetime with fans on rads. So I would say put the strongest or better flowing fan pushing. But then again if the pull fan can't get as much air out if might create some sort of turublence or distortion in the air. You might want to try both ways and see which one works better.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


well not melted physically, but stuck in it to the point it doesnt come out and no i didnt forget, the locking pin is bent so far back it cant be in it anymore, i tried getting it out it wont budge
that and the fact i dont believe its my cpu, because it still heats up when you start it, but system does not POST at all which means possibly if my mobo is trash, and my gfx card wont come off, it may hafta go with it



Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


ok people who knows how to remove a stuck GFX card.. and whn i say stuck the locking latch is bent back and the sucker is stuck in my mobo... it needs to be RMA'd as my mobo and cpu are fine, i plugged in my old 9600 gso into the second pci-e slot to test it

EDIT: nvm got it out lmao the pci-e slot had slightly melted to it.... never again will i OC an evga card.. .though they provide the tools to the good news is ill be up and running again shortly, slightly crippled by using my old GeForce 9600 GSO, bad news is, i'm now down 1 pci-e slot till i can afford a new gfx card/ mobo i also added a couple bad quality cellphone pics to show the damage to my 9800 gtx+



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Oh, hmm, try scraping it off with a sharp needle. There's no harm in it if the slot is already broken.


That's some crazy stuff, I literally had one of my friends cousins video card go poooooof! We were still able to get it out. Good luck and hope you get'er fixed soon!


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Oh, hmm, try scraping it off with a sharp needle. There's no harm in it if the slot is already broken.


off the metal contacts on the card? you sure that'll work? if i can get it running again i save myself $120


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


off the metal contacts on the card? you sure that'll work? if i can get it running again i save myself $120


It's not running now, the worse that can happen is it doesn't run after either. Go for it!!


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Gut the 1200 and make it into a shroud. If anything you will lose performance stacking two fans together and a load extra noise.


it is better to buy a high cfm fan that is 90 then buy a fan with 70 cfm. will the high cfm fan lowered the temp alot or the same as 70 cfm does.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


It's not running now, the worse that can happen is it doesn't run after either. Go for it!!










RIGHT! NOONE CAN STONE ANYONE UNTIL I BLOW THIS WHISTLE UNDERSTAND!!?? EVEN AND I WANNA MAKE THIS ABSOLUTELY CLEAR!
EVEN IF THEY DO SAY JEHOVAH!

Copyright Monty Python circa 1983


----------



## Killhouse

Go for it, dont see how it could do any harm - just go carefully with it


----------



## dkev

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rickyman0319* 
it is better to buy a high cfm fan that is 90 then buy a fan with 70 cfm. will the high cfm fan lowered the temp alot or the same as 70 cfm does.

CFM won't do you a lot of good unless the fan can produce good static pressure. Xigi's and R4's produce monster static pressure and only make around 64cfm. I have used both on H50 with the R4's producing the best temps.


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dkev* 
CFM won't do you a lot of good unless the fan can produce good static pressure. Xigi's and R4's produce monster static pressure and only make around 64cfm. I have used both on H50 with the R4's producing the best temps.

what is the model with the good static pressure?


----------



## kcuestag

Hello!

After ordering my Sapphire HD5970 OC, I decided it was time to OC my Phenom II x4 965 BE C3 to give the 5970 some good performance.

I ordered the Corsair H5 here , Can you add me to the club?









I'll make some pictures once it arrives tomorrow ( I hope, altho probably not ) or Thursday ! I just hope it's easy to install lol, never installed any cooler on Pc, just the stock one







XD.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rickyman0319* 
it is better to buy a high cfm fan that is 90 then buy a fan with 70 cfm. will the high cfm fan lowered the temp alot or the same as 70 cfm does.

As your only running a 550 BE i dout you would notice much if anything.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Hello!

After ordering my Sapphire HD5970 OC, I decided it was time to OC my Phenom II x4 965 BE C3 to give the 5970 some good performance.

I ordered the Corsair H5 here , Can you add me to the club?









I'll make some pictures once it arrives tomorrow ( I hope, altho probably not ) or Thursday ! I just hope it's easy to install lol, never installed any cooler on Pc, just the stock one







XD.

You can Add yourself, just go the bottom of the list and Edit it.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
As your only running a 550 BE i dout you would notice much if anything.

You can Add yourself, just go the bottom of the list and Edit it.

LOL thanks, had no idea









Edit:

Anyways, how's the noise on this cooling H50 thingy? First time I try a liquid cooling, I have stock fan cooler atm which sux ass.

Edit2:

I can add my self, but then I can't see how to "save" it XD.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
LOL thanks, had no idea









Edit:

Anyways, how's the noise on this cooling H50 thingy? First time I try a liquid cooling, I have stock fan cooler atm which sux ass.

Edit2:

I can add my self, but then I can't see how to "save" it XD.

The Noise is good, but that depends on the fans, the stock Corsair fan is good...fast i mean, but loud its 2000 rpm,

But whack a couple of High-Airflow fans on there and its gonna get louder, i'd say its as loud as the fans you use, the unit itself makes almost no noise, i sometimes here what sounds like water/liquid.. but only sometimes, usually i have all fans up 100% so i cant here it over the GPU fans


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChosenLord* 
The Noise is good, but that depends on the fans, the stock Corsair fan is good...fast i mean, but loud its 2000 rpm,

But whack a couple of High-Airflow fans on there and its gonna get louder, i'd say its as loud as the fans you use, the unit itself makes almost no noise, i sometimes here what sounds like water/liquid.. but only sometimes, usually i have all fans up 100% so i cant here it over the GPU fans

Thanks for the info


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Go for it, dont see how it could do any harm - just go carefully with it









ill work on it when i'm home from work in 5 hrs







i already removed the heatsink so i could scrape at both sides thats about as far as i got... think a flat head mini screwdriver will work too? oh and my tower is up and working boots a bit slowly when youturn it on (obviously the card damaged something) so its slightly crippled, but stil lruns crysis on highest setting with no probs, ill invest in a new mobo and videocard later... than god asus makes quality mobos or id be done no doubt (not to say other companies dont, but asus is the only ones i really 100% trust atm)


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
LOL thanks, had no idea









Edit:

Anyways, how's the noise on this cooling H50 thingy? First time I try a liquid cooling, I have stock fan cooler atm which sux ass.

Edit2:

I can add my self, but then I can't see how to "save" it XD.

File > save and close

You wont appear straight away but within 5 mins.

Noise isnt bad, pumps pretty quite, as far as i can remember.


----------



## Typhoeus

My fan (gentle typhoon 1850rpm) is only a whisper and I can only hear my pump for a couple seconds after it turns on.


----------



## chatch15117

This is probably a nooby question, but what is the difference between the CWCH50 and CWCH50-1?

http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/Produc...odlist=froogle

http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/Produc...odlist=froogle


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chatch15117*


This is probably a nooby question, but what is the difference between the CWCH50 and CWCH50-1?

http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/Produc...odlist=froogle

http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/Produc...odlist=froogle


one has all the brackets, the other doesnt


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


ill work on it when i'm home from work in 5 hrs







i already removed the heatsink so i could scrape at both sides thats about as far as i got... think a flat head mini screwdriver will work too? oh and my tower is up and working boots a bit slowly when youturn it on (obviously the card damaged something) so its slightly crippled, but stil lruns crysis on highest setting with no probs, ill invest in a new mobo and videocard later... thank god asus makes quality mobos or id be done no doubt (not to say other companies dont, but asus is the only ones i really 100% trust atm)


lol bumps


----------



## Killhouse

Should be good, have a go and see what happens









Shame about your mobo :/


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Should be good, have a go and see what happens









Shame about your mobo :/

it stil lruns, which is good enough for now till i can afford it.. ill hafta find a better SLI 775 socket board though... possible with space for 3 way double thick cards xD


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


it stil lruns, which is good enough for now till i can afford it.. ill hafta find a better SLI 775 socket board though... possible with space for 3 way double thick cards xD


No warranty?

Also, im still trying to work out how that could have happened in the first place.


----------



## McLaren_F1

i just picked up some 2 x Cooler Master 120mm R4-L2R-20CR-GP and will setup a push/pull config.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


No warranty?

Also, im still trying to work out how that could have happened in the first place.


i dont know will, all i know is i was using my pc normally, and it melted itself into the slot a bit and shut my pc down..lol all i know is i got it out, and i hope i an scrape the plastic off and reuse it
i already e-mailed EVGA waiting for response


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i dont know will, all i know is i was using my pc normally, and it melted itself into the slot a bit and shut my pc down..lol all i know is i got it out, and i hope i an scrape the plastic off and reuse it
i already e-mailed EVGA waiting for response


Hmm, What about Asus?


----------



## kcuestag

Can't wait to get mine ( Should get it on Thursday 100% sure ).

But Im scared when I install the 5970 that some day it may leak and byebye all pc :/.

Is there any chance of that happening?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Hmm, What about Asus?


working on asus... pretty hard to find someone who speaks english in japan i guess? lol i sat for 3 hrs on hold then they hung up on me for no reason

EDIT: love you like a brother will though at a very great distance


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Can't wait to get mine ( Should get it on Thursday 100% sure ).

But Im scared when I install the 5970 that some day it may leak and byebye all pc :/.

Is there any chance of that happening? 


Yes. Although the chances of leaking are extremely low, much lower than a normal watercooling loop.

The chance is still there. What i would advice is before fitting, have a gentle pull on everything, twist the pipes and shake it abit. This process wouldnt be needed for eceryone but if your putting it over a 5970, its best to be safe.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


working on asus... pretty hard to find someone who speaks english in japan i guess? lol


When i messaged them about bioses for a M3A78 Pro, i got talking with them. They use a translator, that does work quite well. At the end i got a Modded bios from them that allowed me to Overvolt.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Yes. Although the chances of leaking are extremely low, much lower than a normal watercooling loop.

The chance is still there. What i would advice is before fitting, have a gentle pull on everything, twist the pipes and shake it abit. This process wouldnt be needed for eceryone but if your putting it over a 5970, its best to be safe.


Won't twisting it break it? o.o Shouldn't I just shake it? XDD.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Won't twisting it break it? o.o Shouldn't I just shake it? XDD.


No, its a strong system. Its better to be safe than sorry.

When i say twist the tubing, i mean twist each on its own, dont wind the unit up.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


No, its a strong system. Its better to be safe than sorry.

When i say twist the tubing, i mean twist each on its own, dont wind the unit up.


Hmmm ok I guess ill do that :/ altho scared to break it XD.


----------



## ellisd420

I got my new build and H50 set up. I think my temps are a little high.

Stock for now running i7 860, ati 5770, mid tower case. I have a 120mm fan intake in front, side 80mm intake, and the H50 push/pull exhaust. I am open to new H50 fans, but for now i'm set up as <-corsair<-Rad<-thermaltake 120mm (high output with manual adjustable speed dial which i have set to low. see little to no improvement when turned up to vacuum cleaner noise level)

I ran prime 95 last night for about an hour. Sorry at work now and dont have screen shot but core temps were: 68 71 73 70 on average at full load.

Idle temps are around high 30's. I would like to overclock this chip to about 3.8 or more. How does my headroom look? Do i need to make some adjustments?

Thanks for your input and expertise!


----------



## Typhoeus

that seems way high for stock speed. hell the stock i5 cooler was better than that at stock speeds. what thermal paste did you use, the stock paste? also, what are your ambient temps?


----------



## rickyman0319

i am wondering if i unlock the core PII X2 550 and use R4 (2000 @ 69CFM), will the temp be @ 48 degree or less when loaded.

also how can i check the static pression on the R4?


----------



## Shaman

I'm thinking of trading-in my Cooler Master V8 for one of these. Anyone have any experience with V8-to-H50 transitions? I would use two 133CFM 38mm ULTRA KAZE fans on the radiator. Also, how hard is it to remove the fittings on the piping/hoses, since I intend to place the radiator on the outside of the case? I don't want all the radiator real estate to cramp my motherboard and I think my VRM heatsink would get in the way, if I tried the standard back exhaust assembly at least.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Hmmm ok I guess ill do that :/ altho scared to break it XD.


Be gentle.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*


i am wondering if i unlock the core PII X2 550 and use R4 (2000 @ 69CFM), will the temp be @ 48 degree or less when loaded.

also how can i check the static pression on the R4?


Unlocking cores will make the chip run warmer. How much? Only you can tell us that. Depending on the clock and ambient, 48'c shouldnt be too much of a problem.

Does your 550 unlock?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shaman*


I'm thinking of trading-in my Cooler Master V8 for one of these. Anyone have any experience with V8-to-H50 transitions? I would use two 133CFM 38mm ULTRA KAZE fans on the radiator. Also, how hard is it to remove the fittings on the piping/hoses, since I intend to place the radiator on the outside of the case? I don't want all the radiator real estate to cramp my motherboard and I think my VRM heatsink would get in the way, if I tried the standard back exhaust assembly at least.


A member over at TPU "kei" posted some results and his were much better with the H50 than they were with the CM V8.

I don't think disassembling the unit is hard at all, there is tons of threads all over the net of how to do it and mod them, etc.


----------



## ellisd420

I'm using the stock paste on heatsink. As far as ambient temps, I will check tonight and post some screenies. I did think that those were too high. My options are re-seating and fooling with different fans I suppose.


----------



## Shaman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


A member over at TPU "kei" posted some results and his were much better with the H50 than they were with the CM V8.

I don't think disassembling the unit is hard at all, there is tons of threads all over the net of how to do it and mod them, etc.


Thanks, I will look for the info on TPU.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shaman*


I'm thinking of trading-in my Cooler Master V8 for one of these. Anyone have any experience with V8-to-H50 transitions? I would use two 133CFM 38mm ULTRA KAZE fans on the radiator. Also, how hard is it to remove the fittings on the piping/hoses, since I intend to place the radiator on the outside of the case? I don't want all the radiator real estate to cramp my motherboard and I think my VRM heatsink would get in the way, if I tried the standard back exhaust assembly at least.


I would imagen that the H50 with decent fans should beat the V8 by around 5'c but thats just a guess.

If you cut the Grills out of your Rear fan like you should, you should be able to just put the pump threw the hole. You may need to put some slots in for the tubes though.


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Be gentle.

Unlocking cores will make the chip run warmer. How much? Only you can tell us that. Depending on the clock and ambient, 48'c shouldnt be too much of a problem.

Does your 550 unlock?

right now my cpu is unlock and everytihng auto. i think right now my temp is @ 35 degree idles.


----------



## Shaman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
I would imagen that the H50 with decent fans should beat the V8 by around 5'c but thats just a guess.

If you cut the Grills out of your Rear fan like you should, you should be able to just put the pump threw the hole. You may need to put some slots in for the tubes though.

My Cosmos case already has pre-drilled and rubber-coated holes for tubes, courtesy of Cooler Master, as per photo below. I don't want to cut the grills yet. If removing and re-attaching the hoses is easier that is. Although, that would probably void the warranty.


----------



## ablearcher

I just bought one


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rickyman0319* 
right now my cpu is unlock and everytihng auto. i think right now my temp is @ 35 degree idles.

Ok, well temps shouldnt be bad.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shaman* 
My Cosmos case already has pre-drilled and rubber-coated holes for tubes, courtesy of Cooler Master, as per photo below. I don't want to cut the grills yet. If removing and re-attaching the hoses is easier that is. Although, that would probably void the warranty.










I see. If the tubes are long enough, which i think they should just about be, it should be do-able.

Do-able but Very difficult. Refilling would be a real pain, as there wouldnt be a very easy way of removing the air.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shaman* 
Thanks, I will look for the info on TPU.









I doubt it, but if I find any I'll send them via PM. He only had the H50 for a few days. He bought it at Best Buy and returned it towards putting credit for a new board which he needed. But the day or two he had it he was amazed!

PM him if anything, tell him I sent you to him and ask him what you need to ask him. If you aren't a member, join! It's a great community as well


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Yes. Although the chances of leaking are extremely low, much lower than a normal watercooling loop.

The chance is still there. What i would advice is before fitting, have a gentle pull on everything, twist the pipes and shake it abit. This process wouldnt be needed for eceryone but if your putting it over a 5970, its best to be safe.

When i messaged them about bioses for a M3A78 Pro, i got talking with them. They use a translator, that does work quite well. At the end i got a Modded bios from them that allowed me to Overvolt.









i wish...that it hadnt happened in the first place? lol


----------



## Shaman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
I doubt it, but if I find any I'll send them via PM. He only had the H50 for a few days. He bought it at Best Buy and returned it towards putting credit for a new board which he needed. But the day or two he had it he was amazed!

PM him if anything, tell him I sent you to him and ask him what you need to ask him. If you aren't a member, join! It's a great community as well









Alright, will do. By the way, I'm already a member (aka AddSub







)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
I see. If the tubes are long enough, which i think they should just about be, it should be do-able.

Do-able but Very difficult. Refilling would be a real pain, as there wouldnt be a very easy way of removing the air.

Yeah, I'm browsing Corsair's forums looking for info. Grill-cutting is starting to look more and more like the best option.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
i wish...that it hadnt happened in the first place? lol

Well, it happened and now you gotta fix it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shaman* 
Yeah, I'm browsing Corsair's forums looking for info. Grill-cutting is starting to look more and more like the best option.

Would be much easier.


----------



## kcuestag

Hmm be gentle... lol









Any chance of "testing" it without mounting it into the cpu? I first wanna see if it works properly :/ I really don't wanna ruin my 1k euro pc -.- Well more with 5970 XD


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Hmm be gentle... lol









Any chance of "testing" it without mounting it into the cpu? I first wanna see if it works properly :/ I really don't wanna ruin my 1k euro pc -.- Well more with 5970 XD


xD if i can mount it in a $2500 Canadian dollar pc, then you shouldnt be worried... mine has never leaked... and i've had the tubes doing some pretty tight bends


----------



## Fatalmistake

Add me to the list to please.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


xD if i can mount it in a $2500 Canadian dollar pc, then you shouldnt be worried... mine has never leaked... and i've had the tubes doing some pretty tight bends


Hmm I guess ill just install it then







Im just scared lol.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


xD if i can mount it in a $2500 Canadian dollar pc, then you shouldnt be worried... mine has never leaked... and i've had the tubes doing some pretty tight bends


Which $2500 Cad PC would that be?

Minds not worth that much, even with the watercooling.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fatalmistake*


Add me to the list to please.


Add you self. Just scroll to the bottom and edit it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Hmm be gentle... lol









Any chance of "testing" it without mounting it into the cpu? I first wanna see if it works properly :/ I really don't wanna ruin my 1k euro pc -.- Well more with 5970 XD


Just connect teh 3 pin pump connector up.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Which $2500 Cad PC would that be?

Minds not worth that much, even with the watercooling.

Add you self. Just scroll to the bottom and edit it.

Just connect teh 3 pin pump connector up.


Without the fan or with? Btw, like, the fan goes in any 3 pin connector, even to psu molex converter, but what about the pump, on which onnector does that one go?


----------



## shizdan

Before I put my new system together I would like to know something. Im going to be doing Push Pull and was wondering should I install the first 120MM Fan in the exhaust port, then instlal the motheroard then add in the RAd and second 120MM fan to the exhaust

or

Install motherboard, then install all 3 (Fan+rad+fan) to the back exhaust port.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shizdan*


Before I put my new system together I would like to know something. Im going to be doing Push Pull and was wondering should I install the first 120MM Fan in the exhaust port, then instlal the motheroard then add in the RAd and second 120MM fan to the exhaust

or

Install motherboard, then install all 3 (Fan+rad+fan) to the back exhaust port.


What you mean by "push pull"? I bought an H50 and was planning to keep it with the stock fan that brings the H50, I don't even know how to install it but on Caseking.de there's a english video explaning how ^^.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Without the fan or with? Btw, like, the fan goes in any 3 pin connector, even to psu molex converter, but what about the pump, on which onnector does that one go?


Its recommended by me and many others to run the pump off a Molex to 3 pin converter to ensure the pump runs at the fastest it can, all the time.

You can the H50 out of the case without the fan.

Everything i have said will come clear when it arrives.


----------



## Typhoeus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


What you mean by "push pull"? I bought an H50 and was planning to keep it with the stock fan that brings the H50, I don't even know how to install it but on Caseking.de there's a english video explaning how ^^.


push/pull= 1 fan behind the radiator pushing air through it, and one in front pulling air out of it, to get a greater movement of air.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*   Its recommended by me and many others to run the pump off a Molex to 3 pin converter to ensure the pump runs at the fastest it can, all the time.

You can the H50 out of the case without the fan.

Everything i have said will come clear when it arrives.  
Thanks for the help! I really appreciate it ^^!

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *Typhoeus*   push/pull= 1 fan behind the radiator pushing air through it, and one in front pulling air out of it, to get a greater movement of air.  
Oh, will it be fine with the stock fan? And should I install it "inside" the case like in    
 YouTube- How to install the Corsair Coolingâ„¢ Hydro Series H50 CPU cooler (German)  



 
 ?

Damn, im so nervous, i don't even know if I have to remove my blue socket thingy where the stock cooler is mounted on, lol.


----------



## sata_mata

Shaman,I'll let you use my dremel for little fee


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Thanks for the help! I really appreciate it ^^!

Oh, will it be fine with the stock fan? And should I install it "inside" the case like in YouTube- How to install the Corsair Coolingâ„¢ Hydro Series H50 CPU cooler (German) ?

Damn, im so nervous, i don't even know if I have to remove my blue socket thingy where the stock cooler is mounted on, lol.

I will all become clear after reading the instructions. Its really not difficult.

For the time being, the stock fan shuold do and you can just mount it in your case.


----------



## Shaman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sata_mata* 
Shaman,I'll let you use my dremel for little fee









You got it!









Although, now that I think about it a simple metal cutting shears could do the job. Basically, I could just snip the links on the metal mesh, one by one, all the way around. Less mess that way than if I did it with a dremel which would spew metal particles all over.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shaman* 
You got it!









Although, now that I think about it a simple metal cutting shears could do the job. Basically, I could just snip the links on the metal mesh, one by one, all the way around. Less mess that way than if I did it with a dremel which would spew metal particles all over.

Exactly the way i did it.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
I will all become clear after reading the instructions. Its really not difficult.

For the time being, the stock fan shuold do and you can just mount it in your case.

Right, thanks a lot







I'll post back once it arrives


----------



## kcuestag

LOL...

Some people told me im stupid for choosing a H50 since a good air cooler, cheaper, will do a better job :/ ***...

Is that true  ?

i thought H50 would be MUCH better


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
LOL...

Some people told me im stupid for choosing a H50 since a good air cooler, cheaper, will do a better job :/ ***...

Is that true  ?

i thought H50 would be MUCH better

H50's as good or better than a MegaHalem.

Normally quiter too.

The people you ask or are talking to, do they own a H50 and a top air cooler?

If not, they dont know what they are talking about. H50 cools about 11'c better than a Xigmatek S1283 in Push/pull. Tried and tested by myself.


----------



## Shaman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
LOL...

Some people told me im stupid for choosing a H50 since a good air cooler, cheaper, will do a better job :/ ***...

Is that true  ?

i thought H50 would be MUCH better


Well, I don't think H50 is a huge improvement over high-end coolers, but what you should take into account is that with a high-end air cooler huge amounts of heat are retained within the case/enclosure, even with great case airflow. That is why I intend to mount my H50 radiator outside. The only thing inside will be the CPU block and some tubing. I mean, my V8 cooler is great and I got a pretty good airflow setup so the hot air gets exhausted quickly. However, with a V8 I still have a massive super-heated chunk of metal sitting in my case, raising my ambient temps and heating up every other component.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
H50's as good or better than a MegaHalem.

Normally quiter too.

The people you ask or are talking to, do they own a H50 and a top air cooler?

If not, they dont know what they are talking about. H50 cools about 11'c better than a Xigmatek S1283.

WoW, I was about to get one of those Xigmateks









Well, then I feel better now, thanks.

So when it comes, I should just put it on the desk without fan ( Keep stock cpu cooler on ofc ) and connect it thru molex-to-3pin and just turn pc see if it leaks water?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
LOL...

Some people told me im stupid for choosing a H50 since a good air cooler, cheaper, will do a better job :/ ***...

Is that true  ?

i thought H50 would be MUCH better

Depends on which air cooler they are talking about. There's only a couple air coolers out right now that will possibly beat the H50. But they are pretty large, put stress on the motherboard and give you no room to work inside your case and will typically have/require loud high-speed fans to compete or do slightly better.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
WoW, I was about to get one of those Xigmateks









Well, then I feel better now, thanks.

So when it comes, I should just put it on the desk without fan ( Keep stock cpu cooler on ofc ) and connect it thru molex-to-3pin and just turn pc see if it leaks water?

Yeah but I would happily bet you it wont leak.

1066 posts!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Yeah but I would happily bet you it wont leak.

Well I heard out of all members here only 1 person had a problem and was after loooong time, and they paid all damaged caused, so dont think ill get a broken one







But just in case will try it on the desk xD.


----------



## DevilGear44

Just installed an H50.

Phenom II X4 940 @ stock = 34*c idle

...That 'bout right?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Well I heard out of all members here only 1 person had a problem and was after loooong time, and they paid all damaged caused, so dont think ill get a broken one







But just in case will try it on the desk xD.


Yeah, Corsairs good like that, as far as i know it only happened too two people total, Both got thier hardware replaced.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*


Just installed an H50.

Phenom II X4 940 @ stock = 34*c idle

...That 'bout right?










Whats you Ambient, CPU clock, CPU-NB clock and voltages?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Yeah, Corsairs good like that, as far as i know it only happened too two people total, Both got thier hardware replaced.

Whats you Ambient, CPU clock, CPU-NB clock and voltages?


WOW that's a nice customer support service....

Also wondering:

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthre...t=81044&page=6

Im guessing/hoping the one I ordered here does contain the AMD bracket so I can install it on my rig?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


H50's as good or better than a MegaHalem.

Normally quiter too.

The people you ask or are talking to, do they own a H50 and a top air cooler?

If not, they dont know what they are talking about. H50 cools about 11'c better than a Xigmatek S1283 in Push/pull. Tried and tested by myself.


I can second this.

My H50 out performed my Xigmatek S126384 Thor's Hammer by 10c. Best investment Ive every made. I would be very hard pushed (or pulled) to go back to air cooling


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DevilGear44*


Just installed an H50.

Phenom II X4 940 @ stock = 34*c idle

...That 'bout right?










yeah, depending on ambient, yes it is about right.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


I can second this.

My H50 out performed my Xigmatek S126384 Thor's Hammer by 10c. Best investment Ive every made. I would be very hard pushed (or pulled) to go back to air cooling










My H50 has outperformed my Mega as well by a good 4-5Âºc


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


WOW that's a nice customer support service....

Also wondering:

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthre...t=81044&page=6

Im guessing/hoping the one I ordered here does contain the AMD bracket so I can install it on my rig?


Yeah, the site says it comes with AM2 and AM3 mounting kit and shows it in the photos.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


I can second this.

My H50 out performed my Xigmatek S126384 Thor's Hammer by 10c. Best investment Ive every made. I would be very hard pushed (or pulled) to go back to air cooling










Always liked the look of the Thor's hammers, beefy and the design of the heatpipes kind of made sence.


----------



## whoisron

Just wondering guys if most of you have your h50fans set to be automatically throttled and monitored by your motherboard or do most of you have your fans set at 100%? Im not talking about the radiator fan either I have that set on 100%.

Also was just wondering if those of you who have push / pull setup if your using a Y splitter cable and plugging the 3 pin into the mb? is it better to use a y splitter cable for push / pull setup that way you can ensure the same voltage? or should I just plug them into the MB seperately? thanks. Also if you use the y splitter the mb doesn't throttle speed is it just set at 100%?

thanks for the help guys!


----------



## kcuestag

Sounds good









Now my last question for today ( Yeah, there were too many maybe, sorry ), will one of these fans be compatible with the H50?

I heard the Push / Pull ( Let's say the default Corsair fan outside taking air OUT of the case, and the xigmatek inside aswell taking air through the radiator to the outside of the case ) will give better temperatures, is it worth doing such? if so, those xigmatek will work? I have 1 spare which im not using right now.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


My H50 has outperformed my Mega as well by a good 4-5Âºc


It continually surprises me how much this cooler cops flack.

We are all after the best performance vs cost for our PCs. Do people really think that if we where not seeing great temps we would continue to use this cooler?

We cant *all *be fanboys and girls. The H50 is popular for a reason... it just works. If it didnt, I know I would not continue to use it.

/rant off









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*

Always liked the look of the Thor's hammers, beefy and the design of the heatpipes kind of made sence


Beefy indeed AND heavy... I still have a soft spot for it. <but Im not going back>
 








Quote:



Originally Posted by *Whoisron*

Just wondering guys if most of you have your h50fans set to be automatically throttled and monitored by your motherboard or do most of you have your fans set at 100%? *Im not talking about the radiator fan either *I have that set on 100%.

Also was just wondering if those of you who have push / pull setup if your using a Y splitter cable and plugging the 3 pin into the mb? is it better to use a y splitter cable for push / pull setup that way you can ensure the same voltage? or should I just plug them into the MB seperately? thanks. Also if you use the y splitter the mb doesn't throttle speed is it just set at 100%?

thanks for the help guys!


Which fans are you taking about?? <see bold text in your quote>

I have all my rad fans and pump powered from seperate mobo headers, so I can monitor fan speeds.

They are set to 100%.

I can see the logic behind the Y splitters and I do use them for the case fans.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kcuestag*

Now my last question for today ( Yeah, there were too many maybe, sorry ), will one of these fans be compatible with the H50?
I heard the Push / Pull ( Let's say the default Corsair fan outside taking air OUT of the case, and the xigmatek inside aswell taking air through the radiator to the outside of the case ) will give better temperatures, is it worth doing such? if so, those xigmatek will work? I have 1 spare which im not using right now.


I think that fan is about 61 cfm, mind you, I dont speak German







Its a nice fan but you can do better for a rad fan. If its spare, by all means use it and upgrade the fan later









Push/pull exhaust is proving a superior method of cooling. Using some shrouds will help your temps further.

Use the Xiggy fan as push and the Cosair as pull.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Sounds good









Now my last question for today ( Yeah, there were too many maybe, sorry ), will one of these fans be compatible with the H50?

I heard the Push / Pull ( Let's say the default Corsair fan outside taking air OUT of the case, and the xigmatek inside aswell taking air through the radiator to the outside of the case ) will give better temperatures, is it worth doing such? if so, those xigmatek will work? I have 1 spare which im not using right now.


Those Xiggys will work just fine. Good looking fans.

Now someone else can tell him where to put the powerful fan, im too tired to remember or think about it.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Those Xiggys will work just fine. Good looking fans.

Now someone else can tell him where to put the powerful fan, im too tired to remember or think about it.


Ok cool! Thanks









About powerful fan, I don't even know which one is more powerful, the corsair or the Xigmatek @ 1500RPM.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Ok cool! Thanks









About powerful fan, I don't even know which one is more powerful, the corsair or the Xigmatek @ 1500RPM.


If its a 1500RPM, they will probabley be about the same so it shouldnt matter too much. If i were you though, i would put the Xiggy pushing air in, simply because it would look nicer.

Sethy, +1.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


If its a 1500RPM, they will probabley be about the same so it shouldnt matter too much. If i were you though, i would put the Xiggy pushing air in, simply because it would look nicer.

Sethy, +1.


By "pushing air in", you mean put the Xigmatek inside pushing air into the radiator ( So taking air out the case ) ?


----------



## shizdan

Since Im doing push/pull. I checked corsairs page and they said I need the screws but when I opened up the H50's packaging it also contained washers....do I need more washers as well?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


By "pushing air in", you mean put the Xigmatek inside pushing air into the radiator ( So taking air out the case ) ?


Yeah, thats right.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shizdan*


Since Im doing push/pull. I checked corsairs page and they said I need the screws but when I opened up the H50's packaging it also contained washers....do I need more washers as well?


The washers on the screws to mount the fans on are to stop the screw heads going though the wholes on the fan. Aslong as the screw head is decently bigger, you shouldnt need them.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shizdan*


Since Im doing push/pull. I checked corsairs page and they said I need the screws but when I opened up the H50's packaging it also contained washers....do I need more washers as well?


yes you do... it keeps the small screw heads from passong through the fan mounting holes

listen to the girl with the crippled pc, because i revived it this morning xD


----------



## shizdan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


yes you do... it keeps the small screw heads from passong through the fan mounting holes

listen to the girl with the crippled pc, because i revived it this morning xD


Well I tried putting the screws through my R4 fans and they fit perfectly and im confident they are not gonna go through the fans holes.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


It continually surprises me how much this cooler cops flack.

We are all after the best performance vs cost for our PCs. Do people really think that if we where not seeing great temps we would continue to use this cooler?

We cant *all *be fanboys and girls. The H50 is popular for a reason... it just works. If it didnt, I know I would not continue to use it.

/rant off









Beefy indeed AND heavy... I still have a soft spot for it. <but Im not going back>










amen to that


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shizdan*


Well I tried putting the screws through my R4 fans and they fit perfectly and im confident they are not gonna go through the fans holes.


No need for Washers then.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


amen to that










Yeah, I might in a few years, buy one and put it on my wall. I do wish i had one.

Got any photos of her?


----------



## shizdan

any H50 vets want to tell me what has been the verdict with the H50 as far as fan directions.

Should I have them both blowing into the case or out the back exhaust port?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shizdan*


any H50 vets want to tell me what has been the verdict with the H50 as far as fan directions.

Should I have them both blowing into the case or out the back exhaust port?


Exhaust... both fans blowing OUT of the case seems to work best.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*

Yeah, I might in a few years, buy one and put it on my wall. I do wish i had one. Got any photos of her?


Wait... what? photos of who??


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Wait... what? photos of who??










You know, Thor.


----------



## whoisron

Which fans are you taking about?? <see bold text in your quote>

I have all my rad fans and pump powered from seperate mobo headers, so I can monitor fan speeds.

They are set to 100%.

I can see the logic behind the Y splitters and I do use them for the case fans.

I think that fan is about 61 cfm, mind you, I dont speak German







Its a nice fan but you can do better for a rad fan. If its spare, by all means use it and upgrade the fan later









Push/pull exhaust is proving a superior method of cooling. Using some shrouds will help your temps further.

Use the Xiggy fan as push and the Cosair as pull.[/QUOTE]

oh yah oops i was talking about the rad fan not the pump fan, my bad







im still new to building a comp and the corsair h50. =/


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


You know, Thor.


Ohhhh....

Here ya go... benching pics


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


No need for Washers then.

Yeah, I might in a few years, buy one and put it on my wall. I do wish i had one.

Got any photos of her?


of the Mega?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Ohhhh....

Here ya go... benching pics










Twice as thick as i remember it.
Very nice









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


of the Mega?


Go for it if you got em.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Twice as thick as i remember it.
Very nice









Go for it if you got em.

Here you go:


----------



## shizdan

We have issues. The bracket where I put the plastic pieces then the screws through...well i put them in the wrong way and now they are stuck!

Im talking about the plastc peices that house the screws

I jsut figured how to get them out finally!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shizdan* 
We have issues. The bracket where I put the plastic pieces then the screws through...well i put them in the wrong way and now they are stuck!

Its stuck on the mobo with the double sided tape?

Try lifting it off with constant pressure, pulling up as you go. You can use a hair dryer too, if you have one. Apply the heat to the tape as you are pulling it up.

Dont use anything metal as a lever.

Addit: okay... nvm


----------



## Sethy666

We all know that when selecting fans, we need to take the manufactures specs with a grain of salt. I received an email from my PC parts supplier today that further highlights the old axiom *"Caveat emptor"* or let the buyer beware

I ordered what I thought to be CM R4-L2R-20CK-GPs. When I inspected them, the model number indicated A12025-20RB-3BN-F1. When I queried this with my suppler, I received the below email...

_Good morning ,

I can confirm that the A12025-20RB-3BN-F1 and the R4-L2R-20CK-GP fans are one and the same.

Coolermaster had originally used optimal theoretical numbers as their quoted rating of 90 CFM, however extensive external testing by review sites and individual users has shown the real world figure to be closer to 70CFM. CoolerMaster have since distanced themselves from the original numbers by renaming the fans (from Silent LED to SickleFlow) and using the lower CFM figure in their current product listings.

Current supplies in Australia still feature the original packaging, so as to minimise confusion - we had kept the original product listing specifications to match the packaging.

I have now updated the specifications on our website, hopefully to alleviate any additional confusion surrounding this convoluted matter._

So, in short, the R4 at 90cfm do not exist and those that are using them are actually getting 70 cfm...

As for me, Ive asked for a refund which Ive been promised, will be honoured.


----------



## chatch15117

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


We all know that when selecting fans, we need to take the manufactures specs with a grain of salt. I received an email from my PC parts supplier today that further highlights the old axiom *"Caveat emptor"* or let the buyer beware

I ordered what I thought to be CM R4-L2R-20CK-GPs. When I inspected them, the model number indicated A12025-20RB-3BN-F1. When I queried this with my suppler, I received the below email...

_Good morning ,

I can confirm that the A12025-20RB-3BN-F1 and the R4-L2R-20CK-GP fans are one and the same.

Coolermaster had originally used optimal theoretical numbers as their quoted rating of 90 CFM, however extensive external testing by review sites and individual users has shown the real world figure to be closer to 70CFM. CoolerMaster have since distanced themselves from the original numbers by renaming the fans (from Silent LED to SickleFlow) and using the lower CFM figure in their current product listings.

Current supplies in Australia still feature the original packaging, so as to minimise confusion â€" we had kept the original product listing specifications to match the packaging.

I have now updated the specifications on our website, hopefully to alleviate any additional confusion surrounding this convoluted matter._

So, in short, the R4 at 90cfm do not exist and those that are using them are actually getting 70 cfm...

As for me, Ive asked for a refund which Ive been promised, will be honoured.


Thank you for clearing this up! I ended up getting two blade masters from newegg.

+1


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Ohhhh....

Here ya go... benching pics










sethy, what name of powerful air cooler?









thanks!


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


We all know that when selecting fans, we need to take the manufactures specs with a grain of salt. I received an email from my PC parts supplier today that further highlights the old axiom *"Caveat emptor"* or let the buyer beware

I ordered what I thought to be CM R4-L2R-20CK-GPs. When I inspected them, the model number indicated A12025-20RB-3BN-F1. When I queried this with my suppler, I received the below email...

_Good morning ,

I can confirm that the A12025-20RB-3BN-F1 and the R4-L2R-20CK-GP fans are one and the same.

Coolermaster had originally used optimal theoretical numbers as their quoted rating of 90 CFM, however extensive external testing by review sites and individual users has shown the real world figure to be closer to 70CFM. CoolerMaster have since distanced themselves from the original numbers by renaming the fans (from Silent LED to SickleFlow) and using the lower CFM figure in their current product listings.

Current supplies in Australia still feature the original packaging, so as to minimise confusion - we had kept the original product listing specifications to match the packaging.

I have now updated the specifications on our website, hopefully to alleviate any additional confusion surrounding this convoluted matter._

So, in short, the R4 at 90cfm do not exist and those that are using them are actually getting 70 cfm...

As for me, Ive asked for a refund which Ive been promised, will be honoured.


I wouldn't be so concerned. Seriously, manufacturers lie about their specs all the time. And even if they didn't, they would want to show their product in the best light. That means CFM specs would always be measured in open air. For our purposes how well they perform with the rad is more important than a number they tag to it. IMO it still is a very good performer with a good sound signature that is easy to live with.


----------



## PCSarge

you boys (as in will, sethy, and killhouse) get the honor of choosing which mobo i buy, ill post a link to the list of 775 board from the store thats an hour drive away, you guys tell me which is wirth the money, id like a 3 way SLI, but if it has no PCI slots then i cant use it, fir this pc is on a wireless N PCI adapter

have fun, heres the link:http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...asp?CatId=1533

i expect some posts back within the next little while knowing you guys, i am not buying another P5N-D, so dont suggest it for there is not enough space for double thickness cards to be close enough to SLI


----------



## PCSarge

i must also say, this P5N-D is hanging on like a trooper, with a dead PCI-E 2.0 slot cause of the vid card and is still running pretty normal (other than the boot to post screen being a bit laggy)


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
We all know that when selecting fans, we need to take the manufactures specs with a grain of salt. I received an email from my PC parts supplier today that further highlights the old axiom *"Caveat emptor"* or let the buyer beware

I ordered what I thought to be CM R4-L2R-20CK-GPs. When I inspected them, the model number indicated A12025-20RB-3BN-F1. When I queried this with my suppler, I received the below email...

_Good morning ,

I can confirm that the A12025-20RB-3BN-F1 and the R4-L2R-20CK-GP fans are one and the same.

Coolermaster had originally used optimal theoretical numbers as their quoted rating of 90 CFM, however extensive external testing by review sites and individual users has shown the real world figure to be closer to 70CFM. CoolerMaster have since distanced themselves from the original numbers by renaming the fans (from Silent LED to SickleFlow) and using the lower CFM figure in their current product listings.

Current supplies in Australia still feature the original packaging, so as to minimise confusion â€" we had kept the original product listing specifications to match the packaging.

I have now updated the specifications on our website, hopefully to alleviate any additional confusion surrounding this convoluted matter._

So, in short, the R4 at 90cfm do not exist and those that are using them are actually getting 70 cfm...

As for me, Ive asked for a refund which Ive been promised, will be honoured.

Thanks for posting this. This will serve well to many I'm sure.







+1 rep


----------



## whoisron

sorry i got a response but wasn't too sure, if i plan to use push / pull setup should i setup my 2 fans cooling the radiator on a y splitter or put them in seperate slots / bases in the MB? will using y splitter ensure 100% synchronized output compared to using seperate bases?

Thanks guys.


----------



## McLaren_F1

Ive remounted my H50 and used R4-L2R-20CR-GP for fans

Heres some pictures:



Hopefully my temps will drop down a bit


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
sethy, what name of powerful air cooler?









thanks!

Its a Xigmatek S126284 - Thor's Hammer.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
you boys (as in will, sethy, and killhouse) get the honor of choosing which mobo i buy, ill post a link to the list of 775 board from the store thats an hour drive away, you guys tell me which is wirth the money, id like a 3 way SLI, but if it has no PCI slots then i cant use it, fir this pc is on a wireless N PCI adapter

have fun, heres the link:http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...asp?CatId=1533

i expect some posts back within the next little while knowing you guys, i am not buying another P5N-D, so dont suggest it for there is not enough space for double thickness cards to be close enough to SLI

Thanks for honour








Id go Gigabyte EP45T-UD3LR , if thats the only choice. If you want SLI, you;ll need the EP45T-UD3P model - it had duel PCI-e slots. The others only have one slot.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Whoisron*
sorry i got a response but wasn't too sure, if i plan to use push / pull setup should i setup my 2 fans cooling the radiator on a y splitter or put them in seperate slots / bases in the MB? will using y splitter ensure 100% synchronized output compared to using seperate bases?

By all means try the Y splitters in the one slot. Just make sure the load is not to high for the mobo header.


----------



## tjmagneto

Besides CFMs I look at the noise levels since my PC is in the living room. You talk about fudging numbers. Just for kicks I bought some Thermaltake fans from my local Radio Shack since they claimed to be 21 dba @ 2000 rpm. Yeah, right, that was the day I learned about TTs reputation on noise ratings.









The Noiseblockers I have strapped to my H50 are way quieter yet are rated at 27 dba @ 1800 rpm. Push/pull intake going into a CM ATCS 840.


----------



## Chunderface

Hey all, my H50 is arrive in the mail today/tomorrow and I just wanna know 2 things. =]

1. For a 1 fan setup, is it better for the corsair fan push or pull the air?

2. For a push/pull setup, what is the best place for my 1 fan shroud?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Its a Xigmatek S126284 - Thor's Hammer.

Thanks for honour








Id go Gigabyte EP45T-UD3LR , if thats the only choice. If you want SLI, you;ll need the EP45T-UD3P model - it had duel PCI-e slots. The others only have one slot.

By all means try the Y splitters in the one slot. Just make sure the load is not to high for the mobo header.

failed to mention sethy, needs to be a DDR2 mobo, i only have 8gb of PC6400


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chunderface* 
Hey all, my H50 is arrive in the mail today/tomorrow and I just wanna know 2 things. =]

1. For a 1 fan setup, is it better for the corsair fan push or pull the air?

2. For a push/pull setup, what is the best place for my 1 fan shroud?

For some odd reason with one fan I got better results having the fan intake rather than exhausting. However, when push and pull I got better results with both exhausting.


----------



## Chunderface

Thanks but that still doesn't really answer my questions lol. I'm having it as exhaust but is it better to have the fan push air through the radiator, or pull air through it.

and 2nd question is for shroud placement.


----------



## shizdan

Well I am running mine like so

<-Fan Rad<-Fan With 2 Cooler Master R4's

Q9550 At 3.8 idle at 32c and load 69c with intel burn test 5 runs as of now.

1.32V Load Line On and 1.35V in bios.

Is that bad?


----------



## Jolido

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
you boys (as in will, sethy, and killhouse) get the honor of choosing which mobo i buy, ill post a link to the list of 775 board from the store thats an hour drive away, you guys tell me which is wirth the money, id like a 3 way SLI, but if it has no PCI slots then i cant use it, fir this pc is on a wireless N PCI adapter

i expect some posts back within the next little while knowing you guys, i am not buying another P5N-D, so dont suggest it for there is not enough space for double thickness cards to be close enough to SLI

The only 3-way SLI card with DDR2 ram is the evga 780i I think and that wont leave u with a pci slot for a wireless card (with 3 thick gfxcards that is)

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...462&CatId=3495


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


failed to mention sethy, needs to be a DDR2 mobo, i only have 8gb of PC6400


Do you have any prefered makes, chipsets, sli ability or price ranges?

Will be around to answer questions in a few hours.


----------



## kcuestag

Morning!









Damn it won't arrive today







The order is still "processing" @ Caseking.de after 16 hours , I don't know what's going on, I hoped they shipped it last night







Damn


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chatch15117*


This is probably a nooby question, but what is the difference between the CWCH50 and CWCH50-1?

http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/Produc...odlist=froogle

http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/Produc...odlist=froogle


the H-50 is made form 100% Copper
the H-50-1 is made of a mix of Aluminium/Copper

I think the new one will be better!


----------



## Penryn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


the H-50 is made form 100% Copper
the H-50-1 is made of a mix of Aluminium/Copper

I think the new one will be better!


Wow I feel so hosed. I buy it and they revise it. Sunnuva...


----------



## ablearcher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Penryn*


Wow I feel so hosed. I buy it and they revise it. Sunnuva...


Copper moves heat better
Aluminum disperses heat better. (to air, at least. I dunno about water).

What is there not to like?


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Penryn*


Wow I feel so hosed. I buy it and they revise it. Sunnuva...


Your telling ME!!

mind you i did get mine at date of release for 39GBP!!


----------



## Penryn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ablearcher*


Copper moves heat better
Aluminum disperses heat better. (to air, at least. I dunno about water).

What is there not to like?


Nothing, I still love this thing to death. Just wish I could get my desired OC stable...


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ablearcher*


Copper moves heat better
Aluminum disperses heat better. (to air, at least. I dunno about water).

What is there not to like?


For a complete list of best thermal conductivity


----------



## ablearcher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


For a complete list of best thermal conductivity 


Hmmm.... A Silver heatplate









Thank you for the list!


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ablearcher*


Hmmm.... A Silver heatplate









Thank you for the list!


I'd like to see a limited edition diamond cpu block!!! that would be insane!!

or some diamond paste!!


----------



## kcuestag

There are 2 versions of H50? :/

I only see one here:

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/...em::13407.html

Is that one good? :/


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chatch15117*


This is probably a nooby question, but what is the difference between the CWCH50 and CWCH50-1?

http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/Produc...odlist=froogle

http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/Produc...odlist=froogle



>>> Basically = from the Corsair Support Forum's site / *Corsair Hydro Series H50 FAQ *= *

" The first release of the H50 had a part number of CWCH50 and it shipped with Intel 775 and 1366 brackets, AMD AM2/AM3 and Intel 1156 brackets are available separately on our webstore if you need them. 
The current model of the H50 is the CWCH50-1, and it now includes all brackets (Intel 775, 1156, 1366, AMD AM2, AM3) in the box. "*

{ keep in mind, for the Head/Pump has the Copper_base plate, but the Radiator has the Aluminum core's within . . . so, is WHY the coolant has corrosion-preventatives added within }

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


>>> Basically = from the Corsair Support Forum's site / *Corsair Hydro Series H50 FAQ *= *

" The first release of the H50 had a part number of CWCH50 and it shipped with Intel 775 and 1366 brackets, AMD AM2/AM3 and Intel 1156 brackets are available separately on our webstore if you need them. The current model of the H50 is the CWCH50-1, and it now includes all brackets (Intel 775, 1156, 1366, AMD AM2, AM3) in the box. "*

mr-Charles .









.


Oh thx, so im guessing mine is the -1 version since on the picture pple said it shows AMD brackets ( Don't ask me, i have no idea which are them from the shop i gave lol







)


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Oh thx, so im guessing mine is the -1 version since on the picture pple said it shows AMD brackets ( Don't ask me, i have no idea which are them from the shop i gave lol







)



>>>> just to show, these item's i have circled in *red* are the item's to be of concern'd for the use of AMD mounting's. . .


...hope this help's & self-explain's for you . . .

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## kcuestag

Yeah it did, in fact, I saved it on my Pictures folder










Thanks! ^^ Called the shop as they still didn't ship it and they said they were going to ship it in few minutes and give me a tracking number in the evening from DHL, should have it tomorrow!


----------



## mr-Charles

>>> just take your time to install; No need to rush and goof up ! ! AND = Do *NOT* overtighten the 
4 screw's on the holddown when apply'n/screw'ng down >> in-an-*X*-pattern << ! ! You do Not need 
5-fingers' and a wrist full of pressure to tighten! ! I use just 2-finger's on the screwdriver as a 
"torque" screwdriver method.....once all four screw's are "snugg'd down", then you would only need like 
about 1/2 to ALMOST 1 turn EA for all four screw's ! ! that should be sufficient enough for 
pressure upon the cpu; like i said, you'll know by the feel of just 2-finger's for 
THAT much more pressure......

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


>>> just take your time to install; No need to rush and goof up ! ! AND = Do *NOT* overtighten the 
4 screw's on the holddown when apply'ng/screw'ng down >> in-an-*X*-pattern << ! ! You do Not need 
5-fingers' and a wrist full of pressure to tighten; i use just 2 finger's on the wcrew driver as a 
"torque" screw remedy.....once all four screw's are "snugg'd down, then you would only need like 
about 1/2 to ALMOST 1 turn EA for all four screw's ! ! that should be sufficient enough for 
pressure upon the cpu; like i said, you'll know by the feel of just 2 finger's for 
THAT much more pressure......

mr-Charles .









.


Thanks









Now im just worried about my power supply, Pc just did weird thing 2 times 20 mins ago :/


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chunderface* 
Thanks but that still doesn't really answer my questions lol. I'm having it as exhaust but is it better to have the fan push air through the radiator, or pull air through it.

and 2nd question is for shroud placement.

oh crap, sorry man completely misunderstood that. When I had my old WC setup I had better results pushing, rather than pulling.


----------



## kcuestag

http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/68...ml#post8712396

Is it true that the air cooler dark knight is better than H50  ?


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chunderface*


Hey all, my H50 is arrive in the mail today/tomorrow and I just wanna know 2 things. =]

1. For a 1 fan setup, is it better for the corsair fan push or pull the air?

2. For a push/pull setup, what is the best place for my 1 fan shroud?


1.
a. Push
b. Pull with shroud

2. Pull (strongest fan on pull side)


----------



## shizdan

I hear a slight whistling and its really annoying

<-Fan Rad<-Fan With 2 Cooler Master R4's


----------



## Killhouse

Do you have a fan grill/filter on it?


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shizdan* 
I hear a slight whistling and its really annoying

<-Fan Rad<-Fan With 2 Cooler Master R4's

It's the pull fan. Only way to get rid of it is to add a shroud.


----------



## rickyman0319

i am wondering does anyone that has H50 and PII X2 550 got their temp @ around high 20 degrees.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/68...ml#post8712396

Is it true that the air cooler dark knight is better than H50  ?


I had the S1283 it performed 11'c worse than a H50. I had both.

Ask the people saying the H50's rubbish if they have a H50, if they dont, the dont know what they are talking about.

Heres a comparison of the H50 Vs a CM V8:










The V8 is quite alot better than a S1283.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


I had the S1283 it performed 11'c worse than a H50. I had both.

Aks the people saying the H50's rubbish is they have a H50, if they dont, the dont know what they are talking about.


Ok thanks









Damn the H50 didn't dispatch yet altho I called the shop and they told me it will ship today in the evening and should have it home tomorrow T.T. ..


----------



## Jaseore




----------



## kcuestag

Nice Pc there mate!









I called shop and they already shipped my H50 ( Just that their system won't update until they recieve the tracking number from DHL ) and i'll get it tomorrow


----------



## v193r

hiya im get the H50 and was wondering on if this would work:
Exhaust Hole > Yate Loon D12SH-124UB - CoolShroud - RAD - CoolShroud - Yate Loon D12SH-124UB
Links 2 Shroud:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21...oud.html#blank
I also have a 140mm exhaust at the top of my case and was wondering if i could get better result from 2x 140mm fans?


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *v193r* 
hiya im get the H50 and was wondering on if this would work:
Exhaust Hole > Yate Loon D12SH-124UB - CoolShroud - RAD - CoolShroud - Yate Loon D12SH-124UB
Links 2 Shroud:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21...oud.html#blank
I also have a 140mm exhaust at the top of my case and was wondering if i could get better result from 2x 140mm fans?

Should work just fine. I'm guessing it's going to be fairly loud.

I tested a couple 140mm fans with and without adapters but the good 120mm fans always outperformed them.


----------



## v193r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Should work just fine. I'm guessing it's going to be fairly loud.

I tested a couple 140mm fans with and without adapters but the good 120mm fans always outperformed them.

k no to 140 then. why is it goin 2 be loud? are the slipstream better choices?


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *v193r*


k no to 140 then. why is it goin 2 be loud? are the slipstream better choices?


Those fans are rated at 40db. No slipstreams. Get these instead. Or here, Sleeved.


----------



## B-Con

I agree 100%... Scythe Gentle Typhoons. Quiet, great airflow & static pressure.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Those fans are rated at 40db. No slipstreams. Get these instead. Or here, Sleeved.


^^ That. I wanted to also point out the first link, FrozenCPU you can get it sleeved there, but, it costs more money than the second link, PerformancePCS, which is where I got mine from. Great service too btw!


----------



## v193r

u guys recommend shrouds ofc right


----------



## Lord

here's mine.

i have a question.

i have it as intake push n pull.

corsair fan --> rad --> stock case fan

16xx rpm pump @ 14xx 1100-1200rpm

am i doing correct?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *v193r* 
u guys recommend shrouds ofc right

Yah.


----------



## DaleyKD

Hey guys!

In the 20 years of PC building, this is my first time I've ever attempted to overclock, so I figured I'd set up an account here.

My H50 should be here in a couple days. I just received my EVGA X58 SLI (E758) motherboard yesterday and noticed the large heatsink on the VREG(?). This concerned me a little, knowing about the H50 radiator. After reading parts of this thread, I noticed that it is possible to install the H50 on the E758, but it appears the only way to acheive push/pull is to place the 2nd fan on the outside of the case.

I noticed one picture of a rig with this exact setup (E758 with H50 P/P).

Does anyone else have pictures of a setup like this?

Also, does using a Y-Splitter for two PWM fans affect anything (such as add resistance, therefore giving false values to the BIOS)? [I hope that question makes sense.]

Thanks in advance. Can't wait to keep learning from you guys!
Kyle


----------



## luke997

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lord*


here's mine.

i have a question.

i have it as intake push n pull.

corsair fan --> rad --> stock case fan

16xx rpm pump @ 14xx 1100-1200rpm

am i doing correct?


Nice case









Setup looks good, but take a note of your mobo / GPU temps and compare if you try same in the exhaust.

I have the same case and doing push/pull exhaust as I don't want hot air blowing on my mobo plus under my desk it would be partially sucking some exhaust from the graphics hence the suggestion to try & compare.


----------



## Shaman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


I had the S1283 it performed 11'c worse than a H50. I had both.

Ask the people saying the H50's rubbish if they have a H50, if they dont, the dont know what they are talking about.

Heres a comparison of the H50 Vs a CM V8:










The V8 is quite alot better than a S1283.



Wow, maybe I should stick to my V8. H50 is only 2C better under load and V8 actually beats it in idle temps.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shaman*


Wow, maybe I should stick to my V8. H50 is only 2C better under load and V8 actually beats it in idle temps.


Thats entirely up to you









We are not on a crusade to covert air cooling users... if it works for you by all means stay with what you have.


----------



## v193r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Thats entirely up to you









We are not on a crusade to covert air cooling users... if it works for you by all means stay with what you have.










wat kind of shroud do u use and where u get it?


----------



## Mariusz803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Those fans are rated at 40db. No slipstreams. Get these instead. Or here, Sleeved.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *B-Con*


I agree 100%... Scythe Gentle Typhoons. Quiet, great airflow & static pressure.



Hey there,

How would you compare these to Noctua NF-P12's, i have 2 of these on my H50 in push/pull config. Had to put the resistor on the one pushing otherwise they would make noise from the air turbulence (push at 10v, one pulling is at 12v), not much in fact less noise than my Gelid Solution Gamer fans but noise nonetheless.

If the Typhoons are that much better i'd love to pick them up.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Do you have any prefered makes, chipsets, sli ability or price ranges?

Will be around to answer questions in a few hours.

all i can say is, as long as the mobo isnt $350+ i'm happy, which it shouldnt be, i am a fan of ASUS, but since this P5N-D fried its pwn PCI-E slot and my GeForce 9800GTX+ ( and yes, i got an answer from asus, they confirm its a rare defect but is possible with this mobo model, they offer no replacement as my warranty expired a month and a half ago) kind of convenient for them so really, i wouldnt mind an EVGA or XFX board, as i've used video cards from both and thier backed with lifetime warranties(though EVGA told me since it the fault of my mobo they wont replace my GFX card), but will, if you can find me something in tigerdirect's little list of boards, that is NOT i repeat NOT an INTEL or BIOSTAR board, because they are both bottom feeders in performance, i would be happy with several options, i like the Nforce chipsets personally, because with my experience with this 750I DLI, the chipsets nb and sb dont run very hot, the face that i need a PCI slot, and space for at least 2 double-thick gfx cards, because i intend to jump from single card to SLI other than that no specs besides that it has to be DDR2 RAM xP


----------



## Zenophobe

Zenophobe
H50 Push Pull out back of Gigabyte 3D Aurora
X3350 oc 3.4GHz


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *v193r* 
wat kind of shroud do u use and where u get it?

You have two choices..

*1) Buy a shroud.* This can be either a 25mm shoud (adequate) or a 34mm shroud (optimal). There are links on the first page of this thread for purchase locations. Link here

*2) Make a shroud.* Get an old 120mm x 25mm fan, that you wont use anymore and cut the fan supports from the frame... you now have a shroud








You can file down the supports on the frame to make it nicer but thats up to you.

Personally, both my shrouds are made via option 2.

At mount, use 2 x corsair screws to attach the shroud to the rad - one screw in opposite corners. To mount the fan, use fan screws to attach the fan to the shroud using the unused corner screw holes.

See link in my sig bar


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


all i can say is, as long as the mobo isnt $350+ i'm happy, which it shouldnt be, i am a fan of ASUS, but since this P5N-D fried its pwn PCI-E slot and my GeForce 9800GTX+ ( and yes, i got an answer from asus, they confirm its a rare defect but is possible with this mobo model, they offer no replacement as my warranty expired a month and a half ago) kind of convenient for them so really, i wouldnt mind an EVGA or XFX board, as i've used video cards from both and thier backed with lifetime warranties(though EVGA told me since it the fault of my mobo they wont replace my GFX card), but will, if you can find me something in tigerdirect's little list of boards, that is NOT i repeat NOT an INTEL or BIOSTAR board, because they are both bottom feeders in performance, i would be happy with several options, i like the Nforce chipsets personally, because with my experience with this 750I DLI, the chipsets nb and sb dont run very hot, the face that i need a PCI slot, and space for at least 2 double-thick gfx cards, because i intend to jump from single card to SLI other than that no specs besides that it has to be DDR2 RAM xP


ok, taking a look.


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DaleyKD*


Hey guys!

In the 20 years of PC building, this is my first time I've ever attempted to overclock, so I figured I'd set up an account here.

My H50 should be here in a couple days. I just received my EVGA X58 SLI (E758) motherboard yesterday and noticed the large heatsink on the VREG(?). This concerned me a little, knowing about the H50 radiator. After reading parts of this thread, I noticed that it is possible to install the H50 on the E758, but it appears the only way to acheive push/pull is to place the 2nd fan on the outside of the case.

I noticed one picture of a rig with this exact setup (E758 with H50 P/P).

Does anyone else have pictures of a setup like this?

Also, does using a Y-Splitter for two PWM fans affect anything (such as add resistance, therefore giving false values to the BIOS)? [I hope that question makes sense.]

Thanks in advance. Can't wait to keep learning from you guys!
Kyle


I have the same board, those may have been my pictures, in any case here they are again:
back of the case:
http://www.overclock.net/attachments...-back-case.jpg
Inside:








the entire inside (better look)








I ended up having to attach the fan out side of my case, and it was not at all easy because of the way to case was, so inside and outside of the case it was a pain to install the h50, but it works well, so I cant really complain other than that.


----------



## McLaren_F1

Nice custom RAM cooler


----------



## PC Gamer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


I had the S1283 it performed 11'c worse than a H50. I had both.

Ask the people saying the H50's rubbish if they have a H50, if they dont, the dont know what they are talking about.

Heres a comparison of the H50 Vs a CM V8:










The V8 is quite alot better than a S1283.


Wow 16c idle?! What is the ambient temp, that's so low. I idle in the 30cs @ stock.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


ok, taking a look.


Look taken.


Asus P5N-T Deluxe

XFX nForce 750i SLI Extreme 

EVGA nForce 750i SLI FTW

Those three don't look bad, seem to fit the bill.

As Asus' go, i've not had got luck with them lasr year, got threw 5 of thier board in my one PC, havent had an issue yet with Gigbyte.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PC Gamer*


Wow 16c idle?! What is the ambient temp, that's so low. I idle in the 30cs @ stock.


Cold.


----------



## fluxc0d3r

Check out this thread: http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...gahalem-8.html

Some people don't believe that my H50 outperformed my friend's prolimatech.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mariusz803* 
Hey there,

How would you compare these to Noctua NF-P12's, i have 2 of these on my H50 in push/pull config. Had to put the resistor on the one pushing otherwise they would make noise from the air turbulence (push at 10v, one pulling is at 12v), not much in fact less noise than my Gelid Solution Gamer fans but noise nonetheless.

If the Typhoons are that much better i'd love to pick them up.

Never tried the Noctuas so I have no experience with them. Fans do get noisier due to the turbulent air against the rad. A better solution, if you can fit it, is to add a shroud to the noisy fan. A shroud will also improve the fans airflow and increase its performance.


----------



## Shaman

One quick question: how flexible are the hoses?

When I liquid cooled (years ago when I ran AMD setups) most of my hoses were pretty flexible. Extremely flexible even. Those H50 hoses look pretty rigid. I ask because I would probably do some pretty serious routing so that the hoses are out of the VRM area.


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*


Nice custom RAM cooler










Lol, your the first one whos noticed that. It works really well and i spent 6 bucks instead 30 for one of the corsair ones, which to be truthful don't appear to be that great according to the reviews. These 60mm fans get up to 4500 RPM lol, and they get pretty damn loud.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shaman*


One quick question: how flexible are the hoses?

When I liquid cooled (years ago when I ran AMD setups) most of my hoses were pretty flexible. Extremely flexible even. Those H50 hoses look pretty rigid. I ask because I would probably do some pretty serious routing so that the hoses are out of the VRM area.



The hoses are somewhat rigid, but they flex, and they flex more or less to the way you bend em after a little bit of use. It took a little bit of time to get them out and straight when I moved the cooler the other day. They'll give you a little trouble when you first bend em into place, but after a while you'll be fine.


----------



## v193r

do ppl here agree that typhoon best fan for H50 and where do i get shrouds.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *v193r*

do ppl here agree that typhoon best fan for H50 and where do i get shrouds.


Which typhoons are you referring too... there are many?

Did you read my earlier reply to you? There was a link to purchase.

@McLaren_F1 re RAM cooling

How did you mount those fans? - yes, vcool


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Which typhoons are you referring too... there are many?

Did you read my earlier reply to you? There was a link to purchase.

@McLaren_F1 re RAM cooling

How did you mount those fans? - yes, vcool










The ram fans?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dude120*


The ram fans?


Yep, the ram fans...


----------



## v193r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Which typhoons are you referring too... there are many?

Did you read my earlier reply to you? There was a link to purchase.


opps missed that page. WOW i can make one pretty ez. 
These tyohoons:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Those fans are rated at 40db. No slipstreams. Get these instead. Or here, Sleeved.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *B-Con*


I agree 100%... Scythe Gentle Typhoons. Quiet, great airflow & static pressure.


----------



## fluxc0d3r

Gentle Typhoons are the best fans you can get for any rad period. Noctuas don't even come close to the performance of these fans.


----------



## Iroh

+1 vote for the stock TIM being too thick. I couldn't figure out why I was getting 36C idle and 48-50C prime load temps at stock speeds, so I figured what the hey I'll try the old AS5. A thinner layer of an inferior product can be better than a thick layer of a better one, right?

Yup. Idle dropped to 30C and load to 43C in prime and the stuff hasn't even cured yet. It's only been in for an hour.

I couldn't believe just how much TIM they had on the block until I tried to dissolve it off. I think you could coat 5 CPUs with that much grease.

pirate edit: I now have q-fan turned on so the pusher stock fan is spinning at 1030 rpm idle and 1400ish at load, and still about the same temps at stock clocks. Amazing.


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Iroh*


+1 vote for the stock TIM being too thick. I couldn't figure out why I was getting 36C idle and 48-50C prime load temps at stock speeds, so I figured what the hey I'll try the old AS5. A thinner layer of an inferior product can be better than a thick layer of a better one, right?

Yup. Idle dropped to 30C and load to 43C in prime and the stuff hasn't even cured yet. It's only been in for an hour.

I couldn't believe just how much TIM they had on the block until I tried to dissolve it off. I think you could coat 5 CPUs with that much grease.


I hear ya there. Never even thought about using the stock TIM, of course I didn't know it was Shin-Etsu, but that was irrevelent. One look at the overkill amount of TIM on that thing and I knew immediately it had to go.


----------



## dude120

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Yep, the ram fans...

Sorry, I wasn't sure if you were talking to him or me. They're two 60 mm fans, and they're tied together by two zip-ties, one on either side. They're being held on by a black piece of foam tape on either side, which is stuck to the nubs which you push down when your putting the ram in. (They are also zip-tied and anchored to the back of the case as a precaution but its hidden well.)


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fluxc0d3r* 
Check out this thread: http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...gahalem-8.html

Some people don't believe that my H50 outperformed my friend's prolimatech.

I went ahead and left them some info, I did the comparison before hand, the Mega get's pwned!

Here are my load temps overclocked to 3.8 GHz.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
^^ That. I wanted to also point out the first link, FrozenCPU you can get it sleeved there, but, it costs more money than the second link, *PerformancePCS, which is where I got mine from. Great service too btw!*









x2 for Performance PCs. That's where I got mine also. Been buying from them ever since.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
x2 for Performance PCs. That's where I got mine also. Been buying from them ever since.

x3, they seem to have everything in stock. pricing is good, shipping is fast and accurate, orders are processed quickly and customer service is A+!


----------



## Iroh

Preliminary high-clock test, 955c2. Power meter says 109w idle, 265w load when in prime95. Ambient 24C. Compare to that 965c3 above.

I swear it leaks current like a sieve.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Iroh* 
Preliminary high-clock test, 955c2. Power meter says 109w idle, 265w load when in prime95. Ambient 24C. Compare to that 965c3 above.

I swear it leaks current like a sieve.










Keep an eye on those temps bro. Good job so far


----------



## Iroh

doggone tempting to replace with a heatkiller in the future! Man I seem to get bad luck with chips, although it does do as it was advertised.

Currently running prime95 at 3.2Ghz, 1.23v; pusher fan 1200 rpm; temps 45C core 42C IHS. Power meter says 183w, so:
-going from idle to undervolted 3.2GHz load, 74 watts.
-going from 3.2GHz to 3.8Ghz, an additional 82 watts.

For anyone wondering where all that heat came from when they started overclocking....


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dude120*


Sorry, I wasn't sure if you were talking to him or me. They're two 60 mm fans, and they're tied together by two zip-ties, one on either side. They're being held on by a black piece of foam tape on either side, which is stuck to the nubs which you push down when your putting the ram in. (They are also zip-tied and anchored to the back of the case as a precaution but its hidden well.)


Thats a mighty neat setup. Thanks for sharing


----------



## v193r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


x3, they seem to have everything in stock. pricing is good, shipping is fast and accurate, orders are processed quickly and customer service is A+!


nice i might get them so push pull with one or two shrouds? also can someone post a pic of a homemade shroud made from an old fan in action.


----------



## rickyman0319

Coolermaster A12025-20RB-3BN-F1 (LED), i just received the fan. when i installed those fans, pluged on the motherboard. I heard the loud noise on the fan.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *v193r* 
nice i might get them so push pull with one or two shrouds? also can someone post a pic of a homemade shroud made from an old fan in action.

Here ya go...

Thats a pic of the case/rad/shroud/fan in exhaust. I have the same setup within the case. So over all its...

Push/shroud/case/rad/shroud/pull = exhaust

Its an old photo. Those CM F1s have been replaced by 2 x Scythe Kaze 2000s


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Its a Xigmatek S126284 - Thor's Hammer.

Thanks for replied my post quickly.. here desevre your rep +..


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
Thanks for replied my post quickly.. here desevre your rep +..









Thanks man for the rep... Im not sure it was rep-worthy though









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rickyman0319*
Coolermaster A12025-20RB-3BN-F1 (LED), i just received the fan. when i installed those fans, pluged on the motherboard. I heard the loud noise on the fan.

They are my stock case fans... Ive not really noticed a loud sound... Is the fan a tad wobbly within the frame?


----------



## iCeMaN57

I've been considering getting this for my i7 and phenom II. So I need to get better fans with pull/rad/push config? I don't like the idea of warm air hovering around the components.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Thanks man for the rep... Im not sure it was rep-worthy though









Dude Sethy, *AAhhh* C'mon.. Rep meanings anything as such Modify cases, helpful, answer, feddback, etc.. Please correct me if I am wrong..


----------



## PCSarge

as i must post again...ASUS refuses to replace my mobo, EVGA refuses to replace my GeForce 9800GTX+ because they blame ASUS, so i'm stuck in the middle with a dead GFX card and a mobo thats hanging on for dear life,i'm on the pc right now, it runs ok, but i am not about to start crysis and have it turn off again lmao

as far as mobos go, ill take a look at those if thier at the store will, otherwise i hafta find a diff one


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
Dude Sethy, *AAhhh* C'mon.. Rep meanings anything as such Modify cases, helpful, answer, feddback, etc.. Please correct me if I am wrong..









Okay... I wont argue with you









Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
as i must post again...ASUS refuses to replace my mobo, EVGA refuses to replace my GeForce 9800GTX+ because they blame ASUS, so i'm stuck in the middle with a dead GFX card and a mobo thats hanging on for dear life,i'm on the pc right now, it runs ok, but i am not about to start crysis and have it turn off again lmao

as far as mobos go, ill take a look at those if thier at the store will, otherwise i hafta find a diff one









Sorry to hear about all that.

The GA-EP45- UD3 series is compatable with DD2 800 ram... see link

Quote:

http://www.giga-byte.com.au/FileList....pdf#anchor_os


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Thanks man for the rep... Im not sure it was rep-worthy though









They are my stock case fans... Ive not really noticed a loud sound... Is the fan a tad wobbly within the frame?

what do you do to your case that your fan make no noise?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*


what do you do to your case that your fan make no noise?


It depends on what you mean by noise I guess. In my case, Ive dremmeled all the grills out so there is nothing between them and the case mesh. Ive got dust guards in place over the intakes. (see pics)

I can them the air moving but there is nothing noteworthy about the fan "noise". Those fans are not that loud.

Are your fans securely attached, not loose? Is there a rogue cable getting smacked by the fan blades?


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


It depends on what you mean by noise I guess. In my case, Ive dremmeled all the grills out so there is nothing between them and the case mesh. Ive got dust guards in place over the intakes. (see pics)

I can them the air moving but there is nothing noteworthy about the fan "noise". Those fans are not that loud.

Are your fans securely attached, not loose? Is there a rogue cable getting smacked by the fan blades?


i forgot to ask you. is your fan running full speed or control by fan controller. if i plug on the board, it almost spin max. if i put on fan contoller, it stay @ 900-1200 rpm.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*


i forgot to ask you. is your fan running full speed or control by fan controller. if i plug on the board, it almost spin max. if i put on fan contoller, it stay @ 900-1200 rpm.


Both.

My rad fans (Scythe Kaze 2000) are being run off the mobo. Everything else runs off a fan controller.

Previous to running the controller, I had the case fans powered off the PSU via molex plugs. Even then, they were not loud.


----------



## v193r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Here ya go...

Thats a pic of the case/rad/shroud/fan in exhaust. I have the same setup within the case. So over all its...

Push/shroud/case/rad/shroud/pull = exhaust

Its an old photo. Those CM F1s have been replaced by 2 x Scythe Kaze 2000s


So ill have to live without shrouds if i want to keep everything within a case. I also have x2 120/140 exhaust holes at the top of my case.


----------



## R1P5AW

Count me in!










HAF 932 Push/Pull Intake


----------



## v193r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R1P5AW*


Count me in!










HAF 932 Push/Pull Intake


I want mine to look like that. Would a shroud fit in there?


----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *v193r*


I want mine to look like that. Would a shroud fit in there?


I'm not 100% sure but I think it would cut it pretty close.


----------



## jason1980

i am a user too~!


----------



## pcnuttie

Dear god who wants 1000 watt power supply? I can't imagine the electricity bill. But they passed a law on power supplies to draw less energy lol


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Dear god who wants 1000 watt power supply? I can't imagine the electricity bill. But they passed a law on power supplies to draw less energy lol










Stay on topic please.

But to answer the 'question', a PSU will only use the power it needs. A 1000w PSU supplying 300W to a system wont have 700W of power dissipated into thin air (in the form of heat).


----------



## Lord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *luke997*


Nice case









Setup looks good, but take a note of your mobo / GPU temps and compare if you try same in the exhaust.

I have the same case and doing push/pull exhaust as I don't want hot air blowing on my mobo plus under my desk it would be partially sucking some exhaust from the graphics hence the suggestion to try & compare.


thanks.

i will try to set it up is exhaust tonite.

btw is my fan setup correct? i mean stronger fan pushing air into radiator and weaker fan pulling or it should be the other way round?


----------



## Penryn

Woo! Did a little rad cleaning today after setting up my PC in its new desk,








also did a check on block pressure on the CPU. Loosened it, twisted a bit to spread the paste a bit (without picking it up mind you), and reset the screws. Dropped my temps about 5-8C average! WOOOOOOOOOOO!

Now idle at 33-35, load during LinX down from 85C to 79C!


----------



## kcuestag

Damn DHL -.- ...

Called them to know if the H50 would come today and they said no, tomorrow -.-.

Another day waiting lol.


----------



## kcuestag

Hmmm, might still get it today







I just updated saying the guy has my package since 10:57am ^^:










Let's hope so! You think it should? XD


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *v193r* 
I want mine to look like that. Would a shroud fit in there?

yes, a 25mm shroud will fit.


----------



## kcuestag

I just got the H50, should I then connect it to the Power Supply with molex adapter and check it doesn't leak first?


----------



## kcuestag

Crap im getting scared.

I tested it, heard water, ok no leakings good...

but, i took stock cooler out and cpu came with it 

I try to put my fingers on the edges and pull and i caaant!!!!

what can i do??


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Crap im getting scared.

I tested it, heard water, ok no leakings good...

but, i took stock cooler out and cpu came with it 

I try to put my fingers on the edges and pull and i caaant!!!!

what can i do??


From previous post. No leak testing required unless you take off the tubes to mod it. You can connect the pump to any motherboard fan header (make sure it runs at 100% though) or just to a 4 pin molex. Point is, pump needs full power all the time.

Use a flat head screwdriver to twisted the plastic 'screw clips'. Once they are loose, they should come out easy. It might take some trial and error to figure which way to turn them


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


From previous post. No leak testing required unless you take off the tubes to mod it.

Use a flat head screwdriver to twisted the plastic 'screw clips'. Once they are loose, they should come out easy. It might take some trial and error to figure which way to turn them










Not sure fi i explained my self correctly.

I took the stock cooler off the motherboard, and the cpu came with it, its stuck in the heatpipe, i cant take it off with my hands, im scared, i dont know what to do ( Luckily the pins are all fine )







plz hlep


----------



## kcuestag

Ok i just took it off with a plane screw diver, thx mate.


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Not sure fi i explained my self correctly.

I took the stock cooler off the motherboard, and the cpu came with it, its stuck in the heatpipe, i cant take it off with my hands, im scared, i dont know what to do ( Luckily the pins are all fine )







plz hlep


OK, I think I understand, your CPU is now stuck to the stock heatsink?

Grab the sides, and twist it. That fails, use a plastic knife or credit card to squeeze in between the 2.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Ok i just took it off with a plane screw diver, thx mate.


That can work too







Nothing that can really get damaged (unless you count cosmetic damage).


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


OK, I think I understand, your CPU is now stuck to the stock heatsink?

Grab the sides, and twist it. That fails, use a plastic knife or credit card to squeeze in between the 2.


Both of that failed at first, had to use a screw diver.


----------



## DaleyKD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
...You can connect the pump to any motherboard fan header (make sure it runs at 100% though) or just to a 4 pin molex. Point is, pump needs full power all the time.

After some reading on this thread, I think I understand how the fans should work. So, let me see if I have this correct?

The pump can connect to a motherboard *3-pin* fan header, as long as it is set to run at 100% all the time.
In a push/pull design, the fans don't need to run at 100% all the time. Therefore, using a Y-Splitter to connect the two *4-pin (PWM)* fans to the motherboard's CPU fan header is acceptable.
A large majority of the users on this thread recommend the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 as the fan of choice on the H50. However, since they are 3-pin, will the motherboard still adjust the voltage so the fan speed also adjusts? That way, when I'm not playing BF:BC2, the fan won't be running as fast/loudly?

Once again, thanks in advance for all of your help!
Kyle


----------



## kcuestag

Hello people.

After a while, i've isntalled it.

So I overclocked my CPU to 3,8GHz on 1,40v and will run Prime95 in a min, iddle temp is 35ÂºC, is that good?

I only have 1 fan so far because I don't know where to get the screws for a 2nd fan for push/pull :/ , can i use my xigmatek fan screws or are they thiccker?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DaleyKD*


After some reading on this thread, I think I understand how the fans should work. So, let me see if I have this correct?

The pump can connect to a motherboard *3-pin* fan header, as long as it is set to run at 100% all the time.
In a push/pull design, the fans don't need to run at 100% all the time. Therefore, using a Y-Splitter to connect the two *4-pin (PWM)* fans to the motherboard's CPU fan header is acceptable.
A large majority of the users on this thread recommend the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 as the fan of choice on the H50. However, since they are 3-pin, will the motherboard still adjust the voltage so the fan speed also adjusts? That way, when I'm not playing BF:BC2, the fan won't be running as fast/loudly?

Once again, thanks in advance for all of your help!
Kyle


Everything you've said is correct, your motherboard should be technical enough to recognise that your fans should be controlled via RPM monitoring rather than PWM when you plug the fans in. If not, you can set your own settings using speedfan, I prefer this anyway because I practically turn my fan off at idle temperatures.

Note also that most motherboard headers are rated at 1A, which means that if you have two fans on it it'll be close to maximum. Try to check the ratings of your motherboard and the rating for the fans you intend to use.









Oh, and remember to take some pictures!


----------



## kcuestag

Alright so I lowered the voltage from 1,40v to 1,33v and now it's @ 35ÂºC iddle and 52Âºc full with Linx and no crashes or anything, is that good enough?

Here's a picture (s):







You think the temps are good?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Alright so I lowered the voltage from 1,40v to 1,33v and now it's @ 35ÂºC iddle and 52Âºc full with Linx and no crashes or anything, is that good enough?

Here's a picture (s):







You think the temps are good?


not bad, rather average i must say, but then again, i switched to intel because my old AMD had major heat issues, your at average temps


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


not bad, rather average i must say, but then again, i switched to intel because my old AMD had major heat issues, you at average temps


I might push it to 4GHz but not sure how much voltage I need to give it







:/


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


I might push it to 4GHz but not sure how much voltage I need to give it







:/


mmm try 1.34 first, then 1.36 and 1.38 respectively, try no to push past 1.4v mine is an intel, but after i got it stable i managed to shave from 1.56v down to a mere 1.38v your NB SB and VTT play part in this also, becareful how far you push them respectively, NB not past 1.4, SB not past 1.5 or at least not recommended by the manufacturer (on my intel i have NB at 1.38v and my sb at 1.48v)


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


mmm try 1.34 first, then 1.36 and 1.38 respectively, try no to push past 1.4v


OK I will.

Also got a "stupid" question, does making OC make the cpu's life shorter?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


OK I will.

Also got a "stupid" question, does making OC make the cpu's life shorter? 


only if you push past the reccomended max voltages, mines been running like this for around 4 months now roughly, seen no degrades in performance


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


only if you push past the reccomended max voltages, mines been running like this for around 4 months now roughly, seen no degrades in performance


Mine's at 3,8GHz 1,34v right now, might leave it like that for a while


----------



## kcuestag

Question:

How can I mount a Xigmatek 120mm fan on the radiator inside to make "push/pull"? I think the screws from the fan won't fit the radiator, im not sure :/

And if so, how would I install it ( What directions each fan ? )

Right now it's like this

Corsair Stock fan > Radiator

Both are inside the case.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Mine's at 3,8GHz 1,34v right now, might leave it like that for a while









well you have up to 1.4v to try, so why not attempt it, if it doesnt work, bump it back to your current settings

MAKE SURE you SAVE you current bios profile BEFORE you edit it to try and bump it higher


----------



## kcuestag

I'm gonna stay @ 3,8Ghz for now, I first want to install one of my spare 120mm xigmatek fans on the radiator for push/pull b ut I don't know how.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
I'm gonna stay @ 3,8Ghz for now, I first want to install one of my spare 120mm xigmatek fans on the radiator for push/pull b ut I don't know how.

the 4 screws that come with the H50 to mount the fan, leave 2 on that fan and the rad, in a diagonal fashion, then take the other 2, and mount the fan on the other side with the screws in a diagonal fashion and there you have it









EDIT: OH NO! Killhouse is on! run for your lives! AHHHHHHHH!







jk


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
the 4 screws that come with the H50 to mount the fan, leave 2 on that fan and the rad, in a diagonal fashion, then take the other 2, and mount the fan on the other side with the screws in a diagonal fashion and there you have it









EDIT: OH NO! Killhouse is on! run for your lives! AHHHHHHHH!







jk

You think they'll be "tight" like that?

If so, how should I mount it? Like which possition each fan and what direction of air... ?


----------



## Killhouse




----------



## Xs1nX

Further update ..

I am getting a solution via the retailer i bought the H50 from, they are replacing it under the terms of the 28 day accidental damage insurance i added to basket on checkout(was only a few Â£ extra per item) This will also apply to the Motherboard and CPU if they have been damaged to. So a win for SCAN Computers and their Scansure Insurance i think, and an epic fail for me of course for damaging things in the first place.

Does anyone have any tips/advice to make it easer for me to get the tightness or lack thereof right on the H50 ? as part of the issue was it is hard to tell how far i could safely tighten them due to the design of the mountings.


----------



## Killhouse

Dont go tighter than you can tighten it with one finger and your thumb. It really doesent need to be that tight at all. Make sure you use the right mounting screws too, they're slightly different


----------



## kcuestag

How should I install the fans/rad for a push/pull setup? ( Heard they give better temperatures ).

I have:

1x Xigmatek 120mm fan
1x Corsair H50 default fan
1x Radiator

So how should I mount it up?

Right now its like this:

Corsair default fan > RAdiator

THey're both INSIDE the case.


----------



## Killhouse

Go for:

Corsair fan (Push) ---> Radiator ----> Xigmatek (Pull)
Should yield the best temperatures


----------



## DaleyKD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
If so, how should I mount it? Like which possition each fan and what direction of air... ?

I believe I've read that a lot of users have had success with:

case <-- fan <-- rad <-- fan (exhaust style)

Others have said intake style is ok, too:

case --> fan --> rad --> fan

I think they'll tell you to try both and see what works better for you?

/regurgitate

EDIT:
Whoops, I'm too slow. Killhouse types faster.


----------



## Killhouse

That is what we would say







Normally exhaust is better though, I would recommend that.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Go for:

Corsair fan (Push) ---> Radiator ----> Xigmatek (Pull)
Should yield the best temperatures









All 3 items inside the case? Will it be "tight" enough not to break the screws ? ( I know it sounds stupid... )

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DaleyKD* 
I believe I've read that a lot of users have had success with:

case <-- fan <-- rad <-- fan (exhaust style)

Others have said intake style is ok, too:

case --> fan --> rad --> fan

I think they'll tell you to try both and see what works better for you?

/regurgitate

Hmm I heard that intake gives better temps, at least on Corsair H50 install video it says so.


----------



## Lord

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lord* 
thanks.

i will try to set it up is exhaust tonite.

btw is my fan setup correct? i mean stronger fan pushing air into radiator and weaker fan pulling or it should be the other way round?

can someone answer me please.


----------



## R1P5AW

IMHO if you have good airflow in your case do push/pull in intake configuration.

It will give you the best temps as it is bringing in cold air from outside the case that will be used to chill the liquid in the rad.

I say make sure you have good airflow because it is going to "pull" hot air into the case.

If you don't have a top or side fan, go exhaust.

Hope it helps


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
All 3 items inside the case? Will it be "tight" enough not to break the screws ? ( I know it sounds stupid... )

Hmm I heard that intake gives better temps, at least on Corsair H50 install video it says so.

If they fit, its absolutely fine. Just make sure the pipes arent twisted weirdly, they probably wont be too bad









Intake will yield better temperatures, but youll soon realise that it dumps A LOT of heat into the case, which causes difficulties for the rest of your system - particularly RAM and Graphics card. With an exhaust setup your temperatures may be slightly higher, but only a small amount, and you get to keep a nice cool case.


----------



## kcuestag

Ok now both of you confused me







:rofl3:

So, how should I mount it,

Both into ->>>> position of air or taking air OUT of the case like <-------

???

Thx


----------



## DaleyKD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Hmm I heard that intake gives better temps, at least on Corsair H50 install video it says so.

This is a copy from the first post of this thread:

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...50-battle.html

In that post, it shows that in only one situation, H50 intake wins.

Also, this is a quote from the first post (by Killhouse):

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse*
The personal feelings of myself and most people in this forum are to ignore Corsairs advice, and configure the fan as *EXHAUST*. Note that we also see big improvements in temperatures when you use a push/pull setup.


----------



## Killhouse

With your graphics card I thoroughly recommend exhaust setup - both fans pushing air OUT of the case









EDIT: although you do get 1-2C higher temperatures with an exhaust setup it's better for the system as a whole.


----------



## R1P5AW

fan->rad->fan sucking air in if you have good airflow

fan<-rad<-fan exhaust if you dont

since you have a 932 like me, do intake


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xs1nX* 
Further update ...

Does anyone have any tips/advice to make it easer for me to get the tightness or lack thereof right on the H50 ? as part of the issue was it is hard to tell how far i could safely tighten them due to the design of the mountings.

... did ya by chance read's upon my helping out this other guy on

page 524, post#5235 & post#5237 ? ? ?

this might pretty much help you out as for What
information You are asking/concern'd about's . . .

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## R1P5AW

Also, check out my picture a couple pages back, that'll give you a good config









EDIT: on pg 531


----------



## Hadenman

*I thought I would pose the question I originally posted here to my fellow H50 owners:*

I've been doing some testing of my H50 using the RealTemp plugin for RivaTuner. I will let this tool capture temp readings at a 1 sample/sec rate for different scenarios (e.g. idle, prime95, 3dmark06, stock vs. oc). I can then see what the min/max/avg temps are for the cores, under different scenarios, for a fixed length of time.

When I see reviews online giving temps for idle and loads are they giving an average or a one-time snapshot temp? Some of them read like they are just taking a 1-time temp at the end of a X min long scenario run. But, I know when I run prime95 blended for an hour my core temps definitely vary over that time. So, wouldn't I be more interested in what my average temp over that run was versus what the temp was at the end of the run?

My responses in this post made me think about these details more. Most of the reviews I see don't really explain exactly how the temp numbers were captured/calculated.

*The 'Other Cooling Discussions' forum does not seem to get a lot of traffic*


----------



## DaleyKD

I'm going to keep quiet now. Sorry to add to any confusion. I just like to regurgitate what I read.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hadenman* 
*I thought I would pose the question I originally posted here to my fellow H50 owners:*

I've been doing some testing of my H50 using the RealTemp plugin for RivaTuner. I will let this tool capture temp readings at a 1 sample/sec rate for different scenarios (e.g. idle, prime95, 3dmark06, stock vs. oc). I can then see what the min/max/avg temps are for the cores, under different scenarios, for a fixed length of time.

When I see reviews online giving temps for idle and loads are they giving an average or a one-time snapshot temp? Some of them read like they are just taking a 1-time temp at the end of a X min long scenario run. But, I know when I run prime95 blended for an hour my core temps definitely vary over that time. So, wouldn't I be more interested in what my average temp over that run was versus what the temp was at the end of the run?

My responses in this post made me think about these details more. Most of the reviews I see don't really explain exactly how the temp numbers were captured/calculated.

*The 'Other Cooling Discussions' forum does not seem to get a lot of traffic*









I believe most online reviews tend to use maximum temperature over the time period. Though unfortunately you find that most review sites are biased towards a product and will publish anything which favours them









Your average method is a good one - another way is to plot a graph of temperatures over time.


----------



## DaleyKD

Oh, Killhouse? I think there's a typo in your first post. It's the link titled:

Contagion's Fan *Shoud* + Push/Pull Testing

It appears we're missing an '*r*'?

-shuts his trap for a while, now-


----------



## Killhouse

Cheers Daley, no need to be quiet, its a fast moving thread today!


----------



## R1P5AW

With 3 screens im strugglin to keep up LOL!


----------



## Killhouse

OT: love your eyefinity setup


----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


OT: love your eyefinity setup










Thanks dude!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R1P5AW*


fan->rad->fan sucking air in if you have good airflow

fan<-rad<-fan exhaust if you dont

since you have a 932 like me, do intake


Ok I did like you, iddle temps dropped from 35-36Âºc to 32-33ÂºC. Going to try full now


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R1P5AW*


fan->rad->fan sucking air in if you have good airflow

fan<-rad<-fan exhaust if you dont

since you have a 932 like me, do intake


i have an HAF 932, you also, if you have not filled the slots, have the option of hanging it with cable ties in the 5.25" cd drive bays, see link in my "mods" list


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i have an HAF 932, you also if you have not filled the slots, have an option of hanging it with cable ties in the 5.25" cd drive bays, see link in my "mods" list


I got 1 spare 120mm fan and i wanted to put it in the DVD bays hanging somehow! Thanks!

Btw, with both intaking , i dropped on full with Linx from 53Âºc to 48Âºc, not bad at all!


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


I got 1 spare 120mm fan and i wanted to put it in the DVD bays hanging somehow! Thanks!

Btw, with both intaking , i dropped on full with Linx from 53Âºc to 48Âºc, not bad at all!










good improvement, i personally went out and bout 4 more bolts for the second fan, as youll see in the pictures i posted, it costed me about $1.35 CDN in all for bolts and washers, all i did, was wrap the cable ties around the bolts once the fans were screwed to the rad, and tied them to the cd drive bay

EDIT: it also reduced much of the noise it was causing being bolted to the case, because its suspended, the vibration doesnt transfer and create noise


----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


EDIT: it also reduced much of the noise it was causing being bolted to the case, because its suspended, the vibration doesnt transfer and create noise


That was my worry with your solution, I'm glad that it's quiet for ya!


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hadenman*


*I thought I would pose the question I originally posted here to my fellow H50 owners: *

I've been doing some testing of my H50 using the RealTemp plugin for RivaTuner. I will let this tool capture temp readings at a 1 sample/sec rate for different scenarios (e.g. idle, prime95, 3dmark06, stock vs. oc). I can then see what the min/max/avg temps are for the cores, under different scenarios, for a fixed length of time.

When I see reviews online giving temps for idle and loads are they giving an average or a one-time snapshot temp? Some of them read like they are just taking a 1-time temp at the end of a X min long scenario run. But, I know when I run prime95 blended for an hour my core temps definitely vary over that time. So, wouldn't I be more interested in what my average temp over that run was versus what the temp was at the end of the run?

My responses in this post made me think about these details more. Most of the reviews I see don't really explain exactly how the temp numbers were captured/calculated.

*The 'Other Cooling Discussions' forum does not seem to get a lot of traffic*










Exactly. I dont trust other peoples temps.

What I would normally do (prime95 small fft), is warm up the CPU for 10-15 minutes, then start logging temps on each core, every 500ms. When I am done (say 5 - 50 minutes), I just get the average between the cores, and then average the whole bunch, over the entire period.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R1P5AW*


That was my worry with your solution, I'm glad that it's quiet for ya!


silence is golden... especially when playing crysis on multi-display, personally, i hooked mine up to a 52" t.v, better than being limited by monitors


----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


silence is golden... especially when playing crysis on multi-display, personallyi, i hooked mine up to a 52" t.v, better than being limited by monitors


Very true

Make your own noise


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R1P5AW* 
Very true

Make your own noise









the only noise my entire pc makes, is the sound of my GFX card's fan revving up to 100%

but as it is atm, i cant run my games, for my P5N-D 750i SLI screwed my GFX card, and ruined one of the 2 PCI-E 2.0 slots on the board itself i'm temporarily running my old 9600 GSO till i can replace the mobo/ gfx card


----------



## DaleyKD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
the only noise my entire pc makes, is the sound of my GFX card's fan revving up to 100%

but as it is atm, i cant run my games, for my P5N-D 750i SLI screwed my GFX card, and ruined one of the 2 PCI-E 2.0 slots on the board itself i'm temporarily running my old 9600 GSO till i can replace the mobo/ gfx card

Do what I do when things don't go right: I blame it on the poutine.

Sorry, that's my little Canadian "joke" for the week. It's been a long time since I've been up to Toronto/Cambridge/Kitchener.









EDIT:
But in all seriousness, sorry to hear about the situation.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DaleyKD* 
Do what I do when things don't go right: I blame it on the poutine.

Sorry, that's my little Canadian "joke" for the week. It's been a long time since I've been up to Toronto/Cambridge/Kitchener.









EDIT:
But in all seriousness, sorry to hear about the situation.

in all fairness, not to knock them...but asus has some crappy warranty on thier mobos lol....


----------



## DaleyKD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


in all fairness, not to knock them...but asus has some crappy warranty on thier mobos lol....


I believe it. I love ASUS, don't get me wrong, but when it comes to motherboards, I try to stick with EVGA due to their lifetime warranty on select models.

Anyway, I got off topic. My apologies.


----------



## R1P5AW

I love ASUS boards. Just got my P6T deluxe yesterday


----------



## Lord

i have a corsair stock fan and my sniper case stock fan on my h50 as push n pull intake.

i have the corsair fan pushing air and case fan pulling air.

corsair fan has 16xx rpm whereas case fan has 11xx rpm.

am i doing it correctly?

please reply as this is the third time i'm asking the same question


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R1P5AW*


I love ASUS boards. Just got my P6T deluxe yesterday










I loved the P6T as well! When I rocked my i7 setup (for a whole month) it was sooooo easy to OC my i7 and corrected a LOT of user error! lol

I'm loving this Maximus Extreme too! I have heard bad things about the ASUS warranties, but I hope I never have any issues to find out. *knock on wood*


----------



## pcnuttie

I didn't buy the H50 cuz i know i ain't gonna overclock so hard unless i want to but only running 3ghz for the moment, i'll probably buy it in the summer. my temps are great anyways on air


----------



## mastercode

ive just bought my H50 witha pair of 120mm Scythe Gentle Typhoon ... sorry if this has been asked loads of times

i will be doing the push pull setup ... do i have the air pulling in from outside of the case

thanks for your time


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


I didn't buy the H50 cuz i know i ain't gonna overclock so hard unless i want to but only running 3ghz for the moment, i'll probably buy it in the summer. my temps are great anyways on air










be forwarned nuttie, i have a P5N-D, it fried my EVGA GeForce 9800 GTX+

and its own PCI-E 2.0 slot at the same time, the gfx card was glued into the slot with melted plastic, thus i had to pry it out with a screwdriver


----------



## DaleyKD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lord*


i have a corsair stock fan and my sniper case stock fan on my h50 as push n pull intake.

i have the corsair fan pushing air and case fan pulling air.

corsair fan has 16xx rpm whereas case fan has 11xx rpm.

am i doing it correctly?

please reply as this is the third time i'm asking the same question










Lord, I wish I knew the answer to your question. I haven't read/learned enough yet to know if it's better to have the faster fan on the push or pull side. I, too, would like to know the answer.

I'm sure someone will answer your question soon enough. I'm going to thank you in advance for your patience.

Have a great day!


----------



## DaleyKD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastercode*


ive just bought my H50 witha pair of 120mm Scythe Gentle Typhoon ... sorry if this has been asked loads of times

i will be doing the push pull setup ... do i have the air pulling in from outside of the case

thanks for your time


You might want to start reading from here:
http://www.overclock.net/8724311-post5343.html

You should only have to read 10 or so posts to get your answer, and a little more explanation.

Good luck!


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DaleyKD*


Lord, I wish I knew the answer to your question. I haven't read/learned enough yet to know if it's better to have the faster fan on the push or pull side. I, too, would like to know the answer.

I'm sure someone will answer your question soon enough. I'm going to thank you in advance for your patience.

Have a great day!


faster fan on the push side, have a nice day









lol i sound like i work at a supermarket


----------



## PCSarge

*imitates george carlin*

i dont have a nice day anymore, i think i've outgrown the nice day, why should i be hogging all the really nice ones,let someone else have a few, but everyone still wants me to have one,they want me to have a nice day *imitates cashier* "have a nice day" yeah yeah yeah will you just gimmie my change please, i'm triple parked! id just like to hear one of them say "hey!, have a crappy day!"
theres no work involved for a crappy day....just get up, no pre-emptive planning involved

and strange women lying in ponds distributing swords is no basis for a system of goverment (unless you live in the U.S.A)


----------



## Hadenman

I was thinking of making a change to how my air flows through my p183 case. See this crude diagram:

http://www.overclock.net/picture.php...ictureid=13934

Basically, it will allow me to get cooler air into the H50 versus the current setup. I was worried about only having one exhaust fan, so I could cut a hole, and put another exhaust fan at the top. Does this seem like something worth pursuing?

Thanks!

*Edit*: I'm not really counting the PCI Slot fan because it doesn't really move a lot of air.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lord*


i have a corsair stock fan and my sniper case stock fan on my h50 as push n pull intake.

i have the corsair fan pushing air and case fan pulling air.

corsair fan has 16xx rpm whereas case fan has 11xx rpm.

am i doing it correctly?

please reply as this is the third time i'm asking the same question










Dude, you have our collective apologies but sometimes things get missed... this is a really fast moving thread.

Yep - its correct. The stronger fan is better in a push mode and the weaker in pull.

Moving forward, you can get some more capable fans for your rad.

I trust this helps









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hadenman*

I was thinking of making a change to how my air flows through my p183 case. See this crude diagram:

Basically, it will allow me to get cooler air into the H50 versus the current setup. I was worried about only having one exhaust fan, so I could cut a hole, and put another exhaust fan at the top. Does this seem like something worth pursuing?

Thanks!


That looks like a logical mod. Just one question... is your GTX 285 exhausting out of the case or into the case? If out, you may find the hot air is being sucked back into the rad. If into the case, that should be a good solution.


----------



## PCSarge

and i fail to be poked and prodded abd laughed at for my george carlin and monty python quotes shame on you boys, can laugh at the forum clown?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


and i fail to be poked and prodded abd laughed at for my george carlin and monty python quotes shame on you boys, can laugh at the forum clown?










I appreciate your humour... BTW did you see my post, a way back, regarding the GA EP45-UD3 mobos able to use DDR800 ram?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
I appreciate your humour... BTW did you see my post, a way back, regarding the GA EP45-UD3 mobos able to use DDR800 ram?

+1 For Gigabyte, I've shorted (multiple times), been ruff with and spilt water on mine (while turned on).

Works like new.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
I appreciate your humour... BTW did you see my post, a way back, regarding the GA EP45-UD3 mobos able to use DDR800 ram?

actually no, i never got to it, as i am heading home shortly, when i post again, you can put the stats for the board up for me


----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
I loved the P6T as well! When I rocked my i7 setup (for a whole month) it was sooooo easy to OC my i7 and corrected a LOT of user error! lol

I'm loving this Maximus Extreme too! I have heard bad things about the ASUS warranties, but I hope I never have any issues to find out. *knock on wood*

Why'd you get rid of it?!


----------



## Hadenman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
That looks like a logical mod. Just one question... is your GTX 285 exhausting out of the case or into the case? If out, you may find the hot air is being sucked back into the rad. If into the case, that should be a good solution.

The PCI slot fan can only exhaust out. Good point about the hot air floating up and getting sucked back in. I can ditch this fan. Specs say it only moves 12 CFM. I got it b/c it was on sale, and it has blue LED's that match the rest of my case lighting


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
actually no, i never got to it, as i am heading home shortly, when i post again, you can put the stats for the board up for me









Here ya go...

Quote:

http://www.giga-byte.com.au/FileList....pdf#anchor_os

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hadenman*
The PCI slot fan can only exhaust out. Good point about the hot air floating up and getting sucked back in. I can ditch this fan. Specs say it only moves 12 CFM. I got it b/c it was on sale, and it has blue LED's that match the rest of my case lighting

Give it a fly, if it effects your temps, you can reverse the direction of the fans and have the rad exhaust.


----------



## Wolfeshaman

Wondering do these temps look right to you all? this is with everything at stock
with the setup as fan>Rad> exhaust with the top fans of the case set to exhaust. should i set them to intake?

the fan that is connected to the Rad is better than the stock one that comes with the H50 and is on molex so is running full speed at all times.


----------



## Prugor

Future proud owner of an h50 and other random parts. ^_^


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wolfeshaman* 
Wondering do these temps look right to you all? this is with everything at stock
with the setup as fan>Rad> exhaust with the top fans of the case set to exhaust. should i set them to intake?

the fan that is connected to the Rad is better than the stock one that comes with the H50 and is on molex so is running full speed at all times.

Temps look good - leave as exhaust.

Can you tell me how you have the pump hooked up - mobo header or molex to PSU?

Also the fans you have listed seem to be running slowly - what are those fans used for pls?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Prugor*
Future proud owner of an h50 and other random parts. ^_^

Ya! Welcome. Any questions... you know where to come


----------



## Wolfeshaman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Temps look good - leave as exhaust.

Can you tell me how you have the pump hooked up - mobo header or molex to PSU?

Also the fans you have listed seem to be running slowly - what are those fans used for pls?

Ya! Welcome. Any questions... you know where to come









the fans that are shown are now on the H50 as a push/pull (they were hooked to the mobo and had forgotten to turn the fan control off.) the setup is now as follows
fan>rad>fan exhaust

The pump is a three pin originally and i have an adapter that allowed me to attach it to one of the molex from the PSU

attached is a pic of the new temps after the new setup as you can see the fans (two fans from H50 got one off a friend) are running at a much better speed. i dont know thought the temps would be lower than my aircooler i had. the lowest is not that horribel but it seems to be sitting around 37 for an idle when my air was getting 31 at same speeds. its just confusing.

on a side note i am using OCZ Freeze as that was all i had access to when installing.


----------



## Prugor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Temps look good - leave as exhaust.

Can you tell me how you have the pump hooked up - mobo header or molex to PSU?

Also the fans you have listed seem to be running slowly - what are those fans used for pls?

Ya! Welcome. Any questions... you know where to come









I've been lurking the forums here off and on for about a year. Mostly I was looking for worklogs for the TJ07. So I decided to join when I finally bought a H50.


----------



## Penryn

I have my fans all intake from front and rear of my case with a large exhaust fan on top. Works great, I can feel the airflow if I put my hand inside the case.


----------



## PCSarge

will i'm back, you can post specs on the MB now xD


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


will i'm back, you can post specs on the MB now xD


AHHH... for the third time now









Quote:



http://www.giga-byte.com.au/FileList....pdf#anchor_os



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wolfeshamen*

the fans that are shown are now on the H50 as a push/pull (they were hooked to the mobo and had forgotten to turn the fan control off.) the setup is now as follows
fan>rad>fan exhaust

The pump is a three pin originally and i have an adapter that allowed me to attach it to one of the molex from the PSU

attached is a pic of the new temps after the new setup as you can see the fans (two fans from H50 got one off a friend) are running at a much better speed. i dont know thought the temps would be lower than my aircooler i had. the lowest is not that horribel but it seems to be sitting around 37 for an idle when my air was getting 31 at same speeds. its just confusing.

on a side note i am using OCZ Freeze as that was all i had access to when installing.


They seem reasonable to me. Someone with the same CPU may be able to give you better data. The H50 is heavily reliant on good case cooling when used in exhaust. You may want to review your current intake / exhaust case configuration.

If its of any comfort, Im still fine tuning my setup.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Its not the same mobo but you may get some tips...

Hope this helps

I was mucking around last night and got 4.05Ghz. OCCT Linpack tested for 30mins... went back to stock and went to bed...

Max load @ 68-69c. So, you may see something similar.

Just wish I could get a decent OC on this GTX 275









and i may be smart, and save up money over the next few weeks
and push myself up to an I5 or I7 and DDR3, but we'll see, i'm actually content with my e7400 atm


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
and i may be smart, and save up money over the next few weeks
and push myself up to an I5 or I7 and DDR3, but we'll see, i'm actually content with my e7400 atm


Im not sure where that come from... anyway, here again is the list of compatable ram for the GA-EP45-UD3 series... again. Bugger it, Ill just PM you...

http://www.giga-byte.com.au/FileList....pdf#anchor_os


----------



## luke997

Hi guys,
Sorry to ask this again but never got any reply...

Anyone did comparison with the radiator's barbs at the top vs. bottom?
I've been digging on this one for a week now and most says it doesn't matter since it is closed loop, but few says it does as there is a little bit of gas so with barbs bottom it will eventually stay at the top of radiator thus improving performance.

I was planning to try out barbs-at-the bottom orientation myself but not easily done with storm sniper so before I mod anything I though I'll ask if it's worth trying at all.

Thanks


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *luke997*


Hi guys,
Sorry to ask this again but never got any reply...

Anyone did comparison with the radiator's barbs at the top vs. bottom?
I've been digging on this one for a week now and most says it doesn't matter since it is closed loop, but few says it does as there is a little bit of gas so with barbs bottom it will eventually stay at the top of radiator thus improving performance.

I was planning to try out barbs-at-the bottom orientation myself but not easily done with storm sniper so before I mod anything I though I'll ask if it's worth trying at all.

Thanks


Honestly, the difference is negligible. Go with whichever way looks, and works BEST in your case









Everyone's temps seem to be the same or +-1c no matter how its mounted, so just do what you like.


----------



## luke997

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


Honestly, the difference is negligible. Go with whichever way looks, and works BEST in your case









Everyone's temps seem to be the same or +-1c no matter how its mounted, so just do what you like.


Thanks man, just saved my case from dremel








+1


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *luke997*


Thanks man, just saved my case from dremel








+1


LOL! Well, dremels are ALWAYS fun


----------



## Arclite

add me please,


----------



## Chicken Patty

I see more and more people are starting to mount the H50 towards the front of the case. Interesting


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
I see more and more people are starting to mount the H50 towards the front of the case. Interesting









If you can suck some nice cool air from the front of the case, why not?


----------



## Wolfeshaman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
AHHH... for the third time now









They seem reasonable to me. Someone with the same CPU may be able to give you better data. The H50 is heavily reliant on good case cooling when used in exhaust. You may want to review your current intake / exhaust case configuration.

If its of any comfort, Im still fine tuning my setup.

well as of right now i have four intake fans. two o nthe top of the machine and two in the front. all are 85 CFM give or take a little. the side of the case has nothing but you can feel the air coming out from the + pressure thats inside of the case.... i am hoping to be able to pick up two of the NP-12 noctua fans as they have the really good static pressure from what i have been able to tell.

my ambient i would say has to be around 65. here is another pic though the temps have gone down to what i normally got with my aircooler at this point YAY> finally hitting closer to what i expected.


----------



## PCSarge

you boys crack me up








you just figured out now that we're all mounting it in the cd drive bays in the front and you find it "interesting"


----------



## FloppyNL

I've got mine 2 days ago









(Image here: click


----------



## Alexander99

hey guys new to the owner h50 club


----------



## the.ronin

Since I've used the H50, I gotta be honest and say that I'm a bit apprehensive to leave the computer on unattended. Whereas before, it would be running 24/7 days, weeks, months at a time without so much as an afterthought.

You guys leave yours on all the time, right?


----------



## Jolido

Quote:



Originally Posted by *the.ronin*


Since Iâ€™ve used the H50, I gotta be honest and say that Iâ€™m a bit apprehensive to leave the computer on unattended. Whereas before, it would be running 24/7 days, weeks, months at a time without so much as an afterthought.

You guys leave yours on all the time, right?


Yep! shouldn't worry about it..








cant you set a CPU shutdown temperature in BIOS just in case, if it'd make u feel safer?


----------



## chatch15117




----------



## Willhemmens

^ Looks like a H50.


----------



## Raiden911

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
^ Looks like a H50.

it does?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Raiden911* 
it does?









Yeah, when i bought a H50 it looked just like that, thats how i guessed.


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Yeah, when i bought a H50 it looked just like that, thats how i guessed.

You didn't get a rabbit or stripper jump out a cake? Some even claim to have gotten Romanian prostitutes!

I think you got cheated! ;P


----------



## Jolido

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
Some even claim to have gotten Romanian prostitutes!

I think you got cheated! ;P

Nah they stopped shipping those as most of em got RMA'd


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
You didn't get a rabbit or stripper jump out a cake? Some even claim to have gotten Romanian prostitutes!

I think you got cheated! ;P

Oh, well mine wasnt the size of a stripper or a prostitute so I wasnt really expecting that.

More the same sort of size as the Corsair PSU box I have.

Perhaps I will buy a second to see what i get.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jolido* 
Nah they stopped shipping those as most of em got RMA'd

That makes sence, i mean you might even have to start feeding the stripper/prostitute after a while, costing money. I can see why people RMA'd these units. I would have too.

Anyhow, flesh doesnt conduct heat that well anyway.


----------



## Jolido

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Anyhow, flesh doesnt conduct heat that well anyway.

You'd be surprised!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
That makes sence, i mean you might even have to start feeding the stripper/prostitute after a while, costing money. I can see why people RMA'd these units. I would have too.

Yeah people werent happy with their product once *it* started dying on them :S


----------



## kcuestag

Should I consider my self lucky?

I am right now @ 3,8Ghz with stock voltage ( 1,30v ), it came default like that at 3,4Ghz and without touching voltage it's 100% stable @ 3,8Ghz, did I get a lucky version of my 965 ?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Should I consider my self lucky?

I am right now @ 3,8Ghz with stock voltage ( 1,30v ), it came default like that at 3,4Ghz and without touching voltage it's 100% stable @ 3,8Ghz, did I get a lucky version of my 965 ?









Not just a Lucky chip if those facts are true, one hella chip that you could probabley sell for some $$ or get a monsta clock on. What are temps like?


----------



## rickyman0319

does anyone know how to put second rad on CM960?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rickyman0319* 
does anyone know how to put second rad on CM960?

What do you mean second rad? Do you mean you want to mod your H50 and add a second Rad?


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
What do you mean second rad? Do you mean you want to mod your H50 and add a second Rad?

i am mod H50 right now. i am going to have 2 x 120 rad, resvior and pump? i am trying to put second rad on my CM690. but i dont know where do i put it? is there anyway i can put second rad in the case or not.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rickyman0319* 
i am mod H50 right now. i am going to have 2 x 120 rad, resvior and pump? i am trying to put second rad on my CM690. but i dont know where do i put it? is there anyway i can put second rad in the case or not.

Lots of places. The top has space for a 240, the bottom has space for a 120 and you could mod a 120 into the front, to places on the side panel too for 120's.

Best place would probabley be the fan space on the top of the case nearest the rear of the case.


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Lots of places. The top has space for a 240, the bottom has space for a 120 and you could mod a 120 into the front, to places on the side panel too for 120's.

Best place would probabley be the fan space on the top of the case nearest the rear of the case.

i can put the rad on top of the case what about the fan, where do i put the fan. the fan and rad together are 2 inches.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Not just a Lucky chip if those facts are true, one hella chip that you could probabley sell for some $$ or get a monsta clock on. What are temps like?

Well iddle 33ÂºC full 45ÂºC, but I think I could get better temps if I installed a better thermal paste ( Im using the default one that comes with H50, I bet it could be a bit less degrees with a proper one







)

You think they're good temps ? Never imagined I would get 3,8ghz without touching vcore


----------



## the.ronin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jolido* 
Yep! shouldn't worry about it..








cant you set a CPU shutdown temperature in BIOS just in case, if it'd make u feel safer?

Yup, thatâ€™s in place. What Iâ€™m worried about is leakage. But I guess regardless of whether or not Iâ€™m there, my system will get effed up, right? haha


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rickyman0319* 
i can put the rad on top of the case what about the fan, where do i put the fan. the fan and rad together are 2 inches.

It shouldnt touch anything.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Well iddle 33ÂºC full 45ÂºC, but I think I could get better temps if I installed a better thermal paste ( Im using the default one that comes with H50, I bet it could be a bit less degrees with a proper one







)

You think they're good temps ? Never imagined I would get 3,8ghz without touching vcore









Those are good temps. I think you should try replacing the tim too, you dont know what clocks you might find yourself at. Have you tried upping the voltage and going higher?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *the.ronin* 
Yup, thatâ€™s in place. What Iâ€™m worried about is leakage. But I guess regardless of whether or not Iâ€™m there, my system will get effed up, right? haha

Honestly, I think you should be worried.

All your hardware is expensive.
Do keep in mind that the owners of the only two H50's i've ever heard of leaking got all of their hardware replaced for free.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
It shouldnt touch anything.

Those are good temps. I think you should try replacing the tim too, you dont know what clocks you might find yourself at. Have you tried upping the voltage and going higher?

Honestly, I think you should be worried.

All your hardware is expensive.
Do keep in mind that the owners of the only two H50's i've ever heard of leaking got all of their hardware replaced for free.

No, I didn't try upping to 4GHz, I heard I needed to save something in BIOS or CMOs or smthing, is it true or is it as easy as 3,8ghz? I can try giving it +0.025v more maybe?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
No, I didn't try upping to 4GHz, I heard I needed to save something in BIOS or CMOs or smthing, is it true or is it as easy as 3,8ghz? I can try giving it +0.025v more maybe?

Do you have 3.8GHz saved in your bios?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Do you have 3.8GHz saved in your bios?

Not sure if u call it "saved" but after I upped the multiplier I pressed F10 to save to CMOS then quitted and that's all I did to make OC. is that bad?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *the.ronin* 
Since Iâ€™ve used the H50, I gotta be honest and say that Iâ€™m a bit apprehensive to leave the computer on unattended. Whereas before, it would be running 24/7 days, weeks, months at a time without so much as an afterthought.

You guys leave yours on all the time, right?

I leave mine on 24/7 and never worry about it









Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Should I consider my self lucky?

I am right now @ 3,8Ghz with stock voltage ( 1,30v ), it came default like that at 3,4Ghz and without touching voltage it's 100% stable @ 3,8Ghz, did I get a lucky version of my 965 ?









You sure the voltage on the 965 is 1.3v, or you mean 1.4v? Default voltage is 1.4v. Here is mine at 3.8 GHz without upping vcore.


----------



## kcuestag

I'm sure it's at 1.30v :/


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
I'm sure it's at 1.30v :/

That's weird, you tried different HW Monitoring programs, or maybe checked the BIOS? Puzzled because it's the first time I see this.


----------



## kcuestag

What you mean by HW monitoring, CPU-z and such?

I did , I also ran Linx to make sure it was stable


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
What you mean by HW monitoring, CPU-z and such?

I did , I also ran Linx to make sure it was stable

well there is core temp, hwmonitor, etc. Not doubting your overclock, it's impressive. I'm just puzzled because that is not their default voltage. Maybe your board is detecting the CPU wrong or you have it set manually at lower. Regardless it's impressive.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


well there is core temp, hwmonitor, etc. Not doubting your overclock, it's impressive. I'm just puzzled because that is not their default voltage. Maybe your board is detecting the CPU wrong or you have it set manually at lower. Regardless it's impressive.


I might go for 4Ghz but I don't wanna harm my CPU lol. I heard it loses performance after some time if u make too much OC?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


I might go for 4Ghz but I don't wanna harm my CPU lol. I heard it loses performance after some time if u make too much OC?


As long as your stay under 1.5v and 55Âºc you are fine.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


As long as your stay under 1.5v and 55Âºc you are fine.


Hmm thought it was 62ÂºC max, i'll try 4GHz in 30 mins with a bit of voltage


----------



## PCSarge

new question, got 2 monitors on 1 video card, only one is showing windows and such, and the other only has a duplicate of my backround how do i make them operate as 1 big screen together?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


new question, got 2 monitors on 1 video card, only one is showing windows and such, and the other only has a duplicate of my backround how do i make them operate as 1 big screen together?


Rightclick on desktop > Monitors > Expand


----------



## Liighthead

thinking bout getting a h50 ..... what happens when water runs out tho? x)


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liighthead*


thinking bout getting a h50 ..... what happens when water runs out tho? x)


You mean leak? It doesn't leak.


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


You mean leak? It doesn't leak.


narrr like it has water inside it..... does it run out? and what happens when it runs out x)


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liighthead*


narrr like it has water inside it..... does it run out? and what happens when it runs out x)


It's a sealed system. Water not going to just disappear.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Rightclick on desktop > Monitors > Expand


lol this is convenient now, itunes and coretemp on one screen and prime95 running small ffts with them, and my internet windows and games on the other screen


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


lol this is convenient now, itunes and coretemp on one screen and prime95 running small ffts with them, and my internet windows and games on the other screen










Im glad it worked







I might add my 19" LCD to my 23" 1920x1080p to have Core Temp and other temps craps on the 19" while playinog on the 23"


----------



## Nutriment

Hi guys, I joined this forum because I thought this would be the place with the best info I could get in this cooler, I actually have an azza solano 1000 case and I just installed my noctua nh-u12p.... It cools well, currently overclocked to 3.8 at 1.22v and idle/load is 45/79 on my i7 d0. Unfortunately.... with the cooler installed, I can't get my side panel closed due to the big fat fan, I could remove it but I don't really want to, so I'm asking, does anybody here have a this case with the corsair h50 in push/pull (I'd keep the two nf-p12s [







and if yes, does it fit with the side fan on, I'm pretty sure the cooler can fit and being able to cool as good as my noctua (maybe better???) but can it fit in a push-pull setup with two 25x120x120 mm fans without touching the side fan which already seems to be close to the end of the case. Thanks a lot for answering!

p.s I'll wipe the stock tim and use my nt-h1.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Im glad it worked







I might add my 19" LCD to my 23" 1920x1080p to have Core Temp and other temps craps on the 19" while playinog on the 23"









i actually have 2 identical 19" monitors with side speakers on each, so basically built in surround sound with my current 4 speakers and sub from logitech included


----------



## elson

I just ordered one for my new build.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Hmm thought it was 62ÂºC max, i'll try 4GHz in 30 mins with a bit of voltage









That's the max I like to keep it under. If you want to go higher then stay under 62Âºc I guess.

Here are my load temps at 3.8 GHz. Not bad at all I say.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ablearcher*


The only one was a returned item









I asked the components desk, and they said, "check back on Monday."


Monday???? *Scratch Head and confusion*

Yesterday, I went frys superstore @ notmas/Sacramento. I saw and was like "WOW, millions of H50 boxes on shelves everywhere in store"..


















I knew its impossbily sold out.. Mmm..


----------



## Hawk777th

Hey Chicken.
Is it stable at 3.8 with no vcore bump? I tried mine and when I try Prime 95 it crashes immediatly!

I am also wonderin when I am using hardware monitor and I stop prime 95, my temps go from 47c to 30c in literally 5 secs is this normal with water?


----------



## ablearcher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


Monday???? *Scratch Head*

Yesterday, I went frys superstore @ notmas/Sacramento. I saw and was like "WOW, millions of H50 boxes on shelves like everywhere in store"..


















I knew its impossbily sold out.. Mmm..



Roseville. They were empty (save one restocked item). I picked up the box and stuff was freely moving about inside. I made an inquiry, and they said "check back monday" (last monday).
So I did.

Anyhow:



68C MAX load temp, so far


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


That's the max I like to keep it under. If you want to go higher then stay under 62Âºc I guess.

Here are my load temps at 3.8 GHz. Not bad at all I say.











Damn everyone has better temps than me I don't think it can be the thermal paste tho...

Mine right now @ 3,8Ghz 1,360v ( I had to put it higher it was 1,30v but Pc restarted after playing Bad Company for 1 hour lol ).

And I've seen it hit 50ÂºC :/ Why you guys getting 40-45Âºc full







?


----------



## Hawk777th

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Damn everyone has better temps than me I don't think it can be the thermal paste tho...

Mine right now @ 3,8Ghz 1,360v ( I had to put it higher it was 1,30v but Pc restarted after playing Bad Company for 1 hour lol ).

And I've seen it hit 50ÂºC :/ Why you guys getting 40-45Âºc full







?


One of the problems I found initially was with my antec 1200 case I had my side fan blowing in instead of pulling out, and the heat radiating off my Gtx 295 was getting pulled though the H50 radiator. Went from 49c to 45c. After being in game about an hour.

Maybe make ur side fans pull out instead of blow in.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hawk777th*


One of the problems I found initially was with my antec 1200 case I had my side fan blowing in instead of pulling out, and the heat radiating off my Gtx 295 was getting pulled though the radiator. Went from 49c to 45c. After being in game about an hour.


So you're saying I should put both x2 xigmatek side fans blowing out? This is my current setup:

http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/8913/dsc0072k.jpg

I have 2 orange fans on the side intake, what would u recommend me? I think my temps are too high in my opinion even tho I have "push/pull" setup.


----------



## R1P5AW

Heres my i7 920 @ 4.0GHz

I'm doing push/pull intake on a HAF 932. I'm using the stock corsair fan and a XION 120mm ($3.99 at MicroCenter)

If I buy better fans what kind of temp decreases can I see?

And which fans do you recommend?

+rep to good answers..


----------



## Hawk777th

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


So you're saying I should put both x2 xigmatek side fans blowing out? This is my current setup:

http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/8913/dsc0072k.jpg

I have 2 orange fans on the side intake, what would u recommend me? I think my temps are too high in my opinion even tho I have "push/pull" setup.


I would give it a try. It made almost a 8c difference in game by making the side fans pull out the vid card heat...I was baffled under Prime 95 I was only getting 45c then I played BFBC2 and say 49-50c I was like ***! No way a game could stress as hard as Prime or occt! I dawned on me that the heat radiating of my GPU was getting pulled through my H50 and makeing my temps hotter. Haven seen anything about 45c since.

R1P5 I really like my coolermaster R4s they arent the quietest thing in the world but the keep her cool!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hawk777th*


I would give it a try. It made almost a 8c difference in game by making the side fans pull out the vid card heat...I was baffled under Prime 95 I was only getting 45c then I played BFBC2 and say 49-50c I was like ***! No way a game could stress as hard as Prime or occt! I dawned on me that the heat radiating of my GPU was getting pulled through my H50 and makeing my temps hotter. Haven seen anything about 45c since.


Yeah it might be that, I had a HD5850 Toxic yesterday and temps were good, now that I have a 5970 today, they're quite higher, im gonna install another 2 fans I have spare and have them take out the hot air from gpu, ill let u know in 10 mins


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Decided to get the H50 because nothing can beat it it it's price range.








Add me!


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Oh what fans you guys use with it?


----------



## Hawk777th

Check above, also on the first page thier is a list Db vs cfm. I love my coolermaster R4s Im using!


----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hawk777th* 
Check above, also on the first page thier is a list Db vs cfm. I love my coolermaster R4s Im using!

I know theres a list on the first page and I don't wanna skim through 550pages lol

Are there any "best" fans for the H50 or ones everyone recommends?


----------



## Hawk777th

Noctuas if you want quite with good static pressure, and R4s are pretty decent lots of cfm not a ton of noise. Anything crazier than those is just more db.


----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hawk777th* 
Noctuas if you want quite with good static pressure, and R4s are pretty decent lots of cfm not a ton of noise. Anything crazier than those is just more db.

Sounds good. A posted a thread about it. Hopefully I can get some good ideas. +rep


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R1P5AW* 
Sounds good. A posted a thread about it. Hopefully I can get some good ideas. +rep

Gentle Typhoon AP-15


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Whats the cfm and dba of the corsair fan it comes with?


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Gentle Typhoon AP-15

+1 on these


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast* 
Whats the cfm and dba of the corsair fan it comes with?

cfm = 59.05

db(A) = 29.75

...[ stated spec's from a review = " The kit also comes with a single 7-blade 120x120x25mm cooling fan that runs at 1700RPM. After contacting the engineers at Corsair we were informed that the fan was sourced from well known cooling fan manufacturer Akasa. The model AK174CB-4BLB cooling fan has a 50,000 hour life span and a twin ball bearing design. This fan consumes 2.2W when running at 1700RPM and has a noise level of 29.75 dB(A). The max airflow is 59.05CFM, with a static pressure of 3.57mm H20." ]

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## chatch15117




----------



## pcnuttie

Antec 900.. oh man memories having a tower like that but it all gave me headaches! I love my 1200 better. Nice set up anyhow. I still find it funny you tested it before putting it in, cuz you're paranoid of leaks and this cooler is MADE not to leak but better safe than sorry lmao! Why white cathode? Puzzles me ppl like it white. I like my case UV!


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R1P5AW*


Heres my i7 920 @ 4.0GHz

I'm doing push/pull intake on a HAF 932. I'm using the stock corsair fan and a XION 120mm ($3.99 at MicroCenter)

If I buy better fans what kind of temp decreases can I see?

And which fans do you recommend?

+rep to good answers..


I mentioned this already, but, I'll say it again.. Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (1850 rpm) double ball-bearing fans. The end.


----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


I mentioned this already, but, I'll say it again.. Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (1850 rpm) double ball-bearing fans. The end.










These bad boys?


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R1P5AW*


These bad boys?


Yep and here's a great place to get them if you want them sleeved








http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24749


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R1P5AW*


These bad boys?


Yep, those are the ones. Also, you may want to check them out at Performance-PCs instead, they are cheaper than Newegg and will sleeve the wires for you!









EDIT: LOL Jocelyn84 beat me to it! +rep for being so quick!


----------



## rickyman0319

Hi. i am thiinking to mod H50 with a tube and resivor and put inside my case. i am wondering which way is the best way with a mod H50.

1. fan - shroud - rad - fan
2. fan - rad - fan

i want to know which way will make my pc coldest. or maybe is you find some other way please tell me.

thank you.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*


Hi. i am thiinking to mod H50 with a tube and resivor and put inside my case. i am wondering which way is the best way with a mod H50.

1. fan - shroud - rad - fan
2. fan - rad - fan

i want to know which way will make my pc coldest. or maybe is you find some other way please tell me.

thank you.


To make the "pc" the coldest, you'll probably want exhaust. To make the "cpu" the coldest, you'll probably want intake. Granted, this will vary from case to case, so you may have to sample this yourself to see what is best.

If you decide to use a shroud, put in on the "pull" side, it's supposedly much better there.


----------



## antonio8

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lord*


i have a corsair stock fan and my sniper case stock fan on my h50 as push n pull intake.

i have the corsair fan pushing air and case fan pulling air.

corsair fan has 16xx rpm whereas case fan has 11xx rpm.

am i doing it correctly?

please reply as this is the third time i'm asking the same question










Hey Lord,

Don't take this the wrong way if I am reading your thread wrong.

I have the Storm Sniper case also. So if you mean case fans as the 200mm then yes you are doing it wrong.

The push/pull means having a 120mm fan in front of the radiator and one 120mm on the rear of the radiator. Which way you set it up is up to you.

I have mine as case←fan←shroud←radiator←fan. So everything is inside the case.

Again sorry if I misread your thread. I do not want to come off as I am speaking to you like you do not know what you are doing. But like I said if you mean case fans as the top,side and front 200mm fans then they do not figure into the push/pull radiator, only for case airflow.


----------



## PCSarge

*sings duran duran music* the re-flex is a lonely child, just waiting by the poooooooooooooond, the re-flex is the joy of finding treasure in the daaaaaaaaaaarkkk, try y y y y y y not to bruise it, why y y y y not abuse it, buy y y y y time dont loseee ittt, every little thing the reflex does, gives an answer with a question more!


----------



## shizdan

When I tried to take off the stock paste some got in the sides (In where all the screws are) Any good way to clean it out from there?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shizdan* 
When I tried to take off the stock paste some got in the sides (In where all the screws are) Any good way to clean it out from there?

ummm yeah... take a knife with a pointy end and remove it from inside the screw heads?


----------



## Mygaffer

I am very happy with my Corsair H50. I recently did a new build, my new sig rig, and while I haven't overclocked yet the temps are very nice.

Idle temps:









Load temps:


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Is it better with stock thermal paste or something like arctic silver?
And is this test accurate?

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...&limitstart=12


----------



## shizdan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
ummm yeah... take a knife with a pointy end and remove it from inside the screw heads?

Any other opinions? I dont want to risk cutting it up!


----------



## Mygaffer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shizdan* 
Any other opinions? I dont want to risk cutting it up!

Q-tip


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mygaffer* 
Q-tip

qtips... the most useless invention of the 21st century....till thermal paste worked its way into hard to clean areas


----------



## shizdan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
qtips... the most useless invention of the 21st century....till thermal paste worked its way into hard to clean areas

What about an air compressor?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shizdan* 
What about an air compressor?

no, those power nail guns... which in turn fasten shingles to your roof, so no they are not useless


----------



## squiggly

Just signed up because of this thread. Now an owner of an H50 sooo....









Will update sig ect.. spent the whole night rebuilding 3 comps so kind of tired.

My initial impressions of th H50 are almost all good.

Looking forward to learning from all the good people here









Great thread and site guys!!!

Steve...


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hawk777th*


Hey Chicken.
Is it stable at 3.8 with no vcore bump? I tried mine and when I try Prime 95 it crashes immediatly!

I am also wonderin when I am using hardware monitor and I stop prime 95, my temps go from 47c to 30c in literally 5 secs is this normal with water?


Yes, no vcore bump at all. As far as your temps dropping that quick, yeah I'd say it's fine.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Damn everyone has better temps than me I don't think it can be the thermal paste tho...

Mine right now @ 3,8Ghz 1,360v ( I had to put it higher it was 1,30v but Pc restarted after playing Bad Company for 1 hour lol ).

And I've seen it hit 50ÂºC :/ Why you guys getting 40-45Âºc full







?


I'm on a Danger Den Torture Rack so my temps are also helped by that since it's open.


----------



## elson

These should be put into push/pull as intakes? if i read correctly.
How do they fare as p/p exhaust?


----------



## clee413

Sup club, I just got my H50 tonight and I'm about to prep for installation. This will be my first Water Cooling install, and I'm a bit nervous. Any tips?


----------



## Hadenman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *clee413*


Sup club, I just got my H50 tonight and I'm about to prep for installation. This will be my first Water Cooling install, and I'm a bit nervous. Any tips?


Installing the H50 is as easy, or easier, than installing an air cooler. Nothing to worry about. It's not at all like setting up a custom water loop, and doesn't have any of the risks that might come with such a setup.

Have fun, and definitely play around with the fan configuration if you don't like the temps after the initial install.


----------



## insidertrading

hi guys

im from sydney australia, and try as i might, i simply cannot find the screws i need to attaach the second fan.

could anyone do me a personal favour and mail me the 4 screws that are needed?

it would be very very much appreciated.


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *insidertrading*


hi guys

im from sydney australia, and try as i might, i simply cannot find the screws i need to attaach the second fan.

could anyone do me a personal favour and mail me the 4 screws that are needed?

it would be very very much appreciated.


----------



## Hadenman

For anyone interested, I finished a mod on my case today, and rearranged the fan configuration on my H50. Here is my post with pics and test results:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8739674

Thanks to Sethy666 for giving me some helpful responses earlier today.


----------



## insidertrading

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*













hi thanks for that, but i already trawled your accesories post and serached through all the brick and motar stores in sydney to no avail!

is there any online store that i could get them from withoiut paying ludicrous shipping?

been on ebay but they either charge super expensive shipping or do not ship internationnally


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *insidertrading*


hi guys

im from sydney australia, and try as i might, i simply cannot find the screws i need to attaach the second fan.

could anyone do me a personal favour and mail me the 4 screws that are needed?

it would be very very much appreciated.


I'm pretty sure there were a few threads on their metric dimensions here 
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/forumdisplay.php?f=155

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*












I'm not saying you need to mail them screws lol, but they use metric; you can't just go get that size screw.


----------



## clee413

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hadenman*


Installing the H50 is as easy, or easier, than installing an air cooler. Nothing to worry about. It's not at all like setting up a custom water loop, and doesn't have any of the risks that might come with such a setup.

Have fun, and definitely play around with the fan configuration if you don't like the temps after the initial install.


I guess the big question is, do you recommend intank or exhaust?


----------



## Hadenman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *clee413*


I guess the big question is, do you recommend intank or exhaust?


Well, I just switched from push/pull exhaust to push/pull, intake, and I got much better results from the second configuration. But, from reading other posts, I've seen both setups work best for different people. Just depends on your case size, overall airflow, et cetera. With intake, you definitely get the coolest air pushed through the rad. But, you need to have good enough exhaust to compensate for the H50 blowing the heated air into the case.


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *clee413*


I guess the big question is, do you recommend intank or exhaust?


More info on Asetek coolers:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


Asetek makes the H50. Asetek also makes there own brand coolers. There is the Asetek LCLC and the Asetek LCLC 240MM Radiator. From what I understand the H50 has water inside them and the Asetek brand has a some sort of a liquid cooling fluid. Check some other Asetek coolers, NorthQ, Maingear, Alienware, HP, and others. Again Corasir doesn't even make the H50, Asetek does. The engineers who make the H50 recommend the their unit to be in exhaust, for good reason to. I say listen to a trained engineer, not a untrained benchmarker at Corsair. The intake vs exhaust is more based on your GFX card and Case. Corsair recommends intake, but Asetek the company who actually makes the H50 recommends exhaust. Like I said it really has to do with your GFX card and case. If you have a GFX with an air handler that blows hot air out the rear of your case. Its a good idea to have the H50 in exhaust. If you have a Vapor-X type of GFX card with no air handler, its better to be intake. Also do you have a place for that hot air to go once its in your PC case. For the guys who have an air handlers on their GFX cards and their H50s in intake, need to be warned. Do to the season and AC'd rooms, hot air from your GFX card is mixing with the cool air inside the radiator of the H50. This mixing creates condensation. That condensation is moisture that is now being blowing into your PC. But don't pay me no mind, feel free to try any way you like, and post about it. That's what this site is here for.

"*Asetekâ€™s factory sealed liquid cooling system is specifically designed to exhaust CPU heat directly outside of the chassis.*" - Asetek


----------



## clee413

Much appreciated guys. +Rep to both.

Question, My Scout (case) has a rear fan (CoolerMaster). Would it be a poor choice to use the coolermaster fan (Molex) instead of the corsair fan 4pin that came with the H50?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *clee413* 
Sup club, I just got my H50 tonight and I'm about to prep for installation. This will be my first Water Cooling install, and I'm a bit nervous. Any tips?

Just think of it as a air cooler. This thing requires no maintenence and no special installation. Just install it and go. Good luck


----------



## Danny Boy

Hey quick question, what temps Do people get with there oc'd unlocked 550be?


----------



## meru

Quote:



Originally Posted by *clee413*


I guess the big question is, do you recommend intank or exhaust?


It depends on your case, and what kind of air flow your case has.

I for one use it as an intake.


----------



## tinytimm84

Hey guys! I *just* installed my Corsair H50 onto my CPU this afternoon (around 2:30pm CST), and was stoked to finally have it--until I came home to find it's doing a *worse* job at cooling my CPU than the STOCK heatsink/fan I previously had on it. I double and triple-checked my installation of it, and everything is where and as it should be. Is this normal? Does it take a few days for it to "kick in" (so to speak)? Or have I just completely missed something...

Here's my current setup/settings:

AMD Phenom II x4 965 BE (NOT oc'd)
ASUS M4A785-M Mobo
4GB OCZ Plat 800MHz DDR2
Apevia Warlock 750w PSU
BFG GeForce GTX 260 (896MB) GPU (single, not SLI...mobo doesn't have 2nd PCI-E x16 slot...







)

The fan is set to max, and my CPU voltage is at 1.315v (variably jumping to 1.33-1.341v), yet my temp (at idle) is steady at 48C (compared to the 44C it was with the stock fan), and I haven't dared to test it out at a full load for longer than 30 minutes (temp only went up to 53C, but I didn't feel safe continuing the torture test in the case I've missed something). Again, is this a normal idle temp for some people?? I've been reading (on non-OC'd 965s) about people sitting at 28C - 33C while idling...what gives? Any thoughts, input, advice, or questions would be GREATLY appreciated and welcomed!!

Thanks!

-LB

**Post-posting edit: Upon digging a little further, it has come to my realization that I am *not*, in fact, 100% positive on whether or not the fan is set to max. I don't think Speedfan is reading things properly, and I'm not positive on how to adjust the fan speed otherwise. Any suggestions?**


----------



## FloppyNL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tinytimm84*


Hey guys! I *just* installed my Corsair H50 onto my CPU this afternoon (around 2:30pm CST), and was stoked to finally have it--until I came home to find it's doing a *worse* job at cooling my CPU than the STOCK heatsink/fan I previously had on it. I double and triple-checked my installation of it, and everything is where and as it should be. Is this normal? Does it take a few days for it to "kick in" (so to speak)? Or have I just completely missed something...

Here's my current setup/settings:

AMD Phenom II x4 965 BE (NOT oc'd)
ASUS M4A785-M Mobo
4GB OCZ Plat 800MHz DDR2
Apevia Warlock 750w PSU
BFG GeForce GTX 260 (896MB) GPU (single, not SLI...mobo doesn't have 2nd PCI-E x16 slot...







)

The fan is set to max, and my CPU voltage is at 1.315v (variably jumping to 1.33-1.341v), yet my temp (at idle) is steady at 48C (compared to the 44C it was with the stock fan), and I haven't dared to test it out at a full load for longer than 30 minutes (temp only went up to 53C, but I didn't feel safe continuing the torture test in the case I've missed something). Again, is this a normal idle temp for some people?? I've been reading (on non-OC'd 965s) about people sitting at 28C - 33C while idling...what gives? Any thoughts, input, advice, or questions would be GREATLY appreciated and welcomed!!

Thanks!

-LB

**Post-posting edit: Upon digging a little further, it has come to my realization that I am *not*, in fact, 100% positive on whether or not the fan is set to max. I don't think Speedfan is reading things properly, and I'm not positive on how to adjust the fan speed otherwise. Any suggestions?**


My temps are ~30C idle, max 42C stressed on 4.0GHz (Phenom II 955BE). So yeh, your temps are high.

Btw, does your Pump run at 12V? (I remember the dude in the corsair video said that you should watch out for the voltage being throttled)


----------



## tinytimm84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FloppyNL*


My temps are ~30C idle, max 42C stressed on 4.0GHz (Phenom II 955BE). So yeh, your temps are high.

Btw, does your Pump run at 12V? (I remember the dude in the corsair video said that you should watch out for the voltage being throttled)


Uh...how do I go about checking that? Lol...at times, I am a complete nab


----------



## clee413

Well, just finished installing the Corsair H50 Hydro Series, & I'm joining the club







.. So far, very good cooling.. As of now I am sitting idle at 29C but I have read that it takes a day or two for the thermal to set for optimal temperatures.

I had a hell of a time getting the radiator on (trouble with screws).

Here is the finished result.. pardon the wires


----------



## GAMERIG

H50 owners,

Have you seen the H50 Custom LED of this? :








from *EVGA MODS RIGS*. NOTE: photo and case aren't mine..


----------



## FloppyNL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tinytimm84*


Uh...how do I go about checking that? Lol...at times, I am a complete nab


Well the BIOS would throttle it, so I guess in the BIOS? (Sorry, I'm also unfamiliar with this).


----------



## Fallen Angel -X

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ohzer0*


just remounted after getting my noctuas

push/pull intake did a ghetto mount with zipties










IDLE: 28-32
LOAD: 55-60 with the heater on


Is their a advantage to mounting it this way?

Thnx


----------



## kcuestag

Can anyone suggest me a "good" vcore for my 965 BE C3 for 4Ghz? I never triede 4GHz and I want to try it now









Edit:

http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/8913/dsc0072k.jpg

You think if I put the 5970 on the lower blue PCI-e it will lower the temps? Also, is that 2nd PCI-e x16?


----------



## Exek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
You think if I put the 5970 on the lower blue PCI-e it will lower the temps? Also, is that 2nd PCI-e x16?

Don't think what switching card to down slot will lower temps, space between northbridge and gpu is okey, from gigabyte website info your mobo is dual pcie x16 2.0 slots.









P.S: Here is mostly the i7 users and just few quad/duo, so it's kinda hard to compare temps, do you guys think those temps fine ? I'm using a pair of 2 Scythe S Flex's 1600 rmp both (2k stock) with a shroud for pull fan.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Exek* 
Don't think what switching card to down slot will lower temps, space between northbridge and gpu is okey, from gigabyte website info your mobo is dual pcie x16 2.0 slots.









P.S: Here is mostly the i7 users and just few quad/duo, so it's kinda hard to compare temps, do you guys think those temps fine ? I'm using a pair of 2 Scythe S Flex's 1600 rmp both (2k stock) with a shroud for pull fan.










Thanks for the info.

I took my CPU to 4Ghz @ 1,40v and after 30 secs of Linx I got a BSOD, so now im @ 1,360v for 3,9Ghz stable, you think after 1,40 its dangerous? Altho I don't think from 3,9Ghz to 4Ghz ill notice anything


----------



## Exek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Thanks for the info.

I took my CPU to 4Ghz @ 1,40v and after 30 secs of Linx I got a BSOD, so now im @ 1,360v for 3,9Ghz stable, you think after 1,40 its dangerous? Altho I don't think from 3,9Ghz to 4Ghz ill notice anything










From those AMD overcloking i saw 1.4 is good, it's actually the place where you must stop if you are gonna use intel cpu's for 24/7, but not for amd user's. And difference between 3.7 and 3.8 for example wont be that visible, but difference between 3.9 and 4.0 is kinda visible i think.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tinytimm84*


Uh...how do I go about checking that? Lol...at times, I am a complete nab


Do you have your pump connected to the motherboard or to the PSU? If you have it connected to the motherboard it might be throttling the pump. Connect it to the PSU.

Also, make sure the block is not too tight or too loose. You sure the backplate is in place correctly, maybe it's not applying pressure evenly.


----------



## kcuestag

I am a bit dissapointed at the H50









36ÂºC iddle and 50-51Âºc full ( Bad Company 2 heats it up more than Linx  )

I am running it at 3,9Ghz right now with 1,392v, am I doing anything wrong? I have them as intake both fans push/pull, I tried leaving them as exhaust but then it was even worse... So I don't know what to do, I think my case has enough fans lol.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast*


Is it better with stock thermal paste or something like arctic silver?
And is this test accurate?

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...&limitstart=12



Quote:



Originally Posted by *shizdan*


Any other opinions? I dont want to risk cutting it up!



Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


I am a bit dissapointed at the H50









36ÂºC iddle and 50-51Âºc full ( Bad Company 2 heats it up more than Linx  )

I am running it at 3,9Ghz right now with 1,392v, am I doing anything wrong? I have them as intake both fans push/pull, I tried leaving them as exhaust but then it was even worse... So I don't know what to do, I think my case has enough fans lol.


Whats you ambient temp? Those temps dont sound too bad.

Also, are you sure your using LinX right as LinX heats my CPU up much much more than any game.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Whats you ambient temp? Those temps dont sound too bad.

Also, are you sure your using LinX right as LinX heats my CPU up much much more than any game.


Yeah I am using Linx for like 15 minutes.

About the ambient temp, I would say 19ÂºC-23Âºc


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Yeah I am using Linx for like 15 minutes.

About the ambient temp, I would say 19ÂºC-23Âºc


I dont know what other 965 owners would say but i dont think your temps are too bad. What fans are you using and have you replaced the tim?

What size of memory are you setting LinX to use?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


I dont know what other 965 owners would say but i dont think your temps are too bad. What fans are you using and have you replaced the tim?

What size of memory are you setting LinX to use?


Memory: 772

The temps don't look too bad but it's not hot in my room so I can't imagine when summer is here :/

It might also be HD5970 tho, it's too warm card, and noisy... Not sure if Im happy about the buy :/ Maybe should've stayed with 5850 toxic.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Memory: 772

The temps don't look too bad but it's not hot in my room so I can't imagine when summer is here :/

It might also be HD5970 tho, it's too warm card, and noisy... Not sure if Im happy about the buy :/ Maybe should've stayed with 5850 toxic.

What fans are you using and have you replaced the stock tim?

Try setting LinX to use like 2 or 3GB of Ram, thats what i use.

Also, hows the 5970 going?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


What fans are you using and have you replaced the stock tim?

Try setting LinX to use like 2 or 3GB of Ram, thats what i use.

Also, hows the 5970 going?


Im using it like this:

< Corsair fan < Rad < Xigmatek 120mm @ 1500rpm with led

The temps seem to be fine now, don't ask me why, but now it doesn't reach 50Âºc on BC2 anymore, I have it @ 3,9Ghz with 1,36v and it seems fine.

About the 5970, I was dissapointed about the noise, but hey, I had a HD5850 Toxic before, that one is a dead card, makes 0 noise







I expected that, so I can't really be sad, the card behaves awesome.

The games that gained most performance were:

Dirt2: HD5850 Toxic I had 50-60fps HIGHEST settings including AAx8, with HD5970 AAx8 and ultra settings aswell, 75-90fps 1920x1080 .

Just Cause 2 demo: HD5850 I had like 40-50 and with 5970 I've never seen it go below 95fps.

ON Bad Company 2 I haven't seen a great change, sometimes it can be 100fps but sometimes it can be @ 60fps same as my old 5850 Toxic, I don't know if it's supposed to be like that tho.


----------



## voodoo71

Hey guys. Has anyone lapped there H50. If you did what did you use to lap it with? Thanks for any help


----------



## Hadenman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *voodoo71* 
Hey guys. Has anyone lapped there H50. If you did what did you use to lap it with? Thanks for any help

I lapped it shortly after I got it. Here is a pic: http://img197.imageshack.us/i/cimg1246v.jpg/.

I was lazy and got one of these lapping kits from FrozenCPU: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/28...pping_Kit.html.

You can probably put the same thing together for several dollars cheaper at your local hardware store. It's what I'll do the next time I attempt to lap something.


----------



## tinytimm84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Do you have your pump connected to the motherboard or to the PSU? If you have it connected to the motherboard it might be throttling the pump. Connect it to the PSU.

Also, make sure the block is not too tight or too loose. You sure the backplate is in place correctly, maybe it's not applying pressure evenly.

OK...I wound up getting a molex to connect the pump to my PSU. Also, I turned the "unleash" mode (the mode that, according to BIOS, "unleashes the full computing power of my processor") off. I'm using PC Wizard 2010 to monitor my temps/voltages, and right now (with a non-OC'd 965), it says my CPU temp is 44C. However, it ALSO shows all four temps of the CPU CORES, and the CORES' temps are 32.5C. Which temp is the REAL temp I should be worrying about? Also, I checked the block and it's not too tight OR too loose (by my standards). Each screw is firm, but can still be easily tightened or loosened. The backplate is secure as well. Any thoughts?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tinytimm84* 
OK...I wound up getting a molex to connect the pump to my PSU. Also, I turned the "unleash" mode (the mode that, according to BIOS, "unleashes the full computing power of my processor") off. I'm using PC Wizard 2010 to monitor my temps/voltages, and right now (with a non-OC'd 965), it says my CPU temp is 44C. However, it ALSO shows all four temps of the CPU CORES, and the CORES' temps are 32.5C. Which temp is the REAL temp I should be worrying about? Also, I checked the block and it's not too tight OR too loose (by my standards). Each screw is firm, but can still be easily tightened or loosened. The backplate is secure as well. Any thoughts?

can you download core temp and give us a screenshot?


----------



## sintricate

I just swapped out my 25mm scythe push fan for an ultrakaze3k and i only have a 1C difference


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sintricate* 
I just swapped out my 25mm scythe push fan for an ultrakaze3k and i only have a 1C difference









I wouldn't expect much more. Flows just a bit more, maybe even worse static pressure. If you would have swapped it out for a 38mm fan then you should have expected a little more.

Why don't you get another kaze and put them in push and pull config? That'll shave a few degrees off.


----------



## tinytimm84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
can you download core temp and give us a screenshot?

here's the screen from core temp...


----------



## sintricate

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


If you would have swapped it out for a 38mm fan then you should have expected a little more.

Why don't you get another kaze and put them in push and pull config? That'll shave a few degrees off.


I did swap it out for a 38mm fan. I replaced a 25mm fan with a 38mm fan.

I think 1 Ultrakaze is enough for me lol.


----------



## kcuestag

I don't know what's going on right now...

I didn't touch anything, still @ 3,9GHz with 1,360v and I quitted BC2 and now just on MSN + Steam +

  
 YouTube- DJ Raaban - Anima Libera  



 
 and it's @ 41Âºc ***?...

I am starting to think if the H50 is actually word it's 70â‚¬ or is it just crap :/ Is that normal?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tinytimm84*


here's the screen from core temp...


Looks like you are idling at 32-34Âºc, seems very good to me.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sintricate*


I did swap it out for a 38mm fan. I replaced a 25mm fan with a 38mm fan.

I think 1 Ultrakaze is enough for me lol.


meh, i was confused with the fan. Sorry about that. Hmmm, I don't know. I do know that the H50 benefits tremendously from P & P though, I would give it a shot, you'll see some nice gains I'm sure.


----------



## tinytimm84

Chicken Patty said:


> Looks like you are idling at 32-34Âºc, seems very good to me.
> 
> Thanks a ton, man! I was starting to wonder if I had a faulty unit, or if I was going mental or something. Thanks for helpin' a nooblet like me out!


----------



## Chicken Patty

tinytimm84 said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*
> Looks like you are idling at 32-34Âºc, seems very good to me.
> 
> Thanks a ton, man! I was starting to wonder if I had a faulty unit, or if I was going mental or something. Thanks for helpin' a nooblet like me out!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was once one too! Enjoy it


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
I don't know what's going on right now...

I didn't touch anything, still @ 3,9GHz with 1,360v and I quitted BC2 and now just on MSN + Steam + YouTube- DJ Raaban - Anima Libera and it's @ 41Âºc ***?...

I am starting to think if the H50 is actually word it's 70â‚¬ or is it just crap :/ Is that normal?









Pretty normal for a chip at 3.9GHz.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Pretty normal for a chip at 3.9GHz.

Hmm..

Might be true, however I had better temps yesterday, don't ask me why...

Now, here is the weird thing which is scaring me:



That temp is at iddle... ***? XD.


----------



## sintricate

^Thats a whole different thread right there lol


----------



## Electroneng

Just finished swapping out a Dark Knight Push pull set-up with the H50 Hydo.

Temperature drop = 2c idle (41-> 39)
Temperature drop = 8c IBT (20 Passes 3.9ghz 75-> 67c)

H50 Set-up as push pull exhaust with CM R4 90CFM Fans

Used OCZ Freeze to install!

This Cooler is very good!


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Electroneng*


Just finished swapping out a Dark Knight Push pull set-up with the H50 Hydo.

Temperature drop = 2c idle (41-> 39)
Temperature drop = 8c IBT (20 Passes 3.9ghz 75-> 67c)

H50 Set-up as push pull exhaust with CM R4 90CFM Fans

Used OCZ Freeze to install!

This Cooler is very good!


Thanks for the info, yet another happy H50 owner


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sintricate* 
^Thats a whole different thread right there lol

Well I think my temp issues might be due to my HD5970 heating up whole case lol.


----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Well I think my temp issues might be due to my HD5970 heating up whole case lol.

Hey did you post any guts pics with the 5970??


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R1P5AW* 
Hey did you post any guts pics with the 5970??

http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/9577/dsc0069lr.jpg

http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/8913/dsc0072k.jpg

Cheers









I was told putting a fan blowing into the CPU block helped a lot, is that true? If so, any suggestions on how to put a fan blowing right to the block? I don't seem to find an easy way to do that in my case


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/9577/dsc0069lr.jpg

http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/8913/dsc0072k.jpg

Cheers









I was told putting a fan blowing into the CPU block helped a lot, is that true? If so, any suggestions on how to put a fan blowing right to the block? I don't seem to find an easy way to do that in my case 

Sexy vid card









It was posted earlier in this thread that a fan on the water block itself helped temps. I personally haven't tried it but it's worth a shot.


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
I am starting to think if the H50 is actually word it's 70€ or is it just crap :/ Is that normal?









What are you expecting?

If you want to see the temps you are 'expecting' you will likely need to get a custom CPU loop with a double/triple radiator.

That should cost you at least 200€, if not a lot more.

So if you want that, sell your H50, and spend more money on a custom loop. Your choice









That's what I did! (still waiting on gear, but I will be able to give you some improvement numbers once I have set it up).


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
What are you expecting?

If you want to see the temps you are 'expecting' you will likely need to get a custom CPU loop with a double/triple radiator.

That should cost you at least 200â‚¬, if not a lot more.

So if you want that, sell your H50, and spend more money on a custom loop. Your choice










That's what I did! (still waiting on gear, but I will be able to give you some improvement numbers once I have set it up).

A lot of us in here are getting better temps than him, his seem rather high. His idle is my load temps at similar settings. He's running less voltage than me as well. I have suggested him different things through MSN that he will try tomorrow, hopefully that gets the temps a little better. I do agree with getting a custom loop for better results, however I wouldn't give up on this yet if I were him.


----------



## tinytimm84

Ok...now that (thanks to Chicken Patty) I know that I have installed my H50 properly...does anyone have a RELIABLE link to overclocking a 965 BE?? I'm a *complete noob* to such a thing, but I'd like a link to somewhere that will set me off "on the right foot", if that's possible! Any suggestions?


----------



## h2on0

http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...ing-guide.html


----------



## kcuestag

That's not the problem, I love the H50 coz it's very silent, but I don't understant how with such low vcore im getting higher temps than anyone in here









Chicken.Patty, tried what you told me, lowered temps on iddle by 3Âºc.


----------



## kcuestag

Thanks to Chicken Patty for all the help, remember last night just on youtube I was @ 41ÂºC?

Well, I changed the H50 to exhaust like you told me, also added a 80mm giving air right to the cpu block ( Im holding it with the H50 tubes, its not heavy so don't think its bad at all ) and also changed the 3rd side fan to intake as you told me ( Was hard to remove that "plane" screw







) and now Im doing same stuff @ 33ÂºC.

Thanks a bunch, I think im also gonna replace the top 230mm fan from the HAF 932 for x2 120mm.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tinytimm84* 
Ok...now that (thanks to Chicken Patty) I know that I have installed my H50 properly...does anyone have a RELIABLE link to overclocking a 965 BE?? I'm a *complete noob* to such a thing, but I'd like a link to somewhere that will set me off "on the right foot", if that's possible! Any suggestions?











Hey, the first search result is a PDF, click that. It has everything you need to know about overclocking your CPU bro.

http://www.google.com/search?q=amd+u...ient=firefox-a

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
That's not the problem, I love the H50 coz it's very silent, but I don't understant how with such low vcore im getting higher temps than anyone in here









Chicken.Patty, tried what you told me, lowered temps on iddle by 3Âºc.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Thanks to Chicken Patty for all the help, remember last night just on youtube I was @ 41ÂºC?

Well, I changed the H50 to exhaust like you told me, also added a 80mm giving air right to the cpu block ( Im holding it with the H50 tubes, its not heavy so don't think its bad at all ) and also changed the 3rd side fan to intake as you told me ( Was hard to remove that "plane" screw







) and now Im doing same stuff @ 33ÂºC.

Thanks a bunch, I think im also gonna replace the top 230mm fan from the HAF 932 for x2 120mm.

awesome bro, glad your temps dropped







Holding the fan by the tubes is not bad at all, I've done that many times before with different loops, never affected anything. You can try now taking the fan on the CPU off, and just see if the corrected airflow in the case keeps the temps cool.


----------



## kcuestag

So I have 20-25â‚¬ spare in my wallet and decided to buy a mousepad and a Arctic Silver V.

Is it good?


----------



## antonio8

Finally caught up on reading every page.

Question for those using the molex connector for the pump. Are you using the adapter with just the red and black wires?

Thanks.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *antonio8*


Finally caught up on reading every page.

Question for those using the molex connector for the pump. Are you using the adapter with just the red and black wires?

Thanks.


Lol same question here







My adapter only has red and black wires, so not sure if that is ok, it's missing yellow...


----------



## Chico212

First Post







. hello to everyone.

im thinking of buying the H50, with a MSI 790fx-GD70 in the near future with a 965 or a 955 Phenom II. I have one question, i don't plan on overclocking right now, but may in the future, should i purchase this to replace the stock AMD cooler , will it be better than stock? i live in the Caribbean it gets a constant 33 - 35 temps during the Hot months. should i consider this over the Stock cooler or not?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *antonio8*


Finally caught up on reading every page.

Question for those using the molex connector for the pump. Are you using the adapter with just the red and black wires?

Thanks.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Lol same question here







My adapter only has red and black wires, so not sure if that is ok, it's missing yellow...


The yellow cable is just for Fan speed sensing. The pump will run like normal.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
The yellow cable is just for Fan speed sensing. The pump will run like normal.

Kk thx.

I noticed a 2-3Âºc decrease changing both h50 fans to exhaust instead of intaking, aswell as installing a small 80mm spare fan I had right on the H50 tubes giving air straight to the cpu block


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Kk thx.

I noticed a 2-3Âºc decrease changing both h50 fans to exhaust instead of intaking, aswell as installing a small 80mm spare fan I had right on the H50 tubes giving air straight to the cpu block









Thats good and it should help keep your motherboard cooler too.

I run my Rad in exhaust and I get fairly decent temps and it pulls all the warm air out of my case.


----------



## harrison

ok i geting a H50 set up in push pull. i have a coolermaster haf 932 case should it push in or out? i fold 24/7and my 2 gpu,s get smoken. on tha back out side of the case and i was thinking i would be pullen in heat. also do to my new 1000w power supply i will have to pull out my buttom 120mm case fan that blows up. what suould i do?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Thats good and it should help keep your motherboard cooler too.

I run my Rad in exhaust and I get fairly decent temps and it pulls all the warm air out of my case.


Do you think if I buy an Artic Cooling V thermal paste and replace the H50's stock one it will make any difference?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *harrison*


ok i geting a H50 set up in push pull. i have a coolermaster haf 932 case should it push in or out? i fold 24/7and my 2 gpu,s get smoken. on tha back out side of the case and i was thinking i would be pullen in heat. also do to my new 1000w power supply i will have to pull out my buttom 120mm case fan that blows up. what suould i do?


Try both exhausting and intaking.

Intaking I had better iddle temps, but exhausting I had better full temps, so I left it as exhausting.


----------



## rickyman0319

Hi. I installed H50 with resivoir. i dont knowi if this is normal. i test the cooler with resivuor on Prime 95 for 1 hrs. i closed the prime 95 and wait for a hrs. the idle temp is @ 30 degree and the load on Prime 95 is 50. does it seem normal or not?


----------



## whoisron

Hey guys I just recently purchased a corsair h50 i had previously owned a noctua nh-u12p se2, I chose the h50 because I like the all black pipe and overall it seemed smaller than 1 big cpu cooler block. I notice my h50 seems to be more noticeably louder than my noctua setup with 2 fans running at 1300rpm, I am currently using push/pull with two Gentle Typhoons running @ 1450rpm, on the box of the GT it says it runs at 21db and the noctua fans run at 19db. Is that 3 db increase that noticeable in noise? Also I was unsure of how static pressure works, is it harder to push air through a radiator than a cpu cooler? would that also account for the increase in noise? Do you get less CFM when pushing air through a radiator than through a cpu cooler, im new to these terms.


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *whoisron*


Hey guys I just recently purchased a corsair h50 i had previously owned a noctua nh-u12p se2, I chose the h50 because I like the all black pipe and overall it seemed smaller than 1 big cpu cooler block. I notice my h50 seems to be more noticeably louder than my noctua setup with 2 fans running at 1300rpm, I am currently using push/pull with two Gentle Typhoons running @ 1450rpm, on the box of the GT it says it runs at 21db and the noctua fans run at 19db. Is that 3 db increase that noticeable in noise? Also I was unsure of how static pressure works, is it harder to push air through a radiator than a cpu cooler? would that also account for the increase in noise? Do you get less CFM when pushing air through a radiator than through a cpu cooler, im new to these terms.


Try a fan controller, that what I use to keep the noise under check. Check out the *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink* for more ideas.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hadenman* 
For anyone interested, I finished a mod on my case today, and rearranged the fan configuration on my H50. Here is my post with pics and test results:

Thanks to Sethy666 for giving me some helpful responses earlier today.

It looks very kewl... your most welcome


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Kk thx.

I noticed a 2-3Âºc decrease changing both h50 fans to exhaust instead of intaking, aswell as installing a small 80mm spare fan I had right on the H50 tubes giving air straight to the cpu block









Who's da man?









What did the biggest difference? The fan on the CPU, or the rad fans exhausting instead of intaking>?


----------



## Mariusz803

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


Try a fan controller, that what I use to keep the noise under check. Check out the *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink* for more ideas.


Rep for that link, got me some ideas now.

Cheers.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Do you think if I buy an Artic Cooling V thermal paste and replace the H50's stock one it will make any difference?


Very possibly, some poeple have had fair drops with new thermal paste.

About your 5970, if you get a copy of furmark and run that, see what the load temps are, your load temps should be under 90'c.


----------



## tyfavre04

Woo got my h50 in and moded finally! The loops are a bit lengthy because I am going to be putting in a reservoir soon.

Tip my hat to mr-charles for all the help he gave me! He da man.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

I just finished modding mine too! I will post pics tonight.
EDIT: Dang it... for some reason it made me double post instead of edit...


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
I just finished modding mine too! I will post pics tonight.

EDIT: Early pics, will post some more once I reach 4.2ghz stable!


----------



## gus

[/URL][/IMG]

push pull exausting setup


----------



## squiggly

H-50 has the system running in my sig at 36-36-37-37 idle with default fan install.

After running OCCT for an hour it never went above 47* at auto voltage
setting (1.35). Started lowering the voltage a few hours ago and the idle temp is still the same, which was to be expected.

Load however is not breaking 43* at 1.23v


----------



## atakapa

Good job guys, welcome aboard. Fill in the system specs, which keeps it neat in your sig, here, http://www.overclock.net/specs.php?do=addsystem

Gus, you've got a lot going on in that case, zip ties are your friend.

Squiggly, nice temps.


----------



## whoisron

hey guys I just started OC'ing my i7 920 im running it at 3.8ghz I been running prime95 for about 10 minutes now and my core temps are 78 77 75 68 , do you think those are pretty good temperatures?

Also I just noticed I keep hearing this sound coming from my pc I think its coming from the h50 it sounds like water drop from a faucet i hear it like once every minute do any of you guys get that noise? I just only started noticing it after i OC'ed my computer.


----------



## gus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *atakapa*


Good job guys, welcome aboard. Fill in the system specs, which keeps it neat in your sig, here, http://www.overclock.net/specs.php?do=addsystem

Gus, you've got a lot going on in that case, zip ties are your friend.

Squiggly, nice temps.


i know i just got her fini , will cable tie later 2day


----------



## atakapa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *whoisron*


hey guys I just started OC'ing my i7 920 im running it at 3.8ghz I been running prime95 for about 10 minutes now and my core temps are 78 77 75 68 , do you think those are pretty good temperatures?


Those temps seem a bit on the high side, but within safe limits, but quite a large range on the cores. It really depends on the full setup and ambient temps, though. 1 or 2 fans and what type, push or pull or both, exhaust or intake.

Quote:



Also I just noticed I keep hearing this sound coming from my pc I think its coming from the h50 it sounds like water drop from a faucet i hear it like once every minute do any of you guys get that noise? I just only started noticing it after i OC'ed my computer.


About the drip noise, that's not really something you want to hear with a closed loop water cooling system. I'd check everywhere for leaks around the tubing and connections. If everything is dry, you may be hearing some trapped air moving around inside the rad, it usually clears up after some use.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

I'm now at 4.2ghz with an H50 at 85C LinX max. This is with AS5. Soon, I am getting some Gelid Extreme thermal paste so expect some drops!


----------



## sintricate

As I was saying a few pages back. I recently swapped out the 25mm Scythe fan (it came with my old Scythe cooler) I had been using as the push fan in my push/pull configuration along with the stock h50 fan. I swapped it for an UltraKaze3k and I think I may have only gotten 1C difference. I also relapped my CPU and this time I used IC Diamond TIM. I went through a lot to test this out and got nothing in return... boohoo.

Pics!

Corsair fan + Scythe 25mm:









Corsair fan + Scythe UltraKaze3k 38mm









Freshly lapped (re-lapped) Q9550:









How I mounted the radiator and fans:









I guess I'll be switching back soon because the UK3K isn't worth using for 1C improvement. I think I was hitting 60-61C under load which isn't bad but I thought I'd see a difference using such a powerful fan. While people think this thing is loud (and it is) it moves way more air than the fan it replaced. Both push fans have a 25mm "shroud" (empty fan).


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sintricate*


As I was saying a few pages back. I recently swapped out the 25mm Scythe fan (it came with my old Scythe cooler) I had been using as the push fan in my push/pull configuration along with the stock h50 fan. I swapped it for an UltraKaze3k and I think I may have only gotten 1C difference. I also relapped my CPU and this time I used IC Diamond TIM. I went through a lot to test this out and got nothing in return... boohoo.

*snip*

I guess I'll be switching back soon because the UK3K isn't worth using for 1C improvement. I think I was hitting 60-61C under load which isn't bad but I thought I'd see a difference using such a powerful fan. While people think this thing is loud (and it is) it moves way more air than the fan it replaced. Both push fans have a 25mm "shroud" (empty fan).


Try moving the shroud to the pull fan.


----------



## squiggly

Thanks for the link!

After switching OCCT to linpak







the load is 47-47-49-49v









Ordering push/pull fans NOW


----------



## sintricate

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Try moving the shroud to the pull fan.


I turned off the pull fan and got no change. It's probably not going to help. Thanks for the advice though.


----------



## atakapa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sintricate*


As I was saying a few pages back. I recently swapped out the 25mm Scythe fan (it came with my old Scythe cooler) I had been using as the push fan in my push/pull configuration along with the stock h50 fan. I swapped it for an UltraKaze3k and I think I may have only gotten 1C difference. I also relapped my CPU and this time I used IC Diamond TIM. I went through a lot to test this out and got nothing in return... boohoo.
...
I guess I'll be switching back soon because the UK3K isn't worth using for 1C improvement. I think I was hitting 60-61C under load which isn't bad but I thought I'd see a difference using such a powerful fan. While people think this thing is loud (and it is) it moves way more air than the fan it replaced. Both push fans have a 25mm "shroud" (empty fan).


Have you tried removing the pull fan, and seeing what the temps are with just the 38 mm push? Might be creating some back pressure that's not allowing the 38 to work effectively. Most report a more noticeable drop when going to a 38 mm from a 25.







/Just a thought/ Temps aren't too bad either way.

Edit, just saw your next post. That's weird, I would have expected a better drop than 1 C.

Nice cpu lap, btw.


----------



## GhostSenshi

Add me in there, why not =]
You can see mine in avatar

btw it just occured to me from viewing the pics of some rigs. Is it better for radiator flow for it to be loaded with the hoses coming in and out from the top or from bottom?


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sintricate*


I turned off the pull fan and got no change. It's probably not going to help. Thanks for the advice though.


The pull fan is not working efficiently when up against the rad (too much turbulence).


----------



## atakapa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GhostSenshi*


Add me in there, why not =]
You can see mine in avatar

btw it just occured to me from viewing the pics of some rigs. Is it better for radiator flow for it to be loaded with the hoses coming in and out from the top or from bottom?


You just add your name to the google spreadsheet list on the first page in the OP, now.

You'll get as many different opinions on the hose orientation as fan placement. Test for yourself, I don't think it makes much difference.

And welcome.


----------



## GhostSenshi

That's about what I figured. Thought I'd ask because well.. you never know right? haha
Thanks for the welcome.


----------



## nickbunyun

i bought it because i got a new case a Antec 902 .. and I had a TuniqTower120 on my Q9450 ... @ 3.2 temps were at around 47-53 idle... and would go max 65 on idle..
i installed the H50 im at 3.2ghz and temps are 49-52idle and max it went to 66
however i put it on stock at 2.66 and the temps were still around 48-52... is that normal ?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tyfavre04*


Woo got my h50 in and moded finally! The loops are a bit lengthy because I am going to be putting in a reservoir soon.

Tip my hat to mr-charles for all the help he gave me! He da man.


Kewl mod man, no pun intended.. well, yes it was







Nice work!

mr-charles is too modest and a great resource. I think he hides his wisdom under a bushell sometimes.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


EDIT: Early pics, will post some more once I reach 4.2ghz stable!


Looking good.... more pics please









I love mod eye candy!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbunyun*

I bought it because i got a new case a Antec 902 .. and I had a TuniqTower120 on my Q9450 ... @ 3.2 temps were at around 47-53 idle... and would go max 65 on idle..
*i installed the H50 im at 3.2ghz and temps are 49-52idle and max it went to 66
however i put it on stock at 2.66 and the temps were still around 48-52... is that normal *?


Ahhh, no, that doesnt seem right. Can you pls send a pic of your setup?

What is your room ambient?

Is the pump on right? What fan configuration are you using? Are your fan/s and pump set to 100%?

Thanks


----------



## squiggly




----------



## pcnuttie

Why are your temps are VERY HIGH? you overclocking or running stock?


----------



## nickbunyun

*Ahhh, no, that doesnt seem right. *
I know.. thats what I was saying too.. right now i reseated twice now.. with AS5 
now at 3.2ghz it idles at 45-51 (i have *two cores under 50 which is new*)

*Can you pls send a pic of your setup?*









*and yes I do close the door.. this was just after i finished reseating it for the 2nd time.*

*What is your room ambient?*
I don't know it.. umm house heater is set for 72degrees.. and its cold enough that i have to wear a tshirt and a shirt on top.. 
its def. not hot..

*Is the pump on right? *
On the right? what do you mean?

*What fan configuration are you using? Are your fan/s and pump set to 100%?*
Im not sure where to set them to 100%
Thanks

also:









is it weird that i was getting same temps with TuniqTower120 on a worse case @ 3.2ghz ?
if thats the case im gonna return this one.. i was hoping for IDLING at least all cores under 50

** edit ***
Okay i remount it again.. and i put it with the cables on the right side... it didnt do much difference...
i remount it again.. in normal positino i had it before.. i put the cpufan (using speedfanprogram) to 100% and my temps are 47 45 51 51... so still about the same... dropped like 2deg.

*** edit again ***

its been 10 min on Prime 95... max temp 69 65 69 69

kinda weird.. i was getting pretty much almost same results maybe 2deg difference on Tuniq Tower... if it is at this rate.. i may return it.. not worth the 79.99 IMO.....


----------



## squiggly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Why are your temps are VERY HIGH? you overclocking or running stock?


I accidently closed OCCT when I captured the screen... so, yes, ovcing and testing how low the voltage will go at 3.0


----------



## sintricate

This isn't looking so good for my H50 lol. I just installed my old Scythe Kama Angle and paired it with my Ultrakaze3k and it seems to be doing better. This heatsink was like $30. Seems to be about 4C cooler. I will run more tests tomorrow and see how it stacks up. My room is really hot tonight for some reason. Sad thing is, in order to use the UK3K I had to put my ram side by side...

Pic of cooler:


----------



## whoisron

hrm after i turned off hyperthreading and some other features my core temps are a lot lower and avg temperature on each core is closer to each other and not so spread apart.

is this pretty normal temperatures? im running push / pull with two gentle typhoons 1450's running prime95 with hypherthreading off










overclocked it to 3.8ghz
is it usually more beneficial to keep HT off?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbunyun*


*Ahhh, no, that doesnt seem right. *
I know.. thats what I was saying too.. right now i reseated twice now.. with AS5 
now at 3.2ghz it idles at 45-51 (i have *two cores under 50 which is new*)

*Can you pls send a pic of your setup?*

*and yes I do close the door.. this was just after i finished reseating it for the 2nd time.*

*What is your room ambient?*
I don't know it.. umm house heater is set for 72degrees.. and its cold enough that i have to wear a tshirt and a shirt on top.. 
its def. not hot..

*Is the pump on right? *
On the right? what do you mean?

*What fan configuration are you using? Are your fan/s and pump set to 100%?*
Im not sure where to set them to 100%
Thanks

is it weird that i was getting same temps with TuniqTower120 on a worse case @ 3.2ghz ?
if thats the case im gonna return this one.. i was hoping for IDLING at least all cores under 50

** edit ***
Okay i remount it again.. and i put it with the cables on the right side... it didnt do much difference...
i remount it again.. in normal positino i had it before.. i put the cpufan (using speedfanprogram) to 100% and my temps are 47 45 51 51... so still about the same... dropped like 2deg.

*** edit again ***

its been 10 min on Prime 95... max temp 69 65 69 69

kinda weird.. i was getting pretty much almost same results maybe 2deg difference on Tuniq Tower... if it is at this rate.. i may return it.. not worth the 79.99 IMO.....


Okay. I suspect the proximity of your graphics card may have something to do with it when the case is closed. 68c is hot.

I further suspect you have it set to intake, that is, your fan is sucking in air to your rad... is that correct?

*Option:* Move your rad to a fan port that isnt near a heat source, eg your rear exhaust port.

If you have reseated, then the pump is probably on correctly.

My other concern is your fan speed as indicted by your FANINO - I again suspect thats your pump, yes?.

Make sure it has 100% power. Either plug it directly into the PSU via a molex or make sure the header you have it plugged into is 12v and set to 100%.

In short... move your rad and make sure your pump is at 100% power - it should be running at @ 1400 + rpm and see how that goes


----------



## Sethy666

Since Autumn has arrived here (Fall, to our American friends), Ive decided to move my rad and fans to an intake configuration. *PCSarge* would be sooo proud









So, on with the show.

*Setting up the bundle: Scythe Kaze 2000/Shroud/Rad/Shroud/Scythe Kaze 2000*









*Placement into the 5.25 bay: yeah, I cleaned the dust off that filter







Gotta love zip ties...*









*Mobo looking clean and airy: I used Shin Etsu X23 TIM*









*All done and cool as ice... well nearly







*









*Run a Linpack to see how we are travelling... happy camper







*









At room ambient 24c, thats a good 2c-4c difference in temps from my previous exhaust configuration.

Even better news, when I fold, my CPU temps stay down because the heat generated from my GPU isnt getting sucked through the rad









I love this cooler... one config for summer and other for winter... try doing that with air cooling


----------



## kcuestag

Nice work there Sethy666,

It also came to my mind putting the rad in the front of my HAF 932 as I think my high temps may be due to my HD5970's heat going into the RAD.

With those green plastics ( Sorry don't know name in english







), does it hold fine and what about vibration, any loud noise?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Nice work there Sethy666,

It also came to my mind putting the rad in the front of my HAF 932 as I think my high temps may be due to my HD5970's heat going into the RAD.

With those green plastics ( Sorry don't know name in english







), does it hold fine and what about vibration, any loud noise?

Your english is fine.

Zip-ties - a modders best friend









No excessive noise or vibration. You'll note I have also placed foam rubber on the base to absorb any vibration.

With my AC GTX Pro GPU cooler, my GPU no longer exhaust out the back... most of it goes into the case, even with my lil fan mod (see pic). Its the first time Ive seen sub 30c temps on my CPU... Im thrilled with this 1 hour job.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Your english is fine.

Zip-ties - a modders best friend









No excessive noise or vibration. You'll note I have also placed foam rubber on the base to absorb any vibration.

With my AC GTX Pro GPU cooler, my GPU no longer exhaust out the back... most of it goes into the case, even with my lil fan mod (see pic). Its the first time Ive seen sub 30c temps on my CPU... Im thrilled with this 1 hour job.

Oh Zip-ties









I need to buy some of those, I ran short yesterday using them for a fan on the DVD bays and another in the CPU Block to cool it a bit more.

Do you think moving the rad to the front of the case will lower temps considerably? My temps right now are 38ÂºC iddle and like 50ÂºC full :/ I expected it a bit cooler, and it might be due to my HD5970's heat exhausting off the case and going up into the radiator , not sure.


----------



## Chicken Patty

thats sick looking sethy,


----------



## JMT668

cant wait to get my H50 as soon as I get paid for my ebay stuff!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Oh Zip-ties









I need to buy some of those, I ran short yesterday using them for a fan on the DVD bays and another in the CPU Block to cool it a bit more.

Do you think moving the rad to the front of the case will lower temps considerably? My temps right now are 38ÂºC iddle and like 50ÂºC full :/ I expected it a bit cooler, and it might be due to my HD5970's heat exhausting off the case and going up into the radiator , not sure.

Hey, it cant hurt, give it a whirl and see if it helps. GPUs are probably the main culprit of H50 temp problems (over-dramatic generalisation)








Did you post a pic of your setup in previous post? This thread moves so quickly, stuff gets missed.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
thats sick looking sethy,









Thanks. Thats a good thing... right?









Quote:


Originally Posted by *JMT668*
cant wait to get my H50 as soon as I get paid for my ebay stuff!

Welcome in advance.

Hurry up man, your missing all the fun









Addit: Just OC @ 4.05Ghz.... nice







Linpack enclosed... Now I can start CPU folding with some grunt


----------



## looser101

Looking good Seth.

+rep


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Looking good Seth.

+rep

Thanks bro


----------



## Killhouse

Great job Sethy, I'm looking forward to seeing trees sucked into the front of your computer


----------



## nickbunyun

*Okay. I suspect the proximity of your graphics card may have something to do with it when the case is closed. 68c is hot.
*
I usually manually set the fan to 60% and it goes down to high 40's

*I further suspect you have it set to intake, that is, your fan is sucking in air to your rad... is that correct?*
Yes my rad fan is set to intake

*Option: Move your rad to a fan port that isnt near a heat source, eg your rear exhaust port.*
If i open the sidepanel and have it open for a few hours.. with rad not being close to anything.. same results..









*If you have reseated, then the pump is probably on correctly.*
yes i've reseated it like 5 times.. the best combo was 47 45 51 51 deg idling ~ 2-3% cpu usage.

*My other concern is your fan speed as indicted by your FANINO - I again suspect thats your pump, yes?.*
FANIN0 is my CPU FAN.. I used SpeedFan (the program) to make it at 100% but the difference is very minimal.. nothing special like my GPU. my GPU runs at 61-65 deg at 37%.. i put the fan at 60% when i started writing this post and its already at 45deg. so 23% for my GPU = 16deg difference

*Make sure it has 100% power. Either plug it directly into the PSU via a molex or make sure the header you have it plugged into is 12v and set to 100%.*
you mean the 3pin thing that i plugged in ?

*In short... move your rad and make sure your pump is at 100% power - it should be running at @ 1400 + rpm and see how that goes








*
with open sidepanel and fan running at 100% @ 1700rpm you can see the picture.. also all case fans are on max









Hmm...
With all fan-cases on max speed.. i see noticeably 6deg in motherboard. 6deg in CPU overall (not cpu cores) 3deg in GPU... but only like 1deg overall in CPU Cores..


----------



## whoisron

hey guys im really new to overclocking and im not sure what i need to change in my settings can i get some advice? i was testing and trying to find a good overclock speed, i turned off all the extra settings in bios hyphertreading, turbo, spectrum, and all the other settings the told me to turn off in the i7 OC'ing tutorial. I OC'ed my computer to 4ghz and left prime95 on before I went to bed when I came back 1 of the workers stopped working on prime95 and then after 5 minutes my computer froze and i got a yellowish / black screen. I don't really know what I need to change in my settings it seems like my core temps weren't really that high but my system seems unstable, whats causing this? Thanks guys heres a pic.


----------



## chatch15117

My MUGEN-2 would have been in the mid 80s with this overclock. 196BCLK * 21, 1.375vcore, 1.335vtt/qpi, 1.88v cpu pll










Not that impressed. I was expecting low 70s. But, I got the h50 and two fans for free so I can't complain. It looks nice too. This 2000rpm fan is at 1890rpm... I am disappoint.


----------



## PCSarge

the H50 is NOT a custom WC loop, it has a limit depending on airflow,case, location in the case, and intake/exhaust single fan/push-pull config not everyone will have the same results, even if you have identical systems


----------



## whoisron

does anyone know why when I put my blck to like 191 with multiplier to 21x it reads that its 4ghz on bios and on cpu-z and real temp but when i check my computer > properties it says its only 3.8ghz?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *whoisron*


does anyone know why when I put my blck to like 191 with multiplier to 21x it reads that its 4ghz on bios and on cpu-z and real temp but when i check my computer > properties it says its only 3.8ghz?


because windows reads the speed wrong, it will probably correct itself eventually


----------



## chatch15117

Quote:



Originally Posted by *whoisron*


does anyone know why when I put my blck to like 191 with multiplier to 21x it reads that its 4ghz on bios and on cpu-z and real temp but when i check my computer > properties it says its only 3.8ghz?


It's because Windows doesn't count the "turbo boost" multiplier. It reads the speed as 191 * 20, or 3.8GHz. Mine says 3.92GHz because I'm at 4.1GHz with turbo boost(21x multiplier * 196).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


because windows reads the speed wrong, it will probably correct itself eventually


NO


----------



## DefecTalisman

I am now the proud owner of a H50 cooled system. Photos here -> http://cmss.dev.x10hosting.com/thumbnails.php?album=2

I have R4's in a push/pull config. all sitting in the 5.25"drive bays


----------



## whoisron

do i mainly just adjust core voltage and bclk when i get errors? if a worker dies while im in prime95 doing stress test is that usually from insufficient core voltage? do i raise it by .25?

also when do i raise qpi voltage what kind of signs do i look for?


----------



## Magus2727

So I am thinking of be a member of this cool club and had a few questions before I am going to order the cooler.

Would off the shelf 120mm fan shrouds fit the radiator on the H50?

I have holes in my case (Thermaltake Armor) for water lines, is the H50 a 100% closed system or can the lines be removed so they can be routed through these holes?

How much power does the system pull?

Thanks for any help and sorry if these are addressed in the thread, 282 pages is a little much to get through...


----------



## ExperimentX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
So I am thinking of be a member of this cool club and had a few questions before I am going to order the cooler.

Would off the shelf 120mm fan shrouds fit the radiator on the H50?

I have holes in my case (Thermaltake Armor) for water lines, is the H50 a 100% closed system or can the lines be removed so they can be routed through these holes?

How much power does the system pull?

Thanks for any help and sorry if these are addressed in the thread, 282 pages is a little much to get through...

It is 100% closed system so the water-cooling holes won't do you any good.

The 120mm shrouds should fit just fine.


----------



## squiggly

Newest run... are the max temps correct?!? 1.08v under load and that is all they rise??? Also lowered mem to 800-4-4-4-12 1.8v 1:1


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Thanks. Thats a good thing... right?








:


Yes it is









Quote:



Originally Posted by *whoisron*


hey guys im really new to overclocking and im not sure what i need to change in my settings can i get some advice? i was testing and trying to find a good overclock speed, i turned off all the extra settings in bios hyphertreading, turbo, spectrum, and all the other settings the told me to turn off in the i7 OC'ing tutorial. I OC'ed my computer to 4ghz and left prime95 on before I went to bed when I came back 1 of the workers stopped working on prime95 and then after 5 minutes my computer froze and i got a yellowish / black screen. I don't really know what I need to change in my settings it seems like my core temps weren't really that high but my system seems unstable, whats causing this? Thanks guys heres a pic.











Is it me or you are running your RAM voltage at 1.32? A picture of your settings in your BIOS would be better dude.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


the H50 is NOT a custom WC loop, it has a limit depending on airflow,case, location in the case, and intake/exhaust single fan/push-pull config not everyone will have the same results, even if you have identical systems


AMEN to that!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbunyun*


*Okay. I suspect the proximity of your graphics card may have something to do with it when the case is closed. 68c is hot.
*
I usually manually set the fan to 60% and it goes down to high 40's

*I further suspect you have it set to intake, that is, your fan is sucking in air to your rad... is that correct?*
Yes my rad fan is set to intake

*Option: Move your rad to a fan port that isnt near a heat source, eg your rear exhaust port. *
If i open the sidepanel and have it open for a few hours.. with rad not being close to anything.. same results..









*If you have reseated, then the pump is probably on correctly. *
yes i've reseated it like 5 times.. the best combo was 47 45 51 51 deg idling ~ 2-3% cpu usage.

*My other concern is your fan speed as indicted by your FANINO - I again suspect thats your pump, yes?.*
FANIN0 is my CPU FAN.. I used SpeedFan (the program) to make it at 100% but the difference is very minimal.. nothing special like my GPU. my GPU runs at 61-65 deg at 37%.. i put the fan at 60% when i started writing this post and its already at 45deg. so 23% for my GPU = 16deg difference

*Make sure it has 100% power. Either plug it directly into the PSU via a molex or make sure the header you have it plugged into is 12v and set to 100%.*
you mean the 3pin thing that i plugged in ?

*In short... move your rad and make sure your pump is at 100% power - it should be running at @ 1400 + rpm and see how that goes








*
with open sidepanel and fan running at 100% @ 1700rpm you can see the picture.. also all case fans are on max

Hmm...
With all fan-cases on max speed.. i see noticeably 6deg in motherboard. 6deg in CPU overall (not cpu cores) 3deg in GPU... but only like 1deg overall in CPU Cores..


*Make sure it has 100% power. Either plug it directly into the PSU via a molex or make sure the header you have it plugged into is 12v and set to 100%.*
you mean the 3pin thing that i plugged in ?

Yes, make sure your pump is set to 100%

Everything else looks okay. By the sounds of it, the rads proximity to your GPU isnt an issue.

Maybe a stronger fan with a high CFM for your rad may help too...

I cant think of anything else that may help. Perhaps someone with a similar CPU can jump in and suggest something.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *squiggly*

Newest run... are the max temps correct?!? 1.08v under load and that is all they rise??? Also lowered mem to 800-4-4-4-12 1.8v 1:1


Something looks amiss...

In CPU-Z your core speed is rated at 2399.8 Mhz with a multipler of 6, yet in OCCT & CoreTemp its reported at 2999.8 Mhz with a multipler of 7.5. Am I reading that right?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*

Great job Sethy, I'm looking forward to seeing trees sucked into the front of your computer


Im thinking of renaming my PC *"Event Horizion" * because its now sucking in light


----------



## WarlordOne

I just wanted to share a pic of my Asetek LCLC (not quite an H50). I thought you guys might appreciate it.


----------



## KoukiFC3S

Stock i7 860 with 5 passes of IntelBurn Test. HT is on.

Are those ok temps?


----------



## Jras

I figured here would be the best place to ask this question. I tried searching but couldnt find an answer.

I run a computer store in my country and am thinking about getting a few of these for re-sale, it gets real hot here







. but i need to know what liquid is inside the closed loop? Is it just water, or are there other chemicals involved?

EDIT: Found the answer on a corsair forum.

Q: What's the liquid inside the unit?
A: The liquid inside the H50 is distilled water with Propylene Glycol added to prevent corrosion and organic build-up.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WarlordOne* 
I just wanted to share a pic of my Asetek LCLC (not quite an H50). I thought you guys might appreciate it.









Nice setup bro... thanks for sharing









Quote:


Originally Posted by *KoukiFC3S* 
Stock i7 860 with 5 passes of IntelBurn Test. HT is on.

Are those ok temps?

They look okay to me. Someone with an i7 may be able to offer further insight.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jras* 
I figured here would be the best place to ask this question. I tried searching but couldnt find an answer.

I run a computer store in my country and am thinking about getting a few of these for re-sale, it gets real hot here







. but i need to know what liquid is inside the closed loop? Is it just water, or are there other chemicals involved?

EDIT: Found the answer on a corsair forum.

Q: What's the liquid inside the unit?
A: The liquid inside the H50 is distilled water with Propylene Glycol added to prevent corrosion and organic build-up.

Yep thats the one. On a side note. The H50 is very relent on good case cooling and ambient temps. We have seen temps jumping around in Summer and Winter... but then again, air cooling has the same constraints


----------



## squiggly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Something looks amiss...

In CPU-Z your core speed is rated at 2399.8 Mhz with a multipler of 6, yet in OCCT & CoreTemp its reported at 2999.8 Mhz with a multipler of 7.5. Am I reading that right?


Never turned off the throttling in the bios. So the CPUID reads want it is then and not what it was under load.


----------



## styckx

Saw this thread, hardly ever post but I bit the bullet on this today and decided to join the club







Very impressed. Beats fighting with air.



















Under load during a Intel Burn Test @ Maximum


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *squiggly* 
Never turned off the throttling in the bios. So the CPUID reads want it is then and not what it was under load.

Oh, okay... the temps are still a tad suss. They appear not to have moved much









Unless, it is correct... can you pls post your Linpark results from OCCT. thanks

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Styckx*
Saw this thread, hardly ever post but I bit the bullet on this today and decided to join the club Very impressed. Beats fighting with air.

Welcome and enjoy the house of fun


----------



## PCSarge

well i got bored, so heres a random pic of the front of my H50 with the R4 running full tilt, and my 2 screen setup, though blurred out xD


----------



## Chicken Patty

nice setup


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
nice setup









AHHH! chicken is lurking around waiting to reply! AHHH!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
AHHH! chicken is lurking around waiting to reply! AHHH!

You havent been drinking AGAIN, have you?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
You havent been drinking AGAIN, have you?









obviously i have, why would i post random pictures otherwise?


----------



## styckx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Welcome and enjoy the house of fun









Thanks. The H50 got me posting. I've seen my share of "Too good to be true" consumer level gimmicks out there, and the H50 looked like it was going to just be another one of those gimmicks. After reading enough random reviews over the months I decided to gamble. I was pretty blown away just how well it worked. Tossing my giant anvil hs/fan combo in the old "pile of parts" box. I haven't been this impressed with a PC cooling accessory in a long time. (that is in my price range)


----------



## squiggly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Oh, okay... the temps are still a tad suss. They appear not to have moved much









Unless, it is correct... can you pls post your Linpark results from OCCT. thanks


Ok...here they are!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


obviously i have, why would i post random pictures otherwise?


Damn, its shame we have this international dateline thing happening, otherwise Id be joining you for a tipple... Im just jealous









Quote:



Originally Posted by *styckx*


Thanks. The H50 got me posting. I've seen my share of "Too good to be true" consumer level gimmicks out there, and the H50 looked like it was going to just be another one of those gimmicks. After reading enough random reviews over the months I decided to gamble. I was pretty blown away just how well it worked. Tossing my giant anvil hs/fan combo in the old "pile of parts" box. I haven't been this impressed with a PC cooling accessory in a long time. (that is in my price range)


Agreed! As you can see from the above post, we have alot of fun here too









Quote:



Originally Posted by *squiggly*

Ok...here they are!


Thats even more insane when you see it graphed. Before I proclaim a miracle, I let some other forum members have a look.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Thats even more insane when you see it graphed. Before I proclaim a miracle, I let some other forum members have a look.










What's your ambients? Is your case open? The only time I've ever got Linpack temps like that, is when my case was wide open, and my windows wide open!


----------



## dude120

So in the next few days, I'm going to try an experiment with my h50, not physically modding it, but a different sort of shroud, in a attempt to get better temps. Will post pics and how it goes shortly after (probably Wednesday or Thursday) Also, I've seen a lot of tutorials on people lapping their cpu's and or their coolers. I'm thinking of lapping my i7. I realize this voids the warranty, but it looks like it ends up being extremely helpful and I don't plan or returning it any time soon. (next goal for my comp is to get a i7 970, hexacore FTW!) 
Any thoughts on lapping, and should the cpu block on the h50 be lapped too, or is it already relatively flat?


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *squiggly*


Ok...here they are!



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Thats even more insane when you see it graphed. Before I proclaim a miracle, I let some other forum members have a look.










Looks like broken core temp sensors to me. There is a low temp below which it will not go (one of my cores is like that too). Also unresponsive to temp increases (my broken core only reads high temp properly in linpack, not in prime95). Strange that it's all 4 cores though, what are the chances of that. My broken core barely budges from 37*.


----------



## squiggly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


What's your ambients? Is your case open? The only time I've ever got Linpack temps like that, is when my case was wide open, and my windows wide open!


Ambient is 70* and case side is off.


----------



## squiggly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Thats even more insane when you see it graphed. Before I proclaim a miracle, I let some other forum members have a look.










Amiracle would be getting a 75% OVC out of this pup


----------



## squiggly

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Looks like broken core temp sensors to me. There is a low temp below which it will not go (one of my cores is like that too). Also unresponsive to temp increases (my broken core only reads high temp properly in linpack, not in prime95). Strange that it's all 4 cores though, what are the chances of that. My broken core barely budges from 37*.

They all work as far as I know... 36-36-37-37 is idle and have gone as high as 50* with more voltage.

Doing another run with the absolute lowest voltage that won`t blue screen and seeing temps at 40*

My previous posts showed temp at 46+ for all cores last night.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
AHHH! chicken is lurking around waiting to reply! AHHH!

I'm always watching


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *squiggly* 
They all work as far as I know... 36-36-37-37 is idle and have gone as high as 50* with more voltage.

Doing another run with the absolute lowest voltage that won`t blue screen and seeing temps at 40*

My previous posts showed temp at 46+ for all cores last night.

It's only my opinion obviously. The reason I think it's the case is that there is alot of flat lining of temperatures. This is never the case under load. A little research or a new thread might help to figure out what's going on.


----------



## whoisron

can anyone give me a comparison with how loud the OEM corsair h50 stock fan is compared to a GT 1850 i think i read that the GT is like 1db higher? are they about audiably the same? is the GT considered more quiet to the human ear because supposely the pitch is more higher? I heard that static pressure can make for fans to be louder than the stated DB rating on the the box.


----------



## squiggly

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
It's only my opinion obviously. The reason I think it's the case is that there is alot of flat lining of temperatures. This is never the case under load. A little research or a new thread might help to figure out what's going on.

No problem! Only here to have fun and learn









The last run errored out after 29 minutes but here is the screen shots to show the temp going to 40ish... also flashed to a modded 401 bios to see it had better vreg. Bios v is 1.0875. Turned off Throttling too.


----------



## styckx

What is the life expectancy of these pumps in the H50? I know it's still under a year old product. Just figured from experience of other pumps etc there might be a round about figure.


----------



## squiggly

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
It's only my opinion obviously. The reason I think it's the case is that there is alot of flat lining of temperatures. This is never the case under load. A little research or a new thread might help to figure out what's going on.

Looking at the new graphs I see what you are saying...maybe speed step ect cause the flatlining.


----------



## shizdan

What programs are you all using to test temps?


----------



## squiggly

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shizdan* 
What programs are you all using to test temps?

Hardware monitor, Core Temp


----------



## shizdan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *squiggly* 
Hardware monitor, Core Temp

I mean to push or benchmark your cpu?


----------



## squiggly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shizdan*


I mean to push or benchmark your cpu?



http://www.ocbase.com/perestroika_en/ OCCT


----------



## iGuitarGuy

linx.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *squiggly*


http://www.ocbase.com/perestroika_en/ OCCT


x2

I really like to be able to look at the graphs to try to figure out what's going on. Realtemp to check for max temp reached. Realtemp seems to sample the temps more often and will catch more of the temp spikes.


----------



## shizdan

OHHH thats why everyones load temps are so low! When I use Prime95 My load is 60C. When I use Intel Burn Test its like 75C.


----------



## Chunderface

Sweet my H50 just arrived in the mail, can't install it until i get my 690 ii advanced though =[. The tubes are smaller in real life and I thought it was funny how it was packaged with a big "STOP!" sign that you see as soon as you open it haha.


----------



## clee413

After a few nights following the initial installation of the H50, tonight I tinkered around with management and exhausting.

I picked up a second 120mm case fan, matching exactly the same model as the fan that comes boxed along with the H50. I was a bit concerned about using different fans in case of different speed/strength.

Also, I did want to mention, the screw size used to mount the radiator is 60-32 (width) 1.25" (length) in case people wanted to know.

I tweaked the positioning of the pump very slightly to optimize the stress on the tubes. I'm a bit of an obsessive compulsive, if you couldn't tell, so I tend to review my work for days until I get it just perfect (in my eyes).

Thanks guys for all the help, I hope to be able to contribute to future discussions.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *squiggly*


Amiracle would be getting a 75% OVC out of this pup










squig, i'm running a 43% OC on my E7400 (from 2.8 ghz stock up to 4GHZ) so its probably possible to push about 50% as my temps sit pretty low (soo low the temp sensors r busted and dont drop below 41







)


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *whoisron*


can anyone give me a comparison with how loud the OEM corsair h50 stock fan is compared to a GT 1850 i think i read that the GT is like 1db higher? are they about audiably the same? is the GT considered more quiet to the human ear because supposely the pitch is more higher? I heard that static pressure can make for fans to be louder than the stated DB rating on the the box.


*Gentle Typhoon AP-15* RPM-1850 CFM-58 dbA-28

*Corsair Stock *RPM-1700 CFM-50 dbA-29.75

_Generally_ the noise is producted from turbulance eg air hitting a rad or fan grill

Quote:



Originally Posted by *styckx*


What is the life expectancy of these pumps in the H50? I know it's still under a year old product. Just figured from experience of other pumps etc there might be a round about figure.


No reported failures here (that Im aware of), apart from people swapping their rads for larger ones... even then, the pump came back to life. Its a pretty hardy beast.

There is a 2 yr warranty on the kit... and as you say, the kits only been out for a year... not enough history yet.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Clee413*

After a few nights following the initial installation of the H50, tonight I tinkered around with management and exhausting.


Nice work bro... how are your temps after all that hard work?


----------



## clee413

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Nice work bro... how are your temps after all that hard work?


Thanks!

Its been sitting at a steady 33C idle (via SpeedFan 4.40). I've been reading that the biggest noticeable differences will be seen at higher CPU loads.


----------



## DefecTalisman

Can anyone tell me if its better to mount the rad with the pipes on the top or on the bottom ?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DefecTalisman* 
Can anyone tell me if its better to mount the rad with the pipes on the top or on the bottom ?

Same question, I have the tubes/pipes on top and im not sure if having them on bottom will change anything?

Thanks.


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DefecTalisman* 
Can anyone tell me if its better to mount the rad with the pipes on the top or on the bottom ?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Same question, I have the tubes/pipes on top and im not sure if having them on bottom will change anything?

Thanks.

It doesn't matter and same goes with the heatsink direction









Edit: I'm quoting Yellowbeard from a few months ago on the corsair forums.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84* 
It doesn't matter









Thanks for the info


----------



## DefecTalisman

So then I guess now to look at overclocking my rig


----------



## Prugor

My H50 + cheap rafter to mount it + fans + scythe bezel should be here today/tomorrow. so when I get home from work, oh, the cutting and installing can start.


----------



## sintricate

What are you guys using to stress your CPU when checking temps with the H50?


----------



## Willhemmens

LinX, Prime95, Intel burn test, OCCT, Everest ultimate, AMD Overdrive (AMD only) and Orthos (Dual cores only).

There's loads.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sintricate* 
What are you guys using to stress your CPU when checking temps with the H50?

WEll you can use Prime95 or IntelBurnTest, both stress the cpu WAY above normal use, its just for use tech-heads to inhumanly enslave our hardware to do our evil bidding!

not many programmes will ever use all 4 cores at 100%

I use HwMonitor to look at temps too, you can use core temp too, but ist a few degrees off... i think.

We've had this before, it doesn't matter which way round your pipes/rad/block is, as long as its getting air and the block touches the cpu.

For me at the top works well


----------



## sintricate

I was only asking because people like to compare temps and it's kinda stupid for someone to use prime and compare his temps to someone who's using IBT.
I always wonder what some people are using when they come in here with super low temps. I've been using Intel Burn Test myself.

I switched out my H50 for my old Scythe cooler and it's actually doing a lot better. I'm thinking about keeping it on there but man is it loud. (I'm using an Ultrakaze3k on there)


----------



## PCSarge

as simon and garfunkle once wrote in a song " these are the sounds of silence" i believe that applies to the H50 very well







for my old silent 775D thermaltake cooler was loud even... it used to piss me off lol it was rated 22DBA full speed yet ended up being like 35DBA with an annoying moaning noise at full speed


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sintricate* 
I was only asking because people like to compare temps and it's kinda stupid for someone to use prime and compare his temps to someone who's using IBT.
I always wonder what some people are using when they come in here with super low temps. I've been using Intel Burn Test myself.

I switched out my H50 for my old Scythe cooler and it's actually doing a lot better. I'm thinking about keeping it on there but man is it loud. (I'm using an Ultrakaze3k on there)

that and the fact that when the summer comes, air coolers tend to be useless


----------



## Magus2727

wonder what your Flow rates are on the two... if they push the same air I wonder if the temps would be closser


----------



## shizdan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sintricate* 
I was only asking because people like to compare temps and it's kinda stupid for someone to use prime and compare his temps to someone who's using IBT.
I always wonder what some people are using when they come in here with super low temps. I've been using Intel Burn Test myself.

I switched out my H50 for my old Scythe cooler and it's actually doing a lot better. I'm thinking about keeping it on there but man is it loud. (I'm using an Ultrakaze3k on there)

I know! To test temps everyone should either use IBT or Prime95. Theres like a 20c degree difference in both programs!


----------



## sintricate

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


that and the fact that when the summer comes, air coolers tend to be useless










Not in my room lol. The AC keeps my room cold as ice.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sintricate*


Not in my room lol. The AC keeps my room cold as ice.










my basement is like 20 below in the summertime, so my pc is safe


----------



## clee413

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sintricate*


Not in my room lol. The AC keeps my room cold as ice.










Usually I put one of these next to the case










But after the money I've invested over the winter, maybe I'll pony up & replace it with one of these..










I live in Las Vegas, NV & our summers are HOT. From May ~ July it'll usually average about mid 90's, & from August ~ Sept. usually averages triple digits.


----------



## SonyDSLR

Temp in Canada .........1.55V 955 Phenom II

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2686/...7df5394a_o.jpg


----------



## styckx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *clee413* 
Usually I put one of these next to the case










But after the money I've invested over the winter, maybe I'll pony up & replace it with one of these..










I live in Las Vegas, NV & our summers are HOT. From May ~ July it'll usually average about mid 90's, & from August ~ Sept. usually averages triple digits.

Does she come with the AC? If so I probably would never use my computer again.


----------



## PCSarge

lol dammit the boys found my soft spot...i'm bi...and she doesnt look too bad xD rather cute actually though she was smart, her hair is covering what men stare at xD


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
lol dammit the boys found my soft spot...i'm bi...and she doesnt look too bad xD rather cute actually though *she was smart, her hair is covering what men stare at xD*

Indeed lol


----------



## styckx

Ok, after a night sleeping on my new H50 install. I'm definitely questioning the efficiency of my airflow more than I have in the past dealing with air cooling.

The big thing throwing me off is the rear exhaust that is now the radiator with 2x 120mm in push/pull. Obviously the flow of air is less than having just a straight exhaust out the back.

Here is a diagram of my airflow as of now. Typical Nine Hundred Two case, but for those who aren't familiar with it I did the diagram to make it as simple as possible.










Whata think? Keep it in the current configuration? My main concern is the 200mm fan alone isn't enough alone to exhaust the heat out of the PC.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *styckx*


Ok, after a night sleeping on my new H50 install. I'm definitely questioning the efficiency of my airflow more than I have in the past dealing with air cooling.

The big thing throwing me off is the rear exhaust that is now the radiator with 2x 120mm in push/pull. Obviously the flow of air is less than having just a straight exhaust out the back.

Here is a diagram of my airflow as of now. Typical Nine Hundred Two case, but for those who aren't familiar with it I did the diagram to make it as simple as possible.










Whata think? Keep it in the current configuration? My main concern is the 200mm fan alone isn't enough alone to exhaust the heat out of the PC.


Hey mate looking good, i'd have the h-50 pull cold air from the back into the case and out the top, but the side fan is a good idea too..

Kinda like this



and by the way, having the 12vatx cable running over your mobo and between your gpu isn't the best idea, try running it behind the mobo or orund the side!!


----------



## styckx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


and by the way, having the 12vatx cable running over your mobo and between your gpu isn't the best idea, try running it behind the mobo or orund the side!!


Yeah I know. As you can see most all the other cables are ran behind the mobo on the other side of the case and back out where they need to be. That 12vatx cable just isn't long enough to where it needs to go. About an inch more and I probably could have pulled it off. It was driving my OCD nuts just seeing it strewn across the top over the cards.


----------



## WarlordOne

Quote:



Originally Posted by *styckx*


The big thing throwing me off is the rear exhaust that is now the radiator with 2x 120mm in push/pull. Obviously the flow of air is less than having just a straight exhaust out the back.

Here is a diagram of my airflow as of now. Typical Nine Hundred Two case, but for those who aren't familiar with it I did the diagram to make it as simple as possible.

Whata think? Keep it in the current configuration? My main concern is the 200mm fan alone isn't enough alone to exhaust the heat out of the PC.


I have mine set up as a front intake, just to keep the front fan airflow uniform. It only takes minor modification of the stock Antec fan mount to use it with a radiator. Similar to what has been posted with the bay rafter modification.

But either rear or front intake would be acceptable...


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *styckx*


Yeah I know. As you can see most all the other cables are ran behind the mobo on the other side of the case and back out where they need to be. That 12vatx cable just isn't long enough to where it needs to go. About an inch more and I probably could have pulled it off. It was driving my OCD nuts just seeing it strewn across the top over the cards.


Indeed, thats the kinda thing that would drive me up the wall too, is the 900 case a full-tower or mid? I'm thinking i need a full tower to maximize the airflow, but i'm good for a few weeks.

So yeah, try the H-50 set up as an intake and leave everything else, maybe one of the front fans as an exhaust, i'm sure you've prob tried the majority of solutions? and short of running the cable physically under the mobo (between the mobo and riser plate) there's always an extension chord? where you'd source one is beyond me but i'm more than sure there is such a thing..

But looking good man, keep it up


----------



## styckx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WarlordOne*


I have mine set up as a front intake, just to keep the front fan airflow uniform. It only takes minor modification of the stock Antec fan mount to use it with a radiator. Similar to what has been posted with the bay rafter modification.

But either rear or front intake would be acceptable...


Having the radiator up front would have been nice, but there is that giant 5870 sticking its butt where optional 3rd front intake fan mount is placed.









I switched my radiator push/pull to intake instead, I'll go the day and monitor how that works out.

So hard sometimes to monitor temps. This morning I was idling at 33c (i5 @ 3.5) now in the afternoon as the radiant air temp has risen (nice day out!!) I'm up at 37c idle.


----------



## styckx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


Indeed, thats the kinda thing that would drive me up the wall too, is the 900 case a full-tower or mid? I'm thinking i need a full tower to maximize the airflow, but i'm good for a few weeks.

So yeah, try the H-50 set up as an intake and leave everything else, maybe one of the front fans as an exhaust, i'm sure you've prob tried the majority of solutions? and short of running the cable physically under the mobo (between the mobo and riser plate) there's always an extension chord? where you'd source one is beyond me but i'm more than sure there is such a thing..

But looking good man, keep it up


It's a mid tower. I'd love a full tower for the room, but it's just not worth it to me. I'm 33 and have been taking apart and building these darn things since I was 17 and everytime I see a full tower I'm turned off by the size of it. Just too big for my tastes.


----------



## WarlordOne

Quote:



Originally Posted by *styckx*


Having the radiator up front would have been nice, but there is that giant 5870 sticking its butt where optional 3rd front intake fan mount is placed.









I switched my radiator push/pull to intake instead, I'll go the day and monitor how that works out.

So hard sometimes to monitor temps. This morning I was idling at 33c (i5 @ 3.5) now in the afternoon as the radiant air temp has risen (nice day out!!) I'm up at 37c idle.


That shouldn't make much of a difference in fitment. I have my radiator all the way up front where the the GPU doesn't reach. I have a pic of it at home, if I have time tonight I'll post it.

Anyway, you should be good just running it as an intake now...


----------



## chatch15117

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*












From my understanding, PSUs blow *out* the back of the case, not into the case. Wrong arrow?

WHY would a PSU dump hot air into the case?


----------



## styckx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chatch15117*


From my understanding, PSUs blow *out* the back of the case, not into the case. Wrong arrow?

WHY would a PSU dump hot air into the case?


lol! Whoops. Yes wrong arrow.


----------



## atakapa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *styckx*


Yeah I know. As you can see most all the other cables are ran behind the mobo on the other side of the case and back out where they need to be. That 12vatx cable just isn't long enough to where it needs to go. About an inch more and I probably could have pulled it off. It was driving my OCD nuts just seeing it strewn across the top over the cards.



Lots of solutions for short cables out there. Cable extensions work well.
Here's a quick list of different types
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...22%20-%2010%22

This one is cheap and sleeved, 9.5 inch extension, 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16812201020


----------



## styckx

Back down to 33c idle. (no speedstep etc) I'm finding this is rather picky about the amount of thermal grease and mounting. More so then most h/s fan combos I've ever played with. I think I'm finally in the sweet spot though.

Remounted it when switching from exhaust to intake: 36c idle, and did an intel burn test and it rocketed up to 70c. Not cool!

Opened it up, reapplied thermal grease, remounted, back down to 33c and 60c under Intel Burn Test. Whew!


----------



## leppie

Goodbye H50.


----------



## squiggly

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
squig, i'm running a 43% OC on my E7400 (from 2.8 ghz stock up to 4GHZ) so its probably possible to push about 50% as my temps sit pretty low (soo low the temp sensors r busted and dont drop below 41







)

Thanks!


----------



## squiggly

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shizdan* 
OHHH thats why everyones load temps are so low! When I use Prime95 My load is 60C. When I use Intel Burn Test its like 75C.

IntelBurn pushed my temps to 44* after a 10x cycle! Heats up real fast too


----------



## squiggly

Quote:


Originally Posted by *clee413* 
After a few nights following the initial installation of the H50, tonight I tinkered around with management and exhausting.

I picked up a second 120mm case fan, matching exactly the same model as the fan that comes boxed along with the H50. I was a bit concerned about using different fans in case of different speed/strength.

Also, I did want to mention, the screw size used to mount the radiator is 60-32 (width) 1.25" (length) in case people wanted to know.

I tweaked the positioning of the pump very slightly to optimize the stress on the tubes. I'm a bit of an obsessive compulsive, if you couldn't tell, so I tend to review my work for days until I get it just perfect (in my eyes).

Thanks guys for all the help, I hope to be able to contribute to future discussions.










Very clean setup!


----------



## GeneralCuster44

was wondering does this thing cool better then the megahalems or just better then air???


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
Goodbye H50.

I said my goodbyes as well. Congrats on the loop. Feels good don't it?


----------



## Magus2727

What is the life expectancy or run time on the H50?


----------



## Hadenman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


What is the life expectancy or run time on the H50?


Only thing posted on Corsair's website is that it has a 2yr warranty. They make no other official claims about the life expectancy of the pump. I assume the pump would be the first thing to fail.

*Edit:* After further searching, most people expect the pump to last anywhere from 3-5 years before failing. This is somewhat speculation based on similar sized pumps.


----------



## styckx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GeneralCuster44*


was wondering does this thing cool better then the megahalems or just better then air???


It's an alternative to air cooling for those who want to dabble in water but not spend the money, time, and maintenance to build and maintain a full blown water cooling kit. It will beat a variety of air cooling options, and will also get beat by a variety of air cooling options.

It's not meant to be the end all solution, nor is it meant to be the laughing stock either. It holds its own well in the price range.

It blows away this piece of crap that actually cost me more money. Only reason I bought this is I needed a quick cash and carry beefier h/s fan combo. I said to myself "there is no way this could be THAT bad. It's $70 friggen dollars, it must perform pretty well"

I was terribly wrong. Thermaltake is a joke.


----------



## TheLastPriest

Here is mine, just installed it Sunday, dont mind the sloppy wiring, I need to rearrange, I have too much stuff in the lower portion of the case, gonna move two hard drives up. That being said this baby is awesome, I love not only the better temps but how solid the temps are, not half as much fluctuation as with air

*edit* guess the pic didnt attach the first time


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


Goodbye H50.


Farewell Leppie. I guess that SA heat wont be so much of an issue now, with your new setup.

Hey, dont be a stranger and thanks for all your input and suggestions on this thread. You and your wisdom will be missed...









Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheLastPriest*

*Here is mine,* just installed it Sunday, dont mind the sloppy wiring, I need to rearrange, I have too much stuff in the lower portion of the case, gonna move two hard drives up. That being said this baby is awesome, I love not only the better temps but how solid the temps are, not half as much fluctuation as with air


Was there supposed to be a pic attached?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *styckx*


It's an alternative to air cooling for those who want to dabble in water but not spend the money, time, and maintenance to build and maintain a full blown water cooling kit. It will beat a variety of air cooling options, and will also get beat by a variety of air cooling options.

It's not meant to be the end all solution, nor is it meant to be the laughing stock either. It holds its own well in the price range.

It blows away this piece of crap that actually cost me more money. Only reason I bought this is I needed a quick cash and carry beefier h/s fan combo. I said to myself "there is no way this could be THAT bad. It's $70 friggen dollars, it must perform pretty well"

I was terribly wrong. Thermaltake is a joke.











thermaltake is more than a joke, my old 775D silent PWM fan/ heatpipe heatsink combo from them made more noise and less results


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hadenman*


Only thing posted on Corsairs website is that it has a 2yr warranty. They make no other official claims about the life expectancy of the pump. I assume the pump would be the first thing to fail.


Wonder if the pump will just fail or if you would see a gradual decrease in cooling. Does the base provide enough cooling at idle if the pump does fail?

I don't have the H50 yet so I will just have to wait and see, but it would seam like with no visual way to tell if the pump is working would provide some worry. With air you can see the fan blades moving and if it does fail you still have the heat sink. With WC loops flow meters can be installed... but I gess all the reviews have not posted any problems.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Farewell Leppie. I guess that SA heat wont be so much of an issue now, with your new setup.

Hey, dont be a stranger and thanks for all your input and suggestions on this thread. You and your wisdom will be missed...









Was there supposed to be a pic attached?


halada halda halda you still have me sethy, i'm going nowhere fast xD


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


Hey mate looking good, i'd have the h-50 pull cold air from the back into the case and out the top, but the side fan is a good idea too..

Kinda like this



and by the way, having the 12vatx cable running over your mobo and between your gpu isn't the best idea, try running it behind the mobo or orund the side!!


or you could try it my way guys, considering i may be a bit smarter?


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


or you could try it my way guys, considering i may be a bit smarter?


 What pressure might that create? Positive or negative? It seems like it might need another fan turned in exhaust to keep the heat flowing out, but I can't tell.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


What pressure might that create? Positive or negative? It seems like it might need another fan turned in exhaust to keep the heat flowing out, but I can't tell.


not much pressure.. the side panel fans are on speed control down to 1500 rpms each, the rear runs at full on molex, as do the top exhaust fans, and h50 push pull fans. every fan except that 1 230mm in the front is an R4 in my case, so yeah, fast moving air, no dust collection lol'

and speed control reduces noise to the point that i only hear my GFX fan spinning

the heat factor is such, that the 120mm R4 mounted in the top exhaust slot closest to my intake H50, automatically catches the hot air and sucks it out,and whatever the first top fan leaves, the second gets


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
not much pressure.. the side panel fans are on speed control down to 1500 rpms each, the rear runs at full on molex, as do the top exhaust fans, and h50 push pull fans. every fan except that 1 230mm in the front is an R4 in my case, so yeah, fast moving air, no dust collection lol'

and speed control reduces noise to the point that i only hear my GFX fan spinning

Now... who wants to see my modded H50?
(Doesn't look that different besides tubes)


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Now... who wants to see my modded H50?
(Doesn't look that different besides tubes)

not me? when i have some money when i'm paid at the end of the week, i'm replacing my damaged mobo, and perhaps doing an H50 res mod myself, ill hafta see whats left in my budget


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
not me? when i have some money when i'm paid at the end of the week, i'm replacing my damaged mobo, and perhaps doing an H50 res mod myself, ill hafta see whats left in my budget

I actually didn't feel like buying a res yet, since I will probably go for a nice half-liter one or something.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
halada halda halda you still have me sethy, i'm going nowhere fast xD

Phew... Im happy about that









What mobo did you decide on BTW?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Now... who wants to see my modded H50?
(Doesn't look that different besides tubes)

Yeah... Im game... show us your bits!


----------



## PCSarge

Sethy666 said:


> Phew... Im happy about that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What mobo did you decide on BTW?
> 
> i decided to go for the xfx board, if its still in stock, otherwise ill find something, thier starting an in store clearance, so online prices are higher xP


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
i decided to go for the xfx board, if its still in stock, otherwise ill find something, thier starting an in store clearance, so online prices are higher xP

Okay... good luck with it. You know where to come if you have any dramas


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Okay... good luck with it. You know where to come if you have any dramas









*straps grenade to asus mobo on friday* oh lord, bless this thy hand grenade, and that with it i shall dispose of my useless pc parts, en thy masse

*pulls pin and tosses mobo through the window of a car and runs*


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
*straps grenade to asus mobo on friday* oh lord, bless this thy hand grenade, and that with it i shall dispose of my useless pc parts, en thy masse

*pulls pin and tosses mobo through the window of a car and runs*

go with xfx or gigabyte : D


----------



## styckx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


*straps grenade to asus mobo on friday* oh lord, bless this thy hand grenade, and that with it i shall dispose of my useless pc parts, en thy masse

*pulls pin and tosses mobo through the window of a car and runs*


Problems with Asus huh?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


go with xfx or gigabyte : D


I vote for Gigabyte GA-MA790FXT-UD5P has been a great board for me. Does anything I want.....made me a nice cappucino last night then vacumed the whole house....It's out there raking the lawn as I type this


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


not much pressure.. the side panel fans are on speed control down to 1500 rpms each, the rear runs at full on molex, as do the top exhaust fans, and h50 push pull fans. every fan except that 1 230mm in the front is an R4 in my case, so yeah, fast moving air, no dust collection lol'

and speed control reduces noise to the point that i only hear my GFX fan spinning

the heat factor is such, that the 120mm R4 mounted in the top exhaust slot closest to my intake H50, automatically catches the hot air and sucks it out,and whatever the first top fan leaves, the second gets


I vote for that configuration as well. Works just fine on my HAF 922


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *styckx*


Problems with Asus huh?


Pleeeeeease dont get her started on her ASUS mobo


----------



## yellowtoblerone

Move along nothing to see here.


----------



## Magus2727

Seams like you have some cooling issues
..


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone*


Move along nothing to see here.



Its like a train crash... I shouldnt look but I have toooooo...









Going caseless, hah?


----------



## harrison

this thing is grate! just got mine and i love it i droped 19c in temp cant get over 60c load temps, i need to oc more


----------



## styckx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Its like a train crash... I shouldnt look but I have toooooo...









Going caseless, hah?


You want train wreck cooling? Just go to console land


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *styckx* 
You want train wreck cooling? Just go to console land









<shudders>... is that a HP Pavillion I see under that desk. PII methinks, I used to have one of those


----------



## xserpint

I have some amazing results from some IBT testing I was doing tonight.

Inital results with a single ultra kaze 3k, intake mounted on the back:

85-89C across all cores after 5 passes of IBT (that's all it takes to heat this thing up).

After adding a shroud:

max temp was 72C.

I don't have a before pic since I didn't expect this and shoehorning the thing back out is not something I want to do, but here is the after pic:


----------



## stat1kirl

What are some great fans for this cooler? I don't want to go through 574 pages. Something with a lot of static pressure? Which would be what? I was thinking about the CM R4's. But what's better that can push more air. I'm getting a setup on Friday and I need to decide fast. Any help would be appreciated. Noise isn't that huge of an issue. If anything I'll get a fan controller.


----------



## xserpint

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stat1kirl*


What are some great fans for this cooler? I don't want to go through 574 pages. Something with a lot of static pressure? Which would be what? I was thinking about the CM R4's. But what's better that can push more air. I'm getting a setup on Friday and I need to decide fast. Any help would be appreciated. Noise isn't that huge of an issue. If anything I'll get a fan controller.


I'm loving my Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000. The thing moves air like a jet engine and sounds like a high price server fan (which are usually deltas).


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stat1kirl* 
What are some great fans for this cooler? I don't want to go through 574 pages. Something with a lot of static pressure? Which would be what? I was thinking about the CM R4's. But what's better that can push more air. I'm getting a setup on Friday and I need to decide fast. Any help would be appreciated. Noise isn't that huge of an issue. If anything I'll get a fan controller.

You're going to get a lot of people telling you CMR4's, but I'd go with Scythe GT AP-15's. A lot of people use them as well, and if you want them pre-sleeved, get them here http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24749


----------



## stat1kirl

Not craving the sound of deltas. My old dell had one of those delta 92mm's. Wasn't the best fan for my liking. LoL.


----------



## Killhouse

You could always look at the Feser Triebwerk 122s


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84*


You're going to get a lot of people telling you CMR4's, but I'd go with Scythe GT AP-15's. A lot of people use them as well, and if you want them pre-sleeved, get them here http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24749


I disagree. Those only move 57cfm at 1850rpm. A Slipstream of the same dba moves 68cfm and spins 600rpm slower at 1200rpm. Yate Loons are pointless for this application. The R4's spin at 2000 rpm and move 69cfm. R4's have superior static pressure, though, to the Slipstream. But are around 27dba. I have both Slipstreams and R4's and the Slipstream doesn't have anywhere near the ass as the R4's. Not saying all of these aren't great fans, you just have to figure out if you want pure performance or a quieter environment. You can quiet the R4's buy using a fan shroud.


----------



## harrison

why do you need fans that fast? stock fans work grate and how much air do you think you can push in that small of space? an not hurt preformance. i think your just maken noise.


----------



## dkev

Quote:



Originally Posted by *harrison*


why do you need fans that fast? stock fans work grate and how much air do you think you can push in that small of space? an not hurt preformance. i think your just maken noise.


Well for idle temps it wouldn't mater. But load temps, it does make a difference. With the R4's I only got a 6c rise under full load which is awesome. And really, the R4's aren't that loud. It's not Dell quiet but it's acceptable for a gaming rig.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Guys, I got an interesting observation.

Trying to make my room cooler and quiter, I decided to downclock my i7 cruncher to 3.8 GHz @ 1.17v and turn down all the fans to the lowest, and remove my two 110CFM Scythe fans from my H50 and put the factory COrsair fan on it at a low setting.

Well here is my observation.

Push and Pull 110 CFM Scythe S Flexs

3.4 GHz 1.32v max temp was 39-40Âºc

Factory Corsair fan pushing configuration
3.4 GHz 1.32v max temp is 40Âºc.

I guess the factory Corsair fan has really good static pressure. I wouldn't mind getting 2nd one then. Crazy and weird, but that's my observation. What do you guys think?


----------



## PCSarge

i think you broke your temp probe, or the room your in is like 15 degreees celsius, cause my idle temp w/ push/pull R4s is 27C and my load is between 36 and 38C pending on which program i stress with, that is also due to the fact that my basement is cold, and will be subzero once the summer comes and my A/C is on


----------



## sexybastard

Well I am sad to say but I have moved on from the H50. We had a great run and a good time together... I enjoyed modding her and seeing what she could do but in the end I have gone back to air. The Megahalem is no slouch and I am seeing better temps then I was on the stock H50 but for the size and convenience the H50 will always have a soft spot in my heart.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
i think you broke your temp probe, or the room your in is like 15 degreees celsius, cause my idle temp w/ push/pull R4s is 27C and my load is between 36 and 38C pending on which program i stress with, that is also due to the fact that my basement is cold, and will be subzero once the summer comes and my A/C is on

Temp probe is fine, room I'm in is 22-23Âºc, '


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sexybastard* 
Well I am sad to say but I have moved on from the H50. We had a great run and a good time together... I enjoyed modding her and seeing what she could do but in the end I have gone back to air. The Megahalem is no slouch and I am seeing better temps then I was on the stock H50 but for the size and convenience the H50 will always have a spot spot in my heart.

suckage, i almost bought a CM V8 air cooler before i saw the H50 on the shelf next to it... i might stil lbuy it and do a performance test lol


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sexybastard* 
Well I am sad to say but I have moved on from the H50. We had a great run and a good time together... I enjoyed modding her and seeing what she could do but in the end I have gone back to air. The Megahalem is no slouch and I am seeing better temps then I was on the stock H50 but for the size and convenience the H50 will always have a spot spot in my heart.

I still love my Mega, It's running on my Intel Core i7 cruncher. Keeps it nice and cool even with the fans turned down all the way (Antec Tri Cools)

EDIT

This is kinda embarrassing, but I'll share it. Happened to me today. I was having issues with the PC booting.

*
"I assembled my H50 today, I had swapped out some fans and I boot up and see my temps at 75Âºc. I freak 9out open other programs and see it, so I touch my rad and it's cool to the touch. Since I had just installed windows and drivers and such I thought it was just reading it wrong. The pump seemed to be on.

I guess the vibration I was feeling was from the fans itself, when I went into the BIOS it had been running at 70+Âºc the whole time it installed windows and drivers. THe reason why the computer was not booting was because it was overheating. I have WCG set to start with windows so thats why it barely made it past the windows screen. So I reinstalled windows for no reason now that I think about it. That's why I got home and found the PC off, apparently the connector was not clipping in right and popping off by itself and the pump stopped working.

I grabbed it and hooked it up to a different 3pin to 4 pin molex adapter I had laying around my temps were back to normal. ***!"*


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
I still love my Mega, It's running on my Intel Core i7 cruncher. Keeps it nice and cool even with the fans turned down all the way (Antec Tri Cools)

EDIT

This is kinda embarrassing, but I'll share it. Happened to me today. I was having issues with the PC booting.

*
"I assembled my H50 today, I had swapped out some fans and I boot up and see my temps at 75Âºc. I freak 9out open other programs and see it, so I touch my rad and it's cool to the touch. Since I had just installed windows and drivers and such I thought it was just reading it wrong. The pump seemed to be on.

I guess the vibration I was feeling was from the fans itself, when I went into the BIOS it had been running at 70+Âºc the whole time it installed windows and drivers. THe reason why the computer was not booting was because it was overheating. I have WCG set to start with windows so thats why it barely made it past the windows screen. So I reinstalled windows for no reason now that I think about it. That's why I got home and found the PC off, apparently the connector was not clipping in right and popping off by itself and the pump stopped working.

I grabbed it and hooked it up to a different 3pin to 4 pin molex adapter I had laying around my temps were back to normal. ***!"*

thats more than embarrassing xD mind u my first aftermarket air cooler i had to reseat it 4 times cause i use too much TIM xD


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
thats more than embarrassing xD mind u my first aftermarket air cooler i had to reseat it 4 times cause i use too much TIM xD

How much TIM were you using?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sexybastard* 
Well I am sad to say but I have moved on from the H50. We had a great run and a good time together... I enjoyed modding her and seeing what she could do but in the end I have gone back to air. The Megahalem is no slouch and I am seeing better temps then I was on the stock H50 but for the size and convenience the H50 will always have a soft spot in my heart.

Hey SB... its been fun. Dont forget to drop in and keep us real from time to time









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Stat1kirl*
What are some great fans for this cooler? I don't want to go through 574 pages. Something with a lot of static pressure? Which would be what? I was thinking about the CM R4's. But what's better that can push more air. I'm getting a setup on Friday and I need to decide fast. Any help would be appreciated. Noise isn't that huge of an issue. If anything I'll get a fan controller.

Have a look at the first page of this thread. There is a list of the commonly used fans of H50 owners.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
How much TIM were you using?









chicken, this was like a good 9 yrs ago, i was still a little girl fooling around, i didnt realize i used too much till i had the whole little tube of paste squeezed onto the heatplate lol


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Hey SB... its been fun. Dont forget to drop in and keep us real from time to time









It has been. I will drop by from time to time but there's no real reason as this thread has experts like you


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


It has been. I will drop by from time to time but there's no real reason as this thread has experts like you










Ahhh but you did the first mod on this beast. That make you sort of... a legend


----------



## ExperimentX

Add me to the club list please!










Sorry about the crappy iphone quality pic.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ExperimentX*


Add me to the club list please!

Sorry about the crappy iphone quality pic.


You can add yourself - there is a spreadsheet on the first page.

Welcome to the house of fun!

Are you doing intake or exhaust and how are your temps... yes, we are a nosey bunch here


----------



## opty165

How many of you have the H50 mounted in the front drive bays of a CM690? I'm looking to do this to mine and the only thing I can think of is zip ties lol


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *opty165*


How many of you have the H50 mounted in the front drive bays of a CM690? I'm looking to do this to mine and the only thing I can think of is zip ties lol


Oh me! me! pick me! I do









Zip tie rule! See pic... when I find it!

Ahhh... there they are


----------



## ExperimentX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


You can add yourself - there is a spreadsheet on the first page.

Welcome to the house of fun!

Are you doing intake or exhaust and how are your temps... yes, we are a nosey bunch here










I have it in an Exhaust config, that being said, I have 4 147cfm Delta's blowing directly under the intake fan (push/pull config with R4 CM fans for now, gonna slap the deltas on the rad this weekend after finding some slightly longer screws at Home Depot, don't wanna use zip-ties lol)

IDLE:










LOAD: (only ran for a few minutes on Prime95 but the temps were not budging past the 59c mark)


----------



## burn1021

im curious aswell about the h50 temps. i just bought one for my i7 non-clocked and its sitting idle on a cool day at 24degrees C ambient about 23C and at 100 % load around 48ish C with it being about 30C however im worried cause the room i have it in is really hot in the summer. this is on a evga x58 micro sli mobo with stock i7 920 2.65. in haf 922 atx case.


----------



## opty165

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Oh me! me! pick me! I do









Zip tie rule! See pic... when I find it!

Ahhh... there they are



















Thank for the pics! I'm going to try this type of setup int he hopes of lower the temps a little bit more. It makes more sense to have the Rad in the front sucking air in, instead of having it in the back where it also sucks in the rising hot air from my 5870 card. I figure sense I have enough case fans anyway, i'll be able to vent any hot air out of the case still.

Is this a pretty well sound idea?


----------



## DefecTalisman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *styckx* 
Yeah I know. As you can see most all the other cables are ran behind the mobo on the other side of the case and back out where they need to be. That 12vatx cable just isn't long enough to where it needs to go. About an inch more and I probably could have pulled it off. It was driving my OCD nuts just seeing it strewn across the top over the cards.

I am pretty sure that case must have options to have the PSU either way around. If you where to turn it around then the cables would be closer to the board and you should gain a inch or 2 on the cables. Plus if it is pulling air from the top and extracting out the rear then it would be pulling air from under the case and pumping it out, thus not affecting your case airflow.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Oh me! me! pick me! I do









Zip tie rule! See pic... when I find it!

Ahhh... there they are


















I want to put it the same way as you on my HAF 932, I just need my mom to get me some small zip ties -.- The ones I got are too thick to fit the fan's holes....

You think I'll notice anything signifficant?


----------



## DefecTalisman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


I want to put it the same way as you on my HAF 932, I just need my mom to get me some small zip ties -.- The ones I got are too thick to fit the fan's holes....

You think I'll notice anything signifficant?


I have it in push pull in my 5.25" bays. I used the case from a old CD rom, cut it to fit in the slots and then smacked a 115mm hole in the middle. Sprayed it black and zip tied it in there. Just note that the rad takes up 3 and a half bays, so you will only be able to fit a half depth drive in the bay above the fan.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
chicken, this was like a good 9 yrs ago, i was still a little girl fooling around, i didnt realize i used too much till i had the whole little tube of paste squeezed onto the heatplate lol









The whole tube??????????? yikes!!


----------



## styckx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DefecTalisman*


I am pretty sure that case must have options to have the PSU either way around. If you where to turn it around then the cables would be closer to the board and you should gain a inch or 2 on the cables. Plus if it is pulling air from the top and extracting out the rear then it would be pulling air from under the case and pumping it out, thus not affecting your case airflow.


This case actually doesn't. Nothing a hole saw couldn't fix though.









Or an extension cable. Which is what I'll end up doing.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


or you could try it my way guys, considering i may be a bit smarter?


What?!!

I really cant help but be slightly offended by this comment!

I don't really care though but that was a bit below the belt, I've said nothing of your intellect!! why question my intelligible solution?


----------



## Electroneng

Quote:

Yate Loons are pointless for this application.
I totally disagree! I had CM R4 fans in a push pull exhaust setup and I tried some Yate loons D12SH-12. I have the fans set at 1950 rpm constantly.

Very little noise difference and my idle temps dropped 3C and my IBT max temps at 3.9ghz are now 59C, They were at 67C with the R4.

59C at 3.9ghz is amazing on the I7!!!!!!!!

An 8C difference definitely is not pointless!

The R4 Fans will replace the Thermaltake fans on my side door.


----------



## rickyman0319

i have modded my H50 with resivor. i am wondering if i can remodded again so i have two resviror and extra pump with H50.


----------



## styckx

I can't ever touch a Thermaltake fan again. Years ago I bought a pair of them. Rated up to 4800rpm, 80mm fans. They were perhaps the loudest fans I've ever used. They never seemed to move much air unless you cranked it up to 4800rpm but then it literally sounded like you had a leaf blower in your PC.


----------



## Chicken Patty

^^^^ rofl!!!


----------



## Magus2727

I have two iCage's from thermal take and the fan is 17dB with 32 cfm, I have Enermax fans on the way that are only 1 dB louder and twice the airflow at 60+ cfm. Thermaltake had its day a few years ago, now they are sitting at the bottom. I had there huge twin tower cooler with a 120mm fan and my CPU never got over 48c under prime... granted it was not overclocked and a single core.

I plan on getting these type of fans for the radiator also. Quite and high cfm.


----------



## Nutriment

had 2 yate loons in push pull, my two nf-p12 took 3 degrees off them, quite nice!


----------



## Electroneng

Quote:

had 2 yate loons in push pull, my two nf-p12 took 3 degrees off them, quite nice!
Thats strange! Did you have the 88cfm SH fans. The lower speed SM and SL fans would probably be beat by the Nocturas. The SH Fans have twice the static pressure ratings as the nf-p12 fans. The SM are similar in rating to your fans.


----------



## styckx

Just going to ask this question in this thread since it pertains to the temps of the H50 I'm monitoring.

What is the most accurate temp probing software?

Right now idle temps

Core temp: 33/34c
Realtemp: 33/34c
SpeedFan: 35c
Asus Suite: 35c
OCCT: 38c

Real Temp and Core Temp are the two most in sync with each other, while Speedfan/Asus Suite borders on a 2 degree difference, and OCCT is the most out of sync averaging 5 degrees higher then my base temps of core temp/realtemp.

For all I know OCCT could be the most accurate. So which is it? I realize in the long run this doesn't matter all "too" much, but its bugging me so I'm asking.


----------



## DarkFury

I'm now a member of this club with my newly built system... running the h50 in push/pull exhaust using 2 Enermax Twister fans.

So far, I'm pretty impressed by the unit.


----------



## Electroneng

Quote:



Just going to ask this question in this thread since it pertains to the temps of the H50 I'm monitoring.

What is the most accurate temp probing software?


I use Hardware Monitor available here:

www.cpuid.com/hw*monitor*.php

and Realtemp to monitor my temps.

They both give similar core temps plus with hardware monitor, I can watch all the temperatures in my machine (not just CPU related).


----------



## iGuitarGuy

got my new thermal paste! Going to take pics of the inside of my case to show you all!


----------



## mr-Charles

...just to let you know that i have gotten an emailing's about's this BETTER_AMD bracket is back in stock ! ! 
IF you dedide to order, all you half to do is  >>> go 2 HERE <<<  add to cart/checkout/and make an accnt, 
then only half to pay the $5.00 shipping/handling fee, and it will be sent to ya . . .








>>> can't beat that anywhere and this is a Way-Better_bracket assembly 
then the Original "Tin_Metal" one's . . .









Here's a copy of my emailing's i received:
_
----- Original Message -----

From: <[email protected]>

Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 10:08 AM
Subject: Corsair Web Store Product Availability Notification

> Dear mr-Charles,
>
> Some time ago you placed yourself on the waiting list for Corsair part 
number CWCH50-AMDBRKT (AMD Bracket for Corsair Hydro Series H50). 
We wanted to let you know that we now have availability on this part.
>
> https://shop.corsair.com/store/item_...spx?id=1033992
>
> Thanks for your interest in Corsair.
>
> Regards,
> Performance Shop Manager_

.

....the picture of, above link, is showing of a "Metal" backplate as well. . .









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## elson

anyone know how much CFM the fan that comes with the H50 pushes? Also how fast it spins?


----------



## Danny Boy

hey, got a question for everyone, what fans did you use for push/pull setup? thanks


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *elson*


anyone know how much CFM the fan that comes with the H50 pushes? Also how fast it spins?


{ even tho i have post'd this earlier(posting's#5478).....no prob's....... 4 here ya go . . .







}

cfm = 59.05

db(A) = 29.75

...[ stated spec's from a review = " The kit also comes with a single 7-blade 120x120x25mm cooling fan that runs at 1700RPM. After contacting the engineers at Corsair we were informed that the fan was sourced from well known cooling fan manufacturer Akasa. The model AK174CB-4BLB cooling fan has a 50,000 hour life span and a twin ball bearing design. *This fan consumes 2.2W when running at 1700RPM* and has a noise level of 29.75 dB(A). The max airflow is 59.05CFM, with a static pressure of 3.57mm H20." ]

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## elson

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


{ even tho i have post'd this earlier(posting's#5478).....no prob's....... 4 here ya go . . .







}

cfm = 59.05

db(A) = 29.75

...[ stated spec's from a review = " The kit also comes with a single 7-blade 120x120x25mm cooling fan that runs at 1700RPM. After contacting the engineers at Corsair we were informed that the fan was sourced from well known cooling fan manufacturer Akasa. The model AK174CB-4BLB cooling fan has a 50,000 hour life span and a twin ball bearing design. *This fan consumes 2.2W when running at 1700RPM* and has a noise level of 29.75 dB(A). The max airflow is 59.05CFM, with a static pressure of 3.57mm H20." ]

mr-Charles .









.


thanks!


----------



## Danny Boy

just ordered the h50 with 2 coolermaster blue 120mm r4's for push/pull


----------



## Iroh

Oh snap! Finely threaded tension retention with a better flatter metal backer! Sweet!~


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Danny Boy*


hey, got a question for everyone, what fans did you use for push/pull setup? thanks



just to mention a few for you to compare/consider =
{ jst click onto any one and read about's & compare $$$..}

Cooler Master R4-L2R-20CR-GP 120mm Red LED Silent Case Fan 90CFM 19dBA = Red

Cooler Master R4-L2R-20CG-GP 120mm Green LED Silent Case Fan 90CFM 19dBA = Green

Cooler Master R4-L2R-20AC-GP 120mm Blue LED Silent Case Fan 90CFM 19dBA = Blue

Cooler Master Y720DCD-25T1-GP 120mm Blue LED Silent Case Fan @ 2500 RPM *110CFM 38dBA*= Blue

Scythe D1225C12B5AP-15 Gentle Typhoon 120mm Silent Case Fan 1850RPM 58CFM 28dBA < <









Scythe SFF21F 120mm S-Flex Fluid Dynamic Bearing Case Fan 3-Pin 64CFM 28dBA < <









Yate Loon 120mm D12SM-12 Medium Speed Fan 70CFM 33dBA

Yate Loon 120mm UV Blue D12SH-124UB High Speed Fan 80CFM *40dBA*

...again, just a few for to consider . . . i am sure there are other's out there as well, 
but just my bit-O- 2







worth at ya . . . .

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Iroh*


Oh snap! Finely threaded tension retention with a better flatter metal backer! Sweet!~


Yeah, 4 real......better get em' WHILE they have em' in stock; . . . . i got 4 of em' . . . . .









elson = u're Welcome, Budd . . .









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Danny Boy*


8782605]just ordered the h50 with 2 coolermaster blue 120mm r4's for push/pull


....gzzzzz........sorry i couldn't type any faster for you to read's upon . . . .

...but, you were probably ordering while i was typin' that posting's, anyway. . .LOLOLolol .....







...







...









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


What?!!

I really cant help but be slightly offended by this comment!

I don't really care though but that was a bit below the belt, I've said nothing of your intellect!! why question my intelligible solution?


ChosenLord,

I can see your point man, however...

Having known PCSarge for sometime on this thread, Id suggest she was attempting to be funny. Her sense of humour is a little off beat and sometimes attempting humour on the net can backfire... as demonstrated by this.

I am not apologising for her and Im sure she can handle her own battles but for the sake of harmony on this thread and to nip things in the bud, Im jumping in now.

I would suggest she didnt mean to be condescending or rude... she is great value and sometimes her humour can be an acquired taste.


----------



## paleblue

Sorry if this has been asked before but I was wondering if anyone has tried mounting the rad/fans outside the case perhaps at 90 degrees to the back of the case so that it neither intakes or exhausts the case. I don't even know if the hoses are long enough for that. (I ordered mine yesterday, won't have it for a week).


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *paleblue*


Sorry if this has been asked before but I was wondering if anyone has tried mounting the rad/fans outside the case perhaps at 90 degrees to the back of the case so that it neither intakes or exhausts the case. I don't even know if the hoses are long enough for that. (I ordered mine yesterday, won't have it for a week).



Yes it has... but I deleted that subscribed thread just yesterday









Let me see if I can find it...

There you go...

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...e-my-case.html


----------



## styckx

My next days off I'm going to break out the tools and remount mine up front. I get the logic behind the using it as an intake but it still doesn't make sense to me in my situation. Same with exhausting it.

I have my gaming PC with the H50 stacked on top of my media center/general purpose PC and both rear ends of them facing a wall. So, in that situation (even if they were side by side) I have two p/s exhausting, one 9800 GTX+ exhausting, and one Radeon 5870 exhausting and the air gets pretty stale behind there. 4 hardware exhausts and my lonesome H50 push/pull intake is at the top of the food chain. So, repositioning it up front to suck in the coolest, freshest air in the room makes more sense.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *styckx* 
My next days off I'm going to break out the tools and remount mine up front. I get the logic behind the using it as an intake but it still doesn't make sense to me in my situation. Same with exhausting it.

I have my gaming PC with the H50 stacked on top of my media center/general purpose PC and both rear ends of them facing a wall. So, in that situation (even if they were side by side) I have two p/s exhausting, one 9800 GTX+ exhausting, and one Radeon 5870 exhausting and the air gets pretty stale behind there. 4 hardware exhausts and my lonesome H50 push/pull intake is at the top of the food chain. So, repositioning it up front to suck in the coolest, freshest air in the room makes more sense.

Id suggest you may see an improvement with your proposed setup. My case scenario is similar to yours and I saw an improvement in both CPU and case temps, moving to intake.

Having said that, we are in Autumn atm, so room ambients are coming down anyway.


----------



## Magus2727

When will the new bracket come with the purchase of a whole (new) system? When ordering do we need to watch for a specific build code of some sort?


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
When will the new bracket come with the purchase of a whole (new) system? When ordering do we need to watch for a specific build code of some sort?


Are you referring to about's the bracket for within the posting's of #5782???

IF so, all i know of, is there seems to be a "Rev. 3" version of the H50(CWCH50-1) >>> click HERE 2 C <<<
. . . and it is possible this is the NEW version out WITH this newer bracket assembly for the AMD's.
OR maybe even having all the bracket assemblies within to be alike & Better . . .
ONLY way to find out is ask a person who has one of these newer version's . . .
otherwise, at least it's nice to know This {AMD} bracket can be pick'd up for cheapy . . .









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


Are you referring to about's the bracket for within the posting's of #5782???

IF so, all i know of, is there seems to be a "Rev. 3" version of the H50(CWCH50-1)  >>> click HERE 2 C <<< 
. . . and it is possible this is the NEW version out WITH this newer bracket assembly for the AMD's. 
OR maybe even having all the bracket assemblies within to be alike & Better . . . 
ONLY way to find out is ask a person who has one of these newer version's . . . 
otherwise, at least it's nice to know This {AMD} bracket can be pick'd up for cheapy . . .









mr-Charles .









.


So what's the difference b/w the rev 3 and other versions?


----------



## styckx

I have that model # and mine came with these.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Oh me! me! pick me! I do









Zip tie rule! See pic... when I find it!

Ahhh... there they are


















sethy, i did something that may help stability wise on zip ties, putting the zip ties around the screws that hold the front fan on keeps it rock solid centered in place and also allows the use of thicher ones, resulting in only having to cable tie the front fan with everything screwed to it


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
ChosenLord,

I can see your point man, however...

Having known PCSarge for sometime on this thread, Id suggest she was attempting to be funny. Her sense of humour is a little off beat and sometimes attempting humour on the net can backfire... as demonstrated by this.

I am not apologising for her and Im sure she can handle her own battles but for the sake of harmony on this thread and to nip things in the bud, Im jumping in now.

I would suggest she didnt mean to be condescending or rude... she is great value and sometimes her humour can be an acquired taste.

well at least someone appreciates my humor


----------



## DefecTalisman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Electroneng*


I use Hardware Monitor available here:

www.cpuid.com/hw*monitor*.php

and Realtemp to monitor my temps.

They both give similar core temps plus with hardware monitor, I can watch all the temperatures in my machine (not just CPU related).


I use CPUID Hardware monitor. Is that what you are reffering to ? I have also noticed iregularities in this though. I run prime95(full tilt) for a while and then looking at the individual core temps they were all 40+, but the CPU reading was bellow 40 ? ? ?

I have push/pull R4's, after booting up (Hardware monitor in start up) I get across all 4 cores after startup, 28c-32c. Then with basic use (internet browsing) it goes down about 1-2c. I am trying for a stable overclock, got the cpu stable for 15mins prime95 small FFT's(had to go to work) at 3.7ghz yesterday (trying to get my RAM to perform at 1866).

Anyways, could anyone please inform me a little on what temps I should be getting outta my H50 at a stock clock (specs in sig) ? I would like to know if I should replace stock TIM with MX2 or even wait for my MX3 to come to me via a friend ? Not even sure if the pump and heat plate is seated correctly.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R1P5AW* 
So what's the difference b/w the rev 3 and other versions?

Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
Are you referring to about's the bracket for within the posting's of #5782???

IF so, all i know of, is there *seems to be a "Rev. 3" version* of the H50(CWCH50-1) >>> click HERE 2 C <<<
. . . and it is *possible* this is the _NEW version out WITH this newer bracket assembly for the AMD's._
OR maybe even having all the bracket assemblies within to be alike & Better . . .
_ONLY way to find out is ask a person who has one of these newer version's . . ._
otherwise, at least it's nice to know This {AMD} bracket can be pick'd up for cheapy . . .









_*Your guess is better than mine, OR their doing the ol' "Sale's Pitch/ Gimmick" . . .







*_

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *styckx* 
I have that model # and mine came with these.










AND "WHERE" might i ask did you purchase this from; even for being that particular model, it does NOT have the print of " *REV. 3* " around's anywhere on that label. . . That would mostly tend to show me that it is more of the " *REV.2* ", for when Corsair began to have _*that*_ particular bracket included for AMD mounting.

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
ChosenLord,

I can see your point man, however...

Having known PCSarge for sometime on this thread, Id suggest she was attempting to be funny. Her sense of humour is a little off beat and sometimes attempting humour on the net can backfire... as demonstrated by this.

I am not apologising for her and Im sure she can handle her own battles but for the sake of harmony on this thread and to nip things in the bud, Im jumping in now.

I would suggest she didnt mean to be condescending or rude... she is great value and sometimes her humour can be an acquired taste.

Hey man, i'm a hard man to offend, i was just shocked, like i said i dont really care, i'm not one to start any slagging match, i laughed when i read it, i was like. "hmm, seems like she know me!"

I love this forum, come rain or shine.

Thanks for the concern.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
well at least someone appreciates my humor























Much appreciated, i forget text carry no tone!


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Before new thermal paste:
























I will include after photos later today. (I moved some stuff around).


----------



## Willhemmens

iGuitarGuy, the lengths of tubing you are using are too long for my liking. Also some of those bends are quite tight. Both of these things will restrict flow.


----------



## whoisron

does anyone know if you can control the rad fan speeds even if you have a y splitter cable hooked up to two fans?


----------



## teaston

Hi, does anyone have an opinion on a good PWM fan to replace the standard one?

I have searched this thread and the only recommendations seem to be for 3 pin fans. I don't want a fan that runs at full speed the whole time, because i want to keep it as quiet as possible.

I really like the Scythe Gentle Typhoon but it doesn't seem to be available in PWM.


----------



## Killhouse

Your motherboard will control 3-pin fans connected to the PWM_FAN header in a similar way as it would to a PWM fan. And if it doesent you can use speedfan to control fanspeed relative to temperature that way.


----------



## happysam

Hello all!
I've been assembling a box for a while and have found this thread incredibly useful for info on my particular (still a paycheck from finished) setup - thanks so much for sharing! I'll definately be posting pics and benchmarks once finished.

I'm building in an Antec nine hundred two (with that 20cm top fan).
My concerns are thus: running the H50 as an intake will be best and preferably with push/pull fans - will the 'big boy' suffice as my only exhaust with 3 (two front drive bays and one side) intakes plus the doubled-up intake right below it?

the only other option i can see is to hack up a tunnel in the top 3 drive bays - but that's going to get hairy pretty quick as my mobo (rampage II extreme) is slightly over ATX width, and forces all of the fans and radiator to be inside that drive space and not beyond.

I noticed some other posters are using this case with intake through that rear fan and some more who have set up intakes in their drive bays in other cases. How's it going with those who used the rear as an intake, and has anyone pulled this mod off in the 902?

Any other suggestions?

sorry for the long post. it's late and I'm feelin' pedantic.


----------



## teaston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Your motherboard will control 3-pin fans connected to the PWM_FAN header in a similar way as it would to a PWM fan. And if it doesent you can use speedfan to control fanspeed relative to temperature that way.










Thanks for the quick reply!

I have put one of my case fans into the PWM header and it just runs at 100%

Also tried turning off Q fan in bios, then control the fan speed with speedfan, but doesn't work! (i have used speedfan for my case fans for years and works perfectly with them)

This is why I need a pwm fan, as there seems to be no other way with my mobo.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *happysam*


Hello all!
I've been assembling a box for a while and have found this thread incredibly useful for info on my particular (still a paycheck from finished) setup - thanks so much for sharing! I'll definately be posting pics and benchmarks once finished.

I'm building in an Antec nine hundred two (with that 20cm top fan).
My concerns are thus: running the H50 as an intake will be best and preferably with push/pull fans - will the 'big boy' suffice as my only exhaust with 3 (two front drive bays and one side) intakes plus the doubled-up intake right below it?

the only other option i can see is to hack up a tunnel in the top 3 drive bays - but that's going to get hairy pretty quick as my mobo (rampage II extreme) is slightly over ATX width, and forces all of the fans and radiator to be inside that drive space and not beyond.

I noticed some other posters are using this case with intake through that rear fan and some more who have set up intakes in their drive bays in other cases. How's it going with those who used the rear as an intake, and has anyone pulled this mod off in the 902?

Any other suggestions?

sorry for the long post. it's late and I'm feelin' pedantic.


Are you not running a rear exhaust also? with the top fan and a good rear fan I would think you should be fine... Measure what your input CFM is and what your output CFM is and try to make them equal if not having more on the output.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teaston*


Thanks for the quick reply!

I have put one of my case fans into the PWM header and it just runs at 100%

Also tried turning off Q fan in bios, then control the fan speed with speedfan, but doesn't work! (i have used speedfan for my case fans for years and works perfectly with them)

This is why I need a pwm fan, as there seems to be no other way with my mobo.


Plug the pump into the PWM cpu fan header. Plug the rad fans with a y splitter into a chassis fan header and control with speedfan.


----------



## teaston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *whoisron*


does anyone know if you can control the rad fan speeds even if you have a y splitter cable hooked up to two fans?


Yes! I have done this before with two 3 pin fans. Think i had to cut the yellow wire going to one of the fans so the mobo would read the fan speed from just one of the fans. Both fans will spin at the correct/same speed.


----------



## teaston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Plug the pump into the PWM cpu fan header. Plug the rad fans with a y splitter into a chassis fan header and control with speedfan.


Hi, thanks for the reply.

I have 4 chassis/system fan headers, which are all linked!
So if i connect in this way, when the H50 fans speed increases, so will all my case fans! Which makes a fair bit of noise which i am trying to avoid.

So are there any PWM fans that are better than the one that comes with the H50? Or are there only 3 pin fans that would work better?


----------



## Magus2727

Just make sure that you dont pull to much power through the board pins... i think most boards max out at 2 Amps


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *happysam* 
Hello all!
I've been assembling a box for a while and have found this thread incredibly useful for info on my particular (still a paycheck from finished) setup - thanks so much for sharing! I'll definately be posting pics and benchmarks once finished.

I'm building in an Antec nine hundred two (with that 20cm top fan).
My concerns are thus: running the H50 as an intake will be best and preferably with push/pull fans - will the 'big boy' suffice as my only exhaust with 3 (two front drive bays and one side) intakes plus the doubled-up intake right below it?

the only other option i can see is to hack up a tunnel in the top 3 drive bays - but that's going to get hairy pretty quick as my mobo (rampage II extreme) is slightly over ATX width, and forces all of the fans and radiator to be inside that drive space and not beyond.

I noticed some other posters are using this case with intake through that rear fan and some more who have set up intakes in their drive bays in other cases. How's it going with those who used the rear as an intake, and has anyone pulled this mod off in the 902?

Any other suggestions?

sorry for the long post. it's late and I'm feelin' pedantic.

My ThermalTake Element S has a similar fan configuration. I actually had better temps exhausting than intaking. I suggest trying both ways. People tend to be getting very random results depending on the setup.


----------



## teaston

Well after alot of searching I think i've found the ultimate PWM fan, the Cooler Master Excaliber:-

http://cmstore.coolermaster-usa.com/...roducts_id=496

It looks awesome!

It's available on eBay (from Hong Kong) from a reputable looking seller, for Â£16.28 inc. delivery! (8-9 working days):-

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Cooler-Master-...item255955576a

I have ordered it, so will let you all know if it's any good when i get it, if anyone is interested?


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
iGuitarGuy, the lengths of tubing you are using are too long for my liking. Also some of those bends are quite tight. Both of these things will restrict flow.

Well, heres my new thermal paste! Gelid Extremeeeeeee. Also, Pics of my new setup... btw that wire going across is from the side of my case, so it isn't like I can move it... so technically, it is almost neat.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *teaston* 
Well after alot of searching I think i've found the ultimate PWM fan, the Cooler Master Excaliber:-

http://cmstore.coolermaster-usa.com/...roducts_id=496

It looks awesome!

It's available on eBay (from Hong Kong) from a reputable looking seller, for Â£16.28 inc. delivery! (8-9 working days):-

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Cooler-Master-...item255955576a

I have ordered it, so will let you all know if it's any good when i get it, if anyone is interested?

A little pricey, but I would like to know : D


----------



## DaleyKD

-phew- I FINALLY caught up on reading. I think I just read 40 pages of this thread, and it's only been... a week?


----------



## teaston

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
A little pricey, but I would like to know : D

Yea I suppose, but if it's as good as the specs it should match 2 lesser fans! And with the conveniance of PWM control!

But actually it's not really expensive for this side of the pond. The best price i found for the Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm was Â£12.99 without delivery. So basically the same price but the Excaliber claims to give an extra 28 cfm at virtually the same noise level!


----------



## Darkstalker420

Hi being reading this thread (will be joining soon..i hope) i see people are modding their H50's







i was just wondering if anyone had thought about overvolting their pump?

Im not sure this would even be possible but seeing as the pump draws from a fan header (12v) it should be possible to rig it to one of the outputs from the ATX PSU connector. (I rigged my old Athlon XP cpu fan to the ATX @ 24v).

I've never owned a fast Delta fan but after hearing that @ 24v i have an idea what they must sound like lol. The fan never burned or failed (i swapped it.....I could hear it in bed upstairs








) i'm just not sure overvolting wouldn't harm the pump







.

Thanx.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Well, heres my new thermal paste! Gelid Extremeeeeeee. Also, Pics of my new setup... btw that wire going across is from the side of my case, so it isn't like I can move it... so technically, it is almost neat.

Nice setup, looks good!

Also, Gelid Extreme is the same as Tuniq TX-3 and Arctic Cooling MX-3.

Its all good stuff.


----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Nice setup, looks good!

Also, Gelid Extreme is the same as Tuniq TX-3 and Arctic Cooling MX-3.

Its all good stuff.

What abt OCZ freeze?

Seemed the best to me


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Darkstalker420* 
Hi being reading this thread (will be joining soon..i hope) i see people are modding their H50's







i was just wondering if anyone had thought about overvolting their pump?

Im not sure this would even be possible but seeing as the pump draws from a fan header (12v) it should be possible to rig it to one of the outputs from the ATX PSU connector. (I rigged my old Athlon XP cpu fan to the ATX @ 24v).

I've never owned a fast Delta fan but after hearing that @ 24v i have an idea what they must sound like lol. The fan never burned or failed (i swapped it.....I could hear it in bed upstairs







) i'm just not sure overvolting wouldn't harm the pump







.

Thanx.

I would not overvolt the pump, as even if it didnt fail immediately, im sure it wouldnt last long rending the whole H50 unit useless.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R1P5AW* 
What abt OCZ freeze?

Seemed the best to me









According to reviews, OCZ Freeze isnt quite as good, although the chances of noticing it would be low as theres Less than half a degree in it.


----------



## teaston

According to this test Shin-Etsu X23-7783D is by far the best paste on the market!
Also it shows Indigo Extreme which is really awesome, but very strange as it's not actually paste!

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=232141


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *teaston* 
According to this test Shin-Etsu X23-7783D is by far the best paste on the market!
Also it shows Indigo Extreme which is really awesome, but very strange as it's not actually paste!

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=232141

Wouldnt be much use for me as im remount my stuff very often and its not as available or as cheap as MX3.


----------



## styckx

About over volting a pump. Personally sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. I don't think you'd see any change in temps. If it's being pumped away from the heat source faster, and it's moving through the radiator faster, not cooling down as fast, and not getting as hot, then wouldn't that yield identical results?

I don't know the full in's and out's of water cooling but it would seem there would be a sweet spot for the volume of water moving in a particular setup between moving too much water, or not moving enough water.

Perhaps someone more educated then my water rookie self can explain in some detail.







Always willing to actually learn a bit.


----------



## Garanthor

Before I got my H50 I had seriously been considering the Noctua NH-D14 so today I decided to browse the Overclock NH-D14 owners club and OMG! That thing is ridiculously huge!!! It covers the whole friggin upper portion of the MB including NB. There is of course some bashing of the H50 and how you need to mod the heck out of it to get comparable temps (they refer actually to this club) but for a normal overclock on my 965 C3 (i.e. 3.8 ghz) max temps don't go above 43 C after 3 hours of Prime 95 and my set-up is very "clean" (see attached pics). Why in the world would you want something as big as the NH-D14 blocking all your airflow??? I just don't get it.


----------



## teaston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Wouldnt be much use for me as im remount my stuff very often and its not as available or as cheap as MX3.


Yea it's not cheap! But it seems it is the best! Someone may be willing to pay Â£7 for 0.5 grams, if it means they can knock a few degrees off their temps.

Who knows, H50 + 2 x Excaliber fans + Shin Etsu (+ maybe some other mods members of this forum have done) could = high end water cooler beater!?

All for a fraction of the price & hassle!


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *styckx*


About over volting a pump. Personally sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. I don't think you'd see any change in temps. If it's being pumped away from the heat source faster, and it's moving through the radiator faster, not cooling down as fast, and not getting as hot, then wouldn't that yield identical results?

I don't know the full in's and out's of water cooling but it would seem there would be a sweet spot for the volume of water moving in a particular setup between moving too much water, or not moving enough water.

Perhaps someone more educated then my water rookie self can explain in some detail.







Always willing to actually learn a bit.


Well, the more powerful the pump is the higher the flow rate, lowering CPU temps.

I can see your logic but it isnt quite right, please dont take that the wrong way.









The more turbulance there is in the radiator the better the cooling of the water, this is the reason i have my pump just before my radiator.

The H50 has been designed to be low flow and high restriction, this is why the block has very small gaps for the water to flow though, maximizing the heat transfer while the water is in the waterblock.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teaston*


Yea it's not cheap! But it seems it is the best! Someone may be willing to pay Â£7 for 0.5 grams, if it means they can knock a few degrees off their temps.

Who knows, H50 + 2 x Excaliber fans + Shin Etsu (+ maybe some other mods members of this forum have done) could = high end water cooler beater!?

All for a fraction of the price & hassle!


More like High end air cooling beater, the H50's good but its limits have been shown.

Those Excaliber fans might look nice (which they do) but they wont provide they same static pressure or pure air flow compared to other fans that people use on the H50 Rad, fans such as the Sythe Ultra Kaze 3000's, Delta's and San Aces would all cool the Radiator better. Whether you would see a temp difference I dont know, it depands on the heat load.


----------



## styckx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Well, the more powerful the pump is the higher the flow rate, lowering CPU temps.

I can see your logic but it isnt quite right, please dont take that the wrong way.










None takin. I knew I didn't know for sure, or acted like I did. Only reason I keep posting and reading here, it's for the most part a smug attitude free zone for computer talk.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *styckx*


None takin. I knew I didn't know for sure, or acted like I did. Only reason I keep posting and reading here, it's for the most part a smug attitude free zone for computer talk.










Good, we like a common place we can pop in at and talk in.

I also enjoy answering questions, so everyone keep them coming!


----------



## teaston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


More like High end air cooling beater, the H50's good but its limits have been shown.


Noooo! the H50 is far better than high end air cooling as it comes out of the box, beats the hell out of my Zalman CNPS9700!

But when i said high end water cooling, what i really meant is entry level custom water coolers! As opposed to these sealed unit water coolers.

I agree theres no way an H50 will ever compete with the really expensive liquid cooling!!


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teaston*


Noooo! the H50 is far better than high end air cooling as it comes out of the box, beats the hell out of my Zalman CNPS9700!

But when i said high end water cooling, what i really meant is entry level custom water coolers! As opposed to these sealed unit water coolers.

I agree theres no way an H50 will ever compete with the really expensive liquid cooling!!


A much as i love my 9700 (a huge amount of love), its nothing compared to the latest line up of heatsinks, it was released 5 years ago.

The H50's a good starter, i used it as a bridge between air cooling and a full custom loop. The custom loop performs quite alot better as expected. I cant realy see how you could get a H50 to perform anywhere near as good without huge mods. You might as well do no mods and just save up for a custom loop.


----------



## teaston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Those Excaliber fans might look nice (which they do) but they wont provide they same static pressure or pure air flow compared to other fans that people use on the H50 Rad, fans such as the Sythe Ultra Kaze 3000's, Delta's and San Aces would all cool the Radiator better. Whether you would see a temp difference I dont know, it depands on the heat load.


Also why don't you think the Excaliber will provide good static flow? In the specs they claim to have "outstanding high air pressure"?

Also the noise levels on those 3 fans you suggest are like jet turbines aren't they?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teaston*


Also why don't you think the Excaliber will provide good static flow? In the specs they claim to have "outstanding high air pressure"?

Also the noise levels on those 3 fans you suggest are like jet turbines aren't they?


It really depends on what your looking for Quiet or Performance.

If you want performance your going to need a Jet turbine.


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teaston*


Also why don't you think the Excaliber will provide good static flow? In the specs they claim to have "outstanding high air pressure"?


Those Excalibur fans are not good. I mean...holes in the frame? Really? CM can state whatever they want, fact of the matter is, it's a failed design as far as pressure goes.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teaston*


Noooo! the H50 is far better than high end air cooling as it comes out of the box, beats the hell out of my Zalman CNPS9700!

But when i said high end water cooling, what i really meant is entry level custom water coolers! As opposed to these sealed unit water coolers.

I agree theres no way an H50 will ever compete with the really expensive liquid cooling!!



H50 competes with high end air. It's not "far better" than it.


----------



## teaston

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ljason8eg* 
Those Excalibur fans are not good. I mean...holes in the frame? Really? CM can state whatever they want, fact of the matter is, it's a failed design as far as pressure goes.

H50 competes with high end air. It's not "far better" than it.

When I say it's far better than top end air coolers, i don't just mean the temps. When you take into consideration the noise difference (which is massive) The H50 is definately far better!
i.e. the H50 on full load is not much louder than high end air on idle!


----------



## ljason8eg

teaston said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ljason8eg*
> 
> When I say it's far better than top end air coolers, i don't just mean the temps. When you take into consideration the noise difference (which is massive) The H50 is definately far better!
> i.e. the H50 on full load is not much louder than high end air on idle!
> 
> Who says high end air has to be loud? You can easily get quiet fans.


----------



## bigdog320

okay whats up yall well most of yall may or may not know i built my first gaming rig on my own














as you can tell in my sig i'm running an core i5 750 stock speed on stock cooler well the clock speed isn't stock (lol that's when i overclock it to 3.1ghz on stock cpu cooler and vcore was 1.17v stable 9hours and 49 mins of prime95



































)

anyways back what i was going to say, now i run my computer for 24/7 almost and could i run the h50 for 24/7 on 4ghz if i get it and does anyone have a core i5 750 at 4ghz and running it 24/7 with h50 and what funs should i put with the h50 for the push and pull

thank you
chris

oh and also does core i5 run cooler or hotter then core i7


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bigdog320*


okay whats up yall well most of yall may or may not know i built my first gaming rig on my own














as you can tell in my sig i'm running an core i5 750 stock speed on stock cooler well the clock speed isn't stock (lol that's when i overclock it to 3.1ghz on stock cpu cooler and vcore was 1.17v stable 9hours and 49 mins of prime95



































)

anyways back what i was going to say, now i run my computer for 24/7 almost and could i run the h50 for 24/7 on 4ghz if i get it and does anyone have a core i5 750 at 4ghz and running it 24/7 with h50 and what funs should i put with the h50 for the push and pull

thank you
chris

oh and also does core i5 run cooler or hotter then core i7


You can run 24/7 and 4.0GHz. Easily done.

For fans, I'd personally get Scythe Gentle Typhoons.

i5 runs cooler than i7.


----------



## teaston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ljason8eg*


Who says high end air has to be loud? You can easily get quiet fans.


I suppose you can on some of them, you just couldn't on the 9700 (as far as i know)

Anyway, everyone has their own requirements. My Q9550 is oc'd nearly as far as it will go and the H50 stock keeps it cooler than it needs to be and with barely making any noise, & it's simple & cheap, so for me it is the perfect cooling solution and i love it!
A custom water loop or one of the latest high end air coolers just wouldn't give me any advantage.


----------



## Danny Boy

what temps am i going to be looking at with a delta 120mm as a pull for my h50 on a 550 unlocked and clocked to 3.725(my xiggy gets my 550 to about 29c-31c at idle)


----------



## bigdog320

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ljason8eg*


You can run 24/7 and 4.0GHz. Easily done.

For fans, I'd personally get Scythe Gentle Typhoons.

i5 runs cooler than i7.


okay thanks for the fans and can you give me a link for the fans i can't find them on egg site

omg i just read my own post i said funs for fans can you say typo


----------



## styckx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bigdog320*


okay whats up yall well most of yall may or may not know i built my first gaming rig on my own














as you can tell in my sig i'm running an core i5 750 stock speed on stock cooler well the clock speed isn't stock (lol that's when i overclock it to 3.1ghz on stock cpu cooler and vcore was 1.17v stable 9hours and 49 mins of prime95



































)

anyways back what i was going to say, now i run my computer for 24/7 almost and could i run the h50 for 24/7 on 4ghz if i get it and does anyone have a core i5 750 at 4ghz and running it 24/7 with h50 and what funs should i put with the h50 for the push and pull

thank you
chris

oh and also does core i5 run cooler or hotter then core i7


I've had my i5 750 up to 4ghz and it idled with the H50 at 37c roughly, load out running Intel Burn Test it got up to roughly 73c. So, yes you could run it 24/7 with an H50, just monitor your temps when stability testing it.

Personally I could careless about the 4ghz mark as a everyday 24/7 clock speed. Nothing I do would even benefit from it except maybe a few more FPS. So I rolled it back and leave it at 3.5ghz.


----------



## Darkstalker420

No worrys was just one of those hmmm i wonder thoughts just figured it would be "doable" (though i doubt to 24v like the fan) i remember you could get lower volts out of the ATX connector (14v was possible i think) but i read the article on fan "overclocking" years ago and can't remember now lol.

of course would probably kill the pump in the long run (depends on the v tolerance of the pump?) but seeing people performing all these mods on their H50 just had to throw it out there







.

Looking forward to being able to work in my PC with out some honking great tower heatsink dominating half me mobo!! (can't even remember what my ram looks like its under there somewhere!!).

Thanx.


----------



## bigdog320

Quote:



Originally Posted by *styckx*


I've had my i5 750 up to 4ghz and it idled with the H50 at 37c roughly, load out running Intel Burn Test it got up to roughly 73c. So, yes you could run it 24/7 with an H50, just monitor your temps when stability testing it.

Personally I could careless about the 4ghz mark as a everyday 24/7 clock speed. Nothing I do would even benefit from it except maybe a few more FPS. So I rolled it back and leave it at 3.5ghz.


okay cool now this being kinda an water cooling thing how long would the coolant last i hear someone said just throw it out of the window after 2-3years $80 out of the window




























i don't think so


----------



## styckx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bigdog320*


okay cool now this being kinda an water cooling thing how long would the coolant last i hear someone said just throw it out of the window after 2-3years $80 out of the window




























i don't think so

















It's warrantied for 2yrs, that's like 8.9 cents a day to own it. Really nothing, even after a year 18 cents a day. Most of us PC hobbyist get the itching for "something new" every 6 months or so anyway.

I'll personally be surprised if I own my H50 longer than a year. As I would assume Corsair will have a new version out within that time.


----------



## bigdog320

Quote:


Originally Posted by *styckx* 
It's warrantied for 2yrs, that's like 8.9 cents a day to own it. Really nothing, even after a year 18 cents a day. Most of us PC hobbyist get the itching for "something new" every 6 months or so anyway.

I'll personally be surprised if I own my H50 longer than a year. As I would assume Corsair will have a new version out within that time.

so after 2years it wont have no coolant?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bigdog320* 
so after 2years it wont have no coolant?

Ahhh, no, it just means your warranty is for 2 years. After 2 years, your on your own


----------



## DefecTalisman

I just took some screens of my overclock at 3.7ghz.

They can be seen here along with more pics of my setup ->http://cmss.dev.x10hosting.com/

9mins into prime95








2h30m in to prime I had to leave the house so I halted the workers
















starting to idle 1min later.








idle 30mins or so after.


----------



## bigdog320

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Ahhh, no, it just means your warranty is for 2 years. After 2 years, your on your own










what i want to know is how long will it last


----------



## fastsite

I have my qx6700 @ 3.5 ghz idle at 37C and load topping out on core #1 at 68. good cooler


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bigdog320*


what i want to know is how long will it last










It will last longer than you will have it. The tubing is made of double-lined steel-reinforced PVC and is ultra resistant to evaporating, mistreatment aside the H50 will not need filling for 5-6 years *at least*. It's a very robust unit designed for minumum maintenance.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bigdog320*


what i want to know is how long will it last










The unit has only been out for a year of so. As such, we dont have a long term history of the H50 and are going off anecdotal tales regarding longevity.

To date, there has been one confirmed, offical report of a leak - Corsair reportedly replaced the mobo and H50 of the user. Other failures have reportedly occured due to modding by the user...

From what Ive seen on this forum and others, its a pretty robust unit and does what its advertised to do.

Addit ~ Killhouse ninja's a reply ~ too quick for me man


----------



## Aqualoon

Totally random here guys (apologize for interrupting the ongoing conversation) but I reapplied the TIM, put in new fans for my entire case (including the push/pull fans) and my idle temps dropped from 39C to 35C...testing load now.


----------



## happysam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
Are you not running a rear exhaust also? with the top fan and a good rear fan I would think you should be fine... Measure what your input CFM is and what your output CFM is and try to make them equal if not having more on the output.

Nope, nine hundred two only has one rear fan space. I'll check the CFM values though, thanks for the tip!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
I actually had better temps exhausting than intaking. I suggest trying both ways. People tend to be getting very random results depending on the setup.

interesting! I guess experimentation is going to be key here. Thanks!

thinking of checking (and I'm not optimistic) if there's space between the side inlet and graphics card for one fan and the rad, or even a half-width fan & rad (then mounting pull fan outside) but i'm pretty sure there won't be any space(last thing to buy on this build is the GPU and HDDs).


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *happysam* 
Nope, nine hundred two only has one rear fan space. I'll check the CFM values though, thanks for the tip!

interesting! I guess experimentation is going to be key here. Thanks!

thinking of checking (and I'm not optimistic) if there's space between the side inlet and graphics card for one fan and the rad, or even a half-width fan & rad (then mounting pull fan outside) but i'm pretty sure there won't be any space(last thing to buy on this build is the GPU and HDDs).

That would be in interesting place to mount it. But yes, testing and experimentation is key here


----------



## happysam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
That would be in interesting place to mount it. But yes, testing and experimentation is key here









yeah it's just a thaught, *space permitting* it would b tricky to get everything attached and would make access a bit more troublesome, but being able to have top and rear exhaust, AND additional airflow over the GPU might make it worthwile.


----------



## styckx

Getting the H50 as a front intake on the 902 will require some work for me as my 5870 is just killing a easier move. I may just forget about it as my temps are fine. I'm all for breaking out tools and doing some mods, but not unless it's going to actually produce results other than a degree or two, which I doubt it will.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

The rad and fan will not fit on the side panel. Not to mention that the gpu is warm so even warmer air will be flowing trough the rad. Either make it exhaust or intake using the rear fan. Or try and zip-tie it in the front. <-- this works, I did it before my mod


----------



## happysam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *styckx* 
I'm all for breaking out tools and doing some mods, but not unless it's going to actually produce results other than a degree or two, which I doubt it will.

I definately agree on that. ah well, back to waiting and obsessing until next pay









EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
The rad and fan will not fit on the side panel. Not to mention that the gpu is warm so even warmer air will be flowing trough the rad. Either make it exhaust or intake using the rear fan. Or try and zip-tie it in the front. <-- this works, I did it before my mod

Cheers - hadn't measured it yet.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aqualoon*


Totally random here guys (apologize for interrupting the ongoing conversation) but I reapplied the TIM, put in new fans for my entire case (including the push/pull fans) and my idle temps dropped from 39C to 35C...testing load now.


Thats a nice gain!

What TIM and which fans? Enquiring minds need to know









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*

I actually had better temps exhausting than intaking. I suggest trying both ways. People tend to be getting very random results depending on the setup.


And the time of the year. Intake generally better in the cooler months, exhaust in the warmer ones... thats been my experience anyway


----------



## Aqualoon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Thats a nice gain!

What TIM and which fans? Enquiring minds need to know










I have two load temps, a gaming load and a folding load.

*Gaming Load*
Previous Temp: 47C
New Temp: 44C

*Folding Load*
Previous Temp: 55C
New Temp: 51C

Went over to Xigmatek fans - everything but my front intake (I seriously thought it was a 120mm intake and it's actually a 140mm intake







). Added another 120mm front intake and then reapplied the Shin-Etsu X23 TIM. Course I could probably shave another degree or two by finding a better TIM...which I may do as I'm rather happy with these temps and might save some cash and not even do a single full water cooling loop.


----------



## Killhouse

It depends a lot on case airflow. I cant wait to flip the 55mm Feser 122 on my radiator around and try it in pull setup - from what I hear I should get better temperatures. Just need the screws.


----------



## Prugor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


It depends a lot on case airflow. I cant wait to flip the 55mm Feser 122 on my radiator around and try it in pull setup - from what I hear I should get better temperatures. Just need the screws.


I just installed two Feser 55m mid speed. I bought from boltdepot.com 4x 6x32 by 2 1/2 and they worked great. They just needed two washers so you dont bend those fins. I needed four more, so I went to Lowes and the only ones they had that were close were 3 inch long ones. So I bought those and a package of washers and nuts. 2 nuts, 2 washers with a kama bay rafter and they worked great. I also bought 2x Kama Bay Intakes and put those in the six unused slots I have on the front of my case.

Just got done doing intelburn test and the highest it got up to was 47C. Prime95 for 15 minutes it was 45C. Stock clock.

Pix when i find my other usb upload cable, the dog ate it like 15 minutes ago.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *happysam*


yeah it's just a thaught, *space permitting* it would b tricky to get everything attached and would make access a bit more troublesome, but being able to have top and rear exhaust, AND additional airflow over the GPU might make it worthwile.


That would be cool, but as stated, might warm up your GPU's more. Tricky move to do it there, then tubing length might not allow to open side panel for easy access.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *styckx*


Getting the H50 as a front intake on the 902 will require some work for me as my 5870 is just killing a easier move. I may just forget about it as my temps are fine. I'm all for breaking out tools and doing some mods, but not unless it's going to actually produce results other than a degree or two, which I doubt it will.


If temps are fine I wouldn't go through the hassle, probably you won't get much gains.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Thats a nice gain!

What TIM and which fans? Enquiring minds need to know









And the time of the year. Intake generally better in the cooler months, exhaust in the warmer ones... thats been my experience anyway










Thanks for sharing your experience, interesting.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
It depends a lot on case airflow. I cant wait to flip the 55mm Feser 122 on my radiator around and try it in pull setup - from what I hear I should get better temperatures. Just need the screws.

Hey KH... that MOTM icon looks good on you man


----------



## PaulWog

My h50 airflow diagram is listed below. I have my h50 running in exhaust and it works wonderfully.


----------



## happysam

Hey thanks everyone for your advice!
Based on what I can see, I'll be going for rear fan setup, and have a bit of a play with flow direction and speeds for the other fans before I try modding anything - hopefully it'll all be stable with that alone.

Thanks again, I'll be back when done!


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *happysam*


Hey thanks everyone for your advice!
Based on what I can see, I'll be going for rear fan setup, and have a bit of a play with flow direction and speeds for the other fans before I try modding anything - hopefully it'll all be stable with that alone.

Thanks again, I'll be back when done!


Yeah man good choice, same as me, idle 37c load 59c!

Personally there has been alot of talk about fans, and the CM Excalibur, or what ever, i agree with what was said before about the holes in the frame...EPIC FAIL.

THESE are the quietest/fastest fans i can find, and i have 4 on the way to me today!! the sound/static/airflow are simply great!

What do you guys think, you betting its going to effect my temps?


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PaulWog*


My h50 airflow diagram is listed below. I have my h50 running in exhaust and it works wonderfully.


Nice setup there, I like it







.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Prugor* 
I just installed two Feser 55m mid speed. I bought from boltdepot.com 4x 6x32 by 2 1/2 and they worked great. They just needed two washers so you dont bend those fins. I needed four more, so I went to Lowes and the only ones they had that were close were 3 inch long ones. So I bought those and a package of washers and nuts. 2 nuts, 2 washers with a kama bay rafter and they worked great. I also bought 2x Kama Bay Intakes and put those in the six unused slots I have on the front of my case.

Just got done doing intelburn test and the highest it got up to was 47C. Prime95 for 15 minutes it was 45C. Stock clock.

Pix when i find my other usb upload cable, the dog ate it like 15 minutes ago.

Sweet, I know which screws I need. It's just a matter of getting around to ordering them









Looking forward to seeing how Push/Pull goes because these fans amaze me


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Sweet, I know which screws I need. It's just a matter of getting around to ordering them









Looking forward to seeing how Push/Pull goes because these fans amaze me









Those Triebwerk's are nice but my problem is that for a push/pull on my radiator it would be Â£99.32 for the four fans with postage. Also, I would want the high speed versions that I cant seem anywhere, looks like they dont make high speeds according to the feser site. Damn nice fans though.

Going to have to stick with these dieing AC Ryan's pushing and an Ultra Kaze 3000 and a ADDA 2200 RPM pulling. Temps are also good enough for me and current clock. Been folding quite alot recently, these SMP work units really get the heat pumping.

Edit:

On a side note, does anybody know of any powerful 140mm fans?


----------



## Killhouse

They are not cheap, and no, their midspeed is the fastest version they have. But it's more than fast enough! Your fans sounds pretty good too though.

OT: Just got my folding and MOTM postbit *cheer*


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


They are not cheap, and no, their midspeed is the fastest version they have. But it's more than fast enough! Your fans sounds pretty good too though.

OT: Just got my folding and MOTM postbit *cheer*


Ok well maybe in the future but i cant see my self spending Â£90 on four fans when I could easily get a second brand new 4770 for that and one or two other things.

The fans im currently using are ok, air moves.

Also, MOTM is wicked, nice job.









Edit: You might be interested to know that EK have made waterblocks for our motherboards. You can buy them on their site.


----------



## Killhouse

Totally fair enough, it was hard on the pocket even for just one of those fans! Cant really recommend any 140mm fans as I dont know any, you might find some stuff in the rest of the WC section since 140mm radiators are quite common.

I'm already designing my next project which is why I havnt been active around here, looks like everyone is getting on alright though


----------



## Aqualoon

Checked my temps as I was walking out the door this morning, after 9 hours of folding and still doing so my temps were at 46C









So I was at 53C while folding and went down to 46C -- huzzah! I think I may save myself some $$$ and *NOT* do a custom CPU water loop.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Totally fair enough, it was hard on the pocket even for just one of those fans! Cant really recommend any 140mm fans as I dont know any, you might find some stuff in the rest of the WC section since 140mm radiators are quite common.

I'm already designing my next project which is why I havnt been active around here, looks like everyone is getting on alright though










Might ask over there, see what they come up with.

Also, any chance of sneek peak of this new project? Sounds like this new one could be even better.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aqualoon*


Checked my temps as I was walking out the door this morning, after 9 hours of folding and still doing so my temps were at 46C









So I was at 53C while folding and went down to 46C -- huzzah! I think I may save myself some $$$ and *NOT* do a custom CPU water loop.


Thats good, is that with your CPU at full load?


----------



## Aqualoon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Thats good, is that with your CPU at full load?


I call that max load - I break it up into two - Gaming Load and Folding Load. My folding load has always been a good 5-7C higher then my gaming load. Previously before putting in new fans and re-seating the cooler my folding load was 53C and my gaming load 46C. I was going to invest in a single water cooling loop to get my folding load down as my PC is always doing something IE if not gaming then folding. But with these temps I really don't feel the need to spend the money.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Might ask over there, see what they come up with.
Also, any chance of sneek peak of this new project? Sounds like this new one could be even better.










Using a Zotac ION ATOM N330 Dual core system, with PicoPSU, small form factor HD and SSD, DDR2 RAM. All in a custom case measuring 200mmx200mmx120mm, cooled by a slimline 120x12mm fan.
Just struggling to find a good PSU in the UK at the moment, and then I will start applying for sponsorship.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Using a Zotac ION ATOM N330 Dual core system, with PicoPSU, small form factor HD and SSD, DDR2 RAM. All in a custom case measuring 200mmx200mmx120mm, cooled by a slimline 120x12mm fan.
Just struggling to find a good PSU in the UK at the moment, and then I will start applying for sponsorship.


















Wow thats small, looks like it could be decently powerful and not too badly priced kit.

After looking at more fans, I like the look of these Yate loons: here.


----------



## rickyman0319

i want to know if i want to build WC system. will my x2 PII 550 (B50 x4 cpu 3.1ghz) temp be the same as if i build a H50 or not?

H50 - idle 27-30 degrees load 48-52 degrees (75 degrees room temp)

i just want to know you guys know that i mod H50 that i have a resviour on my H50.

my setup is fan-shourd-rad-shroud-fan.


----------



## bigdog320

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
It will last longer than you will have it. The tubing is made of double-lined steel-reinforced PVC and is ultra resistant to evaporating, mistreatment aside the H50 will not need filling for 5-6 years *at least*. It's a very robust unit designed for minumum maintenance.

okay thanks bro







i may just get it then i be moving lil over 300 miles away will i live now







and plus i really don't trust a 2lb "Noctua NH-D14" cpu cooler on my motherboard this is why im getting this so yeah

and also are Noctua fans any good for the h50 or are they just good for anything if you get what im saying airflow wise i was thinking about taking out all my fans out and put some Noctua fans in my case all i have is AZZA fans







that came with my AZZA Solano 1000 case


----------



## teaston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


Personally there has been alot of talk about fans, and the CM Excalibur, or what ever, i agree with what was said before about the holes in the frame...EPIC FAIL.


Why is everyone bashing the CM Excaliber before anyone has tried one out?
I'm starting to worry that i've made a bad choice ordering one!
I don't think it will be much good as a pull fan as it will also pull air through the side holes, but i'm going to using as a push fan, which quoted specs of 85cfm & 3.53 mmH2O static pressure at 30db looks pretty good doesn't it?


----------



## teaston

Oh and if anyone is struggling to find screws for these, i don't know if this has been said before, but UK electrical socket fascia screws fit!

They are slot head & counter sunk but they do the job. Obviously make sure they're not much longer than 30mm or you'll damage your rad fins!


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rickyman0319* 
i want to know if i want to build WC system. will my x2 PII 550 (B50 x4 cpu 3.1ghz) temp be the same as if i build a H50 or not?

H50 - idle 27-30 degrees load 48-52 degrees (75 degrees room temp)

i just want to know you guys know that i mod H50 that i have a resviour on my H50.

my setup is fan-shourd-rad-shroud-fan.

When I was running a stock H50 my temps were the same as yours. With this loop my load temps are the same as your idle temp.

Will it allow you to overclock further? Unlikely, your unlocked core are what will be holding you back.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bigdog320* 
okay thanks bro







i may just get it then i be moving lil over 300 miles away will i live now







and plus i really don't trust a 2lb "Noctua NH-D14" cpu cooler on my motherboard this is why im getting this so yeah

and also are Noctua fans any good for the h50 or are they just good for anything if you get what im saying airflow wise i was thinking about taking out all my fans out and put some Noctua fans in my case all i have is AZZA fans







that came with my AZZA Solano 1000 case

Form what i've learnt, Noctua fans are quiet and for people who want silence will alittle bit of air move ment.

Also they seem to be rather expensive but its upto you.


----------



## rzs77

Put me in the club too


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
Put me in the club too


















holy **** how long did that take you lmao


----------



## PCSarge

i see willy xD


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
holy **** how long did that take you lmao

Lol! 3 days









Having problem though. it increased my temps.
got idle temps of 40-42c before, now they are 43-44c









any ideas? the rad perhaps?


----------



## rickyman0319

i am wondering does it really matters at all if i am one rad or two rad on watercooler system?


----------



## bigdog320

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


When I was running a stock H50 my temps were the same as yours. With this loop my load temps are the same as your idle temp.

Will it allow you to overclock further? Unlikely, your unlocked core are what will be holding you back.

Form what i've learnt, Noctua fans are quiet and for people who want silence will alittle bit of air move ment.

Also they seem to be rather expensive but its upto you.


okay umm what about COOLER MASTER R4 are they good,


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PaulWog*


My h50 airflow diagram is listed below. I have my h50 running in exhaust and it works wonderfully.


Very good, thanks for sharing that with us


----------



## yellowtoblerone

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rzs77*


Lol! 3 days









Having problem though. it increased my temps.
got idle temps of 40-42c before, now they are 43-44c









any ideas? the rad perhaps?


More water sometimes do not decrease idle temp. However it should help in stressed temps. It could also be that your pump can't handle the flow with increase in tube diameter.


----------



## squiggly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Oh, okay... the temps are still a tad suss. They appear not to have moved much









Unless, it is correct... can you pls post your Linpark results from OCCT. thanks

Welcome and enjoy the house of fun











Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Looks like broken core temp sensors to me. There is a low temp below which it will not go (one of my cores is like that too). Also unresponsive to temp increases (my broken core only reads high temp properly in linpack, not in prime95). Strange that it's all 4 cores though, what are the chances of that. My broken core barely budges from 37*.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


squig, i'm running a 43% OC on my E7400 (from 2.8 ghz stock up to 4GHZ) so its probably possible to push about 50% as my temps sit pretty low (soo low the temp sensors r busted and dont drop below 41







)


Now running a push/pull exhaust config with Scythe Gentle Typhoons and the idle is still 36-36-37-37. So either the cores won`t read lower or the MB.









Quick check on load temps with IntelBurn has dropped and it is warmer today than any other lately.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rzs77* 
Lol! 3 days









Having problem though. it increased my temps.
got idle temps of 40-42c before, now they are 43-44c










any ideas? the rad perhaps?

More details please. What are you running your 965 C3 at (ghz and voltages)? I can tell you that my 965 C3 at 3.8 ghz 1.3 volts runs 27C idles and 43 C max after 3 hours of Prime 95 blended test. Something was wrong even before your mod.


----------



## Danny Boy

quick question, would 2 120mm r4's in a push/pull work better then a single 120mm delta?


----------



## buste2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Danny Boy*


quick question, would 2 120mm r4's in a push/pull work better then a single 120mm delta?


I tried a single setup and push/pull and it was night and day. I've messing around with it all day. I'm idling at 36ish now. When I was using a single fan, I was idling at 43ish. All I really did was add another fan. I will remount to make sure. I believe if you go push/pull with the R4's will be more effective and quiet. I've never used delta but aren't they loud?


----------



## Danny Boy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *buste2*


I tried a single setup and push/pull and it was night and day. I've messing around with it all day. I'm idling at 36ish now. When I was using a single fan, I was idling at 43ish. All I really did was add another fan. I will remount to make sure. I believe if you go push/pull with the R4's will be more effective and quiet. I've never used delta but aren't they loud?


yea but the delta itself has more CFM then the 2 r4's added together


----------



## NoahDiamond

I just found out my H50 is leaking... badly.

It is now almost empty. This might be because of the number of times I have installed and uninstalled it. Not sure, but it is definitely dead.

The computer still works, but I am on limp home mode with an old Solid Copper Quad Heat Pipe Hyper 48+. I plan on getting a new H50 tomorrow.


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Danny Boy* 
quick question, would 2 120mm r4's in a push/pull work better then a single 120mm delta?

The single Delta will work better. Far far more static pressure.


----------



## NoahDiamond

I don't have the time to read through nearly 600 pages of posts. I can read long posts, but not 600 pages. Can anyone tell me how many of the Corsair H50 water blocks have failed? Even if it's a percentage guess.

I want to know the chances of my new Corsair H50 leaking.


----------



## ExperimentX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NoahDiamond*


I don't have the time to read through nearly 600 pages of posts. I can read long posts, but not 600 pages. Can anyone tell me how many of the Corsair H50 water blocks have failed? Even if it's a percentage guess.

I want to know the chances of my new Corsair H50 leaking.


There was 1 incident where it happened, and Corsair replaced the guys entire system.

Its safe.


----------



## PCSarge

its about a 1% chance in a million units that a leak happens i believe, if you tried to mod it, you will not get corsair replacement parts, for you have voided your warranty, where exactly is it leaking from?


----------



## rzs77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone*


More water sometimes do not decrease idle temp. However it should help in stressed temps. It could also be that your pump can't handle the flow with increase in tube diameter.


Used the exact same 1/4" ID tubes. Maybe the radiator is too big, I'm going to change it back to the stock and see where that takes me









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


More details please. What are you running your 965 C3 at (ghz and voltages)? I can tell you that my 965 C3 at 3.8 ghz 1.3 volts runs 27C idles and 43 C max after 3 hours of Prime 95 blended test. Something was wrong even before your mod.










YEAH...I LIVE IN MALAYSIA!!! Haha! The ambient temp is about 31c here! So i don't really see how i can go lower









Anyway, everything is at stock. Haven't overclocked yet. I reset my bios so yeah...stock...


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NoahDiamond*


I just found out my H50 is leaking... badly.

It is now almost empty. This might be because of the number of times I have installed and uninstalled it. Not sure, but it is definitely dead.

The computer still works, but I am on limp home mode with an old Solid Copper Quad Heat Pipe Hyper 48+. I plan on getting a new H50 tomorrow.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *NoahDiamond*


I don't have the time to read through nearly 600 pages of posts. I can read long posts, but not 600 pages. Can anyone tell me how many of the Corsair H50 water blocks have failed? Even if it's a percentage guess.

I want to know the chances of my new Corsair H50 leaking.


Corsair warranty and customer service is great, if the unit is not modded, they will replace it. I've only heard of about one or if I remember correctly two that have gone bad. That's a very low # if you ask me.


----------



## pcnuttie

Now that snow is here again.. which sucks. I wanna see one of you show us temps how low and cold it can go?







AC counts!







lol.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Now that snow is here again.. which sucks. I wanna see one of you show us temps how low and cold it can go?







AC counts!







lol.


Miami, not the coolest place on earth. But here is my try









Factory Corsair Fan

Idle: 31Âºc









Load: 38Âºc


----------



## Willhemmens

The coldest i ever had was 12'c with the H50, 8'c with this loop and 4'c with a Zalman cnps 9700 allowing me to bench my 720 BE at 4.25GHz.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


The coldest i ever had was 12'c with the H50, 8'c with this loop and 4'c with a Zalman cnps 9700 allowing me to bench my 720 BE at 4.25GHz.


What were the ambient temps then?


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


What were the ambient temps then?


Colder than the US for sure! I was about to ask how he pulled 12c on his modded H50, then I realized he was in the UK.

I remember back in 2005 I went over there to stay with some friends, and it was June-July, and they were having a "heat-wave." They looked like they were dying, and it was only a whopping 70 degrees!!!


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
What were the ambient temps then?


Didnt have a thermometer at the time but the car reported between -5 and -8.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
Colder than the US for sure! I was about to ask how he pulled 12c on his modded H50, then I realized he was in the UK.

I remember back in 2005 I went over there to stay with some friends, and it was June-July, and they were having a "heat-wave." They looked like they were dying, and it was only a whopping 70 degrees!!!









Im real bad with heat, the odd warm days nice but I just cant take real heat.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
Colder than the US for sure! I was about to ask how he pulled 12c on his modded H50, then I realized he was in the UK.

I remember back in 2005 I went over there to stay with some friends, and it was June-July, and they were having a "heat-wave." They looked like they were dying, and it was only a whopping 70 degrees!!!










Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Didnt have a thermometer at the time but the car reported between -5 and -8.

Im real bad with heat, the odd warm days nice but I just cant take real heat.

Maybe I should live there, i think 70Âºf is hot







I love the cold though. But yeah -5 or -8 is too cold LOL


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Danny Boy*


quick question, would 2 120mm r4's in a push/pull work better then a single 120mm delta?



Decide for yourself. Some fan tests here.


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*



Decide for yourself. Some fan tests here.


What's to decide? They all the same?


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
What's to decide? They all the same?

Obviously they are very similar. Maybe you want to spend a little more time analyzing the differences. All tests were done outside the case to rule out case airflow differences affecting the test.


----------



## sintricate

I just reinstalled my h50 with an ultrakaze3k with shroud and a some 2,000RPM thermaltake fan I had that moves a lot of air and is almost as loud as the ultrakaze lol.

I was wondering, which works better when used with higher ambient temps, water or air coolers?


----------



## teaston

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


Colder than the US for sure! I was about to ask how he pulled 12c on his modded H50, then I realized he was in the UK.

I remember back in 2005 I went over there to stay with some friends, and it was June-July, and they were having a "heat-wave." They looked like they were dying, and it was only a whopping 70 degrees!!!










I think your getting confused!







85 degrees maybe!

But yea it's cooler here than Florida, the heat there is just relentless!


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rzs77*


Used the exact same 1/4" ID tubes. Maybe the radiator is too big, I'm going to change it back to the stock and see where that takes me









YEAH...I LIVE IN MALAYSIA!!! Haha! The ambient temp is about 31c here! So i don't really see how i can go lower









Anyway, everything is at stock. Haven't overclocked yet. I reset my bios so yeah...stock...


Never mind then....for a 31 C ambient your temps are just fine.


----------



## Magus2727

Just got Tax returns in... WOHOOO Ordering my H50!


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Obviously they are very similar. Maybe you want to spend a little more time analyzing the differences. All tests were done outside the case to rule out case airflow differences affecting the test.


I do believe you tested them very well, but 1 deg difference over the whole range is pretty much the same to me









Why did you not include the GT's in that test?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sintricate*


I was wondering, which works better when used with higher ambient temps, water or air coolers?


I believe air cooling can have a negative effect with high ambient temps, while water cooling stays 'true' to ambient. IOW with water cooling, on a cold day with 10 deg ambient and you get say 50 max core temp, on a very hot day with a 35 deg ambient, you will expect the max temp to be 75 deg.

From my tests (and they have been up to 36 deg ambient) the H50 stays true to this as well.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Miami, not the coolest place on earth. But here is my try









Factory Corsair Fan

Idle: 31Âºc









Load: 38Âºc










This may be a dumb question but if you have a 965 C3 and are running at stock then why is your voltage 1.4??


----------



## sotorious

People with 25 to 28c or higher ambient temps, can you post your idle and load temps?


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


I do believe you tested them very well, but 1 deg difference over the whole range is pretty much the same to me










Don't quite know why that is. Linpack generates a lot of heat on my o/c cpu. Maybe it's hitting the limit of heat transfer either at the block or at the rad. Lesser fans will show higher temps though.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


Why did you not include the GT's in that test?


I did. Very first chart in that sequence.


----------



## NoahDiamond

I just went to CompUsa and grabbed a new one. It wasn't spraying coolant everywhere... just leaking. I'm so thankful that I live literally almost next door to a CompUsa/Tiger Direct/System store that stocks these things.

The new system is setup with the lines having the least amount of bend possible. It is working great again. In fact, I feel this CPU cooler is working better than the first one I had. Maybe they revised it, or maybe mine had a manufacturing flaw. Either way, temps are lower. Idle temps are the same, but peak temps are lower. It's on a pull/push setup, taking air from the outside, since my NZXT Tempest case has the two 140MM fans up top to vent the heat.

Stability is mine again!

I am thinking about returning the old unit directly to CompUsa with the new receipt saying the new one is leaking, but I kinda feel that may be unethical. It's not like I NEED two of these things. I suppose I could just have Corsair replace mine under warranty and keep it as a spare, or possibly sell it.

What do you all think I should do?


----------



## rzs77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Never mind then....for a 31 C ambient your temps are just fine.










Yeah, i thought so too. It's just that the temps were better when i used the stock radiator and didn't do any mods to the H50. Any thoughts? A friend here said that the 240 radiator might be restrictive. what do u guys think?

I'll be dissecting the H50 again tomorrow. I'll use the original radiator back with the reservoir. I hope i can get better results.


----------



## rzs77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NoahDiamond*


I just went to CompUsa and grabbed a new one. It wasn't spraying coolant everywhere... just leaking. I'm so thankful that I live literally almost next door to a CompUsa/Tiger Direct/System store that stocks these things.

The new system is setup with the lines having the least amount of bend possible. It is working great again. In fact, I feel this CPU cooler is working better than the first one I had. Maybe they revised it, or maybe mine had a manufacturing flaw. Either way, temps are lower. Idle temps are the same, but peak temps are lower. It's on a pull/push setup, taking air from the outside, since my NZXT Tempest case has the two 140MM fans up top to vent the heat.

Stability is mine again!

I am thinking about returning the old unit directly to CompUsa with the new receipt saying the new one is leaking, but I kinda feel that may be unethical. It's not like I NEED two of these things. I suppose I could just have Corsair replace mine under warranty and keep it as a spare, or possibly sell it.

What do you all think I should do?


Sell it to me for really2 cheap!!! Hahaha! just want the radiator. Since my experiment with a 240 rad is kinda showing bad results, i would like to see what 2x120 rad might do









Can u? U've already got a replacement


----------



## xXgamerzXx

I just got a new H50 and i'm loving it! It's a huge improvement over some other air cooling that i've had before. Allows me to reach a much higher overclock.

Now that CPU cooling is solved, time to find a way to cool my NB from 70+ to something lower...


----------



## Magus2727

Looking at your Avatar pic... what would house do? Return the old one as new....


----------



## NoahDiamond

The radiator appears to be fine. The leaks seem to be coming from where the hose meets the radiator.

If someone wants to buy it, $50 via paypal plus ground shipping. What are you guys willing to pay for it? The pump works fine and the radiator is intact. Worst case scenario, you just RMA it with Corsair and get a brand new one. I will include the original receipt.


----------



## NoahDiamond

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
Looking at your Avatar pic... what would house do? Return the old one as new....

House would, I am sure of it. I have a bit more of a moral encompass, but not much more.

I would feel better either RMAing it with Corsair, or selling it to someone else so they can RMA it for a brand new unit.

Then again... WWHD?


----------



## Magus2727

or a combination, RMA it, its then a good unit and return it. Its a fully functional unit, they can resell it like many Box Stores do.


----------



## whoisron

hey guys is the only way to use speedcontrol fan setting for the radiator fans if you use a y cable splitter for push/pull setup by cutting 1 of the yellow wires on 1 of the fans?







is there anyway other than having to cut a wire? I guess I can plug them into two seperate spots in the motherboard but the wire has to travel towards the ram slots and I don't really like that.









do any of you have your fan speed controlled? did you opt to cut one of the wires or what method did you guys use?

thanks!


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xXgamerzXx*


I just got a new H50 and i'm loving it! It's a huge improvement over some other air cooling that i've had before. Allows me to reach a much higher overclock.

Now that CPU cooling is solved, time to find a way to cool my NB from 70+ to something lower...


You have a NB block? Just do what I did in my H50 mod, and include the NB in the loop


----------



## Iroh

Quote:



Originally Posted by *whoisron*


hey guys is the only way to use speedcontrol fan setting for the radiator fans if you use a y cable splitter for push/pull setup by cutting 1 of the yellow wires on 1 of the fans?







is there anyway other than having to cut a wire? I guess I can plug them into two seperate spots in the motherboard but the wire has to travel towards the ram slots and I don't really like that.









do any of you have your fan speed controlled? did you opt to cut one of the wires or what method did you guys use?

thanks!


I just control the push fan and leave the [antec 3-way] pull on low, since the pull fan spins somewhat faster than the push at idle but a wee bit slower at full tilt.

On my old computer I tied two fans to the controller by:
-strip some insulation on power/ground of fan #1
-cut connector from fan #2, and cut off rpm wire (not used)
-solder and tape the exposed power and ground ends of fan#2 to the exposed wires of fan#1

Both fans speed controlled with rpm readings from just one.

The kicker is if your fan controller supports the amps or not...

Wait, they make y-splitters for 3pin?


----------



## NoahDiamond

I am having stability problems. I am concerned about where coolant may have landed that could cause corrosion or shorts. Would a can of electronics cleaner take care of that?

Please let me know, as I don't know how long the radiator was leaking. I am hoping my 5970, CPU and memory are ok. I think the motherboard may have been damaged by the coolant or by overworking it. I was running the 5970 on a DFI Lanparty UT X48 t2r. I had the GT 240 Physx card installed in the 16X slot. Do you think I may have caused damage to the board? I think the 5970 is working fine, but when I overclock, I have to bump the PCI Express for stability in booting and operations.

Is it possible that coolant landed somewhere that I cannot see, and if so, I would really like to know how to clean it off before it becomes severe. It was not a major leak. I just removed the back plate of my 5970, and I see slight corrosion. Will electronics cleaner take that off?


----------



## gus

Quote:


Originally Posted by *whoisron* 
hey guys is the only way to use speedcontrol fan setting for the radiator fans if you use a y cable splitter for push/pull setup by cutting 1 of the yellow wires on 1 of the fans?







is there anyway other than having to cut a wire? I guess I can plug them into two seperate spots in the motherboard but the wire has to travel towards the ram slots and I don't really like that.









do any of you have your fan speed controlled? did you opt to cut one of the wires or what method did you guys use?

thanks!

i use a fan controller . no wire cutting just power and connect the fan connector http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-808-_-Product


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Iroh*


I just control the push fan and leave the [antec 3-way] pull on low, since the pull fan spins somewhat faster than the push at idle but a wee bit slower at full tilt.

On my old computer I tied two fans to the controller by:
-strip some insulation on power/ground of fan #1
-cut connector from fan #2, and cut off rpm wire (not used)
-solder and tape the exposed power and ground ends of fan#2 to the exposed wires of fan#1

Both fans speed controlled with rpm readings from just one.

The kicker is if your fan controller supports the amps or not...

Wait, they make y-splitters for 3pin?










Yeah, I bought 2 of them from MicroCenter for I think $3.50 a piece.


----------



## ritchwell

Hey guys been a while since i posted here, got a couple of question. Well a little update was done on my h50, before my setup with the h50 was 1 corsair push fan and 1 thermalright(from a TRUE) pull fan flow direction is intake, and Mx 2 TIM. I never had great temps with this setup mid 80 to high 80's with oc 4.2 and 1.34v on my cpu running linX all maxed. I always wanted to just buy the coolermaster R4 red led fan for the push and pull config to keep the fans the same. So a couple of weeks ago I bought the coolermaster fans and OCZ freeze TIM and attach everything once I received my shipment. Last week everything arrived and was very excited, took about 1hour of my time to uninstall assembly, clean cpu, apply paste and reinstall with new fans. I fired up my computer and ran linX and was very dissappointed due to no change of my results same temps, was so upset that i was about to buy the venomous x but remembered the reason why I bought the h50 was because it was quite and didn't want the wife to complain about the noise level of the air cooler. Anyways this was the suprise of it all after a couple of days I was going to lower the clock speed since it has been getting warmer here in NJ, so I ran LinX again to see what my temps are with my original clock speed of 4.2. Now I was getting 5-7 C lower temps (temps are 75-82C) even with ambien temps has increase in my room.

I know the ocz freeze has no cure time, but a couple of days later my temps had significant drop. Has anyone experience this?


----------



## marl

^ My experience was the same. Idle temps stood the same, if not maybe a 1c-2c drop. Load dropped at least 5-8. Even though my room gets hot throughout the day during hot days. That alone with load temps dropping 5-8c when it's extremely warm compared to my TRUE is what I was looking at. Otherwise it would be hitting the 70's with it.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NoahDiamond*


I am having stability problems. I am concerned about where coolant may have landed that could cause corrosion or shorts. Would a can of electronics cleaner take care of that?

Please let me know, as I don't know how long the radiator was leaking. I am hoping my 5970, CPU and memory are ok. I think the motherboard may have been damaged by the coolant or by overworking it. I was running the 5970 on a DFI Lanparty UT X48 t2r. I had the GT 240 Physx card installed in the 16X slot. Do you think I may have caused damage to the board? I think the 5970 is working fine, but when I overclock, I have to bump the PCI Express for stability in booting and operations.

Is it possible that coolant landed somewhere that I cannot see, and if so, I would really like to know how to clean it off before it becomes severe. It was not a major leak. I just removed the back plate of my 5970, and I see slight corrosion. Will electronics cleaner take that off?


What fluid were you using? I would remove the board from the case and take a close look at it and try to clean it with elec cleaner or with some alcohol. I did that to my E758a while back and it worked fine. However about 8 months down the line I had a RAM slot go, but I don't think it was because of that.


----------



## thebigrobbyrob

woot! installed mine the other day


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ritchwell* 
I know the ocz freeze has no cure time, but a couple of days later my temps had significant drop. Has anyone experience this?

The same thing happened to me using MX2 TIM. After about 2 weeks my temps suddenly dropped a good three to four degrees across the board and have stayed that way. I was quite amazed. Members here have said that temps go down aftr TIM has a chance to redistibute itself more evenly (i.e redistribute not cure). Idle is now 8 degrees C above ambient and max temp is 24 C above ambient. Nice


----------



## harrison

my folding temps with my new h50 i got a 10c drop


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *harrison* 
my folding temps with my new h50 i got a 10c drop









Nice!

Also nice to see someone did what I did with my HAF, and paint the HAF white!







classy.


----------



## Swoosh19

Hi thread
i added myself to list as instructed on page 1..will be posting pics soon...


----------



## Nolander

I just installed my H50 and I am enjoying the results.

Recently my TRUE has been unable to keep my Q6600 temps under 70 C and I was forced to decrease my OC to 3.2 Ghz. Now with my H50 I am once again able to achieve 3.6 Ghz with my first quad core processor. I followed the instructions that came with the unit and I am presently pulling air into the case with the two CoolerMaster Red LED (2000 rpm, 90CFM, 19 dBA) fans. My temps have decreased by approximately 11 degrees C. Of course I have re-arranged some of the fans which are now used as exhaust. I have the Coolermaster H50 fans as intake as well as the side window fan, and I have the top 200 mm and two front 120 mm as exhaust.

Here are my results (Keep in mind I am pushing 1.45 Vcore) :

Load










Idle


----------



## ericeod

I just placed an order for the H50 after deciding to move to a smaller case (need the rooom). Lets see if it can match my Push/Pull Megahalem setup!


----------



## killer01ws6

Add Me Killhouse, I have read this entire thread.. :LONG: lol
I have noticed several folks really giving some good info and help.....
I see many of the same questions asked as folks don't read, but that is normal ha..

I love the H50, I had to change my Mobo due to lan failure, I put freeze on it and it just don't seem to be as cool as it was before.. but I had a bad 5870 also so my temps looked good with one 5870 and the H50 as intake... now I have Crossfire and not the stock tim and I am just not happy hitting 83C trying to get back to the 4.2 I got before on the orig board and missing one of my 5870s..

SO, I have a pair of S-FLEX SFF21F(1600rpM) fans so I can do a Push Pull exhaust. I know my case has high flow and think I will do better with a push pull out instead of pulling the heat from those two 5870s back into my case plus the heat of the H50s radiator.
I also picked up MASSCOOL|G751 Newegg's version of shin-etsu thermal.

I'll post up some pics and results when it is all complete


----------



## stewroids

Hey guys, I'm new to the forums and I'm planning to switch my CM V8 to a H50. Has anybody switched from a V8 -> H50 and seen a difference in temperatures?

Also, I'm using a HAF 932 with stock fans, and trying to decide what the best push/pull position is. I was thinking of exhausting oppose to intaking from the rear, the reason being is that hot air will rise from my PSU/Video card and into the rear.

I would love to hear some opinions


----------



## ritchwell

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killer01ws6*


Add Me Killhouse, I have read this entire thread.. :LONG: lol
I have noticed several folks really giving some good info and help.....
I see many of the same questions asked as folks don't read, but that is normal ha..

I love the H50, I had to change my Mobo due to lan failure, I put freeze on it and it just don't seem to be as cool as it was before.. but I had a bad 5870 also so my temps looked good with one 5870 and the H50 as intake... now I have Crossfire and not the stock tim and I am just not happy hitting 83C trying to get back to the 4.2 I got before on the orig board and missing one of my 5870s..

SO, I have a pair of S-FLEX SFF21F(1600rpM) fans so I can do a Push Pull exhaust. I know my case has high flow and think I will do better with a push pull out instead of pulling the heat from those two 5870s back into my case plus the heat of the H50s radiator.
I also picked up MASSCOOL|G751 Newegg's version of shin-etsu thermal.

I'll post up some pics and results when it is all complete 


Have you tried it as intake? I have better temps when it pulls the cool air inside my haf 922, I also have 5870 as crossfired and no problem with the temps they are oc to 1000/1300 using 1.299v, the highest temps when doing a 30min stability test in the msi afterburner was 82C.


----------



## killer01ws6

Current setup pics


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ritchwell*


Have you tried it as intake? I have better temps when it pulls the cool air inside my haf 922, I also have 5870 as crossfired and no problem with the temps they are oc to 1000/1300 using 1.299v, the highest temps when doing a 30min stability test in the msi afterburner was 82C.


Yea, I have it as intake right now.. but I am not as happy with it as I was with the first install, I figure adding the push/pull with better fans as exhaust will equal to or still be better than single stock fan as intake breathing in the heat of those 5870s in a corner lol.


----------



## ritchwell

Quote:


Originally Posted by *killer01ws6* 
Yea, I have it as intake right now.. but I am not as happy with it as I was with the first install, I figure adding the push/pull with better fans as exhaust will equal to or still be better than single stock fan as intake breathing in the heat of those 5870s in a corner lol.

I dropped a couple of degrees using the push and pull method.


----------



## killer01ws6

If I can get that over my current intake, as exhaust.. I'll be happy.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killer01ws6*


Add Me Killhouse, I have read this entire thread.. :LONG: lol
I have noticed several folks really giving some good info and help.....
I see many of the same questions asked as folks don't read, but that is normal ha..

I love the H50, I had to change my Mobo due to lan failure, I put freeze on it and it just don't seem to be as cool as it was before.. but I had a bad 5870 also so my temps looked good with one 5870 and the H50 as intake... now I have Crossfire and not the stock tim and I am just not happy hitting 83C trying to get back to the 4.2 I got before on the orig board and missing one of my 5870s..

SO, I have a pair of S-FLEX SFF21F(1600rpM) fans so I can do a Push Pull exhaust. I know my case has high flow and think I will do better with a push pull out instead of pulling the heat from those two 5870s back into my case plus the heat of the H50s radiator.
I also picked up MASSCOOL|G751 Newegg's version of shin-etsu thermal.

I'll post up some pics and results when it is all complete 


Exhaust worked better for me with Push and Pull. Give it a go and see what's up









Quote:



Originally Posted by *stewroids*


Hey guys, I'm new to the forums and I'm planning to switch my CM V8 to a H50. Has anybody switched from a V8 -> H50 and seen a difference in temperatures?

Also, I'm using a HAF 932 with stock fans, and trying to decide what the best push/pull position is. I was thinking of exhausting oppose to intaking from the rear, the reason being is that hot air will rise from my PSU/Video card and into the rear.

I would love to hear some opinions










I know somebody who did and it was night and day for him. The H50 was way better according to his results and I would not doubt it at all.

I would say either rear or out back. If you mount outback try intake and exhaust. Whichever works better stick with it. For me it was exhaust.


----------



## Darkstalker420

Hi seeing some great mods for the H50 has anyone tried using a 140mm fan with a 120mm adaptor. I would love to give this a shot (then all fans in new rig will be 140mm ahh the silence lol). May also help with any dead spots (airflow).

If so anyone know of any good quality PWM 140mm's?

Thanx.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sotorious* 
People with 25 to 28c or higher ambient temps, can you post your idle and load temps?

Im not sure if you have had much response to your request... here is mine:

Ambient temps are a little under what you want but the night was cooling down fast when I did these









At stock and idle, I usually get about 6-10c above ambient.


----------



## ChrisB17

This cooler is great. But I am not a fan of the mounting. Is the older style mount better?










vs


----------



## mr-Charles

mind i ask of in your kit: Did it contain what's showing for the first picture??

{i ask this for i believe, (and i need to verify), this is the "REV.3" for it's mounting bracket's which 
all come within the kit's , now...}

Where did you purchase this kit from???

and last question is: Does it state anywhere on the box of what " REV.# " this model is??

and to answer your question: Most would rather find the set for showing in your first picture to be 
of more strength/stronger that the one's shwoing for within the second picture..... 
Preferably to one's to have even ! !









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*


This cooler is great. But I am not a fan of the mounting. Is the older style mount better?


Im not sure... I have the old mounting which seems to work for me... I have done alot of remounting lately (dont tell my wife







) and its as strong as the first day I got it.

Mr Charles is correct - I like the looks of the latest mount.


----------



## HeWasOnly3

Hi guys I'm new to this forum actually. I'm interested in buying this h50 cooler for my MSI GD 65 motherboard. However, when I was reading the corsair forum I found out that h50 was not compatible with MSI GD65. The mosfet screw was blocking the bracket here is the picture http://flickr.com/photos/v-ran/4054886227 should I go for this cooler or venomoux x? Please advise guys and thx a lot


----------



## paulo dourado

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HeWasOnly3*


Hi guys I'm new to this forum actually. I'm interested in buying this h50 cooler for my MSI GD 65 motherboard. However, when I was reading the corsair forum I found out that h50 was not compatible with MSI GD65. The mosfet screw was blocking the bracket here is the picture http://flickr.com/photos/v-ran/4054886227 should I go for this cooler or venomoux x? Please advise guys and thx a lot










that screw looks like a SUPER easy mod to fix man. just drill a hole through the plastic where it hits the screw


----------



## paulo dourado

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*


This cooler is great. But I am not a fan of the mounting. Is the older style mount better?










vs











i dont really like it. i've got mine tightened to the point where i cant tighten anymore and the heatsink is still "kind of" loose. i twist it about 6 degrees without applying much force. and yes it is installed correctly


----------



## HeWasOnly3

Quote:


Originally Posted by *paulo dourado* 
that screw looks like a SUPER easy mod to fix man. just drill a hole through the plastic where it hits the screw

Seriously? >< Errm about the thermal tape that comes with H50, can it be reused again and again? Or you have to peel it off once you unmount the cooler?


----------



## DefecTalisman

I was wondering if there is anyway (or someone has macgyvered something) of having a warning if the H50 pump fails ?


----------



## Swoosh19

just installed h50 on my cpu..loving the temps on my procie


----------



## Defiler

Just ordered mine Last night. Prolly won't have pics of it mounted until late April though. Waiting for the 890FX to be released and possibly (depending on price) Phenom II X6.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DefecTalisman* 
I was wondering if there is anyway (or someone has macgyvered something) of having a warning if the H50 pump fails ?

most water cooling systems have inline gauges that either report back as a fan RPM or provide a visual showing water is flowing. Since the Pump on the H50 uses a 3 pin power off the MB fan header it will provide "RPM" feedback that can be seen on any program that monitors your system fans.

Most cases water pumps fail they just fail, they usually don't gradually get worse. with that being the case its hard to develop a sensor network that will let you know if the pump is failing. best thing that can be done is to keep all things equal and if you start seeing higher temps with no change in any thing else (making sure to keep same ambient and work load temps and fan configuration and flow) you may have a problem. with the accuracy of programs and the temp sensors them selves I would give a 1-2*C of margin.


----------



## DefecTalisman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
most water cooling systems have inline gauges that either report back as a fan RPM or provide a visual showing water is flowing. Since the Pump on the H50 uses a 3 pin power off the MB fan header it will provide "RPM" feedback that can be seen on any program that monitors your system fans.

Most cases water pumps fail they just fail, they usually don't gradually get worse. with that being the case its hard to develop a sensor network that will let you know if the pump is failing. best thing that can be done is to keep all things equal and if you start seeing higher temps with no change in any thing else (making sure to keep same ambient and work load temps and fan configuration and flow) you may have a problem. with the accuracy of programs and the temp sensors them selves I would give a 1-2*C of margin.

hmm.. I have relocated my pump to a the 12v rail via a molex to avoid drawing to much from my board as I had 1 vreg, 2 sys and 1 cpu header being used. I am waiting on a G.Skill RAM cooler that will use the newly opened sys header.

So the solution would be to find a small fan fail alarm ?


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DefecTalisman* 
I was wondering if there is anyway (or someone has macgyvered something) of having a warning if the H50 pump fails ?

Plug the pump into the cpu fan header. Most motherboards will shut down if it sees no rpm on that header, or at least warn you. Make sure that feature is enabled in the bios if it's available. You also get a full 12v to the pump at all times if it's a 4-pin pwm header.

Edit: As an alternative most motherboards also have high cpu temperature settings. You could use those to shutdown if the cpu gets too hot.


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
mind i ask of in your kit: Did it contain what's showing for the first picture??

{i ask this for i believe, (and i need to verify), this is the "REV.3" for it's mounting bracket's which
all come within the kit's , now...}

Where did you purchase this kit from???

and last question is: Does it state anywhere on the box of what " REV.# " this model is??

and to answer your question: Most would rather find the set for showing in your first picture to be
of more strength/stronger that the one's shwoing for within the second picture.....
Preferably to one's to have even ! !









mr-Charles .









.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Im not sure... I have the old mounting which seems to work for me... I have done alot of remounting lately (dont tell my wife







) and its as strong as the first day I got it.

Mr Charles is correct - I like the looks of the latest mount.

The latest ones according the corsair are the metal ones. Which is the H50 V3.

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=82317


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Plug the pump into the cpu fan header. Most motherboards will shut down if it sees no rpm on that header, or at least warn you. Make sure that feature is enabled in the bios if it's available. You also get a full 12v to the pump at all times if it's a 4-pin pwm header.

Edit: As an alternative most motherboards also have high cpu temperature settings. You could use those to shutdown if the cpu gets too hot.

This, but make sure you disable CPU smart fan control so it's always running @ max.


----------



## Magus2727

Correct me if I am wrong but if you plug a 3-pin into the MB with only the sense (yellow wire) it will still be able to know the speed of the fan right? or does it need the Ground wire also connected (is the MB grounded to chassie)?

I Like the Idea of flow meters better, it actualy shows the folw of water vs if the pump is working or not. You can also set up thermal shutdown so if the pump does fail it will turn off before something bad happens.


----------



## Chicken Patty

For those of you with AMD rigs worrying about the pump going out. I installed windows and all my drivers with the pump disconnected, BIOS had idle temps in the upper 70's. Still running as strong as before


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DefecTalisman* 
I was wondering if there is anyway (or someone has macgyvered something) of having a warning if the H50 pump fails ?

Your BIOS has a fail-safe temp monitor that will shut down your machine if your CPU reaches a certain temp. I wouldn't worry.


----------



## mrhandy65

just modded my h50.. its reall simple.. just wanted to post a pic, no video card in PC just want to make sure there are no leaks before i put my baby in the case...


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mrhandy65*


just modded my h50.. its reall simple.. just wanted to post a pic, no video card in PC just want to make sure there are no leaks before i put my baby in the case...










Holy sh** man thats a lot of loose wires!! personally if I was goinf for a full loops clean wires would be a must for me!!

But apart form my crazy obsession with wires, thats a pretty decent mod, I aint got the balls to do it with mine, so props man!


----------



## mrhandy65

lol.. u mean the power wires.. that is becuase after i did the mod, my PSU went... im going to replace it today. so i need to redo all cable managment anyways.. i hate BFG now.. damn PSU lasted 3 monthes, i cant wait to see if the mod gave me better temps. but for anyone thinking of the mod, just do it, its so easy. just get 1/4 inch inside diameter tubing and correct fittings and test it OUTSIDE the case first!


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84*


This, but make sure you disable CPU smart fan control so it's always running @ max.


Luckily new motherboards usually have the 4-pin pwm connector for the cpu fan. By plugging the 3-pin pump connector into the 4-pin it bypasses the speed control connection (pwm) and runs at max at all times. Just observe that you connect it properly by inserting the slot in the fan connector into the tab on the mobo connector.


----------



## Magus2727

How much power does the pump pull? 1 amp? 2 amps? I think my header is only rated for 2 amps...

Also a side note about the BIOS thermal shutdown, I dont know about all MB but My Gigabyte has the option but comes disabled from the factory. so You manualy need to go in and configure the shutdown temp for the MB to actualy turn off at that temp.

Edit: So the H50 has the 4-pin PWM connection and with that you dont need to change the Smart CPU option? I am guessing this since it pulses the 12v inplace of droping the voltage to obtain different RPM's... and the Pump NEEDS 12V and not the 8 or 9 or what else it would try to give in the 3 pin configuration.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mrhandy65*


lol.. u mean the power wires.. that is becuase after i did the mod, my PSU went... im going to replace it today. so i need to redo all cable managment anyways.. i hate BFG now.. damn PSU lasted 3 monthes, i cant wait to see if the mod gave me better temps. but for anyone thinking of the mod, just do it, its so easy. just get 1/4 inch inside diameter tubing and correct fittings and test it OUTSIDE the case first!


3 months !! thats a bit council! i dont think i could go anything other than Corsair for psu manufacturer, I'm not saying the others aren't adequate, but i've never had a problem with both my Corsairs, the HX650 and the TX950.

I must say i'm getting tempted to mod my h-50 now, its not like i'm unhappy with my temps but colder is cooler no?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Luckily new motherboards usually have the 4-pin pwm connector for the cpu fan. By plugging the 3-pin pump connector into the 4-pin it bypasses the speed control connection (pwm) and runs at max at all times. Just observe that you connect it properly by inserting the slot in the fan connector into the tab on the mobo connector.


I wouldnt trust that, some boards like mine will auto throttle 3 pin connectors as well as 4 pin unless set correctly.


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mrhandy65* 
just modded my h50.. its reall simple.. just wanted to post a pic, no video card in PC just want to make sure there are no leaks before i put my baby in the case...









Why not run the ram in dual channel? The way you got them setup I am thinking its in single.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
How much power does the pump pull? 1 amp? 2 amps? I think my header is only rated for 2 amps...

Also a side note about the BIOS thermal shutdown, I dont know about all MB but My Gigabyte has the option but comes disabled from the factory. so You manualy need to go in and configure the shutdown temp for the MB to actualy turn off at that temp.

Edit: So the H50 has the 4-pin PWM connection and with that you dont need to change the Smart CPU option? I am guessing this since it pulses the 12v inplace of droping the voltage to obtain different RPM's... and the Pump NEEDS 12V and not the 8 or 9 or what else it would try to give in the 3 pin configuration.

Your mobo will be fine with the pump plugged into the cpu fan header. On the 4-pin cpu fan header the 12v is constant. Speed is controlled by the pwm pin which is not used when you plug in a 3-pin connector. On chassis fan connectors it is possible to vary the voltage on the 12v pin to control fan speed.

Edit:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
I wouldnt trust that, some boards like mine will auto throttle 3 pin connectors as well as 4 pin unless set correctly.

Might be true on some. Always test before you assume it works. I also suspect that would not meet the Intel spec. I tested mine and it's as per the spec.

Edit 2: Added link to Intel spec.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Might be true on some. Always test before you assume it works. I also suspect that would not meet the Intel spec. I tested mine and it's as per the spec.

Edit 2: Added link to Intel spec.

I've reset my bios before an them noticed the pump running at 800RPM and only 1400RPM under load.

I have lots of options for this sort of thing in my Bios, I find disabled works best anyway.


----------



## NoahDiamond

I wish I had a dual socket multi CPU board, so I could install 2 H50s and call it the boobie machine.

MY COMPUTER HAS DUAL WATER BOOBS!


----------



## Defiler

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
Correct me if I am wrong but if you plug a 3-pin into the MB with only the sense (yellow wire) it will still be able to know the speed of the fan right? or does it need the Ground wire also connected (is the MB grounded to chassie)?

The yellow wire is the RPM sensor. So, yes, you could do a split cable feeding power from a 3 to 4 adaptor and just the yellow wire going to the MB.


----------



## Defiler

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NoahDiamond* 
I wish I had a dual socket multi CPU board, so I could install 2 H50s and call it the boobie machine.

MY COMPUTER HAS DUAL WATER BOOBS!

Shirley you jest.

And yes I just called you Shirley.


----------



## R1P5AW

Just to let you guys know:

I'm testing the Corsair H50 vs Noctua NH-D14

I'm currently in a quest to find out the best cooling solution without full watercooling.

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...vs-noctua.html

Results will be posted this week!


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R1P5AW* 
Just to let you guys know:

I'm testing the Corsair H50 vs Noctua NH-D14

I'm currently in a quest to find out the best cooling solution without full watercooling.

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...vs-noctua.html

Results will be posted this week!

I had both and the H50 is better for me. Using the same fans. The NH-D14 is HUGE I hated how big it was.


----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChrisB17* 
I had both and the H50 is better for me. Using the same fans. The NH-D14 is HUGE I hated how big it was.

You got better temps from the H50?


----------



## Magus2727

Right now the size of the H50 is the large factor for me over other Air-Cooling. I dont know if the stress that the size of air cooler that is needed to be compared to the H50 is ideal for the Chip or the socket. if your Computer is going to sit in the same place for ever and never move then why not, but if you move your case around the Air-fans will put a lot of Torque on your CPU just due to the amount of weight and how far it is located from the CPU.


----------



## ChrisB17

Yes. Using my sig rig the H50 has been alot better compared to my NH-D14. I liked my Megahalems over the NH-D14 also. The D-14 for its size wasn't worth it IMO. The Mega was smaller and has better mounting for the same/close temps.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*


The latest ones according the corsair are the metal ones. Which is the H50 V3.

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=82317



so, you are stating that from the pictures in your posting's, of #5965, that the NEWer bracket's 
for within the REV.3's are like the second picture??{ made of like " tin_can " metal-like???}

so, that would mean the first picture is showing of the "older/earlier" type of bracket's??? 
{ which tend to look better/stronger ! ! } .... correct me if i am looking/seeing this wrong and all . . .









. . . along with the fact that the one's with the "tin/metal" type 
come with a "plastic/type" of a backplate, even......









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## NoahDiamond

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Defiler*


Shirley you jest.

And yes I just called you Shirley.










When you're finished, I want you to say "Oh, what a lovely tea party!".


----------



## Defiler

Ha! I was expecting:

*Rumack*: Can you fly this plane, and land it? 
*Ted Striker*: Surely you can't be serious. 
*Rumack*: I am serious... and don't call me Shirley.


----------



## Robit

Hi! Just ordered the H50 Mon (03.22) from the "egg"...... expect to get it Wed (03.24)...... I plan to have a push-pull fan setup (two Silverstone Speed ajustable to 107cfm)...... I'd be pushing the air out of the case-not in..... from what I've seen on the net this setup works best...... I'll have to mod the case somewhat (Apevia G type full tower), but that's to be expected...... Looking forward to this install. Put me in the club! Thanks Robit


----------



## spectre023

add me!
have mine setup with a swiftech 240 rad and danger den res, along with the appropriate uv tubing and cathodes


----------



## mrhandy65

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*


Why not run the ram in dual channel? The way you got them setup I am thinking its in single.










they are set as dual channel that way. it was weird, in slot one and three it was single, one and four, dual, so i leave it that way..


----------



## frenchelite

My first real config:


----------



## pcnuttie

You need to work on that cable management eventhough you have a H50. Trust me, you'll get better airflow control.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Before








4.2ghz and new thermal paste/better tubing intake


----------



## Chicken Patty

Check out my lowest temp









Current crunching load temp is 38Âºc


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


so, you are stating that from the pictures in your posting's, of #5965, that the NEWer bracket's 
for within the REV.3's are like the second picture??{ made of like " tin_can " metal-like???}

so, that would mean the first picture is showing of the "older/earlier" type of bracket's??? 
{ which tend to look better/stronger ! ! } .... correct me if i am looking/seeing this wrong and all . . .









. . . along with the fact that the one's with the "tin/metal" type 
come with a "plastic/type" of a backplate, even......









mr-Charles .









.


The metal ones are the new rev. Corsair IMO cheaped out to save some $$ with the newer mounts. But I have been testing them and they seem ok so I am not complaining.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mrhandy65*


they are set as dual channel that way. it was weird, in slot one and three it was single, one and four, dual, so i leave it that way..


Damn that's weird.


----------



## pzyko80

ok fellas, this probably been asked before but as you can see on my sig rig i have the mega for a cooling solution but its getting to be too loud for my taste... im not aiming for uber high ocs i sit at 3.2 nicely..now i was thinking of picking up this unit. question is 1) at stock would this be quieter than my current set up or just about the same 2) if i do pick this up what revision should i look for and 3) whats the optimal mounting position for the rad in my 1200?? in or out?? thanks in advance


----------



## TwwIX

Could somebody suggest me a less louder and similarly priced alternative to the Scythe Ultra Kaze?

I was thinking of getting the 3000RPM + Fan Controller but a lot of people are saying that it will sound even worse when it's undervolted.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pzyko80*


ok fellas, this probably been asked before but as you can see on my sig rig i have the mega for a cooling solution but its getting to be too loud for my taste... im not aiming for uber high ocs i sit at 3.2 nicely..now i was thinking of picking up this unit. question is 1) at stock would this be quieter than my current set up or just about the same 2) if i do pick this up what revision should i look for and 3) whats the optimal mounting position for the rad in my 1200?? in or out?? thanks in advance


1- Yes, factory fan is PWM so hook it up to the mobo and you can control it through software or BIOS.

2- Not sure, I think they only sell the last revision

3- Probably Exhaust, but TEST TEST TEST

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwwIX*


Could somebody suggest me a less louder and similarly priced alternative to the Scythe Ultra Kaze?

I was thinking of getting the 3000RPM + Fan Controller but a lot of people are saying that it will sound even worse when it's undervolted.


I don't see how that is possible? If anything you can get the S Type 110 CFM ones from Scythe and a fan controller, they work great on a fan controller.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwwIX*


Could somebody suggest me a less louder and similarly priced alternative to the Scythe Ultra Kaze?

I was thinking of getting the 3000RPM + Fan Controller but a lot of people are saying that it will sound even worse when it's undervolted.


Hey, well i went for these

They're looking pretty good!! and quiet, not bad Airflow too


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


Before

4.2ghz and new thermal paste/better tubing intake


Nice







Ambient temps?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Trust me, you'll get better airflow control.


What is airflow control? Is that like ATC?


----------



## pzyko80

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
1- Yes, factory fan is PWM so hook it up to the mobo and you can control it through software or BIOS.

2- Not sure, I think they only sell the last revision

3- Probably Exhaust, but TEST TEST TEST

I don't see how that is possible? If anything you can get the S Type 110 CFM ones from Scythe and a fan controller, they work great on a fan controller.

ty


----------



## XMAGUSX

I'm thinking of doing a dual-single-rad setup like sexybastard did, in my P180 Mini, but I was just wondering - how powerful is the H50 pump? I think I remember reading that somebody's pump burned out because of the stress of the entire loop, and I don't know if this was just an isolated incident, or something that's guaranteed to happen if I mod the H50.

And yes, I realize I have a topic on this question already, I just didn't think of posting here until now.


----------



## rzs77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XMAGUSX*


I'm thinking of doing a dual-single-rad setup like sexybastard did, in my P180 Mini, but I was just wondering - how powerful is the H50 pump? I think I remember reading that somebody's pump burned out because of the stress of the entire loop, and I don't know if this was just an isolated incident, or something that's guaranteed to happen if I mod the H50.

And yes, I realize I have a topic on this question already, I just didn't think of posting here until now.


I'm using a 240 ek rad and a swiftech mcres rev2. still running strong.


----------



## Swoosh19

@rzs77

how many months is it running?i like to mod my h50 and i want to know if the h50 pump can handle 2 rads and a res


----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChrisB17* 
Yes. Using my sig rig the H50 has been alot better compared to my NH-D14. I liked my Megahalems over the NH-D14 also. The D-14 for its size wasn't worth it IMO. The Mega was smaller and has better mounting for the same/close temps.

All I really care about is performance..


----------



## TwwIX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


Hey, well i went for these

They're looking pretty good!! and quiet, not bad Airflow too




















How is the high static pressure on those compared to the Ultra Kaze's?

I didn't see that particular in fan in Martinm's multi fan radiator test.


----------



## Danny Boy

well got my h50 installed, not that hard just a couple steps and gotta make sure u follow directions...temps...well idle only dropped 1-2c as i was sitting at 30-31c and now sitting at 29C, BUT LOAD!!!! high was 55C, after 10 rounds of IBT, max temp is 50C dropped a whole 5C, not bad(wish it was better, but ehh)


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TwwIX* 
How is the high static pressure on those compared to the Ultra Kaze's?

I didn't see that particular in fan in Martinm's multi fan radiator test.

Hey man, i'm not sure how they compare to the Ultra's but follow the link for the static pressure,

I also think these are recent fans so not sure were they'll stand in comparison,

Beating the **** out of my 4ghz @ 33idle 55 Load!


----------



## rzs77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Swoosh19* 
@rzs77

how many months is it running?i like to mod my h50 and i want to know if the h50 pump can handle 2 rads and a res

I think it can handle 240 rads cos I read somewhere that a similar product used a 240 rad with the same pump. forgot the name. (CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG)

Btw, it's been running for 2 weeks now


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


Nice







Ambient temps?

What is airflow control? Is that like ATC?


 Ambient was 20C


----------



## Ninja306

Hello,

I recently got the Lancool K62 case together with the system listed below in the signature, Corsair H50, i7 930 oc @4ghz etc

Impressions so far, given that its my first windowed PC, I love the case, find I look inside the machine a fair bit, have kept it stock but with the Vapor X 5870 card being a fair length it (together with the HD case) means the air flow from lower 1000rpm 120mm front fan is probably not all that it could be.

I have the rear mounted H50 rad with the Corsair supplied 120 fan installed as intake (not yet on push-pull) and used the spare Lian Li 120mm fan in the slot above the Hd cage at the front of the machine to blow into the case,across the top of the graphics card and heatsink area, with the 2 top chassis 1000rpm 140mm fans exhausting out. I did reverse the Corsair fan to exhaust 9per some views here in the thread) but for me, internal temps rose.

In a presently now warm room the idle numbers are.. (looks at Core temp..42, 39. 42, 38). On OCCT stress test at 100%, the figures rise to on average to mid 80s, that does concern me some.

I have opened various real life tasks..numerous youtube videos, Assassins Creed 2, blu-ray film, Photoshop etc, and found the temps at average of high 40s - mid 50s. and stable.

I cannot see when I am likely to be doing all that at the same time, so I guess that the temps for the PC appear okay in the 'real world' so to speak.

The exhaust top fans seem to do their job too, however still look to change H50 radiator fan and get two for push/pull, if forum members have any recent views on this, (..yes am plowing through the thread slowly!)

I have two slots taken with blu-ray player, and another dvd drive below that, so am sticking with the spare Lian Li 120mm fan in the space left in the top cage cage meantime.

Any views/comments are welcome, bearing in mind am new to this please.

Am looking for a 'cool' reliable system,.. rather than 'ice cold' (and more costly)

Akasa Apache and Gentle Typhoons are 2 fans I keep seeing appearing as good fans for the job..?

Thanks for reading. -))


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ninja306*


Hello,

I recently got the Lancool K62 case together with the system listed below in the signature, Corsair H50, i7 930 oc @4ghz etc

Impressions so far, given that its my first windowed PC, I love the case, find I look inside the machine a fair bit, have kept it stock but with the Vapor X 5870 card being a fair length it (together with the HD case) means the air flow from lower 1000rpm 120mm front fan is probably not all that it could be.

I have the rear mounted H50 rad with the Corsair supplied 120 fan installed as intake (not yet on push-pull) and used the spare Lian Li 120mm fan in the slot above the Hd cage at the front of the machine to blow into the case,across the top of the graphics card and heatsink area, with the 2 top chassis 1000rpm 140mm fans exhausting out. I did reverse the Corsair fan to exhaust 9per some views here in the thread) but for me, internal temps rose.

In a presently now warm room the idle numbers are.. (looks at Core temp..42, 39. 42, 38). On OCCT stress test at 100%, the figures rise to on average to mid 80s, that does concern me some.

I have opened various real life tasks..numerous youtube videos, Assassins Creed 2, blu-ray film, Photoshop etc, and found the temps at average of high 40s - mid 50s. and stable.

I cannot see when I am likely to be doing all that at the same time, so I guess that the temps for the PC appear okay in the 'real world' so to speak.

The exhaust top fans seem to do their job too, however still look to change H50 radiator fan and get two for push/pull, if forum members have any recent views on this, (..yes am plowing through the thread slowly!)

I have two slots taken with blu-ray player, and another dvd drive below that, so am sticking with the spare Lian Li 120mm fan in the space left in the top cage cage meantime.

Any views/comments are welcome, bearing in mind am new to this please.

Am looking for a 'cool' reliable system,.. rather than 'ice cold' (and more costly)

Akasa Apache and Gentle Typhoons are 2 fans I keep seeing appearing as good fans for the job..?

Thanks for reading. -))


Hey dude, get us a pic







I love Lancool cases.

Anyhow, you might want to try the fan as exhaust also. Which ever way you get better results, keep it. Mid 80's is a bit high, but if you only game or what not then it's fine as it'll never really reach that high.

How do you have your pump connected? To a motherboard header, or to the PSU?


----------



## TwwIX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


Hey man, i'm not sure how they compare to the Ultra's but follow the link for the static pressure,

I also think these are recent fans so not sure were they'll stand in comparison,

Beating the **** out of my 4ghz @ 33idle 55 Load!


I Am having trouble finding consistent info on the Ultra Kaze's air pressure.
Apparently it's 4.00 mm H2O from what i have found so far.

I Am clueless when it comes to air pressure measurements tbh.


----------



## Ninja306

Thanks chicken..great name btw..

i do like the case, got it after reading reviews, hoping to get the radiator as sensibly cool as poss then do the cold cathode light thing...its such a nice case for showing.

Will def post a pic with H50 install etc, but away for few days so prob next week sometime. Thanks for the comment, your right, unless constantly needing to use the machine flat out all the time, my tems should be okay for my needs, I suppose its just about getting best result for heat/performance.

I do like the Corsair H50, so its on with the reading of the thread re replacemnt/upgarde of fans.

cheers fae scotland!


----------



## paleblue

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ninja306* 
Hello,

I recently got the Lancool K62 case together with the system listed below in the signature, Corsair H50, i7 930 oc @4ghz etc

Impressions so far, given that its my first windowed PC, I love the case, find I look inside the machine a fair bit, have kept it stock but with the Vapor X 5870 card being a fair length it (together with the HD case) means the air flow from lower 1000rpm 120mm front fan is probably not all that it could be.

I have the rear mounted H50 rad with the Corsair supplied 120 fan installed as intake (not yet on push-pull) and used the spare Lian Li 120mm fan in the slot above the Hd cage at the front of the machine to blow into the case,across the top of the graphics card and heatsink area, with the 2 top chassis 1000rpm 140mm fans exhausting out. I did reverse the Corsair fan to exhaust 9per some views here in the thread) but for me, internal temps rose.

In a presently now warm room the idle numbers are.. (looks at Core temp..42, 39. 42, 38). On OCCT stress test at 100%, the figures rise to on average to mid 80s, that does concern me some.

I have opened various real life tasks..numerous youtube videos, Assassins Creed 2, blu-ray film, Photoshop etc, and found the temps at average of high 40s - mid 50s. and stable.

I cannot see when I am likely to be doing all that at the same time, so I guess that the temps for the PC appear okay in the 'real world' so to speak.

The exhaust top fans seem to do their job too, however still look to change H50 radiator fan and get two for push/pull, if forum members have any recent views on this, (..yes am plowing through the thread slowly!)

I have two slots taken with blu-ray player, and another dvd drive below that, so am sticking with the spare Lian Li 120mm fan in the space left in the top cage cage meantime.

Any views/comments are welcome, bearing in mind am new to this please.

Am looking for a 'cool' reliable system,.. rather than 'ice cold' (and more costly)

Akasa Apache and Gentle Typhoons are 2 fans I keep seeing appearing as good fans for the job..?

Thanks for reading. -))

What batch number is your 930?


----------



## Killhouse

I'm back









Edited the member list, please try not to mess it up again! Almost 350 members now!


----------



## Ninja306

Hi paleblue, not sure right now, I can check , was there probs with a particular batch? Where would I find that number?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ninja306* 
Hello,

I recently got the Lancool K62 case together with the system listed below in the signature, Corsair H50, i7 930 oc @4ghz etc

Any views/comments are welcome, bearing in mind am new to this please.

Am looking for a 'cool' reliable system,.. rather than 'ice cold' (and more costly)

Akasa Apache and Gentle Typhoons are 2 fans I keep seeing appearing as good fans for the job..?

Thanks for reading. -))

Hey and welcome.

The two fans you mention have relatively light CFM rates. For rad cooling you need to be a little higher ~ 70 CFM+

There is a listing of fans on the front page of this thread of the most commonly used fans people are using for their H50.

Push / pull is always a great way to go with this unit. Whether thats an intake or exhaust configuration will be dependent on your set up. Ive used both and have found intake is good for the cooler months and exhaust works well in the hotter months.

Good case cooling and cable management is essential for any system but it seems more so with the H50.

Shrouds... again, these can help temp wise. If space is tight, suggest a shroud between the push fan and the rad. If space isnt an issue, try a shroud between the rad and the pull fan as well. See my sig for making a shroud.

TIM: always topical







What did you use? My current favs are Shin Estu (stock for this unit - albeit a little thick) or MX-2/3 (see graph).

Welcome again and have fun!


----------



## voodoo71

Hey everyone. Has anyone tried or heard of anyone using Indeigo Extreme with the H50. It looks like some pretty good stuff.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


I'm back










About time! You dont write, you dont call... we where worried sick!

Naww.. didnt even notice you'd gone









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Voodoo71*

Hey everyone. Has anyone tried or heard of anyone using Indeigo Extreme with the H50. It looks like some pretty good stuff.


I hear is hard to get, expensive ($US20) and you get two applications. I havent heard of many people using it. Its not like your normal TIM paste and does not work with some HS.

http://indigo-xtreme.com/about.html


----------



## Killhouse

Nobody here has used it as far as we know. I tried to check if it would be compatible with the H50 but I couldnt really work it out, I think it is but you'd want to research that thoroughly.

And yes, it's only two applications and is expensive!


----------



## Ninja306

Thanks Sethy666.

Stock is the short answer, the cable management is good, but the flow of air is not yetIi think 100% right, even though as I said am not looking to have ice cold stats, if it runs well am happy, tonight have been on browsers, gaming, and here in the thread and my temps are ..42, 40, 39, 40. The room am in is warm.

And thanks for the info about shrouds too. ))


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ninja306*


Thanks Sethy666.

Stock is the short answer, the cable management is good, but the flow of air is not yetIi think 100% right, even though as I said am not looking to have ice cold stats, if it runs well am happy, tonight have been on browsers, gaming, and here in the thread and my temps are ..42, 40, 39, 40. The room am in is warm.

And thanks for the info about shrouds too. ))


No probs.

Please be sure to complete this form for your system specs... just so you dont have keep repeating yourself if you have any issues









Quote:



http://www.overclock.net/specs.php?do=addsystem


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ninja306*


Thanks Sethy666.

Stock is the short answer, the cable management is good, but the flow of air is not yetIi think 100% right, even though as I said am not looking to have ice cold stats, if it runs well am happy, tonight have been on browsers, gaming, and here in the thread and my temps are ..42, 40, 39, 40. The room am in is warm.

And thanks for the info about shrouds too. ))


Welcome aboard.


----------



## Prugor

I've got to say, I'm impressed. At full load with the overclock I currently have my temps using OCCT on a 6 hour test run never went past 48C.


----------



## R1P5AW

I'm at 80'c on OCCT on my OC. Check out the link in my sig...

I'm testing it against the NH-D14 to find which is better


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Prugor*


I've got to say, I'm impressed. At full load with the overclock I currently have my temps using OCCT on a 6 hour test run never went past 48C.


What's your ambient temps? I ask because I notice you have a Q6600, and it usually takes some decent volts to get it up around 3.4-3.6, and my QX6850 runs MUCH higher than that @ 3.6 with 1.32v, depending on ambients. I also have a HAF932 with a LOT of air moving.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ninja306*


Thanks chicken..great name btw..

i do like the case, got it after reading reviews, hoping to get the radiator as sensibly cool as poss then do the cold cathode light thing...its such a nice case for showing.

Will def post a pic with H50 install etc, but away for few days so prob next week sometime. Thanks for the comment, your right, unless constantly needing to use the machine flat out all the time, my tems should be okay for my needs, I suppose its just about getting best result for heat/performance.

I do like the Corsair H50, so its on with the reading of the thread re replacemnt/upgarde of fans.

cheers fae scotland!


Looking forward to the pic bro


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R1P5AW* 
I'm at 80'c on OCCT on my OC. Check out the link in my sig...

I'm testing it against the NH-D14 to find which is better









This will be interesting. I've always flagged the NH-D14 as a better cooler than the H50 but it will be good to see some solid results! Good job!


----------



## Prugor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
What's your ambient temps? I ask because I notice you have a Q6600, and it usually takes some decent volts to get it up around 3.4-3.6, and my QX6850 runs MUCH higher than that @ 3.6 with 1.32v, depending on ambients. I also have a HAF932 with a LOT of air moving.

Middle of Oklahoma, house usually stays 68-71F.

Typo and being fixed, had a random lockup when I came home from work tonight so I backed down to 3.2GHZ. Gonna move the voltage up some more and see if I can get it going. Also changed/upgraded my fans. Added a Scythe intake for the push/pull for the H50 and two of the red led coolermaster fans and two 92m as exhaust. When I did this, I basically cut my temps in half.


----------



## leppie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TwwIX* 
I Am having trouble finding consistent info on the Ultra Kaze's air pressure.
Apparently it's 4.00 mm H2O from what i have found so far.

Yes, that is correct. Go to their website, then convert the Pa value too mmH20 (engineeringtoolbox.com) and you get around 4.02mm for the 2000RPM ones.

For the 3000RPM ones, its about double that (8.22 mmH2O).


----------



## seldonbilly

I'm running push/pull with an antec tri-cool and the H50 stock cooler. They exhaust out the back of my case, I dont like the idea of hot air being blasted all over my mobo xD Seems to work even though its not in agreement with Corsairs instructions...


----------



## Killhouse

Thats a good choice Seldonbilly, exactly what I did in my old Antec with the same fans as you. Welcome to OCN!


----------



## TwwIX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leppie* 
Yes, that is correct. Go to their website, then convert the Pa value too mmH20 (engineeringtoolbox.com) and you get around 4.02mm for the 2000RPM ones.

For the 3000RPM ones, its about double that (8.22 mmH2O).

Oh, cool. Thanks for the info. I was thinking of going with the
Apache Black Super Silent like somebody suggested but the Ultra Kaze pushes almost twice as much static air pressure. Two of the 2000 RPM's should be enough for a push and pull set up. They will certainly be quieter than the 3000 RPM version.


----------



## Prugor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


What's your ambient temps? I ask because I notice you have a Q6600, and it usually takes some decent volts to get it up around 3.4-3.6, and my QX6850 runs MUCH higher than that @ 3.6 with 1.32v, depending on ambients. I also have a HAF932 with a LOT of air moving.


Stable [email protected] on full load, volts drop to 1.32v.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwwIX*


Oh, cool. Thanks for the info. I was thinking of going with the 
Apache Black Super Silent like somebody suggested but the Ultra Kaze pushes almost twice as much static air pressure. Two of the 2000 RPM's should be enough for a push and pull set up. They will certainly be quieter than the 3000 RPM version.


Yeah i'm sure you can find some decent 3000rpm fans, The Apache Blacks are at 1600 and have a max db of 13!! which is amazing, i have like 9 fans in my case so sound was an issue for me, these were the quietest/fastest i could find, tbh i have 4 different type of fans including this MAD CRAZY loud one from an old asus, but MY LORD does that push some air!!! I'm serious its hard to hold when plugged in and comes with a cone shroud, i'm thinking i might give that a whack, can anyone tell me what airflow this has, i've searched high and low, even the sunon website doesn't list it!


----------



## konkhra

Just built this for fun...and because I had a lot of extra parts laying around, lol. Only things I needed to buy was hdd and case.


----------



## whoisron

Hey guys I recently purchased a corsair h50 and I have been testing intake and exhaust setups on the rad with different fans and I guess I been screwing too much because the screws dont' lock into place in the rad anymore so im RMA'ing it and im debating to either get another h50 or order a different cooler. My ambient temps is around 25c and I use push/pull setup as intake it yields me cooler temps than exhause I was using the GT15's but I switched them out to GT14's since the noise was bothering me. I idle at 3.8ghz 40, 36, 41, 37 and with full load on prime95 for about an hour I get around 70, 68, 71, 67, are the temps within normal range. I just unmounted my h50 and I have a picture of what the TIM looks like after I took it off the CPU, did it spread evenly? are the temps that im experiencing too spread out?


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *whoisron* 
Hey guys I recently purchased a corsair h50 and I have been testing intake and exhaust setups on the rad with different fans and I guess I been screwing too much because the screws dont' lock into place in the rad anymore so im RMA'ing it and im debating to either get another h50 or order a different cooler. My ambient temps is around 25c and I use push/pull setup as intake it yields me cooler temps than exhause I was using the GT15's but I switched them out to GT14's since the noise was bothering me. I idle at 3.8ghz 40, 36, 41, 37 and with full load on prime95 for about an hour I get around 70, 68, 71, 67, are the temps within normal range. I just unmounted my h50 and I have a picture of what the TIM looks like after I took it off the CPU, did it spread evenly? are the temps that im experiencing too spread out?



















Your TIM looks fine. There is quite a bit on there stock, but temps don't look TERRIBLE... Maybe a little high but IDK your vcore.


----------



## whoisron

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


Your TIM looks fine. There is quite a bit on there stock, but temps don't look TERRIBLE... Maybe a little high but IDK your vcore.


im at 181x21 my vcore is 1.23500 around there. I believe and my qpi is 1.2500

i have overclocked to 191x21 but i think i got a bad chip because I can't seem to get stable at anything under 1.3 vcore









when I run at 4ghz my idle temps are pretty much the same around 40, 36, 41, 37 , when i run prime95 for an hour I get around like 72, 71, 70, 68.

is that how the TIM is suppose to look like in the middle?

Thanks.


----------



## Magus2727

What is the best way to remove a cooler that has Thermal Paste on it, and what needs to be done to clean it off? I have my new H50 siting on the porch at home waiting for me to get home to install it! YEA!!! Add me to the club!!!!


----------



## ericeod

I am going to be testing out this cooler with a pair of 140mm fans using these 120mm-to-140mm fan adpaters. The adapters will serve as a standoff (hopefully to reduce noice).










This will be going into a CM Storm Scout case. I will be mounting the rad in push/pull on the top 140mm (has 120mm mounting as well) fan mount pulling air in from the top.

Now I just have to decide on the fans.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *whoisron*


im at 181x21 my vcore is 1.23500 around there. I believe and my qpi is 1.2500

i have overclocked to 191x21 but i think i got a bad chip because I can't seem to get stable at anything under 1.3 vcore









when I run at 4ghz my idle temps are pretty much the same around 40, 36, 41, 37 , when i run prime95 for an hour I get around like 72, 71, 70, 68.

is that how the TIM is suppose to look like in the middle?

Thanks.


When you pull it off, you can see the patterns match eachother, so yes it looks fine. You have complete contact. I actually rubbed off the Shin Etsu (because of multiple reseatings) and applied some NH-T1 TIM, and a LOT less than the H50 comes with stock.

Post up pics of your case setup with directions of airflow. You have to take into consideration the airflow in the case, to get the best setup for your H50 setup.


----------



## whoisron

Hey guys I recently purchased some shrouds to install with my h50 to cool the rad a bit more and to reduce sound and eliminate the dead spot, but the shroud don't fit into my case with the two fans and rad..







it actually touches the pump unit thats mounted to the CPU chip.. I have a CM Storm sniper.. this makes me sad..


----------



## buste2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *whoisron*


Hey guys I recently purchased some shrouds to install with my h50 to cool the rad a bit more and to reduce sound and eliminate the dead spot, but the shroud don't fit into my case with the two fans and rad..







it actually touches the pump unit thats mounted to the CPU chip.. I have a CM Storm sniper.. this makes me sad..


Are you able to mount 1 fan outside the case? Some people have mounted the fan with shroud on the outside and one set on the inside.


----------



## Aqualoon

I have a really nub question to ask, and I'm going to post it here so that in a few days time it will be buried in this thread so people might forget how nubby I am!









So...question is...when installing a fan how do you know which direction to install it? For example if I wanted to install an intake which way would I face the fan? I know on one side of the fan is just the manufacturer logo and on the other side is the fan specs and what not.


----------



## Magus2727

Usually there is some indicator on the side of the fan that says AirFlow or Flow with an arrow. Or just power it up and see which direction it flows. Usually but no in all cases if you are looking at the front of the fan that may have a logo or some sort in the middle that is usually the intake so it pushes fan out the back. but that is not always the case, just what I have seen on my fans.


----------



## buste2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aqualoon*


I have a really nub question to ask, and I'm going to post it here so that in a few days time it will be buried in this thread so people might forget how nubby I am!









So...question is...when installing a fan how do you know which direction to install it? For example if I wanted to install an intake which way would I face the fan? I know on one side of the fan is just the manufacturer logo and on the other side is the fan specs and what not.


hey bro...you can check your stock corsair fan and in the middle on 1 side of the fan has arrows. It will show ^> or <^


----------



## Aqualoon

Thanks guys, I'll just plug it into my motherboard and fire up the ole PC to double check then if it's not indicated.

Replacing pretty much all my stock case fans and then doing what was mentioned here a few posts back...140mm to 120mm fan adapter and sticking and top mounting the rad.


----------



## shizdan

What types of temps are you guys seeing with a Q9550 around 3.8-4.0 with Intel Burn test?


----------



## kev_b

I received the 220 Asetek version of the H-50 but it came with no instructions with it, the pump and circuit board looks just like the H-50 with the cover pulled back but it has a 3 pin Fan connector and a 4 pin Molex connector.
I would like to remove the Molex connector but I am not sure if I need this plug, both plugs go to different points on the top of the circuit board, the Molex connector is clearly marked on the circuit board power and ground while the 3 pin fan connector isnâ€™t marked. The 3 pin connector is in the same place on the circuit board as the H-50 is. I found a picture from one of the mods in this forum to show what I am talking about, any advice would be welcomed.


----------



## whoisron

Quote:



Originally Posted by *buste2*


Are you able to mount 1 fan outside the case? Some people have mounted the fan with shroud on the outside and one set on the inside.


i didn't really like the thought of it sticking outside my case fan blades all exposed and stuff is not cool.


----------



## Killhouse

Try plugging each one in at a time, if it runs both times then they are doing the same thing and you can cut the molex off. I would suggest leaving a slight tail on the connection so you can rewire it if necessary.

I'm pretty sure that they will both be doing the same thing unless the 3-pin connector is just an RPM monitor.


----------



## ericeod

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
Usually there is some indicator on the side of the fan that says AirFlow or Flow with an arrow. Or just power it up and see which direction it flows. Usually but no in all cases if you are looking at the front of the fan that may have a logo or some sort in the middle that is usually the intake so it pushes fan out the back. but that is not always the case, just what I have seen on my fans.

If you are looking at the fan, and you can see the center hub without mount to the frame, the fan blows towards you. And vice versa, if you are facing the fan towards you, and you can see the mounting frame, the fan is blowing air away from you.


----------



## Ninja306

Hi guys.

Using the H50 in my Lancool K62 gives me a bit of space for the push/pull arrangement, how about this fan 38mm deep..(still with Corsair single stock atm)

Silenx Ixtrema pro 120x120x38 mm 90cfm 18db fan

which could be mounted on the case rear, then radiator then another fan, (flowing in or out depending on heat temps) maybe from same brand but 25mm version?

I was advised here in the forum that its the 'cfm' value that has to be good to push air through the radiator and help reduce overall temps. There is probably enough space for a 2nd 38mm fan in push/pull, but am looking for advice.. (have learned more about fans than anything else since getting the H50 and my new PC

Idle normal room temp average..38
Warm room ..40
OCCT Stress Test @ 100% - mid 80s (its this I would like to lower somewhat, yes I know i7 930 oc can run hot, but every little helps longevity)
vcore 1.34

Cheers.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:


Originally Posted by *buste2* 
Are you able to mount 1 fan outside the case? Some people have mounted the fan with shroud on the outside and one set on the inside.

Yeah just put a guard on it


----------



## ericeod

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ninja306* 
Hi guys.

Using the H50 in my Lancool K62 gives me a bit of space for the push/pull arrangement, how about this fan 38mm deep..(still with Corsair single stock atm)

Silenx Ixtrema pro 120x120x38 mm 90cfm 18db fan

which could be mounted on the case rear, then radiator then another fan, (flowing in or out depending on heat temps) maybe from same brand but 25mm version?

I was advised here in the forum that its the 'cfm' value that has to be good to push air through the radiator and help reduce overall temps. There is probably enough space for a 2nd 38mm fan in push/pull, but am looking for advice.. (have learned more about fans than anything else since getting the H50 and my new PC

Idle normal room temp average..38
Warm room ..40
OCCT Stress Test @ 100% - mid 80s (its this I would like to lower somewhat, yes I know i7 930 oc can run hot, but every little helps longevity)
vcore 1.34

Cheers.

I gave up on the silenX fans after dropping ~$120 on a handful of their 120mm case fans, only to have them make way too much noise and fail on me. I think out of the five I ordered, only one of them made it a year, and they were too loud to be used in my case without running them with a shroud.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ericeod* 
I gave up on the silenX fans after dropping ~$120 on a handful of their 120mm case fans, only to have them make way too much noise and fail on me. I think out of the five I ordered, only one of them made it a year, and they were too loud to be used in my case without running them with a shroud.

Look at the AIRFLOW on these!!!!


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChosenLord* 
Look at the AIRFLOW on these!!!!

+REP on those fans. looks interesting!


----------



## ericeod

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


Look at the AIRFLOW on these!!!!


Ha ha nice! I am actually going for a simplistic look with my Scout, so I am foregoing the fan controller and might be picking up quiet yet decent 140mm CFM fans. I am currently running the Kaze 5.25" fan controller with 1900 RPM S-Flex 120mm Scythe fans, but I run them at ~1300 24/7 on my current Megahalem. So I was looking at just picking up some 1200 RPM fans which can run full speed, or using the fan controller to each fan header via my R2E motherboard, I can set them to 50%, 60%, 70%, 80%, 90% or 100% fan speed. So I might also pick up some 1700 - 1900 140mm fans and go that route.

Here are the fans I am looking at:

XIGMATEK XLF Series XLF-F1455 140mm:: 1000RPM, 63.5 CFM with <16 dBA (I don't know if I believe those ratings)
Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPro PK-2:: 1200RPM, 54.73 CFM with 20 dBA
Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPro PK-3:: 1700RPM, 90.04 CFM with 27 dBA
Scythe Kaze Maru 2:: 1200RPM, 65.2 CFM with 23.2 dBA
Scythe Kaze Maru 2:: 1700RPM, 92.40 CFM with 36.4 dBA

Again, the high speed fans would be using the bios selectable fan speed control set to like ~70%.


----------



## shizdan

So I tried to clean my H50 and took off the block and all this fluid fell out so I killed it! so anyways I put my old Zalman CNPS10X on my processor and put 1.312V into it and my load for Intel Burn Test is 65c! compared to my H50 with the volts at 1.21 with 70c Load!


----------



## Ninja306

Thanks for the comments,

I had a look at the provided link provided by ChosenLord, the db levels seem high, I suppose its the compromise of cfm/db, but the Silenx Ixtrema pro 120x120x38 mm fan I quoted do not seem to be reliable, just thought the stats were good for them.

I also looked at the Scythe 38mm 120 which provide good cfm/reasonable db levels..

Its like looking for the holy grail..of fans, and its exhausting (scuse the pun)

'Haste ye back'


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ninja306*


Thanks for the comments,

I had a look at the provided link provided by ChosenLord, the db levels seem high, I suppose its the compromise of cfm/db, but the Silenx Ixtrema pro 120x120x38 mm fan I quoted do not seem to be reliable, just thought the stats were good for them.

I also looked at the Scythe 38mm 120 which provide good cfm/reasonable db levels..

Its like looking for the holy grail..of fans, and its exhausting (scuse the pun)

'Haste ye back'


Fan choice can be stressful, sooo many to choose from.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


What is the best way to remove a cooler that has Thermal Paste on it, and what needs to be done to clean it off? I have my new H50 siting on the porch at home waiting for me to get home to install it! YEA!!! Add me to the club!!!!


Hey Magus,

Get yourself some rubbing alcohol or what I use, some alco-wipes (non lint type). Alco wipes are the little swabs a doctor uses to swab your skin before an injection.

You should be able to pick so up at a chemist (drug store). They usually come in boxes of 100 and two or three swabs usually does the trick. be sure to get the lint free ones.

Just wipe the old TIM off, leave it to air dry - the alcohol should evaporate fairly quickly. Repeat the process if there is any residue.

Good to go









See pic <enc>

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ninja306*

I also looked at the Scythe 38mm 120 which provide good cfm/reasonable db levels..


Im using dual Scythe Ultra Kaze 2000 38mm in push / pull (intake). The noise doesnt seem to be an issue and they are doing a great job.


----------



## Sethy666

Ahhh... double post


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Fan choice can be stressful, sooo many to choose from.










That is the truth! I have seen a few that I wish I had got after I placed my order, but I really think I will be happy with the SCYTHE|S-FLEX SFF21Fs, I will know tonight or tomorrow after I get them, the new TIM and ponder then how to mount that little SCYTHE|SY124010 lol.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killer01ws6*


That is the truth! I have seen a few that I wish I had got after I placed my order, but I really think I will be happy with the SCYTHE|S-FLEX SFF21Fs, I will know tonight or tomorrow after I get them, the new TIM and ponder then how to mount that little SCYTHE|SY124010 lol.


Keep us posted man,









I am doing fine with my factory Corsair fan, but if I ever had to buy fans again I'd try some Gentle Typhoons.


----------



## ericeod

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killer01ws6*


That is the truth! I have seen a few that I wish I had got after I placed my order, but I really think I will be happy with the SCYTHE|S-FLEX SFF21Fs, I will know tonight or tomorrow after I get them, the new TIM and ponder then how to mount that little SCYTHE|SY124010 lol.


You will love the Scythe S-Flex! They are by far my favorite fans, and i have run the gambit of fans. I currently have 8 on my case now, with 2 in push/pull on my megahalem, 3 at the top of my case, and 3 mounted at various locations around the case (all using shrouds) and they are extremely quiet. I only have to run them at ~1250 RPM to keep my system cool.

But now that I am moving to a smaller case (Scout), I am looking to go 140mm with the H50.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
+REP on those fans. looks interesting!

Cheers mate, but don't thank me, it was a banner add at the top of this thread

Still on that site there is no indication on how to buy em?


----------



## ChosenLord

Some of the fans on that site have OUTSTANDING airflow/pressure and db level.

I think they are industrial fans but would be VERY suited to our needs,

They must cost a fortune,

I want LOTS OF THESE..........


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killer01ws6*


That is the truth! I have seen a few that I wish I had got after I placed my order, but I really think I will be happy with the SCYTHE|S-FLEX SFF21Fs, I will know tonight or tomorrow after I get them, the new TIM and ponder then how to mount that little SCYTHE|SY124010 lol.


Good choice. I have the very same fans in push pull with 2 X 25mm shrouds. Very happy with them...they pump through lots of air and are dead silent.

I did a lot of research on the question of fans and given my requirement to get the most for the least amount of noise I settled on 2 S-Flex SFF21F 1600 rpm fans. Running at 1600 rpm they make almost no noise and put out more airflow than the ultra kaze 3000 rpm dialed down to 7 volts and put out more static pressure than the ultra kaze 2000 rpm dialed down to 7 volts (i.e. to a tolerable noise level)......these in push/pull keep my 965 C3 (3.8Ghz) at 27 Idle and 43C load. Here is the link comparing these to the ultra 2000 and 3000 FYI: I can't attach the link directly but type in the following: "Overclock" then add "3d" then ".net"Then go to reviews/cases_cooling/scythe_ultra_kaze_120mm_fans/5


----------



## Swoosh19

i think more people here are using s-flex,,,maybe i'm going to find this fan also so i can do push pull on my h50 and put 2 more on the top of my 690


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Who has hit 4ghz on a i5 750 with the H50 and what were your temps on load?


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ericeod* 
I am going to be testing out this cooler with a pair of 140mm fans using these 120mm-to-140mm fan adpaters. The adapters will serve as a standoff (hopefully to reduce noice).

http://www.frozencpu.com/images/prod...ain/duc-49.jpg

This will be going into a CM Storm Scout case. I will be mounting the rad in push/pull on the top 140mm (has 120mm mounting as well) fan mount pulling air in from the top.

Now I just have to decide on the fans.

I bought 4 of those and made some attempts with 140mm fans but they were all great disappointments. Sticking with 120mm fans. Use only if you have to mount a 120mm fan to a 140mm fan mount location. Even the NB PK-3, which moves good amounts of air, didn't outperform a good 120mm fan.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ericeod* 
Ha ha nice! I am actually going for a simplistic look with my Scout, so I am foregoing the fan controller and might be picking up quiet yet decent 140mm CFM fans. I am currently running the Kaze 5.25" fan controller with 1900 RPM S-Flex 120mm Scythe fans, but I run them at ~1300 24/7 on my current Megahalem. So I was looking at just picking up some 1200 RPM fans which can run full speed, or using the fan controller to each fan header via my R2E motherboard, I can set them to 50%, 60%, 70%, 80%, 90% or 100% fan speed. So I might also pick up some 1700 - 1900 140mm fans and go that route.

Here are the fans I am looking at:

XIGMATEK XLF Series XLF-F1455 140mm:: 1000RPM, 63.5 CFM with <16 dBA (I don't know if I believe those ratings)
Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPro PK-2:: 1200RPM, 54.73 CFM with 20 dBA
Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPro PK-3:: 1700RPM, 90.04 CFM with 27 dBA
Scythe Kaze Maru 2:: 1200RPM, 65.2 CFM with 23.2 dBA
Scythe Kaze Maru 2:: 1700RPM, 92.40 CFM with 36.4 dBA

Again, the high speed fans would be using the bios selectable fan speed control set to like ~70%.

NB PK-3... Much louder than they are spec'ed at. Turned me off of Noiseblocker for life. They don't get quiet until below 1000rpm. They have a growl that is irritating. Have these currently as my roof fans but they will be gone soon, never to be heard from again! Big disappointment noise wise, for the price.

Kaze Maru... much, much quieter than the NB, and they bolt right up with no adapters. Static is not great with or without the 140mm adapter. Good as a push fan (if you have a healthy pull fan) because they cover a larger area of the rad. 1200rpm for a quiet system, 1700rpm perform better but a bit louder, but still very good noise wise and quieter than the NB.

S-Flex 1600rpm... Very nice fan. Good static, build quality, noise. If I were you I would strap your 1900s on and be happy. Has a large motor hub so shrouds are recommended.


----------



## R1P5AW

For sale









http://www.overclock.net/cooling-pro...d-2-weeks.html


----------



## Jocelyn84

I just picked up a brand new Silverstone FT02 from another forum, and while I've only been running Prime for maybe an hour or so, my temps with the H50 have dropped about 10 degrees compared to my Antec 902.

I'll post with more accurate results in the morning!


----------



## ericeod

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
I bought 4 of those and made some attempts with 140mm fans but they were all great disappointments. Sticking with 120mm fans. Use only if you have to mount a 120mm fan to a 140mm fan mount location. Even the NB PK-3, which moves good amounts of air, didn't outperform a good 120mm fan.

NB PK-3... Much louder than they are spec'ed at. Turned me off of Noiseblocker for life. They don't get quiet until below 1000rpm. They have a growl that is irritating. Have these currently as my roof fans but they will be gone soon, never to be heard from again! Big disappointment noise wise, for the price.

Kaze Maru... much, much quieter than the NB, and they bolt right up with no adapters. Static is not great with or without the 140mm adapter. Good as a push fan (if you have a healthy pull fan) because they cover a larger area of the rad. 1200rpm for a quiet system, 1700rpm perform better but a bit louder, but still very good noise wise and quieter than the NB.

S-Flex 1600rpm... Very nice fan. Good static, build quality, noise. If I were you I would strap your 1900s on and be happy. Has a large motor hub so shrouds are recommended.

Thanks for the invaluable input. I was hoping to find some nice 140mm fans to outperform the 120mm, but it sounds like I am just spinning my wheels when I already have 8 Scythe S-Flex 1900s.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast*


Who has hit 4ghz on a i5 750 with the H50 and what were your temps on load?


ME!!

Idle (nothing running) 31c max
load (AdobeAfterEffects-Coding) 65c max
IntelBurnTest - 75c max


----------



## yellowtoblerone

for my 920 1.29 v:

idle 55c
50% stressed while folding gpu = 60-62c
65-80% stressed while folding cpu as well = 69-72c

For this reason I put my old black true on. It's lapped and I've gotten much better idle and stressed. While cpu folding atm I'm getting max 61c.

Maybe it's because of the high idle temp.


----------



## lrk322

hi man are you useing pull and puch on the H50


----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


ME!!

Idle (nothing running) 31c max
load (AdobeAfterEffects-Coding) 65c max
IntelBurnTest - 75c max


Want your highest temps?

Run LinX 20 runs problem size 25,000


----------



## leppie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Im using dual Scythe Ultra Kaze 2000 38mm in push / pull (intake). The noise doesnt seem to be an issue and they are doing a great job.


I'm getting a pair of those too







The 2000RPM ones seems quite 'silent' compared to the 3k ones.

How do they undervolt/run under PWM?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


Some of the fans on that site have OUTSTANDING airflow/pressure and db level.

I think they are industrial fans but would be VERY suited to our needs,

They must cost a fortune,

I want LOTS OF THESE..........


There are better ones than ADDA, like ebm-papst. But for most, noise is too high for PC use.


----------



## lrk322

Delta FFB1212VHE 120x38mm 1.5A they blow like the wind 160+ CFM


----------



## ggmyman

been thinking about getting this


----------



## R1P5AW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ggmyman*


been thinking about getting this


It's over-hyped


----------



## lrk322

look at this Koolance 120x25mm #12025HBK

0.28A-2600RPM-107.6CFM-32.80dBA/that at Max settings and cheap


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leppie*


I'm getting a pair of those too







The 2000RPM ones seems quite 'silent' compared to the 3k ones.

How do they undervolt/run under PWM?


Hey Leppie, They are a nice fan. I think my GPU cooler is louder than these guys









I have no idea how they undervolt to be honest. Since the are on my rad - they are going 100% all the time.


----------



## Magus2727

a PWM fan pulses the 12V so it has a duty cycle. the frequency is fast enough that you can not tell any pulsing but its effective in controlling the fan. A PWM fan has extra circuitry to take the signal pulse provided by the MB or fan controller and turn on and off the 12V at the fan. This makes them a lot more efficient


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lrk322*


hi man are you useing pull and puch on the H50


Yeah man, 2xApache Blacks.










Quote:



Originally Posted by *R1P5AW*


Want your highest temps?

Run LinX 20 runs problem size 25,000


Highest EVER recorded was Encoding a huge AfterEffects file and that hit 81c and i was freaking out!! but with IntelBT after 25 runs 75c is the highest and with prime around the same, my room fluctuates in ambient temps too, so i have a thermometer on my wall near my pc, (not too close) and at night i get my room to around 15c and during the day with the sun it can get to 27c but this never causes me a problem.


----------



## killer01ws6

*Update*
I changed the direction of airflow from intake to exhaust last night,
Went from the single stock corsair fan to the push pull 2 S-Flex SFF21F 1600 rpm fans,
took off the OCZ Oczfrztc Freeze Extreme, cleaned well and put on Masscool G751 Shin-Etsu..

*Results*
Well, I had said if I could go exhaust and get equal too I would be happy and I guess I am, but I was hoping for a bit more.. with my OC 4.043 and lynx during a 20 pass test, I still hit 83C for a few sec on core one, but over all it maybe a tad cooler.. I was at 70* in my PC room and earlier when stressing I think it was in the 66-68* range.

ROTFL,
Fans.. Well these new fans MOVE some air, but silent they are not! In my Haf 932 my over all noise doubled with these fans.... Now that gives you an idea just how quiet my system was before, it really was near silent till those 5870s spooled up in heavy use... now... I have twice the base noise as before.. but it is not loud at all, I just lost my "Is that thing even on?" status.

"Thoughts"
I know that Shin-Etsu has no cure time, but maybe After a few cycles of use and cool down I may see a bit more performance gain from this mod, I know that the TIM was just enough in the syringe, I would have liked a hair more... they don't give you much for the $10.00 it cost for it!
My Camera was MIA and I took some sad IPhone pics but if someone wants to see them I can post them.

I will post one more followup on temps after the weekend of Gaming an finishing up Bioshock2 lol.


----------



## jameschisholm

I'm thinking of going down the i7 930 4Ghz OC route, and choosing a H50 with 2x Akasa Apache Black 120mm Fans in a push/pull config.

Going to subscribe to this thread to see lrk322's results!


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jameschisholm* 
I'm thinking of going down the i7 930 4Ghz OC route, and choosing a H50 with 2x Akasa Apache Black 120mm Fans in a push/pull config.

Going to subscribe to this thread to see lrk322's results!









Hey man, they are decent fans i've just got 4 of em, they dont push MEGA air but are very quiet and and work well with my H-50, I picked up a nesteq fan controller too, its done wonders for my temps!!


----------



## jameschisholm

Well tbh if theyre better than stock corsair fans, its a win win situation. Anyone had a bad experience with the H50? it's on par with the latest noctua and megahalems right?


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*


Well tbh if theyre better than stock corsair fans, its a win win situation. Anyone had a bad experience with the H50? it's on par with the latest noctua and megahalems right?


Testing in this thread and reviews put it between them.
you will be please with it.


----------



## overquad

Hey guys Just installed an h50, wondered if anyone here knows how i can get extra screws to add a fan????


----------



## Killhouse

You can get them at any home hardware store, they are 6-32 threaded, just choose the length you need


----------



## Magus2727

Best way to wire the H50?

I just got my H50 the other day but due to a HD failure I wont have an OS for proper temp vewing and good CPU loading till next week but want to get my cooling all button down before that.

On my board I have 2 4-pin PWM fan headers and 3 3-pin. My 4-pin are CPU and System_1_Fan. Then I have a Power, System_2_Fan and NB header that are the 3 pin type. Right now I have the Fan on the CPU and the Pump on the power header (since the fan is a 4 pin and the pump is a 3 pin.) In the BIOS I have turned off all smart fan sensing and my pump shows about 1400 rpm and the fan is 1700 rpm.

So question, Do these speeds look right? Should I hook the fan / pump up differently?

Thanks!


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:


Originally Posted by *overquad* 
Hey guys Just installed an h50, wondered if anyone here knows how i can get extra screws to add a fan????


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
You can get them at any home hardware store, they are 6-32 threaded, just choose the length you need









Killhouse beat me too it. 

but seeing I have not had time to get to the hardware store.. for me I mounted 2 screws diagonally outside and then same thing for the other two on the inside, holds very strongly... I will be at least adding 2 more on the outside as they hold the weight of the entire setup.


----------



## buste2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Best way to wire the H50?

I just got my H50 the other day but due to a HD failure I wont have an OS for proper temp vewing and good CPU loading till next week but want to get my cooling all button down before that.

On my board I have 2 4-pin PWM fan headers and 3 3-pin. My 4-pin are CPU and System_1_Fan. Then I have a Power, System_2_Fan and NB header that are the 3 pin type. Right now I have the Fan on the CPU and the Pump on the power header (since the fan is a 4 pin and the pump is a 3 pin.) In the BIOS I have turned off all smart fan sensing and my pump shows about 1400 rpm and the fan is 1700 rpm.

So question, Do these speeds look right? Should I hook the fan / pump up differently?

Thanks!


you are perfectly fine. pump is rated at 1450rpm stock and the corsair fan is rated at 1650rpm also i believe.


----------



## yellowtoblerone

No doubt it's a bit overrated. I had yateloon medium highs on push pulls and it still gave me crap temps. I figure it maybe due to lack of power from the pump, I duno.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Best way to wire the H50?

I just got my H50 the other day but due to a HD failure I wont have an OS for proper temp vewing and good CPU loading till next week but want to get my cooling all button down before that.

On my board I have 2 4-pin PWM fan headers and 3 3-pin. My 4-pin are CPU and System_1_Fan. Then I have a Power, System_2_Fan and NB header that are the 3 pin type. Right now I have the Fan on the CPU and the Pump on the power header (since the fan is a 4 pin and the pump is a 3 pin.) In the BIOS I have turned off all smart fan sensing and my pump shows about 1400 rpm and the fan is 1700 rpm.

So question, Do these speeds look right? Should I hook the fan / pump up differently?

Thanks!


Those speeds are fine, however if you can hook up the pump to your PSU via a molex connector, much better


----------



## NoahDiamond

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


What fluid were you using? I would remove the board from the case and take a close look at it and try to clean it with elec cleaner or with some alcohol. I did that to my E758a while back and it worked fine. However about 8 months down the line I had a RAM slot go, but I don't think it was because of that.


I was using the Corsair H50 stock, unmodified, with the included fluid. Essentially, antifreeze.

I just replaced the board. I said the heck with it. It runs fine, and I cleaned, it, but I ordered an identical board and installed it. I run my 5970 with A GT 240 for Physx.

The old board is cleaned up. The old water block unit has a RMA number. When it is returned, I will offer it for sale here. Lets say... $60, for a new unit. The Motherboard was a DFI Lanparty X48 T2R with the Flame Freezer. The new board seems to be OK. I cleaned up my 5970 since I sure as heck am not shelling out all that money to replace it. I figured, the board can be replaced at $129.99 plus $2.99 shipping.

I want the insides of my machine to be TOP NOTCH, and I refuse to take any chances.

The old board works fine, and the new cooler will be BRAND NEW.

I also have a BFG GTX 295 I am selling that is brand new if anyone wants it.

Shoot me a private messages with what you want to pay for these things, and I will make a heck of a deal for you. The GTX 295 was a RMA return from BFG Tech. It has been run for 4 hours to test the stability of my old board just in case, otherwise, it has not been used.

I have an RMA for the board as well in the works, just in case... so if you all want to wait, I will have a Corsair H50 Water Block, a DFI Lanparty UT X48 T2R DDR2 board, and a GTX 295, all for sale with warranties.

Anyway, the new cooler is working great, and the new board has not failed the stability test yet. It is running now.

I would get a Fermi board, but I know my HD 5970 will out perform a single Fermi card, and I still have Physx support in hardware.

I also have a MSI P45 Platinum made for Overclocking Core 2 Duo CPUs beyond the 2000MHz FSB. I ran my E8200 at over 4GHZ with a 2008FSB, and it ran perfect. The box even says designed for a 2008MHZ FSB.

With all the nVidia scandals, the GTX 295 being pulled from production due to nVidia losing money on them, and the massive amount of CUDA emulation, I think I will stick with ATI as the primary and nVidia for backwards compatibility.

I would get an i7 board and CPU, but my overclocks are fast enough as they are, and I like the Core 2 architecture as it consumes less power and produces less heat. Maybe when the i9 comes out and i7 prices fall dramatically, I may consider, but right now, the lower latency, higher clocks and overall performance of the machine is more than I could ever use.

I thought about using the GTX 295 as a Physx board, but that would be overkill like nuking an ant pile.

My goal is to build a PC with the highest performance per power consumption. It is a hard task, but it is worth it in the end because it runs cooler, uses more broad spectrum proven technology, and allows me to expand.

I used to be a nVidia fan boy at heart, but now I have lost the faith. Yes, the GTX 480 is faster than the 5870, but if you overclock a GTX 480, it WILL overheat, where the 5870 takes it and asks for more.

I wonder why there are no benchmarks that go into detail about the GTX 480 vs the HD 5970. They both consume the same amount of power, they both run the same features... And the 5970, despite what many thing, is not 2 5870s in Crossfire on one board. It is two GPUs working together and the memory can be shared with almost no latency.

If I hold on to my GTX 295, it will become a relic of times passed, and in the years to come, it will be valuable. I know my Voodoo 5 5500 AGP has value, as it is mint condition.

No, my 3dfx cards are not for sale. They are my shrine to 3dfx. I have EVERY 3dfx product ever produced. I know, I have a mental illness, but it's so much fun building an old Athlon 1200 and dropping in the 5500, just for nostalgia.

If nVidia released a 3dfx edition, I would buy it, if only to show my grandchildren what it was like when I was growing up. I'm sure they will have much better game consoles...

But really, 3dfx started the 3D PC accelerator business as we know it today.

I will keep you posted. Let me know if anyone wants to acquire any of these parts.

I still say the IBM Monochrome Display Adapter (MDA) was the most powerful graphics card on the planet, and the Atari Pong console was the best console ever.

Also, Oxygen is over-rated, and boobs are more important.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killer01ws6*


"Thoughts"
I know that Shin-Etsu has no cure time, but maybe After a few cycles of use and cool down I may see a bit more performance gain from this mod, I know that the TIM was just enough in the syringe, I would have liked a hair more... they don't give you much for the $10.00 it cost for it!
My Camera was MIA and I took some sad IPhone pics but if someone wants to see them I can post them.

I will post one more followup on temps after the weekend of Gaming an finishing up Bioshock2 lol.


TIMs like Shin Etsu do like a few heat cycles to settle in to all the little dips and crevices. Keep an eye on it over the next few days.

Send your photos - we love eye candy









Good luck with your gaming


----------



## shizdan

I just bought 2 Gentle Typhoon High Speeds and was wondering...should I spend the extra money and get 2 of these shrouds?

Link


----------



## buste2

those look nice...a bit pricey though lol

i am getting ready to sell my GT's...they're just too loud for me =(


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shizdan*


I just bought 2 Gentle Typhoon High Speeds and was wondering...should I spend the extra money and get 2 of these shrouds?

Link


I'd just make some. Take a couple old 120mm fans and clip out the blades, sand smooth (should you be truly OCD like myself) and you're good to go


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


I'd just make some. Take a couple old 120mm fans and clip out the blades, sand smooth (should you be truly OCD like myself) and you're good to go










Agreed.

I made a few for other uses but it took me like 10 minutes to cut the middle section out and smooth it with my Dremel.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NoahDiamond*


I was using the Corsair H50 stock, unmodified, with the included fluid. Essentially, antifreeze.

I just replaced the board. I said the heck with it. It runs fine, and I cleaned, it, but I ordered an identical board and installed it. I run my 5970 with A GT 240 for Physx.

The old board is cleaned up. The old water block unit has a RMA number. When it is returned, I will offer it for sale here. Lets say... $60, for a new unit. The Motherboard was a DFI Lanparty X48 T2R with the Flame Freezer. The new board seems to be OK. I cleaned up my 5970 since I sure as heck am not shelling out all that money to replace it. I figured, the board can be replaced at $129.99 plus $2.99 shipping.

I want the insides of my machine to be TOP NOTCH, and I refuse to take any chances.

The old board works fine, and the new cooler will be BRAND NEW.

I also have a BFG GTX 295 I am selling that is brand new if anyone wants it.

Shoot me a private messages with what you want to pay for these things, and I will make a heck of a deal for you. The GTX 295 was a RMA return from BFG Tech. It has been run for 4 hours to test the stability of my old board just in case, otherwise, it has not been used.

I have an RMA for the board as well in the works, just in case... so if you all want to wait, I will have a Corsair H50 Water Block, a DFI Lanparty UT X48 T2R DDR2 board, and a GTX 295, all for sale with warranties.

Anyway, the new cooler is working great, and the new board has not failed the stability test yet. It is running now.

I would get a Fermi board, but I know my HD 5970 will out perform a single Fermi card, and I still have Physx support in hardware.

I also have a MSI P45 Platinum made for Overclocking Core 2 Duo CPUs beyond the 2000MHz FSB. I ran my E8200 at over 4GHZ with a 2008FSB, and it ran perfect. The box even says designed for a 2008MHZ FSB.

With all the nVidia scandals, the GTX 295 being pulled from production due to nVidia losing money on them, and the massive amount of CUDA emulation, I think I will stick with ATI as the primary and nVidia for backwards compatibility.

I would get an i7 board and CPU, but my overclocks are fast enough as they are, and I like the Core 2 architecture as it consumes less power and produces less heat. Maybe when the i9 comes out and i7 prices fall dramatically, I may consider, but right now, the lower latency, higher clocks and overall performance of the machine is more than I could ever use.

I thought about using the GTX 295 as a Physx board, but that would be overkill like nuking an ant pile.

My goal is to build a PC with the highest performance per power consumption. It is a hard task, but it is worth it in the end because it runs cooler, uses more broad spectrum proven technology, and allows me to expand.

I used to be a nVidia fan boy at heart, but now I have lost the faith. Yes, the GTX 480 is faster than the 5870, but if you overclock a GTX 480, it WILL overheat, where the 5870 takes it and asks for more.

I wonder why there are no benchmarks that go into detail about the GTX 480 vs the HD 5970. They both consume the same amount of power, they both run the same features... And the 5970, despite what many thing, is not 2 5870s in Crossfire on one board. It is two GPUs working together and the memory can be shared with almost no latency.

If I hold on to my GTX 295, it will become a relic of times passed, and in the years to come, it will be valuable. I know my Voodoo 5 5500 AGP has value, as it is mint condition.

No, my 3dfx cards are not for sale. They are my shrine to 3dfx. I have EVERY 3dfx product ever produced. I know, I have a mental illness, but it's so much fun building an old Athlon 1200 and dropping in the 5500, just for nostalgia.

If nVidia released a 3dfx edition, I would buy it, if only to show my grandchildren what it was like when I was growing up. I'm sure they will have much better game consoles...

But really, 3dfx started the 3D PC accelerator business as we know it today.

I will keep you posted. Let me know if anyone wants to acquire any of these parts.

I still say the IBM Monochrome Display Adapter (MDA) was the most powerful graphics card on the planet, and the Atari Pong console was the best console ever.

Also, Oxygen is over-rated, and boobs are more important.


Well glad you are RMA'ing what you can and replaced what you were able to. This way you have no worries whatsoever, good move if you were able to at ATM. I would pick up the parts, but I just wasted the money I had saved up







. Anyhow, good luck with your sale bro.


----------



## Wyseman76

Well I registered here after doing a lot of research on the H50. I bought one and am happy to say I will add this bad boy to every build I do for all my friends. The temps I have now over air cooling are great.

My temps idle are about 31 and under load 44/45. I did run the prime95 torture test and it peaked at 50 but settled in at 48. Gaming though in bad company 2 for example I never see over 45. Before with the air cooler the chip was hitting 60 to 62 easy in game and failed the torture test within minutes.

Also i'm only running one 120 fan in the pull alignment to exhaust out of the case I do plan to add a second push tomorrow.

Count me down as a very excited and pleased member of the H50 club.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shizdan*


I just bought 2 Gentle Typhoon High Speeds and was wondering...should I spend the extra money and get 2 of these shrouds?

Link



Yep but dont buy man... see my link to make them... way cheaper


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wyseman76*


Well I registered here after doing a lot of research on the H50. I bought one and am happy to say I will add this bad boy to every build I do for all my friends. The temps I have now over air cooling are great.

My temps idle are about 31 and under load 44/45. I did run the prime95 torture test and it peaked at 50 but settled in at 48. Gaming though in bad company 2 for example I never see over 45. Before with the air cooler the chip was hitting 60 to 62 easy in game and failed the torture test within minutes.

Also i'm only running one 120 fan in the pull alignment to exhaust out of the case I do plan to add a second push tomorrow.

Count me down as a very excited and pleased member of the H50 club.


Glad you like it man, mostly everybody who buys one falls in love with the cooler bro









Push and Pull configuration should give you a nice decrease in temps. Get us a pic or two of the build dude


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *buste2* 
those look nice...a bit pricey though lol

i am getting ready to sell my GT's...they're just too loud for me =(

Add some shrouds and they will be quieter.


----------



## Sast

Hi Guys,

I'm looking at getting of these in the coming months, however I'll be using an Antec 1200...what is it like to mount in one of these? I heard rumours that it's a nightmare with the already installed exhaust fans?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sast*


Hi Guys,

I'm looking at getting of these in the coming months, however I'll be using an Antec 1200...what is it like to mount in one of these? I heard rumours that it's a nightmare with the already installed exhaust fans?


Dead simple, just mount the radiator onto one of those fans, and add the Corsair fan afterwards


----------



## Sast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Dead simple, just mount the radiator onto one of those fans, and add the Corsair fan afterwards










I heard the radiator overlaps the 2nd fan by doing this?

would that be a big issue?

Also - will the stock antec fan along with the corsair fan be sufficient? i was thinking about using 2 akasa apace fans with a shroud

As somebody posted on my other post: fan/radiator/shroud/fan

what do you suggest?


----------



## buste2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Add some shrouds and they will be quieter.


i would but that means i would have to mount 1 fan outside the case









i want a clean setup lol yeah i know OCD


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *buste2* 
i would but that means i would have to mount 1 fan outside the case









i want a clean setup lol yeah i know OCD









If you don't have room for two then put one on the pull fan.

Edit: and forget the the airbox since it's too deep, just use an old fan.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *buste2* 
i would but that means i would have to mount 1 fan outside the case









i want a clean setup lol yeah i know OCD









Do you have enough room to keep both shrouds in the case but just have the fan out side? You can get some sort of slick grill to put on it to keep it looking clean. I dont think a 120mm fan is going to make it looks not clean, I think it would add some flair.


----------



## buste2

right now I have it setup as Fan<Rad<Fan inside the case. I have about an inch of space between the fan and the pump.

So the only choice I would have is:

with 1 shroud

Fan|Case|Rad<Shroud<Fan or Fan|Case|Shroud<Rad<Fan (forgot which way was best)

with 2 shrouds

Fan<Shroud|Case|Rad<Shroud<Fan


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sast* 
I heard the radiator overlaps the 2nd fan by doing this?

would that be a big issue?

Also - will the stock antec fan along with the corsair fan be sufficient? i was thinking about using 2 akasa apace fans with a shroud

As somebody posted on my other post: fan/radiator/shroud/fan

what do you suggest?

It may well overlap but not by much, and it wont matter too much. If there is space you can add a shroud, and you can easily replace both the fans with your Akasa's.


----------



## jameschisholm

These Yate Loons are 28db, the Akasa Apache Blacks are 16db, is the difference really that noticeable noise wise?

Yate loons
Akasa AK-FN058 Apache Black

Edit: After further research anything under 30 db is quiet enough to be not heard much.


----------



## buste2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jameschisholm* 
These Yate Loons are 28db, the Akasa Apache Blacks are 16db, is the difference really that noticeable noise wise?

Yate loons
Akasa AK-FN058 Apache Black

dam those Akasa look nice! i should have gotten those...









any idea how those rate against the GT's?


----------



## jameschisholm

Sharkoon Silent Eagle 2000's These seem even better 76 CFM & 36 Decibels, wonder if that extra 8db is much different from the yates?

Edit: because they're 2000 rpm and 36 db, most reviewers are saying they are NOT silent at full speed, but fan controlled work great.

Best to get the Yate loons?


----------



## Sast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *buste2* 
right now I have it setup as Fan<Rad<Fan inside the case. I have about an inch of space between the fan and the pump.

So the only choice I would have is:

with 1 shroud

Fan|Case|Rad<Shroud<Fan or Fan|Case|Shroud<Rad<Fan (forgot which way was best)

with 2 shrouds

Fan<Shroud|Case|Rad<Shroud<Fan


I have been pondering the use of a fan on the outside of the case, however what mesh / bracket do you guys use over it? as an open blade is quite dangerous


----------



## buste2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sast* 
I have been pondering the use of a fan on the outside of the case, however what mesh / bracket do you guys use over it? as an open blade is quite dangerous

well currently I have it setup as exhaust so i have a grill already protecting it. it's just the fact that i don't like the fan hanging outside the case lol

here's what i am using that came with my case

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/26...Fan_Grill.html


----------



## Sast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *buste2*


well currently I have it setup as exhaust so i have a grill already protecting it. it's just the fact that i don't like the fan hanging outside the case lol

here's what i am using that came with my case

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/26...Fan_Grill.html


If I can help it I will be having everything inside the case, I have the Antec 1200 so that shouldn't be a problem...as it's HUGE.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*


These Yate Loons are 28db, the Akasa Apache Blacks are 16db, is the difference really that noticeable noise wise?

Yate loons
Akasa AK-FN058 Apache Black 

Edit: After further research anything under 30 db is quiet enough to be not heard much.


every 3dB is twice the sound level of the previous level, so difference is 12dB.

That means that Yate Loons are 2^4 times louder then Apache Blacks....going from 16 to 28dB is a large difference.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wyseman76*


Well I registered here after doing a lot of research on the H50. I bought one and am happy to say I will add this bad boy to every build I do for all my friends. The temps I have now over air cooling are great.

My temps idle are about 31 and under load 44/45. I did run the prime95 torture test and it peaked at 50 but settled in at 48. Gaming though in bad company 2 for example I never see over 45. Before with the air cooler the chip was hitting 60 to 62 easy in game and failed the torture test within minutes.

Also i'm only running one 120 fan in the pull alignment to exhaust out of the case I do plan to add a second push tomorrow.

Count me down as a very excited and pleased member of the H50 club.



For comparison, with 2 X SFF21F S-Flex 1600 rpm fans in push pull as follows fan<shroud<rad<shroud<fan at 20C ambient temp on a 965 C3 at 3.8ghz (1.35 v) I get 27 C idle and 43 C max temp after 3 hours Prime 95 blended test.


----------



## teaston

Well, for anyone interested, I have got the CM Excaliber and installed it.

Idle temps have gone down from 41/42 degrees c with standard fan to 37/38.

Both with a 1 fan rear exhaust (push) set up, running at 660rpm.

Can't really compare load temps as this is a 2000rpm fan.


----------



## kcuestag

Hello,

So far:

- Phenom II x4 965 Black Edition Rev "C3" @ 3,9GHz - 1,36v

Iddle: 33-34ÂºC
Full: 47ÂºC with Linx over 30 minutes

I think they're pretty nice.

Now my question is, I have the H50 rad installed in the back of the HAF 932, on the rear fan. Anyone tried it on top of the case instead? Maybe it would get less heat from the HD5970? Anyone ever tried this and succeeded?

Thanks.


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Hello,

So far:

- Phenom II x4 965 Black Edition Rev "C3" @ 3,9GHz - 1,36v

Iddle: 33-34ÂºC
Full: 47ÂºC with Linx over 30 minutes

I think they're pretty nice.

Now my question is, I have the H50 rad installed in the back of the HAF 932, on the rear fan. Anyone tried it on top of the case instead? Maybe it would get less heat from the HD5970? Anyone ever tried this and succeeded?

Thanks.

I have seen several folks mount it on the top, not on a Haf932 though., But here in this thread one is mounted in the front in the unused Drive bays. I would thing that is better than loosing my 230fan at the top! That fan really helps pull overall heat out of the case.
When I had my H50 installed for in take I could really feel the heat coming up towards me from that top fan, now that it is on push/pull out the back... very cool out the top fan.


----------



## teaston

The CM Excaliber is working even better now, exactly same set up but i'm now getting 34/35 degrees c idle!







And completely silent.
At 7 degrees c cooler than the standard fan, this really is looking like a very good fan if anyone wants a proper PWM fan for their radiator.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *buste2*


dam those Akasa look nice! i should have gotten those...









any idea how those rate against the GT's?


Man they are good fans, but... I've been doing a lot of shopping round and they ahd the best ariflow/noise level, but.... and again they are not the best for the h-50 if anything they are too slow, VERY VERY quiet, i got 4 and you can't hear them at all!! especially on 6v

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


every 3dB is twice the sound level of the previous level, so difference is 12dB.

That means that Yate Loons are 2^4 times louder then Apache Blacks....going from 16 to 28dB is a large difference.


for sure, I'm getting the 800d on monday but before i do i'm going to be doing a quick Fan review for the h-50,

Below are the fans i own and are testing (i know i have too many fans!) but i'm in the search for the BEST for this h-50, anyways.

NB-MultiframeÂ® S-Series M12-P









Akasa Super silent APACHE BLACK 12cm









Corsair Stock 1700rpm H-50 Fan









and the Cooler Master CM-690 case Fans.









These are the conditions:

Push/pull (fan/case/rad/fan) - Intake (rear)

Below is my rig, I'm also using 2x120mm fans on the top of the case as exhaust.

I'll be posting my results within an hour or 2.

I hope this can Put ppls mind to rest, I know i'm not definitely testing all the fans, but it would've been useful to me if someone did this when i was thinking of buying some new fans or H-50.

*Ok so bare in Mind that i'm oc'n an i5 750 to 4ghz with 1.37v*


----------



## HandBanana

OOoOoh can I join?


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HandBanana* 
OOoOoh can I join?









Trains leaving the Station... All Aboard!!


----------



## shizdan

Before all my parts get here I want to see how to mount my H50 setup.

Ill be running it as










I dont know which way to run it either (Intake Or Exhaust). Corsair Recommends intake but I don't think heat build up would be a huge issue due to my 200MM exhaust fan on the top of my case.

Now I don't think I will have alot of room to fit all that in my sniper so was wondering what I should do.....heres a reference picture I found from anohter user with an H50 and a sniper.









Here is what I ordered for the setup...

-4x High speed Scythe Gentle Typhoons (Just using 2 for extras)
-2x Tecnofront AirBox 120
-4x Silicone Fan Gasket 120mm


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shizdan* 
Before all my parts get here I want to see how to mount my H50 setup.

Ill be running it as










I dont know which way to run it either (Intake Or Exhaust). Corsair Recommends intake but I don't think heat build up would be a huge issue due to my 200MM exhaust fan on the top of my case.

Mount it in the front 5-1/4 bays as intake.


----------



## Magus2727

Most people do ^^^ above ^^^ when running as intake. remember though was was the main heat generator in your case with a regular air cooler? its the CPU, you will see a drop in case temp so in your option 1, should not be a few Deg C higher then the ambient air temp. Unless you have 3-4 high end video cards running also... My case temp dropped 5-6*C installing my H50.


----------



## ChosenLord

Alright,

I'm pleased with the results.

Well i'm going to list the key:

Idle: (5min no activity from start up)
Load: (ibt x 5 Standard stress)
Room temp: 20-24 (window open/closed)

Right well I'm going to list em in order of expense to me!

NB-MultiframeÂ® S-Series M12-P = 25Euro Each.

Results: Idle 33c / Load 78c

Akasa Super silent APACHE BLACK 12cm = 20Euro Each.

Results: Idle 37c / Load 83c

Corsair Stock 1700rpm H-50 Fan = FREE with the H-50

Results: Idle 39c / Load 89c (worry)

And this is where i pretty much gave up after fear of going into the 90's with the CM-690 stock fans, well its conclusive. to me at least that the more you spend the better results you get!

But on a more truthful note the NB-MultiframeÂ® S-Series M12-P are amazing. and i fully mean that, the compete rubber corners are just so sexy! and it means you can screw them in plush to the case for less airflow loss. I think they'd go well with a shroud too.

hey ho. at least i've got a **** load of fans to massacre now!


----------



## Magus2727

Cut out the fan part and the cross supports and now you have a shroud. expensive ones.... Or you can fab up a custom set up that takes 2 x 12cm fans and plumbs them into one 12cm fan location... that would be sick!


----------



## miyo

Late add


----------



## whoisron

hey guys i got a question about how to apply thermal paste with the corsair h50, when applying thermal paste i would put the paste on the cpu either in the center size of a grain of rice or maybe even the line or X method, right?
My question would be even when i secure my cpu cooler block unit with the mounting brackets and all i can still twist the block back n forth even when its securely fastened will twisting the block back n forth help spread the paste or would it make it worse or cause no effect?

Thanks guys.


----------



## Killhouse

A small twist of a couple of millimetres is good, no more though


----------



## shizdan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
A small twist of a couple of millimetres is good, no more though









I usually counted like 5 twists a piece on each screw in an X fashion.....is that bad?


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Mount it in the front 5-1/4 bays as intake.

just to help & view of, here's a pic of, one of my Storm case's_prototype-pic's,
when i was modding/building/sizing/unfinished, to fit . . .

1= overall setup & modd's - pic
2= overview of install'd on tray for 5.25 slot
3= close-up of (showing with temp. bolt's/ will cutdown l8r)
4= complete'd to check for install into case
5= instll'd & lock'd in >>> FIT's Like a charm ! !







<<<

....hope these pic's give ya some idea of and a good view for ...









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Jocelyn84

Finally got some shots of mine! I need some better lighting








Btw, are my GT 15's okay running vertically vs horizontally like before? I've lost about 7-10 degrees under LinX/P95 after switching from an Antec 902.


----------



## AMelvin

Has anyone taken one of these apart to see what they can be modified with or into? A reservoir or maybe second rad added into system??


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
just to help & view of, here's a pic of, one of my Storm case's_prototype-pic's,
when i was modding/building/sizing/unfinished, to fit . . .

1= overall setup & modd's - pic
2= overview of install'd on tray for 5.25 slot
3= close-up of (showing with temp. bolt's/ will cutdown l8r)
4= complete'd to check for install into case
5= instll'd & lock'd in >>> FIT's Like a charm ! !







<<<

....hope these pic's give ya some idea of and a good view for ...









mr-Charles .









.

Where did you pick up that nifty bracket to mount in the 5 1/4 bay?


----------



## Defiler

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AMelvin* 
Has anyone taken one of these apart to see what they can be modified with or into? A reservoir or maybe second rad added into system??

Yes. A number of pages back you will see a res being used and then some.


----------



## spectre023

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AMelvin* 
Has anyone taken one of these apart to see what they can be modified with or into? A reservoir or maybe second rad added into system??

click the link in my sig









240 rad with dangerden bay res.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
just to help & view of, here's a pic of, one of my Storm case's_prototype-pic's,
when i was modding/building/sizing/unfinished, to fit . . .

1= overall setup & modd's - pic
2= overview of install'd on tray for 5.25 slot
3= close-up of (showing with temp. bolt's/ will cutdown l8r)
4= complete'd to check for install into case
5= instll'd & lock'd in >>> FIT's Like a charm ! !







<<<

....hope these pic's give ya some idea of and a good view for ...









mr-Charles .









.

thats neat strategy and settings!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84* 
Finally got some shots of mine! I need some better lighting








Btw, are my GT 15's okay running vertically vs horizontally like before? I've lost about 7-10 degrees under LinX/P95 after switching from an Antec 902.



















YEAH , there is neat set up!


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
Where did you pick up that nifty bracket to mount in the 5 1/4 bay?


.....I made it from a scrap piece . . . . here's a pic of the bottom side of and you can see
for my "bending" for one side to make fit Perfectly & the "dimple's" for which i had placed
for the space needed/allow'd for the bottom of the screw's;[which i thread'd the plate to take]
This would let fit with no prob of hitting bottom of Bay slot/Top of HHD......
{ screw's were actually 4(ea) of type for PSU , just ground down excess;
also, had to put in the "Side-hole's" on one side, for the Bay_Locking Pin's
to be access'd when you "Lock-in"....







}

EDIT = thnx, GAMERIG . . .

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Magus2727

Amazing! I think I might have a new project...


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
TIMs like Shin Etsu do like a few heat cycles to settle in to all the little dips and crevices. Keep an eye on it over the next few days.

Send your photos - we love eye candy









Good luck with your gaming









You were right Sethy.. it got better.. I am happy with the final results.
Over all Final thoughts if anyone was following my changes for info..
I went from hitting 83C on one or more cores when I had the Corsair fan as an intake setup with my OC,

Changed to my current push pull and it was hitting 82C with a 83C in the spike from time to time, but it very quickly would go to 82C or lower...
70*F in my room.

Now 2 days later, final testing (yea right ha) with TIM heat cycled
69.7F in the room
100% load
: Linx: 81-79-81-75C

: prime95: 76-74-76-71C

I am pleased with the change and gaming with all settings maxed is 60-61C ish
I think this will give me enough head room to hold me when summer gets here and keep my OC.


----------



## mr-Charles

from posting #6161 . . .

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
just to help & view of, here's a pic of, one of my Storm case's_prototype-pic's,
when i was modding/building/sizing/unfinished, to fit . . .

1= overall setup & modd's - pic
2= overview of install'd on tray for 5.25 slot
3= close-up of (showing with temp. bolt's/ will cutdown l8r)
4= complete'd to check for install into case
5= instll'd & lock'd in >>> FIT's Like a charm ! !







<<<

....hope these pic's give ya some idea of and a good view for ...









mr-Charles .









.


....OK, found my pic's of this setup painted and all . . .
...only thing you don't see for here is some of the longer screw's upon the Radiator are NOT cutdown, yet;
& it is NOT showing of me placing a strip of black-silicone rubber sealant on the gap between both shroud's-to-Radiator....

...other than that, this is pretty much how it is placed/mount'd with_inside
in the 5.25 bay area in one of my STORM Scout case's . . .









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## trivium nate

holy **** nice!


----------



## Magus2727

Lets see if i can have this make sense... Do you need to do any thing to seal the intake fan so it only pulls in air from out-side the case? while the fan looks fairly close to the front, does it pull most of the air from outside or does it pull air for inside the case still?


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
Lets see if i can have this make sense... Do you need to do any thing to seal the intake fan so it only pulls in air from out-side the case? while the fan looks fairly close to the front, does it pull most of the air from outside or does it pull air for inside the case still?

just a note of MY exhaust =
1>upper 140mm fan
1>120mm rear_case fan
1>4890 video card/80mmfan(i think)_box = out the rear
1>CorsairTX750= 120mm fan as intake inside of case to exhaust out the rear

....i have only noticed for it to be pulling air thru the front cover which has the original filter/net for
within each of the 5.25 Bay cover slot's { after LOT's of usage, you can see dust for there,
i just tend to vacuum off the front grill/filter now and then}
[>>> and NO, I do NOT have that *BIG-open-Hole-area* at the bottom; I have made & sprglue'd a rubber flap for there <<<].
This i can tell for the feel of the Radiator is running *cooler* than on my other Scout case, for which
has an H50 setup as exhaust on the Fan at the rear of the case. That Radiator tend's to have a bit
warmer feel of as well as the temp's show of being 3 to 6 degrees different (depending upon the ambient/room temp).

hopefully, i answer'd that and it did make sense enough for ya? ? . . .









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Magus2727

Sounds good!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *killer01ws6* 
You were right Sethy.. it got better.. I am happy with the final results.
















Excellent, Im glad its kicking in.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
Lets see if i can have this make sense... Do you need to do any thing to seal the intake fan so it only pulls in air from out-side the case? while the fan looks fairly close to the front, does it pull most of the air from outside or does it pull air for inside the case still?

No, you dont need a seal. The air will take the path of least resistance and logically that will be from the front. You may get some case air sucked in but it will be negligible.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
No, you dont need a seal. The air will take the path of least resistance and logically that will be from the front. You may get some case air sucked in but it will be negligible.


. . . . ._*EXACTLY*_, & well put; >>> thnx Sethy666 . . . .









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## PCSarge

well i'm back up and running as of today, i installed an XFX Nforce 750I SLI mobo to replace my P5N-D, it is properly reading temps as my cpu is currently 25C idle, havent done a load test yet, will post back later with pics and temp results







biggest test of all to come is crysis on max settings









and NEVER EVER AGAIN will i trust ASUS mobos >.>


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
and NEVER EVER AGAIN will i trust ASUS mobos >.>

I am glad that you come back! off-topic: what happens about asus mobo?


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Eve/morn guys!
SO I am soon to be the proud owner of a H50 Cooler! and have been browsing these forums looking for the best setup intake/exhaust, push/pull. Now I have come to the conclusion thanks to some of Dkev's posts that Exhaust is the way to go! I'm thinking matched with my new HAF932 air flow isnt goin to be an issue and hopefully be seeing some low temps on my i7 920 which I intend to reach a modest 3.7-3.8.
I'm hoping to achieve the <=fan<=shroud<=rad<=shroud<=fan setup

Now am I right in thinking i can mearly mod a couple of 120mm fans into 2x shrouds ? and If so 1xfan, 1xshroud on the back (outside) of the case ? I'm hoping for some good results along with my 2x Scythe S-FLEX 1600RPM Ultra Quiet 120mm Fan's, 63.7 CFM. Is it about 1-2 degrees off with the added shroud etc ?

My first post here chaps, will be updating my RiG details come monday after the build is finished.

I appreciate your time!

Cheers


----------



## gqthedog

http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/1749/beastly.jpg

this little guy gets the job done. with my old cooler i hit mid 50's @3.4ghz. with the h50 hit 4ghz and 2000mhz fsb .


----------



## trivium nate

nice


----------



## Robit

Hi! Just an update on my H50 install..... Installed 03.25..... put two Silverstone speed ajustable fans in a push/pull exhaust config..... Case temps down from 30-31c to 23-24c..... Idle @ 34c load 52c with an OC to 3.7 (Phenom 940). Looks great!! will try OC to 3.8 with luck...


----------



## trivium nate

good luck looking good


----------



## trivium nate

what thermal paste do you use?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
well i'm back up and running as of today, i installed an XFX Nforce 750I SLI mobo to replace my P5N-D, it is properly reading temps as my cpu is currently 25C idle, havent done a load test yet, will post back later with pics and temp results







biggest test of all to come is crysis on max settings









and NEVER EVER AGAIN will i trust ASUS mobos >.>

Welcome back... I missed ya!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd* 
Eve/morn guys!
SO I am soon to be the proud owner of a H50 Cooler! and have been browsing these forums looking for the best setup intake/exhaust, push/pull. Now I have come to the conclusion thanks to some of Dkev's posts that Exhaust is the way to go! I'm thinking matched with my new HAF932 air flow isnt goin to be an issue and hopefully be seeing some low temps on my i7 920 which I intend to reach a modest 3.7-3.8.
I'm hoping to achieve the <=fan<=shroud<=rad<=shroud<=fan setup

*Now am I right in thinking i can mearly mod a couple of 120mm fans into 2x shrouds ? and If so 1xfan, 1xshroud on the back (outside) of the case ? I'm hoping for some good results along with my 2x Scythe S-FLEX 1600RPM Ultra Quiet 120mm Fan's, 63.7 CFM. Is it about 1-2 degrees off with the added shroud etc ?*
My first post here chaps, will be updating my RiG details come monday after the build is finished.

I appreciate your time!

Cheers

Yep, thats sounding like a plan. Just make sure your fans and pump are/is running at 100%. Post some pics when done and welcome









*@gqthedog* - looking good there! Welcome to you 2!


----------



## Robit

Hi! I used the compound that came with the H50..... I read in another post(First page) that it was high quality..... must of the time I do use OCZ Freeze which is pretty good............


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robit* 
Hi! I used the compound that came with the H50..... I read in another post(First page) that it was high quality..... must of the time I do use OCZ Freeze which is pretty good............









Yep - its high quality stuff.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
I am glad that you come back! off-topic: what happens about asus mobo?

asus mobo = fried my $180 GeForce 9800GTX+ video card >.>

also fried its own PCI slot amongst other parts of itself

cpu and RAM are fine, i just had to do an automated call and re-genuine my windows 7

as far as i'm concerned, asus will no longer get buisness from me


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
asus mobo = fried my $180 GeForce 9800GTX+ video card >.>

also fried its own PCI slot amongst other parts of itself

cpu and RAM are fine, i just had to do an automated call and re-genuine my windows 7

as far as i'm concerned, asus will no longer get buisness from me

We missed you in the March Foldathon... make sure your all stable for the April one!


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *killer01ws6* 
You were right Sethy.. it got better.. I am happy with the final results.
Over all Final thoughts if anyone was following my changes for info..
I went from hitting 83C on one or more cores when I had the Corsair fan as an intake setup with my OC,

Changed to my current push pull and it was hitting 82C with a 83C in the spike from time to time, but it very quickly would go to 82C or lower...
70*F in my room.

Now 2 days later, final testing (yea right ha) with TIM heat cycled
69.7F in the room
100% load
: Linx: 81-79-81-75C

: prime95: 76-74-76-71C

I am pleased with the change and gaming with all settings maxed is 60-61C ish
I think this will give me enough head room to hold me when summer gets here and keep my OC.

























So what final clock did you end up with bro? You seem to be really happy with the rig now


----------



## Pings

Just installed my 2nd H50, I got it for my HTPC. I never took the temperature to know how good it is cooling now. But, I do know it is leaps and bounds better than the stock Intel heatsink. I will update with some PICs later. Now that I got my 2nd H50, I now need to get some SSDs.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
Just installed my 2nd H50, I got it for my HTPC. I never took the temperature to know how good it is cooling now. But, I do know it is leaps and bounds better than the stock Intel heatsink. I will update with some PICs later. Now that I got my 2nd H50, I now need to get some SSDs.

Funny how people get addicted to these coolers. So good and so convenient









Viva le H50


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Welcome back... I missed ya!

Yep, thats sounding like a plan. Just make sure your fans and pump are/is running at 100%. Post some pics when done and welcome









*@gqthedog* - looking good there! Welcome to you 2!

Aye! Cannot wait to do this build, been chatting with a friend about the idea of having the 2xscythes mounted with RAD at the front of me case in the remaining drive bays obviously as intake, keeps me RAD away from my GPU which is good, I wonder if this has any advantage over the push/pull exhaust setup at the rear ?

Cheers and thank you for the Welcome!


----------



## piples

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Yep - its high quality stuff.

just wondering if I will like to put Coollaboratory Liquid Pro I will change the temp a little? I just changed the paste with artic silver 5 and just lost 4 degree.
















i was on 55 and now im 59 in occt cpu with a phenom 2 965 140W at 3811 Mhz.

Anyone else have any ideeas how I could take me degrees back?









I know about the 200 h cure but the temp is clearly to high


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


We missed you in the March Foldathon... make sure your all stable for the April one!










well, this old 9600 GSO is being replaced with possibly 2x 9800GTX+ in SLI next weekend, if not 1 card next week, and 1 the week after, i did intel burn, P95 and occt on a 3.2ghz OC which i'm keeping for now, all seems stable, load on occt is 38C, load on p95 is 36C and load on intel burn is 46C so i'm a happy camper







i am currently back to folding withthis old video card, sadly its much slower than my 9800


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


well, this old 9600 GSO is being replaced with possibly 2x 9800GTX+ in SLI next weekend, if not 1 card next week, and 1 the week after, i did intel burn, P95 and occt on a 3.2ghz OC which i'm keeping for now, all seems stable, load on occt is 38C, load on p95 is 36C and load on intel burn is 46C so i'm a happy camper







i am currently back to folding withthis old video card, sadly its much slower than my 9800


 Fold with us next foldathon : D
You should get some good ppd if you fold with those 9800gtx+'s. I don't think sli is necessary for folding though. o.o


----------



## jameschisholm

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


Alright,

I'm pleased with the results.

Well i'm going to list the key:

Idle: (5min no activity from start up)
Load: (ibt x 5 Standard stress)
Room temp: 20-24 (window open/closed)

Right well I'm going to list em in order of expense to me!

NB-MultiframeÂ® S-Series M12-P = 25Euro Each.

Results: Idle 33c / Load 78c

Akasa Super silent APACHE BLACK 12cm = 20Euro Each.

Results: Idle 37c / Load 83c

Corsair Stock 1700rpm H-50 Fan = FREE with the H-50

Results: Idle 39c / Load 89c (worry)

And this is where i pretty much gave up after fear of going into the 90's with the CM-690 stock fans, well its conclusive. to me at least that the more you spend the better results you get!

But on a more truthful note the NB-MultiframeÂ® S-Series M12-P are amazing. and i fully mean that, the compete rubber corners are just so sexy! and it means you can screw them in plush to the case for less airflow loss. I think they'd go well with a shroud too.

hey ho. at least i've got a **** load of fans to massacre now!


Yate Loon D12SM-12C Slim 120mm Fan How would these compare?


----------



## ned261

Hi all, just wondering if you can help me out here with placement options for the H50 rad+fan (or even rad + 2 fans in push-pull config), placed either inside or external to a Lian Li PC-C37 Muse case ??

this case only has 94mm to play with, so the H50 can't be mounted in the usual way in this case.

case: http://www.lian-li.com/v2/en/product...25&ss_index=64

example case with components: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=14487223

I don't want this for a HTPC setup. The low-profile case is mainly required for space limitations.

I plan to build it with a Gigabyte GA-P55M-UD2 and Core i7 860, and moderately overclock (if possible in such a small case).

Thanks in advance.


----------



## sotorious

Those of you that 3 or more fans on your h50, how many C's did it drop compared to the 1 fan that it came with?


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*


Eve/morn guys! 
SO I am soon to be the proud owner of a H50 Cooler! and have been browsing these forums looking for the best setup intake/exhaust, push/pull. Now I have come to the conclusion thanks to some of Dkev's posts that Exhaust is the way to go! I'm thinking matched with my new HAF932 air flow isnt goin to be an issue and hopefully be seeing some low temps on my i7 920 which I intend to reach a modest 3.7-3.8.
I'm hoping to achieve the <=fan<=shroud<=rad<=shroud<=fan setup

Now am I right in thinking i can mearly mod a couple of 120mm fans into 2x shrouds ? and If so 1xfan, 1xshroud on the back (outside) of the case ? I'm hoping for some good results along with my 2x Scythe S-FLEX 1600RPM Ultra Quiet 120mm Fan's, 63.7 CFM. Is it about 1-2 degrees off with the added shroud etc ?

My first post here chaps, will be updating my RiG details come monday after the build is finished.

I appreciate your time!

Cheers


On "My" 932haf with my setup, Exhaust push pull works great.
I may be able to shave a bit more off as intake, but I was feeling a LOT of heat out the top fan when I had it as intake with the single fan.. I like the results I have now better.


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*









So what final clock did you end up with bro? You seem to be really happy with the rig now










I am sitting at 4.047 right now.. I may start looking for 4.2 soon, but to be honest with a board and a GPU issue right out the gate.. I am just happy killing bad guys and enjoying the rig a bit at the moment


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sotorious*


Those of you that 3 or more fans on your h50, how many C's did it drop compared to the 1 fan that it came with?


Varies from 6-10c. Went through multiple configs as well, before settling on INTAKE configuration.


----------



## killerhz

So is it best to have the fans blowing out of the case? I just picked up a h50 and feel lost.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *killerhz* 
So is it best to have the fans blowing out of the case? I just picked up a h50 and feel lost.

Do some searching for Ping's posts in this thread, as I believe he did quite a few diagrams.

The BEST configuration really boils down to your system as a whole, and the airflow going on, not to mention AMBIENT temps have a drastic impact as well.

As in my configuration (which I'll be posting updated pics later tonight most likely), even though everything in theory suggests I should be running an EXHAUST configuration for the best temps, I get better temps with INTAKE due to the heat my setup produces, and how my fans are configured to exhaust that heat, and since my OUTSIDE temps are less, I get better temps.

Of course, come summer, I'll most likely be switching it around again. I'm NOT paying the AC bill that I had to last summer


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
asus mobo = fried my $180 GeForce 9800GTX+ video card >.>

also fried its own PCI slot amongst other parts of itself

cpu and RAM are fine, i just had to do an automated call and re-genuine my windows 7

as far as i'm concerned, asus will no longer get buisness from me

PCSarge, Aah i got it. I am really sorry to hear about that.. I really have never thought that would buy ASUS. Because I aint huge fan of ASUS stuffs.. I am MSI user for 9 years.. anyway I am glad that you come back here and your PC gonna alright now..









anyway better let people stick this topic..


----------



## killerhz

well got her installed and fired up. gotta say that i am very disappointed withe the results so far. installed in the Armour fan, rad, fan going exhaust and the temps are very disappointing. right off the top went straight to 71c. my copper true never passed 63c full load with 20 passes of LinX. i'll tinker with it some more but looks like i will be sending her back to microcenter.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

I'm going to get a shroud and put it in this kind of set up fan-->shroud-->rad-->fan. 
It will be exhausting out the back of the case. Is this the right way to do it?


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killerhz*


well got her installed and fired up. gotta say that i am very disappointed withe the results so far. installed in the Armour fan, rad, fan going exhaust and the temps are very disappointing. right off the top went straight to 71c. my copper true never passed 63c full load with 20 passes of LinX. i'll tinker with it some more but looks like i will be sending her back to microcenter.


Did you set it up as an intake or exhaust?


----------



## Sluggo

Hello everyone,

I just ordered the H50 and was wondering if it comes with thermal paste already applied, and if so is it any good? Should I invest in some Arctic Silver and use that instead?

Thanks in advance for the feedback.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killerhz*


well got her installed and fired up. gotta say that i am very disappointed withe the results so far. installed in the Armour fan, rad, fan going exhaust and the temps are very disappointing. right off the top went straight to 71c. my copper true never passed 63c full load with 20 passes of LinX. i'll tinker with it some more but looks like i will be sending her back to microcenter.


Something is obviously wrong with your installment... that's If you didn't get a defective unit.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sluggo*


Hello everyone,

I just ordered the H50 and was wondering if it comes with thermal paste already applied, and if so is it any good? Should I invest in some Arctic Silver and use that instead?

Thanks in advance for the feedback.


It comes with Shin Etsu which is an expensive and very good paste.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


Something is obviously wrong with your installment... that's If you didn't get a defective unit.


..







... gonna half to agree for that post . . . .









{ possibility = need's a re-seat / could be a combo of: ambient's & case air flow, maybe ?? }

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast*


It comes with Shin Etsu which is an expensive and very good paste. 










Thanks Beast, appreciate it


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sluggo*


Hello everyone,

I just ordered the H50 and was wondering if it comes with thermal paste already applied, and if so is it any good? Should I invest in some Arctic Silver and use that instead?

Thanks in advance for the feedback.



1= _*WELCOME*_







2 this thread on OCN ! ! ! . . .









... Reply 2 your question of concern: Yes, indeed the Shin etsu that is pre-applied from the factory *IS Excellent TIM*; 
but, IMHO, i have found that the factory has pre-applied for a-bit-too-thick upon for what's needed. 
Basically, have a good seat, and do a couple of "burn-in's", (aka, Prime95 run's etc.), to thin
out evenly upon the cpu and you will notice temp's to come down some ...

again, my 2







worth of mentioning . . .

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sluggo*


Thanks Beast, appreciate it


No problem, and welcome to overclock.net


----------



## staryoshi

I'm wondering if I should get one again... I liked mine, but I wasn't zomg impressed... I may try it again though ^_^ I'll see how the tranquillo is before I decide


----------



## Robit

Hi! The best set-up is Exhaust/twin fans..... The hightest cfm type you can use(I have two Silverstone 110cfm), seems to do the job...


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
1= _*WELCOME*_







2 this thread on OCN ! ! ! . . .









... Reply 2 your question of concern: Yes, indeed the Shin etsu that is pre-applied from the factory *IS Excellent TIM*;
but, IMHO, i have found that the factory has pre-applied for a-bit-too-thick upon for what's needed.
Basically, have a good seat, and do a couple of "burn-in's", (aka, Prime95 run's etc.), to thin
out evenly upon the cpu and you will notice temp's to come down some ...

again, my 2







worth of mentioning . . .

mr-Charles .









.

That's really good info. This could also explain why some are experiencing undesirable results with new installs. I will definitely do those "burn-ins".


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *killer01ws6* 
I am sitting at 4.047 right now.. I may start looking for 4.2 soon, but to be honest with a board and a GPU issue right out the gate.. I am just happy killing bad guys and enjoying the rig a bit at the moment









Just enjoy the rig and leave overclocking aside for a bit dude


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Just enjoy the rig and leave overclocking aside for a bit dude










Oh, I am..








When the time comes I cant run a game without a bit more juice, I'll worry about it more then haha..
Ok, who am I kidding.. I will OC it more I am sure... but I am enjoying Bioshock2 right now and I have several others on my plate waiting.

Game ON.


----------



## killerhz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killer01ws6*


Did you set it up as an intake or exhaust?


sorry for the delay but wanted to try a few things out. having to reset it a few times using intake and exhaust methods. both with 2 x 120x25 120x38. temps varied but well over 70c. like i said above with my 4001 @ 1.118 vcore on my copy true temps with loading in about 63c. with the H50 i've hit 76c. idle on both seem to be 38-39c.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


Something is obviously wrong with your installment... that's If you didn't get a defective unit.


maybe but i have now reset it over 6 times using different TIM. results are the same. i don't have the energy to try anymore. maybe i will mess around with it in the AM to see if there is any difference.

if it is defective, don't think that i will find out cause don't think that this cooler is worth the work. i should have done more homework before i bought it. doesn't seem to live up to my expectations.









here is the proof with my true


----------



## arbalest

You're setting your vcore in windows?

BIOS overclock it, then give us results.


----------



## rickyman0319

is H50 radiator single pass or double pass?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killer01ws6*


Oh, I am..








When the time comes I cant run a game without a bit more juice, I'll worry about it more then haha..
Ok, who am I kidding.. I will OC it more I am sure... but I am enjoying Bioshock2 right now and I have several others on my plate waiting.

Game ON.


HAHA that's what I like to hear man. Sometimes when you overclock and then you enjoy your PC at that clock, you get that sense of success. It's a great feeling









Quote:



Originally Posted by *killerhz*


sorry for the delay but wanted to try a few things out. having to reset it a few times using intake and exhaust methods. both with 2 x 120x25 120x38. temps varied but well over 70c. like i said above with my 4001 @ 1.118 vcore on my copy true temps with loading in about 63c. with the H50 i've hit 76c. idle on both seem to be 38-39c.

maybe but i have now reset it over 6 times using different TIM. results are the same. i don't have the energy to try anymore. maybe i will mess around with it in the AM to see if there is any difference.

if it is defective, don't think that i will find out cause don't think that this cooler is worth the work. i should have done more homework before i bought it. doesn't seem to live up to my expectations.









here is the proof with my true











Sorry buddy, I've been a bit out of the loop lately, this thread is wayy tooo active to stay up to date.

What were your temps with the H50, those above are with the TRUE correct?


----------



## Ragsters

Can you guys help me out with something? I have had the Corsair Hydro H50 since it came out. In fact the box that came with the cooler wasn't even retail it was blank with no graphics. Currently I have the fans on the radiator blowing in like Corsair suggested which is giving me great temps. The problem with that is the dust that gets collected inside the case. As a temporary fix I have a filter outside the case taped on with electrical tape and once every month I take it off and clean it. To save me the hassle of cleaning it all the time would it be almost as efficient if I just flipped the fans around and made them exhaust? I have a modded intake fan on the front so It will still be receiving cool air. I also was thinking about the configuration my fans were in and thought that by having intake from both directions wasn't the smartest Idea or does the top exhaust fans take care of that? Here is a link to how my rig looks like except I have upgraded some hardware since including a q9550 that I just bought today.
http://www.techpowerup.com/gallery/2274.html


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*


is H50 radiator single pass or double pass?


Havent got one too look at but i'm guessing single.


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


Can you guys help me out with something? I have had the Corsair Hydro H50 since it came out. In fact the box that came with the cooler wasn't even retail it was blank with no graphics. Currently I have the fans on the radiator blowing in like Corsair suggested which is giving me great temps. The problem with that is the dust that gets collected inside the case. As a temporary fix I have a filter outside the case taped on with electrical tape and once every month I take it off and clean it. To save me the hassle of cleaning it all the time would it be almost as efficient if I just flipped the fans around and made them exhaust? I have a modded intake fan on the front so It will still be receiving cool air. I also was thinking about the configuration my fans were in and thought that by having intake from both directions wasn't the smartest Idea or does the top exhaust fans take care of that? Here is a link to how my rig looks like except I have upgraded some hardware since including a q9550 that I just bought today.
http://www.techpowerup.com/gallery/2274.html



This seems to be the never ending hot topic with the H50: intake vs. exhaust!

You have a nice full size case with plenty of fans and seemingly good air flow. Here's an interesting H50 review that you should read:

http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1025/6/

The link will take you to page 6. Scroll to the bottom and you will see that the tester decided to try two 120mm fans in the exhaust position and found better results than with the original setup with one fan. Of course, this is using double the fans, and he doesn't mention what happens with the same two fans in the intake position. In my research so far, this config only seems to be successful if you have a full size tower with good air flow, cable management, etc. which you definitely have. I'm still waiting for the H50, but I will definitely be using this config in my Thermaltake Armor case because my fan setup is more that sufficient and I don't want to deal with dust coming into the case either. Hopefully this helps.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


Can you guys help me out with something? I have had the Corsair Hydro H50 since it came out. In fact the box that came with the cooler wasn't even retail it was blank with no graphics. Currently I have the fans on the radiator blowing in like Corsair suggested which is giving me great temps. The problem with that is the dust that gets collected inside the case. As a temporary fix I have a filter outside the case taped on with electrical tape and once every month I take it off and clean it. To save me the hassle of cleaning it all the time would it be almost as efficient if I just flipped the fans around and made them exhaust? I have a modded intake fan on the front so It will still be receiving cool air. I also was thinking about the configuration my fans were in and thought that by having intake from both directions wasn't the smartest Idea or does the top exhaust fans take care of that? Here is a link to how my rig looks like except I have upgraded some hardware since including a q9550 that I just bought today.
http://www.techpowerup.com/gallery/2274.html


Buy some cheap 120mm Fan Filters. I bought a 2kit for like $5.99 from MicroCenter. They make life easy


----------



## Swoosh19

im planning to mod my h50..but the only res available here in our country is the ek res...do you think the h50 pump can handle it?


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robit* 
Hi! The best set-up is Exhaust/twin fans..... The hightest cfm type you can use(I have two Silverstone 110cfm), seems to do the job...









For me its intake,

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Swoosh19* 
im planning to mod my h50..but the only res available here in our country is the ek res...do you think the h50 pump can handle it?

You can mod the pump have a look at a few pages back some guys have done some very decent mods,

Can I make a sweeping statement?

Following this thread (as difficult as it is) there seems to a few factors that can effect the overall performance of the H-50!
*
1st* is the Amount of fans, 2 is ample! with shrouds even better.

*2nd* is the fan speed/type for me a good 2000rpm 70+cfm like the NB-MultiframeÂ® S-Series M12-P

*3rd* is the TIM - the stock is good, but it can be improved with some pro butter spreading skills ( i know you love the toast!)

*4th* is the position within the case - now I think this one is the hardest to get right, there can only be a finite amount of places you can hang your rad, so trail and error, for me its the rear.

*5th* and last is *INTAKE OVER EXHAUST* - For me this is obvious, intake brings the coolest air into the case and through the rad thus decreasing temps, but you also have to make provisions for that newly heated air, so either a side exhaust or a top exhaust.








[/IMG]


----------



## Sast

Hey guys, i'm quite new to OCN, but I have been reading your posts non stop lately trying to gain some knowledge on the parts for my new rig...

Anyway to my point - I have just bought an Antec 1200 (arrived this morning) now obviously this damned question of intake or exhaust? (using the H50)

I heard some rumours that I could try intake but with the h50 mounted on the front with a fan/shroud/rad/shroud/fan setup, but if i placed it in the 5 1/4 bays I would lose the cd drive slot, wouldn't I? maybe i'm being thick there....

So that leads me to the next setup, fan/shround/rad/shroud/fan as an exhaust on the back, but with the antec 1200 which in my opionion looks to have an insane air flow, I could manage with an intake on the rear and still have enough cooling inside the system thanks to that big boy fan up top.

Opinions please!


----------



## Chicken Patty

Guys, it is no that hard to open up your case and swap the fans from intake to exhaust. Takes five minutes at the most. Results vary from user to user, try it yourself and go with what works best. Same as mounting location.


----------



## PCSarge

NOTE FOR ALL THOSE USING EXHAUST!

the H-50 may not draw dust in, but the rad will collect any in the case when the air is on its way out the back, i just took my fans off and gave it a cleaning with an air duster... another 2C drop on load temps cause there was nothing blocking airflow through the rad anymore!

though mine is intake, exhaust used to collect alot more dust and my pc is by far not in a dusty room, and i have fan filters and guards installed which i clean regularly >.>


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
NOTE FOR ALL THOSE USING EXHAUST!

the H-50 may not draw dust in, but the rad will collect any in the case when the air is on its way out the back, i just took my fans off and gave it a cleaning with an air duster... another 2C drop on load temps cause there was nothing blocking airflow through the rad anymore!

though mine is intake, exhaust used to collect alot more dust and my pc is by far not in a dusty room, and i have fan filters and guards installed which i clean regularly >.>

Agreed, just look what can happen if you don't clean!


----------



## Sast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Guys, it is no that hard to open up your case and swap the fans from intake to exhaust. Takes five minutes at the most. Results vary from user to user, try it yourself and go with what works best. Same as mounting location.

Fair comment, although that's what a forum is for, to discuss - besides, i don't have the parts yet to try. I'm doing my research before I buy so I know what to get to get the best results.


----------



## Magus2727

either way you cant go wrong, if you have good air flow in the case you will see a 1-2*C drop if used as an intake over exhaust. the difference is more or less depending on what all you have in the case (i.e. 3 x GTX280's Over Clocked in SLI Folding which will put put a lot of heat!) knowing what your current configuration is and what temps you have will help decide what will be best.


----------



## Sast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
either way you cant go wrong, if you have good air flow in the case you will see a 1-2*C drop if used as an intake over exhaust. the difference is more or less depending on what all you have in the case (i.e. 3 x GTX280's Over Clocked in SLI Folding which will put put a lot of heat!) knowing what your current configuration is and what temps you have will help decide what will be best.

I will be using the Antec 1200, with (hopefully) the H-50 cooler, with an OC i7 930 @ 4.0GHz with (for now) x1 5870 Gfx card. Personally I think the air flow inside the antec will easily be good enough to use an intake set up, but it all depends how good I can get the cable management and until I get it all setup I'll be playing the guessing game.

As Chicken Patty said earlier, I will have to have a play with it and see what works best


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
either way you cant go wrong, if you have good air flow in the case you will see a 1-2*C drop if used as an intake over exhaust. the difference is more or less depending on what all you have in the case (i.e. 3 x GTX280's Over Clocked in SLI Folding which will put put a lot of heat!) knowing what your current configuration is and what temps you have will help decide what will be best.

I agree, i have 2xGTX285's overclocked in my rig and boy do they get hot, they are by far the hottest part in the case, @ 70c max they can effect the flow, but this is what i did to stop the residual heat effecting my cpu.










Push the gpu air out the back or side! my gpu is super chilled from all angles allowing the stock gpu fans to suck up cold air from outside the case and dump the hot air out the back, not giving it any chance to heat up the inside of the case!


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Havent got one too look at but i'm guessing single.

That is incorrect. The H50 is a "dual pass" radiator. Both In and outflow are located in the same area. Fluid enters, goes up along the "back" side then loops down the "front" side and exits the opposite tube.


----------



## Garanthor

As Chicken Patty said earlier, I will have to have a play with it and see what works best[/QUOTE]

In my HAF 922 I had plenty of room to place this in the spare 5 1/4 inch drive bays with room to spare (i.e. dosen't affect my DVD drive which is at the top). The diference between this and using it as an exhaust was only about 1to 1.5 degrees....but still. I also found that even with all the fans in my case (i.e. 3 X 200mm...one at the front, one at the side one at the top and 1 X 120mm out the back and 1 X 120mm fan blowing from the bottom up) the MB temp and NB temp all went up about 3-4 degrees idle and about 8 degrees more at max load with this configuration. I'm undecided if I'll change it back to exhaust yet. Thinking about it....

Note that I have fan shroud rad shroud fan set-up as well.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *killer01ws6* 
On "My" 932haf with my setup, Exhaust push pull works great.
I may be able to shave a bit more off as intake, but I was feeling a LOT of heat out the top fan when I had it as intake with the single fan.. I like the results I have now better.

Aha! Well I think I'm going to go with the same setup then bud. I see I have also orederd the same Fans you are using, if im right they are the 1600rpm/63CFM ones aye ?

Cheers!


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
That is incorrect. The H50 is a "dual pass" radiator. Both In and outflow are located in the same area. Fluid enters, goes up along the "back" side then loops down the "front" side and exits the opposite tube.









Ok, was never sure about the difference between the two.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChosenLord* 
I agree, i have 2xGTX285's overclocked in my rig and boy do they get hot, they are by far the hottest part in the case, @ 70c max they can effect the flow, but this is what i did to stop the residual heat effecting my cpu.










Push the gpu air out the back or side! my gpu is super chilled from all angles allowing the stock gpu fans to suck up cold air from outside the case and dump the hot air out the back, not giving it any chance to heat up the inside of the case!

you see I was tempted by this same setup having push/pull intake at the rear, but i was worried a little about my 1x230mm fan at the top was goin to be enuff to exhaust all the heat from within my case(HAF932). Bearing in mind it would be my only exhaust fan. I could make my side 230mm fan also exhaust.


----------



## Chicken Patty

I know forums are to discuss and I'm all up for that, I'm just trying to get a point across as most people try to copy other users setups, etc.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd* 
you see I was tempted by this same setup having push/pull intake at the rear, but i was worried a little about my 1x230mm fan at the top was goin to be enuff to exhaust all the heat from within my case(HAF932). Bearing in mind it would be my only exhaust fan. I could make my side 230mm fan also exhaust.

I shouldn't see this being a problem! and to be honest when the air comes through the Rad into the case its hardly HOT, for me the 2 x120mm do an ample job of taking the air out of the case, but because i have to MAssive HOT gpus i had to be a little more inventive with that cooling,

A side exhaust is a good idea, as well as the top, I was looking at the HAF932 but decided to go for the Corsair 800d, so the diagram i made earlier is based on my CM-690 and works well in such a confined space, like i mentioned in an earlier post there are 5 factors you have to consider when installing a H-50.

Might be worth checking em out. but its a case of trial and error, as long as you have enough TIM to keep playing?


----------



## Sast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
I know forums are to discuss and I'm all up for that, I'm just trying to get a point across as most people try to copy other users setups, etc.

Maybe it sounded like I was snapping back, wasn't the intent in my message, I appreciate every setup is different, one of the main reasons behind this is the climate they live in, but I'm just here to gain knowledge of what is working best for everyone so I know where to begin when I come to put it together


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChosenLord* 
I shouldn't see this being a problem! and to be honest when the air comes through the Rad into the case its hardly HOT, for me the 2 x120mm do an ample job of taking the air out of the case, but because i have to MAssive HOT gpus i had to be a little more inventive with that cooling,

A side exhaust is a good idea, as well as the top, I was looking at the HAF932 but decided to go for the Corsair 800d, so the diagram i made earlier is based on my CM-690 and works well in such a confined space, like i mentioned in an earlier post there are 5 factors you have to consider when installing a H-50.

Might be worth checking em out. but its a case of trial and error, as long as you have enough TIM to keep playing?

Aye I have enuff time! well, at the moment (week of work)







I heard the 800d doesnt match up to the air flow of the HAF 932 ? and have heard such things as exhaust is the way to go with the 932. Well like you said trial and error! I have the time at the mo to mess around a bit with reversing intake/exhausts etc. After I have finished my build today I shall take some pics and temp reading and see what I come up with!

Cheers!


----------



## killerhz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
HAHA that's what I like to hear man. Sometimes when you overclock and then you enjoy your PC at that clock, you get that sense of success. It's a great feeling









Sorry buddy, I've been a bit out of the loop lately, this thread is wayy tooo active to stay up to date.

What were your temps with the H50, those above are with the TRUE correct?

thanks man. well with the H50 and mulitple set-ups in take or exhaust the temps are atrocious. right now 2 minutes into prime with the same volts i am hovering around 75c. no matter what set-up, TIM or fans this cooler doesn't seem to be doing it for me. any more suggestions i would love.

*EDIT*








ok. i am an idiot (kind of) well with my Classified it came with a control panel (ecp). see those blue buttons? well those are for vcore boots and guess what? that's right captain idiot had hit one. how i figured t out was my vcore in my bios say 1.18 then looking at CPUz closely it says that it was at 1.28. i thought my motherboard was going until looking at the front i say the red light on about the second blue button. now lets see what the deal is. will post back after a few runs of linX.


----------



## Magus2727

do you have a shroud? this allows for more airflow over the whole radiator.

What are your idle temps and ambient air temps?


----------



## killerhz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
do you have a shroud? this allows for more airflow over the whole radiator.

What are your idle temps and ambient air temps?


edited my post. to answer your questions not shroud idle temps are 35c-39c depending on which core. as for ambient 22-25c in house. don't have a way to measure case temps but seem a bit cooler in the case with my 120x38's sucking the air out and 2 x 120x25 sucking the air in.


----------



## killerhz

well better than the 75c but still not acceptable. 70c with only 5 mintues in and it's sure to get hotter as the tests goes.

oh well, looks like this aint the cooler for me.


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killerhz*


well better than the 75c but still not acceptable. 70c with only 5 mintues in and it's sure to get hotter as the tests goes.

oh well, looks like this aint the cooler for me.


What case do you have?


----------



## killerhz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84* 
What case do you have?

the Thermaltake Armour for now. i want a new case and maybe even full on water cooling but don't know how to WC or mod case to WC.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChosenLord* 
Agreed, just look what can happen if you don't clean!










and how long exactly was that in your case before you checked it lmao


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


and how long exactly was that in your case before you checked it lmao

















Probabley not long, the FPI is so high, mine looked like that or worst after a month.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


Agreed, just look what can happen if you don't clean!











this isnt first time.. look at *#650 *

You can use air pressure sprayer or air pressure gun to blow dust out of radiator; or visit at bgears for Fan Filter

Good luck!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


and how long exactly was that in your case before you checked it lmao

















I believe that he neglected it in rig for 2 or 3 months before he checked it.


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd* 
Aha! Well I think I'm going to go with the same setup then bud. I see I have also orederd the same Fans you are using, if im right they are the 1600rpm/63CFM ones aye ?

Cheers!

Yep, those are the ones and I think you will be pleased with your results.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


Buy some cheap 120mm Fan Filters. I bought a 2kit for like $5.99 from MicroCenter. They make life easy










I do have a filter on the outside. Read the post.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


this isnt first time.. look at *#650 *

You can use air pressure sprayer or air pressure gun to blow dust out of radiator; or visit at bgears for Fan Filter

Good luck!

I believe that he neglected it in rig for 2 or 3 months before he checked it.


yeah, you see i tend to clean mine around every 2-3 weeks to make sure i have no problems,as far as filters go, i'm in the process of modding one off an old case to fit on my intake fan on the H50, as mine hangs in my HAF932's 5 1/4 drive bays in intake config w/ push/pull R4's


----------



## NoahDiamond

Well, I did it. I did what House would do.


----------



## Magus2727

Good Job!... did you return the defective one or did you RMA it first and then returned the one you got back?

House would be proud!


----------



## Sethy666

Got a dust issue? Who hasn't?

I discovered these filters and they are great! If you have a metal case, they just slap over the intake ports - no screws, no hassles









To clean, just peel off, clean and reapply...

They come in 120mm and 140mm variants.

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=12957










Addit: if you dont like white... dye them with fabric dye


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Got a dust issue? Who hasn't?

I discovered these filters and they are great! If you have a metal case, they just slap over the intake ports - no screws, no hassles









To clean, just peel off, clean and reapply...

They come in 120mm and 140mm variants.

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=12957











That is sweeeet,
Does me no good sadly. My HAF932 has much larger fans but that is not the deal breaker either... all of the front grills are perforated so even if you cover the 230 fans, you will eat dust..

I just figure every 3-4 weeks, take her out to my shop and smack it down with my compressor.. heh.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killer01ws6*


That is sweeeet,
Does me no good sadly. My HAF932 has much larger fans but that is not the deal breaker either... all of the front grills are perforated so even if you cover the 230 fans, you will eat dust..

I just figure every 3-4 weeks, take her out to my shop and smack it down with my compressor.. heh.


Loose weave foam, pehaps or stockings... you know... the panyhose variety


----------



## Fantomau

Would it be better if I replaced the thermal on the H50 with some MX-2 or would the pre-applied thermal work ok? Would I use the dot size in the middle of the cpu or the line like it states on AC5?

Also, If I used the 2 fan config, fan/h50/fan, What size screws would I use to mount the 2nd fan?


----------



## Swoosh19

same goes for me...look at the dust that has been collected on my rad and case


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fantomau*


Would it be better if I replaced the thermal on the H50 with some MX-2 or would the pre-applied thermal work ok? Would I use the dot size in the middle of the cpu or the line like it states on AC5?

Also, If I used the 2 fan config, fan/h50/fan, What size screws would I use to mount the 2nd fan?


 Stock is best before getting really expensive like indigo extreme.. (better temps than mx-2)

After all, its Shin-Etsu.


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fantomau*


Would it be better if I replaced the thermal on the H50 with some MX-2 or would the pre-applied thermal work ok? Would I use the dot size in the middle of the cpu or the line like it states on AC5?

Also, If I used the 2 fan config, fan/h50/fan, What size screws would I use to mount the 2nd fan?



Like already said, 
Keep the stock TIM, it is better than almost all of that is on the market but the really highend and hard to find stuff.

Screws,

6/32x 1 1/4


----------



## Tennobanzai

This is soooo tempting!!
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/im...ev_3_HOT_.html


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tennobanzai* 
This is soooo tempting!!
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/im...ev_3_HOT_.html

What fan is that?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Got a dust issue? Who hasn't?

I discovered these filters and they are great! If you have a metal case, they just slap over the intake ports - no screws, no hassles









To clean, just peel off, clean and reapply...

They come in 120mm and 140mm variants.

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=12957










Addit: if you dont like white... dye them with fabric dye









I don't think those work too well with my case. I have the honeycomb bump out on the back of the case. Since the filter won't sit flush with the case, it won't stick well.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Sethy666 can you tell me how you set up your h50 with shrouds and what size they are. I was think of going with fan-->shroud-->rad-->fan. With a 25mm shroud.


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killer01ws6*


That is sweeeet,
Does me no good sadly. My HAF932 has much larger fans but that is not the deal breaker either... all of the front grills are perforated so even if you cover the 230 fans, you will eat dust..

I just figure every 3-4 weeks, take her out to my shop and smack it down with my compressor.. heh.


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=26221


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84*


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=26221


Nice find,but look at the price.


----------



## NoahDiamond

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Good Job!... did you return the defective one or did you RMA it first and then returned the one you got back?

House would be proud!


Returned the old one with the new receipt.

Does anyone know why the moderators keep giving me infraction points? It's not like I'm being immature... I'm just being a jerk.


----------



## gus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


What fan is that?



http://www.feser-one.com/site/produc...roducts_id=329


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast* 
Sethy666 can you tell me how you set up your h50 with shrouds and what size they are. I was think of going with fan-->shroud-->rad-->fan. With a 25mm shroud.











I gutted some 120 x 25mm fans (see sig) and popped them between the two Scythe Kaze ultra 120 x 38mm fans.

Push>shroud>rad>shroud>pull fan (intake)

Then I placed that set up in the 5.25 bay of my CM690... I love zip ties


















I seem to get better temps with 2 x shrouds over just one,,, I dont know the physics but it seems to work. Also the use of shrouds lessens the noise from the fan due to decreased turbulance.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NoahDiamond*
Does anyone know why the moderators keep giving me infraction points? It's not like I'm being immature... *I'm just being a jerk*.

Well, there you go...









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
I don't think those work too well with my case. I have the honeycomb bump out on the back of the case. Since the filter won't sit flush with the case, it won't stick well.

Cut em out! cut em all out... free the air flow, man the dremels... worked for me







Seriously, modding your fan ports can really decrease your noise and increase your flow rates.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Thanks Sethy. How much did temps drop from a reg push/pull? Whats the length of your entire setup of the h50?


----------



## pcnuttie

Those filters that someone posted. Do they really do any justice PREVENTING DUST very well? Cuz those filters on my Antec 1200 is alright. I just see dust still every week. I wonder if those plastic magnet dust will do the trick? Anyone?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast* 
Thanks Sethy. How much did temps drop from a reg push/pull? Whats the length of your entire setup of the h50?

Temps dropped about from 15c to 8c above ambient. So, above 7c drop.

Enclosed are my OCCT runs.

_Whats the length of your entire setup of the h50?_ - Im not sure what you mean by this. Ive had a H50 since Dec 2009.


----------



## Sorian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
_Whats the length of your entire setup of the h50?_ - Im not sure what you mean by this. Ive had a H50 since Dec 2009.

Think he means how long it is from the start of the push fan to the end of the pull fan. But that could easily be figured out with some number crunching..

3x25mm +2x38mm = 151mm


----------



## GAMERIG

this runs for HP Workstation..

*Source*


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


and how long exactly was that in your case before you checked it lmao

















HAHA, i know, my heart dropped when i saw this!! this is about 4 months of not cleaning! i do it every 2 weeks now, I've just moved my ring into a new case too, tell me what you think?


----------



## mickogti

very nice







me like it, looks clean...


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tennobanzai* 
This is soooo tempting!!
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/im...ev_3_HOT_.html

That is sweet looking, figures I see this " right after" re-do my setup haha.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84* 
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=26221

Nice to know that I have options if I get tired of taking it to the shop so often, Thanks.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChosenLord* 
HAHA, i know, my heart dropped when i saw this!! this is about 4 months of not cleaning! i do it every 2 weeks now, I've just moved my ring into a new case too, tell me what you think?





nice feet btw LMAO you took the pic pointing down too much, but nice case







for the 300 dollar price tag lol


----------



## Swoosh19

Nice new case chosen lord....i see lot of corsair


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Swoosh19*


Nice new case chosen lord....i see lot of corsair










Your Telling me! I might ring em up and ask em to send me an SSD then i do own everything they sell! I wish they would sponsor me! that would be great!

MY feet are for size comparison i have size 10 feet English.


----------



## tehmaggot

I think I may pick one of these up for my lan box. Aftermarket cooler pickings are pretty slim for this case, and I think the H50 will lead to the best results. I just need to figure out where to mount the mini-rad or bust out a dremel.


----------



## Swoosh19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


Your Telling me! I might ring em up and ask em to send me an SSD then i do own everything they sell! I wish they would sponsor me! that would be great!

MY feet are for size comparison i have size 10 feet English.


That would be great if they sponsored you with everything..







or at least make you test the items before they go out on the market! or pay you to make reviews about their products! that would be nasty


----------



## arbalest

Annnnnnnd... It's FINISHED!




































Time to sell it and build whats REALLY in my mind! My father just picked up a whole workshop of metal working tools, so I'm going to be building something from scratch!


----------



## Magus2727

being off topic but I love that Case... I am now looking at it as one of my top picks when I have the $$ for a new one. My old thermaltake Armor was not designed in any means for cable management, it was before the whole lets make the inside look nice. It was the stage of lets just let people see the inside.

I have taken Pics of my new H50 set up and will post them when I get home tonight.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Ello again all! So..........

Just finally finished my build and I am rather interested in knowing if my stock temps are normal ?
At the moment im at 2.66, HT on, turbo off, speedstep off.

current temps showing on speedfan are:

CPU 26
Core 0 33
core 1 33
core 2 29
core 3 29
core 4 31
core 5 31
core 6 30
core 7 30

Now I may be wrong here as i am new to i7's and the H50 cooler but I feel these seem a little high for stock.
Im running the push/pull exhaust with 2x Scythe S-flex fans.
System is 33 degrees so not too high really. I understand the fact that the compound on the cooler needs to burn in a bit to maximise heat dissipation etc. but thought I would see what you guys think.
Plus on top of this Speedfan(Version 4.40) seems to be very glitchy, it freezes from time to time when dragging it on desktop. hopefully this is a W7 64bit issue, as it doesnt happen with any other program. hopefully it is the teething issues of a fresh install and hardware.

Cheers for you time guys


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*


Ello again all! So..........

Just finally finished my build and I am rather interested in knowing if my stock temps are normal ?
At the moment im at 2.66, HT on, turbo off, speedstep off.

current temps showing on speedfan are:

CPU 26 
Core 0 33
core 1 33
core 2 29
core 3 29
core 4 31
core 5 31
core 6 30
core 7 30

Now I may be wrong here as i am new to i7's and the H50 cooler but I feel these seem a little high for stock.
Im running the push/pull exhaust with 2x Scythe S-flex fans.
System is 33 degrees so not too high really. I understand the fact that the compound on the cooler needs to burn in a bit to maximise heat dissipation etc. but thought I would see what you guys think.
Plus on top of this Speedfan(Version 4.40) seems to be very glitchy, it freezes from time to time when dragging it on desktop. hopefully this is a W7 64bit issue, as it doesnt happen with any other program. hopefully it is the teething issues of a fresh install and hardware.

Cheers for you time guys










Depends on your ambient temp, at 70*F my system temp is 25C but my cores are in very high 30s to 40-41.. you are lower than that on your cores..
I say you look good for the TIM not to have cycled 3-5 times..(that is when I noticed my best results)

we have the same case and fans.. my system temp is lower than yours so I "assume" you are in a warmer room, which means you are getting good temps imho.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Aha! Well not as bad as I thought it was going to be then, glad to ahve some sort of idea about what I should be aiming for now. What fan control software do you use ? im using speedfan at the mo and it seems to just hate windows 7, its now stopped telling me what my system and aux1 fan are spinning at!
Doing my nut in tbh, tried out the expert fan which came within the AI suite for my ASUS P6T MB, but no good.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd* 
Aha! Well not as bad as I thought it was going to be then, glad to ahve some sort of idea about what I should be aiming for now. What fan control software do you use ? im using speedfan at the mo and it seems to just hate windows 7, its now stopped telling me what my system and aux1 fan are spinning at!
Doing my nut in tbh, tried out the expert fan which came within the AI suite for my ASUS P6T MB, but no good.

Just throw down $30-$40 and get a nice fan controller. Much better than Software!


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
Just throw down $30-$40 and get a nice fan controller. Much better than Software!

I got a zalman controller, But thought about the lamptron that p-pcs has.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24896


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Fantomau* 
I got a zalman controller, But thought about the lamptron that p-pcs has.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24896

Yeah, I've heard really good things about those Lamptrons!


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


Yeah, I've heard really good things about those Lamptrons!


Think it'd be better than my zalman I have now?

Its the Zalman ZM-MFC1 PLUS


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Aye! Well, ive literally just spent over Â£800 on upgrades/fans/postage etc so if there is any reliable fan control software other than speedfan i would love to know.

Cheers


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Fantomau* 
Think it'd be better than my zalman I have now?

Its the Zalman ZM-MFC1 PLUS

I've got one of those, decent build quality and the only fan i have that it restricts is the ultra Kaze 3000 due to not being that powerful.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
I've got one of those, decent build quality and the only fan i have that it restricts is the ultra Kaze 3000 due to not being that powerful.

Really? I have the same one, and haven't noticed it restricting either of my Kaze's but who knows...

Have to do some checking on that one! Thanks for the insight!

Guess I could VMod my fan controller!


----------



## Fantomau

Lamptron has 1 that lets ya change the lcd color, But everytime you'd wanna change the color, You gotta take it out to do so, Which sux. I'd think a small dial or buttons on front would be the better option.

I see zalman has another 1: ZM-MFC3. Kinda ugly IMO.

Ya seen the Scythe KM03-BK "KAZE MASTER PRO"? Looks kinda cool.


----------



## Fantomau

Would these be the screws I'd need for the push-pull?

http://www.deepsurplus.com/HOME/Mach...xide-Bag-of-25


----------



## PCSarge

BANG! & Olufsen....


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd* 
Aye! Well, ive literally just spent over Â£800 on upgrades/fans/postage etc so if there is any reliable fan control software other than speedfan i would love to know.

Cheers


Not that I know of. Get a fan controller...


----------



## PCSarge

Gentlemen, i've found the machine that PINGS!


----------



## Salami991

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Fantomau* 
Would these be the screws I'd need for the push-pull?

http://www.deepsurplus.com/HOME/Mach...xide-Bag-of-25

I just used eight cable ties, was the only way I could think of to get my two ultra kazes mounted.


----------



## TurboHertz

By TurboHertz at 2010-03-30


----------



## Electroneng

Ello again all! So..........

Quote:

Just finally finished my build and I am rather interested in knowing if my stock temps are normal ?
At the moment im at 2.66, HT on, turbo off, speedstep off.

current temps showing on speedfan are:

CPU 26
Core 0 33
core 1 33
core 2 29
core 3 29
core 4 31
core 5 31
core 6 30
core 7 30
Those temps are very good!


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
Really? I have the same one, and haven't noticed it restricting either of my Kaze's but who knows...

Have to do some checking on that one! Thanks for the insight!

Guess I could VMod my fan controller!









Are yours the 3000 RPM versions? Mine run quite alot slower, probably 100-200RPM compared to when its connected to a Molex.


----------



## Batou

Please tell me what you think about my job guys, special thanks for it to this forum that helped me a lot deciding what to do and how to do it!

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...-rig-sugo.html

ty all!


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Batou* 
Please tell me what you think about my job guys, special thanks for it to this forum that helped me a lot deciding what to do and how to do it!

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...-rig-sugo.html

ty all!

You get the OC.NET







of approval!

I like the cable management!


----------



## kev_b

I haven't fired this up yet, it's one of those projects for when I get bored but here's the H-50's big brother.


----------



## Magus2727

What cooler is that??? (make/model)


----------



## kev_b

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
What cooler is that??? (make/model)

Asetek 220, I'm told Asetek is the makers of the H-50, the pump looks just like the H-50 but with a added 4 pin connector.


----------



## Defiler

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Batou* 
Please tell me what you think about my job guys, special thanks for it to this forum that helped me a lot deciding what to do and how to do it!

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...-rig-sugo.html

ty all!

Posted in your thread but i need to repeat it here. Awesome job on that setup.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*


Aye! Well, ive literally just spent over Â£800 on upgrades/fans/postage etc so if there is any reliable fan control software other than speedfan i would love to know. 
Cheers


I use both. Speedfan for my rad fans (Scythe Kaze Ultra 2000s) and pump. A Zalman MFC for my case fans. I find this a nice setup.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


Gentlemen, i've found the machine that PINGS!










Im very happy for you but Im not sure what PINGS means


----------



## shizdan

I'm pretty mad. I spent all day putting my H50 together, such as installing shrouds + Rubber Gaskets + fans and when I finally get it all installed I go to put the fan that is closest to the waterblock and it wont fit!

<-Fan Shroud Gasket Case Rad Shroud Gasket <-Fan

So now its going like

<- Fan Shroud Gasket Case Rad Gasket <- Fan


----------



## Batou

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Defiler*


Posted in your thread but i need to repeat it here. Awesome job on that setup.










Thank you very much ^^


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


For me its intake,

You can mod the pump have a look at a few pages back some guys have done some very decent mods,

Can I make a sweeping statement?

Following this thread (as difficult as it is) there seems to a few factors that can effect the overall performance of the H-50!
*
1st* is the Amount of fans, 2 is ample! with shrouds even better.

*2nd* is the fan speed/type for me a good 2000rpm 70+cfm like the NB-MultiframeÂ® S-Series M12-P

*3rd* is the TIM - the stock is good, but it can be improved with some pro butter spreading skills ( i know you love the toast!)

*4th* is the position within the case - now I think this one is the hardest to get right, there can only be a finite amount of places you can hang your rad, so trail and error, for me its the rear.

*5th* and last is *INTAKE OVER EXHAUST* - For me this is obvious, intake brings the coolest air into the case and through the rad thus decreasing temps, but you also have to make provisions for that newly heated air, so either a side exhaust or a top exhaust.








[/IMG]


hmmm, wonder should I turn my side fan to exhaust. I two fans in front and the side panel fan as intake.. only top fan as exhaust in my case.

That's a lot of air coming in with one way out... Should help with dust too


----------



## pcnuttie

I have thought of the same thing, man glad i have been following this. I plan to join the club soon this summer. Totally getting a H50 by summer starts lol.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Temps dropped about from 15c to 8c above ambient. So, above 7c drop.

Enclosed are my OCCT runs.

_Whats the length of your entire setup of the h50?_ - Im not sure what you mean by this. Ive had a H50 since Dec 2009.


By the length i meant the space the fan>shroud>rad> shroud >fan took in your case.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast* 
By the length i meant the space the fan>shroud>rad> shroud >fan took in your case.









Sorry, I can be Captain Literal at times...

Thats 151mm total lenght. Just fits neatly into my front 5.25 bay.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
Those filters that someone posted. Do they really do any justice PREVENTING DUST very well? Cuz those filters on my Antec 1200 is alright. I just see dust still every week. I wonder if those plastic magnet dust will do the trick? Anyone?

Yes they do, nuttie. I cleaned them off yesterday and there was a ton of rubbish - not just dust but tiny insect things too


----------



## AsAnAtheist

I'd like to join the club. I was wondering if someone is suppose to add me?
I got my Corsair H50 a few days ago. Im hitting 49c load, prime95 after around 9 hours.

Pics/information can be found here as well as a comparison to the Sunbeam CCF 120m heatsink:
http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ccf-120mm.html


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AsAnAtheist* 
I'd like to join the club. I was wondering if someone is suppose to add me?
I got my Corsair H50 a few days ago. Im hitting 49c load, prime95 after around 9 hours.

Pics/information can be found here as well as a comparison to the Sunbeam CCF 120m heatsink:
http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ccf-120mm.html

Welcome. You can add yourself... there is a speadsheet on the front page of this thread.

Nice work on the Vs comparison, BTW.


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AsAnAtheist* 
I'd like to join the club. I was wondering if someone is suppose to add me?
I got my Corsair H50 a few days ago. Im hitting 49c load, prime95 after around 9 hours.

Pics/information can be found here as well as a comparison to the Sunbeam CCF 120m heatsink:
http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ccf-120mm.html

Front page and you can add yourself.


----------



## AsAnAtheist

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Welcome. You can add yourself... there is a speadsheet on the front page of this thread.

Nice work on the Vs comparison, BTW.

I see thanks.


----------



## trivium nate

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kev_b* 
Asetek 220, I'm told Asetek is the makers of the H-50, the pump looks just like the H-50 but with a added 4 pin connector.

wow i like that can you provide a buying link? thanks how well does it work?


----------



## kev_b

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trivium nate*


wow i like that can you provide a buying link? thanks how well does it work?


http://www.ncixus.com/products/35702...012200/Asetek/


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
Just throw down $30-$40 and get a nice fan controller. Much better than Software!

Yeah I agree, a pysical wire to control the fans is the best option, For Me i want for the Nesteq FanMax 8-Channel Controller and its a dream! sleek looking, 8 channels, the wires are long enough even for my 800D, 12v/6v settings - you dont get complete control, but its split into 2 cooling areas with 4 fans in each. and for 20Quid you cant complain.

And as far as windows 7 x64 goes, i've had very few problems, i used to have little mini freezes every 20 sec or so and it was VERY frustrating, turned out to be SUPER-spyware an anti-spyware programme, un-installed that and bobs your sister!


----------



## ChosenLord

HEy guys I know there has been lots of talk about what fans to get for cases and the H-50, well i'm using the NB-MultiframeÂ® S-Series M12-P

BUT......

I've just ordered these!! OMG the airflow is SILLY! nearly 200CFM!

I love the way it says '_This is Not a quiet Fan - This Fan is specifically designed to MOVE AIR- FAST!'_

What do you guys think?


----------



## Salami991

I'm thinking I hope you have a decent quality fan controller for that Delta, unless you want to go midly deaf in the next few months


----------



## GAMERIG

I am wondering if you had seen this before?/ or did you try this like that?








*link*


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
I am wondering if you had seen this before?/ or did you try this like that?








*link*

That should work well however,
I would not be so keen on a big bucket of water right next to my $$ parts and I would not want to have to worry in the middle of a firefight if I needed to stop and fill the bucket, I'm a gamer at heart... the OCing and numbers are just a nice side bonus.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GAMERIG* 
I am wondering if you had seen this before?/ or did you try this like that?








*link*

THis is AWESOME!! just wish i had the balls!


----------



## Magus2727

It would be better if there was some sort of pump to circulate the water.

you could go supper crazy and find a dual core radiator that could be used as a water/water inter-cooler. run alcohol or some liquid with a very low freezing point and have its radiator in a deep freezer or some sort so you can get some really cold temps. but that is beyond the ability of the H50....


----------



## Magus2727

Double Post....


----------



## Chunderface

Sup guys, Just installed my H50 that has been under my desk for a week because my CM 690 II advanced finally came! When installing it i messed up continuously, taking it on and off the CPU because i done something wrong haha. In the end i think i got it installed properly because while running prime 95 im only at 43 degrees! not bloody 80's like that stupid idiot of a stock cooler.

I have it mounted with push/pull zalman zm-f3's painted red!


----------



## Fifth

I've been looking at getting one of these for a while now, but am still undecided. With my sig rig my idle temps are between 30 and 32c, under load they are in the 50's. How much temp change would I see if I added one of these to my rig?


----------



## Magus2727

Hot Doggy.... Got my pic's uploaded...


----------



## Defiler

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


HEy guys I know there has been lots of talk about what fans to get for cases and the H-50, well i'm using the NB-MultiframeÂ® S-Series M12-P

BUT......

I've just ordered these!! OMG the airflow is SILLY! nearly 200CFM!

I love the way it says '_This is Not a quiet Fan - This Fan is specifically designed to MOVE AIR- FAST!'_

What do you guys think?


If bought in pairs they should come with a set of these.

Those remind me of the Sunnon fans I used to have a long time ago. I could hear them on the other side of the house, literally. They might be fun for the first day but after that, you will most likely hate them if you don't control then with something.


----------



## Magus2727

Should have gotten a pair of these....

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=20848

if you had any thing with in a few feet of the back of your case it might cause enough pressure to slowly move your case forward....


----------



## Defiler

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Should have gotten a pair of these....

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=20848

if you had any thing with in a few feet of the back of your case it might cause enough pressure to slowly move your case forward....










. Just,







.


----------



## Marduke

Should be getting all my parts for my brand new system today. Included in that is a Corsair H50. Very excited.

I know it's not what many people call a true water cooling system, but it's my first forray into water cooling and I want to take it slow.

Very excited to get it all hooked up when I get home today from work.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Should have gotten a pair of these....

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=20848

if you had any thing with in a few feet of the back of your case it might cause enough pressure to slowly move your case forward....


Well it turned out the company selling them doesn't deliver outside the uk so i'm screwed, so i'm still looking for a retailer for these, the link you posted looks great, i use a decent headset so i cant hear anything anyways, not even my flatmates banging on the door! ( 3 feet away!) so i doubt i'll hear them!

I went for these any way


----------



## gbzn

How many rpm can you push the fan to on the h50?


----------



## the.ronin

I decided to put the Akasa fans that came with the H50 back on. The Scythe S-Flex, while strong, just made too much noise.

I've been looking at the Scythe Gentle Typhoons but there seems to be a lot of different kinds. Which one would you guys recommend for decent cooling of the H50 rad at minimal noise?

Or any other low noise but effective fan recommendation?

This would be for a single fan in push / exhaust configuration.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gbzn* 
How many rpm can you push the fan to on the h50?

Depends on how powerful the the motor is...

Question is how much static pressure can the radiator take, having two 220 CFM fans in a push pull con-fig is going to put some stress on the radiator.

If you need that much airflow for cooling i think most people will say you need to upgrade to an actual water cooling system and use a 360 or 480 size radiator....


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chunderface*


Sup guys, Just installed my H50 that has been under my desk for a week because my CM 690 II advanced finally came! When installing it i messed up continuously, taking it on and off the CPU because i done something wrong haha. In the end i think i got it installed properly because while running prime 95 im only at 43 degrees! not bloody 80's like that stupid idiot of a stock cooler.

I have it mounted with push/pull zalman zm-f3's painted red!


WoW! 43 degrees under load thats bloody good! all cores at the mo on my 920 at idle are 27-32 degrees, cpu 22 degrees! and under load with HT on in the mid 50's but that is at stock. At least i know I have a good cooler here to be able to OC to a safe 3.7-3.8!


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Depends on how powerful the the motor is...

Question is how much static pressure can the radiator take, having two 220 CFM fans in a push pull con-fig is going to put some stress on the radiator.

If you need that much airflow for cooling i think most people will say you need to upgrade to an actual water cooling system and use a 360 or 480 size radiator....


The FPI is high so its possible but unlikely. Also, unless your putting huge amounts of heat though the rad, I dout you would see a 1'c difference using these compared to a ultra kaze 3000.


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:


Originally Posted by *the.ronin* 
I decided to put the Akasa fans that came with the H50 back on. The Scythe S-Flex, while strong, just made too much noise.

Iâ€™ve been looking at the Scythe Gentle Typhoons but there seems to be a lot of different kinds. Which one would you guys recommend for decent cooling of the H50 rad at minimal noise?

Or any other low noise but effective fan recommendation?

This would be for a single fan in push / exhaust configuration.

I found my Scythe Fans to be more noisy than I had expected too, seeing many reviews quoted them as nearly silent, Not silent.. but nearly..

My HAF932 was so quiet that these fans doubled the at rest noise floor.. but it is still much quieter than my old gaming rig, just shows how quiet the HAF is to start with.


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*


WoW! 43 degrees under load thats bloody good! all cores at the mo on my 920 at idle are 27-32 degrees, cpu 22 degrees! and under load with HT on in the mid 50's but that is at stock. At least i know I have a good cooler here to be able to OC to a safe 3.7-3.8!


The 920 is a warm chip... you have a very good seat and cooler combo,
mine was good the first time, then when I rmaed my board, it was not as good as it was, so.. I changed to push-pull and found some of the orig TIM..
For my OC, I am happy... ask me again how I like it come July-August lol


----------



## EaglePC

ok cleaned up the old goo,apply artic silver 5 one thin line reseated 2x Antec TriCool 120mm Blue LED Case Fan 3 Speed on MED Speed both [email protected]







vid card not warm exhaust fan top case and 1x side .i love my ole cm 830 se.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *the.ronin* 
I decided to put the Akasa fans that came with the H50 back on. The Scythe S-Flex, while strong, just made too much noise.

Iâ€™ve been looking at the Scythe Gentle Typhoons but there seems to be a lot of different kinds. Which one would you guys recommend for decent cooling of the H50 rad at minimal noise?

Or any other low noise but effective fan recommendation?

This would be for a single fan in push / exhaust configuration.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *killer01ws6* 
I found my Scythe Fans to be more noisy than I had expected too, seeing many reviews quoted them as nearly silent, Not silent.. but nearly..

My HAF932 was so quiet that these fans doubled the at rest noise floor.. but it is still much quieter than my old gaming rig, just shows how quiet the HAF is to start with.

Not sure if you guys are running shrouds... As air flow goes up there is alot more turbulence. Turbulence makes noise. Pull fans are especially prone to this cause the blades are so close to the rad. Also, the Sflexes have a rather large motor hub and will perform better with a shroud. If you can fit even a 25mm shroud it's a win, win.

I run Gentle Typhoon AP-15, and even they run quieter with a shroud.


----------



## PCSarge

>.> i'm posting because i'm bored, tonight ill take pics of the inside of my case lit up by my red LED R4's lets hope they turn out good, if they do i'ma post em


----------



## the.ronin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Not sure if you guys are running shrouds... As air flow goes up there is alot more turbulence. Turbulence makes noise. Pull fans are especially prone to this cause the blades are so close to the rad. Also, the Sflexes have a rather large motor hub and will perform better with a shroud. If you can fit even a 25mm shroud it's a win, win.

I run Gentle Typhoon AP-15, and even they run quieter with a shroud.


Iâ€™ve never thought of using a shroud. I donâ€™t have much room in my case though because of the way Iâ€™ve set it up â€" one of the reasons why I use just a single fan. Would you mind linking to the shroud you are using or would recommend?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


>.> i'm posting because i'm bored, tonight ill take pics of the inside of my case lit up by my red LED R4's lets hope they turn out good, if they do i'ma post em


Use a tripod or some sort of stand. Also use the timer so you dont shake the camera moving it away.


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *the.ronin*


Iâ€™ve never thought of using a shroud. I donâ€™t have much room in my case though because of the way Iâ€™ve set it up â€" one of the reasons why I use just a single fan. Would you mind linking to the shroud you are using or would recommend?


If you go back thru this thread, you will see lots of examples and links.
One options is to take a old fan and cut the motor and support out with a dremel, wala.. Shroud.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Use a tripod or some sort of stand. Also use the timer so you dont shake the camera moving it away.

i have a 50/50 chance with a cellphone camera will, i dont have money to buy a new digi cam atm >.> my old one bit it a while ago


----------



## AsAnAtheist

*If the OP wishes to add this piece of information the OP can:

I contact Corsair to see what the stock Thermal grease was on the Corsair H50, they said it was Shin-Etsu however did not know what model of Shin-Etsu thermal grease it was. I proceeded to contact MicroSi (Sub company of Shin-Etsu Chemical). They managed to find what Shin-Etsu grease it was: Shin-Etsu X23-7783D... As some of you may know the Xsystem review found Shin-etsu X23-7783D to be the best thermal grease available in the market. Better then IC diamond 7.

Anyways hope that solves some questions with the stock thermal grease.*


----------



## pcnuttie

Looks like i'm buying this tomorrow because my quad seems to get a bit warmer now compared to the fact it was close to 80 degrees outside today and it's getting warrrrrm! I think it's time to go water cooling. Can't believe i'm doing this. I still wanna use Artic Silver 5 or OCZ Freeze but i may give this thermal paste that is already on there a chance. Since you guys said it's good.


----------



## EaglePC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AsAnAtheist*


*If the OP wishes to add this piece of information the OP can:

I contact Corsair to see what the stock Thermal grease was on the Corsair H50, they said it was Shin-Etsu however did not know what model of Shin-Etsu thermal grease it was. I proceeded to contact MicroSi (Sub company of Shin-Etsu Chemical). They managed to find what Shin-Etsu grease it was: Shin-Etsu X23-7783D... As some of you may know the Xsystem review found Shin-etsu X23-7783D to be the best thermal grease available in the market. Better then IC diamond 7.

Anyways hope that solves some questions with the stock thermal grease.*


Guess we have a Artic Silver 5 Debat here.


----------



## Xs1nX

So im not terribly happy with my H50 and pair of GT AP15's in push/pull from a noise point of view. above about 1100 to 1200 RPM what i assume is the turbulence "whine" of air being pushed/pulled thought the rad just gets to loud for me. But I worry that 1100RPM is a bit slow.. on the Intel Burn In Test set to the "High" setting with the panels of my case off I got temps of 80 Deg + after about 10 mins or so.

When i got the H50 i did notice some of the rad "fins" (the s shaped thin metal divider things)were a bit out of wack and the paint was chipped, maybe two/three of the S's in top left about 2in diagonal in from corner. Am wondering if this could be cause of noise issues ..


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xs1nX*


So im not terribly happy with my H50 and pair of GT AP15's in push/pull from a noise point of view. above about 1100 to 1200 RPM what i assume is the turbulence "whine" of air being pushed/pulled thought the rad just gets to loud for me. But I worry that 1100RPM is a bit slow.. on the Intel Burn In Test set to the "High" setting with the panels of my case off I got temps of 80 Deg + after about 10 mins or so.

When i got the H50 i did notice some of the rad "fins" (the s shaped thin metal divider things)were a bit out of wack and the paint was chipped, maybe two/three of the S's in top left about 2in diagonal in from corner. Am wondering if this could be cause of noise issues ..


I've heard that adding shrouds will make the fans a little less noisy.


----------



## Lrs3329




----------



## killerhz

well finally got around to installing it for the last time in my case. i have tried multiple configs and nothing seems to help out temps as much as my Copper TRUE. here is was i am averaging on load temps (on a good day) and when it is a bit warmer bump this up to 72c. to knock down temps 1c i put a fan on the side blowing toward the block.

Set up is 2x Ultra Kaze 3000 push/pull exhaust, 1 90mm thermaltake as intake, 1 120mm as exhaust on top and 1 120mm antec tri-cool hanging from top blowing on block. that's a lot of noise. charging my camera and will post pics of the set-up.


----------



## miyo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xs1nX*


So im not terribly happy with my H50 and pair of GT AP15's in push/pull from a noise point of view. above about 1100 to 1200 RPM what i assume is the turbulence "whine" of air being pushed/pulled thought the rad just gets to loud for me. But I worry that 1100RPM is a bit slow.. on the Intel Burn In Test set to the "High" setting with the panels of my case off I got temps of 80 Deg + after about 10 mins or so.

When i got the H50 i did notice some of the rad "fins" (the s shaped thin metal divider things)were a bit out of wack and the paint was chipped, maybe two/three of the S's in top left about 2in diagonal in from corner. Am wondering if this could be cause of noise issues ..


Yeah, when I had my Corsair fans they were indeed much too loud. You should check out the Noctua NH-P12 (i think that's the model name), and put the ultra-low-noise adapter. It brings the RPMs down from 1200 to 900, but i do not see a performance change, just inaudible.


----------



## Kvjavs

Stupid question, What would be the best way to get the adhesive pads off a motherboard? I was able to get my H50 back plate off a motherboard, but the black adhesive pads they shipped with are stuck to it.

Should I get a hair dryer and blow on the pads for a minute and try to peal it off?

I don't want to damage anything.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kvjavs* 
Stupid question, What would be the best way to get the adhesive pads off a motherboard? I was able to get my H50 back plate off a motherboard, but the black adhesive pads they shipped with are stuck to it.

Should I get a hair dryer and blow on the pads for a minute and try to peal it off?

I don't want to damage anything.

If you don't want to damage anything, I would leave it there. I know corsair shouldn't have put tape where is attaches to the motherboard..


----------



## Kvjavs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast* 
If you don't want to damage anything, I would leave it there. I know corsair shouldn't have put tape where is attaches to the motherboard..









I'm going to be going back to the motherboard it's stuck on though, and i got some new pads from Ace Hardware. However I do have very very very VERY thing pads I can put on top of that so it'll stick to the back plate.

But would a hair dryer cause damage? I would much rather replace the pads all together.


----------



## Frankie007

Add me please I'm in the middle of my build. I'll be running the H50 in a push/pull config using the 120mm fan my HAF 922 case came with.

Linkhttp://www.overclock.net/intel-build...ew-member.html


----------



## Marduke

Got all my parts today, everything went without a hitch. Now I just need my GTX 480!

H50 is working wonderfully already, VERY quiet and doesn't take up a gigantic amount of space, unlike most air coolers.

I've got it running in push/pull with the Corsair fan, and my case's fan. I have some higher quality fans on the way, though.

I'll take some pictures tomorrow once I have all the cables managed. Didn't want to zip tie them up or anything before I knew the system would work.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kvjavs*


I'm going to be going back to the motherboard it's stuck on though, and i got some new pads from Ace Hardware. However I do have very very very VERY thing pads I can put on top of that so it'll stick to the back plate.

But would a hair dryer cause damage? I would much rather replace the pads all together.


A hair dryer will not do any damage. Do NOT use anything metalic to scrap or pull the pads with.

You could also use a small amount of rubbing alcohol to disolve the adhesive but let it air dry before you fire up your mobo.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Frankie007*


Add me please I'm in the middle of my build. I'll be running the H50 in a push/pull config using the 120mm fan my HAF 922 case came with.


Welcome!

You can now add yourself







There is a spreadsheet on the first page of this thread.


----------



## stewroids

Just replaced my CM V8 with a Corsair H50. I don't see much of a difference idling, but a 5-7C difference at full load. I used the thermal paste that was already on the H50 and mounted it on. Here are my results.

CORSAIR H50:
Temperatures idling are: CPU: 37C, 37 37 35 35 (didn't touch the thermal paste)
Temperatures with Prime95: CPU 52C, 64 64 65 65

CM V8:
Temperatures idling are: CPU: 37, 37 37 35 35 (stock paste)
Temperatures with Prime95: CPU 50c, 60 60 57 57

I have two Coolermaster R4 exhausting out, and sandwiched the Radiator inbetween the two. Both running fairly high (1800-2000rpm). I'm not that happy with the H50, but because it's new - would the thermal paste need a curing time?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stewroids* 
Just replaced my CM V8 with a Corsair H50. I don't see much of a difference idling, but a 5-7C difference at full load. I used the thermal paste that was already on the H50 and mounted it on. Here are my results.

CORSAIR H50:
Temperatures idling are: CPU: 37C, 37 37 35 35 (didn't touch the thermal paste)
Temperatures with Prime95: CPU 52C, 64 64 65 65

CM V8:
Temperatures idling are: CPU: 37, 37 37 35 35 (stock paste)
Temperatures with Prime95: CPU 50c, 60 60 57 57

I have two Coolermaster R4 exhausting out, and sandwiched the Radiator inbetween the two. Both running fairly high (1800-2000rpm). I'm not that happy with the H50, but because it's new - would the thermal paste need a curing time?

Welcome!

If you used the stock paste for the H50, it doesnt need curing time. It does need a few heat / cool cycles to work its way into all the nooks and crannys.

R4's push about 69 cfm, which isnt bad but you can go higher with other fans.

Where is you pump drawing its power, fan header or PSU via molex?

Also, consider strapping a shroud between you push fan and the rad. If you have the space, you can also place a shroud between the rad and the pull fan too.

This should decrease your temps further and cut down on the fan turbulence (noise).

Pls also complete the following page for your PC's specs - thanks

Quote:

http://www.overclock.net/specs.php?do=addsystem


----------



## pzyko80

ok picked me up one of these im bloody tired of the noise of my mega now the question is anyone have this on the 1200 ?? id like to see some pics for mounting ideas thanks a bunch


----------



## stewroids

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Welcome!

If you used the stock paste for the H50, it doesnt need curing time. It does need a few heat / cool cycles to work its way into all the nooks and crannys.

R4's push about 69 cfm, which isnt bad but you can go higher with other fans.

Where is you pump drawing its power, fan header or PSU via molex?

Also, consider strapping a shroud between you push fan and the rad. If you have the space, you can also place a shroud between the rad and the pull fan too.

This should decrease your temps further and cut down on the fan turbulence (noise).

Pls also complete the following page for your PC's specs - thanks


How long would I have to wait to fully see the correct temperatures?

It's connected to the PSU via molex. The fan setup looks like <--CM R4--RADIATOR--CM R4. I have it exhausting out of my case, is that the correct format?

What do you mean by replacing a shroud between the rad and the pull?

Specs:
Core i7 920
850TX PSU
5850 HD
1TB HDD
CORSAIR H50
Gigabyte EX58-EXTREME
HAF 932


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stewroids*


How long would I have to wait to fully see the correct temperatures?

It's connected to the PSU via molex. The fan setup looks like <--CM R4--RADIATOR--CM R4. I have it exhausting out of my case, is that the correct format?

What do you mean by replacing a shroud between the rad and the pull?

Specs:
Core i7 920
850TX PSU
5850 HD
1TB HDD
CORSAIR H50
Gigabyte EX58-EXTREME
HAF 932


Depends on your usage - maybe a couple of days of normal use - games, stress tests etc

Your configuration looks good. If you feel the need, you can experiment with and intake config by reversing the directions of the fans.

A shroud is a spacer that negates the dead space on the rad that all fans leave, so the "whole' rad isnt being cooled equally. Shrouds eliminate that dead space.

You can make your own shroud - see my sig for how to..

This is a pick of my rad set up with fans and shrouds...










You can see the shrouds between the fans and the rad.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kvjavs*


I'm going to be going back to the motherboard it's stuck on though, and i got some new pads from Ace Hardware. However I do have very very very VERY thing pads I can put on top of that so it'll stick to the back plate.

But would a hair dryer cause damage? I would much rather replace the pads all together.


You could have just got 3M Double Sided Pads. Its what they use ;-)

Use Goo Be Gone -- http://www.magicamerican.com/googone...04ab44c06.aspx

You can get it pretty much anywhere. It's what I used to clean my MOBO from that stickyness







It works awesome, just make sure to get some rubbing alcohol and a good lint free rag, and clean up the Goo Be Gone afterward


----------



## stewroids

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Depends on your usage - maybe a couple of days of normal use - games, stress tests etc

Your configuration looks good. If you feel the need, you can experiment with and intake config by reversing the directions of the fans.

A shroud is a spacer that negates the dead space on the rad that all fans leave, so the "whole' rad isnt being cooled equally. Shrouds eliminate that dead space.

You can make your own shroud - see my sig for how to..

This is a pick of my rad set up with fans and shrouds...










You can see the shrouds between the fans and the rad.


Damn that's a good idea - but I don't have any fans lying around









Right now I have my air coming in from my front, side and bottom, and leaving through the rear and top. Here's how it looks like:

Intake:
230mm front fan, 140mm front fan, 230mm side fan, 120mm bottom fan
Exhaust:
230mm top fan, 2x CM R4 rear exhaust

Hopefully playing games and stressing my CPU will drop my temperatures a bit. Does the stock thermal paste have a curing time? Or is that only with AS5


----------



## Chicken Patty

Well it's kinda sad day. I am starting soon a project log but the build will be a all air cooled build. The issue is that it will be the rig that has the H50 now. So either I keep the H50 for possible later use or sell it. What do you guys think?


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Well it's kinda sad day. I am starting soon a project log but the build will be a all air cooled build. The issue is that it will be the rig that has the H50 now. So either I keep the H50 for possible later use or sell it. What do you guys think?


Why all Air Cooling!? WHY!?!?!?!?!









Keep it! Or part it out. I'll take the Radiator


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


Why all Air Cooling!? WHY!?!?!?!?!









Keep it! Or part it out. I'll take the Radiator










Well The only way I'll water is getting another XFX 5770 that is reference. I have two but one is not reference and I have one water block for it. If I find another reference I'll get a 2nd block and do a separate loop for it. Then I can keep the H50 for the CPU.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Well The only way I'll water is getting another XFX 5770 that is reference. I have two but one is not reference and I have one water block for it. If I find another reference I'll get a 2nd block and do a separate loop for it. Then I can keep the H50 for the CPU.


Ahhhhh, I see! I'm really particular, so I would be dealing like mad to get another reference card, just so I could have peace of mind, knowing that my cards match... even if I couldn't see them!


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


Ahhhhh, I see! I'm really particular, so I would be dealing like mad to get another reference card, just so I could have peace of mind, knowing that my cards match... even if I couldn't see them!










yeah I would be too bro, but it's a PITA to find another one


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Depends on your usage - maybe a couple of days of normal use - games, stress tests etc

Your configuration looks good. If you feel the need, you can experiment with and intake config by reversing the directions of the fans.

A shroud is a spacer that negates the dead space on the rad that all fans leave, so the "whole' rad isnt being cooled equally. Shrouds eliminate that dead space.

You can make your own shroud - see my sig for how to..

This is a pick of my rad set up with fans and shrouds...










You can see the shrouds between the fans and the rad.


hey Man they are Ultra Kaze 3000rpms? I've just got 4 in the post! cant wait to wach these on my H-50, they are loud but at 133.6 CFM they will do a sterling job!

Oh also, just picked up 2 of these too! these will eliminate any cooling issues with the H-50 they're gonna lift my rig off the ground!! I love industrial fans!!

they are 20db above the UltraKaze's but supply an EXTRA 120CFM on top!!

They are SO gonna be worth it, getting from the US so it will take forever!!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stewroids*


Damn that's a good idea - but I don't have any fans lying around









Hopefully playing games and stressing my CPU will drop my temperatures a bit. Does the stock thermal paste have a curing time? Or is that only with AS5


Shin Etsu - the H50 stock paste does not have a curing time.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


hey Man they are Ultra Kaze 3000rpms? I've just got 4 in the post! cant wait to wach these on my H-50, they are loud but at 133.6 CFM they will do a sterling job


No, they are UK 2000s. Not as loud as some say


----------



## Xs1nX

For shrouds with a push pull set up, do i need one on the push and pull sides or just the push ? as i cant work out how to mount one on the pull side and also have space concerns as the shrouds are kinda large to and two of them may be an issue.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xs1nX*


For shrouds with a push pull set up, do i need one on the push and pull sides or just the push ? as i cant work out how to mount one on the pull side and also have space concerns as the shrouds are kinda large to and two of them may be an issue.


Conventional wisdom puts the shroud on the push side of the rad. If you have space, a shroud on the pull side is a bonus.

Most people, inlcuding me, use fan screws in the opposite diagional of each fan/shroud. See pic.


----------



## jameschisholm

Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm 1850 RPM Cooling Fan

I'm reading a lot about noisy fans on here, is 28db/57 CFM loud, or only just audible? Been thinking of putting 2 of these on a push/pull for my h50 when I buy one.


----------



## Moonshadow

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...uide-fans.html

Look at the part there on quietness of the fans. Low 20's is quiet. Of course, that is the noise it makes when your fans are going full blast. They will be quieter if you tone them down a little.


----------



## jameschisholm

So the gentle typhoons there being 28db are just a little bit quieter than a library lol according to that chart. So all in all recommended?


----------



## buste2

not really. i took mine off right away...

its a very noticeable "humming" noise...

I am currently running P/P with 2 stock corsair fans and they're quieter! I'll sell them to ya if you want to gamble like I did. They were used less than 5 minutes! lol...best of luck for whatever you decide on!


----------



## Sast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Conventional wisdom puts the shroud on the push side of the rad. If you have space, a shroud on the pull side is a bonus.

Most people, inlcuding me, use fan screws in the opposite diagional of each fan/shroud. See pic.



I'm going to be using your setup in the Antec 1200, i think i should have sufficient air flow to have it as an intake.

as for the side fan, would it be best to have that as an intake or an exhaust? i suppose its trial and error and see what gives the best results.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*


So the gentle typhoons there being 28db are just a little bit quieter than a library lol according to that chart. So all in all recommended?


the Apache blacks are 13db and push good air!


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


the Apache blacks are 13db and push good air!


13db at 12v or 5v?


----------



## jameschisholm

Well here is a question for you guys.

What if I had:
1x Gentle Typhoon @ 1850rpm 57CFM/28db
1x Akasa Apache Black Super Silent @ 1300rpm 57CFM/16-18db

That would be quieter than 2x GT's, but in what config would be best for that?

The High rpm GT on the outside of the case pulling/apache on the rad inside pushing, 
Or 
the other way around?

My guess is have the high rpm fan blowing air through the rad from the inside right?

as Out take all this.

Edit: Duh, the Apache does the same CFM @ a lower speed, and less db, 2x apaches are better = me regaining my common sense.


----------



## jameschisholm

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


the Apache blacks are 13db and push good air!


Do you use them? what are you temps @4ghz ?


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jameschisholm*


Do you use them? what are you temps @4ghz ?


I did use them and they were..... alright, temps around 37-42 so not that good, but swapped changed them for NB-MultiframeÂ® S-Series M12-P and the went down to 35-39

THEN i've just installed these today and current temps are 27-31

BUT yet still in my hunt for ULTIMATE fans i've got 2 of these ordered and they will dominate my H-50

Its gonna sound like a jet plane but thats part of the awe, i'm hoping to have my cpu idle at ambient or below so around 22c

At stock (2.67ghz) the Apache Blacks @ 27/45-load
NB-MF12-P @ 23/39-load
and my current UltraKaze.... 17/31-load!!

Basically i care not for noise! only airflow and on those DELTA's its INSANE 250+cfm!!

Dont worry i'm not a spend-a-holic i'm getting a few rads and a loop in the next week or so, so its in prep for that coming! i wanna make sure i have the best computer in The Netherlands!! well almost!


----------



## jameschisholm

Want to know something? I bought 1 of those 4000rpm delta's once, to put on my really old Scythe CPU cooler (tower design) on a Pentium D, and for the love of god, it sounded like 3x hair dryers, and could hold a piece of paper against my wall because of the sheer force of air!

OTT imo.

Still very tempted by them Gentle Typhoon's though..(1850rpm/28db/57cfm)


----------



## Defiler

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChosenLord* 
BUT yet still in my hunt for ULTIMATE fans i've got 2 of these ordered and they will dominate my H-50

If you mean "rape and leave for dead", then yes they will _dominate_ your H50.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Defiler* 
If you mean "rape and leave for dead", then yes they will _dominate_ your H50.









I mean pillage, rape, decapitate and disembowel and then nail that corsair ***** to a cross!!


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


I mean pillage, rape, decapitate and disembowel and then nail that corsair ***** to a cross!!


I saw those last night (via your post) and I'm gonna order a few of those









Push/Pull with Shrouds, and for intake and exhaust!


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


I mean pillage, rape, decapitate and disembowel and then nail that corsair ***** to a cross!!


Oh, There is going to be some nailing going on for sure!!


----------



## pcnuttie

I don't understand the shroud part, I'll need to read through carefully cuz i do wanna buy a H50 today but i'm nervous i may not be happy with my temps.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


I don't understand the shroud part, I'll need to read through carefully cuz i do wanna buy a H50 today but i'm nervous i may not be happy with my temps.


well a shroud basically is a riser/gap between the rad and fan, allowing for the conventional 'dead spot' to be eliminated, its not that hard to conceive ? is it?


----------



## Kvjavs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


You could have just got 3M Double Sided Pads. Its what they use ;-)

Use Goo Be Gone -- http://www.magicamerican.com/googone...04ab44c06.aspx

You can get it pretty much anywhere. It's what I used to clean my MOBO from that stickyness







It works awesome, just make sure to get some rubbing alcohol and a good lint free rag, and clean up the Goo Be Gone afterward










I don't have the stickiness just yet, the actual pads are still stuck on. I will pick up some of that though for when I can get the pads off. I was just wondering if heat is the solution to help pealing it off.


----------



## the.ronin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


well a shroud basically is a riser/gap between the rad and fan, allowing for the conventional 'dead spot' to be eliminated, its not that hard to 
conceive ? is it?


Iâ€™m sure it depends on mnay factors but generally how thin can you go on a shroud before itâ€™s basically ineffective?


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kvjavs*


I don't have the stickiness just yet, the actual pads are still stuck on. I will pick up some of that though for when I can get the pads off. I was just wondering if heat is the solution to help pealing it off.


Well it will get them off either way







It sort of dissolves that pad so it comes off clean. And no, heat doesn't work. Makes it stick better. I tried that too!


----------



## Syrillian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *the.ronin*


Iâ€™m sure it depends on mnay factors but generally how thin can you go on a shroud before itâ€™s basically ineffective?



This depends upon the diameter of the fan hub, but generally speaking I would not use a shroud that is < 1/2" - 3/4".


----------



## PCSarge

man syril.... took a look at a few of your cases, indigo is a really wild concept, i like people who think outside the box







i may try it at some point... ifi can source some decent acrylic in my local area >.>
because as it is, a giant metal box for a pc case is rather..well... BORING >.>


----------



## Anon>Implied

Hey everyone!
Been lurking and reading this thread for the last 3 weeks while I was researching the parts for my new build. Well I got the CPU last the other day(core i7 980x ftw!) and started putting it together.

I got a few questions about the H50 installation though.

-I noticed that you put 2 strips of adhesive tape on the bracket behind the motherboard to keep it attached to the board while you insert the retainer ring on the top side of the board. I was worried about that because the tape went over a row of pins on the underside of the board. I'm not sure what they call them but it's those sharp silver spikes that go through the PBC board. Well the adhesive tape would lay right on top of a row of those and was worried if it would cause a short of some sort(the tape is rubber based right?)

-Do I have to use the adhesive tape? My case has a removable motherboard tray and can be layed on it's side with no problems. I had to return my motherboard because it wouldn't boot and I had to take it apart again. I get my replacement tomorrow(amazon free overnight shipping ftw again!).

-I also noticed that when I removed the water pump from the top of the CPU that the thermal paste was at least 95% intact so it looked like it was just smudged a little bit on the top right part of the cpu where it left a tiny bit of it on the cpu which I cleaned up with a paper towel. Would it be ok if I just left it like it is and just put the water pump back on like it is when I get my new board? I have some MX-2 arriving from amazon tomorrow too btw.

When I put it together the first time and turned on the power it lit up like normal but didn't get a beep from the speaker and the motherboard LED showed a "b8" or "68" code. I looked it up and it seemed like most people online think it has something to do with the memory sticks. I'll know tomorrow either way since I have 1 pair of 6GB DDR3 from kingston and 1 from OCZ both are on the compatable list.

-One last question. I attached a picture of some screws one of my friends got me at home depot. They seem to fit just fine but the only difference is these have a sharp end and was wondering if it's ok if I use these to attach one of my fans to the other side of the rad. I will be using 2 cooler master R4's in a push/pull exhaust configuration.

I'm sorry for the huge wall of text. Just wanted to get all my questions out of the way. I've had a lot on my mind lately.


----------



## EaglePC

from my post here http://www.overclock.net/8917559-post6355.html
today it all changed,only thing different it reached 85 degrees here outside compare to 40 degrees the day i had my recent post...


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EaglePC* 
from my post here http://www.overclock.net/8917559-post6355.html
today it all changed,only thing different it reached 85 degrees here outside compare to 40 degrees the day i had my recent post...










Hey man, that's a clean looking rig, has sound deadening mat right?


----------



## Syrillian

Greetings, Gents...

perhaps one of you would like to take a look at this thread...


----------



## EaglePC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Hey man, that's a clean looking rig, has sound deadening mat right?


no just all mostly all screens the coolermaster 830 se case







hmmm is that bad should the case be sealed with all these screens why so many fans for me LOL


----------



## Aqualoon

Dropped my load temp down to 47C from 53C tonight.

Replaced all the stock case fans with Xigmatek 140mm fans and Xigmatek 120mm fans. I admit that I'm vain when it comes to how my PC looks, I like these fans as they add color but aren't overly bright (especially compared to the blue LED fans that were previously in the case). I then added a Lian Li Fan Module and mounted two fans together then the rad and then another fan - creating and push/pull within the drive bay.

Here's a picture taken with a really bad camera phone, but helps get the idea of what it looks like.










The main reason for taking everything apart tonight was that I never really liked the look of the push/pull mounted on the back 120mm fan, it felt like everything was just cramped. I had extra 5.25" bay space so I took advantage of it and I'm very pleased with the outcome. Overall the case looks cleaner/space-ier and it dropped my loads by a decent amount.

Here's how nice and open it looks now near the northbridge.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

^^^^^I envy you cable management^^^^^^^


----------



## flamingoyster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anon>Implied*


Hey everyone!
Been lurking and reading this thread for the last 3 weeks while I was researching the parts for my new build. Well I got the CPU last the other day(core i7 980x ftw!) and started putting it together.

I got a few questions about the H50 installation though.

-I noticed that you put 2 strips of adhesive tape on the bracket behind the motherboard to keep it attached to the board while you insert the retainer ring on the top side of the board. I was worried about that because the tape went over a row of pins on the underside of the board. I'm not sure what they call them but it's those sharp silver spikes that go through the PBC board. Well the adhesive tape would lay right on top of a row of those and was worried if it would cause a short of some sort(the tape is rubber based right?)

-Do I have to use the adhesive tape? My case has a removable motherboard tray and can be layed on it's side with no problems. I had to return my motherboard because it wouldn't boot and I had to take it apart again. I get my replacement tomorrow(amazon free overnight shipping ftw again!).

-I also noticed that when I removed the water pump from the top of the CPU that the thermal paste was at least 95% intact so it looked like it was just smudged a little bit on the top right part of the cpu where it left a tiny bit of it on the cpu which I cleaned up with a paper towel. Would it be ok if I just left it like it is and just put the water pump back on like it is when I get my new board? I have some MX-2 arriving from amazon tomorrow too btw.

When I put it together the first time and turned on the power it lit up like normal but didn't get a beep from the speaker and the motherboard LED showed a "b8" or "68" code. I looked it up and it seemed like most people online think it has something to do with the memory sticks. I'll know tomorrow either way since I have 1 pair of 6GB DDR3 from kingston and 1 from OCZ both are on the compatable list.

-One last question. I attached a picture of some screws one of my friends got me at home depot. They seem to fit just fine but the only difference is these have a sharp end and was wondering if it's ok if I use these to attach one of my fans to the other side of the rad. I will be using 2 cooler master R4's in a push/pull exhaust configuration.

I'm sorry for the huge wall of text. Just wanted to get all my questions out of the way. I've had a lot on my mind lately.










You...you have a thermaltake level 10...














Please...share your experiences with it. I haven't seen anyone else on the forums with it! :O AND START THE THERMALTAKE LEVEL 10 CLUB!


----------



## Anon>Implied

Quote:



Originally Posted by *flamingoyster*


You...you have a thermaltake level 10...














Please...share your experiences with it. I haven't seen anyone else on the forums with it! :O AND START THE THERMALTAKE LEVEL 10 CLUB!


Yeah, I got in back in mid january. I wish I would have waited till the first week of february though. Newegg had it listed but you could only get it with a ridiculous combo that included 2 blu ray drives which made no sense at all. Then in the first week of february, newegg had it available to be sold alone for about $100 cheaper than I bought it in january.









Anyway, the case has been a total pleasure to work with. I had to RMA my motherboard yesterday and had to disassemble the whole build which I thought was going to be a chore but it was easier than I thought. The removable motherboard tray is awesome. I plan to install my components with the tray outside the case and then hook it up my psu and then see if it will actually boot this time. cable management is very easy too. Especially compared to my antec 900 which looks like an overgrown jungle. It's because of the non-modular power supply though.

One thing I wish is that they should have kept the shiny exterior of the concept models and pictures when they first showed it. But the matte finish of the final version is ok. At least it's not a finger print magnet.

A Level 10 club would be cool but it would be a tiny one that's for sure. Plus it would be filled with haters. But as they say "Haters gonna hate".


----------



## A-Dub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anon>Implied* 
A Level 10 club would be cool but it would be a tiny one that's for sure. Plus it would be filled with haters. But as they say "Haters gonna hate".









Actually, for the size of the community I'm amazed at how little trolling/flaming/hating goes on here.


----------



## Aqualoon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast* 
^^^^^I envy you cable management^^^^^^^

Wish I had a better camera to take pictures with. When I take them with my phone it just looks like a big blotch of cords when in reality it's far from it.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *A-Dub*


Actually, for the size of the community I'm amazed at how little trolling/flaming/hating goes on here.


That's why I like OCN. Haven't seen anybody in an argument since I've joined.


----------



## Magus2727

well so far my cpu is running 10*C cooler then when I had the Arctic Chiller 7... idle is about the same but under full load (a3 core folding on all 4 cores 100% load) it has only reached 44*c. so far I am loving this cooler.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


well so far my cpu is running 10*C cooler then when I had the Arctic Chiller 7... idle is about the same but under full load (a3 core folding on all 4 cores 100% load) it has only reached 44*c. so far I am loving this cooler.



. . . just out of curiousity,







WHAT did you do or do different/change anything particular 
with your H50_cooling setup and all to aquire this "positive" of result's for your sytem? ? ? ? 
_*CONGRAT's*_ for the GREAT load-temp's, tho ! !









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Aqualoon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


. . . just out of curiousity,







WHAT did you do or do different/change anything particular 
with your H50_cooling setup and all to aquire this "positive" of result's for your sytem? ? ? ? 
_*CONGRAT's*_ for the GREAT load-temp's, tho ! !









mr-Charles .









.


I believe he stated he was using a Arctic Chiller 7 previously to installing the H50 and that's what he did/change to get the positive results


----------



## mr-Charles

...thnx Aqualoon







; just wondering if he did just the fan & Rad, or did he go with using shroud's as well?? 
{ or any other changes/add-on's }

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Aqualoon

I'm not sure about him, but I found that mounting it in the front using 2 x 120mm fans as push and 1 x 120mm fan as a pull (as an intake vs exhaust) lowered my load temps by 6C.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aqualoon* 
I'm not sure about him, but I found that mounting it in the front using 2 x 120mm fans as push and 1 x 120mm fan as a pull (as an intake vs exhaust) lowered my load temps by 6C.

...just a note for ya; this is my setup for my system: > click 4 HERE < & for >> HERE << 2 C . . . . .









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Aqualoon

What's your voltage at and your load temps? I'm happy with hitting 46C load


----------



## mr-Charles

...was sittin at 50 to 52C but that was just after the install & using AS5; going to be pulling off
and reseating using MX3 here soon, but have noticed temp's upon load (P95_blend) to stand
around's the 44 to 48C mark for now since i'm taking the AS5 is curing and all.....
{ idle tend's to sit at 27 to 29C, depending upon the ambient's } This is with the "*othr-box*" system / Gigabyte setup...

*EDIT:* vcore is at 1.488v./ NB is at 1.400v./ SB is at stock(auto)

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Aqualoon

Those are some very nice load temps, specially at your volts.


----------



## mr-Charles

..thnx Aqualoon; Yeah, i got this drop from setting up within the 5.25 bay's for the Fresh Air - Intake [ on my _*"Othr-bx"*_ ] vrs. the _*"BLk-bx"*_ setup in the Sig= has the setup for at the back with only ONE shroud in the Pull figuration; i try'd it with the Push but the temp's were like 2* lower for shroud on the pull side.....

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Magus2727

I am using no shrouds... debating if I want to hack up some old fans and male some. I am using the corsair stock fan that comes with the H50, a thermaltake adjustable fan in a push pull config. I did also replace my junky thermaltake front intake fans with enermax ones that move 2 times the amount of air each then the previous. I also did some cable management...

I also have over clocked my cpu since then and running 300MHz OC. So I am running much cooler then before and with an OC when previously I did not feel comefortable even trying to OC when I was reaching the high temps I was.


----------



## nardox

I remember someone mentioned you can get screws for H50 from Home depot(for the extra fan for Push/Pull). Anyone know what kind of screws I should get?


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nardox*


I remember someone mentioned you can get screws for H50 from Home depot(for the extra fan for Push/Pull). Anyone know what kind of screws I should get?


#6x32 Machine Screws. They're 1-1/4" if you want the same length as OEM.


----------



## Forum

So, I need to ask, even thought the FAQ addressed it in the first forum post.

If I set this up with a push/pull, its going to be intake pulling cold air from outsaide the case, over the radiator and then into the case, all over my components, or warmer air through the radiator and outside of the case?

The first makes more sense to me, but blowing that hot air over my components, seems like an odd route to take, However Im using a storm scout, so I have a 140mm exhaust in the top of my case, and an intake in the front of my case, pulling cool air across the drives, and out the back, so Im a little confused as to how I should configure this setup


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Forum*


So, I need to ask, even thought the FAQ addressed it in the first forum post.

If I set this up with a push/pull, its going to be intake pulling cold air from outsaide the case, over the radiator and then into the case, all over my components, or warmer air through the radiator and outside of the case?

The first makes more sense to me, but blowing that hot air over my components, seems like an odd route to take, However Im using a storm scout, so I have a 140mm exhaust in the top of my case, and an intake in the front of my case, pulling cool air across the drives, and out the back, so Im a little confused as to how I should configure this setup


I have a 230mm fan blowing out the top in the case I had my rig in. I still got better temps with the fans on the H50 exhausting than intaking. Give both a shot and stick with the better route.


----------



## Forum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


I have a 230mm fan blowing out the top in the case I had my rig in. I still got better temps with the fans on the H50 exhausting than intaking. Give both a shot and stick with the better route.


Yeah, really might be the best bet, corsair recommends 50cfm fans, the one ive already got exhausting is like 44, tink another 44 would be sufficent? would i really see a difference ive i had a couple of higher cfms blowing?

I think I will do exhaust, just so i can keep all my other fans set up the way they are.


----------



## the.ronin

Any tried Noiseblocker Multiframe PWM fans for H50 rad cooling?










Iâ€™ve come across looser101â€™s feedback on them which werenâ€™t very good. Curious to see if anyone else has tried using them.


----------



## Forum

Should Scythe Ultra Kaze 133cfm fans be used for a push pull setup? or is it overkill









http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...20ultra%20kaze


----------



## the.ronin

Just my opinion - but I think anything that loud, although effective from a cooling standpoint, would defeat the purpose of an H50 in terms of noise.

I had 2 Scythe S-Flexes in push / pull then a single S-Flex in push and even that was too loud for me.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Forum* 
Yeah, really might be the best bet, corsair recommends 50cfm fans, the one ive already got exhausting is like 44, tink another 44 would be sufficent? would i really see a difference ive i had a couple of higher cfms blowing?

I think I will do exhaust, just so i can keep all my other fans set up the way they are.

I would just try both ways, you never know how it might work better for you


----------



## Ninja306

hi the.ronin

Here is link for conclusion on the above fans, and the full table of contents let you see/hear more about the fans, they get very good write up air/db levels.

Worth a read anyways?

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coo..._30.html#sect0

Cheers.


----------



## Forum

Quote:


Originally Posted by *the.ronin* 
Just my opinion â€" but I think anything that loud, although effective from a cooling standpoint, would defeat the purpose of an H50 in terms of noise.

I had 2 Scythe S-Flexes in push / pull then a single S-Flex in push and even that was too loud for me.


And it's a very valid opinion! I'm just not getting an h50 for its sound level, im getting it for cooling performance, so Im just trying to find a good couple of fans to use for a push pull, I still dont own an H50, so maybe you guys can share some insight with me as to which fans are going good for you all....also, does exhaust push/pull still get more vote than intake push/pull?


----------



## Ninja306

hi Forum

For me the H50 with Lancool K62 case with two 140mm 1000 rpm top fans as exhausts and H50 as intake( placed top rear of case) is working okay, better than the H50 exhausting.

Having said that I am ordering/looking at other case fans to play with, and so far have utilised spare 1500rpm 120mm fan as intake at front in the 5.25 optical bays, blowing towards the CPU.

It really is a matter of trying diff combinations to get best effect...also a PITA in some ways, but trying to get it right heat/longevity balance will probably pay dividends, so onwards and..upwards hopefully.

The H50 leaves plenty space in the case for me, its just getting the airflow right..

cheers


----------



## the.ronin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ninja306*


hi the.ronin

Here is link for conclusion on the above fans, and the full table of contents let you see/hear more about the fans, they get very good write up air/db levels.

Worth a read anyways?

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coo..._30.html#sect0

Cheers.


Thanks for that link Ninja. Very informative stuff. Seems NB makes some decent fans ala Noctua.

On another note, Iâ€™m seeing a 5C differential between my hottest (core 0) and coolest (core 3) cores. Is this a source of concern or did is my seating off? Reason Iâ€™d prefer not to re-seat is because itâ€™s the best cooling Iâ€™ve achieved so far.


----------



## Forum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ninja306*


hi Forum

For me the H50 with Lancool K62 case with two 140mm 1000 rpm top fans as exhausts and H50 as intake( placed top rear of case) is working okay, better than the H50 exhausting.

Having said that I am ordering/looking at other case fans to play with, and so far have utilised spare 1500rpm 120mm fan as intake at front in the 5.25 optical bays, blowing towards the CPU.

It really is a matter of trying diff combinations to get best effect...also a PITA in some ways, but trying to get it right heat/longevity balance will probably pay dividends, so onwards and..upwards hopefully.

The H50 leaves plenty space in the case for me, its just getting the airflow right..

cheers


Good info here, Ill experiment around with different fans, and see how they work. Also, ive read that the h50 comes with shinetsu as the stock tim, am I to assume this works awesome, and I have no reason to use aftermarket grease until i have to reseat the heatsink?


----------



## Ninja306

Hi Forum

I read that the TIM used is of very high quality, if I had the link I would pass you it, apologies..

It was an informed article, not 'just' a view of a fan of one TIM over another. Not that am saying views are not worthy..(dont bite ma heid aff other forum users please note..)

It rates highly although others here have changed with mixed results from what I have seen in the Forum pages so far.

Give stock a chance...get the airflow right and woo hooo..your away -))


----------



## Anon>Implied

Hey, I got a question about the thermal paste that comes applied to the water block.

I had to remove the wb from the cpu because I had to RMA my motherboard but I noticed just a tiny bit stayed on the CPU and most of it is still on the wb. I have attached a picture. As you can see the paste was only smudged a bit from the force of it being screwed to the CPU.

What do you guys think? Is it ok to put the wb back on the cpu without appling a new coat of thermal paste?

_Edit: Oh, and is it ok if I don't use the adhesive pads with the bracket on the back side of the motherboad? It was hard as hell getting those off the board I had to RMA. I don't think there is most more adhesive power in those pads anyone._


----------



## harrison

my pic


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anon>Implied* 
Hey, I got a question about the thermal paste that comes applied to the water block.

I had to remove the wb from the cpu because I had to RMA my motherboard but I noticed just a tiny bit stayed on the CPU and most of it is still on the wb. I have attached a picture. As you can see the paste was only smudged a bit from the force of it being screwed to the CPU.

What do you guys think? Is it ok to put the wb back on the cpu without appling a new coat of thermal paste?

_Edit: Oh, and is it ok if I don't use the adhesive pads with the bracket on the back side of the motherboad? It was hard as hell getting those off the board I had to RMA. I don't think there is most more adhesive power in those pads anyone._

For best resuts you will want to clean off the CPU and the H50 and apply a new coat of Thermal Paste.

as far as the adhesive pads I think they are there just to be hand so the back plate does not move around on you when installing the top side. if you can do both with ease you should be fine. you can always just adhesive the side to the bracket and put a thin piece of rubber on the side that mates with the MB. Thinking of some shrink wrap cut open to lay flat....


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anon>Implied*


Hey, I got a question about the thermal paste that comes applied to the water block.

I had to remove the wb from the cpu because I had to RMA my motherboard but I noticed just a tiny bit stayed on the CPU and most of it is still on the wb. I have attached a picture. As you can see the paste was only smudged a bit from the force of it being screwed to the CPU.

What do you guys think? Is it ok to put the wb back on the cpu without appling a new coat of thermal paste?

_Edit: Oh, and is it ok if I don't use the adhesive pads with the bracket on the back side of the motherboad? It was hard as hell getting those off the board I had to RMA. I don't think there is most more adhesive power in those pads anyone._



Yeah replace TIM.

You reminded me of a quick funny story with that back plate.
I went back to fry's to return another bad board. Thinking after 3-4 problematic boards my unlucky streak was over so i stuck those adhesive pads on







Fry's was about to close so i had to take it off there. I told the guy handling it i needed that plate! Well the frys "Tech" preceded to try and remove the stackcool







I let him fumble for less than 8 secs







Even more wild than that the H50 was on the invoice but was not being returned.
He got my H50 plate off with some solvents and handed it to me. then credits my invoice an extra $79.00 for the H50







I'm a pretty honest guy but if it weren't for me having to tell the mobo manager " when i'm in this store with my credit card you better be on the other side of the store







Long story

I gotta get in on this. Holy crap I'm only on page 42









I have no case at the moment due to Mobo heatsink and rad not getting along in my small case. So i had to make a tech bench... just without the bench







This was better than the rad not having a home. I still need to keep painting my media room and get a shopping cart of mounting hardware. I did this in a pinch


----------



## Anon>Implied

Ok well I decided to apply a new layer of thermal paste on the cpu and clean what is left on the water block. Thing is, the only paste I have on hand is mx-2 from last year and the paste that came with my new CPU. It's a core i7 980x if that make any difference.

It says Dow Corning TC-1996 on the intel paste that was in the box. Is it better than the mx-2? I really need to know fast because I have a long day ahead of me and I really want to get this build up and running. Thanks.

_Edit: I noticed some here posted pictures of how to apply thermal paste to the cpu with 1 pea size in the middle and 2 on top and bottom parts like in this picture I made. Is this the best method?_


----------



## mr-Charles

...only thing i am wondering: Is the monitor and kybrd&mouse/pad ALSO wallmount'd??? Gotta say, this gives 
ya more room/space for within ! ! ! Very Unique Wall_Plaster-Of & Ingenuity for going Caseless 4 sure







! ! !

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


...only thing i am wondering: Is the monitor and kybrd&mouse/pad ALSO wallmount'd??? Gotta say, this gives 
ya more room/space for within ! ! ! Very Unique Wall_Plaster-Of & Ingenuity for going Caseless 4 sure







! ! !

mr-Charles .









.



edited post above








106 inch HD Projection on the other wall but i am going to mount this little secondary lcd next to the final mount. maybe a touch screen much later







I never leave my man cave!

Body


----------



## Salami991

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Forum* 
Should Scythe Ultra Kaze 133cfm fans be used for a push pull setup? or is it overkill









http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...20ultra%20kaze

Not overkill, I would say it's more uh, awesome







.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Salami991* 
Not overkill, I would say it's more uh, awesome







.

That's what I've got! Keeps my hella hot QX6850 cool!


----------



## Garanthor

Bodycount said:


> Yeah replace TIM.
> 
> Uhmmmm...I just have to say.....that is probably one of the ugliest things... (hanging off your wall) that I have ever seen.


----------



## PathogenX

HEY!!!

I would like to join! My H50 just came in today and I will be installing it later today or tomorrow.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


[QUOTEUhmmmm...I just have to say.....that is probably one of the ugliest things... (hanging off your wall) that I have ever seen.


















Ya think! maybe you didnt read it or maybe you did. But thanks i appreciate it


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *the.ronin* 
Any tried Noiseblocker Multiframe PWM fans for H50 rad cooling?










Iâ€™ve come across looser101â€™s feedback on them which werenâ€™t very good. Curious to see if anyone else has tried using them.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *the.ronin* 
Just my opinion â€" but I think anything that loud, although effective from a cooling standpoint, would defeat the purpose of an H50 in terms of noise.

I had 2 Scythe S-Flexes in push / pull then a single S-Flex in push and even that was too loud for me.

My NBs were 140mm PK3. It seems that Noiseblocker specs noise at the fans lowest RPM. Since I didn't try those particular ones I can't comment.

Anything that increases the turbulence to the fan will make noise. I know not everyone has the room for shrouds, but they are a must to keep fans quiet, especially the pull fan. If on the rear exhaust position the case grill can also create alot of noise.

Some Fan Tests here. Pay attention to CFM at 12volts and the noise they make.


----------



## Anon>Implied

Well I got good news. Finished putting the water block after appling some thermal paste which was a pain in the ass the second time. I had to try 3 times before I made those notches on the ring go through the ones on the water block. I was a total wreck most of the process. But I was victorious! It was a total relief after I saw the gigabyte logo on screen. I used the 6GB OCZ gold memory kit for the first try and they worked.

I'm not sure if the kingston sticks were at fault but I might try those tomorrow after I'm done installing windows 7.

Is it normal for it to take forever to start installing windows after it has loaded the files from the disk? I alway hear it's very fast installing windows when you install to an SSD. I am using a crucial 256GB RealSSD as my OS drive and it's taking about the same amount of time to install windows. I set the SATA3 ports to ACHI. what gives? or is it one of those times that ACHI doesn't matter?

Oh, one more question, when I got to the screen that shows the drive you want to format and install windows to, I just hit next without formating. Did I just make a huge mistake? It seems to be installing normally at the moment.


----------



## squiggly

Hahaaa now I am hungry for a full loop! Don`t get me wrong...H50 ROX BUT....... I7 and full loop







coming soon.

Corsair Ob on the way and need to pick pcs for the setup. Feser looks like they make some serious sheet! 55MM FANS ROX!!!

3* DROP at load single fan running exhaust...


----------



## Unleash The Beast

When I tried to add shrouds to my h50 the pump came in the way and I didn't have enough room to do it. How did you guys add shrouds? I already have a push/pull setup.


----------



## Prugor

Get some old 120mm fan's and a utility knife. Hollow out the center and clean it up with some sand paper. Mount those and then attach the fans with some cable ties.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *squiggly* 
Hahaaa now I am hungry for a full loop! Don`t get me wrong...H50 ROX BUT....... I7 and full loop







coming soon.

Corsair Ob on the way and need to pick pcs for the setup. Feser looks like they make some serious sheet! 55MM FANS ROX!!!

3* DROP at load single fan running exhaust...

I'm using 2x TK-122 Feser fan's on my H50 and they are nice. The quietest fans in my system atm. Even in a TJ07, it was a pain to mount the 2x 55mm fans, H50, and Kama Bay in the front of the case. I had to use two screws for the top and cable tie the rest of the Kama Bay into the 5 1/4 drive area. Other then that, nothing but clear skies with it.


----------



## s-f-r-j

Any1 knows if i can buy this in Canada? How much would it be?

Thank you


----------



## Prugor

www.ncix.com - Canada!
www.newegg.ca


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *s-f-r-j* 
Any1 knows if i can buy this in Canada? How much would it be?

Thank you

Shopbot

You may want to make sure that the model number has a -1 at the end of it, depending on your needs. -1 is the latest version and has all the mounting brackets.


----------



## Fifth

I finally picked one of these up yesterday. I also added in 2 120mm Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000rpm fans as my push/pull. The fans are so wide I am no longer able to get a fan on the side of the case to fit lol. Looks like I'll be upgrading to an Antec 1200!!

I am impressed by the performance of it though. My idle temps aren't much different, hovering around 25-27 instead of 27-29. My load temps are awesome, I rarely see 40c overclocked at 4.0ghz @ 1.48 volts. With my old Kingwin XT-1264 I was in the mid 50's

Before









After


----------



## Fooxz

Just got a H50, my old HSF was a Tuniq Tower with a replaced PWM fan from GELID, which cooled my OCd AMD Ph 9850 3.1GHz 34idle and up to 58C full load from prime,OCCT,folding.

With my nice and fancy H50 thats set up like so...

Scythe 3K < 25mm Shroud < case wall < 25MM Shroud < H50 Rad < Inside of case

the Scythe and one 25mm fan shroud are outside of the case, then the H50 rad and another 25mm shroud are inside of the case. at first with movement of fans (two 3ks used to be the exhaust on the top of the case) my internal temp skyrocketed up to 37C!!!! but it has been very hot. now ive gotten the internal temps under control, and as i type this, i am running one SMP client and one GPU client, so gpu and cpu full load, and my processor temp is 46C!!!!

Thats right, a 12C drop!!! (and internal temps are 32C)

the scythe isnt even on full power, i have it on a fan controller, and its going at about 1k RPMs or less. i havent seen any difference in temps with an increase in speed beyond that point

Screenie









ill upload a actual photo of the setup when i get a chance


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast* 
When I tried to add shrouds to my h50 the pump came in the way and I didn't have enough room to do it. How did you guys add shrouds? I already have a push/pull setup.

Hey man, i've put my fan and shroud on the outside of the case and my h-50 rad on the inside with the shroud and the fan on the inside, like this:



Quote:


Originally Posted by *Fifth* 
I finally picked one of these up yesterday. I also added in 2 120mm Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000rpm fans as my push/pull. The fans are so wide I am no longer able to get a fan on the side of the case to fit lol. Looks like I'll be upgrading to an Antec 1200!!

I am impressed by the performance of it though. My idle temps aren't much different, hovering around 25-27 instead of 27-29. My load temps are awesome, I rarely see 40c overclocked at 4.0ghz @ 1.48 volts. With my old Kingwin XT-1264 I was in the mid 50's

Thats decent man, i'd get the Corsair 880d if i was you... infact i did, and its great, i got myself 4 ultrakaze 3k too, and my temps are as such



Nice work on the AMD!


----------



## 5291Crash

Hey guys, i have been looking at the H50 for a week or so and i'm thinking about taking the jump, but i'm wondering if anyone has seen stats on the temp drop from a Dark Knight S1283 over to the H50

Thanks all


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *5291Crash* 
Hey guys, i have been looking at the H50 for a week or so and i'm thinking about taking the jump, but i'm wondering if anyone has seen stats on the temp drop from a Dark Knight S1283 over to the H50

Thanks all

I think the Dark Night is comparable to the Noctua NH-D14 and there is some decrease... I think the biggest thing is that the H50 will run quieter then either while keeping the same temps.


----------



## s-f-r-j

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Shopbot

You may want to make sure that the model number has a -1 at the end of it, depending on your needs. -1 is the latest version and has all the mounting brackets.

Alright sir, thank you so much for info.


----------



## PCSarge

well it seems my new NZXT sentry-2 fan controller doesnt like CM R4s... kinda pisses me off >.> now i hafta find case fans that will take it they make wierd noises as if its not providing enough voltage.... yet all my other cheaper fans seem to work, thier only rated about 200 rpms less than the R4s...which makes me wonder....why R4s are so picky... i also picked up a GTS 250 today, figured id go the next step up because it was 10 bucks cheaper than the 9800gtx+ >.>


----------



## ChosenLord

New temps

H-50: UltraKaze3k-25mShroud-case wall-H-50-25mmShroud-UltraKaze3k








[/URL][/IMG]


----------



## buste2

nice temps...i still need to fix mine too lol


----------



## klote2314

i got one i dont have a cam atm can i be added to the club T_T


----------



## PCSarge

you know you can add yourself to the list on the front page? its an interactive spreadsheet


----------



## LiLChris

Glad to have the h50 for a month now.
But i plan on going to 4.4ghz soon.

Ive seen a pic here on OCN, of fan/case/rad/fan.
Is that setup viable for the h50?

Right now i have stock fan and my haf 932 fan.
Will be upgrading them soon.


----------



## Fifth

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LiLChris*


Glad to have the h50 for a month now.
But i plan on going to 4.4ghz soon.

Ive seen a pic here on OCN, of fan/case/rad/fan.
Is that setup viable for the h50?

Right now i have stock fan and my haf 932 fan.
Will be upgrading them soon.



You should see 4.4 easily, my older bro has the 930 with an H50 and he is a little bit above 4.4 w.o. any issues.

That setup will work, mines similar but i have fad/rad/fan, I bet the reason said person has it set up like that is because he didn't have enough room inside the case!

Good luck bro.


----------



## Marduke

Loving my H50.

Idle temps aren't amazing, but the thing just doesn't heat up very much under load.


----------



## LiLChris

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fifth*


You should see 4.4 easily, my older bro has the 930 with an H50 and he is a little bit above 4.4 w.o. any issues.

That setup will work, mines similar but i have fad/rad/fan, I bet the reason said person has it set up like that is because he didn't have enough room inside the case!

Good luck bro.


Nah they had alot of space. My haf 932 has alot of space, that isnt the problem. 
But if having the 1 fan completely outside making it cooler would be great. 
Just dont wanna buy screws and certain fan and it wont work so great.

Plus i got the h50 to have the inside of the case clean and empty.









Guess ill have to try it unless some1 else has it like this.


----------



## Prugor

Home Depot or Lowe's or any hardware store that carries large amounts of bolts.

Snag a package of 6-32 pan phillips head bolts with washers or nuts. You could probably get away with 2 inch ones for a 120mm fan with another fan used as a shroud (with insides removed, of course.)


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Prugor* 
Home Depot or Lowe's or any hardware store that carries large amounts of bolts.

Snag a package of 6-32 pan phillips head bolts with washers or nuts. You could probably get away with 2 inch ones for a 120mm fan with another fan used as a shroud (with insides removed, of course.)

No you can't unfortunately.

A 120mm Fan is exactly 1" deep so 2x120mm fans are exactly 2". You need 2-1/4" bolts (which you can't get at the hardware store) to do that.

What I ended up doing was cuting 1/2" bolts from the 6x32's and using them to secure my shroud or fan (whichever) to the radiator, and then connected the shroud to the fan via regular case screws.


----------



## Prugor

washers or nuts. I had to use 3 inch bolts because they didnt have what I needed. But I am using 55mm deep fans. Tossed two washers and one nut and it fit perfectly.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

I bought some screws that were the same size from Ace Hardware store and I got some longer versions of the originals in silver and flathead. It was a little too long, so I Dremmeled some off.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

My h50's pump is making a weird noise. Is it suppose to do that?


----------



## trivium nate

is it all the time or only when the pc turns on? when the pc turns on yes it makes a noise


----------



## Fifth

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Prugor*


washers or nuts. I had to use 3 inch bolts because they didnt have what I needed. But I am using 55mm deep fans. Tossed two washers and one nut and it fit perfectly.


yeah my bro and I are using the 55mm fans as well, we just bought longer bolts and cut them down to the perfect size, but your way would work just as well!

I'm going to need to get creative on adding shrouds, probably will have to have fan/shroud/case/shroud/rad/fan . Thats what sucks about the 902, the radiator cant be on the case, like fan/case/rad/fan, because it wont line up the screw holes.

I also had to cut the lip off my xfire bridge lol.


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast*


My h50's pump is making a weird noise. Is it suppose to do that?


If you *just* started using it, that can happen and its fine.

Edit: I'm assuming you just put it together based on another thread of yours.


----------



## Kvjavs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84*


If you *just* started using it, that can happen and its fine.

Edit: I'm assuming you just put it together based on another thread of yours.


Is it supposed to be making a light ticking noise? That's what mine is doing also, but I assume it's fine, there's gotta be SOMETHING moving to get that water in and out.

Also for whoever replied earlier with the goo-be-gone thing for removing the adhesive pads, I didn't need it =D Just managed to use my fingernail power and peal the pad away and luckily most of the sticky side stuck on the pad.

There was a bit left over which I pealed off but it's not sticky, yay.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84* 
If you *just* started using it, that can happen and its fine.

Edit: I'm assuming you just put it together based on another thread of yours.

Thanks, it did stop making the sound.


----------



## Prugor

Mine had this weird sound, like maybe a whine, and it stopped after a solid week of use.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


New temps

H-50: UltraKaze3k-25mShroud-case wall-H-50-25mmShroud-UltraKaze3k


Those sir, are some fine temps


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Those sir, are some fine temps










Thanks bro, leaving it over night i had all cores below 28c

Running it at stock is a joke with this set up, ambient temps are 23/24c at stock the core temps are 15c!! thats some cool ass cpu!


----------



## PCSarge

i laugh at tiger direct, went in on saturday and the price for a GTS 250 said 139.95 on the shelf, well i ended up paying that though the card rang in at 205.78 at the cash, they made a price error and lost 70.00 for not changing the shelf price. i have it at home on a slight overclock folding atm. should punch some good numbers in by 7pm when i get home


----------



## Salami991

ChosenLord, do you have any case mesh between your: shroud | rad? Currently have the whole thing mounted inside the case and it takes up a little too much space for my liking.


----------



## PCSarge

tell me what your looking to do, i mounted my rad up front in the 5.25 bays aswell in the exact same case







HAF 932 FTW

to quote a friend of mine from way back

"i can still turn my PC on....it just catches on fire when i do"


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I forget who did the mod with the 360 rad. Can anyone give an update or can he?? How is the pump holding up?

It just seems that people who do radical mods to the h50 after they post it, they dont give updates and fall off the face of the earth.









Mine is working just as well as it did when I first modded it. This week Im going to change the loop to res-pump-rad-res. Just so I can see if there is any temp difference.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
I forget who did the mod with the 360 rad. Can anyone give an update or can he?? How is the pump holding up?

It just seems that people who do radical mods to the h50 after they post it, they dont give updates and fall off the face of the earth.









Mine is working just as well as it did when I first modded it. This week Im going to change the loop to res-pump-rad-res. Just so I can see if there is any temp difference.


....WELL, How's about's some "_*Updated*__PIC's OF" for this modd of your's???















Ya know WHAT they say about's "Picture's & How they Tell the story of..." ? ! ? !

{ curious = WHAT is your Loop for now??? }

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


tell me what your looking to do, i mounted my rad up front in the 5.25 bays aswell in the exact same case







HAF 932 FTW

to quote a friend of mine from way back

"i can still turn my PC on....it just catches on fire when i do"


 Could you refer me to the refer me to where you got the bay to do that? I would like to set it up in my 932 that way as well, Sargy


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Salami991*


ChosenLord, do you have any case mesh between your: shroud | rad? Currently have the whole thing mounted inside the case and it takes up a little too much space for my liking.


hey man, if you mean is my case between the inner shroud and the rad, then yes.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


Could you refer me to the refer me to where you got the bay to do that? I would like to set it up in my 932 that way as well, Sargy










didnt buy a bay...zip ties ftw...lol

il post the pics for you when i get home tonight
if you need it ill also post a step by step xD
see link in mysig for after mount pics


----------



## Unleash The Beast

I have my h50 set up in a push/pull right now. I bought 2 120mm fans to use as shrouds, but the pump of the h50 comes in the way. Is there any other way to add shrouds other than having a fan and shroud outside of the case?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast*


I have my h50 set up in a push/pull right now. I bought 2 120mm fans to use as shrouds, but the pump of the h50 comes in the way. Is there any other way to add shrouds other than having a fan and shroud outside of the case?


mount it in your 5.25 bays! see link in my sig for pics!


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


didnt buy a bay...zip ties ftw...lol

il post the pics for you when i get home tonight
if you need it ill also post a step by step xD
see link in mysig for after mount pics


 Alright, I will check this out!







This should be promising


----------



## Salami991

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChosenLord* 
hey man, if you mean is my case between the inner shroud and the rad, then yes.



That looks like total overkill... perfect







.


----------



## richie_2010

hi ya, i just installed my new h50 about 20 mins ago. talk about a pain in the b-cheeks lol, but i was just wondering how long the paste will take to set (using stock paste)


----------



## Salami991

Should be fine after a few Prime / IBT sessions.


----------



## richie_2010

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Salami991*


Should be fine after a few Prime / IBT sessions.


cheers, just that i getting 37 idle at the min but my room is reali small and the heatings on


----------



## the.ronin

Can I just paint my optical drive without taking it apart and just painters-taping over the critical areas I don't want painted or is that ill advised?

I want to paint it a matte black so it doesn't stick out so much inside my case.


----------



## MAD_J

Quote:



Originally Posted by *the.ronin*


Can I just paint my optical drive without taking it apart and just painters-taping over the critical areas I donâ€™t want painted or is that ill advised?

I want to paint it a matte black so it doesnâ€™t stick out so much inside my case.


Personally I wouldn't take a chance with an HDD but if you really want to you could either put black tape over it or get some metal model paint from a hobby shop and a small brush and just carefully go over the parts you want black. Id advise against spray painting it.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *the.ronin*


Can I just paint my optical drive without taking it apart and just painters-taping over the critical areas I donâ€™t want painted or is that ill advised?

I want to paint it a matte black so it doesnâ€™t stick out so much inside my case.


....bad enough you'll have the fume's & overspray lingering & ooz thru the small crack's/opening's.......
Better just Hope you *DON'T* get any such upon the "_*Pickup_Eye*_ nor on the _*track's of the slider for the Eye-holder*_" . . . .
{ I just took mine apart and just paint'd to top & bottom & front to Flat-Black; used to be the White color of a drive...}

...you can go  >>HERE<<  , and look at the pic's with the top drive, 1st pic = is one of which i just took off the front and paint'd; 
(tape'd off the front "DVD/CD drv" emblem for on the front of the tray.)

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Salami991*


That looks like total overkill... perfect







.


It certainty is and that is my intention!! got a full water loop waiting to go in, just waiting for my 285 Water blocks and that will be some SERIOUS overkill!

watch this space!


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *the.ronin*


Just my opinion â€" but I think anything that loud, although effective from a cooling standpoint, would defeat the purpose of an H50 in terms of noise.

I had 2 Scythe S-Flexes in push / pull then a single S-Flex in push and even that was too loud for me.


I went with 2 Scythe S fans also from a single push corsair. The noise level was much higher than I expected, not really noisy I guess... but my Case was near silent before, you don't have to guess if it is on now or not. haha.


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *richie_2010*


hi ya, i just installed my new h50 about 20 mins ago. talk about a pain in the b-cheeks lol, but i was just wondering how long the paste will take to set (using stock paste)


No cure time or cycles needed for the stock stuff.
Install and let her rip!!


----------



## Sluggo

Hello all. I finished my install this past weekend and thought I'd share some pics. I used a push/pull intake setup at the front of the case using two Master Cooler 120mm's. Some McGyver ziptie tactics were used as you'll see, but it's effective. I've been idling at around 22C, and haven't even past 50C at full load running Prime95 for 8 hours straight. Needless to say, I'm very happy with this H50 and can't wait to get to some OC'ing.

Enjoy:


----------



## nardox

Just got the H50 and planned to put some more powerful fans on it.

I can put 2 Scythe GentleTyphoon 1850RPM model (55CFM), or 1 Scythe GT1850 and 1 Scythe Kaze Maru 2 140mm fan(90CFM) on it.

I have another 140mm 90CFM as intake for my case, one 120mm slot on the back for exhaust(this is where I want to mount the H50). The side panel is vented, and I have a reference design 5870.

Do you guys think it's more beneficial to use the H50 as exhaust or intake in my case? And how should I setup the fans?


----------



## cjc75

I'm likely about to order an H50 off Newegg...

But one question, and I figure this thread is the best place to ask it; rather then searching through all the countless hundreds of posts about the h50, looking for the answer! lol

So!

Can the black, outer sheath be removed at all, from the tubing? I am presuming that from the looks of all the pictures I have seen, this black tubing that is visible is just a plastic sheath covering a pair of clear tubes?

It is possible to remove this sheath and just have the clear tubing visible? Perhaps cut it free without having to take the unit apart?

Not that it matters as I likely won't go with an UV lights in my next build, but its a tempting thought if its possible...


----------



## Magus2727

Not that I have tried, but it appears that the black tube is hose. I dont think there is any type of coating or such. There are those who have moded the H50 to use regualr hose and expand the radiator, and ad a resivior...


----------



## Acido

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sluggo* 
Hello all. I finished my install this past weekend and thought I'd share some pics. I used a push/pull intake setup at the front of the case using two Master Cooler 120mm's. Some McGyver ziptie tactics were used as you'll see, but it's effective. I've been idling at around 22C, and haven't even past 50C at full load running Prime95 for 8 hours straight. Needless to say, I'm very happy with this H50 and can't wait to get to some OC'ing.

Enjoy:

How much difference does this configuration does it have over the recommended setup I'm ponndering wether to try this but it seems like too much work its its only 2-5degrees difference + looks messy/uggly


----------



## Salami991

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Acido* 
How much difference does this configuration does it have over the recommended setup I'm ponndering wether to try this but it seems like too much work its its only 2-5degrees difference + looks messy/uggly

Not really worth it imo, unless you're using it in an Antec P182 mini:
http://img190.imageshack.us/i/ultimateh50.jpg/


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *killer01ws6* 
No cure time or cycles needed for the stock stuff.
Install and let her rip!!

Umm... not quiet right.

Where it is true that there is no cure time for the Shin Etsu, it does like a few heat cycles to get into all the nooks and crannies of your CPU plate and pump head. Give it a day or two of normal use for this to happen.

This is due to the viscosity of the paste.


----------



## PCSarge

is so worth it >.> make my case all red and glowy in the front >.> RED LED R4's FTW! i have 10 in my HAF 932 (including the 2 in push pull intake on the H50)

so as they once said in ghostbusters

"we came, we saw, we kicked its ass!"

in these pics i have the side panel fans shut down using my sentry-2 fan controller, as they put a glare on the camera

EDIT! also added some pics of all the R4s running inside my case with the side panel off








and yes, the one mounted the rear of my pc is intake on a shroud, as it makes too much noise on direct mount, the top 3 are exhaust, H50 is intake, and side panel 4 are intake







as well as the giant 230mm that moves like no air on the front is intake, but that doesnt count >.>

so all of you R4 haters >.> you've all just met the pc you will always despise >.>


----------



## Chicken Patty

Sad day, I am no longer part of the club









I traded it for a Thermochill PA 120.2 rad. I am going to be buying a new case and doing a full loop for VGA cards and all that so figured I might as well get started on the loop. I'll be here offering help and tips though, keep'em coming fellas, I might just get another H50 in the future


----------



## Magus2727

If I ever get my Home Entertainment build done I plan on moving my H50 over to that and upgrade to a full 360 rad GPU/CPU loop.... the H50 is perfect for that kind of stuff. its low CPU load so you can stick a small quiet fan on and run almost silent.


----------



## Salami991

Damn PCSarge, I wanted some red R4s but couldn't find any UK retailers for them, only blue ones - had to settle with some more SFF21Fs







.

Oh and, is this considered stable compared with hours of Prime95? I'd rather not leave it on overnight unattended.

http://i44.tinypic.com/6hud1z.png


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Salami991* 
Damn PCSarge, I wanted some red R4s but couldn't find any UK retailers for them, only blue ones - had to settle with some more SFF21Fs







.

Oh and, is this considered stable compared with hours of Prime95? I'd rather not leave it on overnight unattended.

http://i44.tinypic.com/6hud1z.png

Run 20 Runs on HIGH or MAXIMUM with Intel Burn Test, and you'll know whether you're stable or not.

No need to run Prime 95 for hours and hours.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Sad day, I am no longer part of the club









I traded it for a Thermochill PA 120.2 rad. I am going to be buying a new case and doing a full loop for VGA cards and all that so figured I might as well get started on the loop. I'll be here offering help and tips though, keep'em coming fellas, I might just get another H50 in the future










Well, have fun with your new setup and enjoy! We expect you to still drop in and keep us real









Good luck with everything CPat!


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
Run 20 Runs on HIGH or MAXIMUM with Intel Burn Test, and you'll know whether you're stable or not.

No need to run Prime 95 for hours and hours.

ARB! mail me that side panel and front face of your HAF! i can find any decent white paint >.> or a bright red either


----------



## Sethy666

@ PC Sarge

Are you entering the April Foldathon and Chimp Challenge in May?


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
ARB! mail me that side panel and front face of your HAF! i can find any decent white paint >.> or a bright red either

LOL! mail me yours and $50 and I'll paint it for you!


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Well, have fun with your new setup and enjoy! We expect you to still drop in and keep us real









Good luck with everything CPat!


Thanks Sethy, I'll be here, ain't going no where


----------



## iGuitarGuy

I just noticed that a D14 noctua beat a stock H50 by like 8C linX.
i7 920 @4.0ghz:
Corsair H50
OCCT max temps: 76, 73, 72, 68
LinX max temps: 80, 77, 74, 72

Noctua NH-D14
OCCT max temps: 68, 66, 63, 62
LinX max temps: 72, 71, 67, 66


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


I just noticed that a D14 noctua beat a stock H50 by like 8C linX.
i7 920 @4.0ghz:
Corsair H50
OCCT max temps: 76, 73, 72, 68
LinX max temps: 80, 77, 74, 72

Noctua NH-D14
OCCT max temps: 68, 66, 63, 62
LinX max temps: 72, 71, 67, 66


Where ya been?









Yeah, we where expecting as much. The Noctua is a very good air cooler.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Where ya been?









Yeah, we where expecting as much. The Noctua is a very good air cooler.


 I have been optimizing my overclocks and setting up my FAH clients for the Chimp challenge. I will be pushing out 28,000PPD until I can setup bigadv to get 50K ppd+.
I wish I had a new rad. That would help my temps a lot. (that and a new pump instead of the H50's stock one.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


I have been optimizing my overclocks and setting up my FAH clients for the Chimp challenge. I will be pushing out 28,000PPD until I can setup bigadv to get 50K ppd+.
I wish I had a new rad. That would help my temps a lot. (that and a new pump instead of the H50's stock one.



Very nice!

You may single handedly win the Challenge for OCN if you keep that up









Id better watch my "six" or you will be all over me like a steam roller


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Very nice!

You may single handedly win the Challenge for OCN if you keep that up









Nah, some guy got 111k from his computers. I don't even know how he can without having many i7s.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Nah, some guy got 111k from his computers. I don't even know how he can without having many i7s.

Bah! It all counts... Its good to see so many H50 owners folding.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Bah! It all counts... Its good to see so many H50 owners folding.

I think OCN is going to be #1 on folding this year for the Chimp Challenge.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
I think OCN is going to be #1 on folding this year for the Chimp Challenge.


Oh yeah! Bring it on









Gonna kick some butt and take some names!


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Oh yeah! Bring it on









Gonna kick some butt and take some names!

How much PPD you get nowadays?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
How much PPD you get nowadays?

Well, Im still fine tuning but Ive seem to hit the wall at about 11k with CPU and GPU.

Usually 8-9k with the GPU and the rest I pick up on the SMP client.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Well, Im still fine tuning but Ive seem to hit the wall at about 11k with CPU and GPU.

Usually 9-8k with the GPU and the rest I pick up on the SMP client.

I wish I got 8-9k with a gpu haha. I get most of my points from cpu. my AMD at 3.5ghz gets 7-8k and my i7 @4ghz gets ~18k.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
I wish I got 8-9k with a gpu haha. I get most of my points from cpu. my AMD at 3.5ghz gets 7-8k and my i7 @4ghz gets ~18k.

Yep - we are in reverse envy









Im wishing my 8400 would pack a bit more punch. Duo cores can fold but not as fast as I would like...


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Yep - we are in reverse envy









Im wishing my 8400 would pack a bit more punch. Duo cores can fold but not as fast as I would like...


 when you have some spare cash, I could direct you to some great parts
microcenter works wonders


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


when you have some spare cash, I could direct you to some great parts
microcenter works wonders


Im thinking Quad 9550 or Quad 9650... Im awaiting a quote from one of the local PC stores.

What did you have in mind?


----------



## iGuitarGuy

im thinking just go ahead with i7 or amd setup
i can get you some serious power for 500 smackeroons
i7 860+ gigabyte=380 + memory= 500
or phenom II x6+ mobo ~ 300-400 and then +memory =500


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


im thinking just go ahead with i7 or amd setup
i can get you some serious power for 500 smackeroons
i7 860+ gigabyte=380 + memory= 500
or phenom II x6+ mobo ~ 300-400 and then +memory =500


AAhhh... Ive only just built this setup not 6 months ago,,, so I need, for the sake of my marriage, to stay with the 775 platform for awhile









That and we have just bought a new car and are going on holidays to the USA in a few months time... A new build wouldnt go down very well









Hmmm... maybe I can pick up a new CPU in the US...


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


AAhhh... Ive only just built this setup not 6 months ago,,, so I need, for the sake of my marriage, to stay with the 775 platform for awhile









That and we have just bought a new car and are going on holidays to the USA in a few months time... A new build wouldnt go down very well










 well 9550 is already almost 300 on newegg
180 on microcenter
860 is 200 on microcenter

with an 860 you can get ddr3-1600 for 100 dollars for 4gb and turn it into ddr3-2000 by overclocking to 9-9-9-24 (what i got)


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


well 9550 is already almost 300 on newegg
180 on microcenter
860 is 200 on microcenter

with an 860 you can get ddr3-1600 for 100 dollars for 4gb and turn it into ddr3-2000 by overclocking to 9-9-9-24 (what i got)


Stop! Stop tempting me!!! <feeling weak... reaching for wallet> NO!


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Stop! Stop tempting me!!! <feeling weak... reaching for wallet> NO!


 you know you want 18,000 ppd when overclocked to 4ghz with only 1.3v


----------



## TwwIX

Would it be more effective to put the radiator outside the case for the exhaust push-pull setup?


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwwIX*


Would it be more effective to put the radiator outside the case for the exhaust push-pull setup?


 no, you want the rad to be put right next to the push fan


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


AAhhh... Ive only just built this setup not 6 months ago,,, so I need, for the sake of my marriage, to stay with the 775 platform for awhile









That and we have just bought a new car and are going on holidays to the USA in a few months time... A new build wouldnt go down very well









Hmmm... maybe I can pick up a new CPU in the US...

















DO IT! Hit up a Micro Center and pick up an i7 bundle for cheap


----------



## TwwIX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


no, you want the rad to be put right next to the push fan


I have cut out the "honeycomb" on the rear of my case for better airflow.
They'd basically have direct contact with each other.
Wouldn't it make more sense to put the radiator outside, where it is cooler than inside the case?


----------



## cloudymode

Hi guys,

Just installed the H50 pump a few days ago and was curious as to whether my radiator is going at 100% or not? Is it suppose to by default? If not, where should I look in bios to adjust this?

Thanks for the input!


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwwIX*


I have cut out the "honeycomb" on the rear of my case for better airflow.
They'd basically have direct contact with each other.
Wouldn't it make more sense to put the radiator outside, where it is cooler than inside the case?


 Why dont you do intake? if you have a good top fan then that would be the best. If you are going to blow hot air from inside your case anyway, why put it on the outside and make it look worse?


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Salami991*


Damn PCSarge, I wanted some red R4s but couldn't find any UK retailers for them, only blue ones - had to settle with some more SFF21Fs







.

Oh and, is this considered stable compared with hours of Prime95? I'd rather not leave it on overnight unattended.

http://i44.tinypic.com/6hud1z.png


Hey man thats an almost identical result to mine. IBT 20 times max memory is the way i usually do it, 66c max !


----------



## Sluggo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Acido*


How much difference does this configuration does it have over the recommended setup I'm ponndering wether to try this but it seems like too much work its its only 2-5degrees difference + looks messy/uggly


The only difference is that the intake is coming from the front of the case instead of the rear. Where I installed the radiator (sandwiched between two fans) is in the lower bay housing where I felt I would get a better air tunnel effect seeing how it's enclosed on all four sides. It really wasn't that much work. I've never been too concerned with looks at the expense of temp and performance.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
well 9550 is already almost 300 on newegg
180 on microcenter
860 is 200 on microcenter

with an 860 you can get ddr3-1600 for 100 dollars for 4gb and turn it into ddr3-2000 by overclocking to 9-9-9-24 (what i got)

That is very true. Don't really need some expensive RAM. Get a set of Crucials or something that have those DlJ9, or whatever those chips are and they do close to 2000Mhz for about $100-110.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cloudymode* 
Hi guys,

Just installed the H50 pump a few days ago and was curious as to whether my radiator is going at 100% or not? Is it suppose to by default? If not, where should I look in bios to adjust this?

Thanks for the input!

Your radiator? I'm assuming you mean your pump. How did you connect your pump? Did you connect it to the board? If so I strongly suggest you get a 3pin to 4 pin molex adapter and connect it to your PSU.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
If so I strongly suggest you get a 3pin to 4 pin molex adapter and connect it to your PSU.

How come?

.


----------



## IzoAzlion

Hi guys,

Sorry, little bit of a crosspost - anyone got a decent idea of the best place to mount the H50 in a Antec 1200? I'm afraid of a struggle fitting it between the rear of the case and the heat sink on a EVGA Classified. I build her in a couple of weeks, and am worried about this >.< XD


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IzoAzlion* 
Hi guys,

Sorry, little bit of a crosspost - anyone got a decent idea of the best place to mount the H50 in a Antec 1200? I'm afraid of a struggle fitting it between the rear of the case and the heat sink on a EVGA Classified. I build her in a couple of weeks, and am worried about this >.< XD

I can't help with your case, but I have your Mobo and a large case Haf932
and when I went Push-Pull with no shroud my back fan just barely touches the classified heatsink...
depending on your case, it could be a tight fit..
I know our board is a large board, them I went with 2 5870s which are huge...
I had no choice but to get a large high flow case lol.


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
How come?

.

Most folks say to make sure the pump gets full power and RPMs it is better for the pump to be direct with the PSU


----------



## IzoAzlion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killer01ws6*


I can't help with your case, but I have your Mobo and a large case Haf932
and when I went Push-Pull with no shroud my back fan just barely touches the classified heatsink...
depending on your case, it could be a tight fit..
I know our board is a large board, them I went with 2 5870s which are huge...
I had no choice but to get a large high flow case lol.


Just googled that case, its ****ing MASSIVE! Haha

I think I'll be okay, I checked Youtube and saw a vid, but its like it cant do the push-pull idea... I might mount the original Antec 1200 fan on the outside, with the radiator against the case, and the corsair fan on the back of that... It should fit.

Basically, story is I'm moving to America - my stuff arrives at my place in America (Where we have someone to take delivery, course) today, but I dont get there till the 16th. I dont want to start building it on the 17th (Its the most important thing in the world, beside the reason I'm moving there!) to find I cant cool my CPU, and so cant turn the PC on.

Really excited about all this. I guess I'll post pics in the Antec 300/900/902/1200 thread when I get her built!!

Specs for her are in my sig


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IzoAzlion*


Just googled that case, its ****ing MASSIVE! Haha

I think I'll be okay, I checked Youtube and saw a vid, but its like it cant do the push-pull idea... I might mount the original Antec 1200 fan on the outside, with the radiator against the case, and the corsair fan on the back of that... It should fit.

Basically, story is I'm moving to America - my stuff arrives at my place in America (Where we have someone to take delivery, course) today, but I dont get there till the 16th. I dont want to start building it on the 17th (Its the most important thing in the world, beside the reason I'm moving there!) to find I cant cool my CPU, and so cant turn the PC on.

Really excited about all this. I guess I'll post pics in the Antec 300/900/902/1200 thread when I get her built!!

Specs for her are in my sig










Hey man, alot of ppl are having trouble with this,

this is my solution, (baring in mind my UltraKaze are 38mm thick)





sorry for the shoddy pic


----------



## Salami991

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


Hey man thats an almost identical result to mine. IBT 20 times max memory is the way i usually do it, 66c max !


I guess shrouds do make that extra bit of difference, do you have your kazes running at full speed? At 2k IBT peaked at 71C for me, 2.5k brought it down to 69C peak.


----------



## IzoAzlion

ChosenLord,

Do you have any issues with screwing the fans into the radiator from either side, did you need longer screws, etc, or was it all standard gear and turned out okay?










Thats a similar idea to what I was thinking, anyway, thank you for posting the pic


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Salami991*


I guess shrouds do make that extra bit of difference, do you have your kazes running at full speed? At 2k IBT peaked at 71C for me, 2.5k brought it down to 69C peak.










I run em at full speed when i'm using my pc, but turn all fans down when i'm afk, they make almost no noise at 6v but at full 3k they are loud!

The Shrouds make a big difference too!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IzoAzlion*


ChosenLord,

Do you have any issues with screwing the fans into the radiator from either side, did you need longer screws, etc, or was it all standard gear and turned out okay?










Thats a similar idea to what I was thinking, anyway, thank you for posting the pic










MAN don't remind me, i had the worst saturday of my LIFE trying to find screws for this, the pics show lots of electrical tape!! but i've since removed the tape and found a way,

So what i did was use the stock screws in diagonal to attach the shrouds and fix it to my case, i then found 50mm (length) bolts and bolted the ultrakaze on top of the shrouds and taped up the gap. its hard to explain without showing, but your average hardware should have the right screws, i bought so many before i found something that fit!! its all because the ultrakaze are 38mm! the Deltas i have on the way are 56mm, they will be fun to mount!!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwwIX*


I have cut out the "honeycomb" on the rear of my case for better airflow.
They'd basically have direct contact with each other.
Wouldn't it make more sense to put the radiator outside, where it is cooler than inside the case?


You would thinks so, wouldnt you? Thats what I did when I had it in exhaust config and it didnt make much difference.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
@ PC Sarge

Are you entering the April Foldathon and Chimp Challenge in May?

i might get in on it, depends on when it is, i work a tight shift these days xD though i let my folding run the entire day lol 7600ish PPD on a slightly oc'd GeForce GTS 250 xD


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChosenLord* 
the Deltas i have on the way are 56mm, they will be fun to mount!!

PM me if you want some screws, I'll throw them in the mail. Got some 3" long.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
LOL! mail me yours and $50 and I'll paint it for you!









lol just tell me where you got the paint and primer >.>


----------



## buste2

I wish i could mount it on the outside. I just can't get over the fact I have something outside hanging lol


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Yep - we are in reverse envy









Im wishing my 8400 would pack a bit more punch. Duo cores can fold but not as fast as I would like...

correction... my E7400 folds at a rate of about 5kish PDD if i run regular clients lol i'm just a bit lazy and not around to watch temps, i have a specia side panel exhaust that suchs the heat out from my GTS 250 heatsink, so idc about it, it sits around 57C under a high stress fold


----------



## Gamer911TT

quick question. Does the H50 radiator fit through 3 5.25" bays or is it too big?


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gamer911TT*


quick question. Does the H50 radiator fit through 3 5.25" bays or is it too big?



you can look for  >>> HERE <<<  and judge for yourself of how much of 
the 3rd to 4th _ 5.25 bay is used/taken'd up . . .
. . .[ cuz of the Rad & Removable-tray setup, it stick's into the 4th bay a bit, for mine . . .]

{ just bear in mind that i have this whole setup upon a tray
for in the first bay...}

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Aqualoon

Mine fits in 3


----------



## ExperimentX

Fits in 3 and you can slap some 147cdm Delta's on there for best results


----------



## Gamer911TT

I'm asking because my case has only 4 5.25" bays and 1 is being used for the CD-Rom Drive but looking at Mr.Charles' picture the radiator gets in the way of the 4th bay a bit. Are you guys sure it fits in 3?


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gamer911TT*


I'm asking because my case has only 4 5.25" bays and 1 is being used for the CD-Rom Drive but_ looking at Mr.Charles' picture the radiator gets in the way of the 4th bay a bit_. Are you guys sure it fits in 3?



....this *MAYBE* only because of my setup being place'd upon the "Removable-tray" for which i have;
i have seen for other's that Have installed for within the 3 bay area. Being in a "Tight-Fit" situation?? 
=That answer you would be in need of asking for them as well as looking at any pic's from
them and their setup for within the 3 bay area . . . .

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gamer911TT*


quick question. Does the H50 radiator fit through 3 5.25" bays or is it too big?


IT WILL FIT in 3 5.25 bays, if you turn the rad with the hoses to the side, because those top & bottom 2 metal pieces will be out of the way









oh and hi willy


----------



## GAMERIG

@mr-Charles

you are genius!








Tool-free mechanical design how it looks!


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


@mr-Charles

you are genius!

Tool-free mechanical design how it looks!



{ did you by chance checkout & see for  >> THIS <<  , it's pretty much WHAT it stand's to look like after painting and all; 
just didn't get the screw's cut down, nor the Rubber Silicone Seal for between the shroud's and the RAD before i took the pic..}

. . . . thnx,







. . .







. . . i tink.....






























mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gamer911TT* 
quick question. Does the H50 radiator fit through 3 5.25" bays or is it too big?


Sure can!

As you have seen there are plenty of us who have done it. If you cant think of a cool engineering solution... use zip ties - works for me


----------



## Ninja306

Hi,

Someone please keep me right..H50 and Assus P6TD motherboard..

At the moment, the Corsair stock 4 pin fan is attached to the 'CPU fan' header at the top of the mobo..the 3 pin pump fan is in a nearby '3 pin cha2' header which I take to be short to mean chassis fan header no 2?

(There is also a '3 pin pwr' header available to me for info)

I have ordered a phobya 3 pin fan 'y splitter' and the two fans, for push/pull I will be getting will be 3 pin, possibly Noiseblocker s3's)

Finally the question(s)..lol

1. Am I right in thinking the 3 pin to 2 x 3 pin splitter cable, will go into the four pin CPU header, and then the two (when bought) 3 pin fans, whatever I end up going for, can attach to the splitter, without causing the insides of the PC to detonate.. -)

I read that a 3 pin can go into a four pin..but not other way round..am I getting myself confused.

2. The pump fan cable which is 3 pin, can that be moved (depending on the length) to the 3 pin 'pwr header' if I wanted it to or it is just as well where it is..Please don't suggest pump fan cable direct to PSU.."ma heids bursting as it is.."

3. Not withstanding the above..the 3 pin 'pwr header' which is free can be used for...another 3 pin fan perhaps?

4. What is the difference between 3 pin chassis fan header and 3 pin pwr header? .. apart from their names..

Too much reading on the web has got me unsure so am hoping for definitve answers..

I do thank you..bows to the Forum members here present..lol (waits for the rotten tomatoes to be thrown..)


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ninja306* 
Hi,

Someone please keep me right..H50 and Assus P6TD motherboard..

At the moment, the Corsair stock 4 pin fan is attached to the 'CPU fan' header at the top of the mobo..the 3 pin pump fan is in a nearby '3 pin cha2' header which I take to be short to mean chassis fan header no 2?

(There is also a '3 pin pwr' header available to me for info)

I have ordered a phobya 3 pin fan 'y splitter' and the two fans, for push/pull I will be getting will be 3 pin, possibly Noiseblocker s3's)

Finally the question(s)..lol

1. Am I right in thinking the 3 pin to 2 x 3 pin splitter cable, will go into the four pin CPU header, and then the two (when bought) 3 pin fans, whatever I end up going for, can attach to the splitter, without causing the insides of the PC to detonate.. -)

I read that a 3 pin can go into a four pin..but not other way round..am I getting myself confused.

2. The pump fan cable which is 3 pin, can that be moved (depending on the length) to the 3 pin 'pwr header' if I wanted it to or it is just as well where it is..Please don't suggest pump fan cable direct to PSU.."ma heids bursting as it is.."

3. Not withstanding the above..the 3 pin 'pwr header' which is free can be used for...another 3 pin fan perhaps?

4. What is the difference between 3 pin chassis fan header and 3 pin pwr header? .. apart from their names..

Too much reading on the web has got me unsure so am hoping for definitve answers..

I do thank you..bows to the Forum members here present..lol (waits for the rotten tomatoes to be thrown..)

I think you worrying too much.








When I installed mine, I put the 3 pin to the nearest 3 pin on my motherboard and did that same with the 4pin. They run near max rpm when I check in my bios.


----------



## Ninja306

Thanks ...not quite what I was looking for, but hey made me smile..yes the pump fan works fine, i can monitor it from Assus utility and its full on, its the knowledge I seek from the members here, which I why am posting what seems to most maybe to be a simple set of questions. In time i hope it will look simple to me to.

Knowledge is power...dodges the first tomatoe..lol

Thanks for replying though..and quick!


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ninja306* 
Thanks ...not quite what I was looking for, but hey made me smile..yes the pump fan works fine, i can monitor it from Assus utility and its full on, its the knowledge I seek from the members here, which I why am posting what seems to most maybe to be a simple set of questions. In time i hope it will look simple to me to.

Knowledge is power...dodges the first tomatoe..lol

Thanks for replying though..and quick!

No problem, sorry I couldn't answer your question, I just finished my first build two days ago so I don't know much.


----------



## Ninja306

Hey, least you did a build..I just bought one..kudos to you.


----------



## whoisron

has anyone tested this out yet? i can't really find many reviews on this product.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/90..._1800_RPM.html
supposely this 1 single fan is better than two 120 x 25 mm fans in P/P config.

would this outperform two GT15's in P/P config while also producing less noise?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *whoisron*


has anyone tested this out yet? i can't really find many reviews on this product.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/90..._1800_RPM.html
supposely this 1 single fan is better than two 120 x 25 mm fans in P/P config.

would this outperform two GT15's in P/P config while also producing less noise?


haven't seen any reviews but the massive shrouding provided by the 55mm fan should really help.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *whoisron*


has anyone tested this out yet? i can't really find many reviews on this product.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/90..._1800_RPM.html
supposely this 1 single fan is better than two 120 x 25 mm fans in P/P config.

would this outperform two GT15's in P/P config while also producing less noise?


No. Tried one earlier this afternoon. Louder than GT with shroud. Similar performance. Alot more money.








YouTube- R3 Triebwerk TFC TK 122







YouTube- R3 GentleTyphoon AP 15


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:



....WELL, How's about's some "Updated_PIC's OF" for this modd of your's???
Ya know WHAT they say about's "Picture's & How they Tell the story of..." ? ! ? !

{ curious = WHAT is your Loop for now??? }

mr-Charles .



Sorry it took so long to respond. Just got flooded with school work. 
my loop is currently setup as res-rad-pump-res. my GPU is in RMA so no desktop computer. perfect time to switch the loop and double check my lapping is flat.


----------



## xMEATWADx95x

Does anyone know if the h50 will fit a danger den torture rack? I can't link cuz I'm on my iPhone but if u could take a look that would REALLY help me, thanks


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xMEATWADx95x* 
Does anyone know if the h50 will fit a danger den torture rack? I can't link cuz I'm on my iPhone but if u could take a look that would REALLY help me, thanks

The thing with that is how are you going to mount it. Unless you take it apart to run the tubing through the tubing holes you are ****ed. I tried and couldn't figure out a way. I tried each fan hole, spacing it out up, down, left, right. Just didn't work. So What I did was buy a Sunbeam PCI Wherever Rack and mount it like this:


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *whoisron* 
has anyone tested this out yet? i can't really find many reviews on this product.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/90..._1800_RPM.html
supposely this 1 single fan is better than two 120 x 25 mm fans in P/P config.

would this outperform two GT15's in P/P config while also producing less noise?

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/coo...est-case-fan/5


----------



## xMEATWADx95x

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
The thing with that is how are you going to mount it. Unless you take it apart to run the tubing through the tubing holes you are ****ed. I tried and couldn't figure out a way. I tried each fan hole, spacing it out up, down, left, right. Just didn't work. So What I did was buy a Sunbeam PCI Wherever Rack and mount it like this:










Can u mount it on the inside and a fan on the outside????


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xMEATWADx95x* 
Can u mount it on the inside and a fan on the outside????

Yes you can, not a problem. either way works.


----------



## xMEATWADx95x

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Yes you can, not a problem. either way works.


Wait.....u can?? I thought u just said u can't?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xMEATWADx95x*


Wait.....u can?? I thought u just said u can't?


You mean inside the rack? Sorry I thought you meant on the other side of the Whereever rack. No, the inside of the rack the holes will not line up because of the housing on the rad.


----------



## xMEATWADx95x

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


You mean inside the rack? Sorry I thought you meant on the other side of the Whereever rack. No, the inside of the rack the holes will not line up because of the housing on the rad.


Can u mount on bottom fan hole and run block thro top fan hole to the CPU?


----------



## ZaG

Im buying this cooler this weekend i have this case 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...239&Tpk=k%2062

Any suggested fan setups and what fans do i buy when i go to Micro center oh and this thing will be ontop of an i7 920 @ 4.0Ghz CO 1.437 Volts!

Thanks


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xMEATWADx95x*


Can u mount on bottom fan hole and run block thro top fan hole to the CPU?


I believe I tried that and don't think it reached. You can try that though as I might have not tried that particular configuration.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ZaG*


Im buying this cooler this weekend i have this case 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...239&Tpk=k%2062

Any suggested fan setups and what fans do i buy when i go to Micro center oh and this thing will be ontop of an i7 920 @ 4.0Ghz CO 1.437 Volts!

Thanks


You might have a task cooling that thing with that much voltage. However, I would try both ways, some people have better results exhausting, some have better intaking. However, for the majority I saw exhausting yields the best temps.


----------



## ZaG

So What happens if i put 2 Exaust on the RAD? and i Have a sythe Mugen 2 so I Have 1 Slip stream


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ZaG*


So What happens if i put 2 Exaust on the RAD? and i Have a sythe Mugen 2 so I Have 1 Slip stream


That would be interesting to try, not sure. You should try that and post your results. Maybe it works better than push and pull. Wonder if anybody who has tried this would like to post up the results.


----------



## ZaG

I definitely will and hey I see you alot in the EVGA x58 sli le thread... lol and ill have the cooler by Saturday!


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ZaG*


I definitely will and hey I see you alot in the EVGA x58 sli le thread... lol and ill have the cooler by Saturday!


Yeah i'm in there, have had the board for over a year now. However, I have the 3x sli.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


My NBs were 140mm PK3. It seems that Noiseblocker specs noise at the fans lowest RPM. Since I didn't try those particular ones I can't comment.

Anything that increases the turbulence to the fan will make noise. I know not everyone has the room for shrouds, but they are a must to keep fans quiet, especially the pull fan. If on the rear exhaust position the case grill can also create alot of noise.


i laugh at this comment, i'm running p/p intake w/ no shrouds, my R4s make no noise at all lol


----------



## drBlahMan

_I'm slowly working on a new build and I have been really considering to use the H50, simply because I will be able to occupy all dim slots with memory w/tall heat fins._ So this leads me to (*2*) questions...

*1.* Is it best to have as much positive air pressure inside the case for the H50 to be installed in a push/pull setup to exhaust?

*2.* Also is there anybody who has experienced better core temps @ 100% load using this H50 after using the Megahalems?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drBlahMan* 
_I'm slowly working on a new build and I have been really considering to use the H50, simply because I will be able to occupy all dim slots with memory w/tall heat fins._ So this leads me to (*2*) questions...

*1.* Is it best to have as much positive air pressure inside the case for the H50 to be installed in a push/pull setup to exhaust?

*2.* Also is there anybody who has experienced better core temps @ 100% load using this H50 after using the Megahalems?

positive pressure is good, too much will be a problem

as far as the megahalems....it depends on your case and room temps...
i've seen a few better ones in the thread, and a few that were worse (with room temps of about 31C)
the best part of the H50... is the silence factor over air coolers...and the space factor


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i laugh at this comment, i'm running p/p intake w/ no shrouds, my R4s make no noise at all lol


I think you mean that you can't hear them over the noise from all your other case fans which are also R4s. If they make no noise then they are stopped. lol


----------



## richie_2010

hi ive been running prime 95 on my cpu 4 bout 3 hrs and the higest the temp has got 2 is 50oc, is this ok or do you think it should be cooler

i am in a small room which is warm and the case is the antec 902


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *richie_2010* 
hi ive been running prime 95 on my cpu 4 bout 3 hrs and the higest the temp has got 2 is 50oc, is this ok or do you think it should be cooler

i am in a small room which is warm and the case is the antec 902

You are good up to 55C. What clocks are you running?


----------



## richie_2010

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


You are good up to 55C. What clocks are you running?


200 x 18 and 2200 on nb instead of 2000, lowered my voltage on chip to 1.36 from stock 1.4


----------



## Ninja306

Zag..

I have the K62 with H50, i7 oc @4ghz etc..it all runs maybe a litle warm, so far the best thing I have done was to use the spare Lian li from rear, (when it was replaced with H50 Corsair fan), and slide into the optical bays above the front lower 140mm fan.

This 120 fan blows into the case across the vapor X 5870 card and has helped air flow and temps.

Have ordered lian li 120 led fan 1500rpm to replace it so will have two led lit fans at the front. The (then) spare 120 fan will go on as push/pull for now to see if any temps difference noted before I take plunge and order two higher spec fans for the H50 radiator.

Also ordered 1 x 140 led Lian li fan with 1200rpm for either front lower bay or for one of the two upper 140 fans which exhaust at 1000rpm.

As for push/pull..with K62 ..intake has proven best for me, but each to their own, I think the two top exhaust fans help with the rear H50 as intake.

Hope that assists you in any way.


----------



## richie_2010

ive just thought my case has 200mm exaustat top and 2 120mm intakes at front and one at side so with my h50 exausting its pulling air from near nb and mem which be warmer !!!!!!!! will try intakes tomo, got try take my case fan out from back and its wired into speed controller


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IzoAzlion*


Just googled that case, its ****ing MASSIVE! Haha

I think I'll be okay, I checked Youtube and saw a vid, but its like it cant do the push-pull idea... I might mount the original Antec 1200 fan on the outside, with the radiator against the case, and the corsair fan on the back of that... It should fit.

Basically, story is I'm moving to America - my stuff arrives at my place in America (Where we have someone to take delivery, course) today, but I dont get there till the 16th. I dont want to start building it on the 17th (Its the most important thing in the world, beside the reason I'm moving there!) to find I cant cool my CPU, and so cant turn the PC on.

Really excited about all this. I guess I'll post pics in the Antec 300/900/902/1200 thread when I get her built!!

Specs for her are in my sig










Welcome to America! 

Yea, my case is a tad large, which is why I gave caution on the config working on a smaller case.. I knew with having the two 5870s I was going to need a good size case for them to fit as well as cooling.


----------



## Salami991

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drBlahMan* 
*2.* Also is there anybody who has experienced better core temps @ 100% load using this H50 after using the Megahalems?

Although I have no picture proof I've found that on average my H50 gives me 7C lower temps. than my old Mega Shadow. @4GHz for example my Mega Shadow would be going 76C+ in IBT before I stopped it, H50 spikes to 70-71C but hovers around 69C.


----------



## tdesbien31

i have a question guys, i have this set up with the stock fan that came with the H50, what do i need to attack a 2nd fan for push/pull setup?

i guess what im asking is how or what is the best way to attack a pull fan for push/pull?


----------



## PCSarge

everyone post what you thing i should upgrade my sig rig with from www.tigerdirect.ca

i will have $1100 from my tax return by friday and its already burning holes in my pockets

i know its off topic!

AND I DONT CARE! MUHAHAHA!


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
everyone post what you thing i should upgrade my sig rig with from www.tigerdirect.ca

i will have $1100 from my tax return by friday and its already burning holes in my pockets

i know its off topic!

AND I DONT CARE! MUHAHAHA!

Do you have a MicroCenter near you? If you do, that would be the best bet instead of TigerDirect.


----------



## Magus2727

Find two fans that produce the most CFM / Pressure that you can stand the Noise associated with them and combine them with or with out shrouds. You will get better results with a shroud. Alot of people like the Yate Loon but can be more noise then people like. the deeper the fan usualy more pressure is achived. a 25mm thick fan may push as much as a 32 or 38 thick but the thicker one will usualy keep the air flow better then the thiner fan.

Many people tare apart 2 old case fans and use them as shrouds.

Do you have any other questions?


----------



## tdesbien31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
Find two fans that produce the most CFM / Pressure that you can stand the Noise associated with them and combine them with or with out shrouds. You will get better results with a shroud. Alot of people like the Yate Loon but can be more noise then people like. the deeper the fan usualy more pressure is achived. a 25mm thick fan may push as much as a 32 or 38 thick but the thicker one will usualy keep the air flow better then the thiner fan.

Many people tare apart 2 old case fans and use them as shrouds.

Do you have any other questions?

yes HOW TO ATTACH, as in how long screws, long thin bolts with nuts, how do i get them on the radiator? do i need to get another set of those long screws and washers to attack another fan?


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tdesbien31* 
i have a question guys, i have this set up with the stock fan that came with the H50, what do i need to attack a 2nd fan for push/pull setup?

i guess what im asking is how or what is the best way to attack a pull fan for push/pull?

Hey TB,
if you go back and read from the beginning of this thread (long I know lol)
You see all of the suggestions and you may find someone that has a setup near to yours to help you decide... OR the best way is to just try it yourself..
once you have the setup in place, it is only 5 min or so to change it from a intake to an exhaust or vise versa.

ME:
I had the Orig setup with stock fan as intake as suggested by corsair..
I have a case with a LOT of airflow and I could feel some serious heat out the top fan..
I changed my system to a push-pull exhaust and I saw a small drop over the single fan intake setup.
BUT my fans all of my exhaust fans now blow cool air and my inside the case temps are better,
I could turn the push-pull to intake and get a few *C lower CPU temps I have zero doubt, but I live in GA and heat can be an issue, so a few *C lower CPU but higher SYSTEM temps was not worth the over all trade off for me...
I have two heat generating 5870s and had to consider keeping them cool also..

Your mileage may very.


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tdesbien31* 
yes HOW TO ATTACH, as in how long screws, long thin bolts with nuts, how do i get them on the radiator? do i need to get another set of those long screws and washers to attack another fan?

No, as stated in this thread a few times... before..
You can use two screws in diag corners on each fan and be fine till you find new screws or you can leave it that way.
I have not added any further screws yet to date.. works great.


----------



## tdesbien31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killer01ws6*


No, as stated in this thread a few times... before..
You can use two screws in diag corners on each fan and be fine till you find new screws or you can leave it that way.
I have not added any further screws yet to date.. works great.


kinda confused what you mean, so you mean you have 2 screws holding each fan in rather than 4 holding each fan in?

If thats the case, do you get vibrations or snything?


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tdesbien31*


yes HOW TO ATTACH, as in how long screws, long thin bolts with nuts, how do i get them on the radiator? do i need to get another set of those long screws and washers to attack another fan?


Sorry... you might want to fix your typo... I thought you wanted to know start the over all process since you said you wanted to know how to attack adding a second fan....


----------



## SilverPotato

Add me! Running push/pull Scythe 1800RPM


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SilverPotato*


Add me! Running push/pull Scythe 1800RPM










The google table on the first post is enteractive and requires you adding your self... Welcome!!


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


Do you have a MicroCenter near you? If you do, that would be the best bet instead of TigerDirect.


sadly no, i live a half hour drive from tiger direct, and mixcrocenter isnt so common in canada >.>


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


sadly no, i live a half hour drive from tiger direct, and mixcrocenter isnt so common in canada >.>


 Dang, Microcenter could shave off 1/3 of the price so you could get more stuffffffff

TigerDirect is so priceyy


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


everyone post what you thing i should upgrade my sig rig with from www.tigerdirect.ca

i will have $1100 from my tax return by friday and its already burning holes in my pockets

i know its off topic!

AND I DONT CARE! MUHAHAHA!


What about newegg.ca? They would have better prices on a lot of stuff. With 1100 bucks, I'd get either real water cooling or redo most of your rig (new mobo, new processor, new ram).


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tdesbien31*


kinda confused what you mean, so you mean you have 2 screws holding each fan in rather than 4 holding each fan in?

If thats the case, do you get vibrations or snything?



Put one screw in the top right and one in bottom left on the out side fan from the rad, then on the back side of the inside fan use a screw in the top left and one in the bottom right.

No, I get no vibration or noise from this.
I do plan on adding at least 2 more screws to the fan holding the weight of the rad and fan (outside screws)
but the two that are just holding the fan to the rad in the back, I may or may not add... no really weight or concerns on that one.


----------



## tdesbien31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killer01ws6*


Put one screw in the top right and one in bottom left on the out side fan from the rad, then on the back side of the inside fan use a screw in the top left and one in the bottom right.

No, I get no vibration or noise from this.
I do plan on adding at least 2 more screws to the fan holding the weight of the rad and fan (outside screws)
but the two that are just holding the fan to the rad in the back, I may or may not add... no really weight or concerns on that one.


gotcha, you were a great help

+rep


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tdesbien31* 
gotcha, you were a great help

+rep

Glad I could help.
Let us know your results.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dude120*


What about newegg.ca? They would have better prices on a lot of stuff. With 1100 bucks, I'd get either real water cooling or redo most of your rig (new mobo, new processor, new ram).


i have this problem... i am very impatient....when i say i'm gonna do it it means saturday i hit tiger direct and go berserk, pick some stuff, though when i switch, i can say my C2D E7400 had a great run for the last couple years

the point is i need help choosing... my other worry is are i7s OCable or are they permanently locked multis cause id like to push an I7 to its limit >.>

the question is, which one, which mobo, and which RAM (though i do like OCZ products alot)


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i have this problem... i am very impatient....when i say i'm gonna do it it means saturday i hit tiger direct and go berserk, pick some stuff, though when i switch, i can say my C2D E7400 had a great run for the last couple years

the point is i need help choosing... my other worry is are i7s OCable or are they permanently locked multis cause id like to push an I7 to its limit >.>

the question is, which one, which mobo, and which RAM (though i do like OCZ products alot)


 If you go p55 you can definitely afford a good gpu as well. i7s can easily be overclocked to 4ghz on just the h50.


----------



## LiLChris

I was going to finally put my h50 with some good push/pull fans - gentle typhoons.

Instead of my haf 932 / corsair fan...BUT! they mixed up my order and sent me some low rpm/cfm fans from scythe. And now i wont get them till monday.

And its getting freaking hotter in Florida ugh!


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*


_I'm slowly working on a new build and I have been really considering to use the H50, simply because I will be able to occupy all dim slots with memory w/tall heat fins._ So this leads me to (*2*) questions...

*1.* Is it best to have as much positive air pressure inside the case for the H50 to be installed in a push/pull setup to exhaust?

*2.* Also is there anybody who has experienced better core temps @ 100% load using this H50 after using the Megahalems?


in stock confirguration the Mega owned my H50, with some decent push and pull fans in exhaust in my case it outperformed the Mega by a decent amount.


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i have this problem... i am very impatient....when i say i'm gonna do it it means saturday i hit tiger direct and go berserk, pick some stuff, though when i switch, i can say my C2D E7400 had a great run for the last couple years

the point is i need help choosing... my other worry is are i7s OCable or are they permanently locked multis cause id like to push an I7 to its limit >.>

the question is, which one, which mobo, and which RAM (though i do like OCZ products alot)


The i5 750 is a good choice, and performs on par with the i7 most of the time in most games, and it should save you some $$$. However, its not as good for things like multitasking and video encoding. I'm not sure how good it is for overclocking though. Most i7's are guaranteed to hit 4.2 Ghz + as long as they are D0 stepping (if you do go i7). For a mobo, EVGA, ASUS, and Gigabyte and MSI are the brands you want to stick to. (I can recommend a specific board based on whether you go for a processor using the 1156 socket(i7, i5) or 1366 (i7). On ram, based on your preference almost anything G-Skill, Corsair, or Patriot would be brands I would stick to, however if your dead set on getting OCZ ram, they are a pretty good brand as well. Also how are you planning on pushing an i7 to the max using an h50? They cool well, but there will be a huge difference cooling your C2D vs an i7. (time for ln2 or a TEC, don't you think?)
Edit: If your going for 4.0-4.2 GHz, then the h50 should be fine as long as its in push/pull config.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dude120* 
The i5 750 is a good choice, and performs on par with the i7 most of the time in most games, and it should save you some $$$. However, its not as good for things like multitasking and video encoding. I'm not sure how good it is for overclocking though. Most i7's are guaranteed to hit 4.2 Ghz + as long as they are D0 stepping (if you do go i7). For a mobo, EVGA, ASUS, and Gigabyte and MSI are the brands you want to stick to. (I can recommend a specific board based on whether you go for a processor using the 1156 socket(i7, i5) or 1366 (i7). On ram, based on your preference almost anything G-Skill, Corsair, or Patriot would be brands I would stick to, however if your dead set on getting OCZ ram, they are a pretty good brand as well. Also how are you planning on pushing an i7 to the max using an h50? They cool well, but there will be a huge difference cooling your C2D vs an i7. (time for ln2 or a TEC, don't you think?)
Edit: If your going for 4.0-4.2 GHz, then the h50 should be fine as long as its in push/pull config.

With the h50 the i5 750 can go to 4.2ghz too. I got mine to 4ghz right now and on load my temps are around 65*


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast*


With the h50 the i5 750 can go to 4.2ghz too. I got mine to 4ghz right now and on load my temps are around 65*


What are you testing with? IBT or Prime95?

We tend to push Intel Burn Test (20 Runs on Maximum) to ensure stability. It puts such a higher load on CPU's compared to Prime95, that you can pretty much bank on it being stable after 20runs of IBT, as opposed to hours and hours of Prime95, in which a lot of people still get instability after hours of testing.

If you're hitting 65c in IBT @ 4GHz, yeah hit 4.2GHz and see what its at.

Stress Testing is putting a load that your CPU will most likely never hit for an extended period of time.


----------



## xMEATWADx95x

what rpm does the stock corsair fan run at becuase id like to know wich fan in fanspeed is the corsair fan


----------



## looser101

~1700rpm


----------



## Frankie007

help I'm idling at 49c and on load I hit 81c


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Frankie007* 
help I'm idling at 49c and on load I hit 81c

Using stock fan, reapplied TIM, what have you done to try and better the temps?

Things you can try if you haven't

-Reseat cooler
-re apply some fresh TIM, stock one is just too much
-Tighten/loosen cooler
- connect pump to PSU and not to MOBO header


----------



## Frankie007

what should i be looking at the core temps or the cpu temps?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Frankie007* 
what should i be looking at the core temps or the cpu temps?

Core.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
What are you testing with? IBT or Prime95?

We tend to push Intel Burn Test (20 Runs on Maximum) to ensure stability. It puts such a higher load on CPU's compared to Prime95, that you can pretty much bank on it being stable after 20runs of IBT, as opposed to hours and hours of Prime95, in which a lot of people still get instability after hours of testing.

If you're hitting 65c in IBT @ 4GHz, yeah hit 4.2GHz and see what its at.

Stress Testing is putting a load that your CPU will most likely never hit for an extended period of time.

Yes the 65* i got was from IBT. But, i only ran 15 runs.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dude120* 
The i5 750 is a good choice, and performs on par with the i7 most of the time in most games, and it should save you some $$$. However, its not as good for things like multitasking and video encoding. I'm not sure how good it is for overclocking though. Most i7's are guaranteed to hit 4.2 Ghz + as long as they are D0 stepping (if you do go i7). For a mobo, EVGA, ASUS, and Gigabyte and MSI are the brands you want to stick to. (I can recommend a specific board based on whether you go for a processor using the 1156 socket(i7, i5) or 1366 (i7). On ram, based on your preference almost anything G-Skill, Corsair, or Patriot would be brands I would stick to, however if your dead set on getting OCZ ram, they are a pretty good brand as well. Also how are you planning on pushing an i7 to the max using an h50? They cool well, but there will be a huge difference cooling your C2D vs an i7. (time for ln2 or a TEC, don't you think?)
Edit: If your going for 4.0-4.2 GHz, then the h50 should be fine as long as its in push/pull config.

ok, pick me an evga motherboard tiger direct has i was looking at the P55
but if you have a better idea let me know lol


----------



## Frankie007

ok conected pump directly to power running test now seems to max out at 66 now idle around 50


----------



## adebisi

I think my 5870 is pushing out it's hot air and the H50 is sucking back in again!







Should I try and mount elsewere or have the p/p fans blow out?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *adebisi* 
I think my 5870 is pushing out it's hot air and the H50 is sucking back in again!







Should I try and mount elsewere or have the p/p fans blow out?

If you have room, you can mount the rad in the front 5.25 bay as either exhaust or intake (your call).

OR

Leave it where it is and have it exhaust.

OR

ghetto up a barrier that sits above your GPU exhaust port forcing the air out and down rather than out and up.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
ok, pick me an evga motherboard tiger direct has i was looking at the P55
but if you have a better idea let me know lol

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...734&CatId=4720
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...972&CatId=4728
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...179&CatId=4331

I know the third is triple channel but how can you beat the price? You can still run the three sticks dual channel on your board. high speed DDR3 1800 @ cas 8.


----------



## d33r

hello...was wondering if the corsair h50 is similar,better,or as good as,, this swifttec cpu water cooler? is there a difference?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...734&CatId=4720
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...972&CatId=4728
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...179&CatId=4331

I know the third is triple channel but how can you beat the price? You can still run the three sticks dual channel on your board. high speed DDR3 1800 @ cas 8.

i would get the FTW, but i need a pci slot for my wireless N Extreme card
i'm gonna get the SLI model and DDR3 1600 and the core I5 750 >.>
gotta budget a bit, considering i'm looking around for a proper waterblock for my GTS 250... cause 67-70C folding is not acceptable....at least not to my standards...and the stock cooler is loud as hell...so i may run just a small 120mm rad loop for my GTS 250 if i can find a suitable block... no luck so far... only being able to do that of course, with the money i save getting the I5 750 and the DDR3 1600







so i'm thinking smart, but fast... cause the I5 should eat my C2D alive even at its stock clock lol and the I7 is 100 dollars more to say "I7" on the box and have an extra 200 mhz stock clock speed? i say intel should stop charging for names xD

P.S : yes i know theres more than a name and a bit of clock speed to it, but i dont care,i'm one girl who is NOT hard to please... i've had the C2D since shortly after they came out, whereas the average guy here has been thru 3 cpus since then


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *d33r* 
hello...was wondering if the corsair h50 is similar,better,or as good as,, this swifttec cpu water cooler? is there a difference?

Have a look here

Ive not come across this kit before, nor have I used it.

I would suggest it basically the same theory, same setup - pump and stock fan may vary in speed... should be on a par with the H50.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *d33r*


hello...was wondering if the corsair h50 is similar,better,or as good as,, this swifttec cpu water cooler? is there a difference?











Advantage looks like its not completly "closed" loop which would allow for easy modification, and swiftech makes one of the best if not THE best CPU cooler on the market. They also have a 240 kit for only $100 more then the H50... the cost would be the large factor. But looks like it could be used in more configurations and easy to mod.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Frankie007*


ok conected pump directly to power running test now seems to max out at 66 now idle around 50


Load was 81Âºc before right? If so we have improvement here. What clocks are you running?


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dude120*


The i5 750 is a good choice, and performs on par with the i7 most of the time in most games, and it should save you some $$$. However, its not as good for things like multitasking and video encoding. I'm not sure how good it is for overclocking though. Most i7's are guaranteed to hit 4.2 Ghz + as long as they are D0 stepping (if you do go i7). For a mobo, EVGA, ASUS, and Gigabyte and MSI are the brands you want to stick to. (I can recommend a specific board based on whether you go for a processor using the 1156 socket(i7, i5) or 1366 (i7). On ram, based on your preference almost anything G-Skill, Corsair, or Patriot would be brands I would stick to, however if your dead set on getting OCZ ram, they are a pretty good brand as well. Also how are you planning on pushing an i7 to the max using an h50? They cool well, but there will be a huge difference cooling your C2D vs an i7. (time for ln2 or a TEC, don't you think?)
Edit: If your going for 4.0-4.2 GHz, then the h50 should be fine as long as its in push/pull config.


Dude the i5, once overclocked is great for encoding, i'm a freelance advertiser and use AfterEffects and PremPro every day and it makes light work of my files, Its a perfect companion to the Adobe Suite.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast*


With the h50 the i5 750 can go to 4.2ghz too. I got mine to 4ghz right now and on load my temps are around 65*


65-70 is a good range for the i5 @ 4Ghz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


What are you testing with? IBT or Prime95?

We tend to push Intel Burn Test (20 Runs on Maximum) to ensure stability. It puts such a higher load on CPU's compared to Prime95, that you can pretty much bank on it being stable after 20runs of IBT, as opposed to hours and hours of Prime95, in which a lot of people still get instability after hours of testing.

If you're hitting 65c in IBT @ 4GHz, yeah hit 4.2GHz and see what its at.

Stress Testing is putting a load that your CPU will most likely never hit for an extended period of time.


True, IBT after 20 times my temps settle round 63c but encoding never above 50 and thats some intensive work

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast*


Yes the 65* i got was from IBT. But, i only ran 15 runs.


15-20 is good in my opinion, if it can get past 10 then that a good indication.

(just got my two delta PFB1212UHE - 250cfm fans!!) - eat your face h-50

will post temps later when i get home!


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Extremely Fast

Reviewer: eminded on Apr 07, 2010
Customer Rating: 5.0
Value 5.0
Features 5.0
Quality 5.0
Performance 5.0

Bought one of these with a Gygabyte p55a-ud4p, At 4ghz instantly with my Corsair h50 Cooler, Stays 30-35 c idle and 60-65c load with prime 95.. This chip is a Must have. All in all VERY good 
Processor.


another happy H50 user XD read the quote this is directly copy pasted from tiger direct's website

oh and off topic would this air cooler do the trick for my gts 250?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/99...l?tl=g40c21s66


----------



## gus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i would get the FTW, but i need a pci slot for my wireless N Extreme card
i'm gonna get the SLI model and DDR3 1600 and the core I5 750 >.>
gotta budget a bit, considering i'm looking around for a proper waterblock for my GTS 250... cause 67-70C folding is not acceptable....at least not to my standards...and the stock cooler is loud as hell...so i may run just a small 120mm rad loop for my GTS 250 if i can find a suitable block... no luck so far... only being able to do that of course, with the money i save getting the I5 750 and the DDR3 1600







so i'm thinking smart, but fast... cause the I5 should eat my C2D alive even at its stock clock lol and the I7 is 100 dollars more to say "I7" on the box and have an extra 200 mhz stock clock speed? i say intel should stop charging for names xD

P.S : yes i know theres more than a name and a bit of clock speed to it, but i dont care,i'm one girl who is NOT hard to please... i've had the C2D since shortly after they came out, whereas the average guy here has been thru 3 cpus since then










http://www.frozencpu.com/products/75...tl=g30c311s794
as we all know the gts250 is a restamped 9800gtx


----------



## PCSarge

i made a nice temporary exhaust fan mod to my side panel right beside my GTS 250 i made a basic "wind tunnel" with 2 shrouds and a fan, it dropped temps from 70-71 on folding to 64-65C so its an improvement for now, this GTS 250 stock cooler blows (literally) >.> all i did was sandwich a fan with a shroud on either side, here are my "5 minute fun" proof pics, all using fan and drywall screws yay?







i know the fan is a crappy brand...that youve probably never heard of lol

P.S it is 2100 rpms so idc


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i would get the FTW, but i need a pci slot for my wireless N Extreme card
i'm gonna get the SLI model and DDR3 1600 and the core I5 750 >.>
gotta budget a bit, considering i'm looking around for a proper waterblock for my GTS 250... cause 67-70C folding is not acceptable....at least not to my standards...and the stock cooler is loud as hell...so i may run just a small 120mm rad loop for my GTS 250 if i can find a suitable block... no luck so far... only being able to do that of course, with the money i save getting the I5 750 and the DDR3 1600







so i'm thinking smart, but fast... cause the I5 should eat my C2D alive even at its stock clock lol and the I7 is 100 dollars more to say "I7" on the box and have an extra 200 mhz stock clock speed? i say intel should stop charging for names xD

P.S : yes i know theres more than a name and a bit of clock speed to it, but i dont care,i'm one girl who is NOT hard to please... i've had the C2D since shortly after they came out, whereas the average guy here has been thru 3 cpus since then










Make sure you read the reviews for the motherboard. I saw a combo with a i7 on there with some evga sli board that could not overclock at all!! (according to the reviews). Research is key. i7s have a higher clock speed stock and hyperthreading which doubles the amount of threads or virtual cores for the processor.

EDIT: Yeah, I've had the e6550 since it came out and overclocked it to 3 ghz on the stock cooler and left it that way. Then I transitioned to an old AMD 4400+ which wasn't as powerful but still got the job done. After that, one of my main rigs, the 550BE which unlocked to a quad core; I pumped that sucker up to 3.8ghz stable with a core-contact freezer. Now, the i7. 4ghz the first day. I could not even begin to understand the power. 18,000 ppd with an i7 at 4ghz without bigadv units... amazing.


----------



## ChosenLord

Hey, THEY FINALLY ARRIVED

Mother of GOD these mothers are loud, and I mean Hairdryer loud, but i wanted to test em out and here are temps and pics, its at stock atm, but just for effect and all....

Well to really describe how loud these fans are.... no just listen








YouTube- DSCF2385.f4v




These mofos are LOUD!! and lethal



But I'm pretty pleased with the temps.


----------



## whoisron

does anyone know if these make good push / pull fans for the h50?
Noiseblocker NB-Multiframe M12-S3HS 120mmx25mm Ultra Silent Fan - 1800 RPM - 27 dBA
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/84...l?tl=g36c15s60
thanks I only hear people talk about GT's but I really don't like the color and how they look does anyone know if these produce decent static pressure? these are pretty silent comparable to GT's, right?


----------



## Unleash The Beast

I probably reset the h50 about 3 times without applying new TIM, should I put some new stuff on?


----------



## buste2

omg yes!! please wipe and clean it completely and apply some new TIM! It will make a difference!


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *whoisron*


does anyone know if these make good push / pull fans for the h50?
Noiseblocker NB-Multiframe M12-S3HS 120mmx25mm Ultra Silent Fan - 1800 RPM - 27 dBA
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/84...l?tl=g36c15s60
thanks I only hear people talk about GT's but I really don't like the color and how they look does anyone know if these produce decent static pressure? these are pretty silent comparable to GT's, right?


The NB Multiframe's are really elegant fans with a mostly rubber construction, I had the S-Series M12-P (the highest pressure, but they didn't stand up to my H-50 FAN HUNGER but they were VERY quiet.

kept my 4ghz / 1.36 @ 39c idle - push/pull (intake)


----------



## Chicken Patty

@ ChosenLord

What were you temps like before, just wondering how much difference, they look really good now.


----------



## richie_2010

well today i turned round my fans on my h50 to intake and my idle went up 5 and so did my load so that didnt help, even with the top 200mm fan. i am now goin buy 2 Noctua NF-P12 and some new mx3 paste and that should sort my lil prob out.
do you guys think these be good fans.
ps: will be putting my antec fan on side door when changing them


----------



## cjc75

So it looks like I might be a part of this particular club soon...

I just received my H50 from Newegg today!

With it, came my new Phenom II x4 955BE/C3; and my new Cooler Master Storm Scout case. Also picked up an Open Boxed, Asus M4A89GTD PRO/USB3, also from Newegg which I got today...

So, firstly presuming I have no problems with that Open Box Mobo and get my Build finished this weekend.... then I plan to do some overclocking on this chip with the H50.

I'll likely mount the H50 on the back of my case, likely as an Out-take rather then an intake; and I am curious...

Without having to read through all the 650+ pages of this thread, lol, any suggestions on what I can do to improve my overclocking potential with this thing? Frankly, I'm kinda intrigued with the possibility of at the least pushing 3.9ghz, or 4.0ghz if possible... but still maintaining reasonable temps while gaming (Crysis, BF:BC2, Cod:MW,etc); preferably not going over that 55c mark as I tend to get uncomfortable when my other Phenom II chip pushes that high...

I'll be at MicroCenter, and probably Frys, over this coming weekend, and can probably pick up a pair of Fans at either place for a Push/Pull configuration, depending on what they both have In stock, so any suggestions?


----------



## Volkswagen

ChosenLord- wow that is loud







It might help if you move the case away from the wall


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


Make sure you read the reviews for the motherboard. I saw a combo with a i7 on there with some evga sli board that could not overclock at all!! (according to the reviews). Research is key. i7s have a higher clock speed stock and hyperthreading which doubles the amount of threads or virtual cores for the processor.

EDIT: Yeah, I've had the e6550 since it came out and overclocked it to 3 ghz on the stock cooler and left it that way. Then I transitioned to an old AMD 4400+ which wasn't as powerful but still got the job done. After that, one of my main rigs, the 550BE which unlocked to a quad core; I pumped that sucker up to 3.8ghz stable with a core-contact freezer. Now, the i7. 4ghz the first day. I could not even begin to understand the power. 18,000 ppd with an i7 at 4ghz without bigadv units... amazing.


i wont be buying the I7, i'm buying the I5 750, because i intend to do some other upgrades that will help my graphics heat problem, as you see on the previous page, i did make myself a wind tunnel, which dropped its folding temps 5-7C depending on the WU

if you get lost looking for it heres the link :http://www.overclock.net/8996553-post6670.html


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
@ ChosenLord

What were you temps like before, just wondering how much difference, they look really good now.

well before i had ultrakaze and before that NB's before that Apache Blacks.

So they've dropped (in reverse fan order) 40c / 39c / 33c / 25c

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volkswagen* 
ChosenLord- wow that is loud







It might help if you move the case away from the wall









Yeah i ran them through my Nesteq 8 channel fan controller and it burned every channel i put in on, so its either full power or nothing, not even the mobo can help it draws so much power.

so i've sacrificed one... will put the second on once i get a good high Watt channel fan controller, speaking of which does anyone know any good ones, only needs to be 2 channels, dedicated to the Deltas?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChosenLord* 
well before i had ultrakaze and before that NB's before that Apache Blacks.

So they've dropped (in reverse fan order) 40c / 39c / 33c / 25c

Yeah i ran them through my Nesteq 8 channel fan controller and it burned every channel i put in on, so its either full power or nothing, not even the mobo can help it draws so much power.

so i've sacrificed one... will put the second on once i get a good high Watt channel fan controller, speaking of which does anyone know any good ones, only needs to be 2 channels, dedicated to the Deltas?

lamptron has a high wattage controller that will take up to 40w i believe, so check what the fans are, if their below 40w, go looking for a lamptron


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


well before i had ultrakaze and before that NB's before that Apache Blacks.

So they've dropped (in reverse fan order) 40c / 39c / 33c / 25c


Dem some nice temps ChosenLord.









Those Deltas are punishers on controllers. Hope you can find something to tame em with. I concur with PCSarge, Lamptrons probably your best bet.

Quote:



http://www.lamptron.com/products/view/Hummer:_5-port


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


lamptron has a high wattage controller that will take up to 40w i believe, so check what the fans are, if their below 40w, go looking for a lamptron


Cheers man, looking at the spec sheet the input power for these deltas are 48W - I hate the smell of burning plastic!

I'm going to have to find an industrial fan controller for my *inDUST*rial fans!!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Dem some nice temps ChosenLord.









Those Deltas are punishers on controllers. Hope you can find something to tame em with. I concur with PCSarge, Lamptrons probably your best bet.


Cheers guys, gonna OC back to 4 and see what i can do bout dem temps, i just hope my hearing doesn't suffer.

Ambient is around 24c
one of these deltas are great, running stock *i5-750 @ 20c*
two of these deltas are even better (but loud) *i5-750 @ 16c*


----------



## Defiler

Added myself to the list. Have the H50 in hand but the new system won't be finished till The end of April. I'll post details then.

BTW, why are there so many tabs in the spreadsheet?


----------



## whoisron

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


well before i had ultrakaze and before that NB's before that Apache Blacks.

So they've dropped (in reverse fan order) 40c / 39c / 33c / 25c

Yeah i ran them through my Nesteq 8 channel fan controller and it burned every channel i put in on, so its either full power or nothing, not even the mobo can help it draws so much power.

so i've sacrificed one... will put the second on once i get a good high Watt channel fan controller, speaking of which does anyone know any good ones, only needs to be 2 channels, dedicated to the Deltas?


hrm i don't get it so your saying the nb's yielded you 39c or 33c?


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *whoisron*


hrm i don't get it so your saying the nb's yielded you 39c or 33c?


around 37-39c idle and 75-80 IBT Load!

still pretty good, but i'm pushing my i5-hard and they cant keep up,

UltraKaze 3k are the way to go, not too noisey and good performance. I'm switching back tonight, the deltas are just WAY too loud, i'll wait till i get my LAMPTRON controller its the only thing that's gonna handle 48W per fan!


----------



## brettjv

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChosenLord* 

These mofos are LOUD!! and lethal




Puff-Puff-Give, man, you ****in' up the rotation!


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *brettjv*


Puff-Puff-Give, man, you ****in' up the rotation!


I live in The Netherlands..... what can I say... its legal here!


----------



## gus

using 2 sythe ultra kaze push pull exausting rear case rad 
cpu at 3.85 ghz


----------



## jjj112

6-32-1x1/4 @ homedepot for 19cent each


----------



## Jocelyn84

I probably shouldn't mess with a good thing considering how wonderful my temps are with GT AP-15's, but I just ordered two Gelid Wing 12 PL's. Not that the GT's are loud, but my new FT02 has turned me into a bit of a silent running system addict (lol), and I was just wondering if anyone had any experience with these Gelid PWM fans.

http://www.gelidsolutions.com/produc...=1&cid=2&id=50
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27555.


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


Dude the i5, once overclocked is great for encoding, i'm a freelance advertiser and use AfterEffects and PremPro every day and it makes light work of my files, Its a perfect companion to the Adobe Suite.


I have no doubt the i5 is good at video encoding but the i7's have the advantage of already being a quad core and the addition of hyperthreading, which should result in significant performance boosts. Regardless, both are great processor choices.


----------



## rck1984

Guys,

I am thinking of buying a H50 for quite some time now, following this forum for some weeks.
I am using a Core i5 750 and want to OC it to the magic 4.0Ghz, is the Corsair H50 capable of running my i5 750 cool enough on 4.0Ghz? or should i go for something else? I can spend around ~70€.

Also, what fans should i buy together with it? i want my case to be Black/White if possible, is there any good Black/white fans that can do the job (in push, pull or push/pull) or do i have to paint them?

Any advice is welcome to convince me, so i can come back from the store with a h50


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rck1984*


Guys,

I am thinking of buying a H50 for quite some time now, following this forum for some weeks.
I am using a Core i5 750 and want to OC it to the magic 4.0Ghz, is the Corsair H50 capable of running my i5 750 cool enough on 4.0Ghz? or should i go for something else? I can spend around ~70â‚¬.

Also, what fans should i buy together with it? i want my case to be Black/White if possible, is there any good Black/white fans that can do the job (in push, pull or push/pull) or do i have to paint them?

Any advice is welcome to convince me, so i can come back from the store with a h50










Mate, welcome, I'd read from page 100, but to save you the trouble....

The h-50 is good at keeping decent temps on an overclocked i5-750...PROVIDED that you use good fans, now.

I have been at the forefront of this 'what fan issue and have spend well over 100euro's on decent fans in the last month!

Its turns out its personal choice.

are you looking for ULTRA low temp and care not about colour or noise? 
This or this are your answers
(high CFM (airflow) and VERY VERY good static pressure) - (also if you're going to use push/pull putting 25mm shrouds on either side will make a huge difference (if you think 3-6c is huge))

are you looking for DECENT low temps and don't want too much noise?
these or these or these will do.

and you asked about b/w fans these - also don't look too bad on the cooling either.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dude120*


the i7's have the advantage of already being a quad core


sorry is't i5-750 is quad?


----------



## Robit

I installed the H50 & like it, but (you knew there would be a BUT in here) The temps were a bit hi @ 3.7Ghz (idel 38c-44c,load 53c-58c, amb-23c-26c)..... Took the two Silverstones (110cfm max) off the rad (push-pull exhaust) & put my Sycthe 133cfm speed ajustable on the outside of my case pulling air through the rad out. I'm still testing, but it looks good so far. I'll keep all advised..... Thanks


----------



## cloudymode

Hi guys,

I have an Antec 1200 case with this motherboard ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131594 )

It seems like the H50 radiator is taking up one of my pci express 2.0 slots. I have a wireless adapter card an a x-fi titanium soundcard that I would like to keep. If I upgrade to a newer video card, it will most likely take up a few slots.

Any suggestions on how I can make this radiator work without taking up a slot?


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cloudymode*


Hi guys,

I have an Antec 1200 case with this motherboard ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131594 )

It seems like the H50 radiator is taking up one of my pci express 2.0 slots. I have a wireless adapter card an a x-fi titanium soundcard that I would like to keep. If I upgrade to a newer video card, it will most likely take up a few slots.

Any suggestions on how I can make this radiator work without taking up a slot?


How is it taking up board slots? every thing too close together?

I can say, with the new large cooling solutions, Tri Ram options and Large! Vid cards...
Days of small cases are on the way out. I know I my case has lots of room on one side and tight in the back corner still.


----------



## Kand

Well. I wasnt going to get one until next month but high ambient temps reaching up to 36c indoors prompted me to acquire a Corsair H50. My Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro which has served me for so long started failing on me, giving me BSOD's playing BC2 whenever I have the air-conditioning off (even at night). Anyways picture-set GO!

Well, this was my first build with a REAL gaming case. I would have tidied up better, but the space and where the brilliant Asus engineers installed the 24pin ATX power couplings just made that impossible to do at the time.










It was a mess. A dusty mess. I cleaned it out and installed the H50 with its stock fan for a test run.










It worked wonders. I no longer got random crashes whenever I play BC2 with my air-conditioning off! But I wanted more. I had more!










Yes. That IS a San Ace 109P 120x120x38mm fan shoddily Mac-Gyvered with zipties on my H50. It works wonders with just that one fan. From 55-60c load, it dropped the temps to 45-50c testing on a 25c ambient!

I know I know. The cable management could use a little bit more work, but that's tough without extension cables, modding the case and etc.

Anyways. I'm contented with it. I dont know how much further I can push my OC yet on this new cooler, but I will try that once I tidy up the cables more!

I was going to go for a push/pull configuration. Exhaust on the H50, but it seems that I do not have enough space between the Radiator and pump to do so. I'll do that on my next build. This Antec 300's just too outdated already.









http://pbckt.com/sd.dhJf All pics.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kand* 
Well. I wasnt going to get one until next month but high ambient temps reaching up to 36c indoors prompted me to acquire a Corsair H50. My Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro which has served me for so long started failing on me, giving me BSOD's playing BC2 whenever I have the air-conditioning off (even at night). Anyways picture-set GO!

Well, this was my first build with a REAL gaming case. I would have tidied up better, but the space and where the brilliant Asus engineers installed the 24pin ATX power couplings just made that impossible to do at the time.

It was a mess. A dusty mess. I cleaned it out and installed the H50 with its stock fan for a test run.

It worked wonders. I no longer got random crashes whenever I play BC2 with my air-conditioning off! But I wanted more. I had more!

Yes. That IS a San Ace 109P 120x120x38mm fan shoddily Mac-Gyvered with zipties on my H50. It works wonders with just that one fan. From 55-60c load, it dropped the temps to 45-50c testing on a 25c ambient!

I know I know. The cable management could use a little bit more work, but that's tough without extension cables, modding the case and etc.

Anyways. I'm contented with it. I dont know how much further I can push my OC yet on this new cooler, but I will try that once I tidy up the cables more!

I was going to go for a push/pull configuration. Exhaust on the H50, but it seems that I do not have enough space between the Radiator and pump to do so. I'll do that on my next build. This Antec 300's just too outdated already.









http://pbckt.com/sd.dhJf All pics.

get some long screws from home depot! : D

EDIT: Snipped


----------



## ZaG

Hello all sorry to bother you guys im heading over to microcenter tomorrow to pick this up and i want to know from you H50 experts will this solution be able to tame an i7 920 Co/C1 @ 4.0ghz? my scythe definitely cant thus that's why i m upgrading and i do'nt have the money for an all out water cooling kit. Oh by the VCore will probably be at 1.4 or so! please give me advice it is much appreciated. All components will be in a Lancool K-62

ps. one last thing watching this video made me nervous as hell!








YouTube- Corsair Hydro Series H50 CPU Cooler - Performance Overview (Part 2)


----------



## Kand

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
get some long screws from home depot! : D

EDIT: Snipped

That's the thing! I've been visiting every home depot near me! They have nothing! Not even a can of compressed air! (they dont even know what that is..) I'll try the local RC shop that's awesome for importing stuff from Japan tomorrow. They should have SOMETHING useful!


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kand* 
That's the thing! I've been visiting every home depot near me! They have nothing! Not even a can of compressed air! I'll try the local RC shop that's awesome for importing stuff from Japan tomorrow. They should have SOMETHING useful!

Take one of the screws with you. That should make it easier for them to find. My local Ace Hardware store found it lickity split. Any hardware store that is decently sized should have some for you. I hope this helps : D

Also, even if it is too long, you can measure and dremmel, add nuts and/or washers, or cut some of it off, it just can't be too short.


----------



## Kand

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Take one of the screws with you. That should make it easier for them to find. My local Ace Hardware store found it lickity split. Any hardware store that is decently sized should have some for you. I hope this helps : D

Also, even if it is too long, you can measure and dremmel, add nuts and/or washers, or cut some of it off, it just can't be too short.

This is why I'm on zipties. And they're holding up well! The screws will fit better for aesthetics sake but.. I want those plastic screws posted up earlier in the thread!


----------



## ZaG

Any advice?


----------



## Kand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ZaG*


Hello all sorry to bother you guys im heading over to microcenter tomorrow to pick this up and i want to know from you H50 experts will this solution be able to tame an i7 920 Co/C1 @ 4.0ghz? my scythe definitely cant thus that's why i m upgrading and i do'nt have the money for an all out water cooling kit. Oh by the VCore will probably be at 1.4 or so! please give me advice it is much appreciated. All components will be in a Lancool K-62

ps. one last thing watching this video made me nervous as hell!







http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...0-updated.html

This is ONE thing your youtube vid didnt tackle. He didnt use a better set of fans on his H50. Just that dinky Akasa that was included in the box.









There's plenty of advice in the first page of this thread. I suggest you move on there.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/...ge,2401-4.html

Edited: More links.

One more thing. What the hell cable management he got on his PC. It's practically suffocating. <__>


----------



## cloudymode

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killer01ws6*


How is it taking up board slots? every thing too close together?

I can say, with the new large cooling solutions, Tri Ram options and Large! Vid cards...
Days of small cases are on the way out. I know I my case has lots of room on one side and tight in the back corner still.


Well, with the H50 on the motherboard, it automatically prevents me from using the pcie 2.0 slot. I'm more concerned because I was hoping to run sli sometime in the near future. Any suggestions on how I can rearrange the H50, if that is even possible?

This is a pretty large case (antec 1200) and the motherboard seems to be pretty highquality as well.


----------



## Kand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cloudymode*


Well, with the H50 on the motherboard, it automatically prevents me from using the pcie 2.0 slot. I'm more concerned because I was hoping to run sli sometime in the near future. Any suggestions on how I can rearrange the H50, if that is even possible?

This is a pretty large case (antec 1200) and the motherboard seems to be pretty highquality as well.


If it's an Antec 1200, then you have two 120mm fan slots at the back of the case. The answer's simple. Move the Rad up to the higher slot. <__<


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kand*


If it's an Antec 1200, then you have two 120mm fan slots at the back of the case. The answer's simple. Move the Rad up to the higher slot. <__<


I don't think the rad fits vertically or horizontally on the 1200's upper 120mm.


----------



## Kand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84*


I don't think the rad fits vertically or horizontally on the 1200's upper 120mm.


Mite explaining how it wouldnt fit?

Edit. Pictures removed. Answered that question myself! Relevant thread found.









http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...1200-case.html

Also.. Tight squeeze!


----------



## ryman546

the first pictures in this thread have sold me on a h50. Thanks. Now i can put a fans on my memory.


----------



## cjc75

I'm curious if a pair of Cooler Master R4's; in a push/pull, with a 50mm shroud... would give me much improvement on Temps compared to the stock corsair fan that comes with the H50?

Honestly I'd much rather have a pair of Scythe Gentle Typhoons but I can't get those right now; 1: out of my budget and 2 not available locally... However, I can easily pick up a pair of R4's cheap from a local shop; and use a pair of old and dying Thermaltake 120's that I have laying around, to make a 50mm shroud...

Lastly, if I went with the R4's now, and later on down the road changed them to a pair of GT's when I can afford them; then how much difference would I see?

If it makes any difference, this will be going into a Storm Scout case, likely being used in an Exhaust configuration set up as follows...

fan/case/rad/shroud/fan


----------



## rck1984

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


Mate, welcome, I'd read from page 100, but to save you the trouble....

The h-50 is good at keeping decent temps on an overclocked i5-750...PROVIDED that you use good fans, now.

I have been at the forefront of this 'what fan issue and have spend well over 100euro's on decent fans in the last month!

Its turns out its personal choice.

are you looking for ULTRA low temp and care not about colour or noise? 
This or this are your answers
(high CFM (airflow) and VERY VERY good static pressure) - (also if you're going to use push/pull putting 25mm shrouds on either side will make a huge difference (if you think 3-6c is huge))

are you looking for DECENT low temps and don't want too much noise?
these or these or these will do.

and you asked about b/w fans these - also don't look too bad on the cooling either.

sorry is't i5-750 is quad?


Thanks for your constructive answer ChosenLord









What temps are you getting on your i5 750?

Also id like to be a bit in the middle, i mean... it shouldnt be the sound of an airplane next to me, but it doesnt have to be dead quiet neither. Something in between should be fine.. Best possible cooling vs the least sound. I have heared Gentle Typhoon's are really good, but its a pain getting them here..

I will take a closer look to those fans you mentioned, and paint them black/white.

+Rep your way


----------



## candy_van

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rck1984*


Thanks for your constructive answer ChosenLord









What temps are you getting on your i5 750?

Also id like to be a bit in the middle, i mean... it shouldnt be the sound of an airplane next to me, but it doesnt have to be dead quiet neither. Something in between should be fine.. Best possible cooling vs the least sound. I have heared Gentle Typhoon's are really good, but its a pain getting them here..

I will take a closer look to those fans you mentioned, and paint them black/white.

+Rep your way










Very worth looking into the Gentle Typhoons. Only thing better IMO would be a coupld of good 38mm fans + a controller.
Temps for me are great, even with how hot it's been the past couple days (26c ambient), I sit around 36c and full load P95 was 66c (figure ~5c less across the board when it's cooler out).

Also, I don't believe I ever joined up, well...guess I should then


----------



## cloudymode

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kand*


If it's an Antec 1200, then you have two 120mm fan slots at the back of the case. The answer's simple. Move the Rad up to the higher slot. <__<


WOW. I totally didn't even think of that. I feel pretty stupid. Thank you so much lol









+1 rep!


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cjc75*


I'm curious if a pair of Cooler Master R4's; in a push/pull, with a 50mm shroud... would give me much improvement on Temps compared to the stock corsair fan that comes with the H50?

Honestly I'd much rather have a pair of Scythe Gentle Typhoons but I can't get those right now; 1: out of my budget and 2 not available locally... However, I can easily pick up a pair of R4's cheap from a local shop; and use a pair of old and dying Thermaltake 120's that I have laying around, to make a 50mm shroud...

Lastly, if I went with the R4's now, and later on down the road changed them to a pair of GT's when I can afford them; then how much difference would I see?

If it makes any difference, this will be going into a Storm Scout case, likely being used in an Exhaust configuration set up as follows...

fan/case/rad/shroud/fan


i run R4s on my H50 push pull intake in my 5.25 bays, but it used to be rear push pull exhaust, andi can say, they make a small amount of noise (mostly from the air moving) but they do a great job at 3.04 static pressure so if you can live with a small amount of noise go for it, if you search back a few pages youll find my pics of all the R4s i have in my case, 10 in total, and the noise doesnt sound much worse than a small wind tunnel, mindd you mine are all molex on full speed, because my stupid NZXT Sentry-2 fan controller makes them make ******ed clicking noises


----------



## dude120

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChosenLord* 

sorry is't i5-750 is quad?

Never said it wasn't.
Like I said before, I acknowledged both are good processors, but in almost every situation the i7 will out perform the i5 when it comes to workstation tasks like encoding. In gaming they are just about even, with the i5 750 outperforming the i7 in many cases. Both processor are quad cores, however one has hyperthreading and the other doesn't. This doesn't translate to 8 core's worth performance but with out a doubt more than your standard quad core. Again they both perform well, but one is inherently better. The performance comes at a cost, which is about 80-90 bucks more.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

3dGameMan aka Rodney Reynolds just posted a video of the new CoolIT eco, you know from CES?

On an i7 920 pushed to 4ghz, under load, it only went to 61C!! What the heck?! Does the eco win against an H50?


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kand*


That's the thing! I've been visiting every home depot near me! They have nothing! Not even a can of compressed air! (they dont even know what that is..) I'll try the local RC shop that's awesome for importing stuff from Japan tomorrow. They should have SOMETHING useful!


Look for 3inch toggle bolts.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cjc75*


I'm curious if a pair of Cooler Master R4's; in a push/pull, with a 50mm shroud... would give me much improvement on Temps compared to the stock corsair fan that comes with the H50?

Honestly I'd much rather have a pair of Scythe Gentle Typhoons but I can't get those right now; 1: out of my budget and 2 not available locally... However, I can easily pick up a pair of R4's cheap from a local shop; and use a pair of old and dying Thermaltake 120's that I have laying around, to make a 50mm shroud...

Lastly, if I went with the R4's now, and later on down the road changed them to a pair of GT's when I can afford them; then how much difference would I see?

If it makes any difference, this will be going into a Storm Scout case, likely being used in an Exhaust configuration set up as follows...

fan/case/rad/shroud/fan


R4s will work just fine. Performance differences are small.


----------



## rck1984

I was checking my local hardware store and came across:

http://www.xigmatek.com/product/accessory-xsff1251.php

Now i am quite new to cooling and fans or anything that has to do with it, but its specs look pretty decent for a push/pull, with decent to good cooling on a acceptable noise level?


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rck1984*


I was checking my local hardware store and came across:

http://www.xigmatek.com/product/accessory-xsff1251.php

Now i am quite new to cooling and fans or anything that has to do with it, but its specs look pretty decent for a push/pull, with decent to good cooling on a acceptable noise level?


I would say look up some Yate Loon fans or San Ace or Deltas if you are into extreme. You could also get Panaflos (these have very high static pressure since it is so thick a fan).


----------



## rck1984

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


I would say look up some Yate Loon fans or San Ace or Deltas if you are into extreme. You could also get Panaflos (these have very high static pressure since it is so thick a fan).


Well, i am not really into extreme tbh, id like to run my i5 750 on 4.0Ghz, by (probably) using the H50 with a push/pull.

Id like something in between... best possible performance with an acceptable noise level. Gentle Typhoon's were suggested, but its hard to get for me at the moment.

Those Yate loon's and Delta's make a terrible noise, dont they? I dont mind some noise, but dont wanna get the feeling of sitting in a B-747..


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ZaG*


Hello all sorry to bother you guys im heading over to microcenter tomorrow to pick this up and i want to know from you H50 experts will this solution be able to tame an i7 920 Co/C1 @ 4.0ghz? my scythe definitely cant thus that's why i m upgrading and i do'nt have the money for an all out water cooling kit. Oh by the VCore will probably be at 1.4 or so! please give me advice it is much appreciated. All components will be in a Lancool K-62

ps. one last thing watching this video made me nervous as hell!

YouTube- Corsair Hydro Series H50 CPU Cooler - Performance Overview (Part 2)


Don't worry ZAG that review was crap. I had the same worries when I started scanning the web. This guy either had a bad pump or really crappy airflow or both. His results are definetly not accurate!


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rck1984* 
Well, i am not really into extreme tbh, id like to run my i5 750 on 4.0Ghz, by (probably) using the H50 with a push/pull.

Id like something in between... best possible performance with an acceptable noise level. Gentle Typhoon's were suggested, but its hard to get for me at the moment.

Those Yate loon's and Delta's make a terrible noise, dont they? I dont mind some noise, but dont wanna get the feeling of sitting in a B-747..

Deltas do but Yate Loons don't from what I have heard. look at the dba ratings. 20-30 is acceptable 40 is pushing it 45 is too loudddd.


----------



## Kand

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Deltas do but Yate Loons don't from what I have heard. look at the dba ratings. 20-30 is acceptable 40 is pushing it 45 is too loudddd.

Oh right. San Aces are expensive where you guys are! We get these dirt cheap here! XD

Xigmateks are good fans. They actually perform better than Scythes for less the noise.


----------



## scottath

right - i can finally join this club now ive got my H50









Mounted in my ITX Build cooling my i7 860


----------



## gus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottath*


right - i can finally join this club now ive got my H50









Mounted in my ITX Build cooling my i7 860












wow. your psu is only a tad smaller than your case.. thats cool that you mounted your h50 into that small area


----------



## scottath

yea - didnt trust the stock PSU, so i modded in one i do trust.

the tubing is so ridid - its hard to get it there.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottath*


yea - didnt trust the stock PSU, so i modded in one i do trust.

the tubing is so ridid - its hard to get it there.


The stock PSU is great, but for a core i7 860 / 5770 or less... I wouldn't run a 5850 on it







(I used it for a good while with the aforementioned config). I've got mine set up temporarily with the stock PSU sitting atop the case and a dark knight installed in the case :3 Going to be replacing it though since i got xfire 5750s for a steal









I had tried the h50 once before and wasn't 100% impressed... I'm considering giving it another shot on my main rig


----------



## scottath

runs MUCH better than stock.

passive on the 860 @ stock did ~65c after 10min prime
prime load with a fan = ~58-60


----------



## Frankie007

help I'm didling at 44c with a push/pull set up and under load I see 68c. How do i know if my h50 is seated properly


----------



## yobrigidey

Just got my H50 in the mail, lookin for some opinions.

I am going to be running it in a HAF 932, cooling an AMD 7750 BE, so not too big of a load, just wanted a quiet cooler.

I have 2 yate loon d12sl-12's. I can:

a) Run the 2 yate loon's as 120mm fans in the case (no fan controller) and run the stock fan on the h50.

b) Run the 2 yate loons as push/pull. From my understanding, the cpu fan speed controller WILL control the YL's (3 wire connector to 4 wire header) but the h50 fan will run at full speed (4 wire connector to 3 wire header)

Which would be the better choice. I don't want to purchase any more fans at this time, could possibly in the future. I need to know the best setup for what I have already. I know I can test it out and find the best result, but I'd prefer to do it right the first time if someone has the experience or knowledge.


----------



## macca_dj

Hello H50 Owners

Just signed the List.

I have not long had the H50 Pump still playing with Orientations and Fans,

H50 Currently setup as Rear exhaust one fan pushing,
Other case fans
120mm intake front HDD,
120mm Top exhaust,
120mm Side intake,

Just trying some thing a little Different at the Moment.

To TIM or not to TIM.

All below are just with IDLE temps

TIM Applied AS5
Temps @ 1.2625 Volts in Bios

Ambient room temp--26c
Bios reading---------41c
With in Windows-----41c Using Everest
All 4 Cores-----------40c

NO TIM Applied
Temps @ 1.36 Volts in Bios (Stock)

Ambient room temp--26c
Bios reading---------42c
With in Windows-----42c Using Everest
All 4 Cores-----------41c

NO TIM Applied
Temps @ 1.2625 Volts in Bios

Ambient room temp--26c
Bios reading----------39c
With in Windows-----38c Using Everest
All 4 Cores------------37c

CPU Fan is H50 Pump
CH 1 Fan is H50 Rad
CH 2 Fan is Front Hdd

NEC Monitor Temps
Sensor 1-----------36c Fan Off
Sensor 2-----------40c Fan Off

Note that My CPU and Pump Have Been Lapped

Attachment 149979
Desktop Model Anastasia Braun

I will Upload some Pics of my Rig when i Gets a Better Camera


----------



## Chicken Patty

@ scottath

That's insanely tight in there man, got any other shots, interested in seeing more


----------



## scottath

all my pics thus far:

http://s186.photobucket.com/albums/x8/scottath/SG05/


----------



## macca_dj

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scottath* 
all my pics thus far:

http://s186.photobucket.com/albums/x8/scottath/SG05/

Looking Good there,

How long has it taken you so far ?


----------



## yobrigidey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *yobrigidey* 
Just got my H50 in the mail, lookin for some opinions.

I am going to be running it in a HAF 932, cooling an AMD 7750 BE, so not too big of a load, just wanted a quiet cooler.

I have 2 yate loon d12sl-12's. I can:

a) Run the 2 yate loon's as 120mm fans in the case (no fan controller) and run the stock fan on the h50.

b) Run the 2 yate loons as push/pull. From my understanding, the cpu fan speed controller WILL control the YL's (3 wire connector to 4 wire header) but the h50 fan will run at full speed (4 wire connector to 3 wire header)

Which would be the better choice. I don't want to purchase any more fans at this time, could possibly in the future. I need to know the best setup for what I have already. I know I can test it out and find the best result, but I'd prefer to do it right the first time if someone has the experience or knowledge.

Any help, this thing's going in my system in a few hours?


----------



## scottath

not heaps long - all the time has been waiting for the mobo to turn up :/


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scottath* 
all my pics thus far:

http://s186.photobucket.com/albums/x8/scottath/SG05/

Truly amazing considering the space man, great job !


----------



## scottath

i have some more fun to do i think yet.

some 2.5" drive to go in (when i get them/if i can afford to) and maybe a SSD.
also thinking about doing some stuff with the wiring. single loom maybe.

also - will be getting some little heatsinks for the mofets and a 25mm shroud.....

itx case with a H50 with a 120*38mm fan and a 25mm shroud - WIN


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottath*


i have some more fun to do i think yet.

some 2.5" drive to go in (when i get them/if i can afford to) and maybe a SSD.
also thinking about doing some stuff with the wiring. single loom maybe.

also - will be getting some little heatsinks for the mofets and a 25mm shroud.....

itx case with a H50 with a 120*38mm fan and a 25mm shroud - WIN


That should be interesting, can't wait to see the future updates


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *yobrigidey* 
Just got my H50 in the mail, lookin for some opinions.

I am going to be running it in a HAF 932, cooling an AMD 7750 BE, so not too big of a load, just wanted a quiet cooler.

I have 2 yate loon d12sl-12's. I can:

a) Run the 2 yate loon's as 120mm fans in the case (no fan controller) and run the stock fan on the h50.

b) Run the 2 yate loons as push/pull. From my understanding, the cpu fan speed controller WILL control the YL's (3 wire connector to 4 wire header) but the h50 fan will run at full speed (4 wire connector to 3 wire header)

Which would be the better choice. I don't want to purchase any more fans at this time, could possibly in the future. I need to know the best setup for what I have already. I know I can test it out and find the best result, but I'd prefer to do it right the first time if someone has the experience or knowledge.

I think those YLs are too slow to perform well on the H50. I would try the H50 fan pushing connected to the cpu header (4pin) so it can change in speed as the cpu temp varies and 1 YL pulling at full speed. Pump to molex with adapter if you have one. Other YL somewhere where it can feed cool air to the rad area. Good luck.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

D: 91C max 4.2ghz with the H50. Friggen hot!!


----------



## yobrigidey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


I think those YLs are too slow to perform well on the H50. I would try the H50 fan pushing connected to the cpu header (4pin) so it can change in speed as the cpu temp varies and 1 YL pulling at full speed. Pump to molex with adapter if you have one. Other YL somewhere where it can feed cool air to the rad area. Good luck.


Thanks, Yeah I ordered the yates as a silent case fan, then got to thinking.

I thought about doing this, didn't know if it would cause problems with two different cfm fans. I guess I don't care if I damage one of the motors in either fan, because the yates are cheap and it'll give me an excuse to get some gentle typhoons.

Thanks, i think I'll go with that idea and see how it works out.


----------



## Fantomau

So yates arent too good for the H50? Damn and I just got some medium YLs


----------



## ImmortalKenny

So I searched the thread and couldn't find an answer...

What's the difference between the CWCH50 and the CWCH50-1?

EDIT: Haha, nevermind. I was mispelling the model name.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ImmortalKenny* 
So I searched the thread and couldn't find an answer...

What's the difference between the CWCH50 and the CWCH50-1?

with the " -1 " you *WILL* get the AMD_CPU - bracket's; for this *IS* the availability for the model's out, NOW . . .
... {for the plain "CWCH50's"- first edition's did *NOT* have this bracket, included...}

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## ImmortalKenny

What about the first revision being 100% copper and the H50-1 being a mix of aluminum and copper?


----------



## ryman546

i have 2 scythe kaze 3000rpm. Would those work well with this?


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
i have 2 scythe kaze 3000rpm. Would those work well with this?

Yes.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
i have 2 scythe kaze 3000rpm. Would those work well with this?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Yes.

YES


----------



## Kand

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ImmortalKenny* 
What about the first revision being 100% copper and the H50-1 being a mix of aluminum and copper?

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?p=438130


----------



## ImmortalKenny

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChosenLord* 
YES

Why are you intaking air through the back of the case?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kand* 
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?p=438130

Ok, phew, it was just a rumor/speculation. I just bought a regular H50 with the AMD brackets off of an OCN member, so I thought I'd ask.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ImmortalKenny*


Why are you intaking air through the back of the case?
Ok, phew, it was just a rumor/speculation. I just bought a regular H50 with the AMD brackets off of an OCN member, so I thought I'd ask.










Corsair recommends that. However, I suggest for everybody to try intake and exhaust as I myself had better temps when exhausting. Some have better when intaking though.


----------



## Kand

It depends on what your setup is. Corsair's recommendation is somewhat a cheat due to it pulling COLD air direct from the outside and not your front intake fans. It also diminishes the use for having a filtered air path through your front intakes. Dusty computers anyone? I myself would want to attempt another build with the H50, this time, with a better, more spacious case, having the radiator at the front of the case as an Intake rather than exhaust as I have seen with SOME setups within this thread.









THAT. IMO. Is probably the most efficient way to have your H50.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kand* 
It depends on what your setup is. Corsair's recommendation is somewhat a cheat due to it pulling COLD air direct from the outside and not your front intake fans. It also diminishes the use for having a filtered air path through your front intakes. Dusty computers anyone? I myself would want to attempt another build with the H50, this time, with a better case, having the radiator at the front of the case as an Intake rather than exhaust as I have seen with SOME setups within this thread.









THAT. IMO. Is probably the most efficient way to have your H50.

I agree, but then you will dump the heat from the rad into your case. Either way I think you always sacrifice temps in another area. Unless you have outback as exhaust, but then the air throught the rad is slightly warmer.


----------



## Kand

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
I agree, but then you will dump the heat from the rad into your case. Either way I think you always sacrifice temps in another area. Unless you have outback as exhaust, but then the air throught the rad is slightly warmer.

I'll probably have three fans on intake, four on exhaust. Shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kand* 
I'll probably have three fans on intake, four on exhaust. Shouldn't be a problem.

It's really no big deal, just pointing it out though. I had mine as exhaust and temps were still good everywhere in the PC.


----------



## ryman546

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChosenLord* 
YES



Where did you get the shrouds? Is it necessary?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
Where did you get the shrouds? Is it necessary?

Looks like he got a 120mm fan for each side and just gutted it and used it as shrouds. Shrouding helps, yes.


----------



## Killhouse

Almost 400 members









As you may have noticed I can't keep up with this right now, thanks to all the people continueing to support around here! Epic thread!


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Almost 400 members









As you may have noticed I can't keep up with this right now, thanks to all the people continueing to support around here! Epic thread!


----------



## ZaG

Just got my H50 today i stable @ 4.0ghz on my i7 920 Co stepping at 1.388 volts my temps during prime were 60's to very low 70's whats the best fans for a push pull or are my temps as good as it gets im idling in the 30's and 40's Ht is off and the current set up is just push.


----------



## marl

Where can I get similar screws that come with the H50, but longer and are able to go through a shroud and the fan?

I've searched and end up getting confused with trying to find the right sizes.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marl* 
Where can I get similar screws that come with the H50, but longer and are able to go through a shroud and the fan?

I've searched and end up getting confused with trying to find the right sizes.









The thread is 6/32. Just got to home depot and get them the length you need them.


----------



## Kand

Still no luck with the custom screws! I've visited six hardware stores and always get something either a mite too thick or too thin.

Looks like I'm sticking with my cable ties for longer. :3


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kand* 
Still no luck with the custom screws! I've visited six hardware stores and always get something either a mite too thick or too thin.

Looks like I'm sticking with my cable ties for longer. :3

Where do you live? Maybe I can get you some here locally and ship them to you. Just tell me how long you need them.


----------



## Kand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Where do you live? Maybe I can get you some here locally and ship them to you. Just tell me how long you need them.


Oh. I doubt you're gonna get them to me. I live in Asia. The Philippines! Most of the hardware stores here dont even know what Compressed Air is! I've found one that carries, but it's in a very very prime area. :3


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kand*


Oh. I doubt you're gonna get them to me. I live in Asia. The Philippines! Most of the hardware stores here dont even know what Compressed Air is! I've found one that carries, but it's in a very very prime area. :3


I'll give it a shot. Try locally, maybe another local member has some or something. If you can't get any locally let me know and I'll send you a few of them. Just pay shipping, screws are like $1 or $2, that's on me.


----------



## Kand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


I'll give it a shot. Try locally, maybe another local member has some or something. If you can't get any locally let me know and I'll send you a few of them. Just pay shipping, screws are like $1 or $2, that's on me.


Ha. And shipping's probably worth more than another H50. Unless postage stamps would cover it.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kand*


Ha. And shipping's probably worth more than another H50. Unless postage stamps would cover it.


Well I shipped a HDD to germany and it was $26, screws cannot be more than like $10 to ship. Not sure how much that is over there, but $10 is not a whole lot here in the US.


----------



## Kand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Well I shipped a HDD to germany and it was $26, screws cannot be more than like $10 to ship. Not sure how much that is over there, but $10 is not a whole lot here in the US.


Minimum wage = $10 per day.

That pretty much sums it up.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Almost 400 members









As you may have noticed I can't keep up with this right now, thanks to all the people continueing to support around here! Epic thread!










Ah, we love it


----------



## NovaNab

Hey guys I would Like to know if i could join this club







Heres my corsair H50 pic


----------



## TwwIX

I should be getting mine this week. I just got to order some Ultra Kazes for the push/pull configuration.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kand* 
Minimum wage = $10 per day.

That pretty much sums it up.









Just let me know if you can't find any locally in the next few days I'll see how much it is, if not too expensive I'll send it over there.


----------



## Fifth

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwwIX*


I should be getting mine this week. I just got to order some Ultra Kazes for the push/pull configuration.


That is what i am using! They cool really well, but @ 100% kind of sound like a mini jet engine, though that goes away once you have headphones on and are gaming. My next purchase will probably be a fan controller so i can throttle my fan speeds on the fly.

I think my AS5 finally cured, as I've been seeing a decrease in my idle and load temps in the last couple of days.

I am loving the H50!

I am going to let Prime run all day long and will update if I see higher temps, but so far it hasn't broke 50c!


----------



## Robit

Hi All! Just a FYI..... I have an Ultra Kase on the H50(exhaust-133cfm) mounted on the outside of my case with the Rad in the inside(space thing)...... The dBA's can be a bit much with my AMD Phenom X4 940 @ 3.7 GHz, soooo I used an airconditioner pad-you know the foam strip that go's on the window...... it's about 15" long by 1 1/2" wide by 3/8" thick & is black with self adhesive back. I put it around the outside of the fan to see if it cut down on the noise..... IT DID! If you want to try this out - go to any Hardware store & pick-up two(or whatever-120mm fan would be 19" around) with some black elec tape.... & you're set! I'd like to know what ya-all think & your results.... Good Luck!







Thanks


----------



## TwwIX

The Ultra Kaze's don't undervolt well from what i have heard. They sound worse if you undervolt them. I Am going with the 2000rpm version. The static air pressure rating for it is a bit over 4.00 mm H2O. That should be more than enough at full speed. The 3000rpm version is way too ****ing loud for my liking.


----------



## VW_TDI_02

Does anyone know how well this matches up to the Puget Hydro CL1? It's pretty similar in looks but I'm not totally sure (hence me asking here). Here is the link (or you can simply use Google):
http://www.asetek.com/content/view/384/170/


----------



## B-Con

Quote:



Originally Posted by *VW_TDI_02*


Does anyone know how well this matches up to the Puget Hydro CL1? It's pretty similar in looks but I'm not totally sure (hence me asking here). Here is the link (or you can simply use Google):
http://www.asetek.com/content/view/384/170/


It's the same thing... Just a re-branded Asetek LCLC.

http://www.pugetsystems.com/part_info.php?part=5770


----------



## VW_TDI_02

That's what I figured. I'm thinking of cannibalizing the radiator for a full WC system. Has anyone tried to use the pump or block from one of these separately?

VW


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NovaNab* 
Hey guys I would Like to know if i could join this club







Heres my corsair H50 pic

Welcome!

There is an interactive spreadsheet on the front page of this thread... just add yourself









Nice clean & tidy setup buddy. 8/10 for cable management!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TwwIX* 
I should be getting mine this week. I just got to order some Ultra Kazes for the push/pull configuration.

They are a fine fan. Ive 2 x UK 2000s in push/pull Intake and they do a nice job.


----------



## Fantomau

Would these do good for P/P?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24749

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...28970ee6992ea2


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fantomau*


Would these do good for P/P?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24749

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...28970ee6992ea2


Yes and they come sleeved. I _may_ actually be selling a pair of 1850 GT's later this week, but they're not sleeved.


----------



## Fantomau

And the YLs? They wouldnt do good?


----------



## Jocelyn84

Well, I've heard great things about Yates, but I hear that its best to get them from www.petrastechshop.com. *Supposedly* if they're not from Petras, they're not real. If you're not in a hurry to purchase, I just bought two Gelid Wing PL PWM fans which _may_ replace my GT AP-15's. I'll let you know how they measure up when they get here (Wednesday).


----------



## Fantomau

I have gelids in my case now, Not the PWM versions, just the silent ones.

I love how its easy to remove the blades from the casing for cleaning.

Did you get these?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24971


----------



## Fantomau

I have gelids in my case now, Not the PWM versions, just the silent ones.

I love how its easy to remove the blades from the casing for cleaning.

Did you get these?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24971


----------



## Jocelyn84

Nope, I got two of these as I've become addicted having a silent case since recently purchasing the FT02. I'm hoping they'll do fine running as PWM fans running off the motherboard with a 3.6Ghz OC.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27555


----------



## Fantomau

Think I'll stick with either the YLs or the typhoons.


----------



## Jocelyn84

Yeah I think the GT's are great and I'd suggest them to anyone. I've also heard great things about the Yate's too.
I wasn't suggesting the Gelid's for you, but instead was explaining why I was switching to them and mentioned I'd let you know how they compared


----------



## Fantomau

Its cool, I know. I just wonder why performance-pcs would sell 'fake' or not 'real' YLs?


----------



## Jocelyn84

Well I'm not making that assertion, but I've read here and elsewhere (HForum, Anandtech, Xtremesystems, etc.) that Petra is the only US reseller Yate Loon has officially said they sell to.


----------



## Fantomau

Ahh - Maybe I should ask p-pcs


----------



## iamwardicus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kand*


Still no luck with the custom screws! I've visited six hardware stores and always get something either a mite too thick or too thin.

Looks like I'm sticking with my cable ties for longer. :3



What I did - was just get a couple nuts (or more if you need) and use them as spacers against the head of the screw to make it the correct length.

[H] = Head of screw
| = Nuts
= = screw thread

[H]|||================= 
Like the above (poorly done) diagram.


----------



## SilverPotato

Does the H50 pump have enough kick to push liquid through full blown GPU block too? I'm thinking of getting another single RAD and a 5850 block.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SilverPotato* 
Does the H50 pump have enough kick to push liquid through full blown GPU block too? I'm thinking of getting another single RAD and a 5850 block.

it depends where your mounting the rad at, if on the roof of the case then no, it probably wont be able to handle the pressure


----------



## Sethy666

Ive just had my new Quad 9400 CPU arrive this morning, it will be replacing my faithful E8400 duo. It will be going in this arvo, when I get home









Ill let you all know about temps and such once ive installed it.

I sort of remember that I have to reset the BIOS for the new processor. Anything else I need to remember?


----------



## SilverPotato

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


it depends where your mounting the rad at, if on the roof of the case then no, it probably wont be able to handle the pressure


Could the stock rad handle the CPU and GPU?

5850s run hot under load, around 75-80C


----------



## Sethy666

Well, Ive install my new Q9400 and Im very happy with it. My temps are higher that the E8400 but thats to be expected.

Room ambient 23c

Ive managed to slash my SMP folding times from 12min, 9sec on the E8400 to 7min, 30sec on stock - so Im a happy camper.

For quad users, is it normal to have one core hotter than the rest?

Linpack below...


----------



## happysam

Hello again!

i've just finished building. - specs are in the sig with one exception: i have only one HDD at the moment... so i've not locked down all my cabling in case i have to screw around later.

but here are pics, my case temp is about 29C and cpu at around 10+that at bios (getting the impression that i need to re-seat the H50...so i bought some more stock paste)

fans... well i haven't really splashed yet, going to get a baseline with the stock antec fans, and one more cheap antec tricool on the side pulling into the GPU.

the H50 is mounted exhaust at the moment, and has the corsair fan pushing and the case fan pulling.

also have an OCX rev 2 cooling the ram.

i'll have temps in the next few days... all the fans are manual control at the moment so i get to have lots of fun finding out how they affect the rig while i play with benchmarkers.

PICTURES FOLLOW from my crap phone... any words of wisdom?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *happysam*


Hello again!

i've just finished building. - specs are in the sig with one exception: i have only one HDD at the moment... so i've not locked down all my cabling in case i have to screw around later.

but here are pics, my case temp is about 29C and cpu at around 10+that at bios (getting the impression that i need to re-seat the H50...so i bought some more stock paste)

fans... well i haven't really splashed yet, going to get a baseline with the stock antec fans, and one more cheap antec tricool on the side pulling into the GPU.

the H50 is mounted exhaust at the moment, and has the corsair fan pushing and the case fan pulling.

also have an OCX rev 2 cooling the ram.

i'll have temps in the next few days... all the fans are manual control at the moment so i get to have lots of fun finding out how they affect the rig while i play with benchmarkers.

PICTURES FOLLOW from my crap phone... any words of wisdom?


Looking good but until we see some temps, cant really comment. Good choice with the corsair fan as push.

You may want to consider fans with a high CFM (>70) and think about using some shrouds for a further reduction in your temps.

Once you get your other HD organised, have a look at your cable management... its always a free temp saver









Nice work


----------



## rck1984

After weeks of reading on this forum, i decided to go pick up a Corsair H50 later today as well. Unless someone tells me not to do it, i would like to run my i5 750 on 4Ghz, and this H50 should help me with that, i read it capable of doing that job.

Thing is tho, my pc is standing at the top floor of my house, which means... in winters its getting pretty "cold" up there, around 20c with elements on. (i recently re-build that part of the house, so we are still fixing stuff, like elements (dunno if its the right word in english) up there). On the other hand, in summers it might get close to 30c without AC running the whole day.

This means quite some difference in temp during the year, i hope my H50 can handle keeping my i5 750 cooled 24/7 during the whole year.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rck1984*


After weeks of reading on this forum, i decided to go pick up a Corsair H50 later today as well. Unless someone tells me not to do it, i would like to run my i5 750 on 4Ghz, and this H50 should help me with that, i read it capable of doing that job.

Thing is tho, my pc is standing at the top floor of my house, which means... in winters its getting pretty "cold" up there, around 20c with elements on. (i recently re-build that part of the house, so we are still fixing stuff, like elements (dunno if its the right word in english) up there). On the other hand, in summers it might get close to 30c without AC running the whole day.

This means quite some difference in temp during the year, i hope my H50 can handle keeping my i5 750 cooled 24/7 during the whole year.


Good decision! get yourself some UltraKaze on a controller with 25mm shrouds and around and 33c should be your idle!


----------



## rck1984

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


Good decision! get yourself some UltraKaze on a controller with 25mm shrouds and around and 33c should be your idle!



Allrighty, those shrouds are easily made by modding an old 120mm fan right?
And about the fans, i was actually checking for:

Gentle Typhoon, Flex-S F or an Ultrakaze, but i am currently in Stockholm and cant find any store with either one of these in stock. So i guess till i am back home in Holland and check some stores there.

33c idle is crazy good (compared with temps i have now with a cheap TX3), u really think i could manage that on a 4.0Ghz i5 750?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SilverPotato*


Could the stock rad handle the CPU and GPU?

5850s run hot under load, around 75-80C


if you have decent fans on it, then possibly, youd hafta try it


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rck1984*


Allrighty, those shrouds are easily made by modding an old 120mm fan right?

And about the fans, i was actually checking for:

Gentle Typhoon, Flex-S F or an Ultrakaze, but i am currently in Stockholm and cant find any store with either one of these in stock. So i guess till i am back home in Holland and check some stores there.

33c idle is crazy good (compared with temps i have now with a cheap TX3), u really think i could manage that on a 4.0Ghz i5 750?


Yeah i just ripped out the fan of my coolermaster stock and used the outside.

Good luck in the Netherlands finding fans!! i cant, only online!!

Where in Holland you coming too? I'm in Den Haag.

You could easily hit 4ghz these lynnfields are good up to 4.5+ but i'm happy with 4ghz,



The ultrakaze 38mm are really good fans, but getting a good fan controller is a must too, at full power they are bearable (IMO) but are much better at lower speeds!



Using a 2 shrouds in push / pull will get you best temps, depending on your set up either intake or exhaust


----------



## rck1984

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


Yeah i just ripped out the fan of my coolermaster stock and used the outside.

Good luck in the Netherlands finding fans!! i cant, only online!!

Where in Holland you coming too? I'm in Den Haag.

You could easily hit 4ghz these lynnfields are good up to 4.5+ but i'm happy with 4ghz,



The ultrakaze 38mm are really good fans, but getting a good fan controller is a must too, at full power they are bearable (IMO) but are much better at lower speeds!



Using a 2 shrouds in push / pull will get you best temps, depending on your set up either intake or exhaust




I am living in the south actually, near Maastricht.. good thing is, i live near the border... so i can check Netherlands, Germany and Belgium... if i cant find anything then ill check online. (www.alternate.nl is pretty decent)

I think i will sacrifice my poor Coolermaster stock fan as well then, reason i checked up the other fans i because, yes i am not using a fancontroller at this very moment, i could look for one tho..

So ill see what to do, thanks for the info mate


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rck1984*


I am living in the south actually, near Maastricht.. good thing is, i live near the border... so i can check Netherlands, Germany and Belgium... if i cant find anything then ill check online. (www.alternate.nl is pretty decent)

I think i will sacrifice my poor Coolermaster stock fan as well then, reason i checked up the other fans i because, yes i am not using a fancontroller at this very moment, i could look for one tho..

So ill see what to do, thanks for the info mate


Ah cool man, have a look at Highflow.nl and informatique.nl thats where i got my Ultrakazes from.

good luck and post temps when you've get it set up!


----------



## Striker36

hey all!

i picked my my H-50 about 2 weeks ago! so here i am! ill be modding mine out for a second 120mm rad and a rez in the next little while (that will be in "The Reactor Project" work long) and ill be sure to take lots of pictures and show you all.

looks like i have a bunch of reading to do on hose sizes and stuff








oh well its a learning experience!


----------



## rck1984

Just came back from store, so i am an official member of this club now








I brought my girlfriend with me (not the smartest thing to do obviously) and we took a Fractale Design R2 case with us for her as well..


----------



## Kand

I found some screws that should fit! Now all that's left is to saw off the excess length.


----------



## spacegoast

Add me to the club:


----------



## cjc75

If I am going to mount my H50 on the rear of my Storm Scout, as an exhaust using a Push/Pull set up and a shroud....

Do both fans on the push/pull have to be identical; and does it make much difference if they are not?


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cjc75*


If I am going to mount my H50 on the rear of my Storm Scout, as an exhaust using a Push/Pull set up and a shroud....

Do both fans on the push/pull have to be identical; and does it make much difference if they are not?


Ideally they should be identical, or else you could run into the problem of the higher RPM fan burning up the motor of the lower RPM fan.


----------



## Demon_panda

just got my h50







and i'v got the haf922 would i get better temp mont it and the top
becoz of the air in the h50? 
i'll post a pic when my fan get here [tomorrow or the next day]


----------



## ZaG

Hello all i finally purchased this cooler on Saturday not really happy with the performance i used to have a Scythe M







Mugen 2 and i've been looking around and i was just wondering how two of these would perform in a push pull
/ http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums...c.php?p=431970

also I have a Lancool K62 and and im running an i7 920 CO @ 1.375 to 1.40 volts the highest temp that i've gotten is 74 degrees Celsius currently im using the corsair stock fan as intake. Any advice/ suggestions ohh and can i be part of the club? pics!


----------



## cjc75

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ljason8eg* 
Ideally they should be identical, or else you could run into the problem of the higher RPM fan burning up the motor of the lower RPM fan.

I had a feeling that'd be the best way to go....

Anyway, I haven't got the H50 mounted yet. I just finished the Build this weekend and used the Stock HSF with the Phenom II x4 955BE; just to get things up and running, Windows installed, etc...

Figured it would be better to wait, and mount the H50 when I get the extra fans for it; rather then having to take its rad back out of the case again.

I'll probably get some Pics posted later in the week after I get the new fans to go with it and finally get it installed!


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ZaG* 
... i was just wondering how two of these would perform in a push pull
/ http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums...c.php?p=431970

They're great, but get the AP-15's. They do make a lil bit of a humming noise, but they're very quiet and not annoying.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demon_panda*


just got my h50







and i'v got the haf922 would i get better temp mont it and the top
becoz of the air in the h50? 
i'll post a pic when my fan get here [tomorrow or the next day]


I got the best temps by mounting it in the extra 5 1/4 drive bays (I originally had it as exhaust out the back) Here are the pics:


----------



## Fantomau

Would Antec TriCool 3 Speed 120mm x 25mm Case Fans do good on the H50?


----------



## Demon_panda

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


I got the best temps by mounting it in the extra 5 1/4 drive bays (I originally had it as exhaust out the back) Here are the pics:










how do u mont it


----------



## SilverPotato

I just put shrouds on my H50, I won't be able to tell if the temps lowered until I get my 5850 in and I can actually plug my monitor in.

*grumbles about on board HD4290 not working and about ASUS's lousy quality control*


----------



## Fantomau

Would this work?

http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/file...fes-shroud.jpg

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24275


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Fantomau* 
Would this work?

http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/file...fes-shroud.jpg

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24275

Yep and I have a red one I'd ship for cheap. Only thing is, you'll probably need to buy some 3" screws and cut them down to ~2.5"


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 

For quad users, is it normal to have one core hotter than the rest?

..

Hey Sethy,
Yes Sir, it is normal for the temps to be different, all 4 will vary from each other and at times you may see 4C swing or more from the lowest to the highest

You will be pleased with the extra punch though.


----------



## uppercutx

Count me in


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killer01ws6*


Hey Sethy,
Yes Sir, it is normal for the temps to be different, all 4 will vary from each other and at times you may see 4C swing or more from the lowest to the highest

You will be pleased with the extra punch though.










Thanks for that... I had read that before but I just wanted to confirm I didnt have a mis-seat on the pump.

Oh yeah... loving that extra hump! Especially when folding









Quote:



Originally Posted by *uppercutx*

Count me in










Nice, clean setup you have there









You can add yourself to the membership list - there is an interactive spreadsheet on the first page.

Welcome!


----------



## ZaG

Hey all sorry to bother or interrupt i just purchased @ san ace 1011's 120mm fans instead of the typhoons and im planning to push pull the hell out of these bad boys what do you guys think? will i really see a change?


----------



## Unleash The Beast

How did you guys add shrouds? My h50 pump comes in the way and i can't even add one shroud. I don't want to have the fan outside of my case. And I can't fit the rad in my front drive bays.


----------



## Prugor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *killer01ws6* 
Hey Sethy,
Yes Sir, it is normal for the temps to be different, all 4 will vary from each other and at times you may see 4C swing or more from the lowest to the highest

You will be pleased with the extra punch though.









I see about a 6-8C difference from Core 1 to Core 4.

Generally EQ2 sits on the 4th core, everything else goes on the first core. Everything else is... browsing, music player, movies, etc. So it's pretty normal.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast* 
How did you guys add shrouds? My h50 pump comes in the way and i can't even add one shroud. I don't want to have the fan outside of my case. And I can't fit the rad in my front drive bays.

You're probably gonna have to do some modding. Maybe move some things around to make it fit in the front drive area or start cutting some things up.


----------



## MegaTherion

Should be getting my H50 and 2x Ultra Kaze 3k fans for push/pull tomorrow, super excited since my Thermaltake V1 didn't cool my 965BE nearly as well as the stock cooler







, and I haven't been able to OC past 3.6GHz without hitting temps above 56c under load.

Ambient temps are currently 27c. I have an Antec Nine Hundred and plan on mounting it in the rear of the chassis where the 120mm fan currently is. I'm thinking I'll have it pushing air into the radiator from outside of the chassis into the case since the 210mm fan up top is exhausting a lot of air out. Hope to have some pics posted once it's done


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MegaTherion*


Should be getting my H50 and 2x Ultra Kaze 3k fans for push/pull tomorrow, super excited since my Thermaltake V1 didn't cool my 965BE nearly as well as the stock cooler







, and I haven't been able to OC past 3.6GHz without hitting temps above 56c under load.

Ambient temps are currently 27c. I have an Antec Nine Hundred and plan on mounting it in the rear of the chassis where the 120mm fan currently is. I'm thinking I'll have it pushing air into the radiator from outside of the chassis into the case since the 210mm fan up top is exhausting a lot of air out. Hope to have some pics posted once it's done










The top fan on the 900 is a 200mm.


----------



## Prugor

Remove your DVDrom and mount the H50 in those drive bays, should take up just alittle over 3 slots. That should give you a good amount of clearance. And basically just use a usb drive and iso's for all your CD's. or fanagle some sorta external dvdrom using an external sata hdd.


----------



## ZaG

No advice for the San ace push pull?


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ZaG*


No advice for the San ace push pull?


Hearing protection.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Hearing protection.


True.


----------



## looser101

ChosenLord tried a couple Deltas.








YouTube- 2xDelta Fans - VERY LOUD!!


----------



## Demon_panda

add me

just got my new fans

































[/IMG]

my stock temp ideal 25c load 50c room temps 22c
good temp?

quote low temp on load 46c did i [email protected]#$ up application thermal compound?
lol but im using stock thermal compound big fail?

do u guys like the pic?


----------



## Monsk

Yay just got mine today from Best Buy for surprising 60 bucks!! Got the second to last one, and now my Best Buy is sold out.









Here are some images of the installation. My is it quieter and cooler than my V8.







!!!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast* 
How did you guys add shrouds? My h50 pump comes in the way and i can't even add one shroud. I don't want to have the fan outside of my case. And I can't fit the rad in my front drive bays.

You may have already done so but can you post us a pic or two of your case's innards. Sometimes its easy to visualise a problem than try to describe it with words.

Thanks

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Monsk*
Yay just got mine today from Best Buy for surprising 60 bucks!! Got the second to last one, and now my Best Buy is sold out.









Here are some images of the installation. My is it quieter and cooler than my V8. !!!

Yeah! Welcome... looks nice. Dont forget to change your System Specs









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Demon panda*
my stock temp ideal 25c load 50c room temps 22c
good temp?

quote low temp on load 46c did i [email protected]#$ up application thermal compound?
lol but im using stock thermal compound big fail?

do u guys like the pic?

I like the pics very much... but Im having trouble understanding what you mean about your temps. From what I gather, your temps look okay. The stock thermal paste is good stuff, albeit a tad thick


----------



## Monsk

More pics..


----------



## Monsk

add me to the list?


----------



## Demon_panda

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


You may have already done so but can you post us a pic or two of your case's innards. Sometimes its easy to visualise a problem than try to describe it with words.

Thanks

Yeah! Welcome... looks nice. Dont forget to change your System Specs









I like the pics very much... but Im having trouble understanding what you mean about your temps. From what I gather, your temps look okay. The stock thermal paste is good stuff, albeit a tad thick


just that 1 of my core it 4c low than the rest. y is this?
realtemp or coretemp?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demon_panda*


just that 1 of my core it 4c low than the rest. y is this?
realtemp or coretemp?


From what Ive heard reatemp is the way to go. 
Having different temps on difference cores is normal... I just found that out myself, today









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Monsk*

add me to the list?


You may add yourself - there is an interactive list at the front of the thread


----------



## happysam

okay so should i be worried that one of my cores suffered an error only 40 mins into OCCN?

or is it something that happens a bit?

cpu running at stock 3.06ghz

i'm running my case with everything set to minimum speed (case fans anyway). corsair stock fan pushing, antec tricool pulling (set to top soeed) and running as exhaust.

any feedback on the below temps? (idle is about 30C and ambient temp in case is around 28C)


----------



## Reactions

How does this cooler compete with a Noctua D14?


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Reactions*


How does this cooler compete with a Noctua D14?


They are very close, depending on the case setup, airflow they go back and forth.. I "think" one or two had the Noctua just a hair above the H50 for cpu temps.
depending how you have the H50, it can give you cooler case temps and lots less noise.
there is "Much" good info, comparisons and data in this long thread if you read it from the start.


----------



## SperVxo

I have or had one of these. I sent mine back today for RMA. The pump started to make a rattling noise after 6 days. SO im upp for a new choice. Get a new H50 or trade of for another cooler. And the option in that case was the Noctua D14.

H50 you can do alot of tweaking to make it cool the cpu even better then Stock.
and the Noctua you dont have much choice. Its possible to have 3 fans i guess but the trouble didnt seem worth the effort to install a third fan.
Also the placement of Noctua.

Some seem to install it with the air blowing upwards and have the intake right above the GPU. Can that really be good? I mean the heat from the GPU must make a huge impact?
And also i think its huge and i want to be able to watch me beatiful motherboard =P J/k

Well i have until tomorrow to decide.

Some speccs

Intel I5 750 @4ghz 70c full load in intelburntest with H50 Push pull
Asus P55P7DE-Pro
Corsair XMS
Lian Li lancool K 62


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SperVxo* 
I have or had one of these. I sent mine back today for RMA. The pump started to make a rattling noise after 6 days. SO im upp for a new choice. Get a new H50 or trade of for another cooler. And the option in that case was the Noctua D14.

H50 you can do alot of tweaking to make it cool the cpu even better then Stock.
and the Noctua you dont have much choice. Its possible to have 3 fans i guess but the trouble didnt seem worth the effort to install a third fan.
Also the placement of Noctua.

Some seem to install it with the air blowing upwards and have the intake right above the GPU. Can that really be good? I mean the heat from the GPU must make a huge impact?
And also i think its huge and i want to be able to watch me beatiful motherboard =P J/k

Well i have until tomorrow to decide.

Some speccs

Intel I5 750 @4ghz 70c full load in intelburntest with H50 Push pull
Asus P55P7DE-Pro
Corsair XMS
Lian Li lancool K 62

Your points are good,
I would have to ask myself this....
Did the H50 cool my CPU like I expected it to do..
If so, I would get an other.. Yes you said it made noise... but there are 1000's of us with them and no issues, then there is the great customer service from Corsair...

if it worked for me before, I would get an other, if it did not... time to look for a new player.


----------



## SperVxo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *killer01ws6* 
Your points are good,
I would have to ask myself this....
Did the H50 cool my CPU like I expected it to do..
If so, I would get an other.. Yes you said it made noise... but there are 1000's of us with them and no issues, then there is the great customer service from Corsair...

if it worked for me before, I would get an other, if it did not... time to look for a new player.


Well i guess i would go for another H50. It could have been a bad batch.
The retailer hade hundreds of them sold and a few returned for the same noise error from the pump. Maybe a 5% RMA. Some people dont bother with the noise the pump can make. But it poops my vein after 1 hour of surfing the web =P

Anyhow the H50 is arriving att the retailer tomorrow for an error check and hopefully they send me a new one tomorrow.

I probably order 2 of those Gentle typhoons... Probably better then the stock fan and the stock 120mm Lian fan =)

And maybe even try to make some more extensive tweaking =)


----------



## Demon_panda

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SperVxo* 
Well i guess i would go for another H50. It could have been a bad batch.
The retailer hade hundreds of them sold and a few returned for the same noise error from the pump. Maybe a 5% RMA. Some people dont bother with the noise the pump can make. But it poops my vein after 1 hour of surfing the web =P

Anyhow the H50 is arriving att the retailer tomorrow for an error check and hopefully they send me a new one tomorrow.

I probably order 2 of those Gentle typhoons... Probably better then the stock fan and the stock 120mm Lian fan =)

And maybe even try to make some more extensive tweaking =)

how noise was it ?


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SperVxo*


Well i guess i would go for another H50. It could have been a bad batch.
The retailer hade hundreds of them sold and a few returned for the same noise error from the pump. Maybe a 5% RMA. Some people dont bother with the noise the pump can make. But it poops my vein after 1 hour of surfing the web =P

Anyhow the H50 is arriving att the retailer tomorrow for an error check and hopefully they send me a new one tomorrow.

I probably order 2 of those Gentle typhoons... Probably better then the stock fan and the stock 120mm Lian fan =)

And maybe even try to make some more extensive tweaking =)


My case is very quiet with the HAF932 fans, I did get a bit of raise in my noise floor from adding the new fans for my H50 but it is still quiet. I would notice a noisy pump for sure and like you it would drive me crazy.

I almost went with the gentle typhoons myself, I didn't because I could not find the Static air pressure they move vs the SFF21F Fans at the time.

Let me know how they do for you.


----------



## Demon_panda

i have Request an RMA to corsair becoz of a noise pump ;(


----------



## kcuestag

Hello people.

I need your urgent recommendation.

Right now I have 2 Xigmatek push/pull with the H50 radiator. They look cool, but they don't push much air sadly.

So I was planning to buy 2 of these:

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/...0mm::7293.html

Do you recommend them? Are they very loud compared to my Xigmatek ??


----------



## SperVxo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Demon_panda* 
how noise was it ?

I can compare the noise whit the same noise the hardrive does when its loading.

I have a video recordning with my iphone on youtube








YouTube- Corsair h50 pump noise
Cant hear it very clear here cause of the fan.


----------



## SperVxo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Demon_panda* 
i have Request an RMA to corsair becoz of a noise pump ;(

How early did the noise start? Mine was 6 days.
Some peeps has gotten the noise from 1st day and 1 month of using the H50

I really HOPE that this wont happen again to my new H50 =/

But corsair themself has a great support so it shouldnt be a issue to RMA that one as well.


----------



## Demon_panda

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Hello people.

I need your urgent recommendation.

Right now I have 2 Xigmatek push/pull with the H50 radiator. They look cool, but they don't push much air sadly.

So I was planning to buy 2 of these:

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/...0mm::7293.html

Do you recommend them? Are they very loud compared to my Xigmatek ??

Noctua NF-P12 or Gentle typhoons now noise


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Demon_panda* 
Noctua NF-P12 or Gentle typhoons now noise

I can't find them in Hardwareversand.de or Caseking.de


----------



## SperVxo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *killer01ws6* 
My case is very quiet with the HAF932 fans, I did get a bit of raise in my noise floor from adding the new fans for my H50 but it is still quiet. I would notice a noisy pump for sure and like you it would drive me crazy.

I almost went with the gentle typhoons myself, I didn't because I could not find the Static air pressure they move vs the SFF21F Fans at the time.

Let me know how they do for you.

Well im from sweden and in the Internet shop i buy my stuff from has the GT in diffrent speed. 800-1200-1500 and upp to 1800. I was thinkin of gettin the 1800 and use the fan controller for a lower speed.

I was also considering the Noctua 120 mm fans. But they are abit pricey. Its the doubble price of 1 GT =P


----------



## Demon_panda

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SperVxo* 
How early did the noise start? Mine was 6 days.
Some peeps has gotten the noise from 1st day and 1 month of using the H50

I really HOPE that this wont happen again to my new H50 =/

But corsair themself has a great support so it shouldnt be a issue to RMA that one as well.

3 week sad thing is i just got my new fans =(


----------



## spacegoast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Hello people.

I need your urgent recommendation.

Right now I have 2 Xigmatek push/pull with the H50 radiator. They look cool, but they don't push much air sadly.

So I was planning to buy 2 of these:

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/...0mm::7293.html

Do you recommend them? Are they very loud compared to my Xigmatek ??

They are very loud, but if you put them on a fan controller you can turn them down at any time. They work fine for me







. Many people report these have a humming/buzzing noise when you undervolt them, but not everyone has this problem. I like them only because they are inexpensive and move lots of air.


----------



## SperVxo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Demon_panda* 
3 week sad thing is i just got my new fans =(

I am to wonder how many RMA there is for this specific error?

I mean what are the chances of getting one more that fails


----------



## SperVxo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spacegoast* 
They are very loud, but if you put them on a fan controller you can turn them down at any time. They work fine for me







. Many people report these have a humming/buzzing noise when you undervolt them, but not everyone has this problem. I like them only because they are inexpensive and move lots of air.

yeah i think i read that somewhere.... I think the GT is a great choice. So ill order 2 of those and maybe another 140MM fan to mount in the front of my Lancool k62 and try to mount the cooling unit in the CD slots =)

Can always go whit silent fans @ 800-1000 rpm but then im looked for more cooling power when Torturing the cpu =P


----------



## Demon_panda

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SperVxo* 
Well im from sweden and in the Internet shop i buy my stuff from has the GT in diffrent speed. 800-1200-1500 and upp to 1800. I was thinkin of gettin the 1800 and use the fan controller for a lower speed.

I was also considering the Noctua 120 mm fans. But they are abit pricey. Its the doubble price of 1 GT =P

yea Noctua pricey as. but look wat u get with them. fan + the low noise adapoter got them on some noise old fan =)


----------



## Demon_panda

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SperVxo* 
I am to wonder how many RMA there is for this specific error?

I mean what are the chances of getting one more that fails









5% or lower but rma it and corsair fix it or a new one =)
good old corsair

o yea 6 year warranty on the noctua fans


----------



## SperVxo

Youst checked inside my chassi. Is there any performance decrease to use the lower PCI -e slot?

otherwize the radiator heat will blow right on the card =)


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SperVxo* 
Youst checked inside my chassi. Is there any performance decrease to use the lower PCI -e slot?

otherwize the radiator heat will blow right on the card =)

What board do you have?

Fill this out when you have time








http://www.overclock.net/specs.php


----------



## kcuestag

They don't have those Gentle Typhoons in Germany, at least I can't find any website that they have such. And the Noctua's are only 1300rpm









Any suggestions?

I usually buy from Caseking.de and Hardwareversand.de

I want to replace my cheap Xigmateks







I was thinking for those 3000rpm Scythe but I heard they're too loud :O


----------



## SperVxo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84*


What board do you have?

Fill this out when you have time








http://www.overclock.net/specs.php


Asus P7P55D-E Pro


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


They don't have those Gentle Typhoons in Germany, at least I can't find any website that they have such. And the Noctua's are only 1300rpm









Any suggestions?

I usually buy from Caseking.de and Hardwareversand.de

I want to replace my cheap Xigmateks







I was thinking for those 3000rpm Scythe but I heard they're too loud :O


Can you grab them from the UK? 
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Scythe-Gentl...1176538&sr=1-2

http://www.novatech.co.uk/novatech/p...12B5AP-15.html

http://www.overclock.co.uk/product/S...Fan_25732.html


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84*


Can you grab them from the UK? 
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Scythe-Gentl...1176538&sr=1-2


I heard once that sites such as Play.com and Amazon don't ship hardware and accessories out of UK, at least they told me they didn't ship hardware and Xbox 360 controllers, so don't think they'll ship fans


----------



## illestdomer2005

I am thoroughly unimpressed with the temps I am seeing, but I am open to the fact that I could've done something wrong or just have too high expectations...

I just built a new i7 rig 4 days ago. I have my i7 920 OC'ed to 4GHz w/HT at a voltage of 1.28125. Under 100% load on LinX, I was getting in the upper 80s! I am using the stock fan in a HAF 932 case. Needless to say, I am pretty disappointed.

Now, when I initially installed the "block" on the CPU, the retention ring was too tight; so, I tried to keep the block pressed against the CPU, but it might not have maintained full contact the entire time; so, maybe the thermal pad didn't "seat" properly? I don't know. In any event, I am more than a little bummed.


----------



## Demon_panda

Quote:



Originally Posted by *illestdomer2005*


I am thoroughly unimpressed with the temps I am seeing, but I am open to the fact that I could've done something wrong or just have too high expectations...

I just built a new i7 rig 4 days ago. I have my i7 920 OC'ed to 4GHz w/HT at a voltage of 1.28125. Under 100% load on LinX, I was getting in the upper 80s! I am using the stock fan in a HAF 932 case. Needless to say, I am pretty disappointed.

Now, when I initially installed the "block" on the CPU, the retention ring was too tight; so, I tried to keep the block pressed against the CPU, but it might not have maintained full contact the entire time; so, maybe the thermal pad didn't "seat" properly? I don't know. In any event, I am more than a little bummed.


pushpull with good fans Scythe GentleTyphoon or Noctua NF-P12 for low noise but i think the Scythe GentleTyphoon has 3000rpm models it will drop ur temps.


----------



## SperVxo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *illestdomer2005*


I am thoroughly unimpressed with the temps I am seeing, but I am open to the fact that I could've done something wrong or just have too high expectations...

I just built a new i7 rig 4 days ago. I have my i7 920 OC'ed to 4GHz w/HT at a voltage of 1.28125. Under 100% load on LinX, I was getting in the upper 80s! I am using the stock fan in a HAF 932 case. Needless to say, I am pretty disappointed.

Now, when I initially installed the "block" on the CPU, the retention ring was too tight; so, I tried to keep the block pressed against the CPU, but it might not have maintained full contact the entire time; so, maybe the thermal pad didn't "seat" properly? I don't know. In any event, I am more than a little bummed.


I dont know how you have your fan setup. But having 2 fans might do 5 degrees. It did for me anyway. And changing from outake to intake made a few degrees even more. Turning the rad upside down made 2 degrees for me.

I did have an IMC Voltage of 1.35. Asus own way of clocking =P Turned that one down to 1.2V and there goes another 4 Degrees =P


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


I heard once that sites such as Play.com and Amazon don't ship hardware and accessories out of UK, at least they told me they didn't ship hardware and Xbox 360 controllers, so don't think they'll ship fans










That specific vendor ships all over Europe. Its not through Amazon.
Anyway, I have no idea about the stores rep, but I just filled out some BS german address info and it would be Â£ 34.99 for two 1850's shipped to Germany. A lil more gets them there faster.

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/...&cat=0&page=65

Also, his place is reputable, has them and ships internationally. You may have to call though.
http://www.quietpc.com/gb-en-gbp/pro...ns/gt-120-1850


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84*


That specific vendor ships all over Europe. Its not through Amazon.
Anyway, I have no idea about the stores rep, but I just filled out some BS german address info and it would be Â£ 34.99 for two 1850's shipped to Germany. A lil more gets them there faster.

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/...&cat=0&page=65


Tham, they're expensive 

I think i'll wait for a bit until I buy something else, I thought they were cheaper. Can't spend so much money right now, I spent loads this month with games ( Bad Company 2, Assassin's Creed 2, GTA IV, Command and Conquer 4, Alien vs Predator ... ), Windows 7 Home Premium, a new 23" 1920x1080p monitor...

I guess i'll wait


----------



## Kand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *illestdomer2005*


I am thoroughly unimpressed with the temps I am seeing, but I am open to the fact that I could've done something wrong or just have too high expectations...

I just built a new i7 rig 4 days ago. I have my i7 920 OC'ed to 4GHz w/HT at a voltage of 1.28125. Under 100% load on LinX, I was getting in the upper 80s! I am using the stock fan in a HAF 932 case. Needless to say, I am pretty disappointed.

Now, when I initially installed the "block" on the CPU, the retention ring was too tight; so, I tried to keep the block pressed against the CPU, but it might not have maintained full contact the entire time; so, maybe the thermal pad didn't "seat" properly? I don't know. In any event, I am more than a little bummed.


I bet he's using the stock fan included with the H50. :3

Pics please?


----------



## Demon_panda

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Tham, they're expensive 

I think i'll wait for a bit until I buy something else, I thought they were cheaper. Can't spend so much money right now, I spent loads this month with games ( Bad Company 2, Assassin's Creed 2, GTA IV, Command and Conquer 4, Alien vs Predator ... ), Windows 7 Home Premium, a new 23" 1920x1080p monitor...

I guess i'll wait










Bad Company 2 ftw


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kand*


I bet he's using the stock fan included with the H50. :3

Pics please?










I am using 1 stock from H50 and 1 xigmatek, although I have another spare xigmatek of these:

http://www1.hardwareversand.de/artic...id=23773&lid=2

Are they bwetter than the stock H50 fan? If so I could install the spare one to have x2 xigmatek instead.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demon_panda*


Bad Company 2 ftw










This.


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


I am using 1 stock from H50 and 1 xigmatek, although I have another spare xigmatek of these:

http://www1.hardwareversand.de/artic...id=23773&lid=2

Are they bwetter than the stock H50 fan? If so I could install the spare one to have x2 xigmatek instead.


Kand meant illestdomer2005 not you








I'd try it with two Xigis and see what kind of temps you get


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84*


Kand meant illestdomer2005 not you








I'd try it with two Xigis and see what kind of temps you get










Would you recommend me having it as ( push/pull ) intake or exhaust?

Here's my PC:



The first fan on H50 rad is the stock H50 and then the Xigmatek, they're exhausting off the case.


----------



## Jocelyn84

Try both, but I'd personally say exhaust. I had 1-2 lower cpu temps with intake on my 902, but my case temps got very hot inside with all the hot air coming off the radiotr going into my case. Of course now that I'm using a Silverstone Fortress 2, exhaust is my only option, in terms of mounting it up top.

Quoting Killhouse









"_Basically - mounting the radiator as INTAKE will reduce CPU temperatures, the amount depends a lot on your case and your other hardware. If you have loud, stock coolers on your graphics card and less-than-fantastic exhaust fans then your system will get hot quickly. You'll be blowing hot air from the CPU all over the motherboard.
Now this isnt such a great problem at idle temperatures, and could be nice in some ways, since your CPU will stay dead cold and your fans will barely move. However, at load, your CPU may be running at 50C (assuming a high overclock, for AMD - even higher for Intel). Now I can tell you from experience that the Corsair is VERY good at moving that heat from your CPU to the radiator, and if you put your hand over the exhaust from it it's very hot. The thought of this blowing all over my motherboard, RAM, Graphics cards makes me cringe, it just seems so counterintuitive.
In terms of what you notice - intake will yield a couple of degrees better temperature, although really depends on the hardware in your system. If you have lots of graphics cards it's going to increase this difference.
The personal feelings of myself and most people in this forum are to ignore Corsairs advice, and configure the fan as EXHAUST. Note that we also see big improvements in temperatures when you use a push/pull setup.
Here is a blog directly from Corsair, and includes some of the testing they did on Push/Pull_"

Here's mine and the fans aren't that bright in real life lol


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Hello people.

I need your urgent recommendation.

Right now I have 2 Xigmatek push/pull with the H50 radiator. They look cool, but they don't push much air sadly.

So I was planning to buy 2 of these:

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/...0mm::7293.html

Do you recommend them? Are they very loud compared to my Xigmatek ??

Get some ear plugs!

I can however suggest these.
http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/...rpm::4268.html


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Would you recommend me having it as ( push/pull ) intake or exhaust?

Here's my PC:



The first fan on H50 rad is the stock H50 and then the Xigmatek, they're exhausting off the case.

That looks like my HAF932.. Like others have said try it both ways,
but for me: that case and 2 5870s liked exhaust better.


----------



## Frosty88

So guys, I've been contemplating a H50 over my Mugen 2 just for the cleaner look and maybe slightly cooler temps. I've heard they aren't as efficient on AMD chips as opposed to intel's. Any truth to this?


----------



## buste2

I believe AMD chips are idling in the low 30's compared to Intel's high 30's low 40's


----------



## Frosty88

Quote:


Originally Posted by *buste2* 
I believe AMD chips are idling in the low 30's compared to Intel's high 30's low 40's

I wonder what kind of temps I'd be looking at then. I'm currently idling around 33-34 and loading at 50 or so.


----------



## mmx+

So I'm planning on ordering a H50 to replace my Xigmatek HDT-S963, and I'm wondering the best way to mount it. In my Lian-Li case, the back fan is supposed to be intake, so I'm set here. Do I want (arrow indicate air direction) <-fan<-shroud<-rad<-case<- or <-rad<-shroud<-fan<-case<-?
Also, how much of a difference does an additional fan make (I don't plan on running the fans at maximum speed....something that balances temperatures and noise)


----------



## buste2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Frosty88* 
I wonder what kind of temps I'd be looking at then. I'm currently idling around 33-34 and loading at 50 or so.

Probably 2-3 degrees difference? I would love to have those temps lol


----------



## Frosty88

Quote:


Originally Posted by *buste2* 
Probably 2-3 degrees difference? I would love to have those temps lol

Yeah, they're pretty good for a $35-$40 air cooler.









My only beef with the Mugen 2 is it's shear size. The thing is frigging huge! The H50 would run me $60 CDN but maybe it's better I save my money and make the jump to a full WC setup in a year or two.

Thanks for the help!


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Frosty88*


Yeah, they're pretty good for a $35-$40 air cooler.









My only beef with the Mugen 2 is it's shear size. The thing is frigging huge! The H50 would run me $60 CDN but maybe it's better I save my money and make the jump to a full WC setup in a year or two.

Thanks for the help!


if those are your OCed temps, I think you're fine as you set for now, I'd wait till you got a chip that needs the extra cooling capabilities..

The H50 does not really start to shine till the temps get up and it is drawing the heat away and out of your case (in exhaust setup obviously)


----------



## johnim

Can i join i have 2 but only have pics of 1 so far

this is my gaming rig in sig








corsair h50-1








2 x zotac 260gtx









my main rig


----------



## illestdomer2005

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SperVxo* 
I dont know how you have your fan setup. But having 2 fans might do 5 degrees. It did for me anyway. And changing from outake to intake made a few degrees even more. Turning the rad upside down made 2 degrees for me.

I did have an IMC Voltage of 1.35. Asus own way of clocking =P Turned that one down to 1.2V and there goes another 4 Degrees =P

I have my setup with the stock fan pulling air from outside the case over the rad. My case is a HAF 932 with all of the stock 230mm fans so there's a turbine that should be pulling that warm air up and out of the case.

I guess I might be a bit confused on the nomenclature (intake vs exhaust). I assume that intake is when you're pulling air from outside the case and blowing it over the radiator; whereas, exhaust is where you're pulling air from inside the case over the radiator and out the case...?

In any event, I had heard about the gentle typhoon fans and want to try those as soon as Newegg has them stocked again. I'll post pics when I can, but it's a pretty clean setup and pretty quiet. I just wonder if it's too quiet because insufficient air is blowing over the radiator...

My other concern was with the extra twisting I was putting on the pump/block unit in trying to get it under the teeth of the retention ring. I hope I didn't render the TIM ineffective.


----------



## illestdomer2005

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kand* 
I bet he's using the stock fan included with the H50. :3

Pics please?









I said I was using the stock fan









Yes, I will have pics later. I am hoping that it's just the crappy stock fan that's the problem...


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *illestdomer2005* 
I have my setup with the stock fan pulling air from outside the case over the rad. My case is a HAF 932 with all of the stock 230mm fans so there's a turbine that should be pulling that warm air up and out of the case.

I guess I might be a bit confused on the nomenclature (intake vs exhaust). I assume that intake is when you're pulling air from outside the case and blowing it over the radiator; whereas, exhaust is where you're pulling air from inside the case over the radiator and out the case...?

In any event, I had heard about the gentle typhoon fans and want to try those as soon as Newegg has them stocked again. I'll post pics when I can, but it's a pretty clean setup and pretty quiet. I just wonder if it's too quiet because insufficient air is blowing over the radiator...

My other concern was with the extra twisting I was putting on the pump/block unit in trying to get it under the teeth of the retention ring. I hope I didn't render the TIM ineffective.

You're not confused, that's how intake and exhaust work. I'd read about them on Killhouse's opening post.

I wouldn't wait for Newegg as they won't have them for another 10 days. I'd just get them from Performance PC's instead for $1 more shipping. That way they come sleeved








http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24749


----------



## cjc75

Got three more R4's on order finally.

Two of them will be going on the H50; and the last one will be added to the side panel of my Storm Scout. I got lucky, Microcenter near me was sold out of all their R4's; and Newegg is suddenly sold out of all their R4 Red LED versions... and both places told me they didn't expect any new stock for quite awhile...

So ended up ordering from Performance PC; which is actually just 2 days south of me! So I should have my H50 ready, and installed by this weekend!

Now if I can just find my old Camera and figure out how to make it shoot clear pics instead of fuzzy ones! Lol


----------



## bynext

Hi guys i wanna mod my h50 with 2x 120mm radiators, but what the best coolant should i use ???

thank you.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mmx+* 
So I'm planning on ordering a H50 to replace my Xigmatek HDT-S963, and I'm wondering the best way to mount it. In my Lian-Li case, the back fan is supposed to be intake, so I'm set here. Do I want (arrow indicate air direction) <-fan<-shroud<-rad<-case<- or <-rad<-shroud<-fan<-case<-?
Also, how much of a difference does an additional fan make (I don't plan on running the fans at maximum speed....something that balances temperatures and noise)

Sup dude.

With the H50 most people get better temps with it is exhaust I would say. However, some get better temps with intake. I suggest you try both ways and see what works better for you. For me, a 2nd fan helped me shave off about 2-3Âºc at full blast. What fans you plan on using on it?


----------



## mmx+

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Sup dude.

With the H50 most people get better temps with it is exhaust I would say. However, some get better temps with intake. I suggest you try both ways and see what works better for you. For me, a 2nd fan helped me shave off about 2-3Âºc at full blast. What fans you plan on using on it?

So you're saying that "pull" is better?

I'd be using the fan that comes with the H50 and then the one that I pulled out of the Silverstone Sugo SG05 I had...it's almost silent, and moves a decent amount of air. I only have one shroud (came from a buddy who broke one of his fans and was going to toss it), so I could only have a shroud for the "pull" fan or the "push" fan...not both









EDIT: Weren't you running an H50 on your X4 965?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mmx+* 
So you're saying that "pull" is better?

I'd be using the fan that comes with the H50 and then the one that I pulled out of the Silverstone Sugo SG05 I had...it's almost silent, and moves a decent amount of air. I only have one shroud (came from a buddy who broke one of his fans and was going to toss it), so I could only have a shroud for the "pull" fan or the "push" fan...not both









EDIT: Weren't you running an H50 on your X4 965?

I sure was, I traded it for a rad and going to piece together a full loop for my upcoming build.

I at least had better temps when exhausting. A shroud does help, however if I had to choose, I'd put the shroud on the push fan.


----------



## mmx+

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
I sure was, I traded it for a rad and going to piece together a full loop for my upcoming build.

I at least had better temps when exhausting. A shroud does help, however if I had to choose, I'd put the shroud on the push fan.

Sounds good, thanks!
I don't know when I'll be ordering, I'm waiting on my friend to buy my HD5670 so I'll have the funds.
BTW, I PM'ed W1zz @ TPU and I'm going to be writing a review of the H50 for the main site...


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mmx+* 
Sounds good, thanks!
I don't know when I'll be ordering, I'm waiting on my friend to buy my HD5670 so I'll have the funds.
BTW, I PM'ed W1zz @ TPU and I'm going to be writing a review of the H50 for the main site...









HA, that's awesome bro, should be fun for you


----------



## illestdomer2005

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84* 
You're not confused, that's how intake and exhaust work. I'd read about them on Killhouse's opening post.

I wouldn't wait for Newegg as they won't have them for another 10 days. I'd just get them from Performance PC's instead for $1 more shipping. That way they come sleeved








http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24749

Thanks, Jocelyn...I actually already placed that order









I'll do some more x264 encoding tonight and can get a read on the temps at full load. I tightened the screws on the retention ring but used a pretty low torque screwdriver; so, I don't think it was too much. I'm hoping that helps a few degrees plus the new fans in a couple of days







I'll try inverting the rad and see whether intake or exhaust works better.


----------



## djsi38t

Ordered mine today ....Hoping for better temps.Will be nice to quiet this baby down a bit too.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bynext*


Hi guys i wanna mod my h50 with 2x 120mm radiators, but what the best coolant should i use ???

thank you.


Some of the guys over on the water cooling thread suggest this...

Coolant: distilled water and 2 drops of pt nuke

one is for just distilled other is used with U/v dye
http://search.store.yahoo.net/cgi-bi...uery=pt%20nuke

or

Fluid XP+ Distilled water
http://www.frozencpu.com/brands/brand/b47/Fluid_XP.html

Coolant, i guess will be a little like TIM... everyone will have an opinion


----------



## Rampant

Forgive me for not reading the full 691 pages but does anyone know if the pump would have sufficient power if I added a northbridge and maybe a mosfet cooler into the loop?


----------



## Prugor

Couldnt hurt to try. But it probably wont have enough power, unless the flow restriction from the added blocks is too high.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rampant* 
Forgive me for not reading the full 691 pages but does anyone know if the pump would have sufficient power if I added a northbridge and maybe a mosfet cooler into the loop?

There has been peeps that have added more components to the loop with some decent results but I wouldn't recommend it. You can probably piece together a loop from used parts for about $100-$120. Good luck.


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rampant*


Forgive me for not reading the full 691 pages but does anyone know if the pump would have sufficient power if I added a northbridge and maybe a mosfet cooler into the loop?


Well, on the first page is some links to some hefty mods and how to's
for the type of info you are looking for, I really do suggest reading threw the entire thread..

Yea, it takes a long time, but I have read every page in this thread, some more than once lol.


----------



## rck1984

Got my h50:










Also ordered two Gentle Typhoon's AP-15's for about 30$ inc. shipping, they should arrive in a day or two as well, got some old 120mm fans at home to make 2 shrouds of.
That should lower my CPU temps by quite a bit i guess?

Considering i have a Coolermaster TX3 installed on my i5 750 now.


----------



## Gamer911TT

GAHHH, **** BestBuy. So I check their website to see if they have any H50 locally. It sais they do for $79.99. I got into the store and guess what...there aren't any... I check back today and noticed that apparently the item is now on sale for $59.99. So they got the liberty of changing the cost to refelcect the new sales price even though they never got any more H50s in (and it's been a few weeks). W....T...F?!?!?









F***ing bastards!!!


----------



## candy_van

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rck1984* 
Got my h50:
Also ordered two Gentle Typhoon's AP-15's for about 30$ inc. shipping, they should arrive in a day or two as well, got some old 120mm fans at home to make 2 shrouds of.
That should lower my CPU temps by quite a bit i guess?

Considering i have a Coolermaster TX3 installed on my i5 750 now.

Yep, should do quite nicely, got the same setup myself sans shrouds and I'm quite pleased with it's performance: right on par with my Mega and much less space


----------



## richie_2010

hi guys, my noctua nf-p12 fans turned up today and ive installed them as exaust, is the rad ok being upside down (pipes at top) or should it be other way round. ive had to do it like this or my sound card wont fit


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


Originally Posted by *candy_van* 
Yep, should do quite nicely, got the same setup myself sans shrouds and I'm quite pleased with it's performance: right on par with my Mega and much less space









Nice one, can u give me a indication of what ur temps are on 4Ghz, since thats my goal as well on my i5 750. mention your ambient as well pretty please









Also how is the noise-level? and are u using a fancontroller on the GT's?
Cant find any vid about 2 GT's in P/P.


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *richie_2010* 
hi guys, my noctua nf-p12 fans turned up today and ive installed them as exaust, is the rad ok being upside down (pipes at top) or should it be other way round. ive had to do it like this or my sound card wont fit

It doesn't matter which way they're oriented.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *rck1984* 
Nice one, can u give me a indication of what ur temps are on 4Ghz, since thats my goal as well on my i5 750. mention your ambient as well pretty please









Also how is the noise-level? and are u using a fancontroller on the GT's?
Cant find any vid about 2 GT's in P/P.

I'm using GT AP-15's on full blast and they're very quiet. Ambient Temps 28-33C depending on which core. Temps max out around 71C with LinX/IBT and 67C with Prime95. I think my case also attributes to keeping my temps down.


----------



## richie_2010

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84* 
It doesn't matter which way they're oriented.









cheers, least aint got worry bout that.


----------



## cjc75

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gamer911TT* 
GAHHH, **** BestBuy. So I check their website to see if they have any H50 locally. It sais they do for $79.99. I got into the store and guess what...there aren't any... I check back today and noticed that apparently the item is now on sale for $59.99. So they got the liberty of changing the cost to refelcect the new sales price even though they never got any more H50s in (and it's been a few weeks). W....T...F?!?!?









F***ing bastards!!!









It usually helps to click that little "Check Stores" link and put in your Zip Code. It will tell you if any stores near you have any "in stock" ... otherwise, something like this is typically an "Online Only" item even though it may not actually state this on the product page.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84*


It doesn't matter which way they're oriented.









I'm using GT AP-15's on full blast and they're very quiet. Ambient Temps 28-33C depending on which core. Temps max out around 71C with LinX/IBT and 67C with Prime95. I think my case also attributes to keeping my temps down.










Cheers, nice temps







I am using a HAF 922, guess that my case would not be the "bottleneck" here. There is pretty much air going around in there.

EDIT: Missread


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rck1984*


Cheers, nice temps







I am using a HAF 922, guess that my case would not be the "bottleneck" here. There is pretty much air going around in there.

EDIT: Missread


Let me know if you idle lower running @ 4.0. I'm interested








I just know I dropped about 7-8 degrees under load going from a 902 to the FT02.


----------



## candy_van

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rck1984*


Nice one, can u give me a indication of what ur temps are on 4Ghz, since thats my goal as well on my i5 750. mention your ambient as well pretty please









Also how is the noise-level? and are u using a fancontroller on the GT's?
Cant find any vid about 2 GT's in P/P.


With sugar on top?









Around 26-27c ambient last time ran P95 max load was ~66, idle was ~34c, still need to do a LinX run, but should be on par with what was mentioned above.
(Not that it maters, but it's been a bit cooler the past few days so I sit at 30-32c)

Fans are quiet to me (much more so than my 1650rpm Yates were); running them full blast w/o a controller.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84*


Let me know if you idle lower running @ 4.0. I'm interested








I just know I dropped about 7-8 degrees under load going from a 902 to the FT02.


Will do! Still in Stockholm right now, heading back home next week and will do some tests, ill keep you informed


----------



## rck1984

Quote:



Originally Posted by *candy_van*


With sugar on top?









Around 26-27c ambient last time ran P95 max load was ~66, idle was ~34c, still need to do a LinX run, but should be on par with what was mentioned above.
(Not that it maters, but it's been a bit cooler the past few days so I sit at 30-32c)

Fans are quiet to me (much more so than my 1650rpm Yates were); running them full blast w/o a controller.


Those are nice temps, so it will be high 60's to low 70's, thats a hell lot better then my current TX3, which goes easily over 80c, even on 3.7Ghz.. My room ambient is usually around 25c, looking forward on installing it and doing some tests.

I dont have a controller (yet) neither.. Thinking of buying one later on tho, glad those GT's are kind of quiet allready without.

You guys are using shrouds btw? sorry if i missed it..


----------



## Jocelyn84

I've tried shrouds, but considering how it looks in terms of aesthetics, its just not worth the 1-2 degrees you lose. 
That's just my opinion









I actually have two Gelid Wing PWM LED fans arriving today that I wanna test out against the AP-15's, so I'll let everyone know how that goes too. I plan on running 3.6Ghz 24/7 from now on, mainly because I'm usually doing work related stuff, not gaming. I like the idea of fans not running at full when the CPU's not being overly utilized.
There aren't any reviews of them anywhere, but I'm hoping the 2.66 static pressure rating holds up lol
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27555


----------



## rck1984

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84*


I've tried shrouds, but considering how it looks in terms of aesthetics, its just not worth the 1-2 degrees you lose. 
That's just my opinion









I actually have two Gelid Wing PWM LED fans arriving today that I wanna test out against the AP-15's, so I'll let everyone know how that goes too. I plan on running 3.6Ghz 24/7 from now on, mainly because I'm usually doing work related stuff, not gaming. I like the idea of fans not running at full when the CPU's not being overly utilized.
There aren't any reviews of them anywhere, but I'm hoping the 2.66 static pressure rating holds up lol
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27555


I see your point, ill try it myself i guess.. Keep us informed about the Gelid vs GT's


----------



## ryman546

WElllll....

I ordered mine!


----------



## PCSarge

lol @ 2.66 static pressure CM R4s have 3.04 static pressure, but then again, how accurate can these companies be? they may beef it up cause they want our money


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
lol @ 2.66 static pressure CM R4s have 3.04 static pressure, but then again, how accurate can these companies be? they may beef it up cause they want our money

This is true, but R4's are loud as hell. At least Gelid's not claiming 90 CFM @ 19dBA.
Again I got these because they're PWM fans (Auto RPM). That's part of the reason they cost as much as they do. I've read raving reviews of the regular Gelid UV Wings so I'm sure these will do well.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84* 
This is true, but R4's are loud as hell. At least Gelid's not claiming 90 CFM @ 19dBA.
Again I got these because they're PWM fans (Auto RPM). That's part of the reason they cost as much as they do. I've read raving reviews of the regular Gelid UV Wings so I'm sure these will do well.

At least on my Mobo I found it very easy to control chassis fan speed using Speedfan. In Auto mode it can control fan speed based on cpu or core temp. Just connect the GTs to chassis fan connectors or use a Y cable if you don't have enough.


----------



## cjc75

Speaking of these R4's of ours...

I have an old Vantec Nexus Speed Controller...

I think it only supported 3 fans, plus had a forth knob for controlling a noise activated "flicker" on any additional lights added to the case...

It was, one of those "cool" things to have 6 years ago.

Now its just sitting on a shelf, collecting dust.

I'm wondering if it might not be a bad idea to use it with the fans on my H50; presuming I can rig it into my new Storm Scout... or since its so old would it not be powerful enough for them?


----------



## tdesbien31

Add me guys


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
At least on my Mobo I found it very easy to control chassis fan speed using Speedfan. In Auto mode it can control fan speed based on cpu or core temp. Just connect the GTs to chassis fan connectors or use a Y cable if you don't have enough.

Nah I'm liking these Gelid Wing LED PWM's.
I'm often in OSx86 for work, not always Windows, so the Speedfan option won't work for me. They're a tad bit louder than the typhoons, but I won't be running them on full unless I'm gaming. They're also running IBT about 4 degrees cooler than my GT's.


----------



## Kand

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cjc75* 
Speaking of these R4's of ours...

I have an old Vantec Nexus Speed Controller...

I think it only supported 3 fans, plus had a forth knob for controlling a noise activated "flicker" on any additional lights added to the case...

It was, one of those "cool" things to have 6 years ago.

Now its just sitting on a shelf, collecting dust.

I'm wondering if it might not be a bad idea to use it with the fans on my H50; presuming I can rig it into my new Storm Scout... or since its so old would it not be powerful enough for them?

It should work! I'm using a Nexus NXP-201 on my fans. And that's a:

2 Scythe Kaze Jyuni
2 Antec three speed fans (120mm and 140mm)
and the DC San Ace 109p that I use to blow from my H50's radiator. It works wonders, turning it down to 50% before going to bed, setting aside the capacitor buzz that's been common in this particular model.

At least I no longer have to wake up with pierced eardrums.


----------



## CULLEN

I just got my Corsair H50, is there any mod you'd recommend to do before I mount it? =)


----------



## Kand

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CULLEN* 
I just got my Corsair H50, is there any mod you'd recommend to do before I mount it? =)

Use the fans you have on your Megahalems? Probably goes without saying.. XD


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CULLEN* 
I just got my Corsair H50, is there any mod you'd recommend to do before I mount it? =)

Take a look at some of the links on the 1st page.







They definitely inspired me!


----------



## bynext

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Some of the guys over on the water cooling thread suggest this...

Coolant: distilled water and 2 drops of pt nuke

one is for just distilled other is used with U/v dye
http://search.store.yahoo.net/cgi-bi...uery=pt%20nuke

or

Fluid XP+ Distilled water
http://www.frozencpu.com/brands/brand/b47/Fluid_XP.html

Coolant, i guess will be a little like TIM... everyone will have an opinion










distilled water + 2 drops of pt nuke = better choice ? but what about algae ???


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bynext* 
distilled water + 2 drops of pt nuke = better choice ? but what about algae ???

PT nuke is a Biocide that kills algae.


----------



## Iggy0828

Hello all. I've been considering upgrading to this cooler. I just want to know if I'm going to see any improvements over what I already have. As my sig rig says I'm running a Phenom II x2 555 BE running at 4.0 GHz. My idle temp is 23C and under load 48C with an ambient temp of 20C.


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Iggy0828*


Hello all. I've been considering upgrading to this cooler. I just want to know if I'm going to see any improvements over what I already have. As my sig rig says I'm running a Phenom II x2 555 BE running at 4.0 GHz. My idle temp is 23C and under load 48C with an ambient temp of 20C.


What is the temp range on your Phenom?
those are decent temps and the H50 really starts to shine at upper temps for instance, it may not help folks much on their idle temps but they see a nice improvement on the highend... just don't know how much you will see when you're not that high to start with.


----------



## Iggy0828

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killer01ws6*


What is the temp range on your Phenom?
those are decent temps and the H50 really starts to shine at upper temps for instance, it may not help folks much on their idle temps but they see a nice improvement on the highend... just don't know how much you will see when you're not that high to start with.


ranges from 23C idle, 47C load, and most of the time it's at 30 to 34C.


----------



## whoisron

hey guys if i plan to use two san ace fans as P/P setup does anyone know what screw size's / washers I need to buy so it fits onto the rad? I don't feel like using paperclips or rubber bands. I want it to look nice. 
Thanks.

Also was wondering is having 2 san ace fans overkill? I think P/P is only really useful if you have low static pressure fans. But then again I plan to undervolt the San Aces so they are quiet. Thanks


----------



## spacegoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *whoisron*


hey guys if i plan to use two san ace fans as P/P setup does anyone know what screw size's / washers I need to buy so it fits onto the rad? I don't feel like using paperclips or rubber bands. I want it to look nice. 
Thanks.

Also was wondering is having 2 san ace fans overkill? I think P/P is only really useful if you have low static pressure fans. But then again I plan to undervolt the San Aces so they are quiet. Thanks


I am using some black thumb screws like these:


I have x2 38mm Panaflo fans on my set up. Thumb screws fit perfectly and are easy to work with. And no, 2 San Ace fans are not overkill.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
I realized that having my ultra kaze 3000 at the highest rpm doesnt benefit me over having at 2000/2200 rpm. Im wondering if the rad is built for low rpm/cfm

Higher airflow don't give better results? I was thinking about replacing the stock Corsair 59CFM fan with Scythe "Slipstream" 110CFM.

I don't know now...

Quote:

i7 920 @ 4Ghz 1.25v HT on, Turbo off


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Is a antec tricool fan that comes with the antec 900 case better than the fan that comes with the h50? I have 1 antec fan and the stock h50 doing a push pull right now, thinking of using 2 tricools.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demon_panda*


how do u mont it


Wow this thread moves fast.....I put two screws into each shroud from one side of the drive bays (i.e. through the holes in the drive bays) So a total of four screws which holds it very well even though it is just on one side. Others on here have used ties as well to suspend the whole thing from both sides...I like my system better. Hope that helps.


----------



## ToxicAdam

http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1025/2/

Quote:



The kit also comes with a single 7-blade 120x120x25mm cooling fan that runs at 1700RPM. After contacting the engineers at Corsair we were informed that the fan was sourced from well known cooling fan manufacturer Akasa. The model AK174CB-4BLB cooling fan has a 50,000 hour life span and a twin ball bearing design. This fan consumes 2.2W when running at 1700RPM and has a noise level of 29.75 dB(A). The max airflow is 59.05CFM with a static pressure of 3.57mm H20.


So Corsair's H50 fan is the Akasa AK174CB-4BLB.

Nothing special about that.


----------



## whoisron

uh hrm so noone answered me what size screws would i be needing to get if i want to use screws to screw in my san ace fan into the rad? i don't think the 6 1/2 screw / washer will work right? can someone tell me what dimension screws I need to get? thanks


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *whoisron*


uh hrm so noone answered me what size screws would i be needing to get if i want to use screws to screw in my san ace fan into the rad? i don't think the 6 1/2 screw / washer will work right? can someone tell me what dimension screws I need to get? thanks


http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=83550

I'm sure you can find your answer there.


----------



## MegaTherion

I've got my 2x 3k Ultra Kaze's setup on my H50 in push/pull config exhausting and hitting temps of 56-57C running prime95 large FFT's. It almost seems like I was getting the same temps with my 2k rpm Antec nine hundred stock fans in the same config.









TIM is Shin Etsu G751. I've even reapplied the TIM just in case that was the issue, but getting the same results.

Should I be getting better temps than this? CPU is PhII 965BE with a simple overclock of 19.5x multiplier with 1.5 volts running to the CPU.

Ambient temps are at 28c.

Fan setup is 2x Antec 120mm fans pulling cool air into the chassis, 200mm fan up top exhausting, then the 2x ultra kaze's on the radiator exhausting.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MegaTherion* 
Ambient temps are at 28c.

82.4 degrees

Are you naked?!

Damn its hot in there.

I read over a certain fan speed it doesn't cool anymore. 3000rpm vs 2000rpm

As for your temps I think your ambient temps are a major factor here.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


82.4 degrees

Are you naked?!

Damn its hot in there.

I read over a certain fan speed it doesn't cool anymore. 3000rpm vs 2000rpm

As for your temps I think your ambient temps are a major factor here.


Yikes, that seems pretty darn hot!


----------



## Kand

That guy's got nothing on my ambient temps! 36c! D: <


----------



## ImmortalKenny

Just got my H50


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Hello people.

I need your urgent recommendation.

Right now I have 2 Xigmatek push/pull with the H50 radiator. They look cool, but they don't push much air sadly.

So I was planning to buy 2 of these:

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/...0mm::7293.html

Do you recommend them? Are they very loud compared to my Xigmatek ??

They are not that loud, i'm using 2 at full speed, using shrouds to eliminate turbulance/dead spot and edge drag.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spacegoast* 
They are very loud, but if you put them on a fan controller you can turn them down at any time. They work fine for me







. Many people report these have a humming/buzzing noise when you undervolt them, but not everyone has this problem. I like them only because they are inexpensive and move lots of air.

Agreed, they push 133Cfm and are Cheap like 6 bucks

Quote:


Originally Posted by *illestdomer2005* 
I am thoroughly unimpressed with the temps I am seeing, but I am open to the fact that I could've done something wrong or just have too high expectations...

I just built a new i7 rig 4 days ago. I have my i7 920 OC'ed to 4GHz w/HT at a voltage of 1.28125. Under 100% load on LinX, I was getting in the upper 80s! I am using the stock fan in a HAF 932 case. Needless to say, I am pretty disappointed.

Now, when I initially installed the "block" on the CPU, the retention ring was too tight; so, I tried to keep the block pressed against the CPU, but it might not have maintained full contact the entire time; so, maybe the thermal pad didn't "seat" properly? I don't know. In any event, I am more than a little bummed.

Tyr intake/outake front/rear there is many configs, specific to everyones case/airflow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Demon_panda* 
pushpull with good fans Scythe GentleTyphoon or Noctua NF-P12 for low noise but i think the Scythe GentleTyphoon has 3000rpm models it will drop ur temps.

UltraKaze are beast!



Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Would you recommend me having it as ( push/pull ) intake or exhaust?

Here's my PC:

The first fan on H50 rad is the stock H50 and then the Xigmatek, they're exhausting off the case.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *rck1984* 
Nice one, can u give me a indication of what ur temps are on 4Ghz, since thats my goal as well on my i5 750. mention your ambient as well pretty please









Also how is the noise-level? and are u using a fancontroller on the GT's?
Cant find any vid about 2 GT's in P/P.

Hey man, the i5-750 is easy to get to 4ghz and with a h-50 temps can look like this!



Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84* 
It doesn't matter which way they're oriented.









I'm using GT AP-15's on full blast and they're very quiet. Ambient Temps 28-33C depending on which core. Temps max out around 71C with LinX/IBT and 67C with Prime95. I think my case also attributes to keeping my temps down.










Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84* 
Let me know if you idle lower running @ 4.0. I'm interested








I just know I dropped about 7-8 degrees under load going from a 902 to the FT02.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *candy_van* 
With sugar on top?









Around 26-27c ambient last time ran P95 max load was ~66, idle was ~34c, still need to do a LinX run, but should be on par with what was mentioned above.
(Not that it maters, but it's been a bit cooler the past few days so I sit at 30-32c)

Fans are quiet to me (much more so than my 1650rpm Yates were); running them full blast w/o a controller.

Nice temps for Yates!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rck1984* 
Those are nice temps, so it will be high 60's to low 70's, thats a hell lot better then my current TX3, which goes easily over 80c, even on 3.7Ghz.. My room ambient is usually around 25c, looking forward on installing it and doing some tests.

I dont have a controller (yet) neither.. Thinking of buying one later on tho, glad those GT's are kind of quiet allready without.

You guys are using shrouds btw? sorry if i missed it..

Yeah and they make a BIG Difference!!



Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
82.4 degrees

Are you naked?!

Damn its hot in there.

I read over a certain fan speed it doesn't cool anymore. 3000rpm vs 2000rpm

As for your temps I think your ambient temps are a major factor here.

2-3k is a noticable difference if you have shrouds it makes lots of difference.

Having the fans too close to the rad creates and dead spot, shrouds lift the fan off the fins and allow for air to be pulled/pushed along a channel like a mini wind tunnel, i can gaurentee that shrouds will drop your temps!


----------



## SperVxo

Hm i want 2 of those shrouds. Dont have any 120mm Fan to spare though. And cant find a store here in sweden who does sell it either =P

Im still waiting for my H50 to be delivered. I saw the time scheme for my H50 to be Confirmed for RMA. It took 10 mins and they tested my old one. Tested a new one before shipping it to me. Hopefully tomorrow i get it.

Anyhow. Because it failed so early i got 1 extra 140mm Blue led fan for compensation =P I really wanted 1 for extra intake.

So i got 2x140 intake and 2x140 outake top. I probably going to mount the new H50 as an exhaust in the back. Or try mounting it as an intake in the front behind the new 140mm fan. I guess friday afternoon is booked for tweaking =)


----------



## dafour

At how many rpm is the pump running from everyone?Mines at 1400,is this normal?I got the first model H50.


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dafour* 
At how many rpm is the pump running from everyone?Mines at 1400,is this normal?I got the first model H50.

I think that's right, but its recommended that you plug the pump into the psu for a continual speed,


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


2-3k is a noticable difference if you have shrouds it makes lots of difference.

Having the fans too close to the rad creates and dead spot, shrouds lift the fan off the fins and allow for air to be pulled/pushed along a channel like a mini wind tunnel, i can gaurentee that shrouds will drop your temps!


I see what you mean by "dead spot" a shroud would help with that.

A high static pressure fan with good CFM is what people need on rads.

Ultra Kaze's are bit much though, lol


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dafour*


At how many rpm is the pump running from everyone?Mines at 1400,is this normal?I got the first model H50.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


I see what you mean by "dead spot" a shroud would help with that.

A high static pressure fan with good CFM is what people need on rads.

Ultra Kaze's are bit much though, lol


Corrected:







YouTube- 2xDelta Fans - VERY LOUD!!
I made this video to illustrate the noise!

Ultra Kaze is just fine


----------



## Defiler

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ImmortalKenny*












Call me crazy (you're crazy!) but there is something about this picture that I think is just beautiful.


----------



## Prugor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ImmortalKenny*


Just got my H50




















Types on getting good clear and crisp pictures with a digital camera? I have a Kodak MD863 and the pictures I take with it inside my house and generally anything of my computer and terrible. They appear grainy or way too dark.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChosenLord*


Corrected: YouTube- 2xDelta Fans - VERY LOUD!!

I made this video to illustrate the noise!

Ultra Kaze is just fine


People swear by gentle typhoons static pressure but the fact of the matter is they're not that great..










You can get Delta fans that have better static pressure/ CFM and they're not loud.. I'm talking 32dba.

http://www.delta.com.tw/product/cp/d...0x120x25mm.pdf

The gentle typhoons are 28dBA not a big difference at all in noise.


----------



## ToxicAdam

In related note..

I just picked up Delta's AFB1212M

Specs:

*Speed* > 2200rpm [Gentle Typhoons 1850rpm]

Maximum Air Flow

*CFM* > 73.84 [Gentle Typhoons 58.0]

Maximum Air Pressure:

*mmH2O* > 5.15 [Gentle Typhoons 1.65]

*IN H2O* > 0.203 [Gentle Typhoons 0.081]

Noise:

*dB-A* > 35.5 [Gentle Typhoons 28dba] [ULTRA KAZE 45dba]










Corsair stock Akasa fan has a static pressure of 3.57mm H20. Not too shabby! That's better than the Scythe's Gentle Typhoons and Slipstream fans.

I'm going to gut another 120mm fan to use as a shroud. This should make a nice little wind tunnel with no dead spots.

Yes, only one. Using a high static pressure fan there's no need for push and pull.


----------



## E46Johnny

I have read most off this thread now, and i am considering the H50 for my next system.

During the investigation inn how to optimaise the performance off the H50 i found some good test information about fans and shrouds.

Link: http://martin.skinneelabs.com/Radiat...ng-Review.html

I am also considering ann air box instead off a round shroud for optimizing the surface off the rad.
Like this one: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/92..._Acrylic_.html

Fore me this picture says it all: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/im...ml?id=7C6RWA4T

Is there anybody here thats tried to yous the H50 with the Tecnofront airbox inn push/pull config inn the Corsair 800D case.

If i can afford it, i will probably yous the Asus rampage III extreme mobo, ore Asus P6X58 premium mobo , intel i7 930 cpu, corsair dominator/dominator GT ram, and a 5850 or 5870 graphics card.


----------



## Magus2727

Usualy a shroud is square on the radiator mounting side and round only at the fan. a good shroud and an airbox will do the same thing...

Edit: I think that air box looks amazing, next order I place I may be picking me up two of those...


----------



## goliath27

Hi guys I was just wondering how you installed the radiator? If you mouse over the pump in this pic http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-me...e=UTF8&index=0 the guy says you should have the pump upside down so the radiator can be right side up or else you can get air bubbles.

I have mine setup exactly the opposite but haven't had those air bubble issues.


----------



## buste2

I had it installed both ways and didn't notice any difference. I actually had to switch it upside down due to my top panel blow hole.


----------



## Magus2727

Dont think it really matters, i think the bigest thing you should try to avoid is having the pump be the top most part. But I think alot of the air issues are more with a open loop system Corsair could be fancy in making these coolers and assemble them in the fluid such when they are sealed there are no water bubbles.... He may have gotten a bad product if he was having issues...


----------



## ryman546

Just got my H50 today and a new case. Thermaltake Element V. Deciding on where to put it.


----------



## marl

Anyone have theirs mounted on the top of their cases?

I'm curious to see if there's any improvements over having it placed on the rear. Kinda want to move it around, but I want to see if others have done so.


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Prugor*


Types on getting good clear and crisp pictures with a digital camera? I have a Kodak MD863 and the pictures I take with it inside my house and generally anything of my computer and terrible. They appear grainy or way too dark.


use low ISO levels and no flash. Make sure you have decent natural lighting and you should generally try to take pics of the camera on a solid surface (a tripod would be best) and use a 2 second timer to make sure you don't shake the camera as you take the shot.


----------



## cjc75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ImmortalKenny*


Just got my H50










And I would looove to know what Fan that is there? It looks like a Cooler Master 120mm R4?

I don't see the Rad though, is that fan mounted on the Rad or is the Rad outside the case?


----------



## Pings

For everyone looking for shrouds check *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink* out.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cjc75*


And I would looove to know what Fan that is there? It looks like a Cooler Master 120mm R4?

I don't see the Rad though, is that fan mounted on the Rad or is the Rad outside the case?


I'm pretty sure its a Xigmatek fan, I'd get some but they only do 1500 RPM models and they are getting abit common now. The Rad must be mounted in the front of the case or something.


----------



## TwwIX

Just got my Scythe Ultra Kaze's today. The H-50 came yesterday.

All i need is the appropriate screws for the push-pull configuration.
What size screws do i need to use again?


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marl*


Anyone have theirs mounted on the top of their cases?

I'm curious to see if there's any improvements over having it placed on the rear. Kinda want to move it around, but I want to see if others have done so.


Top fans are for exhaust because heat rises. It wouldn't be an ideal configuration.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwwIX*


Just got my Scythe Ultra Kaze's today. The H-50 came yesterday.

All i need is the appropriate screws for the push-pull configuration.
What size screws do i need to use again?


Most of us just use the four screws that come with it. Just put two screws on each side diagonally.


----------



## TwwIX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
Most of us just use the four screws that come with it. Just put two screws on each side diagonally.

Those screws are too short for 38mm fans.


----------



## whoisron

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TwwIX* 
Just got my Scythe Ultra Kaze's today. The H-50 came yesterday.

All i need is the appropriate screws for the push-pull configuration.
What size screws do i need to use again?

id like to know too i got two san aces coming soon


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TwwIX* 
Those screws are too short for 38mm fans.

ChosenLord should be able to help you with that.


----------



## whoisron

im thinking these are what we are looking for

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/71...42&id=MFF8XGhz


----------



## Lefty67

Edit: Not the TF2 thread


----------



## n8t1308

Hey guys! Well, sorry to say but im leaving the club







But I assure you its for a good reason....as you can see.....


















Cable management be damned haha


----------



## Evtron

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marl* 
Anyone have theirs mounted on the top of their cases?

I'm curious to see if there's any improvements over having it placed on the rear. Kinda want to move it around, but I want to see if others have done so.

Just thought I'd let you know that I have my H50 rad mounted at the top of my case using 2x GT-AP15's in push/pull exhaust - also it's sitting between 2x120mm 1200rpm Sharkoon Silent Eagle SE fans that are exhausting the case heat. Had to do this because I needed to rotate my 800D's rear fan for intake for better airflow.

running an i7-920 4Ghz HT/on at about 1.29v with ambients of about 25C

Idle I get about 38-42c across all cores
IBT after about an hour I get 72-73C on the hottest core

Also, I have 120mm fan in my drive bay as intake just for some reference.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *n8t1308*


Hey guys! Well, sorry to say but im leaving the club







But I assure you its for a good reason....as you can see.....

http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/r...tercooled2.jpg
http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/r...tercooled1.jpg
Cable management be damned haha


Well they call H50 the gateway drug... lol


----------



## Steview

Hey guys been busy updating my Scout with Hardware.









I've attached some pics.









Just added:









Intel SSD 80G X25M
Sunbeam Rheobus Extreme Fan Controller
2 - 120MM Scythe Ultra Kaze 3k Fans (H50)
3 - 120MM Scythe S-Flex SFF21F
1 - Red Cold Cathode
Resleeved some wiring which included all the new fans.


----------



## whoisron

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Steview* 
Hey guys been busy updating my Scout with Hardware.









I've attached some pics.









Just added:









Intel SSD 80G X25M
Sunbeam Rheobus Extreme Fan Controller
2 - 120MM Scythe Ultra Kaze 3k Fans (H50)
3 - 120MM Scythe S-Flex SFF21F
1 - Red Cold Cathode
Resleeved some wiring which included all the new fans.









very nice are you intake or exhaust? ^^
also those uktra kaze are 38mm fans right? what rpm are you running them at after you undervolted them?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *n8t1308* 
Hey guys! Well, sorry to say but im leaving the club







But I assure you its for a good reason....as you can see.....


















Cable management be damned haha

Before you go, you must tell me what kind of temps you're getting on your 965 C3 now compared to the H50. I'm pondering going full loop as well on my 965 C3 but only if the temp difference is great enough.


----------



## Chicken Patty

^^ Good question LOL


----------



## Steview

Whoisron, I'm running the Kaze's as exhaust, running at 1500 to 2K depending upon if I'm benching. I can still hit 3K but its too loud.


----------



## whoisron

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Steview* 
Whoisron, I'm running the Kaze's as exhaust, running at 1500 to 2K depending upon if I'm benching. I can still hit 3K but its too loud.









whats the lowest rpm the kaze can run at?







thanks.

what kind of screws did you use to screw into the rad? thanks.


----------



## Steview

I would think about 1K, but any lower and you are not going to move enough air through the rad.









Any 6-32 X 3/8 screw will work, you can buy at home depot or hardware store, I picked the ones in the pic up at Home Depot with the lock washers built into the screw.


----------



## n8t1308

Well my idle temps are running at about 25C and my load temps are about 43c so I'd say that's pretty freaking good lol and I went ghetto and just super glued the fans to my rad and screwed the fans into the top of my case with the provided adapter. I will definately try pushing my oc higher as I'm stable now with a ten hour prime95 stability test.


----------



## Steview

You can run the Kaze's at lower speed than 1K but I dont think they are effective.

Below is the Pic:


----------



## Steview

My temps double yours during benchmarking up to 85C, and I idle at 30c-34C.


----------



## staryoshi

I'm back in the club again. It'll be here on Saturday, pairing it with two 1850RPM Scythe GTs this time. Last time used 1450RPM models. Those are moving to the HDD bay


----------



## n8t1308

I thought something was wrong with my temps but I triple checked..... Although it is a 360 rad on top so I'm glad I didn't skimp on that


----------



## Demon_panda

i just overclock my i7 860 to 4hmz with a core voltage of 1.384v my temp 81c-84c 77c-87c that the spike temps i got a pushpull are my teamp to high? 25mins in prime 95
think i might of [email protected]#$ install of Thermal Compound it stock.. might go buy some mx-3 or mx-2


----------



## Steview

No, your temps look normal for the 860 these chips run hot especially with HT on, if you turn off HT in the bios you will drop 10C off your P95 temps. You can search other forums for the 860 temps.


----------



## Steview

Here's my settings and I max out at 85C (spike) during benchmarking with HT on.









See pic below:


----------



## whoisron

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Steview*


I would think about 1K, but any lower and you are not going to move enough air through the rad.









Any 6-32 X 3/8 screw will work, you can buy at home depot or hardware store, I picked the ones in the pic up at Home Depot with the lock washers built into the screw.










how would you compare the noise level compared to stock corsair fans at the same rpm? is the kaze louder or are they around same loudness?


----------



## Demon_panda

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Steview*


Here's my settings and I max out at 85C (spike) during benchmarking with HT on.









See pic below:










my IMC volt is low 1.21875.. bup it up? i drop my cpu v 1.375v


----------



## nasha

Hey guys ! I am a new owner of H50







... First time water cooling.. yes yes, I know its not something like real water cooling loop.. but it works for me









I have a question. Right now I am using stock fan and my temps are a bit high. So I am planning to get push and pull setup









What fans should I buy? I read about Scythe ULTRA KAZE, but I think they are too loud









any recommendations? and when I get the fans, how do I go about connecting them? since right now the fan is connected to 4-pin CPU socket









opinions. ?


----------



## ImmortalKenny

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nasha*


What fans should I buy? I read about Scythe ULTRA KAZE, but I think they are too loud









any recommendations? and when I get the fans, how do I go about connecting them? since right now the fan is connected to 4-pin CPU socket









opinions. ?


If you're going to get a high CFM 120x38mm fan, get a fan controller as well.


----------



## Steview

Whoisron, the Ultra Kaze's are definitely louder than the corsair's fans. But my temps dropped 5-10C with them, its a trade off more cooling = more noise. You can find other fans as many have in this forum but they are alot more expensive the the 9.00 for the Kaze's.

Demon Panda, I would raise the IMC and lower your Core Voltage in small increments, make sure you stress test after each change and watch your temps. You'll find the sweet spot where your voltage will lower and so will your temps while remaining stable.

See pic for my OC:


----------



## Demon_panda

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Steview*


Whoisron, the Ultra Kaze's are definitely louder than the corsair's fans. But my temps dropped 5-10C with them, its a trade off more cooling = more noise. You can find other fans as many have in this forum but they are alot more expensive the the 9.00 for the Kaze's.

Demon Panda, I would raise the IMC and lower your Core Voltage in small increments, make sure you stress test after each change and watch your temps. You'll find the sweet spot where your voltage will lower and so will your temps while remaining stable.

See pic for my OC:










how much can i raise the imc v?
Turbo Mode on? real nice oc man


----------



## Steview

I have my IMC set at 1.24V, the OS is stable at lower voltages but when I stress test at a lower voltage I get errors, especially in prime 95. Try raising your voltage step by step and run prime 95 upon each change, do this until you don't get anymore errors.


----------



## nasha

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ImmortalKenny* 
If you're going to get a high CFM 120x38mm fan, get a fan controller as well.

Something like this ?; http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-065-_-Product


----------



## ImmortalKenny

Sure.


----------



## buste2

FYI:

Anyone with GT fans that are having problems with the "humming" noise, this is due to your motherboard 3pin. We have done 3 tests and concluded that if you power them directly with a fan controller, the "humming" noise does not exist. It is 10x better having it powered through the fan controller directly. Give it a try!


----------



## Steview

I went with this:









http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811995016


----------



## nasha

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ImmortalKenny* 
Sure.

Thanks









and how about connecting the fans? right now the fan is connected to 4-pin CPU socket... If I get two Ultra Kaze, how should I connect them ?


----------



## ImmortalKenny

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nasha* 
Thanks









and how about connecting the fans? right now the fan is connected to 4-pin CPU socket... If I get two Ultra Kaze, how should I connect them ?









4-pin CPU socket? What?

The Kazes come with 3-pin connectors, which is what the fan controller uses, soooo...


----------



## nasha

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ImmortalKenny* 
4-pin CPU socket? What?

The Kazes come with 3-pin connectors, which is what the fan controller uses, soooo...

Oh I meant the 4-pin CPU Fan Power on motherboard....

But I think I got what you are saying...


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *buste2* 
FYI:

Anyone with GT fans that are having problems with the "humming" noise, this is due to your motherboard 3pin. We have done 3 tests and concluded that if you power them directly with a fan controller, the "humming" noise does not exist. It is 10x better having it powered through the fan controller directly. Give it a try!

Not that the light humming of the GT's were annoying, but I've _had_ them hooked up directly to my PSU in addition to my fan controller and they still hummed. My new fans are about the same noise and produce the same temps, but they're PWM.


----------



## nasha

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Steview* 
Hey guys been busy updating my Scout with Hardware.









I've attached some pics.









Just added:









Intel SSD 80G X25M
Sunbeam Rheobus Extreme Fan Controller
2 - 120MM Scythe Ultra Kaze 3k Fans (H50)
3 - 120MM Scythe S-Flex SFF21F
1 - Red Cold Cathode
Resleeved some wiring which included all the new fans.









Nice clean setup u got there Steview









and thanks for the info on the screws needed. Will pick up frm home depot tomorrow


----------



## ImmortalKenny

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nasha* 
Oh I meant the 4-pin CPU Fan Power on motherboard....

But I think I got what you are saying...

Don't use motherboard *fan connectors* for powerful fans like the Kazes. Why would it matter though if you'll be using a fan controller (which is what the fans plug into).


----------



## nasha

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ImmortalKenny* 
Don't use motherboard *fan connectors* for powerful fans like the Kazes. Why would it matter though if you'll be using a fan controller (which is what the fans plug into).

Yep got it... and ordered









Thanks


----------



## Steview

You can wire the fans like this:

..................................FAN
12V PS------FC----#1X
..................................FAN

X=Y:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-063-_-Product

1 Knob controls both fans simultaneously.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *buste2*


FYI:

Anyone with GT fans that are having problems with the "humming" noise, this is due to your motherboard 3pin. We have done 3 tests and concluded that if you power them directly with a fan controller, the "humming" noise does not exist. It is 10x better having it powered through the fan controller directly. Give it a try!


Do you believe the CPU fan header isn't supplying the GT with enough voltage?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ImmortalKenny*


Don't use motherboard *fan connectors* for powerful fans like the Kazes. Why would it matter though if you'll be using a fan controller (which is what the fans plug into).


Respectfully, why not?

Ive had my Ultra Kaze 2000s running off the CPU fan header and the Aux fan header for months now and there hasnt been an issue (that Im aware of).

Or, are you referring exclusively too Kaze 3000s?


----------



## scottath

2000rpm ones should be fine - 3k = no

you doing push pull i assume sethy.
what about push + shroud - anyone tried?

anyone got comparisons between different configs?
push/pull/push pull/inc shrouds ?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottath*


2000rpm ones should be fine - 3k = no

you doing push pull i assume sethy.
what about push + shroud - anyone tried?

anyone got comparisons between different configs?
push/pull/push pull/inc shrouds ?


Hey scottath!

Okay... comment was 3000k exclusive then









yep, that I am...

Push>shroud>rad>shroud>pull. (Intake)

Ive tried most of the combos and this one works for me.


----------



## chris14029

sorry if this is outa place but i just got this thing and i want to know what its filled with straight water or water with added stuff any one know?


----------



## pcnuttie

I seriously need to consider this but i don't have heat issues. I still haven't bought this yet LOL.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chris14029* 
sorry if this is outa place but i just got this thing and i want to know what its filled with straight water or water with added stuff any one know?

No, your at the right place... welcome









The liquid inside the H50 is distilled water with Propylene Glycol added to prevent corrosion and organic build-up.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCnuttie*
I seriously need to consider this but i don't have heat issues. I still haven't bought this yet LOL.

Will you stop dragging the chain and buy the damn thing Nuttie!


----------



## chris14029

sweet


----------



## ImmortalKenny

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Respectfully, why not?

Ive had my Ultra Kaze 2000s running off the CPU fan header and the Aux fan header for months now and there hasnt been an issue (that Im aware of).

Or, are you referring exclusively too Kaze 3000s?


I was sort of referring to the 3k's, but still, plugging fans into your motherboard is aesthetically bad (in my book) because wires are going everywhere to your motherboard, rather than a stable line off your PSU or fan controller.


----------



## Tirabytes

Mine has scratches already, is that telling me to buy another one? :S


----------



## oo0oolala

Hey all, new to the H50 thread. I have few questions regarding the push/pull setup.

I am currently using the stock antec fan that came with the case ( antec 1200 w/ gigabyte p55a-ud3 mobo ) and the stock corsair fan that came with the h50. I notice that my corsair fan is only doing about 450rpm ( low speed? ) while the antec does about 1200rpm or so on mid speed. I plugged the corsair fan under fan2 in the mobo but i can't seem to find a way to raise its rpm. Wish it had came with a socket that i can just plug in the psu like the other fans. I want it so both fans almost match in terms of rpms. Currently running between 29-33c on idle but i know it can do better. Any help appreciated ^^b


----------



## SperVxo

Sweet! I got my new H50 back from RMA and installed it in the same P/P config. Hitting 68 Max temp. Might have with ambient temp though.

Going to give it a try to mount it in the front of the chassi and see what temps i get =)

Edit: Did a really quick test to see if it was a huge impact on temps. But it wasnt. It was 68 with intake and was flickering between 68-69 mounted in front of the 140mm Chassifan at the front.

The noise reduction was huge when the fans spinned up to higher rpm. And no problems with dust now =P


----------



## MegaTherion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
82.4 degrees

Are you naked?!

Damn its hot in there.

I read over a certain fan speed it doesn't cool anymore. 3000rpm vs 2000rpm

As for your temps I think your ambient temps are a major factor here.


That's exactly what it was, turned on the AC and the ambient temps dropped to 21C. At full load it was sitting around 49-50C in coretemp.

I'm going to end up shelving or selling these Ultra Kaze's though, 2 of them on the radiator sounds like a mini hair dryer, and my PC is in a shared room (living room), as we live in an apartment.

What I'm getting in its place is an updated chassis (HAF 932), 2x Scythe S-FLEX SFF21F fans for push/pull on the radiator (will mount in the top of the HAF 932), 2x Scythe S-FLEX SFF21E's for the top exhaust on each side of the radiator (all of this in lieu of the 230mm fan up top).

That should get me better ambient temps overall, and hopefully more of an "air moving" sound instead of the blow dryer sound from those Kaze's, without sacrificing too much on my CPU temps.


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oo0oolala*


Hey all, new to the H50 thread. I have few questions regarding the push/pull setup.

I am currently using the stock antec fan that came with the case ( antec 1200 w/ gigabyte p55a-ud3 mobo ) and the stock corsair fan that came with the h50. I notice that my corsair fan is only doing about 450rpm ( low speed? ) while the antec does about 1200rpm or so on mid speed. I plugged the corsair fan under fan2 in the mobo but i can't seem to find a way to raise its rpm. Wish it had came with a socket that i can just plug in the psu like the other fans. I want it so both fans almost match in terms of rpms. Currently running between 29-33c on idle but i know it can do better. Any help appreciated ^^b


You could always get yourself a fan controler such as the NZXT Sentry 2!


----------



## buste2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84*


Not that the light humming of the GT's were annoying, but I've _had_ them hooked up directly to my PSU in addition to my fan controller and they still hummed. My new fans are about the same noise and produce the same temps, but they're PWM.


Maybe it depends on the MB? I know for a fact that EVGA's MB cause the humming to be extremely loud and annoying









We tested it with 2 EVGA x58 3x and 1 LE and the results were the same.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


Do you believe the CPU fan header isn't supplying the GT with enough voltage?


I believe the power is not as clean maybe? The RPM's showed them running full speed like normal. It was just the humming noise increased using the MB's 3pin vs a fan controller directly to the PSU.


----------



## uncola

Hi this is my first post on this forum.. I just upgraded to an H50 stock fan intaking air, core i5-750, 2x2 gigs of ocz platinum 1600Mhz ddr3, gigabyte p55a ud3 mobo and an a sapphire 5870 video card. The psu I'm using is my old Corsair HX520 and the case is a Coolermaster 690. I have one a stock Coolermaster 120mm fan on the front panel of the case intaking air and a 120mm fan w/ dust filter on the side door sucking in air also. I'm getting about 30c idle and 50c doing prime95 blend.. I live in hawaii so the ambient temp is about 82f in the room I have the computer in.
I've only had the computer together about 24 hours.. and I ran prime95 for 12 hours with no problems.
My next step is to overclock.. I'm hoping to get 4GHz. I haven't overclocked in a while so I am going to be reading up on voltages and clock multipliers and stuff today before I attempt to do it.. I'm willing to change to a push/pull if I have to.
Any guides to overclocking settings in particular that I should be looking at today?
edit: I notice in my bios it says the pump is running at 1330rpm and the radiator fan is 1679. I turned off smart fan control.. are these acceptable speeds? I know the pump is supposed to run at 1400 so that's why I mention it


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:



Originally Posted by *uncola*


Hi this is my first post on this forum.. I just upgraded to an H50 stock fan intaking air, core i5-750, 2x2 gigs of ocz platinum 1600Mhz ddr3, gigabyte p55a ud3 mobo and an a sapphire 5870 video card. The psu I'm using is my old Corsair HX520 and the case is a Coolermaster 690. I have one a stock Coolermaster 120mm fan on the front panel of the case intaking air and a 120mm fan w/ dust filter on the side door sucking in air also. I'm getting about 30c idle and 50c doing prime95 blend.. I live in hawaii so the ambient temp is about 82f in the room I have the computer in.
I've only had the computer together about 24 hours.. and I ran prime95 for 12 hours with no problems.
My next step is to overclock.. I'm hoping to get 4GHz. I haven't overclocked in a while so I am going to be reading up on voltages and clock multipliers and stuff today before I attempt to do it.. I'm willing to change to a push/pull if I have to.
Any guides to overclocking settings in particular that I should be looking at today?


Welcome! You need to fill in your system specs before you can receive any help as people would like to know what you have first.

For instance if you have an Intel CPU i5/i7 they are generally easy to get to 4GHz!


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


Originally Posted by *uncola* 
Hi this is my first post on this forum.. I just upgraded to an H50 stock fan intaking air, core i5-750, 2x2 gigs of ocz platinum 1600Mhz ddr3, gigabyte p55a ud3 mobo and an a sapphire 5870 video card. The psu I'm using is my old Corsair HX520 and the case is a Coolermaster 690. I have one a stock Coolermaster 120mm fan on the front panel of the case intaking air and a 120mm fan w/ dust filter on the side door sucking in air also. I'm getting about 30c idle and 50c doing prime95 blend.. I live in hawaii so the ambient temp is about 82f in the room I have the computer in.
I've only had the computer together about 24 hours.. and I ran prime95 for 12 hours with no problems.
My next step is to overclock.. I'm hoping to get 4GHz. I haven't overclocked in a while so I am going to be reading up on voltages and clock multipliers and stuff today before I attempt to do it.. I'm willing to change to a push/pull if I have to.
Any guides to overclocking settings in particular that I should be looking at today?
edit: I notice in my bios it says the pump is running at 1330rpm and the radiator fan is 1679. I turned off smart fan control.. are these acceptable speeds? I know the pump is supposed to run at 1400 so that's why I mention it


http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ing-guide.html

That might help you out a little i guess, or not








Credits to FSF-Foxhound


----------



## whoisron

If you undervolt a San Ace 9G1212H101 to run as the same RPM as a GT15 would the noise produced by the San Ace be around the same as a gentle typhoon? and would there be a big difference in how much air is being pushed as well as with static pressure?


----------



## spacegoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwwIX*


Just got my Scythe Ultra Kaze's today. The H-50 came yesterday.

All i need is the appropriate screws for the push-pull configuration.
What size screws do i need to use again?



I am using some black thumb screws like these:


I have x2 38mm Panaflo fans on my set up. Thumb screws fit perfectly and are easy to work with.


----------



## FauxFox

Hey how well do you think The Rad connected to the front intake do?

I have 1 front fan slot, 1 rear, and 2 on the side panel.

I have 2 120mm fans already, one in the front and one on the back, and I'm using the Stock Intel HSF ziptied to the side panel (dropped GPU temps 3c???)

Where should I put the H50 rad? On the side panel next to the Exhaust fan, or should I exhaust air out the front and intake from the back?

I only have air filters up front though..

Case it an NZXT beta. the first one, not the EVO.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FauxFox* 
Hey how well do you think The Rad connected to the front intake do?

I have 1 front fan slot, 1 rear, and 2 on the side panel.

I have 2 120mm fans already, one in the front and one on the back, and I'm using the Stock Intel HSF ziptied to the side panel (dropped GPU temps 3c???)

Where should I put the H50 rad? On the side panel next to the Exhaust fan, or should I exhaust air out the front and intake from the back?

I only have air filters up front though..

Case it an NZXT beta. the first one, not the EVO.

That is a matter of trying imo, and see what gives you best results.. depends on airflow in your case. I would start with trying it on the rear as exhaust.. also Corsairs way putting it as intake on the rear is worth a try..

Take a day, and try different setups.. and see what suits you the best.


----------



## Ironwolf1974

Have a huge case and work overseas most of the time, so changing from an antec 1200 full size monster to a CM 690 II Advanced.

I have dual GTX 275s, I7 920 Processor which both get overclocked. So far with the air cooling Im fine but the Vigor monster cooler on the thing has broken down and I wanted a smaller size for the smaller case.

Im planning on buying a few extra fans to throw in the case, and it looks to have cable holes so I can put the radiator on the outside of case.

Anyone have this case? Any good ideas? Im going to use a push/pull configuration. I can get the screws at a hardware store correct? 6-32 x 1-1/4in is the size I need?

Thanks for any help,
Ironwolf


----------



## LiLChris

Just an update, just saw my lowest idle temp ever 32c.
Changed it to fan/case/rad/fan. Load temps went down 2c when i did this.
Now i need a fan grill, it worries me a bit out there lol

So glad i got this, +rep for Asetek









Oh and Ironwolf1974, i tried that with my haf932 but didnt have the right screws. A few have done it for certain cases. Good luck it will make a difference i promise you!


----------



## cjc75

So I got my new Fans today...

Two Red LED Cooler Master 120mm R4's. I plan to sandwich my H50 Rad with them; but I am also taking a pair of 25mm Thermaltake Fans that I never used and cut them apart to make a 50mm Shroud.

So, I am curious and... I do apologize if this has been asked before but. Anyone here have any suggestions on how I should put this together? What sort of screws would I need? I am guessing with two 25mm fans and a 50mm shroud; ok thats 100mm there plus the Radiator which I am going to guess isn't more then 25mm itself...

So 130 - 135mm long screws?

Maybe secure it with some washers and nuts?

Or is there another and better way to mount all this together?


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cjc75*


So I got my new Fans today...

Two Red LED Cooler Master 120mm R4's. I plan to sandwich my H50 Rad with them; but I am also taking a pair of 25mm Thermaltake Fans that I never used and cut them apart to make a 50mm Shroud.

So, I am curious and... I do apologize if this has been asked before but. Anyone here have any suggestions on how I should put this together? What sort of screws would I need? I am guessing with two 25mm fans and a 50mm shroud; ok thats 100mm there plus the Radiator which I am going to guess isn't more then 25mm itself...

So 130 - 135mm long screws?

Maybe secure it with some washers and nuts?

Or is there another and better way to mount all this together?


You need eight 6-32 x 2 1/4" screws (and a few washers probably). The shrouds are sandwiched between the fan and the rad on each side.


----------



## nathris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spacegoast* 
I am using some black thumb screws like these:


I have x2 38mm Panaflo fans on my set up. Thumb screws fit perfectly and are easy to work with.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
You need eight 6-32 x 2 1/4" screws (and a few washers probably). The shrouds are sandwiched between the fan and the rad on each side.


Simple fan screws work as well. If you have a 6-32 x 1cm it will fit inbetween the holes on the shroud and still have enough depth to secure it to the rad. Then you attach the fan to the shroud using fan screws. Thats what I'm doing for my Ultra Kaze.

Oh and here are some fan speed comparisons:

My H50 is currently set up on the rear 120mm slot as follows:

Ultra Kaze 3000 | Shroud | Case | H50 | Noctua NF-P12-1300

Both fans are *intake*.

I'm running Prime95 blend, and the loop is warmed up.

Ultra Kaze : OFF
Noctua: 65%










Ultra Kaze: ~6V (as low as it can go before turning off)
Noctua: 65%










Ultra Kaze: 12V (100%)
Noctua: 65%










With the UK off my rig is pretty damn silent, when its at 6V, its somewhat noticeable, but only I'm not watching something/gaming/listening to music. At 12V its painfully noticeable, but I can't hear it when I have the fan on in my room.

With just my pathetic little Noctua, running at 65% sucking air in through the rad, case grill and the stationary UK, my H50 still manages to keep the temps in check under load. Tcase as reported by the motherboard was 65C, which is still 7C under the limit. With the UK going at 6V Tcase was just 56C, giving me plenty of OC headroom should I need it.

Thats the magic of the H50. Keeping a 3.8GHz i5 750 at acceptable temps using a single undervolted Noctua fan outputting less than 30 CFM is pretty much impossible on the VenX, Megahalems, and pretty much any other tower heatsink you can buy. I actually got worse temps using the exact same fan with an HDT-S1283 on my tiny little e5200.


----------



## cjc75

Ok one more question before I get this all set up! lol.

Can I hook two fans, to a single fan plug on my Mobo, presuming I find a Y-Cable for it?

I just realized that my Mobo may be one fan plug too few. I have two fans on my side panel. Then there is a plug for the CPU Fan and a plug for the PWR Fan. Obviously these will be used for the H50's pump, and the other for one of the Rad fans. I'll have one extra Fan that will need a plug.

I could rig the last fan to power off a 4-pin power plug from the PSU if I have too, as I have one of those available. But I'd rather not as that would just complicate my current wiring mess! lol


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cjc75* 
Ok one more question before I get this all set up! lol.

Can I hook two fans, to a single fan plug on my Mobo, presuming I find a Y-Cable for it?

I just realized that my Mobo may be one fan plug too few. I have two fans on my side panel. Then there is a plug for the CPU Fan and a plug for the PWR Fan. Obviously these will be used for the H50's pump, and the other for one of the Rad fans. I'll have one extra Fan that will need a plug.

I could rig the last fan to power off a 4-pin power plug from the PSU if I have too, as I have one of those available. But I'd rather not as that would just complicate my current wiring mess! lol

The fans might not get the amount of power they need to run at full rpm, but that varies with motherboard. You can try it and see what happens.


----------



## nathris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cjc75* 
Ok one more question before I get this all set up! lol.

Can I hook two fans, to a single fan plug on my Mobo, presuming I find a Y-Cable for it?

I just realized that my Mobo may be one fan plug too few. I have two fans on my side panel. Then there is a plug for the CPU Fan and a plug for the PWR Fan. Obviously these will be used for the H50's pump, and the other for one of the Rad fans. I'll have one extra Fan that will need a plug.

I could rig the last fan to power off a 4-pin power plug from the PSU if I have too, as I have one of those available. But I'd rather not as that would just complicate my current wiring mess! lol

Depends on how much current each fan draws. Most motherboards these days are built to handle high power 38mm fans like a Delta or San Ace, so I'm guessing anywhere from 1.4-2A is ok.

If you're just using two fans similar in power to the stock fan the amount of power you draw should be similar to that of a Delta, so theoretically it *should* work.


----------



## the_xpert

I'm in







I FINALLY GOT ONE wooo. I have to make a build log still so youll be seeing it shortly. Installed though


----------



## uncola

I've had my new system with h50 running for almost 48 hours.. and I still haven't overclocked.. my one concern is that in the bios it shows the pump is only 1330 rpm.. is this bad? or are mobo rpm things pretty imprecise.. it's a gigabyte p55a ud3


----------



## Iamthebull

Just ordered one and will be in on the 21st. Tempted to try it on the 720BE but I'll probably just wait to hook it up to the 1090T when it comes out here soon.


----------



## Arkuatic

Can anyone tell me what's the height in mm of the radiator and the pump/block stacked(like right on top of each other). I'm thinking of getting one for my HTPC but it can't really fit anything too tall


----------



## CULLEN

I'm about to buy additional 120mm rad, which you do you guys recommend and is there anything else I'll have to buy? Will be bought from performance-pcs.


----------



## NerfHurder

Anyone running Scythe Kaze 3k's in p/p setup? Just grabbed a couple and before install I was trying to get some insight on what to expect aside from noise.

If I missed it somewhere in the thread...give me a heads up.


----------



## rck1984

Yo guys,

I am still on vacation and bought my H50 here with 2 Gentle Typhoons, now i am wondering what you guys think..

Which one of the following options would probably the best?
Things that matter: My ambient is around 22c at home, at this moment of the year and i am using a HAF 922, H50 in push/pull with 2 GT 1850s










Note:
- Option B and C can be either INTAKE or EXHAUST.
- For option B, i need to drill a hole in the rear of my case, so before doing that... i am actually wondering if its worth it...

So opinions and suggestions are much appreciated!








Oh and erm... dont judge my awesome paintskills >.<


----------



## tke395

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rck1984* 
Yo guys,

I am still on vacation and bought my H50 here with 2 Gentle Typhoons, now i am wondering what you guys think..

Which one of the following options would probably the best?
Things that matter: My ambient is around 22c at home, at this moment of the year and i am using a HAF 922, H50 in push/pull with 2 GT 1850s










Note:
- Option B and C can be either INTAKE or EXHAUST.
- For option B, i need to drill a hole in the rear of my case, so before doing that... i am actually wondering if its worth it...

So opinions and suggestions are much appreciated!








Oh and erm... dont judge my awesome paintskills >.<

I am running option A right now in the same case and am very happy with the results (with two cooler master 90 cfm red led fans ) I have two deltas on the way. My case is set up as the rad & fans as intake in the front with the 200mm lower fan as intake , the side 200 mm fan as intake , the bottom 120mm fan as intake the top 200mm as exhaust and the 120 mm rear as exhaust. and right now my cpu temp is 29*c to 34*c at Idle whith a q6600 at 3.2 GHz . Oh and I also have 2 275 gtx in sli with a third on the way exhausting.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tke395* 
I am running option A right now in the same case and am very happy with the results (with two cooler master 90 cfm red led fans ) I have two deltas on the way. My case is set up as the rad & fans as intake in the front with the 200mm lower fan as intake , the side 200 mm fan as intake , the bottom 120mm fan as intake the top 200mm as exhaust and the 120 mm rear as exhaust. and right now my cpu temp is 29*c to 34*c at Idle whith a q6600 at 3.2 GHz . Oh and I also have 2 275 gtx in sli with a third on the way exhausting.

How is the tubing? i mean, was it easy to place in into the 5.25 bay? or are the tubes kind of short? I dont really like to stretch them all the way tbh, if u know what i mean.


----------



## scottath

thought id update this:
enzotech MOS-C1

well - put system back together.....and added more:


















got my second HDD back in and a 120*38mm fan + a 120*25mm shroud onto the H50 rad - and note the H50's tubing - some pretty tight angles.
and the fan is touching the 24ping connector btw.


----------



## tke395

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rck1984* 
How is the tubing? i mean, was it easy to place in into the 5.25 bay? or are the tubes kind of short? I dont really like to stretch them all the way tbh, if u know what i mean.

Check out my profile I have picks posted. But what I did wasmount the pump head and then routed everything over(tubes on the bottom) I mountedfans with shrouds and used 4 zip ties to hold it suspended in the bay on the exit side ( that way I can remove the fan on the entake to clean the rad)


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tke395* 
Check out my profile I have picks posted. But what I did wasmount the pump head and then routed everything over(tubes on the bottom) I mountedfans with shrouds and used 4 zip ties to hold it suspended in the bay on the exit side ( that way I can remove the fan on the entake to clean the rad)

Hmm, makes sense.. looks good.
One more thing i forgot to add is...

I have a Storm Sniper sidewindow installed on my HAF922, which means that i dont have an option anymore to install fans on the side. But to compensate, i installed a 120mm fan above the 200mm fan infront as intake ofc.

Basicly like this:










For some reason, i was leaning towards option B.. Because i will still keep double intake on front then and the rad will be outside the case, which is usually the coolest. But option A gives me kind of the same situation airflow-wise but i do have the rad inside the case then.


----------



## whoisron

Hrm so this morning I had to remount my h50 heatsink because I got a new i7 930 chip I used noctua thermal paste and I used about a rice size maybe a wee bit more and put a dot in the middle of the cpu, but I notice my idles and load got worse by around 4c. I applied the thermal paste right and supposedly noctua thermal paste is really good and the paste is new as well. Also noctua paste supposedly has no curing time. Am I suppose to apply the thermal paste to the cpu only or onto the h50 heatsink, since the h50 originally came with paste on the heatsink of the h50?


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


Originally Posted by *whoisron* 
Hrm so this morning I had to remount my h50 heatsink because I got a new i7 930 chip I used noctua thermal paste and I used about a rice size maybe a wee bit more and put a dot in the middle of the cpu, but I notice my idles and load got worse by around 4c. I applied the thermal paste right and supposedly noctua thermal paste is really good and the paste is new as well. Also noctua paste supposedly has no curing time. Am I suppose to apply the thermal paste to the cpu only or onto the h50 heatsink, since the h50 originally came with paste on the heatsink of the h50?

Id say, CPU only.


----------



## cjc75

I see that a lot of people are doing...

fan+shroud+rad+shroud+fan

I am assuming this is with two, 25mm shrouds...

But, I am reading, at the beginning of this Thread...

Contagion's Fan Shroud + Push/Pull Testing

Quote:

Fan-->50mm Shroud-->Rad--Fan
Ambient______Idle______Load
_24C________20C?______36C
Sticking a 50mm shroud between the push fan, and the Rad, and then no shroud in the pull position, seems to offer the best and lowest Temps?

So then why does it seem everyone favors the other way with two shrouds on either end?


----------



## Magus2727

I don't think there will be much difference between the size for shroud, as long as your pulling the fan off from being right on the radiator.

For the "configuration" most people find that unless they put part of the push/pull on the out side of the case they don't have room for that massive block. I personally will be moving the pull fan and adding a shroud and have it on the out side of the case.


----------



## ryman546

Thermaltake Element V where should i mount this sucker. I was thinking at the front somehow. I have 2 ultra kaze's. The reason i say front is because i will have 2 *think its 140mm* fans at the top sucking hot air out. Also a yate loon in the back. 2 in the front bottom and that gigantic fan on the side.


----------



## BigB76toold

Need some help with this cooler.

I thinking about getting this cooler,

My problem is that the way i would like to install this cooler is going to be little hard, i think.

OK, I have the HAF 932 case with the evga x58 x3 SLI LE motherboard. And my plan/want to place the Rad in the drive bay slots.My biggest problem is the CPU fan header is a long way from the drive bays and not sure if i can find a fan with long enough cable to reach from the drive bay to the CPU fan header.

If i can not install the rad in the drive bay area what would be the next best way to install this cooler in my case


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BigB76toold* 
Need some help with this cooler.

I thinking about getting this cooler,

My problem is that the way i would like to install this cooler is going to be little hard, i think.

OK, I have the HAF 932 case with the evga x58 x3 SLI LE motherboard. And my plan/want to place the Rad in the drive bay slots.My biggest problem is the CPU fan header is a long way from the drive bays and not sure if i can find a fan with long enough cable to reach from the drive bay to the CPU fan header.

If i can not install the rad in the drive bay area what would be the next best way to install this cooler in my case

The cable to power the pump is coming out from the pump, not the rad, so that shouldn't give you a problem.


----------



## BigB76toold

Ya, the Fan cable is not long enough to reach to the Cpu fan header on my motherboard.
That is my problem, I need to find a fan or find a way to get the fan cord to reach from the drive bay to the cpu fan header on my mobo.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BigB76toold* 
Ya, the Fan cable is not long enough to reach to the Cpu fan header on my motherboard.
That is my problem, I need to find a fan or find a way to get the fan cord to reach from the drive bay to the cpu fan header on my mobo.

Buy an extension or use another fan.
http://www.svc.com/fc44pwm-12.html


----------



## whoisron

guys any suggestion on if im getting bad temps from reseating applying noctua thermal paste since I had to change out cpu chips. The thermal paste I used has no cure time, do some pastes even if they state no cure time get better temp after the cpu heats up and cools down at least a couple times?


----------



## val_andrio

Hi there to all. I just wanted to add my little something to this thread







.
For some users in previous posts that have asked for a top mounted Hydro cooling system.
I have a coolermaster cosmos and a push-pull configuration on the last Xigmatek fan in a series of three, mounted just on top of the case.


----------



## Magus2727

thats a sick looking set up... the colors look very trippy...


----------



## FauxFox

Yeah Yeah!


----------



## KoukiFC3S

Stock i7 930 w/ H50 + push/pull gentletyphoons. What should I expect?

It's idling at 42C right now. Seems high.


----------



## Magus2727

No Shrouds? What are the case temps and ambient/room temps?


----------



## KoukiFC3S

I have a frozen cpu shroud, and the setup is mounted in the 5.25 bays.










This is strange. CPU is in the 20s, and cores in the 40s.









I'm gonna update the BIOS.


----------



## Magus2727

Take a look at this and see if it matches...

http://www.cpuid.com/hwmonitor.php


----------



## KoukiFC3S

Yup, same thing. I called evga and they said it's normal. Hmm I reseated the hs 3 times, using different amount of thermal paste, but all the results are very similar.


----------



## Magus2727

some times you need to wait a few days so it can go through some "heat" cycles that way the Thermal past can be "absorbed" while it will work right away optimal performance will take a little longer.


----------



## whoisron

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


some times you need to wait a few days so it can go through some "heat" cycles that way the Thermal past can be "absorbed" while it will work right away optimal performance will take a little longer.


i sure hope so because I used noctua thermal paste i knew i should have gotten IC7


----------



## Magus2727

its just the thermal past getting into all the imperfections... another thing you can try to do is polish the CPU, i am not real familiar on what precautions need to be taken but have seen people make the top look like a mirror... that would help!


----------



## whoisron

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


its just the thermal past getting into all the imperfections... another thing you can try to do is polish the CPU, i am not real familiar on what precautions need to be taken but have seen people make the top look like a mirror... that would help!


nah are you talking about lapping? i heard that voids warranty.. not that ill ever use it but still.


----------



## Syrillian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *whoisron*


nah are you talking about lapping? i heard that voids warranty.. not that ill ever use it but still.


Yes, lapping will void the warranty and decrease the re-sale value of your CPU.


----------



## TwwIX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Syrillian* 
Yes, lapping will void the warranty and decrease the re-sale value of your CPU.

It's worth it. I have yet to see a CPU go bad on me. I have lapped every one of my CPU's. It drops the temp down considerably. Up to 10 degrees celsius, depending on the CPU. My 920 D0 dropped at least 6 degrees celsius on my load temps.


----------



## paleblue

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TwwIX* 
It's worth it. I have yet to see a CPU go bad on me. I have lapped every one of my CPU's. It drops the temp down considerably. Up to 10 degrees celsius, depending on the CPU. My 920 D0 dropped at least 6 degrees celsius on my load temps.

I wouldn't dream of disputing what you say I just find it really hard to imagine that lapping can make such a big difference. I mean cpu's faces might not be absolutely micrometer perfect but they must be good enough for the TIM to make up the difference.

Like I said I'm not doubting your word but boy does 6C seem a big difference to attribute just to lapping. Is it possible that after the lapping you just got a better TIM distribution or a more even pressure screwing the cooler down?


----------



## TwwIX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *paleblue*


I wouldn't dream of disputing what you say I just find it really hard to imagine that lapping can make such a big difference. I mean cpu's faces might not be absolutely micrometer perfect but they must be good enough for the TIM to make up the difference.

Like I said I'm not doubting your word but boy does 6C seem a big difference to attribute just to lapping. Is it possible that after the lapping you just got a better TIM distribution or a more even pressure screwing the cooler down?


Hey, don't take my word for it. Research it and see for yourself.
Most CPU's have a curvature to them. Especially Intel CPU's.
Curvature equals uneven contact with the heat sink. Hence the higher temps. You can reapply the TIM and reseat the HS all you want. It won't make a difference. My overclocked E4300 dropped by 9 degrees once i lapped it.


----------



## paleblue

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwwIX*


Hey, don't take my word for it. Research it and see for yourself.
Most CPU's have a curvature to them. Especially Intel CPU's.
Curvature equals uneven contact with the heat sink. Hence the higher temps. You can reapply the TIM and reseat the HS all you want. It won't make a difference. My overclocked E4300 dropped by 9 degrees once i lapped it.


I'm sure you're right. I just find it strange that a company that deals with such precision engineering and has done for so many decades cant get an inch square metal surface flatter than the edge of a banana.


----------



## BigB76toold

Hey guys. I have my installed and so far so good with it, Stuck using stock fans for now,But i will be getting some better fans so i can be in push pull,

Anyway here is my question

Since my case rear exhaust fan is able to have a 140mm do you think it be overkill to attach the 140 to the outside of my case and have that blowing into the 2 120's

So it would be something like this
140-Case-120-Rad-120.

Think that would be bit much or help even more?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwwIX*


Hey, don't take my word for it. Research it and see for yourself.
Most CPU's have a curvature to them. Especially Intel CPU's.
Curvature equals uneven contact with the heat sink. Hence the higher temps. You can reapply the TIM and reseat the HS all you want. It won't make a difference. My overclocked E4300 dropped by 9 degrees once i lapped it.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *paleblue*


I'm sure you're right. I just find it strange that a company that deals with such precision engineering and has done for so many decades cant get an inch square metal surface flatter than the edge of a banana.


I probably did the worst lapping job ever on my Phenom 9850 a few years ago and I saw 5-6Âºc drop. If you get it right, I've seen peeps with 9-10Âºc drops. A lot also depends on the CPU, some have a flatter surface than others, you can tell when you start to lap it, the copper starts to show on the highest point first which is usually the edges while the center is still not showing any. Lap the CPU and lap the heatsink and you will see a heck of a temp drop.

Only thing is that once you lap, there goes your warranty.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KoukiFC3S* 
Yup, same thing. I called evga and they said it's normal. Hmm I reseated the hs 3 times, using different amount of thermal paste, but all the results are very similar.

I see loads of i7 owners coming into this thread asking why temps are so hot. Answer is, i7's run really hot. We have known this for ages.


----------



## LiLChris

I wouldnt trust myself lapping, ill just end up raising my temps lol
Would be nice to stay under 60c with the h50, but ill probably try lapping in 3 years when a mobo/cpu upgrade is in order.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BigB76toold* 
140-Case-120-Rad-120.

It would probably be kill the flow.
The fan from the h50 is really good, putting the 140 behind the 120 would make the 120 work more. Due to the 140 being slower. (assuming the case fan sucks)

Try this instead -->fan/case/rad/fan--> works well. It dropped my temps by a bit instead of having everything inside.

BTW add your system here


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottath*


thought id update this:
enzotech MOS-C1

well - put system back together.....and added more:


















got my second HDD back in and a 120*38mm fan + a 120*25mm shroud onto the H50 rad - and note the H50's tubing - some pretty tight angles.
and the fan is touching the 24ping connector btw.


Hey scottath... sure you couldnt get it just a tad smaller? Wicked work man









How is it running?


----------



## kcuestag

Hello,

I have a HAF 932 and currently here's how I installed my H50:



If you ask me why I installed a xigmatek fan with some zip-ties giving air to the CPU block, well some people told me it helped, but I am not really sure if it actually does help the temps on cpu or not ....

Now my question is, do you think I would get better temps if I install it on the top part of the case ( the H50 ) ???

Thanks,

Kevin.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

If you put the fans horizontally, depending on what type they are, will burn out a lot faster. Most fans are made to go verticality, like the stock H50 fan.

As for the temps, only you can tell us if you get better temps or not. Just try it out and see what you get.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast* 
If you put the fans horizontally, depending on what type they are, will burn out a lot faster. Most fans are made to go verticality, like the stock H50 fan.

As for the temps, only you can tell us if you get better temps or not. Just try it out and see what you get.









I just think the Corsair H50 is not performing as well as it should :/ I have my CPU @ 3,9GHz with 1,36v right now and I get iddle temps of 30-34ÂºC and full of 50ÂºC :/ I expected it better


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
I just think the Corsair H50 is not performing as well as it should :/ I have my CPU @ 3,9GHz with 1,36v right now and I get iddle temps of 30-34ÂºC and full of 50ÂºC :/ I expected it better









Those are great temps. Remember the H50 idles are higher than most other heatsinks, but it is lower on the load temps. (load temps count more







)


----------



## SmasherBasher

So are these things still worth getting? I'm very tempted to get one today.


----------



## pcnuttie

I say go for it. Always been hearing good results. I have been thinking for some time. Have a friend who has a new one coming in brand new and gonna sell it to me for cheap so i am joining the club soon and installing it when summer starts


----------



## Hy3RiD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hy3RiD*


Hi,

I am (maybe) getting a Corsair H50, obviously for my CPU, can I use this and then later add a WC loop for my GPU and then maybe add my CPU later, or just leave it with the H50. Because right now I can not afford a proper/full loop.
Hope this make sense










This question


----------



## rck1984

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hy3RiD*


This question










As others mentioned, its not worth the effort putting an extra block with the H50.. Its designed for it current loop.. you could add a res or so, but id say keep it as it is...

Get the h50 and enjoy it for now.. or leave it and save for a proper custom loop. Question you should ask yourself is, "Is it worth it to save for a custom loop or not, due to my overclock goals" If not, imo the h50 does a good job at cooling.


----------



## pcnuttie

Yea H50 does a great job at cooling. It does take heat faster away


----------



## s_stahl02

just replaced dark knight with h50 p/p. idle temps went from 35c to 27c


----------



## trivium nate

looks good and nice kitty


----------



## spice003

so any deals going on on this any where, i'm thinking of ordering it today from newegg. i actually have it in my cart ready to buy it, just trying to see if i can get for cheaper somewhere else.


----------



## s_stahl02

Quote:



Originally Posted by *s_stahl02*


just replaced dark knight with h50 p/p. idle temps went from 35c to 27c


BTW i got the H50 at best buy and it was on sale for 59.99. better get it now if your thinking about it


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spice003*


so any deals going on on this any where, i'm thinking of ordering it today from newegg. i actually have it in my cart ready to buy it, just trying to see if i can get for cheaper somewhere else.


I've only seen it for $60 at bestbuy in january, and two times at frys in january, once for $55 and $50.


----------



## grendelrt

I have a H50 coming for my 800D and was wondering what fans I should go with? I have been reading this thread and it sounds like 1850rpm GentleTyphoon is a popular choice. Could I use one of these with the stock H50 fan in push pull? Could I run just one GT? Do most people run 2 GTs?


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grendelrt*


I have a H50 coming for my 800D and was wondering what fans I should go with? I have been reading this thread and it sounds like 1850rpm GentleTyphoon is a popular choice. Could I use one of these with the stock H50 fan in push pull? Could I run just one GT? Do most people run 2 GTs?


Most people do run 2 GT's. I am using the stock fan right now, and it works fine. I also have the stock antec 120mm fan that came as a rear exhaust with my fan doing the push. I can't afford to GT's right now, but I plan on getting them soon.


----------



## grendelrt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast*


Most people do run 2 GT's. I am using the stock fan right now, and it works fine. I also have the stock antec 120mm fan that came as a rear exhaust with my fan doing the push. I can't afford to GT's right now, but I plan on getting them soon.


I have an Antec Tri Cool sitting around too, they aren't too noisy on medium. Maybe I will try that as a push and the stock H50 as a pull.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grendelrt*


I have an Antec Tri Cool sitting around too, they aren't too noisy on medium. Maybe I will try that as a push and the stock H50 as a pull.


Make the one with more cfm the push.


----------



## s_stahl02

i think the stock fans are just fine.. my i7 920 is oc's to 4ghz and everest is reading 35c right now. i just got 2 stock fans in p/p. but most people want some case bling...


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast* 
I've only seen it for $60 at bestbuy in january, and two times at frys in january, once for $55 and $50.

Damn you americans







, i payed like 70euro's in Sweden, and its about the same in Holland where i live.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


Originally Posted by *s_stahl02* 
i think the stock fans are just fine.. my i7 920 is oc's to 4ghz and everest is reading 35c right now. i just got 2 stock fans in p/p. but most people want some case bling...

Its not about the case bling, you simply get better performance of 2 good fans.. with nice airflow and static pressure. You can actually win a couple degrees with good fans, and every degrees you can decrease is appreciated.

Besides that, the H50 does a good job with stock fans as well.. but if u want to push it to its max, go for 2 good fans

Also, load is what counts imo.. and on max load, you will benefit from good fans


----------



## Striker36

so i have read the first 200 or so pages here and i feel i have a pretty solid knowledge of the system here but im just cureous.

i know their have been a few rad and res mods to the H50 but what do you guys think of adding THIS and a rez to the loop with the H50 rad also.

im thinking of putting the black ice rad in the "cooling duct" in my project rig (intake) and the H50 rad at the stock intake underneath with a rez some place else.

just looking for in put.

thanks in advance


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Striker36*


so i have read the first 200 or so pages here and i feel i have a pretty solid knowledge of the system here but im just cureous.

i know their have been a few rad and res mods to the H50 but what do you guys think of adding THIS and a rez to the loop with the H50 rad also.

im thinking of putting the black ice rad in the "cooling duct" in my project rig (intake) and the H50 rad at the stock intake underneath with a rez some place else.

just looking for in put.

thanks in advance


I think the H50 does a pretty good job from stock. Save up that extra $ your going to spend to mod it until you can afford a real water cooling setup. But, that's just what I would do.


----------



## uncola

I'm using the stock fan on my h50.. if I add a yate loon 1350rpm as pull will it screw up the airflow or will it increase performance? I have like 3 extra yate loons in a box and don't have the cash for some gentle typhoons now


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *uncola* 
I'm using the stock fan on my h50.. if I add a yate loon 1350rpm as pull will it screw up the airflow or will it increase performance? I have like 3 extra yate loons in a box and don't have the cash for some gentle typhoons now

If you have three, use two for a push/pull. Your temps will drop a lot.


----------



## voodoo71

Hey guys. Where can one pick up some bolts long enough to set up a push/pull with a shroud for the H50?


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *voodoo71* 
Hey guys. Where can one pick up some bolts long enough to set up a push/pull with a shroud for the H50?

Any hardware store. Just remember to take the stock screws so you can get the exact same ones.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *voodoo71* 
Hey guys. Where can one pick up some bolts long enough to set up a push/pull with a shroud for the H50?

Well most guys use just two screws per fan for the H50 just because it works. If you put the screws in a diagonal pattern then I am sure it can be done unless the shrouds get in the way or something.

If that doesn't work. Take a screw from the H50 with you to a hardware store and see if they can find one similar but longer.


----------



## Striker36

most home improvement stores will have them.

your looking for 6/32nd at w/e length you need


----------



## BigB76toold

Looking for Good fans that will do a good job,that will not be really loud and not break the billfold.

Thanks


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigB76toold*


Looking for Good fans that will do a good job,that will not be really loud and not break the billfold.

Thanks


Yate loon or GT-15 if you have the money.


----------



## BigB76toold

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185092

or pay extra and get two of these

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835608004


----------



## tryceo

So... if I just get this cooler, I dont have to pay all that money for all those radiators and stuff like that? Just the this $80 and my 920 can reach 4GHz with out the super loud noise?


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigB76toold*


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185092

or pay extra and get two of these

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835608004


compare the cfm/dba ratio and you will definatly want the GT's.


----------



## pcnuttie

Ok so you guys are saying.. well here's an example cuz i am getting a H50 by summer but i am getting it this week for early prep. I have a Antec 1200 and i know it comes with a fan but i do have an additional fan for push and pull. Do i set this on Exhaust cuz i do NOT want any heat coming inside my case at all. I just also wanted to have good temps too. I don't even plan to overclock so hard til later, I'll just probably do a mild overclock to 3ghz like before.

Can someone show me a diagram on my case? so i can be sure to know what i should be doing? I have read this whole thread though. I just wanna be sure i don't do anything wrong, wouldn't hurt to ask for a advice anyways since i'm jumping on the bandwagon water cooling boat


----------



## nardox

H50 is great!
Just installed H50 with 2 Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM as exhaust.
Room temp is 22c, temp inside the case is 25c. TIM is AC MX-3

CPU: i7 920 [email protected] with HT off, 1.2v in BIOS, video rendering for 15 minutes with about 80-90% CPU usage.
Max temp with 1 fan push: 59c
Max temp with 2 fans on: 56c


----------



## ryman546

anyone know temps at 1.4 volts phenom ii x4 965 3.8ghz with a scythe ultra kaze push? getting like 48 celsius after 20-25 minutes of prime95.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
Ok so you guys are saying.. well here's an example cuz i am getting a H50 by summer but i am getting it this week for early prep. I have a Antec 1200 and i know it comes with a fan but i do have an additional fan for push and pull. Do i set this on Exhaust cuz i do NOT want any heat coming inside my case at all. I just also wanted to have good temps too. I don't even plan to overclock so hard til later, I'll just probably do a mild overclock to 3ghz like before.

Can someone show me a diagram on my case? so i can be sure to know what i should be doing? I have read this whole thread though. I just wanna be sure i don't do anything wrong, wouldn't hurt to ask for a advice anyways since i'm jumping on the bandwagon water cooling boat









I have an Antec 900 so I guess that's similar to the 1200. I'm just using the case rear exhaust fan and the stock h50 fan exhausting air out of the case. making it an intake screws up your case air flow.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nardox* 
H50 is great!
Just installed H50 with 2 Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM as exhaust.
Room temp is 22c, temp inside the case is 25c. TIM is AC MX-3

CPU: i7 920 [email protected] with HT off, 1.2v in BIOS, video rendering for 15 minutes with about 80-90% CPU usage.
Max temp with 1 fan push: 59c
Max temp with 2 fans on: 56c

Use prime95 to get your load temps, they're more accurate.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BigB76toold* 
Looking for Good fans that will do a good job,that will not be really loud and not break the billfold.

Thanks

Bang for the buck I'd recommend the 2000rpm Coolermaster R4.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-060-_-Product


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Bang for the buck I'd recommend the 2000rpm Coolermaster R4.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-060-_-Product

Those are some of the most misleading fans ever. CM rates the dba at the lowest rpm, but the cfm is at highest rpm. So don't expect them to be 19dba and run at 90cfm.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast*


Those are some of the most misleading fans ever. CM rates the dba at the lowest rpm, but the cfm is at highest rpm. So don't expect them to be 19dba and run at 90cfm.










I'm aware of that. I have 2 that I tested. Performance is close to the GTs at a lower price point. GTs build quality puts them to shame though.


----------



## ToxicAdam

static pressure is more important on radiator fans.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


static pressure is more important on radiator fans.


Agreed, my 100CFM Scythe S-Types didn't flow much air through the rad.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
anyone know temps at 1.4 volts phenom ii x4 965 3.8ghz with a scythe ultra kaze push? getting like 48 celsius after 20-25 minutes of prime95.

Just keep it under a max of 55C under 24/7 use. That's what I did when I used a Phenom II 550 unlocked to B50 as my sig rig.


----------



## ryman546

i was just wondering if i seated it correctly. Was only a 3 celcius difference from a hyper 212 plus with scythes in push pull.


----------



## genji

I just purchased mine for my birthday last night! Going to try and install it either later today or tomorrow.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *genji* 
I just purchased mine for my birthday last night! Going to try and install it either later today or tomorrow.

Enjoy it, and happy birthday









Take some pictures once you're ready to go !


----------



## Sethy666

I love this cooler!

Ive had it for months and it just keeps vindicating my choice.

I recently went from a E8400 duo to a Q9400 quad, Ive just OCed it from 2.66 Ghz to 3.8 Ghz and it just takes whatever I throw at it


















For those with enquiring minds, room ambient is 26c

*Hey Genji... Happy Birthday!*


----------



## Bodycount

@Hey sethy

What sidebar is that on the left of you desktop?


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tryceo* 
So... if I just get this cooler, I dont have to pay all that money for all those radiators and stuff like that? Just the this $80 and my 920 can reach 4GHz with out the super loud noise?

Nope, no extra items needed for the stock setup it is a self contained system..
no water to refill either.

What temps are you hitting now? I was able to hit 4.0 with good temps but seeing I live in the south where heat can be an issue, I went ahead and up graded my fans and did a Push-Pull setup for the summer months..

Noise...... You will not know it is even turned on.!


----------



## the_xpert

Here is a pic from my LANpert build log, I'm in!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *the_xpert* 
Side view with h50 completely set up with both fans now:


----------



## Frankie007

ok I need help. I just put in a ultra kaze 3k fan with a shroud in exhaust mode with my top fan on intake directly above the h50 and my temps are still up. They wont come down from low 40s on idle hitting a 39 minimum and 58-62 on load hitting 64 maximum. Also on 100% load the air coming from the axhaust does not feel hot at all maybe a little warm but thats all.


----------



## scottath

probably a TIM application issue - either too much/too little if yo udid it yourself.

or its just a hot chip?


----------



## Frankie007

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scottath* 
probably a TIM application issue - either too much/too little if yo udid it yourself.

or its just a hot chip?

I didn't, i used what was pre applied I heard it's better that the artic 5 i got so i just left it. Should i reseat it what if it's not the tim and i replac it with the 5 will it make it worse


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
@Hey sethy

What sidebar is that on the left of you desktop?

Rocket Dock
http://rocketdock.com/

I love it!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Frankie007* 
ok I need help. I just put in a ultra kaze 3k fan with a shroud in exhaust mode with my top fan on intake directly above the h50 and my temps are still up. They wont come down from low 40s on idle hitting a 39 minimum and 58-62 on load hitting 64 maximum. Also on 100% load the air coming from the axhaust does not feel hot at all maybe a little warm but thats all.


scottath is probably right. If you did a stock install, there is way too much TIM on that pump head. Recommend clean it off and use MX2 or MX3, or a small amount of Shin Etsu.

It may also not be seated flush. Its tricky but another re seat is probably warranted.


----------



## PCSarge

yes it is a hot chip, the i7 930 idles at pretty high temps on stock cooler, id say whay you haveis at least an improvement, you can try a reseat, it may or may not work,depending on the TIM , the cure time, and the amount


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
yes it is a hot chip, the i7 930 idles at pretty high temps on stock cooler, id say whay you haveis at least an improvement, you can try a reseat, it may or may not work,depending on the TIM , the cure time, and the amount

Hey, its Sarge!

How have you been?


----------



## ToxicAdam

Dammit, I just got my new Delta AFB1212M fan and cant attach it with a shroud because my side panel fan is freakin in huge! 240mmm


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
Dammit, I just got my new Delta AFB1212M fan and cant attach it with a shroud because my side panel fan is freakin in huge! 240mmm










Hmmm... can you send a pic, perhaps we can suggest something.








mmmm... dremel...


----------



## ToxicAdam

There are only two options.. put the side panel fan outside the case(ugly) or remove it... It keeps the motherboard cool though.

Oh well... I gutted a perfectly good 120mm fan to use as a shroud for nothing.

Going back to fan>rad


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Hey, its Sarge!

How have you been?

been busy sethy, i'm still waiting for my tax return







sadly thegovermentis lazy and takes 4-6 weeks so no I5 as of yet


----------



## Frankie007

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Rocket Dock
http://rocketdock.com/

I love it!

scottath is probably right. If you did a stock install, there is way too much TIM on that pump head. Recommend clean it off and use MX2 or MX3, or a small amount of Shin Etsu.

It may also not be seated flush. Its tricky but another re seat is probably warranted.

Guess thats what ima have to do. I'll do it as soon as my fan controller comes in


----------



## ryman546

would ocz freeze bring better temps if i apply it instead of what came with?


----------



## nasha

I ordered Ultra Kaze 3000rpm fans for my H50, since right now my CPU is running a bit hot @ 4GHz.

I am thinking, I will go for shrouds... any idea from where I can purchase them? newegg doent have them (or maybe I missed :confused)... and I would need 120mm shroud? right?

Thanks


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nasha* 
I ordered Ultra Kaze 3000rpm fans for my H50, since right now my CPU is running a bit hot @ 4GHz.

I am thinking, I will go for shrouds... any idea from where I can purchase them? newegg doent have them (or maybe I missed :confused)... and I would need 120mm shroud? right?

Thanks









make shrouds! buy some 9 dollar fans and gut them! cheaper than paying extra for a premade shroud!


----------



## TwwIX

I finally set it up yesterday. I went with the 2000RPM version of the Ultra Kaze's for push-pull. Have them running at full speed. I expected them to be much louder. Now i regret that i did not go with the 3000RPM version instead.
Oh well, these will suffice i guess.

I haven't overclocked my i7 920 to 4.00Ghz yet. I still have to mod my side panel so that i can add two 120mm intake fans.
I have already cut out and added one on top for exhaust.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
been busy sethy, i'm still waiting for my tax return sadly thegovermentis lazy and takes 4-6 weeks so no I5 as of yet

All things come to those that stand in line and wait







Hang in there, it will be worth it!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TwwIX* 
I finally set it up yesterday. I went with the 2000RPM version of the Ultra Kaze's for push-pull. Have them running at full speed. I expected them to be much louder.Now i regret that i did not go with the 3000RPM version instead.
Oh well, these will suffice i guess.

I haven't overclocked my i7 920 to 4.00Ghz yet. I still have to mod my side panel so that i can add two 120mm intake fans.
I have already cut out and added one on top for exhaust.

I have the UK 2000s in P/P as well. If you can spare the space, a shroud on both fans does make a positive difference in terms of noise and temps. Your right about the noise... they are not that loud.

Push>shroud>rad>shroud>pull.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TwwIX* 
I finally set it up yesterday. I went with the 2000RPM version of the Ultra Kaze's for push-pull. Have them running at full speed. I expected them to be much louder.Now i regret that i did not go with the 3000RPM version instead.
Oh well, these will suffice i guess.

You did the right thing. 3000rpm with noise @ 45dba is loud.

A poster here tested 3000rpm vs 2000rpm and said there is no difference cooling wise.


----------



## genji

Hi. I plan on installing my newly purchased H50 and I'm not sure if this has been asked but I really don't want to look through 700+ pages of posts







I was told for best performance to put it in an exhaust configuration. How would I go about doing that? I am learning how to install it from







YouTube- How to install the Corsair Coolingâ„¢ Hydro Series H50 CPU cooler So how much would I have it differ? One last question, using the exhaust configuration can you still do a push/pull method? (I'm new to overclocking and just want the best performance I can get with the h50). Thanks


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *genji* 
Hi. I plan on installing my newly purchased H50 and I'm not sure if this has been asked but I really don't want to look through 700+ pages of posts







I was told for best performance to put it in an exhaust configuration. How would I go about doing that? I am learning how to install it from YouTube- How to install the Corsair Coolingâ„¢ Hydro Series H50 CPU cooler So how much would I have it differ? One last question, using the exhaust configuration can you still do a push/pull method? (I'm new to overclocking and just want the best performance I can get with the h50). Thanks









Hi genji,

I suggest you try both ways, some people have better results intaking, some have better results exhausting. Me myself I had better results exhausting but that depends on case and fan configuration.

With intake or exhaust, you can still do push and pull, it does not affect it in anyway.


----------



## Demon_panda

hi my h50 pumps runing slow 1360-1394rpm (hardware monitor) i tryed to get it fast in bios but it stay the same.
help!
thx


----------



## genji

I just installled *4* 120mm 93.7CFM fans today and the one in the back of the case is in used as exhaust, so is that all I have to do is just keep the fan the way it is and just attach the fan to the radiator? Is that considered exhaust configuration? Just the way the fan blows?


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Demon_panda* 
hi my h50 pumps runing slow 1360-1394rpm (hardware monitor) i tryed to get it fast in bios but it stay the same.
help!
thx

It's within specs. Nothing to worry about.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *genji*


I just installled *4* 120mm 93.7CFM fans today and the one in the back of the case is in used as exhaust, so is that all I have to do is just keep the fan the way it is and just attach the fan to the radiator? Is that considered exhaust configuration? Just the way the fan blows?


Yes it is exhaust if you put it in the normal way the rear fan blows.


----------



## TwwIX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


You did the right thing. 3000rpm with noise @ 45dba is loud.

A poster here tested 3000rpm vs 2000rpm and said there is no difference cooling wise.


Hmm, somebody told me on here that the UK 3's static air pressure rating is above 8.00 mm H2O. That's almost double as much as the UK 2. You'd expect it perform better with those specs. I guess i made the right choice after all. 
Deciding on which fan to go with was quite a headache since so many things play a factor. Anyway, thanks for the reply.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


I have the UK 2000s in P/P as well. If you can spare the space, a shroud on both fans does make a positive difference in terms of noise and temps. Your right about the noise... they are not that loud.

Push>shroud>rad>shroud>pull.


How much of a difference are we talking about here?


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwwIX*


How much of a difference are we talking about here?


From what I read in this thread 2-3 degrees


----------



## KILLER_K

All the difference i seen in push and pull was about 4Â° - 6Â°.


----------



## TwwIX

I Am talking about those makeshift shrouds. Not push and pull.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *genji*


I just installled *4* 120mm 93.7CFM fans today and the one in the back of the case is in used as exhaust, so is that all I have to do is just keep the fan the way it is and just attach the fan to the radiator? Is that considered exhaust configuration? Just the way the fan blows?


Yes, make sure the fans are blowing out of the case.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwwIX*


I Am talking about those makeshift shrouds. Not push and pull.


With my setup - no more that 5c

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Yes, make sure the fans are blowing out of the case.


@ *genji*

If you are using just one fan, make sure the rad goes on the case first, then the fan eg

Exhaust<case<rad<fan = push config

If you have it Exhaust<case<fan<rad, then you will have a pull config, which is not nearly as effecient.

Apologies if you already knew that... it wasnt clear in your post.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

So if I'm correct you can make shrouds from ANY 120mm fan. If this is true anyone have some extra non-working fans lying around I can get?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast* 
So if I'm correct you can make shrouds from ANY 120mm fan. If this is true anyone have some extra non-working fans lying around I can get?










Yep thats correct - see my sig for shroud making instructions.

Im sure you can pick up a crappy fan for $10 or less... second hand stores are my fav!


----------



## Dirtydeedz

Hey Ya'll,

Added myself to the list earlier. Here are some pics of my H50. I can't believe how these things perform!! I set mine up in a push-pull exhaust. I had to. If you look at at the pic of my desk, you will see that the way the PC's fit under the desk causes extreme heat buildup behind the PC's. If I ran the H50 as an intake it would just be sucking in hot air. With my Azza Solano 1000 case, the temp always stays between 29Â°C and 32Â°C, which keeps the H50 nice and cool. I've successfully OC'd my I7 920 to 4.01Ghz.









Thanks for great thread. This thread really inspired me to buy the H50.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Yep thats correct - see my sig for shroud making instructions.

Im sure you can pick up a crappy fan for $10 or less... second hand stores are my fav!

Thanks. I can get 2 fans for $6 each at frys, but I just wanted see if someone here has some that don't work and I would pay for the shipping.


----------



## Ironwolf1974

what does push/pull mean? I keep seeing it posted but cant see a demo of it anywhere.

I was going to put a fan on each side, both blowing OUT of the case out of the back. Ill have two intake fans on the front and two on the side, then an extra out the back above the radiator with the top pulling air in also.

is this a good config?

Ironwolf


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ironwolf1974*


what does push/pull mean? I keep seeing it posted but cant see a demo of it anywhere.

I was going to put a fan on each side, both blowing OUT of the case out of the back. Ill have two intake fans on the front and two on the side, then an extra out the back above the radiator with the top pulling air in also.

is this a good config?

Ironwolf


Push/pull is when you have one fan pushing fan into the rad and another fan on the other side of the rad pulling air out.

Only you can know what config is best for you. Test them out and see which one gets you the best temps.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ironwolf1974*


what does push/pull mean? I keep seeing it posted but cant see a demo of it anywhere.

I was going to put a fan on each side, both blowing OUT of the case out of the back. Ill have two intake fans on the front and two on the side, then an extra out the back above the radiator with the top pulling air in also.

is this a good config?

Ironwolf


Welcome









As Unleash the Beast said. What fans do you plan to use on your config?

Also, can you pls complete your system specs via the below link, so we can be envious of you system









Quote:



http://www.overclock.net/specs.php?do=addsystem


----------



## AK-47

Hearing good things about the H50


----------



## staryoshi

I got my H50 installed on my Biostar TPOWER i55. Working great so far, haven't had a chance to OC yet. Waiting for my 690 Advanced II to get here. Using a skeleton haf 922 for now... mounted on the top, works pretty awesome that way, really. These 1850RPM typhoons are amazing. I have one mounted on it now, it is nearly inaudible and pushes tons of air... and I'm very sensitive to sound. Love the sound GTs make, it really is acoustically pleasing


----------



## ImmortalKenny

Lol, ridiculous and overkill, but I love it.


----------



## ablearcher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ImmortalKenny*











Lol, ridiculous and overkill, but I love it.


do you have those fans intake (and big top fan blows out) or exhaust?

Also, how did you remove the stock 120mm Antec fan?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AK-47*


Hearing good things about the H50


We like it









Getting one? looking? deciding?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *staryoshi*


I got my H50 installed on my Biostar TPOWER i55. Working great so far, haven't had a chance to OC yet. Waiting for my 690 Advanced II to get here. Using a skeleton haf 922 for now... mounted on the top, works pretty awesome that way, really. These 1850RPM typhoons are amazing. I have one mounted on it now, it is nearly inaudible and pushes tons of air... and I'm very sensitive to sound. Love the sound GTs make, it really is acoustically pleasing










GTs are a popular choice here... what are your temps like?


----------



## pcnuttie

Damn i have to wait next week to get these babies, Shipping got delayed lol.


----------



## ImmortalKenny

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ablearcher*


do you have those fans intake (and big top fan blows out) or exhaust?


The two San Aces on the radiator are intakes. The rear and top fans are exhausts.
Quote:



Also, how did you remove the stock 120mm Antec fan?


The only stock 120mm fan on the case is in the back, and there's just four screws. It's like any other fan (except the 200mm).


----------



## ablearcher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ImmortalKenny*


The two San Aces on the radiator are intakes. The rear and top fans are exhausts.The only stock 120mm fan on the case is in the back, and there's just four screws. It's like any other fan (except the 200mm).


Thank you









The stock 120mm Antec has the fan speed controller, though. How did you get it off of that? (unless if I need to open my case up, again







).


----------



## ImmortalKenny

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ablearcher*


Thank you









The stock 120mm Antec has the fan speed controller, though. How did you get it off of that? (unless if I need to open my case up, again







).


Ooooh, the speed controller is held in by a bracket, which is held in by two screws on on the back of the case. Once you take off the bracket, the speed controllers will slide out.

You'll figure it out.


----------



## ablearcher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ImmortalKenny*


Ooooh, the speed controller is held in by a bracket, which is held in by two screws on on the back of the case. Once you take off the bracket, the speed controllers will slide out.

You'll figure it out.










But isn't the 200mm linked to the fan speed controller, too?

Allright, I'll figure it out







(gotta shut down this rig, eventually, lol).

Thank you! (and +rep).


----------



## Ironwolf1974

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Welcome









As Unleash the Beast said. What fans do you plan to use on your config?

Also, can you pls complete your system specs via the below link, so we can be envious of you system










Well I ordered this CASE FAN CM| R4-BMBS-20PK-R0 RT, thats from Newegg.com, for some reason when I try to go to there site I get to MSN.com instead? ***?

I ordered 4 of those, and Ive got the old Antec 1200 that will take fans out of also since they work pretty well.

Ironwolf


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ironwolf1974*


Well I ordered this CASE FAN CM| R4-BMBS-20PK-R0 RT, thats from Newegg.com, for some reason when I try to go to there site I get to MSN.com instead? ***?

I ordered 4 of those, and Ive got the old Antec 1200 that will take fans out of also since they work pretty well.

Ironwolf


2 x http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185092

/win


----------



## Ironwolf1974

Quote:



Originally Posted by *staryoshi*


2 x http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185092

/win










Yeah, I didnt do enough research for the fans, but I think Ill be ok.

Not looking for some super evil setup, once I get this next contract Ill find the 6000rpm aluminum fans lol.

Ironwolf


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ironwolf1974* 
Yeah, I didnt do enough research for the fans, but I think Ill be ok.

Not looking for some super evil setup, once I get this next contract Ill find the 6000rpm aluminum fans lol.

Ironwolf


GTs are a nice choice.


----------



## kcuestag

Hey,

I overclocked my Phenom II x4 965 Black Edition C3 up to 4Ghz with 1.45v and the iddle temperatures are 34ÂºC and full with Linx for half an hour is 51ÂºC.

Are they good ?


----------



## ImmortalKenny

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Hey,

I overclocked my Phenom II x4 965 Black Edition C3 up to 4Ghz with 1.45v and the iddle temperatures are 34ÂºC and full with Linx for half an hour is 51ÂºC.

Are they good ?

Sounds right on par.


----------



## BeerPowered

So I have been using a single Tri-Cool in Push Config w/ stock TIM. Push/Pull isn't doable without heavy modding in my current case. But will do once my 700D arrives. I have no control over A/C because I live in a dorm, but it finally kicked on for the Summer.

Anyways my idle temps were 38c and now that the AC has kicked on for the summer my idle temps dropped to 32c. This is awesome considering the Stock TIM and only 1 Fan.

Just FYI temps here avg 80-100f with 95% humidity. My room temp before the A/C was 28-30c.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BeerPowered* 
So I have been using a single Tri-Cool in Push Config w/ stock TIM. Push/Pull isn't doable without heavy modding in my current case. But will do once my 700D arrives. I have no control over A/C because I live in a dorm, but it finally kicked on for the Summer.

Anyways my idle temps were 38c and now that the AC has kicked on for the summer my idle temps dropped to 32c. This is awesome considering the Stock TIM and only 1 Fan.

Just FYI temps here avg 80-100f with 95% humidity. My room temp before the A/C was 28-30c.

That's crazy, I wouldn't be able to live in a place that hot, I'm a damn polar bear.


----------



## ryman546

question. Putting 2 ultra kazes in the back of the case makes it stick out to far. Would it still be beneficial to do a Yate Loon 90cfm over nothing?

So bascially Yate loon = Back of case = Radiator = Ultra Kaze = CPU

Otherwise the ultra kaze will have to be outside the case. I dont want green peace coming after me for killing small animals.


----------



## PCSarge

@DirtyDeedz

dude.....please dont tell me i see a Xion case next to yours in those pics, thats disgustingly ugly lmao


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Hey,

I overclocked my Phenom II x4 965 Black Edition C3 up to 4Ghz with 1.45v and the iddle temperatures are 34ÂºC and full with Linx for half an hour is 51ÂºC.

Are they good ?

965s must run cooler than 955s.. I get those same temps at 3.8ghz on my 955


----------



## NemesisCavalry

I'm posting this regarding the set up of H50 as the exhaust of a case.
I don't think there is any temp difference in the case if we set the H50 as intake.
Remember, before you install the H50, the stock HSF was blowing hot all over the inside of the case.
But of course, it's provided you have another way to exhaust all that hot air out of the case....
So, I think it's better to add to the front page of this thread
"It's recommended to set the H50 as intake for better CPU temperature if the case you have has another way to exhaust hot air out"
The difference between intake and exhaust set up may be not big...but I'm a perfectionist


----------



## ToxicAdam

The air inside the case is warmer than outside air... so would it be smart exhausting hot air through your radiator that is meant to cool you CPU? No, that doesn't make any sense.

This is a non-issue on a case with good airflow. A case that has side-panel and top fans


----------



## NemesisCavalry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
The air inside the case is warmer than outside air... so would it be smart exhausting hot air through your radiator that is meant to cool you CPU? No, that doesn't make any sense.

This is a non-issue with a case with good airflow. A case that has side-panel and top fans

R u replying to my post? If so, we have the same opinion actually.


----------



## ryman546

How much temp drop are you all getting from adding a 2nd fan???


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NemesisCavalry* 
R u replying to my post? If so, we have the same opinion actually.

I was replying in general at the debate between intake vs exhaust.


----------



## sub50hz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
965s must run cooler than 955s.. I get those same temps at 3.8ghz on my 955

Really? I just popped my H50 in on Sunday, and with a pair of garbage Tri-Cools (the Ultra Kazes I bought were too big) on medium, I'm around 25C idle and 36C load @ 3.64GHz and 1.4v.


----------



## ryman546

whats your ambient temp? Thats insanely low. i break 50's on my overclock with the h50.

starting to wonder if my pump is even working.


----------



## Salami991

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


question. Putting 2 ultra kazes in the back of the case makes it stick out to far. Would it still be beneficial to do a Yate Loon 90cfm over nothing?

So bascially Yate loon = Back of case = Radiator = Ultra Kaze = CPU

Otherwise the ultra kaze will have to be outside the case. I dont want green peace coming after me for killing small animals.


Surely if your push fan is sending more rad through the rad than your pull fan can take out of it that's a bad thing? I would use identical fans for push / pull. Nothing wrong with the UK outside the case by the way, you could add two shrouds inbetween them as well for better cooling.


----------



## ryman546

Ok ill do this. Last 2 questions When installing the pump hoses had such resistance i had to pull the cpu cooler back off then place it back on. This ruined the paste didnt it? I can reapply no biggy just wanted to make sure.

Also does it matter if the pump has the hoses coming out the top or bottom?


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


whats your ambient temp? Thats insanely low. i break 50's on my overclock with the h50.

starting to wonder if my pump is even working.


50s

Load?


----------



## ryman546

yes 50-54 on full prime 95 load.

cpu - 1.45 volts
nb - 1.2
cpu nb - 1.2
ram - 1.65


----------



## sabret00the

I hope potential or future owner can join. I'm really interested in getting this cooler. I'm gonna get it once I upgrade to a bigger case from my current one.


----------



## killer01ws6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


yes 50-54 on full prime 95 load.

cpu - 1.45 volts
nb - 1.2
cpu nb - 1.2
ram - 1.65


What was your org temps?
If you feel heat out the fan on the back it is working as it wound not get heat to the rad if it was not, plus your CPU would over heat..

I still think the H50 only starts to shine when the temps are high,
I know I see low to mid 60's while gaming and would touch a low 80 if I bench it now that the temps in my PC room are going up to 80ish F*


----------



## ryman546

Yah im going to install 2 shrouds and another ultra kaze outside the case.

Question is. should i cut out the grill for more air flow?


----------



## mr-Charles

...just thought i'd pass this Information/ "Bad Find" for here...
... I gotten another one of these for my second rigg and could NOT get the idle temp's 
for below 36*C for even 6 times a reseat ! !







...
...Even had the load temp going 60*C even pass the 63*C at times....
















So, i removed the H50 from the other rigg & install'd for here on the second rigg and BANG = 
.....idling @ 29*C and load went to no more than 46*C........







....WTH ! ! > >>

so, back to the bad H50; and as you can see for the pic's i have included for this post, 
the BEFORE and then AFTER with a "weee-bit-O-lappin" with only using 800 grit.....will try and re-setup 
for later on this setup and let you all know of better changes, hopefully......

just wanted to give this plug of Info before i had to head out to the hospital for my son's surgery, 
from getting mugg'd a week ago......sorry for not having been around lately, but Family comes first....
....again, will try and update later one this.....

...{1st Pic}...BEFORE= notice the Low spot's ! !









. .{2nd Pic} . .AFTER= only took like and hour's worth of work with 800 grit

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Magus2727

need to wet sand with some 1200 or 1600 grit... that thing will look like a mirror!


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


...just thought i'd pass this Information/Technical "Bad Find" personal find for here..... I gotten another 
one of these for my second rigg and could NOT get the idle temp's for below 36*C for even 6 times 
a reseat ! !







....Even had the load temp going 60*C even pass the 67*C at times....















So, i removed the other H50 from the other rigg and BANG = idling @ 29*C and load went to no more
than 46*C........







....WTH ! ! so, back to the bad H50 and as you can see for the pic's i have included 
for this post, the BEFORE and then after weee-bit-O-lappin with only using 800 grit.....will try and re-setup 
for later on this setup andlet you all know of better changes, hopefully...... 
just wanted to give this 
plug of Info before i had to head out to the hospital for my son's surgery, from getting mugg'd a week ago...
...sorry for not having been around lately, but Family comes first......again, will try and update later one this.....

...{1st Pic}...BEFORE= notice the Low spot's ! !









. .{2nd Pic} . .AFTER= only took like and hour's worth of work with 800 grit

mr-Charles .









.


It's a little hard following what you're saying...


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
It's a little hard following what you're saying...

From what I get... he got a second H50, and had bad temps on his second computer. He put his old H50 from the first computer and got good temps. Results = Something wrong with second H50.

Theory - un level surface? took some sandpaper and could see low and high spots. sanded more to get a level surface. He will see what temps he gets when he gets back from the hospital or what medical situation his family is in.

Essentialy he is Lapping the H50.... to see if it will provide better temps then what it was getting out of the box, which was WAY Hotter then his other H50 was getting out of the box.

Result = the H50 may have some quality issues with the heat plate?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


yes 50-54 on full prime 95 load.

cpu - 1.45 volts
nb - 1.2
cpu nb - 1.2
ram - 1.65


What is your ambient temp like. The H50 is highly sensitive to ambient temps. For comparison my temps are as follows on my 965 C3:

Ambient 20C

At 3.8 ghz, 1.375 volts, NB 260 mhz, 1.24 volts, RAM 1600 mhz 1.70 volts
Idle 27 C, Prime 95 max temp (blended test 3 hours) 47-48 C

At 4.015 ghz, 1.50 volts, NB 2600mhz, 1.25 volts, RAM 1600 mhz 1.70 volts
Idle 30 C, Prime 95 max temp (blended test 3 hours) 53 - 54 C

These are all very good temps for the 965 C3. You should never exceed 55 C for a 24/7 operating set-up. Above 60 C and you've fried your CPU. Hope this helps put your mind at ease.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


From what I get... he got a second H50, and had bad temps on his second computer. He put his old H50 from the first computer and got good temps. Results = Something wrong with second H50.

Theory - un level surface? took some sandpaper and could see low and high spots. sanded more to get a level surface. He will see what temps he gets when he gets back from the hospital or what medical situation his family is in.

Essentialy he is Lapping the H50.... to see if it will provide better temps then what it was getting out of the box, which was WAY Hotter then his other H50 was getting out of the box.

Result = the H50 may have some quality issues with the heat plate?


oh.. so after lapping the second H50 did he get better temps?


----------



## Striker36

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


oh.. so after lapping the second H50 did he get better temps?


we will find out when he gets back from the hospital

but looking at the picture that base was crap and he can only get better. hopefully that was the problem and he doesn't need to RMA it


----------



## Magus2727

He has not tested yet... he had to take off to take care of a medical situation with his family...


----------



## ToxicAdam

I'm thinking about lapping mine.









I hate the twist you have to do on the pump when installing it. You lose the steady pressure needed on the thermal compound


----------



## Magus2727

what I did is "lock it" in place with the screws very loosly in so the thermal past was not touching the CPU and then pressed it down and tightend the screws in a uniform pattern.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Do you use the line method or rice?


----------



## Magus2727

Line or Rice???


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
Line or Rice???

*Line*









*grain of rice*


----------



## Magus2727

I used the Thermal Past that came on the H50 i have not had to re-seat it... I have head to put a Dime size worth in the middle... I have never had to use my thermal past that I have applied....


----------



## ablearcher

My remade setup. I transfered this entire setup (including the H50), from a cramped SG02, to this P180 Mini White.

ImmortalKenny helped me straighten this out - thank you!


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


From what I get... he got a second H50, and had bad temps on his second computer. He put his old H50 from the first computer and got good temps. Results = Something wrong with second H50.

Theory - un level surface? took some sandpaper and could see low and high spots. sanded more to get a level surface. He will see what temps he gets when he gets back from the hospital or what medical situation his family is in.

Essentialy he is Lapping the H50.... to see if it will provide better temps then what it was getting out of the box, which was WAY Hotter then his other H50 was getting out of the box.

Result = the H50 may have some quality issues with the heat plate?



Thnx Magnus 2727 for the clarifation for making other's to realize basically WHAT i was trying to post for here ! !








Sorry for those Who didn't understand WHAT i was posting but i was in a Real hurry to be off for a Family Emergency...
{So, i really didn't get the chance to proof-read my post as i usually do}......
I am now in the Cafeteria at the Hospital with my Laptop & WiFi, for waiting on the surgery of my son for having 
rite now. i just wanted to pop in for now and thank ya Mag.... again;

i won't be able to test out my find of to get result's with till later when time is appropriate enough to deal with, 
but i am sure that was a bad H50_Head=surface for showing from the light sanding's of in the picture...
{ from on post #7220 } ....

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


What is your ambient temp like. The H50 is highly sensitive to ambient temps. For comparison my temps are as follows on my 965 C3:

Ambient 20C

At 3.8 ghz, 1.375 volts, NB 260 mhz, 1.24 volts, RAM 1600 mhz 1.70 volts
Idle 27 C, Prime 95 max temp (blended test 3 hours) 47-48 C

At 4.015 ghz, 1.50 volts, NB 2600mhz, 1.25 volts, RAM 1600 mhz 1.70 volts
Idle 30 C, Prime 95 max temp (blended test 3 hours) 53 - 54 C

These are all very good temps for the 965 C3. You should never exceed 55 C for a 24/7 operating set-up. Above 60 C and you've fried your CPU. Hope this helps put your mind at ease.










Opps big error on the above. At 3.8 Ghz max temp is 43 C NOT 47-48 C.


----------



## The Viper

just got mine...going from Mega to this...early results put them almost equal...i didnt get the H50 for more performance, BTW, only for quieter operation and more space.








[/IMG]


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


I used the Thermal Past that came on the H50 i have not had to re-seat it... I have head to put a Dime size worth in the middle... I have never had to use my thermal past that I have applied....


bought mine used from a review site so I had to use my own thermal.

I just finish lapping my H50 with a 1500 grit paper. Temps drop 3 degrees. I'm now idling at 30c instead on 34c

BUT I did notice my thermal application was bad... when I lifted the pump off the CPU I notice the compound didn't spread. So I'm not going to say lapping helped.


----------



## illestdomer2005

Jeez...you guys are still getting some superior numbers...I think I am going to have to ask what may be a dumb question but...

When you report your CPU temps, are you reporting your CPU temp or the core temps? In Everest, my CPU temp is about 15C cooler than my highest core temp. For example, I have an i7 920 @ 4.2GHz w/ HT on and vCore of 1.29.

Idle:

CPU - 26C
Core 1 - 41C
Core 2 - 41C
Core 3 - 38C
Core 4 - 38C

Under full load with linX, I can get up to 85C! WTH?

I just installed two Gentle Typhoon AP-15s in a push/pull intake configuration. My radiator is oriented with the tubes coming in at the top. Would changing that to a side or bottom configuration give me an appreciable decrease?

I am still bummed at the temps I am seeing. My idle temps are fine, but my load temps blow!


----------



## nasha

Just got my Ultra Kaze 3000rpm fans today. Was planning to do push and pull setup, but couldn't fit the fans in that order. So, I have placed my setup on exhaust.

2 fans on top of the casing are intake and the H50 with UK-3000 is on exhaust.

idle temp @ 4.0GHz are 38C, on full prime load, I am getting 68-70C...

what you think? before I was hitting 80C + on prime ...


----------



## ablearcher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *illestdomer2005*


Jeez...you guys are still getting some superior numbers...I think I am going to have to ask what may be a dumb question but...

When you report your CPU temps, are you reporting your CPU temp or the core temps? In Everest, my CPU temp is about 15C cooler than my highest core temp. For example, I have an i7 920 @ 4.2GHz w/ HT on and vCore of 1.29.

Idle:

CPU - 26C
Core 1 - 41C
Core 2 - 41C
Core 3 - 38C
Core 4 - 38C

Under full load with linX, I can get up to 85C! WTH?

I just installed two Gentle Typhoon AP-15s in a push/pull intake configuration. My radiator is oriented with the tubes coming in at the top. Would changing that to a side or bottom configuration give me an appreciable decrease?

I am still bummed at the temps I am seeing. My idle temps are fine, but my load temps blow!


One note: does your NB get hot? That needs cooling, too









Orientation does not matter. An equal volume of water flow going up, and going down must be mantained, so no matter which way its orientated, the effect is the same.


----------



## nasha

I just checked with HWMonitor, it reports around 3C less temp as compared to RealTemp for the Core..

The CPUTIN is 10C less than RealTemp...


----------



## Chicken Patty

I can't keep up with this thread


----------



## nasha

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
I can't keep up with this thread









lol

exactly.. it flies !


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nasha* 
lol

exactly.. it flies !









i used to check this forum through my iPhone while at work when it was slow, but lately I've been busy so I haven't been able to. I get home and there is 7 new pages. OWNED!


----------



## ablearcher

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
i used to check this forum through my iPhone while at work when it was slow, but lately I've been busy so I haven't been able to. I get home and there is 7 new pages. OWNED!

biddabaddaboom! Pages ftw.

30sec between posts


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ablearcher* 
biddabaddaboom! Pages ftw.

30sec between posts









ROFL!







Bring it on sistas. I'm home now LOL


----------



## WoodiE

On my E8500 my cpu reads the following temps with RealTemp 3.40...
Core 1: 43c
Core 2: 28c

Does this sound normal? I would of thought water cooling would have brought it down lower than that?!?


----------



## illestdomer2005

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ablearcher*


One note: does your NB get hot? That needs cooling, too









Orientation does not matter. An equal volume of water flow going up, and going down must be mantained, so no matter which way its orientated, the effect is the same.


NB stays around 33C under load! It baffles me.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Is the stock H50 fan only 50cfm? I know it says that in the OP, but I always thought it was 65+. Is it confirmed by Corsair that it is 50cfm?


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WoodiE* 
On my E8500 my cpu reads the following temps with RealTemp 3.40...
Core 1: 43c
Core 2: 28c

Does this sound normal? I would of thought water cooling would have brought it down lower than that?!?

Sounds like it's not seated correctly on one side... maybe there's some bend to your mobo or something. I'd try to remount the cooler ever so slightly. (not take it off fully, but re-nestle it)

When it's cooler here I'll post my temps. HT on requires quite a bit of voltage.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WoodiE* 
On my E8500 my cpu reads the following temps with RealTemp 3.40...
Core 1: 43c
Core 2: 28c

Does this sound normal? I would of thought water cooling would have brought it down lower than that?!?

That doesn't seem right, seems like cooler is not seating correctly.


----------



## WoodiE

Well doesn't that just suck monkey nuts. Working on this pc isn't exactly the easiest in this Lian Li case but doesn't sound like I have much of a choice. I'll shut it down and try re-seating it then. Thanks!


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast* 
Is the stock H50 fan only 50cfm? I know it says that in the OP, but I always thought it was 65+. Is it confirmed by Corsair that it is 50cfm?

Corsair's H50 fan is the Akasa AK174CB-4BLB.


----------



## Frankie007

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
I love this cooler!

Ive had it for months and it just keeps vindicating my choice.

I recently went from a E8400 duo to a Q9400 quad, Ive just OCed it from 2.66 Ghz to 3.8 Ghz and it just takes whatever I throw at it


















For those with enquiring minds, room ambient is 26c

*Hey Genji... Happy Birthday!*

what display is that on the right?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WoodiE* 
Well doesn't that just suck monkey nuts. Working on this pc isn't exactly the easiest in this Lian Li case but doesn't sound like I have much of a choice. I'll shut it down and try re-seating it then. Thanks!

Keep us posted


----------



## WoodiE

Well I removed the H50 block, cleaned off the CPU and block and re-applied Artic Silver 5 and re-attached the block. Getting the same results though...


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WoodiE* 
Well I removed the H50 block, cleaned off the CPU and block and re-applied Artic Silver 5 and re-attached the block. Getting the same results though...

Something is up. You sure the backplate is on right? That difference in temps can only mean one thing, not seating correctly. Maybe snap a few close ups? Did you tighten enough, maybe try some more or less?


----------



## WoodiE

I made sure the screws was good and snug, not sure how tight I can crack them down.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WoodiE* 
Well I removed the H50 block, cleaned off the CPU and block and re-applied Artic Silver 5 and re-attached the block. Getting the same results though...

That core sensor looks broken. It's not unusual. Show us load temps.


----------



## WoodiE

Ok here is what I got, ran the LoadTester.exe from RealTemp. Had to run two instances of it because one was only putting the CPU at 50% load.

The first core temp never once changed, core two did as seen in the attached picture and as soon as I stopped the LoadTest.exe programs Core 2 went right back down to 29c in about 5 seconds.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WoodiE*


What program will show me load temps?


You can use the same program to read the temps. But you need to to put your cpu under load. Download IntelBurnTest, run it and click on Start button. You will see your temps increase.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


That core sensor looks broken. It's not unusual. Show us load temps.


True, I didn't think of that


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WoodiE* 
Ok here is what I got, ran the LoadTester.exe from RealTemp. Had to run two instances of it because one was only putting the CPU at 50% load.

The first core temp never once changed, core two did as seen in the attached picture and as soon as I stopped the LoadTest.exe programs Core 2 went right back down to 29c in about 5 seconds.

Speccy, Evererest, real temp theres few proggrams doh editer


----------



## PCSarge

yeah true, sensors can fail or be dead on assembly at factory, mine both failed after about 6 weeks, they are both stuck at 42C now and never move under full load, guess my E7400 doesnt get hot enough

shows intel has 1 part they need to source a better quality of.

P.S : id go by the lower temp, cause it actually moves under load


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
True, I didn't think of that









/rant on/ One of mine is broken. Never goes below 37. Intel feature, not a problem. That and Intel cpus being blowtorches. /rant off/


----------



## WoodiE

Yeah looks like that's the issue. Using Real Temp again I ran a Sensor Test and the movement results came back as Core 1: 0 and Core 2: 8

Never paid much attention to the temps idle vs under load. At least I now my CPU isn't idling at 100F now.









Thanks for the help!


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WoodiE* 
Ok here is what I got, ran the LoadTester.exe from RealTemp. Had to run two instances of it because one was only putting the CPU at 50% load.

The first core temp never once changed, core two did as seen in the attached picture and as soon as I stopped the LoadTest.exe programs Core 2 went right back down to 29c in about 5 seconds.

Try IBT. Temps not high enough to move the broken core sensor.


----------



## WoodiE

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Try IBT. Temps not high enough to move the broken core sensor.

Yup, you're right. I'm running IBT now and temps on both cores are changing now - topping off at 50c.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WoodiE* 
Yup, you're right. I'm running IBT now and temps on both cores are changing now - topping off at 50c.

Load temp looks good too. Enjoy.


----------



## genji

I am connecting my radiator to the back fan in my case which is set to exhaust and this fan is a 93.7CFM fan and I was wondering If I wanted to do the push pull method If I could use the fan that came with the H50 and my fan and be okay or am I going to see a big difference using 2 fans of the same kind? Also, when I mount the radiator is the best way to do it with 2 fans to use the screws set up 2 diaganolly in each fan or will that cause too much rattle? Thanks


----------



## PCSarge

yay i fixed my CPU folding SMP client! it works now! moar points






























: and now for some more points by rebuilding my old P4 system with my 9600 GSO














:


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *genji*


I am connecting my radiator to the back fan in my case which is set to exhaust and this fan is a 93.7CFM fan and I was wondering If I wanted to do the push pull method If I could use the fan that came with the H50 and my fan and be okay or am I going to see a big difference using 2 fans of the same kind? Also, when I mount the radiator is the best way to do it with 2 fans to use the screws set up 2 diaganolly in each fan or will that cause too much rattle? Thanks


diagonal screw placement is fine, alot of users use that method, i found it to be worth the $1.25 to buy 4 6-32 machine screws and washers to attach my other fan, but i too, started with 2 diagonal screws in each fan

P.S : yes this may confuse you, this means its FINE AND SAFE to do the diagonal screw method


----------



## genji

So one last question, probably is a dumb one but, since the first fan is set to exhaust I would make the second fan pushing out toward the outside of the case as well right? Or would it be the opposite?


----------



## Magus2727

you want to keep the air flow moving in the same direction otherwise they are fighting each other and you will just create a small "static" vacuum. you want the Arrow on the fans pointing the same direction.


----------



## ablearcher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


you want to keep the air flow moving in the same direction otherwise they are fighting each other and you will just create a small "static" vacuum. you want the Arrow on the fans pointing the same direction.


note: the stock corsair fan has no arrow









(or was it the stock Antec 120mm in the p180 mini?)

Whichever one was confusin me last night.


----------



## nasha

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ablearcher*


note: the stock corsair fan has no arrow









(or was it the stock Antec 120mm in the p180 mini?)

Whichever one was confusin me last night.










the stock corsair fan does have the air flow arrows


----------



## ablearcher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nasha*


the stock corsair fan does have the air flow arrows










Thank you. Now onto hating Antec...









well... just looking at the blades already told me the airflow direction


----------



## nasha

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ablearcher*


Thank you. Now onto hating Antec...









well... just looking at the blades already told me the airflow direction




















what kinda temps are u getting with your i7-930? and have u overclocked it ?


----------



## genji

How well is the corsair fan? Am I going to notice a big difference in temps using a different fan? Im kind of mixing them so for now I am putting on a 93.7CFM 120mm fan and the corsair one. (should I put the 93.7CFM fan on the inside (outside fan) or the inside?(closest to cpu) for best performance.


----------



## nasha

Quote:


Originally Posted by *genji* 
How well is the corsair fan? Am I going to notice a big difference in temps using a different fan? Im kind of mixing them so for now I am putting on a 93.7CFM 120mm fan and the corsair one. (should I put the 93.7CFM fan on the inside (outside fan) or the inside?(closest to cpu) for best performance.

I just changed my Stock Corsair fan to Ultra Kaze-3000 and had a drop of ~10C. UK-3000 are a bit loud but they have awesome air flow.

so, yeah If you use some good fans, you will notice a difference


----------



## genji

Well next time I get down to fry's electronics I'll pick up another fan. Mine are really loud that I installed I have *4* 93.7CMF fans (at full speed), and when you open the door to my room you can feel the air blowing in your face haha it's pretty epic. I got this sweet NZXT touch screen fan controller, works really well!


----------



## nasha

Quote:


Originally Posted by *genji* 
Well next time I get down to fry's electronics I'll pick up another fan. Mine are really loud that I installed I have *4* 93.7CMF fans (at full speed), and when you open the door to my room you can feel the air blowing in your face haha it's pretty epic. I got this sweet NZXT touch screen fan controller, works really well!

hahahaha..

my rig used to be super quiet until I got these 3000rpm fans, but I guess its worth it, keeping my i7 cool !

I got a fan controller too, so its easy to switch on the silent mode


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
Yah im going to install 2 shrouds and another ultra kaze outside the case.

Question is. should i cut out the grill for more air flow?

If you feel like modding your case, it will reduce turbulance noise from the fan. The two rectangles marked at the bottom where from where the rad tubes came through - orignally had the rad outside the case.










Quote:


Originally Posted by *Frankie007* 
what display is that on the right?

Your right or my right?









Seriously, which one do you mean... are so many on the screen


----------



## uncola

Ok guys, my bios says the pump is running at 1330 rpm.. do you think if I use a 3pin to 4 pin molex adapter on it, it would go to 1400 rpm?
I just overclocked to 4GHz and load temps reach 95C with linux stress test. I had to stop the test and I'm about to try to lower voltages








edit: just ordered two gentle typhoon 1850's.


----------



## LiLChris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *uncola* 
Ok guys, my bios says the pump is running at 1330 rpm.. do you think if I use a 3pin to 4 pin molex adapter on it, it would go to 1400 rpm?
I just overclocked to 4GHz and load temps reach 95C with linux. I had to stop the test and I'm about to try to lower voltages









If you just installed it, give it some time. Some claim it doesnt need cure time but i got mine not that long ago and i saw temps drop after more usage.

Also make sure you dont have Smartfan (auto speed) on. Put it manual and 100%.


----------



## pcnuttie

Ouch 95c?!


----------



## LiLChris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
Ouch 95c?!

I got 85c first day too, next day it dropped by alot.
When it finally settled it the temps maxed at 73.

But i changed the TIM, i felt like it had too much like many others and now im at 67c

Quote:


Originally Posted by *genji* 
How well is the corsair fan? Am I going to notice a big difference in temps using a different fan? Im kind of mixing them so for now I am putting on a 93.7CFM 120mm fan and the corsair one. (should I put the 93.7CFM fan on the inside (outside fan) or the inside?(closest to cpu) for best performance.

If your going to change the stock fan, make sure you get something strong.
The Gentle Typhoons 1850rpm are great but the difference is minimal.

I personally wish i had something stronger, too late now.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
Ouch 95c?!

nuttie, beware of the P5N-D, mine fried its own pci express 2.0 slot and my GeForce 9800gtx+ not too long ago, figured id warn you, i lost alot of money cause noone would replace parts
they all blamed eachother


----------



## pcnuttie

Dude i had this motherboard for a year and a half, it's fine. I don't overclock hard on this and i have done volt mods on this. We have a thread about this motherboard and i do appreciate the warning but i'm not scared dude. I know what i am doing and this is a GREAT motherboard and i'm sorry to say you don't agree and sorry you had your fried. You must have done something to push it.You could have RMA it anyhow if it was damaged.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LiLChris* 

If your going to change the stock fan, make sure you get something strong.
The Gentle Typhoons 1850rpm are great but the difference is minimal.

I personally wish i had something stronger, too late now.

You are the first person i see that mentioned this, i only hear great story's about the GT15's, that they are topnotch. Because of the great static pressure and noise/performance ratio.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rck1984* 
You are the first person i see that mentioned this, i only hear great story's about the GT15's, that they are topnotch. Because of the great static pressure and noise/performance ratio.

I think "lilchris" overlooked static pressure. They give better temps than my 110 CFM Scythe S-Types.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
I think "lilchris" overlooked static pressure. They give better temps than my 110 CFM Scythe S-Types.

The GT-15's give better temps than the 110CFM?


----------



## sub50hz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
whats your ambient temp? Thats insanely low. i break 50's on my overclock with the h50.


It's a steady 74-75F in here (so like 24C) most of the day.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
yes 50-54 on full prime 95 load.

cpu - 1.45 volts
nb - 1.2
cpu nb - 1.2
ram - 1.65

Here's mine:
cpu - 1.42v
nb - 1.30v
cpu nb - 1.50v
ram - 1.70v
My CPU-NB and NB are high because I decided to sacrifice a bit of core clock speed and pushed the IMC to 3000MHz. Better performace all around than I had at 3.8GHz/2600MHz.


----------



## sub50hz

Also, swapped my Ultra Kazes for a pair of S-Flex 1600s, will test out and report back in a bit.


----------



## TwwIX

Does it matter whether the tubes are up or down?

How bendable are they?

I Am plan on adding a 120mm my side panel. Right above the CPU.
The tubes are in the way though.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast* 
The GT-15's give better temps than the 110CFM?

I should have rephrase that, posting from my phone so I post in a hurry.

The gentle typhoons have better static pressure so they move more air through the rad.


----------



## B-Con

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TwwIX* 
Does it matter whether the tubes are up or down?

How bendable are they?

It does not matter; and the tubes are fairly flexible. In some cases, you may have to remount the waterblock in a different position to get the tubes to go in the direction you need them to.


----------



## sub50hz

Wow, these S-Flex are terrible. 6C higher idle and 7C higher load than the Tri-Cools on high, albeit a bit more quiet. Too bad, probably just toss the Antecs back on.

edit: I should mention this is configured as exhaust, will try as intake shortly.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
nuttie, beware of the P5N-D, mine fried its own pci express 2.0 slot and my GeForce 9800gtx+ not too long ago, figured id warn you, i lost alot of money cause noone would replace parts
they all blamed eachother

I see you read the post of that guy's motherboard catching on fire by the looks of your sig..


----------



## Beezlo

So i installed my new AMD X6 1055t last night. The proc was a demo and didnt come with any cooling from AMD. So i decided to pickup the H50. I had to modify my case becasue there is no support for 120mm fans. Ended up drilling a hole in the top and mounting the radiator and fan. Ill post some picts latter. I only ran 3dmark 06 on defaults but my temp never went over 31c! Tonight the OC begins!


----------



## Chicken Patty

Thing with s types is they work great as case fans, but not for coolers or rads.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Beezlo* 
So i installed my new AMD X6 1055t last night. The proc was a demo and didnt come with any cooling from AMD. So i decided to pickup the H50. I had to modify my case becasue there is no support for 120mm fans. Ended up drilling a hole in the top and mounting the radiator and fan. Ill post some picts latter. I only ran 3dmark 06 on defaults but my temp never went over 31c! Tonight the OC begins!


Where did you get the X6??? They don't come out yet....


----------



## Beezlo

AMD sent me a demo proc yesterday. Ive been waiting since last week becasue im taking it to Intel's Lanfest on friday. Although im sure to get a bunch of crap from the Gulftown boys. This proc is the 2.88 and when i ran 3dmark 06 it got a cpu score a little over 6000. Which is expected. Im going to Overclock the pants of it tonight. I didnt have to sighn a NDA!


----------



## Magus2727

Humm.. looks like on Amazon you can get the 1055T Shipped so you can get it tomorrow... only 3 left....


----------



## Beezlo




----------



## Magus2727

I am coveting right now... Tell us how it over clocks!! What MB do you have? It will be interesting to see what temp these run with the H50 vs the X4's...


----------



## Beezlo

I spent most of last night modding the case for the h50. I only ran 3dmark once but the temp was between 28-31c. I havn't upgraded my MOBO yet but will shortly. So keep in mind the results may be skued with an older board and ddr2.

Setup

CPU: AMD x6 1055t 2.88ghz
Ram: kingston ddr2 6400 4gb dual channel 5cas 
Mobo: Asus M3N78-VM
Cooling: Corsair H50 Hydro
HDD: 4 Seagate Barracuda 500 GB (ST3500641AS) in Raid 0
Video Card: Asus GTX 260

3dmark 06
Cpu Score: 6011

I will post screen shots and OC results tonight.


----------



## Magus2727

Aint that MB a AM2/AM2+ board??? and the X6 is a AM3 chip??!?!?

Well I got the DDR3 so that should be nice and have the AMD North Bridge Chip set....


----------



## Beezlo

Ya its an older board for sure..but after the bios update it supports the x6. Asus rocks! .

Im just amazed with the h50's cooling abilities. Cant wait to crank up the proc. Looks like the x6's can OC by using its turbo feature. So that should leave me room to play.









BTW supported ASUS boards below:

http://event.asus.com/mb/2010/m4_6cores/


----------



## sub50hz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Aint that MB a AM2/AM2+ board??? and the X6 is a AM3 chip??!?!?


.....and?

I always wondered if the IMC sees a stress difference between DDR2 and DDR3.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sub50hz*


.....and?


Its while it is a "same" socket as the previous, plans where that the AM3 would not be compatible with the AM2/AM2+....

The Bulldozer ship is said to be a AM3+ plat form....

Just impressed I guess that it would work...Makes me more comfortable getting the 1090T for my board (790FX NB and AM3 socket) even though Gigabyte has not "officialy" said they support the 1090T, while they do support the 1055T....

Did you install the H50 as new with the new chip? or did you have it on your previous CPU


----------



## sub50hz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Its while it is a "same" socket as the previous, plans where that the AM3 would not be compatible with the AM2/AM2+....


Nope. AM3 is designed to be fully compatible with DDR2, as it was built with a pair of IMCs, one for DDR3 and one for DDR2.


----------



## mr-Charles

.....just an update from my posting's of #7220...

just gotten into the install & running prime95;
temp's are a *LOT* better since the light_lapping....








{only thing i *didn't* do was lapp the cpu, 
but wanted to keep the warrantee is why...}

idle = 29 to 31* 
load = 48 to 51* 
with ambient @ 22 to 24*

am a Happy Camper, now . . .








{ till i "jump" into _*FULL*_ _*H2O*_ ...







...







}

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Beezlo

I bought the H50 becasue the x6 was a demo chip and didnt have a cooler with it. Also a few of my budies have H50's and overclocked the pants out of the Phenom II x4 965 BE. Saungine took it over 4gigs with little to no temp increase.

Check it out:

http://beezlan.com/?p=151


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Does anyone know if the Antec tricool fans have good static pressure?


----------



## spice003

So i got my H50 today, took me a while to set up push/pull, had to find screws and stuff. anyways, how do these temps sound to you with my athlon 630 @ 3.2, 23c idle. 40 full load after 30min?


----------



## The Viper

so is a push/pull config the most optimal for cooling with the H50? VS. one 120x38mm high CFM


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spice003* 
So i got my H50 today, took me a while to set up push/pull, had to find screws and stuff. anyways, how do these temps sound to you with my athlon 630 @ 3.2, 23c idle. 40 full load after 30min?

How does the temps compare to what you had before?


----------



## genji

Good News! I have my H50 installed as of last night at 2am. I purchased it last sunday (my birthday) decided on Monday to install it. Here is my horror story...I take out my motherboard and install the mount on the bottom of the board like instructed all is well. I put the motherboard back in then go to unscrew the back case fan took out the first 2 screws just fine. The other 2 screws won't come out they were stripped at the head, I tried for over 2 hours to get them out (made it even worse). So I am stuck with no computer that night and didn't have a drill or proper tools to get them out.

The next morning I drive over to home depot, I bring in the screws and left the computer in the car just in case. He says I'll need a drill and an easy out. I told him I didn't have a drill, the man was nice enough to let me bring in the computer and drill out the screws..but the easy out didn't work on one of the screws so he had to use some needle nose pliers and a lot of muscle. FINALLY! the screws came out and He gave me the easy out for free and didn't charge me and just said if It happens again at least I have the easy out. I go to school and come home last night to finally finish installing the H50. I mount the fans to the radiator, make sure the unit is properly secured and tight over my CPU and am so excited and I go to plug it in POWER! no leakage (my biggest fear) but...nothing shows up on the screen and I didn't hear it past post, no beeps whatsoever! I figured maybe I didn't Plug something back in right and I tried the onboard video so I knew it wasn't the video card and I had just used the monitor 2 days before so I knew it was good, so what could it be?

I look and everything seems properly connected. I called my friend Scott and he graciously offered to come over at midnight to help me with it. He comes over we spend like 20-30 minutes trying to troubleshoot it. FINALLY we found out why it wasn't working properly. I forgot to plug in the 6-pin connector which was right below the radiator so I couldn't even see that it wasn't plugged in (I felt like an Idiot lol)This is my first overclocking experience and I just started recently working with computer hardware so I figured the best way to get experience is to do it myself. Also, the reason I wasn't getting any beep codes and not hearing the errors is because even tho my sound pin was plugged in apparently It didn't lock in properly so it was just kind of sitting on the pins.

That is my horror story, but at the end I learned a valuable lesson and I installed 4 fans and a fan controller with great success Monday before I attempted installing the H50 so I did one thing right at least haha. Overall tho I am glad I have the H50 in and it's running perfectly and I'm really noticing a difference in temperature and I even overclocked my system for the first time! Hopefully someone can learn from my experience or has had a similar one and knows how it feels lol. I feel like I accomplished my goal and you can do anything if you put your mind off of it, and one more things stay off drugs kids lol.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Viper*


so is a push/pull config the most optimal for cooling with the H50? VS. one 120x38mm high CFM


Push/ pull is the way to go. If you cant use similar fans, use the more powerful one as the push fan.

Also have a look at using shrouds. These will decrease both your temps and noise from the fans (reduced turbulence)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *genji*


Good News!


Whoa! Wall of text alert









Im glad it finally went well... Its all a journey and next time, you wont make the same errors









What config are you running and how are your temps?


----------



## genji

exhaust config and I'll post my temps when I get home from work.


----------



## ThaJoker

Hey guys thought you might like this....

http://martin.skinneelabs.com/FanTesting.html


----------



## TwwIX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ThaJoker* 
Hey guys thought you might like this....

http://martin.skinneelabs.com/FanTesting.html

This thread is much more informative
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...tor-tests.html


----------



## Ironwolf1974

Hey need some help here!

Got the CM II 690 Advanced case and its top fan is blowing IN, so I mounted two 1800rpm 80cfm fans on the H50 blowing OUT, and Ive got a case fan on the FRONT blowing in.

Now I have two extra 1800 fans with 80cfm in my hands and the side panel looking at the motherboard has two slots.

Should I have these fans blowing into the case, out of the case, one doing one and one doing the other?

Ideas. Suggestion. Anything helpful.

Thanks.

Me


----------



## Sethy666

They are both pretty interesting articles.

I found this statement in the first article... cryptic. Is he proposing 2 x 25mm piggybacked?

_"This would indicate that stacking of 25mm fans is a good means to adding static pressure..."_


----------



## Ironwolf1974

I have smartfan off in my bios, and the CPU Fan control is saying my cpu fan is running at 1400 or so RPM.

Is this within specs?

Ironwolf


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


They are both pretty interesting articles.

I found this statement in the first article... cryptic. Is he proposing 2 x 25mm piggybacked?

_"This would indicate that stacking of 25mm fans is a good means to adding static pressure..."_



There is a Delta fan that is kind of built like this from the factory... most turbines and wind tunnels have a dule stack up like mentioned...

Edit: doing a push pull essentially does the same... they are just separated by a radiator.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ironwolf1974*


I have smartfan off in my bios, and the CPU Fan control is saying my cpu fan is running at 1400 or so RPM.

Is this within specs?

Ironwolf



For your pump? Yes it is. 1350 - 1470ish rpm.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ironwolf1974*

Hey need some help here!

Got the CM II 690 Advanced case and its top fan is blowing IN, so I mounted two 1800rpm 80cfm fans on the H50 blowing OUT, and Ive got a case fan on the FRONT blowing in.

Now I have two extra 1800 fans with 80cfm in my hands and the side panel looking at the motherboard has two slots.

Should I have these fans blowing into the case, out of the case, one doing one and one doing the other?

Ideas. Suggestion. Anything helpful.


Your other components need air too








Have them intaking air into your case. If you have your H50 exhausting, the cooler air from those fans will help your temps.


----------



## Ironwolf1974

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


For your pump? Yes it is. 1350 - 1470ish rpm.

Your other components need air too








Have them intaking air into your case. If you have your H50 exhausting, the cooler air from those fans will help your temps.


Cool pictures of the setup will be forthcoming.

Everything up and running, but no overclock.

Getting temp readings over time right now!

Ironwolf


----------



## sub50hz

Blech, these S-Flexs blow as rad fans. this is my first foray into WC, so I hadn't paid much attention to static pressure and whatnot, I guess this is a learning experience. It seems like the Antec fans I had assumed were garbage actually work pretty well on high speed, and aren't particularly noisy. Open to suggestion on 25mm fans, as I do not have the room to run a pair of 38s or 2 x 25 with a shroud. Sticking with the Antecs for the time being, also not happy with the awkward whine that comes from these SFFs.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sub50hz*


Blech, these S-Flexs blow as rad fans. this is my first foray into WC, so I hadn't paid much attention to static pressure and whatnot, I guess this is a learning experience. It seems like the Antec fans I had assumed were garbage actually work pretty well on high speed, and aren't particularly noisy. Open to suggestion on 25mm fans, as I do not have the room to run a pair of 38s or 2 x 25 with a shroud. Sticking with the Antecs for the time being, also not happy with the awkward whine that comes from these SFFs.


Sorry to hear that. Have a look on the first page of this thread. There is a list of the most popular fans being used by the membership. You looking for something with a high rpm, high CFM - noise is up to you.

The Coolermaster R4s are a popular fan ATM too.


----------



## sub50hz

I thought that while CFM was important, static pressure was more vital, no?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sub50hz*


I thought that while CFM was important, static pressure was more vital, no?


With some fans its hard to get that data,,, official specs are somewhat misleadingly optimistic at times.

SP is important but you will not find many 25mm fans with great static pressure. Most of those will belong to the 38mm beasts.

Jump in everyone if Im being too generalist here


----------



## tlxxxsracer

correct, youll get more static pressure from 38mm fans. the UK 3000 work great for me. when u get high cfm and pressure, noise increases. its preference from there if u want cooler temps and more noise or quieter system


----------



## sub50hz

I'd say that these Tri-Cools on high are about the noisiest I could have on while I sleep. Sadly, I cannot fit 38mm fans, as my initial effort included a pair of the 2k rpm UKs.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

fit a fan outside of the case, the rad then another fan inside? i did that, i can fit 2 3000s and 2 25mm shrouds.


----------



## sub50hz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
fit a fan outside of the case, the rad then another fan inside? i did that, i can fit 2 3000s and 2 25mm shrouds.

Possibly. At this point, I'm pretty happy where it's at, especially considering the TIM hasn't even had time to cure. Those 3Ks are loud, a bit too much so for my liking. When gaming at high volumes it's a non-point, but I need to sleep in the room where my sig rig is, since the guest bed has been taken over by my 2 dogs.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sub50hz* 
Possibly. At this point, I'm pretty happy where it's at, especially considering the TIM hasn't even had time to cure. Those 3Ks are loud, a bit too much so for my liking. When gaming at high volumes it's a non-point, but I need to sleep in the room where my sig rig is, since the guest bed has been taken over by my 2 dogs.









Off topic... Sorry, but I find your avatar..... disturbing


----------



## Ironwolf1974

sorry about the quality not the best, hope I did ok.

Running prime95 right now while doing other things, temps havent gone above 70c, avging out at like 63c. Overclocked 920 to 3.8 ghz.

Errr OK nevermind! How do I post pics, never have done it here.

Ironwolf


----------



## sub50hz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Off topic... Sorry, but I find your avatar..... disturbing










Just search around for Spagett, it might make more sense.


----------



## killerhz

go here and upload them. once they are uploaded copy the IMG link it gives you and post in thread.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sub50hz*


Just search around for Spagett, it might make more sense.


now Im even more disturbed


----------



## Ironwolf1974

[/URL][/IMG]

testing!


----------



## Ironwolf1974

It works!

And now to show you my horrible, horrible wiring skills...








[/URL][/IMG]


----------



## pcnuttie

you do have another fan on the back of the rad as exhaust?


----------



## Gustave

Quote:



Originally Posted by *uncola*


Ok guys, my bios says the pump is running at 1330 rpm.. do you think if I use a 3pin to 4 pin molex adapter on it, it would go to 1400 rpm? 
I just overclocked to 4GHz and load temps reach 95C with linux stress test. I had to stop the test and I'm about to try to lower voltages








edit: just ordered two gentle typhoon 1850's.


I had the same issue with a H50 on a Core i7 980X. Idle temp 25-28c, under load (Prime95) 100c. No good. Then I checked my H50 setup and I noticed that I had not properly seated the pump under the retentionring. I twisted it just another milimeter and it snapped in correctly. Result: idle temp the same, around 25-28c. Temp under load (Prime95) 70c.

I have the 980X at 4Ghz. Not too exciting.


----------



## ThaJoker

holy crapballs Gustave if im not mistaken your pc is one expensive beast. i'd hate to think your a Sunday driver with a Ferrari


----------



## eR_L0k0!!

my corsair h50, sorry for the bad quality picture xD
4GHz Q9650 temperatures ( 1,37v in bios )
31/33 degrees idle
full 54/60 degrees





recommended for fans to h50?


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sub50hz* 
Blech, these S-Flexs blow as rad fans. this is my first foray into WC, so I hadn't paid much attention to static pressure and whatnot, I guess this is a learning experience. It seems like the Antec fans I had assumed were garbage actually work pretty well on high speed, and aren't particularly noisy. Open to suggestion on 25mm fans, as I do not have the room to run a pair of 38s or 2 x 25 with a shroud. Sticking with the Antecs for the time being, also not happy with the awkward whine that comes from these SFFs.

The whine is from the pull fan. If you could just fit 1 shroud in front of that pull fan it would work much better and quiet down. You're comparing a 1600rpm fan to a 2000rpm fan. All else being equal, a 2000rpm fan will outperform a 1600rpm one. If you don't mind the increased noise there is nothing wrong with a Tricool.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

You want to higher cfm fan to be pushing and the lower cfm to pull. Shrouds on both sides help with noise and reduce the dead spot


----------



## Chicken Patty

Wouldn't that cause some turbulence? It would make more sense if both flowed the same?


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Yes, itd be better to have the same fan both in push and pull. In worst case if you dont, put the higher cfm in push


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
Yes, itd be better to have the same fan both in push and pull. In worst case if you dont, put the higher cfm in push

That sounds about right. But if you can have both the same, I'd say that's the way to go


----------



## pcnuttie

Mine is being shipped this friday! WHOO! I can't wait!


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
Mine is being shipped this friday! WHOO! I can't wait!


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
Mine is being shipped this friday! WHOO! I can't wait!

About time....


----------



## xquisit

I currently have CM R4s in push/pull for an exhaust fan setup. located in the rear of my case towards the top. I am thinking about using the R4s for case fans, and using a shroud + two better fans to move static pressure (correct me, if I'm wrong). I would like to know where the fans can be purchased, how much louder (if you have any exp. with R4s), and if they are built to last.

I had a friend apply my H50 for me, because he had prior experience with installation on his i7 920. He used ArticSilver5, and applied the TIM (thermal grease) to the CPU and spreading it out using a business card. He continued to apply the extra (additional) TIM left on the business card to the H50...now I'm thinking it might be possible he applied too much or the burn in period isn't done with...but I can't hit anything past 3.99GHz, and it's been three months since I've tried (and my computer was made on December 6th).

Can you guys give me some ideas? Maybe I hit a wall, or I need some lower temps! Any recommendations on TIM (sorry, I know I've asked before) and where to purchase?

P.S. I will be moving my push/pull setup to the front of my case (in the CD-ROM bay) and change it to an intake /w the possibility of adding two fan shrouds (if you recommend it).

Thanks for reading!


----------



## Defiler

OK. Right now I'm running a single Noise Blocker with no shroud (Pull/exhaust) and getting so so temps obviously.

Quick question that I am sure has been asked a number of times before but haven't found by searching FOR THIS PARTICULAR question...

Keeping noise, performance, and price in mind (in that order), what would be better?

2x Cooler Master R4-C2R-20AC-GP in P/P with shrouds for $20 shipped

or

2x Scythe D1225C12B5AP-15 Gentle Typhoons in P/P with shrouds for about $35 shipped


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
With some fans its hard to get that data,,, official specs are somewhat misleadingly optimistic at times.

SP is important but you will not find many 25mm fans with great static pressure. Most of those will belong to the 38mm beasts.

Jump in everyone if Im being too generalist here









*jumps in* it seems to me the R4s have the static pressure pretty close to what its rated at, as i use push / pull intake no shrouds, fans make no whining noises, and you can run them at full speed with not much noise involved (provided you dont try to shear the end of your finger off with them of course)


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Defiler* 
OK. Right now I'm running a single Noise Blocker with no shroud (Pull/exhaust) and getting so so temps obviously.

Quick question that I am sure has been asked a number of times before but haven't found by searching FOR THIS PARTICULAR question...

Keeping noise, performance, and price in mind (in that order), what would be better?

2x Cooler Master R4-C2R-20AC-GP in P/P with shrouds for $20 shipped

or

2x Scythe D1225C12B5AP-15 Gentle Typhoons in P/P with shrouds for about $35 shipped


GTs are the choice of alot of people , i personally have always used R4s and they work amazingly well for a 25mm fan under IBT my load temp only ever breached to like 47C after like .....60 runs lol


----------



## tlxxxsracer

The R4s work really well and dont produce alot of noise. I used them before I modded my h50. Was running like 35C as intake. I cant add anything about how they compare to GTs or Loons.


----------



## Defiler

OK. This makes it officially official.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Defiler* 
OK. Right now I'm running a single Noise Blocker with no shroud (Pull/exhaust) and getting so so temps obviously.

Quick question that I am sure has been asked a number of times before but haven't found by searching FOR THIS PARTICULAR question...

Keeping noise, performance, and price in mind (in that order), what would be better?

2x Cooler Master R4-C2R-20AC-GP in P/P with shrouds for $20 shipped

or

2x Scythe D1225C12B5AP-15 Gentle Typhoons in P/P with shrouds for about $35 shipped


R4s w/ shrouds









GTs w/ shrouds









H50 no shroud (single oem fan)









GTs are a bit quieter. With the GTs you are paying a premium for quality - bearings vs sleeve, better quality components.
.


----------



## ToxicAdam

So you gain 2 degrees using shrouds. Interesting..


----------



## Forum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Defiler*


OK. This makes it officially official.




























Im insanely jealous of that case


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


So you gain 2 degrees using shrouds. Interesting..


Hrm, no. You actually loose a little performance, it seems. With the H50 anyways.

H50 w/shroud (single oem fan)


----------



## Sethy666

*Overclock net Needs You!*

In early May, OCN will be defending our Chimp Challenge Folding Crown.

We will be facing off against the world's folders and we need all hands on deck!

If you are able and willing to fold for Overclock Net, please sign up. Even a few points can make a difference.

Your efforts will also assist in ground breaking medical research.

If you are happy to support us in this noble endeavor, please head over to the below page and sign up.

Thank you









May the fold be with us!

Quote:



http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...gnup-here.html


----------



## Chicken Patty

@ Defiler

That looks great bro


----------



## sub50hz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Forum*


Im insanely jealous of that case


Yeesh, that looks incredible.


----------



## CoolPrizes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 










*Overclock net Needs You!*

In early May, OCN will be defending our Chimp Challenge Folding Crown.

We will be facing off against the world's folders and we need all hands on deck!

If you are able and willing to fold for Overclock Net, please sign up. Even a few points can make a difference.

Your efforts will also assist in ground breaking medical research.

If you are happy to support us in this noble endeavor, please head over to the below page and sign up.

Thank you









May the fold be with us!

xD I think you got the wrong thread there...


----------



## Defiler

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Forum* 
Im insanely jealous of that case


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
@ Defiler

That looks great bro










Quote:


Originally Posted by *sub50hz* 
Yeesh, that looks incredible.

Heh. Thanks guys. I wish that Spitfire wasn't so big to show off the other painted cards a little better. Still debating on a few options to make them more visible though.

Thanks again for the kind words.

Here's one more with the side on.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Defiler* 
Heh. Thanks guys. I wish that Spitfire wasn't so big to show off the other painted cards a little better. Still debating on a few options to make them more visible though.

Thanks again for the kind words.

Anytime bro. What options are you debating to show off your cards a little more?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CoolPrizes* 
xD I think you got the wrong thread there...

No I dont matey... Im spreading the word


----------



## Defiler

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Anytime bro. What options are you debating to show off your cards a little more?

Well, the 250GTS (very bottom card) is the one with the huge heat sink (Spitfire) on it. I don't like how it covers everything up. But since this is the only cooler I could find that technically will let it fit in a single slot spot it's what I went with for now.

I could move it up to the next pcie slot and put the stock cooler back on (showing more of the other components) but it would block a lot of the airflow from the 5870's fan.

I might try it and see what the temps do. It would definitely clean the look up considerably.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Defiler* 
Well, the 250GTS (very bottom card) is the one with the huge heat sink (Spitfire) on it. I don't like how it covers everything up. But since this is the only cooler I could find that technically will let it fit in a single slot spot it's what I went with for now.

I could move it up to the next pcie slot and put the stock cooler back on (showing more of the other components) but it would block a lot of the airflow from the 5870's fan.

I might try it and see what the temps do. It would definitely clean the look up considerably.

It doesn't hurt to try, if the temps are not what you want just slap the spitfire back on and drop it down again


----------



## sub50hz

Why not just switch the cards' respective positions? Are the lower slots only x8?


----------



## ChrisB17

I am sad to report the H50 has been a disappointment in my rig. Pushing 4.2 ghz on my xeon is more than this can handle. Temps go above 80*c. I had to drop my OC down to 4ghz @ 1.25 vcore instead of my regular 4.2ghz @ 1.288 vcore.

I reseated twice with OCZ freeze and I have 2x ZM-F3 fans push+Pull on the rad.


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
I currently have CM R4s in push/pull for an exhaust fan setup. located in the rear of my case towards the top. I am thinking about using the R4s for case fans, and using a shroud + two better fans to move static pressure (correct me, if I'm wrong). I would like to know where the fans can be purchased, how much louder (if you have any exp. with R4s), and if they are built to last.

I had a friend apply my H50 for me, because he had prior experience with installation on his i7 920. He used ArticSilver5, and applied the TIM (thermal grease) to the CPU and spreading it out using a business card. He continued to apply the extra (additional) TIM left on the business card to the H50...now I'm thinking it might be possible he applied too much or the burn in period isn't done with...but I can't hit anything past 3.99GHz, and it's been three months since I've tried (and my computer was made on December 6th).

Can you guys give me some ideas? Maybe I hit a wall, or I need some lower temps! Any recommendations on TIM (sorry, I know I've asked before) and where to purchase?

P.S. I will be moving my push/pull setup to the front of my case (in the CD-ROM bay) and change it to an intake /w the possibility of adding two fan shrouds (if you recommend it).

Thanks for reading!


----------



## Gustave

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ThaJoker* 
holy crapballs Gustave if im not mistaken your pc is one expensive beast. i'd hate to think your a Sunday driver with a Ferrari
















Every once and a while I set up a new system. The introduction of the 980X, SATA3 and USB3, all at about the same time, was a good moment for a new machine. It's going to have to do for the next years. And you're right it is a beast. I haven't done serious OC'ing, though. The 980X is running at 4Ghz and the memory at XMP speeds.
I am playing with the C300 SSD's also. They are brand new but after some RAID0 stripe changes (from 256K to 16K and back) the performance degraded. I'm trying to figure out a way to get them in tip top shape again as a RAID0 setup. They are on a 3Ware 9750-8i SAS/SATA3 RAID controller. Maybe the Hyperfast tool of Diskeeper 2010 will do?

Well, cheerio


----------



## PCSarge

must...fold...24/7









i fixed my smp client! its on! and never turning off! along with my gpu client!

gpu= 7500ppd single GTS 250 on overclock to 900/2000/1200 (gpu/shader/mem)
cpu= 2300ppd ( its an E7400 and wont cooperate to 4ghz on this mobo, its currently at 3.8)


----------



## Defiler

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sub50hz*


Why not just switch the cards' respective positions? Are the lower slots only x8?


Correct, to an extent...wait a second. I think you just hit the nail on the head!

Looking at the pic below, starting from right to left, with the 16x pcie slots (blue) they are labeled slot x16_1, slot x8_1, slot x16_2, and slot x8_2. I just had the Phys-X card in the bottom slot because I knew it wouldn't matter if it was x16 or x8 for that card. But what you just suggested was something I just didn't think about.









I am logging off now to try. I hope this works!


----------



## Faisal11iraq

i sold my coolit eco to a friend before i get it







am really thinking about getting H50 "push/pull" with 2 thermaltake 120mm silent fans since it will be 100$ in total... do you guyz recommend it over air cooler let say Thermalright VenomousX ?


----------



## spacegoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xquisit*













You may have hit your wall for that chip. AMD's are not the best overclocking chips and it is hard to hit 4ghz with them. What are your settings at? Might want to open a separate thread for it too









After having x6 CM R4 fans in my old HAF932 case, I can say they are great fans. Although they do not operate at 90cfm at 19db, they are very quiet for the amount of air they move. They are actually quieter than Antec Tri-Cools on high (78cfm at 28db). The stock TIM is pretty good on the H50. It is Shin Etsu which is some expensive stuff. If you want some other TIM, try to find somw IC7 Diamond. I know Micro Center has it, but $20 a tube. There is a Micro Center in Tustin, which is not too far from LA (depending on where you live). Or some Arctic Cooling MX2/3. I would go for the push/pull pull as an intake. I have it set up like that with a shroud too. Temps are great for now, stays below 60C in prime95 and mid to upper 60's in LinX.


----------



## valtopps

is the corsair h50 the cheapest water cooler?


----------



## abba77

Quesiton regarding the mounting of the cooler/motor module. Most of the pictures show it orientated so that the corsair logo can be read the proper way. Can the module be also mounted in all the other positions through 90 degrees. e.g. logo writing bottom to top, upside down and top to bottom? hope this makes sense.

I'm wondering of this was possible so that the tubes would have the least stress as possible. i have an htpc case and the res/fan would be mounted exactly opposite the cpu. If the tubes where only 4 or 5 inches long, the tubes would go straight across with no turns whatsoever at the connections. having options for the orientation would make it possible to find the best tube positioning.

thanks.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:



is the corsair h50 the cheapest water cooler?


Im not 100% on this. I would say its cheap for how well it performs









Quote:



Quesiton regarding the mounting of the cooler/motor module. Most of the pictures show it orientated so that the corsair logo can be read the proper way. Can the module be also mounted in all the other positions through 90 degrees. e.g. logo writing bottom to top, upside down and top to bottom? hope this makes sense.

I'm wondering of this was possible so that the tubes would have the least stress as possible. i have an htpc case and the res/fan would be mounted exactly opposite the cpu. If the tubes where only 4 or 5 inches long, the tubes would go straight across with no turns whatsoever at the connections. having options for the orientation would make it possible to find the best tube positioning


Yes, the pump can be positioned on the CPU any orientation. I find it best to have it right side up or upside down because looking at the cpu and the copper plate for the h50 to be completely in contact with the cpu having it up right or upside down is best. Hope that makes sense. You want as much contact from the cpu and the h50 as possible. It also looks better having it either of those two ways









The thing if you mount it on the side window it will be near to impossible to ever remove it to open your case. The tubes are the most flexible but they are strong.

Hope this helps some


----------



## Defiler

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sub50hz*


Why not just switch the cards' respective positions? Are the lower slots only x8?


You sir, earned a rep!

I don't know why I didn't think of this from the get go but it works. I had some freezing issue initially but just uninstalled all the drivers (ATI and nVidia) ran driver cleaner and installed each card with drivers one at a time rebooting after each.

I think the result is MUCH better looking...but now I need to PC the 250GTS shroud and back plate.









What do you guys think?

EDIT: BTW I ended up ordering the Cooler Master R4s. At half the price ($18 shipped) I couldn't see spending nearly twice as much for a couple of degrees. Reps for the people who gave their opinions earlier!


----------



## abba77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 

The thing if you mount it on the side window it will be near to impossible to ever remove it to open your case. The tubes are the most flexible but they are strong.

Hope this helps some

thanks for the info. the problem is this case I have: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811112143

it was being used as the htpc in horizontal position at stock settings. i have an xps1710 laptop as my main computer. the i7 rig i would have liked to build will be delayed for now, hence thinking making the laptop the htpc and using the htpc as an overlocked main pc, probably standing vertically.

the problem is there are no 12cm areas for the fan/rad. I was going to mount it on the plate across from the cpu, the top as it were if keeping the case horizontal. the circular opening where the stock intel hsf sits in the optical drive cage may make it kind of tight for the tubes. I will remove the shallow filter cage from the top and make new holes to screw on the fan/rad to exhaust out the top push/pull. I will probably have to dremel out part of the cage to ease things.

i would have liked to replace the tubes with shorter ones but it does make sense opening the case may make it hard, unless i always unscrew the fan/rad first. also i dont think i want to mess with modding the h50, at least not now.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I say its time for some modding or a new case. LOL

Quote:

i would have liked to replace the tubes with shorter ones but it does make since opening the case may make it hard, unless i always unscrew the fan/rad first. also i dont think i want to mess with modding the h50, at least not now.
Why not?!







Its fun and very easy to do. Check my signature for my res mod tutorial.







Not to mention it looks alot better.


----------



## Bodycount

I have to some how figure out if i can continue to run my H50 pump off my aux 3 pin on the classified E760 motherboard. the aux 3pin header is the only one i can reach.

I think i read somewhere that the pump should always be run off the Power_Fan header

With it on the Aux fan header i can't tell if its running at 1400 rpms.
temps seem consistent and fine.

Any ideas or input on this OCN?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
I have to some how figure out if i can continue to run my H50 pump off my aux 3 pin on the classified E760 motherboard. the aux 3pin header is the only one i can reach.

I think i read somewhere that the pump should always be run off the Power_Fan header

With it on the Aux fan header i can't tell if its running at 1400 rpms.
temps seem consistent and fine.

Any ideas or input on this OCN?

meh, mine is on a case fan header, it doesnt matter really, mines about 1450 rpms (give or take 5) cause my motherboard software tells me speeds


----------



## Chicken Patty

For some reason when I switched my pump to a 4pin on the PSU my temps dropped a few degrees. Didn't pay attention to the pump speed but they sure did drop..


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


For some reason when I switched my pump to a 4pin on the PSU my temps dropped a few degrees. Didn't pay attention to the pump speed but they sure did drop..


Maybe the pump got the voltage required to run at full rpm from the 4 pin and the 3 pin didn't give it enough power.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast*


Maybe the pump got the voltage required to run at full rpm from the 4 pin and the 3 pin didn't give it enough power.


Pretty sure that's what it was. even if it's reporting the right speed off the motherboard I still say give it a shot with it hooked up to the PSU, helped me out so why not try it


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Pretty sure that's what it was. even if it's reporting the right speed off the motherboard I still say give it a shot with it hooked up to the PSU, helped me out so why not try it










I would but i have no adapters.and my local shops dont carry any 3-4pin extensions or adapters









The aux fan control doesn't show in bios


----------



## Ironwolf1974

After putting this H50 in my computer gets bluescreens all over the place. Set my bios back to base settings and regular memory settings and everything.

Have to keep going through system restore, Im having problems with the RAID array also.

Not sure what Im doing wrong. Any help would bbe greatly appreciated.

Monty


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ironwolf1974*


After putting this H50 in my computer gets bluescreens all over the place. Set my bios back to base settings and regular memory settings and everything.

Have to keep going through system restore, Im having problems with the RAID array also.

Not sure what Im doing wrong. Any help would bbe greatly appreciated.

Monty


Make sure that all the mounting ring tabs are
in there corresponding holes on the pump/block and that the feet
are flush with the motherboard.
if its a temp issue.

You can also double check all your stand offs to make sure your not shorting
aswell as doing a reseat of your cpu might do the trick if this is happening after clearing the cmos.
.


----------



## Ironwolf1974

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


make sure that the mounting ring tabs are in there corresponding holes on the pump/block


Done and done during installation, just checked it again, but its in there fit and right.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ironwolf1974*


Done and done during installation, just checked it again, but its in there fit and right.


maybe too tight? Board is bending?


----------



## Ironwolf1974

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
maybe too tight? Board is bending?

How do I check for that?

Also on another note, behind the board the wires are pretty tight back there.

Could that cause a problem?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ironwolf1974* 
How do I check for that?

Also on another note, behind the board the wires are pretty tight back there.

Could that cause a problem?

Try loosening up the bracket a little bit and see if the problem persists. What do you means the wires back there?


----------



## ToxicAdam

You tighten the screws all the way down. The springs provides the pressure.


----------



## looser101

Make sure your pump is running at ~1400rpm at all times. Power it from the psu with an adapter, if you have one.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
You tighten the screws all the way down. The springs provides the pressure.

I tried tightening mine all the way down it actually increased my temps so I think it's def. worth a shot since he's having issues anyways.


----------



## Ironwolf1974

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
I tried tightening mine all the way down it actually increased my temps so I think it's def. worth a shot since he's having issues anyways.

Loosened all 4 up a tidge and without being attached to internet have booted twice into windows...***


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ironwolf1974* 
Loosened all 4 up a tidge and without being attached to internet have booted twice into windows...***

So it's rebooted twice, or you have booted successfully? Did you try to overclock more when you installed the H50.

Have you also tried running memtest to confirm it's not a memory issue?


----------



## Ironwolf1974

Now when I reboot and get into windows only showing 4gb of ram...


----------



## Ironwolf1974

Rebooted it multiple times with no internet connected but only showing 4gb of ram, it will boot over and over again just fine now it seems.

Reset my bios to optimized defaults, still only 4gb of ram...

I must have messed somethign up horrible...

GARRRR


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ironwolf1974*


Rebooted it multiple times with no internet connected but only showing 4gb of ram, it will boot over and over again just fine now it seems.

Reset my bios to optimized defaults, still only 4gb of ram...

I must have messed somethign up horrible...

GARRRR


Pull all the ram out and try to boot with one stick at a time. Going through each one of them
to rule out hardware failure.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


I tried tightening mine all the way down it actually increased my temps so I think it's def. worth a shot since he's having issues anyways.


Not here. Bad seat.


----------



## Jo0

Is it possible to mod the H50 with 1/2" tubes? Is the pump strong enough to push through a 2x120mm rad with a gtx 285 in the loop? I'm interested in the H50 and I might pick it up if the pump is as strong as a D5 or a 655 OR if it can handle well in bigger loops.

The size of the tube doesnt bother me, I just want to know if I can use just the integrated pump for a CPU GPU loop with a 240mm rad and get great results. If I add a second card I'm sure I'll drop in a d5 just to speed up the flow.

Temps for me right now are about 40C idle and Load should be around 60-70C.


----------



## Ironwolf1974

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Pull all the ram out and try to boot with one stick at a time. Going through each one of them
to rule out hardware failure.


I tried that, still got random blue screens. Thought I had whittled it down to 1 stick, but then put one of the other sticks in, bam BSOD...

Im starting to think its the RAID 0 I have setup...

I dunno, so lost right now.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:

Is it possible to mod the H50 with 1/2" tubes? Is the pump strong enough to push through a 2x120mm rad with a gtx 285 in the loop? I'm interested in the H50 and I might pick it up if the pump is as strong as a D5 or a 655 OR if it can handle well in bigger loops.

The size of the tube doesnt bother me, I just want to know if I can use just the integrated pump for a CPU GPU loop with a 240mm rad and get great results. If I add a second card I'm sure I'll drop in a d5 just to speed up the flow.
you would have to get converters to the 1/2" tubing from 1/4". then it doesnt look good and defeats the purpose since u still have 1/4".
i dont think the pump can handle a gpu block. You can try and let us know







just the pump would be too slow to push the liquid quick enough.
i believe a 240 rad is going to be all you can change/add aside from a res.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
Not here. Bad seat.

Mine had a bad seat? Don't think so, not with the temps I was getting. Plus the spread was perfectly even.


----------



## valtopps

im thinking of getting a h50 and replacing it with my vendetta 2 but not sure if im going to see much improvement. on load im getting temps about 73c.


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spacegoast* 
You may have hit your wall for that chip. AMD's are not the best overclocking chips and it is hard to hit 4ghz with them. What are your settings at? Might want to open a separate thread for it too









After having x6 CM R4 fans in my old HAF932 case, I can say they are great fans. Although they do not operate at 90cfm at 19db, they are very quiet for the amount of air they move. They are actually quieter than Antec Tri-Cools on high (78cfm at 28db). The stock TIM is pretty good on the H50. It is Shin Etsu which is some expensive stuff. If you want some other TIM, try to find somw IC7 Diamond. I know Micro Center has it, but $20 a tube. There is a Micro Center in Tustin, which is not too far from LA (depending on where you live). Or some Arctic Cooling MX2/3. I would go for the push/pull pull as an intake. I have it set up like that with a shroud too. Temps are great for now, stays below 60C in prime95 and mid to upper 60's in LinX.


thanks +rep

I guess it won't hurt trying MX2 + adding a fan shroud..and changing my setup location..and moving it from exhaust to intake.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xquisit*


thanks +rep

I guess it won't hurt trying MX2 + adding a fan shroud..and changing my setup location..and moving it from exhaust to intake.


I have the 965 C3. 2 X shrouds and 2 X SFF21 F S-Slex 1600 rpm fans. I have this mounted as an intake in my spare drice bays which seems to give me the best temps.

At 3.8 ghz, 1.35 volts, NB 2600 mhz, RAM 1800 mhz, with ambient of 20 C, Idle is 27 C and load after 3 hours of Prime 95 blended is 43 C. There are many ways to mount this with shrouds in the drive bays. Some have used zip ties and "hung" the assemby from it, I have used screws through some of the holes in the side of the drive bay going into the shroud at either end. Works very well for me. As a tip, when using shrouds seal the small gap between the shrouds, fan and rad with a strip of duct tape. Let us know how your temps are like before and after. Mine dropped by about 1-1.5 C from the exhaust configuration. Here are some pics


----------



## valtopps

Quote:


Originally Posted by *valtopps* 
im thinking of getting a h50 and replacing it with my vendetta 2 but not sure if im going to see much improvement. on load im getting temps about 73c.

wonder where i can get an answer to this question? oneone had a ven2 or something close to it and then went to h50.


----------



## PCSarge

i'm getting tired of this... every time i change my sig it seems to not be liked by admins, "its too long" or "i dont like whats in it" or " stop putting in so many quotes"







wish theyd just let me be


----------



## sub50hz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i'm getting tired of this... every time i change my sig it seems to not be liked by admins, "its too long" or "i dont like whats in it" or " stop putting in so many quotes"







wish theyd just let me be


Well, it does take up the entire screen on my laptop. Sort of annoying.


----------



## PCSarge

thats because laptop screens are jokingly small? lol

anyways, time to shut down and do a pc dusting... its been about a month...my rad is probably full of **** lol


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


thats because laptop screens are jokingly small? lol

anyways, time to shut down and do a pc dusting... its been about a month...my rad is probably full of **** lol


I've had construction in my hosue for about a month almost everyday. Knocking down walls, here and there. Imagine how my PC's look LOL. My EVGA 3x SLI looks like I gave it a thin white coat of paint, in reality it's still the factory black color.


----------



## DE619

Guys I just got it in a push pull setup and it works amazing. I'll recommend this for anyone who wants to water cool with a big setup.


----------



## rck1984

Finally home after being stuck in Sweden for vacation... Damn vulcano in Iceland









Got my H50 installed now, as exhaust push/pull with 2 GT 15's, also got my i5 750 overclocked to 4.0Ghz and still finetuning a little. I have to push my Vcore up to around 1.38 for it to be stable.

But i am not happy with my temps.. on Max load (Intel burn) my hottest core is around 78c the other cores a few degrees less. I heared things about the TIM needing some time to cure, then temps would decrease a little more? is this true? and how much would this be? Also, should i try to put my H50 as intake? i have a Coolermaster HAF922 case with a 200mm exhaust on the top of the case. 1 more thing, i have made 2 shrouds myself from old fans, but i couldnt find any screws yet to attach them on my H50.

What do you guys think? the temps seem to high right? would it get lower after some days? with the shrouds installed? id like to get into the low/mid 70s..

What should i do?


----------



## paulo dourado

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rck1984*


Finally home after being stuck in Sweden for vacation... Damn vulcano in Iceland









Got my H50 installed now, as exhaust push/pull with 2 GT 15's, also got my i5 750 overclocked to 4.0Ghz and still finetuning a little. I have to push my Vcore up to around 1.38 for it to be stable.

But i am not happy with my temps.. on Max load (Intel burn) my hottest core is around 78c the other cores a few degrees less. I heared things about the TIM needing some time to cure, then temps would decrease a little more? is this true? and how much would this be? Also, should i try to put my H50 as intake? i have a Coolermaster HAF922 case with a 200mm exhaust on the top of the case. 1 more thing, i have made 2 shrouds myself from old fans, but i couldnt find any screws yet to attach them on my H50.

What do you guys think? the temps seem to high right? would it get lower after some days? with the shrouds installed? id like to get into the low/mid 70s..

What should i do?


do intake, a shroud will help 1 degree on the pushing fan and maybe 2 on the pulling one...

the TIM doesn't need any curing time


----------



## valtopps

Quote:



Originally Posted by *valtopps*


wonder where i can get an answer to this question? one one had a ven2 or something close to it and then went to h50.


im thinking of getting a h50 and replacing it with my vendetta 2 but not sure if im going to see much improvement. on load im getting temps about 73c.

why im i invisible to everyone?


----------



## rck1984

Quote:



Originally Posted by *paulo dourado*


do intake, a shroud will help 1 degree on the pushing fan and maybe 2 on the pulling one...

the TIM doesn't need any curing time


Cheers, will a intake make so much difference in temps then?


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Yes, having the airflow as intake will decrease cpu temps.


----------



## rck1984

I changed to intake now.. but i notice a annoying hummmmmmmmm from my case now, its probably the grill of the case i guess?


----------



## nasha

Quote:



Originally Posted by *valtopps*


im thinking of getting a h50 and replacing it with my vendetta 2 but not sure if im going to see much improvement. on load im getting temps about 73c.

why im i invisible to everyone?


maybe push and pull setup will give u good results.

For me, the original corsair fan in intake didnt cut the cake. So i have Ultra Kaze fan now, just intake setup. Idle in mid 30s. Load temps are high 50s.


----------



## rck1984

I have my h50 as intake now, with 2 GT15's.. My i5 750 on 4.0Ghz with temps in mid 70's.. I expected slightly better temps, have been trying to lower my Vcore or VTT, but my chip wil get unstable..










This is the lowest i can get with my current setup.. i still have the option to add shrouds tho, perhaps re-seating would help? Id like to add that i only installed the h50 this afternoon.


----------



## xquisit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


I have the 965 C3. 2 X shrouds and 2 X SFF21 F S-Slex 1600 rpm fans. I have this mounted as an intake in my spare drice bays which seems to give me the best temps.

At 3.8 ghz, 1.35 volts, NB 2600 mhz, RAM 1800 mhz, with ambient of 20 C, Idle is 27 C and load after 3 hours of Prime 95 blended is 43 C. There are many ways to mount this with shrouds in the drive bays. Some have used zip ties and "hung" the assemby from it, I have used screws through some of the holes in the side of the drive bay going into the shroud at either end. Works very well for me. As a tip, when using shrouds seal the small gap between the shrouds, fan and rad with a strip of duct tape. Let us know how your temps are like before and after. Mine dropped by about 1-1.5 C from the exhaust configuration. Here are some pics










great idea +rep

$110ish budget, and I was planning to save up for the ACER 120Hz 1920x1080 LCD...but at the moment it seems pointless, because I can't tell if my GPU setup will even get up to 120FPS at that resolution (and the settings I would prefer) on BC2.

It seems like it would be a great time to buy the old revision DeathAdder + a mousepad setup.. and try to figure out why I think my temps are too high...
---
Which fans do you guys recommend? I was thinking UK3000 + new case fans + an UltraViolet cathode







Are these fan easy to disassemble and put back together? I want to paint them with some fluorescent paint (I heard it's UV reactive).

Can I use the UK3000 in push or pull (whichever you guys recommend) and use another fan like an R4?

I also had a Delta fan in mind, but I heard they are loud :O and I do not have a fan controller. Doubt I can fit one with a fan controller (even if I do decide to buy one), in the CD ROM bay.

If anyone can recommend a great site to buy TIM + Fans + Paint + Sleeving (and tools if I need them) please let me know!


----------



## uncola

I have a Core i5-750 and I just upgraded from stock fan doing intake to two push/pull gentle typhoons doing exhaust.. and I upgraded my two case fans to higher rpm intake.. one on the side panel and one on the bottom front of the case.. my temps definitely improved.. but I still can't do 4GHz. either I raise the vcore and can pass prime95 tests but after about 20 minutes, all my usb devices stop working and it hits 85c.. or I lower my vcore and it can't pass prime95 tests but I can game for an hour without it crashing. I think I'm going to leave it at 3.6GHz


----------



## rck1984

So..

I got my H50 for a day now, and i am not sure what to think of it tbh.
I pushed my i5 750 to 4Ghz and i'm facing temps of:

Ambient: ~21c
Idle: ~40c and lower
Linx 10 runs on max: ~77c and lower
Prime95: ~72c and lower

1.38 Vcore / 1.30 VTT

Tried to lower my Vcore/VTT, but my chip gets unstable then.
Dont u guys think my temps should be lower?

LinX: 








Prime95 after an hour:


----------



## valtopps

well i found out corsair h50 owners are rude. i ask 5 time and never got a answer, ill ask one more time i have a vendetta 2 on a q9550 oc to 4.1ghz w/1.34v on load it gets up to about 73c. so i was thinking of getting a h50, will i see a big improvement over the vendetta 2. has any one used a vendetta2 or something similar and bought a h50 and seen an improvement?


----------



## rck1984

Quote:



Originally Posted by *valtopps*


well i found out corsair h50 owners are rude. i ask 5 time and never got a answer, ill ask one more time i have a vendetta 2 on a q9550 oc to 4.1ghz w/1.34v on load it gets up to about 73c. so i was thinking of getting a h50, will i see a big improvement over the vendetta 2. has any one used a vendetta2 or something similar and bought a h50 and seen an improvement?


Thats quite a specific question, its probably just a couple of people that used a Vendetta 2 before and using a H50 now. Dont think it has to do with being rude.

Besides that, i think ull have rougly ~70c on that voltage.. so not sure if its that much of a improvement.. then again, i never owned a Vendetta 2.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rck1984*


Thats quite a specific question, its probably just a couple of people that used a Vendetta 2 before and using a H50 now. Dont think it has to do with being rude.

Besides that, i think ull have rougly ~70c on that voltage.. so not sure if its that much of a improvement.. then again, i never owned a Vendetta 2.


 If you mod the H50, it is possible to achieve 65C or less as well.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
great idea +rep

$110ish budget, and I was planning to save up for the ACER 120Hz 1920x1080 LCD...but at the moment it seems pointless, because I can't tell if my GPU setup will even get up to 120FPS at that resolution (and the settings I would prefer) on BC2.

It seems like it would be a great time to buy the old revision DeathAdder + a mousepad setup.. and try to figure out why I think my temps are too high...
---
Which fans do you guys recommend? I was thinking UK3000 + new case fans + an UltraViolet cathode







Are these fan easy to disassemble and put back together? I want to paint them with some fluorescent paint (I heard it's UV reactive).

Can I use the UK3000 in push or pull (whichever you guys recommend) and use another fan like an R4?

I also had a Delta fan in mind, but I heard they are loud :O and I do not have a fan controller. Doubt I can fit one with a fan controller (even if I do decide to buy one), in the CD ROM bay.

If anyone can recommend a great site to buy TIM + Fans + Paint + Sleeving (and tools if I need them) please let me know!

I would not paint those fans, although you may be able to take them apart they will be hard to put back together. I have painted some 1650 yate loons before, and they were easy enough, but the UK3ks will be of a much higher build quality, not designed for pulling apart. I also painted my Antec BigBoy200 which featured metal C-rings instead of plastic ones, it took about an hour to get the clip back on, I would imagine the UKs to be a of a similar quality.

Also, even with a thin paint coat the paint will upset the balance of the blades, making the fan perform noisily and less effectively. This happened on my Yate Loons, and they are quiet and slow speed normally. I would really suggest you dont try this, especially on anything highspeed!

My personal recommendation for a fan choice would be a Feser Triebwerk 122, it moves a lot of air and has a large range of operating speeds. Using speedfan I run mine at 25% most of the time, and is barely audible, but when you crank it up to 100% it moves a whole load of air. However, it is 55mm thick, so not for everyone


----------



## Grim

Oh lord I want one!!!







.

They're SOO awsome.

Im not a member - but may I ask.
Which fans (if any) are better to use with these than the noctuas?


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


If you mod the H50, it is possible to achieve 65C or less as well.


...sorry for i am NOT with an Intel cpu, BUT, *IMHO*= it IS possible depending upon *:*

***the Ambient temp for within the pc's area being good & cool; 
***to have very Gooood Case Air flow or even having the case_side open for better cooling; 
***having goood Fan's for within the case to have a goood flow of Intake Air 
as well as Exhaust Air for the case....

...{ worst case problem is the heat from the video card(s) MUST be exhaust'd out 
to keep the inside_case temp down/low }...

...again, my 2







worth of an opinion/mentioning.....









mr-Charles .


----------



## novokaine

do i need to have a full water-cooled system to use this thing?

Or can I buy it just by itself and it will work,

I have my CPU overclocked to 4.0GHz, using the Megahalems Rev.B, and the temps are hitting a max of 74C, how much do you think the h50 would lower my temps?


----------



## pcnuttie

I got my H50 on the way, it'll be here Friday!







YAY!!


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *novokaine*


do i need to have a full water-cooled system to use this thing?

Or can I buy it just by itself and it will work,

I have my CPU overclocked to 4.0GHz, using the Megahalems Rev.B, and the temps are hitting a max of 74C, how much do you think the h50 would lower my temps?


Just buy it by itself and it will work since it is a closed loop. 
As for the temp drop from a Mega, I don't know. It will be a few degrees lower/higher depending on your case air flow and a lot of other factors.


----------



## spacegoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *valtopps*


well i found out corsair h50 owners are rude. i ask 5 time and never got a answer, ill ask one more time i have a vendetta 2 on a q9550 oc to 4.1ghz w/1.34v on load it gets up to about 73c. so i was thinking of getting a h50, will i see a big improvement over the vendetta 2. has any one used a vendetta2 or something similar and bought a h50 and seen an improvement?


The problem was you never really asked a question until your 4th post. You simply stated you are thinking of switching out your Vendeta 2 for an H50 and left it at that. No question of any sort, just a simple statement. Ask a specific question such as "If I switch from this cooler to that cooler will I see any improvements in temps?" or something along those lines. I dont think any one is being rude intentionally.

And to answer your question, I think you will see a good improvement if you set it up in a push/pull as intake.


----------



## PCSarge

i hate my luck!

my GTS 250 died on me, after my recent shutdown to do dust cleaning
so i took its heatsink, and put it on my 9600 GSO, and its hitting a max temp of 55C under full load,so its a win for the 9600, and a loss of 130$ on a gts 250...i am now ocing the 9600 GSO to make up some PPD i lost, so far its stock was 500/1200/700 (gpu/shader/memory) and my OC is at 810/1600/1000(gpu/shader/memory)


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *novokaine*


do i need to have a full water-cooled system to use this thing?

Or can I buy it just by itself and it will work,

I have my CPU overclocked to 4.0GHz, using the Megahalems Rev.B, and the temps are hitting a max of 74C, how much do you think the h50 would lower my temps?


I'm not sure if it's worth switching over. The Mega is a heck of a air cooler.


----------



## xquisit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


I would not paint those fans, although you may be able to take them apart they will be hard to put back together. I have painted some 1650 yate loons before, and they were easy enough, but the UK3ks will be of a much higher build quality, not designed for pulling apart. I also painted my Antec BigBoy200 which featured metal C-rings instead of plastic ones, it took about an hour to get the clip back on, I would imagine the UKs to be a of a similar quality.

Also, even with a thin paint coat the paint will upset the balance of the blades, making the fan perform noisily and less effectively. This happened on my Yate Loons, and they are quiet and slow speed normally. I would really suggest you dont try this, especially on anything highspeed!

My personal recommendation for a fan choice would be a Feser Triebwerk 122, it moves a lot of air and has a large range of operating speeds. Using speedfan I run mine at 25% most of the time, and is barely audible, but when you crank it up to 100% it moves a whole load of air. However, it is 55mm thick, so not for everyone










Finally, a response! +rep!

I will forget about adding the cathode + painting fans! I just want to buy a great TIM online (please link one, I currently have AS5..and my idle temps seem a tad high @ 36*C <17*230 = 3.9Ghz @ 1.462v>).

I will try to buy new case fans, and about 55mm thich fan.. I'm not sure that would fit in my CD ROM BAY /w a push/pull setup (doubt a shroud would be added as well). Do you recommend just buying two of the 55mm thick fans?


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xquisit*


Finally, a response! +rep!

I will forget about adding the cathode + painting fans! I just want to buy a great TIM online (please link one, I currently have AS5..and my idle temps seem a tad high @ 36*C <17*230 = 3.9Ghz @ 1.462v>).

I will try to buy new case fans, and about 55mm thich fan.. I'm not sure that would fit in my CD ROM BAY /w a push/pull setup (doubt a shroud would be added as well). Do you recommend just buying two of the 55mm thick fans?


Here is a good site to get TIM with free shipping.
http://www.svc.com/thermal-compound.html
Buy any you like. I think the best one is the MX-2 for $7.


----------



## imh073p

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


I'm not sure if it's worth switching over. The Mega is a heck of a air cooler.


I agree!


----------



## Xann27

Well, this thread is 750 some pages long, so i'll just ask away. Im looking into a pair of Enermax Magma 120s for a push/pull on my H50. currently i've got a stock corsair fan and some other 120mm fan (generic crap) on a push pull. so i KNOW the speeds are'nt the same, and this, i think, is lowering performance. My question is this; Does anyone have expierence with these fans? Enermax Magma 12cm. i like these fans because they are made to be taken apart. great for cleaning!

are these fans the best for performance/practicality? price isnt an issue. i got a $75 gift card from my work, so.... lol!


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xann27*


Well, this thread is 500 some pages long, so i'll just ask away. Im looking into a pair of Enermax Magma 120s for a push/pull on my H50. currently i've got a stock corsair fan and some other 120mm fan (generic crap) on a push pull. so i KNOW the speeds are'nt the same, and this, i think, is lowering performance. My question is this; Does anyone have expierence with these fans? Enermax Magma 12cm. i like these fans because they are made to be taken apart. great for cleaning!

are these fans the best for performance/practicality? price isnt an issue. i got a $75 gift card from my work, so.... lol!


Get two GT-15's if price isn't a issue. They have gotten most people the best results. That's what I would buy if I had the money. As for cleaning the fan, if you run them as exhaust I don't think they will get too dirty.


----------



## gqthedog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *valtopps* 
well i found out corsair h50 owners are rude. i ask 5 time and never got a answer, ill ask one more time i have a vendetta 2 on a q9550 oc to 4.1ghz w/1.34v on load it gets up to about 73c. so i was thinking of getting a h50, will i see a big improvement over the vendetta 2. has any one used a vendetta2 or something similar and bought a h50 and seen an improvement?

i can't speak on the difference between the 2 coolers but we have similar systems and my temps are high 50's low 60's under full load ( running @ 4ghz / 500 fsb/ 1.325 volts). i know this isn't exactly what your looking for but hope it helps


----------



## NCspecV81

I bought one for the lulz...seriously.


----------



## dvnczyk

I just ordered my H50. Can't wait to get it. I am so excited that my hands are shaking! Oh Gooooood!!!!!!


----------



## imh073p

Ya i just ordered one too, not for lulz though.... icanhasH50?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dvnczyk*


I just ordered my H50. Can't wait to get it. I am so excited that my hands are shaking! Oh Gooooood!!!!!!


Enjoy it daniel







You'll be glad you bought it!


----------



## ThaJoker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast*


Get two GT-15's if price isn't a issue. They have gotten most people the best results. That's what I would buy if I had the money. As for cleaning the fan, if you run them as exhaust I don't think they will get too dirty.


I hope your right i just orders 2 GT 1850's... i hope you speak the truth(specs look good though static pressure, cfm, dba). definatley painting them blue though. "Grey" really? what were they thinking.


----------



## PCSarge

sigh...everyone and thier GTs.....
one sentence on the subject : R4s are quieter, and have a 3.04mm/h20 static and 90cfm flow rate....so ha i win






























one more thing!

*sings* its the final countdoooown







lol


----------



## xquisit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast*


Here is a good site to get TIM with free shipping.
http://www.svc.com/thermal-compound.html
Buy any you like. I think the best one is the MX-2 for $7.


thanks + rpe


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ThaJoker* 
I hope your right i just orders 2 GT 1850's... i hope you speak the truth(specs look good though static pressure, cfm, dba). definatley painting them blue though. "Grey" really? what were they thinking.

Well I went for some Scythe Kaze-Jyuni slipstream 1900rpm 37dba 110CFM. And they are friggin awesome! Not loud at all! Have 2 of these in a push/pull shrouded exhaust setup. Temps with a 3.66 OC on my i7 920 1.144v

IDLE
37 34 34 34
LOAD/Prime95
58 56 56 55
I'm rather happy with the outcome of these fans along with the H50 cooler! I'm now tempted to hit 4Ghz because this chip and cooler are that good when together!


----------



## PovertyPanda

Just as a note for anyone looking to use a triebwerks fan. The screws that come with the fan have the wrong thread pitch to screw into our rads. So get ready to source your own.


----------



## Ivan TSI

Hi,i got one question, i will be using a H50 in push/pull with 2 Akasa Apache black as exhaust , and will be using 2xAsus HD5850 Direct CU, since those cards leave the hot air inside the case(Lancool K62) did they will hurt badly the performance of the H50??


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


sigh...everyone and thier GTs.....
one sentence on the subject : R4s are quieter, and have a 3.04mm/h20 static and 90cfm flow rate....so ha i win






























one more thing!

*sings* its the final countdoooown







lol


Delusional, as always.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI*


Hi,i got one question, i will be using a H50 in push/pull with 2 Akasa Apache black as exhaust , and will be using 2xAsus HD5850 Direct CU, since those cards leave the hot air inside the case(Lancool K62) did they will hurt badly the performance of the H50??


Mount the rad in the front drive bays (intake), if you have room. Those GPU's won't help. You can also try Push Pull intake at the rear. Those fans might be a bit slow for best performance.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Delusional, as always.









Mount the rad in the front drive bays (intake), if you have room. Those GPU's won't help. You can also try Push Pull intake at the rear. Those fans might be a bit slow for best performance.


Well after much internal debate on the fan issue, and after hearing all the claims, I decided to buy a pair of Ultra Kaze 2000 rpm to replace my nearly silent Sythe SFF21F 1600 rpm fans (which cost 50% more). To reiterate from my previous posts these are mounted with 25mm shrouds on either side of the rad in the spare 5 1/4 drive bays.

To my surprsie the fan noise is really not too bad. Tolerable actually and temps did in fact drop by another solid 2 degrees. Idle is now 24-25 vs 27 and max temp is now 41 C (run CPU at 3.8 Ghz 1.35 V, NB 2600 mhz 1.21 V, RAM 1800 mhz 1.7 V, ambient temp at 19 C). So overall quite happy. I think I may just leave this in. The last and final thing yet to be done is to lap the H50 and CPU. I've heard what are probably widly exaggerated claims for temp drops but realistically if I see another 1-2 C drop in max temp I'll be quite happy and will probably look to run my 965 C3 at 4 Ghz 24/7 (at 1.5 v that would mean my max temp should never rise above 49 C).


----------



## cjc75

Seems like I'm getting slightly higher temps then I expected with this H50...

Note Sig Rig for system details...

When running idle, stock CPU settings, with ambient room temp of around 70'ish; my CPU runs at about 36c - 33c, though with the A/c on continuously, these CPU temps go down by another 3 - 4 degree's... all this depending on which monitor you consult.

The Asus PC Probe II and Asus AISuite software both have temp monitor's which typically reads 5+ degree's higher then CoreTemp and HWMonitor; and in some cases the Asus monitors can read 10+ degree's higher then those others... so I'm not really sure which is accurate... CoreTemp and HWMonitor also typically do not work and read 0c on this motherboard, though Asus released a new BIOS this past week which I flashed too, and it looks like CoreTemp and HWMonitor are working a little better, but there is still typically a huge difference in temps between what they show, and what the Asus software shows.

Anyway, under load, at stock CPU settings, it runs up into mid 40's. I've seen it run as high as 46c while running 3dMark06; and with BFBC2 I've seen it run up 50+; at stock settings.

The H50 seems to be running my chip at only about 5c less, then the stock HSF that the chip came with! This chip (Phenom II x4 955BE/c3) is also seemingly very picky about wanting slightly higher voltages then my other Phenom II, which is the 940BE. Understandable that the 955 is a slightly more powerful chip but, I kinda expected a c3 revision thats only 200mhz faster, to be fairly comparable to the other if not running better...

I am running a pair of Cooler Master R4-L2R-20CR-GP Fans, in push pull, with a pair of 25m shrouds, in the following configuration...

<<fan<shroud<case<rad<shroud<fan<<

Arrows pointing in direction of airflow out the rear of the case, ventilating air under my desk... and yes, I know the 90cfm on these fans is debatable; but at the very least they should be comparable to a pair of Scythe Gentle Giants.

Originally I had the two shrouds combined into a single 50mm shroud but, that was getting in the way of putting my side panel properly in place with its two fans... So I moved one of the shrouds to the outside and didn't see much difference in Temps.


----------



## mayford5

Ok so I haven't been on oc.net for a while and I just found this thread. This is great. I didn't know this many people here owned the h50. I have seen a little difference for my h50 but what I needed it for the most was the Freezer 7 pro was way too big to fit on my board with the memory slots so close. I have an MSI GD70 and I couldn't put all of my memory in with such a big cooler. Found this at best buy Clearanced!! for $55 so I picked it up not really know anything about it. I do enjoy it. I have it push/pull and my unlocked core 720 idles about 32C and doesn't go above 48C at load. On the freezer it was about 39C idle and 55C load. Well I have seen some cool modding on here and I may try that but it can wait with me being happy with my temps and no oc to speak of right now. Thank you
Andrew


----------



## Xann27

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xann27*


Well, this thread is 750 some pages long, so i'll just ask away. Im looking into a pair of Enermax Magma 120s for a push/pull on my H50. currently i've got a stock corsair fan and some other 120mm fan (generic crap) on a push pull. so i KNOW the speeds are'nt the same, and this, i think, is lowering performance. My question is this; Does anyone have expierence with these fans? Enermax Magma 12cm. i like these fans because they are made to be taken apart. great for cleaning!

are these fans the best for performance/practicality? price isnt an issue. i got a $75 gift card from my work, so.... lol!



Well, instead of paying 16.99+ and Shipping extra, i just went to a local Fry's Electronics and bought 2 Magmas! yes, they actually had these in stock! first time ever they had exactly what i wanted. uber quiet, these are, and they move a great ammount of air!

but... im not really seeing any fluctuation in temps from the old Stock Corsair and stock Lian-Li fans i had before. my BIOS says they're running @ 1500RPM which is the correct specs. we'll see what happens when i cool down the room a bit.
its 60ÂºF here in salem oregon right now, so the window is open, and the room fan is blowing inside the case....


----------



## mmx+

So I'm planning on a 1450RPM Scythe Gentle Typhoon to go along with the H50 in a push configuration with a 120x25mm shroud...I have 2 120mm shrouds and exactly $100 @ Newegg to spend (gift cards), so is this the best configuration? Depending on space in my A05S, I may use the Silverstone fan I have currently or the H50 fan as a pull on the rad...possibly with another shroud


----------



## XtachiX

yay i've ordered the h50 and my brother has received it
he'll come back to my home country in a few days








i'll post pictures as soon as i mod the case (haf 922 which my brother has received already) and put the h50 in it


----------



## Reactions

I'm probably going to buy a H50 along with a Corsair Obsidian 800D to cool an AMD X6 1090T. I'm just wondering which fans I should buy, and how I should mount them (push/pull, intake, exhaust etc.) I've been looking at the Noctua NF-P12-1300, but since they're only running at 1300RMP they maybe wont cool that good as faster fans? I don't care about noise really since I'm playing with headset on anyways, just want to be able to overclock the 1090T to 4ghz or something at good temps. So summarized: Which fans should I buy and how should I mount them?


----------



## mmx+

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Reactions*


I'm probably going to buy a H50 along with a Corsair Obsidian 800D to cool an AMD X6 1090T. I'm just wondering which fans I should buy, and how I should mount them (push/pull, intake, exhaust etc.) I've been looking at the Noctua NF-P12-1300, but since they're only running at 1300RMP they maybe wont cool that good as faster fans? I don't care about noise really since I'm playing with headset on anyways, just want to be able to overclock the 1090T to 4ghz or something at good temps. So summarized: Which fans should I buy and how should I mount them?


I'd say buy either 1 or 2 Scythe GentleTyphoons and mount it in push (or push/pull if you decide to buy 2, but they're expensive) with a shroud as an intake in the rear fan spot of the 800D...there may be better fans, but I've only ever researched quiet ones (such as the Gently Typhoons







)


----------



## Wyldefang

Sign me up


----------



## SickStew

Hey my Wife will join.

Real Name: Sarah

Photos of her system:

































Great little cooler keeps her E7200 @ 4.0GHz nice and cool


----------



## Volkswagen

Some updated pics of my setup- now with some TFC shrouds with the front intake push and pull setup


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cjc75* 
Seems like I'm getting slightly higher temps then I expected with this H50...

Anyway, under load, at stock CPU settings, it runs up into mid 40's. I've seen it run as high as 46c while running 3dMark06; and with BFBC2 I've seen it run up 50+; at stock settings.

The H50 seems to be running my chip at only about 5c less, then the stock HSF that the chip came with! This chip (Phenom II x4 955BE/c3) is also seemingly very picky about wanting slightly higher voltages then my other Phenom II, which is the 940BE. Understandable that the 955 is a slightly more powerful chip but, I kinda expected a c3 revision thats only 200mhz faster, to be fairly comparable to the other if not running better...

I am running a pair of Cooler Master R4-L2R-20CR-GP Fans, in push pull, with a pair of 25m shrouds, in the following configuration...

<<fan<shroud<case<rad<shroud<fan<<


Somthing is most certainly wrong. HWMonitor will give you better accuracy then Asus. No way your 955 stock should be at those temps. See my previous post for 965 C3 temps at 1.35 volts. Have you checked temps with the side cover off? Might not be fully seated or TIM might be too much/too little or surface may have large imperfections. Is your pump running at approx 1400 rpm (make sure fan control if off on BIOS)?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reactions* 
I'm probably going to buy a H50 along with a Corsair Obsidian 800D to cool an AMD X6 1090T. I'm just wondering which fans I should buy, and how I should mount them (push/pull, intake, exhaust etc.) I've been looking at the Noctua NF-P12-1300, but since they're only running at 1300RMP they maybe wont cool that good as faster fans? I don't care about noise really since I'm playing with headset on anyways, just want to be able to overclock the 1090T to 4ghz or something at good temps. So summarized: Which fans should I buy and how should I mount them?

No question about it, go for the 2000 rpm Ultra Kaze at $10.00 each. They will beat out any 25mm fan for cooling and are fairly quite. Stay away from the 3000rpm version though, they are just too loud.


----------



## HandGunPat

Couple questions I got for you guys.
I was wondering could I use a different Rad, Such as a Danger Den 1x120MM Rad, and what barbs would it use? 
Should I use my Ultra Kaze (3000RPM) As intake and the Corsair fan for exhaust? I have air Intaking from the inside of the case and the Corsair fan Exhausting air out right now. 
Also, Should I do one Shroud on each side? or Just the intake? 
Here is a picture of the fan setup. 








Thankyou, HandGunPat


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:



Couple questions I got for you guys.
I was wondering could I use a different Rad, Such as a Danger Den 1x120MM Rad, and what barbs would it use?
Should I use my Ultra Kaze (3000RPM) As intake and the Corsair fan for exhaust? I have air Intaking from the inside of the case and the Corsair fan Exhausting air out right now.
Also, Should I do one Shroud on each side? or Just the intake?
Here is a picture of the fan setup.


You would need to use 1/4" barbs. Only because the barbs on the h50 block are 1/4".

Do you mean the kaze as the push and the corsair as pull? If so then yes thats fine.

You can use two shrouds on both sides. Eliminate the dead spot and reduce noise/turbulence.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Reactions*


I'm probably going to buy a H50 along with a Corsair Obsidian 800D to cool an AMD X6 1090T. I'm just wondering which fans I should buy, and how I should mount them (push/pull, intake, exhaust etc.) I've been looking at the Noctua NF-P12-1300, but since they're only running at 1300RMP they maybe wont cool that good as faster fans? I don't care about noise really since I'm playing with headset on anyways, just want to be able to overclock the 1090T to 4ghz or something at good temps. So summarized: Which fans should I buy and how should I mount them?


I havent seen alot of people reccomend my current fans I use on my push/pull shrouded exhaust setup. 
2x Scythe kaze Jyuni 1900rpm, 110CFM. There just brilliant, I have seen from feedback on this thread that exhaust is the way to go but at the same time there was speculation as to wether or not its better to have it as intake in the 800D case due to the cases stock coolin and airflow.
Av ganda about and see what temps you come up with Intake/exhaust, but defo reccomend shrouds its dropped 4 degrees off my total Idle/load temps!


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd* 
I havent seen alot of people reccomend my current fans I use on my push/pull shrouded exhaust setup.
2x Scythe kaze Jyuni 1900rpm, 110CFM. There just brilliant, I have seen from feedback on this thread that exhaust is the way to go but at the same time there was speculation as to wether or not its better to have it as intake in the 800D case due to the cases stock coolin and airflow.
Av ganda about and see what temps you come up with Intake/exhaust, but defo reccomend shrouds its dropped 4 degrees off my total Idle/load temps!

The reason is not for the CFM, but the reason is actually the static pressure. The smaller the fins, the lower the static pressure. Rads have higher amount of fins/inch so you need a more powerful, thicker fan.


----------



## Genome

Hello, I am new to the forums but plan on coming here often. I recently bought a Corsair H50 from best buy for $59.99 the sale that eludes most people. I wonder if I the Noctua NF-P12 x2 are a good match for the H50 in a HAF 922 case?


----------



## cjc75

Ok an update to my last post... as today I have some dramatically different outdoor temps compared to the past couple weeks...

Today, it is about 62F outside and my indoor Temps are around 68.

U-87, is running at about 27c right now, sitting about five feet away from an open window with the occasional cool breeze blowing through my room!

This, is indeed a dramatic difference as, this system is sitting 3 feet away from my Black Sparrow build which is running on the Xigmatek Dark Knight; and overclocked to 3.65ghz on 1.4v... and its idling at 38c while I'm typing this post!

So...

Phenom II x4 955BE/c3 at stock 3.2ghz, at 1.380v - Corsair H50 - CPU Idling at 27c.
Phenom II x4 940BE at OC 3.65ghz at 1.4v - Xigmatek DarkKnight - CPU Idling at 38c.

Yeah, big difference!


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cjc75* 
Ok an update to my last post... as today I have some dramatically different outdoor temps compared to the past couple weeks...

Today, it is about 62F outside and my indoor Temps are around 68.

U-87, is running at about 27c right now, sitting about five feet away from an open window with the occasional cool breeze blowing through my room!

This, is indeed a dramatic difference as, this system is sitting 3 feet away from my Black Sparrow build which is running on the Xigmatek Dark Knight; and overclocked to 3.65ghz on 1.4v... and its idling at 38c while I'm typing this post!

So...

Phenom II x4 955BE/c3 at stock 3.2ghz, at 1.380v - Corsair H50 - CPU Idling at 27c.
Phenom II x4 940BE at OC 3.65ghz at 1.4v - Xigmatek DarkKnight - CPU Idling at 38c.

Yeah, big difference!

Post the load differences.. that is what matters the most and plus you should see bigger differences that way. Do some LinX or Prime95.


----------



## Electroneng

Quote:

I wonder if I the Noctua NF-P12 x2 are a good match for the H50 in a HAF 922 case?
They are very good fans for the H50! Should drop temps 5-6c over stock.
You can also search overclock.net for many more options!

I like SH Yate Loons, others like gentle typhons,etc.

There are many great options to choose from!


----------



## s_stahl02

H50>Dark Knight


----------



## xquisit

I'm about to buy some new TIM (not happy with my temps & I don't know how the lapping process works and how easy it is) and wanted to buy two cases fans (using my R4s as case fans, and replacing the current two stock ones) + a new push/pull - intake fan setup (so I'm going from exhaust -> intake & rear -> front)..

Can you guys recommend any fans + TIM at a website or store you trust?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
I'm about to buy some new TIM (not happy with my temps & I don't know how the lapping process works and how easy it is) and wanted to buy two cases fans (using my R4s as case fans, and replacing the current two stock ones) + a new push/pull - intake fan setup (so I'm going from exhaust -> intake & rear -> front)..

Can you guys recommend any fans + TIM at a website or store you trust?

Thanks in advance!

Gentle Typhoon, Panaflo, Yate Loon are all good fans
Shin Etsu is very good TIM
I use Gelid Extreme TIM


----------



## Genome

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
I'm about to buy some new TIM (not happy with my temps & I don't know how the lapping process works and how easy it is) and wanted to buy two cases fans (using my R4s as case fans, and replacing the current two stock ones) + a new push/pull - intake fan setup (so I'm going from exhaust -> intake & rear -> front)..

Can you guys recommend any fans + TIM at a website or store you trust?

Thanks in advance!

Funny, I just ordered TIM and a fan at SVC got a deal on both but i am buying noctua fans to be used with my H50.


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Gentle Typhoon, Panaflo, Yate Loon are all good fans
Shin Etsu is very good TIM
I use Gelid Extreme TIM

What about UK3000? Also can I use a strong fan to push (or is it to pull?) and use a R4 to pull (or is it push?)?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Genome* 
Funny, I just ordered TIM and a fan at SVC got a deal on both but i am buying noctua fans to be used with my H50.

Really, what's the deal? Mind linking it


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
What about UK3000? Also can I use a strong fan to push (or is it to pull?) and use a R4 to pull (or is it push?)?

You can make a stronger fan to push the air through the rad, but you will get better temps if you use two fans that are the same. If you can't get two fans that are the same, make the stronger one push air out.


----------



## enkrypt3d

yea my rad is setup as exhaust now and I have lower temps on mine......


----------



## Genome

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xquisit* 
Really, what's the deal? Mind linking it









http://www.svc.com/g-751.html this is for the compound but there may have been confusion about the fans I bought a coolermaster R4 with the red led. That is on sale and all free shipping too!


----------



## xquisit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast*


You can make a stronger fan to push the air through the rad, but you will get better temps if you use two fans that are the same. If you can't get two fans that are the same, make the stronger one push air out.


Thanks + Rep

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Genome*


http://www.svc.com/g-751.html this is for the compound but there may have been confusion about the fans I bought a coolermaster R4 with the red led. That is on sale and all free shipping too!


Wonder if people re-seat their 5770s using TIM.. hmm, I guess one of them will do the trick.. or do you guys like to have extra, just in case something goes wrong? I will order two of those R4s + 2x UK3000s! Let's see if I can get hit 4.0GHz!


----------



## dvnczyk

Hey I'm getting my new H50 today. Do you think I should get new fans for it?
Thanks


----------



## Demon_panda

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dvnczyk*


Hey I'm getting my new H50 today. Do you think I should get new fans for it?
Thanks


yes!!!


----------



## dvnczyk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demon_panda*


yes!!!










Why do you think so? Which fans should I get? I want my pc as quiet as possible.


----------



## Demon_panda

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dvnczyk* 
Why do you think so? Which fans should I get? I want my pc as quiet as possible.

low temp makes me heppy








quiet fan
1.Noctua NF-P12 (1300 RPM 19.8 dB) and i like the color








2.Scythe GentleTyphoon (1850 RPM 28 dBA the 1450 RPM ones are 21 dBA)


----------



## michintom

Just ordered my H50


----------



## pcnuttie

I think we need to start providing links and shrouds to everyone to share on this thread so we can help each other to cool our processor. A nice cooled processor gets rewards especially in gaming or your favorite folding time. I can't wait til mine arrives then i'd have to go find some new fans and most of all shrouds at ace hardware but then again i do have some personal fans i could just use. Will have to do an experiment.


----------



## -=*HERO*=-

can someone post temperature differences between stock heatsink and h50, proof would be cool, but not necessary


----------



## michintom

Quick question...
I currently have 3 fans.
1. Off my Xigmatek Dark Knight
1000~2000 RPM
89.45 CFM
2. Off my case (Xigmatek)
1500 RPM
61 CFM
3. Off the corsair h50

If I was going for a push and pull setup, which fans would go where?
I was thinking fan 1 would be used as an exhaust and fan 2 as an intake.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *-=*HERO*=-* 
can someone post temperature differences between stock heatsink and h50, proof would be cool, but not necessary

don't think... just do it.... my temps folding are down 10+*C and that was with me using an aftermarket cooler the Arctic Chiller 7....


----------



## michintom

Oh yea...anyone go from a xiggy dark knight to the h50?
Hoepfully I won't have to remove my backplate....


----------



## NCspecV81

add me!


----------



## ThumperSD

Is it okay to use two different types of fans for a push/pull H50 set up?

I want to use a Yan Loon for the rear fan and a Cooler Master blue LED fan for the fan closer to the CPU.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ThumperSD* 
Is it okay to use two different types of fans for a push/pull H50 set up?

I want to use a Yan Loon for the rear fan and a Cooler Master blue LED fan for the fan closer to the CPU.

It is okay just make sure the stronger fan is the push. Just make sure there isn't a hugeeee difference in airflow between them or else the weaker fan will burn up eventually. Obviously the same fan would be the best though.


----------



## imh073p

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NCspecV81*


add me!











Dang thats hawt


----------



## BinaryBummer

If I was to buy a H50 and replace my existing Asetek LCLC 120 unit can I expect better OC temps, and if so by about how much?
So far with current SIG cooler I can't get above 3.2Ghz safely.
I have removed the unit and reseated it with fresh TIM and temps are the same.
I know the Pump in the H50 is better and the Base plate is a bit different. 
So I am wondering if this will be worth the money?


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*


If I was to buy a H50 and replace my existing Asetek LCLC 120 unit can I expect better OC temps, and if so by about how much?
So far with current SIG cooler I can't get above 3.2Ghz safely.
I have removed the unit and reseated it with fresh TIM and temps are the same.
I know the Pump in the H50 is better and the Base plate is a bit different. 
So I am wondering if this will be worth the money?


Usually people on an i7 D0 can get 4.2ghz stable on an H50 max so you should be able to get 4ghz with good ram

EDIT: Someone correct me if I am wrong.


----------



## BinaryBummer

I am figuring that it should work being so many OC'rs have this H50 unit. I have gobs of fans in this case so airflow is no issue.
I have 2 things that are priority one is a new SeaSonic x750gold and the other is the Corsair H50


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*


I am figuring that it should work being so many OC'rs have this H50 unit. I have gobs of fans in this case so airflow is no issue.
I have 2 things that are priority one is a new SeaSonic x750gold and the other is the Corsair H50


 What's wrong with your current power supply?


----------



## imh073p

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer*


I am figuring that it should work being so many OC'rs have this H50 unit. I have gobs of fans in this case so airflow is no issue.
I have 2 things that are priority one is a new SeaSonic x750gold and the other is the Corsair H50


The asetek isnt performing well enough? I thought the h50 was based from those.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *imh073p*


The asetek isnt performing well enough? I thought the h50 was based from those.


 It is, but I suppose they are different as well.


----------



## BinaryBummer

The H50 has a beefed up pump give aprox 15% better. For now funds are going to be tight being we are hoping to move so I need to get the PSU at least, then the H50.
If all is well I get both the same day.


----------



## Obito Ishii

Hello there...

This is my 1st post here, and i have absorbed a lot from this thread thank you all. I'll be setting up my h50 push/pull exhaust soon. Currently I'm running an single fan intake set up. Ill be using the Scythe 120mm Slipstream, along with the Kaze Master Ace fan controller. I'll be reapplying my thermal compound with Noctua NT-H1 (Friend had some left over after installing his Noctua D14). I'm also going to buy an additional 2 Scythe 120mm Slipstream for my side intake fans, for my Storm Scout.

Currently I'm getting ~36 c for idle, and ~ 55 for load oc'ed to 3.917. I'm looking to get my load to around 48-50. What would you suggest, to get me there, other than switching to conventional h20?


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Obito Ishii*


Hello there...

This is my 1st post here, and i have absorbed a lot from this thread thank you all. I'll be setting up my h50 push/pull exhaust soon. Currently I'm running an single fan intake set up.


You could try to do the push/pull fans as a exhaust to see if you temps fall a bit or rise. Yo umay get better results pending on your ambient temps.


----------



## Obito Ishii

Yeah, that makes sense. Depending on the ambient temps, I'll need to either make it intake or exhaust to get the best performance. I didn't even think about that, thanks master Raiden ^^


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
It is okay just make sure the stronger fan is the push. Just make sure there isn't a hugeeee difference in airflow between them or else the weaker fan will burn up eventually. Obviously the same fan would be the best though.

I bought this fan:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product

I was planning on using the stock Corsair fan as the intake and have the Cooler Master as the inside fan being an exhaust.

Will that work okay?


----------



## krescent

I just ordered two gentletyphoon ap-15s, but after reading something about >70CFMs being much better, I am considering cancelling the order. Should I stick with em or...

Would Corsair R4's do a better job? It seems the better ones are only in red/green with a slower one in [email protected] (i'd be sticking with blue).

EDIT: also, i like quietness







it says the r4 is ranked at 19db!! compared to the slower spinning, less cfm AP-15 at 28db...what's up with that?

Any better suggestions? blue or black a must!

my specs:

single asus 5850 directcu
asus p6x58d-e
i7-930
pc-k62 lancool with stock fans
rad inteded to be mounted at the rear in exhaust p/p

Thanks


----------



## Chicken Patty

I don't think you can go wrong with R4's. krescent. R4's and Gentle Typhoons seem to be the most popular choice.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *krescent* 
I just ordered two gentletyphoon ap-15s, but after reading something about >70CFMs being much better, I am considering cancelling the order. Should I stick with em or...

Would Corsair R4's do a better job? It seems the better ones are only in red/green with a slower one in [email protected] (i'd be sticking with blue).

EDIT: also, i like quietness







it says the r4 is ranked at 19db!! compared to the slower spinning, less cfm AP-15 at 28db...what's up with that?

Any better suggestions? blue or black a must!

my specs:

single asus 5850 directcu
asus p6x58d-e
i7-930
pc-k62 lancool with stock fans
rad inteded to be mounted at the rear in exhaust p/p

Thanks

Get the AP-15s. When against a rad the fan needs to be able to maintain cfm. The AP-15 can, most others can't. R4s are sound rated at their lowest speed. AP-15 is quieter, even though the R4 is not bad.


----------



## grendelrt

What do you think is more powerful, a GT 1450 (the 14 model not 15) or the stock H50 fan? I am going to try the GT 1450 first with the stock fan and wasn't sure which one to put as push.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *grendelrt* 
What do you think is more powerful, a GT 1450 (the 14 model not 15) or the stock H50 fan? I am going to try the GT 1450 first with the stock fan and wasn't sure which one to put as push.

Never tried the AP-14. I suspect it performs similarly to the stock H50 fan with less noise. I would be tempted to use the GT as the pull fan.


----------



## Defiler

Anyone try 140mm fans? I know this has been brought up before but I don't recall anyone actually using them.

I currently have GTs in P/P and the noise is more than I care to have. I am still trying rad placement, intake, etc. to try other options but would think 140 fans would be better or do they not provide the static pressure needed for rads?


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Defiler* 
Anyone try 140mm fans? I know this has been brought up before but I don't recall anyone actually using them.

I currently have GTs in P/P and the noise is more than I care to have. I am still trying rad placement, intake, etc. to try other options but would think 140 fans would be better or do they not provide the static pressure needed for rads?

I did. Didn't perform as I expected.
Use shrouds on the GTs to lower the noise level.


----------



## Defiler

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
I did. Didn't perform as I expected.
Use shrouds on the GTs to lower the noise level.

Which 140 fans did you try?


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Defiler* 
Which 140 fans did you try?

Noiseblocker PK-3. With and without a 120mm adapter.


----------



## Defiler

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Noiseblocker PK-3. With and without a 120mm adapter.

Wow! And those didn't help? Even with the gasket? I wonder why...


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Defiler* 
Wow! And those didn't help? Even with the gasket? I wonder why...









Wish I knew. Could of saved me some money. I would hazard a guess at static pressure, even if you funnel it down to 120mm. It wasn't a total disaster, just that it didn't perform better than a high static pressure 120 fan, so why bother.


----------



## Defiler

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Wish I knew. Could of saved me some money. I would hazard a guess at static pressure, even if you funnel it down to 120mm. It wasn't a total disaster, just that it didn't perform better than a high static pressure 120 fan, so why bother.

What was the dif in temps? I would think they were quieter, no?


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Defiler* 
What was the dif in temps? I would think they were quieter, no?

It's been awhile, but it was about the same or maybe a little higher temps. Best performance was with one corner of the fan screwed in a mounting hole and through bolts on the other corners in P/P.
Noiseblocker seems to sound rate their fans at lower speeds cause they are not quiet!


----------



## michintom

Anyone want to chime in?

I currently have 3 fans.
1. Off my Xigmatek Dark Knight
1000~2000 RPM
89.45 CFM
2. Off my case (Xigmatek)
1500 RPM
61 CFM
3. Off the corsair h50

If I was going for a push and pull setup, which fans would go where?
I was thinking fan 1 would be used as an exhaust and fan 2 as an intake.


----------



## The Viper

I bet 3/4 of this thread is related to fan questions.

Sound not being a concern, what is the best fans to use...Ultra Kaze 3000RPM?


----------



## Inraged Twitch

Akasa 12cm APACHE Black or there new viper is better imo.


----------



## The Viper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Inraged Twitch*


Akasa 12cm APACHE Black or there new viper is better imo.


yikes over $20 for one fan.

let me rephrase...what is the best performing fan, (sound aside) in a $10ish price range?


----------



## Defiler

Please tell me if this is normal. I don't think it is but I have seen stranger things.

Here is my setup: GT>shroud>Rad>shroud>GT> Intake from the front of the case.

System in sig. CPU running at 200x19 and 1.2V

I've reseated the block on the CPU three times, cleaning with Arcticlean and replacing thermal compound with T-C Grease 0098 each time. Once using the BB size dot in the middle (not giving good coverage), and twice doing the plastic wrap finger giving good coverage.

These are my temps:

Idle: 41,39,41,36
load (Prime95) max: 68,66,67,62

After every time I have reseated the block I consistently get 5 to 6 deg. (1st core to last) cooler temps on the last core. Is this normal?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Defiler*


Please tell me if this is normal. I don't think it is but I have seen stranger things.

Here is my setup: GT>shroud>Rad>shroud>GT> Intake from the front of the case.

System in sig. CPU running at 200x19 and 1.2V

I've reseated the block on the CPU three times, cleaning with Arcticlean and replacing thermal compound with T-C Grease 0098 each time. Once using the BB size dot in the middle (not giving good coverage), and twice doing the plastic wrap finger giving good coverage.

These are my temps:

Idle: 41,39,41,36
load (Prime95) max: 68,66,67,62

After every time I have reseated the block I consistently get 5 to 6 deg. (1st core to last) cooler temps on the last core. Is this normal?


Fairly normal. Its because either the CPU's IHS or the H50's base isnt flat.


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


It is okay just make sure the stronger fan is the push. Just make sure there isn't a hugeeee difference in airflow between them or else the weaker fan will burn up eventually. Obviously the same fan would be the best though.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *ThumperSD*


I bought this fan:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product

I was planning on using the stock Corsair fan as the intake and have the Cooler Master as the inside fan being an exhaust.

Will that work okay?



Somebody pls answer my question


----------



## Defiler

I would say yes. Although it's better to have the same fan on both sides but I'm sure you knew that already.


----------



## RIZLAA

hi ive had my h50 for a while now but never new this club was here. i was just wondering in push pull configuration if you had 2 different fans weres the best place to put the more powerfull fan in push or pull? thanks for any help greatly apreciated.

the fans are

1 stock corsair h50 fan
1 thermaltake cyclo

the max airflow of the thermaltake is 64cfm at 1500rpm, im not sure wat the air flow of the stock corsair fan is or which is the more powerfull, thankyou.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RIZLAA* 
hi ive had my h50 for a while now but never new this club was here. i was just wondering in push pull configuration if you had 2 different fans weres the best place to put the more powerfull fan in push or pull? thanks for any help greatly apreciated.

the fans are

1 stock corsair h50 fan
1 thermaltake cyclo

the max airflow of the thermaltake is 64cfm at 1500rpm, im not sure wat the air flow of the stock corsair fan is or which is the more powerfull, thankyou.

I would put the more powerful fan pushing. If I'm not mistaken that would be better.


----------



## RIZLAA

ok ill try that thanks for the info


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RIZLAA*


ok ill try that thanks for the info


No problem bro, just a few pages back I had this discussion with a member I believe he suggested it. If you want to look just to be sure


----------



## djsi38t

Just got my h50 in the other day.Got nearly a 10 degree drop from my xiggy dark night

with a scythe ultra kaze.I am absolutely thrilled!Less space and super quiet,I will never go back.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *djsi38t*


Just got my h50 in the other day.Got nearly a 10 degree drop from my xiggy dark night

with a scythe ultra kaze.I am absolutely thrilled!Less space and super quiet,I will never go back.


Another happy H50 user







Glad you like it so far bro


----------



## thx1138

I've had my H50 for about two weeks. Got it for $65 total at best buy couldn't pass it up. I'm not impressed. I love the fact it gives my case a cleaner more space look but the temps are EXACTLY the same as my $30 xigamatek 1284. I have it in push pull as an exhaust. I tried it as an intake (still in the same spot as exhaust just flipped fans around) and the temps went up. I know the fans arnt the greatest. I have the stock corsair which is 59cfm @ 1500 rpm (if I'm not mistaken) and a cheap rosewill 75cfm @ 1700 rpm. I was thinking about buying two super kaze's for $10 each on the egg and gutting my current fans for shrouds. I don't know though since I can't justify spending $20 for probably a 2-3c drop which isn't much IMO.

Some things to note, I used a grain of rice size drop of as 5 on my lapped phenom. I tightented it down pretty good since when I was researching regular water loops people said the tighter the fit the better the heat absorption. I also have a 32 cfm 80mm on the side of my case blowing almost right into the rad on the h50. Also on full load while folding my gpu temps are only 42c while my cpu temps are like 47c lol. My ambient is probably around 40f so its pretty cool out today. I'm wearing my jacket inside and have my window open to allow cool air to keep my rig under reasonable temps while I fold.


----------



## RIZLAA

yea checked a few posts back and it is the stronger fan that is meant to push thanks for the info shall give it a go and see what happens i get 26c at idle right now so ill see if theres a big difference


----------



## RIZLAA

yea i got my h50 about 10 weeks ago and its made a huge difference i mainly bought it for the low noise as i use my pc mainly for watching media which was excellent but the temps made a huge drop to, i dont really get the benefit with my p4 prescott after my q8600 brokedown but i have a new one ready to be fitted and looking forward to seeing how it handles that with an oc.

best buy so far in all my pc,s only 20 quid more than most high end air coolers but a massive advantage in cooling.


----------



## RIZLAA

when i first fitted the h50 i used some old cheap paste i had lying around about a week later i got some decent stuff and replaced the paste and it did make a noticable difference, and i didnt tighten it to tight just tight enough untill the screws started to bite dont wanna over tighten as its plastic.


----------



## thx1138

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RIZLAA*


when i first fitted the h50 i used some old cheap paste i had lying around about a week later i got some decent stuff and replaced the paste and it did make a noticable difference, and i didnt tighten it to tight just tight enough untill the screws started to bite dont wanna over tighten as its plastic.


Well the cheapo mounting system seems to be holding up so far. AS 5 is decent and its the same I used with my xigy so for comparison the xiggy performed the same as something thats double its price.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thx1138*


I've had my H50 for about two weeks. Got it for $65 total at best buy couldn't pass it up. I'm not impressed. I love the fact it gives my case a cleaner more space look but the temps are EXACTLY the same as my $30 xigamatek 1284. I have it in push pull as an exhaust. I tried it as an intake (still in the same spot as exhaust just flipped fans around) and the temps went up. I know the fans arnt the greatest. I have the stock corsair which is 59cfm @ 1500 rpm (if I'm not mistaken) and a cheap rosewill 75cfm @ 1700 rpm. I was thinking about buying two super kaze's for $10 each on the egg and gutting my current fans for shrouds. I don't know though since I can't justify spending $20 for probably a 2-3c drop which isn't much IMO.

Some things to note, I used a grain of rice size drop of as 5 on my lapped phenom. I tightented it down pretty good since when I was researching regular water loops people said the tighter the fit the better the heat absorption. I also have a 32 cfm 80mm on the side of my case blowing almost right into the rad on the h50. Also on full load while folding my gpu temps are only 42c while my cpu temps are like 47c lol. My ambient is probably around 40f so its pretty cool out today. I'm wearing my jacket inside and have my window open to allow cool air to keep my rig under reasonable temps while I fold.


Weird, I went from a Xiggy S1283 to the H50 and even with the stock corsair fan at 40% in push it dropped temps like 4-5Âºc. not sure why our results would vary so much









Quote:



Originally Posted by *RIZLAA*


yea checked a few posts back and it is the stronger fan that is meant to push thanks for the info shall give it a go and see what happens i get 26c at idle right now so ill see if theres a big difference


Great, good luck


----------



## rusty39

will this fit on a foxxconn destroyer mobo


----------



## The Viper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RIZLAA*


when i first fitted the h50 i used some old cheap


very nice triple post display, the edit button works pretty good also.

on another note...this thread moves so friggin fast peoples questions arent getting answered, lol


----------



## cjc75

I redid my H50 as an Intake, from the Rear...

Originally I had it working as Exhaust out the rear and was idling at around 36c with stock CPU settings, 3.2ghz.

Since I've changed, and had it running as Intake; I am now seeing an incredible drop in Temps!

I am now idling at 28c; with a 3.820ghz Overclock; and pushing 36 - 38 under average load, and up as high as 45 - 46c under extreme load!

Oh and, yes I have the proof...

5 hours, Prime95 Blend...


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Defiler

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cjc75*


I redid my H50 as an Intake, from the Rear...

Originally I had it working as Exhaust out the rear and was idling at around 36c with stock CPU settings, 3.2ghz.

Since I've changed, and had it running as Intake; I am now seeing an incredible drop in Temps!

I am now idling at 28c; with a 3.820ghz Overclock; and pushing 36 - 38 under average load, and up as high as 45 - 46c under extreme load!

Oh and, yes I have the proof...

5 hours, Prime95 Blend...


What are your ambient temps?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rusty39*


will this fit on a foxxconn destroyer mobo


yes, it brings the retention mechanism for basically all sockets.


----------



## Garanthor

cjc75 said:


> I redid my H50 as an Intake, from the Rear...
> 
> Originally I had it working as Exhaust out the rear and was idling at around 36c with stock CPU settings, 3.2ghz.
> 
> Since I've changed, and had it running as Intake; I am now seeing an incredible drop in Temps!
> 
> I am now idling at 28c; with a 3.820ghz Overclock; and pushing 36 - 38 under average load, and up as high as 45 - 46c under extreme load!
> 
> Oh and, yes I have the proof...
> 
> 5 hours, Prime95 Blend...
> 
> 
> What voltage and ambient temp? This seems about right. I have a 965 C3 at 3.8 ghz, 1.35 volts, with push pull intake from front using 2 shrouds and 2 X Ultra Kaze 2000 rpm fans. My ambient is 19-20C and idle is 26 with max after 3 hours prime 95 blended at 41 C.


----------



## michintom

Just installed my h50.
No pictures yet but my idle temps went from 51c to 42c


----------



## paleblue

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thx1138* 
I've had my H50 for about two weeks. Got it for $65 total at best buy couldn't pass it up. I'm not impressed. I love the fact it gives my case a cleaner more space look but the temps are EXACTLY the same as my $30 xigamatek 1284. I have it in push pull as an exhaust. I tried it as an intake (still in the same spot as exhaust just flipped fans around) and the temps went up. I know the fans arnt the greatest. I have the stock corsair which is 59cfm @ 1500 rpm (if I'm not mistaken) and a cheap rosewill 75cfm @ 1700 rpm. I was thinking about buying two super kaze's for $10 each on the egg and gutting my current fans for shrouds. I don't know though since I can't justify spending $20 for probably a 2-3c drop which isn't much IMO.

Some things to note, I used a grain of rice size drop of as 5 on my lapped phenom. I tightented it down pretty good since when I was researching regular water loops people said the tighter the fit the better the heat absorption. I also have a 32 cfm 80mm on the side of my case blowing almost right into the rad on the h50. Also on full load while folding my gpu temps are only 42c while my cpu temps are like 47c lol. My ambient is probably around 40f so its pretty cool out today. I'm wearing my jacket inside and have my window open to allow cool air to keep my rig under reasonable temps while I fold.

I had two Kazei-Jyunis on my H50 until a few days ago. they were almost silent but I was getting into the 70s on folding so i decided to throw on a pair of UK3000's i have here. I have a fan controller so it's super easy to adjust the hurricane to suit the need. I can turn them up and almost freeze the water in my H50







It's loud but hey - it's easy to turn back down. Nice to be able to crank them up when I'm leaving the room for a while.

They are in exhaust so they also help cool the whole case and I've got 3 GPU's folding in there too.


----------



## staryoshi

Here's a quick pick of my setup. Waiting for another HDD to come tomorrow, then the cables will be managed







Final pics will come later once it's pretty.

I don't have #'s offhand, but it's handling 4.0Ghz, 8 threads, and 1.4v without issue.

Push-pull scythe GT AP15s. I love the way these fans sound. Gentle-Typhoons are my go-to fans now.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *staryoshi* 
Here's a quick pick of my setup. Waiting for another HDD to come tomorrow, then the cables will be managed







Final pics will come later once it's pretty.

I don't have #'s offhand, but it's handling 4.0Ghz, 8 threads, and 1.4v without issue.

Do you have comparison temps with the stock fan and GT-15?


----------



## djsi38t

I am using the intake method,with two top fans this is indeed better than exhausting.And just the stock fan that came with it.left the original heatsink paste and my temps blow away what I got with a xigmatek dark night with an ultra kaze 3000.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast* 
Do you have comparison temps with the stock fan and GT-15?

I don't have the patience for that







I went straight to push-pull xiggies when I got my first h50, then moved to GT AP14s. I returned that one and have since gotten a new one on a new mobo running dual AP15s out of the box. I did run it with one AP15 for a bit, but did not bench it. The stock fan looks capable but I doubt it could achieve the airflow/noise ratio the GTs manage. It's not that they aren't loud, it's that the noise they make is easier on the ear, as they advertise. Also, I am a fan of mounting the H50 with the radiator exhausting up. The HAF922 is perfect for that.


----------



## M5Yates

If I use a pair of Delta AFC1212D-PWM fans (3400 RPM, 46 dBA, 113 CFM, 11 mm HÂ²O) with a pair of 38mm shrouds,
will the noise be bearable when the system is idling and the fans speed is modulated down to 1000 rpms?

Thanks,
Bill
PS System pics coming soon.


----------



## The Viper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *paleblue* 
I had two Kazei-Jyunis on my H50 until a few days ago. they were almost silent but I was getting into the 70s on folding so i decided to throw on a pair of UK3000's i have here. I have a fan controller so it's super easy to adjust the hurricane to suit the need. I can turn them up and almost freeze the water in my H50







It's loud but hey - it's easy to turn back down. Nice to be able to crank them up when I'm leaving the room for a while.

They are in exhaust so they also help cool the whole case and I've got 3 GPU's folding in there too.

what temps are you getting now with the UK3000s turned max...Im thinking im gonna pick up 2, but arent they 38mm thickness? Add some shrouds to that mix and how the heck am I gonna fit all that in my case, lol


----------



## paleblue

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Viper* 
what temps are you getting now with the UK3000s turned max...Im thinking im gonna pick up 2, but arent they 38mm thickness? Add some shrouds to that mix and how the heck am I gonna fit all that in my case, lol

Minus 273 Kelvin.

In fact they created a disturbance in the quantum gravity field surrounding my case which I think contains a black hooooooooooooooooooooole......

No seriously,







on max rpm (2760) according to my fan controller they sound like a vacuum cleaner at 20 paces but the temps are down to the mid-to-low sixties. They were peaking at 75-76 before. That's folding on 8 cores at 100 cpu.

The thing is the KJs (1200 rpm) were practically silent but I can turn these down to be just as quiet with the fan controller. And being 38mm with the bigger blades I think they put out more static pressure which is what the rad needs.

The only thing I've read is that they have sleeve bearings so may not last as long as better fluid or ball race bearing fans. IDC though - I'll replace them when they die. (If one dies the other is able to keep the temps down at safe levels just fine so no worries unlike the KJs)


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Viper* 
what temps are you getting now with the UK3000s turned max...Im thinking im gonna pick up 2, but arent they 38mm thickness? Add some shrouds to that mix and how the heck am I gonna fit all that in my case, lol

I have a fan that is a bit thinner in my case and found I had to cut the bolt back a bit or the other thing I used was one of those tie wraps that have the hole to screw mount it.
I simply cut those holes off for a spacer and they are black and perfect fit.
No more screwing into the Rad!


----------



## Demon_panda

Quote:


Originally Posted by *staryoshi* 
I don't have the patience for that







I went straight to push-pull xiggies when I got my first h50, then moved to GT AP14s. I returned that one and have since gotten a new one on a new mobo running dual AP15s out of the box. I did run it with one AP15 for a bit, but did not bench it. The stock fan looks capable but I doubt it could achieve the airflow/noise ratio the GTs manage. It's not that they aren't loud, it's that the noise they make is easier on the ear, as they advertise. Also, I am a fan of mounting the H50 with the radiator exhausting up. The HAF922 is perfect for that.

what were u temp 1.4v


----------



## Section_25

Just wanted to share a pic of my rig with the H50 unit installed. As the temps get hotter as the summer sets in I have found that directing cold air from a small window unit A/C toward the radiator helps alot with my idle core temps. My hottest core idles around 34c and max out just over 70c under load at my current overclock settings. I modded my case to accommodate the H50 radiator on the outside of my case (Just thought it looked better since my case is acrylic), and yes I do like blue LED's


















Quick Video:
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheSection25?feature=mhw4


----------



## kcuestag

Mate that look great







How did you put thre blue lights around the H50's "bracket" and then the light wire around the H50 tubes? Looks awesome!!!


----------



## Hellknight

WHOhooo i finally made it to the forums (not that i was hard though)..

Well, i joined basically because knowing how many ppl crazy ye have in these forums (dont get me wrong, this is in the good way) i wanted to know if someone ever had the idea of fitting the h50 or a custom h50 in a video card.

lookin forwad for ideas too as i might make this a proyect.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demon_panda*


what were u temp 1.4v


72C on the hottest core, high 60's on the rest. Ambient of ~22C Full Prime load. Runs cooler when the ambient is lower. This is with HT enabled, too. Will play around with it to get it stable at lower voltage, I think I have a little wiggle room. Just a little


----------



## Section_25

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Mate that look great







How did you put thre blue lights around the H50's "bracket" and then the light wire around the H50 tubes? Looks awesome!!!


I bought the LED flex strips off of Ebay for like $2 and just carefully wrapped them around the base of the pump. As far as the LED wires wrapped around the tubes, those were from a LED lit floppy cable that I wasn't using, so I cut the cable apart and stole the LED wire from inside









The pic I posted makes the LED's look way brighter than they actually are. Here is a short YouTube vid I made if you want to check them out in action.

http://www.youtube.com/user/TheSecti.../0/ESK6ckkE5Fs

Feel free to leave a comment if you wish... good or bad


----------



## tke395

Question guys what do ya'll think about these fans? looking at getting some for my triple rad and maybe push pull for my corsair. Isn't it good static pressure that we are looking for?

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Sanyo-Denki-...item1e5ba7e856


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Section_25*


I bought the LED flex strips off of Ebay for like $2 and just carefully wrapped them around the base of the pump. As far as the LED wires wrapped around the tubes, those were from a LED lit floppy cable that I wasn't using, so I cut the cable apart and stole the LED wire from inside









The pic I posted makes the LED's look way brighter than they actually are. Here is a short YouTube vid I made if you want to check them out in action.

http://www.youtube.com/user/TheSecti.../0/ESK6ckkE5Fs

Feel free to leave a comment if you wish... good or bad











If i were you, you could have used AC Ryan UV non-conductive paint and as long you have cold cathodes it could glow sweet or get one of these..

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g6/c...rip-Page1.html

or here.. http://www.xoxide.com/elwire.html and here.. http://www.xoxide.com/leds.html

Hope this helps your project a bit better. Looks nice but clutter job, You could do better with 
those wires!









Oh btw my H50 arrives tomorrow and i'm very excited!


----------



## Ivan TSI

Which fans will perform better GT AP15 or Akasa Apache Blacks?


----------



## Hellknight

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI*


Which fans will perform better GT AP15 or Akasa Apache Blacks?


Akasa apache fans lack either the high cfm or the air pressure to effectively cool radiators. In any case, high cfm fans without high air pressure will fail as the radiators often reduce fans ability to keep their claimed cfm trough the whole radiator body.

I would reccomend Yate loons, propper san aces, gentle typhoons (wichever their maker since they comply with the same specifications) or even cooler master excalibur or blademaster fans (the laters being worser since they are sleeve bearing but then again, have balanced cfm/air pressure). If you want to go hardcore and have high noise tolerance you could go with scythe ultra kaze single or push pull.


----------



## Ivan TSI

how much is the static pressure on the GT AP15?
i read somewhere that Akasa Apache's static pressure was 2.6 and that was higher than the GT, can someone confirm this?


----------



## Hellknight

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tke395*


Question guys what do ya'll think about these fans? looking at getting some for my triple rad and maybe push pull for my corsair. Isn't it good static pressure that we are looking for?

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Sanyo-Denki-...item1e5ba7e856


These are GOOD fans, somewhat noisy too.
He mentions the 38mm thick ones, i would go with those since the extra thickness tends to favour the static pressure meaning they are more capable radiator wise.

best wishes.


----------



## Hellknight

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI*


how much is the static pressure on the GT AP15?
i read somewhere that Akasa Apache's static pressure was 2.6 and that was higher than the GT, can someone confirm this?


Akasa pressure was 2.6 what? PA? mmh20?

As far as my experience goes the GTs static pressure is one of the best if not the best of todays market.

Assuming the 2.6 is in therms of mmh20 let me say this is a poor number for a fan going to face a radiator.

I have this for you: http://www.japanservo.co.jp/digital/...pdf/D1225C.pdf

earlier tke395 mentioned some san aces with 53Pa but 40Dba. Notice that the gentle typhoon D1225C12B6AZ-00 ones only are capable of 28Pa but also at 20 dba. Have in mind too that sound intenisty does NOT scalates linearly meaning that 40dba ia a LOT more noisier than 30 dba.


----------



## thx1138

Use the multi-quote and edit button. Theres a lot of people on this thread making multiple posts in a row....

Quote:


Originally Posted by *paleblue* 
I had two Kazei-Jyunis on my H50 until a few days ago. they were almost silent but I was getting into the 70s on folding so i decided to throw on a pair of UK3000's i have here. I have a fan controller so it's super easy to adjust the hurricane to suit the need. I can turn them up and almost freeze the water in my H50







It's loud but hey - it's easy to turn back down. Nice to be able to crank them up when I'm leaving the room for a while.

They are in exhaust so they also help cool the whole case and I've got 3 GPU's folding in there too.

Thanks I guess I will get the UK3000's. Do you have yours in an exhaust or intake configuration?


----------



## cjc75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Defiler*


What are your ambient temps?


My average Room Temps this past week have been around 68F, this is without my A/C running as average outdoor Temps have been around 65F - 70F. I anticipate that to go up to 80F+ as Summer rolls in so my indoor temps will start to get around 75F with the A/C on.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


What voltage and ambient temp? This seems about right. I have a 965 C3 at 3.8 ghz, 1.35 volts, with push pull intake from front using 2 shrouds and 2 X Ultra Kaze 2000 rpm fans. My ambient is 19-20C and idle is 26 with max after 3 hours prime 95 blended at 41 C.


Vcore is at 1.475v for 3.820ghz. Bare in mind that I am also having to underclock my DDR3-1600 Ram. Currently have it set in BIOS as DDR3-1333 and then using the CPU-NB (IMC) to OC that to nearly 1500.

I used the CPU Multi to bump the CPU to 3.4ghz. Then I used the CPU-NB (IMC) to bring it up the rest of the way.

My chip won't Overclock beyond 3.4ghz at 1.35v.

I have to crank my voltage to keep it stable if I want to go over that...

See here for more info on my current OC...

In fact in that pic that I posted on page 756; you can see exactly what my Voltage is at o my CPU, a sI have CPUz and Asus PC Probe II up on my screen showing the voltage.


----------



## paleblue

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thx1138*


Use the multi-quote and edit button. Theres a lot of people on this thread making multiple posts in a row....

Thanks I guess I will get the UK3000's. Do you have yours in an exhaust or intake configuration?


Mine are in exhaust and right now I'm folding on 8 cores at 100% cpu with the UK3000's at 1770 rpm and temps are 64-68C. I can hear them though - not too loud but definitely not silent like the Kaze-Jyunis were. I don't mind though I like the power.

One thing though, you might be able to find better fans than the UK3000s, they have sleeve bearings which aren't the best I've read.


----------



## ThaJoker

Hey guys QQ?

im running my h50 with 2x GT1850's @ max RPM and my i7-930 is running @ (according to my bios) 33c, but according to speed fan the avg is 20c. My questions are.... which do i believe bios or speed-fan?, are they good temps?, Re-seat?

cheers

EDIT: just DL'd Coretemp and it reads 32c


----------



## Garanthor

Vcore is at 1.475v for 3.820ghz. Bare in mind that I am also having to underclock my DDR3-1600 Ram. Currently have it set in BIOS as DDR3-1333 and then using the CPU-NB (IMC) to OC that to nearly 1500.

I used the CPU Multi to bump the CPU to 3.4ghz. Then I used the CPU-NB (IMC) to bring it up the rest of the way.

My chip won't Overclock beyond 3.4ghz at 1.35v.

I have to crank my voltage to keep it stable if I want to go over that...

See here for more info on my current OC...

In fact in that pic that I posted on page 756; you can see exactly what my Voltage is at o my CPU, a sI have CPUz and Asus PC Probe II up on my screen showing the voltage.[/QUOTE]

Your temps are not too bad then. A few tweaks you can do, which I'm sure you've probably read by now, are shrouds, better fans, position as front intake and lastly lapping (you probably already have MX2 or MX3 TIM). I found that after about 4 weeks my temps suddenly dropped by 2 degrees for no apparent reason. I think it might have been air in the pump or as a few have suggested the TIM settling a bit (I used MX2). In any case it will only get better from here.


----------



## t77snapshot

I would love to join the club!...add me to the list please













































------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
idle temps:










Prime95 load temps:


----------



## Ikthus

Hey guys I just setup push/pull on my rad and my idle temps went up 5C lol. I just want to make sure I have it right, both fans are supposed to be facing the same direction and pulling air in correct?

So it would be like this...

--Fan--> Rad --Fan-->

If anyone could clarify if this is right I'd appreciate it. I'm really stumped as to why my temps went up though


----------



## t77snapshot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ikthus*


Hey guys I just setup push/pull on my rad and my idle temps went up 5C lol. I just want to make sure I have it right, both fans are supposed to be facing the same direction and pulling air in correct?

So it would be like this...

--Fan--> Rad --Fan-->

If anyone could clarify if this is right I'd appreciate it. I'm really stumped as to why my temps went up though










Well it also depends on the positive/negative static pressure of your fan configuration in your case. Do you have top exhaust fans on your case?


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ikthus*


Hey guys I just setup push/pull on my rad and my idle temps went up 5C lol. I just want to make sure I have it right, both fans are supposed to be facing the same direction and pulling air in correct?

So it would be like this...

--Fan--> Rad --Fan-->

If anyone could clarify if this is right I'd appreciate it. I'm really stumped as to why my temps went up though










That's correct. I have mine push/pulling air out of case.


----------



## Ikthus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t77snapshot*


Well it also depends on the positive/negative static pressure of your fan configuration in your case. Do you have top exhaust fans on your case?


Not sure what my static pressure is but my Storm Sniper has a 200mm fan up top.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*


That's correct. I have mine push/pulling air out of case.


Thanks. I really thought I did something wrong lol.

Also I'm using the Corsair stock fan with the 140mm Cooler Master fan that came with the Storm Sniper. Tried to google the cfm/rpm for the cm fan but I couldn't find it.


----------



## PeaceMaker

So this would probably be very biased, but, should I get the H50? if so, should I buy anything else to mod it? I'm trying to buy parts ASAP. Thanks


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PeaceMaker*


So this would probably be very biased, but, should I get the H50? if so, should I buy anything else to mod it? I'm trying to buy parts ASAP. Thanks










All good on its own. I'd buy an extra fan for a push/pull configuration!


----------



## t77snapshot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PeaceMaker*


So this would probably be very biased, but, should I get the H50? if so, should I buy anything else to mod it? I'm trying to buy parts ASAP. Thanks











Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*


All good on its own. I'd buy an extra fan for a push/pull configuration!


Adding shrouds also makes a difference in temps.


----------



## PeaceMaker

what kind of fan would you suggest for a pretty quiet system? I will prob use an old fan as a shroud.


----------



## ThaJoker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ThaJoker*


Hey guys QQ?

im running my h50 with 2x GT1850's @ max RPM and my i7-930 is running @ (according to my bios) 33c, but according to speed fan the avg is 20c. My questions are.... which do i believe bios or speed-fan?, are they good temps?, Re-seat?

cheers

EDIT: just DL'd Coretemp and it reads 32c


sorry for the qoute but im new to OC'ing so yeah any answers?


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PeaceMaker*


what kind of fan would you suggest for a pretty quiet system? I will prob use an old fan as a shroud.


I'g get the Noctua NF-P14 fans!


----------



## cjc75

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 








Your temps are not too bad then. A few tweaks you can do, which I'm sure you've probably read by now, are shrouds, better fans, position as front intake and lastly lapping (you probably already have MX2 or MX3 TIM). I found that after about 4 weeks my temps suddenly dropped by 2 degrees for no apparent reason. I think it might have been air in the pump or as a few have suggested the TIM settling a bit (I used MX2). In any case it will only get better from here.

I have two Shrouds... and dual Cooler Master R4's which, have almost the best Static Pressure.









They preform on par, is not better, then the Scythe GT's; and they're quiet!

TIM at present is Shin Etsu!


----------



## reaper~

My H50 is coming next week.. reserve a spot for me. lol Hope it'll fit on a E760 Classified inside an Obsidian (yes, I've read that thread over in Corsair's forums about such mix







).


----------



## The Viper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cjc75*


I have two Shrouds... and dual Cooler Master R4's which, have almost the best Static Pressure.









They preform on par, is not better, then the Scythe GT's; and they're quiet!

TIM at present is Shin Etsu!


how do those R4s stack up against UK3000rms?


----------



## zu903

looking at this for a new build how hard are they to mod like add a res and 240mm rad


----------



## pcnuttie

They are not that hard but it will STINK if you take it apart. It's meant not to be taken apart because it's different from the others. But there are threads how to make mods for it. Does anyone know the tubing size on these? I am looking at UV Coils to add for decoration and i have no idea what size are those tubes on the H50 are? Are they 1/2 or what?

Btw Zu, what part of Kansas are you from?


----------



## Chicken Patty

t77snapshot said:


> I would love to join the club!...add me to the list please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those of you wondering, that is my old H50. Looking great !


----------



## Obito Ishii

Just a random off topic question. I just ordered the Scythe KM02-BK Fan Controller, and 4 Scythe "ULTRA KAZE" fans from newegg. I look up the tracking number to find the weight is 15.4 lbs ??? Are the fans that heavy lol? I know they package well but dang...


----------



## pcnuttie

Chicken Patty said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *t77snapshot*
> I would love to join the club!...add me to the list please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those of you wondering, that is my old H50. Looking great !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a P5N-T motherboard? You're so lucky, i have been looking for these for sale and they're hard to find LOL. What kind of fan is that? How much cfm does it have and are you setting it as exhaust?


----------



## cjc75

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Viper* 
how do those R4s stack up against UK3000rms?

Not sure, never tried those UK3000rms'...

All I know is that the R4's are rated with some of the best Static Pressure, which is most important for pushing air through a radiator... quite a few have posted their Static Pressure specs earlier in this thread.

Their CFM however, is rather debatable. Cooler Master "claims" it is 90cfm, but many believe its actually maybe around 65 - 75; either way its still good CFM!


----------



## paleblue

Quote:


Originally Posted by *zu903* 
looking at this for a new build how hard are they to mod like add a res and 240mm rad

I know people have done it but I would strongly advise against it. The H50 is built to a budget to compete with aircoolers which it does very well. The pump is incorporated into the cooling block and as such is a compromise design. It is not designed to drive multiple loops, longer tube runs or larger rads.

As an inexpensive, reliable, fit-and-forget system it is excellent. I haven't the faintest idea why anyone would mess with that when there are so many cool custom watercooling solutions available that ARE designed for all of that.

I'm looking forward to my next build where I will put together a custom system of hand picked components. There won't be any butchered H50 parts in there that's for sure, it'll all be shiny new anodized specialist parts.


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
What kind of fan is that? How much cfm does it have and are you setting it as exhaust?

I believe that's a Xigmatek XLF-F1253 120mm case fan with 61 CFM (linky). Also judging from the pic, he has it as an exhaust.


----------



## Hellknight

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Obito Ishii* 
Just a random off topic question. I just ordered the Scythe KM02-BK Fan Controller, and 4 Scythe "ULTRA KAZE" fans from newegg. I look up the tracking number to find the weight is 15.4 lbs ??? Are the fans that heavy lol? I know they package well but dang...

15.4 lbs, what did you ordered?







these are not the ultras for sure... hahaha


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
They are not that hard but it will STINK if you take it apart. It's meant not to be taken apart because it's different from the others. But there are threads how to make mods for it. Does anyone know the tubing size on these? I am looking at UV Coils to add for decoration and i have no idea what size are those tubes on the H50 are? Are they 1/2 or what?

Btw Zu, what part of Kansas are you from?

Yep, 1/2 inch


----------



## zu903

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
They are not that hard but it will STINK if you take it apart. It's meant not to be taken apart because it's different from the others. But there are threads how to make mods for it. Does anyone know the tubing size on these? I am looking at UV Coils to add for decoration and i have no idea what size are those tubes on the H50 are? Are they 1/2 or what?

Btw Zu, what part of Kansas are you from?

overland park, kansas city ks area


----------



## Section_25

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reaper~*


My H50 is coming next week.. reserve a spot for me. lol Hope it'll fit on a E760 Classified inside an Obsidian (yes, I've read that thread over in Corsair's forums about such mix







).


You shouldn't have a problem at all.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cjc75*


Not sure, never tried those UK3000rms'...

All I know is that the R4's are rated with some of the best Static Pressure, which is most important for pushing air through a radiator... quite a few have posted their Static Pressure specs earlier in this thread.

Their CFM however, is rather debatable. Cooler Master "claims" it is 90cfm, but many believe its actually maybe around 65 - 75; either way its still good CFM!










I have/have used the R4, Sythe S-Flex (1600 rpm), Apache, Antec Tri-cool and now the UK 2000. I can honestly tell you that the UK 2000 is the best for this rad. Noise is good enough that I'm keeping them over the S-Flex and I'm very picky when it comes to noise. I'd say that it's about the same as the R4 for noise. Static pressure and air flow through the rad is much better than any other of these fans period!


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Section_25* 
You shouldn't have a problem at all.

Cool! Thanks for the confirmation.


----------



## mayford5

I have been added but here is the proof. By the way they are 1/4" ID 3/8" OD 







I am waiting on my NZXT case so I can clean up the cabling and also will be happy when I have filters on my intakes. As of now my 900 is a dust vacume.


----------



## arbalest

*edit*

thought you had a waterblock in there... oops


----------



## denn_is

idle temps:










Prime95 load temps:








[/QUOTE]

hey bud i have the same CPU.. you have your vcore way to high for stock speed... you can bring that down to 1.28v. and be very safe stock it will help your TEMPS too...


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zu903*


overland park, kansas city ks area


Dude i'm close there.









Anyways my H50 is arriving today and it's out for delievery! Victory Dance!! It's raining today that's a sign of Mother Nature saying, give water! Lol!


----------



## chris14029

i have a set up where i have two 180mm intake fans in the front pull air in through a filter, a side fan that blows on my gpu, and the h50 with two fans on ethir side of the radiator blowing air out the back (push and pull). but i have a top fan its 160mm i want to put it in here but i want to know do i want it blowing air in or out i prefer out cuz my house is very dusty so dusty that after a week of owning the h50 i had it set up to pull air in from the back and into my case like it says but the radiator got filled with dust lots of it. so any ideas


----------



## DraganUS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mayford5*


I have been added but here is the proof. By the way they are 1/4" ID 3/8" OD 
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...g/DSC01477.jpg I am waiting on my NZXT case so I can clean up the cabling and also will be happy when I have filters on my intakes. As of now my 900 is a dust vacume.



That looks pretty good. 
Is that a mod with two rads or with res?


----------



## mayford5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *paleblue*


I know people have done it but I would strongly advise against it. The H50 is built to a budget to compete with aircoolers which it does very well. The pump is incorporated into the cooling block and as such is a compromise design. It is not designed to drive multiple loops, longer tube runs or larger rads.

As an inexpensive, reliable, fit-and-forget system it is excellent. I haven't the faintest idea why anyone would mess with that when there are so many cool custom watercooling solutions available that ARE designed for all of that.

I'm looking forward to my next build where I will put together a custom system of hand picked components. There won't be any butchered H50 parts in there that's for sure, it'll all be shiny new anodized specialist parts.


Not trying to burst your bubble but the results I have seen after modding the h50 were worth the extra $10 I spent to do it. And as far as the cool custom designs go. Have you seen the difference in price. I paid like $55 for my h50 on clearance. I will have spent about $70-80 when I buy my proper resevoir. Even if you don't get a great deal on it you will still spend less than the $250-$300 on a decent cutsom build. I am seeing temps on my unlocked 720be in the mid to upper 20's at idle and mid 30's at 100%load. Overclocked to 3.4ghz I am seeing 29-32 at idle and 40C at 100% load. It's not hard, It's not expensive, and if you do your proper leak and flow testing it isn't even dangerous.


----------



## DraganUS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mayford5*


Not trying to burst your bubble but the results I have seen after modding the h50 were worth the extra $10 I spent to do it. And as far as the cool custom designs go. Have you seen the difference in price. I paid like $55 for my h50 on clearance. I will have spent about $70-80 when I buy my proper resevoir. Even if you don't get a great deal on it you will still spend less than the $250-$300 on a decent cutsom build. I am seeing temps on my unlocked 720be in the mid to upper 20's at idle and mid 30's at 100%load. Overclocked to 3.4ghz I am seeing 29-32 at idle and 40C at 100% load. It's not hard, It's not expensive, and if you do your proper leak and flow testing it isn't even dangerous.


The only thing I didn't like with modding my H50 was space clearance in the pump. But after all nothing is easy. It was well worthed and it look way much better than the stock one.

Wondering if there is someone whos pump actually died so far?


----------



## mayford5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DraganUS*


That looks pretty good. 
Is that a mod with two rads or with res?


It's the radiator sandwiched between two Antec tricools. I have them set on hi so I am getting pretty good airflow. and a resevoir.


----------



## DraganUS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mayford5*


It's the radiator sandwiched between two Antec tricools. I have them set on hi so I am getting pretty good airflow.


Why are yous tubing under card? What do you have there?


----------



## The Viper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mayford5*


Not trying to burst your bubble but the results I have seen after modding the h50 were worth the extra $10 I spent to do it. And as far as the cool custom designs go. Have you seen the difference in price. I paid like $55 for my h50 on clearance. I will have spent about $70-80


can you give a breakdown on what you purchased?


----------



## mayford5

DragonUS: Well the Antec 900 doesn't have an tube holes so I had to run it out my unused expansion slot.

Viper: I bought some 3/8" barbs both brass and nylon 4 each. these were about $2 a piece but I returned the brass and 2 nylon because I didn't use them. I bought two 1/4" to 3/8" nylon. $1.50 a piece. bought two feet of 1/4" tubing at $.20 a foot and 4 feet of 3/8" tubing for $.25. And small zip ties at 1.45. A total of $9.85. So here is the deal. I couldn't get anyone to answer what ID and OD was so I had heard it was 3/8" ID 1/2" OD so when I took it apart I saw it was 1/4" so I took back the brass and two nylon barbs and bought the adapters so I didn't have to buy more tubing. so breakdown
2 nylon 3/8" at $4
adapters 1.50
tubing 1/4" here is $.20/ft but I paid $1.40 for all
and zip ties at $1.45


----------



## ricshan

Hello all. I received my H50 yesterday (woot-yah) and still after 2+ weeks of search/research I still can't deside on 2 fans for a Push/Pull, front intake setup. I swear I have never had so much indesision trying to deside on the ones to get. LOL Frankly a midget with a hand fan would be better than the stock fan I currently have. But I really want to get the best I can find for the new addition (H50) to my system. But from what I have gathered thus far is that:

Scythe 2000 RPM are good
Scythe 3000 RPM Ultra Kaze are good
Scythe 1850 RPM GT are good
Cooler Master R4 2000 RPM are good
Feser TK-122 1800 RPM are good

The Feser are the only ones I can't find in stock anywhere, and pricey though I think would be the best. What do you'all think?


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ricshan* 
Hello all. I received my H50 yesterday (woot-yah) and still after 2+ weeks of search/research I still can't deside on 2 fans for a Push/Pull, front intake setup. I swear I have never had so much indesision trying to deside on the ones to get. LOL Frankly a midget with a hand fan would be better than the stock fan I currently have. But I really want to get the best I can find for the new addition (H50) to my system. But from what I have gathered thus far is that:

Scythe 2000 RPM are good
Scythe 3000 RPM Ultra Kaze are good
Scythe 1850 RPM GT are good
Cooler Master R4 2000 RPM are good
Feser TK-122 1800 RPM are good

The Feser are the only ones I can't find in stock anywhere, and pricey though I think would be the best. What do you'all think?

Not on your list, but I'd get the Noctua NF-P14 fans!


----------



## The Viper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mayford5* 
DragonUS: Well the Antec 900 doesn't have an tube holes so I had to run it out my unused expansion slot.

Viper: I bought some 3/8" barbs both brass and nylon 4 each. these were about $2 a piece but I returned the brass and 2 nylon because I didn't use them. I bought two 1/4" to 3/8" nylon. $1.50 a piece. bought two feet of 1/4" tubing at $.20 a foot and 4 feet of 3/8" tubing for $.25. And small zip ties at 1.45. A total of $9.85. So here is the deal. I couldn't get anyone to answer what ID and OD was so I had heard it was 3/8" ID 1/2" OD so when I took it apart I saw it was 1/4" so I took back the brass and two nylon barbs and bought the adapters so I didn't have to buy more tubing. so breakdown
2 nylon 3/8" at $4
adapters 1.50
tubing 1/4" here is $.20/ft but I paid $1.40 for all
and zip ties at $1.45

thanks for that information...so basically you replaced the tubing? what kind of differences did that make?

EDIT: @ricshan-thats a solid list of fans...I also tried researching which fans to get, someone should stick a list like this to the main page. Anyways I decided to go with 2 Scyth UK3000, simply for the loud noise they make, jk...they move a ton of air. Oh yeah I made sure to get a fan controller also to control the jet engines


----------



## ricshan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gunderman456* 
Not on your list, but I'd get the Noctua NF-P14 fans!

Do you mean the Noctua NF-P12 1300 RPM? I had at 1 point had those on my list of posibles.

But I thought the CFM on the Noctua was lower than most.


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ricshan*


Do you mean the Noctua NF-P12 1300 RPM? I had at 1 point had those on my list of posibles.

But I thought the CFM on the Noctua was lower than most.


Go here to see what I mean;

http://www.dragonsteelmods.com/index...15516&Itemid=1


----------



## mayford5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Viper*


thanks for that information...so basically you replaced the tubing? what kind of differences did that make?

EDIT: @ricshan-thats a solid list of fans...I also tried researching which fans to get, someone should stick a list like this to the main page. Anyways I decided to go with 2 Scyth UK3000, simply for the loud noise they make, jk...they move a ton of air. Oh yeah I made sure to get a fan controller also to control the jet engines


I am seeing about a 5-8 degrees lower when idle with all four cores running at 3.4ghz and almost 10 at full load. My setup is pretty crude I took a 32oz bottle and modded it into a resevoir until I get the go from the accountant(aka my wife) to buy a resevoir thus the need for two 3/8" nylon fittings. The funny thing is all I did was cut out some holes and silicone the threads as I screwed it in. Then I siliconed around the fitting for an extra barrier. I haven't had one leak but for safety reasons and space the bottle is outside of my case. That is why I have the two hoses running through the unused expansion slot on my case. The flow isn't that bad either. I was expecting with the length of my tubes I wouldn't get more than a trickle. I was going to experiment with different lengths until I got it right but the flow is pretty decent. When I get my resevoir though I am going to cut them down a bit so as not to stress the pump. I will probably shorten other tubes that can be shortened becuase if you look at the pic the hose from the radiator to the pump/block is a little bent and long. I would like to get some of the tube coils so they don't get squeezed.


----------



## ricshan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*


Go here to see what I mean;

http://www.dragonsteelmods.com/index...15516&Itemid=1

@mayford5-There is a list of fans on the first page of this thread, if that is what you are talking about. I havent desided if I am getting a Fan controler or not.


More Info to assimilate. LOL I wonder how those would work with 2 shrouds (120mm)? Sence the fans would hang over the shroud at the rounded edges. Or am I looking at it wrong. I just wonder how the air would react at the edges of the shroud. I think I'm making a science project out of something simple. "not sending rockets to mars" I always tell my Son. LOL


----------



## pcnuttie

Does it matter which way you sit your rad? I seen a few pics in here some use their tubing to go UP and some go DOWN. Is there a difference? I just got my H50 and i'm doing research here. Gonna make it exhaust since i already have a antec tower and a extra fan







I will give the Shin TIM a try and see how it is compared to Artic Silver. I hope i'll see some amazing results!







Let me know which way i should set the tubes. Cuz i see too many different ways you guys put. Does it matter where the water flows? Get back to me asap.


----------



## abba77

probably better for the tube to be at the bottom. if there is any air then it wont get sucked into the loop.

also to anyone, please give more info on the shrouds. thanks.


----------



## pcnuttie

The shrouds are in this thread, you just gotta re-read the previous ones there is info on that. I think it's 1/4 not sure.


----------



## XtachiX

all this h50 talk is making me jealous
mine will arrive in 10 days!
then i'll post pics and stuff as proof


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ricshan*


More Info to assimilate. LOL I wonder how those would work with 2 shrouds (120mm)? Sence the fans would hang over the shroud at the rounded edges. Or am I looking at it wrong. I just wonder how the air would react at the edges of the shroud. I think I'm making a science project out of something simple. "not sending rockets to mars" I always tell my Son. LOL


As per my previous post get the Ultra Kaze 2000 rpm. They are about the same noise as the R4 but beat all those other fans mentioned in both static pressure and CFM (except of course the Ultra Kaze 3000 rpm which is just waaaayyyyyy too noisy!!!).


----------



## ricshan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *abba77*


also to anyone, please give more info on the shrouds. thanks.


Go to the first page of this thread scroll down to Usefull LInks "Ping's H50 Accessories" you will find links from there.


----------



## ricshan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


As per my previous post get the Ultra Kaze 2000 rpm. They are about the same noise as the R4 but beat all those other fans mentioned in both static pressure and CFM (except of course the Ultra Kaze 3000 rpm which is just waaaayyyyyy too noisy!!!).


Cool thanks a bunch for the info. I'll try to get some before and after pic's on my set up when fans and shrouds get here.


----------



## cjc75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *abba77*


probably better for the tube to be at the bottom. if there is any air then it wont get sucked into the loop.

also to anyone, please give more info on the shrouds. thanks.



There is plenty, and tons of info, about the Shrouds in the Links on the first posts of the first page, of this thread.

Thats where I learned all about them, for my setup!


----------



## cjc75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cjc75*


There is plenty, and tons of info, about the Shrouds in the Links on the first posts of the first page, of this thread.

Thats where I learned all about them, for my setup!


...and to, quote myself and make it easier for Abba...

From Post 1/Page 1!

Contagion's Fan Shroud + Push/Pull Testing

Ping's H50 Accessories

I just took, a pair of old 120mm Thermaltake Fans that I don't use anymore, and used my Dremel to cut them into Shrouds. I have it on on the rear of my case working in a push/pull as an Intake, venting out the front of my case...

air flow---> Fan>>shroud>>case>>rad>>shroud>>fan ----> air flow out front.

I am considering a minor mod with an additional fan on the front and cutting a length of PCB piping and using that as one long shroud/wind tunnel between the rear interior fan, and the front fan...

Not sure it would make much difference but it could, potentially push the hot air out of the case more thoroughly and swiftly...


----------



## XtachiX

so i've been wondering, should i get Delta TFB1212GHE fans for the push pull config?
what kind of temps will i get if i get this ultra high cfm fan?


----------



## The Viper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
The shrouds are in this thread, you just gotta re-read the previous ones there is info on that. I think it's 1/4 not sure.

I hope you werent inferring that he read all 750+ pages of this thread, that would be absolutely absurd (with the exception of page 1, everyone should at a minimum read that)


----------



## pcnuttie

LOL yea but reading all of it would gain more knowledge







Guess i gotta make a shroud if it's gonna help the airflow. Gonna get working on it tonight! I'm excited!


----------



## PCSarge

alas, my E7400 is being replaced tommorow morning, by a much faster, i5 750 and my old 9600 will be replace by a BFG tech GTX 275

i shall rebuild this old e7400 system into my old case, start it up, get it folding, and ignore it


----------



## t77snapshot

pcnuttie said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*
> 
> 
> Is that a P5N-T motherboard? You're so lucky, i have been looking for these for sale and they're hard to find LOL. What kind of fan is that? How much cfm does it have and are you setting it as exhaust?
> 
> 
> No. it's an Asus M3N-HT deluxe 780a board and the fan is a Xigmatek XLF-F1253 that pushes about 61 CFM.


----------



## fssbzz

hey guys, just got my H50 today.
and which way should set up the radiator and fan?

outside|case->fan->radiator->fan->inside|case

or

outside|case<-fan<-radiator<-fan<-inside|case

which one better?


----------



## Gunderman456

Air blowing out of case!


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*


Air blowing out of case!


that make more sense to me
but i watch the corsair youtube guide,
he use intake from outside


----------



## Gunderman456

Yes, which does not make much sense since one would be blowing hot air in the case.


----------



## mayford5

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
Does it matter which way you sit your rad? I seen a few pics in here some use their tubing to go UP and some go DOWN. Is there a difference? I just got my H50 and i'm doing research here. Gonna make it exhaust since i already have a antec tower and a extra fan







I will give the Shin TIM a try and see how it is compared to Artic Silver. I hope i'll see some amazing results!







Let me know which way i should set the tubes. Cuz i see too many different ways you guys put. Does it matter where the water flows? Get back to me asap.

I have run them both ways when it was a stock cooler. I have only run it with them at the top now that it is modded. When it was stock I didn't really see any difference in temps or anything else when at the bottom opposed to them being at the top. Hope this helps
Andrew


----------



## The Viper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gunderman456* 
Yes, which does not make much sense since one would be blowing hot air in the case.

thats how I have mine right now...but the back of mine is right against an open window for those cool summer nights. I do wonder how bad I am upsetting the natural airflow though, thats the only way I can see it making sense running it as exhaust out the back.


----------



## greyno3

Broke down and ordered the H50 from newegg tonight. I'm tired of the stock cooler.


----------



## pcnuttie

Is a shroud really needed? I know it'll make airflow better. I just made myself a shroud in case. I am gonna have to install this cooler tonight. I hope i will get exciting results


----------



## Gunderman456

If you have a shroud then use it. Refer to first page of this thread. Testing proves that shrouds improve airflow/temps.


----------



## Mastered

not that its any relevance to your club, i was thinking of gettin this, but im not sure how much further i really want to push the i5-750..im managed 4.00 with a cool master 212+

if anyone has a core i5-750+ h50 and managed more then 4.00 let me know, then atleast it would give me a reason to buy one and try it


----------



## mayford5

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mastered* 
not that its any relevance to your club, i was thinking of gettin this, but im not sure how much further i really want to push the i5-750..im managed 4.00 with a cool master 212+

if anyone has a core i5-750+ h50 and managed more then 4.00 let me know, then atleast it would give me a reason to buy one and try it









I have been told the 212+ cools better than a stock h50. I don't know I have never had a 212+ so I can't say yes or no. I did however have an AC Freezer Pro 7 rev2 and the h60 out cools it by about 8C.


----------



## fssbzz

what's the best TIM for H50 set up


----------



## Mastered

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mayford5*


I have been told the 212+ cools better than a stock h50. I don't know I have never had a 212+ so I can't say yes or no. I did however have an AC Freezer Pro 7 rev2 and the h60 out cools it by about 8C.


-sigh- the more i think about it..the more i want to push this chip.
thanks for the info


----------



## pcnuttie

I am the proud owner of H50. Unfortunately i couldn't use shrouds because it was simply too big on my motherboard and it would be difficult for me to add the cpu. cuz it'll block it.
But i have the H50 and i see a huge difference in temps. Way much more few degrees off compared to my Thermaltake Spin Q Man it took me 2 hours because i had to reinstall everything. "Easy to install" My arse! It was a headache cuz i was trying to make sure it sit tight lol. I decided to give the thermal a try that came with it and it's not so bad. One day i will take it off and put a different one. Here ya go!

Should have opened the panel first but was too tired. It's 3am and im finally on lol.





Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I set it as <---Exhaust--Rad<---Intake









"outside|case<-fan<-radiator<-fan<-inside|case" lol.


----------



## Hellknight

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fssbzz* 
what's the best TIM for H50 set up

There isnt, but i like using coolaboratory tims.


----------



## Hellknight

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mastered* 
not that its any relevance to your club, i was thinking of gettin this, but im not sure how much further i really want to push the i5-750..im managed 4.00 with a cool master 212+

if anyone has a core i5-750+ h50 and managed more then 4.00 let me know, then atleast it would give me a reason to buy one and try it









Then again, are you willing to spend bucks for some 100 or 200 mhz?


----------



## Hellknight

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fssbzz* 
that make more sense to me
but i watch the corsair youtube guide,
he use intake from outside























I would set up as intake, but thats only because i have a huge 38cm upper fan taking hot air out.

I must admit, however, that my 5870 is yielding me some problems as the hot air going out the grill of the card goes up and is being sucked be the H50 fans.

Yea, big thermodinamic failure, thats why im thinking to buy one of those silverstone cases with funky motherboard position.


----------



## Hellknight

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ricshan* 
Hello all. I received my H50 yesterday (woot-yah) and still after 2+ weeks of search/research I still can't deside on 2 fans for a Push/Pull, front intake setup. I swear I have never had so much indesision trying to deside on the ones to get. LOL Frankly a midget with a hand fan would be better than the stock fan I currently have. But I really want to get the best I can find for the new addition (H50) to my system. But from what I have gathered thus far is that:

Scythe 2000 RPM are good
Scythe 3000 RPM Ultra Kaze are good
Scythe 1850 RPM GT are good
Cooler Master R4 2000 RPM are good
Feser TK-122 1800 RPM are good

The Feser are the only ones I can't find in stock anywhere, and pricey though I think would be the best. What do you'all think?

DO NOT! by any means, buy the ultra kazes of 3000 rpm unless you really want to be deaf early, instead, search for the 2000 or 1000 rpm ones.

wich ones are the other scythe ones? The coolermaster fan you mention has some high cfm but i think their air presssure is WEAK wich is the most important here. I dont know about the feser.

ALSO, check all the scythe fans as they like using sleeve bearing and this kind of fan get really noisy with time and dust.

Best wishes.


----------



## The Viper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hellknight*


DO NOT! by any means, buy the ultra kazes of 3000 rpm unless you really want to be deaf early, instead, search for the 2000 or 1000 rpm ones.

wich ones are the other scythe ones? The coolermaster fan you mention has some high cfm but i think their air presssure is WEAK wich is the most important here. I dont know about the feser.

ALSO, check all the scythe fans as they like using sleeve bearing and this kind of fan get really noisy with time and dust.

Best wishes.


Ill go with performance over noise, anyways thats what a fan controller is for, a necessity with the UK3000s


----------



## DraganUS

Looks good pcnuttie,

@ Hellknight, use edit button.


----------



## PCSarge

well...meet my new sig rig, just got the i5 up and running, i must say even at 2.66 ghz stock speed it flies, ill oc after the TIM sets

sadly, i've given up on nvdia cards and have gone back to ATI, due to the fact that every nvdia card ive had besides my old 9600 GSO has burned itself out randomly


----------



## pcnuttie

Does anyone know what size are these tubes are? I'm thinking of ordering UV coils to wrap around them, I need some color cuz it's too dark in the middle of my case lol. are they 1/2 ?

I'm trying to find some cheap good UV Coils online and i see many but they cost 3.99 plus shipping would estimate 11 bucks for just one coil. Kinda crazy but i may get something to add anyways. I know it has to be 1/2 cuz the tube is small.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


does anyone know what size are these tubes are? I'm thinking of ordering uv coils to wrap around them, i need some color cuz it's too dark in the middle of my case lol. Are they 1/2 ?

I'm trying to find some cheap good uv coils online and i see many but they cost 3.99 plus shipping would estimate 11 bucks for just one coil. Kinda crazy but i may get something to add anyways. I know it has to be 1/2 cuz the tube is small.


 1/4"" id


----------



## fssbzz

my H50, modded by XinjaX


----------



## PCSarge

lmao... i randomly oc'd and got 4ghz no effort at 1.3vcore


----------



## The Viper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fssbzz* 
my H50, modded by XinjaX

thats awesome dude! A couple questions for you...what kind of drop in load temps did you get from stock? What was the cost to complete the mods?


----------



## ryman546

is there any difference mounting the radiator with tubes coming out the bottom vs the top?


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


is there any difference mounting the radiator with tubes coming out the bottom vs the top?


None.


----------



## ryman546

Trying to figure out if i should do PUSH method from the back of the case into the case. Place a scythe ultra kaze outside the case. then another inside the case..then radiator....essentially pushing hot air over to the huge fan on top of the case.

Right now i have a ultra kaze pushing air from inside the case through the radiator....getting about 52 at full load.


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


1/4"" id


Dammit i just ordered 1/2 OD coil. CRAP.. i wonder if it will wrap just fine?


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
Dammit i just ordered 1/2 OD coil. CRAP.. i wonder if it will wrap just fine?

Um... well besides being loose...


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
lmao... i randomly oc'd and got 4ghz no effort at 1.3vcore

Excellent! What are your temperatures with Linx?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


Excellent! What are your temperatures with Linx?


i hit a max of 53C on the hottest core, 45C on the coolest

sadly my radeon HD 5770 isnt supported by the beta gpu client for [email protected]

which makes me mad... i wont be cranking much out on the chimp challenge cause of it


----------



## pcnuttie

Where can i find 1/4 coils? UV! If someone finds it for me, you get a cookie


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Where can i find 1/4 coils? UV! If someone finds it for me, you get a cookie










Try here;

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/coolsleeves.asp


----------



## pcnuttie

I don't get it. isn't 1/2 inch small anyways? I know the tubes are small on the regular H50. I just wanna add UV and i know 1/2 should it. Where the heck would i find 1/4 inch? there is none unless someone got it wrong? I know it's 1/2!


----------



## spice003

my set up


----------



## looser101

@pcnuttie: 3/8" should fit well.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ath=59_399_748

@spice003: nice setup


----------



## PCSarge

the most important overclock stability test is the biggest question of all:

but can it play crysis on max settings?

my answer is yes, i jsut played 6 hours straight with a max load temp of 50C on the hottest core and the 5770 @ stock clocks crunched out 85fps, dropping to about 50fps on large explosions


----------



## Disturbed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spice003* 
my set up






what fans are you using?

Sweet setup


----------



## voodoo71

These here should work they are 1/4".
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=22303


----------



## neDav

I bought two H50's, and put one in a Thermaltake lanbox.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8423677

First off, I had to cut away at the top optical drive bay to get the H50 to fit. When I did this, I thought I sanded down the edges of my cuts well enough, I didn't.

After a couple of adjustments I made to my rig. the friction between the metal and tubing caused my H50 to spring a leak. Thankfully, I saw it before any damage was done.

So I replaced it my my spare, and put some rubber tubing around the edges of my cut. Now I had an extra, leaky H50 laying around. I decided to do the tube mod, it went good.

Now........, what do I do with my "new" H50......

Yes, I know it has no power supply in it, I shorted out my PSU trying to mod it. I have to use a regular psu externally for the time being.


----------



## chris14029

hey all i need your help 
i love the h50 and i want it to take me to 4ghz but i fear it can not
when i first got the h 50 my core's both read 35c on speed fan at 3.6ghz and stock volts(1.275) but after about a week my core 0 went from 35c idle to37-40c idle no changes where made it ruining with a push pull out the back of my case. since then i have tryed to use it the same way but as a intake but the temps stayed the same. so i moved back as a out take 
i now am running the same volts at 3.7ghz and core0 dles at 37 or 36c if im lucky. if not 39 or 40c and caps off at 53c while core 1 stays at 35c and never goes over 47c







....
so my questions are
1:why did the core 0 go up,
2:which one do i trust core 1 or core 0??? this is all with the thermal stuff that came with it and 3: ill as5 be better?
please any and all help is needed thanks much


----------



## PCSarge

chris id re-seat it with as5, i'm running ocz freeze on an i5 750 oc'd to 4ghz and its max load temp is 52c after hours of crysis and linpack tests also, make sure your pump is running around 1400 rpms anything lower tends to cause heat issues, as do video cards that exhaust into the case


----------



## chris14029

ok i will thanks but what happend to the temps
is the stuff it comes with crappy or something? im just making sure as i slowly raise my core that im not screwing anything up


----------



## Gunderman456

Different cores will show different temps as they will not be all crushing numbers evenly. Sometimes you will even have a lazy core and that core will hinder overclocking etc...


----------



## chris14029

ok so its a norm thing but what would be the the temp that is mostly true just so iknow and can keep a eye out?


----------



## PCSarge

if you screw up, your pc wil ltell you by BSODing or not booting to the POST screen, ocing is difficult on duo cores simply because the 1156 and 1366 boards are easier to handle, they offer more variables to work with, took me all of 5 minutes to stabilize this i5 at 4ghz, where it took me a half day on my C2D E7400, simply because the 775 socket mobos dont offer many options to change in the bios.

temp wise id stick to the higher number to be safe, especially on overclocking


----------



## chris14029

and pcsarge my pump seems to run around 1369 to 1400 is that ok and how do you change that if you can? and my gpu blows air out the back


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chris14029* 
ok so its a norm thing but what would be the the temp that is mostly true just so iknow and can keep a eye out?

Use two or three monitoring tools. My favorites are HWMonitor, Core Temp... and see if temps correlate.


----------



## PCSarge

the only way to really max your pump out, is to plug it direct to molex into your psu, which renders rpm readings impossible, but then you know its not gonna lose power, i control mine with the EVGA mobo fan utility, and i can say, dont put the H50 as intake if the video card blows out the back, because all it will do is suck that heat back in again


----------



## chris14029

i use speed fan and real temp and i have cpuz there all showing the same things


----------



## chris14029

yeah thats why i put it back as an out take it was going against every thought i had come to understand about air flow plus my house is DUSTY (thank god for my filter in my front)after one day of running it as an intake the damn thing was illed with dust


----------



## PCSarge

i use realtemp aswell, ill post you a screen of what mine idles at,yours should be like 10C lower if seated right, my e7400 idled at 21C


----------



## pcnuttie

Which is why i would recommend Exhaust<---Fan--Rad--Fan--Intake on the Exhaust rear not the front. So you can draw heat out. Plus the video cards will get air from intake fans in front of your case, so it's better not to block the airflow and create a pressure which can ruin the airflow's route.

BTW how do yours IDLE at 21c? Are you using the same thing as i am or different fans? Care to post pics of your set up?


----------



## chris14029

please do so i will re seat it with as5 and see what i get thanks very much guys


----------



## pcnuttie

Ohh yea i agree, you're not alone. I have dust in my house too unfortunately. I hope when i get a new apartment it'll be dust free so i can live in a dust free area cuz i hate working hard to keep it clean and i'm allergic to dust too lol.


----------



## PCSarge

here it is, and yes, if your wondering why my desktop is pink, you can probably guess why.


----------



## chris14029

i live in the hill country of texas so not only i am allergic to evry thing but hte dust to 
haha pink thanks again


----------



## PCSarge

no problem, just ask, if i'm here ill gladly answer questions


----------



## chris14029

what do you have your thermal stuff as as5? mt2-3?


----------



## pcnuttie

You're a girl?







I think that's rad and i think it's awesome chicks like to build pc too. It's such a cool thing to see around here. Not many people believe me ladies can mod PC too







Good temps and i do have something close to yours just a tad bit lower. I have seen it go lower depending on room temp. Like this morning it was like 72F which is rad! I can't wait til summer starts so i can crank the AC lol. Here's mine.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


what do you have your thermal stuff as as5? mt2-3?


chris, i use OCZ Freeze, i'm not a fan of as5 or mx-3


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


You're a girl?







I think that's rad and i think it's awesome chicks like to build pc too. It's such a cool thing to see around here. Not many people believe me ladies can mod PC too







Good temps and i do have something close to yours just a tad bit lower. I have seen it go lower depending on room temp. Like this morning it was like 72F which is rad! I can't wait til summer starts so i can crank the AC lol. Here's mine.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


nuttie, i happen to have my tower 2 feet to the right of a heating vent thats blowing hot air atm, when the ac is on, my pc will be like a refrigerator
oh and P.S: desktop icons fail, use the quicklaunch bar
i bet i randomly get flagged for trolling by admins again, they seem to not like girls, either that, or they dont believe i am one


----------



## chris14029

lol


----------



## chris14029

wait so before i do this we all agree that as5 will be better then the stuff the h 50 comes with right(after the as5 sets of cource) and how much /little do i put on? and do i let it spred it self or what?


----------



## PCSarge

on another note, i've gone back to ATI video cards after 2 recent fails i had for nvdia cards, i bought a 9800 gtx+ that melted itself into my old motherboard (which was a P5N-D) and another card that stopped working after i cleaned the dust out of it (a GTS 250) so i got this xfx radeon 5770...and i can say... im impressed with how quiet the fan is lmao nvdia cards sound like wind tunnels


----------



## pcnuttie

"P.S: desktop icons fail, use the quicklaunch bar"

I like this girl







lol.

I guess i'll give quick launch a try. Guess it'd be nice to keep a desktop clean lol.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


wait so before i do this we all agree that as5 will be better then the stuff the h 50 comes with right(after the as5 sets of cource) and how mucj /little do i put on?


spread just enough of it out on your cpu with a plastic card, thats all i did


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


wait so before i do this we all agree that as5 will be better then the stuff the h 50 comes with right(after the as5 sets of cource) and how much /little do i put on? and do i let it spred it self or what?


You're actually wrong you know? Have you read the whole thread? It really works well, the thermal that comes on the H50. It's very good. I even have low temps. Sure Artic Silver 5 is great too.


----------



## pcnuttie

Oh PCSarge, i have the same motherboard as you do


----------



## chris14029

well now i dont know what to do but it should have lower idle temps right?


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


spread just enough of it out on your cpu with a plastic card, thats all i did


You wanna make sure it's not a big mess, a simple pea size drop then smooth it out and make sure it's THIN! You can google how to apply thermal on YouTube and it would help you.


----------



## PCSarge

correction nuttie, i had that board, it melted down with the 9800gtx+ i'm running my sig rig now

and no the as5 is not better, but the shin etsu thats on there is horribly thick, it does cause problems for some users


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


"P.S: desktop icons fail, use the quicklaunch bar"

I like this girl







lol.

I guess i'll give quick launch a try. Guess it'd be nice to keep a desktop clean lol.


the recycle bin is also removable from the desktop


----------



## chris14029

ok f it ill do it and if its worse ill order some other stuff


----------



## chris14029

yay another all nighter


----------



## PCSarge

lmao, ocz freeze works better than that shin etsu did for me pcnuttie, mind you ocz freeze is a real good TIM lmao


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


yay another all nighter


if it takes all night to reseat....you need more practice


----------



## chris14029

lmao im kidding it will only take a few


----------



## chris14029

lmao but with the zalman i had it did take all night it was a pain in my a**


----------



## chris14029

ok so now its idleing at 35 and maxing at 50c *** is it cuz the cool night air is coming in my room?


----------



## spice003

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
@pcnuttie: 3/8" should fit well.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ath=59_399_748

@spice003: nice setup

thanx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Disturbed* 
what fans are you using?

Sweet setup









thanx, i'm using 2x Scythe DFS123812-1000, was stressing it last nigh for 8hrs at @3.4 max temp was 44c, thats with a closed door and no AC, room temp was pretty high, no errors in prime after 8 hrs. and those are quiet on 20db 44cfm. whats funny is my ilde temp is like 28c but it wont go over 44c at full load lol.


----------



## Hellknight

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


wait so before i do this we all agree that as5 will be better then the stuff the h 50 comes with right(after the as5 sets of cource) and how much /little do i put on? and do i let it spred it self or what?


NO, the shin etsu the h50 comes with is on par with the artic silver 5.


----------



## dude120

No, its better, however having a better TIM doesn't make much of a difference. Using AS5 versus the stock shin etsu would probably only yield slightly higher temperatures, aka 1-2c difference.


----------



## Hellknight

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I would not paint those fans, although you may be able to take them apart they will be hard to put back together. I have painted some 1650 yate loons before, and they were easy enough, but the UK3ks will be of a much higher build quality, not designed for pulling apart. I also painted my Antec BigBoy200 which featured metal C-rings instead of plastic ones, it took about an hour to get the clip back on, I would imagine the UKs to be a of a similar quality.

Also, even with a thin paint coat the paint will upset the balance of the blades, making the fan perform noisily and less effectively. This happened on my Yate Loons, and they are quiet and slow speed normally. I would really suggest you dont try this, especially on anything highspeed!

My personal recommendation for a fan choice would be a Feser Triebwerk 122, it moves a lot of air and has a large range of operating speeds. Using speedfan I run mine at 25% most of the time, and is barely audible, but when you crank it up to 100% it moves a whole load of air. However, it is 55mm thick, so not for everyone









Im sorry for quoting this as it happens to be old but i just could not hold my breath.. TRIEBWERK 55mm FANS!







@13v they sound like... i cannot decribe it?

i can see youre a hardcore boy arent ya?


----------



## ryman546

NOWWWWWW i'm amazed by the h50. Bout time. Posting some amazing temps with new OCZ freeze put on. way cool.


----------



## chris14029

im going to wait a few more hours and see what i get


----------



## dreameer111

Anyone know what size tubing the h50 uses? 3/8" ID, 1/2" OD?


----------



## pcnuttie

I know it has to be 1/2 since they are small.


----------



## happyxix

I reverse the H50 and have it push air out and the idle temp seems to be 7 to 8 degrees higher =[. However load is still the same. Hmmm....


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dreameer111*


anyone know what size tubing the h50 uses? 3/8" id, 1/2" od?


1/4 id 3/8 od


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


NOWWWWWW i'm amazed by the h50. Bout time. Posting some amazing temps with new OCZ freeze put on. way cool.


see....and people say ocz freeze isnt as good as shin lmao....if you use it right its a great TIM


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


ok so now its idleing at 35 and maxing at 50c *** is it cuz the cool night air is coming in my room?


it might be, but the inside of the case is usually a bit warmer than the room,
let the TIM set for a day or so, and then your good


----------



## Demon_panda

hi guys how high can IMC voltage go i think it 1.4v right?


----------



## PCSarge

hell if i do OCing i usually leave everything but vcore and dram volts on auto, then adjust them appropriately after a sucessful stress test


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
the most important overclock stability test is the biggest question of all:

but can it play crysis on max settings?

my answer is yes, i jsut played 6 hours straight with a max load temp of 50C on the hottest core and the 5770 @ stock clocks crunched out 85fps, dropping to about 50fps on large explosions

um, 85 fps in crysis ? with a 5770 ? this doesnt sound right at all what was your average fps ? forgive me for my criticism but that just doesnt sound right! at what resolution were you playing at ?

cheers!


----------



## The Viper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
it might be, but the inside of the case is usually a bit warmer than the room,
let the TIM set for a day or so, and then your good

OCZ freeze does not have a set in period, just an fyi.

hope you dont mind another fyi: this is dejavu for me, but the edit button really does work and prevents double posting.


----------



## chris14029

i still have the shin stuff it came with and so far today there both at 35 so i dont know yet

also my mobo bios says its at 31 or 30c so im woundering is the cpu doing any thing while in bios
or dose speed fan just stay stuck at 35c


----------



## The Viper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


i still have the shin stuff it came with and so far today there both at 35 so i dont know yet


shin etsu is some of the best thermal compound on the market...I would put shin and OCZ freeze close to equal (in my opinion based on my reading).


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Viper*


shin etsu is some of the best thermal compound on the market...I would put shin and OCZ freeze close to equal (in my opinion based on my reading).


yeah but there is a lot on here and i think that by putting a less amount of some other thermal compound might help


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Can someone tell me how to get the friggen backplate off if you put the sticky stuff on? I don't want to ruin the motherboard by being foolish.

EDIT: Nevermind, I just used a flathead screwdriver and pushed up under the sticky stuff and twisted the screwdriver to help pry it up carefully.


----------



## Xann27

question. is the pump on the stock H50 powerful enough to use this? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/85...?tl=g30c95s161


----------



## chris14029

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xann27* 
question. is the pump on the stock H50 powerful enough to use this? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/85...?tl=g30c95s161

Any one? i know that it runs about 1400 rpm i don't know the rate of fluid transfer though


----------



## chris14029

well i made it to 4ghz but very unstable







. evry thing from 3.6 to 3.95ghz was great( apart from temps idle at 40c max at 55c). i hit 4ghz and orthos after running 44 seconds took a crap on me. so i loded back into bios and reset to my stable 3.6ghz that i have been running for ever. so my q's are.
1:how can i make it a stable 4ghz?
2:how can i make this h50 take me lower?PLEASE I KNOW THIS CAN GO LOWER!!!!!!







my h 5o setup is running out hte back.
casefront> [email protected]>rad>[email protected] stock thermal past WHAT CAN I DO???
and reversing air flow is not a option


----------



## chris14029

or am i a dreamer and i will never go that high IF SO how can i take my h50 lower?


----------



## goliath27

Does anyone have the H50 on an Antec 1200? If so I would greatly appreciate some pics. Thanks


----------



## Deegan

new psu so i had to rewire. h50 still going strong


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *goliath27*


Does anyone have the H50 on an Antec 1200? If so I would greatly appreciate some pics. Thanks



check back previous posts, i have a antec 1200 and it's on there. There are videos too on YouTube of someone else's 1200.


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


well i made it to 4ghz but very unstable







. evry thing from 3.6 to 3.95ghz was great( apart from temps idle at 40c max at 55c). i hit 4ghz and orthos after running 44 seconds took a crap on me. so i loded back into bios and reset to my stable 3.6ghz that i have been running for ever. so my q's are.
1:how can i make it a stable 4ghz?
2:how can i make this h50 take me lower?PLEASE I KNOW THIS CAN GO LOWER!!!!!!







my h 5o setup is running out hte back.
casefront> [email protected]>rad>[email protected] stock thermal past WHAT CAN I DO???
and reversing air flow is not a option


I think i know what is your problem. you are bringing the heat inside your case, try make it exhaust so you can have HOT AIR OUT! Then maybe it'll not get hot and stay stable. Unless you did something wrong with the overclocking progress.

Oh i looked at your pic, i notice your volt is low, try upping it a bit if you need 4ghz.


----------



## godofdeath

anyone do a dangerden torture rack with the h50?


----------



## goliath27

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
check back previous posts, i have a antec 1200 and it's on there. There are videos too on YouTube of someone else's 1200.

Is it possible to mount the radiator to the right of the mobo where the extra fan can be placed? I saw a pic somewhere but can't find it.


----------



## spice003

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chris14029* 
well i made it to 4ghz but very unstable







. evry thing from 3.6 to 3.95ghz was great( apart from temps idle at 40c max at 55c). i hit 4ghz and orthos after running 44 seconds took a crap on me. so i loded back into bios and reset to my stable 3.6ghz that i have been running for ever. so my q's are.
1:how can i make it a stable 4ghz?
2:how can i make this h50 take me lower?PLEASE I KNOW THIS CAN GO LOWER!!!!!!







my h 5o setup is running out hte back.
casefront> [email protected]>rad>[email protected] stock thermal past WHAT CAN I DO???
and reversing air flow is not a option

if you're talking about your e8500, then you should easly hit 4GHz, hit 4 with a TRUE when i had my e8500, like pcnuttie said try upping the volts.


----------



## goliath27

Found the pic:









Would it be difficult at all to place the radiator here instead of the rear?


----------



## chris14029

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
I think i know what is your problem. you are bringing the heat inside your case, try make it exhaust so you can have HOT AIR OUT! Then maybe it'll not get hot and stay stable. Unless you did something wrong with the overclocking progress.

Oh i looked at your pic, i notice your volt is low, try upping it a bit if you need 4ghz.

i will try to up the voltage
i do have it set up as a exhaust the rad fans blow out the case


----------



## chris14029

Well i'm now at 4 ghz stable but the h 50 is having a hard time keeping up I'm at 56c under full lode how can I milk it to like 50c or lower


----------



## iGuitarGuy

My H50 rig is a mess right now. As I am transitioning to full watercooling, I now have 3 sizes of tubing in the loop lol. Also I have a Apogee GTZ not being used quite yet but still in the loop. My MCP655 should be arriving within the next two days. This should be fun


----------



## chris14029

Guys this thing is burning me out at 4ghz 57 and 58 59 i need help


----------



## qlmaX5

My first joining of an owners club. Totally glad I went with an H50.


----------



## elson

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


Guys this thing is burning me out at 4ghz 57 and 58 59 i need help


What wrong with those load temps? They seem really good @ 4Ghz.

And question, I have my H50 as exhaust any idea on how much of a drop in temps I can expect if I switch to intake?


----------



## chris14029

Really no those are not good for a e8500 are they? my vcore is 1.296


----------



## pcnuttie

You really should make a push and pull fan on your rad. Put the Intake and make sure you got screws on your rear antec fans to fit the the rad as exhaust so you can get let HEAT out of the case, then your temps will be much lower.


----------



## chris14029

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
You really should make a push and pull fan on your rad. Put the Intake and make sure you got screws on your rear antec fans to fit the the rad as exhaust so you can get let HEAT out of the case, then your temps will be much lower.

thats how i have it


----------



## spice003

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


Guys this thing is burning me out at 4ghz 57 and 58 59 i need help


what CFM are your fans?


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spice003*


what CFM are your fans?


i think about 30 0r 20 not two shure yeah


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


i think about 30 0r 20 not two shure yeah


Hmmm... that would explain it









You'll need something with at least 70, no less than 50 cfm. What tyoe of fans are you using?


----------



## spice003

yeah those CFM's are way to low for 4ghz, try other fans if you have any with higher cfm.


----------



## Sethy666

Oh man, this thread runs faster than the road runner with gastro! I can bearly keep up









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xann27*


question. is the pump on the stock H50 powerful enough to use this? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/85...?tl=g30c95s161


I really dont think the pump is rated for a triple 120 rad. You may get away with a double but a triple will really stress it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


anyone do a dangerden torture rack with the h50?


Not that Ive seen on this forum (caveat - I may have missed that post)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


My H50 rig is a mess right now. As I am transitioning to full watercooling, I now have 3 sizes of tubing in the loop lol. Also I have a Apogee GTZ not being used quite yet but still in the loop. My MCP655 should be arriving within the next two days. This should be fun










Good luck with that man!


----------



## chris14029

lol it might be cuz its at night and the cool air is coming in my room but i reset my H50 and i cant break 50c lol my gpu is idle at 35C so it makes me think that its the cooler room temp but when i remounted the h50 it made the tubes in a more straight line..ish
goo news is i have reached a very stable 4GHz. i ran prime95 for 3 hours with know probs, orthos has been going for 3hrs completed 1,000,000 gflops







with know probs. i will do memtest and some ftt's later but so far so good

any who can you guys point me in the direction of some good fans for me or suggest some names"(i buy from newegg mostly)thanks


----------



## Genome

@chris14029: I snagged some used Noctua NF-P12. Pricey but it might be worth being quiet with all the fans in my case. You could aslo try some coolermaster R4 I bought one to install as a intake fan it isn't too bad sound but noticeable.


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Genome*


@chris14029: I snagged some used Noctua NF-P12. Pricey but it might be worth being quiet with all the fans in my case. You could aslo try some coolermaster R4 I bought one to install as a intake fan it isn't too bad sound but noticeable.


thanks lol im louder then you i bet so i dont care about sound out put ill look at those


----------



## pcnuttie

I got a theory here. Do you think having straight lines of the loop on the H50 makes any difference? Mine is just curved off. Here's an example.

Temps are great i just wonder if it'll perform better if you fix the tube straighten out or it doesn't matter?

Tell me what you think. Should i try to move the tubes a bit better? Will it move the heatsink position? I don't wanna re-apply thermal cuz the one that came with it is on it. Hate to order it or i'd have to end up using my Artic Silver 5 but i like the Shin better, Anyways i wanna know what you think of this?



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Katch

Some pics of my loop in a SG05b;

Swiftech Micro Res
Swiftech MCW30
XSPC X20 VGA
6mm/9mm PVC tube
Koolance 1/4" Barbs on Res and GPU block
Distilled water + 15% Prestone & Fesser UV Green

Oh yeah; E8400, XFX Extreme 5770, 4Gb Hyperx, Zotac ITX 9300, 2x160Gb Scorpio blacks in Raid.

Need to pick up a pair of better fans, just stock from the H50 and SG05B case atm.




























Built and bled ready to install



















Slight bend of the graphics card required here but it seems to be ok























































Took off the anti-kink coz they looked dog and reorinetated the rad with the barbs down (no more bent GFX card);










Ok temps;

CPU @ 3.4GHz - GFX 5770 @ 960MHz / 1445MHz! (GPU 9681 in Vantage)

Core 1 - 37 / 47
Core 2 - 36 / 43
MCP - 33 / 47
GFX - 31 / 47

I'm impressed. I love tiny water cooling - next mission, hand built case with full loop.


----------



## XtachiX

what the!!!
can the h50 pump handle all that?
will it last long?


----------



## Katch

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XtachiX*


what the!!!
can the h50 pump handle all that?
will it last long?


we shall see...


----------



## moocowman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Katch*


Some pics of my loop in a SG05b;

Swiftech Micro Res
Swiftech MCW30
XSPC X20 VGA
6mm/9mm PVC tube
Koolance 1/4" Barbs on Res and GPU block
Distilled water + 15% Prestone & Fesser UV Green

Oh yeah; E8400, XFX Extreme 5770, 4Gb Hyperx, Zotac ITX 9300, 2x160Gb Scorpio blacks in Raid.

Need to pick up a pair of better fans, just stock from the H50 and SG05B case atm.

*pics snipped to shorten quote*

Built and bled ready to install

*pics snipped to shorten quote*

Slight bend of the graphics card required here but it seems to be ok

*pics snipped to shorten quote*

Took off the anti-kink coz they looked dog and reorinetated the rad with the barbs down (no more bent GFX card);

*pics snipped to shorten quote*

Ok temps;

CPU @ 3.4GHz - GFX 5770 @ 960MHz / 1445MHz! (GPU 9681 in Vantage)

Core 1 - 37 / 47
Core 2 - 36 / 43
MCP - 33 / 47
GFX - 31 / 47

I'm impressed. I love tiny water cooling - next mission, hand built case with full loop.


Holy hell! That's quite impressive. Very very nice katch. I hope it lasts


----------



## XtachiX

let us know if anything happens to the h50. i'm very interested


----------



## mr-Charles

Very nice & impressive setup and all







. . .

...BUT, IMHO > > >

....i can already imagine the _*"Bubble's of HEAT"*_







for WHAT is going to be within that reservoir, 
(cuz of the TINY Radiator for the loop),* IF* using long enough / or Gaming upon OR IF the pump can 
handle/last - long for all the Hardware. . .







; BUT, as you have stated, _* "we shall see..."*_







...







...









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *elson*


What wrong with those load temps? They seem really good @ 4Ghz.

And question, I have my H50 as exhaust any idea on how much of a drop in temps I can expect if I switch to intake?


if your video card is exhausting out the back, dont do intake, itll suck al lthe hot air back in and raise temps, if you want an intake and you video card exhausts out the back, follow the link in my sig for the 5.25 bays, check it out, and attempt it yourself (all you need is cable ties and 3-4 empty slots in the front of your case


----------



## Katch

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


Very nice & impressive setup and all







. . .

...BUT, IMHO > > >

....i can already imagine the _*"Bubble's of HEAT"*_







for WHAT is going to be within that reservoir, 
(cuz of the TINY Radiator for the loop),* IF* using long enough / or Gaming upon OR IF the pump can 
handle/last - long for all the Hardware. . .







; BUT, as you have stated, _* "we shall see..."*_







...







...









mr-Charles .









.


I did 3 hours of Halo 2, 2 hours of Mirror's Edge and completed Halflife 2 chapter 2 on it so far. No peaks over 50 degree - all seems well.

Oh yeah this is my first ever water cooling build so its been a good learning experience. Definitely hooked now. Heard someone call the H50 a 'gateway drug to the real thing' and I can see what they meant.


----------



## PCSarge

oh and nuttie, use the passive cooling fan asus gave you on that heatsink below your cpu, it runs hot as hell from my experience


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Katch*


I did 3 hours of Halo 2, 2 hours of Mirror's Edge and completed Halflife 2 chapter 2 on it so far. No peaks over 50 degree - all seems well.



. . . .







. . . . very _*IMPRESSIVE*_







.....Congrat's to ya on this,

as well as _*WELCOME*_







to here on this thread, in this forum . . .

{ please keep us updated/inform'd here of your system; 
as well as to fill in yours system spec's in the USER CP /Edit System ...thnx







}

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## dvnczyk

Hmmm... I burned my mobo while trying to put in the H50. My pc is coming back on tuesday, but I wanted to ask, how well does the H50 cool AMD 965 BE on 3.8 ? Better than Dark Knight or Meghalems? Thanks


----------



## XinjaX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dvnczyk*


Hmmm... I burned my mobo while trying to put in the H50. My pc is coming back on tuesday, but I wanted to ask, how well does the H50 cool AMD 965 BE on 3.8 ? Better than Dark Knight or Meghalems? Thanks


the H50 should cool just as good as a meghalems if not better


----------



## dvnczyk

xnijax thx. But yeah. I'm not gonna try putiing it again by myself. I don't want 2 burn another mobo. Ima give it to a pc store to do it for about 10 $.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dvnczyk* 
xnijax thx. But yeah. I'm not gonna try putiing it again by myself. I don't want 2 burn another mobo. Ima give it to a pc store to do it for about 10 $.

how the heck can you fry a mobo installing the H50? it makes no sense

hate to say it but its sorta....pathetic


----------



## PCSarge

forgot to mention, as of 5 mins ago, i'm OCNChimpin folding to get my 10 wu's


----------



## Section_25

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dvnczyk* 
Hmmm... I burned my mobo while trying to put in the H50.

How did you manage to do that ?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


forgot to mention, as of 5 mins ago, i'm OCNChimpin folding to get my 10 wu's


As far as I know, aslong as OCNChimpin has done 10 SMP WU's, which it has and many more, you dont have to do 10 WU's to get the bonues, they just start coming. I've also switched over too.


----------



## Voluntary

Had the H50 for over a month now, kept stock TIM on it until today.

With the stock TIM my temps @ 4.01 Ghz on 1.24 volts:

39-41c idle

65-71 load(prime95) for 1 hour 30 mins

never really agreed with these temperature's so decided on a new TIM, OCZ freeze.

with OCZ freeze my temps @ 4.01 Gz on 1.24 volts:

35-38c idle

63-67c load (prime95) 1 hour 30 mins.

So i am getting slightly better temperatures, but all in all i am not satisfied with them after seeing what some of your rigs temps are.

Guess ill drop the clock back down to stock an see what temp it runs, but im leaning more and more towards a pro meg.


----------



## Sethy666

OCN is in dire need of your help!

Fellow H50 users...

We are looking at total defeat in the up coming Chimp Challenge... we can not suffer this ignominious lose!

We need you help to fold in a battle against the rest of the world!

If you can fold, even for a few hours, please sign up in the link below.

http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...gnup-here.html

This is OCN and we need *you*!


----------



## Xann27

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Katch* 
I did 3 hours of Halo 2, 2 hours of Mirror's Edge and completed Halflife 2 chapter 2 on it so far. No peaks over 50 degree - all seems well.

Oh yeah this is my first ever water cooling build so its been a good learning experience. Definitely hooked now. Heard someone call the H50 a 'gateway drug to the real thing' and I can see what they meant.

well, its not like you're runnin a i7 980 extreme OC'd to 5ghz, and have a quad SLI. So from what you have, it seems your setup is just fine. i would seriously look into at least getting a backup pump tho. just incase your H50 stresses out from all the pressure. it the H50 pump does fry out on you, you can at least disablt the H50 pump and use it as a temporary CPU waterblock. looks like you took a few days to make it all happen, good work for being a first timer and good luck!


----------



## Killhouse

Switched to OCNChimpin too.

Get folding guys!


----------



## mayford5

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
OCN is in dire need of your help!

Fellow H50 users...

We are looking at total defeat in the up coming Chimp Challenge... we can not suffer this ignominious lose!

We need you help to fold in a battle against the rest of the world!

If you can fold, even for a few hours, please sign up in the link below.

http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...gnup-here.html

This is OCN and we need *you*!

Already on it. Been on it for a couple days with one quad core and now on two quads and a dual.


----------



## humbleguy

come here chimp


----------



## TheLastPriest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


OCN is in dire need of your help!

Fellow H50 users...

We are looking at total defeat in the up coming Chimp Challenge... we can not suffer this ignominious lose!

We need you help to fold in a battle against the rest of the world!

If you can fold, even for a few hours, please sign up in the link below.

http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...gnup-here.html

This is OCN and we need *you*!



I need to get home and set all this up tonight, I keep saying I am going to but work and being a parent keep getting the in the way. That being said I committed to helping my home forum so I will make time, be prepared for an absolutely noobish "how on earth do I set this up" thread later today...


----------



## hitman1985

hmmmmmm, what you guys think, is it worth an extra 30 bucks to buy gentle 1850rpm's over yate loon high speeds ?

or do you have a suggestion in between the two prices ?









i gotta act quick, chimp is around the corner and im picking up parts and ordering fans online today.

my whole issue with the decisison is the following, will i be able to see or hear a big difference in temps vs noise level ? comparing the 6 yate loons im running right now, the two internal ones wouldnt sound too bad


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
oh and nuttie, use the passive cooling fan asus gave you on that heatsink below your cpu, it runs hot as hell from my experience

Yea i know that, that's why i have to order another one. I broke mine from sleeving it. the wire snapped off. Besides i never had heat problems because i have a side fan panel on.


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


I got a theory here. Do you think having straight lines of the loop on the H50 makes any difference? Mine is just curved off. Here's an example.

Temps are great i just wonder if it'll perform better if you fix the tube straighten out or it doesn't matter?

Tell me what you think. Should i try to move the tubes a bit better? Will it move the heatsink position? I don't wanna re-apply thermal cuz the one that came with it is on it. Hate to order it or i'd have to end up using my Artic Silver 5 but i like the Shin better, Anyways i wanna know what you think of this?



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


see i reset the pump block and this time straightned the tubing a liitle more and today im idle at 35c but my room is also like 60f so ill chack back in a little bit.


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheLastPriest*


I need to get home and set all this up tonight, I keep saying I am going to but work and being a parent keep getting the in the way. That being said I committed to helping my home forum so I will make time, be prepared for an absolutely noobish "how on earth do I set this up" thread later today...


just started


----------



## chris14029

how about two of these bad boys in a push pull config???? what you guys think? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185054


----------



## krescent

Okay so my two gentletyphoons have arrived....

However, they are branded 'servo' and not scythe. After some googling, I learned that servo is the manufacturer, scythe is the...whatever u call it.

Is a fan just a fan just a fan? or does the scythe one perform better, anyone know?

EDIT: they have the same model number, same speed and etc...


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chris14029* 
how about two of these bad boys in a push pull config???? what you guys think? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185054

Don't do it! They are far too noisy!







Go with the Ultra Kaze 2000 rpm version. They make no more noise than the R4 but push through a lot more air and have a higher static pressure. You won't regret it.


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
Don't do it! They are far too noisy!







Go with the Ultra Kaze 2000 rpm version. They make no more noise than the R4 but push through a lot more air and have a higher static pressure. You won't regret it.









agreed


----------



## chris14029

k i will thanks guys


----------



## t77snapshot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chris14029* 
how about two of these bad boys in a push pull config???? what you guys think? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185054

Yeah if you dont mind your rig sounding like a spaceship at take off!

(ignore the beeping of the fan controller)







YouTube- Scythe Ultra Kaze 120mm Case Fan 3000rpm
or








YouTube- Scythe "Ultra Kaze"


----------



## XtachiX

how about the uk3000 with a fan controller? that way you'll reduce the temps quite a bit when you need to
dont you agree?


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Switched to OCNChimpin too.

Get folding guys!


I did too. Fold til it blows.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *krescent*


Okay so my two gentletyphoons have arrived....

However, they are branded 'servo' and not scythe. After some googling, I learned that servo is the manufacturer, scythe is the...whatever u call it.

Is a fan just a fan just a fan? or does the scythe one perform better, anyone know?

EDIT: they have the same model number, same speed and etc...


Actually they are manufactured by Nidec. And I've never seen any branded as Scythe, unlike some of their other fans. In other words them is the ones and the real deal.


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t77snapshot*


Yeah if you dont mind your rig sounding like a spaceship at take off!

(ignore the beeping of the fan controller)
YouTube- Scythe Ultra Kaze 120mm Case Fan 3000rpm

or

YouTube- Scythe "Ultra Kaze"


wow wow wow ok uhhh yeah jesus thats so loude







ill go with the 2000


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *XtachiX* 
how about the uk3000 with a fan controller? that way you'll reduce the temps quite a bit when you need to
dont you agree?

...orrrrr....get the 2000 rpm version and save the money you would have spent on a fan controller.


----------



## rickyman0319

what size barb do the H50 radiator uses? 1/4 or 3/8?


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rickyman0319* 
what size barb do the H50 radiator uses? 1/4 or 3/8?


...... 1/4"

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## rickyman0319

i have an extra H50 radiator. i want to know can i make my own loop using H50 rad or not.

if yes, what do i need to make it work?


----------



## PCSarge

im attempting to get my old duo core up and folding too, if i do, its monster points lmao along with my old 9600 gso


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


im attempting to get my old duo core up and folding too, if i do, its monster points lmao along with my old 9600 gso


and wow, i noticed something lame in my i5 750 cpuz validation
for some reasom my RAM is running at 800 mhz instead of 1600mhz... so its underclocked x.x


----------



## elson

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


and wow, i noticed something lame in my i5 750 cpuz validation
for some reasom my RAM is running at 800 mhz instead of 1600mhz... so its underclocked x.x


No that's correct. 800 is the base speed and linked to your base clock by x4 which is then multiplied by 2 because its dual channel ram


----------



## PCSarge

ok, well i fixed the timings to those specified on the package... it was at a measley 11-11-11-30, i put it to its reccomended 9-9-9-24


----------



## chris14029

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
im attempting to get my old duo core up and folding too, if i do, its monster points lmao along with my old 9600 gso

how long to should it take a dual core with 4gigs of 800mhz ram(i know i know) to fold 2500 it says(1975 of 2500)?


----------



## pcnuttie

wow i can't use the shroud in my case. My motherboard is too big and i can't get enough room to stretch the whole shroud to fix by the cpu. Sucks but at least i know i can change fans if i need to.


----------



## mmx+

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


wow i can't use the shroud in my case. My motherboard is too big and i can't get enough room to stretch the whole shroud to fix by the cpu. Sucks but at least i know i can change fans if i need to.


Can you have the shroud/fan hanging out the back of the case? That's what I was planning on doing if the need arises


----------



## pcnuttie

I could probably do that but it looks like i MIGHT need much longer screws to hold an extra fan.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


how long to should it take a dual core with 4gigs of 800mhz ram(i know i know) to fold 2500 it says(1975 of 2500)?










that pends on your overclocking chris, i can run mine at about 3.4 ghz on air, i had it at 4ghz stable under my H50, just like my i5 750 is now

it used to go throught about 6 units a day on SMP for me, the regular client takes forever to complete a unit, as it only occupies one core


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


that pends on your overclocking chris, i can run mine at about 3.4 ghz on air, i had it at 4ghz stable under my H50, just like my i5 750 is now

it used to go throught about 6 units a day on SMP for me, the regular client takes forever to complete a unit, as it only occupies one core


wow that makes much more i took me all after noon to do one but i have the single client


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


wow that makes much more i took me all after noon to do one but i have the single client










download the other one, and follow the website guide to set up smp, and let it rip, this i5 750 puts out 8-10 units a day pending on size


----------



## pcnuttie

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/92...c429s163#blank

What do you all guys and gals think of this? Since i know shrouds help airflow but i came across this and thought it'd be a perfect use for airflow. I bet this baby can help better than your homemade shroud since it's shaped as a box and the airflow will be box shaped not ROUND! I would love to wonder what temps can be by using this. I may get it.


----------



## novokaine

Just got one of these bad boys, unfortunately my temps increased, i have this thing set up with 2 Ultra Kaze fans doing push/pull so the heat is blowing OUT of the case. My idle temps are at 43 idle, load is 75-76, with 4GHz at 1.275vcore, does that sound like the temps i should be getting to you guys.

I took it off got rid of the stock paste and re put it on with some antec Thermal Paste, if that means anything. Oh and i forgot to mention, before i took off the stock paste it had on it because i had to reinstall it, the temps were i think 1 or 2 degrees Celsius lower and i had 2000 rpm fans doing push/pull on it, now i have 3000 rpms fans doing push/pull and the temps raised a couple degrees with my antec paste...

Any suggestions on how i can maybe get these temps to 70 degrees?


----------



## pcnuttie

Antec paste? What paste? Is it called Antec? Btw not to be rude here but i really hate it when new people joined in and we don't know you, so please make an introduction first in Introduction threads. I'm sure there is a rule for this. Btw i still disagree what you said, this is why we did shrouds, it does lower temps. You have a i7 and it gets hot.


----------



## The Viper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Btw not to be rude here but i really hate it when new people joined in and we don't know you, so please make an introduction first in Introduction threads. I'm sure there is a rule for this. Btw i still disagree what you said, this is why we did shrouds, it does lower temps. .


Please for the love of god tell me your just messin with the new guy, cause if not that is no way to treat someone new...there is no rule that says you have to introduce yourself...I never did, are you saying I should too? Yet you use a strong phrase like "i really hate it..." to describe an action where hes not even in the wrong. LOL, then you imply that hes lying...wow! just wow. I think it is you who have alot to learn, not the new guy.

"not to be rude...", no you actually really are.


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Antec paste? What paste? Is it called Antec? Btw not to be rude here but i really hate it when new people joined in and we don't know you, so please make an introduction first in Introduction threads. I'm sure there is a rule for this. Btw i still disagree what you said, this is why we did shrouds, it does lower temps. You have a i7 and it gets hot.


do you know what are u talking about?
and i never introduce myself when i joined OCN.
are you sure i have to introduce myself before i can post it here?
do you even know what the hell are you talking about?
not to be rude
but the way u threat the new member is..overly rude.


----------



## chris14029

i love this club


----------



## ThumperSD

Hi may somebody pls tell me if this method would work well with a push/pull intake set up on my Antec 900?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ThumperSD*


Hi may somebody pls tell me if this method would work well with a push/pull intake set up on my Antec 900?











That seems to be able to work good, that fan up top should exhaust a good amount of air. Let us know how it goes


----------



## novokaine

The paste is called antec formula 5, is a diff paste going to make a big difference?


----------



## PovertyPanda

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/92...c429s163#blank

What do you all guys and gals think of this? Since i know shrouds help airflow but i came across this and thought it'd be a perfect use for airflow. I bet this baby can help better than your homemade shroud since it's shaped as a box and the airflow will be box shaped not ROUND! I would love to wonder what temps can be by using this. I may get it.


I bought one of those but ran into the issue that I couldn't actually use it.
My issue was that the thickness of a fan -> rad -> airbox -> fan was way too thick and it wouldn't go between the case and the h50's pump.

You may ask why not just run the rad -> airbox -> fan well that was too thick as well. Plus I can't mount the rad right on the case unfortunately. The end tanks hit the top of the expansion slots on the case.

It is possible to mount this thing on the top of the case if you have an opening but when I mounted it like that i got higher temps.
I figured heat did that whole rising thing but I guess its less efficient.

It might have something to do with the strength of the h50 pump it might not be able to push the fluid up that much. I know it was a rating back in the day of my custom water cooling loop.

hope that helps.


----------



## mmx+

My H50 is slated to arrive tomorrow, I'll be sure to get all sorts of performance comparisons between it and the HDT-S963 & stock AMD cooler


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *novokaine* 
Just got one of these bad boys, unfortunately my temps increased, i have this thing set up with 2 Ultra Kaze fans doing push/pull so the heat is blowing OUT of the case. My idle temps are at 43 idle, load is 75-76, with 4GHz at 1.275vcore, does that sound like the temps i should be getting to you guys.

I took it off got rid of the stock paste and re put it on with some antec Thermal Paste, if that means anything. Oh and i forgot to mention, before i took off the stock paste it had on it because i had to reinstall it, the temps were i think 1 or 2 degrees Celsius lower and i had 2000 rpm fans doing push/pull on it, now i have 3000 rpms fans doing push/pull and the temps raised a couple degrees with my antec paste...

Any suggestions on how i can maybe get these temps to 70 degrees?

if my i5 750 at 4ghz at 1.38 vcore is stable and runs at 55C hottest core under full load (and i ran 15 threads of ibt) then you either not seated right, or that i7 is a hot chip, meaning you cant do nothing about it and antec brand paste...kinda... sucks... go get some better quality stuff.... go pay 10 bucks and get OCZ Freeze


----------



## PCSarge

and now for my second post i'm mad, i got the gpu client to take my radeon 5770, but fahmon doesnt sense it, which is pathetic really, i add it and it just says *hung* even though the client is running

on a seperate note, hfm.net reads both my smp and the radeon, but shows i've done 51,000 wu's when i havent even done 30,000 yet...like ***?


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


and now for my second post i'm mad, i got the gpu client to take my radeon 5770, but fahmon doesnt sense it, which is pathetic really, i add it and it just says *hung* even though the client is running

on a seperate note, hfm.net reads both my smp and the radeon, but shows i've done 51,000 wu's when i havent even done 30,000 yet...like ***?


wouldnt you agree that putting this in the proper forum might help you a bit better ?


----------



## Defiler

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sethy666*


ocn is in dire need of your help!

fellow h50 users...

We are looking at total defeat in the up coming chimp challenge... We can not suffer this ignominious lose!

We need you help to fold in a battle against the rest of the world!

If you can fold, even for a few hours, please sign up in the link below.

http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...gnup-here.html

this is ocn and we need *you*!


i'm on it!


----------



## PovertyPanda

^ I am just awaiting a passkey


----------



## pcnuttie

Just figured i'd post my pic. I improved my look. Got tired of seeing a dead black spot in the middle of my case. Now this will glow along with all my UV sleeves too lol.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## thx1138

Anyone want to join my "I hate my H50 club"?


----------



## pcnuttie

LOL no.


----------



## Defiler

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thx1138*


Anyone want to join my "I hate my H50 club"?


I'm sure you'll have a few bites. Good luck!


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
That seems to be able to work good, that fan up top should exhaust a good amount of air. Let us know how it goes









thanks


----------



## Heckel99

New to Overclock.net .....Just installed my H50 and after reading many posts here, I went push/pull with 2 cooler master 2000rpm 90cfm fans to replace stock. I have it exhausting out and I with this setup I saw a 10C drop in PRIME95 @ 100% , went from 74-75C on stock H50 setup to 64-65C with push/pull setup on 90cfm fans. I did put the Corsair stock fan to good use as an intake fan on the bottom..... Couldnt be more happier.
Oh and my Coolermaster V8 I had on before would hit 80C in a couple minutes and I would kill PRIME95 test so need less to say no more Air cooled for me,


----------



## Gunderman456

Good work and welcome! Wow, Cooler Master V8 is supposed to be an excellent air cooler. Just goes to show we all made a good decision going with an H-50!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


and now for my second post i'm mad, i got the gpu client to take my radeon 5770, but fahmon doesnt sense it, which is pathetic really, i add it and it just says *hung* even though the client is running

on a seperate note, hfm.net reads both my smp and the radeon, but shows i've done 51,000 wu's when i havent even done 30,000 yet...like ***?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *hitman1985*


wouldnt you agree that putting this in the proper forum might help you a bit better ?


PCSarge, I have to agree with Hitman1985. You would get faster help at the Folding forums


----------



## novokaine

Out of shear curiosity, can you guys post your Overclocks, Vcores, and temps under 100% load!!!

Right now
i am at 68degrees C
1.275 vcore
i7 930 @ 4GHz


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Heckel99*


New to Overclock.net .....Just installed my H50 and after reading many posts here, I went push/pull with 2 cooler master 2000rpm 90cfm fans to replace stock. I have it exhausting out and I with this setup I saw a 10C drop in PRIME95 @ 100% , went from 74-75C on stock H50 setup to 64-65C with push/pull setup on 90cfm fans. I did put the Corsair stock fan to good use as an intake fan on the bottom..... Couldnt be more happier.
Oh and my Coolermaster V8 I had on before would hit 80C in a couple minutes and I would kill PRIME95 test so need less to say no more Air cooled for me,










scary, its like looking at the inside of my own pc, only 3 things r diff, the mobo, the cpu, and my rad is mounted in my cd drive bays as intake xD, that and the fact that i have 8 r4s not including the 2 push pull on my h50 rad, so my case glows a nice subtle red in the dark


----------



## thx1138

I think we should also post our ambients and what fans were using to compare as well.

(for now) Lian li 1400rpm cheap case fan (until I get my uk3000's and turn the lian li into a shroud)
ambient 15c
load 58-60c
1.39 
965 c3 @ 4ghz


----------



## novokaine

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thx1138* 
I think we should also post our ambients and what fans were using to compare as well.

(for now) Lian li 1400rpm cheap case fan (until I get my uk3000's and turn the lian li into a shroud)
ambient 15c
load 58-60c
1.39
965 c3 @ 4ghz

wow niiice temps, can i see a pic of ur set up, Right now i have 2, 3000 RPM fans doing a push/pull out've the case, do you guys think 3000 RPM is overkill or counter-productive?


----------



## thx1138

Quote:



Originally Posted by *novokaine*


wow niiice temps, can i see a pic of ur set up, Right now i have 2, 3000 RPM fans doing a push/pull out've the case, do you guys think 3000 RPM is overkill or counter-productive?


I hope thats sarcasm. My $30 xigmatek kept it under 45c


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thx1138*


I hope thats sarcasm. My $30 xigmatek kept it under 45c


ambient 18'c
load under 42'C
1.39V
955 C3 3.8ghz

but my $30 air cooler did better which is 38'C full load


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


ambient 18'c
load under 42'C
1.39V
955 C3 3.8ghz

but my $30 air cooler did better which is 38'C full load


Which cooler was that? My h50 after testing different fan setups and stuff I got it to cool better than my Megahalems.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *novokaine*


Out of shear curiosity, can you guys post your Overclocks, Vcores, and temps under 100% load!!!

Right now
i am at 68degrees C
1.275 vcore
i7 930 @ 4GHz


i'm at:
2 cooler master R4 2000rpm 90cfm fans
ambient 22C 
push/pull intake
51C hottest core, 43C coldest
1.388 vcore
i5 750 @ 4Ghz


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Which cooler was that? My h50 after testing different fan setups and stuff I got it to cool better than my Megahalems.


XtremeGear HP1216

$22+$8shipping =$30 shipped.
now they raise the price lol.
it USE to be $22. DAMM.
because it getting alot of good review from customer.

http://www.buyxg.com/store/item.aspx?id=3384&catid=40


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


XtremeGear HP1216

$22+$8shipping =$30 shipped.
now they raise the price lol.
it USE to be $22. DAMM.
because it getting alot of good review from customer.

http://www.buyxg.com/store/item.aspx?id=3384&catid=40


doesn't look like it can outperform the H50, what fan setup do you have on your H50? Also are ambients about the same than when you had your air cooler and have you used different thermal paste?


----------



## PCSarge

chicken your right... thats one cheesy looking cooler lmao


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
doesn't look like it can outperform the H50, what fan setup do you have on your H50? Also are ambients about the same than when you had your air cooler and have you used different thermal paste?

check out some real time pic i took.








*look at the heatpipe*









*look at the small heatsink on top of the base.*








*
look at the 5 direct contact copper heatpipe base*









*look at the SMALL DOTTED SURFACE on each FIN.*









955 running at 4.0ghz full load.









3.8 full load.









Does it looks weak when come to the real life pictures?
no...


----------



## mr-Charles

nice pic's, BUT, = WHAT's up with the DATE for the pic's for showing???





































mr-Charles .









.


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
nice pic's, BUT WHAT's up with the DATE for the pic's for showing???





































mr-Charles .









.

my camera








once the battery dead. the date will mess up and will go advance a few days. soo...


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fssbzz* 
check out some real time pic i took.








*look at the heatpipe*









*look at the small heatsink on top of the base.*








*
look at the 5 direct contact copper heatpipe base*









*look at the SMALL DOTTED SURFACE on each FIN.*









955 running at 4.0ghz full load.









3.8 full load.









Does it looks weak when come to the real life pictures?
no...









please dont tell me you were the one running an amd cpu at 1.488 vcore.... because that is just.....the stupidest thing you could ever do
and ....thats prime 95 temps... thats miniscule... mine was 2 hrs of linpack on max


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
please dont tell me you were the one running an amd cpu at 1.488 vcore.... because that is just.....the stupidest thing you could ever do

AMD chip and Intel Chip is different.
Phenom II x4 955 recommend running below 1.5V
http://products.amd.com/en-us/Deskto...f10=&f11=&f12=

i think they change it to 1.4 = =


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
please dont tell me you were the one running an amd cpu at 1.488 vcore.... because that is just.....the stupidest thing you could ever do
_and ....thats prime 95 temps... thats miniscule..._ mine was *2 hrs of linpack on max*


....{







i like my _*proof*_, better . .







. .}

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fssbzz* 
AMD chip and Intel Chip is different.
Phenom II x4 955 recommend running below 1.5V
http://products.amd.com/en-us/Deskto...f10=&f11=&f12=

i think they change it to 1.4 = =









its supposed to be 1.4v for all cpus as far as i know, i run at 1.388v so i'm pretty close, if u need 1.488 for 4ghz it means your doing something very wrong...


----------



## Heckel99

Quote:


Originally Posted by *novokaine* 
Out of shear curiosity, can you guys post your Overclocks, Vcores, and temps under 100% load!!!

Right now
i am at 68degrees C
1.275 vcore
i7 930 @ 4GHz

Here is Mine, curious to why my core 3 is significantly less than the others?
Maybe when I put on my MX-3 it didnt spread correctly, Any one else know or see this behavior?


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
its supposed to be 1.4v for all cpus as far as i know, i run at 1.388v so i'm pretty close, if u need 1.488 for 4ghz it means your doing something very wrong...

LOL. again. can some1 help me to explain to him?

my CPU come on stock 1.39V @3.2Ghz
it can bumped up to 3.8Ghz on stock voltage 1.39V

again. AMD is different then Intel


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Heckel99* 
Here is Mine, curious to why my core is significantly less than the others?
Maybe when I put on my MX-3 it didnt spread correctly, Any one else know or see this behavior?


















probably either a lazy core, or a bad temp sensor, on my old C2D e7400 my temp readings only went as low as 41, because the sensors were "stuck" its a common problem with cpus


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fssbzz* 
LOL. again. can some1 help me to explain to him?

my CPU come on stock 1.39V @3.2Ghz
it can bumped up to 3.8Ghz on stock voltage 1.39V

again. AMD is different then Intel

should i slap you now or later, for i am not a "him" and if it reads max safe voltage is 1.4v on thier site, then 1.488v is pushing limits, it can be run 24/7, but expect a shorter cpu life span


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
should i slap you now or later, for i am not a "him" and if it reads max safe voltage is 1.4v on thier site, then 1.488v is pushing limits, it can be run 24/7, but expect a shorter cpu life span

now or later wadever u like.








explain to her,PCSarge


----------



## Kevdog

I just picked up this H50 and my temps went down 15c to 20c, I had a Hyper 212+ with 2 fans, it has the heat pipes on the bottom.
Are you experts getting even lower temps bu changing the thermal compound? and if so whats working the best?

PH 2 955 @ 4ghz
1.45 v
33c idle
58c on load
ambient right now 22c

Using 2 cheapo fans push pull 76cfm


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fssbzz* 
now or later wadever u like.








explain to her,PCSarge

i dont need to be explained to, i've been working with pcs for 10 years now, i know what the hell i'm talking about








yeesh...boys


----------



## mr-Charles

oooOOOOOK > > > > let's get back / & keep on topic, eh people......gzzzzzzzzz









{ my apology for even posting off topic, sorry all...







}

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Heckel99

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
probably either a lazy core, or a bad temp sensor, on my old C2D e7400 my temp readings only went as low as 41, because the sensors were "stuck" its a common problem with cpus

So nothing really to worry about then

Thanks


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
i dont need to be explained to, i've been working with pcs for 10 years now, i know what the hell i'm talking about








yeesh...boys









i been working with AMD Rig 2 years.








lady


----------



## novokaine

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Heckel99* 
Here is Mine, curious to why my core 3 is significantly less than the others?
Maybe when I put on my MX-3 it didnt spread correctly, Any one else know or see this behavior?


















please, tell me what you are doing to get these temps lol, Are you running push/pull what fans, air going in the case, air going out the case.
Those temps are gross, If you can provide a pic of ur case thatt would be awesome too.


----------



## Heckel99

Quote:


Originally Posted by *novokaine* 
please, tell me what you are doing to get these temps lol, Are you running push/pull what fans, air going in the case, air going out the case.
Those temps are gross, If you can provide a pic of ur case thatt would be awesome too.

I am doing a push pull blowing out of the case, but I ditched the stock fan and bought 2 cooler master 2000 rpm 90 cfm fans for 11 bucks each and that dropped my temps by 8-10C and since there are rated at 19 db-a its still quiet. I also ditched the stock thermal compound and used MX-3. I used the corsair fan that came with the H50 as another intake on the bottom of the case. just for little extra air.










link to microcenter where i purchased the fans
http://www.microcenter.com/single_pr...uct_id=0312371


----------



## hitman1985

same temps then mine with the i7 920 D0 at 3.8 ghz vcore is higher for me though. 1.305v 7 core folding i max out at 68C on my highest core







(4 dollar fans!)

core 0 = hottest core
core 1+2 = medium between
core 3 = coldest core

was this way with my last 3 core i7's


----------



## imh073p

I'll join! 2XR4's P/P exhaust. Dropped 10c load over my CM V8 @4ghz using AS5. After its cured maybe get another 1-3c drop.


----------



## Heckel99

Quote:


Originally Posted by *imh073p* 
I'll join! 2XR4's P/P exhaust. Dropped 10c load over my CM V8 @4ghz using AS5. After its cured maybe get another 1-3c drop.









Nice looking setup you got


----------



## chris14029

blast it seems my ocz freeze plans have been put on the back burner newegg is clean out

so frozen cpu is a trusted site yes no? whats there return policy? good bad?


----------



## djsi38t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Heckel99* 
I am doing a push pull blowing out of the case, but I ditched the stock fan and bought 2 cooler master 2000 rpm 90 cfm fans for 11 bucks each and that dropped my temps by 8-10C and since there are rated at 19 db-a its still quiet. I also ditched the stock thermal compound and used MX-3. I used the corsair fan that came with the H50 as another intake on the bottom of the case. just for little extra air.










link to microcenter where i purchased the fans
http://www.microcenter.com/single_pr...uct_id=0312371

You should have left the stock tim and should consider pulling air from outside.If you have top exhaust fans.

I noticed a ten degree drop from a dark night with the stock corsair setup pulling air in.


----------



## Heckel99

Quote:


Originally Posted by *djsi38t* 
You should have left the stock tim and should consider pulling air from outside.If you have top exhaust fans.

I noticed a ten degree drop from a dark night with the stock corsair setup pulling air in.

I initially had it stock pulling from the outside and it was ok but did notice MB temps jump up.
If it starts hitting ridiculous temps then i will pull air from the outside, but as of now im staying with this setup. seems to be working nicely.

when i said a 8-10C drop that was from the stock H50 setup to this new setup


----------



## novokaine

yeah, right now i'm pulling air in, i dropped about 1-2 C, i think its my crappy antec thermal paste that is keeping my cores so hot though, hopefully that will change when my as5 gets here.


----------



## Kevdog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kevdog* 
I just picked up this H50 and my temps went down 15c to 20c, I had a Hyper 212+ with 2 fans, it has the heat pipes on the bottom.
Are you experts getting even lower temps bu changing the thermal compound? and if so whats working the best?

PH 2 955 @ 4ghz
1.45 v
33c idle
58c on load
ambient right now 22c

Using 2 cheapo fans push pull 76cfm

How do I join this Club??


----------



## SuperSonicz

Here's mine:



And from from the outside, just need to replace top right fan with a neon-one.


----------



## pcnuttie

Do you guys think having a side fan as intake cause airflow static pressure if i am having my H50 on my rear fans as exhaust? Would this isolate air? Cuz i'm getting sick of freezes when i play bfbc 2. I RARELY have that happened. I keep thinking maybe i had heat issues. I have to experiment my airflow. I think i have a dead spot somewhere or maybe something is wrong. I haven't even overclocked in awhile like LONG time.. it is @ 3ghz and i haven't done anything else.


----------



## greyno3

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kevdog* 
How do I join this Club??


It's tricky. I'm an idiot self taught noob
but managed to join. I typed my name and hit ENTER.
Everyone here is a dang good polite soul. You should get help if it's needed.


----------



## XtachiX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
Do you guys think having a side fan as intake cause airflow static pressure if i am having my H50 on my rear fans as exhaust? Would this isolate air? Cuz i'm getting sick of freezes when i play bfbc 2. I RARELY have that happened. I keep thinking maybe i had heat issues. I have to experiment my airflow. I think i have a dead spot somewhere or maybe something is wrong. I haven't even overclocked in awhile like LONG time.. it is @ 3ghz and i haven't done anything else.

imho if you have the fan as intake from the back then you are pretty much choking the system. have it as exhaust (you also have to keep in mind the heat graphics card and psu produce) for you to intake from the back. have good venting, use exhaust location for its purpose and have a side intake along with the front will pretty much give you decent results (if you think about it logically)


----------



## XtachiX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kevdog* 
How do I join this Club??

usually the first post, the main post, tells you everything you need to know about joining. look there and you'll know
you add yourself pretty much


----------



## Hellknight

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
should i slap you now or later, for i am not a "him" and if it reads max safe voltage is 1.4v on thier site, then 1.488v is pushing limits, it can be run 24/7, but expect a shorter cpu life span

ERRR... Phenoms are just peachy up to 1.5v.


----------



## Hellknight

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fssbzz* 
LOL. again. can some1 help me to explain to him?

my CPU come on stock 1.39V @3.2Ghz
it can bumped up to 3.8Ghz on stock voltage 1.39V

again. AMD is different then Intel

DUDE! I just cannot believe you can do 3.8Ghz on stock 1.40v?


----------



## Hellknight

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
its supposed to be 1.4v for all cpus as far as i know, i run at 1.388v so i'm pretty close, if u need 1.488 for 4ghz it means your doing something very wrong...

965 C3 revision comes per se 1.376v AND my 965BE C3 wont do 4.0 until 1.55v it.
No, theres nothing wrong. Some phenoms are LAZY.
YES im beating the arse of my 965 with those 1.55v but hey, i change cpu like changing my pants so its fine.
AND YES, i was bumed at how SPECIALLY LAZY was my sample.
My 720 C1 did [email protected] 1.5v so... i sweared a lot on the mother of the 965 one....


----------



## Hellknight

Quote:


Originally Posted by *novokaine* 
wow niiice temps, can i see a pic of ur set up, Right now i have 2, 3000 RPM fans doing a push/pull out've the case, do you guys think 3000 RPM is overkill or counter-productive?

3000 rpm is DEFINITIVELY overkill as the efective area of the H50 rad is already maxed out (cooling efficiency) by 50cfm whatever-cheap-o-fan you use on push pull setup.

@3000 rpm (I bet my mom yur using ultra kazes) you are fine with just 1 fan.


----------



## Hellknight

Quote:


Originally Posted by *novokaine* 
Just got one of these bad boys, unfortunately my temps increased, i have this thing set up with 2 Ultra Kaze fans doing push/pull so the heat is blowing OUT of the case. My idle temps are at 43 idle, load is 75-76, with 4GHz at 1.275vcore, does that sound like the temps i should be getting to you guys.

I took it off got rid of the stock paste and re put it on with some antec Thermal Paste, if that means anything. Oh and i forgot to mention, before i took off the stock paste it had on it because i had to reinstall it, the temps were i think 1 or 2 degrees Celsius lower and i had 2000 rpm fans doing push/pull on it, now i have 3000 rpms fans doing push/pull and the temps raised a couple degrees with my antec paste...

Any suggestions on how i can maybe get these temps to 70 degrees?

1)Get better TIM. Not that TIMs impact temps much though. (if you heard contrary, thats just horse popo)
2)2 3k rpm ultrakazes are overkill, actually they are generating just noise and turbulence.
3)Check the airflow inside your case.
4)Put the rad fans as intake (assuming you can rearrange your case airflow/ have upward eshaust fans.
5)Apply TIM CORRECTLY/wait for its curing time (if apply).
6)lap your proc/pump.
7)mod the H50.


----------



## richie_2010

i had my c3 965 be at 3.8 using 1.36 on voltage, tought this was quite good since stock is 1.4, temps were lil high so put it on stock till get my mx-2 paste.


----------



## Hellknight

Quote:


Originally Posted by *krescent* 
Okay so my two gentletyphoons have arrived....

However, they are branded 'servo' and not scythe. After some googling, I learned that servo is the manufacturer, scythe is the...whatever u call it.

Is a fan just a fan just a fan? or does the scythe one perform better, anyone know?

EDIT: they have the same model number, same speed and etc...

GTs are made by servo. Scythe only distributes them.


----------



## Hellknight

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Katch* 
Some pics of my loop in a SG05b;

Swiftech Micro Res
Swiftech MCW30
XSPC X20 VGA
6mm/9mm PVC tube
Koolance 1/4" Barbs on Res and GPU block
Distilled water + 15% Prestone & Fesser UV Green

Oh yeah; E8400, XFX Extreme 5770, 4Gb Hyperx, Zotac ITX 9300, 2x160Gb Scorpio blacks in Raid.

Need to pick up a pair of better fans, just stock from the H50 and SG05B case atm.




























Built and bled ready to install



















Slight bend of the graphics card required here but it seems to be ok























































Took off the anti-kink coz they looked dog and reorinetated the rad with the barbs down (no more bent GFX card);










Ok temps;

CPU @ 3.4GHz - GFX 5770 @ 960MHz / 1445MHz! (GPU 9681 in Vantage)

Core 1 - 37 / 47
Core 2 - 36 / 43
MCP - 33 / 47
GFX - 31 / 47

I'm impressed. I love tiny water cooling - next mission, hand built case with full loop.


I say.. the bending on your card is NOT sane. As for the rest.. it rocks.
Why people like to think something is going to go wrong with the pump?
The pump will work the same pumping 1, 100, 1000L the only variable is the time required as the pump will always work at the same rpm and the bearing will last the same 50k hours.









On a side note: HOLY COW thats a pretty tigh case...


----------



## Scud.Nor

Hello guys. Im new here xD I included the H50 in my first time build:










*Signs up for the H50 club*

Anyways, just bought two new UV reactive fans from GELID for use in a "push/pull" setup on my H50, and was looking for some answers, so thought this would be the right place









About the screws needed for the second fan, according to the Corsair Blog with these spesifications: 6-32x1-1/4. Where can I get them? Ive been to a few stores etc, but noone seems to have a clue. Is it something to do with American vs. European standards? Anyone in here from Scandinavia who happens to have a push pull setup who might have an answer to this?


----------



## rheicel

Please add me. I have H50 in my Rig#2. Thanks!


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *djsi38t*


You should have left the stock tim and should consider pulling air from outside.If you have top exhaust fans.

I noticed a ten degree drop from a dark night with the stock corsair setup pulling air in.


uhm no, his graphics card exhausts very hot air out the back, thus the H50 fans would suck it back in, killing cooling performance all together


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Scud.Nor*


Hello guys. Im new here xD I included the H50 in my first time build:










*Signs up for the H50 club*

Anyways, just bought two new UV reactive fans from GELID for use in a "push/pull" setup on my H50, and was looking for some answers, so thought this would be the right place









About the screws needed for the second fan, according to the Corsair Blog with these spesifications: 6-32x1-1/4. Where can I get them? Ive been to a few stores etc, but noone seems to have a clue. Is it something to do with American vs. European standards? Anyone in here from Scandinavia who happens to have a push pull setup who might have an answer to this?










I am in the UK and got them from here:_
http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/unc_cap_screws.htm
They ship worldwide, but you would have to check shipping payments to see if it is worthwhile. Hope this helps


----------



## mayford5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hellknight*


ERRR... Phenoms are just peachy up to 1.5v.


I concur. The site says max of 1.4v but I believe up to 1.5v won't even void your warrant. Anything over that I believe warranty is out the windows.
Andrew


----------



## Lordsheol

Currently have Corsair H50 in my rig. Picked it up after the Coolermaster water cooling kit I had been using bit the dust.

H50 instructions explain to install in Intake position. The result was temps going through the roof. I have no top vent, but I do have a place for a fan to mount on the side of my case cover. So I scavenged the Fan off the CoolerMaster watercooling kit that had died. After several experiments, I optimized my case airflow.

This is what worked for me....

Side Fan: Intake (blows directly onto my SLI setup)
H50: Exhaust
Powersupply: Exhaust

Not a single component in my rig experiences any heat issues, even under 100% load. This is what worked for me, mate. Good luck.


----------



## Scud.Nor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pedrosa* 
I am in the UK and got them from here:_
http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/unc_cap_screws.htm
They ship worldwide, but you would have to check shipping payments to see if it is worthwhile. Hope this helps


Alright nice one man, now we're getting somewhere









Just one thing to make sure though, the ones markes in the pic below, are those the right ones?


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Scud.Nor*


Alright nice one man, now we're getting somewhere









Just one thing to make sure though, the ones markes in the pic below, are those the right ones?











Yes, that's the ones. One thing though, make sure you have some allen keys!


----------



## hitman1985

dont you guys in england have local hardware stores ?

i mean, ordering a 50 cent item online is kinda meh.

i use 2.5inch long screws with phillips heads








for my full water setups i use threaded rods with thumb nuts


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hitman1985*


dont you guys in england have local hardware stores ?

i mean, ordering a 50 cent item online is kinda meh.

i use 2.5inch long screws with phillips heads








for my full water setups i use threaded rods with thumb nuts










The american size threads (unc,unf) are hard to find here in the UK (and also scandinavia i presume).


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pedrosa*


The american size threads(unc,unf) are hard to find here in the UK.


ok, then its understandable


----------



## novokaine

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hellknight* 
1)Get better TIM. Not that TIMs impact temps much though. (if you heard contrary, thats just horse popo)
2)2 3k rpm ultrakazes are overkill, actually they are generating just noise and turbulence.
3)Check the airflow inside your case.
4)Put the rad fans as intake (assuming you can rearrange your case airflow/ have upward eshaust fans.
5)Apply TIM CORRECTLY/wait for its curing time (if apply).
6)lap your proc/pump.
7)mod the H50.










Good Advice, i have AS5 coming in the mail set to get here friday, Can you elaborate on how to perform steps 5-7 being as meticulous as possible?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hellknight* 
3000 rpm is DEFINITIVELY overkill as the efective area of the H50 rad is already maxed out (cooling efficiency) by 50cfm whatever-cheap-o-fan you use on push pull setup.

@3000 rpm (I bet my mom yur using ultra kazes) you are fine with just 1 fan.

Totally disagree, While you're not changing the surface area you are increasing the efficiency of it by pushing more air through with a dual fan set-up. Proof? look at any fan comparison cooling graph on google when pushing air through a rad. I went from 2 X Sythe SFF21F at 1600 rpm to 2 X Ultra Kaze at 2000 rpm and the difference was at least a 2 degree drop at idle and about 3 degree drop at load. (noise didn't increase much either).


----------



## Scud.Nor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pedrosa* 
Yes, that's the ones. One thing though, make sure you have some allen keys!

Thanks bro







And I have plenty of allen keys xD


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XtachiX*


imho if you have the fan as intake from the back then you are pretty much choking the system. have it as exhaust (you also have to keep in mind the heat graphics card and psu produce) for you to intake from the back. have good venting, use exhaust location for its purpose and have a side intake along with the front will pretty much give you decent results (if you think about it logically)


Oh i do have the rear fans as exhaust always. I just wondered if having the side panel can make a difference or not. I just probably gonna have to order a fan for my northbridge cuz it DOES get hot and it's not copper or i could always order a heatsink the same size as that and replace it.


----------



## Carfanatic

I have had my H50 stock for about a month now using it as Corsair recommends and just the single fan and even though my case(In-Win Fanqua) is a really well ventilated case it does increase the temps by quite a lot especially for my video cards. I just ordered two Akasa Apache 120mm fans and going to change it to a push/pull and vent it out the back. I hope that will decrease my case temps back to normal and my fans on my video cards won't kick up to high speed.


----------



## t77snapshot

Hi, I just my 2nd H50 for my secondary rig (100% cruncher/folder), I tried to be a little more creative by mounting it to the top rather then the back of the case.

----------------------

So I go to my local hardware store and they don't have any 6/32" screws longer the 2 inchs, so I got long super long threaded stick and cut the size I needed for this project.


















Yes I know, I probably should have cut the grill out for better airflow blah blah blah, but I might want to sell this case in the future and I didn't want to decrease those chances by gutting it.



























I'm glad the fan wires were able to squeeze behind the panel without any modding.



































And there you have it! now it looks like a chimney poking out the top of my computer.


----------



## ThumperSD

I just installed my H50 last and not using the push/pull method yet because I havent received the fans that I need.

My idle temp in BIOS went from 26C to 19C. However when I load up my OS, I average 36 at idle which is exactly the same as my idle as my previous set up with a Cooler Master 212.

Why won't my system temp go lower when my OS is loaded?


----------



## Heckel99

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
I have had my H50 stock for about a month now using it as Corsair recommends and just the single fan and even though my case(In-Win Fanqua) is a really well ventilated case it does increase the temps by quite a lot especially for my video cards. I just ordered two Akasa Apache 120mm fans and going to change it to a push/pull and vent it out the back. I hope that will decrease my case temps back to normal and my fans on my video cards won't kick up to high speed.

I had the same problem and did what you are going to do and it is working great, even with it exhausting the push/pull with higher cfm it actually dropped my cpu temps and my case temps are back to normal


----------



## XtachiX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
Oh i do have the rear fans as exhaust always. I just wondered if having the side panel can make a difference or not. I just probably gonna have to order a fan for my northbridge cuz it DOES get hot and it's not copper or i could always order a heatsink the same size as that and replace it.









then yeah, have a side panel fan because it is going to help in temps and also get another fan on that nb chipset (80mm) or buy a decent nb heatsink from thermalright(fan not included but big heatsink that supports 120mm fan) or thermaltake (fan included decent size)


----------



## E46Johnny

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Scud.Nor* 
Hello guys. Im new here xD I included the H50 in my first time build:










*Signs up for the H50 club*

Anyways, just bought two new UV reactive fans from GELID for use in a "push/pull" setup on my H50, and was looking for some answers, so thought this would be the right place









About the screws needed for the second fan, according to the Corsair Blog with these spesifications: 6-32x1-1/4. Where can I get them? Ive been to a few stores etc, but noone seems to have a clue. Is it something to do with American vs. European standards? Anyone in here from Scandinavia who happens to have a push pull setup who might have an answer to this?









Hello i am from HommersÃ¥k/Sandnes, nice first build.









Check out http://www.industrisalg.no/ i think they are the best shop for nut`s & bolts, i think they supply both metric and inches.

You can also chek out http://www.tingstad.no/default.asp?menu=36&id=

Edit Correcting bad spelling, sorry English is my second Language.


----------



## XtachiX

hehe you said nuts


----------



## E46Johnny

Quote:


Originally Posted by *t77snapshot* 
Hi, I just my 2nd H50 for my secondary rig (100% cruncher/folder), I tried to be a little more creative by mounting it to the top rather then the back of the case.

----------------------

So I go to my local hardware store and they don't have any 6/32" screws longer the 2 inchs, so I got long super long threaded stick and cut the size I needed for this project.


















Yes I know, I probably should have cut the grill out for better airflow blah blah blah, but I might want to sell this case in the future and I didn't want to decrease those chances by gutting it.



























I'm glad the fan wires were able to squeeze behind the panel without any modding.



































And there you have it! now it looks like a chimney poking out the top of my computer.

















Put a cap nut on top off the tread rods and you vil have a much nicer look.









- http://122.155.7.128/~acamthai/image...ew/Cap_Nut.jpg


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *XtachiX* 
hehe you said nuts

immaturity at its best, yet funny, i just saw some guy post that has an asetek LCLC and is push pull exhaust same cpu as me, diff mobo,hes even at a lower voltage at 4ghz, yet his ibt is 75C lmao he needs to reseat real bad


----------



## pcnuttie

I like what you did with the shroud. So far my temps have been quite warm cuz it's very warm and hot outside so i assume it's room temps. I need to re-arrange my room and see if i can get better airflow and maybe move my PC away from the window since heat can hit the window and heat the side of the case? I will have to experiment airflow since i need to make sure it's flowing right. I'm a nut when it comes to temps cuz i want lower temps. I wanna use the shroud but i can't get it to fit cuz i don't have longer screws but i'll have to improvise and make it better. I think i should flip the rad upside down so the tubes be out of the way in the middle and air can run through without those tubes in the way. Gonna have to get back to you if anything changes. I have also thought of applying Artic Silver 5 but i'm gonna wait for now.


----------



## Heckel99

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ThumperSD*


I just installed my H50 last and not using the push/pull method yet because I havent received the fans that I need.

My idle temp in BIOS went from 26C to 19C. However when I load up my OS, I average 36 at idle which is exactly the same as my idle as my previous set up with a Cooler Master 212.

Why won't my system temp go lower when my OS is loaded?


I have the same chip as you and my idle temps were the same as my CM v8 as the stock H50 blowing into the case however while doing my research I found that the idle temps arent where the H50 thrives its the temps under load, Check out this video







YouTube- Corsair Hydro Series H50 versus a "High-Performance" CPU cooler
I have since did a push/pull exhausting out and my idle temps are now around 32C from 37C at idle and 65C at load

not sure why they jump up when the OS loads, be interesting to see if anyone knows


----------



## Reactions

Can someone PM me which fans will give best performance aka temperature in Push/Pull with the H50 and which TIM I should buy along with it? Impossible to keep track of alle the posts.


----------



## Carfanatic

Since I made my first post I dug out the camera so I could show everyone my setup. Going to post a lot of pics and tell the directions I have my fans flowing. Looking for any suggestions I can get on improving my airflow to keep everything cooler.



























The top fan is venting/blowing out.









I have the side fan blowing out.









Right now I have the H50 drawing cool air from outside in changing it to push/pull and venting out soon as I get my fans in the mail.


















I have the top fan blowing in to keep my two HDD's cool. The bottom fan is venting out.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Reactions*


Can someone PM me which fans will give best performance aka temperature in Push/Pull with the H50 and which TIM I should buy along with it? Impossible to keep track of alle the posts.


I personally used the first post in this thread the fan guide/list and chose what I wanted from the listed CFM/RPM/Noise. I chose Akasa Apache 120mm fans.

You will get many suggestions on what you use for TIM. I personally use AS5 but if you are not use to using it I wouldn't suggest it because it is conductive and you can fry you CPU they do offer CÃ©ramique also by artic silver that is non conductive I would suggest that for anyone for their first time.


----------



## XtachiX

5 days until everything i ordered will arrive (will keep counting) as soon as i get those things i will mod the haf 922 case and post pics and stuff


----------



## krescent

I'm building my first rig very very very soon, just waiting on my RAM and HDD (entered my shipping address wrong..way too excited...)

I am getting very mod-happy, and have some questions:
(PC K62 // i7 930 plan to OC ~4kmhz // Asus DirectCU 5850 stock cooling)

1. Should I just buy a microres now, and mod my H50 during the initial build? It is definitely something I will do down the line, why not now?
2. Same question as previous, but regarding lapping. (also, what's the best way to remove the TIM? isproply 91%?)
3. Does the MicroRes Rev. 2 come with 1/4 ID connections stock? or would I need to get them seperately?
4. How does the loop go? my intuition says: CPU-out(hot)>>Res(warm)>>RAD(cooling)>>CPU-IN(cool). is there a way to tell which tube is in/out

Currently I have 2 AP-15s for push/pull. Plan on mounting the rad in the front of my case as intake (unless someone convinces me otherwise). Figure this is the best option since they say intake>exhaust, and my gpu will be exhausting out the back. Bought a 15$ spotcool for kicks and ram cooling.

*EDIT:* I plan to have the spotcool blowing cool air upwards near my HDD cage as well---I figure I can push some of that hot rad air upwards to my top-fan exhaust, and provide some air to my chipset/ram as well.
*EDIT2: Lapping voids cpu warranty--that answers that question. Id atleast like to make sure it works before doing any warranty voiding heh*

Lastly, Anything I should be forewarned about? very excited!!


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *krescent* 
I'm building my first rig very very very soon, just waiting on my RAM and HDD (entered my shipping address wrong..way too excited...)

I am getting very mod-happy, and have some questions:
(PC K62 // i7 930 plan to OC ~4kmhz // Asus DirectCU 5850 stock cooling)

1. Should I just buy a microres now, and mod my H50 during the initial build? It is definitely something I will do down the line, why not now?
2. Same question as previous, but regarding lapping. (also, what's the best way to remove the TIM? isproply 91%?)
3. Does the MicroRes Rev. 2 come with 1/4 ID connections stock? or would I need to get them seperately?
4. How does the loop go? my intuition says: CPU-out(hot)>>Res(warm)>>RAD(cooling)>>CPU-IN(cool). is there a way to tell which tube is in/out

Currently I have 2 AP-15s for push/pull. Plan on mounting the rad in the front of my case as intake (unless someone convinces me otherwise). Figure this is the best option since they say intake>exhaust, and my gpu will be exhausting out the back. Bought a 15$ spotcool for kicks and ram cooling.

*EDIT:* I plan to have the spotcool blowing cool air upwards near my HDD cage as well---I figure I can push some of that hot rad air upwards to my top-fan exhaust, and provide some air to my chipset/ram as well.
*EDIT2: Lapping voids cpu warranty--that answers that question. Id atleast like to make sure it works before doing any warranty voiding heh*

Lastly, Anything I should be forewarned about? very excited!!

mod it later, get used to using it first, i'm still using a stock H50, had it since december of '09


----------



## pcnuttie

So it really doesn't matter how you position your rad? Those tubes can water upside down? I thought you're suppose to use the rad tubes towards down to flow up the rad? I did a experiment to make sure i have airflow and i used paper and tape and i saw all of where the air went. I do have it right. I just a little disturbed how my tubes are in my case. I kinda want it UP the air instead of downwards. Ideas? Or should i leave it alone?


----------



## t77snapshot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Since I made my first post I dug out the camera so I could show everyone my setup. Going to post a lot of pics and tell the directions I have my fans flowing. Looking for any suggestions I can get on improving my airflow to keep everything cooler.











Have you ever thought of taking that top fan and just mounting it to the rad? that way you have a nice push/pull fan setup on the H50 and should lower your temps a little bits.


----------



## Emerican

Im really intrested in doing some mods, but im a little confused...

in one of the mod guides, someone recommended 6mm id and 8mm od. but on sites like performance-pcs it has 1/3in and such...

it would be greatly appreciated if someone could link to some tubing or give some pointers









EDIT :: like this http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=2057


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Emerican*


Im really intrested in doing some mods, but im a little confused...

in one of the mod guides, someone recommended 6mm id and 8mm od. but on sites like performance-pcs it has 1/3in and such...

it would be greatly appreciated if someone could link to some tubing or give some pointers









EDIT :: like this http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=2057


 In inches, 1/4" ID tubing works the best. That is the size of the barbs and you can pick up some tubing in home depot. That's what I did. It's in the plumbing section.


----------



## Emerican

so i would be fine with the 1/4 then? i just want to get the tubing correct before i start anything. trying to go for that double rad. setup


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Emerican*


so i would be fine with the 1/4 then? i just want to get the tubing correct before i start anything. trying to go for that double rad. setup










 yup I am still using 1/4" tubing right now as we speak.


----------



## Emerican

my h50 =D


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t77snapshot*


Have you ever thought of taking that top fan and just mounting it to the rad? that way you have a nice push/pull fan setup on the H50 and should lower your temps a little bits.










Nope sorry should have posted it again in that post I am just waiting for two Akasa Apache fans to come in the mail then I will have a push/pull and going to vent it out the back.


----------



## krescent

waiiiiit a second...

will the H50 reach the 5.25 bays with the stock hosing? or would it be necessary to re-tube?

using a pc-k62 lancool.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *krescent*


waiiiiit a second...

will the H50 reach the 5.25 bays with the stock hosing? or would it be necessary to re-tube?

using a pc-k62 lancool.


I believe it only reaches the end of them, not all the way up front. I think someone already did it with that case.


----------



## chris14029

i just put as5 on seeing how that i have some ocz stuff coming in the mail and so i have a two degree drop thats really neat i hope ocz will do better


----------



## Sethy666

Dear fellow H50 owners...

The Chimp Challenge has commence and the bad news is that OCN is getting slammed BADLY by the EVGA team.

If you have not already done so,,, PLEASE start folding for this forum.

How to...

*CPU Folding*
http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...t-windows.html

*GPU Folding*
http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...pu-client.html

Thanks folks!


----------



## chris14029

Sethy666 said:


> Dear fellow H50 owners...
> 
> The Chimp Challenge has commence and the bad news is that OCN is getting slammed BADLY by the EVGA team.
> 
> If you have not already done so,,, PLEASE start folding for this forum.
> 
> How to...
> 
> *CPU Folding*
> http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...t-windows.html
> 
> *GPU Folding*
> http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...pu-client.html
> 
> Thanks folks![/
> 
> i wanted more ppl to start folding so we could get more points., it was 3 in the morning i was tired.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chris14029* 
wow we sure are fold da** you fold

Im sorry, I dont get what you said.


----------



## pcnuttie

Speak English please.


----------



## GoTMaXPoWeR

I'm interested in buying one of these, is it hard to set up? Does it come with everything needed to set it up?


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GoTMaXPoWeR* 
I'm interested in buying one of these, is it hard to set up? Does it come with everything needed to set it up?

it takes a unschooled person approx 20 minutes following the instructions.

very easy and step by step instructions are key.

and yes, everything you need is in the package


----------



## Hellknight

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
Totally disagree, While you're not changing the surface area you are increasing the efficiency of it by pushing more air through with a dual fan set-up. Proof? look at any fan comparison cooling graph on google when pushing air through a rad. I went from 2 X Sythe SFF21F at 1600 rpm to 2 X Ultra Kaze at 2000 rpm and the difference was at least a 2 degree drop at idle and about 3 degree drop at load. (noise didn't increase much either).

Then again, i invite you to pick up a pair of 3k rpm ultra kazes and make a comparison vs your 2k rpm, make conclusions. While its true that the faster you take heat away, the better it will perform, it is also true that the surface area of the H50 rad is made to radiate an x amount of heat where x is a fixed value limited by its own size.


----------



## dvnczyk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 
it takes a unschooled person approx 20 minutes following the instructions.

very easy and step by step instructions are key.

and yes, everything you need is in the package









Wouldn't be that sure... I burned my mobo while mounting... ( Maybe its just me being dumb)... xD


----------



## XtachiX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hellknight* 
Then again, i invite you to pick up a pair of 3k rpm ultra kazes and make a comparison vs your 2k rpm, make conclusions. While its true that the faster you take heat away, the better it will perform, it is also true that the surface area of the H50 rad is made to radiate an x amount of heat where x is a fixed value limited by its own size.

so what would that x amount of heat would be? (in terms of cfm)
any ideas?


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dvnczyk* 
Wouldn't be that sure... I burned my mobo while mounting... ( Maybe its just me being dumb)... xD
















if you follow the easy to see pictures alone its like a kid building legos....

idk how you could possibly screw this up tbh. i mounted at least 20 of these units in pcs so far, not one had an issue with the board . hmmmm


----------



## xquisit

I don't know how this is possible... but my ambient/idle temps just dropped by switching from rear push/pull exhaust -> front push/pull intake!!!

I was at 38*c-41*c ambient with rear exhaust & 41*C on all 4 cores (idle).

I am at 32*C ambient with front intake & 34*C on all 4 cores (idle).

What the heck?!?!?!

Brb, time to go OC and take advantage of this change... my setup is so ghetto with zip ties and tape..it's not worthy of showing... Might as well reseat my H50 <since I know there was a tad too much AS5 added>!


----------



## corx

Maybe rear has all of the hot air from gpu and psu?


----------



## GoTMaXPoWeR

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hitman1985*


it takes a unschooled person approx 20 minutes following the instructions.

very easy and step by step instructions are key.

and yes, everything you need is in the package










Awesome. Was just a bit sceptical considering I've never dabbled with water cooling before. It'd be great to get rid of air.


----------



## xquisit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *corx*


Maybe rear has all of the hot air from gpu and psu?


quite possible, and I did remove some dust from the radiatior...










well, i found a new home for my push/pull setup!

next, i will try new TIM + new fans!!!

+ fan shroud + electrical tape to keep the air in the setup!


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *krescent* 
waiiiiit a second...

will the H50 reach the 5.25 bays with the stock hosing? or would it be necessary to re-tube?

using a pc-k62 lancool.

Absolutely it will.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *krescent*


waiiiiit a second...

will the H50 reach the 5.25 bays with the stock hosing? or would it be necessary to re-tube?

using a pc-k62 lancool.


Has anyone tried this on a HAF932 ? I'm quite happy with my current idle/load temps(push/pull/shrouded exhaust) but was thinking about changing over to front push/pull/shrouded intake setup when I get my new Sanyo denki fans (toying with the idea of scythe ultra kaze 3k rpm ones aswel) Would love to see some pics and feedback from you guys, temps etc

Cheers!


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Dear fellow H50 owners...

The Chimp Challenge has commence and the bad news is that OCN is getting slammed BADLY by the EVGA team.

If you have not already done so,,, PLEASE start folding for this forum.

How to...

*CPU Folding*
http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...t-windows.html

*GPU Folding*
http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...pu-client.html

Thanks folks!


It's disgraceful we are getting beat. So much capability on this forum, not being used. I even have my lowly laptop folding!


----------



## Magus2727

I got the H50 so I could keep foldiong last month... my old cooler was doing a sad job the H50 keeps me nice and cool under 50*C.

Lets Get every one on Board... Its real Easy to set up.... "Set it and Forget it!"


----------



## goliath27

hi guys i have an antec 1200 and didn't want to remove the rear exhaust to mount the radiator so i just left it as exhaust and mounted my radiator on it. so right now the radiator isn't getting any fresh air so is a solution to this just mount another fan on the front of the radiator as intake so it's now in push/pull? thanks


----------



## chris14029

when i fold on my gpu it only uses half of the gpu and it will use half of my cpu why?


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chris14029* 
when i fold on my gpu it only uses half of the gpu and it will use half of my cpu why?

I am not 100% sure. Getting help in this section of the forum will be best since more people there are active folders and can help.

http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...ing-home-team/

While you move the question, What guide did you use to set up your Folding Client?

Has any one experianced a failure in the H50 to experiance what the run time is of the pump? I have the rig running 24/7.... Guess I should turn on the thermal shut down options in my BIOS....


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chris14029* 
when i fold on my gpu it only uses half of the gpu and it will use half of my cpu why?

... { i think you might get a better response/answer if you were to ask in the Right Thread for this concern . . . } . . .









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Mariusz803

Hey everyone,

I've been using my H50 for a couple of months now and i've noticed something odd about my temps. They have increased constantly by about 10 degrees. When i touch the pump it feels very hot after running for a bout 5 hours.

Is this typical? I feel this is the cause for my increased temps.

Any opinions / comments welcome.


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *goliath27* 
hi guys i have an antec 1200 and didn't want to remove the rear exhaust to mount the radiator so i just left it as exhaust and mounted my radiator on it. so right now the radiator isn't getting any fresh air so is a solution to this just mount another fan on the front of the radiator as intake so it's now in push/pull? thanks

I do add a fan on the rad eventhough the antec 1200 has one too, Make it a exhaust and the other fan as intake exhaust<--fan--RAD--fan--Intake fan. on the rear. Make sure you got some extra long screws cuz i didn't and i had to go get them. I'm tempted to try maybe move my H50 to the front of my case cuz i heard temps get lower that way i dunno. Might have to do some experimenting, I still need to do those shrouds. I just can't do it on my exhaust cuz it's too close to my cpu, the shroud might have to be outside of the case.
I did a experiment with my case yesterday by putting notepad papers and tape in each spot where the airflow is in my 1200. I noticed the air on top intake blows harder and faster than the 2 on below and i did turn the knobs to see how fast. That's probably where i MIGHT put my rad on since it's blowing good as a intake. I do rather have my rad as exhaust so i can let the HEAT escape out! I'm almost wishing i can go custom water cooling cuz i saw a new rad that came out but i'm not ready to walk into deep waters yet.


----------



## chris14029

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
... { i think you might get a better response/answer if you were to ask in the Right Thread for this concern . . . } . . .









mr-Charles .









.

yeah i will thanks just making sure know one had a answer right off the bat thanks


----------



## chris14029

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mariusz803* 
Hey everyone,

I've been using my H50 for a couple of months now and i've noticed something odd about my temps. They have increased constantly by about 10 degrees. When i touch the pump it feels very hot after running for a bout 5 hours.

Is this typical? I feel this is the cause for my increased temps.

Any opinions / comments welcome.

if you have speed fan ( i think there are others than read it) check your pump rpm im sure its fine but its worth looking into (should be around 1400 i think)


----------



## pcnuttie

HWMonitor monitors everything from RPM of your fans,voltages and temps. Great software and you don't need to install it. You can just download the non install version and take a look how much RPM it's running.


----------



## GoTMaXPoWeR

Just took the plunge and ordered one of these. It's on one day business delivery so it should be here tomorrow.

Quick question, if I'm replacing the cooler on my CPU will I need to take out the motherboard and replace the backplate or can I use the one I've already fitted?


----------



## pcnuttie

you have to replace it, it's made for that. Take it out and get it done with. Remember to ground yourself







I had to reset everything back the way it was with my oc so i'm glad i had a save profile in bios.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


I am not 100% sure. Getting help in this section of the forum will be best since more people there are active folders and can help.

http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...ing-home-team/

While you move the question, What guide did you use to set up your Folding Client?

Has any one experianced a failure in the H50 to experiance what the run time is of the pump? I have the rig running 24/7.... Guess I should turn on the thermal shut down options in my BIOS....


Mine has been going 24/7 since the end of last year.


----------



## raptor5150

Just joined the club, Installed mine lastnight







dropped my idle temps to 29c from 40 with stock cooler







@25c ambient, also dropped my temps over 15c running prime95 for 30 min and never got above 43c. I have been reading this thread for weeks now and took alot of the great advice given here. I used fan>case>radiator>shroud>fan with CM Blademaster fans and is very quiet. Thanks again for the good advice as I am very pleased


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *raptor5150*


Just joined the club, Installed mine lastnight







dropped my idle temps to 29c from 40 with stock cooler







@25c ambient, also dropped my temps over 15c running prime95 for 30 min and never got above 43c. I have been reading this thread for weeks now and took alot of the great advice given here. I used fan>case>radiator>shroud>fan with CM Blademaster fans and is very quiet. Thanks again for the good advice as I am very pleased










those are very good drops man there is a lot of very good advice here







post pics if you what you have


----------



## GoTMaXPoWeR

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


you have to replace it, it's made for that. Take it out and get it done with. Remember to ground yourself







I had to reset everything back the way it was with my oc so i'm glad i had a save profile in bios.


Damn it. I was dreading that, this means ****ing around taking everything out.


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


HWMonitor monitors everything from RPM of your fans,voltages and temps. Great software and you don't need to install it. You can just download the non install version and take a look how much RPM it's running.


i use that and speed fan i like speen fan better more options i think, its closer to my bios temps to wich is what i trust the most.


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoTMaXPoWeR*


Damn it. I was dreading that, this means ****ing around taking everything out.










wait dont you have a side panel that has a cut out of whre the cpu is? i have a antec 300 and it does

WOW why does the antec 300 have a cut but the 900 does not?


----------



## raptor5150

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chris14029* 
wait dont you have a side panel that has a cut out of whre the cpu is? i have a antec 300 and it does

WOW why does the antec 300 have a cut but the 900 does not?

My 900 doesn't have the cutout, had to remove the mobo...I would post pics but im not too proud of my wiring job. I need to mod the case badly


----------



## Kand

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chris14029* 
wait dont you have a side panel that has a cut out of whre the cpu is? i have a antec 300 and it does

WOW why does the antec 300 have a cut but the 900 does not?

The 300 does NOT have a cut out for easily handling a cpu retention bracket off a motherboard by default.

I'm guessing you bought that case modified.


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kand*


The 300 does NOT have a cut out for easily handling a cpu retention bracket off a motherboard by default.

I'm guessing you bought that case modified.


uhh no 
looking right at bro 
nice little cut out
very handy
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811129066
edit wait your right then what the hell is this? maybe i have a diff model i cant uplode right but when i can i will


----------



## Volkswagen

I think the 300 has been improved a little as in a new version or something but sells under the same name. I am sure if you order one now it will have the cut out.


----------



## Kand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


uhh no 
looking right at bro 
nice little cut out
very handy
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811129066


----------



## pcnuttie

Please make a thread about modding your case. This is strictly only for H50 discussions.


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kand*












i got it a while ago so it might be differnt now


----------



## Kand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


i got it a while ago so it might be differnt now


Lol. Nice. Apparently they release a V2.










V1 300.


----------



## chris14029

btw i put artic silver 5 on here while i wait for my ocz to come in and by the looks of it it needed to be taken of. this was the stuff it came with


----------



## pcnuttie

Has anyone done a thread and experiment on thermal with the H50? Comparing to Artic Silver 5 to the rest of others?


----------



## Kand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Has anyone done a thread and experiment on thermal with the H50? Comparing to Artic Silver 5 to the rest of others?


http://www.overclock.net/other-cooli...mal-paste.html


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Has anyone done a thread and experiment on thermal with the H50? Comparing to Artic Silver 5 to the rest of others?


i have as5 on right now so far a 2c drop from stock stuff and my ocz will be here soon


----------



## fssbzz

as5 have 200hours cure time.so wait for 200hours burn in, it will probably drop a few more C'


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


btw i put artic silver 5 on here while i wait for my ocz to come in and by the looks of it it needed to be taken of. this was the stuff it came with


Yea i notice that too. Maybe i should have wiped off the sides so it doesn't get thermal on the outside of the cpu area. I need to find that product thermal cuz i wanna order it and see comparison with my other artic silver thermal. I'm using the stock thermal for now. Temps are fine. I just think it should have been a bit lower, i have a quad not a i7. So far it's fine. I just am picky and love lower temps even at loads.


----------



## Kand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


i have as5 on right now so far a 2c drop from stock stuff and my ocz will be here soon


You do realize that was Shin-Etsu you just peeled off your base.

Tho. The way it was applied so generously couldhave lead to air bubbles.


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
Has anyone done a thread and experiment on thermal with the H50? Comparing to Artic Silver 5 to the rest of others?

I put son AS5 on my CPU before I put in my H50 and realized it came with pre-applied TIM lol


----------



## ThumperSD

Count me in


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ThumperSD* 
I put son AS5 on my CPU before I put in my H50 and realized it came with pre-applied TIM lol

u need to wipe/clean off that pre-applied or your AS5. don't mix


----------



## pcnuttie

LOL you put thermal both together? OMG.. that's badddddddddd! Looks like you screwed up and looks like you have to wipe them off and put your thermal back on. Man what a waste, would been nice to see how your temps with the stock depending on how you set it up in your case. Everyone make mistakes. Next time pay attention lol


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


u need to wipe/clean off that pre-applied or your AS5. don't mix


nononono, I cleaned the AS5 when I realized there is pre-applied paste on the H50

LOL relax people


----------



## pcnuttie

Oh? well that was a bummer


----------



## wazz

I just got the H50 two days ago, I already love them temp drop.. But I cant seem to locate 4 more screws to mount my second fan. Any suggestions. ill post pic's of the rig as soon as i get them


----------



## Sethy666

Fellow H50 Owners...

We are catching up to Team EVGA in the Chimp Challenge!

OCN is throwing everything at them in a Herculean effort...

Remember the Spartans in 300? Thats *US*!

What we need now is GPU folders to raise our points quickly.

*If you can help, NOW is the time people.*

_We few, we happy few, we band of brothers;
For he to-day that sheds his blood with me
Shall be my brother; be he ne'er so vile,
This day shall gentle his condition:
And gentlemen in England now a-bed
Shall think themselves accursed they were not here,
And hold their manhoods cheap whiles any speaks
That fought with us upon Saint Crispin's day. _

Shakespeare's Henry V

Lets do it!

Thanks


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kand*


You do realize that was Shin-Etsu you just peeled off your base.

Tho. The way it was applied so generously couldhave lead to air bubbles.


yes but i can order it off line if i want to but i awnted to try all three


----------



## Killhouse

FOLD FOR THE CAUSE - CHIMP CHALLENGE.
EVERY RIG HELPS!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Fellow H50 Owners...

We are catching up to Team EVGA in the Chimp Challenge!

OCN is throwing everything at them in a Herculean effort...

Remember the Spartans in 300? Thats *US*!

What we need now is GPU folders to raise our points quickly.

*If you can help, NOW is the time people.*

_We few, we happy few, we band of brothers;
For he to-day that sheds his blood with me
Shall be my brother; be he ne'er so vile,
This day shall gentle his condition:
And gentlemen in England now a-bed
Shall think themselves accursed they were not here,
And hold their manhoods cheap whiles any speaks
That fought with us upon Saint Crispin's day. _

Shakespeare's Henry V

Lets do it!

Thanks


----------



## thx1138

I've complained about my H50 before but finally I'm not ashamed of being a part of the club add me in


----------



## Killhouse

Looking good thx1138, add yourself to the spreadsheet on the first page









Just a small note - I notice that you've put washers between the fan and your shroud. Unfortunately this allows the air to escape as you're offering it an easy escape: you might see better results if you can seal that gap with some tape or some alternative.

Those are some sexy fans though


----------



## chris14029

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Looking good thx1138, add yourself to the spreadsheet on the first page









Just a small note - I notice that you've put washers between the fan and your shroud. Unfortunately this allows the air to escape as you're offering it an easy escape: you might see better results if you can seal that gap with some tape or some alternative.

Those are some sexy fans though









will air gaps as such really make a diff is so then i need to do some tapeing


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thx1138* 
I've complained about my H50 before but finally I'm not ashamed of being a part of the club add me in


















so what temp u get now


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thx1138* 
I've complained about my H50 before but finally I'm not ashamed of being a part of the club add me in


















you need a few more fans


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Looking good thx1138, add yourself to the spreadsheet on the first page









Just a small note - I notice that you've put washers between the fan and your shroud. Unfortunately this allows the air to escape as you're offering it an easy escape: you might see better results if you can seal that gap with some tape or some alternative.

Those are some sexy fans though









Thanks, it's because of the way I mounted it only using the four screws that came with the h50 to mount both shrouds. I'm going to lowes tomorrow to get some longer screws so I can hold them in on all 4 corners.

Does anyone know the exact dimensions of the screws that came with the h50? I'm afraid I'll get something too long and puncture the fins.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chris14029* 
will air gaps as such really make a diff is so then i need to do some tapeing

You better start taping because when I had my old push pull setup with shrouds my temps dropped 2c when I taped up the gaps.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fssbzz* 
so what temp u get now









Sorry man, almost forgot. I'm at work right now and I just got done installing the fans right before I left BUT my idle temps went from 35c to 28c. I added two small fans to the northbridge cooler (you can't see one because its blocked by the wind tunnel I created for the h50) just by adding the two small fans my nb temps dropped over 10c! As soon as I get home I'm going to be doing some serious benching/folding after that I'll let you know the final verdict on the load temps.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ThumperSD* 
you need a few more fans









Well I did just get a 160cfm delta







It's only 90mm and loud as a jet though.


----------



## Looski

This is all through the thread, I know. I have read back a bit and see people mentioning that the ultra kaze as a good fan to use p/p on this cooler. Some others said its way overkill and just obnoxiously loud. I was going to buy the ultra kaze 3000 this eve and was just making sure this is a great option or if there is another option higher recommended. Thanks and sorry for the repetition.


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thx1138* 

Sorry man, almost forgot. I'm at work right now and I just got done installing the fans right before I left BUT my idle temps went from 35c to 28c. I added two small fans to the northbridge cooler (you can't see one because its blocked by the wind tunnel I created for the h50) just by adding the two small fans my nb temps dropped over 10c! As soon as I get home I'm going to be doing some serious benching/folding after that I'll let you know the final verdict on the load temps.

.

those are your homemade shroud aight?


----------



## wazz

im having trouble posting the pic's of my rig with the h50.. ill get it up soon.

http://i948.photobucket.com/albums/a.../DSCF31942.jpg


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thx1138* 
I've complained about my H50 before but finally I'm not ashamed of being a part of the club add me in









Nice! I love UKs...









Tape those shrouds... works for me.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wazz* 
[URL=http://s948.photobucket.com/albums/ad329/andwhat*****/%5B/IMG]http://s948.photobucket.com/albums/ad329/andwhat*****/[/IMG[/URL]]

im having trouble posting the pic's of my rig with the h50.. ill get it up soon.
[/TD]
[/TR][/TABLE]
It looks like maybe the name of the picture is causing some kind of filter or something so it is changing it to *** instead of the real name of the pic.


----------



## Erick Silver

I am planning on going to the H50 here real soon. If I turn it sideways will it fit in 2 5.25 in drive bays(dvd drive slots)? I have taken out 2 of the bay covers and installed modders mesh and a 80mm fan set at intake. I want to put the Rad in the same slots.


----------



## wazz

yeah im going to see if i can change that

http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/y...o/DSCF3193.jpg 
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/y.../DSCF31942.jpg
this one should work..


----------



## wazz

ok, much better.. im in


----------



## thx1138

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


those are your homemade shroud aight?


Huh? Yeah they are homemade shrouds I just cut up some junk 120's.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*


I am planning on going to the H50 here real soon. If I turn it sideways will it fit in 2 5.25 in drive bays(dvd drive slots)? I have taken out 2 of the bay covers and installed modders mesh and a 80mm fan set at intake. I want to put the Rad in the same slots.


So you want to put the rad in the drive bay facing up or down? I dont like that idea.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wazz*


yeah im going to see if i can change that

http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/y...o/DSCF3193.jpg
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/y.../DSCF31942.jpg
this one should work..


Put


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thx1138*


Huh? Yeah they are homemade shrouds I just cut up some junk 120's.


cant wait my final is done.
so i got time to make those shroud + 2x UK 2000s is on the way








and my lapping kit is on the way too


----------



## ToxicAdam

Got my new motherboard today... good by MSI, hello Gigabyte!


----------



## wazz

yeah i still cant get it to load right.. but i hope you got the jist from the url tabs for the pic's..


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wazz*


url]http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy103/wazmo/DSCF3193.jpg[/url] [IMG] [IMG] url]http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy103/wazmo/DSCF31942.jpg[/url] [IMG]

[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
[IMG alt=""]http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy103/wazmo/DSCF3193.jpg


----------



## wazz

thank you..lol.. you got it for me.. you rock man.. mad props to you


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote me to see how I done it.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wazz*


thank you..lol.. you got it for me.. you rock man.. mad props to you


meh, i'm too slow


----------



## wazz

to thoes that helped get these pic's up.. mad props to you..


----------



## chris14029

ok noob question how do you post pic like that i only know how to attache pics


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chris14029* 
ok noob question how do you post pic like that i only know how to attache pics


Code:



Code:


[CODE]
[img]your image link[/img]

[/CODE]

upload your photo to photo hosting site and get your image link from there.
photobucket.com
imageshack.us


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chris14029* 
ok noob question how do you post pic like that i only know how to attache pics

You have have them hosted on an external site first. Then you get a url link from the hosting site and the easiest way is to click the little Icon above it looks like a mountain range sorta yellow background and it will open up a little window that you paste your picture url in and then hit ok and it adds the


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


You have have them hosted on an external site first. Then you get a url link from the hosting site and the easiest way is to click the little Icon above it looks like a mountain range sorta yellow background and it will open up a little window that you paste your picture url in and then hit ok and it adds the for you so it will show here in the forums and not a link to see it.

[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
thanks


----------



## pcnuttie

Today i was cleaning my pc and i decided to flip the rad to give more room for my airflow and i was a bit surprised i had a little more temp improvement. Do you think a Cooler Master fan that has 90CFM would be great to keep this cooler than the corsair fan? I want it to be able be LED or none. I wonder if there is any decent fans that can cool the rad much easier?

I'm using my Antec 1200 as a <----pulls out--exhaust,rad,intake fan corsair fan<---pulls out

What you guys think?


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Today i was cleaning my pc and i decided to flip the rad to give more room for my airflow and i was a bit surprised i had a little more temp improvement. Do you think a Cooler Master fan that has 90CFM would be great to keep this cooler than the corsair fan? I want it to be able be LED or none. I wonder if there is any decent fans that can cool the rad much easier?

I'm using my Antec 1200 as a <----pulls out--exhaust,rad,intake fan corsair fan<---pulls out

What you guys think?


get 2x ultra kaze 2000s or 2x ultra kaze 3000s


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Today i was cleaning my pc and i decided to flip the rad to give more room for my airflow and i was a bit surprised i had a little more temp improvement. Do you think a Cooler Master fan that has 90CFM would be great to keep this cooler than the corsair fan? I want it to be able be LED or none. I wonder if there is any decent fans that can cool the rad much easier?

I'm using my Antec 1200 as a <----pulls out--exhaust,rad,intake fan corsair fan<---pulls out

What you guys think?


I think your much better off using two of the exact same fans and put the fans both on the same motherboard header so neither one of them is restricting the other in any way. The stock Corsair fan is rated at somewhere around 50cfm. There is a lot quieter fans for sure that give more cfm than the stock fan for sure. Something else to consider is adding a shroud in between the fan and the radiator if you have the space for it.


----------



## pcnuttie

Good tip and i like your avatar it's funny.. cool heatsink his head lol.

I don't have room for a shroud cuz it takes up space but could do it behind the case. Temps are fine anyways. I'll do some more experiment this week later, gonna order some different fans and see if i see a difference. Not just that i wanna do try artic silver my cooler instead of the Shin that comes with it but so far it's doing the job for now.


----------



## Erick Silver

Quote:



So you want to put the rad in the drive bay facing up or down? I dont like that idea.


Actually I want to put it sideways.


----------



## PCSarge

DAMN DAMN DAMN DAMN!

i got my 5770, and my cpu smp folding, but my secondary gpu my old 9600 gso, wont download work packets, so i'm losing like 6k ppd x.x i am very angry... very angry indeed


----------



## Kevdog

Hey all, I've seen a few posts with those fan shrouds are they helping a lot??
And if so are you putting them before or after the fan??


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kevdog* 
Hey all, I've seen a few posts with those fan shrouds are they helping a lot??
And if so are you putting them before or after the fan??

You should put them before the fan so it should go:

Radiator -> Shroud -> Fan

What the fan shroud does is eliminate or reduce the "dead zone" of the fan where there is no air blowing because of the center part of the fan where there is no blade.


----------



## ThirdLap

Guess I should join, seeing how I friggin' love my H50.









Here's a of my H50 with the radiator mounted externally:


----------



## WoofWoof

Sign me up guys!










EDIT: woops


----------



## ThirdLap

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WoofWoof*


Sign me up guys!


Dude... I think that pic violates the TOS/Forum Rules.

http://www.overclock.net/view.php?pg=rulestos


----------



## SchiTzo

I've added an H50 to my System and would love to be added!!

I tried adding my self as i"d seen others told to do so, but see no option to file>save.
Thanks in advance


----------



## Erick Silver

Still waiting on an answer if I can mount the rad sideways.


----------



## XtachiX

4 more days, count down


----------



## XtachiX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*


Still waiting on an answer if I can mount the rad sideways.


what do you mean by sideways?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*


Still waiting on an answer if I can mount the rad sideways.


Yes.


----------



## DeckerDontPlay

Just recently picked up an H50. Its a pretty awesome little cooler. Im thinking about modding it.


----------



## Iamthebull

Here are some pics of mine mounted. (This was before I fixed the install)


----------



## XtachiX

so if you have the radiator sideways does that mean you're putting less strain on the pump or something?


----------



## PCSarge

ok now i'm really mad... neither pf my gpu clients are downloading work, but my smp client is fine.... ***


----------



## pcnuttie

I wouldn't mount it sideways but you can mount it the regular way or turn it upside down, just not sideways.


----------



## PCSarge

it does not mater which way you mount it nuttie, its a sealed unit, it wont effect cooling performance any i've had mine sideways, upside down , right side up. and on 45 degree angles in my case


----------



## GoTMaXPoWeR

TNT tried to deliver the cooler today, and nobody was here to pick it up. I've just rearranged delivery, but the next day they can deliver is Monday.

...and to think I paid Â£6 extra for business delivery, so much for that muck around.

Anyway one question to any H50 and Antec 900 owners; what's the best way to set the cooler up? Should I take out the rear fan and put the rad in its place with the fans inside and outside? Or should I fit the rad to the back of the case?


----------



## RonindeBeatrice

I'm back. I had to stop at bestbuy Wednesday and pick up an emergency H50 because my i7 was folding at ~90C on the stock heatsink. The tubing was just barely long enough to reach the front of my Lian Li G50 mini tower, another half inch and I wouldn't have been able to mount the cooler.

I threw it on and the temps plummeted to 55C.

Not shabby.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RonindeBeatrice* 
I'm back. I had to stop at bestbuy Wednesday and pick up an emergency H50 because my i7 was folding at ~90C on the stock heatsink. The tubing was just barely long enough to reach the front of my Lian Li G50 mini tower, another half inch and I wouldn't have been able to mount the cooler.

I threw it on and the temps plummeted to 55C.

Not shabby.

ahhh mr ronin has seen the power of the H50......


----------



## LiLChris

This recently came up when i got a 2nd card for folding.
Anyone using Intake method found a way to avoid getting so much heat from the GPUs?

Its still more efficient for me than exhaust. But my temps have gone up due to it.

I have it - -> fan/case/rad/fan ->


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Well with my setup, I have 2 shrouds and a push and pull. So my pull fan is almost touching the pump itself. This takes up about 1/4 or 1/3 of the gpu. I have the top 200m fan in exhaust and i have the top most front fan in exhaust. The heat from the rad will only increase gpu temps by like 3c?

Or you could try and rig up a shield type thing. So your case is split up into 2 different airflows. the top half: back to top and front. the bottom: front to back/exhaust. You could maybe use like a sheet of metal of some sort that will go horizontally across your case above your gpu. that could block hot air from going to the gpu. Just something I quickly came up with. Or if you could get hands on like acrylic, and cut out things to fit to your case inside and maybe add holes in the acrylic and mount a fan to pull hot air from the lower half to the upper to be exhausted?
Crazy thinking









My setup is fan->case->shroud->rad->shroud->fan


----------



## LiLChris

My simple solution is putting one of my many extra fans to push it to the left/right so it doesnt go directly up to the radiator.

I tried that shield method, only made my GPUs get way hot.

Ill be making a shroud eventually, once the CC is over and i find time/money.
The extra fans are not the right size for shrouds.


----------



## pcnuttie

Yea i didn't realize the gpu heat can flow to the rad but maybe i think it'll be ok cuz some of us have top fans, 200mm at HIGH speed pulling it all out and not only that, the side panel fan can be a cooler as intake. Or i could always make the side panel as exhaust but i'd be sucking all my intake front fan air out but at least i'd get some heat off. I plan to get a tiny fan to strap on my northbridge since it's not copper and should ward off heat away from the H50 and my gpu.


----------



## PCSarge

lma i have this P4 2.4ghz pc im on folding too, on the old 5.04 client XD dun care how much ppd, i just want to mnake it do something useful besides nothing


----------



## pcnuttie

I'm thinking of taking my Master Cooler fan off my side panel and switching the corsair fan since the Cooler Master fan has 1700rpm and more air. 90CFM i believe. Gonna try and see if that does make a difference, i am a nut on temps. I just like low temps at LOAD


----------



## Carfanatic

Edit: Fixed the problem one loose wire for some reason caused the extra "case" fan to not work funny I checked it many times but tried again and started to work so guess problem solved.

Now I have a nice quiet push/pull with two Akasa Apache fans and helped two things in my computer. I took the stock Corsair fan that came with the H50 and put in my PSU replacing it's old fan that was noisy now I can barely even hear a fan at all. I think the 220mm side fan is now the loudest fan in the case.

I have a problem I haven't run into before. I got my two Akasa Apache fans today to setup my pull/pull and exhaust it out the back instead of in. I also ordered a PWM signal motherboard cable so I could run both fans off the same CPU Fan header but only one fan works. The PWM cable plugs into the CPU fan header and then had three other four pin fan headers on it one is marked CPU the others are marked case fans the only one that runs is the CPU fan so I am at a loss on why and how to fix it so both fans on the H50 run the same speed.


----------



## Kevdog

Took a couple pics of my setup and $34 case with my cell phone.


----------



## gamester5

Well I have a HAF 932 with the Power Supply at the bottom. IT has 2 hose ports at the top where the power supply would go. I looked through a ton of pages but could not find a set up like I am thinking about.

Would the hoses be long enough?

Here is my idea. I want to mount the push fan and the radiator on the outside of the case pushing air in. Then a pull fan mounted on the inside of the case.

I have 4 120MM fans pushing air out the top and 4 120MM fans bringing in cool air on the side panel.

Is it even possible?


----------



## Kevdog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gamester5* 
Well I have a HAF 932 with the Power Supply at the bottom. IT has 2 hose ports at the top where the power supply would go. I looked through a ton of pages but could not find a set up like I am thinking about.

Would the hoses be long enough?

Here is my idea. I want to mount the push fan and the radiator on the outside of the case pushing air in. Then a pull fan mounted on the inside of the case.

I have 4 120MM fans pushing air out the top and 4 120MM fans bringing in cool air on the side panel.

Is it even possible?










You will either have to cut the hoses (they are pre attached) or cut that back plate
Edit; The hoses are exactly 12 Inches long


----------



## valtopps

did anyone do any comparing from there old cooler to the h50?


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:

Well I have a HAF 932 with the Power Supply at the bottom. IT has 2 hose ports at the top where the power supply would go. I looked through a ton of pages but could not find a set up like I am thinking about.

Would the hoses be long enough?

Here is my idea. I want to mount the push fan and the radiator on the outside of the case pushing air in. Then a pull fan mounted on the inside of the case.

I have 4 120MM fans pushing air out the top and 4 120MM fans bringing in cool air on the side panel.

Is it even possible?
you cant unless you do some case modding or mod the h50. what you could do is above where the rad would be mounted on the outside, use a dremel and cut the fan grill off, feed the rad through and then cut a long slot big enough for the tubes to fit between when you have the rad mounted. just make sure you dont cut out the pre-drilled holes in the case for the fan.
so in ur picture you could cut up to where the bracket for the psu to sit on, and in between the 2 fan screw holes.
look at the picture, the red you cut out. the the long red slot above the fan is where the tubes would be.


----------



## imh073p

Quote:


Originally Posted by *valtopps* 
did anyone do any comparing from there old cooler to the h50?

I got a 10c load drop vs my old V8 which is a decent cooler.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

i cant really compare cause from my old stock amd cooler, my cpu was not OC'd at all. i then oc'd my x3 and unlocked the 4th core when i got the h50, my temps stayed about the same, maybe a 1 or 2c drop even after Ocing to 3.5ghz. i sit at about 33C idle and 43c load (my h50 is modded too)


----------



## hitman1985

New fans came in









now im waiting for the 3 9800gtx+'s


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *valtopps* 
did anyone do any comparing from there old cooler to the h50?

H50 cooled better than my Megahalem by about 3-4Âºc


----------



## Erick Silver

I plan on mounting the Rad sideways in two of my dvd drive bays. I hope that it fits. I have taken out 2 of the drive bay covers to allow more airflow into my case. The fan on the rad will be set to pull as I have a 80mm fan installed on the modders mesh I replaced the drive bay covers with. Then of course a 120mm exaust fan on the back


----------



## chris14029

i hate the texas hot weather, cuz no matter your fans speeds if your room is hot your just pushing hot air , and the h50 will stay hot.

well im going to tape my fans together and put on ocz freeze and see what i get.


----------



## ThumperSD

Can somebody tell me what is the average temperature I should expect with the set up in my rig?

I'm averaging 37 with a high/low of 33/52 @ stock

ambient temp is at 24-25c


----------



## chris14029

WOW
OK
every one here needs to get ocz freeze like now
5c drop from stock tim and 6c drop from as5 ill get some proof here soon
35c idle(thats as far as any of my temps will go)so i assume lower
and 52c max out on e8500 @[email protected] 1.298volts


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ThumperSD*


Can somebody tell me what is the average temperature I should expect with the set up in my rig?

I'm averaging 37 with a high/low of 33/52 @ stock

ambient temp is at 24-25c


what is your stock volts it seems all right to me then again i dont know much about intel i cores.


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


what is your stock volts it seems all right to me then again i dont know much about intel i cores.


1.272


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LiLChris*


This recently came up when i got a 2nd card for folding. 
Anyone using Intake method found a way to avoid getting so much heat from the GPUs?

Its still more efficient for me than exhaust. But my temps have gone up due to it.

I have it - -> fan/case/rad/fan ->


Another way to aviod GPU exhaust heat is to move the rad to the front 5.25 bay of the PC. There is no heat to draw in at that position.


----------



## XtachiX

3 more days, and still counting, i'll do this until it becomes 0 and installed


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LiLChris*


This recently came up when i got a 2nd card for folding. 
Anyone using Intake method found a way to avoid getting so much heat from the GPUs?

Its still more efficient for me than exhaust. But my temps have gone up due to it.

I have it - -> fan/case/rad/fan ->












issue solved.


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ThumperSD*


1.272


and stock past right? well if i can let me say that i just bought some ocz freeze and i droped my temps about 5c from the stock stuff(all though its very good to) i dont know if that would help i do know that when they put the stock stuff on they put, WAY WAY WAY to much. so thrers is an idea. all though those temps are good to there is nothing wrong with those.


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Another way to aviod GPU exhaust heat is to move the rad to the front 5.25 bay of the PC. There is no heat to draw in at that position.

But how can that be tied to the intake? My Antec 1200 doesn't have something to hold onto it on intake. Btw it's always better to draw heat out anyhow. I think i may move my rad on the upper first fan of my exhaust fan since it's higher and further from the video cards. That could work too since heat will rise just out of the bottom fan of mine.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chris14029* 
WOW
OK
every one here needs to get ocz freeze like now
5c drop from stock tim and 6c drop from as5 ill get some proof here soon
35c idle(thats as far as any of my temps will go)so i assume lower
and 52c max out on e8500 @[email protected] 1.298volts

and noone believed me when i said it was better than AS5 >.>
its also much cheaper than AS5 >.>

anyways on another note, my old E7400 rig with my 9600 GSO is up and folding, i took a pic so you can laugh at how i set it up









the parts there are as follows:
XFX 750i SLI mobo
E7400 Core 2 Duo @ 3.4ghz
XFX Geforce 9600 GSO w/ GTS 250 Heatsink
4GB PC6400 Dual CHannel OCZ SLI RAM
80GB Seagate Barracuda 7200.7 (IDE)
BENQ 52x24x52 CD/RW burner (IDE)
windows XP Pro 32 bit
Thermaltake 775D Silent CPU Cooler
OCZ Stealth x Stream 450W PSU
and an old crap KDS USA 19" lcd screen


----------



## ohzer0

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
But how can that be tied to the intake? My Antec 1200 doesn't have something to hold onto it on intake. Btw it's always better to draw heat out anyhow. I think i may move my rad on the upper first fan of my exhaust fan since it's higher and further from the video cards. That could work too since heat will rise just out of the bottom fan of mine.

i did a ghetto rig to get this done using wireties

ill get pics once i get off work


----------



## chris14029

lol i want to get my dell pentium1.7ghz with 512mb of ram folding but that would mean taking down my nas box, back up all my **** again, installing xp...again, and i really dont think that it would fold at all very well.


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


and noone believed me when i said it was better than AS5 >.>
its also much cheaper than AS5 >.>

anyways on another note, my old E7400 rig with my 9600 GSO is up and folding, i took a pic so you can laugh at how i set it up









the parts there are as follows:
XFX 750i SLI mobo
E7400 Core 2 Duo @ 3.4ghz
XFX Geforce 9600 GSO w/ GTS 250 Heatsink
4GB PC6400 Dual CHannel OCZ SLI RAM
80GB Seagate Barracuda 7200.7 (IDE)
BENQ 52x24x52 CD/RW burner (IDE)
windows XP Pro 32 bit
Thermaltake 775D Silent CPU Cooler
OCZ Stealth x Stream 450W PSU
and an old crap KDS USA 19" lcd screen


lol yeah its sweet

btw 
that looks a lot like my nas box


----------



## ThirdLap

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chris14029* 
WOW
OK
every one here needs to get ocz freeze like now
5c drop from stock tim and 6c drop from as5

In head-to-head comparisons, the stock TIM (Shin Etsu) generally outperforms OCZ Freeze. Besides, max temperature differences between high-end TIMs are usually just a degree or two at load, with most TIMs finishing only a few tenths of a degree apart.

A 5C improvement is likely indicative of some other issue, perhaps seating or changes in ambient temps.


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ThirdLap*


In head-to-head comparisons, the stock TIM (Shin Etsu) generally outperforms OCZ Freeze. Besides, max temperature differences between high-end TIMs are usually just a degree or two at load, with most TIMs finishing only a few tenths of a degree apart.

A 5C improvement is likely indicative of some other issue, perhaps seating or changes in ambient temps.


yeah it might be the cuz the shin etsu was GLOBED on there.. there was way to much.


----------



## ThirdLap

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


yeah it might be the cuz the shin etsu was GLOBED on there.. there was way to much.


You're right, they do seem to put a lot on there. I guess that would help explain the drop in temps.

BTW, what does 'fan moder' in your sig mean?


----------



## XtachiX

2 days (and still counting)


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chris14029* 
lol yeah its sweet

btw
that looks a lot like my nas box

yeah i sat the mobo ontop of the box it came in, so as not to short anything, its only making about 7.5k ppd between the smp and 9600 atm, but thats because thier both set on large units, and thier both at about 27% right now, so by the time i go to bed (if i even bother) they should have finished the units, its only been running since about 3pm


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
yeah i sat the mobo ontop of the box it came in, so as not to short anything, its only making about 7.5k ppd between the smp and 9600 atm, but thats because thier both set on large units, and thier both at about 27% right now, so by the time i go to bed (if i even bother) they should have finished the units, its only been running since about 3pm

on another note, why dont you post a pic of your nas box? lol since we're al lbored and folding as usual


----------



## chris14029

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
on another note, why dont you post a pic of your nas box? lol since we're al lbored and folding as usual

k hold on


----------



## chris14029

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chris14029* 
k hold on

it very crude i know
im still debating weather or not its worth folding on it
what do you think?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


it very crude i know 
im still debating weather or not its worth folding on it 
what do you think?


if shes a P4 at at least 2.8ghz go for it, itll give at least 3500ppd
looks like my old HP D530


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


if shes a P4 at at least 2.8ghz go for it, itll give at least 3500ppd
looks like my old HP D530


dell optilex gx270 pentium 4 @2.40ghz


----------



## PCSarge

ahh the old opti 270s... i have one of those folding at the office, itll be a little slower, but go for it

not really the cpu that bottlenecks, its how much RAM its got, if its only 512MB, run small units, itll complete them faster


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


ahh the old opti 270s... i have one of those folding at the office, itll be a little slower, but go for it

not really the cpu that bottlenecks, its how much RAM its got, if its only 512MB, run small units, itll complete them faster


yeah i went ahead and did it plus i know a few tricks about xp to make use WAYless of the system stuff


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


yeah i went ahead and did it plus i know a few tricks about xp to make use WAYless of the system stuff


it seeems to be getting stuck on some parts but then keeps going on the xp setup
its been a hour and its only on 28%


----------



## halson




----------



## Bodycount

Well got up today and noticed my H50 has been leaking at the base. there is water in the plastic case/cover








no damage so far that i have noticed

well thats that!


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


it seeems to be getting stuck on some parts but then keeps going on the xp setup
its been a hour and its only on 28%


yeah, xp doesnt like it when you kill backround stuff to bare minimum, i have an opti 270, but its on windows 2000, so it folds alot faster, i put a p4 rig on win 98 and ran an older client and it flies through units, i only fold on my sig rig when i'm not using it (for the 7 to 10 hours i sleep, and during the week all day every day at work)

the core 2 duo rig i got going earlier is on xp pro sp2, it doesnt freeze up its been running 4 hours and the cpu is at 78% and the gpu client has been through 3 1/2 units its at 68%


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*
































Well got up today and noticed my H50 has been leaking at the base. there is water in the plastic case/cover








no damage so far that i have noticed

well thats that!


Strange and unusual 









Pics or it didnt happen!

And good luck, hope everything is ok.


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


yeah, xp doesnt like it when you kill backround stuff to bare minimum, i have an opti 270, but its on windows 2000, so it folds alot faster, i put a p4 rig on win 98 and ran an older client and it flies through units, i only fold on my sig rig when i'm not using it (for the 7 to 10 hours i sleep, and during the week all day every day at work)

the core 2 duo rig i got going earlier is on xp pro sp2, it doesnt freeze up its been running 4 hours and the cpu is at 78% and the gpu client has been through 3 1/2 units its at 68%


nonononon im still installing xp


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*
































Well got up today and noticed my H50 has been leaking at the base. there is water in the plastic case/cover








no damage so far that i have noticed

well thats that!


very soory to here that but like killhouse said we need pics and where you doing any thing ruff on it or did you mod it


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


nonononon im still installing xp


those old optis were designed for windows 2000, it may not like to run xp, blame dell for that lmao


----------



## chris14029

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
those old optis were designed for windows 2000, it may not like to run xp, blame dell for that lmao

nope (all though i hate dell) turns out freenas makes the the cpu run in a slower mode(there is two options in the bios) just turned it back on to fast








i feel so stupid now 1 1/2 hours shot it came with xp to begin with


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chris14029* 
nope (all though i hate dell) turns out freenas makes the the cpu run in a slower mode(there is two options in the bios) just turned it back on to fast








i feel so stupid now 1 1/2 hours shot it came with xp to begin with

i can tell you the personi got it from was ripped off, its still on its OEM install of win 2000 from dell, yet theres a designed for xp sticker on it, and a windows 2000 prod key on the side xD


----------



## thx1138

Sorry if this has been discussed already. I noticed my pump runs at 1337 (not trying to be clever thats what hwmonitor says atm) I was wondering what if I hooked it up to my fan controller and slowed it down just a little say 1k rpm. If I slowed the flow would it cool more efficiently by dissipating more heat the longer the fluid stays in the radiator or would it warm up because the water has longer contact on the block? Or would it still reach an equilibrium at about the same temps? I would try it but its hard to get to the mobo header to unplug it with the kazes in the way so I thought I would ask first before going through the hassle.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thx1138* 
Sorry if this has been discussed already. I noticed my pump runs at 1337 (not trying to be clever thats what hwmonitor says atm) I was wondering what if I hooked it up to my fan controller and slowed it down just a little say 1k rpm. If I slowed the flow would it cool more efficiently by dissipating more heat the longer the fluid stays in the radiator or would it warm up because the water has longer contact on the block? Or would it still reach an equilibrium at about the same temps? I would try it but its hard to get to the mobo header to unplug it with the kazes in the way so I thought I would ask first before going through the hassle.

it would get too hot... 300 rpm is like turtle speed.....my pump runs between 1470 and 1489 rpm, yours mus be not getting enough power to begin with


----------



## thx1138

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


it would get too hot... 300 rpm is like turtle speed.....my pump runs between 1470 and 1489 rpm, yours mus be not getting enough power to begin with


Oh I meant if I slowed it down to 1k rpm so thats what it runs at I remember some of the wc guys saying you could try adjusting pump speed lower for better temps with real wc.

Um, my h50 has always ran at 1336-1337rpm and it occasionally drops to 0rpm for a sec or two. It does this no matter which header I plug it into and it ran the same speed when I had it plugged into my fan controller a while back... but I never thought of trying to adjust it I just ran it on max.

Cool n quiet is off, and alll the auto adjustments are off in bios. Hmmmm, where does it state the normal operating rpm?

Edit: Bios and hwmonitor and speedfan all report the same rpm so its not a software defect.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thx1138*


Oh I meant if I slowed it down to 1k rpm so thats what it runs at I remember some of the wc guys saying you could try adjusting pump speed lower for better temps with real wc.

Um, my h50 has always ran at 1336-1337rpm and it occasionally drops to 0rpm for a sec or two. It does this no matter which header I plug it into and it ran the same speed when I had it plugged into my fan controller a while back... but I never thought of trying to adjust it I just ran it on max.

Cool n quiet is off, and alll the auto adjustments are off in bios. Hmmmm, where does it state the normal operating rpm?

Edit: Bios and hwmonitor and speedfan all report the same rpm so its not a software defect.


running at 1000 rpm would be too slow regular is 1400-1450rpm
which means its slow as it is, and if it randomly shuts off sometimes to 0 rpm, it means there may be something wrong with a unit


----------



## thx1138

So in your hwmonitor it never shows 0rpm for min?


----------



## fssbzz

as5 have 200 burn in hour.


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thx1138*


So in your hwmonitor it never shows 0rpm for min?


dude i hope it dose not show 0rmp at all it needs to be about 1400 you may want to look into that


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Strange and unusual









Pics or it didnt happen!

And good luck, hope everything is ok.



Oh but it did happen


----------



## Bodycount

Here my fav ones


----------



## LiLChris

Dam that sucks, now your #2 out of countless H50s, contact them they will replace anything that got messed up.

Sorry to hear what happened.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *halson* 









Simply beautiful! Got any other pics man?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Good luck on getting your H50 and/or any damaged hardware bro


----------



## thx1138

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


dude i hope it dose not show 0rmp at all it needs to be about 1400 you may want to look into that


Maybe the way I have it mounted is stressing the pump? I've seen countless other people in this thread that have it mounted like I do though.


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thx1138*


Maybe the way I have it mounted is stressing the pump? I've seen countless other people in this thread that have it mounted like I do though.


dont think so man do you have the pump pluged in to sys fan or pwr fan socket it should be a three prong it could be just not nuff power if you have other three prong plug try them


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Here my fav ones



















very sory to here that man i know your pissed







call them they eil replace it (as long as you did not mod it in any way)


----------



## fssbzz

and send them those picture


----------



## t77snapshot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *t77snapshot* 
Hi, I just my 2nd H50 for my secondary rig (100% cruncher/folder), I tried to be a little more creative by mounting it to the top rather then the back of the case.

----------------------

So I go to my local hardware store and they don't have any 6/32" screws longer the 2 inchs, so I got long super long threaded stick and cut the size I needed for this project.


















Yes I know, I probably should have cut the grill out for better airflow blah blah blah, but I might want to sell this case in the future and I didn't want to decrease those chances by gutting it.



























I'm glad the fan wires were able to squeeze behind the panel without any modding.



































And there you have it! now it looks like a chimney poking out the top of my computer.



















Quote:


Originally Posted by *E46Johnny* 
Put a cap nut on top off the tread rods and you vil have a much nicer look.









- http://122.155.7.128/~acamthai/image...ew/Cap_Nut.jpg

I usually care more about performance over looks, but I do think I have some black plastic caps that will fit nicely, thanks


----------



## fssbzz

some noob question what is the fan grill for?


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fssbzz* 
some noob question what is the fan grill for?

no harm to the fan & blades....in case a child / cat is around... cables or something...


----------



## ThirdLap

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fssbzz* 
some noob question what is the fan grill for?

Fan blades can take out fingers.


----------



## fssbzz

oh ok. LOL i just hurt my finger so bad by the ultra Kaze that just arrive.
try to test it out. is only 2000 rpm.but it HURT so bad







the blade is kinda sharp too.
thanks for the info.


----------



## t77snapshot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fssbzz* 
some noob question what is the fan grill for?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 
no harm to the fan & blades....in case a child / cat is around... cables or something...

Yeah I have a cat that sometimes likes to jump on top of my case, so the grill was very necessary.







However I dont have a fan grill on the side and rear fans of my other rig because I think if restricts airflow. I know that probably sounds







but my ocd doesn't think so lol!


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thx1138* 
So in your hwmonitor it never shows 0rpm for min?

no it has never shown 0 rpms at all, its always floating between 1470-1489


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thx1138*


Oh I meant if I slowed it down to 1k rpm so thats what it runs at I remember some of the wc guys saying you could try adjusting pump speed lower for better temps with real wc.

Um, my h50 has always ran at 1336-1337rpm and it occasionally drops to 0rpm for a sec or two. It does this no matter which header I plug it into and it ran the same speed when I had it plugged into my fan controller a while back... but I never thought of trying to adjust it I just ran it on max.

Cool n quiet is off, and alll the auto adjustments are off in bios. Hmmmm, where does it state the normal operating rpm?

Edit: Bios and hwmonitor and speedfan all report the same rpm so its not a software defect.


Not to discredit PCSarge, but undervolting your pump to 1k RPM is absolutely fine. Though I doubt you will see any difference in temperature and it's probably not worth it!

Your pump occasionally switching to 0RPM could be a defect though - and it sounds like a hardware defect. How often does it do this? Even if the power is cut off to the pump, it continues spinning for a few seconds - you would see the RPM drop in a few stages, not just flicker to 0 for a few moments.

If you could describe how often and how quickly the RPM drops we can probably tell you that its nothing to worry about







Do you notice anything else when it drops to zero - temperature increase, bubbling noises when it kicks back in?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Oh but it did happen










Blimey!

You've got some pics now, email them right away and show them the damage. They are a lovely bunch of people over at Corsair and they will do everything they can for you - and they wont try and cheat you!

Stay positive, you seem to be! Good luck.

~Killhouse


----------



## Killhouse

Fail. Double post.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thx1138* 
Maybe the way I have it mounted is stressing the pump? I've seen countless other people in this thread that have it mounted like I do though.

I doubt very much your pump is not working properly. It's not unusual for a particular implementation of the speed sensor to not read the proper speed intermittently. I've also ran into a low speed limit, with fans. When you slow them down too much, the speed stops being detected.


----------



## thx1138

So I guess I should contact corsair and rma then? Mounting the cooler and all the fans is such a hassle not to mention the hassle with rma in general. I guess itll give me time to test out my 6000rpm delta on my xiggy 1284.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thx1138*


So I guess I should contact corsair and rma then? Mounting the cooler and all the fans is such a hassle not to mention the hassle with rma in general. I guess itll give me time to test out my 6000rpm delta on my xiggy 1284.


It's more likely the way your mobo is detecting it.


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thx1138*


So I guess I should contact corsair and rma then? Mounting the cooler and all the fans is such a hassle not to mention the hassle with rma in general. I guess itll give me time to test out my 6000rpm delta on my xiggy 1284.


yeah dont rma yet like killhouse said(he knows a lot about these) is it dropping stright to 0 or dose it linger down tword it then go back up to 1400rpm?


----------



## thx1138

Basically it sits at 1337 rpm itll fluctuate up to 1350 but the avg is 1337 then for a sec it will drop to 0rpm and then go back to 1337 max in hwmonitor is like 1357 min is 0 and I've confirmed this in bios.You guys might have missed my other posts but I said I did try different mobo headers and I did have it plugged into my fan controller a while back. Right now its in my cpu header and cool n quiet is off as well as auto fan control so it runs at max. The unit has always run at that speed for me so I thought it to be normal.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thx1138* 
Basically it sits at 1337 rpm itll fluctuate up to 1350 but the avg is 1337 then for a sec it will drop to 0rpm and then go back to 1337 max in hwmonitor is like 1357 min is 0 and I've confirmed this in bios.You guys might have missed my other posts but I said I did try different mobo headers and I did have it plugged into my fan controller a while back. Right now its in my cpu header and cool n quiet is off as well as auto fan control so it runs at max. The unit has always run at that speed for me so I thought it to be normal.

It is suppose to be around 1400 I believe


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thx1138*


Basically it sits at 1337 rpm itll fluctuate up to 1350 but the avg is 1337 then for a sec it will drop to 0rpm and then go back to 1337 max in hwmonitor is like 1357 min is 0 and I've confirmed this in bios.You guys might have missed my other posts but I said I did try different mobo headers and I did have it plugged into my fan controller a while back. Right now its in my cpu header and cool n quiet is off as well as auto fan control so it runs at max. The unit has always run at that speed for me so I thought it to be normal.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


It is suppose to be around 1400 I believe


Pumps and fans pretty much will vary + or - 10%. Your pump speed is quite normal.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Pumps and fans pretty much will vary + or - 10%. Your pump speed is quite normal.


well then mine must be very + and i like it? 1470-1489 rpms xD


----------



## NomNomNom

Does anyone know the mtbf of the corsair pump? I dont want it failing on me


----------



## XtachiX

zomg just 1 more day!!!


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


well then mine must be very + and i like it? 1470-1489 rpms xD


----------



## DHEnthusiast

Im in, Here is a pic of my rig! lol Do I hear cable managment?


----------



## Capwn

This doesnt look good
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=86991
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post9305765


----------



## t77snapshot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Capwn*


This doesnt look good
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=86991
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post9305765


Yeah that totally sucks and I dont even want to think about it because I am running two of these in 2 rigs.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dhenthusiast*


im in, here is a pic of my rig! Lol do i hear cable managment?











cable management!


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
cable management!

Double cable management!

BTW: It is very unlikely that the H50 will leak. I have had mine for a very long time now and I still haven't seen it leak even after buying new watercooling stuff.


----------



## Jyve

It is also comforting to know that they back their product by replacing parts.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Never good seeing that when youve modded yours














No more warranty for me.


----------



## GoTMaXPoWeR

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Double cable management!

BTW: It is very unlikely that the H50 will leak. I have had mine for a very long time now and I still haven't seen it leak even after buying new watercooling stuff.

This.

Corsair have also said they will replace all parts involved with the leak.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoTMaXPoWeR*


This.

Corsair have also said they will replace all parts involved with the leak.


where did they say this?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*


Does anyone know the mtbf of the corsair pump? I dont want it failing on me










Speculations say 5.5 years for 24/7 use.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *thx1138*


Basically it sits at 1337 rpm itll fluctuate up to 1350 but the avg is 1337 then for a sec it will drop to 0rpm and then go back to 1337 max in hwmonitor is like 1357 min is 0 and I've confirmed this in bios.You guys might have missed my other posts but I said I did try different mobo headers and I did have it plugged into my fan controller a while back. Right now its in my cpu header and cool n quiet is off as well as auto fan control so it runs at max. The unit has always run at that speed for me so I thought it to be normal.


Sounds like the RPM sensor is a bit dodgy but your pump is probably working fine. If you wish to try undervolting it then go ahead - but youre not likely to see a a temp improvement. Make sure you give it enough volts to keep it moving; I wouldnt go below 65% (~8V). And watch your RPM reading closely as you drop it.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XtachiX*


zomg just 1 more day!!!


I sense you are just a tad excited?


----------



## PCSarge

my god, sethy and killhouse are alive









got my old E7400 and 9600 GSO both folding constantly during the day, its set up caseless on my bed, so i shut it down during the night

my sig rig since i upgraded it, cant ask for more, ivegiven up on nvidia graphics cards, the 9 series of GeForce cards is a dying breed, they have more quality to them the the2 newer ones i bought

the 9800gtx+ that fried itself and my old 775 mobo, and the GTS 250, that didnt work after i cleaned the dust out of it

this 5770 may not fold as fast, but when that new client comes, and it has full support for these, boy will i be putting numbers out

as far as the CC went, i was yelled at by my current bf, because he couldnt sleep from all the noise, i had my sig rig, the E7400 and 3 P4 rigs all folding 24 hours a day till it ended, its seems my 130k PPD wasnt enough to save us from being behind...though i tried and drove him insane during the process


----------



## Sethy666

Hey PCSarge,

Yep, we are alive and well









Good show for the CC, Im sorry your bf was not understanding. My wife was the same but to her credit, she conceded the 24 hr folding for the comp.


----------



## fssbzz

i was so regret i bought the Ultra Kaze 2000s
i should have go for Ultra Kaze 3000s.
because Ultra Kaze 2000 is SO SILENT.
3000s the dba probably wont effect me.


----------



## djsi38t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


i was so regret i bought the Ultra Kaze 2000s
i should have go for Ultra Kaze 3000s.
because Ultra Kaze 2000 is SO SILENT.
3000s the dba probably wont effect me.


Dude at full speed the 3,000's are like a jet airplane.Very loud! And you probably wouldn't have seen a performance boost.Mine didn't from 2,000-3,000.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Hey PCSarge,

Yep, we are alive and well









Good show for the CC, Im sorry your bf was not understanding. My wife was the same but to her credit, she conceded the 24 hr folding for the comp.


yeah, i've gone back to folding for me now, my little E7400 is crunching in the other room with my 9600 gso, and my radeon 5770 is crunching on my sig rig

EDIT: and for some reason, my cpu smp doesnt like to run while my 5770 is crunching, stil ltrying to solve that issue


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *djsi38t*


Dude at full speed the 3,000's are like a jet airplane.Very loud! And you probably wouldn't have seen a performance boost.Mine didn't from 2,000-3,000.


the 2000s is like nothing right? i can heard anything until i get 3inch from the fan on maximum speed


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


yeah, i've gone back to folding for me now, my little E7400 is crunching in the other room with my 9600 gso, and my radeon 5770 is crunching on my sig rig

EDIT: and for some reason, my cpu smp doesnt like to run while my 5770 is crunching, stil ltrying to solve that issue


 Does it bluescreen or what?


----------



## PCSarge

no for some reason it just doesnt fold, it doesnt bluescreen, it just sits at 0% and doesnt move throught the whole day


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
no for some reason it just doesnt fold, it doesnt bluescreen, it just sits at 0% and doesnt move throught the whole day

how strange... try setting the priorities and set it to 3 cores for cpu smp and 1 for the gpu folding


----------



## PCSarge

im guessing i hafta lock the first 3 by putting 3 in the affinity lock in smp? and them turning on lock specific to cpu in the gpu client? or otherwise i have no clue


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
im guessing i hafta lock the first 3 by putting 3 in the affinity lock in smp? and them turning on lock specific to cpu in the gpu client? or otherwise i have no clue

i think you can get away with it just in task manager

so affinity for smp=core0, 1 , 2
and affinity for gpu=core 3
and up the priority a little to normal or below normal


----------



## djsi38t

So another leak has been reported.That's two I know of now.


----------



## pcnuttie

wow well at least just 2 users. Just very rare. So i wouldn't worry about it. At least Corsair will take care of everything if it ever happened like one fella had all his hardware ruined, they paid for a whole new hardware for him to replace not just the H50 which is considerably good that they care.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
i think you can get away with it just in task manager

so affinity for smp=core0, 1 , 2
and affinity for gpu=core 3
and up the priority a little to normal or below normal

well i tried it, lets see what happens

EDIT: its working, thanks


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


well i tried it, lets see what happens

EDIT: its working, thanks


 No prob : D


----------



## thx1138

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


i was so regret i bought the Ultra Kaze 2000s
i should have go for Ultra Kaze 3000s.
because Ultra Kaze 2000 is SO SILENT.
3000s the dba probably wont effect me.


Is it too late to exchange it?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *djsi38t*


Dude at full speed the 3,000's are like a jet airplane.Very loud! And you probably wouldn't have seen a performance boost.Mine didn't from 2,000-3,000.


I've been benching my computer over night and I keep the kaze 3000's (2 of them) on full blast all night and I sleep just fine. And I'm not a heavy sleeper by any means. Its a low hum and it sure as hell doesnt sound like a jet I'll tell you that much. Yes they are louder than your typical pc fan but all I hear is the low frequency hum of 133cfm air moving. They arnt high pitched is my point so I can easily sleep 8 ft away from my pc while I have them full blast. I guess everyone has their own opinion on the matter. I gave up trying to have a completely silent computer because my temps were suffering because of it. Think of the sound of a small box fan at the lowest setting, its about that.

Fssbzz, dude I didn't want to say anything before because I know you already got them but to me it makes more sense to get the 3000 and use a fan controller to put it down to 2000 when you don't want the noise. I guess thats assuming you have a fan controller. Or you could also use speedfan to lower them.

Going back to my low rpm problem you guys have made me feel a bit better about it. This is a quick shot of my hwmonitor and this is at full load testing 3.9 stable at 1.37v. Like I said it will occasionally drop to 0 and I'm more worried about that than I am about the low rpm. So no one else ever gets the occasional drop to 0?


----------



## Tennobanzai

My little modding that i did yesterday. It shows i get 2-3C lower temps during idle. I'll check later for full load


----------



## Killhouse

I dont ever have that drop to zero but ive seen it on some fans, and the fan was working properly. 1360 is a very normal speed for the pump, dont worry about that either









As a safety precaution: you should be able to set an auto-shutdown in the BIOS that will shut the computer down at a certain core temperature. It's a great safety feature which I use, just in case something breaks when im not around to se it.

Nice mod tenno


----------



## PCSarge

*continues folding my way to the top 1000 spots so i can get it attached to me in the forums* xD


----------



## rbarrett96

I have a brand new PC I just put together (see Sig) and while running a full scan of my PC with windows security essentials, I noticed in core temp that all my cores were running 40 and above. And that was before overclocking. I have my h50 as an intake with the included fan. Does it take a while to break it in before you get good temps? I know the TIM they include doesn't have any cure time...

P.S. I'll have pics up soon so you can see how good the airflow is. I did a fairly good job of cable management


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rbarrett96* 
I have a brand new PC I just put together (see Sig) and while running a full scan of my PC with windows security essentials, I noticed in core temp that all my cores were running 40 and above. And that was before overclocking. I have my h50 as an intake with the included fan. Does it take a while to break it in before you get good temps? I know the TIM they include doesn't have any cure time...

P.S. I'll have pics up soon so you can see how good the airflow is. I did a fairly good job of cable management









Hi,

While your reading this reply, can you complete this page:

Quote:

http://www.overclock.net/specs.php?do=addsystem
Now, the supplied TIM doesn't have a cure time but because it is very viscous, it does need a few heat cycles to get into all the nooks and crannies of your CPU die and heat plate. Give it a couple of days and see if the temp go down.

The standard fan is just that, standard. You may wish to invest in something with a little more grunt... A 1850 Gentle Typhoon of Ultra Kase 2000 perhaps.

Configuring your radiator in a push / pull system also decreases the temps, as does adding shrouds.

Have a look around this thread for ideas and different configs. You should be able to get you system down to mid to low 30s with these suggestions.

Cable management is always a good thing... well done









good luck and if you have any specific questions... ask away









________________

To other news...

Everyone's getting their panties in a twist over this lastest H50 leak. OMG, you would think it was "the end of days" or something...

Quote:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post9312211


----------



## PCSarge

yeah really sethy... its like the end of days has come or something
its a leak, get over it, the guy wil lget replacement parts
2 leaks in a few billion units that are in operation, and everyone freaks out


----------



## chris14029

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
yeah really sethy... its like the end of days has come or something
its a leak, get over it, the guy will get replacement parts
2 leaks in a few billion units that are in operation, and everyone freaks out

i would be pissed though but i know it wont happen


----------



## XtachiX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
________________

To other news...

Everyone's getting their panties in a twist over this lastest H50 leak. OMG, you would think it was "the end of days" or something...

That


----------



## r5gtt

Hey all, Had my H50 for about 4 or 5 months now and thought I should put up a couple of pictures. I'm very happy with it and have tried different fan configurations and had it in a antec p180 before this. Currently using 2 enermax twister fans with a shroud but will probably replace the lower one with a black fan to match the case better. Also the uv anti kink stuff is either coming off or changing colour at some point









Currently running my i7 920 at 3.6ghz with max temps of around 68 degrees across the cores but need to look at lowering my voltage a little since I just ramped it up more for stability more than anything.


----------



## pcnuttie

UV coils.. done that.. on mine







Rest of my wires are custom sleeved too.


----------



## pcnuttie

BTW 68 degrees? *cough* proof?


----------



## GoTMaXPoWeR

Add me to the club, I fit mine this morning. I'll add some pictures when I can find the camera.









I'm running an E8400 at 1.344v, 4GHz and hitting 43/45c idle, 55/57c on stress tests.


----------



## ToxicAdam

I drop my overclock to 3.7GHz to enable Cool n Quiet. At *idle* i'm in the teens!!


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
I drop my overclock to 3.7GHz to enable Cool n Quiet. At idle i'm in the teens!!

You either live in an ice box or have inaccurate sensors.


----------



## pcnuttie

that's NOT possible having that kind of load temps if you are at 3.7, you're a horrible liar or either a troll. Post honest temps please or we bring in the troll patrol









Oh wait a min he does have a older processor but this is till a little bull to me. IMO.


----------



## ToxicAdam

I'm at idle!! no load temps. Those max are me opening up apps and such lol


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
I'm at idle!! no load temps. Those max are me opening up apps and such lol


prime95 / linx is load temps,

idle temps are worthless.


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
that's NOT possible having that kind of load temps if you are at 3.7, you're a horrible liar or either a troll. Post honest temps please or we bring in the troll patrol









Oh wait a min he does have a older processor but this is till a little bull to me. IMO.

Its completely possible, his ambient temperature would just have to be extremely cold.


----------



## Willhemmens

C&Q drops the multi to 4 and drops the voltages too. Completely possible.

EDIT: 1337 posts!


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 
prime95 / linx is load temps,

idle temps are worthless.

I never said they were ... my load temps are on page 5









Pics are down being that they are so old..


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
I drop my overclock to 3.7GHz to enable Cool n Quiet. At *idle* i'm in the teens!!










Hey you get 0rpm too. I'm going to stop worrying about mine.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thx1138*


Hey you get 0rpm too. I'm going to stop worrying about mine.


PWM fan.. with temps that low there were no need to spin lol


----------



## r5gtt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
BTW 68 degrees? *cough* proof?

sorry I was out slightly since my last test, 69.7degrees average across the 4 cores with the i7 920 @3.6Ghz 1.26 volts

paste used : Arctic cooling MX-3

using the setup as pictured below with an enermax twister blowing out the top. then the rad then a shroud and finally the original corsair fan blowing up through the rad.

Prime run for one hour, within 20 mins max temps were settled and didn't increase.


----------



## hitman1985

thats mighty warm for that vcore..... have u switched the tim to something other then stock, or is your area just this hot (non ac room or something)


----------



## r5gtt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 
thats mighty warm for that vcore..... have u switched the tim to something other then stock, or is your area just this hot (non ac room or something)

I have MX3 on there, I didn't think it seemed too hot as at stock speeds on a thermalright 120 I could see high 50's

My room isn't hot, It feels kind of average really.









What temps should I really be looking to get ?

Cheers


----------



## LiLChris

Those temps seem fine, thats what i get normally unless i blast my A/C.


----------



## hitman1985

ill clock my cpu to 3.6 ghz once i put my gpu's in shortly (once the damn mail gets here)...

i know that bone stock @ 2.8ghz with 1.235v vcore im not going over 54 C on load, if i open my window, i dont hit 50 C


----------



## r5gtt

Nice, I wonder if the extra shroud on yours is helping. The other thing is although the enermax fans are nice and quiet it doesn't push the air like the stock corsair fan. I may try another fan I've got kicking about with similar CFM to the corsair.









What vcore are you running for 4.0 ?


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *r5gtt* 
Nice, I wonder if the extra shroud on yours is helping. The other thing is although the enermax fans are nice and quiet it doesn't push the air like the stock corsair fan. I may try another fan I've got kicking about with similar CFM to the corsair.









What vcore are you running for 4.0 ?

i was running bios setup 1.2825v + 200mv on the vtt....

ill get u some screenies up later.

sadly i got a lot of stuff to do today









ill try my best to have them up and posted tonight.


----------



## r5gtt

Thanks I appreciate it, I'm in the UK so off to bed soon but I'll have a look tomorrow morning.


----------



## Killhouse

I would just like to thank all the H50 owners that answered the call of the Chimp Challenge this year; it was a fantastic run, proving that OCN are totally awesome (but we all knew it already, right?).

Keep folding for the cause!


----------



## fssbzz

noob question.
want to set up my ultra kaze today.
make myself 2 shroud.
the problem is.
how do i mount the shroud with the radiator + fan.?
need a long long longer screw?? any other idea?


----------



## GoTMaXPoWeR

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


noob question.
want to set up my ultra kaze today.
make myself 2 shroud.
the problem is.
how do i mount the shroud with the radiator + fan.?
need a long long longer screw?? any other idea?


Exactly the same question.

Do you need more screws for a push/pull setup?


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoTMaXPoWeR*


Exactly the same question.

Do you need more screws for a push/pull setup?


my screw is not long enough to reach the radiator.
any idea how i can mount it?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


noob question.
want to set up my ultra kaze today.
make myself 2 shroud.
the problem is.
how do i mount the shroud with the radiator + fan.?
need a long long longer screw?? any other idea?


Instead of running the screw through all 4 holes to the rad (two in 25mm shroud and two in 38mm fan) I ran it through just three holes (2 in 25mm fan and 38mm holes closest to fan). It can be done on the Ultra Kaze, just needs a little working in of the screw through the side of the 38mm.


----------



## GoTMaXPoWeR

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


my screw is not long enough to reach the radiator.
any idea how i can mount it?


I took the 4 screws out of the exhaust fan in my case and screwed in the rad screws, then placed the rad behind it and screwed them as far as they would go in, about a quarter to a half of an inch.

I'll update this post with a sketch of my current problem; long story short, how do I use the 4 screws included to attach two fans in a push/pull to the rad, and then attach it to my case. Has anyone done the same thing with their H50?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


that's NOT possible having that kind of load temps if you are at 3.7, you're a horrible liar or either a troll. Post honest temps please or we bring in the troll patrol









Oh wait a min he does have a older processor but this is till a little bull to me. IMO.


Settle down tiger.

Please dont call people liars, there are nicer ways to ask for proof.

Best to check your facts before engaging your keyboard


----------



## looser101

Lots of people use only two screws on each fan when they go push pull. Two on one fan, across from each other, and two on the other.


----------



## GoTMaXPoWeR

_The red blocks are screws, and everything else is labelled._

I've used the 4 screws and I don't have any which fit the rad.

How else can I fit another fan to it?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Lots of people use only two screws on each fan when they go push pull. Two on one fan, across from each other, and two on the other.


Yep, that's how I did mine.


----------



## GoTMaXPoWeR

So should I take out the bottom two on the sketch and then screw them through the other side? Will it be stable like that?


----------



## fssbzz

no guys what i mean is FAN>SHROUD>RADIATOR>SHROUD>FAN.
i make SHROUD to see what performance i can get.
but is too long.so i wonder what kind of screw should i get
i mean how i can i attached it to the radiator?
38mm+25mm = 63mm. i need at least a 65mm screw or longer.


----------



## Sozin

Alright fells, I'm stumped.

I just picked up a 965BE and am idling at about 55C with an H50, and the CPU is stock completely. I haven't even done anything intensive for fear of how high it would go. I had to apply my own AS5 to the H50 and I did it several times to make sure it was right.

It starts about 35C idle when I first apply it, but it quickly rises up to 50C. Compared to my old X4 620 which idled at 28C and loaded at about 38C, I'm concerned. Is it the chip itself that just runs this hot or is the H50 just not enough.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GoTMaXPoWeR* 
So should I take out the bottom two on the sketch and then screw them through the other side? Will it be stable like that?

Leave two mounted diagonally. Use the two you took out on the other side.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GoTMaXPoWeR* 
So should I take out the bottom two on the sketch and then screw them through the other side? Will it be stable like that?

Yep,

However take off one from the bottom and one from top, making sure that the 2 screws on each fan are on a diagonal like / (One on top right, one on bottom left) to make sure they are properly "fix/tight".

I've had mine for long and they're more than enough to hold them.

Edit:

Woops, loser101 was faster


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


no guys what i mean is FAN>SHROUD>RADIATOR>SHROUD>FAN.
i make SHROUD to see what performance i can get.
but is too long.so i wonder what kind of screw should i get
i mean how i can i attached it to the radiator?
38mm+25mm = 63mm. i need at least a 65mm screw or longer.


You can try with the stock screws but instead of trying to go through the "back" of the fan you can put them through the other side/part. Will try to crudely illustrate.

DON'T DO
screws|fan||shroud||radiator||shroud||fan|screws

DO THIS
|fan/screws||shroud||radiator||shroud||screws/fan|

Instead of putting the screws on the outside parts of the fan put them on the other side where there is holes too. It will be difficult to screw them in but it will work and you can make it work with just two screws put them diagonally.

If I had room between the back of my case and where the H50 sticks out I would've put shrouds in between the fans but I couldn't even fit 1.


----------



## Kevdog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sozin*


Alright fells, I'm stumped.

I just picked up a 965BE and am idling at about 55C with an H50, and the CPU is stock completely. I haven't even done anything intensive for fear of how high it would go. I had to apply my own AS5 to the H50 and I did it several times to make sure it was right.

It starts about 35C idle when I first apply it, but it quickly rises up to 50C. Compared to my old X4 620 which idled at 28C and loaded at about 28C, I'm concerned. Is it the chip itself that just runs this hot or is the H50 just not enough.


Your case fan isn't spinning very fast is cool air getting in, is it like that with the cover off?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sozin* 
Alright fells, I'm stumped.

I just picked up a 965BE and am idling at about 55C with an H50, and the CPU is stock completely. I haven't even done anything intensive for fear of how high it would go. I had to apply my own AS5 to the H50 and I did it several times to make sure it was right.

It starts about 35C idle when I first apply it, but it quickly rises up to 50C. Compared to my old X4 620 which idled at 28C and loaded at about 38C, I'm concerned. Is it the chip itself that just runs this hot or is the H50 just not enough.

Are you using intake or exhaust?

Which fan is running @ 774 rpm - pls dont tell me thats your rad fan









You pump seems to be running within specs...

Your case ambients seem a little high. How is your case cooling?


----------



## Sozin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Are you using intake or exhaust?

Which fan is running @ 774 rpm - pls dont tell me thats your rad fan









You pump seems to be running within specs...

Your case ambients seem a little high. How is your case cooling?

I'm pretty sure the Chassis fan would be both stock case fans, the rad is in the CPU_fan while the Corsair fan is in the SYS_fan plugs. This is the exact setup that I used while the X4 620 was in.

[back of case][Antec fan / exhaust][H50][Corsair fan / intake]


----------



## GoTMaXPoWeR

I've mounted a second fan and I don't see any major difference in temperatures.

Still 42/44c idle at 4GHz.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sozin* 
I'm pretty sure the Chassis fan would be both stock case fans, the rad is in the CPU_fan while the Corsair fan is in the SYS_fan plugs. This is the exact setup that I used while the X4 620 was in.

[back of case][Antec fan / exhaust][H50][Corsair fan / intake]

Okay, seems you fans / pump is plugged in right.

So you have an antec fan as case exhaust and the corsair fan as intake on your rad.. where is your rad located?

Can you post a pic of your setup pls... makes it easy to see whats going on.


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


You can try with the stock screws but instead of trying to go through the "back" of the fan you can put them through the other side/part. Will try to crudely illustrate.

DON'T DO
screws|fan||shroud||radiator||shroud||fan|screws

DO THIS
|fan/screws||shroud||radiator||shroud||screws/fan|

Instead of putting the screws on the outside parts of the fan put them on the other side where there is holes too. It will be difficult to screw them in but it will work and you can make it work with just two screws put them diagonally.

If I had room between the back of my case and where the H50 sticks out I would've put shrouds in between the fans but I couldn't even fit 1.


i damm i just cant make it because the screw is too long to fit btw both of the fan hole.
i need to get a long long screw to screw + shroud in. will do it tmr. and will post my result.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


I would just like to thank all the H50 owners that answered the call of the Chimp Challenge this year; it was a fantastic run, proving that OCN are totally awesome (but we all knew it already, right?).

Keep folding for the cause!



Well said KH. Second the sentiment.

Congrats on your prize also!


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Is it better to run two antec tricools or two stock corsair fans with the h50?


----------



## Sozin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Okay, seems you fans / pump is plugged in right.

So you have an antec fan as case exhaust and the corsair fan as intake on your rad.. where is your rad located?

Can you post a pic of your setup pls... makes it easy to see whats going on.


----------



## digital_steve

Hey folks
Looking at the H50 for my system... i have the lian li pc-p50 with a gigabyte ga-790fxta-ud5 mobo with a 5970 gpu in there; it's a tad tight.
Has anyone installed this in a pc-p50 case? Will i actually be able to do it?

Love some help here

Cheers!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sozin*












Okay, so your exhausting?

The antec fan is at 744 rpm and the corsair is at 2538 rpm? (I thought the corsair fan was only rated to < 2000 rpm)

Is that correct?

If so, there is the problem. The antec is moving so slow, there is backwash back onto the rad. It cant clear the heat fast enough.


----------



## burt p.

here is my H50 setup (still working on it). cheapo Coolermaster R4 fans on some cheapo dremeled out 38mms.




























Need to remove a bit of metal thats blocking the bottom screws on the fan casing so that I can easily unscrew and remove the front fan. The idea is to have the radiator and shrouds securely screwed into the dvd-drive bay walls so that I can easily remove the fans for cleaning or swapping while the rest of the cooler stays put.


----------



## krescent

Just built my system and have a slight issue........

I have a push/pull set up, as an intake, in the front of my case. it's :
push fan>shroud>rad>pull fan

2x Gentle Typhoon AP-15s.

with the arrows indicating the air direction.

I was expecting idle temps in the 20's. Instead I'm about 33 idle and 55 load, without any overclocking!

ambient is about 20C...

did I do something wrong?

EDIT:

i7 930
P6x58D-e asus mobo
stock voltage (1.264 under prime95 load)


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *burt p.*


here is my H50 setup (still working on it). cheapo Coolermaster R4 fans on some cheapo dremeled out 38mms.

Need to remove a bit of metal thats blocking the bottom screws on the fan casing so that I can easily unscrew and remove the front fan. The idea is to have the radiator and shrouds securely screwed into the dvd-drive bay walls so that I can easily remove the fans for cleaning or swapping while the rest of the cooler stays put.


Very nice. Dont underestemate the R4s... they are a capable lil fan









Quote:



Originally Posted by *krescent*


Just built my system and have a slight issue........

I have a push/pull set up, as an intake, in the front of my case. it's :
push fan>shroud>rad>pull fan

2x Gentle Typhoon AP-15s.

with the arrows indicating the air direction.

I was expecting idle temps in the 20's. Instead I'm about 33 idle and 55 load, without any overclocking!

ambient is about 20C...

did I do something wrong?

EDIT:

i7 930
P6x58D-e asus mobo
stock voltage (1.264 under prime95 load)


Idle temps are neither here nor there. Its your load temps that matter. I would have thought your load temp would be lower.

The two major factors here is your TIM and your fans. Which TIM did you use?

While the stock TIM is Shin Etsu, and good quality, they slap on too much. This can hurt temps as much as too little TIM.

While GTs are a nice fan, its CFM is a little low. You may want to try a couple of different fans with higher CFM eg the Coolermaster R4s, Scythe UK 2000s (38mm) etc.

I know some people are getting good results with the GTs but every set up is going to be different. What works for one, may not work for someone else.


----------



## krescent

gotcha. I used the stock TIM, out of box. That could be it!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-080-_-Product

that's what I want, correct?


----------



## Sozin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Okay, so your exhausting?

The antec fan is at 744 rpm and the corsair is at 2538 rpm? (I thought the corsair fan was only rated to < 2000 rpm)

Is that correct?

If so, there is the problem. The antec is moving so slow, there is backwash back onto the rad. It cant clear the heat fast enough.


I believe that's what it means. What do you suggest?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *krescent*


gotcha. I used the stock TIM, out of box. That could be it!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-080-_-Product

that's what I want, correct?


Yep - thats the one!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sozin*


I believe that's what it means. What do you suggest?


That Antec fan needs to be revved up to match the push fan's speed. Ideally, both fans should operate at the same speed. (+/- a few rpm)

It would be best if you can get the same type of fan for both push and pull.


----------



## Sozin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Yep - thats the one!

That Antec fan needs to be revved up to match the push fan's speed. Ideally, both fans should operate at the same speed. (+/- a few rpm)

It would be best if you can get the same type of fan for both push and pull.


Care to recommend some fans?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sozin* 
Care to recommend some fans?

My personal fav are the Scythe Ultra Kaze DFS123812L-2000, 2000 rpm 87.63 CFM 32.9 dBa (they are not that loud).

They are 38mm fans and move a heap of air. Pair them up with some shrouds and your laughing.

Others include the Coolermaster R4s, Yate Loon D12SH-12, Zalman ZM-F3, Panaflo FBA12G12U1BX. There is a list on the front page of this thread with the most used fans and their specs.


----------



## Sozin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
My personal fav are the Scythe Ultra Kaze DFS123812L-2000, 2000 rpm 87.63 CFM 32.9 dBa (they are not that loud).

They are 38mm fans and move a heap of air. Pair them up with some shrouds and your laughing.

I'll have to look into it. After opening up the windows and with it being freezing cold at 230 in the morning, it's now idling at 40C, which I suppose is better than before.

But I'd rather not wait until 230 in the morning to get this thing down to a somewhat reasonable temperature.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


*continues folding my way to the top 1000 spots so i can get it attached to me in the forums* xD


Top 1500 get a forum postbit thingy btw









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Well said KH. Second the sentiment.

Congrats on your prize also!










Thanks, I've entered the redraw though as I dont use steam









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast*


Is it better to run two antec tricools or two stock corsair fans with the h50?


The corsair fans are better than the antec fans, but not by much if the antec fans are turned up to the highest setting. I used an Antec Tricool and the Corsair stock in push/pull for a long time and the temperatures were quite reasonable. I normally undervolted both fans in fact.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


Hey folks
Looking at the H50 for my system... i have the lian li pc-p50 with a gigabyte ga-790fxta-ud5 mobo with a 5970 gpu in there; it's a tad tight.
Has anyone installed this in a pc-p50 case? Will i actually be able to do it?

Love some help here

Cheers!


I cant answer that personally but if you search "pc-p50" in the thread search tool you'll probably find some photos of someone in this thread that did







Good luck!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sozin*


I'll have to look into it. After opening up the windows and with it being freezing cold at 230 in the morning, it's now idling at 40C, which I suppose is better than before.

But I'd rather not wait until 230 in the morning to get this thing down to a somewhat reasonable temperature.


I have the same chip as you and I can tell you right now that your temperatures are too high







I would recommend reseating the cooler making sure of a few key points:
- make sure all the clips on the mounting ring line up with the teeth on the H50.
- make sure all the screws go in properly (note that you need to use the right screws from the box) and you cant wiggle the thing about after the install.
- check that the thermal paste is ok, you might need to reapply in which case the best method we have found is 5 small dots places on the CPU.

As a guideline I would expect to see idle temps at a maximum of about +10C from ambient though this will depend a lot on your setup (ie. hot graphics cards). If you are sure you've mounted it right then it could be any number of problems, including bad case air flow - but most likely adding some more powerful fans to the radiator will solve the problem.

~Killhouse


----------



## gus

i am now using 2 of these as push pull exaust and the noise level went through the roof but my temps had a huge drop Delta AFB1212GHE-F00

RPM 5200 RPM
Air Flow 240.96 CFM
Noise Level 62 dBA

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835213001


----------



## Sozin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


I have the same chip as you and I can tell you right now that your temperatures are too high







I would recommend reseating the cooler making sure of a few key points:
- make sure all the clips on the mounting ring line up with the teeth on the H50.
- make sure all the screws go in properly (note that you need to use the right screws from the box) and you cant wiggle the thing about after the install.
- check that the thermal paste is ok, you might need to reapply in which case the best method we have found is 5 small dots places on the CPU.

As a guideline I would expect to see idle temps at a maximum of about +10C from ambient though this will depend a lot on your setup (ie. hot graphics cards). If you are sure you've mounted it right then it could be any number of problems, including bad case air flow - but most likely adding some more powerful fans to the radiator will solve the problem.

~Killhouse


Believe me, I've reset and the cooler and reapplied paste about four times already and it was still in the 40Cs; as for other components, it's just an 8800GT and four hard drives but my Athlong X4 620 was running with the same components and was handling temps very nicely.

I'll probably end up ordering a Scythe Ultra Kaze to replace the Antec fan in the back just to see if it can improve anything.


----------



## XtachiX

guys just 2.5 hours more and i'll have my h50 along with the other components that i ordered! =D


----------



## hitman1985

r5gtt, heres the temps im reaching at 1.36v vcore, which is a good bit higher then your 1.2xv vcore









id say you should try to set up the h50 in a different spot maybe ...


----------



## Sozin

Holy god that thing is hot.


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sozin*


Holy god that thing is hot.


of corse its hot, its an i7 @ 4ghz x8 ....


----------



## Sozin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hitman1985*


of corse its hot, its an i7 @ 4ghz x8 ....


I was not aware they hit that high of temps, or I suppose high compared to what AMD hits.


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sozin*


I was not aware they hit that high of temps, or I suppose high compared to what AMD hits.












i7s can take the heat though, the 965 i had wasnt much to be proud of :










same cooler, same case, same room


----------



## Sozin

That's as high as you could take it? Mine lasted about eight hours of Prime95 at 4.1Ghz before I stopped it, albeit the temperature was nearing 60C, which is why I decided to post in this thread.


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sozin* 
That's as high as you could take it? Mine lasted about eight hours of Prime95 at 4.1Ghz before I stopped it, albeit the temperature was nearing 60C, which is why I decided to post in this thread.

i didnt bother going higher







as i would have had to raise the vcore, and i didnt feel like it, due to my i7 rig being on the way i left it at 3.8...


----------



## jameschisholm

These might be worth a look : Akasa AK-FN059 120mm Ultra Quiet Viper Cool Fan


----------



## Kand

Akasa... *Shudder*


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kand* 
Akasa... *Shudder*

I am using 2 Akasa Apache for my setup is there something I should be worried about?


----------



## Kand

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
I am using 2 Akasa Apache for my setup is there something I should be worried about?

Just a brand I wouldnt touch. Is all.


----------



## senth

Great cooling system. for my new build










never went close to 50C. peaked at 47


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 
i didnt bother going higher







as i would have had to raise the vcore, and i didnt feel like it, due to my i7 rig being on the way i left it at 3.8...

I can't comment on your I7 but those are just ridiculous temps for your 965 at 3.8 ghz







. What the heck was you ambient temp?? 26 C?? At 20 C ambient my 965 C3 idles at 26-27 and never goes beyond 43 C after 3 hours of prime 95 blended. When I ramped it up to 4.017 ghz at 1.5 volts, max temp on my old fans was 53 C, with these UK 2000 I expect is would now max at about 51 C.


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
I can't comment on your I7 but those are just ridiculous temps for your 965 at 3.8 ghz







. What the heck was you ambient temp?? 26 C?? At 20 C ambient my 965 C3 idles at 26-27 and never goes beyond 43 C after 3 hours of prime 95 blended. When I ramped it up to 4.017 ghz at 1.5 volts, max temp on my old fans was 53 C, with these UK 2000 I expect is would now max at about 51 C.









nope, was just a junk cpu.

ambient here is sub 23C


----------



## DavidL

Quick question before I jump on the H50 at my local Micro Center or Fry's. Is there any reason why one shouldn't consider the H50 coming from air cooling? I've heard mainly good things about it but am still debating whether the $80 is worth price.


----------



## buste2

from a death knight, i believe its like 3-5 degrees different? I believe most people upgraded from a death knight said it was worth it.


----------



## PCSarge

i blow my nose at you so called "arthur king" you and all your silly english KNNNNNNNIGGITS!

lmao im so bored


----------



## ecaftermath

Noob question...

I'm going to do a push/pull exhaust with the H50. A kaze 35mm thick to push and a 25mm to pull. I put the stock screws to screw the 25mm and the rad together. What do I use to screw/tie the 35mm fan to the rad as a push? I don't have any screws long enough or anything right now. I tried zip ties, but how do you zip in into the rad screw hole?

Thanks


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i blow my nose at you so called "arthur king" you and all your silly english KNNNNNNNIGGITS!

lmao im so bored


yes you are


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
i blow my nose at you so called "arthur king" you and all your silly english KNNNNNNNIGGITS!

lmao im so bored

One of these days... we need to party... we could get rat faced and stupid and quote movie lines at each other


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
One of these days... we need to party... we could get rat faced and stupid and quote movie lines at each other

















What hope is there for this planet...


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*









What hope is there for this planet...


Yeah, it sounds like a scene from Big Bang Theory


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hitman1985*


idle temps are worthless.


Load temps


----------



## PCSarge

those load temps are impossible....what the hel lare you testing with.....
if your ambient room temp is above 5C then your lying :O


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


those load temps are impossible....what the hel lare you testing with.....
if your ambient room temp is above 5C then your lying :O


Hey, no lie?!

My temps are lower than most because my PC sits underneath an AC vent in my room.. H50 intakes the cool air before it gets warm.

The AC does turn off so the program would record the temp difference.

My ambient temps are 22c


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


Hey, no lie?!

My temps are lower than most because my PC sits underneath an AC vent in my room.. H50 intakes the cool air before it gets warm.

The AC does turn off so the program would record the temp difference.

My ambient temps are 22c


i see your max temp is 46'C
and your load is 27'C?
Why don't u use prime 95 stress it + core temp take SS and show us


----------



## Carfanatic

I wanted to see what I got at stock with my H50 and my new fans and push/pull setup. Here are the results.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
I wanted to see what I got at stock with my H50 and my new fans and push/pull setup. Here are the results.










how cold is your room lol


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
how cold is your room lol

72 F or about 22 C

I guess the Akasa Apache fans I got ended up being a good purchase.

I think that's a good way to take screen shots of load temps easy to tell if someone is really putting a load or not for sure.


----------



## senth

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ecaftermath* 
Noob question...

I'm going to do a push/pull exhaust with the H50. A kaze 35mm thick to push and a 25mm to pull. I put the stock screws to screw the 25mm and the rad together. What do I use to screw/tie the 35mm fan to the rad as a push? I don't have any screws long enough or anything right now. I tried zip ties, but how do you zip in into the rad screw hole?

Thanks

the stock screws are #6-32 1 1/4 inch.
When I went to a hardware store to get extra for the pull fan. i saw #6-32 1 1/2 to 2 inch long. that should be long enough for ur fan


----------



## digital_steve

So... push/pull=0 degrees!?


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


i see your max temp is 46'C
and your load is 27'C?
Why don't u use prime 95 stress it + core temp take SS and show us


 My average load is 46c.. over night stress testing I seen it reach 52c with a 3.8Ghz 1.44v overclock.

I have my overclock at 3.7GHz 1.39v to enable cool n quiet


----------



## pcnuttie

APACHE fans? http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ak12ap57cfmi.html

dude they are only 57CFM. Probably just because your AC is above your case, kinda stupid cuz in the summer it's gonna leak maybe 1 or 2 water on your case from the AC cuz of the heat in the summer, moisture will build up if you crank it up and keep it on programmed. IMO.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


APACHE fans? http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ak12ap57cfmi.html

dude they are only 57CFM. Probably just because your AC is above your case, kinda stupid cuz in the summer it's gonna leak maybe 1 or 2 water on your case from the AC cuz of the heat in the summer, moisture will build up if you crank it up and keep it on programmed. IMO.


I think you are confusing me with ToxicAdam I do not have AC over my PC I have central air and maintain a constant 72 F/22 C and I am the one using the Akasa Apache fans the exact one you linked but the black one. The 57CFM seem to be working awesome for me at least I haven't seen them go above 49% fan speed yet been running prime95 and this browser and cpuid for two hours now will keep it going for a bit longer see if it changes.


----------



## XtachiX

omg omg omg! i have put everything together and wow, temps dropped by A LOT (compared to that crappy little intel cpu cooler...) the haf 922 looks sooo sweet, and hd5770 is awesome!
will post pics soon, when i'm not lazy


----------



## SpeedwayNative

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I wanted to see what I got at stock with my H50 and my new fans and push/pull setup. Here are the results.












Ummm.....Something is REALLY WRONG with either your sensors, this program, or the program install. Because, this is IMPOSSIBLE, no matter what your fans you use, LMAO!!! You can't even get your temps this low on a FULL blown Water Cooling Setup!!!!

Think of it this way, on your pc your temps on ANY hardware in your case CAN'T be lower than the ambient temp in the room unless your throwing LN2 in the mix. So unless you are cooling your room down to Freezing







............... well you get the picture!!

H50 - $80
2 fans for Push/Pull - $20
0 degrees Celcius and thinking the fans were a great choice - PRICELESS


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpeedwayNative*


Ummm.....Something is REALLY WRONG with either your sensors, this program, or the program install. Because, this is IMPOSSIBLE, no matter what your fans you use, LMAO!!! You can't even get your temps this low on a FULL blown Water Cooling Setup!!!!

Think of it this way, on your pc your temps on ANY hardware in your case CAN'T be lower than the ambient temp in the room unless your throwing LN2 in the mix. So unless you are cooling your room down to Freezing







............... well you get the picture!!

H50 - $80
2 fans for Push/Pull - $20
0 degrees Celcius and thinking the fans were a great choice - PRICELESS










 Dude, he has an unlocked quad core. The core temps always show up as 0 because they get disabled when you unlock extra AMD cores.


----------



## SpeedwayNative

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


Dude, he has an unlocked quad core. The core temps always show up as 0 because they get disabled when you unlock extra AMD cores.


Now I'm confused, his system in his sig says and AMD 965, and thats not an unlocked quad. Am I missing something?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


Dude, he has an unlocked quad core. The core temps always show up as 0 because they get disabled when you unlock extra AMD cores.


So any way to get them to show properly?

And if you look at the CPUID it shows AMD Phenom II X4 965

I am guessing though that the CPU fan % is displayed correctly though?


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


So any way to get them to show properly?

And if you look at the CPUID it shows AMD Phenom II X4 965


I think I saw you post a cpu-z before that said B50


----------



## gus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


Dude, he has an unlocked quad core. The core temps always show up as 0 because they get disabled when you unlock extra AMD cores.


true true and if you look at his 3 temps at the temp tab those are more like what the temp actually is


----------



## SpeedwayNative

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


So any way to get them to show properly?

And if you look at the CPUID it shows AMD Phenom II X4 965



I would 1st uninstall and reinstall, see if the temps start reading properly that way. If not, then it's prob time to find a new prog! Like Everest, Core Temp, or even AMD OverDrive also has a Temp monitor! But I would rather run a much smaller prog for it than OverDrive!

Core Temp

http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/

try this

or just Google AMD temperature monitor and choose 1


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


I think I saw you post a cpu-z before that said B50


Other than the pictures I posted a while ago of my build this is the only other pic I have posted.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpeedwayNative*


I would 1st uninstall and reinstall, see if the temps start reading properly that way. If not, then it's prob time to find a new prog! Like Everest, Core Temp, or even AMD OverDrive also has a Temp monitor! But I would rather run a much smaller prog for it than OverDrive!

Core Temp

http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/

try this

or just Google AMD temperature monitor and choose 1










Core Temp showed 0 also.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Other than the pictures I posted a while ago of my build this is the only other pic I have posted.


 Then could you post a cpu-z validation with your name?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


Then could you post a cpu-z validation with your name?


\\\\


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1181282


No problems there I suppose.

Although, your voltage is massive for only stock... I would manually lower it a bit.

EDIT: My bad for accusing you bout the 550, I have one and I thought that that problem only happens on unlocked processors.


----------



## SpeedwayNative

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Core Temp showed 0 also.


What about AMD OverDrive then?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


No problems there I suppose.

Although, your voltage is massive for only stock... I would manually lower it a bit.

EDIT: My bad for accusing you bout the 550, I have one and I thought that that problem only happens on unlocked processors.


No problems from me







(not you) but others don't know how to take jokes.

I have been stumped myself I can't figure out a way to show my temps at all other than my bios figured it would be funny to post my temps.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Here's a pic of my 550 doing the same thing


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpeedwayNative*


What about AMD OverDrive then?


AMD OverDrive cannot detect AMD-7 series on this computer


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


AMD OverDrive cannot detect AMD-7 series on this computer










 It's because of your motherboard somehow.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
It's because of your motherboard somehow.

Strange CPU-Z seems to detect it just fine. I have been waiting for a bios update that supports the new x6 AMD CPU though.


----------



## Kevdog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Here's a pic of my 550 doing the same thing









CPUID was doing that to me when I had the EC firmware set to hybrid in the bios


----------



## damric

Ok I think I have pretty well decided to try out one of these H50's. I am going to get it and set it up as stock. I'll probably test it for a few days as an intake, then test it as an exhaust.

Then later I'll do some modifications, starting with the push-pull.


----------



## Carfanatic

I looked to see if there was a new bios update just a minute ago and decided to download the MSI OverclockingCenter it does seem to show my CPU temp but it either doesn't like my resolution(1920x1080) or is just a piss poor program it is very hard to see the temp and only see half of it but easy enough to convert C to F.

So is 60-61C a high temp at load using prime95?


----------



## damric

pulled trigger. awaiting fedex. I'll post some pics when I install it


----------



## b0klau

Here's mine:


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
I looked to see if there was a new bios update just a minute ago and decided to download the MSI OverclockingCenter it does seem to show my CPU temp but it either doesn't like my resolution(1920x1080) or is just a piss poor program it is very hard to see the temp and only see half of it but easy enough to convert C to F.

So is 60-61C a high temp at load using prime95?

Yeah 60 is pretty high, I would lower your vcore if possible. 55 is the highest i would allow for 24.7 usage.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *b0klau* 
Here's mine:

Nice pic.

I tried to add a shroud to mine but wouldn't fit. I am going to make a custom enclosure to be able to have it go out the front of my case instead of the back then I will be able to put a shroud between both fans.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Yeah 60 is pretty high, I would lower your vcore if possible. 55 is the highest i would allow for 24.7 usage.

K brb going to change it see my results after.


----------



## b0klau

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Nice pic.

I tried to add a shroud to mine but wouldn't fit. I am going to make a custom enclosure to be able to have it go out the front of my case instead of the back then I will be able to put a shroud between both fans.

Ty. Yea, I'm looking for ways to mount the rad in the front as well.


----------



## SpeedwayNative

Mobo could definitely be the issue! I know it's not the AMD 965, because I have that cpu in a MSI 790FX-GD70 and my temps read just fine in AMD OverDrive

As a last ditch effort have you tried Everest?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


Yeah 60 is pretty high, I would lower your vcore if possible. 55 is the highest i would allow for 24.7 usage.


I tried my vcore at 1.2 wasn't stable but seems to be stable at 1.25 so far and my temp is staying at 49-50C


----------



## Simple_echo

Finally picked up a H50. I have it set up as a rear intake in a Cooler Master Cosmos, my temps dropped to 35c idle. Haven't tested it under load yet, but playing Rocket Knight at 1920x1080 brings it up to 45c. This is according to AMD OverDrive, and after having it installed for only 10 minutes.

I think I'm going to set up a second fan for push/pull, not sure if I should go exhaust or intake though. I'm thinking intake would be fine since I have two exhaust fans up top?

So glad I don't need to hear the stock cooling scream at me anymore when I play a game.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Simple_echo*


Finally picked up a H50. I have it set up as a rear intake in a Cooler Master Cosmos, my temps dropped to 35c idle. Haven't tested it under load yet, but playing Rocket Knight at 1920x1080 brings it up to 45c. This is according to AMD OverDrive, and after having it installed for only 10 minutes.

I think I'm going to set up a second fan for push/pull, not sure if I should go exhaust or intake though. I'm thinking intake would be fine since I have two exhaust fans up top?

So glad I don't need to hear the stock cooling scream at me anymore when I play a game.










One of the biggest reasons I finally changed out my stock. Even at full bore with the push/pull setup I have it is at a low hum I can only hear it when I have all audio off and no headset on.


----------



## Sethy666

Folks,

Ive noticed a increasing trend of people accusing others of being liars or being deceptive in their posts.

Can we try to take a deep breathe and get our facts right before engaging keyboards.

This is a great forum and a very helpful thread, I wouldnt like to see it go down the septic because of this type of behavior.

That and the moderators take a dim view of this type of behavior. Lets not give them a reason to visit us more often than they already do


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I tried my vcore at 1.2 wasn't stable but seems to be stable at 1.25 so far and my temp is staying at 49-50C


 Now that sounds a lot better.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Folks,

Ive noticed a increasing trend of people accusing others of being liars or being deceptive in their posts.

Can we try to take a deep breathe and get our facts right before engaging keyboards.

This is a great forum and a very helpful thread, I wouldnt like to see it go down the septic because of this type of behavior.

That and the moderators take a dim view of this type of behavior. Lets not give them a reason to visit us more often than they already do









Lies Sethy, darned lies!

I mean...errr... quite right Sethy, thank you


----------



## pcnuttie

Check this out if you guys haven't read this.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...0-eco-l-c.html

Very interesting results!


----------



## DavidL

Ok, so I picked up the H50 earlier today and for some odd reason, the H50 is making my CPU run 6C warmer than my air cooled Xigmatek Dark Knight. It may be the fact that I opted to run the fan backwards (pushing air out of the chassis), but even after replacing the stock thermal paste with ICD7 and swapping the stock fan for a 110CFM fan, temps were still 4C warmer than the Xigmatek. Has anyone experienced this before?

Also, would you folks think adding another fan to make it a push/pull helps significantly with the temps on the H50?


----------



## DeckerDontPlay

Corsair advises to pull air from outside thru the rad. I think there is a few test results floating around. Try that and see if it improves temps. You might have to wait for the thermal paste to cure as well for optimum temps.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DavidL*


Ok, so I picked up the H50 earlier today and for some odd reason, the H50 is making my CPU run 6C warmer than my air cooled Xigmatek Dark Knight. It may be the fact that I opted to run the fan backwards (pushing air out of the chassis), but even after replacing the stock thermal paste with ICD7 and swapping the stock fan for a 110CFM fan, temps were still 4C warmer than the Xigmatek. Has anyone experienced this before?

Also, would you folks think adding another fan to make it a push/pull helps significantly with the temps on the H50?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *DeckerDontPlay*


Corsair advises to pull air from outside thru the rad. I think there is a few test results floating around. Try that and see if it improves temps. You might have to wait for the thermal paste to cure as well for optimum temps.


DeckerDontPlay is correct; and so are you - adding a 2nd fan should dramatically improve your temperatures. If your graphics cards exhaust heat inside the case then you might consider an intake system; but if your graphics cards have rear heat exhausts then I would leave it as exhaust but make sure your case is getting enough airflow


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
I looked to see if there was a new bios update just a minute ago and decided to download the MSI OverclockingCenter it does seem to show my CPU temp but it either doesn't like my resolution(1920x1080) or is just a piss poor program it is very hard to see the temp and only see half of it but easy enough to convert C to F.

So is 60-61C a high temp at load using prime95?

That is ridiculous high! Anything over 60 could fry your 965. More detail would be nice. Is this at stock settings? overclocked and if so at what voltage? For comparison, my 965 C3 at 20 C ambient with stock voltage and 3.8 ghz CPU speed, run at 26 C idle and 43 C max temp on Prime 95 blended test (after 3 hours). With a bump to 4.017 Ghz at 1.5 volts I idle at 32 C and max temp is approx 52-53 C after 3 hours Prime 95 blended.

Somthing is seriously wrong with your set up!


----------



## scottath

Well - thought i'd post here again:

well - put system back together.....and added more:


















got my second HDD back in and a 120*38mm fan + a 120*25mm shroud.
and the fan is touching the 24ping connector btw.

ok - internally watercooled + 120*38mm fan


































Link to the rest of the log in my sig


----------



## Killhouse

I would rep you if I could *scottath,* fantastic build. I'm still amazed by the H50 sitting in that tiny container


----------



## scottath

there is a glitch so that you can actually - but anyhow....

thanks mate.

im thinking of getting some more stuff done - see my thread (window, some more cooling stuff etc)


----------



## garnet1985

Currently running at 4ghz with 1.275v on the vcore, with a d0 i7-930, and I'm sitting at about 44-46c idle, and seeing as high as 85c under full load with Prime95. Current setup is h50 in exhaust with twin noctua's in a push-pull config in an Antec 1200 case. Is this normal? After seeing some of the results other people have gotten with the H50, I'm trying to figure out if I've got a bad unit or it's something I did. I've reseated the heatsink several times now and am using AC MX-2 TIM (all I have on hand). The pump controls are showing a steading 1400rpm +- 10%, which seems fine but I'm still running very hot.


----------



## scottath

sounds like a mounting issue - or the pump is being undervolted?


----------



## garnet1985

I've got the pump plugged right into the mainboard, and went through bios to hardset it at 100%. Would I need to change something elsewhere?

I may try re-tightening the mounting screws and see if I'm just not getting enough contact. Just sort of running out of ideas.


----------



## scottath

sounds like everything is right.....

not using some stupid amount of cpu voltage or something ?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *garnet1985*


Currently running at 4ghz with 1.275v on the vcore, with a d0 i7-930, and I'm sitting at about 44-46c idle, and seeing as high as 85c under full load with Prime95. Current setup is h50 in exhaust with twin noctua's in a push-pull config in an Antec 1200 case. Is this normal? After seeing some of the results other people have gotten with the H50, I'm trying to figure out if I've got a bad unit or it's something I did. I've reseated the heatsink several times now and am using AC MX-2 TIM (all I have on hand). The pump controls are showing a steading 1400rpm +- 10%, which seems fine but I'm still running very hot.


What are your ambient temperatures? Do you have a particularly hot graphics card that could be exhausting near your H50 intake? Do you have plenty of case airflow?

Just some things to look at


----------



## kcuestag

Hey guys!

Currently running a Corsair H50 in a "Push/Pull" setup as exhaust (For some reason works better than intake, i think because it is taking the heat from the HD5970 into the rad, so exhaust works better) with x2 Xigmatek XLF-F1253 and I had a few questions.

Right now I am running my CPU @ 4Ghz with 1.5v, and the iddle temps while on msn and steam are usually around 35-37ÂºC and full with Linx or Bad Company 2 after while get almost to 52ÂºC.

Now my question is, do you think it is worth to put the H50 in the Drive bays?

Here's how it's actually installed (With some Revoltec 1200rpm fans on that picture):



If I were to install it on the Drive bays, how could I do that?

And my last question is, any specific fans you would recommend me to install on the H50 that are available either on www.caseking.de or www.hardwareversand.de ?

Thanks,
Kevin.


----------



## garnet1985

I "should"







1200 has all stock fans, minus the large top fan, replaced with Yate Loon high speed 120mm fans using the same configs as the stock fans. All plugged into the PS. The rad/fan is all mounted on the top CPU exhaust fan on the 1200, with my sli 470's all the way at the other end of the case. I have the Noctua's plugged right into the power supply molex connectors so I'm pretty sure they're running full speed.

CPU voltages are at 1.275 on vcore and 1.325 vtt both were as low as I could go to remain stable at 4ghz.


----------



## mmx+

My H50 setup:


----------



## Killhouse

@Garnet

Hmm my initial reaction would be that the H50 is still drawing heat from those SLI 470s, but then you have 2 (?) exhaust fans behind the motherboard anyway... You might want to try an intake method but I have a feeling the problem may be more fundamental.

When you screw it down, it is important that you use the correct screws (there are 8, 4 small and 4 big - though hard to tell by looking). I dont know which you should use for your mounting system but they shouldnt "wobble" as you tighten them up. It took me a few attempts to mount it correctly.

I would also run a search through this thread for normal temperatures for your chip


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Hey guys!

Currently running a Corsair H50 in a "Push/Pull" setup as exhaust (For some reason works better than intake, i think because it is taking the heat from the HD5970 into the rad, so exhaust works better) with x2 Xigmatek XLF-F1253 and I had a few questions.

Right now I am running my CPU @ 4Ghz with 1.5v, and the iddle temps while on msn and steam are usually around 35-37ÂºC and full with Linx or Bad Company 2 after while get almost to 52ÂºC.

Now my question is, do you think it is worth to put the H50 in the Drive bays?

Here's how it's actually installed (With some Revoltec 1200rpm fans on that picture):



If I were to install it on the Drive bays, how could I do that?

And my last question is, any specific fans you would recommend me to install on the H50 that are available either on www.caseking.de or www.hardwareversand.de ?

Thanks,
Kevin.


There is a great list of fans on the front page maintained by Sethy, I suggest you check that out! There are a few guides around for drive bay mounting if you search this thread - though really I dont think it will make a big difference. You might consider adding fan shrouds instead to drop your temperatures.


----------



## garnet1985

@Killhouse, and also thanks for the help.










That's how I have it setup now, are the 8 screws you mentioned the ones I have mounting the rad and fans? I'm sort of wondering how tight the screws on the CPU should be for the main unit ... I'm always very hesitant to tighten them too much.

From what I've seen both in this thread and others, I'm about 5-8c over what the "normal" temps are for my CPU, even at my overclock, and most of the air coolers I've seen are getting better numbers.

I guess I can bump the fan speed up on the video cards and try and eject more heat out the back of the system and see if that will lower ambient temps.

Just hoping that it's something I'm doing wrong and not a faulty unit or something. Really not up for doing the RMA dance.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *garnet1985*


@Killhouse, and also thanks for the help.










That's how I have it setup now, are the 8 screws you mentioned the ones I have mounting the rad and fans? I'm sort of wondering how tight the screws on the CPU should be for the main unit ... I'm always very hesitant to tighten them too much.

From what I've seen both in this thread and others, I'm about 5-8c over what the "normal" temps are for my CPU, even at my overclock, and most of the air coolers I've seen are getting better numbers.

I guess I can bump the fan speed up on the video cards and try and eject more heat out the back of the system and see if that will lower ambient temps.

Just hoping that it's something I'm doing wrong and not a faulty unit or something. Really not up for doing the RMA dance.










Ouch, I think the problem is the way you have the radiator mounted - looks like far too much bend on the radiator pipes there. Try re-orientating it to get that ***** out!


----------



## garnet1985

Will do, I suppose I've reseated this thing enough by now it should go quickly. I suppose I can just rotate the base a little so the cables arc back and up instead of down and to the side. I guess it really doesn't matter the orientation on the pump ... i mean it's not like I really care if the Corsair logo is upside down lol. I guess we'll see after I get home tonight, thanks for the tips; hopefully it helps.


----------



## Killhouse

Yeah, just make sure you get rid of that fold in the pipe. It's probably restricted water flow a lot and bad for the health of the unit.


----------



## Gunderman456

Hi Guys,

This link should also help answer some of the ongoing questions such as;

http://www.vortez.co.uk/contenttelle..._review,9.html

1. Should I go with exhaust or intake?
2. Should I keep stock Tim or replace with something else?
3. What push/pull fans should I use?
4. Is the Corsair H-50 truely better then air?


----------



## PCSarge

i blow my nose at you!









i made it to 1350 in rankings









postbit time


----------



## LiLChris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gunderman456* 
1. Should I go with exhaust or intake? *Either is fine, intake is what i use*
2. Should I keep stock Tim or replace with something else? *Stock tim is a good one*
3. What push/pull fans should I use? *Gentle typhoons (quiet) or Ultra Kaze (performance)*
4. Is the Corsair H-50 truely better then air? *Depends which one your comparing but its relatively top of the line*

Hope that helps

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
i blow my nose at you!









i made it to 1350 in rankings









postbit time









Gratz!


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LiLChris* 
Gratz!

why tyvm


----------



## Heli0s

Hey guys i got the H50 not hooked up yet because i wan't get 2 fans
what fans should i get? i'd like them to be like 1800~2000 rpm and not so loud








ty


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Heli0s* 
Hey guys i got the H50 not hooked up yet because i wan't get 2 fans
what fans should i get? i'd like them to be like 1800~2000 rpm and not so loud








ty

Scythe Gentle Typhoon A15s - 1850RPM - whisper silent, yet best pressure / db

looks like:


found here or here


----------



## Heli0s

is there something with more air flow and it can be more louder then the typhoons like i said it can be loud but not to much


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Heli0s* 
is there something with more air flow and it can be more louder then the typhoons like i said it can be loud but not to much









next step up would i guess be ultra kaze's.... never had them myself, so i cant say something about them.

but my typhoons push better temps then loud as hell yate loon high speeds, so keep in mind its not airflow that counts, its static pressure......

if you have the money, shoot for some triebwerks.


----------



## fssbzz

Shroud reduce the dba?

my Ultra Kaze without shroud direct on the radiator are way louder then with Shroud on.

*so shroud will reduce your Dba?*

i'm planning to get 3000's then. 2000's is really not loud to me at all.


----------



## Magus2727

It can, by how much I don’t know if it’s been tested. It reduces turbulence so the fan will run quieter...


----------



## ecaftermath

Well I got my push/pull fan setup down just now.

A Scythe Slip Stream Kaze Jyuni 2000RPM as pull and a Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000RPM as push.

Using Haf932 with 3 fans on the side panel and 2 fans on top. All as intakes. So the only exhaust is the H50!

Here's a picture!


----------



## fssbzz

so the more shroud i add the better the dba?




























?


----------



## Magus2727

I think any thing larger then a 1/2" or 3/4" will result in no added decrease in noise.

You could get a dB meter and then be the first to post a result!


----------



## ecaftermath

The temps are not as good as the TRUE I had before :|


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
That is ridiculous high! Anything over 60 could fry your 965. More detail would be nice. Is this at stock settings? overclocked and if so at what voltage? For comparison, my 965 C3 at 20 C ambient with stock voltage and 3.8 ghz CPU speed, run at 26 C idle and 43 C max temp on Prime 95 blended test (after 3 hours). With a bump to 4.017 Ghz at 1.5 volts I idle at 32 C and max temp is approx 52-53 C after 3 hours Prime 95 blended.

Somthing is seriously wrong with your set up!









My CPU is stock for now till I make sure my H50 is working correctly. My "stock" at least how my motherboard set it for my 965 vcore was 1.5. I was at idle around 45 C and load 60-61 C ambient temp 22 C. I got the lowest stable vcore at 1.25 now and my idle is 38 C and load 49-50 C ambient still the same 22 C.

My setup is the H50 push/pull venting/exhausting out the back with two Akasa Apache fans. I originally had it pulling cool air in but it was making my video cards scream when playing games. This is pictures of my case/setup I posted earlier it is all the same except I have the push/pull setup. To add I am using AS5 TIM.

In the pictures showing the fan(s) I have a note below them that tells which direction each is going.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post9263382

Any help would be greatly appreciated on what I should be getting for temps/how to fix any problems I may have.


----------



## looser101

I see some people using fans in the 1200-1500rpm range. Not to discourage you but, some of these fans have unknown static pressure and are not proven with rads (that I'm aware of). IMO ~2000rpm is the sweet spot. If you think you will get great temps on a fire breathing i7 cpu with slower and/or low static pressure fans, you would be mistaken. It takes the right combination of flow and pressure to move air quickly through a rads fins. I know in some regions or countries it may be hard to find some of the fans we suggest, but you are taking a gamble in deviating too far from the tried and true.

In no particular order, fans that are known to work well:
Gentle Typhoon AP15 (1850rpm) -25mm
CoolerMaster R4 (2000rpm) -25mm
Scythe Ultra Kaze (2000rpm) -38mm

There are plenty of other fans that are faster, noisier ,and with more flow and static pressure, out there. Unfortunately they are too loud for my liking and I take a pass on using those, but you are welcome to try. Please do not mistake a case fan with a high (claimed) cfm rating to automatically be a fan that works well with an H50 rad. When you put a restriction in front of them (a rad) they can barely muster any kind of airflow. Sometimes you are better off getting some of these noisier, better performing fans and slowing them down to a bearable level, if noise is your main concern.

Hope the above info helps you in selecting a great fan.


----------



## Luass Hole

Modding my H50 tonight. Switching the tubing with clear tubes and adding a Swiftech res. Uv purple fluid and Uv orange coils....PS for anyone tryn to mod there H50 don't get the liquid from the tubes in your mouth, I threw up a couple of times and felt really really dizzy. Since I have no health insurance I went to bed and woke up feeling better







Will post picks up tonight


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Luass Hole*


Modding my H50 tonight. Switching the tubing with clear tubes and adding a Swiftech res. Uv purple fluid and Uv orange coils....PS for anyone tryn to mod there H50 don't get the liquid from the tubes in your mouth, I threw up a couple of times and felt really really dizzy. Since I have no health insurance I went to bed and woke up feeling better







Will post picks up tonight










Short BUS!!!!

I dont think UV fluid is ideal.... it clogs your system up...


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Luass Hole*


Modding my H50 tonight. Switching the tubing with clear tubes and adding a Swiftech res. Uv purple fluid and Uv orange coils....PS for anyone tryn to mod there H50 don't get the liquid from the tubes in your mouth, I threw up a couple of times and felt really really dizzy. Since I have no health insurance I went to bed and woke up feeling better







Will post picks up tonight










I think there is glycol in it. Glycol is antifreeze and it will kill ya if you ingest enough of it.


----------



## Luass Hole

lol, i've heard mixed reviews....don't make fun of my overbite and wheelchair... Heres the liquid i got. My computer runs 24/7 all day every day, for people who let their computer sit for weeks at a time then yes the uv reactive flakes will settle causing build up. Again..this is what Ive heard. 6 months from now If I see settling ill let you know.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/70...LzCA&mv_pc=331

yea i looked up the lethal dose is 120ml and goodnight for me, i only got a couple of small drops on my lips....but it put me out for a couple of hours...I feel alright rite now, just have a splitting headache.


----------



## mayford5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Luass Hole*


Modding my H50 tonight. Switching the tubing with clear tubes and adding a Swiftech res. Uv purple fluid and Uv orange coils....PS for anyone tryn to mod there H50 don't get the liquid from the tubes in your mouth, I threw up a couple of times and felt really really dizzy. Since I have no health insurance I went to bed and woke up feeling better







Will post picks up tonight










Dude so totally with you on the throwing up. Basically what I found is the stock liquid in the h50 is basically antifreeze. Tastes and smells just like it. I know this from working under a car with my Da when I was younger I looked up and all of a sudden the the drain plug was open and my mouth was too. Puked for almost a day and a half with the taste and all. Looking forward to the pics.








Andrew


----------



## kpopsaranghae

Hey, just joined the club :] So im wondering, how big of a difference will getting a better fan to pull through the rad make?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mayford5* 
Dude so totally with you on the throwing up. Basically what I found is the stock liquid in the h50 is basically antifreeze. Tastes and smells just like it. I know this from working under a car with my Da when I was younger I looked up and all of a sudden the the drain plug was open and my mouth was too. Puked for almost a day and a half with the taste and all. Looking forward to the pics.








Andrew

I am not looking forward to pics of him throwing up but to each their own


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
Short BUS!!!!

I dont think UV fluid is ideal.... it clogs your system up...

erm.depends on what fluid u use?


----------



## mayford5

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
I am not looking forward to pics of him throwing up but to each their own









Ok you got me there.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kpopsaranghae* 
Hey, just joined the club :] So im wondering, how big of a difference will getting a better fan to pull through the rad make?

You can get a quieter fan with similar performance using a gentle typhoon, or you could go for a Feser or an Ultra-kaze for a big temp drop. Best performance will be with one fan on one side and another on the other side - if you can add shrouds too then you will also reduce noise and improve performance.


----------



## r34p3rex

Long shot, but if anyone is looking to get rid of their H50, PM me!


----------



## DavidL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kpopsaranghae* 
Hey, just joined the club :] So im wondering, how big of a difference will getting a better fan to pull through the rad make?

Well, from what I'm seeing, it doesn't make much of a difference. What really helps is using 2 fans for a push/pull. This made my CPU 7C cooler.


----------



## scaz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ecaftermath* 
Well I got my push/pull fan setup down just now.

A Scythe Slip Stream Kaze Jyuni 2000RPM as pull and a Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000RPM as push.

Using Haf932 with 3 fans on the side panel and 2 fans on top. All as intakes. So the only exhaust is the H50!

Here's a picture!

I am surpised you didn't put the rad for the h20 on the top. It would look cooler IMO


----------



## ryman546

anyone know where to pick up the replacement sticky pads for the backplate?


----------



## Magus2727

any thing of double sided sticky... you can get some Dynomat and put double sided type....

Try a craft store or something....

I dont think it really matters just as long as its NOT conductive


----------



## Simple_echo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546*
anyone know where to pick up the replacement sticky pads for the backplate?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
any thing of double sided sticky... you can get some Dynomat and put double sided type....

Try a craft store or something....

I dont think it really matters just as long as its NOT conductive

Would some Terrifically Tacky Tape work?


----------



## Magus2727

cant tell how thick it is... but you will want some like double sided foam tape... not sure where you can pick it up though..


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


cant tell how thick it is... but you will want some like double sided foam tape... not sure where you can pick it up though..


go to home depot and buy the double sided stick on window insulating tape







its like 2.99 for 10 feet xD


----------



## Simple_echo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
go to home depot and buy the double sided stick on window insulating tape







its like 2.99 for 10 feet xD

I think I have that in my garage, that means it's free. Woot!


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Simple_echo* 
I think I have that in my garage, that means it's free. Woot!









yeah the stuff works ...its what im using lol


----------



## ryman546

gracias.


----------



## Killhouse

You dont actually need that sticky pad, doesent matter if you dont have anything


----------



## ThirdLap

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mayford5*


Basically what I found is the stock liquid in the h50 is basically antifreeze.


Odd, straight water is better at dispersing heat than antifreeze. I wonder what kind of improvement could be had by switching the OEM fluid for distilled water.

Perhaps they just want to protect themselves in the off chance that someone's system actually does get hot enough to boil (antifreeze has a higher boiling point that water). Either that or they did it for the anti-corrosive properties of antifreeze, but you would think just using distilled water in a closed system would largely resolve that issue.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


You dont actually need that sticky pad, doesent matter if you dont have anything










This is true.

Also, I put a 12mm thick fan shroud on both sides of my h50 (from a scythe slim). It's cute and I'll see how much it helps. I figure that since the motors on the GTs are so huge it couldn't hurt.
Eventually I'll craft my own shrouds, as this still leaves the corners with minimal airflow. should reduce the dead zone though.

Edit: After some brief testing, my core temps went down 3-4C from their maximum values since I addeed two 12mm shrouds. (Made from these fans: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185137 )


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *staryoshi*


This is true.

Also, I put a 12mm thick fan shroud on both sides of my h50 (from a scythe slim). It's cute and I'll see how much it helps. I figure that since the motors on the GTs are so huge it couldn't hurt.
Eventually I'll craft my own shrouds, as this still leaves the corners with minimal airflow. should reduce the dead zone though.

Edit: After some brief testing, my core temps went down 3-4C from their maximum values since I addeed two 12mm shrouds. (Made from these fans: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185137 )











I guess my home made 44mm plexy shrouds aren't hurting my temps.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*










I guess my home made 44mm plexy shrouds aren't hurting my temps.










If I had more space I'd put two 25mm shrouds on, but I want to keep it contained within the case. GTs SUCK, and I mean in a good way. They have tons of pulling force, and lots o' pushing force, and they have the sexiest bearings in town. However the motor is large, so it couldn't hurt to give it some space to breath. I'll make my own at some point in time


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *staryoshi*


If I had more space I'd put two 25mm shrouds on, but I want to keep it contained within the case. GTs SUCK, and I mean in a good way. They have tons of pulling force, and lots o' pushing force, and they have the sexiest bearings in town. However the motor is large, so it couldn't hurt to give it some space to breath. I'll make my own at some time










That's why mine is mounted up front where there is lots of space for crazy large shrouds.


----------



## NCspecV81

Pimp'in one out on my easy to setup go to gaming rig - Yes that's not a stock H50 mount.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
My CPU is stock for now till I make sure my H50 is working correctly. My "stock" at least how my motherboard set it for my 965 vcore was 1.5. I was at idle around 45 C and load 60-61 C ambient temp 22 C. I got the lowest stable vcore at 1.25 now and my idle is 38 C and load 49-50 C ambient still the same 22 C.

My setup is the H50 push/pull venting/exhausting out the back with two Akasa Apache fans. I originally had it pulling cool air in but it was making my video cards scream when playing games. This is pictures of my case/setup I posted earlier it is all the same except I have the push/pull setup. To add I am using AS5 TIM.

In the pictures showing the fan(s) I have a note below them that tells which direction each is going.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post9263382

Any help would be greatly appreciated on what I should be getting for temps/how to fix any problems I may have.

Your picture is not push/pull, you only have one fan on it. My temps are with 2 Ultra Kaze 2000 rpm fans with 2 X 25 mm shrouds in push pull mounted in the spare drive bays pulling air in which quickly exists out the back and top. After carefully cleaning off the paste the H50 came with I replaced it with a thin film of MX2. Only thing yet to do is lap the CPU and H50. There are a list of things you should be checking which have been stated many times in this forum but I'll state them one more time:
-Make sure auto fan control or cool n quite is disabled in BIOs for all fans
-Pump should be running at about 1400 rpm, if not try plugging it directly into PSU instead of the motherboard
-Try taking temps with the side panel off to see if there is an airflow issue in case
-Ensure all teeth on ring are properly seated and evenly tightened down (pump should absolutely not move at all)
-Make sure you only used a thin film of TIM, you may want to lift off H50, re-clean, re-apply TIM and re-seat it
Your CPU voltage should be at 1.35 volts for the C3 version, 1.4 for the original version. With stock voltage you can easily up the multi to bring it to 3.8 ghz with no problem. If after all of the above your temps are still that high then you've gotten a bad H50 unit and should exchange it. Hope this helps.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Your picture is not push/pull, you only have one fan on it. My temps are with 2 Ultra Kaze 2000 rpm fans with 2 X 25 mm shrouds in push pull mounted in the spare drive bays pulling air in which quickly exists out the back and top. After carefully cleaning off the paste the H50 came with I replaced it with a thin film of MX2. Only thing yet to do is lap the CPU and H50. There are a list of things you should be checking which have been stated many times in this forum but I'll state them one more time:
-Make sure auto fan control or cool n quite is disabled in BIOs for all fans
-Pump should be running at about 1400 rpm, if not try plugging it directly into PSU instead of the motherboard
-Try taking temps with the side panel off to see if there is an airflow issue in case
-Ensure all teeth on ring are properly seated and evenly tightened down (pump should absolutely not move at all)
-Make sure you only used a thin film of TIM, you may want to lift off H50, re-clean, re-apply TIM and re-seat it
Your CPU voltage should be at 1.35 volts for the C3 version, 1.4 for the original version. With stock voltage you can easily up the multi to bring it to 3.8 ghz with no problem. If after all of the above your temps are still that high then you've gotten a bad H50 unit and should exchange it. Hope this helps.










I said in my post that the pictures where before I got my push pull setup and think I even said in the post that I put the pics in I was just waiting for the fans.

I changed my setup more today so I could add fan shrouds my old setup attached to the back of the case didn't have the space to add them in. I am putting the updated pics below.

I have 2xAkasa Apache 120mm fans I have 2x25mm fan shrouds and I have it venting out the front of my case now.

I have already tried re-seating the H50 to make sure I had the TIM and the pump sitting right it was and I did it the same way again.

I have checked my bios and Cool and Quiet is off.

I have my Vcore set to 1.25 and stock and no OC at all.
My current temp non load is 40 C with ambient being 22 C.
Load Temp is 49-50 C ambient being the same 22 C.

If the above temps are too high then I dunno either my fans are totally wrong(could be I just wanted something quiet) or I do have a bad H50.
I picked the fans because they have a higher CFM than stock but a lot lower db.

I am going to mod the mounts to the front of the case for the H50 tomorrow so it doesn't block the fans at all.




























And just for fun my girlfriends new rat er I mean dog.


----------



## looser101

You really need to turn those fans around so that you can pull nice cool air from the front of your case.


----------



## hitman1985

^^ make sure not to run the fans 100% as long as the dog is around









it might hover away from the air flow


----------



## staryoshi

I'm not going to lie, the dog is creeping me out. I may try going back to a single fan config and see how much of a diff it makes.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


You really need to turn those fans around so that you can pull nice cool air from the front of your case.


I originally had my setup like that but it made my video cards scream so loud I switched it.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I originally had my setup like that but it made my video cards scream so loud I switched it.


Turning the fans around is not going to make it drop by 12 degrees to 28 C which is what you should be aiming for at 22 C ambient. Not to insult your intelligence but is the pull fan airflow actually pulling vs pushing? I can't see the airflow arrows on it. If it's backwards that would certainly explain a lot. Other than that I'd suggest you return the H50 or try lapping it. I've read in this forum where some people found unusually high ridges on their H50 which were interferring with a good thermal flow. Also check your CPU to see how flat it is. In any case if either is the problem, lapping will fix it. You never mentioned the pump. Is it running at about 1400 rpm?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Turning the fans around is not going to make it drop by 12 degrees to 28 C which is what you should be aiming for at 22 C ambient. Not to insult your intelligence but is the pull fan airflow actually pulling vs pushing? I can't see the airflow arrows on it. If it's backwards that would certainly explain a lot. Other than that I'd suggest you return the H50 or try lapping it. I've read in this forum where some people found unusually high ridges on their H50 which were interferring with a good thermal flow. Also check your CPU to see how flat it is. In any case if either is the problem, lapping will fix it. You never mentioned the pump. Is it running at about 1400 rpm?










The fan inside the case the furthest is pushing air through the radiator and fan you see in the very front of the case is pulling air through the radiator. If you look at the pictures too the furthest in the case fan shows the Apache Black label while the front fan shows the Akasa label so they are definitely not working against each other. Good thought for sure would be something easy to miss.

My pump stays from 1372rpm to 1408rpm.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


And just for fun my girlfriends new rat er I mean dog.












hehehe i want your Rat... burp "dog"


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NCspecV81*


Pimp'in one out on my easy to setup go to gaming rig - Yes that's not a stock H50 mount.











man. that workplace is so clean. and tidy


----------



## Demon_panda

Here my dog


----------



## fssbzz

lol. from official H50 club become OCN official dog club


----------



## NCspecV81

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


man. that workplace is so clean. and tidy











=o)~


----------



## sendblink23

haahha "lol. from official H50 club become OCN official dog club"

Want to see my doggie?










some old pic of him


----------



## fssbzz

imma get x10 ultra kaze 3000 to blow all those doggy away.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


imma get x10 ultra kaze 3000 to blow all those doggy away.


It only takes a light breeze for my girlfriends rat....or I could just let my husky eat him.


----------



## DavidL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demon_panda*


Here my dog


That dog is adorable! Is it a cocker spaniel? I used to have an american cocker spaniel and he was just awesome









Quote:



Originally Posted by *NCspecV81*


=o)~











Just remember not to bring any foods or drinks near your rig, or else it's a disaster waiting to happen







Love the clean look though


----------



## Carfanatic

I ordered two Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-15 120mm fans before I exchange my H50 for another one.

Anyone have experience exchanging from Newegg? I have only returned before.

Or should I contact Corsair?


----------



## Michael Cox

I want to finish up my review but I want to find out the most common or accepted method of getting pump RPM in the community.

Appreciate the time.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Michael Cox* 
I want to finish up my review but I want to find out the most common or accepted method of getting pump RPM in the community.

Appreciate the time.

Put the pump plug on an adjustable fan header and make sure it is set to 100% or put it on one that isn't adjustable and is always at 100% and if you have anything like Cool and Quiet make sure it is disabled.


----------



## DavidL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I ordered two Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-15 120mm fans before I exchange my H50 for another one.

Anyone have experience exchanging from Newegg? I have only returned before.

Or should I contact Corsair?


Although I've heard mostly good things about Corsair's customer support, I'd probably still contact newegg first since they've always been great and fast with returns/exchanges.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Michael Cox*


I want to finish up my review but I want to find out the most common or accepted method of getting pump RPM in the community.

Appreciate the time.


I have mine connected directly to the PSU. That way the pump is ensured to always run at the max RPM and I won't have to worry about any BIOS settings (just one less step and hassle)


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Put the pump plug on an adjustable fan header and make sure it is set to 100% or put it on one that isn't adjustable and is always at 100% and if you have anything like Cool and Quiet make sure it is disabled.


This. Disable any volt/temp related options in BIOS and make it 100%. (Just like he said)


----------



## KILLER_K

I would just do the exchange with newegg as they are super easy to work with.


----------



## fssbzz

Check it out my H50 set up









http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...just-pics.html


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


Check it out my H50 set up









http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...just-pics.html


Nice setup how long did it all take you to put together?

Awaiting the temps pic


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


Check it out my H50 set up









http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...just-pics.html


Do it guys, its a great mod!

Well done fssbzz


----------



## NCspecV81

my h50 mod


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NCspecV81* 
my h50 mod










The mounting screws are longer... forgive my lack of looking but its been a long day... what else did you do?


----------



## NCspecV81

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
The mounting screws are longer... forgive my lack of looking but its been a long day... what else did you do?

backplate, studs, springs, washers, and threaded thumb nuts


----------



## Carfanatic

Okay so anyone still awake?

I just want to ease my anxiety over my new fan choice.

I just ordered two Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-15 120mm Fan to try on my H50 rather than the two Akasa Apache I currently have to see if the fans are causing/part of my temperature problem.

Before I can't change/cancel my fan order is there a better fan I could choose or should say a better choice over the GentleTyphoon that isn't going to be obnoxiously loud?

My main setup is used for gaming and HTPC so being too loud while watching Hulu, Netflix and other things is an issue.


----------



## Killhouse

The gentle typhoons are a good silent choice, perhaps not the best airflow but thats the price of silence









Your other option would be to get some powerful fans (ie Ultra Kaze 2k or a Feser Triebwerk 122) and undervolt them at low temperatures - they will almost as quiet but have the option of being cranked up.

My Feser (just push, not push/pull) keeps load temps below 52C at 25% fan speed - simply awesome!


----------



## Luass Hole

Found a extra camera laying about with a rechargeable battery:
B4









After



































What you guys think, not bad for my first pc mod ever?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Luass Hole*


Found a extra camera laying about with a rechargeable battery:
B4









After



































What you guys think, not bad for my first pc mod ever?


nah that what we call getting your feet wet, soon youll be swimming in a full WC build xD


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Michael Cox*


I want to finish up my review but I want to find out the most common or accepted method of getting pump RPM in the community.

Appreciate the time.


If you have a Scythe fan then you have one of these:










Connect the pump to a psu molex connector using that adapter so that you have full power to the pump, and connect the yellow wire pigtail to a mobo fan connector. Then use your favorite software to monitor the pump speed.


----------



## Luass Hole

Thanks PCSarge, feels good to get compliments on my hard work! My girlfriend took one look at it and was like...."You spent more money on this ****" ...


----------



## mayford5

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Luass Hole* 









What you guys think, not bad for my first pc mod ever?

Quick question for those of you who know. When looking at this picture does the H50 intake on the right and return on the left or is it the opposite. I am working on my new project. I got bored looking at just my h50 so I went all out and have built a custom loop to water cool my vcards also. I am using the H50 for an extra rad and the cpu block. Will have picks soon. BTW got my new NZXT Tempest EVO and it is the most roomy case I have ever had. I am not saying its the best but it is pretty darn good for a case that ends up under $100 after rebate.


----------



## Magus2727

I am not sure... you can cut a small slit in one of the lines and see if it either sucks in air or squirts out fluid.... use a 12V battery or if you have a second supply...

Usually the order of a loop the reservoir is before the input of the pump... I am at work and they have picture hosting sites blocked so i cant see them...


----------



## Luass Hole

yes the h50 intakes on the right


----------



## mayford5

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
I am not sure... you can cut a small slit in one of the lines and see if it either sucks in air or squirts out fluid.... use a 12V battery or if you have a second supply...

Usually the order of a loop the reservoir is before the input of the pump... I am at work and they have picture hosting sites blocked so i cant see them...

so res, pump, cpu block, rad, mine will look somewhat like this


----------



## Magus2727

I dont think on the H50 will really matter... but the Res is usually used so any air bubbles from the Rad or pump are taken out of the line before the blocks....

Thats what I have heard... might want to look on the other water cooling threads to see what order every one else has it set up at.


----------



## mayford5

I am very excited and giddy as a school girl







so to speak. Will be building tonight but I have to be at drill tomorrow morning by 0600 so I won't be able to play with it till Sunday.


----------



## XtachiX

so i've just finished taking pictures of my rig and stuff and i will upload it soon hopefully, within the next hour or less


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mayford5*


so res, pump, cpu block, rad, mine will look somewhat like this










If your setting up a loop in the same way your picture shows, it wont work. Splitting the flow from one pump like that wont work. Using the H50 as a WB makes me think your going to be using a cheap low ish flow pump. Its not going to work because of the restriction of the H50's parts.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


Check it out my H50 set up









http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...just-pics.html


I wish I had your room temperatures.... You can overclock very nice on those temps. Try hitting 4.21Ghz but ofcourse you would need to increase voltage... with your temps its more than fine.. I sense max load would be around 45c - 48c or probably lower on that overclock.


----------



## mayford5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


If your setting up a loop in the same way your picture shows, it wont work. Splitting the flow from one pump like that wont work. Using the H50 as a WB makes me think your going to be using a cheap low ish flow pump. Its not going to work because of the restriction of the H50's parts.


What is considered a low flow pump? Just wondering?
Andrew


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mayford5*


What is considered a low flow pump? Just wondering?
Andrew


300-400 LPH. Your problem will be that the restriction from the H50's parts will make the flow mostly all go down the GPU tubes as they will provide less restriction. Water takes the easiest path possible. FYI, a high flow pump will move 900+ LPH. The pump I use moves 950 LPH.


----------



## mayford5

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
300-400 LPH. Your problem will be that the restriction from the H50's parts will make the flow mostly all go down the GPU tubes as they will provide less restriction. Water takes the easiest path possible. FYI, a high flow pump will move 900+ LPH. The pump I use moves 950 LPH.

I think my pump is a 700Lph do you think that will work?
similar to this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/94...tl=g30c107s154 but 700


----------



## fssbzz

*my h50 set up







check it out. i know it is a repost but
















http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...just-pics.html*


----------



## PCSarge

just to make it clear i am infact a girl, my posts will now be in pink lettering from this day forward......

just because aqualoon asked so nicely.....


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
just to make it clear i am infact a girl, my posts will now be in pink lettering from this day forward......

just because aqualoon asked so nicely.....









I'm ginger...

Nice setup fssbzz!


----------



## PCSarge

lol i think killhouse found his calling lmao

edit: yes i know i fail...because this keyboard failed and didnt type the right letters... i hate hp...thier crappy keyboards mock me
oh and btw <---avatar pic ish me


----------



## elson

i5 750 owners, what fans do you use with your H50 and what are your 4.0GHz load temps like?

I need to know if I should get better fans or perhaps switch to intake


----------



## fssbzz

let me repost that fail.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


[coloe="magneta"] lol i think killhouse found his calling lmao[/color]


 lol


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *elson*


i5 750 owners, what fans do you use with your H50 and what are your 4.0GHz load temps like?

I need to know if I should get better fans or perhaps switch to intake


 well hi elson, your in my club as it seems, i have cooler master R4s at full speed push pull no shroud, thier 2000 rpm 90cfm 3.04mm static pressure, and they make very little noise...besides the sound of moving air, my prime 95 came out at about 45C, my linpack around 57C, and IBT on max came out at 65C, so unless you have crap fans, dont worry about it


----------



## PCSarge

i see willhemmens


----------



## elson

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


well hi elson, your in my club as it seems, i have cooler master R4s at full speed push pull no shroud, thier 2000 rpm 90cfm 3.04mm static pressure, and they make very little noise...besides the sound of moving air, my prime 95 came out at about 45C, my linpack around 57C, and IBT on max came out at 65C, so unless you have crap fans, dont worry about it


Those are good temps. Unfortunately I only have one good S-Flex (1900rpm) to push and I load at max 75C on IBT. Looks like I need some better fans =/


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mayford5*


I think my pump is a 700Lph do you think that will work?
similar to this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/94...tl=g30c107s154 but 700


 I still doubt it would work very well. You would be best to to a loop with the stock H50 parts are one for your GPU's.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


*my h50 set up







check it out. i know it is a repost but
















http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...just-pics.html*


Nice. Brings me back to how mine used to look.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


lol i think killhouse found his calling lmao

edit: yes i know i fail...because this keyboard failed and didnt type the right letters... i hate hp...thier crappy keyboards mock me
oh and btw <---avatar pic ish me


HP do fail. This Acer temp keyboards not bad though.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i see willhemmens










I see PCSarge.







How've you been?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


HP do fail. This Acer temp keyboards not bad though.

I see PCSarge.







How've you been?


good, and yeah, acer stuff isnt too bad, thier monitors are good bang/buck too

so how is silly willy







i just had to do that, it was so tempting


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


good, and yeah, acer stuff isnt too bad, thier monitors are good bang/buck too

so how is silly willy








i just had to do that, it was so tempting


haha, I'm good. I've been called many things by many people. Wee-am, Bill, Villham, Willy, the lot.

I'm alittle nervous as its my driving test tomorrow.









Edit: when you say "avatar pic ish me", do you mean this is me or this is kinda like me?


----------



## mayford5

Quote:



=Willhemmens;9343449]I still doubt it would work very well. You would be best to to a loop with the stock H50 parts are one for your GPU's.


What if I added one more pump of the same near the other end of the loop. I like this setup as each component has it's own water supply. I do not like the loops where both gpu's are cooled by the same line. Then you have a cool gpu and a gpu that is slightly higher temps. If another pump would work where would you put it in the loop?


----------



## Magus2727

IN a full water kit you can split the lines so each GPU is seeing "fresh" water but requires a higher flow pump so you can keep the flow the same. I dont think the H50 will provide any type of GPU cooling, the Radiator on water loops that use GPU cooling are usually a 240 or larger.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mayford5*


What if I added one more pump of the same near the other end of the loop. I like this setup as each component has it's own water supply. I do not like the loops where both gpu's are cooled by the same line. Then you have a cool gpu and a gpu that is slightly higher temps. If another pump would work where would you put it in the loop?


The water temperature after it comes out of a GPU water block will only be around 0.4-1'c warmer than when it when it went in. Also, if you think about it, if you split the flow in half, theres only half the amount of water going threw the blocks.

I'd use the H50 parts and save up for a waterblock for the CPU.

Then run the loop: Rad>CPU>(possible Rad)>GPU>GPU>Res>Pump>Rad

Notice that even people with highly overclocked i7's and super highend cards run their loops like that.


----------



## mayford5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


IN a full water kit you can split the lines so each GPU is seeing "fresh" water but requires a higher flow pump so you can keep the flow the same. I dont think the H50 will provide any type of GPU cooling, the Radiator on water loops that use GPU cooling are usually a 240 or larger.


Yes, I bought a Black Ice GT Stealth 240 X-Flow Radiator for the Gpu's alone in addition to using the h50 rad for just the cpu. So do you think one more pump in the loop somewhere would be work though?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


haha, I'm good. I've been called many things by many people. Wee-am, Bill, Villham, Willy, the lot.

I'm alittle nervous as its my driving test tomorrow.









Edit: when you say "avatar pic ish me", do you mean this is me or this is kinda like me?


i mean it physically is me, and good luck, i've been there, just make like theres noone in the car, and your head is giving you instructions


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mayford5*


Yes, I bought a Black Ice GT Stealth 240 X-Flow Radiator for the Gpu's alone in addition to using the h50 rad for just the cpu. So do you think one more pump in the loop somewhere would be work though?


Not really. Because niether of the two parts of the H50, the Rad and block are made for anywhere near 700 LPH. More like 100 tops. They are both very high restriction. Try blowing air though the Rad or block and you will see what I mean.


----------



## Magus2727

I am not sure... I have been wanting to get into water cooling and the H50 is as far as I have gone, but have done a lot of reading... not to much hands on experience.

Me personally as I am thinking of it now would ditch the H50, get and make it so I have a high flow pump, t off the CPU and the GPUs to be separate and then run the GPU's like Willhemmens said and then recombine then and run the through the rad.

I would have full shrouds on both sides with a good amount of air flow... that should provide sufficient cooling... if not bump up to a 360 Rad or double stack two 240's and keep the two isolated untill after the Rad and recombine them...

but take my comments knowing I have no real experience just some school in fluid/thermal dynamics and reading a fair amount on the forum...


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i mean it physically is me, and good luck, i've been there, just make like theres noone in the car, and your head is giving you instructions










What no more Pink? I am not sure of gender any more...


----------



## fssbzz

pink = disgusting


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


What no more Pink? I am not sure of gender any more...


 you mean i forgot, thanks, not quite used to doing colors yet


----------



## un1b4ll

Alright Guys what do you think of this? I'm toying around with the idea of murderalizing two H50s in the name of Science.

I've got a TEC sitting around that I want to utilize in cooling, but it's not powerful enough to cool directly. I would love to use it just to remove about 45-50w of heat from a loop, so tell me what you guys think:

CPU > Rad1 > Rad 2 > (optional reservoir) > H50 pump/block mounted to the cold side of TEC > CPU.

Of course I don't expect sub zero temps or anything like that, but I do think it'd help to chill the water before it hits the CPU.

Thoughts?


----------



## mayford5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


The water temperature after it comes out of a GPU water block will only be around 0.4-1'c warmer than when it when it went in. Also, if you think about it, if you split the flow in half, theres only half the amount of water going threw the blocks.

I'd use the H50 parts and save up for a waterblock for the CPU.

Then run the loop: Rad>CPU>(possible Rad)>GPU>GPU>Res>Pump>Rad

Notice that even people with highly overclocked i7's and super highend cards run their loops like that.


Is this do to the water's properties for thermoconductivity or is something you have measured. Of the three setups I have seen all had an elevated temp on the second card more than the .4-1c that you have described. Now granted there are many things that could have played a role such as poor TIM applications, bad card, and the fact that they were different setups and different hardware etc.. but both were relativly warmer than the first. It seemed to me that the water moving through the second lost some potential for cooling. The energy transferred doesn't get released therefore some heat transfer can occur from the water to the block itself in reverse to what is desired. Inherantly this raises gpu temps because the cooling properties of the water have been changed. However if you follow the rules of thermoconductivity energy will always heat up a cooler object. It never flows from cold to hot(Relatively speaking of course) always hot to cold. So if the GPU block has a higher temperature(which it should because you have a constant flow of water) it would never transfer backwards. (Sorry just talking this out amongst myselves.)









I may be wrong and I must take your word as I have not done any testing nor do I have any experience with GPU water cooling. You seem to be very knowledgable so I will try the two seperate loops. Do you suggest two completely seperate or could I use a y splitter for cpu and gpu. This would also shorten my run of tubing so the pump would be more efficient.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *un1b4ll*


Alright Guys what do you think of this? I'm toying around with the idea of murderalizing two H50s in the name of Science.

I've got a TEC sitting around that I want to utilize in cooling, but it's not powerful enough to cool directly. I would love to use it just to remove about 45-50w of heat from a loop, so tell me what you guys think:

CPU > Rad1 > Rad 2 > (optional reservoir) > H50 pump/block mounted to the cold side of TEC > CPU.

Of course I don't expect sub zero temps or anything like that, but I do think it'd help to chill the water before it hits the CPU.

Thoughts?


Don't you still need some sort of heat removal on the hot side? Dont think the H50 base would be the best way to cool the loop... its worth a shot though... water can absorb heat lot better then cold.


----------



## mayford5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Not really. Because niether of the two parts of the H50, the Rad and block are made for anywhere near 700 LPH. More like 100 tops. They are both very high restriction. Try blowing air though the Rad or block and you will see what I mean.


I didn't think about it that way. The restriction from the 1/4" setup is the limiting factor not to mention the pump parts from the h50.


----------



## un1b4ll

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Don't you still need some sort of heat removal on the hot side? Dont think the H50 base would be the best way to cool the loop... its worth a shot though... water can absorb heat lot better then cold.


Got that handled, check out this grundle heatsync

http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/329/photo5om.jpg


----------



## Carfanatic

Anyone had/heard the differences in the Cooler Master R4 2000 RPM 90 CFM fan vs a Scythe GentleTyphoon 1850 RPM 58 CFM fan and have some comments on which is quieter? Or if they are close in sound levels I would take it the CM would be the way to go?

One more question the Cooler Master R4's I see all but the smoke one have LED's is it hard to disable them?


----------



## Michael Cox

LOL... Why do I get the felling PCSarge is setting us up? I just know in a weeks time he will put up a real picture of himself that is a bit over weight in the basement with a large cherry slurpee and Cheetos all over the place?


----------



## garnet1985

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Yeah, just make sure you get rid of that fold in the pipe. It's probably restricted water flow a lot and bad for the health of the unit.

Got the kink out and let it run for a little while idled to see if there was any difference and didn't even reduce it by a degree. I sent a support ticket into Corsair and they suggest I RMA the thing for a faulty pump .... but decided to go with a Thermalright Venomous to go back to air cooling since we had one sitting at work that I could pickup on the spot.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Michael Cox* 
LOL... Why do I get the felling PCSarge is setting us up? I just know in a weeks time he will put up a real picture of himself that is a bit over weight in the basement with a large cherry slurpee and Cheetos all over the place?









I'm getting the same feeling. That's the second hot avatar pic I've seen for PC Sarge. The first had to be removed because it was a bit too much. I'm thinking 250-300 lbs, extra large cherry slurpee and a half empty box of twinkies.


----------



## Michael Cox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


I'm getting the same feeling. That's the second hot avatar pic I've seen for PC Sarge. The first had to be removed because it was a bit too much. I'm thinking 250-300 lbs, extra large cherry slurpee and a half empty box of twinkies.










LMAO! Ok but I don't think it will be Twinkies. Now I'm feeling HoHo's


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


I'm getting the same feeling. That's the second hot avatar pic I've seen for PC Sarge. The first had to be removed because it was a bit too much. I'm thinking 250-300 lbs, extra large cherry slurpee and a half empty box of twinkies.










lmao. that's what i think too


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Michael Cox*


LOL... Why do I get the felling PCSarge is setting us up? I just know in a weeks time he will put up a real picture of himself that is a bit over weight in the basement with a large cherry slurpee and Cheetos all over the place?










 how dare you >.> and yes, the first was too much, admins dont appreciate bikinis obviously.....same old me....different clothes and hair do....lol

EDIT:i remember a larry the cable guy line that reminds me of that..which make this more of a joke, it is as follows: "a commercial came on t.v last night, and the man said "are you sitting in a bean bag chair naked eating cheetos............and i looked down and went god damn you old man stop staring at me through binoculars"


----------



## Michael Cox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


how dare you >.> and yes, the first was too much, admins dont appreciate bikinis obviously.....same old me....different clothes and hair do....lol


LOL... Well if I'm wrong I'll say sorry. But, if I'm right and you get everyone just remember I was on to you first. LOL


----------



## un1b4ll

There are no girls on the internet. Proven fact.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *un1b4ll*


There are no girls on the internet. Proven fact.


 just like they said no men wear tight short shorts, and yet your avatar is living proof of such a fact


----------



## Michael Cox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *un1b4ll*


There are no girls on the internet. Proven fact.


Yeah! What Uniball said...


----------



## bobbyt2012

I noticed that they have these at bestbuy. Would an H50 perform better than my Sunbeam CCF 120mm? I idle around 30C on 1.51v 4Ghz.


----------



## elson

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bobbyt2012*


I noticed that they have these at bestbuy. Would an H50 perform better than my Sunbeam CCF 120mm? I idle around 30C on 1.51v 4Ghz.


Idle doesn't matter what are your load temps?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
lol i think killhouse found his calling lmao

edit: yes i know i fail...because this keyboard failed and didnt type the right letters... i hate hp...thier crappy keyboards mock me
oh and btw <---avatar pic ish me


If its possible, im more of a ginger than you are a girl! Therefore I have absolute right to colour my font too! (p.s. Picture ginger affro)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
haha, I'm good. I've been called many things by many people. Wee-am, Bill, Villham, Willy, the lot.

I'm alittle nervous as its my driving test tomorrow.









Edit: when you say "avatar pic ish me", do you mean this is me or this is kinda like me?

Good luck, I wrote my car off the road 12 hours before my 2nd test; the first test was cancelled mid-test because the car broke down (I didnt pass OR fail!). I passed the 2nd time btw, in a car I hadnt driven before, lol.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *garnet1985* 
Got the kink out and let it run for a little while idled to see if there was any difference and didn't even reduce it by a degree. I sent a support ticket into Corsair and they suggest I RMA the thing for a faulty pump .... but decided to go with a Thermalright Venomous to go back to air cooling since we had one sitting at work that I could pickup on the spot.









I'm sorry to hear this, sounds like you got a bad unit - these things happen. Hope the Venemous X treats you better









Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
how dare you >.> and yes, the first was too much, admins dont appreciate bikinis obviously.....same old me....different clothes and hair do....lol

EDIT:i remember a larry the cable guy line that reminds me of that..which make this more of a joke, it is as follows: "a commercial came on t.v last night, and the man said "are you sitting in a bean bag chair naked eating cheetos............and i looked down and went god damn you old man stop staring at me through binoculars"

Just wanted to make a big "LOL" at this whole thread







Dangerously offtopic but hilarious all-the-same!


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *un1b4ll* 
There are no girls on the internet. Proven fact.

You're dumb dude. There are tons of chicks who use the internet, even build custom PC too. I seen quite many gamer girls who love to build pc and game and they DO get out too. Get over it. Girls are just smart as us dudes. I think it's sexy they can do this too. Nothing wrong with it. You're just in denial or maybe you play on the other team? EWW.. just my 2 cent.


----------



## damric

I just installed mine today. I must say I am content with my new temperatures. I dropped my idle temps some, and my load temps down quite a bit. I can actually do 4GHZ stable now without hitting over 62C in Prime95 large fft's. Before I was like 70C with my good air cooler!

Here is some pics while work in progress


















How many of you had to rig your H50 with zip tie wraps?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Michael Cox* 
Yeah! What Uniball said...

I would add that even if there were, they most certainly wouldn't be hanging around an H50 owners club thread discussing H50 mods and tweaks to improve their computers temperature







that would of course be impossible as we all know. Note that I've mentioned the H50 in this comment so I'm still on topic for this thread.









P.S. I'm agreeing with the Hohos


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
You're dumb dude. There are tons of chicks who use the internet, even build custom PC too. I seen quite many gamer girls who love to build pc and game and they DO get out too. Get over it. Girls are just smart as us dudes. I think it's sexy they can do this too. Nothing wrong with it. You're just in denial or maybe you play on the other team? EWW.. just my 2 cent.

Someone link a definition of sarcasm please?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *damric* 
I just installed mine today. I must say I am content with my new temperatures. I dropped my idle temps some, and my load temps down quite a bit. I can actually do 4GHZ stable now without hitting over 62C in Prime95 large fft's. Before I was like 70C with my good air cooler!

Here is some pics while work in progress








How many of you had to rig your H50 with zip tie wraps?


Ouch 70C pre-H50! Thats pretty dangerous for an AMD. Looks like a good setup now though







Zip ties are good for extra fans, indeed.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
I would add that even if there were, they most certainly wouldn't be hanging around an H50 owners club thread discussing H50 mods and tweaks to improve their computers temperature







that would of course be impossible as we all know. Note that I've mentioned the H50 in this comment so I'm still on topic for this thread.









P.S. I'm agreeing with the Hohos









Personally I picture a table full of half-finished cream pies. The TV remote buried somewhere deep underneath the empty tins, and Xbox controllers fighting for a spot on the sofa amongst rolls of flab...
(not really PCSarge







)


----------



## kcuestag

I would say those temps are too high for your AMD.

Just so you know max temps recommended by AMD are 62ÂºC, after that you might kill your CPU.

I am running my 965 Black Edition C3 @ 4GHz with 1.55v and I max hit 51ÂºC with Prime95 after few hours.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
I would say those temps are too high for your AMD.

Just so you know max temps recommended by AMD are 62ÂºC, after that you might kill your CPU.

I am running my 965 Black Edition C3 @ 4GHz with 1.55v and I max hit 51ÂºC with Prime95 after few hours.

Impressive, I should try this. Im not very adept at overclocking yet - the highest stable i could get was 3.8 Ghz.

Which fans are you using in push/pull?


----------



## Michael Cox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Ouch 70C pre-H50! Thats pretty dangerous for an AMD. Looks like a good setup now though







Zip ties are good for extra fans, indeed.

Personally I picture a table full of half-finished cream pies. The TV remote buried somewhere deep underneath the empty tins, and Xbox controllers fighting for a spot on the sofa amongst rolls of flab...
(not really PCSarge







)















































Sorry I got us off topic but I just couldn't help myself.

Ok







back on topic now.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


I would say those temps are too high for your AMD.

Just so you know max temps recommended by AMD are 62ÂºC, after that you might kill your CPU.

I am running my 965 Black Edition C3 @ 4GHz with 1.55v and I max hit 51ÂºC with Prime95 after few hours.



Actually i think that guy isn't reading his temps correctly

As for me since I've done so much overclocking with my 965(my max was 4.21Ghz stable for a few weeks were hitting max load of 54c - 56c)... I'm with you that its 62c the MAX it can handle... I find its impossible the Temps he's stating 70c's, Everytime on my CPU when it goes over 60c the system auto shuts down.

No, clue if you have ever hit on your 965 over 60c to see if it happens something similar to mines.... or maybe its my motherboard that auto protects when getting that hot on the cpu.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Impressive, I should try this. Im not very adept at overclocking yet - the highest stable i could get was 3.8 Ghz.

Which fans are you using in push/pull?


hey dude... I've posted so many times... my overclocking result on this H50 thread why didn't you ever test the settings I had LOL I still have my CPU-Z on my Signature here of when I had it stable before (that was until my PSU got crippled)


----------



## damric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


Actually i think that guy isn't reading his temps correctly

As for me since I've done so much overclocking with my 965(my max was 4.21Ghz stable for a few weeks were hitting max load of 54c - 56c)... I'm with you that its 62c the MAX it can handle... I find its impossible the Temps he's stating 70c's, Everytime on my CPU when it goes over 60c the system auto shuts down.

No, clue if you have ever hit on your 965 over 60c to see if it happens something similar to mines.... or maybe its my motherboard that auto protects when getting that hot on the cpu.


Actually the 74C was when I was at 4100MHZ. I had disabled the auto-shutdown. Since my air cooler was saturated with heat I had to back down to 3800 to keep reasonable temps (63C prime95). Now with the H50 I can go back up to 4000MHZ no problem. You guys really afraid of pushing your temps







I had my phenom 1 at 90C at one point while testing. Limits are meant to be broken.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Anyone had/heard the differences in the Cooler Master R4 2000 RPM 90 CFM fan vs a Scythe GentleTyphoon 1850 RPM 58 CFM fan and have some comments on which is quieter? Or if they are close in sound levels I would take it the CM would be the way to go?

One more question the Cooler Master R4's I see all but the smoke one have LED's is it hard to disable them?


Sorry to quote myself just looking for some insight on fans....


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


hey dude... I've posted so many times... my overclocking result on this H50 thread why didn't you ever test the settings I had LOL I still have my CPU-Z on my Signature here of when I had it stable before (that was until my PSU got crippled)


Lol, I dont really have the need to overclock at the moment tbh. Going for silence so I can fold through the night







But yes, I've seen your overclock thread.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *damric*


Actually the 74C was when I was at 4100MHZ. I had disabled the auto-shutdown. Since my air cooler was saturated with heat I had to back down to 3800 to keep reasonable temps (63C prime95). Now with the H50 I can go back up to 4000MHZ no problem. You guys really afraid of pushing your temps







I had my phenom 1 at 90C at one point while testing. Limits are meant to be broken.


My MOBO doesn't have any features of auto shut down... I just said.. probably my mobo auto protects it self.. in other words I'm assuming of my own board.

And its not US.. its AMD who clearly STATES never to have your CPU over 62c, we aren't Intel CPU's that is different.. they get as hot as 80's, 90's.. etc.. by the way... AMD Phenom I's are not the same as Phenom II

If you want more life to your AMD CPU... you should have it as cool around or under 50c... remember oveclocking & more heat causes to shorten the life of the CPU


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jyve*


Someone link a definition of sarcasm please?


Sorry but no one likes you







You just joined? Lol. I find your rebuttal not good enough and yes there is no link for it







It's true anyways chicks do hang around here too. Don't believe me? Get out more.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Sorry to quote myself just looking for some insight on fans....


well 1 of them has more RPM's & CFM ... the other has less... lol

But I'm no fan expert... there is a complete Fan's testings thread that helps allot on those specifics.... can't remember were its posted here.

hey I wanted to ask you... what Thermal Paste are you using? that also matters to lower your temps


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


well 1 of them has more RPM's & CFM ... the other has less... lol

But I'm no fan expert... there is a complete Fan's testings thread that helps allot on those specifics.... can't remember were its posted here.


I am using AS5 TIM

Ya I looked around for some posts about the individual fans Sethy666 said to post if I had questions about individual fans but heard nada so far from anyone.

The GentleTyphoon is listed at 28dba while the CM R4 is listed as 19db just seemed odd to me that CM R4 is almost double the CFM but a lot quieter.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I am using AS5 TIM

Ya I looked around for some posts about the individual fans Sethy666 said to post if I had questions about individual fans but heard nada so far from anyone.

The GentleTyphoon is listed at 29dba while the CM R4 is listed as 19db just seemed odd to me that CM R4 is almost double the CFM but a lot quieter.


heheeh right now you mentioning those details of *db... I also find that pretty odd... maybe they aren't correct or probably *special fans

You could probably look on Google there are videos of people testing many different fans.. showing you how its the sound (from lowest to max speed)

As for TIM... on my case Shin-Etsu the one that actually comes with the H50, for me it actually lowered the temps instantly... applying newly that same original TIM.... no clue why.. I'm guessing what comes from factory distribution turns old etc(Waiting on those H50 boxes many months before its distributed)... But I did tests with AC5, MX3 & Shin Etsu... for me *Etsu again applied made it better. But anyways.... don't change the AC5... lets see what happens when you get the new fans - I'm certain it will be better than what you currently are experiencing.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Ouch 70C pre-H50! Thats pretty dangerous for an AMD. Looks like a good setup now though







Zip ties are good for extra fans, indeed.

Personally I picture a table full of half-finished cream pies. The TV remote buried somewhere deep underneath the empty tins, and Xbox controllers fighting for a spot on the sofa amongst rolls of flab...
(not really PCSarge







)


 well as it is, you guys are on this thread more than i am, i do have a life...i bet half you still live in mommys basement at age 30 >.>
and the H50 is probably what you married because you couldnt live without it

and YES! dem's fightin' words


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


heheeh right now you mentioning those details of *db... I also find that pretty odd... maybe they aren't correct or probably *special fans

You could probably look on Google there are videos of people testing many different fans.. showing you how its the sound (from lowest to max speed)


The R4's are NOT 19db. They are closer to 30 than 20 at full speed. I don't care for them as rad fans, cheap sleeve and such. Dual bearings are the only way to roll. They are pretty, that's all they've got going for them. On a side note, I've owned all three colors


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


heheeh right now you mentioning those details of *db... I also find that pretty odd... maybe they aren't correct or probably *special fans

You could probably look on Google there are videos of people testing many different fans.. showing you how its the sound (from lowest to max speed)


Ya though that is very subjective. Unless I found a single person using the same exact camera/mic/distances it would be hard to make a valid comparison.

That's why I figured with all the experts on here someone had to use both the fans and have some insight.


----------



## kpopsaranghae

hmm, im wondering, how much of a difference in temps does the res mod make for the h50?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *staryoshi*


The R4's are NOT 19db. They are closer to 30 than 20 at full speed. I don't care for them as rad fans, cheap sleeve and such. Dual bearings are the only way to roll. They are pretty, that's all they've got going for them. On a side note, I've owned all three colors










So you think the Scythe GentleTyphoon 1850 RPM are a good choice?


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


So you think the Scythe GentleTyphoon 1850 RPM are a good choice?


They aren't as quiet as I prefer, but it's a different kind of noise. They are pure win though when it comes to pushing/pulling air. I can make fans spin behind one from the suction force through two fan shrouds







(From playin' with it)


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *staryoshi*


They aren't as quiet as I prefer, but it's a different kind of noise. They are pure win though when it comes to pushing/pulling air. I can make fans spin behind one from the suction force through two fan shrouds







(From playin' with it)


That's good to hear hopefully I can go back to my normal OC after I get them. Right now I am at lowered Vcore and stock cause the Akasa Apache are great at moving air but not through a radiator it seems. I have P/P setup with 2x25mm fan shrouds.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kpopsaranghae*


hmm, im wondering, how much of a difference in temps does the res mod make for the h50?


I did see a few that actually improved temps.... wanna do that.. but I prefer to first to buy an extra H50 as for safety... before I kill my own by *modding it


----------



## kpopsaranghae

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


I did see a few that actually improved temps.... wanna do that.. but I prefer to first to buy an extra H50 as for safety... before I kill my own by *modding it


well do u know how much of an improvement? like any numbers? because it will probably be at least 50 bucks for the res, tubing, thermal coolant, and then some push,pull fans for my h50 since the stock fan isnt that good, so i want to see if it is worth the money :]


----------



## damric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


My MOBO doesn't have any features of auto shut down... I just said.. probably my mobo auto protects it self.. in other words I'm assuming of my own board.

And its not US.. its AMD who clearly STATES never to have your CPU over 62c, we aren't Intel CPU's that is different.. they get as hot as 80's, 90's.. etc.. by the way... AMD Phenom I's are not the same as Phenom II

If you want more life to your AMD CPU... you should have it as cool around or under 50c... remember oveclocking & more heat causes to shorten the life of the CPU


Overclocking can also shorten the life of CPU and components, but what fun is that? Don't get your panties in a wad because I play out of factory specs.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kpopsaranghae*


well do u know how much of an improvement? like any numbers? because it will probably be at least 50 bucks for the res, tubing, thermal coolant, and then some push,pull fans for my h50 since the stock fan isnt that good, so i want to see if it is worth the money :]


I think it was around 10c lower... something like that or more... they keep talking here on this thread... one of them would probably correct me.. and say what improvement they got(they'll also recommend you everything you need to buy exactly).


----------



## kpopsaranghae

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


I think it was around 10c lower... something like that or more... they keep talking here on this thread... one of them would probably correct me.. and say what improvement they got(they'll also recommend you everything you need to buy exactly).


lol ok thanks, i think i will pm the guy who made the guide


----------



## kpopsaranghae

Quote:



Originally Posted by *damric*


Actually the 74C was when I was at 4100MHZ. I had disabled the auto-shutdown. Since my air cooler was saturated with heat I had to back down to 3800 to keep reasonable temps (63C prime95). Now with the H50 I can go back up to 4000MHZ no problem. You guys really afraid of pushing your temps







I had my phenom 1 at 90C at one point while testing. Limits are meant to be broken.


woah ur phenom ii can actually stay stable @ 63 C  how long did u run the test for. Because i remember when i had my phenom ii x4 925 @ 3.5 ghz 1.41 V it would be stable for like 2 hours but then crash because it got to above 55 C. And then when i got my h50, i could actually lower the voltage and i was still able to run prime for like 5 hours. So yeah, AMD chips like it coooolllllddddd


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *damric*


Overclocking can also shorten the life of CPU and components, but what fun is that? Don't get your panties in a wad because I play out of factory specs.


congrats


----------



## ted86

I just bought an H50 to replace my Arctic Cooling Freezer 64 Pro and temps are definitely noticeably lower.

My cpu temps are definitely lower at idle (33-34 degrees) but I feel that's still a little high when I'm comparing to other people.

My MB temps stay pretty consistent at 38 degrees.

Any thoughts?


----------



## kpopsaranghae

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ted86*


I just bought an H50 to replace my Arctic Cooling Freezer 64 Pro and temps are definitely noticeably lower.

My cpu temps are definitely lower at idle (33-34 degrees) but I feel that's still a little high when I'm comparing to other people.

My MB temps stay pretty consistent at 38 degrees.

Any thoughts?


wow for that cpu that is definitely a really high idle O.O i mean when i had my h50 on my phenom ii x4 925 it idled at 26-28 C. U should check ur ambients and make sure the airflow in ur case is good.


----------



## Luass Hole

KpopsarganaBlah - On my i7 the temps dropped 2c at load with the res mod







. Highest core at 72c 1.278 vcore. How its possible to lower temps by 10c just by adding a little more water....I'll never know. I guess its the same concept as PcSarge's Avatar? Where's The Proof









-Thanks to Whoever popped my Rep cherry


----------



## kpopsaranghae

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Luass Hole* 
KpopsarganaBlah - On my i7 the temps dropped 2c at load with the res mod







. Highest core at 72c 1.278 vcore. How its possible to lower temps by 10c just by adding a little more water....I'll never know. I guess its the same concept as PcSarge's Avatar? Where's The Proof









-Thanks to Whoever popped my Rep cherry









oh wow... then that certainly would not be worth 50 bucks LOL. and also, u could have at least spelled my SN (ign, username, w.e u want to call it) right... i mean its not like ur required to say it, just type the letters. even if u spelled it wrong its better than putting "blah" at the end. if u could -rep in this forum, which u should be able to, i would -rep u for that because that is really disrespectful... i mean its like when ppl make fun of foreign kids, totally immature -.-


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Sorry to quote myself just looking for some insight on fans....


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
I am using AS5 TIM

Ya I looked around for some posts about the individual fans Sethy666 said to post if I had questions about individual fans but heard nada so far from anyone.

The GentleTyphoon is listed at 28dba while the CM R4 is listed as 19db just seemed odd to me that CM R4 is almost double the CFM but a lot quieter.

They perform virtually identically. GT is quieter - R4 is spec'ed at the lowest possible fan speed. GT is 10x better quality. Tried many fans and keep coming back to the GTs.


----------



## Luass Hole

sorry if you took that as a sign of disrespect.....couldn't remember how to spell the last part. I don't know how you relate that to making fun of foreign children. My bad for not realizing kpop stood for korean pop music......guess i should have googld your name first to make sure i wasn't insulting you. Typical American I am








YouTube- HOT K-POP 2009 ~ special mashup pt. I ~ (23 songs in one)


----------



## ecaftermath

How's my temp? 37C idle, 71C load on PRIME95 BLEND. Ambient is 21C
Not so much as impressed since it's about the same or a bit more than my old TRUE.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ted86*


I just bought an H50 to replace my Arctic Cooling Freezer 64 Pro and temps are definitely noticeably lower.

My cpu temps are definitely lower at idle (33-34 degrees) but I feel that's still a little high when I'm comparing to other people.

My MB temps stay pretty consistent at 38 degrees.

Any thoughts?


It's probably just that your ambients are higher, or the intake air for your H50 is being heated up by your graphics cards.


----------



## Luass Hole

Sounds about right for an H50 IMO. My idle is only 28-29 but load is 72


----------



## ted86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kpopsaranghae*


wow for that cpu that is definitely a really high idle O.O i mean when i had my h50 on my phenom ii x4 925 it idled at 26-28 C. U should check ur ambients and make sure the airflow in ur case is good.


ya i'm pretty sure it's just my ambient is pretty high

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


It's probably just that your ambients are higher, or the intake air for your H50 is being heated up by your graphics cards.










ya my gpu gets pretty hot


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I am using AS5 TIM

Ya I looked around for some posts about the individual fans Sethy666 said to post if I had questions about individual fans but heard nada so far from anyone.

The GentleTyphoon is listed at 28dba while the CM R4 is listed as 19db just seemed odd to me that CM R4 is almost double the CFM but a lot quieter.


I hope you got my reply PM. Sorry if you dont get a quick response... this thread moves faster than the road runner with gastro!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*

oh and btw <---avatar pic ish me


Tell me PCSarge, How many friendship requests have you had in the last few hours?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
I hope you got my reply PM. Sorry if you dont get a quick response... this thread moves faster than the road runner with gastro!


I did thanks Sethy and everyone that responded I was worried that the GT's where going to be another bad fan choice hopefully they aren't and I can bring my temps back down after receiving them.

The Akasa Apache will end up being nice replacement case fans they move a lot of air compared to my stock ones and then I will use the stock ones to help keep my GPU's cooler.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
I did thanks Sethy and everyone that responded I was worried that the GT's where going to be another bad fan choice hopefully they aren't and I can bring my temps back down after receiving them.

Just be aware that its going to be a compromise between noise and cooling power. I think Killhouse mentioned that in a previous post.


----------



## PCSarge

im bored, still waiting for my folding postbit, and my CC participant badge.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Just be aware that its going to be a compromise between noise and cooling power. I think Killhouse mentioned that in a previous post.

Just having the H50 was a big improvement for me over stock. Though the stock 965 cooler wasn't bad it was loud for sure when it sped up. The only thing that use to make noise in my computer after getting the H50 was my power supply fan. When I got the Akasa Apache fans I took the stock H50 Corsair fan and took out the power supply fan and used that fan. Since then it has been totally silent except my GPU fans when playing something graphic intensive. When I use my computer for things like watching Hulu, Netflix or other movies online there is no noise at all which is what I wanted. Hopefully the GT's aren't too much louder or I might have to add something else like a fan controller to keep the sound down for HTPC activities.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
im bored, still waiting for my folding postbit, and my CC participant badge.

Hey PC Sarge, (nice Avatar)









Did you complete the instructions in this post?

http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...here-read.html

Have you PMed Zodac or mortimersnerd?

You will need to supply proof of folding over the CC...

http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...nge-badge.html

Hope this helps









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*
Just having the H50 was a big improvement for me over stock. Though the stock 965 cooler wasn't bad it was loud for sure when it sped up. The only thing that use to make noise in my computer after getting the H50 was my power supply fan. When I got the Akasa Apache fans I took the stock H50 Corsair fan and took out the power supply fan and used that fan. Since then it has been totally silent except my GPU fans when playing something graphic intensive. When I use my computer for things like watching Hulu, Netflix or other movies online there is no noise at all which is what I wanted. Hopefully the GT's aren't too much louder or I might have to add something else like a fan controller to keep the sound down for HTPC activities.

A fan controller is always a good thing... what did you have in mind?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
im bored, still waiting for my folding postbit, and my CC participant badge.

Do you have a dedicated computer for folding or only one computer?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


A fan controller is always a good thing... what did you have in mind?












http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27886


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Do you have a dedicated computer for folding or only one computer?


i dedicated my old E7400 C2D + geforce 9600GSO pc to folding 24/7

this rig folds while im at work, a nice 12.7-13.5k ppd just from the cpu







, i dont torture this one, it goes nighty night when i go to bed


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Luass Hole*


KpopsarganaBlah - On my i7 the temps dropped 2c at load with the res mod







. Highest core at 72c 1.278 vcore. How its possible to lower temps by 10c just by adding a little more water....I'll never know. I guess its the same concept as PcSarge's Avatar? Where's The Proof









-Thanks to Whoever popped my Rep cherry










if you read this "thread" by sexybastard: http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...adiator-3.html

You will see about 8c drop in one his posts when doing some testings with his res mod


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Hey PC Sarge, (nice Avatar)









Did you complete the instructions in this post?

http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...here-read.html

Have you PMed Zodac or mortimersnerd?

You will need to supply proof of folding over the CC...

http://www.overclock.net/overclock-n...nge-badge.html

Hope this helps










did it all already and thanks, for how many people cant take that i am a girl on this forum, its kinda pathetic, thanks for the compliment sethy









EDIT: still waiting for windows to finish making my backup on my backup drive, when its done im going to bed


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


Signature: Rad Suspended in 5.25 Drive Bays


Hheehe I just realized you had your rad on the Front bay... hehe I did as well too... mine looks much more ghetto than yours.. but well this was on my old crappy case

Pic 1
Pic 2

Messiest Cables Case ever LOL


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


Hheehe I just realized you had your rad on the Front bay... hehe I did as well too... mine looks much more ghetto than yours.. but well this was on my old crappy case

Pic 1
Pic 2

Messiest Cables Case ever LOL


 yeah, its been hanging in there quite a while now, i recently dusted the rad out i only hit 65C on 15 passes of IBT, 55C while folding or playing a cpu-intensive game, and yeah, i went cable tie crazy , and then got a modular psu....


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


Hheehe I just realized you had your rad on the Front bay... hehe I did as well too... mine looks much more ghetto than yours.. but well this was on my old crappy case

Pic 1
Pic 2

Messiest Cables Case ever LOL


Have mine in my drive bay as well worked on it day before yesterday. Still need to work on my support brackets so they don't block the fans the little bit that they do now but works fine for now. Worked on my cable management a lot too when working on my H50 setup did about the best I can with my case.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Have mine in my drive bay as well worked on it day before yesterday. Still need to work on my support brackets so they don't block the fans the little bit that they do now but works fine for now. Worked on my cable management a lot too when working on my H50 setup did about the best I can with my case.





























 thats putting alot of pressure on 2 screws...you should cable tie the back end of that to the drive bays nice and tight

EDIT: and i notice its exhausting out the front of the case? LOL?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


as for how many people cant take that i am a girl on this forum, its kinda pathetic, thanks for the compliment sethy










LOL,,, dont worry about it. Its their problem, not yours.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


LOL,,, dont worry about it. Its their problem, not yours.


 yeah, boys will be boys, that will never change


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


did it all already and thanks, for how many people cant take that i am a girl on this forum, its kinda pathetic, thanks for the compliment sethy














is just a girl. nothing special. my girlfriend like to surf on OCN too.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


thats putting alot of pressure on 2 screws...you should cable tie the back end of that to the drive bays nice and tight

EDIT: and i notice its exhausting out the front of the case? LOL?


The front brackets are screwed right into the metal frame of the case so it shouldn't go anywhere. I am going to get 4 more screws though to make sure it is in there good only $1.08 but haven't had time to stop to the hardware store. I was originally only going to have one fan shroud but had an idea to move it to the front which gave me the room for two shrouds so didn't have enough of the longer screws.

I have it venting out the front cause when I had it going the opposite it made my GPU fans scream all the time. Either way it never made even a 1 C difference at idle or load.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Have mine in my drive bay as well worked on it day before yesterday. Still need to work on my support brackets so they don't block the fans the little bit that they do now but works fine for now. Worked on my cable management a lot too when working on my H50 setup did about the best I can with my case.

Yeah I saw yours I like it allot... because it looks more *real placement.. compared to Ties. I'm kinda thinking to place it there again as well on the new case... since having it the regular (back case placement) is currently not letting me place an extra 120mm case fan to face the CPU area... that extra 120mm fan will lower my temp around -2c

Plus it will lower more as well... because since i won't have the Rad on the back of the Case.. I can add another 120mm fan in the back Pulling cold air in.
Here is an Example to the new idea for my CM590 case:









Not sure if this is any good ventilation positioning.. any suggestions for change?
I stopped using the DVD Drive.. so I'll use the extra space to mount 3 x 120mm fans on the front


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
Yeah I saw yours I like it allot... because it looks more *real placement.. compared to Ties. I'm kinda thinking to place it there again as well on the new case... since having it the regular (back case placement) is currently not letting me place an extra 120mm case fan to face the CPU area... that extra 120mm fan will lower my temp around -2c

Plus it will lower more as well... because since i won't have the Rad on the back of the Case.. I can add another 120mm fan in the back Pulling cold air in.
Here is an Example to the new idea for my CM590 case:









Not sure if this is any good ventilation positioning.. any suggestions for change?
I stopped using the DVD Drive.. so I'll use the extra space to mount 3 x 120mm fans on the front

I always thought the top fans should be exhausting myself since hot air rises and depends on the case I at least have my side fan exhausting too.

Others should have more insight on the matter than I do though.


----------



## GoTMaXPoWeR

Fans on the top and on the rear of the case should be exhausting to create a path of air from the front to the back and exhaust hot rising air from any of the components.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GoTMaXPoWeR* 
Fans on the top and on the rear of the case should be exhausting to create a path of air from the front to the back and exhaust hot rising air from any of the components.

Agreed.

Current series of GPUs are the main culprit of case heat these days, even if they have their own vent system. This hot air needs a way to get out other than through your H50 rad


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GoTMaXPoWeR* 
Fans on the top and on the rear of the case should be exhausting to create a path of air from the front to the back and exhaust hot rising air from any of the components.

I will make teh change


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Agreed.

Current series of GPUs are the main culprit of case heat these days, even if they have their own vent system. This hot air needs a way to get out other than through your H50 rad









Well... case fan... from Side panel... the one on the GPU I can set it as Exhaust or maybe both as Exhaust pfff no clue...

also its not only the RAD as exhaust there will be another 120mm below the Rad as exhaust as well.... not sure of where the hard drives are(which has another 120mm).. would that be *Pull cold or Exhaust ?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Agreed.

Current series of GPUs are the main culprit of case heat these days, even if they have their own vent system. This hot air needs a way to get out other than through your H50 rad









Let me see what you all think about my setup then. I have a 120mm on top exhausting, 120mm in back exhausting, 220mm side fan exhausting, 120mm front connected to my HDD bay at the bottom of the front of my case blowing into case and the H50 above HDD cage exhausting out the front.

Should the side 220mm fan be blowing into the case?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


Well... case fan... from Side panel... the one on the GPU I can set it as Exhaust or maybe both as Exhaust pfff no clue...

also its not only the RAD as exhaust there will be another 120mm below the Rad as exhaust as well.... not sure of where the hard drives are(which has another 120mm).. would that be *Pull cold or Exhaust ?


Side fans are generally good as intake as they cool the components they are directed at and supply cooler air into the system. The hard drives you are referring too (I think) are below the 5.25 bay. Again, generally, its accepted practice to have an intake fan in front on them to cool them.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Let me see what you all think about my setup then. I have a 120mm on top exhausting, 120mm in back exhausting, 220mm side fan exhausting, 120mm front connected to my HDD bay at the bottom of the front of my case blowing into case and the H50 above HDD cage exhausting out the front.

Should the side 220mm fan be blowing into the case?


Side fan = intake (as reasoned above).

H50= intake or exhaust is up to you. Whatever you find gives you the best temps.

Personally, I have my H50 in the 5.25 bay as an intake because its now winter here. My top 120mm and rear 120mm are all exhaust. My side 120mm, bottom 120mm and front HD 120mm are intake.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Side fans are generally good as intake as they cool the components they are directed at and supply cooler air into the system. The hard drives you are referring too (I think) are below the 5.25 bay. Again, generally, its accepted practice to have an intake fan in front on them to cool them.


Okay I guess I'll forget of placing the Rad at Front bay... I'll leave it how I have it currently RAD (rear of case - exhaust), TOP both fans Exhaust, Side Panels both as Intake, Front HD Bay & 5.25 Bay(that is top, middle & bottom) as Intake.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Side fan = intake (as reasoned above).

H50= intake or exhaust is up to you. Whatever you find gives you the best temps.

Personally, I have my H50 in the 5.25 bay as an intake because its now winter here. My top 120mm and rear 120mm are all exhaust. My side 120mm, bottom 120mm and front HD 120mm are intake.


Thanks; going to change my side fan to intake and then once I get my GT fans I will try H50 intake too. It should make it so everything goes from the front->back and top of case.


----------



## DavidL

To all those using Intel CPUs and getting less than 60C load temps: Do you guys have HT disabled?


----------



## ecaftermath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


did it all already and thanks, for how many people cant take that i am a girl on this forum, its kinda pathetic, thanks for the compliment sethy









EDIT: still waiting for windows to finish making my backup on my backup drive, when its done im going to bed


Hai. I'm from Toronto too.


----------



## Antihista

Hi

everyone I am new to this group any suggestions for me. I have my H50 with a pair of Cooler Master R4's in a push/pull config and was wondering about how to wire all this up.

my main questions is where to plug what into what my pump is plugged into my cpu header (max speed) and the fans are plugged into the PSU. what would be the best way to add in a fan control to quiet my system down when I am not gaming

also what other cooling blocks can I add without really crippling the H50 (video card, etc)


----------



## Luass Hole

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
if you read this "thread" by sexybastard: http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...adiator-3.html

You will see about 8c drop in one his posts when doing some testings with his res mod

Did you not see that he added another radiator......? lol he even has a you tube video of it. In my case a reservoir doesn't do ****. In anyone else's it wont either. If they say it does then they are lying. Adding a res is basically for looks only


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
if you read this "thread" by sexybastard: http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...adiator-3.html

You will see about 8c drop in one his posts when doing some testings with his res mod

yes he did, but he also had dual rads on it


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Afternoon all, so I shall be getting my hands on a couple of new Scythe Ultra kaze 3000rpm fans soonish and intend on changing my current scythe kaze jyuni 1900rpm exahaust setup and making a front intake push/pull setup.

Was just wondering what screws I would require for such a setup, as now I shall have 2x120x38mm fans with 2x25mm shrouds.

Cheers for your time guys









Oh on another note PCSarge, Ive been checking out ure "ghetto drivebay mod" its exactly what im intending on doing myself, same case aswel and I read that its attached by just thick cable ties ? how stable is it? It seems to be an easier method than having to drill in supports or screws through the side of the drive bay.

Cheers!


----------



## Luass Hole

Hey PcSarge, I'm sure a pretty girl like you has a facebook or a myspace......What's your email so I can look you up?


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DavidL*


To all those using Intel CPUs and getting less than 60C load temps: Do you guys have HT disabled?


Well my CPU does not have Hyper Threading, so in a sense it's off and I do hover at around 62C at Load in Prime95 but in the mid 50's when gaming.


----------



## ThirdLap

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


yes he did, but he also had dual rads on it


Hey PCSarge, is that you in your avatar?

[EDIT: Nevermind, I see that you've confirmed that it is indeed you. You should be aware that your picture (as well as the rest of the pics in the 'series') are showing up on a lot of, ahem, adult websites these days. I'd provide a link, but I imagine it would be in violation of the forum TOS.]


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Luass Hole*


Hey PcSarge, I'm sure a pretty girl like you has a facebook or a myspace......What's your email so I can look you up?


----------



## Luass Hole

BodyCount, If i believed every avatar I saw I would think you were some fat guy that sat at his desk all day punching his face in....I bet a pair corsair dominators that it doesn't have a facebook or a myspace or a webcam...or a vagime for that matter


----------



## Luass Hole

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*


Well my CPU does not have Hyper Threading, so in a sense it's off and I do hover at around 62C at Load in Prime95 but in the mid 50's when gaming.


Why buy an Intel processor If your going to turn off HyperThreading?


----------



## Luass Hole

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ThirdLap*


Hey PCSarge, is that you in your avatar?

[EDIT: Nevermind, I see that you've confirmed that it is indeed you. You should be aware that your picture (as well as the rest of the pics in the 'series') are showing up on a lot of, ahem, adult websites these days. I'd provide a link, but I imagine it would be in violation of the forum TOS.]


PM me that link


----------



## ThirdLap

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Luass Hole*


PM me that link










Well, in the off chance that it is actually her pictured in the avatar, I can't bring myself to do that. Besides, I imagine mods can monitor PMs, so I would still be violating the TOS.

I will say this. If you are going to use someone else's picture, make sure it isn't one that can be found using a reverse image search service.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Luass Hole*


BodyCount, If i believed every avatar I saw I would think you were some fat guy that sat at his desk all day punching his face in....I bet a pair corsair dominators that it doesn't have a facebook or a myspace or a webcam...or a vagime for that matter


That obviously went straight over your head









That kinda stuff has the tendencies to get threads locked down.
as the OCN girls have already seen. Try a Pm
This is just mho. Maybe its just me.

Edit:








Nevermind i just saw what you did and are trying
Nuff said









1) Learn to use edit button
2) Utilize the Pm feature
3) Quit being a caveman


----------



## Luass Hole

LOL AHAHAHAHAHAH THIRD LAP you right I googled reverse image lookup then uploaded its avatar and it showed her face on some spanish porn site AHAHAHAHAH. Third Lap you are awsome!!

http://www.tineye.com/ = try it for yourself









Yea bodycount, its hard for me to understand what some emoticons stand for. Ive only been apart of a forum for about a month. Im a emoticon noob......


----------



## metallicamaster3

I know own two H50s


----------



## Luass Hole

show them off to us? Id love to see how pretty they are







. Well look at that a fellow NewYorker!!


----------



## Bodycount

> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Luass Hole*
> LOL AHAHAHAHAHAH THIRD LAP you right I googled reverse image lookup then uploaded its avatar and it showed her face on some spanish porn site AHAHAHAHAH. Third Lap you are awsome!!
> 
> http://www.tineye.com/ = try it for yourself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry i had to. I'm getting outta here before i somehow get in trouble


----------



## metallicamaster3

Second one is on the way. Now the one in my main rig matches the one that is going into my server.


----------



## loudfm

Add me in


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


yes he did, but he also had dual rads on it


yeah i know..







just wanted to show that user that there was a res mod that actually did show a good drop.

If i had an extra H50 then spent random $$ to buy an extra rad & all the rest of the accessories needed.... I would give it a try .. pretty sure me trying it... it would die on me LOL


----------



## Luass Hole

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
yeah i know..







just wanted to show that user that there was a *res mod* that actually did show a good drop.

If i had an extra h50 then spent random $$ to buy an extra rad & all the rest of the accessories needed.... I would give it a try .. Pretty sure me trying it... It would die on me lol


rad mod


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Luass Hole* 
rad mod









lol thnx for the correction


----------



## Luass Hole




----------



## Killhouse

Lets keep it clean please guys. Mods love this thread enough already









Let the H50-lovin' continue!


----------



## PCSarge

i'm going to paint my case orange/ blue this weekend...cant decide what color goes better on the outside and faceplate
therefore, you guys get to vote on it


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i'm going to paint my case orange/ blue this weekend...cant decide what color goes better on the outside and faceplate
therefore, you guys get to vote on it










I would tape off a design in it of some kind like a S kinda pattern paint half blue half orange.

Give me a minute will throw together a quick drawling.

Do you have a picture of your case or brand/model?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i'm going to paint my case orange/ blue this weekend...cant decide what color goes better on the outside and faceplate
therefore, you guys get to vote on it










I vote for blue on the outside with orange for the faceplate and some kind of orange trim along the edges.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I would tape off a design in it of some kind like a S kinda pattern paint half blue half orange.

Give me a minute will throw together a quick drawling.

Do you have a picture of your case or brand/model?


i have an HAF 932, i was going to paint the HAF logo the opposite color, if you post the designs so i can print them and use them as stencils, then itll look really good... i was swaying more towards orange, it will stand out more in my dull apartment, dont do an S... i'm not a fan of superman, just draw out a design of some sort, and if i do like it, ill print it and use it as a stencil , bear in mind the right side of the case is solid, the left has the window and fan grille as seen in the pictures from the CM site


----------



## Carfanatic

Of course it would vary depending on your case but crude design using both colors.

It would require a lot of taping but shouldn't be hard if you use painters tape. The back and opposite side could be either mirrors of the front and other side or the same and the HAF logo could still be painted the opposite color that happen to go around it.


----------



## Carfanatic

Okay after finding some pictures all I am showing is the tape line I would make on the case with a yellow line so you can see it easily. It would be you choice on what side/parts to paint orange and blue.





































Added This top pick I would X it off and paint each side of the part of the X the opposite color as the bottom parts of the case.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Of course it would vary depending on your case but crude design using both colors.

It would require a lot of taping but shouldn't be hard if you use painters tape. The back and opposite side could be either mirrors of the front and other side or the same and the HAF logo could still be painted the opposite color that happen to go around it.


This is a H50 thread not a what color do you think my case should be... please post in the appropriate section.

I would have to see swatches of the Blue and Orange you will be using... you could spend a little more time on photo-shop so we can see it better...


----------



## pcnuttie

Yea i hate to ruin everyone's mood but yes this this a H50 thread not how to custom paint idea thread lol. Make another thread and we can follow it. Kinda forum rule for that. Keep it posting though!


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
This is a H50 thread not a what color do you think my case should be... please post in the appropriate section.

I would have to see swatches of the Blue and Orange you will be using... you could spend a little more time on photo-shop so we can see it better...

Sorry I get paid to design graphics and websites not going to spend time on a quick throw together that I get $0 when it isn't my case and I don't even know the exact colors of blue and or orange.

To get this back on a H50 note I worked on the retaining brackets on my computer that hold the fans, shrouds and radiator in the front of my case and worked on the direction of my other case fans it dropped 2 C after now I can't wait till I get my GentleTyphoons on Monday and hopefully they really make a difference.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
This is a H50 thread not a what color do you think my case should be... please post in the appropriate section.

I would have to see swatches of the Blue and Orange you will be using... you could spend a little more time on photo-shop so we can see it better...


Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
Yea i hate to ruin everyone's mood but yes this this a H50 thread not how to custom paint idea thread lol. Make another thread and we can follow it. Kinda forum rule for that. Keep it posting though!









I think PCSarge got confused.. I know she's a part of the HAF932 club as well...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Sorry I get paid to design graphics and websites not going to spend time on a quick throw together that I get $0 when it isn't my case and I don't even know the exact colors of blue and or orange.

Not trying to stay off topic, but honestly, a HAF932 is such a rugged/militaristic designed case, that long sweeping "S" lines would not look good, no matter how good the paint job. Those kinds of schemes are more suited towards a Cosmos or some smoother/curvier case.

/END OFF TOPIC-NESS


----------



## fssbzz

jesus. this thread have been off topic a lot of times.
last few days, a lot ppl post their dog pic.[OCN Official Dog Club]
then, ppl cant accept PCSarge is a girl in OCN.
and now, about HAF932.
go to case mod section> go >go
stop


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


jesus. this thread have been off topic a lot of times.
last few days, a lot ppl post their dog pic.[OCN Official Dog Club] 
then, ppl cant accept PCSarge is a girl in OCN.
and now, about HAF932.
go to case mod section> go >go
stop































i







off topic ppl


----------



## BVM

I'm in as well!


----------



## ted86

Is it ok to just hook up a 3-pin fan that doesn't have a PWM 4th pin to my CPU_FAN slot?

I'm already looking into getting a more efficient/quieter fan than the stocker and my Antec 3spd fan.


----------



## Genome

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ted86* 
Is it ok to just hook up a 3-pin fan that doesn't have a PWM 4th pin to my CPU_FAN slot?

I'm already looking into getting a more efficient/quieter fan than the stocker and my Antec 3spd fan.

You should be using that slot for your H50 power source.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ted86*


Is it ok to just hook up a 3-pin fan that doesn't have a PWM 4th pin to my CPU_FAN slot?

I'm already looking into getting a more efficient/quieter fan than the stocker and my Antec 3spd fan.


Absolutely









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Genome*


You should be using that slot for your H50 power source.


Not necessarily - normally you would plug your pump into one of the arbitary Case Fan sockets, since you will be running it at 100% all the time. The fan on the radiator is normally plugged into CPU_FAN.


----------



## scottath

hmm - question time









With my ITX build (link in sig) im running my H50.

Currently im running:

120*38mm Scythe Ultra Kaze 2000rpm > 120*25mm shroud > H50 rad

this is too noisy for what i was expecting/wanting.

SO:

i did some googling (well i tried - im capped atm so its dam slow....dam aussie internet) and found this:
http://martin.skinneelabs.com/Radiat...ng-Review.html

which suggests that for a single 25mm fan its better to have it in pull with a ~30mm shroud at best.

My options:

*38mm
2000rpm Scythe Ultra Kaze
2 different sunon server based fans - very loud and inpracticle.

*25mm
110cfm (max) Scythe Slipstream (2000rpm?)
Nocta fan - pretty sure its a NF-S12-1200
Blue LED Generic fan
Coolermaster fans from CM690 (stock)
Lian li fans (from lian li v2010b stock)
stock corsair H50 fan

Usage:
As per my build (sig link)
ATM i have it running as exhaust - which i think is best
on of (atm) 3 fans in case - one in PSU, other is gfx card - so this fan will vent most of the cases heat
quiet
prefer not to have to control it i think

Which to choose?


----------



## staryoshi

If I were you I'd have a single 25mm fan pushing through a shroud. I found that a 12mm shroud helps even (hacked up a couple kaze slims), which saves space. A 25mm shroud would be fine as well. I'd use the Noctua fan, too. I'm not one for noisy fans myself


----------



## mak1skav

I use Corsair H50 with 2x Noctua NF-P12 in Push/Pull. Here is a screen-shot to check temperatures. Ambient in the room was 26ÂºC


----------



## ted86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Genome*


You should be using that slot for your H50 power source.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Absolutely










My plan was to change out my push pull fans to a pair of Cooler Master R4-C2R-20AC-GP fans (I like my case quiet) and couldn't remember where I had everything plugged in.

After re-inspecting the case I remember where everything was.


----------



## Michael Cox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mak1skav*


I use Corsair H50 with 2x Noctua NF-P12 in Push/Pull. Here is a screen-shot to check temperatures. Ambient in the room was 26ÂºC


If I'm reading that correctly, that was at idle? Or is that at the end of a load test?

If it is at idel that seems a bit high your ambient and mine are about the same. Mine is 27C right now (gets hot as hell in here after an all nighter) usually runs 25-26C.

Just curious.

EDIT*** I just saw you are OC to 4.1 so maybe that is it.


----------



## Genome

Took me a while to get a picture but here it is! Joining the H50 club.


----------



## XtachiX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Michael Cox*


If I'm reading that correctly, that was at idle? Or is that at the end of a load test?

If it is at idel that seems a bit high your ambient and mine are about the same. Mine is 27C right now (gets hot as hell in here after an all nighter) usually runs 25-26C.

Just curious.

EDIT*** I just saw you are OC to 4.1 so maybe that is it.


wow we got the same mobo, kewl! finally


----------



## Spct

I switched my H50 from push/pull to pull/push and saw a noticeable drop in load temps.

Idle low 20's C, loaded playing Bad Co, high 50's, before the change was mid to high 60's.


----------



## ThirdLap

Since I never put the full 3.7GHz to any real use, I decided to downclock a bit and try a LinX run at 3.5GHz/1.42v:

Ambient: 23Â°C
Idle: 32Â°C
Load: 45Â°C (highest temp during 20 cycle LinX run)

I still can't get over how efficient the H50 is!


----------



## XtachiX

oh it IS very efficient! it surprised me too!
i'm totally satisfied with it


----------



## mak1skav

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Michael Cox* 
If I'm reading that correctly, that was at idle? Or is that at the end of a load test?

If it is at idel that seems a bit high your ambient and mine are about the same. Mine is 27C right now (gets hot as hell in here after an all nighter) usually runs 25-26C.

Just curious.

EDIT*** I just saw you are OC to 4.1 so maybe that is it.

Yeah as you said the temperatures are with the i7 930 overclocked to 4.1GHz that's why it is 51 at idle and 79 under full load with linx.

These i7 are monstrous heat producers







and don't forget if you run Linx under Windows 64bit it produces more heat because it's stress the CPU more than when you run it in 32bit mode.


----------



## Imrac

Just picked one up at bestbuy for 59.99, they forgot to pull the sale price. So they ha to adjust the price from 79.99. Plesently surprised!


----------



## PCSarge

off topic :

i just finished painting my HAF 932

inside is royal blue
faceplate is bright orange w/ blue mesh
hard drive holders and cd drive locking mechanisms are orange
outside of case is stock black


----------



## Magus2727

Pics?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Pics?


thier coming... i need to find some good light first


----------



## ted86

Don't mean to be a thread whore, but I've got mine set up in push/pull exhausting out the back.

My setup is the Antec 300 with the top 140mm fan pulling air into the case along with a front and side 120mm fan.

Is this the most efficient setup or should I convert it to a push/pull into the case with the top 140mm fan acting as the exhaust fan? The front and side fans remaining as intake fans.


----------



## PCSarge

sadly my cellphone camera has no flash, so you cant really see the blue but here they are


----------



## Bodycount

Looks good PCSarge!

I can just see you running around your apt. lugging your cpu around lookin for good light


----------



## Magus2727

Looks good.. how much prep did you have to do? and did you just rattle can the case? or did you air brush it?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Looks good PCSarge!

I can just see you running around your apt. lugging your cpu around lookin for good light










 correction, i can run around, but its on weels, so i win


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Looks good.. how much prep did you have to do? and did you just rattle can the case? or did you air brush it?


 about 2 1/2 hrs prep.

then another 2 priming everything.....

then another hour double paint coating everything

EDIT: and yes i rattle canned it, but as you can see, i'm very professional with krylon


----------



## VZif

I may have already posted, but it seems like half the stuff i posted last night never made it on the forum?! weird. Well, w/ that said:
Here are my two H50 units:


----------



## Magus2727

Now a picture with you in it to confirm gender...







JK!

Makes me want to do something to jazz up my case.... its been the same dull black for the last 5 years....


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Now a picture with you in it to confirm gender...







JK!

Makes me want to do something to jazz up my case.... its been the same dull black for the last 5 years....


 yeah... it took me about half a year to get bored of black....i got the itch to paint it about a month ago....and today i actually did it


----------



## Magus2727

I have the Thermal Take Armor so the nice thing is most the pannels and other things all come off.... so I can do some painting... none of my past paint jobs turn out to well... i get to inpatient and put a coat on to soon and it wrinkles on me.....

I could always get some automotive paint and air brush... that stuff drys a lot faster then spray paint. I would just want to make it look cool... but I think i would get tired of it quicker then black....

I could airbrush the folding protein on the side of my case!!!


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


about 2 1/2 hrs prep.

then another 2 priming everything.....

then another hour double paint coating everything

EDIT: and yes i rattle canned it, but as you can see, i'm very professional with krylon










No disrespect PCSarge, but you've got some major unevenness in your paintjob.. I can see lots of highs and lows, and even some black coming through your paint perhaps...

You should wetsand and even it out, spray again, and clear... Then sand the clear









OH YEAH! BTW, I DO LOVE THE PAINT SCHEME THOUGH!


----------



## imh073p

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
sadly my cellphone camera has no flash, so you cant really see the blue but here they are

Odd colors but it works!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
sadly my cellphone camera has no flash, so you cant really see the blue but here they are

Looks good!


----------



## chris14029

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
yeah... it took me about half a year to get bored of black....i got the itch to paint it about a month ago....and today i actually did it

i put a big fat peace sighn on the side of mine(sorry off topic i know)


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
No disrespect PCSarge, but you've got some major unevenness in your paintjob.. I can see lots of highs and lows, and even some black coming through your paint perhaps...

You should wetsand and even it out, spray again, and clear... Then sand the clear









OH YEAH! BTW, I DO LOVE THE PAINT SCHEME THOUGH!









only if your buying the paint... its 6 bucks a can, and i cant clear it, its gloss


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
only if your buying the paint... its 6 bucks a can, and i cant clear it, its gloss

Gloss doesn't matter. You can clear it, and should. Gives you that DEEEEEEP Shine


----------



## Magus2727

gloss just will gumm up the sand paper faster... but you can still wet sand and clear coat... let it dry at least 48 hours before attempting to wet sand and repaint.

Get some 800+ grit paint to wet sand... 1200 if you really want it to shine.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
Gloss doesn't matter. You can clear it, and should. Gives you that DEEEEEEP Shine









its shiny enough, and i think what you thought was uneven or uncloated, was the lighting, and again, only if your buying the paint... considering it costed $40 between paint and primer


----------



## Magus2727

Wonder what a Matt finish with a gloss would work... it works on some sports cars...

this has gotten way off topic....


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
gloss just will gumm up the sand paper faster... but you can still wet sand and clear coat... let it dry at least 48 hours before attempting to wet sand and repaint.

Get some 800+ grit paint to wet sand... 1200 if you really want it to shine.

Gloss doesn't gum up if you keep your surface wet. As far as shine goes...

*For RATTLE CAN* Wetsand the base coat til its completely even and no orange peel. It will appear dull, but the CLEAR makes it glossy again, and then you can wetsand the clear with 1000,1500,2000, then polish for that ridiculously beautiful mirror shine.

Personally, I sand the base with 800. Then clear 3 coats. Sand with 1000 to eliminate Orange Peel, then 2000 til its completely flat. Then polish. My buffer wheel crapped out on me, so I had to do it by hand this last time... Ugh.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
its shiny enough, and i think what you thought was uneven or uncloated, was the lighting, and again, only if your buying the paint...

Nope, I'm done with rattle can... WAAAAY too much time and effort to get a beautiful paint job. I went got myself a gun and compressor.

Next time, it's Auto Paint.. Shoot and Cured in 3hours







Heck, $50 will buy all the paint to do everything 2x over. Can't beat that!


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
Wonder what a Matt finish with a gloss would work... it works on some sports cars...

this has gotten way off topic....

maybe...and so what if its off topic... for once we're not talking about tubes,rads,and fans


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
Wonder what a Matt finish with a gloss would work... it works on some sports cars...

this has gotten way off topic....

I used Matte Clear on my Stacker, if thats what you're referring too. Gave a deep glossy finish, but wasn't *Mirror* finish if you know what I'm saying. But thats the look I was going for this time.

Matte clear is pretty sweet btw. $5 a can here, and you need quite a few...









*EDIT*

HEY, THIS NEEDS TO BE IN THE HAF932 FORUM!!! LETS MOVE THIS OVER!!!

Didn't realize this conversation was continuing in the wrong thread...


----------



## scottath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottath*


hmm - question time









With my ITX build (link in sig) im running my H50.

Currently im running:

120*38mm Scythe Ultra Kaze 2000rpm > 120*25mm shroud > H50 rad

this is too noisy for what i was expecting/wanting.

SO:

i did some googling (well i tried - im capped atm so its dam slow....dam aussie internet) and found this:
http://martin.skinneelabs.com/Radiat...ng-Review.html

which suggests that for a single 25mm fan its better to have it in pull with a ~30mm shroud at best.

My options:

*38mm
2000rpm Scythe Ultra Kaze
2 different sunon server based fans - very loud and inpracticle.

*25mm
110cfm (max) Scythe Slipstream (2000rpm?)
Nocta fan - pretty sure its a NF-S12-1200
Blue LED Generic fan
Coolermaster fans from CM690 (stock)
Lian li fans (from lian li v2010b stock)
stock corsair H50 fan

Usage:
As per my build (sig link)
ATM i have it running as exhaust - which i think is best
on of (atm) 3 fans in case - one in PSU, other is gfx card - so this fan will vent most of the cases heat
quiet
prefer not to have to control it i think

Which to choose?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *staryoshi*


If I were you I'd have a single 25mm fan pushing through a shroud. I found that a 12mm shroud helps even (hacked up a couple kaze slims), which saves space. A 25mm shroud would be fine as well. I'd use the Noctua fan, too. I'm not one for noisy fans myself











Quote:



Originally Posted by *mak1skav*


I use Corsair H50 with 2x Noctua NF-P12 in Push/Pull. Here is a screen-shot to check temperatures. Ambient in the room was 26ÂºC



Quote:



Originally Posted by *mak1skav*


Yeah as you said the temperatures are with the i7 930 overclocked to 4.1GHz that's why it is 51 at idle and 79 under full load with linx.

These i7 are monstrous heat producers







and don't forget if you run Linx under Windows 64bit it produces more heat because it's stress the CPU more than when you run it in 32bit mode.


Nice temps mate.

issue is that i cannot really run push pull - due to space - take a lok at my biuld - its tiny.

from the link i posted - it would seem that a low speed fan is best at pull, where as higher speed fans are better at push.....

so should i do:

H50 Rad > shourd > nocta > case


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottath*


Nice temps mate.

issue is that i cannot really run push pull - due to space - take a lok at my biuld - its tiny.

from the link i posted - it would seem that a low speed fan is best at pull, where as higher speed fans are better at push.....

so should i do:

H50 Rad > shourd > nocta > case


Do you have any thing against having any fan or shroud outside your case?

if not you can do Fan>Rad>Case>Fan... and if you have extra room stick a shroud some where in the mix


----------



## pcnuttie

Why whould you wanna pull in the air inside your case? Normally it's better if you use a regular airflow such as push and pull.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


its shiny enough, and i think what you thought was uneven or uncloated, was the lighting, and again, only if your buying the paint... considering it costed $40 between paint and primer


And if your trying to paint a car for a car show








or post on the MDPC site. It looks great and i'm sure as with many pics it looks even better in person.

ya PCSarge i hear ya!
It adds up









I miss tinker'en with my H50 and being how i can't fit everything in my case i have my system wall mounted so its very easy to get in there and change stuff around and test things "Shrouds/Fans".

But i'm really having a problem with how much stress some H50 owners apply to the cooling lines for their in particular setups* "just remember these barbs are plastic"* weather it be set in a default rear exhaust/Intake fan set up *or* in the drive bays as intake.

Please understand Corsair H50 Owners/Users i am not smack talkin when ever i am in this H50 thread but im just a user that like others thinks of this like a car accident... It wont happen to me. I am a very Loyal Dominator user.

When my leak occurred there was absolutely no stress to the lines "Nor have there ever been". The rad has always been secured the way the lines naturally wanted to be in which= No stress on the lines.

Just trying to be a most useful mammal


----------



## Ceadderman

You should join the HAF club. It's listed in my sig. Nice setup.









Girls are more fun than boys, they got more buttons.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


sadly my cellphone camera has no flash, so you cant really see the blue but here they are


----------



## scottath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Do you have any thing against having any fan or shroud outside your case?

if not you can do Fan>Rad>Case>Fan... and if you have extra room stick a shroud some where in the mix


Kinda wanna avoid external.....

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Why whould you wanna pull in the air inside your case? Normally it's better if you use a regular airflow such as push and pull.


better to pull the case air through - than to pump an i7s heat into my tiny case.....


----------



## navit

Question about the h50, what are the usual rpm for this pump on average, mine does not seem go past 1360.
In 10min. in occt stress test it hit 70c







, pump rpm never went past 1360


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *navit* 
Question about the h50, what are the usual rpm for this pump on average, mine does not seem go past 1360.
In 10min. in occt stress test it hit 70c







, pump rpm never went past 1360

around 1400++


----------



## navit

Its starting to sound like I may have a bad pump


----------



## scottath

still - 1360 is 3% slower than "normal" - id say they would send it back saying its fine.


----------



## navit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottath*


still - 1360 is 3% slower than "normal" - id say they would send it back saying its fine.


What kind of load temps should I be seing out of it?


----------



## scottath

im getting ~65c with my i7 @ stock


----------



## navit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottath*


im getting ~65c with my i7 @ stock


Wow, Idont feel so bad


----------



## imh073p

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottath*


im getting ~65c with my i7 @ stock


H50 starts to shine on i7 oc to 3.6-4ghz, 10c lower than my old V-8. At stock mine loads linx at 10c lower that yours, reseat maybe? Im using as5.


----------



## scottath

yea - im using the stock TIM - i have some IC7 to use soon.....


----------



## Prugor

Mine pretty much stays between 1350-1360 when using the CPU_FAN plug. I would say that is a good consistent RPM, not like it's going a few hundred up and down, which would be a huge problem if it was.


----------



## GoTMaXPoWeR

SpeedFan only reports two fans, Fan1 and Fan2, 700RPM and 900RPM. I've got 2 fans and the pump connected to the motherboard and I'm not sure whether or not one of those two fans listed is my pump. The pump is plugged into FAN5 on the motherboard.


----------



## Kvjavs

Has anyone noticed the tubes not twisting with the pump as it is turned?

Only way I can describe it is like this:

You are extending your right index finger, and wrap your left hand around it. You twist your right hand and your finger twists however your left hand stays stationary.

Your right hand/finger is the pump, left hand is the tube.

I want to make sure that this is normal before I re-install my H50 or RMA it.

4 a.m. and tired.... xD


----------



## pedrosa

My i7-980x. H50 2x Noctua NF-P12 push-pull exhausting.
Ambient about 23c


----------



## fssbzz

my pump sometimes go up to 15k on HWMonitor lolm when i do prime95
then jump to 1400+ sometimes 1500


----------



## Genome

Somtimes HWmonitor clocks in my max RPM at 675000. Of course that is incorrect but it happens occasionally. Nothing wrong with the H50 as it always just sits between
1370-1420. Seeing that much RPM make me laugh


----------



## FriedSushi87

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kvjavs* 
Has anyone noticed the tubes not twisting with the pump as it is turned?

Only way I can describe it is like this:

You are extending your right index finger, and wrap your left hand around it. You twist your right hand and your finger twists however your left hand stays stationary.

Your right hand/finger is the pump, left hand is the tube.

I want to make sure that this is normal before I re-install my H50 or RMA it.

4 a.m. and tired.... xD

+1 rep for the fantastic visual


----------



## SchiTzo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kvjavs* 
Has anyone noticed the tubes not twisting with the pump as it is turned?

Only way I can describe it is like this:

You are extending your right index finger, and wrap your left hand around it. You twist your right hand and your finger twists however your left hand stays stationary.

Your right hand/finger is the pump, left hand is the tube.

I want to make sure that this is normal before I re-install my H50 or RMA it.

4 a.m. and tired.... xD

After that visual it's very tempting to go off-topic.. but I'll resist the urge.. lol

can't say i've seen any movement at all on my pump, but can see the tubes jump slightly on startup from pressure/flow


----------



## scottath

i cannot remember the tubes rotating at the pump end - but they defiantly move at the rad end


----------



## Kvjavs

My brain is half dead, couldn't think of any other way to describe it without being confusing.

It did this before and there wasn't any leaks, just wondering if its "normal".

And now I can't stop laughing about the finger thing.


----------



## Ceadderman

Do you want it to leak?

Cause bluntly, if your tubes twist on the fittings then you're going to have leaks. Cause they won't be tight to the fittings.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kvjavs*


Has anyone noticed the tubes not twisting with the pump as it is turned?

Only way I can describe it is like this:

You are extending your right index finger, and wrap your left hand around it. You twist your right hand and your finger twists however your left hand stays stationary.

Your right hand/finger is the pump, left hand is the tube.

I want to make sure that this is normal before I re-install my H50 or RMA it.

4 a.m. and tired.... xD


----------



## Imrac

Just got h50 installed, Load is 49c ambient is 23c with Prime95 for 15 minutes. Much better than my Zalman 9700. All for only 20 dollars out of pocket. Best Buy forgot to remove the sale price, so I got it for 59.99, then had a 25 dollar best buy gift card from Christmas and 20 dollars left on a visa gift card =). Though the Corsair fan is kinda loud. Fan configuration is Push/Pull Exhaust.


----------



## Kvjavs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Do you want it to leak?

Cause bluntly, if your tubes twist on the fittings then you're going to have leaks. Cause they won't be tight to the fittings.









~Ceadder










I'm not intentionally doing it, it's just something I was noticing.


----------



## Ceadderman

All good bro. I just thought I should point out the obvious. I apologize if I come off heavy handed. I'm dealing with a bunch of morons on the fan site I belong to and it's the off season so they think that every player is expendable and that some guys aren't worth the guaranteed money they are seeking.

Back on topic...

You just have to mount the H50 so there is no air to be stuck at a fitting. At the pump or the Rad and so that the hoses don't kink at the fittings. If you're having difficulty mounting the pump with the Rad in place then remove the Rad from where you mounted it and try the pump first. IF it's the other way around I don't know what to tell you because the TIM is mounted now. Unless you have a tube handy, you may have to live with it and try to finesse the Rad into place.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kvjavs*


I'm not intentionally doing it, it's just something I was noticing.


----------



## Kvjavs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


You just have to mount the H50 so there is no air to be stuck at a fitting. At the pump or the Rad and so that the hoses don't kink at the fittings. If you're having difficulty mounting the pump with the Rad in place then remove the Rad from where you mounted it and try the pump first. IF it's the other way around I don't know what to tell you because the TIM is mounted now. Unless you have a tube handy, you may have to live with it and try to finesse the Rad into place.

~Ceadder











Not quite sure what you mean by no air to be stuck at the fitting. I haven't disassembled the H50 at all, and is unmodded.

Also I think the fittings are secure, I gave the tubes a bit of a light tug (nothing excessive, just enough to make sure they weren't coming undone) and they didn't budge at all, it's only the twists.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Now I know the rated rpm for the H50 is 1400rpm. Mine always sits around 1339, 1368 and 1383.
I have never seen it hit 1400rpm, now this is within speedfan and although the rest of my readings do correspond with other temp monitoring programs, I know there can always be some diff and errors within speedfan.
I currently have my pump plugged into the cpu point on the motherboard, and the fans on the rad directly to psu, there is a "power fan" slot on my MB which one of the fans is plugged into, I was wondering perhaps if I switched the pump to that it would then be at the rated rpm ?
Hopefully theres someone here who has this same problem, well I say problem my temps are fine with my current OC never pass 59 degrees under max load within Prime95.
Just want my pump to run at its stated rpm.

Cheers!


----------



## XtachiX

well here are the images as i promised

v
v
v


----------



## mak1skav

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pedrosa*


My i7-980x. H50 2x Noctua NF-P12 push-pull exhausting.
Ambient about 23c










This is sick mate. Only 58ÂºC under full load with Linx and you are using a six core cpu at 4.0 GHz. These temperatures are really sick bro.


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mak1skav*


This is sick mate. Only 58ÂºC under full load with Linx and you are using a six core cpu at 4.0 GHz. These temperatures are really sick bro.


'sick' does that mean bad temps?


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

No! It means Awesome temps m8, I'm going to post my current temps while running LinX and you shall see why they are soo good!


----------



## mak1skav

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pedrosa*


'sick' does that mean bad temps?


No, it means exactly the opposite. As R3aCt0r M|Nd said these are awesome temps.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Even though I am happy with my temps (I have higher ambient temp aswel) my current fans do not have the best static pressure, will be buying some new scythe ultra kaze 3000(80pa) or some sanyo denki(70.4pa) soon along with my new 5870









just to show how good your temps are m8 at 4ghz! Seeing my 3.66 overclock temps


----------



## Ceadderman

It means you want as little cavitation as possible at the fittings. Cavitation is bad. It can ruin the pump very quickly. So you'll want to keep the flow as unimpeded as you can.

Like on this page where XtachiX is showing us his pump is upside down and his Rad fittings are at the bottom. That's not bad but if you have a spot like he, PCSarge and I do next to the top 230mm fan, it's probably better there as any bubbles in the system float to the mounted side of the Rad. Where he has his isn't bad for it because the fittings are at the bottom and the bubbles would rise to the end of the Rad instead of collecting at the fittings had it been mounted 180 style.

I didn't think you dismantled the system. Though it wouldn't bother me if you did as there are several H50 owners here that have done so and have some really attractive and functional setups. I won't do it because I'm just going to go h2o eventually and I want my setup to be all 1/2". If for no other reason than to appease my OCD nature.









~Ceadder









*Edit* My bad, I thought XtachiX had a 932. He wouldn't want to remove his 230 to mount the H50 there. Pardon my blindness XtachiX, if you please.







*ediT*

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kvjavs* 
Not quite sure what you mean by no air to be stuck at the fitting. I haven't disassembled the H50 at all, and is unmodded.

Also I think the fittings are secure, I gave the tubes a bit of a light tug (nothing excessive, just enough to make sure they weren't coming undone) and they didn't budge at all, it's only the twists.


----------



## imh073p

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pedrosa* 
My i7-980x. H50 2x Noctua NF-P12 push-pull exhausting.
Ambient about 23c









You should still be hitting 70c at least, there is something going on there.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XtachiX*


well here are the images as i promised

v
v
v




















Good job, can I recommend some zip ties and perhaps change out that old IDE CD drive with a SATA one (only cost about 20)? That would really improve the look and airflow in your case.


----------



## navit

Mind if I jion the club?
Here are some pics of my new rig, tell me what you think


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *imh073p*


You should still be hitting 70c at least, there is something going on there.


The temps were in the high 60's with the stock tim, i tried arctic mx-3(same temps high 60's). Then i used ocz freeze and this got it down to the temps shown..nothing going on...


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*











Even though I am happy with my temps (I have higher ambient temp aswel) my current fans do not have the best static pressure, will be buying some new scythe ultra kaze 3000(80pa) or some sanyo denki(70.4pa) soon along with my new 5870









just to show how good your temps are m8 at 4ghz! Seeing my 3.66 overclock temps










what tim are you using?


----------



## spacegoast

Here is an update of my system:









I moved the rad up to the top slot and added a 38mm fan shroud. Working out great so far. Loads ~64C at 4ghz using 1.384v (22x182) and hits ~74C at 4.1ghz at 1.4 vcore (20x205).


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pedrosa* 
what tim are you using?

Stock shin-etsu, I was going to pick up some of the same you mentioned but was reassured that the shin-etsu was very good TIM.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spacegoast* 
Here is an update of my system:









I moved the rad up to the top slot and added a 38mm fan shroud. Working out great so far. Loads ~64C at 4ghz using 1.384v (22x182) and hits ~74C at 4.1ghz at 1.4 vcore (20x205).

I'm going to be doing the same front intake as you have when i get my new fans! gunna be mean with 38mm sanyo denki's and 25mm shrouds!

Great build!


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd* 
Stock shin-etsu, I was going to pick up some of the same you mentioned but was reassured that the shin-etsu was very good TIM.

The ocz freeze brought my temps down by about 8c at full load compared to the stock h50 (shin-etsu)


----------



## XtachiX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
Good job, can I recommend some zip ties and perhaps change out that old IDE CD drive with a SATA one (only cost about 20)? That would really improve the look and airflow in your case.









thanks for your recommendation, i'll do it when i have time
this small thing keeps my temps really low compared to what i had (stock intel & gigabyte volar which is as good as Gigabyte 3D Rocket II)


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pedrosa* 
The ocz freeze brought my temps down by about 8c at full load compared to the stock h50 (shin-etsu)

Well, that really is a massive difference there I'm surprised tbh becasue ive seen alot of people praise shin-etsu and stating it is one of the best if not best TIM. Say now, how did you apply your OCZ freeze ? As that really makes a big difference aswel!
Think I might pick some of this up aswel then along with fans/new gpu etc


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Ok guys so undecided about new fans for my front intake push/pull setup for my H50.

Sanyo denki
http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/prod...oducts_id=1353

or
Scythe ultra kaze
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Scythe-Ultra-K...item5ad8eda0b2

Im hoping that some of you have either one of these and wonder how bareable the noise of them both are ? Been looking up on youtube trying to find reliable dba tests but ofc its going to be different to when they are installed in my rig.

Cheers!


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pedrosa* 
The ocz freeze brought my temps down by about 8c at full load compared to the stock h50 (shin-etsu)

Actually if you buy shin-etsu & re-apply with it.. it actually lowers more... that is what happened to me, I already had tested AC5, OCZ & MX3.. still shin-etsu re-applied did a better job instantly.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

ah right, so your basically saying that the amount and method to which the shin-etsu was applied to the H50 coolers heatsink isnt providing optimal heat dissipation ?
How did you reapply the Shin-etsu ?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd* 
Well, that really is a massive difference there I'm surprised tbh becasue ive seen alot of people praise shin-etsu and stating it is one of the best if not best TIM. Say now, how did you apply your OCZ freeze ? As that really makes a big difference aswel!
Think I might pick some of this up aswel then along with fans/new gpu etc

Google it first, MX2 or MX3 is clearly better. Problem with TIM H50 comes with is there is simply way too much of it on there (but the TIM itself is good). Wipe it off and clean with rubbing alcohol then re-apply whatever you wish. Temps will be better (not 8 degrees unless you messed somthing up, usually 1-2 degrees better).


----------



## sendblink23

@ R3aCt0r M|Nd

Cleaned with alcohol then I did an "X" in the center since I have a quad... it doesn't really need to be an X it coudl be a pea size drop.. any method works good.. just don't exagerate on TIM


----------



## pcnuttie

So what did you do on the quad? I think it'd be awesome to see each thermal paste test and how low temps go with it even at load. I would like to see apply methods too to see which improves better. I'm tempted to try a different thermal but my temps are great with the thermal it came with. It took 3 days to notice more drops.


----------



## chris14029

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
So what did you do on the quad? I think it'd be awesome to see each thermal paste test and how low temps go with it even at load. I would like to see apply methods too to see which improves better. I'm tempted to try a different thermal but my temps are great with the thermal it came with. It took 3 days to notice more drops.

i think its all a matter of opinion cuz we all say that the other is better


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
@ R3aCt0r M|Nd

Cleaned with alcohol then I did an "X" in the center since I have a quad... it doesn't really need to be an X it coudl be a pea size drop.. any method works good.. just don't exagerate on TIM

Aye! I have read that the "X" shape on the cpu is the way to go, I have some Isopropanol to clean with perhaps I shall get some more Shin-etsu then, I'm hoping with the new fans/intake setup and new TIM my temps "should" be even lower!


----------



## Bi2on

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
So what did you do on the quad? I think it'd be awesome to see each thermal paste test and how low temps go with it even at load. I would like to see apply methods too to see which improves better. I'm tempted to try a different thermal but my temps are great with the thermal it came with. It took 3 days to notice more drops.

Hey guys,

I found this to be a helpful source of information on topic: (And it is pretty much what pcnuttie is asking for isn't it?)








*80-way Thermal Interface Material Performance Test*








Beside actual test of 80 TIMs, they also talk a lot about preparation of surfaces, pressure and the way to apply the TIM.

My packages with IC Diamond and 3 tubes of Shin-Etsu should be arriving tomorrow in mail ... as well as ArctiClean solution ... seems like it will be a busy evening


----------



## Magus2727

Is there any performance increase in lapping the H50? If so how much?


----------



## SPEEDemon

Can I join? I have the Asetek 240mm LCLC. It's not exactly the Corsair H50 per-see, but it's pretty much exactly the same thing, just with a 240mm radiator, and it's made by Asetek, the same company that helped to design the H50.

Recently(after I took the picture) I've added 25mm shroud behind the two push fans, which has helped drop load temps by about 2 degree C.

You can buy it for around $90, not that much more than an H50.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Great little rig you have there buddy unfortunatly this is the H50 cooler club, aye ure right in the fact that they are both made by Asetek but are obviously both very different when it comes to cooling/modding etc
I do not think you would be able to join...
Not that I'm saying you CANNOT!! hehe

Cheers!


----------



## BVM

I was expecting my temps to go up after swapping my Apevia sniperX case with an Ultra eXo carbon fiber. The Ultra only has provisions for 1x120mm (intake), 1x80mm (side intake) & 1x120mm exhaust fan where the Apevia was running 3x120mm & 2x80mm. Surprisingly my temps stayed the same if not cooler! Though I did perform the push/pull mod. My 120mm & 80mm gaskets should arrive tomorrow so I have to pull it back apart yet again to add those.

I'll post up some better pics then.


----------



## chris14029

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SPEEDemon* 
Can I join? I have the Asetek 240mm LCLC. It's not exactly the Corsair H50 per-see, but it's pretty much exactly the same thing, just with a 240mm radiator, and it's made by Asetek, the same company that helped to design the H50.

Recently(after I took the picture) I've added 25mm shroud behind the two push fans, which has helped drop load temps by about 2 degree C.

You can buy it for around $90, not that much more than an H50.










its up to killhouse but i dont think so


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chris14029* 
its up to killhouse but i dont think so










No harm in it, its basically the same thing









Plus you are using some nice Trad^2's there, I likey!


----------



## scottath

Quote:

hmm - question time

With my ITX build (link in sig) im running my H50.

Currently im running:

120*38mm Scythe Ultra Kaze 2000rpm > 120*25mm shroud > H50 rad

this is too noisy for what i was expecting/wanting.

SO:

i did some googling (well i tried - im capped atm so its dam slow....dam aussie internet) and found this:
http://martin.skinneelabs.com/Radiat...ng-Review.html

which suggests that for a single 25mm fan its better to have it in pull with a ~30mm shroud at best.

My options:

*38mm
2000rpm Scythe Ultra Kaze
2 different sunon server based fans - very loud and inpracticle.

*25mm
110cfm (max) Scythe Slipstream (2000rpm?)
Nocta fan - pretty sure its a NF-S12-1200
Blue LED Generic fan
Coolermaster fans from CM690 (stock)
Lian li fans (from lian li v2010b stock)
stock corsair H50 fan

Usage:
As per my build (sig link)
ATM i have it running as exhaust - which i think is best
on of (atm) 3 fans in case - one in PSU, other is gfx card - so this fan will vent most of the cases heat
quiet
prefer not to have to control it i think

Which to choose?
thought id post this again - need some more opinions


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SPEEDemon* 









very nice looking rig


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scottath* 
thought id post this again - need some more opinions

Hey Scottath,

Ive gotta vote the Scythe UK 2000s. Ive got em, I love em.


----------



## scottath

thats what im using atm - its a bit loud :/
i know thats strange coming from me who had 18 fans in my system at one stage - but this system i want to be quiet.

using the fan controller that came with the lian li case - ive tried it at high/med/low and its still a bit loud.

im guessing that this is due to the fans proximity to the 24pin atx cable - which runs across the front of the fan - maybe removing the shroud will recify this.....

other option would be to:
rad > shroud > fan > case

but tubing will be interesting - and i will once again loose my second hdd.


----------



## Ragsters

I can't wait until Corsair comes out with their 240 ram version.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scottath* 
thats what im using atm - its a bit loud :/
i know thats strange coming from me who had 18 fans in my system at one stage - but this system i want to be quiet.

using the fan controller that came with the lian li case - ive tried it at high/med/low and its still a bit loud.

im guessing that this is due to the fans proximity to the 24pin atx cable - which runs across the front of the fan - maybe removing the shroud will recify this.....

other option would be to:
rad > shroud > fan > case

but tubing will be interesting - and i will once again loose my second hdd.


LOL... have you just answered your own question there?

rad > shroud > fan > case should be a suitable solution in exhaust

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
I can't wait until Corsair comes out with their 240 *ram* version.

RAM or rad? Methinks rad... yes it would be a nice step forward... if they match the pump to it.


----------



## scottath

yea - in exhaust - but in that config - i lose a HDD

have a look in my thread (Project: Back pocket) and you will see my issue.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scottath* 
yea - in exhaust - but in that config - i lose a HDD

have a look in my thread (Project: Back pocket) and you will see my issue.


It is rather cramped isnt it...

Options... try 110cfm (max) Scythe Slipstream (2000rpm?) or the coolermaster but only if its an R4. If its an Coolermaster A12025-12CB-3BN-F1, dont do it... they are rubbish.

Is there an option to use an external USB HD?


----------



## scottath

def isnt a R4.

there isnt a usb option as such - id want to get 2 drive internal as its faster and i dont have a external chassis.


----------



## Ceadderman

How bout Yate Loon 88cfm high flow fans? They come pretty well recommended in the HAF club and can be adjusted with your controller.And you can get them in LED flavors for about $10 US. You might google them there Mate.









Here's a part number if you're having difficulty. D12SL12 Not sure which speed those are but they were mentioned in the OCAU forums. I got the thread from my own productive Google search.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
It is rather cramped isnt it...

Options... try 110cfm (max) Scythe Slipstream (2000rpm?) or the coolermaster but only if its an R4. If its an Coolermaster A12025-12CB-3BN-F1, dont do it... they are rubbish.

Is there an option to use an external USB HD?

I dunno, I'm liking the sound of a RAM cooler.









But I would get a 240 Rad cooler if they came out with one. Only issue is dropping the stock 23cm at the top of my 932.









Okay nmd, I want the RAM cooler.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
LOL... have you just answered your own question there?

rad > shroud > fan > case should be a suitable solution in exhaust

RAM or rad? Methinks rad... yes it would be a nice step forward... if they match the pump to it.


----------



## scottath

id prefer not to buy anything - thats the reason for this build - to stop spending on my computer for a bit.

so its out of the fans i have.

i believe that slipstream fans fail for rads/tightly finned applications as they have a low static pressure.


----------



## Ceadderman

$10 mate, not much of a purchase. But I hear what you're saying.

I'm picking up 3 things above my overall purchase for the time being a YL 14cm High flow(ex.) and a 12cm High flow(int.) and a Lamptron FC-3B to dial in my flows. Off to my left my stockers are not bad. But adding 2 more and highflow and now off to my right is going to make a difference in db. I'm getting the YLs' in Red to increase the light inside my system cause CM are [email protected] and decided to skimp on the Red systems. I want people to be able to SEE my board in the windowpane. I can kind of see in there now but not to my satisfaction. The 14cm is going to the bottom of the H50.

case<fan<rad<YL

So $70 and shipping at the most.

Oh almost forgot go with the CM690 fan. CM has some decent flow fans the 690 issue shouldn't be any different. I can hear mine but that's cause they are right next to my head for the most part. As in off the floor and to the right by approximately 45cm off my shoulder. They aren't overly loud but adding 2 more is going to increase the sound.









Just have to wait for funds.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *scottath* 
id prefer not to buy anything - thats the reason for this build - to stop spending on my computer for a bit.

so its out of the fans i have.

i believe that slipstream fans fail for rads/tightly finned applications as they have a low static pressure.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scottath* 
thought id post this again - need some more opinions

From your fan list I don't see anything optimum. If you want to use a fan in pull then try to fit the biggest shroud you can. A gutted 38mm would probably be perfect. If you are going to spend some funds to make it work, then definitely get a Gentle Typhoon.


----------



## Andy.Yung

I'll soon be pickign up an H50 or 2 for a few i7 builds starting in the next weeks. I plan to set up the H50s with 2 Gentle Typhoon AP14's in push/pull. I'm also going to be running shrouds in-between.

My question to you guys is, do you think there would be a big benefit in using a 50mm shroud between each fan? Or is a 25mm shroud good enough.

Thanks!


----------



## digital_steve

Well, my H50 turned up today so i'll be installing it tonight
I also got some indigo extreme TIM (well, not really TIM... but you know what i mean) so it'll be interesting to see how it goes!


----------



## elson

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Andy.Yung* 
I'll soon be pickign up an H50 or 2 for a few i7 builds starting in the next weeks. I plan to set up the H50s with 2 Gentle Typhoon AP14's in push/pull. I'm also going to be running shrouds in-between.

My question to you guys is, do you think there would be a big benefit in using a 50mm shroud between each fan? Or is a 25mm shroud good enough.

Thanks!

I was reading a review done that showed 38mm was the sweet spot. I cant seem to find it right now though.


----------



## scottath

the think i linked earlier said that 40mm was the best i think (could have been 50) canot remember and im at uni - so limited downloads.....


----------



## Ceadderman

25cm should be more than acceptable. So long as it mates well between the fan and the Rad. The purpose of a shroud is to make better use of the airflow provided by the fan, not spread it out to a larger size.

At least that's what I think a shroud is for. Logically, it's to increase flow by backing the fan off of the mounting surface, thereby allowing the fan to work more efficiently.

If you gutted a dead 12cm fan and mated it in between a stock working fan you would achieve similar results.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Andy.Yung*


I'll soon be pickign up an H50 or 2 for a few i7 builds starting in the next weeks. I plan to set up the H50s with 2 Gentle Typhoon AP14's in push/pull. I'm also going to be running shrouds in-between.

My question to you guys is, do you think there would be a big benefit in using a 50mm shroud between each fan? Or is a 25mm shroud good enough.

Thanks!


----------



## Andy.Yung

Oh, I know what a shroud does. I have 2 builds with 25mm shrouds on my Venomous-X's. The only reason I'm thinking about bigger shrouds with this H50 setup is that I'd have the extra space to do so. In my Ven-X builds, I had room for (2) 25mm shrouds and nothing bigger


----------



## Ceadderman

Ahhhhh I understand now.










~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Andy.Yung*


Oh, I know what a shroud does. I have 2 builds with 25mm shrouds on my Venomous-X's. The only reason I'm thinking about bigger shrouds with this H50 setup is that I'd have the extra space to do so. In my Ven-X builds, I had room for (2) 25mm shrouds and nothing bigger


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*


Well, that really is a massive difference there I'm surprised tbh becasue ive seen alot of people praise shin-etsu and stating it is one of the best if not best TIM. Say now, how did you apply your OCZ freeze ? As that really makes a big difference aswel!
Think I might pick some of this up aswel then along with fans/new gpu etc


I used the method ocz recommends here:-
http://www.ocztechnology.com/display...zeInstructions
All i can say is that the mx-3 didn't work for me whichever way i applied it, and i tried all methods!
I would say get some shin-etsu & some ocz freeze(it's quite cheap) and see which one works best for you. Love to see your results!


----------



## PCSarge

im running OCZ Freeze aswell, the shin was too thick and i knew it, so i didnt bother to mount it,i tried mx-3 to have a failure idle temp of 32C hottest core, and now i did credit card spread w/ OCZ Freeze and my idle temp sits at 25C hottest core

on another note i found my old computer case (circa 1999) and mounted my poor little E7400/ 9600 GSO folding rig in it, as it only had a single 80mm exhaust, i mounted an R4 in the front cd drive area as intake, because it kept shutting down from heat( this case was not designed for hot parts)
anyways heres some pics of the fail case , ill post the fan mod later when i have better lighting to photo it... im not shutting it down its folding for me...
these are before the fan mod.... note the 2 CD drives... one is dead which is the one that came out to make room for the fan (bottom drive) the top one still works


----------



## GoTMaXPoWeR

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


im running OCZ Freeze aswell, the shin was too thick and i knew it, so i didnt bother to mount it,i tried mx-3 to have a failure idle temp of 32C hottest core, and now i did credit card spread w/ OCZ Freeze and my idle temp sits at 25C hottest core


Those temps seem really low, I'm running at 38/42c idle with a 4GHz overclock and I'm using the stock compound. Do i5's run cold or should I use different compound?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoTMaXPoWeR*


Those temps seem really low, I'm running at 38/42c idle with a 4GHz overclock and I'm using the stock compound. Do i5's run cold or should I use different compound?


theres too much compound on there stock, anything else will drop that temp a bit, no telling how much, and no, my i5 runs pretty hot @ a 4ghz overclock max load temp 65C 20 passes IBT on max


----------



## GoTMaXPoWeR

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


theres too much compound on there stock, anything else will drop that temp a bit, no telling how much, and no, my i5 runs pretty hot @ a 4ghz overclock max load temp 65C 20 passes IBT on max


It passes IBT at about 55/57c load. I'll probably end up replacing it with Freeze when I can get hold of some.


----------



## wazz

Just a question, I just got the Thermal Take V3 over the weekend and had the worst time mounting my H50 in it.. i tried top mount to the inside but the fan hit my ram . .tried the push / pull inside on the back but it hit the pump.. Finally i decided to go with mounting the rad and one fan against the back and putting the second fan on the exterior of the back but can only get two screwes through it.. i still get the same temps 33/31c idle and 40/38c under load but i cant get the side door to close all the way do to the fan.. anyone have a suggestion..







ill post pics when i get home from work this afternoon


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoTMaXPoWeR*


It passes IBT at about 55/57c load. I'll probably end up replacing it with Freeze when I can get hold of some.


Load temps look good, idle not so much. I get about 28 with 23 ambient, idling. Are you slowing the fans or pump at idle?


----------



## mak1skav

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Andy.Yung*


I'll soon be pickign up an H50 or 2 for a few i7 builds starting in the next weeks. I plan to set up the H50s with 2 Gentle Typhoon AP14's in push/pull. I'm also going to be running shrouds in-between.

My question to you guys is, do you think there would be a big benefit in using a 50mm shroud between each fan? Or is a 25mm shroud good enough.

Thanks!


I think 30-40mm is the optimum with probably 30mm being the best. Here is a link with a test to read and decide about shroud height

http://martin.skinneelabs.com/Radiat...ng-Review.html

Quoted from the review from that site

Quote:



It also appears the shroud depth of 30mm is nearly optimal in both push and pull, this was obviously designed at this depth for good reason.


----------



## KZISME

I'm thinking about buying this is i get a AMD 1055 looks like a nice product :O


----------



## Divine_Madcat

So, hopefully people don't mind me asking a "does this look right" question, but I am not sure myself, so i have to ask.

Right now, I am running a Phenom II 955 @ 
3.8Ghz
1.425v VCore
1.35v CPU-NB

Cooling this, I of course have an H50, cooled with a Scythe S-Flex F (pushing) and a Scythe "SLIP STREAM SLIM" Medium speed pulling (for space issues). Between the S-Flex and the rad is a TFC Xtender (31mm thick). The system is drawing air from the outside in as well. (The reason for the odd config is my Antec Nine hundred II case only has so much room.. with the 25mm fan and 31mm shroud, I only had room for a 12mm fan pulling).

So, the crux of my problem is this; my temps feel uncomfortably high. Before I have the above configuration, I had been using an Ultra Kaze (well, the equivalent made by JMC) pushing (no shroud) and the stock H50 fan pulling. With my system as above, a full load (prime 95) would push the temps up to 57-59C, which is way too high for the PII. After going to the new config, the load temps are only marginally better (55-57C), but much more silent.

Before i go through the pain of yanking off the H50 and reconnecting everything, I guess I am trying to gauge if these temps are normal for a properly setup system, or if it is seated wrongly, etc. The fan header shows the pump is going at the expected 1400RPM, and I don't hear any odd noises. Ambient at most in the house is 80F, and commonly lower.

Sorry for the long post.. any advice would rock!


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pedrosa* 
I used the method ocz recommends here:-
http://www.ocztechnology.com/display...zeInstructions
All i can say is that the mx-3 didn't work for me whichever way i applied it, and i tried all methods!
I would say get some shin-etsu & some ocz freeze(it's quite cheap) and see which one works best for you. Love to see your results!

Aye! I shall be getting some of the Shin-Etsu G-751, it has been rated the best in some rather extensive tests, OCZ freeze came out with a grade A, but this one had a A+ rating.

On another note Just wondering whats sort of size screws I am going to need for a 38mm fan with 25mm shroud ?
I have seen these 6-32 x 2 1/2 with a 2.8 socket size, so they are big enough at 63.5 mm in length to go through both fan and shroud, but was wondering on the socket size and width, do not want to buy some and realise I cannot screw them into the thread of the rad.

Cheers


----------



## -relk-

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd* 
Aye! I shall be getting some of the Shin-Etsu G-751, it has been rated the best in some rather extensive tests, OCZ freeze came out with a grade A, but this one had a A+ rating.

On another note Just wondering whats sort of size screws I am going to need for a 38mm fan with 25mm shroud ?
I have seen these 6-32 x 2 1/2 with a 2.8 socket size, so they are big enough at 63.5 mm in length to go through both fan and shroud, but was wondering on the socket size and width, do not want to buy some and realise I cannot screw them into the thread of the rad.

Cheers

I actually just picked up some screws yesterday for my push/pull. The screw size was 6-32 x 1 1/4 and it worked perfectly. I can't find the link as i am at work right now but hope this helps!


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Aye, I guess they will be suitable then, I need the longer length due to the extra length of these 38mm fans with shrouds.
Should be really good cannot wait to do some tests when all finally finished, it "should" Drop my temps by a rather large amount!


----------



## chris14029

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Hey Scottath,

Ive gotta vote the Scythe UK 2000s. Ive got em, I love em.

i got twto on the way should be here soon


----------



## chris14029

dose adding a shroud really really help? like how much of a temp drop do you get?


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

I found a drop of about 2 degrees on all cores, the 4th core was about 3 degrees.


----------



## Carfanatic

Just got my 2 Scythe GentleTyphoons today and installed did see an improvement even at idle of 4c it was at 34c with ambient outside PC 22c inside PC 29c . 100% load using prime95 with no OC and vCore of 1.25 gave me 44c with 22c room ambient and went up to 30c inside PC.

This is a lot better temps than I was getting for sure. I had everything stock but the lowered vCore and was getting 49-50c under load. Going to work on getting my OC back to around 4 and see what I get for temps.

Update got it to 4 OC used prime95 temps at 52c same ambients as above still seems a little high but better than before with no OC and getting close to the same temp.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Just got my 2 Scythe GentleTyphoons today and installed did see an improvement even at idle of 4c it was at 34c with ambient outside PC 22c inside PC 29c . 100% load using prime95 with no OC and vCore of 1.25 gave me 44c with 22c room ambient and went up to 30c inside PC.

This is a lot better temps than I was getting for sure. I had everything stock but the lowered vCore and was getting 49-50c under load. Going to work on getting my OC back to around 4 and see what I get for temps.

Update got it to 4 OC used prime95 temps at 52c same ambients as above still seems a little high but better than before with no OC and getting close to the same temp.

52c is really good m8 at 4ghz, im currently on 3.66 at stock VID (1.144) and getting 56,52,52,52 while running prime95 System is alot warmer at 34c compared to yours, but still you beat my temps hands down! Had a bit of a clean out this eve, my radiator loves compressed air! im going to be reseating the H50 with some fresh new Shin-etsu and mounting it as intake at the front!
crazy though, a little clean and I drop a few degrees from the other day, really cannot wait to post some new temps on here after new setup!


----------



## Willhemmens

H50's really are pretty good. Gotta love a full loop though, 36'c load on a hot day anyone?


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
H50's really are pretty good. Gotta love a full loop though, 36'c load on a hot day anyone?

I hear ya there! I loved my H50, and I'll definitely be putting one in another build for a customer I'm doing, but you couldn't pay me to give up my WC'ing I have now


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*


52c is really good m8 at 4ghz, im currently on 3.66 at stock VID (1.144) and getting 56,52,52,52 while running prime95 System is alot warmer at 34c compared to yours, but still you beat my temps hands down! Had a bit of a clean out this eve, my radiator loves compressed air! im going to be reseating the H50 with some fresh new Shin-etsu and mounting it as intake at the front!
crazy though, a little clean and I drop a few degrees from the other day, really cannot wait to post some new temps on here after new setup!


I7's run a lot hotter if I run my AMDPII965 at the max of an I7 it would fry it. 62c is the max recommend and I have my computer set to shut down if it reaches 63c


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I7's run a lot hotter if I run my AMDPII965 at the max of an I7 it would fry it. 62c is the max recommend and I have my computer set to shut down if it reaches 63c


Oh I see I did not realise that, I know certain processors differ in temps ofc but not a max of 62c for an amd 965, jesus thats quite low!


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I7's run a lot hotter if I run my AMDPII965 at the max of an I7 it would fry it. 62c is the max recommend and I have my computer set to shut down if it reaches 63c


Phenom II's solid. I've been upto 1.8V with mine.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I7's run a lot hotter if I run my AMDPII965 at the max of an I7 it would fry it. 62c is the max recommend and I have my computer set to shut down if it reaches 63c



Quote:



Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*


Oh I see I did not realise that, I know certain processors differ in temps ofc but not a max of 62c for an amd 965, jesus thats quite low!



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Phenom II's solid. I've been upto 1.8V with mine.


I'm @ 1.68v right now with my 920 (720 Unlocked). They're definitely solid!









AFAIK, the *official* max on my 720 is 73c, and even with such high vcore, I'm nowhere near that. THANK YOU DANGER DEN!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


dose adding a shroud really really help? like how much of a temp drop do you get?


Using shroud will drop your temps a couple of degrees due to negating the dead spot on the rad. It will also lower fan noise by virtue of reducing turbulence from the air hitting the rad.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd* 
52c is really good m8 at 4ghz, im currently on 3.66 at stock VID (1.144) and getting 56,52,52,52 while running prime95 System is alot warmer at 34c compared to yours, but still you beat my temps hands down! Had a bit of a clean out this eve, my radiator loves compressed air! im going to be reseating the H50 with some fresh new Shin-etsu and mounting it as intake at the front!
crazy though, a little clean and I drop a few degrees from the other day, really cannot wait to post some new temps on here after new setup!

yeah 52c is fine on full load for over 4Ghz on an AMD.. its similar to what I get when I'm at 4.21Ghz on my 965


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
yeah 52c is fine on full load for over 4Ghz on an AMD.. its similar to what I get when I'm at 4.21Ghz on my 965

I know it may be a little different with different motherboards but what is your vcore when you have it up to 4.21. I am at 1.525 and thought I had it stable at 4Ghz but it went blue screen when I had prime95 going and tried to open up another program.


----------



## bleedingRoue

Add me on the list. Just got mine about a week ago, it's a super easy install and it's very quite but I a little disappointed with the performance. I running at 3.8(200 x19) with 1.280 volts under load(according to cpuz) in a push pull configuration(Gelid 1500rpm push, Corsair stock fan pull) and hitting 80C on all cores. Then again it is about 27-28C ambient so I should prolly expect that.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
I know it may be a little different with different motherboards but what is your vcore when you have it up to 4.21. I am at 1.525 and thought I had it stable at 4Ghz but it went blue screen when I had prime95 going and tried to open up another program.

Actually it was that same vcore you just mentioned, you can still see my CPU-Z in my *sig at the end, it don't mention the correct vcore I had but I set it exactly to that 1.525 on my Bios.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
Actually it was that same vcore you just mentioned, you can still see my CPU-Z in my *sig at the end, it don't mention the correct vcore I had but I set it exactly to that 1.525 on my Bios.

I see you had to significantly lossen up your memory timings to get to 4.21 on your CPU. Not sure if the trade off performance wise would be worth that vs 4.017 Ghz with memory at 9 9 9 24. Food for thought.


----------



## Ceadderman

Add yourself. It's a Google doc.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *bleedingRoue*


Add me on the list. Just got mine about a week ago, it's a super easy install and it's very quite but I a little disappointed with the performance. I running at 3.8(200 x19) with 1.280 volts under load(according to cpuz) in a push pull configuration(Gelid 1500rpm push, Corsair stock fan pull) and hitting 80C on all cores. Then again it is about 27-28C ambient so I should prolly expect that.


----------



## waar

Hi, I had a complete noob question but i figured i'd ask before i start my build and not during (since i might need a part).

I recently received my H50, and I figured I'd do a push/pull config but I have no idea where I'd plug in my second fan. Fan controller? or is there such a thing as a splitter so I can plug both to the CPU Fan or is there anywhere else I'd plug it in? I'm going to have the rest of the fans on a fan controller BTW.

also, what would be some good fans for the push/pull config?

sorry if all that was a noob question lol


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:



Originally Posted by *waar*


Hi, I had a complete noob question but i figured i'd ask before i start my build and not during (since i might need a part).

I recently received my H50, and I figured I'd do a push/pull config but I have no idea where I'd plug in my second fan. Fan controller? or is there such a thing as a splitter so I can plug both to the CPU Fan or is there anywhere else I'd plug it in? I'm going to have the rest of the fans on a fan controller BTW.

also, what would be some good fans for the push/pull config?

sorry if all that was a noob question lol


good fans, my advice : scythe gentle typhoon a-15 (1850rpm) ~ $ 15 a piece here

fan header question: if you dont have them on the board, and your controller is strong enough, grab a y adapter which is usually available everywhere ~ $ 2 bucks example here


----------



## waar

wow, that was quick.

so you'd suggest to plug them into the fan controller? or board? my fan controller is a scythe kaze master ace

thanks for the fans suggestion!


----------



## hitman1985

Quote:



Originally Posted by *waar*


wow, that was quick.

so you'd suggest to plug them into the fan controller? or board? my fan controller is a scythe kaze master ace

thanks for the fans suggestion!


if you run the typhoons, id run them of a controller or of the psu straight (4 pin peripheral) to save money, you wont hear these fans even on full speed.


----------



## waar

thanks, i'll run them on the fan controller then

super excited to start my first build soon


----------



## elson

Im out of the club fellas. traded in my H50 for a Venomous-X. I will miss it dearly


----------



## BVM

Here are the newest pics of my H50 installation. The gaskets came in today and I was able to get them installed. After that and a clean up of my wiring my PC refused to POST. No beep & blank screen. So I started the basic pre-video POST diagnostic with the typical isolate/re-seat. Nadda! I then jumped the CMOS to clear it and it worked just fine afterward. Anyway pics!


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*


On another note Just wondering whats sort of size screws I am going to need for a 38mm fan with 25mm shroud ?
I have seen these 6-32 x 2 1/2 with a 2.8 socket size, so they are big enough at 63.5 mm in length to go through both fan and shroud, but was wondering on the socket size and width, do not want to buy some and realise I cannot screw them into the thread of the rad.
Cheers


Do you mean the ones from here:-
http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/unc_cap_screws.htm
I purchased some from there and they are allen key socket. They screwed into rad just fine.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
I see you had to significantly lossen up your memory timings to get to 4.21 on your CPU. Not sure if the trade off performance wise would be worth that vs 4.017 Ghz with memory at 9 9 9 24. Food for thought.









Also consider stepping down your *extreme* CPU overclock just a notch or two, and UP YOUR NB AND HTLINK SPEEDS!

They have a DRAMATIC IMPACT on your CPU AND OVERALL System speed


----------



## ThirdLap

Quote:


Originally Posted by *elson* 
Im out of the club fellas. traded in my H50 for a Venomous-X. I will miss it dearly









How are your temps looking with the VX?


----------



## Divine_Madcat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Divine_Madcat* 
So, hopefully people don't mind me asking a "does this look right" question, but I am not sure myself, so i have to ask.

Right now, I am running a Phenom II 955 @
3.8Ghz
1.425v VCore
1.35v CPU-NB

Cooling this, I of course have an H50, cooled with a Scythe S-Flex F (pushing) and a Scythe "SLIP STREAM SLIM" Medium speed pulling (for space issues). Between the S-Flex and the rad is a TFC Xtender (31mm thick). The system is drawing air from the outside in as well. (The reason for the odd config is my Antec Nine hundred II case only has so much room.. with the 25mm fan and 31mm shroud, I only had room for a 12mm fan pulling).

So, the crux of my problem is this; my temps feel uncomfortably high. Before I have the above configuration, I had been using an Ultra Kaze (well, the equivalent made by JMC) pushing (no shroud) and the stock H50 fan pulling. With my system as above, a full load (prime 95) would push the temps up to 57-59C, which is way too high for the PII. After going to the new config, the load temps are only marginally better (55-57C), but much more silent.

Before i go through the pain of yanking off the H50 and reconnecting everything, I guess I am trying to gauge if these temps are normal for a properly setup system, or if it is seated wrongly, etc. The fan header shows the pump is going at the expected 1400RPM, and I don't hear any odd noises. Ambient at most in the house is 80F, and commonly lower.

Sorry for the long post.. any advice would rock!









So, I really do hate quoting myself, but I am at a loss here, and still looking for help.

Since making the previous post, I yanked out the H50, and lapped the block which showed there were some ridges (lapped with 800, 1500, and 2000 grit, wet and dry).

I also reworked the fans so that now i can fit two 25mm thick fans; so now its the S-Flex F pushing, and the stock H50 fan pulling (with a shroud on the S-Flex).

But no matter what, the temps are still high. The system still idles at 36-38 (the room is nowhere near that hot), and the loads can still get up to 56 on a prime run. I know I am seeing other PhII systems clocked the same with lower temps, so I am at a total loss.


----------



## kcuestag

Hope you like it









The picture is few days old, right now I have the H50's radiator in the DVD bays intaking some fresh air


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:

So, I really do hate quoting myself, but I am at a loss here, and still looking for help.

Since making the previous post, I yanked out the H50, and lapped the block which showed there were some ridges (lapped with 800, 1500, and 2000 grit, wet and dry).

I also reworked the fans so that now i can fit two 25mm thick fans; so now its the S-Flex F pushing, and the stock H50 fan pulling (with a shroud on the S-Flex).

But no matter what, the temps are still high. The system still idles at 36-38 (the room is nowhere near that hot), and the loads can still get up to 56 on a prime run. I know I am seeing other PhII systems clocked the same with lower temps, so I am at a total loss.
did you lap the cpu itself as well? if you just lap the h50, it wont do any good if the other side isnt flat either. How did you lap it? did you take the bottom copper plate off or did you just hold the whole pump against sandpaper?
what are you using for TIM? How do you have the h50 mounted on the cpu? I noticed because if you mount it at a diagonal, then the surface of the h50 will not be on the cpu. Meaning: its not square with each other. There will be gaps where the screws are that will not be in contact with the cpu. So try and line it up so that the cpu is covered by the whole center. (hope that isnt confusing).

I think a problem is you having a 12mm fan. Its not going to be as strong as a CM R4 or even an Ultra kaze. you can mount a fan outside of the case. fan>case>shroud>rad>shroud>fan.


----------



## ThirdLap

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Divine_Madcat*


Phenom II 955
3.8Ghz
1.425v VCore
1.35v CPU-NB

full load (prime 95) would push the temps up to 57-59C, which is way too high for the PII. After going to the new config, the load temps are only marginally better (55-57C), but much more silent.

Ambient at most in the house is 80F


I've noticed that the H50 is quite sensitive to changes in ambient temps. I wouldn't be at all surprised if you saw a 5-7Â°C drop if the tests were performed at ~68-70Â°F.

I've just downclocked my 720BE (X4) to 3.5GHz/1.4v and I'm running P95 at an ambient room temp of 71Â°F. With high-speed Yate-Loons in push/pull (as well as 6 other fans), I'm seeing a max load temp of 45Â°C.

On very hot days, however, load temps seem to go up proportionately with increases in ambient temps (e.g., if room temps were to increase to 80Â°F, load temps would likely be in the low 50s).


----------



## Luass Hole

Whats the point of getting two gentle typhoons for a push/pull when all you need is one to push(cause of the high static pressure) and then use some generic fan running at 1800 rpm for pull? Just wondering b4 I drop 30 dollars on 2. I'd rather spend 15 and still get the same results if possible.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ThirdLap*


I've noticed that the H50 is quite sensitive to changes in ambient temps. I wouldn't be at all surprised if you saw a 5-7Â°C drop if the tests were performed at ~68-70Â°F.


Not to be critical on this statement, but shouldn't the H50 be the same if not a little less sensitive to air temps then regular Air coolers?


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Luass Hole*


Whats the point of getting two gentle typhoons for a push/pull when all you need is one to push(cause of the high static pressure) and then use some generic fan running at 1800 rpm for pull? Just wondering b4 I drop 30 dollars on 2. I'd rather spend 15 and still get the same results if possible.


You can increase the static pressure and air flow by having a push pull configuration.

If you have a big box your trying to push , you may be strong enough to move it at the speed you "want" but it will be more stress on you then if you had some one equal strength pulling the box at the same time. You will be able to move it faster, and will have less stress doing it.


----------



## ThirdLap

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Not to be critical on this statement, but shouldn't the H50 be the same if not a little less sensitive to air temps then regular Air coolers?


Good point, however it stands to reason that it would work both ways. That is, if given several hours to heat up (due to an exceptionally warm room) the water would retain the heat and subsequently take far longer to cool down than a traditional metal-finned air cooler.

Although, I may be completely off here. Someone with more experience in thermodynamics could probably shed some light.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

ambient temps due in fact affect the h50 just as much. 
Warmer air blowing to cool the rad vs cooler air dissipating heat from the rad. 
My room temps are like 80F and my idle temps are 34C and full load 45C. Oc'd 3.57ghz 1.45v. And oh do I like when its winter time, temperatures are even better


----------



## Divine_Madcat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


ambient temps due in fact affect the h50 just as much. 
Warmer air blowing to cool the rad vs cooler air dissipating heat from the rad. 
My room temps are like 80F and my idle temps are 34C and full load 45C. Oc'd 3.57ghz 1.45v. And oh do I like when its winter time, temperatures are even better










I would kill for those load temps. No matter what I do, I cannot get my 955 (3.8 @ 1.425v) under 56-58C full load. I have lapped the block, tried multiple fan configs... nothing helps.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

thanks







ya i have mine modded though. lapped block and cpu, and pressure mod.


----------



## Divine_Madcat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


thanks







ya i have mine modded though. lapped block and cpu, and pressure mod.


Can i ask about the pressure mod - I haven't come across that yet (and I cant say i really want to lap my CPU, though I may have to...)


----------



## elson

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ThirdLap*


How are your temps looking with the VX?


Max temps dropped from 1-5C and gaming temps dropped about 8-10C, But I do have a more powerful fan on this than I did my H50.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:



Can i ask about the pressure mod - I haven't come across that yet (and I cant say i really want to lap my CPU, though I may have to...)


well basically you get rid of the plastic backplate. What I did was: I took the silver metal plate that came with my asus motherboard and ground down the standoffs just a tad till the h50 spacers fit flush over them and against the mobo. What you then do is thread a screw from the back of the motherboard up through the h50 spacers and use a washer and nut to tighten down from the top. Instead of being limited to the threads on the screw that comes with the h50, you now can add more pressure by using the nut and washer. 
If you dont have a backplate likt that, make sure you just use a washer of some sort on the mobo.

nut-washer-h50 spacer-h50 ring-mobo-washer(metal backplate)-screw.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Divine_Madcat*


I would kill for those load temps. No matter what I do, I cannot get my 955 (3.8 @ 1.425v) under 56-58C full load. I have lapped the block, tried multiple fan configs... nothing helps.


What is your ambient temp like? Not really a vaild comparison but my 965 C3 at 3.8 Ghz, 1.35 volts with a 20C ambient idles at 26 C. Max load after 3 hours Prime 95 is 43 C.


----------



## Divine_Madcat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
What is your ambient temp like? Not really a vaild comparison but my 965 C3 at 3.8 Ghz, 1.35 volts with a 20C ambient idles at 26 C. Max load after 3 hours Prime 95 is 43 C.










I guess i will need to do an official measurement, but from the local thermostat, It cant be much more than 75-80F (at most) (the therm is set to 70F). I know the idle temp is commonly a bit higher than ambient, but 20F more seems like way too much.

The other thing that i don't like, is how fast the temp jumps. If i start up prime, in under two seconds, it will go from 36-38C to 48-49C. Is that normal for this system?


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pedrosa* 
Do you mean the ones from here:-
http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/unc_cap_screws.htm
I purchased some from there and they are allen key socket. They screwed into rad just fine.

Aye! thats the site right there, shall be getting a 10 pack, 63.5mm shud be fine for 25mm shroud+38mm fan.
Great little site that and they accept paypal!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 


Hope you like it









The picture is few days old, right now I have the H50's radiator in the DVD bays intaking some fresh air









Say now, how did you attach the push/pull setup in your drivebay ? I'm intending on going with rather fat cable ties!


----------



## Luass Hole

Torn between these two fans. Opinions please:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185092

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185053


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
What is your ambient temp like? Not really a vaild comparison but my 965 C3 at 3.8 Ghz, 1.35 volts with a 20C ambient idles at 26 C. Max load after 3 hours Prime 95 is 43 C.









Damn, you've got nice temperatures there.. I'm running 3,8Ghz right now @ 1.344v and it's at 35ÂºC just surfing and msn (Skype and steam on background).

Do you think they're too high :/ ?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd* 

Say now, how did you attach the push/pull setup in your drivebay ? I'm intending on going with rather fat cable ties!

I simply used zip-ties and took 2 corners from each fan and tied them to both sides of the case, and it's fine.

However I must say that in my case, I didnot get any temperature decrease, it's same I would say, very weird, before I had it exhaust and now in front intake, should be better, I don't know why it's not, i might consider buying some proper thermal paste (I have the stock one), coz I think something must be wrong.

What do you guys think?


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Luass Hole*


Torn between these two fans. Opinions please:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185092

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185053


Go for the Scythe UK 2000, they are 38mm and will generally have a higher static pressure rating, the GT's only have like a rated 20pa whish isnt that great for rads.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Damn, you've got nice temperatures there.. I'm running 3,8Ghz right now @ 1.344v and it's at 35ÂºC just surfing and msn (Skype and steam on background).

Do you think they're too high :/ ?

I simply used zip-ties and took 2 corners from each fan and tied them to both sides of the case, and it's fine.

However I must say that in my case, I didnot get any temperature decrease, it's same I would say, very weird, before I had it exhaust and now in front intake, should be better, I don't know why it's not, i might consider buying some proper thermal paste (I have the stock one), coz I think something must be wrong.

What do you guys think?


That is strange, Should defo be seeing some type of drop in temps. Not taking the piss or anything but are the fans both set as intake ? Is there anything which could be supplying the new setup with heat ? Tv or something in front of intake of the pc etc, did you reseat the H50 but not reapply fresh thermal compound ? Is there any kinks in the hose from pump to rad ? 
Would have thought you would be seeing some lower temps for sure!
I bleeding well hope I do!

Oh on another note, the stock TIM is Shin-etsu and it is really good TIM, but alas they have just put too much on it. A fresh reapplication and the appropiate amount of the same stuff will actually drop your temps.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*


That is strange, Should defo be seeing some type of drop in temps. Not taking the piss or anything but are the fans both set as intake ? Is there anything which could be supplying the new setup with heat ? Tv or something in front of intake of the pc etc, did you reseat the H50 but not reapply fresh thermal compound ? Is there any kinks in the hose from pump to rad ? 
Would have thought you would be seeing some lower temps for sure!
I bleeding well hope I do!


Maybe it could take hit from my monitor. The fans are both intaking.

Here:



I have it like that right now, I put my hand between case and monitor but don't notice any heat... What do you think can be wrong?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Divine_Madcat*


I guess i will need to do an official measurement, but from the local thermostat, It cant be much more than 75-80F (at most) (the therm is set to 70F). I know the idle temp is commonly a bit higher than ambient, but 20F more seems like way too much.

The other thing that i don't like, is how fast the temp jumps. If i start up prime, in under two seconds, it will go from 36-38C to 48-49C. Is that normal for this system?


The jump is normal but after the initial jump it should slowly ramp up to its max temp.


----------



## Divine_Madcat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


The jump is normal but after the initial jump it should slowly ramp up to its max temp.


OK, feel a little better; that is what it does.

I hate being so experienced, but my last system was a full watercooling get up, so the change here is a little disconcerting. I had a JPI Performance OTIS rad, VIA 1300 pump, etc... until the acrylic block literally shattered and hosed my system down. After that, i figured I would keep it simpler.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Maybe it could take hit from my monitor. The fans are both intaking.

Here:



I have it like that right now, I put my hand between case and monitor but don't notice any heat... What do you think can be wrong?

Well, I know my screen does produce a fair bit of heat and where your pc is placed it would by the looks of things intake that heat from the screens. But for it to be almost around the same temps as exhaust is quite surprising. Tbh I really wouldnt know what else to advise.
Perhaps anyone else here have any clues ?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Damn, you've got nice temperatures there.. I'm running 3,8Ghz right now @ 1.344v and it's at 35ÂºC just surfing and msn (Skype and steam on background).

Do you think they're too high :/ ?

I simply used zip-ties and took 2 corners from each fan and tied them to both sides of the case, and it's fine.

However I must say that in my case, I didnot get any temperature decrease, it's same I would say, very weird, before I had it exhaust and now in front intake, should be better, I don't know why it's not, i might consider buying some proper thermal paste (I have the stock one), coz I think something must be wrong.

What do you guys think?

I used MX2 on mine. Have it set-up in the front drive bays as well with 2 X 25mm shrouds and 2 X Ultra Kaze 2000 rpm fans in push/pull. When I'm on Skype or surfing temps climb quickly to about 31-33 C. Idle means exactly that, computer has no programs running on it except temp monitor and background virus protection etc. Just moving the mouse will cause the temps to jump up a few degrees.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd* 
Well, I know my screen does produce a fair bit of heat and where your pc is placed it would by the looks of things intake that heat from the screens. But for it to be almost around the same temps as exhaust is quite surprising. Tbh I really wouldnt know what else to advise.
Perhaps anyone else here have any clues ?

I would certainly agree. You won't be able to discern a few degrees difference from simply putting your hand there. I'd say your monitors are causing at least 2-3 degree rise in temps for your intake (my WAG). Also make sure your rear exhuast has some room to exhaust. It looks pretty close to your wall. try moving your PC to the floor where it's usually a bit cooler and see what happens.


----------



## Kaankin

Well I will be in the club soon enough UPS just dropped off my H50!







I got to say the pump is bigger than in the pictures I've been seeing. I won't install it until the weekend since I need my computer for work(work from home) I also bought the GTX 470 which I will install in the weekend as well. Can't wait!









Oh and I also got the Dell U2711, now that is what I'm most excited about which will be here on Friday!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
I would certainly agree. You won't be able to discern a few degrees difference from simply putting your hand there. I'd say your monitors are causing at least 2-3 degree rise in temps for your intake (my WAG). Also make sure your rear exhuast has some room to exhaust. It looks pretty close to your wall. try moving your PC to the floor where it's usually a bit cooler and see what happens.









Yeah, I was planning to move it to the floor but I love looking from time to time to the insde of the case :/

I think there is enough space for the rear fan to exhaust heat, there is almost 10cm.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kaankin* 
Well I will be in the club soon enough UPS just dropped off my H50!







I got to say the pump is bigger than in the pictures I've been seeing. I won't install it until the weekend since I need my computer for work(work from home) I also bought the GTX 470 which I will install in the weekend as well. Can't wait!









Oh and I also got the Dell U2711, now that is what I'm most excited about which will be here on Friday!

You better give us some pictures of all the packages (H50 ,GTX470, monitor..).

Cheers


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kaankin* 
Well I will be in the club soon enough UPS just dropped off my H50!







I got to say the pump is bigger than in the pictures I've been seeing. I won't install it until the weekend since I need my computer for work(work from home) I also bought the GTX 470 which I will install in the weekend as well. Can't wait!









Oh and I also got the Dell U2711, now that is what I'm most excited about which will be here on Friday!

Big GZ! Hopefully you will not be dissapointed







GTX 470 eh ? didnt fancy the 5870 then for around the same bucks but with better performance ?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kaankin* 
Well I will be in the club soon enough UPS just dropped off my H50!







I got to say the pump is bigger than in the pictures I've been seeing. I won't install it until the weekend since I need my computer for work(work from home) I also bought the GTX 470 which I will install in the weekend as well. Can't wait!









Oh and I also got the Dell U2711, now that is what I'm most excited about which will be here on Friday!

Nice monitor, you'll need that card to power it. As a gamer, I'd be concerned over the high lag time plus the price vs subjective increase in image quality is just not justified...as a gamer that is. Of course if you do graphic work that may be another matter.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd* 
Big GZ! Hopefully you will not be dissapointed







GTX 470 eh ? didnt fancy the 5870 then for around the same bucks but with better performance ?

I would have gone 5870 as well or 5970 if you want to be crazy.


----------



## Kaankin

I did consider ATI cards but the 470 was cheaper than the 5870 and for the graphics work that I want to fool around with I needed the 470.
As for the monitor I've read mixed reviews for gaming, right now I only game WoW, Dragonage and a little Crysis. I got the monitor at a good price so couldn't pass on it.

H50
I will see how the stock paste works for me, if i see to high of a spike, I will change, will see till the weekend.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Luass Hole* 
Torn between these two fans. Opinions please:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185092

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185053

Not much between them, temps will be very close if not identical. I calculated that the UK2k is good for about +3cfm over the AP-15. Considering the extra size and noise, I'll stick with the GTs.

And on another note... going custom loop in the next couple weeks.


----------



## fssbzz

UK 2000s are 38mm = better airflow then GT, better Static pressure then GT, cheap but just a little bit loud.
thicker shroud + deeper blade push way more air vs to GT 15.

GT 15 = good airflow & silent but expensive.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fssbzz* 
UK 2000s are 38mm = better airflow then GT, better Static pressure then GT, cheap but just a little bit loud.
thicker shroud + deeper blade push way more air vs to GT 15.

GT 15 = good airflow & silent but expensive.


Martin tested both the GT AP-15 and the UK3k.

The UK3k will turn 2k rpm at ~7.5volts (look it up on the graph). Play the UK3k video until the red meter reads 7volts and write down the cfm (red/black meter). Continue to 8volts and write down the cfm again. Average the two cfm you just wrote down. That's the approximate amount of air the UK2k can push through a rad at 2000rpm. Play the video for the GT and when the meter on the right reads 12volts write down the cfm the AP-15 can push through a rad. Need I say more. Also listen to the UK3k at say 7volts and the AP-15 at 12volts... you decide.

Edit: TFC Triebwerk TK-122 video by Martin


----------



## fssbzz

the graph shows that UK 3000s are 2000RPM no 7.5V
he change 1 to 1 voltage.
is hard to measure between 7~8V.
so let me do this calculation.
UK 3000s 7V = 31 CFM
UK 3000s 8V = 39.2 CFM

(39.2-31)/2 = UK 3000s 7.5V RPM(mid point between 7~8V) = 4.1CFM more.
so i take 31CFM [7V] + 4.1CFM = 35.1CFM [7.5V/2000RPM]

35.1CFM vs GT15 12V 31.6CFM
Price/performance of course UK2000 win
Performances/noise GT 15 win on noise of course but the price is expensive & performances,i don't think it win UK2000.

now static pressure btw GT 15 vs UK 2000
look at the graph from *Scythe itself*

















and now u choose


----------



## looser101

Specs are specs for all they are worth... in the end, the proof is in the testing (with a rad). I can assure you that the quality of the GT is considerably better and worth every penny I paid for them. For price/performance I would choose the CM R4 not the UK2k.

I have personally tried all these fans. If you think ~3.5cfm creates a drastic temp difference, then you owe it to yourself to try other good fans like I did.

I did choose... it's in my sig.

Edit: At least Nidec (GT) provides P/Q graphs. Most manufacturers spec static pressure at 0 air flow. A P/Q graph shows the static pressure at various air flows. Since our fans never see 0 cfm we are more interested in the static pressure at a given cfm. Anybody have a P/Q graph for the UK? What's the actual static pressure of the UK at meaningful flows, like we see?


----------



## digital_steve

Are you guys mostly running as intake or exhaust?
I'm about to setup my stock H50 and can't decide wether to run it as intake or exhaust... exhaust seems to make more sense.


----------



## TheLastPriest

So I think my H50 is dying...LOL not really, but I have noticed, when I first hooked it up I got down to 26Â°c Idle and about 38Â°c Load, now about 3 months later in the same ambients I am getting an idle temp around 35Â°c and load around 47Â°c, nothing has changed in my setup, but the temps have surely increased. Any ideas?


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


Are you guys mostly running as intake or exhaust?
I'm about to setup my stock H50 and can't decide wether to run it as intake or exhaust... exhaust seems to make more sense.


It works best when the lowest temp air flows through the rad. If your vid card dumps all its heat to the back of the case then you are usually better to have it as exhaust so you don't suck in all that heated air. On the other hand if your vid card dumps heated air inside the case then probably intake would be best. This is just a rule of thumb, testing is recommended if you are not getting the results expected.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheLastPriest*


So I think my H50 is dying...LOL not really, but I have noticed, when I first hooked it up I got down to 26Â°c Idle and about 38Â°c Load, now about 3 months later in the same ambients I am getting an idle temp around 35Â°c and load around 47Â°c, nothing has changed in my setup, but the temps have surely increased. Any ideas?


Clean the rad?


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Specs are specs for all they are worth... in the end, the proof is in the testing (with a rad). I can assure you that the quality of the GT is considerably better and worth every penny I paid for them. For price/performance I would choose the CM R4 not the UK2k.

I have personally tried all these fans. If you think ~3.5cfm creates a drastic temp difference, then you owe it to yourself to try other good fans like I did.

I did choose... it's in my sig.

Edit: At least Nidec (GT) provides P/Q graphs. Most manufacturers spec static pressure at 0 air flow. A P/Q graph shows the static pressure at various air flows. Since our fans never see 0 cfm we are more interested in the static pressure at a given cfm. Anybody have a P/Q graph for the UK? What's the actual static pressure of the UK at meaningful flows, like we see?


meh i tried CM R4.
move quite alot of air but not more then UK2000.
is loud, not as quite as what it's mention.
i might try GT, but always prefer 38mm fan.
if you say spec are spec.
and you tried those fan before.
take a screen shot of the temp you get for GT & UK or it never happen.

edit:*
UK 2000 actual airflow 87.63 CFM*
GT 15 is 98 m3/H

1 m3/h = 0.58857 CFM
98*0.58857 = 57CFM

the actual airflow from *GT 15 is only 57 CFM.*


----------



## TheLastPriest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Clean the rad?


I just sprayed it out with air, maybe I wasn't thorough enough. Also has anyone looked into if heat from the gpu leeches into the lines between the rad and block, I have my lines curved down and they are just a few inches from the top of my 5870.


----------



## Ceadderman

Or you could be like us HAF 932 guys and make it exhaust at the top of the Case where it doesn't matter. We do have 2 stock 23cm fans pouring air into the system and one 23cm and one 14cm fan exhausting it. Adding the equivalent of 1 24cm(push/pull) wouldn't negatively impact static pressure. Actually with all the venting in this case it should increase flow somewhat through the front of the unoccupied device bays. I have to dust the front of my case almost daily.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


It works best when the lowest temp air flows through the rad. If your vid card dumps all its heat to the back of the case then you are usually better to have it as exhaust so you don't suck in all that heated air. On the other hand if your vid card dumps heated air inside the case then probably intake would be best. This is just a rule of thumb, testing is recommended if you are not getting the results expected.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


meh i tried CM R4.
move quite alot of air but not more then UK2000.
is loud, not as quite as what it's mention.
i might try GT, but always prefer 38mm fan.
if you say spec are spec.
and you tried those fan before.
take a screen shot of the temp you get for GT & UK or it never happen.


Not sure I ever saved any of my UK2k tests, I have to look. I posted lots of other tests in this thread if you search. If I didn't save a test it was because I didn't see anything in it worth saving.

Edit:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


edit:
UK 2000 actual airflow 87.63 CFM
GT 15 is 98 m3/H

1 m3/h = 0.58857 CFM
98*0.58857 = 57CFM

the actual airflow from GT 15 is only 57 CFM.


Those are 0 static pressure air flows. Great if you are looking for a case fan (ie. no backpressure) but a useless metric when you are trying to figure how much air you can push through a rad, which causes considerable restriction.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheLastPriest*


I just sprayed it out with air, maybe I wasn't thorough enough. Also has anyone looked into if heat from the gpu leeches into the lines between the rad and block, I have my lines curved down and they are just a few inches from the top of my 5870.


Hmmmm....what was your ambient temperature 3 months ago compared to now? H50 performance is directly related to ambient temp.


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Not sure I ever saved any of my UK2k tests, I have to look. I posted lots of other tests in this thread if you search. If I didn't save a test it was because I didn't see anything in it worth saving.

Edit:

Those are 0 static pressure air flows. Great if you are looking for a case fan (ie. no backpressure) but a useless metric when you are trying to figure how much air you can push through a rad, which causes considerable restriction.


hehe. erm, don't really get what u mean.
but if you think GT 15 are good that's good for you.
i will still stick with the fact.
UK 2000 = best price /performance
GT 15 = best price /noise.


----------



## looser101

I still have the UK2k but I doubt I will test them again. Next project is my custom loop. Don't get me wrong... there is nothing wrong with those fans. They are great for the price. I still recommend them along with the R4s and GTs.


----------



## whood886

im about to buy a h50 and im gonna mount it in a cooler master haf 932 and i have been looking around and it looks like the best way to mount it is a push and pull in the 3.5 drive bays and with the air sucking in from the front. would you all agree about this? ok so heres my main question how are you mounting it in the drive bays? thanks for the advice.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *whood886*


im about to buy a h50 and im gonna mount it in a cooler master haf 932 and i have been looking around and it looks like the best way to mount it is a push and pull in the 3.5 drive bays and with the air sucking in from the front. would you all agree about this? ok so heres my main question how are you mounting it in the drive bays? thanks for the advice.


cable ties


----------



## Turgin

Finally got the H50. Its been on my list of upgrades for months and I finally have one.

Just waiting for my San Ace H101 to get here in the next few days and I'll install it. I plan to put it in place of the frontmost 230mm top fan in my ATCS 840 as exhaust with the H101 as a push fan and I have two gutted 120x25 fans for a 50mm shroud. May be able to get my hands on a 38mm Delta (just too loud IMO) from work if we scrap some equipment to test with a smaller shroud.

I do have the two S Flex G fans that are on my Hyper 212+ but I found the H101's in stock at Newark and just couldn't resist. I'm hoping the single H101 as push will outperform a push/pull setup with the Scythes. Is it even worth testing the two S Flex's? Opinons?

I have a question about what screws I'll need. I've done some searching of this thread regarding this, but haven't found the answer yet. How much thread depth is needed for the rad? I know its a 6-32 screw and I would need 88mm of length for the shroud + fan, but how much do I add for the rad itself? Or, is it easier to just screw the shroud to the rad with shorter 6-32 screws and then use standard fan screws to attach the fan to the shroud?


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


cable ties










 I see your case is now custom painted... how does it look? : D

Btw, nice-looking avatar photo


----------



## TheLastPriest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Hmmmm....what was your ambient temperature 3 months ago compared to now? H50 performance is directly related to ambient temp.










Same, I keep my house at a constant 80Â°f-85Â°f, year round, I much prefer the warmth, and my son refuses to wear anything but his diaper and wont sleep with a blanket so the ambients dont change stays nice and toasty


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
It works best when the lowest temp air flows through the rad. If your vid card dumps all its heat to the back of the case then you are usually better to have it as exhaust so you don't suck in all that heated air. On the other hand if your vid card dumps heated air inside the case then probably intake would be best. This is just a rule of thumb, testing is recommended if you are not getting the results expected.

The 5970 dumps all it's hot air out the back, so exhaust setup it is!
Thanks mate


----------



## 00Smurf

Working on a new build. Managed to squeeze the h50 in their with a little modding. I wish they made a matx lga1366 board. As of now, I'm rocking an 1090t x6 in it. With 2 cooler master r4's (couldn't find the blue led ones) I'm getting 4.2ghz @1.4375 volts 23C Idle/47 Load.

Pics:


----------



## kcuestag

Doesn't that rig run too hot in that case?

Even so, congratulations, I like that mod, small case, but huge quality componentes inside, congratulations, I love it!


----------



## Jocelyn84

Just picked up another H50 for a new i3 build.


----------



## KoukiFC3S

Top mounted H50 with 2 gentle typhoons and a shroud. Bad idea?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KoukiFC3S* 
Top mounted H50 with 2 gentle typhoons and a shroud. Bad idea?










Not a bad idea. But why not run your 23cm up there AND the H50 with 2 Typhoons?







?

I would also set your in/out turned in to face your MoBo and mount it in the 120 spot unter the I/O panel. It'll fit.









Oh my bad, I thought I was looking at a 932. Damn these two cases are alot alike.







Then I would just turn the Rad to face the MoBo.









~Ceadder


----------



## Hellknight

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fssbzz* 
hehe. erm, don't really get what u mean.
but if you think GT 15 are good that's good for you.
i will still stick with the fact.
UK 2000 = best price /performance
GT 15 = best price /noise.










Werent the GT15's the best performance /noise?

Then again, why people whine so much about the GT15 price?
Proper San Aces are as twice as expensive?

And for the guys who wont give a damn about noise, you can always buy 6000rmp - 260 cfm - 350Pa -64dBA - 120mm x 120mm x 38mm aluminium framed San Aces! but these will be around 50 bucks i guess..


----------



## TheLastPriest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *00Smurf*


Working on a new build. Managed to squeeze the h50 in their with a little modding. I wish they made a matx lga1366 board. As of now, I'm rocking an 1090t x6 in it. With 2 cooler master r4's (couldn't find the blue led ones) I'm getting 4.2ghz @1.4375 volts 23C Idle/47 Load.

Pics:


























That thing is so awesome I pretty much went through the 5 stages of grief in about 5 seconds. I am jealous, the ultimate sleeper, nice job!


----------



## Turgin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KoukiFC3S*


Top mounted H50 with 2 gentle typhoons and a shroud. Bad idea?


That's how I plan to mount it in my ATCS 840 soon as everything comes in.


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Doesn't that rig run too hot in that case?

Even so, congratulations, I like that mod, small case, but huge quality componentes inside, congratulations, I love it!










It would do 3.8ghz on air with a load temp of 60C and this was on the stock cooler.

The case was hot before i put in all of the optional fans. Now it runs pretty cool. The psu gets really hot though. its a 1000W Cooler MAaster Silent Pro.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheLastPriest*


That thing is so awesome I pretty much went through the 5 stages of grief in about 5 seconds. I am jealous, the ultimate sleeper, nice job!


Lol, thanks Its been a alot of fun. I liked my antec 1200 but it just got too big to move for lans and stuff. I needed something portable that would match that system. I wish they made a micro atx lga 1366 board. I'm somewhat considering switching to an matx lga1156 board, but i'm not sure how well the i7860/70's stack up against the x6.


----------



## Lhiannon

Yeah man, it's quite a nice little rig. Only weighs about 20 pounds, too. His last one was huge-moungous. I am pretty sure he was compensating for something.


----------



## KoukiFC3S

I'll update on the temps for the top mounted H50 when I come back with my 1090t.


----------



## ArcticZero

Finally ordered my H50. I would assume it would top the TRUE Black in high ambient situations


----------



## Demented

Mine is incoming, should be here by tomorrow, though I won't be setting it up until I get my Q9550 next week probably. I'm wondering if I should order two Slipstreams from the Egg since they are having a 10% off case fan sale...


----------



## chris14029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demented*


Mine is incoming, should be here by tomorrow, though I won't be setting it up until I get my Q9550 next week probably. I'm wondering if I should order two Slipstreams from the Egg since they are having a 10% off case fan sale...


@10% i would yes


----------



## spacegoast

00Smurf, there is the Rampage II Gene mobo that is X58 and mATX and would fit in your case. Nice job on getting that in their too, looks clean.


----------



## Kevdog

I keep reading all through this thread about static pressure on the fans, does anyone have a list of what the pressures are for all these fans, and what the optimum pressure should be for the rad? All I see is RPMs


----------



## Hellfighter

I'm thinking about getting an H50. Will it help lower my temps, or will it not make a dent? Right now my room is around 75F, and @ 3.42Ghz and 1.385V.


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spacegoast*


00Smurf, there is the Rampage II Gene mobo that is X58 and mATX and would fit in your case. Nice job on getting that in their too, looks clean.


This is the one i ordered earlier. For some reason i couldn't find any ones before. only the 1156 ones. It'll be here tommorow, and i'll slap it in there with the 975EE and see how things go.

Thanks for the tip. +rep


----------



## chris14029

i just got the slip stream kaze @1900rpm lol its running @ 2100 and drooped my 2-4 c
and not that much more noise


----------



## Spct

scroll down to his graph results... pretty awesome...

http://mthec.wordpress.com/2010/01/0...50-cpu-cooler/


----------



## Spct

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kevdog* 
I keep reading all through this thread about static pressure on the fans, does anyone have a list of what the pressures are for all these fans, and what the optimum pressure should be for the rad? All I see is RPMs

http://blog.corsair.com/?p=987

_120mm x 120mm x 25mm dimensions, 12V, approximately 50CFM max airflow. I attached the second fan using 6-32 x 1-Â¼ inch screws, which are the same as those supplied with the H50. You can buy these (as well as appropriate washers) from hardware stores and also model RC car/airplane stores. Alternatively, you can use cables ties._


----------



## Kevdog

Spct said:


> http://blog.corsair.com/?p=987
> 
> Thanks for the link, I have seen it and it says nothing about static pressure.


----------



## Ceadderman

This isn't my setup(yet) but this is what I am going to do with mine and thought I should post it for all the people I may be confusing by saying to mount your H50 to the top of your 932.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sintricate*


You mean like this?










That worked fine for me but I have since then mounted it in the drive bays since I added different/more fans.


I should point out that if you shroud a 12cm to the bottom that you will lose a combined 3 bays. It's not an issue if you mount switch and fan controller panels in them. I'm mounting a media panel and a fan controller in mine, so since they are shallow devices they should fit just fine.

That leaves me 3 standard bays for 2 drives(DVD+R, BluRay) and an optional when I go full h2o. But by that time the H50 setup would go to my brother.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tchernobyl

just got mine in the mail







well, not "just". Today, that is. Had some issues getting it set up, since the fan I use is a Panaflo.. 38mm thick beast. Had to go to a hardware store and find those 2 inch screws!


----------



## jakeb1213

Can you add me to the list. Just got my H50 today after many said the 212 + was good enough. I love this thing and it looks and performs just like it was promised.


----------



## Ceadderman

@Tchernobyl Want some case to go with that fan?


















~Ceadder


----------



## Tchernobyl

not sure what you mean by that!









the case is a lian li pc-x1000 that I just got as well... love the thing~


----------



## chris14029

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jakeb1213* 
Can you add me to the list. Just got my H50 today after many said the 212 + was good enough. I love this thing and it looks and performs just like it was promised.

its a self adding list


----------



## ThirdLap

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tchernobyl* 
not sure what you mean by that!









He's saying that the Panaflo is a very large fan. Kinda like noticing someone is using a lot of sugar in their coffee and saying, 'Wow, want some coffee with your sugar?'


----------



## sendblink23

Hahaha quite funny, but I'm a huge idiot just for randomness since I'm used to changing cards & PSU depending on the card I want to use... well very dumb I inserted & used my XFX 5770(instead of the 4650).. with my crappy Codegen 550... instead of the Corsair TX850... *I totally forgot to change my PSU after inserting the 5770*... well anyways turned on my computer & decided to play a bit Bad Company 2(i had no issues, played for an hour).. but then I changed to NFS Shift... after a few seconds when on Shift changing the view of the car.. BOOOM! my computer went out... suddenly.... sniff sniff.... the crappy PSU finally died(smelled like smoke)

so yeah.... no more craptastic old PSU, next time I should focus on what I'm inserting on my computer(verifying I have everything correct before using it after changing hardwares).... I checked/tested all my hardware (H50/CPU/GFX card, rams)... so everything is fine... just the old PSU got busted, Inserted now the Corsair and its all running fine now

_All this certainly scared the $hit out of me.. please people don't be like me changing PSU & Cards for fun on pure randomness... look at me I killed a PSU =P_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tchernobyl* 
just got mine in the mail







well, not "just". Today, that is. Had some issues getting it set up, since the fan I use is a Panaflo.. 38mm thick beast.[/IMG]

Hey broo your H50 is set up exactly like mines *panaflo








A tiny bit loud but works great


----------



## pcnuttie

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

yea welcome to the club. I like the mounting on top you did. Nice idea.

Did i freak you out thinking it's someone else's mouse cursor? LOL just testing a sig here. It's not good enough yet. Hope you like it.


----------



## Tchernobyl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ThirdLap* 
He's saying that the Panaflo is a very large fan. Kinda like noticing someone is using a lot of sugar in their coffee and saying, 'Wow, want some coffee with your sugar?'









Ah! Right. My brain's a bit frazzled after spending about 5 hours getting everything set up right, so i didn't think of that.

Quote:

=sendblink23]
Hey broo your H50 is set up exactly like mines *panaflo
A tiny bit loud but works great
Yeah, it's definitely loud. Worth it though


----------



## Ceadderman

But it was a cheap PSU so no big loss. At least it wasn't your MoBo that bit the big one.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


Hahaha quite funny, but I'm a huge idiot just for randomness since I'm used to changing cards & PSU depending on the card I want to use... well very dumb I inserted & used my XFX 5770(instead of the 4650).. with my crappy Codegen 550... instead of the Corsair TX950... *I totally forgot to change my PSU after inserting the 5770*... well anyways turned on my computer & decided to play a bit Bad Company 2(i had no issues, played for an hour).. but then I changed to NFS Shift... after a few seconds when on Shift changing the view of the car.. BOOOM! my computer went out... suddenly.... sniff sniff.... the crappy PSU finally died(smelled like smoke)

so yeah.... no more craptastic old PSU, next time I should focus on what I'm inserting on my computer(verifying I have everything correct before using it after changing hardwares).... I checked/tested all my hardware (H50/CPU/GFX card, rams)... so everything is fine... just the old PSU got busted, Inserted now the Corsair and its all running fine now

_All this certainly scared the $hit out of me.. please people don't be like me changing PSU & Cards for fun on pure randomness... look at me I killed a PSU =P_

Hey broo your H50 is set up exactly like mines *panaflo








A tiny bit loud but works great


----------



## freeze

Good Day..

May I ask what is the diameter of H50's tube/hose.. 5/8" or 3/8".. Im planning to buy and mod its tube.

Thanks


----------



## pcnuttie

Hey guys thought you might wanna check this out. I found this. I wanted to see if i could order one cuz i would love to compare this with the H50 also. It's a NorthQ Siberian Tiger II Water Cooler



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

If anyone can find where i can order this please let me know. Cuz i'm stumped and i tried to google it.


----------



## pcnuttie

That cooler looked interesting but i found out it costs $169.00 in reviews and it mentioned it's nowhere to be found for sale in the US area. Apparently we'd have to get it across seas such as probably UK or something i dunno. Can't find one and i don't think it might be a good cooler. The reason i like this is the dual Rad. Beats trying to MOD it cuz i don't wanna risk damage. I do wanna try this cooler however. If anyone can find where i can BUY it, let me know please! Thanks! I still love my H50 anyways


----------



## Ceadderman

It is interesting. I'm not going to get it even if it comes available, only because I want to retain my 23cm ceiling fan and still be able to run the H50 on the ceiling. If I got that it's either/or but not both.

That's probably a solid system though, so I'll keep an eye out. If I see it, I'll post it.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


That cooler looked interesting but i found out it costs $169.00 in reviews and it mentioned it's nowhere to be found for sale in the US area. Apparently we'd have to get it across seas such as probably UK or something i dunno. Can't find one and i don't think it might be a good cooler. The reason i like this is the dual Rad. Beats trying to MOD it cuz i don't wanna risk damage. I do wanna try this cooler however. If anyone can find where i can BUY it, let me know please! Thanks! I still love my H50 anyways


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Hey guys thought you might wanna check this out. I found this. I wanted to see if i could order one cuz i would love to compare this with the H50 also. It's a NorthQ Siberian Tiger II Water Cooler
If anyone can find where i can order this please let me know. Cuz i'm stumped and i tried to google it.


I've seen a review of this dated 2008. It's an old cooler, probably don't make it anymore


----------



## Vectrexer

Another H50 owner here. In fact an owner of 5 of them.

Pics of one of the builds:


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:



Good Day..

May I ask what is the diameter of H50's tube/hose.. 5/8" or 3/8".. Im planning to buy and mod its tube.

Thanks


tubing is 1/4" ID and 3/8" OD. theres a link in my sig for my video tutorial. Watch and then ask questions


----------



## Ceadderman

Clicked the link and all I got was this same page. No tutorial. I is sad.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


tubing is 1/4" ID and 3/8" OD. theres a link in my sig for my video tutorial. Watch and then ask questions


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Clicked the link and all I got was this same page. No tutorial. I is sad.









~Ceadder










http://www.overclock.net/8385649-post3304.html


----------



## Ceadderman

I think the word you were searching for was "reducer". You used 1/4 barbs so you wouldn't have to use reducers.









1st vid is otherwise fine though the lighting was a bit dim. But you noticed that already.









On to the 2nd.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


http://www.overclock.net/8385649-post3304.html


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
But it was a cheap PSU so no big loss. At least it wasn't your MoBo that bit the big one.









~Ceadder









LOL yup.. still safe my mobo & all my other hardware... but that was my _hot sexy granny PSU_ imagine... it was a "certified Pentium 4 Power Supply" (hahaa seriously)... and that little fu##er managed overclocking stable (well it lasted only a few weeks before it first got crippled a few months ago) an AMD Phenom ii X4 965BE C3 @ 4.21Ghz .... but still it kept me being on 3.9Ghz & 4.0Ghz normally 24/7 till now. _"Now, that's a Miracle!"_ its not suppose to handle anything above P4.. or even EVER all the hardware I have it running for: 8 x 120mm Fans, H50, CPU, 8gb DDR3 Ram, GFX, 3 x 1TB Hard Drives =P

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Vectrexer* 
Another H50 owner here. In fact an owner of 5 of them.

Pics of one of the builds:









I like your *Set there bro








What do you have inside all the other builds???


----------



## Ceadderman

Meh, he needs a bigger case. Those GPUs' really took up some serious real estate.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
LOL yup.. still safe my mobo & all my other hardware... but that was my _hot sexy granny PSU_ imagine... it was a "certified Pentium 4 Power Supply" (hahaa seriously)... and that little fu##er managed overclocking stable (well it lasted only a few weeks before it first got crippled a few months ago) an AMD Phenom ii X4 965 @ 4.21Ghz .... but still it kept me being on 3.9Ghz & 4.0Ghz normally 24/7 till now. _"Now, that's a Miracle!"_ its not suppose to handle anything above P4.. or even EVER all the hardware I have it running for: 8 x 120mm Fans, H50, CPU, 8gb DDR3 Ram, GFX, 3 x 1TB Hard Drives =P

I like your *Set there bro


----------



## freeze

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
tubing is 1/4" ID and 3/8" OD. theres a link in my sig for my video tutorial. Watch and then ask questions

thanks man....


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Meh, he needs a bigger case. Those GPUs' really took up some serious real estate.









~Ceadder









give him *Ur's LOL


----------



## kcuestag

Hey,

I am writing here hoping someone can help me.

Basically I have the Corsair H50 on push/pull setup. I was using x2 crappy Revoltec Green Led 120mm fans 1200rpm and I decided to replace them with x2 Noiseblockers 1800rpm which are wayyyyyy better.

I also removed the stock thermal paste and bought Arctic Cooling MX-3.

The thing is, with better fans, and better thermal paste (That's what people say) the temperatures at 3,8GHz are same as with the old crap fans and old thermal paste. I was expecting a 2-5ÂºC decrease in temps (Talking about iddle, im on 34ÂºC right now :/).

I am wondering, does the thermal paste need a few days so it seats properly on the cpu? Or do I have something wrong?

I plugged the sensor cable from my frontal rehobus and put it inside the case between both H50 tubes to measure the center of the case, and it is at 23ÂºC right now...

What is wrong? Do I need to wait a few days to have some effect?


----------



## Ceadderman

@sendblink... If I didn't have bigger cards planned for my system I would. But since I do let's not and say we did.









@kcuestag... Give it a few days to cure. Your temps should decrease by then.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Hey,

I am writing here hoping someone can help me.

Basically I have the Corsair H50 on push/pull setup. I was using x2 crappy Revoltec Green Led 120mm fans 1200rpm and I decided to replace them with x2 Noiseblockers 1800rpm which are wayyyyyy better.

I also removed the stock thermal paste and bought Arctic Cooling MX-3.

The thing is, with better fans, and better thermal paste (That's what people say) the temperatures at 3,8GHz are same as with the old crap fans and old thermal paste. I was expecting a 2-5ÂºC decrease in temps (Talking about iddle, im on 34ÂºC right now :/).

I am wondering, does the thermal paste need a few days so it seats properly on the cpu? Or do I have something wrong?

I plugged the sensor cable from my frontal rehobus and put it inside the case between both H50 tubes to measure the center of the case, and it is at 23ÂºC right now...

What is wrong? Do I need to wait a few days to have some effect?


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


better thermal paste (That's what people say)


I'd have to disagree... Shin-Etsu is extremely high quality TIM, considered one of the best

Read this Review of 80 Thermal Paste Tests: http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...=150&Itemid=62

Issue is the one that comes stock on the H50.. has way too much TIM... if you buy some new Shin-Etsu... obviously clean/wipe with alcohol the stock one.. and re-apply with the new Shin-Etsu its a difference compared to the H50 stock Shin-Etsu.... why do you think.. everybody that buys a new 3rd Party CPU cooler... All of them cool better, when you apply some new TIM(we always change teh stock TIM)... but in this case the H50 already comes with a high quality one.. just with too much(like with every other stock 3rd party cpu cooler - too much tim, unless it brings the tim apart)


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


@sendblink... If I didn't have bigger cards planned for my system I would. But since I do let's not and say we did.









@kcuestag... Give it a few days to cure. Your temps should decrease by then.

~Ceadder










I hope so, @ 3,8Ghz on +0.025v (From stock to +0.025v) it is on 44-45ÂºC while playing BC2 >.< Same as old thermal paste and worse fans than now...


----------



## navit

Those temps still arent bad, and should get a little better, I hover around 40-43c with stock tim


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
Hey guys thought you might wanna check this out. I found this. I wanted to see if i could order one cuz i would love to compare this with the H50 also. It's a NorthQ Siberian Tiger II Water Cooler



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

If anyone can find where i can order this please let me know. Cuz i'm stumped and i tried to google it.

It's a rather old one now indeed, but hopefully this review will help you decide on getting it








Hes a legend this old boy!








YouTube- #1017 - NorthQ 3590 Siberian Tiger II CPU Water Cooler Video


----------



## kcuestag

So you people saying that the Thermal Paste I applied should take a few days to be acting properly?


----------



## chris14029

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
So you people saying that the Thermal Paste I applied should take a few days to be acting properly?

yeah give it a liitle while the only tim i know that dose not need a set in time is ocz freeze


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chris14029* 
yeah give it a liitle while the only tim i know that dose not need a set in time is ocz freeze

Oh ok, thanks a lot


----------



## Divine_Madcat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chris14029* 
yeah give it a liitle while the only tim i know that dose not need a set in time is ocz freeze

Any ideas on how long Tuniq TX2 might take to cure?


----------



## pcnuttie

Google is your best friend. READ!


----------



## kcuestag

Ok guys, so I reapplied my thermal paste (I had too much at first.. So I applied waaaaay less and not it's a really thin lay) but the temps are same :/

Does the MX-3 thermal paste take few days to act or something? ;/ I expected a temp drop with less thermal paste.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Ok guys, so I reapplied my thermal paste (I had too much at first.. So I applied waaaaay less and not it's a really thin lay) but the temps are same :/

Does the MX-3 thermal paste take few days to act or something? ;/ I expected a temp drop with less thermal paste.

Sorry, but wasn't it suggested to you to just give it a little time to cure? And didn't you even quote that suggestion and say 'OK'? So within minutes of that post, you redid it again starting the entire process over again?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Demented* 
Sorry, but wasn't it suggested to you to just give it a little time to cure? And didn't you even quote that suggestion and say 'OK'? So within minutes of that post, you redid it again starting the entire process over again?









Yeah, I did listen to it, but then I sent a picture to a member from this forum, and he told me there was enough thermal paste for 3-4 CPU's lol.

I guess ill just wait few days with what I have now, i'll listen to you, thanks a lot, and sorry for the problems.


----------



## Demented

I just got mine, and while I can set it up until next Tuesday, I of course wanted to take a gander at it. The only worry I have is that the tubing is VERY stiff, and I feel like I'm putting too much pressure just attempting to put it into the shape it will be in my case. Also, I think that having the tubes on the bottom of the radiator will be better for me look-wise as well as organization-wise, do any of you suggest doing it the other way for any major reason?

Another thing; I plan on doing push/pull using my current Antec tri cool exhaust fan, and the Corsair one that came with the H50. They say that you should use similar speed fans, so if I put the Antec one on medium then it should be closer to the CFM the Corsair one puts out. Will this be a very important thing to do, or will leaving the Antec one on high be OK, even if there will be a difference in CFM? I also need to get 4 extra screws from the hardware store tomorrow.


----------



## Ceadderman

You should be fine with the fittings at the bottom. But it would be best to have 2 of the same style of fans in push/pull config. I'm going to be using a pair of Yate Loons with a gutted 12cm as my shroud. I wouldn't even think about running a high speed with a medium speed fan. I'm not sure what the rating is on the Corsair fan but the YLs' I'm going to get are rated at 88cfm. I don't think the Corsair could stand up to that onslaught.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Demented* 
I just got mine, and while I can set it up until next Tuesday, I of course wanted to take a gander at it. The only worry I have is that the tubing is VERY stiff, and I feel like I'm putting too much pressure just attempting to put it into the shape it will be in my case. Also, I think that having the tubes on the bottom of the radiator will be better for me look-wise as well as organization-wise, do any of you suggest doing it the other way for any major reason?

Another thing; I plan on doing push/pull using my current Antec tri cool exhaust fan, and the Corsair one that came with the H50. They say that you should use similar speed fans, so if I put the Antec one on medium then it should be closer to the CFM the Corsair one puts out. Will this be a very important thing to do, or will leaving the Antec one on high be OK, even if there will be a difference in CFM? I also need to get 4 extra screws from the hardware store tomorrow.


----------



## zefs

Which is the correct "push - pull" for the radiator? I am worried that I have got it wrong:

1. Fan direction ---> | Rad | Fan direction --->
2. Fan direction ---> | Rad | <--- Fan direction


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zefs*


Which is the correct "push - pull" for the radiator? I am worried that I have got it wrong:

1. Fan direction ---> | Rad | Fan direction --->
2. Fan direction ---> | Rad | <--- Fan direction











The option 1.

Cheers.


----------



## Demented

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


You should be fine with the fittings at the bottom. But it would be best to have 2 of the same style of fans in push/pull config. I'm going to be using a pair of Yate Loons with a gutted 12cm as my shroud. I wouldn't even think about running a high speed with a medium speed fan. I'm not sure what the rating is on the Corsair fan but the YLs' I'm going to get are rated at 88cfm. I don't think the Corsair could stand up to that onslaught.









~Ceadder










Well, if I set the Antec to medium, according to specs, it should push 56 CFM. The stock Corsair one pushes 50 CFM, so that's pretty close to the same. I plan on seeing how this works, and if I want better cooling, then I'm gonna buy some Scythe Gentle Typhoons.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zefs*


Which is the correct "push - pull" for the radiator? I am worried that I have got it wrong:

1. Fan direction ---> | Rad | Fan direction --->
2. Fan direction ---> | Rad | <--- Fan direction











If you are going according to Corsair's recommendations for pulling air from the outside of your case, into it, then it should be:

--->Fan--->Rad--->Fan--->

If you use it as exhaust (as I plan on doing), then it should be:

<---Fan<---Rad<---Fan<---


----------



## zefs

Thanks for the answers.
Yeah I use it as an exhaust. I have placed the radiator on the front of the case so that the "standard" airflow is kept.


----------



## Pentium4 531 overclocker

i gotta buy me one of these


----------



## staryoshi

Mount it as an exhaust. The difference between the two is usually negligible. Also if you absolutely must use two different fans, put the slower one in the push config and the faster one as a pull. I recommend Scythe GentleTyphoons. I have a single GT config right now with a 12mm shroud.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:



Mount it as an exhaust. The difference between the two is usually negligible. Also if you absolutely must use two different fans, put the slower one in the push config and the faster one as a pull. I recommend Scythe GentleTyphoons. I have a single GT config right now with a 12mm shroud.


There is in fact at least 3C difference in the intake vs. exhaust setup. Run intake, the heat going into the case wont hurt other temps because it will be exhausted fairly quickly by a top fan or rear. Ideally the front intake would be best because the hotter air wont be blowing right over the back of the gpu, but instead be near the top and then exhausted.

This is incorrect. Put the faster one as push and the slower as pull. If you have the faster as pull you will damage the slower fan because it will force the push fan to spin faster. by putting the faster as push, air is already moving faster, so the slower one can't make it go faster. Analogy willhemmens or killhouse gave: riding a bicycle down a hill, you peddling down a hill wont make you go faster once you reach the top speed when on the hill.


----------



## ThirdLap

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


There is in fact at least 3C difference in the intake vs. exhaust setup.


I've tried both configurations, and never noticed anywhere near a 3Â°C difference. Load temps were identical, and idle temps maxed out at ~1Â°C higher in the intake configuration versus the exhaust config. I place the blame on my bottom-mount PSU, which (along with two other rear-facing exhaust fans) creates a hot spot behind my computer.

Quote:



Run intake, the heat going into the case wont hurt other temps because it will be exhausted fairly quickly by a top fan or rear.


I think the concern is not just introducing a source of hot air into the computer (and thus warming the mobo, ram, NB, etc) but sucking already warm ambient air through the rad as well. The air behind my rig is noticeably warmer than the air within the rig, and I could not imagine introducing it back into the computer via an already warm rad.

So what, then, is the best answer to the H50 intake or exhaust question?

It depends. Use whatever works best for your specific application.

BTW, I notice you have a similar setup as me. For the sake of comparison, here are my idle and load temps at two different OCs:

3.5GHz, 1.42v, 23Â°C ambient, 4 cores
Idle: 28Â°C (at this moment)
Load: 44Â° (LinX, highest temp recorded during 20 cycle run)

3.72 GHz, 1.55v, 23Â°C ambient, 4 cores
Idle: 32Â°C
Load: 52Â°C (LinX, 20 cycles)


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Right, everyone is going to get different results. I noticed about a 3C drop. Peoples ambients are different, different cases and hardware specs.

I would suggest to everyone, try every possibility for your case and choose whats best and dont just take what people say works for them because it may not be best for you.







Just my .02$


----------



## pcnuttie

Hey guys I'm not on my pc and thought of moving my h50 up to the top rear exhaust to stay away from my video cards cuz I got sick of getting heat from my sli into my rad, I have room for a shroud but I don't have room for this set cuz I need to find a way to put it together,would tie wraps work? This is what I wanna do..

<--exhaust-fan-rad-shroud-fan-fan

Is that a lil crazy to add double intake fans on my shroud? Lol I need advice, I'm on my cell.


----------



## pcnuttie

Hey guys I'm not on my pc and thought of moving my h50 up to the top rear exhaust to stay away from my video cards cuz I got sick of getting heat from my sli into my rad, I have room for a shroud but I don't have room for this set cuz I need to find a way to put it together,would tie wraps work? This is what I wanna do..

<--exhaust-fan-rad-shroud-fan-fan

Is that a lil crazy to add double intake fans on my shroud? Lol I need advice, I'm on my cell.


----------



## pcnuttie

Wow sorry for the double post, I blame my cell!


----------



## dracotonisamond

so. summers coming up and my cooler is starting to feel the heat.

I just ordered my very own H50 cooler right now and am going to power it with Antec Tri-Cool fans.

ill be sure to post how it goes ;D


----------



## ThirdLap

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


I would suggest to everyone, try every possibility for your case and choose whats best and dont just take what people say works for them because it may not be best for you.


Not tryin' to come off like a jerk, but an hour ago you did precisely what you advised others not to do:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


*Run intake*, the heat going into the case wont hurt other temps because it will be exhausted fairly quickly by a top fan or rear.


Just sayin'.


----------



## Ceadderman

3rd L, you runnin intake or exhaust?

I'll be running exhaust out the top of my 932.But I'll need to put an order in for my high speed YLs'. 88cfm pretty much negates the intake/exhaust debate with the 932 I think.









Though I will try the Shin-Etsu TIM. Don't even think I'll use the supplied TIM when I build. I never trust supplied TIM. Could be great stuff and well applied. But I'm not taking the chance because I don't have alot of dough to throw at a new system.

~Ceadder


----------



## Sethy666

Just to throw in some personal experience...

During summer I use exhaust and during winter I flip to intake. For my system, this provides better cooling.


----------



## ThirdLap

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
3rd L, you runnin intake or exhaust?

Exhaust, with the rad mounted externally.

Quote:

88cfm pretty much negates the intake/exhaust debate with the 932 I think.








Good point.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ohhhh okay I remember this one now. If that were Red LED you would got a knock on the door and that would be the last thing you remember until you woke up to a bare spot next to your desk.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ThirdLap* 
Exhaust, with the rad mounted externally.

I should point out that I'll be using a third YL and gutting it for a shroud. in between the push and the Rad in exhaust. That pretty well moots the discussion even further. Of course I live up here in the NW and we have maybe a month of nearly 100o F weather if that. Right now it's 52o F days. Sucks to be me, I hate the cold.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ThirdLap* 
Good point.


----------



## pcnuttie

Turns out I wasted an hr lol. The rear of my antec top exhaust of 120mm seems to not fit my rad cuz the gap and the pump is blocking me to align my screws to mount the rad. So it looks like I have no choice but put it back the way it was on lower rear exhaust lol. Which sucks cuz heat rises from my video card ande goes up and you know the rest. I wanna set it as intake but I don't wanna block the airflow in the middle because I like to have proper airflow over my sli set up. Looks like I might have to start learning how custom water cooling works but I know nothingt about it still and how to do it and clean them. I know the basics but I ain't no pro like you guys. I wish the h5o comes with a attachable screw that you can take the tubes off and there is no leak and route it outside the case.
Worth a try and now I know it don't fit the rear exhaust on top rear fan. Not enough room. Doesn't stop me from brainstorming new ideas.


----------



## ThirdLap

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Ohhhh okay I remember this one now. If that were Red LED you would got a knock on the door and that would be the last thing you remember until you woke up to a bare spot next to your desk.









Lol, thanks, I think.









Eager to hear how yours turns out.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
Turns out I wasted an hr lol. The rear of my antec top exhaust of 120mm seems to not fit my rad cuz the gap and the pump is blocking me to align my screws to mount the rad. So it looks like I have no choice but put it back the way it was on lower rear exhaust lol. Which sucks cuz heat rises from my video card ande goes up and you know the rest. I wanna set it as intake but I don't wanna block the airflow in the middle because I like to have proper airflow over my sli set up. Looks like I might have to start learning how custom water cooling works but I know nothingt about it still and how to do it and clean them. I know the basics but I ain't no pro like you guys. I wish the h5o comes with a attachable screw that you can take the tubes off and there is no leak and route it outside the case.
Worth a try and now I know it don't fit the rear exhaust on top rear fan. Not enough room. Doesn't stop me from brainstorming new ideas.

Might be time to mod your case pcnuttie... It may be a simple as cutting some groves in your case to allow the tubes through. Below is what I did when I mounted my fans and rad in the rear externally. The black lines indicate the cuts.


----------



## ThirdLap

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Might be time to mod your case pcnuttie... It may be a simple as cutting some groves in your case to allow the tubes through. Below is what I did when I mounted my fans and rad in the rear externally. The black lines indicate the cuts.

Heh, mine is cut almost the same way.


----------



## waar

hi,

anybody have any idea of the exact measurements/size of the screws i'll need to mount a second fan to the h50? they're gentle typhoons if that helps any.

or should i just take the screws that came with the h50 and go to a hardware store and find them that way?


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *waar* 
hi,

anybody have any idea of the exact measurements/size of the screws i'll need to mount a second fan to the h50? they're gentle typhoons if that helps any.

or should i just take the screws that came with the h50 and go to a hardware store and find them that way?

6-32unc x 1.25 inches


----------



## waar

thanks, hopefully they have these at home depot.


----------



## RoyalGoat

Hey guys, I just got the H50 a few days ago and installed it in my new i7 setup. I'm pretty happy with it but I'm a little worried about the huge jump in temps from idle to load... at idle I am about 38 C, but under load with prime95 I start getting into the mid 60's.. I've got it set up as exhaust with a push pull with two Gentle Typhoon fans. The i7 is OCed to 3.7GHz (i7 1366 930). CPU voltage is 1.175, QPI/DRAM Core V is 1.3125..


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
There is in fact at least 3C difference in the intake vs. exhaust setup. Run intake, the heat going into the case wont hurt other temps because it will be exhausted fairly quickly by a top fan or rear. Ideally the front intake would be best because the hotter air wont be blowing right over the back of the gpu, but instead be near the top and then exhausted.

Mate, it deppends on how good your case is, and if you have enough space between the wall and the case.

For example in my case, if I put it as intake I get worse temperatures because the fan intakes all the hot air from the PSU and the HD5970..

I've seen most people use it as exhaust and it works better.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RoyalGoat* 
Hey guys, I just got the H50 a few days ago and installed it in my new i7 setup. I'm pretty happy with it but I'm a little worried about the huge jump in temps from idle to load... at idle I am about 38 C, but under load with prime95 I start getting into the mid 60's.. I've got it set up as exhaust with a push pull with two Gentle Typhoon fans. The i7 is OCed to 3.7GHz (i7 1366 930). CPU voltage is 1.175, QPI/DRAM Core V is 1.3125..

Don't worry about those load temps, I have some friends with the i7 920 @ 4.2Ghz HT OFF that almost hot 80ÂºC on load, those temps are ok I think.


----------



## RoyalGoat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Don't worry about those load temps, I have some friends with the i7 920 @ 4.2Ghz HT OFF that almost hot 80ÂºC on load, those temps are ok I think.

Good to know, I was just surprised I guess with how large a jump the idle v. load is. Seeing as how most people here seem to see something like 10, maybe 15 degree change and I am almost at 30 degrees. Does anyone else experience this?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RoyalGoat* 
Good to know, I was just surprised I guess with how large a jump the idle v. load is. Seeing as how most people here seem to see something like 10, maybe 15 degree change and I am almost at 30 degrees. Does anyone else experience this?

Just wondering, are you using 2 fans for a push/pull setup ?


----------



## Magus2727

Changing to the H50 usually drops the case ambient air by a fair amount... if your case was fairly bad before it may drop that much... even though you are venting air, if your air circulation is not the best to exhaust or bring new air then the air gets "recycled" though the cooler in an effort to cool again but is already warm.

Using the H50 kind of removes any of that "recirculation" so depending on what you internal case temp was vs you cpu temp i would say the delta between the two should be normal...from what was seen... you could have had a bad application of thermal paste on the previous cooler also...


----------



## RoyalGoat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Just wondering, are you using 2 fans for a push/pull setup ?

I am using two GentleTyphoon fans at about 60cfm.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RoyalGoat* 
I am using two GentleTyphoon fans at about 60cfm.

I would say temps are fine. Push your i7 (930 right?) to 4.2Ghz HT off or 4Ghz see what temps you get, although I see they're nothing to worry about 60-65ÂºC is pretty good/ok.


----------



## Ceadderman

Also are you using the stock Shin-Etsu TIM? This should be asked because if Corsair holds true to form, there is some reason to believe they use too much in the initial application. Half a grain of rice size app right in the middle of the CPU face should be plenty. Any more than that and it takes longer to cure and the thicker spread doesn't transfer heat as well.

I'm thinking that stock TIM is your issue. Also you shouldn't jump directly into OC'ing after mounting a new cooler. Let it run under normal loads for a few days and then when you feel comfortable then OC.









~Ceadder


----------



## Demented

Man, Tuesday won't come fast enough! But then, I'll be installing my new H50 on my new Q9550! Can't wait to play with this thing!


----------



## OwnedINC

Swapped from a 955BE w/ Stock cooling (Idle: 56c Load: 70c O_O)
to a 965BE w/ the H50 (Idle: 32c Load: 41c)
*Load temps taken after 1hr of Prime95*
Using Push/Pull exhausting setup for it on my Antec 1200
Set my side panel fan as an intake to help airflow.

So far VERY impressed with the H50, although was kind of a pain to mount the radiator do to the hoses being really stiff.

EDIT: Ambient is 24-26c, Case is 29-30c


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Not long got home from work (early finish on fridays )







mrs has been on the pc for about an hour when I got home, been alot hotter here recently now 22c outside down ere in oxford, UK and prob even warmer within our house and quite surpised just how much my temps have increased due to this.
Now after an hour pretty much idle, mozilla/music playing etc

Temps 3.66 OC
Cores 45, 40, 41 41
CPU 34
system 40

Max load (prime95)
Cores 60, 57, 57, 56
CPU 50
system 38

Just goes to show how ambient temps really do effect the H50, and im rather glad ive got my much Higher static pressure fans sanyo denki (70.4pa) on thier way with some new Shin-etsu TIM.
I hope this is just down to the stock TIM and increased temperature outside etc, If I'm still getting the same temps after the new setup im planning then my H50 must be faulty.


----------



## Ceadderman

What's your average temps Mate?

42c @ idle and 58c under 3.66Ghz load?

Doesn't look like there is a thing wrong with it. It looks like it's running well within parameters, but it definitely can't hurt to replace the stock TIM with slightly less and troupling the Rad with a could high cfm fans.

I look forward to seeing the results. But I would say there doesn't seem to be an issue with the H50. If you were running stock the temps would probably average 3-5c less and that falls within standard.

Just my









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd* 
Not long got home from work (early finish on fridays )







mrs has been on the pc for about an hour when I got home, been alot hotter here recently now 22c outside down ere in oxford, UK and prob even warmer within our house and quite surpised just how much my temps have increased due to this.
Now after an hour pretty much idle, mozilla/music playing etc

Temps 3.66 OC
Cores 45, 40, 41 41
CPU 34
system 40

Max load (prime95)
Cores 60, 57, 57, 56
CPU 50
system 38

Just goes to show how ambient temps really do effect the H50, and im rather glad ive got my much Higher static pressure fans sanyo denki (70.4pa) on thier way with some new Shin-etsu TIM.
I hope this is just down to the stock TIM and increased temperature outside etc, If I'm still getting the same temps after the new setup im planning then my H50 must be faulty.


----------



## Divine_Madcat

Just curious - have any Antec Nine Hundred II users tried mounting this bad boy in one of the HDD bays (which nicely have the 120mm fan mounts). I suspect part of my heat problems are related to my PSU and GPU exhausting out back (and my top fan dumping heat all around), which even my intake setup cannot overcome.

But, if i could mount it in the front, it might get much cooler air, and may be cooler in general. I know others have front mounted their H50's, but I am not sure if i have seen antec users do so.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well in this club you have approximately 890 posts at the moment. So if you get started now, I'm sure by this time Monday you'll have stumbled across some Antec owners with it mounted in the drive bays.









I'm j/k of course.









But I will say that if you have flow(HAF 932 has flow through the drivebays so...) then I see no reason not to mount your H50 up front, regardless of what everyone else is doing. Be a trendsetter. If you aren't setting the trend you're at least taking steps to flow cool air into your H50 and that is ALWAYS a good thing.









~Ceadder
 








Quote:



Originally Posted by *Divine_Madcat*


Just curious - have any Antec Nine Hundred II users tried mounting this bad boy in one of the HDD bays (which nicely have the 120mm fan mounts). I suspect part of my heat problems are related to my PSU and GPU exhausting out back (and my top fan dumping heat all around), which even my intake setup cannot overcome.

But, if i could mount it in the front, it might get much cooler air, and may be cooler in general. I know others have front mounted their H50's, but I am not sure if i have seen antec users do so.


----------



## Divine_Madcat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Well in this club you have approximately 890 posts at the moment. So if you get started now, I'm sure by this time Monday you'll have stumbled across some Antec owners with it mounted in the drive bays.









I'm j/k of course.









But I will say that if you have flow(HAF 932 has flow through the drivebays so...) then I see no reason not to mount your H50 up front, regardless of what everyone else is doing. Be a trendsetter. If you aren't setting the trend you're at least taking steps to flow cool air into your H50 and that is ALWAYS a good thing.









~Ceadder










The funny thing is, after refining my search a bit, I think I did find some info:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8587673
Its an Antec 1200, but the 902 is the same sans 3 drive bays.. So with that in mind, I think I am going to try to jury rig something. I mean hey.. it cane be any worse than my current 40*C idle/58*C load temps.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope can't be any worse that's for certain.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Divine_Madcat*


The funny thing is, after refining my search a bit, I think I did find some info:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8587673
Its an Antec 1200, but the 902 is the same sans 3 drive bays.. So with that in mind, I think I am going to try to jury rig something. I mean hey.. it cane be any worse than my current 40*C idle/58*C load temps.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Nope can't be any worse that's for certain.









~Ceadder









This.

I must say this week I had the H50 mounted on the rear part exhausting air.

But then I decided to move HAF 932 to the floor because it is more comfortable and I have more space, and then I realised that in the back of the case, there was a lot of heat.

I decided to put the H50 back on the Drive bays with some zip-ties as intake (I installed a fan filter on the first fan







Just don't want dust! ) and I gained 4ÂºC iddle and almost 7ÂºC on load









So deffinitly, put it in the front intaking fresh air, like I did.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well see, that's why I'm going to mount it on the ceiling under the I/O panel. It should have plenty of cool airflow entering the front of the 932. Even with the fans set to exhaust. Sure I may get SOME heat transfer from the 5970 but it's hardly anything to get worked up about. If I have to I can always fabricate an intake tube and fix it to the bottom of the pusher fan.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
This.

I must say this week I had the H50 mounted on the rear part exhausting air.

But then I decided to move HAF 932 to the floor because it is more comfortable and I have more space, and then I realised that in the back of the case, there was a lot of heat.

I decided to put the H50 back on the Drive bays with some zip-ties as intake (I installed a fan filter on the first fan







Just don't want dust! ) and I gained 4ÂºC iddle and almost 7ÂºC on load









So deffinitly, put it in the front intaking fresh air, like I did.


----------



## pcnuttie

I don't wanna cut my rear exhaust fan hole lol. I rather leave it alone. Sure i can do some modding but if i could find another Antec 1200 then i'd do it but it doesn't bother me. The temps are fine. I am just picky i guess. I like it MUCH lower. At load it only gets at 35 or lower and idle is less. So it's fine. I'm only at 3ghz anyways. I know i have room to go maybe 4ghz but i'm nervous because i never done higher clocks and i don't wanna have to re-adjust everything in bios lol. I might when the time comes. I hope i don't kill my motherboard lol.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Well see, that's why I'm going to mount it on the ceiling under the I/O panel. It should have plenty of cool airflow entering the front of the 932. Even with the fans set to exhaust. Sure I may get SOME heat transfer from the 5970 but it's hardly anything to get worked up about. If I have to I can always fabricate an intake tube and fix it to the bottom of the pusher fan.









~Ceadder









How can I put mine below the I/O panel  ? I don't see how to take the upper part plastic (Where the on/reset buttons are) :/


----------



## pcnuttie

What do you guys think of this fan? I just wanna get something better.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/58...l=g36c435s1104
or

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/64...435s1104#blank

Besides the Corsair fan. I remember reading somewhere else someone mentioned it's better to have a fast fan with higher cfm to pull as exhaust on the rad and a lower cfm fan to push it in? True? I don't think it matters but i do know i rather have a higher CFM pull in rad fan to replace my RAD cuz my cfm is still good on my antec tri fans anyways since it runs higher on high settings anyways. It runs from 79cfm if i am correct. but anyways just wanted to see what you guys think. I do have a Master Cooler fan on my side panel that runs 90cfm and it does cool everything inside my case. I wanna at least have 1 more stronger cfm fan so i can get much cooler air and better flow to escape through the RAD since it's sitting above those video cards. The cooler the better







I am a temp freak i admit that.


----------



## Divine_Madcat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
This.

I must say this week I had the H50 mounted on the rear part exhausting air.

But then I decided to move HAF 932 to the floor because it is more comfortable and I have more space, and then I realised that in the back of the case, there was a lot of heat.

I decided to put the H50 back on the Drive bays with some zip-ties as intake (I installed a fan filter on the first fan







Just don't want dust! ) and I gained 4ÂºC iddle and almost 7ÂºC on load









So deffinitly, put it in the front intaking fresh air, like I did.

I wont get my hopes up too high, but 7C on load might almost be enough to get me to 4Ghz (i think I am stuck on 3.8Ghz because of heat).

Now, based off of memory of tubing length, what will happen is something like this:

Code:



Code:


(end of drive bay)                  (front of case)
 |                                               |
[<--- FAN [H50] {Shroud} FAN <-----------------Fan]

So, it will sort of be a small wind tunnel. Anyone see any problems with this? All of the fans are within 15CFM of each other..


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Divine_Madcat* 

Code:



Code:


(end of drive bay)                  (front of case)
 |                                               |
[<--- FAN [H50] {Shroud} FAN <-----------------Fan]

So, it will sort of be a small wind tunnel. Anyone see any problems with this? All of the fans are within 15CFM of each other..


Yep, that's how mine is mounted, at the "end of drive bays". It works fine (Since the tubes are not that long, don't think it is enough to put it at the start of the drive bays).

It'll be fine


----------



## Divine_Madcat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Yep, that's how mine is mounted, at the "end of drive bays". It works fine (Since the tubes are not that long, don't think it is enough to put it at the start of the drive bays).

It'll be fine










Sweet!

I know you said you got a drop from doing so... can i ask what the actual temps are right now?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Divine_Madcat*


Sweet!

I know you said you got a drop from doing so... can i ask what the actual temps are right now?


Right now I am folding so cpu is being stressed 100% on all cores.

Running at the moment 3,8Ghz on 1.360v and I am getting load temp stable at 45ÂºC.

Pretty good to be honest, although I must say I replaced the thermal paste yesterday, so should get better in few days, and my room is pretty hot today, I have also laptop folding and PS3 on, so its almost 26ÂºC in my room


----------



## pcnuttie

What thermal did you use?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


What thermal did you use?


This one.

Although so far I am not happy or sad with it, I heard it takes a few days before it seats properly on the cpu and decrease a bit more the temps.


----------



## Divine_Madcat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Right now I am folding so cpu is being stressed 100% on all cores.

Running at the moment 3,8Ghz on 1.360v and I am getting load temp stable at 45ÂºC.

Pretty good to be honest, although I must say I replaced the thermal paste yesterday, so should get better in few days, and my room is pretty hot today, I have also laptop folding and PS3 on, so its almost 26ÂºC in my room










That alone makes me want to cry..









My PhII 955 takes 1.425v (and yeah, its a C3 stepping) to get to 3.8; from my testing, it looks like 1.5v will be needed to stabilize 4.0, but with the heat at 4.0 and 1.5v, i could never test. I would kill for load temps of 45C...


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Divine_Madcat*


That alone makes me want to cry..









My PhII 955 takes 1.425v (and yeah, its a C3 stepping) to get to 3.8; from my testing, it looks like 1.5v will be needed to stabilize 4.0, but with the heat at 4.0 and 1.5v, i could never test. I would kill for load temps of 45C...


Don't get sad, I also need 1.5v to have 4Ghz full stable







Although Im happy with 3,8Ghz on such vcore for now.


----------



## Divine_Madcat

yeah, the 4Ghz mark may still be too illusive (though, lets see.. if i could get 4.0 at 1.5v to be stable on 55C load, i would take it......), but just getting my temps in general down would be great. Keeping it under 50 will make me feel better that i wont fry my chip one day.. heh


----------



## pcnuttie

yea the lower the better. I am a temp freak. I like it WAYYY lower


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Divine_Madcat*


yeah, the 4Ghz mark may still be too illusive (though, lets see.. if i could get 4.0 at 1.5v to be stable on 55C load, i would take it......), but just getting my temps in general down would be great. Keeping it under 50 will make me feel better that i wont fry my chip one day.. heh


Yeah, I was also a bit paranoid for getting them under 50ÂºC, now with the RAD on front bays I succeeded







I'm happy now, 45-46ÂºC stable all the time with folding 100% on all cores. Although im sure it can be better as soon as I open my room's window and ventilate it some, its pretty hot in here due to too many "systems" on same desks (PS3, laptop, desktop, 2 monitors.. All are on producing heat







)


----------



## Divine_Madcat

Damn.. the only thing heating my computer room is my one lone computer and one lone 22" Acer LCD.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Divine_Madcat* 
Damn.. the only thing heating my computer room is my one lone computer and one lone 22" Acer LCD.

Haha, I just leave the window opened all day so fresh air comes in, but today's been a pretty warm day here >.<


----------



## zefs

Really impressed with this cooler so far.
965 @ 4.1GHz stable / 32C idle 50C load

I have also attached the rad on the drive bay of my HAF 932, like kcuestag did.
Using push pull Scythe Slip Stream 1900RPM.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes you can. It's technically inside the case but to access the mounting you have to undo the panel.

Here's how you would do it if there was nothing in your HAF:

Lift up your insert from the top of your I/O panel
Revealing three mounting screws with philips slots
You undo these and slide the I/O panel carefully so you don't snag the cables on any obstacle.
When it's far enough off you will see the four mounting points for a 12cm fan. You will mount your H50 here(*INSIDE* the 5.25 bays *not* in-between the case and the I/O panel)with long enough bolts to secure your "puller" fan on top of your Rad.
Button it back up following this in reverse order. Take care not to pinch the cables between the I/O panel and the chassis.
Now you're ready to mount your shroud and "pusher" fan on the other side.
Once you've done that connect all your connectors and you should be ready to go.
Finito


















Well I hope that this will help anyone that owns a 932 and wants to mount their optional 12cm in place. It's such a handy feature.









~Ceadder









(_Image courtesy of_ *sintricate* Thanks sin







)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
How can I put mine below the I/O panel  ? I don't see how to take the upper part plastic (Where the on/reset buttons are) :/


----------



## RoyalGoat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Also are you using the stock Shin-Etsu TIM? This should be asked because if Corsair holds true to form, there is some reason to believe they use too much in the initial application. Half a grain of rice size app right in the middle of the CPU face should be plenty. Any more than that and it takes longer to cure and the thicker spread doesn't transfer heat as well.

I'm thinking that stock TIM is your issue. Also you shouldn't jump directly into OC'ing after mounting a new cooler. Let it run under normal loads for a few days and then when you feel comfortable then OC.









~Ceadder









Gotcha, thank you guys for your help







New to the forums but I'll definitely be returning knowing helpful people such as yourselves populate this place









I am using the stock TIM, so I'll probably replace that with some arctic silver when I get the chance; see how that does.


----------



## Ceadderman

Look for Shin-Etsu to replace the TIM with. That's what is used on the H50. The only reason it's not very good(over stating the not very part) is because they lay it on pretty thick. It's been quoted here more than enough that the Shin-Etsu TIM is the best you can buy for this application. I'm not sure what the cure time is on it but I believe it was next to 0 if memory serves me correctly.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *RoyalGoat* 
Gotcha, thank you guys for your help








New to the forums but I'll definitely be returning knowing helpful people such as yourselves populate this place









I am using the stock TIM, so I'll probably replace that with some arctic silver when I get the chance; see how that does.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Look for Shin-Etsu to replace the TIM with. That's what is used on the H50. The only reason it's not very good(over stating the not very part) is because they lay it on pretty thick. It's been quoted here more than enough that the Shin-Etsu TIM is the best you can buy for this application. I'm not sure what the cure time is on it but I believe it was next to 0 if memory serves me correctly.









~Ceadder










Exactly stated by Shin-Etsu and Corsair that it is 0 curing time(in all actuality it is not really zero it is at least one cycle of letting it heat up and "melt" into all the micro cracks and crevices and then letting it cool completely at least once.)


----------



## zefs

@ Ceadderman

This is where I placed mine, it fits perfectly. Do you think using the method you mention will get any better results? The way I have it now, air transfers from radiator to the back fan exhaust which is great.

Also, the drive bay seem to be working as a shroud, giving better results.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zefs*


Really impressed with this cooler so far. 
965 @ 4.1GHz stable / 32C idle 50C load

I have also attached the rad on the drive bay of my HAF 932, like kcuestag did.
Using push pull Scythe Slip Stream 1900RPM.


What vcore are you using, that is actually a too good temp to be true to be honest :/

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Yes you can. It's technically inside the case but to access the mounting you have to undo the panel.

Here's how you would do it if there was nothing in your HAF:

Lift up your insert from the top of your I/O panel
Revealing three mounting screws with philips slots
You undo these and slide the I/O panel carefully so you don't snag the cables on any obstacle.
When it's far enough off you will see the four mounting points for a 12cm fan. You will mount your H50 here(*INSIDE* the 5.25 bays *not* in-between the case and the I/O panel)with long enough bolts to secure your "puller" fan on top of your Rad.
Button it back up following this in reverse order. Take care not to pinch the cables between the I/O panel and the chassis.
Now you're ready to mount your shroud and "pusher" fan on the other side.
Once you've done that connect all your connectors and you should be ready to go.
Finito


















Well I hope that this will help anyone that owns a 932 and wants to mount their optional 12cm in place. It's such a handy feature.









~Ceadder









(_Image courtesy of_ *sintricate* Thanks sin







)



That did help









Btw, we have a very similar Pc (CPU/GPU







)


----------



## Ceadderman

Either way will work fine. But it depends on how many bays you wish to use. If you're using a shallow mount fan controller both work well. I just like having the ability to have my lower drivebays open for my Opticals and my uppers available for my shallow mount devices like media controller and fan controller. This also hides unsightly cabling. But so does yours.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *zefs*


@ Ceadderman

This is where I placed mine, it fits perfectly. Do you think using the method you mention will get any better results? The way I have it now, air transfers from radiator to the back fan exhaust which is great.

Also, the drive bay seem to be working as a shroud, giving better results.


----------



## zefs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


What vcore are you using, that is actually a too good temp to be true to be honest :/


Here here, take a look. Vcore is actually 1490 in bios.
I can't get past 4.1 though.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zefs*


Here here, take a look. Vcore is actually 1490 in bios.
I can't get past 4.1 though.


All I can say is, WOW.

You've got a golden chip...

I run 3.8Ghz @ 1.360v (Almost stock vcore for 3,4Ghz) however if I want to go to 4Ghz I need 1.5v ... (Or very close to 1.5v, can't remember).


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *zefs* 
Here here, take a look. Vcore is actually 1490 in bios.
I can't get past 4.1 though.

That's a great Vcore for a 4.1 OC I have been up to 1.55 and and 4.0 isn't even stable for me. I don't like the temps I get when I am around 1.55 or higher so haven't bothered to try any higher.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *zefs* 
Here here, take a look. Vcore is actually 1490 in bios.
I can't get past 4.1 though.

What operating system do you have? Your signature is a bit light on details. If it's windows XP that would explain a lot. 4.1 is normal for 32 bit operating system.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
What operating system do you have? Your signature is a bit light on details. If it's windows XP that would explain a lot. 4.1 is normal for 32 bit operating system.









Nice, we have same cpu/mobo







I'm at 3.8Ghz for now @ 1.36v, is it good/ok ?


----------



## zefs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


What operating system do you have? Your signature is a bit light on details. If it's windows XP that would explain a lot. 4.1 is normal for 32 bit operating system.










I am new here.
I use Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zefs*


I am new here.
I use Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit


Did you run any stability tests? (IE: Prime95, Linx, OCCT...)

I really doubt you're getting that OC 100% stable on a full stress test.

Too good to be honest, although could be possible, but never seen it before, you sure it's 100% stable?


----------



## AllLeafs

Add me as a proud member plz!


----------



## zefs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Did you run any stability tests? (IE: Prime95, Linx, OCCT...)

I really doubt you're getting that OC 100% stable on a full stress test.

Too good to be honest, although could be possible, but never seen it before, you sure it's 100% stable?


Check the picture on my previous post.
Intel Burn Test passed on standard settings.

It doesn't crash on games (even Bad Company 2) so I suppose yes it's stable !
Before that particular OC I was running 4GHz @ 1430 vcore.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zefs*


Check the picture on my previous post.
Intel Burn Test passed on standard settings.

It doesn't crash on games (even Bad Company 2) so I suppose yes it's stable !
Before that particular OC I was running 4GHz @ 1430 vcore.










Oh well, you should be happy with that chip, you've got a great CPU, I need almost 1.5v for 4Ghz ^^ So for now i'll just leave it at 3,8Ghz, don't need anymore for gaming.

Good OC there, enjoy it


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zefs*


Really impressed with this cooler so far. 
965 @ 4.1GHz stable / 32C idle 50C load

I have also attached the rad on the drive bay of my HAF 932, like kcuestag did.
Using push pull Scythe Slip Stream 1900RPM.


My 930 @ stock with H50 (stock fan) doesnt even get that


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ThumperSD*


My 930 @ stock with H50 (stock fan) doesnt even get that


I know, he is either living in the Antartica right in a house made of ice, or he is cooling his CPU with nitrogen crap, or he has gotten the best 965 chip sold in the world


----------



## Divine_Madcat

Well, i just finished my reworking, and there is certain improvement. I am running prime 95, and where before I would get a load temp of 58C, and right now, it is leveling at 50-51, with an occasional bump up to 52C (the max so far). Idiling was more impressive, being down around 33 (before i turned it off, it was idling at 40C).

Ironically, because the exhaust fan is also directly in line with the GPU, that is now idling about 4C cooler as well. Talk about an improvement!


----------



## demonsblood

hey guys, prospective h50 owner here:

so due to my motherboard socket and ram placement, large air coolers will probably not fit over my tall ramsinks...

now, I was wondering if anyone had this and a phenom ii x6 running at 4Ghz or in that vicinity of overclock and what was your voltage applied and temps!

thanks a bunch, also can anyone comment on how much (lose or gain) I would see between this cooler and a venomousX / Noctua D14??


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Yes you can. It's technically inside the case but to access the mounting you have to undo the panel.

Here's how you would do it if there was nothing in your HAF:

Lift up your insert from the top of your I/O panel
Revealing three mounting screws with philips slots
You undo these and slide the I/O panel carefully so you don't snag the cables on any obstacle.
When it's far enough off you will see the four mounting points for a 12cm fan. You will mount your H50 here(*INSIDE* the 5.25 bays *not* in-between the case and the I/O panel)with long enough bolts to secure your "puller" fan on top of your Rad.
Button it back up following this in reverse order. Take care not to pinch the cables between the I/O panel and the chassis.
Now you're ready to mount your shroud and "pusher" fan on the other side.
Once you've done that connect all your connectors and you should be ready to go.
Finito


















Well I hope that this will help anyone that owns a 932 and wants to mount their optional 12cm in place. It's such a handy feature.









~Ceadder









(_Image courtesy of_ *sintricate* Thanks sin







)


Did you screw the side of the rad? Isn't that what those holes are for? This is a nice idea! So you're just blowing fan down on it just to keep it cool anyways?


----------



## Fantomau

I have some AC MX-2 that I am gonna use to re-apply. How should I apply it to the cpu (Ci7-930)?


----------



## NightHawK360

I bought my H50 today. Gonna install it tomorrow. Can't wait to see my new temps!


----------



## elson

Quote:


Originally Posted by *demonsblood* 
hey guys, prospective h50 owner here:

so due to my motherboard socket and ram placement, large air coolers will probably not fit over my tall ramsinks...

now, I was wondering if anyone had this and a phenom ii x6 running at 4Ghz or in that vicinity of overclock and what was your voltage applied and temps!

thanks a bunch, also can anyone comment on how much (lose or gain) I would see between this cooler and a venomousX / Noctua D14??

A couple degrees will be gained on load, going from the above mentioned air cooler to the H50, probably around 3-5.


----------



## Ceadderman

No that's the stock H50 rad in its stock form. No holes into it other than what Corsair developed. You can just use their stock mounting screws for mounting in that location. The only difference is that you unbolt the I/O panel from the top of the 932 and that exposes 4 mounting holes for a 12cm fan.

I couldn't tell you the orientation of the fan however as that's not mine. It's what I will do with mine but that's Sintricate's rig. I'm assuming that he probably had it set up to intake. Personally I think that's fighting an uphill battle there as an intake since the I/O panel covers half the 12cm fan. Not alot of flow if you know what I mean. At least exhausting it won't make the fan work harder trying to pull air into the system. As far as adding pusher fan(in my case) I have to get longer screws to mount a gutted 12cm(shroud) and 12cm(pusher). There is absolutely no mod to that cooler that I'm aware of. Sintricate is a member of the 932/922 club and when I made mention of wondering if I could bolt there he posted the pic and said "like this?"







He's into full on h2o now I believe.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Did you screw the side of the rad? Isn't that what those holes are for? This is a nice idea! So you're just blowing fan down on it just to keep it cool anyways?


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


I know, he is either living in the Antartica right in a house made of ice, or he is cooling his CPU with nitrogen crap, or he has gotten the best 965 chip sold in the world 


or maybe has AC blowing straight at his H50 fans


----------



## TheLastPriest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheLastPriest* 
So I think my H50 is dying...LOL not really, but I have noticed, when I first hooked it up I got down to 26Â°c Idle and about 38Â°c Load, now about 3 months later in the same ambients I am getting an idle temp around 35Â°c and load around 47Â°c, nothing has changed in my setup, but the temps have surely increased. Any ideas?

It was most definitely my rad, I had blown some air at it through the fan on the inside of the case and nothing really came off. This time I actually took the fan off and it was surprising any air could get through, sitting at a 25Â°c idle again now that its clean







did some other cable management and actually got a drop on my 5870 as well (not H50 related but cool none the less)


----------



## zefs

I live in Greece. I think the placement of the rad on drive bay in addition to the HAF's airflow helps a lot.
What I noticed is that the case ambient dropped dramatically after installing the H50.
I got 8-10C lower temps on the 5870 than before(air cooling)


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheLastPriest* 
It was most definitely my rad, I had blown some air at it through the fan on the inside of the case and nothing really came off. This time I actually took the fan off and it was surprising any air could get through, sitting at a 25Â°c idle again now that its clean







did some other cable management and actually got a drop on my 5870 as well (not H50 related but cool none the less)

I might try that.

I remember getting way better temperatures abouta month about @ 3,8Ghz than now, so it could be the radiator is dirty.

Did you clean it with a hair dryer ? Or how?


----------



## pcnuttie

So basically from what everyone thinks, the front bay as intake seems the only way to go to have MUCH lower temps on your H50 then? Hmm..


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
I might try that.

I remember getting way better temperatures abouta month about @ 3,8Ghz than now, so it could be the radiator is dirty.

Did you clean it with a hair dryer ? Or how?

Hair dryer? you kidding me? Dude just use Air Compressor and Q tips. It doesn't take much to clean it off. If you got a Anti-Static Rag then you're good to go. Easy to clean it.


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
So basically from what everyone thinks, the front bay as intake seems the only way to go to have MUCH lower temps on your H50 then? Hmm..

Buh buh but I don't really have a front bay


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
Hair dryer? you kidding me? Dude just use Air Compressor and Q tips. It doesn't take much to clean it off. If you got a Anti-Static Rag then you're good to go. Easy to clean it.

No, with an air compressor you're going to damage the inside paint of the radiator, trust me, I've seen it before...

The most recommended way I heard was putting it in the shower (Careful not to wet the pump cable), that is the most clean way.

However people say Air Compressor is not recommended at ALL.


----------



## pcnuttie

shower? I cannot waste my time taking the rad off! It's a friggin H50! Who would wanna take it off and then end up not being able to use the stock thermal that came with it? Besides dude i meant Air Spray cans are just fine i am sure. It's not like it's gonna hurt the paint? I'm not talking about HUGE Air Compressors with generators lol. But it's a new thing, shower? I didn't know that.


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
shower? I cannot waste my time taking the rad off! It's a friggin H50! Who would wanna take it off and then end up not being able to use the stock thermal that came with it? Besides dude i meant Air Spray cans are just fine i am sure. It's not like it's gonna hurt the paint? I'm not talking about HUGE Air Compressors with generators lol. But it's a new thing, shower? I didn't know that.

You're fine with a can of compressed air.


----------



## pcnuttie

Yea i thought so


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
shower? I cannot waste my time taking the rad off! It's a friggin H50! Who would wanna take it off and then end up not being able to use the stock thermal that came with it? Besides dude i meant Air Spray cans are just fine i am sure. It's not like it's gonna hurt the paint? I'm not talking about HUGE Air Compressors with generators lol. But it's a new thing, shower? I didn't know that.

No mate, basically you take the main "part" of the shower thing (I called the head) and put it on the rad with a small amount of water, you don't need to take off the tubes / pump ...


----------



## zefs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
So basically from what everyone thinks, the front bay as intake seems the only way to go to have MUCH lower temps on your H50 then? Hmm..

Isn't it obvious? That way, you are using the standard case airflow.
Intake on the front, exhaust on the back.


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
No mate, basically you take the main "part" of the shower thing (I called the head) and put it on the rad with a small amount of water, you don't need to take off the tubes / pump ...

But that still requires you to either pull out the whole H50 and take it to the bathroom (rofl) or run water near your case while the rad is hanging out. So you're suggesting we bathe our radiator? No ****ing way LOL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *zefs* 
Isn't it obvious? That way, you are using the standard case airflow.
Intake on the front, exhaust on the back.

Sure, but getting *much* lower temps? I did it both ways in my 902 and it dropped 1 or 2 degrees, not to mention all that air coming off the rad was blowing onto my components.


----------



## zefs

Placing it on the back as an intake would also blow air into other components.
Placing it on the front as an intake and using a back exhaust fan would be healthier & better, I suppose.

I will try again different placements today and will post results.


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *zefs* 
Placing it on the back as an intake would also blow air into other components.
Placing it on the front as an intake and using a back exhaust fan would be healthier & better, I suppose.

I will try again different placements today and will post results.

Yes, I meant exhausting out the back or in my case up top.


----------



## zefs

I see. The good thing about the drive bay placement is that it works as fan shroud as well I suppose?


----------



## Jocelyn84

Sure, I did the whole shroud thing back when I was using GT 1850's in my 902 and temps _maybe_ dropped a degree. I even tried it on the bottom 180mm in my FT02 with a bracket. Same result...
I will agree it's fun to experiment with, but in the end its just not worth a degree or two _imo_.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes the front bay seems to be the way to go regardless of how you set up the Rad in the bay or on the ceiling. I'm doing the latter cause I'm going to be using all 6 of my bays. 2 of them with shallow mount devices, so it works for me. When I go full on h2o then I'll just rotate the orientation of my bay devices.









That Silverstone case shouldn't need to move anything around since the exhausts are set to the North. Okay sorta.









~Ceadder


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Im glad you sorted your high temps m8, and dropped quite a bit! Next week is when im going to be installing my new setup and my 5870. Got loads of "fat" cable ties for the front intake drive bay mount and the more and more I look up on my new fans the more and more I get excited at the low temps I shud be getting. Just gotta make sure now I reseat the H50 with new Shin-etsu paste correctly









Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


This.

I must say this week I had the H50 mounted on the rear part exhausting air.

But then I decided to move HAF 932 to the floor because it is more comfortable and I have more space, and then I realised that in the back of the case, there was a lot of heat.

I decided to put the H50 back on the Drive bays with some zip-ties as intake (I installed a fan filter on the first fan







Just don't want dust! ) and I gained 4ÂºC iddle and almost 7ÂºC on load









So deffinitly, put it in the front intaking fresh air, like I did.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84*


But that still requires you to either pull out the whole H50 and take it to the bathroom (rofl) or run water near your case while the rad is hanging out. So you're suggesting we bathe our radiator? No ****ing way LOL


I have a few friends with i7 980X which are really into liquid cooling, and that's how they do it, they say it's the best way to clean the radiator 100%, because with an air compressor some dust will always remain. Just saying, I didn't try yet, I might try it soon though.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*


Im glad you sorted your high temps m8, and dropped quite a bit! Next week is when im going to be installing my new setup and my 5870. Got loads of "fat" cable ties for the front intake drive bay mount and the more and more I look up on my new fans the more and more I get excited at the low temps I shud be getting. Just gotta make sure now I reseat the H50 with new Shin-etsu paste correctly










Yeah, my temps were pretty high because I have the HAF 932 next to the wall so all the heat from the H50 exhausts fans, the HD5970 and the PSU was all stuck together and the H50 radiator was pretty hot.

Now in front I lowered temps by 6ÂºC on load, that is pretty nice indeed.


----------



## zefs

Wouldn't throwing water into the radiator/fins make it rust?


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Aye, a little cooler today and our room is nicely aired out, very "stuffy" room tbh anyways but my current temps are

IDLE 41 37 38 38
MAX LOAD 59 55 54 54

So already you can see the diff to yesterday, Its all good new shin-etsu on its way with 70.4 pa 99cfm 38mm fans with shrouds and front bay mounted as intake soon!
With this new setup all done next week Ill post some screenies of temps/rig in general see what you guys think!









Cheers!

P.S cheers to whoever granted me my first +rep!!!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


What's your average temps Mate?

42c @ idle and 58c under 3.66Ghz load?

Doesn't look like there is a thing wrong with it. It looks like it's running well within parameters, but it definitely can't hurt to replace the stock TIM with slightly less and troupling the Rad with a could high cfm fans.

I look forward to seeing the results. But I would say there doesn't seem to be an issue with the H50. If you were running stock the temps would probably average 3-5c less and that falls within standard.

Just my









~Ceadder


----------



## Ceadderman

How did they dry their Rad kcuestag? Cause I'm pretty sure they don't get all the water off the Rad. There are much better ways of cleaning this thing without exposing my system to needless harmful moisture.

Don't do it man, I can see it now in a Reuters article "Man dies in shocking Corsair H50 accident, company spokespersons are dismayed that the the consumer ignored warnings about liquid and electricity" Iz wud be very sad if it turned out to be you.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


I have a few friends with i7 980X which are really into liquid cooling, and that's how they do it, they say it's the best way to clean the radiator 100%, because with an air compressor some dust will always remain. Just saying, I didn't try yet, I might try it soon though.

Yeah, my temps were pretty high because I have the HAF 932 next to the wall so all the heat from the H50 exhausts fans, the HD5970 and the PSU was all stuck together and the H50 radiator was pretty hot.

Now in front I lowered temps by 6ÂºC on load, that is pretty nice indeed.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zefs*


Wouldn't throwing water into the radiator/fins make it rust?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


How did they dry their Rad kcuestag? Cause I'm pretty sure they don't get all the water off the Rad. There are much better ways of cleaning this thing without exposing my system to needless harmful moisture.

Don't do it man, I can see it now in a Reuters article *"Man dies in shocking Corsair H50 accident, company spokespersons are dismayed that the the consumer ignored warnings about liquid and electricity"* Iz wud be very sad if it turned out to be you.









~Ceadder











Hahaha xD.

Nah, I won't do it, i'm scared to do such.

They dry it with a normal hair dryer, but I don't really trust that idea.

How would you clean it if you were me? I don't have an air compressor >.<


----------



## Ceadderman

Ummmm, well I'd buy an air compressor.









Here in the states canned air is about $7 US a can. Think of how many cans end up in the landfill. You can get a decent portable compressor for about $60. In a year it'll have paid for itself 100 times over. And they aren't so powerful they rip paint of anything. Only when they have some type of media in containment that is in the line. Either that or a good blower is a nice thing to have. You can get one of those for $70 bucks and it would double as a vacuum so it pays for itself relatively quickly too.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Hahaha xD.

Nah, I won't do it, i'm scared to do such.

They dry it with a normal hair dryer, but I don't really trust that idea.

How would you clean it if you were me? I don't have an air compressor >.<


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Ummmm, well I'd buy an air compressor.









Here in the states canned air is about $7 US a can. Think of how many cans end up in the landfill. You can get a decent portable compressor for about $60. In a year it'll have paid for itself 100 times over. And they aren't so powerful they rip paint of anything. Only when they have some type of media in containment that is in the line. Either that or a good blower is a nice thing to have. You can get one of those for $70 bucks and it would double as a vacuum so it pays for itself relatively quickly too.









~Ceadder










Ok thanks







I'll note that down, i'll need to look for one I guess


----------



## BioII

hey guys i just buy an a H50 from Untorris and i want to mod it. wich tubing, Reservoirs, termal paste, coolant and fans for push/pull recomend me. 
thanks.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BioII*


hey guys i just buy an a H50 from Untorris and i want to mod it. wich tubing, Reservoirs, termal paste, coolant and fans for push/pull recomend me. 
thanks.


Don't replace the thermal paste, the stock one is one of the best you'll find.


----------



## BioII

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Don't replace the thermal paste, the stock one is one of the best you'll find.


thanks for the advice!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BioII*


thanks for the advice!


Np


----------



## Josh154

May i join the club?

















Also how much of a difference will i see in temps going to 2 GT15's from a single stock corsair fan? I need to lower my temps by about 4C is that possible coming from the stock fan to 2 GT15's?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Josh154*


May i join the club?









Also how much of a difference will i see in temps going to 2 GT15's from a single stock corsair fan? I need to lower my temps by about 4C is that possible coming from the stock fan to 2 GT15's?


You will lower almost 10ÂºC on LOAD from stock fan to x2 Gentle Typhoon







Even more in some situations.


----------



## Josh154

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


You will lower almost 10ÂºC on LOAD from stock fan to x2 Gentle Typhoon







Even more in some situations.


Sweet! That will definitely be my next purchase!


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Ummmm, well I'd buy an air compressor.









Here in the states canned air is about $7 US a can. Think of how many cans end up in the landfill. You can get a decent portable compressor for about $60. In a year it'll have paid for itself 100 times over. And they aren't so powerful they rip paint of anything. Only when they have some type of media in containment that is in the line. Either that or a good blower is a nice thing to have. You can get one of those for $70 bucks and it would double as a vacuum so it pays for itself relatively quickly too.









~Ceadder









Most people have something much easier than buying a new air compressor not many households don't have one of these...it's called a vacuum cleaner. I know not all vacuum's have a way to detach the hose and easily clean something like the H50 radiator/fans but a lot of them do and many even have attachments and other things to aid with this. I use my vacuum to clean out my PC weekly. If you look online you can even find USB powered miniature vacuum cleaners.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Most people have something much easier than buying a new air compressor not many households don't have one of these...it's called a vacuum cleaner. I know not all vacuum's have a way to detach the hose and easily clean something like the H50 radiator/fans but a lot of them do and many even have attachments and other things to aid with this. I use my vacuum to clean out my PC weekly. If you look online you can even find USB powered miniature vacuum cleaners.

+1









I have a mini-vac that has a bristled attachment I use to really get in the fins (without bending them) and really get it clean









And fyi, you won't *static* shock your components, so no worries.


----------



## Ceadderman

@arbalest... that depends bro, it's pretty hard to discharge the static from a standard upright vacuum cleaner. Better safe than sorry imho. Best thing to do is like what you did and get a dedicated one that only sees your electronics.









Pretty sure I suggested a vacuum when I said you could get a "vacuum for about $70". But I wouldn't suggest a standard house Vac especially one that sees a carpet. Static discharge is NOT a good thing . Dirt Devil has an electronic kit that you can use to attach to the end of one of their hose standards and it comes with an adapter. Even still you won't see me using it cause my vacuum sees carpet.

This is what I'll be getting most likely;

Metro MDV-1BA Data Vac 1 Pro Series Metro Vacuum Cleaner

Or still may go with the $60 compressor I found at my local HomeDepot.

Another reason that I'm not so keen on home vacs' is because they are ungainly and if I have to get under my GPU and between my MoBo tray and PSU(bottom mounted) the hoses are a bit too large so I'd rather have the ability to reverse the flow. Most home Vacs don't do that anymore. The vac I linked to does however.

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Most people have something much easier than buying a new air compressor not many households don't have one of these...it's called a vacuum cleaner. I know not all vacuum's have a way to detach the hose and easily clean something like the H50 radiator/fans but a lot of them do and many even have attachments and other things to aid with this. I use my vacuum to clean out my PC weekly. If you look online you can even find USB powered miniature vacuum cleaners.


----------



## pcnuttie

I'm thinking of getting another H50 so i can have one i am currently using and the other as backup for experiments. Muahahah gonna take over the world today!.. What about you Pinky?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


@arbalest... that depends bro, it's pretty hard to discharge the static from a standard upright vacuum cleaner. Better safe than sorry imho. Best thing to do is like what you did and get a dedicated one that only sees your electronics.









Pretty sure I suggested a vacuum when I said you could get a "vacuum for about $70". But I wouldn't suggest a standard house Vac especially one that sees a carpet. Static discharge is NOT a good thing . Dirt Devil has an electronic kit that you can use to attach to the end of one of their hose standards and it comes with an adapter. Even still you won't see me using it cause my vacuum sees carpet.

This is what I'll be getting most likely;

Metro MDV-1BA Data Vac 1 Pro Series Metro Vacuum Cleaner

Or still may go with the $60 compressor I found at my local HomeDepot.

Another reason that I'm not so keen on home vacs' is because they are ungainly and if I have to get under my GPU and between my MoBo tray and PSU(bottom mounted) the hoses are a bit too large so I'd rather have the ability to reverse the flow. Most home Vacs don't do that anymore. The vac I linked to does however.

~Ceadder










Mine didn't come with it but I bought some hose attachments that go from the standard size down to 1/4" size and and they sell all kinds of mini attachments for the 1/4" size so fit in small crevasses and such. They do also have attachments that allow you to turn the suction of any vacuum into exhaust/blowing a lot cheaper to buy a few attachments at around $20 for everything than buying a whole new machine.

Besides standard vacuums a lot of people have shop vacs too which I think all offer vacuum and exhaust and already come with a lot of attachments.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


I'm thinking of getting another H50 so i can have one i am currently using and the other as backup for experiments. Muahahah gonna take over the world today!.. What about you Pinky?

















Fixed.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheLastPriest

I just used canned air and a baby wipe (once you have kids you use them for EVERYTHING) to clean the rad out it was no sweat, but in doing that and the rest of the case I went through the rest of my canned air, I have a 5 gallon compressor for my airbrush but I am far to lazy to dig it out. What I will recommend if you do use a compressor make sure you use an air line that has a moisture trap in it, compressing air creates condensation, in fact most compressors even have a drain valve on the bottom so the tank doesn't rust. So much moisture is created that a moisture trap is all but required while airbrushing because it will get in the paint, I can imagine that same moisture causing issues inside a computer case.


----------



## Ceadderman

Oh for sure. I guess I should have suggested the same too, but most competent sales people would suggest one anyway.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheLastPriest*


I just used canned air and a baby wipe (once you have kids you use them for EVERYTHING) to clean the rad out it was no sweat, but in doing that and the rest of the case I went through the rest of my canned air, I have a 5 gallon compressor for my airbrush but I am far to lazy to dig it out. What I will recommend if you do use a compressor make sure you use an air line that has a moisture trap in it, compressing air creates condensation, in fact most compressors even have a drain valve on the bottom so the tank doesn't rust. So much moisture is created that a moisture trap is all but required while airbrushing because it will get in the paint, I can imagine that same moisture causing issues inside a computer case.


----------



## Jay28

Finally got around to taking a pic of my H50 for the club. I know my wiring is a little messy but I was in a hurry that day







.


----------



## nvidiagamer

well guys, I'm getting ready to install my H50 today. I decided to put the fan as exhaust because in my case I have 1 fan as intake in the front and a huge exhaust fan at the top. It wouldn't make sense to put the H50's fan as intake, it would mess up the airflow entirely. Also, for now I'm only going to use one fan. I take a look at Corsair's article compairing airflow with 1 fan and 2. The difference is about 3 degrees. Which is nice, but to me it's not that significant. Please no one kill me! hahaha


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice can't wait to see the end result. Keep us updated, cool?









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *nvidiagamer*


well guys, I'm getting ready to install my H50 today. I decided to put the fan as exhaust because in my case I have 1 fan as intake in the front and a huge exhaust fan at the top. It wouldn't make sense to put the H50's fan as intake, it would mess up the airflow entirely. Also, for now I'm only going to use one fan. I take a look at Corsair's article compairing airflow with 1 fan and 2. The difference is about 3 degrees. Which is nice, but to me it's not that significant. Please no one kill me! hahaha


----------



## nvidiagamer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Nice can't wait to see the end result. Keep us updated, cool?









~Ceadder










I will!! I'm preparring everything right now. Man that video on Corsair's website is really helpful. The directions that come with the H50 are worthless LOL Well, I'll keep you guys updated!


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fantomau*


I have some AC MX-2 that I am gonna use to re-apply. How should I apply it to the cpu or h50 (Ci7-930)?


Anyone know as I plan to put it together tonight.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

I'm not sure what the exact method is for that TIM, but the usual amount for most is about half a grain of rice size in the middle of the cpu. Remember to apply a fair bit of pressure (not too much ofc) when seating the cooler so the spread of the TIM is more even.


----------



## zefs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fantomau*


Anyone know as I plan to put it together tonight.


There are some series on youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...Tuniq+TX3&aq=f

Please let us know of your results after the installation of your new thermal paste.


----------



## waar

nvm, got my answer!


----------



## mr-Charles

*HOT_DANG ! ! !*







Page _*900*_ and about's to hit posting's *# 9000* ! ! !







_*CONGRAT's*_ to you all, and keep it up & going







. . .







. . .









_mr-Charles_ .









.


----------



## mr-Charles

TADA ! ! ! ! _#9000 ( & page 900) . . . . . ._









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Demented

It's over 9000!!!


----------



## ablearcher

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
TADA ! ! ! ! _#9000 ( & page 900) . . . . . ._









mr-Charles .









.

reported for double post









j/k


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ablearcher*


reported for double post









j/k


















. . .







. . .







. . .







. . .







. . .








.....







ablearcher

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Magus2727

only page 450 for me







... I cant stand when people use page number to reference an old post...


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


only page 450 for me







... I cant stand when people use page number to reference an old post...



........







........







.........







.......







. . . . .







Magus2727

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Magus2727

mr-Charles... you seam like an odd person...









How did the lapping of our other H50 work out for you?


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


mr-Charles... you seam like an odd person...









How did the lapping of our other H50 work out for you?


..work'd out GREAT ! ! > > > and brought the temp's down good enough to deal with as well; 
From those previous posting's on this, If ya noticed those pic's of before showing of the copper base-plate being 
" high & low-centered ", VERY uneven for flatness upon the CPU, so the before temp's were REALLLY "out of range" 
[much to high, for being stock] . . .{ i think it was like posting's #7220 }
. . . but, i really didn't go as far as getting a " mirror " finish, just only used up 
to 800 to 1000 like grit and left it at that. This was suitable enough for me 
and is even better than the Original finish as from OEM, IMHO . . .

>>> "*...you seam like an odd person.* " . . .







...







...







.....









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## staryoshi

I'm rebuilding my PC. Swapped out the mobo and figured I'd redo the whole thing







Here's where I'm at now, ignore the ugliness I just had to get it functional until the rest of my bits get here and I can finish. I will also post pics when it is complete.

I like this new configuration







The CM 690 II Adv does fit a rad on top, but the H50 rad will not fit on the top front 140mm space, only the back one.


----------



## Hellfighter

While I'm still waiting on some more money to get a H50, I still have some more questions. How good is the H50, when it comes to transport? If I take my rig, and knowing our Michigan roads, I don't a slight bump to cause a leak. When I do get my H50, where's the best placement for the radiator/fans, considering that I don't want to loose any airflow for inside my tower. When I do get the extra fans, should I really get a controller, or can I just run them connected to the PSU and have them spinning 100% all the time?


----------



## Magus2727

I think the H50 will be great for transport... you don't have a huge eight torquing on you MB as you hit those bumps.


----------



## Fear of Oneself

You guys should try real watercooling you'll notice a great increase in skill, rep, respect from other users and your posts will be valued









**set the flamebait trap, wait for it...*


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Fear of Oneself* 
You guys should try real watercooling you'll notice a great increase in skill, rep, respect from other users and your posts will be valued









**set the flamebait trap, wait for it...*

$80 for performance on par with high-end air coolers or $2-300 for a custom loop that'll rox my sox... And possibly urinate all over my precious hardware... Not ready for that yet. I want to try setting up a loop just for my 5850


----------



## DQ Hero

Water cooling is water cooling. Anyways, how are my temps for my h50 push/pull with stock fans. I'm idling at 32c and loading at 55c. Again this is stock speeds with push/pull


----------



## Fear of Oneself

Quote:


Originally Posted by *staryoshi* 
$80 for performance on par with high-end air coolers or $2-300 for a custom loop that'll rox my sox... And possibly urinate all over my precious hardware... Not ready for that yet. I want to try setting up a loop just for my 5850









I put my chipset waterblock on very loosy goosy. Leaked all over my system...washed it, other than a 5770 that's got green waterspots, it's fine. Distilled ftw


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *staryoshi* 
$80 for performance on par with high-end air coolers or $2-300 for a custom loop that'll rox my sox... And possibly urinate all over my precious hardware... Not ready for that yet. I want to try setting up a loop just for my 5850









Yeah... But 60% of the time it works, every time!









*NOTE* All leaks are 99% of the time, end-user error...


----------



## DQ Hero

Holy crap, didn't realized this site turned into a bunch of people that just ***** about others parts..man its like we were invaded by of bunch of internet napoleon tuff guys. If you don't like the h50...how about you stay the help out of the h50 thread....holy ****..what a thought.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DQ Hero* 
Holy crap, didn't *realize* this site turned into a bunch of people that just talked *poo poo* about others parts..man *it's* like we were invaded by of bunch of internet napoleon tuff guys. If you don't like the h50...how about you stay the _*H-E-double-Hockey-Sticks*_ out of the h50 thread....holy _*donut holes batman!*_..what a thought.

Fixed


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


Yeah... But 60% of the time it works, every time!









*NOTE* All leaks are 99% of the time, end-user error...










Oh I'm not worried about the reliability of the unit, I'm sure that's sound. I'm worried about the reliability of me, the installer







I need a step-by-step guide to setting up a WC loop for my GPU... maybe with push-pull on a single 120mm rad like the h50... that should be enough.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *staryoshi*


Oh I'm not worried about the reliability of the unit, I'm sure that's sound. I'm worried about the reliability of me, the installer







I need a step-by-step guide to setting up a WC loop for my GPU... maybe with push-pull on a single 1120mm rad like the h50... that should be enough.


Like I said lol









Youtube some videos.. I remember there being quite a few on setting up a WC loop.

LEAK TEST this time









Funny, I say that, but i never have... I'm a bad example.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


Like I said lol







. . . LEAK TEST this time







. . . . 
. . . . . .Funny, I say that, but i never have... I'm a bad example.


. . .







. . .







. . .







...







...







...







...









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-charles*


. . .







. . .







. . .







...







...







...







...









Mr-charles .









.


lol. :d


----------



## Tchernobyl

<3 this thing. As mentioned earlier in the thread, my 3.4ghz ish chip went from 45 idle to 35ish. So i thought, hey, why not OC a bit? temps are now 42-43c idle, but... 3.8ghz. Stable ish, it ran one hour of prime95 before crashing... still! Pretty good so far, no crashes in games and whatnot.


----------



## pcnuttie

Proof? Sorry but that's not good enough. We need proof. Something we all require when you are mentioning something as that in forums. Pics or it never happened!


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Proof? Sorry but that's not good enough. We need proof. Something we all require when you are mentioning something as that in forums. Pics or it never happened!


What proof do you want and for what?


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tchernobyl*


<3 this thing. As mentioned earlier in the thread, my 3.4ghz ish chip went from 45 idle to 35ish. So i thought, hey, why not OC a bit? temps are now 42-43c idle, but... 3.8ghz. Stable ish, it ran one hour of prime95 before crashing... still! Pretty good so far, no crashes in games and whatnot.


Try a touch more vcore. Crashing after an hour of prime95 isn't stable and could possibly corrupt your OS over time, which is something you'd probably want to avoid.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Proof? Sorry but that's not good enough. We need proof. Something we all require when you are mentioning something as that in forums. Pics or it never happened!


You could really stop getting on people about proof. I have never once seen you post any pictures but yet you so freely ask for others to do so.


----------



## Tchernobyl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ljason8eg*


Try a touch more vcore. Crashing after an hour of prime95 isn't stable and could possibly corrupt your OS over time, which is something you'd probably want to avoid.


Ah? It's at 1.42 and change already, and I'm hesitant to go much further (the increments are fairly large on my mobo, for some reason...)

Regardless, here's a pic.


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


What proof do you want and for what?


Oh is he talking about you or was the clocks his? Well normally when it comes to clocks i just like to see proof than talk. I notice he's a new member and he claimed to overclock his cpu. I wanted proof


----------



## Bodycount

off topic sorry but alot of smart guys in here

but if i try to run my current boot drive "win 7 64" on a 680i
will i corrupt my install? or will it work at all?

"H50 replacement dreaded madness"

trying to build a temp system


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


Oh is he talking about you or was the clocks his? Well normally when it comes to clocks i just like to see proof than talk. I notice he's a new member and he claimed to overclock his cpu. I wanted proof










According to what it says over by your name your new too....

Why would anyone want to fake an OC then ask for help for a fake OC I mean come on waste everyone's time asking for proof of something that they would have no reason to lie about.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tchernobyl*


Ah? It's at 1.42 and change already, and I'm hesitant to go much further (the increments are fairly large on my mobo, for some reason...)

Regardless, here's a pic.



1.42 is still quite low. I don't have the same CPU but I have the similar 965 and have had it up to 1.62 Vcore and it is fine. You won't be able to maintain a stable OC without enough voltage to support the increased speeds.


----------



## DQ Hero

It will boot just fine. I just swapped my hd from a am3 board to an I7 and worked fine


----------



## Tchernobyl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
1.42 is still quite low. I don't have the same CPU but I have the similar 965 and have had it up to 1.62 Vcore and it is fine. You won't be able to maintain a stable OC without enough voltage to support the increased speeds.

That...actually seems kinda high. Everything I've read usually suggests not to go much past 1.5 vcore.

http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/49...oc-thread.html

Most of those are hovering around 1.5 or below, and none of the higher ones that use 1.6 seem to be stable at all :x


----------



## cybercub

Here's mine. Its on a push/pull but the air is flowing inside-> outside the case instead of the suggested outside->inside.

Two intakes in front and one on the side windows. Exhaust = h50 / top fan.

Idle 33
Load 53

Will eventually try reversing the push/pull to get air from outside case but I am not expecting a huge increase in this area. The video card exhaust out the back and not inside the case.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Fantomau* 
Anyone know as I plan to put it together tonight.

Apply it to the CPU and only put half a grain of rice on it. Be aware however you'll have approximately 8 days of cure time. You won't see any real drops in temp and won't be able to OC for that long either.

If you can get some Shin-Etsu, then I would do that but it's probably too late for that.

~Ceadder


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Apply it to the CPU and only put half a grain of rice on it. Be aware however you'll have approximately 8 days of cure time. You won't see any real drops in temp and won't be able to OC for that long either.

If you can get some Shin-Etsu, then I would do that but it's probably too late for that.

~Ceadder










Wait what?

*Why cant he OC while in the curing process?*

Maybe should be worded differently.
Can't OC while waiting for TIM to cure? or 
Can't OC for a substained period of time?

Cure time will not affect a overclock or overclocking in general. At most 3c-5c degree drop in core temp is expected
Cure time of TIM is when you will achieve optimal performance of said TIM.


----------



## Ceadderman

Meant the 2nd one of course. I apologize, I wasn't meaning to be vague.







lol

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Wait what?

*Why cant he OC while in the curing process?*

Maybe should be worded differently.
Can't OC while waiting for TIM to cure? or 
_*Can't OC for a sustained period of time?*_

Cure time will not affect a overclock or overclocking in general. At most 3c-5c degree drop in core temp is expected
Cure time of TIM is when you will achieve optimal performance of said TIM.


----------



## Hellknight

Quote:



originally posted by dq hero view post
holy crap, didn't realize this site turned into a bunch of people that just talked poo poo about others parts..man it's like we were invaded by of bunch of internet napoleon tuff guys. If you don't like the h50...how about you stay the h-e-double-hockey-sticks out of the h50 thread....holy donut holes batman!..what a thought.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


fixed











rofl!!!!!!


----------



## chatch15117

If I were to mount a H50 on my 470, would it keep it cool?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chatch15117*


If I were to mount a H50 on my 470, would it keep it cool?


I'm sure it would if you could find a way to shrink the H50 pump to a size to fit the GPU.









Oh and then lets not forget that gravity will play a big part in this idea too.









~Ceadder:drink


----------



## nvidiagamer

Well, I finally installed my H50. I love it! Like I stated earlier, I am just using the 1 fan it came with and I made the fan as exhaust. My temps at idle are about 35 degrees right now. I'm using prime95 small fft's right now, it's been running for about 20 minutes now and the hottest any of the cores have gotten is 68 degrees. What do you guys thing? Are those good temps?


----------



## Ceadderman

What's your ambient temp?

68c is a little high but that could be due to the TIM being fresh. Hard to say without all the information.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *nvidiagamer*


Well, I finally installed my H50. I love it! Like I stated earlier, I am just using the 1 fan it came with and I made the fan as exhaust. My temps at idle are about 35 degrees right now. I'm using prime95 small fft's right now, it's been running for about 20 minutes now and the hottest any of the cores have gotten is 68 degrees. What do you guys thing? Are those good temps?


----------



## pcnuttie

wait 8 days and come back.


----------



## ThirdLap

Well, looks like we're gonna have another massive influx of new members this week. Best Buy has it on sale again for $59.


----------



## nvidiagamer

Does it take 8 days for it to cure? I thought with the TIM they used it didn't have a break in period? Could it be because I'm only using one fan and I have it as exhaust? I know corsair recommends putting it as intake but it didn't make sense to me.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well as with any brand spankin new product there is a break in period. 8 days is plenty of time for the H50 to sort itself out. While it could be the single fan, it could be anything. Can't rule anything out at the moment and since TIM is probably the easiest to rule out, waiting 8 days gives you a better picture of the issue.

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *nvidiagamer* 
Does it take 8 days for it to cure? I thought with the TIM they used it didn't have a break in period? Could it be because I'm only using one fan and I have it as exhaust? I know corsair recommends putting it as intake but it didn't make sense to me.


----------



## ThirdLap

To throw some confusion on the fire, I've had zero change in temps since day one.


----------



## VZif

Here ya go...
enjoy:
http://www.overclock.net/small-form-...x-beastie.html


----------



## ThirdLap

Quote:


Originally Posted by *VZif* 
Here ya go...
enjoy:
http://www.overclock.net/small-form-...x-beastie.html











You know, the word 'epic' is thrown around far too easily these days. I don't think I'm too far off when i say you've redefined the term for at least this week. Awesome job.


----------



## nvidiagamer

Well, since I now have an extra case fan laying around because I used the fan that came with the H50. I decided to put that extra fan at the bottom of my case as another intake. Not sure if it will help any, but it should. I now have two intake fans, one in the front and now one at the bottom. Then I have two exhaust fans, the H50 fan and the huge fan at the top of the case that comes with the haf 932. Let's see what happens. I am very impressed with the h50 so far. I ran intel burn test and the hottest the cpu got was 61 degrees. With Prime95 it never got hotter than 68 and that was after 30 mins. I'm sure if I used two fans in push-pull config the temps would go down.


----------



## ThirdLap

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nvidiagamer* 
I ran intel burn test and the hottest the cpu got was 61 degrees. With Prime95 it never got hotter than 68 and that was after 30 mins.

Wait, so Intel chips get hotter with P95 than they do with IBT? Weird. It's the other way around with AMD chips.


----------



## nvidiagamer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ThirdLap*


Wait, so Intel chips get hotter with P95 than they do with IBT? Weird. It's the other way around with AMD chips.


Well with IBT, the cpu doesn't run at a full 100% during the entire test. It fluctuates. With Prime95, the cpu stays at 100% the entire time. I would think that's the reason why. Either way, I am now ready to overclock my cpu to hopefully 4 Ghz.


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ThirdLap*


Wait, so Intel chips get hotter with P95 than they do with IBT? Weird. It's the other way around with AMD chips.


Could have to do with HT on the i7 930. My i5 750 consistently runs 8-10 degrees hotter with IBT and LinX than it does with P95.


----------



## Fantomau

I just installed my 930 on a corsair H50. Temps are around 34 idle, Is that normal?

And win7 64 gives me a score of 5.9?


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Fantomau* 
I just installed my 930 on a corsair H50. Temps are around 34 idle, Is that normal?

Idle temps really don't matter and yes they're fine. What are your temps under load?


----------



## GoTMaXPoWeR

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Fantomau* 
I just installed my 930 on a corsair H50. Temps are around 34 idle, Is that normal?

And win7 64 gives me a score of 5.9?

Bear in mind it takes a few days for the stock TIM to burn in. AFAIK the only TIM that doesn't need to burn in is OCZ Freeze.


----------



## ThirdLap

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GoTMaXPoWeR* 
Bear in mind it takes a few days for the stock TIM to burn in. AFAIK the only TIM that doesn't need to burn in is OCZ Freeze.

I'd say over the last 10 years I've probably tried at least a dozen different TIMs, and can say that I've never seen a drop in temps that couldn't be attributed to some confounding variable. So 1Â° to 2Â°C, _maybe_. Nearly always there was essentially no change at all, even with the ones where the manufacturer stated a burn-in period.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Originally Posted by DQ Hero View Post
Holy crap, didn't realize this site turned into a bunch of people that just talked poo poo about others parts..man it's like we were invaded by of bunch of internet napoleon tuff guys. If you don't like the h50...how about you stay the H-E-double-Hockey-Sticks out of the h50 thread....holy donut holes batman!..what a thought.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
Fixed









Just great!


----------



## Wingzero

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Fantomau* 
I just installed my 930 on a corsair H50. Temps are around 34 idle, Is that normal?

And win7 64 gives me a score of 5.9?

Win7 is giving that because your hard drive is mechanical all mechanical HDD's are rated at 5.9 by win7 upgrade to an SSD to boost this number.


----------



## zefs

Has anyone tried placing the radiator on the very bottom of the case? On HAF 932 i noticed that the coldest case spot is the bottom-front where the intake fan is located, but I don't think the tubes are long enough to put it there.
Maybe if only the H50 was removed and re-applied which I am not planning to do


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes it's long enough to put there. But you'll have to mount a 12cm fan under it. This is a perfect use for a 3.8cm thick Delta. The problem though is that it's an entry point for alot of dust. So you'll need a filter of some sort. performance-pcs.com has a DEMCiflex filter kit for $40 that has a direct fit filter for the bottom as well as side and front. So if you can afford to make that purchase I highly recommend it. Hell even if you don't mount the H50 there I still recommend the filter kit.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *zefs*


Has anyone tried placing the radiator on the very bottom of the case? On HAF 932 i noticed that the coldest case spot is the bottom-front where the intake fan is located, but I don't think the tubes are long enough to put it there.
Maybe if only the H50 was removed and re-applied which I am not planning to do


----------



## zefs

Do you mean mounting it on the bottom as intake, where the fan screws are located?
I meant placing it on the bottom-front(hard drive bay). That way the rad would pull air from the front big fan, then push it on the PSU area.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup. That is indeed what I meant.









That's what I thought you meant too. But yes you can place it there in the bottom of the 5.25 bays too if you like. But there isn't a filter for the front under the device grills.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *zefs* 
Do you mean mounting it on the bottom as intake, where the fan screws are located?
I meant placing it on the bottom-front(hard drive bay). That way the rad would pull air from the front big fan, then push it on the PSU area.


----------



## zefs

How can it be placed there? tubes doesn't seem to be long enough for such placement.


----------



## Ceadderman

They are when you mount it on a thick standard 12cm fan.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *zefs*


How can it be placed there? tubes doesn't seem to be long enough for such placement.


----------



## sub7m19

Hi, I was interested in getting the h50 for my q6600. I currently have it oc'd at 3.3. with a voltage of 1.360v running a Zalman 9700 with idle temps around 34. Will the h50 pull/push config destroy the Zalman I currently have running ? If you guys could help it would be great, i've searched a lot and pretty much no one has a q6600 running an h50 :/


----------



## zefs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


They are when you mount it on a thick standard 12cm fan.









~Ceadder










I can't seem to be able to place it there even without the fans.
Could you please try so and post a picture?

I would be really interested to see the results when placed on that location.


----------



## Mike431635

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sub7m19*


Hi, I was interested in getting the h50 for my q6600. I currently have it oc'd at 3.3. with a voltage of 1.360v running a Zalman 9700 with idle temps around 34. Will the h50 pull/push config destroy the Zalman I currently have running ? If you guys could help it would be great, i've searched a lot and pretty much no one has a q6600 running an h50 :/


I'm running an X3220 which is a Xeon version of the Q6600 at 3.4GHz, voltage is similar to yours. It runs @ 60C full load with AC MX-2 paste.


----------



## Ceadderman

Where are you wanting it? in the Bays? On the floor?

If you want it on the floor of the case you NEED a thick fan under it.

If you want it in the bay you'll want the fittings at the very bottom of the bay facing toward the MoBo.

I'll try to find some pics in the 932 club. Hang on.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *zefs*


I can't seem to be able to place it there even without the fans.
Could you please try so and post a picture?

I would be really interested to see the results when placed on that location.


----------



## Markisa

Does anyone lap these? I saw my friend put one in and it was so. . 'rough'. I'm sure if it was lapped temps would be MUCH better, anyone experiment on here?


----------



## Ceadderman

@zefs, I looked for a pic of it mounted on the floor of the 932(I know I've seen it) but couldn't find it. I should be within the last 5 pages in the 932/922 club. Sorry bro. I do know there are pics that kcuestag posted in the very last page though that show his in the Bay, as well as another member who has theirs secure there. You should mosey over and take a look.









@Markisa in the last few pages here or the 932/922 club a guy posted YouTube footage of a H50 mod. One where he lapped both the CPU and the H50 pump.

I'd look for you but my fingers are about done for the day and I have 2 papers due today so I'm headed for a nap and then I'm back at it when I get up.

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Markisa* 
Does anyone lap these? I saw my friend put one in and it was so. . 'rough'. I'm sure if it was lapped temps would be MUCH better, anyone experiment on here?


----------



## Markisa

Haha no prob Ceadderman, thanks for the info. Thats weird, never heard of lapping a pump. . unless that's just an aesthetics thing.


----------



## Ceadderman

He lapped the contact point not the pump itself.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Markisa* 
Haha no prob Ceadderman, thanks for the info. Thats weird, never heard of lapping a pump. . unless that's just an aesthetics thing.


----------



## sub7m19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mike431635*


I'm running an X3220 which is a Xeon version of the Q6600 at 3.4GHz, voltage is similar to yours. It runs @ 60C full load with AC MX-2 paste.


I just managed to tweek some settings.. i got 3.2 with 1.28v. with idle temps around 33-37 for all four cores :/.


----------



## zefs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


@zefs, I looked for a pic of it mounted on the floor of the 932(I know I've seen it) but couldn't find it. I should be within the last 5 pages in the 932/922 club. Sorry bro. I do know there are pics that kcuestag posted in the very last page though that show his in the Bay, as well as another member who has theirs secure there. You should mosey over and take a look.










Here's a quick mock up for the rad placement I am looking for:


----------



## M5Yates

If you've been waiting for the H50 to go back on sale, now is your chance:
http://tinyurl.com/corsairH50-BB

.


----------



## M5Yates

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ThirdLap* 
Well, looks like we're gonna have another massive influx of new members this week. Best Buy has it on sale again for $59.

missed this post.
bump


----------



## XtachiX

hey there, so i have decided to re-seat my h50 and to also remove the Shin-Etsu to apply arctic silver 5
here are my results (since i dont feel like uploading any photos)
cpu: q9550 @ 3.39ghz 1.120v (at full load) 1.152v (at idle??? weird)
core temps
with arctic silver 5
idle
core1: 38 core2 : 38 core3: 39 core4: 39
load
core1: 47 core2 : 48 core3: 49 core4: 46

with Shin-Etsu
idle
core1: 40 core2 : 40 core3: 41 core4: 41
load
core1: 51 core2 : 49 core3: 50 core4: 52

the arctic silver needs 200 hours for it to heal and produce best results, and i just applied it. that's freaken awesome. i'll see the temps after 200 hours hehehe
very promising results


----------



## ThirdLap

Quote:


Originally Posted by *XtachiX* 
hey there, so i have decided to re-seat my h50 and to also remove the Shin-Etsu to apply arctic silver 5

So you replaced one of the best TIMs one the market with a mediocre one?









The decrease in temps you saw was likely due to you using a more reasonable amount of TIM; the amount of Shin-Etsu that Corsair applies is far too much.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


Originally Posted by *XtachiX* 
hey there, so i have decided to re-seat my h50 and to also remove the Shin-Etsu to apply arctic silver 5
here are my results (since i dont feel like uploading any photos)
cpu: q9550 @ 3.39ghz 1.120v (at full load) 1.152v (at idle??? weird)
core temps
with arctic silver 5
idle
core1: 38 core2 : 38 core3: 39 core4: 39
load
core1: 47 core2 : 48 core3: 49 core4: 46

with Shin-Etsu
idle
core1: 40 core2 : 40 core3: 41 core4: 41
load
core1: 51 core2 : 49 core3: 50 core4: 52

the arctic silver needs 200 hours for it to heal and produce best results, and i just applied it. that's freaken awesome. i'll see the temps after 200 hours hehehe
very promising results

Hmm...I was originally going to leave the stock TIM that's on the H50 there for my first time setting this thing up, but this is giving me some pause. I have some MX-2 as well as some AS5 (I think), so what is the general opinion on whether or not to replace the stock TIM immediately, or to let it go, and see how the temps are? While the initial installation will be a bit involved, replacing the TIM won't be as difficult. I'm really excited about setting this thing up, and would love to get the best results first.


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Demented* 
Hmm...I was originally going to leave the stock TIM that's on the H50 there for my first time setting this thing up, but this is giving me some pause. I have some MX-2 as well as some AS5 (I think), so what is the general opinion on whether or not to replace the stock TIM immediately, or to let it go, and see how the temps are? While the initial installation will be a bit involved, replacing the TIM won't be as difficult. I'm really excited about setting this thing up, and would love to get the best results first.









Read the post above yours.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84* 
Read the post above yours.

I did, and that along with the other post I quoted is what gave me pause. I also can apply a more reasonable amount of TIM, and have two pretty good ones to choose from. I have never used Sin-Etsu, but have read it is a great TIM. So if better application of a different TIM will yield better temps, that is what I'm going for. I'd actually like to hear from people who left it as it is, and what temps they are getting.


----------



## Jocelyn84

Well, I left it on. I hit around 70 under IBT/LinX and 62-63 under P95, however a lot of this could have to do with my case.


----------



## nvidiagamer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84*


Well, I left it on. I hit around 70 under IBT/LinX and 62-63 under P95, however a lot of this could have to do with my case.


These are the EXACT temps that I am getting and I have my fan as exhaust. I also have an HAF 932. So I think your temps are normal.


----------



## Nakattk

I am going to build my first computer, and I was thinking of using the H50 for my cooler. *Everyday I turn my computer on and off, I never leave it on for extended periods of time. I am wondering if the H50 or any water setup will be ok in that environment? Is it ok to put it in a computer that is not always running? * I know it may be ok to leave the computer running but it's just a piece of mind thing to me.

*Also Best Buy has it now for $60.*


----------



## navit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demented*


I did, and that along with the other post I quoted is what gave me pause. I also can apply a more reasonable amount of TIM, and have two pretty good ones to choose from. I have never used Sin-Etsu, but have read it is a great TIM. So if better application of a different TIM will yield better temps, that is what I'm going for. I'd actually like to hear from people who left it as it is, and what temps they are getting.










My idle temps are 32c load 46c with stock tim, sometimes they get it right


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nvidiagamer*


These are the EXACT temps that I am getting and I have my fan as exhaust. I also have an HAF 932. So I think your temps are normal.


What? I was replying to someone and I don't have a ***** Haf 932 lol. I know my temps are normal, but thanks.


----------



## nvidiagamer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jocelyn84*


What? I was replying to someone and I don't have a ***** Haf 932 lol. I know my temps are normal, but thanks.










I'm sorry LOL I thought you were wondering if your temps were ok. Sorry, I should have went back a page and read some more LOL


----------



## thisispatrick

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nakattk*


I am going to build my first computer, and I was thinking of using the H50 for my cooler. *Everyday I turn my computer on and off, I never leave it on for extended periods of time. I am wondering if the H50 or any water setup will be ok in that environment? Is it ok to put it in a computer that is not always running? * I know it may be ok to leave the computer running but it's just a piece of mind thing to me.

*Also Best Buy has it now for $60.*


That's around the same way I use my computer. I also did pick one up recently at Best Buy for the same price. I think should be fine as long as the water doesn't stagnate. Will be picking mine up on Tuesday.


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nvidiagamer* 
I'm sorry LOL I thought you were wondering if your temps were ok. Sorry, I should have went back a page and read some more LOL

Ahaha its cool, I was just messing around anyway. +1 for the laugh


----------



## Genome

How are these temps? I took a screen one day thinking it is pretty decent. Although it is idle I will do a test when I have time and post here.

[email protected]
HAF 922

I also love my 5870 Vapor-x. Those temps surprised me but it down clocked it self to 157 and 300


----------



## captain_clayman

i am so in.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pcnuttie*


So it's fine. I'm only at 3ghz anyways. I know i have room to go maybe 4ghz but i'm nervous because i never done higher clocks and i don't wanna have to re-adjust everything in bios lol. I might when the time comes. I hope i don't kill my motherboard lol.


If you ever get to 4 GHz, let me know how you did it... coz Im hitting the wall at 3.8 Ghz


----------



## Prugor

Finally found my transfer cable to charge my camera.


----------



## Nightz2k

I'm in, I took advantage of the Best Buy sale for $60 _($64.85 w/tax)_.









It was hard to pass up, so I went for it. Now I just gotta sell my DK to get a little back of what I paid. lol









I didn't change the TIM that came with it, cause I heard it's good enough _(Shin Etsu ?)_, so I'm not sure if it needs curing, but so far it's not bad idle anyway. I'll see in a day or 2, it should improve otherwise. I have *OCZ Freeze* for backup.

Right now, doing Push/Pull to the exhaust _(out to the back)_. Being that I have 2 GPU's that get plenty hot, probably best way for me. Install wasn't too bad, fairly easy. I hope to get better fans someday.









Anyways, onto the pics!








_(*NOTE*: Temporarily using 2 screws per fan until I get around to the hardware shop)_


----------



## kcuestag

No need to go for the hardware shop to get another screws, 2 per fan is more than enough


----------



## Demented

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


No need to go for the hardware shop to get another screws, 2 per fan is more than enough










There's no real NEED to get them, but if your hardware shop is around the corner, and 4 screws cost only $.52, it's not a big deal to go and get them either.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demented*


There's no real NEED to get them, but if your hardware shop is around the corner, and 4 screws cost only $.52, it's not a big deal to go and get them either.










That is true indeed, but you may wanna save those $.52 for your next buy haha







Nah just kidding.

Buy them if you really want them, although they aren't needed, I had same issue first day I bought H50, but then I realised 2 screws per fan was enough, even for heavy fans.


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
If you ever get to 4 GHz, let me know how you did it... coz Im hitting the wall at 3.8 Ghz

You gotta remember every motherboard is different. Some can go 4ghz without a hiccup or some have to tweak to keep it stable or some just stuck at 3.8. I haven't bothered to try anything yet because i need to hear more tips from the 750i mobo thread that's based on my mobo. I don't really wanna adjust anything cuz i know i am fine at 3ghz and i do KNOW we won't get any more fps if we do clock it more. A theory i have but it's been known you won't get much more performance if you do clock it further but it's been known to increase performance eventhough some claim it don't. O well. I have thought of moving the rad inside my 5.25 bay where it normally is designed for a pump to sit there since it's a 1200 and i read the manual it was designed for water cooling and thought about maybe lying the rad in there and have a fan just blow air on it as a intake. I don't know if should lol. Temps are fine. I just wanna see if something can change if i can move the rad away from my sli set up.


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


That is true indeed, but you may wanna save those $.52 for your next buy haha







Nah just kidding.

Buy them if you really want them, although they aren't needed, I had same issue first day I bought H50, but then I realised 2 screws per fan was enough, even for heavy fans.


Yeah I see what you mean, there's no real issue, just for aesthetics basically. It looks funny to me with 2 screws.









Hardware store isn't just around the corner for me, but not far either. I'll just get them when I know I'll be near one sometime.


----------



## Ceadderman

You'll want to flip that rad so that the fittings are at the bottom. Right there the Rad can build up air pockets and block flow. You won't notice a difference but your pump will.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nightz2k*


Yeah I see what you mean, there's no real issue, just for aesthetics basically. It looks funny to me with 2 screws.









Hardware store isn't just around the corner for me, but not far either. I'll just get them when I know I'll be near one sometime.


----------



## Prugor

Can't flip it, the tubes are already at their max length. Or I would have to find more room at the top of my case that I doubt I could manage. And in the 2 months of running basically 24/7, there hasn't been a change in RPM or performance, cept the increase in ambient temps due to the seasons changing in Oklahoma. Long dry winter, very short spring, early summer temps.


----------



## XtachiX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ThirdLap* 
So you replaced one of the best TIMs one the market with a mediocre one?









The decrease in temps you saw was likely due to you using a more reasonable amount of TIM; the amount of Shin-Etsu that Corsair applies is far too much.

well actually arctic silver 5 is awesome, so either way i had to replace it since they put too much of shin-etsu
i have read somewhere the listings of TIM and as5 along with one of the shin-etsu were about the same level in terms of effectiveness. can't remember though


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
You'll want to flip that rad so that the fittings are at the bottom. Right there the Rad can build up air pockets and block flow. You won't notice a difference but your pump will.









~Ceadder









I agree with ya, but I looked at a lot of setups in this thread before I installed it. Majority seem to have it the way I do. I didn't think it was a bad thing. Obviously I didn't check 900 pages, but I checked quite a bit of them.









If it'll cause issues later on, I'll definitely change it around, if I needed.


----------



## Prugor

Bah, my mistake. ^_^!


----------



## Ceadderman

I was speaking to Nightz2k. He's got his Rad with the fittings up. The fittings need to be down so they stay liquid filled. The other way promotes air blocking.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Prugor* 
Can't flip it, the tubes are already at their max length. Or I would have to find more room at the top of my case that I doubt I could manage. And in the 2 months of running basically 24/7, there hasn't been a change in RPM or performance, cept the increase in ambient temps due to the seasons changing in Oklahoma. Long dry winter, very short spring, early summer temps.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

This entire wkd has been an absolute swelter! And in turn my temps have been goin nuts.

Overclocked 3.66
Idle 46 42 42 43
Max load 63 60 59 59

















CPUID differs a little but real temp/speedfan correspond so i guess there the ones to go with.
Our friggin room just has no air to breathe at the moment damn the UK for being so friggin humid!
I feel with our new house move in just around the corner, going to have to get an air conditioning unit. Getting my new fans and such this week, and even though these temps are still lower than most it bleedin messes with me head when my temps rise like this!
From what I have been reading in the last few pages, front intake mounted in the drive bays (preferably with shrouds) is the way to go aye ? no one has come up with an absolute stinker of a new mounting possition ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Not sure I trust CPUID too much since it's stating that my CPU temps are 85c on the average. And I have ALOT of airflow on my MoBo. Everything else seems to be frigid...

MoBo is supposedly 33c average
All my cores are 32c average
Hitachi is 31c average.

So I don't see how it could come up with an 85c is that my onboard GPU that is that temp? It lists it as nVidia nForce3(glad this thing is a loaner board. Ready to move into mine







) but states CPU as well. If that's onboard GPU too bad Corsair doesn't make a cooler for that too.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd* 
This entire wkd has been an absolute swelter! And in turn my temps have been goin nuts.

Overclocked 3.66
Idle 46 42 42 43
Max load 63 60 59 59

















CPUID differs a little but real temp/speedfan correspond so i guess there the ones to go with.
Our friggin room just has no air to breathe at the moment damn the UK for being so friggin humid!
I feel with our new house move in just around the corner, going to have to get an air conditioning unit. Getting my new fans and such this week, and even though these temps are still lower than most it bleedin messes with me head when my temps rise like this!
From what I have been reading in the last few pages, front intake mounted in the drive bays (preferably with shrouds) is the way to go aye ? no one has come up with an absolute stinker of a new mounting possition ?


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd* 
Our friggin room just has no air to breathe at the moment damn the UK for being so friggin humid!
I feel with our new house move in just around the corner, going to have to get an air conditioning unit. Getting my new fans and such this week, and even though these temps are still lower than most it bleedin messes with me head when my temps rise like this!
From what I have been reading in the last few pages, front intake mounted in the drive bays (preferably with shrouds) is the way to go aye ? no one has come up with an absolute stinker of a new mounting possition ?

Yeah, mine too. Ambient is at 25c already..
The heat given out by your GTX275 can't be helping, my HD5870 is idling @ 33c!


----------



## zefs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *XtachiX* 
well actually arctic silver 5 is awesome, so either way i had to replace it since they put too much of shin-etsu
i have read somewhere the listings of TIM and as5 along with one of the shin-etsu were about the same level in terms of effectiveness. can't remember though

Could you remove the AS5, lap the H50(doesn't void warranty) and re-apply?
Then post some results before and after lapping for us?


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Not sure I trust CPUID too much since it's stating that my CPU temps are 85c on the average. And I have ALOT of airflow on my MoBo. Everything else seems to be frigid...

MoBo is supposedly 33c average
All my cores are 32c average
Hitachi is 31c average.

So I don't see how it could come up with an 85c is that my onboard GPU that is that temp? It lists it as nVidia nForce3(glad this thing is a loaner board. Ready to move into mine







) but states CPU as well. If that's onboard GPU too bad Corsair doesn't make a cooler for that too.









~Ceadder









Aye it could be your on board gpu, I remember one of my old MB had a ****ty little ATi thing and it ran friggin hot! I shouldnt worry about that to much at all tbh.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pedrosa* 
Yeah, mine too. Ambient is at 25c already..
The heat given out by your GTX275 can't be helping, my HD5870 is idling @ 33c!

Aye! Well my 5870 is being purchased tmoz! And then I'll be moving my rad/fans away from the main heat generating culprits, well it will be above my HDD, but they run pretty cool tbh.
System temp is like 42c now, and weather is stating outside temps at 22c but I know its hotter than that, and ofc our room is going to be at least 25c ambient.
Its becasue we have so much friggin ****e in here no room to move about!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
You gotta remember every motherboard is different. Some can go 4ghz without a hiccup or some have to tweak to keep it stable or some just stuck at 3.8. I haven't bothered to try anything yet because i need to hear more tips from the 750i mobo thread that's based on my mobo. I don't really wanna adjust anything cuz i know i am fine at 3ghz and i do KNOW we won't get any more fps if we do clock it more. A theory i have but it's been known you won't get much more performance if you do clock it further but it's been known to increase performance eventhough some claim it don't. O well. I have thought of moving the rad inside my 5.25 bay where it normally is designed for a pump to sit there since it's a 1200 and i read the manual it was designed for water cooling and thought about maybe lying the rad in there and have a fan just blow air on it as a intake. I don't know if should lol. Temps are fine. I just wanna see if something can change if i can move the rad away from my sli set up.

Well, I just got to 3.92 Ghz... 20 passes on Intelburn, OCCT and Prime. Gonna call it stable until proven otherwise









I want to get the CPU up coz Im folding and SMP seems the way to go ATM. This little H50 never ceases to amaze me in keeping the ol' CPU cool... happy trails!


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Well, I just got to 3.92 Ghz... 20 passes on Intelburn, OCCT and Prime. Gonna call it stable until proven otherwise









I want to get the CPU up coz Im folding and SMP seems the way to go ATM. This little H50 never ceases to amaze me in keeping the ol' CPU cool... happy trails!


----------



## ChocolateBadger

Hey im new to this forum...i just wanted to know is there any official way to jion this club or do you just have to own an H50? Heres my PC


----------



## thisispatrick

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChocolateBadger* 







Hey im new to this forum...i just wanted to know is there any official way to jion this club or do you just have to own an H50? Heres my PC

Basically just own a H50


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChocolateBadger* 







Hey im new to this forum...i just wanted to know is there any official way to jion this club or do you just have to own an H50? Heres my PC

And pop your name on the spreadsheet on the first page of this thread.

Welcome!


----------



## burningrave101

Those of you with i7's what kind of temps are you seeing with the H50 when clocked at 4Ghz and higher using the H50? Anyone at 4.2Ghz (HT on) with good temps using the H50?


----------



## toast3d

Jumping back here w/ some info i found around our site!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PC Gamer* 
Best Buy has the Corsair H50 on sale again for $60! All models should be H50-1s(includes AMD bracket).
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Corsair+...ustomerreviews


----------



## Ceadderman

Newegg beats that with combos of CPUs'.









But it is good to know if you don't need a CPU.









~Ceadder









*Edit* Anyone know the part number of the Shin-Etsu with zero cure time? I'm looking it up in Google right now trying to get a price on it. They don't have it at newegg unfortunately.







Is it X23?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *toast3d* 
Jumping back here w/ some info i found around our site!


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
I was speaking to Nightz2k. He's got his Rad with the fittings up. The fittings need to be down so they stay liquid filled. The other way promotes air blocking.









~Ceadder









Thanks for the help, it's been corrected.









New updated pics.


----------



## KruperTrooper

Just bought my H50 from BestBuy for $60.







Now I just gotta wait to get enough money to order the rest of my rig.


----------



## kpopsaranghae

Quote:


Originally Posted by *burningrave101* 
Those of you with i7's what kind of temps are you seeing with the H50 when clocked at 4Ghz and higher using the H50? Anyone at 4.2Ghz (HT on) with good temps using the H50?

Its all about ur volts. Im running my i7 930 @ 4.2 ghz HT on at 1.344 V. LinX temps go to about 84 tho, its a bit toasty, but those are linx temps so yeah. I am using diamond ic 7 TIM which i heard is pretty good stuff so yeah :] But in the end, its all about ur voltage, i mean if i had a godly i7 that could hit 4.2 at low volts like 1.25, i wouldnt even break 80 :]


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *burningrave101* 
Those of you with i7's what kind of temps are you seeing with the H50 when clocked at 4Ghz and higher using the H50? Anyone at 4.2Ghz (HT on) with good temps using the H50?

4.2Ghz with HT enabled and hit the high 70's for me with a push-pull config and high 60's to low 70's on one core at 4.0 with HT. Ambient ~19-21C

I hate how hot intel chips run, however, I love how power efficient and load-specific they are. Running at 3.36Ghz with EIST, Turbo, and HT right now because I don't need more power for gaming. downclocks to 1.4Ghz when idle







Maybe Phenoms run cooler because they are bigger... more surface area to dissipate heat


----------



## kpopsaranghae

Quote:



Originally Posted by *staryoshi*


4.2Ghz with HT enabled and hit the high 70's for me with a push-pull config and high 60's to low 70's on one core at 4.0 with HT. Ambient ~19-21C

I hate how hot intel chips run, however, I love how power efficient and load-specific they are. Running at 3.36Ghz with EIST, Turbo, and HT right now because I don't need more power for gaming. downclocks to 1.4Ghz when idle










Wow those temps are amazing :O what voltage are r u running to get to 4.2?


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kpopsaranghae*


Wow those temps are amazing :O what voltage are r u running to get to 4.2?


A lot, lol. I think it was around 1.464 or a bit higher. Took about 1.4 to hit 4.0Ghz with HT on the Tpower i55 I had. Those temps/clocks were from that board. I can do 4.0 w/ht on this one, maybe more, as well.


----------



## kpopsaranghae

Quote:



Originally Posted by *staryoshi*


A lot, lol. I think it was around 1.464 or a bit higher. Took about 1.4 to hit 4.0Ghz with HT on the Tpower i55 I had. Those temps/clocks were from that board. I can do 4.0 w/ht on this one, maybe more, as well.


dang ambients must make a hell of a difference then, cuz i hit 84 on linx with my 4.2 ghz oc, and that is with 1.344 V. My ambients are around 24-25 C :/ or do u think there is something wrong with my h50?


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kpopsaranghae*


dang ambients must make a hell of a difference then, cuz i hit 84 on linx with my 4.2 ghz oc, and that is with 1.344 V. My ambients are around 24-25 C :/ or do u think there is something wrong with my h50?


i7 9xx require less voltage. Those temps seem about right for that chip and the h50 assuming you have HT enabled. Ambient temps make a HUGE difference with the h50.


----------



## kpopsaranghae

Quote:



Originally Posted by *staryoshi*


i7 9xx require less voltage. Those temps seem about right for that chip and the h50 assuming you have HT enabled. Ambient temps make a HUGE difference with the h50.


lol ok thanks. im not that worried about linx temps since i never hit that. Even when i game i dont get passed 67 C so im still happy :] only reason i am running it at 4.2 ghz is because i want to run my ram at 1600 mhz :] and i cant seem to get 20x200 bclk stable without a lot more voltage than 191x21. Dam even multipliers, ROFLMAO


----------



## ben h

just got mine








running in a push pull with 2 Rosewill RFA-120-K
so far its just a 1-3C temp dif then my air cooler waz on load idle is 1-3 lower also
how long does it take for the stock thermal past to set?










also are the tubes sopose 2 be at the top or bottom?
iv seen them both ways in this thred


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ben h*


just got mine








running in a push pull with 2 Rosewill RFA-120-K
so far its just a 1-3C temp dif then my air cooler waz on load idle is 1-3 lower also
how long does it take for the stock thermal past to set?

also are the tubes sopose 2 be at the top or bottom?
iv seen them both ways in this thred


No cure time for Shin Estu (stock TIM), it does however need a few heat cycles to work its way into all the nooks and crannies









Tubes,,, anyway you want them, its all good.


----------



## ben h

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


No cure time for Shin Estu (stock TIM), it does however need a few heat cycles to work its way into all the nooks and crannies









Tubes,,, anyway you want them, its all good.


ahh kk

and ty imma try and straiten them out a lil bit so there isnt as much as a curv


----------



## KG363

how good are these compared to my sig cooler? Thinking about picking one up


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ben h*


ahh kk

and ty imma try and straiten them out a lil bit so there isnt as much as a curv


There is really no need unless you want to do for aesthetic purposes









Quote:



Originally Posted by *KG363*


how good are these compared to my sig cooler? Thinking about picking one up


I had a Xiggy Thor's Hammer... the big brother of your cooler. Temps with the H50 where initially better than the Hammer. Now with 2 x Scythe UKs 2000s and some shrouds... even better


----------



## KG363

thanks! +rep

I'll see if I can gather the funds


----------



## ben h

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KG363*


how good are these compared to my sig cooler? Thinking about picking one up


i had exact same cooler as u
i think u will have a better result then me cuz im starting to think my cou just stayes at them temps


----------



## ben h

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


There is really no need unless you want to do for aesthetic purposes









I had a Xiggy Thor's Hammer... the big brother of your cooler. Temps with the H50 where initially better than the Hammer. Now with 2 x Scythe UKs 2000s and some shrouds... even better










ya to make it look better and for water flow its half arse kinked

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KG363*


thanks! +rep

I'll see if I can gather the funds


ya there on sale at best buy this week for 59.99
just pick up all ur change u can find 
thats wat i did and it paid for it along with a 10$ gift card


----------



## Ceadderman

Not entirely true. It's true for this TIM, but there are a couple of different user applied Shin-Etsu TIM and one of them does have a cure time. In fact this will be the second time I ask which one is 0 cure TIM. I found a couple of places that have it in stock and I want to pick up some but I need to know which one is 0 cure TIM. Yes I realize that it still has a cure time but it's minimal at best.

So anyone than can let me know which version it would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
No cure time for Shin Estu (stock TIM), it does however need a few heat cycles to work its way into all the nooks and crannies









Tubes,,, anyway you want them, its all good.


----------



## dracotonisamond

wow, i just got my H50 2 hours ago and ive fallen in love








i scraped off the pre applied TIM and applied my own Tuniq TX-2 and slapped on a antec tri-cool fan in pull and now i have 54C temps at 4.02GHz instead of 75C with my cooler master Hyper N520 <3

Time to see how much further this rabbit hole goes


----------



## ben h

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dracotonisamond* 
wow, i just got my H50 2 hours ago and ive fallen in love








i scraped off the pre applied TIM and applied my own Tuniq TX-2 and slapped on a antec tri-cool fan in pull and now i have 54C temps at 4.02GHz instead of 75C with my cooler master Hyper N520 <3

Time to see how much further this rabbit hole goes









lol nice
same here but i left stock tim i aint got anything better


----------



## Fohacidal

YouTube- New Gaming Rig
There is my humble setup. It isnt fully polished up like I usually do with a lot of the rigs I build but thats because it was made on a budget coming out of my pocket with no spare equipment or tools D: so basically all the money went into as much performance as I could squeeze out.

Also for a closed loop system I love the h50. But what Iv discovered is even cooler in that people have modified it to use a reservoir and more radiators. Genius


----------



## toast3d

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KG363*


how good are these compared to my sig cooler? Thinking about picking one up



Quote:



Originally Posted by *KG363*


thanks! +rep

I'll see if I can gather the funds



Quote:



Originally Posted by *toast3d*


Jumping back here w/ some info i found around our site!



Best Buy has the Corsair H50 on sale again for $60! All models should be H50-1s(includes AMD bracket).
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Corsair+...ustomerreviews


----------



## dracotonisamond

quick question. are these bends safe?








seem to work fine and surprisingly the 1200 is a tight fit like spandex on a fat chick.

also. i think i have a fetish for blue lights.








there like red stripes. for fans!

also. im very bad at cable management lol.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dracotonisamond* 
quick question. are these bends safe?
seem to work fine and surprisingly the 1200 is a tight fit like spandex on a fat chick.

also. i think i have a fetish for blue lights.

there like red stripes. for fans!

also. im very bad at cable management lol.

Tube bends are fine, as are blue lights









Cable management is your friend... learn it, live it, love it


----------



## Prugor

As long as the tubes are kinking, its good. If you want a smoother bend, try rotating the pump housing 90 degrees counter clockwise.


----------



## Spct

yeah, the turn of the pump to help the hoses ... prob is most of hate to see the Corsair logo at a 90 degree....


----------



## Michael Cox

Hey everyone,

I know I'm a week late (had a bunch to do) but I finished the H50 vs. ECO A.L.C. comparison. You can check it out here if you haven't already seen it.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...s-eco-l-c.html

Hope it helps somebody.


----------



## MoonTar

Got mine today and installed, and yes I need to invest in cable sleeves.


----------



## Michael Cox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MoonTar*


Got mine today and installed, and yes I need to invest in cable sleeves.



















Nah, you don't need sleeves you just need to reroute the wires through the back. Other than that looks good.


----------



## nvidiagamer

Yeah, it looks good! Like Michael Cox said, you just need to reroute the wires so they go in the back of the mobo tray.

On another note, I now have reversed my fan for the H50 so its an intake, the temps have decreased dramatically! I am now idling at: 35 32 37 31

that's amazing!


----------



## ArcticZero

Installed my H50 today. Had to mount it in front as intake, since push/pull using two 38mm San Ace's wouldn't fit as rear exhaust.

Seriously thinking of picking up a new case (RV-01, or Obsidian 800D come to mind).













































Sorry for the somewhat poor quality photos. Had to use a phone camera.


----------



## zidave

My temporary location.



















I'm pretty excited


----------



## ArcticZero

I see we have the same mobo and case-type, Zidave.


----------



## zidave

Yeah, I noticed the motherboard before I posted.


----------



## sebastianTR

hi guys
i just got bought new system
asus M4A78L-M
phenom II x2 555BE
xms2 2x2 1066mhz
HIS 5770

and a HTPC case
sharkoon rush case
its very small

i m using thermaltake x5 orb fx2 cpu cooler
i m very happy its very cool but i have huge problem noise
its very noisy

i m using this pc on my living room and open 7/24
mostly working cool&quite mode 0.9v 800mhz
but cooler still noisy

i needer much more actualy more more quite cpu cooler but case is very small i dont have empty area for noctua d14 or ocz vandetta or same this whatever

Would you recommend this product guys?


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes I would rec this product.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *sebastianTR* 
hi guys
i just got bought new system
asus M4A78L-M
phenom II x2 555BE
xms2 2x2 1066mhz
HIS 5770

and a HTPC case
sharkoon rush case
its very small

i m using thermaltake x5 orb fx2 cpu cooler
i m very happy its very cool but i have huge problem noise
its very noisy

i m using this pc on my living room and open 7/24
mostly working cool&quite mode 0.9v 800mhz
but cooler still noisy

i needer much more actualy more more quite cpu cooler but case is very small i dont have empty area for noctua d14 or ocz vandetta or same this whatever

Would you recommend this product guys?


----------



## strongy

When you guys add an extra fan "push / pull" do you also attach the second fan to the CPU Fan controller on the m/b ? (4 pin)

I would of thought this would be the ideal way to do it? But I have not been able to find a Y Splitter for this?

Appreciate any feedback.


----------



## sebastianTR

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Yes I would rec this product.










~Ceadder









so is this realy quite? because som guys talking about its pump. its always zzZZzzz
i dont know i confuse i guess


----------



## ben h

Quote:


Originally Posted by *strongy* 
When you guys add an extra fan "push / pull" do you also attach the second fan to the CPU Fan controller on the m/b ? (4 pin)

I would of thought this would be the ideal way to do it? But I have not been able to find a Y Splitter for this?

Appreciate any feedback.

i didnt hook ether of my fans up to the mb
i hooked them up as reg fans


----------



## Ceadderman

Well no electrically driven motor is 100% quiet. It's all relative to the person that owns the device, is it not? What I think is quiet you may think is equivalent to standing next to a busy International airport.









But I can say that it is indeed pretty quiet as some have stated that they thought it wasn't running and had to be almost on top of it before they heard the hum.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *sebastianTR* 
so is this realy quite? because som guys talking about its pump. its always zzZZzzz
i dont know i confuse i guess


----------



## strongy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ben h* 
i didnt hook ether of my fans up to the mb
i hooked them up as reg fans

Thanks, will give it a go


----------



## trentiles

Does anyone have any comparisons between the H50 and Coolermaster 212+?


----------



## sebastianTR

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Well no electrically driven motor is 100% quiet. It's all relative to the person that owns the device, is it not? What I think is quiet you may think is equivalent to standing next to a busy International airport.









But I can say that it is indeed pretty quiet as some have stated that they thought it wasn't running and had to be almost on top of it before they heard the hum.









~Ceadder









i think i dont have any other chosee
its must be quiter and a little bit cool and most important it has to should fit my case

cheers


----------



## Divine_Madcat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *strongy*


Thanks, will give it a go










Just to confuse ya, I have both of mine hooked to the mobo, for RPM watching. Of course, i have auto fan control turned off, so they run at 100% as well..


----------



## strongy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Divine_Madcat*


Just to confuse ya, I have both of mine hooked to the mobo, for RPM watching. Of course, i have auto fan control turned off, so they run at 100% as well..


ha ha, well it makes sense to me to have both fans being controlled by something so they operate at the same RPM.. I think I will hold off at the moment as my temps on i7 2.8 860 is idle at 30oC with one intake fan.

Thanks for the advice all.


----------



## DQ Hero

well thought i would update everyone here, i switched the h50 from exhaust to intake, and temps dropped from 74C to 67C. im using the stock corsair fan and the stock haf 922 rear fan for push/pull and will get better temps once i use better fans.


----------



## nvidiagamer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DQ Hero*


well thought i would update everyone here, i switched the h50 from exhaust to intake, and temps dropped from 74C to 67C. im using the stock corsair fan and the stock haf 922 rear fan for push/pull and will get better temps once i use better fans.


I did the same exact thing that you did with my H-50 last night. I changed the fan to intake, my temps dropped by about 6 degrees. So far the temps of the other components have not gone up either, especially the video card. I'll keep an eye on it though.

Also guys, are the temps supposed to differ that much on the 4 cores? mine are at 35,32,37,31 is this normal???? Although, when there is a load on my cpu all the temps even out on all the cores. I played Call of Duty MW 2 last night and my temps never went above 46 degrees!!!


----------



## DQ Hero

nvidiagamer, my cores do the same thing. its normal, you only have 6C difference, ive seen up to 10c before.


----------



## nvidiagamer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DQ Hero* 
nvidiagamer, my cores do the same thing. its normal, you only have 6C difference, ive seen up to 10c before.

Ah! cool, my Q9400 didn't do this. I'm new to the world of i7 lol thanks for confirming that! +1


----------



## DQ Hero

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nvidiagamer* 
Ah! cool, my Q9400 didn't do this. I'm new to the world of i7 lol thanks for confirming that! +1

I have had mine for 3 days now...but ive been reading as much as i can about them


----------



## nvidiagamer

Yeah, I've been wanting to do more research on them, especially before I start to overclock mine. I have been so busy though, I have barely been able to use it! Today I'm free after work though, so I might begin to overclock today!


----------



## Demented

All this mention of better temps with it as intake has made me decide to definitely do it that way. In order to help exhaust some of the air though, I'm gonna switch my side intake to exhaust. I can't wait for my Q9550 to get here today so I can get to work on setting this thing up!


----------



## DQ Hero

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Demented* 
All this mention of better temps with it as intake has made me decide to definitely do it that way. In order to help exhaust some of the air though, I'm gonna switch my side intake to exhaust. I can't wait for my Q9550 to get here today so I can get to work on setting this thing up!

with you 900 top fan as exhaust, you shouldnt need to move side fans to exhaust. I suggest trying the h50 as intake, and watch temps for increase, if you see it, then change side fans. but if not, enjoy!!


----------



## Demented

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DQ Hero* 
with you 900 top fan as exhaust, you shouldnt need to move side fans to exhaust. I suggest trying the h50 as intake, and watch temps for increase, if you see it, then change side fans. but if not, enjoy!!

Well, I may just do it anyway. See, I currently have these magnetic filters on my two front intakes, and side intake. I like to try to keep as much dust and stuff out of my case as possible. So, if I have a push/pull setup pulling air in, I think I'll definitely want a filter on it, and since I don't have an extra one, I figured I'd switch it.


----------



## DQ Hero

np at all, just giving my







and as long as your happy with it, thats what matters.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DQ Hero*


np at all, just giving my







and as long as your happy with it, thats what matters.


I'm curious as to how you mounted this. I also have a HAF 922 and use 2 X Ultra Kaze 2000 with 2 X 25mm shrouds. The whole thing hangs from my spare drive bays with zip ties. Makes for a nice wind tunnel which is almost directly in line with rear exhaust fan. the front intake fan is about 1/2 inch from the front drive bay grills. Do you have any pics of your set-up?


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ArcticZero*


Installed my H50 today. Had to mount it in front as intake, since push/pull using two 38mm San Ace's wouldn't fit as rear exhaust.

Seriously thinking of picking up a new case (RV-01, or Obsidian 800D come to mind).













































Sorry for the somewhat poor quality photos. Had to use a phone camera.


I love this setup! and the case! Drooool! dunno what it is but I just love that look of it and where the H50 is placed! Nice to see someone with the same fans Im getting this week aswel! 101's rule!

Wanted to ask, if I'm mounting the H50 as intake in teh drive bay, shud I switch my side panel 230mm to exhaust ? Intending on having 2x 120mm fans at top for exhaust and 1 rear 120mm exhaust with bottom 120mm intake, front 230mm intake and 2x 120mm on the rad as intake.
what ya reckon ?

Cheers


----------



## DQ Hero

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


I'm curious as to how you mounted this. I also have a HAF 922 and use 2 X Ultra Kaze 2000 with 2 X 25mm shrouds. The whole thing hangs from my spare drive bays with zip ties. Makes for a nice wind tunnel which is almost directly in line with rear exhaust fan. the front intake fan is about 1/2 inch from the front drive bay grills. Do you have any pics of your set-up?










i have it mounted as intake in the rear fan slot. i will move it to the front when i can.


----------



## Divine_Madcat

Something to keep in mind - if you are running an intake system, you want your case to have negative pressure, such that air is more easily drawn in (thus, more total CFM out than in). Conversely, if you are exhausting, a positive case pressure will work best (thus, more total CFM in than out).


----------



## navit

Just to chime my 2 cents in here, I have mine set up the way it is recommended and I find it works great, I have low idle and load temps. I have a lancool pk62 case that has 2 140 mm top fans pulling air out and 1 front 140mm in the cooling the hd's.
I used the fan my h50 came with and run it at 100% (1700 rpm) pulling air in with the top fan just above pulling it right back out.
Now I know every case is a little different and temps vary by location but for me it works great


----------



## KG363

so should i get this or should I get some coolers for my 5770's


----------



## Archer S

I just registered on this forum because i picked up my H50 3 days ago. Well i don't know what to say, either I've done something wrong during installation, or the cooler i got is defective in some way.

I have it set up as per the instructions it came with, except running it as an exhaust in the back of my antec 902 case. I am using the stock fan that it came with and the stock thermal paste. I cleaned my cpu and removed all of the old TIM prior to installation. Ive been all over the internet and seen this cooler keep peoples CPUs at 32 and 35 degrees C but mine is significantly hotter. I could not figure out why so i decided to ask here.

I have an Intel Core i5 750 overclocked to 3Ghz (stock voltage). Back with my old cooler i was idling at 43 degrees. Now with the H50 im idling at 40. This seems like a very insignificant difference to me, considering the H50 is a liquid cooler. So is there indeed something wrong? or is that actually how this cooler performs?

PS i did revert back to stock settings to see if the overclock was causing the high temperature. The temperature didn't change.


----------



## Divine_Madcat

Archer - idle temps aren't the best indication of performance; how do your load temps look?
Additionally, if the airflow isn't too good in your case, then having the H50 use that air wont help the temps out.


----------



## Archer S

Under 100% load with prime 95, I've hit 57 degrees C, but i never ran prime 95 for more than 10 min, once it gets to about 56-57 it doesn't go higher.

The airflow in my case is pretty good. I have an antec 900 two. two 120mm front fans, one 200mm top as exhaust, and one 120mm back (with the radiator on it) also as exhaust. There is also a side panel fan slot, but no fan in it. My room temperature is pretty hot though. 27 degrees.


----------



## Ceadderman

Your temps are well within spec so I don't see an issue. How long did you give the TIM before you started noticing the temps?

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Archer S* 
Under 100% load with prime 95, I've hit 57 degrees C, but i never ran prime 95 for more than 10 min, once it gets to about 56-57 it doesn't go higher.

The airflow in my case is pretty good. I have an antec 900 two. two 120mm front fans, one 200mm top as exhaust, and one 120mm back (with the radiator on it) also as exhaust. There is also a side panel fan slot, but no fan in it. My room temperature is pretty hot though. 27 degrees.


----------



## Archer S

i gave the TIM 24 hours before looking at the temps. Thanks for clarifying that everything is within spec, and everything is working. I'm aiming to overclock to 4Ghz soon. Do you think i should wait a bit longer to let the TIM burn in?


----------



## Heimsgard

I just got mine today.








I know the inside of my pc isn't very pretty xD


----------



## kpopsaranghae

is idling @ 44 C with an ambient of 24 C normal for an i7 @ 4.2 ghz w/ 1.344 Vcore? cuz that seems a bit hot compared to some other ppl ><


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KG363* 
so should i get this or should I get some coolers for my 5770's

Ahh, the eternal question...

Its going to depend on your budget and your expectations of your respective temps.

If you CPU temps are not what they could be... get the H50. If your 5770's are a raging inferno... get the GPU coolers.

Having said that, which purchase will improve your system (bang for buck)?


----------



## Ceadderman

Well since I'm not overclocking yet, I can't say. I just know that it's working to spec.









I hope to know more when I get my new MoBo/CPU combo and drop the H50 on it.

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Archer S* 
i gave the TIM 24 hours before looking at the temps. Thanks for clarifying that everything is within spec, and everything is working. I'm aiming to overclock to 4Ghz soon. Do you think i should wait a bit longer to let the TIM burn in?


----------



## iandroo888

Hey i JUST bought the h50 from bestbuy for $60 - $25 GC i had for years.. xD came out to less than $40 OTD.

had a question before installation. is the stock fan good enough or should i change it to something else? maybe use the aluminum panaflo 120x38 i have on my xiggy? or a yate loon?

also, is the paste on there good or should i switch it with some AS5 or IC7 Diamond?


----------



## KG363

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Ahh, the eternal question...

Its going to depend on your budget and your expectations of your respective temps.

If you CPU temps are not what they could be... get the H50. If your 5770's are a raging inferno... get the GPU coolers.

Having said that, which purchase will improve your system (bang for buck)?

Thanks for knocking some sense into me. I'm going for the gpu coolers.

+rep


----------



## ben h

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
Hey i JUST bought the h50 from bestbuy for $60 - $25 GC i had for years.. xD came out to less than $40 OTD.

had a question before installation. is the stock fan good enough or should i change it to something else? maybe use the aluminum panaflo 120x38 i have on my xiggy? or a yate loon?

also, is the paste on there good or should i switch it with some AS5 or IC7 Diamond?

past on it is good
just try the other fans and see wat comes out best
i took it off right away and put a push/pull on it


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
Hey i JUST bought the h50 from bestbuy for $60 - $25 GC i had for years.. xD came out to less than $40 OTD.

had a question before installation. is the stock fan good enough or should i change it to something else? maybe use the aluminum panaflo 120x38 i have on my xiggy? or a yate loon?

also, is the paste on there good or should i switch it with some AS5 or IC7 Diamond?

You will get much better result with one of your other fans. The stock H50 fan is about 50cfm

The stock paste is really good with no cure time unlike AS5 its just a little thick but yeilds great results.

hope that helps


----------



## godofdeath

keep the paste

trying using shrouds and try out different fans


----------



## iandroo888

mm thx for advice. will keep paste and try using a shroud. push pull better or just push? or just pull?

i remember reading about something that it was better to push than pull on this... true?


----------



## flipd

Thanks to that sweet BestBuy deal, I got mine today.










Was a tight fit but it worked out well.


----------



## iandroo888

are u supposed to mount plate and the ring thing then twist the pump into the ring?


----------



## Ceadderman

Exactomundo.









If you have questions go to Corsair and take a look at their YouTube vid. It's very helpful.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


are u supposed to mount plate and the ring thing then twist the pump into the ring?


----------



## Darkcyde

Checking in. Using two NF-P12's in push/pull


----------



## Archer S

sweet fans


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KG363*


Thanks for knocking some sense into me. I'm going for the gpu coolers.

+rep


Nice choice. It will help with the case ambients too









Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


mm thx for advice. will keep paste and try using a shroud. push pull better or just push? or just pull?

i remember reading about something that it was better to push than pull on this... true?


Push/pull is usually the way to go. If you cant use 2 of the same fans, make the stronger fan the push fan. Shrouds will also help with the temps and the fan noise.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


are u supposed to mount plate and the ring thing then twist the pump into the ring?


Yes. Once the ring is engaged and holding the pump head, tighten up the screws. Tighten the opposite screw a little at a time until they are all snug.

Just make sure the pump head is level and doesnt wobble. Also, dont twist tooo much, it upsets the TIM and this can lead to micro bubbles.


----------



## Darkcyde

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Archer S*


sweet fans


Thanks.


----------



## ben h

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


are u supposed to mount plate and the ring thing then twist the pump into the ring?


i did it both ways lol


----------



## voodoo71

Hey everyone. I have had my h50 for a while but I just got it installed over the weekend and I am loving it. I have a modest overclock of 3.5ghz and and idle at 38c to 39c and 50c on 100%load under prime 95.


----------



## manicmoose

Hi guys, I'm getting a Corsair H50 with my new PC on Friday and have a few questions. Here are the PC specs:

Case: Antec P183
Processor: AMD Phenom II X4 955 BE 3.2ghz
Video: Sapphire Radeon 5850 Toxic Vapor-X 1GB
Memory: 2x2GB Kingston Hyper-X DDR3 1600mhz
PSU: Corsair HX750w
Motherboard: Crosshair IV Formula

My question is whether using the H50 as a pull as its intended and then having the case fans as exhaust will be sufficient. I don't plan on overclocking for a couple months and by then I can improve this setup. Does anyone have a P183 using the H50 here? It's hard to go through 900 pages of posts









-Dave (manicmoose)


----------



## Ceadderman

How many fans do you have and are you intending to make them all exhaust?









It's okay to make the H50 an intake but I think the thing to do is wait til you get it all together to plan it out. Cause sometimes our intentions take us in a different direction than we intend to go.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *manicmoose*


Hi guys, I'm getting a Corsair H50 with my new PC on Friday and have a few questions. Here are the PC specs:

Case: Antec P183
Processor: AMD Phenom II X4 955 BE 3.2ghz
Video: Sapphire Radeon 5850 Toxic Vapor-X 1GB
Memory: 2x2GB Kingston Hyper-X DDR3 1600mhz
PSU: Corsair HX750w
Motherboard: Crosshair IV Formula

My question is whether using the H50 as a pull as its intended and then having the case fans as exhaust will be sufficient. I don't plan on overclocking for a couple months and by then I can improve this setup. Does anyone have a P183 using the H50 here? It's hard to go through 900 pages of posts









-Dave (manicmoose)


----------



## iandroo888

ok ! =]


----------



## Ceadderman

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


ok ! =]


----------



## manicmoose

I didn't factor in any additional fans so the P183 has 1 rear 120mm x 25mm TriCoolâ„¢ fan and 1 top 120mm x 25mm TriCoolâ„¢ fan. I'm curious with the H50 on intake and those two fans whether I will be okay under a stock configuration with those parts? Or if there's a better way to set them up and what recommendations you have for inexpensive additions in the near future.

Thanks,
-Dave (manicmoose)


----------



## iandroo888

hm so i took my mobo out.. the backplate... has a little orange stripped resistor thing that is in the way of one of the corners.. making it now go down all the way...

anyone have experience with installing onto a 780i sli ftw


----------



## iTravis

Just need to work on my cable management I think.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iTravis* 
Just need to work on my cable management I think.



Looks good. Gives me a good idea of how it will look on my Rampage Formula...heh


----------



## iandroo888

where u guys get extra screws for push pull? only comes with 4 screws =3 have it mounted as pull right now

getting 39-42 now.. was high 40s with xiggy


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
where u guys get extra screws for push pull? only comes with 4 screws =3 have it mounted as pull right now

getting 39-42 now.. was high 40s with xiggy

Any hardware store, you should be able to find the same size easily, or ask an employee to help ya out. I still gotta do it myself, just using the 4 screws. lol 2 on each fan, actually seems ok, for now.


----------



## ArcticZero

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd* 
I love this setup! and the case! Drooool! dunno what it is but I just love that look of it and where the H50 is placed! Nice to see someone with the same fans Im getting this week aswel! 101's rule!

Wanted to ask, if I'm mounting the H50 as intake in teh drive bay, shud I switch my side panel 230mm to exhaust ? Intending on having 2x 120mm fans at top for exhaust and 1 rear 120mm exhaust with bottom 120mm intake, front 230mm intake and 2x 120mm on the rad as intake.
what ya reckon ?

Cheers

Thanks man. Indeed these 101's kick so much ass.









Right now I have my 120mm side fan as intake as well. Rear is exhaust, and I have a powerful Delta 80mm as my blowhole exhaust. Works quite well considering how high my ambients are (probably 38c or so)


----------



## Demented

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
where u guys get extra screws for push pull? only comes with 4 screws =3 have it mounted as pull right now

getting 39-42 now.. was high 40s with xiggy

I walked around the corner to my local hardware store and bought 4 screws for $.52. Only bummer is they aren't black like the stock ones. I'll just put them on the outside where I won't see them much...heh


----------



## ArcticZero

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
where u guys get extra screws for push pull? only comes with 4 screws =3 have it mounted as pull right now

getting 39-42 now.. was high 40s with xiggy

Or you could use zipties.


----------



## 00Smurf

Had to do some rearranging with the h50, as having it as a front exhaust wasn't working to well. Now using it as an intake on the right side, has lowered temps considerably. This small case has been a real challange with temps and airflow, but i've finally roughed this one out to a reasonable extreme. I'd still like to put a vent/window on each side to look into the case along with some Neons. Ordering a replacement case to to my final build in, now that i've figured out where to make all my cuts and can clean up all the jagged edges.

CPU is @ 4.2 ghz 65-68C under-load and gpu 1 is 85C under load while gpu2 is at 65C. My next mod is to cut a hole in the top of the case to allow cool air from up top via a 92mm fan.


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arcticzero* 
or you could use zipties.









+1


----------



## iandroo888

i forgot to check thread size before i came out but im guessing #6-32 at about 1 1/4" for 25mm 1 1/2" for 38mm..


----------



## Ceadderman

Well as cheap as bolt-screws are I would just carry one to a Napa or a Home Depot and see if they can match it threadwise(they can) and then get a few different lengths to lessen the possibility for a return trip to get another length.

But that's me, I always find a use for bolt-screws.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


i forgot to check thread size before i came out but im guessing #6-32 at about 1 1/4" for 25mm 1 1/2" for 38mm..


----------



## sebastianTR

@00Smurf what brand this case men?

i thought my case is cool its small and look nice ( sharkoon rush )
but this is awesome man
i like it

by the way i order a H50 but it will come 10-15days later
i dont know i cant find in turkey


----------



## ThumperSD

How much can I expect my temps to drop by swapping for 2 gentle typhoon ap-15 and changing the TIM to a high quality one like OCZ freeze.

I am currently using one stock H50 fan and a cheap CoolerMaster fan. Also using CoolerMaster TIM.

I am getting 60c at full load. Can I expect it to drop 5-8c (@ full load) just by upgrading the fans & TIM?


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sebastianTR*


@00Smurf what brand this case men?

i thought my case is cool its small and look nice ( sharkoon rush )
but this is awesome man
i like it

by the way i order a H50 but it will come 10-15days later
i dont know i cant find in turkey


It is an aerocool qx-2000


----------



## iandroo888

I'm pretty sure it's 6-32 but wished I could get black ones. Hm 2 1/2" for 38mm n 25mm shroud


----------



## thisispatrick

Ok so I went ahead and got a little suicidal today. I have not overclocked my cpu much but I just wanted to see the temps on this baby. Today in NY its topping out at 90~F. I'm dieing here.

So at 3.6g at 1.35v ran some P95 and topped out at ~60C+/- a few. Idle temps are at 40C
Summer's coming to I stepped down my cpu speeds. :| Actually I can just move my rig downstairs which feels like a fridge. I'll let you guys know if I ever do.

Btw mine is set up exactly like this.








Starting to regret it because of the limited air flow.


----------



## iandroo888

i cant find screws in home depot longer than 2". where u ppl who uses shrouds with fan get ur screws?


----------



## Syrillian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


i cant find screws in home depot longer than 2". where u ppl who uses shrouds with fan get ur screws?


McMaster-Carr, or Fastenal.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


i cant find screws in home depot longer than 2". where u ppl who uses shrouds with fan get ur screws?


3" toggle bolts. Just use the screws that come with those and cut them to whatever length you require.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

just to let you guys know if you want another great h50, its $60 right now at bestbuy.


----------



## dracotonisamond

Bah! what the crap? what would cause an H50 to go from 55C max to 71C max overnight? the ambients are more or less the same, but now its approaching the temps i saw with my hyper N520. nothings changed 'cept like 5f difference on the ambient

i might go and cut up a few of my hard disk retention bolts to use for a push pull system. ill never use the center tray anyhow with 5870's/5970's


----------



## iandroo888

used some 1 1/2" and mounted some high speed yate loons on there. push pull config. not much change on idle. will c what happens on load. i dont think i have enuf room for shrouds. lol =3


----------



## demonsblood

has anyone modded the h50 with a dual rad and a res? like maybe a swiftech dual rad or a feser one dual rad?


----------



## KurtBR

I wanna enter to the club


----------



## iandroo888

stock installation









Two High-Speed Yate-Loon Push/Pull Config









cable managed.

what temps are u guys getting? wonder if i mounted it good or not


----------



## ez12a

picked up an h50 today. I get 50-54 (i know, quite a variation) on load with linpack. Sound normal? Does the paste need to cure?

push pull with 2 R4 fans. Not the greatest CFM and static pressure, but my move to the h50 was for silence. I have 2 deltas i could mount but that would defeat the purposes i bought the H50 for.

edit: also it makes some noise when i power it on..which leads me to believe there's air in the system. So mounting the rad with the tubes on the bottom would yield better performance right?


----------



## zefs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KurtBR* 
I wanna enter to the club

















Wow, how did you manage to lap it that good? Mine doesn't look mirrored-like, and the sandpaper left scratches on my H50. What paper did you use?

Also, a suggestion to those who were thinking of removing the stock TIM for AS5, don't do it I got a couple of degrees increase by using the AS5.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

just installed this cooler on a phenom ii 965 c3 with 1850rpm gentle typhoons in push pull, and im idling at a chilly 28c









i replaced the stock shin etsu with a pea sized drop of ocz freeze

im happy so far, and cant wait to start overclocking


----------



## saiyanzzrage

i installed it according to the corsair instructions, with the tubes on the top, should i have done it on the bottom?? or does it not matter?


----------



## Divine_Madcat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage* 
i installed it according to the corsair instructions, with the tubes on the top, should i have done it on the bottom?? or does it not matter?

You should be good either way. Assuming they built it correctly, there should be no air in the system, which is the only reason that the tube location would matter. You certainly can try flipping it, but i doubt you will see a change at all.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Divine_Madcat* 
You should be good either way. Assuming they built it correctly, there should be no air in the system, which is the only reason that the tube location would matter. You certainly can try flipping it, but i doubt you will see a change at all.

cool, thanks!

i actually just went over to the corsair forums and someone from corsair commented in a thread that they have confirmation from the engineers at asetek that it does not matter, so theres the answer


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Quote:

I wanna enter to the club
did you lap the h50? if so, did you lap it with the pump and everything attached to the block? i would suggest taking the copper block off, because thats alot of weight from the pump when lapping. you get a better finish and its easier having the block off. but then again, yours isnt modded, so you really couldnt









im still wanting to get a second UK 3000 and some IC karet 24 and see what temps i get.


----------



## Gnomepatrol

Add me woooo









Edit: woot added myself lol


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KurtBR*












that is just beautiful... _"I wish i had a mirror to look at my self everyday.. just like that"_ LOL

but I'd remove that thermal paste from the picture... its in the way of the mirror =P


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer* 
did you lap the h50? if so, did you lap it with the pump and everything attached to the block? i would suggest taking the copper block off, because thats alot of weight from the pump when lapping. you get a better finish and its easier having the block off. but then again, *yours isnt modded, so you really couldnt* .....


uhhhh, just to clarify = "YES" you can Lapp the Head/block, even if it isn't modd'd ! !







For i have done so
(picture is of result's







); Best way i found was to hold the Head/block and have the Radiator wrapped with
a towel and then have it attatched/something to wrap around's your arm of the bicep area; so basically,
you have it all on the one arm, then commence to Lapp....









...{ this finish is even Better than What was there to begin with, even BETTER (_*lower*_) Temp's ! ! }...

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## zefs

Which sandpaper you guys use to lap it like that? My paper all it did was to leave some marks, no mirror as it should(the paper I used says P150, don't know if that matters).


----------



## Antihista

Just another HAF painted and a H50 with 2 R4's in push pull


----------



## KurtBR

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zefs*


Wow, how did you manage to lap it that good? Mine doesn't look mirrored-like, and the sandpaper left scratches on my H50. What paper did you use?


About the paper... I used 3 types:

400 (5 minutes)
600 (10 minutes)
1200 (15 minutes)

This was my first, and old video







YouTube- Cooler Lapping by: http://overclockmt.blogspot.com/










Quote:



Originally Posted by *zefs*


Also, a suggestion to those who were thinking of removing the stock TIM for AS5, don't do it I got a couple of degrees increase by using the AS5.


hmm.. I didnÂ´t read anything about that. Thank









Quote:



Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*


did you lap the h50? if so, did you lap it with the pump and everything attached to the block?


I removed the pump, but, you can lap with it, I donÂ´t see any problem.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


that is just beautiful... _"I wish i had a mirror to look at my self everyday.. just like that"_ LOL

but I'd remove that thermal paste from the picture... its in the way of the mirror =P


lol









The temps dropped about 3Âº CF FULL and about 6Âº CF in Idle.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zefs*


Which sandpaper you guys use to lap it like that? My paper all it did was to leave some marks, no mirror as it should(the paper I used says P150, don't know if that matters).



...you start off with the coarse stuff, ( aka...600 to 800 grit),.....then move on to Finer grit, (aka...1000 to 1600); 
......to get to the "mirror" finish look, you'd need to get to the Very Fine grit, (aka...1800 to the 2200 grit scale)....
...just remember,(with the coarse grit), = NOT too much pressure or you will have taken too much of the copper away...

...Hope this shed's some light for an answer to your question.....









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


...you start off with the coarse stuff, ( aka...600 to 800 grit),.....then move on to Finer grit, (aka...1000 to 1600); 
......to get to the "mirror" finish look, you'd need to get to the Very Fine grit, (aka...1800 to the 2200 grit scale)....
...just remember,(with the coarse grit), = NOT too much pressure or you will have taken too much of the copper away...

...Hope this shed's some light for an answer to your question.....









mr-Charles .









.


yah when i lap, i usually use like < 200 grit to even out the base [sometimes its convex or concave] then move to like 400 to smooth that out.. then 800.. then 1000.. 1500.. 2000.. shine with brasso then *drool* xD there are ones even more fine than 2000.. its like 10 microns or something? iunoe. but 2000 grit is fine with me. good enough.

use of some water during lapping may help reduce some of the bumpyness too xD


----------



## 00Smurf

I currently have 2 red led Coolermaster r4's rated at 90cfm/19dbs. I would like a comparable or better fan that has either red or Blue LED's. What are my options?


----------



## 00Smurf

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835129244

or

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185060

or

stick with the r4's.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

I know you can lapp the h50 without modding it, but the way I did by taking the copper block off from the pump would cause you to drain the h50 and you wouldnt be able to get coolant back in without air in the loop.
i did it the same way you did the first time, but after a few weeks of use i didnt see a temp drop. So this time i did it differently and took the block off from the pump. This allowed for less pressure to be pushing against the sandpaper. I didnt take pics but when I redo my loop (hopefully) ill take pics.
i start with 800 then 1000, 1200, 1500 then 2000. making sure i take my time with each grit.


----------



## ez12a

just wanted to post a pic of my setup.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

I think i might pick one up bestbuy has them for 59.99 right now and my mega aint performing well can get one for under 65 and no shipping or waiting.


----------



## Ceadderman

I'm not lapping yet, but if things hold true to form from what I've seen you'll want 1400/1600/1800/2000 grit paper.

Do it a number of times on each one looking for hills and valleys and using a bit of water on each piece.

There really hasn't been a definitive way to do this shown. But if you look on YouTube for "lapping" you'll find a number of CPU laps. One of them is REALLY informative and explains in detail how you want the weight of the CPU to do the work. I imaging this is much the same. Soon as I get my setup, I know what I'm gonna be doing.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *zefs*


Which sandpaper you guys use to lap it like that? My paper all it did was to leave some marks, no mirror as it should(the paper I used says P150, don't know if that matters).


----------



## KurtBR

3 Things that u must to have before to "lap":

1) Time;

2) Patience;

3) Strength in arms.


----------



## sebastianTR

hello guys i will buy this cooler but i have a question
my case is very small i have to put outside but this time i cant put in again i mean cpu blok
i have to pull out pipe

are this can easily pull out/in ?


----------



## ez12a

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf*


I think i might pick one up bestbuy has them for 59.99 right now and my mega aint performing well can get one for under 65 and no shipping or waiting.


yup that's where i got my H50. I wouldnt have bought the H50 at MSRP.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

One ? guys sence i lapped my cpu is their any pressure mods or anything to make sure the h50 sits tight.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KurtBR*


3 Things that u must to have before to "lap":

1) Time;

2) Patience;

3) Strength in arms.












......YEPPER's . . .







. . . . Exactly ! ! . . . . i'd half to agree with 100%....









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zefs*


Which sandpaper you guys use to lap it like that? My paper all it did was to leave some marks, no mirror as it should*(the paper I used says P150, don't know if that matters)*.


. . .*Man-O-man*, zefs; I hope ya didn't "scrape" tooo much copper off that Head/Block of the H50 ! ! !








That (P150) is SOME REALLY COARSE grit scale/rating's there......







...... I would really hate to SEE 
what scratches it left you with......







. . .







. . .







. . . .









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Bi2on

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sebastianTR* 
hello guys i will buy this cooler but i have a question
my case is very small i have to put outside but this time i cant put in again i mean cpu blok
i have to pull out pipe

are this can easily pull out/in ?

Hi Sebastian,

it is fairly easy once you really know how to deal with water cooling. Otherwise, don't mess with it. It's a closed system, which is meant to stay this way.
If you pull the tubes apart from pump/radiator there's almost no way to put it back together without any air in the loop.

So really, you want to open the loop only if you gonna mod it (put a reservoir into the loop or something like that), otherwise I wouldn't recommend it.

Cheers!

O/T: Does that apple in your sig really stands for sth?







It's not like You are putting that H50 into a Mac are You?


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf* 
One ? guys sence i lapped my cpu is their any pressure mods or anything to make sure the h50 sits tight.

...IMHO > > > do the "BLADE" test for the CPU & the H50 Block surface.
....that being: to use a Blade of some sort(Stanley or whatever cutting blade) and a good flashlight(white light is better); and check the surface of both for of Gap's & Pit's or even for UNeven surface's of......
. . . just my 2







worth to mention of a "CHEAP" way to checkout BEFORE you apply TIM and hookup/connect . . . .









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Turgin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sebastianTR* 
hello guys i will buy this cooler but i have a question
my case is very small i have to put outside but this time i cant put in again i mean cpu blok
i have to pull out pipe

are this can easily pull out/in ?

If I understand you correctly you are asking if you can easily remove the tubes from the pump unit. The answer is no they are not meant to be removable. Many people have done so for various mods so it is possible of course, but you'll have to deal with refilling the coolant and bleeding out the air which is difficult if not impossible unless you add a res or t-line.


----------



## zefs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
. . .*Man-O-man*, zefs; I hope ya didn't "scrape" tooo much copper off that Head/Block of the H50 ! ! !








That (P150) is SOME REALLY COARSE grit scale/rating's there......







...... I would really hate to SEE
what scratches it left you with......







. . .







. . .







. . . .









mr-Charles .









.

It was the only one I had around I thought it would do ok, should I purchase a better one as suggested or leave it as is?


----------



## BlackHoleSon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bi2on* 
Hi Sebastian,

I started tripping for a second because I saw that, and that's my real life name :O


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
...IMHO > > > do the "BLADE" test for the CPU & the H50 Block surface.
....that being: to use a Blade of some sort(Stanley or whatever cutting blade) and a good flashlight(white light is better); and check the surface of both for of Gap's & Pit's or even for UNeven surface's of......
. . . just my 2







worth to mention of a "CHEAP" way to checkout BEFORE you apply TIM and hookup/connect . . . .









mr-Charles .









.

Na i know the flat test thing is i lapped alot of the ihs away from my cpu to make it flat is why i was asking if their was a way to mod the h50 to make it fit tight or if it mounting system would be good enugh.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *zefs* 
It was the only one I had around I thought it would do ok, should I purchase a better one as suggested or leave it as is?









....600 to 800 grit would be sufficient enough . . . . . "Hide" that 150 stuff, tho....








. . . that's a bit way 2 "drastic" of a grit for copper.....









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## zefs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
....600 to 800 grit would be sufficient enough . . . . . "Hide" that 150 stuff, tho....








. . . that's a bit way 2 "drastic" of a grit for copper.....










mr-Charles .









.

Thanks, will post results tomorrow I guess!


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *zefs* 
Thanks, will post results tomorrow I guess!

...just curious; > > > Would you have any pic's of this Head/Block of your H50
with the look's/result's from using the P150 grit "stuff" ? ? ?









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Bi2on

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
...just curious; > > > Would you have any pic's of this Head/Block of your H50
with the look's/result's from using the P150 grit "stuff" ? ? ?









mr-Charles .









.

Why ... why would you want to see that?
You need something to scare your mother-in-law away or you just sleep to good at night ???


----------



## Ceadderman

A square would be better to check each surface.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
...IMHO > > > do the "BLADE" test for the CPU & the H50 Block surface.
....that being: to use a Blade of some sort(Stanley or whatever cutting blade) and a good flashlight(white light is better); and check the surface of both for of Gap's & Pit's or even for UNeven surface's of......
. . . just my 2







worth to mention of a "CHEAP" way to checkout BEFORE you apply TIM and hookup/connect . . . .









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
*A square* would be better to check each surface.









~Ceadder










.......maybe so, but seem's to be a bit _*BIG*_ for these little block's/copper surface of, or even the CPU surface of, to checkout with a flash/beam of light . . . .









...BUT, ...Hey, Everyone has their own way of doing thing's, rite







. . .
...whatever work's for them . .







. . .

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


.......maybe so, but seem's to be a bit_* BIG *_for these little block's/copper surface of, or even the CPU surface of, to checkout with a flash/beam of light . . . .









...BUT, ...Hey, Everyone has their own way of doing thing's, rite







. . .
...whatever work's for them . .







. . .

mr-Charles .









.


They make small squares for small jobs....


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


They make small squares for small jobs....












Yeah, but, i like my "tool's for this trade" . . .







...







...







...







. . .

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## perry081064

got it today so had to show ya 9 sorry bout the img quality


----------



## FIREitUP

any suggestions on how I should mount this in an antec p182 case?


----------



## ben h

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FIREitUP* 
any suggestions on how I should mount this in an antec p182 case?

put it as an exaust like every one els take ur back fan off and put it there


----------



## Ceadderman

A six inch pocket square is too big?










I highly doubt that.







lol

Just don't be ham handed with it and it will tell you all you need to know.









Yours works too. But if you have a pocket square handy why go through all that?









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
.......maybe so, but seem's to be a bit _*BIG*_ for these little block's/copper surface of, or even the CPU surface of, to checkout with a flash/beam of light . . . .









...BUT, ...Hey, Everyone has their own way of doing thing's, rite







. . .
...whatever work's for them . .







. . .

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## ben h

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


A six inch pocket square is too big?

I highly doubt that.







lol

Just don't be ham handed with it and it will tell you all you need to know.









Yours works too. But if you have a pocket square handy why go through all that?









~Ceadder










id proly pull out the 2ft square lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Or I could go over to me Mums house an comshaw her drafting T square.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *ben h*


id proly pull out the 2ft square lol


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


A six inch pocket square is too big?










I highly doubt that.







lol

Just don't be ham handed with it and it will tell you all you need to know.









Yours works too. But if you have a pocket square handy why go through all that?










~Ceadder


















What what?

There is no compairing a mini carpenters square to a razorblade when it comes to a straightedge.

Making a razorblade is a precession process









These gaps should be to small for a square correct?


----------



## Ceadderman

What?









These gaps are perfectly reachable by a pocket square unless you're MoBo is being used by Tom Thumb and Thumblina. We are talking the CPU and the H50 cooling surface here. We're not talking an inaccessible NB or SB.









So I'm lost as to what you're trying to say, since both can be measured prior to mounting.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*









What what?

There is no compairing a mini carpenters square to a razorblade when it comes to a straightedge.

Making a razorblade is a precession process









These gaps should be to small for a square correct?


----------



## Bodycount

Tom thumb and thumbilna

I thought we were talking about lapping the H50 and checking for flatness
and the most efficient tool to check
If so i stand by my comment









JMHO but logical

But to put it into perspective..
Look at a fresh razorblade under magnification and then look at the finest carpenters square avail. under the same magnification.

Divets and tiny air pockets will be harder to find


----------



## Sinthus420

Plz add me to the list.


----------



## zidave

Nice setup dude


----------



## mr-Charles

.......OOOK, . . . .OK; i guess you all _*DIDN't*_ read what i last stated in my posting's = *" ..BUT, ...Hey, Everyone has 
their own way of doing thing's, rite







. . . . . whatever work's for them . .







. . ."*

just to add = cost efficiency for my pocket/wallet.....and i don't mean for the Blade or FlashLight > > > it's the GAS for 
which i would half to drive my V-8 Pickup to the nearest store which would carry the small square.
.......END of Reply's on this from here .......

....didn't mean to start-up & get off topic for here, sorry . . . . . . as stated: jst my Opinion of Help / 2







worth . . .

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## sebastianTR

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bi2on* 
Hi Sebastian,

it is fairly easy once you really know how to deal with water cooling. Otherwise, don't mess with it. It's a closed system, which is meant to stay this way.
If you pull the tubes apart from pump/radiator there's almost no way to put it back together without any air in the loop.

So really, you want to open the loop only if you gonna mod it (put a reservoir into the loop or something like that), otherwise I wouldn't recommend it.

Cheers!

O/T: Does that apple in your sig really stands for sth?







It's not like You are putting that H50 into a Mac are You?
















Thanks for reply and Turgin

i never think about this. if i open it i never closed without air, your'e right i need a reservoir sh.t







I'm screwed









i should buy a reservoir or i need a huge hole on my case









b.w i dont have a mac, i m just using mac software on my laptop inspiron 1520, its working perfectly the apple logo came here

cheers


----------



## Michael Cox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sinthus420* 
Plz add me to the list.










Hey Sin, just curious, are you pulling ambient air in on purpose? If so did you have it setup as exhaust first and then get better temps this way? I am thinking I might run a quick test to see if my temps change at all.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

So i should get my h50 tommor im gonna wiretie a fan for push and use one for pull in my antec 900 any tips i should try to get the best temps right off.


----------



## Sinthus420

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Michael Cox* 
Hey Sin, just curious, are you pulling ambient air in on purpose? If so did you have it setup as exhaust first and then get better temps this way? I am thinking I might run a quick test to see if my temps change at all.

I'm running it as Intake right now, mainly becuase my room is really warm at the moment and I figured my case would be even warmer.I did play around with it and I found i got a lower temps under load as an intake. (But not by much) I will be playing around with it again once i pick up an A/C Unit for my room.


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay FINALLY! got my Refund and my Rebates. Same day ironically enough.







.

So I took my $50 rebate and made my order for my fans and Shin-Etsu TIM.


















Tomorrow I put my check in the bank and then on Tuesday I make my system purchases.























Oh and not to be semantical or anything. Razor blade checking is fine. So is using a pocket square. It's not going to make a damn bit of difference microscopically cause you ain't using a microscope and any microscopic gaps will be filled in with TIM. I find it laughable that anyone thinks a razor blade is better than a square(and vice versa) in this regard. You just need a STRAIGHT EDGE to lay on the surface and a flashlight to backlight it. I just happen to have a square so THAT's what I use.

Okay? Nobody is any more right than anyone else on this issue. It's all relative.









~Ceadder


----------



## ez12a

from my experience, running it as an intake from the rear drops degrees 2-3C. I was loading at 55C with linpack vs 50-52C with it setup as an intake. Corsair recommends setting it up as an intake too.

a ghetto fab shroud:









i'll look for longer screws later. Mounting the fan right against the grille creates a whistling noise. I have to put a shroud/spacer to eliminate the whistle and reduce turbulence.


----------



## zefs

Here's my thinking about the placement of the rad:

Intake > Exhaust
If you put it on the rear as intake it may be required to change to case airflow for better results. You can put it on the drive bay though.
Like that, hot air coming from other components like the motherboard never reach the radiator. If you put it as an exhaust on the rear, hot air from these components pass through the radiator.

@M.r Charles

You really don't wanna see these scratches


----------



## KG363

I just got enough money so I can buy both this and 5770 cooler so I'm gonna go to bestbuy today!


----------



## dracotonisamond

i have mine in exhaust because my 56C temperatures can stay out of my case thank you very much. but i couldn't be happier with this cooler.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well I just got enough money to buy a badass system and have a grand left over for expenses.









So
One Lightscribe capable DVD+R
One more TB drive to short stroke for RAID 1
Crosshair MoBo
ROG Matrix
HX 1000
G9x
AS Remover & Purifier kit
xBox 360 Wireless controller for Windows
AMD Series Dominators
MS LifeCam
Belkin WaveRest(for those LONG gaming sessions)








LCD monitor Cleaning system
Win7 Ultimate 64 bit OEM
955 BE/ H50 combo

Are all in my cart ready to go, so when I get back from the Bank I'm making my order. Wednesday at the latest.

My Red LED Yate Loons and Shin-Etsu paste have been shipped from performance-pcs.com already so I'ma be doin lotsa PWN'N in the very near future.









Oh yeah and today I'll be picking up emery cloth in 200 grit increments from 1200 to 2000 to lap the CPU and H50.























~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *KG363* 
I just got enough money so I can buy both this and 5770 cooler so I'm gonna go to bestbuy today!


----------



## KG363

Just got back.

Because my case doesn't have a mobo cutout I will have to wait until monday to get this in. I only work on my computer when I am alone so that is the soonest I can get it done.

Should I put my extra cm r4 can as a push and the stock as pull or would it be best to have 2 r4's and replace the intake r4 I was using with the stock corsair fan?

Also, what are the specs for the stock fan


----------



## Ceadderman

What is the CFM of the CM r4?

My Yates' are 88 cfm(high flows) so I would use a Yate Loon for push and the corsair for pull, if I were to keep the Corsair in place. Cause no way it's 88 CFM rated.









I would think that your CM fan has at or above the Corsair CFM rating though. So I would put the CM fan in push and Corsair in pull. Also if you have a spare fan that is pretty much toast I would gut it and use it as a shroud in between your pusher and the Rad.

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *KG363* 
Just got back.

Because my case doesn't have a mobo cutout I will have to wait until monday to get this in. I only work on my computer when I am alone so that is the soonest I can get it done.

Should I put my extra cm r4 can as a push and the stock as pull or would it be best to have 2 r4's and replace the intake r4 I was using with the stock corsair fan?

Also, what are the specs for the stock fan


----------



## KG363

Thanks. +rep

I found another R4 in my closet so I'm going to do Push/Pull with those and use the corsair as a case fan


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KG363* 
. . .Also, what are the specs for the stock fan?

Corsair Stock Fan Spec's =

RPM: 1700 | CFM: 50 | Noise Level: 29.75(db)

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Afternoon all! Will be posting the pics of my new intake setup shortly, gotta ramp up my overclock again as my motherboard wasnt allowing me to start up with my usual 3.66 due to there being a "new cpu" installed, fooking thing! same cpu safety mesure i guess from ASUS.

Was wondering how long it takes for Shin-etsu G751 to burn in ?

Cheers!


----------



## KG363

I don't believe it has a burn in time


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zefs*


. . . @M.r Charles

You really don't wanna see these scratches










. . LOL . . .







.....







. . . ooOK, i'll take your work for it. Hopefully it IS Still salvageable to touch up 
for the better. Keep us post'd & let us know how thing's go, as well as if ya need of any other
help/suggestion's/comment's of . . . . . .

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Ceadderman

Actually burn in time is less than a day so it qualifies for 0 cure time.









Check my sig for the 80 TIM comparison. I had to dig back to page 87 to get it for anyone to look at if they wish to. I suggest that people take a look.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *KG363* 
I don't believe it has a burn in time


----------



## thisispatrick

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Actually burn in time is less than a day so it qualifies for 0 cure time.









Check my sig for the 80 TIM comparison. I had to dig back to page 87 to get it for anyone to look at if they wish to. I suggest that people take a look.









~Ceadder









Going to have to agree with Ceadder on this one. At first installation it was ranging 35+ but not after a day or two its sitting at 30. Definitely a short burn in time maybe that's its considered 0 burn in time I guess.


----------



## Michael Cox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KG363* 

Also, what are the specs for the stock fan


Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
Corsair Stock Fan Spec's =

RPM: 1700 | CFM: 50 | Noise Level: 29.75(db)

mr-Charles .









.

It's actually a little better than that

H50 in the on position running at 79.96 CFM and drawing 2 Watts










This is with the fan off just ambient noise.










This is fan on.


----------



## MadToolz

hey can you add me too the club too


----------



## sebastianTR

everybody join the club but i cant find in Turkey


----------



## ben h

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sebastianTR*


everybody join the club but i cant find in Turkey


awww
find out if newegg would ship there o.0


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Michael Cox*


It's actually a little better than that

H50 in the on position running at 79.96 CFM and drawing 2 Watts










This is with the fan off just ambient noise.










This is fan on.











Depending on review to review, CFM readings are take from 1ft to 1m away.

Compared to other 80CFM fans, the H50's fan moves hardly anything.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Depending on review to review, CFM readings are take from 1ft to 1m away.

Compared to other 80CFM fans, the H50's fan moves hardly anything.


Not to mention that Corsair themselves only rate it at 50CFM if it was capable of 80CFM they definitely wouldn't want to rate it so low. Look at other fans that only go 1700rpm there are almost all around 50CFM.


----------



## bfeng91

Just a quick question relating to push/pull setups... If you dont connect a fan to the CPU_FAN header, won't it give you annoying errors? And if they fans are 3 pin, they can't be regulated based on temperature if the header is 4 pin right?

So, would it be advisable to attach one fan to the CPU_FAN and one to the power supply so that they're always running at 100%, while the CPU header is occupied?


----------



## ben h

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bfeng91* 
Just a quick question relating to push/pull setups... If you dont connect a fan to the CPU_FAN header, won't it give you annoying errors? And if they fans are 3 pin, they can't be regulated based on temperature if the header is 4 pin right?

So, would it be advisable to attach one fan to the CPU_FAN and one to the power supply so that they're always running at 100%, while the CPU header is occupied?

just plug the pump into the fan header
and the other 2 fans into ur psu


----------



## Michael Cox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Depending on review to review, CFM readings are take from 1ft to 1m away.

Compared to other 80CFM fans, the H50's fan moves hardly anything.


Hey Will,

I agree but at the same time since the fan is right up on the rad my opinion is you should use the closer result.

Just my $0.02 worth though.


----------



## scottath

went back to the stock corsair fan for a bit - looking at "proper" WCing now though....hmm


----------



## Nightz2k

Ok, I was told mounting the rad on top was bad for the pump, yet I see majority mounting them that way ?









*EDIT*: From this post ...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
You'll want to flip that rad so that the fittings are at the bottom. Right there the Rad can build up air pockets and block flow. You won't notice a difference but your pump will.









~Ceadder


----------



## scottath

its a fuly sealed system - thus i wouldnt think that there is much air in it at all.

in a "normal" WCing loop having the res at the top to get rid of air is needed - but in a sealed loop i dont think its that important.


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottath*


its a fuly sealed system - thus i wouldnt think that there is much air in it at all.

in a "normal" WCing loop having the res at the top to get rid of air is needed - but in a sealed loop i dont think its that important.


I see. I'm a total newb to anything that has to do with watercooling, so I'm probably being naive on any advice I get. I just wanna make sure things are right and going smooth in the long run.


----------



## scottath

Your post defiantly has merit - but im not sure that it would apply to a sealed unit.
by definition - i would tihnk that a sealed unit contains next to no air.......thus orientation shouldnt matter


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ben h*


just plug the pump into the fan header 
and the other 2 fans into ur psu


Do not plug the pump into the 4-pin CPU fan header just make sure to plug it into either a case fan header that you know is always at 100% or one you can manually set to 100%. The best thing for the fan(s) is to plug it into the CPU fan header and if you have the push/pull setup that most of us do you can buy a Y adapter so you can plug both into the same CPU fan header or you can splice the extra fan into the wires of the other fan.


----------



## scottath

^^^
Dont however run 2 high powered fans (or even 1) off a mobo socket though.


----------



## Laten

just wanted to ask when doing push/pull method with H50, is the fan supposed to be setup so that its blowing hot air out of the case?

Or is it meant to be setup so cold air is being drawn into the case from the back - which is what corsair advise (Which i don't quite get... why be backwards :S).

Just got my h50 today and got curious after reading it on manual.


----------



## scottath

corsair say to have it pulling air into the case - but for most peoples cases - they are setup so that the rear = exhaust.

id ignore the manual and have them exhausting - you might get 3c more cpu temps - but its better overall for the system in generals temps.


----------



## voodoo71

Hey guys. I just got my system up and running a few days ago and was wondering if you guys thought my temps were OK. I had to install my H50 in the front drive bays as intake with it exhausting out the top, back, and bottom. Here are a few pics.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *voodoo71*


Hey guys. I just got my system up and running a few days ago and was wondering if you guys thought my temps were OK. I had to install my H50 in the front drive bays as intake with it exhausting out the top, back, and bottom. Here are a few pics.


Crank up that overclock and let us see the temps


----------



## scottath

Oh - thought id mention.

my H50 with the Scythe Ultra Kaze 2000rpm in push with IC7 thermal paste.
my i7 860 @ 4ghz Linx Stable with 1.35v = 68c LinX maximum load.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottath*


Oh - thought id mention.

my H50 with the Scythe Ultra Kaze 2000rpm in push with IC7 thermal paste.
my i7 860 @ 4ghz Linx Stable with 1.35v = 68c LinX maximum load.


How is that possible? Are you doing max memory in LinX?

Show me a screen of this! I need to see


----------



## navit

For the sake of my own research I started with stock fan as a intake and temps were pretty good, 29-31c ible and 44-46 load.
Then I took and went with a push-pull, and idle temps went up, mb temp went down. Idle temps seem to be about 34c.
Load temps on the other have dropped in several areas. Nb now doesnt go over 44, went as high as 50-51c stressed, and cpu load has gone down as well to around 42c.
So there is merit to not dumping the heat back in to the case as well as push-pulling it out, although both worked just fine for me









Just my 2 cents


----------



## scottath

i dont have a pic of it with coretemp open though
and ive just changed back to my stock corsair fan :/

Was:
Scythe Slipstream (unplugged - just to screw through) > case > RAD > 120*25mm Shroud > Scythe Ultra Kaze 2000rpm

ambient is <20c tohugh
im in Sydney Australia - so its almost winter.
todays top temp = 17c etc.....
Was idling @ 22-23c though


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Well i got this all hooked up with a push pull not real happy with temps so far getting it mounted right seems to be a big problem and im not sure its staying tight enugh. Linx is getting up to 70c with 4000mhz and 1.34 vcore on my q9550.


----------



## iandroo888

current setup. 120x38mm panaflo intake. 120x25mm yate loon exhaust


----------



## Michael Cox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 









current setup. 120x38mm panaflo intake. 120x25mm yate loon exhaust

Hello Ian,

What temps are you getting with that setup? Please also include ambient.


----------



## ben h

woot my temps droped today another 3C


----------



## Michael Cox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf* 
Well i got this all hooked up with a push pull not real happy with temps so far getting it mounted right seems to be a big problem and im not sure its staying tight enugh. Linx is getting up to 70c with 4000mhz and 1.34 vcore on my q9550.

Bale is that 70C on #1 core or is that the avg? My 9550 has a f'd up core 1 that reads about 10C higher than the other 3. IF that is not the issue than I would say the mount is probably off a bit but then again you are oc'd to 4GHz.


----------



## iandroo888

at 427.75 x 9 for 3.85GHz at 1.2375v. getting 53-56 degrees Load.

ambient according to this super old meat temp tester, its 75 F so like 24 C [fan and a/c on lol...]

seems kind of high. might reseat the block and use some AS5 or IC7 Diamond

hope this h50 will help me get thru desert hot temps xD


----------



## Sinthus420

I'm really new to this whole overclocking world, I recently overclocked my Phenom II x4 940 BE to 3.6 ghz. It's being cooled by h50. I only touched the Multiplier and the Bus speed. I ran the EVEREST stability test just fine. I did have it up to 3.8 but it crashed within minutes. I have included some screen shots of my temps and the test. My question is are the numbers i'm getting my OC to decent and could I go higher safely by adjusting anything else. Any help would be great thanks.


----------



## Jayyde

Greetings all. I'm new to this site but I've been building computers for a few years now. I recently picked up an H50 and I couldn't be happier with it. Idle temps dropped ~10c over stock HSF, although I'm running at near stock speeds. I did a short stress test of ~30min at 100% load and temps went to around 65c. I'll run it longer at a later date but so far so good.

The only things that caught my attention was when I was putting my side panel back on. I accidently hit one of the tubes and it made a noise similar to moving water. I know this sound is common when it starts up but is it common if I hit one of the tubes by accident? If it's a sealed unit, shouldn't there no air in there for this happen?

Also, is it ok to ziptie the hoses so they stay away from the side panel and the fan that is on it?









Cheers! -Jd

Here's a pic to along with it (cell phone):

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/666...0529024138.jpg

Ignore the terrible cable management







I would add a second fan to the radiator for a pull/push but the voltage heat sink is quite large and overlaps where the fan would be.


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sinthus420*


I'm really new to this whole overclocking world, I recently overclocked my Phenom II x4 940 BE to 3.6 ghz. It's being cooled by h50. I only touched the Multiplier and the Bus speed. I ran the EVEREST stability test just fine. I did have it up to 3.8 but it crashed within minutes. I have included some screen shots of my temps and the test. My question is are the numbers i'm getting my OC to decent and could I go higher safely by adjusting anything else. Any help would be great thanks.


8 gigs of memory ? I don't know for sure, but doesn't higher RAM make it harder to keep a stable overclock _(like more stress on the mobo)_ ? If that's the case, maybe try it at 4GB. I could be wrong.

You should be at 3.8GHz easy, as I was able to do it without issues under stress. I tried 4GHz last night, but not stable, but I expected that anyway.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


at 427.75 x 9 for 3.85GHz at 1.2375v. getting 53-56 degrees Load.

ambient according to this super old meat temp tester, its 75 F so like 24 C [fan and a/c on lol...]

seems kind of high. might reseat the block and use some AS5 or IC7 Diamond

*hope this h50 will help me get thru desert hot temp*s xD


Exactly my thoughts and why I got one. Other than getting it on sale at a local Best Buy.


----------



## Ceadderman

No, no no no no no no, sorry but that is myth. You NEED air in the system. Or you risk building pressure and popping the welds on the radiator. It may be a minor bit of air but it's required for the water displacement. If you look at an automotive cooling system you'll see that it requires air. This works on the same principle but without the cooling reservoir that cars require.

Somewhere on the Radiator their should be a bleed/fill plug. It my even be under the side covers. But there IS air in the system. In any case the best way (imho) is to always approach the system as if it had a 1:4 ratio of air:water.

It may not be enough to harm the system but when you're messing with tech that probably costs 5x as much as the cooler do you REALLY want to take the chance? I don't.

Sorry if I come off so heavy handed. Don't mean to be, just hope I can help people from ruining their nice and shiny H50s'.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *scottath* 
its a fuly sealed system - thus i wouldnt think that there is much air in it at all.

in a "normal" WCing loop having the res at the top to get rid of air is needed - but in a sealed loop i dont think its that important.


----------



## iandroo888

hey u in vegas too ! lol which side? i picked up the last one on shelf on summerlin BB.

what temps are u getting? my temps are fluctuating from like 53 - 68 depending on which test Prime95 is on..

wonder if i should reseat and replace the TIM with like IC7 or something

oh so its a bad idea to have it mounted with the hoses on top? cuz my current setup with fan outside requires it mounted like that... otherwise i can only use two 120x25mm fans due to amt of space between rear panel and the pump/block

is there a difference in having pump plugged into cpu fan or other fan outputs? in bios, i have it set to all manual at 100%


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
hey u in vegas too ! lol which side? i picked up the last one on shelf on summerlin BB.

what temps are u getting? my temps are fluctuating from like 53 - 68 depending on which test Prime95 is on..

wonder if i should reseat and replace the TIM with like IC7 or something

oh so its a bad idea to have it mounted with the hoses on top? cuz my current setup with fan outside requires it mounted like that... otherwise i can only use two 120x25mm fans due to amt of space between rear panel and the pump/block

I have mine mounted with the hoses on bottom, I'll stick to the safe way, regardless if it's better or not.









I'm in Vegas, south actually right by Henderson. _(If I walk across Boulder Hwy, I'll be Henderson. lol)_ And yeah, heat was killing my overclocks on the Xiggy cooler when I was using it so I wanted to get something better this summer.

I've only mounted the H50 cooler once yet, so it still has the stock _(Shin-Etsu)_ TIM on it. Seems ok, but I think if I ever get around to changing the TIM, I'll put my OCZ Freeze on it cause it could probably use less being a lapped CPU. My temps will be a lot different than yours being AMD. I'm usually in the 30's idle to high 40's on load with a 3.6GHz OC. 3.8GHz is stable and all, but I'm sticking to a decent OC with less heat blowing out of my case. _(In my room)_


----------



## iandroo888

wait. its shin etsu on there?? really?


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
wait. its shin etsu on there?? really?

From what most say here, I believe so, yeah.


----------



## iandroo888

hm. doesnt it seem that the amt of thermal paste they put on there, regardless what the TIM it is, to be a lot in the first place?


----------



## BubbleFighter

Where would you guys suggest the position in which the h50 is mounted to achieve the lowest temperatures.


----------



## scottath

for lowest CPU tepms - at a case intake.

for lowest system temps - probs rear exhaust.


----------



## iandroo888

what scottath just said and some say to have the tubes on the bottom. but someone i think said there was a tech from corsair that said it doesnt matter the orientation of the radiator.


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
hm. doesnt it seem that the amt of thermal paste they put on there, regardless what the TIM it is, to be a lot in the first place?

Yeah, it looks like too much TIM as stock. It looked like a pretty thin layer though, which is why I went and used it. But if I didn't know it was Shin-Etsu, I would've most likely replaced it right away.


----------



## DefecTalisman

Thought I would just post a picture of my custom fabricated H50-1 rad bracket/mounting for the 5.25" drive bays.










It fits in the back half of four bays like a glove







and is structurally strong enough to mount anything a 120mm rad could use. I made it from sheet and angle aluminium and half of a CD rom chassis







for that sure set snug fit.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
what scottath just said and some say to have the tubes on the bottom. but someone i think said there was a tech from corsair that said it doesnt matter the orientation of the radiator.

eh, if there's gurgling noises it leads me to believe that there is air in the system. Having the tubes at the bottom is only logical, and having the corsair logo upside down (tubes top) to push out air from the pump if it exists.

cleaned up my mounting and eliminated the zip ties. I found a way to mount the H50 without using extra long screws. I really didnt want to have to go out of my way to a hardware store when you can do it with normal screws (well, i did use 4 screws from a Dell HD carriage. Just long enough to fit through the fan)


----------



## iandroo888

i didnt know it was shin etsu but i asked before hand if it was good and ppl said it was. so i didnt touch it. it seemed like the normal "amount" of TIM manufacturers usually put.. seems like we put a lot less.


----------



## scottath

JEEZE - image sizes - not everyone lives in the US with limitless bandwidth.....

i replaced my TIM with IC7 - seems very good......dont have any benchmarks to compare tohugh


----------



## BubbleFighter

So, should i bother mounting it at the 5.25 bays?


----------



## scottath

personal opinion - if it goes with your build better there - by all means.


----------



## DefecTalisman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scottath* 
JEEZE - image sizes - not everyone lives in the US with limitless bandwidth.....

i replaced my TIM with IC7 - seems very good......dont have any benchmarks to compare tohugh

Sorry







I also don't live in the US, I am from South Africa and bandwidth is also a issue









Quote:


Originally Posted by *BubbleFighter* 
So, should i bother mounting it at the 5.25 bays?

I am happy with it there. It looks clean, works well as a air intake and the temps are good across the board, from start of prime95(a few mins in) to the end(a couple of hours) at stock and overclocked, the temps don't change much.


----------



## Sinthus420

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Nightz2k* 
8 gigs of memory ? I don't know for sure, but doesn't higher RAM make it harder to keep a stable overclock _(like more stress on the mobo)_ ? If that's the case, maybe try it at 4GB. I could be wrong.

You should be at 3.8GHz easy, as I was able to do it without issues under stress. I tried 4GHz last night, but not stable, but I expected that anyway.

I played with the Multiplier and bus speed a bit. I lowered the bus speed but raised the multiplier and I am able to reach 3791 mhz, reaching 54c under full load. I used the everest again to stress test the OC for about 15 minutes and no problems.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Michael Cox*


Bale is that 70C on #1 core or is that the avg? My 9550 has a f'd up core 1 that reads about 10C higher than the other 3. IF that is not the issue than I would say the mount is probably off a bit but then again you are oc'd to 4GHz.


It was core 0 and 1 2 and 3 were about 5c cooler, me and my friend have remounted it a few times and i just turned the rad around seemed to helped the temps some i seen where people say to have hoses at bottom lol how the heck do you do that and get it to install easy. Right now running boinc on all cores and gpu im getting results below i was just looking for much lower temps i guess my cpu just sucks lol nothing has really helped it get any cooler lapping and now a new cooler alot of wasted money.
471x8.5
4000
core0=54
core1=48
core2=48
core3=48


----------



## Ceadderman

It's a CPU cooler show it should be plugged in as such. If you aren't set up in this manner you should probably do so and it may account for your temp fluctuations. Corsair insists on plugging the pump into the CPU connector.

And you don't HAVE TO flip your Rad. I just recommend that you do so to prolong the lifespan of the device. 2 fans would be plenty fine if that's all you have room for. I take it you put a shroud in between the Rad and one of your fans. It's nice to have more flow but also not required.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


hey u in vegas too ! lol which side? i picked up the last one on shelf on summerlin BB.

what temps are u getting? my temps are fluctuating from like 53 - 68 depending on which test Prime95 is on..

wonder if i should reseat and replace the TIM with like IC7 or something

oh so its a bad idea to have it mounted with the hoses on top? cuz my current setup with fan outside requires it mounted like that... otherwise i can only use two 120x25mm fans due to amt of space between rear panel and the pump/block

is there a difference in having pump plugged into cpu fan or other fan outputs? in bios, i have it set to all manual at 100%


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


It's a CPU cooler show it should be plugged in as such. If you aren't set up in this manner you should probably do so and it may account for your temp fluctuations. Corsair insists on plugging the pump into the CPU connector.

And you don't HAVE TO flip your Rad. I just recommend that you do so to prolong the lifespan of the device. 2 fans would be plenty fine if that's all you have room for. I take it you put a shroud in between the Rad and one of your fans. It's nice to have more flow but also not required.









~Ceadder










Thanks for some tips no shroud right now as im at a friends limited parts i need to get some longer screws anyway so i can mount my fm121 high rpms should help my temps alot. But i thk my cpu either reads wrong temps or just flat out puts out tons of heat my mega and h50 are about same temps.


----------



## iandroo888

no shroud yet. dont have screws long enough for that. plannin on putting a shroud when i get longer screws.

hoping it to be like

exhaust << 120x25mm yate loon << shroud ||radiator << 120x38mm panaflo << intake

where the || is the rear panel of the case. u think putting a shroud there would help? no other possible way of putting one other than there. theres limited amount of space between rear panel and the pump/block. max it can fit with a few mm to spare is two 120x25mm fans with the radiator in between.

also, if i use two 120x25mm fans, i can flip the radiator to where the hoses are on bottom. otherwise, with current config, it has to be on top.

*edit*

back to push/pull dual yate-loon 120x25mm inside case.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Iv decided my cpu does not know how to read its own temps remounted 10 times with the h50 and 100 times with mega and always same temps.


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay here is a win/win then.

Mount it like this. Fittings down...

<-- Puller Fan <-- Shroud <-- Case <-- Rad<-- Shroud <--Pusher Fan.

This way you still get to run your fan/shroud but get more flow from both fans.









That should work quite well.

Oh and I would pick up some fan silencers to mount in between them to seal the flow. Only the Rad will be somewhat unsealed as those silencers can be sliced to hell if you put too much torque on them.








On the plus side, just picked up my MS LifeCam "Cinema" so I'll be taking the down time and learning how to use it so I can properly document how to go about doing this for everybody. I like YouTube how-to vids they are sooooo cool.I have a number of them I'm going to put together.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


no shroud yet. dont have screws long enough for that. plannin on putting a shroud when i get longer screws.

hoping it to be like

exhaust << 120x25mm yate loon << shroud ||radiator << 120x38mm panaflo << intake

where the || is the rear panel of the case. u think putting a shroud there would help? no other possible way of putting one other than there. theres limited amount of space between rear panel and the pump/block. max it can fit with a few mm to spare is two 120x25mm fans with the radiator in between.

also, if i use two 120x25mm fans, i can flip the radiator to where the hoses are on bottom. otherwise, with current config, it has to be on top.

*edit*

back to push/pull dual yate-loon 120x25mm inside case.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

im returning this thing if best buy will give a cash refund does anyone know i just bought it yesterday ? its no better then my mega and maybe worse.


----------



## Ceadderman

Sorry to hear that. There are quite a few people that post better temps than what you are though. So maybe yours was one of the bunch that just wasn't cut out for it.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf* 
im returning this thing if best buy will give a cash refund does anyone know i just bought it yesterday ? its no better then my mega and maybe worse.


----------



## Michael Cox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
no shroud yet. dont have screws long enough for that. plannin on putting a shroud when i get longer screws.


I know you have a Lowes near you. Home Depot does not carry them. They only have up to 2in.

You need 6-32 x 3in. Then take your dremel, hacksaw or what ever and cut them down to 2 1/8in long or 2 1/4 and put in a couple of washers (these measurements are good if you are using 25mm thick fans/body's).

If you don't want to do that use some ugly zip ties or use the nuts that come with them put them on and thread them to the top and then screw in the bolt at the measurements above and then bring the nut down to tighten it up. This whole last sentence/paragraph is ugly but it will work.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Sorry to hear that. There are quite a few people that post better temps than what you are though. So maybe yours was one of the bunch that just wasn't cut out for it.









~Ceadder









Yea iv seen people with much better temps on my mega and the h50 im not sure if my cpu just does not read temps right or its just a super hot cpu.


----------



## Michael Cox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf* 
Iv decided my cpu does not know how to read its own temps remounted 10 times with the h50 and 100 times with mega and always same temps.

The Q9550 sucks donkey [email protected] at reading temps. I had to do alot of reasearch on mine and the bottom line was always oc until it crashes then move back a step and that's where you should be regardless of what the first core says.


----------



## KG363

My CM R4 fans are so much louder than the advertised 19dB. They move a lot of air bu they are the loudest part of my rig and I can't stand noise. I'm gonna go to CompUSA today to get a couple of new fans.

Also, my rig is a dust machine. Can anyone recommend a case that's not too expensive and covered in dust filters without restricting airflow.

Thanks


----------



## ben h

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KG363*


My CM R4 fans are so much louder than the advertised 19dB. They move a lot of air bu they are the loudest part of my rig and I can't stand noise. I'm gonna go to CompUSA today to get a couple of new fans.

Also, my rig is a dust machine. Can anyone recommend a case that's not too expensive and covered in dust filters without restricting airflow.

Thanks


dust colects more when u have more intake then exhaust


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Michael Cox*


I know you have a Lowes near you. Home Depot does not carry them. They only have up to 2in.

You need 6-32 x 3in. Then take your dremel, hacksaw or what ever and cut them down to 2 1/8in long or 2 1/4 and put in a couple of washers (these measurements are good if you are using 25mm thick fans/body's).

If you don't want to do that use some ugly zip ties or use the nuts that come with them put them on and thread them to the top and then screw in the bolt at the measurements above and then bring the nut down to tighten it up. This whole last sentence/paragraph is ugly but it will work.


oh lame. lowes has it and HD doesnt?


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


oh lame. lowes has it and HD doesnt?


. . . so do "ACE hardware stores, " only they are _*NOT black*_, but for like 11







each, WHY complain = they'll work, rite? ! ? !

{







... i bought a bag of 25, myself, for under 3 buck's ...







}

mr-Charles .


----------



## iandroo888

no ace's here unfortunately.

ah i dont care if they are black or not really. got enough silver in my case anyway from the aluminum xD


----------



## Ceadderman

That's not necessarily true.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


oh lame. lowes has it and HD doesnt?


@KG363 You can get a HAF 932 for $160(much bigger than the 690) and a custom DEMCiFlex filter kit from www.performance-pcs.com for $40. The filters magnetically cover the side intake, bottom intake grill and the front intake under the front grill. For a bit more you can get a top filter. And for $5 each you can get GPU filters to keep dust out of your Graphics card.









I have the HAF and it's not bad, but I'm getting the Filter kit and the Graphics filters to keep dust to a minimum. I'm not going to get the upper filter since I'll have all the other fans covered and shouldn't need it. If I notice that I'm still getting a bit of dust at the top I'll decide then if it's worth getting it.

I just like having the ability to take the filters outside and blow them off with the compressor or a can of blowoff.









~Ceadder


----------



## KG363

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ben h*


Quote:



Originally Posted by *KG363*


My CM R4 fans are so much louder than the advertised 19dB. They move a lot of air bu they are the loudest part of my rig and I can't stand noise. I'm gonna go to CompUSA today to get a couple of new fans.

Also, my rig is a dust machine. Can anyone recommend a case that's not too expensive and covered in dust filters without restricting airflow.

Thanks


dust colects more when u have more intake then exhaust


Thanks but is there anything else I can do.

And thanks for the recommendation Ceadder


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


. . . so do "ACE hardware stores, " only they are _*NOT black*_, but for like 11







each, WHY complain = they'll work, rite? ! ? !

{







... i bought a bag of 25, myself, for under 3 buck's ...







}

mr-Charles .










I love Ace Hardware store! I have one down the street.


----------



## ben h

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KG363* 
Thanks but is there anything else I can do.

And thanks for the recommendation Ceadder

ya but puting filters on em will restrict air flow allot


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Actually burn in time is less than a day so it qualifies for 0 cure time.









Check my sig for the 80 TIM comparison. I had to dig back to page 87 to get it for anyone to look at if they wish to. I suggest that people take a look.









~Ceadder









In that guide there bud it says "No Curing Time or Special Application Suggested" well I havent been able to locate this special application method for Shin-etsu and would love to know for future reference, I seated this with the grain of rice method in the middle of the cpu.

Great guide!


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd* 
In that guide there bud it says "No Curing Time or Special Application Suggested" well I havent been able to locate this special application method for Shin-etsu and would love to know for future reference, I seated this with the grain of rice method in the middle of the cpu.

Great guide!

That's the way I do it for all my TIM's (AS5, Tuniq TX-2, Gelid GC extreme, and Shin Etsu x34-7783D)

It keeps the processor from getting bubbles(EDIT: between the heatsink/block and itself) which is a must!


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Aye! All good then. jst gotta wait and see how my temps are after 24 hours.


----------



## Ceadderman

Better than fighting the dust bunnies every time you open your cabinet kiddo. Besides the filters I am recommending are made of medical grade screen. Trust me that stuff lets in the air pretty well from just a breeze. Put fans behind them it's not going to matter none.

You just have to remember to take them outside and blow them off every couple of days or so. If you do that it won't impact your flow at all.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ben h* 
ya but puting filters on em will restrict air flow allot


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice, I should point out that this cooler doesn't require so much paste though. Half a grain of rice should be all anyone needs, since you want it to stay within the confines of the CPU.

Now of course I'm having to experiment with the Shin-Etsu x23 formula. As listed in the guide it's thicker than say AS 5 or even Ceramique. But I won't know any more until I get my purchase which won't be until the 7th. I hate Federal Holidays.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*


Aye! All good then. jst gotta wait and see how my temps are after 24 hours.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Nice, I should point out that this cooler doesn't require so much paste though. Half a grain of rice should be all anyone needs, since you want it to stay within the confines of the CPU.

Now of course I'm having to experiment with the Shin-Etsu x23 formula. As listed in the guide it's thicker than say AS 5 or even Ceramique. But I won't know any more until I get my purchase which won't be until the 7th. I hate Federal Holidays.









~Ceadder










Aye! This G751 is pretty thick aswel tbh, I even warmed it up a little in a cup of warm water ofc while in its syringe, just so it was a little easier to squeeze out in a neat line.
I'm tempted to reseat my H50 again after I see what the final temps are on my current setup.


----------



## Ceadderman

From what I saw the G751 seems to be the best. I couldn't find it in normal search in Performance-PCs' site. But when I looked up G751 in their search parameter it came right up. Go figure. Though it is only half a gram of paste. Oh well I want the best.








Sad that I made the purchase of the X23 in that I may not use it now.









It's okay I'm sure someone around here could use it. My bro has a tube of Ceramique floating around. B+ grade prevents me from using it.







heh heh.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*


Aye! This G751 is pretty thick aswel tbh, I even warmed it up a little in a cup of warm water ofc while in its syringe, just so it was a little easier to squeeze out in a neat line.
I'm tempted to reseat my H50 again after I see what the final temps are on my current setup.


----------



## Prugor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Michael Cox*


I know you have a Lowes near you. Home Depot does not carry them. They only have up to 2in.

You need 6-32 x 3in. Then take your dremel, hacksaw or what ever and cut them down to 2 1/8in long or 2 1/4 and put in a couple of washers (these measurements are good if you are using 25mm thick fans/body's).

If you don't want to do that use some ugly zip ties or use the nuts that come with them put them on and thread them to the top and then screw in the bolt at the measurements above and then bring the nut down to tighten it up. This whole last sentence/paragraph is ugly but it will work.


I used the extra on the 3 inches for washers, a nut, and a sturdy 5.25 mounting.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Ok guys so finally sorted out me new drive bay push/pull intake setup and reseated the H50 with fresh Shin-etsu G751. 
Hope you like it


























































Will be posting temps etc soon aswel!


----------



## hondajt

Got another H50. This one is working better than the previous one. Loving it. Works great in my Lan-Gear Da Box with a little modification.


----------



## Ceadderman

WOW! With those Deltas mounted that thing is HUGE.
 






3 drive bays just for that. You might as well get a CM fan bay and modify it to fill the bays.







lol




























Looks like it should work pretty well though.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


WOW! With those Deltas mounted that thing is HUGE.







3 drive bays just for that._* You might as well get a CM fan bay and modify it to fill the bays. *_







lol

~Ceadder










..... doubt you'll have *fun* "Modding" that thing to take/fit the RAD as well as all the Fan's & Shroud stuff . . .









{ that's WHY i chose my way (looking at this posting's of =  >>>click HERE 2 C<<<  . . . or just checkout posting's 
#6161 & #6171 for on this thread } >>> this setup I can remove from 5.25 bay(& unhook from CPU) and install 
into any other Rigg i please to use >>> Within Minutes ! ! . . .








{ here ya go, so you don't half to go back searching for=  >> #6161 <<  &  >> #6171 <<  }

@*R3aCt0r M|Nd = you got the right idea & Nice modd/to Fit-setup for your rigg, also*...









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## iandroo888

sweet as said Lowes had 3" #6-32 screws AND its the round nut with both + and - =D happy ! now to reconfigure... AGAIN >.<" LOL o wait. i need to cut these screws. CRAP ! xD


----------



## Ceadderman

Well the both of us are in 932s' so it would be a natural fit. Also with the extra fan set as intake and the H50 setup tie wrapped into position you can slide it in from the back side of the 5.25 rack and then install the face plate in through the front.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


..... doubt you'll have *fun* "Modding" that thing to take/fit the RAD as well as all the Fan's & Shroud stuff . . .









{ that's WHY i chose my way (looking at this posting's of =  >>>click HERE 2 C<<<  . . . or just checkout posting's 
#6161 & #6171 for on this thread } >>> this setup I can remove from 5.25 bay(& unhook from CPU) and install 
into any other Rigg i please to use >>> Within Minutes ! ! . . .









@*R3aCt0r M|Nd = you got the right idea & Nice modd/to Fit-setup for your rigg, also*...









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


sweet as said Lowes had 3" #6-32 screws AND its the round nut with both + and - =D happy ! now to reconfigure... AGAIN >.<" _*LOL o wait. i need to cut these screws. CRAP ! xD*_



. . . .LOLOLololol ......







.....







..... slow down a bit, Budd; Ya want to do this Right, 
once, and Hopefully, on the First try, too.....









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Well the both of us are in 932s' so it would be a natural fit. Also with the extra fan set as intake and the H50 setup tie wrapped into position you can slide it in from the back side of the 5.25 rack and then install the face plate in through the front.









~Ceadder









....YEAH, RITE, = don't forget, ya gotta cut the ziptie's holding that all in the bay area; then ya hope all's clear
enough of a "Cable-management" just take out the rearward & ALSO hope the Video card does NOT interfere...
....yada.....yada....







...YEAH . . . . Whatever else comes to set YOU back.......uh...HUH . . .







.....LOLOLOLolololol . . . .









ONLY way i see this to work IF you got the Corsair 800D case . . . . .

{sorry to say, already had friend's that have been there, done this & that,
and tried & much MORE modding than thought of to start off with . . .}

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
WOW! With those Deltas mounted that thing is HUGE.







3 drive bays just for that. You might as well get a CM fan bay and modify it to fill the bays.







lol

Looks like it should work pretty well though.









~Ceadder









It's been done.


----------



## Ceadderman

GPU? What do those have to do with the price of tea in China? The GPU in both Cases are at the max height of the HDD chassis.

The area he mounted his H50 in was the top 4 bays. If you looked at his set up he has an Optical Drive in the 1st slot. The remaining 3 slots are taken up by the H50 setup.

Now, if you zip tie the Pusher FAN/Shroud combo into place in that unit you don't have to modify anything. And up above the GPUs' you don't have to worry about running into those.

NOW, what you DO have to worry about is the RAM. Especially if that unit pushes the Puller fan into that area. In any case I don't believe that it does. I have the SAME case. If this were a 690 we were talking about you could do the same thing only there wouldn't be any room for an optical drive.









Oh yes "cable management"? Cable management wouldn't be an issue either as the fan connections can be daisy chained from front to back and out beside the MoBo tray where it can be hidden behind the 5.25 rack. You wouldn't see it unless you looked specifically for it.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
....YEAH, RITE, = don't forget, ya gotta cut the ziptie's holding that all in the bay area; then ya hope all's clear
enough of a "Cable-management" just take out the rearward & ALSO hope the Video card does NOT interfere...
....yada.....yada....







...YEAH . . . . Whatever else comes to set YOU back.......uh...HUH . . .







.....LOLOLOLolololol . . . .









ONLY way i see this to work IF you got the Corsair 800D case . . . . .

{sorry to say, already had friend's that have been there, done this & that,
and tried & much MORE modding than thought of to start off with . . .}

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## mr-Charles

. . . . you just love it When i pull on your hair on your head & make your blood Boil . . .







. . .
. . . I can see it all; >>> just givin ya a Hard time....{ and Lauf'ng hard, 2 ....







} . . . . you can
mellow down, now . . .LOLOLololol .....









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## mr-Charles

YEPPER's, thnx for bringing it up looser101 . . .









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## Ceadderman

~Ceadder


----------



## iandroo888

ghetto mods for the win ! using foil tape to seal gaps between shroud and fan xD


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice, never thought about foil tape, but it makes sense.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


ghetto mods for the win ! using foil tape to seal gaps between shroud and fan xD


----------



## chatch15117

I made a shroud today and put it between my H50 and the push fan. Load temps went down by 7-8C


----------



## ben h

i need a shroud


----------



## iandroo888

crap. so apparently i forgot that i need a shroud or fan between rear case panel and radiator otehrwise screw holes dont match up. its like. 2-3 mm off. using a fan in between got me clear past the slot area so the hole part of the radiator where it sticks out clears it

which is more important u think? intake or exhaust. i can do like. fan case shroud radiator fan.


----------



## Ceadderman

Pics we want pics.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *chatch15117*


I made a shroud today and put it between my H50 and the push fan. Load temps went down by 7-8C


----------



## Ceadderman

Well you could set up your shrouds like this...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*












But if you are only going to run 1 shroud then I would put it after the pusher before the Rad and mount the puller on the other side.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


crap. so apparently i forgot that i need a shroud or fan between rear case panel and radiator otehrwise screw holes dont match up. its like. 2-3 mm off. using a fan in between got me clear past the slot area so the hole part of the radiator where it sticks out clears it

which is more important u think? intake or exhaust. i can do like. fan case shroud radiator fan.


----------



## iandroo888

so intakes air instead of exhausts from case? i dont think that would work so well


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bal3Wolf* 
im returning this thing if best buy will give a cash refund does anyone know i just bought it yesterday ? its no better then my mega and maybe worse.

You expected the H50 to give you lower temps than a Mega? If so then you should have done your homework.


----------



## godofdeath

if you use 2x gentle typhoons ap15 do you need shrouds for it?


----------



## iandroo888

still getting max 70 C during prime95. =[


----------



## nicco

Hello









First of all sorry for poor english - i hope it would be understendable to all









Im new on overclock.net but view'ing all treads about h50's frome begining









I would like to share with u with mine modded stuff









So lets hit it









Im using OC'd E8500 to 4,03ghz. Like we see on CPU-Z screenshot it works under 1.20 - 1,22v on heavy usage. The V-droop is huge i think, cuz @ BIOS ive set 1,35V. RAM is set on CL4 @ 1,99V. I dont mess with others Voltages. But everthig is stable, Running Prime95 blend over 1 hour, and large test on OCCT 1h too stable.

So the modification.

First of all ive changed the tubbing to clear 6/8mm, and lapped corsairs "foot". Mine corsairs "foot" was nasty, the scratches was feealed over feangers and eaven i can put finger nail in to, so i decide to lap it. Lapping was make on water sand paper - but without water. Used grid from 800 to 2000, next car polishing paste. Finished with mirror look. During lapping proces i notice that the "foot" was'nt flat at begining.

Cuz money cut - used 500ml water juce bootle as res, just filled with car coolat mixed with destilated water, and driled two holes in top of bottle.

As TIM used Arctic MX-2 aplled with credit card only on CPU IHS.

As vent i used CoolerMaster R4-L2R-20AC-GP in push/pull with shroud 25mm (cutted from old vent). Orientation was vent push=>shroud=>coolant=>vent pull. Vents was set to 5V.

The temps after few hours of TIM heating up was not fully satisfy me, but better about 5C from stock corsairs. Standard idle up to 10% of cpu usage was core0: 45-48 core1: 40-46, the load 100% (prime95/OCCT) core0: 65-68 core1: 60-66.

Before total mod - i decide to lap cpu ihs too, did it with water sand paper - without water, grid from 600-2000 - ended with mirror effect. I decide to do it cuz core 0/1 temp difrence about 5-6C, and yep the ihs has mountain on center - but finished lapping didnt change the temp difrence - only drop 2C on both cores.

Now with total mod.
Ive used:
- Black Water Advanced 123 rev. 3.0 water radiator - 3x120mm optimized to low RPM fans. With 1/4" holes.
- Black Water O-Tank 400 res. With 1/4" holes.
- Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra TIM
- barbs with screw to tighten tubes SM6/8, G1/4
- Feser One 1L UV Acid Green

Total lenght of tubing is 40+40+50 = 130cm (yup over 1m!)

i put everything outside of case cuz my old 10y case have not place to it, and if something leak, drops on table is safer that on cpu parts









i put radiator and corsairs pump with barbs on top to better air movement. but whole setup was test about 1h on folor - for leaking and to get read all air from pump and radiator.

every one who dint use Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra TIM - dont be afride, ive read so manny opinnion about hard aplly of it - but must say it was very easy, about 5min to apply on corsairs foot and cpu ihs.

As vents i used same CoolerMaster's - 3 in push @ 5V - the shroud is builted in radiator.

Now its 4 days of using total moded h50 and temps are much better. idle to 10% of usage is now core0: 39-42 core1: 37-40, on hard 100% usage 1h blend on prime core0: 54 core1: 49 and the max realtemp GT notice was core0: 57 core1: 53. its 8-10C droop.

I think pump will handle it, i see on top of res fluid bubels spining round slow but still is movement







- thers no vortex like swiftech mcp655







but its ok.

thans for reading








im glad to hear any thoughts and sugestion









hers few fotos









30min of prime95 blend:









CPU IHS Lapping:













































And finaly the modded stuff







(dont bother air bubel on one of radiator barbs - some air left after 1h testing - but pump wiped it out after reconect)


----------



## pedrosa

Seems a bit ott for a core 2 duo


----------



## nicco

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pedrosa*


Seems a bit ott for a core 2 duo



bit ott ? that means?


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicco*


bit ott ? that means?


 over the top


----------



## nicco

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


over the top


right









like i said im poor english









like i understend it means very good for core 2 duo









thx


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicco*


right









like i said im poor english









like i understend it means very good for core 2 duo









thx










 no problem. 
anything for a fellow overclocker!


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Well you could set up your shrouds like this...

But if you are only going to run 1 shroud then I would put it after the pusher before the Rad and mount the puller on the other side.

~Ceadder










Aye! I would agree with ceadder here, but preferably 2x shrouds would be better just get an old 120mm fan and cut out the fins etc and hey presto! 1 shroud dear sir!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iandroo888*


so intakes air instead of exhausts from case? i dont think that would work so well


The thing is, it really depends on what case and what stock case cooling you have, I know from what certain peeps have been saying about lets say the 800D case front intake is better than exhaust, and again with the HAF 932 Peeps have been getting great results with both exhaust/intake setup in a range of locations within the case. 
Just have a ganda back through some pages of this club and you will find what you are looking for, it is a bit daunting I know trust me I joined well into 600+ pages!

Search tool is your friend


----------



## Mr. Pewterschmidt

I just got mine today at Best Buy. It was on sale.Now I need to find a pair of decent fans for push/pull set up.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mr. Pewterschmidt* 
I just got mine today at Best Buy. It was on sale.Now I need to find a pair of decent fans for push/pull set up.

scythe gentle typhoons ap15 (1800rpm) im running this right now on my 4ghz 965 c3 phenom, and occt load temps are 51-52 @ 1,5v!!

love this cooler..idle temps are 28-29c


----------



## Mr. Pewterschmidt

Thanks saiyanzzrage I have been looking at those scythe (nice)


----------



## Ceadderman

Check out performance-pcs.com they have LED Yate-Loon Highspeed 88CFM fans for $4 each w/o sleeving. They will be listed as higher but when you go to the listing itself, you can adjust the price by dropping the sleeving. I have 4 Red LED fans on the way to me right now. They'll be here by the 7th. If I were closer to Florida I'd have them by Wednesday. Since you're in Ohio they should get there pretty quick.









If you don't want LED fans or are not interested in noise but want a good fan try this...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=22998

-$3.00 for stock wiring.

Seriously for the $$$ Yate Loons are AWESOME fans.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mr. Pewterschmidt*


I just got mine today at Best Buy. It was on sale.Now I need to find a pair of decent fans for push/pull set up.


----------



## Mr. Pewterschmidt

Yea I have heard those are some nice fans also. Them or the scythe. Those Noctua seem pretty nice also.


----------



## GreekSniper

i have two COOLER MASTER R4-L2R-20CR-GP fans will they work well with the H50?

they have a high cfm but not sure about static pressure.

because i was thinking on buying the H50 sense i can get it for a relatively cheap price.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd* 
Aye! I would agree with ceadder here, but preferably 2x shrouds would be better just get an old 120mm fan and cut out the fins etc and hey presto! 1 shroud dear sir!

*The thing is, it really depends on what case and what stock case cooling you have, I know from what certain peeps have been saying about lets say the 800D case front intake is better than exhaust, and again with the HAF 932 Peeps have been getting great results with both exhaust/intake setup in a range of locations within the case.
Just have a ganda back through some pages of this club and you will find what you are looking for, it is a bit daunting I know trust me I joined well into 600+ pages!

Search tool is your friend







*

my case doesnt have much fans [not like the 690 i used to have. 7-8 fans. X_X

this case has a front 140mm next to the hdd bay. and a rear 120. thats it. xD

for me, prime95 [blend w/ 4 threads] always gave me higher temps [probably stresses more.] but if i used occt [auto (1hr) medium data normal priority] it was always lower. prime95 gave me max about 66-70 C. occt gave me about 46-52 C


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GreekSniper* 
i have two COOLER MASTER R4-L2R-20CR-GP fans will they work well with the H50?

they have a high cfm but not sure about static pressure.

because i was thinking on buying the H50 sense i can get it for a relatively cheap price.

i have the smoke grey non LED ones. Those work fine with the H50.


----------



## GreekSniper

ok thanks mine are the smoked red led ones


----------



## KG363

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GreekSniper* 
i have two COOLER MASTER R4-L2R-20CR-GP fans will they work well with the H50?

they have a high cfm but not sure about static pressure.

because i was thinking on buying the H50 sense i can get it for a relatively cheap price.

Mine are really loud. Does anyone else have this problem? They move a ton of air but are louder than my graphics cards


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KG363* 
Mine are really loud. Does anyone else have this problem? They move a ton of air but are louder than my graphics cards

There is always a trade-off for cooling depends where you want to be cooling vs noise I went with Scythe GentleTyphoons they don't have the highest CFM but they are fairly quiet but I can hear them and they are the loudest things in my setup but a lot quieter than the R4's and quieter than my GPU fans when they kick up to high. They are more expensive than the R4's too but everyone says the quality is a lot better and they last longer so price vs usability/longevity is higher.


----------



## Demented

Finally got mine installed the other day:










Temps are pretty good on my OC'd Q9550:










I am thinking of getting some of those Gentle Typhoon fans, but I thought I saw on here someone saying not to plug two high powered fans onto the motherboard? I currently am using the stock Antec Tri-Cool>Rad>Stock Corsair on intake, with both fans connected to the motherboard. I would like to be able to connect the two new fans to the motherboard as well for cable management reasons. So what's the worry if I do so?


----------



## Ceadderman

Well to be honest a good fan controller can help diminish the db factor of most any fan. When I do my unboxing on the Yate Loons' I plan to get them super close to the WebCam so people can hear them at full speed. I don't yet have the fan controller I want since nobody carries the FC3 B. Only place I can get them from is an eBay dealer. Not sure I want to do that. Performance-PCs' carries the A version but I want the B Version of that LE controller.









~Ceadder


----------



## kkbob33

I got one of these







No push pull though. Using the stock fan. I only plan to go to 3.6 anyway


----------



## Demented

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Well to be honest a good fan controller can help diminish the db factor of most any fan. When I do my unboxing on the Yate Loons' I plan to get them super close to the WebCam so people can hear them at full speed. I don't yet have the fan controller I want since nobody carries the FC3 B. Only place I can get them from is an eBay dealer. Not sure I want to do that. Performance-PCs' carries the A version but I want the B Version of that LE controller.









~Ceadder









I'm not really worried about noise. With the summer coming in my sweltering 3rd floor apartment, my AC will be running when I'm here, and that makes plenty of noise. I think the person saying not to run them off the motherboard was saying it due to power draw. I'm hopinh it won't be an issue.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Demented* 
Finally got mine installed the other day:

Temps are pretty good on my OC'd Q9550:

I am thinking of getting some of those Gentle Typhoon fans, but I thought I saw on here someone saying not to plug two high powered fans onto the motherboard? I currently am using the stock Antec Tri-Cool>Rad>Stock Corsair on intake, with both fans connected to the motherboard. I would like to be able to connect the two new fans to the motherboard as well for cable management reasons. So what's the worry if I do so?

I don't think that FT's are really a high powered fan at 1850rpm and their amperage draw is negligible. I have both of them plugged into my CPU fan using a Y adapter so they are both going the same speed and they both stay above the rated 1850rpm.


----------



## Sozin

Okay guys, I need your advice. Right now I'm idling at 43C right now and loads at 60C; I don't know ambient temps but I do have two fans running right in front of the desk/computer, so there is colder air by the tower.










My case has a 120mm Antec Tricool fan set on High in the bottom drive bay, then I have the Corsair fan > H50 > another Antec Tricool expelling air out the back along with the top 200mm exhaust fan.

My question is this: is it worth it to try and get some nice fans to replace everything, like some Yate Loons or Scythe Gentle Typhoons? Would they bring down temps at all?


----------



## Ceadderman

I'd say yes it would be worth it. the TriCool Max CFM Rating is 79cfm while the Yate Loon High Flow Max is 88 CFM. Now we both know that real life performance varies. So the TriCools' are probably more around 72cfm and the YLs' are probably more around 83 cfm Then it also depends on your ambient temps. You won't see a major decrease in temps but it will be noticeable if you went with a Scythe or YL. I suggest the latter because you can get them for a song first of all and second because they work well.

Also if you want to lower your temps a bit more put your setup with a shroud or two between the fans and the Rad and put them in your 5.25 bay if you have airflow there. Especially during the summer.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sozin*


Okay guys, I need your advice. Right now I'm idling at 43C right now and loads at 60C; I don't know ambient temps but I do have two fans running right in front of the desk/computer, so there is colder air by the tower.










My case has a 120mm Antec Tricool fan set on High in the bottom drive bay, then I have the Corsair fan > H50 > another Antec Tricool expelling air out the back along with the top 200mm exhaust fan.

My question is this: is it worth it to try and get some nice fans to replace everything, like some Yate Loons or Scythe Gentle Typhoons? Would they bring down temps at all?


----------



## Sozin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I'd say yes it would be worth it. the TriCool Max CFM Rating is 79cfm while the Yate Loon High Flow Max is 88 CFM. Now we both know that real life performance varies. So the TriCools' are probably more around 72cfm and the YLs' are probably more around 83 cfm Then it also depends on your ambient temps. You won't see a major decrease in temps but it will be noticeable if you went with a Scythe or YL. I suggest the latter because you can get them for a song first of all and second because they work well.

Also if you want to lower your temps a bit more put your setup with a shroud or two between the fans and the Rad and put them in your 5.25 bay if you have airflow there. Especially during the summer.

~Ceadder










I know for a fact that the room I'm in is very warm and that is a culprit, and while I'm doing what I can to keep the room cold (fans), my computer just doesn't want to cooperate, and I was wondering if it was just the fans.

I mean right now I'm at 47C idle and are two full fans right next to my desk spewing out cold air. I'm not looking for a miracle drop it temps, but hitting 60C+ during load is unacceptable.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sozin*


I know for a fact that the room I'm in is very warm and that is a culprit, and while I'm doing what I can to keep the room cold (fans), my computer just doesn't want to cooperate, and I was wondering if it was just the fans.

I mean right now I'm at 47C idle and are two full fans right next to my desk spewing out cold air. I'm not looking for a miracle drop it temps, but hitting 60C+ during load is unacceptable.


I have the same processor and have it OCed to 4ghz my idle is 35C. I have two Scythe GentleTyphoons two 25mm fan shrouds in between both fans and have it in my front drive bays as intake it works very great with the current setup the highest I have seen thus far under load is 55C on a very warm day when I didn't have the AC on. Normally under load it is 49-50C.


----------



## Reptar

Which of these fans would be perform better?

Nexus http://www.svc.com/d12sl-12-bw.html

Arctic http://www.svc.com/ca-f12.html

Or is there any other black/white fans that might preform better?


----------



## Sozin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I have the same processor and have it OCed to 4ghz my idle is 35C. I have two Scythe GentleTyphoons two 25mm fan shrouds in between both fans and have it in my front drive bays as intake it works very great with the current setup the highest I have seen thus far under load is 55C on a very warm day when I didn't have the AC on. Normally under load it is 49-50C.


Interesting, I've thought about using a shroud but I don't know if I'll have enough room considering I'm running mATX at the moment. But it seems like getting some new fans might be a good idea, if not now then at least in the long run.


----------



## ben h

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reptar* 
Which of these fans would be perform better?

Nexus http://www.svc.com/d12sl-12-bw.html

Arctic http://www.svc.com/ca-f12.html

Or is there any other black/white fans that might preform better?

look at these
black
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835200048
white
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835200051

i use em on my h50 as a p/p


----------



## Ceadderman

Wow you're not kidding are you.









Get the Yate Loons and look for a bigger case. That's half your problem right there. Hardly any airflow going through that case.









Okay I would mount a fan and shroud on the outside|Rad shroud fan inside.

Also I should state that depending on your domicile fans can actually increase the temp around your area. Fans usually work best when put on the shady side of a house and aimed to circulate the airflow. Blowing on your computer isn't good because it's flushing warm air into a warmer environment.

I used to live in a house that has trees on every side but the front. My roomates would stupidly open the windows and blow hot air into the house. When they moved my house was NEVER hot because I had curtains up and the windows were shut. I would open the windows in the evenings to let in the cooler air and shut them when it started to get chilly. I went 2 summers in that house without an AC and my system did fine.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sozin*


Interesting, I've thought about using a shroud but I don't know if I'll have enough room considering I'm running mATX at the moment. But it seems like getting some new fans might be a good idea, if not now then at least in the long run.


----------



## Sozin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Wow you're not kidding are you.









Get the Yate Loons and look for a bigger case. That's half your problem right there. Hardly any airflow going through that case.









Okay I would mount a fan and shroud on the outside|Rad shroud fan inside.

Also I should state that depending on your domicile fans can actually increase the temp around your area. Fans usually work best when put on the shady side of a house and aimed to circulate the airflow. Blowing on your computer isn't good because it's flushing warm air into a warmer environment.

I used to live in a house that has trees on every side but the front. My roomates would stupidly open the windows and blow hot air into the house. When they moved my house was NEVER hot because I had curtains up and the windows were shut. I would open the windows in the evenings to let in the cooler air and shut them when it started to get chilly. I went 2 summers in that house without an AC and my system did fine.









~Ceadder










I don't mean that they are sitting right in front of the case, I might have chosen my words wrong. I mean that they are doing what they can to get some air circulating in this dungeon I'm in.

Yeah I think I'm going to put in an order for some Yate Loons to put in this case. And to be honest, I love this case and I haven't been able to find a better mATX case out there.

I've looked.

And I'll probably just turn those Antec fans into shrouds. I hope they help.


----------



## ben h

hmm i got some extra fans i wonder if i should cut 1 out and use it for a shroud


----------



## Sozin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ben h*


hmm i got some extra fans i wonder if i should cut 1 out and use it for a shroud


Do it.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ben h*


hmm i got some extra fans i wonder if i should cut 1 out and use it for a shroud


use the krappy ones


----------



## ben h

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sozin*


Do it.


kk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *godofdeath*


use the krappy ones


lol ya i will
i would waist my good 1s


----------



## godofdeath

i got a buncha coolermaster case fans i can gut


----------



## ben h

lol nice
i got a few junk 1s i dont even kno wat they are


----------



## ben h

i need a new cpu
nothing drops the temps my cpu never wants to get any cooler








hasnt changed ever
shrouds didnt do it for me
*thinks about taking em off*
they are a paine to instal lol


----------



## Sozin

Wait the shroud didn't help at all?


----------



## ben h

no i didnt expect it to lol
for some reason my cpu temps dont drop no matter wat i put on it for a cooler
*gets out liquid nitrogen*

but iv had a 20$ 92mm cooler on it a tuniq tower 120 a xigmatek hdt-s1283 
h50 no p/p then h50 with p/p h50 with shrouds and p/p
no temp dif always been about the same temps
idle/gaming 45-50 load 50-55
weird cpu lol

only thing that will make my temps lower is lower ambient temps
iv seen it go to 37C when my room went to 57F one night
other wise now that its summer my room will stay about 60-65


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ben h*


no i didnt expect it to lol
for some reason my cpu temps dont drop no matter wat i put on it for a cooler
*gets out liquid nitrogen*

but iv had a 20$ 92mm cooler on it a tuniq tower 120 a xigmatek hdt-s1283 
h50 no p/p then h50 with p/p h50 with shrouds and p/p
no temp dif always been about the same temps
idle/gaming 45-50 load 50-55
weird cpu lol



What is your vcore on that CPU?


----------



## ben h

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


What is your vcore on that CPU?


1.25
not verry high at all
its siting at 3.15ghz tho

but its been at them temps b4 it waz o/c


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ben h*


1.25
not verry high at all
its siting at 3.15ghz tho

but its been at them temps b4 it waz o/c


Hmmm... Having a read of your previous posts, it may very well be the CPU. Its common for at least one or two cores to have a wonky sensor,,, but Ive not heard of all four being out of wack.


----------



## ben h

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Hmmm... Having a read of your previous posts, it may very well be the CPU. Its common for at least one or two cores to have a wonky sensor,,, but Ive not heard of all four being out of wack.


the temps are usualy close on all 4 cores also
cant realy ask any 1 els with this cpu cuz not many ppl have em lol
i just think the cpu wont get any cooler


----------



## Ceadderman

Time to go AMD.









j/k









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ben h* 
the temps are usualy close on all 4 cores also
cant realy ask any 1 els with this cpu cuz not many ppl have em lol
i just think the cpu wont get any cooler


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Time to go AMD.









j/k









~Ceadder









+1









Seriously though it just might be your particular CPU you can get duds of any CPU that have some flaw in them that you cant overcome.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Ok guys so after my new drivebay push/pull intake mod, my temps have indeed decreased by a fair amount. I'm not on uber idle temps like some but still an improvement to what I was on at Idle and load.

Anyways my Idle and Load temps

































Really quite pleased tbh seeing as my Idle temps have dropped by 4-6 degrees and my load temps are even better at a drop of 7-8 degrees on Core 0 and 9-10 degrees on Core 1, 2 and 3.
really chuffed and now feel that my purchases have been justified hehe.

Cheers!


----------



## sebastianTR

this is realy nice temp.









i m still waiting for h50 i guess this weekend i got one


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sebastianTR* 
this is realy nice temp.









i m still waiting for h50 i guess this weekend i got one









Cheers man, im really happy with the results and so will you be depending on what combination of fans and mounted location within case


----------



## ben h

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Time to go AMD.









j/k









~Ceadder










dont amd run hotter then intel o.0

i kno my amd laptop did

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


+1









Seriously though it just might be your particular CPU you can get duds of any CPU that have some flaw in them that you cant overcome.


ya o well


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

From what ive been reading the newer amd chips run cooler than the i7-i5's etc


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ben h* 
dont amd run hotter then intel o.0

i kno my amd laptop did

ya o well

The new AMD CPU's run a lot cooler than the Intel's. Max for an AMD should be 62C which is a starting point for higher OC's on an I7.


----------



## Ceadderman

lol But they work better hotter than Intel does.









And Laptop chips aside, since you really can't compare a Laptop to a Desktop, Phenom CPUs' are more truthful than Q CPUs'.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ben h* 
dont amd run hotter then intel o.0

i kno my amd laptop did

ya o well


----------



## ben h

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
The new AMD CPU's run a lot cooler than the Intel's. Max for an AMD should be 62C which is a starting point for higher OC's on an I7.

ahh

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
lol But they work better hotter than Intel does.









And Laptop chips aside, since you really can't compare a Laptop to a Desktop, Phenom CPUs' are more truthful than Q CPUs'.









~Ceadder









my amd laptop would run at 90C all day and this intel laptop runs as cool as 15C
ya i kno it dont seem like it should run that sence its same as my ambient cuz it usualy stays the same as my amient


----------



## Ceadderman

My Intel Atom is a flame thrower. I had an AMD HP Notebook and while it never ran "cool" it wasn't that bad. Especially when paired with my Antec Cooler. It rarely got above 52c. Whereas to run my netbook I end up leaving it on top of my 932 to take advantage of the exhaust fan. I can't imagine an i3-i7 running much cooler than an Atom if at all.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ben h* 
ahh

my amd laptop would run at 90C all day and this intel laptop runs as cool as 15C
ya i kno it dont seem like it should run that sence its same as my ambient cuz it usualy stays the same as my amient


----------



## sebastianTR

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd* 
Cheers man, im really happy with the results and so will you be depending on what combination of fans and mounted location within case









i already got 2 enermax magma
i will try push/pull and also i will buy a reservuar and use with it. of course not only water







i m thining use this with turkish cologne its can be -15C and still liquid ofcourse not everytime because this is a HTPC system its will be always open mostly its will work 0.9v 800mhz but when i make some oc









cheers guys


----------



## thisispatrick

Getting higher temps than my Dark Knight :\\ Going to do a few re-seats and see how it goes.


----------



## ben h

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
My Intel Atom is a flame thrower. I had an AMD HP Notebook and while it never ran "cool" it wasn't that bad. Especially when paired with my Antec Cooler. It rarely got above 52c. Whereas to run my netbook I end up leaving it on top of my 932 to take advantage of the exhaust fan. I can't imagine an i3-i7 running much cooler than an Atom if at all.









~Ceadder









lol ya i guess

cleaning dust out of pc FTW
lol
i <3 portable air compressor


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ben h* 
lol ya i guess

cleaning dust out of pc FTW
lol
i <3 portable air compressor

GIEF! I want one!


----------



## ben h

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd* 
GIEF! I want one!

lol ya there nice to have
brought it in my room so i didnt have to bring my comp out to the garage
blew out my rad case and fans









but there aint many tools we dont own


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah they're awesome ain't they? Sure beats $8 to $10 for per can of Blowoff.

I finally got my school refund but am stuck having to wait on my money cause my Bank doesn't want me to have access to it for another two weeks. Don't get me wrong it's my fault, but crap that's 2 weeks too long. On top of that the day they are letting me at my money is on a Saturday and my branch isn't open on Saturdays so they get 2 more days by default.









I'm gonna have to go in this Friday and see if I can't get access to my system funds so I can get my system straightened out. The sata ports on this MoBo are sketchy and I'd rather not fragg my HDD because I ran this board longer than I should have.









No system, no school. No school, no funds. No funds no career.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ben h* 
lol ya i guess

cleaning dust out of pc FTW
lol
i <3 portable air compressor


----------



## ben h

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Yeah they're awesome ain't they? Sure beats $8 to $10 for per can of Blowoff.

I finally got my school refund but am stuck having to wait on my money cause my Bank doesn't want me to have access to it for another two weeks. Don't get me wrong it's my fault, but crap that's 2 weeks too long. On top of that the day they are letting me at my money is on a Saturday and my branch isn't open on Saturdays so they get 2 more days by default.









I'm gonna have to go in this Friday and see if I can't get access to my system funds so I can get my system straightened out. The sata ports on this MoBo are sketchy and I'd rather not fragg my HDD because I ran this board longer than I should have.









No system, no school. No school, no funds. No funds no career.









~Ceadder









lol i would never buy a can of air

and that sux hope u can get access to it


----------



## Xraven771

Will be in this club soon


----------



## Ceadderman

I will, but it sucks watching things taken out of my shopping cart only to have to put them back when they come back in stock. Like my Dominators did today.









Alot of it is just a matter of principle, it's my money and I've put thousands through that account in School Refunds, so there shouldn't be a question as to the validity of the check. The big issue was that they suggested that I take it to the nearest JP Morgan/Chase bank. Which is in Portland, Oregon. That would cost me $80 in gas round trip then time and food AND being that it's not from their branch they could tell me I had to open an account with them and having issues with my Bank still on the books they could tell me they won't even open an account. All to make us more reliant on Banks in the first place. What a crock.









So it could certainly have been worse. I could have made a long trip for nothing and been out $80+ in the process. I just need these people to realize that I need parts for my system to be ordered and pronto. I'll be buying air for another 3 months too. At least it's on sale at Staples right now buy one 2 pack get one 2 pack free.









On a plus note at least my YLs' and Shin-Etsu paste will be here before I get everything together.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ben h* 
lol I would never buy a can of air

and that sux hope u can get access to it


----------



## ben h

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I will, but it sucks watching things taken out of my shopping cart only to have to put them back when they come back in stock. Like my Dominators did today.









Alot of it is just a matter of principle, it's my money and I've put thousands through that account in School Refunds, so there shouldn't be a question as to the validity of the check. The big issue was that they suggested that I take it to the nearest JP Morgan/Chase bank. Which is in Portland, Oregon. That would cost me $80 in gas round trip then time and food AND being that it's not from their branch they could tell me I had to open an account with them and having issues with my Bank still on the books they could tell me they won't even open an account. All to make us more reliant on Banks in the first place. What a crock.









So it could certainly have been worse. I could have made a long trip for nothing and been out $80+ in the process. I just need these people to realize that I need parts for my system to be ordered and pronto. I'll be buying air for another 3 months too. At least it's on sale at Staples right now buy one 2 pack get one 2 pack free.









On a plus note at least my YLs' and Shin-Etsu paste will be here before I get everything together.









~Ceadder










lol well if u get the money a small air compressor is like 100$ or less


----------



## Ceadderman

$60 at Home Depot for a 2 Gallon pump and tank. So it's not that much but my system and filters are going to run me about $1800, and I need to keep some funds in the bank for bills etc and cost overruns.









I have $2883 after $100 taken out of the $3000(rounded up)
$1800 for the system not inluding DEMCiFlex custom filter kits(x2)
$300 for utillities
$40 for water filter(nasty tap water here)
$150 for Savings.

As you can see there isn't much left over for things like Printer Paper and ink, and any unforseen items that I may need. It has to last me until the 2nd of August at the very least and I've got $100 to pay traffic fines in Oregon.







lol

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *ben h*


lol well if u get the money a small air compressor is like 100$ or less


----------



## Geforce_GTX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ben h*


dont amd run hotter then intel o.0

i kno my amd laptop did

ya o well


AMD runs cooler than intel's.

And thats a laptop,they run hot regardless of brand,my intel laptop wont go below 47-50C @ idle.


----------



## Mr. Pewterschmidt

Where can you buy the extra screws you need for the p/p set up(USA) I still haven't decided what Fans to buy for it.


----------



## Demented

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mr. Pewterschmidt*


Where can you buy the extra screws you need for the p/p set up(USA) I still haven't decided what Fans to buy for it.


Most hardware stores have them. They are the 6-32 1.25" screws.


----------



## Mr. Pewterschmidt

Thanks Demented now maybe I can order some fans(maybe Tomorrow)


----------



## hotsauce2007

we have a new member here:










simple at now, but i wanna do the mod with reservator,
thanks all...


----------



## ben h

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
$60 at Home Depot for a 2 Gallon pump and tank. So it's not that much but my system and filters are going to run me about $1800, and I need to keep some funds in the bank for bills etc and cost overruns.









I have $2883 after $100 taken out of the $3000(rounded up)
$1800 for the system not inluding DEMCiFlex custom filter kits(x2)
$300 for utillities
$40 for water filter(nasty tap water here)
$150 for Savings.

As you can see there isn't much left over for things like Printer Paper and ink, and any unforseen items that I may need. It has to last me until the 2nd of August at the very least and I've got $100 to pay traffic fines in Oregon.







lol

~Ceadder









woh wat system?
system as in computer lol
dam only 300$ for food and stuff
u must eat allot of ramen noodles









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Geforce_GTX* 
AMD runs cooler than intel's.

And thats a laptop,they run hot regardless of brand,my intel laptop wont go below 47-50C @ idle.

ur intel runs hot









ill still stick with my intel


----------



## Seanicy

Hey guys been out for a bit and did a few upgrades to the case...
First off I swapped my 965 for a 1055T. Then I added another fan for a push/pull on the h50, added one shroud to the intake fan also...Here are some pics and some oc's...Home Depot didn't have the proper screws or anything I could use so I got some 8/32 thread X 2 1/2" ones to suffice...Thanks Snapshot for the prior info...Temps are lovely on this chip. click links for temps. OC results from intel burn test were a little high but didn't crah and 3D Mark 06 didn't break 45c...


















*Stock clocks on CPU and GTX480*
*Overclocked CPU, GTX480 stock*

IDK whats going on with my GTX480 but in BC2 I am getting solid 80-100 FPS in DX10 with High settings, 4XAA/4XAF HBAO=OFF...But my card is only being used 50-60% which is just like the pics in the stock clock link...I rolled back drivers and am getting better frames but same utilization...so weird


----------



## tyuo9980

how would you attach the fan if you have a 38mm fan?


----------



## ben h

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tyuo9980* 
how would you attach the fan if you have a 38mm fan?

same way longer screws


----------



## Ceadderman

Ummm you don't?









Wait what? Are you speaking of thickness or overall size?

If you're speaking of a 12cm x 3.8cm fan then you just need longer bolts.

If you're speaking of actual footprint, the only way you attach one of those little buggers is to have a shroud adapter 12cm to 4 cm. If it's the latter what possesses you to skimp on cooling?









Hey ben I have $200 a month that goes for food, so no worries there. I eat good. But I do like noodles.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *tyuo9980*


how would you attach the fan if you have a 38mm fan?


----------



## ben h

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Ummm you don't?









Wait what? Are you speaking of thickness or overall size?

If you're speaking of a 12cm x 3.8cm fan then you just need longer bolts.

If you're speaking of actual footprint, the only way you attach one of those little buggers is to have a shroud adapter 12cm to 4 cm. If it's the latter what possesses you to skimp on cooling?









Hey ben I have $200 a month that goes for food, so no worries there. I eat good. But I do like noodles.









~Ceadder










i dont think any 1 would actualy try and hook a 38mm fan up to a rad lolz

and iv heard its hard to live off 200-300$ a month for food o.0
ppl that told me that tho might of been 1 of them ppl that think they have to have the best food tho

best as is most expensive
and i like noodles also


----------



## tyuo9980

where do i get them? home depot dont got them.

120x120x38mm fans.

oh and cant you just use shorter screws and attach it? the rim is just 5mm thick some1 told me.

also some1 mentioned that i can use zip ties? can some1 explain that to me?


----------



## ben h

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tyuo9980*


where do i get them? home depot dont got them.

120x120x38mm fans.


get some 1.75 in bolts
home depot should have em
there 8X32 thread bolts( i think some 1 corect me if im wrong)
other wise
mills fleet farm
ace hard ware
lowes
menards


----------



## jtluongo

Im in


----------



## p8blr

Added Black Ice 120mm radiator, BitsPower reservoir, two Silverstone 120mm fans in push/pull config. I am using distilled water with ~ 7% of Swiftec Hydrx. Also I removed the cover to the H50, noticed the little heatsink was getting REALLY hot with it on. Didn't measure it, but I couldn't hold my finger on it for more than a second. After I took the cover off, it runs nice and cool now.

I've got an i7 920 overclocked to 4.04 GHz @ 1.32v

Cores idle around 40C - 43C
[email protected] brings temps up to 42C - 49C
p95 tops the temps out between 52C - 57C after an hour

enjoy!


----------



## ben h

dam








i want that res


----------



## airbadger

So I just upgraded from an E6600 setup to a i5-750 with an H50 and I've got it running at 4.0ghz but I'm idling at around 46 degrees C and topping out at around 78 degrees C after 10 minutes of Prime95... that can't be good... I've got a vcore of 1.328v which doesn't seem that bad. Anyone have some ideas for me?


----------



## tyuo9980

Quote:


Originally Posted by *airbadger* 
So I just upgraded from an E6600 setup to a i5-750 with an H50 and I've got it running at 4.0ghz but I'm idling at around 46 degrees C and topping out at around 78 degrees C after 10 minutes of Prime95... that can't be good... I've got a vcore of 1.328v which doesn't seem that bad. Anyone have some ideas for me?

set the fan to intake instead of exhaust.

if ur running a push/pull, makes sure they aren't blowing against each other...


----------



## Ceadderman

Ha! That's the Res that mates to the Swiftech modification kit that I've been eyeballing. One end mounts in between the pump and the fitting top. I'll still go 5.25 XSPC Bay Res but that's cause it has a gauge on it that lets you know when you need to fill up. But when I go h2o I wan't 1/2" fittings.









The bolts are actually 6x32 thread stock. Close tho ben.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ben h* 
dam








i want that res


----------



## Sozin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Seanicy* 
Hey guys been out for a bit and did a few upgrades to the case...
First off I swapped my 965 for a 1055T. Then I added another fan for a push/pull on the h50, added one shroud to the intake fan also...Here are some pics and some oc's...Home Depot didn't have the proper screws or anything I could use so I got some 8/32 thread X 2 1/2" ones to suffice...Thanks Snapshot for the prior info...Temps are lovely on this chip. click links for temps. OC results from intel burn test were a little high but didn't crah and 3D Mark 06 didn't break 45c...

I'm in the same situation as you, I sold my 965 today and bought a 1055T, I just couldn't stand how hot the chip ran. I hope that my 1055T runs a bit cooler.


----------



## ben h

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Ha! That's the Res that mates to the Swiftech modification kit that I've been eyeballing. One end mounts in between the pump and the fitting top. I'll still go 5.25 XSPC Bay Res but that's cause it has a gauge on it that lets you know when you need to fill up. But when I go h2o I wan't 1/2" fittings.









The bolts are actually 6x32 thread stock. Close tho ben.









~Ceadder










lol o
ya i want it for my h50
cuz then ill mount it as an intake cuz the flow would just work out better that way

but that res would look sexy in my case








but aint got the money atm for it


----------



## airbadger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tyuo9980*


set the fan to intake instead of exhaust.

if ur running a push/pull, makes sure they aren't blowing against each other...


It's set to intake, I haven't tried a push/pull setup.


----------



## nicco

Quote:



enjoy!











hi!

very very nicelee done! similary rez to mine posted @ http://www.overclock.net/9514416-post9409.html. that coolant fluid is feser acid green like mine or what? dont know aboit i5/i7 temps but looks good









cheers


----------



## Reptar

How would these NZXT fans be in a push pull?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...ZXT-_-35146001


----------



## p8blr

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nicco* 
hi!

very very nicelee done! similary rez to mine posted @ http://www.overclock.net/9514416-post9409.html. that coolant fluid is feser acid green like mine or what? dont know aboit i5/i7 temps but looks good









cheers

Hey! Thanks for the props!
I should have mentioned that in my post (I'll edit it here in a minute...) anyways I'm using distilled water with ~ 7% of Swiftech Hydrx.









Also, how long have you been running you setup? I can't believe the h50 can handle triple rad like that! But it looks awesome nonetheless!


----------



## nicco

Quote:



Originally Posted by *p8blr*


Also, how long have you been running you setup? I can't believe the h50 can handle triple rad like that! But it looks awesome nonetheless!


im running it about 1 week, but here is http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8591687

another user mod using 360 rad, working good









that mine 360 rad has no restrict flow - i can blow in to it without any hard, blowing into orginal 120 corsair rad makes me much harder. also adding coolant into empty loop - with older setup was very hard to make pump realy pumping cooland and air from loop - with new setup i rise rez little above loop and gravity does 50% and pump rest, few knocks and shakes of pump and radiator and everyting filled in and air out









also in pump rpm's i see allmost no drop - ive got 1520-1470rpm with clear tubbing and juce bottel res - and now with about 130cm tubbing, res and 360 rad - pump is runing about 1410-1440rpm - so i think she got not much harder to push









cheers


----------



## SonDa5

Original H50 gangsta checking in yo.









My S775 Q9550 machine.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SonDa5*


Original H50 gangsta checking in yo.








My S775 Q9550 machine.










. . . . Do YOU realize that you are showing of Two different setup's/system_picture's ? ? ?







...







...







.....

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## zefs

Thumbs up for Gentle Typhoon AP15. They are silent in comparison to the slip stream 1900 I was using for the H50 and they seem to perform the same(at least on idle didn't notice temp difference).


----------



## imh073p

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
. . . . Do YOU realize that you are showing of Two different setup's/system_picture's ? ? ?







...







...







.....

mr-Charles .









.

Looks like the same rig to me. The thermalright hr-03 kinda gives it away


----------



## toyz72

so it doesnt matter if you istall the h50's sideways or do you need to know which one is the return line. just wondering because i'm installing mine today.


----------



## nicco

Quote:



Originally Posted by *toyz72*


so it doesnt matter if you istall the h50's sideways or do you need to know which one is the return line. just wondering because i'm installing mine today.


i have tryed every direction eaven upsidedown with barbs "looking" down - every set work fine and allmost same temp. just after changing direction of radiator got noise of pump pushing air bubles throu for a while.

cheers


----------



## Ceadderman

Hmmm, you're sure you want to run 47.5 cfm fans? Is it because they're black and white? If so, I'm sure you could find something producing better flow than 47.5 cfm.

Try these

Sharkoon Silent Eagle 2000 "Golf Ball" 120mm Case Fan










~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reptar* 
How would these NZXT fans be in a push pull?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...ZXT-_-35146001


----------



## thisispatrick

Hrm... My cpu starts off at a nice 31C and now its at 36C. Damn it..............


----------



## Ceadderman

I'm cornfoozed, did you want it to go lower than 31c?









31c is damn good. Hell even 36c is good. So you lost me.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thisispatrick* 
Hrm... My cpu starts off at a nice 31C and now its at 36C. Damn it..............


----------



## thisispatrick

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
I'm cornfoozed, did you want it to go lower than 31c?









31c is damn good. Hell even 36c is good. So you lost me.









~Ceadder









Well of course I would like it to stay at 31C. But after a while, I guess the computer warming up, it now idles at high 30's. Oh well at least my load temp is at 50c I guess


----------



## Ceadderman

I'm idling in the high 30s' with onboard Graphics and stock cooler at the moment. So you're idling in the same range with a much hotter GPU in the case. That's a solid temp. 5870s' don't exactly run cool.









I just want my stuff so I can compare my temps under like circumstances.Soon tho, soon.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *thisispatrick* 
Well of course I would like it to stay at 31C. But after a while, I guess the computer warming up, it now idles at high 30's. Oh well at least my load temp is at 50c I guess


----------



## thisispatrick

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
I'm idling in the high 30s' with onboard Graphics and stock cooler at the moment. So you're idling in the same range with a much hotter GPU in the case. That's a solid temp. 5870s' don't exactly run cool.









I just want my stuff so I can compare my temps under like circumstances.Soon tho, soon.









~Ceadder









Er its now idling at 40C and I'm not doing anything... WHY GOD WHY :'( Actually my 5870 runs pretty cool because I have an aftermarket cooler.


----------



## trentiles

Does anyone know what size screws I would need if I want to run a shrouded fan on both sides of the rad?

The fan and shroud are both 25mm.


----------



## thisispatrick

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trentiles* 
Does anyone know what size screws I would need if I want to run a shrouded fan on both sides of the rad?

The fan and shroud are both 25mm.

Its 6-32 and as for the length, its just going to have to be bigger than 50mm.


----------



## trentiles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thisispatrick* 
Its 6-32 and as for the length, its just going to have to be bigger than 50mm.

Thanks. I'm planning on replacing my CM 212+ today with a H50 as long as my best buy has some left.

+rep


----------



## Seanicy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trentiles*


Does anyone know what size screws I would need if I want to run a shrouded fan on both sides of the rad?

The fan and shroud are both 25mm.


The Home Depot didn't have crap for screws so I picked up some 8/32 thread by 2 1/2" long...I have some extra screw that needs to be chopped but the fan and shroud are not moving...Pics can be found here


----------



## Ceadderman

You do realize that 8-32 is a different thread pitch than 6-32 right?









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Seanicy*


The Home Depot didn't have crap for screws so I picked up some 8/32 thread by 2 1/2" long...I have some extra screw that needs to be chopped but the fan and shroud are not moving...Pics can be found here


----------



## wazz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Seanicy*


The Home Depot didn't have crap for screws so I picked up some 8/32 thread by 2 1/2" long...I have some extra screw that needs to be chopped but the fan and shroud are not moving...Pics can be found here


Nice, i like the way you have that set up, my problem is that i cant get the res to fit inside the case with both fans on it. Im figureing out the Tt V3 sucks for space.. but im wondering what did you mean extra screws requiring chopping? i have the fan shrouds and screwes but cant find a solution on mounting the shrouds







i can mount the one inside the case and just barely have enough room, but not the outside due to the cable for the fan any suggestions is more than welcome.


----------



## Reptar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Hmmm, you're sure you want to run 47.5 cfm fans? Is it because they're black and white? If so, I'm sure you could find something producing better flow than 47.5 cfm.

Try these

Sharkoon Silent Eagle 2000 "Golf Ball" 120mm Case Fan

~Ceadder










Cool, thanks man!


----------



## Ceadderman

No problem. Just couldn't see spending money on something that has similar flow as the stock Corsair 12cm fan. Might as well get an increase in performance if you're going to spend the money on them.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reptar* 
Cool, thanks man!


----------



## wolleylabel

Bestbuys. com is having a sale on these...now i just gotta go pick it up


----------



## ned99

I'm getting an H50 and was wondering if it's okay to have the radiator directly against the back of the case 120mm fan grill. This is the setup I was thinking of with 2 70cfm Yate-Loon's:

fan-> shroud-> H50-> case-> shroud-> fan

Seems kind crazy but I figured that I could mount the 2nd shroud and fan outside the case to save space.


----------



## ben h

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ned99* 
I'm getting an H50 and was wondering if it's okay to have the radiator directly against the back of the case 120mm fan grill. This is the setup I was thinking of with 2 70cfm Yate-Loon's:

fan-> shroud-> H50-> case-> shroud-> fan

Seems kind crazy but I figured that I could mount the 2nd shroud and fan outside the case to save space.

just cut off the grill so its not restricting air flow

but if u cant just put some washers cuz the grill usualy sticks out a lil bit and u dont want ur fins getting pressed up against it


----------



## ned99

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ben h*


just cut off the grill so its not restricting air flow

but if u cant just put some washers cuz the grill usualy sticks out a lil bit and u dont want ur fins getting pressed up against it


Thanks for the tip. I'll pick up some washers to give it some room. Guess I'll need to find really long screws. Anyone else tried putting the shroud and fan outside of the case?


----------



## ben h

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ned99*


Thanks for the tip. I'll pick up some washers to give it some room. Guess I'll need to find really long screws. Anyone else tried putting the shroud and fan outside of the case?


havnt seen it with an h50 rad but iv seen it with other rads kinda thinkin about doing that my self


----------



## SonDa5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


. . . . Do YOU realize that you are showing of Two different setup's/system_picture's ? ? ?







...







...







.....

mr-Charles .









.



It's the same system. Just with different configurations in chipset cooling.

I started a H50 club at techpowerup in September 2009.

http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=104682


----------



## GreekSniper

I just bought the H50 today at best buy. of course they had it on sale plus i had two gift cards and i got it for $25

its on my sig rig and im liking the quietness if it. i was a little concerned when i did a dry run buy just putting power to it and i was here gurgling like there was air in the pump but after awhile it went away, not sure what it was.

idle temps havent changed but on load it doesnt go past 45C and i have not OC'ed yet.

Oh and im doing push/pull setup with two CM R4's i also have it setup as an exhaust.


----------



## Unleash The Beast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GreekSniper*


I just bought the H50 today at best buy. of course they had it on sale plus i had two gift cards and i got it for $25

its on my sig rig and im liking the quietness if it. i was a little concerned when i did a dry run buy just putting power to it and i was here gurgling like there was air in the pump but after awhile it went away, not sure what it was.

idle temps havent changed but on load it doesnt go past 45C and i have not OC'ed yet.

Oh and im doing push/pull setup with two CM R4's i also have it setup as an exhaust.


When the h50 is brand new it the pumps makes a sound. For me it went away in a day or so.


----------



## nathris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Unleash The Beast* 
When the h50 is brand new it the pumps makes a sound. For me it went away in a day or so.

The sound will appear whenever you shift it around too much.

Eg, whenever I take my PC out to dust and put it back it sounds like an undervolted ultra kaze for a few hours. I think it has something to do with bubbles in the loop.

My rad is higher than my pump so eventually all of the air makes it's way up to the res on top of the rad.

Also, I just found out the hard way that having a top exhaust is an absolute must when going intake.

I have 2 120mm XLFs to do that job, but they cut out in the middle of folding, leaving me with practically no exhaust in the case. It turns out that a 3 pin-molex-3 pin daisy chain isn't the most reliable setup. I got them going again and my temps instantly dropped 5 degrees


----------



## damric

Here are my questions:

1) What do you do with your H50 when that 2 year warranty runs out? Continue to use? Pass along to your frenemy? Sell to ebay noob?

2) Would Corsair still cover your hardware if the pump stopped overheated your CPU? What if those O-rings finally wore out and they leaked?

Thisis something to think about, but not worry about too much. I'm sure not many of you are coming up on 2 years of ownership, but that warranty will expire sooner than later!


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *damric*


Here are my questions:

1) What do you do with your H50 when that 2 year warranty runs out? Continue to use? Pass along to your frenemy? Sell to ebay noob?

2) Would Corsair still cover your hardware if the pump stopped overheated your CPU? What if those O-rings finally wore out and they leaked?

Thisis something to think about, but not worry about too much. I'm sure not many of you are coming up on 2 years of ownership, but that warranty will expire sooner than later!


One of the best questions asked


----------



## navit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nathris* 
The sound will appear whenever you shift it around too much.

Eg, whenever I take my PC out to dust and put it back it sounds like an undervolted ultra kaze for a few hours. I think it has something to do with bubbles in the loop.

My rad is higher than my pump so eventually all of the air makes it's way up to the res on top of the rad.

Also, I just found out the hard way that having a top exhaust is an absolute must when going intake.

I have 2 120mm XLFs to do that job, but they cut out in the middle of folding, leaving me with practically no exhaust in the case. It turns out that a 3 pin-molex-3 pin daisy chain isn't the most reliable setup. I got them going again and my temps instantly dropped 5 degrees









Yes top exhaust is a must if your going intake. I have 2 140mm fans on top and idle, load temps were very good but it really did heat up my case to much for my liking. As soon as I set it up as exhaust mobo temps, nb, gpu, and load all dropped by 5c or more in some cases


----------



## sebastianTR

Quote:


Originally Posted by *damric* 
Here are my questions:

1) What do you do with your H50 when that 2 year warranty runs out? Continue to use? Pass along to your frenemy? Sell to ebay noob?



you probloy sell it or clean it very well and you can buy a water reservuar and some pipe and contine to use


----------



## morphus1

need to know the direction from pump head. Which is in and out please fill me in







(yes i also posted in the other thread)thanks guys

EDIT: BUMP


----------



## dafour

just trying some things out


----------



## navit

HMMMMMM,


----------



## Ceadderman

2)I doubt that Corsair would cover this once the system hit the 2 year mark

1)I'll burn that bridge when I get to it. More than likely I'll recycle it and buy another but I'm going to be in a full h2o rig by that time as I imagine many of you will be.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *damric*


Here are my questions:

1) What do you do with your H50 when that 2 year warranty runs out? Continue to use? Pass along to your frenemy? Sell to ebay noob?

2) Would Corsair still cover your hardware if the pump stopped overheated your CPU? What if those O-rings finally wore out and they leaked?

Thisis something to think about, but not worry about too much. I'm sure not many of you are coming up on 2 years of ownership, but that warranty will expire sooner than later!


----------



## identitycrisis

So, I just sold off my waterloop (to pay some bills) and I picked up the corsair H50 at bb for $60. I already have 2x scythe gentle typhoons brand new, and 2x panaflow 38mm 86 cfm fans, which are LOUD, and I would prefer not to use them, but either pair can be put on the h50 with shrouds.

My i5 can hit 4.3ghz, does the H50 have the capability to cool an i5 with great success? or would I be better with a megahelms or something?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *morphus1*


need to know the direction from pump head. Which is in and out please fill me in







(yes i also posted in the other thread)thanks guys

EDIT: BUMP


Looing at the Corsair Logo on the pump, the left tube is outbound and the right tube is inbound.

Take a look at the image below, this should help.


----------



## Ceadderman

Megahelms take up way too much of your case. Go with the H50. The temps are reasonably similar, but once you're used to an h2o loop, I imagine that it would be hard to go back to having a monster cooler in your case. I was going to go with CM's V10 but... well H50 kicks it ass and somewhat prepares me for h2o.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *identitycrisis* 
So, I just sold off my waterloop (to pay some bills) and I picked up the corsair H50 at bb for $60. I already have 2x scythe gentle typhoons brand new, and 2x panaflow 38mm 86 cfm fans, which are LOUD, and I would prefer not to use them, but either pair can be put on the h50 with shrouds.

My i5 can hit 4.3ghz, does the H50 have the capability to cool an i5 with great success? or would I be better with a megahelms or something?


----------



## identitycrisis

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Megahelms take up way too much of your case. Go with the H50. The temps are reasonably similar, but once you're used to an h2o loop, I imagine that it would be hard to go back to having a monster cooler in your case. I was going to go with CM's V10 but... well H50 kicks it ass and somewhat prepares me for h2o.









~Ceadder









I am not worried about space, there is no lack of it in my case:



















Then again, I just might part it all and bump down to a laptop...


----------



## Defiler

Just an FYI. If you live near New Tampa, FL. The new Best Buy there had two H50s on clearance for $60 ea. on the floor.


----------



## Ceadderman

I would, but the shipping cost would bump it right back up to $80.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Defiler* 
Just an FYI. If you live near New Tampa, FL. The new Best Buy there had two H50s on clearance for $60 ea. on the floor.

@identitycrisis... Yeah I know what you mean. I'm in the HAF 932 so no problem with room for me either. But I like having the ability to move my hands around inside the cabinet and be able to dust closer to the CPU cooler with the paint brush and blow off. Can't do THAT with a monster Cooler.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## zefs

I just replaced the HAF 932 top fan with two scythe slip stream 1900 rpm and the corsair H50 fan. I think load temps dropped quite a bit!


----------



## Ceadderman

In exhaust or intake?









I'm going to mount my 3 YLs' up there for the time being but my temps have always been reasonable with the 230 in exhaust. And I plan to return it there once I get another 23cm LED to put in the front. I have 2 now, stupid of CM to only give one for the Red 932s'.Like THAT is going to light up the whole case and allow one to see though the plexi.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *zefs*


I just replaced the HAF 932 top fan with two scythe slip stream 1900 rpm and the corsair H50 fan. I think load temps dropped quite a bit!


----------



## zefs

As exhaust, all three of them. As intake it doesn't work that well...


----------



## Ceadderman

How are you running the H50? As stock with stand alone Corsair fan?

Or are you running the Corsair mated with another fan and a shroud?

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *zefs* 
As exhaust, all three of them. As intake it doesn't work that well...


----------



## morphus1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Looing at the Corsair Logo on the pump, the left tube is outbound and the right tube is inbound.

Take a look at the image below, this should help.




THAnKS! Rep'd


----------



## morphus1

OK got another problem







.....

I have just refitted my H50 to run with another GTS X flow 120 and a DD rez there is 25cm tubing between each component and when i ran a test i couldnt see the flow :/ I'm pretty sure it wasnt moving :/ I took the whole bottom plate off totry and see which way the flow went and i think i might of put it on the wrong way. I dont think i did but i cant think of any other reason other than that or that the pump cant push the water round 2 120 rad's and a fillport.

Any ideas?? 
ps i can hear the pump running


----------



## zefs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


How are you running the H50? As stock with stand alone Corsair fan?

Or are you running the Corsair mated with another fan and a shroud?

~Ceadder










I got two Gentle Typhoon AP 15 on the rad which is placed on the drive bay as intake.


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay. If you have an old 120mm laying about you may gut it and try adding that in between your Pusher and the Rad. That should lower your temps better than replacing the 230 with 2 120s'.

On a side note I have to power down for some LED testing since I just switched out the lightsaber blue LEDs' in my other I/O panel. It was DOA and I have a replacement in my system but GEEZ they're blinding. So I picked up some Low Intensity Reds and modded the I/O.

Be back as soon as I can.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *zefs* 
I got two Gentle Typhoon AP 15 on the rad which is placed on the drive bay as intake.


----------



## bfeng91

Quick question: if you put a gutted fan in between a fan and the rad, how do you screw the fans onto the rad?


----------



## zefs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Okay. If you have an old 120mm laying about you may gut it and try adding that in between your Pusher and the Rad. That should lower your temps better than replacing the 230 with 2 120s'.

On a side note I have to power down for some LED testing since I just switched out the lightsaber blue LEDs' in my other I/O panel. It was DOA and I have a replacement in my system but GEEZ they're blinding. So I picked up some Low Intensity Reds and modded the I/O.

Be back as soon as I can.









~Ceadder










Umm I used two cheap coolermaster fans as shrouds but didn't notice any difference? Atleast when idle. I will make a more thorough test tomorrow.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bfeng91*


Quick question: if you put a gutted fan in between a fan and the rad, how do you screw the fans onto the rad?


Not to sound like an ars.. but longer screws... you just sandwich the middle "fan
between the radiator and the actual fan.

You can sometimes find the right size at hardware stores... its been posted a few times on here the size , length and thread pitch needed. I don't recall the numbers off the top of my head... perhaps it should be added to the top post if it has not already been done.


----------



## zefs

The pump just started making a really loud buzzing sound(it wasn't that load before).
Weird...


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *zefs* 
I just replaced the HAF 932 top fan with two scythe slip stream 1900 rpm and the corsair H50 fan. I think load temps dropped quite a bit!

Aye! I did the same with the exact same fans, 1x SKJ 1900rpm "slip stream" as back exhaust and at the top to go with 1x SK S-flex 1600rpm.
I posted my temps and pics of my setup a few pages back check it out, now running drive bay intake "push/pull" with 2x San ace 70.4pa/99cfm 38x120mm fans!
Friggin awesome my load temps now, thinking about getting some Scythe UK 2000rpm to replace rear and top exhaust fans and then use the 2x SKJ and 1x S-S flex on the side panel and remove the 230mm fan which is there.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *zefs* 
The pump just started making a really loud buzzing sound(it wasn't that load before).
Weird...









oh ? Is it like a "bubbling" moving water sound? or perhaps maybe a wire has been caught in a fan or is slightly touching against some fins maybe ?


----------



## zefs

It's like when the metal synchronizes or the side window of the case hasn't closed correctly etc









Quote:



Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*

I posted my temps and pics of my setup a few pages back check it out, now running drive bay intake "push/pull" with 2x San ace 70.4pa/99cfm 38x120mm fans!


Yeah really nice temps there!


----------



## Ceadderman

They're 6-32 thread pitch and with 25mm depth per "fan" the minimum length should include the thickness of the case for the "puller" So minimum for that should be 28mm. Minimum for the "pusher" side of things should be 53mm in length.

The thing to do is to take your H50 with you when bolt shopping to make absolutely certain that the tread pitch is correct. This way you can measure the depth of the example bolt and this way you can get the best possible outcome.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
Not to sound like an ars.. but longer screws... you just sandwich the middle "fan
between the radiator and the actual fan.

You can sometimes find the right size at hardware stores... its been posted a few times on here the size , length and thread pitch needed. I don't recall the numbers off the top of my head... perhaps it should be added to the top post if it has not already been done.


----------



## GsxR1000Ryda

For those who own the h50 and the Cooler Master Storm scout case, can you please post some pictures of the two together. My h50 is on it's way + 2 Gentle Typhoon fans so I want to have an idea what the setup will look like.


----------



## imh073p

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GsxR1000Ryda* 
For those who own the h50 and the Cooler Master Storm scout case, can you please post some pictures of the two together. My h50 is on it's way + 2 Gentle Typhoon fans so I want to have an idea what the setup will look like.

I just ordered a shroud, ill repost when it is installed. I also turned the waterblock so the hoses run better after i took this pic.


----------



## Reactions

I've just realized that I've got the wrong fans for my H50 from my store







They're 800RPM, and I wanted 1850 RPM -.- ARGH! BTW: I'm just going to mount these and see though. How much higher temps am I going to get? How do I know which direction the air blows btw? Is it so that the fans blow the opposite way of their sticker (which says GentleTyphoon) or is it the same way? Please answer fast.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reactions* 
I've just realized that I've got the wrong fans for my H50 from my store







They're 800RPM, and I wanted 1850 RPM -.- ARGH! BTW: I'm just going to mount these and see though. How much higher temps am I going to get? How do I know which direction the air blows btw? Is it so that the fans blow the opposite way of their sticker (which says GentleTyphoon) or is it the same way? Please answer fast.

It blows the direction the sticker is facing. You may want to get the 1850's too btw.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah I wouldn't even mount those 800s' on the H50. Hell I think the Corsair fan has higher stock revs than that. I think that it's right around 1100 rpm. So if you DO run them run one as the puller and keep the other for a spare just in case.

~Ceadder


----------



## navit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Yeah I wouldn't even mount those 800s' on the H50. Hell I think the Corsair fan has higher stock revs than that. I think that it's right around 1100 rpm. So if you DO run them run one as the puller and keep the other for a spare just in case.

~Ceadder









The corsair stock fan is rated up to 1700 rpm


----------



## Reactions

So I should use the Corsair Stock fan as Push and one of the GentleTyphoons as pull then? And order some new ones







? And when I've got the new ones I can just use the 800RPM's as casefans.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reactions* 
So I should use the Corsair Stock fan as Push then? And order some new ones







?

I would just slap (2) GT AP-15 (1850rpm) fans around your H50 and call it a day. You'll get double the CFM.


----------



## Reactions

Yeah I'm going to do that. But it'll take some time before I get them so I wondering what to do in the meantime: Use the stock fan as push and one of the 800RPM's as pull or use both 800RPM's in Push/Pull. I can wait with overclocking until I get the 1850RPM's I just want my rig up and running


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reactions* 
Yeah I'm goign to do that. But it'll take some time before I get them so I wondering what to do in the meantime: Use the stock fan as push and one of the 800RPM's as pull or use both 800RPM's in Push/Pull. I can wait with overclocking until I get the 1850RPM's I just want my rig up and running









I think having a nearly 1000rpm (~900) difference between those two fans, you may end up damaging the one fan over time. If you dont plan on returning the 800rpm fans, I would just use those. They'll push about the same airflow (as the Corsair fan), run quieter and will do its job more efficiently than having just that single Corsair fan on it. (in my opinion)


----------



## Reactions

Ok, so I should use the 2x GT's @ 800RPM instead of one stock fan? Please answer quick people ^^


----------



## jtluongo

I have the stock fan as pull and this one push:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103063

Any modifications that I should maybe make. Are these fans good enough? What kind of improvements can I see If I made any. What does shroud do?

I attached a picture of my set-up


----------



## thisispatrick

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reactions* 
Ok, so I should use the 2x GT's @ 800RPM instead of one stock fan? Please answer quick people ^^

Correction. 1800rpm. Or 1450 is alright either, that's what I'm looking for anyways.


----------



## Reactions

No. I've got 2x 800RPM fans since I've got wrong fans from a dude in USA, but I'll just use the stock fan until I get my 1850 RPM fans.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
I would just slap (2) GT AP-15 (1850rpm) fans around your H50 and call it a day. You'll get double the CFM.

I wudnt worry just about CFM you want a good ratio of pa (static pressure) and cfm fans, I did have some SKJ 1900rpm 110 cfm, sounds good in theory, but after replacing with San ace (70.4pa/99cfm) the difference was incredible.


----------



## thisispatrick

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Reactions*


No. I've got 2x 800RPM fans since I've got wrong fans from a dude in USA, but I'll just use the stock fan until I get my 1850 RPM fans.


Try the 800's in push pull. Then compare it to the stock fan.


----------



## Reactions

I've already mounted the stock fan as intake (followed the Corsair guide), I know it wont be good for overclocking but I'll just wait until the other fans get here. I'm not in an overclocking rush, just want to get my rig up and running








EDIT: I know that the stock fan will work good enough for stock, I dont know if the 2x GT 800RPM will work good enough


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reactions* 
I've already mounted the stock fan as intake (followed the Corsair guide), I know it wont be good for overclocking but I'll just wait until the other fans get here. I'm not in an overclocking rush, just want to get my rig up and running








EDIT: I know that the stock fan will work good enough for stock, I dont know if the 2x GT 800RPM will work good enough









I can't wait to hear your results! I think you should go for at least 1800rpm fans if you are overclocking


----------



## thisispatrick

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reactions* 
I've already mounted the stock fan as intake (followed the Corsair guide), I know it wont be good for overclocking but I'll just wait until the other fans get here. I'm not in an overclocking rush, just want to get my rig up and running








*EDIT: I know that the stock fan will work good enough for stock, I dont know if the 2x GT 800RPM will work good enough







*

Yeah that's why I said give it a try anyways


----------



## half a moon

Anyone have a link to an online US store that has the best push/pull fans?

Also, do most of you have the fans on intake or exhuast?


----------



## ben h

Quote:



Originally Posted by *half a moon*


Anyone have a link to an online US store that has the best push/pull fans?

Also, do most of you have the fans on intake or exhuast?


these are wat im using seem to work good
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-048-_-Product


----------



## Ceadderman

These...

Yate Loon 120mm High Speed Silent Case Fan - D12SH-12 - Stock $3.95 - Sleeved $6.95

...you can get them with or without sleeving in your choice of color for $6.95 each or you can get them w/o sleeves for $3.00 off per.

Their 140mm fans are going in the new AX series PSUs'. That's how good they are. And you can get them in Red or Blue if you want LED fans to take the place of CCLs' so you don't have to have the little blue boxes to hide.









Oh and largely it depends on your Case. If you already have a lot of air flow (like 932 owners do) then exhaust is fine. But if you only have a limited number of 120mm fans to intake with then you'll use it in an intake role. Though some owners do intake in the 932 as well.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *half a moon*


Anyone have a link to an online US store that has the best push/pull fans?

Also, do most of you have the fans on intake or exhuast?


----------



## Emerican

Before:









After...









I got both rads, tubing, resivoir, and coolant (uv red)









A NAKED H50 RAD :3
















After looking at the two for a little bit, i noticed something a little odd....








No need to explain anything here, now i must wait for UV cathodes and new fittings. While i wait though, i get started on other things.








Took out the 180mm fans and replaced them with the 120mm rads with a push pull config.









I was happy to see a new package at my doorstep
















































Added the UV Dye









-_-









and finally!
















Red








UV








Both









This is my first real mod so tell me what you guys think!


----------



## tyuo9980

getting 35-42c with the h50 in push/pull... help?


----------



## trivium nate

i like the mod above man looks sick!!!!


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tyuo9980* 
getting 35-42c with the h50 in push/pull... help?

Need to know more than just p/p H50....what fans, intake or exhaust, ambient temperature....is the 35-42c under load or idle do you have a high OC with raised vcore?

Did you use to get lower temps and now are getting these higher temps or did you just setup the H50 and this is what your getting?

The more information you give the more help everyone can give.


----------



## Reptar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Emerican* 
Before:










Are you using the Nexus Real Silent fans? How are they? I was thinking of using them for my H50 for a push/pull.


----------



## Ceadderman

lol, dude you know the Sharkoon Golf Balls' will outcool the Nexus right?







lol

But hey if you have your heart set on the Nexus then you can tell me where to head in at.I don't mind.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Reptar*


Are you using the Nexus Real Silent fans? How are they? I was thinking of using them for my H50 for a push/pull.


----------



## dracotonisamond

blah. tomorrow i might have to either try push pull and/or blow out my system. im getting 75C peak temps running the hammer compiler which is very similar to prime in some ways.(Beats the living crap out of your cpu)

vvis and vrad compute visibility and lightmaps in maps for valve's source engine. and scale all the way to 12 threads and beyond.

or ill have to commit an act of treason and drop my oc for the summer. i hate 85-95f ambients.


----------



## ben h

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dracotonisamond*


blah. tomorrow i might have to either try push pull and/or blow out my system. im getting 75C peak temps running the hammer compiler which is very similar to prime in some ways.(Beats the living crap out of your cpu)

vvis and vrad compute visibility and lightmaps in maps for valve's source engine. and scale all the way to 12 threads and beyond.

or ill have to commit an act of treason and drop my oc for the summer. i hate 85-95f ambients.


thats y some 1 invented a/c


----------



## half a moon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ben h* 
these are wat im using seem to work good
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-048-_-Product


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
These...

Yate Loon 120mm High Speed Silent Case Fan - D12SH-12 - Stock $3.95 - Sleeved $6.95

...you can get them with or without sleeving in your choice of color for $6.95 each or you can get them w/o sleeves for $3.00 off per.

Their 140mm fans are going in the new AX series PSUs'. That's how good they are. And you can get them in Red or Blue if you want LED fans to take the place of CCLs' so you don't have to have the little blue boxes to hide.









Oh and largely it depends on your Case. If you already have a lot of air flow (like 932 owners do) then exhaust is fine. But if you only have a limited number of 120mm fans to intake with then you'll use it in an intake role. Though some owners do intake in the 932 as well.









~Ceadder









Thanks a lot.

I notice that the corsair push/pull blog suggests buying a pair of 50CFM max airflow fans. And that those you linked have 74.48 and 88.

Is there a benefit?

Also, speaking of the 932, I'm looking for a case with the best airflow since I'm not going to do water cooling beyond H50. Is that and the upcoming HAF-X the best?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *half a moon* 
Thanks a lot.

I notice that the corsair push/pull blog suggests buying a pair of 50CFM max airflow fans. And that those you linked have 74.48 and 88.

Is there a benefit?

Also, speaking of the 932, I'm looking for a case with the best airflow since I'm not going to do water cooling beyond H50. Is that and the upcoming HAF-X the best?

Usually the more cool air you can push through, the better. There are other variants to consider though, such as noise(how loud of fan do you really want) and the static pressure of the fan. The first page should give you a link to a list of various fans attempted on the H50 with their specs to help you out. I'm a big "fan" (lol pun intended) of the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (1850rpm) double ball-bearing fans. They seem to be the ones that produce the most air flow and highest static pressure for the amount of noise they make, which to me are super super quiet. Plus their fin design work great when placed directly onto a radiator.









The 2 cases that a lot of people gravitate towards are the Cooler Master HAF932/(soon the X) and the Corsair Obsidian 800D when going full water loop. There are other options out there too, but, these are the popular ones.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Emerican*


This is my first real mod so tell me what you guys think!


Oh man... that is a sweet mod.








Nice work.


----------



## Ceadderman

This.

Though I'm a big fan of the Yate Loon High Speed Silents.

Specifications:

Model: D12SH-124R
Air Flow: 88 CFM
Fan Speed: 2200 RPM
Noise Level: 40 dBA
Current: 0.30 Amps
Fan Size: 120x120x25 MM

The above are the specs for my 120s' High Speed Silents

Specifications:

Model: D14SH-124R
Air Flow: 140 CFM
Fan Speed: 2000 RPM
Noise Level: 48.5 dBA
Power: 6 watts
Fan Size: 140x140x25 MM
Connector: Includes a 3-pin motherboard power, RPM connector and a 4-pin standard power connector

And the above the specs from my 140mm exhaust fan.

As you can see the sound output from them are negligable. Cooler Masters 110 CFM 230mm fans are rated at 19 dBa. I have 3 of them in my case so combined it's not loud but they definitely aren't quiet. Adding the Yate Loons to my system with a fan controller(if need be) to dial them down to an acceptable level you should still get solid cooling and reasonable dBa levels from them. Hell if you have a High $$ GPU its fan is still going to be louder then they are in extreme FR and AA sessions.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
Usually the more cool air you can push through, the better. There are other variants to consider though, such as noise(how loud of fan do you really want) and the static pressure of the fan. The first page should give you a link to a list of various fans attempted on the H50 with their specs to help you out. I'm a big "fan" (lol pun intended) of the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (1850rpm) double ball-bearing fans. They seem to be the ones that produce the most air flow and highest static pressure for the amount of noise they make, which to me are super super quiet. Plus their fin design work great when placed directly onto a radiator.









The 2 cases that a lot of people gravitate towards are the Cooler Master HAF932/(soon the X) and the Corsair Obsidian 800D when going full water loop. There are other options out there too, but, these are the popular ones.


----------



## dirty

What would be normal temps for a stock H50 on a i7 930? The cpu is not overclocked. I'm getting temps of 38c to 42c over my four cores.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dirty* 
What would be normal temps for a stock H50 on a i7 930? The cpu is not overclocked. I'm getting temps of 38c to 42c over my four cores.

idle or load temps?


----------



## dirty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
idle or load temps?

Idle temps.


----------



## Salami991

That doesn't really tell us much, high idle temps could be due to a high ambient, load temps are what matter.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dirty* 
Idle temps.

Well what are load temps? Have you done Prime95 or LinX/Intel Burn Test?


----------



## tyuo9980

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Need to know more than just p/p H50....what fans, intake or exhaust, ambient temperature....is the 35-42c under load or idle do you have a high OC with raised vcore?

Did you use to get lower temps and now are getting these higher temps or did you just setup the H50 and this is what your getting?

The more information you give the more help everyone can give.










idle temps... i tried intake and exhaust, seems that exhaust does better.

1.35v at 4ghz. i just bought the h50 and this is what im getting.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tyuo9980*


idle temps... i tried intake and exhaust, seems that exhaust does better.

1.35v at 4ghz. i just bought the h50 and this is what im getting.


We want load temps though here... idle temps don't matter unless they are outrageous/you have a _much_ lower ambient


----------



## tyuo9980

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


We want load temps though here... idle temps don't matter unless they are outrageous/you have a _much_ lower ambient


well at 50% is what im usually at since im gaming and its the same temps as my spinq...


----------



## half a moon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Usually the more cool air you can push through, the better. There are other variants to consider though, such as noise(how loud of fan do you really want) and the static pressure of the fan. The first page should give you a link to a list of various fans attempted on the H50 with their specs to help you out. I'm a big "fan" (lol pun intended) of the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (1850rpm) double ball-bearing fans. They seem to be the ones that produce the most air flow and highest static pressure for the amount of noise they make, which to me are super super quiet. Plus their fin design work great when placed directly onto a radiator.









The 2 cases that a lot of people gravitate towards are the Cooler Master HAF932/(soon the X) and the Corsair Obsidian 800D when going full water loop. There are other options out there too, but, these are the popular ones.


Awesome, I'll check those fans out.

People that want to do water cooling gravitate toward those cases? What do air cooling peeps gravitate to?


----------



## identitycrisis

Going to install my H50 tonight.this weekend, I hope!

I have 2 Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850 RPM fans, with 2 25mm fans gutted for shrouds.

If it will reach, I am going to mount it to the top of my case through my radiator grill cover that I had when I was a custom water loop. I intend to do set it up as

Intake|shroud|RAD|shroud|Exhaust

from the top into the case.

Also, I have read that the stock tim on it is pretty good, should I just use it? or replace it with some shin etsu or something?

Thanks.


----------



## tyuo9980

Quote:



Originally Posted by *identitycrisis*


Going to install my H50 tonight.this weekend, I hope!

I have 2 Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850 RPM fans, with 2 25mm fans gutted for shrouds.

If it will reach, I am going to mount it to the top of my case through my radiator grill cover that I had when I was a custom water loop. I intend to do set it up as

Intake|shroud|RAD|shroud|Exhaust

from the top into the case.

Also, I have read that the stock tim on it is pretty good, should I just use it? or replace it with some shin etsu or something?

Thanks.


stock is shin etsu.


----------



## identitycrisis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tyuo9980*


stock is shin etsu.


Ok, cool, guess i will use it for the time being.


----------



## Ceadderman

932.









HAF= High.Air.Flow.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *half a moon*


Awesome, I'll check those fans out.

People that want to do water cooling gravitate toward those cases? What do air cooling peeps gravitate to?


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *identitycrisis*


Going to install my H50 tonight.this weekend, I hope!

I have 2 Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850 RPM fans, with 2 25mm fans gutted for shrouds.

If it will reach, I am going to mount it to the top of my case through my radiator grill cover that I had when I was a custom water loop. I intend to do set it up as

Intake|shroud|RAD|shroud|Exhaust

from the top into the case.

Also, I have read that the stock tim on it is pretty good, should I just use it? or replace it with some shin etsu or something?

Thanks.



. .







. . STOCK Tim is excellent stuff (Shin Etsu), just a bit on the thick side, but you should try and use this 
stuff first rather than scrape off and reapply something else....







{ just to note: I DO have 1 of mine setup 
as an Intake but thru the 5,25 bay area..... you can go back to page#617_post#6161 = 2 C ...







}

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## CaptnBB

I updated my mod Here. Take a look at the previous posts there as well for more pictures.


----------



## half a moon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CaptnBB* 
I updated my mod Here. Take a look at the previous posts there as well for more pictures.


I'm new to water cooling. Thinking about getting a HAF 932/X and a HD50 as a stepping stone.

1. Does using the HD50 as a plate have any limitations/compatibility issues?

2. How do you replace the tubes and get it ready?


----------



## bfeng91

I failed at putting in the H50 at first, so I needed to reseat. Currently running a stock 920 with 2 gentle typhoons... getting load temps of around 62c during prime95? normal or should I try again?

edit: had to replace the TIM with IC7


----------



## Ceadderman

How long since you replaced the TIM and how much did you use?

Looking at my TIM information it takes 6 days for IC7 to cure. So figure out when you applied it count 7 days from then and mark it on your calendar. If there still aren't any changes by then you may have used too much.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *bfeng91* 
I failed at putting in the H50 at first, so I needed to reseat. Currently running a stock 920 with 2 gentle typhoons... getting load temps of around 62c during prime95? normal or should I try again?

edit: had to replace the TIM with IC7


----------



## DQ Hero

Hey everyone, a quick question for ya. I have an H50 with push/pull CM R4's right now, but temps are still a little high. I also have a Delta AFB1212HHE i was thinking of using. 1st question is, would the delta be better then the 2 r4's? and also would it be better as an intake or exhaust for the h50? It is this Delta BTW.


----------



## RonB94GT

I just got my H50 today so please add me. Quick dumb question for now got to do some research tomorrow. for push/pull I need 2 identical fans? I have the rear fan in my HAF922 and the one that came with the H50. Is it better to buy 2 new ones or match one of the ones I have?


----------



## DQ Hero

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RonB94GT*


I just got my H50 today so please add me. Quick dumb question for now got to do some research tomorrow. for push/pull I need 2 identical fans? I have the rear fan in my HAF922 and the one that came with the H50. Is it better to buy 2 new ones or match one of the ones I have?


it is better to have matched CFM/RPM fans from what i have heard.


----------



## bfeng91

Woah 7 days? Dang I didn't know that... I put it on 36 hours ago and have been using it 24/7 lol (not at 100% though). I put like... a pea sized drop on there... I'm always terrible with gauging how much TIM I need to use


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *half a moon*


Awesome, I'll check those fans out.

People that want to do water cooling gravitate toward those cases? What do air cooling peeps gravitate to?


I'd imagine that the mid tower cases are usually more sought after by people running air coolers. You'll see lots of Storm Snipers/Scouts/HAF922/Lian Li's/ etc etc. Lots and lots of really cool options in this realm if you dont need all the extra room using a full tower for a complete water cooling loop.


----------



## dracotonisamond

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ben h*


thats y some 1 invented a/c


we have ac. but it doesn't do anything in the computer room. the pathetic thing cant push the air back into the back of the house with enough pressure to do anything...

ambients back here are a seething inferno. 95f grah!

had to drop down to 3.6GHz. i dont know what im going to do without those 400MHz









lol, there is no noticeable difference in speed for how i use my computer from 4.02 to 3.60... except 15C


----------



## DQ Hero

Well, after installing the Delta, idle temps dropped like 3-4C BUT LOAD dropped from 76C to 64C.....It is loud as hell, but i love this fan...Noise>Heat anyday...


----------



## Ceadderman

I would've answered your question but you got it wrong...

Intel--->







<---AMD

...I mean the courts DID make Intel fund AMDs' latest projects after all.









Okay and to answer your question R4s'--->







<--- single 120 cfm Delta.

Nuff said?









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *DQ Hero*


Well, after installing the Delta, idle temps dropped like 3-4C BUT LOAD dropped from 76C to 64C.....It is loud as hell, but i love this fan...Noise>Heat anyday...


----------



## DQ Hero

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I would've answered your question but you got it wrong...

Intel--->







<---AMD

...I mean the courts DID make Intel fund AMDs' latest projects after all.









Okay and to answer your question R4s'--->







<--- single 120 cfm Delta.

Nuff said?









~Ceadder










LOL

here is my new one for picking on me

Ceadder--->







<---DQ Hero

Just kidding though. Yea this delta has dropped temps so fast. They have hit 37C as a low idle now(43C was low before with R4's). i do miss that about my amd. On my 212+ with my B50 at 3.8 my idle was 19C-20C...but i lost out on performance









I so badly want to get another delta for push/pull but i think im having static pressure problems now with front 200mm as intake, 2 side 120mm r4's as intake, rear 120mm delta as intake, bottom corsair 120mm as intake, and top 200mm as EXHAUST...

...That and im affraid that adding another delta would create a black hole right above my CPU and swallow it up..


----------



## Ceadderman

lol What AMD were you running before?









I'd do Intel if they made them financially attainable without having to go second hand. Since they won't I'll go with what I can buy.

Let's put it this way I can get both MoBo and 955 BE for $370 with a free game and 6' HDMI cable right now. No way Intel can beat that.









It's okay though I may not have the best AMD CPU but I have room to grow on my Board when Bulldozer drops.







lol

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *DQ Hero*


LOL

here is my new one for picking on me

Ceadder--->







<---DQ Hero

Just kidding though. Yea this delta has dropped temps so fast. They have hit 37C as a low idle now(43C was low before with R4's). i do miss that about my amd. On my 212+ with my B50 at 3.8 my idle was 19C-20C...but i lost out on performance


----------



## DQ Hero

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


lol What AMD were you running before?









I'd do Intel if they made them financially attainable without having to go second hand. Since they won't I'll go with what I can buy.

Let's put it this way I can get both MoBo and 955 BE for $370 with a free game and 6' HDMI cable right now. No way Intel can beat that.









It's okay though I may not have the best AMD CPU but I have room to grow on my Board when Bulldozer drops.







lol

~Ceadder










i had an unlocked 550BE. My i7 CPU/MB only cost me $410...I have been a loyal fan to AMD for years. But when the X6 came out and i5's were beating it i jumped ship. i will order a new MB/CPU when Bulldozer comes out just for the hell of it.


----------



## Ceadderman

No wonder you went Intel you were cheaping it out on a 555, duh Intel is faster. Unlocked or not.







But the Thubans definitely give most Intels a run fer the money. Only three Intels are faster and NONE of them are i5.









Only reason I'm not going Thuban right now is cause 955 BE is still a solid purchase, capable of 7.1 Ghz() and Bulldozer drops in a year. Made no sense for me to go 965 since 955 is the better OC'er and is cheaper too.

When Bulldozer drops I only have to pony up for that. I'll have a solid AM3 board, RAM and GPU setup to mate it with.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *DQ Hero*


i had an unlocked 550BE. My i7 CPU/MB only cost me $410...I have been a loyal fan to AMD for years. But when the X6 came out and i5's were beating it i jumped ship. i will order a new MB/CPU when Bulldozer comes out just for the hell of it.


----------



## SM0k3

Just pick up one of these to replace my CoolerMaster N520 whilst also freeing up some space. Unfortunately I can't say I'm happy with the purchase becuase with my N520 I was getting 45-47c idle temps at stock clocks/volts(2.83ghz) and after I installed my H50 setup with Push/Pull setup I'm getting the exact same temps of 47c idle and 57c load. wth? I was actually expecting idle temps around the low to mid 30's


----------



## Inraged Twitch

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SM0k3*


Just pick up one of these to replace my CoolerMaster N520 whilst also freeing up some space. Unfortunately I can't say I'm happy with the purchase becuase with my N520 I was getting 45-47c idle temps at stock clocks/volts(2.83ghz) and after I installed my H50 setup with Push/Pull setup I'm getting the exact same temps of 47c idle and 57c load. wth? I was actually expecting idle temps around the low to mid 30's

















Did you try re-seating the heatsink a couple of times? Use different thermal paste other than what comes with it. If nothing make sure your p/p config is taking air from the back INTO the case not pushing it out.


----------



## Bodycount

*Who wants to trade me a BNIB sealed H50 for a BNIB sealed VenX? PM me if interested*


----------



## SM0k3

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Inraged Twitch* 
Did you try re-seating the heatsink a couple of times? Use different thermal paste other than what comes with it. If nothing make sure your p/p config is taking air from the back INTO the case not pushing it out.

I'll try that, by the way what is the best thermal paste to use if I decide to re-apply? I normally use Arctic Silver.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SM0k3*


I try that, by the way what is the best thermal paste to use if I decide to re-apply? I normally use Arctic Silver.


I hear good stuff on IC7


----------



## Ceadderman

The stock TIM is the best. Shin-Etsu G751 average idle temps are 37.55c. I'll have to look in my sig link to make sure on that but it's ranked numero uno. They just use too much on the heatsink is all. If you don't like the temps clean it off and reapply as directed 1/2 grain of rice size. Pea size amount is too much.









Here is the top 5 pastes, taken from the 80-way Thermal Interface link in my sig.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benchmark Reviews*


Shin-Etsu MicroSi G751 (0)Aluminum OxideModerate37.55Â°CA+
Arctic Silver 5 Polysynthetic Thermal Compound (4)Polysynthetic SilverLow / Thin37.55Â°CA+
Gelid GC-Extreme (0)Aluminum OxideLow / Thin37.65Â°CA+
Thermaltake Grease A2150 (4)Polysynthetic SilverLow / Thin37.65Â°CA+
Tuniq TX-3 (0)Aluminum OxideModerate37.65Â°CA+


~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *SM0k3*


I'll try that, by the way what is the best thermal paste to use if I decide to re-apply? I normally use Arctic Silver.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


The stock TIM is the best. Shin-Etsu G751 average idle temps are 35.57 I think. I'll have to look in my sig ling to make sure on that but it's ranked numero uno. They just use too much on the heatsink is all. If you don't like the temps clean it off and reapply as directed 1/2 grain of rice size. Pea size amount is too much.









~Ceadder










I thought that the Shin-Etsu X23-7783D was the best...


----------



## Inraged Twitch

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


The stock TIM is the best. Shin-Etsu G751 average idle temps are 35.57 I think. I'll have to look in my sig ling to make sure on that but it's ranked numero uno. They just use too much on the heatsink is all. If you don't like the temps clean it off and reapply as directed 1/2 grain of rice size. Pea size amount is too much.









~Ceadder










I got better temps with MX-2 than I did with the stock paste. Was not much better ~2c if remember correctly.


----------



## Ceadderman

I didn't compile the information just passing it along. The stock paste as I related is put on with a butter knife it seems. Obviously not bad if there is more surface contact(i.e. lapped CPU) but definitely not good with virgin chips.

MX-2 is not bad though. Just pointing out that if you're replacing the TIM and can get G751 then that's what I would use. performance-pcs.com only has quarter or half gram tubes of this stuff. I'm not exactly sure what the actual volume is I just know that they have it. I got the X23 paste thinking that was what I needed so it's too late but still mine got an A grade and is 0 day cure time as is the G751 paste.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Inraged Twitch*


I got better temps with MX-2 than I did with the stock paste. Was not much better ~2c if remember correctly.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope but it still ranked in the top 10 I think. I'd have to double check that but it got an A rating and average idle temp is a bit *under* 38c.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


I thought that the Shin-Etsu X23-7783D was the best...


----------



## Bodycount

@ Ceadderman

At the risk of started a flame war do you really need to qoute people backwards? Are you trying to be different or something?









me personally you really confuse a post/reply

@KIllhouse can you please maybe do somthing with this thread as far as a update on the 1st post in regards to push/pull and intake/exhaust and fan selection? This thread is 964 pages of the same questions and alot of users getting off topic and then back on topic with the same thing.

Its a increadible waste of much needed and expensive server space mods have not said anything as of yet that i know of but its a matter of time.

Who all has read all 964 pages?


----------



## Ceadderman

I don't see the issue. I still quote the people I reply to in order. I'm white you're blue. What's the problem? I could see if I spoke Cro-Magnon type English "Me think you n00b, ugh an think you..." without directing my replies in an ordered fashion. But it's orderly and well separated.

Sorry if you got confused but I speak to a lot of people here. You're the 3rd person to have a problem with it in 1200+ posts.

It's okay that you brought it up. I'm not hurt over it.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


@ Ceadderman

At the risk of started a flame war do you really need to qoute people backwards? Are you trying to be different or something?









me personally you really confuse a post/reply


----------



## SM0k3

Guess I'm going to have to clean the stock paste off and try something else, I just tore down my PC and re-routed some wires for better circulation and also re-seated the H50 pump and I'm still getting 46c idle maybe this is as good as it gets







. Is there a way to tell if the pump is working?, damn thing is so quiet I can't tell lol

I have it connected to Chassis fan and according to my bios it's 'spinning' at an average of 1336 rpm

And Thanks for the info Ceadderman, I guess my Arctic Silver isn't too bad to use.


----------



## Emerican

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trivium nate*


i like the mod above man looks sick!!!!


Thanks man! this is my first Real mod and it came out a lot better then i thought it would. deffinately not as easy as i thought either.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Reptar*


Are you using the Nexus Real Silent fans? How are they? I was thinking of using them for my H50 for a push/pull.


There working good for me, good flow while being silent.

and you guys were right, *THE H50 HATES HUGE AIR BUBBLES. Get enough in there, it will not function, kinda.*


----------



## Ceadderman

1336 should be fine I believe. I think that it spins faster at load temps. Did you try replacing the TIM or did you just try to reseat the stock TIM? Remember this stuff has 0 day cure time. < 8hrs time actually. So if you ran 8 hours and then tried to reseat it you're not going to see significant changes in idle temp.

So I would definitely clean the old TIM off and put fresh TIM on. But keep it spare. You should have better results with the better TIM offerings on the market. I listed the top 5 a couple posts up.









No problem I'm glad that we have it available cause TIM is one of the most confusing things we use in our systems.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *SM0k3*


Guess I'm going to have to clean the stock paste off and try something else, I just tore down my PC and re-routed some wires for better circulation and also re-seated the H50 pump and I'm still getting 46c idle maybe this is as good as it gets







. Is there a way to tell if the pump is working?, damn thing is so quiet I can't tell lol

I have it connected to Chassis fan and according to my bios it's 'spinning' at an average of 1336 rpm

And Thanks for the info Ceadderman, I guess my Arctic Silver isn't too bad to use.


----------



## SM0k3

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
1336 should be fine I believe. I think that it spins faster at load temps. Did you try replacing the TIM or did you just try to reseat the stock TIM? Remember this stuff has 0 day cure time. < 8hrs time actually. So if you ran 8 hours and then tried to reseat it you're not going to see significant changes in idle temp.

So I would definitely clean the old TIM off and put fresh TIM on. But keep it spare. You should have better results with the better TIM offerings on the market. I listed the top 5 a couple posts up.









~Ceadder










I just reseated it with the same paste, I think I'm going to go ahead and let it run over night and see what happens tomorrow. Oh and if it matters my 100% load temps are @ 60c-62c


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah, I think you're not going to see anything better I'm afraid. But at least you have AS5, so that's what I would do is pull it clean it, apply new TIM and wait for it to cure(if longer than 1 day) the appropriate amount of time and then take a look at it again.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *SM0k3*


I just reseated it with the same paste, I think I'm going to go ahead and let it run over night and see what happens tomorrow. Oh and if it matters my 100% load temps are @ 60c-62c


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I don't see the issue. I still quote the people I reply to in order. I'm white you're blue. What's the problem? I could see if I spoke Cro-Magnon type English "Me think you n00b, ugh an think you..." without directing my replies in an ordered fashion. But it's orderly and well separated.

Sorry if you got confused but I speak to a lot of people here. You're the 3rd person to have a problem with it in 1200+ posts.

It's okay that you brought it up. I'm not hurt over it.









~Ceadder










Ok good lets start a flame war "DONKEY" since im not the 1st that said something about your qouting and you calling me a noob mr.2010

You really want to start some horsepoo with me lets go PM and i will make you feel stupid with your knowlage of the H50 and AMD/Intel for that matter

I guess i got you in a bad mood or your just a smartA$$ that knows it all but how much time do you have on the phone and time with the H50 and the techs?

Oh i cant wait

If i post my findings here i will get flamed from junkies like you that belive it its a godly product and interurpt people the have the acutal facts

Bring it! i have 1st hand knowlage i dont post just to hear myself speak

Nuff said...... or maybe not
See the fact is if i say omg my H50 leaked none of you want to hear it but its a fact.
The epitome of only hearing what you want to hear its ok i will keep it to myself

Did you read all 965 pages or jump in 3/4 of the way and say hey i'm a pro?

Killhouse please do something with the thread same stuff everyday bud its a great thread but can be summed up on the very 1st page


----------



## Ceadderman

What are you going on about?

I didn't start anything and to be honest I was quite amicable. I think you misinterpreted what I said.

I was saying don't worry about not wanting to start a flame war because there was nothing to get in a flame war about.

You brought up your opinion on how I post. You're entitled. It's your OPINION.

Did I call you a name? If I did well I apologize. I'm just saying that in 1200+ posts you're the 3rd person to ever bring it up. So take that for what it's worth.

And "knows it all"? Where'd THAT come from? I know what the specs are. I know what specs the TIM is cause ummm, _I have the information in my sig_. and because I do a lot of RESEARCH. Also young man, I'm 41. So I should keep my mouth(in this case fingers) shut so you can feel all warm and fuzzy inside?

I think you should check your attitude at the door the next time you reply cause I'm not stupid, I'm no n00b and I don't take crap either. I will get the mods involved if it comes to that. But I choose to handle things in a polite manner first. So if I'm wrong be polite and explain where I'm wrong.

If I'm right then kindly S.T.F.U. and leave me be. Thanks.









*Edit*Ohhhhhh I see you took the quoted Cro-Magnon speak as me calling you a n00b? I take it you don't read much? Or at least nothing that has dialogue in it?









Let me set the record straight. That was posted as an EXAMPLE. That was not me calling YOU a n00b. That was me clarifying what Cro-Magnon speak is. Understand?









I'm OCD. I have Aspergers to be exact. So you can TRY to tear me down. But to what avail? You should have just let it slide if you didn't understand what I was saying. I mean you did say you didn't wish to start a flame war but then got offended over the word "n00b"? How old are you,10? Ttyl.







Or not.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Ok good lets start a flame war "DONKEY" since im not the 1st that said something about your qouting and you calling me a newb mr.2010

You really want to start some horsepoo with me lets go PM and i will make you feel stupid with your knowlage of the H50

I guess i got you in a bad mood or your just a smartA$$ the knows it all but how much time do you have on the phone and time with the H50 and the techs?

Oh i cant wait

If i post my findings here i will get flamed from junkies like you that belive it its a godly product and interurpt people the have the acutal facts

Bring it! i have 1st hand knowlage i dont post just to hear myself speak

Nuff said...... or maybe not
See the fact if i say omg my H50 leaked none of you want to hear it but its a fact.
The epitome of only hearing what you want to hear its ok i will keep it to myself

Did you read all 965 pages or jump in 3/4 of the way and say hey i'm a pro?

Killhouse please do something with the thread same stuff everyday bud


----------



## Willhemmens

Bodycount, I'd be careful if I were you. Ceadderman has a wide knowledge about cooling and the H50. Your looking at getting an infraction.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


You really want to start some horsepoo with me lets go PM and i will make you feel stupid with your knowlage of the H50 and AMD/Intel for that matter


If you want to be made to feel stupid, regarding the H50, give me a PM.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Bodycount, I'd be careful if I were you. Ceadderman has a wide knowledge about cooling and the H50. Your looking at getting an infraction.

If you want to be made to feel stupid, regarding the H50, give me a PM.

Laugh my butt off

Thats fine with me i have 1st hand info from Corsair themselves i care not

Anyone else want to show there ignorance on this one?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
*****

Hmm?


----------



## Gnomepatrol

well mines making noise and its kinda annoying since its the loudest thing in my case








YouTube- Corsair H50 Noise
sounds exactly like this guys guess i have to rma........


----------



## Prugor

Sure got lame in here.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gnomepatrol* 
well mines making noise and its kinda annoying since its the loudest thing in my case

YouTube- Corsair H50 Noise

sounds exactly like this guys guess i have to rma........

Thats the pump by the sounds of things. Have you tried moving the case around, like tilting the whole case side to side to see if any the air comes out of the pump?


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Prugor* 
Sure got lame in here.

yes at page #102


----------



## Gnomepatrol

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Thats the pump by the sounds of things. Have you tried moving the case around, like tilting the whole case side to side to see if any the air comes out of the pump?

ill try it right now


----------



## Gnomepatrol

didnt help still makes that buzzing


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Prugor* 
Sure got lame in here.

I'm sorry i feel the same

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Hmm?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Bodycount, I'd be careful if I were you. Ceadderman has a wide knowledge about cooling and the H50. Your looking at getting an infraction.

LOL What? has he been talking with the Corsair techs for a month and a half?
OK then...

If you want to be made to feel stupid, regarding the H50, give me a PM.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Prugor* 
Sure got lame in here.

After over 9500 posts? Thats good going.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gnomepatrol* 
didnt help still makes that buzzing

Check the pumps RPM. It should be running at around 1400 RPM. If you cant fix the issue by just shacking the H50's pump unit, I'd take it back as it doesnt sound right at all.


----------



## Ceadderman

So do I.

The difference is I'm not being a little Tool about it and you are. Se la vie, ke sera sera.

This is what you have for mounting...








YouTube- How to install the Corsair Coolingâ„¢ Hydro Series H50 CPU cooler
Wow I see now. I can't modify my setup at all.









Dude if this thread is Lame it's only cause you came in here with your little Hitler act and tried to tell everyone how the cow eats the cabbage.

Get along now and get bent. I've got no more time for your childishness. Don't PM me again. If you can't talk to me here don't talk to me at all.

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
Laugh my butt off

Thats fine with me i have 1st hand info from Corsair themselves i care not

Anyone else want to show there ignorance on this one?


----------



## Ceadderman

Was that pump JUST installed? Sounds like it has some air trapped in it and needs to be tapped with a light object such as a pen or unsharpened pencil at the pump fittings to get the air deposit to break free and up to the Rad.

I mean it's not loud but it must be disconcerting to deal with.

And thanks for the good word.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Check the pumps RPM. It should be running at around 1400 RPM. If you cant fix the issue by just shacking the H50's pump unit, I'd take it back as it doesnt sound right at all.


----------



## ben h

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
After over 9500 posts? Thats good going.


me and like 5 other ppl have gotten 4k posts in under a month in 1 thread
soo ya
not on this forum tho


----------



## Gnomepatrol

late will try the pen tapping tomorrow morning thanks all ofr the help hopefully it'll work out


----------



## Bodycount

Willhemmens said:


> After over 9500 posts? Thats good going.
> 
> when its the same topic over and over and over again. No its not.
> its 1st page stuff. how many post of those 9500 have you read? I'm not trying to start anything here and when i have a H50 urinating all over my system stock "Not modified in any way" if i voice my opinion in this thread
> "the proper thread everyone jumps my butt" well its ok if you don't wanrt My experiance its ok i'm the one fighting for my system not you. I'm just want to give relivent info to help but if know one wants to hear it ok deal with it'


----------



## Gnomepatrol

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Was that pump JUST installed? Sounds like it has some air trapped in it and needs to be tapped with a light object such as a pen or unsharpened pencil at the pump fittings to get the air deposit to break free and up to the Rad.

I mean it's not loud but it must be disconcerting to deal with.

And thanks for the good word.









~Ceadder









i love you i did it now anyway heard a woosh when i did it and
noise is gone you are a god
+REP to you sir on awesome advice


----------



## Ceadderman

I'm glad that worked for you.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gnomepatrol* 
i love you i did it now anyway heard a woosh when i did it and
noise is gone you are a god
+REP to you sir on awesome advice


----------



## Bodycount

I'm a loyal member of this site for more than 3 and 1/2 years mods please contact me if i'm breaking TOS. i think some members need to be corrected

I'am here to help not corrode


----------



## Ceadderman

Dude go get a prescription for some Prozac filled. Seriously.

You've been a member for 3 1/2 years.









So when a simple problem like AIR IN THE LINE comes up you can't relay a simple fix?

I don't care if you been posting here 10 years or 10 days. Your attitude SUCKS.

I've got an excuse though. I suffer from Aspergers and I'm Irish. But I still treat people with respect. You don't, so why do you get to ride roughshod over everyone here? What's your excuse? Come on, out with it. Enquiring minds would like to know.









I'm sorry your H50 leaked. If there was any other way of dealing with it besides RMA, I would have tried to figure it out and relayed it to you. Nobody here is on their own if they have an issue. That's why this club was set up I imagine. It's why I like this thread and why I spend time here talking about my favorite cooler.

You know if you would just chill out people'd get along with you better I imagine.

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
I'm a loyal member of this site for more than 3 and 1/2 years mods please contact me if i'm breaking TOS. i think some members need to be corrected


----------



## Bodycount

UN'Subed thanks Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Dude go get a prescription for some Prozac filled. Seriously.

You've been a member for 3 1/2 years.









So when a simple problem like AIR IN THE LINE comes up you can't relay a simple fix?

I don't care if you been posting here 10 years or 10 days. Your attitude SUCKS.

I've got an excuse though. I suffer from Aspergers and I'm Irish. But I still treat people with respect. You don't, so why do you get to ride roughshod over everyone here? What's your excuse? Come on, out with it. Enquiring minds would like to know.









I'm sorry your H50 leaked. If there was any other way of dealing with it besides RMA, I would have tried to figure it out and relayed it to you. Nobody here is on their own if they have an issue. That's why this club was set up I imagine. It's why I like this thread and why I spend time here talking about my favorite cooler.

You know if you would just chill out people'd get along with you better I imagine.

~Ceadder


----------



## kcuestag

What do you guys think about these temperatures:

Corsair H50 + x2 Noiseblocker MF12-P (Usually lowered RPM's to 1000 with a rehobus)

965 BE C3 @ 3.8GHz with 1.372v

Iddle: 33ÂºC-34ÂºC
Full: 46ÂºC-47ÂºC

Do you think they're good or too high? Taking into consideration that the inside temperature of my HAF 932 (According to my rehobus' temp sensor) is 27ÂºC.

Thank you,
Kevin.


----------



## Ceadderman

Idle is solid.









I'm wondering if Full throttle is correct.









I apologize for not having any more info but I don't read any other languages besides a little Spanish and my Algebra is rotten so I'm not good with M3/h to covert to CFM.

Sorry.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


What do you guys think about these temperatures:

Corsair H50 + x2 Noiseblocker MF12-P (Usually lowered RPM's to 1000 with a rehobus)

965 BE C3 @ 3.8GHz with 1.372v

Iddle: 33ÂºC-34ÂºC
Full: 46ÂºC-47ÂºC

Do you think they're good or too high? Taking into consideration that the inside temperature of my HAF 932 (According to my rehobus' temp sensor) is 27ÂºC.

Thank you,
Kevin.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Idle is solid.









I'm wondering if Full throttle is correct.









I apologize for not having any more info but I don't read any other languages besides a little Spanish and my Algebra is rotten so I'm not good with M3/h to covert to CFM.

Sorry.









~Ceadder










What do you mean by full throttle?

Of course if I put the fans @ full 1800rpm the temps decrease by almost 4ÂºC on full hehe.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ah, my apologies I meant at Load.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


What do you mean by full throttle?

Of course if I put the fans @ full 1800rpm the temps decrease by almost 4ÂºC on full hehe.


----------



## kcuestag

I did realise that after the "summer" has arrived here in Germany (I add quotation marks because it's not really what I call summer, but it went from an average of 15ÂºC to an average of 25-26ÂºC) the temps raised up quite a lot, and my room is sometimes a damn oven, so sometimes I need to stop Folding or else I'll burn my self in the room lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


I did realise that after the "summer" has arrived here in Germany (I add quotation marks because it's not really what I call summer, but it went from an average of 15ÂºC to an average of 25-26ÂºC) the temps raised up quite a lot, and my room is sometimes a damn oven, so sometimes I need to stop Folding or else I'll burn my self in the room lol.


Yeah not very "summerish" here either. Normally it gets hot here in this apartment during the summer.









~Ceadder


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Yeah not very "summerish" here either. Normally it gets hot here in this apartment during the summer.









~Ceadder










I would prefer to stay at 25ÂºC for whole summer







Although I am going back to my country (Spain) for summer holidays (Too bad I can't bring my deskop, so I need to stick with the laptop again >.<) and there average temp is 40-44ÂºC on summer, if you don't have A/C in your room using PS3 or PC is not a good idea lol.


----------



## BubbleFighter

People who have modded their h50, can they confirm that it is safe? (Example: pump not dying or any gradual damage to any of the components)


----------



## sebastianTR

and finaly i found a H50








maybe i m searching 20 days maybe more
but finaly i found one, i hope its worth









picture a little low quality, damn it iphone


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


I would prefer to stay at 25ÂºC for whole summer







Although I am going back to my country (Spain) for summer holidays (Too bad I can't bring my deskop, so I need to stick with the laptop again >.<) and there average temp is 40-44ÂºC on summer, if you don't have A/C in your room using PS3 or PC is not a good idea lol.


Your temps sound just about right too me, considering ambient and fan's used.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BubbleFighter*


People who have modded their h50, can they confirm that it is safe? (Example: pump not dying or any gradual damage to any of the components)


Its safe if done correctly. The pump wont die any faster nor will it cause any more wear to any other component. Also, if you add a lower restiction rad you will make the pump last longer if anything as theres less stress on it. If you add restrition to the loop like more blocks the pump might not last quite aslong but I'm sure it will still last a good few years.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Your temps sound just about right too me, considering ambient and fan's used.










What you mean by fans used, they're great fans


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


What you mean by fans used, they're great fans










They're great fans but they are only at 1000 RPM. When I ran a H50 I had twin 3000 RPM fans running. Just saying that if faster fans were used of you set your fans to a higher speed you temps may drop, as you have experienced.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


They're great fans but they are only at 1000 RPM. When I ran a H50 I had twin 3000 RPM fans running. Just saying that if faster fans were used of you set your fans to a higher speed you temps may drop, as you have experienced.


Yeah when I am gaming with my G35 headset I just put them on max 2000rpm


----------



## xisintheend

I think I have a problem with my H50 install. I installed this thing last night and my temps went from 30C idle to 35C idle, and from 45C full load to 57C full load switching over from a dark knight. Does anybody have any ideas as what this could be??


----------



## superhead91

Ok, so I just got an H50 and two 38mm Scythe Ultra Kazes to set up a push/pull. Any ideas on how to attach the fans? I'd like to use screws over zip-ties if possible. Also, I have a HAF 932 and I was wondering what the best way to mount the rad and fans in the drive bays was.


----------



## Ceadderman

How many fans did you have in your system prior to installation, where are they at and what is each of their jobs. This will help us determine your static pressure prior to installation by giving us a baseline.

Where did you locate the Rad and how did you set it up? Intake or exhaust. Are the fittings located at the top, bottom or side of your setup.

Is your pump making any noise?

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *xisintheend* 
I think I have a problem with my H50 install. I installed this thing last night and my temps went from 30C idle to 35C idle, and from 45C full load to 57C full load switching over from a dark knight. Does anybody have any ideas as what this could be??


----------



## Ceadderman

Well you'll need 6-32 pitch bolts the same exact length as the included bolts to mount the second fan if you don't use a shroud. If you use a shroud they have to be longer.

If you intend to use a shroud I suggest a gutted 120mm fan as your shroud to keep the footprint the same as the Pusher or Puller. Measure both fan and shroud together and get bolts according to your measurement + the measurement of the extended length past the housing of an unmounted fanbolt in the housing.

You may have to buy longer than intended and modify them to fit. Just make sure to clean up the threads with a die tool or a proper rasp file before trying to mate it to the mounting holes or you could punch into your Rad and cause a mess. And remember not to force them into the holes.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


Ok, so I just got an H50 and two 38mm Scythe Ultra Kazes to set up a push/pull. Any ideas on how to attach the fans? I'd like to use screws over zip-ties if possible. Also, I have a HAF 932 and I was wondering what the best way to mount the rad and fans in the drive bays was.


----------



## xisintheend

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
How many fans did you have in your system prior to installation, where are they at and what is each of their jobs. This will help us determine your static pressure prior to installation by giving us a baseline.

Where did you locate the Rad and how did you set it up? Intake or exhaust. Are the fittings located at the top, bottom or side of your setup.

Is your pump making any noise?

~Ceadder









I had all the stock fans in the CM 690 II.

I installed the Corsair fan blowing air inside where the stock fan on the case was and I put the radiator on it with the fittings on the bottom. I feel its weird to take the air inside, but it doesn't make sense to put the fan blowing out where it doesn't blow over the radiator.

The pump isn't making much noise as it seems quiet, but I did hear the water start running when I turned it on the first time.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hmmm









I forgot to ask how long you've had it in your system, where are the pump fittings(6 o'clock position, 12 o'clock?) and again where are the fittings of the Radiator (top bottom side?), it may just come down to having to reseat the plate so it gets better contact with the CPU.

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *xisintheend* 
I had all the stock fans in the CM 690 II.

I installed the Corsair fan blowing air inside where the stock fan on the case was and I put the radiator on it with the fittings on the bottom. I feel its weird to take the air inside, but it doesn't make sense to put the fan blowing out where it doesn't blow over the radiator.

The pump isn't making much noise as it seems quiet, but I did hear the water start running when I turned it on the first time.


----------



## xisintheend

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Hmmm









I forgot to ask how long you've had it in your system, where are the pump fittings(6 o'clock position, 12 o'clock?) and again where are the fittings of the Radiator (top bottom side?), it may just come down to having to reseat the plate so it gets better contact with the CPU.

~Ceadder











It has been in there for about 14 hours now.

The fittings on the pump are in the 6-oclock position, and on the radiator at 6 o clock as well.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Well you'll need 6-32 pitch bolts the same exact length as the included bolts to mount the second fan if you don't use a shroud. If you use a shroud they have to be longer.

If you intend to use a shroud I suggest a gutted 120mm fan as your shroud to keep the footprint the same as the Pusher or Puller. Measure both fan and shroud together and get bolts according to your measurement + the measurement of the extended length past the housing of an unmounted fanbolt in the housing.

You may have to buy longer than intended and modify them to fit. Just make sure to clean up the threads with a die tool or a proper rasp file before trying to mate it to the mounting holes or you could punch into your Rad and cause a mess. And remember not to force them into the holes.

~Ceadder










I'm pretty new to all this stuff and I keep seeing stuff about shrouds but I'm having a hard time finding stuff about them. I think I get the basic idea of them but how much do they really help? If I were to put 25mm shrouds in between my rad and my fans, would the screws that came with the H50 be long enough for both if I put them through the hole in the fan closer to the rad and then through the shroud and into the rad?

Also, if I did get shrouds, where can I get them? I don't have any extra 120mm fans and I'm not exactly a master craftsmen, so I don't know how the whole gutting process would turn out.


----------



## thisispatrick

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


I'm pretty new to all this stuff and I keep seeing stuff about shrouds but I'm having a hard time finding stuff about them. *I think I get the basic idea of them but how much do they really help? If I were to put 25mm shrouds in between my rad and my fans, would the screws that came with the H50 be long enough for both if I put them through the hole in the fan closer to the rad and then through the shroud and into the rad?*

Also, if I did get shrouds, *where can I get them?* I don't have any extra 120mm fans and I'm not exactly a master craftsmen, so I don't know how the whole gutting process would turn out.


They help a bit.
Nope.
Buy cheap 120mm fans online. You don't have to be a master craftsmen. Its not really that hard to gut a fan.


----------



## superhead91

What length screws will work?


----------



## thisispatrick

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


What length screws will work?


The screw size is 6-32 and for the length you're going to have to measure for yourself because it depends on you.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thisispatrick*


The screw size is 6-32 and for the length you're going to have to measure for yourself because it depends on the size of the fans and shrouds and where you mount it what size you will need.


Fixed


----------



## Ceadderman

Are your hoses more arced or kinked? Sometime if you try to fit the Rad to a barely reachable spot it puts negative pressure on the lines and re-tar-ds the intended performance.

Actually if you could get a pic of your setup that would be even more helpful.

14 hours should be more than enough time for the stock paste to cure. But if you reseat the pump you'll have to start over with fresh paste. So let's try everything else first unless you have as good as the stock TIM which is ranked #1. You can see the results from testing 80 different TIMs' in my sig.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *xisintheend* 
It has been in there for about 14 hours now.

The fittings on the pump are in the 6-oclock position, and on the radiator at 6 o clock as well.


----------



## Gnomepatrol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


Ok, so I just got an H50 and two 38mm Scythe Ultra Kazes to set up a push/pull. Any ideas on how to attach the fans? I'd like to use screws over zip-ties if possible. Also, I have a HAF 932 and I was wondering what the best way to mount the rad and fans in the drive bays was.


Idk if anyone has thought of this before but i actually used the bolts that came with the h50 for the push fan and radiator mounted as an intake then used thumbscrews to secure the pull fan (i used the thumbscrews that came with my antec 300 but I'm sure others would work just the same) just a suggestion


----------



## Ceadderman

Can you get a pic of what you did cause I would be interested to see that.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gnomepatrol*


Idk if anyone has thought of this before but i actually used the bolts that came with the h50 for the push fan and radiator mounted as an intake then used thumbscrews to secure the pull fan (i used the thumbscrews that came with my antec 300 but I'm sure others would work just the same) just a suggestion


----------



## xisintheend

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Are your hoses more arced or kinked? Sometime if you try to fit the Rad to a barely reachable spot it puts negative pressure on the lines and re-tar-ds the intended performance.

Actually if you could get a pic of your setup that would be even more helpful.

14 hours should be more than enough time for the stock paste to cure. But if you reseat the pump you'll have to start over with fresh paste. So let's try everything else first unless you have as good as the stock TIM which is ranked #1. You can see the results from testing 80 different TIMs' in my sig.









~Ceadder









Thank You for all of the information so far.
I ended up reseating and reapplying MX2 before I saw this, and I also changed the radiator so that the fittings are on top (12 o'clock) position.
Temps have dropped on idle so far and it seems like I forgot to turn turbo boost off on my new motherboard, which I also put in at the same time as the h50. So it bumps the cpu speed from 2800 to 3200 and increases the voltage, which is probably why I am getting the outrageous temps.

I will play with it tomorrow and see what I can do.


----------



## Ceadderman

I wouldn't say they were outrageous per se. But it's nice to know that the H50 will keep things stable when OC'ing.









I'd flip the Rad to 6 o'clock however. Air can build up at the top and impact the cooling efficiency of the H50.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *xisintheend* 
Thank You for all of the information so far.
I ended up reseating and reapplying MX2 before I saw this, and I also changed the radiator so that the fittings are on top (12 o'clock) position.
Temps have dropped on idle so far and it seems like I forgot to turn turbo boost off on my new motherboard, which I also put in at the same time as the h50. So it bumps the cpu speed from 2800 to 3200 and increases the voltage, which is probably why I am getting the outrageous temps.

I will play with it tomorrow and see what I can do.


----------



## ocman

How good is 33C CPU idle temp sound for E5200 R0 running at 4GHz with H-50 stock fan doing air push out?


----------



## SM0k3

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ocman* 
How good is 33C CPU idle temp sound for E5200 R0 running at 4GHz with H-50 stock fan doing air push out?

I envy your idle temp, I just installed another push fan on my radiator today for a total of 2 push and 1 pull in hope to get my idle in the 30's and I'm still @ 42c-44c.


----------



## ocman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SM0k3*


I envy your idle temp, I just installed another push fan on my radiator today for a total of 2 push and 1 pull in hope to get my idle in the 30's and I'm still @ 42c-44c.










Thanks SM0k3, my room temp is @ 26.5C now...and when my room was @ 22C, CPU idle temp was lower by 2-4C... the best I recall was 29C. When operating @ stock speed 2.5GHz, the best was 26C idle... I heard ppl even had 23-24C somehow... don't know how they do it.

Btw, I read somewhere online a university lab assignment with graphs (if i recalled correctly) show airflow is more than twice when fans are installed side by side compared to single fan config, while stacked fans' resistance is twice as high as single fan's but airflow is around the same.

P.S. I do have 5 120mm CoolerMaster case fans (company claimed to do 90CFM) installed. 3 air in (2 side and 1 front), 2 air out (top).


----------



## ocman

Talking about getting a really good and cheap 3rd party CPU cooler when I build my current E5200 computer, I've almost considered getting one from Ultra's or CoolIT's... thinking back... I'm glad that I've researched for a bit longer and found H-50.


----------



## bfeng91

Okay, so I come hat in hand, looking for some sage advice. I've nearly read through all 970 of these pages and tried most everything.

My H50 is properly installed, no kinks, fittings on the bottom, in push/pull exhaust with 2 gentle typhoon 1850rpm's (they're not pointing towards each other for sure). Stock i7-920, no turboboost, still manages to get up to 60+C running Prime95 small fft. I've reseated this thing 4 times, using IC7, allowing 3 hours to cure. However, every time I reseat, the temps basically stay the same, hovering at around 60C. Help?









CPU Voltage: 1.225
DRAM Bus Voltage: 1.66
QPI/DRM Core Voltage: 1.35

This is my first reseat picture of how much IC7 was on there:









Here's a pic of the H50 - sorry for bad quality


----------



## zefs

Why is it upside down(the pump)?
Have you tried the other way?(Corsair logo looking up)

If you have done everything correctly maybe your unit is defective(or the pump doesn't get enough power)
What are your ambient temps?


----------



## bfeng91

My ambient temps are around 25C, and yes I've tried orienting the pump the other way. It's a really tight fit, as the hoses are so close. Should I do flip it back around? I've only had the pump right-side-up when the fittings were at the top.

My pump is operating at around 1400rpm too, according to everest and HWmonitor.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bfeng91*


Okay, so I come hat in hand, looking for some sage advice. I've nearly read through all 970 of these pages and tried most everything.

My H50 is properly installed, no kinks, fittings on the bottom, in push/pull exhaust with 2 gentle typhoon 1850rpm's (they're not pointing towards each other for sure). Stock i7-920, no turboboost, still manages to get up to 60+C running Prime95 small fft. I've reseated this thing 4 times, using IC7, allowing 3 hours to cure. However, every time I reseat, the temps basically stay the same, hovering at around 60C. Help?








CPU Voltage: 1.225
DRAM Bus Voltage: 1.66
QPI/DRM Core Voltage: 1.35
This is my first reseat picture of how much IC7 was on there:
Here's a pic of the H50 - sorry for bad quality


60C isn't bad by far on a I7 chip if you see people posting lower temps specially in the 40's to 50's range those are probably AMD PII chips. It is safe to run I7's up to the 90C range so 60C sounds fine to me.


----------



## Ceadderman

Two things.

First maybe putting your 140 back and moving your Rad to the top of the case or as an intake in the bays is better for you.

2nd exactly how long are you letting your system sit in the off position before firing it up.

IC7 is a (10-minute evaporation time, 2-hour curing recommended) TIM, in my information.

Also as has been frequently mentioned throughout this thread Ambients play a big part in overall temp.

Okay, 25c ambients. Leave your pump alone. Not the problem imho, unless it's defective. Try different spots for your Rad in both intake and exhaust. I'm assuming of course that you went Intake on the back and not Exhaust and I think that it played havoc with your static pressure.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *bfeng91*


Okay, so I come hat in hand, looking for some sage advice. I've nearly read through all 970 of these pages and tried most everything.

My H50 is properly installed, no kinks, fittings on the bottom, in push/pull exhaust with 2 gentle typhoon 1850rpm's (they're not pointing towards each other for sure). Stock i7-920, no turboboost, still manages to get up to 60+C running Prime95 small fft. I've reseated this thing 4 times, using IC7, allowing 3 hours to cure. However, every time I reseat, the temps basically stay the same, hovering at around 60C. Help?









CPU Voltage: 1.225
DRAM Bus Voltage: 1.66
QPI/DRM Core Voltage: 1.35

This is my first reseat picture of how much IC7 was on there:









Here's a pic of the H50 - sorry for bad quality


----------



## kitekrazy

It seems that the H50 and Thermaltake mid towers don't mix.

I was going to install it in this http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...044&CatId=1509

Unfortunately the radiator is taller than the rear fan so it won't fit. My only option is to try to mount it on the top but I can't fit the fan or radiator because the RAM clamps are in the way. So I ordered some Scythe slim fans. It may be possible to to do a push pull from the top.

It didn't work in my Thermaltake Wings RS because there are no holes in the back to mount a 120 mm fan. A 120 mm fan is actually mounted to an adapter.

So I have an $80 piece of hardware sitting around.

Both Thermaltake cases have systems running Black Edition AMDs. I don't mind replacing the Wings RS.

I only want to spend $50 on another case. There is no list of compatible or incompatible cases for the H50.

So this is the list http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...:1842|&Sort=4#

If anyone knows if these cases work let me know. I'm within driving distance of Tiger Direct. You will be doing me a great service.


----------



## bfeng91

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Two things.

First maybe putting your 140 back and moving your Rad to the top of the case or as an intake in the bays is better for you.

2nd exactly how long are you letting your system sit in the off position before firing it up.

IC7 is a (10-minute evaporation time, 2-hour curing recommended) TIM, in my information.

Also as has been frequently mentioned throughout this thread Ambients play a big part in overall temp.

~Ceadder









I will try putting the 140 back/moving rad to the top later today.

My system stays in the off position for about 2 minutes - I'm assuming this should be longer? And I run prime95 and then look at temps in RealTemp.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kitekrazy* 
It seems that the H50 and Thermaltake mid towers don't mix.

I was going to install it in this http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...044&CatId=1509

Unfortunately the radiator is taller than the rear fan so it won't fit. My only option is to try to mount it on the top but I can't fit the fan or radiator because the RAM clamps are in the way. So I ordered some Scythe slim fans. It may be possible to to do a push pull from the top.

It didn't work in my Thermaltake Wings RS because there are no holes in the back to mount a 120 mm fan. A 120 mm fan is actually mounted to an adapter.

So I have an $80 piece of hardware sitting around.

Both Thermaltake cases have systems running Black Edition AMDs. I don't mind replacing the Wings RS.

I only want to spend $50 on another case. There is no list of compatible or incompatible cases for the H50.

So this is the list http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...:1842|&Sort=4#

If anyone knows if these cases work let me know. I'm within driving distance of Tiger Direct. You will be doing me a great service.

mount the fan between the back panel of the case and the radiator. I couldnt mount the rad directly to the back of my 922. I had to sandwich the fan between the back and the rad, or use a shroud (you can also make a shroud from a 120mm fan if you dont have one)


----------



## Ceadderman

Try this case...

NZXT BETA EVO Classic Series Mid-Tower Case

The 120mm grills are directly overhead of the CPU and should allow you to top mount the H50.

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *kitekrazy* 
It seems that the H50 and Thermaltake mid towers don't mix.

I was going to install it in this http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...044&CatId=1509

Unfortunately the radiator is taller than the rear fan so it won't fit. My only option is to try to mount it on the top but I can't fit the fan or radiator because the RAM clamps are in the way. So I ordered some Scythe slim fans. It may be possible to to do a push pull from the top.

It didn't work in my Thermaltake Wings RS because there are no holes in the back to mount a 120 mm fan. A 120 mm fan is actually mounted to an adapter.

So I have an $80 piece of hardware sitting around.

Both Thermaltake cases have systems running Black Edition AMDs. I don't mind replacing the Wings RS.

I only want to spend $50 on another case. There is no list of compatible or incompatible cases for the H50.

So this is the list http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...:1842|&Sort=4#

If anyone knows if these cases work let me know. I'm within driving distance of Tiger Direct. You will be doing me a great service.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bfeng91* 
Okay, so I come hat in hand, looking for some sage advice. I've nearly read through all 970 of these pages and tried most everything.

My H50 is properly installed, no kinks, fittings on the bottom, in push/pull exhaust with 2 gentle typhoon 1850rpm's (they're not pointing towards each other for sure). Stock i7-920, no turboboost, still manages to get up to 60+C running Prime95 small fft. I've reseated this thing 4 times, using IC7, allowing 3 hours to cure. However, every time I reseat, the temps basically stay the same, hovering at around 60C. Help?









CPU Voltage: 1.225
DRAM Bus Voltage: 1.66
QPI/DRM Core Voltage: 1.35

This is my first reseat picture of how much IC7 was on there:









Here's a pic of the H50 - sorry for bad quality









For some reason, (and this may be due to diff i7 chips) but your cpu voltage, (1.225) is alot higher than mine was at stock, I was on 1.144v and have been able to stay at that for my 3.66 overclock. Have you changed the voltage by mistake while setting up bios settings etc, perhaps it is indeed a little high for the stock clock of 2.66 thus resulting in higher temps.
just my 2 cents


----------



## Ceadderman

I would let the system set for the 2 hour time and then fire it up as normal and go 2 more hours to see what that gets for temps.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *bfeng91* 
I will try putting the 140 back/moving rad to the top later today.

My system stays in the off position for about 2 minutes - I'm assuming this should be longer? And I run prime95 and then look at temps in RealTemp.


----------



## bfeng91

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd* 
For some reason, (and this may be due to diff i7 chips) but your cpu voltage, (1.225) is alot higher than mine was at stock, I was on 1.144v and have been able to stay at that for my 3.66 overclock. Have you changed the voltage by mistake while setting up bios settings etc, perhaps it is indeed a little high for the stock clock of 2.66 thus resulting in higher temps.
just my 2 cents









No, I didn't tweak anything in the BIOS except to turn SpeedStep off and to make sure my pump was running at 100% power. I'll try undervolting it perhaps?


----------



## Ceadderman

Don't undervolt it. Corsair was pretty adamant that the Pump be plugged in at the CPU cooler. Undervolting it will change the pump speed. Which you don't want to do.

Save that as last resort if you've got your mind set to do it.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *bfeng91* 
No, I didn't tweak anything in the BIOS except to turn SpeedStep off and to make sure my pump was running at 100% power. I'll try undervolting it perhaps?


----------



## kitekrazy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Try this case...

NZXT BETA EVO Classic Series Mid-Tower Case

The 120mm grills are directly overhead of the CPU and should allow you to top mount the H50.

~Ceadder










Ohh looks like an excellent choice! Looks like you could mount the H50 anywhere.


----------



## Looski

when installing the radiator, does it matter if the tubes are on the top or bottom.

I'm installing mine as we speak and was wondering if I have to take it out and turn it around


----------



## kitekrazy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ez12a*


mount the fan between the back panel of the case and the radiator. I couldnt mount the rad directly to the back of my 922. I had to sandwich the fan between the back and the rad, or use a shroud (you can also make a shroud from a 120mm fan if you dont have one)


 I attempted something like that with the Wings RS but the mounting holes in the back are for a 92mm fan.


----------



## Ceadderman

Best results are on the bottom because at the top it gives air a place to build up and interrupt the flow of the coolant.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Looski*


when installing the radiator, does it matter if the tubes are on the top or bottom.

I'm installing mine as we speak and was wondering if I have to take it out and turn it around


----------



## Looski

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Best results are on the bottom because at the top it gives air a place to build up and interrupt the flow of the coolant.









~Ceadder










Sounds good. Thank you sir







Back to building!


----------



## bfeng91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Okay, 25c ambients. Leave your pump alone. Not the problem imho, unless it's defective. Try different spots for your Rad in both intake and exhaust. I'm assuming of course that you went Intake on the back and not Exhaust and I think that it played havoc with your static pressure.

~Ceadder










I actually went exhaust, not intake.


----------



## sebastianTR

this cooler is pretty awesome
its very quite i like that


----------



## Ceadderman

Ahhh but you're also flowing through a 120mm footprint not the stock 140mm one. In any case my thought there was based on possibly intaking the exhaust from your GPU if you're running one. Didn't check, my apologies.









But yeah I think up top should be better results for you.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *bfeng91*


I actually went exhaust, not intake.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Don't undervolt it. Corsair was pretty adamant that the Pump be plugged in at the CPU cooler. Undervolting it will change the pump speed. Which you don't want to do.

Save that as last resort if you've got your mind set to do it.









~Ceadder









He meant undervolting the cpu, not pump, so I would say undervolting the cpu is fine.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kitekrazy* 
I attempted something like that with the Wings RS but the mounting holes in the back are for a 92mm fan.

ah okay i didnt know the rear fan was 92mm in that case.


----------



## SM0k3

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Don't undervolt it. Corsair was pretty adamant that the Pump be plugged in at the CPU cooler. Undervolting it will change the pump speed. Which you don't want to do.

Save that as last resort if you've got your mind set to do it.









~Ceadder










Ok so wait, I thought the radiator fan was suppose to be connected to the 4-pong CPU Fan connection, and the pump to an AUX/chassis fan connection? That's the way I have mine, would reversing them make a difference?


----------



## kitekrazy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SM0k3*


Ok so wait, I thought the radiator fan was suppose to be connected to the 4-pong CPU Fan connection, and the pump to an AUX/chassis fan connection? That's the way I have mine, would reversing them make a difference?


 I thought they designed it so you wouldn't make a mistake. One item has a 3 pin (radiator?), the other has a 4 pin.


----------



## bfeng91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SM0k3*


Ok so wait, I thought the radiator fan was suppose to be connected to the 4-pong CPU Fan connection, and the pump to an AUX/chassis fan connection? That's the way I have mine, would reversing them make a difference?


Yeah, that's right. However, I have 2 fans running, so they could either go on the MB or directly to the PSU (which is what I did). This way, the fans are always running at 100%. This just left the pump, and I put that into the CPU fan slot. The radiator fan has 4 prongs because it's a PWM fan, which gives speed control. Plugging it into a 3 pin header will make it run at 100%, so if you don't mind it running at 100%, then the 4 pin connector can be put into a 3 pin header.

Other than that, there's no difference.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Ahhh but you're also flowing through a 120mm footprint not the stock 140mm one. In any case my thought there was based on possibly intaking the exhaust from your GPU if you're running one. Didn't check, my apologies.









But yeah I think up top should be better results for you.

~Ceadder










I tried putting it on the top as exhaust, the temperatures were virutally the same - maybe a degree or two drop.

Intake in the rear dropped about 3c...still not much







perhaps trying AS5 on a last remount attempt might help?


----------



## DQ Hero

well, swapped out the TIM on the CPU for TX-3 and swapped back to 2 antec tri-cools(was using before) from the delta i was using and idle temps dropped 2C from what they were before. Does anyone know if TX3 has a cure time??


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Aye I meant maybe the cpu voltage is a little high for stock, as mine was alot lower at 1.144v compared to his 1.25v. I'm not completly clued up on how stock VID compares with different i7 chips, but this made me think that perhaps the higher voltage for same clock speed as my 920 was generating the extra heat.
Theres no harm undervolting your cpu at stock from 1.25v I guess.


----------



## Ceadderman

Oops, I shoulda known that.

Ahhhh well, thanks for pointing that out at least.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


He meant undervolting the cpu, not pump, so I would say undervolting the cpu is fine.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hmmm.







It did drop though. You might very well get some Shin-Etsu G751. That's what the stock TIM is and it just edges out AS5. You can get it at performance-pcs.com for about $4. But it's not very much. I think it's a quarter gram tube.

When you have everything back together you might try tapping the tubes to make sure that any bubbles hung up will be freed and able to go to the high point of the Rad. I'm not sure it'll make a difference but it's worth a shot.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *bfeng91*


I tried putting it on the top as exhaust, the temperatures were virutally the same - maybe a degree or two drop.

Intake in the rear dropped about 3c...still not much







perhaps trying AS5 on a last remount attempt might help?


@DQ hero... Nope it looks like TX3 has no cure time other than 8 hours or less.









~Ceadder


----------



## bfeng91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Hmmm.







It did drop though. You might very well get some Shin-Etsu G751. That's what the stock TIM is and it just edges out AS5. You can get it at performance-pcs.com for about $4. But it's not very much. I think it's a quarter gram tube.

When you have everything back together you might try tapping the tubes to make sure that any bubbles hung up will be freed and able to go to the high point of the Rad. I'm not sure it'll make a difference but it's worth a shot.









@DQ hero... Nope it looks like TX3 has no cure time other than 8 hours or less.









~Ceadder










I plan to order some shin-etsu, as I only have IC-7 and AS5 left over from when I used it in my laptop. However, I'll give the AS5 a chance to cure while I order the shin-etsu and have it shipped. Will it make a difference or am I doomed to have high temps forever (unless I get a new H50?)?


----------



## Ceadderman

Are you OC'ed somehow and not noticing it? This happened to someone else, not sure exactly what is going on if you can't hit at least mid to high 40s' at Idle and mid to high 50s' at load. It's behaving like you're OC'ed. Of course that 5870 is a pretty hot GPU so maybe it's affecting the H50. But I don't think that it should be considering your ambients are aroun 25c. Maybe you would be better off RMA'ing it.










Oh and the only real difference between the Shin-Etsu paste and the AS5 is that the AS5 has a longer cure time.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *bfeng91*


I plan to order some shin-etsu, as I only have IC-7 and AS5 left over from when I used it in my laptop. However, I'll give the AS5 a chance to cure while I order the shin-etsu and have it shipped. Will it make a difference or am I doomed to have high temps forever (unless I get a new H50?)?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd* 
Aye I meant maybe the cpu voltage is a little high for stock, as mine was alot lower at 1.144v compared to his 1.25v. I'm not completly clued up on how stock VID compares with different i7 chips, but this made me think that perhaps the higher voltage for same clock speed as my 920 was generating the extra heat.
Theres no harm undervolting your cpu at stock from 1.25v I guess.

Yeah, that's kind of what I was thinking too. Running 2.67GHz @ 1.25v is pretty high in my opinion. That voltage is something I would run for a 4.0GHz OC w/ HT enabled. If he wants to stay at stock speed, if he lowers the voltage down he will see those temps drop down a good bit.


----------



## GsxR1000Ryda

I just installed my h50 and i have a quick question. What rpm should the pump be running at. Using the Asus Probe tool, it has the cpu running at 1400pm. Also, my mobo cpu fan slot has 4 pins but the h50 only has 3. So i assumed i just keep one pin open?


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GsxR1000Ryda* 
I just installed my h50 and i have a quick question. _*What rpm should the pump be running at*_. Using the Asus Probe tool, it has the cpu _*running at 1400pm*_. Also, my mobo cpu fan slot has 4 pins but the h50 only has 3. So i assumed i just keep one pin open?

. . . that's about correct; 1400 to 1440 rpm is the noted normal







. . .
{ upon any mthrbrd header } . . .

mr-Charles .









.


----------



## GsxR1000Ryda

I guess il join the club too!
Attachment 158923


----------



## Quorwyf

I just picked up one of the h50's w/ the new mount kit (guide here) and i've got a few questions.

Would it be worth it to set it up w/ screws and springs like the old ver?

I'm gonna use this in a 800D. Is it feasible to set this up using the front-most top 120mm fan hole in push/pull w/ 38mm fans and shrouds? ex: top-bottom case|38mm fan|shroud|rad|shroud|38mm fan|filter/finger guard (unsure about last part atm)

thanks


----------



## HORNO

Hello! I've read through many, many, many pages here and I can't seem to find the answer I'm looking for. I'm building my first computer and I just bought an H-50. I also have a Cooler Master ATCS 840 case. There are 2 240mm case fans on top of this case and I believe you can remove those and add 3 120mm fans.

Has anyone tried mounting the H-50 rad up top on a case that has top fan mounts? Would this cause the pump to have to work harder because it would have to push the water up?

Was just wondering if it's been done and if it made any difference. I am going to try it once I begin building (still buying parts.)


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HORNO* 
Hello! I've read through many, many, many pages here and I can't seem to find the answer I'm looking for. I'm building my first computer and I just bought an H-50. I also have a Cooler Master ATCS 840 case. There are 2 240mm case fans on top of this case and I believe you can remove those and add 3 120mm fans.

Has anyone tried mounting the H-50 rad up top on a case that has top fan mounts? Would this cause the pump to have to work harder because it would have to push the water up?

Was just wondering if it's been done and if it made any difference. I am going to try it once I begin building (still buying parts.)

I tried having my Corsair H50 on top of my HAF 932 as intake, and the temperature was same, you won't have any problems.

What I suggest is you put x2 120mm fans as exhaust and then your H50 as exhaust too next to those other 2 fans.

If you put x2 for exhaust and your H50 next to it as intake, it will fck up the air flow and make some weird noise.

Hope I helped you.


----------



## ez12a

well i switched my CM R4 fans for some deltas i had lying around just for kicks. The layout is this
AFB1212VHE 38mm > shroud > case > shroud > rad > AFB1212SH 25mm

on load with prime 95 blend i get around 45-46C, about a 6C decrease in temps. But it is significantly louder.

edit: with prime95, i can have both deltas on the lowest setting on my Nexus fan controller and still maintain 52C max temp...this would be the temperature with both R4 fans running maxed out.


----------



## yannis18

Hello thread,

I just purchased my H50 and it is currently trying to cool my i7-920.

I have tried to read through at least 100 pages before I registered.

The case is a Thermaltake Elements S with 2 12cm intake fans at the front, 1 6cm exhaust at the back, below the cpu, one 23cm 800rpm exhaust fan at the top and the push-pull setup at the back of the case.

My ambient is 27 C, the MB temp is 45! and 47 is the idle temp. (have all c-states and relevant power management options enabled)
The i7-920 is overclocked to 3.6-4 Ghz with ~1.28 volts.
The full load temp is 72 C.

Stability is not 100% all the time. When using prime95 or occt for an hour I get no crashes. But sometimes, depending on the cpu clock and the voltage, if I leave the pc on (with [email protected] using 75% of my cores) I get crashes (black screens with nothing else responding) sometimes. Currently investigating the source, could be cpu voltage, pcu temp, etc)

I have a question regarding owners of both the h50 and the i7-920.
What is an acceptable delta of load temp-ambient temp when using a push-pull (exhaust) setup with1800 rpm fans (cpu OC as above)?

I will try to experiment with an intake setup or add shrouds later this week.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GsxR1000Ryda* 
I just installed my h50 and i have a quick question. What rpm should the pump be running at. Using the Asus Probe tool, it has the cpu running at 1400pm. Also, my mobo cpu fan slot has 4 pins but the h50 only has 3. So i assumed i just keep one pin open?

That is correct RPM. The H50's fan should be running at around 1700 and the pump at 1400. The extra pin is for PMW.

Here's a quote from JohnnyLucky at TomsHardware:

"PWM refers to Pulse Width Modulation which is a method of using electrical pulses to control fan speed and reduce signal noise or interference. It replaces the need for a rheostat to control fan speed.

The fourth pin/wire is used by the motherboard to control the speed of the cpu heatsink fan. Normally a 4 pin fan power cable is plugged into the 4 pin cpu fan header on the motherboard.

When using a heatsink fan with a 3 pin power connector with a 4 pin fan header on the motherboard, the fan will always be on because there is no fan control. The fan will run at full speed.

When using a heatsink fan with a 4 pin power connector with a 3 pin header on the motherboard, the fourth pin with the blue colored wire is not connected. The fan will run at full speed.

There has been an update to the original PWM specification developed by Intel back in 2003. The update allows PWM and fan control with a 3 pin connection. In some modern motherboards there may even be a BIOS setting which allows switching back and forth between 3 pin and 4 pin fan control."


----------



## ZoRzEr

Throw me on the list too!


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ZoRzEr* 
Throw me on the list too!


















lol i just saw you on the 932 forum.


----------



## ZoRzEr

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
lol i just saw you on the 932 forum.

lol. Hi there.

It shows exactly whats needed in both threads


----------



## nicco

hello!

after warming up TIM and whole system i decide to try more OC.

gain 4,4ghz @ 1,425V BIOS and 1,312v CPU-Z - but temps after 12min prime95 blend got too [email protected] core 0, wanted to end 30min blend but got power shut down, first of all think that something goes wrong - but that was only few mins black-out. Havent got screen of it - can do, but for 24/7 usage i dont want to stay at so hight temps.

between my ealry posted (http://www.overclock.net/9514416-post9409.html) achevment 4,03ghz and that 4,4ghz with black-out i got stable 4,2ghz

heres the screen









30min of prime95 bled got to core0:62C / core1:58C

i think for now i stay at 4,03ghz because temps. but next stage of my LC will be swiftech apogee gtz + swiftech mcp355 + 10/13 tubbing, this i supose give mi temp bonus to stay at 4,4-4,5ghz.

cheers


----------



## ocaddikt

I would like to join the club.
Two antec tri-cools in push/pull exhaust.
Idle 35c full load at 50c at 3.2ghz(hit a wall at 400fsb, think its the mobo)


----------



## Elite GunnerX

Added myself!


----------



## Ceadderman

Got my fan order...










And here's my X23 TIM...










So I'ma going to power down and install the 140 and a 120 to see how they fare in the dungeon.









~Ceadder


----------



## agentemo1

Hey guys! New hear. Big thanks to Xmisery and KcKyle for their help so far.

I am putting together a new build after 5 years on an amd fx55.

Power: Corsair hx1000w - $190 (have)
Cpu: I7 930 - $199 (have)
Cooling: Corsair H50 ??
Motherboard: ASUS P6X58D-E Motherboard - $239
Ram: Corsair Dominator 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) CMP6GX3M3A1600C8- $179.99
Graphics: BFG 9800gtx+ -$0 only cause i have it. I might drop in a 480 or sli 295
Sound: X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Professional Series - $78 (have)
System Drive: Intel X25-M 160GB Solid State Drive (SSD) $381 (have)
Drives 1: BARRACUDA ST3120026AS - $0 (have)
Drives 2: BARRACUDA ST3120026AS - $0 (have)
Case: Cooler Master HAF 932 F - $139.99
OS: Windows 7 Ultimate - $228 (have)

Xmisery has help me narrow down a few components. He told me drop in on this thread to discuss my cooling. I am looking at what to slap on my cpu. I am looking to just get a stable 4.0. I believe that the case I want is the HAF 932 unless someone can suggest a better option.

As far as configuration what might you suggest? I thought an intake (pulling in cool air) then through am exhaust tube up and out of the case?

Any thoughts on the setup or parts? Big thanks in advance. Not many poeple in nashville that I know who are into this.


----------



## jtluongo

Si just realized my h50 is upside down. the tubes are coming from the top of it. How bad is it for the cooler? or does it not really matter


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jtluongo* 
Si just realized my h50 is upside down. the tubes are coming from the top of it. How bad is it for the cooler? or does it not really matter

...really does not matter, which ever fit's Best for your situation & to make the _*less*_ of a "bend" for
the tubing/lines before the pump/CPU-head . . .









mr-Charles .









.


----------



## djsi38t

As long as you have top exhaust try the intake method first.If you have great airflow the h50 is pure win.


----------



## Turgin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HORNO* 
Hello! I've read through many, many, many pages here and I can't seem to find the answer I'm looking for. I'm building my first computer and I just bought an H-50. I also have a Cooler Master ATCS 840 case. There are 2 240mm case fans on top of this case and I believe you can remove those and add 3 120mm fans.

Has anyone tried mounting the H-50 rad up top on a case that has top fan mounts? Would this cause the pump to have to work harder because it would have to push the water up?

Was just wondering if it's been done and if it made any difference. I am going to try it once I begin building (still buying parts.)

I also have an ATCS 840 and installed my H50 in the front-most top position from the beginning. I have a single San Ace H101 as a push fan with a 38mm shroud. I have a Scythe SFlex-G as intake in the fan location at the bottom of the case. Coming from a Hyper 212+ with push/pull SFlex-G fans my max load temps were upper 70C @ 3.6Ghz with HT and now are about the same maybe a degree or two cooler (76C on 10 runs of Linpack) but my OC is 4.01Ghz with HT on. With the 212+ I could also do 4Ghz no HT and hit low 80C's under load. Drastic improvement in my book. I'm at work now, but will post some pics later when I get home.

I noticed a brief gurggling sound of water when I first powered on the unit and I've not heard a thing from it since even on a reboot. Lovin' it


----------



## Ceadderman

Hi guys. I'm back after installing two of the Yate Loons to my 932. I wanted to update everyone to let you hear them. In person they are pretty loud but I'm not sure that comes across on the Vid. Hell, the Bird is louder than my setup cause my Cam picked her up loud and clear. So if you have your speaker dialed up pretty good be forewarned.









I don't have my MoBo or H50 put together but that will be happening next week sometime. I'm getting a high value 5*** series GPU so I'm not putting it in til I get a DEMCiflex filter to keep dust to a minimum. C4F requires GPU to operate so it would be pointless to start in.

Anyway the MoBo is a loaner and the Cooler is stock. But not for much longer.
















YouTube- Jet loud Yate Loons =).wmv

Please Rate and Subscribe. I'll be doing some unboxings soon, would hate if everyone missed out.









~Ceadder


----------



## agentemo1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *djsi38t*


As long as you have top exhaust try the intake method first.If you have great airflow the h50 is pure win.


Anyone know if the HAF 932 is a great airflow case?

Best,

Derek

p.s. also I used the stock h50 fan... what should i get for a push pull setup? also best way to attach them?


----------



## Ceadderman

The best available as far as I am aware. But I don't have much knowledge on the new HAF X(942) which has one more opening for a 230mm fan to give you 4 of them if you buy an extra or have a spare layin around.

I'm constantly having to blow off the front of my case cause it flows so much air that the dust builds up on the 5.25 slot covers and the front grill. I put a tissue over the side to keep dust to a minimum there.But I'll be getting the DEMCiflex filter kit from performance-pcs as soon as they come back in stock.









But if you get the LE case or the new 932 with the LE graphicless door flow is lessened than that of the 1st generation 932.









Oh and I got Yate Loon High Speed Silents for my push/pull setup. They flow up to 88 CFM each. Mated to a fan controller they can be dialed back to get them to a reasonable dB level. $4 each from performance as well when left stock/no sleeving. Best way to attach them is longer 6-32 pitch screws the length of your application.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *agentemo1*


Anyone know if the HAF 932 is a great airflow case?

Best,

Derek

p.s. also I used the stock h50 fan... what should i get for a push pull setup? also best way to attach them?


----------



## navit

I just flipped my rad so that the fittings were on the bottom, had them on top,
has anyone noticed temps changing because of this? It seems to be running cooler or the ac is kicking it today
I will say the hoses are a little hard to manage this way, I liked the look of everything with the fittings on top


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *agentemo1*


Anyone know if the HAF 932 is a great airflow case?

Best,

Derek

p.s. also I used the stock h50 fan... what should i get for a push pull setup? also best way to attach them?


Hi Derek!

Yeah, the HAF932 (Or any HAF for that matter) has great airflow, hence the name, *H*igh*A*ir*F*low. hehe

I'm not sure what your budget is for a case, but, you may want to look at the new HAFX that just got released. It's the their latest release from the HAF series and looks pretty cool too. As far as fans go, check the first page of this thread, it lists a bunch of fans(and their specs) that people have used on the H50. I personally prefer and recommend the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (1850rpm) double-ball bearing fans. They push a lot of air, have very low dBA (noise) ratings, and work great when placed directly onto a radiator. The blade design (or fins) on them also create a decent amount of static pressure, which is something you are looking for with this product.

There are other good fans out there too, the CM R4's, Yate Loons, and even the Feser Triebwerk (which have built-in shrouds) are all good to name a few. If you're looking for 38mm high speed fans, check out the San Ace or Delta fans.


----------



## Ksireaper

Just got my H50



Would it be bad to do a Push pull with the stock fan and one of my stock antec 1200 fans until i can order a matched set of fans?


----------



## Demented

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ksireaper*


Just got my H50



Would it be bad to do a Push pull with the stock fan and one of my stock antec 1200 fans until i can order a matched set of fans?


That's what I'm doing with my Antec 900's stock rear fan and the stock Corsair one. I plan on getting some Gentle Typhoons and 2 cheap fans to gut for shrouds when i have the cash and they are in stock on the Egg.


----------



## Ksireaper

Sweet thanks for the reply, ill just do that then. Ill post pics one i actually finish building the machine. lol


----------



## top4874

Just bought one of these beasts on Friday. Should be here on Wednesday. Also got a couple of Gentle Typhoons to go with it.

I have a Lancool K62 case and planned on putting it on the rear fan mount pulling air in. I had planned on Case>Fan>Radiator>Shroud>Fan>venting into case. Is that the right order or should the shroud be between the first fan and the Rad?

Looking forward to setting this bad boy up and doing some stress testing. Will I notice a better than marginal decrease in temps over my Scythe Katana?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Ceadderman

You'll probably want it in between your pusher fan and the Rad, whichever way you go. The increase in flow would be better in that configuration.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *top4874*


Just bought one of these beasts on Friday. Should be here on Wednesday. Also got a couple of Gentle Typhoons to go with it.

I have a Lancool K62 case and planned on putting it on the rear fan mount pulling air in. I had planned on Case>Fan>Radiator>Shroud>Fan>venting into case. Is that the right order or should the shroud be between the first fan and the Rad?

Looking forward to setting this bad boy up and doing some stress testing. Will I notice a better than marginal decrease in temps over my Scythe Katana?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## bfeng91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Are you OC'ed somehow and not noticing it? This happened to someone else, not sure exactly what is going on if you can't hit at least mid to high 40s' at Idle and mid to high 50s' at load. It's behaving like you're OC'ed. Of course that 5870 is a pretty hot GPU so maybe it's affecting the H50. But I don't think that it should be considering your ambients are aroun 25c. Maybe you would be better off RMA'ing it.









Oh and the only real difference between the Shin-Etsu paste and the AS5 is that the AS5 has a longer cure time.









~Ceadder










The thing is, I'm using a EVGA 9800GT till my 5870 arrives...which I hope is soon.

My voltage actually reads 1.192V - and CPUz reads 2672.8 as my core clock. After a reseat and application of AS5, my 100% load temp is around 57c.

Should I still try to RMA it?








I got it from BestBuy and I may not have my original receipt x.x


----------



## Quorwyf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Quorwyf* 
I just picked up one of the h50's w/ the new mount kit (guide here) and i've got a few questions.

Would it be worth it to set it up w/ screws and springs like the old ver?

I'm gonna use this in a 800D. Is it feasible to set this up using the front-most top 120mm fan hole in push/pull w/ 38mm fans and shrouds? ex: top-bottom case|38mm fan|shroud|rad|shroud|38mm fan|filter/finger guard (unsure about last part atm)

thanks

Any input?


----------



## Ceadderman

Well, you are running an Intel CPU so at 57c @ 100c doesn't seem to be too high. I would tell you what I'm getting but the last time I said I was getting a nice GPU it sold out before I could do anything about it. I have 3... er... 2 days to go in 15 minutes so once I know the order is shipped I'll prep for it's unboxing to unleash it on the world.









The MoBo its going on should be obvious. Heck I'm not even updating the GPU in the sig rig anymore cause of the "out of stock" monster rearing his ugly head.









Anyway if you bought your H50 with a Credit Card you can get the information from your transaction report if you are going to RMA it through Best Buy. So no worries about the Receipt so long as Best Buy is able to look it up. That's one thing that you learn when you work retail.









Honestly though, it doesn't look like it needs to be returned since your load temps are under 60c. Just make sure your Rad fittings are at the bottom, your pump fittings are at 12 o'clock and good fans mated with it.

Here's the Vid of my 2 of my Yate Loons in place waiting to rumble with a CIVF/H50 setup. You'll see the RipJaws I'm currently running and am going to run until the AMD Dominators come back in stock.
















YouTube- Welcome to the Dark Side...

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *bfeng91* 
The thing is, I'm using a EVGA 9800GT till my 5870 arrives...which I hope is soon.

My voltage actually reads 1.192V - and CPUz reads 2672.8 as my core clock. After a reseat and application of AS5, my 100% load temp is around 57c.

Should I still try to RMA it?







I got it from BestBuy and I may not have my original receipt x.x


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bfeng91* 
The thing is, I'm using a EVGA 9800GT till my 5870 arrives...which I hope is soon.

My voltage actually reads 1.192V - and CPUz reads 2672.8 as my core clock. After a reseat and application of AS5, my 100% load temp is around 57c.

Should I still try to RMA it?







I got it from BestBuy and I may not have my original receipt x.x

Remember this is an Intel chip, let alone a i7 920 and they tend to run hotter than the AMD chips. That said, your temps actually look pretty good. This chip can go as high as 100c, but, you shouldnt exceed 85-90c (at least thats my personal limit) during a 100% stress test. At this point, nothing looks to be wrong, no need to RMA anything.


----------



## nomolos

add me to the club, h50 installed in push/pull config for now. gonna get a couple shrouds to help out in the next few days.


----------



## Luass Hole

how crucial is it to not lift up the pump from the cpu when installing it? Cause I did then I put it back real fast. My temps are 60c after 15 minutes of prime on a 1.14 vcore. That seems pretty high to me. idle at 25c


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Luass Hole*


how crucial is it to not lift up the pump from the cpu when installing it? Cause I did then I put it back real fast. My temps are 60c after 15 minutes on a 1.14 vcore. That seems pretty high to me.


Is that 60c idle after 15 minutes? If so, then yes, that's high!


----------



## Luass Hole

fixed


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Luass Hole* 
fixed

Thanks.

Remember, the 920/930 chips tend to run hotter than AMD chips. But, 60c for 4Ghz @ 1.14 with a 15minute 100% stress test run, seems pretty good to me.


----------



## Luass Hole

what temps are you getting?

edit: lowered it to 3.5 oc


----------



## Luass Hole

nvm hottest core is 55c. stupid me


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *agentemo1* 
Anyone know if the HAF 932 is a great airflow case?

Best,

Derek

p.s. also I used the stock h50 fan... what should i get for a push pull setup? also best way to attach them?

HAF stands for High air flow.


----------



## digital_steve

How do you actually 'join the club'? I have mine up and running with push/pull now

Do shrouds make much of a difference, even just one?


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


How do you actually 'join the club'? I have mine up and running with push/pull now

Do shrouds make much of a difference, even just one?


Yeah shrouds make a difference on radiators since there are so many fins per inch.

It should decrease your temperatures by a few degrees. Also, it will make your cooling less noisy!


----------



## Ceadderman

Unless of course you buy cooling fans that are rated over 60cfm like I do.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


Yeah shrouds make a difference on radiators since there are so many fins per inch.

It should decrease your temperatures by a few degrees. Also, it will make your cooling less noisy!


----------



## antig24

Hello, I am installing the H50 as an exhaust using the stock fan. What is the correct configuration?

A) Outside | Case | Radiator | Fan with flow to the left blowing into the radiator | inside

B) Outside | Case | Fan with flow to the left pulling air thru the radiator | Radiator | inside

I think A is the best cooling solution, but I don't think that it is possible with the stock hardware since I don't see how to attach the radiator to the case. B is possible with the screw going thru the fan and screwing into the radiator. I eventually want to go to a push/pull system but don't have the parts right now to do so. Will my performance differ drastically between A and B? Thanks for the help!


----------



## Turgin

I've had mine installed for several days now and couldn't be happier with the results.

I picked up various lengths of 6-32 screws at Lowe's. I made a shroud from a Delta FFB122EHE fan I salvaged from a decommissioned server at work. My push fan is a single San Ace H101. I got it from Newark with bare wire leads, soldered on a 3 pin connector, and sleeved it with some black sleeving I salvaged from the same server. I was able to push my OC from 3.6Ghz to just over 4Ghz and keep my load temps the same and maybe even a couple degrees cooler.

I used a Scythe SFlex-G fan as intake on the bottom hoping to supply some fresh outside air to the intake fan on the H50. I plan on trying to add a 120mm intake in the unused 5.25 bays to hopefully dump even more outside air directly to the rad intake.

Anyway, some pics attached and comments welcome. Please overlook my attempt at adding another cable management hole to the motherboard tray where the SATA cables connect. Its too close to the motherboard to use because the cables have to bend past a right angle to use it and its lopsided to boot! Very irritated at myself for such a shoddy job.


----------



## bfeng91

Now that I guess I've settled my problems, add me to the club!!


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy* 
Yeah shrouds make a difference on radiators since there are so many fins per inch.

It should decrease your temperatures by a few degrees. Also, it will make your cooling less noisy!

Cheers... i was thinking of adding a shroud to the push side of my setup.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Unless of course you buy cooling fans that are rated over 60cfm like I do.









~Ceadder









Heh... mine are rated like 55cfm i think. The models are listed in my system link.


----------



## Kona1169

im curious. so im running push pull with the stock antec tricool (from my case) with the stock corsair fan on the front.

how much of a difference would i see if i ran 2 gentle typhoons on the setup?

if not is there maybe a way to drop the temps some more?


----------



## Ceadderman

Do yourself a favor and update your sig rig in your "User CP" up top. Cause we need to know what kind kind of CPU you're running, if you're overclocking or not etc. before we can give you reasonable advice. Advice that won't cause your system to hate you forever and commit assisted Harikari via OCN member advice. M'kay?









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kona1169*


im curious. so im running push pull with the stock antec tricool (from my case) with the stock corsair fan on the front.

how much of a difference would i see if i ran 2 gentle typhoons on the setup?

if not is there maybe a way to drop the temps some more?


----------



## Kona1169

there ya go. i always forget to post my specs. i havnt overclocked yet but i think i might do it to 3.8ghz with a 2400-2800 NB (is it worth it thought over stock?)

as i said the h50 is being intaked with a tricool and stock fan on front with the top fan 200mm on medium


----------



## Ceadderman

I would ask Tater Tot about your OC question. I'm not yet into my 955BE/Crosshair Combo(next week) and I would be remiss if I were to say one way or the other on that question. Especially since I don't have any experience with your MoBo. I will say that you'll want to increase your Ghz slowly. I wouldn't jump right into a specific level right off the bat.

Anyway, glad you updated your specs. Now anyone that is knowledgeable about your case can help you and knowing the type of CPU assists that, since Intel runs hotter and nobody knew if that was what you run.









I'm not sure but I don't think that the 200mm plays a part unless you plan to fabricate mounts to allow mounting the H50 under it. So basically what you need to do is figure out your setup by some good old fashioned trial and error. Like in my 932, I can run it as either exhaust or intake in 3 places. The 5.25 bays, the ceiling or at the back as a dedicated intake. But if I run it as intake I have to compensate for the loss in static pressure, so I would have to mount another fan as an intake since the top is an exhaust and the side and front are intakes. One 230 cannot overcome 2 intakes by itself.

See? You have to know what you have for fans, know their flow path and adjust accordingly. In my case I picked up a Highspeed Silent(not very silent







) and installed it in place of the stock exhaust and increased flow. Then I'm going to mount my H50 to the ceiling with a puller another HS silent in 120. mount the Rad, then a gutted 120 probably the Corsair stocker, and another HS silent 120. I plan to compensate for this by reinstalling my non LED 230 up front set to intake and running the whole system via fan controller to increase or decrease speed as needed. That's the good thing about HS fans. They're tunable.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kona1169*


there ya go. i always forget to post my specs. i havnt overclocked yet but i think i might do it to 3.8ghz with a 2400-2800 NB (is it worth it thought over stock?)

as i said the h50 is being intaked with a tricool and stock fan on front with the top fan 200mm on medium


----------



## Demented

I have a question about more powerful fans, shrouds and a fan controller.

I currently have my H50 set up as intake with my Antec Tri-Cool fan>Rad>Stock corsair fan. I want to get more powerful fans, and preferably from the Egg as sometimes they ship from Jersey, which means one day delivery. I wanted to get the Gentle Typhoons for a good air flow/noise choice, however the Egg is always out of stock for them. Then I thought I maybe could get a fan controller and get the Ultra Kaze 3000 RPM fans, and be able to turn them down if I don't like how loud they are. Since the Kaze's are 38MM, I wouldn't be able to fit a shroud on both sides, but if I mount it like so:

Ultra Kaze>Shroud>Case>Rad>Ultra Kaze

Would that be a sufficient shroud set up? This is all new to me, so I am open to all suggestions. This is the fan controller I wanted to get. I figure I'd be able to use it with the H50's fans, as well as my two front intake fans.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.


----------



## Ceadderman

For sure that would be efficient. Your puller will be doing less work as a result of the pusher having more flow to push it. So by all means if you can get 2 or 3 38mm fans in your set up that should be more than plenty. I have the room but I like Yate Loon(especially after I got my first set) as they were highly recommended by several of our 932/922 members in the HAF club.

I can't say they were wrong that's for sure. My 140mm is throwin down some tremendous suction. It increased the stock cooler RPM from mid to high 7ks' to 8881-9000 RPM postings. It's a good thin I get to order my MoBo on Thursday cause I'm not sure this little fan can handle the increase in flow.







lol

Well anyway back to yours...

If you go back to the OP on the 1st page, there is a list of popular fans and I believe that UltraKaze is included. Should show the specs as well.









Oh yes and that fan controller is okay... but I would go to YouTube and look it up. Cause if I'm not mistaken that one isn't that great. But it's been a few months since I saw anything about it so take that with a grain of salt.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demented*


I have a question about more powerful fans, shrouds and a fan controller.

I currently have my H50 set up as intake with my Antec Tri-Cool fan>Rad>Stock corsair fan. I want to get more powerful fans, and preferably from the Egg as sometimes they ship from Jersey, which means one day delivery. I wanted to get the Gentle Typhoons for a good air flow/noise choice, however the Egg is always out of stock for them. Then I thought I maybe could get a fan controller and get the Ultra Kaze 3000 RPM fans, and be able to turn them down if I don't like how loud they are. Since the Kaze's are 38MM, I wouldn't be able to fit a shroud on both sides, but if I mount it like so:

Ultra Kaze>Shroud>Case>Rad>Ultra Kaze

Would that be a sufficient shroud set up? This is all new to me, so I am open to all suggestions. This is the fan controller I wanted to get. I figure I'd be able to use it with the H50's fans, as well as my two front intake fans.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.


----------



## navit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demented*


I have a question about more powerful fans, shrouds and a fan controller.

I currently have my H50 set up as intake with my Antec Tri-Cool fan>Rad>Stock corsair fan. I want to get more powerful fans, and preferably from the Egg as sometimes they ship from Jersey, which means one day delivery. I wanted to get the Gentle Typhoons for a good air flow/noise choice, however the Egg is always out of stock for them. Then I thought I maybe could get a fan controller and get the Ultra Kaze 3000 RPM fans, and be able to turn them down if I don't like how loud they are. Since the Kaze's are 38MM, I wouldn't be able to fit a shroud on both sides, but if I mount it like so:

Ultra Kaze>Shroud>Case>Rad>Ultra Kaze

Would that be a sufficient shroud set up? This is all new to me, so I am open to all suggestions. This is the fan controller I wanted to get. I figure I'd be able to use it with the H50's fans, as well as my two front intake fans.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.


 I have that fan controller and it works ok but it wont run any of my fans full throttle for some reason, I havent figured that out yet. I have to cr4 hooked up to it and the only run at 1800-1860 rpms instead of the 2000 the will push.
As I said I dont know if its the controller or somthing else. Looks nice though


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Turgin* 
I picked up various lengths of 6-32 screws at Lowe's. I made a shroud from a Delta FFB122EHE fan I salvaged from a decommissioned server at work. My push fan is a single San Ace H101. I got it from Newark with bare wire leads, soldered on a 3 pin connector, and sleeved it with some black sleeving I salvaged from the same server. I was able to push my OC from 3.6Ghz to just over 4Ghz and keep my load temps the same and maybe even a couple degrees cooler.

I used a Scythe SFlex-G fan as intake on the bottom hoping to supply some fresh outside air to the intake fan on the H50. I plan on trying to add a 120mm intake in the unused 5.25 bays to hopefully dump even more outside air directly to the rad intake.(

What length screws did you use? I'm doing a similar setup and I should be getting my cheap fans I'm going to use as shrouds today and I'd like to have the screws so I can go ahead and put it all together tonight.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
For sure that would be efficient. Your puller will be doing less work as a result of the pusher having more flow to push it. So by all means if you can get 2 or 3 38mm fans in your set up that should be more than plenty. I have the room but I like Yate Loon(especially after I got my first set) as they were highly recommended by several of our 932/922 members in the HAF club.

I can't say they were wrong that's for sure. My 140mm is throwin down some tremendous suction. It increased the stock cooler RPM from mid to high 7ks' to 8881-9000 RPM postings. It's a good thin I get to order my MoBo on Thursday cause I'm not sure this little fan can handle the increase in flow.







lol

Well anyway back to yours...

If you go back to the OP on the 1st page, there is a list of popular fans and I believe that UltraKaze is included. Should show the specs as well.









Oh yes and that fan controller is okay... but I would go to YouTube and look it up. Cause if I'm not mistaken that one isn't that great. But it's been a few months since I saw anything about it so take that with a grain of salt.









~Ceadder









This brings about another question. If I were to get more powerful fans like the Kaze 300rpm ones, with shrouds, would I be able to get better temps by using it as exhaust instead of intake? I currently have it as intake, with all of it inside my case. If I change any fans, then I plan on mounting one fan and a shroud outside my case, with plans on cutting away the grill on the back of my Antec 900 in order to help airflow. Then, however, I plan on buying a fan filter to attack to the outer fan, so that the rad doesn't get filled with dust and junk. But if I am basically going from 50-79CFM to a possible 133CFM would I be able to use it as exhaust? I know it would be pulling warmer air through the rad, but with the flow being greater, and shrouds, would the temps be better?

Sorry to ask so many questions, but I['m really on the fence with this, and wouldn't mind making a decision soon, so I can place my order.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kona1169*


there ya go. i always forget to post my specs. i havnt overclocked yet but i think i might do it to 3.8ghz with a 2400-2800 NB (is it worth it thought over stock?)

as i said the h50 is being intaked with a tricool and stock fan on front with the top fan 200mm on medium


Absolutely!! and it's dead simple! Just bump up the multi on your CPU to 3.8 Ghz. The C3 version can do this without even having to touch the voltage so it stays nice and cool at 1.35 Volts. NB should be a min 2600 Mhz for which you will need a voltage bump to 1.24 Volts (no biggie...lots more headroom left if you wish to someday go higher). Bring RAM to 1600 via multi if you can with timmings as tight as manufacturer will allow (mine like to stay at 9-9-9-24 33 1t though I know people have gone as low as 7-7-7-18 with some RAM). The last part is the trickiest and most dangerous. Too much voltage to your RAM can brick your entire MB. I keep everything on my RAM at manufactures recommendation. After you go to 3.8Ghz, let me know if you'd like advice to go to 4.0 Ghz. The H50 can handle that no problem. Just needs more careful tweaking and some experimentation. Again though...3.8 Ghz is the sweet spot for this CPU and incredibly easy to do. Enjoy.









p.s. my temps at 3.8ghz with 20 C ambient temp is 26 C idle and 38 to 40 C Max load (3 hours prime 95 blended test).


----------



## zefs

One thing about NB overclock. Mine is set to 2600 with 1150V but for 2800 I need about 1400V, does it worth it? I don't think so and it also increases my cpu temps.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demented*


This brings about another question. If I were to get more powerful fans like the Kaze 300rpm ones, with shrouds, would I be able to get better temps by using it as exhaust instead of intake? I currently have it as intake, with all of it inside my case. If I change any fans, then I plan on mounting one fan and a shroud outside my case, with plans on cutting away the grill on the back of my Antec 900 in order to help airflow. Then, however, I plan on buying a fan filter to attack to the outer fan, so that the rad doesn't get filled with dust and junk. But if I am basically going from 50-79CFM to a possible 133CFM would I be able to use it as exhaust? I know it would be pulling warmer air through the rad, but with the flow being greater, and shrouds, would the temps be better?

Sorry to ask so many questions, but I['m really on the fence with this, and wouldn't mind making a decision soon, so I can place my order.


After going through more than a few fans I have comfortably settled on the 2000 RPM Ultra Kaze (used to have the Sythe S-Flex before that). I have them in push/pull with 2 X 25 mm shrouds as front intake in my spare dive bays. This combo makes for a nice wind tunnel effect that goes right over the CPU and out the back 120mm exhaust fan. Little to no effect on my internal case temps. The nice thing about the 2000 rpm version is that they are not so loud that they need a fan controller yet provide fantastic cooling. For me they are the sweet spot between noise and cooling. The 3000 rpm version are just incredibly loud and annoying hence the reason for the fan controller. Save yourself the money and just get the 2000 rpm version without a fan controller. If you're still concerned just google the Ultra Kaze 2000 rpm reviews.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zefs*


One thing about NB overclock. Mine is set to 2600 with 1150V but for 2800 I need about 1400V, does it worth it? I don't think so and it also increases my cpu temps.


You're right and 2600 mhz is good to 4.0 ghz. Beyond that you need a significant voltage boost to get 2800 - 3000 mhz (though I know people who use it this way 24/7). Also depends on your MB. I'm good with 2600 mhz at 3.8 - 4.0 ghz. A 2800 mhz overclock would howver yield a slight increase in performance (again not really worth it IMHO).


----------



## Demented

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


After going through more than a few fans I have comfortably settled on the 2000 RPM Ultra Kaze (used to have the Sythe S-Flex before that). I have them in push/pull with 2 X 25 mm shrouds as front intake in my spare dive bays. This combo makes for a nice wind tunnel effect that goes right over the CPU and out the back 120mm exhaust fan. Little to no effect on my internal case temps. The nice thing about the 2000 rpm version is that they are not so loud that they need a fan controller yet provide fantastic cooling. For me they are the sweet spot between noise and cooling. The 3000 rpm version are just incredibly loud and annoying hence the reason for the fan controller. Save yourself the money and just get the 2000 rpm version without a fan controller. If you're still concerned just google the Ultra Kaze 2000 rpm reviews.










That sounds good, but they would definitely run off my mobo? I currently have the stock Corsair and Tri-Cool running off my mobo, so not getting a fan controller would be nice, as long as I know they will run off the mobo.

Also, Frozen CPU has the Ultra Kaze 2000 in stock, but their cheapest fan (to gut for shrouds) is $5.99. You think I could run them without the shrouds until maybe I see a good deal on OCN or somewhere for some crap fans for shrouds?


----------



## Reactions

Sometimes, when I turn on my computer the H50 fan starts to spin incredible load and all the mobo lights start to shine, but nothing else happends. It have happened 2 times after I tried Overclocking Genie (turned it off now) thing on my mobo, overclocked a bit and cleared cmos with the button on my mobo afterwards.


----------



## Ceadderman

You can always gut the corsair that comes with the H50. So there you are one brand new free shroud. Well okay wasn't free but it wasn't required either.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demented*


That sounds good, but they would definitely run off my mobo? I currently have the stock Corsair and Tri-Cool running off my mobo, so not getting a fan controller would be nice, as long as I know they will run off the mobo.

Also, Frozen CPU has the Ultra Kaze 2000 in stock, but their cheapest fan (to gut for shrouds) is $5.99. You think I could run them without the shrouds until maybe I see a good deal on OCN or somewhere for some crap fans for shrouds?


----------



## Turgin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


What length screws did you use? I'm doing a similar setup and I should be getting my cheap fans I'm going to use as shrouds today and I'd like to have the screws so I can go ahead and put it all together tonight.


I'll have to measure the extras I have when I get home this evening to be sure, but I think I used 7/16" screws with washers to attach the rad to the 120mm adapter in the case and the shroud to the rad. I used 2" screws with nuts to bolt all the way through the grill and the H101 into the shroud. So the rad is bolted to the case via the CoolerMaster adapter, the shroud is bolted directly to the rad, and the H101+grill is bolted to the shroud.

I measured and I actually used 3/8" screws instead of 7/16" to attach the rad to the case and the shroud to the rad.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
You can always gut the corsair that comes with the H50. So there you are one brand new free shroud. Well okay wasn't free but it wasn't required either.









~Ceadder









What if I just ordered two Ultra Kaze 3000RPMs and a nice fan controller? Do I really NEED shrouds? are they going to improve my airflow/temps that much?


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Oi Oi! So house move went rather well, got the RiG setup in the new "pc room" (dnt let the mrs hear that!) And it seems that my temps are even lower now, more ventilation in this house! Have only taken Idle temps at the moment, max load temps, (in the old house) were always hovering around mid-high 50's but thought you guys would be impressed just as I am with these idle readings will post max load etc soon.

Cheers


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope, you don't NEED shrouds. But you'll probably find that you _WANT_ at least one because it better concentrates the blast over your Rad.









And it also allow the blast to get to a better cooling speed. Especially if you mate it to the Rad with a 120mm fan silencer to seal it. It won't be 100% sealed but there will be less flow wasted with them in place.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Demented* 
What if I just ordered two Ultra Kaze 3000RPMs and a nice fan controller? Do I really NEED shrouds? are they going to improve my airflow/temps that much?


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Reactions*


Sometimes, when I turn on my computer the H50 fan starts to spin incredible load and all the mobo lights start to shine, but nothing else happends. It have happened 2 times after I tried Overclocking Genie (turned it off now) thing on my mobo, overclocked a bit and cleared cmos with the button on my mobo afterwards.


Are you sure it wasn't the fan in your video card making all that noise? They do that. If it didn't boot, most likely, your overclock was unstable.


----------



## Reactions

Yeah I know, but I've turned of overclock and resetted CMOS. And it did it anyway.


----------



## Demented

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Nope, you don't NEED shrouds. But you'll probably find that you _WANT_ at least one because it better concentrates the blast over your Rad.









And it also allow the blast to get to a better cooling speed. Especially if you mate it to the Rad with a 120mm fan silencer to seal it. It won't be 100% sealed but there will be less flow wasted with them in place.









~Ceadder










Are you talking about these:

https://www.jab-tech.com/120mm-Anti-...k-pr-3268.html

And if so, where would I place these?

Kaze>Silencer>shroud>case>rad>shroud>silencer>Kaze

or

Kaze>Shroud>case>silencer>rad>silencer>shroud>Kaze

This is all pretty new to me, and while I'm somewhat happy with my temps, I'd like to spend a little to see if I can get them better.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup, that's what I'm talking about.









Okay so as to confirm your thoughts and to diagram them a bit better...

----> 120mm / shroud / Rad / 120mm ----> Case

The forward slashes are your silencers. You can add one to the case side if you want but it's not necessary if your case only has 4 points of contact like mine does. Silencers do their best work when the fan has uninterrupted surface contact in 360 Deg. But since you can get them in rubber they make great seals as well. The arrows are showing exhaust if you set it that way. For intake you would put the shroud on the other side.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Demented* 
Are you talking about these:

https://www.jab-tech.com/120mm-Anti-...k-pr-3268.html

And if so, where would I place these?

Kaze>Silencer>shroud>case>rad>shroud>silencer>Kaze

or

Kaze>Shroud>case>silencer>rad>silencer>shroud>Kaze

This is all pretty new to me, and while I'm somewhat happy with my temps, I'd like to spend a little to see if I can get them better.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Yup, that's what I'm talking about.









Okay so as to confirm your thoughts and to diagram them a bit better...

----> 120mm / shroud / Rad / 120mm ----> Case

The forward slashes are your silencers. You can add one to the case side if you want but it's not necessary if your case only has 4 points of contact like mine does. Silencers do their best work when the fan has uninterrupted surface contact in 360 Deg. But since you can get them in rubber they make great seals as well. The arrows are showing exhaust if you set it that way. For intake you would put the shroud on the other side.









~Ceadder









OK, sorry. So say I was getting two Ultra Kaze's and two shrouds set as exhaust; it would be:

<Kaze<Silencer<Shroud<CASE<RAD<Silencer<Shroud<Sil encer<Kaze

In other words, should the silencers be between the shroud and fan, or just between what touches the Rad?


----------



## Ceadderman

For best results, throughout the setup.









So since you're talking about exterior mounted fans

<Silencer<Case<silencer<Rad<

Yes the Rad is open surface but it will help keep flow moving in one direction and not get eddied.

Okay now I know that last part is confusing. "Eddied" he says w.t.h.







"

Think of air like water. It's only two molecules different really so apply the dynamics of a river or stream to your flow. The more objects that are in the way of the flow the more water pools and stagnates. This same principle applies to air. If you add surface for air to grip to it will. It won't be as pronounced as water but you'll create undue vortex in the system if the air has a chance to build up. More vortex means less flow. Adding silencers seals the gaps as much as possible without filling the vanes of the Radiator which would now be the only weak point in the unit. But we don't mind this because the vanes are what keep the liquid cooling to return to the pump.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Demented* 
OK, sorry. So say I was getting two Ultra Kaze's and two shrouds set as exhaust; it would be:

<Kaze<Silencer<Shroud<CASE<RAD<Silencer<Shroud<Sil encer<Kaze

In other words, should the silencers be between the shroud and fan, or just between what touches the Rad?


----------



## Demented

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


For best results, throughout the setup.









So since you're talking about exterior mounted fans

<Silencer<Case<silencer<Rad<

Yes the Rad is open surface but it will help keep flow moving in one direction and not get eddied.

Okay now I know that last part is confusing. "Eddied" he says w.t.h.







"

Think of air like water. It's only two molecules different really so apply the dynamics of a river or stream to your flow. The more objects that are in the way of the flow the more water pools and stagnates. This same principle applies to air. If you add surface for air to grip to it will. It won't be as pronounced as water but you'll create undue vortex in the system if the air has a chance to build up. More vortex means less flow. Adding silencers seals the gaps as much as possible without filling the vanes of the Radiator which would now be the only weak point in the unit. But we don't mind this because the vanes are what keep the liquid cooling to return to the pump.









~Ceadder










OK, I know this is getting redundant, and I get exactly what you are saying, so in a quest to make it as sealed as possible, it might be better for me to do it this way:

<Kaze<Silencer<Case<Silencer<Shroud<Silencer<Rad<S ilencer<Shroud<Silencer<Kaze

Please bear with me. With having to put at least the one Kaze on the outside of my case for space reasons, I plan on cutting the back of my Antec 900 so it's a gaping hole instead of the honeycomb that is there now. So, thinking the Rad will be right up against this in the inside of the case, it might not be a great seal. Putting the shroud on the inside like my diagram above shows, makes me think I have it sealed pretty tight. Maybe it's overkill, but like I said this is new to me, and if I am going to order fans and stuff, I'd rather order it all in one shot, rather than have to order more things later. Also, I plan on attaching an aluminum filter to the external Kaze, IF I wind up keeping it as intake as I have it now. However, if exhaust with Kaze's will yield better results than my current fans on intake, I won't need the filter.

Thanks a lot Ceadder, you've been a great help!


----------



## kitekrazy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Try this case...

NZXT BETA EVO Classic Series Mid-Tower Case

The 120mm grills are directly overhead of the CPU and should allow you to top mount the H50.

~Ceadder










 I bought that case. I now have the H50 running from the rear. I bought a red fan for the top. I didn't take any pics of this since it was past 1 a.m. 
When I first fired up the system it kept shutting down. After taking a look I noticed I didn't connect the fan header correctly. It's not a good idea to work on systems after bed time.

Thanks for the suggestion Ceadder.


----------



## Seanicy

Here is a couple pics me unboxing my, Feser / Noiseblocker Triebwerk 55mm 1800RPM fans. I will post up some more shots of them once I get these babies installed. I hope my temps will be lower now after spending $80 on two fans...


----------



## kcuestag

I bought x2 Noiseblocker fans too (21â‚¬ each, that hurts my pocket







) and my temperatures dropped on load almost 8ÂºC LOL.

Noiseblockers ftw


----------



## Seanicy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


I bought x2 Noiseblocker fans too (21â‚¬ each, that hurts my pocket







) and my temperatures dropped on load almost 8ÂºC LOL.

Noiseblockers ftw










Is that off of your load temps? DuhDeeDeeDee
I got my H50 in a push/pull with the stock Corsair fan and one of my CM-R4's in an exaust config and temps are going crazy and causing instability...Florida summer weather sssuuuccckkksss for overclocking!!! Will get these Noiseblockers installed the proper way (intake)...


----------



## Reactions

Hey, my Scythe GentleTyphoons 1850 RPM arrive tomorrow so I'm going to rearrange the cooling situation in my 800D. I'm planning on running the H50 as exhast with P/P and mount 2x Scythe GentleTyphoon's (800RPM, got wrong from store in the first place) in adittion to the Corsair H50 Stock fan in the top of the case where you can mount 3x 120mm fans. Do you think that'll be ok? Like
Corsair H50 Stock Fan - GentleTyphoon 800 RPM - GentleTyphoon 800RPM # 2 
Mounted in the top of the case where you can fit a radiator.
I also wonder if I should mount the three fans as intake since I already got exhaust with the H50 rad or if I should mount those as exhaust too or if I should mix so some of them is exhaust and one is intake or something. Please help







I don't have any other fans than 2x GentleTyphoon 1850 RPM (for P/P), 2x GentleTyphoon 800RPM (hoping that these can be used as casefans as I've told you and the H50 stock fan. I also got the 140 mm fan that I had to remove to mount the H50 rad, any ideas where I can place that?
{Reactions}


----------



## Ceadderman

No problem bro, that's how I roll.









Sorry bout the short post guys, I'll be back later. I'm currently posting from the Library across the River on my dinky netbook. It's great for surfing sucks for typing.









I gotta split soon and go to the post office to RMA my Optical drive(not the listed one) and get some emery cloth from the Napa across the streat from the P.O.

Peace.










~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *kitekrazy*


I bought that case. I now have the H50 running from the rear. I bought a red fan for the top. I didn't take any pics of this since it was past 1 a.m. 
When I first fired up the system it kept shutting down. After taking a look I noticed I didn't connect the fan header correctly. It's not a good idea to work on systems after bed time.

Thanks for the suggestion Ceadder.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Demented* 
That sounds good, but they would definitely run off my mobo? I currently have the stock Corsair and Tri-Cool running off my mobo, so not getting a fan controller would be nice, as long as I know they will run off the mobo.

Also, Frozen CPU has the Ultra Kaze 2000 in stock, but their cheapest fan (to gut for shrouds) is $5.99. You think I could run them without the shrouds until maybe I see a good deal on OCN or somewhere for some crap fans for shrouds?

Yes they will run off your mobo. Ask around, I'm sure you could track down some broken 120 mm fans. Alternativley you could always just make a ghetto mod shroud out of whatever is handy.


----------



## Tennobanzai

I just lapped my H50 and added a shroud. Temps went down about 5C with both these mods.


----------



## Luass Hole

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Seanicy* 
Is that off of your load temps? DuhDeeDeeDee
I got my H50 in a push/pull with the stock Corsair fan and one of my CM-R4's in an exaust config and temps are going crazy and causing instability...Florida summer weather sssuuuccckkksss for overclocking!!! Will get these Noiseblockers installed the proper way (intake)...

Lived in Ft. Lauderdale for 5 years. It's time you buy an A/C


----------



## top4874

Got my H50 today and installed it with the stock fan pulling air in from the back of the case. Case>Fan>Shroud>Radiator config. With my Scythe Katana 3 my temps were 29C idle and 53C under full load (IntelBurnTest 10 runs) after installing the H50 temps were 24C idle and 43C under full load (IBT 10 runs).

I wont be able to use a push pull config. I tried to do this initially but the second fan is blocked by the pump/block. I am really impressed with the results as it is though. I am going to do some more testing and then replace the stock TIM with some mx-3 and see if I get better temps.

Awesome product for the budget minded OC'er.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *top4874*


Got my H50 today and installed it with the stock fan pulling air in from the back of the case. Case>Fan>Shroud>Radiator config. With my Scythe Katana 3 my temps were 29C idle and 53C under full load (IntelBurnTest 10 runs) after installing the H50 temps were 24C idle and 43C under full load (IBT 10 runs).

I wont be able to use a push pull config. I tried to do this initially but the second fan is blocked by the pump/block. I am really impressed with the results as it is though. I am going to do some more testing and then replace the stock TIM with some mx-3 and see if I get better temps.

Awesome product for the budget minded OC'er.



You may not be able to but a lot of people put one of the fans or fan/shroud outside of the case so they have enough room for p/p.

Fan>Shroud>Case>Radiator>Shroud >Fan

You just of course need the screws to go through the fan>shroud>case and into the radiator and most any case with a built in place to put a 120mm fan should work fine.

It is also a good idea to add fan vibration dampeners between everything not really for the sound but because they help to seal everything together so you get no air leakage between the shrouds and fans and radiator also I wouldn't put the radiator right up against the case without one.


----------



## Kona1169

@Ceadder so to lower 120mm bring air in. the h50 brings air in but at the back top of the case. the 200mm sucks all the hot air out. sounds pretty good to me no?

@Garanthor i dont have the c3 tho =/ i really wish i did. i have a c2. is overclocking to 3.8 (even 4ghz but i dunno if i want to run that) worth it thought. will i see a good speed increase or am i better not doing it to save the stress on the hardware.

so the antec spins @ 1200 i think on low while i have the corsair fan spinning @ 800. i dont want anything louder than my antec fans which are still pretty quiet imo.

what would be a good fan to get though. i hear that GT's are good but i can only get the ap14's from newegg.ca. also are do fan shrouds make a big difference? where do you get them (do you make them out of cheap fans?)


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kona1169* 
@Ceadder so to lower 120mm bring air in. the h50 brings air in but at the back top of the case. the 200mm sucks all the hot air out. sounds pretty good to me no?

@Garanthor i dont have the c3 tho =/ i really wish i did. i have a c2. is overclocking to 3.8 (even 4ghz but i dunno if i want to run that) worth it thought. will i see a good speed increase or am i better not doing it to save the stress on the hardware.

so the antec spins @ 1200 i think on low while i have the corsair fan spinning @ 800. i dont want anything louder than my antec fans which are still pretty quiet imo.

what would be a good fan to get though. i hear that GT's are good but i can only get the ap14's from newegg.ca. also are do fan shrouds make a big difference? where do you get them (do you make them out of cheap fans?)


I got GT's myself they are quieter than my stock case fans from my In-Win Fanqua case. Shrouds help because they eliminate the "dead zone" you get when the fan is right on top of the radiator because of the middle motor where there is obviously no fan blades the 25-35mm shroud makes it so the full 120mm of the radiator is getting air. The other plus of a shroud is it reduces noise of the fan(s) because they don't have the air sorta pushing back at them from being so close to the radiator.


----------



## Demented

Hey, I just had a thought. Currently I have the Corsair's stock fan connected to the CPU Fan connector on my motherboard. I am getting a fan controller, and was going to use it to control not only the new Ultra Kaze's I am getting but also the four other fans that are in my case. Does a motherboard NEED a fan plugged into the CPU Fan connector? Like will it not boot if there is nothing connected to it?


----------



## digital_steve

Do any other screws work with the fans and shroud?
I can't find 6-32xwhatever anywhere locally!


----------



## zefs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Demented* 
Hey, I just had a thought. Currently I have the Corsair's stock fan connected to the CPU Fan connector on my motherboard. I am getting a fan controller, and was going to use it to control not only the new Ultra Kaze's I am getting but also the four other fans that are in my case. Does a motherboard NEED a fan plugged into the CPU Fan connector? Like will it not boot if there is nothing connected to it?

No, it doesn't need to have a fan connected.


----------



## Prugor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Seanicy* 
Here is a couple pics me unboxing my, Feser / Noiseblocker Triebwerk 55mm 1800RPM fans. I will post up some more shots of them once I get these babies installed. I hope my temps will be lower now after spending $80 on two fans...


































+rep

Ive got two on my H50 and I love them. They are nice and quite, but move a ton of air. 6x32 2 1/2 works perfect, any extra use some washers and some nuts to secure it to whatever mount you decide to go with if its an intake infront of the case. I used a gutted kama rafter from scythe.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


Originally Posted by *zefs* 
No, it doesn't need to have a fan connected.

Cool thanks!


----------



## Reactions

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Reactions*


Hey, my Scythe GentleTyphoons 1850 RPM arrive tomorrow so I'm going to rearrange the cooling situation in my 800D. I'm planning on running the H50 as exhast with P/P and mount 2x Scythe GentleTyphoon's (800RPM, got wrong from store in the first place) in adittion to the Corsair H50 Stock fan in the top of the case where you can mount 3x 120mm fans. Do you think that'll be ok? Like
Corsair H50 Stock Fan - GentleTyphoon 800 RPM - GentleTyphoon 800RPM # 2 
Mounted in the top of the case where you can fit a radiator.
I also wonder if I should mount the three fans as intake since I already got exhaust with the H50 rad or if I should mount those as exhaust too or if I should mix so some of them is exhaust and one is intake or something. Please help







I don't have any other fans than 2x GentleTyphoon 1850 RPM (for P/P), 2x GentleTyphoon 800RPM (hoping that these can be used as casefans as I've told you and the H50 stock fan. I also got the 140 mm fan that I had to remove to mount the H50 rad, any ideas where I can place that?
{Reactions}


Can someone help me with this? :/


----------



## Xraven771

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zefs*


No, it doesn't need to have a fan connected.


Dosent need one but its it recommended for a P/P config improves temps alot







im trying to work out if its better for intake or exhaust on the CM HAF


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Seanicy*


Here is a couple pics me unboxing my, Feser / Noiseblocker Triebwerk 55mm 1800RPM fans. I will post up some more shots of them once I get these babies installed. I hope my temps will be lower now after spending $80 on two fans...



































I believe I was the first one to use these fans on an H50, at least around here. I'm sure you'll enjoy, they really are fantastic!


----------



## Seanicy

Well guys I got my Noiseblocker fans installed yesterday and these babies helped shave off 9c while under full load in Linx. Living in Florida with the summer heat, these fans really help alot. Here are some pics of them installed. I didn't have time yesterday to try and find long enough screws for the shrouds so I just installed these guys to see how they perform.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Seanicy* 
Well guys I got my Noiseblocker fans installed yesterday and these babies helped shave off 9c while under full load in Linx. Living in Florida with the summer heat, these fans really help alot. Here are some pics of them installed. I didn't have time yesterday to try and find long enough screws for the shrouds so I just installed these guys to see how they perform.


Damn, those are some MASSIVE fans!


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demented*


Hey, I just had a thought. Currently I have the Corsair's stock fan connected to the CPU Fan connector on my motherboard. I am getting a fan controller, and was going to use it to control not only the new Ultra Kaze's I am getting but also the four other fans that are in my case. Does a motherboard NEED a fan plugged into the CPU Fan connector? Like will it not boot if there is nothing connected to it?


No, you don't "NEED" a fan plugged into the CPU Fan header. That said, you will have to go into BIOS though and disable the header, otherwise, it'll beep and prompt you that nothing is connected.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demented*


Damn, those are some MASSIVE fans!


It's because of the built-in shroud design.


----------



## Seanicy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Demented* 
Damn, those are some MASSIVE fans!

LOL yep, they are huge, 55mm thick. Now the fun part, to find screws to fit my shrouds.


----------



## zefs

Wow, when spending 75 eu for H50 + 60 eu for these Noiseblocker someone might start thinking about going full water instead


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *zefs* 
Wow, when spending 75 eu for H50 + 60 eu for these Noiseblocker someone might start thinking about going full water instead









That's what I did


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Seanicy*


LOL yep, they are huge, 55mm thick. Now the fun part, to find screws to fit my shrouds.










You may have luck looking at Lowes Hardware store. I found some up to 6/32 - 3" screws there. They're silver in color and come like 2 in a bag I believe.


----------



## zefs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iGuitarGuy*


That's what I did










It was a trap, got you!


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reactions* 
Can someone help me with this? :/

I looked up your case couldn't really figure out how the airflow is exactly suppose to work so really don't know what exactly to tell you. Most cases now draw air in from the front and then vent it out the back/top but the Corair Obsidian 800D I didn't see any front fans at all so hopefully someone else with the same case can offer some suggestions.


----------



## Seanicy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *zefs* 
Wow, when spending 75 eu for H50 + 60 eu for these Noiseblocker someone might start thinking about going full water instead









I am too much of a WC noob to buy a full WC kit and set it up myself. Also all the stories I hear about how their PC's got eaten by the loop, can't risk it with the amount of money already invested. Now with the H50 if it leaks or anything happens I am covered till the 2 years is up. You don't get that kind of assurance with custom loops...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
You may have luck looking at Lowes Hardware store. I found some up to 6/32 - 3" screws there. They're silver in color and come like 2 in a bag I believe.

I screwed up and used 8/32 threaded screws for my 38mm fans with shrouds setup and now can't use any 6/32 thread screws. I might be in better shape with the 8's anyway. When I went to Home Depot for 6/32 screws, all they had were the 8/32 X 2 1/2". They worked so I used them.

If I were to add 2 X 38mm shrouds to the mix on each fan, do you think having it like that will yield better temps than having just one? I got a couple more NZXT case fans laying around I can gut out and use for shrouds.


----------



## Kona1169

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I got GT's myself they are quieter than my stock case fans from my In-Win Fanqua case. Shrouds help because they eliminate the "dead zone" you get when the fan is right on top of the radiator because of the middle motor where there is obviously no fan blades the 25-35mm shroud makes it so the full 120mm of the radiator is getting air. The other plus of a shroud is it reduces noise of the fan(s) because they don't have the air sorta pushing back at them from being so close to the radiator.


what speed are your gt's though? as i said i can only get the 1450rpm ones.

where do you get the shrouds though? make them?i guess the pull fan doesnt absolutely need to have a shroud on it right as its pulling. whereas the push one needs one as you said it would have blowback without it right?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kona1169* 
what speed are your gt's though? as i said i can only get the 1450rpm ones.

where do you get the shrouds though? make them?i guess the pull fan doesnt absolutely need to have a shroud on it right as its pulling. whereas the push one needs one as you said it would have blowback without it right?

I have GT 1850rpm fans.

I made shrouds from some old 120mm fans real simple cut out the 4 places that the motor and assembly attach to the housing and then I filed them down and smoothed the whole thing out.

Of course the "push" fan having a shroud helps more than the "pull" fan not only the blowback noise but also eliminates the dead zone from the center/motor.

Where are you that you can't order GT 1850rpm fans?
If you tell where you are maybe someone can help you out to find a location you can purchase them from.


----------



## Demented

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I have GT 1850rpm fans.

I made shrouds from some old 120mm fans real simple cut out the 4 places that the motor and assembly attach to the housing and then I filed them down and smoothed the whole thing out.

Of course the "push" fan having a shroud helps more than the "pull" fan not only the blowback noise but also eliminates the dead zone from the center/motor.

Where are you that you can't order GT 1850rpm fans? 
If you tell where you are maybe someone can help you out to find a location you can purchase them from.


I planned on making two shrouds out of 25mm fans for two Ultra Kaze 3000RPM fans, but have read that 34mm is the sweet spot to reduce the 'dead zone'. So, since it's better to have a shroud on the push rather than the pull, would I be better off using both 25mm shrouds on the push side, and nothing on the pull? Or is the dead zone minimal enough to still do one shroud on each?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Demented* 
I planned on making two shrouds out of 25mm fans for two Ultra Kaze 3000RPM fans, but have read that 34mm is the sweet spot to reduce the 'dead zone'. So, since it's better to have a shroud on the push rather than the pull, would I be better off using both 25mm shrouds on the push side, and nothing on the pull? Or is the dead zone minimal enough to still do one shroud on each?

Have also heard the 34mm are the best to use but kind of uncommon to say the least. Using 2x25mm shrouds would put you at 50mm I think that would hinder more than help cause of the distance. I tried mine with no shrouds and then one shroud on the push then on both and seen at least a 1c difference for the better between all of them.


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
I have GT 1850rpm fans.

I made shrouds from some old 120mm fans real simple cut out the 4 places that the motor and assembly attach to the housing and then I filed them down and smoothed the whole thing out.

Of course the "push" fan having a shroud helps more than the "pull" fan not only the blowback noise but also eliminates the dead zone from the center/motor.

Where are you that you can't order GT 1850rpm fans?
If you tell where you are maybe someone can help you out to find a location you can purchase them from.

Did your temps go down with shrouds for GTs? I have GTs which is only giving me -1c over the stock corsair fan & CM R4 @ full load

Do you think shrouds will lower my temps some more?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Seanicy* 
If I were to add 2 X 38mm shrouds to the mix on each fan, do you think having it like that will yield better temps than having just one? I got a couple more NZXT case fans laying around I can gut out and use for shrouds.

In your situation, I honestly don't think adding additional shrouds will help much. The reason being, those Triebwerk 122's have the built-in shroud which makes it kind of nice and advantageous over the others that have to add them separately. I had been following and reading up on shroud performance a few months back and having too much (or little) space can actually decrease your performance. Several tests have shown that the optimal or "sweet spot" should be somewhere at the ~30mm mark. Adding a 25mm or 38mm shroud onto your already existing Feser's w/ built-in shroud I think would create too large of an air gap. Even if it did give maybe a 1c drop, there comes a point where you have to ask yourself, is it really worth adding another 76mm of space (2x38mm shrouds) for such a small gain (if any at all)?

Again, this is just advice for your specific case, with the fans that you're running. Hopefully this was helpful.


----------



## Kona1169

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I have GT 1850rpm fans.

I made shrouds from some old 120mm fans real simple cut out the 4 places that the motor and assembly attach to the housing and then I filed them down and smoothed the whole thing out.

Of course the "push" fan having a shroud helps more than the "pull" fan not only the blowback noise but also eliminates the dead zone from the center/motor.

Where are you that you can't order GT 1850rpm fans? 
If you tell where you are maybe someone can help you out to find a location you can purchase them from.


their sold out on newegg.ca but i need to order some other stuff like ram as i fried the one of the ram modules. mind you though a 1850 rmp fan runs louder than my antec fans. i will refuse to run my antec fans past the low setting which i think is around 1200 to 1500rpm. wouldnt i be better off just getting the 1450's cause the stats show they produce around the same db as the antecs on low?


----------



## Misfire

Here's my H50! I used to laugh at people when they would talk about wtercooling comp's! Doggone it! It's the only way to go for me now! It's such a cool setup to have the pump on the processor! not only are you dropping the temp of the comp, but also the room your in! I won't forget the day I was hard gaming for a few hour's, got up for a beverage and returned to the room, the whole room was proble 15deg hotter than the rest of the house! It was HOT! lol.
So here's my setup, my ole window's 98 case is so [email protected]#& big! I could not find the right spot! But I was gonna make it work! and in the process with the
clear nylon hose, I was able to squese it between the fins of the NB cooling block! and it does make a differance, sorry bout picture's, made with phone,
Misfire out.


----------



## digital_steve

I wish i knew ennough about watercooling to go a proper setup now; i'd love to get a waterblock for my 5970 and have everything running from one system


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kona1169* 
their sold out on newegg.ca but i need to order some other stuff like ram as i fried the one of the ram modules. mind you though a 1850 rmp fan runs louder than my antec fans. i will refuse to run my antec fans past the low setting which i think is around 1200 to 1500rpm. wouldnt i be better off just getting the 1450's cause the stats show they produce around the same db as the antecs on low?

First off you can't always believe stats listed by the manufacturer according to manufacturer stats CoolerMaster R4 fans should be quieter than GT's but they are like 3x louder. There is always a trade off of sound vs cooling. My stock case fans are 1200rpm fans and I have added some Akasa Apache 1300rpm fans I tried first for the H50 p/p setup that simply didn't do the job the 1850rpm GT's are quieter than the 1200rpm stock In-Win Fanqua fans(the Akasa Apache fans are silent as long as I don't have my ear right on the case). If you have your antec case fans dialed down to lesser rpm's then you could do the same for the GT 1850rpm fans if they where too loud though I doubt they would be louder than your stock fans. I only really hear air flowing and no noise of the fans themselves at all and most of the time playing music or game sounds or whatever even on very low no way I could hear the little noise from the fans/air movement.


----------



## DoubleX

heres mine 3 of these baby


----------



## trivium nate

why do you have 3?


----------



## Demented

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trivium nate*


why do you have 3?


Maybe because he has three computers?


----------



## DoubleX

yea lol, i love it so much that i use it for all my comps, keeps oc nice and keeps temp away


----------



## kitekrazy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demented*


Maybe because he has three computers?










 If you look at the photos they are 3 different systems.

I've got one mounted with a Phenom II 955 Black on an Asus M3N78 Pro. I get this isn't really a good over clocking board.

I'm thinking of getting another one for my Phenom II 940, Asus M4A77D. I've ordered some Scythe 120 x 12mm fans. I can't install an H50 in the rear or a 120mm x 25mm fan on top, The thin Scythes should make it possible to mount an H50 from the top. At least with AMD Overdrive it helps for idiots to overclock like me.


----------



## DoubleX

all my h50 is mounted rear for best airflow, but the last one i had to mount it top the case would not fit a h50 in the rear, thats a down side for the nxzt beta evo


----------



## kitekrazy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DoubleX* 
all my h50 is mounted rear for best airflow, but the last one i had to mount it top the case would not fit a h50 in the rear, thats a down side for the nxzt beta evo










Why wouldn't it fit in the rear? I have that case and it mounts in the rear just fine.


----------



## DoubleX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kitekrazy* 
Why wouldn't it fit in the rear? I have that case and it mounts in the rear just fine.

only way to mount to rear is to do pull only, because am using the p45 gigabyte mobo the cpu socket is close to the rear, the rear mount only fits a 120mm fan, h50 rad is a little bigger than 120mm, more like 140mmx120mm i tried to do push and pull but as i was saying the cpu socket being too close the pump will block the push fan, and i didnt want to mount it outside of the case so i had to go with top


----------



## Kona1169

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
First off you can't always believe stats listed by the manufacturer according to manufacturer stats CoolerMaster R4 fans should be quieter than GT's but they are like 3x louder. There is always a trade off of sound vs cooling. My stock case fans are 1200rpm fans and I have added some Akasa Apache 1300rpm fans I tried first for the H50 p/p setup that simply didn't do the job the 1850rpm GT's are quieter than the 1200rpm stock In-Win Fanqua fans(the Akasa Apache fans are silent as long as I don't have my ear right on the case). If you have your antec case fans dialed down to lesser rpm's then you could do the same for the GT 1850rpm fans if they where too loud though I doubt they would be louder than your stock fans. I only really hear air flowing and no noise of the fans themselves at all and most of the time playing music or game sounds or whatever even on very low no way I could hear the little noise from the fans/air movement.

ya true. the antec fans are antec tricool so they dont run off the mobo but off the PSU power alone. they have a 3 speed switch that changed them and i cannot stand them on medium. so i looked up a benchmark on the fans and on low they run 800rpm @21cfm @ 20db so i dont want louder than that ya know? so wouldnt the 1450's be fine as they run 21 db? i think those fans blow like 50cfm as well. do you still think its better to go the 1850rpm fans though cause they would probly be louder right


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kona1169* 
ya true. the antec fans are antec tricool so they dont run off the mobo but off the PSU power alone. they have a 3 speed switch that changed them and i cannot stand them on medium. so i looked up a benchmark on the fans and on low they run 800rpm @21cfm @ 20db so i dont want louder than that ya know? so wouldnt the 1450's be fine as they run 21 db? i think those fans blow like 50cfm as well. do you still think its better to go the 1850rpm fans though cause they would probly be louder right

It just comes down to if your are happy with your stock H50 temps if you are two GT 1450 fans and a shroud or two will lower it by a little with no db increase.

The 1450rpm are 50cfm which is exactly what the stock Corsair fan is. Are you happy with the cooling the stock fan gives? Cause if you aren't having two 1450 GT's is only going to lower your current temps by the very extreme 6-7c even with shrouds. I lowered my temps by 18c from stock.

We both have the same CPU my H50 stock temps with no OC Prime95 blended where 66c IMO way too high I shut down Prime95 quick after getting those readings. I changed to the Akasa Apache 1300rpm 57cfm(higher than stock fan) with a p/p setup and only got down to 60c still too close to the max 62c that I don't want to be close to. I changed to the GT 1850rpm fans and went down to 50c added the shrouds and now it is 46-48c.

Different motherboards and other factors of course make a difference too your temps may be lower than mine by default and stock H50 works great for you for me no way it would work out.

Good luck with your decision on fans. It took me about a month to get mine all sorted out.


----------



## Kona1169

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
It just comes down to if your are happy with your stock H50 temps if you are two GT 1450 fans and a shroud or two will lower it by a little with no db increase.

The 1450rpm are 50cfm which is exactly what the stock Corsair fan is. Are you happy with the cooling the stock fan gives? Cause if you aren't having two 1450 GT's is only going to lower your current temps by the very extreme 6-7c even with shrouds. I lowered my temps by 18c from stock.

We both have the same CPU my H50 stock temps with no OC Prime95 blended where 66c IMO way too high I shut down Prime95 quick after getting those readings. I changed to the Akasa Apache 1300rpm 57cfm(higher than stock fan) with a p/p setup and only got down to 60c still too close to the max 62c that I don't want to be close to. I changed to the GT 1850rpm fans and went down to 50c added the shrouds and now it is 46-48c.

Different motherboards and other factors of course make a difference too your temps may be lower than mine by default and stock H50 works great for you for me no way it would work out.

Good luck with your decision on fans. It took me about a month to get mine all sorted out.









wow.. i was running 60's with the stock cooler lol. i dont know if this matters but i ran about 15 minutes of prime and my temps only went to 35c
my idles are 21-26

the more you talk about those 1850's the more i want them lol. i'd probly run epu anyways so the fans would run around 800 rpm or so but i guess if it heated up alot it has more headroom to raise its rpm. the only problem is im running a computer with corrupt ram so it isnt running correctly ya kno? maybe if i wait a week they might 1850's might come in who knows or i could always email egg..

is one shroud enough? or should i have one after the rad? i dont know if that will fit though it. IMO that would also make the cooler less efficient because it would be blowing more air into the top bay which is closed off


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kona1169* 
wow.. i was running 60's with the stock cooler lol. i dont know if this matters but i ran about 15 minutes of prime and my temps only went to 35c
my idles are 21-26

the more you talk about those 1850's the more i want them lol. i'd probly run epu anyways so the fans would run around 800 rpm or so but i guess if it heated up alot it has more headroom to raise its rpm. the only problem is im running a computer with corrupt ram so it isnt running correctly ya kno? maybe if i wait a week they might 1850's might come in who knows or i could always email egg..

is one shroud enough? or should i have one after the rad? i dont know if that will fit though it. IMO that would also make the cooler less efficient because it would be blowing more air into the top bay which is closed off

If you don't have the room for the extra shroud no big deal. I moved my fans and made some custom fabricated brackets to hold my fans, shrouds and radiator in my front drive bays so I have room. I had mine originally at the back of my case because of the space between H50 radiator, fan and the pump I couldn't put even one shroud on without cutting holes in my case to move the radiator outside the case and would've had to take the tubes off from the radiator too which I don't want to do. Just put the shroud with the "push" fan and it will do the most good.

I wanted the same as you to not increase the noise of my computer at all by adding fans for the H50 because I use my computer for most everything from gaming to everyday TV watching. If I have everything off and no one else around but me making noise like I said I can hear the GT 1850's but not really the motor noise of the fan just air movement. For me at least even when I am right on top of them with case open so I can hear them they do not make an annoying sound at all they are a lot different than other fans noise.

If you need help with anything else feel free to ask. Don't forget you will also need longer screws to go through the fan/shroud.


----------



## malik22

Hi guys does this cool better then a Thermalright ultra 120 with I7s?


----------



## Iroh

I would imagine that depends on if the ultra 120 was lapped and pressure modded. In push/pull with decent fans it seems to be similar to the megatron.

Had to pull mine off. Every time I would load it the thing would gurgle as the temps went up so I'm going to do some testing before it goes back in. Maybe change the orientation of the pump. Besides, I want new fans for it anyways. It's warm in here almost all the time, a fairly constant 80F, and with the H50 the cpu at 3.6/1.38v was loading at 51C. Put the stock HSF back on, loads at 55C.







I think I could vastly improve on that with another shroud and better fans.

The new 2002 BIOS for my mobo is a godsend. The Q-Fan now supports idle fan speeds up to 48C and full at 51C, so I can run CnQ off and not kick up the fan. It just purrs at 2700 all day, even when I'm running around as Commander Shepard.

Not digging 5000 rpm under full load though







I will be happy to get the h50 back in.


----------



## trilo

Hey fellow H50 modders and owners. I have had the pleasure of reading your experiences this past week it helped me to know that the H50 is the way to go for a starter water cooler.

Here is the breakdown of my results after I setup my H50.
With H50 in push pull fan/sh/rad/sh/fan/exit funnel
(note had a 1 degree drop when added funnel for exit.)

Overclocked to 3.20 ghz 30 idle 39 max load
ram oc 1600 to 2244mhz with old i7 cpu airfan cooling via ruberband hold on








note: I do not have my sheet with ram oc number on me at work oc might be a little higher on it.

fyi:
Stock fan Pre H50: 29-30 idle 35-39 load 40-45heavy load

Its important to note that as of 335 post on this thread I have not seen anyone use an exit shroud from trailing fan on push pull setup.
I cut the top off an old cdr spindle and used alumium tape to match it up on the cosair trailing fan it is almost a perfect match for 120mm the tape seals it up nicely. This goes to the grill I have cut out in to cover my 3, 5 1/2 bays I have my push pull setp in. It looks pro. I will post pics soon I believe the community would enjoy seeing another good mod for H50.

I have a Ultra fan controller, Ram fan cooler and cold cathodes on the way from amazon should be here next week.

trilo


----------



## Iroh

Since I'm in process for re-doing my fan setup... hmm that seems like a very good idea. Make a duct out of it.

LOL @ 3" of stuff hanging out the back of the case!


----------



## trilo

Yeah after reading all the posts I found this thread to be an excellent source of info for the would be H50 owner. It was the only thing I could think of that I needed as I had too much open space and blowback into the case without it. And everyone has as cdr spindel cover so its a great addition for all setting up on exit.

trilo


----------



## Demented

Yeah I was thinking of doing a funnel type thing with mine when I get my Kaze's. Not something like full ducting, but mainly a directional thing keeping the air going towards the top 200mm exhaust fan in my Antec 900. I figure that way I can still have my motherboard components (north and south bridges) keep cool with my side intake fan, and possibly an Antec spot cool.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trilo*


Yeah after reading all the posts I found this thread to be an excellent source of info for the would be H50 owner. It was the only thing I could think of that I needed as I had too much open space and blowback into the case without it. And everyone has as cdr spindel cover so its a great addition for all setting up on exit.

trilo


We like pictures please to back up your statements or it never happened.


----------



## cruiselax

I'm sure this has been asked a thousand times but what are some good fans for push/pull for the H50?

I'm also interested if you push/pull guys also replaced the stock fan along with it...thanks!


----------



## DoubleX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cruiselax*


I'm sure this has been asked a thousand times but what are some good fans for push/pull for the H50?

I'm also interested if you push/pull guys also replaced the stock fan along with it...thanks!


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103060


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *malik22*


Hi guys does this cool better then a Thermalright ultra 120 with I7s?


Not in my experience with it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


We like pictures please to back up your statements or it never happened.










Lol there's no way he's only getting an increase of 9C under load. I don't think we're going to be seeing any pictures.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yate Loon D12SH-12(F)s' or High Speed Silents to the laypeople.









And yes I'm replacing the stock fan and making it a shroud.







lol

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *cruiselax*


I'm sure this has been asked a thousand times but what are some good fans for push/pull for the H50?

I'm also interested if you push/pull guys also replaced the stock fan along with it...thanks!


----------



## Turgin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cruiselax* 
I'm sure this has been asked a thousand times but what are some good fans for push/pull for the H50?

I'm also interested if you push/pull guys also replaced the stock fan along with it...thanks!

You'll get a lot of answers to this one. Scythe Gentle Typhoon's are common and work well I understand. As do Coolermaster R4s and Yate Loons it seems.

Me, personally, I prefer more robust fans and went with a single San Ace H101 as a push fan with a 38mm shroud. I have load temps just as good as others with 2 of the above mentioned less expensive fans. Yes, the H101 is a little louder than some fans, but you'll be hard pressed to beat the performance to noise level.

I was also very tempted by the Feser Triebwerk TK-122 fans due to the built in shroud and the sheer coolness factor of that fan. Anyway, those are my suggestions.

San Ace 9G1212H101 *$22.99* link

Feser/Noiseblocker Triebwerk TK-122 *$34.95* link


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cruiselax* 
I'm sure this has been asked a thousand times but what are some good fans for push/pull for the H50?

I'm also interested if you push/pull guys also replaced the stock fan along with it...thanks!

First we have to know how loud your willing to go to keep things cool. If noise isn't an issue then there's a lot of crazy rpm fans you can get if it is an issue there there is a totally different set of fan suggestions.


----------



## TweakerNoob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Turgin*


I was also very tempted by the Feser Triebwerk TK-122 fans due to the built in shroud and the sheer coolness factor of that fan. Anyway, those are my suggestions.


I've got two of these sitting here on my desk. What do you mean by built in shroud? I don't see any such animal here. They (TFC) make a shroud add-on that matches this fan. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24275. There is still a dead spot with these fans, albeit maybe a bit less than your typical 120mmx25mm, but there is no built in shroud.

I really wish they had a 4 pin version.


----------



## vietrice89

Can someone tell me what the best setup with this in a cm690 would be?
Where should I put it? back? front? top? bottom?
Fan rad fan? or shroud?

Thanks!


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TweakerNoob* 
I've got two of these sitting here on my desk. What do you mean by built in shroud? I don't see any such animal here. They (TFC) make a shroud add-on that matches this fan. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24275. There is still a dead spot with these fans, albeit maybe a bit less than your typical 120mmx25mm, but there is no built in shroud.

I really wish they had a 4 pin version.

Yes, the Feser Triebwerk 121/122 Fans have built in shroud's (which include the 4-PIN Molex Power that you were asking about). Note, the 120x120x55mm dimensions. It gives you approximately a 30mm shroud, 25mm fan. There is also the TFC/Xtender shrouds, which are 31mm in depth. Both are good products.


----------



## Turgin

^^ this. Every review of the TK-121/122 says it has a thin shroud on the intake side. Read Killhouse's testing thread here


----------



## kitekrazy

The H50 could only fit in my EVO Beta. I have a push pull with a Scythe 120 x 14 mm fan. I wanted to put the H50 in my Thermaltake V3 over head but the RAM clamps are still in the way.

But now I have a problem. I might remove the push pull since I'm getting temps in the 50's. I might just mount another fan in the top. At the top it will still be moving air from the radiator.

This all started when my M3N78 Pro board didn't like my Phenom 955. So I swapped it with a machine running Phenom 940. It runs fine now. (I wanted to do that in the first place)

I had to remove the paste from the H50. That was good stuff. I put on some Antec Reference I've had for a while. I've got some OCZ Freeze that maybe I should try. The other options is to drive to Tiger and get another brand of grease. Shame they don't have Shin Etsu.


----------



## morphus1

No one is commenting on my case mod so im gonna post here in hopes of appreciation.







[/IMG]


----------



## dadon4sho

super stupid question.
i my mobo is the msi 890gxm-g65 and i can figure out where to plug in the cable to give the water pump power. 
Attached is a picture of the mobo PLEASE circle where this is supposed to go.

THANKS IN ADVANCE!









Attachment 159704


----------



## ljason8eg

The fan header right above the first black DIMM slot.


----------



## Ceadderman

Which is the mod you want appreciation for? The Temp gauge installed in the door? The Plexi? Or the modded H50 with the ROG badge over the Corsair logo?









All are pretty nice but how did your door get those scratches? Powdercoat is some pretty resilient paint.









Not bad though.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *morphus1*


No one is commenting on my case mod so im gonna post here in hopes of appreciation.







[/IMG]


----------



## dadon4sho

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ljason8eg*


The fan header right above the first black DIMM slot.


that s for the fan i need the one for the water pump.
thanks though


----------



## Ceadderman

That IS the PUMP hookup. You plug it into your CPU fan hookup and THAT is it.









The fan can go anywhere else on the board. That pump has to have a consistent speed. Also it should have a long enough lead to go anywhere else on your Board.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *dadon4sho*


that s for the fan i need the one for the water pump.
thanks though


----------



## dadon4sho

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


That IS the PUMP hookup. You plug it into your CPU fan hookup and THAT is it.









The fan can go anywhere else on the board. That pump has to have a consistent speed. Also it should have a long enough lead to go anywhere else on your Board.









~Ceadder










shows you how little i know. its my 1st build.
i really do appreciate the help! i can already tell im going to love the site!


----------



## TweakerNoob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Yes, the Feser Triebwerk 121/122 Fans have built in shroud's (which include the 4-PIN Molex Power that you were asking about). Note, the 120x120x55mm dimensions. It gives you approximately a 30mm shroud, 25mm fan. There is also the TFC/Xtender shrouds, which are 31mm in depth. Both are good products.


Never said anything about molex...i was referring to PWM. Thought that was a duh here..my bad. I will be more specific next time. I posted a link to the shroud your referring to in my op. Like I said, I got two of these sitting here, I am aware of their dimensions.


----------



## Ceadderman

No problem man, if you have questions you really should either consult the manual or you can look at this...

How to install the Corsair Coolingâ„¢ Hydro Series H50 CPU cooler 

This is how I learned to set up my system, mostly.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *dadon4sho*


shows you how little i know. its my 1st build.
i really do appreciate the help! i can already tell im going to love the site!


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TweakerNoob*


Never said anything about molex...i was referring to PWM. Thought that was a duh here..my bad. I will be more specific next time. I posted a link to the shroud your referring to in my op. Like I said, I got two of these sitting here, I am aware of their dimensions.


Yep, I own a few myself. Great products!


----------



## TweakerNoob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Turgin*


^^ this. Every review of the TK-121/122 says it has a thin shroud on the intake side. Read Killhouse's testing thread here


Yah I had looked at that already tks. Those pics make my eyes hurt...bluuurrry.

Anyhow, approx 10mm of "shroud" space on the fan intake side will not do diddly for radiator performance, maybe a smidge on the pull side, idk.

These fans have just as big as dead space as any fan in push config. The fan motor is pretty much flush with the edge of the fan case by my eyes. It will however help eliminate some, very little, whining when used as a intake case fan (space is between fan blades and case).

They are very, very nice fans but in context to this discussion thread aka water cooling, there is no shroud built in that will effect radiator performance on the push side.


----------



## Icekilla

Just wanted to share what a friend of mine managed to do with his H50 and an i7 980x








YouTube- Intel Burn Test Corsair H50


----------



## dadon4sho

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


No problem man, if you have questions you really should either consult the manual or you can look at this...

How to install the Corsair Cooling™ Hydro Series H50 CPU cooler 

This is how I learned to set up my system, mostly.









~Ceadder
































Thats the video i watched... this is why im so confused... he plugged in the fan cable on the slot right above the DIMM slot. BUT that other cable (water pump one) all he says is plug it in to the closes header... and cuz im such a freaking n00b i dont know what a header is or where is at on my mobo thats why i attached the pic of the mobo. IM more of a visual type of guy lol!


----------



## Ceadderman

That's not true. It's truly dependant on the CFM of the Pusher you are using. The stock Corsair fan is roughly 50 CFM. My Yate Loon High Speed Silents are rated at 88 CFM. Now tell me, if I installed my fan and used a pre-made shroud, would it not affect the performance of the Rad?









As I'm pointing out alot of this is dependant on the fan you are using. If I used Yate Loon Low Speeds', then no it would not affect the performance of the Rad. Now see, I'm going to use two of the High Speeds in Push/Pull with a shroud after the Push fan which should increase the volume of flow from the Puller since it will be driven harder by the shrouded Pusher.

Are there dead spots? Yes there are. Roughly 45cm^2 worth of dead spots per fan. No fan is free of them because directly behind the hub is the dead space. But putting a shroud behind it allows the space to shrink, thereby allowing the fan to increase the performance of the Rad. And again how much of an increase is dependent on the fans being used.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *TweakerNoob*


They are very, very nice fans but in context to this discussion thread aka water cooling, *there is no shroud built in that will affect radiator performance on the push side*.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dadon4sho*























Thats the video i watched... this is why im so confused... he plugged in the fan cable on the slot right above the DIMM slot. BUT that other cable (water pump one) all he says is plug it in to the closes header... and cuz im such a freaking n00b i dont know what a header is or where is at on my mobo thats why i attached the pic of the mobo. IM more of a visual type of guy lol!


A fan header is simply the spot that you plug your fan into on the motherboard. (typically seen 3-pin fan headers). So basically, you just plug your pump into the fan header labeled "CPU_FAN" on the motherboard, which in your case, is located right above the 4th dimm slot. The Fan would get plugged into any of the remaining fan headers on your motherboard. It doesn't matter which one.


----------



## dadon4sho

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
A fan header is simply the spot that you plug your fan into on the motherboard. (typically seen 3-pin fan headers). So basically, you just plug your pump into the fan header labeled "CPU_FAN" on the motherboard, which in your case, is located right above the 4th dimm slot. The Fan would get plugged into any of the remaining fan headers on your motherboard. It doesn't matter which one.

good old english I LOVE IT!
THANKS!

repped!


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
A fan header is simply the spot that you plug your fan into on the motherboard. (typically seen 3-pin fan headers). So basically, you just plug your pump into the fan header labeled "CPU_FAN" on the motherboard, which in your case, is located right above the 4th dimm slot. The Fan would get plugged into any of the remaining fan headers on your motherboard. It doesn't matter which one.

Actually you should plug your pump into any other header other than the "CPU_FAN" Usually the CPU header is a 4 pin and all the others are 3 pin headers. The H50 stock fan has a 4 pin for the fan and a 3 pin for the pump so just by that it tells you where each should go. You just want to make sure that you disable anything in your bios like cool and quiet or anything else that might lower the rpm of the fan or the pump.


----------



## Ceadderman

This is correct...

My apologies for mixing the two up. It's been a few months since I saw the vid I just posted and this is what Jeff was stating in it.









At least it's not too big a gaff.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Actually you should plug your pump into any other header other than the "CPU_FAN" Usually the CPU header is a 4 pin and all the others are 3 pin headers. The H50 stock fan has a 4 pin for the fan and a 3 pin for the pump so just by that it tells you where each should go. You just want to make sure that you disable anything in your bios like cool and quiet or anything else that might lower the rpm of the fan or the pump.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Actually you should plug your pump into any other header other than the "CPU_FAN" Usually the CPU header is a 4 pin and all the others are 3 pin headers. The H50 stock fan has a 4 pin for the fan and a 3 pin for the pump so just by that it tells you where each should go. You just want to make sure that you disable anything in your bios like cool and quiet or anything else that might lower the rpm of the fan or the pump.


In all honesty, it really doesn't matter where he plugs the pump/fan into, they could go anywhere. As long as he sets in BIOS that the header he plugs the pump into is running at 100%, he'll be fine. But yes, he could take advantage of the 4-pin PWM, but, most H50 owners will tend to just run their stock Corsair fans at 100% full speed and not let the motherboard control it.

Good advice though for those that want to use PWM.


----------



## zefs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *morphus1*


No one is commenting on my case mod so im gonna post here in hopes of appreciation.


+rep for the beer.
No, I am joking really nice work!








Maybe post a night pic also?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *morphus1*


No one is commenting on my case mod so im gonna post here in hopes of appreciation.


Nice case mods. Huge side-window and Built-in Temp Reader. I bet sleeving that PSU was a real joy!









Thumbs up on the beer! lol


----------



## chris14029

its been along time since i have been on here
my h50 is still cooling as well as it did the first day


----------



## TweakerNoob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


That's not true. It's truly dependant on the CFM of the Pusher you are using. The stock Corsair fan is roughly 50 CFM. My Yate Loon High Speed Silents are rated at 88 CFM. Now tell me, if I installed my fan and used a pre-made shroud, would it not affect the performance of the Rad?









As I'm pointing out alot of this is dependant on the fan you are using. If I used Yate Loon Low Speeds', then no it would not affect the performance of the Rad. Now see, I'm going to use two of the High Speeds in Push/Pull with a shroud after the Push fan which should increase the volume of flow from the Puller since it will be driven harder by the shrouded Pusher.

Are there dead spots? Yes there are. Roughly 45cm^2 worth of dead spots per fan. No fan is free of them because directly behind the hub is the dead space. But putting a shroud behind it allows the space to shrink, thereby allowing the fan to increase the performance of the Rad. And again how much of an increase is dependent on the fans being used.









~Ceadder










Sorry man, I am not following you here 100%. Let me try restating my hypothesis. Wouldn't be the first time I was less than clear.

What I was getting at is this, the TK-122 is optimized for use as a radiator pull fan, hence the gap on the pull side. The motor is roughly flush to the edge of the fan housing on the push side, the side that goes to the rad when used as a push. What I am saying is "we" are not getting any kind of "shroud" effect on the push side of the fan up against the rad. It is a dead spot just like every other fan. There has to be a physical shroud added to eliminate the dead spot.

Now, these are some serious kick ass fans (3.380 H20 max static pressure) so it is quite likely these will perform better than x-fan both without a shroud but there is still no shroud built into the TK-122's that would benefit performance in push. -Jeff


----------



## Ceadderman

Aha, gotcha. That makes better sense now. Thanks for clearing that up.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *TweakerNoob*


Sorry man, I am not following you here 100%. Let me try restating my hypothesis. Wouldn't be the first time I was less than clear.

What I was getting at is this, the TK-122 is optimized for use as a radiator pull fan, hence the gap on the pull side. The motor is roughly flush to the edge of the fan housing on the push side, the side that goes to the rad when used as a push. What I am saying is "we" are not getting any kind of "shroud" effect on the push side of the fan up against the rad. It is a dead spot just like every other fan. There has to be a physical shroud added to eliminate the dead spot.

Now, these are some serious kick ass fans (3.380 H20 max static pressure) so it is quite likely these will perform better than x-fan both without a shroud but there is still no shroud built into the TK-122's that would benefit performance in push. -Jeff


----------



## navit

In the last 2 days my cpu temps have jumped up about 4-5c for no explainable reason. My basement stays about 74f, I am running a p/p with 2 cr4's, Just trying to understand why, even my hd's have jumped, video card has jumped as well but not really worried about that.

Any thoughts as to why?

Edit: Yes they still seem ok and nothing gets to hot on load, just tring to understand.


----------



## zefs

Who cares, lol you've got 19C idle on cpu and 29C idle on 5870.
My cpu also went up about 5 degrees despite having the same ambients, weird.


----------



## navit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *zefs* 
Who cares, lol you've got 19C idle on cpu and 29C idle on 5870.
My cpu also went up about 5 degrees despite having the same ambients, weird.

LOL, be nice now, I was trying to understand why, never said things overheating









most of the time my hd's are in the mid 20's not the 30's, and my 5870 is at 26c most of the time


----------



## zefs

No, I am just jealous








Don't know why that happens but as I said I also noticed the same.
Could it be some particular component overheating? probably not since ambients whould have increased, who knows!


----------



## agentemo1

Hey guys working on my build this week. Which fans should I plug into the MB headers. I have a cpu,power, and three chassis headers. Im using the HAF 932 and a h50 with gentle typhoon AP 15's in a push pull located in the 5.25 drive bay on intake. I am fashioning some sort of way to direct all the heat from the h50 exhaust fans up to the top mounted fan so that it will not hang around the case. if anyone has tried this pics would be cool.


----------



## Ceadderman

Just plug your fans in off the PSU. A thousand watts ain't no joke, so I would chain your GTs' to the PSU. At the moment I have 6 fans going 3 of them are chained off one PSU lead and the Front LED 230 and my floor level 120 are chained off another.

If you have the money I would get a fan controller and chain them off one of the connections depending on the overall wattage capability of the unit.

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *agentemo1* 
Hey guys working on my build this week. Which fans should I plug into the MB headers. I have a cpu,power, and three chassis headers. Im using the HAF 932 and a h50 with gentle typhoon AP 15's in a push pull located in the 5.25 drive bay on intake. I am fashioning some sort of way to direct all the heat from the h50 exhaust fans up to the top mounted fan so that it will not hang around the case. if anyone has tried this pics would be cool.


----------



## Reactions

Hey, tried asking about this some days ago, but didn't get any answer. I got 2x GentleTyphoons at 1850RPM for P/P with my H50 and got 2x GentleTyphoon's 800RPM and one H50 stock fan that I want to use as case fans. I'm going to mount them in the top of the case (800D) but I don't know if I should mount them as intake or exhaust?
Please help


----------



## Ceadderman

Yours should be intake. There aren't many spots for fans in the 800D to begin with since it's meant to be a water cooling case. In the instruction vid Jeff made the rear exhaust an intake which would negatively affect static pressure imho. But he did it. And so being that the 800D is a Corsair Flagship you'd think he knew what he was doing with it.









If you have a case with a lot of airflow(such as the HAF 932 does) then either way would be fine. But if you have more intake than exhaust I would not mess with static pressure by introducing any more intakes as the exhaust can't keep up with it.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reactions* 
Hey, tried asking about this some days ago, but didn't get any answer. I got 2x GentleTyphoons at 1850RPM for P/P with my H50 and got 2x GentleTyphoon's 800RPM and one H50 stock fan that I want to use as case fans. I'm going to mount them in the top of the case (800D) but I don't know if I should mount them as intake or exhaust?
Please help


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Yours should be intake. There aren't many spots for fans in the 800D to begin with since it's meant to be a water cooling case. In the instruction vid Jeff made the rear exhaust an intake which would negatively affect static pressure imho. But he did it. And so being that the 800D is a Corsair Flagship you'd think he knew what he was doing with it.









If you have a case with a lot of airflow(such as the HAF 932 does) then either way would be fine. But if you have more intake than exhaust I would not mess with static pressure by introducing any more intakes as the exhaust can't keep up with it.









~Ceadder









This is something I have been wondering about since I mounted the H50 in the drivebay as intake, (HAF932).
I currently have 2x San Ace H1011 in push/pull as intake in teh drivebay with 2x 230mm front and side intake, along with another 1600rpm scythe S-flex at the bottom of the case as intake.
For exhaust im using 2x 1900rpm scythe kaze jyuni, (1 at rear, 1 at top) and another 1600rpm scythe S-flex for top exhaust.
So as it stands currently I have 5 as intake and 3 as exahust, I was wondering wether or not to change the side 230mm fan to exhaust tbh my temps are great with the current fan setup but ofc if I can improive my airflow/static pressure of my case I will









any thoughts on this chaps ?

Cheers!


----------



## zefs

As far as I know when doing front intake, you want top and rear as exhaust side as intake like your setup. Thing is that having more intake than exhaust will dust your case although mine is fine.

About chaning the side as exhaust, well that is suggested when using top as intake etc.
Also, I don't like side exhaust because hot air is killing my legs


----------



## dafour




----------



## Reactions

Well, I've got the Push/Pull's as exhaust, but I don't know how the stock 800D fans are mounted? So, what do you think. Should I mount the three fans in the top as intake or exhaust?


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *zefs* 
As far as I know when doing front intake, you want top and rear as exhaust side as intake like your setup. Thing is that having more intake than exhaust will dust your case although mine is fine.

About chaning the side as exhaust, well that is suggested when using top as intake etc.
Also, I don't like side exhaust because hot air is killing my legs









Thats fair, will leave it as intake then unless otherwised proven wrong









Cheers bud!


----------



## Ceadderman

If you have a pic of how your fans are set up(real life, not brochure pics) it would be a bit more helpful to figure out how to set yours up. I'd imagine that the top fans are set to intake not exhaust. But the brochure pics don't give us any information to work with other than 3x 140mm cooling system. So I imagine 2 are up top 1 in the bottom and one exhaust.

You can't put it at the bottom as the unit would never reach that spot unless you modded it.

Rear is exhaust and tops are intakes but I don't know if you can mount at the top because of mounting options. More than likely you can as I don't see Corsair being singleminded in the customers cooling options. So if it were me I would put it up top as an intake in one of the 140/120 mounts.

@ making 230 side fan exhaust idea. Great during the winter not so great during the summer.







lol

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reactions* 
Well, I've got the Push/Pull's as exhaust, but I don't know how the stock 800D fans are mounted? So, what do you think. Should I mount the three fans in the top as intake or exhaust?


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dafour* 









hey look, new mounting hardware!


----------



## Reactions

Yeah, I'll mount them as intake and take a pic tomorrow.


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Yours should be intake. There aren't many spots for fans in the 800D to begin with since it's meant to be a water cooling case. In the instruction vid Jeff made the rear exhaust an intake which would negatively affect static pressure imho. But he did it. And so being that the 800D is a Corsair Flagship you'd think he knew what he was doing with it.









If you have a case with a lot of airflow(such as the HAF 932 does) then either way would be fine. But if you have more intake than exhaust I would not mess with static pressure by introducing any more intakes as the exhaust can't keep up with it.









~Ceadder









Ok I'm going to have to explain this with little more detail because there is so much misinformation going it has people believing it that shouldn't. This hole thing about the airflow and how the 800D is only good for liquid cooling is nonsense. 1st off liquid cooling and air cooling are both based off a heat exchange. What would be bad for one would be bad for the other. Can we all stop this liquid cooling airflow psychobabble about the 800D. There are several factors people don't take into account. Lets compare the 800D to the HAF. The HAF has superior airflow, but several 800D club member have reported better temperatures when compare to their old HAF's. Why is that? Its because the 800D has superior cooling features. It has 3 separation of heat sources. The case design does not let allow for the mixing of hot and cold air. All heat sources have their own paths of ventilation. The 800D has the best cable management system of any case. You couldn't even run your wires messed up if you wanted to. Do to the design of the cable management system it actually does not affect your airflow once inside your case, as much as other cases. Less resistance means better airflow. Now lest look at resistance a lot of cases. These cases (like the HAF) have a front intake only to have HDD bay behind it. To do this very common design two thing go wrong. There is resistance and a heat transfer do to your HDD's. So now not only has the resistance of the HDD bay decreased your airflow, the HDD's them selves have absorbed the cool air entering the case and are now rejecting heat into your airflow. That hot air is now on your hardware, but wait a minute. Doesn't your hardware heatsinks or liquid cooling equipment both work off a heat transfer? Yes it does. But, is it going to work as good with the hotter air that is now inside your PC case? No do to the hotter air there is less of a give and take of heat. It is cooling but not as well as it should be. That is why the 800D has superior cooling features. Now if anyone in any case wants to further cool and or increase their airflow you can add a Drive Bay Coolers (5.25"). Check out the *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink* even if you don't have the H50 there are some helpful links.


----------



## Ceadderman

Is it not built for Watercooling?









I fail to see where the misinformation is. I did ask for pics to be able to better help the guy. Right? I mean I'm no Corsair Pro, but I fail to see how your sneering down your nose helps the whole issue.

Thanks for the detailed pic. That's helpful, but using "misinformation" when it's CLEARLY a lack of information issue, gives my credibility a black eye and I do not appreciate that.









Just say what it is. That yes I'm right but without all the information it's not complete.

Oh and only 4 fans come with the 800D right? 1 Ex 3 Int?









Thanks.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
Ok I'm going to have to explain this with little more detail because there is so much misinformation going it has people believing it that shouldn't. This hole thing about the airflow and how the 800D is only good for liquid cooling is nonsense. 1st off liquid cooling and air cooling are both based off a heat exchange. What would be bad for one would be bad for the other. Can we all stop this liquid cooling airflow psychobabble about the 800D. There are several factors people don't take into account. Lets compare the 800D to the HAF. The HAF has superior airflow, but several 800D club member have reported better temperatures when compare to their old HAF's. Why is that? Its because the 800D has superior cooling features. It has 3 separation of heat sources. The case design does not let allow for the mixing of hot and cold air. All heat sources have their own paths of ventilation. The 800D has the best cable management system of any case. You couldn't even run your wires messed up if you wanted to. Do to the design of the cable management system it actually does not affect your airflow once inside your case, as much as other cases. Less resistance means better airflow. Now lest look at resistance a lot of cases. These cases (like the HAF) have a front intake only to have HDD bay behind it. To do this very common design two thing go wrong. There is resistance and a heat transfer do to your HDD's. So now not only has the resistance of the HDD bay decreased your airflow, the HDD's them selves have absorbed the cool air entering the case and are now rejecting heat into your airflow. That hot air is now on your hardware, but wait a minute. Doesn't your hardware heatsinks or liquid cooling equipment both work off a heat transfer? Yes it does. But, is it going to work as good with the hotter air that is now inside your PC case? No do to the hotter air there is less of a give and take of heat. It is cooling but not as well as it should be. That is why the 800D has superior cooling features. Now if anyone in any case wants to further cool and or increase their airflow you can add a Drive Bay Coolers (5.25"). Check out the *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink* even if you don't have the H50 there are some helpful links.


----------



## Pings

You were giving misinformation "CLEARLY":

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Is it not built for Watercooling?

No not necessarily. Can the case do both? Yes it can. But, you were getting at the lack of airflow, better yet CFM. Again I'll have to explain this with little more detail. Yes one paper the HAF has a higher CFM rating. But that is just the potential CFM of the fan. The fan manufactures do not take into account the resistance and or a heat exchange from the HDDs. Again over and over people just don't get it. You were getting at the 800D having a lack of airflow therefore its better for liquid cooling. This is nonsense. Both liquid cooling and air cooling are both based off a heat exchange. If you are saying the the lack of airflow makes the 800D better for liquid cooling you would be 100% wrong.


----------



## Jeffro422

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dafour* 










Antec 300? I have mine push/pull from the rear exhaust. Tight fit!!

So was mine!!


----------



## Ceadderman

I never said that it wasn't good for AC. CLEARLY you took this out of context and ran with it.

But whatever. Just cause I didn't lay it out there in an anal retentive fashion as you have does not mean that I'm giving misinformation.

And the heat of our HDDs' in the 932? I guess that thing up front called a FAN has no bearing on the your information. Right?









What's funny is that I hadn't been running my front fan since I got it cause I only had one drive up front at the time.

My average temps were of the 37-41c variety which is well within reason for spec. Added the LED fan back up front gearing up for my system changeover and now the temps are 31c. When I add another drive it will go up but not much. There is actually more flow coming across my HDD than you could even possibly imagine. The static pressure more than made up for lack of any fan up front.

I apologize if you were misled by your own lack of reading comprehension, but I never stated that the 800D was only good for water. It's just set up better for it *IMHO* than it is strictly for AC.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


You were giving misinformation "CLEARLY":

No not necessarily. Can the case do both? Yes it can. But, you were getting at the lack of airflow, better yet CFM. Again I'll have to explain this with little more detail. Yes one paper the HAF has a higher CFM rating. But that is just the potential CFM of the fan. The fan manufactures do not take into account the resistance and or a heat exchange from the HDDs. Again over and over people just don't get it. You were getting at the 800D having a lack of airflow therefore its better for liquid cooling. This is nonsense. Both liquid cooling and air cooling are both based off a heat exchange. If you are saying the the lack of airflow makes the 800D better for liquid cooling you would be 100% wrong.


----------



## FIREitUP

Has anyone tried mounting it outside of the case like this guy did? http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?p=443797

I'm seriously thinking about it.


----------



## spacegoast

Does anyone know if the H50 will fit on a Gigabyte H55M-UD2 mobo? I am worried that the caps to the left of the cpu socket might get in the way. If anyone has it on theirs please post pics.


----------



## Ceadderman

Do you mean THIS board?

GIGABYTE GA-H55M-S2H LGA 1156 Intel H55 HDMI 










Picture says it will; as the flanges don't come in contact with the Caps.









The part you're seeing that invades that spot is actually on the back side of that board.









@Outside mount question... one of the guys in the 932/922 club actually did mount it outside his case by dimpling the back of his case in two spots and bending the door there to allow the hoses to clear.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *spacegoast*


Does anyone know if the H50 will fit on a Gigabyte H55M-UD2 mobo? I am worried that the caps to the left of the cpu socket might get in the way. If anyone has it on theirs please post pics.


----------



## spacegoast

This one:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128421

Im just worried because I tried putting one on my EVGA E652 mobo and the caps go in the way on that board. The ring did not rest flush with the mount underneath and the caps lifted the ring on the left side.


----------



## zefs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FIREitUP*


Has anyone tried mounting it outside of the case like this guy did? http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?p=443797

I'm seriously thinking about it.


Doesn't matter if you have good airflow inside your case, although it depends on rad placement as well. Mounting it in the front of the case as intake would give you the same results as mounting it outside the case I suppose.


----------



## Ceadderman

It will defintely be cutting it close. Doesn't look like it will be similar to you EVGA Board however since the mounting holes aren't fully in line with the Caps. But this is an eyeball/ownership type of answer.

You're relying on two factors being able to answer this question.

Eyeball. My eyes say that it SHOULD work, having looked at both Boards now. They are both set up the same at the socket.

But that is no contest to actually owning the board and having an H50 on it. I would contact Corsair tomorrow and see if they have any knowledge on it. Cause I doubt that you'll find the perfect answer amongst this lot.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *spacegoast*


This one:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128421

Im just worried because I tried putting one on my EVGA E652 mobo and the caps go in the way on that board. The ring did not rest flush with the mount underneath and the caps lifted the ring on the left side.


----------



## spacegoast

Ya, I was just hoping I wouldnt have to take off the one on my MIIIGene. Looks like I will have to though. Thanks Ceadar.


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
I never said that it wasn't good for AC. CLEARLY you took this out of context and ran with it.

But whatever. Just cause I didn't lay it out there in an anal retentive fashion as you have does not mean that I'm giving misinformation.

And the heat of our HDDs' in the 932? I guess that thing up front called a FAN has no bearing on the your information. Right?









What's funny is that I hadn't been running my front fan since I got it cause I only had one drive up front at the time.

My average temps were of the 37-41c variety which is well within reason for spec. Added the LED fan back up front gearing up for my system changeover and now the temps are 31c. When I add another drive it will go up but not much. There is actually more flow coming across my HDD than you could even possibly imagine. The static pressure more than made up for lack of any fan up front.

I apologize if you were misled by your own lack of reading comprehension, but I never stated that the 800D was only good for water. It's just set up better for it *IMHO* than it is strictly for AC.

~Ceadder









Really what did you mean by this then?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
*Yours should be intake. There aren't many spots for fans in the 800D to begin with since it's meant to be a water cooling case.* In the instruction vid Jeff made the rear exhaust an intake which would negatively affect static pressure imho. But he did it. And so being that the 800D is a Corsair Flagship you'd think he knew what he was doing with it.









*If you have a case with a lot of airflow(such as the HAF 932 does) then either way would be fine*. But if you have more intake than exhaust I would not mess with static pressure by introducing any more intakes as the exhaust can't keep up with it.









~Ceadder









You talking about airflow crossing your HDD like you know what you are talking about. Stop while you are ahead, go back and read what I said you are still not getting it. You are talking about static pressure like its in a HVACR duct. Static pressure = water pressure (how hard the water is flowing). The static pressure you are talking about it meant to be on a radiator, it has no effect as a normal PC fan inside your case. Its like this, fans for your PC case are better with high CFM, fans for your radiator are better with high static pressure. If I have to further explain this I can. You said it your self then turned around said you didn't. Talk about my reading comprehension? Just because you don't understand airflow and or the way heat works that well. Doesn't mean you have to get pissed, when someone tells you what's up. But hurt a little much? What I 1st posted it was something I post over and over again it was not directed at you. It's more for what you were getting it at. It's not something I typed for what you were saying. It was something I typed up so every time I see some one spreading false information about the case. I can quickly post about it. I know it hurts when you think you are right about something and it turns out you were wrong. Next time you are wrong about something take it as it is, a learning experience. I never meant to step on your ePenis, make you feel like it's little.


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay, now you're pissin me off. You're taking bits and pieces and trying to make a case where there is none.

Fans DO have static pressure as well. But I guess you knew that too right?

Oh and while your shotgun posting was not meant directly at me(I'll give you the BoD here) it was in the middle of my conversation. So you damn right I get butt hurt over it. Who wouldn't?

Now stop acting like an Ass and leave me alone. I've already done this dance with someone else and I refuse to continue it with you.

If you don't like my opinion don't read my SHIZT.

Have a nice day.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


Really what did you mean by this then?

You talking about airflow crossing your HDD like you know what you are talking about. Stop while you are ahead, go back and read what I said you are still not getting it. You are talking about static pressure like its in a HVACR duct. Static pressure = water pressure (how hard the water is flowing). The static pressure you are talking about it meant to be on a radiator, it has no effect as a normal PC fan inside your case. Its like this, fans for your PC case are better with high CFM, fans for your radiator are better with high static pressure. If I have to further explain this I can. You said it your self then turned around said you didn't. Talk about my reading comprehension? Just because you don't understand airflow and or the way heat works that well. Doesn't mean you have to get pissed, when someone tells you what's up. But hurt a little much? What I 1st posted it was something I post over and over again it was not directed at you. It's more for what you were getting it at. It's not something I typed for what you were saying. It was something I typed up so every time I see some one spreading false information about the case. I can quickly post about it. I know it hurts when you think you are right about something and it turns out you were wrong. Next time you are wrong about something take it as it is, a learning experience. I never meant to step on your ePenis, make you feel like it's little.


----------



## Tennobanzai

I just lapped the heatsink and upgraded to Ultra Kaze fans with 1 shroud. I would have put the shroud in between the first fan, but it doesnt seem to have any possible way with my case.

Temps dropped 7-8C at load. Somewhat happy but i think i'll be going the custom route soon. GPU block being ordered tomorrow, just need $$ for the CPU block now..


----------



## batrnut

count me in
i got v3 with amd brackets
i use it on a test bench. i wish the mounting would be easier/ quicker
other then that it's awesome


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Okay, now you're pissin me off. You're taking bits and pieces and trying to make a case where there is none.

What are you talking about. It was you that was spreading the wrong information about the airflow and how heat works with liquid cooling and air cooling. You said it your 1st post when asked about the 800D, then you got mad for being wrong, and to top it off you stated that you never said even though you got quoted saying it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Fans DO have static pressure as well. But I guess you knew that too right?

Did you read anything I said or are you pretending like you know what you are talking about after I say it? You were talking about static pressure as in a duct system. I made it very clear what I was getting at.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
You are talking about static pressure like its in a HVACR duct. Static pressure = water pressure (how hard the water is flowing). The static pressure you are talking about it meant to be on a radiator, it has no effect as a normal PC fan inside your case. Its like this, fans for your PC case are better with high CFM, fans for your radiator are better with high static pressure.

Then here you come trying to act like you know what you are talking about after the fact, when you were the one who got it wrong before it. Yet you were the one commenting my reading comprehension skills. I guess you are one of the do as I say not as I do kind of guys. Try and act like you know whats what after the fact. Get out of here with that









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Oh and while your shotgun posting was not meant directly at me(I'll give you the BoD here) it was in the middle of my conversation. So you damn right I get butt hurt over it. Who wouldn't?

You were giving out wrong information. This site is here so people can learn. Instead of take it as what it is, a learning experience, you throw a temper tantrum. Really, "In the middle of my conversation", Really? 1st off it's not you conversation. 2nd I commented on your 1st post to the question that was asked about the 800D, which was the 1st comment to the question asked. You are just making stuff up now. Do you often lie to try and prove points? How old are you now?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
If you don't like my opinion don't read my SHIZT.

There is a difference between having a opinion and spreading false information. You were wrong about the way heat works, you were wrong about not saying what you did, and you are off static pressure. Do you want to keep it up or have you dug the hole deep enough yet?


----------



## sendblink23

Guys stop the damn flaming & fighting ... fight over PM not here in this thread
or simply ignore the issue


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


Guys stop the damn flaming & fighting ... fight over PM not here in this thread
or simply ignore the issue


I can try and do that. But, I have a feeling that he's not done somehow.


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^ Gee wonder why...









I don't have a problem with being corrected. I do have a problem with how you are going about it. If I'm wrong, I'm wrong.

But clearly you're not showing me where I'm wrong.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


What are you talking about. It was you that was spreading the wrong information about the airflow and *how heat works with liquid cooling and air cooling.* You said it your 1st post when asked about the 800D, then you got mad for being wrong, and to top it off you stated that you never said even though you got quoted saying it.


How was I wrong? Show me or **** about it. What I got mad about was the fact that you quote it without context from a conversation you but your fat ass into. Give the whole context and then it looks a bit different.

Quote:



Did you read anything I said or are you pretending like you know what you are talking about after I say it? You were talking about static pressure as in a duct system. I made it very clear what I was getting at.


You're talking out your ass with this one Mate. I've given people helpful information and AGAIN static pressure in a case is important. You keep acting as though it isn't. If you Take a 3:1 intake to exhaust ratio and overload either of them you change the dynamics of the system. That doesn't matter? Whatever dude. You're acting as though it's BS when it's not. If I overload exhaust with lots of intakes then that changes the cooling efficiency. Right or wrong?

Quote:



Then here you come trying to act like you know what you are talking about after the fact, when you were the one who got it wrong before it. Yet you were the one commenting my reading comprehension skills. I guess you are one of the do as I say not as I do kind of guys. Try and act like you know whats what after the fact. Get out of here with that










Repeat yourself much? Didn't you essentially say this in the previous quote taken from your rant?

Quote:



You were giving out wrong information. This site is here so people can learn. Instead of take it as what it is, a learning experience, you throw a temper tantrum. Really, "In the middle of my conversation", Really? 1st off it's not you conversation. 2nd I commented on your 1st post to the question that was asked about the 800D, which was the 1st comment to the question asked. You are just making stuff up now. Do you often lie to try and prove points? How old are you now?


Ummmm no, I gave out correct information. I just didn't write a frigging book nor did I give it out per rules of Ping. I apologize I didn't go word for word over the Corsair 800D brochure. Next time I'll just cut and paste that so your anal retentive mind can move on to the next crusade.

Quote:



There is a difference between having a opinion and spreading false information. You were wrong about the way heat works, you were wrong about not saying what you did, and you are off static pressure. Do you want to keep it up or have you dug the hole deep enough yet?


Dude you're a Twit. Who died and made you the playground monitor? This is what I have a problem with. This is not the 1st time I've seen you bully people about and act like everything they say is false. In the world according to you, if you don't give 100% of the information or if it's off in any way the person is wrong. Sod off pinhead we're done. Don't speak to me an I won't speak to you. An right back at you









~Ceadder


----------



## pieisgood2

my h50 should be arriving on Tuesday, can't wait to install it and see how it works. will post pics when done.


----------



## Pings

I spoke to soon I don't feel like proving him wrong again.


----------



## Mokinock28

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


I spoke to soon I don't feel like proving him wrong again.


i dont post much here I mostly read, but ceadderman just give it up. you did say the the case was better for liquid then say how the HAF is good for both. that goes against the way heat works like pings says. then you said you didnt say it, but pings quoted you saying that soon after. after doing a quick google search, your not understanding static pressure, well at least you didnt before pings said something about it. its looks like there is static pressure like in a dust and there is static pressure of a fan. you were taking about static pressure like in a duct, not like a fan. like pings said you are digging a deeper and deeper hole. just stop already ceadderman how many time can you be wrong before you give up?


----------



## pieisgood2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mokinock28*


i dont post much here I mostly read, but ceadderman just give it up. you did say the the case was better for liquid then say how the HAF is good for both. that goes against the way heat works like pings says. then you said you didnt say it, but pings quoted you saying that soon after. after doing a quick google search, your not understanding static pressure, well at least you didnt before pings said something about it. its looks like there is static pressure like in a dust and there is static pressure of a fan. you were taking about static pressure like in a duct, not like a fan. like pings said you are digging a deeper and deeper hole. just stop already ceadderman how many time can you be wrong before you give up?


why are you posting in here if you don't own an h50. get the hell out and stop encouraging people to argue. if for some reason you don't understand, i'm talking about you mokinock


----------



## Pings

Come on Ceadderman just give it up, you can stop your temper tantrum at any time. If you feel like learning more PM me.


----------



## Mokinock28

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pieisgood2*


why are you posting in here if you don't own an h50. get the hell out and stop encouraging people to argue. if for some reason you don't understand, i'm talking about you mokinock


next ask before making a fool of your self. i have a H50 for my AMD Phenom II 940, i've had one for some time. i didnt encouraging anyone i said to give it up.


----------



## pieisgood2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mokinock28*


next ask before making a fool of your self. i have a H50 for my AMD Phenom II 940, i've had one for some time. i didnt encouraging anyone i said to give it up.


try putting it in your sig with some pics then i might believe you.


----------



## Pings

Come one people lets stop this. Ceadderman, sorry for pointing out that you were wrong, Mokinock28 thanks for the help, but I got this one, pieisgood2 we were almost done with this hole thing until you opened you mouth. Lets just put this behind us, Ceadderman if you want to talk more about this PM me.


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pieisgood2* 
try putting it in your sig with some pics then i might believe you.

You need to knock it off. Real anyone could put it in there sig find a PIC of Google, and bam! There is your prof. You're really not helping this end...


----------



## pieisgood2

yo ping quick question. is your setup fan/shroud/case/rad/fan


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pieisgood2* 
yo ping quick question. is your setup fan/shroud/case/rad/fan

Yes it is. It was the best combo, for the temperature. I tried it every way possible, I even tried it with two shrouds. It was the best temperature and the highest CFM tested with my anemometer.


----------



## pieisgood2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
Yes it is. It was the best combo, for the temperature. I tried it every way possible, I even tried it with two shrouds. It was the best temperature and the highest CFM tested with my anemometer.

yea i think 2 shrouds looks ridiculous and i'm already going to have one fan on the back of my case. i was thinking about cutting out the metal fan grid in the back of my case. that should slightly improve the airflow.


----------



## Bodycount

@Ceadderman

Twisted and insulting as always when he gets heated or corrected

Oh well....


----------



## SM0k3

Ok guys, my quest for mid to low 30c temps still continues. My latest effort has been to cut the fan grating out of the back of the Antec Nine Hundred case and mount my push/pull radiator setup outside of the case and right in front of my room window so it gets a constant flow of fresh cool air.

So after I completed the task I booted up my computer and immediately go into the bios to check the system monitor and I was happy that it was reporting 32c-33c, but once I get into windows and my "RealTemp" program loads up it begins to report the same temps I've been getting even when I was running on an air setup of 42c









So I present this screen shot of CPUID Hardware Monitor with the highlighted portions in hopes to get an answer on what my real temperature is because it is all over the place.


----------



## Ceadderman

Shut the he ll up.

I got no problems with being wrong and having someone correct me. I do have problems with the way some people go about it.

Like your arrogant ass making claims that I don't know what I'm talking about but then you don't show what I said that was wrong. You got all bent out of shape about how your H50 leaked inside the case(like I can do a fokkin thing one about that) and that you spent hours chatting up the Corsair tech tryin ta get in his pants and it made you a professional H50 tech.

Blow it out yer arce.

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 







@Ceadderman

Twisted and insulting as always when he gets heated or corrected

Oh well....


----------



## pieisgood2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Shut the he ll up.

I got no problems with being wrong and having someone correct me. I do have problems with the way some people go about it.

Like your arrogant ass making claims that I don't know what I'm talking about but then you don't show what I said that was wrong. You got all bent out of shape about how your H50 leaked inside the case(like I can do a fokkin thing one about that) and that you spent hours chatting up the Corsair tech tryin ta get in his pants and it made you a professional H50 tech.

Blow it out yer arce.

~Ceadder









i like this post

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SM0k3* 
Ok guys, my quest for mid to low 30c temps still continues. My latest effort has been to cut the fan grating out of the back of the Antec Nine Hundred case and mount my push/pull radiator setup outside of the case and right in front of my room window so it gets a constant flow of fresh cool air.


quick question man. why do you have two cpu temps in addition to the temps on your cores. when i use hardware monitor it only shows one cpu temp and then the 4 cores.


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pieisgood2* 
yea i think 2 shrouds looks ridiculous and i'm already going to have one fan on the back of my case. i was thinking about cutting out the metal fan grid in the back of my case. that should slightly improve the airflow.

I thinking cutting the metal might be a little to much. There will be such a little difference I doubt you will see a temperature change. The shroud removes dead air near and around the front intake of a fan. You have a lot of dead air after the radiator, the shroud will take care of this, no need to cut anything. But, like I was getting at earlier, you want a high CFM fan feeding airflow to a high static pressure fan. I tried this way (⇇High CFM Fan⇇Shroud⇇Case⇇H50⇇High Static Pressure Fan⇇) as an experiment and kept this way ever since. I get some freakish low temperatures for the H50 check out my "Blood ei7RageD PICs to see those temps.

Ceadderman just stop you did get pissed when you were told you were wrong.


----------



## Skylit

No seriously, Why are you guys arguing over stupid crap? Here, Let me change the topic.

LOLH50wannabewatercooling.

kidding

;D


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Skylit* 









No seriously, Why are you guys arguing over stupid crap? Here, Let me change the topic.

LOLH50wannabewatercooling.

;D

It might be a wannabe, but my H50 was better than my Megahalems. After modding my H50 it wiped the floor of my Megahalems. You CPU cooler gets beat by a wannabe water cooler.

kidding


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Shut the he ll up.

I got no problems with being wrong and having someone correct me. I do have problems with the way some people go about it.

Like your arrogant ass making claims that I don't know what I'm talking about but then you don't show what I said that was wrong. You got all bent out of shape about how your H50 leaked inside the case(like I can do a fokkin thing one about that) and that you spent hours chatting up the Corsair tech tryin ta get in his pants and it made you a professional H50 tech.

Blow it out yer arce.

~Ceadder









Be careful what you wish for
















But its very easy to hit the back button

And did i ask for your help/advice on a H50 leak? or think you were going to fix it?







but boy you gave it to me anyway







Who made you king turd here anyway? Come on

Holy Flirking snit dont get me started

Oh man







oh well games to play


----------



## SM0k3

When you guys finish would someone assist me with an answer to my post about, thanks.


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SM0k3* 
When you guys finish would someone assist me with an answer to my post about, thanks.
















I don't know what's going on with you but I hope this helps, even if it's just a little.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
Asetek makes the H50. Asetek also makes there own brand coolers. There is the Asetek LCLC and the Asetek LCLC 240MM Radiator. From what I understand the H50 has water inside them and the Asetek brand has a some sort of a liquid cooling fluid. Check some other Asetek coolers, NorthQ, Maingear, Alienware, HP, and others. Again Corasir doesn't even make the H50, Asetek does. The engineers who make the H50 recommend the their unit to be in exhaust, for good reason to. I say listen to a trained engineer, not a untrained benchmarker at Corsair. The intake vs exhaust is more based on your GFX card and Case. Corsair recommends intake, but Asetek the company who actually makes the H50 recommends exhaust. Like I said it really has to do with your GFX card and case. If you have a GFX with an air handler that blows hot air out the rear of your case. Its a good idea to have the H50 in exhaust. If you have a Vapor-X type of GFX card with no air handler, its better to be intake. Also do you have a place for that hot air to go once its in your PC case. For the guys who have an air handlers on their GFX cards and their H50s in intake, need to be warned. Do to the season and AC'd rooms, hot air from your GFX card is mixing with the cool air inside the radiator of the H50. This mixing creates condensation. That condensation is moisture that is now being blowing into your PC. But don't pay me no mind, feel free to try any way you like, and post about it. That's what this site is here for.

"*Asetek's factory sealed liquid cooling system is specifically designed to exhaust CPU heat directly outside of the chassis.*" - Asetek


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
It might be a wannabe, but my H50 was better than my Megahalems. After modding my H50 it wiped the floor of my Megahalems. You CPU cooler gets beat by a wannabe water cooler.

kidding

lol, I don't know if you typo'd my kidding in white or quoted me before I changed it. But Yeah, I tried my friends H50 in push pull with the same exact fans/paste and found the Meghalems to be at least 5C cooler then the H50. Of course, my case features reverse airflow where cool air can get sucked in right to the cooler.

I've never tried the shroud method, but I shall give it a whirl once best buy puts these things on sale. I got around $40 on a stupid giftcard from my parents.


----------



## SM0k3

Ok, just got good news that my temp is indeed 29c! Under Maximum stress test in IntelBurn my temp maxed out @ 50c. Finally the bug is squashed, now I can proceed with furthering my O/C speed.


----------



## Nightz2k

Just a small but improved update on mine. Using 2 Panaflo _(Other one is possibly a San Ace, no sticker)_ 120mm x 38mm, 86.5CFM fans in push/pull, exhaust to the back over the pos fans I was using. Pretty significant difference, about 5c better, just idle though. I'm sure it'll be a lot better on load/stressing.


----------



## Reactions

Okay, so here's how my computer looks now:








There is one fan that you can't see, which is the stock 140mm to the right next to the HDD bay, but it is covered with the plasticbox. Don't know if I should remove that.
As you can see the only fans that are mounted (except for stock) are the Push/Pull fans in exhaust for the H50. Here are the fans I'm going to mount:








I don't know if I'm going to use the stock Corsair fans (one is 120mm, one is 140 mm), depends on if I find the screws or not.
The place where I know that I can fit 3x 120mm fans is here:








I don't know if there is a place I can mount the 140 mm fan.
So, I was originally thinking on mounting the 2 GT's (800RPM) and the 120mm Corsair fan in the top as intake to better my GPU temp's (they're high as hell), but as you're saying I don't know if it's smart when I only got one exhaust place. So what do you think?
Thanks for helping


----------



## Wingzero

Thinking of going Push/Pull what are the "best fans" i could probably use 120MM obviously.


----------



## zefs

Gentle Typhoons are quite good and silent/cheap at the same time.


----------



## Wingzero

The yate loons caught my eye and was thinking of getting them anyone got any expeirences with them performance wise ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Awesome fans. 88cfm, though they do liven up the case on the dB level. I've got 3 120 High Speeds and 1 140 set to exhaust. You can definitely tell the difference from stock. When I put my hand at the back of my case to see what the flow was like from stock it was barely noticeable. A definite difference when you put your hand back there now.









My temps are @ 30c and don't get much higher either.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wingzero* 
The yate loons caught my eye and was thinking of getting them anyone got any expeirences with them performance wise ?


----------



## [email protected]

Hi I would like to join the club as well.I've just ordered mine so it should arrive on Wednesday.Will post pics then.Hopefully it will cool my 955 better than the Tuniq cooler.


----------



## sendblink23

I might say bye to my H50.. mine is already too beat up not cooling as it did in the past not even at stock speeds its hitting 55c on max load









Already Tested:
re-seating with: MX-3, AC5, Shin-Etsu Giving them a few days of use
different fans(2 of each): Panaflo, CM R4's, GentleTyphoon, Corsair(from h50's)
set-up: Exhaust - fan > rad > case > fan

each just gave me around 1 or 2c difference that is not enough for stock settings & way too high that I can't even overclock to what i usually am at 4.21Ghz

I was thinking of going extreme & cutting my Case to take my RAD out side of it... but I don't want to go that far, I already have 8 x 120mm (6 CM R4's red led - 2 other testing fans for push/pull) Fans inside my case. I make sure I cleaned the dust with air pressure spray & ass well tried changing the fan connector on my mobo(its always around 1700 - 1800rpm)... so my final guess its the H50 being beat up already(it does have many scratches on it already).

So what do you guys think.. should I buy a new one... or should I send it to someone to make me a custom mod on it(I'll pay all expenses duhh)? Maybe should I change to full custom water cooling system...or go back to Air?


----------



## dafour

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jeffro422*


Antec 300? I have mine push/pull from the rear exhaust. Tight fit!!


Yes into a antec 300,mounted like this,









What fans are you using?I didnt know it was possible to sqeeze them there


----------



## Ceadderman

Custom mod it yourself, but stay away from anti-freeze. Your system will never be cold enough to warrant the use of Ethylene Glycol in the mix. I would just use distilled h2o with some anti-corrosion additive and be done with it.

If you want color you might try Food Coloring, but I'm not sure how that would play out. I definitely wouldn't use many of the dyes on the market as they break down over time and leave residues in the system. Maybe FC does too, I'm not sure. But at least it's an alternative option.

In any case there are plenty of tutorials on YouTube that can walk you through the process.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


I might say bye to my H50.. mine is already too beat up not cooling as it did in the past not even at stock speeds its hitting 55c on max load









Already Tested:
re-seating with: MX-3, AC5, Shin-Etsu Giving them a few days of use
different fans(2 of each): Panaflo, CM R4's, GentleTyphoon, Corsair(from h50's)
set-up: Exhaust - fan > rad > case > fan

each just gave me around 1 or 2c difference that is not enough for stock settings & way too high that I can't even overclock to what i usually am at 4.21Ghz

I was thinking of going extreme & cutting my Case to take my RAD out side of it... but I don't want to go that far, I already have 8 x 120mm (6 CM R4's red led - 2 other testing fans for push/pull) Fans inside my case. I make sure I cleaned the dust with air pressure spray & ass well tried changing the fan connector on my mobo(its always around 1700 - 1800rpm)... so my final guess its the H50 being beat up already(it does have many scratches on it already).

So what do you guys think.. should I buy a new one... or should I send it to someone to make me a custom mod on it(I'll pay all expenses duhh)? Maybe should I change to full custom water cooling system...or go back to Air?


----------



## zefs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


I might say bye to my H50.. mine is already too beat up not cooling as it did in the past not even at stock speeds its hitting 55c on max load









Already Tested:
re-seating with: MX-3, AC5, Shin-Etsu Giving them a few days of use
different fans(2 of each): Panaflo, CM R4's, GentleTyphoon, Corsair(from h50's)
set-up: Exhaust - fan > rad > case > fan

each just gave me around 1 or 2c difference that is not enough for stock settings & way too high that I can't even overclock to what i usually am at 4.21Ghz

I was thinking of going extreme & cutting my Case to take my RAD out side of it... but I don't want to go that far, I already have 8 x 120mm (6 CM R4's red led - 2 other testing fans for push/pull) Fans inside my case. I make sure I cleaned the dust with air pressure spray & ass well tried changing the fan connector on my mobo(its always around 1700 - 1800rpm)... so my final guess its the H50 being beat up already(it does have many scratches on it already).

So what do you guys think.. should I buy a new one... or should I send it to someone to make me a custom mod on it(I'll pay all expenses duhh)? Maybe should I change to full custom water cooling system...or go back to Air?


What are your room ambient temperatures?


----------



## mmx+

My H50 now cooling a 3.8ghz i7 860:








I drilled out the front HDD cage and mounted the H50 up front instead, the additional room allows me to do push/pull w/ shrouds and exhausts the hot air *outside* of the case. I'm running 3.8ghz with 1.31v and temps are mid-70s, which is a bit high for my tastes, but not too bad. At some point I'll get some more powerful fans


----------



## sendblink23

@ zefs
You don't need to ask my ambient temps, look at my info Location: Guaynabo, PR = Puerto Rico which is always warm temps it never changes

I've been using it for a few of months(shown all the progress on this thread since I bought it), its now that its failing(been 2 weeks messing with this issue, didn't brought it up earlier since I wanted to do proper testing before mentioning it here)... it won't make any difference my ambient temps(since its always same hot here lol), I've clearly shown on this thread in the past having max load around 50c -54c @ 4.21Ghz... now at stock its hitting more than that... its a def the H50 not having the original life anymore

@ Ceadderman thnx but sorry, I will not try to mod it my self... I can't mod 4 shzt - trust me I've tried modding other stuff I always break them, I've never been any good with making things (or even at LEGO lol) - I prefer to pay for someone with experience to do it for me.. than me killing it by an epic fail of mine


----------



## zefs

Then try to RMA the product. If nothing changes after that then something else is going on with your system


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zefs*


Then try to RMA the product. If nothing changes after that then something else is going on with your system










hehehee I thought RMA'n it.. but its pretty scratched/banged-up already... I don't think they'll accept it lol


----------



## Reactions

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reactions* 
Okay, so here's how my computer looks now:








There is one fan that you can't see, which is the stock 140mm to the right next to the HDD bay, but it is covered with the plasticbox. Don't know if I should remove that.
As you can see the only fans that are mounted (except for stock) are the Push/Pull fans in exhaust for the H50. Here are the fans I'm going to mount:








I don't know if I'm going to use the stock Corsair fans (one is 120mm, one is 140 mm), depends on if I find the screws or not.
The place where I know that I can fit 3x 120mm fans is here:








I don't know if there is a place I can mount the 140 mm fan.
So, I was originally thinking on mounting the 2 GT's (800RPM) and the 120mm Corsair fan in the top as intake to better my GPU temp's (they're high as hell), but as you're saying I don't know if it's smart when I only got one exhaust place. So what do you think?
Thanks for helping









Still no answers to this?


----------



## Ceadderman

Well then here's what you do.

1)Sell the H50 as a used moddable one.

2)Replace the old H50 with a new one.

This way you save yourself shipping charges to mod it and you know that the new one will be able to be RMA'd if anything goes wrong with it.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
hehehee I thought RMA'n it.. but its pretty scratched/banged-up already... I don't think they'll accept it lol


----------



## Reactions

Ceadder, can you look at the picture I took for you?


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reactions* 
Still no answers to this?

about's mounting the 140mm Fan: just curious of WHAT size Fan-screen/shield is that for showing in your pic
at the bottom of, on the floor pan above your PSU??? Will the 140mm Fit for there, facing to blow upwards???
> > > or is that for a 120mm??

mr-Charles . . .









.


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Reactions*


Still no answers to this?


What where to put the extra 140mm fan? Just do what I did, to tell you the truth I have not tested if it cools any better with the extra fan, but I'm just gona leave it there anyways. Here is any older PIC, but none the less It shows what I did my extra 140mm, and 120mm fans.


----------



## Reactions

Looks nice Pings. How did you mount the 120mm fan at the bottom and the 140mm to the right?


----------



## Pings

The 140mm is done ghetto, Velcro. The 120mm lines up only through 2 screw holes in the bottom holes of the case.


----------



## KruperTrooper

Is there a way to paint the hoses without taking apart the H50? I want to spray paint them red, make them stand out a little.


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KruperTrooper*


Is there a way to paint the hoses without taking apart the H50? I want to spray paint them red, make them stand out a little.


How good is your masking skills? I think you might, maybe be able to pull it off. Have you thought about colored Anti-kink coils? Check out *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink* for more info on that.


----------



## Reactions

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


What where to put the extra 140mm fan? Just do what I did, to tell you the truth I have not tested if it cools any better with the extra fan, but I'm just gona leave it there anyways. Here is any older PIC, but none the less It shows what I did my extra 140mm, and 120mm fans.




















The 120 mm in the top right corner of the case is mounted as intake on your sketch, have you modded a hole in the case or something or is the fan just mounted against the wall?


----------



## KruperTrooper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


How good is your masking skills? I think you might, maybe be able to pull it off. Have you thought about colored Anti-kink coils? Check out *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink* for more info on that.


I could take it apart, but I want to keep the loop intact. I'm not very experienced with W.C. and this is my real first build so I want to keep the modding to a minimum right now.


----------



## Pings

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Reactions*


The 120 mm in the top right corner of the case is mounted as intake on your sketch, have you modded a hole in the case or something or is the fan just mounted against the wall?


That is just the Scythe KAMA-BAY, its just a Drive Bay Coolers (5.25"). Check out the *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink* for more info on that.


----------



## Reactions

Ok, but should I mount the two GentleTyphoons at 800 RPM's in the top as exhaust or intake? <.< I'll use the stock fan to mount them where you have.
EDIT:
I think I've got a problem with the RPM on my radiator GT's. Look at this:








And ***, I got 4 fans mounted in the case, and this program says only 3 of them is running? ***?

BTW: Page 1000!








EDIT2: I'm using a fan cable splitter which connects to the CPU Fan Header and the PSU. This should make it pop up in HWMonitor/BIOS right? Well, I'll take a picture of the splitter tomorrow and you can see.


----------



## Pings

Have you tried changing the RPM in the Bios if at all possible. You can also always try a fan Fan Controller, that's what I'm using. Again you can check out *The Corsair H50 Accessory Permalink* for that. Is that 4th fan on you MB or you PSU?

Nice 1000 pages! The H50 is by far the most popular club at Water Cooling.


----------



## Reactions

I will check it tomorrow. Just wondering, what do you think of mounting the 3x 120mm fans I've got extra in top as exhaust and the H50 radiator in P/P as intake? Wouldn't that lower my temps a bit?


----------



## zefs

Yes, for me top exhaust and rad intake seems to work the best. Do not expect huge difference though, couple of degrees maybe.


----------



## Ceadderman

I apologize Mate, I'm still on this loaner board running 4 Gigs of RAM on XP. High bandwidth pics take forever to load.

In any case, 2 things you might try...

1st Flip your Rad so the fittings are at the bottom instead of up top. There _is_ air in the system and with the fittings up top it promotes blocking. You want as clean a flow as you can possibly have. Air doesn't build up at the bottom unless you have a kinked hose. It rises naturally to the top and if you notice that's right where your fittings are at.

2nd thing is not nearly as crucial but in order to promote clean rounded lines (no kinks) you might wish to flip your pump 180 so the Corsair logo is upside down. As I said though it's not as crucial but it does allow any air to escape better with a couple light taps on the hoses and keeps them from kinking.

I would try this before I start messing with intake/exhaust theory. But it looks like you can place your Rad in quite a few locations. I apologize if I wasn't more help earlier.









Here is a comparison of my CPUID with yours...










If you notice my FANIN1 is *supposedly* running 7200+. I highly doubt that unless it's counting a daisy chain in the system. Since that's not the case (only three fans on the MoBo 140 Ex/CPU/PSU) I can only assume that it's reading the PSU and its fan leads and combining the RPMs.









Well anyway try those two things first and see what it gets you for your temps. Just try not to jostle your system around too much and get bubbles into the setup.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reactions* 
Ceadder, can you look at the picture I took for you?


----------



## Reactions

I'll try that tomorrow, I dont want to do anything with the heatsink though, since I dont have good extra TIM. The reason the radiator is upside down is because if I dont the tubing will bend really sharp and the guy from Corsair said that it was ok. My mate told me that around 75 degrees aint that much for an i7 860 but I'll experiment abit tomorrow. BTW: Don't you think that I would get worse stock temps if it was air in the tubes? Isnt 30 idle, under 50 load pretty good? Thanks for helping btw. Sorry for typos I'm at my IPod.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Big Congratz on the H50 club's 1000 page!
keep the great stuff comming guys!


----------



## Ceadderman

It's all good. If you can't get the fittings to the bottom without kinking them then try on whichever side allows the most flexibility for you.

And your temps are fine. We're just trying to keep potential problems from cropping up by fine tuning your setup. Since the system is not built by Corsair, they have limited knowledge on it. There is nothing wrong with that but the knowledge they pass along could be to the detriment of your cooler.









Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reactions* 
I'll try that tomorrow, I dont want to do anything with the heatsink though, since I dont have good extra TIM. The reason the radiator is upside down is because if I dont the tubing will bend really sharp and the guy from Corsair said that it was ok. My mate told me that around 75 degrees aint that much for an i7 860 but I'll experiment abit tomorrow. BTW: Don't you think that I would get worse stock temps if it was air in the tubes? Isnt 30 idle, under 50 load pretty good? Thanks for helping btw. Sorry for typos I'm at my IPod.


----------



## mr-Charles

well . . . . . *WELL ! ! !*







*CONGRAT's* to ya Killhouse, and to all of you "H50" member's/
owner's/poster's for this club here as well...







_*NICE*_ = milestone for this thread & let's keep it running . .







. . .

. . . _*page 1000*_, and going on the *10,000 posting's* . . .







. . .







. . . again, _*Congrat's*_ all . . . . .









mr-Charles . . .









.


----------



## mr-Charles

hmmmm? ? ? . . . . .oooooOOOO-K, guess i'll jump on to it here for the club . . . . .









................. _*TADA ! ! !*_ *posting #10,000* .........









mr-Charles . .







. .









.


----------



## metallicamaster3

10,000 posts!


----------



## Ceadderman

I think 10k should be wiped off the books. Double post.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


hmmmm? ? ? . . . . .oooooOOOO-K, guess i'll jump on to it here for the club . . . . .









................. _*TADA ! ! ! *_*posting #10,000* .........









mr-Charles . .







. .









.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I think 10k should be wiped off the books. Double post.









~Ceadder










U need to learn how READ and determine that BOTH post's ARE NOT the same . . . . .
1st one basically commend's all club member's & Killhouse . . . 
the second is, I took it on my own to "turn the counter-clock" . . . 
..... NO wonder you piss-off so many good member's for here. . . . .GZZzzzzzzz....







.....









U R so LAME . . . .







. . . .done; { my apology goes out to this club's member's & all . . .}

.


----------



## Archer S

hmm did anyone ever mount their H50 radiator sideways? i cant mount mine with barbs on the bottom in my antec 902 so i thought mounting it sideways would be just as good to trap air. while on the subject does anyone know which tube is going to the block, and which tube is coming out of the block (flow wise)?


----------



## Demented

To anyone who has it attached to the spot in your case that is normally the rear exhaust (Like in my Antec 900), with one of the fans in push pull on the OUTSIDE:

Did you cut your case's fan grill? I plan on doing some things to my H50, and I've read that they restrict air-flow. Since I am going for as much strong air-flow as possible, I figured it's best for me to cut it out of my case. However, this means more work. So, has anyone not done it and temps were still good? Or is the recommendation just to DO IT, and I'll have better air-flow guaranteed?


----------



## Ceadderman

It was a joke friend.









I posted this icon "







" which signifies that it's sposed to be funny.

How stupid do you feel for jumping my ass now?









But while we're on the subject, you might wish to learn posting etiquette. I just posted twice in a row. Normally I edit my latest post with any and all replies. I do it just about every time.

While you on the other hand like to take up full pages with your foolishness. You want to go on about how I piss people off? Don't get me started on how you do likewise. You may not like how it goes.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *mr-Charles*


U need to learn how READ and determine that BOTH post's ARE NOT the same . . . . .
1st one basically commend's all club member's & Killhouse . . . 
the second is, I took it on my own to "turn the counter-clock" . . . 
..... NO wonder you piss-off so many good member's for here. . . . .GZZzzzzzzz....







.....









U R so LAME . . . .







. . . .done; { my apology goes out to this club's member's & all . . .}

.


----------



## Ceadderman

Answer to 1st question, nope I don't.

2nd question Corsair logo facing to you the outgoing flow is the left tube.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Archer S*


hmm did anyone ever mount their H50 radiator sideways? i cant mount mine with barbs on the bottom in my antec 902 so i thought mounting it sideways would be just as good to trap air. while on the subject does anyone know which tube is going to the block, and which tube is coming out of the block (flow wise)?


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demented*


To anyone who has it attached to the spot in your case that is normally the rear exhaust (Like in my Antec 900), with one of the fans in push pull on the OUTSIDE:

Did you cut your case's fan grill? I plan on doing some things to my H50, and I've read that they restrict air-flow. Since I am going for as much strong air-flow as possible, I figured it's best for me to cut it out of my case. However, this means more work. So, has anyone not done it and temps were still good? Or is the recommendation just to DO IT, and *I'll have better air-flow *guaranteed?


. . . most who "do" modd for their system/case, have done this and aquired a BETTER Air Flow because of the 
"less resistance"; Some have encountered a high-pitch noise until they did do the "cut-out the Fan-grill" modd = Noise now gone...








...my 2







worth of mentioning for ya . . . .









mr-Charles . .









.


----------



## Archer S

thanks Ceadderman. guess il be the first to mount it sideways. So the incoming flow should be the top barb so the exhaust cant take air to the pump.


----------



## Ceadderman

You won't be the first to run it sideways (one of the 932/922 members has it this way just don't remember which page or post #







) but that sounds like a solid idea to keep the resulting intake from pushing the air back into the pump.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Archer S*


thanks Ceadderman. guess il be the first to mount it sideways. So the incoming flow should be the top barb so the exhaust cant take air to the pump.


----------



## Reactions

Hi again dudes! I've completely rerouted the air flow in my case and it's pretty neat. I'm at stock now though and idle temps go as low as 19 degrees Celcius. Load temps (P95) wont go over 50 degrees. I haven't tested at 4,0 ghz yet since something is ****ing up the overclocking. Everytime I've overclocked and try to start P95 the system freezes. I don't think it is the Vcore since I had it at 1.4 v with Low Vdroop. when I had it at 4 ghz yesterday I had 1.35 with High Vdroop (to 1.25 or something) and it still could run P95. What's wrong? BTW: Should I turn off all the Green Power things in BIOS? I've got a MSI Big Bang Fuzion
EDIT:
I've pumped it up to 4 ghz again now with a QPI Multi of 18x, VTT of 1.25 and Vcore of 1.35 (High Vdroop on so it drops the core voltage with about 0.1 volts under load). I'm running P95 now (been doing it for 16 min) and the vcore is 1.232v, temps have improved with a couple of degrees and it's now hovering between 70-74. Pops up to 75 sometimes too. Thanks for helping guys







Dunno how long this OC will stay stable since the Vcore is so low. It's still a bit funny that it wouldnt run prime at all with 1.4vcore when vdroop was set to Low.


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reactions* 
Hi again dudes! I've completely rerouted the air flow in my case and it's pretty neat. I'm at stock now though and idle temps go as low as 19 degrees Celcius.

I'm right there with you with the airflow design. My temps are right there with you too. Check out my temps. This is the best airflow design for the case.


----------



## Reactions

How the **** did you get a Vantage CPU-score of 52000?!


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Reactions*


How the **** did you get a Vantage CPU-score of 52000?!


Physx


----------



## pieisgood2

would anyone care to post their idle and load temps using the H50?


----------



## Sean W.

yay









i just orderd these scythe 110cfm fans, hopfully i will get them tomorrow or thursday, we will see how this effects temperatures.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-060-_-Product

and i found these fans AFTER i bought these fans, so if the temperatures decrease noticably with a push pull with 110cfm, ill get these fans.
http://www.svc.com/y720dcd-25t1-gp.html


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Rebuilding my rig in a CM690 case, and i would like to hear feedback on whether i should set my h50 to intake or exahaust?

Fan Setup:

2x120mm Cm R4 fans exhaust top
1x140mm CM stock intake front fan
Maybe add a bottom 120mm r4 as intake

so, which would be better for flow, making the H50 (gentle typhoon push/pull) as intake or exhaust?

In my antec 902 i had it as exhaust (never tried intake actually) but im thinking maybe having it as intake would blow over my mobo and ram a bit, maybe cooling them a bit? and then being sucked up through the 2 r4 top fans?

or should i just go exhaust like i had? or would that not allow for good airflow (2 top exahuse and 2 rear exhaust and intake fans are in front and bottom?)

One extra note is that my 5850 does not exit heat through the back og the case, but rather around the card, in the case


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage* 
Rebuilding my rig in a CM690 case, and i would like to hear feedback on whether i should set my h50 to intake or exahaust?

Fan Setup:

2x120mm Cm R4 fans exhaust top
1x140mm CM stock intake front fan
Maybe add a bottom 120mm r4 as intake

so, which would be better for flow, making the H50 (gentle typhoon push/pull) as intake or exhaust?

In my antec 902 i had it as exhaust (never tried intake actually) but im thinking maybe having it as intake would blow over my mobo and ram a bit, maybe cooling them a bit? and then being sucked up through the 2 r4 top fans?

or should i just go exhaust like i had? or would that not allow for good airflow (2 top exahuse and 2 rear exhaust and intake fans are in front and bottom?)

One extra note is that my 5850 does not exit heat through the back og the case, but rather around the card, in the case

anyone?


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage* 
Rebuilding my rig in a CM690 case, and i would like to hear feedback on whether i should set my h50 to intake or exahaust?

Fan Setup:

2x120mm Cm R4 fans exhaust top
1x140mm CM stock intake front fan
Maybe add a bottom 120mm r4 as intake

so, which would be better for flow, making the H50 (gentle typhoon push/pull) as intake or exhaust?

In my antec 902 i had it as exhaust (never tried intake actually) but im thinking maybe having it as intake would blow over my mobo and ram a bit, maybe cooling them a bit? and then being sucked up through the 2 r4 top fans?

or should i just go exhaust like i had? or would that not allow for good airflow (2 top exahuse and 2 rear exhaust and intake fans are in front and bottom?)

One extra note is that my 5850 does not exit heat through the back og the case, but rather around the card, in the case


Maybe test them both(that won't be any hassle - its just switching the H50 fans between exhaust/intake & some other fans - just a case airflow test)... it would be better if you decide which cools better for you on your own testings.. since at all honestly it isn't the same for everyone... unless someone with your exact case has your exact set up & clock/voltages etc... as well.

But as for me right now(even if my H50 is beat up currently), on my CM590, I have my front 2 Intake(1 top *CPU level* & 1 bottom *hard drives level*), 2 side panel Intake, 2 top Exhaust & then the H50 @ rear mount + push/pull exhaust... all CM R4's fans(all running at 1800rpm), the PSU corsair tx850w bottom intake / rear exhaust.... its doing alright for me. Now... both of my video cards throw their heat through the rear of the case, so my vidcards heat effect is different. And of my testing as for the H50 as Exhaust gave me a better temp than Intake.

I would suggest you experiment and test.. to see what comes out better for you.. since you are rebuilding the set up.. you have time to do such tests of better air flow.


----------



## KruperTrooper

Intake. CM690 has 2 top exhausts. You can add that R4 on the bottom to create an air current in your case.


----------



## Reactions

Here's some pictures of my case (I did turn the H50 Radiator







):



























The H50 rad is intake since I've got three exhaust fans in the top


----------



## Rick Arter

My current set up inside my 690 II advanced under construction.


----------



## mayford5

Quote:


Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage* 
anyone?

I would intake on this one. As long as you def know it isn't exhasting out the back


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mayford5* 
I would intake on this one. As long as you def know it isn't exhasting out the back

yeah, im gonna go intake, since ill have 2 top exhaust fans


----------



## Kand

Intake.. Sure beats the purpose of having dust filters on a case.


----------



## Ceadderman

Don't you mean Exhaust then?









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kand* 
Intake.. Sure beats the purpose of having dust filters on a case.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 









Don't you mean Exhaust then?









~Ceadder









lol, i was gonna say, sarcasm? lol


----------



## Kand

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reactions* 









The H50 rad is intake since I've got three exhaust fans in the top









Reacting at this post. Dust stuck on the rad degrades airflow. Therefore degrades cooling ability.


----------



## Reactions

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kand*


Reacting at this post. Dust stuck on the rad degrades airflow. Therefore degrades cooling ability.


What do you other guys think? Is my airflow setup stupid?


----------



## saiyanzzrage

ive changed cases a few times in the last month, and ive had to remount my h50...im using ocz freeze as my tim, and putting a small dot in the center and putting the h50 pump on it and turning it a few degrees then securing it down

i looked at the base of my h50 and there are some superficial scratches on it (im assuming from rotating the pump its hitting the edges of the proc and causing it)

to those who arent using the stock tim, what are your application methods? should i just put the dot in the center and mount the pump without rotating it? (im doing what i used to do with the huge pipe aircoolers ive used in the past so there are no air bubbles between the heatsing and proc)


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reactions* 
What do you other guys think? Is my airflow setup stupid?

Simple what does hot air do? It rises, Ok you have a HD 5970. There is a lot of hot air coming out the rear of you case via your HD 5970. Where does that hot air go? Up. Then where does it go after it goes up? Into your H50. Now I've talked about what happens to the mixing of cold & hot air, but what about the heat exchange? Is it going to cool as well if there was hot air going into your H50? No it wont, heat and more heat don't exchange very well. Heat and cool now you are talking. In my airflow design I follow how heat actually works. Even if some benchmarker at Corsair tell me different. I know how heat works and I'm going to follow that accordingly.










EDIT: I don't think your airflow setup is stupid, but I don't think it's right.


----------



## Ceadderman

This...

I concur(don't all have heart attacks now







) with Pings.

If you're going to run intake, I would run all intakes at top and exhaust out the back. You'll have an easier time filtering it too as it will be most accessible this way.

I can't run mine until I get all the bugs worked out with my new system and the hardware to run 2 more fans on it. Then of course I have to lap both the CPU and the H50 still.









But at least I know my CPU is in tip top condition. So once I get it together , I'm ceiling mounting it. Though I may have a hard time of things since my RAM cooler is larger than expected.


















MyDominators are just so kickass. Too bad the tops and the cooler are green. They don't exactly match my colors.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
Simple what does hot air do? It rises, Ok you have a HD 5970. There is a lot of hot air coming out the rear of you case via your HD 5970. Where does that hot air go? Up. Then where does it go after it goes up? Into your H50. Now I've talked about what happens to the mixing of cold & hot air, but what about the heat exchange? Is it going to cool as well if there was hot air going into your H50? No it wont, heat and more heat don't exchange very well. Heat and cool now you are talking. In my airflow design I follow how heat actually works. Even if some benchmarker at Corsair tell me different. I know how heat works and I'm going to follow that accordingly.










EDIT: I don't think your airflow setup is stupid, but I don't think it's right.


----------



## pieisgood2

are these temps reasonable.

idle:
CPU - 24c
CORE0 - 47c
CORE1 - 44c
CORE2 - 49c
CORE3 - 44c

load:
CPU - 58c
CORE0 - 71c
CORE1 - 67c
CORE2 - 70c
CORE3 - 67c

i completed 10 runs of intel burn test at maximum on 4 threads.
my ambient temps are 25c.
my cpu is clocked at 3.375ghz with 1.33vcore


----------



## KruperTrooper

Where do you guys plug the pump into? I was thinking the motherboard pin socket but isn't that temperature controlled? So the pump won't run at full speed, right?


----------



## pieisgood2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KruperTrooper* 
Where do you guys plug the pump into? I was thinking the motherboard pin socket but isn't that temperature controlled? So the pump won't run at full speed, right?

plug it into one of the mobo headers, preferably not the cpu header because your mobo might throttle the pump.


----------



## Ceadderman

Correct. You're sposed to plug it into one of the optional fan plugs on the board. I have 8 on this thing. But only 3 reachable from where I'm mounting mine.









And all of mine are controlled by the board unless I disable one in the BIOS settings to run full speed.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *KruperTrooper* 
Where do you guys plug the pump into? I was thinking the motherboard pin socket but isn't that temperature controlled? So the pump won't run at full speed, right?


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
This...

I concur(don't all have heart attacks now







) with Pings.

If you're going to run intake, I would run all intakes at top and exhaust out the back. You'll have an easier time filtering it too as it will be most accessible this way.

I can't run mine until I get all the bugs worked out with my new system and the hardware to run 2 more fans on it. Then of course I have to lap both the CPU and the H50 still.









But at least I know my CPU is in tip top condition. So once I get it together , I'm ceiling mounting it. Though I may have a hard time of things since my RAM cooler is larger than expected.


















MyDominators are just so kickass. Too bad the tops and the cooler are green. They don't exactly match my colors.









~Ceadder









in my situation, i think it might be ok with the above setup, since my 5850 doesnt exhaust out the rear of the case, so intake h50 and exhaust top with front intake should be ok for me?


----------



## Ceadderman

You can run it anyway you want. I'm not running it in the back, not because of my GPU. But because I already have a 230 exhausting at the top so having the H50 in exhaust next to it won't pose any problems and because most of the heat is going out the 230 which is directly above the MoBo. To the right(looking in) of the 230 is a clean spot where air infiltrates the case at the front(even with my extreme taping measures on the bay plates) 5.25 bays. So technically with 88 cfm x 2 in Push/Pull config with a shroud it may as well be set up as intake.









So I take it your 5850 is an open shrouded GPU? Which makes sense I guess, since you intimated that it's not going to be exhausting out the back.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage* 
in my situation, i think it might be ok with the above setup, since my 5850 doesnt exhaust out the rear of the case, so intake h50 and exhaust top with front intake should be ok for me?


----------



## pieisgood2

i must have gotten a sweet h50 pump, mine usually stays around 1520rpm's


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage* 
in my situation, i think it might be ok with the above setup, since my 5850 doesnt exhaust out the rear of the case, so intake h50 and exhaust top with front intake should be ok for me?

You can try it both ways but I think in your case, intake is best. Grab some pantyhose and make a filter for you H50. I'm sure you can figure out some way to attach it.


----------



## indofulioh

Took some pics today...




























EDIT: yikes, didn't notice how noisy these pics were.


----------



## L33tGunner

How good do these cool in the Raven RV02? and how would you set it up?


----------



## Iroh

Finally got my GT 15 fans on the H50! As I see there are many using corsair push / antec tri-cool pull users here, these in exhaust beat the former combo by 2-3C. Not even my setup as intake's temps were this low.

Another random thumbs up for the GT fans. I can't even hear them with a shroud on the pull fan.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *metallicamaster3* 
10,000 posts!

Gutted I missed it







Glad to see the club is prospering when I'm not around. After around 700 pages I sort of gave up trying to keep up with the stream of questions, but you don't seem to miss me too much!


----------



## Reactions

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pings* 
Simple what does hot air do? It rises, Ok you have a HD 5970. There is a lot of hot air coming out the rear of you case via your HD 5970. Where does that hot air go? Up. Then where does it go after it goes up? Into your H50. Now I've talked about what happens to the mixing of cold & hot air, but what about the heat exchange? Is it going to cool as well if there was hot air going into your H50? No it wont, heat and more heat don't exchange very well. Heat and cool now you are talking. In my airflow design I follow how heat actually works. Even if some benchmarker at Corsair tell me different. I know how heat works and I'm going to follow that accordingly.










EDIT: I don't think your airflow setup is stupid, but I don't think it's right.

I didn't think about the gpu rear exhaust, you got a point there. But at your picture you have all your top fans as exhaust, but you have that fancy front intake thing which I don't have. Should I still go exhaust with all those fans and just relying on the bottom stock fan as intake? Or should I Flip the three top fans to intake? Please help. I got my chip stable at 4 ghz at 1.248v, whuh is pretty good for an 860, but I still get pretty high temperatures. During 9 hours of Prime95 the max temp was 80c but it was hovering between 70-80c.


----------



## Kand

I would imagine better temperatures if you had the H50 as Exhaust.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well, it took me some time but I lapped my H50...

1 sheet of 1000 grit wet sanded...









1 sheet of 1200 grit wet sanded...









2 sheets of 1500 grit, 1 wet and 1 dry...









The final result after 1 sheet of 2000 grit...









And a better shot...









Soon I'll be dismantling my setup long enough to remove the stock cooler lap the CPU and mount the H50 up top. Probably Monday.









~Ceadder


----------



## zefs

Nice work on lapping, don't forget to give us some before and after temp results!


----------



## SM0k3

That lap look really good Ceadder, I'm also interested in knowing what kind of differences it makes.

Also my CPU hit an all time low with the H50 today idling @ 23c and as I type this I'm encoding a movie using all 4 cores(100%) and the temps are steady at 33c.


----------



## zefs

I also lapped mine few days ago, but didn't notice much of a difference maybe couple of C. Didn't lap the cpu though.


----------



## Reactions

Ceadder look at the top of this page. Need help lol ^^


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reactions* 
Ceadder look at the top of this page. Need help lol ^^

Please post the POST # the number of posts per page can be changed so the top page is not the top page for every one else,...


----------



## alayoubi

Hi guys ..

i am looking for a 240mm RAD But with the same Thickness of the original H50 Rad , is that available ?

And could i share my vga card with the water loop of H50 without any problem ?

thanks


----------



## dracotonisamond

Quote:


Originally Posted by *indofulioh* 
Took some pics today...
EDIT: yikes, didn't notice how noisy these pics were.

neat pics. what camera do you use? love your setup and the DOF









tomorrow i think im getting Mr. HAF X. i'll post some temps with my setup









i also ordered enough fans to fill all the slots to the brim, turns out with my 120x120x25mm fan, the vga shroud will be able to be placed with my 5970 w00t.

they recommend a 38mm wide fan, they also say use of the shroud can decrease clearance by up to 40mm. that means the shroud is 2mm thick at the mount.

ive calculated out ill have 12.4 inches of clearance with the fan and shroud. the 5970 is 12.2 inches long.









i'll be using these on the vga shroud and the H50.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103063


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dracotonisamond* 
neat pics. what camera do you use? love your setup and the DOF









tomorrow i think im getting Mr. HAF X. i'll post some temps with my setup









i also ordered enough fans to fill all the slots to the brim, turns out with my 120x120x25mm fan, the vga shroud will be able to be placed with my 5970 w00t.

they recommend a 38mm wide fan, they also say use of the shroud can decrease clearance by up to 40mm. that means the shroud is 2mm thick at the mount.

ive calculated out ill have 12.4 inches of clearance with the fan and shroud. the 5970 is 12.2 inches long.









i'll be using these on the vga shroud and the H50.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103063

those pics he posted looks more of Photoshop edits to me


----------



## fssbzz

my lapped H50









more pictures will upload later. i uploaded all into my facebook, but forget to upload it into photobucket = =


----------



## Ceadderman

Check out post #10032. I had a psychic moment. But it probably got lost in the shuffle.









Since Pings has the 800D, I would certainly defer to him on most aspects of the case. But I did answer how you might go about setting up your fans. I have 3 exhausts and 3 intakes on mine.

Anyway just take a look @ #10032 and lemme know if you still have fan questions.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Reactions*


Ceadder look at the top of this page. Need help lol ^^


I'm not sure you need a lapping as your temps are REALLY good.









If you get a couple degrees less on the back end I'd be surprised. It could be you already have a reasonably flat cooler:CPU surface contact. This is why you do a lapping.

That said, I will be posting my pre lapp temps and post lapp temps once I get it done.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SM0k3*


That lap look really good Ceadder, I'm also interested in knowing what kind of differences it makes.

Also my CPU hit an all time low with the H50 today idling @ 23c and as I type this I'm encoding a movie using all 4 cores(100%) and the temps are steady at 33c.
























Thanks for mentioning this. Right now I'm currently on 40 posts per page. But once I get all 8 Gigs from my Win7, I'm going back to 100 per page. The amount of photos loading was killing my load times per page in XP.









So hopefully people will take your lead and post the post # they refer to. Oh...

...speaking of which, I know I can't cure this issue posting here in this thread about it but maybe we can refrain from linking to a post as well? All it does is take people back to the OP. At least it does it for me. It's quite annoying to get a link that doesn't work. Even more annoying when the link defeats the purpose and basically says "It's in there somewhere guy, have fun".









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Please post the POST # the number of posts per page can be changed so the top page is not the top page for every one else,...


3 things...

1) Solid lapping.









2) Looks like a primo moddification of your H50

3) Please tell me that's not Automotive Grade Antifreeze?








Remember that stuff does not go down a drain (leeches into water table), animals are prone to ingest the stuff(smells sweet) to a painfully gory end, and it's only meant for freezing temps. Hence the term anti-freeze. ALSO point of order here is that stuff gives off vapors when it's burned. So you definitely want to either change it out or continue paying $10 a gal to keep it filled. It still evaporates like standard h2o. But the point is Ethylene Glycol is nothing the shag about with.

I apologize for the negative (rant) feedback, but this is the 3rd time I've now seen its use and to me that's scary since I worked in the Automotive industry for a bit. Especially when Distilled Water is readily had for under $2 a gallon, is a solid coolant and with a bit of food coloring can be dyed. All you need is an anti-corrosive added to the mix and you're good.

Oh that reminds me... Anti-Freeze is a corrosive compound. Not good in a loop. Even one that's self contained.









I apologize for the bluntness.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


my lapped H50









more pictures will upload later. i uploaded all into my facebook, but forget to upload it into photobucket = =


----------



## Pings

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reactions* 
I didn't think about the gpu rear exhaust, you got a point there. But at your picture you have all your top fans as exhaust, but you have that fancy front intake thing which I don't have. Should I still go exhaust with all those fans and just relying on the bottom stock fan as intake? Or should I Flip the three top fans to intake? Please help. I got my chip stable at 4 ghz at 1.248v, whuh is pretty good for an 860, but I still get pretty high temperatures. During 9 hours of Prime95 the max temp was 80c but it was hovering between 70-80c.

If you are going to setup it up like mine. You only need one top exhaust. You don't want to many exhaust fans up there. It will force out some of your airflow that you want going to you H50. One is just fine, 2 is OK ~, and 3 is too much.


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Ok, it seems as if the guy doing the push/pull/shroud testing abandoned his thread, so I'll ask here.

Currently, this is how my H50 is set up...

< Case | Rad | Coolermaster R4 <










...it is exhausting air, with the help of a Coolermaster R4. I have another R4 exhausting air in the top of the case, two intake on the front and two intake on the side panel. My current idle temp is 33-34c, but is usually around 37-38c. I haven't run Prime95 today, but I did yesterday when idle was around 37-38c and under load it maxed out at 52c.

What I was wanting to do, if it will yield lower temps...

< Case | Rad | 38-50mm Shroud | CoolerMaster R4 <

Will adding that shroud noticeably reduce my idle and load temps? Will I see better results adding the shroud, plus a pull fan on the outside of the case? Will I see better results doing either of those, but having the fan(s) as intake rather than exhaust?

I originally had the rad and fan mounted in the 5.25" bay, as intake, but I felt that even though the rad was getting fresh air, it was exhausting the now-hot air all over my RAM and CPU so I moved them to the back of the case as exhaust. I think this did have some effect on the CPU temps, they seem a bit lower than before.

I prefer a clean and low-profile look, so I prefer to not have anything mounted on the outside of the case, and I don't want this thing being right up against the pump head on the CPU...so this kind of rules out a push/pull setup. My existing setup plus a shroud will be pushing it, but it's something I can live with.


----------



## pieisgood2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *johnny.dot.exe* 
Ok, it seems as if the guy doing the push/pull/shroud testing abandoned his thread, so I'll ask here.

Currently, this is how my H50 is set up...

< Case | Rad | Coolermaster R4 <










...it is exhausting air, with the help of a Coolermaster R4. I have another R4 exhausting air in the top of the case, two intake on the front and two intake on the side panel. My current idle temp is 33-34c, but is usually around 37-38c. I haven't run Prime95 today, but I did yesterday when idle was around 37-38c and under load it maxed out at 52c.

What I was wanting to do, if it will yield lower temps...

< Case | Rad | 38-50mm Shroud | CoolerMaster R4 <

Will adding that shroud noticeably reduce my idle and load temps? Will I see better results adding the shroud, plus a pull fan on the outside of the case? Will I see better results doing either of those, but having the fan(s) as intake rather than exhaust?

I originally had the rad and fan mounted in the 5.25" bay, as intake, but I felt that even though the rad was getting fresh air, it was exhausting the now-hot air all over my RAM and CPU so I moved them to the back of the case as exhaust. I think this did have some effect on the CPU temps, they seem a bit lower than before.

I prefer a clean and low-profile look, so I prefer to not have anything mounted on the outside of the case, and I don't want this thing being right up against the pump head on the CPU...so this kind of rules out a push/pull setup. My existing setup plus a shroud will be pushing it, but it's something I can live with.

you should do a push/pull exhaust setup first, then add shrouds if you want to lower temps some more. push/pull will definitely lower your temps


----------



## SPEEDemon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alayoubi* 
Hi guys ..

i am looking for a 240mm RAD But with the same Thickness of the original H50 Rad , is that available ?

And could i share my vga card with the water loop of H50 without any problem ?

thanks

Here ya go:
http://www.technps.com/liquid-coolin...-hardware.html

and no, I wouldn't recommend putting your vga card into the loop, the system would simply not have enough power for that, i.e. i don't think the pump would be strong enough and that would be a lot for a single 240mm radiator to cool. You specifically might be able to get away with doing it because you don't have an overly powerful card, but I still recommend against it.


----------



## pieisgood2

"H50" for your gpu. i want one of these
http://www.coolitsystems.com/index.php/omni.html


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pieisgood2*


"H50" for your gpu. i want one of these
http://www.coolitsystems.com/index.php/omni.html


lol nice, very interesting indeed


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pieisgood2*


you should do a push/pull exhaust setup first, then add shrouds if you want to lower temps some more. push/pull will definitely lower your temps


I don't seem to have any extra R4s lying around, but I do have the original Corsair fan that came with the H50 still in the box. Should I only do push/pull with equal fans(two R4s), or will I be ok with the corsair as the pull fan?


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice...

Not sure I want to add another Rad to my system, but that's a great design.

You did notice the Corsair logo on the loop the Rep was fiddling with didn't you?









And good luck lapping THAT thing.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pieisgood2*


"H50" for your gpu. i want one of these
http://www.coolitsystems.com/index.php/omni.html


----------



## pieisgood2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage*


lol nice, very interesting indeed


i can't wait till they release these, i wouldn't be surprised if shortly after corsair releases their version of the omni alc.
it is actually kind of funny becuase i don't see many people using the eco alc even though it performs on par with the h50. if coolit releases the omni they will get the lead on corsair.


----------



## Ceadderman

Two = fans are better but you can put the Corsair fan in the puller spot. Otherwise the higher rated fan will lag the Corsair fan. Sorry if I used the wrong terminology there. Just remember weaker fan at Pull and Stronger fan at Push.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny.dot.exe*


I don't seem to have any extra R4s lying around, but I do have the original Corsair fan that came with the H50 still in the box. Should I only do push/pull with equal fans(two R4s), or will I be ok with the corsair as the pull fan?


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Two = fans are better but you can put the Corsair fan in the puller spot. Otherwise the higher rated fan will lag the Corsair fan. Sorry if I used the wrong terminology there. Just remember weaker fan at Pull and Stronger fan at Push.









~Ceadder










Sounds good, I'll do that later when I get home.


----------



## zefs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pieisgood2*


"H50" for your gpu. i want one of these
http://www.coolitsystems.com/index.php/omni.html


Great find! I am so getting one of these if it performs better than air coolers for 5870, only hope is that I will be able to find a retailer.


----------



## SM0k3

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pieisgood2*


"H50" for your gpu. i want one of these
http://www.coolitsystems.com/index.php/omni.html


That's pretty spiffy, I'd build my own custom loop before I spend more money on another pre-built though.


----------



## alayoubi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SPEEDemon*


Here ya go:
http://www.technps.com/liquid-coolin...-hardware.html

and no, I wouldn't recommend putting your vga card into the loop, the system would simply not have enough power for that, i.e. i don't think the pump would be strong enough and that would be a lot for a single 240mm radiator to cool. You specifically might be able to get away with doing it because you don't have an overly powerful card, but I still recommend against it.


you gave me a link for a ready water cooling i just need the 240mm RAD.

Do you mean that the H50 Rad is enough for the case i mentioned and what's your opinion in this one :
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post9310306

also i think to buy a GPU block for the future not only for my current card i mean an universal GPU block for ati & nvidia.


----------



## Ceadderman

Here you go...

Black IceÂ® GT Stealth 240 Highest Performance Radiator-29.6mm thick

This one is just slightly thicker than the H50 Rad which is 24mm thick so you won't lose much space and it has bungs for a variety of fittings. If you go to a custom loop you can change them w/o fear of them being the wrong size for your needs.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *alayoubi*


you gave me a link for a ready water cooling i just need the 240mm RAD.

Do you mean that the H50 Rad is enough for the case i mentioned and what's your opinion in this one :
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post9310306

also i think to buy a GPU block for the future not only for my current card i mean an universal GPU block for ati & nvidia.


----------



## alayoubi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Here you go...

Black IceÂ® GT Stealth 240 Highest Performance Radiator-29.6mm thick

This one is just slightly thicker than the H50 Rad which is 24mm thick so you won't lose much space and it has bungs for a variety of fittings. If you go to a custom loop you can change them w/o fear of them being the wrong size for your needs.









~Ceadder









Thanks Dude ..

OK ,, is the stock H50 Rad enough for the cpu and gpu blocks togather ??


----------



## Ceadderman

Do you mean the Pump?









I'm sure the stock Rad would be enough as you're not really introducing a stopper or unimaginable length to the system. So long as the pump stays submerged it should have enough power for the stock Rad. Not sure about the extended Rad AND another block. But people add Reservoirs so anything is possible I guess.

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *alayoubi* 
Thanks Dude ..

OK ,, is the stock H50 Rad enough for the cpu and gpu blocks togather ??


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Two = fans are better but you can put the Corsair fan in the puller spot. Otherwise the higher rated fan will lag the Corsair fan. Sorry if I used the wrong terminology there. Just remember weaker fan at Pull and Stronger fan at Push.









~Ceadder









Just to make sure I have this right, I'm going from this setup...

< Case | Rad | CoolerMaster R4 <

To...

< Case | Corsair | Rad | Coolermaster R4 <

With the air still exiting the case, the R4 being the pusher in this line-up.

Correct?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny.dot.exe*


Just to make sure I have this right, I'm going from this setup...

< Case | Rad | CoolerMaster R4 <

To...

< Case | Corsair | Rad | Coolermaster R4 <

With the air still exiting the case, the R4 being the pusher in this line-up.

Correct?


You got it!


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


You got it!










Only a 1-2c drop in CPU temp. May remove the Corsair fan, mount the rad back to the case, and put a 38-50mm shroud between the rad and the R4 to see if that yields a better drop in temps.

Here's a current screenshot of my temps at idle/stock clocks with an ambient temp around 75...










Should I be running the H50 power off the CPU fan plug on the motherboard, or should I be running it on molex where my 7 120mm fans pull their power from? Reason I ask is because I'm not sure if I should have the pump running full duty all the time, or fluctuate based on what the BIOS tells it to do.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny.dot.exe*


Should I be running the H50 power off the CPU fan plug on the motherboard, or should I be running it on molex where my 7 120mm fans pull their power from? Reason I ask is because I'm not sure if I should have the pump running full duty all the time, or fluctuate based on what the BIOS tells it to do.


The pump should be running 100% at all times. You can do this by either plugging directly off the PSU or off a motherboard header. If you decide to use the motherboard header, just be sure to go into BIOS and turn off any fan header controlling. Doing so, allows it to run at 100%. So, either way will work, it just depends on how you wish to power it.


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


The pump should be running 100% at all times. You can do this by either plugging directly off the PSU or off a motherboard header. If you decide to use the motherboard header, just be sure to go into BIOS and turn off any fan header controlling. Doing so, allows it to run at 100%. So, either way will work, it just depends on how you wish to power it.


Well CPUID HW shows the "CPU Fan" RPM fluctuating a bit, does this mean BIOS is controlling it instead of running it on full speed constantly?


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *johnny.dot.exe* 
Well CPUID HW shows the "CPU Fan" RPM fluctuating a bit, does this mean BIOS is controlling it instead of running it on full speed constantly?

That's normal. It should stay close to 1400rpm. Usually the CPU fan header won't vary the voltage when you stick a 3pin plug (pump) into it.


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
That's normal. It should stay close to 1400rpm. Usually the CPU fan header won't vary the voltage when you stick a 3pin plug (pump) into it.

Yeah, it's ranging from 1385 to 1426, staying around 1400 most of the time. In my BIOS I can choose 3pin or 4pin for the CPU plug, and turn off the CPU smart target crap.

Well, looks like 30-32c is my new idle temp. Currently sitting at 42c while playing BFBC2 maxed out in 1440x900 windowed mode. Not too bad.


----------



## Ceadderman

Stick to the Optional Fan placement. If you go CPU placement the pump will fluctuate and not operate at peak speeds. Which is where you want it to run. Then plug your fans in at the CPU connector and that should keep your system running optimally I believe. Yup just looked over the literature again and sure enough...

Fan ---> CPU connector
Pump---> Any available 3 pin...(Option 1 is probably best)

If you go with option 1 you'll know exactly which fan to set to full speed in the BIOS.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *johnny.dot.exe* 
Well CPUID HW shows the "CPU Fan" RPM fluctuating a bit, does this mean BIOS is controlling it instead of running it on full speed constantly?


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Stick to the Optional Fan placement. If you go CPU placement the pump will fluctuate and not operate at peak speeds. Which is where you want it to run. Then plug your fans in at the CPU connector and that should keep your system running optimally I believe. Yup just looked over the literature again and sure enough...

Fan ---> CPU connector
Pump---> Any available 3 pin...(Option 1 is probably best)

If you go with option 1 you'll know exactly which fan to set to full speed in the BIOS.









~Ceadder









All seven of my 120mm fans are running off molex...two front, two side, one top, two rear for push/pull on rad. The only thing plugged in to the fan headers on the motherboard is the H50 pump.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ahhhh, unlike moi, who has them all but 2 plugged into the MoBo.









At least my Power Fan and CPU fan points will be available to me.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny.dot.exe*


All seven of my 120mm fans are running off molex...two front, two side, one top, two rear for push/pull on rad. The only thing plugged in to the fan headers on the motherboard is the H50 pump.


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Ahhhh, unlike moi, who has them all but 2 plugged into the MoBo.









At least my Power Fan and CPU fan points will be available to me.









~Ceadder










Yeah, I wanted all my fans to run at max so I created a female molex harness to plug in to the molex rail from the PSU and ran the other end to a 12post/6rail terminal block. One side is the "hot side", and the other side is where all my fans connect. Cuts down on a ton of wiring, and hides it all behind the motherboard panel.

Here's a pic of my molex terminal block before I connected all my fans to it...










Keep forgetting to get a pic of it all hooked up.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice series work on that block. That's a helluva idea.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny.dot.exe*


Yeah, I wanted all my fans to run at max so I created a female molex harness to plug in to the molex rail from the PSU and ran the other end to a 12post/6rail terminal block. One side is the "hot side", and the other side is where all my fans connect. Cuts down on a ton of wiring, and hides it all behind the motherboard panel.

Here's a pic of my molex terminal block before I connected all my fans to it...










Keep forgetting to get a pic of it all hooked up.


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


3 things...

1) Solid lapping.









2) Looks like a primo moddification of your H50

3) Please tell me that's not Automotive Grade Antifreeze?








Remember that stuff does not go down a drain (leeches into water table), animals are prone to ingest the stuff(smells sweet) to a painfully gory end, and it's only meant for freezing temps. Hence the term anti-freeze. ALSO point of order here is that stuff gives off vapors when it's burned. So you definitely want to either change it out or continue paying $10 a gal to keep it filled. It still evaporates like standard h2o. But the point is Ethylene Glycol is nothing the shag about with.

I apologize for the negative (rant) feedback, but this is the 3rd time I've now seen its use and to me that's scary since I worked in the Automotive industry for a bit. Especially when Distilled Water is readily had for under $2 a gallon, is a solid coolant and with a bit of food coloring can be dyed. All you need is an anti-corrosive added to the mix and you're good.

Oh that reminds me... Anti-Freeze is a corrosive compound. Not good in a loop. Even one that's self contained.









I apologize for the bluntness.









~Ceadder










nope. that's not a automotive antifreeze coolant or wadever automotive ****.








it's a UV coolant from swiftech.
nah, don't have to apologize. and thanks for the advice.


----------



## vietrice89

getting 35-37 idle and 49-52 load. Are these good temps?


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vietrice89*


getting 35-37 idle and 49-52 load. Are these good temps?


That's about what I was getting with my H50 + R4 on my 965BE. I added a second fan to the rad for push/pull and reduced the temps about 2c.


----------



## vietrice89

I have a push/pull. It's at the front of my case as an intake. It use to be at the back but I didn't like not being able to have 2 side fans so tinkered around to make it fit. Reduced my temps a good 3-4 degrees


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vietrice89* 
I have a push/pull. It's at the front of my case as an intake. It use to be at the back but I didn't like not being able to have 2 side fans so tinkered around to make it fit. Reduced my temps a good 3-4 degrees

I had mine at the front as intake with only one fan pushing, in the 5.25" bay...moved it to the back as exhaust because even though the rad was getting fresh air, it was heating that air up before it was blown all over the RAM/CPU/etc and increasing the case temp. Once in the back as exhaust, before adding the pull fan, all temps(GPU, HDD, Case, Etc) dropped 1-2c due to that hot air no longer being blown around in the case.

Currently I have two R4s in front as intake, two on the side as intake, one on top as exhaust, rear has one as exhaust/push and a Corsair as exhaust/pull for the rad. This seems to be the most optimal setup for me so far, I may try out the shroud thing just to see what that gets me. Will eventually order one more R4 to replace that Corsair, since having that paired with an R4 is probably sub-optimal.


----------



## vietrice89

Quote:


Originally Posted by *johnny.dot.exe* 
I had mine at the front as intake with only one fan pushing, in the 5.25" bay...moved it to the back as exhaust because even though the rad was getting fresh air, it was heating that air up before it was blown all over the RAM/CPU/etc and increasing the case temp. Once in the back as exhaust, before adding the pull fan, all temps(GPU, HDD, Case, Etc) dropped 1-2c due to that hot air no longer being blown around in the case.

Currently I have two R4s in front as intake, two on the side as intake, one on top as exhaust, rear has one as exhaust/push and a Corsair as exhaust/pull for the rad. This seems to be the most optimal setup for me so far, I may try out the shroud thing just to see what that gets me. Will eventually order one more R4 to replace that Corsair, since having that paired with an R4 is probably sub-optimal.

The shroud thing actually works lol. I was skeptical at first too. I just took out the blades of old fans. I did intake Fan-shroud-shroud-rad-shroud-fan

I'm using yate high-speeds. I put it at the front as intake with my side/top/back fans as exhaust. Bottom intake. That so far has been the best temps for me.


----------



## digital_steve

what the hell is 'lapping'?
is it worth doing?


----------



## chriskaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


what the hell is 'lapping'?
is it worth doing?


Its taking your cpu or cooler to sandpaper and grinding it flat for better temps. Some pics


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


what the hell is 'lapping'?
is it worth doing?


Sanding the surface of the heatsink/waterblock/whatever makes contact with the CPU/GPU/whatever, getting rid of any imperfections from when it was manufactured, leaving a mirror finish when done right. Supposed to increase cooling efficiency.

You can either buy the different grits of sandpaper, or buy a lapping kit from some of the bigger pc mod websites. I haven't looked too much in to it to see how much of a difference in temp it really makes.

If I remember correctly, I think you can lap the CPU as well...I think I remember seeing a video tutorial about it somewhere.


----------



## Reactions

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pings*


If you are going to setup it up like mine. You only need one top exhaust. You don't want to many exhaust fans up there. It will force out some of your airflow that you want going to you H50. One is just fine, 2 is OK ~, and 3 is too much.


Hmm... Still what about intake? I dont really want to buy that HDD cooler. But what if I used 2 of the top exhaust fans as shrouds and using only one fan in the top. Would that be better? I still would'be to order new screws first though. If I'm going to make shrouds of two fans I could supposedly use the 2 800rpm gentletyphoons. Compared to the stock H50 fan they aint really blowing any air lol. Or what do you think?


----------



## Ceadderman

Well here goes guys, I'm powering down right now and off to the adventure of my lifetime. I'll take pics with my webcam and netbook as I go along.









~Ceadder


----------



## digital_steve

Ok... so making a better connection is the reason for lapping.
Just playing devils advocate, how the hell do you know if you've sanded it equally flat across the whole area, instead of just a pretty mirror finish on a surface that is slightly shorter on one side!?
I must be missing something

If it gives a few degrees, i'd be willing to give it a go though... as long as there is a way to make sure the end result is flat.


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:


Originally Posted by *digital_steve* 
Ok... so making a better connection is the reason for lapping.
Just playing devils advocate, how the hell do you know if you've sanded it equally flat across the whole area, instead of just a pretty mirror finish on a surface that is slightly shorter on one side!?
I must be missing something

If it gives a few degrees, i'd be willing to give it a go though... as long as there is a way to make sure the end result is flat.

Take a razor blade, lay it like so across the surface. You shouldn't be able to see any light come through if its flat.


----------



## sebastianTR

i do some little modification here


----------



## Liighthead

whats dat box?


----------



## sebastianTR

water box


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sebastianTR*


water box










sorry it does? O.O like a rez or cools bit more somehow


----------



## sebastianTR

its an aluminum box aprrox 1lt water capacity
also i little bit more cool according to plexiglas rez.


----------



## sequencius

Does the H50 require any power? I'm only gonna run a 450w...


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sequencius* 
Does the H50 require any power? I'm only gonna run a 450w...

Just power to the fan(s) and I think the radiator requires about the same as a fan too.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sequencius* 
Does the H50 require any power? I'm only gonna run a 450w...

450's plenty. You will be fine. I run my Rig with a 400, see sig rig. The H50 does use some power for the fan and Pump but Its not really a noticable amount.


----------



## sequencius

Okay so I just ordered one from Tigerdirect cus it was on sale again for 59.99$ flat (no shipping no tax) which is perfect.

I have an NZXT Gamma and from looking at a few other similar setups it seems like one of the top fans (120mm) will need to be removed =[. I guess I can take one out and use it to "sandwich" the radiator? Is it necessay to sandwich the radiator with 2 fans?

Is there any extra hardware that I might need to purchase? Like extra 120mm screws for the sandwiching fan..

Btw I'm using a micro-atx mobo if that makes any difference.. It's a Biostar A785G3 which was TOO GOOD of a mobo too pass up for the price.

I hope I don't regret this decision on the H50...worse comes to worse I'll just have to purchase a new case


----------



## Fantomau

You can use the push-pull setup, But if not, Then no you dont have to buy anything else.

If you do use the push/pull setup, You'll have to get another fan and 4 extra screws to screw in the fan to the pump.

$59 at tigerdirect? I see it at TD for $79.99 no sale.

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...7&Sku=C13-2528

As far as the H50 goes, I dont think you'll regret it, I love mine.


----------



## sequencius

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fantomau*


You can use the push-pull setup, But if not, Then no you dont have to buy anything else.

If you do use the push/pull setup, You'll have to get another fan and 4 extra screws to screw in the fan to the pump.

$59 at tigerdirect? I see it at TD for $79.99 no sale.

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...7&Sku=C13-2528

As far as the H50 goes, I dont think you'll regret it, I love mine.


Sorry about that, it requires a coupon code: MGO2773


----------



## Fantomau

Now thats good deal there. Wonder how long that deal will last.

Thanx for posting the code. I am sure others who might wanna get it will be damn happy too


----------



## AdvanSuper

Just did a search on Q9400 in here... I don't know how some people hit such low temps









How is the push/pull setup all I seen were pictures. Do you put one fan pushing air into the rad and the other pulling it out?


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay, got my Lap done.









Even bled for my effort. Actually sanded into the meat of my ring fingertip.









Before temp averaged between 42-47c @ idle

Using Shin-Etsu x23 the after temp is a chilly 33-37c @ idle.

But Iz sad now. My MoBo has a dead RAM slot.









Already checked my Dominators and every one of them posts from the first two slots. It's when you get the other 2 in that the system refuses to Post. The startup LEDs' go to two and then alternate back and forth instead of Posting.

All that hard work and epic fail by the MoBo.









So please take my temp results with a grain of salt...

Oh before I forget and to get me back on topic, the double sided tape this H50 comes with is crap. It's too thick. I did EVERYTHING exactly right put my TIM on and found out in a hurry that you can't get the ring to lift up enough to twist and snap the pump into place.









So you new guys should be aware that you should probably replace the double sided with something slightly thinner. That would make things MUCH easier. I had to let out the upper to locking screws and loosen the bottoms til the were almost out. As it the lower right did pop out as I got the Upper and Lower Left into place. Otherwise it was smooth sailing the rest of the way.

I'll be posting pics soon. I have to go to newegg and have an RMA done.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Oh before I forget and to get me back on topic, the double sided tape this H50 comes with is crap. It's too thick. I did EVERYTHING exactly right put my TIM on and found out in a hurry that you can't get the ring to lift up enough to twist and snap the pump into place.









So you new guys should be aware that you should probably replace the double sided with something slightly thinner. That would make things MUCH easier. I had to let out the upper to locking screws and loosen the bottoms til the were almost out. As it the lower right did pop out as I got the Upper and Lower Left into place. Otherwise it was smooth sailing the rest of the way.

I'll be posting pics soon. I have to go to newegg and have an RMA done.









~Ceadder










temps&lap









Dead memory slot









Ceadderman it took me a sec to figure out what you were talking about but i see your point now. it reminded me of a funny story.. I had to return a bad mobo to frys here in wilsonville and i couldn't get the H50 backplate off and was trying to get there before they closed so i figured i'd do it there since i was out of time and they had the chemicals. Well after the paperwork it was time for the H50 backplate to my astonishment he went in with a tiny flat head and proceeded to try and remove the stackcool














That went on for about 5-10 secs until i stopped him.

Heres a helpful hint guys when you place the double sided tape peel back just a little bit say less than 1/4 of it and cut it with scissors for the mobo and plate side to aid in the installation "sort of so" and serves no other purpose but WOW at full length its a nightmare to get off without the right chemicals


----------



## Ceadderman

lol Well at the time it wasn't funny. I was getting slightly annoyed with the setup, since too much pressure at the CPU can bust pins. Busted pins and a fresh Lapp = Fokked









Well here's some fresh pics of my finished product and my setup sans CPU cooler and 2 dominators.













































I'm not even going to muck with the tape. I'm just going to remove the adapter and leave the tape. If newegg has a problem with it they can refund my money and I'll get another one someplace else since that's not the cause of the problem.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


[email protected] lap









Dead memory slot









Ceadderman it took me a sec to figure out what you were talking about but i see your point now. it reminded me of a funny story.. I had to return a bad mobo to frys here in wilsonville and i couldn't get the H50 backplate off and was trying to get there before they closed so i figured i'd do it there since i was out of time and they had the chemicals. Well after the paperwork it was time for the H50 backplate to my astonishment he went in with a tiny flat head and proceeded to try and remove the stackcool














That went on for about 5-10 secs until i stopped him.

Heres a helpful hint guys when you place the double sided tape peel back just a little bit say less than 1/4 of it and cut it with scissors for the mobo and plate side to aid in the installation and serves no other purpose but WOW at full length its a nightmare to get off without the right chemicals


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


lol Well at the time it wasn't funny. I was getting slightly annoyed with the setup, since too much pressure at the CPU can bust pins. Busted pins and a fresh Lapp = Fokked









Well here's some fresh pics of my finished product and my setup sans CPU cooler and 2 dominators.


















I'm not even going to muck with the tape. I'm just going to remove the adapter and leave the tape. If newegg has a problem with it they can refund my money and I'll get another one someplace else since that's not the cause of the problem.









~Ceadder










Very nice









Yeah i never took the lapping into consideration. I'm a Finish Carpenter by trade so i can appreciate the less than 1/16th changes and compensation. If you would have to guess how much material is removed from the cpu?

I would love to see more lapping and finding out it doesn't void the warrenty makes it better.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice, I come from a long line of craftsmen. Only skipped one generation as my ex-stepdad only tinkered. He wasn't much into scratch building anything and a framing hammer is his idea of finish work.









If I had to guess I'd say maybe 1/32" worth of material. If that. I honestly didn't have much in the way of copper dust. Though it stuck mostly to the paper. I activate my paper by running it over a straight edge, to open the pores and allow the grit to do a better job. Easier to blow the dust off and saves paper.

I went through 4 pages of 1000
4 pages of 1200
3 pages of 1500
1 2000

I wish it didn't void warranties but I wasn't worried about voiding mine as I was going to Lapp it anyway. I advise for anyone that wants to Lapp their CPU to give it a shakedown run prior to doing it. That way if there is an issue it can be handled by the warranty. Afterwards it's too late.

This was my very 1st Lapping btw. If I didn't know tools and metals, I probably wouldn't have ever done something like this. But I've always been good with my hands, so I wasn't worried. Just jumped right in feet first.







lol

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
Very nice









Yeah i never took the lapping into consideration. I'm a Finish Carpenter by trade so i can appreciate the less than 1/16th changes and compensation. If you would have to guess how much material is removed from the cpu?

I would love to see more lapping and finding out it doesn't void the warrenty makes it better.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Nice, I come from a long line of craftsmen. Only skipped one generation as my ex-stepdad only tinkered. He wasn't much into scratch building anything and a framing hammer is his idea of finish work.









If I had to guess I'd say maybe 1/32" worth of material. If that. I honestly didn't have much in the way of copper dust. Though it stuck mostly to the paper. I activate my paper by running it over a straight edge, to open the pores and allow the grit to do a better job. Easier to blow the dust off and saves paper.

I went through 4 pages of 1000
4 pages of 1200
3 pages of 1500
1 2000

I wish it didn't void warranties but I wasn't worried about voiding mine as I was going to Lapp it anyway. I advise for anyone that wants to Lapp their CPU to give it a shakedown run prior to doing it. That way if there is an issue it can be handled by the warranty. Afterwards it's too late.

This was my very 1st Lapping btw. If I didn't know tools and metals, I probably wouldn't have ever done something like this. But I've always been good with my hands, so I wasn't worried. Just jumped right in feet first.







lol

~Ceadder










Did you use any water? Wetsand? or did you wear out a peice of paper "higher grits" using it like a buffing pad? or literally almost the whole sheet? I'm inquisitive....Sorry

This might be possible like taking two pieces of sandpaper and rubbing them together to form another grit to skip grits. Sometimes for me i have to do this with sanding hardwood flooring and refinishing. When it comes to metalwork im limited to arc welding.

I have never lapped a CPU or HSF/H50

Edit:

On a sidenote..

Ubisoft you owe me a keyboard for making assassins creed 2 pc with controls so good its not even funny but when it matters on a timed riddle they are worthless. Wireless Keyboard&mouse wanted! BNIB H50 to trade but really what a megahalem or venx for it


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope, not a drop of water on the CPU. I did wetsand the H50 but I wanted to be able to put the 955 in the socket and go.

Can't do that with water. And I just wasn't comfortable using water around an exposed chip. If I were Lapping an Intel with the plastic cover, no problem. But all I had to protect the pins was the plastic housing which would have been unwieldy and the protective foam insert. That would have acted as a sponge.

I used automotive grade wet sand capable paper. You can get it at any Napa. Tried to get emery cloth at the local Home Depot and the best I could get from them was 600 grit. Way too abrasive imho.

So I checked online and found that Napa carries paint supplies and figured they probably have it. They had everything but the 2000 grit on the floor. So after inquiring about it and $20 later I was out the door with my gear.









This stuff really isn't abrasive enough to rub together to make another grit. So basically I just flattened the 955 with a x2 1000, x2 1200, x2 1000(wasn't satisfied with how slowly 1200 was going) and then back to 1200, 1500 and then just buffed out any scratches with the single 2000. I had 2 of them but I used one on the H50 Pumper.









Oh fore I forget here is my latest YouTube Vid...








YouTube- My HAF 932...

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Did you use any water? Wetsand? or did you wear out a peice of paper "higher grits" using it like a buffing pad? or literally almost the whole sheet? I'm inquisitive....Sorry

This might be possible like taking two pieces of sandpaper and rubbing them together to form another grit to skip grits. Sometimes for me i have to do this with sanding hardwood flooring and refinishing. When it comes to metalwork im limited to arc welding.

I have never lapped a CPU or HSF/H50

Edit:

On a sidenote..

Ubisoft you owe me a keyboard for making assassins creed 2 pc with controls so good its not even funny but when it matters on a timed riddle they are worthless. Wireless Keyboard&mouse wanted! BNIB H50 to trade but really what a megahalem or venx for it


----------



## AdvanSuper

I just tried out the push/pull method didn't notice much of a change idle is around 47c load doesn't go over 60... Room temp is about 70f and system specs are below...


----------



## wolfmancha

going for quiet & H50 was the key to that...







push/pull with shrouds...more pics at my site

feedback appreciated

don't know where the pics went???? maybe someone can inform me on that..


----------



## sendblink23

Does anybody want my ***beat up*** H50?

If you want it you pay the shipping charges & you can have it
I'll include the original Corsair 120mm Fan, original box & accessories(intel/amd)... sorry I lost 1 fan skrew lol

It still works but for me I say its not cooling how it used to, my 965 at stock its hitting 55c on max load & I used to have it before at 4.21Ghz and it had lower max load temps 52c - 54c. I hope for someone else this cools better for them.

Sorry guys I simply give up on my H50... I already ordered 2 CPU air coolers: Noctua NH-D14 & Thermaltake Frio CLP0564, going to test them... who ever fails I'll sell it.

****
*The battle is over*, it was first 5 people in the fight and after I went to dismount the H50 then to my local USPS to check for the price for shipment, went back home another 2 more people wanted it... but oh well the 1st person who offered to take it off my hands won it.

*SOLD/CLOSED* "The Beat Up H50" to: *johnny.dot.exe*


----------



## Ceadderman

Not much airflow for a push/pull in a Cosmos is there?









Don't get me wrong the Pure Black Edition was my first case choice but this 932 was just nicer on the budget. If I could have found one for less than $200, I would have gotten it instead.









But I do like the High Air Flow of the 932. It allows me to exhaust my H50 at the ceiling.

Been running for a bit over 6 hours now and am dead on at 35c average temp. Checked the thermostat and it kicks the heat over at 75F So I'm running pretty close to my ambient.

The more I run the more I like this Cooler.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


I just tried out the push/pull method didn't notice much of a change idle is around 47c load doesn't go over 60... Room temp is about 70f and system specs are below...


----------



## Ceadderman

Have you stopped to consider that you Humidity levels may play a part in your cooling issues? I spent time in that part of the world when I was in the service and it's pretty humid in your neck of the woods.









Of course it's not as humid as the Mississippi delta.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


Does anybody want my ***beat up*** H50?

If you want it you pay the shipping charges & you can have it
I'll include the original Corsair 120mm Fan, original box & accessories(intel/amd)... sorry I lost 1 fan skrew lol

It still works but for me I say its not cooling how it used to, my 965 at stock its hitting 55c on max load & I used to have it before at 4.21Ghz and it had lower max load temps 52c - 54c. I hope for someone else this cools better for them.

Sorry guys I simply give up on my H50... I already ordered 2 CPU air coolers: Noctua NH-D14 & Thermaltake Frio CLP0564, going to test them... who ever fails I'll sell it.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Have you stopped to consider that you Humidity levels may play a part in your cooling issues? I spent time in that part of the world when I was in the service and it's pretty humid in your neck of the woods.









Of course it's not as humid as the Mississippi delta.









~Ceadder










Its humid but more rather avg. dry & hot always









And yeah you do have a good point... the humid in the states gets actually more worse than here.. you guys get the "suffocate type" of humid, over here its just plain dry.


----------



## sequencius

t77snapshot said:


> Hi, I just my 2nd H50 for my secondary rig (100% cruncher/folder), I tried to be a little more creative by mounting it to the top rather then the back of the case.
> 
> ----------------------
> 
> So I go to my local hardware store and they don't have any 6/32" screws longer the 2 inchs, so I got long super long threaded stick and cut the size I needed for this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about using myH50 like this.. except only with ONE fan on the top of the case and NO fan on the inside on the radiator.. do you think this will be okay?


----------



## Ceadderman

Should be so long as you filter the fan. This is assuming of course you are making it intake.









~Ceadder











sequencius said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *t77snapshot*
> 
> 
> Hi, I just my 2nd H50 for my secondary rig (100% cruncher/folder), I tried to be a little more creative by mounting it to the top rather then the back of the case.
> 
> ----------------------
> 
> So I go to my local hardware store and they don't have any 6/32" screws longer the 2 inchs, so I got long super long threaded stick and cut the size I needed for this project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about using myH50 like this.. except only with ONE fan on the top of the case and NO fan on the inside on the radiator.. do you think this will be okay?


----------



## popncali

my pump is running at 1300 rpm, is that normal? my pump is plug into the nb fan header


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

I believe it's supposed to run at 1400rpm, and may fluctuate a little.

Go in to your BIOS and see which fan headers you have control over, max them out if you're able, and turn off any smart fan options.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *popncali*


my pump is running at 1300 rpm, is that normal? my pump is plug into the nb fan header


Depending on the H50 version... it should be at 1400RPM & the other one in some boards it will go up to 1700 - 1800rpm. So yours is not fully running at its max.

Make sure in your bios you have it set to 100% or try a different connector on your board or plug it directly to your PSU(only issue you won't be able to monitor it, unless you have a 3rd party fan controller).


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Not much airflow for a push/pull in a Cosmos is there?









Don't get me wrong the Pure Black Edition was my first case choice but this 932 was just nicer on the budget. If I could have found one for less than $200, I would have gotten it instead.









But I do like the High Air Flow of the 932. It allows me to exhaust my H50 at the ceiling.

Been running for a bit over 6 hours now and am dead on at 35c average temp. Checked the thermostat and it kicks the heat over at 75F So I'm running pretty close to my ambient.

The more I run the more I like this Cooler.









~Ceadder










I figured with 2 top exhaust fans and one bottom fan to pull in cool air it would be a decent amount of airflow in this case. So I thought why not setup push/pull and see what happens and I had no gains









Any recommendations on fan replacements over stock for this case? I don't really care about noise, well as long as it doesn't sound like a server I'll be fine just wanna cool everything as much as possible.

I paid about $140 for my Cosmos close to two years ago and it seemed like a pretty solid case then.

Also I don't see the pump RPM's in Everest or HW monitor I only see the "CPU" fan and my NB fan.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well if you're running the stock dampener material, little fear of noise I imagine. lol

I'm running these...Yate Loon CLEAR 120mm High Speed Silent Case Fan with Red LED

If you don't like LEDs' or if you don't have a need for LED fans you can get them in simple Black. Rated at 88cfm, 2200 RPM, and have a dB level of 40. If you want another color LED they have blue and green in stock. I'm also using the same style in a 140 which replaced my stock Exhaust, its specs are 140cfm, 2000 RPM and 45 dB. All 4 of my fans are 25mm thick so they'll fit wherever you have a stock fan.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
I figured with 2 top exhaust fans and one bottom fan to pull in cool air it would be a decent amount of airflow in this case. So I thought why not setup push/pull and see what happens and I had no gains









Any recommendations on fan replacements over stock for this case? I don't really care about noise, well as long as it doesn't sound like a server I'll be fine just wanna cool everything as much as possible.

I paid about $140 for my Cosmos close to two years ago and it seemed like a pretty solid case then.

Also I don't see the pump RPM's in Everest or HW monitor I only see the "CPU" fan and my NB fan.


----------



## Ceadderman

Need a link to your site Wolf...

If you have a photobucket account you can link them to most forums just like opening a file on your system and looking at the particular pic you're referencing.

Spectacular that this is your 1st build. Never too young to try it.[IMG alt=""]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/wink.gif Age is relative.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *wolfmancha*


going for quiet & H50 was the key to that...







push/pull with shrouds...more pics at my site

feedback appreciated

don't know where the pics went???? maybe someone can inform me on that..


----------



## Quorwyf

Is there a way to use the h50 in 5.25 bays w/o modding something?


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Well if you're running the stock dampener material, little fear of noise I imagine. lol

I'm running these...Yate Loon CLEAR 120mm High Speed Silent Case Fan with Red LED

If you don't like LEDs' or if you don't have a need for LED fans you can get them in simple Black. Rated at 88cfm, 2200 RPM, and have a dB level of 40. If you want another color LED they have blue and green in stock. I'm also using the same style in a 140 which replaced my stock Exhaust, its specs are 140cfm, 2000 RPM and 45 dB. All 4 of my fans are 25mm thick so they'll fit wherever you have a stock fan.









~Ceadder










These?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27361

What are those options at the bottom?

Quote:



Cable: 
Sleeve Color: 
Heatshrink Color:


You're just using that as an exhaust fan or replaced all your fans with it?


----------



## Ceadderman

I have 3 Exhausts total. 140 in the stock location of my HAF. Then Stock RED LED 230mm in the stock location at the top. Then I have the puller fan in place at the moment set to exhaust. w/o the Right side door on(which includes another 230) I'm getting average temps of 35c, ambient temp right now is... 70F(I apologize for lack of conversion folks) so I think I'm running at ambients right now.








YouTube- My HAF 932...

Anyway the top scroll feature is set up so you can either keep the fan sleeved or you can save some dough by rolling it back to stock, saving $3 for the service. If you plan to sleeve one style of sleeving then I wouldn't even get them sleeved. The type of sleeving I'm going to get is pretty close to cloth weave. It's not cloth but one of the OCN members here sells it. Now that my Dremel is on hold(







) I'm going to sleeve my gear.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


These?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27361

What are those options at the bottom?

You're just using that as an exhaust fan or replaced all your fans with it?


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Quorwyf*


Is there a way to use the h50 in 5.25 bays w/o modding something?


Simple just use cable ties (to hang & tight it on the 5.25 bay area) & you are good to go


----------



## AdvanSuper

Ok a few more things... I think I am going to order 2 140mm fans since I only have 2 140mm slots. I'm gonna run the 120mm Yate fans on the rad in push/pull and swap a higher cfm fan on the bottom. Now should I invest in a fan controller for these? Is that a decent setup for the Cosmos?

My H50 is currently mounted to my rear fan or should I mount it up top? I'm open to suggestions and whichever is a better option or setup.


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Don't the CoolerMaster R4 fans push more air at a lower noise level compared to the Yate and many others?


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny.dot.exe*


Don't the CoolerMaster R4 fans push more air at a lower noise level compared to the Yate and many others?


These?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103063

As per the reviews they only push about 70CFM and are way noisier than 19db on full load.


----------



## cutty1998

I am looking forward to the install tonight!! I guess I shouldn't expect any miracles ,but it seems pretty cool. Before I install this ,is there any pitfalls I can expect ,clipping this on LGA1156 ??? I am going to make sure I apply the thermal paste evenly, as I seem to remember just gooping it on my CPU for my Coolermaster!!


----------



## MeatloafOverdose

Yate high speeds dont have a annoying clicking sound when they are undervolted with a fan controller do they?

Plan to get 2 140's and 3 120's for my stormscout /h50 push pull


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cutty1998*


I am looking forward to the install tonight!! I guess I shouldn't expect any miracles ,but it seems pretty cool. Before I install this ,is there any pitfalls I can expect ,clipping this on LGA1156 ??? I am going to make sure I apply the thermal paste evenly, as I seem to remember just gooping it on my CPU for my Coolermaster!!


IIRC the thermal compound on the heatsink already is quality stuff.


----------



## MeatloafOverdose

Correct it is, its pre applied, so leave it on there!


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


These?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103063

As per the reviews they only push about 70CFM and are way noisier than 19db on full load.


I've seen those reviews, but I can safely assume not a single person ran an accurate form of measurement on CFM or Db, they're just guessing and complaining.

I've purchased well over 30 of these fans, and my builds average 6-7 installed and all running @ max...with everything off in my room, I can barely hear my PC running and it's only 3-4 feet away from me. I can hear my H50 pushing liquid inside the case over those fans. They are no doubt the quietest fans I have ever used.

One issue people will run in to without realizing it...what are the fans pushing/pulling air through? Is there a vent? Or metal mesh? They don't take these things that cause airflow noise in to consideration, and are quick to blame the fans. The window on a Storm Scout increases the noise level of the side-panel fans quite a bit, which is why I made a custom side-panel window with 4.5" holes. Now the only thing the airflow passes through is my FilterRight filters.


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MeatloafOverdose*


Correct it is, its pre applied, so leave it on there!


Asetek puts Shin Etsu thermal compound on the H50, so yes...leave it on and only replace it if you ever remove the unit. It's good stuff, just wish I would have know this when I installed my H50.


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cutty1998* 
I am looking forward to the install tonight!! I guess I shouldn't expect any miracles ,but it seems pretty cool. Before I install this ,is there any pitfalls I can expect ,clipping this on LGA1156 ??? I am going to make sure I apply the thermal paste evenly, as I seem to remember just gooping it on my CPU for my Coolermaster!!

When the time comes to actually put the pump in to the ring and turn/lock it...be sure the screws holding that ring down are only turned 1/4" or barely enough to catch. This is so the pump doesn't make contact with the CPU while you turn it, which will smear the thermal compound and likely cause hot spots after you're done and running.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *johnny.dot.exe* 
I've seen those reviews, but I can safely assume not a single person ran an accurate form of measurement on CFM or Db, they're just guessing and complaining.

I've purchased well over 30 of these fans, and my builds average 6-7 installed and all running @ max...with everything off in my room, I can barely hear my PC running and it's only 3-4 feet away from me. I can hear my H50 pushing liquid inside the case over those fans. They are no doubt the quietest fans I have ever used. For johnny.dot.exe the fan has nothing that the fan is pulling or pushing through it is a completely open space cut out just for a 120mm fan and has no filters or

One issue people will run in to without realizing it...what are the fans pushing/pulling air through? Is there a vent? Or metal mesh? They don't take these things that cause airflow noise in to consideration, and are quick to blame the fans. The window on a Storm Scout increases the noise level of the side-panel fans quite a bit, which is why I made a custom side-panel window with 4.5" holes. Now the only thing the airflow passes through is my FilterRight filters.

The only problem I have found with R4's is reliability/longevity a lot of problems even right from the factory with odd noises clicking and other annoying sounds and then even if you get some good ones; after some use they develop the same noises and then either get too annoyingly loud or crap out soon. That is actually the problem with most "sleeved" fans rather than using ball bearings. I have one CM R4 fan left out of 28 I ordered from about 3 years ago it is only still going because it was undervolted/amped for a HTPC so it would make close to no noise when it is turned up to full 2k rpm it is louder than my engine in my V8 mustang. For johnny.dot.exe there is nothing the fan has to push/pull through there is a cutout for the 120mm fan and that's it open space so it isn't because of vents or metal mesh or anything.


----------



## Archer S

well i tried mounting my rad every way there is. it just doesn't fit any way except with the barbs up in the back of the antec 902. not up side down, sideways, or the other way sideways. If anyone has a pic of the radiator mounted in the back of an antec 902 not right side up please do share. it will help a lot


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Archer S*


well i tried mounting my rad every way there is. it just doesn't fit any way except with the barbs up in the back of the antec 902. not up side down, sideways, or the other way sideways. If anyone has a pic of the radiator mounted in the back of an antec 902 not right side up please do share. it will help a lot


It makes no difference. There is very little air in the H50 closed loop and it will find a place to sit away from the flow.


----------



## sorry2

Perhaps this is something for you all....or not









I am new here therefore I don't now of someone has already tried this .
Assembled on my HD5770, it is appropriate exactly and works also still.




























38C full load with MSI kombustor @ core 960/mem 1340, room temperatures 24C


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sorry2* 
Perhaps this is something for you all....or not









I am new here therefore I don't now of someone has already tried this .
Assembled on my HD5770, it is appropriate exactly and works also still.



























38C full load with MSI kombustor @ core 960/mem 1340, room temperatures 24C


hehehe that is funny looking & cool.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope they are rated at the same specs pretty much. And since he's running the Cosmos it's pretty much down to the price point. Also I have to say that for the dollar for dollar spec, Yate Loons are superior in quality to the Cooler Master units. But that's just me.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *johnny.dot.exe* 
Don't the CoolerMaster R4 fans push more air at a lower noise level compared to the Yate and many others?


----------



## Royraiden

Hey guys im getting an h50 in few weeks along with all the components for my next rig.Im considering buying 2 ultra kaze 3000 for a push/pull setup and I wanted to know if anyone here uses this configuration.For all the other members, is it worth it to add the second fan?


----------



## Ceadderman

The TIM supplied on the H50 is as thick as the TIM on the supplied stock CPU coolers. Taking this into account it might be wiser to replace the TIM.

Is it a waste? Certainly.

But if you're after cooler temps, then you'll change the TIM. Even if you use the same stuff.

I used Shin-Etsu X23 paste after cleaning and prepping both surfaces(in my case I lapped them) prior to application. Only used a half to full grain of rice in the middle of my CPU.

Stock TIM is Shin-Etsu G751 it's rated as the best available at the moment. You can get it from performance-pcs.com using the search function. If you look in my sig there is an 80 TIM comparison. So if you happen to have some TIM layin around and you're not sure about where it ranks and what it's cure time and average Temp score is, by all means check it out.









I don't see what is so special about running stock TIM anyway. We all know it's thicker than what we would use or recommend to anyone, but some people insist this is the way to go. I don't mean to make it sound like nobody knows what they are talking about in this regard. I just think that it's better to replace it. I replaced the TIM on my Cooler and my MoBo with x23. The 5770 is next when I get my replacement MoBo.









@sorry2... Dude how did you mount that to your 5770? I'd be interested in seeing how it was done as well. Nothing like pictures detailing a difficult mounting.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *MeatloafOverdose* 
Correct it is, its pre applied, so leave it on there!


----------



## AdvanSuper

I just actually applied AS5 and dropped 1-2c over the stock stuff.

So going with the two 140mm and the three 120mm is a good idea?


----------



## pieisgood2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
These?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103063

As per the reviews they only push about 70CFM and are way noisier than 19db on full load.

yea but the standard 120mm yate loons push what? 88cfm with over 40db?
that is why i opted for my ultra kaze fans, they push 135cfm at 45db

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Royraiden* 
Hey guys im getting an h50 in few weeks along with all the components for my next rig.Im considering buying 2 ultra kaze 3000 for a push/pull setup and I wanted to know if anyone here uses this configuration.For all the other members, is it worth it to add the second fan?

yea i use the ultra kaze's, they work great and the second fan really does make a difference.


----------



## trivium nate

hows that thing working on the gpu? how do you mount it?


----------



## sorry2

@ Ceadderman

Difficult mounting....
Four cover screws dismantle, four something longer assemble.


----------



## Ceadderman

@sorry... ever had that MoBo in upright with the modified GPU cooler mounted to the GPU? If so how does it fare? Pretty sure one would have to support the end of the card to support the new Cooler device.









Oh yeah, you'll definitely notice the difference over the stock fans.









I'm running 3 120s' cause I had a spot at the bottom I could use to off set the exhaust flow and keep the system from fighting itself. You don't have to go with 3 if you don't need to. That's dependent on your budget as much as is for personal tastes.









@pieIG... Ultra Kaze doesn't come in LED flavors. Which is what determined my attachment to my Yate Loon kit.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
I just actually applied AS5 and dropped 1-2c over the stock stuff.

So going with the two 140mm and the three 120mm is a good idea?


----------



## AdvanSuper

I changed things up... I got 2 140mm fans and 1 Ultra Kaze for the lower intake. I have 2 Sunon 90cfm 120mm fans that I can use for push/pull. So it'll be 2 140mm exhaust and 1 120mm intake along with 2 120mm for push/pull on the H50.


----------



## pieisgood2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


@sorry... ever had that MoBo in upright with the modified GPU cooler mounted to the GPU? If so how does it fare? Pretty sure one would have to support the end of the card to support the new Cooler device.









Oh yeah, you'll definitely notice the difference over the stock fans.









I'm running 3 120s' cause I had a spot at the bottom I could use to off set the exhaust flow and keep the system from fighting itself. You don't have to go with 3 if you don't need to. That's dependent on your budget as much as is for personal tastes.









@pieIG... Ultra Kaze doesn't come in LED flavors. Which is what determined my attachment to my Yate Loon kit.









~Ceadder










yea if people are looking for leds then go with the yates, i don't think scythe makes any fans with leds but they do make great fans nonetheless. my case can't really show off leds without removing the side panel or moding my case.


----------



## Strike Eagle 007

Hey I recently got an H50 and I am way impressed with it right now.

I currently have Scythe Slipstream fans in push pull.

Only thing I am worried about is my pump is at 1300rpm and I tried my hardest to find a way to make it to run max in my bios is it alright if I take a Molex and 3 pin and hook it up that way.

It hasnt broken maybe 60c under full load at 4.0GHz


----------



## pieisgood2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Strike Eagle 007*


Hey I recently got an H50 and I am way impressed with it right now.

I currently have Scythe Slipstream fans in push pull.

Only thing I am worried about is my pump is at 1300rpm and I tried my hardest to find a way to make it to run max in my bios is it alright if I take a Molex and 3 pin and hook it up that way.

It hasnt broken maybe 60c under full load at 4.0GHz


yea using an adapter and hooking it up to your power supply will make it run at full speed.


----------



## Ceadderman

Or...

You can do what I did and set your MoBo to "Ignore" the connection via the BIOS. By doing this it sets it to max and you don't have to adapt it to your PSU.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Strike Eagle 007*


Hey I recently got an H50 and I am way impressed with it right now.

I currently have Scythe Slipstream fans in push pull.

Only thing I am worried about is my pump is at 1300rpm and I tried my hardest to find a way to make it to run max in my bios is it alright if I take a Molex and 3 pin and hook it up that way.

It hasnt broken maybe 60c under full load at 4.0GHz


----------



## cutty1998

Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny.dot.exe*


When the time comes to actually put the pump in to the ring and turn/lock it...be sure the screws holding that ring down are only turned 1/4" or barely enough to catch. This is so the pump doesn't make contact with the CPU while you turn it, which will smear the thermal compound and likely cause hot spots after you're done and running.


Thanx ,that is extremely helpful!! Now I am paranoid though!! I will be super cautious and take my time.Thank you guys !


----------



## Ceadderman

Don't sweat that. There is no possible way(with the provided double sided tape, that you're going to do this without "smearing the TIM". My tape was too thick. The only way I could get it to mount was to undo a couple of the retaining screws and try to lift up the ring to snap the Pump into place. My pump was all over the map. I'm running consistent 35c idle temps. Just don't use too much and you should be fine.

Which is another argument for removing the stock TIM. If I was using stock TIM it would have been all over my socket and hardly any on my CPU.

Since I have to RMA my MoBo this week I'll get some shots of how my TIM fared in this mounting process. It won't be fresh but you should get a rough idea how things went.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *cutty1998* 
Thanx ,that is extremely helpful!! Now I am paranoid though!! I will be super cautious and take my time.Thank you guys !


----------



## metal_gunjee

I'm wondering, will this be a worthy upgrade from the Mugen 2? What kind of temp differences should I be looking at? I hit about 58c load now @ 1.56v.

I ran across this thread and thought, "who better to ask?"


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Was just reading another thread on this forum, and some guy that's been here for a while was scolding a new member for recommending the H50. Said H50 owners on here get laughed at and their posts are ignored.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


Originally Posted by *johnny.dot.exe* 
Was just reading another thread on this forum, and some guy that's been here for a while was scolding a new member for recommending the H50. Said H50 owners on here get laughed at and their posts are ignored.









I'd say over 10,000 posts would tend to disagree with him.


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demented*


I'd say over 10,000 posts would tend to disagree with him.


Yeah, I couldn't help but give him a piece of my mind when I seen his several posts basically bashing H50 owners.


----------



## Ceadderman

Only full on h2o junkies would ignore this group.









Speaking of which I'm going h2o but I needed to have a solid cooler in the meantime which was why I chose it. My 35c temps definitely give it credibility.










~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny.dot.exe*


Was just reading another thread on this forum, and some guy that's been here for a while was scolding a new member for recommending the H50. Said H50 owners on here get laughed at and their posts are ignored.


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Only full on h2o junkies would ignore this group.









Speaking of which I'm going h2o but I needed to have a solid cooler in the meantime which was why I chose it. My 35c temps definitely give it credibility.









~Ceadder










I'm sitting at 4.0GHz @ 1.45v, with an idle temp of 33c. It's not fully stable due to one or more RAM settings that need to be fine tuned, but that's a pretty good temp from a not-a-watercooler.


----------



## Demented

I think most H50 owners that are happy with the cooler will eventually go full water-cooling setup. I know I plan to in the future.


----------



## pieisgood2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cutty1998*


Thanx ,that is extremely helpful!! Now I am paranoid though!! I will be super cautious and take my time.Thank you guys !


lol the first time i tried to install my h50 i put the pushpin things in the wrong way, they are supposed to face the opposite direction for socket 775 as opposed to 1156 and 1366. i actually started screwing it in and everything and i was wondering why it was so tight. i booted up my pc and was idling at 66c lol. i was like







. then i looked at the directions again and realized what i did.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny.dot.exe*


I'm sitting at 4.0GHz @ 1.45v, with an idle temp of 33c. It's not fully stable due to one or more RAM settings that need to be fine tuned, but that's a pretty good temp from a not-a-watercooler.










tell me what setting's you are using?

I just simply used 200 x 21 (4.21Ghz) - 1.475v or 1.48

Nothing else is needed, for stability lower your Ram Mhz or raise a bit more the cpu voltage. My idle was 29 - 32c in that time with the H50 + Panaflo push/pull it was loud as heck but it cooled it.

If you are clocking NB / SB etc... then in that case I have no clue... since we are black editions we only need cpu multiplier & voltage to run higher clocks & the obvious a really good cpu cooler.

The cpu-z in my sig is a newer test i did & it was at a way higher voltage so ignore it, This is my old cpu-z: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1017127


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny.dot.exe*


Was just reading another thread on this forum, and some guy that's been here for a while was scolding a new member for recommending the H50. Said H50 owners on here get laughed at and their posts are ignored.










lol... I guess we aren't real water coolers dawg.


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


tell me what setting's you are using?

I just simply used 200 x 21 (4.21Ghz) - 1.475v or 1.48

Nothing else is needed, for stability lower your Ram Mhz or raise a bit more the cpu voltage. My idle was 29 - 32c in that time with the H50 + Panaflo push/pull it was loud as heck but it cooled it.

If you are clocking NB / SB etc... then in that case I have no clue... since we are black editions we only need cpu multiplier & voltage to run higher clocks & the obvious a really good cpu cooler.


Here's my thread about it...

http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...msi-890fx.html


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 









~Ceadder









ur ram on Crosshair IV is on the wrong spot.
it should be red, red or black, black


----------



## Ceadderman

And yet it's working...

No offense, but I have 8Gb of Doms You honestly think I'ma run two chips of the matched quad? And run them in two different pathways if I don't have a problem with my board? That would be
















It's honestly running 4 of the 8Gb and showing up as a full 4. All I know is at the very least my 3rd slot is toast. Won't even get past the DRAM indicator on my MoBo. Which is slightly depressing as it is. I can't even boot up if I put a chip in the 1st slot skip 2nd and put in 3rd since 3rd is toast.









But hey I'm not going to complain. I'll make the best of a bad situation, until I can send my MoBo in on Tuesday. That means I get to wait for my new Board for at least a week. At least I still have this loaner Board handy. And better than onboard GPU.









Speaking of which don't do the 10.6 update. I did and my perfectly acceptable Metal of Honor Airborne started having a serious case of the Yips.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


ur ram on Crosshair IV is on the wrong spot.
it should be red, red or black, black


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


And yet it's working...

No offense, but I have 8Gb of Doms You honestly think I'ma run two chips of the matched quad? And run them in two different pathways if I don't have a problem with my board? That would be
















It's honestly running 4 of the 8Gb and showing up as a full 4. All I know is at the very least my 3rd slot is toast. Won't even get past the DRAM indicator on my MoBo. Which is slightly depressing as it is. I can't even boot up if I put a chip in the 1st slot skip 2nd and put in 3rd since 3rd is toast.









But hey I'm not going to complain. I'll make the best of a bad situation, until I can send my MoBo in on Tuesday. That means I get to wait for my new Board for at least a week. At least I still have this loaner Board handy. And better than onboard GPU.









Speaking of which don't do the 10.6 update. I did and my perfectly acceptable Metal of Honor Airborne started having a serious case of the Yips.









~Ceadder










I wished I knew how to make motherboards to fix your slot issue lol ... so how long is the RMA gonna take?

You know I actually had the 10.6 for a bit... saw some games improvements, others went to ShZT... so then decided to drop back to 10.4 things were more snappier for me there plus the profile custom editing thing works better on 10.4 than on 10.5 /10.6 - I have to change my idle to clock: 200 / memory: 400 to have it completely stable(or I get screen fragments/freeze)... but afterwards Frames on all my games are very happy.... now that is my case on my 5770... so what CCC version are you on now?


----------



## Ceadderman

I went back to 10.5 since MoH worked better there.

And RMA shouldn't take more than 10 days. We'll see though as some have had their RMAs' show up in less time. All depends on UPS.

*Temp update*

I hadn't had a solid opportunity to see what my Temps under load conditions were as I hadn't had any major downloads to do. Well today I had to download a printer driver from HP. Those take forever. It's still going in fact. I'm watching a YouTube interview with Gordon Moore over Moore's law have 12 Safari Windows open running iTunes(not playing though) and 10 utillities(i.e. system tools) and have a load temp between 38c and 40c. All on 4 Gigs of RAM. Not bad in the least. I'd say my lapping was a success. Though I can smell the drying TIM. 8 hour cure times only work if the system isn't in sleep mode. lol









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


I wished I knew how to make motherboards to fix your slot issue lol ... so how long is the RMA gonna take?

You know I actually had the 10.6 for a bit... saw some games improvements, others went to ShZT... so then decided to drop back to 10.4 things were more snappier for me there plus the profile custom editing thing works better on 10.4 than on 10.5 /10.6 - I have to change my idle to clock: 200 / memory: 400 to have it completely stable(or I get screen fragments/freeze)... but afterwards Frames on all my games are very happy.... now that is my case on my 5770... so what CCC version are you on now?


----------



## demonsblood

quick question guys!

i know that the gentle typhoon ap15 is a good fan for h50, but my local store only carries the ap14 at the moment. Are they still worth it to buy vs the stock fan + a case fan that came with my case?

also, I can't wait to get the h50 and join the club


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *demonsblood* 
quick question guys!

i know that the gentle typhoon ap15 is a good fan for h50, but my local store only carries the ap14 at the moment. Are they still worth it to buy vs the stock fan + a case fan that came with my case?

also, I can't wait to get the h50 and join the club









yes. mismatched fans arent a great idea, so it would definitely be better to get two 14's


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
I went back to 10.5 since MoH worked better there.

And RMA shouldn't take more than 10 days. We'll see though as some have had their RMAs' show up in less time. All depends on UPS.

*Temp update*

I hadn't had a solid opportunity to see what my Temps under load conditions were as I hadn't had any major downloads to do. Well today I had to download a printer driver from HP. Those take forever. It's still going in fact. I'm watching a YouTube interview with Gordon Moore over Moore's law have 12 Safari Windows open running iTunes(not playing though) and 10 utillities(i.e. system tools) and have a load temp between 38c and 40c. All on 4 Gigs of RAM. Not bad in the least. I'd say my lapping was a success. Though I can smell the drying TIM. 8 hour cure times only work if the system isn't in sleep mode. lol









~Ceadder










maybe I'm confused or not... aren't you using Shin-Etsu? If so, there is no curing time on it... its an instant drop.

Quote:

I used Shin-Etsu X23 paste
I have Shin-Etsu G751 but its already almost finished need to order more.


----------



## Ceadderman

Shin-Etsu is a zero _DAY_ cure. Still takes time to cure though.









8 hours or less.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


maybe I'm confused or not... aren't you using Shin-Etsu? If so, there is no curing time on it... its an instant drop.

I have Shin-Etsu G751 but its already almost finished need to order more.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


maybe I'm confused or not... aren't you using Shin-Etsu? If so, there is no curing time on it... its an instant drop.

I have Shin-Etsu G751 but its already almost finished need to order more.


Aye! I used Shin-etsu G751 when I reseated and setup my front intake push/pull drivebay mod. And my temps dropped even lower after a day.

Idle temps at the moment are 34, 28, 30, 29

Best they have ever been, just love this HAF 932 and H50 more each day


----------



## genji

They need to make an H50 for video cards







and call it...."The H60" pretty original eh


----------



## Celeras

So do most of you actually use the default TIM that comes installed, and is it quality? I know the OP says it's better than Arctic Silver, I just find that surprising 

Also, when I purchase one of these I was thinking about going with a Gentle Typhoon fan replacement. What speed would you recommend(feel free to link), and do you think the stock fan would be sufficient for the pull? Trying to penny pinch by only purchasing one, I would think the push fan makes the most difference.


----------



## RonB94GT

I'm going to order 2 of these http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27970. I want to use 1 of my old fans as a shroud and 1 put in the bottom of my HAF922. Between the H50 fan and the CM fan what 1 is the better one? Only info I can dig up on the CM fan is 1200 rpm and 17 dBA.


----------



## xan17

Im in....

Dont have pics of the rig, Need to get a camera lol


----------



## enri95

Hi, I bought H50 and I was wondering if I should use the pre-applied thermal paste (i heard it's shin etsu or something like that) or the Artic Silver 5 which i have.









or which is better?


----------



## Ceadderman

I can only answer that 1st part for myself. Nope I didn't use the default TIM. That's because I lapped my H50 though to match my lapped 955 BE C3.

It is better in that it is the same stuff that edges out AS5. Which is Shin-Etsu G751. However... if you leave it in stock form AS5 is better. The reasons should be clear but I'll explain... the stock TIM is pretty thick and covers the entire working surface of the cooler. When you apply TIM yourself you'll probably only apply a half a grain of rice allowing the TIM to spread more evenly and thinner. Therefore AS5 would be better than stock.

Start back @ OP for this information. There is a Google.doc list that has the CFM rating of every fan that has been mated to the H50 Rad. In my case I use Red LED Yate Loon High Speed Silents' that have a cfm rating of 88cfm and a 48.5 dB level. They can be pretty loud but I can live with a louder set of fans over a hot system.









If you're penny pinching though I would get 2 of the Yate Loons' from performance-pcs.com. $4 each when you leave the sleeving off. So for the price of ONE fan you get two once you throw shipping in. You can get them in stock black, Red, Green and Blue flavors. I don't even have Cathode tubes in my system cause these things are pretty bright.









~Ceadder

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Celeras* 
So do most of you actually use the default TIM that comes installed, and is it quality? I know the OP says it's better than Arctic Silver, I just find that surprising 

Also, when I purchase one of these I was thinking about going with a Gentle Typhoon fan replacement. What speed would you recommend(feel free to link), and do you think the stock fan would be sufficient for the pull? Trying to penny pinch by only purchasing one, I would think the push fan makes the most difference.

P.S. You new guys should go to OP to add yourselves to the list. It's a Google.doc list.


----------



## idk12

too much for me to read, can someone tell me which mod is the best?


----------



## sesnut

would anyone recommend this over an original TRUE? my temperatures are kinda borked on my i7 860. I have it running at 4.2 @ 1.33v and it easily hits 90c on regular loads and tjunction when benching, idles at 50c.
the fan im using is a scythe 2000 rpm @ 110 cfm :<


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sesnut*


would anyone recommend this over an original TRUE? my temperatures are kinda borked on my i7 860. I have it running at 4.2 @ 1.33v and it easily hits 90c on regular loads and tjunction when benching, idles at 50c.
the fan im using is a scythe 2000 rpm @ 110 cfm :<


Seems to me on reviews a True is better(ofcourse I haven't seen a comparison with the original True).... but 1 question are you using push/pull (2 fans) on your true? Also how is the airflow in your case?

forgot to add... if you have dust inside your case... clean it - And I would suggest to do a re-seat and apply some new Thermal paste on it.


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *idk12*


too much for me to read, can someone tell me which mod is the best?


Depends on personal preference. Read the thread, that's why it is here.


----------



## sesnut

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


Seems to me on reviews a True is better(ofcourse I haven't seen a comparison with the original True).... but 1 question are you using push/pull (2 fans) on your true? Also how is the airflow in your case?

forgot to add... if you have dust inside your case... clean it - And I would suggest to do a re-seat and apply some new Thermal paste on it.


i tried a push pull, i didnt see any difference
its a new build, so no dust problems
airflow is good, its a thermaltake armor
i reseated it a couple of times, no change


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sesnut*


i tried a push pull, i didnt see any difference
its a new build, so no dust problems
airflow is good, its a thermaltake armor
i reseated it a couple of times, no change










There is something wrong if you're idling at 50c and hitting 90c under load. Either the heatsink is flawed and not seating properly, or the thermal compound is either crap or not applied properly, or you don't have optimal airflow pathes in that case. Either way, something isn't right there. Is 1.33v a lot compared to the oem voltage of that CPU? If you're running an overclock, maybe you should downclock it...

Edit : In your User CP, click add/edit your system. This way you can have all your specs in your sig, which helps us help you.


----------



## Ceadderman

Would be more helpful if your you had your rig added in your User CP system.

Personally, I think this H50 is better than most AC heatsink setups. Not all but most.

I can't specifically state what you'd get for temps since I'm running AMD and you're Intel. But my temps are running 34c minimum at the moment. I got it up to 42c last night under load. And that's both surfaces being lapped and running a single fan in exhaust. I doubt that I would have much better temps if I were to run intake. But I do plan to add a gutted fan as a shroud and a Pusher fan on the bottom of it. So I think I'll probably see 29c-31c as a result of my work. Not bad for a 1st time lappdog.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *sesnut*


i tried a push pull, i didnt see any difference
its a new build, so no dust problems
airflow is good, its a thermaltake armor
i reseated it a couple of times, no change


----------



## sesnut

Quote:


Originally Posted by *johnny.dot.exe* 
There is something wrong if you're idling at 50c and hitting 90c under load. Either the heatsink is flawed and not seating properly, or the thermal compound is either crap or not applied properly, or you don't have optimal airflow pathes in that case. Either way, something isn't right there. Is 1.33v a lot compared to the oem voltage of that CPU? If you're running an overclock, maybe you should downclock it...

Edit : In your User CP, click add/edit your system. This way you can have all your specs in your sig, which helps us help you.

the VID i got from the bios when i set it to auto was 1.3


----------



## Demented

On my last days off I installed a fan controller, as well as 2 UK 3000's and shrouds. However, when i went to put my side panel back on, it was a little rough going with my Antec 900's side fan pressing against the one UK. O managed to get my side panel off, but I'm not happy with it. I like it to close nice and flush. I know if I remove the one shroud that is on the pull fan, it will fit perfectly again, so is that shroud really necessary?

Also, I have my pump connected to my motherboard, and the highest I have seen it go is 1330RPM. It usually fluctuates between 1320-1330RPM. I don't want to have to connect it directly to my PSU, as this will cause unsightly cables to show more. Does anyone have experience with a particular MB header that will give it the proper RPM's? It's a three pin, and since I have my MB to ignore my CPU_FAN header to avoid the boot up beep, would it be better to connect it there? I also have a PWR_FAN header close that I could connect it to, so would that be better?

I had already tried to ignore the header it's connected to in BIOS, but Everest still reports the RPMs as 1320-1330.

Thanks!


----------



## looser101

Use one of the 3pin to 4pin molex adapters that came with the Scythe fans. Plug the yellow wire to the cpu fan header. That will give guaranteed full power to the pump and allows you to monitor the pump rpm.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Use one of the 3pin to 4pin molex adapters that came with the Scythe fans. Plug the yellow wire to the cpu fan header. That will give guaranteed full power to the pump and allows you to monitor the pump rpm.

I'll try that. Thanks.

EDIT: But doesn't that mean I have to plug it into a 4-pin Molex connector off of my PSU then? I'm trying to avoid that.


----------



## Kylechx

Just want to make sure I did this right. I got the pump in the pwr header. two scythe GT with a splitter into the CPU header. Stock I am running about 34C right now. Seems a little Hot. 100% load w/ prime I get around 55-58. This is all stock.

But for 4.0 GHZ I idle around 41-43 and full load around 70. I am using an 800D case so i figure that I might be restricting a little much since this case has an air cool issue, but wouldn't think of it to matter that much. need to replace the stock 140's, they suck for intakes. Would a shroud after my push GT help?

NOTE: what is weird is prior to overclocking i was getting idles stock around 29-30 and now they are at 34-35. Any ideas?


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Demented* 
I'll try that. Thanks.

EDIT: But doesn't that mean I have to plug it into a 4-pin Molex connector off of my PSU then? I'm trying to avoid that.

Well... yes, but that's the only way to ensure full power. At least try it if only to convince yourself 1300rpm is all your particular pump will do.


----------



## Demented

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Well... yes, but that's the only way to ensure full power. At least try it if only to convince yourself 1300rpm is all your particular pump will do.


True, guess it's worth a shot. Thanks.


----------



## alayoubi

Regarding modding the H50 : res + UV Dye + clear tubes

I need to know the quantity of the UV Dye bottle to add to the stock H50's coolant ?
like this UV Dye bottle:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/70...tl=g30c103s185

and what do u advice for clear tubing with green line surrounding + size + long ? and Barbs & Quantities ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Dude you're overclocked, of course it's going to read hotter.

You're getting 34c @ idle is damn good for an Intel. My lapped 955 BE setup is marking that @ idle as well. 34 is a solid temp and that you're running Prime @ 100% load you should see as significant an increase as you have. I would think something was wrong otherwise.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kylechx* 
Just want to make sure I did this right. I got the pump in the pwr header. two scythe GT with a splitter into the CPU header. Stock I am running about 34C right now. Seems a little Hot. 100% load w/ prime I get around 55-58. This is all stock.

But for 4.0 GHZ I idle around 41-43 and full load around 70. I am using an 800D case so i figure that I might be restricting a little much since this case has an air cool issue, but wouldn't think of it to matter that much. need to replace the stock 140's, they suck for intakes. Would a shroud after my push GT help?

NOTE: what is weird is prior to overclocking i was getting idles stock around 29-30 and now they are at 34-35. Any ideas?


----------



## Kylechx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Dude you're overclocked, of course it's going to read hotter.

You're getting 34c @ idle is damn good for an Intel. My lapped 955 BE setup is marking that @ idle as well. 34 is a solid temp and that you're running Prime @ 100% load you should see as significant an increase as you have. I would think something was wrong otherwise.









~Ceadder










it was 34 stock. it idles at 43 OC. just in case you didn't notice that


----------



## Ceadderman

Ahhh, okay wasn't clear before. Thanks for clearing up that discrepancy.

In any case, I've noticed that the Intels run hotter. 42c seems to be a favored temp it seems. And if you're getting low 50s' OC'd then I think that you're okay.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kylechx* 
it was 34 stock. it idles at 43 OC. just in case you didn't notice that


----------



## JKswe

this is my firts post on these forums so bare with me if the quetions have been answered previously









Im using a H50 cooler inside a Corsair 800D case, my setup below:

1x 120mm CM Excalibur in the front as intake (Scythe Kama Bay)
3x 120mm Noctua in the top as exhaust
1 x 140mm Corsair in the bottom as intake.
2 x 120mm CM Excalibur in push/pull as exhaust in the rear.

Im using a i7 930, 20x205 (4100Mhz) with 1,3875v.

My idle temps are 48c and under LINX heavy load 83c, ambient temp during this is 22c.

The H50 is mounted with the hoses at the TOP.

Now to my questions.

1. Are my temps OK based on my setup?
2. Should i reseat the cooler?
3. Would rotating the radiator so hoses are DOWN help?

Im so close on ordering a full EK WC setup since im not that satisifed with my H50, so any suggestions is appreciated


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JKswe*


this is my firts post on these forums so bare with me if the quetions have been answered previously









Im using a H50 cooler inside a Corsair 800D case, my setup below:

1x 120mm CM Excalibur in the front as intake (Scythe Kama Bay)
3x 120mm Noctua in the top as exhaust
1 x 140mm Corsair in the bottom as intake.
2 x 120mm CM Excalibur in push/pull as exhaust in the rear.

Im using a i7 920, 20x205 (4100Mhz) with 1,3875v.

My idle temps are 48c and under LINX heavy load 83c, ambient temp during this is 22c.

The H50 is mounted with the hoses at the TOP.

Now to my questions.

1. Are my temps OK based on my setup?
2. Should i reseat the cooler?
3. Would rotating the radiator so hoses are DOWN help?

Im so close on ordering a full EK WC setup since im not that satisifed with my H50, so any suggestions is appreciated











Are you using the stock TIM or did you use a 3rd party thermal paste? if so, which one?..... test other fans for push/pull... Try re-seating.... I've read... hoses down helps a bit(or maybe its the other way around *up lol can't remember), read also having the corsair logo of the pump upside down helps too... another idea... try lapping the H50 & the cpu .... if any of these things don't help... then go for full WC then.

Forgot another idea, try placing the H50 somewhere else in your case.... experimenting is the best way to find out where it works better for you.... also go to "User CP" and click "Edit System" add your computer details in there - that would be great for people to help you out much easier, to see what is your entire computer set up


----------



## JKswe

Well, im using the stock tim atm, but if i reseat i will ofc apply fresh one.

So, any more feedback? anything is appreciated.


----------



## Quorwyf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


Simple just use cable ties (to hang & tight it on the 5.25 bay area) & you are good to go


Thanks. Was hoping for something a bit more secure though.


----------



## AdvanSuper

I have the same thing going on.. CPU idles at 48c but never goes over 75c under LinX. I've reseated properly and applied AS5 dropped went down to 46c idle. Rad is mounted to the rear exhaust at the moment and I plan on trying a push/pull with the same fans.


----------



## JKswe

so, do you have the hoses at the top or bottom of the radiator?


----------



## Oo Alias oO

Hey guys, thinking about getting the H50 as it wont take up much room in my case.

However quick question: Does this act as a CPU cooler aswell as the case fan? Or does it take up a fan space and use it as a CPU cooler only?

Thanks!


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Oo Alias oO* 
Hey guys, thinking about getting the H50 as it wont take up much room in my case.

However quick question: Does this act as a CPU cooler aswell as the case fan? Or does it take up a fan space and use it as a CPU cooler only?

Thanks!

can be both can be just cpu cooler, depends on placement.... if its mounted to the backside of a drive bad its just a cpu cooler, otherwise its usually a case fan too


----------



## kpopsaranghae

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JKswe* 
this is my firts post on these forums so bare with me if the quetions have been answered previously









Im using a H50 cooler inside a Corsair 800D case, my setup below:

1x 120mm CM Excalibur in the front as intake (Scythe Kama Bay)
3x 120mm Noctua in the top as exhaust
1 x 140mm Corsair in the bottom as intake.
2 x 120mm CM Excalibur in push/pull as exhaust in the rear.

Im using a i7 930, 20x205 (4100Mhz) with 1,3875v.

My idle temps are 48c and under LINX heavy load 83c, ambient temp during this is 22c.

The H50 is mounted with the hoses at the TOP.

Now to my questions.

1. Are my temps OK based on my setup?
2. Should i reseat the cooler?
3. Would rotating the radiator so hoses are DOWN help?

Im so close on ordering a full EK WC setup since im not that satisifed with my H50, so any suggestions is appreciated









first off, that is a lot of vcore for 4 ghz OC. try using the 19x or 21x multiplier, since odd multipliers usually require less vcore than even multipliers to get stable.

2nd, ur idle temps are pretty high, and ur load temps are fantastic for that voltage. with my h50, i hit 84C @ 1.328 vcore on linx.

Now answering your questions:
1.your idle temps are pretty high, should be around 42-43 at that ambient. but ur load temps look good.
2. i think ur heatsink is reseated correctly or ur temps would go even higher on linx.
3. from other people, i have heard that either way doesnt affect the cooling performance of the h50 so my answer is no.


----------



## sudosub

Hello,

I installed my H50 to a Phenom II x4 965 BE last night. I was following the instructions provided in the box and now fear I may have smudged too much of the included paste (didn't realize you could cause "hot spots"). I only later learned the trick of pulling up on the bracket and then locking it into place after reading portions of this thread.

Should I reseat this device and buy new paste....based on the following information:

Case: HAF 922 (no push/pull as of yet) 1 exhaust on top.

Room temp: 74

CPU OC to 3.9 at 1.45v (205x19)

Idle: 34-36

100% Load (Prime95): 56 degrees (30 mins)-61 degrees (30 mins-2 hours)

It would be really ideal to establish a baseline of other 965 + H50 users with a similar OC to know what their temps are...but,...any help would be appreciated!


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sudosub*


Hello,

I installed my H50 to a Phenom II x4 965 BE last night. I was following the instructions provided in the box and now fear I may have smudged too much of the included paste (didn't realize you could cause "hot spots"). I only later learned the trick of pulling up on the bracket and then locking it into place after reading portions of this thread.

Should I reseat this device and buy new paste....based on the following information:

Case: HAF 922 (no push/pull as of yet) 1 exhaust on top.

Room temp: 74

CPU OC to 3.9 at 1.45v (205x19)

Idle: 34-36

100% Load (Prime95): 56 degrees (30 mins)-61 degrees (30 mins-2 hours)

It would be really ideal to establish a baseline of other 965 + H50 users with a similar OC to know what their temps are...but,...any help would be appreciated!


My temps were about the same as yours when I was at 4.0GHz / 1.450v. You could re-seat the H50 if you really wanted to, but I don't think your temps will drop much, if at all. You're good where you are at.


----------



## sudosub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny.dot.exe*


My temps were about the same as yours when I was at 4.0GHz / 1.450v. You could re-seat the H50 if you really wanted to, but I don't think your temps will drop much, if at all. You're good where you are at.










Thank you for the quick response. I am adding a second fan to the radiator tonight for push/pull. Was your 4.0 @ 1.45 pretty stable? I couldnt seem to get that high.

Also, have you messed around with those RAM timings much? I have the same kit...I can only get 7-8-7-18 @ 1.65 but I have seen plenty of people get 7-7-7-15 @1.65


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sudosub*


Hello,

I installed my H50 to a Phenom II x4 965 BE last night. I was following the instructions provided in the box and now fear I may have smudged too much of the included paste (didn't realize you could cause "hot spots"). I only later learned the trick of pulling up on the bracket and then locking it into place after reading portions of this thread.

Should I reseat this device and buy new paste....based on the following information:

Case: HAF 922 (no push/pull as of yet) 1 exhaust on top.

Room temp: 74

CPU OC to 3.9 at 1.45v (205x19)

Idle: 34-36

100% Load (Prime95): 56 degrees (30 mins)-61 degrees (30 mins-2 hours)

It would be really ideal to establish a baseline of other 965 + H50 users with a similar OC to know what their temps are...but,...any help would be appreciated!


Get a second fan and a pair of shrouds if they will fit and you will see your temp drop. alot of people like the Yate Loons they have good pressure and "can" be quite.... also fairly cheap, but well made.


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sudosub*


Thank you for the quick response. I am adding a second fan to the radiator tonight for push/pull. Was your 4.0 @ 1.45 pretty stable? I couldnt seem to get that high.


I passed Orthos, Intel Burn Test and Prime95 Small FFTs without any issues. When I tried to run Prime95 Blend Test, it kept failing due to what I think was either a memory issue or a NB issue. I haven't tweaked my settings anymore to figure it out, will probably try again later today.

Also, at the top of the forum click "User CP" and on the left panel of the User CP page you will see something like "add system". Click that, fill it out and save it. This will put your system specs in your sig, makes it easier for people to help you on here.

As for my RAM, I went to 1333MHz @ 6-6-6-18 @ 1.50v in an attempt to stabilize that overclock. At this time I still do not know if it was my RAM causing the instability or not, I just assume it was because I can pass Prime95 Small FFTs(stress CPU) but get a rounding error on core 4 with the Blend Test(stress CPU and RAM).

Here's my OC thread...

http://www.overclock.net/amd-general/759049-hitting-4-0ghz-965be-msi-890fx.html


----------



## sudosub

I'll see what adding that second fan for push/pull does to my temps...regardless, are those temps acceptable for my setup?


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sudosub* 
I'll see what adding that second fan for push/pull does to my temps...regardless, are those temps acceptable for my setup?

The 61 seams high... I think max is 62* or 65* (do a google search?)

but on that stressfull of a test it may be ok.


----------



## sudosub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
The 61 seams high... I think max is 62* or 65* (do a google search?)

but on that stressfull of a test it may be ok.


Well what should I shoot for...? 58 tops or so?


----------



## Magus2727

Mr. Charles on here had an issue with a mad H50 the surface was all jacked up, he lapped the H50 and got much better results. you can try that, you can try reseating the H50. it comes with alot of paste, I have not had problems using the stock the highest i have seen, I have been folding for days on end (folding is a program that help with research but uses all cores and a fair bit of memory) and max I have seen is 53.

I got a new cooler when my temps were always around 58*c.

I personaly would want to stay under 55*c, run alot of your programs the way you will run your computer and see what the temp it. your not going to ahve prime in the backround at all times do have that much of a heat source. if it sits at 45*c still after playing your game for 10 hours then I think your fine.


----------



## sudosub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Mr. Charles on here had an issue with a mad H50 the surface was all jacked up, he lapped the H50 and got much better results. you can try that, you can try reseating the H50. it comes with alot of paste, I have not had problems using the stock the highest i have seen, I have been folding for days on end (folding is a program that help with research but uses all cores and a fair bit of memory) and max I have seen is 53.

I got a new cooler when my temps were always around 58*c.

I personaly would want to stay under 55*c, run alot of your programs the way you will run your computer and see what the temp it. your not going to ahve prime in the backround at all times do have that much of a heat source. if it sits at 45*c still after playing your game for 10 hours then I think your fine.


So just to be clear, "lapping" is just reseating it without adding new paste? Sorry I am new to this! Also those temps I provided were all under Blended P95 tests so I think you are right I dont see it running much hotter than 55 while gaming for long periods of time.


----------



## Magus2727

Lapping is a tedious process of slowly sanding down the surface to give it a mirror like finish.

Edit: lapping can be done on CPU's but is not recomended since it voids any waranty and usualy drops the re-sell of the chip.

In mass production the surfface is not always flat or level, this means when you seat the copper base you are not getting the best conatact that can be achived. you will have high spots and low spots, thermal paste can fix some of this, but in some rare instances it is to much and either should be warranty replaced or fixed my smothing the surface.


----------



## sudosub

Oh ok, I don't think I will be up to that... so the H50 has enough paste to reseat it at least once without re applying would you say?


----------



## Magus2727

any time you re-seat a heat shink you will want to completly clean every thing off and re apply about a grain of rice (is what most people say) in the center or do some sort of small x in the middle.


----------



## enri95

Guys, what are your temperatures with this cooler? (include room temperatures pls!)

Thank you.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sudosub*


Oh ok, I don't think I will be up to that... so the H50 has enough paste to reseat it at least once without re applying would you say?


Like said above don't reseat it without cleaning off the old and then reapplying more TIM.

I would not go over 55C ever I have the same processor OC to 4.0 stable and the max I have seen Prime95 is 56C and only for just a second steadied out at 55C anything above 63C has the chance to damage the chip so anything close to that your just asking to shorten the life if your chip.


----------



## ctbear

So I'm debating as to whether I should pick up this cooler ($52 AR/BCB) or a $25 sunbeam core contact...for my i7 920. Yes...of course I'll be overclocking it.

The only thing I'm worried about is this "clicking" / "buzzing" noise that some people are complaining about. I have a fish tank at home that has an air pump which also buzzes..but it's reaching the end of its life now.

I believe eventually all H50s will develop this buzz as the pump wears out. How long before this happens? Is anyone else suffering from this buzz as well here?

Thanks...


----------



## alayoubi

I want to order a clear tuping from this link for Modding H50 :
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ty201id3odul.html

and its written :
Tygon is packaged in 50 foot boxes. Choose the number of feet you'd like in the Quantity Field below.

so Quantity of 1 in this case means 1 Foot ??

And how long tubes will i need Approximatly between rad , res, CPU Pump/block and one GPU block ? i know its depending on my case but what is much enough to do it ?
-------------
another Question plz :
Can i use a distilled water that used in car's battery/radiator ?


----------



## Bodycount

Ok im not finding what i need to know in the air cooling forum. The thing is im trying to get away from the H50 and replace it with a air cooler from frys but im sure someone here wants these.

What would be close to equal performance of the H50 from frys? anything?

I was looking at the Zalman CNPS10X Extreme but cant confirm it will fit on a Classified with 12GB ram









Thanks guys for any input


----------



## MeatloafOverdose

Well my H50 arrived today. Man the shinetsu is thick! I ended up scraping it off, and rolling half of it into a little ball (squishing the air out and rolling it gently again).

So far.. max load is 38c at 3.8ghz 1.4v on m 550BE. Ill start clocking this sucker for 4ghz soon.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JKswe*


so, do you have the hoses at the top or bottom of the radiator?


My hoses are on the bottom.


----------



## digital_steve

Well, i ordered a lapping kit and will give it a go... will be interesting to see if there is any noticable change in temperature
My new 75cfm fans in push/pull made a difference over the 52cfm push/pull fans i had though!


----------



## sendblink23

I feel so bad trying to sell my H50, these days in the weekend testing the AMD stock cooler, noticed temps were way too high as in stock, so decided to test the H50 at a friends computer and that thing is still cooling really good - so conclusion its my darn CPU its overheating buuuu! I'm gonna RMA it now.

Now I feel bad I spent around $165 on 2 cpu coolers - Thermaltake Frio & Noctua NH-D14, pretty certain I won't give any use to them since it seems my H50 was still fine.. I could have saved that money on getting the 6-cores 1090t







Oh well WTE... now I'm gonna order my 2nd XFX 5770 next week.. its time for some Cross Fire soon... ofcourse I won't be able to play with it until I get the RMA return of my cpu(few weeks without any use on my gaming computer buu).... I'll just get the 6-cores later on.

And if anybody is gonna ask me to sell them those air coolers, sorry but I think its better if I keep them as back up(Also they haven't arrived here yet either, so can't sell em yet lol).


----------



## Sig226

Add me. Those are Coolermaster ~70CFM fans around the radiator. The other fan behind the HDD is a thermaltake that said on the packaging that it is 78CFM and 21Db. Total lie. That thing is noisy as hell and is going back soon. the coolermasters are very quiet for the amount of air they move I recommend them.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sig226*


Add me. Those are Coolermaster ~70CFM fans around the radiator. The other fan behind the HDD is a thermaltake that said on the packaging that it is 78CFM and 21Db. Total lie. That thing is noisy as hell and is going back soon. the coolermasters are very quiet for the amount of air they move I recommend them.


Are those R4'S?


----------



## Ceadderman

Hello AMD guy here running a LAPPED 955 BE and my CPU temp is 34c @ idle It jumps 8-10c under load and my ambient temp is between 67 and 70F at the moment. I apologize that I can't give something more specific but my only thermometer at the moment is the thermostat which I bump up til I hear it activate. That gives me a reasonable reading to work with.

Here's my vid about my latest purchase from Lowe's to get my shroud and Pusher fan connected...

Making somethin out of nuthin...  6-32 thread pitch btw...

Also picked up some Gloss Crimson Red Universal Paint for my Grills, Slot Protectors and Thumb Devices at that same Lowe's.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *enri95* 
Guys, what are your temperatures with this cooler? (include room temperatures pls!)

Thank you.


----------



## Ceadderman

Remember, with Lapping...

...SLOW and steady wins the Race. Also Remember that you're only flattening it. Don't worry if not all the Copper is exposed. Basically the center is what you're looking to level out to allow the TIM to spread evenly and to allow the cooler to have more surface to mate too. Polishing is only a secondary effect as it has no bearing on the cooling ability after the CPU is lapped.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *digital_steve* 
Well, i ordered a lapping kit and will give it a go... will be interesting to see if there is any noticable change in temperature
My new 75cfm fans in push/pull made a difference over the 52cfm push/pull fans i had though!


----------



## staryoshi

I'll post pictures of my ITX h50 once my board returns from RMA :'(


----------



## pieisgood2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Hello AMD guy here running a LAPPED 955 BE and my CPU temp is 34c @ idle It jumps 8-10c under load and my ambient temp is between 67 and 70F at the moment. I apologize that I can't give something more specific but my only thermometer at the moment is the thermostat which I bump up til I hear it activate. That gives me a reasonable reading to work with.

Here's my vid about my latest purchase from Lowe's to get my shroud and Pusher fan connected...

Making somethin out of nuthin...  6-32 thread pitch btw...

Also picked up some Gloss Crimson Red Universal Paint for my Grills, Slot Protectors and Thumb Devices at that same Lowe's.









~Ceadder









they are called screws not bolts lol. you should have went to home depot, much better selection of screws than lowes. they have 6-32's from 0.25" to 3.0" increasing by a quarter inch. so 0.25, 0.5, 0.75, 1.25, 1.50, etc.
i also went to lowes first, luckily the home depot was right next door.


----------



## Ceadderman

That was my 1st stop actually and they didn't have anything longer than 2".

Went up to Yakima for my annual checkup at the VA. The Vampire tagged me and made me wee in a cup. After that I had 4 hours to kill. So first stop was Home Depot. No paint(only black grey silver gold and white flavors







available) and I tried both brass and zinc flavors of the bolts. (Screws have points bolts do not







also screws don't come with nuts.







) No dice. I was quite sad cause I didn't know where the Lowe's was. Ripped a page out of the Yellow book looking for hardware no listing for either store.







. Still had some time to kill so I went to the Game stop in the shopping area.

When I came out there was a man walking to the sidewalk from the parking area so I asked him if there was a Lowe's and where it was at. He told me it was within walking distance but we drove over. lol

Anyway, Home Depot is always my first stop. I thought they would have more of a selection in a bigger city than my local store that I frequent. Nope. Same stock and everything. Almost right down to the floor plan. So nope no choice but to go someplace else and they had everything I needed.









So anyway once I get everything to how it should be I'll spray these with some satin black paint to color match them to the H50. No silver will show in my case except on the MoBo.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *pieisgood2* 
they are called screws not bolts lol. you should have went to home depot, much better selection of screws than lowes. they have 6-32's from 0.25" to 2.50" increasing by a quarter inch. so 0.25, 0.5, 0.75, 1.25, 1.50, etc.
i also went to lowes first, luckily the home depot was right next door.


----------



## pieisgood2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


That was my 1st stop actually and they didn't have anything longer than 2".

Went up to Yakima for my annual checkup at the VA. The Vampire tagged me and made me wee in a cup. After that I had 4 hours to kill. So first stop was Home Depot. No paint(only black grey silver gold and white flavors







available) and I tried both brass and zinc flavors of the bolts. (Screws have points bolts do not







also screws don't come with nuts.







) No dice. I was quite sad cause I didn't know where the Lowe's was. Ripped a page out of the Yellow book looking for hardware no listing for either store.







. Still had some time to kill so I went to the Game stop in the shopping area.

When I came out there was a man walking to the sidewalk from the parking area so I asked him if there was a Lowe's and where it was at. He told me it was within walking distance but we drove over. lol

Anyway, Home Depot is always my first stop. I thought they would have more of a selection in a bigger city than my local store that I frequent. Nope. Same stock and everything. Almost right down to the floor plan. So nope no choice but to go someplace else and they had everything I needed.









So anyway once I get everything to how it should be I'll spray these with some satin black paint to color match them to the H50. No silver will show in my case except on the MoBo.









~Ceadder










haha ok well a bolt is a type of screw anyway. i don't want to get technical and read the Machinery's Handbook. anyway i picked up some screws and washers from home depot.


----------



## Ceadderman

You lucked out is all I know.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pieisgood2*


haha ok well a bolt is a type of screw anyway. i don't want to get technical and read the Machinery's Handbook. anyway i picked up some screws and washers from home depot.


----------



## pieisgood2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


You lucked out is all I know.









~Ceadder










or maybe you were just looking for bolts lol. they are in the same section as screws.


----------



## Ceadderman

Et touche.







I knew there was a reason I didn't find what I was looking for. I defer to your wise judgement.







lol

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pieisgood2*


or maybe you were just looking for bolts lol. they are in the same section as screws.


----------



## pieisgood2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Et touche.







I knew there was a reason I didn't find what I was looking for. I defer to your wise judgement.







lol

~Ceadder










lol i have to admit when i went there i didn't even look at the bolts, i went straight for the screws. i did notice the bolts were there, i just didn't bother checking the lengths and what not.


----------



## Ceadderman

Now remember I am OCD, so I went over that isle with a fine tooth comb. The best I could come up with were bolts and not long enough to bother with.

Well just gutted my Corsair H50 fan without prejudice. That puppy begged and pleaded for it's livelihood but my Yate Loons smacked him around a bit til he begged for death instead.









Next vid will include pics of the finished process. It's kind of difficult wielding even this small LifeCam Cinema and performing reconstructive gutting of a 120mm fan at the same time, or I would have just filmed the whole thing.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pieisgood2*


lol i have to admit when i went there i didn't even look at the bolts, i went straight for the screws. i did notice the bolts were there, i just didn't bother checking the lengths and what not.


----------



## sudosub

I now have push/pull and am seeing a 3-4 degree difference (this is with stock HAF 922 and Corsair fan). I am pretty surprised at the effectiveness...my p95 load temp at a 3.9 1.45v OC now stays at 53-55 (for a split second it peaked at 56) and I idle at 32/33...I am pleased.


----------



## alayoubi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alayoubi*


I want to order a clear tuping from this link for Modding H50 :
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ty201id3odul.html

and its written :
Tygon is packaged in 50 foot boxes. Choose the number of feet you'd like in the Quantity Field below.

so Quantity of 1 in this case means 1 Foot ??

And how long tubes will i need Approximatly between rad , res, CPU Pump/block and one GPU block ? i know its depending on my case but what is much enough to do it ?
-------------
another Question plz :
Can i use a distilled water that used in car's battery/radiator ?


Need quick answers please







before ordering .


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alayoubi*


Need quick answers please







before ordering .


I wouldnt suggest using the h50 for all of that. rad res and cpu are about all you should usit for, adding the gpu will be too much for it


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alayoubi* 
I want to order a clear tuping from this link for Modding H50 :
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ty201id3odul.html

and its written :
Tygon is packaged in 50 foot boxes. Choose the number of feet you'd like in the Quantity Field below.

so Quantity of 1 in this case means 1 Foot ??

And how long tubes will i need Approximatly between rad , res, CPU Pump/block and one GPU block ? i know its depending on my case but what is much enough to do it ?
-------------
another Question plz :
Can i use a distilled water that used in car's battery/radiator ?

Need quick answers please before ordering .

Umm.. the distilled water can be used, I would not get something that is specific to batteries, you can pick up a gallon of the stuff in the water section of your normal store for under 2 bucks...

depends on where you place things some may get a way with only 10 feet some may use 15 or 20. get some string and figure out where you will place things and then I would get twice that amount so if you find out you have to reroute things and need a longer pice you have the tube to do so.

I would say 15 to 20 feet at least.

the ordering seams fairly simple and consistant with any thing bought by the foot, if you put 15 it will be 15 feet. when you check out if it is $1 a foot then it should be $15... if the price is different then something is wrong, and should call them....


----------



## alayoubi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OutOfBalanceOX*


I wouldnt suggest using the h50 for all of that. rad res and cpu are about all you should usit for, adding the gpu will be too much for it


thanks for response ..

i saw some body had the same setup with Gpu block , still thinking of having the gpu in the loop or not .


----------



## alayoubi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
Umm.. the distilled water can be used, I would not get something that is specific to batteries, you can pick up a gallon of the stuff in the water section of your normal store for under 2 bucks...

depends on where you place things some may get a way with only 10 feet some may use 15 or 20. get some string and figure out where you will place things and then I would get twice that amount so if you find out you have to reroute things and need a longer pice you have the tube to do so.

I would say 15 to 20 feet at least.

the ordering seams fairly simple and consistant with any thing bought by the foot, if you put 15 it will be 15 feet. when you check out if it is $1 a foot then it should be $15... if the price is different then something is wrong, and should call them....

thanks for replying ,

My case is mid tower or a little bigger and the spaces between things in the loop will be short inside the case nothing out , so i calculated it & i need only 4 - 6 feet just in case something goes wrong .

ok , regarding the barbs should i buy two 1/4in for the res to go with tube & H50 rad OR the 3/8in barbs that comes with the res is enough + buying 3/8ID tube ??

will i have to change the new coolant after months or it will last for a year or more ?

will i need a T-line ?

sorry for the questions , this is my first water cooling system ..


----------



## Magus2727

not sure on the size of tube, I dont think any thing over what comes stock would be much benifit (not sure what the stock tube size is). but stick with 1 size, if the H50 and Radiator are going to be 1/4" then make evrey thing 1/4"


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
not sure on the size of tube, I dont think any thing over what comes stock would be much benifit (not sure what the stock tube size is). but stick with 1 size, if the H50 and Radiator are going to be 1/4" then make evrey thing 1/4"

They have to be 1/4" ; it is the size of the barbs for both the pump/waterblock and the radiator.

When cutting the original tubes, be careful when cutting close to the pump/waterblock, the barbs are plastic.

Also, as for coolant, I use a mixture of antifreeze and distilled water for mine.

Don't forget a reservoir or you will have to ghetto mod it xD


----------



## AdvanSuper

What is the best way to mount this thing? I was experimenting and ended up raising the temp.... Should I just wait for my fans to get in??


----------



## SimplyTheBest

Hey everyone I joined the water cooling club, I like how it takes up less space then my giant Thermalright 120 extreme. Plus its quieter too.



















The fans are Scythe Slip Stream 120 PWM, Very nice and can blow up to 110cfm.. : ))))


----------



## alayoubi

Quote:

When cutting the original tubes, be careful when cutting close to the pump/waterblock, the barbs are plastic.
thanx for that info ..

can i also change these plastic barbs with metal one's ??
---
will i have to change the new coolant after months or it will last for a year or more ?


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Aye they are good fans, have 2 for exhaust, but they are not that great for rad's as the static pressure on them isnt great.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alayoubi* 
thanx for that info ..

can i also change these plastic barbs with metal one's ??
---
will i have to change the new coolant after months or it will last for a year or more ?

I think they are part of the plastic mold/cast so no....


----------



## crabster

Hey. I'd like to join the H50 club. I've had H50 since december. That one is in my old PC (My Fiance's PC now)

The new one is in my current PC, I must say I love the H50, although I wish there was a few more degrees performance. But eh, you can't have it all.

Attachment 161172

Attachment 161173

Noctua NF-P12 X2, as exhaust.

Fan->Shroud->Rad->Case-Fan


----------



## SimplyTheBest

Hey is there anyway to tell if your pump is running on full strength?


----------



## crabster

SimplyTheBest:
Check your BIOS or HW Monitor or something, it should be running at around ~1450 RPM


----------



## navit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crabster* 
SimplyTheBest:
Check your BIOS or HW Monitor or something, it should be running at around ~1450 RPM

I had to plug mine in a controller to get mine 1400+, mobo would only get it to 1350


----------



## crabster

Mine's running 1435-1460ish from the Mobo. Same mobo as you aswell I see.


----------



## navit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crabster* 
Mine's running 1435-1460ish from the Mobo. Same mobo as you aswell I see.

yea crazyness, My mobo wont run any of my fans at full rpms, even with all settings for that on disabled







, however its a problem I can deal with as my temps our great and I have 2 controllers anyway.

I think its a good







tradeoff for this board

Edit: the fan running on the cpu in probe is rated for 2000 rpm, thats as high as the mobo will take it.


----------



## Ceadderman

YouTube- Iz sad. 

This is a pretty good setup. Still not finished because of MoBo issues though.









Keep in mind that mine is in a High Airflow Case and I can run it as exhaust.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


What is the best way to mount this thing? I was experimenting and ended up raising the temp.... Should I just wait for my fans to get in??


----------



## Prescott-King

can u use OCZ Freeze as the TIM for this cooler?


----------



## enri95

Are these temps any good? I am using the stock fan as intake.
room temp 26c
Before with stock cooler:








With h50:








load:


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Prescott-King*


can u use OCZ Freeze as the TIM for this cooler?


Yes you can lol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *enri95*


Are these temps any good? I am using the stock fan as intake.
room temp 26c
Before with stock cooler:








With h50:








load:











It's alright... Intel are rated to be able to handle 90+ .. but anyways try a Push/Pull with other fans to improve a bit(gentle typhoon, noctua or others etc..) you may as well test exhaust to see if you get any difference.. as well do a re-seating applying another Thermal Paste: Shin-Etsu x23, AS5, MX-3, IC7 any of these would do great


----------



## Prescott-King

sweet. Well can someone add me to this club then? I just ordered a H50 from Tigerdirect.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Prescott-King*


sweet. Well can someone add me to this club then? I just ordered a H50 from Tigerdirect.










Heheh hey bro, At the bottom of the thread post club it says

Quote:



The H50 Owners - Add Yourself!
Due to the massive size of this thread I've given up updating it manually, please just add yourself to the bottom of the list!


http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...es-owners.html


----------



## enri95

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabster*


SimplyTheBest:
Check your BIOS or HW Monitor or something, it should be running at around ~1450 RPM



mine is running at 1350!! What can i do to increase to 1450??









also is 905rpm for the fan good?


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *enri95*


mine is running at 1350!! What can i do to increase to 1450??









also is 905rpm for the fan good?


Connect them directly to your PSU, that will force them to run at Full Speed - ofcourse that is you have the adapters to do this.
3 pin to molex
4 pin to molex

Minor issue you won't be able to monitor them

You may also use a Fan Controller as well
Fanmate2, Zalman MFC1, etc...


----------



## enri95

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


Connect them directly to your PSU, that will force them to run at Full Speed - ofcourse that is you have the adapters to do this.
3 pin to molex
4 pin to molex

Minor issue you won't be able to monitor them unless you have a 3rd party fan controller.


I don't have that adapter ,will it cool much better at 1450? I might get one


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *enri95*


I don't have that adapter ,will it cool much better at 1450? I might get one










well ofcourse it will.. but not much of a huge difference compared to 1350 that you are at currently.... but as for the Fan yes it will be a huge difference it should be allot higher


----------



## enri95

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


Yes you can lol

It's alright... Intel are rated to be able to handle 90+ .. but anyways try a Push/Pull with other fans to improve a bit(gentle typhoon, noctua or others etc..) you may as well test exhaust to see if you get any difference.. as well do a re-seating applying another Thermal Paste: Shin-Etsu x23, AS5, MX-3, IC7 any of these would do great


The only thing i don't want to do is re-seating it; it was a torture installing/seating this cooler.


----------



## enri95

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
well ofcourse it will.. but not much of a huge difference compared to 1350 that you are at currently.... but as for the Fan yes it will be a huge difference it should be allot higher

how do i increase the fan rpm??


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *enri95* 
The only thing i don't want to do is re-seating it; it was a torture installing/seating this cooler.









Don't worry its good for practicing... plus its for cooling improvements


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *enri95* 
how do i increase the fan rpm??









I've just told you LOL exactly my past reply it was for Both of them the Pump & the Fan


----------



## enri95

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
I've just told you LOL exactly my past reply it was for Both of them the Pump & the Fan

ohh , you can't do it in bios or with software?







i mean the fan not the pump.

edit: I thought the cpu fan header can be increased the rpm in bios but not the chasis.... I don't know if I'm being clear..


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *enri95* 
ohh , you can't do it in bios or with software?







i mean the fan not the pump

I thought you already tried disabled system fan control in Bios - that should have forced full 100% on your fan & pump - If you haven't tried it then go do it.

Anyways what I recommended applies to Both either the Pump or either the Fan - Software won't help much.. since it doesn't always work... but if you want to try download: SpeedFan


----------



## enri95

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
I thought you already tried disabled system fan control in Bios - that should have forced full 100% on your fan & pump - If you haven't tried it then go do it.

Anyways what I recommended applies to Both either the Pump or either the Fan - Software won't help much.. since it doesn't always work... but if you want to try download: SpeedFan

I'm not sure how to do that !!

is it " cpu smart fan control"? it's enabled


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *enri95* 
I'm not sure how to do that !!

is it " cpu smart fan control"? it's enabled

Exactly disabled it... but if it doesn't change the RPM speeds.. then it means you need to buy adapters & plug them to the PSU (it will always run 100% there)


----------



## enri95

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


Exactly disabled it... but if it doesn't change the RPM speeds.. then it means you need to buy adapters & plug them to the PSU (it will always run 100% there)


thnx!! it's running at 1500rpm now







. But i was wondering , will running the fan at full speed damage it (in the long run)?


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *enri95*


thnx!! it's running at 1500rpm now







. But i was wondering , will running the fan at full speed damage it (in the long run)?


Nahh it won't... it was made to run at full speed - unless they say "its recommended to not run the fan at full speed" in which it doesn't say that anywhere lol


----------



## enri95

Thanks man +rep









I'm very happy with 30c drop on load







great cooler.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *enri95*


Thanks man +rep









I'm very happy with 30c drop on load







great cooler.


woot woot!


----------



## nil405

Greetings all.


----------



## scottath

Phone pic - but it kinda works.....


























Both lights on and off.

the fan controller in the drive bays and fans cabling are temporary until i get some more 3 pin extenders.
The acrylic is part of my mod im doing atm - i think its looking rather nice so far.
Also - the gfx card is a 7300GT - my HD5850 is on rma (back tomorrow i hope) - its power cable will be coming from where the sata cables go through.
And yes - the fan on the 7300GT is unplugged - cause the fan is screwed

Need to reseat my H50 too - screwed up the TIM - but all is running nicely.
What you lot think?


----------



## looser101

Looks good! The way to not mess up the tim is to only have the top bracket screws in only a couple threads. Hold the bracket up with one hand and place the pump in the bracket and lock it in. Now you can keep pulling up on the pump and start tightening the screws. That keeps the pump from touching the tim until you tighten the screws.


----------



## AdvanSuper

I have the fan control disabled and it still only runs @ 1300-1400


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
I have the fan control disabled and it still only runs @ 1300-1400









Spec for pump is 1400. 1700 for the fan at max.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scottath* 
Phone pic - but it kinda works.....

Both lights on and off.

the fan controller in the drive bays and fans cabling are temporary until i get some more 3 pin extenders.
The acrylic is part of my mod im doing atm - i think its looking rather nice so far.
Also - the gfx card is a 7300GT - my HD5850 is on rma (back tomorrow i hope) - its power cable will be coming from where the sata cables go through.
And yes - the fan on the 7300GT is unplugged - cause the fan is screwed

Need to reseat my H50 too - screwed up the TIM - but all is running nicely.
What you lot think?

Nice work man. Thats a BIG case you have there









If its working to your expectations, dont bother with another reseat. However, if you feel the need,,, what *looser101* said.


----------



## looser101

Welcome back, Sethy. We missed you.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottath*


Phone pic - but it kinda works.....


























Both lights on and off.

the fan controller in the drive bays and fans cabling are temporary until i get some more 3 pin extenders.
The acrylic is part of my mod im doing atm - i think its looking rather nice so far.
Also - the gfx card is a 7300GT - my HD5850 is on rma (back tomorrow i hope) - its power cable will be coming from where the sata cables go through.
And yes - the fan on the 7300GT is unplugged - cause the fan is screwed

Need to reseat my H50 too - screwed up the TIM - but all is running nicely.
What you lot think?


You make me want to buy a case that huge







I like the mod too


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Welcome back, Sethy. We missed you.










Awww thanks...









Its been very busy at work and I dont seem to be able to get on as often as Id like.


----------



## digital_steve

My pump runs at 1320-1360 RPM off the northbridge header... i figured that 40RPM wasn't going to make all that much difference.
All my runs run a few tens under their rated RPM; i ran a y splitter on the CPU header and run my push/pull fans from that, then i know that they're both running at the same RPM regardless.


----------



## Nakattk

Has anyone tried top mount intake? I just got the HAF X and I want to use my open top fan slot to mount my H50. There are 2 hole that will work for one side, but I will have to make a sort of cross rail to hold the other side up. Anyone with pics of a top mount inside the case setup? Will something like this hurt the performance or the pump with the rad so high? I will be using shrouds with two scythe gt 1450's.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Spec for pump is 1400. 1700 for the fan at max.


I see. Hopefully push/pull makes a difference then..


----------



## Prescott-King

I thought bout mounting my incoming H50 in the top of my HAF932.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


I see. Hopefully push/pull makes a difference then..


It absolutely will. I highly recommend the Gentle Typhoons AP-15.


----------



## Demented

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabster*


SimplyTheBest:
Check your BIOS or HW Monitor or something, it should be running at around ~1450 RPM


Mine was running at 1323-1333 off the CHA_FAN3 header on my mobo. I switched it to the PWR_FAN header instead and now it's running at 1350-1360.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *navit*


I had to plug mine in a controller to get mine 1400+, mobo would only get it to 1350


I may have to try that. Would one Ultra KAZE run OK off the mobo for a small test? I don't want to put too powerful of a fan on the mobo if it's going to cause problems.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


My pump runs at 1320-1360 RPM off the northbridge header... i figured that 40RPM wasn't going to make all that much difference.
All my runs run a few tens under their rated RPM; i ran a y splitter on the CPU header and run my push/pull fans from that, then i know that they're both running at the same RPM regardless.


That's what mine is running at now. My Ultra KAZE's run lower than the said 3000 RPM's using my fan controller, but they still move a crap load of air! In fact, since removing the pull fan's shroud (for space reasons) they even got a little louder.


----------



## Ceadderman

@scott...

Hey Mate you'll have better temps if you 180 the Rad so the fittings are at the bottom.

Other than that, that's a sick sick sick setup. That 2010 is huge compared to my 932.









~Ceadder


----------



## scottath

why so will the temps be better?
either way the pump is pushing the water the same distance........
Or is it something like hot water rises....lol


----------



## fssbzz

complete my lapped.

*[56k] Lapped H50+1090T+Crosshair IV*


----------



## Ceadderman

Well it helps your pump last longer for one. It will work the way it is now but air gets trapped there causing the pump to work itself to death. Remember now, there IS air in the system. The question is do you want to alleviate the possibility of trapping it in the fittings(even @ the pump) or do you want to allow the system to naturally purge it to a spot where it will be trapped and be rendered harmless to the cooler?

My Rad is horizontal so any air in my system gets trapped at the top of the Rad where it sits harmless and allows my system to function properly.

Check the link in my sig for how it's set up. Got a vid put together about my system.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottath*


why so will the temps be better?
either way the pump is pushing the water the same distance........
Or is it something like hot water rises....lol


----------



## Demented

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Well it helps your pump last longer for one. It will work the way it is now but air gets trapped there causing the pump to work itself to death. Remember now, there IS air in the system. The question is do you want to alleviate the possibility of trapping it in the fittings(even @ the pump) or do you want to allow the system to naturally purge it to a spot where it will be trapped and be rendered harmless to the cooler?

My Rad is horizontal so any air in my system gets trapped at the top of the Rad where it sits harmless and allows my system to function properly.

Check the link in my sig for how it's set up. Got a vid put together about my system.









~Ceadder










I have also heard many people say that since it is a closed loop, there isn't much (if any) air in the loop, so this wouldn't be an issue. Plus, the manufacturer designed it that way, and instructs via video to have them at the top. Now I understand if for certain rigs placement of them at the bottom would work better, but I haven't seen any major info that suggests one will get better temps if they switch it.


----------



## scottath

Even still - with the tubes at the top of the rad, the top of the rad is still above the pump - so the air will still be trapped in the rad as its the highest point.


----------



## Demented

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottath*


Even still - with the tubes at the top of the rad, the top of the rad is still above the pump - so the air will still be trapped in the rad as its the highest point.


Hmmm...very interesting...but that's a project for another day...I just removed my pull shroud, and cut my screws to fit, so I don't feel like opening it up again. Definitely something I may have to try.


----------



## Ceadderman

jfyi, the system has enough air in it that when I lapped the plate on it, you could actually hear the liquid sloshing around in the Radiator. It sure wasn't quiet about it either.









Just remember though, in any radiator system there has to be enough air in the system to allow for expansion. The higher the temp of the liquid the more air is required to allow the molecules to expand to avoid the burst point of the Rad. Now in this instance I doubt there is a lot of air in the system because the burst point should be for all intents and purposes pretty low as you're not heating the liquid very much. But they have(corsair doesn't make these btw) to have the system built to WCS specs. What's the worst case scenario... System heats up to 90c (give or take) due to part failures like fan and CPU. Something that would cause a catastrophic system failure that would put a tremendous amount of heat into the system in a short time.

Also the Corsair tech that did the vid SPECIFICALLY states that they found that it works best for them. Real world 24/7/365 is completely different to their experience as I doubt they are running that Cooler 24/7/365.

But my point right from the beginning is for people to extend the life of their H50 beyond the 2 year warranty. The cooling benefits are secondary to the suggestion. Any benefits you see would be that much more of a plus for having mounted the Rad with the fittings at the bottom of a vertical mount.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demented*


Hmmm...very interesting...but that's a project for another day...I just removed my pull shroud, and cut my screws to fit, so I don't feel like opening it up again. Definitely something I may have to try.


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
@scott...

Hey Mate you'll have better temps if you 180 the Rad so the fittings are at the bottom.

Other than that, that's a sick sick sick setup. That 2010 is huge compared to my 932.









~Ceadder









My load temps are 1c lower @ load with the pumps on top.. No difference in idle


----------



## alayoubi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


@scott...

Hey Mate you'll have better temps if you 180 the Rad so the fittings are at the bottom.

Other than that, that's a sick sick sick setup.

~Ceadder










i think in both ways the air bubbles will go up , right ?


----------



## scottath

yea - so it doesnt matter ?????? lol


----------



## Ceadderman

There's more to the 180 than temps. So you got 1c difference. I have to ask but is that worth possibly shortening the lifespan of the pump? Cause that's what's really at stake. The air will eventually build up and block the flow or at least diminish it enough to make the pump overwork itself. Which will actually increase the temps. If you don't believe me then run your system without your side door and occasionally touch the pump housing. The heat that you feel will build up over time and increase temps.

But hey it's your system. How long have you had it and how long have you run it in that configuration?









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *ThumperSD*


My load temps are 1c lower @ load with the pumps on top.. No difference in idle


----------



## scottath

Mines only been a few months - but it hasnt been in this case that long.
last case the rad was same orientation - but the pump was lower still in comparison


----------



## enri95

does it make a difference if I installed the pump upside down?( the corsair logo is upside down)









it didn't fit any other way


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope. You should be able to mount the pump in any orientation so long as the lead can be connected to another power source other than the CPU. You want it connected to 100% power and the CPU connection is a fluctuating one.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *enri95*


does it make a difference if I installed the pump upside down?( the corsair logo is upside down)









it didn't fit any other way


----------



## looser101

Really you guys are over thinking this. If air was an issue you would hear it making noise going through the pump, like it does sometimes if you move your case when it's running. If it's not making any noise then the air is sitting somewhere out of the flow of the liquid. Proclaiming that it has to be in a certain direction is just...well...silly.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Getting my fans in today hopefully I notice a difference...


----------



## Turgin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nakattk*


Has anyone tried top mount intake? I just got the HAF X and I want to use my open top fan slot to mount my H50. There are 2 hole that will work for one side, but I will have to make a sort of cross rail to hold the other side up. Anyone with pics of a top mount inside the case setup? Will something like this hurt the performance or the pump with the rad so high? I will be using shrouds with two scythe gt 1450's.


I mounted my H50 in the top of my ATCS 840. Mine is exhaust though. Here's a link to my post with pics in this thread:

http://www.overclock.net/9623020-post9779.html

I have a single H101 as a push fan and a 38mm shroud. Hope this helps some.


----------



## Nakattk

Nice thanks for the information. I just need to find the right size screws now. I'm going to use 25mm shroud and fan. Does it help to have shrouds on both sides or just on the intake side?


----------



## Magus2727

it will help to have them on both


----------



## Ceadderman

Tell that to the gentleman who was asking for help because his pump was making funny noises he even posted a vid link for it. My reply *#9656* got it cleared up. It is an issue. Probably more so than some people realize.

Also say you do have yours set up fittings at the top. As you said the air only has one place to be right? If there is a significant amount of air for expansion purposes then it's all trapped in the area of the fittings. That means that you don't even need to move the system to have air get into the return line. It's right there. Power fluctuates enough that all it would take is a large enough surge to make the system hiccup and there you have it, air reintroduced to the line.

Now what are the chances of this happening if the fittings are strictly in the down position in a vertical mounting? ZERO there is ZERO chance of the air getting introduced to the line. Even if you move your system, unless your cable management skills demand an upside down orientation which is pretty doubtful in itself.

What you consider over thinking, I consider solid planning. If I have a working plan to implement before I even mount one (I did) then I can avoid the issues altogether. Look in my sig My 932 YouTube link. System is 100% horizontal all the air is trapped at the top and no chance it gets back to the pump.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Really you guys are over thinking this. If air was an issue you would hear it making noise going through the pump, like it does sometimes if you move your case when it's running. If it's not making any noise then the air is sitting somewhere out of the flow of the liquid. Proclaiming that it has to be in a certain direction is just...well...silly.


----------



## PC Gamer

Hey guys, I switched my mounting for my rad to the top instead of the rear. I like it because when I was intaking air from the metal grills it was too noisy. I'm pretty happy with just one fan. I used to have a push pull exhaust which was nice, but I'm liking this setup much more due to my pc being very quiet now. The temps are decent as well.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Push/Pull temps and I reseated once again with new TIM...


----------



## Ceadderman

Two things... which TIM did you use? And which is your pump speed? I doubt that 3rd fan system is your pump? 3k+ RPM is pretty strong.

Oh I guess I have two more things to ask as well...

which do you have going Intake or Exhaust? And what're your ambient temps?









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Push/Pull temps and I reseated once again with new TIM...


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Two things... which TIM did you use? And which is your pump speed? I doubt that 3rd fan system is your pump? 3k+ RPM is pretty strong.

Oh I guess I have two more things to ask as well...

which do you have going Intake or Exhaust? And what're your ambient temps?









~Ceadder









I think the 2nd fan must be the pump ... max 1415rpm


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PC Gamer* 
Hey guys, I switched my mounting for my rad to the top instead of the rear. I like it because when I was intaking air from the metal grills it was too noisy. I'm pretty happy with just one fan. I used to have a push pull exhaust which was nice, but I'm liking this setup much more due to my pc being very quiet now. The temps are decent as well.









'Tis very clean in your case too!


----------



## Killhouse

Oops double post, ill make the most of it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
I think the 2nd fan must be the pump ... max 1415rpm

That is your pump


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes, I would think so too. But my OCD demands that I ask.







lol

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Oops double post, ill make the most of it.

That is your pump


----------



## AdvanSuper

Pump is at 1350-1400, push/pull is setup as intake 2x 120mm fans @ 90CFM mounted on the rear, 2x 140mm fans for exhaust and 120mm Ultra Kaze as a lower intake. AS5 is the TIM I used as it's the only stuff I have. Room temperature is about 70-75*F*


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay the AS5 takes longer than 1 day to cure if I recall correctly. Not much longer than that however.

Doesn't really matter too much though because I should have looked that you have Intel or AMD. Intel CPUs' run hotter(you pay a price for the HT technology and this price is heat) than AMDs'. In any case your system looks to be running just fine. 47c is better than the last few reports of 48-50c idle temps. Of course if Intel could pin your CPU failure to an OC then they won't honor your warranty anyway.









Now what I'm going to suggest will void at least one warranty. To get lower a temp(shave 3-5c +/-) is to Lapp your CPU and your Cooler plate. I did my AMD CPU prior to checking the stock temps with the H50. So I can't give you what the difference being would be. But afterward when everything ran with just 1 fan in Exhaust, I get 34c Idle/48c load temps. That's much better than what I was getting with the stock AMD cooler.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Pump is at 1350-1400, push/pull is setup as intake 2x 120mm fans @ 90CFM mounted on the rear, 2x 140mm fans for exhaust and 120mm Ultra Kaze as a lower intake. AS5 is the TIM I used as it's the only stuff I have. Room temperature is about 70-75*F*


----------



## AdvanSuper

I guess I'll see what happens when it cures... I was expecting some lower temps it peaked at 75c on LinX...


----------



## scottath

AS5 takes up to 200 Heat cycles to fully cure.....

Ive Lapped my TRUE before (notorious for a dodge contact plate though) and got ~6c better temps - and that was without touching the cpu.


----------



## PC Gamer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


'Tis very clean in your case too!


Thanks!


----------



## ez12a

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PC Gamer*


Hey guys, I switched my mounting for my rad to the top instead of the rear. I like it because when I was intaking air from the metal grills it was too noisy. I'm pretty happy with just one fan. I used to have a push pull exhaust which was nice, but I'm liking this setup much more due to my pc being very quiet now. The temps are decent as well.



















if intaking from the rear creates a lot of noise, add a shroud in, so it appears like this:

case > shroud > fan > rad > fan

or fan > shroud > case > shroud > rad > fan

basically you cannot have a fan directly against the rear grille on the inside intaking air. Because the grille itself is raised it creates turbulence. I had a whistle sound on mine before i added a shroud in between. Now i get colder air and quiet operation.


----------



## scottath

i got some more decent pics.....still with my phone though

















i might look at rotating the rad tonight.


----------



## sendblink23

hey guys finally got the return RMA of my CPU, so decided to mount back the H50, used MX-3, placed upside down logo the pump & rad pumps down as well (Exhaust / R4's: Fan > Shroud > Rad > Fan) then overclocked to 3.92Ghz (17.5 x 224) with stock voltage.

Well instead of regular stress test I just played Crysis, Dirt 2 & GTA 4 for about 2 hours then rendered a 1 hour hd video with Sony Vegas.. this was done with the Air Conditioner powered off with Window opened. So here are my results:









case pics of the mount from out side:








*note* don't have a fan grill on my side fan(its coming in the mail)

now from inside:









Next I will re-organize the cables inside my case, and do similar test but with Air Conditioner powered on(duhh with window closed lol).


----------



## scottath

WOW HUGE PICS
temps looking about on par with average.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Before push/pull










Should I cut out the grill on the rear port? Does it help at all>


----------



## Ceadderman

I imagine that makes a minor difference if @ all. I would try using some type of shroud before going to such an extreme as cutting the grill out. It looks like you'll have the room but I'm basing this on pre-Push/Pull pics.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Before push/pull










Should I cut out the grill on the rear port? Does it help at all>


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I imagine that makes a minor difference if @ all. I would try using some type of shroud before going to such an extreme as cutting the grill out. It looks like you'll have the room but I'm basing this on pre-Push/Pull pics.









~Ceadder










I think I would cut it VERY close with a shroud.


----------



## scottath

grill will make next to nothing on temps.
will however make it quieter to a point (if running high powered fans)


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottath*


grill will make next to nothing on temps.
will however make it quieter to a point (if running high powered fans)


lol These fans will be loud regardless...

And the difference with a shroud?


----------



## navit

If a shroud will cut down on the noise a little does it need to be both fans on a push pull to do it?
Or can you just run a shroud between the push fan and the rad?


----------



## Ceadderman

Just the Push fan and Rad will do. But the shroud concentrates the flow better on the Rad. I won't know about sound until I get my H50 working again. It's down due to the RMA of my MoBo.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *navit*


If a shroud will cut down on the noise a little does it need to be both fans on a push pull to do it?
Or can you just run a shroud between the push fan and the rad?


----------



## navit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Just the Push fan and Rad will do. But the shroud concentrates the flow better on the Rad. I won't know about sound until I get my H50 working again. It's down due to the RMA of my MoBo.










~Ceadder










Thanks for the reply Ceadder









Sorry again for the other morning


----------



## Ceadderman

Meh, it couldn't have been too bad since I've already forgotten it. lol









An no problem it's what I do. Or used to when I worked parts counter.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *navit*


Thanks for the reply Ceadder









Sorry again for the other morning


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Before push/pull

Should I cut out the grill on the rear port? Does it help at all>



I agree with *scottath *in relation to temps. Removing the grill will reduce the fan noise slightly, due to the turbulence it creates.


----------



## enri95

People with q9550 2.83 ghz what are your temps, so I can compare mines?


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scottath* 
WOW HUGE PICS
temps looking about on par with average.

"on par with average"... ofcourse not at all... I live in Puerto Rico my ambients temps are pretty high.

Now before (Ac off):









After (Ac On):








This time I only did the same video file rendering then played a little bit of Crysis, Dirt 2 & Wii emulator.

What do you guys think of that I never even saw 40c, woot 39c max with the AC On - that is a new record for me even though I'm not touching 4ghz just 3.92Ghz.

I'm gonna leave my computer like this, I'm not changing anything at all.... even though I feel like testing my regular overclock of 4.21ghz but I'll do that next week.


----------



## PC Gamer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ez12a* 
if intaking from the rear creates a lot of noise, add a shroud in, so it appears like this:

case > shroud > fan > rad > fan

or fan > shroud > case > shroud > rad > fan

basically you cannot have a fan directly against the rear grille on the inside intaking air. Because the grille itself is raised it creates turbulence. I had a whistle sound on mine before i added a shroud in between. Now i get colder air and quiet operation.

Thanks I'll keep that in mind.







I might go back to push pull. I'll have to think about it.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Tell that to the gentleman who was asking for help because his pump was making funny noises he even posted a vid link for it. My reply *#9656* got it cleared up. It is an issue. Probably more so than some people realize.

Also say you do have yours set up fittings at the top. As you said the air only has one place to be right? If there is a significant amount of air for expansion purposes then it's all trapped in the area of the fittings. That means that you don't even need to move the system to have air get into the return line. It's right there. Power fluctuates enough that all it would take is a large enough surge to make the system hiccup and there you have it, air reintroduced to the line.

Now what are the chances of this happening if the fittings are strictly in the down position in a vertical mounting? ZERO there is ZERO chance of the air getting introduced to the line. Even if you move your system, unless your cable management skills demand an upside down orientation which is pretty doubtful in itself.

What you consider over thinking, I consider solid planning. If I have a working plan to implement before I even mount one (I did) then I can avoid the issues altogether. Look in my sig My 932 YouTube link. System is 100% horizontal all the air is trapped at the top and no chance it gets back to the pump.









~Ceadder










I don't have a problem with how you are doing it, and why. Just stop insisting that there is a problem with having the tubes in the up position. The H50 does and will work as intended, in that position (period). If you don't believe me ask Corsair. They wouldn't say it unless they were absolutely positive that it does, and was designed to. And if for some reason it didn't, then it should be RMA'ed, cause it's broken. Your arguments are based on assumptions and not facts, so stop it!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottath*


i might look at rotating the rad tonight.


As you wish, but really, it is unnecessary.


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


There's more to the 180 than temps. So you got 1c difference. I have to ask but is that worth possibly shortening the lifespan of the pump? Cause that's what's really at stake. The air will eventually build up and block the flow or at least diminish it enough to make the pump overwork itself. Which will actually increase the temps. If you don't believe me then run your system without your side door and occasionally touch the pump housing. The heat that you feel will build up over time and increase temps.

But hey it's your system. How long have you had it and how long have you run it in that configuration?









~Ceadder










Im talking strictly about temps. You said that one can achieve lower temps but doing the 180 which was false when I tried it myself. So saying what you said was misleading.

I'll probably flip it back though if it will increase the lifespan of the pump. Where did you hear about this?


----------



## imh073p

Ok added a shroud and had to chop the rear grill because of said turbulence issues. Dropped 3c load with the shroud so it worked in the end.









Fan has to sit outside now because my scout is rather crammed!









My rig is much quieter without the fangrill, 72c after 20 passes of linX @4ghz. I am really liking this h-50 setup better than the normal P/P i had before.


----------



## Ceadderman

I apologize if you zero'ed in on ONE instance where I did not give both issues = coverage. But you can go throughout this thread and see where I have done so. In any case I'll make sure to cover my ass from now on so that way I will no longer mislead anyone. Wouldn't want people who don't look at all the information available to them to be mad @ me because they didn't get better temps with it orientated in a better way.

For those who ask how I know this? It's called APPLIED LOGIC and having experience with Radiators in the automotive field.

Now here is where the applied logic kicks in. Any system that displaces water builds up pressure when the water is heated.

Can I get an amen?

Pressure build up has to be displaced and accounted for in a closed loop system where you cannot add or subtract the liquid. This is where air comes in. The air inside heats up along with the water creating condensation inside the Rad.

Can I get an amen?

We know that air rises because it's lighter than water. If you have any questions on this fill a bottle with liquid up to it's neck apply cap and invert said bottle. What happened to the air? It went up, did it not?

Sorry I think this too deserves an amen how bout you all?

However water pumps are fragile things. If they dry out they go *poof*.

Can this brotha get another amen?

Now when you apply these four rules what do we learn? We learn that we must keep the pump submersed in liquid for them to stay running. That when air is introduced to the pump it does what if no liquid follows? It dries out. Right? So, I'm no genius and never claimed to be but by this very logic is it not better to run the fittings as far away from air as possible? Is that not in the south orientation instead of the north?

I don't mind being held accountable for what I say. However, this is not an instance where I never said anything about either issue and then just came on espoused my opinion on the matter and then left people to fend for themselves. I've stated both as clearly and concisely as possible.

Now I don't want anyone to take the above the wrong way. This is not to ridicule or vent on another poster. I'm just pointing out that I should probably do a better job of giving information and advice.

Thanks for bringing it to my attention. I'll make certain not to err like that again.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


I don't have a problem with how you are doing it, and why. Just stop insisting that there is a problem with having the tubes in the up position. The H50 does and will work as intended, in that position (period). If you don't believe me ask Corsair. They wouldn't say it unless they were absolutely positive that it does, and was designed to. And if for some reason it didn't, then it should be RMA'ed, cause it's broken. Your arguments are based on assumptions and not facts, so stop it!

As you wish, but really, it is unnecessary.


----------



## AdvanSuper

My temps were the exact same when I had it 180... So yeah...

Idle temps went up a bit when closing my case up... I wanna be cooler like everyone else


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
My temps were the exact same when I had it 180... So yeah...

Idle temps went up a bit when closing my case up... I wanna be cooler like everyone else









Did you try push/pull as in Exhaust: Fan > Shroud > Rad > Fan ?

Could you also get a hold of other fans for testings?


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
Did you try push/pull as in Exhaust: Fan > Shroud > Rad > Fan ?

Could you also get a hold of other fans for testings?

I could try exhaust but that would then leave me with only one bottom intake... I only have 3 120mm fans... 2 are identical 90CFM fans and the other is my Ultra Kaze I am using as a lower intake.

Unless I turn one top 140mm into and intake?

I do not have a shroud nor know which/what size to get.


----------



## looser101

Ceadderman: Since you didn't understand the gist of my posts let me make a little more blunt...
Assumptions, if valid (but mostly invalid) are not equal to proof.
Stop jumping to conclusions without proof.

ie. Put up or shut-up.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *imh073p* 
Ok added a shroud and had to chop the rear grill because of said turbulence issues. Dropped 3c load with the shroud so it worked in the end.

Fan has to sit outside now because my scout is rather crammed!

My rig is much quieter without the fangrill, 72c after 20 passes of linX @4ghz. I am really liking this h-50 setup better than the normal P/P i had before.

Very nice. I love shrouds









*looser101 & Ceadderman*, you both have valid points. Now, settle down, the both of you


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
I could try exhaust but that would then leave me with only one bottom intake... I only have 3 120mm fans... 2 are identical 90CFM fans and the other is my Ultra Kaze I am using as a lower intake.

Unless I turn one top 140mm into and intake?

I do not have a shroud nor know which/what size to get.

Buy some more fans then.... Shrouds could be 38 or 25 which ever works nice - get a really cheap 120mm fan, cut off the middle Fan and that equals to a Shroud - use that... you have to spend money to get improvements... you may leave your current fans where they are.. wait until you buy extra fans for the H50 mounting plan.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


Buy some more fans then.... Shrouds could be 38 or 25 which ever works nice - get a really cheap 120mm fan, cut off the middle Fan and that equals to a Shroud - use that... you have to spend money to get improvements... you may leave your current fans where they are.. wait until you buy extra fans for the H50 mounting plan.


I already spent money on fans lol.. I bought the two 140mm and the Ultra Kaze and used the 90cfm ones in push/pull instead of spending money on more 120mm fans which have a little more or less cfm and rpm. How long of screws do I need for the shroud and fan when they screw into the rad??


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


I already spent money on fans lol.. I bought the two 140mm and the Ultra Kaze and used the 90cfm ones in push/pull instead of spending money on more 120mm fans which have a little more or less cfm and rpm. How long of screws do I need for the shroud and fan when they screw into the rad??


On that I actually have no clue what are the sizes... I had some random screws on my garage and went creative on how to give use to them... look at my picture of my mount for a much more closer:


----------



## AdvanSuper

I just tried the exhaust and the temps are the same. Oh wells... I have some crappy 120mm fans laying around I'll make a shroud and try to get some screws.


----------



## Ceadderman

My bolts for my shroud(25mm^2) are long. 2" bolts would've been too short. I'm using 120mm fan silencers as gaskets to seal the leaks between fans. The Corsair Shroud has no LED bosses. So I'm going to adapt 3" bolts to fit using 2 6-32 pitch nuts per bolt and then lop off the excess.

Basically what you do is thread two retaining nuts most of the way to the head.(okay you Pervs not those kinds of nuts or heads







) Insert the bolt into the threaded opening, taking care not to frag the vanes of the Rad. Then you back the 1st one as tight as it will go without snapping the ear. Then back the other one to it and give it enough pressure to lock it together. Then using a dremel, or a hacksaw blade or even a bolt cutter or pair or fragged nibs cut it as close to the bottom nut as possible. Don't worry about fragging the thread as it'll keep the nuts secure and from backing off the new bolt w/o loc-tite.

If you go with the ultra thick Deltas', this length won't work. You'll probably have to get a short one like sendblink here has done at the bottom of his setup. That's if the throughway isn't piped. If it is I suspect some modification to it is in order.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


On that I actually have no clue what are the sizes... I had some random screws on my garage and went creative on how to give use to them... look at my picture of my mount for a much more closer:


----------



## digital_steve

I got tired of trying to find appropriate length 6-32 pitch bolts... so i just tapped the rad to take M4 thread and cut some bolts to length, ran a die over them and that worked fine.


----------



## Sean W.

i got longer bolts and cut them down with a grinder


----------



## TweakerNoob

How did you tap the threaded ears on the rad? Did you bend the ears out away from the rad? I just tried tonight to run a 6-32 tap through to clean out a bad thread but there is not enough space between the ear and the rad fins to get the tap in far enough.

A 6-32 thumb screw ran through did the trick but just curious what you did.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


I got tired of trying to find appropriate length 6-32 pitch bolts... so i just tapped the rad to take M4 thread and cut some bolts to length, ran a die over them and that worked fine.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


I already spent money on fans lol.. I bought the two 140mm and the Ultra Kaze and used the 90cfm ones in push/pull instead of spending money on more 120mm fans which have a little more or less cfm and rpm. How long of screws do I need for the shroud and fan when they screw into the rad??


I have my H50 set up in push/pull with 25mm shrouds and the Ultra Kazes and I used 6-32 x 3/8" screws to attach the shrouds to the rad and then 6-32 x 2" screws to attach the Kazes to the shrouds and they worked perfect. The hardest part was attaching the shrouds since you have to put the 3/8" screws into the holes on the fan closest to the rad, making it necessary to screw them in at an angle, but with a flathead it wasn't too difficult.


----------



## Royraiden

Guys another noob question,What do I need to install my two Ultra kaze in a push/pull configuration?Is it enough with just the screws that come with the fans or do I need something else?


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Royraiden*


Guys another noob question,What do I need to install my two Ultra kaze in a push/pull configuration?Is it enough with just the screws that come with the fans or do I need something else?


You need 6-32 screws, and the ones that came with the H50 are too short to attach Ultra Kazes to the rad, if that's what you're asking.


----------



## pez

Had mine for a while guys, but curious, I have mine with it oriented with the radiator hoses going from top to bottom. I notice some people orient it where the hoses sit at the bottom...I was wondering if this makes a difference in temps?


----------



## Royraiden

Quote:


Originally Posted by *superhead91* 
You need 6-32 screws, and the ones that came with the H50 are too short to attach Ultra Kazes to the rad, if that's what you're asking.

Thanks a lot.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Royraiden*


Thanks a lot.


No problem. I actually used 6-32 x 3/8" screws to attach my shrouds to my rad, so they should work to attach the Kazes.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Had mine for a while guys, but curious, I have mine with it oriented with the radiator hoses going from top to bottom. I notice some people orient it where the hoses sit at the bottom...I was wondering if this makes a difference in temps?

No.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
No.

Have you tried it..?


----------



## Ceadderman

Apparently some people have and they say that it makes no difference.

I say doing it should promote better pump health.

I'm not going to be testing the theory of better cooling with the fittings in either location because quite frankly what's 1 degree temp difference for me after I've lapped the CPU and the Pump? When it's running I get 34c @ idle. The only testing I'm going to be doing at this point is my Pusher/Shroud/Rad/Puller setup.







lol

If there is a question of logic I guess the best source of information on the health of the pump already exists in the h2o forum.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Have you tried it..?


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Had mine for a while guys, but curious, I have mine with it oriented with the radiator hoses going from top to bottom. I notice some people orient it where the hoses sit at the bottom...I was wondering if this makes a difference in temps?

Had to laugh here...


----------



## Carfanatic

I finally got my 200+ hours of cure time on my AS5! VERY happy with my results now.

Of course H50 with two GT 1850rpm fans two 25mm shrouds. I have a stable OC of 3.8(can't seem to get it back to 4.0 stable). 22C ambient, Vcore 1.425, running Prime95 In-place large FFTs(supposed maximum heat) my max is now 36C ran it for an hour. My idle is 24C(not that idle temps really matter).


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pez*


Had mine for a while guys, but curious, I have mine with it oriented with the radiator hoses going from top to bottom. I notice some people orient it where the hoses sit at the bottom...I was wondering if this makes a difference in temps?


No difference at all when I did it.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Have you tried it..?

Yes.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
I finally got my 200+ hours of cure time on my AS5! VERY happy with my results now.

Of course H50 with two GT 1850rpm fans two 25mm shrouds. I have a stable OC of 3.8(can't seem to get it back to 4.0 stable). 22C ambient, Vcore 1.425, running Prime95 In-place large FFTs(supposed maximum heat) my max is now 36C ran it for an hour. My idle is 24C(not that idle temps really matter).









that's pretty good bro, your ambient there helps allot


----------



## Ceadderman

And?

You bust my chops for giving information, I'm busting yours right back for giving none.







lol

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Yes.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


And?

You bust my chops for giving information, I'm busting yours right back for giving none.







lol

~Ceadder










Yes I tried right side up and upside down.








Front intake in drive bays.
No difference that I could quantify. Temps were the same for me.


----------



## TweakerNoob

Hey everyone struggling with 6-32 bolts for fan/shroud combos, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. all carry 6-32 "all thread" in 3 foot lengths. I am still doing rough in on my build but I used the all thread and some 6-32 nickle plated caps to build a TK-122/RAD/shroud/TK-122. The shroud side threads ended up being 3.75"/95.25mm long.

Take care in measuring though, there is less than 5mm of space for excess threads b4 it hits the rad fins.


----------



## pieisgood2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TweakerNoob*


Hey everyone struggling with 6-32 bolts for fan/shroud combos, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. all carry 6-32 "all thread" in 3 *foot* lengths. I am still doing rough in on my build but I used the all thread and some 6-32 nickle plated caps to build a TK-122/RAD/shroud/TK-122. The shroud side threads ended up being 3.75"/95.25mm long.

Take care in measuring though, there is less than 5mm of space for excess threads b4 it hits the rad fins.


it doesn't matter if it's completely threaded, that is what i'm using. i think your problem is the 3 feet lol.


----------



## pmrballer123

add me


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pieisgood2*


it doesn't matter if it's completely threaded, that is what i'm using. i think your problem is the 3 feet lol.


what? he just gave an option to get proper sized bolts, since lowes only sells, 1.25,1.5,2,and 3 inch 6-32's


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


that's pretty good bro, your ambient there helps allot


Yes I am very surprised at my temps now I was getting such high ones before(63C) I thought maybe I had a bad H50. Then I got new fans and shrouds and replaced the stock TIM now I don''t have to worry one bit.

I am actually very surprised at my idle temps only 1-2C above my ambient that's crazy.

What's your temps if I may ask since we have the same CPU?


----------



## sendblink23

okay I'm giving up on doing overlockings, after yesterdays tests... today in the morning woooopss the system BSOD on me LOL when to stock for a bit...

so a few minutes ago changed my settings etc... instead of using FSB, went to my old ways just simply cpu multiplier & cpu voltage

4.01Ghz (20 x 201) 1.47v - hahaha this got way too hot 61c on 5 tests runs at maximum with Intel's Burn test









F'it I'm gonna stay stock... I don't want to shorten the life of this cpu(heehee I don't want to RMA again after already getting this RMA return yesterday lol)


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Yes I am very surprised at my temps now I was getting such high ones before(63C) I thought maybe I had a bad H50. Then I got new fans and shrouds and replaced the stock TIM now I don''t have to worry one bit.

I am actually very surprised at my idle temps only 1-2C above my ambient that's crazy.

What's your temps if I may ask since we have the same CPU?

Yesterday was nice today the cpu was angry at me lol
I was seeing 29c idle & 39c load @ 3.92Ghz (224 x 17.5) 1.38v.... then it BSOD today at me... so now tested 4.01Ghz you can see above my post... went way hotter... so I'll stick back at stock.

A couple of months ago with another board I was fine with 4.21ghz (200 x 21) 1.48v, that one actually idle was the same 29c but max load was 54c... so I think its my mobo not letting me overclock much (I tested again the same settings it BSOD after 2 minutes in Intel's burn test, i wasn't going to give more voltage since duhh much more hotter) & well something is creating extra heat today (maybe the ambient, it does feel a bit hotter outside than yesterday)

so yeah... wte... your ambient helps you allot more, compared to mines which is worse, I'm doing these tests with my Air Conditioner directly hitting my computer.


----------



## Killhouse

If you can keep it below 62 it's technically fine









I got to 3.8 but my temps were around 58 so I also decided to go back to stock too. Maybe when winter comes around we can try again!


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
Yesterday was nice today the cpu was angry at me lol
I was seeing 29c idle & 39c load @ 3.92Ghz (224 x 17.5) 1.38v.... then it BSOD today at me... so now tested 4.01Ghz you can see above my post... went way hotter... so I'll stick back at stock.

A couple of months ago with another board I was fine with 4.21ghz (200 x 21) 1.48v, that one actually idle was the same 29c but max load was 54c... so I think its my mobo not letting me overclock much (I tested again the same settings it BSOD after 2 minutes in Intel's burn test, i wasn't going to give more voltage since duhh much more hotter) & well something is creating extra heat today (maybe the ambient, it does feel a bit hotter outside than yesterday)

so yeah... wte... your ambient helps you allot more, compared to mines which is worse, I'm doing these tests with my Air Conditioner directly hitting my computer.

if it BSOD'd at @ 3.92 why would you even try 4.01? I currently run at 3.9 (18.5x211) with 1.48v and cannot go higher without BSOD.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
Yesterday was nice today the cpu was angry at me lol
I was seeing 29c idle & 39c load @ 3.92Ghz (224 x 17.5) 1.38v.... then it BSOD today at me... so now tested 4.01Ghz you can see above my post... went way hotter... so I'll stick back at stock.

A couple of months ago with another board I was fine with 4.21ghz (200 x 21) 1.48v, that one actually idle was the same 29c but max load was 54c... so I think its my mobo not letting me overclock much (I tested again the same settings it BSOD after 2 minutes in Intel's burn test, i wasn't going to give more voltage since duhh much more hotter) & well something is creating extra heat today (maybe the ambient, it does feel a bit hotter outside than yesterday)

so yeah... wte... your ambient helps you allot more, compared to mines which is worse, I'm doing these tests with my Air Conditioner directly hitting my computer.

I have AC but not even in the same room as the computer still maintain the constant 72F temps. I always run my computers 24/7 but even non OC my temps where too high for my liking so I wasn't running it 24/7 which is why I got the H50. Now that my temps are under control I won't worry about running it as much as I want. Personally with the 965 I wouldn't run it over 55C if your running it 24/7 like me. I am happy with my 3.8 OC not going to mess with it anymore too many BSOD trying to go higher.


----------



## Timid

Made a thread for this but no answers so I guess I'll ask here.

Going to build my new system soon so I just want to make sure if this is the best fan setup for maximum cooling. The case I'm using is the CM haf 922 and a H50 cooler. I plan to get side fans for the case but I don't know if it's better to get one 200mm fan or 2 120mms to put on the side.

Front fan - intake
Side fan(s) - intake
Top fan - exhaust
Rear fans (push-pull with radiator) - exhaust

I read you should install push pull as intake but I figured since the side fan is blowing cool air onto the motherboard and cpu anyway that it'd be more efficient have the rear as exhaust. Or should I just make that intake also and only have the top as exhaust? And should I get one 200m or 2 120mm fans for the side panel?


----------



## jbl2226h

Hello, you can add me too


----------



## xmisery

@jbl2226h: Very sexy build!!!


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Timid* 
Made a thread for this but no answers so I guess I'll ask here.

Going to build my new system soon so I just want to make sure if this is the best fan setup for maximum cooling. The case I'm using is the CM haf 922 and a H50 cooler. I plan to get side fans for the case but I don't know if it's better to get one 200mm fan or 2 120mms to put on the side.

Front fan - intake
Side fan(s) - intake
Top fan - exhaust
Rear fans (push-pull with radiator) - exhaust

I read you should install push pull as intake but I figured since the side fan is blowing cool air onto the motherboard and cpu anyway that it'd be more efficient have the rear as exhaust. Or should I just make that intake also and only have the top as exhaust? And should I get one 200m or 2 120mm fans for the side panel?

go 120, its more cool air for the h50 to suck in, aand keep the h50 in exhaust

@jbl2226h: your build made me need to change my pants....


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TweakerNoob* 
How did you tap the threaded ears on the rad? Did you bend the ears out away from the rad? I just tried tonight to run a 6-32 tap through to clean out a bad thread but there is not enough space between the ear and the rad fins to get the tap in far enough.

A 6-32 thumb screw ran through did the trick but just curious what you did.

I didn't bend anything
The tap i had was small, so i just ran it through by hand, with the help of pliers (in some, then back, in some more then back) until the point went through to almost touching the rad... in and out a bit more (teehee obviously) and viola, tapped to M4

Quote:


Originally Posted by *superhead91* 
You need 6-32 screws, and the ones that came with the H50 are too short to attach Ultra Kazes to the rad, if that's what you're asking.

Or you can do what i said above and get a tap and die for whatever thread you want.
I simply could not find any source for 6-32 bolts long enough for fans and shrouds locally, so i sourced a tap and a die for M4 thread bolts (fine thread), got some M4 bolts and cut them to length, ran the die over them and bobs you're mothers brother.

Hope that helps.


----------



## Sad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Finaly got all the kit.










The Kit all layed out ready.










Leak testing with the Res's stock barbs.










Before the UV dye went in.










After the Dye.

A poor video of adding the Dye,

YouTube- Adding UV dye to my Watercooling System

As you can see the bottow pipe coming off the Res is a little long so i will be re-routing it and cutting it down abit.

Better photo's tomorrow, more Dye and adding the Ultra Kaze 3000 back as a push.

What do you guys think?

whered you get that kit?


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *OutOfBalanceOX* 
if it BSOD'd at @ 3.92 why would you even try 4.01? I currently run at 3.9 (18.5x211) with 1.48v and cannot go higher without BSOD.

Because that was with FSB (fsb overclocks the whole system)

Also if you didn't see or read correctly at 4.01Ghz it did not BSOD it was stable perfectly(did a stress test, issue a bit too hot), the 3.92ghz was not stable(I did not run a stress test, I only tested regular load: Crysis, Dirt 2, GTA4 & rendering a 1 hour hd video in Sony Vegas - it did the BSOD after I started actual stress test).

If you just do cpu multiplier & voltage alone the system can still run a bit more stable with these Black Editions and previously I have already been on 4.21Ghz but that was on another board at same voltage as 4ghz that I just tested(I tried 4.21Ghz with same voltage on this board and it BSOD after 2 minutes in the stress test, even if it could handle playing games - I was not going to up the voltage to 1.5).

If you didn't notice my 3.9 was with stock voltage 1.38, if I were to stable it after that BSOD I'd just needed to change voltages for each NB, SB & CPU.. so I didn't wanted to with mess it since last times I've messed with it, I haven't seen post after saving settings & had to Cleared CMOS to rest the bios.

@ Killhouse

hehehe okay so yeah it would be stable at 61c, but issue.... if I ran this without the AC that chip will get on fire LOL

I tried running it without the AC, a regular load (surfing the web & using photoshop cs5) that hit 48c ... so yeah I got scared, did not like my temps at all. I tend to prefer if I overclock that my max should be lower than 54c - since I do not have Winter here at PR lol well my ambient temps will never change & my winter is just my rooms AC daily - So Stock its gonna stay my CPU


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jbl2226h* 
Hello, you can add me too

































that looks so professional... I want it!


----------



## Nakattk

Ok I have the Haf X and I want to do intake with Push > Shroud > Rad > Shroud > Pull into case. Is this the way it's usually done? I am going to top mount it in my extra fan slot.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Nakattk* 
Ok I have the Haf X and I want to do intake with Push > Shroud > Rad > Shroud > Pull into case. Is this the way it's usually done? I am going to top mount it in my extra fan slot.

If intake, it will be better to have the H50 in the back... If you are doing exhaust, it can be on top or back.

Your configuration is correct


----------



## Ceadderman

*Edit* NVM I got it wrong.









So lemme get this straight...

You want to run FOUR 230mm fans up top and include shrouds(I'm going to assume that you're gutting stock fans for this) in the top two spots of your X?

Is that right?









I don't think that's happening. The stock 230mm fans are 30mm in depth. So just ONE setup is going to be 90mm before you add anything else to the system. Maybe a shroud above the stock fan allowing that fan to push more air. But Not Push/Pull system with a shroud added to the mizx. Though you could mate two more 230s' on top. But that would defeat the purpose of having the included filters. Not to mention that you'd have to get grills to add to them being that they will be vulnerable to exterior hazards.

Now, I apologize if I have you read wrong. But that's what I'm getting from this post.

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Nakattk* 
Ok I have the Haf X and I want to do intake with Push > Shroud > Rad > Shroud > Pull into case. Is this the way it's usually done? I am going to top mount it in my extra fan slot.


----------



## sendblink23

ok, decided to burn a little more, tried again the same settings i had yesterday but instead of multiplier at 17.5.. just left it at 17 so now its @ 3.8 (224 x 17) 1.38v

This did survive stress test at maximum and max load was 51c:









I can keep this since 17.5 which is 3.92ghz was not stable, and if I up the voltage to stable it.. pretty certain it will get way hotter... I prefer to keep it at stock voltage since its much cooler... this is AC testing, without AC its like 5 - 8c difference so I can could handle this.


----------



## Nakattk

Does this look to close for comfort? Do you think it will hurt anything with my push fan this close to my dvd drive? I am doing push pull with shrouds top mount in a HAF X. It fits very nicely just didn't know if this is too close.

Also, can you add me to the club. There will be more pics when all is complete!


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Nakattk* 
Does this look to close for comfort? Do you think it will hurt anything with my push fan this close to my dvd drive? I am doing push pull with shrouds top mount in a HAF X. It fits very nicely just didn't know if this is too close.

Also, can you add me to the club. There will be more pics when all is complete!









































hmm the pictures are not working

But me imagining being close to the DVD drive that won't bother at all.


----------



## Nakattk

I wonder why the pics dont work. I see them on my end. Eithe way they are in my album. I uploaded them from there. Did I do it wrong?


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Nakattk* 
I wonder why the pics dont work. I see them on my end. Eithe way they are in my album. I uploaded them from there. Did I do it wrong?

I even clicked your user name... and I can't find your album, maybe simply just upload them anywhere else ( http://imageshack.us or http://photobucket.com) & post the link of them here


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Apparently some people have and they say that it makes no difference.

I say doing it should promote better pump health.

I'm not going to be testing the theory of better cooling with the fittings in either location because quite frankly what's 1 degree temp difference for me after I've lapped the CPU and the Pump? When it's running I get 34c @ idle. The only testing I'm going to be doing at this point is my Pusher/Shroud/Rad/Puller setup.







lol

If there is a question of logic I guess the best source of information on the health of the pump already exists in the h2o forum.

~Ceadder










Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
No difference at all when I did it.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Yes.

Alright, thanks guys







.

I was going to do a shroud the other day between the rad and my push fan, but my screws that I bought are too short, lol. Ah, I may do it for that. My ambients stay hot while I'm at home for the summer, so it's nothing I can help really.


----------



## Nakattk

Ok tell me if they works now. I had it set to privite now its public.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nakattk*











Ok tell me if they works now. I had it set to privite now its public.


Heheh i have no clue maybe your profile is completely nuts... but I do Now see the album, but when i click it.. the images are blank hehehee

Do what I just mentioned just upload them somewhere else & post the links here

but anyways at least I can see the small tiny preview images (before clicking them) and yeah you can leave your H50 with the fan/shroud like that over above your dvd drives


----------



## Nakattk

Ok last try. What do you think? Sorry for soo many posts of this. Wont happen again first time posting pics.


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Nakattk* 


















Ok last try. What do you think? Sorry for soo many posts of this. Wont happen again first time posting pics.

it works.!


----------



## sendblink23

woot woot! much better

Now I want the pics afterwards.. your whole set up built


----------



## Nakattk

No problem might be a min though. I'm doing everything now cable managment and all. Here is my next questions. I have 5 fans all daisy chained together and will plug them all into a single molex on my power supply. Is this ok? Is this ok even if the fans all have differnet rpm ratings? I figure molex power is just all the way power and it won't matter, and each fan connected via the same connector will run at it's respective max speed.


----------



## scottath

flip the fan around.
make it push not pull - as its going against thermal flows (hot air rises....)


----------



## heyitsryan

Can I get a group add?


----------



## Ceadderman

Heyitsryan, you can actually add yourself as this group listing is a Google.doc.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *heyitsryan* 
Can I get a group add?


----------



## heyitsryan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Heyitsryan, you can actually add yourself as this group listing is a Google.doc.









~Ceadder









WOOPS! Sorry about that. Thanks for the tip!


----------



## Nakattk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottath*


flip the fan around.
make it push not pull - as its going against thermal flows (hot air rises....)


So I need to make it exhaust instead of intake? I figured it would be better to pull cool outside air through the rad and down into case, then other fans pull it out of case. You can't see it in the pic but I have a fan on top pulling air through the rad and another shroud.

Also, not to double post but.

I have 5 fans all daisy chained together and will plug them all into a single molex on my power supply. Is this ok? Is this ok even if the fans all have differnet rpm ratings? I figure molex power is just all the way power and it won't matter, and each fan connected via the same connector will run at it's respective max speed.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nakattk*


So I need to make it exhaust instead of intake? I figured it would be better to pull cool outside air through the rad and down into case, then other fans pull it out of case. You can't see it in the pic but I have a fan on top pulling air through the rad and another shroud.

Also, not to double post but.

I have 5 fans all daisy chained together and will plug them all into a single molex on my power supply. Is this ok? Is this ok even if the fans all have differnet rpm ratings? I figure molex power is just all the way power and it won't matter, and each fan connected via the same connector will run at it's respective max speed.


Hot air rises so if your radiator is on the top by pushing air down the hot air is still going to try and rise. you will get better flow fliping the setup, I am not sure as to how the rest of your case is or case temps to know how hot your case is, but usualy there is not a HUGE difference between using it as intake or exhaust unless you have a few of the new video cards cranking out some heat.

what fans? they will have a different amp rating for each, add them up and see if the current that it pulls is over what the line is rated for... i think mulex can do 10 amps or so.. dont quote me on that. so unless your fans pull more then that...


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


ok, decided to burn a little more, tried again the same settings i had yesterday but instead of multiplier at 17.5.. just left it at 17 so now its @ 3.8 (224 x 17) 1.38v

This did survive stress test at maximum and max load was 51c:









I can keep this since 17.5 which is 3.92ghz was not stable, and if I up the voltage to stable it.. pretty certain it will get way hotter... I prefer to keep it at stock voltage since its much cooler... this is AC testing, without AC its like 5 - 8c difference so I can could handle this.


3.8 ghz and a NB of 2600 mhz is dead simple at stock voltage. After that tighten the timmings on the mem as much as possible. With my set-up, at 20 C ambient temp, my H50 keeps it at about 26 C idle and about 48 C max temp. If I ramp up to 4.0 Ghz I need 1.5 volts to keep it stable but max temps never go above 53 C which is perfectly fine (I use at least 3 hrs of prime 95 blended test to check for stability). IMHO anything under 55 C will be just fine. Let me know if you have any overclocking/temp related questions for the 965 C3.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Since I'm using my push/pull as exhaust on the rear where should the shroud go?


----------



## Magus2727

most people like having the shroud on the intake. I think that also provides the best results.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
Let me know if you have any overclocking/temp related questions for the 965 C3.









Right now I have mine just using the multiplier to x19 and I did have to change vcore to 1.425 when default/auto had it set at 1.4. About 3 months ago I did have it at x20 and 1.5 vcore but it was too hot so I went back to stock. When I set it at that now it doesn't work right when I start P95 it BSODs. I don't want to go too high on my vcore and fry the chip any suggestions now that I have a very good temps with the H50?


----------



## DreadPirateJim

Hi all.

Jim C. from Corsair here. There weren't any beard colors left for my forum name, so I chose this one. I'll be sure to pass it on when I retire.

I just wanted to let you know that the overclock.net H50 Owner's Club was highlighted on the Corsair Facebook page today. Check it out here.

On behalf of Corsair, I'd like to thank all of you for choosing the H50 and for all of the cool stuff you've done here. We really do appreciate it.

-=> Jim


----------



## AdvanSuper

Haha nice!


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DreadPirateJim*


Hi all.

Jim C. from Corsair here. There weren't any beard colors left for my forum name, so I chose this one. I'll be sure to pass it on when I retire.

I just wanted to let you know that the overclock.net H50 Owner's Club was highlighted on the Corsair Facebook page today. Check it out here.

On behalf of Corsair, I'd like to thank all of you for choosing the H50 and for all of the cool stuff you've done here. We really do appreciate it.

-=> Jim


Nice! It's awesome to see that kinda recognition. You should go about getting the credentials to be an OCN Hardware Rep!


----------



## nikbear

Anybody been getting strange noises from their H50 pump??
Had my H50 for about 9 months now and up until recently its worked flawless and quiet,but now on start up I sometimes get a strange 'whine' sound which seems to come from the pump??? The sound goes away after about 10 seconds







Its not affecting performance at all!








I live in the UK so I asked Corsair about it and they said send it back to us for a replacement,but if its not such a problem Im loathe to package it up and send it back to the US,the cost will be steep and I'll be 'Offline' till it comes back








Whats the considered opinion


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nikbear* 
Anybody been getting strange noises from their H50 pump??
Had my H50 for about 9 months now and up until recently its worked flawless and quiet,but now on start up I sometimes get a strange 'whine' sound which seems to come from the pump??? The sound goes away after about 10 seconds







Its not affecting performance at all!








I live in the UK so I asked Corsair about it and they said send it back to us for a replacement,but if its not such a problem Im loathe to package it up and send it back to the US,the cost will be steep and I'll be 'Offline' till it comes back








Whats the considered opinion
















No stock cooler lying around? You don't have a system posted so can't suggest a cheap one to buy....

If you don't have an extra cooler I would buy a cheapo one made for your cpu and put it on temporarily and then RMA the H50 back to Corsair see if they might pay for shipping too.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice.

Thanks to Jim here, I got turned on to a sweet product that was at the latest Computex event...







YouTube- Computex 2010 :: Cool your RAM with the Corsair Airflow Pro
Oh and the review shows the H50 as well. Doesn't say anything about it. Though I did find it interesting that the fittings are at the bottom.







lol

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *DreadPirateJim* 
Hi all.

Jim C. from Corsair here. There weren't any beard colors left for my forum name, so I chose this one. I'll be sure to pass it on when I retire.

I just wanted to let you know that the overclock.net H50 Owner's Club was highlighted on the Corsair Facebook page today. Check it out here.

On behalf of Corsair, I'd like to thank all of you for choosing the H50 and for all of the cool stuff you've done here. We really do appreciate it.

-=> Jim


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DreadPirateJim* 
Hi all.

Jim C. from Corsair here. There weren't any beard colors left for my forum name, so I chose this one. I'll be sure to pass it on when I retire.

I just wanted to let you know that the overclock.net H50 Owner's Club was highlighted on the Corsair Facebook page today. Check it out here.

On behalf of Corsair, I'd like to thank all of you for choosing the H50 and for all of the cool stuff you've done here. We really do appreciate it.

-=> Jim

Woot Wooot!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
3.8 ghz and a NB of 2600 mhz is dead simple at stock voltage. After that tighten the timmings on the mem as much as possible. With my set-up, at 20 C ambient temp, my H50 keeps it at about 26 C idle and about 48 C max temp. If I ramp up to 4.0 Ghz I need 1.5 volts to keep it stable but max temps never go above 53 C which is perfectly fine (I use at least 3 hrs of prime 95 blended test to check for stability). IMHO anything under 55 C will be just fine. Let me know if you have any overclocking/temp related questions for the 965 C3.









I've done stable 4.21ghz a couple of months ago on another board
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1017127
CPU @ 4.21Ghz (200 x 21 - 1.48v) With a Crappy Codegen 550w *STABLE*
If you haven't notice that is a Pentium 4 Power Supply - its not suppose to handle these chips... even worse these overclocks. But yeah that power Supply got crippled after a few weeks running that clock so I went back to stock... a month later it died on me(that chunk of crap went through a warzone). Do not compare it to my bottom signature CPU-Z(I upped the voltage way too high), that was only to have a valid of the latest CPU-Z and its also from the other mobo.

I've pushed more than enough 2 of my 965's I've tested (If I go higher I would need actual full custom water cooling)... a few posts before I made Stable 4ghz at 1.47v not 1.5v in other words I can run it stable on a less voltage than yours.... but here is the catch... where I live the ambient temps is too hot, so I can't stay on those overclocks - on 4.0ghz it went up to 61c and that is Air Conditioner directly hitting my computer case & using 1.47v - so you can imagine how my ambients are already with AC - then try to imagine the Ambients without AC running the overclock, my chip will fry currently lol. To be honest I'm not sure what happened months ago that I could run 4.21Ghz here where I live because the temps are always the same no matter the season it is.... don't forget I'm running 8gb of rams my Mhz on them are at its lowest 800mhz (if you set it at your lowest you can be stable at higher cpu clocks, now if you were to stable at the actual MHz your ram handles then yes its about timings / voltages / NB to handle a higher cpu clock)

You do not have to explain or help me out I obviously know about the 2600 on NB... I've burned enough to know a whole bunch about 965's, I've actually gotten to boot 4.41ghz but obviously way too hot on idle and for me since I only had to use 1.52v - funniest thing was it only lasted on Windows for about 20 minutes or so... obviously I was not going to run any stress test on it since I knew I won't be able to stable it or even run my system on it(or even less try to increase the voltage) I just wanted to see if I can boot that high.... So, in the near future I might go full water cooling... then I will go and push it that far again.

Then again this is just doing CPU multiplier & CPU voltage.. if I did FSB on it... I would be through hell trying to stable them at such overclocks... like right now.. NO a *big* NO-NO... I can't do those such overclocks anymore because of Temps... and if you read posts earlier of mine I received this RMA of this 965 just 2 days ago.. so I won't want to kill it that early.... that last overclock was to see how much I could handle stable on stock voltage with FSB - It does not mean I will be using it 24/7 or even mean its the highest stable I've gotten LOL I've achieved way higher.... anyways I will go back to stock during this weekend.

Thanks anyways, I'm already going to move to a 1090t next month - I've read it does handle 4.21ghz at a low voltage of 1.42 - 1.45... that will be more of my taste.


----------



## Ceadderman

Did you move your system recently?









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *nikbear* 
Anybody been getting strange noises from their H50 pump??
Had my H50 for about 9 months now and up until recently its worked flawless and quiet,but now on start up I sometimes get a strange 'whine' sound which seems to come from the pump??? The sound goes away after about 10 seconds







Its not affecting performance at all!








I live in the UK so I asked Corsair about it and they said send it back to us for a replacement,but if its not such a problem Im loathe to package it up and send it back to the US,the cost will be steep and I'll be 'Offline' till it comes back








Whats the considered opinion


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nikbear* 
Anybody been getting strange noises from their H50 pump??
Had my H50 for about 9 months now and up until recently its worked flawless and quiet,but now on start up I sometimes get a strange 'whine' sound which seems to come from the pump??? The sound goes away after about 10 seconds







Its not affecting performance at all!








I live in the UK so I asked Corsair about it and they said send it back to us for a replacement,but if its not such a problem Im loathe to package it up and send it back to the US,the cost will be steep and I'll be 'Offline' till it comes back








Whats the considered opinion
















Did you test taking out the H50 from your case & powering up to see if the sound is clearly coming from the pump & not anywhere else? While the RMA from corsair "I'll be 'Offline' till it comes back







", just put back your CPU stock cooler and you won't be offline.


----------



## Ceadderman

I got a vid that I think should be posted to the OP. It shows what the temp for an i7 should be. This guy compares the H50 to a stock cooler, a Cooler Master V8 and a Swiftech h2o system using an EK CPU block. When he takes it to monitor view you'll see the temps in the Red Boxes in the toolbar.








YouTube- Corsair H50

Enjoy.









~Ceadder


----------



## BorNej

Try Scythe slipstream 110cfm @1900prm 37dba for push pull works great.


----------



## nikbear

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


No stock cooler lying around? You don't have a system posted so can't suggest a cheap one to buy....

If you don't have an extra cooler I would buy a cheapo one made for your cpu and put it on temporarily and then RMA the H50 back to Corsair see if they might pay for shipping too.


Im afraid I gave the stock cooler away to a friend to use








Didn't think I'd be needing it again







Typical!
The CPU is an AMD Quad 9950 Black Series which as you know runs bloody hot!







Hence me getting the H50








Suppose I'll have to bite the bullet and get a cheap'ish air cooler to tide me over while I send my H50 back


----------



## PROLiTE

I can trade my coolermaster v8 to an h50 should i do it?


----------



## nikbear

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Did you move your system recently?









~Ceadder










It was moved ever so slightly ,due to a room move,could that cause this problem








Im sitting next to it now and its running like a dream,just the case fans quietly humming.
Just that 10 seconds of noise at start-up.....







Once its gone you never hear it again all day,very strange







Whats even worse is it doesn't even do it all the time???? 
I can go days without hearing it then,switch on........and its back!!???Bizarre!?


----------



## scottath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BorNej*


Try Scythe slipstream 110cfm @1900prm 37dba for push pull works great.


Not really.
Slipstreams fail for static pressure so are not designed for radiators/tight finned heatsinks etc.
Also - due to ^^ they just generally suck for any application other than intake/exhuast fans.

I have one of these fans (the 110cfm one) and i believe my Scythe Ultra Kaze 2000rpm cools better/quieter than it


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nikbear*


Im afraid I gave the stock cooler away to a friend to use








Didn't think I'd be needing it again







Typical!
The CPU is an AMD Quad 9950 Black Series which as you know runs bloody hot!







Hence me getting the H50








Suppose I'll have to bite the bullet and get a cheap'ish air cooler to tide me over while I send my H50 back










I don't know if there is a place that would sell them where you are but this is a cheap AM3 cooler that would tide you over for sure. Maybe you can find a seller for you for around the same price. http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...0&sku=S19-3000


----------



## Ceadderman

I would do it. But be careful, nobody I know would offer the H50 in trade for the V8. The V8 is just slightly better than the stock cooler imho.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PROLiTE*


I can trade my coolermaster v8 to an h50 should i do it?


It could be that even though slightly moved(not doubting your handling skills) that it sloshed a bit and air got in the loop. Try tapping on the hose with a pencil and see how that fares. It may be a temporary issue that works itself out too.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *nikbear*


It was moved ever so slightly ,due to a room move,could that cause this problem








Im sitting next to it now and its running like a dream,just the case fans quietly humming.
Just that 10 seconds of noise at start-up.....







Once its gone you never hear it again all day,very strange







Whats even worse is it doesn't even do it all the time???? 
I can go days without hearing it then,switch on........and its back!!???Bizarre!?


----------



## Lenster

First post here after reading up to page 850 (whew!).
I will purchase an H50 this weekend (just got a BB gift card for Father's day).
I have decided to go with the Fan-Shroud-RAD-Shroud-Fan config and I have two choices.
My Case is an ANTEC P182. I have an intake fan in the mid case mount in the front and I have modded the top 3 5.25 bays to mount a second 120MM fan.

I could remove the rear exhaust fan screen and mount the H50 fan assembly there as exhaust with fan-shroud outside the case and the rad-shroud-fan inside. I would go exhaust because of heat from GPU exhaust below the fan.
Or,
I could mount the whole fan shroud rad assembly in the front 5.25 bays where I currently have a 120mm intake fan. I would mount this as intake. I like the second idea better, but here is my question / concern: the ANTC P182 has a door which I prefer to keep closed which means that air is drawn in thru the vents along side either side of the door. Would that be enough intake to supply the fan /rad assembly?

BTW, this is replacing a TRUE120 on a Q9650 OC'd to 3.6
It runs 41,41,38,36 idle and
70,70,68,65 after 10 Min of OCCT Linpack

I don't expect much if any improvement, but I like the look of an emptier case.
Thanks and I will you know when it is done

Len


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lenster*


First post here after reading up to page 850 (whew!). 
I will purchase an H50 this weekend (just got a BB gift card for Father's day).
I have decided to go with the Fan-Shroud-RAD-Shroud-Fan config and I have two choices.
My Case is an ANTEC P182. I have an intake fan in the mid case mount in the front and I have modded the top 3 5.25 bays to mount a second 120MM fan.

I could remove the rear exhaust fan screen and mount the H50 fan assembly there as exhaust with fan-shroud outside the case and the rad-shroud-fan inside. I would go exhaust because of heat from GPU exhaust below the fan.
Or,
I could mount the whole fan shroud rad assembly in the front 5.25 bays where I currently have a 120mm intake fan. I would mount this as intake. I like the second idea better, but here is my question / concern: the ANTC P182 has a door which I prefer to keep closed which means that air is drawn in thru the vents along side either side of the door. Would that be enough intake to supply the fan /rad assembly?

BTW, this is replacing a TRUE120 on a Q9650 OC'd to 3.6
It runs 41,41,38,36 idle and
70,70,68,65 after 10 Min of OCCT Linpack

I don't expect much if any improvement, but I like the look of an emptier case.
Thanks and I will you know when it is done

Len


As long as nothing is directly blocking the air flowing from the fan>shroud>radiator then you should be fine. Most people that mount it in the front though have cases that are already setup for front intake fans like mine it even has built in dust filters. I would try both options see what works best for you. If the front is too restrictive on the air flow it may be better to mount it as exhaust.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottath*


Not really.
Slipstreams fail for static pressure so are not designed for radiators/tight finned heatsinks etc.
Also - due to ^^ they just generally suck for any application other than intake/exhuast fans.

I have one of these fans (the 110cfm one) and i believe my Scythe Ultra Kaze 2000rpm cools better/quieter than it


I vote for the 2000 rpm Ultra Kaze as well. Best compromise between noise and cooling ability. For really quite I'd go for either GTs or S-Flex 1600 rpm.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


I vote for the 2000 rpm Ultra Kaze as well. Best compromise between noise and cooling ability. For really quite I'd go for either GTs or S-Flex 1600 rpm.


If your going Scythe GT's you want the 1850rpm not 1600


----------



## Nakattk

What header do I plug the pump into? All of my fans are going to be on molex, so all fan headers are fare game. I have the ASUS P6X58D-E mobo.

Also, Ho tight do you have to screw the pump down. I did it untill I was no longer able to move it around at all. But I didn't tighten untill the screws stopped.


----------



## Lune

Is it worth it getting a H50 for my old i7 975EE (OC 4.2)? I don't wanna air/stock cool it ;x

What would the tempratures be like?


----------



## cmeeks

Got ahold of an h50... actually, my wife surprised me with it!

Decided to install it with the single included fan for now - exhausting air out the back. Idle temps are a little higher but the fan is only at 600 rpm right now. Load temps are a good 10C lower than my Scythe Zipang (with fan at full speed of course). Will try push/pull soon and maybe some better fans later.

I didn't use all the included hardware as the included squarish mounting bracket that goes behind the motherboard interfered with the soldered studs that stick through the board. It's also really flimsy so I didn't really like it to begin with. Instead I drove all over town this morning looking for one of the metal x-shaped mounting brackets - finally found one attached to a used heatsink at the goodwill computer center. I was able to mount the pump to the cpu using the typical metal screws with springs. I think this made for a much more solid mount and best of all, all the stress is on the mounting bracket instead of the motherboard.


----------



## Nakattk

Is it not good to put the foam tape from the bracket on the soldered studs on the motherboard back becuse I just did it and havent turned it on yet.


----------



## sendblink23

@ cmeeks
"Decided to install it with the single included fan for now - exhausting air out the back. Idle temps are a little higher but the fan is only at 600 rpm right now. "

Come on rank that to its full speed!!!









OMG that huge fan on pictures 1, 3 & 4 holy sh&tz... that thing scared me lol


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nakattk*


Is it not good to put the foam tape from the bracket on the soldered studs on the motherboard back becuse I just did it and havent turned it on yet.


I think it would be fine - the bracket is flimsy enough it should just flex over them if they're too tall as long as they are not too close to any of the 4 mounting points. I nearly went that route but I have to over engineer everything. I mainly went with the metal mounting bracket because unlike the motherboard, it won't flex and relieve some of the pressure on the cpu.


----------



## Nakattk

I mean I put the foam tape that attaches to the back bracket on top of a row of solder points on the back.


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nakattk*


I mean I put the foam tape that attaches to the back bracket on top of a row of solder points on the back.


Yeah, should be fine - that's what I was going to do.


----------



## Nakattk

Do I tighten the screws untill the pump doesnt move around, or do I tighten untill the screws wont turn anymore?


----------



## metroidfreak

Go clockwise at every screw turn it 3-4 times, then go to the next. Keep doing it until they are just tightened to the point that they wont anymore.


----------



## Nakattk

OK, the pump feels like its on tight, but the screws will still turn. I have a phobia of overtightening. Once I over torqued a bolt on my throdle body too much and broke it in half. I don't want to break my board lol.


----------



## metroidfreak

Keep going slowly if you dont feel safe. Mine felt the same way. They will tighten down eventually. It seems lke it takes a while, but if your temps are fine, then keep it how it is if you want. I'd say tighten it a little more though.


----------



## Nakattk

I tightend them to a snug feeling, I will see how that does if I have problems I will try tightening them more. Thanks for the info and support. First build anxiety


----------



## AdvanSuper

So I went and turned my two top 140mm fans into intake fans and the rad is in exhaust on the rear and temps went down 1-3c. Should I keep things this way? Video card temps are roughly the same so are mobo temps.


----------



## Mr_scary

Antec 1200 
- Front mounted with 2 Antec 120MM 80cfm fans 
1 just behind the radiator, the other in the stock position on the front. 
both are Push..


----------



## AdvanSuper

I envy your system lol.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sad* 
whered you get that kit?

From WaterCooling UK.


----------



## sendblink23

@ 
Quote:



WillHemmens
From WaterCooling UK.


Any specific name for that Kit (or post the direct link for the exact page of it), I want to buy it









Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


So I went and turned my two top 140mm fans into intake fans and the rad is in exhaust on the rear and temps went down 1-3c. Should I keep things this way? Video card temps are roughly the same so are mobo temps.


I actually have it that way.... but because I have my AC directly hitting above my computer case(I get a big drop)... if it wasn't turned on.. my ambients are warmer then the inside of my case... so in that case I do need to change them to exhaust the top fans.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


@

Any specific name for that Kit (or post the direct link for the exact page of it), I want to buy it









I actually have it that way.... but because I have my AC directly hitting above my computer case(I get a big drop)... if it wasn't turned on.. my ambients are warmer then the inside of my case... so in that case I do need to change them to exhaust the top fans.


Yeah my AC somewhat shoots onto the case it's just a pain switching fans around and constantly unscrewing and screwing them back in.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Yeah my AC somewhat shoots onto the case it's just a pain switching fans around and constantly unscrewing and screwing them back in.


ehehe yeah i hate that... I'm gonna try and find some nut locks.. the type you press a button to release or lock.. so that way it doesn't need any *screw or unscrew when switching


----------



## AdvanSuper

Something like this would even be easier just need a longer thread


----------



## AdvanSuper

I think that's what I'm gonna try and do is go to the hardware store and get some of those.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


I think that's what I'm gonna try and do is go to the hardware store and get some of those.


yeah thats a good one... screws with many unscrews get scraped(i have no clue how to call that in english lol), those ones you've shown will last forever lol


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


yeah thats a good one... screws with many unscrews get scraped(i have no clue how to call that in english lol), those ones you've shown will last forever lol


I guess you can say wear and tear lol. And yeah the nut and screw combo should be easier and convenient.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


From WaterCooling UK.


Aye ive been looking aswel, did you buy the individual parts or as a complete kit ? I think it is about time I modded my H50 aswel tbh!


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*


Aye ive been looking aswel, did you buy the individual parts or as a complete kit ? I think it is about time I modded my H50 aswel tbh!


Mod the H50? Really? Let's see. You have to get fittings, hose, reservoir and a rad if you are to see a true cooling improvement.

To step-up to a custom loop you add a real pump and a real cpu block. Yes it's more money, but it's money well spent, imo.

I quoted you but I'm not picking you, it's just a general comment to would be modders.


----------



## Lune

Can you fellas give me an answer thanks http://www.overclock.net/9812521-post10460.html


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Is it worth it getting a H50 for my old i7 975EE (OC 4.2)? I don't wanna air/stock cool it ;x

What would the tempratures be like?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *ardentx*


Hey guys,

I just swapped out my 975 for my 920 to see the difference in temps. My 975 @ 1.28v and 4.0GHz used to run with a max of 65c and a idle of about 36. I have just put my 920 in at stock and it reaches the high 80s on load and mid 40s at idle?


Hope this helps, definetely worth it over stock cooler!


----------



## Lune

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Hope this helps, definetely worth it over stock cooler!


thx


----------



## Ikthus

Hey guys I'm trying to attach shrouds onto the rad but I can't find screws long enough to do it. I've been looking for 6/32 2 1/4 " screws but the only place I could find you have to order it and buy in bulk.

How do you guys attach shrouds to your setup?


----------



## Ceadderman

What kind of vendors do you have in Ontario that are similar to a Lowe's?

I got 6-32s' in 3" length cause my local store (not so local actually







) didn't have anything in between 2 and 3". I'm in the process of getting mine cut down to roughly 2.12" in length. But that's because I'm using fan silencers to seal my Push/Pull unit.









As you can see here I'm going to use a double jam nut system.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ikthus* 
Hey guys I'm trying to attach shrouds onto the rad but I can't find screws long enough to do it. I've been looking for 6/32 2 1/4 " screws but the only place I could find you have to order it and buy in bulk.

How do you guys attach shrouds to your setup?


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ikthus* 
Hey guys I'm trying to attach shrouds onto the rad but I can't find screws long enough to do it. I've been looking for 6/32 2 1/4 " screws but the only place I could find you have to order it and buy in bulk.

How do you guys attach shrouds to your setup?

You can get those at Lowes. If you don't mind cutting them down you can get 3" toggle bolts at Canadian Tire.


----------



## ytsejam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ikthus* 
Hey guys I'm trying to attach shrouds onto the rad but I can't find screws long enough to do it. I've been looking for 6/32 2 1/4 " screws but the only place I could find you have to order it and buy in bulk.

How do you guys attach shrouds to your setup?

I use zip ties to put the whole thing together, including the fans.

Currently I have a push/pull intake setup on the front bay

my setup is fan2<rad<shroud<fan1

I only use regular fan screws to attach the first fan (fan1) into the bay fan adapter.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ikthus* 
Hey guys I'm trying to attach shrouds onto the rad but I can't find screws long enough to do it. I've been looking for 6/32 2 1/4 " screws but the only place I could find you have to order it and buy in bulk.

How do you guys attach shrouds to your setup?

I used 6-32 x 3/8" screws and put them through just the holes in the shrouds closest to the rad and it worked perfect.


----------



## TweakerNoob

Home Depot, Lowes and most hardware stores carry varrying lengths (1ft, 3ft, etc.) of 6-32 "all thread". It is just that, one length of 6-32 threads. Cut it to fit and use a finished cap or washer/nut on the end. You will generally find it standing up in a divided rack along with metal and aluminum stock. I am halfway through a second shroud assembly with 55mm fans and 32mm shrouds for my build using this stuff. It was the best (and only) option I found, but I needed longer than 3", which you should also be able to find at the big box hardware stores too.

FYI, good idea to have a small file and 6-32 die to clean up threads after cutting.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ikthus*


Hey guys I'm trying to attach shrouds onto the rad but I can't find screws long enough to do it. I've been looking for 6/32 2 1/4 " screws but the only place I could find you have to order it and buy in bulk.

How do you guys attach shrouds to your setup?


In the process? Pacing yourself?









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I'm in the process of getting mine cut down to roughly 2.12" in length.
~Ceadder


----------



## Nakattk

i just turned on my first build and my bios says my cpu temp is 35C idle or 94F. I'm using the H50 and am wondering if this sounds normal? Also I have the side panel off if that matters.


----------



## Sabis

Ok guys, JUST got my h50, and pretty sure I jacked something up. I read the instructions, had a friend help me mount it. i7 920, 4.0 ghz, it was stable and sub-80c even at load on my old Xigmatek 1283, but with the h50 I mounted it first as exhaust, and within 30 seconds of prime95 I was over 80c. Reversed the fan, made it an intake. Redid my thermal because I was an IDIOT and didn't know about the Shin Etsu and had wiped it clean for AS 5 (I fail at TIM, I hadn't checked any out for years, just stuck with what i knew) re-applied my AS 5, and it still hits over 80 within afew minutes. Any suggestions on what I can do?


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope. My MoBo is currently being RMA'd so I'm not in any hurry to get things finished. That and I'm currently painting my grills, thumblatches and HDD trays.

I've got most everything done, even HAF my PSU tray. The thumbscrew HAF is currently under the operational HX 850. Gonna let the other end cure before I pull the PSU long enough to swap out sides.

My lockring also got painted.










Part of what's holding me back is I sent two of the toggle bolts with my bro to have them shortened. Then when he gets back from work I'm gonna cleanup the threads, tape off enough thread to leave it clean for reassembly and spray the remaining satin black to match the case interior which I sprayed over the winter. "Pacing yourself"... good one.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *TweakerNoob*


In the process? Pacing yourself?


----------



## ytsejam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sabis* 
Ok guys, JUST got my h50, and pretty sure I jacked something up. I read the instructions, had a friend help me mount it. i7 920, 4.0 ghz, it was stable and sub-80c even at load on my old Xigmatek 1283, but with the h50 I mounted it first as exhaust, and within 30 seconds of prime95 I was over 80c. Reversed the fan, made it an intake. Redid my thermal because I was an IDIOT and didn't know about the Shin Etsu and had wiped it clean for AS 5 (I fail at TIM, I hadn't checked any out for years, just stuck with what i knew) re-applied my AS 5, and it still hits over 80 within afew minutes. Any suggestions on what I can do?

AS5 takes about 200 hours to cure.

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ml#post7083163

I also replaced the TIM when I got the H50. I knew It was a great TIM and all, but since I'm planning to lap my cpu and the H50, I just figured it would be a pain in the ass to remove that stuff when the time comes, so I replaced with AS5 as well. I'm done with this 200 hour cure bs. Just got an MX-3 and will use it after the lapping.

Anyway, even after the cure time I don't think you'll se a huge decrease in temps, you should get a second fan and go for a push/pull setup. Also, I think is a good idea to replace the fan for 2 with higher CFM and static pressure.

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...et-no-gts.html

btw, my temps are pretty high for a phenom II X4 - 37c idle 57c prime95 (6 hours) 64c LinX (1 hour). I'm really pissed with the LinX temperatures, since is 2c over the maximum recomended by AMD. I think it has something to do with my push/pull setup, since I'm using 2 Akasa Apache witch is only 1300 rpm. Besides the cpu lap, I'll replace the fans with 2 Sythe Ultra Kase (2000 or 3000).


----------



## Ceadderman

Ummm...

Lapped 955 BE
Lapped H50

Before Lapp? 48-52c +/- idle temp average stock cooler.
After Lapp w/ Shin-Etsu X23? 34c Idle temp average running 1 fan in exhaust. In abients of 75F +/-

I'm still waiting on my MoBo to come back before I get the skinny on a fully kitted out system. Of course that's going from a stock cooler to a Lapped setup. I might have held off the Lapping to get a more telling result but that's about a 14c drop in any case. I'm pretty sure I would only have seen about 10c drop had I not lapped it and left the stock G751 TIM in place.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *ytsejam*


AS5 takes about 200 hours to cure.

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ml#post7083163

I also replaced the TIM when I got the H50. I knew It was a reat TIM and all, but since I'm planning to lap my cpu and the H50, I just figured it would be a pain in the ass to remove that stuff when the time comes, so I replaced with AS5 as well. I'm done with this 200 hour cure bs. Just got an MX-3 and will use it after the lapping.

Anyway, even after the cure time I don't think you'll se a huge decrease in temps, you should get a second fan and go for a push/pull setup. Also, I think is a good idea to replace the fan for 2 with higher CFM and static pressure.

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...et-no-gts.html

btw, my temps are pretty high for a phenom II X4 - 37c idle 57c prime95 (6 hours) 64c LinX (1 hour). I'm really pissed with the LinX temperatures, since is 2c over the maximum recomended by AMD. I think it has something to do with my push/pull setup, since I'm using 2 Akasa Apache witch is only 1300 rpm. Besides the cpu lap, I'll replace the fans with 2 Sythe Ultra Kase (2000 or 3000).


----------



## PyroTechNiK

Here is my H50 Push/Pull set-up


----------



## Ceadderman

Very nice. But for some reason the old adage, "If your friends jumped off a bridge would you jump off a bridge" comes to mind.







lol

Not speaking of the H50 of course. If moms axed me that in regards to the H50, my first response would be "how high is the bridge" and then pick myself off the floor after she smacked the taste out my mouth for bein wise.









Seems like that Corsair vid just has people convinced fitting side up.







lol

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *PyroTechNiK*


Here is my H50 Push/Pull set-up


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ytsejam*


btw, my temps are pretty high for a phenom II X4 - 37c idle 57c prime95 (6 hours) 64c LinX (1 hour). I'm really pissed with the LinX temperatures, since is 2c over the maximum recomended by AMD. I think it has something to do with my push/pull setup, since I'm using 2 Akasa Apache witch is only 1300 rpm. Besides the cpu lap, I'll replace the fans with 2 Sythe Ultra Kase (2000 or 3000).


My original p/p setup I used two of the same Akasa Apache you are currently and had way too high temps though it was also before the 200 hour cure time on my AS5.

I changed to two Scythe GentleTyphoons 1850rpm fans and two 25mm shrouds and now after the 200 hour cure time I am getting 23-24C idle temps and 36C load with Prime95 so far the longest I run it for is 3 hours. LinX I have run for an hour and still the same thing 36C max.


----------



## ytsejam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Ummm...

Lapped 955 BE
Lapped H50

Before Lapp? 48-52c +/- idle temp average stock cooler.
After Lapp w/ Shin-Etsu X23? 34c Idle temp average running 1 fan in exhaust. In abients of 75F +/-

I'm still waiting on my MoBo to come back before I get the skinny on a fully kitted out system. Of course that's going from a stock cooler to a Lapped setup. I might have held off the Lapping to get a more telling result but that's about a 14c drop in any case. I'm pretty sure I would only have seen about 10c drop had I not lapped it and left the stock G751 TIM in place.









~Ceadder









I'd really like to see some tests with lapped vs non lapped H50 on the same system. Just to see if it's worth the trouble. I don't think it's as easy as lapping a cpu or a regular heatsink.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
My original p/p setup I used two of the same Akasa Apache you are currently and had way too high temps though it was also before the 200 hour cure time on my AS5.

I changed to two Scythe GentleTyphoons 1850rpm fans and two 25mm shrouds and now after the 200 hour cure time I am getting 23-24C idle temps and 36C load with Prime95 so far the longest I run it for is 3 hours. LinX I have run for an hour and still the same thing 36C max.

Thanks for the info. I think I'm on the right path then. If I get 29-30C on idle and about 50-55C on stress tests it will be nice.

I still wanna try to push my current cpu a little bit more than my current overclock, so the lower the better.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ytsejam* 
I'd really like to see some tests with lapped vs non lapped H50 on the same system. Just to see if it's worth the trouble. I don't think it's as easy as lapping a cpu or a regular heatsink.

Thanks for the info. I think I'm on the right path then. If I get 29-30C on idle and about 50-55C on stress tests it will be nice.

I still wanna try to push my current cpu a little bit more than my current overclock, so the lower the better.

Just sent you a PM. Your 965 C3 can easily run 24/7 at 3.8 ghz with stock voltage. The H50 keeps it plenty cool enough. In fact at 4.017 ghz my 965 C3 never goes beyond 53 C on any stress test (anything below 55 C is fine for 24/7). PM me if you need more info.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
Just sent you a PM. Your 965 C3 can easily run 24/7 at 3.8 ghz with stock voltage. The H50 keeps it plenty cool enough. In fact at 4.017 ghz my 965 C3 never goes beyond 53 C on any stress test (anything below 55 C is fine for 24/7). PM me if you need more info.










Opps...my bad. Just noticed it's a C2. Never mind then. Even 3.7 ghz takes some work with that chip.


----------



## Sabis

k, so Scythe Kaze Maru 2's aren't good fans? i have the 1200 RPM setup, 61 cfm I beleive. I can get another, push/pull exhaust, and with that and curing my temps should drop below 80? Because it hits 80 within 2 minutes in Prime95 max heat testing right now


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sabis* 
k, so Scythe Kaze Maru 2's aren't good fans? i have the 1200 RPM setup, 61 cfm I beleive. I can get another, push/pull exhaust, and with that and curing my temps should drop below 80? Because it hits 80 within 2 minutes in Prime95 max heat testing right now









I tested both the KM2 at 1200rpm and 1700rpm and while they make an acceptable push fan they really need to be mated with a much better performing pull fan (higher static pressure). My cpu has lower thermals than yours so I'm not sure what exact setup would perform best for you. But a single KM2 1200rpm is inadequate at best, and 2 will have little benefit.


----------



## Nakattk

Is 34c idle normal for the i7 930? I just turned my computer on for the first time and that's what it is giving me. I am using the h50 with push pull and shrouds.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nakattk*


Is 34c idle normal for the i7 930? I just turned my computer on for the first time and that's what it is giving me. I am using the h50 with push pull and shrouds.


Ambient temp?? If it's -20C I'd say your H50 is no good....if it's +30C I'd say your H50 is doing great!!......you see what I mean?


----------



## PyroTechNiK

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Very nice. But for some reason the old adage, "If your friends jumped off a bridge would you jump off a bridge" comes to mind.







lol

Not speaking of the H50 of course. If moms axed me that in regards to the H50, my first response would be "how high is the bridge" and then pick myself off the floor after she smacked the taste out my mouth for bein wise.









Seems like that Corsair vid just has people convinced fitting side up.







lol

~Ceadder









Is there any benefit fitting it down?.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PyroTechNiK* 
Is there any benefit fitting it down?.

No. He just keeps insisting it's a problem even though he has not tested or proved such a statement. Why some people feel like making claims with absolutely no foundation I will never know. Making such claims is a disservice to this community, but he insists on making them anyway. I guess he is smarter than Corsair or the H50s designer(s).


----------



## Nakattk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Ambient temp?? If it's -20C I'd say your H50 is no good....if it's +30C I'd say your H50 is doing great!!......you see what I mean?










The temp in my room is 72 degrees I dont know if thats + or - 30C?

i looked it up 72 F is 23 C so if its 23c in my room and my cpu is 34 idle with the H50 is that good or bad?


----------



## pieisgood2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nakattk*


The temp in my room is 72 degrees I dont know if thats + or - 30C?

i looked it up 72 F is 23 C so if its 23c in my room and my cpu is 34 idle with the H50 is that good or bad?


that's a good idle temp. now check your load temps. do 20 runs of intel burn test on all cores/threads at maximum.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PyroTechNiK*


Is there any benefit fitting it down?.



Short version is that a air bubble/pocket wont travel down to the bottom of the rad where the lines will be. Thus promoting pump heath. Gravity's a... well you know









Thats the point he was trying to make.

and *MY* foundation is the laws of gravity and common sense


----------



## Ceadderman

Besides keeping the air away from the fittings? Probably none. But if you like your pump wouldn't it make sense to keep the air away from it and any chance it gets back to your pump to zero percent?

Lemme sum it up like this, when I lapped my H50 I could hear the liquid sloshing around inside the Radiator. You'd NEVER hear it(or wouldn't be as loud) if the air inside the system was minimal.

Speaking of lapping the pump. For anyone trying to do this, I suggest holding the Rad up with your weak side arm. Then with your strong side let the weight of the pump do the "lapp", as all you're going to do is make sure that the pump doesn't rock. It's going to do it anyway, but the idea here is to keep it to a minimum. If it does it once then stop, rotate the pump and continue. The pump is already pretty flat. The lapping of it however brings the scored material up because you're shaving the unscored material down.

A good way to do this is to use a slight amount of water on the paper and instead of cross sanding performing figure 8s' and circular patterns with the pump. Hope this clears up any issues one may be having lapping the pump.

I may put a small vid together detailing this but I would have to pull it all back out of the 932. Speaking of which again, I got 3 of my bolts shortened and the optical drive just fits under them. So when my bro gets back I'll shorten the 4th(if he hasn't done so yet) and then prep the bolts for paint. Then I'm done with that and ready for my Board to go back in whenever it comes back.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *PyroTechNiK*


Is there any benefit fitting it down?.


----------



## looser101

When you lapped your pump and started it for the first time did you hear any air going through your pump?


----------



## metroidfreak

So I switched from exhaust to intake and the temps were actually 3C higher. I though it was supposed to be the other way around? lol


----------



## cordawg92

What do you guys think?







I got it in yesterday









A little eye candy for you:




























Btw, are these temps ok?


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *metroidfreak* 
So I switched from exhaust to intake and the temps were actually 3C higher. I though it was supposed to be the other way around? lol

You have to be careful when testing for temps. Idle temps mean little and even load temps can be suspect depending on how you use your rig. For instance... you run a program to load your cpu and you think you have the best setup possible. But you are a gamer. You start playing a game and your gpu starts dumping heat into the case or out the back. Depending on your setup you might be sucking this heated air into the H50 and your temps shoot-up. You really need to give some consideration of your overall setup and your system use.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *metroidfreak* 
So I switched from exhaust to intake and the temps were actually 3C higher. I though it was supposed to be the other way around? lol

Depends on a lot of factors. Do you have it as intake at a place that should be exhaust and thus you screwed up the whole thermal design of your case? Do you have it as intake where you have other exhaust fans/devices venting hot air or is there some heat source close to the intake? There is a lot of things to consider before jumping to conclusions quickly. I tried mine as intake and exhaust in the back of my case and then ended up making my own special brackets and moving it to the front of my case as intake to support the whole design of my case. Front intake and then exhaust out the back/top.

Edit: Just looked up your case it looks like yours is designed the same way. I don't know where you have your H50 fans/radiator so it is hard to say if it should be intake or exhaust till you specify where you have it.


----------



## metroidfreak

I just did a quick 5 minute prime 95 test to check it, I have it in the back of my case where the exhaust fan used to be, but I have a huge 240mm fan on the top of the case


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *metroidfreak*


I just did a quick 5 minute prime 95 test to check it, I have it in the back of my case where the exhaust fan used to be, but I have a huge 240mm fan on the top of the case


If your keeping it at the back of the case where the exhaust fan use to be then it should remain as exhaust. I tried the intake vs exhaust of mine at the back of my case also while I didn't get higher temps for my CPU I did get higher temps for everything else in my case thanks to messing up the air flow in the case. I don't know exactly how your case holds the fans in the front of your case it may be easier for you to mount it in the front than it was for me. Because I didn't want to use zip ties I made custom brackets for mine to fit up there.


----------



## Sabis

Hmmm. K. So I have my HAF922, my KM2 is mounted to the back of the case and is attached to the rad as INTAKE. I understand p/p is better and exhaust seems to be the favorite. So, reccomend me a fan, really prefer under 20 shipped, to add to it for p/p, and please tlel me which one to push and which to pull. Once that's setup, what would a typical load temp be for a 920 OC'ed to 4.0 with this setup? My ambients are usually about 78f, case has 200mm front intake, then the top and side 200's are exhaust, all CM Megaflows. I have a pretty basic 120 I found to be extra on the bottom of the case as exhaust since I have it raised about a half inch off the ground and I didn't have to buy it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope. The reason for this is pretty simple. Holding my Rad horizontal and up above the pump no air could travel down into the pump. When I mounted the Rad I had the case on its side and the fittings were on the west side of the map. Then when I raised it all the air got trapped on the north side of the horizontal plane where it has sat since I had to disconnect the pump from the MoBo to RMA the latter.

For all intents and purposes my Push/Pull setup is done. Just waiting on my 4th toggle bolt to come back so I can lock it in.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


When you lapped your pump and started it for the first time did you hear any air going through your pump?


----------



## Ceadderman

Look dude, I'm NOT saying that there is a temp benefit. I'm saying that it's a pump LIFESPAN benefit. Air sucked into a liquid pump is NOT good.

There was no need for the tude. I didn't even mention a temp benefit. But let's revisit this shall we? It's been stated here in this thread that it's a 1c degree benefit to having them up.

So now the issue is to find out where you can shave that same 1c elsewhere.

I imagine that a Push/Pull setup would do that. Don't you?

Now we're at whether to intake or exhaust. For me I'm exhausting. But I have the ability to do this because my case allows for a spare 120mm fan to mate with the 230mm fan mounted to its ceiling.

Hmmm now where else can I shave some temps?

How about my lapped CPU and H50? Yeah I think that works too.

W/O the Push/Pull setup I was already running -14c from the stock AMD cooler in the Lapped Exhaust setup. At the time I was running one fan paired to the Rad in exhaust I was seeing 34c @ idle. I'd be willing to bet that I see a 4-6c drop in temps when I get everything back together.

So you know what you can do with the attitude right? Parting of cheeks and putting it where the sun don't shine come to mind here. Cause you have no proof to the contrary. But I can show logically how it's not a benefit to run it fittings to the north.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


No. He just keeps insisting it's a problem even though he has not tested or proved such a statement. Why some people feel like making claims with absolutely no foundation I will never know. Making such claims is a disservice to this community, but he insists on making them anyway. I guess he is smarter than Corsair or the H50s designer(s).


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Look dude, I'm NOT saying that there is a temp benefit. I'm saying that it's a pump LIFESPAN benefit. Air sucked into a liquid pump is NOT good.

There was no need for the tude. I didn't even mention a temp benefit. But let's revisit this shall we? It's been stated here in this thread that it's a 1c degree benefit to having them up.

So now the issue is to find out where you can shave that same 1c elsewhere.

I imagine that a Push/Pull setup would do that. Don't you?

Now we're at whether to intake or exhaust. For me I'm exhausting. But I have the ability to do this because my case allows for a spare 120mm fan to mate with the 230mm fan mounted to its ceiling.

Hmmm now where else can I shave some temps?

How about my lapped CPU and H50? Yeah I think that works too.

W/O the Push/Pull setup I was already running -14c from the stock AMD cooler in the Lapped Exhaust setup. At the time I was running one fan paired to the Rad in exhaust I was seeing 34c @ idle. I'd be willing to bet that I see a 4-6c drop in temps when I get everything back together.

So you know what you can do with the attitude right? Parting of cheeks and putting it where the sun don't shine come to mind here. Cause you have no proof to the contrary. But I can show logically how it's not a benefit to run it fittings to the north.









~Ceadder









Annoying thing is that I have found since I went with my drive bay mod as push/pull Intake, when it gets hotter here (which it has) temps rise quickly because ofc its only going to be as good as the ambient, starting to wonder wether I should try out an exhaust setup again with my new fans etc.
Where have you mounted yours ceadder ? At the top as exhaust ? not sure wether I would have the room with 2x 25mm shrouds and 2x 38mm fans.
Or I guess I could invest in a new AC unit!


----------



## Ceadderman

Mine is set up in the first two 5.25 bays. Leaving the bottom 4 available to use if I use full size devices and the upper 2 are still usable as fan controller or media device bays.









As you can see, the system is together but not under power.









A snug fit.









Better shot of the clearance issue...

















If I didn't have fan silencers setup case/sil/fan/sil/rad this would almost be impossible. Since I have maybe a 16th of an inch clearance between the 230 and the Rad where the fittings are.

I figure that I'm going to leave it in exhaust unless I have an ambient temp spike that's insane. It's early yet. I'll know more come August as to how much of a Temp spike we have around here. If I were living in the Zona then I would probably have it sitting under the AC throughout the Summer and make it an intake.









You'll have the room but be prepared to lose at least one more bay than I did. At least. You're looking @ 128mm of depth. You'll easily clear the 230mm with your setup and won't have a need for the siliencers. They do work pretty well for sealing the airways to concentrate the flow better though.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*


Annoying thing is that I have found since I went with my drive bay mod as push/pull Intake, when it gets hotter here (which it has) temps rise quickly because ofc its only going to be as good as the ambient, starting to wonder wether I should try out an exhaust setup again with my new fans etc.
Where have you mounted yours ceadder ? At the top as exhaust ? not sure wether I would have the room with 2x 25mm shrouds and 2x 38mm fans.
Or I guess I could infest in a new AC unit!


----------



## cordawg92

Hey guys, i was wondering if it was bad that I mounted my h50 rad with the tubes on the bottom instead of the top. Will I lose any performance/degrade the life of my cooler?


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope. You shouldn't degrade the life of your cooler by mounting the fittings down. You may lose a 1c or so of temp by doing this however.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *cordawg92*


Hey guys, i was wondering if it was bad that I mounted my h50 rad with the tubes on the bottom instead of the top. Will I lose any performance/degrade the life of my cooler?


----------



## Sabis

So no reccomendations on a second fan to partner with my KM2 for push/pull and which one should push and which to pull?


----------



## reaper~

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sabis*


So no reccomendations on a second fan to partner with my KM2 for push/pull and which one should push and which to pull?


Usually you stick with the same fans for push/pull (same cfm & sp). Heres's mine, mounted on top push/pull with GT AP-15. Can't test it yet.. still waiting for RAMs.



























Any suggestions/recommendations please let me know.







Also I know I have my rear as an intake to help bring in some fresh air for the rad uptop.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Aye, well Ceadder I reckon I'm going to leave it where it is as intake. Now that Ive seen the images of your rig I know its not going to work for me, already filled up the top drive bays and have removed the lower lock in clips for the rest. I think perhaps an AC unit for the summer is going to be a must, as ofc winter will not be an issue. And on normal days, my idle temps were a slow as 29-30, but usually hover around 34-36.

1 question, I'm currenty burning in my new Zalman VF3000A gpu cooler, and in turn have my pc on its side at the moment so the forces of gravity are not as strong as I wait for the heatsinks to apply themselves properly (around about 20-24 hours).
Would this effect the cooling capability of the H50 while the rad and p/p setup is in this possition ?

Cheers!


----------



## cordawg92

pfft. what bad cable management..


----------



## Ceadderman

Are you commenting on my 932?









He don't like it when people talk trash about im. Especially when his heart is in the repair shop and he's forced to use a temp heart to stay alive.









If you notice the MoBo inside him at the moment has a blue and green tint to it. Doesn't look anything like his Crosshair IV Formula kitting now does it. You think a little lack of cable management is going to deter him? You think that maybe it's not in his best interests to perform cable management when he has to add 3 SATA cables to boot with?









Yeah I didn't think so either.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *cordawg92* 
pfft. what bad cable management..


----------



## cordawg92

nah, i was talking about Reaper~'s build. Your cables are pretty


----------



## Bodycount

Kinda like my set up on its side. Its much harder for air to get into the lines with it on its side "top hose is hot bottom hose is cold/cool comming in" I think. By touch it is anyway.

and i dont deal with intake/exhaust i run with my system wall mounted so ambient temps is all that matters to me


























And this is a temp solution to a "too small of a case scenario". I think im going to try and make everything fit though


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cordawg92* 
nah, i was talking about Reaper~'s build. Your cables are pretty









lol Uh, thanks?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *reaper~* 
Any suggestions/recommendations please let me know.







Also I know I have my rear as an intake to help bring in some fresh air for the rad uptop.

Don't mount the rear as intake the front/side should give you plenty of fresh air. Your case was designed to intake front/side and exhaust out the back/top. It will actually hurt the cooling of everything in your case to change that back fan. The only suggestion of things to move is use the H50 as intake from the front. There are lots of others here that have a H50 mounted in the HAF 932 as intake from the 5 1/4 bays.

I don't have a HAF but my case is built with the same airflow design and mounting my H50 as intake from the front made a marked difference in cooling.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Don't mount the rear as intake the front/side should give you plenty of fresh air. Your case was designed to intake front/side and exhaust out the back/top. It will actually hurt the cooling of everything in your case to change that back fan. The only suggestion of things to move is use the H50 as intake from the front. There are lots of others here that have a H50 mounted in the HAF 932 as intake from the 5 1/4 bays.

I don't have a HAF but my case is built with the same airflow design and mounting my H50 as intake from the front made a marked difference in cooling.

Aye hes right, it was the same for me


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Don't mount the rear as intake the front/side should give you plenty of fresh air. Your case was designed to intake front/side and exhaust out the back/top. It will actually hurt the cooling of everything in your case to change that back fan. The only suggestion of things to move is use the H50 as intake from the front. There are lots of others here that have a H50 mounted in the HAF 932 as intake from the 5 1/4 bays.

I don't have a HAF but my case is built with the same airflow design and mounting my H50 as intake from the front made a marked difference in cooling.

Alright, thanks for the suggestions. That's an easy fix for me (just reverse the fan) but I'm using the Obsidian and it doesn't have front or side intake fans.

It has 3 uptop for exhaust, one in the back and one more for HDD cooling (on the side, inside a sealed chamber). Oh and it has one more at the bottom to draw in some cool air (by the PSU compartment).


----------



## Ceadderman

If you look at your Pump BC, the intake is on the right and outgoing is the left.









~reapers cable management is WAY better than mine at the moment.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
Kinda like my set up on its side. Its much harder for air to get into the lines with it on its side "top hose is hot bottom hose is cold/cool comming in" I think. By touch it is anyway.

and i dont deal with intake/exhaust i run with my system wall mounted so ambient temps is all that matters to me


























And this is a temp solution to a "too small of a case scenario". I think im going to try and make everything fit though


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *reaper~* 
Alright, thanks for the suggestions. That's an easy fix for me (just reverse the fan) but I'm using the Obsidian and it doesn't have front or side intake fans.

It has 3 uptop for exhaust, one in the back and one more for HDD cooling (on the side, inside a sealed chamber). Oh and it has one more at the bottom to draw in some cool air (by the PSU compartment).

Even in the Obsidian you should keep it as exhaust if your going to have it at the back mount position if I remember right that case is made to intake from the bottom and exhaust out the top/back someone I am sure can correct me on that if I am wrong.


----------



## reaper~

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Even in the Obsidian you should keep it as exhaust if your going to have it at the back mount position if I remember right that case is made to intake from the bottom and exhaust out the top/back someone I am sure can correct me on that if I am wrong.


Yup, you're right about that bottom intake. I still have to wait for those RAMs to arrive first before I can do anything.


----------



## kyle2194

How does a h50 compare to a megahalems or 212+?


----------



## AdvanSuper

3rd/4th Core never wants to go under 40c... What gives?


----------



## zidave




----------



## pieisgood2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


3rd/4th Core never wants to go under 40c... What gives?











possibly a stuck sensor or it is doing more work than the other cores, possibly running your desktop and other idle functions on it's own.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pieisgood2*


possibly a stuck sensor or it is doing more work than the other cores, possibly running your desktop and other idle functions on it's own.


Well it goes over just never under 40c. Guess it's just doing more work like you say at idle.


----------



## Lune

I just ordered one for my old i7 975 to cool it cuz I gave it to my 5 years old brother don't want it overheating lmao

I hope it does something ><


----------



## Ceadderman

You gave your H50 to your 5 y/o brother?









Does he have his own system or something?









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lune*


I just ordered one for my old i7 975 to cool it cuz I gave it to my 5 years old brother don't want it overheating lmao

I hope it does something ><


----------



## Lune

Nah I build one for him with 5970 but had bad CPU









and I gave him the i7 975, not the H50 :> gonna buy him an H50 (Already did) I hope it cools it well cuz I cba buying an entire Liquid system for him.. not like he is an overclocker lmao


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lune* 
Nah I build one for him with 5970 but had bad CPU









and I gave him the i7 975, not the H50 :> gonna buy him an H50 (Already did) I hope it cools it well cuz I cba buying an entire Liquid system for him.. not like he is an overclocker lmao

Good big brother you are


----------



## Lune

hehe







anything for the little ones


----------



## Newbie2009

How do you guys find the H50 with the Thurbans?


----------



## Lune

What on earth is that


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


3rd/4th Core never wants to go under 40c... What gives?


Dont sweat it. Quads have a bad habit of having at least one wonky sensor.

My C0 is at least 5c above everything else and C3 is 5c below. As long as they move when you stress them, its okay.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sabis*


So no reccomendations on a second fan to partner with my KM2 for push/pull and which one should push and which to pull?


Not knowing how much noise you are willing to tolerate versus a cooling benefit it makes it hard to give you specific recommendations. 2000rpm fans seem to be the sweet spot. Based on fans I have tested to date, a cheap 25mm 2000rpm fan would be the Coolermaster R4. A quieter better quality fan would be the Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15. If you can fit a 38mm thick fan a Scythe Ultra Kaze 2000rpm version also works well.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Not knowing how much noise you are willing to tolerate versus a cooling benefit it makes it hard to give you specific recommendations. 2000rpm fans seem to be the sweet spot. Based on fans I have tested to date, a cheap 25mm 2000rpm fan would be the Coolermaster R4. A quieter better quality fan would be the Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15. If you can fit a 38mm thick fan a Scythe Ultra Kaze 2000rpm version also works well.

As looser101 states, 2nd the UK 2000's. They work a treat - especially with shrouds.


----------



## cordawg92

I was just wondering if there was REALLY a temp difference putting the fittings side down. Are there any tests done to prove this?

EDIT: Never mind, I just contacted corsair and the rep said that he tested it both ways and noticed zero temperature difference. He also said that it does not affect the life expectancy of the pump whatsoever.


----------



## mad wolf

hi i came to ask a question about the h50. iv got mine running in the system you see below and a full load is taking it to the high 80's low 90C. im just running it on a pull system with the fan provided my cpu is running at (http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1266655) after looking at the reviews this seams incredibly high any one know why or what to do?


----------



## Sabis

Well, as for fans, I looked around, prefer minimal noise, so ordered a second Kaze Maru 2 1700 rpm. Not real loud, but pushes plenty of air. Now I just need to get a hardware store and buy a set of screws to mount it right when it gets in


----------



## ENTERPRISE

*Cleaned a few posts from here. Please stop it now guys otherwise I will just hand out Infractions.*


----------



## Ceadderman

Sorry guys.









~Ceadder


----------



## KruperTrooper

What happened? I missed the E-Drama? DAMNIT!!!


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mad wolf*


hi i came to ask a question about the h50. iv got mine running in the system you see below and a full load is taking it to the high 80's low 90C. im just running it on a pull system with the fan provided my cpu is running at (http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1266655) after looking at the reviews this seams incredibly high any one know why or what to do?


You say your running it as a "pull system" do you mean you have the fan so it is not pushing air through the radiator? Will try to illustrate. fan<radiator so the fan is just pulling air through the radiator not fan>radiator? If you have it the first way then that is why you are getting such high temps. you always want to push air through the radiator if you have a single fan if you have two then you use the second fan to help the push fan pull air through.


----------



## Killhouse

10565 posts, I suppose its fateful that some of them are a bit sour.

Lets keep it clean please guys, even though I'm not here often I realise how much valuable information this thread carries and I dont want it to die


----------



## Ceadderman

I think it matters more on the fan he's using(not sure) than on the orientation of his setup.

Being that I didn't have 8 bolts(short set, standard set) I had to set mine up "shorted" in Pull orientation at the top of my Case. It gave me 34c @ Idle and 49c @ load. So I don't think his setup is the problem if he's having one.

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
You say your running it as a "pull system" do you mean you have the fan so it is not pushing air through the radiator? Will try to illustrate. fan<radiator so the fan is just pulling air through the radiator not fan>radiator? If you have it the first way then that is why you are getting such high temps. you always want to push air through the radiator if you have a single fan if you have two then you use the second fan to help the push fan pull air through.


----------



## Lune

Hey guys is this a good fan for my other PC to use 2x push pull (H50) ? They seem to be quiet (atleast thats what it says) and 1500 RPM plus they look really nice. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233015


----------



## looser101

This is a cool rig. Not mine mind you. But it does have an H50.










BUILD LOG is here


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Dont sweat it. Quads have a bad habit of having at least one wonky sensor.

My C0 is at least 5c above everything else and C3 is 5c below. As long as they move when you stress them, its okay.

Funny you say that about sensors
One of mine is constant at like 32 or 37 degrees and never moves, or may move by 1 degree and that's it.
I always thought that was weird.


----------



## Lenster

Just added myself to the club.
I attached some pics.
First, my P182 modified to add an 80mm fan to lower drive bay and two 120mm to middle drive bay. Unfortunately, I had to remove the rearmost one to fit my graphics card.

Next are front and rear of assembled push pull configs which will go into 3 5.25 drive bays. The front view shows a filter attached, but I had to remove this when i thought about the difficulty in cleaning it.

The last pic shows the front of the case with the filer mounted on top of a cut out in three drive bay covers glued together. I can just pop the filter cover off and wash the filter.

Unfortunately, I was so tired after getting it all doen that I neglected to photo the case interior after installation. I replaced a TRUE 120 with one fan and here are the results:

Idle before 43,43,40,,38 MB at 35
Idle After 39,39,36,36, MB at 31

OCCT Linpack for 10 minutes (It was all I had for the TRUE)

Load before 71,71,68,65
Load after 63.63.57.57

I am one very happy camper!

Only concern - How do I clean the radiator after iy gets dusty without having to remove it from the drive bay>


----------



## Lenster

OK guys, I am new to this. I attached the referenced pics, but forgot to press upload them before I submitted my reply. How to I fix getting the pics on my post?


----------



## imh073p

You can edit the post and add the pics


----------



## Lenster

Thanks --- Done!


----------



## AdvanSuper

This thread should get stickied due to the influx of H50 threads being made...


----------



## MeatloafOverdose

Exactly^


----------



## Ceadderman

Seconded... er... Thirded?









Also it's been noticed by the Corsair Reps.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


This thread should get stickied due to the influx of H50 threads being made...


----------



## AdvanSuper

I sent a PM to that mod who cleaned up the posts from before.


----------



## KruperTrooper

^ Coolio. Great thread, helped me to decide on which cooler to get.


----------



## RaptureZ

What is the best fans I can use for a push/pull on my H50? High static pressure I would persume. I can tollerate anything under 40, mainly under 35. and the highest static pressure/cfm for it. Heard this are one of the best designs http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=26045

GT 15's?
S-flex?
Suggestions! I would like to get a red and black theme fan is there is any good ones. Im not real picky it would just be a + for my red/black theme case


----------



## pieisgood2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RaptureZ*


What is the best fans I can use for a push/pull on my H50? High static pressure I would persume. I can tollerate anything under 40, mainly under 35. and the highest static pressure/cfm for it. Heard this are one of the best designs http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=26045

GT 15's?
S-flex?
Suggestions! I would like to get a red and black theme fan is there is any good ones. Im not real picky it would just be a + for my red/black theme case


haha, undervolt this fan and it would still be amazing. you can remove the center and paint it yourself. i would personally never pay that much for a fan though. seriously though, if you undervolted this to 7v the noise would be under 40dba. 6v would get you under 35dba.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835213001


----------



## RaptureZ

I dont know much about undervolting, and those fans are like 30$ still. Would it still push as much air as it says at lower volts? whats the CFM at 7v?about


----------



## pieisgood2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RaptureZ*


I dont know much about undervolting, and those fans are like 30$ still. Would it still push as much air as it says at lower volts? whats the CFM at 7v?about


close to 141cfm, get some of those with a fan controller lol.

really though you could just pick up some scythe slipstreams. they push 111cfm at like 37dba
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185060
and only cost $9


----------



## Clairvoyant129

Using the H50 temporary (switching to full water setup later)... but awesome cooler for the money.


----------



## RaptureZ

well actually, you sure theyre good for the 120mm H50 radiator? The reviews say its a little louder than they expected.Im not really sure what 40 dba even sounds like. I might just focus on the best for under 30dba and best static pressure/cfm


----------



## Ceadderman

Check the YouTube vid in my sig link. That's what 40dB sounds like.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *RaptureZ*


well actually, you sure theyre good for the 120mm H50 radiator? The reviews say its a little louder than they expected.Im not really sure what 40 dba even sounds like. I might just focus on the best for under 30dba and best static pressure/cfm


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RaptureZ*


I dont know much about undervolting, and those fans are like 30$ still. Would it still push as much air as it says at lower volts? whats the CFM at 7v?about


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-092-_-Product

Out of Stock now sure you can find them other places work very good with 2 shrouds couldn't be happier with my temps.


----------



## Ceadderman

Not worth it man. You're talking 58cfm(after converting from 98m3/h) for $15 the dB level is negligible at that point. He can get into better fans CFM ratingwise for cheaper.

I got my Yate Loons and when I ran my Push/Pull setup you couldn't even really hear the increased flow since I have my shroud installed between it and my H50 Rad setup.

Med flow Yates are 77cfm rated and you can get them with or without LED. If one were inclined to have another color other than black they could paint the blades to whatever they wanted.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-092-_-Product

Out of Stock now sure you can find them other places work very good with 2 shrouds couldn't be happier with my temps.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Not worth it man. You're talking 58cfm(after converting from 98m3/h) for $15 the dB level is negligible at that point. He can get into better fans CFM ratingwise for cheaper.

I got my Yate Loons and when I ran my Push/Pull setup you couldn't even really hear the increased flow since I have my shroud installed between it and my H50 Rad setup.

Med flow Yates are 77cfm rated and you can get them with or without LED. If one were inclined to have another color other than black they could paint the blades to whatever they wanted.









~Ceadder









It all comes down to cooling vs noise.

After listening to your youtube video I am even happier I went with what the Scythe GentleTyphoons. I could put a DB meter inside the fans motors and not even be at half the noise. On top of that my temps at idle are 1-2C above my ambient(normally 22C) and under full load Prime95 running for 3 hours is only 36C. Yates also don't have the best track record for longevity. I could buy three Yates and run one till it dies and then switch to the second and third once the second dies or I could buy one Scythe GT and run the same amount of time on the one in the end the Scythe is cheaper obviously.

Yates are great and yes they do push a lot of air and will work great for the H50 but I already served my time as a pilot in the air force and I don't need to hear the kind of noise coming from my computer that I use to hear from my jet.

I don't know the exact Yate you have but there was a lot of them tested on a Megahalem along with lots of other fans the test shows both db and cooling.
http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ml#post9232138


----------



## Ceadderman

All my fans are controlled by the MoBo and I had them on "iggy" in the BIOS. If I wanted to, I could set the MoBo to dial them back to a set percentage from 30-90%. lol What you heard was straight 100% blast.









When I first booted up they weren't very loud once the system caught up to em.









*Update* I have these "D12SH-12" in the Red LED flavor and also the rear exhaust is the "D14SH-14", also in the Red flavor. If you look at that chart their dB to Ambient is pretty reasonable.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


It all comes down to cooling vs noise.

After listening to your youtube video I am even happier I went with what the Scythe GentleTyphoons. I could put a DB meter inside the fans motors and not even be at half the noise. On top of that my temps at idle are 1-2C above my ambient(normally 22C) and under full load Prime95 running for 3 hours is only 36C. Yates also don't have the best track record for longevity. I could buy three Yates and run one till it dies and then switch to the second and third once the second dies or I could buy one Scythe GT and run the same amount of time on the one in the end the Scythe is cheaper obviously.

Yates are great and yes they do push a lot of air and will work great for the H50 but I already served my time as a pilot in the air force and I don't need to hear the kind of noise coming from my computer that I use to hear from my jet.

I don't know the exact Yate you have but there was a lot of them tested on a Megahalem along with lots of other fans the test shows both db and cooling.
http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ml#post9232138


----------



## Bodycount

Clairvoyant129 said:


> me failing at editing at 5:08am
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [[quoteWOW!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What a nice Classified setup


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Not worth it man. You're talking 58cfm(after converting from 98m3/h) for $15 the dB level is negligible at that point. He can get into better fans CFM ratingwise for cheaper.

I got my Yate Loons and when I ran my Push/Pull setup you couldn't even really hear the increased flow since I have my shroud installed between it and my H50 Rad setup.

Med flow Yates are 77cfm rated and you can get them with or without LED. If one were inclined to have another color other than black they could paint the blades to whatever they wanted.









~Ceadder










CFM means nothing. It's the cfm the fan is able to maintain through the fins in the radiator that matter. Some fans are better at that than others, irrespective of cfm rating. If Gentle Typhoons didn't perform they wouldn't be so well regarded for use with rads and restrictive air coolers. In this case your money is going towards a powerful motor, ball bearings and great build quality (ie. reliability and performance).

Have you tried the 1850rpm Gentle Typhoons?


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


CFM means nothing. It's the cfm the fan is able to maintain through the fins in the radiator that matter. Some fans are better at that than others, irrespective of cfm rating. If Gentle Typhoons didn't perform they wouldn't be so well regarded for use with rads and restrictive air coolers. In this case your money is going towards a powerful motor, ball bearings and great build quality (ie. reliability and performance).

Have you tried the 1850rpm Gentle Typhoons?


Aye! Its the pa (static pressure) you need to worry about not the CFM, but ofc a nice combination between the 2 is prefered!


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*


Aye! Its the pa (static pressure) you need to worry about not the CFM, but ofc a nice combination between the 2 is prefered!


What speed do you run your H1011s at?


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


This thread should get stickied due to the influx of H50 threads being made...


I don't know how it couldn't be stickied, it is THE single most informative thread that i've seen on this product. I've learned much from you all.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
What speed do you run your H1011s at?

I run them at the max rated rpm m8, (2600) rpm.
Noise is quite bearable actually.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *_CH_Skyline_* 
I don't know how it couldn't be stickied, it is THE single most informative thread that i've seen on this product. I've learned much from you all.

Yeah and it seems silly to not do so especially with all these H50 thread popping up. This thread is active enough to get a quick response IMO.


----------



## Magus2727

For a sticky it should be condensed... I dont think any one really will or could read all 10598 posts... if it was all put into 1 post and then became a sticky that would be better...


----------



## Ceadderman

I don't think that one would have to read all the posts to get the information. It could still be stickied, well it should still should be due to all the other H50 threads. If people saw this thread they'd probably be more inclined to post their questions or their comments here.

@looser you don't talk to me and I won't talk to you. I'm fed up with your Trolling.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


For a sticky it should be condensed... I dont think any one really will or could read all 10598 posts... if it was all put into 1 post and then became a sticky that would be better...


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
I don't think that one would have to read all the posts to get the information. It could still be stickied, well it should still should be due to all the other H50 threads. If people saw this thread they'd probably be more inclined to post their questions or their comments here.

@looser you don't talk to me and I won't talk to you. I'm fed up with your Trolling.

~Ceadder









True... but it seams like I see alot of the same questions even on this thread... what is the thread size? How long of screws? shroud on intake or exhaust? H50 on intake or exhaust? things that even the small length of time on this thread I have seen many times...

If a google document / spreadsheet was made that could be updated like the way you add your self to the list of owners. alot of this information could be condensed in a simple chart. It would be nice to have another chart that would have a column for people to post: previous Cooler & temps, H50 and temps and then obviously you would need a column for some limited system configuration.

this thread is good and good conversations are made, however I think the sticky should be a closed thread that the spreadsheets can be updated by people but all the information should be updated and presented in a single large post...


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
@looser you don't talk to me and I won't talk to you. I'm fed up with your Trolling.

~Ceadder









I would like to see a different video that you have your case all together to show the noise difference vs it totally opened up. I know my case is a lot louder with the front opened up and side panel off. With everything together I can't hear the fans above the AC in the other room or any music/game sounds I have going.

I actually had almost exactly what he said in my post originally but edited it out so it didn't cause any problems. It is far from trolling. He mentioned some of the same things I have seen in your past posts.


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
For a sticky it should be condensed... I dont think any one really will or could read all 10598 posts... if it was all put into 1 post and then became a sticky that would be better...


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
I don't think that one would have to read all the posts to get the information. It could still be stickied, well it should still should be due to all the other H50 threads. If people saw this thread they'd probably be more inclined to post their questions or their comments here.
~Ceadder









I agree with both of you, but there is also the 'Search this Thread' option as well. I know that I've used it quite a few times. Also, many users have links in there sigs with mods and tutorials and such...


----------



## Ceadderman

All valid points. I apologize, I didn't mean it to sound like I was invalidating your opinion.

Just saying that a sticky can be whatever we want it to be.

Case in point, there is a sticky on a site I visit that is a photoshop thread. The only rule is that it has to be topic related and that no offensive material be used.

Things like this...
[img=[URL=http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk14/a7xgino/lakers.gif]http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk14/a7xgino/lakers.gif[/URL]]

...get brought up all the time to see if someone has the chops to PS it and add it to the 83 pages of the topic.









I think that you're right in that the answered questions should be formatted at the OP. It would certainly cut down on the previously answered questions. But temp questions should not be due to the varying ambients and degrees(no pun intended) of CPUs' this Epic Cooler works with.

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
True... but it seams like I see alot of the same questions even on this thread... what is the thread size? How long of screws? shroud on intake or exhaust? H50 on intake or exhaust? things that even the small length of time on this thread I have seen many times...

If a google document / spreadsheet was made that could be updated like the way you add your self to the list of owners. alot of this information could be condensed in a simple chart. It would be nice to have another chart that would have a column for people to post: previous Cooler & temps, H50 and temps and then obviously you would need a column for some limited system configuration.

this thread is good and good conversations are made, however I think the sticky should be a closed thread that the spreadsheets can be updated by people but all the information should be updated and presented in a single large post...


----------



## Ceadderman

I'll do that soon as I get my MoBo back from RMA. I probably should have done it anyway as it wasn't necessary to run it @ blast. It wasn't like I was OC'ing or folding. But I wanted to run it at max to get a personal dB bearing (sensitive hearing) to see if I could live with it at max. Anywhoo, I should see my Board before Tuesday. I'm thinking Friday if it got sent out today. Don't know cause newegg hasn't updated me since yesterday.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I would like to see a different video that you have your case all together to show the noise difference vs it totally opened up. I know my case is a lot louder with the front opened up and side panel off. With everything together I can't hear the fans above the AC in the other room or any music/game sounds I have going.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Getting quite tired of this backwards and forwards flamming! Starting to really annoy me, to the point where I have to just leave this thread for a couple of days, but ofc the speed in which this great topic grows I have alot to catch up on hehe!
NO ONE here is an expert its all mearly based from experience, END OF!
Can the Mods not put a stop to this once and for all ?

Cheers!


----------



## Lune

Fellas is this a good fan to keep the H50 cool in Push Pull?=? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233015


----------



## Ceadderman

I defer to the Board since I have to walk on eggshells in this matter.

~Ceadder


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lune* 
Fellas is this a good fan to keep the H50 cool in Push Pull?=? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233015

They list them as high static pressure and torque but with such low RPM and CFM ratings I would not use them myself. I tried the low RPM/silent route at first and was not happy with the results.

If you tell us what you want in a fan/setup we can give you some suggestions I am sure. ie white LED's lowest noise possible etc....


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
I defer to the Board since I have to walk on eggshells in this matter.

~Ceadder









I've PM'ed Ceadder my apologies. I hope he accepts and we can both move on and help others to the best of our abilities.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lune* 
Fellas is this a good fan to keep the H50 cool in Push Pull?=? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233015

I never tried that particular fan but in my testing 2000rpm fans were the sweet spot for cooling vs noise.


----------



## Lune

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


I've PM'ed Ceadder my apologies. I hope he accepts and we can both move on and help others to the best of our abilities.

I never tried that particular fan but in my testing 2000rpm fans were the sweet spot for cooling vs noise.


Think they would be able to cool it well enough? or should I just buy Delta and undervolt it


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lune*


Think they would be able to cool it well enough? or should I just buy Delta and undervolt it


Depends what you want from your setup...You don't have to go extreme RPM/noise to keep it cool just there is a lot of fans that are very quiet and push plenty of air to keep any CPU cool. If you want something specific like white leds and red colored fans and still be quiet that may be a little harder to find


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lune*


Think they would be able to cool it well enough? or should I just buy Delta and undervolt it


In my honest opinion, no. If you want it quiet you should be looking at 2x Gentle Typhoon AP-15, as a minimum. i7s run extremely hot and need all the help they can get. You may want to make a choice from HERE.


----------



## KruperTrooper

Scythe GT's. AP-15 to be precise.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KruperTrooper*


Scythe GT's. AP-15 to be precise.


Also at least the 1850 rpm ones they sell lesser RPM GT fans too. They are coming out with some new 2150 fans I might have to buy when they are out finally.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Also at least the 1850 rpm ones they sell lesser RPM GT fans too. They are coming out with some new 2150 fans I might have to buy when they are out finally.


Where did you see that tidbit of info. Been waiting for those.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Where did you see that tidbit of info. Been waiting for those.


http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ml#post9687705

Know I read it somewhere else while surfing last week sometime but unable to find it atm. All I been able to bring up searching is the 92mm 2150rpm fans which came out at the same time as the 1850rpm 120mm.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ml#post9687705

Know I read it somewhere else while surfing last week sometime but unable to find it atm. All I been able to bring up searching is the 92mm 2150rpm fans which came out at the same time as the 1850rpm 120mm.

Thanks. I'd seen them in the datasheet but hadn't seen them for sale anywhere. I guess the wait continues...


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lune*


Think they would be able to cool it well enough? or should I just buy Delta and undervolt it


Not sure how well the Delta's undervolt, hopefully they do not peform like the Scythe Ultra kaze 3000's which result in a rather annoying drone from the bearings when undervolted. I believe it is due to the way the Ultra kaze's are made.


----------



## digital_steve

I use 2 of these fans in push/pull
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185065
No issues, reasonable noise level and seem to move a lot of air (setup is exhaust at rear of case - fan > shroud > rad > shroud > case > fan).
I can't find the static pressure data for them, but they work a treat.
I also have 2 of the 1600 RPM versions as intakes at the front of my case and they are near silent.


----------



## Lune

What are your temps like


----------



## digital_steve

I'd left it running overnight last night and this morning, with the heater on 22c blowing over it, it was running at about 30c.
If the room gets super hot, max idle is between 32-34c, load is 47c


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *digital_steve* 
I'd left it running overnight last night and this morning, with the heater on 22c blowing over it, it was running at about 30c.
If the room gets super hot, max idle is between 32-34c, load is 47c

I have the same cpu but with the Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-15 1850rpm fan two 25mm shrouds with the the fans/shrouds/radiator in the front as intake my idle is 1-2c above ambient which is normally 22c Prime95 running for 3 hours yielded a max of 36c.


----------



## digital_steve

I reckon i would get much better performance if i ran it up front as an intake as well... but i doubt i'd be able to fit it that way


----------



## Zhany

Add me to the club


----------



## looser101

Drawing air from the front is probably the coolest air available. You don't have to have the rad at the front of the bay. At the rear of the bay should work just as well and will still draw from the front. Putting it in the bays also gives you room to add shrouds which will improve your cooling and make the fans quieter. You can click on the camera icon under my name to see some pics.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Drawing air from the front is probably the coolest air available. You don't have to have the rad at the front of the bay. At the rear of the bay should work just as well and will still draw from the front. Putting it in the bays also gives you room to add shrouds which will improve your cooling and make the fans quieter. You can click on the camera icon under my name to see some pics.


Not to mention that the bays themselves work as a sort of shroud.


----------



## digital_steve

Agreed by me on all points... it would just take more effort than i'm willing to put in at the moment.
I've had the thing on and off for 3 lots of fans, then shrouds, then re-attaching due to a TIM issue, i'm just a bit over it.
To be honest, the work and money i've put in could've given me a solid base for a full h2o setup... but this works well enough for now and i'm not really pushing my system hard at the moment (i stepped back to 3.8 from 4ghz as i didn't need the extra grunt).

The only extra step i'll take in the near future is lapping the heatsink and CPU... but that's just because i want to give it a go and see if it actually makes any difference.


----------



## looser101

Not sure about your current setup but you shouldn't have to remount if you are just replacing fans or moving the rad. In my fan testing craze I made sure I never remounted the pump as that might of had an effect on my temps other than the fans I was testing.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Not to mention that the bays themselves work as a sort of shroud.


Indeed. You can even sit the fan/shroud/rad assembly on top of your CD/DVD-ROM and use it as part of the air tunnel. Sitting it on top of some foam or other damping material is recommended.


----------



## digital_steve

The reseating was another issue, no i didn't have to remount it all the time.
It's just all the in and out of the case, dicking with screws, tapping the rad for another thread, shrouds, more fans... as i said, just a bit over it. Can't be bothered riggin up a front setup. You get to the point where you spend all your time tweaking, aligning, testing and fiddling and never actually get to play anything; that's not to say that the whole tweaking and testing isn't enjoyable, but when it gets to the point that it's a chore it's time for a break.
Plus, the most demanding game i'm playing at the moment is Falcon 4 AF... it was released in 2005. I have to disable a core on my 5970 just to play it, so i don't need to clock that much









To be honest, the location of my box is more the issue. It's directly under my heat pump (it's winter here currently) so the intakes are sucking in heat... i'll move it around tonight methinks.


----------



## looser101

I saw you had a 5970. That's why front intake would probably be a benefit for you... as long as you are not sucking in from your heating/heat pump vents. Good thing you are not taxing that gpu too much because that puppy can seriously affect your temps. I hear your pain though. Maybe one day. If you need 6/32 screws let me know.


----------



## Magus2727

I believe the 5970 is fully encased to make all the hot air exit the back... its a two slot card but the second slot is all Exhaust... I dont have one... thats just what I have heard....


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


I believe the 5970 is fully encased to make all the hot air exit the back... its a two slot card but the second slot is all Exhaust... I dont have one... thats just what I have heard....


Bingo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


I saw you had a 5970. That's why front intake would probably be a benefit for you... as long as you are not sucking in from your heating/heat pump vents. Good thing you are not taxing that gpu too much because that puppy can seriously affect your temps. I hear your pain though. Maybe one day. If you need 6/32 screws let me know.


I run my push pull as exhaust and have a good fan profile setup for the 5970, so it stays at a reasonable temperature and also the H50 rig isn't pulling in it's hot air.
Basically, from the front i'm running 2 x scythe s-flex 1600rpm intakes, one at the bottom of the case in the bays and one midway up. The one midway exhausts over the 5970 and helps with heat. I have 2 x 140mm 1000rpm case fans at the top of my case exhausting and where the rear exhaust used to be is the H50 setup, which is scythe s-flex 1900rpm into shroud into radiator into shroud attached to case into scythe s-flex 1900 mounted on the outside of the case.

I guess, in my opinion, it's decent airflow. Fresh from the front over the components that need it, exhausts up the top as that's where the hot air goes and one of the exhausts is over the rad, so could be potentially helping there, then the push/pull exhausts through the rad. The 5970 blows its hot guts out the back.

In hindsight, i would've still got a lian li case with a similar setup... just bigger.

Edit - scratch that... i was just looking at the HAF 932 case. Why the hell didn't i get that to start with!? It's airflow looks awesome, it's bigger and it's cheaper than the lian li... plus it has heaps of room for h2o!!


----------



## Trademark

In my CM Storm Scout Fresh Install


----------



## Carfanatic

Here's some current shots of the front of my case/H50 front fan.


----------



## Trademark

looks cool man


----------



## Celeras

Probably a stupid question, but where do you guys plug in your second fan for push/pull?


----------



## TweakerNoob

If your using PWM/4 pin fans, your motherboard via second 4 pin header or a Y-splitter if you don't have a second header (check mobo specs to make sure it can handle x number watts for your fans). If using 3 pin fans, your motherboard; directly to psu with molex connector or to a fan controller.


----------



## Celeras

Have plenty of sys_fan or NB headers to chose from, just wasn't sure if they would run the second fan at the same speed as the cpu header the first fan is in?


----------



## Ceadderman

Well I thin that depends on the Voltage of the fans. You SHOULD be able to run them daisied together off one of the 4 pin headers.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Celeras*


Have plenty of sys_fan or NB headers to chose from, just wasn't sure if they would run the second fan at the same speed as the cpu header the first fan is in?


----------



## Celeras

Not sure if I have a Y connector, but if I do its ok to toss two AP-15s into the 12V cpu header?

The sys_fan1 seems identical if not, except pin4 is 'reserve' instead of 'speed control'..whatever that means. Little confusing since both have '12V/speed control' under pin2, so not sure why the cpu header needs a second in pin4.


----------



## Ceadderman

You shouldn't need a Y connector. Just need a combo 3/4 pin with Mole connector. Plug your main fan into the header. Then connect both Moles and viola ju gotz MOOOOHAR POWAH!!! Rahrahrahrahrahr. All you gotsa do after that is keep it close to the edge of the MoBo to hide the Moles.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Celeras*


Not sure if I have a Y connector, but if I do its ok to toss two AP-15s into the 12V cpu header?

The sys_fan1 seems identical if not, except pin4 is 'reserve' instead of 'speed control'..whatever that means. Little confusing since both have '12V/speed control' under pin2, so not sure why the cpu header needs a second in pin4.


----------



## Celeras

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


You shouldn't need a Y connector. Just need a combo 3/4 pin with Mole connector. Plug your main fan into the header. Then connect both Moles and viola ju gotz MOOOOHAR POWAH!!! Rahrahrahrahrahr. All you gotsa do after that is keep it close to the edge of the MoBo to hide the Moles.









~Ceadder










I feel stupid asking you to clarify this lol, sorry. Done a million case fan mods.. but they all had controllers which I don't have any spares of atm x.x You mean a combo connector on both fans, one fan to the cpu header, and then each molex to separate psu moles? Think I'm misunderstanding cos that doesn't seem right..


----------



## gordesky1

i have couple questions about my h50 sense i had too take it off couple times i had too removed the stuff that was on it sense it was pretty scrape up.

so i put some ocz freeze paste on but im not really happy about my temps.

my cpu in my system profile is at 4.1ghz and 1.52v and i get load temps of 53 too 54 which was higher 55+ on really hot days but i added 2 high performance silver-stone fans which blows 133cfm each.

but my 965 aint happy with 50+ temps it will usely be fine for days than when it hits a certon temp i get a blue screen.

but my main question is how do you guys put the thermal paste on? i usely just put a grain of uncook rice size on the cpu than just put the block on and twist it so im not sure if i should be doing something different sense this is a water cooling block and not a heatsink base.

oh and my idle temps are pretty much always 40c which i know is good but i was usely getting 30s just seem like they risen up over time..


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gordesky1* 
i have couple questions about my h50 sense i had too take it off couple times i had too removed the stuff that was on it sense it was pretty scrape up.

so i put some ocz freeze paste on but im not really happy about my temps.

my cpu in my system profile is at 4.1ghz and 1.52v and i get load temps of 53 too 54 which was higher 55+ on really hot days but i added 2 high performance silver-stone fans which blows 133cfm each.

but my 965 aint happy with 50+ temps it will usely be fine for days than when it hits a certon temp i get a blue screen.

but my main question is how do you guys put the thermal paste on? i usely just put a grain of uncook rice size on the cpu than just put the block on and twist it so im not sure if i should be doing something different sense this is a water cooling block and not a heatsink base.

oh and my idle temps are pretty much always 40c which i know is good but i was usely getting 30s just seem like they risen up over time..

i found that spreading it with a credit card works best with the h50, because of its mounting system. that said, 55 isnt bad for a Phenom II at that voltage and clock. However the BSOD's sound like its not stable at that clock


----------



## gordesky1

well the weird thing is when its runs cooler on some days which is 50 and under its stable at that clock and volts but as soon as it gets in the mid 50s thats when it crashs...

don't know why but seems like it doesn't like the temps at all.

cause all week it was fine which we had the air on in the house sense it was really hot out but starting today there was a cold front that came in so we turn it off but thats when i got the bsod pretty much after a hour we turn it off lol which isint hot at all but it did make my temps get in the 50s


----------



## Stew B

Quote:


Originally Posted by *digital_steve* 
Bingo

I run my push pull as exhaust and have a good fan profile setup for the 5970, so it stays at a reasonable temperature and also the H50 rig isn't pulling in it's hot air.
Basically, from the front i'm running 2 x scythe s-flex 1600rpm intakes, one at the bottom of the case in the bays and one midway up. The one midway exhausts over the 5970 and helps with heat. I have 2 x 140mm 1000rpm case fans at the top of my case exhausting and where the rear exhaust used to be is the H50 setup, which is scythe s-flex 1900rpm into shroud into radiator into shroud attached to case into scythe s-flex 1900 mounted on the outside of the case.

I guess, in my opinion, it's decent airflow. Fresh from the front over the components that need it, exhausts up the top as that's where the hot air goes and one of the exhausts is over the rad, so could be potentially helping there, then the push/pull exhausts through the rad. The 5970 blows its hot guts out the back.

In hindsight, i would've still got a lian li case with a similar setup... just bigger.

Edit - scratch that... i was just looking at the HAF 932 case. Why the hell didn't i get that to start with!? It's airflow looks awesome, it's bigger and it's cheaper than the lian li... plus it has heaps of room for h2o!!









If your inthe market for a HAF, then you might as well spend the extra 50 bucks and get a HAF X.

With your H50 Setup (which I really like btw), you will be very pleased with the 200mm side and 120 add-on fan for your vid cards. The front includes a 230mm intake and the upper deck has 1 200mm exhaust, with room for a second 200mm exhaust. Your shrouded setup will have a roomier fit in the rear exhaust (I believe).

Good luck on getting a new case if you should decide. I seriously recommend the case in conjunction with an H50.


----------



## Ceadderman

If you're going Water then you could do any of the big HAFs' and be happy with them. The main issue I have with the X is that they removed one of the fan mounts from the floor of it. The thing I like about it most is that they added another 230 mount in the ceiling and added mounting rails for a 360 Rad that won't interfere with the ceiling fans.

You can still mount 120s' up top too if you wish so you could still mount an H50 up top like I have set mine up. Doing it this way gives you plenty of room in the main compartment to work with. Even if you run a shroud like I do and vent them in exhaust like I do as well.

Another nice feature on the X is that every fan mount has a filter included it looks like. That's why it's $50 more. BUT... I got DEMCiflex filters and they work awesome for the $40 I paid for 3 filters(side, bottom and front) with those in place you really don't need the optional top exhaust cause it's only going to catch the dust that comes back out. lol Especially when you set your H50 to exhaust out the top.









@Celeras... This bro...










But that's only if you're using a fan that has a 4 pin Mole like this one...










If you notice on the upper left of that fan it has 2 mole connections as well as the 3 pin connector.

Just another reason I like stock Yates but hate them at the same time. After everything is connected you can't hide a 4 pin Mole in plain sight. My 140mm Exhaust(the above pic) has no place to send that bugger, so it's left with it's junk hanging out for the world to see.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Stew B*


If your inthe market for a HAF, then you might as well spend the extra 50 bucks and get a HAF X.

With your H50 Setup (which I really like btw), you will be very pleased with the 200mm side and 120 add-on fan for your vid cards. The front includes a 230mm intake and the upper deck has 1 200mm exhaust, with room for a second 200mm exhaust. Your shrouded setup will have a roomier fit in the rear exhaust (I believe).

Good luck on getting a new case if you should decide. I seriously recommend the case in conjunction with an H50.


----------



## Lune

Edit: Sorry for this post.. I for a solution anyway

my fan cable was kinda short lmao

Changed the fan.. the other one was ******ed







and it will fit for sure :> on the side door http://computershopper.com/shoptalk/...ake-swordm.JPG


----------



## Ceadderman

Unless you MOD the H50 you ain't mounting it on squat but the front 5.25 bays.









I am now VERY glad I did not buy into that case when it came out years ago.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lune*


Edit: Sorry for this post.. I for a solution anyway

My fan cable was kinda short lmao


----------



## Lune

If you are referring to me I really like the Thermaltake Swordm case :>

It's very handy and all that stuff + cable management on the back (behind the MB)

Pretty easy to access everything and the airflow is just insane


----------



## Ceadderman

I agree. But very limited places to put a stock H50. That's why I'm glad. That and the initial $500 price tag was a bit over the top at the time.Actually I think that it was more. But it's been awhile since I drooled over that case.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lune* 
If you are referring to me I really like the Thermaltake Swordm case :>

It's very handy and all that stuff + cable management on the back (behind the MB)

Pretty easy to access everything and the airflow is just insane


----------



## Lune

Tell me about it mate.. I paid like 1200$ or even more because my country is in middle of bloody nowhere... but it was worth it


----------



## dafour

I'm using the H50 for cooling bench stuff now,keeps a 478 celeron 2.4 @ 3.56 (1.90v) under 65c
Has multiple uses,i'm gonna mount it on a gpu too.
The only thing is that the barbs are tight and dont want to coop.


----------



## Lune

1.90 voltages? *** is that


----------



## Lune

How am I supposed to mount the 2x fans on H50? Push pull but from INSIDE the case to blow air to ouside or from outside to inside?

(Outside) > (into the radiator) > (Inside the case) OR

(Outside the case) < (into the radiator) < (Inside the case) (But that means it might get hot air from inside lets say GPU into the radiator?) so I guess the first option ye?

Edit: Just mounted it like that:

(Outside) > (into the radiator) > (Inside the case)


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lune* 
How am I supposed to mount the 2x fans on H50? Push pull but from INSIDE the case to blow air to ouside or from outside to inside?

(Outside) > (into the radiator) > (Inside the case) OR

(Outside the case) < (into the radiator) < (Inside the case) (But that means it might get hot air from inside lets say GPU into the radiator?) so I guess the first option ye?

Edit: Just mounted it like that:

(Outside) > (into the radiator) > (Inside the case)


If its an intake from the rear, it will pull in warm air from the psu and graphics card and blow hot air all over the rest of your components. Exhaust will pull in slightly warmer air but not put unnecessary heat on your other components. Most people use an exhaust setup and deal with the 1-2C higher CPU temps


----------



## Pieze

sign a brothe rup got one 2 days ago waiting for it to get here. Hopefully tomarrow.


----------



## Magus2727

the list is updated by the individual, since there are so many it is not updated by any sort of mod. so people who have gotten an H50 need to add their names to the list.


----------



## 9KRacing

I have to be honest... I'm less than impressed with my H-50's performance. I've now reseated it 4 times, and switched the fan config 3 times as well. I'm using a shroud, and I'm in push/pull. I have it set up as exhaust, but I also have a Antec 902 with 7 fans on high, I think my internal case temps might even be lower than the air behind it, since my SLI 470s dump A LOT of heat back there.

I'm waiting on some OCZ Freeze to show up and I'm going to try one more reseat... but as of right now I see the exact same temps as my Tuniq Tower 120 Extreme. For a whole heck of a lot more money, and the allure or the compact size is negated by the push/pull setup with a shroud.... it's now taking up MORE space than the tower did.

IDK, color me a lil' dissapointed.


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *9KRacing* 
I have to be honest... I'm less than impressed with my H-50's performance. I've now reseated it 4 times, and switched the fan config 3 times as well. I'm using a shroud, and I'm in push/pull. I have it set up as exhaust, but I also have a Antec 902 with 7 fans on high, I think my internal case temps might even be lower than the air behind it, since my SLI 470s dump A LOT of heat back there.

I'm waiting on some OCZ Freeze to show up and I'm going to try one more reseat... but as of right now I see the exact same temps as my Tuniq Tower 120 Extreme. For a whole heck of a lot more money, and the allure or the compact size is negated by the push/pull setup with a shroud.... it's now taking up MORE space than the tower did.

IDK, color me a lil' dissapointed.

how do you apply your TIM, i found that getting a good seating is near impossible unless you evenly spread the TIM with a credit card.


----------



## looser101

...and what fans are you using? What exactly are your temps, idle and load?


----------



## Carfanatic

I cleaned out my computer today all the dust etc. With the H50 and the side 220mm fan on intake I can't keep out the dust and dirt out it seems. I have a filter on top of the built in filters for my other front 120mm fan but none on the H50 fans and nothing for the side 220mm fan. I don't know where to get one for the 220mm fan at all for the H50 fans I was thinking of: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Has anyone used filters like these and attest to if they work or don't work or if they restrict airflow too much?

Also any suggestions on some place I can get a filter for my 220mm side fan would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Celeras

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


@Celeras... This bro...

~Ceadder










You're confusing the hell out of me lmao. +rep even though I have no idea what you're telling me to do!


----------



## Sabis

Got my second KM2 fan in. And I realised using these fans is a PITA for push/pull. They mount to 120mm mounting slots, BUT require the full 140mm clearance, and thus do not fit unmodded on the side of the rad with the tubes. But 5 minutes with a coping saw made that son***** (lol ******* moment) fit jus fine! I'm just letting my AS5 cure and wait to see how temps do afterwards. If it's still not below 80c at load, gonna try OCZ Freeze. Though in some more reading at Corsair, I found out a 4.0 i7 with HT on WILL get over 80c even on their setup so was not happy about that. Is HT necesary for gaming (Bad Company 2 heaviest I play) or any other normal usage? If their charts are right I can drop tmeps alot turning it off.


----------



## Wingzero

Right me and my mate are having a disagrement about push/pull.

I have it set up as fan on inside of the case attached to rear panel sucking air in
then h50rad then other fan connected to h50 pulling air through from the rad to the inside of the case.

SO

Fan rear panel ----> h50 Rad ----> Fan pulling air across h50 into case.


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wingzero* 
Right me and my mate are having a disagrement about push/pull.

I have it set up as fan on inside of the case attached to rear panel sucking air in
then h50rad then other fan connected to h50 pulling air through from the rad to the inside of the case.

SO

Fan rear panel ----> h50 Rad ----> Fan pulling air across h50 into case.

okay thats correct but it doesn't exactly explain the disagreement


----------



## Ceadderman

Rear Panel is Pusher and after Rad is Puller.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wingzero* 
Fan rear panel ----> h50 Rad ----> Fan pulling air across h50 into case.


----------



## Celeras

Ceadder I have two of those connectors because they came with the fan. You're suggesting one fans 4 pin in the CPU header and then daisy them together with the Molex'?


----------



## Lune

I installed this cooler aswell (Waiting for my cousin to bring me my entire watercooling in here) since I cba paying 600$ for shipping or even more (Yes, even MORE! Country middle of nowhere).

Here are some pics I just installed it on i7 980x

Running it @ 3.8 atm with 1.19 voltages @ 32 idle and 48-55 prime 95 torture or whatever it is.

http://img412.imageshack.us/i/img0211rb.jpg/

http://img130.imageshack.us/i/img0212gt.jpg/

Installed the Push Pull setup on the side-door.


----------



## Celeras

Alright screw it just going to daisy them together and add them to my case fan loop. GTs should be fine to run without PWM anyway.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup, I think you'll with have to get a double male adapter for one of the 4 pin male connectors or if you have at least one fan with a 4 pin Mole already in the line you could plug the other one into the Fem connector and then connect the Moles together to get your juice. Then you just hide as much of it as you can behind the MoBo tray.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Celeras* 
Ceadder I have two of those connectors because they came with the fan. You're suggesting one fans 4 pin in the CPU header and then daisy them together with the Molex'?


----------



## Lune

U talking to me?







I don't care about cables cant even see them they are under the mobo


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope. I was speaking to Celeras. All good though.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lune* 
U talking to me?







I don't care about cables cant even see them they are under the mobo


----------



## Wingzero

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OutOfBalanceOX*


okay thats correct but it doesn't exactly explain the disagreement


He was saying i should be exhausting at the rear not intaking.


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wingzero*


He was saying i should be exhausting at the rear not intaking.


you can do either, i prefer to do exhaust because it pushes the hot cpu air out of the case and isn't sucking in the hot air from my gpu exhaust


----------



## Ceadderman

That depends on how you go about it. If you change it to exhaust, I would think that it would be wise to intake from the front to supply cooler air to the P/P setup. Maybe even going so far as to connect the two for uninterrupted airflow. But that's only if you have the room in your main compartment to do that.

And also I'm not sure about what the temps are at the back above your Fermi. he might be suggesting that your H50 P/P setup is pulling in the exhausted heat from it.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wingzero*


He was saying i should be exhausting at the rear not intaking.


----------



## Celeras

Just hooked them up to the case loop, which for some reason didn't work.. so I gave them their own loop. Works fine and I barely even hear the suckers and they're (obviously) running full blast. The low hum might get on my nerves only because my haf is ultra quiet, so I'll worry about getting a PWM splitter if it becomes unbearable.

Went from 44'C idle 57-59'C prime95-load(stock h50) to 38'C idle 52-55'C load with sig OC and 28'C ambient. So I am pleased


----------



## AverageGai

Is it better to mount the radiator with the tube ends on top or on the bottom?


----------



## Lune

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AverageGai*


Is it better to mount the radiator with the tube ends on top or on the bottom?


http://img412.imageshack.us/i/img0211rb.jpg/

Mine are on top and that's how it is in Corsair H50 installation guide or whatever it is... so I guess that's the right way? :>


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lune* 
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ners-1067.html

Mine are on top and that's how it is in Corsair H50 installation guide or whatever it is... so I guess that's the right way? :>

It is a closed loop system whichever way you want to/can mount them is up to you.


----------



## Archer S

Okay I've been here for a while but never got around to posting any pictures of my H50 in the back of my antec 902
UNTIL NOW.....
















sorry about the very shiny ram








...and the low resolution pics


----------



## Ceadderman

A closed loop system that still has air inside it.

If it were me and I was mounting it to the exhaust port I would at least mount it with the fittings on the bottom.

FWIW you can mount it either way and someone here said they got -1c temps over their initial temp, mounting it fittings up. But look at where the air gets "trapped".

That's all I'm sayin.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
It is a closed loop system whichever way you want to/can mount them is up to you.


----------



## AverageGai

I have my corsair logo right side up, rather than upside down or sideways and I really don't want to change it's orientation, but I hear people place it upside down so that the air bubbles travel up through the tubes and into the radiator.

Will having the logo right side up gonna to make a big difference?


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


A closed loop system that still has air inside it.


unless corsair no longer makes the final connection while submerged in coolant, this isn't true. it comes to you with as little air in it as any custom loop and has little to no evaporation


----------



## 9KRacing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OutOfBalanceOX*


how do you apply your TIM, i found that getting a good seating is near impossible unless you evenly spread the TIM with a credit card.


I use the pea method normally, but the last time I used the 2 lines method to try something new. I actually got 2 degree lower idle temps, but load temps still hit 81 on the hottest core.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


...and what fans are you using? What exactly are your temps, idle and load?


Using the stock corsair fan and a Xigmatek 1650 rpm with the corsair pulling. Idle temps are 43-45 on the hot cores and 36-38 on the cold cores. (I know, I got a super offset chip) Load temps are 81-78-79-74 after 15 mins of OCCT.


----------



## Ceadderman

In my experience there is air in the system. I know this because I lapped mine and could hear the liquid sloshing inside the cooler. That tells me that there is more than just a minimal amount. No air no slosh. Minimal air barely noticeable slosh. More than you think air, definite audible slosh. Mine was audible and was definite.

Also if they use anything other than distilled water that leaves residue on the Rad. Residue they would have to clean off. Which could put the pump in harms way, which I doubt they would do that.

I'm not saying that the H50 is shoddy. If it were or if I felt it were, it would NOT be in my system. I'm just pointing out a fact of my experience with it.

Also if you look at the fitting end and measure(as best as you can possibly do so) you will find that there is MAYBE an eighth of an inch between the interior top and the very top of the fittings. Based on what I heard when I lapped the pump, I won't ever mount it fittings up. It's not worth the -1c drop in temp imho.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *OutOfBalanceOX*


unless corsair no longer makes the final connection while submerged in coolant, this isn't true. it comes to you with as little air in it as any custom loop and has little to no evaporation


----------



## AverageGai

I mounted the radiator against the back of my case so from outside in it's: Rear wall of case, radiator, then fan, rather than the suggested case, fan, radiator. And rather than having the fan as intake, I have it as exhaust otherwise it'll screw up the pressure in my case... As of now, I have two intake in the front, one exhaust in the rear, and one exhaust on top.

Would this be okay?


----------



## pieisgood2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *9KRacing* 
I use the pea method normally, but the last time I used the 2 lines method to try something new. I actually got 2 degree lower idle temps, but load temps still hit 81 on the hottest core.

Using the stock corsair fan and a Xigmatek 1650 rpm with the corsair pulling. Idle temps are 43-45 on the hot cores and 36-38 on the cold cores. (I know, I got a super offset chip) Load temps are 81-78-79-74 after 15 mins of OCCT.

at least you are honest, i'm tired of people with overclocked 920/930's saying they load at 55c with the H50


----------



## Ceadderman

You can mount it any way you choose. That's the beauty of the H50 compared to other coolers.

If you have another 120 in your case and you feel that you would rather use the H50 to intake and don't want to mess with balance, then I would suggest flipping a 120 to exhaust if you can. Only real place to do this is on the ceiling as hot air rises so floor is not an option and I'm not sure you want to exhaust out the front. However if you have the length to mount there I could see the H50 mounted up front if you have an intake fan there. Or even in your 5.25 bays since the HAFs' have the airflow to pull air in through the 5.25 grills.

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *AverageGai* 
I mounted the radiator against the back of my case so from outside in it's: Rear wall of case, radiator, then fan, rather than the suggested case, fan, radiator. And rather than having the fan as intake, I have it as exhaust otherwise it'll screw up the pressure in my case... As of now, I have two intake in the front, one exhaust in the rear, and one exhaust on top.

Would this be okay?


----------



## Henrikw92

Hmm, what do you guys thing would be the best fan configuration for the h50 i just ordered? 2 yate loon 120x38 mm 1350 rpm fans in push/pull or 2 scythe slip stream 1900 rpm fans in push/pull with a shroud on the push fan? And btw, if possible i will mount the h50 in the 5.25 bays of my cm storm scout. Already have an 120 mm fan there.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ummm no comparison the Scythes.

But that's rather unfair since you can get the YLs' in a similar RPM rating.

You're basically comparing a burger to a steak.

If I have my choice I'll take the steak every time.









Compare these instead and at least give the Scythes something to sweat over.










They are at least 300 RPM closer to the Scythes in a head to head comparison. 1650 RPM/33dB/70.5cfm AND they come in black and LED flavors.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Henrikw92*


Hmm, what do you guys thing would be the best fan configuration for the h50 i just ordered? 2 yate loon 120x38 mm 1350 rpm fans in push/pull or 2 scythe slip stream 1900 rpm fans in push/pull with a shroud on the push fan? And btw, if possible i will mount the h50 in the 5.25 bays of my cm storm scout. Already have an 120 mm fan there.


----------



## Henrikw92

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Ummm no comparison the Scythes.

But that's rather unfair since you can get the YLs' in a similar RPM rating.

You're basically comparing a burger to a steak.

If I have my choice I'll take the steak every time.









Compare these instead and at least give the Scythes something to sweat over.











They are at least 300 RPM closer to the Scythes in a head to head comparison. 1650 RPM/33dB/70.5cfm AND they come in black and LED flavors.









~Ceadder










Well, the thing is, i already have both the scythe fans and the YL fans









So then i'll probably go for the scythe fans, since they do push a lot more air. But i have heard some say that 38 mm fans perform better than 25 mm fans on radiators, but a shroud on the scythe fan might change that?

And btw, anyone knows if the tubes from the radiator/cpu block to the radiator on the H50 is long enough to mount it in the 5.25 bays in my cm storm scout?


----------



## Ceadderman

Did I miss something? Are your Yates 38mm instead of 25mm? I may need to go back and re-read that.









*Edit* I vote Yate Loons then.







lol

Reason: Yates are solid, but more because the space lost to shroud/Fan combo is more than single 38mm fans. You could even add a shroud and come in under that space if you're considering running fan/shroud combo on both sides of the Rad.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Henrikw92* 
Well, the thing is, i already have both the scythe fans and the YL fans









So then i'll probably go for the scythe fans, since they do push a lot more air. But i have heard some say that 38 mm fans perform better than 25 mm fans on radiators, but a shroud on the scythe fan might change that?

And btw, anyone knows if the tubes from the radiator/cpu block to the radiator on the H50 is long enough to mount it in the 5.25 bays in my cm storm scout?


----------



## AverageGai

The tubes on the H50 are long enough to mount your radiator in the 5.25 bay.


----------



## Henrikw92

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Did I miss something? Are your Yates 38mm instead of 25mm? I may need to go back and re-read that.









*Edit* I vote Yate Loons then.







lol

Reason: Yates are solid, but more because the space lost to shroud/Fan combo is more than single 38mm fans. You could even add a shroud and come in under that space if you're considering running fan/shroud combo on both sides of the Rad.









~Ceadder









Space, at least, wont be a problem if i am able too mount the rad in the 5.25 bays. But i think i will maybe test both fans in different configurations before i settle for one







Wish the YL fans where at least 1600 rpm, then i would have choosen them over the slip stream fans no doubt.

Edit:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AverageGai* 
The tubes on the H50 are long enough to mount your radiator in the 5.25 bay.

Thanks for the info







Then i can at least use any combo of fans and shrouds without having to worry about space


----------



## Ceadderman

Will we see double push/pull? Scythe< YL <Rad <YL < Scythe?









Probably not but I have found myself wondering if one could do that would it make a difference in cooling. Definitely will in flow.









Before someone busts my chops on this remember that WWII P-51 Mustangs of the high altitude variety had a dual prop configuration.







lol

~Ceadder










Quote:


Originally Posted by *Henrikw92* 
Space, at least, wont be a problem if i am able too mount the rad in the 5.25 bays. But i think i will maybe test both fans in different configurations before i settle for one







Wish the YL fans where at least 1600 rpm, then i would have choosen them over the slip stream fans no doubt.

Edit:

Thanks for the info







Then i can at least use any combo of fans and shrouds without having to worry about space


----------



## Reptar

Has anyone tried the Xigmateks that are on the Dark Knight?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-035-_-Product

How do they perform?


----------



## Lune

I am using them :> just installed 2 today push pull and they are very silent + good performance (not the best but whatever)atleast it keeps my i7 975 on my other system very cool







- here is a picture http://img130.imageshack.us/i/img0212gt.jpg/


----------



## Reptar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lune*


I am using them :> just installed 2 today push pull and they are very silent + good performance (not the best but whatever)atleast it keeps my i7 975 on my other system very cool







- here is a picture http://img130.imageshack.us/i/img0212gt.jpg/


Could I see your temps? I'm about to order six of the fans for my 700D and H50. They've been out of stock for a few months now.


----------



## Lune

Err I will give ya some temps tommorow cuz I am away from the pc now :> but they are like 35 idle and 52-55 load with 1.2 V (3.8, 3-9Ghz) because my brother doesnt need more than that :>


----------



## pez

Well just added a shroud between my push fan and the rad. Instant 2C drop. Idle is 3C lower, and when programs like iTunes, Trillian, and Steam are loaded up, the CPU doesn't shoot up another 3-5C, only about 2C. Will get a pic soon







.

EDIT: Bad pic, but you get the idea







. Used 6-32 x 3" screws. Had to use 3 washers though to make up for the extra. I'll probably try and sand them down or cut them soon.


----------



## method526

hey guys i have a(nother) question about the fan placement. corsair recommends a fan blowing the outside air into the radiator (i shouldn't have trouble flipping one of my antec 1200 exhaust fans to do that). so my question is, what direction should i put the other fan in? should i have it blowing air in the same direction as the intake, or should i have it blowing air into the radiator from my case. so in other words, do i do (outside)-->/-->(inside) or (outside)-->/<--(inside)? or should i just save me the trouble and do (outside)<--/<--(inside) by not changing the direction of my exhaust fan? thanks.


----------



## staryoshi

Here's a teaser pic for my ITX rig. Will post completed pics once the ST45SF PSU is released and I get everything finalized.


----------



## AverageGai

Guys, which mode do I set my fan to?

The fan is the one that came with my H50.

It is a rear case 120mm case fan mounted on the radiator as an exhaust, but it's plugged into the CPU header on the mobo. I have 4 options: CPU Q-Fan Enabled (Silent, Optimal, Performance) or Disabled.

With it set to silent, the fan idles at ~700RPM, Optimal idles at ~900RPM, and Performance at ~1200RPM. During Intel Burn Test, I never see the fan go pass 1400RPM when I have Q-Fan enabled.

With it disabled, it's a constant 1700RPM.

Normally, I have my case fan running at max and the CPU fan, I let Q-Fan decide the RPM.

But in this case, the fan is a rear exhaust, but it's also mounted on the radiator cooling the CPU, so I'm a bit confused on how I should set the speed.

What do you guys think, Q-Fan Peformance or Q-Fan disabled in my case?


----------



## Ceadderman

@Average...

You should probably pick a level and stick with it and check your temps as you go. If you're above 43c @ idle then 1700 may be the way to go. This also depends on how much racket you're willing to put up with. So if nothing else run it @ 1700 for a bit and see if it's too loud for you to live with. If so adjust accordingly.

@Method...

Honestly you should try a few different ways to see what works the Antec 1200. I've never owned that Case so I can't say whether Intake or Exhaust. I run exhaust cause I have a high enough Airflow in my case.

Yours probably does too, but I can't speak to that.

Now if you're running 1 fan in either configuration the best bet more likely is Case/fan/Rad Some people mount their Rad first but then you need short enough 6-32 toggle bolts to bolt the Rad into place and then you can use the supplied bolts to mount the fan. Remember, whichever way you go to be careful cause you could bugger the fins on the Rad if you overthread the bolts. Possibly even penetrate the core.

Hope I was helpful to you.

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *method526* 
hey guys i have a(nother) question about the fan placement. corsair recommends a fan blowing the outside air into the radiator (i shouldn't have trouble flipping one of my antec 1200 exhaust fans to do that). so my question is, what direction should i put the other fan in? should i have it blowing air in the same direction as the intake, or should i have it blowing air into the radiator from my case. so in other words, do i do (outside)-->/-->(inside) or (outside)-->/<--(inside)? or should i just save me the trouble and do (outside)<--/<--(inside) by not changing the direction of my exhaust fan? thanks.


----------



## AverageGai

I noticed in Silent or Optimal mode, my CPU idles at around 33-34C, but with Performance or with Q-Fan off, it idles at 30-31C depending on the room temperature.

For some reason it seems like Performance and max RPM seems to perform roughly the same after 20 runs of Intel Burn Test. They both reach a max of 53-54C. The only thing different is that with Performance, the fan maxes at 1400RPM rather than 1700RPM.

The only thing I'm worried about right now are the temperatures for the other parts in my computer since slower RPM seems to move less hot air out of the case.


----------



## Sabis

Ok, am push pull, exhaust, back of my 922. Side panel fan is intake, front is intake, top is exhaust, have a 120 on the bottom slot set as intake as well. Equipment listed in sig rig. HT is on for my i7. It hits 80c in about 5 minutes on Prime max heat, stays nice and cool in everything else. My AS5 still has about 4-5 days left to cure right. These temps normal, and is HT worth keeping on?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sabis* 
Ok, am push pull, exhaust, back of my 922. Side panel fan is intake, front is intake, top is exhaust, have a 120 on the bottom slot set as intake as well. Equipment listed in sig rig. HT is on for my i7. It hits 80c in about 5 minutes on Prime max heat, stays nice and cool in everything else. My AS5 still has about 4-5 days left to cure right. These temps normal, and is HT worth keeping on?

Those seem normal to me based on what others have posted for Intel chips the I7s really run hot. AMD is always cooler so can't say for certain about your exact cpu. After my AS5 was finally done curing I noticed a big difference in my temps.


----------



## Sabis

AS5's cure time is it calander hours or operational hours?


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sabis* 
AS5's cure time is it calander hours or operational hours?

operational... it used the heat from the processor to cure...
AS5 is outdated though and there are better alternatives for the price


----------



## Sabis

True normally, but I get it for 4 bucks here and it's the ONLY TIM available locally except for the store brand we carry at work that bites ass.


----------



## staryoshi

I just ordered 1.5g of Diamond IC 7. Going to put it on my CPU and on my GPU. Using Zalman STG2 now.


----------



## Ceadderman

You should try performance-pcs.com and search for Shin-Etsu. The G751 is ranked #1 in the list of 80 TIMs and although AS5 has that 200 hour cure time they are ranked number two.

But if you want a bit more TIM than what's available with the G751(.5 gram) then you might try the X23 paste. It's a little lower on the list. I use it cause nobody seems to have more than .5 grams of G751. Also both grades of TIM are right around $4.

PPCs' is in Florida. I ordered my Filters from them and got them in 4 days up here in Washington. TIM should be to you within 3 days of purchase being as you're that much closer.

8 hour or zero day cure time for both the G751 and the X23.

~Ceadder
 








Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sabis* 
True normally, but I get it for 4 bucks here and it's the ONLY TIM available locally except for the store brand we carry at work that bites ass.


----------



## KruperTrooper

Shin-Etsu. Best stuff out there.


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KruperTrooper* 
Shin-Etsu. Best stuff out there.

thats questionable, the 80 TIM review had the top ten within 0.5C, which is more than within human error


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OutOfBalanceOX*


thats questionable, the 80 TIM review had the top ten within 0.5C, which is more than within human error


And the supposed outdated AS5 is at the top of the list too. So even if you think it is outdated it doesn't matter it still performs and in the end that's what matters. Who cares about buying the newest/latest tech in TIM if it performs the same or possibly even worse than it's predecessors.


----------



## Magus2727

... how long does an unopend container of TIM last? I have gotten a few in the past and then when i got my heat shink it always had it on... so I have 3 different un-opend tube's ranging from 5 years to 3 months... I may try to reseat the H50 from the mass of stock thermal paste that same stock....


----------



## Ceadderman

*Edit*I don't know what the shelf life of TIM is. I do have a 20 gram tube of Ceramique laying around that's never even been used. Cause as someone pointed out most everything comes with TIM pre-applied.







*ediT*

The pastes listed in the Excellent Performance page of the review are all very good. If you have one of them no need to rush out and get a new TIM unless you are not happy with the cure time. That's about the only reason I will suggest buying Shin-Etsu over TIMs like AS5, AS3, IC7 and TtG A2150. Also a moderate viscosity is pretty nice. Too thin and you risk it squeezing out(when too much is applied) and too thick and you risk not getting a consistent spread.

But every one of those TIMs on this page (A: Excellent Performance) are averaging between 38.25c and 37.55c

Does human error play a part? Sure, you bet it does. But since you can never take human error out of it and you can't account for the extent of it, you have to somewhat ignore it.

If I could get more than a half gram tube of the stuff, I would get the G751 paste. As it is the best amount I could get was a single gram of X23. I could get more than one but I don't want it to sit around and possibly be wasted.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *OutOfBalanceOX*


thats questionable, the 80 TIM review had the top ten within 0.5C, which is more than within human error


----------



## Lune

Just mounted the H50 on my old i7 975 to try it with :>

I know the voltages are way to low.. but it simply doesn't crash anywhere lmao.. even in Prime95.. pro chip is pro.

http://www.overclock.net/attachment....1&d=1278012452


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lune*


Just mounted the H50 on my old i7 975 to try it with :>

I know the voltages are way to low.. but it simply doesn't crash anywhere lmao.. even in Prime95.. pro chip is pro.

http://www.overclock.net/attachment....1&d=1278012452


Wholy crap batman... you got a 3 monitor eyefinit of or something? that screen shot is crazy!

Edit: yep you do...

I need to get me one of them.. or 3...


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lune*


Just mounted the H50 on my old i7 975 to try it with :>

I know the voltages are way to low.. but it simply doesn't crash anywhere lmao.. even in Prime95.. pro chip is pro.

http://www.overclock.net/attachment....1&d=1278012452


its too small to read.....


----------



## Lune

****ing hell I am sorry.. can't see anything... gonna turn off the monitors and remake the picture >< sigh


----------



## Lune

Okey I really suck at this.. tried with 1 screen, but it's the same **** (Better) but still ;x

I just copied my 3x screen pic with a single monitor lmao
http://www.overclock.net/attachment....1&d=1278012909


----------



## Magus2727

I have a 32 inch tv as a extended monitor so I feel your pain... i use gimp or photoshop to then take the pasted image and crop it then save just what I want... I think you can do it in word and save just the image out also....


----------



## Magus2727

OT but do you really have 2x 5970's? and a i7 980x







that must be one Kick A$$ comp! what do you use all that power for?


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


OT but do you really have 2x 5970's? and a i7 980x







that must be one Kick A$$ comp! what do you use all that power for?


i wouldnt doubt it, MacG32 has a 980x, 2 5970's and a gts 250 for physx. oh and did i mention he has 24GB of ram?


----------



## Lune

I have 4x 5970 (2 here and 2 on my main pc with the 980x) (Testing right now on my brother's rig with eyefinity) I also have eyefinity on mine but with 980x @ 4.6









To best honest I cba buying the new 4GB model.. not gonna make any difference.. just gonna wait for 6xxx series since I have already tried 4x 480 in SLI aswell and I am not impressed plus I am temperature whore


----------



## Ceadderman

That and WOW that task bar is full.









Wall to wall even.









Try to adjust the magnification in your Paint or whatever program you're transferring your printscreen to.









~Ceadder


----------



## Lune

Way easier to access things like this mate :> I hate having many things on my desktop so taskbar is better for me 

Thanks for the paint suggestion


----------



## Ceadderman

lol, no problem. I shouldn't talk. My XP desktop (stuck with it for the moment) has alot of stuff on it. I hate the clutter but being that I'm not wanting to add needless clutter to my Win 7 drive I'm using the XP drive.

I get my MoBo back tomorrow(hopefully) so when I get it back I'm going to pick off the stuff I want to hold on to from the XP drive and then format it with a partition to shortstroke it for Win7 then I'll transfer my Win7 stuff over to the fresh install and shortstroke that one to RAID them. At least I hope I can. So that means I'm stuck on a dinky netbook for a day or so. Too bad they don't make H50s' for notebook and netbook platforms.







lol

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lune* 
Way easier to access things like this mate :> I hate having many things on my desktop so taskbar is better for me 

Thanks for the paint suggestion


----------



## digital_steve

Hmm... confusing
Everyone still talks about AS5, but MX-3 out performs that according to their own website.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *digital_steve* 
Hmm... confusing
Everyone still talks about AS5, but MX-3 out performs that according to their own website.

Just get some Gelid GC extreme and be done with it


----------



## digital_steve

Well... i have some AS5 and some MX-3 on hand, so i'm trying to decide between the 2. I'd rather not buy anything else whilst having 2 on hand


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *digital_steve* 
Well... i have some AS5 and some MX-3 on hand, so i'm trying to decide between the 2. I'd rather not buy anything else whilst having 2 on hand

I say use the MX-3 and compare your results to others that have the same CPU and similar fans using AS5









I have same CPU and list my fans I am using and I am using AS5.


----------



## Ceadderman

Good if you're in the same room. Bad if you're in another part of the world.

Ambients my friend. Ambients.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
I say use the MX-3 and compare your results to others that have the same CPU and similar fans using AS5









I have same CPU and list my fans I am using and I am using AS5.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Good if you're in the same room. Bad if you're in another part of the world.

Ambients my friend. Ambients.









~Ceadder









Sorta...Just have to add in the difference in ambients.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes and no. Since humity plays a part in overall temp you can't really duplicate the same results in the real world environment.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Sorta...Just have to add in the difference in ambients.


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Good if you're in the same room. Bad if you're in another part of the world.

Ambients my friend. Ambients.









~Ceadder









thats why most people worry about the ΔT and not the max temp, as far as benchmarks go


----------



## WTHbot

So I just installed my H50, and I must say it's alot heavier then I though it would be. . .

Oh and it dropped my temps by 20c, and my new fan configuration has my gpu also under control(earlier today it was idling at 80+c now it's lower then 60 at load.)

Once I get my new case though this system will be given a major overhaul on airflow.

So far I am so impressed at this cooler coming from a Hyper 212+.


----------



## Sabis

Yeah, here it's very hot and very dry. Usually about 80f in my room. But west texas tends to be light on humidity.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sabis*


Yeah, here it's very hot and very dry. Usually about 80f in my room. But west texas tends to be light on humidity.


It is hot and humid outside here but inside it stays dry and 22c.(about 72f)


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


So I just installed my H50, and I must say it's alot heavier then I though it would be. . .

Oh and it dropped my temps by 20c, and my new fan configuration has my gpu also under control(earlier today it was idling at 80+c now it's lower then 60 at load.)

Once I get my new case though this system will be given a major overhaul on airflow.

So far I am so impressed at this cooler coming from a Hyper 212+.


You went down 20c after switching from a CM 212?


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ThumperSD*


You went down 20c after switching from a CM 212?


And re-doing my fans. I did a complete thermal overhaul today.

This is an older build and a lot of the parts were absolutely choked for airflow. It's also in a no-name case I got for $5 at a yard sale which was to blame. I'm getting a NZXT Gamma in a few days and some better fans overall. But yes I dropped from 80c to about 60c on my graphics card and about 15c on my cpu(from 50+ now to mid 30's.)


----------



## Ceadderman

_*Ick*_









Better airflow in a HAF. But anything is better than a no name case.







lol

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


And re-doing my fans. I did a complete thermal overhaul today.

This is an older build and a lot of the parts were absolutely choked for airflow. It's also in a no-name case I got for $5 at a yard sale which was to blame. I'm getting a *NZXT Gamma* in a few days and some better fans overall. But yes I dropped from 80c to about 60c on my graphics card and about 15c on my cpu(from 50+ now to mid 30's.)


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
_*Ick*_









Better airflow in a HAF. But anything is better than a no name case.







lol

~Ceadder









30 bucks shipped isn't bad and from what I've seen for the money you can't do any better. I was going to get a CM 690 II but what ever I should be fine with the Gamma for a while.


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
30 bucks shipped isn't bad and from what I've seen *for the money you can't do any better*. I was going to get a CM 690 II but what ever I should be fine with the Gamma for a while.

for a budget build, its the only case i would use.


----------



## Dan17z

Whoop Whoop got a H50 a few days ago. Like the temp drop from my Mugen 2, But I think it was most likely bad reseats. (the thing is huge and hard to get a grip on) [Thats what she said. LOL]
will be ordering 2 Gentle Typhoons also hoping to get better results.

Oh and could someone add me to the club?


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *OutOfBalanceOX* 
for a budget build, its the only case i would use.

Yeah that was sorta the point. This system isn't exactly what I would call up to date. AMD 64 x2 6400+, HD4850, IDE drives(sata ports are dead sadly.) MSI K9A2 Platinium. I didn't feel like busting my bank over a case when I could get a gamma for so much cheaper. That plus this has all the features I could want.


----------



## Ceadderman

Wow that's a pretty solid budget deal for $30. Nice score.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
30 bucks shipped isn't bad and from what I've seen for the money you can't do any better. I was going to get a CM 690 II but what ever I should be fine with the Gamma for a while.


----------



## kamilowski

sorry about the newb question but is it best to install it as Intake or Exhaust?

Cheers


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kamilowski* 
sorry about the newb question but is it best to install it as Intake or Exhaust?

Cheers

That really depends on your case and your fan configuration.

Oh and just so you guys know clicky.


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
I say use the MX-3 and compare your results to others that have the same CPU and similar fans using AS5









I have same CPU and list my fans I am using and I am using AS5.

Dunno if that's the way to go
I'm just interested as to why AS5 is rated so high but you don't hear anything about MX-3, which according to the companies site is their newer thing and outdoes AS5 significantly as well as having no cure time.

Weird


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *digital_steve* 
Dunno if that's the way to go
I'm just interested as to why AS5 is rated so high but you don't hear anything about MX-3, which according to the companies site is their newer thing and outdoes AS5 significantly as well as having no cure time.

Weird









It's because AS5 used to be king,about 4 years ago we didn't have much better then AS5 and what was good was good at a cost. AS5 is starting to show it's age and a lot better paste is coming around.

Personally if I have to apply paste, I will use my trusty bottle of AS5 just because of the "ole faithful," stigma I have for it.


----------



## kamilowski

I'm using the antec 900 case with standard fans, no side window fan.
I'm planning to OC the cpu.

What would be the better option for me?


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
It's because AS5 used to be king,about 4 years ago we didn't have much better then AS5 and what was good was good at a cost. AS5 is starting to show it's age and a lot better paste is coming around.

Personally if I have to apply paste, I will use my trusty bottle of AS5 just because of the "ole faithful," stigma I have for it.

Might stick with the MX-3 for the same reason then!


----------



## Wingzero

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kamilowski* 
I'm using the antec 900 case with standard fans, no side window fan.
I'm planning to OC the cpu.

What would be the better option for me?

Corsair h50 would provide better cooling than your current CPU cooler IMO.


----------



## kamilowski

Thanks but Im actually trying to find out if it is better to install it as Exhaust or Intake?


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kamilowski* 
Thanks but Im actually trying to find out if it is better to install it as Exhaust or Intake?

exhaust will provide better temps to the other components (if they need some negative pressure)

intake will provide better temps to the cpu (since it is getting cooler air from outside of the case)


----------



## Ceadderman

Honestly?

I would play around with it in different spots and try both ways and see what gives you your best temps.

I don't mean to be a buzzkill but your ambients are different than our ambients. So we can't give you a proper critique on what works. Also your case is different than mine and mine is different than Joe's(fictional person) case.

That's the kewl thing about this Cooler. That you can mover the Rad around and find that sweet spot for cooling that works for your case and your ambients and your setup.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *kamilowski* 
Thanks but Im actually trying to find out if it is better to install it as Exhaust or Intake?


----------



## AverageGai

Is it okay to have the radiator mounted directly to the case, rather than on a fan?

So it goes like this from the outside in: rear case wall, radiator, exhaust fan.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AverageGai* 
Is it okay to have the radiator mounted directly to the case, rather than on a fan?

So it goes like this from the outside in: rear case wall, radiator, exhaust fan.

It'll be fine just as long as you can find a way to mount it (perhaps using shorter screws)


----------



## kamilowski

great thanks, i'll mount it in the rear top fan slot just under the 200mm bigboy fan. in intake config. maybe pull/push *)

cheers.


----------



## mayford5

Just a not though. If you videocard/s exhausting out the back you def do not want an intake. All the hot air rising from it/them gets sucked directly into the radiator and doesn't cool.

I found this out when my stock 720BE went from 48c at load to 75c at load and the only change was a intake instead of exhaust. Now I have my GPUs on water so its not as bad but still any heat from your videocards or psu will end up in your radiator.


----------



## looser101

I had one of those vapor-x 4890s and the heat dump inside the case was ridiculous. He has 2. My guess is that intake will perform better but it doesn't hurt to try both ways. Push-pull with ~2000rpm fans is what I usually recommend.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
I had one of those vapor-x 4890s and the heat dump inside the case was ridiculous. He has 2. My guess is that intake will perform better but it doesn't hurt to try both ways. Push-pull with ~2000rpm fans is what I usually recommend.

what will doing the H50 as intake do to his GPU temps though???


----------



## looser101

He has a large top exhaust fan. It should draw the hot air out.


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kamilowski*


great thanks, i'll mount it in the rear top fan slot just under the 200mm bigboy fan. in intake config. maybe pull/push *)

cheers.


intake on the top is not that smart. hot air likes to rise and you would have it set the opposite

maybe rear intake?


----------



## Denz

If he has the H50 coming in as intake, he has the chance of his GPUs pushing hot air out of the back, and drawing it back in through the rad.

Also with intake, it will probably cause turbulence for the hot air trying to rise to the top exhaust fan, possibly affecting his GPU temps from the interior air not being circulated out as quickly as with exhausting the H50.

@GuitarGuy

The Rear fan bracket is just underneath the 200mm fan on top (this is pushed towards the rear of the top) on the Antec 900, I think that is what he meant.


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Denz*


If he has the H50 coming in as intake, he has the chance of his GPUs pushing hot air out of the back, and drawing it back in through the rad.

Also with intake, it will probably cause turbulence for the hot air trying to rise to the top exhaust fan, possibly affecting his GPU temps from the interior air not being circulated out as quickly as with exhausting the H50.

@GuitarGuy

The Rear fan bracket is just underneath the 200mm fan on top (this is pushed towards the rear of the top) on the Antec 900, I think that is what he meant.


Vaopr-X doesnt exhaust through the rear. so he is having the H50 intake from the rear fan (just under the big boy 200), and all of the hot air is exhausted through the big boy on top


----------



## Denz

Fair enough, it didn't click with the VaporX till you pointed it out.

I went back a page, I noticed he didn't have a side fan. I have one on the side of my 900 with only 1 VaporX 5770 and it doesn't affect my CPU temps at all with the rad as exhaust. I tried to remount as intake with a little bit worse result (due to being in a corner with low airflow.) However the 4890s were little heat monsters...so he may not get so lucky.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OutOfBalanceOX*


Vaopr-X doesnt exhaust through the rear. so he is having the H50 intake from the rear fan (just under the big boy 200), and all of the hot air is exhausted through the big boy on top


Exactly. Though if it was my rig I would give front intake serious consideration.


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Exactly. Though if it was my rig I would give front intake serious consideration.


I would too, Mine would be set up that way if i had another one of those plastic fan brackets, mine are all used since i have three front intake fans


----------



## mayford5

Intake is probably the best solution in this case.


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay guys can he not mount the kit to the front as an Intake? You 900 guys would know this better than I would. Is there a spot for intake at the front of the 900? Even if it's only on one of the HDD racks? That's if the 900 uses the earlier style of HDD cages. I dunno s'why I'm axin.









~Ceadder


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Okay guys can he not mount the kit to the front as an Intake? You 900 guys would know this better than I would. Is there a spot for intake at the front of the 900? Even if it's only on one of the HDD racks? That's if the 900 uses the earlier style of HDD cages. I dunno s'why I'm axin.









~Ceadder










I think he said something about using all three of his spaces for intake already but no reason he couldn't swap out one of them for the H50 setup.


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Okay guys can he not mount the kit to the front as an Intake? You 900 guys would know this better than I would. Is there a spot for intake at the front of the 900? Even if it's only on one of the HDD racks? That's if the 900 uses the earlier style of HDD cages. I dunno s'why I'm axin.









~Ceadder










you can, all that is need is one of the black fan mounts for the hdd bays


----------



## Ceadderman

Right, so then I also would suggest some fan silencers to seal it up and to keep unwanted vibrations from going back into the HDD cage as well as back to the H50 unit.









I'm thinking after all the input provided that his best setup would be intake at that spot and if I'm thinking correctly that would also help assist cooling on the GPU area. Or am I off on the location here?









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *OutOfBalanceOX*


you can, all that is need is one of the black fan mounts for the hdd bays


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Ok, got my warranty-replacement PSU and MB so I'm up and running again.

Right now I'm back to just the R4 as push on the rad. I gutted a clear 120mm that came with my case, since I only use R4s, because I want to use it as a shroud between the push fan and the rad.

My question is...what screws are people using that go through the fan + shroud and thread in to the rad? Do I have to find some at a local hardware store, or order them online? Or is there another way that I'm not aware of? Without a pull fan, my idle temp is about 35c with an ambient of around 75-80f, on Zalman STG-1 compound.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *johnny.dot.exe* 
Ok, got my warranty-replacement PSU and MB so I'm up and running again.

Right now I'm back to just the R4 as push on the rad. I gutted a clear 120mm that came with my case, since I only use R4s, because I want to use it as a shroud between the push fan and the rad.

My question is...what screws are people using that go through the fan + shroud and thread in to the rad? Do I have to find some at a local hardware store, or order them online? Or is there another way that I'm not aware of? Without a pull fan, my idle temp is about 35c with an ambient of around 75-80f, on Zalman STG-1 compound.

Here you go man







Link appoved by YellowBeard "corsair tech" oh yeah + shroud i think 2 inch or 3 the awnser is always pages and pages back. The pitch is the key as you can always cut the excess off with a hacksaw or dremel. But people here in this thread have done so many many times. I guess its just a matter of length now and that will depend on what shroud/fans you use I.E 25mm/38mm

http://forums.hexus.net/water-coolin...or-screws.html

*@Killhouse please make some stickys on the first page so its not 1100 pages of the same thing"Intake/exhaust. Fans/Push/pull. Shrouds. I know you can only do so much and i apperciate your effort on this thread*


----------



## Ceadderman

Hypothesis, what happens if you mount the H50 too tight? Could it bottleneck your CPU and cause the system not to Post with all 4 slots filled? I guess this could apply to all aftermarket CPU coolers.









~Ceadder


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Well, I used little screws to mount the shroud to the push-side of the rad. I then zip-tied the R4 to the other side of the shroud. Nice and tight.

Problem...tried adding a pull fan on the other side of the rad. This made the whole assembly too long, and it interferes with the top side-panel fan. I moved the pull fan to the outside of the case, so it would be mounted on back, this interfered with the side-panel itself. The only real option I have if I want a pull fan without removing the shroud, is to trim that right edge of the fan's frame so it doesn't interfere with the panel going on. I'm thinking about 1/16" off should make it work, but will be hard to make it clean and even with a dremel + cutting wheel.

Anyways, just the shroud dropped my idle temp from 35c to 32c. Can't wait to see what adding a pull fan does, then switching out my Zalman STG-1 for IC Diamond. Maybe 28-29c...that'd be nice.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Hypothesis, what happens if you mount the H50 too tight? Could it bottleneck your CPU and cause the system not to Post with all 4 slots filled? I guess this could apply to all aftermarket CPU coolers.









~Ceadder









Got Dragon age on pause but WHAT?























@Johnny

Do you have a hand held belt sander? If so just lighty shave of that 1/16th of clearence you need.

If you have a grinder or dremel just shave off what you need from the bolts you can get from home depot or lowes

@Ceadderman make sure he has the right pitch


----------



## Ceadderman

My apologies. I was speaking of my own issues. I recently RMA'd my MoBo thinking the 3rd slot dropped out.

Nope, wasn't the case at all. In fact the H50 was too tight. And I didn't tighten it that much. Still got great temps but too much pressure on the 3rd Core bottlenecked the RAM. No wonder it wouldn't Post with 4 sticks.









Then on top of that once I took that pressure off, I had to take the pressure off the NB Core(4th I think) as it wouldn't make it past my GPU to Post. Once I got it to post







... until I stood it up and set it at my desk. Once it went vertical I had to start that all over again.

Now stupid Win 7 doesn't want to work.









finally just said iuck ft and went back to XP side so I could get online. Got the fans dialed in though. Sure makes a difference going to 70/50% power.

Well anyway pretty wiped out right now. But at least I finally got the RAM issue sorted out.







I guess I don't know my own strength. lol

~Ceadder


----------



## looser101

Just saw this posted in the Watercooling forum.

Skinnee Labs - Corsair H50


----------



## ntshabbyShawn

well with a push pull setup with 2 Cooler Master R4-L2R , with the fans intaking into the case I have a stable OC to 4 GHz with top temps at 75C. now its on to the benchmarks !
posted the picks in my profile ! thanks for having me in the H50 club !!


----------



## Ceadderman

Definitely don't want to overtighten one. Cause you're definitely not stable. @ the moment I've got the CPU out, cleaned of TIM and the H50 cleaned and ready to go. But this is the first time I've been indecisive about any component on my system and that's scary. I'm considering removing the H50(for now) and reapplying the stock cooler to see what's up.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ceadderman

I'm really not liking this version of their lock ring.

























As you can see in the first photo it LOOKS like the screws are lined up and seated on their mounts. 
This couldn't be further from the truth. As you can see in picture two.
In picture three you can see that I have it pre-locked in and it's 100% on the CPU.

Imho, there is no possible way to mount this thing w/o putting too much pressure on the CPU with this setup. This may be an issue with the AM3 socket. But I should have been at least able to mount it w/o hassle. I even changed up the thickness of mounting tape to 1/8 inch so I could mount this thing.

What sucks is I won't be able to do a damn thing about this at least until Tuesday.

But...









I'm changing out the AM3 bosses for the Intel ones. They seem to be a little longer and as you can see I get a better outcome....

Checking the lengths right now with the old micrometer they look to be the same depth. But I put them on a flat surface and looked and I can definitely see the difference.










This leads me to believe the AM3 bosses should be trashed and instead I'll be using the Intel bosses with the AM3 bracket.

Will know more in a bit.

~Ceadder


----------



## Ceadderman

Hello yet again...

As you can see here I finally have some thread in the backing plate boss...










Same for the other side. In fact all four were the same...










And look at that beautiful sight...










I actually have cleararance to move the pump and lock it into place with the lock ring. If this works like I believe it will work then the included AM3 bosses along with their instructions are crap. Corsair should not even include such misinformation(this is a clear case of it imho) as it cost me $11 bucks for the RMA and could have cost me more because RMA of the RAM was next if I didn't get this figured out.

High regard for the Cooler poor regard for the AM3 kit.









I'll be updating my Review of the H50 with Newegg to reflect this. But for now I just want to get this thing back together, get it stable and roll on.









~Ceadder


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

I had no problems at all with my AM3 kit.


----------



## Ceadderman

Which boss inserts did you use the single hole bosses or the double hole bosses?

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny.dot.exe*


I had no problems at all with my AM3 kit.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well part of the problem was the steel insert @ lower right quadrant worked itself out and had contacted the case and wore through my paint. Don't know if it was contributing to my destabilization issues but it wasn't mounted correctly there.

Now that I changed the iplastic bosses over the mounting went much smoother.

~Ceadder


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Well part of the problem was the steel insert @ lower right quadrant worked itself out and had contacted the case and wore through my paint. Don't know if it was contributing to my destabilization issues but it wasn't mounted correctly there.

Now that I changed the iplastic bosses over the mounting went much smoother.

~Ceadder










I had no trouble using the whole setup intended for the AM3 except for the doubled sided tape. There was no reason to use that at all. Mine held itself in place by itself but just for precaution I used some electrical tape to hold it for certain till I got it all screwed in place.

Have had no trouble with it being too tight or loose or anything actually went together the first time and haven't touched the pump since. Only thing that I changes was adding fans/shrouds and the location of them.


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Yeah, used all the AM3 mounting components and followed the directions every step of the way. Not a single issue except the skill needed to insert, turn and lock the pump in place without smearing your thermal compound.

Oh...take note of the pump after you remove it from the CPU, specifically the thermal compound left on the copper plate. The "square" of compound leftover isn't in the square area of the plate, it will be off-center and most likely covering one of the screw holes for that copper plate. When the pump is at exactly 12 o'clock, based off of the hoses and Corsair logo, the square CPU area of the copper plate is actually at like 11 o'clock, if that makes sense. When I get around to upgrading my thermal compound, I'll try to get a picture of this. Due to this pump/plate design, and the mounting bracket, I am so far unable to center the square area of the copper plate on the CPU. Turning the pump one notch, overshoots my goal...so the exact center I'm needing is between tabs/notches on that mounting bracket. Terrible design flaw.


----------



## Ceadderman

No offense meant so please take this with a grain of salt.

How the hell do you know what I'm dealing with here if you didn't use the suplied tape or at least thinner mounting tape.

I used both. The supplied tape was way too thick.

Being that I want to combat vibration I applied 1/8 inch Scotch brand mounting tape.

I have found that in BOTH instances that you could not mount the H50 as instructed. It put way too much pressure on the CPU and my system would not make it past DRAM in Post Process with the thick stuff on. With the thin stuff I had to manipulate the mounting screws enough to get it to Post. Cause there is no way on God's green earth that 2 MoBos' are going to have DRAM issues(which is what I thought I had) especially when I RMA'ed the 1st one and the replacement Board started doing the exact same things. So I had to go back and look at what had changed. I was running the stock cooler and it worked fine. Temps were a little high but that's due to it being a stock cooler. The H50 was the only thing that I can change (can't unlapp my CPU) but I've noticed that even though I am now back up and running, soon as I position my system upright I start having issues again. Right back to not Posting.

It's extremely frustrating cause I have crap to do. Instead I'm stuck here working on a system that for all intents and purposes runs fine. I fired it up this morning and the Graffix weren't stable the temps starting jumping up like I had a bonfire under it, and had to shut it down. Now I'm running between 34c and 36c but I doubt that lasts for long cause it looks like I may yet again have to reseat this thing and it's pissing me off.

But comparing what you did to what I'm going through doesn't cut it with me cause you used electrical tape. And unless they started making ET thicker than a C hair, you won't understand what I'm saying. The plastic AM3 bosses are crap. They aren't worth the electricity to make let alone recycle. I couldn't even get the kit to do what Jeff @ Corsair showed how to do. The only way I could mount the friggin thing was to put the ring ON the pump and then go at it with each screw, all while being completely married to the CPU. There was not one bit of play in the mounting.

Now I realize that you got it to work by dropping the tape entirely, but I really couldn't do that as my lower two mounting points are covered by my MoBo tray.

Understand NOW why I'm not happy? I'm OCD and if it won't work as advertised I'll get it to work but I will not be happy about what I had to go through to get it to work.

This cost me money I should not have had to pay. I doubt that if I did have Corsair in the same room that they could have diagnosed my problems. Hell Newegg RMA'ed my MoBo without a sencond thought and this was AFTER I had told them that I just mounted my H50.

Thanks for the input I don't mean to come off as unappreciative. Just a bit frazzled and peeved about what's going on with my system.









~Ceadder










Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I had no trouble using the whole setup intended for the AM3 except for the doubled sided tape. There was no reason to use that at all. Mine held itself in place by itself but just for precaution I used some electrical tape to hold it for certain till I got it all screwed in place.

Have had no trouble with it being too tight or loose or anything actually went together the first time and haven't touched the pump since. Only thing that I changes was adding fans/shrouds and the location of them.


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Is it possible that those plastic bosses aren't sitting right with the back plate or the metal threaded inserts in that backplate? Or that maybe one of the two aren't sitting in the MB holes? We may not have the same boards, but AM3 is AM3, so there shouldn't be a difference...may just be a flawed part in your Corsair mounting supplies, or something just isn't sitting right with something else.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well my lower backplate bosses were working themselves out. But I think that was due to the AM3 lockring bosses being crap. I had to hold the Pump pretty tight to the CPU to get ONE screw started. Then like changing a tire I went to the opposite screw and did the same thing. All with the pump in the ring.

They show in the Vid where you don't start the screws but just a bit to aid in finding the steel bosses and seat the ring. Not on my best day could I do that with either boss set. Finally I changed the Intel Bosses into the Ring and started the screws til they were clear of the plastic. I then threaded each one into the inserts about a quarter turn or so. After that I could mount my Pump w/o forcing the thing on.

However, I'm STILL sitting on my Netbook at this time because the damn thing started failing my input devices and while it will post laying on its side it won't post standing up. I'm pretty peeved and about ready to say screw this PoS. The only good thing that is coming of this is I know what Core controls what, from my CPU. Upper Right Quadrant is RAM, Lower Left Quadrant is GPU, Upper Left is Drives and Lower Right is Input Devices.

I know this because my MoBo is the Bomb with it's Post Sequence LED feature and MANY hours of trying to get this nuckinfutty PoS to work.

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *johnny.dot.exe* 
Is it possible that those plastic bosses aren't sitting right with the back plate or the metal threaded inserts in that backplate? Or that maybe one of the two aren't sitting in the MB holes? We may not have the same boards, but AM3 is AM3, so there shouldn't be a difference...may just be a flawed part in your Corsair mounting supplies, or something just isn't sitting right with something else.


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

That's weird how pressure to the heat spreader of the CPU is causing those problems. I've really torqued down on heatsinks and waterblocks in my day, and never had that problem. I'm honestly at a loss for words.









Hopefully you can get that sorted out pretty quick. I'm having some issues on my build currently. My idle temp is around 33-35c with an ambient of 82f...using Zalman STG-1, H50 with rad on rear of case(pull / case / rad / shroud / push), mesh cut from top/rear/front-lower fan areas, all R4 120mm fans. What's likely hurting me is my high ambient temp. It's seriously 20f hotter in this room than it is outside right now. This is because...

1. This room is top floor of house. It stays pretty hot upstairs during the summer, day or night. I'm also right above the laundry room and water heater.

2. I have an incubator keeping some snake eggs at about 85f for the next 5-6 weeks.

3. This PC puts off heat.

So even though the central A/C is on, I've got three sources of heat in this room. I may just toss some cash at a decent window a/c unit, that'd solve the problem real quick.


----------



## TweakerNoob

If I lived in Misery..er um Missouri, I would have one in each window.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny.dot.exe*


I may just toss some cash at a decent window a/c unit, that'd solve the problem real quick.


----------



## Ceadderman

I may FINALLY have things sorted out. The mounting is still crap. Please do not mistake that. I used the correct bosses(single hole bosses) as identified by the Corsair literature. Finally after breaking my neck twice trying to get the damn thing mounted I changed them out to the double boss units and set the clips to the inside as the AM3 bosses are set. Got that worked out.

Well after about turning myself bald, I decided to try reapplication of TIM and reseat of H50. This time the entire surface got a good liberal application of X23. From the way it's acting now I'd say that Pressure as well as Heat was responsible for my issues as the TIM I had on the CPU while reasonable did not cover the entire surface. This time I applied and pulled the Pump to see how my TIM looked. It was still a bit shy of reasonable so I applied a tad more to the areas that weren't covered, applied and when I picked it up it was much better. I actually feel it's safe enough that I'm currently downloading Catalyst Driver 10.5. I think that I have 10.6 on my XP drive and it's artifacting my CPUID monitor when I go to drag it across the screen to move it out of my way. We'll see if it works. Earlier I didn't dare DL anything as it just blasted my system. Now I'm running 33c-38c temps Min/Max. This morning I was at 49c having just fired up and it definitely was NOT stable.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny.dot.exe*


That's weird how pressure to the heat spreader of the CPU is causing those problems. I've really torqued down on heatsinks and waterblocks in my day, and never had that problem. I'm honestly at a loss for words.









Hopefully you can get that sorted out pretty quick. I'm having some issues on my build currently. My idle temp is around 33-35c with an ambient of 82f...using Zalman STG-1, H50 with rad on rear of case(pull / case / rad / shroud / push), mesh cut from top/rear/front-lower fan areas, all R4 120mm fans. What's likely hurting me is my high ambient temp. It's seriously 20f hotter in this room than it is outside right now. This is because...

1. This room is top floor of house. It stays pretty hot upstairs during the summer, day or night. I'm also right above the laundry room and water heater.

2. I have an incubator keeping some snake eggs at about 85f for the next 5-6 weeks.

3. This PC puts off heat.

So even though the central A/C is on, I've got three sources of heat in this room. I may just toss some cash at a decent window a/c unit, that'd solve the problem real quick.


----------



## Muntey

Hi guys, I just ordered myself an H50 and have been looking at getting some proper fans for it. I have had a look at these and they seem all right, would you recommend them? I just want to get a second opinion on them as I want to pick them up from the store and it's an hour bus ride...


----------



## Ceadderman

Well I've figured out the CPU is not the problem. Replaced it with known working Athlon II and no post with 4 sticks of RAM. H50 is not the problem either as that happened with the Stock 955 BE cooler that I replaced the H50 with. H50 is still mounted and ready to go once I figure out what the hell exactly is going on. My Bro has 8 Gigs of Ripjaws, so I'm thinking on swapping my sticks to his system and vice versa to see if it is RAM. But I'm seriously doubting it as I'm right back to Slots 1 & 2.









All I know is having a hard time mounting the cooler exasperated my last good nerve and this Post issue has stretched it taught.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ceadderman

Meh. R4s' are okay but their expensive. If you can get them I suggest Yate Loons in either High or Medium speeds. They don't hit 90cfm but the HS flavor is close with 88cfm and the Mediums are about 77 cfm +/-. I can get those here in the States for $4 each no matter the speed. So I figure you'll be spending just a bit more for them but not much.

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Muntey* 
Hi guys, I just ordered myself an H50 and have been looking at getting some proper fans for it. I have had a look at these and they seem all right, would you recommend them? I just want to get a second opinion on them as I want to pick them up from the store and it's an hour bus ride...


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Yeah, ambient temp is what's killing my idle temp.

It's 79.5f in here right now, with an idle CPU temp of 33c and core temps of 37c. Last night it was around 83-84f with an idle CPU temp of 35c and core temps of about 40-41c. I can probably combat this a little, maybe 1-2c, if I upgrade the thermal compound.


----------



## johnny.dot.exe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Meh. R4s' are okay but their expensive. If you can get them I suggest Yate Loons in either High or Medium speeds. They don't hit 90cfm but the HS flavor is close with 88cfm and the Mediums are about 77 cfm +/-. I can get those here in the States for $4 each no matter the speed. So I figure you'll be spending just a bit more for them but not much.

~Ceadder










Is there a way to find out the air pressure ratings of the fans? If I'm correct, the R4 don't have this "air pressure" needed to push that air through the rad, read about it in this thread somewhere. I was looking at getting loons for the rad, or maybe those high-end Scythes.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny.dot.exe*


Is there a way to find out the air pressure ratings of the fans? If I'm correct, the R4 don't have this "air pressure" needed to push that air through the rad, read about it in this thread somewhere. I was looking at getting loons for the rad, or maybe those high-end Scythes.


R4s have very good static pressure and they work very well. They are very cheaply made though.


----------



## WTHbot

The H%0's rad is so thin that even the weakest of fans can still perform better then expected. You really don't need to worry so much about Static pressure unless you on a DIY Loop with one of those huge rads.


----------



## Archer S

i just reseated my H50 because one of my cores was always a good 5 degrees below all the other cores.

guess what i found? Half of the water block was not touching the cpu at all. Literally the left side of the cpu was squeaky clean, and the left side on the cooler still had new thermal paste on it, unsmeared.

Here are the horrifically low definition pictures (sorry i dont have a good camera):

















Now what pushed me to re-seat the cooler were my temperatures. 3 of my cores were idling 38-40, and one was idling 35. well now after re-seating the cooler 3 of my cores idle 35-37 except for one (the same one as before) is now idling at 32, significantly lower than the other cores again. So whats going on, is there a GIANT air bubble covering half my cpu again? Did i overtighten it on one side causing poor contact, again? Because i didnt tighten it very much at all.

Oh forgot to mention after re-seating i used arctic silver 5, in a small pea size in the middle of the cpu, and then just pressed the cooler down having it spread the paste on its own.


----------



## Bodycount

@Ceadderman

Sorry about your problems i know how you feel.
















This is starting to sound like a bad ground issue "with mobo and case" and being how the mobo was RMA'ed have you tried to take everything out of your case and bench testing the system on a cardboard box? I've seen stranger things happen.

Just a option to check off and save a few strands of hair









EDIT:

The more i think about it if it was a grounding issue it shouldn't matter if the case was standing or laying down.

Back to the drawing board?


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Archer S*


i just reseated my H50 because one of my cores was always a good 5 degrees below all the other cores.

guess what i found? Half of the water block was not touching the cpu at all. Literally the left side of the cpu was squeaky clean, and the left side on the cooler still had new thermal paste on it, unsmeared.

Now what pushed me to re-seat the cooler were my temperatures. 3 of my cores were idling 38-40, and one was idling 35. well now after re-seating the cooler 3 of my cores idle 35-37 except for one (the same one as before) is now idling at 32, significantly lower than the other cores again. So whats going on, is there a GIANT air bubble covering half my cpu again? Did i overtighten it on one side causing poor contact, again? Because i didnt tighten it very much at all.

Oh forgot to mention after re-seating i used arctic silver 5, in a small pea size in the middle of the cpu, and then just pressed the cooler down having it spread the paste on its own.


Your last core will always run a little cooler and artic silver 5 takes atleast 200 hours of cure time.


----------



## Archer S

okay so the cooler core isnt a problem, thanks for clearing it up, but that giant air bubble still shocked me. 0_o half the cpu not touching heat sink at all.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Archer S* 
okay so the cooler core isnt a problem, thanks for clearing it up, but that giant air bubble still shocked me. 0_o half the cpu not touching heat sink at all.


No Problem








Just always remember when tighting the screws tighten them in a offset pattern.

EXAMPLE:

Tighten the top left a little.. then the bottom right a little... and so on and so fourth.
This way the pressure gets distributed evenly


----------



## Archer S

yeah thats what i did the first time too, w/e i closed the side panel and my temps are the same as before now, just waiting for the paste to burn in


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Archer S* 
yeah thats what i did the first time too, w/e i closed the side panel and my temps are the same as before now, just waiting for the paste to burn in









Just so you know the core on the inside of the metal heatspreader on the cpu is only a fraction of the total area the cooler will touch. Yes having pockets is not good but as long as the core is still making contact then you should be fine.

Also in my experience, I've never actually witnessed AS5 drop in temps after the cure time. I believe it is more gradual that from 1-200 hours it drops the temps gradually.

What are your average temps right now?


----------



## Archer S

Quote:



Just so you know the core on the inside of the metal heatspreader on the cpu is only a fraction of the total area the cooler will touch. Yes having pockets is not good but as long as the core is still making contact then you should be fine.

Also in my experience, I've never actually witnessed AS5 drop in temps after the cure time. I believe it is more gradual that from 1-200 hours it drops the temps gradually.

What are your average temps right now?


Right now 35 38 38 37, but i was just playing a game. My friend got AS5 under his heatsink, and it did gradually improve the temps, on the first day after install he idled 42, now he idles 38 ish

About the core, thats good to know, thanks a lot.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Archer S*


Right now 35 38 38 37, but i was just playing a game. My friend got AS5 under his heatsink, and it did gradually improve the temps, on the first day after install he idled 42, now he idles 38 ish

About the core, thats good to know, thanks a lot.


Those are way to low, get to OC'ing right now! haha


----------



## Archer S

Quote:



Those are way to low, get to OC'ing right now! haha










lol i was planning to do exactly that right after i bought new fans. Cant decide between GTs an Yate Loons. u know i want the cooling setup to be complete before i try to get 4.0ghz


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Archer S*


lol i was planning to do exactly that right after i bought new fans. Cant decide between GTs an Yate Loons. u know i want the cooling setup to be complete before i try to get 4.0ghz


Though both of those fans gt my seal of approval I would go ahead and try for it.

Skinne Labs found that dual GT's($30 of fans) is only 2c cooler then stock corsair fan in pull. I wouldn't buy GT's unless I thought I was going for a real loop later. Otherwise go with Medium yates, there cheap, affective, and look arguably better then GT's(unless your into painting fans.) Overall I'm pretty sure you will get the OC you want with great temps especially on that CPU.


----------



## Archer S

sweet thanks for the encouragement. I plan to go full water cooling after im done university, so in 5 years or so, to long to actually matter. Yate loons it is.


----------



## Ceadderman

Thanks BC.

Earlier when the H50 was being a bugger, it COULD have been a grounding problem. As one of the steel inserts worked itself out(no downward pressure is good) and had spun a nice little bare spot in the tray. No paint and no grey powder coat remained. But I pulled the MoBo back up and fixed both issues. Good thing I have a paint that handles metals. I love my Rustoleum.









Anyway I swapped out the H50 and am using the stock cooler. Tried running 8 Gigs of Corsair RAM and still wouldn't post. I've swapped out the 955 BE(thought maybe I took the lapping too far







) for an Athlon II, with no positive results. So the 955 BE went back in place. Then just a bit ago I glommed onto my Bros 8 Gig set of Ripjaws, thinking that maybe it is RAM. Shelved the 8 Gigs of Dominators and tried that. Nope still would not make it past DRAM, leading me to believe that it's not GPU as the light never gets that far with 8 Gigs.

So I'm down to 2 options. PSU and Drivers. Considering I've posted with both my HDDs', I'm just going to omit those for the time being. I may have to undervolt my GPU for a short time to see if I can get the system to Post with my 500w OCZ, kind of wish I had a cheap PCIE GPU on hand but my bro is running onboard on his system so about the only thing I can do is swap it over to his system and try firing it up and see what happens. I really hope that it's drivers.









I apologize if I covered everything before hand other than the RAM, I'm just working out the ole mental chops to see if I missed anything. Before anyone asks... YES, I did indeed check all connections for breaks at the connectors.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


@Ceadderman

Sorry about your problems i know how you feel.
















This is starting to sound like a bad ground issue "with mobo and case" and being how the mobo was RMA'ed have you tried to take everything out of your case and bench testing the system on a cardboard box? I've seen stranger things happen.

Just a option to check off and save a few strands of hair









EDIT:

The more i think about it if it was a grounding issue it shouldn't matter if the case was standing or laying down.

Back to the drawing board?


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Thanks BC.

Earlier when the H50 was being a bugger, it COULD have been a grounding problem. As one of the steel inserts worked itself out(no downward pressure is good) and had spun a nice little bare spot in the tray. No paint and no grey powder coat remained. But I pulled the MoBo back up and fixed both issues. Good thing I have a paint that handles metals. I love my Rustoleum.









Anyway I swapped out the H50 and am using the stock cooler. Tried running 8 Gigs of Corsair RAM and still wouldn't post. I've swapped out the 955 BE(thought maybe I took the lapping too far







) for an Athlon II, with no positive results. So the 955 BE went back in place. Then just a bit ago I glommed onto my Bros 8 Gig set of Ripjaws, thinking that maybe it is RAM. Shelved the 8 Gigs of Dominators and tried that. Nope still would not make it past DRAM, leading me to believe that it's not GPU as the light never gets that far with 8 Gigs.

So I'm down to 2 options. PSU and Drivers. Considering I've posted with both my HDDs', I'm just going to omit those for the time being. I may have to undervolt my GPU for a short time to see if I can get the system to Post with my 500w OCZ, kind of wish I had a cheap PCIE GPU on hand but my bro is running onboard on his system so about the only thing I can do is swap it over to his system and try firing it up and see what happens. I really hope that it's drivers.









I apologize if I covered everything before hand other than the RAM, I'm just working out the ole mental chops to see if I missed anything. Before anyone asks... YES, I did indeed check all connections for breaks at the connectors.









~Ceadder









I'm thinking your stand offs are creating a problem. I have seen people swap identical mobos in the same case and have grounding issues that will stop a computer from posting thats why i suggested pulling everything out of the case and testing. I know its a pain in the arse but hey.

This all started after you got your new mobo from a RMA right?
A bad ground has been known to have the ability to temporarily knockout ram slots.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope, it was the reason the Board was RMA'd. I had checked my sticks in the 1st slot. It powers up with 2 in the 1st two slots. Which shouldn't happen anyway and wouldn't happen if it was a simple grounding issue. At least I don't believe that it would cause slots to jump frequencies. Not in my experience it doesn't anyway.







And which has me thinking MoBo BIOS issue.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


I'm thinking your stand offs are creating a problem. I have seen people swap identical mobos in the same case and have grounding issues that will stop a computer from posting thats why i suggested pulling everything out of the case and testing. I know its a pain in the arse but hey.

This all started after you got your new mobo from a RMA right?
A bad ground has been known to have the ability to temporarily knockout ram slots.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Nope, it was the reason the Board was RMA'd. I had checked my sticks in the 1st slot. It powers up with 2 in the 1st two slots. Which shouldn't happen anyway and wouldn't happen if it was a simple grounding issue. At least I don't believe that it would cause slots to jump frequencies. Not in my experience it doesn't anyway.







And which has me thinking MoBo BIOS issue.









~Ceadder










Oh ok gotcha









Well i guess it wont hurt to flash the bios. ummm unless lightning strikes your house









Did your new board ship with a different bios than you had before?
Bios flashing scares me when there is no redundancy "damn evga" but asus has a built-in backup right? iirc my rampage did

Anyway good luck hunting down your issue


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup same BIOS, 0801. I checked my system specs when I got the MoBo. That was actually one of the first things I did once I realized I was having issues again.









And yeah I hate flashing a BIOS, but this one is pretty simple. Right now I'm going through my manual to make sure I don't forget something but it's looking pretty straight forward.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Oh ok gotcha









Well i guess it wont hurt to flash the bios. ummm unless lightning strikes your house









Did your new board ship with a different bios than you had before?
Bios flashing scares me when there is no redundancy "damn evga" but asus has a built-in backup right? iirc my rampage did

Anyway good luck hunting down your issue


----------



## WTHbot

Well I just installed a fan shroud and I'm seeing a substantial drop. . .Once again. . .

I went down 3c at idle let my pop prime95 up and find my load.

Update: 30 mins of Prime 95 and I only hit 45c, which is 5c lower then before.


----------



## Ceadderman

I'm currently running my stock AMD cooler and posting between 35c-37c on all 4 cores.

I'd say that my Lapping was a success, what do you guys think?









Soon as I know my RAM issue is finished I'm going to be re-installing the H50.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


Well I just installed a fan shroud and I'm seeing a substantial drop. . .Once again. . .

I went down 3c at idle let my pop prime95 up and find my load.

Update: 30 mins of Prime 95 and I only hit 45c, which is 5c lower then before.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I'm currently running my stock AMD cooler and posting between 35c-37c on all 4 cores.

I'd say that my Lapping was a success, what do you guys think?









Soon as I know my RAM issue is finished I'm going to be re-installing the H50.









~Ceadder


































Turn the netbook into a frisbee yet?

I know i wanted to when i was going through my downtime


----------



## digital_steve

So lapping is worth it then?
My lapping kit turned up and i've been trying to decide wether to bother or not...


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *digital_steve* 
So lapping is worth it then?
My lapping kit turned up and i've been trying to decide wether to bother or not...

Not sure... but when it comes to the H50 you can only tighten it so much so if you lap too much material off your cpu and H50 you may run into a problem. I am by no means a pro on this but it makes sense.


----------



## TwwIX

Is it worth lapping the H50? According tp the Corsair forums, lapping doesn't void the warranty.

I have my 920 already lapped but the base of my H50 appears to be uneven.
If anybody lapped it, which grit did you use for it?


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Not sure... but when it comes to the H50 you can only tighten it so much so if you lap too much material off your cpu and H50 you may run into a problem. I am by no means a pro on this but it makes sense.


Cheers, but i doubt i'd be taking anywhere near that amount of material off.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwwIX*


Is it worth lapping the H50? According tp the Corsair forums, lapping doesn't void the warranty.

I have my 920 already lapped but the base of my H50 appears to be uneven.
If anybody lapped it, which grit did you use for it?


Yeah, plus one for me... which grits did you start and finish with?


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope but it did a back dive off my 932 yesterday and landed on the back side of the monitor and promptly closed. I love Asus. This thing didn't even blink. Just went into standby because the lid closed.









I think Lapping is TOTALY worth it btw. But you can't be hamfisted with the CPU you let the weight of the CPU add the pressure and you just "guide" it back and forth on the paper. If you push down on the CPU you WILL more than likely wreck it. Just cover the pins with the protective pad(AMD) or the plastic cover(Intel) and don't push on them. The pad acts as a buffer between you and it. Personally I think Lapping kits are a waste of money. I bought a pack each of 1000, 1200, 1500 and 2 sheets of 2000 grits.

For me that was more than enough. Sometimes more is necessary sometimes less. It all depends on the amount of material you need to take off and if you run your paper backing over a counter edge to activate it. Which I do. I think I took off a 16th of coating all told as I didn't have much material on the glass I used for my flat surface.

Okay, BC, I want to thank you as it was a grounding problem. I had a couple loose standoffs under my board but had thought they were all tight. I even used a socket driver on them. Go figure.









Anyway +Rep for you bro for correct diagnoses. Funny thing was I was under the MoBo twice yesterday and didn't even think about it cause I always tight the damn things. I guess they had worked themselves loose somehow.

Well anyway pulled out the multimeter and checked a couple. Those things are conductive. Done let anyone tell you different. I put several of them together and applied ground to one end and positive to the other end. I got a zero reading in no time flat. If those things are brass I'll sprinkle them on my Wheaties and have them for breakfast.









Moral of the story? Make sure your standoffs are tight and that if you have extras on your MoBo tray that they aren't under your MoBo. I didn't have any under the MoBo other than what's normally there but I was not taking chance and pulled the EATX ones that I used for paint plugs out.

Once I tightened them again, I the system Posted just fine. But I've got it in safe mode scanning my system as after it posted I had 50 browser windows open. I closed them and tried again. 64 opened and crashed my browser. So I'm hoping that I didn't get a tainted BIOS. If so I get to Flash my BIOS again.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*

























Turn the netbook into a frisbee yet?

I know i wanted to when i was going through my downtime


----------



## Ceadderman

Oh to lapp my H50 I started out with 2 sheets of 1000, 2 sheets of 1200, 1 sheet of 1500 and 1 sheet of 2000 grits. I also wet sanded. Not sure it was necessary to use water but I did it anyway. Then I cleaned the surface with alcohol and blew off any leftover moisture with blowoff and toweled it off with a lint free cloth.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bodycount

I'm glad you got it worked out man









The process of elimination eh?

Great patience on your part being i might have taken someone out by now









ONWARD hoe







huh? now you just need to get out of safe mode and hope for the best!

Fingers crossed and waiting


----------



## TwwIX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Oh to lapp my H50 I started out with 2 sheets of 1000, 2 sheets of 1200, 1 sheet of 1500 and 1 sheet of 2000 grits. I also wet sanded. Not sure it was necessary to use water but I did it anyway. Then I cleaned the surface with alcohol and blew off any leftover moisture with blowoff and toweled it off with a lint free cloth.









~Ceadder










What technique did you use when you lapped your H50? I am asking because the base has an oval shape.

When it comes to CPU's, i'd usually lap it in an up and down motion then turn it by 90 degrees and continue.


----------



## Ceadderman

@BC... Don't think the thought didn't cross my mind to hurl the whole system off the balcony.







Took alot of testicular fortitude not to.







lol

@TwwIX, I used up down motion through 1500 paper for two sheets and then started alternating up and down to figure 8 pattern to relieve the boredom more than anything else over the last 2 sheets of 15 and the final sheet of 2000. I sanded into the meat of my ring finger though so that prolly had more to do with the final bit. Later that day when I was putting my system back together I sprung a pinhole leak.







Nvm that was the CPU.

The H50 was 2 sheets 1000 back and forth then I found that the pump likes to rock over occasionally. So I went into figure 8 mode and would count reps of ten with my left arm holding the Rad straight above the Pump and twist after every ten count. Doesn't matter which direction so long as you continue to twist after every tenth stroke. I turned it a quarter turn per rep. The idea with lapping is to get a flat surface. The H50 already has a pretty flat surface. But once you remove the TIM you'll see scratches in the plate. The idea Lapping here is to take the surface as close to a reliably flat surface as you can get it. You'll never get the valleys to rise so you want the surface to get closer to the floor of the valleys. Kind of like shaving the top surface off the Grand Canyon but not touching the floor.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwwIX*


What technique did you use when you lapped your H50? I am asking because the base has an oval shape.

When it comes to CPU's, i'd usually lap it in an up and down motion then turn it by 90 degrees and continue.


----------



## Bodycount

Some of you will not want to hear this and some of you will take it to heart.









The H50 lines "in/out" from the pump should have *absolutely no twisting movement* Mine developed a small twisting action possibly from installing and un-installing many many times over or out of the box and since we are talking about lapping the pump/block this could have the possibility of loosening the lines/fittings resulting in a leak due to the repetitive motion. I believe its standard as in righty tighty lefty loosey

Please all who read this understand i am not bashing the product i just dont want others to have to deal with what i have had to over the last 2 months.
Again im not trying to scare anyone i just want users to be aware.

Flaming me on *this subject* in this thread = Bodycount keeping his mouth shut
other than that i will be more than happy to anwser any questions on this matter to the best of my ability.


----------



## Ceadderman

Flame flame flame flame flame...

































































































































































































































Just kidding man. Mine has some twisting in them. Hopefully they don't result in leaks. My Rad has zero twist though.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
Some of you will not want to hear this and some of you will take it to heart.









The H50 lines "in/out" from the pump should have *absolutely no twisting movement* Mine developed a small twisting action possibly from installing and un-installing many many times over or out of the box and since we are talking about lapping the pump/block this could have the possibility of loosening the lines/fittings resulting in a leak due to the repetitive motion. I believe its standard as in righty tighty lefty loosey

Please all who read this understand i am not bashing the product i just dont want others to have to deal with what i have had to over the last 2 months.
Again im not trying to scare anyone i just want users to be aware.

Flaming me on *this subject* in this thread = Bodycount keeping his mouth shut
other than that i will be more than happy to anwser any questions on this matter to the best of my ability.


----------



## Bodycount

@Ceadderman
Keep in mind i mean at the base of the pump lines

There is twisting on the lines going into the block?
no matter how small?

Call John Kruse "head of tech support" 1 888-222-4346 tues. and ask him about the fittings
Jelaide Ocbina "RMA rep" ext.#263 very very nice lady
Kelvin CS lead rep ext.#287


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah at the base of the pump lines. Not the Rad. I have twisting but I'm sure I'm not having issues. My only issues were with the BS plastic bosses that connect the lock ring to the base plate. Those things ain't worth a plug nickel. Wouldn't have mattered too much if I didn't have to have been messing with it for so long only to find out that the Intel inserts work best.









I'll see what's up on Tuesday cause tomorrow is still the holiday.









Thanks for the info though I appreciate the assist.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
@Ceadderman
Keep in mind i mean at the base of the pump lines

There is twisting on the lines going into the block?
no matter how small?

Call John Kruse "head of tech support" 1 888-222-4346 tues. and ask him about the fittings
Jelaide Ocbina "RMA rep" ext.#263 very very nice lady
Kelvin CS lead rep ext.#287


----------



## Slug_go

Just want to make my first post to the thread and to Overclock.Net.

I just want to say thanks to those who have contributed to this thread as I have gained some good knowledge.

Also, I really only play Galactic Civ II though I own a PS2 too that sits in the closet and have enjoyed Medal of Honor play.

Up to page 1010 now after staring at page one, word one 2 weeks ago. I do not OC at this time, though I have taken the Q6700 to 2.88 w/ no problems figuring 3.2 will be the fastest I can run on my stuff.

I am now the proud new owner of a 932 HAF and the Cosair H50.









It's all sitting in the great room waiting on a couple more items (some AC MX-3though I have a good bit of AS Ceramique' already) before I make the swap from my Antec 300. I plan on using the stock TIM on the H50 first, however. I've got to reseat the E7300 and it's AC FP 7 in the system I'm now on in my office as it's temps are high (44C) just browsing and it has been cleaned. Figured I'd try the MX-3 on it as it's guts will go from its Rosewill case to the Antec 300.

After about page 20 of this thread, my mind & my slight touch of OCD started churning and the ordering began. I plan on mounting the H50 RAD in 3 of the HAF's 5.25" front drive bays using two 120 X 38mm UK3000 P/P w/ 2 38 mm shrouds sync'd to a Lamptron FC-5 on one channel. The wind tunnel will be filtered too. As I kept reading, many on the thread confirmed my ideas to be good.

I'll also be adding 2 Papst 120 X 38 mm W2GT110-AF45-19's @ 105 CFM with wire grills of course, one replacing the stock rear HAF and the other at the bottom with a 38 mm shroud. Theses too will be going thru the controller most likely on separate channels HAF . I figure high CFM fans undervolted w/ good static pressure capabilities is the best air solution at this time. I plan on using the three 230 mm stock fans as is.

I'm waiting on and also be adding the Corsair CMXAF2 Fan to my memory along with some Enzotech 4-in heatsinks to my MOSFETs. The P5QSE does not have these heat sinked as ASUS and others added that feature to their newer mobo's. Figured a little added insurance to these is good if I can OC that Q6700. Sleeving kits and able manage supplies are in.

I did pick up the DemciFlex filters (top too) for the 932.

Anyway, with a dog who goes out quite a bit into the woods, creek, etc....dust can be an issue with my systems and this is what started my on my quest not to mention DDR2 systems are slowly disappearing making way for the DDR3 and the new i3, i5, i7 CPU's and boards. So, I figured getting the 932 for $140 w/ free shipping was a good move at this time as it too will soon make way for the X.

I'd rather sit in my recliner, drink a cold one and surf - read hardware / OS forums than disassemble than dust a PC every 3-4 months.









I'll get some before and after pics up when I start / finish and get a post after the swap.

Though older hardware built 2 years ago, my current stuff has been reliable and does a good job for video encoding as a hobby. I can't complain as I started PC hardware upgrades back on my first PC - a IBM PC-XT, 640 KB memory @ 4.77 MHz w/ 10 MB HDD.

Anyway, Im in but not up yet!!


----------



## Slug_go

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Yup same BIOS, 0801. I checked my system specs when I got the MoBo. That was actually one of the first things I did once I realized I was having issues again.









And yeah I hate flashing a BIOS, but this one is pretty simple. Right now I'm going through my manual to make sure I don't forget something but it's looking pretty straight forward.









~Ceadder










Good Luck on the BIOS flash







...had to do 2 systems of mine (P5Q Se's) a while back as a virus got in to it from a video in the background.......it's a risk, but sometimes it's the only call.


----------



## Bodycount

Welcome to OCN Slug_go









This site is a wealth of information.

Enjoy your stay


----------



## Ceadderman

Welcome Sluggo.

Well I'm back up and running. I'm on my system at this very moment. Did a complete 2 drive scan with my AVG in safe mode and my Malware Bytes. Seems like everything is good. I haven't checked the Report log but I'm pretty sure I don't have anything anymore if I did have anything to begin with.









So to get back on topic, I'll be remounting my H50 later today and checking the temps to see where I'm at.

Thanks for the input everybody I appreciate it as it reminds me why I am a member of OC.net. It also makes me proud to be in great company... most of the time.









~Ceadder


----------



## Slug_go

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Welcome to OCN Slug_go









This site is a wealth of information.

Enjoy your stay


TY for the welcome. In my case a lot of times, I find what doesn't work much of the time, before I stumble across a decent solution.


----------



## Slug_go

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Welcome Sluggo.

Well I'm back up and running. I'm on my system at this very moment. Did a complete 2 drive scan with my AVG in safe mode and my Malware Bytes. Seems like everything is good. I haven't checked the Report log but I'm pretty sure I don't have anything anymore if I did have anything to begin with.









So to get back on topic, I'll be remounting my H50 later today and checking the temps to see where I'm at.

Thanks for the input everybody I appreciate it as it reminds me why I am a member of Overclock.net. It also makes me proud to be in great company... most of the time.









~Ceadder










And thank you for the welcome. Glad to hear you are back up on your system. I am looking forward ti seeing your temps.
















Believe me you do not ever want want a BIOS virus/worm, talk about a serious PITA. Thank you MS and Adobe Flash.







Because of such I run KIS 2010 24/7 then MWBytes, AVG, and Spybot routinely. My GF will click on anything when surfing.....









Anyhow, Ceadder, you ever played around with those Papst fans I mentioned? Curious.....I have a Delta HS 25mm lying in storage, but wanted to try the Papsts 38's.

It's gonna be a fun run in regards to my time and space on the kitchen table as veggies coming from the garden now are competing for space for the 'swap zone' at this time.







I want test and to build now, but, beans, squash, and maters are needing attention first. Had my first mater sandwich (from the garden) yesterday to celebrate the 4th (made my goal) as one slice covered an entire slice of regular loaf bread.









I will say I am apprehensive about my ability to get the H50 in right the first time....hopefully the CPU cutout on the HAF will make it much easier. I am eager to see the H50 results for my stuff vs stock as or right now on the Q6700 temps from HWMonitor (with only FireFox & KIS( running are showing:

Core 0: 34C
Core 1: 36C
Core 2: 31C
Core 3: 31C

System: 28C
Ambient: 24C

I wanted to upgrade the CPU and Mombo this year, but a new roof and heat pump 1st half of this year sucked up some serious funds.









I've saved some stock Prime95 screenshot results using HWMonitor and RealTemp and will post them along with the before and after stuff.


----------



## Ceadderman

No such luck with the 932 making it easier. The bottom fittings on the backplate are covered by the lower part of the opening. You'll want to make certain that you don't push down on the screws to install them or the fitting will back out and score the paint.

On the plus note you've got Intel so you can place the inserts in the lock ring and then fit the screws through until they are free and clear of the insert. Then start a turn or so til they are in place and you can't pull them clear of the backplate inserts. Once that's done you should have hardly any issues at all fitting the pump through the ring, snapped into place an then tightened.

Nope can't say as I have tried those Papst fans. I've tried Pabst Blue Ribbon but not Papst fans. Apologies.









And I'm hella jealous. I love a good beefsteak Tomato slice with Miracle Whip a slice of Pepperjack on one side a bit of lettuce and some pepper on the other side smackdab in the middle of a couple pieces of Whole Wheat Bread. I been waiting for the local crops to come in thanks for the reminder much appreciated.









Temps with the AMD cooler right now are

Core 0 36c/34c/37c
Core 1 35c/35c/37c
Core 2 36c/35c/37c
Core 3 36c/35c/37c

When I had the EPU-4 Engine on it bumped my temps up +/- 3c with the AMD Cooler. Can't wait to see what it does with the H50.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Slug_go*


And thank you for the welcome. Glad to hear you are back up on your system. I am looking forward ti seeing your temps.
















Believe me you do not ever want want a BIOS virus/worm, talk about a serious PITA. Thank you MS and Adobe Flash.







Because of such I run KIS 2010 24/7 then MWBytes, AVG, and Spybot routinely. My GF will click on anything when surfing.....









Anyhow, Ceadder, you ever played around with those Papst fans I mentioned? Curious.....I have a Delta HS 25mm lying in storage, but wanted to try the Papsts 38's.

It's gonna be a fun run in regards to my time and space on the kitchen table as veggies coming from the garden now are competing for space for the 'swap zone' at this time.







I want test and to build now, but, beans, squash, and maters are needing attention first. Had my first mater sandwich (from the garden) yesterday to celebrate the 4th (made my goal) as one slice covered an entire slice of regular loaf bread.









I will say I am apprehensive about my ability to get the H50 in right the first time....hopefully the CPU cutout on the HAF will make it much easier. I am eager to see the H50 results for my stuff vs stock as or right now on the Q6700 temps from HWMonitor (with only FireFox & KIS( running are showing:

Core 0: 34C
Core 1: 36C
Core 2: 31C
Core 3: 31C

System: 28C
Ambient: 24C

I wanted to upgrade the CPU and Mombo this year, but a new roof and heat pump 1st half of this year sucked up some serious funds.









I've saved some stock Prime95 screenshot results using HWMonitor and RealTemp and will post them along with the before and after stuff.


----------



## Slug_go

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


No such luck with the 932 making it easier. The bottom fittings on the backplate are covered by the lower part of the opening. You'll want to make certain that you don't push down on the screws to install them or the fitting will back out and score the paint.

On the plus note you've got Intel so you can place the inserts in the lock ring and then fit the screws through until they are free and clear of the insert. Then start a turn or so til they are in place and you can't pull them clear of the backplate inserts. Once that's done you should have hardly any issues at all fitting the pump through the ring, snapped into place an then tightened.

Nope can't say as I have tried those Papst fans. I've tried Pabst Blue Ribbon but not Papst fans. Apologies.









And I'm hella jealous. I love a good beefsteak Tomato slice with Miracle Whip a slice of Pepperjack on one side a bit of lettuce and some pepper on the other side smackdab in the middle of a couple pieces of Whole Wheat Bread. I been waiting for the local crops to come in thanks for the reminder much appreciated.










Good to hear / see those temps.

I haven't met a beer I wouldn't try.







My favs being Worsteiner & Becks Dark...working around the house beer is Miller Lite.

The mater yesterday was a Brandywine (heirloom variety all others are judged against for taste) and I'll be eating some beefsteaks later today. Salt & pepper and miracle whip, of course. The grocery store maters are basically sawdust with red food coloring and water added with really nice looks, but no taste.









Thanks for the tips on the 775 mounting bracket - appreciate that. I've got all the stuff for lapping but will not at this time since I still have a year to go on the CPU warranty and the H50 will be new. However, I will knife edge check both eventually, the CPU will be this time at swapping.

What's your opinion on removing the G751 from the H50 first into an ulta clean dish to reapply thin on the first mounting? I have no experience with the Shin - I hear it's a paste, not a cream and hard to spread.

From what I've read, I have little room to OC the Q6700 on the P5Q. My next mombo will have a ICH10R SB to RAID a pair of SSD's.

Ur opinion for the best i7 CPU to OC --- bang for the buck w/ HT ability??


----------



## Muntey

Is installing the H50supposed to make my room smell like plastic?


----------



## Ceadderman

Not sure I would suggest such a thing. The only reason it's a "paste" at this point is because air hit it. Once that happens the viscosity of it is pretty low. Honestly I don't suggest removing it at all unless you have fresh on hand. The stuff that comes on the H50 itself is pretty thick and while not unreasonable and provides better temps than the stock cooler(which also provides pretty thick coverage ironically enough) is a bit much. But I still wouldn't mess with it yet. Pick up some excellent 0 day cure TIM (there is a list in my sig) and when you're feeling spry then mess with it. But get a baseline reading on your temps first so you can see the difference.

I should have done this before I lapped but I already made up my mind to do the lapping before I even got my 955 and H50. Oh well too late, I enjoy the temps I have now but it sure would be nice to know I went from ? to current temps.







lol

Oh and I can't give you any feedback on which Intel CPU is a better OC bang for the buck as I only have P4 experience the last time I ran Intel. For me to do so would be a bit above my pay grade as it were.









Guinness and Jack FTW!









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Slug_go* 
Good to hear / see those temps.

I haven't met a beer I wouldn't try.







My favs being Worsteiner & Becks Dark...working around the house beer is Miller Lite.

The mater yesterday was a Brandywine (heirloom variety all others are judged against for taste) and I'll be eating some beefsteaks later today. Salt & pepper and miracle whip, of course. The grocery store maters are basically sawdust with red food coloring and water added with really nice looks, but no taste.









Thanks for the tips on the 775 mounting bracket - appreciate that. I've got all the stuff for lapping but will not at this time since I still have a year to go on the CPU warranty and the H50 will be new. However, I will knife edge check both eventually, the CPU will be this time at swapping.

What's your opinion on removing the G751 from the H50 first into an ulta clean dish to reapply thin on the first mounting? I have no experience with the Shin - I hear it's a paste, not a cream and hard to spread.

From what I've read, I have little room to OC the Q6700 on the P5Q. My next mombo will have a ICH10R SB to RAID a pair of SSD's.

Ur opinion for the best i7 CPU to OC --- bang for the buck w/ HT ability??


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Slug_go* 
Ur opinion for the best i7 CPU to OC --- bang for the buck w/ HT ability??

The best bang for your buck for an I7 is to think about buying an I7 then instead buy an AMD Phenom II x4 or x6.

In about the same boat as Cheddar the last time I dealt with an intel it was a P4. I have enough money to buy any CPU/components I want but still wouldn't buy an intel I think they ridiculously overcharge for no reason. I hope that more and more people and companies start to vote with their money like me to show their dislike for intel price gouging.

Back on topic of talking about H50's you can't really take the temps that I and Cheddar and other AMD users get to compare to your own because Intel CPU's run a lot hotter by design.

I did run across a good post/idea about the stock TIM that comes with the H50. Put on a pair of rubber gloves and take off the stock TIM and you can roll it in a ball and then only use the amount that should be on there instead of the amount that is way to much originally.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Muntey*


Is installing the H50supposed to make my room smell like plastic?


MMM new hardware smell. c:


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


MMM new hardware smell. c:


I must be one of the only people who likes that smell. Kinda goes along with getting a new electronic.


----------



## Muntey

So it is Ok for it to smell like that? Phew. I have remounted the fan so that is pushing in exhaust; the smell is less noticeable now.


----------



## TwwIX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Oh to lapp my H50 I started out with 2 sheets of 1000, 2 sheets of 1200, 1 sheet of 1500 and 1 sheet of 2000 grits. I also wet sanded. Not sure it was necessary to use water but I did it anyway. Then I cleaned the surface with alcohol and blew off any leftover moisture with blowoff and toweled it off with a lint free cloth.









~Ceadder










Why you use such high grit? I never ho above 1000 when i lap my CPU's.
I'd usually start with something coarser such as 400 grit then move on to 600 or 800 and finally 1000. Anything above that seems like a waste of time and money. The only thing you achieve from higher grit is a mirror shine, which is quite useless imo.


----------



## digital_steve

Isn't the mirror shine the final step anyway... i.e. a desired outcome?


----------



## Syrillian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


Isn't the mirror shine the final step anyway... i.e. a desired outcome?


Flat first, then mirror sheen, Imho.


----------



## TwwIX

What's the point of a mirror shine when there's no change in temperature?


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Muntey*


So it is Ok for it to smell like that? Phew. I have remounted the fan so that is pushing in exhaust; the smell is less noticeable now.


You should set it up as a Pull rather then push.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwwIX*


What's the point of a mirror shine when there's no change in temperature?


It looks beautiful. lol


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwwIX*


What's the point of a mirror shine when there's no change in temperature?


Finishing the job properly? I dunno... i'll do it in my case, as it doesn't take much extra effort to do it and i may as well while i'm at it.


----------



## TwwIX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


It looks beautiful. lol


Who is going to look at it?

As i said, waste of time and money.


----------



## Ceadderman

I think that it's easier to see light under your straight edge if it's polished actually. I have no hard data to support this but when you take a light and shine it on the underside of your flat edge I noticed that it's easier to see whether or not your surface is now flat.

And wow really







400 grit? If that's the case it's overkill(imho) to use 4 grit levels starting from 400 unless you're skimping on sheet usage.









In my experience of doing this I found that 1000 will take off the coating reasonably well and even start getting you into the Copper w/o going TOO fast. This is the only thing I can see that is a positive of 400, is that you get to the Copper quicker than you will using 1000 to start. But if you don't understand what you're doing you could go too deep. You can take thickness off. You can't put it back on.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwwIX*


What's the point of a mirror shine when there's no change in temperature?


----------



## TwwIX

Yes, you need to start off with coarser grit to actually smooth the base out and not just remove the nickel coating. There's dozens of lapping guides out there that will tell you the same.

3 grits, not 4. 400 then 600 OR 800 and finish it off with 1000.
Actually, anything above that is over kill and quite pointless since the nickel coating is completely gone by time you're finished with the 1000 grit.

"Ooh, a mirror finish!"

That's about useful as putting cathode lights and fancy tubing into a windowless case.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TwwIX* 
Who is going to look at it?

As i said, waste of time and money.

Some people, such as I, wouldn't see that as a waste of time.

Money maybe, time no.


----------



## Muntey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
You should set it up as a Pull rather then push.

Does it really make much of a difference? At the moment I am getting the same temps for push as I did with pull. I might change it around next time I go into my case, if it will actually make a difference.

Also, should I go intake or exhaust? I don't like the idea of all that heat coming into my case...


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Muntey* 
Does it really make much of a difference? At the moment I am getting the same temps for push as I did with pull. I might change it around next time I go into my case, if it will actually make a difference.

Also, should I go intake or exhaust? I don't like the idea of all that heat coming into my case...

As long as your big fan in the top is exhaust then the air being put in to the case should exhaust right out.

And I noticed a difference not to much but a difference.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well TwwIX you might try looking up CPU Lapping on YouTube if you think that my way is wrong. Cause there's several people who have lapped their CPU that would disagree with you.

The idea is to get it flat. Shininess is just a secondary result. Anyone that Lapps just for the bling factor doesn't know what they are doing.

And I've seen windowless cases that look baddass with some Cats in them. Of course the owners eventually put windows in them but setting them up first can be good.

One question though? Why you gotta crap on my technique? For that matter why do you feel the need to say that it's wrong? It works and I see that it does.

I spent $20 for paper. I used maybe 2/3 of it on my CPU. If that. I got solid results. As a 35c-37c temp average on all 4 cores with the stock AMD cooler. I got nothin but time for something that helps my system run cooler. Right now I'm in the process of re-mounting my H50 to squeeze a few more C out of the temps.

I wasn't saying you're wrong only that going with a coarser grit can invite trouble for those that don't have any idea what they're doing.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *TwwIX*


Yes, you need to start off with coarser grit to actually smooth the base out and not just remove the nickel coating. There's dozens of lapping guides out there that will tell you the same.

3 grits, not 4. 400 then 600 OR 800 and finish it off with 1000.
Actually, anything above that is over kill and quite pointless since the nickel coating is completely gone by time you're finished with the 1000 grit.

"Ooh, a mirror finish!"

That's about useful as putting cathode lights and fancy tubing into a windowless case.


----------



## Bodycount

Hold up here correct me if im wrong but isn't one of the jobs of thermal paste to fill in the rough surface of a cpu heatspreadder and HSF to allow for better heat transfer? So all the forums i've read about the matter of lapping to a mirror finish after flatness is achevied is worthless?

so twixx all these people are wrong in thinking that applying thermal paste to a smooth mirror finish could yeild better results then applying it to a rough surface









I also read many post saying it spreads better and takes less TIM to do the same job


----------



## ocaddikt

less TIM the better, it is a substitute, it does not transfer heat as well as actual metal to metal contact.


----------



## Slug_go

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Well TwwIX you might try looking up CPU Lapping on YouTube if you think that my way is wrong. Cause there's several people who have lapped their CPU that would disagree with you.

The idea is to get it flat. Shininess is just a secondary result. Anyone that Lapps just for the bling factor doesn't know what they are doing.

And I've seen windowless cases that look baddass with some Cats in them. Of course the owners eventually put windows in them but setting them up first can be good.

One question though? Why you gotta crap on my technique? For that matter why do you feel the need to say that it's wrong? It works and I see that it does.

I spent $20 for paper. I used maybe 2/3 of it on my CPU. If that. I got solid results. As a 35c-37c temp average on all 4 cores with the stock AMD cooler. I got nothin but time for something that helps my system run cooler. Right now I'm in the process of re-mounting my H50 to squeeze a few more C out of the temps.

I wasn't saying you're wrong only that going with a coarser grit can invite trouble for those that don't have any idea what they're doing.

~Ceadder

















CRAP.....CRAP.....CRAP.....CRAP.....CRAP.....

The world is full of crap, (and crappers)









BTW, I too think 4 grits are a minimum for lapping from all I have read / seen with 600 grit starting maybe really maybe too rough for exposed copper HS plates. Copper is soft and I would be cautious removing too much too quickly as not all HS metals have the same % metals. I would want to think it better to start w/ 800 on any CPU.

I would tend to think the less viscous the TIM the operator is going to use on his lapped heat sink / CPU, the shinier the mating surfaces need to be......guess particle size of a specific TIM may relate to its ability to fill / not fill the micro imperfections on the 'flat' surfaces.







Maybe that's why there's so much stock TIM on the H50 as the copper base plate is really kinda dull and HS spreaders on CPU's look kinda grainy??? A catch all application from Corsair??

Got a question fer ya and anyone else who cares to chime in - it'll be a bit down in the post (the question):

Just got to 3.0 GHz on my Q6700 (please do not laugh too hard) w/ a 10 multplier and CPU voltage at 1.200 V as reported by CPUZ ID using the ASUS AI tweaker.

My mombo is only rated up to 1200 FSB and I am there according to AI Tweaker and CPUZ ID. I am running at those settings now.

Ran 90 minutes of P95 large FFT's and passed on all 4 cores slammed to 100% the entire time and saw max load temps of 58-60C on all 4 cores
with stock cooling (stock CPU HS Fan at the moment 23C ambient)

Tried to push to 3.2 GHz as the next step and NO GO when the 4 P95 workers got busy........blank / reset







.

*My question is this:* If I go into the BIOS and manually bump the CPU voltage to up the clock, will that also change my FSB frequency automatically?









I gets the sneaky feeling my Slug hardware may have reached it limit because of the mombo FSB limitation.

If that's the case, oh well, then my H50 will hopefully preserve the life of my Q6700 if it stays in the ASUS P5Q SE Plus.


----------



## digital_steve

Who cares? Horses for courses... he doesn't like a mirror finish, some others like a mirror finish.
Let's leave it at that, otherwise this thread will end up in another flame fest that ruins the ability to provide decent information.


----------



## KruperTrooper

Quick question. What temps should I be seeing while running Prime95?


----------



## Muntey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


As long as your big fan in the top is exhaust then the air being put in to the case should exhaust right out.

And I noticed a difference not to much but a difference.


Ok, Sweet, thanks.

What do you guys think of my temps (Sig rig settings)?
Minimum: 34, 33, 35, 33
Load max: 64,63,62, 64


----------



## Slug_go

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Muntey*


Does it really make much of a difference? At the moment I am getting the same temps for push as I did with pull. I might change it around next time I go into my case, if it will actually make a difference.

Also, should I go intake or exhaust? I don't like the idea of all that heat coming into my case...


I so badly want to see New Zealand and trout fish there before time passes me by........need at least $7K for that trip....If my GF tags along, Ill have to increase that by 130%...then again not too bad...she'd never caught a trout until I took her 6 years ago....









Go exhaust if you have enough intakes already to maintain positive pressure.


----------



## Ceadderman

Correct that is one of the jobs of TIM. But you get a better result with less grooves, a flatter surface and less TIM. This is how it allows for better heat transfer as it brings the two surfaces closer together without actually touching and allows the heat to transfer quicker from the CPU.

The mirror finish is a *result* of lapping _not_ the goal of it.

I'm back up btw. With the H50 installed and CPUID reporting a minimum core temp(x4) of 32c.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Hold up here correct me if im wrong but isn't one of the jobs of thermal paste to fill in the rough surface of a cpu heatspreadder and HSF to allow for better heat transfer? So all the forums i've read about the matter of lapping to a mirror finish after flatness is achevied is worthless?

so twixx all these people are wrong in thinking that applying thermal paste to a smooth mirror finish could yeild better results then applying it to a rough surface









I also read many post saying it spreads better and takes less TIM to do the same job


----------



## Slug_go

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


The best bang for your buck for an I7 is to think about buying an I7 then instead buy an AMD Phenom II x4 or x6.

In about the same boat as Cheddar the last time I dealt with an intel it was a P4.


Thanks for your input.







I bought the Intel Q6700 originally for its video encoding speed vs AMD. Yes it runs hot under load, but not that bad when room temp < 28C.

Since I am not running the hot vid cards now, internal case temps are pretty good. Though not really a gamer, I have looked at Crysis more than once.

Anyway, the time has come again for me to investigate all the current, popular, and newest hardware and it's reliability.

I've heard some good things about the new AMD chip being readied for release.

To be honest, I know a little about CPU's, mombos, video, etc.....what I like knowing more is what actually works well in diverse apps and is built to last.

With the global economic situation as it is, I fear some manufactures will willingly advert quality in order to reduce costs to improve their bottom line and just spin more hype to get people to buy a so-so / ut-oh product.


----------



## Slug_go

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


The mirror finish is a *result* of lapping _not_ the goal of it.

I'm back up btw. With the H50 installed and CPUID reporting a minimum core temp(x4) of 32c.

~Ceadder










Well that's good, the 32C.







I assume you are OC'd too, some???


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope not OC'd. Not yet. I want to let my system recouperate after the Post issues it was having.

I tried to slim my timings back down to where I had them earlier and BSoD'ed. So I've got to see where I can make changes and possibly up the voltage to get it there.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Slug_go*


Well that's good, the 32C.







I assume you are OC'd too, some???


----------



## cmeeks

Just thought I should post the results of some basic fan orientation testing I did for the record. I tested GT AP-15 push, GT AP-15 pull, stock push, stock pull (all exhausting out the back). All tests were also done with the fans at full speed.

Conclusion: 
GT AP-15 pull, but only by a degree... maybe two. My advice: save your money or at least purchase cheaper fans if you have to have new fans.

Perhaps the hubs on the GTs are too big therefore choking too much of the radiator area... Eventually I'll test this with a shroud. In the mean time, I don't think the stock fan is bad by any means - I've seen some people refer to it as "crappy" and I don't know where they're getting this idea unless they just prefer really noisy 38mm high rpm fans.

Seems like for what people are spending on dual fans for p/p, you'd be better off buying a dual radiator, modding the h50, and dropping 5 to 10 C.

Disclaimer:
I realize everybody's system is different and generalizations are hard if not impossible to make...


----------



## ntshabbyShawn

ok big question, here are my OC results after 30 min of prime95, the temps in real temp dont match up with my Asus suite or with speedfan readings , which ones should i trust ? and I know not to go over 80c so i am confused if i can push my system further or is this is good as it gets for the H50 setup?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/4767158140/


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ntshabbyShawn* 
ok big question, here are my OC results after 30 min of prime95, the temps in real temp dont match up with my Asus suite or with speedfan readings , which ones should i trust ? and I know not to go over 80c so i am confused if i can push my system further or is this is good as it gets for the H50 setup? ]http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/4767158140/sizes/l/in/photostream/[/URL]

Temps seem fine, actually pretty low for that kind of an OC.

Try for 4.4ghz. . .


----------



## ntshabbyShawn

well i am a noob at OC'ing so why is Real temp giving me high temp results while speedfan and Asus suite telling me a different story ? here are the idle temp differences too with room temp at 76F and 2 Cooler Master R4-L2R fans in push pull

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/4767232198/


----------



## WTHbot

Oh I didn't even see that real temp. . .

Might wanna check out Everest for another reading. . .


----------



## ntshabbyShawn

got Everest doing a Benchmark now will post results in 30 min but the temps are the same as Real temp so I guess I will trust the Real Temp numbers.

update : 67c max temps on Everest! min temps 38C with room temp at 25c


----------



## NitrousX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Muntey*


Ok, Sweet, thanks.

What do you guys think of my temps (Sig rig settings)?
Minimum: 34, 33, 35, 33
Load max: 64,63,62, 64


Those temps look amazing. What is your ambient temp?


----------



## TwwIX

Here are the load temps for my oc'ed i7 920

@3.8GHz

67-65-63-65

What do you guys think?


----------



## mattw

Just ordered a H50 to replace stock intel cooler after much google searching about air vs H50.

Can't wait to get it fitted when it turns up - will post some pics when its up and running.


----------



## PC_GAMER

ok ive just ordered the H50 and i have no idea how to install it. Where do i put the god dam heatsink? What do i attach it to?


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PC_GAMER* 
ok ive just ordered the H50 and i have no idea how to install it. Where do i put the god dam heatsink? What do i attach it to?

read the instructions, corsairs website has a video to show how to install it also. fill out your sig rig so we know what case you have along with the rest of your rig


----------



## mayford5

Do you mean the cpu block? You need to take off the back plate and mounting bracket. Then install the ones supplied by corsair for your cpu type(ex.. Socket AM3, LGA 775, LGA 1366, or LGA 1156) It is a little involved but not too bad but def not a drop in cooler. Hope this helped.


----------



## PC_GAMER

ok i watched the video, the last bit scared me, he said make sure the power to the pump is at full throttle. My motherboard is GA-X58A-UD3R. Where in the bios do i make sure full power is given to the pump? Also where on my motherboard do i plug in the pump? Am i worring over nothing here? lol.


----------



## TwwIX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PC_GAMER* 
ok i watched the video, the last bit scared me, he said make sure the power to the pump is at full throttle. My motherboard is GA-X58A-UD3R. Where in the bios do i make sure full power is given to the pump? Also where on my motherboard do i plug in the pump? Am i worring over nothing here? lol.

Disable SMARTFAN and put it on Manual.


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PC_GAMER* 
ok i watched the video, the last bit scared me, he said make sure the power to the pump is at full throttle. My motherboard is GA-X58A-UD3R. Where in the bios do i make sure full power is given to the pump? Also where on my motherboard do i plug in the pump? Am i worring over nothing here? lol.

just look around in the bios, and plug the pump into any of the sys fan headers. the fan needs to be plugged into the cpu header so it can take advantage of PWM


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OutOfBalanceOX*


just look around in the bios, and plug the pump into any of the sys fan headers. the fan needs to be plugged into the cpu header so it can take advantage of PWM


There is no reason unless you have superhuman hearing that you cannot leave the stock fan at least at 100% no need to use PWM keeping it going full all the time keeps your CPU as cool as it can be with the H50 thus extending the life of your CPU.

Now if your running some crazy 3krpm+ fans or something then you might want to take advantage of the PWM...


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


There is no reason unless you have superhuman hearing that you cannot leave the stock fat at least at 100% no need to use PWM keeping it going full all the time keeps your CPU as cool as it can be with the H50 thus extending the life of your CPU.

Now if your running some crazy 3krpm+ fans or something then you might want to take advantage of the PWM...


I never said he couldnt, but he still has the option


----------



## sesnut

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


There is no reason unless you have superhuman hearing that you cannot leave the stock fan at least at 100% no need to use PWM keeping it going full all the time keeps your CPU as cool as it can be with the H50 thus extending the life of your CPU.

Now if your running some crazy 3krpm+ fans or something then you might want to take advantage of the PWM...


i hear the stock fans fine at 1700 rpms and its annoying as ****


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sesnut*


i hear the stock fans fine at 1700 rpms and its annoying as ****



Unless you got a dud nope it is silent. I have GT AP15 fans with shrouds in p/p now but I used the stock corsair fan to replace the noisy fan in my old 650w Thermaltake PS. Now other than just a little sound of air movement my whole PC is silent and replacing the old fan for my old computers PS it is a lot quieter.


----------



## Muntey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NitrousX*


Those temps look amazing. What is your ambient temp?


About 15C it think. I have the case fans running on "Silent" as well, It might be interesting to find out how they are at max speed


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Muntey*


About 15C it think. I have the case fans running on "Silent" as well, It might be interesting to find out how they are at max speed










It's 59f in your room?


----------



## Muntey

If 59F is 15C, then yes.


----------



## sesnut

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Unless you got a dud nope it is silent. I have GT AP15 fans with shrouds in p/p now but I used the stock corsair fan to replace the noisy fan in my old 650w Thermaltake PS. Now other than just a little sound of air movement my whole PC is silent and replacing the old fan for my old computers PS it is a lot quieter.

quieter doesnt mean that its quiet, unless your hearing is going out


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Muntey* 
If 59F is 15C, then yes.

That is incredibly cold. . .Are you in Australia or something?


----------



## pieisgood2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Muntey* 
About 15C it think. I have the case fans running on "Silent" as well, It might be interesting to find out how they are at max speed









you sure your thermostat isn't broken, because 15c is ridiculously cold.


----------



## Ceadderman

Muntey is in New Zeland peeps.

~Ceadder


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Muntey is in New Zeland peeps.

~Ceadder










That's explains the super cold ambients. Well for this time of the year at least.

I'ts like 40c outside here, and 21-22 in my room.


----------



## Muntey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


That is incredibly cold. . *.Are you in Australia or something?*


FFFFFFFFFFFUuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu

Oh and I tried using HWmonitor and it is giving me temps about 10-15 above Real temp. Which would you guys say is more accurate?


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Muntey*


*FFFFFFFFFFFUuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu
*
Oh and I tried using HWmonitor and it is giving me temps about 10-15 above Real temp. Which would you guys say is more accurate?


Haha sorry, I didn't mean to offend a kiwi.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sesnut*


quieter doesnt mean that its quiet, unless your hearing is going out


Regardless of my hearing if my case is closed up and I am 3 foot away with a db meter it doesn't move so I would say that meets everyone's perception of quiet. Unless you sit with your ear to the side of your computer to judge how quiet it is...


----------



## digital_steve

Nothin' wrong with us aussies!


----------



## -=*HERO*=-

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


Nothin' wrong with us aussies!


except you smell like roo's and vegimite


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


Nothin' wrong with us aussies!


Just between you and me.








YouTube- The Gruen Transfer - Invade New Zealand #2
I laughed so hard when I saw that.


----------



## scottath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
That is incredibly cold. . .Are you in Australia or something?

Australia....cold? (is atm







.....top of 15c today in Sydney ..... hate winter)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
Haha sorry, I didn't mean to offend a kiwi. 

lol

Quote:


Originally Posted by *digital_steve* 
Nothin' wrong with us aussies!

^^

Quote:


Originally Posted by *-=*HERO*=-* 
except you smell like roo's and vegimite

ok?

As i live in Sydney roos are rather infrequent - mostly see them as road kill on the highway to uni. and Vegemite (note the right spelling







) is an acquired taste - like wine.

anyhow - atm im the cold im getting ~75c with i7 806 @ 4ghz (prime) and i need to remount my H50.....


----------



## kitekrazy

I'm not impressed with this unit. I'm getting over 50c with this thing. I had to take it off once and of course I had to repaste using OCZ Freeze.

I'm pretty sure the fan is blowing in to the radiator. There were no markings so the fan logo is facing the radiator. I have everything hooked up right.

My M3N78 Pro is crap for overclocking anyway. I guess I'll just let things be.


----------



## Ceadderman

There is an arrow pointer explaining which way flow directs on the stock Corsair fan. So I'm not sure what exactly the problem is.

At worst my H50 gave me 49c temps and that was cause I was running the Asus APU feature to start with. Even with all the problems that I had with the loose standoffs, my H50 still functioned properly.

Not saying that yours isn't fudged, but my current temps on CPUID HW Monitor...

Minimum of 30c all 4 cores and Maximum 37c all four cores Ambs are currently 75F.

Of course I do have both surfaces lapped and run Push/Pull w/ a shroud. But I can't believe that your H50 if properly set up is running over 50c. Though you do say you are OC'ng so that would acount for an increase in temps. Not sure how much of an increase though.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *kitekrazy*


I'm not impressed with this unit. I'm getting over 50c with this thing. I had to take it off once and of course I had to repaste using OCZ Freeze.

I'm pretty sure the fan is blowing in to the radiator. There were no markings so the fan logo is facing the radiator. I have everything hooked up right.

My M3N78 Pro is crap for overclocking anyway. I guess I'll just let things be.


----------



## Muntey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kitekrazy*


I'm not impressed with this unit. I'm getting over 50c with this thing. I had to take it off once and of course I had to repaste using OCZ Freeze.

I'm pretty sure the fan is blowing in to the radiator. There were no markings so the fan logo is facing the radiator. I have everything hooked up right.

My M3N78 Pro is crap for overclocking anyway. I guess I'll just let things be.


The logo side is the front, so air is sucked from behind it and pushed out the front.


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:



Originally Posted by *-=*HERO*=-*


except you smell like roo's and vegimite


Potentially true; i eat vegemite and i shoot kangaroo frequently.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottath*


Australia....cold? (is atm







.....top of 15c today in Sydney ..... hate winter)


Try Tassie then matey. It's so cold that i have a genital 'innie'.


----------



## Ceadderman

TMFI Mate. TMFI.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


It's so cold that i have...


----------



## digital_steve

But descriptive!!!


----------



## scottath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *digital_steve* 
Try Tassie then matey. It's so cold that i have a genital 'innie'.

hehe.....Tassy.....

Come join the Aussie club btw (link in sig)
Then you can join with Hawk as being the local entertainment....lol

(To all that dont get it.....tassy is like the Australian joke - what got cut off from Australia when the water level rose......now stereotyped by inbreed etc (apparently - well thats the joke anyhow)


----------



## digital_steve

What a horrible thing to say! I only slept with my sister once!


----------



## scottath

hehe.


----------



## kitekrazy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
There is an arrow pointer explaining which way flow directs on the stock Corsair fan. So I'm not sure what exactly the problem is.

At worst my H50 gave me 49c temps and that was cause I was running the Asus APU feature to start with. Even with all the problems that I had with the loose standoffs, my H50 still functioned properly.

Not saying that yours isn't fudged, but my current temps on CPUID HW Monitor...

Minimum of 30c all 4 cores and Maximum 37c all four cores Ambs are currently 75F.

Of course I do have both surfaces lapped and run Push/Pull w/ a shroud. But I can't believe that your H50 if properly set up is running over 50c. Though you do say you are OC'ng so that would acount for an increase in temps. Not sure how much of an increase though.









~Ceadder









There wasn't any arrows. I had to plug it in to be sure. I don't do any over clocking. I haven't had any problems with stability. I don't think the system has ever went past 60c. This is also in that NZXT Evo case running 2 fans at exhaust on top.

Someone had a problem at the Corsair forums with their i7 running at 60c.


----------



## kitekrazy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Muntey* 
The logo side is the front, so air is sucked from behind it and pushed out the front.

So I have the fan in the right direction.


----------



## Mas

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kitekrazy* 
I'm not impressed with this unit.

So far I'm not either. I'm hitting 80-83 degrees while stress testing @4ghz. I've got some scythe gentle typhoons coming in the post. When they arrive, I will try it with them in push pull, and reseat the block using some spare shin etsu I have lying around. If I can get the temps down to an acceptable range, I will use it in my wifes upcoming rig (since I will only be doing a mild 3.5-3.8 OC for her) when I get all my new water cooling parts for the loop I'm replacing the H50 with.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kitekrazy* 
There wasn't any arrows. I had to plug it in to be sure. I don't do any over clocking. I haven't had any problems with stability. I don't think the system has ever went past 60c. This is also in that NZXT Evo case running 2 fans at exhaust on top.

Someone had a problem at the Corsair forums with their i7 running at 60c.

There is arrows on it just have to look on all sides till you find it.

There isn't a problem with an I7 running at 60c that's a perfectly acceptable temp for an I7.


----------



## kitekrazy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


There is arrows on it just have to look on all sides till you find it.

There isn't a problem with an I7 running at 60c that's a perfectly acceptable temp for an I7.


 There wasn't. I looked it over many times. I have the fan on correct there is no air blowing out the back of the case.


----------



## kitekrazy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mas*


So far I'm not either. I'm hitting 80-83 degrees while stress testing @4ghz. I've got some scythe gentle typhoons coming in the post. When they arrive, I will try it with them in push pull, and reseat the block using some spare shin etsu I have lying around. If I can get the temps down to an acceptable range, I will use it in my wifes upcoming rig (since I will only be doing a mild 3.5-3.8 OC for her) when I get all my new water cooling parts for the loop I'm replacing the H50 with.


 My Coolermaster T3 or whatever that $20 is, beats the H50's ass. I've got it in a Thermaltake V3 case with the CPU fan blowing out the top of the case. It rarely gets above 50c.

Part of it may be due to this system is sitting on a desk with a shelf over it. Eventually it will be moved to a computer caddy on the floor.

Even an under performing h50 sure beats the stock AMD heatsink that have a squealing fan. It was the noisiest fan in the system. That's one of the reasons AMD will always be second tier to Intel.


----------



## sesnut

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Regardless of my hearing if my case is closed up and I am 3 foot away with a db meter it doesn't move so I would say that meets everyone's perception of quiet. Unless you sit with your ear to the side of your computer to judge how quiet it is...


db meters dont mean squat

my case is 2 feet away from me and i have the fan plugged into a pwm port and when my cpu starts doing **** and it spins up to 1700 rpms *I hear it*.


----------



## Muntey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *muntey* 
i tried using hwmonitor and it is giving me temps about 10-15 above real temp. Which would you guys say is more accurate?

bump.


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Muntey* 
bump.

I just use Core Temp and it seems to give me accurate results. Tried that?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


I just use Core Temp and it seems to give me accurate results. Tried that?


Agreed - try Core Temp.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sesnut*


db meters dont mean squat

my case is 2 feet away from me and i have the fan plugged into a pwm port and when my cpu starts doing **** and it spins up to 1700 rpms *I hear it*.


First you say my hearing might be bad(I am old but I still have the hearing of a 20 year old)so I offer non human db meter that I have to use where I work and they are not valid either....sorry you got a bad fan I have seen no one else here complain about the stock corsair fan being loud except you.

When I used the H50 with stock fan I didn't use the PWM controls at all it was 1700rpm always never heard a sound from the fan I could hear the sound from HDDs spinning their platters and reading from them but again not the fan and the WD Black 1tb drive is not very loud at all so if the fan did make much noise not like I wouldn't have heard it.

I am sorry you have a bad fan with your H50 you might contact corsair since the H50 has a two year warranty explain your problem and get a replacement.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well that's part of the issue right there, you're rollin a NZXT case. While I'm rollin 932s'.









FWIW I have the 955 BE MBOX chip, and have never run 60c. So I'm thinking your best bet is to move that Rad and play with Intake/Exhaust to find the sweet spot. Sticker side is indeed Intake however. The Corsair fan is a Yate Loon low speed fan. But I am surprised there's no raised arrows on the exterior.

Anyway, the Intel CPUs' run hotter than AMD chips. So I wouldn't apply their experienced temps to what you would run. See if you can find some AMD owners talking about their experiences. That would be more appropriate.









Disregard the AMD comparison. I just noticed this... "Intel DG33BU\\Q6600\\8GB RAM\\W7x64" in your sig. My bad.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *kitekrazy* 
There wasn't any arrows. I had to plug it in to be sure. I don't do any over clocking. I haven't had any problems with stability. I don't think the system has ever went past 60c. This is also in that NZXT Evo case running 2 fans at exhaust on top.

Someone had a problem at the Corsair forums with their i7 running at 60c.


----------



## Bodycount

^^^ On almost all if not all fans the sticker side or the side that the hub is mounted to is *always* exhaust


----------



## sesnut

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


First you say my hearing might be bad(I am old but I still have the hearing of a 20 year old)so I offer non human db meter that I have to use where I work and they are not valid either....sorry you got a bad fan I have seen no one else here complain about the stock corsair fan being loud except you.

When I used the H50 with stock fan I didn't use the PWM controls at all it was 1700rpm always never heard a sound from the fan I could hear the sound from HDDs spinning their platters and reading from them but again not the fan and the WD Black 1tb drive is not very loud at all so if the fan did make much noise not like I wouldn't have heard it.

I am sorry you have a bad fan with your H50 you might contact corsair since the H50 has a two year warranty explain your problem and get a replacement.


i have 2 h50s and the fans both sound the same; there is nothing wrong with them

get your hearing checked

the stock fans are akasas as in "The model AK174CB-4BLB cooling fan has a 50,000 hour life span and a twin ball bearing design. This fan consumes 2.2W when running at 1700RPM and has a noise level of 29.75 dB(A). The max airflow is 59.05CFM with a static pressure of 3.57mm H20."

if you cant hear 29 db, which will be louder as its pushing air through a rad, then you need to get your hearing checked.


----------



## dracotonisamond

i just found the H50 to be awesome. its holding down my 4.217GHz 980x with some decent temperatures. 32C idle and it only kisses 70C after a hour and a half of prime. and im not using the best fans either. damn good little unit we have here.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sesnut* 
i have 2 h50s and the fans both sound the same; there is nothing wrong with them

get your hearing checked

the stock fans are akasas as in "The model AK174CB-4BLB cooling fan has a 50,000 hour life span and a twin ball bearing design. This fan consumes 2.2W when running at 1700RPM and has a noise level of 29.75 dB(A). The max airflow is 59.05CFM with a static pressure of 3.57mm H20."

if you cant hear 29 db, which will be louder as its pushing air through a rad, then you need to get your hearing checked.

I've never heard the stock fan past my graphics card. . .


----------



## Ceadderman

I kind of wish I had the stock fans. My Yates would drown them out.









Not that they are loud, but they're louder than the supplied fan that's for certain.
















But I was a murderous Git and hacked up the stock fan and turned its body into a shroud for my Push/Pull kit. Can't bring the poor bugger back from the dead.









~Ceadder


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
I kind of wish I had the stock fans. My Yates would drown them out.









Not that they are loud, but they're louder than the supplied fan that's for certain.
















But I was a murderous Git and hacked up the stock fan and turned its body into a shroud for my Push/Pull kit. Can't bring the poor bugger back from the dead.









~Ceadder









I didn't have screws available the other day to do the shroud like I wanted so I took a knife and cut through my stock fan into the outer holes and wiggled my screw past them so they could go to the inner hole and fit through the shroud into the rad.

Was alot of work but it did do just what it was supposed too.


----------



## Ceadderman

Lol I thought that I would have to wait on my screws since my dork brother kept forgetting to cut them. Finally I just grabbed a pair of wire cutting pliers and lopped the tops off them. They were a lot easier to cut than I thought they would be. I'm OCD so I'm usually on the "there is a correct tool for every job" type of guy. My gramps instilled that in me @ a very young age. But I got fed up had a spare bolt from the 5 pack I got and cut 3 of them down. And then I sprayed them black. They need to be touched up but I can do those one at a time.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
I didn't have screws available the other day to do the shroud like I wanted so I took a knife and cut through my stock fan into the outer holes and wiggled my screw past them so they could go to the inner hole and fit through the shroud into the rad.

Was alot of work but it did do just what it was supposed too.


----------



## PC_GAMER

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TwwIX* 
Disable SMARTFAN and put it on Manual.

And then do i just make sure it's running at full rpm for the pump and CPU Fan?


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Lol I thought that I would have to wait on my screws since my dork brother kept forgetting to cut them. Finally I just grabbed a pair of wire cutting pliers and lopped the tops off them. They were a lot easier to cut than I thought they would be. I'm OCD so I'm usually on the "there is a correct tool for every job" type of guy. My gramps instilled that in me @ a very young age. But I got fed up had a spare bolt from the 5 pack I got and cut 3 of them down. And then I sprayed them black. They need to be touched up but I can do those one at a time.









~Ceadder










I would been okay if they had supplied extra screws for a push pull but I just settled for breaking a crap(super loud with very little air movement.) fan and making it a shroud.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PC_GAMER*


And then do i just make sure it's running at full rpm for the pump and CPU Fan?


The fan on the rad is the one with the PWM control. The pump should be running at full unless you lower it's voltage.


----------



## mattw

Just fitted my H50 and what difference -drop of 15Â°C when idling compared to the stock cooler.

I have fitted it as an exhaust to the back of the case in a push/pull setup using a gentle typhoon (push) and the stock antec tricool (pull).

Ran prime for an hour with the tricool fan on slowest speed and got a max temp of 47Â°C (ambient ~20Â°C).

Idle temp 31Â°C.

Some pics:

Stock









H50


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sesnut* 
i have 2 h50s and the fans both sound the same; there is nothing wrong with them

get your hearing checked

the stock fans are akasas as in "The model AK174CB-4BLB cooling fan has a 50,000 hour life span and a twin ball bearing design. This fan consumes 2.2W when running at 1700RPM and has a noise level of 29.75 dB(A). The max airflow is 59.05CFM with a static pressure of 3.57mm H20."

if you cant hear 29 db, which will be louder as its pushing air through a rad, then you need to get your hearing checked.

My hearing is checked every 6 months because of where I work. They where just checked 2 weeks ago. It is a requirement of my job I can still hear both high and low pitches that at my age I shouldn't be able to even hear(as mentioned earlier the same as someone in their 20's).

Regardless of my hearing if you knew anything about professional db meters you wouldn't simply dismiss them.

Sorry you have a problem with the fans being too loud but 10k+ pages of people have no complaints maybe you should see a doctor about your extra sensitive hearing.


----------



## PC_GAMER

deleted


----------



## PC_GAMER

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


I would been okay if they had supplied extra screws for a push pull but I just settled for breaking a crap(super loud with very little air movement.) fan and making it a shroud.

The fan on the rad is the one with the PWM control. The pump should be running at full unless you lower it's voltage.


Sorry am not too sure what the PWM is? And the pump will just run at full when i switch the PC on? it's a new build and not been switched on yet.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PC_GAMER* 
Sorry am not too sure what the PWM is? And the pump will just run at full when i switch the PC on? it's a new build and not been switched on yet.

*Pulse Width Modulation (PWM)* refers to the method of applying a signal to the fan that will vary the width of the fan's pulse. An 80% duty cycle means that the fan is "on" 80% of the time and "off" 20% of the time. A 50% duty cycle signal means that the fan is "on" 50% of the time and "off" 50% of the time (similar to a perfect square wave). On a PWM fan, the 4th wire consists of the PWM line and will be directly proportional to the speed of the fan. That is to say, a high duty cycle will produce high speeds and a low duty cycle will produce idle speeds..

SOURCE:
http://www.jmcproducts.com/products/.../pwm_faq.shtml

For the pump to run at 100% it needs to either be plugged directly into psu or setup in the bios as in disabling power saving features like (Cool and Quiet) or (Smart fan) and set to manual 100%


----------



## Magus2727

The advantage of a PWM fan is that ith the pluse as discribed above... the voltage is still alays at 12 volts.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PC_GAMER* 
Sorry am not too sure what the PWM is? And the pump will just run at full when i switch the PC on? it's a new build and not been switched on yet.

Sparing you the techincal description.

PWM is when you have a fan with 4 pin connectors that can have an feature which lowers or raises the fan speed varying on the temperature of the cpu. through the systems bios. The fan for the H50 is 4 pin PWM, and the pump is three pin fixed RPM motor(unless you change the voltage.)


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
Sparing you the techincal description.

PWM is when you have a fan with 4 pin connectors that can have an feature which lowers or raises the fan speed varying on the temperature of the cpu. through the systems bios. The fan for the H50 is 4 pin PWM, and the pump is three pin fixed RPM motor(unless you change the voltage.)

What do you imply with "Fixed Rpm"? The rpm of the pump is not fixed and set in stone









And as for a technical description its well writen and pretty simple.
Not to mention i dont want to add to this thread just my 2 cents and mis-information theres enough of that


----------



## sesnut

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
My hearing is checked every 6 months because of where I work. They where just checked 2 weeks ago. It is a requirement of my job I can still hear both high and low pitches that at my age I shouldn't be able to even hear(as mentioned earlier the same as someone in their 20's).

Regardless of my hearing if you knew anything about professional db meters you wouldn't simply dismiss them.

Sorry you have a problem with the fans being too loud but 10k+ pages of people have no complaints maybe you should see a doctor about your extra sensitive hearing.

my hearing is better than yours and theres a problem with them?
denial much?

this thread only has 1000+ pages, not 10000. maybe you should get your vision checked too


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
What do you imply with "Fixed Rpm"? The rpm of the pump is not fixed and set in stone









And as for a technical description its well writen and pretty simple.
Not to mention i dont want to add to this thread just my 2 cents and mis-information theres enough of that









It's fixed as long as you keep the voltage the same. Or at least I don't know(Nor wish for it too) how to make it run slower. . .

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sesnut* 
my hearing is better than yours and theres a problem with them?
denial much?

this thread only has 1000+ pages, not 10000. maybe you should get your vision checked too

May I ask if you have a fan grill next to your fan? Not a custom one just that stock honeycome grill on most cases.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sesnut*


my hearing is better than yours and theres a problem with them?
denial much?

this thread only has 1000+ pages, not 10000. maybe you should get your vision checked too


Eyes.. ears.. maybe you need your attitude checked.
Check the post count. Typos happen.

A attitude is who you are. Whats your excuse?

Nuff Said









Edit:
OH NO! Post #666 It figures it would be of this nature


----------



## Magus2727

PMW fans use a fixed voltage. The 4 wires do the following:
1. Positive voltage
2. Ground
3. Feedback for rpm sensing
4. A varying duty Square wave.

A regular 3 pin fan is missing pin 4 from above.

No how it works... a PMW fan adjusts the duty cycle of the square wave to change the rpm.

A 3 pin fan changes the voltage to change the rpm.

Pumps should stay at the rated voltage...I am sure corsair has thought of that, but to be on the safe side it should only be ran at the nominal voltage of 12 volts. That means turning off the auto rpm feature on that fan header. By doing so it will be and stay 12 regardless of cpu temp.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sesnut*


my hearing is better than yours and theres a problem with them?
denial much?

this thread only has 1000+ pages, not 10000. maybe you should get your vision checked too


The hearing problem is not mine I don't have a problem with the sound of the fan and the 1000+ pages of posts don't either only you.

I only come here to help others you obviously do not have a problem other than your own hearing problems so I cannot help you there.

Again sorry about your problem with your hearing hopefully with some medication and maybe counseling you can get that all fixed.


----------



## sesnut

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


May I ask if you have a fan grill next to your fan? Not a custom one just that stock honeycome grill on most cases.


a separate grill or the holes in the case themselves?

latter yes, former no


----------



## sesnut

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


The hearing problem is not mine I don't have a problem with the sound of the fan and the 1000+ pages of posts don't either only you.

I only come here to help others you obviously do not have a problem other than your own hearing problems so I cannot help you there.

Again sorry about your problem with your hearing hopefully with some medication and maybe counseling you can get that all fixed.


you want to reread your first response again?

i disagreed with you and you flat out started arguing with me by saying that its silent period.

maybe instead of being a an arrogant ass you could pay attention to what youre saying next time


----------



## ukic

Can I join the club?


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sesnut*


a separate grill or the holes in the case themselves?

latter yes, former no


Reason why I asked is the grill on most cases can actually cause alot of noise. I noticed this on my last(crap) fan. It was near silent while off the case but when pushed against the honey comb of the case it made this awefull noise.

Pretty soon I am gonna break out the Dremel(when I get time) and cut the honeycomb out so it doesn't make that noise. Other then that my H50 fan ais very quiet, even at 100% I can't hear it even over my PSU's fan. . .Let alone my video cards.


----------



## Magus2727

Due to the large number or people you add your self to the list by going to the first post and adding your name to the google document.


----------



## ukic

cool ty


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sesnut*


you want to reread your first response again?

i disagreed with you and you flat out started arguing with me by saying that its silent period.

maybe instead of being a an arrogant ass you could pay attention to what youre saying next time


I stand by what I said.

You attacked me after I didn't agree with you once.

If you took it the way you did again I don't need the help maybe seeing a psychologist and getting on some meds to level yourself out more would be in your best interest.

Others here even brought up an idea that I didn't think to bring up. Having a grill can cause the noise you hear; have you tried moving it to a place without a grill or just not having it attached to where the grill is to see if that is your problem?


----------



## digital_steve

This thread ends up in a flame stand-off WAY more than it should
I can't believe people are taking offence at what one can hear and what one can't.

If you can hear it and it's annoying, get a different fan. If you can't hear it, f*ckin' fantastic and let's all dance a jig.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


This thread ends up in a flame stand-off WAY more than it should
I can't believe people are taking offence at what one can hear and what one can't.

If you can hear it and it's annoying, get a different fan. If you can't hear it, f*ckin' fantastic and let's all dance a jig.


I hear that! Well said.

I need to shut my mouth sometimes








Letting someone make a complete ass of themselves is much better than anything i can say in response


----------



## Bodycount

*
Quote:



Originally Posted by Carfanatic


I been trying to find something to filter more than the front of my case already does and not restrict airflow too much.

Has anyone tried aluminum fan filters like these:

I just wonder if they restrict air flow much or should say too much for what they do.


*

Really nice thanks for the images

This was a bordom type thing and i now realize more than ever i need some sort of filter i guess the key here is to find filters that doesn't restrict airflow.

I have a 12 inch fan that blows up my wall that creates a ton of dust and grime much more with me being a smoker so close to my system









Thanks again


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Really nice thanks for the images

This was a bordom type thing and i now realize more than ever i need some sort of filter i guess the key here is to find filters that doesn't restrict airflow.

I have a 12 inch fan that blows up my wall that creates a ton of dust and grime much more with me being a smoker so close to my system









Thanks again


I found some on ebay you can get 2 for $7.00 free shipping best deal I found I can send you a link if you want it. I just bought a set a few minutes ago and hope they don't restrict too much.

Also for anyone looking to seal fans/shrouds/radiator with rubber if you don't mind UV Green ebay again for $1.99 shipped msg me for links.


----------



## WTHbot

So I took off my fan grills and yes I can confirm. . .

The Sound has subsided dramatically.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


So I took off my fan grills and yes I can confirm. . .

The Sound has subsided dramatically.


Thanks for clearing that up *SOMEBODY* may not understand turbulent and buffeted airflow.

Again thanks for your time


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Thanks for clearing that up *SOMEBODY* may not understand turbulent and buffeted airflow.

Again thanks for your time


I don't have a degree in areodynamics but I know what sounds louder when I do it. And that as causing a major problem!

I'm still shocked at the difference.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


So I took off my fan grills and yes I can confirm. . .

The Sound has subsided dramatically.


One of my first mods was to dremel out all the honey comb grills from my CM 690... You are correct, its does cut down the noise.

Intake fans where covered by one of these...(see pic) catches the dust nicely.

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=12957

They come in 120 and 140mm


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


One of my first mods was to dremel out all the honey comb grills from my CM 690... You are correct, its does cut down the noise.

Intake fans where covered by one of these...(see pic) catches the dust nicely.

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=12957

They come in 120 and 140mm


nice.. sethy

it looks like some sort of microfiber
Does it restrict airflow by much?


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


One of my first mods was to dremel out all the honey comb grills from my CM 690... You are correct, its does cut down the noise.

Intake fans where covered by one of these...(see pic) catches the dust nicely.

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=12957

They come in 120 and 140mm


Wow those are nice, and expensive, but really really nice. I bet those let you keep the full color of LED fans if you used them.

BTW: what is the point of Honeycomb grills? I mean other then to protect your fingers. . .


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


nice.. sethy

it looks like some sort of microfiber
Does it restrict airflow by much?


Sort of a nylon micro fibre. Just peel off (magnetic) and wash them under warm water. No noticable airflow issues.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


Wow those are nice, and expensive, but really really nice. I bet those let you keep the full color of LED fans if you used them.

BTW: what is the point of Honeycomb grills? I mean other then to protect your fingers. . .


Yep - you can see the fan LED colour through them.

Grills, I cant think of any other purpose but to protect your fingers. I figure if you go sticking bits if your anatomy where they arent supposed to go... you need a lesson in pain


----------



## Ceadderman

I can attest that the DCMiflex filters do not restrict flow much if at all. I have the 932 kit minus the additional top filter and I love these things. Soon as I can I'm going to buy another set so I can hot swap them instead of shutting down my system to rinse them off.

Oh I also got their GPU filters(x2) as well.

I pretty much figure I don't have to filter my Exhaust P/P setup cause I'm pretty well filtered from dust and debris as it is. The only time I'm not is when I run without my side doors. They may have cost me $44 before shipping is applied but they're well worth the hassle and I didn't have to use ladies hosiery to filter my system. Oh and to clear it up, they're medical grade screening.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Blazing angel

ok boys, im about to jump into this bandwagon

antec 300- is it safe to mount on the rear exhaust sucking air out of the case, will this
really affect performance?

cpu's is going to be a i3 530. is this overkill?


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blazing angel* 
ok boys, im about to jump into this bandwagon

antec 300- is it safe to mount on the rear exhaust sucking air out of the case, will this
really affect performance?

cpu's is going to be a i3 530. is this overkill?

More then likely, and if you ever want to upgrade then you can take this with you. Personally everyone should have 1 good simple cooler just sitting around or in a build that you don't need so much.

Also you are safe exhausting or intaking, but in that case I would suggest Exhaust.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blazing angel* 
ok boys, im about to jump into this bandwagon

antec 300- is it safe to mount on the rear exhaust sucking air out of the case, will this
really affect performance?

cpu's is going to be a i3 530. is this overkill?

Perfectly safe. I think that case is setup already to exhaust out the back so if that is your mounting point for the H50 it should remain as exhaust.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
I can attest that the DCMiflex filters do not restrict flow much if at all. I have the 932 kit minus the additional top filter and I love these things. Soon as I can I'm going to buy another set so I can hot swap them instead of shutting down my system to rinse them off.

Oh I also got their GPU filters(x2) as well.

I pretty much figure I don't have to filter my Exhaust P/P setup cause I'm pretty well filtered from dust and debris as it is. The only time I'm not is when I run without my side doors. They may have cost me $44 before shipping is applied but they're well worth the hassle and I didn't have to use ladies hosiery to filter my system. Oh and to clear it up, they're medical grade screening.







lol

~Ceadder









I found a cheaper place than sethy's link(thanks for the link of these filters Sethy) they only offer limited size filters though http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g47/...ers-Page1.html

Where did you purchase your kit for your 932 from?
Does anyone know where to find a place that sells custom sizes? I need one for my 220mm side fan.


----------



## looser101

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...36_463_500_514

http://www.demcifilter.com/ --- if you need custom


----------



## Blazing angel

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Perfectly safe. I think that case is setup already to exhaust out the back so if that is your mounting point for the H50 it should remain as exhaust.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
More then likely, and if you ever want to upgrade then you can take this with you. Personally everyone should have 1 good simple cooler just sitting around or in a build that you don't need so much.

Also you are safe exhausting or intaking, but in that case I would suggest Exhaust.

ok thanks guys (esp for the quick response







)

Q2 my case already has a fan there (antec 300 comes with a antec tri cool). would it be safe to install both the stock h50 fan with the tri cool as pusher pull?

Q3: would this be safe ot run on a 300w power supply with no discrete gpu. its a calrkdale, using the internal gpu. it uses almost now power. + the 4 tri cool fasn (about 5w each right?)

Q4: if i read correctly, the pipes to the RAD (inboard/out) should be on the bottom right when mounted vertically to reduce the risk of air?

like This
__
l__l
* * the box is the radiator, the * are the tubes


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^

Q2 Run your Tri Cool in Push @ exhaust. The weaker fan should be Pull.

Q3 Yes perfectly safe to run with a 300w PSU as it is controlled via MoBo. Unless your MoBo doesn't have enough connections. Then you run the Pump via molex lead w/ 4pin Mole w/ 3pin connector pigtail. Fans can daisy off the CPU connection w/o issue. /^^^

I got my kit from Performance-PCs.com actually.

I looked up the filters at Frozen and they didn't have the 932/922 kits which is too bad cause I identified some parts that I would have gotten from them had they had my kit as well. Nothing wrong with them at all. But I did notice their prices did not match my demand.









I don't know if they carry custom sizes though, other than the two kits that I found. The 932 kit includes the side door filter which covers a 200/230 fan quite well. So if you didn't mind the expense of buying the full kit I'm sure it would work for you, worse comes to worse.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
I found a cheaper place than sethy's link(thanks for the link of these filters Sethy) they only offer limited size filters though http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g47/...ers-Page1.html

Where did you purchase your kit for your 932 from?
Does anyone know where to find a place that sells custom sizes? I need one for my 220mm side fan.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blazing angel*


ok thanks guys (esp for the quick response







)

Q2 my case already has a fan there (antec 300 comes with a antec tri cool). would it be safe to install both the stock h50 fan with the tri cool as pusher pull?

Q3: would this be safe ot run on a 300w power supply with no discrete gpu. its a calrkdale, using the internal gpu. it uses almost now power. + the 4 tri cool fasn (about 5w each right?)

Q4: if i read correctly, the pipes to the RAD (inboard/out) should be on the bottom right when mounted vertically to reduce the risk of air?

like This
__
l__l
* * the box is the radiator, the * are the tubes


1. Yes Push pull setup is fairly common with good results. Espcially with the Tri--cools as they are excellent fans.

2.The power to run this is well under 20w if I remember correctly. Just make sure you have enough connectors.

3.The Rad and the waterblock can be mounted in which ever way will be most convenient for you. Some people like the water block with the logo upside down to take away the risk of air getting trapped in the pump but I doubt that will happen cause this is a completely closed off system.


----------



## Bodycount

Welcome to OCN Blazing angel









If you can please fill out your system specs.. At the top of the page you will find (user cp) then you will see the column on the left.. click on (add system) and fill in your system specs the best you can. This will help us help you in the future with any questions you might have


----------



## Blazing angel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Welcome to OCN Blazing angel









If you can please fill out your system specs.. At the top of the page you will find usercp then you will see the column on the left.. click on add system and fill in your system specs the best you can. This will help us help you in the future with any questions you might have










i will enjoy this forum a lot






















well, i dont really have the computer yet,







damn $$$$

but it will be 
antec 300 illusion
asus p7h57d-v EVO
intel i3 530
Clarkdale graphics
300w power supply. 
24a at the 12v rail

edit WOOT 1100 page


----------



## Bodycount

Page 1100 incoming






















Oh beat me to it


----------



## Ksireaper

Rig is finally done.


----------



## Blazing angel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


1. Yes Push pull setup is fairly common with good results. Espcially with the Tri--cools as they are excellent fans.

2.The power to run this is well under 20w if I remember correctly. Just make sure you have enough connectors.

3.The Rad and the waterblock can be mounted in which ever way will be most convenient for you. Some people like the water block with the logo upside down to take away the risk of air getting trapped in the pump but I doubt that will happen cause this is a completely closed off system.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


^^^

Q2 Run your Tri Cool in Push @ exhaust. The weaker fan should be Pull.

Q3 Yes perfectly safe to run with a 300w PSU as it is controlled via MoBo. Unless your MoBo doesn't have enough connections. Then you run the Pump via molex lead w/ 4pin Mole w/ 3pin connector pigtail. Fans can daisy off the CPU connection w/o issue. /^^^

I got my kit from Performance-PCs.com actually.

I looked up the filters at Frozen and they didn't have the 932/922 kits which is too bad cause I identified some parts that I would have gotten from them had they had my kit as well. Nothing wrong with them at all. But I did notice their prices did not match my demand.









I don't know if they carry custom sizes though, other than the two kits that I found. The 932 kit includes the side door filter which covers a 200/230 fan quite well. So if you didn't mind the expense of buying the full kit I'm sure it would work for you, worse comes to worse.









~Ceadder










woo thanks for the help guys. Cleared a lot of questions


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ksireaper*


Rig is finally done.

[snip]

[snip]


Nice and clean!
Just the way I like it.

And in one of the best cases I've ever own!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blazing angel*


woo thanks for the help guys. Cleared a lot of questions


















Don't be afraid to ask! We are always here to help!


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I got my kit from Performance-PCs.com actually.

I looked up the filters at Frozen and they didn't have the 932/922 kits which is too bad cause I identified some parts that I would have gotten from them had they had my kit as well. Nothing wrong with them at all. But I did notice their prices did not match my demand.









I don't know if they carry custom sizes though, other than the two kits that I found. The 932 kit includes the side door filter which covers a 200/230 fan quite well. So if you didn't mind the expense of buying the full kit I'm sure it would work for you, worse comes to worse.









~Ceadder










I need 3x120mm and then 1x220m I would have to order the kit and then more on top if it to make it work so dunno if I want to spend that much on just filters. I found demci filters main website they offer custom sizes I just have to send an email hopefully not too much $$.


----------



## Magus2727

I have Case Envy!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I found a cheaper place than sethy's link(thanks for the link of these filters Sethy) they only offer limited size filters though http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g47/...ers-Page1.html


Of course you found them cheaper... Im from Australia.

EVERYTHING is over priced here... gotta love the global economy.









Nice setup *Ksireaper*


----------



## Blazing angel

Considering the h50's block, it comes with thermal paste pre applied. Would it be a good idea to clean this off with a solution (ie articlean), then replace it with, oh lets say artic silver 5? i hope its not some gereric paste


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blazing angel*


Considering the h50's block, it comes with thermal paste pre applied. Would it be a good idea to clean this off with a solution (ie articlean), then replace it with, oh lets say artic silver 5? i hope its not some gereric paste










Ohhhhh dont be doing that. The supplied TIM is good quality Shin Etsu.

Its all I use now


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blazing angel* 
Considering the h50's block, it comes with thermal paste pre applied. Would it be a good idea to clean this off with a solution (ie articlean), then replace it with, oh lets say artic silver 5? i hope its not some gereric paste









That is not generic paste, actually it's the best pre-applied TIM of any block or heatsink I've ever seen.

It uses Shin Etsu 23 which is expensive and scarce but it is some of the best TIM you can get. Do not clean it off cause it is better then AS5(Though I know and love AS5 I didn't clean mine off.)


----------



## Ceadderman

I would have to agree here. Though it is a little thick. You could scrape off the stock TIM, roll it into a ball and then apply what you need from it. But I wouldn't replace the stock TIM(Shin-Etsu G751) with AS5. The Shin-Etsu TIM cures in less than a day. AS5 takes 200 hours to cure.









Make certain to wear gloves if you scrape and roll the stock TIM.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Ohhhhh dont be doing that. The supplied TIM is good quality Shin Etsu.

Its all I use now


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blazing angel* 
Considering the h50's block, it comes with thermal paste pre applied. Would it be a good idea to clean this off with a solution (ie articlean), then replace it with, oh lets say artic silver 5? i hope its not some gereric paste









It actually comes with a TIM that is supposedly better than AS5 it is called Shin Etsu. Now they do put too much on it. I recommend myself putting some clean/new rubber gloves on and taking off the Shin Etsu and balling it up then split it in half and re-apply it so you have the proper amount. I didn't read up on it enough before my install and just removed the Shin Etsu and applied AS5. I am getting very good temps now after the 200 hours of cure time but I just wonder what if I might have gotten a few C lower if I had used the stock TIM.

Also the stock TIM requires 0 cure time(or should say one full cycle-heat up to highest temps and then shut down and cooled to lowest at least once)


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Ohhhhh dont be doing that. The supplied TIM is good quality Shin Etsu.

Its all I use now










Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
That is not generic paste, actually it's the best pre-applied TIM of any block or heatsink I've ever seen.

It uses Shin Etsu 23 which is expensive and scarce but it is some of the best TIM you can get. Do not clean it off cause it is better then AS5(Though I know and love AS5 I didn't clean mine off.)


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
I would have to agree here. Though it is a little thick. You could scrape off the stock TIM, roll it into a ball and then apply what you need from it. But I wouldn't replace the stock TIM(Shin-Etsu G751) with AS5. The Shin-Etsu TIM cures in less than a day. AS5 takes 200 hours to cure.









Make certain to wear gloves if you scrape and roll the stock TIM.









~Ceadder










Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
It actually comes with a TIM that is supposedly better than AS5 it is called Shin Etsu. Now they do put too much on it. I recommend myself putting some clean/new rubber gloves on and taking off the Shin Etsu and balling it up then split it in half and re-apply it so you have the proper amount. I didn't read up on it enough before my install and just removed the Shin Etsu and applied AS5. I am getting very good temps now after the 200 hours of cure time but I just wonder what if I might have gotten a few C lower if I had used the stock TIM.

Also the stock TIM requires 0 cure time(or should say one full cycle-heat up to highest temps and then shut down and cooled to lowest at least once)

Great minds think alike.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Great minds think alike.

Yes we all post facts.


----------



## Blazing angel

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Ohhhhh dont be doing that. The supplied TIM is good quality Shin Etsu.

Its all I use now









ok sounds good less mods









another question
new question, my mobo has 2 chassis fan headers and one power fan header. could this create any connection problems?


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blazing angel* 
ok sounds good less mods









another question
new question, my mobo has 2 chassis fan headers and one power fan header. could this create any connection problems?
















You need two for the pum and the fan. I think there is a way to split them off and add them to molex connectors.


----------



## Blazing angel

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
You need two for the pum and the fan. I think there is a way to split them off and add them to molex connectors.

wait how many pins is each connector? found a answer to my "pin compatibilty question though"
http://www.intel.com/support/motherb.../cs-012074.htm

im really lazy sometimes, so im not going to scrape any compaund off. at most, ill get a credit card, wipe a bit off, the spread the remander

edit: looked at a pic at newgg, its 2 4 pin right?


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blazing angel* 
wait how many pins is each connector? found a answer to my "pin compatibilty question though"
http://www.intel.com/support/motherb.../cs-012074.htm

im really lazy sometimes, so im not going to scrape any compaund off. at most, ill get a credit card, wipe a bit off, the spread the remander

4pins are common on most recent motherboard for fans on rads/heatsinks. 3 pins are used for case fans and for the H50's pump.

the H50 has one 4pin on the fan for the rad, and one 3pin for the pump/block.


----------



## Blazing angel

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
4pins are common on most recent motherboard for fans on rads/heatsinks. 3 pins are used for case fans and for the H50's pump.

i meant what pins are the connectors on the h50? sory for the confusion









nvm saw edit


----------



## Ceadderman

Fan is 4 pin and Pump is 3 pin.

Use one of these and you'll be fine.


















I even use them when the connector doesn't fit to the MoBo, by connecting to a fan that has a Molex connector in the line. I connect the two Moles together an then plug the 3 pin into the Male end. No need to modify it and it works.









Just have to find a reasonable location to hide the Molex coupler.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
You need two for the pum and the fan. I think there is a way to split them off and add them to molex connectors.


----------



## Blazing angel

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
4pins are common on most recent motherboard for fans on rads/heatsinks. 3 pins are used for case fans and for the H50's pump.

the H50 has one 4pin on the fan for the rad, and one 3pin for the pump/block.

perfect for my system of 1 4 pin and 1 3 pin.


----------



## Carfanatic

Very fast reply from DEMCifilter. Guessing I caught them at the right time for them. Here is some pricing directly from them for anyone is interested.

The custom is a 220mm x 220mm filter fan. The non-ferrous includes a sticker magnet to attach the filters to places that are non magnetic.

1x I/D220mm Custom DEMCiflex Filter no [email protected] USD16.00 each

2x 120mm Standard DEMCiflex Filter(non-Ferrous)no [email protected]

1x 120mm Standard DEMCiflex Filter no [email protected]

Postage to USA 12.85

$42.55

Not bad considering a HAF932 kit is $39.99 + shipping.


----------



## Ceadderman

I may get a 120 filter and mount it internally, except that I would have to figure out how to mount it directly to my Pusher.









Thanks for putting those prices up. Much appreciated.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Very fast reply from DEMCifilter. Guessing I caught them at the right time for them. Here is some pricing directly from them for anyone is interested.

The custom is a 220mm x 220mm filter fan. The non-ferrous includes a sticker magnet to attach the filters to places that are non magnetic.

1x I/D220mm Custom DEMCiflex Filter no [email protected] USD16.00 each

2x 120mm Standard DEMCiflex Filter(non-Ferrous)no [email protected]

1x 120mm Standard DEMCiflex Filter no [email protected]
Postage to USA 12.85

$42.55

Not bad considering a HAF932 kit is $39.99 + shipping.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I may get a 120 filter and mount it internally, except that I would have to figure out how to mount it directly to my Pusher.









Thanks for putting those prices up. Much appreciated.









~Ceadder










If you order it directly from them they give you the sticker magnet to mount it to anything even directly to the fan. I dunno from other sites they don't seem to mention anything about non-ferrous filters/kits.

The only bad thing is the only current way for us to pay them is MoneyGram soon Paypal should be going in their country though.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well as I pointed out I'm probably not going to need it. It's just a prophylactic inside a prophylactic at this point since I have the 3 filters on the intake grills.









Though I may get one and use it the way I use the GPU filter I got.









So I'll wait and see how well these filters keep the dust out of my case before going to this extreme.

Looks like I'm off for a few so I can flash my data over to this 320Gb drive. Soon as I have all my stuff backed up I'm going to once again Short Stroke this drive and RAID 0 it and my XP drive which I'm also backing up. Should be an adventure.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
If you order it directly from them they give you the sticker magnet to mount it to anything even directly to the fan. I dunno from other sites they don't seem to mention anything about non-ferrous filters/kits.

The only bad thing is the only current way for us to pay them is MoneyGram soon Paypal should be going in their country though.


----------



## WTHbot

Good morning fellas! How is everyone today?


----------



## Magus2727

Wishing it was end of the work day on Friday....


----------



## WTHbot

I'm wishing I could have a day of work. 

IE. I need a job haha.


----------



## Electroneng

Quote:



So far I'm not either. I'm hitting 80-83 degrees while stress testing @4ghz.


Those temps are way high! Get some Yate loon SH fans and setup unit in push/pull exhaust. I am at 70C- 73C at 4ghz on I7 920. This is max temps during intel burn test run.

I was not impressed either at first but now I prefer the H50 to any air cooler!


----------



## Ksireaper

Another question.

here is my rig.










does the orientation matter for the h50?

do the tube on the bottom decrease performance? would i notice a difference if i turned the H50 over so tubes are coming out the top?


----------



## WTHbot

The H50will perform basically the same either way. It is worth noting that you can mount it at your convenience.


----------



## PC_GAMER

I watched a corsair video. They said make sure the air is blowing through the H50's heatsink grill but the air should blow, not out of the PC but towards the front of the PC for best results. How stupid?? What should i do with my fans? Any tips for best H 50 results you can give me please?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PC_GAMER* 
I watched a corsair video. They said make sure the air is blowing through the H50's heatsink grill but the air should blow, not out of the PC but towards the front of the PC for best results. How stupid?? What should i do with my fans? Any tips for best H 50 results you can give me please?

Without knowing your case/setup there is no way for us to give you tips/suggestions on how best to setup your H50.

At the top of the page it says User CP click on that and then scroll down the System Information and then click Add System

Fill in your motherboard, cpu and your case at the least to help us help you.


----------



## Ceadderman

I'm assuming you're intaking so bear with me here...

You might move your setup up to the highest point and then check the temps after running for a bit. Because you're just over the top of your GPU config and intaking their blowoff right back into the system.

Also IMHO the orientation of your Rad is just fine. The only performance increase you would see would be roughly -1c. While that may seem like alot especially with other modifications. It's also my belief that with the air in the system that flipping the Rad would promote recycling that air back through the pump. This is not good for any liquid pump. These types of pumps unless they have sealed bearings, need liquid to lubricate them. The H50 to my knowledge of bearings does not have sealed units in the pump. If they did the overall pump would be much bigger.

Now I would also point out that the system comes with a 2 year warranty and that lapping it will not void it. So one could mount it in any configuration they choose. Personally I mounted mine on the ceiling of my case as exhaust. No chance air recirculates back into the pump and against the advice of Jeff(Corsair Tech in the Vid) and Corsair.

With an ambient of roughly 72F I'm running 31c today.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ksireaper*


Another question.

here is my rig.










does the orientation matter for the h50?

do the tube on the bottom decrease performance? would i notice a difference if i turned the H50 over so tubes are coming out the top?


----------



## digital_steve

Well... the time has come
Tonight or tomorrow morning is to be dubbed 'digital_steves attempt to pop his lapping cherry'.
Got some glass, got all different grades of paper, almost got the motivation.

If i lap successfully and i see no temp difference, then you're all getting punches!


----------



## Tl2AVlS

Count me in. I'm finally on top of my 6400+ Black. After seeing your rigs though I could only post pics of mine for comic relief. =)


----------



## Ceadderman

lol, Best to you Steve. I have no reason to believe that you have anything but a good outcome.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *digital_steve* 
Well... the time has come
Tonight or tomorrow morning is to be dubbed 'digital_steves attempt to pop his lapping cherry'.
Got some glass, got all different grades of paper, almost got the motivation.

If i lap successfully and i see no temp difference, then you're all getting punches!


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


lol, Best to you Steve. I have no reason to believe that you have anything but a good outcome.









~Ceadder










Cheers mate
Knowing my ham-fisted history, i'll probably **** something up... but hey, it'll give me something to do tonight!

On a side note, HAF X cases just came into stock from my online distributor; i'm very tempted to change from my current case to the HAF X


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *digital_steve* 
Cheers mate
Knowing my ham-fisted history, i'll probably **** something up... but hey, it'll give me something to do tonight!

On a side note, HAF X cases just came into stock from my online distributor; i'm very tempted to change from my current case to the HAF X

If they had offered color choices of fans I would've already bought a HAF X myself but since they only offer the one of red I don't think the price of the case is worth it when you count in the price of buying a fan color of your choosing. I figured they would've learned from the 932 they offered the blue version and many other fan choices you could buy on your own but guess that would be too much to ask.


----------



## Ceadderman

I personally would go with the 932. Both a very similar and yes the X comes with filters and the 932 doesn't, but to be honest the 932 has enough room for a 120 at the bottom of the Case at the end of the PSU and the looks are slightly better imho. The X is nice(has all the goodies) plus has the ability to mount another 230 up top but I expect more from a case that I would have to shell out 2 Ben Franklins for.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *digital_steve* 
Cheers mate
Knowing my ham-fisted history, i'll probably **** something up... but hey, it'll give me something to do tonight!

On a side note, HAF X cases just came into stock from my online distributor; i'm very tempted to change from my current case to the HAF X


----------



## sesnut

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PC_GAMER* 
I watched a corsair video. They said make sure the air is blowing through the H50's heatsink grill but the air should blow, not out of the PC but towards the front of the PC for best results. How stupid?? What should i do with my fans? Any tips for best H 50 results you can give me please?

it depends. the way corsair has it setup, the idea is to blow the air outside of the case(which is cooler) onto the rad. youll most likely have to to experiment with what works best.

for example, in my case i have 2 gtx 470s which are directly below the cpu. if i had it set to blow out of the case, the heat from the cards, which are hotter than the cpu, would rise up and get blown onto the rad. If i have the air blowing into the case, the air going onto the rad is cooler, which gives me lower temperatures, although you would need a proper exhaust setup so the hot air doesnt just stay inside the case

so it really depends on what you have in your case and how your *other* fans are setup


----------



## digital_steve

I'll have a think about the 932 still... i just need a bigger case to be honest and i like the HAF X gpu supporter and GPU fan bay plus the filters in place

As for the fan LED colour... i couldn't care less about that honestly. Some do and i can see why, but it doesn't phase me


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *digital_steve* 
I'll have a think about the 932 still... i just need a bigger case to be honest and i like the HAF X gpu supporter and GPU fan bay plus the filters in place

As for the fan LED colour... i couldn't care less about that honestly. Some do and i can see why, but it doesn't phase me

I'd go with a raven from silverstone....


----------



## nathris

I'm idling at 42C right now.

But then again its about 37 degrees in my room. 5C over ambient ain't bad at all


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nathris* 
I'm idling at 42C right now.

But then again its about 37 degrees in my room. 5C over ambient ain't bad at all









Wow 37?

Is your computer in your body? Cause 37c is the same temperature of your body.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nathris* 
I'm idling at 42C right now.

But then again its about 37 degrees in my room. 5C over ambient ain't bad at all









Very nice. Are you exhausting or intaking?


----------



## nathris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Very nice. Are you exhausting or intaking?

Intaking of course.

Exhaust temps would probably be even worse.

I'm running an undervolted Ultra Kaze on the rear with my H50, I have a red Thermaltake fan intaking at the front, and its all going out the top with my 2 120mm XLFs.

I'm tempted to take my side panel off but the acrylic does a good job of masking the UK's click.


----------



## Kirby.

I recently purchased a Corsair H50 and am now running it in push/pull configuration, two of my cores are usually hotter than the other two.
My question is do I have to tighten the screws or how would I go about getting the two hotter cores cooler?


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kirby.* 
I recently purchased a Corsair H50 and am now running it in push/pull configuration, two of my cores are usually hotter than the other two.
My question is do I have to tighten the screws or how would I go about getting the two hotter cores cooler?

How much hotter are they?


----------



## Kirby.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


How much hotter are they?


Usually only 6 degrees hotter while idling


----------



## Sethy666

Hopefully its just a seating problem. This is the most common problem with this cooler... getting flush with the CPU.

You may want to re-seat and rule that out as a problem.


----------



## Ceadderman

post your Idle/Load temps over the spectrum and your Ambient temp please.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kirby.*


I recently purchased a Corsair H50 and am now running it in push/pull configuration, two of my cores are usually hotter than the other two.
My question is do I have to tighten the screws or how would I go about getting the two hotter cores cooler?


----------



## Kirby.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
post your Idle/Load temps over the spectrum and your Ambient temp please.

~Ceadder









The ambient temp is around 19 degrees, Idle temp is 23 degrees and the load temp is around 36.


----------



## Ceadderman

I'm not seeing a problem here. Intel generally runs slightly hotter than AMD on at least one of 4 cores. It pretty much depends on what those Cores control as to what your core temps will be.









Like currently my AMD system has a 1 degree fluctuation difference on Core 3 because that's my GPU core and I'm in the process of loading up from Hulu. But my drive core also kicks over 3 or so degrees because I'm also downloading "Call of Pripyat" from Steam @ 158.7KB +/- .









Average Core temp @ 72F(whatever the conversion to C is) is between 31c and 34c @tm. Full load is 40c.









~Ceadder


----------



## Archer S

Quote:

post your Idle/Load temps over the spectrum and your Ambient temp please.

~Ceadder
Idle : 37 39 39 40
Load : 58 60 61 59
Ambient : 26


----------



## Kirby.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
I'm not seeing a problem here. Intel generally runs slightly hotter than AMD on at least one of 4 cores. It pretty much depends on what those Cores control as to what your core temps will be.









Like currently my AMD system has a 1 degree fluctuation difference on Core 3 because that's my GPU core and I'm in the process of loading up from Hulu. But my drive core also kicks over 3 or so degrees because I'm also downloading "Call of Pripyat" from Steam @ 158.7KB +/- .









Average Core temp @ 72F(whatever the conversion to C is) is between 31c and 34c @tm. Full load is 40c.









~Ceadder









Would you say that I should still go a head and re seat it?

Edit: 158.7KB I feel a tad sorry for you, I was getting 1.5MB with team fortress 2


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kirby.* 
Would you say that I should still go a head and re seat it?

If you can live with it - no.

If its going to bug you and you dont want to die wondering - yes.

What TIM would you use for the re-seat?


----------



## Kirby.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
If you can live with it - no.

If its going to bug you and you dont want to die wondering - yes.

What TIM would you use for the re-seat?

If I were to re-seat it I would most probably keep the original TIM.
If I remember correctly there might have been some original thermal paste from the Intel CPU cooler.


----------



## TwwIX

Here are the results of my i7 920 3.8GHz overclock.

http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/181...01045828pm.png

http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/763...01045736pm.png

http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/4962/octemps.jpg

I are happy!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kirby.* 
If I were to re-seat it I would most probably keep the original TIM.
If I remember correctly there might have been some original thermal paste from the Intel CPU cooler.

Hmmm... reusing TIM is contentious. How long have you have the cooler in place? If its been a while, consider new TIM.

I would also advise against stock intel TIM.

If you reseat, get some Shin Etsu or MX-3 or something like that.

I note you live in Melbourne... I use this supplier, they are very good.

Quote:

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php

TwwIX - very nice!

Question for everyone: In relation to LINX. Is one of the goals (apart from stability) to have a lower time or higher GFLOPs OR try to achieve a combination of both?


----------



## Kirby.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Hmmm... reusing TIM is contentious. How long have you have the cooler in place? If its been a while, consider new TIM.

I would also advise against stock intel TIM.

If you reseat, get some Shin Etsu or MX-3 or something like that.

I note you live in Melbourne... I use this supplier, they are very good.

TwwIX - very nice!

Question for everyone: In relation to LINX. Is one of the goals (apart from stability) to have a lower time or higher GFLOPs OR try to achieve a combination of both?


I bought the H50 from them on Monday and only installed it on Wednesday.
and out of that it has had about 2 days run time.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kirby.*


I bought the H50 from them on Monday and only installed it on Wednesday.
and out of that it has had about 2 days run time.


Yeah... give it a fly. If the temps start going weird, that will be the reason.


----------



## sesnut

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kirby.* 
If I were to re-seat it I would most probably keep the original TIM.
If I remember correctly there might have been some original thermal paste from the Intel CPU cooler.

you didnt clean off the stock tim that was leftover from the stock cooler?...

its fairly common for intel cores to be off by up to 9 degrees on different cores, unless you know that the cores were all the same on the stock cooler


----------



## Kirby.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sesnut*


you didnt clean off the stock tim that was leftover from the stock cooler?...

its fairly common for intel cores to be off by up to 9 degrees on different cores, unless you know that the cores were all the same on the stock cooler


Nah I didn't, I was in a bit of a hurry and didn't thinking that it was that important at the time.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kirby.*


Nah I didn't, I was in a bit of a hurry and didn't thinking that it was that important at the time.










Have we not taught you anything young Padawan?

Reseat the pump, clean all the TIM off both the CPU and the pump head. Write out one hundred times "I will clean off old TIM" and report back with your temps.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 







Have we not taught you anything young Padawan?

Reseat the pump, clean all the TIM off both the CPU and the pump head. Write out one hundred times "I will clean off old TIM" and report back with your temps.

Only one hundred your making it too easy on him I always required my students to do it 1000 times while standing on their head with ankle weights on.


----------



## Ceadderman

Bah, young Padawan stuff. I make them perform a Sith single hand 2 fingerstand 2 inches over a pool of PiraÃ±a while standing on their off balance foot and have them carve it into solid granite with their light saber as I alternately force choke them and force grab the occasional PiraÃ±a and stuff it into their knickers.

That'll teach em every time.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Only one hundred your making it too easy on him I always required my students to do it 1000 times while standing on their head with ankle weights on.


----------



## Kirby.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*









Have we not taught you anything young Padawan?

Reseat the pump, clean all the TIM off both the CPU and the pump head. Write out one hundred times "I will clean off old TIM" and report back with your temps.











Now I'm going to have to wait a ridiculous amount of time for thermal paste since the local computer store fails.

I am sorry master.
*facepalm*


----------



## Blazing angel

im back guys, and one new question, how long have you all had your h50's?








love to hear of good runtimes









also, is it wise to remove a bit of thermal paste from a new h50, and spread the rest?


----------



## Blazing angel

what is stronger? a antec tri cool or a h50 default fan


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blazing angel* 
what is stronger? a antec tri cool or a h50 default fan

tricool on high, but there are much better fans out there


----------



## Epsi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blazing angel* 
im back guys, and one new question, how long have you all had your h50's?








love to hear of good runtimes









also, is it wise to remove a bit of thermal paste from a new h50, and spread the rest?

Mine is running for like 8 - 9 months now. Not a single problem. Still running with the stock fan as a back intake. Just orderd 2x Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm for a push/pull config.

As the thermal paste, dunno i removed it and replaced it with AS5.


----------



## TheLastPriest

So I am installing an i7 930 into my sig rig tonight, going to hook up my H50 on it, any tips/tricks/recommendations I should know for the change from Phenom II to i7?


----------



## PC_GAMER

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Without knowing your case/setup there is no way for us to give you tips/suggestions on how best to setup your H50.

At the top of the page it says User CP click on that and then scroll down the System Information and then click Add System

Fill in your motherboard, cpu and your case at the least to help us help you.


Well my case is the antec 900. Can i attach the heatsink to the back case fan then attach the corsair 120mm fan to the otherside of the h50's heatsink? If so, how? Cheers. My motherboard is the GA-X58A-UD3R.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheLastPriest*


So I am installing an i7 930 into my sig rig tonight, going to hook up my H50 on it, any tips/tricks/recommendations I should know for the change from Phenom II to i7?


The temps will be quite a bit higher but this is normal so dont panic








You more than likely knew this though


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PC_GAMER*


Well my case is the antec 900. Can i attach the heatsink to the back case fan then attach the corsair 120mm fan to the otherside of the h50's heatsink? If so, how? Cheers. My motherboard is the GA-X58A-UD3R.


Log in and fill this out so its easier to help you
http://www.overclock.net/specs.php?do=addsystem


----------



## PC_GAMER

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ksireaper*


Another question.

here is my rig.










does the orientation matter for the h50?

do the tube on the bottom decrease performance? would i notice a difference if i turned the H50 over so tubes are coming out the top?


How do i install my h50 like the one in this picture. (the heatsink inbetween the 2 fans.)


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PC_GAMER*


How do i install my h50 like the one in this picture. (the heatsink inbetween the 2 fans.)


Is your question about screws and how to use 2 fans with 4 screws?
If so just use 2 screws for each fan offset from each other.

Example:

one screw in the top left and one screw in the bottom right and repeat on the other fan








Using two screws offset like this per fan is plenty strong enough


----------



## PC_GAMER

Thank you for the info


----------



## Ikthus

Alright so I finally got the screws I needed to add in my shroud...but I'm not sure where I should place it. Which setup would be better?

<--Fan--Shroud--Rad--Fan

or

<--Fan-Rad--Shroud--Fan


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ikthus*


Alright so I finally got the screws I needed to add in my shroud...but I'm not sure where I should place it. Which setup would be better?

<--Fan--Shroud--Rad--Fan

or

<--Fan-Rad--Shroud--Fan


<--Fan-Rad--Shroud--Fan

This way your push fan wont have the dead spot whilst pushing through the fins. This worked better for me. Its really about what works best for you in your situation,case,gear


----------



## WTHbot

The first, the pull set up is generally better. Or you could test for yourself.


----------



## Reptar

Here is my i7 930 at 4.01Ghz, Push/Pull with two Xigmateks XLF-1254's.
Ran Prime95 for a little over an hour. About 78C on load, idles at about 40C. Should I go down to 3.8Ghz?


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

its up to you but if i were going to drop it down id go 3.9 or 3.95 just that little drop should get you the temps youre looking for.

oh and i would leave it where it is. 4.0 sounds meaner than 3.9.... thats why the old mustangs were called 5.0's instead of 4.9's


----------



## Ceadderman

This









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


<--Fan-Rad--Shroud--Fan

This way your push fan wont have the dead spot whilst pushing through the fins. This worked better for me. Its really about what works best for you in your situation,case,gear


----------



## bobisgod

I have a h50, but it is I dont think it should be considered water cooling.


----------



## Blazing angel

what's a shroud? i have a antec 300, cant wait for ze h50.


----------



## Magus2727

Its a spacer that pushes the fan away from the radiator but keeping a seal. If the fan is right up against the radiator there will be "dead" spots from the fan....


----------



## Ceadderman

A shroud is a box/standoff that allows a Rad fan, typically the Pusher, to back off the surface of the Radiator and concentrate more flow over the surface. And nullifying the fan's natural dead spot or making it less of an issue.

You can get them pre-made, or you can create one using a fan of the same form factor and gutting the mechanicals out to clear out room for airflow. I recommend the latter if you have a cheap enough fan laying around or a strong enough set to put together a Push/Pull system and gutting the stock fan. Always go with the stronger option as the Pusher. It keeps the weaker fans from working too hard.









~Ceadder


----------



## Blazing angel

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
A shroud is a box/standoff that allows a Rad fan, typically the Pusher, to back off the surface of the Radiator and concentrate more flow over the surface. And nullifying the fan's natural dead spot or making it less of an issue.

You can get them pre-made, or you can create one using a fan of the same form factor and gutting the mechanicals out to clear out room for airflow. I recommend the latter if you have a cheap enough fan laying around or a strong enough set to put together a Push/Pull system and gutting the stock fan. Always go with the stronger option as the Pusher. It keeps the weaker fans from working too hard.









~Ceadder









but is a shroud nessesary?
i was thinking of mounting the antec 300's back stock tri cool on a empt section on the side panel, mounting the h50's stock as a puller, and a scythe as a pusher. no shroud


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blazing angel* 
but is a shroud nessesary?
i was thinking of mounting the antec 300's back stock tri cool on a empt section on the side panel, mounting the h50's stock as a puller, and a scythe as a pusher. no shroud


Its not needed... it can help with temp and noise...


----------



## Blazing angel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Its not needed... it can help with temp and noise...


ok, what temps do you think ill get with a i3 530 @ 4ghz?


----------



## Magus2727

it really depends on alot of factors... case flow, ambient temp, what fans your using, what voltage your running you OC at, etc.

usually the best deal is find out what it hits when stress testing it vs your old cooling.


----------



## Muntey

So I have had my h50 in for a few days now and it still makes my room smell like burning plastic, is this a problem? I really don't like the smell, and it worries me that it might explode or something else just as spectacular.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Muntey* 
So I have had my h50 in for a few days now and it still makes my room smell like burning plastic, is this a problem? I really don't like the smell, and it worries me that it might explode or something else just as spectacular.

I have gone through a couple and have never smelt anything like that


----------



## Ceadderman

I never smelled plastic from mine.









Course my Sniffer ain't what it usta be. But I'm having a hard time reconciling what it could be. I mean there is no plastic on either surface CPU or H50. You might just shut her down for a bit unseat your pump clean it up and inspect it. Someone around here knows which two screws separate the housing from the pump so I'm pretty certain that if it comes to that you could check under the hood as it were.

Generally if you're smelling plastic it's generally something hooked up the wrong way. Something electrical.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
I never smelled plastic from mine.









Course my Sniffer ain't what it usta be. But I'm having a hard time reconciling what it could be. I mean there is no plastic on either surface CPU or H50. You might just shut her down for a bit unseat your pump clean it up and inspect it. Someone around here knows which two screws separate the housing from the pump so I'm pretty certain that if it comes to that you could check under the hood as it were.

Generally if you're smelling plastic it's generally something hooked up the wrong way. Something electrical.









~Ceadder









do not take it apart























Corsair will know then you dont have a leg to stand on.

Always better to call them first they might want it back. They will pay shipping.

There may be a problem with the circuitry shown here.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hmmm you're correct about taking it apart. However I was just referring to the logo cover. So long as the two screws aren't marred I don't see an issue of pulling and doing a sniff test. But that could be accomplished without removal I guess.









Yeah, no I wasn't suggesting to tear it down.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
do not take it apart























Corsair will know then you dont have a leg to stand on.

Always better to call them first they might want it back. They will pay shipping.

There may be a problem with the circuitry shown here.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Hmmm you're correct about taking it apart. However I was just referring to the logo cover. So long as the two screws aren't marred I don't see an issue of pulling and doing a sniff test. But that could be accomplished without removal I guess.









Yeah, no I wasn't suggesting to tear it down.









~Ceadder










That one tiny screw that is visible might have some loctite on it and they will know if it is tampered with.

IMPO Its just safer. Thats why when i suggested to you that you give John Kruse a call about the small twisting action in the pump lines ( I wish i did ) mine was deemed a loose fitting that urinated all over. And over $1500 later......

If i had to replace everything on my own in my little escapade i would be in prison


----------



## Ikthus

Argh late reply but thanks for the help on the shroud placement guys. I've got some free time this weekend so I'll try it first on the push fan then see if there's any difference with it on the pull fan.


----------



## bluedevil

Just took out my Custom loop and replaced it with a H50 in a push/pull config with HS Yate Loons. Looks pretty good in there!








My only question is, on stock speeds I idle ~40C each core, is this normal? I am using MX2 for my thermal compound btw.


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay mr. water cooling pro... j/k









...anyway what are your ambient temps?

I would say that an Idle of roughly ~40c is pretty reasonable for an Intel CPU but for all I know you're running 13-15c ambients in which case that would probably not be normal.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *bluedevil*


Just took out my Custom loop and replaced it with a H50 in a push/pull config with HS Yate Loons. Looks pretty good in there!







My only question is, on stock speeds I idle ~40C each core, is this normal? I am using MX2 for my thermal compound btw.


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

So I bought a Dremel yesterday, made two 25mm shrouds out of old fans and mounted them with my UK3000's. I can't even believe how much quieter they now, not to mention the airflow. Temps are down 7-10c as well, that just blew my mind. Why did I wait so long??


----------



## pm-roor

Can I be in the club?










anyway a quick question: I bought another fan snd it seems to be a bit stronger than the stock one. for a push/pull config should i put the stronger fan in the front or back?

thanks


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pm-roor*


Can I be in the club?

anyway a quick question: I bought another fan snd it seems to be a bit stronger than the stock one. for a push/pull config should i put the stronger fan in the front or back?

thanks


You add your self to the club it is an editable doc









The "stronger" fan should be the pusher fan, the one that is pushing air through the radiator.

If you need more screws they are 6/32 screws or you can use two in each fan.


----------



## ez12a

Hey guys, i had downclocked to 3.6 at 1.42V from 3.71, and now am back at 3.71 with 1.47V. I get around 58C max load in a room around 23C according to this digital thermometer i have..i'm not sure how accurate it is. Are these temps normal?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ez12a* 
Hey guys, i had downclocked to 3.6 at 1.42V from 3.71, and now am back at 3.71 with 1.47V. I get around 58C max load in a room around 23C according to this digital thermometer i have..i'm not sure how accurate it is. Are these temps normal?

They are a little high. Are you using shrouds? Also what TIM are you using? I had higher temps till my TIM(AS5) cured.


----------



## ez12a

yea i have a shroud on the push fan. The computer is kind of tucked into the corner so it might be creating a pocket of heat. I was OCCT Linpacking it for 2 hours without issue but the temps got to 58C.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bluedevil*


Just took out my Custom loop and replaced it with a H50 in a push/pull config with HS Yate Loons. Looks pretty good in there!







My only question is, on stock speeds I idle ~40C each core, is this normal? I am using MX2 for my thermal compound btw.


If it is that high you may want to LAP the Base Plate and reapply TIM


----------



## Blazing angel

ok, i have got a spare antec tri cool, which ill cut to use as a shroud. secondly, wou;d it be better to have 2 scythe gentle typhoons in push pull, or one scythe pushin and the stick h50 fan pullin (since that one wont really make a difference)


----------



## WTHbot

Pictures in coming of my new set up.

Be gentle and don't laugh at my set up please. xD


----------



## sesnut

on sale at tigerdirect for the weekend
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...j99CjC2vNCnDno
Current Price: $79.99 - $10MIR = $69.99
Price after $15 Coupon Code VON3571 = $54.99 + Free Shipping
Coupon Code expires on 7/12

another $7.80 off if you use bing cashback making it $47.19


----------



## Blazing angel

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sesnut* 
on sale at tigerdirect for the weekend
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...j99CjC2vNCnDno
Current Price: $79.99 - $10MIR = $69.99
Price after $15 Coupon Code VON3571 = $54.99 + Free Shipping
Coupon Code expires on 7/12

another $7.80 off if you use bing cashback making it $47.19


how to you enter the code









for free shipping i need 10$$ more on my price WHAT DO I GE EEEE


----------



## sesnut

its at the bottom left of the last step, where you enter in your address and credit card info under #4- review order


----------



## Blazing angel

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sesnut* 
its at the bottom left of the last step, where you enter in your address and credit card info

i need 10$$ more for free shipping in CANADA, damn. What would be usefull for 10-20$


----------



## sesnut

shrouds? :<

nvm they dont have any









extra fan is easily 10 bux


----------



## Blazing angel

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sesnut* 
shrouds? :<

nvm they dont have any









aa damn. think angel think


----------



## Blazing angel

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...IN#detailspecs

hm hows this fan look


----------



## sesnut

should be alright, the stock fan has about the same cfm but runs at 1700rpms


----------



## bluedevil

This is crazy......very bad temps......


----------



## looser101

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...ey=120mm%20fan


----------



## sesnut

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...ey=120mm%20fan


loud >.>

it actually gets worse if you put it against the h50 rad with no shroud; the sound of the air whooshing through the fins is pretty noticeable


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sesnut*


loud >.>

it actually gets worse if you put it against the h50 rad with no shroud; the sound of the air whooshing through the fins is pretty noticeable


Turn it down. Noise to suit your preference. Comes with speed control.


----------



## Blazing angel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Turn it down. Noise to suit your preference. Comes with speed control.










my antec 300 doesnt come with 3.5 bay









how loud is it though at full speed?

i bet i can find a hole to route the wire through, and just let it sit ontop.on the ground


----------



## sesnut

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Turn it down. Noise to suit your preference. Comes with speed control.


why buy a 2400 rpm fan then?

plus who knows how well it performs at less than max speed


----------



## looser101

Headroom. There if you need it.








YouTube- Silver Stone R121225BU


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sesnut*


why buy a 2400 rpm fan then?

plus who knows how well it performs at less than max speed


Fans perform worse as you turn them up to 100% this is what they call the "Law of Diminishing Returns." When you build or upgrade PC's you need to always have in mind that you will get diminishing returns after a certain point on everything. Not to mention the higher the RPM's the less air it's going to move per RPM and the more noise it will produce per RPM.


----------



## sesnut

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


Fans perform worse as you turn them up to 100% this is what they call the "Law of Diminishing Returns." When you build or upgrade PC's you need to always have in mind that you will get diminishing returns after a certain point on everything. Not to mention the higher the RPM's the less air it's going to move per RPM and the more noise it will produce per RPM.


while that may or may not be true, i only know how it performs at its rated specs, anything inbetween is guesswork unless i try it out for myself

oth if i bought a quieter fan that i could run at max speed, then i know what its specs would be


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sesnut*


while that may or may not be true, i only know how it performs at its rated specs, anything inbetween is guesswork unless i try it out for myself

oth if i bought a quieter fan that i could run at max speed, then i know what its specs would be


People do research on this stuff, that video that was posted was before he got his CFM meter to tell him how much he was pushing. But that guy has done alot for people like us and it would be a good thing if you did you own research into his and other findings.

Oh and Rated Spec's are usually Complete and utter bull****. Pardon my french but never trust the spec's on the same page that wants your to buy the item.


----------



## looser101

I would of suggested Gentle Typhoons but they don't sell them. The problem with being maxed is.. well...you are maxed.

I have no way of knowing his noise tolerance. Hence I suggested something he could adjust to his personal preference.


----------



## sesnut

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


People do research on this stuff, that video that was posted was before he got his CFM meter to tell him how much he was pushing. But that guy has done alot for people like us and it would be a good thing if you did you own research into his and other findings.

Oh and Rated Spec's are usually Complete and utter bull****. Pardon my french but never trust the spec's on the same page that wants your to buy the item.


your cynicism is amazing

research only goes so far and at that point, you either have to trust what some numbers say or blow wads of cash just to find out

if there were no specs, then i might as well be dumping money down the toilet


----------



## Blazing angel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


I would of suggested Gentle Typhoons but they don't sell them. The problem with being maxed is.. well...you are maxed.

I have no way of knowing his noise tolerance. Hence I suggested something he could adjust to his personal preference.


ok, thanks. final question: can i simply hook this fan up to a cpu header?








EEDIT: ok guys, there was a bit of misunderstnadings in the last few pages, now lets put them all behind us, and chill


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blazing angel*


ok, thanks. final question: can i simply hook this fan up to a cpu header?










Looks like:

Connector(s): 4-Pin Molex, 4-Pin Motherboard

I think you will be able to remove the control from that 3.5" plate and mount it elsewhere, as well.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sesnut*


your cynicism is amazing

research only goes so far and at that point, you either have to trust what some numbers say or blow wads of cash just to find out

if there were no specs, then i might as well be dumping money down the toilet


I'm the Cynic?
No I'm just sick of you complaining about the sound of your fans when you don't even have the proper case to achieve anywhere near silent.

You should have gone with the performance series Antec cause they are built for this! Or at least a Fractal Design R2, which is also designed for Silent computing, they negate stronger fans.

Have you picked up a dremel to cut out the honey comb on your fans? That causes major amounts of DB's, more so then the most fans.

And what I mean by research is actual specs, ones that are presented by an unbiased source, not the factory rated specs. And you are contradicting yourself. In one post you seem to hold true to factory specs and then in the next you miss-trust hard physical unbiased research. Don't you see how that train of thought is wrong?

Sorry for ranting but dude you gotta help yourself not just complain about all the help people give you.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Looks like:

Connector(s): 4-Pin Molex, 4-Pin Motherboard

I think you will be able to remove the control from that 3.5" plate and mount it elsewhere, as well.


I've never done it but if I remember correctly you can mount 4pin connectors on 3pin headers.


----------



## Blazing angel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


looks like:

Connector(s): 4-pin molex, 4-pin motherboard

i think you will be able to remove the control from that 3.5" plate and mount it elsewhere, as well.


:d:d:d:d:d


----------



## WTHbot

Anyway, change of subject.



















My kitty joined my computer on it's photoshoot haha



















Fit's nicely in my new gamma, which is better then not being able to close my side window like with my other case. I'm getting a little higher temps now but it's worth it for the Gamma's other features that my 5 year old no-name case lacked.

Sorry about the size I wasn't aware that it was shooting at the maximum and I should know by now that Megapixels = quality. . .


----------



## looser101

@WTHbot: Two words... front intake. Add a fan to the roof.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
@WTHbot: Two words... front intake. Add a fan to the roof.

Got one on the front, and an 80mm held up by zipties. Ghetto maybe but it really helps my HD 4850's temps.

I'm getting some Zigmatek fans for the top and the side pretty soon.For right now though I have it in a Pull<--Shroud< --Rad configuration till I get my new fans.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
Got one on the front, and an 80mm held up by zipties. Ghetto maybe but it really helps my HD 4850's temps.

I'm getting some Zigmatek fans for the top and the side pretty soon.For right now though I have it in a Pull<--Shroud< --Rad configuration till I get my new fans.

I meant install the H50 setup up front inside the 5.25" bays and draw cool air from the front. That 4850 dumping heat into the case can't be helping your temps.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
I meant install the H50 setup up front inside the 5.25" bays and draw cool air from the front. That 4850 dumping heat into the case can't be helping your temps.

It actually doesn't dump that much in, and most of the heat from it goes right out the back believe it or not. The majority of the air going to my H50 is from the 80mm I have in the 5 1/4 bays and the top honeycombs.

Trust me my 80mm on my HDD bay is pushing so much air you wouldn't believe it. That's why even without a double blower style cooler my air just goes right out the back.


----------



## Ceadderman

I've done it, it works just fine so long as nobody attempts to use a standard 4 pin Mole to power the sequence from their PSU. That would so not be good.









I plugged one fan into the MoBo header. Then I plugged another Mole into it's 4pin Mole and VIOLA we have power for both provided by the MoBo. Just remember to keep the fans to 3 or less. MoBo's eventually fail at that point if you start stacking more than it can handle. Since I don't know every MoBo, I choose to recommend no more than 3 fans in a daisy. I've seen as many as 6 as the recommended limit however.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
I've never done it but if I remember correctly you can mount 4pin connectors on 3pin headers.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


It actually doesn't dump that much in, and most of the heat from it goes right out the back believe it or not. The majority of the air going to my H50 is from the 80mm I have in the 5 1/4 bays and the top honeycombs.

Trust me my 80mm on my HDD bay is pushing so much air you wouldn't believe it. That's why even without a double blower style cooler my air just goes right out the back.


Oh ye of little faith. Sit it on top of your cd/dvd rom sucking in and check it out.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Oh ye of little faith. Sit it on top of your cd/dvd rom sucking in and check it out.


My DVD drive died last night, I think the little motor burned itself out. . .

I need to get a new one. . .


----------



## Muntey

@Everyone Re:My plastic smell issue:

It is not the pump/block giving off the smell. I had a little sniff around, and it is the air that was pulled through the Rad that had the smell. Even when I put the fan as push/exhaust the smell was produced.

Perhaps the Rad is getting to hot for the fan and causing some issues? It could also be the rad itself producing the smell-I'll stick the fan outside of the case as push intake and see if that helps (The fan will therefor not be touching the rad, ruling out the hot plastic idea).


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Muntey*


@Everyone Re:My plastic smell issue:

It is not the pump/block giving off the smell. I had a little sniff around, and it is the air that was pulled through the Rad that had the smell. Even when I put the fan as push/exhaust the smell was produced.

Perhaps the Rad is getting to hot for the fan and causing some issues? It could also be the rad itself producing the smell-I'll stick the fan outside of the case as push intake and see if that helps (The fan will therefor not be touching the rad, ruling out the hot plastic idea).


Your rad can't be that hot. . . .Can it?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


Your rad can't be that hot. . . .Can it?


Wouldn't think so either the CPU would fry way before it ever got that hot.


----------



## Muntey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


Your rad can't be that hot. . . .Can it?


It depend on the type of plastic they have used for the fan as to whether this is the case or not.


----------



## bluedevil

Ahhh much better. Did a reseat and all is back to the norm. 3.6ghz @ 33C on all cores at idle.







I am much happier.


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bluedevil*


Ahhh much better. Did a reseat and all is back to the norm. 3.6ghz @ 33C on all cores at idle.







I am much happier.










Glad to hear it!


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bluedevil*


Ahhh much better. Did a reseat and all is back to the norm. 3.6ghz @ 33C on all cores at idle.







I am much happier.










You probably weren't making very good contact I figure. Did you clean off you stock paste?


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


You probably weren't making very good contact I figure. Did you clean off you stock paste?


Yeah I took it off and cleaned off the MX2 I used, replaced with NT-H1, and reseated it with a little more force.







all is great. Gonna try for 4ghz tomorrow.







I think it will be fine.


----------



## Muntey

So I have moved the fan outside of the case and it is still producing the smell, but it is not as strong. The decrease in the smell is probably just due to the restricted airflow though.

I had a sniff of the rad when it was off and it seems like it had that smell, but I also smelt the fan and the plastic smells exactly like the smell I am experiencing. I am now going to try it with one of my CM stock fans and see how it fares.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Muntey* 
So I have moved the fan outside of the case and it is still producing the smell, but it is not as strong. The decrease in the smell is probably just due to the restricted airflow though.

I had a sniff of the rad when it was off and it seems like it had that smell, but I also smelt the fan and the plastic smells exactly like the smell I am experiencing. I am now going to try it with one of my CM stock fans and see how it fares.

Like I said your probably just not used to the new hardware smell. . .

I've got a New H50 and a new case with New fans, you bet my room smells a little bit like clean plastic.


----------



## Muntey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


Like I said your probably just not used to the new hardware smell. . .

I've got a New H50 and a new case with New fans, you bet my room smells a little bit like *clean* plastic.


Again, it does not smell of clean plastic! It literally smells like it is burning. You could say it is similar to the smell of burning solder.

I think I have solved my problem now though! I had another sniff of the fan and it is just as I have described. At the moment I have it swapped out for the stock CM back back and this time it smells of clean plastic, but it is very faint.








Now my room no longer reeks of burnt plastic; only farts!


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Muntey*


Again, it does not smell of clean plastic! It literally smells like it is burning. You could say it is similar to the smell of burning solder.

I think I have solved my problem now though! I had another sniff of the fan and it is just as I have described. At the moment I have it swapped out for the stock CM back back and this time it smells of clean plastic, but it is very faint.








Now my room no longer reeks of burnt plastic; only farts!










Hmm you should contact corsair, they might send you a fan. . .


----------



## Muntey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


Hmm you should contact corsair, they might send you a fan. . .


Maybe...

I'll just have a look on the support forums to see if any one else has gotten a replacement. If your mum starts yelling in panic when she walks into your room and smells it, you sure know something isn't smelling right...


----------



## Ceadderman

Unless Muntey somehow reversed Poles on the fan by plugging it in backward to the header. That'll cause a burnt plastic smell for sure.









Not sayin you did Muntey, but anything is possible.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Muntey*


Maybe...

I'll just have a look on the support forums to see if any one else has gotten a replacement. If your mum starts yelling in panic when she walks into your room and smells it, you sure know something isn't smelling right...


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Muntey*


Maybe...

I'll just have a look on the support forums to see if any one else has gotten a replacement. If your mum starts yelling in panic when she walks into your room and smells it, you sure know something isn't smelling right...


Corsair usually does replacements of things like this really quick. They don't generally make you show proof or send it back on their dime(cause they pay shipping.)


----------



## Muntey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Unless Muntey somehow reversed Poles on the fan by plugging it in backward to the header. That'll cause a burnt plastic smell for sure.









Not sayin you did Muntey, but anything is possible.









~Ceadder










It will only fit on the header in one direction...Also, have I not stated that the fan smells the same as the experienced smell, even when removed from the system?


----------



## Ceadderman

Relax Muntey. I wasn't saying that was the case. I've seen it happen though so I was poking fun at the people that HAVE done something like this. I know of one particular individual(nobody here) that actually bent his header pins out enough to make it work because he thought they were too tight to the guide and interfered with mounting his fan.

Needless to say his fan was junk afterward. I never did hear what happened with his MoBo. Probably baked that pretty good too.







lol

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Muntey*


It will only fit on the header in one direction...Also, have I not stated that the fan smells the same as the experienced smell, even when removed from the system?


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Relax Muntey. I wasn't saying that was the case. I've seen it happen though so I was poking fun at the people that HAVE done something like this. *I know of one particular individual*(nobody here) that actually bent his header pins out enough to make it work because he thought they were too tight to the guide and interfered with mounting his fan.

Needless to say his fan was junk afterward. I never did hear what happened with his MoBo. Probably baked that pretty good too.







lol

~Ceadder










LOL $10's says it was Ceadder!
jk man!


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


Hmm you should contact corsair, they might send you a fan. . .


They will







absolutely

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Unless Muntey somehow reversed Poles on the fan by plugging it in backward to the header. That'll cause a burnt plastic smell for sure.









Not sayin you did Muntey, but anything is possible.









~Ceadder










Even if he or someone did it will only change the polarity and make it spin in reverse.
*(I never tried this with 3pin and a motherboard)*

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


Corsair usually does replacements of things like this really quick. They don't generally make you show proof or send it back on their dime(cause they pay shipping.)


Go over and post in the Corsair forum on this matter if you haven't already and i'm certain Yellowbeard or Ramguy will awnser this for you fast and accurate


----------



## Ceadderman

Tweren't me.

In my younger and dumber days it coulda been though.







lol

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


LOL $10's says it was Ceadder!
jk man!


----------



## Muntey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
*(I never tried this with 3pin and a motherboard)*
:

It's a four pin one


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 







Tweren't me.

In my younger and dumber days it coulda been though.







lol

~Ceadder









I know how that goes. My last case is testament that when your younger you more the likely can't know any better!


----------



## Muntey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
Go over and post in the Corsair forum on this matter if you haven't already and i'm certain Yellowbeard or Ramguy will awnser this for you fast and accurate









DONE! Hopefully I get a response soon, although that might not happen due to the time differences (GMT+12)...


----------



## Ceadderman

Heh, I so resisted the urge to post...

Youz payz youz nicklez and youz takz youz chanzes.







lol

I belong to the Corsair site too, but I don't post much there. I did post about RAM tops cause I wanted them to offer stock tops in the standard colors but it got lost in the shuffle and I'm buying a set from bob808 which pretty well nullified my thought there.







lol

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Muntey* 
DONE! Hopefully I get a response soon, although that might not happen due to the time differences (GMT+12)...


----------



## WTHbot

Gotta love what you can do with just a few clicks in gimp.
xD


----------



## Muntey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
Gotta love what you can do with just a few clicks in gimp.
xD

That looks pretty good! I may have to find a camera and have a go!


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Muntey* 
That looks pretty good! I may have to find a camera and have a go!

That picture came out nice considering how cheap my camera is now. I think this one can be had for like $30 or something.


----------



## Ceadderman

Are you running 1 and 2 slot RAM?







.

Take a look at your Manual. It says that you should be running 1 and 3 or 2 and 4.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


Gotta love what you can do with just a few clicks in gimp.
xD


----------



## Nakattk

I am running some test to see what my temps are stock before I overclock anything. This is my first time overclocking and I want to get a feel for temp ranges before I get in too deep. I am using the H50 with 2 Scythe Gt 1450's with shouds. The rest of my rig is in my sig. I am running prime95 mixed for an hour now and my max temp using Real Temp is 62C my room temp is 23c. Does this sound normal on stock clocks? Anyone know what the temp range should be for a 3.8ghz overclock with similar settings? I can post a pic of my setup if needed.


----------



## PC_GAMER

ok i have a question about this cooler. If i attached the heatsink of the H50 to a 120mm case fan at the back of the computer case (antec 900) and the air were blowing outside the case, if i attached the corsair 120mm fan to the otherside of the heatsink to blow air through the heatsink and out of the case, that would be a push pull config and all the air would be blowing out of the case right? Well my question is....."If the case fan span slower than the corsair 120mm fan, would that cause cooling issues?


----------



## Magus2727

If either push or pull fan is not working together then they are not working optimally.

Will it still help... Yes, having 1 fan push and 1 fan pull helps. if your moving Huge amounts of air (High CFM) through the radiator then 1 being slower may start to be noticeable. But

You generally want the "Stronger" fan to be the push fan, because its the one doing all the "Work" the pull fan is just helping the push fan.


----------



## PC_GAMER

And the push fan is the one blowing the heatsink?

ok that sounds a little odd but you get what i mean.


----------



## pm-roor

push/pull set up complete


----------



## PC_GAMER

What temps should i see idle and full load with a i7 stock and the h50 push/pull config?


----------



## Magus2727

Depends on your case air flow, how hot your graphics card it. I have an AMD so cant help on the i7... but I would think idle around 25-30*C and load 50-60*C...

did you have a previous cooler? what was the temps on that and are they better now with the H50?

Using the picture above pm-roor posted... the Right fan is the Pushing fan and the left fan (between the case and Radiator) is the pulling fan...

Go here to fill out your system info... http://www.overclock.net/specs.php


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PC_GAMER*


What temps should i see idle and full load with a i7 stock and the h50 push/pull config?


On top of what Magus said above you also need to include your ambient temps.

The cooler can only cool at the lowest to your ambient. If your ambient is 22C(~72F) it would be drastically different compared an ambient of 38C(~100F).


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Are you running 1 and 2 slot RAM?







.

Take a look at your Manual. It says that you should be running 1 and 3 or 2 and 4.









~Ceadder










Haha you'd think that but Noob MSI made it so that it was 1&2 ad 3&4 on this board. It shocked me but it's what the manual said. . .


----------



## PC_GAMER

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


On top of what Magus said above you also need to include your ambient temps.

The cooler can only cool at the lowest to your ambient. If your ambient is 22C(~72F) it would be drastically different compared an ambient of 38C(~100F).


Well in general? Because i don't know my ambiant temps. Just take a guess based on the latest weather at your end.


----------



## Ceadderman

Have a Thermostat in the house? The best way to tell what the ambient is when you have no thermometer handy is to dial your thermostat til you hear that telltale click indicating that your kicking on the heat. Just look at it as you dial it up.

Like right now it's 78-79F in the house today. You won't get an exact reference point but it's alot closer than guesstimating on the weatherman's say so.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *PC_GAMER*


Well in general? Because i don't know my ambiant temps. Just take a guess based on the latest weather at your end.


----------



## PCSarge

so....did anyone miss me?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
so....did anyone miss me?

I missed you


----------



## PCSarge

sigh well... my 600w psu blew in the last electrical storm, so im back to my 450w, which supports everything but my dvd drive...cables are too short other than that, i had to bring my designated folding rig down, this was the psu from it, so ill drop down in the ranks for a bit till i fix it


----------



## Ceadderman

Naw, didn't even notice you were gone.







lol

Glad you got a handle on your issues. Wanna stop by an help me with mine.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


so....did anyone miss me?


----------



## PC_GAMER

Thanks for the information.


----------



## SinX7

Hey guys, I'm looking to buy a H50 to cool down my i5. I want to do push/pull set up but i don't know how. (Sorry im new to this).

Idk if this is a good fan to keep the rig cool under load. Also will it fit without any mod?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185058

Any suggestion/advice/help/etc. is welcome.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SinX7*


Hey guys, I'm looking to buy a H50 to cool down my i5. I want to do push/pull set up but i don't know how. (Sorry im new to this).

Idk if this is a good fan to keep the rig cool under load. Also will it fit without any mod?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185058

Any suggestion/advice/help/etc. is welcome.


Those will be okay but I'd go with these if you can afford it.

The Gentle Typhoons are the idle fans for the H50


----------



## SinX7

Will the fan fit without any moding to it?


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SinX7*


Will the fan fit without any moding to it?


Should it's a standard 120mm by 25mm fan.

Just use 2 long screws for the pull fan and the other two for the push fan. You don't really need 4 screws for each.


----------



## Ceadderman

If sound level is not an issue I think that Yate Loons are better.

I have them and they work great. But if sound level is a consideration then the GTs' are decent enough.









~Ceadder


----------



## SinX7

Well i just want a fan that is not too loud but its still pushes enough air to keep the temp low as much as possible.


----------



## Ceadderman

Then go with the GTs' they're rated at under 29dB whereas my Yates are rated at 38dB.

Nothing wrong with either one. Mine actually aren't that loud anymore since my MoBo controls the RPM levels. But uncontrolled these things sound like they're gearing up for takeoff at the local airport.









They keep my system a chilly 31c @ 72F ambient temp. I can't wait to see what happens with our generally brisk 60F temps. 60F is perfectly acceptable ambient for me. I hate anything under that.









~Ceadder


----------



## wungreingam

so much fuss about a fan,get a coolermaster fan . . . it's enuf


----------



## WTHbot

Yate Mediums are great fans, and they are pretty cheap too. Gt's are made to be quieter but still be high performing.


----------



## Ceadderman

$4 for a Yate Loon fan. Which I know to be an excellent buy due to my experience with them.

How much for the CM fans @ newegg?

Nothing wrong with them but I know a guy from one of my other clubs that is now running A LOT of Yate Loons in his 932 that he got for a reasonable price.

A lot more reasonable than any CM fan.









If price is no issue then by all means spend what you want on what you want. But in this economy, price is more of an issue than it used to be.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *wungreingam* 
so much fuss about a fan,get a coolermaster fan . . . it's enuf


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Then go with the GTs' they're rated at under 29dB whereas my Yates are rated at 38dB.

Nothing wrong with either one. Mine actually aren't that loud anymore since my MoBo controls the RPM levels. But uncontrolled these things sound like they're gearing up for takeoff at the local airport.









They keep my system a chilly 31c @ 72F ambient temp. I can't wait to see what happens with our generally brisk 60F temps. 60F is perfectly acceptable ambient for me. I hate anything under that.









~Ceadder









I am using the GT's linked above because just like Ceddar mentioned they are quiet. My idle temps are 1-2c above my ambient which makes it normally 23-24c. I also have 2 shrouds and have it mounted in my front drive bays too so that helps quite a bit.

I see you are are using an intel CPU that runs a lot hotter than AMD chips that I an Ceddar are using so even when you get your H50 going you shouldn't judge your temps vs ours.


----------



## Blazing angel

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
Those will be okay but I'd go with these if you can afford it.

The Gentle Typhoons are the idle fans for the H50

1 typon in push and one stock h50 fan in pull or 2 gentle typoon's?


----------



## Ceadderman

get two Typhoons and gut the Corsair fan for shroud.









If you need suggestions on how to affix the shroud and 1 more fan just ask.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blazing angel* 
1 typon in push and one stock h50 fan in pull or 2 gentle typoon's?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Naw, didn't even notice you were gone.







lol

Glad you got a handle on your issues. Wanna stop by an help me with mine.









~Ceadder









lol ceadder, only if its pc issues
















and as it goes my little H50 is holding its own... ive literally tortured it lately (heat wise that is) cause my A/C isnt being repaired till tommorow its been 30C+ in the house over a week
under full load my cpu only hit 61C after 4 hrs, so i cant complain, it does its job


----------



## Ceadderman

What other issues...

?







O I C WUT YOU DUZ

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
lol ceadder, only if its pc issues


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
What other issues...

?







O I C WUT YOU DUZ

~Ceadder









what did you do to your pc now boy


----------



## Ceadderman

Lol stupid driver update keeps hanging at the desktop...

Actually I don't think that it's the driver at all since I've dl'ed and installed 10.4 - 10.6 w/o issue on XP and also used the install disc to load it on 7.

Every reboot it hangs the system. Can't do anything after that.

Though the last time I rebooted in Safe Mode and it went quietly.









I've done everything but go back to my original BIOS.

I'm doubting that it's my GPU but well never know now do we.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
what did you do to your pc now boy


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Lol stupid driver update keeps hanging at the desktop...

Actually I don't think that it's the driver at all since I've dl'ed and installed 10.4 - 10.6 w/o issue on XP and also used the install disc to load it on 7.

Every reboot it hangs the system. Can't do anything after that.

Though the last time I rebooted in Safe Mode and it went quietly.









I've done everything but go back to my original BIOS.

I'm doubting that it's my GPU but well never know now do we.









~Ceadder









my card is pretty well the same as yours, just its XXX instead of an XT, and i havent had any problems, im running 7 64 bit pro...hmmm..im running the latest catalyst (i think its at 10.7 or 10.8 now, not sure)....your card might be biting it, the slot its in might be, or the 10.6 driver doesnt like windows 7..or... if your installing an xp version of the driver thats the problem
download the vista version


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah, nope Win 7 64bit offerings every one of them. It could be my slot. Haven't tried to lower the GPU to the 3rd slot. I'll try that before changing my BIOS version.

Vista version is 7 version so we're back to square one there.

And if 10.4 - 10.6 hangs my system I can't imagine a newer version would solve this as I did have 10.5 working with 7 for a short bit albeit VERY short bit.

So I guess I'ma log off for a bit and try moving the GPU to my 3rd slot and see what happens there. Thanks for the idea on that.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


my card is pretty well the same as yours, just its XXX instead of an XT, and i havent had any problems, im running 7 64 bit pro...hmmm..im running the latest catalyst (i think its at 10.7 or 10.8 now, not sure)....your card might be biting it, the slot its in might be, or the 10.6 driver doesnt like windows 7..or... if your installing an xp version of the driver thats the problem
download the vista version


----------



## WTHbot

10.6 doesn't like any operating system, do yourself a favor and install 10.5.


----------



## Ceadderman

Pretty sure said I installed 10.4 through 10.6 and all hung on reboot.
















All good, I'm just plum wore out from 3 days of trying to get it sorted out. Actually it's been longer but the last 3 days have been straight days. I've not gotten much sleep over this.









~Ceadder









Kay logging off now, gotta swap slots...









Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


10.6 doesn't like any operating system, do yourself a favor and install 10.5.


----------



## Sethy666

As good as the Ultra Kaze 2000s are in push/pull, I must admit the noise is starting to get to me.

I thought I might try some Noiseblocker 120mm fans and see how they go. I should have them within the week, so Ill let you know how they go.

Quote:



http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=14414


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*











Pretty sure said I installed 10.4 through 10.6 and all hung on reboot.
















All good, I'm just plum wore out from 3 days of trying to get it sorted out. Actually it's been longer but the last 3 days have been straight days. I've not gotten much sleep over this.









~Ceadder









Kay logging off now, gotta swap slots...










if the slot swap doesnt work, you need to find a version newer than 10.6 to install.. i swear there is one


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*











Pretty sure said I installed 10.4 through 10.6 and all hung on reboot.
















All good, I'm just plum wore out from 3 days of trying to get it sorted out. Actually it's been longer but the last 3 days have been straight days. I've not gotten much sleep over this.









~Ceadder









Kay logging off now, gotta swap slots...










Aww that terrible. I just know I couldn't use 10.5 but all the other drivers have worked till now.


----------



## Blazing angel

NOOOOO PROBLEM.

the moboi wish to combine with the h50 (when i get it) doesnt seem to have 4 holes. 2 of them seem blocked.... (for the water block mount)
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/ImageGa...%20Motherboard

on the otherhand...how ould it accomadate the stock heatsinks?


----------



## Blazing angel

problem # 2:

if i mount the radiator with 2 shrouds and 2 fans, wouldn't it put excess stress on the screws connected to the case?

example
case-screws-puller-shroud-rad-shroud-pusher?


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blazing angel*


problem # 2:

if i mount the radiator with 2 shrouds and 2 fans, wouldn't it put excess stress on the screws connected to the case?

example
case-screws-puller-shroud-rad-shroud-pusher?


youre case can handle it and so can the screws.
those holes shouldnt be blocked when you get the board. i think that its just the stand newegg uses that makes them looked blocked


----------



## Ceadderman

I did the swap, haven't updated the driver yet. But one thing struck me as I was performing the swap.

I didn't have the HDMI cable hooked up previously and had it hooked up throughout this whole exercise in futility.

Might that be my issue?









Anyone running both DVI and HDMI from their GPU to their Monitor? I'ma so kick myself if that's been the issue all along.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


if the slot swap doesnt work, you need to find a version newer than 10.6 to install.. i swear there is one


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I did the swap, haven't updated the driver yet. But one thing struck me as I was performing the swap.

I didn't have the HDMI cable hooked up previously and had it hooked up throughout this whole exercise in futility.

Might that be my issue?









Anyone running both DVI and HDMI from their GPU to their Monitor? I'ma so kick myself if that's been the issue all along.









~Ceadder










only connect one or the other, otherwise it tries to send 2 signals to your monitor, which is impossible, and probably causes the lock up


----------



## Demented

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


10.6 doesn't like any operating system, do yourself a favor and install 10.5.


Catalyst 10.6's working here flawlessly on Win 7 x64.

EDIT:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I did the swap, haven't updated the driver yet. But one thing struck me as I was performing the swap.

I didn't have the HDMI cable hooked up previously and had it hooked up throughout this whole exercise in futility.

Might that be my issue?









*Anyone running both DVI and HDMI from their GPU to their Monitor? I'ma so kick myself if that's been the issue all along.







*

~Ceadder










I am doing that with 24" on the DVI and my 42" HDTV on HDMI. I have no problems, though when I did do a new install of drivers, I disconnect the HDMI, and make sure all is working fine with just the 24" before adding a second display. You could try that.

Uninstall current ATi drivers.
Reboot into safe mode and use driver cleaner to eradicate anything ATi.
Shut down and disconnect HDMI from the card.
Start it up, install drivers.
If all works fine then, add the secondary display.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demented*


Catalyst 10.6's working here flawlessly on Win 7 x64.


Did you see the10.6 thread when it was first released?

Talk about horror stories, mine made driver sweeper impossible to use so i had to uninstall through the set up of 10.6. That driver brought some really strange things out, hopefully 10.7 or the hotfix will, make it useable for most people.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
Did you see the10.6 thread when it was first released?

Talk about horror stories, mine made driver sweeper impossible to use so i had to uninstall through the set up of 10.6. That driver brought some really strange things out, hopefully 10.7 or the hotfix will, make it useable for most people.

Oddly enough, when I first installed them when they came out, I had soime issues with them, but a few days ago decided to install them again and haven't had any problems.


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay then BRB, gotta run to the ATi site and see if I can't find one of the new Drivers Sarge was referring to.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ceadderman

And I'm back up and running. Stupid HDMI cable.







Oh the degradation the I've been put through over something so F'N simple.









Still don't like Win 7 but I can put up with it now.

Now I just got to get my stupid XP drive to reformat so I can put together my RAID system.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Okay then BRB, gotta run to the ATi site and see if I can't find one of the new Drivers Sarge was referring to.









~Ceadder


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
And I'm back up and running. Stupid HDMI cable.







Oh the degradation the I've been put through over something so F'N simple.









Still don't like Win 7 but I can put up with it now.

Now I just got to get my stupid XP drive to reformat so I can put together my RAID system.









~Ceadder









So it's. . .fixed?


----------



## Blazing angel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OutOfBalanceOX*


youre case can handle it and so can the screws.
those holes shouldnt be blocked when you get the board. i think that its just the stand newegg uses that makes them looked blocked


wait which /screws should i use? the ones that came with my case (stock fan- antec 300) or the ones that come with the h50?


----------



## Ceadderman

@WTHbot... Yup it's fixed. Finally got to play my Call of Pripyat game. Not to shabby in 1920x1080









The ones that came with the H50. To do push/pull you can use 2 per side. To do Push/Pull with a shroud you need those + 4 bolts of 6-32 threadpitch long enough to mount both shroud and fan. I got 3" bolts and a bag of nuts. I used two per bolt and then locked them into place with 1 then tightened the other to that nut to lock it down. Works great. In order to be able to fit my drive in the bay directly under my Puller I had to lop off the remaining bolt. Drive just clears the bolts.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blazing angel*


wait which /screws should i use? the ones that came with my case (stock fan- antec 300) or the ones that come with the h50?


----------



## Blazing angel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


@WTHbot... Yup it's fixed. Finally got to play my Call of Pripyat game. Not to shabby in 1920x1080









The ones that came with the H50. To do push/pull you can use 2 per side. To do Push/Pull with a shroud you need those + 4 bolts of 6-32 threadpitch long enough to mount both shroud and fan. I got 3" bolts and a bag of nuts. I used two per bolt and then locked them into place with 1 then tightened the other to that nut to lock it down. Works great. In order to be able to fit my drive in the bay directly under my Puller I had to lop off the remaining bolt. Drive just clears the bolts.









~Ceadder










can you post pictures


----------



## pm-roor

quick question. i installed my push/pull system but know my gt 240 temps have gone up by 30 F. used to idle around 88-100F but its hitting 135 but i increased the fan to 85% and know its hitting around 115. does windows media player use this much video??? or is it the push/pull system?


----------



## Demented

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pm-roor*


quick question. i installed my push/pull system but know my gt 240 temps have gone up by 30 F. used to idle around 88-100F but its hitting 135 but i increased the fan to 85% and know its hitting around 115. does windows media player use this much video??? or is it the push/pull system?


Is it intake or exhaust? If it's intake, that is probably the reason for the increase in temps. Pulling cool air in from the outside is good for the H50's rad, but not so great for case temps. I don't know much about your case. What's the air flow design of it. In other words, how many fans do you have pulling air in, and how many pulling air out? And what are the positions of said fans?


----------



## pm-roor

yea its as an intake but it hasnt been that high with just a pull config. seems like it was mostly due to windows media player. dman makes it as hot as when i play l4d2!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pm-roor*


yea its as an intake but it hasnt been that high with just a pull config. seems like it was mostly due to windows media player. dman makes it as hot as when i play l4d2!


Just make sure the fans are in the right direction. I did a silly thing once and had both fans blowing towards the rad... I didnt check the arrows.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Just make sure the fans are in the right direction. I did a silly thing once and had both fans blowing towards the rad... I didnt check the arrows.


That's not that bad of a mistake, I installed windows with my pump off







Guess the extension I was using for the pump header was not clipped in right and since I didn't touch the rig I never suspected that. I thought my temp sensor had taken a crap.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pm-roor*


yea its as an intake but it hasnt been that high with just a pull config. seems like it was mostly due to windows media player. dman makes it as hot as when i play l4d2!


What are you watching on windows media player?

What are your temps with Media Player classic or VLC?

I just want to see if it's the content or the program itself.


----------



## Germanian

can someone in here with a 1055t post some temperatures with 1.5v cpu voltage and 1.3v CPU-NB around 4000 mhz plz.

i am running atm at 1.35v with 3510 mhz
my max temps are around 55c when prime95 on blend for over 10 minutes

i tried 1.5v with 4004 mhz but temps seemed a lil high at over 60c

i was really hoping the h50 would make me get 4ghz easy


----------



## Ceadderman

I can do better than pictures.
















YouTube- One step closer...
Pardon the Bird. She was hearing herself from an earlier vid I did and was annoyed when "it" stopped talking. As she didn't have anyone to talk to other than her cellmate.









Anyway you'll see how I have mine set up. If yours is not ceiling mounted, no worries. You can still do the same thing just remember not to overtighten the bolts as you can strike a vane and squish it, possibly poking a hole in your Rad. That would suck.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blazing angel* 
can you post pictures


----------



## pm-roor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
What are you watching on windows media player?

What are your temps with Media Player classic or VLC?

I just want to see if it's the content or the program itself.

watching maybe like 2-3 hours of boondocks @ 640X368 on the one that comes with windows 7

but yea all fans point towards an intake system and my side fan is and exhaust fan which is directly next to my card.


----------



## Ceadderman

It's the Pron Mate, it's the Pron.









j/k









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *pm-roor* 
quick question. ...does windows media player use this much video??? ...


----------



## Demented

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pm-roor* 
watching maybe like 2-3 hours of boondocks @ 640X368 on the one that comes with windows 7

but yea all fans point towards an intake system and my side fan is and exhaust fan which is directly next to my card.

You might need to rethink how your fans are working in your rig. Perhaps switch another around to have better exhaust since you are dumping all of the heat from the H50 into your case now.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah, this is what I'm thinking. Sometimes the balance gets offset and negates the cooling benefits of this system.

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demented*


You might need to rethink how your fans are working in your rig. Perhaps switch another around to have better exhaust since you are dumping all of the heat from the H50 into your case now.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I can do better than pictures.









YouTube- One step closer...

~Ceadder










It was like a shakier blair witch with a better actor and a computer in it







Need to work on the camera skillz.

Computer looks good you have done a lot to it lately.


----------



## Ceadderman

lol yeah my Webcam doesn't make it easy to capture video unless I mount it to a tripod. But the Tripod won't fit between my desk and my system.









Thanks for noticing though. It's getting there slowly but surely. I'm finally reformatting my XP drive so I can shortstroke it for RAID.









Tomorrow I'm going to pull one toggle bolt at a time from my PS/P unit and give them all another squirt of Satin Black. When I get those back in I get to reformat a 320Gig drive so I can back up my Win 7 drive, so I'll hopefully have it RAID'ed properly by Tuesday. Man reformatting 1 TB drives the proper way takes forever. But I want it done right so I don't ever Quick Format a Drive.

I think that I'll pull one of my Opticals out and disassemble that and prep and paint that too. Not sure yet.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


It was like a shakier blair witch with a better actor and a computer in it







Need to work on the camera skillz.

Computer looks good you have done a lot to it lately.


----------



## PC_GAMER

Do you guya have air coming into the case from the back in order to keep the heatsink cool or air blowing through the heatsink and out of the case? Corsair tell you to do the first option. Do you agree with them or not?


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PC_GAMER* 
Do you guya have air coming into the case from the back in order to keep the heatsink cool or air blowing through the heatsink and out of the case? Corsair tell you to do the first option. Do you agree with them or not?

From what I have noticed it's about 1-2c difference between the too. Do which ever you you can. Make sure if you do do an intake that you have a way to exhaust or at least enough open holes that it exhausts normally.


----------



## TheGovnah

Currently I am water-cooling 2 GTX 480s and an i7 930 OCed to 4.0GHz on one loop and getting the following temps on the CPU:

Idle 40-45c
Load 60-65

So my question, if I pull the CPU of the loop and attach a H50 in a push-pull configuration could I improve on the temps significantly?

Thanks


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheGovnah*


Currently I am water-cooling 2 GTX 480s and an i7 930 OCed to 4.0GHz on one loop and getting the following temps on the CPU:

Idle 40-45c
Load 60-65

So my question, if I pull the CPU of the loop and attach a H50 in a push-pull configuration could I improve on the temps significantly?

Thanks


No, its unlikely as those are already good temps.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheGovnah*


Currently I am water-cooling 2 GTX 480s and an i7 930 OCed to 4.0GHz on one loop and getting the following temps on the CPU:

Idle 40-45c
Load 60-65

So my question, if I pull the CPU of the loop and attach a H50 in a push-pull configuration could I improve on the temps significantly?

Thanks


I would really need to see some specs first.

Edit: The Corsair H50 will not be much better.


----------



## TheGovnah

Didn't realize those were good/acceptable temps....thought they were marginal. I guess a Core i7 OCed run hotter than their AMD counter part.

Thanks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


No, its unlikely as those are already good temps.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PC_GAMER* 
Do you guya have air coming into the case from the back in order to keep the heatsink cool or air blowing through the heatsink and out of the case? Corsair tell you to do the first option. Do you agree with them or not?

Without your case listed and knowing your setup there is no way to to tell you which way is the best setup for you.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheGovnah* 
Didn't realize those were good/acceptable temps....thought they were marginal. I guess a Core i7 OCed run hotter than their AMD counter part.

Thanks

Intel temps are safer at higher temperatures.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheGovnah* 
Currently I am water-cooling 2 GTX 480s and an i7 930 OCed to 4.0GHz on one loop and getting the following temps on the CPU:

Idle 40-45c
Load 60-65

So my question, if I pull the CPU of the loop and attach a H50 in a push-pull configuration could I improve on the temps significantly?

Thanks

That is most likely with out the 480's under load also? are you running Furmark and intel burn test at max at the same time? I bet you will run hotter then that. but I dont know what you WC loop is. Usualy a 240 radiator is needed for each 480 along with a 240 for an i7 OC at that speed.

Folding is a very good stress testing program that will stress your CPU and GPU's see below link... that will tell you how well you system cools after you get them running.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
Intel temps are safer at higher temperatures.

Yea Intel is goo up to 92*c or something like that (google to make sure)

and AMD is good up to 64*C for the Phenom II....


----------



## snippits

Hey everybody!

I am considering buying the Corsair H50. I am using the stock cooler for the time being that came with my AMD 955 BE C3.

Just wanted to ask a question about AMD mounting. I do know that the latest H50 kits come with AMD backplate. But my AM2+ socket motherboard already has a metal backplate. The question is can I just use the metal AMD motherboard backplate that is already installed on my motherboard instead of the plastic backplate that comes with the H50 kit?

Using the original metal backplate I won't have to uninstall my motherboard which will simplify installation. Not sure if the metal backplate will fall off or not when I uninstall the AM2+ retention bracket. Hopefully it's glued on!

Anyway, any tips on AMD installation are most welcome. Thanks!


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *snippits*


Hey everybody!

I am considering buying the Corsair H50. I am using the stock cooler for the time being that came with my AMD 955 BE C3.

Just wanted to ask a question about AMD mounting. I do know that the latest H50 kits come with AMD backplate. But my AM2+ socket motherboard already has a metal backplate. The question is can I just use the metal AMD motherboard backplate that is already installed on my motherboard instead of the plastic backplate that comes with the H50 kit?

Using the original metal backplate I won't have to uninstall my motherboard which will simplify installation. Not sure if the metal backplate will fall off or not when I uninstall the AM2+ retention bracket. Hopefully it's glued on!

Anyway, any tips on AMD installation are most welcome. Thanks!


nope youll have to remove the original bracket


----------



## Magus2727

I belive you need the back plate that comes with the H50 since it has some unique spacers and other pices of hardware that work together. Its not very difficult to remove the MB (guess depends on case and set up) but I was able to get my H50 installed in under an hour...


----------



## ThaJoker

with ambiants of 20c is 37c idle good for 4Ghz???


----------



## Ceadderman

Don't use the included mounting tape, get 1/8th inch mounting tape. And use the Intel inserts. Insert the screws all the way through them until they free spin before mounting.

After you do this everything is easy peasy.









I'm currently OC'ed to 965 BE specs on 9-9-9-24 timings and running 31c.










My apologies for the off rendered Vid. I've got to get my paint.net program back onboard I'm afraid.









~Ceadder


----------



## WTHbot

Wait we were supposed to use tape?

I just put in the backplate on then screwed the retention bracket down andmounted the block. After that I screwed it down nice and snug. Not tape was needed. Ceader are you still having problems with that?? Cause that tape might be the reason.


----------



## Blazing angel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


Wait we were supposed to use tape?

I just put in the backplate on then screwed the retention bracket down andmounted the block. After that I screwed it down nice and snug. Not tape was needed. Ceader are you still having problems with that?? Cause that tape might be the reason.


tape? inserts? im confuesed. EXPLAIN PLSSSS


----------



## digital_steve

There's double-sided tape on the pads of the backplate to attach it to the motherboard


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope no problems I fixed them by not using the plastic AM3 lockring inserts and using thinner tape. After that I had absolutely zero issues mounting the unit to the CPU in the prescribed manner. Not 100% as prescribed but "good enough for Bayshore", as my Gramps would say.









Tape wasn't the reason. Thought it was but found out that those plastic inserts are slightly too short to do as directed.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


Wait we were supposed to use tape?

I just put in the backplate on then screwed the retention bracket down andmounted the block. After that I screwed it down nice and snug. Not tape was needed. Ceader are you still having problems with that?? Cause that tape might be the reason.


----------



## RonB94GT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blazing angel* 
tape? inserts? im confuesed. EXPLAIN PLSSSS









http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUxoF...ayer_embedded#!


----------



## Bodycount

Oh no








Another one bites the dust







This is very unfortunate I see a re-design in the near future.
That stock cooler is taunting me

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showpost...9&postcount=27


----------



## AverageGai

How do I go about cleaning the radiator? Can someone just walk me through a few of the things you guys do to keep it nice and clean?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AverageGai* 
How do I go about cleaning the radiator? Can someone just walk me through a few of the things you guys do to keep it nice and clean?

I haven't had to really clean mine yet, but I figure when I do, I'll just dismantle the push/pull system I have on it, and vacuum/blow air through it. I can't see it being much more difficult than that.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AverageGai*


How do I go about cleaning the radiator? Can someone just walk me through a few of the things you guys do to keep it nice and clean?


You mean cleaning as in dusting it, or flushing it?


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AverageGai*


How do I go about cleaning the radiator? Can someone just walk me through a few of the things you guys do to keep it nice and clean?


Use a small very soft paint brush and lightly brush at the dust and it will ball up. The fins are very fragile dont use any pressure


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Use a small very soft paint brush and lightly brush at the dust and it will ball up. The fins are very fragile dont use any pressure










I use a toothbrush, just gently rub it and it all balls up and the fins are A ok. It's been a while, but I still do this with coolers and stuff. Always works great.


----------



## WTHbot

His motherboard is bleeding. . .


----------



## WorldExclusive

I just got the Corsair H50 and I mounted it as intake on my 800D. It's 5C hotter than the MegaShadow I had before. This is keeping me from reaching 4.2GHz safely since temps are going above 80C.

*Would I get better results if I mount it as exhaust????? *


----------



## Demented

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WorldExclusive*


I just got the Corsair H50 and I mounted it as intake on my 800D. It's 5C hotter than the MegaShadow I had before. This is keeping me from reaching 4.2GHz safely since temps are going above 80C.

*Would I get better results if I mount it as exhaust????? *


Doubtful as this would be pulling warmer air from INSIDE your case over the rad. Intake allows the OUTSIDE your case air to be pulled through the rad, making your case temps a bit higher though.


----------



## Ceadderman

That's a tampon for the PCI slot.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


His motherboard is bleeding. . .


----------



## SinX7

Well my H50 suppose to be here tmrw. (Newegg.com Tracking.) Will post some pics!


----------



## AdvanSuper

Link to a lapping kit for the H50?


----------



## pm-roor

my h50 with push/pull system put to its stable prime95 limits.


----------



## AdvanSuper

LMAO @ text message.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Link to a lapping kit for the H50?


Just go out and buy

800 grit
1000 grit
1500 grit
2000 grit
Sandpaper and get to working on it.

Lapping doesn't need a kit just some cheapy sandpaper.

Pianters tape would be good to to hold your sand paper in place.


----------



## Muntey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pm-roor*


my h50 with push/pull system put to its stable prime95 limits.



























So is your friend going to raped in a bathroom stall?


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


Just go out and buy

800 grit
1000 grit
1500 grit
2000 grit
Sandpaper and get to working on it.

Lapping doesn't need a kit just some cheapy sandpaper.

Pianters tape would be good to to hold your sand paper in place.


Link to tutorial? H50 lapping in search doesn't show much. Or just break down on when to use which grit?


----------



## Ceadderman

Won't find one. You're best bet is to head to your local auto parts or autopaint supply store and pick up some 1k thru 2k grit paper and perform the task with as little twist at the pump as you can get away with.









Just remember that when your pump skips once, to rotate the entire unit one quarter turn or less and continue. The pump will want to lean into the glide and you don't want that to happen since it will be counter to what you are trying to achieve. To get as flat a surface as you can get.

I used

2 of 1k
2 of 1200
1 of 1500
1 of 2k

There really is no set way to do this or amount of paper used either.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Link to a lapping kit for the H50?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Link to tutorial? H50 lapping in search doesn't show much. Or just break down on when to use which grit?

It is pretty self explanatory start with the coarsest grit(800) and work up to the finest grit(2000). Make sure you work on a flat surface suggest a piece of glass myself.


----------



## WTHbot

YouTube- CPU Lapping Guide (Part 1 of 2)
Really good guide that applies to the H50 just if you want to see it done.


----------



## Wingzero

What are the potential gains of lapping a h50 and the CPU beneath it ?


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


His motherboard is bleeding. . . 


What is wrong with you guys?









That responding post was in my thread my damage 2 months ago. the permalink i posted was another H50 leaking taking out a AMD system posted within my Corsair thread 07/09/10









The Hindenburg comes to mind.

I really feel for the dude. Its worst than pulling teeth dealing with that.
my two H50's are for sale. One is sealed BNIB. I think i've had enough fun with it.

PM if interested


----------



## Muntey

Why is my pump making a really loud buzzing/rattling sound? Earlier I tried unplugging it for a second and then replugging it, which stopped the sound. But now after having the system off for an hour, it is making the same sound.


----------



## Ceadderman

Could be some air got into the loop? There was a guy a while back that posted a vid where his H50 had a loud buzzing sound. It reminded me of an air filtration system pump. I had him tap a pencil on the left tube a few times while it was running to clear it. Maybe this is what's going on with yours.









Can't hurt to at least try it and see if that clears it up.









[email protected] Sorry bro, I understand the lack of humor when part failures incur. Just pick yourself up dust off and keep on keepin on. It wasn't meant at your expense. Tryin ta laugh with you not at you. Had I realized that it was your H50, I probably wouldn't have even made a peep about it.

But you gotta admit "Tampon for the PCI slot" was pretty funny. Even if it were only mildly so.

I hope this last H50 didn't have the same issue as the one previously. That would REALLY suck.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Muntey*


Why is my pump making a really loud buzzing/rattling sound? Earlier I tried unplugging it for a second and then replugging it, which stopped the sound. But now after having the system off for an hour, it is making the same sound.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Could be some air got into the loop? There was a guy a while back that posted a vid where his H50 had a loud buzzing sound. It reminded me of an air filtration system pump. I had him tap a pencil on the left tube a few times while it was running to clear it. Maybe this is what's going on with yours.









Can't hurt to at least try it and see if that clears it up.









[email protected] Sorry bro, I understand the lack of humor when part failures incur. Just pick yourself up dust off and keep on keepin on. It wasn't meant at your expense. Tryin ta laugh with you not at you. Had I realized that it was your H50, I probably wouldn't have even made a peep about it.

But you gotta admit "Tampon for the PCI slot" was pretty funny. Even if it were only mildly so.

I hope this last H50 didn't have the same issue as the one previously. That would REALLY suck.









~Ceadder

























You hittin up the sauce tonight? *I fail to see the humor in someones H50 leaking and taking out a system whether its mine or anyones*. I dont know where that came from.

Muntey's question...
1st off air can't be introduced into the system w/o disassembly. But there may be a trapped air bubble cycling through the system so manipulation of the rad and some tapping can and wiill re-locate the air pocket Your correct there for sure









*This is not my H50 thats old news*. This is a new case. Somebody just quoted one of my pics in there instead of reading and focusing on the new post.


----------



## Ceadderman

Oh okay, didn't realize you were in a new Case already. Hope things look up for you in this instance.








All good. We H50 guys gotta stick together whenever possible.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


















1st off air can't be introduced into the system w/o disassembly. But there may be a trapped air bubble cycling through the system so manipulation of the rad and some tapping can and wiill re-locate the air pocket Your correct there for sure









*This is not my H50 thats old news*. This is a new case. Somebody just quoted one of my pics in there instead of reading and focusing on the new post.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Oh okay, didn't realize you were in a new Case already. Hope things look up for you in this instance.








All good. We H50 guys gotta stick together whenever possible.









~Ceadder










OMG Nvm


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wingzero*


What are the potential gains of lapping a h50 and the CPU beneath it ?


The aim of lapping is to try and make the contact surface as flat as possible. if done correctly, the surface contact area is increased thus increasing heat transfer... ergo increasing cooling efficiency of the cooler.

Lapping the cooler contact plate is common and relatively easy. Personally, I would get nervous at the thought of lapping the CPU though it is possible with great care.


----------



## Magus2727

Lapping the H50 I think would be a good idea, there have been some reports and those on this forum that have had more then 1 H50 on identical machines and have found that the surface of the H50 is not consistant and lapping of the H50 fixed the problem.

Not sure if it voids the H50 warranty though? it DOES void the CPU warranty if done on the CPU.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Lapping the H50 I think would be a good idea, there have been some reports and those on this forum that have had more then 1 H50 on identical machines and have found that the surface of the H50 is not consistant and lapping of the H50 fixed the problem.

_*Not sure if it voids the H50 warranty though?*_ it DOES void the CPU warranty if done on the CPU.



......just to help out & clarify = you can checkout the 2nd post, which is stated from the Corsair Rep., in this Corsair Forum . . . 
. . .  >> click HERE 2 go 2 read & C <<  . . . .







. . . . .









mr-Charles . . .









.


----------



## SinX7

Well my H50 just got here. I gotta say, newegg was fast! I ordered yesterday and it got here in one day! (Except my AD700 for some reason ) But the packaging looks smexy









Ill probably install it when my PSU and GPU gets here, so i dont have to keep opening the case









pics!


----------



## sendblink23

well guys... I'm saying bye to the club.. Made the change to the Noctua NH-D14

The H50 is now closed secured in its box.... as back up for my next build.... so..... _*"I'll be back"*_









last pic with the H50:


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SinX7*


Well my H50 just got here. I gotta say, newegg was fast! I ordered yesterday and it got here in one day! (*Except my AD700 for some reason* ) But the packaging looks smexy









Ill probably install it when my PSU and GPU gets here, so i dont have to keep opening the case









pics!










mighta shipped from a location further from you

but its a beautiful cooler and it comes in sexy packaging

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


well guys... I'm saying bye to the club.. Made the change to the Noctua NH-D14


Traitor


----------



## SinX7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OutOfBalanceOX*


mighta shipped from a location further from you

but its a beautiful cooler and it comes in sexy packaging


It probably did, the AD700 wont get here till the 15th, order the 3 day shipping same time as the H50 and fan. I love the box for the H50, its sooo smexy xD


----------



## WTHbot

Have you installed it yet?


----------



## SinX7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


Have you installed it yet?


Im still deciding if i should install it now or wait till tomorrow to install it the same time with my GPU and PSU


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OutOfBalanceOX*


Traitor


=P

only thing that sucks.. this damn cooler is HUGE as F%^&, the h50 was a pretty clean look









hahaha ignore my ugly paint job....  I'll improve it soon


----------



## Ceadderman

What's stopping you? Hop to it man!









j/K









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *SinX7*


Im still deciding if i should install it now or wait till tomorrow to install it the same time with my GPU and PSU


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


=P

only thing that sucks.. this damn cooler is HUGE as F%^&, the h50 was a pretty clean look


thats actually the only reason that i switched from the monsoon III LT


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


well guys... I'm saying bye to the club.. Made the change to the Noctua NH-D14

The H50 is now closed secured in its box.... as back up for my next build.... so..... _*"I'll be back"*_









last pic with the H50:










Are temps better with the NH-D14?


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OutOfBalanceOX*


thats actually the only reason that i switched from the monsoon III LT


wow.... I remember that one, its been a while since I've seen it
Eitherway mine cools much better compared to my H50 at around a 6c drop.... and that is still entirely at stock the noctua... if i did the same as we all do to our H50's... changing the fans (on this case triple fans) & thermal paste.. pretty certain it will go much lower.

that sure makes me more of a traitor


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Are temps better with the NH-D14?


Yes very indeed, for me the Noctua at stock(stock fans & stock paste) it was already a 6c drop on max load @ 3.9ghz compared to my H50 CMR4's exhaust: Fan>Shroud>Rad>Fan

but anyways I should stop talking about this its an H50 thread and I should not change the thread subject


----------



## Reptar

Some douche deleted the entire list of members...


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


Yes very indeed, for me the Noctua at stock(stock fans & stock paste) it was already a 6c drop on max load @ 3.9ghz compared to my H50 CMR4's exhaust: Fan>Shroud>Rad>Fan

but anyways I should stop talking about this its an H50 thread and I should not change the thread subject


Gotcha, I can understand that no worries







Thanks for the info.


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


wow.... I remember that one, its been a while since I've seen it
Eitherway mine cools much better compared to my H50 at around a 6c drop.... and that is still entirely at stock the noctua... if i did the same as we all do to our H50's... changing the fans (on this case triple fans) & thermal paste.. pretty certain it will go much lower.

that sure makes me more of a traitor


yeah, i didnt care about temps i just hated having 2lbs of heatsink hanging off my mobo. and it wasnt nearly as gorgeous


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Reptar*


Some douche deleted the entire list of members...


Yay!
Ugh.


----------



## Ceadderman

w.t.h?!!!









That shouldn't have happened.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reptar* 
Some douche deleted the entire list of members...


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

its cuz there wasnt a form to add yourself. we actually could edit the entire spreadsheet


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reptar* 
Some douche deleted the entire list of members...

nahhhh huhhhhhhh OMG what a F^**ing basterddddddddddd

it was definitely an H50 hater.. probably from the water cooling... that is my assumption


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
nahhhh huhhhhhhh OMG what a F^**ing basterddddddddddd

it was definitely an H50 hater.. probably from the water cooling... that is my assumption

Nah it's probably some random. I believe even guests could edit it. . .


----------



## Reptar

Does Google Docs have some sort of backup system?


----------



## WTHbot

I'd imagine it should, I pressed report but didn't find anything omn the subject though.


----------



## PC_GAMER

Just installed the H50. So far idle temps are 30c and it's the summer. Not tested full load. Just built the rig. Still testing stuff.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope. Not that I'm aware of but I guess if you're heading there to add yourself again you could check. If I would have been thinking clearly I would have done that when I went into it to re-add myself.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reptar* 
Does Google Docs have some sort of backup system?


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PC_GAMER* 
Just installed the H50. So far idle temps are 30c and it's the summer. Not tested full load. Just built the rig. Still testing stuff.

30c is very normal.

Are we going to see picks anytime soon?


----------



## PC_GAMER

Normal? Hey i felt special when it said 30c lol. Yep pictures soon when i get my digital camera back


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PC_GAMER*


Normal? Hey i felt special when it said 30c lol. Yep pictures soon when i get my digital camera back










During the summer and 20-24c ambients is means anything lower then 30 is getting close to ambients. I recently called a youtuber out on it today when he claimed to have 23c and 24 idle temps(which doesn't happen without sub ambient cooling.)


----------



## Reptar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PC_GAMER*


Normal? Hey i felt special when it said 30c lol. Yep pictures soon when i get my digital camera back










What is your CPU?


----------



## alayoubi

*Hello

after a while of installing my H50 i have assured of the dead spots where the air does not go through the Rad , a picture of the Rad from push fan side :

http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/6775/dsc01659s.jpg

So i made a shroud from an old fan & these are the pics :

http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/5084/dsc01665ml.jpg
http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/2424/dsc01666x.jpg
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/9510/dsc01669m.jpg

Had minus 3 c in temperature for CPU , do you think these 3 c from cleaning the Rad or making shroud or both ?*


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alayoubi*


*Hello

after a while of installing my H50 i have assured of the dead spots where the air does not go through the Rad , a picture of the push fan :

http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/6775/dsc01659s.jpg

So i made a shroud from an old fan & these are the pics :

http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/5084/dsc01665ml.jpg
http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/2424/dsc01666x.jpg
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/9510/dsc01669m.jpg

Had minus 3 c in temperature for CPU , do you think the these 3 c from cleaning the Rad or the shroud or both ?*


More so for cleaning the rad.


----------



## PC_GAMER

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Reptar*


What is your CPU?


i7 920 D0


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


More so for cleaning the rad.


definitely this, Air could barely get through all that dust


----------



## Ceadderman

An ant would choke on that dust before he could make a hive of your Rad Mate.









~Ceadder


----------



## Imrac

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reptar* 
Does Google Docs have some sort of backup system?

Yes, I reverted it back to before the change.

EDIT:
Also when Office gets done installing, I will remove all the numbers in front of peoples names to make it look nice and pretty. I can't wait for google docs to change the find and replace in spreadsheets to allow regular expressions like they did with the word processor.

EDIT 2:
OK List should be all neat and tidy!


----------



## PC_GAMER

Are these temps normal with the H50?

i7 920 D0 1.3vcore (In Bios)
3.6GHz

Full load Prime 95 66c

I am using stock fan and the air is set to blow through the heatsink and out the back of the case. Another fan to pull the air out of the case is also attached to the other side of the heatsink. The pump is at 1400rpm in the bios. The fan is on full spin. The actual cooler is installed really tightly and it's impossible to turn or move it. Looks solid. Also my chip runs cool with stock volts but as soon as i increase voltage core it really bumps up the temps.


----------



## Chicken Patty

@PC GAMER

Seems about right bro. You have it in push and pull correct?


----------



## bubbachuck

Just installed the H50 yesterday. I'm considering getting 2 of the Ultra Kaze 3k's or one of the Slipstream models from Newegg (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...CE&PageSize=50) for P/P and was wondering if anyone had any advice as I've heard that static pressure is important but not well documented for case fans.

I've seen the H50 vs Megahalem thread but the fact that the Ultra Kaze's were run at 100% is kind of a scary thought (45 dBA!). I suppose if it comes down to it, I'd go with performance over noise (at least the Sniper comes with a handy knob fan controller) or else I'd use the cheapo CM Value Pak 19dB/44CFM fans (are those any good for static pressure?).


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bubbachuck*


Just installed the H50 yesterday. I'm considering getting 2 of the Ultra Kaze 3k's or one of the Slipstream models from Newegg (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...CE&PageSize=50) for P/P and was wondering if anyone had any advice as I've heard that static pressure is important but not well documented for case fans.

I've seen the H50 vs Megahalem thread but the fact that the Ultra Kaze's were run at 100% is kind of a scary thought (45 dBA!). I suppose if it comes down to it, I'd go with performance over noise (at least the Sniper comes with a handy knob fan controller) or else I'd use the cheapo CM Value Pak 19dB/44CFM fans (are those any good for static pressure?).


slipstreams have very little static pressure. i would go ultra kaze


----------



## PC_GAMER

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


@PC GAMER

Seems about right bro. You have it in push and pull correct?


Yes Mate. But am using stock Fan and a case fan for push/pull.

oh btw sorry for changing the thread subject but i really need to ask,

My chip can only do 3.6GHz and it needs 1.26v to achieve that. If i do to 3.7 or higher, the rig cuts out and fails to post no matter what vcore i try. What voltages in the motherboard could i try setting to help me past this little wall ive hit?

My motherboard is the GIGABYTE GA-X58A-UD3R.
CPU is the i7 920 D0.
Memory 3x2GB DDR3 1333MHz OCZ
Corsair H50 Cooler
(That's all you need to know lol)

All my motherboard voltages are on auto exept vocre so what could i try increaseing?

I am at the current config.
21x172=3.61GHz
Vcore 1.28 In Bios. 1.26 In Windows.
Every other voltage in the motherboard set to Auto (Because i don't know what needs increasing)

Thank you very much


----------



## Chicken Patty

@Bubba

Slipstreams flow great for case fans but not behind a rad or a cooler, kazes or gentle Typhoons are great!

@PCGAMER
bro I would really appreciate it if you can either fill out a BIOS template for your board or just post all of your settings. PM me so we can keep this thread on topic


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PC_GAMER*


Yes Mate. But am using stock Fan and a case fan for push/pull.

oh btw sorry for changing the thread subject but i really need to ask,

My chip can only do 3.6GHz and it needs 1.26v to achieve that. If i do to 3.7 or higher, the rig cuts out and fails to post no matter what vcore i try. What voltages in the motherboard could i try setting to help me past this little wall ive hit?

My motherboard is the GIGABYTE GA-X58A-UD3R.
CPU is the i7 920 D0.
Memory 3x2GB DDR3 1333MHz OCZ
Corsair H50 Cooler
(That's all you need to know lol)

All my motherboard voltages are on auto exept vocre so what could i try increaseing?

I am at the current config.
21x172=3.61GHz
Vcore 1.28 In Bios. 1.26 In Windows.
Every other voltage in the motherboard set to Auto (Because i don't know what needs increasing)

Thank you very much


Vtt is on auto

So it is either too high or too low. *BUT* It must be within 0.5v of the dimm or damage to cpu can occur
Make a thread


----------



## Trademark

hi guys 
anyone here have a link for H-50 Push and Pull howto/guide i wanna add fans on my h-50 im tired of failing OC to 3.8-4.0Ghz darn Intel burn test keep on failing on my 3rd run...


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trademark*


hi guys 
anyone here have a link for H-50 Push and Pull howto/guide i wanna add fans on my h-50 im tired of failing OC to 3.8-4.0Ghz darn Intel burn test keep on failing on my 3rd run...


How to guide?

What are you having a problem with?
Just attach both fans so they blow the same direction








Are you in need of a Oc'ing guide?
http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ed-guides.html


----------



## Trademark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


How to guide?

What are you having a problem with?
Just attach both fans so they blow the same direction








Are you in need of a Oc'ing guide?
http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ed-guides.html


yes man i tried that guide but my temp is just way too high. failed on every intel burn test but when i tried occt and everest it pass.. but everytime i do IBT it failed.. during standard testing..


----------



## bubbachuck

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OutOfBalanceOX*


slipstreams have very little static pressure. i would go ultra kaze



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


@Bubba

Slipstreams flow great for case fans but not behind a rad or a cooler, kazes or gentle Typhoons are great!


thanks for the advices.

I just saw this (attached) comparison of static pressure on the official Scythe forum. Good lord on the bar for the Ultra Kaze 3k!

I'm thinking about the low noise Gentle Typhoons as well for P/P as I've heard good things about their static pressure. However, the ones I'm considering (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-091-_-Product) are rated at 85 m^3/h which converts to 50 cfm. That's the same as the stock Corsairs, which I'm assuming have decent static pressure. Is it worth going for the Gentle Typhoons?


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trademark*


yes man i tried that guide but my temp is just way too high. failed on every intel burn test but when i tried occt and everest it pass.. but everytime i do IBT it failed.. during standard testing..


Ok, make a thread in (intel cpus) for overclock help









EDIT:
I see that you did 17hours ago


----------



## AdvanSuper

Any place have this cheaper? Shipping is a whole $7 from Fry's =/

http://www.frys.com/product/6274350


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Any place have this cheaper? Shipping is a whole $7 from Fry's =/

http://www.frys.com/product/6274350


nvm opps
I made the mistake of assuming


----------



## Chicken Patty

@bubba

The thing with the mazes is the noise. But being a 38mm instead of 25mm it acts as a shroud too! If you don't mind the noise get them.

PS, you can always get a fan controller to quite them down


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


@bubba

The thing with the mazes is the noise. *But being a 38mm instead of 25mm it acts as a shroud too!* If you don't mind the noise get them.

PS, you can always get a fan controller to quite them down










no it doesnt, a shroud puts distance between the fan and the radiator to eliminate dead spots. 38mm fans have deadspots just like 25mm fans....


----------



## PC_GAMER

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Vtt is on auto

So it is either too high or too low. *BUT* It must be within 0.5v of the dimm or damage to cpu can occur
Make a thread










What is VTT? What is DIMM? Will it tell me my DIMM voltage in the bios? Ive created threads on this, nobody posts on them and they tell me to go for 4GHz and stuff like that rather than helping me get to those speeds.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Not actual shrouds but does eliminate dead spots a bit. Of course not like actual shrouds.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PC_GAMER*


What is VTT? What is DIMM? Will it tell me my DIMM voltage in the bios? Ive created threads on this, nobody posts on them and they tell me to go for 4GHz and stuff like that rather than helping me get to those speeds.


VTT = (voltage termination) DIMM=Ram sticks
some motherboards refer to vtt differently (Asus,Gigabyte,etc
Make a new thread or link me to your previous thread and i will try to help


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


nvm opps
I made the mistake of assuming










lol what did I miss


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Not actual shrouds but does eliminate dead spots a bit. Of course not like actual shrouds.


not really, most 38mm fans have widerfan motors, making for larger deadspots


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


lol what did I miss










Oh nothing man, Thought you were looking for a deal on a BNIB H50








I just jumped the gun


----------



## PC_GAMER

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


VTT = (voltage termination) DIMM=Ram sticks
some motherboards refer to vtt differently (Asus,Gigabyte,etc
Make a new thread or link me to your previous thread and i will try to help










Well some guy told me a setting to change. Now i booted at 4Ghz and testing now. Looking very stable atm. All cores running perfect so far.


----------



## Chicken Patty

@outofbalance

Perhaps, I've read otherwise. Not big deal bro, I'll have to do some more research on that. Just curious now really.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Oh nothing man, Thought you were looking for a deal on a BNIB H50








I just jumped the gun


Hahaha nope just looking for a place to get Shin-Etsu for cheaper lol.


----------



## TweakerNoob

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
1st off air can't be introduced into the system w/o disassembly.

If a H50 can leak...air CAN be introduced into the system w/o disassembly. In other words, if liquid can get out, air can get in.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TweakerNoob* 
If a H50 can leak...air CAN be introduced into the system w/o disassembly. In other words, if liquid can get out, air can get in.

If the polar icecaps melt I will have beachfront property. However unlikely it can happen and yes it has happened to a few H50 but the likely hood of it happening are slim when you take into account all that have been sold.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TweakerNoob* 
If a H50 can leak...air CAN be introduced into the system w/o disassembly. In other words, if liquid can get out, air can get in.

Whats your point? Being that you quoted me. You pulled one line out of a conversation








If it were to leak. Air being introduced into the system should be your last concern







By then its over.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
If the polar icecaps melt I will have beachfront property. However unlikely it can happen and yes it has happened to a few H50 but the likely hood of it happening are slim when you take into account all that have been sold.

Its a mass manufactured product. A machine making a machine with moving parts. So yes it does and will happen some sooner than others. Its doesn't really matter what the ratio is. Some may come of the line defective does anyone here actually think they test each one? Who knows how it happens it could be lint,dust,raw materials, a machines calibration off just enough god only knows.

There was another just the other day killing a system. Posted in the Corsair forum.

If users want to look at it like it deserves a golden pedistal with a nice red velvet pillow
Then thats nice























I for one dont hate the company nor the product but i do take it for what it is
and dont have an ounce of denial.


----------



## imh073p

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 

I for one dont hate the company nor the product but i do take it for what it is
and dont have an ounce of denial.









Here here, well said!


----------



## Ceadderman

Only place I've found it, is performance-pcs. I need to order some more too. After all the seats and reseats I've had to do this month I'm running low. I have 20grams of Ceramique, but it's not the same.









I did go to their site and if I had the money to invest I would just buy a couple cans of the stuff with the syringes and sell them here. Of course I would have to offer a larger amount than what you can get anywhere else though.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Hahaha nope just looking for a place to get Shin-Etsu for cheaper lol.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Figured you would say them and I forgot to check them out. Definitely a lot cheaper as well and only 3.73 for shipping. I might order the Yate Loon 120mm fans and test them on the H50 any others that should be considered?

I also need screws long enough to go from Fan-Shroud-Rad.


----------



## Enigma8750

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


you can add me




























I have always admired this computer.. Such a good clean fine job.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well if you're ordering TIM from them go with the Shin-Etsu G751. It's like for like compared to the stock TIM on the H50 and slightly better than the X23 I'm using.

Fanwise I would try anything your wallet can afford and you feel good about buying. I think the Gentle Typhoons are pretty decent if you're looking for a non LED unit. If you want LED then the new Enermax have gotten decent enough reviews. Primarily cause you can create your own lightshow inside your case with them. Not sure how well they function other than the adjustable LED feature.

Then of course you have your Uber loud Ultra Kaze fans and the Antec Tri-cools. Not forgetting my Yate Loons which come in every flavor and which Corsair uses. I'm pretty certain that the H50 fan is a Yate Loon. Not 100% of course. For that I would need traffic signs pointing the way.







lol

THe G751 only comes in half gram tube at the moment. Which is enough for a couple applications of course. Soon as I make my order that's probably what I'll get over the X23 which is serviceable since it's within the top 10 ranked TIMs'.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Figured you would say them and I forgot to check them out. Definitely a lot cheaper as well and only 3.73 for shipping. I might order the Yate Loon 120mm fans and test them on the H50 any others that should be considered?

I also need screws long enough to go from Fan-Shroud-Rad.


----------



## AdvanSuper

I am getting the G751 just wondering if I should test other fans. I've even undervolted my proc @ stock speeds and it was still idling at 44c... This thing just runs hot and my ambient's were 70-75F. I just want something that is gonna push the air through the rad efficiently and I don't think I can deal with another Ultra Kaze lol. I'm also going to be lapping the H50 I think. I know we have different procs, but how are you temps after lapping and with the Yate Loons?

I will be going i7 soon so hopefully it won't run that hot.


----------



## AdvanSuper

I ordered the Yate Loons everything else was too pricey IMO for fans and I ordered two tubes of Shin-Etsu.


----------



## Chicken Patty

@ sexybastard

That's one clean rig bro


----------



## Ceadderman

Which ones did you order? I have the High Speed Series which are pretty good.

But I do run a shroud between my Pusher and the Rad.

When my system is running I'm hovering between 32 - 34c @ Idle depending on the Ambient. Though two days ago I was up to 36c but it was nearly 80F so I think I was pretty close to running Ambients +/- as couple of degrees. I can't give you a specific ambient because I have to rely on the thermostat to tell me what ambients are and theres no graded indicators in these apartments.









But I think that you'll like whichever ones you got. They really are very good for the price.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


I ordered the Yate Loons everything else was too pricey IMO for fans and I ordered two tubes of Shin-Etsu.


----------



## Ice-Man

Hi everyone! quick question? will a swiftech mcp655 pump have enough flow for 2x quad rads?


----------



## Ceadderman

This is the Corsair H50 club.

You want the Watercooling club. That's down the hall to your right.









Wait is my sarcasm meter on the fritz again?









I can never tell this being a written forum an all.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ice-Man*


Hi everyone! quick question? will a swiftech mcp655 pump have enough flow for 2x quad rads?


----------



## WTHbot

YouTube- Drunkhungrybear Double KFC Drive-Thru 7-6-10


----------



## Ceadderman

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


YouTube- Drunkhungrybear Double KFC Drive-Thru 7-6-10


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*











~Ceadder










Oh your not in on the joke?


----------



## PCSarge

*runs around in circles* im modding a senod H50 to take a vid card block and a 240 rad...lets see of the pump can do it


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


*runs around in circles* im modding a senod H50 to take a vid card block and a 240 rad...lets see of the pump can do it


Seen plenty do it. Not sure if the best pump for the job but hey, good luck







Take lots of pics


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Seen plenty do it. Not sure if the best pump for the job but hey, good luck







Take lots of pics










You've seen the H50 used as a VGA block?


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


You've seen the H50 used as a VGA block?


I've seen it as well.... go back many pages you will see someone that did it.


----------



## KooolaNL

count me in aswell

pics will come when i find them


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KooolaNL*


count me in aswell

pics will come when i find them


I think you meant when you take them.. unless you had taken them & apparently they got lost somewhere lol


----------



## Ceadderman

I can't see nuffin w/o my seein eye Cacapu.

I'm actually modding my case using the force as my eyes.









~Ceadder


----------



## WTHbot

I think I'm gonna hook my vacuum to my rad.

I must contemplate the best course of action to achievethis.

Probably just going to use ducting though.


----------



## PC_GAMER

yay good news, 4ghz with my i7 and the H50!


----------



## Unlucky_7

Just got my H50 and have the fan configured as an exhaust - Overclocked my 930 to 4.2Ghz and it idles at around 42oC and full load 76oC









I'm looking to get another fan for a push-pull configuration, is there anywhere I can buy another fan which as the same as the supplied one, or does anyone have any recommendations?

Oh and it must have sleeved cables.


----------



## PC_GAMER

I have push/pull config.

Got the i7 920 at 4GHz with 68c full load and 1.23vcore







I might push for 4.2Ghz like unlucky 7.


----------



## Unlucky_7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PC_GAMER*


I have push/pull config.

Got the i7 920 at 4GHz with 68c full load and 1.23vcore







I might push for 4.2Ghz like unlucky 7.


1.23 v core is pretty good, is that with HTT on?

Which fans did you go for?


----------



## Nikkeli

Is this hard to mount properly, my Q9550 @ 4ghz is running around 45-50c on idle, and up to 80c on load and when this happens it crashes either because it's so hot (doubt it) or because my northbridge is so hot (when i touch it, it almost causes me burns), first, I've no noob at this but I dont enjoy taking my computer apart many times just to check is my cpu cooler seated correctly, so is it common it's badly seated so it has bad contact and cpu runs hot? I've not come to this problem with my other coolers so im asking this specifically about this cooler (first water cooler to me).

Secondly, what would be best thing to do for my NB, it sure has heatsink but it's not nearly enough, and no fan to attach anywhere near it, any suggestions?

I've got p5q pro and cm storm scout as my case, 140mm noctua fan (not sure which) (120mm mount size) and some other 120mm noctua on other side of the radiator helping the bigger fan do it's job.
Also it's not near any major components that generate heat.


----------



## PC_GAMER

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Unlucky_7* 
1.23 v core is pretty good, is that with HTT on?

Which fans did you go for?

Yes that is with HT. For 68c, i used the stock fan and a 120mm blue led antec case fan for push pull. Did the trick! I can run 4GHz on 1.2v with HT on. I tested it for 4 Hour but i just added a bit more vcore to be safe and did a 12hour test.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
You've seen the H50 used as a VGA block?

Yessir, can't recall where, I've just randomly came across it. But it's been done.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Yessir, can't recall where, I've just randomly came across it. But it's been done.

It was posted in here a few pages back.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Here is the link

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post9745768

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post9746497


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Which ones did you order? I have the High Speed Series which are pretty good.

But I do run a shroud between my Pusher and the Rad.

When my system is running I'm hovering between 32 - 34c @ Idle depending on the Ambient. Though two days ago I was up to 36c but it was nearly 80F so I think I was pretty close to running Ambients +/- as couple of degrees. I can't give you a specific ambient because I have to rely on the thermostat to tell me what ambients are and theres no graded indicators in these apartments.









But I think that you'll like whichever ones you got. They really are very good for the price.









~Ceadder









Yup I ordered the high speed fans. My shroud is Pull-Shroud-Rad-Push, not sure how efficient that is but I couldn't fit all three inside the case so pull fan is outside and shroud-rad-push are inside.


----------



## Nikkeli

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Nikkeli* 
Is this hard to mount properly, my Q9550 @ 4ghz is running around 45-50c on idle, and up to 80c on load bla bla bla /to shorten post/

Problem solved, I think, pump wasnt on lol, after re applying thermal paste and re-mounting I felt my case shaking, which it didnt do before, though im sure i had connected the 3 pin power cable on the cpu fan slot.. weird but now it works, kind of.

It's still hot, around 45c on idle, and load its 70, sure it's 1.36v or so, and this isn't anywhere near the best water cooler but i'm still bit confused, if temps should be so high, any other with q9550, or other 775 quad.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Yup I ordered the high speed fans. My shroud is Pull-Shroud-Rad-Push, not sure how efficient that is but I couldn't fit all three inside the case so pull fan is outside and shroud-rad-push are inside.

You should switch the shroud to the side with the push fan not the side that has the pull fan it is more efficient that way.


----------



## Trademark

hi guys I just added addional fan on my H-50 trying to do the Push and Pull configuration I'm using the stock fan from my case and corsair stock fan.. till i get my order of two Scythe Gentle Typhoons..
was wondering if anyone here can help me out right now my setting is <-Fan|Radiator|<-Fan is that the correct setting
or was it Fan ->|Radiator|Fan->??
so intake->-radiator-->exhaust ?
or exhaust>radiator->intake?


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trademark* 
hi guys I just added addional fan on my H-50 trying to do the Push and Pull configuration I'm using the stock fan from my case and corsair stock fan.. till i get my order of two Scythe Gentle Typhoons..
was wondering if anyone here can help me out right now my setting is <-Fan|Radiator|<-Fan is that the correct setting
or was it Fan ->|Radiator|Fan->??
so intake->-radiator-->exhaust ?
or exhaust>raditor->intake?










you are fine with your current setup


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fssbzz* 
you are fine with your current setup

ok bud thx alot just wanna make sure i'm doing it right.


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trademark* 
ok bud thx alot just wanna make sure i'm doing it right.

np...
i always prefer to draw air out from the case(like your setup)..
so your fan will not draw the hot air produce from the GPU exhaust to the radiator..


----------



## Dazsinister

Hey there just got my h50 installed in push/pull and loving it. Got my q6600 to 3.20 ghz with awesome temps. Gonna see if i can knock it to 3.6 or so


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fssbzz* 
np...
i always prefer to draw air out from the case(like your setup)..
so your fan will not draw the hot air produce from the GPU exhaust to the radiator..









make sense darn gtx 480 so hot even with 2 side panel 120mm fans lol
anyway right now my temp idle =23 to 30 celsius
but then again its not overclock i'm going to oc my cpu again and see whats my idle temp.. my stock(case) fan kinda sux though.. doesnt seem to work right... i didnt gain anything from stock/h50 push and pull doesnt seems to work right since my 120mm fans from my case kinda sux i cant wait to get my new 2 fans...


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trademark* 
make sense darn gtx 480 so hot even with 2 side panel 120mm fans lol
anyway right now my temp idle =23 to 30 celsius
but then again its not overclock i'm going to oc my cpu again and see whats my idle temp.. my stock(case) fan kinda sux though.. doesnt seem to work right... i didnt gain anything from stock/h50 push and pull doesnt seems to work right since my 120mm fans from my case kinda sux i cant wait to get my new 2 fans...

Newegg had *ultra kaze 3000 for $9.99 + free shipping*
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...&Tpk=ultrakaze
but it will be a little loud. but if you are using Headphone for gaming..i don't mind getting those beast fan.
+ a shroud btw the fan and the radiator will be perfect for h50.


----------



## Rick Arter

I love my modded H50 and did some slush-box(idea from Slappa) runs last night got her down to 3-9c easy. More testing and pics to come. Using a E4500 @ 3.4ghz+ for benching currently.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fssbzz* 
Newegg had *ultra kaze 3000 for $9.99 + free shipping*
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...&Tpk=ultrakaze
but it will be a little loud. but if you are using Headphone for gaming..i don't mind getting those beast fan.
+ a shroud btw the fan and the radiator will be perfect for h50.

thanks bud
but i already order two Scythe Gentle Typhoons last night just waiting for it. right now im just testing push and pull so once i get my new fans i know how to configure it right thx for the suggestion though. thats a good price for 2 fans btw. i spent about $40-$45 on my two Scythe Gentle Typhoons. but i heard its the best u can get for push and pull.


----------



## Trademark

anyway i just oc to 3.65Ghz running 44 celcius to 46 celcius idle is that a good temp..?
or should i wait till i get a better fan and reseated my h-50 and use arctic silver 5? any suggestion?


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trademark* 
anyway i just oc to 3.65Ghz running 44 celcius to 46 celcius idle is that a good temp..?
or should i wait till i get a better fan and reseated my h-50 and use arctic silver 5? any suggestion?

load temps are what matters


----------



## Trademark

nvm darn too hot 80 celcius load LOL going to try to reseat my cpu once ill get my 2 new fans...


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trademark*


nvm darn too hot 80 celcius load LOL going to try to reseat my cpu once ill get my 2 new fans...


Try a different TIM as well. You made me feel better about my temps lol. I get around 65-70 in Prime95.


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trademark*


anyway i just oc to 3.65Ghz running 44 celcius to 46 celcius idle is that a good temp..?
or should i wait till i get a better fan and reseated my h-50 and use arctic silver 5? any suggestion?


this is a NONO...
keep the STOCK TIM..they are better then AS5..
just reseat the radiator with the fans..don't reseat the block..to keep that stock TIM.


----------



## Ceadderman

As Carfanatic pointed out, you'll want your shroud between the Pusher and Radiatior. Not the Puller and the Radiator. The dead spot goes where the flow is directed. So in the spot your thinking doesn't correct the dead spot. It would pretty much be as if you were never even running a shroud.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Yup I ordered the high speed fans. My shroud is Pull-Shroud-Rad-Push, not sure how efficient that is but I couldn't fit all three inside the case so pull fan is outside and shroud-rad-push are inside.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


this is a NONO...
keep the STOCK TIM..they are better then AS5..
just reseat the radiator with the fans..don't reseat the block..to keep that stock TIM.


I got 1-2c lower after using AS5 and if he seated it wrong he could have smeared the TIM and that could be the reason his temps are high.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
As Carfanatic pointed out, you'll want your shroud between the Pusher and Radiatior. Not the Puller and the Radiator. The dead spot goes where the flow is directed. So in the spot your thinking doesn't correct the dead spot. It would pretty much be as if you were never even running a shroud.









~Ceadder









I might give that a shot, but the only problem is that I pushed the grill in so I could fit the fan on the outside and I have no dremel to cut it out







. So the rad might not be flush since the grill is pushed into the shroud -_-


----------



## Trademark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


this is a NONO...
keep the STOCK TIM..they are better then AS5..
just reseat the radiator with the fans..don't reseat the block..to keep that stock TIM.


or i can always buy the stock tim (Shin-Etsu MicroSI).. but i thought AS5 is already a good tim? anyway i need to reseat my h-50 man darn temp... going to clean my cpu and reseat it..


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trademark*


or i can always buy the stock tim (Shin-Etsu MicroSI).. but i thought AS5 is already a good tim? anyway i need to reseat my h-50 man darn temp... going to clean my cpu and reseat it..


well ok.you can buy Shin-Etsu or TX3 are really great too.
i don't think AS5 is a very good tim for H50, base on my own experience.
I don't like the result on my H50 with AS5.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


well ok.you can buy Shin-Etsu or TX3 are really great too.
i don't think AS5 is a very good tim for H50, base on my own experience.
I don't like the result on my H50 with AS5.


u know its kinda weird though im getting 23 celcius without overclocking and 49 max load... do u think is it seated right? or something wrong? but everytime i tried to overclock my temp just go super high... so dont know i might wait for my new fans and try to reseat it and use shin-etsu


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trademark*


u know its kinda weird though im getting 23 celcius without overclocking and 49 max load... do u think is it seated right? or something wrong? but everytime i tried to overclock my temp just go super high... so dont know i might wait for my new fans and try to reseat it and use shin-etsu


what i will do is...just change the fan..without reseat the CPU block..then try and see if your temp is right.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


As Carfanatic pointed out, you'll want your shroud between the Pusher and Radiatior. Not the Puller and the Radiator. The dead spot goes where the flow is directed. So in the spot your thinking doesn't correct the dead spot. It would pretty much be as if you were never even running a shroud.









~Ceadder










I have a shroud on either side of the rad in between 2x SAN ACE H1011's is this then basically like you said making it as if there were no shrouds at all with my setup ?


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trademark* 
u know its kinda weird though im getting 23 celcius without overclocking and 49 max load... do u think is it seated right? or something wrong? but everytime i tried to overclock my temp just go super high... so dont know i might wait for my new fans and try to reseat it and use shin-etsu

I would say 23c is rather good at stock, tbh its very good at stock perhaps the voltages you are using are too high and thus resulting in your much higher than expected temps when OC ?


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trademark* 
u know its kinda weird though im getting 23 celcius without overclocking and 49 max load... do u think is it seated right? or something wrong? but everytime i tried to overclock my temp just go super high... so dont know i might wait for my new fans and try to reseat it and use shin-etsu

I would say 23c is rather good at stock, tbh its very good at stock perhaps the voltages you are using are too high and thus resulting in your much higher than expected temps when OC ?


----------



## AdvanSuper

Gonna strap this to my rad









http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835706015


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Gonna strap this to my rad









http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835706015

get 2 for push pull


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *OutOfBalanceOX* 
get 2 for push pull









I don't even want to know what they sound like hahaha.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


I don't even want to know what they sound like hahaha.


Well with those fans you could tie one to the top of your case and one to the bottom of your case and you could have your case hover just remember to tie your case to something solid that won't move you won't notice the noise if you let it hover over your house.....


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Well with those fans you could tie one to the top of your case and one to the bottom of your case and you could have your case hover just remember to tie your case to something solid that won't move you won't notice the noise if you let it hover over your house.....










Ordered.


----------



## TheLastPriest

So I swapped it onto my new I7 and I dont know what I am doing wrong, but the H50 cant keep up, my idle temps right now are around 45Â°c-50Â°c. Granted its hot in my house, but not that hot. I have tried reseating it multiple times and have switched from PP intake and PP exhaust with not much help...grrr


----------



## TweakerNoob

Is this enough shroud?


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheLastPriest*


So I swapped it onto my new I7 and I dont know what I am doing wrong, but the H50 cant keep up, my idle temps right now are around 45Â°c-50Â°c. Granted its hot in my house, but not that hot. I have tried reseating it multiple times and have switched from PP intake and PP exhaust with not much help...grrr


did you removed the old TIM and apply the new TIM?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Gonna strap this to my rad









http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835706015


That's insane! Keep us posted, pleaseee!


----------



## WorldExclusive

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheLastPriest*


So I swapped it onto my new I7 and I dont know what I am doing wrong, but the H50 cant keep up, my idle temps right now are around 45Â°c-50Â°c. Granted its hot in my house, but not that hot. I have tried reseating it multiple times and have switched from PP intake and PP exhaust with not much help...grrr


I get the same temps and I've been using SS thermal paste way before the H50. Got better temps with my MegaShadow, about 5C better. Idle temps with the H50 is 45C and my idle with the MegaShaow was 41C using the same paste. Full load on the H50 is 78C and on the MegaShadow was 73C @ 4GHz. Reseated and tried again, same results. I think the pump is too slow to keep up with the i7 processors. I only got a H50 because of the 800D. I will get a custom water cooling setup soon, but I expected better performance from the H50.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheLastPriest*


So I swapped it onto my new I7 and I dont know what I am doing wrong, but the H50 cant keep up, my idle temps right now are around 45Â°c-50Â°c. Granted its hot in my house, but not that hot. I have tried reseating it multiple times and have switched from PP intake and PP exhaust with not much help...grrr


The 1st thing we will have to ask is.. Within your Bios have you confirmed that the fan header that is powering the pump is running at 100% This means disabling power saving features such as Smartfan,Cool&quiet,etc.. and using a manual setting of 100%


----------



## WorldExclusive

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


The 1st thing we will have to ask is.. Within your Bios have you confirmed that the fan header that is powering the pump is running at 100% This means disabling power saving features such as Smartfan,Cool&quiet,etc.. and using a manual setting of 100%


I get the same temps, pump is operating at 1400RPM constantly. 
My idle is between 45-47C depending on fan speed. Not impressed coming from a MegaShadow.
The idle temp is really not the issue, it's the load temps that get out of control. There's a 10C+ difference between 4GHz and 4.2GHz. The pump needs to be quicker for 4GHz+ overclocking.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TweakerNoob*


Is this enough shroud?


































I'm doing the same thing except i have the dryer hose coming out of my floor vent with ac on as intake









Quote:



Originally Posted by *WorldExclusive*


I get the same temps, pump is operating at 1400RPM constantly. 
My idle is between 45-47C depending on fan speed. Not impressed coming from a MegaShadow.
The idle temp is really not the issue, it's the load temps that get out of control. There's a 10C+ difference between 4GHz and 4.2GHz. The pump needs to be quicker for 4GHz+ overclocking.


Thats where i'm at right now with a 29Â°c Ambient but it loads at around 64Â°c-65Â°c with Dragon age and just about any of the newer games and about 75Â°c avg. Linx


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WorldExclusive*


I get the same temps, pump is operating at 1400RPM constantly. 
My idle is between 45-47C depending on fan speed. Not impressed coming from a MegaShadow.
The idle temp is really not the issue, it's the load temps that get out of control. There's a 10C+ difference between 4GHz and 4.2GHz. The pump needs to be quicker for 4GHz+ overclocking.


What are your ambient and what were your previous temps?

Also are you sure it's making good contact?

Oh and the "pump" is not what usually cools the system, as long as you have good enough flow then that will not be bottleneck. The H50's pump is not strong but it's good enough for what it is in the loop. The radiator however has very little surface area, I believe it's on par with the stock Intel(non-980x) heatsink. The temps though because it is watercooling makes the most of that surface area.

My personal expereince is it's just to thin, you could try to modd it and add in a thicker rad or a 240 rad, but if I were you I'd just go with a nice thick Black Ice 120 rad, that way you don't kill the pump.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


That's insane! Keep us posted, pleaseee!


Hahaha I was jk no way would I spend $41 on a fan that has a db level of 66









Unless you guys wanna chip in for it


----------



## Ceadderman

They better be able to give the complementary morning Hummer for the price they want for them.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Gonna strap this to my rad









http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835706015


----------



## WorldExclusive

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


What are your ambient and what were your previous temps?

Also are you sure it's making good contact?

Oh and the "pump" is not what usually cools the system, as long as you have good enough flow then that will not be bottleneck. The H50's pump is not strong but it's good enough for what it is in the loop. The radiator however has very little surface area, I believe it's on par with the stock Intel(non-980x) heatsink. The temps though because it is watercooling makes the most of that surface area.

My personal expereince is it's just to thin, you could try to modd it and add in a thicker rad or a 240 rad, but if I were you I'd just go with a nice thick Black Ice 120 rad, that way you don't kill the pump.


Yep, it probably not thick enough. I'm going to price out a custom loop tomorrow minus the resell valur of the H50. If it's under $250 for solid parts I may make the jump to a proper cooling system. It's getting hot in my room with the extra 5850, lol.

Don't know my ambient temp but my house is cool all the time since I keep the AC pumping.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WorldExclusive*


Don't know my ambient temp but my house is cool all the time since I keep the AC pumping.



Well what do you set the AC to? Or is it just one of those 1-10 number settings or red to blue bars?

Also how's the airflow in the 800D? I read they weren't too great with air cooling and usually have a WC setup in them.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Hahaha I was jk no way would I spend $41 on a fan that has a db level of 66









Unless you guys wanna chip in for it










ahhh dammit!


----------



## TheLastPriest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


did you removed the old TIM and apply the new TIM?


Absolutely

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WorldExclusive*


I get the same temps and I've been using SS thermal paste way before the H50. Got better temps with my MegaShadow, about 5C better. Idle temps with the H50 is 45C and my idle with the MegaShaow was 41C using the same paste. Full load on the H50 is 78C and on the MegaShadow was 73C @ 4GHz. Reseated and tried again, same results. I think the pump is too slow to keep up with the i7 processors. I only got a H50 because of the 800D. I will get a custom water cooling setup soon, but I expected better performance from the H50.


Yeah, I think if I had ambient temps that were better it wouldnt be an issue but I am in that sweet spot in cali where its not hot enough to justify buildings being built with A/C but we still get a few months of 80Â°f-90Â°f-100Â°f+ temps every year, yesterday when I got home it was like 92Â°f in my house. It doesnt really bother me, spent a good lot of time in the desert growing up, but it sure bothers my computer. This has sealed the deal for me though, I am going to go full WC


----------



## Trademark

hi again guys
I just reseated my H-50 without push and pull right now and the result after doing some benchmark.









is that temp 60+ to 73celcius acceptable?
running @ 4.0 Ghz 1.336V.
did Intel burn test and linX (3hours)..
if not ill wait till i get my 2fans to do push and pull...


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trademark* 
hi again guys
I just reseated my H-50 without push and pull right now and the result after doing some benchmark.









is that temp 60+ to 73celcius acceptable?
running @ 4.0 Ghz 1.336V.
did Intel burn test and linX (3hours)..
if not ill wait till i get my 2fans to do push and pull...

looks good to me.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fssbzz* 
looks good to me.

thx man ur a big help







had to use a new h-50 and reinstall it last night .. so i guess the stock thermal paste works better than AS5 LOL


----------



## WorldExclusive

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Well what do you set the AC to? Or is it just one of those 1-10 number settings or red to blue bars?

Also how's the airflow in the 800D? I read they weren't too great with air cooling and usually have a WC setup in them.

Set it around 68F. The 800D has all aftermarket fans with good airflow but the FT02 I had still beats it. I got the 800D to water cool which the FT02 can't do very well. Since the next gen cards aren't due until next year I'll buy some water blocks for my GPUs now. The H50 was easier to mount than the MegaShadow hands down.


----------



## Trademark

wonder how much improvement im going to get after i install my 2 Scythe Gentle Typhoons. cant wait... 2more days to go..


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trademark* 
thx man ur a big help







had to use a new h-50 and reinstall it last night .. so i guess the stock thermal paste works better than AS5 LOL


Quote:


Originally Posted by *trademark* 
wonder how much improvement im going to get after i install my 2 Scythe Gentle Typhoons. cant wait... 2more days to go..

np
ya..AS5 just doesn't work very well with H50.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fssbzz* 
np
ya..AS5 just doesn't work very well with H50.









yah its crappy








do u know how much celcius would drop with push and pull running 2x Scythe Gentle Typhoons?


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trademark* 
yah its crappy








do u know how much celcius would drop with push and pull running 2x Scythe Gentle Typhoons?

i believe it will be 5'C~12'C?
depends on which typhoon u get. isit AP15?


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fssbzz* 
i believe it will be 5'c~12'c?
Depends on which typhoon u get. Isit ap15?

d1225c12b5ap-15


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trademark* 
d1225c12b5ap-15

yea i believe it will be 5~12'C drop


----------



## Trademark

so cool thx for the info man.


----------



## evilviking

I'm working on getting my H50 set up as an intake on the front of my case. What do you guys think of how I have it setup:

http://www.overclock.net/intel-gener...l#post10030996

Thanks for any advice!


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *evilviking*


I'm working on getting my H50 set up as an intake on the front of my case. What do you guys think of how I have it setup:

http://www.overclock.net/intel-gener...l#post10030996

Thanks for any advice!


Hey evilviking. I just wanted to point out a couple things. If you're planning to setup as intake on the front, I believe from the pictures in your post, that the fan in the 5.25" bay looks to be facing the wrong way (exhausting)? The other thing I would consider doing rather than using the metal pci plate would be to use zip-ties instead. My concern would be that you may end up putting unwanted pressure on the fan hub where the bearing is and causing it to possibly not spin as freely or cause damage to the fan in the long run. Otherwise, everything looks good. There are lots of people who have had good results moving the radiator to the front like this.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trademark*


thx man ur a big help







had to use a new h-50 and reinstall it last night .. so i guess the stock thermal paste works better than AS5 LOL



Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


np
ya..AS5 just doesn't work very well with H50.










I am using AS5 and after the 200 hour cure time it beat the stock TIM only because of the amount they use on it. Really though if applied correctly both TIM's should be right on par with each other at least after the AS5 is cured.


----------



## Blazing angel

when i get my h50 should I remove some of the stock tim to thin it out?


----------



## Blazing angel

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-049-_-Product

would this be a good fan?

and where can i buy a shroud or 2?


----------



## Trademark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I am using AS5 and after the 200 hour cure time it beat the stock TIM only because of the amount they use on it. Really though if applied correctly both TIM's should be right on par with each other at least after the AS5 is cured.


i tried to reseat 8 times using as5 .. but i only waited few days to a week. so i guess i should have waited longer.
but i'm happy on my temp right now.. running @ 4.0Ghz 1.336V been testing some games i havent seen my temp go above 50+ celcius yet so im really happy about it.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blazing angel*


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-049-_-Product

would this be a good fan?

and where can i buy a shroud or 2?


This is a better fan and I would recommend this over that.

As for shrouds, you can make your own with cheap old fans that you may have laying around or you can pick up shrouds here, here or here.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


This is a better fan and I would recommend this over that.

As for shrouds, you can make your own with cheap old fans that you may have laying around or you can pick up shrouds here, here or here.


I agree man Scythe Gentle Typhoon is awesome been reading lots of good review. infact i'm waiting for my 2 Scythe Gentle Typhoon right now to set up my Push And Pull..


----------



## Blazing angel

ok, so id like to cut a ntec tricool fan into a shroud, but one question. the second shroud you listed appears to show a diagram with its box like abilites. the shorud ill make with be a almost perfect circle. the only advantage the boc would have is a inty bit more flow. What is reccomended?


----------



## Blazing angel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trademark*


I agree man Scythe Gentle Typhoon is awesome been reading lots of good review. infact i'm waiting for my 2 Scythe Gentle Typhoon right now to set up my Push And Pull..


what are your current temps at 4ghZ?


----------



## evilviking

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


Hey evilviking. I just wanted to point out a couple things. If you're planning to setup as intake on the front, I believe from the pictures in your post, that the fan in the 5.25" bay looks to be facing the wrong way (exhausting)? The other thing I would consider doing rather than using the metal pci plate would be to use zip-ties instead. My concern would be that you may end up putting unwanted pressure on the fan hub where the bearing is and causing it to possibly not spin as freely or cause damage to the fan in the long run. Otherwise, everything looks good. There are lots of people who have had good results moving the radiator to the front like this.


Hey xmisery, thank you for your reply! I double checked that Coolermaster case fan, and it's pulling air in correctly. Great idea with the zip ties as well. I was able to tie the back-upper-right corner of the "pull" fan to the support bracket on the side of my case. That should keep it from falling off of the shelf if nothing else, and I may try to find somewhere to tie more if I can.

I also check the pressure of the PCI plate on the fan, and it wasn't nearly as tight as I thought - the plate will actually fall rather easily. It seems like much of the tautness of my setup comes from the tubes being twisted slightly (making the push/pull setup twist at about 12 degrees or so in the 5.25" bay), and the pressure of the pump/tubes pulling at the radiator isn't too bad after all.

I also installed two Rosewill 2000rpm fans on the radiator, which helped lower temps by another 4*C or so.

In other news, that little cardboard piece that I had stuffed above the radiator (to try and keep it from twisting in the 5.25" bay) came loose and fell with the corner catching in the "push" fan. It sounded like a buzz saw until I quickly shut down and pulled it out.









My system doesn't move at all unless I'm working on it, so this should work out ok I think.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blazing angel*


what are your current temps at 4ghZ?


40+ idle/55-66 Max Load right now it still kinda hot so i order 2 new(better) fans to replace my old push and pull setup.
but if i do occ/prime im hiting up to 71max load.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Apparently Corsair is coming out with a new version of the H50

http://forum.corsair.com/forums/show...98&postcount=7

http://forum.corsair.com/forums/show...37&postcount=8

http://forum.corsair.com/forums/show...90&postcount=9


----------



## TheLastPriest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


The 1st thing we will have to ask is.. Within your Bios have you confirmed that the fan header that is powering the pump is running at 100% This means disabling power saving features such as Smartfan,Cool&quiet,etc.. and using a manual setting of 100%


Ok I am mildly stupid, it wasnt setup to run full speed, was in turbo mode, whatever that means, the pump was only running at 950rpm, that being said I have adjusted it to run full bore but it hasnt changed the temps at all


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheLastPriest*


Ok I am mildly stupid, it wasnt setup to run full speed, was in turbo mode, whatever that means, the pump was only running at 950rpm, that being said I have adjusted it to run full bore but it hasnt changed the temps at all


confirm the rpm in the bios and windows and see if they match up


----------



## TheLastPriest

its running at 1318-1339, not sure how to get it to go faster


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheLastPriest*


its running at 1318-1339, not sure how to get it to go faster


Ok that is about the avg. RPM


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Apparently Corsair is coming out with a new version of the H50

http://forum.corsair.com/forums/show...98&postcount=7

http://forum.corsair.com/forums/show...37&postcount=8

http://forum.corsair.com/forums/show...90&postcount=9


Read the whole thread







Good info
Ohh it was coming.. and me going bananas i mean absolutely ballistic didn't help much being my replacments cost them over $1500 upper managment was not happy. When in reality they dont have to do anything for you. but they made it right. Still wasn't fun. Corsair is still top notch in my book. I'm glad to see it worked on though.


----------



## ecaftermath

Anyone's H50 having some noise problem? I always hear this LOUD buzzing noise..it goes on and off..I think it's coming off the radiator..i'm not sure.. but it's hella loud and annoying..


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ecaftermath*


Anyone's H50 having some noise problem? I always hear this LOUD buzzing noise..it goes on and off..I think it's coming off the radiator..i'm not sure.. but it's hella loud and annoying..


You are the 2nd person who I've seen to mention that random odd issue... but no clue if the other user solved it... I know it was mentioned allot pages back on this thread.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup max is 1400 but I've never gotten near enough to confirm that speed. I'm currently running at 100% (I set speed 100-100% in my BIOS for no variance) and am currently running 1328 rpm.









Random odd noise emanating from the H50 is more likely a bit of trapped air in the flow. I know that people don't subscribe to this idea, but there is a minor amount of air in the system. A full container lacking air does not slosh. This puppy sloshes. At least mine does. It's my assumption that there is air in the system to allow for expansion. I've forgotten what the boiling point of water is but hot water builds up pressure. The system has to be tolerant of possible heat surges or the system could burst.

So try rapping on the tubes with an unsharpened pencil as it's running to see if that clears it up. I myself had that noise for a very short bit and it cleared up soon as I rapped on the outflow tube which is the left one if you're reading the logo right side up.









~Ceadder


----------



## TweakerNoob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Yup max is 1400 but I've never gotten near enough to confirm that speed. I'm currently running at 100% (I set speed 100-100% in my BIOS for no variance) and am currently running 1328 rpm.









~Ceadder










Have you ran the 12v from your PSU to see if the rpms go up any?


----------



## Ceadderman

And how do you propose I track the results? Stick my peter in the socket and wait for the results?









Short of me plugging into a fan controller with RPM gauge my MoBo is the best I can do. Mine came with a reasonable sensor system to boot. PC Probe II is a very nice setup.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *TweakerNoob*


Have you ran the 12v from your PSU to see if the rpms go up any?


----------



## TweakerNoob

I don't know if you were trying to be funny or condescending. Anyhow, check the link.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...?tl=g2c251s634

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


And how do you propose I track the results? Stick my peter in the socket and wait for the results?









~Ceadder


----------



## Ceadderman

Funny of course.









However I'm pretty sure that Corsair takes into account the +/- factor in power to rpm ratings. So I'm not worried if I wring out exactly 1400 rpm. I doubt the 72 extra rpm would make a monumental difference in my temps though.

Sorry bout the peter joke if it went over like a lead balloon. I always go for the chuckle when trying to make a point if I can help it.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *TweakerNoob*


I don't know if you were trying to be funny or condescending. Anyhow, check the link.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...?tl=g2c251s634


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ecaftermath*


Anyone's H50 having some noise problem? I always hear this LOUD buzzing noise..it goes on and off..I think it's coming off the radiator..i'm not sure.. but it's hella loud and annoying..


RMA it and they will send you a proper working one. If you don't have a cooler just pick up a cheapo one and use it while the H50 is sent in.


----------



## Muntey

I just picked up a CM R4 and have managed to get a drop of about 10C at load. Before it was almost licking 70C, but now I can't get it to touch 60! I'm going to pick up a second one soon and see how that goes!


----------



## FragMasta75

Sign me up for the club, ill post a pic when it comes in the mail from Newegg, haha


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FragMasta75*


Sign me up for the club, ill post a pic when it comes in the mail from Newegg, haha


It's a self sign up just go to the first page and edit the chart with all of our names and add yourself tothe bottom. ;D


----------



## PC Gamer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Muntey* 
I just picked up a CM R4 and have managed to get a drop of about 10C at load. Before it was almost licking 70C, but now I can't get it to touch 60! I'm going to pick up a second one soon and see how that goes!

Are you running your fan as intake or exhaust?


----------



## Blazing angel

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ecaftermath* 
Anyone's H50 having some noise problem? I always hear this LOUD buzzing noise..it goes on and off..I think it's coming off the radiator..i'm not sure.. but it's hella loud and annoying..

it might not be the rad. mabe your psu cant supply power to so many devices after there all plugged in? Maybe its your mobo? check it without the h50, and if it still buzes, its not the h50. if it doesnt, its either the rad pump or psu


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blazing angel*


it might not be the rad. mabe your psu cant supply power to so many devices after there all plugged in? Maybe its your mobo? check it without the h50, and if it still buzes, its not the h50. if it doesnt, its either the rad pump or psu


He has a Corsair HX850 he has plenty of power judging by sig
Plus the pump takes about the same power as a normal case fan









Quote:



Originally Posted by *ecaftermath*


Anyone's H50 having some noise problem? I always hear this LOUD buzzing noise..it goes on and off..I think it's coming off the radiator..i'm not sure.. but it's hella loud and annoying..


Try changing the orientation of your rad. If you have it mounted with the lines at the top then mount it with the lines at the bottom or vice versa.

If lightly tapping at the lines and then this doesn't work setup a RMA.


----------



## Timid

Alright so like I'm getting Idle temps of mid to high 40s and max load temps of 75 on 12+ hours of Prime, so I was just wondering if that is fine for now? I have a P/P setup with my i7 running at 3.8GHz at 1.23v. Ambient temps are around 26C. I was considering reseating but the only thermal compound I have access to right now is AS5 and I've read it's not a good mix with the H50 so should I just stay with the temps I have now?


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Timid* 
Alright so like I'm getting Idle temps of mid to high 40s and max load temps of 75 on 12+ hours of Prime, so I was just wondering if that is fine for now? I have a P/P setup with my i7 running at 3.8GHz at 1.23v. Ambient temps are around 26C. I was considering reseating but the only thermal compound I have access to right now is AS5 and I've read it's not a good mix with the H50 so should I just stay with the temps I have now?

Unless you like to run Prime like your going for the high score in pacman your fine with those temps and will likely never see them under normal use. unless you Fold

AS5 is good with the H50 but has a 200 Hour cure time.

IMPO
I would leave it and have fun with my system


----------



## Xantos12

Is the h50 better then http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...2E16835185125?

Big tempo difference?


----------



## pieisgood2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Timid*


Alright so like I'm getting Idle temps of mid to high 40s and max load temps of 75 on 12+ hours of Prime, so I was just wondering if that is fine for now? I have a P/P setup with my i7 running at 3.8GHz at 1.23v. Ambient temps are around 26C. I was considering reseating but the only thermal compound I have access to right now is AS5 and I've read it's not a good mix with the H50 so should I just stay with the temps I have now?


AS5 is fine, the 200 hour cure time is annoying though. also it discolored the copper on my H50 heatsink, but it doesn't affect the performance. i'll post pictures the next time i decided to reseat. i'm planning to lap it anyway.


----------



## Timid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Unless you like to run Prime like your going for the high score in pacman your fine with those temps and will likely never see them under normal use. unless you Fold

AS5 is good with the H50 but has a 200 Hour cure time.

IMPO 
I would leave it and have fun with my system










Well I don't mind reseating it now if I know it'll drop the temps by a good amount. If it's only going to drop it by a few degrees then I'll probably just wait until summer is over to reseat it.


----------



## WTHbot

Why wouldn't AS5 be a good mix??

That makes no sense. . .It's an excellent Thermal Compound. If it had 0 cure time and it was non-conductive then it would be one of the best out there by far.

What new system builders see is an older technology, what I see is "Old Faithful."


----------



## looser101

Nothing wrong with it. The problem is that people panic when they see higher temps than expected, until it fully cures.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Nothing wrong with it. The problem is that people panic when they see higher temps than expected, until it fully cures.

People worry to much, or they are to impatient.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
People worry to much, or they are to impatient.

Agreed and also people that just either don't know or don't even remember about the cure time. People compare AS5 to any 0 cure time TIM and quickly dismiss it as AS5 is no good or not as good when they didn't give it a chance.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Agreed and also people that just either don't know or don't even remember about the cure time. People compare AS5 to any 0 cure time TIM and quickly dismiss it as AS5 is no good or not as good when they didn't give it a chance.

I just remember a time when no one used anything but AS5. . .


----------



## FragMasta75

How well do you guys think this setup will work?

From left to right:

H50 fan < H50 Rad < Scythe Ultra Kaze

This is obviously an exhaust setup, but I wanna try to have the H50 fan on the outside of the case. Anyone think that would work well, or would it be better inside with the rad and kaze fan? I'm also gonna put rubber gromits in between each layer to limit rattling and noise etc...


----------



## Wingzero

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FragMasta75* 
How well do you guys think this setup will work?

From left to right:

H50 fan < H50 Rad < Scythe Ultra Kaze

This is obviously an exhaust setup, but I wanna try to have the H50 fan on the outside of the case. Anyone think that would work well, or would it be better inside with the rad and kaze fan? I'm also gonna put rubber gromits in between each layer to limit rattling and noise etc...

Corsair said during their testing using the Rad fan as intake is the best option to have cooler air pushed through the rad.

Linky


----------



## FragMasta75

i dont really like the idea of warm air blowing all over my mobo/memory/video card etc, so when i get this its gonna have to be exhaust. Im just trying to figure out if i have to do exhaust, what the best configuration is gonna be. honestly, i wouldnt think having air come from the inside of my 800D is gonna be that much cooler than my room anyway, haha. This thing has tons of room inside, and great airflow.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FragMasta75* 
i dont really like the idea of warm air blowing all over my mobo/memory/video card etc, so when i get this its gonna have to be exhaust. Im just trying to figure out if i have to do exhaust, what the best configuration is gonna be. honestly, i wouldnt think having air come from the inside of my 800D is gonna be that much cooler than my room anyway, haha. This thing has tons of room inside, and great airflow.

If you have fans moutned on the top exhausting out then you should have no problem with hotter air being in took into the case. Most people with the H50 use intake by the way.

Oh and I see 7c temperature drops when I do intake with a shroud.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
If you have fans moutned on the top exhausting out then you should have no problem with hotter air being in took into the case. Most people with the H50 use intake by the way.

Oh and I see 7c temperature drops when I do intake with a shroud.

It depends on the build hardware setup.. ventilation... & ambient... in other words for yours probably its on favor for intake on H50... but on others is exhaust... in other words its a personal preference


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wingzero* 
Corsair said during their testing using the Rad fan as intake is the best option to have cooler air pushed through the rad.

Linky

They didn't consider so many things its laughable. If your computer is setup to exhaust out the back and you change it because they suggest that you do intake you could mess up the whole thermal dynamics of your case and really screw up more than just your CPU cooling. Most modern cases are setup to intake in the front(some from the bottom too) and exhaust out the top and back of the case. You should always have more intake on your computer than exhaust to maintain a positive pressure in your case. Most of the people that have the H50 setup in the back of their case have it setup as exhaust so they maintain their computers natural setup. I have tried intake and exhaust in the back just to test the differences there was only a 1c difference for CPU temps but a 10c difference for the other components in my computer so not really worth it. I now like many others have the H50 as front intake so everything works like it should in my computer


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
It depends on the build hardware setup.. ventilation... & ambient... in other words for yours probably its on favor for intake on H50... but on others is exhaust... in other words its a personal preference

That was the whole point of my first sentence, I justified why an Intake on his case is ideal IF he had top mounted exhaust fans.


----------



## Ceadderman

True. But now you can get the same results in faster burn in times. That to me is a win. btw, I'm not impatient. I'm OCD.







lol

But I don't OC til I get everything running optimally anyway. So I could run the AS5 if I wanted to. I just like my Shin-Etsu paste.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
I just remember a time when no one used anything but AS5. . .


----------



## Ceadderman

Stick a shroud in there and you have a winner in either juxtaposition. I have mine set up as exhaust with a shroud and average temps on a reasonably cool day have been between 30-36c Today is not a reasonably cool day and I'm running 40c of course there is a fire nearby which is making things in the house smell like my system is burning.









So I shut the windows and kicked on the AC. Temps should plummet and smell should abate soon.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *FragMasta75*


How well do you guys think this setup will work?

From left to right:

H50 fan < H50 Rad < Scythe Ultra Kaze

This is obviously an exhaust setup, but I wanna try to have the H50 fan on the outside of the case. Anyone think that would work well, or would it be better inside with the rad and kaze fan? I'm also gonna put rubber gromits in between each layer to limit rattling and noise etc...


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


True. But now you can get the same results in faster burn in times. That to me is a win. btw, I'm not impatient. I'm OCD.







lol

But I don't OC til I get everything running optimally anyway. So I could run the AS5 if I wanted to. I just like my Shin-Etsu paste.









~Ceadder










Meh, I'll always use AS5, or at least always have a bottle of it just incase I get terrible results with other stuff.

I'm gonna buy this some time, not because it's better just because it's a huge bottle.


----------



## Ceadderman

Save yourself some dough and get the 20 gram tube if they have it. Trust me. It will take you FOREVER to run through it.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


Meh, I'll always use AS5, or at least always have a bottle of it just incase I get terrible results with other stuff.

I'm gonna buy this some time, not because it's better just because it's a huge bottle.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Save yourself some dough and get the 20 gram tube if they have it. Trust me. It will take you *FOREVER* to run through it.









~Ceadder










Oh I know.

But when your applying it 20-30 times a day it will be worth it.

Is the 20gram that much cheaper?


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


Oh I know.

But when your applying it 20-30 times a day it will be worth it.

Is the 20gram that much cheaper?


i think I'm lost isn't that tube MX-2 ? why don't you get the MX-3 version


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


i think I'm lost isn't that tube MX-2 ? why don't you get the MX-3 version


Not much difference, and it's cheaper.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


Not much difference, and it's cheaper.


well yeah as in cheaper & a good back up incase any other thermal paste goes wrong... then yes you are right its worth having it.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


well yeah as in cheaper & a good back up incase any other thermal paste goes wrong... then yes you are right its worth having it.


Most Benches have MX-3 as 2c lower at the most.

 130grams!


----------



## Ceadderman

I think that it's 10 to 15 dollars cheaper depending on where you get it.









130 grams
















lol

~Ceadder


----------



## FragMasta75

To be honest, im super new to all this and ive done some research as you can tell, but i have no idea what a shroud is or where to buy one. Newegg didnt give me any search results for one.

Also, any opinions on the pull fan being on the outside of the case? Maybe someone said something about it, but i might have missed it.

Is this MX-2/MX-3 thermal compound the stuff to have now? I was under the impression that AS5 was still the thermal compound to have...

I do have 3 exhaust fans at the top of my case, but the 800D is designed to take air in from the bottom and exhaust it thru the back/top so im still kinda torn on intake/exhaust for my H50. I guess what ill do is test it when i get it with both configs, and post the results for you guys. Only time can tell now...

EDIT: For shrouds, found Pings guide on the first page. doh


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay a shroud is a box that lifts the fan away from the Radiator. This allows the fan to put more airflow on the Rad, lessens the dB level reverberating off the Rad and improves temps as a result. Depending on the length of the shroud you can all but remove the dead spot that is directly behind the hub of the fan as well.

I had already purchased 2 Yate Loon 120mm fans so when I got my H50 I gut the mechanicals out of the supplied fan and used that as my shroud. I removed the mounting bars as close to the interior edge as I could to lessen any obstruction they could possibly have caused.

I highly recommend this if you have an old 120mm fan laying around.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *FragMasta75*


To be honest, im super new to all this and ive done some research as you can tell, but i have no idea what a shroud is or where to buy one. Newegg didnt give me any search results for one.

Also, any opinions on the pull fan being on the outside of the case? Maybe someone said something about it, but i might have missed it.

Is this MX-2/MX-3 thermal compound the stuff to have now? I was under the impression that AS5 was still the thermal compound to have...

I do have 3 exhaust fans at the top of my case, but the 800D is designed to take air in from the bottom and exhaust it thru the back/top so im still kinda torn on intake/exhaust for my H50. I guess what ill do is test it when i get it with both configs, and post the results for you guys. Only time can tell now...


----------



## Muntey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I now like many others have the H50 as front intake so everything works like it should in my computer










But wont that still just blow hot air all over your parts? It would also still mess up the thermal dynamics as you are now putting hot air into the case, which acts differently to cooler air.


----------



## Ceadderman

Front air is cooler than rear air Muntey.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Muntey*


But wont that still just blow hot air all over your parts? It would also still mess up the thermal dynamics as you are now putting hot air into the case, which acts differently to cooler air.


----------



## Muntey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Front air is cooler than rear air Muntey.









~Ceadder










Yes, the air being taken in to the system will be slightly colder than if it were at the back but, this air is being heated up by the rad, making it hotter than air just sucked in normally.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ahhh I see where you were headed with that now.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Muntey*


Yes, the air being taken in to the system will be slightly colder than if it were at the back but, this air is being heated up by the rad, making it hotter than air just sucked in normally.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Muntey*


Yes, the air being taken in to the system will be slightly colder than if it were at the back but, this air is being heated up by the rad, making it hotter than air just sucked in normally.


Yes of course it does put hotter air in but at least with mine I have it at the top of my setup so it basically goes directly out the back and top without getting to the rest of the components. I have two fans lower than the H50 one on the HDD cage and one where there are no other devices that supply cool air to the video cards and most of the MB. Not to mention the 220mm side fan blows cool air in and hits all of the mb and video cards.

I have tested intake and exhaust at the back of my case, on the side of my case(replacing the 220mm fan and adding another 120mm above the H50), at the top of my case and where it rests now at the front of my case.

The current setup in front as intake is the coolest both for CPU and for all of the other components in my case as well.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FragMasta75*


To be honest, im super new to all this and ive done some research as you can tell, but i have no idea what a shroud is or where to buy one. Newegg didnt give me any search results for one.

Also, any opinions on the pull fan being on the outside of the case? Maybe someone said something about it, but i might have missed it.

Is this MX-2/MX-3 thermal compound the stuff to have now? I was under the impression that AS5 was still the thermal compound to have...

I do have 3 exhaust fans at the top of my case, but the 800D is designed to take air in from the bottom and exhaust it thru the back/top so im still kinda torn on intake/exhaust for my H50. I guess what ill do is test it when i get it with both configs, and post the results for you guys. Only time can tell now...

EDIT: For shrouds, found Pings guide on the first page. doh


I really suggest to try both ways, intake and then exhaust and keep it however you have a better temperature balance. For me it worked a lot better as exhaust in my case.


----------



## FragMasta75

Cool man, thx for the reply. I'll give both a shot and see what works.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FragMasta75*


Cool man, thx for the reply. I'll give both a shot and see what works.


Keep us posted.







Really easy to do so why not you know?


----------



## AdvanSuper

Anyone have overclocked i7's in here at 4+Ghz? What are you temps at idle and load?


----------



## TheLastPriest

See I have gone through this thermal dynamics discussion with myself MANY times since I got the H50 and I came to a realization, on an intake push/pull setup as long as the intake fan you are hooking the rad to is higher than the video card it really doesnt matter that you are blowing warm air into the case, because the processor is being cooled by it _before_ the air becomes warm, yes the mobo and ram might be a little warmer but rarely do I hear people complain that their mobo/ram is too hot. It is that logic that I used (as flawed as it may be) to determine that intake push/pull is the best setup because you are getting cooler air and not adding too much heat to the case rather than pulling hot air from inside the case.

Does everyone think it is really that beneficial to get special fans specifically for the H50, currently I have an Antec Tri-cool and the one that came with the H50 running my push pull, as I stated previously I am not hugely pleased with the temps of my I7 so was thinking of investing in some decent fans but only if it is worth it, no point in spending $20-$40 for a couple of fans for a 2Â° temp drop. With that question I also ask what fans everyone would recommend? Im not overly concerned about noise (I run my 5870 at 65% fan 24/7) but want max cooling performance.


----------



## TheLastPriest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Anyone have overclocked i7's in here at 4+Ghz? What are you temps at idle and load?


I am at 3.8ghz (having trouble maintaining decent temps with the voltage it will take for 4ghz)

Currently my ambient temps are 26Â°c, idle temps are 42Â°c with a load in the mid 70's


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheLastPriest*


See I have gone through this thermal dynamics discussion with myself MANY times since I got the H50 and I came to a realization, on an intake push/pull setup as long as the intake fan you are hooking the rad to is higher than the video card it really doesnt matter that you are blowing warm air into the case, because the processor is being cooled by it _before_ the air becomes warm, yes the mobo and ram might be a little warmer but rarely do I hear people complain that their mobo/ram is too hot. It is that logic that I used (as flawed as it may be) to determine that intake push/pull is the best setup because you are getting cooler air and not adding too much heat to the case rather than pulling hot air from inside the case.

Does everyone think it is really that beneficial to get special fans specifically for the H50, currently I have an Antec Tri-cool and the one that came with the H50 running my push pull, as I stated previously I am not hugely pleased with the temps of my I7 so was thinking of investing in some decent fans but only if it is worth it, no point in spending $20-$40 for a couple of fans for a 2Â° temp drop. With that question I also ask what fans everyone would recommend? Im not overly concerned about noise (I run my 5870 at 65% fan 24/7) but want max cooling performance.


I think it is definitely beneficial to have fans you buy just for the H50 setup. With stock H50 and stock CPU settings mine was still running too high for my tastes(60c which is hot for an AMD threshold is 63c) while running Prime95. After adding even slightly better fans than the stock fan Akasa Apache fans I was able to OC to 3.8ghz and maintain the same temps as stock. Now after adding some better fans Scythe GentleTyphoons AP15 fans and two shrouds I can easily run any OC my board can handle and it stays in the 40c range under full loads.

So at least for me it wasn't a 2c change adding fans over stock H50 it was almost 20c.


----------



## TheLastPriest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I think it is definitely beneficial to have fans you buy just for the H50 setup. With stock H50 and stock CPU settings mine was still running too high for my tastes(60c which is hot for an AMD threshold is 63c) while running Prime95. After adding even slightly better fans than the stock fan Akasa Apache fans I was able to OC to 3.8ghz and maintain the same temps as stock. Now after adding some better fans Scythe GentleTyphoons AP15 fans and two shrouds I can easily run any OC my board can handle and it stays in the 40c range under full loads.

So at least for me it wasn't a 2c change adding fans over stock H50 it was almost 20c.


No joke, that big of a difference huh, I have heard teh GT's are quiet, are they the best performance wise as well?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheLastPriest*


No joke, that big of a difference huh, I have heard teh GT's are quiet, are they the best performance wise as well?


I chose based on noise vs performance for me they are the best. I use my PC for everything from watching TV to playing most my video games and have it hooked to a regular TV so not having it be loud to keep it cool is a must. You could choose many other fans that of course are higher CFM and RPM but their noise level is also higher. There is also the option of choosing 3k+rpm fans with very high CFM and use a fan controller/motherboard settings to control how loud you want them to be too.

In the end it is up to you to decide where you want to be noise vs cooling. For me the GT AP15 fans with shrouds are perfect.


----------



## Ceadderman

I'm with you there Car, I got my Yates because I wanted to have them on hand if I needed them. When I first fired up I was running 49c with the stock fan in exhaust only. I added my P/S/R/P in exhaust and lapped both surfaces and my lowest temp has been 30c. That to me is a good reason to have the better fans.

As far as heat going through my Rad, where it's at there's hardly any heat being blown into and across the vanes being that it's in the front of the case in between the MoBo and the 5.25 bays. In fact it's half inside the bays.









When I do my next vid I'll make sure to show how my fans are dialed back by my MoBo. They still can be a bit loud at times but they're not bad for the most part.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheLastPriest

Yeah mine is in my living room but I have surround sound for the living room tv to drown it out and frankly I dont know that it could get much louder than it is now with 3 antec tri cool's, the stock corsair, a red rosewill, the 200mm up top, PSU fan, 8600gt fan and the 5870 going at around 70% at all times.

The local frys has a pretty crappy selection of fans but out of what I found that look promising

http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6634

http://www.enermaxusa.com/catalog/pr...roducts_id=140

Either of those do well?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheLastPriest* 
Yeah mine is in my living room but I have surround sound for the living room tv to drown it out and frankly I dont know that it could get much louder than it is now with 3 antec tri cool's, the stock corsair, a red rosewill, the 200mm up top, PSU fan, 8600gt fan and the 5870 going at around 70% at all times.

The local frys has a pretty crappy selection of fans but out of what I found that look promising

http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6634

http://www.enermaxusa.com/catalog/pr...roducts_id=140

Either of those do well?

Those are great case fans. I don't know if I seen anyone use them as radiator fans though and do not know their performance when they are trying to push/pull air through resistances like a radiator so hard to say if they would do well. We could definitely find you some fans if you really want that you could hear above your current fans and your surround sound like These(66.5db).

If you want quiet fans you will never hear above your current fans there is Scythe GentleTyphoons AP15 fans that run at 1850rpm and you'd never hear them above your vga fans. If you want more cooling with some headroom to tweak the noise vs cooling like Ceddar is using there is Yate Loons or even Scythe Ultra Kaze.


----------



## Wingzero

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Anyone have overclocked i7's in here at 4+Ghz? What are you temps at idle and load?

Idle 25-40C Load 65-70C


----------



## ecaftermath

Thanks guys for the suggestion on the issue for my H50.

I did try the tapping the hose and I think it worked. It stopped for a bit but still has the buzzing noise. Just not as frequent. I placed it at the top of the case. The spot closest to the front panel. Maybe ill get better result if I place it at the rear side since its quite a stretch to the front.

I already contacted Corsair about this problem through their site's technical support page. Let's see what they'll say! (Doesn't open on the weekends).


----------



## digital_steve

I had a H50 win on the weekend
I had to pull my system apart as the crap cable routing was annoying me and having a fan outside the case was annoying me too.
So basically, after re-cabling, reseating the H50 with MX-3 (what i've always used, apart from when i was trialing indigo extreme) in exhaust at the rear of the case (still the same) using the scythe sflex 1900rpm fans, one shroud on the pusher and REMOVING the shroud from the puller, i got a 2c drop on idle and a 5c drop on load!

I can't work it out.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


I had a H50 win on the weekend
I had to pull my system apart as the crap cable routing was annoying me and having a fan outside the case was annoying me too.
So basically, after re-cabling, reseating the H50 with MX-3 (what i've always used, apart from when i was trialing indigo extreme) in exhaust at the rear of the case (still the same) using the scythe sflex 1900rpm fans, one shroud on the pusher and REMOVING the shroud from the puller, i got a 2c drop on idle and a 5c drop on load!

I can't work it out.


Post some pics?


----------



## FragMasta75

Can someone tell me or show me whats the best way to use a thermal compound with the H50? I know the line technique is what's best for i7s, but from what I can see from the stock TIM on the H50, it's probably gonna need more TIM and in a different configuration to cover the entire surface. Pictures would be great!


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FragMasta75*


Can someone tell me or show me whats the best way to use a thermal compound with the H50? I know the line technique is what's best for i7s, but from what I can see from the stock TIM on the H50, it's probably gonna need more TIM and in a different configuration to cover the entire surface. Pictures would be great!











(The dot method) and let the pressure clamping it do the spread
















YouTube- How Thermal Compound Spreads


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheLastPriest*


No joke, that big of a difference huh, I have heard teh GT's are quiet, are they the best performance wise as well?


I really didn't see much of a difference with new fans - maybe a couple degrees at most.


----------



## FragMasta75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


(The dot method) and let the pressure clamping it do the spread









YouTube- How Thermal Compound Spreads



Dude, thankyou so much! This was very helpful!


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FragMasta75*


Dude, thankyou so much! This was very helpful!










Np







Anytime


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


(The dot method) and let the pressure clamping it do the spread









YouTube- How Thermal Compound Spreads


i actually tried multiple methods multiple times with the h50 and found that spreading a thin layer of TIM (similar to how the stock TIM is applied) gave me the best results, around 3C cooler than the line and dot methods on average and seated properly everytime as opposed to the 2/5 with the other 2 methods


----------



## FragMasta75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OutOfBalanceOX*


i actually tried multiple methods multiple times with the h50 and found that spreading a thin layer of TIM (similar to how the stock TIM is applied) gave me the best results, around 3C cooler than the line and dot methods on average and seated properly everytime as opposed to the 2/5 with the other 2 methods


well im gonna try my H50 in an exhaust configuration with the stock TIM, then reseat it with AS5 in an intake config with the dot method and see the difference in temps. If the temps are good, ill keep it this way but if an exhaust config is better ill go back to that and try a different TIM method as well and we can see the results.


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


Post some pics?


Before pics are here: http://www.overclock.net/off-topic/3...l#post10034214

I'll take a couple of after pics tonight for you


----------



## ecaftermath

Here's a picture of my setup on the H50!


----------



## alchemik

I'll join just as soon as i finish building my new rig, i hate the fact that i have the H50 and CPU but no mobo yet... there just sitting in my room


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FragMasta75*


well im gonna try my H50 in an exhaust configuration with the stock TIM, then reseat it with AS5 in an intake config with the dot method and see the difference in temps. If the temps are good, ill keep it this way but if an exhaust config is better ill go back to that and try a different TIM method as well and we can see the results.


Don't forget AS5 has a 200 hour cure time so you can't really say for certain till then if your reseat had an effect.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Don't forget AS5 has a 200 hour cure time so you can't really say for certain till then if your reseat had an effect.


Eehhh I'm past my cure time and there was 0 difference.


----------



## FragMasta75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Don't forget AS5 has a 200 hour cure time so you can't really say for certain till then if your reseat had an effect.


Yeah, kinda forgot about that. haha. Test results might be a bit delayed gentlemen.


----------



## FragMasta75

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ecaftermath* 
Here's a picture of my setup on the H50!

is the fan and rad hooked up to a top exhaust port?


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FragMasta75* 
is the fan and rad hooked up to a top exhaust port?

That's what it appears to be.

Lookin good as well!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *digital_steve* 
Before pics are here: http://www.overclock.net/off-topic/3...l#post10034214

I'll take a couple of after pics tonight for you


haha cool, before and after pics for the win!

Glad you dropped your temps too!


----------



## FragMasta75

WTHbot said:


> That's what it appears to be.
> 
> Lookin good as well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah it does, it's got my brain churnin haha


----------



## WTHbot

FragMasta75 said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WTHbot*
> That's what it appears to be.
> 
> Lookin good as well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah it does, it's got my brain churnin haha
> 
> I've seen people exhaust out of their PSU's. xD


----------



## PCSarge

ive decided, while i was on vacation, that i may get extra long bolts, and make the front of my pc into an extra large "wind tunnel" and relocate my H50 rad to side exhaust, any thoughts?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
ive decided, while i was on vacation, that i may get extra long bolts, and make the front of my pc into an extra large "wind tunnel" and relocate my H50 rad to side exhaust, any thoughts?

Side exhaust? You have fans on your side panels?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
ive decided, while i was on vacation, that i may get extra long bolts, and make the front of my pc into an extra large "wind tunnel" and relocate my H50 rad to side exhaust, any thoughts?

I think your case HAF932 is made to intake on the side you might create negative pressure in your whole case if you took out the stock fan and put the H50 in it's place as exhaust. If you have a negative pressure case any nook or cranny that can suck in air will and thus dust with it, not a good thing.

If your not taking off the stock HAF side fan how/where are you planning to put the H50?


----------



## fastsite

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


Before pics are here: http://www.overclock.net/off-topic/3...l#post10034214

I'll take a couple of after pics tonight for you


that's a nice computer! could work on cable management but its still awesome


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fastsite* 
that's a nice computer! could work on cable management but its still awesome









Thanks
Cable management is done, but i was tied up last night (not literally sadly) and didn't get to take a photo. Will do this evening.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Yate Loons

Load Temp









Idle









Temps on previous fans from a 20 hour run... Might switch back :/









The Yate's are quieter though.


----------



## Ceadderman

No offense meant man but you're getting 39c Idle temp average and 53c Load. On an Intel CPU with Yate Loons?

I don't know which model you're using nor your ambient temp @ the time but seems to me that's damn good.

And by your own experience are quieter than the fan you were using b4 hand.

I'd stay with it. But that's just me. If your other fan registered better temps and you can live with louder fans then go with that. But me? I wouldn't change it back.









~Ceadder


----------



## akshep

I just got my H50 installed in a push/pull configuration and have some weird temps at idle. One core is at 21-23C and the other core is 29-31C. Is this normal? Right now im running ORTHOS, just hit the 30min mark and the temps are 40 in one core and 42 in the other. How are these temps? My house is 75 degrees F as of now and there is no OC.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah that's normal. One core is doing more than the other is all, so it will run hotter.









Nice temp average. What's your room temp? Nvm I shoulda read down further.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *akshep* 
I just got my H50 installed in a push/pull configuration and have some weird temps at idle. One core is at 21-23C and the other core is 29-31C. Is this normal? Right now im running ORTHOS, just hit the 30min mark and the temps are 40 in one core and 42 in the other. How are these temps? My house is 75 degrees F as of now and there is no OC.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
No offense meant man but you're getting 39c Idle temp average and 53c Load. On an Intel CPU with Yate Loons?

I don't know which model you're using nor your ambient temp @ the time but seems to me that's damn good.

And by your own experience are quieter than the fan you were using b4 hand.

I'd stay with it. But that's just me. If your other fan registered better temps and you can live with louder fans then go with that. But me? I wouldn't change it back.









~Ceadder









I think I like the quietness now







. Am I supposed to be looking at core temps only? I've always thought I should be paying attention to the chip itself.

I think I'm gonna lap this thing soon


----------



## navit

Has anybody used these fans for a push pull on their H50? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233048

I was thinking of replacing my 2 c4's :http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103060

What does ocn think???? about the same cfm, about the same dba, but lower rpms


----------



## Ceadderman

Really the R4s' only put out 70 cfm for 2000 RPM?







.

My Yates blow that number away @ 2000. Rated to 88 CFM.

Heck yeah dude if you want something quieter go with those Xigmas' or Go with the Yate Loon Mediums which are rated at 1600 RPM and 77 cfm.

I'm not trying to steer anyone into Yates. Just pointing them out as a cheap($4) alternative. Choices are good no?









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *navit* 
Has anybody used these fans for a push pull on their H50? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233048

I was thinking of replacing my 2 c4's :http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103060

What does ocn think???? about the same cfm, about the same dba, but lower rpms


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Really the R4s' only put out 70 cfm for 2000 RPM?







.

My Yates blow that number away @ 2000. Rated to 88 CFM.

Heck yeah dude if you want something quieter go with those Xigmas' or Go with the Yate Loon Mediums which are rated at 1600 RPM and 77 cfm.

I'm not trying to steer anyone into Yates. Just pointing them out as a cheap($4) alternative. Choices are good no?










~Ceadder









the R4's are reasonable quiet though, where the Yates sound like leafblowers


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *OutOfBalanceOX* 
the R4's are reasonable quiet though, where the Yates sound like leafblowers

Actually I had leaf blowers and the Yates are A LOT quieter.


----------



## navit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Really the R4s' only put out 70 cfm for 2000 RPM?







.

My Yates blow that number away @ 2000. Rated to 88 CFM.

Heck yeah dude if you want something quieter go with those Xigmas' or Go with the Yate Loon Mediums which are rated at 1600 RPM and 77 cfm.

I'm not trying to steer anyone into Yates. Just pointing them out as a cheap($4) alternative. Choices are good no?









~Ceadder









Choices are always good


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Actually I had leaf blowers and the Yates are A LOT quieter.

Yeah leaf blowers are quiet loud. . .


----------



## Burn3400

ill get some pics up of my H50 setup later on today.

I'm using it with a Phenom II x4 940 and currently have two medium speed yate loon's until i order some new fans. running the yates in push/pull with a shroud on the push side.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
Yeah leaf blowers are quiet loud. . .

'quiet loud' kinda cancel each other out? Oxymoron? Perhaps you meant *quite* loud?


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Actually I had leaf blowers and the Yates are A LOT quieter.

Oh did you have some 3k Ultra Kaze's too?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


Originally Posted by *superhead91* 
Oh did you have some 3k Ultra Kaze's too?









See my sig rig.







I DO have leaf blowers...lol


----------



## WTHbot

YouTube- Sanyo Denki 6000 RPM with home made 5V PWM Fan controller. Thanks bing! <--- Leaf Blowers, actualy these fans are used in the distruction of homes.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Demented* 
See my sig rig.







I DO have leaf blowers...lol

Lol... Yeah, my mom is never too thrilled when I turn on my rig.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


Originally Posted by *superhead91* 
Lol... Yeah, my mom is never too thrilled when I turn on my rig.









Well I live alone, and my window AC drowns out all the noise from them anyway.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Demented* 
Well I live alone, and my window AC drowns out all the noise from them anyway.









Yeah, when I'm immersed in a game I don't really notice them.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *superhead91* 
Oh did you have some 3k Ultra Kaze's too?









Actually my Sunon 3100 RPM fans were louder than the Kaze and I just replaced them with Yate Loons and the are very quiet compared to the Sunons.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
Yeah leaf blowers are quiet loud. . .

Quiet loud?


----------



## Ceadderman

My Yates are High Speeds. And I like them. Of course with the panels on you can hear them but not as loud as when the covers are off the sides of my Case.

I was running without the covers until I noticed this film of dust building up on the floor of my case. I put them back on. I mean why spend $40 for DEMCiflex filters if I'm gonna go doorless right?

Well anyway the Mediums are rated at 1600 and 77cfm which is what I prolly woulda gone for if I was worried about quiet. But my MoBo does just fine at regulating the temps and the sound by default.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *OutOfBalanceOX* 
the R4's are reasonable quiet though, where the Yates sound like leafblowers


----------



## Lumix

Can I be a part of the owners club if my H50 will be delivered to my house anywhere from now 'til 7pm?


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Quiet loud?









Oops.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lumix* 
Can I be a part of the owners club if my H50 will be delivered to my house anywhere from now 'til 7pm?

NO!


----------



## FragMasta75

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lumix* 
Can I be a part of the owners club if my H50 will be delivered to my house anywhere from now 'til 7pm?

Yeah, i dont think anyone is gonna beat you up over it.


----------



## Lumix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FragMasta75* 
Yeah, i dont think anyone is gonna beat you up over it.

Fantastic. I was planning on doing a [pull <------ push] setup, apparently that gets the best performance out of it. Correct me if I'm wrong?


----------



## Ceadderman

Holy crappola!
















Probably loud. But the sound was being splashed at us from the carpet being behind it which magnified the results.

Still... as much as I don't care about volume, I would think twice before putting those in my rig. I have to be able to think y'know.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
YouTube- Sanyo Denki 6000 RPM with home made 5V PWM Fan controller. Thanks bing! <--- Leaf Blowers, actualy these fans are used in the distruction of homes.


----------



## FragMasta75

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lumix* 
Fantastic. I was planning on doing a [pull <------ push] setup, apparently that gets the best performance out of it. Correct me if I'm wrong?

Many people have reported that push/pull with the H50 yields better results. Make sure you get a shroud or two in there to make them even better









Also, consider trying it out as both an exhaust or an intake configuration. From what I've read, people get 1-2c better as intake, but the warm air blows inside your case and can screw up your overall airflow. As exhaust, you may run a couple degrees hotter on the CPU, but all that warm air will be going out of your case as apposed to all over your other hardware. Both have their pro/cons, but it all comes down to what works best for you and your setup in the end.


----------



## Lumix

Alright well some black guy in a UPS truck just dropped it off. I'll post results


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lumix* 
Fantastic. I was planning on doing a [pull <------ push] setup, apparently that gets the best performance out of it. Correct me if I'm wrong?

http://martin.skinneelabs.com/Radiat...ng-Review.html

Pretty good guide right there. . .

Oh and if you didn't see it. . .

NO YOU CANNOT BE IN OUR CLUB!









jk.









Feel free to add yourself to our list on the OP!


----------



## FragMasta75

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lumix* 
Alright well some black guy in a UPS truck just dropped it off. I'll post results









Goodluck!


----------



## WTHbot

YouTube- San Ace Goodness Part II






























"One of the wires couldn't take the load and melted right into my finger."


----------



## Ceadderman

Not all adapters are created equal.









Anyone complainin about my Yates now?









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
YouTube- San Ace Goodness Part II































"One of the wires couldn't take the load and melted right into my finger."


----------



## supra_rz

guys : question :

Should i be worried about the H50 ? i really want to buy it but i am afraid if it stops working while my pc is on and *** up everything







i AM DESPERATE ON WHICH cpu cooler to buy







(((((( help !!!


----------



## Chicken Patty

There's no reason as to why it should stop working. Plus if it's a failure from the H50 Corsair replaces any equipment thy is damaged. On top of that the CPU SHOULD HAVE A AUTOMATIC shut down temperature in the BIOS to prevent damage when overheating.


----------



## brownn74

h50 ftmfw!


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
There's no reason as to why it should stop working. Plus if it's a failure from the H50 Corsair replaces any equipment thy is damaged. On top of that the CPU SHOULD HAVE A AUTOMATIC shut down temperature in the BIOS to prevent damage when overheating.

This.

+rep for usual information.


----------



## supra_rz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
There's no reason as to why it should stop working. Plus if it's a failure from the H50 Corsair replaces any equipment thy is damaged. On top of that the CPU SHOULD HAVE A AUTOMATIC shut down temperature in the BIOS to prevent damage when overheating.

I didn't know that . Did i send you a PM asking for a pic for the cpu cooler ?


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
There's no reason as to why it should stop working. Plus if it's a failure from the H50 Corsair replaces any equipment thy is damaged. On top of that the CPU SHOULD HAVE A AUTOMATIC shut down temperature in the BIOS to prevent damage when overheating.

NO Corsair does not and does not have to replace squat if you get them to thats because you have threatened lives and its like pulling teeth. Corsair is not obligated to do anything except replace the faulty H50.

I speak from experiance.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup. What CP said. Can't go wrong with the H50 bro.









~C.e.a.d.d.e.r.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
NO Corsair does not and does not have to replace squat if you get them to thats because you have threatend lives and its like pulling teeth. Corsair is not obligated to do anything except replace the faulty H50

Did you not see the one guy on the corsair forums that had a leak?

They replaced everything. . . He hardly had to fight.

I've had corsair replace a whole PSU because the fan was making a clicking noise.

I read a thread where all you had to do is ask for "Replacement Grommets" for the 800D case and they would ship them to you free of charge. Like 12 people got grommets.


----------



## supra_rz

those are my choices : Titan Fenrir , Spire Thermax Eclipse II , corsair h 50 , Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme ,Xigmatek SD1283 Balder
any recommendations welcome . money doesn't matter


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *supra_rz* 
those are my choices : Titan Fenrir , Spire Thermax Eclipse II , corsair h 50 , Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme ,Xigmatek SD1283 Balder
any recommendations welcome . money doesn't matter

I'd say the T.R.U.E. is the best cooler out of those, but I had it and I prefer my H50.

This thng is quiet and easy to instal. Ceader had a little problem but fixed it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Supes if I EVER steer you wrong, I'll send you a round trip ticket put you up in solid accommodations and let you give me a good rap in the beak for putting you out. If I won't run it, I won't push it. Period.









I gotta split I got traffic court in a half hour. Unfortunately.









~C.e.a.d.d.e.r.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *supra_rz* 
those are my choices : Titan Fenrir , Spire Thermax Eclipse II , corsair h 50 , Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme ,Xigmatek SD1283 Balder
any recommendations welcome . money doesn't matter


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
Did you not see the one guy on the corsair forums that had a leak?

They replaced everything. . . He hardly had to fight.

I've had corsair replace a whole PSU because the fan was making a clicking noise.

I read a thread where all you had to do is ask for "Replacement Grommets" for the 800D case and they would ship them to you free of charge. Like 12 people got grommets.

LOL OMG









I'am one of those guys and your in for a rude awakening







You better pray it don't leak. If your not religious now you will be








Don't get me started


----------



## supra_rz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Supes if I EVER steer you wrong, I'll send you a round trip ticket put you up in solid accommodations and let you give me a good rap in the beak for putting you out. If I won't run it, I won't push it. Period.









I gotta split I got traffic court in a half hour. Unfortunately.









~C.e.a.d.d.e.r.









hahaha man i will go with the h50 80 % , you trick me


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
LOL OMG









I'am one of those guys and your in for a rude awakening








Don't get me started

Everything I've done with their customer service has been in out and they replaced any and all things. . .

I'm pretty sure if I asked I could have had someone install the PSU for me. lol

We must have gotten a different customer service guy or section. My guy must have had a good day. . .


----------



## supra_rz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
I'd say the T.R.U.E. is the best cooler out of those, but I had it and I prefer my H50.

This thng is quiet and easy to instal. Ceader had a little problem but fixed it.

thanks mate


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
Everything I've done with their customer service has been in out and they replaced any and all things. . .

I'm pretty sure if I asked I could have had someone install the PSU for me. lol

We must have gotten a different customer service guy or section. My guy must have had a good day. . .

Ok look.. A PSU and over $1500.00 in damage are two completly different things. I was dealing with the corporate side of Corsair not some nobody in CS

Nuff said


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
Ok look.. A PSU and over $1500.00 in damage are two completly different things. I was dealing with the corporate side of Corsair not some nobody in CS

Nuff said

Actually they can and sometime will be similar

Bad PSU = worse then a leak sometimes.

But don't worry about that, cause my case was not one of those


----------



## Lumix

Hm. So its all set up. Thing is, I was expecting a large reduction in temp. On average I had around 46-52c on idle, and 56-65c on load. Now I have about 43c idle, and on 100% load it stays around 48-50c which is not much better. Any tips on making it work better?


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lumix* 
Hm. So its all set up. Thing is, I was expecting a large reduction in temp. On average I had around 46-52c on idle, and 56-65c on load. Now I have about 43c idle, and on 100% load it stays around 48-50c which is not much better. Any tips on making it work better?

What's your current set up?


----------



## Lumix

What do you mean by set up? How my fans are set up?


----------



## Lumix

Oh wow. Nevermind. I just updated my bios and there was a thermal sensor problem, cause now I'm seeing 33c on idle. Looks like my old heatsink wasn't as ****ty as I thought. Oh well. Time to overclock









Edit: sorry about the double post


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lumix* 
What do you mean by set up? How my fans are set up?

Yes sir.

Intake or Exhaust
Fans
Fan set up

And I know your case pretty damn well considering I'm using one based off of it right now.


----------



## Lumix

Well I had some trouble with the room. Right now I have a 92mm intake in the front, a 120mm intake on the side, 120mm exhaust on the top, and the 120mm radiator fan is pointed inwards, so thats an intake. The heat from that I think should go straight out from the top exhaust fan.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lumix* 
Well I had some trouble with the room. Right now I have a 92mm intake in the front, a 120mm intake on the side, 120mm exhaust on the top, and the 120mm radiator fan is pointed inwards, so thats an intake. The heat from that I think should go straight out from the top exhaust fan.

Just about how I have mine set up, and similar temps as well. . .


----------



## Lumix

Hm. Well it could be a bit lower than it is now. 35c is alright but I'd prefer it even in the 20s. I know its possible with the h50. On 100% so far the max temp it has hit is 41 but it swaps between 40 and 41 so it only increases by 5 or 6 degrees which is pretty good.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lumix*


Hm. Well it could be a bit lower than it is now. 35c is alright but I'd prefer it even in the 20s. I know its possible with the h50. On 100% so far the max temp it has hit is 41 but it swaps between 40 and 41 so it only increases by 5 or 6 degrees which is pretty good.












That's a really good way to mount your 92 mm fan when ever you get 120 for the front.

I know your case is set up just like mine.


----------



## Lumix

Here you can see my setup. The 92mm fan is where your front 120mm fan is. Also when I take my computer out of my desks little computer shelf thing my temp on 100% lowered to 37c/38c and its kinda just sitting like that so thats good.

Note: The horrible cable managment job


----------



## chris14029

What's the beat way to clean the radiator I live in s very dusty hous and the radiator is PACKED full of dust. I don't have a air can other wise I would use that. Thanks


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chris14029*


What's the beat way to clean the radiator I live in s very dusty hous and the radiator is PACKED full of dust. I don't have a air can other wise I would use that. Thanks


vacuum cleaner and a soft paint or tooth brush


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chris14029* 
What's the beat way to clean the radiator I live in s very dusty hous and the radiator is PACKED full of dust. I don't have a air can other wise I would use that. Thanks

swiffer duster.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lumix*


Here you can see my setup. The 92mm fan is where your front 120mm fan is. Also when I take my computer out of my desks little computer shelf thing my temp on 100% lowered to 37c/38c and its kinda just sitting like that so thats good.

Note: The horrible cable managment job










Clean those cables up!!

And get a new PSU. . . That's the most important part of your system and your entrusting it with Rocketfail?


----------



## Ceadderman

Man, I'm so OCD I can't even power up to test my new rigs w/o cable management. Gonna suck to tear it all back out to sleeve everything. But gonna be oh so cool to be done with everything but the Major Case Mod.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## AdvanSuper

Oh I also added an filterright filter on my push/pull setup









We'll see how it holds up to dust.


----------



## Lumix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
Clean those cables up!!

And get a new PSU. . . That's the most important part of your system and your entrusting it with Rocketfail?

I've had it for 2 years no problem. Is it that bad? D:


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lumix*


I've had it for 2 years no problem. Is it that bad? D:


I don't know. . .

The problem with Power supplies is that you can't know if they are bad unless you read reviews. . .

They have this thing called Ripple Protection. . . And the thing about Ripple is that you don't feel it or see it, but it's slowly killing your parts. One day you'll turn them on and it will be all burned out. All PSU's ripple just some ripple much much more.

Some PSU's have bad caps, which could lead to over heating or even explosions. I'm not kidding.









Some have bad voltage regulation which will make stable overclocks harder to achieve. . .

Lots of things. Power supplies are important for the safety of everything in your system you owe them a good power supply.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Oh I also added an filterright filter on my push/pull setup









We'll see how it holds up to dust.


Put the cat in front of it!


----------



## AdvanSuper

I don't have a cat :/


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lumix*


I've had it for 2 years no problem. Is it that bad? D:


that PSU is horrible i wouldn't trust any modern machine with it.

As for the cables... blah that is no issue... only do cable management if you feel like it, if you had many fans expecting for ventilation then on that side... yes do some good cable management... but as computer as in survival with or without cable management... it will live pretty much the same no matter what

management is for looks and to improve the air flow ventilation


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


I don't have a cat :/


Go steal one?


Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


that PSU is horrible i wouldn't trust any modern machine with it.

As for the cables... blah that is no issue... only do cable management if you feel like it, if you had many fans expecting for ventilation then on that side... yes do some good cable management... but as computer as in survival with or without cable management... it will live pretty much the no matter what

management is for looks and to improve the air flow ventilation


Cable Management is first and formost for airflow. If it looks nice then that's secondary.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


Go steal one?


Cable Management is first and formost for airflow. If it looks nice then that's secondary.


no point of quoting me I clearly mentioned Air flow 2 times & only once at the end is when i mentioned looks... so shhhhhhhhh


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


haha cool, before and after pics for the win!

Glad you dropped your temps too!


Tidied up the cables and only running a single shroud


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


Tidied up the cables and only running a single shroud


Gotta love that case. . . And holy cow THAT is a huge video card.


----------



## sora1607

My pushing silverstone fan just died on me







(. Thinking of getting gentletyphoon. Now I got an extra fan lying there. Anyone have any guide on making a shroud for my gentletyphoon pushing? Will it make much of a difference if I have a pair of this push/pull in comparison to one GT and the stock corsair fan? Oh and if I were to spray paint the blades, will that reduce RPM and CFM seeing how the blades are heavier?


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


Gotta love that case. . . And holy cow THAT is a huge video card.


The case is nice, but it isn't huge... hence the video card looking huge (i had to move the hard drive bay down to fit it in).


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sora1607*


My pushing silverstone fan just died on me







(. Thinking of getting gentletyphoon. Now I got an extra fan lying there. Anyone have any guide on making a shroud for my gentletyphoon pushing? Will it make much of a difference if I have a pair of this push/pull in comparison to one GT and the stock corsair fan? Oh and if I were to spray paint the blades, will that reduce RPM and CFM seeing how the blades are heavier?


No guides needed for shrouds, just cut off the fan from the middle of your silverstone fan that just died & there you go a Shroud


----------



## Lumix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


that PSU is horrible i wouldn't trust any modern machine with it.


I better get a new one then. More money to spend


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lumix*


I better get a new one then. More money to spend










I did a little searching for a review on your PSu. . .

It's okay at best, I wouldn't say it was going to explode but the ripple correction on it is kinda bad. . .So yeah it's probably slowly choking the life out of your hardware.


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


I did a little searching for a review on your PSu. . .

It's okay at best, I wouldn't say it was going to explode but the ripple correction on it is kinda bad. . .So yeah it's probably slowly choking the life out of your hardware.


http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/556

Ripple is within spec at the limit, and he's nowhere close to the limit. That PSU is totally fine. Not the greatest unit but its not going to harm his rig.


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ljason8eg*


http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/556

Ripple is within spec at the limit, and he's nowhere close to the limit. That PSU is totally fine. Not the greatest unit but its not going to harm his rig.


its says $165 for that junk psu.
i tot it is only like $40~$60 dollars psu.


----------



## Lumix

Yeah it really shouldn't be the price that it is. I got it for 60$ becuase best buy had it over the wrong price tag and when it came up as 140$ or whatever at the register I was like huh? So they checked the shelf and they gave me it for the price on that tag. I forgot to mention the first year i owned it it went out on me but the warrenty covered me so i got a new one. As long as it doesn't mess my computer up i don't care then. I'll probably end up getting a corsair.


----------



## Ceadderman

Just nip off the bars the fan plops out.







Viola! Shroud.









~Ceadder


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


its says *$165* for that junk psu.
i tot it is only like $40~$60 dollars psu.


Yeah I was thinking the same thing. I guess it was launched at that price which would make sense if it were 2-3 years ago when it launched. You know when 800+ PSU's cost like $230

Oh and about the ripple, it might be within passable range but by todays safe standards it's pretty large.

Rocketfish 700w

Antec Truepower New 750w

As you can see newer power supplies ripple is incredibly lower.

If I had to suggest any power supply for him I'd sayCorsair 400Cx so he wouldn't have to spend so much money.


----------



## chris14029

Its been to long since i have really messed with any of my overclocking, let alone my h50 
. i have been learning how to drive. any who i cleaned it out to day and realized how much i hate texas in summer. my old dual core is idling at 40c. its at 4ghz but still. 
any who again. i need new screws that the h50 comes with. the little black ones. can any one post a link or tell me where i can get some? thanks
p.s. i know i can get them at a hard wear store vut what size are they?


----------



## sora1607

Thanks guys. So the shroud is just the square thing surrounding the blades? How will I get a screw that can go through 2 of those? Or do I have 2 screws sticking the shroud to the rad and then 2 other ones to stick the shroud and the fan together? And anyone have any suggestion on the gentletyphoon + corsair pair? Is it worth getting 2 gentletyphoons over that?


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sora1607*


Thanks guys. So the shroud is just the square thing surrounding the blades? How will I get a screw that can go through 2 of those? Or do I have 2 screws sticking the shroud to the rad and then 2 other ones to stick the shroud and the fan together? And anyone have any suggestion on the gentletyphoon + corsair pair? Is it worth getting 2 gentletyphoons over that?


get the screw size 6-32 with 2.5" long.


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lumix*


Yeah it really shouldn't be the price that it is. I got it for 60$ becuase best buy had it over the wrong price tag and when it came up as 140$ or whatever at the register I was like huh? So they checked the shelf and they gave me it for the price on that tag. I forgot to mention the first year i owned it it went out on me but the warrenty covered me so i got a new one. As long as it doesn't mess my computer up i don't care then. I'll probably end up getting a corsair.


corsair HX650W is on sale on newegg right now. $79.99 after rebate.
it is a really good price


----------



## Ceadderman

6-32 thread pitch. I don't know the stock length but you can get up to 3" bolts from Lowe's under $3 for a 5 pack with nuts. If you get the 3" and plan to cut them short then get a pack of 6-32 hex nuts to use as locknuts. Or get the type with nylon inserts in them to keep them from vibrating loose. That shouldn't matter though cause you're gonna fudge the thread at the end when you nip them short. The locknut is only to keep the bolt from threading into the fins of the Radiator anyway.









~Ceadder


----------



## sora1607

Nice suggestions. I never knew I could buy these same screws with longer length from a store. Well, I'm gonna try out my method of using 2 screws for shroud to rad and 2 screws for shroud to fan. Hopefully that'll work and hoping this "shroud" idea would help knock off a degree or two


----------



## WTHbot

HAHA I didn't buy larger screws to use my shroud. . .

I didn't have any around so I cut out the outside holes with a knife. Then I slipped my screws on in so they would go through both casings ad into the rad. Really innovative I know.


----------



## digital_steve

i couldn't get longer screws in that thread, so i got a tap and die and tapped the holes in the radiator to take M4 thread bolts.
5 minute job


----------



## Lumix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


corsair HX650W is on sale on newegg right now. $79.99 after rebate.
it is a really good price


Yeah but I'm poor.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lumix*


Yeah but I'm poor.


This is Really worth mentioning.

Cause it's all you need, it's great quality and it's pretty cheap.


----------



## Lumix

I'd prefer something with at least 2x PCIE connectors for when I get a new graphics card. My current PSU should be fine until i get like $100 for something decent.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lumix*


I'd prefer something with at least 2x PCIE connectors for when I get a new graphics card. My current PSU should be fine until i get like $100 for something decent.


Ididn't even see that. . .

Reason why I posted it is because it would be a worthy upgrade for your current set up. And it wouldn't break your bank.


----------



## ecaftermath

Anyone know if I have to pay to ship to Corsair for RMA? Since Corsair made no mention that they will send me a prepaid label..


----------



## Lumix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


Ididn't even see that. . .

Reason why I posted it is because it would be a worthy upgrade for your current set up. And it wouldn't break your bank.


I appreciate the suggestions


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ecaftermath*


Anyone know if I have to pay to ship to Corsair for RMA? Since Corsair made no mention that they will send me a prepaid label..


You probably do and they pay for shipping back. Worst case scenario just call them up.


----------



## chris14029

6-32 sounds good


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


Ididn't even see that. . .

Reason why I posted it is because it would be a worthy upgrade for your current set up. And it wouldn't break your bank.


the arguements over psus.....cmon now boys, everyone uses what they can afford,if he can only afford best buy brand, dont worry about him, worry about your rigs instead


----------



## TheLastPriest

So I sped my pump up, the heat wave passed and got a pair of R4 Blade masters and im now idling at 37Â°c-41Â°c. Much more pleased with my H50 again, though I still want to go full WC loop


----------



## ttully77

Add me? Everything looks much better now by the way.










http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...d-these-2.html : /


----------



## kamilowski

do i install the h50 with pipes down or up? seems like its a bit of a twist to install them down as per user manual...


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kamilowski* 
do i install the h50 with pipes down or up? seems like its a bit of a twist to install them down as per user manual...

It can be installed either way.


----------



## Demented

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


It can be installed either way.


Wait for it...wait for it...


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demented*


Wait for it...wait for it...










Lol... I thought the exact same thing...


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kamilowski*


do i install the h50 with pipes down or up? seems like its a bit of a twist to install them down as per user manual...


The Manual does not specify but there is a preference... as can be imagined there is a reason why a rather "simple" CPU cooler has thousands of posts...


----------



## dude120

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lumix*


I'd prefer something with at least 2x PCIE connectors for when I get a new graphics card. My current PSU should be fine until i get like $100 for something decent.


Your graphics card should have come with pci to single or dual molex connectors


----------



## ttully77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ttully77*


Add me? Everything looks much better now by the way.










http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...d-these-2.html : /



Are my coils alright? I feel like they are very tight.


----------



## ttully77

Could someone please give me a link to buy the screws for the H50 and 120mm fan?


----------



## digital_steve

Get a tap and tap the radiator for whatever screws you like

Hoses up or down doesn't matter (apart from pump life and that's allegedly).
I personally have the hoses down at the radiator and the hoses up at the pump (i.e. corsair logo upside down over the CPU). Never had a problem either way.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ttully77*


Could someone please give me a link to buy the screws for the H50 and 120mm fan?


Here

Any place like lowes/home depot etc. should have 6-32 screws take one of the H50 screws with you to size them up get the right length. You might consider adding a shroud or something too and thus need longer than stock screws.

Find the Lowes near you.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ttully77*


Could someone please give me a link to buy the screws for the H50 and 120mm fan?


They are 6/32 threaded screws just like the HDD's. You can find those at your local hardware stores, just get the length you need.


----------



## AdvanSuper

i7 930 CPU itself is cooler than the cores?

H50 Push/Pull + Shroud - stock speeds - Yate Loon 120mm High Speed fans (if the info was needed, also aware the pump isn't fully at 1400 but I'm pretty sure I set it to manual in the bios at 100%...)


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Demented* 
Wait for it...wait for it...










Quote:


Originally Posted by *superhead91* 
Lol... I thought the exact same thing...









Am I missing something here?


----------



## Magus2727

there are lots of theory or reasons why some think one way or another is better. People on this forum have it both ways and both have said it works better or have gotten better temps when changing from 1 to another... it does not matter in the sachem of things the small difference that is seen can be operator differences and not changes in the pump orientation.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
there are lots of theory or reasons why some think one way or another is better. People on this forum have it both ways and both have said it works better or have gotten better temps when changing from 1 to another... it does not matter in the sachem of things the small difference that is seen can be operator differences and not changes in the pump orientation.

This is how I feel. . . the only advantage I see with upside down mounting is maybe right side up could possibly trap bubbles. . .But really I doub't I'd see any performance increase.


----------



## kamilowski

the picture in the manual shows the pipes at bottom so i did it that way.

what is the " shroud" you guys keep mentioning?


----------



## Muntey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kamilowski* 
what is the " shroud" you guys keep mentioning?

A shorud is basicly a spacer between the pushing fan and the radiator. It decreases "deadspots" where the fan cannot actually blow any air. You can make the out of an old fan, just gut it out so you just have the outside rim bit, and attach it between your radiator and pusher.


----------



## kamilowski

ah that's a great idea. thanks for that.


----------



## Muntey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kamilowski* 
ah that's a great idea. thanks for that.

What is your current fan set-up?

Oh and thanks for the rep


----------



## hellr4isEr

hoping to use this cooler in a silverstone gd05b htpc case because with an optical drive installed only a low profile cooler will work.. and i want a good cooler thats quiet..

does anyone know if the combination would work well together? any help would be great..


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hellr4isEr* 
hoping to use this cooler in a silverstone gd05b htpc case because with an optical drive installed only a low profile cooler will work.. and i want a good cooler thats quiet..

does anyone know if the combination would work well together? any help would be great..

As long as it has a 120mm fan mount with at least 12" away from it you should be fine.

The H50 fits all the other requirement.


----------



## hellr4isEr

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
As long as it has a 120mm fan mount with at least 12" away from it you should be fine.

The H50 fits all the other requirement.

12" away from it meaning there should be a fan mount 12" away from cpu cooler because of the tubing? Also how much space does the fan take up in a push config.. or w/e is the best setup without mods (i kno nothing about watercooling nor do i need this setup to be extreme)


----------



## Ceadderman

I think I should post this info in case he's going to mount the H50 in his 5.25 cage.

My Radiator setup is in my 5.25 cage with two optical drives. But they are mounted lower than 1st slot. I have them in 3rd and 4th slots of the 6 slot setup. It BARELY fits. And that's because mine is horisontally mounted. I would have lost 3rd slot as well if it were mounted upright.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
As long as it has a 120mm fan mount with at least 12" away from it you should be fine.

The H50 fits all the other requirement.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
i7 930 CPU itself is cooler than the cores?

H50 Push/Pull + Shroud - stock speeds - Yate Loon 120mm High Speed fans (if the info was needed, also aware the pump isn't fully at 1400 but I'm pretty sure I set it to manual in the bios at 100%...)









bump


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hellr4isEr* 
12" away from it meaning there should be a fan mount 12" away from cpu cooler because of the tubing? Also how much space does the fan take up in a push config.. or w/e is the best setup without mods (i kno nothing about watercooling nor do i need this setup to be extreme)

Together the whole fan+rad is like 40-55mm by 120mm. Any set up will be fine as long as you have good airflow andyour not messing that up.


----------



## Warfare

Add me to the club.


----------



## kamilowski

Muntey - my current fans are 2x Noctua NF-S12B FLX 120mm. I haven't finished building the computer yet so I don't know how they will do


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Warfare*











Add me to the club.


You can add your self to the front page on the google spread sheet.


----------



## pm-roor

quick question semi-related (but not really) to my h50. i have my side fan on exhaust thinking it be better for keeping dust/dog hair out of my case but i recently moved my case onto my desk next to the window for better cooling and less dust/dog hair getting into my system.

so should i keep it as exhaust or flip it around for intake to take more advantage of the cooler air from outside my window to keep my card cool since it almost directly parallel to my card?

thanks.

pic provided to show case set up


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pm-roor*


quick question semi-related (but not really) to my h50. i have my side fan on exhaust thinking it be better for keeping dust/dog hair out of my case but i recently moved my case onto my desk next to the window for better cooling and less dust/dog hair getting into my system.

so should i keep it as exhaust or flip it around for intake to take more advantage of the cooler air from outside my window to keep my card cool since it almost directly parallel to my card?

thanks.

pic provided to show case set up


You should definitely have that as intake. I would guess you have the front fan intake and the H50 as exhaust? If that is correct only having the front as intake your creating a negative pressure case which makes it so any crack/opening your case has will suck in air and will actually suck in more dust. If you just have your side fan as intake as it should be you will create a positive pressure case so it pushes air out of all the cracks and openings and you don't suck any dust in.

If your really worried about dust buy some filters. I personally suggest DEMCiflex filters. I just got some myself special order for my side fan(220mm) directly from the manufacturer but you can order standard sizes from other places. HERE is a link to some filters. they are a little expensive but you just wash them off and they last forever.


----------



## dezerteagle323

just got mine and I'm pleased... changed from a TRUE Black (didn't want all that weight hanging off mobo) to this with push/pull tricools... idle temps dropped from 39 to 34, prime95 load temps dropped from 81 to 74 .. so a noticeable difference and a lot lighter!


----------



## HatesFury

So i'm apparenlty quite late to the party, but i just started looking around at water kits since the ambient in my house is murdering my air cooler...

Long story short, my upstairs stays as high as 75-80f, and with a mini-typhoon on my AM2 6000, i'm flirting with 60C on the proc, and i hate it being nearly that high, i see a performance hit once i start reaching those temp.

Can anyone give me an idea of what kind of temps the H-50 should be able to accomplish with a 6000? I really don't want to spend $65-75 on this cooler if i'm still going to be running 55C constant while gaming.

Thanks,


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HatesFury* 
So i'm apparenlty quite late to the party, but i just started looking around at water kits since the ambient in my house is murdering my air cooler...

Long story short, my upstairs stays as high as 75-80f, and with a mini-typhoon on my AM2 6000, i'm flirting with 60C on the proc, and i hate it being nearly that high, i see a performance hit once i start reaching those temp.

Can anyone give me an idea of what kind of temps the H-50 should be able to accomplish with a 6000? I really don't want to spend $65-75 on this cooler if i'm still going to be running 55C constant while gaming.

Thanks,

I have a newer PII 965BE that use to run hot too. I have my temps now down to 1-2c above ambient at idle and full load in the 40's. Even full blown water cooling you still have to take into account your ambient temps unless your using liquid nitrogen or something of the like you won't get below your ambient temps for idle let alone load. If your at 55c full load with your AM2 6000 that is right at the limit where I would run it if your keep it going 24/7 that is that is not a bad temp at all. I got the H50 because at full load with a small OC I was getting 63c+ which is where I have my PC auto shutdown to save the CPU.


----------



## HatesFury

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
I have a newer PII 965BE that use to run hot too. I have my temps now down to 1-2c above ambient at idle and full load in the 40's. Even full blown water cooling you still have to take into account your ambient temps unless your using liquid nitrogen or something of the like you won't get below your ambient temps for idle let alone load. If your at 55c full load with your AM2 6000 that is right at the limit where I would run it if your keep it going 24/7 that is that is not a bad temp at all. I got the H50 because at full load with a small OC I was getting 63c+ which is where I have my PC auto shutdown to save the CPU.

No i understand that ambient affects everything, but a mini-typhoon really isn't enough for a 6000, and high ambient is just beating it to a pulp...

My roommate is running a 5500BE with a full water kit and 320rad, and runs 30C under load... I'm running 55-60C unload load with air cooling... it's a combination...

My real question is do you think that the H50 will outperform a mini-typhoon significantly... IE i'd like to see load down to 40-45C, do you think that big of a jump is possible going from mini-typhoon to a H50 w\\push\\pull exhast fans?


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HatesFury* 
No i understand that ambient affects everything, but a mini-typhoon really isn't enough for a 6000, and high ambient is just beating it to a pulp...

My roommate is running a 5500BE with a full water kit and 320rad, and runs 30C under load... I'm running 55-60C unload load with air cooling... it's a combination...

My real question is do you think that the H50 will outperform a mini-typhoon significantly... IE i'd like to see load down to 40-45C, do you think that big of a jump is possible going from mini-typhoon to a H50 w\\push\\pull exhast fans?


here is my question what are you talking about Regular Load or Full Max Load?

any day an H50 beats allot of air coolers... just not mines lol


----------



## HatesFury

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
here is my question what are you talking about Regular Load or Full Max Load?

any day an H50 beats allot of air coolers... just not mines lol

regular load... when i say underload, i mean gaming...


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HatesFury* 
regular load... when i say underload, i mean gaming...

gaming (depending of the game, some are gpu intensive, others are cpu/gpu intensive).. if its games like CODMW2 or BBC2 cpu temps are low 40's with no air conditioner(ambients of 80F).... with the AC on, it should stay in the 30's or lower

regular load.... very cooled







no numbers are needed to be mentioned


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HatesFury* 
No i understand that ambient affects everything, but a mini-typhoon really isn't enough for a 6000, and high ambient is just beating it to a pulp...

My roommate is running a 5500BE with a full water kit and 320rad, and runs 30C under load... I'm running 55-60C unload load with air cooling... it's a combination...

My real question is do you think that the H50 will outperform a mini-typhoon significantly... IE i'd like to see load down to 40-45C, do you think that big of a jump is possible going from mini-typhoon to a H50 w\\push\\pull exhast fans?

I am under full load not just gaming running Prime95 with a 3.8Ghz OC(from 3.4) and I stay in the 40's for my temps.

I am using push/pull with two shrouds and have it as intake in the front of my case though. As exhaust on the back the best I could get was 49c full load.


----------



## Magus2727

Just gutted two old Thermaltake fans and got them all nice and pretty using a Dremel and using a thick epoxy to fill in the holes from LED's... will put them on during some point and time from now and Monday... lets see if it does any thing to my temps.


----------



## HatesFury

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
gaming (depending of the game, some are gpu intensive, others are cpu/gpu intensive).. if its games like CODMW2 or BBC2 cpu temps are low 40's with no air conditioner(ambients of 80F).... with the AC on, it should stay in the 30's or lower

regular load.... very cooled







no numbers are needed to be mentioned


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
I am under full load not just gaming running Prime95 with a 3.8Ghz OC(from 3.4) and I stay in the 40's for my temps.

I am using push/pull with two shrouds and have it as intake in the front of my case though. As exhaust on the back the best I could get was 49c full load.

Exactly the kind of info i was looking for, guess i'll make one of these my next purchase... The idea of front mounting sounds good, and since my case is only a mid tower i should have the slack needed (agree or disagree?)

My 4870 is already louder than my mini\yphoon's fan, so i'm looking for fans with good flow and a moderate noise level (messed around and bought a "vaccum motor" once... don't wana make that mistake again) so anyone have a reccomendation for 2 moderaly price, moderate airflow, moderate DBA fans to setup the push\\pull with?

Also... where can i buy screws long enough to setup a 3x120 stack







, also a strengthening bracket, if one exists.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HatesFury* 
Exactly the kind of info i was looking for, guess i'll make one of these my next purchase... The idea of front mounting sounds good, and since my case is only a mid tower i should have the slack needed (agree or disagree?)

My 4870 is already louder than my mini\yphoon's fan, so i'm looking for fans with good flow and a moderate noise level (messed around and bought a "vaccum motor" once... don't wana make that mistake again) so anyone have a reccomendation for 2 moderaly price, moderate airflow, moderate DBA fans to setup the push\\pull with?

Also... where can i buy screws long enough to setup a 3x120 stack







, also a strengthening bracket, if one exists.

Yes I have a bigger mid tower and it fits all the way in the front of my case just fine.

For fans I am using two Scyth GentleTyphoons AP15 fans(1850rpm) fans and two 25mm shrouds.


----------



## HatesFury

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Yes I have a bigger mid tower and it fits all the way in the front of my case just fine.

For fans I am using two Scyth GentleTyphoons AP15 fans(1850rpm) fans and two 25mm shrouds.

Where is a good place to order from?


----------



## daito

new member in the club


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HatesFury* 
Where is a good place to order from?

Newegg


----------



## pm-roor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


You should definitely have that as intake. I would guess you have the front fan intake and the H50 as exhaust? If that is correct only having the front as intake your creating a negative pressure case which makes it so any crack/opening your case has will suck in air and will actually suck in more dust. If you just have your side fan as intake as it should be you will create a positive pressure case so it pushes air out of all the cracks and openings and you don't suck any dust in.

If your really worried about dust buy some filters. I personally suggest DEMCiflex filters. I just got some myself special order for my side fan(220mm) directly from the manufacturer but you can order standard sizes from other places. HERE is a link to some filters. they are a little expensive but you just wash them off and they last forever.


my H50 is intake and i have a front fan as exhaust. but i guess either way for cool air wouldnt hurt and it would make it positive pressure inside


----------



## Ragsters

For those of you who have a Silverstone TJ07 was it hard for you to install the H50 with this case?


----------



## AdvanSuper

Ok stock speed temps before lapping

Idle









Load









Stock Idle lapped


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Ok stock speed temps before lapping
















Where is max load of lapped?

seems very nice bro


----------



## AdvanSuper

Busy at the moment lol.. Will get it up ASAP.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Load lapped


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Load lapped









very nice... also what Thermal Paste was used (as well what was used before for the un-lapped)... currently what settings on your CPU... whats the current Ambient in the room








that would be pretty helpful for users of your same chip


----------



## AdvanSuper

Ambient is around 70-75F, Shin Etsu G751 was used before AND after, Yate Loon 120mm Fans in push/pull+shroud as stated previously in this thread, my voltage is actually up a bit from stock voltage (forgot to set it back), stock speeds 2.8Ghz.


----------



## AdvanSuper




----------



## Ceadderman

Ooooohhh purty purty.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


----------



## AdvanSuper

I think it's definitely worth the work for just about a 10-12c drop compared to my previous temps.


----------



## ecaftermath

My H50 is really heating up!

It idles at 48-50C and loads up to 85C!! My ambient temp is 28-30C, but still, way too hot!

And the damn buzzing sound is not helping either.


----------



## Ceadderman

You got an air bubble in it yo. Tap it a few times at the outlet fitting. If it continues to back itself up check to see if there is a reason it's doing this. It could be that your header point is fluctuating your H50 or it could be how you have the unit set up.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ecaftermath* 
My H50 is really heating up!

It idles at 48-50C and loads up to 85C!! My ambient temp is 28-30C, but still, way too hot!

And the damn buzzing sound is not helping either.


----------



## PCSarge

or it could be because ceadder looked at your post








lol im jk,he may be right, or the pump may be faulty o.o
god knows







we dont


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ecaftermath* 
My H50 is really heating up!

It idles at 48-50C and loads up to 85C!! My ambient temp is 28-30C, but still, way too hot!

And the damn buzzing sound is not helping either.









I believe I told you before if you setup an RMA with Corsair they will replace it no questions asked.


----------



## ecaftermath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
I believe I told you before if you setup an RMA with Corsair they will replace it no questions asked.

Yeah I already did received a RMA #. I'm just waiting for all my water cooling parts first. I don' really want to have to go through the trouble to set up my TRUE again and then disassemble it after.


----------



## rheicel

Any idea why my temp reading is odd on all 4 cores?
Core 0: 37
Core 1: 24
Core 2: 31
Core 3: 37

I was using Core temp and real tem. Both shows the same weird reading. I was just wondering about a 13deg difference between core 1 and the otehr 2 cores.

And by the way, this is for my System 2!

Thanks.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rheicel* 
Any idea why my temp reading is odd on all 4 cores?
Core 0: 37
Core 1: 24
Core 2: 31
Core 3: 37

I was using Core temp and real tem. Both shows the same weird reading. I was just wondering about a 13deg difference between core 1 and the otehr 2 cores.

And by the way, this is for my System 2!

Thanks.

Your cores use only certain ones at a time. So one will be at 0%, and 2 or 3 will be 10-20%.

You always have differences cause your computer is always computing something.


----------



## ecaftermath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
Your cores use only certain ones at a time. So one will be at 0%, and 2 or 3 will be 10-20%.

You always have differences cause your computer is always computing something.

But what if they're all at 0%?


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
I think it's definitely worth the work for just about a 10-12c drop compared to my previous temps.

10-12c drop from lapping??? proof please??


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ecaftermath* 
Yeah I already did received a RMA #. I'm just waiting for all my water cooling parts first. I don' really want to have to go through the trouble to set up my TRUE again and then disassemble it after.









I requested for an advanced replacement then sent mine in after.. temps are still higher than average though.. 4ghz @ 1.27v and one core goes up to 82c


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ThumperSD* 
10-12c drop from lapping??? proof please??

See previous pages


----------



## AdvanSuper

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...l#post10116787

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...l#post10117077

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...l#post10118040

Before / After

Idle
BF - AF
48 - 38 = 10c
46 - 35 = 11c
48 - 38 = 10c
48 - 38 = 10c

Load
BF - AF
65 - 53 = 12c
63 - 51 = 12c
63 - 51 = 12c
63 - 51 = 12c


----------



## FragMasta75

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 









Dude, how did you do that? Enlighten me.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FragMasta75* 
Dude, how did you do that? Enlighten me.

Sand paper









Grit
800 - Start
1000
1500
2000 - Finish

I followed a CPU lapping guide mixed with some other guide, was a combination of dry and wet sanding. And I just moved up the grits as I seen fit after inspection.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Great job on the lapping superadvan


----------



## FragMasta75

If I send you mine, can you do it? haha

I don't feel comfortable taking on something like that. Especially since the surface being level is far more important than how shiny it is.


----------



## AdvanSuper

I just used a ruler since it has a flat edge to see how flat it was. It's not that hard to do. For each grit run the heatsink up and down 30 times (counting the up and down motion as one) then rotate 90 degrees again 30 times and repeat until you've made a full rotation. When starting with the lowest grit is when you should pay attention to flatness since it's the coarsest and will do the most work. The finer grits are for smoothness, evenness and finish.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ecaftermath* 
But what if they're all at 0%?









There never all 0%.

You also need to understand that CPU sensors are usually inaccurate.


----------



## swordfish666

*Since this is the right place, I just wanted to ask which cooler performs better on AMD Phenom II X4 955, C2.*

*Corsair H50 or *Cooler Master V10 ???

If you have experience with this coolers on this CPU, please enlighten me.

Thank you.


----------



## Ceadderman

To ell with that. You should be asking why go with the V10 when it limits the choices of RAM I can have. That V10 limits you to RAM that is 40mm tall. I wouldn't be able to run 8Gigs or couldn't run my Dominators under the V10.

But if you want to limit this to which is better the H50 is better imho.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *swordfish666*


*Since this is the right place, I just wanted to ask which cooler performs better on AMD Phenom II X4 955, C2.*

*Corsair H50 or *Cooler Master V10 ???

If you have experience with this coolers on this CPU, please enlighten me.

Thank you.


----------



## antipesto93

i know this is really and age old question, but i just cant find a definitive answer.

Is It worth swapping my megahalem for a H50?


----------



## Jeffro422

Quote:



Originally Posted by *antipesto93*


i know this is really and age old question, but i just cant find a definitive answer.

Is It worth swapping my megahalem for a H50?


There is no definitive answer, looking at multiple setups of people with different fans on their H50 or Mega, people with push/pull setups on either cooler makes a difference.

In different tests each one has managed to edge out the other and they've always been close in performance. You might spend more money getting better fans for either application so original cost isn't always a factor either.

I personally didn't like my Dark Knight cooler because it was a giant tower, the Mega is even bigger and heavier and that's is a lot of strain on the motherboard for me when I move my computer around a lot.

So personal preference, you can have the all-star of the air cooling or the entry water cooler with similar and sometimes better performance.


----------



## swordfish666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


To ell with that. You should be asking why go with the V10 when it limits the choices of RAM I can have. That V10 limits you to RAM that is 40mm tall. I wouldn't be able to run 8Gigs or couldn't run my Dominators under the V10.

But if you want to limit this to which is better the H50 is better imho.









~Ceadder










Thank you. Actually, RAM limitation is not a problem for me since I own short-in-height OCZs.







What cofuses me is some people saying H50 doesn't perform well on AMDs and V10 having TEC. But, thank you again for your answer.


----------



## Photograph

Add me to the club as I put one into my MOTY entry with a shroud and the rad being mounted to the exterior of the case:


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


I just used a ruler since it has a flat edge to see how flat it was. It's not that hard to do. For each grit run the heatsink up and down 30 times (counting the up and down motion as one) then rotate 90 degrees again 30 times and repeat until you've made a full rotation. When starting with the lowest grit is when you should pay attention to flatness since it's the coarsest and will do the most work. The finer grits are for smoothness, evenness and finish.


+rep for this post


----------



## 4x4n

Quote:



Originally Posted by *antipesto93*


i know this is really and age old question, but i just cant find a definitive answer.

Is It worth swapping my megahalem for a H50?


I got to say no. I just picked up a H50 a couple of weeks ago from the Tiger Direct deal for 54.99 after rebate. Swapped it with my Mega and got about 5 degrees higher temps, even with 2 gentle typhoons in push pull. Plus the mounting system on these is just plain awful. Haven't decided if I'm going to keep it or not.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *4x4n*


I got to say no. I just picked up a H50 a couple of weeks ago from the Tiger Direct deal for 54.99 after rebate. Swapped it with my Mega and got about 5 degrees higher temps, even with 2 gentle typhoons in push pull. Plus the mounting system on these is just plain awful. Haven't decided if I'm going to keep it or not.


Weird, at first I had the same results but then after some testing and tweaking of the H50 I ended up getting about 4-5Âºc better than the Mega.


----------



## swordfish666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*












Is this real or is this what I think it is; Photoshop.







As far as I know, it is impossible to polish a copper base as much as this one. Sorry if I'm wrong. Just took my attention.







(The picture is blurred too much for a short-range shot and if you see the properties section of the picture in Windows, you'll see what I mean.)


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *swordfish666*


Is this real or is this what I think it is; Photoshop.







As far as I know, it is impossible to polish a copper base as much as this one. Sorry if I'm wrong. Just took my attention.










Don't you see the bottle in front of the base. that's real buddy!


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *swordfish666*


Is this real or is this what I think it is; Photoshop.







As far as I know, it is impossible to polish a copper base as much as this one. Sorry if I'm wrong. Just took my attention.










That base hasn't been polished.

It's been lapped with sand paper.


----------



## ExperimentX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *swordfish666*


Is this real or is this what I think it is; Photoshop.







As far as I know, it is impossible to polish a copper base as much as this one. Sorry if I'm wrong. Just took my attention.










It is very possible.

Just need some 2000grit sand-paper (automotive body shop type stuff), and a decent amount of time, patience and a very flat surface.


----------



## AdvanSuper




----------



## swordfish666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ExperimentX*


It is very possible.

Just need some 2000grit sand-paper (automotive body shop type stuff), and a decent amount of time, patience and a very flat surface.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


That base hasn't been polished.

It's been lapped with sand paper.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Don't you see the bottle in front of the base. that's real buddy!


OK. Just making sure.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *swordfish666*


OK. Just making sure.


















YouTube- CPU Lapping Guide (Part 1 of 2)
Really good guide if you've never seen lapping.


----------



## swordfish666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


YouTube- CPU Lapping Guide (Part 1 of 2)

Really good guide if you've never seen lapping.


Thanks. Will learn a lot.


----------



## Ceadderman

My H50 after lapping.










~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *swordfish666*


Is this real or is this what I think it is; Photoshop.







As far as I know, it is impossible to polish a copper base as much as this one. Sorry if I'm wrong. Just took my attention.







(The picture is blurred too much for a short-range shot and if you see the properties section of the picture in Windows, you'll see what I mean.)


----------



## swordfish666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


My H50 after lapping.










~Ceadder










JPEG speaks. Cool.


----------



## Ceadderman

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *swordfish666*


JPEG speaks. Cool.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Ceadderman that's a shop I can tell


----------



## swordfish666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*











~Ceadder










After lapping the CPU and the base of the cooler, have you noticed any changes in the temperatures ?

I am starting to think that I should do it as well.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *swordfish666*


After lapping the CPU and the base of the cooler, have you noticed any changes in the temperatures ?

I am starting to think that I should do it as well.


The heatsink is what makes the most difference. I think with the CPU lapped it would be a maximum change of 4-5c, so it comes down to voiding your warranty for that gain, if you even get that much.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah I'm not sure what I got cause I didn't run the lapped CPU with the stock H50. But my temps went from upper 50s' to low 30s' @ 70F ambient temp. I'm running 34c @ 74F ambient at the moment.

That's not idle, but it's not load either. I'm running 8 windows and one of them is a CBS vid.

That's the only download for the moment.









But a 20 degree drop in temps is well worth it _imho_.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


The heatsink is what makes the most difference. I think with the CPU lapped it would be a maximum change of 4-5c, so it comes down to voiding your warranty for that gain, if you even get that much.


----------



## swordfish666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


The heatsink is what makes the most difference. I think with the CPU lapped it would be a maximum change of 4-5c, so it comes down to voiding your warranty for that gain, if you even get that much.


For now, it is a bit risky for that little differences. I'll wait for the warranty over. Thanks for the tip.


----------



## swordfish666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Yeah I'm not sure what I got cause I didn't run the lapped CPU with the stock H50. But my temps went from upper 50s' to low 30s' @ 70F ambient temp. I'm running 34c @ 74F ambient at the moment.

That's not idle, but it's not load either. I'm running 8 windows and one of them is a CBS vid.

That's the only download for the moment.









But a 20 degree drop in temps is well worth it _imho_.









~Ceadder










When the warranty is over, I wonder what my temps will be with lapped surfaces.


----------



## pm-roor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *swordfish666*


Is this real or is this what I think it is; Photoshop.







As far as I know, it is impossible to polish a copper base as much as this one. Sorry if I'm wrong. Just took my attention.







(The picture is blurred too much for a short-range shot and if you see the properties section of the picture in Windows, you'll see what I mean.)


im tackling ur DOF (Dept of Field) totally out of the question. first off. shot with a DSLR Canon XSI so you need photoshop to "develop" RAW image files. 2nd off with a 5.6 aperture you can blur the outside images since its more than likely center focused so its focuses on the flame with is more than likely about a 1 1/2 feet away while the foregroud is less than a foot causing a blurred bokeh like that. also with a 1/4 second shutter speed a slight movement could cause blurring like that.

tl:dr - not photoshop, learn photography by reading what i said


----------



## Ceadderman

I would point out that 4-5c is speculative at best. There are several factors that go into this. Ambient temp being the biggest one imho.

My 955 BE hadn't even been out of the box a week before I lapped it. Only reason I waited THAT long was because I wanted to be absolutely certain that it ran just fine. I ran it for 3 days straight to get the average temp which turned out to be hovering at 59c +/- with the stock kooler.

I lapped the H50 first and then lapped the CPU and got it hovering in the low 30s'. My minimum temp was 29c.

When I was trying to figure out what my issue was when the system wouldn't Post, I replaced the H50 with the stock cooler for that JiC moment. With the stock cooler I posted no lower than 37c on the average. There was one point where the AC was blowing over the top of my system so the system posted lower than that (32c) , but the stock cooler is NOT lapped. So I think that just lapping the CPU took 20c off the temp value.

I don't know why people think that it's only an insignificant number but imho and experience it's not that simple.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *swordfish666*


For now, it is a bit risky for that little differences. I'll wait for the warranty over. Thanks for the tip.


----------



## swordfish666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pm-roor*


im tackling ur DOF (Dept of Field) totally out of the question. first off. shot with a DSLR Canon XSI so you need photoshop to "develop" RAW image files. 2nd off with a 5.6 aperture you can blur the outside images since its more than likely center focused so its focuses on the flame with is more than likely about a 1 1/2 feet away while the foregroud is less than a foot causing a blurred bokeh like that. also with a 1/4 second shutter speed a slight movement could cause blurring like that.

tl:dr - not photoshop, learn photography by reading what i said


If that's all about photography, I learned.


----------



## dezerteagle323

just an update, I switched the rad as a front intake behind the 5.25 drive bay in my antec 1200, and still have enough room to use it as push/pull config, temps seem to have dropped a couple of degrees

i7 930 @4.2GHz, ambient temp 27 C
idle is 38 C 
prime95 load is 67 C

it took a bit of effort to switch the rad from exhaust to intake, but I'd say its worth it

here are some pics









sry for the iphone picture quality, but you can kinda see the tubing from the pump leading up to the rad which is right behind the red fan in the middle, which is the exhaust for the rad


the top fan on the front of the case serves as the intake for the rad


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


~Ceadder










This is so that you can show people here what's great about lapping...

I want you to overclock to 4Ghz then please post screen shots of you running Prime95 on Blend for 2 hours or more so that Everybody can appreciate the awesomeness of doing some lapping on CPU & Heatsink on a AMD.. dont forget after doing the Prime95, let the computer still for 45 minutes so that it reaches the lowest idle point. I'd suggest don't use the computer while stress testing so that its purely heat from the stress test and nothing else.

waffles


----------



## Ceadderman

I don't have Prime95.









I'm not worried about 4 Ghz. Pretty sure my CPU can do that in sleep mode. But I've never done it via BIOS. I set mine for 3.6+ via the OC tool.







lol

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


This is so that you can show people here what's great about lapping...

I want you to overclock to 4Ghz then please post screen shots of you running Prime95 on Blend for 2 hours or more so that Everybody can appreciate the awesomeness of doing some lapping on CPU & Heatsink on a AMD.. dont forget after doing the Prime95, let the computer still for 45 minutes so that it reaches the lowest idle point. I'd suggest don't use the computer while stress testing so that its purely heat from the stress test and nothing else.

waffles


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
I don't have Prime95.









I'm not worried about 4 Ghz. Pretty sure my CPU can do that in sleep mode. But I've never done it via BIOS. I set mine for 3.6+ via the OC tool.







lol

~Ceadder









We are on Overclock.net, we should expect to see some overclocking potential... especially to see how your H50 is doing after both laps for an AMD 955BE
screen shots having HWmonitor / Prime95 - 2hr + stress testing on Blend

Get Here Prime95 x64: http://www.eocfiles.com/bdc86eb1ed29...s/p64v2511.zip
Just simply put it anywhere you want, open it > select "Blend" & click OK... let it do its thing for over 2 hours(don't use the computer, leave it alone during the stressing)... then after the 2 hours you have to click on Test > Stop

NUMBER #1 RULE of overclocking NEVER use Software to overclock the CPU, always its a must overcloking from the Bios.. ofcourse don't forget to disable Cool & Quite or else you would get stability errors

Bios settings... for an easy 4Ghz overclock
CPU: 20x
FSB: 200
cpu voltage(test any of these): 1.45v, 1.47v, 1.5v
NB - 2000Mhz
HT - 2000Mhz
leave everything else on Auto on voltages
Set your ram how its suppose to be at... all though its recommended to set it on your next lower speed to insure your stability

i think you should be safe with this to get it, just do it... we need to see the full improvement on AMD after lapping the H50 & CPU - remember a 965BE C3 is literally the same as a 955BE its just clocked higher by stock... so seeing yoru results will help any AMD user who has a 965 or a 955 & owns an H50 to see how well its worth doing the lapping


----------



## Vinaazaka

How would you mount a rad as an intake in the front of a haf x similar to that antec 1200? and how effective would this be?


----------



## Ceadderman

You can mount it with zip-ties to the upper drive slots. That's how most people have done it. I have also seen someone here use a 4 in 3 device to hard mount it as well.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Vinaazaka* 
How would you mount a rad as an intake in the front of a haf x similar to that antec 1200? and how effective would this be?


----------



## dezerteagle323

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Vinaazaka* 
How would you mount a rad as an intake in the front of a haf x similar to that antec 1200? and how effective would this be?

hmm I really dont know if that'll be possible on a haf x since it only has the big intake fan on the bottom, and that tubing for the rad will definitely not let it reach all the way down there in the front... its too short

what I can think of is to put the rad/fan assembly in the 5.25 drive bays (using zip ties or 3M mounting tape) and then remove the front panel covers of those drive bays so that your push/pull fans will have air to breathe in ... it might look a little ghetto without those front covers but I think functionally it would work pretty well

EDIT: you might not have to remove those front drive bay covers since the perforations on them look big enough for air to pass through


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dezerteagle323* 
hmm I really dont know if that'll be possible on a haf x since it only has the big intake fan on the bottom, and that tubing for the rad will definitely not let it reach all the way down there in the front... its too short

what I can think of is to put the rad/fan assembly in the 5.25 drive bays (using zip ties or 3M mounting tape) and then remove the front panel covers of those drive bays so that your push/pull fans will have air to breathe in ... it might look a little ghetto without those front covers but I think functionally it would work pretty well

EDIT: you might not have to remove those front drive bay covers since the perforations on them look big enough for air to pass through

Dude he said on the 5.25 drive bay area... exactly what you have replied on "i can think of..." lol

Quote:

upper drive slots.


----------



## dezerteagle323

lol well i posted like 1 min after him so didnt see that .. haha but yea i would definitely like to see someone with this h50 config on a hafX


----------



## Buster

How many degree better if I add a shroud to my stock corsair h50?


----------



## dezerteagle323

for me I got a 2-3 C difference variation from idle and load ... its worth it esp if you do a shroud on both sides of the rad... and can also help lower down the noise a bit


----------



## PCSarge

i had fun today... i called intel for the fun of it, to see if 4ghz is covered under warranty, i gave them my settings in bios, and they said its covered as long as you dont run it over 74C, so im good... i5-750 FTW

EDIT: they also said the voltage numbers for the i5-750 are wrong on thier website they are a 1.4v rating


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
i had fun today... i called intel for the fun of it, to see if 4ghz is covered under warranty, i gave them my settings in bios, and they said its covered as long as you dont run it over 74C, so im good... i5-750 FTW

EDIT: they also said the voltage numbers for the i5-750 are wrong on thier website they are a 1.4v rating

That's actually good to know. But one question, how can they tell if you ran it hotter than that?


----------



## PCSarge

according to them, the cpu has some way to keep record of the highest temperature it hits inside of it, they wouldnt disclose how.... but its somewhere on the chip


----------



## Buster

I am undecided between the noctua nf-p12 or gentle typhoon for my corsair. How many degree better if I just replace my stock corsair fan with noctua?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
according to them, the cpu has some way to keep record of the highest temperature it hits inside of it, they wouldnt disclose how.... but its somewhere on the chip

Wonder if true or they just say that to scare users?


----------



## PCSarge

i think its true... a friend of mine RMA'd his chip, he bought it a week before didnt say he overclocked it, intel told him the highest recorded temp internally was 87c and they would not replace it


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
i think its true... a friend of mine RMA'd his chip, he bought it a week before didnt say he overclocked it, intel told him the highest recorded temp internally was 87c and they would not replace it

Hmm, guess it's true then. Yeah but with the stock cooler you can easily hit those temps. i think that can easily be fought. is it worth it? Probably not.


----------



## PCSarge

no its not... my stock cooler actually did well on my i5 before i had an H50... i think max i hit was 67C on OCCT linpack 2 hrs, mind you i have wind tunnel type airflow through my case, front and side 230mm fans intake, top 2 R4's exhaust, the H50 came later, as intake in the 5 1/4 bays

EDIT: i have a rear 140mm set up for exhaust for when things get a little too warm for my liking, which i switch on with my fan controller


----------



## bob2701

Hi everyone, I have a new GA890FXA-UD5 motherboard which I want to install the H50 on. My question is can I use the stock backplate or the plastic backplate from the kit? The stock backplate seem to be much better.

Thanks, Bob


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bob2701* 
Hi everyone, I have a new GA890FXA-UD5 motherboard which I want to install the H50 on. My question is can I use the stock backplate or the plastic backplate from the kit? The stock backplate seem to be much better.

Thanks, Bob

use the one that came with the cooler, the stock ones tend to cause problems


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
no its not... my stock cooler actually did well on my i5 before i had an H50... i think max i hit was 67C on OCCT linpack 2 hrs, mind you i have wind tunnel type airflow through my case, front and side 230mm fans intake, top 2 R4's exhaust, the H50 came later, as intake in the 5 1/4 bays

EDIT: i have a rear 140mm set up for exhaust for when things get a little too warm for my liking, which i switch on with my fan controller

not sure how hot it gets there, but here in Miami it gets to 106Âºf in the summer or around there, ambients get really warm unless you run your a/c all day so it's def. cutting it close.


----------



## bob2701

Thanks, PCSarge


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bob2701* 
Thanks, PCSarge

anytime bob


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
not sure how hot it gets there, but here in Miami it gets to 106Âºf in the summer or around there, ambients get really warm unless you run your a/c all day so it's def. cutting it close.

its 35C right now outside, its around 27C in my house, my A/C is working overtime, and my H50 has my cpu idling at 23-25C atm...dunno how its below ambient.... may be because the A/C vent is blowing down 2 feet to the right of my pc


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
its 35C right now outside, its around 27C in my house, my A/C is working overtime, and my H50 has my cpu idling at 23-25C atm...dunno how its below ambient.... may be because the A/C vent is blowing down 2 feet to the right of my pc

Has to be the ac blowing on it no way you can go below what your ambient is with just straight water cooling of any kind.

It has been around 35C around here too but my ambient is kept about 22C and my H50 is 1-2C above that at idle at least.


----------



## FragMasta75

So coming in the mail I have this fan, and I already have this fan for my H50. Which one should be push, and which one should be pull do you guys think?


----------



## PCSarge

the one you have on push, the new one on pull imo


----------



## FragMasta75

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
the one you have on push, the new one on pull imo

That's what I was thinking, but I read somewhere earlier about back pressure if the pull fan isnt fast enough to keep up with the push. The faster fan should give me more immediate results going directly through the rad tho I would think.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FragMasta75* 
That's what I was thinking, but I read somewhere earlier about back pressure if the pull fan isnt fast enough to keep up with the push. The faster fan should give me more immediate results going directly through the rad tho I would think.

yes it should, you can try both ways if you like, it really depends on airflow though

EDIT: as in airflow in your case, not your house


----------



## AdvanSuper

Should I try and strap my ultra kaze to my rad? I'm fairly bored right now...


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...l#post10116787

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...l#post10117077

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...l#post10118040

Before / After

Idle
BF - AF
48 - 38 = 10c
46 - 35 = 11c
48 - 38 = 10c
48 - 38 = 10c

Load
BF - AF
65 - 53 = 12c
63 - 51 = 12c
63 - 51 = 12c
63 - 51 = 12c









amazing... Id never expect more than a 3c drop since changing paste, reseating, using an extra fan, and upgrading fans NEVER gave me more than a 3c drop

at 4ghz and 1.26v on a 920, one core goes up to 82c.. i want it to go no higher than 75c for 24/7 use

this is my second H50 and both have been mediocre..

do you think lapping will help me? i dont want to waste hours only to get a 2c drop. Im really aiming for a 5c+ drop.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Should I try and strap my ultra kaze to my rad? I'm fairly bored right now...

why don't you strap your air conditioner to your rad


----------



## PCSarge

ive been goofing around trying to shave a few degrees off my 5770 when it folds, it usually sits at about 74c w/o the fan cranked up past 60%
currently, the fan is at 60%, and ive made a home made spot fan for the back of my gpu (the side that faces my cpu) because it was rather hot to the touch
low and behold, it dropped the temps to 68C! if u want pics of my mediocre mod ill provide them

EDIT: make note, this is on an OC to 950/1400 that i run when folding


----------



## Ceadderman

I knocked 20c off mine by lapping. Though Intel and AMD are different in their heat ratings, I suspect you'd knock 10 to 15c off by lapping your Intel.

But remember now, warranty instantly voided the moment you put a scratch on it. Be sure or stay on the porch.No shame in staying on the porch, but 2 years is a LONG time to wait.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ThumperSD* 







amazing... Id never expect more than a 3c drop since changing paste, reseating, using an extra fan, and upgrading fans NEVER gave me more than a 3c drop

at 4ghz and 1.26v on a 920, one core goes up to 82c.. i want it to go no higher than 75c for 24/7 use

this is my second H50 and both have been mediocre..

do you think lapping will help me? i dont want to waste hours only to get a 2c drop. Im really aiming for a 5c+ drop.


----------



## FragMasta75

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Should I try and strap my ultra kaze to my rad? I'm fairly bored right now...

Do it! Do it!


----------



## PCSarge

welll heres the pics... because its 12:30am and im uber bored
thier probably not the best quality, forgive my cellphone camera
make note, the screws lift it up, but its sitting on foam feet, no harm done to the vid card

EDIT: ooh yay... i can see my fans need a dusting on that pic...the rad was cleaned yesterday lol

EDIT AGAIN: forgot to mention the wiring mess is temporary, next weekend im removing this psu and putting in an 800w modular...and possibly another 5770...and another 4gb of ram....this one is a temporary 450W from my old rig... im spurprised this one boots on 450W with the draw it makes on it
but OCZ StealthXStream PSUs seem to hold up to thier name


----------



## Ceadderman

That's pretty cool. Pun not intended of course.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
welll heres the pics... because its 12:30am and im uber bored
thier probably not the best quality, forgive my cellphone camera
make note, the screws lift it up, but its sitting on foam feet, no harm done to the vid card

EDIT: ooh yay... i can see my fans need a dusting on that pic...the rad was cleaned yesterday lol


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ThumperSD* 
do you think lapping will help me? i dont want to waste hours only to get a 2c drop. Im really aiming for a 5c+ drop.

Ummm at 4.2 @ 1.294 vcore I was hitting 79-79-76-76 under LinX and hitting 72-72-68-68 under Prime 95.

The proof is in the pudding and the hardware was exactly the same before and after (same TIM, fans, ambient, mounting). Just take your time doing it and you can't go wrong I was shocked when I seen the difference.

I'm on the fence about lapping the CPU, but I never had a CPU die on me so it's tempting to do.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Also remember the H50 isn't really that great for the 1366 procs since they run pretty hot. It's actually the reason why I lapped mine or else I was gonna look into a wc loop for it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Eeet DO, Eeet DO!









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Ummm at 4.2 @ 1.294 vcore I was hitting 79-79-76-76 under LinX and hitting 72-72-68-68 under Prime 95.

The proof is in the pudding and the hardware was exactly the same before and after (same TIM, fans, ambient, mounting). Just take your time doing it and you can't go wrong I was shocked when I seen the difference.

I'm on the fence about lapping the CPU, but I never had a CPU die on me so it's tempting to do.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Can it be damaged in anyway?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Can it be damaged in anyway?


only if you sand it too far down....then you'll hit circutry...and itll be toasted


----------



## sendblink23

hey Ceadderman are you gonna plan to do the stress testing?


----------



## Demented

Wow, those lapping results are amazing! I wonder if it would help my Q9550. It's been damn hot in my apartment, even with a window unit, but when I can get room temps to about 75-80f, I'm idling at 36-40 and loads...well...to be honest I haven't even done much stress testing since the hot weather came.

I might have to go to the hardware store and get some sandpaper this week and give it a go.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup. Been too tired to do much today. Ran out of Caffeine so been lethargic and tired all day.

Got Caffeine now but have to wake back up. I'll have a go at it either tomorrow or Tuesday. I DL'ed Prime95 and it's installed ready to rip. Thanks for the link to that DL.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


hey Ceadderman are you gonna plan to do the stress testing?


----------



## Ceadderman

Remember now my results are AMD results. Intel will be different.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demented*


Wow, those lapping results are amazing! I wonder if it would help my Q9550. It's been damn hot in my apartment, even with a window unit, but when I can get room temps to about 75-80f, I'm idling at 36-40 and loads...well...to be honest I haven't even done much stress testing since the hot weather came.

I might have to go to the hardware store and get some sandpaper this week and give it a go.


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demented*


Wow, those lapping results are amazing! I wonder if it would help my Q9550.


Well I lapped my Q9550 and my h50 just last week - but honestly I don't know that my load temps are any different. Idle temps dropped 2-ish degrees - though it doesn't seem to make sense that my idle temps would drop while load temps remain the same...

I probably didn't do the best job, but it's certainly not bad. I would love to hear from somebody else who's done it to their Q9550 to see if it might be worth getting back in there to do a little more sanding









Currently, with my GT-AP15 running full speed I get load temps of ~60C running IBT with a 3000MB stress level (maximum doesn't equal same test everytime, so this is near max...)

Anyway, this seems to be my experience so far - shrouds, new fans, new fan arrangements, lapping, etc, etc... temperature drop = meh


----------



## AdvanSuper

I put the kaze on the rad in push config as intake 2-4c lower at idle.


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cmeeks*


Well I lapped my Q9550 and my h50 just last week - but honestly I don't know that my load temps are any different. Idle temps dropped 2-ish degrees - though it doesn't seem to make sense that my idle temps would drop while load temps remain the same...

I probably didn't do the best job, but it's certainly not bad. I would love to hear from somebody else who's done it to their Q9550 to see if it might be worth getting back in there to do a little more sanding









Currently, with my GT-AP15 running full speed I get load temps of ~60C running IBT with a 3000MB stress level (maximum doesn't equal same test everytime, so this is near max...)

Anyway, this seems to be my experience so far - shrouds, new fans, new fan arrangements, lapping, etc, etc... temperature drop = meh






























VELI VELI nice lap


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


I put the kaze on the rad in push config as intake 2-4c lower at idle.


LinX @ Load compared to Yate Loons push/pull+shroud

Yate Loon = YL
Ultra Kaze = UK

YL - UK
79c - 67c = 12c
79c - 66c = 13c
76c - 65c = 11c
76c - 64c = 12c

I think I'm keeping the UK on







. Ambient has been around the same all day 70-75.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


LinX @ Load compared to Yate Loons push/pull+shroud

Yate Loon = YL
Ultra Kaze = UK

YL - UK
79c - 67c = 12c
79c - 66c = 13c
76c - 65c = 11c
76c - 64c = 12c

I think I'm keeping the UK on







. Ambient has been around the same all day 70-75.


I want some UK lol what's the full name of the one's you have... so that i can test them on my noctua


----------



## fencefeet

Should have uploaded this a while ago but I did in fact mod my H50--and I'm happy to say that it's treated me well the past 2 months since I have upgraded it.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fencefeet*


Should have uploaded this a while ago but I did in fact mod my H50--and I'm happy to say that it's treated me well the past 2 months since I have upgraded it.


yummy


----------



## FragMasta75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fencefeet*


Should have uploaded this a while ago but I did in fact mod my H50--and I'm happy to say that it's treated me well the past 2 months since I have upgraded it.


That's badass man. I'm considering doing something like that with my H50, too. The only thing holding me back is money


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


I want some UK lol what's the full name of the one's you have... so that i can test them on my noctua


Scythe DFS123812-3000 "ULTRA KAZE" 120 x 38 mm Case Fan


----------



## Ceadderman

I've got AMD mind you but...










Checking it's flatness...










I think that you can see the difference. I'd pull it and see if you can't get it a bit closer to this. Try to start from where you left off gritwise. If you got to 2k and stopped then I'd use one sheet of 1500 for 30 reps per rotation, check it for flatness and if flat skip to 2000 to clean it up @ same per rotation. If not flat move up to 1800 and follow it up with 2k. Just 1 sheet each or how many you can bring yourself to feel comfortable with and check for flatness between each sheet to keep yourself from overdoing it.









Check it for flatness before you start it though. That way you can judge which grit you need to start or finish with. It may be closer than it appears to be.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *cmeeks*


Well I lapped my Q9550 and my h50 just last week - but honestly I don't know that my load temps are any different. Idle temps dropped 2-ish degrees - though it doesn't seem to make sense that my idle temps would drop while load temps remain the same...

I probably didn't do the best job, but it's certainly not bad. I would love to hear from somebody else who's done it to their Q9550 to see if it might be worth getting back in there to do a little more sanding









Currently, with my GT-AP15 running full speed I get load temps of ~60C running IBT with a 3000MB stress level (maximum doesn't equal same test everytime, so this is near max...)

Anyway, this seems to be my experience so far - shrouds, new fans, new fan arrangements, lapping, etc, etc... temperature drop = meh


----------



## Muntey

Which temperature reporting utility would you guys recommend?

Till now, I have been using real temp, but have found that when I try other programs, they are reporting about 10C higher than real temp; what do you think of this?


----------



## Ceadderman

I been using PC Probe II which comes with my MoBo utility disc. Before that I was using CPU-ID's temperature reporting app. Can't think of it right now it's been awhile.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Muntey*


Which temperature reporting utility would you guys recommend?

Till now, I have been using real temp, but have found that when I try other programs, they are reporting about 10C higher than real temp; what do you think of this?


----------



## supra_rz

hey guys , should i use the TIM which comes with h50 or use some ocz freeze ? also how much should i apply to the cpu ?
Thanks


----------



## Ceadderman

You should scrape the stock TIM off and roll it into a ball then take approximately half of that and put it on the cooler and it will spread when pressure is applied.

The stock TIM is Shin-Etsu G751 which is the best rated TIM over the OCZ Freeze. Freeze is a decent TIM but the G751 has a short Burn-In and you might actually like your temps with that. At least you should try to use it before you move to something else.

The other half should go into a ZipLoc baggie in case you need to scrape and reseat for any reason. The only problem I could see with the stock TIM is that Asetek applies too much of it. It's as thick as the stock cooler's TIM. I was able to reuse the stock Cooler (after 3 days usage) w/o even scraping and applying fresh TIM. That's how much AMD uses and how much Asetek uses for the H50.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *supra_rz*


hey guys , should i use the TIM which comes with h50 or use some ocz freeze ? also how much should i apply to the cpu ?
Thanks


----------



## kamilowski

Do you guys think 2 x Noctua NF-S12B FLX in pull/push will be enough to keep a 4gb overclock at a reasonable temperature?
The fans are 1200 rpm

http://www.xsreviews.co.uk/reviews/m...a-nf-s12b-flx/

I just finished the build and the temperature seems to be creeping upwards. Started at 32'c and after about an hour it was up to 37.5'c just installing windows.


----------



## Ceadderman

lol Dude that's a load condition. And it could also be attributed to your ambients. You didn't give us that. But I wouldn't worry till you see 45c @ idle.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *kamilowski*


Do you guys think 2 x Noctua NF-S12B FLX in pull/push will be enough to keep a 4gb overclock at a reasonable temperature?
The fans are 1200 rpm

http://www.xsreviews.co.uk/reviews/m...a-nf-s12b-flx/

I just finished the build and the temperature seems to be creeping upwards. Started at 32'c and after about an hour it was up to 37.5'c just installing windows.


----------



## kamilowski

thx, but what about those fans? are they good enough?


----------



## Ceadderman

I never ran the Nocs, but from everything I've read they're pretty solid. All I can say is you'll need a shroud if you don't have one already. You want the shroud to be between the Pusher and the RAD. If you wanted to you could add one between the RAD and the Puller. But it's not necessary.

The shroud will help minimize the dead spot in front of the Hub in the direction of flow. This will also help decrease noise causing vibration on the RAD itself.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *kamilowski*


thx, but what about those fans? are they good enough?


----------



## kamilowski

thanks *)


----------



## vonrickster

I recently bought the H50 for my AMD build because i'm only running the stock HSF. I bought it off newegg with these two fans as well (Link below). I bought these because i read off corsair's website they said to have fans around 50CFM. Will these in a push/pull work okay or should i use one in a combo with the exhaust antec tri-cool that came with my 902? Thanks for any help!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811998121


----------



## Fantomau

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vonrickster*


I recently bought the H50 for my AMD build because i'm only running the stock HSF. I bought it off newegg with these two fans as well (Link below). I bought these because i read off corsair's website they said to have fans around 50CFM. Will these in a push/pull work okay or should i use one in a combo with the exhaust antec tri-cool that came with my 902? Thanks for any help!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811998121


I use 2 of these:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-092-_-Product


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks like I have to hold off a bit longer.

My brand new system just Crash Dumped w/o warning. If I cannot run CIV IV, 7 safari windows, 1 Explorer window, Steam home page and PC Probe II with my AV programs, there is NO way my system will hold up to even one hour @ 4 Ghz.

I wasn't even DL'ing anything. It's my NB that caused it to dump, cause my GPU is in the 1st slot. So when I get my sleeving, it looks like I'll once again pull the MoBo and file down the NB standoffs.

It could have been RAM but I have my graphics for "Call of Pripyat" maxxed out and it's never done this. This is twice now that CIV IV has dumped my system on it's ass.









8 Gigs of RAM should easily handle that game.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


hey Ceadderman are you gonna plan to do the stress testing?


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Looks like I have to hold off a bit longer.

My brand new system just Crash Dumped w/o warning. If I cannot run CIV IV, 7 safari windows, 1 Explorer window, Steam home page and PC Probe II with my AV programs, there is NO way my system will hold up to even one hour @ 4 Ghz.

I wasn't even DL'ing anything. It's my NB that caused it to dump, cause my GPU is in the 1st slot. So when I get my sleeving, it looks like I'll once again pull the MoBo and file down the NB standoffs.

It could have been RAM but I have my graphics for "Call of Pripyat" maxxed out and it's never done this. This is twice now that CIV IV has dumped my system on it's ass.









8 Gigs of RAM should easily handle that game.









~Ceadder










Up more the CPU voltage, You did lower the speed of your ram right?
I did say try any of these 1.45v, 1.47v, 1.5v
Ram set them at the lowest speed then just to insure its stable: 800Mhz

this is just for stress testing not for computer usage LOL

Impossible the NB is the fault, because I said clearly set the NB & HT to 2000Mhz which that is stock settings


----------



## JL421

I'm thinking of using two of these for a push/pull config

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...9&sku=S23-1058

I believe they should work relatively well, or am I wrong...


----------



## FragMasta75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JL421*


I'm thinking of using two of these for a push/pull config

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...9&sku=S23-1058

I believe they should work relatively well, or am I wrong...


Silenx fans are trash, I wouldn't recommend it.


----------



## KruperTrooper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JL421* 
I'm thinking of using two of these for a push/pull config

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...9&sku=S23-1058

I believe they should work relatively well, or am I wrong...

Get Scythe GT's. AP-15 to be exact.


----------



## Royraiden

Hi all you can add me to the list.But im having a bit of a problem with my cooler.The cpu is at stock and Im getting temps of around 45-51C at idle and 55-61C at load( 69 max at full load on prime)I know this temps are not good as they should Im using the thermal paste that comes with the h50 and the included fan, first as exhaust and now as intake, the latter lowered my temps by 1-2 C.My room temp is around 25-31 C so is very hot in here though.One thing I should point out is, that when installing the cooler itself on the cpu, I was tightening the last screw and it actually popped up,I know this was odd and is enough reason to reseat the whole thing again just to be sure.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FragMasta75* 
Silenx fans are trash, I wouldn't recommend it.

This.


----------



## Skaterboydale

Hows my case air flow with my push pull config?










Haven't done the build yet, but how is it looking?


----------



## TheLastPriest

Thats a whole lot of out, not a lot of in. Though without the tower of a standard cooler the only thing you really need to worry about is your video card....not sure.


----------



## Skaterboydale

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheLastPriest* 
Thats a whole lot of out, not a lot of in. Though without the tower of a standard cooler the only thing you really need to worry about is your video card....not sure.

Thats the annoying thing about the p180, you cant put a fan in front of the HDD cage!!


----------



## Ceadderman

No-no, it's the MoBo itself. This is the Board that has the NB issue. I thought I fixed it but apparently the standoffs need to be filed down. I was trying to avoid that but it looks like I have to do it too.

I was running nothing but stock settings and Civ IV crashed my system. So either Civ IV is to blame (doubtful) or my NB being directly under my GPU, overheated and forced the crash.

At least that's what I believe it is. Can't be 100% certain but no way it should have blue screened in a Memory dump with what I'm running. My Bro is playing Civ IV "Beyond the Sword" on a lesser Board with onboard 4200 Graphics 8 Gigs of RAM and everything works fine on his system. It may be my Graphics but I'm running Civ IV Warlords on Default settings. It's rather doubtful that it's a GPU issue. I run S.T.A.L.K.E.R.: Call of Pripyat at max settings and haven't had one issue with that.









Anyway soon as I get the standoffs filed down, I will know more but for now I'm not going @ 4 Ghz.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
Up more the CPU voltage, You did lower the speed of your ram right?
I did say try any of these 1.45v, 1.47v, 1.5v
Ram set them at the lowest speed then just to insure its stable: 800Mhz

this is just for stress testing not for computer usage LOL

Impossible the NB is the fault, because I said clearly set the NB & HT to 2000Mhz which that is stock settings


----------



## Ceadderman

Thread your hold down screws all the way through the plastic inserts before starting them into the back plate inserts. This will give you enough room to pull the ring far enough away from the socket to insert the pump, twist and lock it into place and then start tightening each bolt in criss-cross fashion.

That should fix the issue. Your temps are not bad if you haven't lapped your CPU. But there is always room for improvement.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Royraiden* 
Hi all you can add me to the list.But im having a bit of a problem with my cooler.The cpu is at stock and Im getting temps of around 45-51C at idle and 55-61C at load( 69 max at full load on prime)I know this temps are not good as they should Im using the thermal paste that comes with the h50 and the included fan, first as exhaust and now as intake, the latter lowered my temps by 1-2 C.My room temp is around 25-31 C so is very hot in here though.One thing I should point out is, that when installing the cooler itself on the cpu, I was tightening the last screw and it actually popped up,I know this was odd and is enough reason to reseat the whole thing again just to be sure.


----------



## customcomputerftw

add me to the list, no wait i guess i'll add myself







follow my build ( and yes thats 3/8id 1/2od uv blue tubing)


----------



## Royraiden

Thanks Ceadderman, I do believe theres a lot of room for improvement since when I first booted into windows I was getting idle temps in the mid 30's and they have gone up a lot.50C at idle seems a lot to me for a stock voltage 930.Ill install the pump again but Im going to use AS5, I hope that lowers the temp a bit until I can get a better fan.


----------



## Ceadderman

No problem. Just remember there is a 200 hour Burn In time with AS5 and you should be alright.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Royraiden* 
Thanks Ceadderman, I do believe theres a lot of room for improvement since when I first booted into windows I was getting idle temps in the mid 30's and they have gone up a lot.50C at idle seems a lot to me for a stock voltage 930.Ill install the pump again but Im going to use AS5, I hope that lowers the temp a bit until I can get a better fan.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Yate Loon's have ****ting wiring man... two pins popped out on my fans, 1 from the 120mm and another on the 140mm... They went back in though and hopefully they stay in.


----------



## Ceadderman

Which pins? The Moles or the 3 pins?









I didn't have any problem with mine, but I'm one of a vast number of owners. But I do have inject that Corsair probably wouldn't use their fans if their typical product were shoddy.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Yate Loon's have ****ting wiring man... two pins popped out on my fans, 1 from the 120mm and another on the 140mm... They went back in though and hopefully they stay in.


----------



## AdvanSuper

1 molex pin popped out on both.


----------



## WTHbot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


1 molex pin popped out on both.


Where did you get them from?


----------



## Ceadderman

Probably a fluke issue of the pins not being completely seated. Or the place you got them from had sleeved them in advance, ran out of unsleeved units and had to modify prior to shipment.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


1 molex pin popped out on both.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


Where did you get them from?


performance-pc's

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Probably a fluke issue of the pins not being completely seated. Or the place you got them from had sleeved them in advance, ran out of unsleeved units and had to modify prior to shipment.









~Ceadder










Possibly, or they just tied them up too tight causing the pin to pop out which is most likely the case. I loosened it up a bit and they look fine now.


----------



## digital_steve

I'm running Scythe S-Flex 1900 RPM's as my push/pull fans and Scythe S-Flex 1600 RPM's as my 2 case intakes.
Do the Scythe Gentle Typhoons outdo these? Is their static pressure better (i know their CFM are better @ 90-odd CFM)?


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah, mine were wrapped up pretty tight too. I'll be lopping off some moles pretty soon though since my sleeving kit should be here in the next few days. I've got some creative shortening and lengthening to do.

My P/P setup is barely making the MoBo, so I'm gonna lop the moles from the bottom unit and the 140 exhaust and use the leftovers to lengthen the 3 pin lead that the P/P hooks in with. That should allow me to hide more of the cable, even if after it's sleeved.










~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


performance-pc's

Possibly, or they just tied them up too tight causing the pin to pop out which is most likely the case. I loosened it up a bit and they look fine now.


----------



## slimbrady

add ME


















Since this pic I have changed the setup to push/pull with fan shrouds on both sides and moved the radiator and fans into the bottom drive bay(just barely reached with screws).


----------



## Mr_2tone

Hello to all,

Please bear with me as this will probably sound like a stupid question but I am quite new to all of this. I have read a portion of this thread but somewhere in the 400th message, I decided to post my question instead.

In the manual it indicates to plug the fan into the cpu_fan connector and the pump to any opt_fan connector.

Would it matter or be a potential problem if I instead plugged the pump connection into the pwr_fan connector instead of the opt_fan connector. (for ref. I am using the Maximus extreme III Mobo).

Thank you in advance for your replies.


----------



## rurushu

Hey there,

So I finally got a new H50, installed it and everything only to notice that the temps were WORSE than my old cm 212+ (about 2-3c higher with the same ambient temps). So I tried a few combinations (set the fan to outtake, turned the rad over so that the hoses are on the bottom) but nothing helped. Shoud I try reseating? I only have a little AS5 paste available right now (is this better or worse than the stock paste?)

Also, should I try doing push/pull with 2 1150rpm Scythe GTs? I can't find any better fans around here.


----------



## dezerteagle323

AS5 is definitely not as good as the stock paste, shin-etsu which is one of top tim's you can get, and push/pull with fan shroud(s) is the best way to go, I have mine as intake in the 5.25 drive bays


----------



## dezerteagle323

mr 2tone

you should be able to plug it in any port on the mobo, but you just have to make sure that the bios has that port set at full power always, not auto


----------



## Mr_2tone

Thank you for the reply Dezerteagle323. 
And thanks for pointing out the Bios adjustment, I had not thought about that one.


----------



## Chicken Patty

That is something often overlooked by people, just set it to 100% in the BIOS and the pump/ fan will be running at full speed


----------



## Ceadderman

Yo slim, you'll have a much better cooling outcome if you mount your Rad to the top of that Case.









The way it's setup right now, you're inviting a disaster to happen.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
add ME


















Since this pic I have changed the setup to push/pull with fan shrouds on both sides and moved the radiator and fans into the bottom drive bay(just barely reached with screws).


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Yo slim, you'll have a much better cooling outcome if you mount your Rad to the top of that Case.









The way it's setup right now, you're inviting a disaster to happen.









~Ceadder










It looks quite OK to me, I wouldnt say that's disasterous









The barbs could be a little strained, but I dont think it's terrible.


----------



## Ceadderman

Shouldn't be a problem to plug it in on the PWR header. You just have to get into your BIOS and check to see if you can either "Ignore" it so it runs at 100% or if you can set the header to run full time like in my BIOS where I set the header to 100% @ minimum temp & 100% @ Maximum temp.

It's that simple.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mr_2tone* 
Hello to all,

Please bear with me as this will probably sound like a stupid question but I am quite new to all of this. I have read a portion of this thread but somewhere in the 400th message, I decided to post my question instead.

In the manual it indicates to plug the fan into the cpu_fan connector and the pump to any opt_fan connector.

Would it matter or be a potential problem if I instead plugged the pump connection into the pwr_fan connector instead of the opt_fan connector. (for ref. I am using the Maximus extreme III Mobo).

Thank you in advance for your replies.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Ummm... if the fan is pushing air where I think it is he's basically blowing the heat from the hdd's into the rad.


----------



## Ceadderman

Look at the top of that Radiator, Kill. All air, any air is trapped there in the typical fittings up mounting. But the pipes are at an incline and straight up to the pump. It's only a matter of time before it's all in the pump.









I'm only looking out for his best interest by pointing this out.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
It looks quite OK to me, I wouldnt say that's disasterous









The barbs could be a little strained, but I dont think it's terrible.


----------



## Ceadderman

I have the 932 and my HDDs' in RAID don't push enough heat to affect the cooling of the H50.

My drives in Read/Right are in 2nd and 4th trays. The hottest they get is roughly 35c if that. It's not the drives but air is involved.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Ummm... if the fan is pushing air where I think it is he's basically blowing the heat from the hdd's into the rad.


----------



## r2tbone

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
performance-pc's

Possibly, or they just tied them up too tight causing the pin to pop out which is most likely the case. I loosened it up a bit and they look fine now.


You should call them to see if they would like to replace it. I know it is easily fixable but, I do know first hand that Performance-Pcs has excellent customer support.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Look at the top of that Radiator, Kill. All air, any air is trapped there in the typical fittings up mounting. But the pipes are at an incline and straight up to the pump. It's only a matter of time before it's all in the pump.









I'm only looking out for his best interest by pointing this out.









~Ceadder









Ah I see what you mean, I hadnt thought of that and thought you were more referring to the airflow or something







Sounds like reasonable logic though.


----------



## Ceadderman

I mounted mine to the ceiling of my 932, so I know it will mount there and my hoses are slack with the radiator fitting at the end nearest the CPU.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Ah I see what you mean, I hadnt thought of that and thought you were more referring to the airflow or something







Sounds like reasonable logic though.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mr_2tone* 
Hello to all,

Please bear with me as this will probably sound like a stupid question but I am quite new to all of this. I have read a portion of this thread but somewhere in the 400th message, I decided to post my question instead.

In the manual it indicates to plug the fan into the cpu_fan connector and the pump to any opt_fan connector.

Would it matter or be a potential problem if I instead plugged the pump connection into the pwr_fan connector instead of the opt_fan connector. (for ref. I am using the Maximus extreme III Mobo).

Thank you in advance for your replies.

I have my pump plugged into my Rampage's pwr-fan header. It actually allows my pump to run better. When I had it on a different header, I was getting between 1320-1330 RPM's, but on the pwr-fan header I get 1330-1360 RPM's. I'm not sure if I had to tweak any settings in my BIOS, so you might want to check into that to make sure it's running at max power.


----------



## Killhouse

So the Corsair H-70 is coming, apparently.
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...rsair-h70.html

Should I expand the thread to include them?


----------



## WTHbot

I say so, maybe make it the Corsair Hydro club.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


I say so, maybe make it the Corsair Hydro club.


I'll do that


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WTHbot* 
I say so, maybe make it the Corsair Hydro club.

+1.... mite get a h50 or h70 sometime.... depends on price >.<


----------



## Mr_2tone

Thank you all for your replies. It is very much appreciated.


----------



## sendblink23

I will be getting the H70 when its out

By the way guys I've just inserted back the H50 on my case.. since I changed to another new mobo.... just wanted to have a clean look for now... I noticed having a big issue with the Noctua on this mobo - graphic card on the 1st slot is way too close to it(a little less than half an inch)... so for removing that graphic card I need to remove my whole heatsink.. >







dammit I wanted to be colder... but i can't now if I want CF x16... but wte at least the H50 makes the whole setup look good... I have it on a regular simple exhaust push/pull with the CMR4's

I'm back H50 for now - the Noctua is now hiding inside its retail box lol


----------



## KruperTrooper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WTHbot*


I say so, maybe make it the Corsair Hydro club.


Yeah. I think most of the things discussed in this thread would also apply to the H70, like what fans to get, proper mounting technique, TIM to use, etc.


----------



## Killhouse

Indeed, im checking it out with the mod just to make sure it's all fine and dandy.

You came crawling back Sendblink







The clean look is really what gets it for me.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Indeed, im checking it out with the mod just to make sure it's all fine and dandy.

You came crawling back Sendblink







The clean look is really what gets it for me.


I'm staying








the monster can wait for another future build


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I mounted mine to the ceiling of my 932, so I know it will mount there and my hoses are slack with the radiator fitting at the end nearest the CPU.









~Ceadder










thanks for the heads up man, as I said on the bottom of the pic, I was able to move it into the lowest drive bay and use it as a front intake when i added the 2 shrouds...though my hoses are fairly taught....does that affect my cooling as well(I realized immediatly after looking at the picture that the original config was going to be pulling slightly hotter air off the hdd's...just figured I would try to benefit some from the big 200m intake in front...haven't really gotten close to nailing down the aerodynamics of this case yet) but again thanks for the heads up and feel to drop anymore pointers my way heh, new to this watercooling business^^


----------



## iscariot

This thread is huge and I dont want to start a new one so I just thought I would ask you good folks a question.

As you can see by my sig rig I have a somewhat similar cooler. I just wanted to check how my temps compare with yours









My idles are around 41 or 42 Celcius
Load in Prime95 is 70
Load in LinX is 77

Does that seem bout right or do I need to re-do the TIM and re-seat the sucker?

Cheers guys


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iscariot*


This thread is huge and I dont want to start a new one so I just thought I would ask you good folks a question.

As you can see by my sig rig I have a somewhat similar cooler. I just wanted to check how my temps compare with yours









My idles are around 41 or 42 Celcius
Load in Prime95 is 70
Load in LinX is 77

Does that seem bout right or do I need to re-do the TIM and re-seat the sucker?

Cheers guys



we won't help you... u're competition.. so leave and make a new group lol

just joking.... we will need someone who has the same chip as yours & overclocked exactly the same(as well as same ambients & similar ventilation in the case)... so that we could give you a correct exact comparison.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Yeah provide the OC, Voltage, Fans and case info.


----------



## iscariot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Yeah provide the OC, Voltage, Fans and case info.


as per my Sig rig but:

CPU: i7 950 
Stock (I think) is 3.1 but its OC'd to 4.0
Stock fans
case: Haf 922
ambients are about 15 degress Celcius
Vcore right now according to CPUID is 1.28 (1.31 in BIOS)

Quote:



we will need someone who has the same chip as yours & overclocked exactly the same(as well as same ambients & similar ventilation in the case)... so that we could give you a correct exact comparison.


Agreed, was curious so I thought I'd just throw it out there.


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iscariot*


ambients are about 15 degress Celcius


15 Celsius? That's like 59 Fahrenheit... do you guys freeze yourself out just to improve your temps??? Maybe I'm not hardcore enough, but my body temps take precedence over my cpu temps


----------



## steven937595

i figure you guys could help me out.
my sig rig is undergoing some upgrades, and i need to replace the cooler on another chip/mobo. that being said, i want to know how to can get the adhesive strips off so i can re-mount the backplate


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iscariot*


This thread is huge and I dont want to start a new one so I just thought I would ask you good folks a question.

As you can see by my sig rig I have a somewhat similar cooler. I just wanted to check how my temps compare with yours









My idles are around 41 or 42 Celcius
Load in Prime95 is 70
Load in LinX is 77

Does that seem bout right or do I need to re-do the TIM and re-seat the sucker?

Cheers guys



Quote:



Originally Posted by *iscariot*


as per my Sig rig but:

CPU: i7 950 
Stock (I think) is 3.1 but its OC'd to 4.0
Stock fans
case: Haf 922
ambients are about 15 degress Celcius
Vcore right now according to CPUID is 1.28 (1.31 in BIOS)

Agreed, was curious so I thought I'd just throw it out there.


With your ambients that low it's an ok temperature IMO. If it goes up to 20c+ you'll be hitting 80c IMO.

What fans are you using on the H50?


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *steven937595*


i figure you guys could help me out.
my sig rig is undergoing some upgrades, and i need to replace the cooler on another chip/mobo. that being said, i want to know how to can get the adhesive strips off so i can re-mount the backplate


Pull them off VERY carefully. If I ever bought another one I would attach it to the mobo with without removing the film on the tape.


----------



## iscariot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cmeeks*


15 Celsius? That's like 59 Fahrenheit... do you guys freeze yourself out just to improve your temps??? Maybe I'm not hardcore enough, but my body temps take precedence over my cpu temps


Nah its just a cold winter in Sydney this year. I dont mind the cold so I dont use the AC to heat.

@AdvanSuper: I have no idea what fans Im using. To be honest I was lazy and bought this from a custom builder. Next time I will build my own. I assume its just using the Stock Fans.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


With you ambients that low it's an ok temperature IMO. If it goes up you'll be hitting 80c IMO.

What fans are you using on the H50?


He does not have an H50... he has another one... he's here for comparison with his.. with our H50's


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


He does not have an H50... he has another one... he's here for comparison with his.. with our H50's


Oh he has the Asetek 240mm... Uhhh those temps are ok IMO then for a 240mm rad and such low ambient.


----------



## iscariot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


With your ambients that low it's an ok temperature IMO. If it goes up to 20c+ you'll be hitting 80c IMO.

What fans are you using on the H50?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Oh he has the Asetek 240mm... Uhhh those temps are ok IMO then for a 240mm rad and such low ambient.


Your rig looks similar to mine. What idle and load temps do you normally hit say in Summer Vs Winter?


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iscariot*


Your rig looks similar to mine. What idle and load temps do you normally hit say in Summer Vs Winter?


Running LinX right now hitting 72c-70c-68c-68c @ 4.2Ghz 1.305 vcore ambient is 23c(72-73F)

I've only recently purchased this cooler and these can be considered summer temps I guess. Winter should be cooler because I like my room ice cold with the window open







as opposed to 60F with the AC blasting and a huge electric bill for me lol.

Idle was at 40-36-40-40.

Also are you looking at core temps or just CPU temps?

I should also mention my H50 is lapped.


----------



## iscariot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Running LinX right now hitting 72c-70c-68c-68c @ 4.2Ghz 1.305 vcore ambient is 23c(72-73F)

I've only recently purchased this cooler and these can be considered summer temps I guess. Winter should be cooler because I like my room ice cold with the window open







as opposed to 60F with the AC blasting and a huge electric bill for me lol.

Idle was at 40-36-40-40.

Also are you looking at core temps or just CPU temps?

I should also mention my H50 is lapped.


I was looking at core temps. I just picked the highest I could recall of the top of my head (at work right now)

Your idle temps are somewhat similar to mine, however your load temps appear to be quite a bit lower. Which given that your ambient is about 10 degrees hotter than mine has me a little worried.....









Woo hoo 1000th post


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iscariot*


I was looking at core temps. I just picked the highest I could recall of the top of my head (at work right now)

Your idle temps are somewhat similar to mine, however your load temps appear to be quite a bit lower. Which given that your ambient is about 10 degrees hotter than mine has me a little worried.....









Woo hoo 1000th post










I'd get some fans and then go from there. Try a push pull setup or two Ultra Kaze's setup as intake. If you don't like the temps look into lapping your heatsink after experimenting with fans


----------



## Freelancer

Excuse my ignorance but, what size are the screws that come with the H50? I have one coming and I want to have the screws and the 2nd fan ready for when it gets here.

I'll also be using a grill if that matters.

Thanks.


----------



## leibritz

Hey,

I was just solving the same problem. They are 6.32 UNC screws - 1.1/4 lenght.
If you live in US, UK or another english speaking country, you are fine.

Otherwise, they are ***** to get...


----------



## supra_rz

Hey guys , where should i plug the power to ? to the motherboard ? how can i achieve 100 % pump then ?


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *supra_rz*


Hey guys , where should i plug the power to ? to the motherboard ? how can i achieve 100 % pump then ?


motherboard owrks, you usually have to set the fan header to 100% power though, or you can plug it into the psu with an adapter andhave instant 100% power


----------



## The48thRonin

Hello everyone, new here. I have an H50 but am currently having trouble with it. I have my I7-930 mildly overclocked since it's not cooling well. Right now I have the 930 overclocked to 3.2GHz @ 1.25V. System is stable but I'm getting idle temps between 39-42 degrees, under load it is in the 60's. I have tried reseating it three times with three different types of thermal paste (Zalman, AS5, & Shin Etsu). Shin Etsu proved to be the best but still quite warm I think! Ambient temps are ~26 degrees C. I have two Fans in push/pull configuration and I have them intaking air from the top of case (800D). Any advice??


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The48thRonin* 
Hello everyone, new here. I have an H50 but am currently having trouble with it. I have my I7-930 mildly overclocked since it's not cooling well. Right now I have the 930 overclocked to 3.2GHz @ 1.25V. System is stable but I'm getting idle temps between 39-42 degrees, under load it is in the 60's. I have tried reseating it three times with three different types of thermal paste (Zalman, AS5, & Shin Etsu). Shin Etsu proved to be the best but still quite warm I think! Ambient temps are ~26 degrees C. I have two Fans in push/pull configuration and I have them intaking air from the top of case (800D). Any advice??

your temps are normal, more OC, most i7's are in the low to mid 70's with a 4.0GHz clock


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The48thRonin* 
Hello everyone, new here. I have an H50 but am currently having trouble with it. I have my I7-930 mildly overclocked since it's not cooling well. Right now I have the 930 overclocked to 3.2GHz @ 1.25V. System is stable but I'm getting idle temps between 39-42 degrees, under load it is in the 60's. I have tried reseating it three times with three different types of thermal paste (Zalman, AS5, & Shin Etsu). Shin Etsu proved to be the best but still quite warm I think! Ambient temps are ~26 degrees C. I have two Fans in push/pull configuration and I have them intaking air from the top of case (800D). Any advice??

RMA it or Lap it... there have been a few cases where the thermal plate on the H50 is not true so it is not making good conatct.

Edit: or what OutOfBalanceOX said.... what where your temps before?? are they better?


----------



## The48thRonin

I had it OC'd to 3.8Ghz, but the temps would spike to the high 70's under Prime 95, I took the cpu back down to 3.2Ghz and idle was 43-44 degrees and load in the mid to high 60's. This was with the AS5 which was not cured. I havent pushed it back to 3.8 yet since at 3.2 the shin etsu only improved idle/load temps by 1-3 degrees.


----------



## NitrousX

Official Corsair H50/H70 Club? The H70 is not even released yet


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NitrousX* 
Official Corsair H50/H70 Club? The H70 is not even released yet









Just getting ahead of the game


----------



## ArmageddonAsh

How much better then the h50 will it be, should i wait for the H70 or just go with the h50?
i am looking just to hit 4.0Ghz on my 955be and be stable and not melt


----------



## Killhouse

From observation alone I'd speculate 2-3 degrees, possibly more, though we have no idea


----------



## Magus2727

I would wait the 2 more weeks and get the H70....

Thicker Radiator, Provides two fans, larger/better plate, lower profile so you could potentialy keep more of your Fan<Shroud<Radiator<Shroud<Fan inside the case but using the space over the cpu... wait a week and find out...


----------



## ArmageddonAsh

Any idea on UK prices?
i need to order my stuff soon, i guess i could leave out the h50 for a week and see what the new one is going to be like


----------



## kcuestag

I see the title says "H70", did I miss anything in the last 30 days that I was away? Is it another cooler?


----------



## ArmageddonAsh

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
I see the title says "H70", did I miss anything in the last 30 days that I was away? Is it another cooler?

Yes. its a new CPU cooler should be released within next 2 weeks


----------



## Magus2727

this is the only leak i found thus far...

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...rsair-h70.html

I cant find any thing on Corsair's web site...


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ArmageddonAsh* 
Yes. its a new CPU cooler should be released within next 2 weeks

Is it expected to be "a lot" better than H50 or just a little? Looks same in pictures


----------



## ArmageddonAsh

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Is it expected to be "a lot" better than H50 or just a little? Looks same in pictures

i have no clue, i am waiting for it to be released but apparently it could be 3-5c maybe more cooler with a slightly different design


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ArmageddonAsh* 
i have no clue, i am waiting for it to be released but apparently it could be 3-5c maybe more cooler with a slightly different design

Hmm kk thanks for the info


----------



## Ceadderman

I already don't like it. They're going to use Cool-It's fitting setup at the pump. I kind of like the low profile but the rest of the setup is the same other than the pump. The extra fan would be a nice feature. However the length of the hoses and the low profile setup would force me to mount my system at the back of my 932 where I don't want it. I would either have to pull the 1st and 3rd slot RAM and try to run it that way because the hoses would interfere with my RAM.









The CIVF is a nice board but the RAM towers are pretty close to the Socket. I hope they keep the H50 for those of us in that predicament.









~Ceadder


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
I already don't like it. They're going to use Cool-It's fitting setup at the pump. I kind of like the low profile but the rest of the setup is the same other than the pump. The extra fan would be a nice feature. However the length of the hoses and the low profile setup would force me to mount my system at the back of my 932 where I don't want it. I would either have to pull the 1st and 3rd slot RAM and try to run it that way because the hoses would interfere with my RAM.









The CIVF is a nice board but the RAM towers are pretty close to the Socket. I hope they keep the H50 for those of us in that predicament.









~Ceadder









The radiator is also thicker... by how much we dont know yet.


----------



## digitally

just bought it before i heard h70 is coming out...


----------



## AdvanSuper

I don't know why, but I hate when the hoses are like that.


----------



## richie_2010

hi guys, im just wondering will corsair be making a gpu cooler also, cool-it as already got one ready 4 release looking to be around Â£150 -Â£200. i like the look of it but dont know if i will buy it till i see some reviews but if corsair pulls a bag of tricks out its hat i will wait till then.


----------



## Luass Hole

interesting


----------



## digitally

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
I don't know why, but I hate when the hoses are like that.

true this but i have no other options....

good things to note: its keeping my cpu below 50c @ 3.2ghz 1.4v - load temp
and i somewhat missed my noctual sink...


----------



## FragMasta75

My H50











Best part about an 800D, you can't see the rad or the fans at all when the side panel window is on







Set up is a 1600rpm Scythe fan on pull, and an ultra kaze on push.


----------



## digitally

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FragMasta75* 
My H50











Best part about an 800D, you can't see the rad or the fans at all when the side panel window is on







Set up is a 1600rpm Scythe fan on pull, and an ultra kaze on push.


very nice(neat) and tidy


----------



## slimbrady

i believe corsair is going to try any and everything related to cooling =) shouldn't be long at all for a gpu cooler


----------



## richie_2010

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
i believe corsair is going to try any and everything related to cooling =) shouldn't be long at all for a gpu cooler

going hold out then, i have a tendancy to make rushed decisions on buying things, had 2 of everythin now put another comp together for my sis in law


----------



## FragMasta75

Quote:


Originally Posted by *digitally* 
very nice(neat) and tidy









Thx man, that was my goal!


----------



## joeyck

I am thinking of getting this as my CPU cooler I am choosing between the H50 and the Tuniq Tower 120mm if i buy the 120mm I can not get my top side fan mounted but if i chose the H50 i can get my side 120mm

do u guys recommend the h50 for cooling down a AMD x3 440 w/ a possible core unlock and a OC? / no core unlock and still a OC'ing it? And what do u guys prefere? The air to be sucked in from the rear? or to be pulled out from the case? any tips would be lovely thank u !


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *joeyck* 
I am thinking of getting this as my CPU cooler I am choosing between the H50 and the Tuniq Tower 120mm if i buy the 120mm I can not get my top side fan mounted but if i chose the H50 i can get my side 120mm

do u guys recommend the h50 for cooling down a AMD x3 440 w/ a possible core unlock and a OC? / no core unlock and still a OC'ing it? And what do u guys prefere? The air to be sucked in from the rear? or to be pulled out from the case? any tips would be lovely thank u !

The H50 has the advantage of keeping your computer clean and clutter free, although I would hang on for the release of the H70 which may be coming out soon. It'd be suitable for everything you just mentioned.

I would recommend an intake system (with the air being pulled from outside the case), especially if you plan on SLI as your sig mentions.


----------



## joeyck

well i'm building a new computer for myself with a Athlonii x3 440 and a GTX460 and will SLI down the road, but will the h50 give me adaquete cooling over the tuniq? i like having less clutter and just saying i h ave a water cooled CPU sounds really nice, so what ya think since u have the h50 ?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *joeyck* 
well i'm building a new computer for myself with a Athlonii x3 440 and a GTX460 and will SLI down the road, but will the h50 give me adaquete cooling over the tuniq? i like having less clutter and just saying i h ave a water cooled CPU sounds really nice, so what ya think since u have the h50 ?

Temps might not be as good as the Tuniq but it will be within 1-2C, not a massive difference and the H50 will be more than enough. It's my belief that the H50 tends to beat the air coolers on AMD chips (ie lower temperatures).

Though you'd still want to wait until the H70 comes along.


----------



## joeyck

alright well i would like less clutter and more air flow since the tuniq 120mm takes up the top side 120mm on the storm scout... thanks man


----------



## Killhouse

No worries, enjoy.

~Killhouse


----------



## Killhouse

*Btw, your beloved thread-starter is running in the June MOTM 2010. My project is Eyas, a very small HTPC computer.

Go head over there and pick your favourite! Some great mods to see.*


----------



## ArmageddonAsh

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


*Btw, your beloved thread-starter is running in the June MOTM 2010. My project is Eyas, a very small HTPC computer.

Go head over there and pick your favourite! Some great mods to see.[/URL*]






i have already voted, cant wait for what you said in your PM to happen


----------



## Zmanster

Would very much like to be added to the H50 club! I have a push-pull set up bringing air into my case per corsair instructions. My temps @ 4.011 GHZ are 40 -43C idle and 82-84C under load using prime 95. Temps are high but my AS 5 hasn't fully cured plus I may have put too much thermal paste onto the i7 930. I took the original paste off the H50 because I was using it in another rig. Anyway, great club and thanks in advance.


----------



## logan666

heres my set up


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ArmageddonAsh* 
i have already voted, cant wait for what you said in your PM to happen









I'm gonna solder up the power button and count up the price.

...

Ok counted up the price, I'll PM.


----------



## FragMasta75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *logan666*


heres my set up










Nice lookin' rig man!


----------



## Timid

Can someone tell me how to clean out the screw areas on the copper part of the water block? I tried using cotton swabs but it doesn't really work that well. Also, should the radiator fans be running at max speed or will that hardly make a difference? (p/p exhaust)


----------



## Zmanster

My Rig...had a problem with cable management with the mobo 8 pin power cord. I couldn't get it connected behind the motherborad. Poor quality pic due to an iphone


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Timid*


Can someone tell me how to clean out the screw areas on the copper part of the water block? I tried using cotton swabs but it doesn't really work that well. Also, should the radiator fans be running at max speed or will that hardly make a difference? (p/p exhaust)


I usually wet a Q-Tip with some isopropyl >93% and seems to get most if not all of it after a few dabs and swipes....probably don't get every little speck but shouldn't make much of a difference if it's not making contact with your cpu anyway


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zmanster*


My Rig...had a problem with cable management with the mobo 8 pin power cord. I couldn't get it connected behind the motherborad. Poor quality pic due to an iphone


nice job man, btw, you could always pull out your gpus and run that 8 pin in-between the pci-e slot and the corner of the cards..you know..the spot that almost seems like that's what it is there for about 1" -1.5" back from edge of your mobo and right before the pci-e slots start. so long as you're careful not to bend any of the components you can definitely make that cable a little stealthier =D


----------



## Zmanster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Timid*


Also, should the radiator fans be running at max speed or will that hardly make a difference? (p/p exhaust)


If you disable smart fan and run it @ max rpm, you should reduce your cpu's temps by a couple of degrees C. I'm currently using a push pull configuration and running both fans at max rpm. Noise is not an issue for me but this depends on the fan(s) you use.


----------



## Zmanster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimbrady*


nice job man, btw, you could always pull out your gpus and run that 8 pin in-between the pci-e slot and the corner of the cards..you know..the spot that almost seems like that's what it is there for about 1" -1.5" back from edge of your mobo and right before the pci-e slots start. so long as you're careful not to bend any of the components you can definitely make that cable a little stealthier =D


Thanks alot. I didn't think of that. It's my first build and advice from you guys is always appreciated. I'm definitely going to try your suggestion.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zmanster*


If you disable smart fan and run it @ max rpm, you should reduce your cpu's temps by a couple of degrees C. I'm currently using a push pull configuration and running both fans at max rpm. Noise is not an issue for me but this depends on the fan(s) you use.


(apologize for my trolling but i'm bored =) seconded. if say you're using Antec tri-cools or some other sub par fan like that lowering the setting from max may have a larger impact on your temps than you'd be happy with...

btw I have read some discussions regarding mixed fan configurations for push/pull and in these it's stated that the better fan(static pressure, CFM, etc) should be used as the pull fan while the slower running one does the pushing...anyone on here confirm this is wise? seems to me that the ingress of fresh, cool air would be more important than dissipating the warmed up air since(at least in my configuration with the h50 set up as front intake) you have other exhaust fans to help with this?


----------



## Jplaz

Is it safe to run one of these with the rad in a bucket of salty ice water? (Slushbox)
If so I might pick one up...


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zmanster*


Thanks alot. I didn't think of that. It's my first build and advice from you guys is always appreciated. I'm definitely going to try your suggestion.


np man hehe, I went through that same dilemma with my antec900 case and rosewill PSU..when I finally noticed that open path to run the 8pin(after like 2months lmao) was stoked because it was the ugliest cord in my case at the time heh =)


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jplaz*


Is it safe to run one of these with the rad in a bucket of salty ice water? (Slushbox)
If so I might pick one up...


for sure man, this guy does it well







YouTube- |Slappa's Slushbox| - |Phenom II 1090T X6| (4.75GHz)


----------



## Spacetuna

Hey I just got an H50, I love this thing seems pretty amazing. I easily got my I5-650 to overclock to 4.1GHz without really trying and I'm a bit of a noob to overclocking. I try and tweak it later.

I'm wondering about my load temps though, with the OC I get around 61C on the first core but 51C on the second core, idle and load is the same way with stock speeds its about 5-10 degrees lower on the second core, it seems like this is common with these CPUs, or have I seated the H50 wrong.

Also I'm guessing that the temp is a little high but likely due to the fact I didn't play with the voltage I set it to auto and it jumped it up to 1.3v that might be higher than I need for a 4.1 OC not really sure, like I said I'll tweak it later.


----------



## Ceadderman

@slimbrady... That is so kewl. 4.7 Ghz on ice. That idle temp was insane.









~Ceadder


----------



## Timid

Alright so seeing as how I'm going to have to reseat this thing for the 3rd time, I ordered some Shin Etsu since that worked best originally. Now my question is, since I'm limited to my amount of uses, what is the best way I should apply it? I know for quad core CPUs you should do the thin line method across the middle, but I've heard of people doing the thin line across the copper plate of the pump instead of the cpu. Is this recommended?


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Timid*


Alright so seeing as how I'm going to have to reseat this thing for the 3rd time, I ordered some Shin Etsu since that worked best originally. Now my question is, since I'm limited to my amount of uses, what is the best way I should apply it? I know for quad core CPUs you should do the thin line method across the middle, but I've heard of people doing the thin line across the copper plate of the pump instead of the cpu. Is this recommended?










YouTube- How Thermal Compound Spreads (MX-2 Edition) not exactly shin etsu-specific(need to go their website for their theories on best application) but it is an informative video nonetheless...this and a few other videos I've watched recently have converted me to small dot in center from my previous spread preference.

BTW Shin Etsu yeilds best performance immediately because there is no curing time like with most TIM's. The gap will narrow as the other ones cure...i still think ICD7 is supreme =)


----------



## Ceadderman

I half rice grained in an X pattern leaving the very center open.

Like this...

\\../

/..\\ *ignore the ".s'"*

That seemed to get the best coverage for my Quad.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Timid*


Alright so seeing as how I'm going to have to reseat this thing for the 3rd time, I ordered some Shin Etsu since that worked best originally. Now my question is, since I'm limited to my amount of uses, what is the best way I should apply it? I know for quad core CPUs you should do the thin line method across the middle, but I've heard of people doing the thin line across the copper plate of the pump instead of the cpu. Is this recommended?


----------



## KruperTrooper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimbrady*


for sure man, this guy does it well YouTube- |Slappa's Slushbox| - |Phenom II 1090T X6| (4.75GHz)


That's B.A. What if you just froze the H50 in a block of ice?


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I half rice grained in an X pattern leaving the very center open.

Like this...

\\../

/..\\ *ignore the ".s'"*

That seemed to get the best coverage for my Quad.









~Ceadder










can you say air bubbles?

either a single dot in the center, a line or spread thin layer work. The thin layer worked best for me with the H50, because of its unique mounting procedure


----------



## Ceadderman

Ummm let's see if I freeze water around the Radiator...









Pretty sure the internal liquid would freeze. Thereby becoming a huge pumpsicle on my CPU and would leave condensation which is bad for my system.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *KruperTrooper*


That's B.A. What if you just froze the H50 in a block of ice?


----------



## KruperTrooper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Ummm let's see if I freeze water around the Radiator...









Pretty sure the internal liquid would freeze. Thereby becoming a huge pumpsicle on my CPU and would leave condensation which is bad for my system.









~Ceadder










Mix anti-freeze in with the "water".


----------



## Ceadderman

I've NEVER had air bubbles in that spread. Especially when you stop to consider that the H50 has to twist and lock into place. You're basically filling the empty space with the TIM. Should I post a pic for









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *OutOfBalanceOX*


can you say air bubbles?

either a single dot in the center, a line or spread thin layer work. The thin layer worked best for me with the H50, because of its unique mounting procedure


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I've NEVER had air bubbles in that spread. Especially when you stop to consider that the H50 has to twist and lock into place. You're basically filling the empty space with the TIM. Should I post a pic for









~Ceadder










the twist and lock actually would make the air bubble form in the center as it complete a TIM circle around the air in the center....


----------



## ryanmh

What's up with H70 in the title? Did corsair release a new model or something?


----------



## KruperTrooper

Yeah, Google it.


----------



## pieisgood2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryanmh* 
What's up with H70 in the title? Did corsair release a new model or something?

not yet

also on a side note, can we talk about this pic? lol








i don't think i know of anyone who would build a custom loop for everything except the cpu and then just throw in an H50. lol


----------



## KruperTrooper

Yeah, my bad. What I meant was, yes there is a new model, but it hasn't been released yet.

EDIT* Pic above, HAHAHAHAH. I never noticed that. But I think they did that to showcase their products.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KruperTrooper* 
That's B.A. What if you just froze the H50 in a block of ice?

that would essentially be like using Liquid Nitrogen I would imagine though not as cold and assuming you took anti-freeze precautions =) Have seen a thread with a guy using LN and was able to get above 5ghz with the phenom II hexacore...just saw my ICD7 arrived in the mail so i'm about to reseat or i'd look it up =)

btw using Coretemp my cpu is reading 35c atm..will post back


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pieisgood2* 
not yet

also on a side note, can we talk about this pic? lol








i don't think i know of anyone who would build a custom loop for everything except the cpu and then just throw in an H50. lol

If you have a 480... those things heat up enough that, you need at min a 240 radiator per card.... why go through all the extra effort of another radiator, possibly another pump and res and have two independent WC loops 1 for CPU and 1 for GPU when the H50 would cool the cpu perfectly fine.

There are two reasons I see for a full custom WC loop.

1. Crazy OC that you need a 240 or 360 or bigger radiator to cool just the CPU
2. you have a GPU that you need to stick under water
3. you want to use even slower rpm fans to silent computing so you need more surface area and better CPU block then what the H50 radiator provides.


----------



## pieisgood2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
If you have a 480... those things heat up enough that, you need at min a 240 radiator per card.... why go through all the extra effort of another radiator, possibly another pump and res and have two independent WC loops 1 for CPU and 1 for GPU when the H50 would cool the cpu perfectly fine.

There are two reasons I see for a full custom WC loop.

1. Crazy OC that you need a 240 or 360 or bigger radiator to cool just the CPU
2. you have a GPU that you need to stick under water
3. you want to use even slower rpm fans to silent computing so you need more surface area and better CPU block then what the H50 radiator provides.

that may make sense, but still i don't of anyone that has done this.


----------



## chatch15117

lol I HAS 360 RAD FOR MAH NORTHBRIDGE but I have an H50 for my cpu ROFL


----------



## pieisgood2

that would be hilarious, don't forget to cool your southbridge too. rofl


----------



## Ceadderman

This is not air bubbled. It's not exactly where I wanted it or the right size @ the time but you can clearly see that it had pretty decent contact.










I'm going to be going into my system again soon as I get my sleeving. I'll pull the H50 and take another picture of a better patch if you like.

If I had an air bubble in my setup you think I'd be posting 32c - 34c idle temps and 49c load temps? I don't.

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *OutOfBalanceOX* 
the twist and lock actually would make the air bubble form in the center as it complete a TIM circle around the air in the center....


----------



## Trademark

I cant wait for the h70







I just hope it comes with good 2 fan better than the scythe gentle typhoon.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
This is not air bubbled. It's not exactly where I wanted it or the right size @ the time but you can clearly see that it had pretty decent contact.










I'm going to be going into my system again soon as I get my sleeving. I'll pull the H50 and take another picture of a better patch if you like.

If I had an air bubble in my setup you think I'd be posting 32c - 34c idle temps and 49c load temps? I don't.

~Ceadder









heh well let me just say this: you have found a customized solution that you are good at applying and works for you. that being said for recommending a method to someone else, especially if new to this, your method is much more likely and almost certainly with a new user to cause an air bubble to form in the center, or it may just be you applied a little more on one side while making the shape then slightly less on the other side causing the coverage to migrate a bit towards the more laden side and possibly down the side onto a pin or two. Same can be said for line applications IMHO.
anyhow, for me personally, i'm more worried about getting good, solid contact in the center of my chip, but pea method too can be goofed(just realized mine was less than great when I put on the ICD7).
Now getting temp of 12c from coretemp at semi-idle.


----------



## Ceadderman

12c?



















~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
heh well let me just say this: you have found a customized solution that you are good at applying and works for you. that being said for recommending a method to someone else, especially if new to this, your method is much more likely and almost certainly with a new user to cause an air bubble to form in the center, or it may just be you applied a little more on one side while making the shape then slightly less on the other side causing the coverage to migrate a bit towards the more laden side and possibly down the side onto a pin or two. Same can be said for line applications IMHO.
anyhow, for me personally, i'm more worried about getting good, solid contact in the center of my chip, but pea method too can be goofed(just realized mine was less than great when I put on the ICD7).
Now getting temp of 12c from coretemp at semi-idle.


----------



## slimbrady

yea i figured this must be bugged somehow though..have never come close that temp at idle....22-23c lowest before









perhaps ICD7 has some strange effects when first applied, never used this before and it has only been on for the past hour or so


----------



## Ceadderman

If you're not lapped that's a bug. I've seen something about that in the CIVF thread. Temps seem to be 10 to 15c off correct temp with the 6 core Thuban's. Not sure why.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
yea i figured this must be bugged somehow though..have never come close that temp at idle....22-23c lowest before









perhaps ICD7 has some strange effects when first applied, never used this before and it has only been on for the past hour or so


----------



## slimbrady

so give or take 10-15 degrees i'm still 10-15 degrees lower than I was using AS5...like i said application wasn't optimal but close to it and was getting idle temps of 32-34c. Must say I am pleased =) lower to mid twenties is about what I was expecting from this cooler but had yet to achieve...I also made a few other changes with my case fans as well so I'm sure it wasn't all due to the TIM. One thing I did notice though is that the recommended application on the ICD7 box works perfectly for the H50 since it says to use pea method followed by a twist, hehehe.


----------



## Chicken Patty

PC probe seems to record temps fine on the thuban, mine idles somewhere in the 30's.


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
PC probe seems to record temps fine on the thuban, mine idles somewhere in the 30's.

Thats cuz PC Probe syncs with the bios instead of trying to interpret the data from the temp probes directly


----------



## damric

Hey I think I just found one hell of a deal for some fans for my H50.

What do you guys think of these? They seem rated quiet, high flow, high pressure.

http://cmstore.coolermaster-usa.com/...roducts_id=409

I'm joining your club because there is an empty space on my signature


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *damric* 
Hey I think I just found one hell of a deal for some fans for my H50.

What do you guys think of these? They seem rated quiet, high flow, high pressure.

http://cmstore.coolermaster-usa.com/...roducts_id=409

I'm joining your club because there is an empty space on my signature









I use them and think they work quite well, they are actually only 70CFM and like 27Db though


----------



## damric

Quote:


Originally Posted by *OutOfBalanceOX* 
I use them and think they work quite well, they are actually only 70CFM and like 27Db though

Thanks for the info. I might get them, simply because they are so much cheaper than GT's.

Can someone add me to the spreadsheet? For some reason google docs is not playing friendly with me today


----------



## The48thRonin

Still not having any luck with my H50, reseated 3 times. Mild overclock at 3.2Ghz @ 1.25V w/ HT on and I have two coolermaster R4 90CFM fans in push/pull config. Idle temps are 39-42 between the cores and Prime95 load temps hit 70. I just dont see how it is idling at 15 degrees above ambient with speedstep ON. I do have the Radiator mount up top pulling air into the case, have both fans and pump on 100% all the time. Any more ideas?? About to give up on this thing.


----------



## The48thRonin

Pic is before I went to push/pull config.


----------



## nathris

Ok so putting the H50 directly against the case is a bad idea.

I had mine setup as follows:

Rear grill -> H50 -> Shroud -> Ultra Kaze

And temps sucked, even at 100% fan. The airflow was there, but for some reason the temps weren't.

It turns out that the honeycomb pattern on the mesh completely blocked the air from getting to parts of the rad. The dust clumped underneath the grill, covering roughly 40% of the surface area, effectively sealing off the fins underneath.

I switched to the stock Corsair fan, since I don't have enough room to go Rad->H50->Rad with the Ultra Kaze and my temps actually decreased. The stock fan was actually better than an Ultra Kaze!


----------



## Chicken Patty

It had to be the way it was setup with the ultra kaze. That fan is way better than the Corsair one from what I've seen.


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
It had to be the way it was setup with the ultra kaze. That fan is way better than the Corsair one from what I've seen.

this


----------



## damric

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The48thRonin* 









Pic is before I went to push/pull config.

Try moving the radiator from the top of the case, to the bottom.

I have mine as an intake in a drive bay (see picture in my albums)


----------



## Luass Hole

intake ftw


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *damric*


Try moving the radiator from the top of the case, to the bottom.

I have mine as an intake in a drive bay (see picture in my albums)


same here and quite happy with the results.


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Luass Hole*


intake ftw


this, and this might be the best avatar yet


----------



## Hy3RiD

Add me proud owner


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hy3RiD* 
Add me proud owner









you go to the OP and add yourself to the spreadsheet


----------



## The48thRonin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Luass Hole*


intake ftw


It is setup for an intake, it just intakes air from the top of the case. I'm convinced there's a problem with the cooler and am going to try changing it out for another one later on today.


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The48thRonin*


It is setup for an intake, it just intakes air from the top of the case. I'm convinced there's a problem with the cooler and am going to try changing it out for another one later on today.


its cuz your intaking from the top genius! hot air rises so your going against the natural airflow and most likely intaking warm air. in take from the bottom or front of the case, exhaust from the top or rear of the case


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^@OutOfBalanceOx... "its cuz your intaking from the top genius!" Says the man who uses the wrong You're. Is it necessary to punk people for simple mistakes? I think not.







^^^

Yate Loons are even Cheaper. $4 each for 120s of all varieties. High speeds are rated @ 88cfm, Mediums @ 77cfm and I believe that Lows are rated @ 69cfm. I can check on the last one.

Now if you have your heart set on R4s' then that's a steal of a deal.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *damric* 
Thanks for the info. I might get them, simply because they are so much cheaper than GT's.

Can someone add me to the spreadsheet? For some reason google docs is not playing friendly with me today


----------



## Ceadderman

That's cuz the stock fan is a Yate Loon and the temps are afraid of Yate Loons like bad guys are of Chuck Norris.









Just kidding









They are Yate Loons but I attribute that to being that you more powerful fan was at the tail end with a shroud. Your fan and shroud should look like this...

Rear grill -> Ultra Kaze -> Shroud -> H50 ->. If you have room for it keep your stocker fan for Pull and watch your temps after that.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *nathris* 
Ok so putting the H50 directly against the case is a bad idea.

I had mine setup as follows:

Rear grill -> H50 -> Shroud -> Ultra Kaze

And temps sucked, even at 100% fan. The airflow was there, but for some reason the temps weren't.

It turns out that the honeycomb pattern on the mesh completely blocked the air from getting to parts of the rad. The dust clumped underneath the grill, covering roughly 40% of the surface area, effectively sealing off the fins underneath.

I switched to the stock Corsair fan, since I don't have enough room to go Rad->H50->Rad with the Ultra Kaze and my temps actually decreased. The stock fan was actually better than an Ultra Kaze!


----------



## Chicken Patty

The stock fan is not bad at all, but I guess having it after the grille and rad really hurt it's performance.


----------



## nathris

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


It had to be the way it was setup with the ultra kaze. That fan is way better than the Corsair one from what I've seen.


Like I said, restricted airflow. The air was passing through, but there were pockets of dead air.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Rear grill -> Ultra Kaze -> Shroud -> H50 ->. If you have room for it keep your stocker fan for Pull and watch your temps after that.









~Ceadder











Ultra Kaze right against the grill makes a high pitched buzzing noise.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Why don't you buy some tin snips and cut out the grille, inexpensivr and easy


----------



## Ceadderman

Just pointing out the issue. Yate Loons are awesome fans but I doubt the stock fan is so good that it negates the UK that easily. I love my Yates and would trade them for the UKs'($$wise) but I know that UKs' are pretty solid fans.









If you're willing to dremel out the grill then the UK on the case wall is a better setup than on the farthest mounting point.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *nathris*


Ultra Kaze right against the grill makes a high pitched buzzing noise.


----------



## AdvanSuper

My UK makes no buzzing sound and it's up against the grill. Are you exhaust or intake? Mine is setup as intake.

It's also on the top of the case and my temps are good for my OC.


----------



## nathris

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Just pointing out the issue. Yate Loons are awesome fans but I doubt the stock fan is so good that it negates the UK that easily. I love my Yates and would trade them for the UKs'($$wise) but I know that UKs' are pretty solid fans.









If you're willing to dremel out the grill then the UK on the case wall is a better setup than on the farthest mounting point.









~Ceadder










I'm halfway through modding it right now, but I've been too busy with school.

I'll be cutting out the PSU grill for sure, and I'll give some thought to the rear grill as well. Maybe even making the whole big enough that I can mount the H50 externally









And the rear grill on the CM690 is fairly restrictive, the way the air moves through it causes the noise. It happens with every fan I own, which is why I've taken to using a shroud to separate it.


----------



## hylong

I'm new to this stuff and hoping some one could help me trouble shoot as why my system would not start. By that I mean, all my fans and lights are working. The power switch at the front panel of the case is working as I can turn it ON and OFF. I saw some activity of the hard drive flashing on the front panel. I have been reading the manual for the last 2 days and verify all the connections.
I know there will be lots of questions to be ask, please fire away. i would really appreciate your help. Many thanks in advance! Andy


----------



## looser101

Do you have a working fan plugged into the cpu fan header? Just guessing.


----------



## hylong

I'm using the 2 Antec for the push/pull exhaust. The fan that came with H50 is placed at the top rear exhaust and hook to the (CPU fan header).


----------



## looser101

Do you have a speaker connected to the motherboard. If you do, does it beep when you start it up?


----------



## PCSarge

hmm... i think a few of us should get together, and make a gadget for windows 7, that shows FAN rpms,CPU and GPU temps and current clocks, if you think its a bad idea tell me... i think they should also improve the [email protected] gadget to show % complete fo current work units, and credit amount for the unit


----------



## hylong

Unfortunately I don't have a speaker hook up.
On different note, if the processor was not seat properly, would I get the post screen?


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hylong* 
Unfortunately I don't have a speaker hook up.
On different note, if the processor was not seat properly, would I get the post screen?

You getting a boot screen? Tell us what exactly happens at bootup.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hylong* 
Unfortunately I don't have a speaker hook up.
On different note, if the processor was not seat properly, would I get the post screen?

Really depends on the motherboard I have had a few odd boards over the years that will post to bios screen with no cpu and or ram. Try to reseat your ram first, also make sure that you have the ram in the correct slots sometimes it is 1 and 3 that the board wants them in instead of 1 and two if you are only using two sticks that could be causing the partial startup.


----------



## hylong

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
You getting a boot screen? Tell us what exactly happens at bootup.

Nothing on the screen. I swap another monitor no result; I swap a different video card (BFG 260 GT) still nothing.


----------



## hylong

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Really depends on the motherboard I have had a few odd boards over the years that will post to bios screen with no cpu and or ram. Try to reseat your ram first, also make sure that you have the ram in the correct slots sometimes it is 1 and 3 that the board wants them in instead of 1 and two if you are only using two sticks that could be causing the partial startup.

I try slot 3 & 4(white), then 1 & 2(blue) for dual channel according to the manual. Still nothing.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hylong* 
I try slot 3 & 4(white), then 1 & 2(blue) for dual channel according to the manual. Still nothing.

Have you tried a single stick of ram in just slot 1 and tried both sticks of ram you have. You could have just one bad stick of ram. The last thing to try is to reseat the CPU because then you have to clean off the old and apply new TIM.


----------



## Ceadderman

Try the GPU. If the GPU ain't plugged in you go _NOWHAR_...









...trust me I found that out rather quickly.









Had to pull some maintenance got everything back together somehow missed the PCI-e connection and and and AAAAAAAANNNND... oh dee dee deeeeee









If not that then you probably have a loose or errant standoff under your MoBo. I've had loose standoffs create a grounding issue that interfered with Post and made my 3rd slot slide over to 2nd slot.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Do you have a working fan plugged into the cpu fan header? Just guessing.


----------



## looser101

A speaker would make your life infinitely easier.

http://www.bioscentral.com/beepcodes/awardbeep.htm


----------



## hylong

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Have you tried a single stick of ram in just slot 1 and tried both sticks of ram you have. You could have just one bad stick of ram. The last thing to try is to reseat the CPU because then you have to clean off the old and apply new TIM.

I just tried each stick from slot 1,2,3 and 4. no dice.
Appreciate all the questions so far.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hylong* 
Nothing on the screen. I swap another monitor no result; I swap a different video card (BFG 260 GT) still nothing.

did you try to clear CMOS... that should reset your bios to factory and probably make you get your machine to boot back again

Read your Motherboards manual it will say how to do it on your motherboard


----------



## hylong

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Try the GPU. If the GPU ain't plugged in you go _NOWHAR_...









...trust me I found that out rather quickly.









Had to pull some maintenance got everything back together somehow missed the PCI-e connection and and and AAAAAAAANNNND... oh dee dee deeeeee









If not that then you probably have a loose or errant standoff under your MoBo. I've had loose standoffs create a grounding issue that interfered with Post and made my 3rd slot slide over to 2nd slot.









~Ceadder









The ATI FirePro V5800 does not have PCI input. I also swap with BFG 260 GT and alternate the PCI 6pin. (2 available from the Antec quatro 850)still nothing.


----------



## hylong

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
did you try to clear CMOS... that should reset your bios to factory and probably make you get your machine to boot back again

Read your Motherboards manual it will say how to do it on your motherboard

Cleared the CMOS as per instruction on the last page of chapter 1. Nada...


----------



## hylong

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
A speaker would make your life infinitely easier.

http://www.bioscentral.com/beepcodes/awardbeep.htm

It's getting late now, but tomorrow I'll take apart a speaker from one of the computer and see if I can detect any beep.


----------



## Ceadderman

Safe bet is that it's a ground issue of some sort then. But having a speaker would help sort out some of these issues I imagine.

Well that's good to know about the V5800. Never even had one in my grubby paws. Nor the ka-ching to buy one.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *hylong* 
The ATI FirePro V5800 does not have PCI input. I also swap with BFG 260 GT and alternate the PCI 6pin. (2 available from the Antec quatro 850)still nothing.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hylong* 
Cleared the CMOS as per instruction on the last page of chapter 1. Nada...

Can you test another CPU, do you have a neighbor who could lend you a compatible AM3 cpu ?

If with testing another CPU with your Mobo still does not post, that means your Motherboard is Fudged.. and you will need to RMA that motherboard... then the obvious.. if with another CPU it works(giving you post)... then the CPU you originally own is dead...... wte else you notice odd... you should RMA your whole hardware


----------



## Killhouse

Unplug EVERYTHING. Stand back and take a few deep breaths, then plug it all back in. As you go around to each cable make sure you hear the distinct *click* as everything fits in. Most notably ensure that the 8-pin CPU power is plugged in, it's easily for this to slip out or not be pushed in far enough, especially with an H50 mounted above it.

You should also check your motherboards compatibility with your RAM in the manual.

Best of luck, report back.
~Killhouse


----------



## hylong

I will be out of town for this long week-end. When I get back, I'll probably asking for a replacement board and go from there. Wish everyone a wonderful time with all your love ones, and thanks for all the help and support thus far.


----------



## hylong

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Unplug EVERYTHING. Stand back and take a few deep breaths, then plug it all back in. As you go around to each cable make sure you hear the distinct *click* as everything fits in. Most notably ensure that the 8-pin CPU power is plugged in, it's easily for this to slip out or not be pushed in far enough, especially with an H50 mounted above it.

You should also check your motherboards compatibility with your RAM in the manual.

Best of luck, report back.
~Killhouse


Actually this is the first thing I did this morning. I got up at 05:00 and started disconnect everything. Start to mount the motherboard and all the other peripheral one at a time carefully. I also bought an extension 8 pin (male/female) since the cable was a bit tight. I try with and without the extension made no different. 
I did contact Gigabyte support concerning the RAM, but the list provided is only for references. According to the Crucial, http://www.crucial.com/store/partspe...=CT51272BB1339. this RAM fit the spec really well. I did an extended research prior to settle with it so I'm hoping my choice was good. I guess I can try a different set of RAM first to ensure it's not the motherboard.
I'm surprise and grateful to see you back because I haven't seen your post lately. I'll be back next week with updates. Until then, be safe and don't forget to kiss & hug all your love ones!


----------



## hylong

Just so we're all on the same page, regardless if the RAM is not compatible or the CPU is defective, would I be able to see the post BIOS screen? Thanks!


----------



## Zmanster

My i7 930 temps idle in the high 30s and low 40s C and my max temp after 10 passes of prime95 is 80 degree C. This seems a little high. I've already reseated the H50 twice, using less AS5 and the above temps have been the best I've been able to get to date. I know it takes time for the AS5 to cure but I'm wondering if my Vcore may be too high or is there another potential problem I'm not seeing (or if there's a problem at all?)? I'm at work so the following bios information (Gigabyte X58a-UD3R) is from memory (which isn't that good since I'm getting old):

Advanced CPU Features:
CPU Clock Ratio ................................ [21x]
Intel(R) Turbo Boost Tech .................. [Disabled]
CPU Cores Enabled ............................ [All]
CPU Multi Threading .......................... [Enabled]
CPU Enhanced Halt (C1E) ................... [Disabled]
C3/C6/C7 State Support .................... [Disabled]
CPU Thermal Monitor ......................... [Disabled]
CPU EIST Function ............................ [Disabled]
Virtualization Technology ................... [Enabled]
Bi-Directional PROCHOT ..................... [Enabled]

Uncore & QPI Features:
QPI Link Speed ..............................[x36]
Uncore Frequency ..........................[3056]
Isonchronous Frequency ..................[Enabled]

Standard Clock Control:
Base Clock (BCLK) Control ................ [Enabled]
BCLK Frequency (MHz) .....................[191]
PCI Express Frequency (MHz) ........... [101]

Advanced Clock Control:
CPU Clock Drive ..............................[700mV]
PCI Express Clock Drive ................... [700mV]
CPU Clock Skew ............................. [0ps]
IOH Clock Skew ............................. [0ps]

Advanced DRAM Features:
Performance Enhance ...................... [Turbo]
Extreme Memory Profile (X.M.P) ......... [Disabled]
System Memory Multiplier (SPD) ........ [8]
DRAM Timing Selectable (SPD) .......... [Quick]

Channel A + B + C

Channel A Timing Settings:
##Channel A Standard Timing Control##
CAS Latency Time ......................[Auto]
tRCD .......................................[Auto]
tRP .........................................[Auto]
tRAS .......................................[Auto]

##Channel A Advanced Timing Control##
tRC ........................................[Auto]
tRRD .......................................[Auto]
tWTR .......................................[Auto]
tWR ........................................[Auto]
tWTP .......................................[Auto]
tWL ........................................[Auto]
tRFC .......................................[Auto]
tRTP .......................................[Auto]
tFAW .......................................[1]

Advanced Voltage Control:

CPU
Load Line Calibration ................. [Level 1]
CPU Vcore ...............................[1.26]
QPI/VTT Voltage 1.150v ............[Auto]
CPU PLL 1.800v .......................[Auto]

MCH/ICH
PCIE 1.500v ...........................[Auto]
QPI PLL 1.100v ........................[Auto]
IOH Core 1.100v ........................[Auto]
ICH I/O 1.500v ........................[Auto]
ICH Core 1.1v .........................[Auto]

DRAM Voltage 1.500v ..............[1.64]
DRAM Termination [.82]
Ch-A Data VRef. [.82]
Ch-B Data VRef. [.82]
Ch-C Data VRef. [.82]
Ch-A Address VRef. [.82]
Ch-B Address VRef. [.82]
Ch-C Address VRef. [.82]


----------



## Magus2727

^^^ wow, thats some good detail you provided. Wish people who respond to questions of "what are your BIOS setting for your OC" provided this much detail.

Sorry I cant help with your question, not vary familar with the Intel chips.


----------



## Trademark

hi guys need some help and adviced.
currently i have a 2 Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-14 on my h-50 push/pull configuration..
was just wondering if it its worth it to upgrade to ap 15.. and how much celcius am i going to gain..

I'm asking because i just found out i can buy those ap 15 locally here in california. (20 miles from my house).. so if its worth it ill go ahead and buy it tonight .

thx in advanced.


----------



## KruperTrooper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trademark*


hi guys need some help and adviced.
currently i have a 2 Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-14 on my h-50 push/pull configuration..
was just wondering if it its worth it to upgrade to ap 15.. and how much celcius am i going to gain..

I'm asking because i just found out i can buy those ap 15 locally here in california. (20 miles from my house).. so if its worth it ill go ahead and buy it tonight .

thx in advanced.


Don't bother. You won't notice a huge temp change.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KruperTrooper* 
Don't bother. You won't notice a huge temp change.

thx man really appreciate it


----------



## Magus2727

not sure on temp drop, but you are going from 21dBA to 28dBA, every 3dB is twice as loud, so your looking at a little over 4 times as loud at the 1,850 RPM vs the 1,450 RPM of the 14's.

Can you handel that?? are your temps bad enough that you need a few *C lower? or do you want it?

What other types of fans or air flow do you have in your case? perhaps more AP-14's to replace older or slower fans else where in you case??

Thought about adding shrouds?


----------



## Volvo

Pause. Who's the dude using the TFB1212GHE on his rad???

I have the second noisiest and fastest fan after him.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


not sure on temp drop, but you are going from 21dBA to 28dBA, every 3dB is twice as loud, so your looking at a little over 4 times as loud at the 1,850 RPM vs the 1,450 RPM of the 14's.

Can you handel that?? are your temps bad enough that you need a few *C lower? or do you want it?

What other types of fans or air flow do you have in your case? perhaps more AP-14's to replace older or slower fans else where in you case??

Thought about adding shrouds?


yah im at 37-38 celcius idle/ 71-72 celcius max load (using OCCT test)...

err im using stock fan on my front and top of my case and 2 antec tri 120mm on side panel..

thinking of changing them all with ap 15 and change the 2 140mm fan with better fan...


----------



## Trademark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


not sure on temp drop, but you are going from 21dBA to 28dBA, every 3dB is twice as loud, so your looking at a little over 4 times as loud at the 1,850 RPM vs the 1,450 RPM of the 14's.

Can you handel that?? are your temps bad enough that you need a few *C lower? or do you want it?

What other types of fans or air flow do you have in your case? perhaps more AP-14's to replace older or slower fans else where in you case??

Thought about adding shrouds?


also not sure if shrouds is good idea since my case is kinda small (mid tower)..
CM Storm Scout case is known to have a good airflow though.. so not sure man why im still hiting 70+ max load..


----------



## Magus2727

Guessing you have it as exhaust???

Looking at your sig and with the 480 I bet your ambiant temps inside the case are quite high.

I would either try isolating you air flow around the GPU or see if there are better ways to get the heat from that 480 out the back vents of the card and not just out the card into the case.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Guessing you have it as exhaust???

Looking at your sig and with the 480 I bet your ambiant temps inside the case are quite high.

I would either try isolating you air flow around the GPU or see if there are better ways to get the heat from that 480 out the back vents of the card and not just out the card into the case.


yes its kinda high man...
im thinking of getting something like this = http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835119097will that help?


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trademark*


yes its kinda high man...
im thinking of getting something like this = http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835119097will that help?


I would think something more like this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835114024

or

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811995027

these are large ones, but you want something that will fit next to the 480 and pull the air out of the PC not just blow it around, the card is doing that fine on it own.

Edit: there are cheaper ones, like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835119066 but will not move as much air.

Edit2: I actualy really like that Lian that I found... will have to put that on a wish list.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


I would think something more like this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835114024

or

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811995027

these are large ones, but you want something that will fit next to the 480 and pull the air out of the PC not just blow it around, the card is doing that fine on it own.

Edit: there are cheaper ones, like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835119066 but will not move as much air.

Edit2: I actualy really like that Lian that I found... will have to put that on a wish list.


 or maybe change all my 120mm side panel fan with 2 more ap 14?
then change my 2 stock 140mm with better fan?


----------



## Magus2727

Any thing that would provide more air flow. you need to get the ambiant air inside your case down.

but its up to you... the fan I posted was $41... by the time you replace 4 fans it may be about the same if not more... but,,,,

Yes more air flow through case will drop your temps better then changing to the AP-15's on the radiator.


----------



## Trademark

ok thx man


----------



## 4x4n

I have the H50 for a couple of weeks now, and not being impressed at all by it. My temps are about 5-10 degrees higher the with the Mega. Today I decided to re-seat it to see if that would help. After taking it off I could see how bad the contact was with it. I cleaned the tim and the base on this thing is just terrible. It looks like the finish is with 60 grit sandpaper, plus it was not close to being straight. Lapped it with 400, then with 800, and now had a nice and flat base. I've lapped many a cpu and heatsink and have never found any gains going beyond 800 grit, except for a shiny finish.

Anyway, did a test re-seat and could see now that I have great contact. Hooked it all back up and my temps have dropped 8-10 degrees. Now I'm actually impressed.







I'm using just the stock fan set-up as exhaust pushing though the rad.

To those who are not happy with their temps I would suggest to lap this thing, definitely made a difference for me.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *4x4n*


I have the H50 for a couple of weeks now, and not being impressed at all by it. My temps are about 5-10 degrees higher the with the Mega. Today I decided to re-seat it to see if that would help. After taking it off I could see how bad the contact was with it. I cleaned the tim and the base on this thing is just terrible. It looks like the finish is with 60 grit sandpaper, plus it was not close to being straight. Lapped it with 400, then with 800, and now had a nice and flat base. I've lapped many a cpu and heatsink and have never found any gains going beyond 800 grit, except for a shiny finish.

Anyway, did a test re-seat and could see now that I have great contact. Hooked it all back up and my temps have dropped 8-10 degrees. Now I'm actually impressed.







I'm using just the stock fan set-up as exhaust pushing though the rad.

To those who are not happy with their temps I would suggest to lap this thing, definitely made a difference for me.



This is not the first time... a few people on here have had bad experiance with the surfance not being the best. per this link: http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80713

Corsair actualy wants feedback and encourages lapping and it does not void the coolers warranty.


----------



## 4x4n

Nice to know, but why the hell don't they just make them with a better base????


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *4x4n*


Nice to know, but why the hell don't they just make them with a better base????


How long did it take you to lap your base??

that can be said for any company. There are quality measures put in place but not every one gets tested and machines tolerances change and untill it far enough that a quality problem is checked then the product that is marginal still goes out.

If the copper base was milled tighter and then polished before installed I would imagin you would spend another $20+ on the unit. unless your pusshing your CPU to the limit then the H50 would still work well for the "average" consumer. we are not average, we push things.

A car manufacture could have added that 6th gear for better ratios, or put in a turbo, or allow for some other combination of things thats not offered. but they dont because they expect that for those few who really want it that way can modify it later.

I am not saying that Corsair should do better if they want to be a leader in this type of cooling (self contained "starter" Water cooling units) but there is a balance.


----------



## Ceadderman

Cause Corsair doesn't build them. Asetek(sp?) builds them and brands them with Corsairs logo and Name. Much like ATi builds GPUs and distributes them to the vendors who then add their little quirks to them.

Hopefully the two vendors have gotten together and hammered these issues out for H70. It wouldn't work in my system but I think that H70 does address them. They did add a second fan for the H70 so that's an encouraging sign.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *4x4n*


Nice to know, but why the hell don't they just make them with a better base????


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Any thing that would provide more air flow. you need to get the ambiant air inside your case down.

but its up to you... the fan I posted was $41... by the time you replace 4 fans it may be about the same if not more... but,,,,

Yes more air flow through case will drop your temps better then changing to the AP-15's on the radiator.


or...just spend 140$ and buy an HAF 932.....i have one... top exhaust fans ftw....


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


or...just spend 140$ and buy an HAF 932.....i have one... top exhaust fans ftw....


not sure of the air flow on that case, but either way the heat from that 480 is going to kill the H50 if its used as an exhaust. that is 1 combination that you will deff. want the H50 done as an intake to the case.

Dosent the Scout have top exhaust fans?? I have been looking for a case and thought I saw that it has a 120 mm top fan... or something...

might me the Antec 902 that has the 200mm fan I am thinking of...


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


not sure of the air flow on that case, but either way the heat from that 480 is going to kill the H50 if its used as an exhaust. that is 1 combination that you will deff. want the H50 done as an intake to the case.

Dosent the Scout have top exhaust fans?? I have been looking for a case and thought I saw that it has a 120 mm top fan... or something...

might me the Antec 902 that has the 200mm fan I am thinking of...


the HAF 932...has 3 top 120mm fan slots..1 rear thats 120/140, and room in the side panel for 4 120mm fans or 1 230mm....and the front mounts a 230mm, a 140mm or a 120mm...so yeah... airflow wise.... its a win :O


----------



## Trademark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


or...just spend 140$ and buy an HAF 932.....i have one... top exhaust fans ftw....


i had a HAF 922 i return it for cm storm scout.. 
darn thing is too big man.. if ever i might get the HAF X instead i know its kinda big of a case but it has a good interior for cable management.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


not sure of the air flow on that case, but either way the heat from that 480 is going to kill the H50 if its used as an exhaust. that is 1 combination that you will deff. want the H50 done as an intake to the case.

Dosent the Scout have top exhaust fans?? I have been looking for a case and thought I saw that it has a 120 mm top fan... or something...

might me the Antec 902 that has the 200mm fan I am thinking of...


yes man cm storm scout and haf 922 or 932 have almost same air flow/ storm scout has 1 140mm top panel 1 140mm infront. and 2 120mm Side Panel fan. but i can add 2 more 120 or 1 140mm fan infront (drivebay or optical drive area) so its not a big upgrade if i get those unless ill get the new HAF X


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey Sarge, performance pcs has the 932 Black in stock for $170 + shipping. And it comes with the GPU stabilizer. I would have to recommend that over the orignal HAF since it saves the hassle of separating the whole thing to paint the interior.









If I were looking at a 932 for a new case right now, I would buy the Black for $30 more. Unless newegg has it in stock for cheaper.









~Ceadder


----------



## Trademark

now im thinking of getting haf x HAha just the size man its kinda big... tbh i dont like big case...


----------



## Ceadderman

To be honest after owning my 932 for 6 months it's not that big. The HAF X is slightly taller slightly slimmer and same in length. Oh it's big but mine sits up off the floor next to my desk where I can look into it. It grows on you.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *trademark*


now im thinking of getting haf x HAha just the size man its kinda big... tbh i dont like big case...


----------



## Bodycount

Where is this H70 biz coming from?

Corsair has said nothing about it









It wouldn't be released in a couple of days with no press release from Corsair


----------



## Ceadderman

Here's their release I guess. Had to dig back through a couple pages to find it BC.


















So hopefully this is on the up and up.

But I have to say that some companies won't say anything right up to the moment of launch. Corsair is usually better than that though.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
Where is this H70 biz coming from?

Corsair has said nothing about it









It wouldn't be released in a couple of days with no press release from Corsair


----------



## Trademark

Some pics of my gaming pc and crappy video.. i dont understand why im still having bad temp inside my case i even added side panel fans....















YouTube- ASUS GTX 480,P7P55D Pro,i5 750,Corsair H50


----------



## Ceadderman

That GTX480 wouldn't have anything to do with that now would it? I mean you have a small case and a notoriously hot CPU add GTX480 and serve it in minutes. Mmm mm good. Yum.









~Ceadder


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trademark* 
Some pics of my gaming pc and crappy video.. i dont understand why im still having bad temp inside my case i even added side panel fans....]

Move it to the front drive bays as intake looks like you still have plenty of space up there to me from your video..I have a similar airflow/setup case and that was the best placement I found for temps. Also GT AP-15 over GT AP-14 fans is a very big difference it just isn't 400 rpm it is the static pressure or the ability for the fans to push and pull the air through the radiator that make the 15s a big improvement. Adding shrouds to any fans you choose will help with the noise level of the fans and cooling if you put them in the front you have plenty of space for shroud(s).

You mention you have reseated the H50..did you apply new TIM? If not you need to. If you did apply new TIM what kind did you use and have you waited for it's designated cure time?


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Move it to the front drive bays as intake looks like you still have plenty of space up there to me from your video..I have a similar airflow/setup case and that was the best placement I found for temps. Also GT AP-15 over GT AP-14 fans is a very big difference it just isn't 400 rpm it is the static pressure or the ability for the fans to push and pull the air through the radiator that make the 15s a big improvement. Adding shrouds to any fans you choose will help with the noise level of the fans and cooling if you put them in the front you have plenty of space for shroud(s).

You mention you have reseated the H50..did you apply new TIM? If not you need to. If you did apply new TIM what kind did you use and have you waited for it's designated cure time?

well i decided to use a brand new h-50 return the old one and clean my cpu really nice and reinstall/reseat the new h-50 and did the push/pull config.
at 3.8 ghz oc my temp is good only 55+celcius max load running occt.

but at 4.0ghz overclock im getting a bit higher...
so i might buy me ap 15 and see if that help and add a shroud..
and yes last time i reseat my h-50 i use AS5 tim but its not good enough so i decided to return my h-50 and got me a new one and all i did is clean my cpu and everything seems fine..
i just need to figure out how to improved the temp inside my case i guess....


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ceadderman* 
that gtx480 wouldn't have anything to do with that now would it? I mean you have a small case and a notoriously hot cpu add gtx480 and serve it in minutes. Mmm mm good. Yum.









~ceadder









lol


----------



## AdvanSuper

i7 with an H50 overclocked past 4.0 is going to be hot regardless, however the 480 isn't helping the situation at all lol.

Woops you have an i5... what are your temps like?


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
i7 with an H50 overclocked past 4.0 is going to be hot regardless, however the 480 isn't helping the situation at all lol.

Woops you have an i5... what are your temps like?

37-38 celcius idle and 65-72 max load if i run OCCT for 1hour


----------



## aCe_eXtreME

just got the H50 for my itx build,
i liked the thin radiator and the ability to bend and twist the tubes and no leaks. also seemed nice that they used the plastic backplate so i could cut it up. wish they would offer nuts for the back for iTX builds but i was able to make due with what they gave me









excellent idea and engineering so far.... no pump failures and decent temps. kudos for the thermal compound being good quality, if i didnt know i would have taken it off whew









rock on corsair!


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trademark* 
37-38 celcius idle and 65-72 max load if i run OCCT for 1hour

eww....my OCCT max for 2 hrs is 65C hottest core.....you may have a problem...


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
eww....my OCCT max for 2 hrs is 65C hottest core.....you may have a problem...

I have a gtx 480 video card man u have 5770 and i have cm storm scout u have the 932 so u have advantage in airflow.... thats make a different too temp wise


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
eww....my OCCT max for 2 hrs is 65C hottest core.....you may have a problem...

Instead of saying that why don't you ask what fans he has and TIM applied since you're the same proc, OC and near the same vcore.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trademark* 
I have a gtx 480 video card man u have 5770 thats make a different too temp wise









Hahahaha this is true!

You're temps aren't that bad for that OC and vcore IMO. My i7 gets that high and it's lapped with a little less voltage, but i7's tend to run hot.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Hahahaha this is true!

You're temps aren't that bad for that OC and vcore IMO. My i7 gets that high and it's lapped with a little less voltage, but i7's tend to run hot.

okay bud good to know but i might give ap-15 a try and replace all my stock fan with better fans. i need atleast 4-7 celcius improvement


----------



## tantricfuel

Hi guys Im new here. Here's my h50 setup


















my desktop


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tantricfuel* 
Hi guys Im new here. Here's my h50 setup


















my desktop










looks good man


----------



## Buster

I am planning to do push/pull on the h50. I would like to know if I can use a splitter to connect two gentle typhoon together so I can connect them to the cpu_fan header. Will the cpu_fan header has enough power to power both fans?


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Buster* 
I am planning to do push/pull on the h50. I would like to know if I can use a splitter to connect two gentle typhoon together so I can connect them to the cpu_fan header. Will the cpu_fan header has enough power to power both fans?

yes u can thats what i got right now i got GELID PWM-Y cable adapter connected to cpu fan








heres what i'm using http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product


----------



## digital_steve

Anyone got worse results from lapping?
I lapped the heatsink and CPU and my idle is higher and load about the same
Either i had a very flat heatsink and CPU before i started, or i've reseated it with too much/too little MX-3.
Feel like i wasted my bloody time.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *digital_steve* 
Anyone got worse results from lapping?
I lapped the heatsink and CPU and my idle is higher and load about the same
Either i had a very flat heatsink and CPU before i started, or i've reseated it with too much/too little MX-3.
Feel like i wasted my bloody time.

hmm, even if it was already flat, its not like lapping will make it worse, it'll be the same or better. maybe the pattern you were doing it in wasn't the right one? There's like a pattern you gotta follow to get it even. What method did you follow?


----------



## BinaryBummer

I'd never bother with lapping the CPU if all possible.. Usually lapping the plate will do in near all cases.

Also give it a bit of time to let the TIM burn in.. Hope you didn't apply to much.. I use a thin near hard to spread over the whole CPU then add a dot more to the middle and work it thin too.


----------



## digital_steve

I'll reseat the heatsink tomorrow and check the TIM

Chicken Patty - i used the method shown on youtube that is linked on this site about ten million times. 30 reps, 90 degree turn, repeat... figure 8's up around the 2000grain paper mark.

I gotta say, the time and effort i've put into the H50 to get bugger all difference has basically convinced me to go to a custom WC loop. I'm thinking a 280 rad on top of my case on the inside and a 360 rad hanging off the back and having the CPU and my 5970 in the loop.


----------



## Zmanster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tantricfuel*


Hi guys Im new here. Here's my h50 setup


















my desktop











I was thinking about buying that OCZ memory cooler you have in your rig. How's the performance of the fans....does it help with your DRAM temps?


----------



## aoratoss

add me










Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Buster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trademark*


yes u can thats what i got right now i got GELID PWM-Y cable adapter connected to cpu fan








heres what i'm using http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product


Does it still show the fan rpm if you connect them both together?


----------



## Trademark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Buster*


Does it still show the fan rpm if you connect them both together?


yes


----------



## Volkswagen

Any Corsair H50 and NZXT Beta Evo Owners in here- if so please post some pictures of your setup


----------



## Kny

Just installed my H50 last night, and I just had it installed with the Corsair 120mm fan set as intake, no push/pull. At max load, my 1090t would hit 55c at 4.11GHz and 1.55volts and at idle it was at 27c. I wanted to see how push/pull compared to that, so I flipped my rear 120mm CM case fan around so that it's intake now, and mounted the radiator and then the Corsair fan as intake also. Now my chip hits 57c at 4.11GHz at full load, and it idles at 29c. Both the case fan and corsair fan are rated ~1500RPM and they're both on 100%.

What's wrong with this? Should I set them both up as exhaust instead? My case feels much warmer now, though I didn't have a case reading before I swapped to P/P.


----------



## Buster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trademark*


yes


Will automatic fan control in the bios still works?


----------



## Ceadderman

This maybe?









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kny*


Just installed my H50 last night, and I just had it installed with the Corsair 120mm fan *set as intake*, no push/pull. At max load, my 1090t would hit 55c at 4.11GHz and 1.55volts and at idle it was at 27c. I wanted to see how push/pull compared to that, so *I flipped my rear 120mm CM* case fan around so that it's intake now, and mounted the radiator and then the Corsair fan as intake also. Now my chip hits 57c at 4.11GHz at full load, and it idles at 29c. Both the case fan and corsair fan are rated ~1500RPM and they're both on 100%.

What's wrong with this? Should I set them both up as exhaust instead? My case feels much warmer now, though I didn't have a case reading before I swapped to P/P.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Buster*


Does it still show the fan rpm if you connect them both together?


Yes, but only on one fan. One of the two cables has the rpm sensor wire, the other does not.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Buster*


Will automatic fan control in the bios still works?


Yes.


----------



## Kny

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


This maybe?









~Ceadder










Maybe you don't understand? It was not mounted to the rear case fan at all at first. I had it mounted to my side-window with the Corsair fan that comes with the H50 and the rear case fan was left as it was, which WAS exhaust.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ahhhh okay. That makes more sense.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kny*


Maybe you don't understand? It was not mounted to the rear case fan at all at first. I had it mounted to my side-window with the Corsair fan that comes with the H50 and the rear case fan was left as it was, which WAS exhaust.


----------



## Trademark

Testing my new Push and Pull Configuration running Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP15 only got 5 celcius increase compare to my ap 14 oh well... i might add 2 shroud soon to see if theres improvement.
anyway heres some crappy video..







YouTube- My Gaming PC


----------



## Buster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trademark*


Testing my new Push and Pull Configuration running Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP15 only got 5 celcius increase compare to my ap 14 oh well... i might add 2 shroud soon to see if theres improvement.
anyway heres some crappy video..
YouTube- My Gaming PC


So the Gentle Typhoon AP15 got you 5C lower than your Gentle Typhoon AP14?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trademark*


Testing my new Push and Pull Configuration running Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP15 only got 5 celcius increase compare to my ap 14 oh well... i might add 2 shroud soon to see if theres improvement.
anyway heres some crappy video..
YouTube- My Gaming PC


That's a good/big improvement is that over load or idle?


----------



## Trademark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


That's a good/big improvement is that over load or idle?


from running OCCT. so max load its not a bad... might be better once i replace my stock 140mm fan infront and top panel.. btw thx man glad i listen to ur tip it make sense the faster rpm should be better result..


----------



## Trademark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Buster*


So the Gentle Typhoon AP15 got you 5C lower than your Gentle Typhoon AP14?


yes and yes to both question.


----------



## Magus2727

so you ended up getting the AP-15's....

How much louder did they appear? I know the dB scale but actual perception can be different.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


so you ended up getting the AP-15's....

How much louder did they appear? I know the dB scale but actual perception can be different.


to be honest i cant even tell the difference.. its quiet ....


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trademark*


to be honest i cant even tell the difference.. its quiet ....


That is why I went with the GT AP15 fans I have lower rpm fans in my case and they are louder than the GT's for sure and my GPU fan is definitely louder even at idle speeds. I been seriously thinking of getting a H50 just for my GPU's or maybe get a H70 for my CPU and then one more H50 for the GPU's.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


That is why I went with the GT AP15 fans I have lower rpm fans in my case and they are louder than the GT's for sure and my GPU fan is definitely louder even at idle speeds. I been seriously thinking of getting a H50 just for my GPU's or maybe get a H70 for my CPU and then one more H50 for the GPU's.


i agree glad i replace my old antec tri in my side panel with my old scythe gentle typhoon ap 14 all i need now is to replace my top and front fan and im good to go


----------



## smex




----------



## twizted01

I made a thread on the corsair forums about some issues i've been experiencing with the h50 but those forums seem to be a bit dead so I'll try my luck here to see if any of you may be able to help.

I seem to be having some cooling issues with my hydro h50 cooler and wondering if there is a problem. I put this build together a few weeks ago and have been tweaking things here and there and finally got around to the overclocking. I've gotten my cpu up to 4ghz stable although the temperatures aren't really where they should be for this type of cooler.

My idle temps with ~1.18V on an i7 930 @ stock are at about ~44C.
My idle temps with ~1.25V on an i7 930 @ 4ghz are at about ~49-50C.
My load temps with ~1.18V - 1.2V on an i7 930 @ stock are at about ~79-82C.
My load temps with ~1.25V-1.26V on an i7 930 @ 4ghz are at about ~85-86C.

The ambient room temperature is about 24C.

I'm currently using a push/pull config with Coolermaster R4 2000rpm / 90CFM fans attached.

I've tried:

Using the fans as an intake config to blow air inside the case on the HAF-X.
Using the fans as an exhaust config to blow air outside the case.

No difference there.

Reapplying the TIM using the small rice grain method to the center of the cpu and then seating the cooler on top using MX-3 TIM. - Didn't help

Reapplying the TIM with a thin layer spread equally to the bottom of the heatsink instead with the cpu cleaned off (i'm using isopropryl alcohol to clean off the cpu and heatsink between every cleaning/application). - Didn't help

For reference, i will also describe the airflow setup inside of the HAF-X.

2x200 or 230mm fans on top of the case : both intakes
1x200mm fan on the side of the case: intake
1x200mm fan on the front of the case: exhaust
Hydro h50 with push/pull config pushing air into the case
(i found this method was actually better because the temperatures werent any different if i used it as an exhaust, although the IOH temperature on the board was much lower when the fans were blowing inwards)
1x120mm fan on the vga airduct addon for the haf-x blowing air to the back of the case underneath the video card.

I've read about many good things about this cooler and have seen people with some phenomenal temperatures.. but I'm just not seeing it here. I've reseated the heatsink like 3-4 times now and reapplied the TIM after cleaning it everytime. I've also checked that the pump is operating at the proper speed and it's being reported at 1419RPM with both of the coolermaster fans at ~1860-1890 RPM.

Any ideas on what the issue might be?

edit:

also tried running it with a single intake fan, temps didn't change much at idle, and about 5-7c difference at load temp. also tried reapplying the tim for the 4th time to the cpu, didn't help either. i'm out of ideas and thinking my cooler is faulty.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *smex* 









lmao


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *twizted01* 
I made a thread on the corsair forums about some issues i've been experiencing with the h50 but those forums seem to be a bit dead so I'll try my luck here to see if any of you may be able to help.

I seem to be having some cooling issues with my hydro h50 cooler and wondering if there is a problem. I put this build together a few weeks ago and have been tweaking things here and there and finally got around to the overclocking. I've gotten my cpu up to 4ghz stable although the temperatures aren't really where they should be for this type of cooler.

My idle temps with ~1.18V on an i7 930 @ stock are at about ~44C.
My idle temps with ~1.25V on an i7 930 @ 4ghz are at about ~49-50C.
My load temps with ~1.18V - 1.2V on an i7 930 @ stock are at about ~79-82C.
My load temps with ~1.25V-1.26V on an i7 930 @ 4ghz are at about ~85-86C.

The ambient room temperature is about 24C.

I'm currently using a push/pull config with Coolermaster R4 2000rpm / 90CFM fans attached.

I've tried:

Using the fans as an intake config to blow air inside the case on the HAF-X.
Using the fans as an exhaust config to blow air outside the case.

No difference there.

Reapplying the TIM using the small rice grain method to the center of the cpu and then seating the cooler on top using MX-3 TIM. - Didn't help

Reapplying the TIM with a thin layer spread equally to the bottom of the heatsink instead with the cpu cleaned off (i'm using isopropryl alcohol to clean off the cpu and heatsink between every cleaning/application). - Didn't help

For reference, i will also describe the airflow setup inside of the HAF-X.

2x200 or 230mm fans on top of the case : both intakes
1x200mm fan on the side of the case: intake
1x200mm fan on the front of the case: exhaust
Hydro h50 with push/pull config pushing air into the case
(i found this method was actually better because the temperatures werent any different if i used it as an exhaust, although the IOH temperature on the board was much lower when the fans were blowing inwards)
1x120mm fan on the vga airduct addon for the haf-x blowing air to the back of the case underneath the video card.

I've read about many good things about this cooler and have seen people with some phenomenal temperatures.. but I'm just not seeing it here. I've reseated the heatsink like 3-4 times now and reapplied the TIM after cleaning it everytime. I've also checked that the pump is operating at the proper speed and it's being reported at 1419RPM with both of the coolermaster fans at ~1860-1890 RPM.

Any ideas on what the issue might be?

edit:

also tried running it with a single intake fan, temps didn't change much at idle, and about 5-7c difference at load temp. also tried reapplying the tim for the 4th time to the cpu, didn't help either. i'm out of ideas and thinking my cooler is faulty.

if i understand this correctly you have your top fans trying to force cool air down through the rising hot air and then attempting to exhauist out the front/bottom of the case? you might see some improvement from using the bottom/front 200mm as intake and exhausting out the top and top/rear as this is more in line with how the air wants to move.
Also, how do you have the push/pull and pump connected? If you currently have them on headers maybe try using the molex adapters to ensure they're running at max for now.


----------



## godofdeath

wait wait whats the h70

link?


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
wait wait whats the h70

link?

Here you go.


----------



## smex

or here..


----------



## godofdeath

ooo thanks

the pump looks friggin TINYYYYYYYYY


----------



## smex

yes, as well as the heatsink/head..
i mean ***.. the more copper, the better -.-


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *smex* 
yes, as well as the heatsink/head..
i mean ***.. the more copper, the better -.-

so they reduced the amount of copper?

i hope its lapped and shiny


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zmanster* 
I was thinking about buying that OCZ memory cooler you have in your rig. How's the performance of the fans....does it help with your DRAM temps?

Yeah, it does ok. Plus it's shiny blue and looks pretty. Pretty stuff is always worth buying... especially hookers.


----------



## smex

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
so they reduced the amount of copper?

i hope its lapped and shiny

and even if they didnÂ´t.. its already too small! it cannt get you 40-50Â°C load temps








my h50 was not shiny.. i had to do it by myself und i guess it will remain like that.


----------



## Ceadderman

The HAF X is the updated version if the HAF 932. I have the HAF 932 and I run the H50 in Push/Pull, Exhausting out the top next to the 230/200mm fan which is also set to Exhaust. You've pooched your airflow.

Set your top fans to Exhaust.
Front fan to Intake.
Side fan is fine no change necessary here.
Airduct add on is fighting with the front 200. Once you reverse the flow of the font fan you should start to see better temps.

Now that leaves the rear 140. You can run a 120 in that spot and do push pull Intake there. With both 200mm fans exhausting above it and the flow that you get from everything else you should be okay to do this even if you're running a GTX 480+ EZ Bake oven in your X.

Fix your flow bro, everthing else will fall into place.

~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *twizted01* 
I made a thread on the corsair forums about some issues i've been experiencing with the h50 but those forums seem to be a bit dead so I'll try my luck here to see if any of you may be able to help.

I seem to be having some cooling issues with my hydro h50 cooler and wondering if there is a problem. I put this build together a few weeks ago and have been tweaking things here and there and finally got around to the overclocking. I've gotten my cpu up to 4ghz stable although the temperatures aren't really where they should be for this type of cooler.

My idle temps with ~1.18V on an i7 930 @ stock are at about ~44C.
My idle temps with ~1.25V on an i7 930 @ 4ghz are at about ~49-50C.
My load temps with ~1.18V - 1.2V on an i7 930 @ stock are at about ~79-82C.
My load temps with ~1.25V-1.26V on an i7 930 @ 4ghz are at about ~85-86C.

The ambient room temperature is about 24C.

I'm currently using a push/pull config with Coolermaster R4 2000rpm / 90CFM fans attached.

I've tried:

Using the fans as an intake config to blow air inside the case on the HAF-X.
Using the fans as an exhaust config to blow air outside the case.

No difference there.

Reapplying the TIM using the small rice grain method to the center of the cpu and then seating the cooler on top using MX-3 TIM. - Didn't help

Reapplying the TIM with a thin layer spread equally to the bottom of the heatsink instead with the cpu cleaned off (i'm using isopropryl alcohol to clean off the cpu and heatsink between every cleaning/application). - Didn't help

For reference, i will also describe the airflow setup inside of the HAF-X.

2x200 or 230mm fans on top of the case : both intakes
1x200mm fan on the side of the case: intake
1x200mm fan on the front of the case: exhaust
Hydro h50 with push/pull config pushing air into the case
(i found this method was actually better because the temperatures werent any different if i used it as an exhaust, although the IOH temperature on the board was much lower when the fans were blowing inwards)
1x120mm fan on the vga airduct addon for the haf-x blowing air to the back of the case underneath the video card.

I've read about many good things about this cooler and have seen people with some phenomenal temperatures.. but I'm just not seeing it here. I've reseated the heatsink like 3-4 times now and reapplied the TIM after cleaning it everytime. I've also checked that the pump is operating at the proper speed and it's being reported at 1419RPM with both of the coolermaster fans at ~1860-1890 RPM.

Any ideas on what the issue might be?

edit:

also tried running it with a single intake fan, temps didn't change much at idle, and about 5-7c difference at load temp. also tried reapplying the tim for the 4th time to the cpu, didn't help either. i'm out of ideas and thinking my cooler is faulty.


----------



## twizted01

Quote:

if i understand this correctly you have your top fans trying to force cool air down through the rising hot air and then attempting to exhauist out the front/bottom of the case? you might see some improvement from using the bottom/front 200mm as intake and exhausting out the top and top/rear as this is more in line with how the air wants to move.
Also, how do you have the push/pull and pump connected? If you currently have them on headers maybe try using the molex adapters to ensure they're running at max for now.
this is the default airflow config of the haf-x which was kinda new to me since air exhausts in the front rather than the back.

as for the push/pull i have it like this

push -> rad -> pull and they are connected to the headers on the motherboard. the pump is on the cpu and the push/pull fans are on the chasis fan headers. i checked their speeds and assured that the motherbord is set to 100%, fans are both at 1900ish rpm and they rated at 2000rpm and the pump is at 1400rpm which seems to be waht everyone else's runs at. i don't think connecting it to a molex adapter would change anything if theyre all operating at their normal speeds already, or will it?

also i just reset my overclock and put the cpu back to stock along with enabling speedstep and thermal management. on the desktop now the cpu downclocked itself to 2.2ghz, and the idle temps are at 45-47.. something is definitely wrong here.


----------



## Ceadderman

You been to one too many Julia Roberts movies.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *digital_steve* 
Yeah, it does ok. Plus it's shiny blue and looks pretty. Pretty stuff is always worth buying... *especially hookers*.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *twizted01* 
this is the default airflow config of the haf-x which was kinda new to me since air exhausts in the front rather than the back.

as for the push/pull i have it like this

push -> rad -> pull and they are connected to the headers on the motherboard. the pump is on the cpu and the push/pull fans are on the chasis fan headers. i checked their speeds and assured that the motherbord is set to 100%, fans are both at 1900ish rpm and they rated at 2000rpm and the pump is at 1400rpm which seems to be waht everyone else's runs at. i don't think connecting it to a molex adapter would change anything if theyre all operating at their normal speeds already, or will it?

also i just reset my overclock and put the cpu back to stock along with enabling speedstep and thermal management. on the desktop now the cpu downclocked itself to 2.2ghz, and the idle temps are at 45-47.. something is definitely wrong here.

no, if sounds like your components are running at max speeds so a molex adapter shouldn't make a difference except when you have power management schemes interfering with them. Ceadder does a good job explaining the airflow problem in the above post.


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
You been to one too many Julia Roberts movies.









~Ceadder









Probably... i feel like i was f'cked after the time i put into lapping.


----------



## Ceadderman

It'll pay off though.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *digital_steve* 
Probably... i feel like i was f'cked after the time i put into lapping.


----------



## twizted01

Quote:

The HAF X is the updated version if the HAF 932. I have the HAF 932 and I run the H50 in Push/Pull, Exhausting out the top next to the 230/200mm fan which is also set to Exhaust. You've pooched your airflow.

Set your top fans to Exhaust.
Front fan to Intake.
Side fan is fine no change necessary here.
Airduct add on is fighting with the front 200. Once you reverse the flow of the font fan you should start to see better temps.

Now that leaves the rear 140. You can run a 120 in that spot and do push pull Intake there. With both 200mm fans exhausting above it and the flow that you get from everything else you should be okay to do this even if you're running a GTX 480+ EZ Bake oven in your X.

Fix your flow bro, everthing else will fall into place.

~Ceadder
just corrected the airflow issue. top fans as exhaust, h50 now exhausting to the back of the case, front and side fans as intakes, and the temperatures didn't really budge. still idling at 50C.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *twizted01* 
just corrected the airflow issue. top fans as exhaust, h50 now exhausting to the back of the case, front and side fans as intakes, and the temperatures didn't really budge. still idling at 50C.

what happens if you take the side cover off and but a box fan??? that will tell you if you have good airflow or not...

Edit:

Fill this out also... http://www.overclock.net/specs.php


----------



## twizted01

i don't have a fan with me to test with the side panel open atm but i don't think airflow should be an issue. my gpu temps are great considering im running a 480 on air.. idling at 48-51 and 70-75 at full load which are great temps for a 480... it's just the cpu thats idling at the same temperature as my video card which is just wrong


----------



## Ceadderman

Well remember now, Intel runs at a higher Idle temp than AMD. Though if I did not lapp my CPU, I would probably be running higher temps than you are @ idle. I took 20c off just by lapping my CPU. I know this based on the temps my lapped CPU ran with the stock cooler before and the stock cooler lapped.

Where is your H50 mounted? Is it @ the 140/120 mount? If it is flip it to Intake and you should get to within the temp average of what Intels run on the average. High 40s'. Also if you have a spare 120 laying around that you can live without gut it and use it as a shroud between your Pusher and the Radiator. That should give you a couple -degrees in Celsius. You'll need longer 6-32 lag bolts to do that however.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *twizted01* 
just corrected the airflow issue. top fans as exhaust, h50 now exhausting to the back of the case, front and side fans as intakes, and the temperatures didn't really budge. still idling at 50C.


----------



## PCSarge

electrical tape ftw....temporarily fixed a small leak in one of my H50 lines, i guess i hafta replace the lines at the end of next week... any reccomendations on fluid guys?


----------



## Ceadderman

Distilled water. $2 @ most Grocery stores.









But if it's under warranty and it's sprung a leak I would RMA it. That's if you haven't modded it already.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
electrical tape ftw....temporarily fixed a small leak in one of my H50 lines, i guess i hafta replace the lines at the end of next week... any reccomendations on fluid guys?


----------



## PCSarge

ceadder, i got some on my fingers when i sealed the leak, it smells like there is some amount of antifreeze in it


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


electrical tape ftw....temporarily fixed a small leak in one of my H50 lines, i guess i hafta replace the lines at the end of next week... any reccomendations on fluid guys?


I'm using Feser One cooling fluid, it's a bit more than $2 but I'm not using the stock tubing.

http://www.feser-one.com/site/produc...roducts_id=262


----------



## digitally

bought another excalibur fan to match with my h50. not exactly that quiet but its the best air flow i can get a shop in my area. another choice was the thermalright stealth 2000 fan, both thermalright and excalibur was at the same price of SGD$29, but i go for the calibur for easy cleaning (fan removal)

i see 2c drop (not so bad







)


----------



## Ceadderman

Could be. But I don't suggest using Anti-Freeze. Unfortunately we don't know the grade of Coolant they used. And really nothing cools better than Distilled Water, but you can ask the h2o members for some input and suggest this is the best source going on OCN.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


ceadder, i got some on my fingers when i sealed the leak, it smells like there is some amount of antifreeze in it


----------



## AdvanSuper

Entertaining the idea of a second Ultra Kaze for push/pull. Thoughts?


----------



## Ceadderman

Ultra Kaze if you don't care about dB.

Yate Loon Meds(77cfm) if you want cheap($4) solid performance and quieter fans.

Yate-Loon FTW!









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Entertaining the idea of a second Ultra Kaze for push/pull. Thoughts?


----------



## ExtraCrispy

Hi everyone, new here. I'm planning this config with a Q6600 -

Lian Li K58 case. This case has a 120mm 1500rpm rear fan
H50 installed as exhaust, the case fan + H50 fan will work in push-pull

I want to overclock to ~3.5ghz which I think should be quite doable, and also keep the pc near silent.

- does anyone have this setup?
- how quiet is this going to be? Should I replace with better fans?
- just to confirm, this is a better option than the 212+ ($30 on Amazon) right?


----------



## trivium nate

I love my H50


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Ultra Kaze if you don't care about dB.

Yate Loon Meds(77cfm) if you want cheap($4) solid performance and quieter fans.

Yate-Loon FTW!









~Ceadder










I've already have Yate Loons High Speeds lol, the noise from the UK isn't that bad at all.


----------



## Wingzero

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Ultra Kaze if you don't care about dB.

Yate Loon Meds(77cfm) if you want cheap($4) solid performance and quieter fans.

Yate-Loon FTW!









~Ceadder










What difference did you see from lapping the block in temps load and idle?


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wingzero*


What difference did you see from lapping the block in temps load and idle?


IIRC He seen about 20c from lapping his H50 and Proc, I seen about 10-12c from lapping the H50 alone.


----------



## Wingzero

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


IIRC He seen about 20c from lapping his H50 and Proc, I seen about 10-12c from lapping the H50 alone.


I'm doing this with my new one then that sounds like a huge gain for a few hours work.

Which grits, how many etc for how long did you use please


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wingzero*


I'm doing this with my new one then that sounds like a huge gain for a few hours work.

Which grits, how many etc for how long did you use please










I just bought a packet of each

800
1000
1500
2000

Came out to about $20 something.


----------



## myuusmeow

I just got my Corsair H50, I know the H70 is coming out and I paid full price for very-soon-to-be-old-tech, but whatever. Load temps down 15C versus my cheapo Rosewill cooler.

I had a difficult time installing it though, once I got it on though I'm happy. I have it mounted so the pump is upside down and the tubes on the radiator are on the bottom. If this isn't optimal I can redo the radiator (I really don't want to have to redo the pump though...)

Mine came with a few bent fins (and I created some on accident with a screwdriver...) should I be worried?


----------



## Buster

Where can I get some cheap gentle typhoons? I want to do push/pull on my h50. Is $15 cheap? Is petra's tech shop safe and reliable?


----------



## KruperTrooper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *myuusmeow* 
I just got my Corsair H50, I know the H70 is coming out and I paid full price for very-soon-to-be-old-tech, but whatever. Load temps down 15C versus my cheapo Rosewill cooler.

I had a difficult time installing it though, once I got it on though I'm happy. I have it mounted so the pump is upside down and the tubes on the radiator are on the bottom. If this isn't optimal I can redo the radiator (I really don't want to have to redo the pump though...)

Mine came with a few bent fins (and I created some on accident with a screwdriver...) should I be worried?

Bent fins are fine. You won't notice a difference.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Buster* 
Where can I get some cheap gentle typhoons? I want to do push/pull on my h50. Is $15 cheap? Is petra's tech shop safe and reliable?

Yep, petra's is fine.


----------



## myuusmeow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KruperTrooper* 
Bent fins are fine. You won't notice a difference.

Great, thanks. I got it from Fry's (about 30 min away) and I was getting worried on having to return it and not having a ride.


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
IIRC He seen about 20c from lapping his H50 and Proc, I seen about 10-12c from lapping the H50 alone.

Lucky
I've seen about 4 degrees

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wingzero* 
I'm doing this with my new one then that sounds like a huge gain for a few hours work.

Which grits, how many etc for how long did you use please









Just check the flatness of your H50 and CPU beforehand... it may not be worth the effort, unless you like seeing your reflection in computer parts.

On another note, i reseated my H50 and moved it to a front intake instead of exhaust and i've seen about a 2-3 degree drop on idle and, from what i can tell so far, about 4 degrees on load.

Last of the money i spend on the H50, anything else goes towards a H2O setup instead.


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *myuusmeow*


I just got my Corsair H50, I know the H70 is coming out and I paid full price for very-soon-to-be-old-tech, but whatever.


See if they won't retroactively price match it - Best Buy is supposedly selling it for $60. Otherwise, I think you have 30 days to see if Fry's drops the price on it - maybe once the h70 comes out.


----------



## myuusmeow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cmeeks*


See if they won't retroactively price match it - Best Buy is supposedly selling it for $60. Otherwise, I think you have 30 days to see if Fry's drops the price on it - maybe once the h70 comes out.


I'll be sure to do that. Who knows how low the H50 will go after the H70 comes out, maybe I can use the store credit to get some better fans for push/pull.

edit: do I have to go back to the store to do this..? that might not work out then


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


Lucky
I've seen about 4 degrees

Just check the flatness of your H50 and CPU beforehand... it may not be worth the effort, unless you like seeing your reflection in computer parts.

On another note, i reseated my H50 and moved it to a front intake instead of exhaust and i've seen about a 2-3 degree drop on idle and, from what i can tell so far, about 4 degrees on load.

Last of the money i spend on the H50, anything else goes towards a H2O setup instead.


Possibly didn't sand it correctly? What process/technique did you use?


----------



## BlackEdition

well ive been fooling around with my h50 since June and im just not getting close to the performance that I want and what you guys seems to be getting, I idle at 50c at 3.4ghz and 45c at stock 3.2ghz so I sent in a RMA request to corsair hopefully it all goes well, ill keep you guys updated. Also just to be clear ive tried remounting several times and im using AS5 and when I remove the cooler the paste is spread out nicely.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackEdition* 
well ive been fooling around with my h50 since June and im just not getting close to the performance that I want and what you guys seems to be getting, I idle at 50c at 3.4ghz and 45c at stock 3.2ghz so I sent in a RMA request to corsair hopefully it all goes well, ill keep you guys updated. Also just to be clear ive tried remounting several times and im using AS5 and when I remove the cooler the paste is spread out nicely.

ur ambient is?


----------



## BlackEdition

Right now it is at 28c but I have gotten up early in the morning when its cold and at 3.2ghz it idles around 40-43


----------



## cmeeks

I removed the stock tubes from my h50 yesterday and replaced them with 1/4" ID vinyl tubing from the hardware store. I did this for several reasons, but namely because I didn't like how the stock ones were too long and ripply.

Another reason for doing this was to create a pump performance curve. It's certainly not perfect, nor was my setup, but it's the best we have at this point. Perhaps I'll redo it when I have more time another day.

My setup consisted of the pump pumping water into a tank (my trash can) with intervals marked every 1 inch. The bottom of the trash can was kept at the same elevation as the reservoir (my bath tub) from which the pump was pulling water. This way there is no head on the pump at the start of the test. As the trash can fills, the head over the pump increases, thus making it increasingly difficult for the pump to move water. I recorded the amount of time it took to fill each interval - calculated the volume of that interval - divided it by the time - and thus got the flow rate.

I back-calculated and accounted for the friction losses through the 10ft of vinyl tubing - this turns out to be one of the problems with my setup. The friction losses from 10 ft of tubing at zero static head (difference in water surface elevation between bath tub and trash can at start of test) equate to about 6 in. So what happens is I didn't really get the performance curve out at very low head and higher flow rates. But we get an idea of the trend from the points above.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hmmmm










Something seems off in this. I dunno maybe you might try testing different lengths of tubing to see if that improves the GPH flow/fill rate?









~Ceadder


----------



## Magus2727

What is the point of the above plot???


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
What is the point of the above plot???

It's not as applicable to the h50 unless you're modding it. Normally you would use it to pick an appropriate pump and see where along the curve the pump is operating.

You can calculate the head losses for your water cooling system at a single flow rate - that is the friction losses through the tubing, through all of the elbows and bends, through the radiator, etc. Add them all up and you have the total head loss at that flow rate.

Do that for a whole range of flow rates and you get what's called a system curve - a plot of the increasing frictional losses as you increase flow rate through the system (see the red and green lines in the plot below).

Where the system curve and the pump curve intersect is where the pump operates.










What you see in the above plot is that a more complex system (the triple rad system) puts more strain on the pump - and so the pump operates at higher head and lower flow rate.

REALLY, the point is that one could create a user-friendly spread sheet that generates the system curve depending on the diameter and length of tubing, the radiator, the fittings, etc that the user selects. THEN, the user could select an appropriate pump to go with the system to get optimal flow and cooling. I might already be working on it


----------



## Magus2727

i understand it in this way, however the heat disipation between the Dual and Tripple radiator would need another y-axis plot to see which is more benifitial?

the Tripple radiator may have a slower rate and run the pump harder but may still provide better cooling with all things equal for CFM pass radiator.

Also wont there need to be a life of pump Vs Total Head to see (if any at all) time you take off the life of the pump running it harder?


----------



## Garanthor

cmeeks said:


> It's not as applicable to the h50 unless you're modding it. Normally you would use it to pick an appropriate pump and see where along the curve the pump is operating.
> 
> LOL, with a dual rad and res (which some people have tried) according to your graph, flow rate would be next to nothing with the H50 yet people keep reporting a significant improvement in cooling. Hmmmmm.


----------



## yellowtoblerone




----------



## myuusmeow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone* 
[snip]

Dat dead zone


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yellowtoblerone*












Time to get the vacuum cleaner out. Get it all cleaned up and then invest in a good filter.


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


i understand it in this way, however the heat disipation between the Dual and Tripple radiator would need another y-axis plot to see which is more benifitial?

the Tripple radiator may have a slower rate and run the pump harder but may still provide better cooling with all things equal for CFM pass radiator.

Also wont there need to be a life of pump Vs Total Head to see (if any at all) time you take off the life of the pump running it harder?


These are all EXCELLENT questions, and that's exactly where I'm headed with this! At first, the spreadsheet will simply calculate the flow rate and pressure in the system.

If you have looked at some of Skinnee labs reviews, you will see they have done some testing to see the heat removal vs flow rate of some of the radiators. Since we will know the flow rate, we should be able to get something out of that. But I personally will not be testing radiators to get the heat removal plots - I'm simply proposing combining existing knowledge into one easy to use interface.

Where it gets complicated is air flow across the radiator as that adds a whole new dimension. I may have to go with a theoretical/thermodynamics based model on that instead of lab testing. The lab testing required may just be too much.

Concerning the life of the pump, not sure how I want to do that yet. With large pumps for city water systems and such you have efficiency curves plotted on the pump performance curve. Where on the curve you operate then affects how much electricity you have to provide to pump a given amount of water (not really important for us since were not talking in terms of millions of gallons per day, mgd). Lot of unknowns here... may just have to create some general guidelines here. Usually, the greatest efficiency is achieved at about 1:30 o'clock on the performance curve (if y axis is 12 and x axis is 3 o'clock)

Anyway, gotta head out of town, I'll resume this topic in a day or two... or when I get the spreadsheet well under way.


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


LOL, with a dual rad and res (which some people have tried) according to your graph, flow rate would be next to nothing with the H50 yet people keep reporting a significant improvement in cooling. Hmmmmm.










The graph is hypothetical - the numbers mean absolutely nothing. Illustration purposes only







. I'll create the real graph as soon as the spreadsheet is done, because I too am interested to see how much an additional rad hinders the h50 pump.


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Possibly didn't sand it correctly? What process/technique did you use?


The same technique posted around here and on youtube.
I reckon i lapped the heatsink properly; it's super shiny and flat apart from one little area that has persistent scratches.
The CPU is not so shiny, so i may redo that and see how it goes.

I guess my message is that if you have a decent, flat heatsink to start with then the benefit of lapping is not going to be as large as you expect.


----------



## Timid

Anyone have a good video on how to properly mount the pump. I've reseated 4 times and am still getting very high temps. Most videos I've found go straight from installing the radiator and bracket, to after the pump is installed.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Timid*


Anyone have a good video on how to properly mount the pump. I've reseated 4 times and am still getting very high temps. Most videos I've found go straight from installing the radiator and bracket, to after the pump is installed.


Check to see how true your copper plate it. get some 800 or 1200 grit and see if you have high and low peaks on your plate.


----------



## SecrtAgentMan

Edit


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Timid* 
Anyone have a good video on how to properly mount the pump. I've reseated 4 times and am still getting very high temps. Most videos I've found go straight from installing the radiator and bracket, to after the pump is installed.

The instructions in the box make it pretty clear
You can mount it either hoses to the top or hoses to the bottom
Put the backplate on, put the ring on and screw the bolts in slightly, put TIM on your CPU, put your pump into the rings in the orientation desired, tighten each bolt down gradually (top left a few twists, bottom right a few twists and so on) until it's as tight as you want it (don't tighten it enough to break your motherboard obviously... or i'll laugh at you and punch you







), plug the pump in to whatever header you want and bob is your mothers brother.

Enjoy.


----------



## AdvanSuper

http://www.hexus.net/content/item.php?item=25765

Quote:

According to Corsair's tests, the new design should produce temperatures that are around 13Â°C lower than the H50 on an overclocked Core i7 920 chip running at 3.8GHz with 1.34V of juice. Of course, we'll have to verify this for ourselves, but considering that the older H50 was able to run with the best of the air-coolers, such an improvement would be very impressive.


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
http://www.hexus.net/content/item.php?item=25765

Thanks for the link and damn, 13c lower than H50? Whoever getting the H70 first please verify this for the rest of us.









I might end up getting one if it isn't too expensive.


----------



## godofdeath

i hope the h70 drops quickly


----------



## staryoshi

I'd like to replace my h50 with the h70 and move the old cooler to a mini-ITX rig again







It looks splendid!


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *reaper~* 
Thanks for the link and damn, 13c lower than H50? Whoever getting the H70 first please verify this for the rest of us.









I might end up getting one if it isn't too expensive.









Yeah, but I want to see the difference compared to single fan setup like the H50 comes with and then push/pull with the same fans. I know push/pull isn't contributing to the whole 13c claim, but I would like to see a better comparison.


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
http://www.hexus.net/content/item.php?item=25765

+rep for the link for sure - that's the first I've heard from Corsair on it. That would be amazing! Can't wait for some 3rd party reviews and given the popularity of the h50 combined with claims like that, I doubt we'll have to wait long!


----------



## Killhouse

Great link there, thank you


----------



## pedrosa

Will it have the same backplate fixing i wonder? Otherwise another pain in the ass job of removing mobo again.


----------



## Killhouse

It looks like the same one. The fitting on the pump block looks the same as the current one


----------



## MentalPatient

Can different cpu blocks be used with the h50?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MentalPatient* 
Can different cpu blocks be used with the h50?

Not without modding it into the loop yourself. The waterblock doubles as a pump


----------



## Bodycount

Am i the only one that thinks that is the worst hacked together image known to man?

I hope it does come out in the next couple of weeks but are you guys hooked on rumors and not go off Corsairs press releases?


----------



## Killhouse

I think it's just someone cropping it badly, though it does look dodgy.


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

anyone know which side of the h50 pump is the output and which side is the intake? I'm just wondering so I can plan my mods to it

Also those h70 pics look like a bad sketchup job to me


----------



## Killhouse

Intake is on the right, output is on the left. If you look at the Corsair logo upright.

Double check this by running a stress test, the output will be the hot pipe


----------



## OutOfBalanceOX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Intake is on the right, output is on the left. If you look at the Corsair logo upright.

Double check this by running a stress test, the output will be the hot pipe










Thanks, thats exactly what I was hoping for


----------



## Buster

I am trying to do push/pull with gentle typhoon. I know the gelid 3 pin splitter works, but I found http://www.antarespro.com/1374415-it...ter_Cable.aspx. Will fan rpm shows with this cable? Will automatic fan control works with this cable?


----------



## Magus2727

should give the RPM sense of the fan that is connected to the 3 pin connection and just power the other fan. make sure you header can handel two hans... most header of fans can handel around 2 amps, so you should be fine.


----------



## MentalPatient

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Not without modding it into the loop yourself. The waterblock doubles as a pump










Thanks


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Buster*


I am trying to do push/pull with gentle typhoon. I know the gelid 3 pin splitter works, but I found http://www.antarespro.com/1374415-it...ter_Cable.aspx. Will fan rpm shows with this cable? Will automatic fan control works with this cable?


You will get the RPM value of one fan, which will allow smart fan control







Current draw with the gentle typhoons is fine, but not advisable if you were using some 100+CFM monster-fans


----------



## smex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OutOfBalanceOX*


anyone know which side of the h50 pump is the output and which side is the intake? I'm just wondering so I can plan my mods to it

Also those h70 pics look like a bad sketchup job to me


Killhouse was faster than me^^

One more thing.. donÂ´t forget to join the h50 mod club! More in my sig..

The H50-Mod Club gang is the best thing that can happen to you, ever! join now!


----------



## Ikthus

H70 unboxing: http://hardocp.com/article/2010/08/0...oler_unboxing/

Benchmarks coming soon?


----------



## Killhouse

Looks neat!

Thanks for the link, +rep.


----------



## eternal7trance

Oooh, that's nice.


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Entertaining the idea of a second Ultra Kaze for push/pull. Thoughts?


I've got two UK's @ 3kRpms and it was kind of loud until I added a shroud to each side. The noise level definitely dropped with more airflow.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_CH_Skyline_*


I've got two UK's @ 3kRpms and it was kind of loud until I added a shroud to each side. The noise level definitely dropped with more airflow.


For me the UK isn't as loud as a pair of Sunon 3k RPM fans I had so I can deal with the sound, just wondering what temps I would get with the UK's in push/pull. I still would have to see if it will clear my memory since the rad is right over it.


----------



## PCSarge

time for some off topic hp/compaq pr0n, i was repairing my boss's pc today when i noticed compaq has figured out intel heatsinks suck, and they actually put a rear exhaust fan next to the cpu, and man is that thing silent too

i thought its interesting...thier only duo cores, but hp/compaq has taken a step into aftermarket cooling...its almost as if...they realised intel heatsinks suck...after 20 years...lol


----------



## PCSarge

oh i hafta psot this...someone said its impossible to get 0% usage on all 4 cores... i have screenshot proof of it from my cpu usage widget


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
oh i hafta psot this...someone said its impossible to get 0% usage on all 4 cores... i have screenshot proof of it from my cpu usage widget

That widget is just not completely accurate is all. It is impossible to have 0% on all cores the widget was just rounding down because there was less than 0.5% of CPU usage on some or all of the cores.


----------



## PCSarge

stop ruining my moment >:O


----------



## Killhouse

Now get your RAM to 0%


----------



## TheLastPriest

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ikthus* 
H70 unboxing: http://hardocp.com/article/2010/08/0...oler_unboxing/

Benchmarks coming soon?









That is a pretty fat radiator...


----------



## digital_steve

... seriously, is it the same pump in a small form-factor and the same baseplate?
It looks that way from the pictures.

So basically it's a H50 with a fat radiator and 2 fans?

Bravo.


----------



## PCSarge

thats not possible.... my 5770 is always folding = ram eatage

EDIT: im gonna buy an H70 anyways so ha









1: because my H50 has a pinhole leak in the line and a cant buy a res locally to re loop it -.- (still stock lines, too lazy to RMA)
2: i might order a res, and mod the H50 rad onto the H70 in a 2 rad loop, and possibly add a 5770 block o.o


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *digital_steve* 
... seriously, is it the same pump in a small form-factor and the same baseplate?
It looks that way from the pictures.

So basically it's a H50 with a fat radiator and 2 fans?

Bravo.

Erm no, the pump/block unit is completely different. They have built the pump into the hotplate to save space and apparently make it more efficient. hence the much smaller size.

The baseplate may be the same, not sure.


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Erm no, the pump/block unit is completely different. They have built the pump into the hotplate to save space and apparently make it more efficient. hence the much smaller size.

The baseplate may be the same, not sure.

Fair enough
I just don't see it as anything special to be honest... seems like what the H50 should've been and this new design is like a grab for cash.

Eff knows... i might just mod my H50.


----------



## Killhouse

I dont know, that thicker radiator is going to help a lot...

It's silly that they sell it with fans though, I wish they left that to the end user.


----------



## LogicalInvocation

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I dont know, that thicker radiator is going to help a lot...

It's silly that they sell it with fans though, I wish they left that to the end user.

They're really just adding to the cost we pay, and for something most of us will just replace anyways :|

Agreed.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Yes, but they are trying to appeal to the plug and play users who just want to slap it in and go.


----------



## digital_steve

who makes a 2x140 rad?
I'm having trouble finding one


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *digital_steve* 
who makes a 2x140 rad?
I'm having trouble finding one

Check here
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/...ual-Page1.html


----------



## Killhouse

Black Ice and Thermalright are the main 140 rad manufacturers I believe..


----------



## Anth0789

Waiting on reviews on the H70, then I might buy it.


----------



## Razultull

The valves can be seen on the pump(where the tubes connect), does this mean the user may be able to change the tubing on the pump connected to the rad?


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Razultull* 
The valves can be seen on the pump(where the tubes connect), does this mean the user may be able to change the tubing on the pump connected to the rad?

See this thread

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ight=h50+guide


----------



## Demented

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


I dont know, that thicker radiator is going to help a lot...

It's silly that they sell it with fans though, I wish they left that to the end user.


They're just giving you supplies for a DIY shroud setup.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


who makes a 2x140 rad?
I'm having trouble finding one


http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...-fans-big.html


----------



## ryman546

Trying to get some feedback on what temps are for a h50 and a 930 at stock voltage stock frequency.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


Trying to get some feedback on what temps are for a h50 and a 930 at stock voltage stock frequency.


Quoted from a few pages ago: just type "930" into the "search this thread" tool if you want more, this is just the first I found.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zmanster*


Would very much like to be added to the H50 club! I have a push-pull set up bringing air into my case per corsair instructions. My temps @ 4.011 GHZ are 40 -43C idle and 82-84C under load using prime 95. Temps are high but my AS 5 hasn't fully cured plus I may have put too much thermal paste onto the i7 930. I took the original paste off the H50 because I was using it in another rig. Anyway, great club and thanks in advance.


----------



## ryman546

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Quoted from a few pages ago: just type "930" into the "search this thread" tool if you want more, this is just the first I found.


Guess if hes having problems then i assume mine is. Idle 40 degrees load 64 at 2.9ghz.


----------



## Killhouse

I think that sounds about right but I'm not 100% on intel chips. Try doing the thread search, you will definetely find a lot of info!


----------



## Trademark

ok


----------



## [Freeze]

Here's my Share...


----------



## Demented




----------



## Trademark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demented*












thx bud


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


Guess if hes having problems then i assume mine is. Idle 40 degrees load 64 at 2.9ghz.


Those temps are just about right here are mine when I was stock on LinX. This was with Yate Loon 120mm High Speed fan in push/pull exhaust.

65-63-63-63
http://a.imageshack.us/img137/2074/stockload.png


----------



## ryman546

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


Those temps are just about right here are mine when I was stock on LinX. This was with Yate Loon 120mm High Speed fan in push/pull exhaust.

65-63-63-63
http://a.imageshack.us/img137/2074/stockload.png


Greatly appreciate it. i will be ordering the h70 and and try to put 2 scythe ultra kaze's in push pull...should yield interesting results.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


Greatly appreciate it. i will be ordering the h70 and and try to put 2 scythe ultra kaze's in push pull...should yield interesting results.


Just make sure you have enough room. The new rad is twice as big as the old one. So that with 2x Ultra Kazes could cause issues with space depending how you set them up.


----------



## Magus2727

It would be nice if they built the casing a little wider so you could have the bennifits of a small shroud. a 5mm-10mm off set would ahve been nice....

excited to see an actual review, the unboxing is still just unboxing....


----------



## Killhouse

The H70 is much more low profile so you might be able to get the fans above it, which would be awesome


----------



## Trademark

going to get the new h70 liquid cooling only problem it might be too tight compare to my old setup...
unless the fan of h70 is not that thick.... it might fit on my set up but might hit the pump area......darn it .... heres my current setup if anyone can pls check that and let me know if its going to be ok i'm kinda worried















YouTube- i5 750 Build Overclock to 4.0 Ghz @ 1.336V / Corsair H50 Push/Pull / ASUS GTX 480


----------



## Trademark

oops nvm i think it will fit since they made the pump thinner..
just going to look kinda funny not seing the pump haha


----------



## Trademark

also if anyone wanna buy a brand new h50 www.bestbuy.com has it on sale right now for $59.99


----------



## Zmanster

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
The H70 is much more low profile so you might be able to get the fans above it, which would be awesome









I hope your right because the h50 (push-pull) in my rig is almost touching the pump/block. I too like you hope the low profile of the h70 will allow me to install it. If a 13 degree C decrease it temps is true, I have to get the h70!


----------



## Killhouse

If it doesent, grab some acrylic and build a case


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zmanster* 
I hope your right because the h50 (push-pull) in my rig is almost touching the pump/block. I too like you hope the low profile of the h70 will allow me to install it. If a 13 degree C decrease it temps is true, I have to get the h70!

i think it make sense man they made it thinner so that most guys who already have old push/pull h50 set up will be able to upgrade to h70..
and new customer as well...
so im 99% sure it will fit on top... they didnt made that thinner for nothing...


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *killhouse* 
if it doesent, grab some acrylic and build a case









lol


----------



## Zmanster

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
If it doesent, grab some acrylic and build a case









Checked out your acrylic case - - - Very Nice!


----------



## Killhouse

Heh thanks, neither would fit an H50 with 2 Feser Triebwerk 122's on it though


----------



## reaper~

Some internal testing done by Corsair's lab guy. You can read more about it here. MSRP is $109.

I'll probably get the H70 once it comes out for my other rig (right now it has Noctua NH-D14).










Sorry if this was posted already.


----------



## pedrosa

Officially out now!
http://www.corsair.com/products/h70/default.aspx
Direct link


----------



## reaper~

That new rad looks really thick! Newegg still doesn't have it yet.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zmanster* 
I hope your right because the h50 (push-pull) in my rig is almost touching the pump/block. I too like you hope the low profile of the h70 will allow me to install it. If a 13 degree C decrease it temps is true, I have to get the h70!

I think what everyone is failing to consider is the 13c difference is over a stock H50 no p/p or shrouds or anything most of us have added to our H50's.

There may be only a few c difference when that is taken into account.


----------



## Killhouse

I think my temps are ok, what do you think?









Just kidding, funny bug on Coretemp there


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I think my temps are ok, what do you think?

Just kidding, funny bug on Coretemp there









I like mine better.









Same kind of bug.


----------



## Buttnose

It would be nice if they released a fanless version of it and cut the cost by like Â£10, I would imagine alot of people will be replacing the stock fans with GTs/R4s/San Aces anyway.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

For those of you in the UK

H70 Just came up for pre-order!

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showpr...57&subcat=1395


----------



## Killhouse

Neat stuff, thanks for the link


----------



## supra_rz

Quote:



http://www.hardocp.com/article/2010/..._first_install


mini review of h70 vs h50


----------



## AdvanSuper

And these are the cliffs from that review..

Cliffs...

i980x @ 4.0 1.328 vcore and they set it up as exhaust. They will test it later with how Corsair states to set it up. Ambient temp was around 83F

Idle Temperatures

H50 - Stk : 45/41/40/48/45/38

H70 - Hi : 41/36/37/45/42/34

H70 - Lo : 43/37/36/48/43/36

Loaded Temperatures

H50 - Stk : 77/75/74/75/77/73

H70 - Hi : 74/69/66/69/75/68

H70 - Lo : 81/79/76/77/81/77


----------



## Killhouse

Quite impressive, for stock fans I assume.

Thanks for the info.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Quite impressive, for stock fans I assume.

Thanks for the info.


I don't know... It's comparing the two fans to the H50's one fan. I'd like to see both in push/pull config and then the temps. It's basically a 3-8c difference across the cores and that's not where near Corsairs 13c statements. Granted it's 83F ambient, but I'm sure it would be similar regardless if it was hotter or cooler.

I also think those fans aren't doing that huge rad any justice either. Who knows how it could perform with a proper setup.


----------



## Jelah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *supra_rz*


mini review of h70 vs h50


Is there any other reviews comparing them yet? I would like to see a comparison with both in push/pull configurations using the same fans.


----------



## kzinti1

I found a small review for the H70. 
http://www.maximumpc.com/articles/re.../water_cooling
I think we're all going to enjoy this new cooler!


----------



## Ceadderman

I sincerely doubt that I would see a 13c drop in temps compared to what I'm getting with my setup.

Let's take stock of my system.

Lapped 955 BE that already netted me -20c compared to running 59c average temp with stock AMD fan.

Went to single exhaust fan and averaged 34c with the H50 in place.

When I was troubleshooting an issue went to the stock AMD cooler and ran 39c average temp @ idle. So the H50 with a single fan netted me -5c from what I could tell.

With one more and the stock fan turned shroud I bounce between 31c and 34c @ Idle.

Somehow I doubt that Corsair have come this close in that current configuration even with a double thickness Radiator. Hell, they didn't even add a shroud to it.

I'm not changing from my H50. And I'm not bad mouthing their latest setup. But No way they can even come close to my current temps in that stock iteration imho. The H70 serves a solid purpose to the masses with the space lacking MidTowers.

I've looked at all the pics and can now say with some certainty that if I were new to this system and wanted to mount it as I have mine now, that I couldn't do it in my 932. The RAD is too thick to run 2 fans+ shroud in my 5.25 bay. On top of that it looks like I couldn't mount it the way mine is because the hoses are either too short or I would have to work them around my Dominators, possibly giving up slot 1 and possibly 2.

Looks cool. And compared to a stock H50, I believe that it could lower the temp 13c. But how many of us are running stock? Maybe one person?









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I think what everyone is failing to consider is the 13c difference is over a stock H50 no p/p or shrouds or anything most of us have added to our H50's.

There may be only a few c difference when that is taken into account.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I sincerely doubt that I would see a 13c drop in temps compared to what I'm getting with my setup.

Let's take stock of my system.

Lapped 955 BE that already netted me -20c compared to running 59c average temp with stock AMD fan.

Went to single exhaust fan and averaged 34c with the H50 in place.

When I was troubleshooting an issue went to the stock AMD cooler and ran 39c average temp @ idle. So the H50 with a single fan netted me -5c from what I could tell.

With one more and the stock fan turned shroud I bounce between 31c and 34c @ Idle.

Somehow I doubt that Corsair have come this close in that current configuration even with a double thickness Radiator. Hell, they didn't even add a shroud to it.

I'm not changing from my H50. And I'm not bad mouthing their latest setup. But No way they can even come close to my current temps in that stock iteration imho. The H70 serves a solid purpose to the masses with the space lacking MidTowers.

I've looked at all the pics and can now say with some certainty that if I were new to this system and wanted to mount it as I have mine now, that I couldn't do it in my 932. The RAD is too thick to run 2 fans+ shroud in my 5.25 bay. On top of that it looks like I couldn't mount it the way mine is because the hoses are either too short or I would have to work them around my Dominators, possibly giving up slot 1 and possibly 2.

Looks cool. And compared to a stock H50, I believe that it could lower the temp 13c. But how many of us are running stock? Maybe one person?









~Ceadder










right in one respect, wrong in others i like the rad idea....by the looks of it the pump fittings might be able to be changed (if your skilled enough)








and what ever happened to modding the lines so thier longer ceadder? is there no improvement ideas in your brain anymore lol


----------



## Killhouse

The mods will get to it









In other news, I'm defrosting my chilli con carne on my H50 exhaust


----------



## Ceadderman

I want some.









Earlier I was just going stock vs. stock/modified. If the H50 had only been out a few weeks and we hadn't modified anything then the H70 would be a benefit to many here. Not me cause I wanted mine mounted up top, but for most everyone else here I could see how it would be better.









lol I'm currently in the middle of sleeving. So my brain is singleminded right now. I've got to get in this thread and weed out the information to take the cover off, cause I want to sleeve the pump lead in Red with Black Shrink to match the rest of my fan sleevings. Only the upper 230 is going to be black, so that I can "hide" it, and because it won't be seen pulled in between my GPU and Wireless card.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


----------



## staryoshi

Killhouse! Ship some of that over via INT'L overnight shipping in well-insulated packaging


----------



## Archer S

Okay i knew the pressure of cpu cooler was important to temperatures, but i never thought it could make this much of a difference. I just opened up my case and tightened each of the 4 screws on the H50 by 1/4 of a turn. My load temps dropped 5 degrees C!!!!!! sorry no picture to validate, i didn't take a before shot i didn't think it would actually change this much. Before i was pretty happy with the H50, now im downright loving the thing.

Im thinking of opening the case up again and tightening the screws another 1/4 turn, but im hesitant, they're already very tight.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 







I want some.









Earlier I was just going stock vs. stock/modified. If the H50 had only been out a few weeks and we hadn't modified anything then the H70 would be a benefit to many here. Not me cause I wanted mine mounted up top, but for most everyone else here I could see how it would be better.









lol I'm currently in the middle of sleeving. So my brain is singleminded right now. I've got to get in this thread and weed out the information to take the cover off, cause I want to sleeve the pump lead in Red with Black Shrink to match the rest of my fan sleevings. Only the upper 230 is going to be black, so that I can "hide" it, and because it won't be seen pulled in between my GPU and Wireless card.









~Ceadder









I think you're talking about something similar to what I did with my pump cable? This was the best image I could find. I tucked away a lot of it in the pump casing









(also slight lol at mods deleting the chilli con carne







)










-------------------------------------------
EDIT:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Archer S* 
Okay i knew the pressure of cpu cooler was important to temperatures, but i never thought it could make this much of a difference. I just opened up my case and tightened each of the 4 screws on the H50 by 1/4 of a turn. My load temps dropped 5 degrees C!!!!!! sorry no picture to validate, i didn't take a before shot i didn't think it would actually change this much. Before i was pretty happy with the H50, now im downright loving the thing.

Im thinking of opening the case up again and tightening the screws another 1/4 turn, but im hesitant, they're already very tight.

I think after seeing that drop you wont see any more. I have a feeling your block might have been a little loose before.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Archer S* 
Okay i knew the pressure of cpu cooler was important to temperatures, but i never thought it could make this much of a difference. I just opened up my case and tightened each of the 4 screws on the H50 by 1/4 of a turn. My load temps dropped 5 degrees C!!!!!! sorry no picture to validate, i didn't take a before shot i didn't think it would actually change this much. Before i was pretty happy with the H50, now im downright loving the thing.

Im thinking of opening the case up again and tightening the screws another 1/4 turn, but im hesitant, they're already very tight.

I've seen huge differences as well. I had that happen once but backwards. I had it way too tight and loosening the screws up a bit dropped my load temps like 10Âºc.


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Archer S* 
Okay i knew the pressure of cpu cooler was important to temperatures, but i never thought it could make this much of a difference. I just opened up my case and tightened each of the 4 screws on the H50 by 1/4 of a turn. My load temps dropped 5 degrees C!!!!!! sorry no picture to validate, i didn't take a before shot i didn't think it would actually change this much. Before i was pretty happy with the H50, now im downright loving the thing.

Im thinking of opening the case up again and tightening the screws another 1/4 turn, but im hesitant, they're already very tight.

Your post makes me wanna open up my case and tighten those 4 screws. lol But I'm afraid I might strip them.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup, that's exactly what I want to do. I've got the unit off right now, though I need to clean off the TIM. My TIM was so thick that it reminds me of the stock TIM only less coverage.









I need to take some pics cause someone was sure that my application would leave airbubbles or pockets. When I pulled the H50 it was clear I have no such issues. So I'll be doing that before I clean and sleeve it.









~Ceadder









PS agree with the LOL about Con Carne pic, but they probably felt that was off topic.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
I think you're talking about something similar to what I did with my pump cable? This was the best image I could find. I tucked away a lot of it in the pump casing









(also slight lol at mods deleting the chilli con carne







)










-------------------------------------------
EDIT:

I think after seeing that drop you wont see any more. I have a feeling your block might have been a little loose before.


----------



## Archer S

Quote:

I've seen huge differences as well. I had that happen once but backwards. I had it way too tight and loosening the screws up a bit dropped my load temps like 10Âºc.
Okay im definitely not going to tighten it anymore then, no need to be greedy, im happy with 56C load using the stock fan and an antec 3 speed, and with arctic silver under it, not shin etsu)

Getting some GTs soon, hope to get my load down to around 50, and then OC to 4ghz


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Archer S*


Okay im definitely not going to tighten it anymore then, no need to be greedy, im happy with 56C load using the stock fan and an antec 3 speed, and with arctic silver under it, not shin etsu)

Getting some GTs soon, hope to get my load down to around 50, and then OC to 4ghz


I mean it won't hurt to try, put it under load and tighten a bit at a time, if you see your temps go up then just back it out. Would only take a minute







I mean it's worth a shot, your current temp is good, but what if it can be better by just turning four screws?


----------



## Archer S

are you saying, i should try to fiddle with the screws while the computer is on, and running a stress test?

Sounds dangerous. lol sorry im still a noob. If that is what you meant, and it is perfectly safe, then sure i will try it.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Archer S* 
are you saying, i should try to fiddle with the screws while the computer is on, and running a stress test?

Sounds dangerous. lol sorry im still a noob. If that is what you meant, and it is perfectly safe, then sure i will try it.

Just load up a stress test so you can see the effect or you can do it on idle, should see the results the same way. Just turn one screw at a time a little bit, if they start feeling tooo tight then stop or if you see a bit of increase in temps. But if you tighten a bit more and see the temp drop a degree or so then you know you can probably tighten up just a tad more. Just logic dude, nothing to be scared of as long as you don't go crazy turning the screw.


----------



## Archer S

alrighty then. gimme a couple of minutes, adjusting the screws.


----------



## Archer S

nope no change at all. in fact 1-2 degree worse temps now, my room probably got a bit hotter.

Note to self, dont stick fingers in spinning fans... that hurt.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Archer S*


nope no change at all. in fact 1-2 degree worse temps now, my room probably got a bit hotter.

Note to self, dont stick fingers in spinning fans... that hurt.


Ouch! Well just back them out what you tightened them and you are good to go









See, wasn't that bad


----------



## Archer S

yeah i backed them out a little, and was still getting the same temps, 1 degree more than before. then i noticed my ambient was a degree hotter than usual too, so its still good.

On the bright side this temp drop was enough to make me oc to 3.5ghz, loading at 61ish right now, still running prime to test stability. Im not going to be pushing 4Ghz until i get my gentle typhoons. i like to keep my cpu below (or around) 60C at load


----------



## PCSarge

what are the ID and OD measurements for the tubing on the H50...saturday im going shopping for parts


----------



## Killhouse

1/4" ID and 3/8" OD









According to:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8385649


----------



## PCSarge

ty killhouse ...now the fun of finding a res locally...everything else i can get... i may manufacture my own res god knows


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


ty killhouse ...now the fun of finding a res locally...everything else i can get... i may manufacture my own res god knows


http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.p...roducts_id=293

http://www.directcanada.com/products...cture=SWIFTECH


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Archer S*


yeah i backed them out a little, and was still getting the same temps, 1 degree more than before. then i noticed my ambient was a degree hotter than usual too, so its still good.

On the bright side this temp drop was enough to make me oc to 3.5ghz, loading at 61ish right now, still running prime to test stability. Im not going to be pushing 4Ghz until i get my gentle typhoons. i like to keep my cpu below (or around) 60C at load


Any temp drop helps bro


----------



## BBG

Just my H50 and installed it but the corsair fan is really loud IMO. I tried changing the speed in the bios and speedfan. should I just replace the fan? I'm getting idle temps of 38-40 degrees celsius. (stock i7 930)


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BBG*


Just my H50 and installed it but the corsair fan is really loud IMO. I tried changing the speed in the bios and speedfan. should I just replace the fan? I'm getting idle temps of 38-40 degrees celsius. (stock i7 930)


Loud? Damn, maybe it's because I have two rigs crunching and folding and I am used to the fan noise, but I didn't find it loud at all. Anyhow, just turn it down.


----------



## BBG

I tried but nothing works. the fan starts to get loud after windows starts.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BBG*


I tried but nothing works. the fan starts to get loud after windows starts.


Try downloading AMD Overdrive and it has fan control, maybe you can control it in windows by there.


----------



## Ekemeister

Lol at the h50 leaking forum link from OP. The h50 doesn't have enough liquid to short the mobo northbridge, gpu, ram, AND psu. LOL, he doesn't even have a username either.


----------



## Magus2727

Hummm... how can you tell with every thing else shorted out that its the NB that is fried???

in theory say it leaks and causes some shorting in the 24 pin then it could fry the MB, Memory, CPU, and if a crappy PSU with no OC then could fry that also... it would have to be a very much a stretch.

Well Corsair will warranty all the other parts wont they? If its a legit claim...


----------



## Mongol

Hi everyone...new to the forums...add me to the H50 club.


















Haven't started OCing just yet, but I will soon!


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by ***********


Hi everyone...new to the forums...add me to the H50 club.








Haven't started OCing just yet, but I will soon!


Welcome to OCN

Add yourself on the 1st page


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay, getting close to sleeving the Pump. Anyone know which two screws to remove to separate the housing?









I won't be going any further than that, just need the cable to match the rest of the system.









~Ceadder


----------



## Archer S

Quote:



Anyone know which two screws to remove to separate the housing?


http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ide-noobs.html








scroll about half way down, you will see how the thing comes apart (its the left screw)


----------



## Mongol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Welcome to OCN

Add yourself on the 1st page










Thanks...and done!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Okay, getting close to sleeving the Pump. Anyone know which two screws to remove to separate the housing?









I won't be going any further than that, just need the cable to match the rest of the system.









~Ceadder










You can just push it down the gap without removing the housing if you prefer


----------



## Ceadderman

Thanks guys. Appreciate the insight to this thing.

All done with the H50.









Word of warning however, it's two screws and they're polar opposites of each other.









~Ceadder


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Thanks guys. Appreciate the insight to this thing.

All done with the H50.









Word of warning however, it's two screws and they're polar opposites of each other.









~Ceadder










Pics or it didnt happen


----------



## Archer S

Quote:



Pics or it didnt happen


^LMAO

I too would like to see some pics.


----------



## Ceadderman

lol, I'll have those soon as my tower is back up. I refuse to lug the Netbook over to the kitchen table to hook up the webcam to take one lone pic for proof.









But man does it look baddass. I used Red Sleeving and black shrink on it. I also lined the spiral twist cables with black electrical tape so there is no see through.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Pics or it didnt happen


----------



## PCSarge

well, i sadly am also moving on from the H50, it did its job well, gonna do full on WC and though you may not approve, i have decided to use a thermaltake product (eww i know) but the Bigwater 760i is my next step into the watercooling section....i have officially butchered my H50, and stolen the rad as a second for my loop, i dont bid you goodbye though, ill always be around, as many others are, and i thank corsair sincerely for my first little get my feet wet experiment...now my goal is silence and performance, i am tired of my R4's making so much noise, and i would love to get to 30C or below on load temps








i bid the H50 farwell, i will still be around to answer questions and chat


----------



## Ceadderman

Cooooool Sarge, can't wait to see how you fare. It's gonna be a bit for me, but I'm headed that direction as well.









~Ceadder


----------



## Maytan

I just found an H50 at Best Buy on sale for $60, so I picked it up to upgrade from my 212+. I have a question, though. The OP says most people choose to mount the radiator in an exhaust configuration, but I don't know if I should do so. I'm running CF 5770's, but might be sidegrading (just about) to a 470 if I continue to have troubles with these cards.

As soon as I order my TIM to reseat the heatsinks on my card(s), I'll be running some heavy clocks on my babies here. Do you think all that heat will be too detrimental to my CPU temps to mount in exhaust? Should I just seat them as intake and blow all that hot air into my case? This is probably personal preference, but I'm bad at decision making. :\\


----------



## Ceadderman

No. Mounting it in exhaust will actually keep the temps reasonably cool. Just get yourself a couple of decent RPM 120s' mount them in Push/Pull with a shroud at the Push side and you should be fine.









Query. What driver are you running your 5770s' on? If you're having problems you might just roll back to 10.5 if you haven't already.









~Ceadder


----------



## Maytan

^Thanks for the response! I'm going to use two Yate Loon Highs in Push/Pull. I could probably use the spare Corsair fan that came with the H50 to make a shroud, I'll consider it.

I tried 10.5, 10.4, 10.7, and even 10.6. Same problem every time. I tried a multitude of other things to fix them as well, no dice. (I can give you the list, if you want. I posted it in another topic.) The end result is, I think one of my cards just isn't working properly in Crossfire. For some reason, I never thought to test the second card by itself; so I'm thinking maybe it's defective somehow.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Sorry if I'm asking a question that has already been answered, I've been out of the loop a bit on this very active thread. Does anybody have a release date on the H70 yet?


----------



## Jay28

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Sorry if I'm asking a question that has already been answered, I've been out of the loop a bit on this very active thread. Does anybody have a release date on the H70 yet?


 According to Anandtech it will be released next week.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jay28*


According to Anandtech it will be released next week.


Awesome, I'll def. have to keep my eye on one, really would like to try it out.


----------



## Ceadderman

I think that we should note that the only difference between what we're running now and the H70 is a shroud and thicker Rad. Everything else is virtually the same. So if you already spent money on high performance fans(I did) and made a shroud(I did) then the only benefit you *may* like is the thicker Rad. Some people won't even be able to run the thicker Rad w/shroud and 2 fans.

I'm not trying to poop on anyone's party. Just pointing out that the H70 will cost more than the H50 you already gotz. I doubt that anyone would buy a used H50(especially when the H70 is available) unless you took a loss on the H50. I suggest just running the H50 into the ground and then buying the H70 after the warranty on the H50 has run its course.

Just my









~Ceadder


----------



## ben h

o.0 i just added a shroud to my h50

i heard the h70 waz gunna be 110$
h50 + fans is still less then that


----------



## Jelah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ben h* 
o.0 i just added a shroud to my h50

i heard the h70 waz gunna be 110$
h50 + fans is still less then that

You can pick up a used h50 for $40-$45 right now, that might even go down a bit once the h70 is actually released.
Grab a new Swiftech MCRes Micro rev2 for maybe $15 used (just a guess, since they go for $20 new)
Find a cheap 120mm rad maybe somewhere around $30 (Swiftech MCR120 - $36 new)
Total: $90, fans, and tubing might take you over that though


----------



## ben h

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jelah* 
You can pick up a used h50 for $40-$45 right now, that might even go down a bit once the h70 is actually released.
Grab a new Swiftech MCRes Micro rev2 for maybe $15 used (just a guess, since they go for $20 new)
Find a cheap 120mm rad maybe somewhere around $30 (Swiftech MCR120 - $36 new)
Total: $90, fans, and tubing might take you over that though

ya i waz kinda thinking about doing that
well just gettin a 240 rad and puting that in the top of my case with p/p


----------



## Jelah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ben h* 
ya i waz kinda thinking about doing that
well just gettin a 240 rad and puting that in the top of my case with p/p

Yeah, I'm thinking that's what I'm going to do as well. I'm just hoping H50 price drops even more when the H70 is released, just like it did when it was announced







Cant see it going down too much further though


----------



## ben h

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jelah* 
Yeah, I'm thinking that's what I'm going to do as well. I'm just hoping H50 price drops even more when the H70 is released, just like it did when it was announced







Cant see it going down too much further though

ya it can only get so cheap
but i already got my h50


----------



## PCSarge

well within about 2-3 hours im going to get my next step up as i mentioned last night, ill take pics for you ceadder, since your interested, its gonna be dual 120mm rads, one in the actual 760i unit, and the H50 rad to kill extra heat







i feel good already







though ive gutted my case for a dust cleaning anyways (which makes it easier to install my cpu block) ill eventually get a block for my 5770 aswell...the stock fan is like a win tunnel if i keep my OC at 960/1400...as i said, in this project, performance and silence are golden


----------



## leibritz

Hey,

finally able to share mine







Nice to be here.


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leibritz* 
Hey,

finally able to share mine







Nice to be here.

Nice rig. Welcome to the club.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Nice rig and very nice shot leibritz








Welcome.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
I think that we should note that the only difference between what we're running now and the H70 is a shroud and thicker Rad. Everything else is virtually the same. So if you already spent money on high performance fans(I did) and made a shroud(I did) then the only benefit you *may* like is the thicker Rad. Some people won't even be able to run the thicker Rad w/shroud and 2 fans.

I'm not trying to poop on anyone's party. Just pointing out that the H70 will cost more than the H50 you already gotz. I doubt that anyone would buy a used H50(especially when the H70 is available) unless you took a loss on the H50. I suggest just running the H50 into the ground and then buying the H70 after the warranty on the H50 has run its course.

Just my









~Ceadder









Very true. My rad setup is already huge. I've got 25mm shrouds and 38mm Ultra Kazes on each side. There's no way it would all fit with a thicker rad.


----------



## Chicken Patty

superhead, got a pic of that? Sounds massive dude


----------



## PCSarge

there will always be a piece of my H50 in my pc, for i am using its rad and ahh the silence of watercooling without dual fans on a rad is so...relaxing

EDIT: pics will follow tonight when i can get better lighting


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *superhead91* 
Very true. My rad setup is already huge. I've got 25mm shrouds and 38mm Ultra Kazes on each side. There's no way it would all fit with a thicker rad.

Note that the pump is much more low profile, you might be able to fit fans above it and not be restricted by the block/pump like you would be with an H50. This will depend on your case though.


----------



## PCSarge

god i already miss my little H50, but this full on system is so quiet...only 2 fans xD one on each rad, pump makes no noise and moves 500L/H

the little H50 is probably gonna turn into my VGA cooler... if i dont buy a block for my 5770 shortly


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice. Post your setup in the HAF thread though. That way it's at least on topic with everthin else we do there.









I gotta scrimp and save for mine so it's gonna be at least a year but I'll get there.
















Considering I'm already up around the 2 Grand mark for my system, that's pretty reasonable. I coulda done Cardboard bench and single itemed my drives and gone without sleeving and paint and H50/fans/lapping but it wouldn't have been the same.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


god i already miss my little H50, but this full on sisyen is so quiet...only 2 fans xD one on each rad, pump makes no noise and moves 500L/H

the little H50 is probably gonna turn into my VGA cooler... if i dont buy a block for my 5770 shortly


----------



## PCSarge

not the best quality, due to my phone, but heres some pics....you be the judge

EDIT: dont mind the P4 power wire running up the front of my mobo, its temporary till i get a new modular PSU


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


Very true. My rad setup is already huge. I've got 25mm shrouds and 38mm Ultra Kazes on each side. There's no way it would all fit with a thicker rad.


I have mine mounted in the drivebays in my HAF932 with 2x25mm shrouds, 2x38mm SA H1011 in push/pull as intake. Exactly the same as PCsarg's old setup!
I will have enough space for the H70 with my current fan/shroud setup, but ofc I am not going to fork out 80 odd quid until I see some solid benchmarks and some decent temp drops. 
Not that I have any issues with my temps, always idling around 32, 32, 32, 36.
But to see some sort of a reasonable drop of say 5-10c (meh I wish) from the H70 than I shall prob treat meself to it


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*


I have mine mounted in the drivebays in my HAF932 with 2x25mm shrouds, 2x38mm SA H1011 in push/pull as intake. Exactly the same as PCsarg's old setup!
I will have enough space for the H70 with my current fan/shroud setup, but ofc I am not going to fork out 80 odd quid until I see some solid benchmarks and some decent temp drops. 
Not that I have any issues with my temps, always idling around 32, 32, 32, 36.
But to see some sort of a reasonable drop of say 5-10c (meh I wish) from the H70 than I shall prob treat meself to it










reactor im flattered, you actually remebered me xD


----------



## SightUp

So, how about that H70?


----------



## slimbrady

so I was pretty stupid early this morning and was getting frustrated with trying to lap the H50(granted i did have 2fans and 2shrouds on it, lol) anyway seemed like a good idea at the time to see if I could remove the bottom copper plate and lap that then screw it back on etc....unfortunately I found this is not an option(this first WC component, heh). So, as I was realizing that I noticed that fluid was starting to slowly come up from the empty screw holes so I rushed and put all the screws back but i'm thinking something like 1/5 cup of coolant spilled in the process. Is this a lot? Anyone know for sure it was just the removal of the screws that allowed it to leak and not some other kind of damage that could still be present? Trying to find out before I place it on top of my 1090t >< any help would be much appreciated, thanks.


----------



## PCSarge

hmm...have you tried putting the coolant back in? 1/5th of a cup is alot...for there is only a limited amount in that unit, if too much drains, itll have too much air in the system...


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


reactor im flattered, you actually remebered me xD


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


hmm...have you tried putting the coolant back in? 1/5th of a cup is alot...for there is only a limited amount in that unit, if too much drains, itll have too much air in the system...


that's what I was afraid of and no it pretty much spilled over my hands and some on the ground...hard to gauge exactly how much it was but i'm afraid it could possibly have been more even...was trying to hold it with the plate up and the rest dangling but it was still seeping up against gravity ><..I'm not really sure how to add coolant to this "closed loop" either?


----------



## PCSarge

the only thing i can think of... is somewhere someone had a modding guide...and they showed how to drain and fill the H50 unit... cant remeber where i saw it


----------



## slimbrady

yeah i have been all over youtube and google for most of the day but it seems i'm the only person so far to have fluid removed from the H50 that isn't either adding a new component or replacing the old(RMA) eh heh. Have had a post on corsair forums and their tech suppport ticket since early this morning and not a peep either lol. Thanks for responding anyway sarge....think I'm gonna give it a shot once I finish sleeving these cables


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimbrady*


so I was pretty stupid early this morning and was getting frustrated with trying to lap the H50(granted i did have 2fans and 2shrouds on it, lol) anyway seemed like a good idea at the time to see if I could remove the bottom copper plate and lap that then screw it back on etc....unfortunately I found this is not an option(this first WC component, heh). So, as I was realizing that I noticed that fluid was starting to slowly come up from the empty screw holes so I rushed and put all the screws back but i'm thinking something like 1/5 cup of coolant spilled in the process. Is this a lot? Anyone know for sure it was just the removal of the screws that allowed it to leak and not some other kind of damage that could still be present? Trying to find out before I place it on top of my 1090t >< any help would be much appreciated, thanks.


 . . . . I'll give you WHAT I did for a guy who did just the same, and came to me for help on re-placing/re-filling this closed system:
Keep in mind: *U DO this at YOUR OWN RISK ! ! ! U COULD Short the PUMP OUT IF you place submerged toooo FAR ! ! *! 
Best way i found to do and IT work's is with the H50 alone = NO Fan's attached and hooked up to a separate PSU, (with short'd 
wires to run, like to Leak test...), I'd have the CPU head ONLY - *Slightly submerged*, for only the part of the *CPU_Block-plate_Head*, 
for with the screw's all loose and H50 is running within a tub/bucket of distilled water...[ yes, you can have the Radiator laying submerged, 
too, IF your container is big enough]....Pretty much is pulling in the distilled water & the H50 solution mixed within at the same time is like 
flushing out the bubbles and filling up.....then slowly tightened each and every screw of the plate......Even better to do when just changing 
the tubing.......again, just my way of giving this a go at, and I am *NOT
responsible for IF you placed the CPU Block too Far into the 
solution and Short'd out the Pump*.......*you can try this
method at YOUR OWN Risk, IF you dare.....

*......just my 2







worth of mentioning for one way of Help . . . .

mr-Charles . . .









.


----------



## SpammisT

Wut's up all, I'm in







\\

pics later


----------



## slimbrady

Well just made a mad dash over to best buy and got the last one physically in San Diego, heh. Didn't want to take any chances and this one was on sale for like 63$ so definitely the cheapest thing to replace...my back plate was about 1 more mount away from being stripped anyhow =) Thanks for the help though sarge

oh and charles too, just saw your post...was thinking of using this other one as a possible slushbox hehe not bad idea


----------



## 88EVGAFTW




----------



## chatch15117

BAHAHAHAHA that made my day


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW*












lmao, first legitimate reason I've seen to have a kid


----------



## hammy67

hi all. im new to this but im in. got my h50 on saturday. as u can see in my pic.


----------



## digitally

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hammy67*


hi all. im new to this but im in. got my h50 on saturday. as u can see in my pic.


welcome to the club hammy


----------



## Archer S

welcome


----------



## snorbaard

Hi guys, quick question.

I really am on the verge of buying a H50-1, I just want to make sure, will the radiator fit in a space ~ 146 x 128mm? This is in the place of my three open CD-ROM bays. I have a cheap case and would have no other place to mount it, except if I mod my window pane (which would be a daunting task no doubt).

I'm only asking because over on the Corsair forums they say:

Quote:

Q: What are the dimensions of the radiator?
A: Width:120mm
Height: 152mm
Depth: 27mm
And somewhere in this thread some guys mentioned that it is possible, but 146 != 152.









Thanks!!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *snorbaard* 
Hi guys, quick question.

I really am on the verge of buying a H50-1, I just want to make sure, will the radiator fit in a space ~ 146 x 128mm? This is in the place of my three open CD-ROM bays. I have a cheap case and would have no other place to mount it, except if I mod my window pane (which would be a daunting task no doubt).

I'm only asking because over on the Corsair forums they say:

And somewhere in this thread some guys mentioned that it is possible, but 146 != 152.









Thanks!!









Those dimensions are exact, I've measured it myself. I dont think it will fit!

Plus the H70 is out now, you should take a look at that if you're making the jump


----------



## Archer S

maybe it can fit if you mount it sideways. I measured my drive bays and rad it seems like it would fit sideways, i haven't tried it though, dont take my word for it.


----------



## SightUp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Those dimensions are exact, I've measured it myself. I dont think it will fit!

Plus the H70 is out now, you should take a look at that if you're making the jump









Where can you buy the H70?


----------



## Killhouse

From which country?


----------



## mr-Charles

. . . and to notice that this NEWer - H70 will have a Radiator that is practically doubled the size (*thicker*) than the H50,
does anyone know, for a fact, IF this Radiator is STILL made of Aluminum, or did Corsair Finally decide to use the
"correct - mixture of metal's - Rule" & go with a copper / brass internal's of the Radiator ? ? ?







. . . . .







. . . . .









mr-Charles . . .









.


----------



## Killhouse

It will be aluminium again Mr charles









EDIT: http://www.corsair.com/products/h70/default.aspx
click "resources"


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Those dimensions are exact, I've measured it myself. I dont think it will fit!

Plus the H70 is out now, you should take a look at that if you're making the jump










Its out now ? WOAH! So now I eagerly wait for some benchmarks, but tbh the thicker rad and apparent "improved" Pump should in theory lower temps further than the current H50 model.


----------



## Killhouse

Yeah you can expect an improvement for sure, how much - we are yet to see.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *snorbaard*


Hi guys, quick question.

I really am on the verge of buying a H50-1, I just want to make sure, will the radiator fit in a space ~ 146 x 128mm? This is in the place of my three open CD-ROM bays. I have a cheap case and would have no other place to mount it, except if I mod my window pane (which would be a daunting task no doubt).

I'm only asking because over on the Corsair forums they say:

And somewhere in this thread some guys mentioned that it is possible, but 146 != 152.









Thanks!!










You could use a modded cooler master 4-in-3 device like I did. The device goes in the bays but the rad attaches to the back of it so it's not actually in the bays. I do have a a HAF 932 though, and it's a pretty massive case.


----------



## Ceadderman

Meh, the 932 is big but it really isn't that big. I have mine off to my right and it's off the floor usually. I sit just under it and above it's top. I'm 5'10" tall so I don't consider it big. It is a Full Tower though, so it's definitely bigger than your average Mid. If you're going full loop cooling system there are few better to start with. I can only think of a handful of cases that are as good.









~Ceadder


----------



## PsalmLove

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


You could use a modded cooler master 4-in-3 device like I did. The device goes in the bays but the rad attaches to the back of it so it's not actually in the bays. I do have a a HAF 932 though, and it's a pretty massive case.


I'm very much interested in this solution as I was considering it after looking at my case and deciding it was small enough for a front (intake side) mounted rad.

Do you have a how-to or a set of photos on how you mounted the 4in3? thanks!


----------



## SightUp

It's not out yet damnit! Believe me I will be the first to know posting a thread with the title, "I GOT IT! I GOT IT!"


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PsalmLove*


I'm very much interested in this solution as I was considering it after looking at my case and deciding it was small enough for a front (intake side) mounted rad.

Do you have a how-to or a set of photos on how you mounted the 4in3? thanks!


I can put up some photos. I found the idea in another thread somewhere but ever since then I have not been able to find it again for the life of me. I'll put some pics up with details on how I did it when I get home from work today.


----------



## Archer S

hmm i just got two gentle typhoons AP15. My temps dropped 1, maybe 2 degrees. Im wondering if it was really worth it.

I guess next step is giant shrouds, because the dead spot on the GTs is giant.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Archer S* 
hmm i just got two gentle typhoons AP15. My temps dropped 1, maybe 2 degrees. Im wondering if it was really worth it.

I guess next step is giant shrouds, because the dead spot on the GTs is giant.

You probably found it a bit quieter too?


----------



## Archer S

yeah its a little quieter, not that noise concerns me at all. I would rather get a bit more headroom in temps and just undervolt the fans when im idling.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Eve chaps, well I have found what seems to be one of the first reviews for the H70!

http://www.hexus.net/content/item.php?item=25823&page=1

Good old Hexus.net!

Enjoy chaps


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd* 
Eve chaps, well I have found what seems to be one of the first reviews for the H70!

http://www.hexus.net/content/item.php?item=25823&page=1

Good old Hexus.net!

Enjoy chaps









I really wish they had done a true comparison. They(or someone) needs to compare the H50 to the H70 with the same exact fans. Comparing just p/p doesn't help when they use different fans. I bet if the same two fans where put on the H50 for the tests that where on the H70 the margin between the two would be nil.


----------



## Magus2727

I find it interestign that OC, and running prime the stock H50 ran hotter then the stock cooler....


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Archer S* 
hmm i just got two gentle typhoons AP15. My temps dropped 1, maybe 2 degrees. Im wondering if it was really worth it.

I guess next step is giant shrouds, because the dead spot on the GTs is giant.

I thought the same after I only got a 1c drop after installing my GT AP-15s. I was expecting a 5c drop. Im also considering using shrouds but im afraid I will only get another 1c drop.


----------



## Jelah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ThumperSD* 
I thought the same after I only got a 1c drop after installing my GT AP-15s. I was expecting a 5c drop. Im also considering using shrouds but im afraid I will only get another 1c drop.

Just rip the blades out of an old fan, you should get more than 1ÂºC some shrouds, wont be GREAT but definitely should be an improvement


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jelah* 
Just rip the blades out of an old fan, you should get more than 1ÂºC some shrouds, wont be GREAT but definitely should be an improvement

I want to save my extra fans in case my other fans die. Not worth it for a 1c difference IMO. Im skeptical since many people told me getting some better fans and better TIM will drop my temps significantly yet together it only dropped it by 2c.


----------



## Archer S

woah if im getting shrouds, im getting massive shrouds. the dead spot on the GT is so big i dont think a 25mm shroud will be enough.

Im considering making two 38mm shrouds out of 2L bottles. Probably wont even look bad. Its also free, no need to demolish fans (i dont have any busted ones and i dont want to break a working one)


----------



## Archer S

Quote:

I want to save my extra fans in case my other fans die. Not worth it for a 1c difference IMO. Im skeptical since many people told me getting some better fans and better TIM will drop my temps significantly yet together it only dropped it by 2c.
Exactly! Well i have AS5 under my H50 and i heard around here that MX3 is about 1-2 degrees better, so im considering switching to it. Trying to keep my load temps below 60. I load at 60 right now plus minus a few degrees depending on the ambient, but im only at 3.5ghz and at stock volts! it seems very hot to me.


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Archer S* 
Exactly! Well i have AS5 under my H50 and i heard around here that MX3 is about 1-2 degrees better, so im considering switching to it. Trying to keep my load temps below 60. I load at 60 right now plus minus a few degrees depending on the ambient, but im only at 3.5ghz and at stock volts! it seems very hot to me.

I went from AS5 to MX-3 and only like a 1c difference. When you think about it, slightly cooler ambients can EASILY drop your temps by 1c as well so it's really hard to compare the two.

At stock (2.66ghz) my load is at 60c but OCed to 3.8ghz, it goes up to 69c. I remember my 930 staying at the exact same temps when going from 3.6ghz to 3.8ghz so you might have the same luck if you decide to up the clock.


----------



## Ceadderman

I fail to see the issue here. No offense.

But let's look at it like this...

@2.66 Ghz load is @ 60c

@3.8 Ghz load is @ 69c

That's an increase of < 1c per 1 Ghz.

All from a CPU that is based on HT performance.

HT is a known heat generator.

Therefore if you want to decrease your load temps what do you do?

Go AMD.

I'm not saying this to be a smart guy. Nor am I being a fanboi. I like Intel also. Typing this on my Asus Eee Netbook which has an Intel Processor in it.

The point I'm trying to make here is that your increase is relative to what you're asking of your CPU. You want to OC then you have to accept what comes with the OC.

But I would suggest that if dB truly is not an issue of concern then get yourself some Ultra Kaze or Yate Loon fans and stop mucking with the GTs'. GTs' are solid performing fans but you're not willing to gut working fans to make a shroud. That's fine. Not everyone is like me, who thinks nothing of gutting a brand new Corsair supplied fan. Mine never had juice put thru its connector before I gutted the fan from the body.

But I had Yate Loon High Speed Silents' and mated them to the Rad the Pusher separated by the newly gutted stocker(which is a Yate-Loon) and was willing to accept what my OCs' gave me temp-wise.

I think this may actually be your biggest issue. The ability to understand your temp issue and the heat generated by HT.I know for a fact that you can get the temp down, but even if it's incremental in nature it's still a decrease.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ThumperSD* 
I went from AS5 to MX-3 and only like a 1c difference. When you think about it, slightly cooler ambients can EASILY drop your temps by 1c as well so it's really hard to compare the two.

At stock (2.66ghz) my load is at 60c but OCed to 3.8ghz, it goes up to 69c. I remember my 930 staying at the exact same temps when going from 3.6ghz to 3.8ghz so you might have the same luck if you decide to up the clock.


----------



## snorbaard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *snorbaard* 
Hi guys, quick question.

I really am on the verge of buying a H50-1, I just want to make sure, will the radiator fit in a space ~ 146 x 128mm? This is in the place of my three open CD-ROM bays. I have a cheap case and would have no other place to mount it, except if I mod my window pane (which would be a daunting task no doubt).

I'm only asking because over on the Corsair forums they say:
Q: What are the dimensions of the radiator?
A: Width:120mm
Height: 152mm
Depth: 27mm

And somewhere in this thread some guys mentioned that it is possible, but 146 != 152.









Thanks!!










Quote:


Originally Posted by *superhead91* 
You could use a modded cooler master 4-in-3 device like I did. The device goes in the bays but the rad attaches to the back of it so it's not actually in the bays. I do have a a HAF 932 though, and it's a pretty massive case.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *PsalmLove* 
I'm very much interested in this solution as I was considering it after looking at my case and deciding it was small enough for a front (intake side) mounted rad.

Do you have a how-to or a set of photos on how you mounted the 4in3? thanks!


Quote:


Originally Posted by *superhead91* 
I can put up some photos. I found the idea in another thread somewhere but ever since then I have not been able to find it again for the life of me. I'll put some pics up with details on how I did it when I get home from work today.

Is it maybe this:

http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83574

I can get one of those CoolerMaster 4 in 3 things but I do not understand, do you need a special case for it, or will it fit in three stock standard vacant CD-ROM bays? Thanks!


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
I fail to see the issue here. No offense.

But let's look at it like this...

@2.66 Ghz load is @ 60c

@3.8 Ghz load is @ 69c

That's an increase of < 1c per 1 Ghz.

All from a CPU that is based on HT performance.

HT is a known heat generator.

Therefore if you want to decrease your load temps what do you do?

Go AMD.

I'm not saying this to be a smart guy. Nor am I being a fanboi. I like Intel also. Typing this on my Asus Eee Netbook which has an Intel Processor in it.

The point I'm trying to make here is that your increase is relative to what you're asking of your CPU. You want to OC then you have to accept what comes with the OC.

But I would suggest that if dB truly is not an issue of concern then get yourself some Ultra Kaze or Yate Loon fans and stop mucking with the GTs'. GTs' are solid performing fans but you're not willing to gut working fans to make a shroud. That's fine. Not everyone is like me, who thinks nothing of gutting a brand new Corsair supplied fan. Mine never had juice put thru its connector before I gutted the fan from the body.

But I had Yate Loon High Speed Silents' and mated them to the Rad the Pusher separated by the newly gutted stocker(which is a Yate-Loon) and was willing to accept what my OCs' gave me temp-wise.

I think this may actually be your biggest issue. The ability to understand your temp issue and the heat generated by HT.I know for a fact that you can get the temp down, but even if it's incremental in nature it's still a decrease.









~Ceadder









I was strictly letting him know my situation so he can get an idea of what to expect. I did not complain about my temps. In fact, I was expecting to get more than a 1c difference per ghz. I was expecting to be around 75c at 3.8ghz. 69c at full load is perfectly fine for an i7 to run 24/7.

As for HT, I want to leave it on because I do a lot of audio converting.

And as for the GTs, like I said, a lot of people here claim they had significant temperature drops from it. Probably was misled. That's why Im providing info from my own experience to help others out.

I think you misunderstood the point of my post.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


Originally Posted by *snorbaard* 
Is it maybe this:

http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83574

I can get one of those CoolerMaster 4 in 3 things but I do not understand, do you need a special case for it, or will it fit in three stock standard vacant CD-ROM bays? Thanks!

I think it will fit in any 3 5.25 bays, and yes, that's exactly what I did. all you have to do is take off that front grill thing, take off the fan that comes with it, and take out the HDD mounting brackets. To take those out you just have to drill out some rivets. The hardest part was getting my shrouds screwed into the rad through the 4-in-3 device. It's just aluminum so I actually ended up bending the two sides of it out and then bent them back. You also install the thing backwards. If you get it and decide to do it, it's not too hard to figure out.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I fail to see the issue here. No offense.

But let's look at it like this...

@2.66 Ghz load is @ 60c

@3.8 Ghz load is @ 69c

That's an increase of < 1c per 1 Ghz.

All from a CPU that is based on HT performance.

HT is a known heat generator.

Therefore if you want to decrease your load temps what do you do?

Go AMD.

I'm not saying this to be a smart guy. Nor am I being a fanboi. I like Intel also. Typing this on my Asus Eee Netbook which has an Intel Processor in it.

The point I'm trying to make here is that your increase is relative to what you're asking of your CPU. You want to OC then you have to accept what comes with the OC.

But I would suggest that if dB truly is not an issue of concern then get yourself some Ultra Kaze or Yate Loon fans and stop mucking with the GTs'. GTs' are solid performing fans but you're not willing to gut working fans to make a shroud. That's fine. Not everyone is like me, who thinks nothing of gutting a brand new Corsair supplied fan. Mine never had juice put thru its connector before I gutted the fan from the body.

But I had Yate Loon High Speed Silents' and mated them to the Rad the Pusher separated by the newly gutted stocker(which is a Yate-Loon) and was willing to accept what my OCs' gave me temp-wise.

I think this may actually be your biggest issue. The ability to understand your temp issue and the heat generated by HT.I know for a fact that you can get the temp down, but even if it's incremental in nature it's still a decrease.









~Ceadder










you know ceadder...im running my i5 at 4ghz... max load temp is sitting 45C hottest core under linpack max settings....but thats because im not on my H50...though its rad sits proudly in my pc, on my H50, my hottest core loaded on linpack at about 56-58C

in short...you want below 60 loads that bad... go full WC...

EDIT: hate to say this too, i had an AMD before my old E7400 rig, i didnt like it.....the old amd's had bad heat problems...at least from my experience and im also nobodys fanboi....just grew up knowing intel as the only cpu company around, and i stick with what i know


----------



## Ceadderman

Agreed. The original Phenom was a beast heatwise. Same for just about if not all AMD processors. A guy I know is convinced that AMD runs hotter than Intel. I won't argue it with him because I know their history and even now if I had left mine stock my idle temp would be mid to high 50s'.

But current Intel CPUs' still run hotter than the higher grade of AMDs'. And as I pointed out it's basically from the HT architecture. Even my little Atom CPU has HT. If I don't let it rest on the hottest days of the year this thing runs as hot as an old steam engine boiler. It's a good thing this summer has been fairly decent.









The AMD that I had in my Notebook(Athlon), if it got too hot I'd bet I could grill steaks on in. It was nothing to see it hit over 60c @ idle. Made sure to get a cooler for that beast.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


in short...you want below 60 loads that bad... go full WC...

EDIT: hate to say this too, i had an AMD before my old E7400 rig, i didnt like it.....the old amd's had bad heat problems...at least from my experience and im also nobodys fanboi....just grew up knowing intel as the only cpu company around, and i stick with what i know


Aha, okay. Maybe I did misinterpret it. That's possible. I just have noticed that some people expect way too much from whatever aftermarket cooler they have. My apologies if I came off as condescending in any way. Just wanted to point it out because I also have noticed that sometimes it only takes a slightly negative take to become a major issue with other people.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *ThumperSD*


I was strictly letting him know my situation so he can get an idea of what to expect. I did not complain about my temps. In fact, I was expecting to get more than a 1c difference per ghz. I was expecting to be around 75c at 3.8ghz. 69c at full load is perfectly fine for an i7 to run 24/7.

As for HT, I want to leave it on because I do a lot of audio converting.

And as for the GTs, like I said, a lot of people here claim they had significant temperature drops from it. Probably was misled. That's why Im providing info from my own experience to help others out.

I think you misunderstood the point of my post.


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Aha, okay. Maybe I did misinterpret it. That's possible. I just have noticed that some people expect way too much from whatever aftermarket cooler they have. My apologies if I came off as condescending in any way. Just wanted to point it out because I also have noticed that sometimes it only takes a slightly negative take to become a major issue with other people.









~Ceadder










No worries. My post was mean to be informational, not a complaint







.


----------



## PCSarge

i never noticed how quiet R4s are till i only put a single one in push on my H50's old rad... makes no noise.... moves alot of air thru


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


you know ceadder...im running my i5 at 4ghz... max load temp is sitting 45C hottest core under linpack max settings....but thats because im not on my H50...though its rad sits proudly in my pc, on my H50, my hottest core loaded on linpack at about 56-58C

in short...you want below 60 loads that bad... go full WC...

EDIT: hate to say this too, i had an AMD before my old E7400 rig, i didnt like it.....the old amd's had bad heat problems...at least from my experience and im also nobodys fanboi....just grew up knowing intel as the only cpu company around, and i stick with what i know


I have had and used both Intel and AMD in the past for sure AMD was the hotter running CPUs. Now if you get an AMD CPU to 65C it could be toast so they have come a long way.

For my uses currently AMD is the way to go for both cost vs performance and for keeping everything cooler/quieter.

I have a Core i7-960 Bloomfield in my computer in my spare room and have central air throughout the house in that room though thanks to the heat from the PC it's almost 5C warmer than anywhere else when it is running. The rest of the house stays at 22C.

My other two computers with AMD PII 965 and 955 cpu's are my main computers used for gaming and HTPCs they need to stay cool and quite so AMD was the way to go.

The H50 at least with my CPU's is great without going full WC there is no way I could go lower without drastically increasing the noise.

If your temps where 56-58C under load that is a great temp for an Intel I wouldn't expect anymore from an H50 if I did then I know I would be disappointed.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
I have had and used both Intel and AMD in the past for sure AMD was the hotter running CPUs. Now if you get an AMD CPU to 65C it could be toast so they have come a long way.

For my uses currently AMD is the way to go for both cost vs performance and for keeping everything cooler/quieter.

I have a Core i7-960 Bloomfield in my computer in my spare room and have central air throughout the house in that room though thanks to the heat from the PC it's almost 5C warmer than anywhere else when it is running. The rest of the house stays at 22C.

My other two computers with AMD PII 965 and 955 cpu's are my main computers used for gaming and HTPCs they need to stay cool and quite so AMD was the way to go.

The H50 at least with my CPU's is great without going full WC there is no way I could go lower without drastically increasing the noise.

If your temps where 56-58C under load that is a great temp for an Intel I wouldn't expect anymore from an H50 if I did then I know I would be disappointed.

its not me thats expecting more, someone posted about his i7 930 on another page in here, and mentioned the H50 and wanted below 60C load temps constantly, which is impossible to maintain on an i7 as far as ive seen with an H50, thats why i reccomended what i did


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
its not me thats expecting more, someone posted about his i7 930 on another page in here, and mentioned the H50 and wanted below 60C load temps constantly, which is impossible to maintain on an i7 as far as ive seen with an H50, thats why i reccomended what i did

Ah missed that part then. I am going to work on my i7 probably by the end of this month dunno what I am going to do with it for sure but the stock cooler has to go it is loud and obnoxious and I get tired of it when I have to work for extended periods.

Was thinking of moving the H50 to it and get a H70 but I want to see a 1 to 1 comparison vs the H50 before I ever buy one. So far nothing but reviews with different fans on the two so not a good comparison.


----------



## DE619

Ok this question go out to the Cooler Master R4 owners. I'm currently using 2 noctua NF-P12 fans with my H50. I love that they're quiet but my temps jump into the 60s when gaming. (which is almost all the time) I know 60C isn't bad but I live by the cooler is better motto. So I just wanna hear your personal thoughts on CM R4 and would it be worth the money to switch the fans.

P.S. I run an i7 920 @2.66 with HT and the temps in my room are pretty low thanks to the greatest thing in the world, central air.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DE619* 
Ok this question go out to the Cooler Master R4 owners. I'm currently using 2 noctua NF-P12 fans with my H50. I love that they're quiet but my temps jump into the 60s when gaming. (which is almost all the time) I know 60C isn't bad but I live by the cooler is better motto. So I just wanna hear your personal thoughts on CM R4 and would it be worth the money to switch the fans.

P.S. I run an i7 920 @2.66 with HT and the temps in my room are pretty low thanks to the greatest thing in the world, central air.

2.6ghz stock... R4s are good, i personally used them in push pull config on the H50 quite a while, they make a small wind tunnel effect type noise at full speed, they held my i5 750 @ 4ghz at 56-58C full load for over 2 hours, so you should try them, remember, everyones setup will differ and so will results


----------



## Xeio

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Was thinking of moving the H50 to it and get a H70 but I want to see a 1 to 1 comparison vs the H50 before I ever buy one. So far nothing but reviews with different fans on the two so not a good comparison.

Probably because the H50 comes with 1 fan, and the H70 comes with 2, but here is at least one I've seen (see the bottom of the page):

http://www.hardwareheaven.com/review...nce-43ghz.html

EDIT: Er, well, not the same fans, I think I might have read your post wrong the first time, but it does compare a dual-fan setup for both.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xeio* 
Probably because the H50 comes with 1 fan, and the H70 comes with 2, but here is at least one I've seen (see the bottom of the page):

http://www.hardwareheaven.com/review...nce-43ghz.html

EDIT: Er, well, not the same fans, I think I might have read your post wrong the first time, but it does compare a dual-fan setup for both.

Yep seen a few of basically the same thing so far of H70 vs H50 but they always have different fans on the H50 compared to the H70 and some even use stock corsair with a differently matched fan so really throwing off the comparison.

I still been hoping and looking for a 1 to 1 comparison same exact fans on the H50 and H70 and see the results.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well I'm pretty certain that Corsair used us as a think tank to get their new system out of the planning and development stage. So I think that it's only fair for them to cough up one or several of them to the people that are currently using the H50 and can put it through its paces in a Mid or a Full Tower system.

And since I have 2 fans both the same and of a 2k RPM variety I will be the first to volunteer a comparison of like for like. The only difference would be the double thickness Rad of the H70.

That's a test on even ground I believe. Anything else is just lopsided and not worthy of print.









Also since I have a 932, I can do intake and exhaust. Though I still submit that in a front Intake setup the Lines of the H70 limit forward mounting of the Rad.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Yep seen a few of basically the same thing so far of H70 vs H50 but they always have different fans on the H50 compared to the H70 and some even use stock corsair with a differently matched fan so really throwing off the comparison.

I still been hoping and looking for a 1 to 1 comparison same exact fans on the H50 and H70 and see the results.


----------



## NvidiaXFX

quick question does anyone know some1 who has put a pump on an h50 and by passed the h50 pump?


----------



## pedrosa

For guys in the UK..Overclockers have the H70 in stock!!
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showpr...odid=HS-003-CS


----------



## snorbaard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Nvidia,XFX* 
quick question does anyone know some1 who has put a pump on an h50 and by passed the h50 pump?

Wouldn't that defeat the whole purpose of the H50, since the pump is housed "in" the waterblock? I've seen a few mods involving different radiators / loops (pipes) but I don't think so. It's like putting another pump in your fountain feature in your garden but not switching it on, it will only offer a lot of friction (and maybe generate some volts on the inputs







).


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Well I'm pretty certain that Corsair used us as a think tank to get their new system out of the planning and development stage. So I think that it's only fair for them to cough up one or several of them to the people that are currently using the H50 and can put it through its paces in a Mid or a Full Tower system.

And since I have 2 fans both the same and of a 2k RPM variety I will be the first to volunteer a comparison of like for like. The only difference would be the double thickness Rad of the H70.

That's a test on even ground I believe. Anything else is just lopsided and not worthy of print.









Also since I have a 932, I can do intake and exhaust. Though I still submit that in a front Intake setup the Lines of the H70 limit forward mounting of the Rad.









~Ceadder









You should contact them at the forums, you might actually get that


----------



## Silvos00

I'll go ahead and join, will post a pic when my new case gets here (Zip tie mounted outside the case...) Also as a note, Corsair told me the stock CFM on the 120mm fan it comes with is 60cfm, just as an fyi


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Silvos00* 
I'll go ahead and join, will post a pic when my new case gets here (Zip tie mounted outside the case...) Also as a note, Corsair told me the stock CFM on the 120mm fan it comes with is 60cfm, just as an fyi









Then they lied! It is 50CFM as stated on their website









welcome to the club


----------



## Silvos00

Ohnoez ; ;. I'll be replacing it anyway, with these. I assume this isn't the place to ask questions about it though.

Edit: Thanks for the welcome ^^


----------



## GAMERIG

wow, I am behind this for long while.. 1,063,790 view this thread in the history! this must be king of pre water-cooled in this forum!


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silvos00*


Ohnoez ; ;. I'll be replacing it anyway, with these. I assume this isn't the place to ask questions about it though.

Edit: Thanks for the welcome ^^


This is the perfect place to ask questions about anything H50 related...


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silvos00*


Ohnoez ; ;. I'll be replacing it anyway, with these. I assume this isn't the place to ask questions about it though.

Edit: Thanks for the welcome ^^


This is exactly the right place









Those fans are great, but what are you aiming for - silence or massive OC? The way I see it, the R4s are somewhere in the middle. We can recommend you some quieter or more powerful fans if you like.


----------



## TheLastPriest

I got the R4 Blademasters and while I think they are a tad louder than what i was using before (one corsair one antec tricool) the tone is completely different and less intrusive. Highly recommended, good airflow, not an annoying sound and decently priced


----------



## Silvos00

3.9Ghz 1.4 volts, and load is 30C. I don't think it gets much better than that o.o? New case comes tonight, so I can loose the zip ties.

Edit: Shouldn't the sig insert say H50/H70 now?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silvos00*


3.9Ghz 1.4 volts, and load is 30C. I don't think it gets much better than that o.o? New case comes tonight, so I can loose the zip ties.

Edit: Shouldn't the sig insert say H50/H70 now?


30C load sounds crazy, what stress test and monitoring program are you using?

Whats the new case?









And yeah, it should - thank you!


----------



## Silvos00

Prime95, and HWmonitor. It's going to be the NZXT M59, $62 shipped. The SOLARIs doesn't have mounting screws for a 120mm...so...thats why it's Zip tied.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silvos00*


Prime95, and HWmonitor. It's going to be the NZXT M59, $62 shipped. The SOLARIs doesn't have mounting screws for a 120mm...so...thats why it's Zip tied.


What's your ambient temps? It is impossible to be at 20C for idle if your ambient is not below 20C and that's pretty cool for most people. 30C full load temp is suspiciously low like HWmonitor isn't working right with your board or something is messed up.


----------



## Killhouse

Well sounds solid then







R4s should be good for you!

Good luck with your new case.


----------



## Enphenate

Sigh i have my full i7 build here (mobo, cpu, ssd, ram etc) in front of me but i dont have a cooler and im getting a little impatient on the H70. Ive been holding off on building the system until it gets released but it seems like its taking quite some time to reach retailers... sigh


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Enphenate*


Sigh i have my full i7 build here (mobo, cpu, ssd, ram etc) in front of me but i dont have a cooler and im getting a little impatient on the H70. Ive been holding off on building the system until it gets released but it seems like its taking quite some time to reach retailers... sigh


That sucks do you not have a stock cooler to put on it in the mean time?


----------



## Silvos00

Well it's only a dual core.

Edit: Case is here, shutting down and migrating


----------



## Hi iTs SlayeR

Is there a estimate to when the H70 is gonna hit retail? Im buying my parts next week and heard it should be out this month. Anyone know? Hate to go with a H50 and then the next week have the H70 come out.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silvos00*


Well it's only a dual core.

Edit: Case is here, shutting down and migrating 


I use to have an old AMD 6400+ that I sold to a friend that did a full WC for it and he wasn't able to hit 30C under load with an ambient of 20C. There is just no way(unless temperature sensors are way off/not being read correctly by the program) that you can be hitting 30C under load unless your ambient is super low~15C or lower. I don't think many people keep their houses at that kind of temps unless it is the middle of winter and it is in a spare room that is unheated or something.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hi iTs SlayeR*


Is there a estimate to when the H70 is gonna hit retail? Im buying my parts next week and heard it should be out this month. Anyone know? Hate to go with a H50 and then the next week have the H70 come out.


They are already on presale in most countries now, find a retailer and they should tell you on their website when their estimated stock date is


----------



## kzinti1

I just ordered a pair of these new Aerocool fans: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=28567 to go with my pre-ordered H70. They cost too much but I think they'll be okay.
I also went ahead and ordered one of these Lamptron fan controllers for my HAF-X: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=28748 , hopefully I got the last one! It was supposed to have been in stock when I ordered it anyway.


----------



## Silvos00

Temps taken just now in the new case. Mins are idle, Maxes are load.


----------



## EduFurtado

http://www.overclock.net/wanted/7962...oolit-eco.html

For those of you who are selling your H50s to move on to the H70

Sorry if this kind of post is not allowed here, since I'm not an owner... But I do want to be, at least


----------



## digitally

who will be the lucky no.1 for H70?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silvos00*


Temps taken just now in the new case. Mins are idle, Maxes are load.


Nice temperatures, and cool looking case









Quote:



Originally Posted by *EduFurtado*


http://www.overclock.net/wanted/7962...oolit-eco.html

For those of you who are selling your H50s to move on to the H70

Sorry if this kind of post is not allowed here, since I'm not an owner... But I do want to be, at least


Fine by me mate, hope you find a seller


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Silvos00* 
Temps taken just now in the new case. Mins are idle, Maxes are load.

Really nice Temps that are showing I just still can't understand how that is possible unless your ambients are very low.

I borrowed a friends portable AC had temps of ~12C blowing for intake for my H50 and could get down to 20-25C full load temps but with normal ambients of 22C there is no possible way for me to get 31C load temps.

When I use CPUID it doesn't work with my board/bios at all min/max for my CPU read 0C and never change. I have tried many other programs and the only one that seems to give accurate temps for my particular board is OverclockingCenter that was made for my MSI board. I know it is accurate because one of them is a motherboard temp sensor and I stuck my own sensor right to it and get the same temp as OverclockingCenter gets. Every other program I have tried either gets the same bug CPUID has or gives drastically lower or higher temps.

Any insight into how you can get such low temps would be greatly appreciated I would love to learn how you can get it so low.


----------



## Silvos00

I have no idea =\\. It's a dual core instead of a quad, other than that I just slapped the H50 on there and saw that kind of decrease. I guess it might support it that the radiator and pipes feel cool to the touch.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Silvos00* 
I have no idea =\\. It's a dual core instead of a quad, other than that I just slapped the H50 on there and saw that kind of decrease. I guess it might support it that the radiator and pipes feel cool to the touch.

What is your house/temps like where you have the computer at?


----------



## Silvos00

It's in my basement right now, which might be around 65Â°.

Edit: It could very well be a bad board...this thing does kinda suck =\\. But the radiator and the pipes feel cool to the touch, so idk.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Silvos00* 
It's in my basement right now, which might be around 65Â°.

Edit: It could very well be a bad board...this thing does kinda suck =\\. But the radiator and the pipes feel cool to the touch, so idk.

That could be it if your basement temp is close to 60Â°F(about 15C) then having a load temp of 31C is easily possible.


----------



## Silvos00

It's a tad bit higher, but not much. Case still needs fine-tuning


----------



## Enphenate

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
That sucks do you not have a stock cooler to put on it in the mean time?

I do have the stock cooler but i dont want any thermal paste other than what is on the h70 to touch the cpu.. as in i dont want the paste to mate with any of the surface and to have to clean my cpu again before installing my h70.


----------



## Anton338

Veryyy nice mod!!
Surprised to see the H50 pump handling all that tubing.
Excited for the H70?!? Planning any mods there?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Enphenate* 
I do have the stock cooler but i dont want any thermal paste other than what is on the h70 to touch the cpu.. as in i dont want the paste to mate with any of the surface and to have to clean my cpu again before installing my h70.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anton338* 
Veryyy nice mod!!
Surprised to see the H50 pump handling all that tubing.
Excited for the H70?!? Planning any mods there?

Welcome to OCN guys


----------



## AdvanSuper

Has anyone in here picked one up? If I have some extra cash I may just bite the bullet and try one out.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pedrosa* 
For guys in the UK..Overclockers have the H70 in stock!!
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showpr...odid=HS-003-CS

you meant had....


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
you meant had....









Yeah, they sold them all pretty quick!
Some here though:-
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/Corsa...66-775-AM2-AM3


----------



## Muntey

I changed my fans around to an intake p/p set-up, and now it has dropped a few degrees. The problem now is that it makes a louder sound. It sounds like the r4 is pulling the stock CM fan faster than it should. Should I just take the weak fan out? I don't think it is really even doing much besides making noise.


----------



## PCSarge

you should always use 2 fans of the same speed, just put the R4 in push with a shroud to mount the rad to the case, and be done with it


----------



## jcharlesr75

Quote:


Originally Posted by *digitally* 
who will be the lucky no.1 for H70?









I dont know if im going to be no. 1, but i was going to buy an h50 next week and im glad that i did a litle more research and found out that the h70 is gonna be out next week maybe. It seems much better than the h50 and that looks good to me.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Muntey*


I changed my fans around to an intake p/p set-up, and now it has dropped a few degrees. The problem now is that it makes a louder sound. It sounds like the r4 is pulling the stock CM fan faster than it should. Should I just take the weak fan out? I don't think it is really even doing much besides making noise.


It was long ago decided in this thread (I feel old now) that the most powerful fan should go on the push side









After you switch them around, I would consider a fan shroud on the push side. You can make one simply by taking an old 120mm fan and tearing out everything except the frame


----------



## Silvos00

As tempting as the H70 is...I'm happy with my 32C load. Bulldozer might make me reconsider, but for now the H50 is powerful enough









Edit: Maybe I'm not reading the directions right...but I only got 4 screws with my H50, which only lets me mount 1 fan on it. Am I missing something here? Or do I need to go out and buy more screws for it?


----------



## DeadMau5

i got the h50 ATM but

******************
YOUR ORDER SUMMARY
******************

Manufacturer : CORSAIR
Product : Hydro Series H70 CPU Cooler
Quicklinx : 73WBQ2
Quantity : 1
Price exc VAT : Â£72.32
Price inc VAT : Â£84.97

Delivery : Unscheduled 1-3 Days between 7am-6pm


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silvos00*


As tempting as the H70 is...I'm happy with my 32C load. Bulldozer might make me reconsider, but for now the H50 is powerful enough









Edit: Maybe I'm not reading the directions right...but I only got 4 screws with my H50, which only lets me mount 1 fan on it. Am I missing something here? Or do I need to go out and buy more screws for it?


Yeah they only supply enough to mount one fan. I just mounted my push pull with 2 screws on each fan - it's more than enough to hold it


----------



## KruperTrooper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silvos00*


As tempting as the H70 is...I'm happy with my 32C load. Bulldozer might make me reconsider, but for now the H50 is powerful enough









Edit: Maybe I'm not reading the directions right...but I only got 4 screws with my H50, which only lets me mount 1 fan on it. Am I missing something here? Or do I need to go out and buy more screws for it?


Yeah it only comes with 4 screws since they haven't allowed for a push pull setup. The new H70 though would come with 8 screws though. I don't know the exact screw size you need for the rad. But I know someone else on here knows the size. Just wait for a response.

Or you can use use 2 screws for each fan. Thats what I'm doing and it doesn't vibrate or anything.


----------



## superhead91

6-32 is the size screw you need


----------



## Silvos00

No talk of the H70







, I always seem to upgrade right before they release something new XD. Maybe once Bulldozer rolls out. Thanks for all the info, good to know I'm not loosing my mind. The M59 came with so many dang screws I thought I did something wrong not using half of them.


----------



## Magus2727

any idea if this will work with some modification with the 939 sockets? are the AM2/AM2+/AM3 plates different enough that they will not work on a 939???


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


any idea if this will work with some modification with the 939 sockets? are the AM2/AM2+/AM3 plates different enough that they will not work on a 939???


Unfortunately they dont make a top ring to go with a 939 backplate, sorry mate!


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Unfortunately they dont make a top ring to go with a 939 backplate, sorry mate!


So the back plate is different enough that the AM2 would not be compatible?

Wonder with the H70 being a lower profile if you could criss-cross a pair of zipties through the holes for the back plate to secure the H70.. that would be some gehto fab there!


----------



## Silvos00

Zip ties are essential in any technicians inventory.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silvos00*


Zip ties are essential in any technicians inventory.


Yes but just because you can use them does not mean that you should... I dont think they would provide adiquate pressure and equal pressure across the pump...


----------



## Silvos00

Agreed







. I wasn't being serious.


----------



## pedrosa

Ordered my H70, should get it Friday.
I will post my findings when installed. I will do a comparison with the H50 running push/pull exhaust with 2 H50 original fans(nicked one from a m8).
Then i'll install the H70, same set-up,original H70 fans hi & low speed results...Watch this space


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silvos00*


Agreed







. I wasn't being serious.


Yes... but there are many peolpe who feel like because they can do something they should.... just go to peopleofwalmart.com and you will see first hand.

Just because you can, does not mean you should... that should be a moto learend through the school system... average IQ would go up in leaps and bound....









I will have to measure the offset and angle of the holes in the 939 back plate to see if a AM2 back plate is that much different from the 939 and what type of modification would be needed. I have access to a laser cutter and some 3/16" plexy glass so I could just design my own back plate....


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pedrosa*


Ordered my H70, should get it Friday.
I will post my findings when installed. I will do a comparison with the H50 running push/pull exhaust with 2 H50 original fans(nicked one from a m8).
Then i'll install the H70, same set-up,original H70 fans hi & low speed results...Watch this space










How about a comparison with both the 50 and the 70 using the same fans?

There's already many posted reviews with the 70 using stock and the 50 using stock and p/p but, none where they both use the same.


----------



## jrgull13

Figured this'd be a good place to ask since I can't find any actual dimensions of this thing..

Was wondering if there'd be anyway to fit this (H50) on an xbox 360 GPU without much tweaking..

I'm thinking probably not, but it was worth asking, and I don't want to spend 70 bucks and figure out it won't work









Just looked at the H70.. looks like it's profile is small enough it would fit under the DVD drive.. but idk if I can talk my friend into popping 100 bucks into that.


----------



## Killhouse

The dimensions of the radiator are:
Width:120mm
Height: 152mm
Depth: 27mm

The pump/block:
Height: 55mm
Diameter: 70mm

The tubes are approx 27cm long, but they are not very flexible.

Hope that helps


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pedrosa*


Ordered my H70, should get it Friday.
I will post my findings when installed. I will do a comparison with the H50 running push/pull exhaust with 2 H50 original fans(nicked one from a m8).
Then i'll install the H70, same set-up,original H70 fans hi & low speed results...Watch this space










You will get a lot of reps if you can post up the results


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Ever since I replaced the stock shin-etsu thermal paste with Arctic Silver 5, my load temps have gone up about 5 degrees. I've reseated multiple times. Is there a greater chance that the paste has caused the change, or maybe some air bubbles?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER*


Ever since I replaced the stock shin-etsu thermal paste with Arctic Silver 5, my load temps have gone up about 5 degrees. I've reseated multiple times. Is there a greater chance that the paste has caused the change, or maybe some air bubbles?


The most likely cause is that AS5 takes a little time to break in. Try making your cpu hot, then cold, then hot, etc. by runnig some stress tests. These heat cycles speed up the process.

AS5 is also not quite as good as the stock shin-etsu, so expect a slight (~1C) increase of load temps. Also, how did you apply the paste? The recommended method around here is 5 small dots (similar to the number 5 on a die).

~Killhouse


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


The most likely cause is that AS5 takes a little time to break in. Try making your cpu hot, then cold, then hot, etc. by runnig some stress tests. These heat cycles speed up the process.

AS5 is also not quite as good as the stock shin-etsu, so expect a slight (~1C) increase of load temps. Also, how did you apply the paste? The recommended method around here is 5 small dots (similar to the number 5 on a die).

~Killhouse


Temps have not gone down over time at all.

I applied it both as a single dot and a small X.


----------



## Killhouse

5C seems a little high for the difference in TIM, are you sure the ambient temperatures havnt gone up since when you were using Shin Etsu?

What are you current load temps and ambient temps?


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*











5C seems a little high for the difference in TIM, are you sure the ambient temperatures havnt gone up since when you were using Shin Etsu?

What are you current load temps and ambient temps?


Ambient is about 24.5 degrees, hasn't changed at all.
Idle: 34, Load: 57 (used to be 33/52) 
1.425v @ 4.0ghz


----------



## Killhouse

Those temperatures seem about right for that kind of OC/Voltage. Though which fans do you have on it?


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Those temperatures seem about right for that kind of OC/Voltage. Though which fans do you have on it?


I was about to say the exact same thing lol


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Those temperatures seem about right for that kind of OC/Voltage. Though which fans do you have on it?


Some Antec tri-cools. I understand that it will run hot, but I just don't know why the temps increased so dramatically.


----------



## Killhouse

No, I dont get it either. But with those pretty basic fans those temps are pretty much spot on for your OC.

If you wanted to drop temps by a couple of degrees then I'd add a shroud or two, or purchase some new fans.

Normally for silence I'd recomment Gentle Typhoons, and for performance I recommend UK3Ks or a Feser Triebwerk 122.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER*


Some Antec tri-cools. I understand that it will run hot, but I just don't know why the temps increased so dramatically.


another note.... I think I've read around not all softwares record correctly the temps for the 1055 or the 1090... its random


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


No, I dont get it either. But with those pretty basic fans those temps are pretty much spot on for your OC.

If you wanted to drop temps by a couple of degrees then I'd add a shroud or two, or purchase some new fans.

Normally for silence I'd recomment Gentle Typhoons, and for performance I recommend UK3Ks or a Feser Triebwerk 122.


I can't find UK3Ks on Google. D:

And those Fesers are expensive.


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


another note.... I think I've read around not all softwares record correctly the temps for the 1055 or the 1090... its random


I've been using HWMonitor and looking at CPU temp... Maybe I should look at the cores? The cores are at 24 degrees, my ambient temp.


----------



## reaper~

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER*


I can't find UK3Ks on Google. D:


Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000 (UK3K).







If the noise bothers you just get the 2k version (they're also in Florida).


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reaper~*


Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000 (UK3K).










Ah, I knew about those, just never seen them called that. xD


----------



## Killhouse

Yeah sorry. Its the Ultra Kaze's.

Id get the 3ks with a small fan controller, the 2ks dont undervolt very well


----------



## Ceadderman

Bah if those are too spensive go with Yate Loon fans. You can get them in just about any flavor(color) LED and can get them from Slow to High speed for $4 each from performance-pcs.com.

I love these fans. If you pay attention to the "You know you have too much airflow..." thread, you could buy 3 YLs' to every Ultra Kaze if not more.







I love these things.









~Ceadder


----------



## Hi iTs SlayeR

Is this gonna fit into a CM 690II Advanced Case?

And can anyone help me find a retailer or a online store thats taking orders for these.


----------



## Ceadderman

The H50 or even the H70 for that matter will fit most cases. If you have a 58** series or larger GPU you can fit these coolers with little issue. So long as you have a spot directly above the CPU or your exhaust point will work.









Try newegg.com they're pretty reasonable in price too. Don't know when they'll have the H70 though.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hi iTs SlayeR*


Is this gonna fit into a CM 690II Advanced Case?

And can anyone help me find a retailer or a online store thats taking orders for these.


----------



## TehCodehzor

-=Background story=-
I built my first rig about three to four months ago.
Got the H50 right off the bat and love it.
I recently overclocked my i7 930 to 3.9ghz
Idle temps are 43C and 100%load is 75C.
I couldn't tell ya my ambient temps, but I don't have AC in the house and its been high 90F this summer.
I'm using a push/pull config, but with two cheap fans from best buy (44 CFM)

I'm going to be buying some higher end fans next check
Anywho, on to the question.
I saw the what size screws I need for standard p/p configs.
Would anyone know what length screw i would need for a 120 x 120 x 38mm fan?

I saw a post on corsair forums but it had no answer. Doh

ps, sorry for the rant


----------



## Killhouse

1 3/4", 6-32 threaded will be perfect









and welcome to OCN!


----------



## TehCodehzor

Thanks for the fast reply!


----------



## Ceadderman

Where was the rant?









I mean, if I were you and dealing with at 75c load temp I'd be







...










But do yourself a favor and get some Yate Loons in High Speed and look for some 2.25" lag bolts and gut an old 120mm fan. That should lower your temps a bit. I run them and they cost $4 at Performance-PCs.com(unsleeved), although I had to buy 3" lag bolts double jamb-nut and cut them to that length. I may get some nylon locknuts so I can cut them down just a bit more but we'll see.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *TehCodehzor* 
-=Background story=-
I built my first rig about three to four months ago.
Got the H50 right off the bat and love it.
I recently overclocked my i7 930 to 3.9ghz
Idle temps are 43C and 100%load is 75C.
I couldn't tell ya my ambient temps, but I don't have AC in the house and its been high 90F this summer.
I'm using a push/pull config, but with two cheap fans from best buy (44 CFM)

I'm going to be buying some higher end fans next check
Anywho, on to the question.
I saw the what size screws I need for standard p/p configs.
Would anyone know what length screw i would need for a 120 x 120 x 38mm fan?

I saw a post on corsair forums but it had no answer. Doh

ps, sorry for the rant


----------



## Silvos00

Ya, make sure your case can fit it ._.; I had a XIO nSolaris and it didn't have mounting screws for 120mm. So it was zip tied to the outside, which actually gave me 20C idle. Putting it inside thw case gave me a 5C increase ...but looks so much better.


----------



## TehCodehzor

aha, i gotta HAF 932 so room isnt really the problem.
Just having a hot house is.


----------



## Silvos00

Ah, I'm happy with my walk-out basement  65 roughly.


----------



## Enphenate

Well got my H70 on the way, should be here in a few days (hopefully by the weekend).
Ill finally be able to install the new system (i7 + mobo + ram etc) that has been sitting here waiting for a cooler all week long haha.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Where was the rant?









I mean, if I were you and dealing with at 75c load temp I'd be







...

~Ceadder










75C is not a bad temp at all for an i7 930 @ 3.9Ghz depending on the ambient temp. However I do think some gentle typhoons are in order







I love these fans, I'm running my vulcan on them exclusively


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Enphenate*


Well got my H70 on the way, should be here in a few days (hopefully by the weekend).
Ill finally be able to install the new system (i7 + mobo + ram etc) that has been sitting here waiting for a cooler all week long haha.


you bastard









how much did it cost for you?


----------



## digital_steve

Changed my mind about lapping... either that or MX-3 does actually have a cure time
My system is 31c at idle @ 4ghz now, dropped a further 3 -4 degrees from when i first lapped it the other week.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ooooh I didn't realize you lapped your CPU.









Soooo? How's it going? Got some pics?









31c @ Idle is pretty good? What was your ambient temp?









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


Changed my mind about lapping... either that or MX-3 does actually have a cure time
My system is 31c at idle @ 4ghz now, dropped a further 3 -4 degrees from when i first lapped it the other week.


----------



## alayoubi

Holla









i wonder if i mod my H50 with the 280mm Rad , what would be the results !
Coz i have NZXT Tempest Case with top 2*140mm Fans .

Did any body try that before ? and can i make it a closed-loop or i have to add a res?


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Ooooh I didn't realize you lapped your CPU.









Soooo? How's it going? Got some pics?









31c @ Idle is pretty good? What was your ambient temp?









~Ceadder










I didnt take pics mate... my patience was already thin with the lapping.
Basically, apart from a section of deep scratches, the H50 was a mirror finish and the CPU wasn't mirror at all. I have some more sandpapers on the way to properly finish the CPU and maybe remove the scratches from the H50.

Initially it wasnt much different, but after 3 days it seemed to settle and i lost an extra 4 off idle and 6 off load @ 4ghz. It's probably the best i can expect with the H50 really.

It's winter here, so my ambient is whatever the heat pump is at, which is between 21-24c.

I will say that the indigo xtreme clean is an awesome product for cleaning your surfaces! Big points there.

I'm starting to think AS MX-3 is a bit crap. I wish i could get the good shin etsu here.


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alayoubi*


Holla









i wonder if i mod my H50 with the 280mm Rad , what would be the results !
Coz i have NZXT Tempest Case with top 2*140mm Fans .

Did any body try that before ? and can i make it a closed-loop or i have to add a res?


Check the H50 mod club and ask there
The pump may not be up to it, but those guys would know.
Hope that helps.


----------



## smex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


Check the H50 mod club and ask there..


did somebody just call the police?!

check more in my sig!


----------



## alayoubi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *smex*


did somebody just call the police?!

check more in my sig!


oh , thanks.
that's a new thread.


----------



## PCSarge

well alayoubi, i give you credit for one thing i couldnt get...and thats my old E7400 prime stable at 4ghz...lol

my i5 750 on the other hand... cooperated


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


I'm starting to think AS MX-3 is a bit crap. I wish i could get the good shin etsu here.


I think it is crap, i got awful temps with MX-3. I changed to OCZ freeze and temps dropped about 6c. Can you get OCZ freeze where you are? If you can it's worth trying


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alayoubi*


Holla









i wonder if i mod my H50 with the 280mm Rad , what would be the results !
Coz i have NZXT Tempest Case with top 2*140mm Fans .

Did any body try that before ? and can i make it a closed-loop or i have to add a res?


$63 - Black Ice GT Stealth 280 Radiator

You can make it closed loop - I would highly recommend that to minimize tubing and friction losses. You're going to want to keep everything as simple as possible. Also, if you're going to do it, get a thin rad like the one I linked above.

If you can find an actual pressure drop curve I could tell you how well the h50 can handle it.

Here is what a pressure drop curve looks like

Like everybody else who has modded the h50 with a larger rad, you would probably see a 5 to 10C improvement - but nobody has done a 280mm rad.


----------



## rydeordie1190

Hi everyone. I purchased an H50 last week, and I'm loving it! I will be getting some fans for it soon to do push/pull, as everyone always recommends for this setup. However, right now I am just using the included fan. I have a few questions for getting the best use out of it now:

1) I went against Corsairs recommendation and did a push-out setup. I did this because my two 470s are external exhaust, so where the fan is located, it would be sucking in the hot air exhausted from the 470s. Good move, or should I switch the the recommended intake setup?

2) I have a spare coolermaster 120mm fan. It's the rear case fan I removed when installing the H50. Can I install it as a pull fan? I've heard that if you put two dissimilar fans together, it can be worse than just having one fan. Is this true? I don't know the specs of either fan but I doubt they're the same specs.

Thanks everyone!


----------



## Enphenate

H70 should arrive tomorrow, will post a short review of tests etc. My brand new I7 setup has been sitting in its boxes for the past week waiting on it! cant wait!


----------



## pm-roor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rydeordie1190* 
Hi everyone. I purchased an H50 last week, and I'm loving it! I will be getting some fans for it soon to do push/pull, as everyone always recommends for this setup. However, right now I am just using the included fan. I have a few questions for getting the best use out of it now:

1) I went against Corsairs recommendation and did a push-out setup. I did this because my two 470s are external exhaust, so where the fan is located, it would be sucking in the hot air exhausted from the 470s. Good move, or should I switch the the recommended intake setup?

2) I have a spare coolermaster 120mm fan. It's the rear case fan I removed when installing the H50. Can I install it as a pull fan? I've heard that if you put two dissimilar fans together, it can be worse than just having one fan. Is this true? I don't know the specs of either fan but I doubt they're the same specs.

Thanks everyone!

1) if you wish to go with corsairs recommendation switch all your back exhaust into intakes and your front fans into exhaust, so basically just switch your front and rear fans around

2) i have to dissimilar fans on my h50, stock and a coolermaster r4. i dont really see how 2 different fans can make the temps worse since the extra fan is moving more air than just one alone, but if they are non-lighted fans than go for the more powerful fan as the pusher and the weaker as the puller.

for me i have a green r4 so the slightly stronger (i think) fan is the puller but if i switched them i think i would only see a degree or 2 difference so i just go with a SLIGHTLY hotter setup with a green led fan


----------



## Hi iTs SlayeR

Looks like its finnaly up on Newegg. Can anyone comfirm that it will fit a CM 690II Advanced? On a Push and Pull Setting?


----------



## Archer S

Quote:

well alayoubi, i give you credit for one thing i couldnt get...and thats my old E7400 prime stable at 4ghz...lol

my i5 750 on the other hand... cooperated
You're lucky. I just tried to oc my i5 750 to 4ghz this morning, and got it stable but with a load temp touching 80 degrees. I looked all over ocn and the internet for guides on how to do it, and nothing seemed to quite work for me. Stable at about 1.32 volts, yet hitting 80C on load.

I guess il stick to 3.5ghz until im done school and get a job for more serious cooling, and hardware in general.


----------



## KruperTrooper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KruperTrooper* 
Got a question about temps.

I'm at stock right now. After 3 hours of folding or so, my load temps hover around 60C. That normal? Or should it be lower? The H50 has the stock thermal paste, and the pump is connected to a optional fan header.

Posted that in the Rampage III thread. I realized it would be better off here though.


----------



## Ikthus

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hi iTs SlayeR* 
Looks like its finnaly up on Newegg. Can anyone comfirm that it will fit a CM 690II Advanced? On a Push and Pull Setting?

2 25mm fans + 50mm rad = 100mm

Grab yourself a ruler and see for yourself


----------



## Hi iTs SlayeR

I dont know how it measures considering the Mobo is under it. So i dont know exaclty how itll work. And i dont have the case in person.


----------



## [email protected]'D

$110 for a H70, if you buy one you need should to be shot


----------



## Archer S

Quote:

Posted that in the Rampage III thread. I realized it would be better off here though.
Its better to connect the pump to a molex via an adapter, so its always at full rpm. I dont personally own your processor but the temps seem a little bit high. probably because your pump is a little undervolted.


----------



## Hi iTs SlayeR

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]'D* 
$110 for a H70, if you buy one you need should to be shot

"Should to be shot" huh









I personaly dont think its worth upgrading if you already have a H50, But like myself im building my first rig next week so ill be picking this up.


----------



## Ceadderman

Meh, he may have more than one system. So he may want to get the H70 for his main system and run the H50 on his other system(s).

I agree though that if it's just one system let the H70 stew a bit and go down in price. By that time the warranty of the H50 will probably have run its course. Especially after all the work many of us did to our H50s', it would be a shame to ditch what works and run to something that would probably only net us another ~5c. And for more money. Not worth it imho.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]'D* 
$110 for a H70, if you buy one you need should to be shot


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Meh, he may have more than one system. So he may want to get the H70 for his main system and run the H50 on his other system(s).

I agree though that if it's just one system let the H70 stew a bit and go down in price. By that time the warranty of the H50 will probably have run its course. Especially after all the work many of us did to our H50s', it would be a shame to ditch what works and run to something that would probably only net us another ~5c. And for more money. Not worth it imho.









~Ceadder









I was figuring on maybe $20 more than current H50(~$60) guess a lot of us will be waiting a bit now.


----------



## KruperTrooper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Archer S* 
Its better to connect the pump to a molex via an adapter, so its always at full rpm. I dont personally own your processor but the temps seem a little bit high. probably because your pump is a little undervolted.

I checked the RPM in the bios. Its running at 14xx. That's at max rpm so that should be fine right?


----------



## Silvos00

Isn't the max RMP 1600?


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Archer S*


You're lucky. I just tried to oc my i5 750 to 4ghz this morning, and got it stable but with a load temp touching 80 degrees. I looked all over ocn and the internet for guides on how to do it, and nothing seemed to quite work for me. Stable at about 1.32 volts, yet hitting 80C on load.

I guess il stick to 3.5ghz until im done school and get a job for more serious cooling, and hardware in general.


archer, mines at 1.352v and it idles at 23-25C and loads full at 47C hottest core, but ive since gone from H50 to custom WC, i lost about 12C on load temps along the way. my old max load was 59C on push/pull H50


----------



## Archer S

Quote:



my old max load was 59C on push/pull H50


My load push pull H50 with Gentle Typhoons AP15 is 80 at 4ghz. What am i doing wrong?


----------



## Ceadderman

Max *RPM* is _1400_.









I rarely if ever get that on my MoBo however. And I'm running at 100% both low and high temp setting. I usually show between 1350-1390 RPM in PC Probe II.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silvos00*


Isn't the max RMP 1600?


----------



## KruperTrooper

Yeah I get slightly higher than 1400. Last time I was in bios it was like 1476rpm. So the pump is running fine. Should I remount the H50. Get some new thermal paste and use that? I'd rather not, but if it helps then I'll do it.


----------



## Archer S

Quote:



Yeah I get slightly higher than 1400. Last time I was in bios it was like 1476rpm. So the pump is running fine. Should I remount the H50. Get some new thermal paste and use that? I'd rather not, but if it helps then I'll do it.


Try just tightening the 4 screws that hold it on first, the H50 comes with very good TIM.
When i tightened mine out of curiosity i dropped 5 degrees under load, but i was already getting a great temps.

Might do wonders for you.


----------



## KruperTrooper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Archer S*


Try just tightening the 4 screws that hold it on first, the H50 comes with very good TIM.
When i tightened mine out of curiosity i dropped 5 degrees under load, but i was already getting a great temps.

Might do wonders for you.


Alright I'll try that. But I've already done that once before though. And I don't wanna over tighten and warp the board. Will it be alright?

EDIT* All my cores aren't at 60C, under load, folding.
Core #0- 60C
Core #1- 54C
Core #2- 59C
Core #3- 54C


----------



## Ceadderman

Well you could always give it the old quarter turn tighten/check temps formula. Keep at it until temps start getting hotter not cooler and then back them out the quarter turn before the temps increase.









Mine gets tightened to max but I'm running AMD so I have different albeit same results than Intel CPUs'.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *KruperTrooper*


Alright I'll try that. But I've already done that once before though. And I don't wanna over tighten and warp the board. Will it be alright?

EDIT* All my cores aren't at 60C, under load, folding.
Core #0- 60C
Core #1- 54C
Core #2- 59C
Core #3- 54C


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KruperTrooper* 
Alright I'll try that. But I've already done that once before though. And I don't wanna over tighten and warp the board. Will it be alright?

EDIT* All my cores aren't at 60C, under load, folding.
Core #0- 60C
Core #1- 54C
Core #2- 59C
Core #3- 54C

Hey KruperTrooper. Ive read through your posts and the replies... some sound advice there.

The only other thing I would ask is your rad push/pull in exhaust or intake?

I note that you are using 2 x GTX 260 cards, if you have your rad set to exhaust, you maybe pulling hot air through your already struggling rad.

if you could also post a pic of your PCs internals, that is also a good tool for us to work with.


----------



## Muntey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rydeordie1190*


2) I have a spare coolermaster 120mm fan. It's the rear case fan I removed when installing the H50. Can I install it as a pull fan? I've heard that if you put two dissimilar fans together, it can be worse than just having one fan. Is this true? I don't know the specs of either fan but I doubt they're the same specs.

Thanks everyone!


I found that having just my R4 gets around the same temps as having both either way around. I did find that having the stock fan as a pusher and the R4 puller, caused an annoying whining sound, not unlike when you hold a vacuum cleaner to the fan, over-driving it.


----------



## KruperTrooper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Hey KruperTrooper. Ive read through your posts and the replies... some sound advice there.

The only other thing I would ask is your rad push/pull in exhaust or intake?

I note that you are using 2 x GTX 260 cards, if you have your rad set to exhaust, you maybe pulling hot air through your already struggling rad.

if you could also post a pic of your PCs internals, that is also a good tool for us to work with.


It's intake.

Check my sig for pics of my build log. The last page has completed pics.


----------



## superplex

Don't know if this has been mentioned yet, but the H70 is now on sale at Newegg.


----------



## reaper~

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superplex*


Don't know if this has been mentioned yet, but the H70 is now on sale at Newegg.


Thanks but yeah, we have a thread going here. Lots of haters. lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Geez how is it that one cooler draws the haters like crap does flies?
















One fool even says his "custom loop" cost less than a new H70. What's he using water weenie tubing and pen caps for his flow? Must be worse than Swiftech gear.









~Ceadder


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Geez how is it that one cooler draws the haters like crap does flies?
















One fool even says his "custom loop" cost less than a new H70. What's he using water weenie tubing and pen caps for his flow? Must be worse than Swiftech gear.









~Ceadder










I read it as a long list of jokes. Only a few valid posts in the whole thread. The H50 was made for a reason and fills a big void in CPU cooling. If I had it to do again I would go H50 still. Nothing beats the little bit of space the H50 takes up for the amount of cooling it offers.

My next purchase is going to be a new case. I am still pondering the exact case I want have it narrowed down to a few choices. HAF X, Corsair 800D, Mountain Mods Pinnacle 18 with triple quad side panel(12 120mm fan holes) and three 120mm top fan holes is probably my top pick atm. All fairly close in prices but the MM Pinnacle 18 will cost quite a bit more in the end because of all the fans that would have to go with it and I don't think it even comes with power/reset switches or power/hdd leds. My current case is 18" front to back also so hopefully I shouldn't have a problem affixing my H50 to front as intake in any of the listed cases.

I been looking for a place I can buy some good fans for cheap prices in bulk but sadly most places charge a per fan shipping cost making it very expensive.


----------



## rydeordie1190

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pm-roor*


1) if you wish to go with corsairs recommendation switch all your back exhaust into intakes and your front fans into exhaust, so basically just switch your front and rear fans around

2) i have to dissimilar fans on my h50, stock and a coolermaster r4. i dont really see how 2 different fans can make the temps worse since the extra fan is moving more air than just one alone, but if they are non-lighted fans than go for the more powerful fan as the pusher and the weaker as the puller.

for me i have a green r4 so the slightly stronger (i think) fan is the puller but if i switched them i think i would only see a degree or 2 difference so i just go with a SLIGHTLY hotter setup with a green led fan


thanks man! +repped.


----------



## Ceadderman

You want a good performing fan for a cheap price? why dinna you sayz zo?

Whadda uz wanz? 120, 140? I godz de hookupz for juiz.









_*Click Pic*_

_*for website*_
Keep in mind now this is just the red one. But if noise is not an issue the High Speed Silents are the best bang for the buck.

If I were to go with a lot of fans this is the kind I would go with.

All you do to get the $4 price is select no sleeving in the scroll box. You can get at least 4 of them for what the average brand name fan sells for before shipping. One of our HAF members (Bugz) got a arseload of them for his 932. And had them shipped to Canada. They inadvertently put two Red ones in and made it good on his next order with 2 freebie fans for the hassle.

I had no issues with them at all. Though I have to say their shipping can be a bit slow at times.









But you can get these fans in straight black or you can get them in Red, Blue or Green LED colors. And it doesn't matter which model. Slow/Medium or High Speed. All are $4. 140mm fans are $9 w/o sleeving. I love my Yate Loons.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I read it as a long list of jokes. Only a few valid posts in the whole thread. The H50 was made for a reason and fills a big void in CPU cooling. If I had it to do again I would go H50 still. Nothing beats the little bit of space the H50 takes up for the amount of cooling it offers.

My next purchase is going to be a new case. I am still pondering the exact case I want have it narrowed down to a few choices. HAF X, Corsair 800D, Mountain Mods Pinnacle 18 with triple quad side panel(12 120mm fan holes) and three 120mm top fan holes is probably my top pick atm. All fairly close in prices but the MM Pinnacle 18 will cost quite a bit more in the end because of all the fans that would have to go with it and I don't think it even comes with power/reset switches or power/hdd leds. My current case is 18" front to back also so hopefully I shouldn't have a problem affixing my H50 to front as intake in any of the listed cases.

I been looking for a place I can buy some good fans for cheap prices in bulk but sadly most places charge a per fan shipping cost making it very expensive.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KruperTrooper*


It's intake.

Check my sig for pics of my build log. The last page has completed pics.


I note you rad intake is sitting directly above your GPU exhausts. 
It may simply be a case of recycling the hot air from them but not as I first suggested in my previous post


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


You want a good performing fan for a cheap price? why dinna you sayz zo?

Whadda uz wanz? 120, 140? I godz de hookupz for juiz.









_*Click Pic*_

_*for website*_
Keep in mind now this is just the red one. But if noise is not an issue the High Speed Silents are the best bang for the buck.

If I were to go with a lot of fans this is the kind I would go with.

All you do to get the $4 price is select no sleeving in the scroll box. You can get at least 4 of them for what the average brand name fan sells for before shipping. One of our HAF members (Bugz) got a arseload of them for his 932. And had them shipped to Canada. They inadvertently put two Red ones in and made it good on his next order with 2 freebie fans for the hassle.

I had no issues with them at all. Though I have to say their shipping can be a bit slow at times.









But you can get these fans in straight black or you can get them in Red, Blue or Green LED colors. And it doesn't matter which model. Slow/Medium or High Speed. All are $4. 140mm fans are $9 w/o sleeving. I love my Yate Loons.









~Ceadder










I need 120mm but straight black, I need 20 total 120mm fans 17 of them plain I am thinking and 3 probably blue. Then I need to go to DEMCiflex and get 3 custom filters. One made to cover the front three 120mm fan intakes and a big one for the side to cover the whole side almost; twelve 120mm fans and another one for the top to cover the other three 120mm fans that will be at exhaust but just don't want to get the dust/dirt fall in when the computer is off.

$94.15 with shipping for 20 fans MM Pinnacle 18 would cost that much more for just fans


----------



## Ceadderman

Performance has DMCIflex as well. I got my kit for $40 not including shipping. And paid $8 for 2 GPU filters also. I love these things. I didn't realize how much dust is in this house before I to them.









That's not a bad price for fans considering how much 20 UKs' would be.







lol

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I need 120mm but straight black, I need 20 total 120mm fans 17 of them plain I am thinking and 3 probably blue. Then I need to go to DEMCiflex and get 3 custom filters. One made to cover the front three 120mm fan intakes and a big one for the side to cover the whole side almost; twelve 120mm fans and another one for the top to cover the other three 120mm fans that will be at exhaust but just don't want to get the dust/dirt fall in when the computer is off.

$94.15 with shipping for 20 fans MM Pinnacle 18 would cost that much more for just fans


----------



## snorbaard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


I think it will fit in any 3 5.25 bays, and yes, that's exactly what I did. all you have to do is take off that front grill thing, take off the fan that comes with it, and take out the HDD mounting brackets. To take those out you just have to drill out some rivets. The hardest part was getting my shrouds screwed into the rad through the 4-in-3 device. It's just aluminum so I actually ended up bending the two sides of it out and then bent them back. You also install the thing backwards. If you get it and decide to do it, it's not too hard to figure out.


I've got the 4 in 3 device and it is pretty neat. When I get my H50 later today (whooo!!







) I'm going to experiment and see what I can come up with. Interesting that you mounted it in reverse, what did you put in the front (the back of the 4 in 3 device that is now in the front of the case) then?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Performance has DMCIflex as well. I got my kit for $40 not including shipping. And paid $8 for 2 GPU filters also. I love these things. I didn't realize how much dust is in this house before I to them.









That's not a bad price for fans considering how much 20 UKs' would be.







lol

~Ceadder










I ordered custom straight from them and got them cheaper than performance has them for even with shipping from South Africa. I got two 120 filters with magnet stickers for two of my non magnetic placements one regular 120mm filter and a custom 220mm filter for my side fan. All with custom colored borders that match my case.I took a HQ pick of my case color and they matched it for the borders of the filters.

I would add though that the 120mm filters do not fit exactly the way I would like them to the border kinda restricts some of the flow of the fans I would order 140mm filters for 120mm fans in the future or just complete custom measurements for everything.

I am eagerly awaiting paypal support for South Africa then I think their main website can really take off and they can more easily sell to everyone.


----------



## Ceadderman

Oooh nice.









Yeah would be cool. I really wanted the custom border but mine are model T black. You can have it whatever color you want so long as it's black.









Just sitting here taping my ODD prepping it for "Model T Black".







lol

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I ordered custom straight from them and got them cheaper than performance has them for even with shipping from South Africa. I got two 120 filters with magnet stickers for two of my non magnetic placements one regular 120mm filter and a custom 220mm filter for my side fan. All with custom colored borders that match my case.I took a HQ pick of my case color and they matched it for the borders of the filters.

I would add though that the 120mm filters do not fit exactly the way I would like them to the border kinda restricts some of the flow of the fans I would order 140mm filters for 120mm fans in the future or just complete custom measurements for everything.

I am eagerly awaiting paypal support for South Africa then I think their main website can really take off and they can more easily sell to everyone.


----------



## snorbaard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I ordered custom straight from them and got them cheaper than performance has them for even with shipping from South Africa. I got two 120 filters with magnet stickers for two of my non magnetic placements one regular 120mm filter and a custom 220mm filter for my side fan. All with custom colored borders that match my case.I took a HQ pick of my case color and they matched it for the borders of the filters.

I would add though that the 120mm filters do not fit exactly the way I would like them to the border kinda restricts some of the flow of the fans I would order 140mm filters for 120mm fans in the future or just complete custom measurements for everything.

I am eagerly awaiting paypal support for South Africa then I think their main website can really take off and they can more easily sell to everyone.


Hi are you talking about an online store in South Africa? I haven't been following your conversation but when I saw "shipping from South Africa" it sparked my interest.


----------



## Ceadderman

He was speaking of the company that makes DCMIflex filters. They're based in South Africa.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *snorbaard*


Hi are you talking about an online store in South Africa? I haven't been following your conversation but when I saw "shipping from South Africa" it sparked my interest.


----------



## snorbaard

Cool, what is it? I tried googling it but I only get one hit that links to this thread.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


He was speaking of the company that makes DCMIflex filters. They're based in South Africa.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ceadderman

Ummmm try googling "DMCIflex" maybe?









I dunno since I bought mine from performance-pcs.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *snorbaard*


Cool, what is it? I tried googling it but I only get one hit that links to this thread.


----------



## snorbaard

Found it to be DEMCIflex and yes they are from South Africa.

Actually stoked about this because I always have dust issues and this company is based in my country.

And Ceadderman, if it is good enough for you then it must be good enough for me.









cheers









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Ummmm try googling "DMCIflex" maybe?









I dunno since I bought mine from performance-pcs.









~Ceadder


----------



## KruperTrooper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


I note you rad intake is sitting directly above your GPU exhausts. 
It may simply be a case of recycling the hot air from them but not as I first suggested in my previous post


Oh alright. What should I do about that though? Don't a lot of people have the same setup as me, and get lower temps?


----------



## Ceadderman

Sine I have the 932, I'm not certain but I *think*(







) that you should be able to mount it up top. Or if you get a 4 in 3 bay device you can mount it in Intake in the front or even Ghetto it there with zip-ties until you can figure our where your final placement will be and how you will achieve that.









If you go up top make it Exhaust. if you mount in the front(ghetto or otherwise) make it Intake. If you do exhaust don't sweat reversing an Exhaust fan. You'll have plenty of airflow to offset the increased Exhaust flow. I run mine up top in Exhaust and my door fan is stock. 140 is Exhaust Ceiling is Exhaust and front is Intake. No issues.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *KruperTrooper*


Oh alright. What should I do about that though? Don't a lot of people have the same setup as me?


...

@snorbaard... I knew I was forgetting a letter.









But I'm glad you found it. I just remembered the other issue I have with the filters. The Bottom filter wants to float(no biggee I just fuss with it til it behaves) and the GPU filter wants to fall off since there is absolutely no metal on the Radeon Shroud. I just fuss with that too But I think I'm gonna get a velcro kit and deal with it that way... j/k I might use some stickem on the GPU one though.







lol

Still they are awesome filters.









~Ceadder


----------



## KruperTrooper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Sine I have the 932, I'm not certain but I *think*(







) that you should be able to mount it up top. Or if you get a 4 in 3 bay device you can mount it in Intake in the front or even Ghetto it there with zip-ties until you can figure our where your final placement will be and how you will achieve that.









If you go up top make it Exhaust. if you mount in the front(ghetto or otherwise) make it Intake. If you do exhaust don't sweat reversing an Exhaust fan. You'll have plenty of airflow to offset the increased Exhaust flow. I run mine up top in Exhaust and my door fan is stock. 140 is Exhaust Ceiling is Exhaust and front is Intake. No issues.










Okay cool thanks for that. Would it help if I remounted it as well?

FYI Ambients are 27-24C, don't think I mentioned that before.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KruperTrooper* 
Okay cool thanks for that. Would it help if I remounted it as well?

FYI Ambients are 27-24C, don't think I mentioned that before.

Just try different placements first. If it settles your issue then you know what it was. If nothing works then I would reseat the cooler to the CPU.









~Ceadder


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *snorbaard* 
Found it to be DEMCIflex and yes they are from South Africa.

Actually stoked about this because I always have dust issues and this company is based in my country.

And Ceadderman, if it is good enough for you then it must be good enough for me.









cheers









I have had filters in the past but they don't compare to these they are awesome. The emails I received from demcifilter came from one person Vincent de Klerk he is very knowledgeable and will work with you to get you whatever you need. He mentioned that paypal should be working in South Africa very soon and he seemed very excited about it maybe by now they have it going it has been a while since I got my filters.


----------



## snorbaard

I got my H50 cooler today and this baby is pumping! At 2.8GHz with stock heatsink it crept over 80'C and with H50 it barely reached 45'C under load.

I am currently testing my e6300 @ 3.46GHz and now it reaches ~61'C (upped voltage a bit to 1.44V). I'm very excited.


----------



## Enphenate

Look what just arrived at my door step


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KruperTrooper* 
Okay cool thanks for that. Would it help if I remounted it as well?

FYI Ambients are 27-24C, don't think I mentioned that before.

Like Cman said, try this first and then remount if required.


----------



## Gnomepatrol

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Enphenate* 
Look what just arrived at my door step
























ohhhhhh pics of finished build go go go


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Enphenate* 
Look what just arrived at my door step
























yummy this


----------



## -=*HERO*=-

thats a picture of a man with a confused priority list, notice how the h70 is in the center and the i7 is underneath the SSD... ouch but.... yay h70


----------



## A.T.I

Nice!


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Enphenate* 
Look what just arrived at my door step
















Hook it up! We wanna see some numbers.


----------



## digitally

Quote:


Originally Posted by *reaper~* 
Hook it up! We wanna see some numbers.


















this and this again!


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Enphenate* 
Look what just arrived at my door step
























What i7 processor is that?


----------



## dracotonisamond

Quote:


Originally Posted by *-=*HERO*=-* 
thats a picture of a man with a confused priority list, notice how the h70 is in the center and the i7 is underneath the SSD... ouch but.... yay h70









thats probably because the SSD cost more than the i7









Numbers GO GO GO GO GO!


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cmeeks* 
What i7 processor is that?

I'm guessing either a 920 or a 930.


----------



## pamibios

pretty sure that's a 930


----------



## sendblink23

I just watched this youtube review of the H70:







YouTube- Corsair H70 Review FIRST
I can clearly say the H70 sucks to my taste, I'd expected it to be closer to the Noctua... but its no where near it:







YouTube- Noctua NH-D14 Review
both using same CPU overclocked at 4Ghz/voltage & both stock(stock thermal paste, stock fans)

Now the guy didn't have an H50 to compare... so at least to comparing to the best air cooling currently and seeing the latest video with the H70... its clearly no where near it.... I honestly wanted it to be allot closer to it

I want to see now someone making reviews of it with other fans, paste & someone mod it - similar test having an H50 as well.. so that we can see what are the real numbers of the H70 vs H50


----------



## Hi iTs SlayeR

Dam, lucky you to get it! Where did you order it off of? 
Am i the only one thats annoyed that it got sold out in a matter of hrs?









Anyone know a site selling this beautifull thing?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hi iTs SlayeR*


Dam, lucky you to get it! Where did you order it off of? 
Am i the only one thats annoyed that it got sold out in a matter of hrs?









Anyone know a site selling this beautifull thing?


All depends where you live/how much you want to spend. If it keeps up the way it has been so far with supplies I will be buying some just to post them on ebay for a nice profit. Thus far I think UK and Europe in general seem to be getting them sooner/more.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Enphenate*


Look what just arrived at my door step















http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c77/Evilalpha/IMG00085-20100813-1410.jpg[IMG]

[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
You bought the Crucial 128 SSD for 199? I wanted to jump on that [IMG alt=""]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/frown.gif


----------



## jcraw

H50 Club

max before this was 71c


----------



## Ceadderman

Very nice temps for your i7. Though you might want to fill out your User CP with your system info.









~Ceadder


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


I just watched this youtube review of the H70: YouTube- Corsair H70 Review FIRST


Did he drop his chewing gum on the cpu when he was seating the cooler?
Surely it cannot be that bad..


----------



## Ceadderman

It could be that bad considering he ran an OC and probably used the stock TIM.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pedrosa*


Did he drop his chewing gum on the cpu when he was seating the cooler?
Surely it cannot be that bad..


----------



## snorbaard

Max load temps with my H50. For what it's worth. CPU is 65nm. Used included tim, and fan to push.

1.86 @ 1.28vcore ~ 41'C (stock cpu specs)
2.8 @ 1.38vcore ~ 45'C (measured 20'C ambient)
3.5 @ 1.48vcore ~ 65'C

Radiator and air always feels cool.


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pedrosa*


I think it is crap, i got awful temps with MX-3. I changed to OCZ freeze and temps dropped about 6c. Can you get OCZ freeze where you are? If you can it's worth trying


Yeah i may get that
I'd prefer the awesome shin etsu stuff that is the stock paste that everyone loves though...

SOMEONE SEND ME SOME!


----------



## Killhouse

That guy didnt really seem to know what he was talking about xD

We need a case with proper airflow, testing it with some GTs or undervolted UK3Ks to see how this thing really goes!


----------



## Trademark

hi guys i just upgraded/almost new build my Gaming PC.
gave up my i5 750/asus p7p55d pro board and ram. and my old cm storm scout. to
i7 930/EVGA X58 SLI LE/HAF X anyway anyone here have a PUSH and Pull set up working well using the Back/rad instead of top side? in HAF X?

i havent done it since im still waiting for my cpu/ram.. wont be here till monday..
pls let me know which place in HAF X is best to use for push/pull thx in advanced.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pedrosa* 
Did he drop his chewing gum on the cpu when he was seating the cooler?
Surely it cannot be that bad..

What a friggin tool, he dropped the bleeding rad off the side of the desk. And hes testing with an external case setup, screw that. Waiting for either one of you chaps on here or SAR RODNEY REYNOLDS!


----------



## PCSarge

im gonna be happy now







750W modular Corsair PSU and another 4GB of RAM....now the 4ghz clock has enough memory to run at blazing speed


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


im gonna be happy now







750W modular Corsair PSU and another 4GB of RAM....now the 4ghz clock has enough memory to run at blazing speed










Add a SSD for your OS and programs you run the most and you'll get the most out of everything.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Add a SSD for your OS and programs you run the most and you'll get the most out of everything.

wish i had the cash for that... not till next month

anyways... i just got some amazing RAM timing locked in at 9-9-9-24 xD


----------



## reaper~

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trademark*


i havent done it since im still waiting for my cpu/ram.. wont be here till monday.. 
pls let me know which place in HAF X is best to use for push/pull thx in advanced.


I put mine top-side since the rad was hitting the NB heatsink on my Classified (when I put it in the back). I'm sure you won't have the same problem since the NB heatsink on that LE isn't nearly as tall.

Good luck with your new build and that's a nice case, btw. Personally I prefer the 800D but to each his own.


----------



## Ceadderman

Tiny Tom reviews A LOT of gear. He knows what he's talking about. But he's not as up on the Hydro Series as we are. I posted on his H70 review. I'm hoping that he hasn't shipped the H70 off yet so he can add a shroud at least and see if that made a difference.

We can't expect him to fine tune it though since the gear he reviews is on loan. He's the reason I got the CHIVFormula though. Cause he had to plead with Asus to do the review prior to launch. He was the only review out at the time. If he hadn't reviewed it I would probably have gone the M4A89GTD Pro series instead.

You should have seen the Asus 5970 LE GPUs' he reviewed. Hardshell cases that have RoG mouse badge and all the other goodies for over Â£1000









Anyway, he tested it as supplied. And he did say that he was encouraged by the 50mm thick Rad which alot of the Reviewers of the H50 had issues with.

Some people think that Corsair is missing the boat by not offering the H70 with a 240 Rad. I think that's not realistic for a bolt on water system. It would be self limiting to offer it as a 240 instead of 120, because not everyone has room or the grill space for a 240. Which would limit who could buy one. I think that Corsair is right on the money to double the Rad thickness, but it would hinder me if I wanted to mount it where I have my H50 Rad. Since that is over hafway into my 5.25 rack.

My setup would double in thickness and force me to mount my Opticals in the bottom two Bays. Considering my shroud and fan thickness is 52mm including the fan silencers I use for gaskets. My whole setup would be 128mm thick.

Anyway I passed on how my P/P is setup and asked him if he hasn't sent back the H70 to try it with a shroud and see what his temps are then.

He does run an OC test. No other reviewer I know of does this. I could be mistaken but I've never seen someone like 3DGamerman do this.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
That guy didnt really seem to know what he was talking about xD

We need a case with proper airflow, testing it with some GTs or undervolted UK3Ks to see how this thing really goes!


----------



## Enphenate

*H70 Update!
*
Sorry for being absent guys, i finally was able to get the whole system installed and running (literally just got done installing the drivers etc). Installing the h70 was pretty easy took about 15 minutes tops but figuring out where it would fit and how to set up the fans was time consuming.

I have yet to properly configure my bios (asus P6X58D-E) or my fan/pump settings but i am looking into that right now.

This is how i have my system currently set up.
Note i have never had a H50 or any water cooling so im still trying out different methods.
I am using the provided Corsair fans as an intake (push/pull) until my Gentle Typhoon AP15s arrive.

Due to the size of the rad i was unable to install it as a top exhaust in my CM690 II because it got in the way of the ram.

2x140 fans as top exhaust 2x120 as push pull for the rad, and 1x140mm front exhaust. I will be adding a front exhaust to the top CD drive bay as well if i chose to keep the back intake configuration. 

















Current tests after a quick 30 min stress test (note bios have not been modified at all its all stock)









I will report back once i get off of work tonight and i will have better figures one i have everything configured properly.
Any recommendations or suggestions for this setup?


----------



## thingbreaker

do my H50 get better performance when i lapped the copper base?


----------



## KruperTrooper

@Enphenate

The front fan should be intake. Otherwise, looks good.


----------



## Enphenate

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KruperTrooper*


@Enphenate

The front fan should be intake. Otherwise, looks good.



So your saying this would be preffered over my current set up? 









I gotta head to work i will report back later tonight


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KruperTrooper*


@Enphenate

The front fan should be intake. Otherwise, looks good.


Since he is doing intake on the back of the case which is normally exhaust he did the right thing changing the front to exhaust.

It should be fine if he does intake on the front and side and exhaust out the front and top.

As long as your intaking more than exhausting then it's fine.

Switching the front fan to intake too would create a negative pressure case which is bad makes it so your case is sucking air in any crack or place that it can and dust/dirt with it.


----------



## KruperTrooper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Since he is doing intake on the back of the case which is normally exhaust he did the right thing changing the front to exhaust.


Heat rises though, he isn't going to accomplish much by having the front as an exhaust. And you want to cool your HDD's.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Since he is doing intake on the back of the case which is normally exhaust he did the right thing changing the front to exhaust.

It should be fine if he does* intake on the fron*t and side and *exhaust out the front* and top.

As long as your intaking more than exhausting then it's fine.

Switching the front fan to intake too would create a negative pressure case which is bad makes it so your case is sucking air in any crack or place that it can and dust/dirt with it.


What? That's not possible.


----------



## jcraw

Sorry Will post specs
H50 Club

max before this was 71c



















HeatSink: H50 with the Delta AFB1212GHE 120x38mm Rev. C Grand High Speed (5,000 RPM, 240+ CFM, 120mm)
Processor: i7-860 2.8 GHZ
Video card ATI 5870 1GB
RAM 8GB DDR3 1333
HDD 500 GB Seagate
Motherboard MSI Iono
OS Windows 7 Ultimate
Optical Drive TSSTcorp CDDVDW TS-H653N
PSU Xion 1100 Watt, 6 rail 85% Efficient
Case Cooler Master RC-690-KKN1-GP Black SECC 
Case contents: 
5 90 CFM+ Fans (120mm)
2 stock Fans (120mm)
1 50mm Fan behind Mobo
1HDD cooler fan
1 90mm fan under HDD


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KruperTrooper*


Heat rises though, he isn't going to accomplish much by having the front as an exhaust. And you want to cool your HDD's.

What? That's not possible.


Wrong about it being impossible if you had more than one fan in the front but your right messed the one line up. Intake in the back and side, exhaust out the front and top. The HDD's are still getting air passed over them just not as cool as intake would give, keeping the CPU cooler should be priority.

If he is going to keep the setup the way it is now with the H50 as intake in the back it is better to have the front fan exhaust.

I would suggest to try a couple of different setup's. Try like you have it/where going to set it up originally(H50 intake, side intake, front and top exhaust)and see the temps of everything in your case your GPU's and HDD's and of course CPU too. Then try to exhaust the H50 change the front fan to intake and see your temps for that setup. If there is only a few C difference in the CPU temps you might stick with the latter setup cause it should give you lower temps for everything else.


----------



## KruperTrooper

I don't think positive negative air pressure matters. One hasn't been proven to have better cooling than the other, correct me if I'm wrong. Negative will result in more dust but IMO it does a better job. I basically use the concept of heat rises. On my HAF X, all the fans are intake except for the top two fans. That creates an air current where all of the heat is streamed to the top, where it gets exhausted by two 200mm fans.

I believe his setup should be the same. There is no point in exhausting air out the bottom front. That where all the cool air is, you want that cool air to enter the case and flow upwards cooling the components and then when it gets warm, its exhausted out the top. You don't want the cool air thats on the bottom of the case to be exhausted out of the case. That doesn't make any sense. Who ever heard of exhausting cool air?

You case has a place for a 140mm fan on the bottom, next to the PSU. You should get a fan down there to pull in cold air and feed it to your GPU. You could also put another 140mm up top to help create that air current I was talking about.


----------



## Carfanatic

You basically have all your fans as intake so that's a positive pressure case. Agree that neither positive or negative pressure is technically better just in the long run positive is better because it keeps dust/dirt out of your case and will keep everything cooler. If the dust and dirt cake up on all of your components and your fans then it can't be cooled as well. You can clean it all you want it's still going to have a layer of dust over it soon as you start it back up and let it run for a few hours insulating everything so it holds in more heat.

I filter every intake on my case and the top of my case and still get some dust in my case even though I have a positive pressure setup. I can't imagine how much dust and crap I would have in my case if it was negative pressure.

It took me a while to figure out the best setup for my H50/case.(H50 front intake+another front fan intake, side intake, back and top exhaust).


----------



## Sirrick

HI everybody!

I've been reading A LOT in this thread, not the 1253 pages though!
I just assembled my rig yesterday, I'm testing the temps on my I7 at 1.32v and 4Gh, but I think I have some problems with my H50:

1.- the pump it's quite loud, and more than a buzzing or humming noise is like a clicking noise, like when you touch the blades of a fan with a piece of paper.
2.- My temps are terrible, reaching 90 degrees full load with Prime95, and OCCT just last 3m or so and reach 80 degrees (I'm attaching a picture of it), with the case open and with an ambient temperature of 22 degrees, the pump shows 1360RPM which should be correct, on other hand I think the heat transfer between the block and the radiator it's ok, because the radiator gets quite hot too, that's why I think the pump must be working fine apart of how loud it is.

I know that using a pull/push configuration my temps are going to improve, but I think even with the stock fan they should be much better than this right?

on other hand just for testing I installed a TT ISGC-300 and the temps were like 4 degrees higher only.

here are the specs and a pictures

I7 930
ASUS X58D-E
ASUS 5870
3X2G hyper-X 1600
Corsair H50
Cooler Master 960 II advance

BTW in the next picture the idle temp is quite high but is with the fan at minimum, 530RPM



















I hope some one can help me with this problems

cheers!!!


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sirrick*


HI everybody!

I've been reading A LOT in this thread, not the 1253 pages though!
I just assembled my rig yesterday, I'm testing the temps on my I7 at 1.32v and 4Gh, but I think I have some problems with my H50:

1.- the pump it's quite loud, and more than a buzzing or humming noise is like a clicking noise, like when you touch the blades of a fan with a piece of paper.
2.- My temps are terrible, reaching 90 degrees full load with Prime95, and OCCT just last 3m or so and reach 80 degrees (I'm attaching a picture of it), with the case open and with an ambient temperature of 22 degrees, the pump shows 1360RPM which should be correct, on other hand I think the heat transfer between the block and the radiator it's ok, because the radiator gets quite hot too, that's why I think the pump must be working fine apart of how loud it is.

I know that using a pull/push configuration my temps are going to improve, but I think even with the stock fan they should be much better than this right?

on other hand just for testing I installed a TT ISGC-300 and the temps were like 4 degrees higher only.

here are the specs and a pictures

I7 930
ASUS X58D-E
ASUS 5870
3X2G hyper-X 1600
Corsair H50
Cooler Master 960 II advance

BTW in the next picture the idle temp is quite high but is with the fan at minimum, 530RPM

I hope some one can help me with this problems

cheers!!!


Are you running the H50 as intake or exhaust? For any new setup specially while doing an OC you should always run it at 100%. Make sure in the motherboard bios you have the fan and pump set to 100% and any setting that might throttle the speed of the fans/pump turned off.


----------



## Sirrick

HI

thanks for the advice!, I did check and the pump is at 100% always and the fan is running as intake


----------



## Ceadderman

Just intake from the front and exhaust out the top regardless of the setup in the back.

The increased flow should help keep the other components cool as well.

As has been pointed out, heat does not sink, it rises. So I would look for a better fan to use for exhaust and that should cover any issues that could possibly arise.

Take my system for example. I had pretty much decided that I was going to add another fan to the bottom of my system and was going to exhaust out the top. The increased exhaust out the top doesn't offset the increased flow from the bottom + side + front. So I also replaced the stock Exhaust fan with a better performing Yate Loon LED fan. RPM is over 2k. I left the stock 200/230mm fans pointed in their stock direction.

Is berry nice for temps.









~Ceadder


----------



## Enphenate

*Corsair H70 Progress*

I finally got off work and was able to update the bios and properly configure them.
Im running at 3.6ghz right now 1.21 vcore on my I7 930.

I set the CPU fan to 100% min & 100% Max with rpm on ignore.
The Fans that are on the H70 are running at around 1300rpm (what my mobo was reporting) do i need to tweak these?

I am still running the fan configuration as specified below, but i will switch the front fan from exhaust back to intakee tomorrow morning. I am also adding a 120MM intake fan to the bottom (next to PSU so it blows air towards the top 2x140mm exhaust fans)









The ambient temp in my room is a little cooler right now (night time) but here are some results after a 30min blend test + small FFT test (20 mins).









*
Idle temps*
Core 0: * 37C*
Core 1: *34C*
Core 2: *39C*
Core 3: *32C*

Its a little late, ill get back on tomorrow morning to fine tune everything and post more temps etc!


----------



## corex2

Hi guys, im a little worried about my temps, the air temp in my case is around 29c, and my i7 920 C0 @ 4ghz is idling around 50c, prime95 after about 30 minutes puts my 920 to around 87c. Things I have done to try and reduce temps are -
- Re-apply thermal paste and check the seating of the waterblock.
- On the h50 radiateur I now have an extra fan pulling as well as the fan that is pushing the air from outside the case into the radiateur.
- Took out my 9800gt that I was using as a dedicated physx card.
- Took another fan and directed some air onto the heat pipes of the gtx480 to try and cool them down.

Could this be a problem with my h50 cooler or am just crazy for sticking all this in such a small case ? Here are some piccies.


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *corex2* 

Could this be a problem with my h50 cooler or am just crazy for sticking all this in such a small case ?

From the look of your pics you have no other fans in the case?
Everthing will get hot if you don't have proper ventilation. You are filling up your case with hot air drawn across the h50 rad and it can't escape. In other words your case is becoming an oven!
Try reversing the fans on the h50 to exhaust out the back, but untill you get some more airflow in the case(at least 1 fan drawing in cool air at the front) you are going to have heat problems.
That fan blowing onto the graphics card will also make for more hot air onto the mobo!


----------



## Kyushu

I did several searches and I didn't find a clear answer to my questions. I plan on building a new pc in a month or 2. I plan on using these components :
1. Intel i7 875k 2.93ghz
2. Asus P7P55D E-Pro motherboard
3. Asus Ati Radeon 5870 v2 non-reference gpu
4. Kingston Hyper-X 8gb ddr3 1600
5. Corsair H50 CPU cooler
6. Antec P183
7. Antect CP-850 watt psu
8. Intel x-25 ssd 80gb
9. Western digital caviar blue 1tb 2nd hard drive
10. Windows 7 64bit
11. Samsung PX 2370 led/LCD monitor 23" 1920x1080 resolution

I will be using this pc strictly for gaming. Mainly FFXIV. I plan to over clock to 4.0ghz on 4 cores and maybe 4.2ghz when only one core is working.
My main questions are:
1. Is this build good (all parts are compatible and the best bang for my buck)?
2. With this case I hope to use all the available 120mm fans slots as needed. I believe this case has 2 exhaust fans stock, 1 at top and 1 rear. It has 2 slots for intake fans in front. It also has a spot inside the case for an additional fan that can attach to the top drive bay.
With my gaming use and overclocking needs what would be the best configuration for airflow with the H50?
3. I plan on running the H50 with push/pull and I think a rear Exhaust configuration would be best but I'm not sure, should I run my rear push/pull with exhaust or intake?
4. I'm hoping on running it with an exhaust setup because the rear fan slots don't have filters and I have a Persian cat that sheds a lot. I plan on doing all I can to keep the hair away from my pc, but it's still a concern I need to keep in mind.
5. Performance is my main concern, having a quite rig is 2nd. I plan on using the noctua p-12 fans on the H50 rad. Is that a good choice?
6. What would be the best case fan airflow setup be exactly? Intake from front 2 fans and exhaust from top and rear fans (including H50 push/pull)?
7. Which case fans at what rpm and airflow would be best for performance and low noise for that case and setup? I plan on keeping the front door to the case closed at all time so I can cut down on the amount of cat hair and dust I get in my case. Is keeping the door closed something to consider when picking my 2 front intake fans? I was thinking on getting the scythe s-flex fans but I wasn't sure what rpm and airflow would be best for my setup while keeping low noise into consideration.
Any advice would be great. I'm willing to change almost anything on the build if it means more perfomance with less noise for the money.
My budget is 2,000 for the pc.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sirrick* 
HI everybody!

I've been reading A LOT in this thread, not the 1253 pages though!
I just assembled my rig yesterday, I'm testing the temps on my I7 at 1.32v and 4Gh, but I think I have some problems with my H50:

1.- the pump it's quite loud, and more than a buzzing or humming noise is like a clicking noise, like when you touch the blades of a fan with a piece of paper.

Hello and welcome to the club =)

Well first thing, if it was me I would definately RMA that unit. Corsair will have no problems sending you a new one if this one is making odd sounds. Just because the pump 'seems' to be running fine or at rated speeds doesn't mean it might not be on it's way to failure, possibly while the pc is unattended and if you don't have temp threshold protection set up with those high of temps already, it could really be catastrophic for your cpu ><

If you don't want to do that for some reason there's a couple things I have done that, when combined together, have moderately improved my temps...nothing fantastic but if you've got the time here's a list of mods I have done over the past few weeks...

1)Lapped H50 and my CPU:
http://tinypic.com/r/72vspd/4

2)Ordered some IC7 Diamond TIM(in my experience it outperforms AS5) plus the suggested method of application on the package it comes in seems almost meant for the H50, lol(dot method with pressure and slight twist).

3)Gutted some worthless antec fans to use as shrouds and placed one on either side of rad in-between rad and fans:
http://tinypic.com/r/72vspd/4

may or may not be able to tell but I also added a piece of thin piece of plastic(gutted fan grills I never used or planned on ever using) to give the shrouds 35mm width as this is purportedly the "sweet spot" for shrouds on the H50.

4)I found in my particular situation that mounting the h50 as a front intake in the bottom of the DVD bays worked out the best and I don't have to worry about blowing hot air over other components with 2 fans exhausting out the top:
http://tinypic.com/r/72zxh2/4
not very hard to reach the front with all the fans/shrouds i have attached, lol.

hope that helps some of ya, also keep an eye out for static pressure or air pressure as it's sometimes referred to when you're looking to upgrade your push/pull fans, this is, IMHO, the most important rating of a radiator fan...those are Silverstone FM123's on mine if you're wondering.


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kyushu* 
I did several searches and I didn't find a clear answer to my questions. I plan on building a new pc in a month or 2. I plan on using these components :
1. Intel i7 875k 2.93ghz
2. Asus P7P55D E-Pro motherboard
3. Asus Ati Radeon 5870 v2 non-reference gpu
4. Kingston Hyper-X 8gb ddr3 1600
5. Corsair H50 CPU cooler
6. Antec P183
7. Antect CP-850 watt psu
8. Intel x-25 ssd 80gb
9. Western digital caviar blue 1tb 2nd hard drive
10. Windows 7 64bit
11. Samsung PX 2370 led/LCD monitor 23" 1920x1080 resolution

I will be using this pc strictly for gaming. Mainly FFXIV. I plan to over clock to 4.0ghz on 4 cores and maybe 4.2ghz when only one core is working.
My main questions are:
1. Is this build good (all parts are compatible and the best bang for my buck)?
2. With this case I hope to use all the available 120mm fans slots as needed. I believe this case has 2 exhaust fans stock, 1 at top and 1 rear. It has 2 slots for intake fans in front. It also has a spot inside the case for an additional fan that can attach to the top drive bay.
With my gaming use and overclocking needs what would be the best configuration for airflow with the H50?
3. I plan on running the H50 with push/pull and I think a rear Exhaust configuration would be best but I'm not sure, should I run my rear push/pull with exhaust or intake?
4. I'm hoping on running it with an exhaust setup because the rear fan slots don't have filters and I have a Persian cat that sheds a lot. I plan on doing all I can to keep the hair away from my pc, but it's still a concern I need to keep in mind.
5. Performance is my main concern, having a quite rig is 2nd. I plan on using the noctua p-12 fans on the H50 rad. Is that a good choice?
6. What would be the best case fan airflow setup be exactly? Intake from front 2 fans and exhaust from top and rear fans (including H50 push/pull)?
7. Which case fans at what rpm and airflow would be best for performance and low noise for that case and setup? I plan on keeping the front door to the case closed at all time so I can cut down on the amount of cat hair and dust I get in my case. Is keeping the door closed something to consider when picking my 2 front intake fans? I was thinking on getting the scythe s-flex fans but I wasn't sure what rpm and airflow would be best for my setup while keeping low noise into consideration.
Any advice would be great. I'm willing to change almost anything on the build if it means more perfomance with less noise for the money.
My budget is 2,000 for the pc.

Honestly, I think the h50 probably isn't going to handle 4 to 4.2 GHz too well. You could do one of two things - mod the h50 or consider the h70 - either of which should provide a 5 to 10C improvement over the stock h50. I and several others experienced virtually no difference trying to use better fans - while a larger rad (h50 modded with dual rad or h70 with thick rad) is gauranteed to improve performance. I would recommend spending your hard earned money on what's gauranteed to improve performance first.

Based on your case selection, I imagine you prefer a fairly conservative looking case. That's why I chose my Antec 300, but I do wish I had picked up something with a spot for a dual or triple rad up top - even if it meant a fairly gamer-ish looking case. Keep this in mind as you can easily and cheaply mod the h50 with a dual rad (which I def would have already done by now if I had room for it). It's also good future proofing in case you decide you want to go with a custom loop. Room for a triple rad will enable you to include gpu cooling in your custom loop.

Also something to keep in mind IF you think you might ever do a larger radiator is how much room there is between the top of the case and the top of the mobo. Make sure a rad with fans attached hanging from the top of the case isn't going to interfere with the mobo. I would suggest something with a bit of head room up there. This is also a problem I've noticed with my Antec 300 - even if I wanted to install a rad up top, it would interfere with the mobo.

Look at the haf 922 for example - it has room for a dual rad up top and it's $50 cheaper than what you have selected (that's $50 that can be put towards better cooling)... and I think it could still have a decently conservative look if you don't fill it with LED fans. Consensus on best rad fans probably falls between Yate Loons and GT AP-15s - but as I said, some people report improvements and some don't. GTs are quieter.


----------



## staryoshi

Not sure which GPU I'll use yet, either waiting for my HD5770 to come back from RMA or I'll get something else... I paired the h50 with two GT AP13 fans (which are SILENT) to cool a sexy i3 540 I picked up on sale (Less than the price of an i3 530... which I used to own







). This rig is amazingly quiet, installing Win 7 now.

This rig is sitting next to my keyboard, and I can't hear it... that says a lot because I'm sensitive to noise.

Here's a quick pic.. I modded the h50 retention bracket to work with the ITX board.










This picture is from my previous installation, but the method used was the same


----------



## staryoshi

Not sure about my temps... both core-temp and Gigabyte's built-in software both claim that no less than one of my cores idles below ambient temp... at 24C ambient my idles temps according to CoreTemp are 24C and 18C (for each core respectively)... the load seems OK, hitting 46C and 40C respectively after 15 minutes of Prime95 at stock settings. I'm going to have to try a few more software monitors... and then undervolt it


----------



## Ceadderman

Ooh very nice. And on a ITX? Very very nice. Would love to see a top pic if you think of it when you have the PSU out of the way.







+Rep for the mounting mod.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kyushu

I picked the antec p183 because of it's filtered intake fans and because of it's door. I think that will help me a ton with the damn cat hair and dust problems. If you think I can get 4.0ghz on 4 cores I'd be more than willing to get the H70 and I'd also be willing to give up the 4.2ghz on fewer cores. I really just want 4.0 on 4 cores. Also if you think the HAF 922 or 932 is much better for cooling than the p183 even though I think the haf will get more dust and crap in it, I'd be willing to switch cases. I'd prefer to use the antec p193, 1200 or the 902 in that order if you think those cases will get me more performance. I like those cases more than the HAFs. But again, if you think that the HAFs are the best bang for my buck then I'd be willing to go with one of the Hafs.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kyushu*


I picked the antec p183 because of it's filtered intake fans and because of it's door. I think that will help me a ton with the damn cat hair and dust problems. If you think I can get 4.0ghz on 4 cores I'd be more than willing to get the H70 and I'd also be willing to give up the 4.2ghz on fewer cores. I really just want 4.0 on 4 cores. Also if you think the HAF 922 or 932 is much better for cooling than the p183 even though I think the haf will get more dust and crap in it, I'd be willing to switch cases. I'd prefer to use the antec p193, 1200 or the 902 in that order if you think those cases will get me more performance. I like those cases more than the HAFs. But again, if you think that the HAFs are the best bang for my buck then I'd be willing to go with one of the Hafs.



I wouldn't base my decision to buy a case on whether or not the fans are filtered....you can always add some 120mm filters for a couple bucks on your intakes. Filters for the 200cm+ fans on the HAF series are a little more pricey but you can always go with a swiffer pad like i did on my bottom front intake xDDD 
I would focus more on your components and how well they will fit in the case and whether the case allows you to decently manage your cables...airflow will suffer no matter what fans or case you're using if you've got jumbles of wires restricting it.

And btw the H50 can certainly handle a 4ghz OC if the system is set up well...i know i'm using AMD and not Intel but I still think it does a good job with mine...3.4 ghz stock OC'd 4.06 and I don't break 56c on a 10 hour prime95 run.


----------



## Ceadderman

Dude you do know you can get a 932 which has a ton more airflow and to combat dust you can get a DEMCiFlex filter kit for it. Right?

It's what I have and I doubt that you have anymore dust than I do. We've got birds. Ever seen the mess they make? The dust is absolutely the worst and my system sits driectly across the room from them. It makes doing system vids fun as well cause one of them has to do their own commentary. lol

~Ceadder


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kyushu*


I picked the antec p183 because of it's filtered intake fans and because of it's door. I think that will help me a ton with the damn cat hair and dust problems. If you think I can get 4.0ghz on 4 cores I'd be more than willing to get the H70 and I'd also be willing to give up the 4.2ghz on fewer cores. I really just want 4.0 on 4 cores. Also if you think the HAF 922 or 932 is much better for cooling than the p183 even though I think the haf will get more dust and crap in it, I'd be willing to switch cases. I'd prefer to use the antec p193, 1200 or the 902 in that order if you think those cases will get me more performance. I like those cases more than the HAFs. But again, if you think that the HAFs are the best bang for my buck then I'd be willing to go with one of the Hafs.


Yeah, that's exactly why I got my Antec 300, because all incoming air is filtered at the front. That and My hard drives were running burning hot in my previous case. Now they're cool to the touch!

I'm not really one to suggest cases. All the HAF cases, not to mention just about all other really good cases, were out of my budget back when I was case shopping - so I don't know much there, HOWEVER...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Dude you do know you can get a 932 which has a ton more airflow and to combat dust you can get a DEMCiFlex filter kit for it. Right?

It's what I have and I doubt that you have anymore dust than I do. We've got birds. Ever seen the mess they make? The dust is absolutely the worst and my system sits driectly across the room from them. It makes doing system vids fun as well cause one of them has to do their own commentary. lol

~Ceadder










...Ceadderman beat me to the punch! I know you can get the DEMCiFlex kit for the HAF cases and it looks pretty slick. That and it's as easy to clean as a filter could possibly be.


----------



## Sirrick

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimbrady*


Hello and welcome to the club =)

Well first thing, if it was me I would definately RMA that unit. Corsair will have no problems sending you a new one if this one is making odd sounds. Just because the pump 'seems' to be running fine or at rated speeds doesn't mean it might not be on it's way to failure, possibly while the pc is unattended and if you don't have temp threshold protection set up with those high of temps already, it could really be catastrophic for your cpu ><

If you don't want to do that for some reason there's a couple things I have done that, when combined together, have moderately improved my temps...nothing fantastic but if you've got the time here's a list of mods I have done over the past few weeks...

1)Lapped H50 and my CPU:
http://tinypic.com/r/72vspd/4

2)Ordered some IC7 Diamond TIM(in my experience it outperforms AS5) plus the suggested method of application on the package it comes in seems almost meant for the H50, lol(dot method with pressure and slight twist).

3)Gutted some worthless antec fans to use as shrouds and placed one on either side of rad in-between rad and fans:
http://tinypic.com/r/72vspd/4

may or may not be able to tell but I also added a piece of thin piece of plastic(gutted fan grills I never used or planned on ever using) to give the shrouds 35mm width as this is purportedly the "sweet spot" for shrouds on the H50.

4)I found in my particular situation that mounting the h50 as a front intake in the bottom of the DVD bays worked out the best and I don't have to worry about blowing hot air over other components with 2 fans exhausting out the top:
http://tinypic.com/r/72zxh2/4
not very hard to reach the front with all the fans/shrouds i have attached, lol.

hope that helps some of ya, also keep an eye out for static pressure or air pressure as it's sometimes referred to when you're looking to upgrade your push/pull fans, this is, IMHO, the most important rating of a radiator fan...those are Silverstone FM123's on mine if you're wondering.


Thanks Mate!

I will return this unit today, I hope I can get a good one!.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sirrick*


Thanks Mate!

I will return this unit today, I hope I can get a good one!.


Glad to hear it man =) A proper H50 pump should be quieter than your case fans in most cases...only way I can tell mine is on is to check my temps =)


----------



## GameBoy

How silent is the H50? There are afew youtube vids showing the noise levels and ill admit, it seems like the pump has a annoyingly loud buzz sound, but to be fair the noise test was right up close to it, how audible is it a few feets away?


----------



## Killhouse

If the rest of your system is silent, you'll hear it. That's about the best I can tell you







It bothers me sometimes because nothing else in my case makes a noise.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GameBoy*


How silent is the H50? There are afew youtube vids showing the noise levels and ill admit, it seems like the pump has a annoyingly loud buzz sound, but to be fair the noise test was right up close to it, how audible is it a few feets away?


the H50 pump that I have produces no sound at all... I don't have a clue what are the sounds people mention of the pump, only sound you can hear is your Fan that is on your Rad

I have tested it just connecting the pump directly to my motherboard alone, yes having everest showing the RPMs so its runing


----------



## Kyushu

Ok sounds good I'll go with the HAF922 with filters for any additional intake fans. Should I buy any extension cords for the 8 pin or 24 pin so I can run all the wires behind the motherboard? Are there any case fans I need to add? If so, which ones are best for performance? With that case I won't even try to make it run quite. 
How should I run airflow in that case with the H50? Like I said I want atleast 4.0ghz out of my intel i7 875k. 
Could I run everything I listed in my first post and add another radeon 5870 gpu in crossfire with a 850watt psu or do I need a 1000 watt. I won't be able to use tge antec cp-850 psu in that case so which would be the best psu for my build in the haf922? I'm thinking a corsair modular 850watt psu, but I'm not sure. I'm really liking the CM Sniper aswell. Acutually I like that case the most, will it fit a H50 push/pull setup in the rear fan while allowing the top 200mm exhaust fan to stay there?


----------



## GameBoy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


the H50 pump that I have produces no sound at all... I don't have a clue what are the sounds people mention of the pump, only sound you can hear is your Fan that is on your Rad

I have tested it just connecting the pump directly to my motherboard alone, yes having everest showing the RPMs so its runing










YouTube- CORSAIR H50 CPU Cooler - Noise Test
There's about 2-3 more other videos showing the exact same noise too.


----------



## Killhouse

It's hit and miss, some have it and some dont. I've seen it come up a lot in this thread









Best to presume it will make a noise, our best assumption is that it comes from the small air bubbles getting into the pump.


----------



## GameBoy

Anorher question regarding the fan, are the specs real? As I find it hard to believe a 1,700RPM fan can produce 3.57mm H20.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GameBoy*


Anorher question regarding the fan, are the specs real? As I find it hard to believe a 1,700RPM fan can produce 3.57mm H20.


It's actually not bad, as stock fans go. But it's still a stock fan and hardly that great, so I imagine they bent the truth a bit


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GameBoy*


YouTube- CORSAIR H50 CPU Cooler - Noise Test

There's about 2-3 more other videos showing the exact same noise too.


Let's put it this way - I've connected my pump to a power source while modding it and I couldn't hear it at all unless there were bubbles running through it - which there really shouldn't be once you set your case down and leave it alone.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GameBoy*


Anorher question regarding the fan, are the specs real? As I find it hard to believe a 1,700RPM fan can produce 3.57mm H20.


No idea about the specs. All I know is I replaced the stock fan with a GT-AP15 and saw no measurable difference in temperatures.


----------



## GameBoy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cmeeks*


Let's put it this way - I've connected my pump to a power source while modding it and I couldn't hear it at all unless there were bubbles running through it - which there really shouldn't be once you set your case down and leave it alone.

No idea about the specs. All I know is I replaced the stock fan with a GT-AP15 and saw no measurable difference in temperatures.


I see, well I'll be ordering my H50 tomorrow probably, I hope I get lucky with a fairly inaudible one.


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GameBoy*


I see, well I'll be ordering my H50 tomorrow probably, I hope I get lucky with a fairly inaudible one.










If it makes noise like the one in the video above, I'd be contacting Corsair. That would get annoying real fast.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GameBoy*


YouTube- CORSAIR H50 CPU Cooler - Noise Test

There's about 2-3 more other videos showing the exact same noise too.


This is interesting...i'm on my second H50(abused the first one, my fault) and neither pump had an audible noise...guess i was lucky, heh.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GameBoy*


How silent is the H50? There are afew youtube vids showing the noise levels and ill admit, it seems like the pump has a annoyingly loud buzz sound, but to be fair the noise test was right up close to it, how audible is it a few feets away?


I can only hear mine if I put my ear up to the case. It's a very gentle buzz. (the first unit I owned was a bit louder though) It's inaudible at ~18" from my head. The Scythe Gentle-Typhoon AP-13 (1150RPM) are very very slightly audible. This box is kick butt and near silent. I may overclock it a bit for fun as this board is built for it







. I'm going to pair it with a passive GT 240 or HD 5670, I think.


----------



## B-roca

Man I'm thinking about getting an H50 because my Arctic Freezer Pro is loud and makes me have a very small E-Peen but the H50 is very expensive and my temps are not actually very hot but if i get an H50 my E-PEEN will get like gigantic


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *b-roca* 
Man I'm thinking about getting an H50 because my Arctic Freezer Pro is loud and makes me have a very small E-Peen but the H50 is very expensive and my temps are not actually very hot but if i get an H50 my E-PEEN will get like gigantic











Someone will sig some of that


----------



## B-roca

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 









Someone will sig some of that









Maybe if everyone sigs my post they can sponsor me!!

Come on everyone help a man with his E-PEEN!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## sendblink23

I honestly don't want to read anymore about your E-PEEN lol


----------



## B-roca

Dude no ****!!!


----------



## pzyko80

hey guys need an opinion i dont have an h cooler yet was thinking of picking up the 70 but its like tagged at 120 bucks so far at the egg. is it really worth getting this cooler for that much??


----------



## Ceadderman

Well I have to say (and will probably get jumped on for it) that the sound that most people are hearing is due to air being stuck in the pump.

One of those YouTube vids is linked here in one of the earlier pages and it was found that once the flow tube was rapped on with a pencil the sound went away. I know that people don't believe there to be air in the system but I'm pretty certain there is knowing what I know about sealed Radiator systems. I worked automotive for a number of years. There's no way around this. So I recommend that the Radiator fittings are at the bottom not the top of the vertical plane. This way if there's any air at all that it's trapped at the end where there is no way of it getting back into the pump.

I have mine mounted on the horizonal plane, with the fittings pointing toward the bottom of my case. No possible way air is going to get back to my pump since it would be trapped away from the side facing down. If you have this noise try rapping on the flow hose with a pencil. This would be the left hose, if the logo on the pump is upright.

Sometimes the noise won't go completely away but it should lessen. Mine doesn't make a peep.









~Ceadder


----------



## Gnomepatrol

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Well I have to say (and will probably get jumped on for it) that the sound that most people are hearing is due to air being stuck in the pump.

One of those YouTube vids is linked here in one of the earlier pages and it was found that once the flow tube was rapped on with a pencil the sound went away. I know that people don't believe there to be air in the system but I'm pretty certain there is knowing what I know about sealed Radiator systems. I worked automotive for a number of years. There's no way around this. So I recommend that the Radiator fittings are at the bottom not the top of the vertical plane. This way if there's any air at all that it's trapped at the end where there is no way of it getting back into the pump.

I have mine mounted on the horizonal plane, with the fittings pointing toward the bottom of my case. No possible way air is going to get back to my pump since it would be trapped away from the side facing down. If you have this noise try rapping on the flow hose with a pencil. This would be the left hose, if the logo on the pump is upright.

Sometimes the noise won't go completely away but it should lessen. Mine doesn't make a peep.









~Ceadder









Ceadder i believe you were the one a while back to suggest tapping on the lines where they meet the rad to me. For me once i did that i heard a HUGE woosh and the sound was gone for good. Every time i move my case i give it a good tap to get that woosh then silence. Also dropped my temps as well, better flow i am assuming.

It does work give it a try


----------



## Ceadderman

Holy moly you psychos' are busy tonite.









I don't know if it's worth $120.

Considering I would replace the fans @ $8 fpr 2 Yate Loon High Speeds.

Get 8 sheets of Sandpaper to lapp the Pump, possibly get some replacement Shin Etsu and get fan Silencers at $3 each(4)

I'd EASILY be $150 into it by time everything is said and done.

Whereas I was into my H50 for about $100 after everything was done.

The H70 has a 50mm Rad so if that is worth the $40-$50 increase in price for you then yeah I guess it is. If not I doubt that you'll be missing much in the way of a decrease in temps if you just went with the H50.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *pzyko80* 
hey guys need an opinion i dont have an h cooler yet was thinking of picking up the 70 but its like tagged at 120 bucks so far at the egg. is it really worth getting this cooler for that much??


----------



## Probi

Hey guys








Long time user just didn't realise there was such a forum for this cooler. I've been using it on a P6T and I7 920 oc'd to 3.8 24/7 for the last year and been very happy.







I'm such a sucker that I've been reading this post from the very beginning, I'm up to about page 450 and still going. Can't believe there's that much.









I just finished a new build as you can see in my signature and the one change I have done to start was to add another far to my H50 to have a push/pull exaust. I've been experimenting as I read along to experience the changes and don't want to jump right to the end.

I OC'd my new I7 930 to 4ghz easily with only giving it 1.23V and it was Prime stable overnight, the max temp was 82c which is totally normal for this chip but will attemp to bring it lower with improved cooling. Ambiant varies from 25c to 28c as my room get warm quick when I benchmark. My case is pretty crampted up but I make the best of it and it doesn't help that I have a GTX 480, it does get pretty hot in there.


----------



## Silvos00

It's a shame they don't make H50s for GPUs


----------



## extremecliff

Here is my H50 Mod running my Q9650 at 4.5 GHZ 24/7 7 Days a week and never exceeds 68C under Prime. Check it Out

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...l#post10366876


----------



## KruperTrooper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *extremecliff* 
Here is my H50 Mod running my Q9650 at 4.5 GHZ 24/7 7 Days a week and never exceeds 68C under Prime. Check it Out

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...l#post10366876



















Thats pretty B.A. dude.


----------



## Probi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *extremecliff* 
Here is my H50 Mod running my Q9650 at 4.5 GHZ 24/7 7 Days a week and never exceeds 68C under Prime. Check it Out

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...l#post10366876



















Did you originally start with the H50, why keep it in your full WC loop? Do you like it that much?


----------



## SightUp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *extremecliff* 
Here is my H50 Mod running my Q9650 at 4.5 GHZ 24/7 7 Days a week and never exceeds 68C under Prime. Check it Out

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...l#post10366876



















Dude, that is BADA$$! I am so doing something like this!


----------



## digital_steve

^ Why!? Get a proper pump and CPU plate and you'll be even better off


----------



## Magus2727

Hes got a pump.... the black box in the bottom... he must be using the H50 as kind of a "boost-a-pump"...

Its crazy.. what you got power, Memory, CPU, 2x GPU all under water...


----------



## smex

yea but the corsair will be more braking the waterflow instead of doin good..


----------



## reaper~

Well, I got mine today and for those of you that's already owned the H50, you won't see a huge difference in temps. I got 2 - 3C drop in temps but that's about it (I used the same AP-15 fans on both H50 and H70).










Please excuse the dust and unfinished sleeves. lol

Those new hoses are more rigid and not as flexible as the ones on H50 so I had to mount it this way or otherwise they'll bump that Corsair Airflow out of the way.









So if you already have a H50, stick with it. If you want better temps then get better fans, experiment with different TIM and various ways that you can mount the H50 (exhuast vs. intake), add some shrouds, etc. Hope this helps someone that's been thinking about getting the H70.

Also btw, I do top intake push/pull per Corsair's instruction. I got the best temps this way and I couldn't mount it on the back exhaust as the rad will hit that big northbridge heatsink there.


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reaper~*


Well, I got mine today and for those of you that's already owned the H50, you won't see a huge difference in temps. I got 2 - 3C drop in temps but that's about it (I used the same AP-15 fans on both H50 and H70).










Please excuse the dust and unfinished sleeves. lol

Those new hoses are more rigid and not as flexible as the ones on H50 so I had to mount it this way or otherwise they'll bump that Corsair Airflow out of the way.









So if you already have a H50, stick with it. If you want better temps then get better fans, experiment with different TIM and various ways that you can mount the H50 (exhuast vs. intake), add some shrouds, etc. Hope this helps someone that's been thinking about getting the H70.

Also btw, I do top intake push/pull per Corsair's instruction. I got the best temps this way and I couldn't mount it on the back exhaust as the rad will hit that big northbridge heatsink there.


I'll give you a +rep just for sticking your neck out there and making the upgrade for the rest of us! Thanks for the info.


----------



## reaper~

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cmeeks*


I'll give you a +rep just for sticking your neck out there and making the upgrade for the rest of us! Thanks for the info.


Heh thanks. I posted this because I wanna make sure that you guys don't spend money on something that isn't worth upgrading. H50 can give you good performance with some fine tuning (different fans, add some shrouds, etc). I could careless about the reps but thanks anyway.


----------



## sendblink23

I did say it earlier.... the H70 sucks, stick to the H50 + its cheaper than its new brother

But 2-3c is still good... just don't expect a huge improvement over the H50.


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *extremecliff*


Here is my H50 Mod running my Q9650 at 4.5 GHZ 24/7 7 Days a week and never exceeds 68C under Prime. Check it Out


I don't even know that I would consider that an h50 mod seeing as how your h50 is probably acting more like a head loss than a pump. I bet the other pump is actually pushing it faster than it's capable of turning on its own. Why don't you get a shiny new water block - like a Koolance CPU-360? Oooh, so sexy - that thing alone makes it sooooo tempting to go custom watercooling.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *extremecliff*












Hehehe that is just ridiculous pretty certain that has to be one of the LOUDESTS computers ever having an H50 modded.


----------



## frickfrock999

Quote:



Originally Posted by *extremecliff*


Here is my H50 Mod running my Q9650 at 4.5 GHZ 24/7 7 Days a week and never exceeds 68C under Prime. Check it Out

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...l#post10366876


----------



## KruperTrooper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cmeeks*


I don't even know that I would consider that an h50 mod seeing as how your h50 is probably acting more like a head loss than a pump. I bet the other pump is actually pushing it faster than it's capable of turning on its own. Why don't you get a shiny new water block - like a Koolance CPU-360? Oooh, so sexy - that thing alone makes it sooooo tempting to go custom watercooling.


WOW. That a damn good looking block. Makes me want to blow some more money and upgrade to legit watercooling.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hmmm looks like I was right on the money with my speculation.









Thanks for doing that though. +Rep









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *reaper~*


Well, I got mine today and for those of you that's already owned the H50, you won't see a huge difference in temps. I got 2 - 3C drop in temps but that's about it (I used the same AP-15 fans on both H50 and H70).

Please excuse the dust and unfinished sleeves. lol

Those new hoses are more rigid and not as flexible as the ones on H50 so I had to mount it this way or otherwise they'll bump that Corsair Airflow out of the way.









So if you already have a H50, stick with it. If you want better temps then get better fans, experiment with different TIM and various ways that you can mount the H50 (exhuast vs. intake), add some shrouds, etc. Hope this helps someone that's been thinking about getting the H70.

Also btw, I do top intake push/pull per Corsair's instruction. I got the best temps this way and I couldn't mount it on the back exhaust as the rad will hit that big northbridge heatsink there.


----------



## reaper~

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Hmmm looks like I was right on the money with my speculation.









Thanks for doing that though. +Rep









~Ceadder










No problem. I'm just glad that I was able to help some of you on the H70. I was gonna start a whole new thread with my quick impression but it's too much work and I got lazy. lol


----------



## Enphenate

My H70 is working great so far, i have bumped up to 3.8ghz on my 930 and my max temp so far is 58C idle is around 36-39C. This said i have never owned an h50 before this or any watercooling at all. My past CPU coolers have been a 775 Xigmantec cooler and the original Thermalright coolers back when they first entroduced the now popular cpu coolers.

Im trying to push and keep tweaking my settings and still waiting on my GT AP-15s!


----------



## Kyushu

I am thinking about getting the CM sniper with an intel i7 875k CPU and I want to overclock it to 4.0 ghz using either the Corsair H50 or H70. Is that possible? If so can anyone let me the the exact setup to use in order to achieve this; fan types and locations and direction of air flow including push/pull setup on the Radiator.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kyushu* 
I am thinking about getting the CM sniper with an intel i7 875k CPU and I want to overclock it to 4.0 ghz using either the Corsair H50 or H70. Is that possible? If so can anyone let me the the exact setup to use in order to achieve this; fan types and locations and direction of air flow including push/pull setup on the Radiator.

I dunno how many 5 1/4 devices you have if only 1 then it looks like with the CM sniper case it would be easy to put the H50 in the bays up front as intake which should give you the best setup. Many people have an I7 and easily run 4ghz using the H50 to keep it cool. For me at least the Sniper is just too small for my tastes I have a bigger mid tower and it is getting small I am going to go big full tower just haven't decided what exactly.


----------



## Kyushu

Yes I'll be using only 1 5.25 drive bay in the front, do you know exactly how I would mount it. Is there a standard spot on the top drive bay? Do I need to modify anything in the case? I want to run a push/pull configuration so it will be a bit thick. What would be the best overall airflow setup for the case with the h50 push/pull front intake setup?

Btw, I've been looking a lot recently and if you are thinking about getting a large case that's good. Give the cooler master "haf 932" with intake filter kit for it aswell. And also look at the cooler master "haf x", that's my favorite full large case that I've seen so far.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kyushu* 
Yes I'll be using only 1 5.25 drive bay in the front, do you know exactly how I would mount it. Is there a standard spot on the top drive bay? Do I need to modify anything in the case? I want to run a push/pull configuration so it will be a bit thick. What would be the best overall airflow setup for the case with the h50 push/pull front intake setup?

Btw, I've been looking a lot recently and if you are thinking about getting a large case that's good. Give the cooler master "haf 932" with intake filter kit for it aswell. And also look at the cooler master "haf x", that's my favorite full large case that I've seen so far.

Mounting the H50 in the Sniper case I don't know the case well enough to give a lot more details on mounting it other than if you can't find another way zip ties work just fine. I have pics posted if you click them from my sig that show the ghetto brackets I made to mount my H50.

Ya HAF X is on my list with Mountain Mods Pinnacle 18 and Corsair 800D. Leaning towards the MM Pinnacle though because of the customizability of it.

Here is how I want to configure it.


----------



## Kyushu

holy crap that thing is huge.

Zip ties ha... Ok.
Hey what size and length screws do I use if I want to use a shroud push/pull setup on the h50?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kyushu* 
 holy crap that thing is huge.

Zip ties ha... Ok.
Hey, are there any YouTube videos on how to make a shroud for the h50? When I do a search, I get a bunch of car shroud videos...

It's the same size as my current case just about 4 inches taller so not a big difference for me.

Making a shroud is easy if you have extra/junk/non-working 120mm fans around. Cut out the motor/fan assembly and voila instant shroud. Corsair even includes a free shroud with every H50







I only had one extra fan to use as a shroud and wanted two so I picked up an extra from a local computer shop for $1.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hack out the fan internals from the furthest points away from the hub. Viola! fan shroud.









I apologize if this is late. My browser window crashed three times now cause some stupid GIF in one of my other tabs.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kyushu* 
 holy crap that thing is huge.

Zip ties ha... Ok.
Hey what size and length screws do I use if I want to use a shroud push/pull setup on the h50?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kyushu* 
 holy crap that thing is huge.

Zip ties ha... Ok.
Hey what size and length screws do I use if I want to use a shroud push/pull setup on the h50?

They are 6/32 screws for the H50 if your adding shrouds the length will vary because there's many different shroud/fan thicknesses.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sirrick* 
HI everybody!

I've been reading A LOT in this thread, not the 1253 pages though!
I just assembled my rig yesterday, I'm testing the temps on my I7 at 1.32v and 4Gh, but I think I have some problems with my H50:

1.- the pump it's quite loud, and more than a buzzing or humming noise is like a clicking noise, like when you touch the blades of a fan with a piece of paper.
2.- My temps are terrible, reaching 90 degrees full load with Prime95, and OCCT just last 3m or so and reach 80 degrees (I'm attaching a picture of it), with the case open and with an ambient temperature of 22 degrees, the pump shows 1360RPM which should be correct, on other hand I think the heat transfer between the block and the radiator it's ok, because the radiator gets quite hot too, that's why I think the pump must be working fine apart of how loud it is.

I know that using a pull/push configuration my temps are going to improve, but I think even with the stock fan they should be much better than this right?

on other hand just for testing I installed a TT ISGC-300 and the temps were like 4 degrees higher only.

here are the specs and a pictures

I7 930
ASUS X58D-E
ASUS 5870
3X2G hyper-X 1600
Corsair H50
Cooler Master 960 II advance

BTW in the next picture the idle temp is quite high but is with the fan at minimum, 530RPM



















I hope some one can help me with this problems

cheers!!!


I might think yo may have air in the line too. Why not flip the rad over so you know the air would be at the top. (if any)

Might try that, The Corsair symbol don't mean a whole lot positioned that way anyways.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Mounting the H50 in the Sniper case I don't know the case well enough to give a lot more details on mounting it other than if you can't find another way zip ties work just fine. I have pics posted if you click them from my sig that show the ghetto brackets I made to mount my H50.

Ya HAF X is on my list with Mountain Mods Pinnacle 18 and Corsair 800D. Leaning towards the MM Pinnacle though because of the customizability of it.

Here is how I want to configure it.










_*You want a Case not a block of Swiss Cheese!*_

Good Golly!

Go for it...


----------



## extremecliff

I'm afraid to get a block because my system is so dialed in. I'm afraid any other block wont perform as well as my H50 as far as cpu temps. I big time lapped my cpu and H50 pump. And because of that and how well my system is set up, I left it as is. Didn't plan on it. Just happened. I dont regret it either.


----------



## Magus2727

^^^^ how did you mod the H50 to take the what looks like 1/2" ID tube?


----------



## PCSarge

i dunno but i think hes nuts o.o id want a bit cleaner look with my lines... that looks like a rats nest lol


----------



## Silvos00

Out of curiosity, I tested the temps I have with my H50 p/p in my NZXT M59(rad inside), vs. the SOLARIS where I had it zip tied outside the case. I saw a 5C increase in temps with just 1 fan. Is this due to the mesh of a typical case blocking airflow? If it comes down to it I'll just mount the rad on top of the case.


----------



## pedrosa

Just installed the H70 with the stock tim & corsair fans running full bore(loud)!
Comparison pics, H50,H70.
Not a great drop in temps but not bad.Attachment 168539

Attachment 168540
Ambient temp 22c on both tests...
I'm gonna order some GT fans and try them out. I'll report my findings soon.


----------



## Shadow9025

Anyone see an H70 for sale? I would really like to get it by friday so I can play with it on the weekend







I saw it on amazon for $92 last night I really should of just bought it but something seemed odd about amazon having them and newegg/frozencpu/microcenter not.


----------



## skuzzzzy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shadow9025* 
Anyone see an H70 for sale? I would really like to get it by friday so I can play with it on the weekend







I saw it on amazon for $92 last night I really should of just bought it but something seemed odd about amazon having them and newegg/frozencpu/microcenter not.

amazons just a preorder. says ships in 1-2 months.


----------



## Shadow9025

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skuzzzzy*


amazons just a preorder. says ships in 1-2 months.


Yeah last night it had some in stock and it was cheaper which is why I am kicking myself for not just grabbing one.


----------



## skuzzzzy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shadow9025*


Yeah last night it had some in stock and it was cheaper which is why I am kicking myself for not just grabbing one.


wow it did go up, glad i ordered one last night =\\.


----------



## SightUp

I know a site that has 25 of them in stock!


----------



## yang88she

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SightUp* 
I know a site that has 25 of them in stock!

Drum roll, so where?


----------



## skuzzzzy

removed so sightup can get the spotlight


----------



## SightUp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skuzzzzy*


http://www.linkecomputer.com/product...WCH70/CORSAIR/


I hate you! It was my turn for the spot light!

BANHAMMER!


----------



## skuzzzzy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SightUp*


I hate you! It was my turn for the spot light!

BANHAMMER!


i removed it so you can have the spotlight, your time to shine.


----------



## GameBoy

Hey guys, quick question about the H50, would it be better if I set up the H50 as exhaust or intake? bear in mind I have two top exhaust fans in my CM590.


----------



## Magus2727

depending on how much heat that 4850 makes usualy intake is better. but it depends on the case, the location of the case and over all airflow. most people only see a 2-3 deg change if that between the two. if you have good enough airflow then there should be nver littler difference between the two.

Go intake, and then try exhaust and see what gives the better temps.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GameBoy*


Hey guys, quick question about the H50, would it be better if I set up the H50 as exhaust or intake? bear in mind I have two top exhaust fans in my CM590.


Up front as intake would yield the best results. You never mentioned exactly where you have it mounted I would guess just back of the case. Front intake from H50, side intake, back exhaust, top exhaust-yields a good air flow in the case and the best temps you can get from the H50 unless you have a heat source at the front of your case. A lot of video cards and power supplies vent hot air out the back of the case so intake at the back of the case isn't always the best option not to mention it messes up the air flow of a lot of cases and then really wreaks havoc on the rest of the computer because of all the excess heat.


----------



## mauley

I joined








I have my H50 set up in a push/pull config, both as exhaust too. Now i guess i should start overclocking my i5-760 and see what this baby can do.


----------



## shaddix

H50 arriving tomorrow. Antec 1200, has anyone moved their optical drives down to the 3rd(from the top) drive cage bay and mounted the radiator up top? I hear the h50 can put out some heat and don't want it blowing over my ram.


----------



## Timechange01

Can i dip my H50 radiator in water in order to clean it? Just the radiator

I am aware that there is a pump connected to the other end of the tubes


----------



## KruperTrooper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Timechange01*


Can i dip my H50 radiator in water in order to clean it? Just the radiator

I am aware that there is a pump connected to the other end of the tubes


Iso alcohol would probably be better. Then just use compressed air to clean up any dried up dust.


----------



## TweakerNoob

+Rep for the mod!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *extremecliff*












IDK, everything in the case is under water. Rats nest?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


i dunno but i think hes nuts o.o id want a bit cleaner look with my lines... that looks like a rats nest lol


The GT's will be a lot quieter but I doubt much difference in temps. GT's strong suit is quiet not cooling power.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pedrosa*


I'm gonna order some GT fans and try them out. I'll report my findings soon.


----------



## staryoshi

GentleTyphoons push tons of air through the h50 radiator. Their specialty is being amazing


----------



## KruperTrooper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TweakerNoob*


The GT's will be a lot quieter but I doubt much difference in temps. GT's strong suit is quiet not cooling power.


Wrong.

GT's have really good static pressure which makes them ideal for use with rads.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Timechange01*


Can i dip my H50 radiator in water in order to clean it? Just the radiator

I am aware that there is a pump connected to the other end of the tubes


. . .Eziest way to clean out the lint and all, (i found







), considering you have it removed from your motherboard, 
as well as take some compress'd air {lightly} to blow dry off . . .

. . . oh Yeah, _*WELCOME*_







to this thread/forum for here . . . .
{ and @ other's NEW for here ... also . . . . .







}

mr-Charles . .









.


----------



## Timechange01

Ah I see thanks for the replies guys. I was going to do a custom loop but due to financial situation I have decided to keep my H50 for several more months

-Sam


----------



## Shadow9025

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SightUp*


I know a site that has 25 of them in stock!


Awesome thanks! Is this a reputable site? I have never bought anything from here and online sites other than newegg/frozencpu make me nervous lol.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shadow9025*


Awesome thanks! Is this a reputable site? I have never bought anything from here and online sites other than newegg/frozencpu make me nervous lol.


Yea I bought a few things from them before and they were shipped almost as fast as newegg.


----------



## BreakDown

so i wanted to buy a h50 for a long time, and now im saving up to do so.

but the h70 came out, is it better?

should i get the h50 or h70?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BreakDown*


so i wanted to buy a h50 for a long time, and now im saving up to do so.

but the h70 came out, is it better?

should i get the h50 or h70?


Is the H70 better well...if you keep it totally stock don't add different fan(s) or shrouds or anything yes of course the H70 is better. Is it worth the premium price? Not in my opinion not at all. If I was looking for a CPU cooler now I would still buy the H50 and two fans and make two shrouds. I may end up buying another H50 for another one of my computers at least if they don't drop the price of the H70 drastically.


----------



## Magus2727

I would get the H70... I like the low profile pump. I think it looks alot better. I dont know about you, but I am not into modding the H50, the time and effort in the H50 I think would be beter invested into saving for a full WC loop. but thats me. if you have the extra 20-30 bucks then get the H70. if not see if the H50 goes on sail ans pick it up for around $60.....


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


I would get the H70... I like the low profile pump. I think it looks alot better. I dont know about you, but I am not into modding the H50, the time and effort in the H50 I think would be beter invested into saving for a full WC loop. but thats me. if you have the extra 20-30 bucks then get the H70. if not see if the H50 goes on sail ans pick it up for around $60.....


The problem with the H70 is that the fans are quite loud when they are at full speed so I would have to add two more fans just to be at the noise level I find acceptable so the price of the H70 would be ~$130. H50 with two fans ~$90. Actually I think I spent less than $90 total on my H50 with the two GT AP15 fans.


----------



## The Godfather

Just ordered mine from Newegg. Should be here tomorrow

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...=Corsair%20H70


----------



## BreakDown

Thanks for answering.

I really hate noise on the computer, i have two noctua fans from my current CPU cooler, could i use those on the H70? if thats the case, that would cut down the noise wouldnt it?

ill take a look at the prices of both and decide then. but bascially the h70 is not THAT much better.

im looking to replace the cpu cooler because mine is a pain to remove* and i just like the h50/70.

one last question, is the h50/h70 easy to clean? that is a main concern for me.

*my current cpu cooler is a pain for cleaning on my particular case because there is not enough room to manipulate it because i have such a small mobo

thanks


----------



## Magus2727

Get the H50, get a pair of 140mm fans and use some 120mm to 140mm shrouds. that will cut down on noise, and still provide good cooling. it will take up more room....

Ideally though with the H70 being a thicker radiator you could run slower fans but cooler better since you have more surface area from the radiator.


----------



## chaoticfury

Hey guys,

Got my H50 recently and installed it in my HAF 932. I have it mounted in the front bays as many people suggested. I am not sure if the temperatures I am getting are correct or accurate at all. They seem a bit high but I will run it by you guys. I would give you the ambient temperature of the room but I have no idea.

Idle *Chrome, Itunes Open* (Using Everest Ultimate)

CPU: 30C
Core 1: 46
Core 2: 42
Core 3: 38
Core 4: 37

After Running Prime for 60 Minutes

Core 1: 59
Core 2: 53
Core 3: 52
Core 4: 52

Let me know what you guys think. I am going to upload some photos later to see if anyone has any advice on how to move things around or remount them.

Extra info: The H50 is using push pull with 
S-Flex
120x120x25mm
1,200rpm
20.1dBA
49.0CFM
0.15A


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BreakDown* 
Thanks for answering.

I really hate noise on the computer, i have two noctua fans from my current CPU cooler, could i use those on the H70? if thats the case, that would cut down the noise wouldnt it?

ill take a look at the prices of both and decide then. but bascially the h70 is not THAT much better.

im looking to replace the cpu cooler because mine is a pain to remove* and i just like the h50/70.

one last question, is the h50/h70 easy to clean? that is a main concern for me.

*my current cpu cooler is a pain for cleaning on my particular case because there is not enough room to manipulate it because i have such a small mobo

thanks

As long as the Noctua fans are 120mm fans they would work fine with either the H50 or H70.

I think two pages back someone got a H70 and had a H50 prior hooked up the same exact fans that he had on the H50 to the H70 and only got 1-3C difference for the difference in prices not worth it to me.

The H50 would be easier to clean because you can just unscrew it from the case/where you have it mounted and with the length of the tubes coming from the pump it should be easy to move around and clean. I have double filters setup for my H50/front fan because my case has built in filters on the front and I bought some DEMCiflex to go over all of my intake fans and the top of my case to keep out the dust/dirt since installing the new filters there is no need to clean the H50 just the filters.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chaoticfury* 
Hey guys,

Got my H50 recently and installed it in my HAF 932. I have it mounted in the front bays as many people suggested. I am not sure if the temperatures I am getting are correct or accurate at all. They seem a bit high but I will run it by you guys. I would give you the ambient temperature of the room but I have no idea.

Idle *Chrome, Itunes Open* (Using Everest Ultimate)

CPU: 30C
Core 1: 46
Core 2: 42
Core 3: 38
Core 4: 37

After Running Prime for 60 Minutes

Core 1: 59
Core 2: 53
Core 3: 52
Core 4: 52

Let me know what you guys think. I am going to upload some photos later to see if anyone has any advice on how to move things around or remount them.

Extra info: The H50 is using push pull with
S-Flex
120x120x25mm
1,200rpm
20.1dBA
49.0CFM
0.15A

Those look like good temps to me from what I could find for the Q9450 the max spec temp is suppose to be 71.4C you are well under that at full load. I wouldn't change anything if those where my temps with that CPU.


----------



## Brian_

Just drove out to bestbuy earlier and bought myself a h50. Id have to say i'm impressed, but it took forever to install the thing. i had to use superglue on my push fan because i didn't have a screw long enough to go to the rad.
























Sorry about the pictures they are from my iphone, didnt feel like digging out the good ole camera.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Brian_* 
Just drove out to bestbuy earlier and bought myself a h50. Id have to say i'm impressed, but it took forever to install the thing. i had to use superglue on my push fan because i didn't have a screw long enough to go to the rad..

You should have used Zip Ties or Black tape... or some other thing... not Super Glue lol What happens if you want to switch the fans around or use other type of fans?


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Brian_* 
Just drove out to bestbuy earlier and bought myself a h50. Id have to say i'm impressed, but it took forever to install the thing. *i had to use superglue on my push fan* because i didn't have a screw long enough to go to the rad.









lol Superglue ftw.









Next time, just drive down to your local hardware store (OSH, Home Depot, etc) and get some of these:










^ These are the correct size if you have 120x25mm fans.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
You should have used Zip Ties or Black tape... or some other thing... not Super Glue lol What happens if you want to switch the fans around or use other type of fans?

Or need to clean the fan/radiator.


----------



## Kyushu

Is the h70 stock push/pull better than the h50 with 2 gentle typhoon ap14 fans in push/pull + shroud setup?


----------



## Killhouse

You could just use 2 screws on the pull fan and 2 on the push


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kyushu* 
Is the h70 stock push/pull better than the h50 with 2 gentle typhoon ap14 fans in push/pull + shroud setup?

You're not gonna see a huge difference between those 2 setups plus the stock fans on the H70 are loud. Right now, for the people that already own the H50, I don't think they should upgrade to the H70 because of this. But if you don't own either one right now and don't mind paying premium for the H70 then go for it.









I might experiment with some 38mm fans later on since the H70 does have a thicker rad and I'm wondering if these GTs aren't enough (to push air through thicker rad).


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kyushu* 
Is the h70 stock push/pull better than the h50 with 2 gentle typhoon ap14 fans in push/pull + shroud setup?

It would be hard to say for sure. I think the stock H70 fans which can be set to 2k rpm or 1600 rpm are higher CFM for sure at 2k dunno at 1600 have heard they are quite loud at 2k though. If you just take the fans you have on your H50 and moved them to a new H70 for sure it would be better but as someone posted a few pages back only a few C difference for them.


----------



## shapiror06

I ordered my H70 from Amazon, $92 with free shipping! Looks like price went back up to $102 already.


----------



## skier

i have an H50, run the fans off board headers and the pump off a molex-3pin connector

not very recent, and i dont run it as intake atm (i go back and forth a lot depending on outside air)









i'll be buying a H70 as soon as i get some spare money(in 2 yrs prolly LOL)

oh yeah, i lapped it


























Note^ the block is NOT wet, it is reflecting the image of the wet sandpaper


----------



## Brian_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
You should have used Zip Ties or Black tape... or some other thing... not Super Glue lol What happens if you want to switch the fans around or use other type of fans?

utility knife i just lightly edged both sides, on a side note the h50 makes my case look so clean


----------



## Silvos00

Not a bump, but I did have an edit to my question about where the rad goes. On all fans and rads (especially on the H50) does it matter much if there is mesh in front of the rad/fans?


----------



## Enphenate

Well finally i was able to run prime95 for two hours on my H70 and 3.8ghz overclock

I forgot to open my room windows and door though and it was miserably hot in the room even before i started prime. Definately the highest temps ive gotten so far with the h70, but today has also been an extremely hot California day.









My gentle typhoon AP15 have arrived so im going to install them and report back. Also im going to try the H70 as a exhaust from the top back fan instead of intake from the back.


----------



## TweakerNoob

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KruperTrooper* 
Wrong.

GT's have really good static pressure which makes them ideal for use with rads.

There has been many people here that have come to the same conclusion; very little difference in temps. The hydro rad is not very dense thus not requiring high static pressure anyways. Just saying, yes the GT's are very nice fans but they are not going to squash the Corsair branded fans in the numbers.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TweakerNoob* 
There has been many people here that have come to the same conclusion; very little difference in temps. The hydro rad is not very dense thus not requiring high static pressure anyways. Just saying, yes the GT's are very nice fans but they are not going to squash the Corsair branded fans in the numbers.

I went from ~65C to ~42C just adding GT AP15 fans. Then adding two shrouds and moving it to front intake another ~5C. Though this is with an AMD CPU so much lower temps to begin with than the I7's. So at least with me the Corsair stock fan is only worth using as a shroud so say that is pretty squashed.


----------



## Alexossi79

Hi

Just got my H50 for 55â‚¬














. Used by other guy for few hours but still good deal. Want to install push/pull with 2 Tacens Ice fans.

Need your opinion about this setup. Will they do their job? ( Tacens Fans)


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^I don't know Tacens but if you can find them in Europe Yate Loons work really really really well. Cheaper too. Mine cost me $4 US each. Doesn't matter which speed either. My High Speeds are rated at 88cfm.







^^^

I have to say the same thing with mine but I also lapped my 955 and used Yate Loon High Speeds instead of the stock Yate Loon Medium(rough guesstimate) Speed fan. Actually it was more than likely a Slow Speed model. I'm not sure about the Static pressure but it probably doesn't make much of a difference in that regard.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I went from ~65C to ~42C just adding GT AP15 fans. Then adding two shrouds and moving it to front intake another ~5C. Though this is with an AMD CPU so much lower temps to begin with than the I7's. So at least with me the Corsair stock fan is only worth using as a shroud so say that is pretty squashed.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Alexossi79* 
Hi

Just got my H50 for 55â‚¬














. Used by other guy for few hours but still good deal. Want to install push/pull with 2 Tacens Ice fans.

Need your opinion about this setup. Will they do their job? ( Tacens Fans)

I am guessing your talking about the Tacen Aura Ice fans they are only rated at 45cfm and 1200rpm while the stock H50 is 50cfm and 1600rpm. I would not think they would work that well with the H50 being such low CFM and RPM.


----------



## SightUp

/me shines! shhhhing


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
If you just take the fans you have on your H50 and moved them to a new H70 for sure it would be better but as someone posted a few pages back only a few C difference for them.

They were only running at 3.8GHz. I'd really like to see a comparison on here with 4.0-4.2Ghz. Either way I want one, but I guess I'll have to dremel a corner off the bottom fan so it fits.


----------



## eternal7trance

That's a really nice fit Jocelyn, I think I will definitely go with the h70 for my silverstone.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternal7trance* 
That's a really nice fit Jocelyn, I think I will definitely go with the h70 for my silverstone.

That's an H50 in the pic...


----------



## digital_steve

Save money on the H70 and get a lapping kit. You'll see a temp difference with less outlay.


----------



## Jocelyn84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
That's an H50 in the pic...

Sure, but the H70 will fit with ease using eternal7trance's board in an RV02. I think that's what was meant anyway.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternal7trance* 
Yea I know she has an h50, I was just saying it makes me want to get the h70.

/Fixed


----------



## Alexossi79

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
I am guessing your talking about the Tacen Aura Ice fans they are only rated at 45cfm and 1200rpm while the stock H50 is 50cfm and 1600rpm. I would not think they would work that well with the H50 being such low CFM and RPM.

No. I've 2 o these http://www.tacens.com/ventusice.php

But U right. they won't work. I have to stay with one stock and one from my Scout that was in back of case.

Around 35*C idle is ok for me ...but noise














I just hate it









Will post some pic if will find some time


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
That's an H50 in the pic...

Yea I know he has an h50, I was just saying it makes me want to get the h70.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Alexossi79* 
No. I've 2 o these http://www.tacens.com/ventusice.php

But U right. they won't work. I have to stay with one stock and one from my Scout that was in back of case.

Around 35*C idle is ok for me ...but noise














I just hate it









Will post some pic if will find some time









Actually at least CFM specs they are the same as the stock Corsair fan that comes with the H50. I wouldn't hurt to try them if you already have them.


----------



## Wingzero

Man still need to send my h50 to rma need it badly stock is just fail and then some more fail.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wingzero*


Man still need to send my h50 to rma need it badly stock is just fail and then some more fail.


What do you mean?


----------



## KusH

Just curious, you can't detach the hoses on these unit's can you? Because for me it would be best to mount to the outside of my case if possible.


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KusH*


Just curious, you can't detach the hoses on these unit's can you? Because for me it would be best to mount to the outside of my case if possible.


Voids the warranty... but you can do it if you want; check the H50 mod thread.


----------



## Ceadderman

He means that he needs to send his H50 in to have it replaced. He's running the stock Intel Cooler in the meantime and as everyone knows the Intel Cooler blows. And not in a good way. Basically he's been lazy about the RMA.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper*


What do you mean?


----------



## antonbrk

H50 owner for about 2 months. My unlocked Phenom 555 stays at 47-50C in Prime95 testing (20C amb.), in an Antec 300. H50 is exhaust push-pull via stock Antec 120mm rear fan, 2 Scythe Flex 1600s in front, stock fan at the top rear. Can one buy shrouds, or all posts referring to gutted fans? In my case, would a shroud placed between innermost fan and radiator be worthwhile? I'm guessing not, but wanted to ask anyway. I'm a first time budget builder doing first overclocking effort, and am thrilled, frankly, that the H50 worked out so well. -Much thanks.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


He means that he needs to send his H50 in to have it replaced. He's running the stock Intel Cooler in the meantime and as everyone knows the Intel Cooler blows. And not in a good way. Basically he's been lazy about the RMA.
 








~Ceadder










Oh I thought he was complaining about the H50 performance on his i7... At 4.3Ghz I wouldn't be surprised if it didn't perform well.

I'm no longer an H50 owner :O


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *extremecliff*


I'm afraid to get a block because my system is so dialed in. I'm afraid any other block wont perform as well as my H50 as far as cpu temps. I big time lapped my cpu and H50 pump. And because of that and how well my system is set up, I left it as is. Didn't plan on it. Just happened. I dont regret it either.




















AN EPIC JAW DROP!


----------



## Timechange01

How important is the adhesive thing that goes in between the motherboard and the backplate?

My new mobo is coming in the mail tomorrow so I had to remove the adhesive from my old board but it ripped and basically fell apart. So not only is the adhesive now gone, but I really dont want to stick that gooey thing on my new mobo.

Any way around this?


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Timechange01*


How important is the adhesive thing that goes in between the motherboard and the backplate?

My new mobo is coming in the mail tomorrow so I had to remove the adhesive from my old board but it ripped and basically fell apart. So not only is the adhesive now gone, but I really dont want to stick that gooey thing on my new mobo.

Any way around this?


If you have a metal backplate laying around you might just replace the h50 plastic backplate as it's pretty flimsy anyway.

With my LGA775 setup, I was able to use this backplate with the original h50 screws (though w/ a small washer)

...I have found that these metal backplates are somewhat difficult to get ahold of - find the thickest heaviest one you can and hold onto it.


----------



## BIGWORM

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Timechange01* 
How important is the adhesive thing that goes in between the motherboard and the backplate?

My new mobo is coming in the mail tomorrow so I had to remove the adhesive from my old board but it ripped and basically fell apart. So not only is the adhesive now gone, but I really dont want to stick that gooey thing on my new mobo.

Any way around this?

I would imagine it's pretty important, and keeps your mounting brackets from shorting out your motherboard. Grab some Goo-Gone from Walmart to remove the excess adhesive from the last strips, and buy some more adhesive strips and you should be good to go.


----------



## Ceadderman

I just got some Scotch tape(3M) mounting tape and used that instead. Still sticks to the MoBo but not as sticky as the supplied strips. And it's thinner so it allows the H50 to be mounted to the clamp easier. If you got the polymer backplate no need to worry about it shorting anything out. It's non conductive.









~Ceadder


----------



## BIGWORM

I noticed I had the block retainer damn-near dangling off the brackets before the CPU block itself would mount and twist properly.


----------



## Ceadderman

It's sposed to be that way. They show it in the how-to Vid that Jeff from Corsair put together.









~Ceadder


----------



## Timechange01

Somebody in another thread wrote:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Those adhesive pads make no difference whatsoever, its just to stop the backplate dropping off when you take the bracket off.

Can I use industrial strength velcro? cut into the exact same shape as the adhesive that the H50 came with?


----------



## Ceadderman

Wouldn't that be a good source of static?









Just a thought.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Timechange01* 
Somebody in another thread wrote:

Can I use industrial strength velcro? cut into the exact same shape as the adhesive that the H50 came with?


----------



## Kaeth

So I have an ATCS 840 in the mail.

I have the option to:

A: Use the H70 as rear upper intake (Sounds like a terrible idea though that's installation directions)
B: Use the H70 as rear Push/Pull Exhaust
C: Remove the front upper 230mm Exhaust and use the H70 as Push/Pull Intake
D: Remove the front upper 230mm Exhaust and use the H70 as Push/Pull Exhaust
E: Turn the front upper 230mm exhaust into intake and use the H70 as Push/Pull upper rear Exhaust.

I'm looking for what will generate the best health for my total system.

Intaking air from the rear sounds like a bad, bad idea, even in an ATCS 840.

I'm rather fond of idea E myself.

PS: I'm replacing stock fans with two Scythe Gentle Typhoons.


----------



## KusH

Quote:


Originally Posted by *joavery* 
So I have an ATCS 840 in the mail.

I have the option to:

A: Use the H70 as rear upper intake (Sounds like a terrible idea though that's installation directions)
B: Use the H70 as rear Push/Pull Exhaust
C: Remove the front upper 230mm Exhaust and use the H70 as Push/Pull Intake
D: Remove the front upper 230mm Exhaust and use the H70 as Push/Pull Exhaust
E: Turn the front upper 230mm exhaust into intake and use the H70 as Push/Pull upper rear Exhaust.

I'm looking for what will generate the best health for my total system.

Intaking air from the rear sounds like a bad, bad idea, even in an ATCS 840.

I'm rather fond of idea E myself.

PS: I'm replacing stock fans with two Scythe Gentle Typhoons.

Option B. would be best.


----------



## djsi38t

Intakeing cool air for the rad is the best way to cool your cpu.Using heated inside air is lousy way.The thing is you need top exhaust in order to do it.

I have 2 top 140mm fans for exhaust it would be downright stupid to use the hot inside air for the rad.I use cool exterior air for my setup and it works much much better.


----------



## BIGWORM

I have mine setup as intake from the back with the stock Corsair fan that came with it. My temps are 33/68 after 40 runs on LinX. I got another 120MM and a couple of burned case fans I can convert into shrouds. Will I need another set of extended case screws?


----------



## Santorican

Hello all, I am a total newbie to water cooling. I have zero experience with it and I am seriously considering getting the Corsair H50 for my new set up. I'm just very leery because I am part of the what if it leaks club... I've read through this thread about 20 pages and no leaks so far but I'm also wondering if anyone has a good installation diagram. I went to corsairs website and theirs was okay but left me wanting. Specifically when to install the water into the cooler.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Santorican*


Hello all, I am a total newbie to water cooling. I have zero experience with it and I am seriously considering getting the Corsair H50 for my new set up. I'm just very leery because I am part of the what if it leaks club... I've read through this thread about 20 pages and no leaks so far but I'm also wondering if anyone has a good installation diagram. I went to corsairs website and theirs was okay but left me wanting. Specifically when to install the water into the cooler.


You don't install water into the system. The H50 is a completely closed system and comes with the coolant already in it. In regards to leaking, I wouldn't worry too much. It's a very uncommon problem.


----------



## Magus2727

also in the very rare case that it does leak, Corsair warranties everything damaged by it... dont think you can go wrong there....


----------



## Santorican

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


You don't install water into the system. The H50 is a completely closed system and comes with the coolant already in it. In regards to leaking, I wouldn't worry too much. It's a very uncommon problem.










That is awesome!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


also in the very rare case that it does leak, Corsair warranties everything damaged by it... dont think you can go wrong there....


Just in case do you know what their warranty process is like? That is a pretty sweet deal!


----------



## SolarisPrime

Just thought I'd post some info that my father has told me about using fans with radiators. He designs systems for large trucks which obviously use fans for cooling their large radiators.

Hopefully it will help people thinking of their own cooling or give a little light reading lol

I have a H50 and have been messing around with cooling in my system.

From reading different forums about cooling, people seem to only be getting differences of 1 or 2 deg in push/ pull systems over the single fan. Also people are experimenting with shrouds with again maybe one or two degrees difference.

From what I understand from my father, a fan needs a certain volume of air to dissipate the heat from the radiator. Now this does not necessarily mean air forced through at a great speed.

If a fan pushes air too fast through a radiator it doesn't have enough time to take away the heat. With the trucks, what they do is work out the rads air volume needed, then they match the right fan to the rad. So sticking ultra kraze 3000 rpm fans will probs get to a point where more rpm doesn't have an effect. Just like our heating systems in UK houses that require you to slow the water speed enough so it has time to be heated. Opening the water valves means too much water is flowing too fast to be heated by the heating system. the same happens in reverse for cooling in our rad and fan systems.

Push/pull setups too would have to be using a push fan and a pull fan rather than just two identical fans. There is a difference in a push fan and a pull fan. So a fan in our systems set up as a pull fan may not have much effect on the rad at all, depending on the fans. So if we get a degree or too difference in our systems using identical fans, well that's as best as we can probs hope for.
I would imagine these pc fans are made to do both pull and push but as each is different they don't always perform the same. Two fans pushing and pulling may also not be in sync, causing air to behave strange maybe even raising temps too.

Using shrouds. Using a shroud with your fan to increase the area of the rad that gets air from the fan. ( As the centre of the fan behind the motor will be warmer) Its actually a little more complicated than sticking a shroud on the fan, the shape of the tip of the blades and the distance between the fan blade tip and its own shell actually makes a difference when using a shroud and when not. A duct is more efficient than just a spacing shroud. Again these have to be matched to the right shape shroud and the right distances between the fan tip and the fan case. You can go on for ever trying to come up with the right duct and fan combination, fan shape ask any R & D department in any major manufacturing plant.
So again the best we could hope for with a shroud on our setups is again 1 or 2 degrees. Even with a shroud the part in the middle of the rad will still not be as efficient as the outside edges. The further back from the rad the fan is set will give better results as the air has time to vortex more or less can't remember which and fill the space more. So maybe setting your fan a little back and have a small duct system rather than just a shroud, which are just usually a fan case, might give better results.

So from what I have seen in my own setup, trying push pull, intake, exhaust, the best thing would be to get your case taking in as much cool air as you can with out, annoying your neighbours, from what ever ambient temp room you have in your room and then have either one or two fans on your rad, exhausting air out of your case. Just have one or two fans on your rad that are not too fast and maybe not too loud. That's as probs as good a system setup you will have in your ambient room. Then enough cool air is blowing over the rad and has enough contact with the fan to dissipate heat.

I have only one graphics card in and even at idle in the bios, you can feel the heat pipes on the card, heat up a fair bit. So having SLI is going to make the heat your then pushing over your radiator and out your case a lot higher. So the question is is that heat lower or higher than pulling air in over your radiator and into your case and then heated by what ever graphics set up you have.

yes,I have had mine cooler intaking cool air from outside the window over the rad and my ambient temp was lower but only at idle. I'm sure when it's on full load the temp inside the case will rise somewhat. With my setup my fans on full don't make any difference from about 50-70% so it means the rad is saturated and the volume of cool air is not enough or going too fast through the rad. Also the motor heat will be adding a little too.

I found my second fan pulling air out of the case and radiator, didn't have any impact on the temp. In fact you could tell from the sound of the fan it wasn't having any resistance from anything, such as air pulled through a radiator behind it. This possibly means that it isn't pulling air very effectively but is pushing air well.

I hope this is helpful, I just found it interesting messing with my own system to see how little things change, in temps. today it's warmer outside and inside so my temps are a few deg warmer and all fan positions seem to have the same temps, even at full fan speed i cant get the temps that I had yesterday and they are not that higher really. Cooling is a bit like bridge building there isn't really a correct way of doing things especially in our cheap manufactured products we seem to be getting now. Every part of the PC I have just built, that was made in a certain developing nation, has been sent back faulty. It's about time our corporations stopped using cheap labour and cheap parts. That's another rant though.

enough


----------



## reaper~

^ Thanks for that info (+ first rep for you







). I've always thought the same thing about the fan speed and whether or not there was enough time when it passes through the rad to cool it down. So theoretically, using higher RPM fans doesn't always necessary mean that you'll get better temps.

I've been meaning to experiment with different types of fans (not only ones with lower RPM but also mix and match different RPM fans for push/pull setup) and also I might get that CoolIT with 240 rad for my other rig just to compare the two (right now I'm using the H70 on this rig).

Edit: where are my manners.. this was your first post (and what a great post) so welcome to OCN.


----------



## Magus2727

Good long post...

I think most people who have followed this thread for a little bit know that RPM's and air flow is not as important as the pressure... you can have a 200 CFM fan that has no pressure levels and would be crap on a radiator.

I do not agree with the Airflow being to much... having worked on cars I know the fluid transfer to the radiator needs to maintain a good speed to exhange as much heat as possible, but I think that ends there. what I know about thermal dynamics is...

*pulls thermaldynamics book out and relizes its to much work to put the questions in a text box*

due to the larger surface area and fin density more air flow will and can potentialy drop the temp to that of ambiant. For an air cooler when it gets hotter you increase the fan speed and the temp drops. this will not be the case when you get up to speed of light type speeds.

The engine cooling systems that your dad does for large trucks is a little different. Engines are designed to run optimally at a given temp (for cars usualy between 195 to 210, not sure on large trucks) below that they run rich and not optimaly.

for a CPU i dont think there is any min temp that should be maintained.

just my thoughts after reading.


----------



## RonB94GT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
I do not agree with the Airflow being to much... having worked on cars I know the fluid transfer to the radiator needs to maintain a good speed to exhange as much heat as possible, but I think that ends there.

+1 Also in cars you have a thermostat so the water is not continually flowing.


----------



## Zavia

I really want to love my H50 but when my system arrived it was way too hot after a few simple adjustments. i took off the H50 reseated it and there was no change. i had some pos 1300rpm fan on the H50 instead of a corsair fan so i ordered a set of Scythe Slipstream SY1225SL12SH's which will show up tomorrow. I am really just hoping the heat was because the fan on my H50 was a pos, and that with my push pull set up i will be seeing some great temps, because i swear if i ever see 85c on load again i will slap this thing with a giant pickle.


----------



## Garanthor

SolarisPrime. Most of what youâ€™ve said is true but there is one fundamental flaw that goes against the law of thermodynamics. (Caution nerdy stuff ahead!) To put it simply, the greater the temperature between two states the faster the temperature will flow between them (for all you thermodynamics guysâ€¦.I know â€¦.Iâ€™m trying to keep it simple here). Think of how fast a flower freezes when placed in liquid nitrogen. The correlation for temperature difference is a direct one (i.e. picture a straight line graph). The correlation between air flow at a set temperature and cooling of the radiator is not as simple. The correlation is a curved graph which means you eventually get to a point of diminishing returns (thatâ€™s also why ambient temperature has such a direct effect on radiator cooling). The reason for this is because fast moving air touches the fins for less time before being pushed away by more air. This means it doesnâ€™t get to sit on the fins as long and get progressively hotter and therefore less efficient at transferring the heat like slow moving air would. The reason for the curve in the graph is because the radiator fins are also cooling down and the temperature difference lessens. Thatâ€™s also why a higher liquid flow through the radiator is better because it keeps the fins hotter. Of course then you get into the heat of the CPU, cold plate ability etc etc. So letâ€™s not go there. Suffice it to say that if I were to place dual 250 CFM delta fans in push pull on my H50 I would see much lower temps than say dual 50 to 60 CFM Scythe S-Flex fans but the noise will certainly not be worth it IMHO. But you might say â€œGaranthor what about if you pushed through say 5000 cfm though that radiator?â€ Well even if the fins could take it, now youâ€™re getting into issues of air compression around the fins (which increases air temperatureâ€¦in fact it could increase it to the point that youâ€™d be actually heating the radiator rather than cooling itâ€¦extreme I know) and low and high pressure areas or possible micro vacuums (think of how a planes wing works) would form which of course would not help to efficiently transfer heat. So is a 3,000 rpm Ultra Kaze fan worth it?...that depends. It will certainly cool better (higher CFM and higher static pressure) but will also make more noise and draw more amps. Other options could be increasing flow rate, increasing cooling surface area (i.e. think H 70), improving contact area between CPU and cooling plate and so on. Hope that helps a bit.


----------



## Turgin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *joavery* 
So I have an ATCS 840 in the mail.

I have the option to:

A: Use the H70 as rear upper intake (Sounds like a terrible idea though that's installation directions)
B: Use the H70 as rear Push/Pull Exhaust
C: Remove the front upper 230mm Exhaust and use the H70 as Push/Pull Intake
D: Remove the front upper 230mm Exhaust and use the H70 as Push/Pull Exhaust
E: Turn the front upper 230mm exhaust into intake and use the H70 as Push/Pull upper rear Exhaust.

I'm looking for what will generate the best health for my total system.

Intaking air from the rear sounds like a bad, bad idea, even in an ATCS 840.

I'm rather fond of idea E myself.

PS: I'm replacing stock fans with two Scythe Gentle Typhoons.

I have an ATCS 840 and an H50. I've installed mine as option D except I just have a single San Ace H101 as a push fan with a 38mm shroud.

I chose this because I intend to install an intake fan in the drive bays to deliver fresh air directly to the intake fan. I may add another H101 w/ shroud as a pull fan.


----------



## SolarisPrime

Great reply's guys.

See I told you it was complicated, I might kick start a talk on string theory next week. I know nothing about that either. lol

I've now settled my system with one fan pushing the air out of the case over the rad of the H50. and instead of the push pull I moved the other high speed fan to the front as a better intake. I have other case fans too.

For my system the push pull wasn't making any difference to my temps maybe a fluctuating half a degree. I get the same temp with one on full than i did with two. 
The biggest temp drop was when i moved a fan inside the case to be pointing along the graphics card. This took down the temp of my cpu a good few degrees. This was only at idle too. I think at the moment I have it set at the best I am going to get it in my ambient room temp. I did use an ultra kraze but they are just too noisy way over the top really. especially when they are not either pushing against something like the rad. The pull fan seemed to be really not have any resistance at all. Also these on full makes no difference to say at 60 or 70% that is in my setup. I'm sure tweaking set up might make some little difference but i am happy now with what i think the best set up for me is. So i moved it to be another intake for my case which reduced the noise and increased airflow in the case. I have an idle ranging from 26 to 32 deg c at the moment depending on the temp in the room. I'm in the north of England too. It usually sits around 28 deg c, this is only in the bios at the moment.

I have the i7890x in my system which i will get around to having a go at a full water loop but at the minute i don't need one.


----------



## goodwidp

Just ordered my H70 from Newegg along with 2 Gentle Typhoon Ap-15s. Cant wait for them to get here and install them on my sig rig. After reading some posts in this thread, I have been considering the idea of using a shroud for the push fan. 1- Will it really make a substantial difference in temps or will it just be a 1 or maybe 2 degree difference? 2- If I were to use a shroud, what would be the best method of obtaining one? Should i really just use an old fan and remove the blades or are there places that I could purchase a shroud for a 120mm case fan? Thanks.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey Solaris, you should probably fill out your system specs in User CP that way when you say things like "I moved my other High Speed to the front of my Case..." we know right where that is or can look it up.









Welcome to the H50/H70 club and OCN.









~Ceadder


----------



## rpilgrim

I am here! I have gone with a modified and lapped H50. I moved the radiator outside with a watersink to hold more water. .....and I only ruined one vid card MSI 5770 Hawk. (I was learning with this OK?)


----------



## shapiror06

This may be a dumb question, but if noise is of_* no *_concern, do higher CFM fans with an H50 or H70 always equate to better cooling?

I would assume there is a tolerance where the performance tops out with a certain rated CFM.


----------



## Elite-

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shapiror06*


This may be a dumb question, but if noise is of_* no *_concern, do higher CFM fans with an H50 or H70 always equate to better cooling?

I would assume there is a tolerance where the performance tops out with a certain rated CFM.


No higher CFM will not always result in better cooling. Why? because there needs to be a certain amount of air that gets pushed through the rad at one time, if there is too much it just wont have much more of an effect. Go with some fans that have high static pressure.


----------



## Shadow9025

Ooooooo I wonder what that could be?


















I am trying to plan out how I want to mount this new toy in my A1200, hop on over to my build log and help me brainstorm a bit if you guys feel up to it. I am looking forward to trying to do some OCing on this thing. I also have two GT AP-15's and 1g of Shin Etsu x23 on the way which should be showing up tomorrow. Im really looking forward to putting this together it seems like an awesome cooler.

http://www.overclock.net/intel-build...l#post10413085


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Elite-*


No higher CFM will not always result in better cooling. Why? because there needs to be a certain amount of air that gets pushed through the rad at one time, if there is too much it just wont have much more of an effect. Go with some fans that have high static pressure.


At what point does too much static pressure become useless? Or is that impossible? I was thinking 2 Delta AFB1212GHE fans rated at 27.48mmH2O each.

Also, should the total exhaust static pressure equal the total input static pressure? Or should it be more? Or less?


----------



## Elite-

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shapiror06*


At what point does too much static pressure become useless? Or is that impossible? I was thinking 2 Delta AFB1212GHE fans rated at 27.48mmH2O each.

Also, should the total exhaust static pressure equal the total input static pressure? Or should it be more? Or less?


Don't get deltas... get some 1850rpm Gentle typhoons.


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Elite-*


Don't get deltas... get some 1850rpm Gentle typhoons.


ive seen this recommendation a few times, any particular reason?


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shapiror06*


ive seen this recommendation a few times, any particular reason?


r you for real,... if its recommended many times... it means its good.... hmm imagine allot people saying the same thing.. do you think they would recommend something that sucks


----------



## Ceadderman

I dunno, maybe.









j/k don't beat me up kay?









I think that he's looking for something a bit more definitive however.

Like maybe cause they're quieter than Deltas'?









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


r you for real,... if its recommended many times... it means its good.... hmm imagine allot people saying the same thing.. do you think they would recommend something that sucks


----------



## Magus2727

Delta's are good fans, they just have two downfalls... they usually are fairly loud and cost more.

personally, if I am going to buy a $200+ CPU, $70 cooler, $200+ GPU, ect why would I be such a cheap skate on a $20 fan. if noise is no problem and you want a good fan get a delta. if you want something that wont be like a 747 taking off (exaggeration, unless its the 250 CFM ones) and cost 5 bucks less get the typhoon's...


----------



## Ceadderman

Uhhhhh maybe cause my $4 Yate Loon fans perform just as well?









Not to take anything away from the Deltas' but my YLs'

2000+ RPM
88CFM rated
Less than 40 dB rated
< 6 watts of required power

And two of them in Push/Pull keep my CPU at a chilly 29-34c average @ idle.

The only reason they meet the definition of "cheap" is the price. They perform as anything but.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Delta's are good fans, they just have two downfalls... they usually are fairly loud and cost more.

personally, if I am going to buy a $200+ CPU, $70 cooler, $200+ GPU, ect why would I be such a cheap skate on a $20 fan. if noise is no problem and you want a good fan get a delta. if you want something that wont be like a 747 taking off (exaggeration, unless its the 250 CFM ones) and cost 5 bucks less get the typhoon's...


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


r you for real,... if its recommended many times... it means its good.... hmm imagine allot people saying the same thing.. do you think they would recommend something that sucks


This is the kind of thinking that has propelled many terrible bands into stardom









Now on topic... Yes Gentle Typhoons are very good. I personally don't like spending that much, so I buy S-Flex's and hook them to a fan controller, but to each his own


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I dunno, maybe.









j/k don't beat me up kay?









I think that he's looking for something a bit more definitive however.

Like maybe cause they're quieter than Deltas'?









~Ceadder










This is exactly what i mean! Elite- had a good reason for recommending a fan with a higher static pressure. After doing a bit of reading, static pressure means a lot more than CFM, higher CFM is not always better.

Just because a lot of people smoke cigarettes, does that make it right??

So, I said earlier that noise levels were not a concern of mine, so whats the legitimate reason for gentle typhoons over the Delta fans?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shapiror06*


This is exactly what i mean! Elite- had a good reason for recommending a fan with a higher static pressure. After doing a bit of reading, static pressure means a lot more than CFM, higher CFM is not always better.

Just because a lot of people smoke cigarettes, does that make it right??

So, I said earlier that noise levels were not a concern of mine, so whats the legitimate reason for gentle typhoons over the Delta fans?


Longevity/life of the fans Delta fans just don't last that long or at least the ones I have had never lasted that long before one thing or another went wrong with them. The only other reason is for sound really GT's are very quiet if you compare them to Delta's if sound isn't an issue then Delta's work fine but I would never buy their fans again myself. If I wanted a high speed/high cfm fan I would go with Yate Loons or something cheaper cause then the price makes up for the longevity.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Longevity/life of the fans Delta fans just don't last that long or at least the ones I have had never lasted that long before one thing or another went wrong with them. The only other reason is for sound really GT's are very quiet if you compare them to Delta's if sound isn't an issue then Delta's work fine but I would never buy their fans again myself. If I wanted a high speed/high cfm fan I would go with Yate Loons or something cheaper cause then the price makes up for the longevity.


Who here actually has Fans fail frequently? I mean, unless you're not cleaning your cases regularly AND your fans/rads/etc, then there should be no reason for fans to fail aside from every few years. The MTBF is astronomical, so there's got to be something going on, or exaggeration.


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


Who here actually has Fans fail frequently? I mean, unless you're not cleaning your cases regularly AND your fans/rads/etc, then there should be no reason for fans to fail aside from every few years. The MTBF is astronomical, so there's got to be something going on, or exaggeration.


I have filters on all my inlet fans, so that's not an issue. I don't care about sound or longevity, I take care of my case/fans; my only concern is maximum cooling efficiency with this H70 cooler.


----------



## arbalest

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shapiror06*


I have filters on all my inlet fans, so that's not an issue. I don't care about sound or longevity, I take care of my case/fans; my only concern is maximum cooling efficiency with this H70 cooler.


38mm Deltas


----------



## Enphenate

So i have been playing around with the H70 more, i switched it up a little. The h70 is now mounted to the top exhaust fan, and temps have only been 1-2c higher, while keeping my case a lot cooler than when it was intake.

I got the Gentle Typhoons AP15s hooked up to it and i will be adding a shroud to the push or both fans. I cant fit the h70 below the Noctua fan as it conflicts with the ram due to its size.

















I have a coolermaster 4 in 3 bay device coming in the mail and i will be most likely doing this set up.

Note these arent my pictures but once i have the parts i will set it up pretty much as shown.


----------



## anti_808

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


This is the kind of thinking that has propelled many terrible bands into stardom









Now on topic... Yes Gentle Typhoons are very good. I personally don't like spending that much, so I buy S-Flex's and hook them to a fan controller, but to each his own










How are your temps? I just ordered an H70, and if the stock fans are too loud I'm looking at Scythe Slipstreams 1600RPM (88cfm/33dba) or Kaze Maru 2 1200RPM (140mm fan in 120mm housing, 65cfm/23.2dba)

Any input on either fans would be appreciated


----------



## Ceadderman

I think that depends on how a fan is manufactured. Is it sleeved? Does it have a standard bearing? How is it mounted? See I like my Yate Loons but they are sleeved. Sleeved fans have a reputation for failing when they are mounted horizontally. I don't know how true or not this is but I have 3 of my Yates mounted Horizontally.

If they go they go. @ $4 each I'm not gonna bawl to momma. I'll just get on the horn to Performance-PCs' and order some more.

I have dust filters and keep my system clean. So if they fail, I at least understand WHY they failed. There are more reasons a fan can fail than you may think.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *arbalest*


Who here actually has Fans fail frequently? I mean, unless you're not cleaning your cases regularly AND your fans/rads/etc, then there should be no reason for fans to fail aside from every few years. The MTBF is astronomical, so there's got to be something going on, or exaggeration.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
Who here actually has Fans fail frequently? I mean, unless you're not cleaning your cases regularly AND your fans/rads/etc, then there should be no reason for fans to fail aside from every few years. The MTBF is astronomical, so there's got to be something going on, or exaggeration.

I been working on computers since there first where PC's everything ran on tape drives and then later 5 1/4 floppies. Seen many fans fail for many reasons sorry my experience with Delta fans I would not spend the money.


----------



## slimbrady

so i've been doing a lot more research on fans after seeing so many people recommending this or that fan and happened to come across a wonderful fan round up done in great detail. hopefully some of you guys find this as informative as i have:http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=223391


----------



## Zavia

Morning, Any one have a suggestion for best way to mount the H50. mine is currently tubes at the btm of the pump and btm of the rad with the rad mounted on the back of case about level with the pump. I could put it in top of the case if i wanted to, just wondered whats better for the pump to get that water flowing.

waiting on my slipstreams today, and going to reapply my tmi. must remember to get some rubbing alcohol...


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Enphenate* 
So i have been playing around with the H70 more, i switched it up a little. The h70 is now mounted to the top exhaust fan, and temps have only been 1-2c higher, while keeping my case a lot cooler than when it was intake.

I got the Gentle Typhoons AP15s hooked up to it and i will be adding a shroud to the push or both fans. I cant fit the h70 below the Noctua fan as it conflicts with the ram due to its size.

















I have a coolermaster 4 in 3 bay device coming in the mail and i will be most likely doing this set up.

Note these arent my pictures but once i have the parts i will set it up pretty much as shown.

















Yay! Another CM 4-in-3 modder!








If you've got any questions on setting it up I've got the same setup, so I might be able to help you.


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
so i've been doing a lot more research on fans after seeing so many people recommending this or that fan and happened to come across a wonderful fan round up done in great detail. hopefully some of you guys find this as informative as i have:http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=223391

I read that yesterday! Great writeup, that's why I was initially asking about the Delta fans.


----------



## tpavur




----------



## Shadow9025

Wow tpavur thats pretty impressive.


----------



## tpavur

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shadow9025* 
Wow tpavur thats pretty impressive.


Thanks!, I'm geting ready to get the loop for my GPU's pretty soon... also the H70 is on it's way as soon as amazon







updates the "out of stock" message lol.


----------



## Shadow9025

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tpavur* 
Thanks!, I'm geting ready to get the loop for my GPU's pretty soon... also the H70 is on it's way as soon as amazon







updates the "out of stock" message lol.

Check Newegg mine showed up on my door step yesterday from them.

Other question, has anyone found a good way to mount the H70 on an Antec1200? I am considering trying to mount it to the front of the case or cutting the grill for the rear two fans and mounting one fan on the outside of the case.


----------



## tpavur

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shadow9025* 
Check Newegg mine showed up on my door step yesterday from them.

Other question, has anyone found a good way to mount the H70 on an Antec1200? I am considering trying to mount it to the front of the case or cutting the grill for the rear two fans and mounting one fan on the outside of the case.

I would but I have a very frugal wife (I have been asking to build something like this for 2 years) that saves 90% of the money we make (dual military) and I got it on amazon for 90$ with free shipping, so unless I can find it for that price or cheaper; I will have to wait lol.


----------



## Shadow9025

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tpavur* 
I would but I have a very frugal wife (I have been asking to build something like this for 2 years) that saves 90% of the money we make (dual military) and I got it on amazon for 90$ with free shipping, so unless I can find it for that price or cheaper; I will have to wait lol.

Ah I gotcha makes sense, this way others can figure out how to get them to work well before yours shows up. This way bad things are less likely to happen


----------



## tpavur

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shadow9025* 
Ah I gotcha makes sense, this way others can figure out how to get them to work well before yours shows up. This way bad things are less likely to happen









true lol


----------



## Chuckclc

Quote:

I have filters on all my inlet fans, so that's not an issue. I don't care about sound or longevity, I take care of my case/fans; my only concern is maximum cooling efficiency with this H70 cooler.
This sight is in love with the gentle typhoons. Just the name alone makes me not want to use them. I dont want something gentle cooling my cpu. I have 1 ultra kaze, I think its 133cfm with static pressure, and was 9.99 free shipping at newegg, still is i believe. If I turn it down to 50%, probably can go lower just havent tried, I get the same performance as 100% when Im just web browsing or running off the windows desktop, when I wanna crank them up and bench mark or something, yes they are loud, but they perform. Have a delta on the way paid 10 bucks for that and plan on using them with an H70 soon.


----------



## The_Rocker

Hey guys,

Im thinking of a H70 for my sig rig, do you think I'll see improvements over my current cooling set up. (see sig)


----------



## Shadow9025

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The_Rocker* 
Hey guys,

Im thinking of a H70 for my sig rig, do you think I'll see improvements over my current cooling set up. (see sig)

Nice build. I kinda doubt you would see much improvement in cooling, but yes if you consider not having a big heavy heatsink on your board an improvement. It might be good to wait a bit and see what people are getting for temps around here with one before you put down the money. I will be installing one in my A1200 on my i7 930 tonight so Ill be sure to share what I get for temps when I start OCing.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *anti_808* 
How are your temps? I just ordered an H70, and if the stock fans are too loud I'm looking at Scythe Slipstreams 1600RPM (88cfm/33dba) or Kaze Maru 2 1200RPM (140mm fan in 120mm housing, 65cfm/23.2dba)

Any input on either fans would be appreciated

I doubt either of those fans will perform very well on their own or P/P due to lack of static pressure. OTH the KM2 worked pretty well as a push fan with a GT AP-15 pulling. It gave up a little in performance but gained in being quiet. Best noise/performance is 2x GTs with shrouds.


----------



## Zavia

Well now that i have smacked myself for ordering the slipstreams which blow for static pressure i have ordered some Rexus NMB-MAT (Panaflo) 120mm Case Fan's for my H50, oh well the slipstreams should give me good exhaust airflow lol.


----------



## dockiks

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
I doubt either of those fans will perform very well on their own or P/P due to lack of static pressure. OTH the KM2 worked pretty well as a push fan with a GT AP-15 pulling. It gave up a little in performance but gained in being quiet. Best noise/performance is 2x GTs with shrouds.

I know the Kaze Maru 2 (aka Slipstream 140) fans have 120 mm screw spacings and can fit on the radiator. But will the overall size of the fan be an issue when used with the H50/H70? The fan blades will overhang the radiator edges. Will the "closed tunnel effect" of 120mm fans be lost and result in loss of radiator cooling efficiency if I use these fans? I ordered 2 of these but am planning on using them as front intakes for my Thermaltake Element T. Am planning on using GT AP-15's P/P for the H70 but I'm open to other options such as the KM2 if their being 140mm will offer any improvement over the GT-15's


----------



## Zavia

i would think having any open lopsidedness to the setup would decrease your pressure and lose a lot of flow through your radiator, since open air offers no resistance and the radiator does.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tpavur*


I would but I have a very frugal wife (I have been asking to build something like this for 2 years) that saves 90% of the money we make (dual military) and I got it on amazon for 90$ with free shipping, so unless I can find it for that price or cheaper; I will have to wait lol.


Oh puleeease.....give me a break.







I just read the specs on your system and went back to see your pics. What an awesome system.







Very well though out I might add. If I was to build another system today it would be almost like yours (I'd put 2 X 5870 in Crossfire though instead of those GTX 480s and of course add the H70 with 2 X UK 2000 rpm fans)


----------



## Zavia

Any one know a good generic object to make a DIY shroud, that's not an old fan? ... Hmm maybe i'll just make one out of a 2x4 (should be about 40mm) since i have a hole cutter and a drill, just nab me some zip ties and wait for my new panaflos.


----------



## tpavur

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Oh puleeease.....give me a break.







I just read the specs on your system and went back to see your pics. What an awesome system.







Very well though out I might add. If I was to build another system today it would be almost like yours (I'd put 2 X 5870 in Crossfire though instead of those GTX 480s and of course add the H70 with 2 X UK 2000 rpm fans)










I'm a fan of the 5000 series it's just that ATI has always had driver issues for me, plus Nvidia scales better imo. Also the H70 should be here soon! if amazon would get thier stuff together. are the UK alot better than what comes with the H70 stock?


----------



## anti_808

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


I doubt either of those fans will perform very well on their own or P/P due to lack of static pressure. OTH the KM2 worked pretty well as a push fan with a GT AP-15 pulling. It gave up a little in performance but gained in being quiet. Best noise/performance is 2x GTs with shrouds.


Thanks for the response! Don't think I have enough space in my little 902 for (essentially) 4 fans and a rad. Has anyone mounted the pull fan/shroud on the outside, then the radiator and pull fan/shroud on the inside of the case before?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tpavur*


I'm a fan of the 5000 series it's just that ATI has always had driver issues for me, plus Nvidia scales better imo. Also the H70 should be here soon! if amazon would get thier stuff together. are the UK alot better than what comes with the H70 stock?


I actually cancelled my order with Amazon and got one from Newegg, even though I had to pay 15 extra for shipping, I didn't want to run the stock cooler, and switch it when my H70 arrived (I'm lazy, and my mobo tray doesn't have the hole cut out to access the backplate)


----------



## Shadow9025

Just about to get out of work and then I can finally get to work on my H70. I think im going to cut out the back mesh on my Antec 1200 and have Fan-Case-Rad-Fan with the upper rear fan mounted on the outside as well. Then I can get to OCing the 930. Thoughts on this?


----------



## Sukach

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shadow9025*


Just about to get out of work and then I can finally get to work on my H70. I think im going to cut out the back mesh on my Antec 1200 and have Fan-Case-Rad-Fan with the upper rear fan mounted on the outside as well. Then I can get to OCing the 930. Thoughts on this?


Do it. I'm curious.


----------



## Ceadderman

That guy must work for Delta.









You know what would be helpful? If he kept the same designators for each fan. Also if he would have shown them a bit more separated. And less fans. I mean how many Yate Loon Low Speeds did he need to test? By my count there were 3 Yates. 2 of them Low Speed variety. Which contributed to that spaghetti pile.







lol

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimbrady*


so i've been doing a lot more research on fans after seeing so many people recommending this or that fan and happened to come across a wonderful fan round up done in great detail. hopefully some of you guys find this as informative as i have:http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=223391


----------



## Ceadderman

Putting a shroud on the Pull side is pointless imho. The reason being the dead spot on the Pull fan is opposite the Radiator. The fan points away from the Pusher.

So if you set it up with a shroud on the Push side it should help concentrate airflow over the vanes of the Radiator where it's needed. The extra shroud really doesn't help one way or the other. It doesn't lessen the sound. It can't concentrate airflow and it can't make up for the dead spot.

Save the room for more important things.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *anti_808*


Thanks for the response! Don't think I have enough space in my little 902 for (essentially) 4 fans and a rad. Has anyone mounted the pull fan/shroud on the outside, then the radiator and pull fan/shroud on the inside of the case before?

I actually cancelled my order with Amazon and got one from Newegg, even though I had to pay 15 extra for shipping, I didn't want to run the stock cooler, and switch it when my H70 arrived (I'm lazy, and my mobo tray doesn't have the hole cut out to access the backplate)


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tpavur*


I'm a fan of the 5000 series it's just that ATI has always had driver issues for me, plus Nvidia scales better imo. Also the H70 should be here soon! if amazon would get thier stuff together. are the UK alot better than what comes with the H70 stock?


For a blance between performance, sound and value you really can't go wrong with the Ultra Kaze 2000 rpm fans. They are about the same noise as the R4s which is fine for me. I have the fans about 2.5 feet from my ears and they're just noticable in the background. In fact, the clicking noise from my keyboard as I type this is much louder. Go online and check out some reviews and noise samples. Plus, no one here can deny that they clearly outperform any 25 mm fan (GT and stock H70 fans included).


----------



## Shadow9025

Well guys the 1200 is proving to be a huge pain when it comes to installing the h70. My idea of cutting the mesh and mounting it that way wont work without making some shrouds and moving some stuff around. I think I may try to get it all hooked up the standard way and see what my temps look like.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey guys, July MotM is up. If you like good Mods, this is the time to vote. There are some very good setups, and some without scratches in them. So please take a look at all of them and vote your hearts. I have a couple favorites, and I'm sure you will too. Vote the work.









~Ceadder


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Hey guys, July MotM is up. If you like good Mods, this is the time to vote. There are some very good setups, and some without scratches in them. So please take a look at all of them and vote your hearts. I have a couple favorites, and I'm sure you will too. Vote the work.









~Ceadder










Agreed! ^^

Here's the link for you








http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...l-up-come.html


----------



## mbemount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shadow9025*


Well guys the 1200 is proving to be a huge pain when it comes to installing the h70. My idea of cutting the mesh and mounting it that way wont work without making some shrouds and moving some stuff around. I think I may try to get it all hooked up the standard way and see what my temps look like.


I didn't have any trouble installing my H70 today in my 1200 (normal way in rear of case)... However I probably should have waited until my gentle typhoons come in Tuesday because I'll be pulling the radiator back out to put in shroud on it (with the new fans). I'm pretty happy overall though with it at stock. Running around 7-8 degrees cooler than my Thermalright Ultra-120 eXtreme at full load.


----------



## Shadow9025

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbemount*


I didn't have any trouble installing my H70 today in my 1200 (normal way in rear of case)... However I probably should have waited until my gentle typhoons come in Tuesday because I'll be pulling the radiator back out to put in shroud on it (with the new fans). I'm pretty happy overall though with it at stock. Running around 7-8 degrees cooler than my Thermalright Ultra-120 eXtreme at full load.


Thanks good to know, I was just hoping to find a way that it wasnt so cramped. I managed to wait until today my GT's showed up this afternoon but my H70 was here last night. Having to go to work this morning helped









EDIT: I have the box running. Prime off the bat hit 65 62 64 59 at 3 GHz without any time to cure. That seems pretty good to me since overclock3D was at 74C at 3.6GHz. I have HT on as well so thats nice. Im going to let the machine settle overnight and think about doing some overclocking tomorrow. I also have some pics of it set up in the 1200 so I will have to post those tomorrow too.


----------



## shaddix

H50 is awesome. that is all


----------



## mbemount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shadow9025*


Thanks good to know, I was just hoping to find a way that it wasnt so cramped. I managed to wait until today my GT's showed up this afternoon but my H70 was here last night. Having to go to work this morning helped









EDIT: I have the box running. My temps arnt that great, Im guessing its due to the cure time of the Shin Etsu. I have HT on running prime and I am getting 65 64 62 58 according to real temp with everything at stock. Ill keep prime going for a while and then just let the machine run normally over night and see where Im at tomorrow. I have air running from front to back because of my sli and the amount of room the case has behind it when its under my desk instead of on the work bench.


Mine was 1.3v @ 4.0ghz (w/ HT) and I was getting around 69-73 on all my cores. I think one peaked at 75. That's with the original paste on it.

One thing I didn't even pay attention to when ordering my shroud was that it came with screws that didn't fit the H70/H50 radiator so I just had to order some (hardware store didn't have any long enough). I hate how shipping costs more then the darn screws.


----------



## Shadow9025

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbemount*


Mine was 1.3v @ 4.0ghz (w/ HT) and I was getting around 69-73 on all my cores. I think one peaked at 75. That's with the original paste on it.

One thing I didn't even pay attention to when ordering my shroud was that it came with screws that didn't fit the H70/H50 radiator so I just had to order some (hardware store didn't have any long enough). I hate how shipping costs more then the darn screws.


Hmmmm so should I blame this on the cure time of the paste or start worrying?


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shadow9025*


Hmmmm so should I blame this on the cure time of the paste or start worrying?


Shin-Etsu does not have any curring time - its instant

my guess the issue is probably the H70 was not mounted properly... I would re-seat it
or maybe you were expecting too much of cooling performance.


----------



## Shadow9025

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


Shin-Etsu does not have any curring time - its instant


Could of sworn it did. Well I guess I should try re-seating the pump.....oh boy.


----------



## mbemount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shadow9025* 
Could of sworn it did. Well I guess I should try re-seating the pump.....oh boy.

That would be my best guess unless you have higher ambients than myself (24-26 today).


----------



## Maximous

Hey H50 owners. Quick question(since Im not going to read through all of the posts here








): Have any body heard a strange noise from their H50? Like rubbing a pastic bag between their fingers or like air going through the pump? One in the amd cpu section is having this noice now and then. The sound is only there for about 1-2 sec @ the time.

ANYBODY???


----------



## digitally

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Maximous* 
Hey H50 owners. Quick question(since Im not going to read through all of the posts here







): Have any body heard a strange noise from their H50? Like rubbing a pastic bag between their fingers or like air going through the pump? One in the amd cpu section is having this noice now and then. The sound is only there for about 1-2 sec @ the time.

ANYBODY???

more like water running through the pipes? (i tried rubbing plastic bag with my finger, sounds like it, only plastic bags are louder







)

if so, no worries. this happens everytime i mount different position of the pump or rad.

if not so, ..... idk .....

also i have 2 loud fans for P/P... i couldn't hear them much.


----------



## brandontaz2k2

I have a question before I buy this product, I have a NZXT Tempest EVO case, with 2 fans in the front pulling in air, I have modded my 1 side fan and added a second fan on top of the side fan (2 fans pulling in air on top of the video card), 2 exhaust fans on the top of the case, and 1 fan in the back acting as an exhaust. My question is would it be better to have the H50 fan pull in air at the back and have it go out the exhaust at the top of the case, or have it blow the hot air out the back of the case? Thank you for your time.


----------



## digitally

Quote:


Originally Posted by *brandontaz2k2* 
I have a question before I buy this product, I have a NZXT Tempest EVO case, with 2 fans in the front pulling in air, I have modded my 1 side fan and added a second fan on top of the side fan (2 fans pulling in air on top of the video card), 2 exhaust fans on the top of the case, and 1 fan in the back acting as an exhaust. My question is would it be better to have the H50 fan pull in air at the back and have it go out the exhaust at the top of the case, or have it blow the hot air out the back of the case? Thank you for your time.

u can read the first post, first quote.
if your case is quite cold, u can mount it to the back as exhaust


----------



## lieschen-mueller

yes i have this strange sound issue too with my first H50. To me it sounds like bubbles or a bearing damage.

After waiting one week to see if its a temporary effect after montage i bring it back to the vendor and after a quick check he changes it immediately. The new one is perfect.


----------



## Zavia

well swapping my pos from vendor screw up fan with a slipstream 12sh made a 20 degree top end difference under load , still near 38 for idel though, so when my panaflos get here i will be very happy with my H50.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Maximous*


Hey H50 owners. Quick question(since Im not going to read through all of the posts here







): Have any body heard a strange noise from their H50? Like rubbing a pastic bag between their fingers or like air going through the pump? One in the amd cpu section is having this noice now and then. The sound is only there for about 1-2 sec @ the time.

ANYBODY???


This usually happens when the H50 is first installed, turned on or moved to a new position, because of the small amount of air in the loop making it's way to the top as the pump starts moving water through the lines. This will typically lasts for only about a minute or so then goes away. This is normal, no worries.


----------



## Shadow9025

I moved the rig upstairs where I have a better ambient temp. At stock with HT on I am getting 60 57 59 54 with prime95 small FFT's. Is this somewhat close to whats expected or am I still pretty far off? If this still isnt great Ill go ahead and try to reseat it.


----------



## Thosesneakyfrench

Push/Pull with a shroud, 4Ghz with 1.36v and 70C load with Linx. Love this thing to death, and 4.5 is looking like a possibility for the winter.


----------



## markshim

omg how do you keep your pc so clean lol.

the question that was asked about the H50 making nosies was asked for me. the noise started when i was doing stress tests with prime95, and when my pc cut out it would make that noise. but i started to notice it after aswell. it would only last about 1-3 secs, i havent` heard it for awhile now tho. it just sounds like air bubbles or water moving through the pipes. might of started coz my pc was suddenly being shut down not sure and the pump was being shut down fast or something not sure? just so long as its ok


----------



## Ceadderman

If it doesn't go away after a minute or so try rapping on the flow line(left tube when Corsair logo is right side up)with an unsharpened pencil a few times. It should break up any air trapped in the pump.









Problem occurred when you moved your system upstairs I think.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bodycount

^Whoa ceadder







I think that was your 1st post without using a quote backwards or not





















J/K


----------



## Dunkler

Looking to do a push/pull setup in the front of a NZXT Vulcan. I know the H70 is much thicker RAD wise so I was wondering if I could opt for something like these fans for P/P http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-139-_-Product

Or should I just stick with the cheaper H50 which I know will fit in the front intake panel of the Vulcan and use these fans http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-063-_-Product

Thanks for the input


----------



## Shadow9025

I through together a quick stable 4GHz setup so I could check out the temps. This is not optimized but its been happy on LinX and Prime so I figured id post some results.

HT is on and Turbo is not for all of these tests.

LinX









Prime


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shadow9025*


I through together a quick stable 4GHz setup so I could check out the temps. This is not optimized but its been happy on LinX and Prime so I figured id post some results.

HT is on and Turbo is not for all of these tests.


Nice test and post







but unfortunately your tests don't mean much with those LinX settings or P95 for that matter. You must test at full/all memory to be able to deem it stable. In your case a problem size of 25000

Do it again with LinX and click (ALL)







I was suprised with the temps


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Nice test and post







but unfortunately your tests don't mean much with those LinX settings or P95 for that matter. You must test at full/all memory to be able to deem it stable. In your case a problem size of 25000

Do it again with LinX and click (ALL)







I was suprised with the temps


heheh i was gonna say the exact same thing.... (eitherway LinX automatically when pressing ALL button gives you the proper "problem size" according to your memory)
Also another note re-run Prime95 on Prime SHOWING more than 2 or 3 hours done - screenshot


----------



## Shadow9025

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Nice test and post







but unfortunately your tests don't mean much with those LinX settings or P95 for that matter. You must test at full/all memory to be able to deem it stable. In your case a problem size of 25000

Do it again with LinX and click (ALL)







I was suprised with the temps



Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


heheh i was gonna say the exact same thing.... (eitherway LinX automatically when pressing ALL button gives you the proper "problem size" according to your memory)
Also another note re-run Prime95 on Prime SHOWING more than 2 or 3 hours done - screenshot


Haha yeah Im new to LinX ill do that. That was Prime at 45 mins. I will be running prime overnight and ill post a shot of that tomorrow.

I was really worried when I first hooked this up at stock but I have to say these temps under load at 4GHz seems pretty awesome to me







From what I have seen from others posts I seem to be a little under the h50's in similar configs.

EDIT: highest I hit on Vantage was 65C. Real Temp shows Max at 65 62 64 59. I am a happy person this afternoon


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dunkler*


Looking to do a push/pull setup in the front of a NZXT Vulcan. I know the H70 is much thicker RAD wise so I was wondering if I could opt for something like these fans for P/P http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-139-_-Product

Or should I just stick with the cheaper H50 which I know will fit in the front intake panel of the Vulcan and use these fans http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-063-_-Product

Thanks for the input


The tubing on the h70 is shorter. It's a tough stretch as it is with the h50, not sure if they'll fit (depending on CPU socket location) unless you use a shroud or two... I would recommend either Scythe Gentle-Typhoon AP14 or AP15 for either configuration. (I've used my h50 in the Vulcan)

The ONLY place you can mount the h50 without excessive modification is the front intake bay. This is how I had my setup before for testing, no longer using it


----------



## Ceadderman

But I didn't quote anybody since it was right on his heels for the most part.


















~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
^Whoa ceadder







I think that was your 1st post without using a quote backwards or not





















J/K


----------



## lightsout

Just got mine installed!


----------



## Kyushu

Hi guys, need some help with my setup.

The H70 doesn't fit in the rear slot fan with the evga x58 e758 motherboard which I really want to get. The options are to run the h70 as an intake in the top front 5.25 drive bays. The problem there is that I'm afraid that will heat up the already notoriously hot x58 motherboard and the front 5.25 drive bay setup might be a pain to setup there, the h70 push/pull setup is friggin thick!

The next option would be to get the x58 ftw3 and then I could run the h70 in the rear slot if I use one of those thin scythe fans, but I don't know if that will be efficient because that rad is so thick I heard it needs fans with good static pressure. I don't want to get the x58 ftw3 just to realize that I have to run it in the front 5.25 drive bays again because the thin scythe fan isn't good enough.. But if I'm wrong about that, let me know.

The next option is to use the h50, but I read that the h50 can only perform as well as the h70 if you run it with a push/pull + shroud setup. Which I assume would make it just as thick as the h70..

I'll be using a CM Sniper case, i7 930 and would like to overclock to 4.0ghz

The ideal setup I would like based on what I've read is:
Top 200mm fan - exhaust
Front Bottom 200mm fan - intake
Side Panel 200mm fan - exhaust (I'm more than willing to play around with this one. Maybe intake or 2 120mm instead as intake or maybe no side fans)
Rear 120mm fan - corsair h70 push/pull exhaust with 2 scythe gentletyphoons ap15s
Bottom inside 120mm fan - intake from bottom pushing air up
Top Front Inside Extra 120mm fan -intake in the front the case in the 5.25 drive bays attached with zip ties or velcro or w/e

Any help, suggestions, options would be really appreciated.


----------



## markshim

i have a question guys if you don`t ming answering.
at the moment i have a H50 push/pull, i see now that the H70 is out. my questiion are,
i don`t think i can fit the H70 in my pc because it to wide to have push/pull and it will come out as far as my cpu. so it hit the place where the pump is to go?
is the H70 much better than the H50?
does it cool as much with one fan?

thank you for reading


----------



## d33r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *markshim* 
i have a question guys if you don`t ming answering.
at the moment i have a H50 push/pull, i see now that the H70 is out. my questiion are,
i don`t think i can fit the H70 in my pc because it to wide to have push/pull and it will come out as far as my cpu. so it hit the place where the pump is to go?
is the H70 much better than the H50?
does it cool as much with one fan?

thank you for reading









i have been reading much debate on this subject...i hear that the h70 is only better than the h50 by a few degrees.... if i were you i would just buy 2 good fans that have good static pressure for your h50 push pull...if i am wrong someone plz correct me...i am thinking of buying one or the other soon for my system


----------



## Ceadderman

The H70 is only slightly better than the H50 in a Push/Pull system. Last temp comparison ~3c difference. It's not worth spending $110 for the H70 when you can just keep what you have now.

I guess to me it's not worth the expense anyway. Is it worth $110 for you to get ~3c better temps? There' your answer.

~Ceadder


----------



## Bodycount

hilarious!







As always i'm not bashing just sharing my find

Where do i start? well really quick.

I have had 3 H50's all free due to a mistake on Fry's/Corsairs part. It all started at Frys when i had to return a faulty motherboard but the H50 backplate was stuck to the board (Double-sided tape) and i didn't have the time/chemicals to remove it before Fry's closed so i decided just to take it with me and remove it there with a so-called tech and professional chemicals. (Safe for electronics)

Well it turned out that when they credited me for the motherboard they also credited me for the H50 aswell. Even i did not catch this at 1st.








(Gotta give him a break as he was new and preceded to try and remove the STACKCOOL from the motherboard (P6T) as opposed to just remove the H50 backplate and hand it to me. *Don't worry i stopped him after about ten seconds of trying to remove the stackcool with a small flat head







*

1st Unit eventually leaked and Corsair RMA'ed it quick and i had a new H50 within 2-3 days but they sent another H50 about a week and a half later
















One leaked witch resulted in two working i7 systems (*from replaced parts and getting all the damaged parts back after tested by corsair costing $61.00 in shipping*) minus the motherboard as i did not get the old one back.

I sold the rma'ed BNIB H50

I'm using one. "In fear" J/k









And i share my tale and now i'm making pennys on the dollar 5 months later








Hey *money is money* and for those that *work* for what they have can relate.

I checked up on my older "SquidooLens<--- Goggle that" and found that people were goggling "H50 Leak Bodycount"







I'm famous. More like maybe infamous Google analytics is where its at If your smart enough.
Ohh i've said to much. Get outta my $$ People









Here's what i mean
http://www.squidoo.com/corsair-h50-leak

Some of you that know me have more info than my own site does

But this post sums it up.








Oh what a world


----------



## markshim

yeh i am going to stick with the H50 for now, i have 2 Gentle tyhphoons coming tomorrow to use for push/pull and i am going to put my 2 Noctua NF P12 in the front of my case to replace the stock case ones.

although Bodycount has got me worried about leaking now







lol.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *markshim* 
yeh i am going to stick with the H50 for now, i have 2 Gentle tyhphoons coming tomorrow to use for push/pull and i am going to put my 2 Noctua NF P12 in the front of my case to replace the stock case ones.

although Bodycount has got me worried about leaking now







lol.

No don't be worried it's very rare. Just be aware









And the more you move the H50 around and put pressure on the lines to the pump/block the greater the chance of a leak.

Set it up and forget it and you should be fine









When mine leaked i may have had that unit in and out of the machine 15-20 times.
But still it should NOT have leaked. This makes lapping it a no go for me because i know how easy it is to accidentally lossen the lines being how the manufacturing of the product is. Now i look at it and grab a flashlight.


----------



## markshim

i have got to move it one more time coz of the new fans i have coming and i want to apply new thermal paste aswell. is it true that the H50 works better if the radiator pipes are at the top and not at the bottom? coz right now mine are at the bottom so i might aswell turn it around aswell if it needs to be.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *markshim* 
i have got to move it one more time coz of the new fans i have coming and i want to apply new thermal paste aswell. is it true that the H50 works better if the radiator pipes are at the top and not at the bottom? coz right now mine are at the bottom so i might aswell turn it around aswell if it needs to be.

No

If you think about it.









If you have the lines at the bottom air will not be able to get into the lines.







(Gravity)
Too much air going through the H50 pump equals pump







death








There is a very small amout of air in the H50


----------



## dockiks

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dockiks* 
I know the Kaze Maru 2 (aka Slipstream 140) fans have 120 mm screw spacings and can fit on the radiator. But will the overall size of the fan be an issue when used with the H50/H70? The fan blades will overhang the radiator edges. Will the "closed tunnel effect" of 120mm fans be lost and result in loss of radiator cooling efficiency if I use these fans? I ordered 2 of these but am planning on using them as front intakes for my Thermaltake Element T. Am planning on using GT AP-15's P/P for the H70 but I'm open to other options such as the KM2 if their being 140mm will offer any improvement over the GT-15's

Thanks for the response zavia. Has anybody had experience using 2 140mm fans for P/P? Any other insights on this?


----------



## 1d10t

count me in











Spoiler: pic















sorry for the blurry picture and messy cables


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *1d10t* 
count me in









Those pipes on the h50 are @ 90degrees to the unit, you must be restricting the flow


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 







hilarious!







As always i'm not bashing just sharing my find

Where do i start? well really quick.

I have had 3 H50's all free due to a mistake on Fry's/Corsairs part. It all started at Frys when i had to return a faulty motherboard but the H50 backplate was stuck to the board (Double-sided tape) and i didn't have the time/chemicals to remove it before Fry's closed so i decided just to take it with me and remove it there with a so-called tech and professional chemicals. (Safe for electronics)

Well it turned out that when they credited me for the motherboard they also credited me for the H50 aswell. Even i did not catch this at 1st.








(Gotta give him a break as he was new and preceded to try and remove the STACKCOOL from the motherboard (P6T) as opposed to just remove the H50 backplate and hand it to me. *Don't worry i stopped him after about ten seconds of trying to remove the stackcool with a small flat head







*

1st Unit eventually leaked and Corsair RMA'ed it quick and i had a new H50 within 2-3 days but they sent another H50 about a week and a half later
















One leaked witch resulted in two working i7 systems (*from replaced parts and getting all the damaged parts back after tested by corsair costing $61.00 in shipping*) minus the motherboard as i did not get the old one back.

I sold the rma'ed BNIB H50

I'm using one. "In fear" J/k









And i share my tale and now i'm making pennys on the dollar 5 months later








Hey *money is money* and for those that *work* for what they have can relate.

I checked up on my older "SquidooLens<--- Goggle that" and found that people were goggling "H50 Leak Bodycount"







I'm famous. More like maybe infamous Google analytics is where its at If your smart enough.
Ohh i've said to much. Get outta my $$ People









Here's what i mean
http://www.squidoo.com/corsair-h50-leak

Some of you that know me have more info than my own site does

But this post sums it up.








Oh what a world









Holy crap man now you got me all worried!!! I just installed this thing last night in a system that only a couple weeks old, I would be devistated lol.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lightsout* 
Holy crap man now you got me all worried!!! I just installed this thing last night in a system that only a couple weeks old, I would be devistated lol.

You have nothing to fear. I've gone through two of them and have twisted and contorted them in ways you can't even imagine with not a single issue. I love having a h50 in my ITX box







The defect rate on these units is minuscule, but you can bet when something goes wrong the internet is gonna hear about it...


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


Originally Posted by *staryoshi* 
You have nothing to fear. I've gone through two of them and have twisted and contorted them in ways you can't even imagine with not a single issue. I love having a h50 in my ITX box







The defect rate on these units is minuscule, but you can bet when something goes wrong the internet is gonna hear about it...

Yah its always gets posted when something fails. I guess theres plenty of people here to vouch for it.

On a side not I honestly don't see much better temps then my hyper 212. But I was happy with the temps before anyways and didn't really buy this thing for that.


----------



## Killhouse

Corsair also have an extremely good customer support. In every case of a leak that I've heard Corsair have replaced entire damaged systems


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Killhouse* 
Corsair also have an extremely good customer support. In every case of a leak that I've heard Corsair have replaced entire damaged systems









Yep. I e-mailed them about a replacement backplate for my h50 (because I hacked this one up to fit the ITX board) and they sent me the whole mount package for all platforms, free of charge and no questions asked


----------



## Ikthus

Just installed my H70 this weekend...my room has a pretty high ambient (28-30C I think) but are these temps normal?


----------



## Kyushu

Did the h70 fit at the rear 120mm fan slot withought hitting any of the heatsinks? Is the vreg heatsink taller than the vreg heatsink on the asus p6x58d premium?


----------



## Ceadderman

@Ikthus... Try increasing the size of your pics before posting them. Can't read the temps so can't say whether or not that's normal or not.









~Ceadder


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


@Ikthus... Try increasing the size of your pics before posting them. Can't read the temps so can't say whether or not that's normal or not.









~Ceadder










If you click on it, you can make the pic bigger. It's always been like that.


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ikthus* 
Just installed my H70 this weekend...my room has a pretty high ambient (28-30C I think) but are these temps normal?

Yeah those temps are about right. I had mine at 1.21 vcore with ambients at 70-75F and 65/65/63/63 or something of the sort across my cores. This was on stock speed and push/pull fans as exhaust.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ahhhh okay, didn't realize that. Nvm Ikthus, carry on.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternal7trance* 
If you click on it, you can make the pic bigger. It's always been like that.


----------



## 1d10t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pedrosa*


Those pipes on the h50 are @ 90degrees to the unit, you must be restricting the flow










nope








i 'didn't see any difference between zero or 90' tilt









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Corsair also have an extremely good customer support. In every case of a leak that I've heard Corsair have replaced entire damaged systems










that would be "something impossible" in my country


----------



## Ikthus

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AdvanSuper* 
Yeah those temps are about right. I had mine at 1.21 vcore with ambients at 70-75F and 65/65/63/63 or something of the sort across my cores. This was on stock speed and push/pull fans as exhaust.

Alright thanks. I have it on push/pull exhaust too. Kind of disappointed with the results so far but I guess I can't except too much with it being summer and not having any kind of AC lol.

Guess I'll wait till fall/winter to OC









@Ceadderman: Yeah you just gotta click on the pic


----------



## Freaxy

Build my new build existing of I7-980X, Asus Rampage III Extreme, Dominator GT DDR3-2000, H70 and the HAF-X. (had the 5970 already)
And currently testing the 4ghz (1.2875v) overclock in prime. Getting high 60's :O
Ambient is 27Â°C
H70 is setup as intake on the back with 2 GT AP-15's as push pull.
Amazing cooler!


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Freaxy*


Build my new build existing of I7-980X, Asus Rampage III Extreme, Dominator GT DDR3-2000, H70 and the HAF-X. (had the 5970 already)
And currently testing the 4ghz (1.2875v) overclock in prime. Getting high 60's :O
Ambient is 27Â°C
H70 is setup as intake on the back with 2 GT AP-15's as push pull.
Amazing cooler!


From my experience if you Change it to intake at the front or exhaust at the back you shall see even better temps.


----------



## BenReclused

Hi ya'll,

I've been following this thread, since I decided I wanted an H50, for about two weeks. Man!!! You guys are hard to keep up with! There is a lot of good information here.

Well..., my H70 should be here Tuesday, so I'm not afraid Bottom Line Telecommunications will run out of stock before I get mine. If anyone is interested, they have 3 left at the time of this post.

I ordered mine late Thursday night..., Fedex had it on the way Friday afternoon.

I'm ready to join this club, how do I do it?

See ya, Milt

Edit:
Forget "I'm ready to join this club, how do I do it?". I am here! The deed is done.


----------



## twizted01

I posted on this thread a few weeks ago about issues i've been having with my h50 and I'm still having them.

Currently using a H50 with a HAF-X on a i7 930 overclocked to 4ghz (1.25V) on an R3E. My idle temps are ~49-50C, and load temp is about ~85-87C. I keep seeing other people on this thread post about how their load temps are sitting at about ~70C with a similar overclock and higher voltage than i'm using which completely boggles me.

I thought the H50 would be at fault so I RMA'd it and slapped a new one on... same temperatures as before. I've tired reapplying TIM several times with MX-3 and the stock paste they use and it hasn't made a difference either. Right now I have my h50 mounted on the back of the haf-x with a push/pull config using coolmaster r4 ~2000rpm / 70-90CFM 120mm fans blowing air into the case.

anyone have any clue as to what i'm doing wrong here?


----------



## gauthier613

Does anyone know the stock size of the tubing on the H70? I'm looking to replace it with some clear stuff while mounting the radiator on the outside of my case.


----------



## reaper~

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BenReclused*


I'm ready to join this club, how do I do it?

See ya, Milt

Edit:
Forget "I'm ready to join this club, how do I do it?". I am here! The deed is done.


Hey Milt, welcome to the the club and if you want, just add yourself to that club's spreadsheet on the first page of this thread by clicking here (and just add your name on the bottom of the list).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *twizted01*


Currently using a H50 with a HAF-X on a i7 930 overclocked to 4ghz (1.25V) on an R3E. My idle temps are ~49-50C, and load temp is about ~85-87C. I keep seeing other people on this thread post about how their load temps are sitting at about ~70C with a similar overclock and higher voltage than i'm using which completely boggles me. 
anyone have any clue as to what i'm doing wrong here?


First of all, no 2 chips are alike. While one person maybe able to OC to 4GHz without bumping the Vcore too much, doesn't necessary mean that yours will be able to do the same. Secondly, your ambient temp also plays a very important role here and it directly effects the H50 ability to cool your CPU. That being said, what's your ambient temp (when your temps were 49 - 50c idle and 85 - 87c during load).

Also if I were you, I would try it with a differnt set of fans. While those CMs are pretty solid fans for computer cases but I don't think they make good radiator fans (not to mention that some of their numbers might be a bit off in terms of CFM and SP). Something like Scythe UltraKaze 3000 (loud) or Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (not as loud) would be better for the H50. Lastly, you might wanna try experimenting with different ways you can mount the unit by reading the PDF file here (link to official Corsair's forum) or some shrouds and so on.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gauthier613*


Does anyone know the stock size of the tubing on the H70? I'm looking to replace it with some clear stuff while mounting the radiator on the outside of my case.


I believe it's 1/4" ID (or 6mm) and 9 inches in length.

Edit: and since this is your first post, welcome.


----------



## digital_steve

Is it just me, or do the hoses on the H70 look shorter than the ones on the H50?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


Is it just me, or do the hoses on the H70 look shorter than the ones on the H50?


I believe these are the hose lengths for each.

- H50 hose length 29cm.
- H70 hose length 21cm.

Images of them side-by-side:


----------



## digital_steve

Nice one, thanks
Another reason not to get it for me then... i need the extra length on the H50 in my rig. My rig will now be staying as is!


----------



## godofdeath

1cm coulda been from the rad seeing as how thick it is


----------



## XMAGUSX

I couldn't find mention of this anywhere - what's the exact size of the CPU block assembly of the H70? It obviously not as tall as the H50, but looks wider.

Also, is there a good picture representation of how far the tubing of the H50/H70 can safely bend?


----------



## 1d10t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
I believe these are the hose lengths for each.

- H50 hose length 29cm.
- H70 hose length 21cm.

Images of them side-by-side:









Corsair cut the hoses and shrunk the waterblock to make rad's thicker


----------



## Kingkau

i wanna join, just cleaned my rad. i forgot about cleaning its been on since dec 09!


----------



## Kyushu

I heard the static pressure of the fans on rad is very important and it's different than cfm. What is static pressure and how can you tell how much static pressure a fan has?

I see a lot of people using the gentle typhoons ap14 or ap15s on the h70 over the stock fans, do the gt ap14 and ap15s have better static pressure than the stock fans on the h70?


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kyushu* 
I heard the static pressure of the fans on rad is very important and it's different than cfm. What is static pressure and how can you tell how much static pressure a fan has?

I see a lot of people using the gentle typhoons ap14 or ap15s on the h70 over the stock fans, do the gt ap14 and ap15s have better static pressure than the stock fans on the h70?

That's a good assumption, but here is what Corsair said when I emailed them asking for the static pressure ratings of the stock fans on a H70:

"You:
Hello,
I am just curious as to what the rated static pressure (in mmH2O) is individually for each of the 2 fans included with the H70 CPU cooler.

-Randy8/20/2010 12:00:31 PM

Technical Support:
I do apologize however we do not have that information available.

Thank You! 8/20/2010 12:26:58 PM"


----------



## Magus2727

Static pressure is the ability for your fan to create pressure. most fans say a home box fan have crappy static pressure. you put a filter in front of it and the amount of air that it can push goes down like a rock in water. static pressure is the mount of (usually H20) when there is no "exit" path for the air. meaning it will force the air through the radiator at a better rate (closer to free flowing). you can get a 100 CFM fan but if it has no static pressure it wont do you any good.

good static pressure fans usually use high fin counts, and thicker then the 25mm that most 120mm fans are.


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd* 
From my experience if you Change it to intake at the front or exhaust at the back you shall see even better temps.

might try that actually... since I got 230mm 200mm and the H70 blowing in and only one 200mm blowing out.. so the GT's on the H70 need to overcome a pretty high pressure that's in the case.
I can feel air blowing out of vent holes where no fans are in the case


----------



## Zavia

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kingkau* 
i wanna join, just cleaned my rad. i forgot about cleaning its been on since dec 09!

Yeah i am def gonna get a filter for my inlet.. yikes.


----------



## sstnt

Guys,

I'm upgrading to an H70 when I swap out my 975 for a 980X. I know there's been a lot of discussion of whether to have the fans blowing INTO the case (as per Corsair) or OUT of the case (as per most everybody else). Since there's 9"+ of tubing and if it would stretch...has anybody tried placing the fans & radiator OUTSIDE the case? Now with the block being low profile, it wouldn't be that tough to cut enough of a hole in the top of the case to thread it through. That way there's NO negative airflow...you can put a fan in the back blowing into the case anyway. What do you think, has anybody done this (I really didnt' want to read through hundreds of posts to find out.)


----------



## Freaxy

Alright got it as exhaust now. Temp difference is very small to none. 
Though inside the case the temps and pressure is a little less. 
This is a good thing, specially for the video card.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sstnt*


Guys,

I'm upgrading to an H70 when I swap out my 975 for a 980X. I know there's been a lot of discussion of whether to have the fans blowing INTO the case (as per Corsair) or OUT of the case (as per most everybody else). Since there's 9"+ of tubing and if it would stretch...has anybody tried placing the fans & radiator OUTSIDE the case? Now with the block being low profile, it wouldn't be that tough to cut enough of a hole in the top of the case to thread it through. That way there's NO negative airflow...you can put a fan in the back blowing into the case anyway. What do you think, has anybody done this (I really didnt' want to read through hundreds of posts to find out.)


That would be alot more of an option with the lower profile. The one reason why I would want to mod my H50 is so I can put the rad. out of the case...


----------



## Kyushu

Ok so wait, um do the Scythe Gentle Typhoon ap14 or ap15 120mmx120mmx25mm fans have better static pressure than the stock fans of the h70 or not? Has someone tested the h70 with stock fans vs the gts? Was it the same, better? If better, how much better (meaning lower temps and or quieter).


----------



## Woundingchaney

Please add me. Just installed my H50. My idle temps arent the greatest (low 40s), but my load temps are nice (right at 70).


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kyushu*


Ok so wait, um do the Scythe Gentle Typhoon ap14 or ap15 120mmx120mmx25mm fans have better static pressure than the stock fans of the h70 or not? Has someone tested the h70 with stock fans vs the gts? Was it the same, better? If better, how much better (meaning lower temps and or quieter).


I am getting my gt's (ap15) tomorrow(tue). I will do a comparison & post it soon.
One thing i am sure of is that the gt's will be quieter, the ones with the H70 sound like a jet engine! The cooling difference i will find out tomorrow.


----------



## Silenthellz28

Add me, H50!


----------



## Kyushu

Awesome. Will you be installing it in the rear fan slot of the case as an exhaust?


----------



## slimbrady

dang, lol, ordered h70 before seeing the above comparison...currently have the h50 making a pretty good stretch to be a front intake(with dualshrouds/dualfans) in my haf932....will be interesting to see if i can make this work the same way without having to mod it. Should arrive wednesday so I'll post back with a pic if I can get it right


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silenthellz28*


Add me, H50!


You have to add yourself like the first post states








Just scroll down the member list and click "Edit this page". Simply go to the bottom and fill in the follow up number, your name and an "x" on which version you have.


----------



## mbemount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pedrosa*


I am getting my gt's (ap15) tomorrow(tue). I will do a comparison & post it soon.
One thing i am sure of is that the gt's will be quieter, the ones with the H70 sound like a jet engine! The cooling difference i will find out tomorrow.


My GT's (ap15) also come in tomorrow so I'll be doing a little bit of testing with a shroud (Feser TFC Xtender) on it also. If I have enough space (not sure if I will) I will be double shrouding it just to see what gains it'd give.


----------



## Santorican

What is the benefit of using an H50 vs. this one? Other than price of course.


----------



## Lucretius

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Santorican*


What is the benefit of using an H50 vs. this one? Other than price of course.


You don't get to tell all of your friends that you're water cooling your CPU... other than that... probably nothing.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Santorican*


What is the benefit of using an H50 vs. this one? Other than price of course.


In theory the system wil run quieter since you may not need as high of an rpm fan to obtain the same amount of cooling.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lucretius*


You don't get to tell all of your friends that you're water cooling your CPU... other than that... probably nothing.


Not true.







Check the results against the H50. The H50 beats it by a good 5 degrees and without any of the size issues! So ya, you get to tell your friends you have a much better cooler that fits on just about any board, looks cleaner and sounds better.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Freaxy*


Alright got it as exhaust now. Temp difference is very small to none. 
Though inside the case the temps and pressure is a little less. 
This is a good thing, specially for the video card.


Good to hear bud, Ofc try if you have the patience the front intake method. Depending on which case you are using it shudnt be much of an issue. I have mine mounted in the front drivebays using quite a few thick cable ties.
Idle temps are usually around 32-37 on all cores and max load around 45-55. 
Will be doing some new tests soon as the ambient temps here have dropped recently.
Will also be cleaning out my San ace H1011's and my rad along with the rest of the RiG. 
Should losen up a few more degrees heh


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kyushu*


Awesome. Will you be installing it in the rear fan slot of the case as an exhaust?


Yes, rear exhaust. I found intake heated up mobo & other components too much.


----------



## bige83

*Hey Add me I have H50 push pull setup*


----------



## slickooz

Hi everyone, new to this forum. So far this forum has so much information. I wished I knew about this years ago. I recently built a new computer and had problem with my Ultra chill tec, it was making clicking noise everything few mins. So I'm going return it, and use stock while deciding what cooler I should use. Will the H70 fit in my Haf 932? Or do I need to configure the case so that I can install the H70 in the back?


----------



## digitally

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slickooz*


Hi everyone, new to this forum. So far this forum has so much information. I wished I knew about this years ago. I recently built a new computer and had problem with my Ultra chill tec, it was making clicking noise everything few mins. So I'm going return it, and use stock while deciding what cooler I should use. Will the H70 fit in my Haf 932? Or do I need to configure the case so that I can install the H70 in the back?


it will, probably will. but that will depends on your mobo; how far from the socket to the rear exhaust but i bet it will reach there definitely.

If you're not overclocking that much(given by the lack of system spec) 
recommend you to go for H50, unless u need that few degrees drop at a higher price.


----------



## digitally

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bige83*


*Hey Add me I have H50 push pull setup*


Welcome Bige







, feel free to add yourself in this page

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?...5ZW5NQkE#gid=0


----------



## bige83

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digitally*


Welcome Bige







, feel free to add yourself in this page


Thank you


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sstnt*


Guys,

I'm upgrading to an H70 when I swap out my 975 for a 980X. I know there's been a lot of discussion of whether to have the fans blowing INTO the case (as per Corsair) or OUT of the case (as per most everybody else). Since there's 9"+ of tubing and if it would stretch...has anybody tried placing the fans & radiator OUTSIDE the case? Now with the block being low profile, it wouldn't be that tough to cut enough of a hole in the top of the case to thread it through. That way there's NO negative airflow...you can put a fan in the back blowing into the case anyway. What do you think, has anybody done this (I really didnt' want to read through hundreds of posts to find out.)


This has been done (somewhere a long way back in this thread - oh the curse of having read every page!). He mounted it out the back somewhere but I don't remember how. He also made a duct for it so that it was drawing fresh air from somewhere colder, but I cant remember the details. I dont think he saw a massive reduction in temperatures, but maybe you can do a better job with the H70.


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Hi fellas

I have my H50 intaking with 2 CM R4 fans, currently sitting at 34C idle with ambient temperature at about 20C. After about an hour of P95 small ftts, my max temp reaches only 65C which is awesome. Vcore is at 1.325v in bios for 4.0ghz, at 4.2ghz I need 1.4v which pushes my temps to 75C, a bit high for my liking but still, I'm contemplating purchasing a Noctua NH-D14 to replace this. U guys think its worth it? I'm going for performance and from the reviews I read about the D-14, it should be quieter and cool better.

Anyways, here's my current rig with H50.


----------



## shapiror06

When I get my H70, I'm thinking about mounting my rad so that it's on the rear of my case, fans blowing in, but one fan and the radiator will be outside the case, I don't see this being a very hard mod.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz*


Hi fellas

I have my H50 intaking with 2 CM R4 fans, currently sitting at 34C idle with ambient temperature at about 20C. After about an hour of P95 small ftts, my max temp reaches only 65C which is awesome. Vcore is at 1.325v in bios for 4.0ghz, at 4.2ghz I need 1.4v which pushes my temps to 75C, a bit high for my liking but still, I'm contemplating purchasing a Noctua NH-D14 to replace this. U guys think its worth it? I'm going for performance and from the reviews I read about the D-14, it should be quieter and cool better.

Anyways, here's my current rig with H50.


Yes the Noctua does indeed cool better(at stock without even changing the fans or TIM)... but here is the thing... it all depends on you .. if it doesn't bother you having such a huge cooler on there.. then its okay... but if you love more the clean look of how the H50 does in your setup... like right now from your pics in my opinion it indeed looks better with the H50 there.

But if you really honestly feel like wanting a higher overclock then spend the money for the change... at all honestly 4ghz at those temps are good enough you don't need the change(stay with the H50 setup), unless you extremely need to have 24/7 4.2ghz or higher.. then that is another story


----------



## slickooz

Here are my specs. Will the H70 work well with this system? Also wanted to know when are they available in the us.
Cpu: i7 930
Cooler: chilltec black
Case: haf 932
Ram: corsair dom 6gb
Mobo: asus p6x58d premium
Hdd: wd black 1tb
Psu: ultra x4 750 watts
Gpu: xfx 5770
Lcd: samsung 23 inch
Mouse: logitech mx100
Keyboard: logitech illuminated

http://www.computerforums.org/showth...=100822&page=2
check bot of 2nd page for pics


----------



## lightsout

Anyone know the exact size of the screws for the H50, so I can get longer ones to do push pull in my storm scout.

I know someone has bought extras at the hardware store.


----------



## reaper~

^ For 120 x 25mm fans should be 6-32 x 1"1/4. I got mine from OSH.


----------



## Silvos00

6/32


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lightsout* 
Anyone know the exact size of the screws for the H50, so I can get longer ones to do push pull in my storm scout.

I know someone has bought extras at the hardware store.

i'm probably misunderstanding you but just want to make sure you know the bolts should not go all the way through the radiator as it would pierce and lead to leaking, so you'll still need 8 bolts: 6/32 - 2"1/4 worked for me to mount fan(25mm)<shroud(35mm) to rad but I needed 6/32 - 2"1/2 to mount the 35mm shroud and 25mm fan with rubber washers, filter, and a mm or two case metal I had to go through for the mount on that side.


----------



## Alexossi79

Some Pics of my setup


Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## kzinti1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


Anyone know the exact size of the screws for the H50, so I can get longer ones to do push pull in my storm scout.

I know someone has bought extras at the hardware store.


On my HAF-X I used 6-32x3" Machine screws from Lowe's Hardware. I forgot the price but they're less than $2.00 and come with nuts so you can use them if they're too long for your particular set-up.
Mine fit the following set-up perfectly: Screw, Corsair washer, fan filter adapter (filter adapter, filter, filter retainer), case, AeroCool Shark 120x25 fan, Feser shroud, Feser gasket, H-70 Radiator, AeroCool Shark fan and a finger guard-grill. 
The finger guard is absolutely necessary for these Shark fans as they have serrations on the blades that will definitely cut the crap out of your fingers when running, or NOT running! They're the most dangerous fans I have ever run across. I don't mean sharp like a plastic serrated knife from some fast-food restaurant, I mean wickedly sharp almost like a Spyderco pocket knife. 
Someone mentioned the more fan blades the higher static pressure. These Shark fans have 15 blades, 1500 rpm, 82.6 CFM, Air Pressure: 1.273mm-H2O and 26.5 dBA. I'll post some temps. when I migrate the comp. in my sig to the HAF-X.
http://aerocool.us/accessory/shark_b12.html
k1 out.


----------



## Zavia

Those are some sharp looking fans, its like there daring you to put stuff in them.


----------



## lightsout

Thanks for all the input on the screws guys. Now you got me scared about peircing the rad, I did try to put one screw in pretty deep when I was mounting the rad to the exhaust but screwing into it from the rear of the case. So there was no fan in between on that side.

I'm going to have a look now just in case.

Ok so question for you guys. I have one fan as a push fan, and the rad is mounted to the rear of my case where the exhaust fan normally goes.

I have 2 of the corsair screws holding the fan to the rad. And 2 corsair screws coming in from the rear of the case into the rad to hold it there. But one screw would not go in all the way so I stopped in fear of breaking something (now I read you could peirce it.) The bottom screw went in fine so I think its ok.

So what would be the proper way to mount this? I guess I should just get more machine screws that are short and screw them all in from the rear of the case.

EDIT I set it up in push pull with both fans mounted inside the case, only 2 fan screws from the rear of the case holding the whole thiing on though, it feels solid but king d of scares me, don't really see any other way to do it.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Thanks for all the input on the screws guys. Now you got me scared about peircing the rad, I did try to put one screw in pretty deep when I was mounting the rad to the exhaust but screwing into it from the rear of the case. So there was no fan in between on that side.


That's what i was told anyway, never actually done it or heard of someone doing it heh =) probably takes a pretty sharp screw(instead of bolt that should be used) and a great deal of pressure but I feel like you can't be too safe when you place liquid inside your pc case, heh.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


I have 2 of the corsair screws holding the fan to the rad. And 2 corsair screws coming in from the rear of the case into the rad to hold it there. But one screw would not go in all the way so I stopped in fear of breaking something (now I read you could peirce it.) The bottom screw went in fine so I think its ok.

So what would be the proper way to mount this? I guess I should just get more machine screws that are short and screw them all in from the rear of the case.


Well proper way would be go to the hardware store and purchase 6/32 diamater bolts with whatever length you need to reach through your components and 3-5mm about? into the rad. Stock ones are 1"1/4 i think...
In the meantime use the corsair screws diagonally 2 on each side covering opposite corners to give the best temporary stability.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


EDIT I set it up in push pull with both fans mounted inside the case, only 2 fan screws from the rear of the case holding the whole thiing on though, it feels solid but king d of scares me, don't really see any other way to do it.


If you're that worried put a washer on the back screws, you would probably freak if you saw how i have mounted by sandwiching the metal bay covering (the piece you twist/break off to install bay devices for first time)inbetween the very bottoms of my fan filter and shroud =)


----------



## lightsout

yah i'm using the 2 screw diaganol method. each fan is held on either side of the rad by the stock screws. but it the must be mounted in the case. so i used 2 fan acrews to go in the 2 remaining holes in the oull fan to mount it to the case. i will need to stop by homw depit to make it a little more secure


----------



## slimbrady

that's pretty much exactly what i did before getting to the hardware store, heh.


----------



## Zavia

When testing a push pull with the crapy screw up fans i got from my builder i used some wood screws and sheared them off with a big set of pliers, lol. I shall have to go to lowes and grab some proper screws for my new panaflos. i just wish they would get here already.


----------



## sstnt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


This has been done (somewhere a long way back in this thread - oh the curse of having read every page!). He mounted it out the back somewhere but I don't remember how. He also made a duct for it so that it was drawing fresh air from somewhere colder, but I cant remember the details. I dont think he saw a massive reduction in temperatures, but maybe you can do a better job with the H70.










Thanks for the reply! 12000+ posts, almost everything's probably been tried but I'm not going to page through all of them!


----------



## Whippet_Good

Just received my H50 and installed it yesterday.

The good news: It was fairly easy to install and brought my idle temps down 5c and load down about 10c.

The bad news: The pump has a loud buzzing noise. Since I bought this to help quiet things down, the noise is unacceptable. I'm going to give it a couple of days to see if it just needs to work itself loose and then I'll RMA it. Hopefully the next one will be quiet.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sstnt*


Thanks for the reply! 12000+ posts, almost everything's probably been tried but I'm not going to page through all of them!


Np, good luck!


----------



## Frankie007

Hey guys just lapped my H50 today and noticed about 8c temp change. My peak temps after 4 hours of prime stand at 72-70-70-68 with 4001.18 mhz at 1.235v OC


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Frankie007*


Hey guys just lapped my H50 today and noticed about 8c temp change. My peak temps after 4 hours of prime stand at 72-70-70-68 with 4001.18 mhz at 1.235v OC


gz man, always nice when all that freaking sanding pays off =D


----------



## Zavia

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Whippet_Good*


Just received my H50 and installed it yesterday.

The good news: It was fairly easy to install and brought my idle temps down 5c and load down about 10c.

The bad news: The pump has a loud buzzing noise. Since I bought this to help quiet things down, the noise is unacceptable. I'm going to give it a couple of days to see if it just needs to work itself loose and then I'll RMA it. Hopefully the next one will be quiet.


There have been a few reports of buzzing H50's, wondering if there's been a bad bearing batch or something.

As has been mentioned here before give the pipes a good tap tap tap to make sure to shift any sitting air up the pipes out of the pump. i had this happen when i remounted after re-tim-ing . Hope the buzzing stops, and you don't have to RMA the thing.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Frankie007*


Hey guys just lapped my H50 today and noticed about 8c temp change. My peak temps after 4 hours of prime stand at 72-70-70-68 with 4001.18 mhz at 1.235v OC


just out of curiosity.....what TIM did you use after lapping? I assume your CPU is lapped as well...what method did you use to apply the TIM? I'm curious as to which method is best for lapped surfaces and how much less on average TIM you should use.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Decided to increase my OC a tad and came up with sum nice temps








And ofc im stable at 3.8 now with my stock voltage of 1.14.

Great stuff and H50 still rocking hard!


----------



## goodwidp

UPS man came by today with a nice gift from Newegg. I'll probably wait til the weekend to install it, though I'm dying to try it out immediately.

I still have some AS5 left over from when I bought my PC. Should I use that instead of the stock thermal paste or is the stuff Corsair uses sufficient?


----------



## slimbrady

the stock shin-etsu TIM is pretty good and has no curing time so it's good for quick results. I'm hooking mine up sometime this week as well so we'll have to compare temps next week.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:



Originally Posted by *goodwidp*


UPS man came by today with a nice gift from Newegg. I'll probably wait til the weekend to install it, though I'm dying to try it out immediately.

I still have some AS5 left over from when I bought my PC. Should I use that instead of the stock thermal paste or is the stuff Corsair uses sufficient


Keep the Shin-etsu stock.


----------



## Carfanatic

It looks like they improved the stock TIM on the H70 too. At least from pictures of the H70 there looked to be a lot less of the TIM on it a much thinner layer so should be better there than the H50 was.

The H50 had so much TIM on it that I would recommend anyone that is going to use the stock TIM to use a rubber glove and remove it and split it in half then reapply it so you didn't have way too much.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


It looks like they improved the stock TIM on the H70 too. At least from pictures of the H70 there looked to be a lot less of the TIM on it a much thinner layer so should be better there than the H50 was.

The H50 had so much TIM on it that I would recommend anyone that is going to use the stock TIM to use a rubber glove and remove it and split it in half then reapply it so you didn't have way too much.


Totally agree, tis what I did after reseating mine.


----------



## goodwidp

Thanks for the replies regarding the TIM. +Rep all around.... 
Carfanatic- what did you use to make the shroud for your H50? I'm considering doing this for the push fan on my H70 (if I have room for it) but wasn't sure what the best method is. I know I could remove the blades from a old 120mm fan (maybe I could do that to one of the stock corsair fans) but is there another method? And if I did use the corsair fan, is there a guide of some sort that could show me exactly what steps to take to turn it into a shroud? Thanks very much.


----------



## For Victory

I'm not in the club yet, but I had some questions for the current members. Let me describe my setup and then see what I get for advice. Everything is in a Corsair 700D. I was planning on getting CM Excalibur fans for push/pull and was going to exhaust through the top center fan slot. My video card is currently a 5970 with the stock cooler. Will the H50 or H70 affect gpu temps? And should I do top exhaust or some other configuration? Lastly, is there a general concensus that the H70 is an overall improvement or are the results mixed? Thanks.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *goodwidp*


Thanks for the replies regarding the TIM. +Rep all around.... 
Carfanatic- what did you use to make the shroud for your H50? I'm considering doing this for the push fan on my H70 (if I have room for it) but wasn't sure what the best method is. I know I could remove the blades from a old 120mm fan (maybe I could do that to one of the stock corsair fans) but is there another method? And if I did use the corsair fan, is there a guide of some sort that could show me exactly what steps to take to turn it into a shroud? Thanks very much.


I found old fans/non working fans to be the best source for shrouds a lot cheaper than buying one pre-made.

If you could use the stock fans from H50 or H70 somewhere else in your case for cooling just buy some cheapo fans from ebay or something. You can get them for as cheap at $2.76 per fan/shroud.

Just cut the three or four places that hold the fan/motor onto the assembly and voila instant shroud.

Cut the circled areas out. On mine I also filed them down after cutting to give it a smoother area.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *For Victory* 
I'm not in the club yet, but I had some questions for the current members. Let me describe my setup and then see what I get for advice. Everything is in a Corsair 700D. I was planning on getting CM Excalibur fans for push/pull and was going to exhaust through the top center fan slot. My video card is currently a 5970 with the stock cooler. Will the H50 or H70 affect gpu temps? And should I do top exhaust or some other configuration? Lastly, is there a general concensus that the H70 is an overall improvement or are the results mixed? Thanks.

Excalibur's are ok but if you get the H70 you would probably be better off with a fan that has higher static pressure.
if you're exhausting the push/pull through top center the cooler is not going to have any negative effect on the components below it. that being said, if you're more worried about your GPU temp than your CPU temp, the above setup would be fine.
If you are going to OC, personally, I'd try to make sure the air pulled into the radiator is as cool as i can make it for perhaps an extra 1-2c temp drop.

The H70 has been consistently outperforming the H50 by i think no less than ~5c from what I've read. The science of it is undeniable as well...larger radiator = increase in the cooling performance of a closed loop like this.

Mine is arriving.....Thursday now, damn...if you can wait till then I plan on doing some very detailed independent testing to compare the two.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
Excalibur's are ok but if you get the H70 you would probably be better off with a fan that has higher static pressure.
if you're exhausting the push/pull through top center the cooler is not going to have any negative effect on the components below it. that being said, if you're more worried about your GPU temp than your CPU temp, the above setup would be fine.
If you are going to OC, personally, I'd try to make sure the air pulled into the radiator is as cool as i can make it for perhaps an extra 1-2c temp drop.

The H70 has been consistently outperforming the H50 by i think no less than ~5c from what I've read. The science of it is undeniable as well...larger radiator = increase in the cooling performance of a closed loop like this.

Mine is arriving.....Thursday now, damn...if you can wait till then I plan on doing some very detailed independent testing to compare the two.

The temperature difference when using the same fans on both the H50 ad H70 is only ~1-2C, 3C at most at least reported from users here. The 5C you see from other reviews and test sites is only when they use different fans on the H70 compared to the H50 or when both use stock fans.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
The temperature difference when using the same fans on both the H50 ad H70 is only ~1-2C, 3C at most at least reported from users here. The 5C you see from other reviews and test sites is only when they use different fans on the H70 compared to the H50 or when both use stock fans.


Interesting, I wonder if my FM123's will finally start to outshine some of these other fans with much lower static pressure.


----------



## digitally

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
I found old fans/non working fans to be the best source for shrouds a lot cheaper than buying one pre-made.

If you could use the stock fans from H50 or H70 somewhere else in your case for cooling just buy some cheapo fans from ebay or something. You can get them for as cheap at $2.76 per fan/shroud.

Just cut the three or four places that hold the fan/motor onto the assembly and voila instant shroud.

Cut the circled areas out. On mine I also filed them down after cutting to give it a smoother area.









so this is shroud... sorry i really didn't know what was it. Nobody knew what was it when i asked them


----------



## Ceadderman

Anyone know the size of the bolts for the H50?









No really...








Muwahahahahahahahahahahaha!!!
~Ceadder


----------



## slimbrady

a shroud is basically anything you mount inbetween your radiator and fan to minimize the "dead spot" effect that occurs when the fan(s) are placed directly on top of the radiator....could make them out of quite a few things but old fans are definatelyyyyy the quick and headeache-free way to go^^

6/32 2"1/4 or 1/2 for thicker shroud(35mm is supposed to be the optimal width)


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kingkau* 
i wanna join, just cleaned my rad. i forgot about cleaning its been on since dec 09!

You don't have to remove H50 from RIG. You can buy it from any store. otherwise you bring it over air shop, they will can do to blow it out like 4 mins for you. If you dont have compress air at home.


----------



## MicahFett

Edited:

Just received my H70 today. Don't actually have my CPU atm and working on getting first self-build completed. I have to thank you all for your very informative posts, this forum has been wonderfully helpful.

Will do a proper sig etc. when I have a functional system.

Off to complete the build (minus the CPU).


----------



## Frankie007

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
just out of curiosity.....what TIM did you use after lapping? I assume your CPU is lapped as well...what method did you use to apply the TIM? I'm curious as to which method is best for lapped surfaces and how much less on average TIM you should use.

I used the same tim every time even when I reseated it 4 times prior to lapping it. It's the shin etsu and I put a bit on the middle spread it with my finger.


----------



## ThaJoker

hey guys can i wash my h50 rad? ill let it dry of coarse!! lol
its just that i tried vacuming the little dust thats on the rad but i feel it needs a wash is that ok?


----------



## dude120

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ThaJoker* 
hey guys can i wash my h50 rad? ill let it dry of coarse!! lol
its just that i tried vacuming the little dust thats on the rad but i feel it needs a wash is that ok?

Compressed air would be a better idea, I'd think.


----------



## ThaJoker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dude120* 
Compressed air would be a better idea, I'd think.

i tried the vacume but i can still see like a "light dust residue" and i thought that it would help temps to fully clean it.??


----------



## cmorin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ThaJoker* 
i tried the vacume but i can still see like a "light dust residue" and i thought that it would help temps to fully clean it.??

if youre woried about getting water on your equipment, get some isopropyl alcohol. its like $3 at a place like walgreens. i got some at a dollar store. works well cleaning things inside the rig. if you wanna take the rad out,you could run a faucet over it as long as you let it dry. I use the alcohol myself though.

if your rad is really dusty, cleaning helps temps.

first post of my membership


----------



## ThaJoker

cheers for the idea & welcome
+rep


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Frankie007* 
I used the same tim every time even when I reseated it 4 times prior to lapping it. It's the shin etsu and I put a bit on the middle spread it with my finger.

Hopefully you had a rubber glove or some other thing on your finger when spreading it. Just the oils on your fingers and interfere with the function of the TIM

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cmorin* 
if youre woried about getting water on your equipment, get some isopropyl alcohol. its like $3 at a place like walgreens. i got some at a dollar store. works well cleaning things inside the rig. if you wanna take the rad out,you could run a faucet over it as long as you let it dry. I use the alcohol myself though.

if your rad is really dusty, cleaning helps temps.

first post of my membership









Make sure if you buy isopropyl alcohol that it is at least 90% alcohol don't buy the cheaper 75% or less cause the other %'s is water which you don't want. The 90%+ evaporates very quick while the 70%- won't.


----------



## Ceadderman

I'm using 50% by Vol Isopropyl. It's not an issue unless you're one of those plug-n-play guys that just has to have it immediately mounted to your system. Even when I'm in that mode I make certain to wipe off the surface with a lint free cloth and then hit it with some air. Works fine.

Normally I go for the higher grade stuff, but this is what my Mother bought when I asked her to pick some up for me when she went across the river on one of her shopping excursions and I was stuck up here. She dropped it off and left without giving me the receipt. At that point it's a done deal. I can make due til this is gone. Got just a bit under half a bottle. Didn't feel the need to open the can of Guilt worms that came with it, by complaining. I did that years ago when I told her no onions on my burger. OMG you would have thought I threatened suicide when I made the mistake of reminding her about it. I got the old "just pick them off" lecture, nvm that the burger still tastes of onions.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Hopefully you had a rubber glove or some other thing on your finger when spreading it. Just the oils on your fingers and interfere with the function of the TIM

Make sure if you buy isopropyl alcohol that it is at least 90% alcohol don't buy the cheaper 75% or less cause the other %'s is water which you don't want. The 90%+ evaporates very quick while the 70%- won't.


----------



## grillinman

I just replaced my Push/Pull Antec Tricools with S Flex F's and I"m getting a considerable whining noise from the pull fan.

If I put pressure around the "frame" of the fan with my hand the noise goes away mostly. If I stop the fan I can't hear it coming from the Push fan.

I tried to search around for this issue but didn't really find anything. I saw one thread (not OCN) where the grill was cut from the pull fan to alleviate the issue. Could it really be turbulence or is the fan just not mounted properly?


----------



## cmorin

Kind of on the topic of h50s,
last weekend i had the bright idea to try lapping for the first time. my cpu then h50. i ran out of mx-2 before putting the equipment back and decided to try mx-3 (for $5 more why not?). now i feel like i have higher temps than before by 2-4C. ive been reading around and people say that there is still a cure time for the mx-3 despite their claims of no cure time, so maybe i just need to give it some more time? also, i added another fan to the window so maybe i accidently screwed up the airflow in the case?

is this increase in temps normal for the first couple hours or did i royally f*** something up?


----------



## grillinman

There is a cure time...

How did you apply the TIM btw?


----------



## cmorin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *grillinman* 
There is a cure time...

How did you apply the TIM btw?

i put a rice grain size drop and spread it with my finger wrapped in plastic


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cmorin* 
Kind of on the topic of h50s,
last weekend i had the bright idea to try lapping for the first time. my cpu then h50. i ran out of mx-2 before putting the equipment back and decided to try mx-3 (for $5 more why not?). now i feel like i have higher temps than before by 2-4C. ive been reading around and people say that there is still a cure time for the mx-3 despite their claims of no cure time, so maybe i just need to give it some more time? also, i added another fan to the window so maybe i accidently screwed up the airflow in the case?

is this increase in temps normal for the first couple hours or did i royally f*** something up?

yea it is and 2-4c is probably about the difference you'll see from a fully cured TIM i think? Shin-Etsu is instantly cured, or rather, doesn't need to be cured at all, so you never see the cure ...curve....when first installing it stock...i thought I had botched mine at one point as well but it evened about over that weekend.
2-4c is a little high i think to be blamed on 1 added fan but I suppose nothing is impossible, heh. More likely though you just need to be patient...if you really had botched you'd bee seeing way more noticeable temperature increases.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cmorin* 
i put a rice grain size drop and spread it with my finger wrapped in plastic

to the CPU only? and so basically same amount as before it was lapped? That just doesn't sit right with me. I was thinking when I get the H70 lapped of using spread but only on heatsink. Used a razorblade to spread on h50 heatsink- after lapping i think that is easier way than trying to worry about wrinkles in your finger condom. Only have a couple more reseats left in my ICDiamond7...gotta get it right, hehe.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *grillinman* 
I just replaced my Push/Pull Antec Tricools with S Flex F's and I"m getting a considerable whining noise from the pull fan.

If I put pressure around the "frame" of the fan with my hand the noise goes away mostly. If I stop the fan I can't hear it coming from the Push fan.

I tried to search around for this issue but didn't really find anything. I saw one thread (not OCN) where the grill was cut from the pull fan to alleviate the issue. Could it really be turbulence or is the fan just not mounted properly?

There is actually quite a few people here that complain(ed) about their H50's making a whining noise and cutting away the grill from the where the fan was mounted it fixed their problem.


----------



## cmorin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimbrady*


to the CPU only? and so basically same amount as before it was lapped? That just doesn't sit right with me. I was thinking when I get the H70 lapped of using spread but only on heatsink. Used a razorblade to spread on h50 heatsink- after lapping i think that is easier way than trying to worry about wrinkles in your finger condom. Only have a couple more reseats left in my ICDiamond7...gotta get it right, hehe.


its just the cpu that had temp increases.. only very slightly on the mobo.
its actually 2-4C above my temps BEFORE lapping so its well over what i was expecting.

non lapped temps: idle-37C load-42C

lapped temps now: idle-39/40C load-48/49C

i think i might give it til tomorrow evening, if i dont see any improvements ill take it apart and reseat it.

thanks for the input


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cmorin* 
its just the cpu that had temp increases.. only very slightly on the mobo.
its actually 2-4C above my temps BEFORE lapping so its well over what i was expecting.

Ah, sorry, meant to ask if you applied TIM to the cpu then placed a bare heatsink on top of it, or if you applied TIM to both surfaces as some people do..(seems like with them both being lapped I should need less TIM than I did when they were rough as I've eliminated a lot of the places the TIM was needed for). I know it's very easy to over do it on the TIM if you're not careful and I would imagine it's even more delicate with lapped surfaces? Anyways, just trying to get your guy's opinion on best TIM/application for lapped cpu and heatsink.


----------



## YoDa SMGee

Hey guys, first post/question here.

I just got a free H50 kit. I installed the H50 (with push/pull Antec Tri-Cool 79cfm fans) on my stock Phenom II 940 and although temps improved (3-4C drop vs Xigmatek S1283) I was less than thrilled.

I have a Swiftech MCR 120mm radiator lying around (the one with the built in reservoir) and I can get another from a friend. I was wondering if I could do something like this: http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?h...&mpage=1#86675 but install a second H50 block/pump/reservoir between the two radiators as I'm a bit worried whether or not one H50 pump can flow enough fluid for two radiators. I've read about pump failures when some people tried to upgrade to a 240mm radiator.

So basically it would be like this: CPU block/pump -> Rad #1 -> pump #2 -> Rad #2 -> Back into CPU block/pump.

Or would it be better to run the pumps in series? So: Pump -> Pump -> Rad -> Rad -> Back into pump.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *YoDa SMGee* 
Hey guys, first post/question here.

I just got a free H50 kit. I installed the H50 (with push/pull Antec Tri-Cool 79cfm fans) on my stock Phenom II 940 and although temps improved (3-4C drop vs Xigmatek S1283) I was less than thrilled.

I have a Swiftech MCR 120mm radiator lying around (the one with the built in reservoir) and I can get another from a friend. I was wondering if I could do something like this: http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?h...&mpage=1#86675 but install a second H50 block/pump/reservoir between the two radiators as I'm a bit worried whether or not one H50 pump can flow enough fluid for two radiators. I've read about pump failures when some people tried to upgrade to a 240mm radiator.

So basically it would be like this: CPU block/pump -> Rad #1 -> pump #2 -> Rad #2 -> Back into CPU block/pump.

Or would it be better to run the pumps in series? So: Pump -> Pump -> Rad -> Rad -> Back into pump.

Well, welcome!

yeah, the H50 is not OMG***WATERCOOLZING but you're not helping any by slapping on tri-cools =P after a lot of work, some money for good rad fans, and location/direction troubleshooting you might get another 4-6c drop, maybe more, out of the H50 without modding the tubing.
I have heard too of how underpowered the pump is in comparison to custom wc systems pumps that people are used to so you probably would indeed bottleneck with too much fluid and not enough pressure by adding another rad by itself. As for pump loop locations all I can say is that it's worth a night or weekend of study(which I haven't fully done). I know waterflow shares some similar problems with airflow when it comes to having multiple 'engines' set up in series.....e.g. apparently it's better to have the push fan at a slightly lower RPM than the pull fan to minimize resistance and optimize the pressure or something along those lines(though i personally felt like it helped when i raised the push fan back to full RPM during a stress test)...have read similar discussions with water pumps but can't seem to find the link now...


----------



## nemeios

Hi all,

I just upgraded my system to a Phenom II X6 1055T and decided to go with H50 for cooling instead of stock cooler. Will be attempting to overclock soon and will post the results as well as some pics here soon.


----------



## pedrosa

Just done a couple of tests on my H70, corsair fans & GT's (1850 rpm models).
Results are interesting, the GT's knocked a couple of degrees off my load temps, but the noise is drastically reduced. The stock corsair fans are really loud whereas the GT's, although having a slight 'whine', are much easier to live with. Both were set up rear exhaust. Ambient temp for both tests was 21c.

Attachment 169673Attachment 169674
Corsair fans 1st pic, GT's second pic


----------



## SightUp

What fans are people putting on the H70? I find mine to be loud in comparison to my H50. I need to get replacements ASAP but I don't wish to loose any cooling performance. Suggestions?


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SightUp*


What fans are people putting on the H70? I find mine to be loud in comparison to my H50. I need to get replacements ASAP but I don't wish to loose any cooling performance. Suggestions?


Read my post here http://www.overclock.net/10471630-post12900.html
It might help.


----------



## SightUp

Are GT's quieter? Which ones did you get? There are like 5 different ones.


----------



## Zavia

Everyone seems to agree the GT-14 or -15 are the best choice for sound and static pressure.


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SightUp*


Are GT's quieter? Which ones did you get? There are like 5 different ones.


They are much quieter than the H70 stock fans. There is a slight 'whine' with the GT's, but it's not too bad. I bought the 1850 rpm ones to get the most airflow.


----------



## SightUp

I chose to use the stock thermal compound on my H70. I had to twist it and it may have popped up once or twice while mounting it. Is this a botched seating? The tubes were so short that it was very hard to put it on.


----------



## For Victory

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimbrady*


Excalibur's are ok but if you get the H70 you would probably be better off with a fan that has higher static pressure. 
if you're exhausting the push/pull through top center the cooler is not going to have any negative effect on the components below it. that being said, if you're more worried about your GPU temp than your CPU temp, the above setup would be fine. 
If you are going to OC, personally, I'd try to make sure the air pulled into the radiator is as cool as i can make it for perhaps an extra 1-2c temp drop.

The H70 has been consistently outperforming the H50 by i think no less than ~5c from what I've read. The science of it is undeniable as well...larger radiator = increase in the cooling performance of a closed loop like this.

Mine is arriving.....Thursday now, damn...if you can wait till then I plan on doing some very detailed independent testing to compare the two.


Is the only real way to make sure the air pulled through the radiator is cool to set the H50/70 up as intake? Can you recommend two fans for the H70? Hopefully the extra money for the H70 is worth it. Thank you.

EDIT: I see the Gentle Typhoons recommended. I thought the Excalibur's were very suited to being used on radiators? Is the GT even better for static pressure than the Excaliburs? Thanks again.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SightUp*


I chose to use the stock thermal compound on my H70. I had to twist it and it may have popped up once or twice while mounting it. Is this a botched seating? The tubes were so short that it was very hard to put it on.


It's probably not to pretty under there =) Not guaranteed but pretty much inevitable that air pockets get induced into the TIM by these kinds of motions.

Might want to try unscrewing the the tension plate completely off the mobo and securing that to the block first and then screwing it back in place evenly, while keeping very light pressure in the opposite direction with the hand holding the block so the TIM doesn't smear until all the screws are back in and ready for tightening and you've positioned the hand not holding the screwdriver to enable you to keep a steady pressure on the block while you finish tightening., j

that was easiest for me as it a stretch to the front of my case and had similar problem.

I use Silverstone FM123's right now and am very happy with their performance. For me the sound does not matter at all as I usually have more noise going on outside my pc than in so if I was going to get different fans I would probably try out a pair of Silverstone's Air Penetrator fans. http://www.youtube.com/v/8m8fC809TK0&color1=0xb1b1b1&

that looks like it would be a fun rad fan xD


----------



## Intense

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zavia*


Everyone seems to agree the GT-14 or -15 are the best choice for sound and static pressure.


i find the scythe gentletyphoons to be perfect for the H50. i have a push/pull and they are pretty damn quiet and my idle temps are like 4 above ambient (for idle i mean like browsing fb and here







).


----------



## MicahFett

Having read through a lot of the forum I feel guilty asking a question about fan setup, but my situation is as follows:

Have the H70, with a push->shroud->rad->pull configuration. It's too large to fit as a rear exhaust without cutting the case and mounting it sticking out.

My PSU sits at the bottom of my case and there is only one fan available on the bottom, one on rear-top and two directly on top.

My GPU creates a sort of barrier b/w the upper and lower halves of the case.

I'm going to mount the H70 setup in the front 5.25" bay and I'm considering the following to configs. I know this has been beaten to death, but I can't do a rear exhaust and that forces me to do an intake with the H70 (which people disapprove of) or intake air from the top of the case (which people disapprove of).

Edit: the question then being; which looks like a better setup? Thanks.


----------



## RonB94GT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MicahFett*


Having read through a lot of the forum I feel guilty asking a question about fan setup, but my situation is as follows:

Have the H70, with a push->shroud->rad->pull configuration. It's too large to fit as a rear exhaust without cutting the case and mounting it sticking out.

My PSU sits at the bottom of my case and there is only one fan available on the bottom, one on rear-top and two directly on top.

My GPU creates a sort of barrier b/w the upper and lower halves of the case.

I'm going to mount the H70 setup in the front 5.25" bay and I'm considering the following to configs. I know this has been beaten to death, but I can't do a rear exhaust and that forces me to do an intake with the H70 (which people disapprove of) or intake air from the top of the case (which people disapprove of).

Edit: the question then being; which looks like a better setup? Thanks.


From the info I have read on here front intake is best. Like you're first picture (except I would do rear as exhaust) My H50 has been sitting for about 1 month been to lazy to install. But going with front intake.


----------



## Zavia

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MicahFett*


Having read through a lot of the forum I feel guilty asking a question about fan setup, but my situation is as follows:

Have the H70, with a push->shroud->rad->pull configuration. It's too large to fit as a rear exhaust without cutting the case and mounting it sticking out.

My PSU sits at the bottom of my case and there is only one fan available on the bottom, one on rear-top and two directly on top.

My GPU creates a sort of barrier b/w the upper and lower halves of the case.

I'm going to mount the H70 setup in the front 5.25" bay and I'm considering the following to configs. I know this has been beaten to death, but I can't do a rear exhaust and that forces me to do an intake with the H70 (which people disapprove of) or intake air from the top of the case (which people disapprove of).

Edit: the question then being; which looks like a better setup? Thanks.


I would think the first setup would work better for a few reasons, 
1) the inflow of air is higher than the output (i prefer this to give a tension of air to push through any extra vented spots to keep more dust out) 
2) the top out flow just makes more sense since heat rises, 
3)with the h50 and fan across hdd's pushing air towards the back (towards psu and across gpu) and the top rear fan pushing towards the front i would think this would give a better air rotation internally and aid overall temp. 
-That's just my two cent's worth anyway XD


----------



## Liz

Hi Everyone,

I am new to this forum and would really appreciate some advice and what you guys/gals might think about an issue Iâ€™m having.

so I set up my system a few weeks ago with a stock h50, I noticed that my temperatures were a tad higher than when I had my old arctic freezer 7. I wondered about this and let it sit for a week to see if it gets a bit better.... after about a week i over clocked it a bit to my current 3.5ghz and the temperatures were at about 38-39 idle and about 60-62 under load... so i felt that these temperatures were a little high and after doing some research I decided to reapply the thermal paste and also lap the heat sink base.

so this sounds all fine and dandy until I put everything back together and turned it on to give it a try......... now when I check my temperatures... the idle has gone down to about 33-34 degrees but my load temperatures are at 67-70 which is up quite a bit from before... so Iâ€™m quite baffled about this situation... I used arctic silver 5, I didnâ€™t change anything else.... my only thought is to wait until the thermal paste perhaps settles a bit but I cant see it going down 10 degrees.....

What do you people think? Thanks in advance for any insight you have to offer!


----------



## mastical

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liz*


Hi Everyone,

I am new to this forum and would really appreciate some advice and what you guys/gals might think about an issue Iâ€™m having.

so I set up my system a few weeks ago with a stock h50, I noticed that my temperatures were a tad higher than when I had my old arctic freezer 7. I wondered about this and let it sit for a week to see if it gets a bit better.... after about a week i over clocked it a bit to my current 3.5ghz and the temperatures were at about 38-39 idle and about 60-62 under load... so i felt that these temperatures were a little high and after doing some research I decided to reapply the thermal paste and also lap the heat sink base.

so this sounds all fine and dandy until I put everything back together and turned it on to give it a try......... now when I check my temperatures... the idle has gone down to about 33-34 degrees but my load temperatures are at 67-70 which is up quite a bit from before... so Iâ€™m quite baffled about this situation... I used arctic silver 5, I didnâ€™t change anything else.... my only thought is to wait until the thermal paste perhaps settles a bit but I cant see it going down 10 degrees.....

What do you people think? Thanks in advance for any insight you have to offer!



Try and reseat. You have to get it just perfect for it to work 100%. It took me 6x to finally get it right.

Too much TIM could cause the temps to increse also.

The TIM that comes from the factroy is better than AS5 also. Keep that in mind.


----------



## MicahFett

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastical*


Try and reseat. You have to get it just perfect for it to work 100%. It took me 6x to finally get it right.

Too much TIM could cause the temps to increse also.

The TIM that comes from the factroy is better than AS5 also. Keep that in mind.


Speaking of factory TIM; are people scraping some of it off (seems to have more than necessary) or just seating it as is?


----------



## Liz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mastical*


Try and reseat. You have to get it just perfect for it to work 100%. It took me 6x to finally get it right.

Too much TIM could cause the temps to increse also.

The TIM that comes from the factroy is better than AS5 also. Keep that in mind.



Thanks for the reply. i actually tried to reseat the heatsink already... about 3 times... and it did get a little bit better... it was pushing 72 degrees on my first try..... the thing that i dont get is that my idle temperatures did go down about 5 degrees.... Intel says my tcase is 72degrees so these temperatures kinda freak me out.... perhaps i should try to find some shin etsu to replace the original thermal compound....??


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liz*


perhaps i should try to find some shin etsu to replace the original thermal compound....??


Did you just re-seat 3 times with the same compound? If so that is the problem.You have to clean the old compound from the cpu & h50 base every time you re-seat & then apply fresh compound.


----------



## mastical

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liz*


Thanks for the reply. i actually tried to reseat the heatsink already... about 3 times... and it did get a little bit better... it was pushing 72 degrees on my first try..... the thing that i dont get is that my idle temperatures did go down about 5 degrees.... Intel says my tcase is 72degrees so these temperatures kinda freak me out.... perhaps i should try to find some shin etsu to replace the original thermal compound....??


Yes shin etsu or mx-2/mx-3 is very good.


----------



## Liz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pedrosa*


Did you just re-seat 3 times with the same compound? If so that is the problem.You have to clean the old compound from the cpu & h50 base every time you re-seat & then apply fresh compound.


ahhh.. even if i just put it on??


----------



## Trademark

i ordered the corsair h70 at newegg should get it by fri will post a pic soon.
cant wait to complete my new build


----------



## staryoshi

Gotta love the h50! Keeps this i3 540 ice cold


----------



## chaoticfury

Hey guys got a question. Today I received new fans for my H50. I was very excited and was hoping for a big difference. I was using S-Flex SFF21E which gave me:
RPM1200 RPM
Air Flow 49.0 CFM

Today I replaced them with:
Gentle Typhoon D1225C12B5AP-15
RPM1850 RPM
Air Flow 98 mÂ³/h

I was shocked to find out that the temperatures did not move at all. They are exactly the same at idle as my scythe fans. Now I figure this is because of the room temperature but even still since a greater amount of air is being forced through should the temperatures not be better?

If you can give me any advice that would be great. They are set up in push pull and mounted in the front bays of my Haf 932.

From my calculations if they are correct:

I had 45 CFM and 98 m3/h is equivalent to 57 CFM


----------



## MicahFett

Your calculations are correct (~58 ft3/min).

You're also correct in that the lack of difference (most likely) lies in the fact that you're at idle operation and the ambient conditions are going to be a factor.

Heat transfer is all about the difference in temperature between two objects. Increasing air speed (in a convective cooling scenario) will increase heat transfer and simulate a greater temperature difference (wind chill factor) but regardless of air speed through your radiator you won't ever get below ambient temperature. You'll eventually be limited by the capacity of your heat transfer devices' abilities to move heat to the radiator vanes (the cpu plate, the h50 plate, the thermal compound, the water, etc.). So practically speaking, your absolute best temperature will always be above your ambient temperature by several degrees (10c-ish).

You're more likely to see a difference under load where that temperature delta and air flow will make a noticeable difference. Have you measured before/after under load?


----------



## Ceadderman

Besides your 1055T what else are you running?

You should fill out your system specs in User CP up top. It would make things so much easier for you if you have any issues that arise during your OC.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *nemeios* 
Hi all,

I just upgraded my system to a Phenom II X6 1055T and decided to go with H50 for cooling instead of stock cooler. Will be attempting to overclock soon and will post the results as well as some pics here soon.


----------



## Ceadderman

Sorry bout the double post guys...

My main question here is, are you using a shroud between your Push fan and the Radiator?

Second is Intake or Exhaust?

3rd is where is your P/P arrangement?

I run mine in Exhaust with a shroud between the Push and Radiator in the 120 spot beneath the I/O panel and I use Yate-Loon High Speed fans.

If we have this information it would help us diagnose your issue.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *chaoticfury* 
Hey guys got a question. Today I received new fans for my H50. I was very excited and was hoping for a big difference. I was using S-Flex SFF21E which gave me:
RPM1200 RPM
Air Flow 49.0 CFM

Today I replaced them with:
Gentle Typhoon D1225C12B5AP-15
RPM1850 RPM
Air Flow 98 mÂ³/h

I was shocked to find out that the temperatures did not move at all. They are exactly the same at idle as my scythe fans. Now I figure this is because of the room temperature but even still since a greater amount of air is being forced through should the temperatures not be better?

If you can give me any advice that would be great. They are set up in push pull and mounted in the front bays of my Haf 932.

From my calculations if they are correct:

I had 45 CFM and 98 m3/h is equivalent to 57 CFM


----------



## For Victory

How do you like the Yates for your H50 Ceadderman? I'm waiting to get paid again before I order either an H50 or H70 for my Q9550, everything going into my 700D. I currently use a Xigmatek S1283, the old one I've had for about two years or maybe more. I still have not enough evidence to choose either the H50 or H70 and am still piecing together a plan for which fans to use and where to put them.


----------



## PTFMWB

Hi all, I'm new to Overclock, but found this forum HUGELY helpful and informative in my decision to go for a H50 in the brand spankin' new rig that I'm about to order.
I'm planning to go for the P193 case and have seen a few people with same combo already. I wondered if anyone has tried to install the H50 radiator on the front top fan as an exhaust?

I know I would need a 140 mm to 120 mm adapter, or sacrifice the 140mm fan for a 120mm, but was mainly wondering about the clearance, will it fit with the MOBO and specifically RAM also around that area? My guess (fingers crossed) would be that it just might fit.

My theory for this setup is that the H50 will be able to get plenty of fresh air from the front of the case that hasn't been heated up by rest of system without exhausting hot air all over the rest of my MOBO. Also see airflow pic below.

Would appreciate any info you guys might have!

http://www.overclock.net/album.php?a...ictureid=17911


----------



## chaoticfury

Ok so I ran the numbers. With the previous fans and prime 95 after one hour it came to:

Core 1: 59
Core 2: 53
Core 3: 52
Core 4: 52

With the new fans:

Core 1: 58
Core 2: 53
Core 3: 52
Core 4: 52

The setup is as follows. <--Fan--Radiator--<--Fan
The only thing in the front is the drive bays which are perforated. Couldn't think of a better word but plastic with holes. Other than that the cable management is good I think. I will try to get a picture in ASAP.
Got the stock fan exhausting with the top. The 230mm intake in the front, 140mm in the back, two gpu's and a spot cooler aimed at my MCP. Also the side stock fan as intake.

Let me know what else I can answer for you. I am just surprised that the cooling difference is minimal at best.


----------



## Enphenate

You can find a great review of the H70 Here by Zardon (ex founder of driverheaven) He compares it to the NH-D14 at 4.5ghz.


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Liz* 
ahhh.. even if i just put it on??

Once you lift off the cooler from the cpu you can create little pockets of air in the tim(compound), if you then just re-seat without cleaning off that can cause the overheating.


----------



## Ceadderman

I love my Yates. Dollar for dollar they're the best performing fan imho.

I don't have to spend extra money on CCs' to light up my otherwise dim Cabinet(Red version) because they are LED style. But not so bright I that I have to wear welding goggles in a darkened room. My monitor blinds me sometimes if it's too bright.









They are easily voltage adjusted, so if you want to use a fan controller you can dial them down to a reasonable dB level w/o issue. Mine are controlled by the MoBo and I run two of them chained off my PWR header and still can dial them down to a reasonable dB level.

And with zero sleeving option I get them at $4 each before shipping so I can get at the minimum 3 of them to every 1 fan of the higher grade offerings such as UKs', GTs' and Slipstreams etc. Shipping only increase the cost a little but dollar for dollar YLs' are the best.

Now if you are not on a budget, R4s' are rated 2 CFM higher. But limited in glow. Being a more subdued option. Or if you are close to a Cafe store you can probably find something reasonable that do out perform YLs'. Even still there are other variables that come into play there.

If noise is an issue I suggest Mediums and Lows which have reasonable CFM:dB levels.

I get my YLs' at Performance-PCs.com and they list the ratings on all of their fans as far as I am aware so even if you're too far away to buy from them I would at least check the ratings and then google the units (regardless of manufacturer) to see if you can get them.

I hope this helps.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *For Victory* 
How do you like the Yates for your H50 Ceadderman? I'm waiting to get paid again before I order either an H50 or H70 for my Q9550, everything going into my 700D. I currently use a Xigmatek S1283, the old one I've had for about two years or maybe more. I still have not enough evidence to choose either the H50 or H70 and am still piecing together a plan for which fans to use and where to put them.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chaoticfury* 
Ok so I ran the numbers. With the previous fans and prime 95 after one hour it came to:

Core 1: 59
Core 2: 53
Core 3: 52
Core 4: 52

With the new fans:

Core 1: 58
Core 2: 53
Core 3: 52
Core 4: 52

The setup is as follows. <--Fan--Radiator--<--Fan
The only thing in the front is the drive bays which are perforated. Couldn't think of a better word but plastic with holes. Other than that the cable management is good I think. I will try to get a picture in ASAP.
Got the stock fan exhausting with the top. The 230mm intake in the front, 140mm in the back, two gpu's and a spot cooler aimed at my MCP. Also the side stock fan as intake.

Let me know what else I can answer for you. I am just surprised that the cooling difference is minimal at best.

You have it in the front or back of your case and without a point of reference your diagram of your setup doesn't tell us if it is exhaust or intake.

The best placement would be to put it in the front drive bays as intake, leave any other front fans as intake and side as intake and then back and top as exhaust.


----------



## For Victory

Carfanatic: if I put a fan bay from Lian Li in my 700D that would occupy 3 of 5 5.25" slots in the case and had the two fans on the cooler pulling air in, would that be ideal for the cooler and the case? That would pretty much mean I'd NEED the H70 because I don't know if the tubes on the H50 are long enough.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *For Victory* 
Carfanatic: if I put a fan bay from Lian Li in my 700D that would occupy 3 of 5 5.25" slots in the case and had the two fans on the cooler pulling air in, would that be ideal for the cooler and the case? That would pretty much mean I'd NEED the H70 because I don't know if the tubes on the H50 are long enough.

The H50 has longer tubes than the H70 so think you got that backwards. It all depends where your CPU sits compared to the front of the case. By the looks of your case you have posted it has a stock place right in front for a 120mm to go so no need to buy anything else it would be perfect to put the H50 or H70 right there.

Edit: see you said you where using a 700D you could either use the adapter like you said or you could use other ghetto mods like zip ties or something a little more stable like mine if you look at my pictures below.


----------



## chaoticfury

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
You have it in the front or back of your case and without a point of reference your diagram of your setup doesn't tell us if it is exhaust or intake.

The best placement would be to put it in the front drive bays as intake, leave any other front fans as intake and side as intake and then back and top as exhaust.


It is set up exactly as you said. It is in the front drive bays as intake, the side and the front are intake, the back and top is exhaust.


----------



## For Victory

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
The H50 has longer tubes than the H70 so think you got that backwards. It all depends where your CPU sits compared to the front of the case. By the looks of your case you have posted it has a stock place right in front for a 120mm to go so no need to buy anything else it would be perfect to put the H50 or H70 right there.

Edit: see you said you where using a 700D you could either use the adapter like you said or you could use other ghetto mods like zip ties or something a little more stable like mine if you look at my pictures below.

Yup, I got it backwards. One of the tricky parts for my decision is that with the FT02 I can just use the 120mm duct immediately over the CPU location and short tubes will be fine. However, for the 700D I will probably need the longer tubes. I have a feeling I am going to have to either stop using the FT02 and put up with possibly higher air temps with the 700D, or else re-sell the 700D and keep using a case that is a great air cooler but has several features that bug me.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, the only way I'd have trouble with using a 700D with the H50 is if I absolutely needed to use the front 5.25" bays to have intake. Is it absolutely proven that this is the best way to use the corsair H coolers or can I fasten the radiator and fans to one of the top 120mm ducts and achieve the same results? I would imagine that intake would be better but it would blow toward the bottom of the case where hot air is likely coming from.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *For Victory* 
Yup, I got it backwards. One of the tricky parts for my decision is that with the FT02 I can just use the 120mm duct immediately over the CPU location and short tubes will be fine. However, for the 700D I will probably need the longer tubes. I have a feeling I am going to have to either stop using the FT02 and put up with possibly higher air temps with the 700D, or else re-sell the 700D and keep using a case that is a great air cooler but has several features that bug me.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, the only way I'd have trouble with using a 700D with the H50 is if I absolutely needed to use the front 5.25" bays to have intake. Is it absolutely proven that this is the best way to use the corsair H coolers or can I fasten the radiator and fans to one of the top 120mm ducts and achieve the same results? I would imagine that intake would be better but it would blow toward the bottom of the case where hot air is likely coming from.

The 700D is smaller than my case and I have mine mounted in my front/drive bays. Shouldn't have too much trouble with the 700D making it fit.


----------



## shapiror06

I know everyone keeps recommending the Gentle Typhoone fans, but I was curious if anyone knows of a fan that has over 10mmH2O or .39inH2O and that is at or below 45dB noise level?


----------



## Ceadderman

I dunno if there is even a definitive review with this information. It may be a case of trial and error testing on your part.

If it is I suggest starting low in the price spectrum and figuring out what works best for you. I know Typhoons are a favorite though.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *shapiror06*


I know everyone keeps recommending the Gentle Typhoone fans, but I was curious if anyone knows of a fan that has over 10mmH2O or .39inH2O and that is at or below 45dB noise level?


----------



## reaper~

lol Another one to join the very exclusive "H50 leak" club. He just posted this today over at Corsair's forum. Hopefully he'll get everthing replaced and soon.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reaper~*


lol Another one to join the very exclusive "H50 leak" club. He just posted this today over at Corsair's forum. Hopefully he'll get everthing replaced and soon.


I think he's not on the exclusive...... i think its the Elite "H50 Leak" Club

That sucks... I hope the compensate him fully if all the hardware gets honestly crippled


----------



## FSBWildcat

Got it installed with two 1,850 GentleTyphoons sucking air in, cause I have the exhaust fan on the top.










Running my i7 920 at 3.80 GHz and these settings:

CPU Multipler = 21X
CPU BLCK = 181
CPU VCore = 1.2000 V
CPU PLL = 1.80 V
QPI/VTT = 1.24 V
DRAM = 1.58 V
IOH Core = auto
ICH Core = auto
RAM = 1448 MHz

After a 3 hour max OCCT test and passing these are the temps:

Idle Temps = 44-42-44-39 C
Load Temps = 72-71-72-68 C

Got it up to 4.1 GHz, but ran to hot for my tastes.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shapiror06*


I know everyone keeps recommending the Gentle Typhoone fans, but I was curious if anyone knows of a fan that has over 10mmH2O or .39inH2O and that is at or below 45dB noise level?


*http://www.silverstonetek.com/produc...fm123&area=usa* I use and like this one


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimbrady*


*http://www.silverstonetek.com/produc...fm123&area=usa* I use and like this one


The FM123 is crap and doesn't come close to it's specs.








http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ht=fan+testing


----------



## Ceadderman

Well there's his problem right there...

...it's an MSi Board he's on.









Actually I think he should be able to run his system once it's dried. If not then he should report it to Corsair and apply for the Warranty.

And then he should get a CH IV MoBo if his MSi is the board I think it is.









~Ceadder


----------



## Liz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pedrosa*


Once you lift off the cooler from the cpu you can create little pockets of air in the tim(compound), if you then just re-seat without cleaning off that can cause the overheating.


ahhhh ok i understand.. so i have since unmounted my heat sink scraped everything off, reapplied the TIM and now my temperatures are even higher... so i have no idea what I'm doing wrong







and is it normal to have up to 6 degrees variance between cores? i have one core that is always cooler than the others... and one that is consistently hotter, and i didn't have this problem before I reapplied the TIM the first time... sigh... my bf keeps telling me that if it's working then don't break it! lol but I cant help myself! I want it to work better! unfortunately... my computer is moody.... so after reapplying it today, it got up to 78 degrees and that was the highest I've ever seen it... so to compensate i dropped the vcore and now i can manage to keep it under 70 but I'm sure it has something to do with the heat sink and the TIM







is it worth it to try a different brand of thermal paste? I dont have a local retailer who sells shin etsu but i know i can get some mx3....

or maybe - i just don't know what I'm doing and I'm making it worse each time..?? i am starting to think this.... should i just leave it alone?


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Well there's his problem right there...

...it's an MSi Board he's on.









Actually I think he should be able to run his system once it's dried. If not then he should report it to Corsair and apply for the Warranty.

And then he should get a CH IV MoBo if his MSi is the board I think it is.









~Ceadder










Blahh I think you are confused on the MSI board he's using.... his is the 790 (the same one I have) which works way better than the 890 which OMG is painfully horrible all the stories so far... ehehehe yours is the CH IV MoBo which follows as 890 so it ain't the same as his MSI.... its not about the MSI board his problem lol


----------



## PTFMWB

Quote:



or maybe - i just don't know what I'm doing and I'm making it worse each time..?? i am starting to think this.... should i just leave it alone?


Hey Liz, souns like you didn't apply the TIM very evenly. I suggest you try again, not sure which TIM you're using, but it shouldn't cause a 8 degree increase. Tip when screwing your cooler back onto the CPU: try to tighten the screws evenly, instead of completely tightening 1 before moving on to the next screw, this ensures a more even distribution of the TIM.

Hope that helps, good luck!


----------



## Ceadderman

@sendblink23









@ Liz... Intel typically runs about 4c higher on 1st core dear. So if your temps are higher it will affect your 1st core temp as well.









I'm not sure but your temps could be affected by _too much_ as well as _too little_ TIM as well as the ambient temp, and how tight you mount the Hydro to the CPU.

So look at your CPU, if you have solid coverage you'll know because the majority of each quadrant should be covered. It doesn't have to cover corner to corner, edge to edge. But the majority of each quadrant must be covered.

Too much TIM between the two surfaces will slow the wicking properties and increase the temps.

Just like solid metal to metal contact will create convection(for lack of the correct word) and overheat the CPU.

If you're applying the TIM correctly it should be thick enough to barely read the Manufacturers info on the surface of the CPU through the TIM but not so thick that it's illegible.

I suggest if you haven't already to get some Shin-Etsu G751 which is the stock paste. You can use X23 if that's all you can get, but its average temp is slightly higher than G751.

And so long as you have not fired up your system you can check under the heatsink and observe your TIM coverage. It could be that your CPU is domed enough that your coverage is limited and instead of having TIM where the dome is that you're getting a straight metal to metal contact.

No worries about a defective CPU or Cooler since all CPUs' will have this defect to some degree. That's why people lapp their CPUs', to give the flattest surface possible for which the TIM can mate the two surfaces without direct contact.









~Ceadder


----------



## sonicit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*


hey, I'll join. 





































everyone who joins this thread should also join the water cooling club in my sig. 


Hello

Where can i find those psu cables you have inside your case?

Thanks.


----------



## PTFMWB

Hi Liz, forgot to mention, but some TIM actually takes a few days (up to a week? - please correct me if I'm wrong here) to properly set, so you may want to wait a little while & observe temps before taking it apart again.


----------



## Liz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PTFMWB*


Hey Liz, souns like you didn't apply the TIM very evenly. I suggest you try again, not sure which TIM you're using, but it shouldn't cause a 8 degree increase. Tip when screwing your cooler back onto the CPU: try to tighten the screws evenly, instead of completely tightening 1 before moving on to the next screw, this ensures a more even distribution of the TIM.


thanks for all your input guys, i'm using arctic silver 5. and yes the temperatures were lower with the stock TIM and then i went and reapplied it and it got much much worse.... (from 62 to like 78) i realize the stock is better and am wondering if i should try to locate that same stuff to try it again... i noticed on the second time i reseated the heatsink that i must tighten the screws evenly because i got marks on the base of the copper plate from the cpu from tightening one screw first. a temperature jump like that i'm sure i'm doing something wrong physically.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


@ Liz... Intel typically runs about 4c higher on 1st core dear. So if your temps are higher it will affect your 1st core temp as well.









I'm not sure but your temps could be affected by _too much_ as well as _too little_ TIM as well as the ambient temp, and how tight you mount the Hydro to the CPU.


ok good to know my cpu isnt wonky. the ambient temps have not changed and i did tighten the mount as tightly as i can the first time and after i noticed marks on my heat sink copper plate i didn't tighten it as much the next time. but seemingly to no effect.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


So look at your CPU, if you have solid coverage you'll know because the majority of each quadrant should be covered. It doesn't have to cover corner to corner, edge to edge. But the majority of each quadrant must be covered.

Too much TIM between the two surfaces will slow the wicking properties and increase the temps.

Just like solid metal to metal contact will create convection(for lack of the correct word) and overheat the CPU.

If you're applying the TIM correctly it should be thick enough to barely read the Manufacturers info on the surface of the CPU through the TIM but not so thick that it's illegible.


ok so i spread the AS5 on with a credit card so it covered the entire top of the cpu then i did the same with the heat sink. and also lapped the bottom of the heat sink and it was nice and shiny before i applied the AS5. Strangely enough i feel that it contacts worse than before...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I suggest if you haven't already to get some Shin-Etsu G751 which is the stock paste. You can use X23 if that's all you can get, but its average temp is slightly higher than G751.


i dont have any local retailers for either of those... someone suggested mx-2 or mx-3 which i can get here.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


And so long as you have not fired up your system you can check under the heatsink and observe your TIM coverage. It could be that your CPU is domed enough that your coverage is limited and instead of having TIM where the dome is that you're getting a straight metal to metal contact.


so i did that. and it seems the middle of the heat sink isn't contacting the core and close to the corners it's metal to metal contact. which is really weird if you say the cpu is domed....

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


No worries about a defective CPU or Cooler since all CPUs' will have this defect to some degree. That's why people lapp their CPUs', to give the flattest surface possible for which the TIM can mate the two surfaces without direct contact.









~Ceadder










yes i have lapped the heat sink but am very very reluctant to do anything to modify the cpu.

thanks again for all your insight and everyone who replied... i am crossing my fingers that i can hopefully come up with something tomorrow.... i prehaps will try once more to maybe mount the pump in a different direction? maybe there will be a better orientation.....? donno...


----------



## Liz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PTFMWB*


Hi Liz, forgot to mention, but some TIM actually takes a few days (up to a week? - please correct me if I'm wrong here) to properly set, so you may want to wait a little while & observe temps before taking it apart again.


i considered that for sure... and if it was like 3-4 degrees difference then i would have thought that too but i tried googling it and noone has ever reported like 10-15 degree jump..... which leads me to think that i physically installed it incorrectly or applied the TIM incorrectly or maybe the stuff i'm using is just not good for this particular heat sink?







(since i used it with an arctic cooler 7 in a different computer and that one runs great...)


----------



## Yellowbeard

This thread still blows my mind. 1.15 MILLION views


----------



## Revained Mortal

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yellowbeard*


This thread still blows my mind. 1.15 MILLION views










lol. it is what it is. i love my H50 and i plan on lapping it later on along with my CPU's IHS.

also get a hold of a mod or Admin to get a vendor status put on


----------



## Ceadderman

**This is most likely your problem.* You only need apply to one surface not both. Basicall you doubled the amount of TIM and even if you didn't squeeze it all out by twisting the Pump into locking position, couple it with any Burn time and your temps will reflect it.

You can get Both the X23 and G751 from performance-pcs.com if you're not in the States they do ship wherever mail can be sent. They're based in Florida and as long as your currency can be converted to US funds it should be all good. I know they ship to Canada cause Bugz got his fans on my recommendation from them. So as long as you're willing to pay Postage they'll ship it. Go with G751 over the X23 since it's cheaper and better.









Yeah CPUs' are domed, but they can also have a "rampart" as I would call it. Like having a Keep in the middle of a Castle. Something like how this looks.










If you look closely you can see where the copper is exposed on the center and the edges. This is an AMD CPU, but it's similar with Intel due to the manufacturing process. As you can see my TIM was a bit off. It wasn't enough to affect the temps but it wasn't optimal either. That was just a half grain of rice set to the center of the CPU and not spread.

While nothing is wrong with spreading out the TIM, I don't recommend it. It's going to get spread when you install the H50 twisting it into the lock ring and then putting pressure to the lockring via the screws. Basically tighten them til they seated and then give them about a quarter turn more in a criss cross pattern. Starting in Q1 then go down and opposite that to Q3 cross over to Q4 then up and across to Q2.

Then leave the side off and tighten each individually a quarter turn while the system is in Idle mode and check your temps if each core starts to increase then back the corresponding screw off the quarter turn you gave it.

That _SHOULD_ fix your issues. If not then maybe it's time to consider RMA if your temps continue to be ungodly high.









Anyway hope this helps.
















Oooooh also you may check the MoBo for a bent socket pin. I don't believe you have one but it could be an issue also.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liz*


_*ok so i spread the AS5 on with a credit card so it covered the entire top of the cpu then i did the same with the heat sink.*_ and also lapped the bottom of the heat sink and it was nice and shiny before i applied the AS5. Strangely enough i feel that it contacts worse than before...

i dont have any local retailers for either of those... someone suggested mx-2 or mx-3 which i can get here.

so i did that. and it seems the middle of the heat sink isn't contacting the core and close to the corners it's metal to metal contact. which is really weird if you say the cpu is domed....


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liz*


ok so i spread the AS5 on with a credit card so it covered the entire top of the cpu then i did the same with the heat sink.


The tim only has to be applied to one surface, never put it on both surfaces. Too much of it has a negative effect.
Edit..beat me to it Ceadder.


----------



## Ceadderman

~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pedrosa*


The tim only has to be applied to one surface, never put it on both surfaces. Too much of it has a negative effect.
Edit..beat me to it Ceadder.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yellowbeard*


This thread still blows my mind. 1.15 MILLION views










Hehe, glad to see some Corsair folks are paying attention to this thread-of-all-threads regarding their Hydro's xD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liz*


which leads me to think that i physically installed it incorrectly or applied the TIM incorrectly or maybe the stuff i'm using is just not good for this particular heat sink?







(since i used it with an arctic cooler 7 in a different computer and that one runs great...)


*Liz* check out a few youtube vids on the subject....do a search for "TIM Application" or "Applying TIM," lots of good videos to be seen some of which compare the different methods and show you how each one reacts under pressure - steered me away from using the spread or line methods.

The heatsink on the H50/70 is pure copper like most high end coolers so just use your favorite TIM, AS5 is probably the most commonly used 'after-market' TIM, I like ICDiamond7 as well...diamond surely transfers heat more effectively than silver, right?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ljason8eg*


The FM123 is crap and doesn't come close to it's specs.








http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ht=fan+testing



Not sure about that man, mine have performed extremely well and outdid the excaliburs I had on my H50. When my room is quiet enough that I can hear fans, they do not make any sort of annoying(whining or odd noises) sounds, so I can hardly believe this guy comparing them to a crying baby.....
Based on my personal experience I would have to say the tester had some faulty products or I was extremely lucky....twice...

Keeping a 4.2ghz AMD overclock under 56c load with my crazy ambients would be pretty hard for sub-par fans(and I have tried a few, believe me), my FM123's do a good job of this and really move some air. The only negative thing I can say about this fan in fact has nothing to do with it's CFM or DBA but rather faulty controllers that came with them. Didn't matter much to me though as I was using a diff controller anyway.

It has been 3 years since that fan round-up as well and if the whole line had problems as "Vapor" is claiming it is possible they have since updated the fans or even switched manufacturers, I have read other reviews(a lot more in number) placing them about level with Scythe Ultra Kaze 3k's, in terms of performance, with less DBA.


----------



## slimbrady

Sorry, everyone, for the double post.


----------



## Zavia

So i went to remount my H50 with some nice long 6/32 screws to put my 38mm panaflo with a shroud on to the back of my case and of course i just happen to have stretched the H50's radiator mounting bracket just enough to where the darn screw wont hold, now i can either go get some 8/32's and try them or i can twist up the bracket put the screws through mount and bolt from the back side, any one ever mounted this way, and had any issues ?


----------



## For Victory

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


The 700D is smaller than my case and I have mine mounted in my front/drive bays. Shouldn't have too much trouble with the 700D making it fit.


What about if I used the H70?


----------



## staryoshi

Just ordered a H70. Gonna run an i3 540 as high as it'll let me take it







I'll be selling my H50 soon


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *For Victory* 
What about if I used the H70?

The best way is to measure your case and then look at the specs of the H70 they don't have them listed on newegg I know someone here posted the exact length of the 70 tubes and sure if you look it up on corsair it would list it too then you would kn ow for sure if the H70 would fit or not.


----------



## Liz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
**This is most likely your problem.* You only need apply to one surface not both. Basicall you doubled the amount of TIM and even if you didn't squeeze it all out by twisting the Pump into locking position, couple it with any Burn time and your temps will reflect it.

I seee... i shall go home and do it properly and see if it helps...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
You can get Both the X23 and G751 from performance-pcs.com if you're not in the States they do ship wherever mail can be sent.

i have visited the site.. im kinda impaitent and i would love to just be able to go to a store and buy it.. Otherwise i may pull out all my hair while waiting for the snail mail to arrive! i will perhaps exhaust all my options before opting to order online.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
While nothing is wrong with spreading out the TIM, I don't recommend it. It's going to get spread when you install the H50 twisting it into the lock ring and then putting pressure to the lockring via the screws. Basically tighten them til they seated and then give them about a quarter turn more in a criss cross pattern. Starting in Q1 then go down and opposite that to Q3 cross over to Q4 then up and across to Q2.

Then leave the side off and tighten each individually a quarter turn while the system is in Idle mode and check your temps if each core starts to increase then back the corresponding screw off the quarter turn you gave it.

i will try this. and if it still doesnt work then i will conclude i have broken it...









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 







Oooooh also you may check the MoBo for a bent socket pin. I don't believe you have one but it could be an issue also.









i have checked the mobo... as far as i can tell it does not have one... Thanks again for your expertise... i really appreaciate all the help i'm getting here and i have my fingers crossed that this is the last time i will need to take apart my computer for a long time!


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
*http://www.silverstonetek.com/produc...fm123&area=usa* I use and like this one

Not exactly the rated static pressure I was looking for, but thanks.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Liz* 
I seee... i shall go home and do it properly and see if it helps...

i have visited the site.. im kinda impaitent and i would love to just be able to go to a store and buy it.. Otherwise i may pull out all my hair while waiting for the snail mail to arrive! i will perhaps exhaust all my options before opting to order online.

i will try this. and if it still doesnt work then i will conclude i have broken it...









i have checked the mobo... as far as i can tell it does not have one... Thanks again for your expertise... i really appreaciate all the help i'm getting here and i have my fingers crossed that this is the last time i will need to take apart my computer for a long time!

One more thing I do not see listed by anyone is to make sure your motherboard is not under-volting the fan(s) or the pump. Make sure it is set to 100% for both in the motherboard bios and that nothing is running that might throttle either the fan or pump like Cool and Quiet or similar software.


----------



## Liz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
One more thing I do not see listed by anyone is to make sure your motherboard is not under-volting the fan(s) or the pump. Make sure it is set to 100% for both in the motherboard bios and that nothing is running that might throttle either the fan or pump like Cool and Quiet or similar software.

I dont have any such programs installed... i've only just reinstalled windows and i'm pretty sure it doesnt comewith them?? (correct me if i'm wrong)

i have also checked in the bios and there are no options to set fan speeds. there is only the Q-fan option which are disabled. i also checked hw monitor and they are both on. one was 1400 something(i'm thinking the pump) and the other was at 1700(i believe this is the fan attached to the radiator) so i assumed those are ok speeds?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liz*


I dont have any such programs installed... i've only just reinstalled windows and i'm pretty sure it doesnt comewith them?? (correct me if i'm wrong)

i have also checked in the bios and there are no options to set fan speeds. there is only the Q-fan option which are disabled. i also checked hw monitor and they are both on. one was 1400 something(i'm thinking the pump) and the other was at 1700(i believe this is the fan attached to the radiator) so i assumed those are ok speeds?


Cool and Quiet is part of the bios also an AMD exclusive thing don't remember what they call the same thing for Intel but it wouldn't matter what OS you have installed if it is in your bios it could be running.

The 1400 is indeed your pump and the stock fan at least is rated at 1600rpm so that is great if it is running 1700rpm.


----------



## Ceadderman

@Liz... Right, as Carfanatic pointed out you can adjust your fan settings in your BIOS. Also make certain you are not plugged into the CPU port with your Main unit, as the temps are variable temps and will slow your pump. If your Push/Pull setup has long enough leads you can chain them together.

As far as snail mail from Performance for TIM. I live completely on the other side of the US from them. I had my last order from them in 2 days.

I order last Tuesday...

TIM
2n1 ATX tool 
1 ft of 1 inch Heatshrink 
1 ft of .5 inch Heatshrink

Checked the tracking number on my USPS shipment on Thursday night.

It was in my P.O. Box by 12pm that day. I happily walked over and opened my letter size P.O. Box expecting to have to go in the next day. It was in my box, I ran home happy as a Loon and started back in on my sleeving.









I don't know where you're at but if it's 2 days for me I can't imagine that it would be much more for you.









If you order a big package from them it takes about 10 days to go cross the US. That's what it took for my big fan order.









~Ceadder


----------



## Trademark

Just got my i7 930 and new Corsair H70 and Haf X ! Just waiting for motherboard now























YouTube- inteli7h70.MP4







YouTube- hafx01


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liz*


I dont have any such programs installed... i've only just reinstalled windows and i'm pretty sure it doesnt comewith them?? (correct me if i'm wrong)

i have also checked in the bios and there are no options to set fan speeds. there is only the Q-fan option which are disabled. i also checked hw monitor and they are both on. one was 1400 something(i'm thinking the pump) and the other was at 1700(i believe this is the fan attached to the radiator) so i assumed those are ok speeds?


Actually it does (assuming it's windows Vista or Windows 7). Go to Control Panel -> Power Options -> Change Plan Settings -> Change Advanced Power Settings -> Processor Power Management -> System Cooling Policy. Make sure it's set to Active and not Passive.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yellowbeard*


This thread still blows my mind. 1.15 MILLION views










You know what would kick some ass seabass? A 120.2 and/or 140.2 dual radiator option for the Corsair Hydro Series extremists! Bring that tidbit of info back to the devlabs!









PS> Welcome to OCN!


----------



## koven

hello, quick question about h50, how should i set up the push-pull in my antec 900? im using scythe GT AP-15


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shapiror06*


I know everyone keeps recommending the Gentle Typhoone fans, but I was curious if anyone knows of a fan that has over 10mmH2O or .39inH2O and that is at or below 45dB noise level?


These are very close to your requirements:

SanAce 9G1212E102

Datasheet


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


These are very close to your requirements:

SanAce 9G1212E102

Datasheet


Thanks for the info! I was looking at San Ace fans before, but I couldn't find the static pressure ratings.

That data sheet is for the 9G1212*G402*, not the 9G1212*E102*. I haven't seen the 402's on sale on the web anywhere, are the 102's as quiet?


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shapiror06*


Thanks for the info! I was looking at San Ace fans before, but I couldn't find the static pressure ratings.

That data sheet is for the 9G1212*G402*, not the 9G1212*E102*. I haven't seen the 402's on sale on the web anywhere, are the 102's as quiet?


It's on the datasheet... scroll down to the 38mm versions. 46db/.4inH2O


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:



Originally Posted by *koven*


hello, quick question about h50, how should i set up the push-pull in my antec 900? im using scythe GT AP-15


Set the fans to push/pull air out of the case.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shapiror06*


Thanks for the info! I was looking at San Ace fans before, but I couldn't find the static pressure ratings.

That data sheet is for the 9G1212*G402*, not the 9G1212*E102*. I haven't seen the 402's on sale on the web anywhere, are the 102's as quiet?


It's actually for both. You just didn't scroll down to the 2nd half of the PDF.


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xmisery*


It's actually for both. You just didn't scroll down to the 2nd half of the PDF.










wow.... i was just looking at the first page, my mistake lol


----------



## looser101

I'm still holding out for these:

High Speed Gentle Typhoon


----------



## Kyushu

When people compare the h50 to the h70 and say it's only 1-3 degrees difference, I assume it's the h50 with a push/ pull configuration with the same fans for both the h50 and h70. However, are they including a shroud for the h50 with a push/pull setup? I heard the shroud offers 1-3 degrees decrease in temps with the h50 and decreases noise, is that true? If so, how does the h50 with push/pull + shroud compare to h70 push/pull? Both with same fans in push/pull.

I just noticed I have +1 rep. Yay!!


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kyushu*


When people compare the h50 to the h70 and say it's only 1-3 degrees difference, I assume it's the h50 with a push/ pull configuration with the same fans for both the h50 and h70. However, are they including a shroud for the h50 with a push/pull setup? I heard the shroud offers 1-3 degrees decrease in temps with the h50 and decreases noise, is that true? If so, how does the h50 with push/pull + shroud compare to h70 push/pull? Both with same fans in push/pull.

I just noticed I have +1 rep. Yay!!


From what I've read, if you slap on a pair of GT AP-15's in P/P on the H50, then place them on your H70, you'll notice about a 3c drop. Adding a shroud to either cooler should help you drop another 1-3c.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


I'm still holding out for these:

High Speed Gentle Typhoon


^^ This. I've been waiting forever on them to get released. I'd take either the 2150's or the 3000's. Cant wait to see what kind of performance difference the new rectifier ring has to offer.


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


I'm still holding out for these:

High Speed Gentle Typhoon


anyone know when these will be available, and what the price range will be? im mostly interested in the 5400rpm model.


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shapiror06*


anyone know when these will be available, and what the price range will be? im mostly interested in the 5400rpm model.


No idea. I've been waiting several months looking and searching. Even got in contact with Nidec but they ***** slapped me and said they wouldn't sell me fans, because they aren't in the 'retail' market. We do have a thread here that we're basically trying to get a pool of interested people together so that we can get a crate of these ordered up, so we'll see how that pans out. If you're interested, post over in that thread.. the more the better!


----------



## Kyushu

So h70s also benefit from shrouds? I thought the thick rad on the h70 wouldn't benefit from a shroud... Is there any benefit to using 2 shrouds on the h70?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kyushu*


So h70s also benefit from shrouds? I thout the thick rad on the h70 wouldn't benefit from a shroud... Is there any benefit to using 2 shrouds on tge h70?


Shrouds are used to reduce the 'dead spot' where the fan rotor is located. Having 1 or 2 will help in both noise reduction and better airflow through the radiator, whether its an H50 or an H70. Typically though, once you place 1 shroud on the radiator (the push side), adding a 2nd one (on the pull side) will slightly give you some benefits, but, don't expect any major drops. Most of your reduction in temps will come from lapping the cpu and the Hx0 block, placing 2 good fans on the radiator and if you want to squeeze an extra 1-2c drop throw some shrouds on it.. ideally something in the ~35-~45mm range for the best performance.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shapiror06*


anyone know when these will be available, and what the price range will be? im mostly interested in the 5400rpm model.


My dream?

140mm Gentle Typhoon







~1200-1500RPM


----------



## Kyushu

Where the hell would a person fit a h70 push/pull with 2 shrouds...


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trademark*


Just got my i7 930 and new Corsair H70 and Haf X ! Just waiting for motherboard now
















YouTube- inteli7h70.MP4
YouTube- hafx01


Congrats!!







lets build your case with h70..

I will look fowarding your next post. Good luck!


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kyushu*


Where the hell would a person fit a h70 push/pull with 2 shrouds...


It would easily fit in mine as long as the hoses where long enough to get to the front of the case and I only have a larger mid tower anyone with a full size tower shouldn't have much trouble either.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


Congrats!!







lets build your case with h70..

I will look fowarding your next post. Good luck!


thanks man i'm just waiting for my motherboard and video card and i'm good to go.


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kyushu*


Where the hell would a person fit a h70 push/pull with 2 shrouds...


Yeah, doesn't that kind of defeat the purpose of going manufactured closed-loop WC over big air???


----------



## shaddix

I mainly chose the H50 due to ease of installation and it adding almost no weight to the mobo.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cmeeks*


Yeah, doesn't that kind of defeat the purpose of going manufactured closed-loop WC over big air???


No matter what you add to the radiator it doesn't increase the weight to the mobo like all big air coolers do so how would it defeat the purpose? Also since a lot of us have it in our front 5 1/4 bays it is almost unseen at least in my case it just barely sticks out the back side of one fan. If my case was a full tower it would completely been hidden. If you have a large ATX board and maybe a smaller case where you would have a hard time fitting a CD/DVD drive in the case without hitting something then it might cause a problem having fans shrouds and the radiator but don't think most people would have that space problem.


----------



## PTFMWB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


I'm still holding out for these:

High Speed Gentle Typhoon


Not sure if I'm reading those charts right, a 0 m3/minute has the highest noise levels? And the minimum is reached when running at 60% of capacity? How come increases in noise level are so incredibly low when pumping it up to 100%?

I, my good sir, am thoroughly confused!


----------



## PTFMWB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cmeeks*


Yeah, doesn't that kind of defeat the purpose of going manufactured closed-loop WC over big air???


I'm going for the H50 because it makes you (a bit) more flexible in choosing where you want the cooling to happen, not sure yet if I'll be installing shrouds, but I think I'll give it a try at some point in the near future. BTW, does anybody know of a comparison in performance between round and square shrouds? Since the radiator is square, I would expect better performance from a square shroud, even if it's just 1 degree..

With regards to that, does anyone have an idea if I could get everything to fit as drawn on the image below? It's a P193 case with w 2x140mm top exhausts, if anyone thinks it will fit, I'm adding a 140mm-120mm adapter to my order! I'm guessing the RAM will get in the way, but would love to know before I order!


----------



## TehCodehzor

So, this may look like a mess to ya, but its what was happening with my case.
I set up a push pull on my H50 today with two Ultra Kaze fans.
Had it set up as pulling air in from the back of the case, like corsair said "gets best results"

The only problem with that and these fans is that I could feel air being pushed out of the front of my case, from above the stock red LED fan. 
Also on the side panel. Air was being pushed out through the mesh the fan didnt cover.

So i flipped them around..
Managed to get 1c lower in temps and no more awkward airflow.

Just thought i would share, lol.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kyushu*


Where the hell would a person fit a h70 push/pull with 2 shrouds...


lol I have mine intaking from bottom of case, I'm going to have to get the dremmel out tomorrow to properly mount it though...right now it isn't even flush but still getting good temps. i'll take some pics tomorrow when I'm done tweaking my components....seriously rearranged my HAF 932 for this one...haven't seen anyone use config like this(that's probably a bad sign, LOL) but what the hell....


----------



## Ceadderman

Well of course you felt air coming out the front and the side. You overloaded your Intake ratio and the Exhaust couldn't keep up with it.









That's why my P/P setup is mounted in the 120 spot up top in Exhaust. Cooler Master 110 fans are really nice but they can get bogged down when someone introduces more flow than they can reasonably offset.









But that's good to know.









~Ceadder


----------



## TehCodehzor

Ya, i really like where you placed the rad. I may try that out and see what happens in a bit.

..how'd you get it up there, anyway?









:O
i just realized if I install it like you do..
i could use my fan controller.
brb


----------



## Ceadderman

Edit:







:ediT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TehCodehzor*










i just realized if I install it like you do..
i could use my fan controller.
brb


Look under the rubber pad on your I/O panel where the Water filler feature would be. See the three mounting screws for the panel? Well is you look behind the outer screws you'll see two holes in the same orientation. You can remove the I/O panel, but better yet you can flop the 932 over on it's side and using the screws that come with your cooling unit you can mount them two in the panel(make sure the washers stay on the threaded shafts) and then the other two mount next to the 200/230 Exhaust.

You'll need some more screws to get your pusher fan into place though if you don;t already have some.









You WILL lose some 5.25 bays but if you have a shallow mount fan controller you can put it in front of the setup so no big loss.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *TehCodehzor*


Ya, i really like where you placed the rad. I may try that out and see what happens in a bit.

..how'd you get it up there, anyway?


----------



## TehCodehzor

Yeaaa, got it now.
And now I can use my fan controller.
and now the noise isnt bad at all








just a slight hmmm, no more than the fan i have in the room.
Thank ya very much.
Rep added


----------



## Ceadderman

And you don't hafta worry about air recirculating through the pump either.









You're welcome.









~Ceadder


----------



## PTFMWB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


That's why my P/P setup is mounted in the 120 spot up top in Exhaust.










YES!!! that's exactly what I want to accomplish as well, just in a completely different case!


----------



## Ceadderman

You should add your system to your Sig thru "User CP". If I knew the Case I might be able to help you get it done. Also helps answer questions that may arise when you ask for help.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *PTFMWB*









YES!!! that's exactly what I want to accomplish as well, just in a completely different case!


----------



## Probi

Hey

Figured out what I was doing wrong, I had mid 40's idle and low 80's at load and coulndn't figured out why since I changed my mobo.







Noob that I am when I redid my set-up I put exhaust at the back case<fan<rad<shroud<fan except that I put both fans facing each other without realizing what I had done.

Anyway, last night I took everything apart, reseated the pump because I though that might b the problem and then while I was moving the rad I saw my mistake. Part of what I was going to try was to do an intake from the front in my 5.25 bay to see what intake would do, anyway fixed my fans and did the intake and now I'm at mid 30's idle and low 60's at load.









I try the intake to see if it would fit and it barely did, there is a set of ribs in the bay where the rad wouldn't go in anymore but I wedge it in there and I didn't have to have to screw it or zip tie it, it just sits there, It's about 3" from the front grill but that doesn't seem to be a problem, you can fell the air being sucked in.

Now it's time to enjoy it and get my OC past 4ghz.


----------



## Zavia

Ok asking again, any one ever bend up the mounting brackets to put a screw through so they can attach with a bolt once put through shroud/fan ??

or would you just say the hell with it and use zip ties ?

this is because my 6/32's wont hole to the brackets because they are stretched.


----------



## Probi

I used my original screws to mount the shroud with two screws diagonally without the washer to minimize the gap and tightened it enough just to bend the shroud frame a little and used zip ties to mount the fan to the shroud.

There is a small gap visible but doesn't seem to be an issue. I would have used the proper screws but I can find 6/32 in 2-1/4" long, longest I could get was 2" and that won't do it.


----------



## Ceadderman

I believe that someone here actually bent them up just enough to run a Tap through to clean up their threads. This happened a couple months back. If you can lay your hands on a 8-32 Tap and T-handle That's what I would do.

I wouldn't bend them out to run the stock size lag bolt through the bigger opening however. Cause doing so you run the risk of the bolt rotating back into the Radiator when you attempt to lock the unit down. Remember now you have to have it secure in order to do so. Save yourself some hassle and deal with it the proper way. If you don't feel confident running the Tap through w/o popping the Rad, you can always gerry-rig it with ZipTies.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zavia* 
Ok asking again, any one ever bend up the mounting brackets to put a screw through so they can attach with a bolt once put through shroud/fan ??

or would you just say the hell with it and use zip ties ?

this is because my 6/32's wont hole to the brackets because they are stretched.


----------



## PTFMWB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
You should add your system to your Sig thru "User CP". If I knew the Case I might be able to help you get it done. Also helps answer questions that may arise when you ask for help.









Thanks for the tip. The reason I didn't add my new system yet is because I don't have it yet, ordering tonight after doing a final check of all components!









I'm a bit too lazy to add my current rig, because it's not nearly as interesting!









The case I'll be ordering is an Antec P193 btw.


----------



## Zavia

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Probi* 
I used my original screws to mount the shroud with two screws diagonally without the washer to minimize the gap and tightened it enough just to bend the shroud frame a little and used zip ties to mount the fan to the shroud.

There is a small gap visible but doesn't seem to be an issue. I would have used the proper screws but I can find 6/32 in 2-1/4" long, longest I could get was 2" and that won't do it.

Thanks for the response.

Hmmm, i managed to get some 3 inch 6/32's problem is theres not enough room to get the damn bolt in place between the rad and mounting bracket and hold it and screw the thing in decently. that why i was thinking about bending the brackets up and sliding the screws in place then bending them back and threading them all through and bolting from exterior, seems every one else hasn't had a threaded mount issue to much.. oh well i will figure it out, just didn't want to hear someone's horror story about accidentally applying to much pressure and snapping the mount off. i will let y'all know how it goes. if my darn zip ties show up tonight, i will have them as my last resort.


----------



## Zavia

Thanks ceaddarman. I'll take that in to consideration. bending bad got it .


----------



## Probi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zavia* 
Thanks ceaddarman. I'll take that in to consideration. bending bad got it .









Zip ties are your friends, they sure helped me out since I couldn't get what I wanted, like ceaddarman I don't know about bending the frame, I bend the fan frame slightly since it does flex just to minimize the gap but the rad sits flush on the fan. I did not apply a lot of pressure to make sure I don't pull the treads out of the rad.


----------



## Davidsen

I'll propably be getting the H50 next week and was wondering, how much cfm does the Stock fan, on the H50, pump out?

Also, would it be better if i switched the stock fan(s) with SilverStone SST-FM122 which pumps out 107cfm at full rpm`?


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Davidsen* 
I'll propably be getting the H50 next week and was wondering, how much cfm does the Stock fan, on the H50, pump out?

Also, would it be better if i switched the stock fan(s) with SilverStone SST-FM122 which pumps out 107cfm at full rpm`?

Not sure about the CFM's
But do note that it needs to go through a radiator, so it needs a good static pressure to get more profit out of it. This is the reason why the GT's are used by a lot of people


----------



## Ceadderman

Don't know, can't be more than 55 CFM though. They're Yate Loon LS series I think. Someone that hasn't yanked their sticker off may have that information.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Davidsen* 
I'll propably be getting the H50 next week and was wondering, how much cfm does the Stock fan, on the H50, pump out?

Ummmmmm *YEEAAH*, it would. 107CFM is more than my Yate-Loon High Speed D12SH-12(F)s' which push 88CFM.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Davidsen* 
Also, would it be better if i switched the stock fan(s) with SilverStone SST-FM122 which pumps out 107cfm at full rpm`?


----------



## mothman

Alittle off topic but was just down at Microcenter and low and behold they had several H70's right there on the shelf ! I was on the fence before but couldn't pass up the chance to pick one up in person.
Thier not listed on the website but anyone with a store near buy might be worth checking it out.


----------



## Yellowbeard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Revained Mortal* 
also get a hold of a mod or Admin to get a vendor status put on

I did that when I registered. I guess no one has gotten around to it yet.


----------



## Probi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mothman* 
Alittle off topic but was just down at Microcenter and low and behold they had several H70's right there on the shelf ! I was on the fence before but couldn't pass up the chance to pick one up in person.
Thier not listed on the website but anyone with a store near buy might be worth checking it out.

From the reviews I've seen it wouldn't be all that benefical if you have a similar setup with an H50 with two fans, add in the shrouds and there won't be much of a difference. If you don't already have an H50 than yes I would say go for it but I don't see it as a viable upgrade expecially with a $120 price tag here in the great north.


----------



## Ceadderman

As far as I know you have to wait until 35 Rep to sell. I don't know if there is a rep increase above that to have Vendor status though.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yellowbeard* 
I did that when I registered. I guess no one has gotten around to it yet.


----------



## Probi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Probi* 
From the reviews I've seen it wouldn't be all that benefical if you have a similar setup with an H50 with two fans, add in the shrouds and there won't be much of a difference. If you don't already have an H50 than yes I would say go for it but I don't see it as a viable upgrade expecially with a $120 price tag here in the great north.









Now if you need the space for extra fans and shroud that the low pump will provide than that's also another reason to get it.


----------



## reaper~

Hmm.. I didn't know that those 2 stock fans that come with the H70 run at 2000 RPM. Might have to swap these GT AP-15 out and try those stock ones. Been reading and everyone said they're kinda loud but hey, if they could drop more temps then I'm all for it.









Edit: also for those with H70 pumps that are making some clicking noises, try turning off the pc (unplug everything) and gently rocking the whole case side to side. I did it a few times and now that clicking noises are gone! I guess there really were some trapped air inside and by doing that, it got rid of those bubbles or trapped air.


----------



## PCSarge

yay 4 P4 HT 3.0ghz pcs running 24/7 folding, im close to cracking 1000 in team ranks







note, dont run smp, they process 6 regular units per day each on single core


----------



## staryoshi

H70 is installed







Overclocking will soon ensue! I used to mount my h50 in an exhaust config, but given the airflow structure of my case I'll give intake a shot.

Ran Prime95 for ~10 minutes, temperatures topped out at 43C and 37C on the two cores at 26C ambient. Will be overclocking it hard tonight


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Just thought I would post pics of my updated mod. Currently the fans are intake, will try exhaust in the next day or so and see the difference.


----------



## Ceadderman

Those fans are probably Yate Loon High Speed Silents non LED function.

Corsair has been paying attention to us in this thread, I've sorta championed for them and posted solid results using them and Corsair has a contract with them. I'm not saying that it's all cause of me. I'm just saying that Corsair pays attention and it shows.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *reaper~*


Hmm.. I didn't know that those 2 stock fans that come with the H70 run at 2000 RPM. Might have to swap these GT AP-15 out and try those stock ones. Been reading and everyone said they're kinda loud but hey, if they could drop more temps then I'm all for it.









Edit: also for those with H70 pumps that are making some clicking noises, try turning off the pc (unplug everything) and gently rocking the whole case side to side. I did it a few times and now that clicking noises are gone! I guess there really were some trapped air inside and but doing that, it got rid of those bubbles or trapped air.


----------



## slickooz

Right now I'm trying to decide what to get. I bought a Chilltec from tiger and have to return it because it was making weird noise. Now they have the h70 for 109. And was wondering how much would the h50 with the mod push pull fans cost? I'm going get 10 credit bc case was little messed up and get another 10 for the difference. So its going cost around 90.


----------



## Liz

thanks guys for all your input, i reseated the heatsink this time putting only a very small dab of TIM on the cpu and then squished it down with the copper plate and now my temperatures are much much better. i will definitely keep that in mind for the future.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


@Liz... Right, as Carfanatic pointed out you can adjust your fan settings in your BIOS. Also make certain you are not plugged into the CPU port with your Main unit, as the temps are variable temps and will slow your pump. If your Push/Pull setup has long enough leads you can chain them together.


i only have the one fan that came with the h50. i may get another one if you think it will make that much of a different. what do you mean by chain them together? do you mean combine the wires and plug them into one connector?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


As far as snail mail from Performance for TIM. I live completely on the other side of the US from them. I had my last order from them in 2 days.

I don't know where you're at but if it's 2 days for me I can't imagine that it would be much more for you.










I live in Canada. so it's always a tossup cuz I've had stuff stopped at the border before!







but since it's working decent i think i'm going to stop messing with it... god forbid i do something wrong again!. but once again thanks for all your input and to everyone else who chimed in!


----------



## clubfoot

[email protected]
cpu = 1.32v
Using AS5 TIM
Idle temps = 30-30-36-36
Prime95 64bit X4, blend load temps = 55-54-55-55


----------



## BinaryBummer

I am happy to say after working on a friends PC they bought me a H50 for labor...









Now I am not yet happy with the temps and after a week or so I may take it down and lap the booger and see what it yields!









What I have learned though is the I owned the Asetek LCLC 120 and it does differ in a few ways.
one the main difference in the H50 is the pump, and the housing uses a slightly different retention where it locks to the housing. Also the Radiator is a bit thinner on the H50 and a bit shorter on height and thickness. The screws on the H50 are a finer thread so my 6x32 x 1 1/4 would not thread into the rad for the push/pull configuration. I had to drill out the holes a tad to get them to thread in. Also the other thing I noticed is the braided power cable and the Hoses are longer then the Asetek LCLC 120mm So there you have it. Even though I had the Asetek Lapped bringing it down 9c the H50 right out the box beats it on the Load temps hands down.


----------



## anti_808

I wasn't expecting amazing results, but was hoping to be pleasantly surprised. H70 installed as recommended, fans at lowest after a five minute Prime:


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *anti_808* 
I wasn't expecting amazing results, but was hoping to be pleasantly surprised. H70 installed as recommended, fans at lowest after a five minute Prime:

What were your ambient temps?


----------



## anti_808

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pedrosa* 
What were your ambient temps?

I'm not sure, the A/C isn't going right now, its probably like 80F in the room ATM. Another warm Hawaiian night.


----------



## BinaryBummer

If your temps are that high at your 2.9Ghz you have something wrong. Go over and recheck everything.
Did you move the baseplate around any when install it? if so you may have messed the TIM up. Don't try to reuse it though...
Go into the BIOS and make sure your fans are set to 100% all the time.

Be sure your fans are on intake or the exhaust pending on what your preference is.

Post back..


----------



## anti_808

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer* 
If your temps are that high at your 2.9Ghz you have something wrong. Go over and recheck everything.
Did you move the baseplate around any when install it? if so you may have messed the TIM up. Don't try to reuse it though...
Go into the BIOS and make sure your fans are set to 100% all the time.

Be sure your fans are on intake or the exhaust pending on what your preference is.

Post back..

We have the same motherboard, how do I make sure the fans are set to 100%?

Taking the TIM off and reapplying seems like a pain also. I -just- finished putting this rig together. Since turning my A/C on my idle has gone down, maybe it was the ambients?


----------



## BinaryBummer

go into the BIOS under the PC HEalth Status and check that the CPU Smart Fan Control is set to Disable


----------



## anti_808

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer* 
go into the BIOS under the PC HEalth Status and check that the CPU Smart Fan Control is set to Disable

Done. Temps dropped another 2-3C. The TIM probably got a little messed up, removing it seems like it would be a chore and a half. Is it as bad as it seems it would be? What are your idle temps?


----------



## BinaryBummer

I would get some AS5 or some more Shin Estu and redo your TIM. I plan on lapping mine if my temps don't drop after a burn in time.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Sry Ignore this post..


----------



## anti_808

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer* 
I would get some AS5 or some more Shin Estu and redo your TIM. I plan on lapping mine if my temps don't drop after a burn in time.

Is 36C a good idle temp for these? I noticed that your screenshot was only 11 seconds into your Prime run, I'm 99% certain that I was at that temperature 11 seconds in as well









If it weren't seated well, wouldn't I be getting dumb results at idle? I'm new to this semi-water stuff, was on air before and got sick of the airplane noises. What's an acceptable range for idle with stock fans?

Also, the cooler hasnt been on for more than 12 hours, but I heard the Shin Estu doesn't require time to start working. That being said, maybe it does need a little time to "burn in"

Thanks for the noob help too btw, appreciate it.


----------



## BinaryBummer

Yeah i had ran my prime earlier for awhile and though hey let me post this real quick so may temps are right at the max load range. 64-65C
36c at idle sound rather normal. I think some folks have a +/- factor pending on there setup. Are you running Push/Pull?
I have a large case and LOTS of air flow. But I am sure I will Lap my plate and use my AS5 like I did with my Asetek. I lapped the Asetek and I dropped 9c so I wonder how it will do on here.


----------



## anti_808

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer* 
Yeah i had ran my prime earlier for awhile and though hey let me post this real quick so may temps are right at the max load range. 64-65C
36c at idle sound rather normal. I think some folks have a +/- factor pending on there setup. Are you running Push/Pull?
I have a large case and LOTS of air flow. But I am sure I will Lap my plate and use my AS5 like I did with my Asetek. I lapped the Asetek and I dropped 9c so I wonder how it will do on here.

My Antec 902 isn't the biggest case ever, but the airflow is decent. I actually hate the case with all of my existence, but it was the only one I could get locally. I'm running push/pull with the fans bringing fresh air in like Corsair recommends.

Probably going to update to a CM HAF or CM Sniper around Christmas time or if Amazon has a huge sale on one of them (free shipping to HI). Not having a backplate hole sucks really hard, and I like CM's tool less drive stuff and the orientation of the HDD rack.


----------



## BinaryBummer

it is only a bit of your time but turn the fans around and point them out and see if it goes up or down any. You may get to much positive pressure going.. won't know till you try..


----------



## anti_808

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BinaryBummer* 
it is only a bit of your time but turn the fans around and point them out and see if it goes up or down any. You may get to much positive pressure going.. won't know till you try..

Gonna see if my temps go down in the next couple of days, who knows what the TIM that is there will do. If it doesn't I'll try turning them to exhaust. If that doesn't work, I might try different fans altogether.

Edit: Looks like I'm getting way better temps than [H] lulz

http://www.hardocp.com/article/2010/...first_install/


----------



## BinaryBummer

Yeah I hear ya. I got you added to friends list so I will post you ..
Gotta call it a night..


----------



## PTFMWB

Just wanted to repeat my question in case people missed it. Does anybody know about performance differences between SQUARE and ROUND fan shrouds? Obviously the radiator of the H50 is square, so in theory this should work (a bit) better?


----------



## Eazycash

Hey guys. ive got my h50 setup 2 antec tricool 120mm fan<rad<fan pushing air out my case. load temps of 50c and idle temps of 28c. heres shot


----------



## lightsout

that looks *****in I need to get an led fan for my rad.

How are they as far as air flow compared to other fans. I have the oem fan from the hyper 212 for my radiator fan, seems to do well.

Anyone know how a tri cool would compare?


----------



## Eazycash

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lightsout* 
that looks *****in I need to get an led fan for my rad.

How are they as far as air flow compared to other fans. I have the oem fan from the hyper 212 for my radiator fan, seems to do well.

Anyone know how a tri cool would compare?

hey light ive got load temps of 55 after 6hrs and idle @ 20c fist one is idle second is load



















i went to check out your fan specs and the cfm is 76.8 @ 2000rpm while mines are 79 cfm @ 2000rpm so you would probably not even notice a difference


----------



## ben h

wat is ur ambient lol


----------



## lightsout

Ok cool I just picked one up going to check it out. What setting are they on? I have some in my case with no LED's and on high they are pretty loud. I'm hoping they will work on the rad on medium, we shall see.


----------



## anti_808

Wow your temps crush mine. I double check the retention ring and the pump/sink and it doesn't move.maybe I'll try to reseat it


----------



## lightsout

Yah thats really low for intel, I just ran some linx runs with the tri cool, topped out at 48c. My ambients are pretty nice right now but hopefully it wont go up too much more on a hot day.


----------



## Eazycash

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ben h*


wat is ur ambient lol


sorry ben forgot to throw that in there my ambient is always between 20c and 25c


----------



## lightsout

Arg after messing with it my NB temp went up a few notches, this damn board. I also grabbed a cathode tube, not sure if I like it or not. It also has a ridiculous amount of wires and stuff that go with it that I had to try and hide which made my case more jammed up.

edit Hmm took the cold cathode tube out and NB dropped back down to 41c. Over that thing. lol


----------



## Garanthor

Hey, does anyone here have an H70 with a 965 C3. I'm wondering what your temps were like compared to an H50 in push/pull. Thanks.


----------



## anti_808

So I figured out what was wrong. I didn't know the extension things were actually resistors and I had used it to extend the pump wire to make the installation look cleaner.







I fail.

Edit: Now I just need to figure out which fans will be quieter, and yield similar cooling results. Any suggestions?


----------



## TehCodehzor

I just ran prime95 for twelve hours and max temp was 59C
i7930 @ 3.5gh (1.1v)

couldnt tell ya the ambient temps, but i dont have any AC and it got to 90F today.
idle temps spread from 37c to 41c


----------



## koven

hey guys, i just put in the h50 in standard setup w/ stock fan, i have x4 955 stock right now idling at 32-34, is this normal? i would have hoped to idling under 30 ? case is antec 900 w/ scythe ap-15's


----------



## Salami991

Quote:


Originally Posted by *koven* 
hey guys, i just put in the h50 in standard setup w/ stock fan, i have x4 955 stock right now idling at 32-34, is this normal? i would have hoped to idling under 30 ? case is antec 900 w/ scythe ap-15's

Depends what your ambient temperature is, in other words idle is near useless.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *anti_808* 









So I figured out what was wrong. I didn't know the extension things were actually resistors and I had used it to extend the pump wire to make the installation look cleaner.







I fail.

Edit: Now I just need to figure out which fans will be quieter, and yield similar cooling results. Any suggestions?

The overall winner, as far as I can tell after having read each of the 1300+ pages in this thread, is Gentle Typhoon AP15's in terms of db vs cfm/static pressure(Yate Loons HS probably 2nd but have a big lead in pricing). If you want to do some independent research, those are the three things to check for.

db = decibels
cfm = cubic feet per min
static pressure = rating for fan's ability to move air through objects(i.e. radiator)

i know you knew all that just making sure =)


----------



## maxik

hi all
i have the h50 now for a couple of weeks and the temps are very good.
i followed the video instructions of corsair - hosels down, the rad fan blowing cold air in, front fan out for max performance.
i looked in the net abot the best performance setup and many said to make it push-pull.
can someone post a screen of this? i don't know how to make this setup

best regards
max


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maxik* 
i looked in the net abot the best performance setup and many said to make it push-pull.
can someone post a screen of this? i don't know how to make this setup
best regards
max

Look at corsair site (link below), gives you some good info. You will also need some 6-32 x 1 1/4 inch screws ( or zip ties) to add the second fan.
http://blog.corsair.com/?p=987


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maxik* 
hi all
i have the h50 now for a couple of weeks and the temps are very good.
i followed the video instructions of corsair - hosels down, the rad fan blowing cold air in, front fan out for max performance.
i looked in the net abot the best performance setup and many said to make it push-pull.
can someone post a screen of this? i don't know how to make this setup

best regards
max

Push pull will work better. Also some fans with higher static pressure help, like the Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15's.
Personally I would mount it as exhaust on the back. I tried intake with this H70 first but the temps inside the case went up like mad. Now as exhaust I saw almost no temp difference on the CPU, but my inside case temps are way way better. It also helps with cooling the graphic card.


----------



## Millerboy3

just recently upgraded from stock cooler to an H50


----------



## For Victory

For anyone who has either an H50 or H70 set up in a Silverstone FT02, where are you putting the fans and radiator, and is it exhaust or intake?


----------



## anti_808

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimbrady*


The overall winner, as far as I can tell after having read each of the 1300+ pages in this thread, is Gentle Typhoon AP15's in terms of db vs cfm/static pressure(Yate Loons HS probably 2nd but have a big lead in pricing). If you want to do some independent research, those are the three things to check for.

db = decibels
cfm = cubic feet per min
static pressure = rating for fan's ability to move air through objects(i.e. radiator)

i know you knew all that just making sure =)


Thanks for this. I started reading through pages, but found myself getting tired very quickly. Going to read up about these fans and compare them to the stock H50 one right now, and possibly order soon after.


----------



## RonB94GT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimbrady*


The overall winner, as far as I can tell after having read each of the 1300+ pages in this thread, is Gentle Typhoon AP15's in terms of db vs cfm/static pressure(Yate Loons HS probably 2nd but have a big lead in pricing). If you want to do some independent research, those are the three things to check for.

db = decibels
cfm = cubic feet per min
static pressure = rating for fan's ability to move air through objects(i.e. radiator)

i know you knew all that just making sure =)


Don't really think Yates Loom are even close to second just cheap. These are very good also.http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...3df54ab44f11a5


----------



## Ceadderman

For virtually the same specs of a Yate-Loon D12SH-12(F)(x2) you would spend $44. I can buy 10 Yates for that price and have nearly identical performance and in my case I can mount 8 of them including the P/P config of the H50 setup.

You don't think that it's in Performance-PCs' best interest to give more information for the San Ace than the Yates'?

Even if my Yates only lasted half as long as the San Ace(speculative lifespan) I'm still ahead by the replacement lifespan







rice performance ratio.

You can buy you San Ace, I'll keep buying the Yates'.









San Ace CFM rating is 88CFM.
Yate Loon Hicgh Speed Silents? 88CFM. Alot closer than you gave them credit for, no?









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *RonB94GT*


Don't really think Yates Loom are even close to second just cheap. These are very good also.http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...3df54ab44f11a5


----------



## RonB94GT

How did know the Yates Rep would chime in.







Don't really care what the specs say I have 2 Yates in the top of my case. I can tell a big difference in quality and the air it's pushing. Funny with all the expensive stuff you have listed in you're specs you cheap out on the cheapest component.


----------



## staryoshi

Working on ramping up my i3 540 now. Started at 3.7Ghz 1.3v (This board is giving me a hard time, trying to feel it out







) and @ 25C and minimum fan speed it's not passing 50C









I may be returning this board soon... It just doesn't want to cooperate :/


----------



## BenReclused

Hi guys,

I'm getting ready to strip my old beast down so I can cut a BAH (Big Ass Hole







) in the top of the case, and get rid of the perforated area area on the back. It's time to install the H70 and Antec Big Boy I received Tuesday.

While I'm at it, I'm going to lap my CPU. I already have 40, 60, and 80 grit paper, so I guess I'm ready to go... (kidding). I think I saw someone here mention using a drop of dish soap mixed with a little water. Is this best, or can you use 90% rubbing alcohol. I'm a little concerned about suds. And no..., I don't mean









See ya, Milt


----------



## Ceadderman

lol, I don't consider it "cheaping out" per se. I consider it refusing to overspend on a component that should not cost me as much as my mouse. I have a G9x. If I bought 3 San Aces', it would cost me as much as I spent on my gaming mouse. I bought 4 Yates(3x120,140) for $20. They're stats are acceptibly similar to the Sans', so it made more sense to buy those than pay too much for similar performance.









I'm not so much a Rep for Yates than I am of Intelligent spending.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *RonB94GT*


How did know the Yates Rep would chime in.







Don't really care what the specs say I have 2 Yates in the top of my case. I can tell a big difference in quality and the air it's pushing. Funny with all the expensive stuff you have listed in you're specs you cheap out on the cheapest component.


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


lol, I don't consider it "cheaping out" per se. I consider it refusing to overspend on a component that should not cost me as much as my mouse. I have a G9x. If I bought 3 San Aces', it would cost me as much as I spent on my gaming mouse. I bought 4 Yates(3x120,140) for $20. *They're stats are acceptibly similar to the Sans', so it made more sense to buy those than pay too much for similar performance*.









I'm not so much a Rep for Yates than I am of Intelligent spending.









~Ceadder










First off, I personally own and have used both the fans in question.

Static pressure is what matters for heatsinks and rads. The San Aces walk all over Yate Loons when it comes to that. In fact, one San Ace will still beat Yate Loons in push/pull. Beats it easily when it comes to CFM as well. The H101 is 99CFM/39 dB. Yate Loon high speed is 88CFM/40 dB The sound the San Aces make is a much less annoying pitch too, plus the build quality is second to none.

Yes they cost a lot. Yes, you get what you pay for.


----------



## digital_steve

Can someone give me some more details in regards to static pressure
What level is desirable for rad use? How do you find the data?
I am using 1900RPM Scythe S-Flex fans and i have no idea of the static pressure.
I'm looking to upgrade some fans soon and if i can get a good/same/better result with quieter fans that have a higher static pressure, i'll go that route.

Seems a bit of black magic at the moment...


----------



## anti_808

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


Can someone give me some more details in regards to static pressure
What level is desirable for rad use? How do you find the data?
I am using 1900RPM Scythe S-Flex fans and i have no idea of the static pressure.
I'm looking to upgrade some fans soon and if i can get a good/same/better result with quieter fans that have a higher static pressure, i'll go that route.

Seems a bit of black magic at the moment...


I think the wider the fan blades, the more pressure they create? I'm not sure how it is actually calculated, but I do believe that you can kind of "eyeball" it. If you have two fans of equal speed and rated CFM, you can assume the one with less space between the blades would have better static pressure? Correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## killeraxemannic

Question for you guys.... is it bad to mix fans for your h50 push pull? I ordered a high static pressure fan for the push part but still have the stock fan for the pull and dont see a change in temps


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:



Originally Posted by *anti_808*


I think the wider the fan blades, the more pressure they create? I'm not sure how it is actually calculated, but I do believe that you can kind of "eyeball" it. If you have two fans of equal speed and rated CFM, you can assume the one with less space between the blades would have better static pressure? Correct me if I'm wrong.


I can't correct you, as i don't know.
No idea if this assumption is correct or not


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *anti_808* 
I think the wider the fan blades, the more pressure they create? I'm not sure how it is actually calculated, but I do believe that you can kind of "eyeball" it. If you have two fans of equal speed and rated CFM, you can assume the one with less space between the blades would have better static pressure? Correct me if I'm wrong.

More blades typically mean better pressure. not sure about the width but either feature would decrease the gap between blades so it's probably valid as well.

Sometimes static pressure can be hard to locate - have had to finally find a product data sheet on some to get that info. Not really something they test for in fan round ups(that i have seen) either. Typically though, unless developed to meet a unique demand(see Silverstone AP series), the higher priced fans have more pressure....usually...

The H50 has a notoriously thin radiator so I wouldn't kill myself trying to find the best static pressure fan for it - well designed fans shouldn't have too much trouble....H70 might be worth doing a little more research.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *killeraxemannic* 
Question for you guys.... is it bad to mix fans for your h50 push pull? I ordered a high static pressure fan for the push part but still have the stock fan for the pull and dont see a change in temps

I've heard a lot of different theories. One of which claims that the push fan should be the cheaper or lower rpm fan if mixing fans. Personally I don't think it's good to mix fans if you can help it as it has the potential to cause the RPM of both fans to get a little wonky.....probably not going to see a big difference in actual temperatures but I'd rather not put extra stress on my $20+ fans xD


----------



## fafner

I got an H-70 from Microcenter a few days ago ($109) to replace my H-50 in my desktop PC. Installation was very simple as the back plate and the retention ring are exactly the same for both coolers. Temps went down about 12-15 degrees; I consider that a great improvement. Now I am going to put my H-50 in my HTPC and add an extra fan to it since I believe a significant part of the improvement over the H-50 is due to the two fan configuration. IMHO, the addition of a second fan is far more likely to make an improvement than simply trying to find the "best" single fan.

fafner


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay. Guys, you want the weaker fan as your Pull fan. The stronger as your Push fan. The reason being that the push fan will set the speed of the Pull fan. If you set them the other way round then you will have the wonky outcome.

Also the reason that you wouldn't notice the difference in temps when installing a "high static" fan is cause you probably aren't using a shroud between the Push and the Radiator and you are not using a high static fan in Pull.

It's kind of like mating a beanie prop with a standard prop on a bell. That little prop will spin alright but it's not going to do anything to get lift for the helicopter. Looks cool on a little kids head but has no benefits whatsoever.

Now I'm not going to get in a pissing match over "static" and if it is beneficial. there are lots of people who seem to believe it is. So I'll go with that. But if it was so beneficial there would be a definitive comparison showing which fans have it and which fans miss the mark.

All I know is that my fans keep my CPU a chilly 29-34c. That's in Push/Pull with a shroud. I don't know what their static specs are, nor do I care. I doubt that a high static fan would cool my CPU much more than what it gets now. And honestly is that not what's REALLY important? they work for me and I would recommend them to anyone that doesn't want to spend a lot on fans, but still wants reasonable performance from them.









Not out to pick a fight, just don't believe that static is the be all end all of the issue. Maybe when I have my full loop I'll be more concerned about it. But I know people who run Yates who do have a full loop. And they aren't afraid to spend money on their system seeing as how they have a $600 Mountain Mods Cabinet and run 18 Yate Loons. I believe they're all Yates anyway.

~Ceadder


----------



## Zavia

I installed my Panaflo ultras, and i will give you my 2 cents worth, high static is much quieter that high cfm, these panalo's have close to the same cfm aas my slipstream's and when i had the slipstream in a push position it sounded like a hair dryer and i felt alot of air coming back out in the wrong direction, now that i have swapped to the high static panaflo's i get much less air pushed back off the radiator and it is a lot quieter. This is why i would assume the best sound quality fans are the Gt's because there high static for lower db's. i don't regret the panaflo's as i don't mind a little sound, but i def had to hook them up to a fan controller to reduce them to 40% for a reasonable sound level.

Re-re-re seated my H50, but due to 90 degree weather (32c) i was really getting some higher than i wanted results. but as it stands i run about 40 idle, and 67 at constant load. running 3.8Ghz with a 1.28 vcore. my qpi/vtt is at 1.355 (kinda high but this chip demanded it of me) rams running at 1800 9/9/9/24. so all in all a decent over clock for a nice stable running machine.


----------



## Probi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fafner* 
I got an H-70 from Microcenter a few days ago ($109) to replace my H-50 in my desktop PC. Installation was very simple as the back plate and the retention ring are exactly the same for both coolers. Temps went down about 12-15 degrees; I consider that a great improvement. Now I am going to put my H-50 in my HTPC and add an extra fan to it since I believe a significant part of the improvement over the H-50 is due to the two fan configuration. IMHO, the addition of a second fan is far more likely to make an improvement than simply trying to find the "best" single fan.

fafner

Well I'm glad to see you got the improvement you wanted to have, however adding a second fan to your H50 would have yielded similar results.









Most reviews I have read on the H70 is that it is hands down better than the H50 in it's original configuration but if you only add another fan to it the difference is only about 3-4c. Glad to see you will use that H50 for your other set-up, personnally, until I see better results or a significant improvement from people with the H70, I will not upgrade.


----------



## Probi

Just thought I would post some pictures, unfortunately this is my old setup whic I just changed last week, hoping to get some new pictures soon.

I now have the setup as intake from the front 5.25 bay. Thight fit.

Attachment 170334

Attachment 170335

Attachment 170336

Attachment 170337


----------



## Zavia

looking very nice Probi.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fafner* 
I got an H-70 from Microcenter a few days ago ($109) to replace my H-50 in my desktop PC. Installation was very simple as the back plate and the retention ring are exactly the same for both coolers. Temps went down about 12-15 degrees; I consider that a great improvement. Now I am going to put my H-50 in my HTPC and add an extra fan to it since I believe a significant part of the improvement over the H-50 is due to the two fan configuration. IMHO, the addition of a second fan is far more likely to make an improvement than simply trying to find the "best" single fan.

fafner

Wow thats a pretty big increase. Most reviews I have seen showed a much smaller temp difference, lucky you.

I had my H50 in push pull but it didn't do much for temps. I think putting a shroud on the push fan will be more beneficial, I'll find out soon enough.


----------



## Probi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zavia* 
looking very nice Probi.

Thanks, I'm going to try and take some picture of my new front intake setup. It is a tight fit in my CM690. Keeps it all nice and cool and all my fabs are at 60% so it's nice and quiet.


----------



## Probi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lightsout* 
Wow thats a pretty big increase. Most reviews I have seen showed a much smaller temp difference, lucky you.

I had my H50 in push pull but it didn't do much for temps. I think putting a shroud on the push fan will be more beneficial, I'll find out soon enough.

Like he said before, he only had the single fan on the H50, since the H70 comes with the two fans than he can really see the difference and it could also be the way it was seated before.

I know when I went from a single fan to two fans I dropped like 7-8c and then I added a shroud and I dropped another 2-3c and than I tried seating the pump until I was happy and when it was all done I had dropped a total of 17-18c from the stock intel under load.


----------



## Zavia

I have finally got my set up to a nice stable place, and am ready to get some sc2 played, woot. I shall take a few pics and get them up here some time soon.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Probi* 
Like he said before, he only had the single fan on the H50, since the H70 comes with the two fans than he can really see the difference and it could also be the way it was seated before.

I know when I went from a single fan to two fans I dropped like 7-8c and then I added a shroud and I dropped another 2-3c and than I tried seating the pump until I was happy and when it was all done I had dropped a total of 17-18c from the stock intel under load.

I only noticed maybe 2-3c difference when I added a pull fan. You guys are seeing much better results maybe I'll try again.


----------



## Jarvillio

I'm sure there is a thread out there for this, but i thought it would be best to ask the owners of the H50's. I know Corsair says that it should be mounted as in intake, this doesn't make much sense to me though. Blowing hot air all over the mobo? Though I've heard that it brings lower temps. What are your recommendations?


----------



## Probi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lightsout* 
I only noticed maybe 2-3c difference when I added a pull fan. You guys are seeing much better results maybe I'll try again.

Try reseating your pump, I really messed it up the first(s) time with too much tim or not properly lined up then I finally got it where I wanted it. I even installed the fans facing each other on the rad once, what a noob I felt like then.









I see your also on an AMD, from what I can read these run quite a bit cooler than the my Intel. I can unsderstand a little why you would see such a small difference but I still think you could do better. What are you averall temp at idle and load?


----------



## Zavia

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Probi* 
Try reseating your pump, I really messed it up the first(s) time with too much tim or not properly lined up then I finally got it where I wanted it. I even installed the fans facing each other on the rad once, what a noob I felt like then.









Oh so long ago, those now so obvious mistakes...

Btw, i got my 38mm Panflo and a 25mm shroud on to the back of my case with a filter using the 8/32 screws i bought, so i didn't need to zip tie the back(because my zips where to darn short) but i did use zips on the pull fan, and its seats very well, so in the end no bending required









I bought some 8" zips but they where to damn thick to go through the holes. Any one had luck finding nice long zips that fit fans well??


----------



## Probi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jarvillio* 
I'm sure there is a thread out there for this, but i thought it would be best to ask the owners of the H50's. I know Corsair says that it should be mounted as in intake, this doesn't make much sense to me though. Blowing hot air all over the mobo? Though I've heard that it brings lower temps. What are your recommendations?

I tried both, in the end I've got intake at the front and I'm down about 2-3c overall but my case is also down since I have 2 fans at the top and one at the back that exhaust that hot air of the rad as soon as it comes in. I didn't think I would see the difference but in my case the front intake was that much better. For some exhaust at the back is still best for their set-up.


----------



## PigmanAFM

I have mine push-pull with a shroud as an exhaust out of the top of my 800d and with an intake providing it with outside air from the back.


----------



## Probi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zavia* 
Oh so long ago, those now so obvious mistakes...

Btw, i got my 38mm Panflo and a 25mm shroud on to the back of my case with a filter using the 8/32 screws i bought, so i didn't need to zip tie the back(because my zips where to darn short) but i did use zips on the pull fan, and its seats very well, so in the end no bending required









I bought some 8" zips but they where to damn thick to go through the holes. Any one had luck finding nice long zips that fit fans well??

Good to see you got your setup working well, I still can't find screws long enough around me and I'm not about to go order some on line when my little trutee zip ties work for me. Just the same, I can only find them 4" long, everything after that the body of the zip tie is too fat to fit through the hole.


----------



## Probi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PigmanAFM* 
I have mine push-pull with a shroud as an exhaust out of the top of my 800d and with an intake providing it with outside air from the back.

Wow you got a GTX 470, that blows hot ait at the back just like my 480. In my view you're just sucking that hot air back in your case by doing an intake at the back, I don't know about your case but could you do an intake from the front where the air should really be cool?


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Probi* 
Good to see you got your setup working well, I still can't find screws long enough around me and I'm not about to go order some on line when my little trutee zip ties work for me. Just the same, I can only find them 4" long, everything after that the body of the zip tie is too fat to fit through the hole.

Put 2 or more of the smaller zip ties together. Or go to Canadian Tire and buy 3" toggle bolts and some 6/32 nuts.


----------



## MicahFett

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jarvillio* 
I'm sure there is a thread out there for this, but i thought it would be best to ask the owners of the H50's. I know Corsair says that it should be mounted as in intake, this doesn't make much sense to me though. Blowing hot air all over the mobo? Though I've heard that it brings lower temps. What are your recommendations?

General Consensus in 1300+ pages:

Mount as rear exhaust, push->shroud->rad->pull.

No shroud? Keep same config but w/o shroud.


----------



## MicahFett

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maxik* 
hi all
i have the h50 now for a couple of weeks and the temps are very good.
i followed the video instructions of corsair - hosels down, the rad fan blowing cold air in, front fan out for max performance.
i looked in the net abot the best performance setup and many said to make it push-pull.
can someone post a screen of this? i don't know how to make this setup

best regards
max

Max,

Not sure if this is the question you're asking, but "push/pull" means that you have one fan attached to the radiator blowing air into it (push) and one fan attached on the opposite side of the radiator blowing air away from it (pull).

it improves the air flow through the radiator.


----------



## PigmanAFM

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Probi* 
Wow you got a GTX 470, that blows hot ait at the back just like my 480. In my view you're just sucking that hot air back in your case by doing an intake at the back, I don't know about your case but could you do an intake from the front where the air should really be cool?

I do. I have a Scythe Kama Bay Plus in the front as an extra intake. I'm going to add a Gelid Icy vision as soon as I get around to it. Since that will stop the hot air from exiting the back and keep it in the case, I plan on reversing the back fan into an exhaust. I may end up changing the H50 to an intake at that time if I sees a rise in temps.


----------



## maxik

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Freaxy* 
Push pull will work better. Also some fans with higher static pressure help, like the Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15's.
Personally I would mount it as exhaust on the back. I tried intake with this H70 first but the temps inside the case went up like mad. Now as exhaust I saw almost no temp difference on the CPU, but my inside case temps are way way better. It also helps with cooling the graphic card.

actually i have the front fan as an exhaust.
to cool the 5770 i puttde my silent eagle 2000 (120mm) on the side panel beneath the graphics card.

in theese coming days i'll try push pull...


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maxik* 
actually i have the front fan as an exhaust.
to cool the 5770 i puttde my silent eagle 2000 (120mm) on the side panel beneath the graphics card.

in theese coming days i'll try push pull...

it could work, though seeing you got stock GPU cooling it will exhaust hot air from the card out of the back. Hot air rises and will be taken in by the H50.
Exhaust might actually lower the temps.


----------



## Probi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PigmanAFM* 
I do. I have a Scythe Kama Bay Plus in the front as an extra intake. I'm going to add a Gelid Icy vision as soon as I get around to it. Since that will stop the hot air from exiting the back and keep it in the case, I plan on reversing the back fan into an exhaust. I may end up changing the H50 to an intake at that time if I sees a rise in temps.

You'll never know what you get until you try, for me it was a nice suprise, I was a skeptic about intake but in my case it worked great, others it made it worst so each result will be different, I'll try an take some new pictures tonight so you can see my final setup, it might clear up a few things.


----------



## MicahFett

this weekend I was messing with the radiator/shroud etc. and was looking for some 6/32 bolts longer than 2". I was unable to find any at Home Depot and in dispair I began to randomly compare the 6/32 bolts that I had with other hardware in the aisle.

Long story short, I picked up bolts labeled as 1/8" x 3" and they fit perfectly. Cost like $0.98 for a pack of 4 bolts.

If you can't find the 6/32 in an appropriate length, bring the bolt to the hardware store and compare it to bolts in the 1/8" diameter category and you may find what you need. Didn't notice anyone posting this info previously, hope that I'm not just restating obvious knowledge.


----------



## Ceadderman

If adding a 25mm shroud you would need 2 and 1/4 in lon 6-32s'.

I wasn't able to find them so I had to buy 3" and cut them to size after adding a pair or retaining nuts and cutting at the back one on each bolt.

If using a 35mm shroud, I'm pretty sure you can use them w/o cutting, but would probably need some washers to keep the bolts from puncturing the Radiator.

Actually mine are a bit longer than 2 and 1/4 as I have the square fan silencers as gaskets to seal the unit. Glue is the last thing to use since it doesn't seal anything unless applied to the entire surface. Fan silencers aren't expensive and what I would suggest every time.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *MicahFett*


this weekend I was messing with the radiator/shroud etc. and was looking for some 6/32 bolts longer than 2". I was unable to find any at Home Depot and in dispair I began to randomly compare the 6/32 bolts that I had with other hardware in the aisle.

Long story short, I picked up bolts labeled as 1/8" x 3" and they fit perfectly. Cost like $0.98 for a pack of 4 bolts.

If you can't find the 6/32 in an appropriate length, bring the bolt to the hardware store and compare it to bolts in the 1/8" diameter category and you may find what you need. Didn't notice anyone posting this info previously, hope that I'm not just restating obvious knowledge.


----------



## digital_steve

I'll add another vote for intake
I d*cked around with various options as exhaust, and saw significant difference when i moved it to an intake.


----------



## Jarvillio

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


I'll add another vote for intake
I d*cked around with various options as exhaust, and saw significant difference when i moved it to an intake.


How does that even make sense though...(maybe this is why i'm a history and political science major) i don't see how blowing warm air in to the case could be anything but detrimental to the overall temps.


----------



## Logikz

Quick question, does the pump for the H70 run at 1400rpm (same as the h50) or is it higher?


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jarvillio*


How does that even make sense though...(maybe this is why i'm a history and political science major) i don't see how blowing warm air in to the case could be anything but detrimental to the overall temps.


Your qualifications aside, the temp increase in the case is minimal in my setup.
The rad intake is mounted high at the front and i have 2 top exhausts @ 140mm that suck out a fair amount of air. I run a ram cooler thingy as well and also have a normal rear exhaust.
The temp increase in the case was 2 degrees.

History and political science aside, my setup works for me.
Can't argue with that really.


----------



## peeinginthepool

I have my H70 in a push pull config exhausting out of the top 120mm fan mount in my 800D, ive reversed the rear 140mm fan to act as an intake, helping keep warm air outta my case while providing cool air to the rad/H70.

CooLHandL


----------



## staryoshi

I decided to return my H70 and stick with the H50 since I'm going with the X2 555


----------



## Ceadderman

Hmmm maybe you should sell your 555 and use the refund to get 955 BE.









With the price of that coming down, now is a good time to consider it.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *staryoshi*


I decided to return my H70 and stick with the H50 since I'm going with the X2 555


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Probi*


Try reseating your pump, I really messed it up the first(s) time with too much tim or not properly lined up then I finally got it where I wanted it. I even installed the fans facing each other on the rad once, what a noob I felt like then.









I see your also on an AMD, from what I can read these run quite a bit cooler than the my Intel. I can unsderstand a little why you would see such a small difference but I still think you could do better. What are you averall temp at idle and load?


Idle is 30 load is 48c. I'm pretty happy with these temps. I could probably squeeze a few more C out of it but at this time I'm happy.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jarvillio*


How does that even make sense though...(maybe this is why i'm a history and political science major) i don't see how blowing warm air in to the case could be anything but detrimental to the overall temps.


Regardless of what you think I(and many many others here as this is post 13117) have tried out many setups with the H50 and now the H70. It depends a lot on your total setup, if your using the H50/70 as intake towards the bottom of your case and you have no where for the warm air to go yes I would think that would be very detrimental to all temps even the CPU once everything got heated up. If your using intake from the back of your case and like my setup your PSU and GPU's are all venting hot air right below where your H50/70 would be pulling air in from again probably not a good setup. Most cases pull in cool air from the front and side and then vent the hot air out the back and top so if you stick with the same design with your H50/70 your keeping the flow as intended so it would stand to reason that either front intake or rear exhaust would be two of the best setups.

I tried mine as rear intake and exhaust before switching to front intake for CPU temps it is the best by far for case temps there is only a ~1c difference between rear exhaust. I have my H50 above another 120mm fan in front of my case so I still get the cooler air from below by my video cards from the other fan and the H50 is aimed right at the rear exhaust fan and the top exhaust. The H50 does blow over my ram but with my side 220mm fan it really doesn't affect the temps at all.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Hmmm maybe you should sell your 555 and use the refund to get 955 BE.









With the price of that coming down, now is a good time to consider it.









~Ceadder










Price isn't an issue, I downgraded from an i7 860 for fun







It's the thrill of the game. Besides, the games game is all about the GPU







. I'll pop an X6 in here when I get bored of it... hopefully later than sooner, as I'm not made of money, even if my PCs look like I am


----------



## Jarvillio

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


Your qualifications aside, the temp increase in the case is minimal in my setup.
The rad intake is mounted high at the front and i have 2 top exhausts @ 140mm that suck out a fair amount of air. I run a ram cooler thingy as well and also have a normal rear exhaust.
The temp increase in the case was 2 degrees.

History and political science aside, my setup works for me.
Can't argue with that really.


I meant those are my major because i don't understand how that works. Not saying i was qualified, just the opposite


----------



## d33r

I just purchased a pair of Scythe Gt-Ap15s 1850rpm fans...now i am still deciding on what i should get the h50 or h70?

and how bulky is the h70 when mounted as a rear exhaust setup? does it hang over the cpu... i really like how the new h70 cpu cooler/badge looks compared to the h50s...but not sure if i am a fan of its bulky radiator..

what should i do?


----------



## shapiror06

I found these hogs at work today. I'm gonna try and find the specs online and see if it's worth rigging them up to my H70.

PAPST TYP 4600 X
115v 60Hz 235mA 20W 120x38mm solid metal construction


----------



## anti_808

Quote:



Originally Posted by *d33r*


I just purchased a pair of Scythe Gt-Ap15s 1850rpm fans...now i am still deciding on what i should get the h50 or h70?

and how bulky is the h70 when mounted as a rear exhaust setup? *does it hang over the cpu*... i really like how the new h70 cpu cooler/badge looks compared to the h50s...but not sure if i am a fan of its bulky radiator..

what should i do?










In my 902, the fans and rads almost hang over the CPU. I like it though, it's really quiet even with the stock fans compared to my old zalman, definitely going to be quiet with AP-15s. Still waiting for Frozencpu to restock on them so I can grab two for my H70.

Only thing I wish is that the pump power cable was longer so I could run it behind my mobo...might have to buy some extensions if they exist


----------



## ca.j.stokes

Shnikees, this thread is huge! I was wondering if anyone has tried out the h50 in a push pull config with a normal 120mm attached to the radiator and a noctua nf-p14 attached to the other side allowing for wider area of air dispersion from the radiator?


----------



## xmisery

Quote:



Originally Posted by *anti_808*


In my 902, the fans and rads almost hang over the CPU. I like it though, it's really quiet even with the stock fans compared to my old zalman, definitely going to be quiet with AP-15s. Still waiting for Frozencpu to restock on them so I can grab two for my H70.

Only thing I wish is that the pump power cable was longer so I could run it behind my mobo...might have to buy some extensions if they exist


You can pick up a pair from PerformancePCs.com and they come sleeved in your choice of color!


----------



## anti_808

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xmisery* 
You can pick up a pair from PerformancePCs.com and they come sleeved in your choice of color!

shipping to hawaii is expensive from sites other than amazon and frozen cpu, else I would've ordered from performancepcs. thanks though!


----------



## xmisery

Quote:


Originally Posted by *anti_808* 
shipping to hawaii is expensive from sites other than amazon and frozen cpu, else I would've ordered from performancepcs. thanks though!

Hmm, I just calculated the S/H to Hawaii for 2 Fans from both sites.. It may not be as bad as you think? A difference of ~$1.00 USD

PerformancePCs.com
- United States Postal Service (1 x 2.00lbs) (Priority Mail (2 - 3 days)) $11.55
FrozenCPU.com
- United States Postal Service (1 x 2.00lbs) (Priority Mail (2 - 3 days)) $10.46


----------



## staryoshi

I can't measure temps, but so far the h50 is holding the PII X2 555 @ 3.84Ghz quad without issue


----------



## Razorwing

Hey guys I got a H70 yesterday.. but I'm having a problem with it.. I keep hearing water drips it's driving me mad...is there a solution to this? or do I have to RMA/exchange it??


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Razorwing* 
Hey guys I got a H70 yesterday.. but I'm having a problem with it.. I keep hearing water drips it's driving me mad...is there a solution to this? or do I have to RMA/exchange it??

 can you clarify as to where you think the sound is coming from exactly?


----------



## Razorwing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
 can you clarify as to where you think the sound is coming from exactly?

I'm not too sure..I just hear it. it's like water dripping. Here's a pic..


----------



## Freaxy

I also have the water dripping sound. I think it's because the tubes are on the top.
I didn't have it when I mounted the H70 with the tubes on the bottom.


----------



## Razorwing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Freaxy* 
I also have the water dripping sound. I think it's because the tubes are on the top.
I didn't have it when I mounted the H70 with the tubes on the bottom.

ah ok I"ll go try that right now! Nice to see another HAFX


----------



## Razorwing

Just another questions guys, is the pull/push config with the fans better as the intake or outtake? I know Corsair recommends it to be a intake.. I just want to know what you guys are doing.


----------



## Probi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Razorwing* 
Just another questions guys, is the pull/push config with the fans better as the intake or outtake? I know Corsair recommends it to be a intake.. I just want to know what you guys are doing.

Well, that's a debate on it's own, there are many variation and to everyone it's different base on their parts and air flow. The case you are using is the biggest concern.

Usually a push/pull exhaust will give you better result but many like me do a pull/push intake front the front and are doing much better. We all had to experiment until we found the right setup. Unless you can find someone with your exact setup it will be hard to tell.


----------



## Probi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *peeinginthepool* 
I have my H70 in a push pull config exhausting out of the top 120mm fan mount in my 800D, ive reversed the rear 140mm fan to act as an intake, helping keep warm air outta my case while providing cool air to the rad/H70.

CooLHandL



















I'm not sure how reversing your back fan as intake will provide cool air for the rad when all it going to do is suck hot air being exhausted from you 2 crossfire card.







You should keep it as an exhaust, you just screwing up you air flow.


----------



## Razorwing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Probi* 
Well, that's a debate on it's own, there are many variation and to everyone it's different base on their parts and air flow. The case you are using is the biggest concern.

Usually a push/pull exhaust will give you better result but many like me do a pull/push intake front the front and are doing much better. We all had to experiment until we found the right setup. Unless you can find someone with your exact setup it will be hard to tell.

I have a Push/Pull Intake(200mm Push|Pull is through a 120mm in the duct). 2 200mm's outtakes up top. Then on the side another 200mm intake. So should I be going intake or out?


----------



## Probi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lightsout* 
Idle is 30 load is 48c. I'm pretty happy with these temps. I could probably squeeze a few more C out of it but at this time I'm happy.

I don't know much about AMD's but it seem like your getting good temp, most of the heat is all about how much Vcore you give your chip, if you need more to stay stable than is the trade off of making your chip hotter, is it that good of a deal.


----------



## Probi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Razorwing* 
I have a Push/Pull Intake(200mm Push|Pull is through a 120mm in the duct). 2 200mm's outtakes up top. Then on the side another 200mm intake. So should I be going intake or out?

Looks like you've got good exhaust in your case, I would try doing a push/pull intake front the front if you can, any hot air pushed in your case should be exhausted easely by those 200mm fan no problems.

Putting your specs in your signature would also help us to try and give you other advises.


----------



## Razorwing

updated my sig..


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Razorwing* 
I have a Push/Pull Intake(200mm Push|Pull is through a 120mm in the duct). 2 200mm's outtakes up top. Then on the side another 200mm intake. So should I be going intake or out?

I tried intake and exhaust and I personally prefer exhaust. Less heat inside the case. And also the graphic card and PSU blow hot air out of the case on the back which rises and gets taken in by the H70.
I so no real temp difference, but the inside case temps were a few degrees lower, which helps my graphic card cooling.


----------



## Probi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Razorwing* 
updated my sig..

Well this is your flow case, by the looks of it the only front intake you have is at your HDD drives and unless you can mod that and you H70 so the tube are long enough to reach you won't make it. If the front 5.25 bay is open and no extra dvd drive and stuff like that, I'm sure you could fit it in. You wouldn't be the first to do it, I'm sure people with the same case could tell you how they did it. If all else fail you can always exhaust at the back.

Attachment 170466


----------



## Razorwing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Probi* 
Well this is your flow case, by the looks of it the only front intake you have is at your HDD drives and unless you can mod that and you H70 so the tube are long enough to reach you won't make it. If the front 5.25 bay is open and no extra dvd drive and stuff like that, I'm sure you could fit it in. You wouldn't be the first to do it, I'm sure people with the same case could tell you how they did it. If all else fail you can always exhaust at the back.


Well technically I have 2 intakes (side panel and front). So right now, I'm going with the H70 as an intake, so intakes from all 3 sides (front, back and side). And Exhaust is from the 2 200's at the top. I am not sure why you are recommending me for another front intake.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Freaxy* 
I tried intake and exhaust and I personally prefer exhaust. Less heat inside the case. And also the graphic card and PSU blow hot air out of the case on the back which rises and gets taken in by the H70.
I so no real temp difference, but the inside case temps were a few degrees lower, which helps my graphic card cooling.

ah ok thanks man.


----------



## Probi

Razorwing said:


> Well technically I have 2 intakes (side panel and front). So right now, I'm going with the H70 as an intake, so intakes from all 3 sides (front, back and side). And Exhaust is from the 2 200's at the top. I am not sure why you are recommending me for another front intake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your side intake is for your GPU so you can't do anything with it, the other intake is at the front were your HDDs are, that won't work either."If" you want to have the rad setup as an intake, then I suggest installing it in your 5.25 bay in the front, as I said before, many before you have done it this way. This way it compliments the air flowin your case were your intake is at the front and side and the exhaust at the back and top. There is not other intake option unless you insist on reversing your back fan to intake instead of exhaust which will suck in the hot air being exhausted from your GPU and PSU.
> 
> If you want to set up you rad as an exhaust then use the fan placement et the back, that will give you the better results.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shapiror06* 
I found these hogs at work today. I'm gonna try and find the specs online and see if it's worth rigging them up to my H70.

PAPST TYP 4600 X
115v 60Hz 235mA 20W 120x38mm solid metal construction










Haha, nice. Only 54 CFM max on those guys but I bet they have some pretty decent static pressure!


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
Haha, nice. Only 54 CFM max on those guys but I bet they have some pretty decent static pressure!

If you don't mind me asking, where did you find that info? I found a data sheet, linked below, that's shows a much higher CFM rating of 106. It also shows a static pressure rating of about .38-.39 inH2O, which is damn good.

http://download.siliconexpert.com/pd...600xseries.pdf


----------



## slimbrady

hmmm cannot find the dang page...just googled the model and read from a similar data sheet...had 36-54 for the CFM.


----------



## Razorwing

Probi said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Razorwing*
> 
> 
> Well technically I have 2 intakes (side panel and front). So right now, I'm going with the H70 as an intake, so intakes from all 3 sides (front, back and side). And Exhaust is from the 2 200's at the top. I am not sure why you are recommending me for another front intake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your side intake is for your GPU so you can't do anything with it, the other intake is at the front were your HDDs are, that won't work either."If" you want to have the rad setup as an intake, then I suggest installing it in your 5.25 bay in the front, as I said before, many before you have done it this way. This way it compliments the air flowin your case were your intake is at the front and side and the exhaust at the back and top. There is not other intake option unless you insist on reversing your back fan to intake instead of exhaust which will suck in the hot air being exhausted from your GPU and PSU.
> 
> If you want to set up you rad as an exhaust then use the fan placement et the back, that will give you the better results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I do have a extra 140 fan.. I wonder if I can just place it hmmm but there's no screw holes.


----------



## Probi

Razorwing said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Probi*
> 
> 
> Well I do have a extra 140 fan.. I wonder if I can just place it hmmm but there's no screw holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people I know that have tried an 140mm fan on the rad did not like it, too much dead spot and more flow noises.
> 
> If you are saying you have a 140mm fan space to mount a 120mm but you have mounting holes, then you would have to be a little creative and mod the case somehow.


----------



## Razorwing

Probi said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Razorwing*
> 
> 
> Most people I know that have tried an 140mm fan on the rad did not like it, too much dead spot and more flow noises.
> 
> If you are saying you have a 140mm fan space to mount a 120mm but you have mounting holes, then you would have to be a little creative and mod the case somehow.
> 
> 
> yeah.. I'm not going to .. not really worth it imo, although everything is running great now since I turned the rad.


----------



## staryoshi

I've got a 1090T incoming, we'll see what it can do at 4Ghz with the P/P H50









How are you liking that P7P55D Pro, Razor? I had the P7P55D-E Pro and I didn't care for it... It did not like my memory and overclocking was a hassle. I do like the layout though.


----------



## Razorwing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *staryoshi*


I've got a 1090T incoming, we'll see what it can do at 4Ghz with the P/P H50









How are you liking that P7P55D Pro, Razor? I had the P7P55D-E Pro and I didn't care for it... It did not like my memory and overclocking was a hassle. I do like the layout though.


It's not bad I guess. I haven't done any OC yet because my last cooler was a stock cooler.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Razorwing*


It's not bad I guess. I haven't done any OC yet because my last cooler was a stock cooler.


Good luck when you finally do try it... Everything about the board looked awesome, except I couldn't get an i3 540 past 3.7Ghz using the H70







It didn't recognize the XMP profile for my memory without changing the BCLK either. Everything about that board is great... at stock


----------



## Razorwing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *staryoshi*


Good luck when you finally do try it... Everything about the board looked awesome, except I couldn't get an i3 540 past 3.7Ghz using the H70







It didn't recognize the XMP profile for my memory without changing the BCLK either. Everything about that board is great... at stock










to be honest man, I've never OC'd before.. first time for everything eh? I was kinda scared to OC with a stock cooler on (I just have a bad feeling that something will screw up) so I waited until I got a better cooler.


----------



## Ceadderman

Don't feel bad, I hate OC'ing with a stock cooler for the very same reasons.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Razorwing* 
to be honest man, I've never OC'd before.. first time for everything eh? I was kinda scared to OC with a stock cooler on (I just have a bad feeling that something will screw up) so I waited until I got a better cooler.


----------



## TehCodehzor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Razorwing* 
Just another questions guys, is the pull/push config with the fans better as the intake or outtake? I know Corsair recommends it to be a intake.. I just want to know what you guys are doing.

I've done P/P intake and exhaust from the back of my HAF 932
Temps were 2-3C lower exhaust.
But i now have it set up exhaust from the top of case which lowered it another 2C


----------



## PTFMWB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TehCodehzor* 
I've done P/P intake and exhaust from the back of my HAF 932
Temps were 2-3C lower exhaust.
But i now have it set up exhaust from the top of case which lowered it another 2C

Hmmm, surprising!







I would expect those last two to be about the same, maybe your overal airflow is working better this way. BTW, did you mount it in the top front or back? If it's front than it could be that the air it's sucking in is slightly cooler (not heated up by MOBO).

Whatever the reason, I just love reading people take another couple of degrees off just by moving fans around! Can't wait to get started on my H50 in Antec P193, should be arriving this week!


----------



## Ceadderman

Remember now heat rises. In the spot where his Radiator is mounted there is little to no heat rising up to the radiator from any place other than the internal flow of the liquid. So the heat is pushed along better going up than on a level plane back to the rear Exhaust point.

Now I cannot prove this bit of speculation, but based on what we know about Heat and the cool air being sucked from the fron 5.25 bays, it makes sense that it would be cooler in that Exhaust setup than at rear mounted Exhaust.









~Ceadder









Quote:


Originally Posted by *PTFMWB* 
Hmmm, surprising!







I would expect those last two to be about the same, maybe your overal airflow is working better this way. BTW, did you mount it in the top front or back? If it's front than it could be that the air it's sucking in is slightly cooler (not heated up by MOBO).

Whatever the reason, I just love reading people take another couple of degrees off just by moving fans around! Can't wait to get started on my H50 in Antec P193, should be arriving this week!


----------



## Zavia

Yeah i really want to try and swap my configuration around as i don't have room for a shroud and a fan in an extraction setup at the rear of my case, I will see if i cant move it around to have a front top mount with extraction, since my idle temps are still to high comparatively. Just have to wait a week to be able to do it since i just got the green light on a house and have to move all my stuff over labor day weekend, Ughh the heats gonna make this a sweaty job. Plus my gf wants to paint right off the bat, because the bathrooms yellow... Oh well c'est la vie


----------



## Razorwing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
Remember now heat rises. In the spot where his Radiator is mounted there is little to no heat rising up to the radiator from any place other than the internal flow of the liquid. So the heat is pushed along better going up than on a level plane back to the rear Exhaust point.

Now I cannot prove this bit of speculation, but based on what we know about Heat and the cool air being sucked from the fron 5.25 bays, it makes sense that it would be cooler in that Exhaust setup than at rear mounted Exhaust.









~Ceadder









That is what I based my theory on. I have 3 intakes(Front,Side and Back) from the case and 2 (200mm) outtakes uptop.


----------



## Probi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zavia* 
Yeah i really want to try and swap my configuration around as i don't have room for a shroud and a fan in an extraction setup at the rear of my case, I will see if i cant move it around to have a front top mount with extraction, since my idle temps are still to high comparatively. Just have to wait a week to be able to do it since i just got the green light on a house and have to move all my stuff over labor day weekend, Ughh the heats gonna make this a sweaty job. Plus my gf wants to paint right off the bat, because the bathrooms yellow... Oh well c'est la vie

Well as you probably know, the 930 idle temparature are around 30-40c depending on your overclock, I'm idling at 38-41c on a 4ghz OC but what is important here is temp under load. My load temps are 70-74c which I am confortable with. I'm going to go for 4.2ghz and try to keep it under 80c load.


----------



## Zavia

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Probi* 
Well as you probably know, the 930 idle temparature are around 30-40c depending on your overclock, I'm idling at 38-41c on a 4ghz OC but what is important here is temp under load. My load temps are 70-74c which I am confortable with. I'm going to go for 4.2ghz and try to keep it under 80c load.

Yeh i run at 67 under load at 3.8Ghz with a 1.28ish vcore, and a 3.55 vtt.

i would just like to see a few more degree's difference at idle since my case will read 28-30 and my cpu still seems to read 40-42 i figure if i get my air just right i should see 5-6 over case temp (which is slightly above my ambient) once i adjust it if i find my flow is better and temps adjust even a bit i will look at setting for a 4.0 stable 24/7 but as it is i want to be 70 or less at load no matter what, since this is my first real baby with really good gear, and i want to keep it around and then be able to pass it on (since i have 6 siblings) if and when i do get a new system in 4-5 years.

Good luck with your endeavor for 4.2Ghz, its always a more challenging time to go over 4 according to the masses, but it should help you hone your skills.


----------



## Probi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zavia* 
Yeh i run at 67 under load at 3.8Ghz with a 1.28ish vcore, and a 3.55 vtt.

i would just like to see a few more degree's difference at idle since my case will read 28-30 and my cpu still seems to read 40-42 i figure if i get my air just right i should see 5-6 over case temp (which is slightly above my ambient) once i adjust it if i find my flow is better and temps adjust even a bit i will look at setting for a 4.0 stable 24/7 but as it is i want to be 70 or less at load no matter what, since this is my first real baby with really good gear, and i want to keep it around and then be able to pass it on (since i have 6 siblings) if and when i do get a new system in 4-5 years.

Yeah, I know what you mean, it depends if you got a good chip or a dud and also how your board OCs, my board is one of the best for OCing so I was able to get 4ghz stable on just 1.23 vcore and didn't even start touching the VTT yet. As far as longevity, I wouldn't be worried, we all say that OCing your parts will shorten their lifespan but as long as you don't feed them to much voltage and you're able to keep then resonably cools, your stuff will last. I've been doing mild to heavy OCs for the past 10 years and I've keep each system for about 4-5 years and then handed them down to family members and such never to hear any problem with them and they still run to this day.

You won't do any harm unless you're blatently stup^% and don't do it properly and in resonable steps.


----------



## Razorwing

Hey guys I got another question, I switched out my 1 of my stock fan (I'm doing intake so it's the fan that is pulling) I switched to a Cooler Master R4. Will I notice any difference in performance? Or is the stock fan better? And I didn't buy it just for a new fan, I had it lying around from my old comp so I might as well use it.


----------



## Probi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Razorwing* 
Hey guys I got another question, I switched out my 1 of my stock fan (I'm doing intake so it's the fan that is pulling) I switched to a Cooler Master R4. Will I notice any difference in performance? Or is the stock fan better?

The R4 have really good pressure which is essential for a rad application, I personally have R4's for push and pull running at 60% and I can't hear them. I just love them. The stock fan is not bad, but there are many fans with better pressure.


----------



## Razorwing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Probi* 
The R4 have really good pressure which is essential for a rad application, I personally have R4's for push and pull running at 60% and I can't hear them. I just love them. The stock fan is not bad, but there are many fans with better pressure.

I guess I do need a fan controller to control adjust the fans right? Or is there another way?


----------



## mastercontrol

Hello,
I added myself to the list and saved but not sure if it worked. Proud owner of H50 as of a couple of months, front drive bay installation as intake with 3 fans and 3 inch shroud. still looking to improve on temps. Loved viewing everyone's posts and pictures. Will add mine.

cheers


----------



## Probi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Razorwing* 
I guess I do need a fan controller to control adjust the fans right? Or is there another way?

Do it in the bios if you can, I'm not familiar with your board but in mind I have to option of putting each fan header on "duty cycle" which sets it up at 60% no matter what. I like doing it this way since I don't have to make room for a fan controller. But many others do the fan controller because they don't have the option in their bios or they don't have enough fan headers on their boards. I happen to have 8 fan headers which is alot so in a sense my board is my fan controller.


----------



## mastercontrol

i did the same thing, only I have 2 fans intaking, a 4 inch shroud made out of a cut-up disc stacker container and then the stock fan; all mounted in 3 drive slots which were unused in my PC.


----------



## metroidfreak

I'll have my i7 857k coming in soon and I'll be using OCZ freeze. Do I apply it the same way as I applied AS5? (i.e. a thing straight line up the middle?)


----------



## Zavia

Since i have still not been able to find thin long zipties, i am gonna just slim down the 8" ones i got and see how they hold. although if i drilled the shrouds out i could use my 4inch ones and connect them in the middle. food for thought.


----------



## Zavia

Quote:


Originally Posted by *metroidfreak* 
I'll have my i7 857k coming in soon and I'll be using OCZ freeze. Do I apply it the same way as I applied AS5? (i.e. a thing straight line up the middle?)

There are a lot of diff methods for applying tim, from what i have seen around here alot of people like the finger covered in cling film (seran wrap) and a gentle rubbed on layer of tim on the cpu. i use this method and then add a rice size little spot right in the middle of the cpu.


----------



## Probi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mastercontrol* 
i did the same thing, only I have 2 fans intaking, a 4 inch shroud made out of a cut-up disc stacker container and the stock fan. all mounted in 3 drive slots which were unused in my PC.

Hum, I like the idea of the of the disk staker container, what thickness did you make it, I know 40mm is about optimal for a shroud, anything over than you start loosing efficiency. Right now I could only make my own out of an old fan which is 25mm thick.


----------



## Razorwing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Probi* 
Do it in the bios if you can, I'm not familiar with your board but in mind I have to option of putting each fan header on "duty cycle" which sets it up at 60% no matter what. I like doing it this way since I don't have to make room for a fan controller. But many others do the fan controller because they don't have the option in their bios or they don't have enough fan headers on their boards. I happen to have 8 fan headers which is alot so in a sense my board is my fan controller.

Seems that I can't do it in my bios.. might need to get a fan controller.. but, I actually moved the R4 for Push.. my case got quieter for sure LOL. Seems that the R4 is pretty loud compared to the Corsair 120's.

Can you guys recommend me any 120mm quiet fans that is worth putting as push/pull for the H70?


----------



## grillinman

Does anybody have any input into mounting an H50 P/P from the "ceiling" of my 690 II Advanced? I think it would be cool to have it there as exhaust blowing out the top but I don't want to damage anything.


----------



## Zavia

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Razorwing*


Seems that I can't do it in my bios.. might need to get a fan controller.. but, I actually moved the R4 for Push.. my case got quieter for sure LOL. Seems that the R4 is pretty loud compared to the Corsair 120's.

Can you guys recommend me any 120mm quiet fans that is worth putting as push/pull for the H70?


The always popular high static pressure quiet running Gentle Typhoon ap-15 is the fan of choice for the H50/70 crowd with discerning taste about sound levels.


----------



## bluedevil

Thinking about getting a H70 since I have about that from my bday cash left.....worth it over my H50?


----------



## Probi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bluedevil*


Thinking about getting a H70 since I have about that from my bday cash left.....worth it over my H50?


If you have the money to get it sure, but with a similar set-up on your H50, it will be hard to get a great improvement in temp, a little yes but not much. H70's rad is thicker and you get another fan but testing results shows that if you have the same setup with the H50, the improvements are not that great.


----------



## Razorwing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zavia*


The always popular high static pressure quiet running Gentle Typhoon ap-15 is the fan of choice for the H50/70 crowd with discerning taste about sound levels.


how about Noctua P12's? or Noctua NF-S12B ? I can't find the Gentle Typhoon in my local listings of computer stores.


----------



## Zavia

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Razorwing*


how about Noctua P12's? or Noctua NF-S12B ? I can't find the Gentle Typhoon in my local listings of computer stores.



this is a good guide to fan comparisons that i enjoyed.
http://www.madshrimps.be/?action=getarticle&articID=936

the noctuas are good fans from what i have heard, the P12 is supposed to be good pressure and low sound due to there 9 fin and trailing edge design. but i don't have any direct comparative info.


----------



## grillinman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bluedevil*


Thinking about getting a H70 since I have about that from my bday cash left.....worth it over my H50?


Get it and then do an H50 mod to cool your 470!









More seriously, I've heard mixed feelings about the H70 being all that much better than the H50.


----------



## Probi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Razorwing*


Seems that I can't do it in my bios.. might need to get a fan controller.. but, I actually moved the R4 for Push.. my case got quieter for sure LOL. Seems that the R4 is pretty loud compared to the Corsair 120's.

Can you guys recommend me any 120mm quiet fans that is worth putting as push/pull for the H70?


You can also look at Sethy's fan list on the first post, always have some good comparison on there.


----------



## Zavia

I like sethys list , but it doesn't list static pressure, only cfm, that list is how i goofed and bought slipslipstreams in the first place... Oh well they are great for top exhausts now anyway.


----------



## Probi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grillinman*


Does anybody have any input into mounting an H50 P/P from the "ceiling" of my 690 II Advanced? I think it would be cool to have it there as exhaust blowing out the top but I don't want to damage anything.


According to the specs, you can and it would seem sensible, heat rises after all. I can't speak from experience because I have the smaller CM 690 and it wont fit up there or at least it doesn't look like it will.

Attachment 170568


----------



## grillinman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Probi*


According to the specs, you can and it would seem sensible, heat rises after all. I can't speak from experience because I have the smaller CM 690 and it wont fit up there or at least it doesn't look like it will.


I know it fits because I did it before but there was a piece of my desk right over the top of it (hot air wasn't going far). I have since removed that piece of desk and am looking to reconfigure.

I'm going to do it and if it looks cool I'll post some pics.


----------



## koven

hey guys, i really need advice on if my temps are normal

i was expecting lower temps w/ the h50..even tho i have it in stock config

i got a 955 c3 running 3.8ghz 1.44v and my idle is around 38 and load is 51


----------



## Zavia

Quote:



Originally Posted by *koven*


hey guys, i really need advice on if my temps are normal

i was expecting lower temps w/ the h50..even tho i have it in stock config

i got a 955 c3 running 3.8ghz 1.44v and my idle is around 38 and load is 51


Your idle seems a bit high for amd, but that's all down to your ambient temp atm as well. and your load temp is well with in limits.


----------



## Silvos00

This might be a bit random, but I see the debate about intake/ exhaust often. When I upgraded from my SOLARIS to my M59, I mounted the rad inside instead of how it was, zip-tied to the outside. This actually brought my temps up. Is it feasible to mount it outside of the case, or perhaps on one of the fan slots on the top of the case?

Edit: Just saw the above post. If I do this, would I then have to use the back of the case as intake, rather than exhaust?


----------



## Saeid

Hey Guys,

Just wanted to share this as a happy intel HSF user!

I bough corsair H70, despite the hardtime installing it by forcing this big radiator into my CoolerMaster CM 690 II, and breaking some of the tall VRM cooler of ASrock x58 extreme3, the temps were very bad....hitting 83C with 100% loaded prime for only 10 minutes and at 30 minutes passed 85 with my i7 930 @ 4.2GHz 1.34v ... I am building my own computers since 10 years I am sure I did everything good...maybe my H70 is bad...something wrong with the contact surface? since the fan spins at 1430rpm and I can hear watter flow if I get near the pump.

BUT the point is a hell of problem with the fan sound, even by using 1 fan on this cooler my computer was about to take off and I could not sleep in my room









Then I came to idea swithing back to intel stock HSF and try overclocking coupled with undervolting!

The result was nice, atleast in my opinion! the good point is I can now sleep in my very own room!!!

With i7 930 @ 4.2GHz I had 1MB of superPi in 10 second, now I have it in 12 seconds...but my games still run as good as 4.2GHz...I think I don't need that huge overclock and apache ah-60 longbow in my room.

So here is a screen shot...the temps are registered after a hour of prime95 blend test while the fan is set to constant 50% that is around 1100 RPM, very quite! I also love my rams corsair DDR3 1600 @ 1700 CL 7 7 7 20 1T 1.69v.



Anyways I ordered a Noiseblocker M12-P and want to try again with H70 soon.


----------



## Probi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Saeid*


Hey Guys,

Just wanted to share this as a happy intel HSF user!

I bough corsair H70, despite the hardtime installing it by forcing this big radiator into my CoolerMaster CM 690 II, and breaking some of the tall VRM cooler of ASrock x58 extreme3, the temps were very bad....hitting 83C with 100% loaded prime for only 10 minutes and at 30 minutes passed 85 with my i7 930 @ 4.2GHz 1.34v ... I am building my own computers since 10 years I am sure I did everything good...maybe my H70 is bad...something wrong with the contact surface? since the fan spins at 1430rpm and I can hear watter flow if I get near the pump.

BUT the point is a hell of problem with the fan sound, even by using 1 fan on this cooler my computer was about to take off and I could not sleep in my room









Then I came to idea swithing back to intel stock HSF and try overclocking coupled with undervolting!

The result was nice, atleast in my opinion! the good point is I can now sleep in my very own room!!!

With i7 930 @ 4.2GHz I had 1MB of superPi in 10 second, now I have it in 12 seconds...but my games still run as good as 4.2GHz...I think I don't need that huge overclock and apache ah-60 longbow in my room.

So here is a screen shot...the temps are registered after a hour of prime95 blend test while the fan is set to constant 50% that is around 1100 RPM, very quite! I also love my rams corsair DDR3 1600 @ 1700 CL 7 7 7 20 1T 1.69v.



Anyways I ordered a Noiseblocker M12-P and want to try again with H70 soon.


Something is not right here, you said you were running at 4.2ghz but everything in your screenshoot show 3.1ghz which is a very small OC, If that's right than your temps under load are to high, you should be in the low 60s if anything.









Don't know if you posted the correct screen shoot but something is not right, the temps you are showing you would get with a 4 to 4.2ghz OC.


----------



## arctia

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Probi*


Something is not right here, you said you were running at 4.2ghz but everything in your screenshoot show 3.1ghz which is a very small OC, If that's right than your temps under load are to high, you should be in the low 60s if anything.









Don't know if you posted the correct screen shoot but something is not right, the temps you are showing you would get with a 4 to 4.2ghz OC.


He meant he had his processor at 4.2ghz, but H70 fans were too loud for him.

So he switched back to intel's stock HSF and only overclocked to 3.1ghz.


----------



## Probi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arctia*


He meant he had his processor at 4.2ghz, but H70 fans were too loud for him.

So he switched back to intel's stock HSF and only overclocked to 3.1ghz.


I still say he is doing something wrong, even with the stock Intel at 3.1ghz he it at one point 78c on one of his cores, that's too hich even for that cooler. That little cooler is really good for a small overclock, you could do about 3.6ghz OC and have the kinds of temps he his getting now. I still say that there is something defenitely wrong here.


----------



## lightsout

I just put a shroud on my push fan. On the H50, didn't seem to really do anything. I wasn't expecting much. I have no pull fan so I think I will lose the shroud and put a pull fan instead, probably see better results.


----------



## Saeid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arctia*


He meant he had his processor at 4.2ghz, but H70 fans were too loud for him.

So he switched back to intel's stock HSF and only overclocked to 3.1ghz.


Yeah that was my point...

I ordered Noiseblocker PWM fan to see if it helps with sound. and going to reseat the H70 in another way...

I noticed the copper base is rectangular, which way is the best to sit over the cpu? does it matters? logo parallel with rams? or tubes parallel with rams? if I am right all 1366 socket motherboards are the same in terms of placing and direction of cpu socket?


----------



## Saeid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Probi*


I still say he is doing something wrong, even with the stock Intel at 3.1ghz he it at one point 78c on one of his cores, that's too hich even for that cooler. That little cooler is really good for a small overclock, you could do about 3.6ghz OC and have the kinds of temps he his getting now. I still say that there is something defenitely wrong here.


hmmm I really want to know what can be wrong







my case has good airflow, I had my Q6600 with Hyper 212 OCed to 3.6GHz @ 1.42v and it never went more than 70 on cores... I use arctic alumina for that and also on this new one.

Any reason for this you may think of guys?


----------



## DogOfWar

Hey guys! second post add me please!! H50 holds me steady at 31C at 4Ghz i5


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Saeid*


hmmm I really want to know what can be wrong







my case has good airflow, I had my Q6600 with Hyper 212 OCed to 3.6GHz @ 1.42v and it never went more than 70 on cores... I use arctic alumina for that and also on this new one.

Any reason for this you may think of guys?


Could be many reasons, as long as you know the pump and fans where running at 100% then the next thing to look at is proper seating on the CPU. Of course obvious things like make sure that the push fan and the pull fans are going the right directions so they aren't blowing towards each other make sure they are both plugged in and spinning, double check your bios make sure it isn't throttling the pump or the fans to a lower rpm.

With the H70 there is an optional wire(s) I know you can add that will lower the rpm of the fans to 1600rpm if the sound is that bad for you and you are going to keep the stock fans.


----------



## pez

Am already on the list, but thought I'd just post a more recent pic







.


----------



## Saeid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Could be many reasons, as long as you know the pump and fans where running at 100% then the next thing to look at is proper seating on the CPU. Of course obvious things like make sure that the push fan and the pull fans are going the right directions so they aren't blowing towards each other make sure they are both plugged in and spinning, double check your bios make sure it isn't throttling the pump or the fans to a lower rpm.

With the H70 there is an optional wire(s) I know you can add that will lower the rpm of the fans to 1600rpm if the sound is that bad for you and you are going to keep the stock fans.


Thanks for reply,

Yeah I am sure that fan directions was correct, pump and fan both at 100% (I beleive the pump cant go higher than 1430 rpm since it was the maximum speed it could go in my case).

Question is about sitting, does it matters how it sits? or the copper base in any case will cover all the cpu? I ask this because it is rectangular instead of being a square.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Saeid*


Thanks for reply,

Yeah I am sure that fan directions was correct, pump and fan both at 100% (I beleive the pump cant go higher than 1430 rpm since it was the maximum speed it could go in my case).

Question is about sitting, does it matters how it sits? or the copper base in any case will cover all the cpu? I ask this because it is rectangular instead of being a square.


Since it was made for all CPU's(or at least all it includes mounting brackets for) then it should obviously fit them all no matter the orientation you have it at.


----------



## d33r

hi guys..i made the plunge into closed commercial water cooling systems and have a h70 with 2 Gt-AP15 1850 fans on the way!









Really excited for it to arrive! but not excited for the install...my mobo tray does not have a big enough opening on the backside to install the mounting plate so as a result i have to remove the entire mobo from my system to get the bracket on the backside for the install..i hope i dont break the mobo in the process..









Also does anyone have an idea of the max speed a h70 can handle? i am currently at 4.0ghz with hyper threading turned off with an air cooler... and do you guys have hyperthreading turned on while using your h50/h70s?









Ill post some pics within the next couple days to week when it is all installed..


----------



## dlee7283

I just installed mine and it was a pain in the A for AM2/AM3.









for some reason you can only tighten the screw to a certain extend or you won't be able to get the block to fit right, then finally you can tighten the screws until they are not loose after you have figured out that the plastic mounts can't be all the way down until that block fits in the way it is suppose to.

More complicated than people claim (took me an hour an a half), but I am just happy it is in there finally. I don't want to have to take it out ever again


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *d33r* 

Also does anyone have an idea of the max speed a h70 can handle? i am currently at 4.0ghz with hyper threading turned off with an air cooler... and do you guys have hyperthreading turned on while using your h50/h70s?









Ill post some pics within the next couple days to week when it is all installed..

Hard to answer a question like that =) Too many variables. Even if someone else can reply with stats on how high they've gotten the same cpu you are using it doesn't mean yours can match it or can't out-do it. Ambient temps and uniqueness of CPU's is going to leave a few degrees/mhz up in the air. I would expect at the very least a 5-10% improvement over your air cooler though.....more if it's not a good one.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dlee7283* 
I just installed mine and it was a pain in the A for AM2/AM3.









for some reason you can only tighten the screw to a certain extend or you won't be able to get the block to fit right, then finally you can tighten the screws until they are not loose after you have figured out that the plastic mounts can't be all the way down until that block fits in the way it is suppose to.

More complicated than people claim (took me an hour an a half), but I am just happy it is in there finally. I don't want to have to take it out ever again

Of course it depends on the style or your case/motherboard tray but I had no trouble mounting mine to my AM3 CPU/motherboard. My tray had the cut out behind the motherboard to put the back clip in so that of course cut down on time cause I didn't have to take it all out. From start to finish counting disconnecting all the wires and reconnecting, taking out the old cooler and cleaning off the old TIM from the CPU and installing the H50 took me 18 minutes the actual install of the H50 was only 3-5 min max. Though I have been working on computers since the first home PC was made though.

I put the back clip on and just barely put the screws in the front mount so they where barely holding it in place and then held up on it while I put it into place and then rotated it where I wanted it while it was held up away from the CPU so it didn't mess with the TIM and then locked it into place and screwed it into place securely.


----------



## Ceadderman

I know that you already have yours mounted but I'm posting this anyway in the off chance that you may have to reseat it. It should make things much simpler for you later on and it's how I fixed the same issue with mine. Asetek really should stop throwing the AMD inserts in with the kit cause they don't work properly.









Use the Intel inserts(the two hole inserts) instead of the AMD set. Then take the screws and thread them through until they spin freely and before the 2nd set of threads catch. Lay the bracket on the metal inserts and give each screw a quarter turn. Once you have this done you should be able to wiggle the lock ring as though it were not attached but not be able to remove it. That should give you enough room to mount it w/o issue.









Oh and I highly recommend mounting the backing plate and ring before mounting the MoBo. The reason is there is no definitive size for the CPU cutout in Cases. And the inserts sometimes pop free if you apply too much downforce when tightening screws. I had the bottom right one come out and it scored the paint in my 932 so bad that it was straight metal to metal contact. That's a problem. But once I performed the above mounting action it was no longer a problem.










~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *dlee7283*


I just installed mine and it was a pain in the A for AM2/AM3.









for some reason you can only tighten the screw to a certain extend or you won't be able to get the block to fit right, then finally you can tighten the screws until they are not loose after you have figured out that the plastic mounts can't be all the way down until that block fits in the way it is suppose to.

More complicated than people claim (took me an hour an a half), but I am just happy it is in there finally. I don't want to have to take it out ever again


----------



## ben h

Quote:



Originally Posted by *d33r*


hi guys..i made the plunge into closed commercial water cooling systems and have a h70 with 2 Gt-AP15 1850 fans on the way!









Really excited for it to arrive! but not excited for the install...my mobo tray does not have a big enough opening on the backside to install the mounting plate so as a result i have to remove the entire mobo from my system to get the bracket on the backside for the install..i hope i dont break the mobo in the process..









Also does anyone have an idea of the max speed a h70 can handle? i am currently at 4.0ghz with hyper threading turned off with an air cooler... and do you guys have hyperthreading turned on while using your h50/h70s?









Ill post some pics within the next couple days to week when it is all installed..


im sitting at 4ghz with ht on with my h50 p/p works perfectly fine
h70 p/p should do even better


----------



## Ceadderman

H70 will do better but not that much if you set up H50 like most everyone here has it set up. The average temp difference is ~4c if I were to use the same fans from the H70 kit in P/P with a shroud.

This is based on what I've seen other people(sorry don't remember who it was here) reported as their results moving from H50 to H70. Until Corsair officially moves away from H50 or lowers the price of H70, I wouldn't spend the money on H70. That or unless the pump is too tall on the H50 to fit between the Radiator and the MoBo. Some Cases are too thin and require something with a limited amount of depth. H70 would be the best option in that regard. However, $60 is much better than $100+ imho.









~Ceadder









Quote:



Originally Posted by *ben h*


im sitting at 4ghz with ht on with my h50 p/p works perfectly fine
h70 p/p should do even better


----------



## ben h

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ceadderman* 
H70 will do better but not that much if you set up H50 like most everyone here has it set up. The average temp difference is ~4c if I were to use the same fans from the H70 kit in P/P with a shroud.

This is based on what I've seen other people(sorry don't remember who it was here) reported as their results moving from H50 to H70. Until Corsair officially moves away from H50 or lowers the price of H70, I wouldn't spend the money on H70. That or unless the pump is too tall on the H50 to fit between the Radiator and the MoBo. Some Cases are too thin and require something with a limited amount of depth. H70 would be the best option in that regard. However, $60 is much better than $100+ imho.









~Ceadder









ya i havnt read to many comparisons between them but thats all? wow not realy worth that much more
and ya with a shroud on the push side i have to have the pull fan on the out side of my case other wise it would hit


----------



## Probi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


I just put a shroud on my push fan. On the H50, didn't seem to really do anything. I wasn't expecting much. I have no pull fan so I think I will lose the shroud and put a pull fan instead, probably see better results.


You should see more improvement in sound rather than tempsbut you should get a couple degrees improvement.


----------



## Probi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DogOfWar*


Hey guys! second post add me please!! H50 holds me steady at 31C at 4Ghz i5


You add yourself in, it a google spread sheet.


----------



## Probi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Saeid*


Thanks for reply,

Yeah I am sure that fan directions was correct, pump and fan both at 100% (I beleive the pump cant go higher than 1430 rpm since it was the maximum speed it could go in my case).

Question is about sitting, does it matters how it sits? or the copper base in any case will cover all the cpu? I ask this because it is rectangular instead of being a square.


The bottom plate on the H50 is bigger than all cpu's you would use so the direction won't affect it, I think it's more a question of having your pump sitting properly on the cpu, if one side is tighter than the other than more contact is done on one side and proper cooling is not applied to your entire cpu.

It could be that your cpu of pump plate is not flat and not making proper contact, you could try lapping your cpu and pump but i would find out first if that is really the problem.

What tim are you using, does it require a long curing time, I am limited as to what I can get but I found MX-3 to work really well with no curing time, just a couple of heat cycles.


----------



## shapiror06

Here's a couple shots of my build/mod. I modded my Antec 300 case so I could mount my H70 as an exhaust, with the radiator and the pull fan outside of the case. I didn't install it the default way, so I can't really compare temps. There's not much slack left in the tubing, so I would venture to say that not every case/mobo combination can support this with the H70. It may be possible with the H50 however, I'm told it has longer tubing.

Sorry for the crappy picture quality, all I had handy was my cell phone.


----------



## Probi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shapiror06*


Here's a couple shots of my build/mod. I modded my Antec 300 case so I could mount my H70 as an exhaust, with the radiator and the pull fan outside of the case. I didn't install it the default way, so I can't really compare temps. There's not much slack left in the tubing, so I would venture to say that not every case/mobo combination can support this with the H70. It may be possible with the H50 however, I'm told it has longer tubing.

Sorry for the crappy picture quality, all I had handy was my cell phone.











Looks pretty good, couple of suggestions, you could try and seat the pump in a different alignment to lessen the stress on the hose or flip the rad 90 degrees so the line are on the side and not the bottom.

What about testing? Have you got any temps?


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Probi*


Looks pretty good, couple of suggestions, you could try and seat the pump in a different alignment to lessen the stress on the hose or flip the rad 90 degrees so the line are on the side and not the bottom.

What about testing? Have you got any temps?


I thought about turning the block just as I was posting those pictures, but I don't want to have to reapply the thermal paste.

I was running my i7 940 OC'd to 3.8GHz around 69C at full load, I'm still tweaking my OC.

I also have some complementary SilenX IXP-76-18 and IXP-74-14 fans that I will be reviewing for SilenX with the H70. I'm excited to see how that goes, they are some of the absolute quietest fans out there right now. I really want to see how their 120x38mm fans perform.


----------



## Zavia

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shapiror06*


Here's a couple shots of my build/mod. I modded my Antec 300 case so I could mount my H70 as an exhaust, with the radiator and the pull fan outside of the case. I didn't install it the default way, so I can't really compare temps. There's not much slack left in the tubing, so I would venture to say that not every case/mobo combination can support this with the H70. It may be possible with the H50 however, I'm told it has longer tubing.

Sorry for the crappy picture quality, all I had handy was my cell phone.











Looks good, i may do this to my case at some point to get the exhaust mount i want.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hmmmm







, looks pretty good. Couldn't tell if you had any kinks in your hoses the way you have it set up. Doesn't look like there is anything wrong with it though. If there isn't too much pull on the hoses mounted in that way I wouldn't sweat the small stuff.









~Ceadder


----------



## Zavia

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shapiror06*


I thought about turning the block just as I was posting those pictures, but I don't want to have to reapply the thermal paste.

I was running my i7 940 OC'd to 3.8GHz around 69C at full load, I'm still tweaking my OC.

I also have some complementary SilenX IXP-76-18 and IXP-74-14 fans that I will be reviewing for SilenX with the H70. I'm excited to see how that goes, they are some of the absolute quietest fans out there right now. I really want to see how their 120x38mm fans perform.



Hmm those fans have a really wide spread, they may move air but i'm betting they are not high static pressure.


----------



## Probi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zavia*


Hmm those fans have a really wide spread, they may move air but i'm betting they are not high static pressure.










Just like Zavia says, those fans are more for cfm and being silent, you should however still have a nice static pressure. You never know, you might be pleasantly suprised.


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Probi*


Just like Zavia says, those fans are more for cfm and being silent, you should however still have a nice static pressure. You never know, you might be pleasantly suprised.










It's not costing me anything, so I'm testing it just to see how it goes! Since they have such a wide spread, maybe I'll disassemble an old 120mm fan I have and test them with and without a shroud.


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Hmmmm







, looks pretty good. Couldn't tell if you had any kinks in your hoses the way you have it set up. Doesn't look like there is anything wrong with it though. If there isn't too much pull on the hoses mounted in that way I wouldn't sweat the small stuff.









~Ceadder










Nah, no kinks. I wanted to mount it as exhaust, and I didn't want that big radiator and 2 fans inside my case. Plus it's fun to get out the saw every once and a while


----------



## Razorwing

Hey guys so fan wise.. how about the Zalman ZM-F3 for the rad? I've heard really good things about it.. I'm not sure about the Static Pressure though.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Razorwing* 
Hey guys so fan wise.. how about the Zalman ZM-F3 for the rad? I've heard really good things about it.. I'm not sure about the Static Pressure though.

The nominal fan rotation speed is 1800 (Â±180) RPM. It creates 73.17CFM airflow and 2.17mmH2O static pressure generating about 32dBA of noise. However if you use the bundled adapter with a built-in resistor, you can drop the fan rotation speed to 1100 (Â±110) RPM respectively reducing the airflow to 40.65CFM, static pressure to 0.67mmH2O and noise to 20dBA.


----------



## shapiror06

I personally cant figure out why everybody thinks the GTs are the best fans out there. They only produce 2.06mmH2O static pressure, which really isn't all that high. Corsair does not have the static pressure data for the fans included with the H70, but I'm betting it's in a similar range to the GTs. There are a lot more fans out there with static pressure in the ~5mmH2O range that aren't all that much louder.


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dlee7283* 
I just installed mine and it was a pain in the A for AM2/AM3.









for some reason you can only tighten the screw to a certain extend or you won't be able to get the block to fit right, then finally you can tighten the screws until they are not loose after you have figured out that the plastic mounts can't be all the way down until that block fits in the way it is suppose to.

More complicated than people claim (took me an hour an a half), but I am just happy it is in there finally. I don't want to have to take it out ever again

Didn't have that problem personally and it certainly didn't take an hour and a half!
Maybe you read the instructions upside down









Quote:


Originally Posted by *shapiror06* 
I personally cant figure out why everybody thinks the GTs are the best fans out there. They only produce 2.06mmH2O static pressure, which really isn't all that high. Corsair does not have the static pressure data for the fans included with the H70, but I'm betting it's in a similar range to the GTs. There are a lot more fans out there with static pressure in the ~5mmH2O range that aren't all that much louder.

Which ones? Do share


----------



## Buttnose

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Razorwing* 
Hey guys so fan wise.. how about the Zalman ZM-F3 for the rad? I've heard really good things about it.. I'm not sure about the Static Pressure though.

Works fine for me, doesn't go above 75c on IBT load @ 1.45v 3.6ghz oc. Stuck at stock atm though because of Corsair sending me dodgy RAM after a rma. Will repost temps later using my working ram.


----------



## Razorwing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Buttnose* 
Works fine for me, doesn't go above 75c on IBT load @ 1.45v 3.6ghz oc. Stuck at stock atm though because of Corsair sending me dodgy RAM after a rma. Will repost temps later using my working ram.

So if I should get it.. I should get two to replace both Corsair fans right? Right now I have an R4 and the stock Fan..

@Carfanatic : Ah ok, so it does come with the resistor..


----------



## Buttnose

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Razorwing* 
So if I should get it.. I should get two to replace both Corsair fans right? Right now I have an R4 and the stock Fan..

@Carfanatic : Ah ok, so it does come with the resistor..

Whatever you replace on the rad you should get two of the same fan for push/pull.

Ehume's review of both the R4/F3 on push/pull on a megahalems.
http://www.overclock.net/9232186-post9.html
http://www.overclock.net/9232313-post35.html

The ZM-F3s seem to be ~3dba quieter for ~2c difference in temps. Personally I prefer lower noise to slightly lower temps. The tests were done at 12v though so perhaps the R4 outperform the F3s for noise at lower voltages.

If you don't want a random led casefan floating around it would probably look nicer to get a second R4.

Don't write off the stock H50 fans though, I was suprised at how much air they push when I first got mine. They're certainly not bad fans.


----------



## Razorwing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Buttnose* 
Whatever you replace on the rad you should get two of the same fan for push/pull.

Ehume's review of both the R4/F3 on push/pull on a megahalems.
http://www.overclock.net/9232186-post9.html
http://www.overclock.net/9232313-post35.html

The ZM-F3s seem to be ~3dba quieter for ~2c difference in temps. Personally I prefer lower noise to slightly lower temps. The tests were done at 12v though so perhaps the R4 outperform the F3s for noise at lower voltages.

If you don't want a random led casefan floating around it would probably look nicer to get a second R4.

Don't write off the stock H50 fans though, I was suprised at how much air they push when I first got mine. They're certainly not bad fans.

I actually did put the R4 on the pull and it was loud! so I moved it to push. Are the ZM-F3s better overall? I currently don't have a fan controller and the Bios doesn't have the fan control.


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *digital_steve* 
Which ones? Do share

My first and easiest example is an Antec TriCool. This was easiest for me to find because they came already installed in my Antec Three Hundred case. Here are the specs right from the owner's manual:

2000 RPM | 0.24A | 79 CFM | 2.54 mmH2O | 30 dBa | 2.9 W

I'll look around for some more.


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shapiror06*


My first and easiest example is an Antec TriCool. This was easiest for me to find because they came already installed in my Antec Three Hundred case. Here are the specs right from the owner's manual:

2000 RPM | 0.24A | 79 CFM | 2.54 mmH2O | 30 dBa | 2.9 W

I'll look around for some more.


Just browsed through Delta's datasheets. Here's a few more for reference:

Delta AFB1212L - 1900 RPM | 62.93 CFM | 3.93 mmH2O | 32.5 dB-A
Delta AFB1212M - 2200 RPM | 73.84 CFM | 5.15 mmH2O | 35.5 dB-A
Delta AFB1212LE - 2000 RPM | 71.27 CFM | 4.22 mmH20 | 32.5 db-A

I'll keep looking...


----------



## kennady

1st is average, 2nd is low 3rd is high.

This is what the H50 is doing for me after 2 hours of folding. Ambient is about 68 and I'm using the Antec tricool from the case on intake. No OC, stock 3.4
I did replace the TIM with IC Diamond.


----------



## Yukyuklee

Hi I just joined today... Here's my H50 push\\pull


----------



## Razorwing

So I did some research, it's either Nexus D12SL-12 or Zalman ZM-F3... which one should I pick up for the P/P? or should I just get another CM R4? hmmm..


----------



## Ceadderman

Ya-ates ya-ates ya-ates ya-ates....









~Ceadder


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Ya-ates ya-ates ya-ates ya-ates....









~Ceadder










That's a funny way to spell Gentle Typhoon


----------



## Ceadderman

Well there are Ts' in there. I can see how you could confuse the two.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Razorwing*


So I did some research, it's either Nexus D12SL-12 or Zalman ZM-F3... which one should I pick up for the P/P? or should I just get another CM R4? hmmm..


R4's are notoriously known for bad quality control and even if you get a good one their life is very low not worth the $. Nexus and Zalman I don't know a lot about but for the prices I found for them I would go Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-15 over either. If you want great price vs performance and either don't care about noise or plan on controlling the rpm then get yates high speed or medium like ceddar said.


----------



## Zavia

Had trouble finding static pressure stats for my panaflo's, and since they are highly rated amongst the oc crowd i though i would find some info and post it here to help the fan issue a little.

Model = FBA12G12U1BX 
0.313 in H20 (7.95 mmh20)
114cfm
45.5 dB
2750rpm
7.0 ~ 13.8VDC

I have them hooked up to a nzxt sentry and they run great at 40%. you can definitely hear them so its no for the sound level snobs (j/k) but i don't even notice them when i'm playing games or watching shows even at a reasonable level. and that's with the machine sitting 2 feet from me.
Panaflo Fan Data Sheet


----------



## Razorwing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Ya-ates ya-ates ya-ates ya-ates....









~Ceadder










According to the review, the Nexus is a rebadged Yates fan. Is that what you mean?

http://www.overclock.net/9232226-post18.html]http://www.overclock.net/9232226-post18.html

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


R4's are notoriously known for bad quality control and even if you get a good one their life is very low not worth the $. Nexus and Zalman I don't know a lot about but for the prices I found for them I would go Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-15 over either. If you want great price vs performance and either don't care about noise or plan on controlling the rpm then get yates high speed or medium like ceddar said.


What's with everyone and the GT's? It is out of stock everywhere. (retail wise).


----------



## Jarvillio

Is the 120mm that comes with the H50 any good? I've been planning on getting some gentle typhoon for p/p


----------



## Zavia

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jarvillio*


Is the 120mm that comes with the H50 any good? I've been planning on getting some gentle typhoon for p/p


The stock corsair fan is not bad but its not great either, most people oc'ing replace it, and do a p/p config with a shroud.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zavia*


The stock corsair fan is not bad but its not great either, most people oc'ing replace it, and do a p/p config with a shroud.


I tried a shroud and I tried p/p. not at the same time but separately. Honestly I didn't see much of a difference at all. I did see my NB temp go up a little bit because it blocked the air flow from my side panel fans onto the NB.

I'm back to one fan and happy with it. Your mileage may vary.


----------



## Saeid

using i7 930 batch A826 I am stable at (200x20) 4.0GHz @ 1.312v while I barely changed any voltage of the motherboard...just one step higher for all other voltages. ASrock x58 extreme3 I guess does not need too much voltage for overclocking. and its stable at 4GHz until I hit 90C and I stop the test.

the only problems is heat! using Corsair H70 with a single fan, my temps at idle are like 43-37-44-36 but as soon as I run prime in less than 5 seconds the cores jump to 77-75-76-75 and after some minutes it up to 90. and I can feel the radiator is hot. I am sure I have installed the block correctly.

is there any chance that my H70 is defunct? or should I add the other fan also?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Saeid* 
using i7 930 batch A826 I am stable at (200x20) 4.0GHz @ 1.312v while I barely changed any voltage of the motherboard...just one step higher for all other voltages. ASrock x58 extreme3 I guess does not need too much voltage for overclocking. and its stable at 4GHz until I hit 90C and I stop the test.

the only problems is heat! using Corsair H70 with a single fan, my temps at idle are like 43-37-44-36 but as soon as I run prime in less than 5 seconds the cores jump to 77-75-76-75 and after some minutes it up to 90. and I can feel the radiator is hot. I am sure I have installed the block correctly.

is there any chance that my H70 is defunct? or should I add the other fan also?

The H70 comes with two fans are you sure that you don't mean the H50?

If you are using the H50 you should definitely get/have two matched fans for push/pull. Recommended fans from many here are Yate Loon high speed/medium speed or Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-15 fans. The yates are are louder but cheap and work great for what you spend on them the GT's are more expensive but very quiet.


----------



## Saeid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
The H70 comes with two fans are you sure that you don't mean the H50?

If you are using the H50 you should definitely get/have two matched fans for push/pull. Recommended fans from many here are Yate Loon high speed/medium speed or Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-15 fans. The yates are are louder but cheap and work great for what you spend on them the GT's are more expensive but very quiet.

Thanks for reply.

Well yeah thats a H70 I got but due to noise I just use one fan, and not the default fan. I am using Noiseblocker M12-P that comes with PWM.

The mysteri is my temps just jump from 40 idle to 80 in few seconds and hits 90 in a matter of minutes.

I wonder if someone has tried H70 with a single fan?


----------



## sstnt

The H70 radiator is about twice as thick as the H50. It takes a lot of pressure to push the air through the radiator, so I would think your problem is that your 1 fan just can't push enough air through it to take away the heat, so it is building up really quickly. You've GOT to put another (matched) fan on that radiator! If the noise is too much, use the included adaptors that limit the fan speed.


----------



## staryoshi

This PII X6 1090T is scary awesome. Just installed it and got some prelim temps before overclocking... Reference clocks Turbo enabled here's where my setup sits









Ambient temp 23.5C, temperature topped out at 31-32C across all cores @ stock clocks.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *staryoshi*


This PII X6 1090T is scary awesome. Just installed it and got some prelim temps before overclocking... Reference clocks Turbo enabled here's where my setup sits









Ambient temp 23.5C, temperature topped out at 31-32C across all cores @ stock clocks.


Coretemp is no good for AMD, you should use HWmonitor or PC Probe from Asus is great since you have an Asus mobo.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


Coretemp is no good for AMD, you should use HWmonitor or PC Probe from Asus is great since you have an Asus mobo.


Yeah, that's why I had everest up too (which isn't great either). (I know it'll be like +10C with the "real" temp)I'm in the process of DLing probe even though I've never cared for it, darn Asus website has always been so slow







Would have used Overdrive but it's not compatible with my chipset. I mean, I always assume with AMD procs that it's understating my temps, but it's still very solid


----------



## Razorwing

So I ended up getting the Zalmans.. it's pretty sweet.







Got them both for $10. flat.


----------



## staryoshi

New temps. Only raising the multiplier (Bios voltage 1.425v software monitor 1.34v) @ 3.8Ghz with a 24C ambient I'm hitting 40C core temps (Everest) and 52C CPU temp (PC Probe). Not too bad, I'll see how it handles a FSB boost vs a multiplier bump later.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *staryoshi*


New temps. Only raising the multiplier (Bios voltage 1.425v software monitor 1.34v) @ 3.8Ghz with a 24C ambient I'm hitting 40C core temps (Everest) and 52C CPU temp (PC Probe). Not too bad, I'll see how it handles a FSB boost vs a multiplier bump later.


Yah the 52c is what you want to be looking at, all the rest is bs.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


Yah the 52c is what you want to be looking at, all the rest is bs.


This I know, Sout-san!







I'm going to work my magic on it, though, don't you worry.


----------



## shapiror06

I just hit 4GHz w/ my i7 940 and my H70 w/ Antec TriCool fans installed. Pretty awesome! I tried this before with my old air cooler and got nowhere close.

I have no idea what the ambient temperature is in my room, but it's pretty warm. I turned my window a/c unit on and my load temps dropped from ~80C to ~70C lol


----------



## Mygaffer

Well I had the H50 and I recently upgraded to the H70. My temps did go down by around 3-5C. 
Right now I'm at my summer clock, 3.66Ghz, and my temps w/H70 are:
idle:38C 
load:68C
those being the hottest cores. I am using two GentleTyphoon-15 fans in push pull at full speed.

Ambients are around 70-80F here right now. I have Hyper-Threading on.

My question, are these good temps for the H70? Are they good temps in general?


----------



## koven

hitting 4ghz on my 955 c3... temps are 33/55

will try some occt/p95 next, before going any further


----------



## Santorican

Got my computer all set up! Unfortunately now I'm not sure but it doesn't want to stay on and in about 1 min it just shuts off


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Santorican* 
Got my computer all set up! Unfortunately now I'm not sure but it doesn't want to stay on and in about 1 min it just shuts off









Does your mobo have a Clear CMOS button, either on the board itself or on the back I/O panel? If it does, shut the system down, and hold that button for a few seconds, then try booting.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Santorican* 
Got my computer all set up! Unfortunately now I'm not sure but it doesn't want to stay on and in about 1 min it just shuts off









If it is powering on and booting into windows your BIOS settings are probably ok. It's most likely overheating....careful man, you cleaned off the old TIM on your cpu before putting your new cooler and have made sure it is seated correctly and pump is hooked up ya?


----------



## Silvos00

If it boots for 1 minute, you can quickly go into the HW monitor in the BIOS and see what the temps are.


----------



## Saeid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Santorican* 
Got my computer all set up! Unfortunately now I'm not sure but it doesn't want to stay on and in about 1 min it just shuts off









Did you plugg in the pump connector into 3pin mainboard header?

Could be it...if you did so check if that header is not disabled or have been set to lower speed in the bios.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Does seem like a safety measure perhaps due to overheating. Like above maybe check the hardware monitor within BIOS and see what the the temps are on the cpu.
If ofc some extremely high temps, you know thats ure issue and you probably havent reseated the cooler properly.


----------



## FlAwLeSS_666

Well I guess it's time I join since I just did pick up a H70


----------



## anti_808

Just moderately upped my system to 3.5 @ 1.28V

Highest core at idle is 39, 60 while running Prime, with stock fans and running as an intake. I got some GT AP-15s on order, and I'm going to flip it around to exhaust when they come in, will report my new temps sometime next week when they get here, and I get around to putting them in!


----------



## Razorwing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FlAwLeSS_666*


Well I guess it's time I join since I just did pick up a H70










did you pick it up @ NCIX for $99?


----------



## Mygaffer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Santorican*


Got my computer all set up! Unfortunately now I'm not sure but it doesn't want to stay on and in about 1 min it just shuts off










Sounds like overheating. Is everything plugged in, ie the fans, pump, and is the pump/waterblock installed correctly and making good contact with the cpu?


----------



## FlAwLeSS_666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Razorwing*


did you pick it up @ NCIX for $99?










Nope, Canada computers had a pricing mistake (listed on their website for $119.99 and the H50 at $89.99) walked in and the H70 was listed at 89.99 with a $10 MIR so I argued with the manager of the store for about an hour about how it isn't my fault the store listed a price wrong, got on the phone with their head office and everything, and said they couldn't match $99.99, so I ended up getting it for $104.99 minus a $10 MIR


----------



## Razorwing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FlAwLeSS_666*


Nope, Canada computers had a pricing mistake (listed on their website for $119.99 and the H50 at $89.99) walked in and the H70 was listed at 89.99 with a $10 MIR so I argued with the manager of the store for about an hour about how it isn't my fault the store listed a price wrong, got on the phone with their head office and everything, and said they couldn't match $99.99, so I ended up getting it for $104.99 minus a $10 MIR










bummmer, I got mine for $99 + MIR for $10.


----------



## FlAwLeSS_666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Razorwing*


bummmer, I got mine for $99 + MIR for $10.










No, it's all good, I really got it for $94.99 because of the MIR


----------



## Razorwing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FlAwLeSS_666*


No, it's all good, I really got it for $94.99 because of the MIR










not bad.. lol. then it's $89 for me for MIR







lol. Well I've been really enjoying it.. low temps and all


----------



## thiagocosta85

Hey guys, By any chance, would it be a better idea to connect the H70 to a Peripheral connector rather than the Fan Plug of the mother board? ... Slice wire, Yellow + Black? ... I dont know why, But that's how I want to do it, I dont know why,for some reason it makes me less nervous.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thiagocosta85* 









Hey guys, By any chance, would it be a better idea to connect the H70 to a Peripheral connector rather than the Fan Plug of the mother board? ... Slice wire, Yellow + Black? ... I dont know why, But that's how I want to do it, I dont know why,for some reason it makes me less nervous.

any alteration to the h50/h70 will render your warranty void, so its up to you


----------



## thiagocosta85

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
any alteration to the h50/h70 will render your warranty void, so its up to you

Ahhhh ! ... never mind ! .... Do you know the official website for that cooler? ...
I want to read the section where it says they will cover my system if it leaks... I am so affraid of it... I am about to buy the Noctua NH-d14 and grind the edges of it.


----------



## reaper~

First report of leak/broken H70. Let's hope this doesn't become a trend.


----------



## FlAwLeSS_666

Oh, that's not good, hope this doesn't happen to me (Knocks on wood)


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *reaper~* 
First report of leak/broken H70. Let's hope this doesn't become a trend.

Why am i not suprised








When i 1st saw those fittings i said hell no


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *reaper~* 
First report of leak/broken H70. Let's hope this doesn't become a trend.

buuuuu :/

he should have taken pictures of his build... went it was leaked inside

I wanted to see that


----------



## OverSightX

Nice rigs everyone. I would like to be added. Push/Pull exhausting through the top.


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FlAwLeSS_666* 
Oh, that's not good, hope this doesn't happen to me (Knocks on wood)

Same here.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
Why am i not suprised








When i 1st saw those fittings i said hell no

I have the very same fittings in my rig right now.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
he should have taken pictures of his build... went it was leaked inside
I wanted to see that









I think he mentioned that he was going to take some more pics afterward.


----------



## Razorwing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *reaper~* 
First report of leak/broken H70. Let's hope this doesn't become a trend.

I guess also how he was handling the unit as well. When I installed mine, I was holding it by the rad.. I've seen some people hold it by the pump.. I had a feeling it will break when it is handled like that.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Razorwing* 
I guess also how he was handling the unit as well. When I installed mine, I was holding it by the rad.. I've seen some people hold it by the pump.. I had a feeling it will break when it is handled like that.

I watched a video of a corsair rep taking the H-50 and swinging it around as hard as he could while holding the pump in his hand, then hooked it up n/p. I was hoping the H70 is built to similar standards.


----------



## thiagocosta85

Quote:


Originally Posted by *reaper~* 
First report of leak/broken H70. Let's hope this doesn't become a trend.

WOW !.... I have been looking for this the whole weekend,,, I only found 1 case like this for the H50 Model...

I mean...

For Real?... I have been thinking SOOOO hard, trying to stay away from water... And the Noctua NH-D14 will hit my memory's heatsink...

What should I do?

1) Grind Noctua NH-14 with an Auto Shop's Grinder / Cutting Disk?
2) Just buy the H70, It is safe, that accident was rare?
3) You dont need to overclock YET, Just leave your system w stock fan?

What do I do guys?...
Give me a light !...

I just LOVE the temperature benchmark on tomshardware that I got from the H50 / H70 ... So Nice.
Also, the liquid inside the H70, Will NOT cause a short? ... If not, I will simply set the emergency CPU shutdown to 53C.

Thank you man.

By the way, how many H70's were sold so far? You know an AVG? ... Because 1 out of 200 would not be too scary. But 1 out of 50, would.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *reaper~* 
Same here.

I have the very same fittings in my rig right now.









I think he mentioned that he was going to take some more pics afterward.

I meant while the H70 was mounted... he already posted He cleaned it up & dismantled the whole system... he didn't take pictures before it


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *reaper~* 
I have the very same fittings in my rig right now.









Everybody with an H70 has the same fittings.

I personally think the tubing on the H70 is too stiff. I think it puts unnecessary pressure on the fittings on the block/pump. I was thinking about taking the tubing off and replacing it with longer and more flexible tubing.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thiagocosta85* 
WOW !.... I have been looking for this the whole weekend,,, I only found 1 case like this for the H50 Model...

I mean...

For Real?... I have been thinking SOOOO hard, trying to stay away from water... And the Noctua NH-D14 will hit my memory's heatsink...

What should I do?

1) Grind Noctua NH-14 with an Auto Shop's Grinder / Cutting Disk?
2) Just buy the H70, It is safe, that accident was rare?
3) You dont need to overclock YET, Just leave your system w stock fan?

What do I do guys?...
Give me a light !...

I just LOVE the temperature benchmark on tomshardware that I got from the H50 / H70 ... So Nice.
Also, the liquid inside the H70, Will NOT cause a short? ... If not, I will simply set the emergency CPU shutdown to 53C.

Thank you man.

By the way, how many H70's were sold so far? You know an AVG? ... Because 1 out of 200 would not be too scary. But 1 out of 50, would.

What Rams do you have?
I have no problem with my Noctua on the same mobo we both have lol
But it does cover the entire Ram slots :/ its goddamn hugeeeeee

Just read the FAQ, on which it shows the measurements: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=f...s_id=34&lng=en

To who ever says the H70 or H50 cools better than a stock Noctua go and grow a waffle because it does not(all those reviews you've seen of the H70 are Fake)... even if adding better fans, 2 shrouds & thermal paste.. only way to get close to it is by modding it with Res or lapping CPU & heatsink... and if you do that mod... with a Noctua just change the fans, thermal paste & 3 shrouds on the Noctua and it would woop it even more

Now... I would suggest you to get the H70 but treat it nicely... cools good enough(better than a H50), its a space saver, looks great in a computer & duhhhh won't even get close to your rams lol


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 

To who ever says the H70 or H50 cools better than a stock Noctua go and grow a waffle because it does not(all those reviews you've seen of the H70 are Fake)... even if adding better fans, 2 shrouds & thermal paste.. only way to get close to it is by modding it with Res or lapping CPU & heatsink... and if you do that mod... with a Noctua just change the fans, thermal paste & 3 shrouds on the Noctua and it would woop it even more

My room has no air conditioning and I have pretty high ambients so how the heck can air, which has a direct correlation to ambients, cool my cpu more effectively than water? =)


----------



## thiagocosta85

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
What Rams do you have?
I have no problem with my Noctua on the same mobo we both have lol
But it does cover the entire Ram slots :/ its goddamn hugeeeeee

Just read the FAQ, on which it shows the measurements: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=f...s_id=34&lng=en

To who ever says the H70 or H50 cools better than a stock Noctua go and grow a waffle because it does not(all those reviews you've seen of the H70 are Fake)... even if adding better fans, 2 shrouds & thermal paste.. only way to get close to it is by modding it with Res or lapping CPU & heatsink... and if you do that mod... with a Noctua just change the fans, thermal paste & 3 shrouds on the Noctua and it would woop it even more

Now... I would suggest you to get the H70 but treat it nicely... cools good enough(better than a H50), its a space saver, looks great in a computer & duhhhh won't even get close to your rams lol


This is the memory I have... the NOCTUA webste has a LIST of all MB's supported, which I saw our gd70 is supported... Also they have a LIST of all ddr3 supported, and Mine is one of the ones with the RED X..

Let me show you which memory I have:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231355

The heatsinks are Huge... I really really really love air cooling, rather than water cooling, but this time, since I am looking for an extra overclock(i want to see fire) I really need the temps down, knowing that I cannot afford infinite liquid helium, nor infinite liquid hydrogen. :/

But yeah, I am with you.. LOVE NH-D14 .... But I think I might be able to use my cutting disk at the shop to trim it off, or maybe trim the RAM's heatsink off... Only problem is I want my RAM to do 2000MHZ + ... atleast 1900Mhz


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
My room has no air conditioning and I have pretty high ambients so how the heck can air, which has a direct correlation to ambients, cool my cpu more effectively than water? =)

It is impossible for Air to cool better than Water, especially at higher ambient temperatures. I don't care if the reviews for the H70 are claimed to be fake, water will ALWAYS cool better than air. Simple laws of chemistry and physics:

Thermal Conductivity of Air @ 25C is 0.024W/mK
Thermal Conductivity of Water @ 25C is 0.58W/mK

Thus, water has a much higher ability to carry heat, and it is less affected by ambient temperature.

Also, the water in the H70 is not just plain old H2O. It has other properties that raise it's thermal conductivity even further.

Would you ever run just plain H2O in the cooling system of a car, heck no!

IF the NH-14 performs better than the H70, it is NOT just the fact that it is Air vs Water. It has to do with heatsink material and the smoothness of that surface, the types and static pressures of fans, types of TIM, and a countless number of other factors.

Source: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/th...ity-d_429.html


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
My room has no air conditioning and I have pretty high ambients so how the heck can air, which has a direct correlation to ambients, cool my cpu more effectively than water? =)

Look at where I live before you comment, which is above 90F 24/7

I have an H50 have tested: 2 shrouds, 2 good fans(AP15, Panaflo, CMR4, Corsair, XL2 NB), Shin-Etsu x23, G751, AS5, MX-3 & MX-2 and I know more than enough how much it can cool with an Ambient of 90f compared to a Noctua


----------



## thiagocosta85

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
Look at where I live before you comment, which is above 90F 24/7

I have an H50 have tested: 2 shrouds, 2 good fans(AP15, Panaflo, CMR4, Corsair, XL2 NB), Shin-Etsu x23, G751, AS5, MX-3 & MX-2 and I know more than enough how much it can cool with an Ambient of 90f compared to a Noctua


I wish we all could simply make ALL games compatible with Linux...

My pc at IDLE with linux (the amd athlon 64 fx-32) 34C
My pc at IDLE with WINXP (the amd athlon 64 fx-32) 52C

And thats with a huge copper cooler and a BIG walmart window fan blowing directly at the whole board(lol).

Linux is so light.But yeah, that Noctua man... Makes the CPU look like a V12 Ferrari motor. I didn;t know about its existance untill I came to this forum !.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thiagocosta85* 
I wish we all could simply make ALL games compatible with Linux...

My pc at IDLE with linux (the amd athlon 64 fx-32) 34C
My pc at IDLE with WINXP (the amd athlon 64 fx-32) 52C

And thats with a huge copper cooler and a BIG walmart window fan blowing directly at the whole board(lol).

Linux is so light.But yeah, that Noctua man... Makes the CPU look like a V12 Ferrari motor. I didn;t know about its existance untill I came to this forum !.


Don't worry but at all honesty like I said before in my first post reply at the end.. go with the H70 since you already posted the ram you have... and its better since its a space saver, cools good enough & will not touch or reach your rams

Only way I would say for you to get the Noctua is if you did not have that ram lol


----------



## thiagocosta85

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
Don't worry but at all honesty like I said before in my first post reply at the end.. go with the H70 since you already posted the ram you have... and its better since its a space saver, cools good enough & will not touch or reach your rams

Only way I would say for you to get the Noctua is if you did not have that ram lol

Yeah.. thx for the advice bro....

I mean the H70 is cheaper than the noctua so Yeah...
But I operate a cutting disk almost everyday cutting and welding quarter panels etc... U think the Noctua will cool more than the H70? ... I will be more than happy to slice a piece of it off









I wish I could afford both, so that I could see myself... but...

I have a question...

A Amd Phenom II x4 c3 at 3.7~4.0 GHZ, what would the avg temp be with the h70?

What about the same CPU at stock frequency (3.2)?

thx bro.


----------



## sendblink23

Read back a few pages... people have posted their temps on 4ghz with an H70

forget about the Noctua on your setup.... you cut it you degrade its purpose (plus its not only cutting, you'll have to put the 2nd fan Higher that its meant to... which will degrade your cooling between the heatsinks fins as well)


----------



## Crazy^^Red

There wont be much difference between the Nochtua, Megahelams, v6 or whatever heat-pipe based coolers.

If you want a maintainance free,Extremely light weight, cool looking, taste of WC-ing, More airflow, more space in your system, then h50 hands down.


----------



## thiagocosta85

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Crazy^^Red* 
There wont be much difference between the Nochtua, Megahelams, v6 or whatever heat-pipe based coolers.

If you want a maintainance free,Extremely light weight, cool looking, taste of WC-ing, More airflow, more space in your system, then h50 hands down.

Thanks man,
Where can I find the WC-ing? I googled it, no success. I will defnately look at it


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thiagocosta85* 
Thanks man,
Where can I find the WC-ing? I googled it, no success. I will defnately look at it

hmmm WC-ing = WATER COOLING


----------



## Garanthor

I asked this before but the question was quickly "drowned out" by all the other posts so I'm asking again........Does anyone have temperature comparisons between the H50 and H70 using a AMD 965 C3? I'm trying to decide if I should upgrade my H50 to the H70. Thanks.


----------



## thiagocosta85

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
I asked this before but the question was quickly "drowned out" by all the other posts so I'm asking again........Does anyone have temperature comparisons between the H50 and H70 using a AMD 965 C3? I'm trying to decide if I should upgrade my H50 to the H70. Thanks.









http://www.maximumpc.com/article/rev..._system_review

I found that article, If you roll down the page a little, there is a simple benchmark done... Maybe that will give you a close idea?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
hmmm WC-ing = WATER COOLING









Hahaha I'm sorry, I didn't recognize that abreviation untill now.







Thank you


----------



## kcuestag

Hey guys!

I have a question for you!

This are my 2 fans being used on push/pull:

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/...WM::11333.html

They give pretty nice airflow.

I just found here in Germany a pair of Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM and I am wondering if they are worth it over these Noiseblockers? I really like them, but are they better for H50 than those noiseblockers?

Thanks


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Hey guys!

I have a question for you!

This are my 2 fans being used on push/pull:

http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/...WM::11333.html

They give pretty nice airflow.

I just found here in Germany a pair of Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM and I am wondering if they are worth it over these Noiseblockers? I really like them, but are they better for H50 than those noiseblockers?

Thanks

I don't speak or read any other languages aside from English, so I don't know much of what what was on that page, but do you know the rated static pressure of your current fans?

Edit:
If your M12-P is anything like the M12-S1 or M12-S2, they have <1mmH2O static pressure, meaning the 1850RPM GentleTyphoons at 2.06mmH2O static pressure will be much better at pushing cool air through your radiator and in turn cooling your CPU.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shapiror06* 
I don't speak or read any other languages aside from English, so I don't know much of what what was on that page, but do you know the rated static pressure of your current fans?

It states it here:

http://verdisreviews.com/reviews/noi...series-review/


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shapiror06* 
I don't speak or read any other languages aside from English, so I don't know much of what what was on that page, but do you know the rated static pressure of your current fans?

Edit:
If your M12-P is anything like the M12-S1 or M12-S2, they have <1mmH2O static pressure, meaning the 1850RPM GentleTyphoons at 2.06mmH2O static pressure will be much better at pushing cool air through your radiator and in turn cooling your CPU.

According to eBaY:

http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/NoiseBlocker-...-/130382207456


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
According to eBaY:

http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/NoiseBlocker-...-/130382207456



Wow!! I change my answer then! Your noiseblockers should do better. Here's the official datasheet:

http://www.noiseblocker.de/PDF/data_m12_103_de.pdf


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shapiror06* 
Wow!! I change my answer then! Your noiseblockers should do better. Here's the official datasheet:

http://www.noiseblocker.de/PDF/data_m12_103_de.pdf

Wow, I didn't know these noiseblockers were that good









Anyways I'm still going to order the gentle typhoon 1850rpm I think to replace my top 230mm stock fan which is only 800rpm and also the front fan, and put the 4th one near the PSU









Should be way better airflow than stock fans right?


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Wow, I didn't know these noiseblockers were that good









Anyways I'm still going to order the gentle typhoon 1850rpm I think to replace my top 230mm stock fan which is only 800rpm and also the front fan, and put the 4th one near the PSU









Should be way better airflow than stock fans right?

Sounds good to me. Make the one on top and by the psu exhaust, while the one in fron an intake and you should be good to go!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shapiror06* 
Sounds good to me. Make the one on top and by the psu exhaust, while the one in fron an intake and you should be good to go!

Yeah top exhaust, front intake, but near PSU also intake, so the airflow goes up and back.


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kcuestag* 
Yeah top exhaust, front intake, but near PSU also intake, so the airflow goes up and back.

Ahh, you must have a case with a top-mount PSU. Mine's a bottom mount so it doesn't pull air that direction. My PSU pulls air into the case.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shapiror06* 
Ahh, you must have a case with a top-mount PSU. Mine's a bottom mount so it doesn't pull air that direction. My PSU pulls air into the case.

I got HAF 932, and PSU pulls air from the floor into the PSU, but that air doesn't get into the case


----------



## sstnt

Anybody had to pull an H50 off of their board? I just did, to replace it with an H70. Now I'd like to put the H50 in another system, but when I pulled the plastic back plate off the back, those sticky foam insulator things that go on it got ripped to shreds. What would you suggest I replace them with? Any ideas? Needs to be able to handle the heat, as well as provide some shock absorbtion I guess.


----------



## thiagocosta85

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sstnt* 
Anybody had to pull an H50 off of their board? I just did, to replace it with an H70. Now I'd like to put the H50 in another system, but when I pulled the plastic back plate off the back, those sticky foam insulator things that go on it got ripped to shreds. What would you suggest I replace them with? Any ideas? Needs to be able to handle the heat, as well as provide some shock absorbtion I guess.


Yeah, you can call ANY autobody supply store at your region, and ask them about a 3M Double Sided Tape.

Thats what you're talking about right?

You can find it in stock at any auto body supply... but they will sell you a BIG ROLL, and it costs about 15-25 dollars. there are different thicknesses and width...

I work with that tape ALOT to reglu Auto Door Mouldings etc. Great Tape


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sstnt* 
Anybody had to pull an H50 off of their board? I just did, to replace it with an H70. Now I'd like to put the H50 in another system, but when I pulled the plastic back plate off the back, those sticky foam insulator things that go on it got ripped to shreds. What would you suggest I replace them with? Any ideas? Needs to be able to handle the heat, as well as provide some shock absorbtion I guess.

I didn't even use the adhesive. You don't need it. It just holds the backing plate in place while you're installing the board in the case. If you're crafty, you can work around it.


----------



## thiagocosta85

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shapiror06* 
I didn't even use the adhesive. You don't need it. It just holds the backing plate in place while you're installing the board in the case. If you're crafty, you can work around it.


True that, I wouldn't bother buying that tape... I would jst Hold it with 1 hand, and get 1 screw through...

Or, using some (low sticky tapes) just to temporarely hold it...


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thiagocosta85* 
True that, I wouldn't bother buying that tape... I would jst Hold it with 1 hand, and get 1 screw through...

Or, using some (low sticky tapes) just to temporarely hold it...

That's what I did. You can install the backing plate and the retainer ring with the board out of the case, by threading the screws half way in so the ring still has some play in it, but it's holding the backing plate in place.


----------



## thiagocosta85

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-CkTVY2GzUU





This guy installs it with out a tape, he even lets the bracket behind the bord fall by accident because no tape.


----------



## sstnt

Thanks, guys! I was wondering if there was some reason (vibration? heat?) to put it on besides just it holds the backplate in place.


----------



## ccatt1994

hey i will join and upload some pics soon... but i want to know if the person with the i7 930 which batch you had oced to 4.6
_ : : The Official Corsair H50/H70 Hydro Series Club : : _


----------



## TehCodehzor

Yea, I had no problem installing my h50 without using the tape that came with it. Just put a really thin book under half my case to make it lean a bit so it wouldn't fall out before installing the pump to it.


----------



## JFuss

I finally got an H50, its on a push pull setup intake from the back.
I haven't got any pics atm but you probably wouldn't want to see it cramped as hell in my 900









Will post pics once i have an Obsidian....it'll be awhile though.


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ccatt1994* 
hey i will join and upload some pics soon... but i want to know if the person with the i7 930 which batch you had oced to 4.6
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/612436-corsair-h50-hydro-series-owners-club.html#post7690988







: : The Official Corsair H50/H70 Hydro Series Club : :










I'm curious about this too. I'm swapping out my 940 C0 for a 930 D0 soon.


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ccatt1994* 
hey i will join and upload some pics soon... but i want to know if the person with the i7 930 which batch you had oced to 4.6
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/612436-corsair-h50-hydro-series-owners-club.html#post7690988







: : The Official Corsair H50/H70 Hydro Series Club : :










I've taken the batch guide located here and I've condensed it down to just the 930s.


----------



## Kyushu

Is installing the h70 in the top right roof 120mm fan slot in the haf 932 a good setup? Exhaust or intake either way..


----------



## Davidsen

Finally got my H50 today, as well the Phenom II X2 550 & a 500GB Barracuda, and the mounting is half-way done.

One question though.
Should i have the fans of the H50 blow air into the case on Push/Pull, or out of the case?


----------



## TehCodehzor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Davidsen* 
Finally got my H50 today, as well the Phenom II X2 550 & a 500GB Barracuda, and the mounting is half-way done.

One question though.
Should i have the fans of the H50 blow air into the case on Push/Pull, or out of the case?

Thats something you'll have to play with.
I saw a 2 - 3c drop when i did P/P out of the case


----------



## Infinitegrim

Quick question for you guys. I can get the H5 for $80, or the H70 on sale for $92. If this is being used on my e7200 overclocked to 4.2Ghz, would there be a difference in the two?


----------



## fafner

Almost certainly yes. Exactly how much is pretty much a crapshoot. But for only $12 more why not go with the H-70?

fafner


----------



## Zavia

If you can fit it in with no problem and you have enough length on the tubes and things i would say go for the h70, just because its a bigger radiator and worth an extra 12bucks, some people here are upgrading there h50's to h70's , so if it came donw to right off the bat picking id day just do it.


----------



## Infinitegrim

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zavia* 
If you can fit it in with no problem and you have enough length on the tubes and things i would say go for the h70, just because its a bigger radiator and worth an extra 12bucks, some people here are upgrading there h50's to h70's , so if it came donw to right off the bat picking id day just do it.









My fear is that my build has always been a budget build. And I'm afraid that with my e7200 I can get the same cooling performance with a $50-60 frio or tuniq extreme air coolers.


----------



## clubfoot

An air cooler big enough to cool 4.0GHz is going to be pretty heavy and hanging off the cpu and motherboard...it will cool but,...the H50/70 is so elegant for what it does,...and if you're lucky you maybe able to run lower voltages for the same overclock


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *clubfoot* 
An air cooler big enough to cool 4.0GHz is going to be pretty heavy and hanging off the cpu and motherboard...it will cool but,...the H50/70 is so elegant for what it does,...and if you're lucky you maybe able to run lower voltages for the same overclock









Sorry bro.. but that is not correct at all on an H50 which is not Real Custom Full Water Cooling <--- that is on where lower voltage does stable higher clocks
It is basically the same voltage on an H50/H70 & any good air cooling to stable your same overclock - unless you change to another motherboard & your CPU getting overheat issues


----------



## ca.j.stokes

hey is the radiator supposed to get a little toasty under load? because i have a push pull config with an enermax apollish vegas connected to an adaptor. it moves about 90 cfm while the fan thats attached to the other side of the rad does about 60. the enermax has a remote to lower the speed but even with the dial in the middle it still gets hot when i play =(

could someone please help me out?


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ca.j.stokes* 
hey is the radiator supposed to get a little toasty under load? because i have a push pull config with an enermax apollish vegas connected to an adaptor. it moves about 90 cfm while the fan thats attached to the other side of the rad does about 60. the enermax has a remote to lower the speed but even with the dial in the middle it still gets hot when i play =(

could someone please help me out?

I'm curious about this as well...i upgraded from the H50 and never really noticed a burning hot radiator with that one....but then again i probably bumped into it less than I bump into the h70's. Still though my rad has been getting verrrry hot when my cpu gets above 50c and while that seems somewhat logical to me I'm just not sure if it's normal as this is my first foray into w/c.


----------



## ca.j.stokes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
I'm curious about this as well...i upgraded from the H50 and never really noticed a burning hot radiator with that one....but then again i probably bumped into it less than I bump into the h70's. Still though my rad has been getting verrrry hot when my cpu gets above 50c and while that seems somewhat logical to me I'm just not sure if it's normal as this is my first foray into w/c.

is there also hot air coming out of the vents where the push fan is?


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


Sorry bro.. but that is not correct at all on an H50 which is not Real Custom Full Water Cooling <--- that is on where lower voltage does stable higher clocks
It is basically the same voltage on an H50/H70 & any good air cooling to stable your same overclock - unless you change to another motherboard & your CPU getting overheat issues


How 'bout we agree to disagree,...I ran my H50 on my Q6600 and was able to do the same clock at lower voltages and the same with my Q9400,...it could be the lower case temps, NB, SB, MB and PWR temps I don't know, but what I do know is that's what happened in my case. Every computer setup is different YMMV.


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *clubfoot* 
How 'bout we agree to disagree,...I ran my H50 on my Q6600 and was able to do the same clock at lower voltages and the same with my Q9400,...it could be the lower case temps, NB, SB, MB and PWR temps I don't know, but what I do know is that's what happened in my case. Every computer setup is different YMMV.

I agree with you. Everybody keeps saying it's not "real" water cooling. If I had a 120mm radiator, 2 fans, a water pump and water block, and some tubing, I'd have a "real" water cooling setup.

Wait. . .

Isn't that what the H50 and H70 are? A radiator, some fans, a water pump and water block, and some tubing?

Just because it comes already assembled doesn't mean it's not "real" water cooling.


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shapiror06*


I agree with you. Everybody keeps saying it's not "real" water cooling. If I had a 120mm radiator, 2 fans, a water pump and water block, and some tubing, I'd have a "real" water cooling setup.

Wait. . .

Isn't that what the H50 and H70 are? A radiator, some fans, a water pump and water block, and some tubing?

Just because it comes already assembled doesn't mean it's not "real" water cooling.











Glad to know someone else is on the same page. Of course we know the BIG stuff should work allot better especially when cooling additional components like video, north bridge,...etc. but for just cooling a cpu, it's great







If you can move the heat to a big enough cooled rad, it will do much better,...BTW I'm not talking crazy overclocks/benching only,..24/7 stuff.


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *clubfoot* 
Glad to know someone else is on the same page. Of course we know the BIG stuff should work allot better especially when cooling additional components like video, north bridge,...etc. but for just cooling a cpu, it's great







If you can move the heat to a big enough cooled rad, it will do much better,...BTW I'm not talking crazy overclocks/benching only,..24/7 stuff.

Yep. I currently have my i7 940 overclocked to 3.8GHz for a solid 24/7 overclock, that's all I was ever interested in. I priced out a CPU only water cooling system and it was well over $200. Not worth it for what I need. My $92 H70 does fantastic!


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ca.j.stokes*


is there also hot air coming out of the vents where the push fan is?


Not sure exactly what you're getting at or what you mean but I have set as a front intake taking up a few drive bays. The fans are both push/pull moving air through the radiator in the same direction and not flipped towards each other if that's what you're worried about. From there I have the H70 with shrouds/fans on both sides slightly angled up to hit my top mounted PSU and exhaust through it's fan and the excalibur fan directly above it at the top.

Hope that answers your question and you can possibly help me narrow down my mistakes if there are some to be corrected. Thanks.


----------



## Infinitegrim

Alright I ordered the H70. I have a feeling its going to be HUGE in my case. DOes it work ok with only one fan pushing as exhaust?

Or has anyone tried running it external on the top or back of the case?


----------



## chatch15117

http://www.overclock.net/intel-gener...l#post10621833


----------



## Infinitegrim

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chatch15117*


http://www.overclock.net/intel-gener...l#post10621833


Maybe I'm expecting too much, but 80C! Damn I have my mobo set to shut down if the CPU reaches 80C.

Since when were these temps considered acceptable? Is there a difference in core 2 duo and i7? Or has the mindset in the last 2 years change?


----------



## chatch15117

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Infinitegrim*


Maybe I'm expecting too much, but 80C! Damn I have my mobo set to shut down if the CPU reaches 80C.

Since when were these temps considered acceptable? Is there a difference in core 2 duo and i7? Or has the mindset in the last 2 years change?


tjmax on i7 is 100C. You're supposed to keep it below 85 but this isn't my rig lol. I just built it for a friend and he insists on more GHz even if it takes a few years off the cpu life.

HT is off also







. I just randomly set 1.375v to start off so it could probably do it at 1.344v... but why waste time when it's not my computer and these settings work anyways. He's just using it for facebook and e-mail


----------



## PTFMWB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chatch15117* 
tjmax on i7 is 100C. You're supposed to keep it below 85 but this isn't my rig lol. I just built it for a friend and he insists on more GHz even if it takes a few years off the cpu life.

HT is off also







. I just randomly set 1.375v to start off so it could probably do it at 1.344v... but why waste time when it's not my computer and these settings work anyways. He's just using it for facebook and e-mail

Just for facebook and E-mail!??! Your friend is a bit silly isn't he?

By the way, wanted to let you guys know I just got my H50 in last weekend, had some trouble installing it in the P193, have it as push/pulll exhaust in the back where it was getting in the way of the 200 mm Big Boy fan.

Remounted the Big Boy on the outside of the sidepanel with zipties, just untill I have time to go to a hardware store next weekend and get some proper screws and washers. Will post some pics later this week, maybe tonight (EU time)

Also, the ASRock X58 Extreme3 Mobo I'm using has a very high Northbridge cooler with fan, that prevented me from mounting the big push/pull combination. Had to take the fan off and bent the heatsink a bit to make it fit, so all in all, it's been taking a bit longer than I hoped for, but it's getting there.

Ready to run some benchmarks tonight and then start overclocking to really see the impact on temps.


----------



## A+2AMD

Spec:
AMD Phenom II X4 955 @ 3.8Ghz| Corsair H50 CPU Cooler (Push/Pull) Dual 120mm Fans| Corsair Dominator 1600Mhz DDR3 Dual Channel @ 1600Mhz (8GB)| Corsair HX850W 850 Watt Modular PSU| Cooler Master CM690 Basic Case| MSi NF750-G55 Motherboard| EVGA Geforce GTX 480 Reference Card OC'd (mV1.138/core790/shade1580/mem2050)| 3 WD Cavier Black 32MBCache 3.0Gbps (750GB+500GB+500GB RAID 0)1.36TB | Lite On 24X DVD Burner SATA III|

Pictures:


----------



## Saeid

Guys I am thinking of modding my H70, but I want to ask experts if H70 pump is able to handle adding a reservior, and if extra cooling liquid going to help for better performance?


----------



## jerryt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Saeid* 
Guys I am thinking of modding my H70, but I want to ask experts if H70 pump is able to handle adding a reservior, and if extra cooling liquid going to help for better performance?

_*Coolant volume and a reservior are not going to increase cooling*_ (Edit) This statement appears to be incorrect with a number of people reporting an increase in cooling after adding a reservior. My theory would be that extra coolant fills the radiator more completely.

but these will;
*More air flow*, either by stronger fans or using fan shrouds to remove the dead spot in the center of the fans.

*Cooler air*, outside air drawn in.

*More radiator area*, combine multiple radiators.

I would like to see someone mod the H70 by adding a GPU water block...


----------



## Bigspender

This thread is bananas over 1 million views and 13k posts wow I guess its time to sell my megahalems and try an H50.


----------



## Joeteck

1334 posts to read through... Which is better? H50 or the H70? Does not look like many own it over the H50.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Joeteck* 
1334 posts to read through... Which is better? H50 or the H70? Does not look like many own it over the H50.

the cost difference is to much.... at the moment.

If you dont have either get the H70.. is it worth the $$ to go from the H50 to the H70...no....


----------



## MicahFett

Finishing up build atm. Installed H70 as rear exhaust but w/ a shroud and both fans (only one shroud on push side) it's a monster in the case. I ended up mounting pull fan on the outside of the case and the rest of the setup on the inside, sealing the gaps with that double-sided foam tape (which is impossible to remove cleanly after about an hour of setting I've found out).

Waiting on windows 7 to arrive this weekend so that I can get the setup running for the first time.

I'll post pics and some baseline temps next week i'm hoping.


----------



## thiagocosta85

My h70 HAS ARRIVED 2 hours ago, when I get out of work I will install it, and see how it goes...









I will let you guys know the new TEMP...

My Stock cooler stays at 48's-53's ... I hope I can get some 34's with the h70... Otherwise I will buy the NH-D14 and cut it with a cutting disk , and check it out.


----------



## BenReclused

Hi guys,

Man! This thead just "keeps on keepin' on"! I sure as Hell can't keep up with it!

@Reaper:
I'm sorry I didn't acknowledge your welcome to this forum sooner. I only found it as I was getting ready to tear my system down for the H70 install (and other mods.). I'm sure you understand... Thank you!

@A+2AMD:
I built an AM3 system, with a Phenom II 965, for a friend last November. He doesn't know it, but it got wet because I was drooling all over it!

Nice build!

@Everyone:
I knew before I ordered the H70, that it wouldn't mount inside my "Armour Jr." case. I also had my doubts about the H50 as well, but thanks to the many fine contributors of this select club, I was able to formulate a plan for my latest "butcher job".

I built this system almost four years ago, so I have had a lot of time to think...

Now that the job is complete (Yeah! Right! The VelociRaptor should be here Friday, and I just thought of a good use for 3 "pots", with black knobs, on an old computer out in the shop.), I have no doubt that the H70 install is the, single, best improvement I could have ever made. I can finally get the old 6400+ "cranking". I did a little more than "just" install the H70, but quite honestly: I'm tickled *****less!!!

Anyway... I didn't intend to bore you with words... I meant to use pictures... :

See ya, Milt


----------



## Enphenate

So finally after about a month of having the H70 (got it the day it came out) i finally have reached some good satisfying results for an external exhaust setup.

Originally i was going to set it up as an intake coming from a CM 4in3 device, but due to my ram hight that didint work out. I tried it as intake from the back fan for a few days and results were nice, nothing amazing though at stock i7 930 speeds. I later switched it to exhaust from the top back fan which would reach about 68C at 3.8ghz full load.

Yesterday i decided to clean off the stock TIM and replace it with a little dab of Shin-Etsu, and reposition the H70, as well as putting it back again as exhaust from the back instead of exhaust from the top. I also added a shroud.

Right now im at 4ghz (HT off) and the max temp i have reached is 62C (this is during the day here in california)

Excuse the mess i havent had a chance to redo the wires yet (just got SLI







)

















I can probably further tweak it a little, i made sure all the pump settings and fan controls are 100% etc. Im going to try to push for 4.2ghz and see how it works out


----------



## thiagocosta85

WOW!!!!

This H70 is AWESOME... I overclocked the CPU to 3.8, The NB to 2400
And the CPU TEMP is 37 DEGREES !!!

37C at IDLE,
44C at SCII
47C MAX at 3DMark06

!!! I love my H70 !!!
Thanks to this forum I realized how good the H70 is...
I put some pics there.

Thank you guys.


----------



## skuzzzzy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thiagocosta85*


WOW!!!!

This H70 is AWESOME... I overclocked the CPU to 3.8, The NB to 2400
And the CPU TEMP is 37 DEGREES !!!

37C at IDLE,
44C at SCII
47C MAX at 3DMark06

!!! I love my H70 !!!
Thanks to this forum I realized how good the H70 is...
I put some pics there.

Thank you guys.



you should do some cable management


----------



## thiagocosta85

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skuzzzzy*


you should do some cable management


Yeahh... I completelly agree with u man...
I did a messy job


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thiagocosta85*


WOW!!!!

This H70 is AWESOME... I overclocked the CPU to 3.8, The NB to 2400
And the CPU TEMP is 37 DEGREES !!!

37C at IDLE,
44C at SCII
47C MAX at 3DMark06

!!! I love my H70 !!!
Thanks to this forum I realized how good the H70 is...
I put some pics there.

Thank you guys.


You should then try running LinX 20 passes with the button "ALL" pressed that will show the true max load temps - if you were to have 8gb of ram, its about 2hrs 30min that stress burning test.

So that will help you know your actual max temps quicker - it burns much more than Prime95


----------



## skuzzzzy

i have my own thread for the matter, but im also going to post here for all you h50-h70 owners to see.

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/1904/sam0473.jpg
http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/1253/sam0474.jpg
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/3144/sam0469.jpg

does my h70 look like yours when you get out of the box, really dont want to rma but if you agree it looks like it may leak / get bad temps due to the bends in the fins please let me know, thanks.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skuzzzzy*


i have my own thread for the matter, but im also going to post here for all you h50-h70 owners to see.

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/1904/sam0473.jpg
http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/1253/sam0474.jpg
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/3144/sam0469.jpg

does my h70 look like yours when you get out of the box, really dont want to rma but if you agree it looks like it may leak / get bad temps due to the bends in the fins please let me know, thanks.


That appears to be *really used allot*... or something... its really odd judging from the 1st picture


----------



## skuzzzzy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


That appears to be *really used allot*... or something... its really odd judging from the 1st picture


it does, theres marks all over its matte finish/missing paint. that doesnt bother me, the fins/tubing is only parts that bother me.

it still has factory paste on it and the box came sealed in plastic.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skuzzzzy*


it does, theres marks all over its matte finish/missing paint. that doesnt bother me, the fins/tubing is only parts that bother me.

it still has factory paste on it and the box came sealed in plastic.


BRO the first PICTURE is the fins that are Bent.. not the side pictures

Bent fins matters allot... Air Flow wont pass as its meant to


----------



## thiagocosta85

Don't worry, inspect for leaks, if no leaks, get a THIN PLASTIC hard tool, unbend the RADIATOR fins...

Make sure you DO NOT cause a leak, thats why you use PLASTIC not METAL.

I do that alot on CAR's radiators (rocks, bugs, etc)

Obviously the AIR FLOW of that unit will not be 100% compared to a new one, but will atleast be about 92% or more after you use a PLASTIC HARD TOOL to unbend the fins.

Good luck bro, jst watch out for any leaks please,


----------



## FlAwLeSS_666

Yeah those fins look bad, and I'd RMA it right away!

btw first post on page 1337!


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thiagocosta85*


Don't worry, inspect for leaks, if no leaks, get a THIN PLASTIC hard tool, unbend the RADIATOR fins...

Make sure you DO NOT cause a leak, thats why you use PLASTIC not METAL.

I do that alot on CAR's radiators (rocks, bugs, etc)

Obviously the AIR FLOW of that unit will not be 100% compared to a new one, but will atleast be about 92% or more after you use a PLASTIC HARD TOOL to unbend the fins.

Good luck bro, jst watch out for any leaks please,


He said it came out of the box like that./.. if I werre him I won't do anything with it and return it... get an exchange RMA because that is messed up you buy it new it came like an Abused used H70... unless he bought it used.. then What you have recommended is exactly what he should do then.

Anyways buddy are going to test what I replied to you a bit above? So that you can get your max load temps.. use HwMonitor to monitor all the temps & post a screenshot of the test done with Hwmonitor next to it


----------



## thiagocosta85

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


He said it came out of the box like that./.. if I werre him I won't do anything with it and return it... get an exchange RMA because that is messed up you buy it new it came like an Abused used H70... unless he bought it used.. then What you have recommended is exactly what he should do then.

Anyways buddy are going to test what I replied to you a bit above? So that you can get your max load temps.. use HwMonitor to monitor all the temps & post a screenshot of the test done with Hwmonitor next to it



Ohhhhhhh !!!!

I thought he bought a USED UNIT...
Never mind if he bought it NEW he should defnatelly call the company...

And YES







Right before I sleep I am going to leave that program running.. u said 2 hours 30 mins right?

I hope I am still alive when I wake up because, the PC is right next to my BED, so if it explodes I am like,... right there lol.

Thx bro, I will test it see what happens.


----------



## skuzzzzy

its new unused. just wanted to try to avoid rmaing since i get my ram on friday, could finally put my build together. i didnt know the fins were as bad as they were. i thought it was just that one on the left messed up?

i emailed a guy on corsair hoping i can get them to send a h70 then i send mine to let me build sooner.


----------



## dude120

Hahaha, page 1337.
I wrote about doing a mod a while ago. I basically got a pvc pipe and and tied and sealed off a fan on one end to suck air in, the radiator on the other end, and then I put the a pulling fan on the other side of the radiator. So far temps are about 3c cooler, but its kinda ugly. (Basically a giant shroud)


----------



## anti_808

Just got my AP-15s in. Love how quiet they are VS. the stock ones, can't even hear my computer anymore, yay. Temps are -maybe- 1 degree cooler.


----------



## Infinitegrim

I cannot wait to get my H70. I'm hitting 70-75C with my e7200 at 4.12ghz!


----------



## thiagocosta85

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Infinitegrim* 
I cannot wait to get my H70. I'm hitting 70-75C with my e7200 at 4.12ghz!


Let me tell you !
It works like a charm ~!

I downloaded crysis + 64bit NO CD file,...

and, the game was running at 174 ~ 194 FPS .
I set the settings to VERY HIGH,
and, the game was runnin at 69~ 94 FPS.

The CPU temp was below 48 AT ALL TIMES








Overclocked to 3.8Ghz


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thiagocosta85* 
Let me tell you !
It works like a charm ~!

I downloaded crysis + 64bit NO CD file,...

and, the game was running at 174 ~ 194 FPS .
I set the settings to VERY HIGH,
and, the game was runnin at 69~ 94 FPS.

The CPU temp was below 48 AT ALL TIMES








Overclocked to 3.8Ghz









He has an intel CPU though. He can hit 100C and be ok while your CPU hits 63C it could be fried.


----------



## CristiM74

Hi there,

I just installed my H70 last week with 2 Noctua 140mm fans (on 120mm mounts) in a HAF-X case, pulling air in the case.
I originaly tested in Prime95 at 4.2 GHz @ 1.325V but the temperature was too high: 81-82 'C.
Now I'm running happy at 4.0 GHz @ 1.25V and the temperature is at 71 'C in Prime95.
I'm quite satisfied now. You can check my complete specs below.


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CristiM74* 
Hi there,

I just installed my H70 last week with 2 Noctua 140mm fans (on 120mm mounts) in a HAF-X case, pulling air in the case.
I originaly tested in Prime95 at 4.2 GHz @ 1.325V but the temperature was too high: 81-82 'C.
Now I'm running happy at 4.0 GHz @ 1.25V and the temperature is at 71 'C in Prime95.
I'm quite satisfied now. You can check my complete specs below.

Got any pics? I don't see why you need 140mm fans, there are much better 120mm fans that work well with the H70


----------



## CristiM74

The Noctua fans are very good, and being 140mm provide very good airflow at lower rpm, so very quiet. They provide better airflow than the 2000rpm Corsair fans for a lot less noise.
Here are some pics, but not very high quality.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CristiM74* 
The Noctua fans are very good, and being 140mm provide very good airflow at lower rpm, so very quiet. They provide better airflow than the 2000rpm Corsair fans for a lot less noise.
Here are some pics, but not very high quality.

Not bad man....might have a hard time sealing a shroud on them though right? I guess if you don't want to put shrouds on then it doesn't matter though =)


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CristiM74* 
The Noctua fans are very good, and being 140mm provide very good airflow at lower rpm, so very quiet. They provide better airflow than the 2000rpm Corsair fans for a lot less noise.

The point i am getting at is that the 140mm fans will not be 'sealed' against the rad, and you will get air blowing down the side of the rad and not through it as it is supposed to (your second pic shows the gaps)


----------



## PTFMWB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pedrosa* 
The point i am getting at is that the 140mm fans will not be 'sealed' against the rad, and you will get air blowing down the side of the rad and not through it as it is supposed to (your second pic shows the gaps)

On the other hand, you could argue that most 120mm fans don't cool the corners of a square 120 mm radiator very well, for that you probably need a square fan shroud. So, yes, with this setup you're blowing air next to the radiator, but ALSO through it... I can imagine pretty good results with a setup like this.


----------



## Davidsen

Finally got my H50 installed, and idle temps are 30C, and at times 26C. Overclocked my X2 II 550 to 4.01GHz @1.50-1.55v, but haven't tested with prime yet.

Also, do i need 1.55v to get 4GHz stable with a 550?


----------



## CristiM74

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PTFMWB* 
On the other hand, you could argue that most 120mm fans don't cool the corners of a square 120 mm radiator very well, for that you probably need a square fan shroud. So, yes, with this setup you're blowing air next to the radiator, but ALSO through it... I can imagine pretty good results with a setup like this.









Exactly ... I thought this setup would be quite efficient and very quiet!
And I'm happy with the results: maximum 71 'C at 4 GHz in prime95, sometimes even 69 'C!


----------



## PTFMWB

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CristiM74* 
Exactly ... I thought this setup would be quite efficient and very quiet!
And I'm happy with the results: maximum 71 'C at 4 GHz in prime95, sometimes even 69 'C!

I'm running a 930 @ 4.0 GHz on 1.32 Volts, stable in Prime for 6 hours, at 71 degrees with my H50 and double Scythe Gentle Typhoons 1850 RPM in push/pull acting as exhaust. Although I guess your fans might be a bit more quiet than mine, results seem pretty similar.

What's your Vcore?


----------



## CristiM74

I'm running @ 1.25 V, although CPU-Z shows 1.28V, but I never let prime95 run for that long


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CristiM74* 
I'm running @ 1.25 V, although CPU-Z shows 1.28V, but I never let prime95 run for that long









What was your ambient temp? My results for H70/gentle typhoon versus corsair fans here:-
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...l#post10471630
Load temp doesn't touch 60c


----------



## CristiM74

Hmmm ... interesting temperatures ... I've never seen temperatures that low advertised for H70 on an i7 @ 4 GHz. Anyway, your processor is on 32nm while mine is on 45nm. Still, you have 6 cores while I only have 4 so I wonder how you could get such low temps ... also my ambient temp was at least 5 'C more than yours.


----------



## PCSarge

i figured out simple physics, why rear or sidemount your rad? heat travels up, top mount it, youll lose more heat with less fan speed


----------



## Silvos00

I also thought of that, but wouldn't gravity provide resistance to the air being pushed up? Just me thinking out loud, not really awake.


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Silvos00* 
I also thought of that, but wouldn't gravity provide resistance to the air being pushed up? Just me thinking out loud, not really awake.

im no physics expert, but i don't think air is plagued by the same laws of physics as solid matter.


----------



## Infinitegrim

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thiagocosta85* 
Let me tell you !
It works like a charm ~!

I downloaded crysis + 64bit NO CD file,...

and, the game was running at 174 ~ 194 FPS .
I set the settings to VERY HIGH,
and, the game was runnin at 69~ 94 FPS.

The CPU temp was below 48 AT ALL TIMES








Overclocked to 3.8Ghz









NICE!

I will know by tonight! tracking has been updated and is out for delivery. It was supposed to come tomorrow. So I actually got one day delivery when I paid for two

Would you believe that it was only $9 to ship it 2nd day air from tigerdirect?

I wish I got your framerate though. Right now at 1280x1024 very high 4xAA with my GTX 470 overclocked to 750/1500/1700 I'm averageing 44fps with my CPU @ 4.12Ghz.


----------



## thiagocosta85

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Infinitegrim* 
NICE!

I will know by tonight! tracking has been updated and is out for delivery. It was supposed to come tomorrow. So I actually got one day delivery when I paid for two

Would you believe that it was only $9 to ship it 2nd day air from tigerdirect?

I wish I got your framerate though. Right now at 1280x1024 very high 4xAA with my GTX 470 overclocked to 750/1500/1700 I'm averageing 44fps with my CPU @ 4.12Ghz.

WOw newegg charged 16 dollars for shipping, I am glad you were able to get a good deal.

Nice, 40 FPS isnt bad,
I will not overclock my video yet, I want to Mod it first, It gets SO hot, that when I touch the cooling pipe, it burns my hand...

That's not healthy, When I run Adobe After Effects, it gets VERY VERY hot,... and Crysis / SC2 also make it very hot. I have the feeling this video card will die in less than 4 years...


----------



## Infinitegrim

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thiagocosta85* 
WOw newegg charged 16 dollars for shipping, I am glad you were able to get a good deal.

Nice, 40 FPS isnt bad,
I will not overclock my video yet, I want to Mod it first, It gets SO hot, that when I touch the cooling pipe, it burns my hand...

That's not healthy, When I run Adobe After Effects, it gets VERY VERY hot,... and Crysis / SC2 also make it very hot. I have the feeling this video card will die in less than 4 years...

What do you have the fan on? I have a 120mm fan blowing air onto the bottom of my card, where the opening for the fan is and that significantly dropped the temps.

This is with the 120mm fan on low.









With the 120mm fan on high and while playing crysis for 30-40 minutes it gets up to 63C and stays at that and doesnt move up or down.


----------



## thiagocosta85

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Infinitegrim* 
What do you have the fan on? I have a 120mm fan blowing air onto the bottom of my card, where the opening for the fan is and that significantly dropped the temps.

This is with the 120mm fan on low.

With the 120mm fan on high and while playing crysis for 30-40 minutes it gets up to 63C and stays at that and doesnt move up or down.

Very good idea ! I will put a fan blowing into that whole on the bottom of the card. to maximize air flow... Thx bro !

I will see .. if the TEMP drops enough, I won't require a mod


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Infinitegrim* 
NICE!

I will know by tonight! tracking has been updated and is out for delivery. It was supposed to come tomorrow. So I actually got one day delivery when I paid for two

Would you believe that it was only $9 to ship it 2nd day air from tigerdirect?

I wish I got your framerate though. Right now at 1280x1024 very high 4xAA with my GTX 470 overclocked to 750/1500/1700 I'm averageing 44fps with my CPU @ 4.12Ghz.

yes with tigerdirect, i believe it, i bought all my pc parts from there, thier reliable and every store always has whats on thier website in stock


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Silvos00* 
I also thought of that, but wouldn't gravity provide resistance to the air being pushed up? Just me thinking out loud, not really awake.

no gravity does not effect air, otherwise we'd all hafta lay on the ground to breathe, and id say me moving my rad to the top of my case, and shaving 3C off of all 4 cores while folding big units, is pretty proof enough... not to mention that same 3C is still off with 2 hrs of linpack on max, and im using a single R4 in push, if it was push pull it would probably drop more


----------



## Infinitegrim

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
no gravity does not effect air, otherwise we'd all hafta lay on the ground to breathe, and id say me moving my rad to the top of my case, and shaving 3C off of all 4 cores while folding big units, is pretty proof enough... not to mention that same 3C is still off with 2 hrs of linpack on max, and im using a single R4 in push, if it was push pull it would probably drop more

Gravity effects the air, if it didnt, we wouldnt have an atmosphere.

Hot air rises because it is less dense then cold air.

All ofthe air isnt compressed onto the ground because it would require more force then gravity can provide because you would be compressing the air. There is a reason the higher atmospheres have less oxygen.


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
no gravity does not effect air, otherwise we'd all hafta lay on the ground to breathe, and id say me moving my rad to the top of my case, and shaving 3C off of all 4 cores while folding big units, is pretty proof enough... not to mention that same 3C is still off with 2 hrs of linpack on max

Gravity DOES have an effect on air. This is why the air is denser at sea level then on the mount everest for example.
Every matter is affected by gravity. How much it's affected is told by the weight of the molecules.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Infinitegrim* 
Gravity effects the air, if it didnt, we wouldnt have an atmosphere.

Hot air rises because it is less dense then cold air.

touche, but relocate your rads people, it will help... trust me just make sure it exhausts out the top, intake would defeat the purpose of hot air rising


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
touche, but relocate your rads people, it will help... trust me just make sure it exhausts out the top, intake would defeat the purpose of hot air rising

You have to look at it from a couple perspectives first....if your case vents lots of hot air out the top to where you have your radiator mounted then you could raise your temps it all depends on your setup. Pulling cool air from the front with my setup yielded the best results rear intake and exhaust and top exhaust where 5C+ hotter. Putting it as top exhaust works for your setup but you should be telling everyone too that you have a full WC loop and their results will vary and they will vary a lot depending on their case/motherboard/other fans and their total setup in general.


----------



## looser101

^ the voice of reason...


----------



## PCSarge

it depends more on case, my rear 140mm,and my side and front 230mm fans, are all intaking cold air, the rad is up top exhausting now, and my pc is actually quite cold inside and the rad gets near direct cold air from the rear 140mm, for its hanging in the top rear slot, positive cold air pressure in the case


----------



## Infinitegrim

Alright what thermal compound did you guys use? I have AS5 or MX-2. I just installed the H70 with the stock thermal stuff but it doent appear to be working to well. I'm idling around 40-45C and load im at 70C, which is only 3-4C cooler then my artic cooling


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PCSarge*


it depends more on case, my rear 140mm,and my side and front 230mm fans, are all intaking cold air, the rad is up top exhausting now, and my pc is actually quite cold inside and the rad gets near direct cold air from the rear 140mm, for its hanging in the top rear slot, positive cold air pressure in the case










Not at all....if you use your case and have four GTX 480 cards in SLI that don't vent hot air out the back you have ones that just blow the air from the case on their heat sinks and keep the hot air in the case then it would be much different if you had the ones that vent the hot air out the back. Just like I said above it depends on total setup not just one component like case.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Infinitegrim*


Alright what thermal compound did you guys use? I have AS5 or MX-2. I just installed the H70 with the stock thermal stuff but it doent appear to be working to well. I'm idling around 40-45C and load im at 70C, which is only 3-4C cooler then my artic cooling


I used AS5 on my H50 after the cure time was up I get great temps. It could be other things for you though, first make sure you have your bios set so the fan and the pump headers are at 100% and that you have nothing turned on like cool and quiet or any other thing that might throttle the rpm of the fans or pump. If you sure they are running at 100% then move on to check something else like make sure that you have the pump/block seated properly on your CPU.


----------



## d33r

hello...i just underwent a long ass install of my h70...since my mobo does not have an opening on the back..i had to remove the whole frickin thing both video cards and sound card..and take mobo out of case...install the back bracket then put mobo back in..

then getting the heatsink/pump to fit on the cpu was so difficult...

MAIN QUESTION

HOW do i know that my 2 ap-15 fans are running at full speed? is there a way to check? and did i need to plug anything into the CPU/FAN HEADER on the mobo? it seems to be working just by pluggin the pump into a 3 pin fan header and the remaining 2 fans into 3 pin fan headers...plz answer quickly!


----------



## Ivan TSI

Hi, i recently got a H50 for my next rig and was wondering if someone is using these fans and how they compare to the GT-AP15 in terms or performance and sound

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27665


----------



## looser101

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI*   Hi, i recently got a H50 for my next rig and was wondering if someone is using these fans and how they compare to the GT-AP15 in terms or performance and sound

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27665  
Decide for yourself:

  
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLgJomTh74w  



 
 From here:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...tor-tests.html


----------



## d33r

HOW do i know that my 2 ap-15 fans are running at full speed? is there a way to check? and did i need to plug anything into the CPU/FAN HEADER on the mobo? it seems to be working just by pluggin the pump into a 3 pin fan header and the remaining 2 fans into 3 pin fan headers...plz answer quickly! 
__________________


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *d33r*


HOW do i know that my 2 ap-15 fans are running at full speed? is there a way to check? and did i need to plug anything into the CPU/FAN HEADER on the mobo? it seems to be working just by pluggin the pump into a 3 pin fan header and the remaining 2 fans into 3 pin fan headers...plz answer quickly! 
__________________


Use Asus Probe to check the fan and pump speed. Fan about 1850rpm, pump about 1400rpm. You can also look in your bios for the fan/pump speeds, and make sure they are configured to run at full speed.


----------



## Spct

do not allow your pump to fluctuate. Your fans can be 4 pin'ed to adjust for load needs but your pump is to run at full capacity at all times.

Your directions that came with the H50 are quite clear on this


----------



## Infinitegrim

Alright I reseated mine using MX-2. Orthos still got up to 70C, but I'm idling around 36-40C, while playing crysis I get up to 62C. Not bad considering I'm at 4.12Ghz, but I was expecting better. Hopefully once the MX-2 cures it will improve.


----------



## Ivan TSI

And anyone using these shroud that can tell me which screw length to use?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=28827


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI* 
And anyone using these shroud that can tell me which screw length to use?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=28827

2" 6-32 screws should work.


----------



## daito

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
2" 6-32 screws should work.

yes if you're using 25mm fan with it


----------



## d33r

Does anything need to be plugged into the CPU FAN/Header on the mobo? and the pump can be plugged into just a random 3 pin fan header on the mobo? im sorry the directions are very vague.


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *d33r* 
Does anything need to be plugged into the CPU FAN/Header on the mobo?

Whatever you want really.

Did you actually read the manual?


----------



## d33r

I read the manuel...it is very vague...doesnt tell you were to plug things in...anyway...am i ok pluggin the pump into a random 3pin fan header on the mobo? i hear these 3pin headers make it run at 100percent? is this true?

and is prime95 burntest a must?


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *d33r* 
I read the manuel...it is very vague...doesnt tell you were to plug things in...anyway...am i ok pluggin the pump into a random 3pin fan header on the mobo? i hear these 3pin headers make it run at 100percent? is this true?

It doesn't matter what header you have it plugged into, as long as the bios is set to give the header full power. usually, the cpu fan header is the only one that would throttle on it's own, but you can disable the smart fan control in the bios.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


Originally Posted by *digital_steve* 
Whatever you want really.

Did you actually read the manual?

Do people really do that.


----------



## Kyushu

When people say that the h50 push/pull runs only 1-3 degrees hotter than the h70 is that including a shroud on the h50 or no?


----------



## TehCodehzor

I thought the shroud only cut down on noise?


----------



## daito

shrouds give you better airflow
i don't know how to explain it but i'll try








they say that the part in the middle of the fan doesn't have airflow behind it
so it leaves a dead spot on the radiator where no air come through
when using a shroud the air passes through the whole radiator .. leaving no dead spots behind
hence better temps









@Kyushu: i think it is without a shroud, but with 2 fans in push/pull

Quote:


Originally Posted by *d33r* 
and is prime95 burntest a must?

yes if you OC the cpu, that's how you know if it's stable
and i have the pump plugged into a random 3 pin fan header and it runs around 1440 rpm


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lightsout* 
Do people really do that.









Allegedly!


----------



## TehCodehzor

Hm, about these shrouds..
I have 120x38 fans.. should i get the same size shroud or just a standard 120 shroud..
or does that really matter?


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TehCodehzor* 
Hm, about these shrouds..
I have 120x38 fans.. should i get the same size shroud or just a standard 120 shroud..
or does that really matter?

Nope
Just gut a normal fan (i.e. 25mm) and you're fine... if you really want one


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *d33r* 
I read the manuel...it is very vague...doesnt tell you were to plug things in...anyway...am i ok pluggin the pump into a random 3pin fan header on the mobo? i hear these 3pin headers make it run at 100percent? is this true?

and is prime95 burntest a must?

The only way(aside from being very familiar with your BIOS and OS) to ensure you are getting 100% power from the pump is to completely remove its ability to be throttled...i.e. plug it into a molex adapter if you're not sure you have or know how to disable all throttling actions from the header you're plugging it into.
Apparently your BIOS will let you go w/o the CPU fan header occupied...mine gives annoying warnings every time I reboot so I plug the pump into the CPU header since it's right there anyway. Then make sure I have set my advanced system cooling profile power settings in windows to Active and have all BIOS throttling disabled...works fine for me.

As for Prime95 - it is good and even better if you're just starting to overclock. It has a steady draw on your CPU and methodically checks it over to ensure you don't have a BSOD or freeze up at an inopportune time.
I personally like LinX better now that I've been using it for a while...pushes your temp higher than Prime95 in less time and usually detects errors in 5-15mins that Prime95 doesn't after 2hours+(but will if I leave on overnight).

Regardless, some sort of stress testing program is of course extremely useful and "necessary" for successful overclocking.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TehCodehzor* 
Hm, about these shrouds..
I have 120x38 fans.. should i get the same size shroud or just a standard 120 shroud..
or does that really matter?

I forget what chapter it was discussed in this encyclopedia threadtanica but supposedly 32-35mm is the "sweet spot" for an H-50 Shroud...not sure if the same applies to H-70 as I don't fully understand the implications of 10-15mm distance variance on shrouds >< dang i just confused myself even talking about it








Anyway, I think you would be better served by a 30mm+ shroud but feel free to disagree^^


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
The only way(aside from being very familiar with your BIOS and OS) to ensure you are getting 100% power from the pump is to completely remove its ability to be throttled...i.e. plug it into a molex adapter if you're not sure you have or know how to disable all throttling actions from the header you're plugging it into.
Apparently your BIOS will let you go w/o the CPU fan header occupied...mine gives annoying warnings every time I reboot so I plug the pump into the CPU header since it's right there anyway. Then make sure I have set my advanced system cooling profile power settings in windows to Active and have all BIOS throttling disabled...works fine for me.

As for Prime95 - it is good and even better if you're just starting to overclock. It has a steady draw on your CPU and methodically checks it over to ensure you don't have a BSOD or freeze up at an inopportune time.
I personally like LinX better now that I've been using it for a while...pushes your temp higher than Prime95 in less time and usually detects errors in 5-15mins that Prime95 doesn't after 2hours+(but will if I leave on overnight).

Regardless, some sort of stress testing program is of course extremely useful and "necessary" for successful overclocking.

I forget what chapter it was discussed in this encyclopedia threadtanica but supposedly 32-35mm is the "sweet spot" for an H-50 Shroud...not sure if the same applies to H-70 as I don't fully understand the implications of 10-15mm distance variance on shrouds >< dang i just confused myself even talking about it








Anyway, I think you would be better served by a 30mm+ shroud but feel free to disagree^^

A shroud removes the "dead spot" of a fan the dead spot is the space behind the motor/hub of the fan where if you have the fan placed directly on to the radiator obviously no air is being blown on the radiator where the motor/hub is so putting a shroud between the fan and the radiator eliminates or at least lessons the dead spot . The optimal size of the shroud differs depending on the size of the motor/hub of your particular fan so there is no "perfect" size for a 120mm fan though most fans are about the same size so the 32-35mm shroud should be best for most. I only had 25mm shrouds to use so went with what I had and noticed almost a 3C drop.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
A shroud removes the "dead spot" of a fan the dead spot is the space behind the motor/hub of the fan where if you have the fan placed directly on to the radiator obviously no air is being blown on the radiator where the motor/hub is so putting a shroud between the fan and the radiator eliminates or at least lessons the dead spot . The optimal size of the shroud differs depending on the size of the motor/hub of your particular fan so there is no "perfect" size for a 120mm fan though most fans are about the same size so the 32-35mm shroud should be best for most. I only had 25mm shrouds to use so went with what I had and noticed almost a 3C drop.

thanks for clarifying. I had only 25mm as well but I used some plastic grills(gutted) as well and sealed them onto the shroud giving me roughly 34mm xDDD


----------



## Zerogamer22

hello! i got the h50,too. i was thinking about pull/push..... i want to know anyone suggest best 120mm fan for it??? and i have to make sure about what inch for screw?


----------



## shapiror06

Just ordered 2 Tecnofront Air Box 120's from Frozencpu.com







Here

I also just got 4 new SilenX (2 38mm, and 2 25mm) so I'm planning on doing a pretty extensive review with the stock fans, my Antec TriCools, and these SilenX fans. Should be exciting!

I'm going to do a temp comparison between stock frequency and voltage and OC frequency and voltage, and w/ and w/o the shrouds for all the fans.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zerogamer22* 
hello! i got the h50,too. i was thinking about pull/push..... i want to know anyone suggest best 120mm fan for it??? and i have to make sure about what inch for screw?

stock screws are 6/32 x 1"1/4.
If you care about noise the GTAP15's(scythe) seem to be the most common. The h-50 is a smaller rad so probably not going to see a huge difference in temps if you find a fan with higher static pressure but that is generally what you look for to move air through radiators. I could care less about noise so I try to find the highest static pressure+cfm 120mm fans....still experimenting

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shapiror06* 
Just ordered 2 Tecnofront Air Box 120's from Frozencpu.com







Here

I also just got 4 new SilenX (2 38mm, and 2 25mm) so I'm planning on doing a pretty extensive review with the stock fans, my Antec TriCools, and these SilenX fans. Should be exciting!

I'm going to do a temp comparison between stock frequency and voltage and OC frequency and voltage, and w/ and w/o the shrouds for all the fans.

Nice man, look forward to seeing the results. I have some of those Silverstone Air Penetrator fans on the way with my channel molding order from Perf PCs. Just trying them to better direct cool air from the bottom of my case -> top, or maybe from side-top-left 120mm mount to blast the **** out of the Northbridge and CPU. Also, I will try them on the H-70 and see what they can do there. I'll post results as well so we can start a hybrid fan roundup for some of the new 120mm fans xD


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
Nice man, look forward to seeing the results. I have some of those Silverstone Air Penetrator fans on the way with my channel molding order from Perf PCs. Just trying them to better direct cool air from the bottom of my case -> top, or maybe from side-top-left 120mm mount to blast the **** out of the Northbridge and CPU. Also, I will try them on the H-70 and see what they can do there. I'll post results as well so we can start a hybrid fan roundup for some of the new 120mm fans xD

I asked Killhouse to start a spreadsheet with user's fan setups and results stock vs. OC, but he didn't think it would be useful. I personally think it would be good to have a condensed source for looking at what fans people are using, whether it's a P/P config, direction of airflow (intake or exhaust), their temp results stock vs. OC, voltages, etc.


----------



## slimbrady

Well, there are so many variables that would need to be included in something like that. Killhouse probably didn't want to spend the next week compiling data =P I cannot see how this wouldn't be useful though, don't have to pay attention to exact numbers just the difference between them. What would be great is having the stock temps at stock clocks/configuration of h50/70 then resulting temps from upgraded fans/shrouds/placement/TIM used/Case+case airflow path...hmm what else to make it less subjective?


----------



## Infinitegrim

How much does the Corsair fans move air wise?

I put two of THESE on it, and I have them on high.

Would the Corsair fans be better, the fans I linked to arent that loud either, and I dont care how load they are because my GTX 470 is much louder anyway


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
Well, there are so many variables that would need to be included in something like that. Killhouse probably didn't want to spend the next week compiling data =P I cannot see how this wouldn't be useful though, don't have to pay attention to exact numbers just the difference between them. What would be great is having the stock temps at stock clocks/configuration of h50/70 then resulting temps from upgraded fans/shrouds/placement/TIM used/Case+case airflow path...hmm what else to make it less subjective?

Yeah... I was going to start compiling data, but I think this thread is just too big at this point to start something like that. There's just too much to keep track of.


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimbrady*


Then make sure I have set my advanced system cooling profile power settings in windows to Active and have all BIOS throttling disabled...works fine for me.


Also make sure in Windows 7 to select High Performance and NOT Balanced from the Power Options!


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shapiror06*


Just ordered 2 Tecnofront Air Box 120's from Frozencpu.com







Here

I also just got 4 new SilenX (2 38mm, and 2 25mm) so I'm planning on doing a pretty extensive review with the stock fans, my Antec TriCools, and these SilenX fans. Should be exciting!

I'm going to do a temp comparison between stock frequency and voltage and OC frequency and voltage, and w/ and w/o the shrouds for all the fans.


where did you get some 6/32 short screws to attach this air box to the radiator?


----------



## daito

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI*


where did you get some 6/32 short screws to attach this air box to the radiator?


i got some from here
although i ordered long screws to fit the fan + shroud
scroll down and you'll find 6-32 1/4" i guess they're good for attaching the rad to the airbox


----------



## koven

hey guys, anyone here using AS5?

right now i have an h50 w/ everything stock

i'm loading @ 56C w/ 4ghz 1.53v right now

how much cooler do you think it'd run if i added AS5 and another fan for push-pull? 1-3C or 4C+?


----------



## koven

daito, how's your ap-14 push pull? what are your temps/oc?


----------



## Yellowbeard

Just a reminder FYI, *FINDING H50 SCREWS OUTSIDE THE USA*.


----------



## XtachiX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *koven*


hey guys, anyone here using AS5?

right now i have an h50 w/ everything stock

i'm loading @ 56C w/ 4ghz 1.53v right now

how much cooler do you think it'd run if i added AS5 and another fan for push-pull? 1-3C or 4C+?


i'm using as5
and yes it will improve your temps since they put way too much tim on the h50


----------



## Yokes29

New H70 owner here.
I thought the TIM on the H70 is that "Shin Etsu" stuff, isn't that supposed to be the best?
I read in another thread here that it shouldn't be even changed, cause its supposed to be a little better than AS5. Can anyone clarify, cause i got some AS5 hanging round still.
**also, is there a cure time for the Shin Etsu"?


----------



## reaper~

^ It's definitely better than the older AS5 and with these newer TIMs, there's little to no cure time at all (4 hours curing time for ShinEtsu according to this review). I'd use that stock TIM that comes with your new H70.


----------



## M1nUrThr3t

the stock TIM is really good, but they do put a lot on there.


----------



## Yokes29

Think i'll keep it the way it is then. I didn't feel like uninstalling the cooler anyways. Thanks you guys. Anywho, i'm happy with the H70, my systems runs a little bit quieter now that i have the H70, and it was only $95 CAD.


----------



## daito

Quote:


Originally Posted by *koven* 
daito, how's your ap-14 push pull? what are your temps/oc?

i haven't OCed the cpu yet
my temps while cpu on stock are around 30 idle and 40 - 41 on load
both fans are running on full speed
planning on adding 2 shrouds hopefully next week and probably start OCing
will make sure to update with tepms when i OC .. lets hope it'll be less than 60 @ 4Ghz


----------



## Infinitegrim

I'm really loving the H70.

Using MX-2, which im not sure how good it is as I ususally use AS5.

Normally with my E7200 at 4Ghz @ 1.28vcore I would hit 75+C when using 3dmark, any higher clock and it would go above 80C and I would turn it off

Now with the H70 and at 4.15Ghz @ 1.360vcore I'm idling 35-39C and hitting 62C MAX during 3dmark and vantage


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yokes29* 
Think i'll keep it the way it is then. I didn't feel like uninstalling the cooler anyways. Thanks you guys. Anywho, i'm happy with the H70, my systems runs a little bit quieter now that i have the H70, and it was only $95 CAD.

The H70 looks to not be plagued with the problem of the H50 having way too much TIM. From what I have seen in pictures the H70 has just about the right amount. The H50 has/had so much it should be removed prior to installation and then divided in half then reapplied.


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI* 
where did you get some 6/32 short screws to attach this air box to the radiator?

I just ordered the Air Boxs yesterday, I haven't gotten them. But the Tecnofront Air Box comes with screws to mount the box to the radiator, and screws long enough for 25mm fans that bolt to the air box.


----------



## Ivan TSI

yeah but the screws that came with the box are M3 while the threads on the h50 are 6/32

Now im delayed since the GT AP15 are out of stock everywhere.


----------



## Infinitegrim

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
The H70 looks to not be plagued with the problem of the H50 having way too much TIM. From what I have seen in pictures the H70 has just about the right amount. The H50 has/had so much it should be removed prior to installation and then divided in half then reapplied.

Mine had a lot on. Nearly 1mm thick and the area covered looked bigger then my e7200!


----------



## Yokes29

Hey quick question guys.
Looks like i got clearance for "one" shroud. Thinking about doing this. (Top mount on 800D)
S-FLEX-G > H70 Radiator > Shroud > S-FLEX-G
Is this appropriate, or should i put the shroud on push? will i see a decrease in temps?


----------



## Infinitegrim

I would put the shroud on the fan pushing.

If its on the fan thats pulling, it will try to suck air through the radiator where the motor is right by radiator and not much air will get through.


----------



## Infinitegrim

I am in love with this THING! (H70) Ever since I installed it I was still questioning it but....

I have had my CPU at really high vcore and clocks and it maxes at 62C when under full load.

Of course I covered the max temps like an idiot in this picture but I remember it was 57C,62C


----------



## Yokes29

Thanks for the advice Infinitegrim. Now i gotta get myself some longer screws.
Hopefully i can see a slight difference doing this.
Nice results by the way.


----------



## Collector

Hi,
I just bought a H50, and had to replace my old pc case (Aerocool Hi Tech 7 pro), because the radiator won't fit in due to the PSU. Now i'm thinking on buying Aerocool VX-9 Pro. Can i use the H50 in this case, without modding anything on the h50 or the case?
Thanks


----------



## fafner

I lost one of the silver push-through thread receivers that go through the back-plate to hold it in place and to receive the screws that hold the retaining ring to the motherboard. Does anyone know when I can get one?

I tried to find a phone number for Corsair Customer Service to see if they would send me one, but I did not see a number anywhere on the Corsair web site.

fafner


----------



## Little Overclocker/Gamer

I can't wait until I order all of my parts! I'm waiting for Thanksgiving/Christmas sales on newegg. I hope the H70 I'm ordering serves me well. I'll add myself once I get it.


----------



## Kyushu

Anyone know if the h70 can be mounted in the farrr right top 120mm fan slot in the haf 932 case?

I know the h50 can.


----------



## Zavia

Quick question Im prime 95 ing and passing all the tests but every so often the screen goes black then comes back no crash or Anything. Checked power settings it's not the monitor turning it's self off. And it didn't do it this morningwhile ocing. Just this test batch very randomly.







any ideas.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zavia*


Quick question Im prime 95 ing and passing all the tests but every so often the screen goes black then comes back no crash or Anything. Checked power settings it's not the monitor turning it's self off. And it didn't do it this morningwhile ocing. Just this test batch very randomly.







any ideas.


Do a 10x run of LinX-"http://www.youwatched.com/datajay/linx(0.64).7z" with ALL button toggled. =) But keep an eye on temps if you're OC'd - they go higher than prime will take them.


----------



## speerhammer

I'm going to place 2 SILVERSTONE AP121 120mm Case Fans on my H70 in push pull exhaust.
The current config is stock fans at 1595 RPM (stock w/ resistor inline.)
Current idle temp 29C, 34C after running all passmark tests.

edited: sys detail doesnt indicate stock clock during the temp tests
I've not oc'd.


----------



## Spct

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fafner*


I lost one of the silver push-through thread receivers that go through the back-plate to hold it in place and to receive the screws that hold the retaining ring to the motherboard. Does anyone know when I can get one?

I tried to find a phone number for Corsair Customer Service to see if they would send me one, but I did not see a number anywhere on the Corsair web site.

fafner


If they are all the same i have some left overs from my kit. PM me you address.

EDIT, No good, just checked the box,I ditched all left over plates, screws, ect, sorry


----------



## DeKosta

Im really happy with my H70, running 4GHz @ 1.312v and the cores idle at 30-35Â° and while pushing Intel Burn Test the temp rise to 50-60Â°.

Im sure I can push down the temps a little more with my ordered Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm. Or maybe the 3000rpm fan. hehe.
And i was a bit sloppy installing it so AS5 thermal paste and a reset should be nice.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *speerhammer*


I'm going to place 2 SILVERSTONE AP121 120mm Case Fans on my H70 in push pull exhaust.
The current config is stock fans at 1595 RPM (stock w/ resistor inline.)
Current idle temp 29C, 34C after running all passmark tests.

edited: sys detail doesnt indicate stock clock during the temp tests
I've not oc'd.


Very interested in the results...have 2 as well that should be arriving on Monday. If they're not up to the task, as I've heard they're more for directing a case's airflow than to be placed on radiators, I'll use them to get that stubborn cool air up past my GPU and perhaps the other as a top front intake.

@Kyushu - oh yea I forgot about that man, lol. Have been busy doing a case mod for my bro, sorry. Try to get to it today.


----------



## garnet1985

Just got my HAF-X and my H-70 in the mail, and sort of unsure where I can mount it. The hoses for the H-70 seem shorter than the H-50 so I can't see it mounting in the drive bay. I'm concerned with the tri-sli 470's that if I have it doing intake in the back I'll just be sucking in all the hot air from the sli.

Any suggestions?


----------



## Kyushu

Try mounting it in the front 5.25 drive bays as intake. Or try to creatE a bracket or something that will allow you to mount it on the top right 200mm fan slot.


----------



## Cee

Add me to









H70 coupled with noctua NF-p12's.


----------



## MikeM231

H50 Here


----------



## Spct

u can suspend it with heavy duty zip ties.


----------



## koven

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cee* 
Add me to









H70 coupled with noctua NF-p12's.

nice, you reach 4ghz yet? i would think it'd be easy w/ h70 and decent ambients


----------



## speerhammer

slimbrady said:


> Very interested in the results...have 2 as well that should be arriving on Monday. If they're not up to the task, as I've heard they're more for directing a case's airflow than to be placed on radiators, I'll use them to get that stubborn cool air up past my GPU and perhaps the other as a top front intake.
> 
> Sure,
> I'll post the results.
> I'm looking to quiet up a bit with mine.
> After reading up on them I think they are ideal for the the H70 radiator in a low db build. If it fails I'll use one to intake over my raptor and the other to exhaust out the top.


----------



## slimbrady

speerhammer said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *slimbrady*
> Very interested in the results...have 2 as well that should be arriving on Monday. If they're not up to the task, as I've heard they're more for directing a case's airflow than to be placed on radiators, I'll use them to get that stubborn cool air up past my GPU and perhaps the other as a top front intake.
> 
> Sure,
> I'll post the results.
> I'm looking to quiet up a bit with mine.
> After reading up on them I think they are ideal for the the H70 radiator in a low db build. If it fails I'll use one to intake over my raptor and the other to exhaust out the top.
> 
> 
> Ok sweet.
> 
> I would think twice about using one as exhaust though Oo. These fans are uniquely designed to channel air - that seems best used in the interior of the case where you most likely have multiple fans at varying rpm's and CFM's blowing in different directions....seems like if they're not going on the rad they'd be best used to ensure your air is moving strongly in the direction most beneficial to you.
> 
> I got the impression that the "magic" of this fan happens when the air is exiting the fan so when picturing my airflow I'm going to pick my 2 most critical cool intakes or blast through a hot pocket if I can find one(laser thermometer coming soon =P )don't really see how it could have a great effect as exhaust unless you're cold and have no heater and sit too far from your pc for a normal fan to warm you up xDDDD
> 
> Of course feel free to place them wherever you think best...just my opinion, I don't have my hands on them yet and I'm sure there is info about them I'm missing.


----------



## dafour

Ive just undervolted the pump because the sound was too much after 4-5 months,has anyone else tried this?
I'm noticing a 2c rise of temp but now the pump is inaudible!


----------



## ULAWE

how do i do a push/pull method? I just used the stock way of cooling the H50. Is that correct??


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ulawe* 
how do i do a push/pull method? I just used the stock way of cooling the H50. Is that correct??

push is referring to a fan mounted so that the airflow from it is pushing through the radiator(i.e. how you have it set up now). Pull is referring to a 2nd fan(like the H-70 comes with) placed on the other side of the radiator, moving air in the same direction as the 1st fan and "pulling" it through the radiator. I certainly wouldn't call the stock setup incorrect - not optimal would be a better description.


----------



## fafner

Quote:
Originally Posted by fafner 
I lost one of the silver push-through thread receivers that go through the back-plate to hold it in place and to receive the screws that hold the retaining ring to the motherboard. Does anyone know when I can get one?

I tried to find a phone number for Corsair Customer Service to see if they would send me one, but I did not see a number anywhere on the Corsair web site.

fafner

If they are all the same i have some left overs from my kit. PM me you address.

EDIT, No good, just checked the box,I ditched all left over plates, screws, ect, sorry 
__________________
Anyone else have one? I have 3 of the SATA hot-swap back plates I can donate to anyone who needs one of more.

fafner


----------



## speerhammer

slimbrady said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *speerhammer*
> 
> Ok sweet.
> 
> I would think twice about using one as exhaust though Oo. These fans are uniquely designed to channel air - that seems best used in the interior of the case where you most likely have multiple fans at varying rpm's and CFM's blowing in different directions....seems like if they're not going on the rad they'd be best used to ensure your air is moving strongly in the direction most beneficial to you.
> 
> I got the impression that the "magic" of this fan happens when the air is exiting the fan so when picturing my airflow I'm going to pick my 2 most critical cool intakes or blast through a hot pocket if I can find one(laser thermometer coming soon =P )don't really see how it could have a great effect as exhaust unless you're cold and have no heater and sit too far from your pc for a normal fan to warm you up xDDDD
> 
> Of course feel free to place them wherever you think best...just my opinion, I don't have my hands on them yet and I'm sure there is info about them I'm missing.
> 
> Good point, that makes alot of sense.
> It sounds like two Silverstone APs inline to push/pull on the H70 might not be ideal. Maybe I'll use one to push with a higher RPM fan to pull.
> I'll experiment a bit with it and see where it goes as well.
> My 2x order arrives on Tues or Wed. Can't wait!


----------



## speerhammer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimbrady*


push is referring to a fan mounted so that the airflow from it is pushing through the radiator(i.e. how you have it set up now). Pull is referring to a 2nd fan(like the H-70 comes with) placed on the other side of the radiator, moving air in the same direction as the 1st fan and "pulling" it through the radiator. I certainly wouldn't call the stock setup incorrect - not optimal would be a better description.


To the point of not being optimal, there is a substantial amount of noise with the H70 stock fans in push pull config w/o the resistors inline.
The resistors will lower the fan rpm from 1900 to 1595. My bios doesn't auto control these bad boys as the included connectors are only 3pin.
Corsair intends these to run fast - it's a big radiator and needs substantial airflow. I've included a link to a great article I've been using while pondering.

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum...review-10.html

Don't get me wrong - I know noise isn't always a concern for people and certainly less common on an overclockers forum!

There are really two things going on here.

What fan config is going to deliver the best performance and what is the best performance delivered with a second objective of reducing overall noise?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *speerhammer*


To the point of not being optimal, there is a substantial amount of noise with the H70 stock fans in push pull config w/o the resistors inline.
The resistors will lower the fan rpm from 1900 to 1595. My bios doesn't auto control these bad boys as the included connectors are only 3pin.
Corsair intends these to run fast - it's a big radiator and needs substantial airflow. I've included a link to a great article I've been using while pondering.

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum...review-10.html

Don't get me wrong - I know noise isn't always a concern for people and certainly less common on an overclockers forum!

There are really two things going on here.

What fan config is going to deliver the best performance and what is the best performance delivered with a second objective of reducing overall noise?


Gents, I don't know why people keep trying to use a 25 mm fan on this. Even with my H50, I switched from S-Flex 1600 rpm to Ultra Kaze 35 mm 2000 rpm fans and have never looked back. They are inexpensive ($10.00), put out much better static pressure than you will ever get from a 25 mm fan (yes even the GTs) and are fairly quiet (you don't even need a fan controller), I hear a low pitched background sound but its certainly not loud or annoying (don't get the 3,000 rpm Ultra Kaze though because that IS loud and annoying). For $10.00 do yourselves a favor and try it out. You won't be going back to any 25 mm fan...oh and the performance increase for my H50 has been about 3-5 degrees.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Gents, I don't know why people keep trying to use a 25 mm fan on this. Even with my H50, I switched from S-Flex 1600 rpm to Ultra Kaze 35 mm 2000 rpm fans and have never looked back. They are inexpensive ($10.00), put out much better static pressure than you will ever get from a 25 mm fan (yes even the GTs) and are fairly quiet (you don't even need a fan controller), I hear a low pitched background sound but its certainly not loud or annoying (don't get the 3,000 rpm Ultra Kaze though because that IS loud and annoying). For $10.00 do yourselves a favor and try it out. You won't be going back to any 25 mm fan...oh and the performance increase for my H50 has been about 3-5 degrees.










Opps I meant Ultra Kaze *38 mm* 2000 rpm fan (no such thing as a 35 mm)


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *speerhammer*


To the point of not being optimal, there is a substantial amount of noise with the H70 stock fans in push pull config w/o the resistors inline.
The resistors will lower the fan rpm from 1900 to 1595. My bios doesn't auto control these bad boys as the included connectors are only 3pin.
Corsair intends these to run fast - it's a big radiator and needs substantial airflow. I've included a link to a great article I've been using while pondering.

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum...review-10.html

Don't get me wrong - I know noise isn't always a concern for people and certainly less common on an overclockers forum!



He is using an H50 though so adding almost any fan from whisper to turbine should be an improvement regardless of your goal - unless the goal is higher temps xD

That thread was a nice read, hadn't seen that one yet thanks for the think. Sounds like our SSAP's(TM lol) will be arriving around the same day - my order may arrive monday but more likely tuesday. Really looking forward to it as well. Should be a lot of fun to play with. I was thinking of setting up some sort of low tech airflow monitoring system....cut something really light up into strips and place strategically, or some other system, have to give it 
some thought.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Opps I meant Ultra Kaze *38 mm* 2000 rpm fan (no such thing as a 35 mm)










Funny man I put 2 of those on an overnight order from newegg not but 2 hours ago, lol. Had to pic up the CPU for the PC i'm building for my bro who's birthday is tomorrow - don't think I'll get it in time but hopefully will at least be done with all the friggin painting. Not going to lie I'm having fun though, first time I've tried modding anything really - http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...900-paint.html

Alright, be back soon - dam u kyushu =P doing it now


----------



## ULAWE

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
push is referring to a fan mounted so that the airflow from it is pushing through the radiator(i.e. how you have it set up now). Pull is referring to a 2nd fan(like the H-70 comes with) placed on the other side of the radiator, moving air in the same direction as the 1st fan and "pulling" it through the radiator. I certainly wouldn't call the stock setup incorrect - not optimal would be a better description.

So mount 2 fans on either side of the radiator, then make one push the air through from outside of the case, then one more on the otherside pull it to the CPU area?

Visual

->{}->

Legend
-> = 120mm fan airflow direction
{} = H50 radiator


----------



## TehCodehzor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
Gents, I don't know why people keep trying to use a 25 mm fan on this. Even with my H50, I switched from S-Flex 1600 rpm to Ultra Kaze 35 mm 2000 rpm fans and have never looked back. They are inexpensive ($10.00), put out much better static pressure than you will ever get from a 25 mm fan (yes even the GTs) and are fairly quiet (you don't even need a fan controller), I hear a low pitched background sound but its certainly not loud or annoying (don't get the 3,000 rpm Ultra Kaze though because that IS loud and annoying). For $10.00 do yourselves a favor and try it out. You won't be going back to any 25 mm fan...oh and the performance increase for my H50 has been about 3-5 degrees.









Yea, i have two Ultra Kaze fans set up right now on a fan controller. Cant hear them at full speed :}


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ulawe* 
So mount 2 fans on either side of the radiator, then make one push the air through from outside of the case, then one more on the otherside pull it to the CPU area?

Visual

->{}->

Legend
-> = 120mm fan airflow direction
{} = H50 radiator

Yessir.

The airflow could also be reversed so long as both fans are always going in the same direction. Pretty much the only other thing people are doing(incl me) is adding shrouds like so

->[{}]-> [ = first shroud ] = second

But if you're not doing a huge overclock you can probably get by without shrouds. The 2nd fan should give you more noticeable results but you would probably see at least a 1-3c from shrouding them

Kyyyyuusshhu =)


----------



## Infinitegrim

I'm not using shrouds and my PC gets to 62C full load and I'm using really cheap fans.

How much does the Corsair fans move air wise?

I put two of THESE on it, and I have them on high.

Would the Corsair fans be better, the fans I linked to arent that loud either, and I dont care how load they are because my GTX 470 is much louder anyway.

I really dont want to get 38mm fans because that would cover my CPU and I would like the waterblock/pump visible.


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Infinitegrim* 
I'm not using shrouds and my PC gets to 62C full load and I'm using really cheap fans.

How much does the Corsair fans move air wise?

I put two of THESE on it, and I have them on high.

Would the Corsair fans be better, the fans I linked to arent that loud either, and I dont care how load they are because my GTX 470 is much louder anyway.

I really dont want to get 38mm fans because that would cover my CPU and I would like the waterblock/pump visible.

if you don't care how loud they are you should just choose to use the stock corsair fans with the h70


----------



## Infinitegrim

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
if you don't care how loud they are you should just choose to use the stock corsair fans with the h70

Are they better? I dont like the look of the black. My entire case is green lights everywhere!


----------



## slimbrady

from hardware heaven:

Two fans are supplied with the H70 and are 120x120x25mm models. These fans are rated for 1600-2000RPM operation and this can be selected by the user through installation of the two step down adapters which are bundled with the unit. Corsair rates the fans at 50.35-61.2 CFM, 1.8-2.3mm H20 static pressure (each) and 26-31.5dBA of noise per fan.

the static pressure is probably superior to those ones you linked though the cfm is pretty close. H70 is a pretty damn thick rad so it might make it worth it to either use the stock ones or find equal or greater ones you like the look of....not going to be 5$ though, heh


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Infinitegrim* 
Are they better? I dont like the look of the black. My entire case is green lights everywhere!

they are powerful and able to push some nice amount of air, if you dont like the black you can make it green by painting it


----------



## Infinitegrim

Painting them green isnt going to do this:


----------



## speerhammer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
Gents, I don't know why people keep trying to use a 25 mm fan on this. Even with my H50, I switched from S-Flex 1600 rpm to Ultra Kaze 35 mm 2000 rpm fans and have never looked back. They are inexpensive ($10.00), put out much better static pressure than you will ever get from a 25 mm fan (yes even the GTs) and are fairly quiet (you don't even need a fan controller), I hear a low pitched background sound but its certainly not loud or annoying (don't get the 3,000 rpm Ultra Kaze though because that IS loud and annoying). For $10.00 do yourselves a favor and try it out. You won't be going back to any 25 mm fan...oh and the performance increase for my H50 has been about 3-5 degrees.









Thanks for the heads up on another possibility!
I will definately consider this advice as well.
I'm looking at these air penetrators because of the directional flow being potentially solid in heatsink and radiator applications.
I'm suspecting that the results will be very similar to the stock fans just exceptionally quieter.

Also I'm willing to gamble because of several potential homes for these fans around the house.
If they don't fit the bill I'll use one to replace a louder fan on the intake and put the other to vent my HTPC.


----------



## speerhammer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Infinitegrim* 
Painting them green isnt going to do this:










True flashy lights = greatness!


----------



## slimbrady

solder/iron, super bright leds, switch to baybus = win with any fan =P


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Infinitegrim* 
Painting them green isnt going to do this:

Yate Loon medium or high speed LED fans better than even stock H70 and your choice of colors.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10..._D12SM-12.html


----------



## Infinitegrim

What about these, are they better then the ones you linked to?

I would want the high speed version of the yate fans because I have them on a controller

I wonder what effects putting the radiator in a bucket of dry ice would have on performance, or just a bucket of ice?

EDIT:

I put the two corsair fans pulling and one of my green LED's pushing. It is moving a lot of air now compared to just two fans before. Even with the increased air flow I didnt see any difference in temps idle or load. But cranking the AC in my room made my idle temps drop 4C!

I didnt notice any difference between AS5 and MX2, I have the noctua stuff coming this week, I'l have to see if that is any different


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Infinitegrim* 

I wonder what effects putting the radiator in a bucket of dry ice would have on performance, or just a bucket of ice?

nice vid here of just regular ice


You Tube





Quote:


Originally Posted by *Infinitegrim* 
EDIT:

I put the two corsair fans pulling and one of my green LED's pushing. It is moving a lot of air now compared to just two fans before. Even with the increased air flow I didnt see any difference in temps idle or load. But cranking the AC in my room made my idle temps drop 4C!

That's because unless the fans are counter-sunk you're not increasing the CFM any by stacking them like that. You might get a little better pressure but that is all.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Infinitegrim* 
What about these, are they better then the ones you linked to?

I would want the high speed version of the yate fans because I have them on a controller

I didnt notice any difference between AS5 and MX2, I have the noctua stuff coming this week, I'l have to see if that is any different

No the ones I linked are better and cheaper R4's I would never go with always had trouble with them their QC is awful and even if you get a good one they don't last long before they start making odd noises or go bad. Here is a link to high speed green LED ones too better than the medium for cooling









http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10..._D12SM-12.html

If you use the pull down and choose no change to the wires ie stock then you can get them for $3.95 each.

The two TIMs you tried did you let the AS5 cure properly(200 hours) I don't know what the cure time of MX2 is so can't say on that one. I didn't really notice a big drop when I got mine properly seated until mine had cured.


----------



## Infinitegrim

I guess I will go for the Yate Loon's

Quick question, may sound dumb but, are THESE the exact same ones you linked to?

I ask because they are $7 here and that is with wrap and skrinked, which at the place you linked would ve $12 total per fan


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Infinitegrim* 
I guess I will go for the Yate Loon's

Quick question, may sound dumb but, are THESE the exact same ones you linked to?

I ask because they are $7 here and that is with wrap and skrinked, which at the place you linked would ve $12 total per fan

Actually it is the same exact site and it depends on the sleeve configuration what the cost is stock with change is $3.95 any changes you make from there just increase the cost. They seem to have lots of different versions with their sleeves with the same fan so cost can vary a lot.


----------



## Kyushu

Slimbrady is that the h70 in the faaar right top 120mm fan slot in the haf 932 case? Can u keep the top 200mm fan installed and keep the h70 there?

If so, that friiiggiin rockswords!


----------



## Mebourne

First post here, but go ahead and add me to the club.

New build for me, see description below. Just wanted to get a few clarifications as far as temperatures and voltages are concerned. Main items are i7-930 D0 @ 3.73Ghz, x58 FTW3, H70 push/pull as rear intake, 6GB Corsair @ 1700mhz. Running LinX pack ( ~10min shown in screenshot) and Prime95 (~3 hour test), I have seen maximum temperatures of 76/72/73/70. Ambient @ 26 deg. I believe I heard temperatures of 85 for the cores were acceptable for 24/7 use and processor longevity, is this correct? The VREG has gotten into the high 60s during testing, is this safe and what is the maximum 24/7 temperature?

Are these core temps inline with the H70 and i7-930 around this 3.73Ghz OC or do I need to reseat it? Didn't want to overtighten the bracket, worried about bent pins. I plan on going to GT AP-15s when they get back in stock to cut down on the noise and gutting one of the stock corsair fans with the H70 to use as an intake shroud. Any other configuration recommendations? Also, I'll need to post an updated picture as the cable management has vastly improved.

EVGA X58 FTW 3 SLI E768 
Intel Core i7 930 D0 @ 3.8Ghz 
Corsair H70 - Push/Pull (Intake-High) 
2x EVGA Geforce 460 1GB EE Superclocked 
6GB Corsair DDR3 1600Mhz 8-8-8-24 + AF2 Cooling 
64GB Crucial C300 SATA 3 - 6.0Gb/s (OS Boot Drive) 
1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3 SATA 2 
Corsair HX850 
Thermaltake Element V

Thanks in advance for any help and advice.

-Mebourne


----------



## Silvos00

Someone talk some sense into me. I took my H50 rad out of the case to experiment with temps and positions. when I went to put it back in, I found myself confused how to mount it on the back as exhaust. I have 4 screws, and I can't mount the fan to the rad, and the rad to the case. I know it's do-able, I'm just out of it.


----------



## Infinitegrim

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silvos00*


Someone talk some sense into me. I took my H50 rad out of the case to experiment with temps and positions. when I went to put it back in, I found myself confused how to mount it on the back as exhaust. I have 4 screws, and I can't mount the fan to the rad, and the rad to the case. I know it's do-able, I'm just out of it.


I have two screws connecting the fan to the radiator in opposite corners, and then two screws connecting the fan to the case


----------



## Silvos00

Ya that's what I ended up doing...but I couldn't help but feel like that wasn't proper.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *speerhammer* 
Thanks for the heads up on another possibility!
I will definately consider this advice as well.
I'm looking at these air penetrators because of the directional flow being potentially solid in heatsink and radiator applications.
I'm suspecting that the results will be very similar to the stock fans just exceptionally quieter.

Also I'm willing to gamble because of several potential homes for these fans around the house.
If they don't fit the bill I'll use one to replace a louder fan on the intake and put the other to vent my HTPC.

When you're finished I'd be very curious to know what your temps are like for both idle and load (don't forget to state what ambient temp is) so I can compare to my H50 set-up. I assume you'll be at least at 3.8 ghz stock voltage? I use push pull with two shrouds intaking from my front drive bays, exhaust is out top and back. I'm trying to decide if it would be worth it to upgrade to the H70.


----------



## d33r

Anyone know what the size of the h70 tubing is? i want to buy some uv green anti-kink coils to go on over the black tubing to dress it up a bit (black tubing is borring and ugly)

like this (this guy has h50..he said 1/2 size worked..is h50 tubing the same width as h70s?)


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mebourne* 
First post here, but go ahead and add me to the club.

New build for me, see description below. Just wanted to get a few clarifications as far as temperatures and voltages are concerned. Main items are i7-930 D0 @ 3.73Ghz, x58 FTW3, H70 push/pull as rear intake, 6GB Corsair @ 1700mhz. Running LinX pack ( ~10min shown in screenshot) and Prime95 (~3 hour test), I have seen maximum temperatures of 76/72/73/70. Ambient @ 26 deg. I believe I heard temperatures of 85 for the cores were acceptable for 24/7 use and processor longevity, is this correct? The VREG has gotten into the high 60s during testing, is this safe and what is the maximum 24/7 temperature?

Are these core temps inline with the H70 and i7-930 around this 3.73Ghz OC or do I need to reseat it? Didn't want to overtighten the bracket, worried about bent pins. I plan on going to GT AP-15s when they get back in stock to cut down on the noise and gutting one of the stock corsair fans with the H70 to use as an intake shroud. Any other configuration recommendations? Also, I'll need to post an updated picture as the cable management has vastly improved.

EVGA X58 FTW 3 SLI E768
Intel Core i7 930 D0 @ 3.8Ghz
Corsair H70 - Push/Pull (Intake-High)
2x EVGA Geforce 460 1GB EE Superclocked
6GB Corsair DDR3 1600Mhz 8-8-8-24 + AF2 Cooling
64GB Crucial C300 SATA 3 - 6.0Gb/s (OS Boot Drive)
1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3 SATA 2
Corsair HX850
Thermaltake Element V

Thanks in advance for any help and advice.

-Mebourne

You have to SIGN-UP (Add your self) on your own








Seems funny new people always forget to Read the 1st page


----------



## Kyushu

Hey guys I think I already asked this, but does anyone know if I can mount the h50 or h70 in the front 5.25 drive bays on the cooler master haf x case?
I want to order my build tonight.


----------



## Mebourne

Quote:

You have to SIGN-UP (Add your self) on your own
Seems funny new people always forget to Read the 1st page
Alright added myself. Any thoughts on the temperatures?


----------



## speerhammer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
When you're finished I'd be very curious to know what your temps are like for both idle and load (don't forget to state what ambient temp is) so I can compare to my H50 set-up. I assume you'll be at least at 3.8 ghz stock voltage? I use push pull with two shrouds intaking from my front drive bays, exhaust is out top and back. I'm trying to decide if it would be worth it to upgrade to the H70. 









Ya i am at stock voltage currently. Not for long!


----------



## EduFurtado

Long story short, I need to take off the cover of my pump.

I have removed the 2 screws people say you need to remove - The right ones, and I am sure of it.
But I can't seem to take it off, no matter how hard I pull....
Is there a trick, or maybe I am doing something wrong...?

Btw, what are the rest of those screws for?
PMs with info are also welcome...


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EduFurtado* 
Long story short, I need to take off the cover of my pump.

I have removed the 2 screws people say you need to remove - The right ones, and I am sure of it.
But I can't seem to take it off, no matter how hard I pull....
Is there a trick, or maybe I am doing something wrong...?

Btw, what are the rest of those screws for?
PMs with info are also welcome...

The rest of the screws hold the block in place and block the water/mix from spilling all over.


----------



## EduFurtado

It was glue keeping me back from taking the cover out...

I will test it tomorrow to see where the leaking is comming from...


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EduFurtado* 
It was glue keeping me back from taking the cover out...

I will test it tomorrow to see where the leaking is comming from...

good to see u again man glad u finally got ur h50 cooling


----------



## Zavia

well i primed and occt'ed and linx'ed and i am stable at 4ghz with a 181*22 , i found i could get much lower voltages with the 22 clock instead of 191*21, seems i had a stubborn bclock. i think i'm at about 1.32 vcore and 1.375 qpi/vtt (even though block passed at 1.355.. needed to bump after multiplier step up.) now all that's left is for me to flash my 5850 so i can adjust the clock abit better, damnable power color voltage lock. but over all i am very happy with my machine how i have it atm. Just modded the case last night so i could mount the h50 radiator externaly and fit my fan and shroud for push/pull as exhaust, and i am getting a good 2 degree diff at top temps so now i idle at about 40 and peak at 70 under load. Good luck to all those 4ghz seekers, its a fun ride.


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zavia*


well i primed and occt'ed and linx'ed and i am stable at 4ghz with a 181*22 , i found i could get much lower voltages with the 22 clock instead of 191*21, seems i had a stubborn bclock. i think i'm at about 1.32 vcore and 1.375 qpi/vtt (even though block passed at 1.355.. needed to bump after multiplier step up.) now all that's left is for me to flash my 5850 so i can adjust the clock abit better, damnable power color voltage lock. but over all i am very happy with my machine how i have it atm. Just modded the case last night so i could mount the h50 radiator externaly and fit my fan and shroud for push/pull as exhaust, and i am getting a good 2 degree diff at top temps so now i idle at about 40 and peak at 70 under load. Good luck to all those 4ghz seekers, its a fun ride.


I know every chip is different, but give a lower multi a try. I have been tinkering with my OC for about 3 days now, and I seem to have a more stable OC and lower voltages at a multi of 21. I have mine at 200*21 Vcore 1.38 and QPI/VTT 1.375 with my ram running at 1600MHz at 1.5v, and all other voltages on auto. You have a similar board so you should be able to get similar overclocks to me. This D0 chip is a way better overclocker than my C0 i7 940.

This is all on stock H70 fans too btw. I'm going to try lowering my voltage when I change the fans and get better temps.


----------



## Zavia

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shapiror06*


I know every chip is different, but give a lower multi a try. I have been tinkering with my OC for about 3 days now, and I seem to have a more stable OC and lower voltages at a multi of 21. I have mine at 200*21 Vcore 1.38 and QPI/VTT 1.375 with my ram running at 1600MHz at 1.5v, and all other voltages on auto. You have a similar board so you should be able to get similar overclocks to me. This D0 chip is a way better overclocker than my C0 i7 940.

This is all on stock H70 fans too btw. I'm going to try lowering my voltage when I change the fans and get better temps.


If i try and get my bclock to 200 i have to push my qpi/vtt up a bunch, at 1.355 i am only bclock stable up t0 183 (i ran alot of tests) and even at 181 i ended up having to bump it once with multi up. so to get 200 i would need to bump my qpi/vtt to like 1.45+ and that raises my temps way further, and as i said i have been stable on all tests. i may shoot for it again some time soon as i have 2000mhz ram and would like to run them higher .. but then again with the 8* multiplier on the ram i run at 1448 and got a 6-7-6-16 timing to work on them at 1.66.

ps Oh i orinaly had a 181*21 and had it running while i waited for my fans, and was going for a 191 or 199*21 as i know the odd numbered multi's work better but when it came down to it i found the temps where just too high (even no ht) which is when i swaped to a 22 multi and tried it out with ht and non ht and found it cooler for me, maybe 22 works decently and it was just 20 multi that was a real ***** with the 720. 22 on the 730 seems to be running great, i will let you all know if it goes funky on me.


----------



## The Mad Mule

I'm looking at some reviews for the H70, and I expected more of a difference compared to the Intel stock cooler.










Maybe I'm out of the cooling loop more than I expected, but isn't that 7 degrees Celsius difference more like something you'd expect from an air cooling solution?


----------



## Wingzero

Sent mine to RMA today hopefully they will replace


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Mad Mule* 
I'm looking at some reviews for the H70, and I expected more of a difference compared to the Intel stock cooler.

*pic*

Maybe I'm out of the cooling loop more than I expected, but isn't that 7 degrees Celsius difference more like something you'd expect from an air cooling solution?

I think it's the intel stock cooler that comes with the 980x they tested. That one is actually pretty decent in performance mode. Though it's loud as hell.
Here's a pic of it:


----------



## Trademark

h70 Rock








CPU-Z 
new Overclock result
i7 930 4.0 Ghz @1.204v


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Trademark* 
h70 Rock








CPU-Z 
new Overclock result
i7 930 4.0 Ghz @1.204v










You ran the test wrong... where you see the word "Standard" change it to "Maximum" eitherway good temps


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
You ran the test wrong... where you see the word "Standard" change it to "Maximum" eitherway good temps









thx man the problem of using maximum it wont allowed u since i only got 6gb


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trademark*


thx man the problem of using maximum it wont allowed u since i only got 6gb










Dude don't be a waffle head.. It only uses the maximum of whats left of free memory space duhhhh!!









In other words its never going to use your installed memory size.. it only uses the max of your free space on the stressing level

sorry for being sarcastic.. but you probably would have noticed it if you can add your numbers that you see there... Windows 7 uses about almost 2gb... then wte is left is your free memory... and yours would be around 4gb available... so if you press "Maximum" if uses the 4gb you have left of free space


----------



## Wingzero

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Mad Mule*


I'm looking at some reviews for the H70, and I expected more of a difference compared to the Intel stock cooler.










Maybe I'm out of the cooling loop more than I expected, but isn't that 7 degrees Celsius difference more like something you'd expect from an air cooling solution?


Wouldnt trust that at all a stock intel one performs better than a h50?

Get outta town.


----------



## 1337LutZ

Add me to the club!


----------



## Saeid

Guys I am going to do some modding to my H70, I want to hear your comment on the difference in power of the pumps on H50 and H70, since H70 is smaller does it means its weaker?!


----------



## Silvos00

I doubt it. That being said, I have no idea







I doubt they would power down the pump of a newer model, after adding more stuff to it.


----------



## Crazy^^Red

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Mad Mule* 
I'm looking at some reviews for the H70, and I expected more of a difference compared to the Intel stock cooler.










Maybe I'm out of the cooling loop more than I expected, but isn't that 7 degrees Celsius difference more like something you'd expect from an air cooling solution?

This is pure bull****. I swear whoever made this review will chock on a spoon.Even a 9 years old and a dumb would know this is fake and gay.

Stock cooler performs better then the H50? Lol.


----------



## slimbrady

LOL at that cooler comparison. He probably forgot to change the TIM after he took off his stock cooler


----------



## The Mad Mule

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Crazy^^Red* 
This is pure bull****. I swear whoever made this review will chock on a spoon.Even a 9 years old and a dumb would know this is fake and gay.

Stock cooler performs better then the H50? Lol.

Had to quote this so I can remember how immature you are.

On topic, I'm simply poking around for any H50/H70 reviews, to make comparisons to the Hyper 212 Plus. But at this rate, I'm thinking it comes down to whether you want quiet cooling performance, or a lot of bang for your buck.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Crazy^^Red* 
This is pure bull****. I swear whoever made this review will chock on a spoon.Even a 9 years old and a dumb would know this is fake and gay.








Stock cooler performs better then the H50? Lol.


.....from the look's of this chart >>>> ONLY the H50 is showing of having 2(ea) fans for one of the testing's....

.....everything else for this chart is showing of *NO* fans . . . .







. . . . .







. . . . .







. . . . .







. . . . .









mr-Charles . . .









.


----------



## robjamar

skorpio said:


> A different way to install ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .And losing your factory warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attachment 132953
> 
> I want one of these fan filter for mine, any idea of where to get one?


----------



## speerhammer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
Very interested in the results...have 2 as well that should be arriving on Monday. If they're not up to the task, as I've heard they're more for directing a case's airflow than to be placed on radiators, I'll use them to get that stubborn cool air up past my GPU and perhaps the other as a top front intake.

@Kyushu - oh yea I forgot about that man, lol. Have been busy doing a case mod for my bro, sorry. Try to get to it today.

The SST-AP121's just showed up on my doorstep.
Details tonight!


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Crazy^^Red* 
This is pure bull****. I swear whoever made this review will chock on a spoon.Even a 9 years old and a dumb would know this is fake and gay.

Stock cooler performs better then the H50? Lol.

Now don't be too hasty. I think these could be very vaild figures. We're just missing a bit of detail. For example it would make perfectly good sense if the H50 had no fans, the pump wasn't plugged in and possibly the cooling had been drained from it, in which case the stock intel cooler may just be a few degrees cooler.


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:


Originally Posted by *speerhammer* 
The SST-AP121's just showed up on my doorstep.
Details tonight!

Do these light up?


----------



## speerhammer

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *Mark_K*   Do these light up?  
Sorry no lights just a tight directional flow.

Demonstrated here.
  
 You Tube  



 
 I'm testing them on the H70. 
If they fail they'll find a home in my HTPC.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:



Originally Posted by *speerhammer*


Sorry no lights just a tight directional flow.

Demonstrated here.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8m8fC809TK0
I'm testing them on the H70. 
If they fail they'll find a home in my HTPC.



......nice Demo . . .







. . . . interesting, as well ,









mr-Charles . . .









.


----------



## Kyushu

hey guys I want to mount the h50 in the front 5.25 drive bays in the haf x case. Do I need an extender for any of the wires? Do I need a pwm splitter? What would I need?
Links would be awesome, thanks.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kyushu* 
hey guys I want to mount the h50 in the front 5.25 drive bays in the haf x case. Do I need an extender for any of the wires? Do I need a pwm splitter? What would I need?
Links would be awesome, thanks.

I like running my cpu cooling on the very first molex connection of my 2nd rail, so I just use a split 3-pin to molex for the push and pull fans and don't really need extenders since my psu cables have ample length.

Just make sure if you do end up using extenders or splitters that they don't have built in resistors to lower power voltages like the ones that come with H-70.


----------



## Zavia

I have always wanted a raid setup so i could get redundancy and increased performance out of my storage hard drives, but it was always so much money to do, but i finally bit the bullet and have ordered 3x 2tb drives so i can setup a nice little raid5 and feel secure that i wont lose any data if i have a drive crash , yey.

Since 2tb drives are down around 99 bucks (i got some for 89 in a deal on amazon) its much more feasible these days.


----------



## Kyushu

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
I like running my cpu cooling on the very first molex connection of my 2nd rail, so I just use a split 3-pin to molex for the push and pull fans and don't really need extenders since my psu cables have ample length.

Just make sure if you do end up using extenders or splitters that they don't have built in resistors to lower power voltages like the ones that come with H-70.

Thanks slim, +rep.

With the 3-pin molex wire, will I see that wire?


----------



## Trademark

hi everyone i finally overclocked my i7 930 up to 4.0ghz for now .
my question is i did occt for 1hour (pass) intel burn test (pass) and now prime 95 13hours now so far so good my temp is only at 70 celcius max load. should i continue 24hours or i can stop now ??


----------



## BenReclused

Hi robjammer,

It's not the same as the one you indicated, but I ordered a nice little filter kit from

 Amazon.com
.

See ya, Milt

PS:
Here is a picture with it installed:


----------



## Wingzero

Thats near enough the temps i used to get on my h50 one fan.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kyushu* 
Thanks slim, +rep.

With the 3-pin molex wire, will I see that wire?

only as much as you want to see =) I have mine in top drive bays like you plan and just push out the little tabs to run my fan wires back behind to the psu. All of them are concealed between the right(back) side panel and the metal casing the mobo is mounted to. That is in haf 932 though, I haven't personally used a HAF X to tell you they are the same but I would think it is very similar.

You could use something like this: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...?tl=g2c251s634 if you still wanted to keep an eye on the RPM's of your fans or pump but that can get a little tricky to conceal since you don't have much length coming off the mobo header.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wingzero* 
Thats near enough the temps i used to get on my h50 one fan.

note its HT enable. at 4.0Ghz


----------



## Kyushu

Should I use ultra kaze 120x38mm fans or gentle typhoon AP-15s for my h50 push/pull setup? Reviews say the ultra kazes are pretty loud..

Do they move a lot more air than the GTs? Do they have more static pressure than the GTs?


----------



## Wingzero

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Trademark* 
note its HT enable. at 4.0Ghz

Yeah i used to run at around 4.1Ghz HT on idle temps around 38-45 tops.

Load would be from 67-76 ish. Max i ever saw it at that on prime after 2 hours was 78.


----------



## Trademark

Like I said man my temp is at 68 max right now on prime 14 hours now still going to try 24 hours


----------



## Trademark

If u can get scythe gentle typhoon ap15 instead of ap14 get that that's the best fan for h50 h70 push pull u can get right now


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Trademark* 
Like I said man my temp is at 68 max right now on prime 14 hours now still going to try 24 hours


......will this take 25 to 50 run's of LinX, as well ? ? ?

mr-Charles . . .









.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
......will this take 25 to 50 run's of LinX, as well ? ? ?

mr-Charles . . .









.

After 24 hours if I don't get errors that's it r me man time to test my new build on high end gaming


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kyushu* 
Should I use ultra kaze 120x38mm fans or gentle typhoon AP-15s for my h50 push/pull setup? Reviews say the ultra kazes are pretty loud..

Do they move a lot more air than the GTs? Do they have more static pressure than the GTs?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Trademark* 
If u can get scythe gentle typhoon ap15 instead of ap14 get that that's the best fan for h50 h70 push pull u can get right now

This is all relative to what exactly you're looking for. For me, I have a fan that is probably close to 60-70 db going almost all the time in the room my computer is in so I can barely hear my pc regardless. Hence, I go for moar PRESSUURRE! hehe. GTAP15 is the generally accepted winner for most people that has the most acceptable ratio of db/cfm/static to most of the people in here. Sounds like you're fairly concerned about the noise so I would say get the GT's. I just made some changes and put on new TIM so once that wears in I'm going to do a test on these Silverstone AP's I just got. They seem pretty quiet but I need to slap the stocks back on and run some numbers to see if they were worth it.


----------



## Trademark

decided to stop at 17hours im pretty sure its stable anyway heres the result.







[/IMG]


----------



## speerhammer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *speerhammer* 
I'm going to place 2 SILVERSTONE AP121 120mm Case Fans on my H70 in push pull exhaust.
The current config is stock fans at 1595 RPM (stock w/ resistor inline.)
Current idle temp 29C, 34C after running all passmark tests.

edited: sys detail doesnt indicate stock clock during the temp tests
I've not oc'd.

With the AP121 in push with stock corsair fan exhaust @ 1595RPM.
Idle temp 30C, 33C after running all passmark tests.
After running Starcraft II for 2 Hours I was at 44C.

I'm actually going to put the stock corsair back in there and run both corsairs at max speed (2K iirc). Will repeat the same ambient test, passmark and Starcraft II tests.


----------



## slimbrady

ambient temps don't tell a whole lot to the rest of us. do you have any stress testing apps? load temps are a little easier to relate to if you also inform us whether you are overclocked or not. here are a couple stress apps if you need: http://mersenneforum.org/gimps/p64v2511.zip - most commonly used http://www.youwatched.com/datajay/linx(0.64).7z - and this one will probably give you highest temp and tell you whether you're stable much faster


----------



## Walterrific

Installed this past weekend to replace a thermaltake V1 copper. Adjusted corsair H70 pump today to a more level position. You can see the corsair logo turned more to the right. Posted the pictures before the move. H70 pump aligned properly, and it is mounted on top of the case. The rad is packed between two delta 120mm x 25mm PWM fans. I also purchased two Scythe GT AP-15's, which i sent back to amazon today, to test against the Delta's. Delta's worked better, cooler temps, and noise level up to par w/the AP-15's when toned down to a 2200rpm level. Made a shroud out of a fan (120mm x 38mm) that I did not plan on using anymore. It is mounted between the rad and the pull fan.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Walterrific* 
Installed this weekend, adjusted corsair H70 pump today. Posted the pictures before the move because the pump was crooked and it bothered me.

ahh +rep for you, finally somebody else besides me(that I've actually seen a pic of) using 2x intakes from the bottom =)

Here's my 6 hour prime run with silverstone AP's in push/pull, going to hook up the stock yate's and see how they compare now










****in case you're wondering, since CoreTemp is about 20-30 degrees lower with no offset, I have the coretemp offsets set to match what I'm reading off my laptop using the asus ROG connect - steadily lower temps on it for some reason...still haven't been able to confirm which one is the more accurate.


----------



## Walterrific

Actually Slim, thats the shroud, and only using one intake. The other fan is on top of the rad. I was actually editing my post, and saw your response after.


----------



## Siegfried262

Morning Gents, I just purchased an H50 from a fellow forum member and plan on running push/pull with AP-14's









However, I've been having trouble tracking down the right screw-size. Do you guys know what size and type of screw I'd have to grab at a hardware store in order to mount a second fan? Many thanks and I'll have a pic up once it's in my case.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Walterrific* 
Actually Slim, thats the shroud, and only using one intake. The other fan is on top of the rad. I was actually editing my post, and saw your response after.

No, I meant at the bottom of your case =)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Siegfried262* 
Morning Gents, I just purchased an H50 from a fellow forum member and plan on running push/pull with AP-14's









However, I've been having trouble tracking down the right screw-size. Do you guys know what size and type of screw I'd have to grab at a hardware store in order to mount a second fan? Many thanks and I'll have a pic up once it's in my case.


they are 6/32 bolts...the length is up to whether you have a shroud and the width of your fans.....fyi 6/32 2"1/4 work for 25-30mm(ish) fan with shroud and through a filter and case.


----------



## sendblink23

OP Update the main thread post... include the screw sizes for people who want to use shrouds or fans that are 25mm or 38mm etc.... that info will help people not to keep asking the same question that much.

Make sure you add it inside *FAQ section


----------



## Siegfried262

Many thanks.

So a 6/32 2"1/4 would be good for a standard 25mm depth fan?

Sorry to ask a stupid question but I was having issues finding the answer through google and I figured this would be the perfect place to know for sure.


----------



## B-roca

Hmmm I'm really contemplating getting an asetec 550LC or an H50 once I have the money because my arctic free pro is sooo loud


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Siegfried262* 
Many thanks.

So a 6/32 2"1/4 would be good for a standard 25mm depth fan?

Sorry to ask a stupid question but I was having issues finding the answer through google and I figured this would be the perfect place to know for sure.

with a shroud yes...little room leftover as well for washers/filter. 1"1/4 is what they come with and should be used if you are only mounting a fan.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *B-roca* 
Hmmm I'm really contemplating getting an asetec 550LC or an H50 once I have the money because my arctic free pro is sooo loud


H-70 is getting under $100 USD now. It is worth it if you don't already have the H-50. Even if you do have the H50(me hehe) I think it's still worth it.


----------



## B-roca

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
H-70 is getting under $100 USD now. It is worth it if you don't already have the H-50. Even if you do have the H50(me hehe) I think it's still worth it.

Honestly I don't see why because for the price of a H70 I could get the Asetec with the 240 rad and anyway I think I like the Asetec 550 because its $50 NZ cheaper than the h50 and they are pretty much exactly the same thing


----------



## slimbrady

Hmm that is quite interesting. Hadn't really heard of the asetec model but damn it looks like an exact clone. In fact, they are far too similar to not be using the same production specs >< I see they are partnered with corsair and promote the H series on their own website hmm....Well of course do whatever you like. I like corsair and they have never treated me(or anyone I've heard of) wrong. Do you know if asetec will replace your entire PC if it's damaged from a leaky unit? Less than $100 for liquid cooling cpu and basically guarantees of quality are worth it by far to me so, personally, I'd save the 20-40$ somewhere else in my life^^ But definitively do what you think is right man^^


----------



## Tempest001

What are the best fans to run with an h50? I was thinking of getting 2 gental typhoons 1850rpm versions... or maybe the xigmatek orange fans with white LED's... just cause they look pretty sweet. But I want the best combination of performance/noise.


----------



## Kyushu

Tempest the gentle typhoons are the best for what u want.

Hey guys I'm getting the h50 push/pull with shroud. Will get the 6/32 2" 1/4 screws. Should I get fan silencers? I think it might help with noise, is it worth it? They are $4 each, I'll be mounting my h50 in the front 5.25 bays with zip ties. So I think I'll need 3 silencers if I get them.

My hardware store only has 6/32 2" 1/2... ><. Should I use the silencers and 1 or 2 nuts (let the jokes begin) to get a good fit?


----------



## Wingzero

Yate Loons are meant to be teh pwnz0rz


----------



## Kyushu

Heard the yate loons were loud... That true?


----------



## Walterrific

slimbrady said:


> No, I meant at the bottom of your case =)
> 
> Doh! i was on my 3rd glass of scotch when i read that last night.


----------



## Wingzero

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kyushu* 
Heard the yate loons were loud... That true?

Not the loudest but not the quietest to be fair.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kyushu* 
Tempest the gentle typhoons are the best for what u want.

Hey guys I'm getting the h50 push/pull with shroud. Will get the 6/32 2" 1/4 screws. Should I get fan silencers? I think it might help with noise, is it worth it? They are $4 each, I'll be mounting my h50 in the front 5.25 bays with zip ties. So I think I'll need 3 silencers if I get them.

My hardware store only has 6/32 2" 1/2... ><. Should I use the silencers and 1 or 2 nuts (let the jokes begin) to get a good fit?

You won't be able to use nuts since you can't access the ends of the bolts as they will be sunk into the radiator. You could put a gnarly stack of washers i guess...at the opposite end of the rad of course so you don't have gaps in the airflow.
What kind of silencers are you talking about?

Also, be careful with over-sized screws and bolts as over-tightening them could lead to a radiator puncture










Walterrific said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *slimbrady*
> No, I meant at the bottom of your case =)
> 
> Doh! i was on my 3rd glass of scotch when i read that last night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol np, you were probably thinking what an ass hahahhah shroud you fool!
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kyushu*
> Heard the yate loons were loud... That true?
> 
> I would place them in the 30ish DB range(don't have specs and it's too early for googling). I have 2 from H50's I had and 2 more from the H70 that I'm using in various locations for now and it's pretty damn loud, lol. Not like a pabst or delta of course though...just kind of whiny


----------



## shapiror06

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=263602_263622

Interesting... I know Asetek is the OEM manufacturer for the H50 and H70, but this looks pretty cool. And not too badly priced. Same as the H50, but with a dual 120mm radiator (240mm I guess?). I'm betting this would do pretty well with 2 push fans and 2 pull fans.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wingzero* 
Thats near enough the temps i used to get on my h50 one fan.

btw heres my normal temp
the one i showed was after i run 2-3 stress test.
plus its been 3days since i install the h70 so maybe the shin-etsu hasnt been 100% cure when i did the prime 95. for 17hours
anyway h70 rock








quick video of the fresh build


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=utHTR98Vl9o





havent done 100% neat cable management going to do that once my CM HAF X new top panel/front panel kit arrived.


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shapiror06* 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=263602_263622

Interesting... I know Asetek is the OEM manufacturer for the H50 and H70, but this looks pretty cool. And not too badly priced. Same as the H50, but with a dual 120mm radiator (240mm I guess?). I'm betting this would do pretty well with 2 push fans and 2 pull fans.

Wait that's $90.00 without fans!
Also the pump is the height of a H50.
I would just get the H70.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kyushu* 
Tempest the gentle typhoons are the best for what u want.

Hey guys I'm getting the h50 push/pull with shroud. Will get the 6/32 2" 1/4 screws. Should I get fan silencers? I think it might help with noise, is it worth it? They are $4 each, I'll be mounting my h50 in the front 5.25 bays with zip ties. So I think I'll need 3 silencers if I get them.

My hardware store only has 6/32 2" 1/2... ><. Should I use the silencers and 1 or 2 nuts (let the jokes begin) to get a good fit?

u be so happy with Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 going to install mine soon once my new top panel/front panel comes in. and do a better cable management on my new build


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mark_K* 
Wait that's $90.00 without fans!
Also the pump is the height of a H50.
I would just get the H70.

Agree


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kyushu* 
Should I use the silencers and 1 or 2 nuts (let the jokes begin) to get a good fit?

You could always get the bigger screws/bolts and cut them down to size instead of using nuts that's what I have done. Fan silencers if you don't mind BRIGHT GREEN those are cheap and directly from thermaltake I got 4 total cause I used two shrouds.


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mark_K* 
Wait that's $90.00 without fans!
Also the pump is the height of a H50.
I would just get the H70.

I already have an H70 and I'm very pleased with it. I just thought it was interesting and I would be curious to see how it performs with 4 fans on it. I have no intentions on getting one.

And if someone had extra fans laying around they weren't using, it might be worth it.


----------



## evilviking

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mastercontrol* 
i did the same thing, only I have 2 fans intaking, a 4 inch shroud made out of a cut-up disc stacker container and then the stock fan; all mounted in 3 drive slots which were unused in my PC.

Could mastercontrol or anyone else answer this for me?

I'm looking to better secure my H50 front intake system. Currently, it's placed a bit closer to the front (so the tubes are a little taunt) and held in place with zip-ties. Where could I get some of those L-brackets? A few of those with some shrouds would help me secure my H50 radiator better and it would probably help drop my temps a little as well.


----------



## Cee

Add me too









Temps now and before..

V8 Lowest/Highest idle : 37/40 C
V8 Lowest/Highest load : 54/60 C

H70 Lowest/Highest idle : 37/43 C
H70 Lowest/Highest load : 51/54 C

Yes, I am pleased with my H70.


----------



## michintom

Added myself








H50 push / pull setup with two xiggy dark knight fans.


----------



## The Mad Mule

Quote:



Originally Posted by *michintom*


Added myself

H50 push / pull setup with two xiggy dark knight fans.










Hey neat, you have the same CPU as me. What temp differences are you getting compared to your last cooler (I'm assuming it was the stock Intel one)?


----------



## michintom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Mad Mule*


Hey neat, you have the same CPU as me. What temp differences are you getting compared to your last cooler (I'm assuming it was the stock Intel one)?


Never had the stock cooler so I really can't compare it. I had the xigmatek dark knight previously and the temp difference is only about 10c in full load.


----------



## bluedevil

Mmmmm thought about upgrading to a H70 over my H50. Currently sitting at 37C idle @ 4ghz with 1.34v.


----------



## Sorian

I've been looking for a place to get the 2 Scythe GT AP-15s, but can't seem to find them in stock anywhere. Does anyone know where I could find them? Or are there any recommendations for other fans of equal performance?


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sorian*


I've been looking for a place to get the 2 Scythe GT AP-15s, but can't seem to find them in stock anywhere. Does anyone know where I could find them? Or are there any recommendations for other fans of equal performance?


Link: This site said says they're "Closed-Out." Does that hint towards them being discontinued?

Link: In stock

Link: In stock

Link: No real stock info, in stock?


----------



## PcKiller

I have a Asetek 570LX with a 240MM Rad. I hear that they are by the same company?


----------



## michintom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PcKiller*


I have a Asetek 570LX with a 240MM Rad. I hear that they are by the same company?


Asetek is the one that makes it for corsair and alienware


----------



## slimbrady

Has anyone heard of how good or poor asetek has treated customers who have suffered damage from a leaking unit or just general company customer service? I have always been impressed by that aspect of Corsair.


----------



## Sorian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shapiror06* 
Link: This site said says they're "Closed-Out." Does that hint towards them being discontinued?

Link: In stock

Link: In stock

Link: No real stock info, in stock?


All those stores seem a bit sketchy to me, and have mixed ratings. Not sure how much I'd trust them, but I guess if they're my only option, I'll give it a shot.

Anyone have any experience with these sites?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sorian* 
All those stores seem a bit sketchy to me, and have mixed ratings. Not sure how much I'd trust them, but I guess if they're my only option, I'll give it a shot.

Anyone have any experience with these sites?

Based on the ratings I see for any of those sites I wouldn't risk it. No fun if they steal/sell CC info. Better to wait for a reputable site to get them back in stock.


----------



## Triggaaar

Wow what a thread!

Apart from the DIY options (cool air in from the front), has anyone worked ot an ideal setup for the H70 (or H50) with the CM 690ii?

I'm staring building my first decent PC as soon as I finish typing this. It's an i7-930, inside a CM 690ii Advanced with the Corsair H70.

I've searched the forum and this thread and reached a couple of conclusions:
1: I'll want to swap the standard corsair fans for something the the Scythe GTs, or I may go for some Silverstone FM123s (I've seen more about them in the UK than the US, but they have good static pressure).
2: How I set up the fans on the CM 690ii is crucial.

It's this second point I'd like to ask a question on (asking here because using the H70 affects case airflow choice).
Standard recommendations:
Front, Bottom & Side as In take
Top & Rear as Out take
However, that's 5 fans in, and 3 out. It does seem that this configuration would have cool air entering from the top side fan, and immediately leaving through the back fan, and adjacent top fan. This would be good if the H70 was in one of those positions, but the adjacent extraction fan would still be taking some of the nice cool air.

I'm really at a loss as to the best setup, and any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks


----------



## PcKiller

Quote:


Originally Posted by *michintom* 
Asetek is the one that makes it for corsair and alienware









So I guess I get to join the Club Then?


----------



## PcKiller

This is how I have my PC setup for the 240MM Rad. The tower has 6 spaces for fans.

2 120MM front of tower incoming

1 120MM Bottom of tower incoming

1 230MM tower side incoming

all this bring in cool air.

The fans listed below are for exhaust.

1 120MM back of tower near top,

2 120MM fans mounted on the bottom on the 240MM Rad that is mounted on the top inside of tower,

1 230MM fan mounted on the top of the tower on top of the 240MM Rad. I get the push/pull effect having it this way.

Hope this helps.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Triggaaar* 
Wow what a thread!

Apart from the DIY options (cool air in from the front), has anyone worked ot an ideal setup for the H70 (or H50) with the CM 690ii?

I'm staring building my first decent PC as soon as I finish typing this. It's an i7-930, inside a CM 690ii Advanced with the Corsair H70.

I've searched the forum and this thread and reached a couple of conclusions:
1: I'll want to swap the standard corsair fans for something the the Scythe GTs, or I may go for some Silverstone FM123s (I've seen more about them in the UK than the US, but they have good static pressure).
2: How I set up the fans on the CM 690ii is crucial.

It's this second point I'd like to ask a question on (asking here because using the H70 affects case airflow choice).
Standard recommendations:
Front, Bottom & Side as In take
Top & Rear as Out take
However, that's 5 fans in, and 3 out. It does seem that this configuration would have cool air entering from the top side fan, and immediately leaving through the back fan, and adjacent top fan. This would be good if the H70 was in one of those positions, but the adjacent extraction fan would still be taking some of the nice cool air.

I'm really at a loss as to the best setup, and any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Front and side should be intake(bottom too) top and back should be exhaust. You should always have more air going in the case then out thus creating a positive pressure case so air is pushed out all the little cracks and crevices. If you exhaust more air then you take in creating a negative pressure case then your case is sucking in air dirt/dust etc. in all the little cracks and crevices and that's bad.


----------



## Nolander

I have recently cleaned my H50 for the first time and because I had it as intake (as per the instructions), there was an enormous amount of dust collected on the radiator. Luckily my g/f loves to clean dust and she was able to remove it all with her tweezers. I have changed the configuration to exhaust and changed 2 other 120 mm fans for intake. Hopefully this will mitigate the dust problem.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Nolander* 
I just installed my H50 and I am enjoying the results.

Recently my TRUE has been unable to keep my Q6600 temps under 70 C and I was forced to decrease my OC to 3.2 Ghz. Now with my H50 I am once again able to achieve 3.6 Ghz with my first quad core processor. I followed the instructions that came with the unit and I am presently pulling air into the case with the two CoolerMaster Red LED (2000 rpm, 90CFM, 19 dBA) fans. My temps have decreased by approximately 11 degrees C. Of course I have re-arranged some of the fans which are now used as exhaust. I have the Coolermaster H50 fans as intake as well as the side window fan, and I have the top 200 mm and two front 120 mm as exhaust.

Here are my results (Keep in mind I am pushing 1.45 Vcore) :

Load










Idle


----------



## bajer29

i just got an h50 today but my new mobo has not arrived yet... i am soooo stoked to OC the crap out of my 965be!!!! anyone have any h50 OC success stories?


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bajer29* 
i just got an h50 today but my new mobo has not arrived yet... i am soooo stoked to OC the crap out of my 965be!!!! anyone have any h50 OC success stories?

I can't relate to your 965be, but I'm currently in the process of stabilizing the voltages for my OC. On my H70, I got my i7 930 to 4.2GHz, and 8GB of G.Skill Trident DDR3-2000 running at 1600MHz with 7-8-7-20 1T timings. I will post my CPU-Z validation when I get it stable.


----------



## hesho

first i should mention i am NOT a part of this club (i won't be for awhile). This is kinda an odd question i have about these coolers.

Now, water cooling normally requires to refill the liquid eventually, won't these coolers eventually need to have their liquid refilled as well?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hesho* 
first i should mention i am NOT a part of this club (i won't be for awhile). This is kinda an odd question i have about these coolers.

Now, water cooling normally requires to refill the liquid eventually, won't these coolers eventually need to have their liquid refilled as well?

These are a sealed system so there is no way for the liquid to evaporate from it so no need to refill.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Triggaaar* 
Wow what a thread!

Apart from the DIY options (cool air in from the front), has anyone worked ot an ideal setup for the H70 (or H50) with the CM 690ii?

I'm staring building my first decent PC as soon as I finish typing this. It's an i7-930, inside a CM 690ii Advanced with the Corsair H70.

I've searched the forum and this thread and reached a couple of conclusions:
1: I'll want to swap the standard corsair fans for something the the Scythe GTs, or I may go for some Silverstone FM123s (I've seen more about them in the UK than the US, but they have good static pressure).
2: How I set up the fans on the CM 690ii is crucial.

It's this second point I'd like to ask a question on (asking here because using the H70 affects case airflow choice).
Standard recommendations:
Front, Bottom & Side as In take
Top & Rear as Out take
However, that's 5 fans in, and 3 out. It does seem that this configuration would have cool air entering from the top side fan, and immediately leaving through the back fan, and adjacent top fan. This would be good if the H70 was in one of those positions, but the adjacent extraction fan would still be taking some of the nice cool air.

I'm really at a loss as to the best setup, and any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks

I have used the FM123's and can verify they do have some great pressure. So far, they are the strongest fans I have found though I'm currently using some Silverstone Air Penetrators that don't do quite as well but aren't quite as loud either. One tip I have for you if you get the 123's is to have a couple jumpers around in case you don't want to use the included fan controller. You will need to place a jumper on the connector for the controller or the fans won't run(thought mine were DOA at first).

As far as placement goes....the H70 has noticeably shorter hoses than the H50(I wasn't able to mount my H70 quite as securely or as near the front for front intake as I was my H50) so keep that in mind when you're thinking about placement. You will most likely see very little difference(1c~3c max), if any, from moving the radiator around, though I suppose you may hear one or two people tell of it making more of an impact, so I would just focus more on streamlining your case's airflow.
I don't have any personal experience with that case but it looks like it has pretty good flow so long as you're managing the cables well. Just keep in mind hot air rises and fighting nature only shortens the life of your components. =)
If you're mounting it on bottom(not sure the H70 will reach without a few shrouds) I would definitely consider using a filter in front of the fan since that's going to see the most dust out of any of the mounting positions. Personally I like front as it keeps my hoses closer to being level and it's got to be easier on the pump, though I'm sure it's not that big of a deal. What did you mean by this a do it yourself option?


----------



## Santorican

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Willhemmens* 
Finaly got all the kit.










The Kit all layed out ready.










Leak testing with the Res's stock barbs.










Before the UV dye went in.










After the Dye.

A poor video of adding the Dye,

YouTube- Adding UV dye to my Watercooling System

As you can see the bottow pipe coming off the Res is a little long so i will be re-routing it and cutting it down abit.

Better photo's tomorrow, more Dye and adding the Ultra Kaze 3000 back as a push.

What do you guys think?

Wouldn't it have been better to put the reservoir on the outside of the case? Wouldn't the water temps be higher while keeping the it inside the case?


----------



## dknightz

I recently bought the H70 and installed in on my newly built gaming rig. After 30 minutes or so of being installed I started to hear a noise. It sounded similar to when a cable is slightly making contact with a case fan or something. I quickly opened the side of the PC case and realized it was the pump making the noise. At one point I put the case to lay on its side for a while and upon placing it back up the noise went away for about a minute and then came back to haunt me ever since.

I keep reading the water pump is supposed to be silent or near silent. I read people have complained about fan noise, but not the pump noise. Is this product defective? Is there a fix or should I RMA? It's keeping my CPU cool, but the noise is loud, louder than the fans in fact.

It sounds like a hair cutting machine.


----------



## muels7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dknightz* 
I recently bought the H70 and installed in on my newly built gaming rig. After 30 minutes or so of being installed I started to hear a noise. It sounded similar to when a cable is slightly making contact with a case fan or something. I quickly opened the side of the PC case and realized it was the pump making the noise. At one point I put the case to lay on its side for a while and upon placing it back up the noise went away for about a minute and then came back to haunt me ever since.

I keep reading the water pump is supposed to be silent or near silent. I read people have complained about fan noise, but not the pump noise. Is this product defective? Is there a fix or should I RMA? It's keeping my CPU cool, but the noise is loud, louder than the fans in fact.

It sounds like a hair cutting machine.









Sounds like there is some air in the line, not a problem with the pump


----------



## slimbrady

agreed, try tapping on the hoses


----------



## reaper~

A lot of people reported hearing that "clicking" noise coming from their pump (mine went away after awhile). Try like the others said and if it still bothers you then maybe it's time for RMA.

Might wanna post your problem over in Corsair's support forum so that they're aware of your situation and maybe they can help expedite the RMA process. Good luck.


----------



## dknightz

Thanks, guys. I'll see if tapping the hoses and maybe a different position works. If it doesn't work then hopefully it goes away before tomorrow, or I'll RMA it.


----------



## Triggaaar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Front and side should be intake(bottom too) top and back should be exhaust.

Yes, that's what I was hoping for, but...
I don't want the exhausts on the top stealing air from the H70 and
I don't want air going from the GC into the H70.

Quote:

You should always have more air going in the case then out thus creating a positive pressure case so air is pushed out all the little cracks and crevices.
Good point, thanks.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
I have used the FM123's and can verify they do have some great pressure. So far, they are the strongest fans I have found

Thanks - they do appear to be great fans for radiators. Perhaps only because they are less well known, they are not the favourite fan for H50/H70 users on the Corsair forum - there are so many recommendations for the Scythe Gentle Typhoons that it would feel risky to get anything else. It's possible that the Silverstones could be better, but I am sure that the Scythes would be a good choice.

Quote:

As far as placement goes....the H70 has noticeably shorter hoses than the H50(I wasn't able to mount my H70 quite as securely or as near the front for front intake as I was my H50)
With all the recommendations for both the H70 and CM 690ii adv, I was surprised that there's actually only one place (rear, top) it will fit (without modding).

Quote:

so I would just focus more on streamlining your case's airflow.
I don't have any personal experience with that case but it looks like it has pretty good flow so long as you're managing the cables well. Just keep in mind hot air rises and fighting nature only shortens the life of your components. =)
That's my problem. Keeping good streamlined airflow would (I imagine) mean air in at the bottom/front, past the hot GC, and into the H70, thus using (some) hot air to cool the cpu.

Quote:

What did you mean by this a do it yourself option?
There are some wonderful DIY ducting (boxing out of clear perspex) examples - mounting an H50 at the top, front, as exhaust, and having cool air sucked in through the spare 5.25" drive bays and fed to the H50. That's more than I could easily do.

Thanks for the suggestions, I appreciate it


----------



## Infinitegrim

I have some dry ice and I was wondering what the best method to place it on the radiator would be?


----------



## XtachiX

huuuh?!?!
why do you wanna place dry ice in rad?


----------



## clubfoot

Made some changes, went from rear pull-push to top push-pull for a nice overall improvement in temps. Note very little if any change in cpu temp in blend and small FFT, probaly due to mounting rad on 180 top fan







. Biggest changes were to internal chips sb, nb and pw temps!

Vc = 1.33 (BIOS)
gpu = 47 (before) 45(after)

Before idle, blend and Small FFT:
cpu = 34 -62 -66
mb = 31 - 31 - 32
sb = 44 - 45 - 45
nb = 52 - 59 - 62
pw = 34 - 46 - 52

After idle, blend and small FFT:
cpu cores blend: 56-55-55-55
cpu cores small FFT: 57-56-5-55

cpu = 32 -63 - 64
mb = 27 - 27 - 27
sb = 39 - 39 - 40
nb = 49 -50 - 53
pw = 31 - 45 - 46


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *clubfoot* 
Made some changes, went from rear pull-push to top push-pull for a nice overall improvement in temps. Note very little if any change in cpu temp in blend and small FFT, probaly due to mounting rad on 180 top fan







. Biggest changes were to internal chips sb, nb and pw temps!

Vc = 1.33 (BIOS)
gpu = 47 (before) 45(after)

Before idle, blend and Small FFT:
cpu = 34 -62 -66
mb = 31 - 31 - 32
sb = 44 - 45 - 45
nb = 52 - 59 - 62
pw = 34 - 46 - 52

After idle, blend and small FFT:
cpu cores blend: 56-55-55-55
cpu cores small FFT: 57-56-5-55

cpu = 32 -63 - 64
mb = 27 - 27 - 27
sb = 39 - 39 - 40
nb = 49 -50 - 53
pw = 31 - 45 - 46

The biggest problem with the H50/H70 is that it takes air flow off of the motherboard like a traditional heatsink and fan would provide.

Nice find!


----------



## slimbrady

yeah it's funny you say that I just noticed my that my corsair RAM cooler(the dual small fan one for dominator ram) fits pretty much perfectly if I secure it to the top of H70 block and bottom of the NB - which is way bertter to me than sticking it on my RAM since the ram's getting hit with a more direct flow from the front intake.


----------



## Yokes29

Has anyone tried using those Areocool Shark fans on their radiators? Looking at the spec's and they seem really good...maybe too good. Thinking of replacing my SFLEX G's with them. Any thoughts? i've had no luck posting in the "air cooling" section about these fans


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yokes29* 
Has anyone tried using those Areocool Shark fans on their radiators? Looking at the spec's and they seem really good...maybe too good. Thinking of replacing my SFLEX G's with them. Any thoughts? i've had no luck posting in the "air cooling" section about these fans









Probably a bad choice. They have poor static pressure, 1.273 mmH2O seen here. Those are probably VERY similar to the stock fans.


----------



## slimbrady

yeah the only thing impressive about those is their purported lifespan of 150k hours. can't think how many years that is off the top off my head but it's a few....probably longer than you'll have whatever cooling solution you use. Zalman better do better than lifespan if they wanna attract enthusiasts in this fast paced market, heh.

Any other news on good fans just released or soon to be released? I check around a lot but don't have very good sources.


----------



## miahallen

I'm pretty impressed with my H70....I've provide some performance #s in a week or two when my review goes live




































Full build log here:
http://forums.losias.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=373


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
yeah the only thing impressive about those is their purported lifespan of 150k hours. can't think how many years that is off the top off my head but it's a few....probably longer than you'll have whatever cooling solution you use. Zalman better do better than lifespan if they wanna attract enthusiasts in this fast paced market, heh.

Any other news on good fans just released or soon to be released? I check around a lot but don't have very good sources.

150k hours is about 17 years but if they have nil on static pressure that doesn't do any good if you hook them to a radiator.

So far they are not selling them in the US yet or under the Scythe name even yet I have been excited to see Scythe GentleTyphoon 2150rpm and 3000rpm fans. I would love to have a set of3k's and a fan controller. I know that the GT 1850's don't click when they are lower than full rpm having a 3k fan would be awesome if it was the same.


----------



## Zavia

Well i learned once again that you should be patient when playing with your parts... i had a loose wire hanging and just clipping the edge of a fan making a noise, so i decided to just tuck those pesky things up over another fan edge with a pair of scissors, well one little opps later and 4 shards of panaflo fan went a flying... Oh well at least i have a 38mm shroud now lol.


----------



## MicahFett

I finally have my system up and running! No OC yet but everything fit together and working properly.

I ended up mounting my H70 with the rad and push/shroud inside of the case and the pull fan on the outside. My room ambient temps are about 26C and my computer operates idle @ 28-30C. After 2 hours of SCII or Borderlands it hits about 40C.

I've attached some pics for reference. I know I need to do some cable management in the bottom of my case.

Edit: Using stock fans atm. A bit loud, but I never notice them while gaming.


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MicahFett* 
I finally have my system up and running! No OC yet but everything fit together and working properly.

I ended up mounting my H70 with the rad and push/shroud inside of the case and the pull fan on the outside. My room ambient temps are about 26C and my computer operates idle @ 28-30C. After 2 hours of SCII or Borderlands it hits about 40C.

I've attached some pics for reference. I know I need to do some cable management in the bottom of my case.

Edit: Using stock fans atm. A bit loud, but I never notice them while gaming.

WOW nice job.

This is exactly how I am going to install mine also!
Can you tell me:
1. What size is the shroud you used and where you got it from?
2. What sixe bolts did you use and where did you get them from?

Thanks

P.S. I have a Lian Li also

Mark


----------



## Triggaaar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MicahFett* 
I ended up mounting my H70 with the rad and push/shroud inside of the case


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mark_K* 
Can you tell me:
1. What size is the shroud you used and where you got it from?

The shroud will help with airflow in the centre of the rad, but I presume that ideally you'd have a square shroud, to also improve airflow in the corners.


----------



## MicahFett

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mark_K* 
WOW nice job.

This is exactly how I am going to install mine also!
Can you tell me:
1. What size is the shroud you used and where you got it from?
2. What sixe bolts did you use and where did you get them from?

Thanks

P.S. I have a Lian Li also

Mark

I scrapped a 120mm fan that I got from a dead computer at work. I just gutted it. It's just over 35mm thickness with the little foam-rubber double sided tape that I used to seal the connections b/w it and my push fan.

For the Bolts, I had a difficult time finding the 6/32 spec bolts that the H70 uses. I did manage to get some 2 3/4" bolts at Home Depot, but couldn't find anything longer. I checked and found some bolts listed as 1/8" that looked to be nearly identical thread when compared to the supplied 6/32. I bought a set of those at the 3" I needed to make the traverse through the shroud. They worked perfectly.

I also purchased the 2 3/4" 6/32 bolts b/c I needed a bit of extra length to get from the outer fan to the radiator. However, there was some extra room and you'll see in the pics that I just used some random nuts to act as fat washers to take up the slack.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Triggaaar* 
The shroud will help with airflow in the centre of the rad, but I presume that ideally you'd have a square shroud, to also improve airflow in the corners.

Yeah, ideally a square shroud would be best, but a gutted fan is a decent improvisational shroud. Asking the IT department at work, or someone who works with computers at a highschool/college is a good way to get discarded case fans (and cases) to scrap for free shrouds.


----------



## Squeets

Got mine in August... Only 1 fan pushing into case and out the top...

Though I don't OC









I bought it because I think it is pretty and heatsinks are too big


----------



## XtachiX

paint it black from inside =P
you will be much more pleased with it


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MicahFett* 
I scrapped a 120mm fan that I got from a dead computer at work. I just gutted it. It's just over 35mm thickness with the little foam-rubber double sided tape that I used to seal the connections b/w it and my push fan.

For the Bolts, I had a difficult time finding the 6/32 spec bolts that the H70 uses. I did manage to get some 2 3/4" bolts at Home Depot, but couldn't find anything longer. I checked and found some bolts listed as 1/8" that looked to be nearly identical thread when compared to the supplied 6/32. I bought a set of those at the 3" I needed to make the traverse through the shroud. They worked perfectly.

I also purchased the 2 3/4" 6/32 bolts b/c I needed a bit of extra length to get from the outer fan to the radiator. However, there was some extra room and you'll see in the pics that I just used some random nuts to act as fat washers to take up the slack.

Yeah, ideally a square shroud would be best, but a gutted fan is a decent improvisational shroud. Asking the IT department at work, or someone who works with computers at a highschool/college is a good way to get discarded case fans (and cases) to scrap for free shrouds.

Okay, I went to home depot and could not find any 2 3/4" 6/32 bolts. they guy that worked there said they dont care them as they are too long and would not hold up?

I then said how about 1/8 by 3" and he said thats the same as the 6/32 that he just said he didnt have......

where can I buy these bolts?


----------



## MicahFett

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mark_K* 
Okay, I went to home depot and could not find any 2 3/4" 6/32 bolts. they guy that worked there said they dont care them as they are too long and would not hold up?

I then said how about 1/8 by 3" and he said thats the same as the 6/32 that he just said he didnt have......

where can I buy these bolts?

The guy at home depot may have been wrong then. I couldn't get any help from anyone there by asking, so I just loitered in the nuts/bolts aisle for a long time staring at the merchandise. Eventually I found several various sizes of machine screws in the 6/32 variety. When I couldn't find any in the correct length I started just looking at whatever was there that looked similar.

I found the 1/8" machine screws and asked a store person to open it for me so that I could compare it to the sample bolt-hole plate they have installed in the aisle (a metal plate with various sized threaded holes so that you can try different bolts/screws for compatibility or use it to figure out the thread size of a mystery bolt you have). The screw fit and so I bought a pack of 4 for ~$1 USD.

I'd either go back and try again on your own or maybe try Lowes' or any other hardware store you have nearby. Even potentially a Wal-Mart. Other people have ordered them from online computer stores.


----------



## tspainiv

Ok, here's mine. Went from 45C to 30C at idle.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MicahFett* 
I finally have my system up and running! No OC yet but everything fit together and working properly.

I ended up mounting my H70 with the rad and push/shroud inside of the case and the pull fan on the outside. My room ambient temps are about 26C and my computer operates idle @ 28-30C. After 2 hours of SCII or Borderlands it hits about 40C.

I've attached some pics for reference. I know I need to do some cable management in the bottom of my case.

Edit: Using stock fans atm. A bit loud, but I never notice them while gaming.

nice so basically u set up ur push/pull configuration like this
<-fan|-shroud|Radiator|shroud|fan<-
instead of ->fan|-shroud|Radiator|shroud|fan->
?


----------



## MicahFett

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Trademark* 
nice so basically u set up ur push/pull configuration like this
<-fan|-shroud|Radiator|shroud|fan<-
instead of ->fan|-shroud|Radiator|shroud|fan->
?

It was a bit unclear in the pictures. I actually only have one shroud (on the push side). I couldn't get my hands on a second 120mm fan to scrap into a pull shroud. The below pictures should help to clarify the setup.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
150k hours is about 17 years but if they have nil on static pressure that doesn't do any good if you hook them to a radiator.

So far they are not selling them in the US yet or under the Scythe name even yet I have been excited to see Scythe GentleTyphoon 2150rpm and 3000rpm fans. I would love to have a set of3k's and a fan controller. I know that the GT 1850's don't click when they are lower than full rpm having a 3k fan would be awesome if it was the same.

That is very exciting indeed. A 3k Gentle Typhoon would certainly be on my short list of items to buy =) Thanks for the heads up - I think I'll wait for something like that before I go and buy a Pabst or San Ace.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MicahFett* 
It was a bit unclear in the pictures. I actually only have one shroud (on the push side). I couldn't get my hands on a second 120mm fan to scrap into a pull shroud. The below pictures should help to clarify the setup.

arent u getting hot air by doing that?
i set up mine ->fan|rad|fan-> i might try that set up to see if my temp drop. but im pretty sure if u set up the push/pull on that ur not getting fresh air at all.. since ur sucking air from inside the case and inside the case is hot.....
but ill give it a try.. i did setup my old h50 just like that last time but im not getting a good result..


----------



## Trademark

mine is setup like this had to follow corsair instruction.


----------



## thiagocosta85

Allright guys,
I have had my H70 for a couple of weeks now, and I would like to provide an Update.
The Average temps were extra extra low, 32CÂº ~ 42CÂº Full Load. The weather got a little hotter here in boston, and now everything is different. The temperatures at the current weather with the H70 running at MAX POWER (no energy saving) is Min 39CÂº ~ Max 49CÂº ...

I am so sorry but, I'm glad I tryed this cooler but... Honestelly, It's not that good. Next year on summer, it will be MUCH hotter than it is now, and I think the temperature will probably be just as high as with the Stock Sink...

I will give the NH-D14 a try, I will cut off my memory's heatsink, and improvise a MOD...

I am NOT satisfyed with the H70, since it is not very efficient for the price,specially knowing that there is a slight chance it will damage the hardware if it leaks...

I just thought it was important to let you guys know...

Lets hope the NH-D14 is good.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thiagocosta85* 
Allright guys,
I have had my H70 for a couple of weeks now, and I would like to provide an Update.
The Average temps were extra extra low, 32CÂº ~ 42CÂº Full Load. The weather got a little hotter here in boston, and now everything is different. The temperatures at the current weather with the H70 running at MAX POWER (no energy saving) is Min 39CÂº ~ Max 49CÂº ...

I am so sorry but, I'm glad I tryed this cooler but... Honestelly, It's not that good. Next year on summer, it will be MUCH hotter than it is now, and I think the temperature will probably be just as high as with the Stock Sink...

I will give the NH-D14 a try, I will cut off my memory's heatsink, and improvise a MOD...

I am NOT satisfyed with the H70, since it is not very efficient for the price,specially knowing that there is a slight chance it will damage the hardware if it leaks...

I just thought it was important to let you guys know...

Lets hope the NH-D14 is good.

even if theres a chance of leak corsair will replace ur components 100% at all times if it does leak and damage ur components. i know i saw it happened before. noctua is good but not my taste installing a huge ugly cooler in my rig.


----------



## slimbrady

Bro, no matter your temperatures the H70 is never going to run as hot as a stock cooler. Sorry to see you're unsatisfied. GL with the N.


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thiagocosta85* 
Allright guys,
I have had my H70 for a couple of weeks now, and I would like to provide an Update.
The Average temps were extra extra low, 32CÂº ~ 42CÂº Full Load. The weather got a little hotter here in boston, and now everything is different. The temperatures at the current weather with the H70 running at MAX POWER (no energy saving) is Min 39CÂº ~ Max 49CÂº ...

I am so sorry but, I'm glad I tryed this cooler but... Honestelly, It's not that good. Next year on summer, it will be MUCH hotter than it is now, and I think the temperature will probably be just as high as with the Stock Sink...

I will give the NH-D14 a try, I will cut off my memory's heatsink, and improvise a MOD...

I am NOT satisfyed with the H70, since it is not very efficient for the price,specially knowing that there is a slight chance it will damage the hardware if it leaks...

I just thought it was important to let you guys know...

Lets hope the NH-D14 is good.

My temps also raised after a couple of weeks. Turned out that the thermal paste had flattened out because of the heat. The screws were pretty loose. After tightening them my temps dropped again


----------



## thiagocosta85

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Freaxy* 
My temps also raised after a couple of weeks. Turned out that the thermal paste had flattened out because of the heat. The screws were pretty loose. After tightening them my temps dropped again










That's a good point !!!...
I thought about it but since it came from you I will HAVE to try this !!!
Very nice bro... =D

Genious !

By the way, I have to agree the NH-D14 is UGLY, But... If it cools my CPU to a healthy stage, I guess I will be happy with a MUSCLE CAR MOTOR LOOKING CPU =D

I will be home in aprox 2 hours, I will try it then and post the results here, but I do think it will work,

I will then change my opinion about the H70 and be happy with it again.

Once agian, Thx bro


----------



## Infinitegrim

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thiagocosta85* 
That's a good point !!!...
I thought about it but since it came from you I will HAVE to try this !!!
Very nice bro... =D

Genious !

By the way, I have to agree the NH-D14 is UGLY, But... If it cools my CPU to a healthy stage, I guess I will be happy with a MUSCLE CAR MOTOR LOOKING CPU =D

I will be home in aprox 2 hours, I will try it then and post the results here, but I do think it will work,

I will then change my opinion about the H70 and be happy with it again.

Once agian, Thx bro

Unfortunetly the ambient temp is most likely what is effecting your H70. With my air conditioner off and my room at 70-75F, my idle is 41-45C and load at 72C, with my air conditioner at max and my room around 65F, my idle temps are 36-40C and my load is around 60-62C

Im about to switch my AS5 to the Noctua stuff to see if that improves it


----------



## dude120

Recently picked up a second H50, and added it to my SR-2 build. (picture from my build thread)








The h50s cool the Xeon e5620's extremely well, idling around 30c most of the time. I have yet to try linx or prime 95 though. The first cpu has a shroud I made on it with artic cooling mx2, the other the stock shin etsu.
Temps:


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Loving that 2x H50 setup, looks Ace!!
great temps to boot aswel!

Spot on


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thiagocosta85*


That's a good point !!!...
I thought about it but since it came from you I will HAVE to try this !!!
Very nice bro... =D

Genious !

By the way, I have to agree the NH-D14 is UGLY, But... If it cools my CPU to a healthy stage, I guess I will be happy with a MUSCLE CAR MOTOR LOOKING CPU =D

I will be home in aprox 2 hours, I will try it then and post the results here, but I do think it will work,

I will then change my opinion about the H70 and be happy with it again.

Once agian, Thx bro


I'll give you $50.00 shipped.


----------



## MicahFett

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Trademark* 
arent u getting hot air by doing that?
i set up mine ->fan|rad|fan-> i might try that set up to see if my temp drop. but im pretty sure if u set up the push/pull on that ur not getting fresh air at all.. since ur sucking air from inside the case and inside the case is hot.....
but ill give it a try.. i did setup my old h50 just like that last time but im not getting a good result..

The consensus has been that the best performance overall for the system is to use the H50/H70 as a rear exhaust, which is exactly the opposite of what Corsair recommends.

Corsair's recommendation yields the lowest temp for the actual CPU by a couple of degrees but you end up taking the heat away from the CPU and exhausting it into your case.

If you go to page 1 of this thread and read the very first FAQ of the first post it will confirm this. That's why I have my H70 set up for exhaust.


----------



## thiagocosta85

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Infinitegrim*


Unfortunetly the ambient temp is most likely what is effecting your H70. With my air conditioner off and my room at 70-75F, my idle is 41-45C and load at 72C, with my air conditioner at max and my room around 65F, my idle temps are 36-40C and my load is around 60-62C

Im about to switch my AS5 to the Noctua stuff to see if that improves it


Yeah maybe.... When I first got my system together, The weather was a little colder, probably about 15FÂº Colder, Now the sun is back and I guess that is why.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mark_K*


I'll give you $50.00 shipped.


First of all, I would like to thank you for the offer, but I will be happyer with it in my attic so my spiders can play with it, than selling it for $50 dollars and pay for the shipping... This was defnatelly not a fair offer lol. But thanks anyways.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trademark*


even if theres a chance of leak corsair will replace ur components 100% at all times if it does leak and damage ur components. i know i saw it happened before. noctua is good but not my taste installing a huge ugly cooler in my rig.



=D Yes you are right !!! ... That is very true... But still, the time it will take for them to get all your stuff back to you I bet it will waste at least 8~15 days of your fan, and that is very crucial for non patient people.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimbrady*


Bro, no matter your temperatures the H70 is never going to run as hot as a stock cooler. Sorry to see you're unsatisfied. GL with the N.


Yeah... I know... you are right... But, $110 + shipping for less than a 30% improvement, I might as well buy a real water cooling system. And thx for the GL =D...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Freaxy*


My temps also raised after a couple of weeks. Turned out that the thermal paste had flattened out because of the heat. The screws were pretty loose. After tightening them my temps dropped again











BRO !!!! I just tryed what you did... Yes I did notice that the screws were slightly looser than it was when I first put it in. But, after re-tightening them up in the right pattern, the temp dropped about 3CÂº,...

I think it was the weather that was too cold.
The sun being strong again, is allowing me to see the real results.

Defnatelly cooler than stock, but, not satisfyed yet. !!!

I Guess I will have to take 2 ram chips to the body shop, take a cutting disk tool, and just say good bye to that RAM heatsynk... And to tell you the truth, I've touched the heatsyncs while stressing the memory, and the RAM doesn't get hot AT ALL... so... idk. I dont need that huge ram heatsynk for nothing... so I will loose a piece of it (not the whole thing).


----------



## Silvos00

So I just i got my new Gigabyte board and my Phenom II X2 555. After re-applying the thermal paste on my H50, the temp seems to be only 2C lower than my old 550 at 3.6 and 3 cores. Any suggestions? I thought it might be the thermal paste, but I made sure it was on correctly. The pic is 3.6Ghz on 4 cores.


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thiagocosta85* 
BRO !!!! I just tryed what you did... Yes I did notice that the screws were slightly looser than it was when I first put it in. But, after re-tightening them up in the right pattern, the temp dropped about 3CÂº,...

I think it was the weather that was too cold.
The sun being strong again, is allowing me to see the real results.

Defnatelly cooler than stock, but, not satisfyed yet. !!!

I Guess I will have to take 2 ram chips to the body shop, take a cutting disk tool, and just say good bye to that RAM heatsynk... And to tell you the truth, I've touched the heatsyncs while stressing the memory, and the RAM doesn't get hot AT ALL... so... idk. I dont need that huge ram heatsynk for nothing... so I will loose a piece of it (not the whole thing).

Good to know that it worked








Too bad it isn't cool enough yet.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MicahFett* 
The consensus has been that the best performance overall for the system is to use the H50/H70 as a rear exhaust, which is exactly the opposite of what Corsair recommends.

Corsair's recommendation yields the lowest temp for the actual CPU by a couple of degrees but you end up taking the heat away from the CPU and exhausting it into your case.

If you go to page 1 of this thread and read the very first FAQ of the first post it will confirm this. That's why I have my H70 set up for exhaust.

ur right man i did that opposite set up last time on my old build and im getting better result. i did fix it drop my temp -5 celcius from switching to old setup
->Fan|Radiator|Fan->







going to install Scythe Gentle Typhoon ap15 soon to get the best temp i can get . no wonder when i run my prime 95 for 17hours im hiting 70 celcius on load instead of 64-65max or less.. im going to run prime 95 again and test this new setup.


----------



## Trademark

Just wanna share my new clock 4.2 at 1.244V


----------



## Triggaaar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Trademark* 
Just wanna share my new clock 4.2 at 1.244V










Nice, is that with the H70 as exhaust or as intake?


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Triggaaar* 
Nice, is that with the H70 as exhaust or as intake?

<--Fan|Radiator|Fan<-- but i have a good i7 930 batch though i can probably hit 5.0 with water cooling... but for now 4.2 is my max.... dont wanna push it too hard..


----------



## evilpandy

Just got my H50 installed!







(IC diamond is really tough to squeeze out lol)

I was trying to put my blademasters in push/pull as exhaust out the back but it seems like I made it intake by accident.

Temps seem great so far, so I'm probably leaving it.

Idled at 20-22 C and currently 36C 10mins into prime blend. (3.7ghz x3)

Can't wait to see how far I can take this chip as a quad.


----------



## koven

has anyone here gone from a h50 stock config to a push-pull?

i was wondering, is it worth the time/money to add another fan and make it exhaust out the rear? i'll probably add some mx5 in the process too

i'm at 3.8ghz 1.4v loading at 54c, games around 46c, idling at 33c

how much will temps go down? 1-3C or 4C+?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *koven* 
has anyone here gone from a h50 stock config to a push-pull?

i was wondering, is it worth the time/money to add another fan and make it exhaust out the rear? i'll probably add some mx5 in the process too

i'm at 3.8ghz 1.4v loading at 54c, games around 46c, idling at 33c

how much will temps go down? 1-3C or 4C+?

This is overclock.net....not Best Buy's website...I don't think a single person here still has a H50 with just their stock fan.
If your going to OC of course it is worth it. No one can tell you how much you can lower your temps because everyone's setup is different. Even someone with the same hardware/case/fans/ambient temps could get different temps because every CPU is unique and different.

There is no reason to change the TIM to MX5 the stock is better than that unless you have to move/re-seat the pump/block then no reason to put something new on.

54C is decent if that is your full load temps(running prime95 or similar program) I have a push/pull setup with shrouds and the H50 in my front 5 1/4 bays as intake and I get full load temps in the mid 40's before I had p/p with shrouds I was at 62+ way too hot for AMD chips so had to do something.


----------



## thiagocosta85

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Freaxy* 
Good to know that it worked








Too bad it isn't cool enough yet.


Yeah thx bro... WHen I get the NH-D14, I will post the results here... I ordered it and I will be cutting my RAM's heatsync today =D

I hope i get the Noctua by friday...

By the way, I know it is off subject but...
With my Nvidia GTX 480, when I play Dekaron (only game it happens) I FREQUENTLY get an error that says, Driver (version) has failed and has recovered kernell error etc etc....

In the event viewer, the error isnt recongnized by me, You think it is the CARD? or you think it is the GAME? ... or is it the driver? ... This problem is making me DESPERATE, because I would HATE to RMA the card, and if I have to I will go ATI.

THx bros, sorry to scape from the main subject.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thiagocosta85* 
Yeah thx bro... WHen I get the NH-D14, I will post the results here... I ordered it and I will be cutting my RAM's heatsync today =D

I hope i get the Noctua by friday...

By the way, I know it is off subject but...
With my Nvidia GTX 480, when I play Dekaron (only game it happens) I FREQUENTLY get an error that says, Driver (version) has failed and has recovered kernell error etc etc....

In the event viewer, the error isnt recongnized by me, You think it is the CARD? or you think it is the GAME? ... or is it the driver? ... This problem is making me DESPERATE, because I would HATE to RMA the card, and if I have to I will go ATI.

THx bros, sorry to scape from the main subject.

do a clean driver install man.
download driver sweeper if u havent done it at http://downloads.guru3d.com/Guru3D--...up)_d1655.html
and install the latest or the beta version of nvidia driver.
im using the beta version of right now so far so good.


----------



## The Viper

Modded H50...thinking about adding a 2nd small rad, just where to put it...i really wish i had bought colored tubing....i need more color baby


----------



## Wingzero

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
This is overclock.net....not Best Buy's website...I don't think a single person here still has a H50 with just their stock fan.
If your going to OC of course it is worth it. No one can tell you how much you can lower your temps because everyone's setup is different. Even someone with the same hardware/case/fans/ambient temps could get different temps because every CPU is unique and different.

There is no reason to change the TIM to MX5 the stock is better than that unless you have to move/re-seat the pump/block then no reason to put something new on.

54C is decent if that is your full load temps(running prime95 or similar program) I have a push/pull setup with shrouds and the H50 in my front 5 1/4 bays as intake and I get full load temps in the mid 40's before I had p/p with shrouds I was at 62+ way too hot for AMD chips so had to do something.

I did when mine was working should i be kicked off OCN by your logic and go make an account with best buy?

I still got good temps.

Better fans and push/pull isn't gonna net you a 10C difference your looking at 5 on load at most and 2-3 on idle.


----------



## Crazy^^Red

Why are you guys not using the TIM / Thermal matt which comes with the H50 , and changing it with MX-2 and stuff.

FYI, the TIM that comes with the H50 is 30x better then any other TIM you can find out there. Its not retailing anywhere.


----------



## solidsteel144

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Crazy^^Red* 
Why are you guys not using the TIM / Thermal matt which comes with the H50 , and changing it with MX-2 and stuff.

FYI, the TIM that comes with the H50 is 30x better then any other TIM you can find out there. Its not retailing anywhere.


----------



## koven

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
This is overclock.net....not Best Buy's website...I don't think a single person here still has a H50 with just their stock fan.
If your going to OC of course it is worth it. No one can tell you how much you can lower your temps because everyone's setup is different. Even someone with the same hardware/case/fans/ambient temps could get different temps because every CPU is unique and different.

There is no reason to change the TIM to MX5 the stock is better than that unless you have to move/re-seat the pump/block then no reason to put something new on.

54C is decent if that is your full load temps(running prime95 or similar program) I have a push/pull setup with shrouds and the H50 in my front 5 1/4 bays as intake and I get full load temps in the mid 40's before I had p/p with shrouds I was at 62+ way too hot for AMD chips so had to do something.

mid 40's load sounds nice, what is your clock/vcore?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *koven* 
mid 40's load sounds nice, what is your clock/vcore?

3.8 1.425vcore. My board is not the best for OC it seems to want a lot of V for little bumps. I am happy with my temps and small OC so it's going to stay there for a while.


----------



## AK-47

From a logical point of view the push pull method sounds like a horrible idea. and the stock method sounds like a horrible idea too. I don't want to blow hot air from the rad to my system but I also don't want the hot air from the system going through the rad and not letting the cpu be as cool as it should. So logically the rad should not be in the case.anybody been able to place it outside of the case?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wingzero* 
I did when mine was working should i be kicked off OCN by your logic and go make an account with best buy?

I still got good temps.

Better fans and push/pull isn't gonna net you a 10C difference your looking at 5 on load at most and 2-3 on idle.

Your right it didn't net me 10C difference it did almost 20C.

This whole thread is page after page of different fans/setups and the like for the H50 and now H70 I have not seen anyone come here and ever post I have stock H50 and I am going to keep it that way....

It is an obvious joke about Best Buy sorry if you couldn't see it.

Never mentioned that if you keep it stock that you shouldn't be here just pointing out that a thousand pages aren't dedicated to keeping a stock cooler.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AK-47* 
From a logical point of view the push pull method sounds like a horrible idea. and the stock method sounds like a horrible idea too. I don't want to blow hot air from the rad to my system but I also don't want the hot air from the system going through the rad and not letting the cpu be as cool as it should. So logically the rad should not be in the case.anybody been able to place it outside of the case?

Push/Pull is a completely logical setup makes perfect sense. Any air cooler or even most water cooled systems still either pull cool air into a case and and vent hot air on all the other components or suck hot air from the case through them and exhaust out. Very few even full WC setups have the radiator and fans outside the case.

There was at least one I remember that put the whole radiator and fans outside his case it wasn't that many pages back but at the speed this thread moves it would be hard to find.


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AK-47* 
From a logical point of view the push pull method sounds like a horrible idea. and the stock method sounds like a horrible idea too. I don't want to blow hot air from the rad to my system but I also don't want the hot air from the system going through the rad and not letting the cpu be as cool as it should. So logically the rad should not be in the case.anybody been able to place it outside of the case?

I thought about that but you would have to cutt the tubes and then you would not have a closed system anymore.


----------



## MicahFett

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Trademark* 
Just wanna share my new clock 4.2 at 1.244V










Gratz on the OC









Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Viper* 
Modded H50...thinking about adding a 2nd small rad, just where to put it...i really wish i had bought colored tubing....i need more color baby


A lot more on that H50 than the single stock fan eh? Also, wanted to give a shout out to someone from Oregon! I'm still an Oregonian at heart, I just happen to live very far away









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Crazy^^Red* 
Why are you guys not using the TIM / Thermal matt which comes with the H50 , and changing it with MX-2 and stuff.

FYI, the TIM that comes with the H50 is 30x better then any other TIM you can find out there. Its not retailing anywhere.

Most people end up re-applying a TIM after remounting the pump b/c the mounting system is a PITA. After pulling it off a clean start with a new TIM is in the cards.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AK-47* 
From a logical point of view the push pull method sounds like a horrible idea. and the stock method sounds like a horrible idea too. I don't want to blow hot air from the rad to my system but I also don't want the hot air from the system going through the rad and not letting the cpu be as cool as it should. So logically the rad should not be in the case.anybody been able to place it outside of the case?

If you think about it, any standard air cooling fan blowing on a bunch of heat exchangers inside of your case is not only pulling hot air to cool the CPU but also exhausting hotter air into your case. Worst case scenario the H50/H70 only does one of the two.

Some people mount on the outside of the case. Just have to mod the tubing (voids warranty) or run the pump/tubes into the case through a hole large enough to accommodate them via a quick case mod.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


3.8 1.425vcore. My board is not the best for OC it seems to want a lot of V for little bumps. I am happy with my temps and small OC so it's going to stay there for a while.


I can vouch for those temps though I think you have a C2 vs C3 stepping. I have C3 on my 965 and get just a bit higher at 20C ambient (almost same set-up though). I've just recently changed my OC to 4.020 Ghz at 1.5 V, NB at 2630 mhz 2.325 V and Mem at 1620 mhz 9-9-9-24-33 1t 1.7 V rock stable. Max temp on Prime 95 blended test was 53 C at 20 C ambient. I now run this OC 24/7.

I was thinking about moving to the H70 same config but not sure it would be worth it. To recap I have 2 X 25 mm shrouds, 2 X 2,000 rpm Ultra Kaze and intake from front drive bays.


----------



## thiagocosta85

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trademark*


do a clean driver install man.
download driver sweeper if u havent done it at http://downloads.guru3d.com/Guru3D--...up)_d1655.html
and install the latest or the beta version of nvidia driver.
im using the beta version of right now so far so good.



Yeah bro... Thanks for the help...

Yesterday I downloaded the 260.xx version.
I did uninstall the driver by going to Device Manager, and uninstall, reboot, then reinstall...

I did not hunt for any existing system files in the /windows,/system32 etc, though....

But I will try what you said, the driver sweeper thing.

Hopefully it helps =D... once again, thanks bro


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


I can vouch for those temps though I think you have a C2 vs C3 stepping. I have C3 on my 965 and get just a bit higher at 20C ambient (almost same set-up though). I've just recently changed my OC to 4.020 Ghz at 1.5 V, NB at 2630 mhz 2.325 V and Mem at 1620 mhz 9-9-9-24-33 1t 1.7 V rock stable. Max temp on Prime 95 blended test was 53 C at 20 C ambient. I now run this OC 24/7.

I was thinking about moving to the H70 same config but not sure it would be worth it. To recap I have 2 X 25 mm shrouds, 2 X 2,000 rpm Ultra Kaze and intake from front drive bays.


I just checked again to make certain I have a C3 stepping also. At stock if I pick default for my motherboard it sets the vcore at 1.4 I know I can put it down to 1.2vcore and it runs fine at stock don't know why by default it starts so high. I tried to stay at a stable 4.0GHz but had to have my vcore around 1.5125 and stayed around 55C which is just on the upper limit for me to run 24/7 so staying at 3.8GHz is fine with me.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I just checked again to make certain I have a C3 stepping also. At stock if I pick default for my motherboard it sets the vcore at 1.4 I know I can put it down to 1.2vcore and it runs fine at stock don't know why by default it starts so high. I tried to stay at a stable 4.0GHz but had to have my vcore around 1.5125 and stayed around 55C which is just on the upper limit for me to run 24/7 so staying at 3.8GHz is fine with me.


Sorry for the bother bro I just want to compare my ugly Car Engine Motor Noctua so that people here understands the difference compared to something entirely at stock(original fans & TIM).. vs an H50 with 2 shrouds, 2 good fans & pretty certain you have a good TIM as well.

I am entirely certain your ambients are better than mines(my area is 90f 24/7, in my room with AC ON hitting directly the Computer I'd guess roughly mid 25-27c)... now I want you to run the same test as me LinX just 20 passes with the button "All" pressed.. as well use the same temp monitoring program CoreTemp

Here is mines 4.1Ghz 1.5v 2800NB 1.35v
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1324947









I know you said 4Ghz 1.5125... but I want you to use it again on my same LinX test... since we both pretty much have similar set up as in... 8gb ram, 2 GFX, 965 C3, 850w PSU

You have a pretty decent H50 set up... so it sounds like a perfect VS test with the Noctua NH-D14 stock... I don't believe you got 55c I honestly think it was lower than that... unless your ambients weren't that good when you did your testing before... that is why i want you to re-test.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


Sorry for the bother bro I just want to compare my ugly Car Engine Motor Noctua so that people here understands the difference compared to something entirely at stock(original fans & TIM).. vs an H50 with 2 shrouds, 2 good fans & pretty certain you have a good TIM as well.

I am entirely certain your ambients are better than mines(my area is 90f 24/7, in my room with AC ON hitting directly the Computer I'd guess roughly mid 25-27c)... now I want you to run the same test as me LinX just 20 passes with the button "All" pressed.. as well use the same temp monitoring program CoreTemp

Here is mines 4.1Ghz 1.5v 2800NB 1.35v

I know you said 4Ghz 1.5125... but I want you to use it again on my same LinX test... since we both pretty much have similar set up as in... 8gb ram, 2 GFX, 965 C3, 850w PSU

You have a pretty decent H50 set up... so it sounds like a perfect VS test with the Noctua NH-D14 stock... I don't believe you got 55c I honestly think it was lower than that... unless your ambients weren't that good when you did your testing before... that is why i want you to re-test.


Problem with that is CoreTemp does not work with my motherboard for CPU temps at all. The only thing that works with my motherboard is OverclockingCenter to monitor my CPU temps. I even posted some pics of a program and what I get with every other program other than OverclockingCenter.










At the bottom you can see my CPU temps 0C showing for all temps the same with every program I have tried.


----------



## digital_steve

Crazy... i get 4.0ghz on my c3 with only 1.475v. Must be lucky.
I have my NB at 2400mhz though, as it seemed the sweet spot. Any higher and i actually lost performance.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Problem with that is CoreTemp does not work with my motherboard for CPU temps at all. The only thing that works with my motherboard is OverclockingCenter to monitor my CPU temps. I even posted some pics of a program and what I get with every other program other than OverclockingCenter.










At the bottom you can see my CPU temps 0C showing for all temps the same with every program I have tried.


is this the program? "MSI overclocking center"

well since I have MSI.. I'm going to download it.. to see if it monitors the same temps as coretemp ... and if it does I'd guess you can do the re-test... I'll post back in a bit


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


Crazy... i get 4.0ghz on my c3 with only 1.475v. Must be lucky.
I have my NB at 2400mhz though, as it seemed the sweet spot. Any higher and i actually lost performance.


2600 mhz is the recommended min for 3.8 to 4.0 ghz. Try 1.325 Volts on the NB Vid and is should be stable no problem. There is a clear link between NB and CPU performance. 2400 is just too low for the setting you have on the CPU. Temp only went up a bit in my case at 2600 mhz.

Yes you have a "lucky" CPU.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


is this the program? "MSI overclocking center"

well since I have MSI.. I'm going to download it.. to see if it monitors the same temps as coretemp ... and if it does I'd guess you can do the re-test... I'll post back in a bit


In tried LinX 0.6.4 but it hardly seemed to stress my CPU and temps hardly increased. May I suggest you try Prime 95 blended test or IntelBurn test so we can compare temps? I use CPU HWMonitor for my temps which seems to work really well.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


In tried LinX 0.6.4 but it hardly seemed to stress my CPU and temps hardly increased. May I suggest you try Prime 95 blended test or IntelBurn test so we can compare temps? I use CPU HWMonitor for my temps which seems to work really well.


You have to Right click - Run As Adminstrator .. its BURNS 5-8c above Prime95 on blend

burns same as intel's burn test.. linX is much more reliable than IBT

HWmonitor, Everest, CoreTemp for me gives me the same exact temps - so its 100% Accurate my temps

i want someone to test exactly the same as I did.. I am not saying mine is better.. I just want someone to test exactly the same thing

another note you can't compare to mines, you have only 4gb of ram - its a different result while testing with LinX compared to 8gb ram which will stress higher than on your setup


----------



## Garanthor

sendblink23 said:


> You have to Right click - Run As Adminstrator .. its BURNS 5-8c above Prime95 on blend
> 
> burns same as intel's burn test.. linX is much more reliable than IBT
> 
> HWmonitor, Everest, CoreTemp for me gives me the same exact temps - so its 100% Accurate my temps
> 
> i want someone to test exactly the same as I did.. I am not saying mine is better.. I just want someone to test exactly the same thing[/QUOTE
> 
> while I am curious I'm not going to run a 2+ hour test, I can tell you that your temps are really good though. On Intel Burn Test at 21 C ambient with 1.5 volts feeding my 4.020 Ghz overclock I get 54 C. Add on a degree to this figure for each degree of ambient over 21 C and you get a better comparison. This also corresponds to what I have seen in reviews for the H70 where the H50 dual fan configuration is mentioned along with the NH D-14 (which I almost bought by the way before I bought the H50). The H70 in these reviews just edges out the NH D-14 which beats the H50 by a few degrees.


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


2600 mhz is the recommended min for 3.8 to 4.0 ghz. Try 1.325 Volts on the NB Vid and is should be stable no problem. There is a clear link between NB and CPU performance. 2400 is just too low for the setting you have on the CPU. Temp only went up a bit in my case at 2600 mhz.

Yes you have a "lucky" CPU.










been there, done that... as i said, the performance is better at 2400 than 2600 for some reason.
I'll try it again and run benchmarks to confirm, but that was certainly the case last time.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *digital_steve*


been there, done that... as i said, the performance is better at 2400 than 2600 for some reason.
I'll try it again and run benchmarks to confirm, but that was certainly the case last time.


that is kind of odd 2600 is a fact better than 2400... unless for some reason on yours its acting kind of nuts


----------



## dude120

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Crazy^^Red* 
Why are you guys not using the TIM / Thermal matt which comes with the H50 , and changing it with MX-2 and stuff.

FYI, the TIM that comes with the H50 is 30x better then any other TIM you can find out there. Its not retailing anywhere.

Shin Etsu isn't easy to come by. The frys near me never has it in stock. Though shin etsu is high quality paste its marginally better than mx-3 or ic7.


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AK-47* 
From a logical point of view the push pull method sounds like a horrible idea. and the stock method sounds like a horrible idea too. I don't want to blow hot air from the rad to my system but I also don't want the hot air from the system going through the rad and not letting the cpu be as cool as it should. So logically the rad should not be in the case.anybody been able to place it outside of the case?

I'm planning on this. You know how? Getting an Antec Skeleton case lol. It's not the prettiest case in the world, but I'm willing to bet the H50/70 would work like a champ with fresh air on all sides.


----------



## Infinitegrim

As for TIM. I had AS5, the I switched to MX-2, and now I have the Noctua stuff. So far it seems that they rank: AS5<Noctua<MX2


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dude120* 
Shin Etsu isn't easy to come by. The frys near me never has it in stock. Though shin etsu is high quality paste its marginally better than mx-3 or ic7.

simple... order it online lol
If you can't find it on a local store don't stop your self from trying to get it


----------



## adios_pelota

Hello. First time poster on these forums *ever*









Just wanted to say thanks to this thread I was able to drop my CPU temps considerably after reading the advice from others.

Here was my 4-day old H70 this morning:









And here it is this evening, after moving the push fan to the outside of my case, along with a homemade shroud







:









My temps dropped from 38-41C idle to *27-31C idle* (and 55-59C max during stress testing!) All on account of adding that shroud! Amazing!

















FYI I'm not overclocking this machine yet -- just upgraded it a few days ago. I'm going to put some Noctua P12's on this bad boy later in the week, in an effort to reduce the sound.

Anyways, thanks again to everyone and their sound advice


----------



## AK-47

Btw the H70 is on sale @ tigerdirect for $90 shipped


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AK-47* 
Btw the H70 is on sale @ tigerdirect for $90 shipped

Actually think that it is just coming down to the price it should be at for good. It sold higher just because it was new.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *adios_pelota* 
Hello. First time poster on these forums *ever*









Just wanted to say thanks to this thread I was able to drop my CPU temps considerably after reading the advice from others.

Here was my 4-day old H70 this morning:









And here it is this evening, after moving the push fan to the outside of my case, along with a homemade shroud







:









My temps dropped from 38-41C idle to *27-31C idle* (and 55-59C max during stress testing!) All on account of adding that shroud! Amazing!

















FYI I'm not overclocking this machine yet -- just upgraded it a few days ago. I'm going to put some Noctua P12's on this bad boy later in the week, in an effort to reduce the sound.

Anyways, thanks again to everyone and their sound advice









Good Job man









heres my result on my h70. after i set up my push/pull configuration like this <--fan|rad|fan<-- going to try to hit 4.3 or 4.4 tomorrow.


----------



## Trademark

You Tube





and heres the actual build had to take a video after i install my new ssd LOL


----------



## Triggaaar

Has anyone here tried the H50 or H70 with Coolink SWiF2 fans?


----------



## Sevastos

Hello everyone. Got a quick question before I order my new parts.

I've chosen so far the: Coolermaster HAF X case, Phenom x4 965BE, Crosshair IV M/B and the H70. I was thinking of installing it on the top of the case in this order: Push fan->Shroud->Rad->Pull (200mm Top exaust fan), so I can take advantage of the top fan.

Now, while I was looking around for the Push fan I came accross to Scythe Kaze Jyuni 1900RPM

What do you guys think? Will the Scythe + the Case fan be enough to cool down the rad? If not, what do you suggest?

The noise is not an issue at all as I can't even sleep without music on!


----------



## M1nUrThr3t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sevastos*


Hello everyone. Got a quick question before I order my new parts.

I've chosen so far the: Coolermaster HAF X case, Phenom x4 965BE, Crosshair IV M/B and the H70. I was thinking of installing it on the top of the case in this order: Push fan->Shroud->Rad->Pull (200mm Top exaust fan), so I can take advantage of the top fan.

Now, while I was looking around for the Push fan I came accross to Scythe Kaze Jyuni 1900RPM

What do you guys think? Will the Scythe + the Case fan be enough to cool down the rad? If not, what do you suggest?

The noise is not an issue at all as I can't even sleep without music on!


If noise is not an issue i would get a pair of these.
Ultra Kaze 3k Rpm
These with the shroud should do some nice cooling. IMO


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *M1nUrThr3t*


If noise is not an issue i would get a pair of these.
Ultra Kaze 3k Rpm
These with the shroud should do some nice cooling. IMO


Noise is ALWAYS an issue. DON'T get the Ultra Kaze 3,000 rpm fan. The noise vs cooling is simply not worth it. DON'T get the Jyuni, the static pressure is just terrible. Get the Ulltra Kaze 2,000 rpm. Nice static pressure (better than any 25 mm fan), decent noise level and cheap ($7.00 each).


----------



## Sevastos

Thanks for your replies so far. I also found about the Coolermaster Excalibur... Any feedback on this one?

Also, can anyone provide links of European sites to buy them, since none can be found in Greece yet?


----------



## Wingzero

Anyone know how long Corsair take with RMA's they've received my parts.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sevastos*


Hello everyone. Got a quick question before I order my new parts.

I've chosen so far the: Coolermaster HAF X case, Phenom x4 965BE, Crosshair IV M/B and the H70. I was thinking of installing it on the top of the case in this order: Push fan->Shroud->Rad->Pull (200mm Top exaust fan), so I can take advantage of the top fan.

Now, while I was looking around for the Push fan I came accross to Scythe Kaze Jyuni 1900RPM

What do you guys think? Will the Scythe + the Case fan be enough to cool down the rad? If not, what do you suggest?

The noise is not an issue at all as I can't even sleep without music on!


go ahead and order either 120mm Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-14 or AP-15 if u can dont get that crappy fan man .


----------



## Trademark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sevastos*


Thanks for your replies so far. I also found about the Coolermaster Excalibur... Any feedback on this one?

Also, can anyone provide links of European sites to buy them, since none can be found in Greece yet?


excalibur is ok but having that fan its just like having the stock Corsair H70 fan. like i said i highly recommend the Scythe Gentle Typhoon ap-15 if u cant find that get the ap-14


----------



## AK-47

LoL so I picked up the h70 from tigerdirect and should be returning my h50 to microcenter tomorrow. Also picked up the 3k rpm fans. Now my question is can I make a shrout out of the stock fans


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sevastos* 
Hello everyone. Got a quick question before I order my new parts.

I've chosen so far the: Coolermaster HAF X case, Phenom x4 965BE, Crosshair IV M/B and the H70. I was thinking of installing it on the top of the case in this order: Push fan->Shroud->Rad->Pull (200mm Top exaust fan), so I can take advantage of the top fan.

Now, while I was looking around for the Push fan I came accross to Scythe Kaze Jyuni 1900RPM

What do you guys think? Will the Scythe + the Case fan be enough to cool down the rad? If not, what do you suggest?

The noise is not an issue at all as I can't even sleep without music on!


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Trademark* 
go ahead and order either 120mm Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-14 or AP-15 if u can dont get that crappy fan man .

Sorry, going to have to disagree with you guys here. Look at his post, he clearly states noise is *not* an issue. I am of the same mind set as my room fan probably puts out well over 100db. The Gentle Typhoon AP15 is most certainly a wonderful fan but it is not THE best fan for maximum cooling on a radiator. Without getting into the remarkable pressure you can get from 120x38mm fans, Silverstone's 120x25mm FM123's easily beat the static pressure of the AP15's or the Scythe Ultra's as mentioned above. Yes, they are more noisy and I'm sure there are better fans out there, I'm just making the point that the AP15's are kings of DBvsStatic/CFM but not king of static pressure in general.

If you are in Europe you might want to take a look at this one: http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...product_id=683but I personally haven't tried anything from Koolance, nor have I seen them actually tested to verify those specs but they do sound impressive from reading the stats...so do their 120x38mm's.

How would you plan on mounting the rad to the top 200mm exhaust fan in your case as you mentioned? I can't really see how that would work, maybe my imagination isn't good enough, enlighten me please. =)


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
Sorry, going to have to disagree with you guys here. Look at his post, he clearly states noise is *not* an issue. I am of the same mind set as my room fan probably puts out well over 100db. The Gentle Typhoon AP15 is most certainly a wonderful fan but it is not THE best fan for maximum cooling on a radiator. Without getting into the remarkable pressure you can get from 120x38mm fans, Silverstone's 120x25mm FM123's easily beat the static pressure of the AP15's or the Scythe Ultra's as mentioned above. Yes, they are more noisy and I'm sure there are better fans out there, I'm just making the point that the AP15's are kings of DBvsStatic/CFM but not king of static pressure in general.

If you are in Europe you might want to take a look at this one: http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...product_id=683but I personally haven't tried anything from Koolance, nor have I seen them actually tested to verify those specs but they do sound impressive from reading the stats...so do their 120x38mm's.

How would you plan on mounting the rad to the top 200mm exhaust fan in your case as you mentioned? I can't really see how that would work, maybe my imagination isn't good enough, enlighten me please. =)

sadly ur the only one suggesting that the fan is better than gentle typhoon. check every thread on this forum atleast 90% or better recommend the Scythe Gentle Typhoon. so yah ur one of the 5-10% who dont agree .


----------



## Huster

Add me please









Just set up my Corsair H50 [push-pull] in my AZZA Helios 910









Pictures to follow!


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Trademark* 
sadly ur the only one suggesting that the fan is better than gentle typhoon. check every thread on this forum atleast 90% or better recommend the Scythe Gentle Typhoon. so yah ur one of the 5-10% who dont agree .

Bro, read carefully before you accuse me of things please. I said that there are fans with better static pressure. This is true. Check facts. The reason why AP15's are generally accepted as the "best" fan is because for 90% of the people posting, *noise* is an issue. For the OP and myself noise is *not* an issue. When you establish that parameter, the meaning of "best" fan can and probably will change from someone else's definition that cares a great deal about a fan's DB.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wingzero* 
Anyone know how long Corsair take with RMA's they've received my parts.


...just got done with an RMA episode with Corsair PSU[HX750], it just died after 8 months...














] >>>>Filled out RMA
form's online(this is Saturday), within and hour , I got and RMA case number with RMA instructions to print out &
to ship back; I shipped out following Monday , they received Wednesday, but didn't notify me till Thursday that they did;
and that notice stated i would get information pertaining to the RMA/Case within 5 business days..... come Tuesday{TODAY},
( 5 days later from notice), I have received my replacement PSU at my front door, this is even a Brand Spankin NEW one
in it's seal'd wrap....... and this is all within like 10 day's [ well, really 7to 8 business days, not counting Sundays ...]

.....hope that would tend to give you an idea for Corsair's RMA/Customer Service . . . .









mr-Charles . . .









.


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
Bro, read carefully before you accuse me of things please. I said that there are fans with better static pressure. This is true. Check facts. The reason why AP15's are generally accepted as the "best" fan is because for 90% of the people posting, *noise* is an issue. For the OP and myself noise is *not* an issue. When you establish that parameter, the meaning of "best" fan can and probably will change from someone else's definition that cares a great deal about a fan's DB.

I'm on your side man! And besides, those Koolance fans you linked to in your previous post have a MUCH BETTER static presure:noise ratio than the GTs.

5.4mH2O at 32.8dBa is REALLY good, and very quiet for such performance.

And they're cheap! At $7.99, they're half the cost of the GTs.


----------



## The Mad Mule

I just posted a thread on my personal impressions with the H50, but here are the temp differences I've experienced compared to the stock cooler.

Quote:

Ambient temps are at 22-24C, and Prime95 had been running for at least an hour in both load measurements.

With the Intel stock cooler, idle temps were 40C, and load was 85C.

Now with the H50, idle is 30C, and load is 58C.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Mad Mule* 
I just posted a thread on my personal impressions with the H50, but here are the temp differences I've experienced compared to the stock cooler.

yeah the comparison with your stock cooler is very nice indeed









Keep it up!


----------



## SheepMoose

Are these fans any good for the H70?

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...oducts_id=8022

What about scythe fans? Which scythe fans would be good for getting the lowest temps?


----------



## Wingzero

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
...just got done with an RMA episode with Corsair PSU[HX750], it just died after 8 months...














] >>>>Filled out RMA
form's online(this is Saturday), within and hour , I got and RMA case number with RMA instructions to print out &
to ship back; I shipped out following Monday , they received Wednesday, but didn't notify me till Thursday that they did;
and that notice stated i would get information pertaining to the RMA/Case within 5 business days..... come Tuesday{TODAY},
( 5 days later from notice), I have received my replacement PSU at my front door, this is even a Brand Spankin NEW one
in it's seal'd wrap....... and this is all within like 10 day's [ well, really 7to 8 business days, not counting Sundays ...]

.....hope that would tend to give you an idea for Corsair's RMA/Customer Service . . . .









mr-Charles . . .









.

Thanks man hoping i get the same. If not upgrade me to a fresh H70 Corsair Pl0x


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SheepMoose* 
Are these fans any good for the H70?

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...oducts_id=8022

What about scythe fans? Which scythe fans would be good for getting the lowest temps?

They L\\look decent. Comparable static pressure to the Gentle Typhoons, but actually quieter, by about 10dBa if I remember the GTs specs correctly.

When looking to upgrade a fan on a radiator, always go for the highest static pressure you can find while maintaining a preferable sound level.


----------



## Shadow of Intent

Hey ive been thinking about getting the H50 for my system but im not sure how much more of a boost it'll give me over my currrent setup.

Currently have the CM 212+ with 2 Scythe gentle typhoon 1850's in push/pull config and im getting pretty decent temps anyway, as you can see here I idle around 35c - 37c and after a run on intel burn test I maxed at 53c.










I don't know if the H50 with those same gentle typhoons will give any better performance. I could get the H70, I know its a bit of a squeeze to get it into my storm scout but I can be done.

Also i've read alot about people getting a rattling sound with their pumps after a while, have corsair sorted this issue and is only on the H50 as thats what I seem to be reading in other forums.


----------



## Seanicy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shadow of Intent* 
Hey ive been thinking about getting the H50 for my system but im not sure how much more of a boost it'll give me over my currrent setup.

Currently have the CM 212+ with 2 Scythe gentle typhoon 1850's in push/pull config and im getting pretty decent temps anyway, as you can see here I idle around 35c - 37c and after a run on intel burn test I maxed at 53c.










I don't know if the H50 with those same gentle typhoons will give any better performance. I could get the H70, I know its a bit of a squeeze to get it into my storm scout but I can be done.

Also i've read alot about people getting a rattling sound with their pumps after a while, have corsair sorted this issue and is only on the H50 as thats what I seem to be reading in other forums.


I got the H50 in push/pull with 2 X 55mm Noisblockers and I idle around 18-20c with 24c ambients. And this is with the 95w 1055T clocked at 4Ghz (1.46v), 3Ghz NB. Your temps shouldn't be that high with a 3.5Ghz clock. Also I have had my H50 for almost 6 months and I have not had one problem with it...


----------



## Shadow of Intent

Yeah I had temp problems before in my old case, the new case worked well but Id still like lower temps, especially if you're getting those temps.

Is the H70 worth the extra money?
I've seen someone in the scout thread who has fitted it in the case by changing the top fan to a 120mm from the default 140mm one but if the H70 isn't worth it then ill just get the H50.


----------



## Infinitegrim

H70 is only worth it if you get it for $90 or less, which tigerdirect has it for $90 currently.


----------



## Shadow of Intent

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Infinitegrim* 
H70 is only worth it if you get it for $90 or less, which tigerdirect has it for $90 currently.

Thats about Â£60 over here and thats what the H50 will cost me lol
The H70 is retailing at Â£80 which is about $126.


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Infinitegrim* 
H70 is only worth it if you get it for $90 or less, which tigerdirect has it for $90 currently.

I just ordered one from Tigerdirect for $89.99 (includes taxes and shipping)
the sale ends today and you need a code. I think the code is on the previous page in this thread.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SheepMoose* 
Are these fans any good for the H70?

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...oducts_id=8022

What about scythe fans? Which scythe fans would be good for getting the lowest temps?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *shapiror06* 
They L\\look decent. Comparable static pressure to the Gentle Typhoons, but actually quieter, by about 10dBa if I remember the GTs specs correctly.

When looking to upgrade a fan on a radiator, always go for the highest static pressure you can find while maintaining a preferable sound level.

Those fans perform on par with GTs but they are a bit louder but still comfortable. Their specs are bogus though, especially the dB rating since it's spec'ed at its lowest rpm. They are also cheaply made compared to a GT and you should be able to find them for ~$10.


----------



## zothos

Im using my Hydro H-50 in Push/Pull mode with the Radiator on the back of my case exhausting out.










http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/612436-corsair-h50-hydro-series-owners-club.html#post7690988







: : The Official Corsair H50/H70 Hydro Series Club : :


----------



## jprovido

just got my h50









before:









NOW









now im gonna get me a ram cooler and sleeves for my motherboard power cables


----------



## Kahbrohn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SheepMoose* 
Are these fans any good for the H70?

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...oducts_id=8022

What about scythe fans? Which scythe fans would be good for getting the lowest temps?

$15? Hmmm... I saw those at $10.99 at my local CompUSA all though they were in green. I did read that the db's they state is the low end. They do not mention the high end db's. I think someone measured the db's on their own and got something into the mid to high 30 db's.

Also, I believe they they are not PWM's if that is what you are looking for.


----------



## Kahbrohn

Just bought a H50-1 yesterday. Will be slapping on a couple of Coolink SWiF2-120p's in a push/pull setup. Will try both as intake and exhaust an see what results I get. Will post my findings and pix then. I will install next Tuesday since I am flying out today on a biz trip and wont be back until Monday...










Damn... I hate getting new funky colored toys and not being able to play with them... YET!


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kahbrohn* 
$15? Hmmm... I saw those at $10.99 at my local CompUSA all though they were in green. I did read that the db's they state is the low end. They do not mention the high end db's. I think someone measured the db's on their own and got something into the mid to high 30 db's.

Also, I believe they they are not PWM's if that is what you are looking for.

Wait .....

Are the Scythe GentleTyphoon D1225C12B5AP-15 120mm Case Fan PWM's?

I hope so!


----------



## Wingzero

Well the delivery man just delivered me a brand new in box h50 fresh from RMA.

And wow i'm back at 4Ghz stable with 35-40c idle temps


----------



## WhiteDog

Hi Forum,

I have a few thought and questions about the H50/H70. I have considered this, as it's a fairly easy way to watercool your cpu, without all the hazzle about getting the right block, rad, fittings etc.

Right now, my PC is running inside a Lian Li PC-P50R Armorsuit case, which from my point of view, has excellent airflow. I have a Zalman CNPS9900 NT aircooler on my i7-930, running at 4.0ghz stable.

I then saw/read a few reviews and from what I can see, in a simular setup like mine, I should get about 70-75c of temperature on my i7 @ 4ghz with the H50 and a tad lower with the H70. The temp was monitored by "Real Temp" and "CPUID hardware monitor" after 30 min of Prime95.
When I do 30 mins. of prime95 on my "aircooled" setup I get 74c in Real Temp and 72c in CPUID hardware monitor on core #0 (which always is the hottest). The temp diff. between all cores is 4c, so it's seated perfectly.

But this just don't blow my pants off. Is that all I can expect from the H50/70, if so I would better of with aircooling.

What kind of temps are you guys getting ?


----------



## M1nUrThr3t

I believe you should see a slight drop with the right setup. Lap the heatsink with push pull setup and you should see improvement


----------



## Crazy^^Red

Im always being paranoid that my H50 would suddenly burst. Why am i being so paranoid. No im not on crack. Im just afraid.







here is my setup.


----------



## AK_Dad

Hi all, Almost all hardware stores have 1' and 3' length "all thread". It will be in a vertical rack along with steel and aluminum straight/angle stock. Cut to length with a hack saw or chop saw. Buy some 6-32 cap nuts and presto you can assemble any size/combination of shrouds and fans your little nerd heart desires.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mark_K*


Okay, I went to home depot and could not find any 2 3/4" 6/32 bolts. they guy that worked there said they dont care them as they are too long and would not hold up?

I then said how about 1/8 by 3" and he said thats the same as the 6/32 that he just said he didnt have......

where can I buy these bolts?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Lowes!!!!! They have what you need even in socket head style Which IMO are way nicer looking bolts.


----------



## Wingzero

Oh man 2 months i've been without watercooling now.

Booted up at stock clocks idle temps were 24-26C in bios!

OC'd to 4Ghz im looking at 35-40C idle!

Corsair FTW!


----------



## Crazy^^Red

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wingzero*


Oh man 2 months i've been without watercooling now.

Booted up at stock clocks idle temps were 24-26C in bios!

OC'd to 4Ghz im looking at 35-40C idle!

Corsair FTW!


Wow. Push pull?

I would like to push my CPU further to 3.8Ghz. But will the differences be noticeable ? Im on 3.6Ghz now.

Im idling at 32-35.


----------



## WhiteDog

H70 ordered. Together with the AX1200 PSU.

I'll get back with air vs. water temps on my setup later


----------



## Wingzero

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Crazy^^Red* 
Wow. Push pull?

I would like to push my CPU further to 3.8Ghz. But will the differences be noticeable ? Im on 3.6Ghz now.

Im idling at 32-35.

I did push pull but with odd fans and all it did was make it louder no difference in temps im gonna get some good quiet fans and go push pull.

And I know it's an i7 but when OC'd to 4 i saw a bit of a speed increase around general system opening times.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Crazy^^Red* 
Wow. Push pull?

I would like to push my CPU further to 3.8Ghz. But will the differences be noticeable ? Im on 3.6Ghz now.

Im idling at 32-35.

You already have a darn good OC for that chip. I dont think most went much faster. But why not try 3.8 add see how your voltage/temps are.


----------



## PCSarge

i do miss this club, decided being one of the few of us originals left, namely me, should check in, i still use the H50 rad, but in a custom loop,my temps were decent at 4ghz with the H50, but i wanted my pc freezing cold, my load temp only hits 37C now, so i cant complain, w/ the h50 i was about 56-58C load


----------



## Crazy^^Red

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
i do miss this club, decided being one of the few of us originals left, namely me, should check in, i still use the H50 rad, but in a custom loop,my temps were decent at 4ghz with the H50, but i wanted my pc freezing cold, my load temp only hits 37C now, so i cant complain, w/ the h50 i was about 56-58C load

Welcome back









Some people are just too particular over their temps. I was like that at first. Eventho my temps are low, im still not satisfied and wanted lower temps. I ended up getting almost every heat-pipe coolers out there and all i get was 2-3 degrees difference in load.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
i do miss this club, decided being one of the few of us originals left, namely me, should check in, i still use the H50 rad, but in a custom loop,my temps were decent at 4ghz with the H50, but i wanted my pc freezing cold, my load temp only hits 37C now, so i cant complain, w/ the h50 i was about 56-58C load

Hey PCSarge, I'm still here too checking on this thread now and then. I'm thinking of moving up to a full water cooling loop as well. The H50 just gives people a taste of how great water cooling can be.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Hey PCSarge, I'm still here too checking on this thread now and then. I'm thinking of moving up to a full water cooling loop as well. The H50 just gives people a taste of how great water cooling can be.










It can be very great, but not as simple as the H50/H70


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


It can be very great, but not as simple as the H50/H70










That's true and not as inexpensive either.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


That's true and not as inexpensive either.










That too


----------



## dude120

Quote:


Originally Posted by *zothos* 
Im using my Hydro H-50 in Push/Pull mode with the Radiator on the back of my case exhausting out.










http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/612436-corsair-h50-hydro-series-owners-club.html#post7690988







: : The Official Corsair H50/H70 Hydro Series Club : :










Are temps better than before with that setup?


----------



## Trademark

Powered By Corsair H70 Push/Pull
running i7 930 4.2GHz 1.244V HT Enabled 24/7 Stable 18hours prime 95 stable










You Tube


----------



## XtachiX




----------



## gordesky1

I have couple questions is it worth upgrading too the h70 from h50 worth it?

I was thinking of of upgrading too a 1090t soon and might get the h70 after that but wanted too be sure if it was worth the upgrade from the h50?

Like what is the temp differences between the two ?


----------



## Mark_K

I would keep the h50 and add an additional fan.


----------



## jprovido

h50 rules! I just got mine a couple of days ago. a big improvement from my coolermaster v10. now I need to get me a mem cooler and sleeves for the cables


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jprovido* 
h50 rules! I just got mine a couple of days ago. a big improvement from my coolermaster v10. now I need to get me a mem cooler and sleeves for the cables



















Your memory is in the wrong slots. I have the same board and it should be in the two slots closest to the CPU (may affect your overclocked stability). Also it looks like you have you cables squashed under your motherboard to try to hide them because your case is lacking built in cable management. Again not a good idea.


----------



## jprovido

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
Your memory is in the wrong slots. I have the same board and it should be in the two slots closest to the CPU (may affect your overclocked stability). Also it looks like you have you cables squashed under your motherboard to try to hide them because your case is lacking built in cable management. Again not a good idea.









wow really? Ive had my mems on that slot for more than a year now lol.

they have holes on the back of the motherboard so they are being squashed by the motherboard how is it bad? ive done it with basically all my pc builds









ty for the inputs. i love how a single post can be so informative at times


----------



## gordesky1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mark_K* 
I would keep the h50 and add an additional fan.

Forgot too say that i do use push and pull setup, Well not at the moment because i have it installed on my 922 on top of the case and both fans wont fit that way, But having it installed like this seems like im getting more improvement than i had with push and pull when it was installed normal in the back of the case.

The temps im getting now i guess are ok about 50s load which not really great for oc on this cpu sense i cant get the cpu stable at its max overclock which is around 4.2ghzs if it stays 50c and under it stays stable.

But i problee am getting the 1090t so the overclock on the 965 is pretty much not important, I guess i see how that goes first sense i herd they run cooler than the x4s.

But does anyone know how much better the h70 is? Like how much better in degrees will it cool than the h50?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gordesky1*


Forgot too say that i do use push and pull setup, Well not at the moment because i have it installed on my 922 on top of the case and both fans wont fit that way, But having it installed like this seems like im getting more improvement than i had with push and pull when it was installed normal in the back of the case.

The temps im getting now i guess are ok about 50s load which not really great for oc on this cpu sense i cant get the cpu stable at its max overclock which is around 4.2ghzs if it stays 50c and under it stays stable.

But i problee am getting the 1090t so the overclock on the 965 is pretty much not important, I guess i see how that goes first sense i herd they run cooler than the x4s.

But does anyone know how much better the h70 is? Like how much better in degrees will it cool than the h50?


Just sent you a PM on your settings. We have almost the same set-up and I've asked this same questions a few times. Doesn't seem to be anyone on here with a AMD 965 C3 that switched to the H70 from the H50.


----------



## gordesky1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Just sent you a PM on your settings. We have almost the same set-up and I've asked this same questions a few times. Doesn't seem to be anyone on here with a AMD 965 C3 that switched to the H70 from the H50.











sent you a pm









Ya i also cant find any results with the 965 from h50 too h70 pretty much ony intels but from there tests it shows about 5 too 8c difference which is pretty nice.

But again it seems like any cooler i get the results is different from anyone else's setup and i always get hotter temps than them.. lol

And my 922 is loaded too the max with fans lol


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gordesky1* 
sent you a pm









Ya i also cant find any results with the 965 from h50 too h70 pretty much ony intels but from there tests it shows about 5 too 8c difference which is pretty nice.

But again it seems like any cooler i get the results is different from anyone else's setup and i always get hotter temps than them.. lol

And my 922 is loaded too the max with fans lol

I hear that. PM sent. Thxs for the info. That's why I'm thinking about a full liquid cooling loop to take the 965 C3 to at least 4.2 or higher.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
I hear that. PM sent. Thxs for the info. That's why I'm thinking about a full liquid cooling loop to take the 965 C3 to at least 4.2 or higher.

that's because reality.. unless you have a massive great ambients.. you won't be able to do 4.2 or higher on a H50 or H70... AMD likes extreme cold and then it overclocks extremely well... my best bet which is literally on any cooler... if where you live you do get a winter season... that is the best time to do those overclocks







... on summer its better to downclock

just hope your 965 is one of the lucky chips who can stable over 4.2ghz

And full custom water cooling.. is always better(if its a good properllydone WC setup) to achieve higher overclocks all year round.... minor issue maintenance would be required.


----------



## MicahFett

Granted, I don't have my system overclocked (yet) but after 2 hours of SC II I'm only at 39C with my H70. Idle at ~30.

Much satisfaction.


----------



## wrc05

Hope I'm not late, here's mine:


----------



## d33r

Add me plz


----------



## semajha

Noob question and I apologize if this was asked a thousand times but do I need to apply thermal paste on the cpu using the h70 kit? From my understanding the H70 comes pre applied with thermal paste.


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *semajha* 
Noob question and I apologize if this was asked a thousand times but do I need to apply thermal paste on the cpu using the h70 kit? From my understanding the H70 comes pre applied with thermal paste.

It comes pre-applied. However, some people have reported their H50/H70 coming out of the box new with TOO MUCH thermal paste. Which, through previous studies has been shown to reduce the heatsink's performance.

It's good thermal paste, so start off using it. Some people have had better performance by removing it and using their own.


----------



## semajha

Thanks for the quick response shapiror. That's good to know. Hope you guys can help me out when I get my H70. I can post pics of the block to see if there's too much thermal paste.


----------



## Drogue

Added meself.

Just bought this from Mastical with 2 Scythe Ultra Kaze 3k fans. Installed as push/pull exhaust with one fan on outside of case.


----------



## jprovido

still needs a lot of tidying up with the cables. add me up


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *semajha*


Thanks for the quick response shapiror. That's good to know. Hope you guys can help me out when I get my H70. I can post pics of the block to see if there's too much thermal paste.


I have not seen the H70 block up in person to see the amount of TIM on it only pictures it looked okay for the amount on it to me but the H50 definitely has way too much. The suggestion I give anyone in either case is if it has too much TIM then put on a rubber glove and take off the TIM and ball it up and split it in half then re-apply it.


----------



## Mark_K

I have the same memory cooler!


----------



## digital_steve

^ wow!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jprovido* 

















still needs a lot of tidying up with the cables. add me up









That motherboard looks familiar to me


----------



## jprovido

a little OT but I just modded my mem cooler because it's blocking the view ofmy very beautiful corsair h50 cooler and I can see my very ugly value rams lol










now:









sawed off the extra metal voila, I can see you again my lovely h50


----------



## AK-47

Just installed my h70 and Meh....
Don't think the cm690 II and h70 go well together. I put 1 of the fans on the outside and my case can't close on top. Also the manual says I should connect the fans to the Cpu_fan connector but they can't reach. And the opening underneath the mobo was too far up by like 1/4". I had to loosen up the mobo to fit the piece that goes underneath the mobo. cm 690 II Seems like poor choice of case for the h70 or bad planning by me.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AK-47* 
Just installed my h70 and Meh....
Don't think the cm690 II and h70 go well together. I put 1 of the fans on the outside and my case can't close on top. Also the manual says I should connect the fans to the Cpu_fan connector but they can't reach. And the opening underneath the mobo was too far up by like 1/4". I had to loosen up the mobo to fit the piece that goes underneath the mobo. cm 690 II Seems like poor choice of case for the h70 or bad planning by me.

I'm a bit confused, perhaps a picture?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AK-47* 
Just installed my h70 and Meh....
Don't think the cm690 II and h70 go well together. I put 1 of the fans on the outside and my case can't close on top. Also the manual says I should connect the fans to the Cpu_fan connector but they can't reach. And the opening underneath the mobo was too far up by like 1/4". I had to loosen up the mobo to fit the piece that goes underneath the mobo. cm 690 II Seems like poor choice of case for the h70 or bad planning by me.

There is a lot of people here with the same case maybe if some of them can comment on their setups it would give you some help on yours.


----------



## semajha

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AK-47* 
Just installed my h70 and Meh....
Don't think the cm690 II and h70 go well together. I put 1 of the fans on the outside and my case can't close on top. Also the manual says I should connect the fans to the Cpu_fan connector but they can't reach. And the opening underneath the mobo was too far up by like 1/4". I had to loosen up the mobo to fit the piece that goes underneath the mobo. cm 690 II Seems like poor choice of case for the h70 or bad planning by me.


Sucks to hear..







I'll be using the same case with the H70.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *semajha* 
Sucks to hear..








I'll be using the same case with the H70.

I will be soon as well. Not sure why it won't close though. I really hope he posts a picture and we'll be able to see what really is going on.


----------



## MicahFett

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AK-47* 
Just installed my h70 and Meh....
Don't think the cm690 II and h70 go well together. I put 1 of the fans on the outside and my case can't close on top. *Also the manual says I should connect the fans to the Cpu_fan connector* but they can't reach. And the opening underneath the mobo was too far up by like 1/4". I had to loosen up the mobo to fit the piece that goes underneath the mobo. cm 690 II Seems like poor choice of case for the h70 or bad planning by me.

I'm not at home looking at my H70, but I'm fairly certain that the instructions say to connect the PUMP to the CPU_Fan connector; not the fans. Just connect the fans to any fan header they can reach.

Edit: I was wrong, the instructions do say to attach the fans to the CPU_Fan connection.

Also, make sure that you go into your BIOS and set the CPU_Fan speed to manual so that the pump runs max RPM at all times and does not scale with CPU temperature. This feature may be called something like "CPU Smart Fan" or whatever, just disable it.

For reference, the pump should run at ~1400 rpm. Mine seems to run about 1385 rpm.

Finally, like others requested, definitely post a pic and people can help you with orientation, etc. Hope things work out for ya


----------



## AK-47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MicahFett*


I'm not at home looking at my H70, but I'm fairly certain that the instructions say to connect the PUMP to the CPU_Fan connector; not the fans. Just connect the fans to any fan header they can reach.

Also, make sure that you go into your BIOS and set the CPU_Fan speed to manual so that the pump runs max RPM at all times and does not scale with CPU temperature. This feature may be called something like "CPU Smart Fan" or whatever, just disable it.

For reference, the pump should run at ~1400 rpm. Mine seems to run about 1385 rpm.

Finally, like others requested, definitely post a pic and people can help you with orientation, etc. Hope things work out for ya










Maybe i read it wrong since I am a man and manuals are beneath me. So i only looked at it real quick.

I placed 1 fan on the outside like so because I plan to use a 50 mm shroud and 38 mm 3k rmp ultra kaze so i wanted to conserve room on the inside









The top right thumb screws can't go in since having the fan on the outside doesn't allow panel to line up with the hole



















It still closes so it's not the end of world I guess but only secured by the bottom thumb screw.

I have it set up as exhaust atm. when i get my videocards I'll try different settings to see what works best.


----------



## Silvos00

I have a very similar problem with my case, and it is sort of a pain to make it work the way it should. I had to unscrew the fan and pull it away from the case a bit everytime I wanted to take the side panel off.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Well the side panel on these cases go on really good even without thumbscrew, at least mine does. So If you just have one I think you are more than good my friend.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MicahFett*


I'm not at home looking at my H70, but I'm fairly certain that the instructions say to connect the PUMP to the CPU_Fan connector; not the fans. Just connect the fans to any fan header they can reach.

Also, make sure that you go into your BIOS and set the CPU_Fan speed to manual so that the pump runs max RPM at all times and does not scale with CPU temperature. This feature may be called something like "CPU Smart Fan" or whatever, just disable it.

For reference, the pump should run at ~1400 rpm. Mine seems to run about 1385 rpm.

Finally, like others requested, definitely post a pic and people can help you with orientation, etc. Hope things work out for ya










Unless they changed the instructions with the H70 compared to the H50 no he had it right the fan(s) go to the CPU header(because that is where a fan is meant to be anyways 4pin for fans vs 3pin for pump) and the pump is suppose to go on any spare header.

And just like you said for best performance of course check bios to make sure the pump is at max and the fan isn't throttled by any bios settings.

After everything is setup and running and temps are good/great for you specially with the H70 you may want to change bios settings to allow throttling of the fan based on CPU temps because the stock fans at least are loud when unrestricted at 2k rpm.


----------



## semajha

Okay guys, how does the thermal paste look on my block... Too much?


----------



## digital_steve

Don't connect the fans to your motherboard at all if you don't want to; run everything off your PSU... at least you know they're all running at full pace then.

I personally only connect my pump to the motherboard and i run it from the CPU header as it's closest.


----------



## Mark_K

If it came with the TIM on it then your good to go.
You may be over teching it.


----------



## coolbeans

Hey guys, noob here. My h70 came today and after installing it, my computer wont boot up!







it powers up for 1 second then shuts off right away before post. This is my first build and was working fine for the last 3 months until today after i installed the h70. Anyone know what could be wrong?

I've checked the power connections on the mobo and the h70 is screwed in pretty snug so i don't think its overheating. Everything was working fine an hr ago with the stock intel cooler. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks


----------



## solar0987

my temps are amazing like totally...
using h50 with stock fan as pull, push fan is a thermaltake thunderblade blue led, im so impressed by it, i got my cpu to 3.8 and i havent seen it go above 40c no matter what i do or how hot it gets in my room pics to prove it







sorry about crappy pics used cell phone camera.... ya it sucks lol


----------



## solar0987

Also using stock tim and have it set to exaust<-- don't think thats spelled right the temps are after a hour of occt next is to mod it to have clear tubes and a resevior.Do you think the pump in the h50 is enought to handle a resivior and a gpu cooler? Like this
http://www.tilatech.com/products/EK-...er-Block-.html


----------



## sendblink23

deleted


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *solar0987* 
my temps are amazing like totally...
using h50 with stock fan as pull, push fan is a thermaltake thunderblade blue led, im so impressed by it, i got my cpu to 3.8 and i havent seen it go above 40c no matter what i do or how hot it gets in my room pics to prove it







sorry about crappy pics used cell phone camera.... ya it sucks lol

I think i've read around that the temps of the 6 cores amd are not read properly by temp monitoring softwares... that its actually 10c above what it reads

Eitherway.... your idle is 15-16c... which is Impossible(unless your ambients in the room is 8-10c) ... what is your room ambient temps? There is no way the cpu is cooler than your ambients


----------



## koven

hey guys, i'm about to push/pull my h50 and was wondering if i should do it in exhaust this time? right now it's stock fan intaking

i have an antec 900 so 2 fans pulling air from the front, and one 200mm blowing out the top

im worried if i do intake on the push/pull, it might create a weird pressure inside the case and the 200mm fan won't be strong enough to blow enough air out


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *koven* 
hey guys, i'm about to push/pull my h50 and was wondering if i should do it in exhaust this time? right now it's stock fan intaking

i have an antec 900 so 2 fans pulling air from the front, and one 200mm blowing out the top

im worried if i do intake on the push/pull, it might create a weird pressure inside the case and the 200mm fan won't be strong enough to blow enough air out

Exhaust H50 - leave the case fans as is... Front Intake, Exhaust Top

Its perfectly fine & the correct way of having it according to your case fans set up


----------



## solar0987

well i have the new revision chip it reads the same as bios does ther is no 10 degree window there and right before i took off the stock cooler temps were around 35c idle after the h50 they dropped to 15-16c idle 33 under load at 3.8 ghz with either prime or occt full load so i unno all i know is ive used a temp gun to also verify the temps they are actually that low


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *solar0987* 
well i have the new revision chip it reads the same as bios does ther is no 10 degree window there and right before i took off the stock cooler temps were around 35c idle after the h50 they dropped to 15-16c idle 33 under load at 3.8 ghz with either prime or occt full load so i unno all i know is ive used a temp gun to also verify the temps they are actually that low

Well indeed it seems you have awesome ambients then








By the way since I did ask.. what is your room ambient temps?

I wanna have a room that cold


----------



## solar0987

oh sorry usually around 70 degrees f do you think the pump in hte h50 is strong enought to accomadate a mini resivior and a gpu water block?
like say these
http://www.xoxide.com/swiftech-mcres-micro.html
http://www.tilatech.com/products/EK-...er-Block-.html


----------



## solar0987

ya ive only had it for a couple weeks i didnt wanna spent the hundred or more dollars on the h70 i looked at coolers for like a months straight i get so anal about stuff but thats good u guess i have a azza solarno case and it had a 150mm clearance so the taller heatsinks were outta the question as i need the side 230mm fan for cooling my 460 soon to be 2 460's







i love this cooler i think its the best one ive ever owned, in my old case i had a nd14 this cooler smokes a noctura nd14


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *solar0987* 
oh sorry usually around 70 degrees f do you think the pump in hte h50 is strong enought to accomadate a mini resivior and a gpu water block?

There you go IMPOSSIBLE 70f = 21c

Like I told you NO WAY your CPU is COOLER THAN YOUR AMBIENTS
Ask anyone... unless you are doing full custom water cooling with Liquid Nitrogen is when you can go lower than your room ambients

Its a real fact

Like I said your temp readings are wrong even the bios... probably your gun is wacko too

To be able to pull off 15c on a cpu, you need ambient rooms of 8-10c and you have 21c see what what I mean? No matter if its new revision etc.. its a real fact of ambients vs computer cooling.. there is no possibility to have your cpu colder than your room ambients.. unless it were LN2

I'm certain your actual temps are 10c above what you currently are seeing... yours will not be any different than all the people with 1055t 95w or 125w, or 1075t or even 1090t... they all have the same issue of temps reading

Only some boards that bring a software for monitoring that it will show the correct temps.. I think it was ASUS PC Probe... I assume it only works on asus mobo's


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
There you go IMPOSSIBLE 70f = 21c

Like I told you NO WAY your CPU is COOLER THAN YOUR AMBIENTS
Ask anyone... unless you are doing full custom water cooling with Liquid Nitrogen is when you can go lower than your room ambients

Its a real fact

Like I said your temp readings are wrong even the bios... probably your gun is wacko too

To be able to pull off 15c on a cpu, you need ambient rooms of 8-10c and you have 21c see what what I mean? No matter if its new revision etc.. its a real fact of ambients vs computer cooling.. there is no possibility to have your cpu colder than your room ambients.. unless it were LN2

I'm certain your actual temps are 10c above what you currently are seeing... yours will not be any different than all the people with 1055t 95w or 125w, or 1075t or even 1090t... they all have the same issue of temps reading

Only some boards that bring a software for monitoring that it will show the correct temps.. I think it was ASUS PC Probe... I assume it only works on asus mobo's

I agree. Unless there is a source of cooling below ambients (ie. liquid nitrogen or in-line refrigeration type unit) it is impossible to get temps below ambients.

The IR thermometer is reading the temps on the heatspreader, not the temps on the die. It is impossible to measure individual core temps with anything but the built in temperature sensors, which must be wrong with that chip.


----------



## solar0987

it is also sitting over the register that blows the ac into the room.. why its so hot in my room and the gun works just fine! in my case there is room for a bottom mounted 120mm fan i have it blowing cold air into the case the only exaust fans i have are the h50 and the top 230 that i currently have shut off so all the cold air goes throught the h50, and when winter hits i plan on running cold air from outside throught it so ya... sorry,the temps are pretty inpressive thought







and you still haven't answered the question about the pump i cant find anywhere on the net the specs of it and on a same not soon i will remove the fan at the bottom and run a duct to the h50 for straight ac throught it seeing as how nothign in my computer really gets that hot anyways minus the cpu


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *solar0987* 
ya ive only had it for a couple weeks i didnt wanna spent the hundred or more dollars on the h70 i looked at coolers for like a months straight i get so anal about stuff but thats good u guess i have a azza solarno case and it had a 150mm clearance so the taller heatsinks were outta the question as i need the side 230mm fan for cooling my 460 soon to be 2 460's







i love this cooler i think its the best one ive ever owned, in my old case i had a nd14 this cooler smokes a noctura nd14

And to your reality wrong... it has been proven countless of times Noctua NH-D14 beats the H50 & H70 - I don't believe you actually owned one or if you did.. you probably didn't do proper testings, you probably seated it wrong or something because I've already even compared it my self as for being a previous H50 owner

I even asked people to compare my overclock with theirs, no one with good fans push/pull with shrouds + good TIM didn't beat my stock Noctua
Doing the same test (linX 20 passes "All" button pressed 8gb ram) and I'm on ambients of 25-27f(outside my room is 90f 24/7)
4.10ghz 1.5v 2800NB 1.35v - idle 30c | max load 52c
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1324947
http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/6...8nbcpunb13.jpg

And that's a stress burning test, on Prime95 on Blend after 3 hours my max was only 48

Find someone to beat it.. but he must have similar ambients, CPU 965BE C3, 8gb ram, SLI or CrossfireX... so that it can be a proper comparison

Only way I've seen close to, it was lapped CPU & H50 heatsink... and still that was compare to my Noctua on Stock.. imagine me changing the TIM, adding 3 shrouds & 2 x 3000rpm fans(Fan<Shroud<Left Tower<Shroud<Right Tower<Shroud<Fan)... I'll woop it even more... want me lower.. then i'll lap my cpu & noctua heatsink









If someone is going to compare, don't forget to run linX right-click it > Run As Administrator for that the test is stresses correctly or it won't stress anything at all


----------



## solar0987

and even so ok add 10 degress 26 idle is still awesome lol but ya its 16







GOGO AC


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *solar0987* 
it is also sitting over the register that blows the ac into the room.. why its so hot in my room and the gun works just fine in my case there is room for a bottom mounted 120mm fan i have it blowing cold air into the case the only exaust fans i have are the h50 and the top 230 that i currently have shut off so all the cold air goes throught the h50 and when winter hits i plan on running cold air from outside throught it so ya... sorry,the temps are pretty inpressive thought







and you still haven't answered the question about the pump i cant find anywhere on the net the specs of it and on a same not soon i will remove the fan at the bottom and run a duct to the h50 for straight ac throuhgt it seeing as how nothign in my computer really gets that hot anyways

Well sheesh... that makes more sense. Like I said, without an "outside cooling source" (in your case, the refrigerant in your A/C system cooling the air below normal ambients, and not to mention A/C removes moisture from the air too) that would normally be impossible. I don't have central air, but when I turn on my window unit and blow it right at my intake fans of my case, I get at least a 10c drop too.


----------



## solar0987

lol thats aloot of useless work and yes i owned a nh d14 imo there junk there is like 500 diff reviews for it they all say somehting different one says it the best one doesnt look at the frostytech review of every amd heatsink it rates pretty low on there list....... apples to oranges my friend


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *solar0987* 
lol thats aloot of useless work and yes i owned a nh d14 imo there junk there is like 500 diff reviews for it they all say somehting different one says it the best one doesnt look at the frostytech review of every amd heatsink it rates pretty low on there list....... apples to oranges my friend

I agree with you. Plain and simple, water has a higher thermal conductivity than air. Thus, there is NO WAY an air cooler can out perform water cooling.

I suppose now someone will come back with the argument that the H50/70 are not "true" water cooling setups...


----------



## solar0987

and if you looked at my pics ther is also a occt pic i know ther crappy but they work there is also a pic of the hw monitor highest was 33c but neways why you so buthurt my friend?Ive also ran prime for hours on end it dont go any higher if i could get 4.0 stable i would go ther but so far im outta luck with all my efforts...


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *solar0987* 
...but neways why you so buthurt my friend?...

I'm sorry, but I do not understand this part.


----------



## solar0987

Well sheesh... that makes more sense. Like I said, without an "outside cooling source" (in your case, the refrigerant in your A/C system cooling the air below normal ambients, and not to mention A/C removes moisture from the air too) that would normally be impossible. I don't have central air, but when I turn on my window unit and blow it right at my intake fans of my case, I get at least a 10c drop too.
Yes i know that im not a moron lol
computer cant cool more than what the air inside of it is


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *solar0987* 
and even so ok add 10 degress 26 idle is still awesome lol but ya its 16







GOGO AC

Did you read my test.. my 4.10Ghz 1.5v 2800NB 1.35v... my idle is 30c

In other words I beat you LOL on Air cooling with no "fake" cold cooling as you have done on your computer... which is isn't real proper cooling test

So beat mines lol joking ofcourse I don't have a 6 cores... we can't compare on anything.... but I'll buy 1 soon probably a 1090t

To your other question...
Read back many pages on this thread.... to see what res mods work with the H50
The Pump is rated at 1400rpm


----------



## solar0987

that was geared toward blink pretty much why is he trying to argue a point and show who's right why he getting so defensive i just say but hurt lol


----------



## solar0987

and UMMM math hmmmm even add 10 degress like you say thats 26c which last time i checked is LOWER than 30c


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shapiror06* 
I agree with you. Plain and simple, water has a higher thermal conductivity than air. Thus, there is NO WAY an air cooler can out perform water cooling.

I suppose now someone will come back with the argument that the H50/70 are not "true" water cooling setups...

Dude it has been PROVED ALREADY - the Noctua beats the H50 & H70

An H50 or H70 is not REAL CUSTOM WATER COOLING, so it doesn't really compare to a cooling of a real water cooling system, That is why in reviews its compared to Air Cooling heatsinks


----------



## solar0987

ok rpm sorry i didnt troll throught the pages







what about flow rate?


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *solar0987* 
and UMMM math hmmmm even add 10 degress like you say thats 26c which last time i checked is LOWER than 30c

Are you DUMB you have 3.8ghz I have 4.10Ghz 1.5v 2800NB 1.35v which is allot more heat than what you currently have and i do 30c waffles









So if you were 4Ghz you will be much higher inidle temps = you will not be 28c idle


----------



## solar0987

once again proved by who look up 100 different reviews you get 100 differnt answers and it has everything that a water cooler has minus a resevior lol its just compacted.....


----------



## solar0987

can you pull whatever is logged in your but out please....honestly who cares i was just happy about my temps and you took it into a almost 2 page arguement lol


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *solar0987* 
can you pull whatever is logged in your but out please....honestly who cares i was just happy about my temps and you took it into a almost 2 page arguement lol

and you helped him prolong it for two pages
maybe you should both f*ck up?


----------



## sendblink23

shhhhhhh

I erased it.. because I made it a war - very wrong on my part to do so on this thread


----------



## solar0987

blink i bid you a farewell nighty night time








and i agree digital night to you also


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *solar0987* 
blink i bid you a farewell nighty night time :d
and i agree digital night to you also

=p


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *solar0987* 
ok rpm sorry i didnt troll throught the pages







what about flow rate?

I tried searching around this thread... only thing i saw related to flow rate quickly surfing was this:


----------



## Chicken Patty

Can any of the H70 owners with AMD systems post up some of the temps please? Looking to get a H70 soon and was wondering what to expect more or less.


----------



## jprovido

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Can any of the H70 owners with AMD systems post up some of the temps please? Looking to get a H70 soon and was wondering what to expect more or less.

temps are great with the 1090T. mine does not go beyond 50 degrees on prime.


----------



## ThumperSD

Will lapping my H50 drop my load temps by 5c?


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ThumperSD*


Will lapping my H50 drop my load temps by 5c?


it sure will, don't forget to lap the cpu too.... it will decrease even lower


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ThumperSD*


Will lapping my H50 drop my load temps by 5c?


lapping anything will lower temps.
Just ask my girl friend.......lol.


----------



## Zavia

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mark_K*


lapping anything will lower temps.
Just ask my girl friend.......lol.



Its so true my girlfriend loves a good lapping.





































So i finnaly got my replacement fan and have reattached it so now i have push fan, 25mm shroud, sliced open case, 38mm shroud, H50, pull fan.

(double shrouded because the panaflo has such a huge middle section so i wanted more vortex room for such large dead spot)

Am in process of getting my ssd rma'ed (got zapped or something







) have everything ready for the raid 5 but alas must wait for my ssd for os to return.

seems like every time i roll the dice i go forward 2 spaces then i get my hand slapped and sent back a space. ... of course now i am gonna be out of ideas for improvement... only step left would be lapping... maybe i will get some sandpaper and a few hours of time some time to give it ago.. this oc'ing games addictive.


----------



## Garanthor

Hey a fellow 965 C3 with the UD5P. What are your temps like with that semi-lapped H50?


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zavia* 
Its so true my girlfriend loves a good lapping.





































So i finnaly got my replacement fan and have reattached it so now i have push fan, 25mm shroud, sliced open case, 38mm shroud, H50, pull fan.

(double shrouded because the panaflo has such a huge middle section so i wanted more vortex room for such large dead spot)

Am in process of getting my ssd rma'ed (got zapped or something







) have everything ready for the raid 5 but alas must wait for my ssd for os to return.

seems like every time i roll the dice i go forward 2 spaces then i get my hand slapped and sent back a space. ... of course now i am gonna be out of ideas for improvement... only step left would be lapping... maybe i will get some sandpaper and a few hours of time some time to give it ago.. this oc'ing games addictive.

I just gave you a +Rep for Putting your lapping ahead of childish PC builds.....lol


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
Hey a fellow 965 C3 with the UD5P. What are your temps like with that semi-lapped H50?


......well, you can look for within my SIG, the screenshot's of *were* with the H50 before i start'd upon my
"CM SCOUT: _*SEAL*_ edition " project . . . .

...they do show of temp's at idle / load with the overclock...









mr-Charles . . .









.


----------



## sendblink23

deleted


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23*
sorry again for using yours in comparison *mr-Charles


.......Hey, no offense taken, and i don't mind the use of/for, {... i'm sure it could of been better if had lower ambient's ! ! };
just gave you WHAT i had for result's of the "question of search" you ask'd in this thread . . .
[ basically, = my 2







worth of help to ya...







]

mr-Charles . . .









.


----------



## sendblink23

hey how far is your SEAL I'm liking the log stuff you have done

hehehe just for a big laugh.... you know since Corsairs TX PSU's have tons of extra long cables etc... and we all hide them in the back....

look what i did on my case very ghetto to hide that mess of cables:








still looks pretty ugly even covering them


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
hey how far is your SEAL I'm liking the log stuff you have done

.. had to go for on-hold for a bit; have gotten quite a few other project's/ build's/ hardware upgrade&updates
for other people's rigg's i have lined up behind me and all......{hopefully, ya know what i mean...} BUT, I do have
quite a few upgrades & changes coming up with pic's as well, thnx for checking out and all...








[ aka = changing tubing throughout/ Full Nickel-Acetal waterblock for the Video card/ added>>> another RAD,
for the extra in adding the GPU cooling......and maybe even more ]
Like i stated, my time for upon *MY-own* project is spotty, BUT I'll get to there & show-up the updates asap . . .
...{ jst bear with me and all... }

mr-Charles . . .









.


----------



## mr-Charles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
hey how far is your SEAL I'm liking the log stuff you have done

hehehe just for a big laugh.... you know since Corsairs TX PSU's have tons of extra long cables etc... and we all hide them in the back....

look what i did on my case very ghetto to hide that mess of cables:








still looks pretty ugly even covering them


. . . .







. . . . . .







. . . . .







. . . . .







. . . . . i'm almost afraid to ask WHAT it look's like under that
"Mirage>>>cover" there? ! ? ! !







....{LOLOlolol} ...

...look's to have a few "bulges-O-bump's" for here and thar.....
















mr-Charles . . .









.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
. . . .







. . . . . .







. . . . .







. . . . .







. . . . . i'm almost afraid to ask WHAT it look's like under that
"Mirage>>>cover" there? ! ? ! !







....{LOLOlolol} ...

...look's to have a few "bulges-O-bump's" for here and thar.....
















mr-Charles . . .









.

You don't wanna know whats behind it LOL
The issues....my case the space on the whole 5.25" area is a bit short on width.... the TX850 has allot more cables compared to the TX750 & TX650.... the other issue.. haha I am not good at organizing them

For me to add the side door.. I literally have to put my case side ways on flat floor, use my body weight to add/close it hahahaa I'm not joking if I don't do that i can't close/add the side panel door.

Its looking pretty good the new changes that are going... yeah you need to post the pics when its done *I subbed on your thread log


----------



## mr-Charles

...i can tell you that i help'd a guy install his H50 and he pretty much show'd me how he "MADE" a NEW cover for that
side with having it "mold'd" with an out-ward Bubble-like, just for all that cable's to hide and all.....Basically he mold'd
an 1/8" thick piece of Lexan, [he got from Home Depot/ cut for larger size of],
then set it up upon a *"17inch x 17inch" square like wood frame,*
and laid the lexan over and just heated up the 4 side's till they went flat upon the table surface OVER the wood frame.....
...let i cool off, checked it out & made his drill hole's to be placed upon the case; then flipped over with the inside
pointing upwards, made sure all was clean enough and painted the inside with flat-black > > > IF you can picture that,
it was a really cool looking side cover for that one side to hide all PLUS have that extra room needed . . . . .

....just an Idea to throw at ya for what i have witness'd and sorry to say i didn't even get the chance to get any pic's of,
but, still, simple & even cost effective project for the DIY 'r . . . .

*EDIT=* just edit'd the size of the side-cover measurement's...

mr-Charles . . .









.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mr-Charles* 
...i can tell you that i help'd a guy install his H50 and he pretty much show'd me how he "MADE" a NEW cover for that
side with having it "mold'd" with an out-ward Bubble-like, just for all that cable's to hide and all.....Basically he mold'd
an 1/8" thick piece of Lexan, [he got from Home Depot/ cut for larger size of], then set it up upon a 2 x 4 square like frame,
and laid the lexan over and just heated up the 4 side's till they went flat upon the table surface OVER the wood frame.....
...let i cool off, checked it out & made his drill hole's to be placed upon the case; then flipped over with the inside
pointing upwards, made sure all was clean enough and painted the inside with flat-black > > > IF you can picture that,
it was a really cool looking side cover for that one side to hide all PLUS have that extra room needed . . . . .

....just an Idea to throw at ya for what i have witness'd and sorry to say i didn't even get the chance to get any pic's of,
but, still, simple & even cost effective project for the DIY 'r . . . .

mr-Charles . . .









.

okok I will most likely try that. I am currently changing to a newer case "Rosewill Challenger" right now(arrives in a few days), which is basically still *almost* similar as my current one... I'm gonna try first to see if I can make it nicer... but if i fail like my current case, then I will give that suggestion a try... since I have a home depot a few min away from me - it definitely sounds better *more extra space* on that side

*note* currently my 590 died on an accident a few days ago... a buddy of mine carrying it on the 2nd floor


----------



## digital_steve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
Hey a fellow 965 C3 with the UD5P. What are your temps like with that semi-lapped H50?

I PM'd you back mate.
Hope it helps


----------



## semajha

Another noob questions, sorry... How should I go about applying the thermal paste? I know there's different methods but what works best for the H70 kit? Should I just apply a small pea size in the middle or a line? And do you guys spread out the paste or just let the heat sink's pressure flatten it out?

btw I'm using Artic Silver Ceramique... got a small tube it but I'm wondering if it would be better to reuse the stock TIM that came with the h70?


----------



## d33r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *semajha* 
Another noob questions, sorry... How should I go about applying the thermal paste? I know there's different methods but what works best for the H70 kit? Should I just apply a small pea size in the middle or a line? And do you guys spread out the paste or just let the heat sink's pressure flatten it out?

btw I'm using Artic Silver Ceramique... got a small tube it but I'm wondering if it would be better to reuse the stock TIM that came with the h70?

you could try either the pea sized dot method...or a used credit card and apply it evenly across the heatsink/bottom h70 cooler...not sure which is better

im using the stock compound that was on it


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *semajha*


Another noob questions, sorry... How should I go about applying the thermal paste? I know there's different methods but what works best for the H70 kit? Should I just apply a small pea size in the middle or a line? And do you guys spread out the paste or just let the heat sink's pressure flatten it out?

btw I'm using Artic Silver Ceramique... got a small tube it but I'm wondering if it would be better to reuse the stock TIM that came with the h70?


IMHO the application method you choose should be more based upon the TIM you're using than the object you're applying it to(unless it's centered around the flat/roughness of it but this shouldn't be much of an issue with the H70). Personally, I dislike lines/manual spreads/multiple dots but if you're very careful and have some experience you can probably do a sufficient(max coverage and no air pockets) job. The good old BB/pea sized dot method is, I think, the easiest and most error-proof way of applying TIM if you take the right steps after application.

Here is a decent breakdown of some different methods:http://www.innovationcooling.com/app...structions.htm

although that is for IC7D, which is quite thick, you can still imagine pretty easily how TIMs that are less thick would react to the same methods. I viewed a youtube video on the different methods that was impartial and more detailed but can't remember the name - found it by doing a search for something like "TIM application" or "applying TIM" if I remember correctly.

As for re-using the stock Shin-etsu - If it is still pristine and there is not too much of it on there(as some have reported experiencing) then I would say go for it because it's definitely in the top 2-3 as far as TIMs go ATM(correct me if I'm wrong guys^^). Ideally there will be only enough TIM to fill the minuscule imperfections and that's it - any excess is actually going to impact your temps negatively. If it does seem like it has too much on it but you still want to use the shin-etsu, you can remove it/reapply only the desired amount but I'm not sure how exactly this is done w/o introducing foreign particles or air pockets but I'm sure someone here could help you with that.

Just my 2cents - hope it helps.


----------



## semajha

Thanks slimbrady, i'm starting to get real nervous about applying this stuff now.. lol.


----------



## jprovido

ahhhh. just apply a pea size drop on the middle of the processor. don't spread it anymore







just my opinion though. that's what I did to mine temps are great


----------



## ilocos boy

can u please add me.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *semajha* 
Thanks slimbrady, i'm starting to get real nervous about applying this stuff now.. lol.

NP man, hehe. Don't stress too much about it if you're not hyper sensitive to every possible 1c difference in temps...even guys who apply TIM 50 times a week still get variations(1-4c) in temps after each mount...pretty hard to get it exactly right since you're blinded by the base of the heat sync but practice never hurts. Placing your PC flat on the ground so that the cpu/hs are level helps. So does keeping a steady level of pressure once the TIM has made contact followed by criss-cross(top left, bottom right, top right, bottom left, repeat..) tightening of the screws as that will hopefully give you a more even spread.

Just try to make sure once the surfaces make contact they don't separate from each other. And if you're switching TIMs make sure you thoroughly clean the surfaces before applying the new stuff.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ilocos boy* 
can u please add me.

Post a pic of your setup for us to enjoy =) Then hop over to the first page and add yourself using the google spreadsheet. I think the founder of this thread gave up following it 500 or so pages ago, lol.


----------



## WhiteDog

My H70


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WhiteDog*


My H70











I want to see your full case... I love those colors that are visible


----------



## OneZero

Add me plx =)


----------



## Wingzero

Quote:



Originally Posted by *semajha*


Thanks slimbrady, i'm starting to get real nervous about applying this stuff now.. lol.


Should of just used the stuff it came pre applied with.

Shin Etsu is known as some of the best stuff around.


----------



## semajha

I would but there's just too much of it. The diameter of the paste is longer than the actual CPU.

Question for the people that use the stock TIM... aren't you worried about the paste dripping through the cervices? I mean if I apply the CPU cooler the way it is, the paste would also be on the cpu socket clamp.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *semajha* 
I would but there's just too much of it. The diameter of the paste is longer than the actual CPU.

Question for the people that use the stock TIM... aren't you worried about the paste dripping through the cervices? I mean if I apply the CPU cooler the way it is, the paste would also be on the cpu socket clamp.

i'm using the stock Shin Etsu from h70 all i did is upgraded my fan to GT AP15 for push/pull configuration. tested 10hours prime 95 last night and my max temp load bout 64-67.
anyway heres my cpu-z



might go back to 4.0GHz though i know my 4.2 is stable. but since im using 2 gtx 480 sc i'm getting so much heat from it. so i might as well go back to 4.0
anyway keep the stock TIM man from h50/h70 its really good. otherwise use Shin Etsu if u ever reseat it . to be honest i never use other tim for h70/h50 other than the stock(shin etsu).

and never had that issue about too much tim dripping on the socket area... maybe its depend on how u install it i saw people installing it like they where pushing the pump too much.. then yah in that case it will spread all over the bracket.. anyway i let the heat spread it for me to be honest


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *semajha* 
I would but there's just too much of it. The diameter of the paste is longer than the actual CPU.

Question for the people that use the stock TIM... aren't you worried about the paste dripping through the cervices? I mean if I apply the CPU cooler the way it is, the paste would also be on the cpu socket clamp.

I thought you had already installed the H70 and where re-applying TIM now.....just use the stock TIM. If you want to you can put on a pair of rubber gloves and take it all off and then split it in half and re-apply it. I did it for a friend it balls up quite easily and then I used a razor blade split it in half and then put it in the center of the H50(H70 would be the same) then install it as normal except I at least didn't quite tighten it completely until I started it up once to let the TIM "melt" into all the crevices then while it was running I completely tightened it down and his temps have been great.


----------



## semajha

No not yet... =( I'm too chicken right now to even try it. for the past 2 hours, ive been just reading and watching videos on people applying thermal paste... I would try your idea on reusing the paste but it just sounds too risky for a noob such as myself.

Anyway, I went out and bought Arctic Silver Ceramique. With the H70 cooler, is it best to apply tim on the heatsink or the cpu? And which method is best? I'm thinking of doing the dot method and letting the heatsink's pressure spread out the paste.


----------



## Wingzero

Quote:


Originally Posted by *semajha* 
No not yet... =( I'm too chicken right now to even try it. for the past 2 hours, ive been just reading and watching videos on people applying thermal paste... I would try your idea on reusing the paste but it just sounds too risky for a noob such as myself.

Anyway, I went out and bought Arctic Silver Ceramique. With the H70 cooler, is it best to apply tim on the heatsink or the cpu? And which method is best? I'm thinking of doing the dot method and letting the heatsink's pressure spread out the paste.

I was like this till a few months ago well not exactly but a little cautious.

My method is just a blob in the middle of the chip a small one.

What you've got to think about is no matter how bad you do it your not gonna get horrible temps they are only gonna be increased by 10C max!

So stop worrying mate!


----------



## semajha

Yeah, perhaps you're right... I'm all acting like my computer will blow up if I don't apply it right... lol.

Thanks, I'm gonna give this a shot tonight.


----------



## ilocos boy

my H50


----------



## Kyushu

Hi guys I have the h50 and will be doing a push/pull setup as intake with the rad, 2 fans and either a 25mm shroud or a 38mm shroud in the front 5.25 drive bay on my HAF X.

I already have a 3,000 rpm ultra kaze fan in the gpu duct running at 100% and it's loud.

What fans should I run in my push/pull setup considering that I already have a ultra kaze making me deaf..?

Factors I'm concerned with is:

1. Performance- I want to overclock to 3.8 or 4.0 on my 930 need to keep it as cool as possible.

2. Noise - I have that 1 ultra kaze that's actually inside the case and is still loud, I don't know if another noisy fan will make things worse or won't matter because all I hear is that 1 ultra kaze..

3. Price - looking to spend no more than $25 per fan, need 2.

So far I'm looking at :

Gentle typhoons ap-15s - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-092-_-Product lawrence did the math and the cfm is 57.68.

Ultra Kazes - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-054-_-Product Only considering these if the noise won't be worse than having the 1.

San Ace - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27970

I also heard a 38mm shroud is better for the h50 than a 25mm shroud is that true?
Is there any benefit in having a shroud on the pull fan as-well or no?


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ilocos boy* 
my H50

nice set up ading


----------



## Trademark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kyushu*


Hi guys I have the h50 and will be doing a push/pull setup as intake with the rad, 2 fans and either a 25mm shroud or a 38mm shroud in the front 5.25 drive bay on my HAF X.

I already have a 3,000 rpm ultra kaze fan in the gpu duct running at 100% and it's loud.

What fans should I run in my push/pull setup considering that I already have a ultra kaze making me deaf..?

Factors I'm concerned with is:

1. Performance- I want to overclock to 3.8 or 4.0 on my 930 need to keep it as cool as possible.

2. Noise - I have that 1 ultra kaze that's actually inside the case and is still loud, I don't know if another noisy fan will make things worse or won't matter because all I hear is that 1 ultra kaze..

3. Price - looking to spend no more than $25 per fan, need 2.

So far I'm looking at :

Gentle typhoons ap-15s - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-092-_-Product lawrence did the math and the cfm is 57.68.

Ultra Kazes - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-054-_-Product Only considering these if the noise won't be worse than having the 1.

San Ace - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27970

I also heard a 38mm shroud is better for the h50 than a 25mm shroud is that true?
Is there any benefit in having a shroud on the pull fan as-well or no?


Like i said before man go with scythe gentle typhoon ap15 and u wont be sorry. just got a ap15 few days ago for my new rig







.
anyway my temp improved from max load 72-74 celcius now 65+ 67-68. with that fan.


----------



## semajha

Jeez, AK-47 wasn't kidding about the installing the H70 on a CM-690 II advance case... It took a little effort trying to install radiator and fans in the rear....

When installing the radiator on the rear with a push/pull setup... I couldn't get the screw holes on the fan to align with the holes on the case... After 30min. I found out that the there was a little metal hook protruding out above the expansion slots. I had to hammer that down a little before I could mount my radiator/fan setup.

And AK-47 was right about the case cover not closing... I can't get mine to close all the way =/


----------



## TARRCO

Addd me to the club please









My H50 with push/pull in my NZXT Vulcan




































Please give feedback







and also on how I could improve it.. but I'm very limited space wise xD


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *semajha*


Jeez, AK-47 wasn't kidding about the installing the H70 on a CM-690 II advance case... It took a little effort trying to install radiator and fans in the rear....

When installing the radiator on the rear with a push/pull setup... I couldn't get the screw holes on the fan to align with the holes on the case... After 30min. I found out that the there was a little metal hook protruding out above the expansion slots. I had to hammer that down a little before I could mount my radiator/fan setup.

And AK-47 was right about the case cover not closing... I can't get mine to close all the way =/



Hmm...how exactly is it mounted? Can you tell what is preventing your case from closing? Hate to see you work hard installing a better cooler but at the same time lose a couple degrees on other components if the airflow in your case has gotten all wonky, hehe. Not a big deal really for most setups but I can think of a couple that could be a bit more worrisome. Pics would help a lot.

@TARRCO - Nice setup bud. Really wish they had, if anything, increased the length of the tubing on the H70 instead of shortening it ;/ I used to have much cleaner looking setup and access to a little bit cooler air like you're enjoying =)


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *semajha*


Jeez, AK-47 wasn't kidding about the installing the H70 on a CM-690 II advance case... It took a little effort trying to install radiator and fans in the rear....

When installing the radiator on the rear with a push/pull setup... I couldn't get the screw holes on the fan to align with the holes on the case... After 30min. I found out that the there was a little metal hook protruding out above the expansion slots. I had to hammer that down a little before I could mount my radiator/fan setup.

And AK-47 was right about the case cover not closing... I can't get mine to close all the way =/


Post a picture.... i wanna see how it looks, as well post a pic of what you had to hammer in

Is there any possibility to mounting the H70 on the front 5.25 area... using zipties to hold it there?


----------



## Drogue

On my Antec 600 case, I had to bend the upper flap of the door out slightly to get it to close all the way on a push/pull exhaust setup.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Drogue*


On my Antec 600 case, I had to bend the upper flap of the door out slightly to get it to close all the way on a push/pull exhaust setup.


so it was the width of the radiator in relation to the screw holes that was causing the problem?


----------



## Drogue

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimbrady*


so it was the width of the radiator in relation to the screw holes that was causing the problem?


Well, in my case it was the width of the edge of the fan.


----------



## slimbrady

ahhh, now I remember....I had the same issue at one point with the antec900 and I was only using 25mm's not what looks like 38mm's you're using....moving to the HAF 932 was like trading in Geo for a Suburban, lol. Now I'm having a harder time thinking of things I can fill the case with than how to make what I have fit. 
Hate the way the sides on antec's overlap so close to the rear screw holes. I think I ended up just mounting in the top or next one down from top bay as an intake. Maybe I can scavenge a pic...


----------



## semajha

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Drogue*


Well, in my case it was the width of the edge of the fan.











That's the exact same issue I'm having with the CM-690 II Advanced case.


----------



## semajha

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
Post a picture.... i wanna see how it looks, as well post a pic of what you had to hammer in

Is there any possibility to mounting the H70 on the front 5.25 area... using zipties to hold it there?

I'll try getting some pics of it today. And I don't think you'll be able to mount the H70 in the front area... the tubes are pretty short.


----------



## falfuris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *semajha* 
That's the exact same issue I'm having with the CM-690 II Advanced case.

if i were you... i would cut the back of your case ( the grid between your fans )

also .. if you have spare fans at home ( broken possibly ) break them to keep the outer plastic piece and glue it yo your fan like this. it adds a little extra pull/push effect ( i tapped mine with electric tape ...works wonder )

fan <--- windtunnel <--- radiator <--- windtunnel <---- fan
or
fan <--- windtunnel <--- radiator ---> windtunnel ----> fan

(<--) air current = push/pull configuration

according to certain "tests" push/pull is better ... my personal experience says it depends on the case air flow best configuration ( my moded nine hundred has 1 output of air ( the top huge fan ))


----------



## Drogue

Quote:


Originally Posted by *falfuris* 
if i were you... i would cut the back of your case ( the grid between your fans )

I was wondering if that would make much of a difference. I almost did it before I installed it. I guess I'll cut it out, can't hurt.


----------



## dockiks

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Drogue* 
Well, in my case it was the width of the edge of the fan.











I had a similar problem with my Thermaltake Element T case and my externally mounted pull GT-15 fan. So I dremelled part of the panel edge for clearance around the fan edge


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *falfuris* 
if i were you... i would cut the back of your case ( the grid between your fans )

also .. if you have spare fans at home ( broken possibly ) break them to keep the outer plastic piece and glue it yo your fan like this. it adds a little extra pull/push effect ( i tapped mine with electric tape ...works wonder )

fan <--- windtunnel <--- radiator <--- windtunnel <---- fan
or
fan <--- windtunnel <--- radiator ---> windtunnel ----> fan

(<--) air current = push/pull configuration

according to certain "tests" push/pull is better ... my personal experience says it depends on the case air flow best configuration ( my moded nine hundred has 1 output of air ( the top huge fan ))

The second one is very wrong you have the fans blowing opposite directions/working against each other.

You want your fans blowing in the same directions. Fixed below:

fan---> shroud ---> radiator ---> shroud ----> fan


----------



## dockiks

I've had this system running for about 3 weeks now.










If I had the 2 fans inside the case, the 230mm side panel fan I installed would hit the push fan. So I opted to bring out the pull fan.










Issues of relevance to this particular case (Thermaltake Element T):
Mounting the pull fan externally brought the fan edge near the side panel upper screw hole, resulting in inability to close the side panel properly









So I had to Dremel off part of the side panel like so









Another issue with this case: I discovered (after I had mounted the motherboard and everything else except for the radiator) that part of the case support bracket at the upper portion was coming in contact with the upper part of the radiator, preventing proper attachment. Since I didn't want to disassemble everything so that I could Dremel off the offending portion, I just used my aviation tin snips to trim it off. The angle of cutting was awkward and space was limited, so the result is quite ugly. But at least now I could fit the radiator to the back of the case.









Temps: Idle=34-36C
Load(LinX)=46-48C
Ambient=31-32C


----------



## adios_pelota

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dockiks* 
I've had this system running for about 3 weeks now.

Cool photos.

Which steel cutting dremel attachment do you use? I'm thinking about buying a dremel just to cut a hole in my CM690 (SECC material) case


----------



## semajha

Sorry for annoying questions but do you guys recommend applying the TIM on the h70 heatsink first or the CPUs?

Slimbrady, here are the pics showing what I'm talking about.

















Don't know if you can see it, but it's that tiny little metal tab above the expansion slot. I'm not sure exactly what thing is there for but it was easy getting it down.

And is it normal for the back i/o plate to convex like this? Not a big issue but a bit annoying.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *falfuris* 
if i were you... i would cut the back of your case ( the grid between your fans )

also .. if you have spare fans at home ( broken possibly ) break them to keep the outer plastic piece and glue it yo your fan like this. it adds a little extra pull/push effect ( i tapped mine with electric tape ...works wonder )

fan <--- windtunnel <--- radiator <--- windtunnel <---- fan
or
fan <--- windtunnel <--- radiator ---> windtunnel ----> fan

(<--) air current = push/pull configuration

according to certain "tests" push/pull is better ... my personal experience says it depends on the case air flow best configuration ( my moded nine hundred has 1 output of air ( the top huge fan ))

The first example IS push/pull as the term is referring to the air being pushed by
1st fan --> rad --> 2nd fan(this fan is pulling the air being pushed by the 1st).

You can do push/pull in either direction just don't mix them up like the second example where you would basically be blowing all air(cool or warm) away from your radiator while the 2 fans fight for what little air could be sucked in from cracks and crevices where they meet the radiator. Not going to be very impressed by that I'm sure. Similar scenario if they were both blowing inwards -> r <- as your heat dissipation would be limited to how much of the turbulent air pocket you'd be creating could escape out of the same cracks and crevices.....and that's all if you at least had matching fans...might get away with not frying your cpu if one fan was stronger but you'd beat the hell out of the weaker fan.

The shrouds(wind tunnels) are definitely a good idea though.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *semajha* 
I'll try getting some pics of it today. And I don't think you'll be able to mount the H70 in the front area... the tubes are pretty short.

Hey if I can reach in the HAF 932 well enough to be staring at 28c at 4.374 mhz while I'm writing this I can't imagine it'd be impossible. =)
If you're sticking on some quality fans in push pull they're going to be creating a pretty strong current to where you might not actually have to "reach" the front to still get air from it. Having a shroud or two can make the reach a little longer, heh. My H70 rad is maybe only an inch or so in from the edge of the 5.25" bay but it's pretty heavy(especially with 38mm 3k Ultra Kaze's on either end and shrouds.

I haven't really figured a proper way to mount it other than catching one of the screws around a zip tie and securing it to the side. That's how I had it for a while but really it's not even needed if the base is oriented to allow the rad to "sit" on the bottom of the 5.25" bays...I think everybody has a nice solid piece there.

Might not work if you have giant ram heatsinks with fans on top of them but i can still fit a ram cooler on my ram and have enough tubing to go around it and still reach the bay.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *adios_pelota* 
Cool photos.

Which steel cutting dremel attachment do you use? I'm thinking about buying a dremel just to cut a hole in my CM690 (SECC material) case









http://www.mnpctech.com/DremelDisc.html FTW!!








I just buy reinforced disks...don't bother with diamond...expensive and goes fast...I wouldn't use weak ones either though make sure they're reinforced metal...don't want little pieces of metal traveling your way at 35k rpm lol.


----------



## shingurai

I just built my computer and installed the H70. So far I like it alot. The fans are awesome, and keep the radiator nice and cool. On high load or whenever I set them up, they run up to 2138 RPMs they can get pretty loud, but it's not too bad. on normal they run pretty quietly.
I set the intake fan on the outside of the case, I'm sure it would have fit perfectly fine if I set it up on the inside, but I just wanted to make sure you could see the Corsair logo on the pump. I am Vain!


























I really like this cooler.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx* 
hey, I'll join. 





































everyone who joins this thread should also join the water cooling club in my sig. 

Glad to see I'm not the only one who mounted there H50 in an orientation that the logo isn't right-side-up lol


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *semajha* 
Sorry for annoying questions but do you guys recommend applying the TIM on the h70 heatsink first or the CPUs?

Don't know if you can see it, but it's that tiny little metal tab above the expansion slot. I'm not sure exactly what thing is there for but it was easy getting it down.

And is it normal for the back i/o plate to convex like this? Not a big issue but a bit annoying.


Unless you're doing the spread method(and even then really) you should only be applying the TIM to one surface. The CPU is more logical for line and dot methods since you can put it directly in the middle of the CPU which is the one place you really don't want to be missing any TIM. The edges are not quiiiite as important.
Also, yeah, I do sometimes worry when first applying TIM on a new chip or newly lapped surfaces about it...leaking down....i think you said a few pages back. Even if it's not electrically conductive(and really be careful it is lol) you can have TIM spread out from the middle and flow over the edges before it's done spreading and having it get on one of your cpu pins or in the sockets will probably stop you from posting on your next reboot. Cand be a pain in the ass to clean =)

As for the little tab, if I had to guess maybe your case can come with or be 'upgraded' with a screw-less style pci slot retention system. Those are typically secured by a small piece of metal you leverage behind a little tab...usually right about where that one is =)

Your backplate should 'normally' not be warped in any way and can take longer than you'd think to install with certain combinations of hardware. Was it warped before you installed it or did you just notice after screwing down the mobo that it got tweaked? I have seen it happen a lot when people paint their cases and either don't sand enough first or go crazy with the spraypaint layers and shrink the size of I/O cutout so the plate no longer fits right. Sometimes that can cause problem like shorting out the motherboard or other really wacky stuff sometimes but whenever I hear of it being a problem it's usually debilitating so I wouldn't worry about it if you were able to boot up fine and all your hardware seems to be working correctly.


----------



## semajha

Thanks slimbrady, some really helpful info man. (+1 rep)

The backplate became warped once I installed it through the back... Weird, but I made sure that it was in there correctly and it appears to be. So this was a problem before I installed my mobo.


----------



## slimbrady

Hey np man, thanks. If you had to force the mobo pretty hard against the plate to get the holes to line up with the stand offs then it was probably just a tiny bit off or maybe had a little too much padding etc but I don't think it's worth fixing if your usb ports etc all work fine and the mobo doesn't start acting up. Friggin hate having to pull out the motherboard after just getting done hooking up all your components. I would probably even sacrifice a USB(2.0) port or two just to avoid it, lol.


----------



## semajha

That's the thing, the mobo alignd up fine, didn't have to force anything in at all. It's just he backplate warped when I installed in on my case. Either the case made the I/O cut out too small or the mobo backplate was made a little to big that it flexed when I installed it. It's a good thing I haven't installed any components yet lol I'm so ocd when it comes to little things like this.


----------



## WhiteDog

Hi guys









Finished rebuilding my pc a few days ago, with a Corsair H70. I took a few pics for you to watch. Enjoy

ohhh and another 5870 sneaked in, while I wasn't watching


----------



## afunyun

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WhiteDog* 
Hi guys









Finished rebuilding my pc a few days ago, with a Corsair H70. I took a few pics for you to watch. Enjoy

ohhh and another 5870 sneaked in, while I wasn't watching









snippity snap

Beautiful


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WhiteDog* 
Hi guys









Finished rebuilding my pc a few days ago, with a Corsair H70. I took a few pics for you to watch. Enjoy

ohhh and another 5870 sneaked in, while I wasn't watching










Other than for looks is there a reason you have a grill on the fan inside of the case? Just restricting airflow and not worth it for looks at least I would never have it on there myself.


----------



## Siegfried262

Hey guys

Bought an H50 from a forum member and I noticed on the AMD backplate the stick adhesive bits have come off, is this a problem (Would I Have to go and get some self-adhesive foam tape?) or can I proceed as normal?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Siegfried262* 
Hey guys

Bought an H50 from a forum member and I noticed on the AMD backplate the stick adhesive bits have come off, is this a problem (Would I Have to go and get some self-adhesive foam tape?) or can I proceed as normal?

No need to get more tape either hold it up there if you have to or use some regular tape to hold it in place while you screw the bracket in from the other side.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Siegfried262* 
Hey guys

Bought an H50 from a forum member and I noticed on the AMD backplate the stick adhesive bits have come off, is this a problem (Would I Have to go and get some self-adhesive foam tape?) or can I proceed as normal?

The adhesive is just there to help it stick while you work the other side of the mounting plate. Perfectly ok to proceed it just won't stay stuck on the board when mounting the backplate.


----------



## Siegfried262

Sweet, thanks for the clarification guys!

I'll let you guys know how my temps sit later tonight after I get everything reassembled. I'll only have a single Gentle Typhoon 1450 model pushing air through the radiator (exhausting out the rear in the process) until the second one arrives and I'll have a push/pull config.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Siegfried262* 
Sweet, thanks for the clarification guys!

I'll let you guys know how my temps sit later tonight after I get everything reassembled. I'll only have a single Gentle Typhoon 1450 model pushing air through the radiator (exhausting out the rear in the process) until the second one arrives and I'll have a push/pull config.

Should still allow for some nice temps. Keep us posted.


----------



## Garanthor

Well after much research there still seems to be controversy regarding lapping your CPU and heatsink. So tomorrow I'm gathering up all the supplies and after lapping both and keeping everything else the same I'm going to see what my new temps are like. More to follow.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
Well after much research there still seems to be controversy regarding lapping your CPU and heatsink. So tomorrow I'm gathering up all the supplies and after lapping both and keeping everything else the same I'm going to see what my new temps are like. More to follow.









I have only lapped one CPU, not even the heatsink, it dropped about 6Âºc off the load temps. If you do a good job and lap both, CPU & Heatsink you'll see about double what I saw.


----------



## semajha

Where should I plug the 3 pin fan connector too? I have both the radiator fans on a splitter and I'd like to plug it to the CPU FAN connection but the problem is that the CPU FAN connection is a 4 Pin connector and the fans are using a 3 pin.


----------



## Chicken Patty

The best way to plug the pump to me is get a 3pin to 4 pin molex adapter and connect it to your PSU. If you can't do that connect it to your CPU Fan Header on your motherboard and make sure all automatic fan control is disabled, set fan speed in BIOS manually to the max so the pump runs at max RPM at all times. The fan you can plug the same way or to any other header on your board.


----------



## semajha

I'll go to my local computer store tommorrow to pick up an adapter for the pump connection then.

But just for the 2 fans, there shouldn't be a problem connecting a 3 pin connector to a 4 pin header? I mean i've tried connecting it and it fits fine but just worried if it's a bad idea.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *semajha* 
I'll go to my local computer store tommorrow to pick up an adapter for the pump connection then.

But just for the 2 fans, there shouldn't be a problem connecting a 3 pin connector to a 4 pin header? I mean i've tried connecting it and it fits fine but just worried if it's a bad idea.

ah, forgot to answer that in my last post. Not an issue, if you notice the four pin connector has a tab that is the width of the three pins, just make sure you use those 3 pins. See below:


----------



## leichtwork

I pluged my pump into one of the header fans. Those stay at a constant and don't change. My tends to stay around the 1350 rpm area, this is good because that is what the pump needs. For your 3 pin to 4 pin conection, you can plug it into a fan controller and go into the bios and turn the cpu fan off so that you don't get an error when you turn your computer on. That is how I have mine set, on a push pull set up. My idle temps are not the greatest but my house stays around 80 degress because its expensive to keep a 7000 square foot house cool on really hot days, but it still stays really cool under load.

When I have it plugged into the fan controller I have it on auto during normal use, when I play a game or put it under load I then put it in Manual mode and have everything cranked up.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *leichtwork* 
I pluged my pump into one of the header fans. Those stay at a constant and don't change. My tends to stay around the 1350 rpm area, this is good because that is what the pump needs. For your 3 pin to 4 pin conection, you can plug it into a fan controller and go into the bios and turn the cpu fan off so that you don't get an error when you turn your computer on. That is how I have mine set, on a push pull set up. My idle temps are not the greatest but my house stays around 80 degress because its expensive to keep a 7000 square foot house cool on really hot days, but it still stays really cool under load.

When I have it plugged into the fan controller I have it on auto during normal use, when I play a game or put it under load I then put it in Manual mode and have everything cranked up.

The fan headers on the board don't necessarily stay at full speed, it all depends how it's setup. If he plugs the pump into the CPU fan header he won't get a error since it'll detect something connected to it.


----------



## Siegfried262

Hey guys, so I got everything installed and running without too much trouble, however I have hit an odd snag in figuring out my temperatures.

In the bios my temps at idle are the low 30's but on the desktop, whether I'm using Hardware Monitor, Core Temp, or OCCT it reports the temperature on all cores as 0 degrees celsius, which I know can't be right.

Any idea why this might be?


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Siegfried262* 
Hey guys, so I got everything installed and running without too much trouble, however I have hit an odd snag in figuring out my temperatures.

In the bios my temps at idle are the low 30's but on the desktop, whether I'm using Hardware Monitor, Core Temp, or OCCT it reports the temperature on all cores as 0 degrees celsius, which I know can't be right.

Any idea why this might be?

sensors are on crack then...

Hopefully someone on this thread has your same mobo... and he will probably help out

random question... are you using the latest bios? maybe try updating it


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Siegfried262* 
Hey guys, so I got everything installed and running without too much trouble, however I have hit an odd snag in figuring out my temperatures.

In the bios my temps at idle are the low 30's but on the desktop, whether I'm using Hardware Monitor, Core Temp, or OCCT it reports the temperature on all cores as 0 degrees celsius, which I know can't be right.

Any idea why this might be?

I have the same problem with my MSI motherboard. The only program that shows temps for my CPU is the one that came on the MB disk/downloaded from MSI. I have been told that a bios update would possibly fix the problem but since the MSI Overdrive program works fine I am not going to bother updating bios and possibly mess something up.


----------



## Draygonn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *semajha*


Where should I plug the 3 pin fan connector too?


I have the same board as you. The only adjustable fan headers on that MB are CPU_FAN and SYS FAN2. The others always run at max speed. I plugged the pump into SYS FAN1 and it runs constant max, 1390 or so. I plugged the fans into CPU_FAN and the bios adjusts their speed. The 4 pin is for PWM fans but it can run voltage too (3 pin) so go ahead and plug it in. You can use EasyTune6 to map your own fan speeds,or just leave it at auto.


----------



## slimbrady

hey semajha bro what fans are you using? If they're big ol' 38mm's you might not want to run them both off a single mobo header....could potentially cause damage right guys? Not expert on that but I know from a few of the fans I've looked with disclaimers about plugging even one of them into a mobo header...mainly deltas and pabst etc.

Also, I'm curious about this myself, does running more than one fan from a standard splitter(not talking about fan controllers) that is just 2 female and one male 3 pin cable reduce the voltage to each one? Or is the splitter able to draw more voltage from the header to compensate?

Figured it was about my cue again to come in and freak you out =D


----------



## Draygonn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimbrady*


hey semajha bro what fans are you using? If they're big ol' 38mm's you might not want to run them both off a single mobo header....could potentially cause damage right guys? Not expert on that but I know from a few of the fans I've looked with disclaimers about plugging even one of them into a mobo header...mainly deltas and pabst etc.

Also, I'm curious about this myself, does running more than one fan from a standard splitter(not talking about fan controllers) that is just 2 female and one male 3 pin cable reduce the voltage to each one? Or is the splitter able to draw more voltage from the header to compensate?

Figured it was about my cue again to come in and freak you out =D


I'm interested in an experts opinion on any possible problems. I'm certainly not an expert but in my experience with semajha's board I found when connecting a 38mm Panaflo to the headers that always run 100% max the board shuts them off after a fraction of a second. However, when connected to the controlled headers they work fine. 2 Panaflo's on the H70 thru the CPU_FAN header and 3 Panaflo's thru the SYS FAN2 header (which is tied to the northbridge temp) work just fine. I have only 1 giving RPM readings (like the H70 y splitter) but all 3 get the correct amount of 'juice'. Now if only I could find out how to map the SYS FAN2 header fan speeds manually...


----------



## Siegfried262

Hmm, updating the Bios didn't do any good but I can monitor temps with Gigabyte's overclocking program Easy Tune 6.

Unlocked the 4th core on my Phenom II X3 720 with no issues, been fiddling with overclocking. Currently Prime 95 testing with the multiplier bumped up to 18x and voltage up to 1.520. Frequency at 4 cores rated at 3.6ghz.

Ambient temp: 20-21 degrees
Idle so far: 26 degrees celsius 
Load so far: Hasn't gone past 52 degrees so far.

How's that for a slice of fired gold? If it passes the overnight stress test I'll see if I can get the same thing after turning the voltage down a bit.

Update! Temps have gone up to but haven't pushed past the 54-55 mark. Tried dialing the voltage back to 1.475, no dice though, comp restarted during Prime 95. Giving 1.5 a shot and so far so good. Load temps are at 45-46 mark.


----------



## WhiteDog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Other than for looks is there a reason you have a grill on the fan inside of the case? Just restricting airflow and not worth it for looks at least I would never have it on there myself.


3c cooler now without the grill









Wonder why I didn't realize that...


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WhiteDog*


3c cooler now without the grill









Wonder why I didn't realize that...


Wow wouldn't think it would make more than a 1C at most but 3 is amazing. If you want to add some color I would just tape off the whole inside of the fan(blades inner sides etc.) and then paint it any color you want since you wouldn't restrict flow by painting the end of the fan and the outside of it you could still add some color.


----------



## jprovido

Can I use a silverstone FM121 fan (120CFM) push pull with a coolermaster 90CFM fan?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jprovido*


Can I use a silverstone FM121 fan (120CFM) push pull with a coolermaster 90CFM fan?


You can use anything you want. Will it cool as well as two matching fans? No probably not. If you try it make the Silverstone the push fan.


----------



## AK-47

getting about 30 degrees on idle
34 with light use
40 under load
And that's before the UK 3K and 50 mm(2x25) shroud addition
added three 140 mm fans today and wow airflow makes a huge difference
now looking for some cheap fans to gut and make shrouds out of


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shingurai* 
I just built my computer and installed the H70. So far I like it alot. The fans are awesome, and keep the radiator nice and cool. On high load or whenever I set them up, they run up to 2138 RPMs they can get pretty loud, but it's not too bad. on normal they run pretty quietly.
I set the intake fan on the outside of the case, I'm sure it would have fit perfectly fine if I set it up on the inside, but I just wanted to make sure you could see the Corsair logo on the pump. I am Vain!

I really like this cooler.

nice build man


----------



## Ikthus

What do you guys think of my temps? Back down to 4.0 or keep my settings? My voltages are pretty low (ambient is 23-25C) so I'm kind of disappointed with the temps I'm getting...might go back to air cooling


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ikthus* 
What do you guys think of my temps? Back down to 4.0 or keep my settings? My voltages are pretty low (ambient is 23-25C) so I'm kind of disappointed with the temps I'm getting...might go back to air cooling









we have the same clock speed @4.2 at 1.244v though..
almost the same idle temp except my max load around 67-69 sometimes 71 celcius max!
if its hot in my room temp...

i might try air cooling one of this day too.. just to see if i get better temp..


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ikthus* 
What do you guys think of my temps? Back down to 4.0 or keep my settings? My voltages are pretty low (ambient is 23-25C) so I'm kind of disappointed with the temps I'm getting...might go back to air cooling









You sure your fans are running at max speed?
Those temps seem pretty high.


----------



## Ikthus

Man I am jealous of your load temps Trademark!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Freaxy* 
You sure your fans are running at max speed?
Those temps seem pretty high.

I think they are...it's not plugged in the mobo so it should be running at max. I have them plugged in to a single 3-pin connector using the Y splitter that came with the H70. That's fine right?


----------



## semajha

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
hey semajha bro what fans are you using? If they're big ol' 38mm's you might not want to run them both off a single mobo header....could potentially cause damage right guys? Not expert on that but I know from a few of the fans I've looked with disclaimers about plugging even one of them into a mobo header...mainly deltas and pabst etc.

I'm using the stock 2 fans that came with the H70, I believe they're both 120mm fans. Whew, and it's a good thing I caught this before turning anything on.

Quote:

Also, I'm curious about this myself, does running more than one fan from a standard splitter(not talking about fan controllers) that is just 2 female and one male 3 pin cable reduce the voltage to each one? Or is the splitter able to draw more voltage from the header to compensate?
I'd like to know this as well.

Quote:

Figured it was about my cue again to come in and freak you out =D


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ikthus* 
Man I am jealous of your load temps Trademark!

I think they are...it's not plugged in the mobo so it should be running at max. I have them plugged in to a single 3-pin connector using the Y splitter that came with the H70. That's fine right?

maybe the chip too man?
i think i have a good chip... anyway i run a 4.0Ghz earlier and got a higher temp







and error at 19 run 1 more and i recieved error.. i might reseat my h70 and use shin etsu tim.. after going back to stock speed im getting 35-38 idle temp not good







going to try to go back to 4.2 with higher clock and see if i get error again before i reseat... wish me luck


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Siegfried262* 
Hey guys, so I got everything installed and running without too much trouble, however I have hit an odd snag in figuring out my temperatures.

In the bios my temps at idle are the low 30's but on the desktop, whether I'm using Hardware Monitor, Core Temp, or OCCT it reports the temperature on all cores as 0 degrees celsius, which I know can't be right.

Any idea why this might be?

I believe thats normal once you unlock cores on a phenom.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
Well after much research there still seems to be controversy regarding lapping your CPU and heatsink. So tomorrow I'm gathering up all the supplies and after lapping both and keeping everything else the same I'm going to see what my new temps are like. More to follow.









Well I'm back. I lapped both the CPU and H50 using glass method with 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit. Got it all to a nice shine. Re-applied MX-3 TIM, put everything back together, flashed it up, ran HWMonitor and Prime 95 blended and the end result of all this work?????................ 2 degree drop. Yup 2 whole degrees. Idle is now 29C at 19C ambient, max under prime 95 was 51C. I was expecting more given all the wild claims on the internet regarding lapping.

My conclusion? I wouldn't recommend the effort and expense. Don't get me wrong. I'm overall happy with my results for a 4.020 overclock at 1.5 volts. I'm just thinking that I've pretty much done all I can with this H50 so I'll stop playing around with it now.


----------



## dockiks

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
Well I'm back. I lapped both the CPU and H50 using glass method with 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit. Got it all to a nice shine. Re-applied MX-3 TIM, put everything back together, flashed it up, ran HWMonitor and Prime 95 blended and the end result of all this work?????................ 2 degree drop. Yup 2 whole degrees. Idle is now 29C at 19C ambient, max under prime 95 was 51C. I was expecting more given all the wild claims on the internet regarding lapping.

My conclusion? I wouldn't recommend the effort and expense. Don't get me wrong. I'm overall happy with my results for a 4.020 overclock at 1.5 volts. I'm just thinking that I've pretty much done all I can with this H50 so I'll stop playing around with it now.










It probably depends on how concave your CPU's IHS is. If it's really flat, you won't see much gain in lapping. My 1090T was really flat so I never even considered lapping it. The same goes for the coarseness of the heatsink's base finish.


----------



## dockiks

Quote:


Originally Posted by *adios_pelota* 
Cool photos.

Which steel cutting dremel attachment do you use? I'm thinking about buying a dremel just to cut a hole in my CM690 (SECC material) case









http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Attachme...l.aspx?pid=420

I used these heavy duty cutting wheels which are also strong enough for cutting bolts or shortening those 3 inch 6/32 screws if you need to


----------



## Draygonn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WhiteDog* 
3c cooler now without the grill









Wonder why I didn't realize that...

Then shouldn't we all be cutting out our case grills? Mine has more disruption than Whitedog's intake. I'll put that on the list.


----------



## adios_pelota

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dockiks* 
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Attachme...l.aspx?pid=420

I used these heavy duty cutting wheels which are also strong enough for cutting bolts or shortening those 3 inch 6/32 screws if you need to

Sweet, thanks for the details + link.


----------



## Siegfried262

Hmm, I think I may need to remount the pump.

I've noticed though that when I start Prime 95 my temps don't steadily climb but they jump up to say the high 40's from the idle low 20's and then start the climb up higher.

Should I try removing the pump, using Arcticlean to remove the paste, and then reapply more properly now that I have the installation down better?


----------



## semajha

This is a stupid question, and has nothing to do with this thread topic...But on my PSU(corsair 850hx) there's a power sata cable. On the power sata cable there are 5 heads(4 L heads which seem to be for the harddrive and 1 for the mobo.) On my PC build, I'm using 4 hard drives... Am I suppose to or CAN I use that one power cable for this configuration? Meaning, I'd be daisy chaining the power cables to each drive? Yes, I've looked up installation guides for harddrives but not one mentions on how to install for multiple harddrives. Would I need a separate power cable for each?

Sorry for the unrelated topic, I felt that a whole separate thread wasn't needed for such a simple stupid question. And thanks in advance for bearing with...


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *semajha*


This is a stupid question, and has nothing to do with this thread topic...But on my PSU(corsair 850hx) there's a power sata cable. On the power sata cable there are 5 heads(4 L heads which seem to be for the harddrive and 1 for the mobo.) On my PC build, I'm using 4 hard drives... Am I suppose to or CAN I use that one power cable for this configuration? Meaning, I'd be daisy chaining the power cables to each drive? Yes, I've looked up installation guides for harddrives but not one mentions on how to install for multiple harddrives. Would I need a separate power cable for each?

Sorry for the unrelated topic, I felt that a whole separate thread wasn't needed for such a simple stupid question. And thanks in advance for bearing with...


 You can use one for all your drives. Hard drives don't use as much power as you might think


----------



## semajha

awesome, thanks man.


----------



## Munkypoo7

Quickish question.

The stock Corsair H70 fans, are they loud with the inline resistors that come with the H70?

By loud I mean.... semi audible, I enjoy having an inaudible system at about 3 feet away from where I sit, granted this isn't the case while gaming due to my 470, but still, while I web browse, listen to music etc I like keeping toe noise out of the picture.

I know that my current TRUE Black w/ Push Pull yields good results, but I'm looking for something with a smaller footprint, and the H70 fits this perfectly.

If the fans aren't that quiet, I can always use my current fans which are wonderful


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Munkypoo7*


Quickish question.

The stock Corsair H70 fans, are they loud with the inline resistors that come with the H70?

By loud I mean.... semi audible, I enjoy having an inaudible system at about 3 feet away from where I sit, granted this isn't the case while gaming due to my 470, but still, while I web browse, listen to music etc I like keeping toe noise out of the picture.

I know that my current TRUE Black w/ Push Pull yields good results, but I'm looking for something with a smaller footprint, and the H70 fits this perfectly.

If the fans aren't that quiet, I can always use my current fans which are wonderful










I don't own a H70, but I did have a H50 and that fan at full blast was not that bad.


----------



## crash01

What are dimensions of radiator? thx


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crash01*


What are dimensions of radiator? thx


Which radiator, the H50 or the H70?

H50 - 150 x 120 x 22 mm
H70 - 150 x 120 x 50 mm


----------



## crash01

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Which radiator, the H50 or the H70?

H50 - 150 x 120 x 22 mm
H70 - 150 x 120 x 50 mm


H70!
Thx!


----------



## crash01

The wb that go on cpu, have a sense, or i can put how I want?
I'm afraid that the two pipes go against the DHX, see image








 
Thx!


----------



## Garanthor

crash01 said:


> The wb that go on cpu, have a sense, or i can put how I want?
> I'm afraid that the two pipes go against the DHX, see image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll have no problem putting the H70 heatsink on that CPU. In fact you'll be able to see a lot that is covered up right now with that air heat sink and improve your air circulation to your memory.


----------



## semajha

w00t! Booted up my pc for the first time!







So far everything seems good and all 6 ram modules are detected. It's no wonder there are so many PC builder enthusiast. The feeling of putting together your pc and firing it up for the first time is exhilarating! I feel like an 6 year old on christmas morning lol.

My CPU temp is 32 C and my MCH 47 C... Seems alright but it does seem a bit high for factory clocked settings.

Pump is running at 1380 RPMs and Push/Pull Stock fans are running at a little over 2000 rpms. TIM was Arctic Silver Ceramique.


----------



## mr-Charles

.. if ya want to seat in the Ceramique quicker, give your setup a few run's of Prime95 to heat-up and evenly spread
the TIM for upon your CPU......pretty much you'd be like " cooking-IN " the TIM . . . .

{.... my 2







worth of mentioning, from experience of & using







...}

mr-Charles . . . .









.


----------



## chatch15117

Will an H50 handle a 470? I need to find a way to mount it on there


----------



## Kyushu

What is the static pressure of the gentle typhoon ap-15s?


----------



## SheepMoose

I'm about to build my PC soon and am looking into getting some Scythe Gentle Typhoons for the H70 I'll be installing. Problem is I can't find any of the 1850rpm models in stock at any of the stores I've looked at.

Would the 1150rpm models work just as well or what?


----------



## DMac84

Will the H70 handle a 980X @ 4GHz?

I have the stuff ready to build, I own a H70 and a Megahalems and dont know which one to use. I would very much like to build my setup once and not have to try one before the other.

H70 good enough? I have better 120's than whatever comes stock on the H70 too.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ikthus* 
Man I am jealous of your load temps Trademark!

I think they are...it's not plugged in the mobo so it should be running at max. I have them plugged in to a single 3-pin connector using the Y splitter that came with the H70. That's fine right?

Actually, you're running them at decreased voltages and rpm's if you're using the splitter that came with H70 because that's what the splitter is designed to do. I wouldn't consider your temps final at all until you have the fans going 100%.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Siegfried262* 
Hmm, I think I may need to remount the pump.

I've noticed though that when I start Prime 95 my temps don't steadily climb but they jump up to say the high 40's from the idle low 20's and then start the climb up higher.

Should I try removing the pump, using Arcticlean to remove the paste, and then reapply more properly now that I have the installation down better?

Whatever you're using to monitor your temps is probably just lagging behind because you're under full load. I don't think your actual temps can spike like that and still give you reasonable load temps. That's why I like Asus's ROG Connect so much, real time monitoring under load yet no worry about lagging readings.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *semajha* 
w00t! Booted up my pc for the first time!







So far everything seems good and all 6 ram modules are detected. It's no wonder there are so many PC builder enthusiast. The feeling of putting together your pc and firing it up for the first time is exhilarating! I feel like an 6 year old on christmas morning lol.

My CPU temp is 32 C and my MCH 47 C... Seems alright but it does seem a bit high for factory clocked settings.

Pump is running at 1380 RPMs and Push/Pull Stock fans are running at a little over 2000 rpms. TIM was Arctic Silver Ceramique.

Nice job on your first pc bud!! +rep

give that TIM some time to get burned in/spread out. 32c is pretty average for me when I do a fresh mount and check temp right away. Depending on the TIM(never used yours) you should see some improvement once it cures.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kyushu* 
What is the static pressure of the gentle typhoon ap-15s?

I don't remember where I finally found that but I think it was above 2.0 and below 2.5mmh20.


----------



## KamuiRSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
I don't remember where I finally found that but I think it was above 2.0 and below 2.5mmh20.

Wow...that's it???

Even the Yate Loon fans have better static pressure. The stock fan that comes on the Xiggy Dark Knight HSF comes with 4.xxmmh20 static pressure.


----------



## slimbrady

Sorry for the trolling here guys but I only have my laptop to mess with ATM since my PSU failed so I'm bored as hell, lol.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SheepMoose* 
I'm about to build my PC soon and am looking into getting some Scythe Gentle Typhoons for the H70 I'll be installing. Problem is I can't find any of the 1850rpm models in stock at any of the stores I've looked at.

Would the 1150rpm models work just as well or what?

They will not work "just as well." I couldn't tell you exactly how much of an effect it's going to have but it would be similar to getting the 1850's and running them on low. If you're not going to push your OC high then they may still be strong enough for you though.


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DMac84* 
Will the H70 handle a 980X @ 4GHz?

I have the stuff ready to build, I own a H70 and a Megahalems and dont know which one to use. I would very much like to build my setup once and not have to try one before the other.

H70 good enough? I have better 120's than whatever comes stock on the H70 too.

It will handle the 980X @ 4 GHz with ease. See my results here of stock fans v GT's on my 980X.
http://www.overclock.net/10471630-post12900.html


----------



## DMac84

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pedrosa* 
It will handle the 980X @ 4 GHz with ease. See my results here of stock fans v GT's on my 980X.
http://www.overclock.net/10471630-post12900.html

Cool! Thanks.

What is your Uncore @?


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KamuiRSX* 
Wow...that's it???

Even the Yate Loon fans have better static pressure. The stock fan that comes on the Xiggy Dark Knight HSF comes with 4.xxmmh20 static pressure.

Yeah, like I said I don't remember exactly what it was but I remember it did not impress me at all....that's why I never jumped on the GT wagon. For their DB they are still a great compromise though if you're into quiet pc's. They are only 1850 RPM so yo can't expect TOO much pressure at that speed. Those fans from the Xiggy run 2200 RPM but still, dang, pretty nice specs....might just have to buy it, take the fans off and put it in my closet...lol j/k. I'll stick with my 38mm's.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ikthus* 
Man I am jealous of your load temps Trademark!

I think they are...it's not plugged in the mobo so it should be running at max. I have them plugged in to a single 3-pin connector using the Y splitter that came with the H70. That's fine right?

my current idle temp on my 4.0 Setup..


----------



## Trademark

reseated my h70 as usual had to use Shin Etsu TIM.
and heres the typical max load did a quick ITB.


----------



## [Adz]

Hey,

I've got a H70 to use in my Antec 900, but I was wondering, how can I mount it in the top drive bay area? I'm not using any of the stock drive bays so it's all empty, which means that the H70 is smaller than the space available. 
Any ideas on how to safely mount it?


----------



## Zarchon

I just installed an H70 into my computer replacing the Cooler Master Hyper N520 CPU Cooler. My idle temps pretty much stayed the same, approximately 42c. My load temps dropped from 80c to 69c. My ambient temps have been running around 31c. It's a bear living in the desert.

The first pic of my system before I started.
Pic 2 is the H70
Pic 3 is with the N520 removed. Is the TIM pattern on the bottom of the N520 OK?
Pic 4 is complete.

All I have to do now is clean up the wiring.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zarchon*


I just installed an H70 into my computer replacing the Cooler Master Hyper N520 CPU Cooler. My idle temps pretty much stayed the same, approximately 42c. My load temps dropped from 80c to 69c. My ambient temps have been running around 31c. It's a bear living in the desert.

The first pic of my system before I started.
Pic 2 is the H70
Pic 3 is with the N520 removed. Is the TIM pattern on the bottom of the N520 OK?
Pic 4 is complete.

All I have to do now is clean up the wiring.


nicely done man


----------



## Munkypoo7

Two final questions for you H50/H70 gurus out there...

One: Would exhaust instead of the recommended intake be extremely detrimental to the unit's life / performance? (I highly doubt it, but yeah gotta ask)

Two: Anyone have an H70 in an FT01 case? I'm just pondering if it's fully compatible, last thing I need is to order one and have some absurd incompatibility.

Thanks guys, can't wait to order an H70


----------



## xstasy

Very happy with the load temps! 70c max at full load 4.0Ghz 1.3v (Prime95 1hr)


----------



## Zarchon

Xstasy, nice set up. What fans are you running on that rad?


----------



## xstasy

I have the Scythe GT AP-15 Hooked up on the push and one Xigmatek 1500rpm fan on the pull.

Only managed to get one AP-15 though. Will be getting another one tomorrow.

Previously, i had two of those 1500rpm Xigmatek fans, they were idling @ 44 but after i hooked on the AP-15 on the push , I get more stable idle and loads temps.


----------



## Siegfried262

I ended up reseating the pump with Gelid GC-Extreme, got a more even spread of the paste.

But my Phenom II X3 with a core unlocked and overclocked to 3.2ghz is running at a max of 43 degrees from OCCT's stress test. And that's an H-50 with one AP-14 on it.

I could probably push it further but I'm happy where it is right now for the time being. I mean, paying 80 bucks for a processor that's at the equivalent of a 150 dollar processor? Pretty spiffy.


----------



## Ikthus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimbrady*


Actually, you're running them at decreased voltages and rpm's if you're using the splitter that came with H70 because that's what the splitter is designed to do. I wouldn't consider your temps final at all until you have the fans going 100%.


Seriously? I'm going to take out the splitter tonight and get some molex adapters. I had some suspicion that the fans weren't running fullspeed, when I put my hand over the pull fan I can barely feel it.

Thanks, +Rep!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trademark*


my current idle temp on my 4.0 Setup..


Nice temps, I get around 40-45C idle temps at 4.0. Load temps though are another story...usually peaks at 74-76C. Hopefully I'll see some improvement once I fix my fan problem.


----------



## Trademark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ikthus* 
Seriously? I'm going to take out the splitter tonight and get some molex adapters. I had some suspicion that the fans weren't running fullspeed, when I put my hand over the pull fan I can barely feel it.

Thanks, +Rep!

Nice temps, I get around 40-45C idle temps at 4.0. Load temps though are another story...usually peaks at 74-76C. Hopefully I'll see some improvement once I fix my fan problem.

have u try the gtx ap15 they are really great man im sure u will end have having the same temp idle / max load with me if u do we have the same chip


----------



## Draygonn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
Actually, you're running them at decreased voltages and rpm's if you're using the splitter that came with H70 because that's what the splitter is designed to do.

Incorrect, that is what the two resistors are designed to do. You can add them inline with the splitter to reduce fan speed. The splitter has only one yellow wire so only one fan's RPM is checked. As long as you use the same type fans for push and pull you get the correct RPMs. To get 100% fan speed adjust your fan speed software or plug them into an uncontrolled header or directly to the psu.


----------



## Liighthead

probaly wont.. but would a h50 (( or h70 )) be our to have a GTX 460 full cover block? jus the single rad.. i wont be useing the cpu block. just the pump in it..


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Liighthead* 
probaly wont.. but would a h50 (( or h70 )) be our to have a GTX 460 full cover block? jus the single rad.. i wont be useing the cpu block. just the pump in it..

It's been done before, not sure with which card, but it's been done. The one I saw actually used the same block, just somehow adapted to go on the GPU. It's in this thread I believe.


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
It's been done before, not sure with which card, but it's been done. The one I saw actually used the same block, just somehow adapted to go on the GPU. It's in this thread I believe.

didnt think of that, wonder how hard that would be...
but the gpu block (( this or this ))

would cool the chips as well.. but would the pump be powerful enough to push water through both blocks? (( guessing 1 x 120mm rad + cpu + gpu get quite hot ))

- gotta find some mods on the h50 lol







see what people have done, see a few rez mods.. and a 240 rad mod, but yeah







-


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ikthus* 
Seriously? I'm going to take out the splitter tonight and get some molex adapters. I had some suspicion that the fans weren't running fullspeed, when I put my hand over the pull fan I can barely feel it.

Thanks, +Rep!

Nice temps, I get around 40-45C idle temps at 4.0. Load temps though are another story...usually peaks at 74-76C. Hopefully I'll see some improvement once I fix my fan problem.


The spliter or "Y" cable does not reduce the voltage only the two extenders do that.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Draygonn* 
Incorrect, that is what the two resistors are designed to do. You can add them inline with the splitter to reduce fan speed. The splitter has only one yellow wire so only one fan's RPM is checked. As long as you use the same type fans for push and pull you get the correct RPMs. To get 100% fan speed adjust your fan speed software or plug them into an uncontrolled header or directly to the psu.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mark_K* 
The spliter or "Y" cable does not reduce the voltage only the two extenders do that.









You two are both correct. Been a long time since I unpacked this thing and forgot there were 2 separated cables as well as the 2 prong splitter.
+rep for keep this thread's integrity up after so many pages, it seems I am starting to slip^^


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimbrady*









You two are both correct. Been a long time since I unpacked this thing and forgot there were 2 separated cables as well as the 2 prong splitter.
+rep for keep this thread's integrity up after so many pages, it seems I am starting to slip^^


+1 Rep for you for being so honest and a nice guy.


----------



## xstasy

Just added another GT AP15 on the H70


----------



## DMac84

Ok, just put my 980X Setup together with the H70.

4.2GHz / 3.6Ghz Uncore
1.375VCore / 1.375 VTT (Dunno if thats too high or not, but anything lower will BSOD)

100 passes in LinX. Max Temp 82C. Is that too hot?

Im comfortable with it. But what are your thoughts.

Looking for 24/7 Build here. Thx

Edit: 5 Cores max at 76C and 1 core maxes at 82C. Pics after work.


----------



## Mark_K

I am now in the club!

- H70 2 Scythe GT AP-15s pulling air from inside the case and out the back
- 2 Scythe GT AP-14s in front of case
- Top of case 2 Noctua NF-P14 Flx fans

The shroud is TFC Xtender 120mm Radiator Shroud - Dual Blue LED (TFC-XTENDER-BL) PeformancePCs.com

You can see that I but some soft foam around the outside fan and the inside fan against the radiator. The shroud came with a rubber gasket to go between the fan and the shroud.


----------



## xstasy

Mark, I believe your shroud should be between the Radiator and the Push fan.
It would be completely useless to have your shroud before the push fan.

And since you only have 1 HDD, why not get a 5.25" HDD rack and leave it there and remove the HDD rack for better airflow?


----------



## Mark_K

OMG! your right.....lol..
I need to make that change ASAP!

Oh man thanks.

1 REP+ for you.


----------



## thisispatrick

Hey guys. Its been roughly a year now since I've had my H50. Now I near a buzz coming from my pump. Its irritating how it used to run basically silent, and now this buzzing out of nowhere


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thisispatrick* 
Hey guys. Its been roughly a year now since I've had my H50. Now I near a buzz coming from my pump. Its irritating how it used to run basically silent, and now this buzzing out of nowhere









Call Corsair or go to their support site.
Good luck.


----------



## Zavia

The infamous buzz of doom... see if you had louder fans you wouldn't hear it lol.

Have an nzxt fan controller (sentry 2) and after re installing my panaflo fans it quit picking up the input for them so now i cant even control them with it, stupid thing. but since my fans seemed to be about as efficient at 40% as at 100% I guess it don't really matter all that much to me as long as there running.


----------



## thisispatrick

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mark_K* 
Call Corsair or go to their support site.
Good luck.

Haha, I think the warranty is 1 year. Oh well :\\


----------



## fitness4sia

how tight do you screw in the h50? I tightened it more but I'm not sure if I should tighten it anymore - I was told if the rear back plate hmm h50 supports start bending thats when I should stop tightening?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fitness4sia* 
how tight do you screw in the h50? I tightened it more but I'm not sure if I should tighten it anymore - I was told if the rear back plate hmm h50 supports start bending thats when I should stop tightening?

Just hand tightened should be enough. If you feel you overtightened it, just back the screws out a tad bit.


----------



## dude120

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DMac84* 
Ok, just put my 980X Setup together with the H70.

4.2GHz / 3.6Ghz Uncore
1.375VCore / 1.375 VTT (Dunno if thats too high or not, but anything lower will BSOD)

100 passes in LinX. Max Temp 82C. Is that too hot?

Im comfortable with it. But what are your thoughts.

Looking for 24/7 Build here. Thx

Edit: 5 Cores max at 76C and 1 core maxes at 82C. Pics after work.

76c is alright, 82c is a bit uncomfortable of a temperature. Although as long as your not stressing your computer at a 100% all the time there shouldn't be anything to worry about.


----------



## semajha

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 
Nice job on your first pc bud!! +rep

give that TIM some time to get burned in/spread out. 32c is pretty average for me when I do a fresh mount and check temp right away. Depending on the TIM(never used yours) you should see some improvement once it cures.


Hey thanks man! I know I was whoring this thread with my noob questions but thanks for being patient and helping me out. You're a real cool guy and have been extremely helpful along with everyone else at the OCN community.








Gottta give you a +1 rep bro.

And that's great to hear! I was read that you should also tighten up the brackets on the H70 a bit... That should help spread out the tim more and improve temps.


----------



## Mark_K

After a week give the screws a slight turn then you should be all set.


----------



## strongy

Hi Guys,

Here's my current setup.










I have recently bought 2 x Scythe S-FLEX 1600RPM Ultra Quiet 120mm Fan - 3/4 Pin
fans to setup as a push/pull.

Whats the deal with connecting these up to the M/B? I have not got the fans as yet. Expecting them in the next couple of hours. But I would think they come with PWM 3 pins? Not sure what kind of 4 pin converter they come with, so unsure if I can use it.

Would I be able to connect a 3 pin splitter on the 4pin Header? Or should I ignore that header and connect them up to a fan controller.

Would be greatful for any assistance you guys can pass along. Sorry if its a noob question.

More pics of my build at http://www.strongy.org.uk/obsidian/


----------



## Mark_K

Strongy,

I would connect them to your Scythe fan controller.
They are not PWM so wont work with the BIOS and MOBO.

I have mine connect to he MOBO but you need to trun off the fan contol in the BIOS.
They will run at 100% when connected via a molex and direct to the PSU. They dont run 100% when connect to the MOBO.

That's a really big case.


----------



## strongy

Thanks for the advice Mark.

Do you think I can use a splitter on the fan controller for the push/pull fans, as I plan to add other fans to the controller and need to ports.

And yes, its a big case







Room for a kitchen sink in there if need be







The case is a Corsair Obsidian 800D


----------



## chris14029

its been to long since i have been on here good to see we added the h70. i want one soon as i can get the money


----------



## semajha

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mark_K* 
After a week give the screws a slight turn then you should be all set.

Oops... I gave them more than just a slight turn and did not wait a week... The screws were not screwed in that tight to begin with. So I just tightened them(not too tight) until they barely started showing resistance. Ah well, I plan on reapplying different tim anyway.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *semajha* 
Oops... I gave them more than just a slight turn and did not wait a week... The screws were not screwed in that tight to begin with. So I just tightened them(not too tight) until they barely started showing resistance. Ah well, I plan on reapplying different tim anyway.

No worries. I tightened mine with a screwdriver until they won't turn anymore at all unless I were to really really force them some more. Temps are fine and I'm sure the TIM was spread very nicely.........plus this is also after I lapped the CPU and H50.


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:


Originally Posted by *semajha* 
Oops... I gave them more than just a slight turn and did not wait a week... The screws were not screwed in that tight to begin with. So I just tightened them(not too tight) until they barely started showing resistance. Ah well, I plan on reapplying different tim anyway.

Dont worry about it.
You are over teching it.
just tighten them again in a few weeks and you will be good.

No need to change TIM.


----------



## missourial

I mounted the rad in the top of my 800D as an intake with a push/pull configuration and I am getting great temps..about 33c at idle and 57-59c max temps under load. I want to change the fans to help reduce the noise. It isn't really loud but I would prefer it quieter but I don't want to sacrifice a little noise for higher temps. Any suggestions on fans that might run a little quieter in a push/pull configuration to make it less noisy without sacrificing an increase in temps? I am currently using cooler master 120mm with max 1600 rpms.


----------



## GuardianAngel237

Hey guys, I was wondering, is the H50 good enough to cool a Core 2 Quad Q9550 OC'd to 3.9ghz?

I am trying to decide whether to go the with a prebuilt system like this one and nullify upgrading to include a GPU cooler too or to buy a XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 kit.

My main worry I think is that my GPU gets very hot without 100% fan speed which is loud and it is bringing up my temps for my CPU. I was hoping going water with at least one of them would negate this complimentary heating.

Any help is great, helpful help is super.


----------



## XtachiX

hmmm, i have my q9550 at 3.4ghz and my load temps sit around 48, of course that is after i changed my TIM, i heard temps are better with the h70
you might want to consider the h70 since it has a pretty much bigger radiator and 2 fans come with it for push/pull setup
but h50 is good provided that you use good fans with enough cfm AND static pressure


----------



## GuardianAngel237

Quote:


Originally Posted by *XtachiX* 
hmmm, i have my q9550 at 3.4ghz and my load temps sit around 48, of course that is after i changed my TIM, i heard temps are better with the h70
you might want to consider the h70 since it has a pretty much bigger radiator and 2 fans come with it for push/pull setup
but h50 is good provided that you use good fans with enough cfm AND static pressure

I ran a test last night with just the CPU running at full load using OCCT and it didn't get above 56 degrees Celcius an any core.

My Vcore is at 1.368, PLL at 1.57, CPU term 1.28, RAM vcore 2.0, MCH core 1.22, ICH core 1.2. If there are any voltages that seem high to you, let me know, I'll try lowering them.

Also, with the 56C temp as a benchmark, my CPU gets a full 13 degrees C hotter when the GPU is being tested during OCCT's power supply test. Highest core at 68C.


----------



## eternal7trance

I'll be joining pretty soon. Just ordered some parts to change my system over to i7 and I'm going to use the h70.


----------



## Wolfgar83

I'm currently looking at getting the Corsair H50 for a while now for various obvious reasons, but there is one thing I'm wondering about that I can't find much of a answer on and am hoping someone here can help to answer the question I have.

I've heard about a few air coolers and liquid coolers that can have a problem with Condensation specifically around the copper base plate. During summers when a house gets hot enough or when there is enough left over heat in the case when the computer is turned off and that copper plate is left cold enough the Condensation can occur. Has anyone heard anything about this as a possibility with the Corsair H50, or is this not likely to be a problem? If it might be what might I do to take care of this before getting the cooler? I should note that I do often turn off my computer everyday when I'm done using it and the Motherboard and over all the whole case gets decently hot cause of this being a powerful system I have overall. Though my fixes I'm looking into for that I need not go into here.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wolfgar83*


I'm currently looking at getting the Corsair H50 for a while now for various obvious reasons, but there is one thing I'm wondering about that I can't find much of a answer on and am hoping someone here can help to answer the question I have.

I've heard about a few air coolers and liquid coolers that can have a problem with Condensation specifically around the copper base plate. During summers when a house gets hot enough or when there is enough left over heat in the case when the computer is turned off and that copper plate is left cold enough the Condensation can occur. Has anyone heard anything about this as a possibility with the Corsair H50, or is this not likely to be a problem? If it might be what might I do to take care of this before getting the cooler? I should note that I do often turn off my computer everyday when I'm done using it and the Motherboard and over all the whole case gets decently hot cause of this being a powerful system I have overall. Though my fixes I'm looking into for that I need not go into here.


Unless your living in a place where around your computer case is 85% humidity+ all the time then you have no need to worry. Even then since your computer heats the air inside it, it would remove a lot of the humidity so unless it rains on your computer case not much to worry about.


----------



## Wolfgar83

I live in Virginia not far from the beach so we got all that Salt water air and everything creating very humid days. Not sure if the heat in my case would be enough to do anything with all of that but still... What about the Radiator area getting condensation as that will likely be a spot kept pretty cold most of the time as well? I should note that my case sucks for airflow it only has 1 spot for case fan and that is the rear exhaust. Not even a spot for a intake fan thus my problem with the case getting pretty hot dunno if this might present a problem with the radiator setup creating condensation though I could set the Corsair's fan to blow out as exhaust I guess.

Updated my system profile to show what all I got.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wolfgar83* 
I live in Virginia not far from the beach so we got all that Salt water air and everything creating very humid days. Not sure if the heat in my case would be enough to do anything with all of that but still... What about the Radiator area getting condensation as that will likely be a spot kept pretty cold most of the time as well? I should note that my case sucks for airflow it only has 1 spot for case fan and that is the rear exhaust. Not even a spot for a intake fan thus my problem with the case getting pretty hot dunno if this might present a problem with the radiator setup creating condensation though I could set the Corsair's fan to blow out as exhaust I guess.

Updated my system profile to show what all I got.

It is unlikely to build up any condensation on the radiator or the CPU block simply because it is only using water and air to cool. Your not running your radiator in ice water or CO2 or something like that. Your just using air to cool the radiator so you can't go below whatever your ambient temps are for cooling without using something else to artificially cool it with so no real worries about condensation. Now if you have an abnormal amount of condensation in your house like water drips from the walls because it is so high or your in a basement that leaks or something like that then you might worry but if not then your good.

Your over analyzing something that is very unlikely to happen unless your living in the amazon rain forest in a tree.


----------



## SheepMoose

Just completed my first ever build thanks to OCN. Everything works and it posts but I'm a little concerned about the noise the H70 is producing. Apart from a air blowing noise it's kind of creating a low pitched squeal it seems, kind of like a "zzzzz" sound. It sounds to be coming directly from the fans and not the pump.

Is it a serious issue and should I contact corsair? Or is it something I can probably fix with a fan replacement?

I don't have any OS installed so I'm pretty sure the fans are just running at full blow. Can we expect that from these fans at 100% fan speed or what?


----------



## XtachiX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianAngel237* 
I ran a test last night with just the CPU running at full load using OCCT and it didn't get above 56 degrees Celcius an any core.

My Vcore is at 1.368, PLL at 1.57, CPU term 1.28, RAM vcore 2.0, MCH core 1.22, ICH core 1.2. If there are any voltages that seem high to you, let me know, I'll try lowering them.

Also, with the 56C temp as a benchmark, my CPU gets a full 13 degrees C hotter when the GPU is being tested during OCCT's power supply test. Highest core at 68C.

i think the voltages are fine
i mean using air cooled method while stressing the gpu along with the cpu then gpu is dumping heat on cpu as well (since heat goes up and that's where cpu heat sink is at)
at this point going with the h70 will reduce your cpu temps to at least 58 with gpu being stressed. i've seen the same processor on 4.2ghz with h50/h70 and the stress test doesnt reach 60c

so you will be able to further o/c your cpu and be on safe temps


----------



## alayoubi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SheepMoose* 
Just completed my first ever build thanks to OCN. Everything works and it posts but I'm a little concerned about the noise the H70 is producing. Apart from a air blowing noise it's kind of creating a low pitched squeal it seems, kind of like a "zzzzz" sound. It sounds to be coming directly from the fans and not the pump.

Is it a serious issue and should I contact corsair? Or is it something I can probably fix with a fan replacement?

just change the fans speed by using the speed converter included with H70.


----------



## semajha

I'm hearing very quiet trickling noises from my H70 pump.. Is this normal? I always get it right when turning my computer and it will occasionally happen at random times. I'd say maybe every 10min. or so... The trickling noises don't happen for very long, just for a second.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *semajha* 
I'm hearing very quiet trickling noises from my H70 pump.. Is this normal? I always get it right when turning my computer and it will occasionally happen at random times. I'd say maybe every 10min. or so... The trickling noises don't happen for very long, just for a second.

That would be a bit of trapped air. If it really bothers you take the pump off the CPU and give it a good shake (make sure its lower that the rad when you shake it). Re-seat it, run it for a few minutes and voila, no more "trickling noises".


----------



## GuardianAngel237

Quote:


Originally Posted by *XtachiX* 
i think the voltages are fine
i mean using air cooled method while stressing the gpu along with the cpu then gpu is dumping heat on cpu as well (since heat goes up and that's where cpu heat sink is at)
at this point going with the h70 will reduce your cpu temps to at least 58 with gpu being stressed. i've seen the same processor on 4.2ghz with h50/h70 and the stress test doesnt reach 60c

so you will be able to further o/c your cpu and be on safe temps

I ran into an issue with getting my CPU to 4ghz. An error in Prime95 that said return value was 5, expected less than 4. It didn't happen when I was testing just the CPU though, only when I was testing the RAM. The best I could do was 3.9ghz.

And if the H50 can handle my CPU then that is great. I have a 120mm fan that came with the case so I should be able do a push/pull setup.


----------



## Wolfgar83

So a few more questions with regards to the H50, as I'm looking to set up my computer with a completely new case as well as with the Corsair H50 right now to get a overall improvement to me cooling.

What does everyone think of using the following fan with the Corsair H50 in place or with the Provided fan (for a Push/pull set up)? http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...78779&csid=_21 
Is that fan a Higher RPM than the provided fan by Corsair? Would using it be a better option than the provided fan (including in a push/pull set up if say I had two of those fans)? Note the RPM is listed as 2100 RPM for that fan and it is a dual ball bearing fan.

Also if anyone is curious I'm looking at getting the following case as it has better capability for air flow than my current crappy case and looks cooler. http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Produc...2&ID=1957#Tab0

Also should I look into getting a power supply that is more than 750 watts or does it look like from my specs that I got enough power to run the H50?


----------



## SheepMoose

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alayoubi*


just change the fans speed by using the speed converter included with H70.


Hm, It sounds like it's not coming from the fans but fan related somehow. When the system firsts boots up the fans are spinning but don't make any noise, then the noise starts emitting. Loud pump maybe? Should I RMA it or what?


----------



## Kyushu

hi guys I was planning on getting 2 San aces http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27970 in push pull for my h50 mounted as intake in the front 5.25 drive bays in my haf x case. I was thinking about getting a 38mm shroud since I can get one for $10. Is that a good idea? What length bolt would I need for the 38mm shroud and a 25mm fan?

Was also thinking about taking the stock h50 fan and making that into a shroud to put on the pull side... Is that a good idea? What size bolts do I need for a 25mm shroud with a 25mm fan?

Have to be careful to not get any bolts that are too long so that I don't pierce the rad..

Btw, the gentle typhoon ap-15s have 58cfm and 20 static pressure at 26dba for $36 for 2.
San aces are 88cfm 64 static pressure! 40 dba $54 for 2 with shipping.. ;-( I think it's worth it though.


----------



## Sevastos

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kyushu*


I was thinking about getting a 38mm shroud since I can get one for $10. Is that a good idea? What length bolt would I need for the 38mm shroud and a 25mm fan


From what I've read so far, the optimal shroud is the 38mm one. As for the bolts now, you will need 2"3/4 length 6-32's I believe.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kyushu*


Was also thinking about taking the stock h50 fan and making that into a shroud to put on the pull side... Is that a good idea?


Don't think it will help that much because the shroud is used to eliminate the dead spot behind the fan's motor. Not sure if helps in the pull part. Don't take my word fo it though! ;-)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kyushu*


What size bolts do I need for a 25mm shroud with a 25mm fan?


You will need 2"1/4 bolts, 6-32's of course

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kyushu* 
hi guys I was planning on getting 2 San aces http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27970 in push pull for my h50 mounted as intake in the front 5.25 drive bays in my haf x case. I was thinking about getting a 38mm shroud since I can get one for $10. Is that a good idea? What length bolt would I need for the 38mm shroud and a 25mm fan?

Was also thinking about taking the stock h50 fan and making that into a shroud to put on the pull side... Is that a good idea? What size bolts do I need for a 25mm shroud with a 25mm fan?

Have to be careful to not get any bolts that are too long so that I don't pierce the rad..

Btw, the gentle typhoon ap-15s have 58cfm and 20 static pressure at 26dba for $36 for 2.
San aces are 88cfm 64 static pressure! 40 dba $54 for 2 with shipping.. ;-( I think it's worth it though.

Dont pre-buy your bolts.
Take the fan and shroud to the hardware store and fit the bolts there.
You are looking for 6/32 bolts you will need to test the length there.

When I bought my shroud it came with the right size bolts.

That's how I did it.


----------



## Darco19

I'm in!


----------



## TARRCO

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Darco19* 
I'm in!


















Welcome, but by the look's of it, it loooks like you've had that for a while now, look at the dust on that rad


----------



## rpgman1

Clean that rad! We don't want temps. to get worse because of dust getting in the way of airflow.


----------



## pedrosa

Jeez, looks like someone has emptied a hoover bag onto your rad. You had better clean it off quick, the airflow is being seriously restricted


----------



## Chicken Patty

hmm you had a nice theme going on and then you put some RAM with red heatsinks. Get some with blue sinks, or just buy the heat spreaders.


----------



## Darco19

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
hmm you had a nice theme going on and then you put some RAM with red heatsinks. Get some with blue sinks, or just buy the heat spreaders.









I could fit in those corsair airflow fans too, but everyone says they're loud and they aren't that great... other than that, I guess I best get cleaning!


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Darco19* 
I could fit in those corsair airflow fans too, but everyone says they're loud and they aren't that great... other than that, I guess I best get cleaning!









Before I had filters on all my intake fans I had to clean my H50 radiator I used a vacuum with a soft brush attachment it worked very well cleaned almost all of it off. I used a little bit of isopropyl alcohol(90%+ only) on the brush while cleaning it and with the two got probably 99% of it.

With the filters I have on it now from DEMCiflex there is no more dust problems.


----------



## lightsout

Trying to get 4ghz stable. Just hit 63c while running IBT on max memory. Thats with push pull with the fans that come with a hyper 212. CM blade masters I believe.

Not happy with the temps may try to change the tim as its the original and I've messed with it a couple times.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Darco19* 
I could fit in those corsair airflow fans too, but everyone says they're loud and they aren't that great... other than that, I guess I best get cleaning!









They weren't that loud IMO. I have had them before.


----------



## RonB94GT

Getting ready to install in my HAF922. Going Push/Pull San Ace's with a shroud later. Room Temp 82 F, Inside case 86 F and behind case 84 F. just wondering since their is so little temp difference would it be better as an exhaust, I don't know how much the holes in case will restrict flow. I may cut the case later. And I hear the H50 tim is good?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RonB94GT* 
Getting ready to install in my HAF922. Going Push/Pull San Ace's with a shroud later. Room Temp 82 F, Inside case 86 F and behind case 84 F. just wondering since their is so little temp difference would it be better as an exhaust, I don't know how much the holes in case will restrict flow. I may cut the case later. And I hear the H50 tim is good?

Besides airflow you may want to cut the case too because a lot of the times it will cause an annoying whine because of the grates on the back of the case.

Most here do exhaust even though you may get a few degrees cooler doing intake it isn't worth heating every other component in your case getting those few degrees for your CPU.

The H50 TIM is one of the best if not thee best TIM but, it has one downfall they put way too much on it. My suggestion has always been to put a rubber glove on and take it all off split it in half then reapply that should give you about the right amount.

Good luck with your install


----------



## RonB94GT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Besides airflow you may want to cut the case too because a lot of the times it will cause an annoying whine because of the grates on the back of the case.

Most here do exhaust even though you may get a few degrees cooler doing intake it isn't worth heating every other component in your case getting those few degrees for your CPU.

The H50 TIM is one of the best if not thee best TIM but, it has one downfall they put way too much on it. My suggestion has always been to put a rubber glove on and take it all off split it in half then reapply that should give you about the right amount.

Good luck with your install









Exhaust it is. Is the stock tim like a putty. Do you try to smear and cover entire pump or just but a ball in the middle. I do have some SHIN-ETSU X23-7783D. Rep for the help.


----------



## Darco19

Haha, my temps dropped by 2-3c after the cleaning







Looks like it paid out well! Also, would it be any better to put my other fan outside the case inside of inside?


----------



## Kyushu

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mark_K* 
Dont pre-buy your bolts.
Take the fan and shroud to the hardware store and fit the bolts there.
You are looking for 6/32 bolts you will need to test the length there.

When I bought my shroud it came with the right size bolts.

That's how I did it.

Where did you buy your shroud?


----------



## brodieboy143

Count me in! Had my H70 for 2 Days now and have been reading through this forum for a good amount of the time its been running Prime95 or Folding.

I've got it fitted in my Antec 902 right now and trust me, its a tight fit! The corner of the push fan (Push/Pull Exhaust) is resting against the frame of my North bridge fan and the frame that holds the side fan in place is against the corner of the radiator. I'm starting to thing maybe i should have gotten the H50 instead as i wouldn't have to mod anything. (But wheres the fun in that?)

However, i have just ordered 2 Scythe 120mmx12mm fans to use as a ghetto shroud. Due to space constraints (the Fan controller bit at the top and the PCI slot brackets) i cant fit the radiator flush against the pack of the case and simply have the pull fan on the outside. Instead i plan to have the 2 12mm shrouds either side of the case for the effect of a 25mm shroud, with half being either side of the back of the case.

With this, i aim to regain use of my side fan, and to stop the noise from my R4 in pull (High pitched kind of noise, as described earlier in the thread)

Ill post back with results and more pics but for now, here's my current setup


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RonB94GT* 
Exhaust it is. Is the stock tim like a putty. Do you try to smear and cover entire pump or just but a ball in the middle. I do have some SHIN-ETSU X23-7783D. Rep for the help.

I forget the exact Shin-Etsu that the H50 uses but know that is is one of the number one rated and a "zero" cure time TIM. It is kind of a putty type TIM the way it is on there when you get it is spread over the whole block/pump I would try to do the same when re-applying it try to spread it evenly over the block/pump surface. I really have not dealt with that thick of TIM before the H50. I ended up replacing my stock H50 TIM with AS5 because of not knowing what was on it to begin with and after the cure time I am very happy with my temps.

Really as long as you don't get air bubbles between the CPU and the block surface and your level then you shouldn't notice a difference of more than a very few degrees between any high quality TIM.


----------



## dockiks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *brodieboy143*


I've got it fitted in my Antec 902 right now and trust me, its a tight fit! The corner of the push fan (Push/Pull Exhaust) is resting against the frame of my North bridge fan and the frame that holds the side fan in place is against the corner of the radiator. I'm starting to thing maybe i should have gotten the H50 instead as i wouldn't have to mod anything. (But wheres the fun in that?)










You could mount the pull fan outside the case like I did. I had a similar problem with my Thermaltake Element T side panel 200mm fan making contact with the lower corner of my push fan, preventing closure. I also cut out the case fan grill to remove any acoustic effects it could have.


----------



## brodieboy143

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dockiks*


You could mount the pull fan outside the case like I did.


That's the eventual plan but the radiator wont fit directly against the back of the case and needs about 10-12mm clearance. If i try to mount it with the pull fan on the outside now, The bottom of the radiator either hits the top expansion slot or the top hits the fan controller at the back. I can take the fan controller out, but then the radiator sits a fraction too high and the holes won't line up.

I plan to eventually have it as:
Pull << 12mm Shroud << Case << 12mm Shroud << Rad << Push

I considered mounting it in my front drive bays as an intake, and i have all the equipment to do so (without resorting to zip ties), but i am planning to eventually put a 240mm rad there for my graphics card.

Also, does anyone think the mesh/grill on the back of the case would impede airflow too much? It is made of hexagonal mesh with a solid portion in the centre to block off the fan logo when it is mounted there. I could cut it out, but i don't want to mess my case up too much if its going to have minimal effect anyway


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *brodieboy143*


That's the eventual plan but the radiator wont fit directly against the back of the case and needs about 10-12mm clearance. If i try to mount it with the pull fan on the outside now, The bottom of the radiator either hits the top expansion slot or the top hits the fan controller at the back. I can take the fan controller out, but then the radiator sits a fraction too high and the holes won't line up.

I plan to eventually have it as:
Pull << 12mm Shroud << Case << 12mm Shroud << Rad << Push

I considered mounting it in my front drive bays as an intake, and i have all the equipment to do so (without resorting to zip ties), but i am planning to eventually put a 240mm rad there for my graphics card.

Also, does anyone think the mesh/grill on the back of the case would impede airflow too much? It is made of hexagonal mesh with a solid portion in the centre to block off the fan logo when it is mounted there. I could cut it out, but i don't want to mess my case up too much if its going to have minimal effect anyway


Having a shroud on the pull side really doesn't improve the temps much if at all it will make the biggest difference on the push side. Though I see with your setup you might not have a choice to make it fit. Cutting out the grate on the back of your case can have another few degrees difference. There was one poster a few pages back that had a fan guard just for looks on one of his fans on the inside of his case and I advised him to remove it that it may drop his temps; he actually dropped 3C by removing it. You could drop the same temps possibly from a grate on the back of the case.


----------



## Wolfgar83

So um surprised no one has answered my questions on fans and if my power supply is enough power for me to run the H50 that I put in my last post on page 1400. Anyone have the answers I was looking for?


----------



## brodieboy143

I'm not really looking to improve temps as much as i'm looking to reduce noise. The R4 as a pull fan has a tendency to make a high pitched noise, which is more annoying than all my other fans combined. Other users have reported that this is fixed by adding a shroud. I would also like to be able to use my side fan again, since it blows directly on my 470 (plus the blue LED's and clear frame add to the looks of the case)

As far as temps go, I'm currently getting a max of 65 on all cores running Prime95 Small FFTs for about 2 hours, which i'm happy with. Ill look at cutting the back grill out too, up to 3c is a lot for a free mod, and it can't exactly hurt temperatures


----------



## brodieboy143

@Wolfgar83

Your power supply is more than sufficient to run an H50. I have a 750W and a similar setup and i am running an OC'd Fermi and a Core 2 Extreme Quad. You'll have absolutely no issues with power.

As for those fans, If those specifications are correct, they should be good for use with the H50. IIRC the corsair fans are 2000RPM and push abour 50-60 CFM. Those run faster at 2100RPM, push more air and have a reasonably high static pressure, making them well suited for a radiator. Compare them to the specifications of some of the more used fans in this forum, Such as Scythe Ultra Kaze's, Cooler master R4's and GT AP-15's to get a general idea of their relative performance. Check the First page of the forum for links to more commonly used fans and their specifications.


----------



## Sevastos

Proud new owner of H70 reporting!




Waitting for longer screws so I can put the shroud at the push side


----------



## SonDa5

Recently upgraded from DFI P45 chipset with Q9550 which worked great with the H50.

New MB is DFI X58 JR with i7-930. Kept the same H50 and did some mods for better cooling.

Adding the "ghetto Shrouds" and a matching 120x120x38mm Scythe Kaze fan to my set up lowered idle temps 2 degrees celsius and lowered 100% load temps 3.75 degrees celsius. (prime95)



















Still not sold on the H70 for my RIG. The tubes are a little too short on the H70 to match my current H50 set up.

H70 does interest me though.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *brodieboy143* 
I'm not really looking to improve temps as much as i'm looking to reduce noise. The R4 as a pull fan has a tendency to make a high pitched noise, which is more annoying than all my other fans combined. Other users have reported that this is fixed by adding a shroud. I would also like to be able to use my side fan again, since it blows directly on my 470 (plus the blue LED's and clear frame add to the looks of the case)

As far as temps go, I'm currently getting a max of 65 on all cores running Prime95 Small FFTs for about 2 hours, which i'm happy with. Ill look at cutting the back grill out too, up to 3c is a lot for a free mod, and it can't exactly hurt temperatures









Yup R4s scream when in pull against the rad. Shroud highly recommended.
Food for experimentation:


----------



## looser101

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRmC5NnZH1U





From this post:
http://www.overclock.net/10964499-post29.html


----------



## Niloklives

Sorry if this has been answered, but with 1400+ pages it's tough to read through them all.

I'm building a rig for a friend and we've ordered an H50 for cooling, but we're looking at setting up push/pull fans for it and he really wants blue LEDs on them. I've been reading all over the net and it seems like most LED fans don't offer a lot of static pressure which as I understand is important for radiators. At this point, we're looking at these three:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103060
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835426024
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835150115

Which would you guys recommend? Also, as i understand it, the Gelids are PWMs and don't come with an adapter. I'm hooking this up to an Asus Sabertooth X58. if we went with the Gelids would my best option for wiring be to hook them to CPU_FAN and CHA_FAN1 and then use an extension cable to hook the pump to CHA_FAN2 or is there something better?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Niloklives* 
Sorry if this has been answered, but with 1400+ pages it's tough to read through them all.

I'm building a rig for a friend and we've ordered an H50 for cooling, but we're looking at setting up push/pull fans for it and he really wants blue LEDs on them. I've been reading all over the net and it seems like most LED fans don't offer a lot of static pressure which as I understand is important for radiators. At this point, we're looking at these three:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103060
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835426024
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835150115

Which would you guys recommend? Also, as i understand it, the Gelids are PWMs and don't come with an adapter. I'm hooking this up to an Asus Sabertooth X58. if we went with the Gelids would my best option for wiring be to hook them to CPU_FAN and CHA_FAN1 and then use an extension cable to hook the pump to CHA_FAN2 or is there something better?

If he has to go with LED then I'd suggest a yate loon best bang for the buck and can pick low, medium, high speed. If he went with medium or high speed he could connect it to the motherboard or fan controller and then throttle the speed based on temps so they would be at a tolerable noise level.

You can choose to go unsleaved from the link I will put below and lower the cost down to $3.99 per fan or something like that.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c3...ml?id=bHfBwY5j


----------



## Ivan TSI

Yates are very good fans (not as good as GT AP15's but they are good) and came with leds, you should look in to those

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27142


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Niloklives* 
Sorry if this has been answered, but with 1400+ pages it's tough to read through them all.

I'm building a rig for a friend and we've ordered an H50 for cooling, but we're looking at setting up push/pull fans for it and he really wants blue LEDs on them. I've been reading all over the net and it seems like most LED fans don't offer a lot of static pressure which as I understand is important for radiators. At this point, we're looking at these three:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103060
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835426024
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835150115

Which would you guys recommend? Also, as i understand it, the Gelids are PWMs and don't come with an adapter. I'm hooking this up to an Asus Sabertooth X58. if we went with the Gelids would my best option for wiring be to hook them to CPU_FAN and CHA_FAN1 and then use an extension cable to hook the pump to CHA_FAN2 or is there something better?

Looking at the post above you, the R4 fans are also very good.


----------



## Niloklives

Thanks, i've read really good things about yates, I read that Gelids outperform them...though for 7 dollars each it's hard to say no. As I understand it the TIM on the H50 is some of the best out there. Should I bother replacing it with AS5 or leave well enough alone?

Thanks again for all the input.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Freaxy* 
Looking at the post above you, the R4 fans are also very good.

Correct me if I'm wrong but R4s tend to make a whine sound when pulling against the radiator. I know that can be fixed with a shroud, but every time I bring up another expense my friend twitches. If that's not the case though, I like those better than the Yates. Still. I'd rather get the rig put together and let him enjoy it for a bit then show him how we can make it better. He's not tech savvy enough to do a lot of this on his own.


----------



## RonB94GT

Installed but can't get speed of fans right. Cool n Quiet is disabled and don't really see any options in bios to do anything else. If I plug them correctly the fan only runs a 900 rpm on the cpu fan and fan 1 only runs at 1,500 rpm fan 2 2,700 rpm. I switch the pump to fan 1 and get 1,400 rpm and one of the fans drops to 1,400 like the other. They are 2,700 rpm fans. Also in HWMonitor one of the socket's now shows a -57. Any suggestions?


----------



## RonB94GT




----------



## RonB94GT

Figuared out the fans any Ideals on the temp?


----------



## XtachiX

sensor issue?


----------



## RonB94GT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *XtachiX* 
sensor issue?

Worked fine untill I installed the H50?


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kyushu* 
Where did you buy your shroud?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24275


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RonB94GT* 
Worked fine untill I installed the H50?

Try other programs if that doesn't work possibly updating bios.


----------



## brl3git

After installing it seems to run better than the V8 that i previously had, but im only using an intake fan as opposed to a push pull configuration, if i switched to that would i notice a big difference ?


----------



## brodieboy143

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Niloklives* 
Correct me if I'm wrong but R4s tend to make a whine sound when pulling against the radiator. I know that can be fixed with a shroud, but every time I bring up another expense my friend twitches.

I have the R4's and yes they do make a whine sound in pull at full speed. I'm using the H70 rather than the H50, but i just added the included inline resistors to decrease fan speed and the whining is as good as gone. If your friend has a fan controller, then perhaps this is a viable option. Just remember that ideally, both fans should be running at the same speed.

Also, you could consider a homemade shroud by cutting out the middle of a 120mm fan, leaving just the outer frame. I did it with an old broken fan i had, as it was no use to me anyway. If you don't have an old/broken fan, perhaps try the local computer shop, you might be able to pick up a dirt cheap used or broken on there. That would be one less expense your friend has to worry about


----------



## Kyushu

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mark_K* 
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24275

Thanks

Can get a 120x 38mm shroud for $10 (ultra kaze).


----------



## looser101

More fan tests:

http://www.overclock.net/10968801-post36.html


----------



## Kyushu

Ok want to get 2 of these 120x38mm http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27971 + a 38mm fan shroud on the intake side and a 25mm shroud on the pull side. What 6/32 bolts size do I need to make sure I don't pierce the rad?


----------



## Raoul

Had a H50, bought a H70:


----------



## Ikthus

So I finally found some of the screws I needed for my shroud on FrozenCPU but...










All the hardware stores around me don't have any 6-32 screws this long either...sigh


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ikthus*


So I finally found some of the screws I needed for my shroud on FrozenCPU but...

All the hardware stores around me don't have any 6-32 screws this long either...sigh










CanadianTire has 3" toggle bolts that you can cut to fit. They may also have 2.5", I don't remember.


----------



## xstasy

Added new GT and sleeved them.








More sleevings done, practically everything visible in the front of the casing are sleeved. 
Rearranged the unisleeve 24pins cables as well.


----------



## xstasy

Am thinking of adding a shroud though, but the troubles are finding the screws. 
Is it really worth the trouble? How much drops in temps will i be looking at?


----------



## Ikthus

Hmm I guess I'll check out CT one more time...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xstasy* 
Am thinking of adding a shroud though, but the troubles are finding the screws.
Is it really worth the trouble? How much drops in temps will i be looking at?

Probably only 1-2C at best if any...I'm really just trying to reduce the noise made by my pull fan.


----------



## Bamxcore

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rains* 
Temps:


Setup:









Also, my Antec TriCool is now on medium, so both fans are spinning at 1600RPM.

PS thanks for helping me out, I appreciate it









What case is that? looks beastly!


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bamxcore* 
What case is that? looks beastly!

Look at the case itself it actually lists the manufacturer and I think model.....you can always look at the person sig too if they listed their system specs from the user cp...but I do see that they have a CM Storm Scout listed as their case in their sig rig and know that the pic is an Antec case. Though it shouldn't be too hard to find what full tower Antec case it is.


----------



## Munkypoo7

Added myself to the spreadsheet











Shaved ~8C off of my TRUE Black Push|Pull (on load), fans aren't terrible, but somewhat annoying audio-wise, even with the inline resistors, but I'll get over it in time. Set it up as exhaust as well, since the FT01's airflow works one way, which is great to avoid dust and keep temps down ^^

All that.. with a smaller footprint, less of a monstrosity and is a beauty to the eyes, no real hard complaints here


----------



## alienguts

bought 2 kaze 3000s and 2 gentletyphoon1850s to go with H50 in push pull, we'll see which config I like best.


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kyushu* 
Thanks

Can get a 120x 38mm shroud for $10 (ultra kaze).


Not really the same thing but hey what ever works for you.


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ikthus* 
So I finally found some of the screws I needed for my shroud on FrozenCPU but...










All the hardware stores around me don't have any 6-32 screws this long either...sigh










LOL you guys are killing me!

once you get your fans and shroud go to any good hardware staore and you will find the screws you need and you can fit them right there to be exact.

Stop over teching this......


----------



## grillinman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Munkypoo7* 
Added myself to the spreadsheet











Shaved ~8C off of my TRUE Black Push|Pull (on load), fans aren't terrible, but somewhat annoying audio-wise, even with the inline resistors, but I'll get over it in time. Set it up as exhaust as well, since the FT01's airflow works one way, which is great to avoid dust and keep temps down ^^

All that.. with a smaller footprint, less of a monstrosity and is a beauty to the eyes, no real hard complaints here









Well done! That case's innards sure do look purty.

Edit: I see your fans are bugging you with noise. Is one of them mounted on the outside of the case? If so that could be causing the annoying whine. I had to move both fans inside the case to get my H50 to be quiet.


----------



## grillinman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ikthus* 
So I finally found some of the screws I needed for my shroud on FrozenCPU but...










All the hardware stores around me don't have any 6-32 screws this long either...sigh









Really?! No hardware store has those screws? I almost feel bad enough to go to Ace and buy them and mail them to you. Geez! What the heck is wrong with hardware stores in Canada anyways?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xstasy* 
Am thinking of adding a shroud though, but the troubles are finding the screws.
Is it really worth the trouble? How much drops in temps will i be looking at?

Added shrouding to my system and noticed a 4 to 5 C degree drop in mine. Push/pull scythe SFlex F exhaust out the top of case.

Edit: Sorry for double post!


----------



## Munkypoo7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *grillinman* 
Well done! That case's innards sure do look purty.

Edit: I see your fans are bugging you with noise. Is one of them mounted on the outside of the case? If so that could be causing the annoying whine. I had to move both fans inside the case to get my H50 to be quiet.

Haha thanks ^^

As for the noise, it's just that "whooshy" noise of air being pushed, not a whine per-se. Like a moron I didn't think my board had a fan tweaker utility [which it did], knocked the fans down to 1200rpm, lost 1C on load, but definitely worth the silence


----------



## Wolfgar83

Quote:



Originally Posted by *brodieboy143*


@Wolfgar83

Your power supply is more than sufficient to run an H50. I have a 750W and a similar setup and i am running an OC'd Fermi and a Core 2 Extreme Quad. You'll have absolutely no issues with power.

As for those fans, If those specifications are correct, they should be good for use with the H50. IIRC the corsair fans are 2000RPM and push abour 50-60 CFM. Those run faster at 2100RPM, push more air and have a reasonably high static pressure, making them well suited for a radiator. Compare them to the specifications of some of the more used fans in this forum, Such as Scythe Ultra Kaze's, Cooler master R4's and GT AP-15's to get a general idea of their relative performance. Check the First page of the forum for links to more commonly used fans and their specifications.


Thanks, now I just have to discover what the LED case fans in the new case I'm getting run at for RPM and such. So I know if I got to replace them with something better suited (2000 RPM or better) though preferably still LED haha. The links I saw in this thread for LED fans should help if that is the case. I'll post here again with questions when I get them or a pic of the new setup when I'm done.


----------



## Ikthus

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mark_K* 
LOL you guys are killing me!

once you get your fans and shroud go to any good hardware staore and you will find the screws you need and you can fit them right there to be exact.

Stop over teching this......

What the heck does over teching mean? Also please try and actually *read* my post next time, I already checked the hardware stores around me and they don't carry 6/32 screws at that length.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *grillinman* 
Really?! No hardware store has those screws? I almost feel bad enough to go to Ace and buy them and mail them to you. Geez! What the heck is wrong with hardware stores in Canada anyways?

I'd be forever in your debt if you did


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ikthus* 
What the heck does over teching mean? Also please try and actually *read* my post next time, I already checked the hardware stores around me and they don't carry 6/32 screws at that length.

I'd be forever in your debt if you did









You dont know what over teching means? lol.....
Sorry you cant find these screws.
Try on-line at Home Depot or Lowes. They may ship to Canada.


----------



## Ikthus

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mark_K* 
You dont know what over teching means? lol.....
Sorry you cant find these screws.
Try on-line at Home Depot or Lowes. They may ship to Canada.

Not in the context that you used... is it just because I'm shopping online for screws? What's wrong with that lol.

I've already checked my local Home Depot but if I can find a Lowes nearby I'll give it a shot, thanks.

edit: Finally had a chance to take a pic of my rig


----------



## StrifeFox

I got a question for you guys. According to the set up in my sig (click spoiler). (I'm also going ot be using AP-15s on the H50 for a push/pull configuration) Should I have the H50 in exhaust or intake?


----------



## M1nUrThr3t

I would say it depends on your Case layout, but i would think that as intake(factors to be involved) you would get cooler temps.

I would also recommend a shroud on the push side of your h50


----------



## StrifeFox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *M1nUrThr3t* 
I would say it depends on your Case layout, but i would think that as intake(factors to be involved) you would get cooler temps.

I would also recommend a shroud on the push side of your h50











Err sorry but what would the shroud be for?


----------



## Syrillian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StrifeFox* 









Err sorry but what would the shroud be for?

A shroud moves the face of the hub away from the radiator face thereby eliminating the "dead-spot" that the fan hub would otherwise create.

The dead-spot is the area that receives no direct air flow.


----------



## MorbEIn

Hello fellow H50/H70 Owners! I just got my H70 unit this afternoon and installed it, at the moment im not sure if its that good or not compared to the previous one i had which is a mega shadow.

i have it in a push/pull config, 1800fan pushing and 1400 pulling, is this the best set up? im using xigmatek and one of the stock corsair fans that came with the h70 while scouting for fans i can buy.

At the moment, i'm getting an idle temp of 40-41C :S. I tried reseating twice, and applied different amounts of TIM but to no avail...

I have a feeling its the setup of my fans at the moment? I have it on top as an exhaust... ** if you know what a FT02 looks like. any suggestions?

thanks ^_^

will post pic when i get this sorted... I r wanting 2 be in clubz 2!


----------



## grillinman

Nice choice for top exhaust! That's how mine is (H50) and I get great temps.

I suggest using matching, good quality, fans. This make the push/pull "work better" since the air is being moved at the same speed.

Edit: Did you remove stock TIM? It's good Shin Etsu that comes with it so it's recommended by many to leave it on there. If you did remove it what did you replace it with?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MorbEIn* 
Hello fellow H50/H70 Owners! I just got my H70 unit this afternoon and installed it, at the moment im not sure if its that good or not compared to the previous one i had which is a mega shadow.

i have it in a push/pull config, 1800fan pushing and 1400 pulling, is this the best set up? im using xigmatek and one of the stock corsair fans that came with the h70 while scouting for fans i can buy.

At the moment, i'm getting an idle temp of 40-41C :S. I tried reseating twice, and applied different amounts of TIM but to no avail...

I have a feeling its the setup of my fans at the moment? I have it on top as an exhaust... ** if you know what a FT02 looks like. any suggestions?

thanks ^_^

will post pic when i get this sorted... I r wanting 2 be in clubz 2!

Depends what kind of TIM you used. Did you leave the stock TIM your first try? Depending on the TIM used there may be a cure time and temps shouldn't be counted final until that cure time is passed.


----------



## StrifeFox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Syrillian* 
A shroud moves the face of the hub away from the radiator face thereby eliminating the "dead-spot" that the fan hub would otherwise create.

The dead-spot is the area that receives no direct air flow.

Oh I get it. So the shroud goes between the push fan and the radiator giving it space for me air, right?

Another question I have is that one I get my build together is it recommended I use a different thermal paste or stick with the one that's already applied to the H50?


----------



## MorbEIn

i used a dab of AS5

ahh.. so fans that has an equal speed is better than having a fast/slow one?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MorbEIn* 
Hello fellow H50/H70 Owners! I just got my H70 unit this afternoon and installed it, at the moment im not sure if its that good or not compared to the previous one i had which is a mega shadow.

i have it in a push/pull config, 1800fan pushing and 1400 pulling, is this the best set up? im using xigmatek and one of the stock corsair fans that came with the h70 while scouting for fans i can buy.

At the moment, i'm getting an idle temp of 40-41C :S. I tried reseating twice, and applied different amounts of TIM but to no avail...

I have a feeling its the setup of my fans at the moment? I have it on top as an exhaust... ** if you know what a FT02 looks like. any suggestions?

thanks ^_^

will post pic when i get this sorted... I r wanting 2 be in clubz 2!


Somthing is most definetly not right. What is your ambient temperature? With that CPU (at stock) and that cooler at 20 C ambient you should idle at about 27 C. Max temp using Prime 95 blended should be no higher than about 48 C. Note you should always try to have a matched pair of fans for push pull, also make sure they are in fact push/pull and not push/push (it has happened before). Is the pump at max rpm? If not use molex to attach directly to power supply.


----------



## MorbEIn

'Is the pump at max RPM?'

hm.. How can i find that out?


----------



## semajha

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MorbEIn* 
Hello fellow H50/H70 Owners! I just got my H70 unit this afternoon and installed it, at the moment im not sure if its that good or not compared to the previous one i had which is a mega shadow.

i have it in a push/pull config, 1800fan pushing and 1400 pulling, is this the best set up? im using xigmatek and one of the stock corsair fans that came with the h70 while scouting for fans i can buy.

At the moment, i'm getting an idle temp of 40-41C :S. I tried reseating twice, and applied different amounts of TIM but to no avail...

I have a feeling its the setup of my fans at the moment? I have it on top as an exhaust... ** if you know what a FT02 looks like. any suggestions?

thanks ^_^

will post pic when i get this sorted... I r wanting 2 be in clubz 2!

Those are the same kind of temps I'm getting on stock pc settings, except my fan is running at 2000RPM! What kind of TIM are you using? And how are you applying it? I used Ceramique and just applied pressure to the heatsink instead of spreading it out manually. I also have my push/pull fans as as exhaust.

Plan on reapplying different TIM, using Shin Etsu this time. I'll let you know how that goes.


----------



## MicahFett

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MorbEIn* 
'Is the pump at max RPM?'

hm.. How can i find that out?

Physicall look at your mobo to see where the pump is receiving its power (probably a system fan header labeled something like sys_fan1 on the mobo). After you physically determine which header its getting power from, reboot the computer and hop into your BIOS. Browse the bios for a page with fan settings and temperature readings (in my BIOS I think it's called System Health or something).

Look at the list of fans (CPU Fan, Sys Fan 1, Sys Fan2, etc.). It should list the RPM for each fan (or in this case, the pump).

Make sure that you have all of your fan settings on manual for whichever header your pump is getting power from, that way it will run full RPM instead of throttling it based on CPU temp.

The RPM should be in the neighborhood of 1400. Mine runs at 1380.


----------



## StrifeFox

So the shroud goes between the push and radiator right?


----------



## grillinman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StrifeFox* 
So the shroud goes between the push and radiator right?

That's where mine hangs out!









That is definitely where you want the shroud since you are trying to remove the dead spot from the middle of the radiator caused by the fan hub. In a perfect world 2 shrouds can be used to achieve maximum flow through the rad but sometimes people don't have room for that.


----------



## StrifeFox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *grillinman* 
That's where mine hangs out!









That is definitely where you want the shroud since you are trying to remove the dead spot from the middle of the radiator caused by the fan hub. In a perfect world 2 shrouds can be used to achieve maximum flow through the rad but sometimes people don't have room for that.

Thanks. Would I need extra screws? If so what sizes?


----------



## grillinman

You will need longer screws to go through the fan, shroud and rad. The length depends on the thickness of your shroud. I made my own shroud out of an old crappy fan that was 120mm x 120mm x 20mm (thickness).

So a 20mm thick shroud made me use 6/32 x 2.5" screws. Just go to the hardware store and ask for exactly that. They were a little long so I purchased some good plastic washers and rubber grommets for anti-vibration.


----------



## StrifeFox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *grillinman* 
You will need longer screws to go through the fan, shroud and rad. The length depends on the thickness of your shroud. I made my own shroud out of an old crappy fan that was 120mm x 120mm x 20mm (thickness).

So a 20mm thick shroud made me use 6/32 x 2.5" screws. Just go to the hardware store and ask for exactly that. They were a little long so I purchased some good plastic washers and rubber grommets for anti-vibration.

-.-

Guess I shouldn't have ordered those 6/32 x 1.25 screws so soon. Meh it only cost me $3 for a box of 25 of them.

I think I'm going to just make my own shroud from a 120mm fan from the current PC I'm using.


----------



## grillinman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StrifeFox* 
-.-

I think I'm going to just make my own shroud from a 120mm fan from the current PC I'm using.

An excellent idea! Cheap and effective, my favorite!


----------



## MorbEIn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MicahFett* 
Physicall look at your mobo to see where the pump is receiving its power (probably a system fan header labeled something like sys_fan1 on the mobo). After you physically determine which header its getting power from, reboot the computer and hop into your BIOS. Browse the bios for a page with fan settings and temperature readings (in my BIOS I think it's called System Health or something).

Look at the list of fans (CPU Fan, Sys Fan 1, Sys Fan2, etc.). It should list the RPM for each fan (or in this case, the pump).

Make sure that you have all of your fan settings on manual for whichever header your pump is getting power from, that way it will run full RPM instead of throttling it based on CPU temp.

The RPM should be in the neighborhood of 1400. Mine runs at 1380.

Here's my temps and so on, **Apologies for wide screen, dual screen setup and im not the best person to edit photos... :$**


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

and my H70 ^_^ Any suggestions on what i can change to further overclock my 955? ^_^


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Thanks!


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StrifeFox* 
-.-

Guess I shouldn't have ordered those 6/32 x 1.25 screws so soon. Meh it only cost me $3 for a box of 25 of them.

I think I'm going to just make my own shroud from a 120mm fan from the current PC I'm using.


Read back a few pages and you will see pictures of shourds and the size of scres to get.

Reading the pages you will learn a lot.


----------



## StrifeFox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mark_K* 
Read back a few pages and you will see pictures of shourds and the size of scres to get.

Reading the pages you will learn a lot.

I don't like archiving. Over 1400 pages and so I got intimidated and decided to ask instead.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MorbEIn* 
i used a dab of AS5

ahh.. so fans that has an equal speed is better than having a fast/slow one?

AS5 Has a 200 hour cure time so after you are sure your computer has run for 200 hours and had many full cool downs in between then you can consider that your final temp. My temps actually dropped almost 5C after my AS5 cure time was up.

Running two fans of the same RPM is the best setup. If one fan is slower than the other it restricts the flow of the other fan. If you have to use one fan that is faster than the other one the push fan should be the faster one. You might also check temps to see if they are better just using a push fan since you are using different speed fans since the slower fan may just restrict flow rather than helping pull more air through.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MorbEIn* 
Here's my temps and so on, **Apologies for wide screen, dual screen setup and im not the best person to edit photos... :$**

and my H70 ^_^ Any suggestions on what i can change to further overclock my 955? ^_^

Thanks!

Those temps really don't tell us much idle temps all depend on total setup,ambient temps, computer placement. Since everyone's setup is different in some way then it is pretty much like saying well my car is green and it gets this hot how can I make it go faster.

You need to use a program like Prime95 or the like and get a max temperature reading. You shouldn't even think about OCing before you are certain your temps at stock are stable and won't push your CPU too hot(63C max rated for an AMD like yours)

It took me quite some time to get my H50 setup going good for me and get my temps to a reasonable range. I had to wait for my 200 hours of cure time on AS5 before I really saw my best temps.


----------



## GuardianAngel237

I just installed my H50 and overall I am disappointed by my temps. I know there is supposed to be a curing period but I wanted to check base with you guys to see if you thought I should be getting something better.

First of all, what is the code for creating an embedded image?

My temps are 38C core 0, 36C core 1, 41C core 2, and 31C core 3. With my air cooling setup I was getting slightly cooler temps, more like 35C, 34C, 41C, and 28C.

Under load I get roughly 64C max core during a short run, I expect it would get much hotter if I left it running.

I have it in push config exhaust since I tried all other configs and this actually gave me the best result. Probably because the fan would be sucking in the hot air from my GTX 275 in an intake config.


----------



## Stilllife

Morning. Long time reader, finally have a reason to register and post on this great forum.

Last night I put together my shiney new HAF X / Intel i7 950 pc with a h70 cooler. Its a lovely peice of kit and hopefully i will find time to read through 1400 !!! pages of info to find out what I need, but thought I would post here to see if anyone has any immediate pointers to one 'issue' I have.

The fans. I used the connector that came with the unit to connect to cpu_fan (1) on the motherboard, but now reading up this morning I can see that I can actually use the slow down cables that came with the h70 into the joiner the then cpu_fan connector, I was worried I needed to put that on each fan and then put each on their own cpu_fan pins on the motherboard.

All I did last night was boot up to see all was working so I have no test info for you guys yet other than it works, Bios reports CPU temp at 36 C and the fans are running at 1890 rpm. (it shows the fans as one unit, which is right seeing they are on the same power connector)

H70 has the two wires (one from the joined fans and one from the 'fan' on the unit). Rad fans are on cpu_fan (1) and the encase fan is on cpu_fan (2) due to wire length and board layout.

Have I connected the fans correctly as well as can you recommend a replacement fan for the h70. Reading up it seems the Gentle Typhoon 120mm is the way to go. Am I right in thinking I need something round the 1800rpm (future proofing for OC'ing I guess) and 120mm?

I still have some reading to do (well, a lot) but I need to slow these down for now as I am running the cpu at stock speed (no need to OC right now) and would like to cut down the noise.

I look forward reasearching my gear further (mostly from this site as it seems to have almost everything) and getting the set 100%. I must say, the HAF X box, omg, this is the neatest cabling I have every had in my 19 years of building pcs... Will post pics on the weekend of the layout.

I now have a picture of my motherboard schematic. The red circle is are the Fans (which i now see I may have put on wrong pins - but it was a cable length issue - but with the slow down cables I should be able to switch it around with cpu fan), the blue is the cpu fan connect.








[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianAngel237* 
I just installed my H50 and overall I am disappointed by my temps. I know there is supposed to be a curing period but I wanted to check base with you guys to see if you thought I should be getting something better.

First of all, what is the code for creating an embedded image?

My temps are 38C core 0, 36C core 1, 41C core 2, and 31C core 3. With my air cooling setup I was getting slightly cooler temps, more like 35C, 34C, 41C, and 28C.

Under load I get roughly 64C max core during a short run, I expect it would get much hotter if I left it running.

I have it in push config exhaust since I tried all other configs and this actually gave me the best result. Probably because the fan would be sucking in the hot air from my GTX 275 in an intake config.

That seems like a pretty decent temp to me for your chip since your just running a single fan on your H50. If your just using the stock TIM that came with the H50 the cure time is basically zero(start it up and get to full temps once or twice and I would call it good.)

The majority of the people here that have their radiators at the back of their case do exhaust because it keeps the normal airflow cases where designed for to begin with and thus give you lower temps and keeps everything else cooled properly in your case.


----------



## GuardianAngel237

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
That seems like a pretty decent temp to me for your chip since your just running a single fan on your H50. If your just using the stock TIM that came with the H50 the cure time is basically zero(start it up and get to full temps once or twice and I would call it good.)

The majority of the people here that have their radiators at the back of their case do exhaust because it keeps the normal airflow cases where designed for to begin with and thus give you lower temps and keeps everything else cooled properly in your case.

I had to apply my own thermal paste because the stock stuff didn't seem to be working.

Is there anything I can do to bring down load temps or is this really the best I can get from this cooler? If it is, I am seriously contemplating returning it to amazon for my money back and paying the extra money for the Rasa kit.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianAngel237* 
I had to apply my own thermal paste because the stock stuff didn't seem to be working.

Is there anything I can do to bring down load temps or is this really the best I can get from this cooler? If it is, I am seriously contemplating returning it to amazon for my money back and paying the extra money for the Rasa kit.

You can definitely do a lot better with this cooler.

What TIM did you use? Have you already passed the proper cure time for it?

What fan are you using with the H50?

Does the back of your computer have a grate/covering where you have the H50 mounted?

If your TIM has a cure time(200 hours+- is typical of many) then just waiting for that can improve temps a few C.

The stock fan is really piss poor for the H50 buying two matched fans running around 2000rpm is optimal and can lower your temperature drastically over using just the single stock fan. Even just adding one more fan with the stock fan can decrease temps some.

Cutting out or removing the cover/grate/netting/whatever is covering where you have the H50 radiator and fan mounted can lower the temps even further not to mention that a lot of people complain about a whining noise because of the air passing through. One person a few pages back now just had a finger guard/cover over one of his fans on the inside of his computer and removed it after advice from here and he lowered his temps by 3C.


----------



## xstasy

Added a DIY shroud to the push fan.


----------



## alancsalt

Bought it because temps with stock cooler didn't look good. Then overclocked to 4.2GHz. Prime showed 90C under 100% load.









Ordered Ultra Kaze 3000, fitted 25mm shroud, and reseated pump. Prime95, 100% load: 80C









Disabled hyper-threading. Prime 100% load: 66C









3dMark06 went from 28000 to 27500. That is a 2% drop. I can live with that better than 80 to 90C temps.

The fan on the NB? Without airflow spill from the stock Intel heatsink fan it got hot: up to 85C sometimes, so gave it its own fan.

I've only read the first 240 posts. Sorry. Slow reader


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alancsalt* 









Bought it because temps with stock cooler didn't look good. Then overclocked to 4.2GHz. Prime showed 90C under 100% load.









Ordered Ultra Kaze 3000, fitted 25mm shroud, and reseated pump. Prime95, 100% load: 80C









Disabled hyper-threading. Prime 100% load: 66C









3dMark06 went from 28000 to 27500. That is a 2% drop. I can live with that better than 80 to 90C temps.

The fan on the NB? Without airflow spill from the stock Intel heatsink fan it got hot: up to 85C sometimes, so gave it its own fan.

I've only read the first 240 posts. Sorry. Slow reader









What's your IOH voltage set to? Your NB temps are very high. I have the UD4P board and my NB stays around 40-50C

What's your case cooling like?


----------



## alancsalt

IOH Core = 1.18v
With the little fan NB is now 40 to 50C under load. Glad that's normal then.
Two 120mm fans in top exhausting, one corsair 50cfm and one coolermaster 33cfm. Standard front 120mm fan.
Side cover has been off while doing this, but has two 33cfm CoolerMaster fans.
Have spare Ultra Kaze - debating whether to put it in empty 5.25 bays at front or whether too noisy.

Tip for Australians: Couldn't get 6-32 (6 gauge, 32 threads per inch) here in my part of Oz till discovered our 240V wall sockets use them. The extended ones are 2.5" long. Also motherboard case mounting posts use this thread, and fit in a 7/32" hole, so combining them gave me my mounting for shroud and fan. (Drilled shroud holes out to 7/32) Two tall MB posts and a short one = 1" (25mm)


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Stilllife* 
Morning. Long time reader, finally have a reason to register and post on this great forum.


Your MB connections are fine. For fans I strongly recommend the Ultra Kaze 2,000 rpm. You'll get much better static pressure on that radiator than any GT or 25mm fan could give you. Definetly DO NOT buy the 3,000 rpm version as it is just way too loud. The 2,000 rpm version is the best balance between performance and noise. I'd say it's on par with the R4 fans noise wise but of course performs much better. Plug the pump directly to the PS and make sure that in you BIOS fans are set to manual or if you're worried about it simply plug your fans directly into your PS as well. Keep us posetd on your results please. Thanks.


----------



## MicahFett

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MorbEIn* 
Here's my temps and so on, **Apologies for wide screen, dual screen setup and im not the best person to edit photos... :$**

<snip>

and my H70 ^_^ Any suggestions on what i can change to further overclock my 955? ^_^

<snip>

Thanks!

Looking at a picture of your mobo online it appears that you have the pump hooked up to the CPU Fan header, which is fine. Also, by looking at your screenshot there it appears that your pump is being reported as the FANIN0 and the RPM is averaging right about 1400, which is right where it's supposed to be.

Edit: Note: While the program you are using to view your fan speed reports it as FANIN0, it will probably show up in your BIOS as CPU Fan.


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alancsalt* 
IOH Core = 1.18v
With the little fan NB is now 40 to 50C under load. Glad that's normal then.
Two 120mm fans in top exhausting, one corsair 50cfm and one coolermaster 33cfm. Standard front 120mm fan.
Side cover has been off while doing this, but has two 33cfm CoolerMaster fans.
Have spare Ultra Kaze - debating whether to put it in empty 5.25 bays at front or whether too noisy.

Tip for Australians: Couldn't get 6-32 (6 gauge, 32 threads per inch) here in my part of Oz till discovered our 240V wall sockets use them. The extended ones are 2.5" long. Also motherboard case mounting posts use this thread, and fit in a 7/32" hole, so combining them gave me my mounting for shroud and fan. (Drilled shroud holes out to 7/32) Two tall MB posts and a short one = 1" (25mm)

You need more intake. That's why the NB was so hot IMO. You essentially have 4 exhaust fans, 2 on your H70, and 2 on your top exhaust. With only 1 intake in the front of the case (if I understood what your wrote correctly).

First off that's putting a lot of pull pressure on your only intake fan and will probably wear out the bearing in it sooner than expected. Second, your case probably has negative pressure meaning it will be pulling air from ever nook and cranny in your case that it can, causing dust and debris to be pulled in too, resulting in a dirtier case case over time.

Just my thoughts









Did I read correctly that your side cover has 2 intake fans on it as well? If so, if that cover was off when you did your testing, you probably had a lot of dead air sitting around your motherboard, thus the high temps.


----------



## Stilllife

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
Your MB connections are fine. For fans I strongly recommend the Ultra Kaze 2,000 rpm. You'll get much better static pressure on that radiator than any GT or 25mm fan could give you. Definetly DO NOT buy the 3,000 rpm version as it is just way too loud. The 2,000 rpm version is the best balance between performance and noise. I'd say it's on par with the R4 fans noise wise but of course performs much better. Plug the pump directly to the PS and make sure that in you BIOS fans are set to manual or if you're worried about it simply plug your fans directly into your PS as well. Keep us posetd on your results please. Thanks.


Garanthor - thank you for the feedback. As this is all new to me I welcome all help in finding the right solution.

Looking at noise, it seems the GT's (even at full speed) is lower than the Kaze, but as you say the Ultra Kaze seems to offer up better cooling, but would I need to make that sacrifice - noise vs incremental added cooling when, should the GT 1850's not offer up a good enough solution in cooling. Do I not need to bear in mind the fans on my HAF X helping to keep the airflow going (they are behemoth fans on the box)?


----------



## alancsalt

Yes, quite true Shapiror06. Still sorting it out. "Under development" it is. Initially had it blowing into case as Corsair suggested, hence exhaust fans on top. Only turned it around to exhaust yesterday. CPU temps were same under load either way. NB was still a dead spot. With all the mesh sections on this case, not much pressurising







.


----------



## antipesto93

Added a shroud to the h50, Improved temps a few c








its just a gutted 120mm fan


















old pic without shroud


----------



## _s3v3n_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mark_K* 
LOL you guys are killing me!

once you get your fans and shroud go to any good hardware staore and you will find the screws you need and you can fit them right there to be exact.

Stop over teching this......


Home Depot has everything you need when it comes to this type of screw. I found all the lengths under this size from the nearest HD in my area. 99cents for an 8-piece pack.


----------



## ebolamonkey3

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mark_K* 
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24275

Do they sell any black ones without LEDs?

Also, can somebody update the first page with H70 info as well??


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Stilllife* 
Garanthor - thank you for the feedback. As this is all new to me I welcome all help in finding the right solution.

Looking at noise, it seems the GT's (even at full speed) is lower than the Kaze, but as you say the Ultra Kaze seems to offer up better cooling, but would I need to make that sacrifice - noise vs incremental added cooling when, should the GT 1850's not offer up a good enough solution in cooling. Do I not need to bear in mind the fans on my HAF X helping to keep the airflow going (they are behemoth fans on the box)?

You has said you wanted some "future-proofing" for overclocking purposes. If that is the case then you want the 2,000 rpm Ultra Kaze. The GTs will do fine for now but if we want to get into overclocking in the future you'll regret not getting the Ultra Kaze. A 38mm fan will give you much better static pressure which the H70 really needs vs a 25 mm fan.


----------



## LayneRuley

Does anyone have the intel brackets for the h50 that i can have?
I was trying to order one from corsair but its not in stock and hasnt been for like, 3000 years.
I dont mind paying for shipping.


----------



## grillinman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LayneRuley* 
Does anyone have the intel brackets for the h50 that i can have?
I was trying to order one from corsair but its not in stock and hasnt been for like, 3000 years.
I dont mind paying for shipping.

Did you call Corsair? They are known to be especially cooperative and generous in these types of situations.

I bet if you call and tell them the story they will just send you one.


----------



## LayneRuley

I did, and they said they would notify me when they cam into stockk within the next 48 hours and that was a week ago.....
Imma try calling them agian...


----------



## miahallen

My H70 rview just went live:
http://www.techreaction.net/2010/10/...or-the-masses/


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *miahallen* 
My H70 rview just went live:
http://www.techreaction.net/2010/10/...or-the-masses/

sorry to barge in your review.. but here is my opinion

Great you wrote a review(its very nicely done), but you need to do some comparison with other coolers - as of what I read you only compared it to the stock intel cooler

I said comparison because in the very 1st page you ended with this:

Quote:

Corsair Hydro Series Water Cooling Kits
Last year, Corsair made a huge splash in the enthusiast community with the introduction of the H50 all in one water cooling solution. Dozens of review around the web confirmed it had the performance to challenge the top air cooling systems on the market, and the price was also competitive. But many enthusiasts (myself included) turned our noses up at the H50. What's the point of a water cooling solution that doesn't undercut the price or outperform the air coolers on the market? The problem as I saw it was that Corsair was targeting a market saturated with excellent alternatives. Was it good, yes&#8230;it just wasn't the best.

Luckily for me and many other enthusiasts, Corsair was listening to the criticism, and they also seem to have identified what I mentioned earlier, the price gap. Why not make something that does top all of the air cooling solutions, for a small price premium? Hence, the Corsair H70 was born! This was built to dominate all air coolers on the market without becoming excessively expensive. Did they succeed in their apparent goals? Based on most of the reviews filtering into review sites around the web, I'd say they did. But I wanted to find out for myself, and Corsair obliged me with a sample to test for your reading pleasure.
Reading that sorta makes the reader think you are going to do comparisons with all the best air coolings out there.. since you clearly said this "_but I wanted to find out for my self_" - it sounds like you wanted to prove if those reviews were accurate on their testings... but since you didn't do any comparison.. how did you figure it out for your self.. if its not compared to any other of the best air coolers out there on your review.

I am not writing this of saying my cooler or air cooling is better... nothing like that... is that if I read you wanting to find out for your self.. if other reviews were accurate(that is what it sounds like to me reading that line)... you should have at least did comparison with the best air coolers on your same tests/hardware - people read reviews lately to compare them with other top market coolers nowadays... so it would be great to update your review doing comparison with most of the best air coolers out there.

But your reviews does exactly what you named the title of it *Water cooling for the masses" so I probably wrote here... something that wasn't related to the whole review if it does follow the title of it. =P my bad


----------



## dracotonisamond

i ordered a H70 today to hold me over for real water cooling.

or i could just dedicate a 120 and a 360 just to GPU's and keep using the H70.









my old H50 is going to live out its life in ThunderHead.


----------



## LayneRuley

OMG can someone please pm me about maybe giving me there own intel bracket for the h50? i dont mind paying shipping............


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LayneRuley* 
OMG can someone please pm me about maybe giving me there own intel bracket for the h50? i dont mind paying shipping............

I can send you mines of my old H50 since OBVIOUSLY I don't need the intel brackets... PM me your address I'll try to ship them tomorrow hopefully, don't forget to include your name


----------



## LayneRuley

omg i love you. Thanks. ill send you a PM.


----------



## LayneRuley

Please add me to the club.
Its not a stock h50 but it is one..........

btw ignore the weird animal crap stickers on the wall. im in my brothers room as wee speak because of house renovations.


----------



## M1nUrThr3t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LayneRuley*


Please add me to the club.
Its not a stock h50 but it is one..........

btw ignore the weird animal crap stickers on the wall. im in my brothers room as wee speak because of house renovations.


no offense, but eeeeewwwwwwww!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## LayneRuley

What is ewww? The stickers? on the Wall? Yeah its so freakin stupid....


----------



## M1nUrThr3t

color and very un........sanitary pc setup LOL


----------



## Offender_Mullet

H70 owner here. I threw 2 CoolerMaster 120mm Blade Master fans on. Much better air pressure over the stock ones.


----------



## GuardianAngel237

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


You can definitely do a lot better with this cooler.

What TIM did you use? Have you already passed the proper cure time for it?

What fan are you using with the H50?

Does the back of your computer have a grate/covering where you have the H50 mounted?

If your TIM has a cure time(200 hours+- is typical of many) then just waiting for that can improve temps a few C.

The stock fan is really piss poor for the H50 buying two matched fans running around 2000rpm is optimal and can lower your temperature drastically over using just the single stock fan. Even just adding one more fan with the stock fan can decrease temps some.

Cutting out or removing the cover/grate/netting/whatever is covering where you have the H50 radiator and fan mounted can lower the temps even further not to mention that a lot of people complain about a whining noise because of the air passing through. One person a few pages back now just had a finger guard/cover over one of his fans on the inside of his computer and removed it after advice from here and he lowered his temps by 3C.


Alright, I went out and bought a pair of Thermaltake 2000rpm fans to see if it gave me any actual improvement. Their generic, I don't know what model they are, I got them from Radioshack (Almost spelled radiowhack there for a second, that would have been funny).

I went from overheating to the same temps as I had with my air cooler. I was wrong with my first post, I was actually overheating.

I am using ZM-STG1 from Zalman. I also have some arctic silver around if you all think it is better.

Also, my computer is OC'ed to 3.9ghz and it is a 45nm Core 2 Quad, max rated temp is 70C.


----------



## LayneRuley

Quote:



Originally Posted by *M1nUrThr3t*


color and very un........sanitary pc setup LOL


Wow ok First of all-Color=Opinion
Second The reason its not organized and with the side panel and all nice and tidey up because ITS NOT DONE YET.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianAngel237*


Alright, I went out and bought a pair of Thermaltake 2000rpm fans to see if it gave me any actual improvement. Their generic, I don't know what model they are, I got them from Radioshack (Almost spelled radiowhack there for a second, that would have been funny).

I went from overheating to the same temps as I had with my air cooler. I was wrong with my first post, I was actually overheating.

I am using ZM-STG1 from Zalman. I also have some arctic silver around if you all think it is better.

Also, my computer is OC'ed to 3.9ghz and it is a 45nm Core 2 Quad, max rated temp is 70C.


Ya if you bought some decent fans then you would have better temps for sure. RadioShaft would have to pay me to take fans from them. They are probably knockoffs knowing them either that or the lowest/cheapest fans they can get marked up 200%.

AS5 is my old standby I don't have any experience with ZM-STG1 from Zalman so no idea on it's cure time or how good it is compared to AS5.


----------



## GuardianAngel237

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Ya if you bought some decent fans then you would have better temps for sure. RadioShaft would have to pay me to take fans from them. They are probably knockoffs knowing them either that or the lowest/cheapest fans they can get marked up 200%.

AS5 is my old standby I don't have any experience with ZM-STG1 from Zalman so no idea on it's cure time or how good it is compared to AS5.


I was thinking about returning them anyways. What do you recommend? My temps as of right now are not at all satisfactory. I need to know if I should return my H50 and get an H70 and return my fans for better ones.


----------



## adamlau

Consider this my entry into the club







...


----------



## wolfy619

does any one if a h70 fits in a NZXT Beta Evo with push and pull fans,i know h50 fits in the Beta Evo, but seeing the thickness of the rad on the h70 seems to be bothering me.


----------



## Stilllife

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


You has said you wanted some "future-proofing" for overclocking purposes. If that is the case then you want the 2,000 rpm Ultra Kaze. The GTs will do fine for now but if we want to get into overclocking in the future you'll regret not getting the Ultra Kaze. A 38mm fan will give you much better static pressure which the H70 really needs vs a 25 mm fan.


Are they still 'as effective' if I use the voltage stepdown to 7v? Do I need to run them (this is at cpu stock speed for now) at 12V?

Well no matter. Seems I can't buy this in the UK any more. One seller has it but charging silly prices for the fan. Reading up it seems discontinued, can you (or anyone else) recommend an alternative fan?


----------



## dude120

For anyone here who added shrouds to their h50/h70 how much did it decrease temps? My idles temps went down around ~3c on one of my h50's so I was curious how many other people experienced a difference. This did not seem to much affect my load temps though.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianAngel237*


I was thinking about returning them anyways. What do you recommend? My temps as of right now are not at all satisfactory. I need to know if I should return my H50 and get an H70 and return my fans for better ones.


It all depends if you care about the noise of the fans or not. If you just want cooling and don't care about noise then Scythe DFS123812-3000 ULTRA KAZE the 3k rpm will give you lots of headroom and allow you to undervolt it or use a fan controller to slow it down once your temps are under control. If you don't want the fans to be loud and care about the noise then Scythe GentleTyphoon D1225C12B5AP-15 is the fans I would recommend they are 1850rpm and very quiet compare to any fan that puts out as much CFM/Static pressure as they do.


----------



## Stilllife

On the topic of alternative fans. How about this? Noctua-NF-P12-Vortex as a replacment for the H70 unit - as I can't seem to find the Scythe Ultra Kaze 2000rpm in the UK (without paying way over the odds) ?


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Stilllife*


On the topic of alternative fans. How about this? Noctua-NF-P12-Vortex as a replacment for the H70 unit - as I can't seem to find the Scythe Ultra Kaze 2000rpm in the UK (without paying way over the odds) ?


He didn't test the UK 2k but here are some popular fans and how they perform.

http://www.overclock.net/10968801-post36.html

I've played with the UK 2k though and there was virtually no improvement over R4 or GT AP-15, so I chose the quieter route. Also my samples had an annoying click.


----------



## Stilllife

Thank you squire.. I will look at this tonight and see what they sound like...


----------



## dockiks

What RPM's do you guys with GT-15's get? Mine average 1760. I know they're rated for 1850 RPM. OTOH, my H70 pump averages 1390 RPM. Both the pump and the fans are hooked up to the PSU. I only hooked up the 3rd wires to the MB headers for RPM sensing.

Anybody with similar observations?


----------



## Stilllife

Off to another great start - seems the Cooler Master R4 (model reviewed on this site - that particular model - there are other R4's but they seem more geared to LED's rather than big air flow) are not available in the UK either. I think the cosmos is trying to point me to the Gentle Tornado !!.. will keep looking though.


----------



## Dunkler

I would like to join the club!


----------



## Mongol

Are Coolermaster R4's really that bad as for push/pull?
I thought the 3.05mm H20 static pressure would be sufficient enough.

I know it's not as important as load, but my idle temps avg. 4 degrees above ambient. (that's at stock clocks btw)

They are a little noisy at full spin.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Stilllife* 
Off to another great start - seems the Cooler Master R4 (model reviewed on this site - that particular model - there are other R4's but they seem more geared to LED's rather than big air flow) are not available in the UK either. I think the cosmos is trying to point me to the Gentle Tornado !!.. will keep looking though.

If they are R4s (R4 blades and number of blades) and spin at 2000rpm they are all the same. The specs changed along with the part number because they were not meeting spec, so far as I can tell (Coolermaster was a little too optimistic with their specs).

Edit: I've seen them available with and without LEDs.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *********** 
Are Coolermaster R4's really that bad as for push/pull?
I thought the 3.05mm H20 static pressure would be sufficient enough.

I know it's not as important as load, but my idle temps avg. 4 degrees above ambient. (that's at stock clocks btw)

They are a little noisy at full spin.

I only speak for myself I would never use a R4 for anything unless they where free. Have had many over the years and they either have defects right away that make them click or make weird noises, not work at all or they soon develop problems after not much use. Also, they WAY overstate their specifications and fudge some of them. They list something like 19db for their noise but, that is when they are at the lowest voltage to make them run. They list 88CFM when they don't come close to that even if you over-volt them.

They are decent fans if you can't find anything better but nothing I would stake the life of my CPU on.


----------



## GuardianAngel237

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
It all depends if you care about the noise of the fans or not. If you just want cooling and don't care about noise then Scythe DFS123812-3000 ULTRA KAZE the 3k rpm will give you lots of headroom and allow you to undervolt it or use a fan controller to slow it down once your temps are under control. If you don't want the fans to be loud and care about the noise then Scythe GentleTyphoon D1225C12B5AP-15 is the fans I would recommend they are 1850rpm and very quiet compare to any fan that puts out as much CFM/Static pressure as they do.

Would one Ultra Kaze be good enough in a push config with a shroud? I don't know if my case has enough room for it to be honest.

I'll take some pictures to show you what I mean.


----------



## M1nUrThr3t

should be.
I am using a silverstone in a push config with no shroud and get nice cooling.
BTW i have a SILVERSTONE FM122


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GuardianAngel237* 
Would one Ultra Kaze be good enough in a push config with a shroud? I don't know if my case has enough room for it to be honest.

I'll take some pictures to show you what I mean.

I just looked up that case to see some pictures of what it looks like I would mount the H50 in the front of the case as intake in the 5 1/4 bays as long as you don't have them already filled that would allow you to have 2 fans and shrouds if you wanted.


----------



## GuardianAngel237

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
I just looked up that case to see some pictures of what it looks like I would mount the H50 in the front of the case as intake in the 5 1/4 bays as long as you don't have them already filled that would allow you to have 2 fans and shrouds if you wanted.

i have two TB HDDs there. What do you suggest I do with them?


----------



## M1nUrThr3t

you cant mount them lower?


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wolfy619* 
does any one if a h70 fits in a NZXT Beta Evo with push and pull fans,i know h50 fits in the Beta Evo, but seeing the thickness of the rad on the h70 seems to be bothering me.

If you can notice the H70 cpu pump.. is allot less thin compared to the H50... so it should fit even if the Rad is thicker(they made the new pump thin exactly for that purpose so being the rad thicker... it could pass over the new pump without touching it)

ofcourse that is my assumption... but you can give it a try getting th H70, if anything... mount the rad somewhere else... example... the 5.25 front bay using zip-ties.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dunkler* 
I would like to join the club!










looks very cool

If you want to improve a bit the setup.... add shrouds(25mm or 38mm your choice) between the 2 fans(fan>shroud>rad>shroud>fan) - it will improve the temps.. and as well it will lower a bit more the stretching of the *pump tubes

You have to sign up your self... read the very 1st post of the thread


----------



## M1nUrThr3t

yes i def agree there, add shrouds that stretch looks like it hurts


----------



## GuardianAngel237

It's no good, my temps aren't improving enough and I really don't want to start buying fans and thermal paste and cutting apart my case. I don't have the tools for one.

I am looking at just getting the HAF 932 case and sticking with my current air cooler. I have some books to sell and an old heatsink as well as some headphones.

I would return my H50 for my money back.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianAngel237*


It's no good, my temps aren't improving enough and I really don't want to start buying fans and thermal paste and cutting apart my case. I don't have the tools for one.

I am looking at just getting the HAF 932 case and sticking with my current air cooler. I have some books to sell and an old heatsink as well as some headphones.

I would return my H50 for my money back.


All up to you I have only have a mid tower case I have two standard 3.5" drives one 2.5" SSD drive a card reader/usb/eSata and a DVD burner in my computer and still manage to have the H50 setup and another fan in front of my computer......so not like just having two HDDs is stopping you from putting the H50 in front.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GuardianAngel237*


It's no good, my temps aren't improving enough and I really don't want to start buying fans and thermal paste and cutting apart my case. I don't have the tools for one.

I am looking at just getting the HAF 932 case and sticking with my current air cooler. I have some books to sell and an old heatsink as well as some headphones.

I would return my H50 for my money back.


I'm looking at your case... is this it?









Where exactly do you have your 2 TB setup at(I'd imagine in the lower bay HD area)?
I think he meant to mount the H50 at the FRONT TOP 5.25 bay area, that is if you don't have it filled up... as for me I only have 1 optical drive up there.. so if yours is like that then mount the H50 right there with zip-ties - you won't need to cut anything - just buy 2 good fans(the ultrakaze u meantioned earlier) & make 2 shrouds(any 120mm cheap fan take/pull/rip out the center fans from them) and thats it... set it as *Intake fan<shroud<rad<shroud<fan on the front bay top area


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Wow. CoreTemp is reading 16Â°C-17Â°C on all cores while my 1090T is idle. I have it setup as an exhaust (while Corsair for w/e reason recommends an intake method). Me likey.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Offender_Mullet*


Wow. CoreTemp is reading 16Â°C-17Â°C on all cores while my 1090T is idle. I have it setup as an exhaust (while Corsair for w/e reason recommends an intake method). Me likey.










that's just an error of temp readings on 6 cores cpu's on some motherboards.. reality for 6 cores is 10c+

so in reality your cpu temp is 26-27c

Unless your ambient room temps are in the 10c's, if its higher than your current cpu temps - Then you will know for sure the cpu readings are wrong - There is no way to get your cpu colder than your room ambients... unless you are running liquid nitrogen, dry ice, refrigerator cooling your computer, ... etc ... on which hopefully you are not









So if your room ambients is in the low 10's then that is really cool


----------



## miahallen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


sorry to barge in your review.. but here is my opinion

Great you wrote a review(its very nicely done), but you need to do some comparison with other coolers - as of what I read you only compared it to the stock intel cooler

I said comparison because in the very 1st page you ended with this:

Reading that sorta makes the reader think you are going to do comparisons with all the best air coolings out there.. since you clearly said this "_but I wanted to find out for my self_" - it sounds like you wanted to prove if those reviews were accurate on their testings... but since you didn't do any comparison.. how did you figure it out for your self.. if its not compared to any other of the best air coolers out there on your review.

I am not writing this of saying my cooler or air cooling is better... nothing like that... is that if I read you wanting to find out for your self.. if other reviews were accurate(that is what it sounds like to me reading that line)... you should have at least did comparison with the best air coolers on your same tests/hardware - people read reviews lately to compare them with other top market coolers nowadays... so it would be great to update your review doing comparison with most of the best air coolers out there.

But your reviews does exactly what you named the title of it *Water cooling for the masses" so I probably wrote here... something that wasn't related to the whole review if it does follow the title of it. =P my bad


Hey sendblink....thanks for your comments and I agree with you 100%. Actually, I addressed this briefly on page 4 of the review....but here is a little more detail on the matter...

TechREACTION is still relatively new. But since we want to be regarded as trustworthy and reliable. We've decided that from this point forward ALL heatsink testing from this point forward will strickly adhere to this new methodology. That way we'll be able to compare and contrast all heatsinks from this point forward against each other with minimal variance. All of the specifics are not yet public, but keep a lookout, I'll be blogging about them soon. It's going to be similar to Skinnee's methodology









*So, although I only compared to the stock Intel HSF, and my custom water cooling loop...as we continue to test more heatsinks in the future we'll be able to compare the results side by side.







*

This is also the reason why I did not award the cooler with our TechREACTION award yet as it did not complete all testing according to our methodology...we're already planning a follow up to finish the testing, and we'll give an award to the cooler based on its overall performance at that time.









Again, thanks for your comments.


----------



## dockiks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Offender_Mullet*


Wow. CoreTemp is reading 16Â°C-17Â°C on all cores while my 1090T is idle. I have it setup as an exhaust (while Corsair for w/e reason recommends an intake method). Me likey.











Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


that's just an error of temp readings on 6 cores cpu's on some motherboards.. reality for 6 cores is 10c+

so in reality your cpu temp is 26-27c


This. Right now Core Temps says 21C for me. CPUID Hardware Monitor Pro also says this for the cores too. But in the same program, TMPIN1 says 30C, which is the correct reading. A lot of people with the 1090T (including me previously) have been uber proud of their low temps in Core temp not knowing it isn't the correct one


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Ahhhhh.







Thanks guys.


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dockiks*


This. Right now Core Temps says 21C for me. CPUID Hardware Monitor Pro also says this for the cores too. But in the same program, TMPIN1 says 30C, which is the correct reading. A lot of people with the 1090T (including me previously) have been uber proud of their low temps in Core temp not knowing it isn't the correct one


Exactly. At first I was like, WOW, but then I realized that this is a bug. I basically add 13c to be safe and have never gone over 47c (incl the 13c) on load.


----------



## Marc-Olivier Beaudoin

Well I went to buy an SSD crucial sata III 60GB but they didn't have one and the store I used to buy parts online just closed and I now have to wait for money to get on paypal for the SSD/watter cooling I was going to do so I went for a little upgrade on my airflow-CPU cooler-and looks of my case until a month or 2







and some open air headphone cause I can't use my g35 anymore .

SO PUT ME ON THAT LIST









edit : and no the air penetrator are not for replacing the corsair fan on rad ( even if I might try them to see if they are any good . But for placing in my graphic card ''shroud'' on the HAF X and the second one where I will find it to be best


----------



## crash01

The "cage" where then i screws h70-wb, replace exactly in dimension my black bracket on mobo?

Or i could have problem with that capacitor (circled red)?


thx


----------



## xstasy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Marc-Olivier Beaudoin* 
Well I went to buy an SSD crucial sata III 60GB but they didn't have one and the store I used to buy parts online just closed and I now have to wait for money to get on paypal for the SSD/watter cooling I was going to do so I went for a little upgrade on my airflow-CPU cooler-and looks of my case until a month or 2







and some open air headphone cause I can't use my g35 anymore .

SO PUT ME ON THAT LIST









edit : and no the air penetrator are not for replacing the corsair fan on rad ( even if I might try them to see if they are any good . But for placing in my graphic card ''shroud'' on the HAF X and the second one where I will find it to be best









Don't bother trying the APs on the H70, those fans are not made for heatsinks.


----------



## Namwons

finally got a pic of inside of my sig rig so thought i would throw it up. Yate Loon HS on the rad and intake, 92mm Top Motor dual ballbearing fans on the sides. 3.9 x3 @50c (20-21c ambient). (third core cant handle 4ghz)


----------



## alancsalt

There's a deluxe with one, and that has the same "condensator", so i'd guess it fits:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...l#post10630013

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crash01* 
The "cage" where then i screws h70-wb, replace exactly in dimension my black bracket on mobo?

Or i could have problem with that condensator (circled red)?

thx


----------



## cmeeks

Hey, not sure if this has already been mentioned, I've been gone for a while. I saw the h70 for $84.99 at Fry's in Austin, TX today and it didn't look like a sale price either. Not sure what it's going for at other Fry's.

It looks pretty bad when it's sitting right next to the h50 still marked at $79.99


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cmeeks*


Hey, not sure if this has already been mentioned, I've been gone for a while. I saw the h70 for $84.99 at Fry's in Austin, TX today and it didn't look like a sale price either. Not sure what it's going for at other Fry's.

It looks pretty bad when it's sitting right next to the h50 still marked at $79.99


Well its a bargain... get it and sell it for over $100 on ebay lol
Nahh just kidding you wont make any profit like that

but sounds good the price


----------



## cjc75

Hey all...

I'm interested in maybe, experimenting with some better fans on my H50.

I'm currently using the Cooler Master R4 Series with Red LED's, two in a push/pull configuration with a pair of custom 25mm shrouds...

At the moment, I am running 3.9ghz. It seems to be running fairly stable, have not had any problems with Prime95...

However, my Temps run up pretty hot while under extreme load such as Prime95. Using Asus PC ProbeII, it reports my Temps running up to 64c; while Core Temp, HWMonitor and Everest report it going up to 70+.

Granting, most gaming won't stress my system as much as Prime95, and dispite those high Temps with Prime95, I'm not having problems, so I believe I have a good, reliable and stable Overclock.

BUT, I still want to try to push my Temps down a bit more, and I am wondering if a pair of different Fans might make a difference?

Thing is, I'm finicky over the noise. My Cooler Master R4's are not very noisy, though they are audible even with my TV on, next to me. If they were louder, it probably would bug me but I am rather comfortable with them as they are...

So I am wondering, should I stick with using them?

Or is there a better Fan out there that I could experiment with that might lower my Temps a little bit?

I don't want a jet engine here running all night, as I have to sleep, 5 feet from my computer, after all... and it stays on all night.

With a pair of Scythe GT AP-15's be any better?


----------



## Marc-Olivier Beaudoin

finally installed the H70







.

after finding the HAF X gpu shroud isn't meant for card with the pci-e connector at the end but rather at the side so my silverstone fan won't fit nowhere in the case. I finally gave up on the idea of fitting them somewhere with zip tie in the case for the day . Might keep them when I will go for a complete watter loop or for another case or do a giveaway







. But they were pretty expensive so I will most likely find a way to mount them in the case one way or another .

dropped my temps by about 4-6degree C compared to my u12p on full load so I'm not all that impressed maybe i didn't seated the block correctly or I have to much/not enough mounting pressure.

Are the temps right at the end ?


----------



## Namwons

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cjc75*


Hey all...

I'm interested in maybe, experimenting with some better fans on my H50.

I'm currently using the Cooler Master R4 Series with Red LED's, two in a push/pull configuration with a pair of custom 25mm shrouds...

At the moment, I am running 3.9ghz. It seems to be running fairly stable, have not had any problems with Prime95...

However, my Temps run up pretty hot while under extreme load such as Prime95. Using Asus PC ProbeII, it reports my Temps running up to 64c; while Core Temp, HWMonitor and Everest report it going up to 70+.

Granting, most gaming won't stress my system as much as Prime95, and dispite those high Temps with Prime95, I'm not having problems, so I believe I have a good, reliable and stable Overclock.

BUT, I still want to try to push my Temps down a bit more, and I am wondering if a pair of different Fans might make a difference?

Thing is, I'm finicky over the noise. My Cooler Master R4's are not very noisy, though they are audible even with my TV on, next to me. If they were louder, it probably would bug me but I am rather comfortable with them as they are...

So I am wondering, should I stick with using them?

Or is there a better Fan out there that I could experiment with that might lower my Temps a little bit?

I don't want a jet engine here running all night, as I have to sleep, 5 feet from my computer, after all... and it stays on all night.

With a pair of Scythe GT AP-15's be any better?


those temps seem really high. you should not go over 60c on any program let alone 70. i would reseat and reapply TIM first, and clean out the rad if its dusty. also the temp margin of the cores vs TPIN0 (socket) gets narrower as temps rise.

also AP-15's, although they have great performance/noise, with your set up, you will see only marginal temp improvement but alot of noise reduction


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cjc75*


Hey all...

I'm interested in maybe, experimenting with some better fans on my H50.

I'm currently using the Cooler Master R4 Series with Red LED's, two in a push/pull configuration with a pair of custom 25mm shrouds...

At the moment, I am running 3.9ghz. It seems to be running fairly stable, have not had any problems with Prime95...

However, my Temps run up pretty hot while under extreme load such as Prime95. Using Asus PC ProbeII, it reports my Temps running up to 64c; while Core Temp, HWMonitor and Everest report it going up to 70+.

Granting, most gaming won't stress my system as much as Prime95, and dispite those high Temps with Prime95, I'm not having problems, so I believe I have a good, reliable and stable Overclock.

BUT, I still want to try to push my Temps down a bit more, and I am wondering if a pair of different Fans might make a difference?

Thing is, I'm finicky over the noise. My Cooler Master R4's are not very noisy, though they are audible even with my TV on, next to me. If they were louder, it probably would bug me but I am rather comfortable with them as they are...

So I am wondering, should I stick with using them?

Or is there a better Fan out there that I could experiment with that might lower my Temps a little bit?

I don't want a jet engine here running all night, as I have to sleep, 5 feet from my computer, after all... and it stays on all night.

With a pair of Scythe GT AP-15's be any better?


Post the settings you have for your cpu... something must be too high.. because that is WAY TOO HOT for just 3.9ghz.. maybe its your room ambients.. since that also matters.. that can probably be the cause why its sow high your temps on max load

dammit.. my mistake again.. yes you were using the chip i mentioned... 955 C3.... so yeah 1.5v should be enough for 4ghz.. and it shoudl not reach that high in max load temps


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cjc75*


Hey all... 
I'm interested in maybe, experimenting with some better fans on my H50.
I'm currently using the Cooler Master R4 Series with Red LED's, two in a push/pull configuration with a pair of custom 25mm shrouds...
At the moment, I am running 3.9ghz. It seems to be running fairly stable, have not had any problems with Prime95... 
However, my Temps run up pretty hot while under extreme load such as Prime95. Using Asus PC ProbeII, it reports my Temps running up to 64c; while Core Temp, HWMonitor and Everest report it going up to 70+.
Granting, most gaming won't stress my system as much as Prime95, and dispite those high Temps with Prime95, I'm not having problems, so I believe I have a good, reliable and stable Overclock.
BUT, I still want to try to push my Temps down a bit more, and I am wondering if a pair of different Fans might make a difference?
Thing is, I'm finicky over the noise. My Cooler Master R4's are not very noisy, though they are audible even with my TV on, next to me. If they were louder, it probably would bug me but I am rather comfortable with them as they are... 
So I am wondering, should I stick with using them? 
Or is there a better Fan out there that I could experiment with that might lower my Temps a little bit? 
I don't want a jet engine here running all night, as I have to sleep, 5 feet from my computer, after all... and it stays on all night.
With a pair of Scythe GT AP-15's be any better?


First before even talking about different fans or setups you need to go back to stock speeds/vcore if your getting anything 63C or over. The max temps for your CPU is 55-63C I would never comfortable run my CPU over 55C though I do run my computer 24/7 and there are different things that I do to run my CPU at 100% at times so not a typical user.

GT AP-15's have a lot better static pressure than the R4's and not to mention they a lot quieter and reliable. They also don't fudge the specifications like R4's. Have you checked to see what your R4's are actually running for RPMs? They list specs at 2k but thanks to lousy build quality and QC your lucky if you they work let alone run at close to 2k.

Again the first thing to do is to go back to stock Vcore and speed and make sure your temps are stable at that.(no more than 55C) After you can get a temp lower than 55C at stock temps then and only then should you start working on OCing.


----------



## cjc75

My temps, only run over 60c... while running Prime95.

During Gaming, my Temps seem to only go up into the mid-high 50's; depending on the game and room temps...

At the moment, I am running Second Life, which I do more of; and my Temp is 41c; mind this is next to an open window with a cool room temp just under 70F; at least I am presuming my thermostat is in the Fahrenheit.

Originally, on stock settings... 3.2ghz with stock vCore; and average Room Temp between 70 - 75 (with window closed); I'm idling in the high 30's and under load, high 40's... Typically, thats with a Room Temp of around 75+.

So originally with 3.2ghz Stock; 38c idle, 45c under load; least thats how its been through my typically hot summer days with a room temp of 75+.

Mind, I have not blown out my Case for a few months so I'm pretty sure my Radiator needs a good cleaning with a can of compressed air.

Summer's over, my nights are getting cooler and eventually colder, so of course my Room Temps are going down and I can squeeze a slightly higher overclock.

At present.

3.9ghz.
FSB @ 205 + Multi @ x19.0
Vcore @1.5v 
CPU/NB @ 2468mhz with CPU/NB Voltage on "Auto" (testing this at higher speeds with more voltage results in bluescreens)

This also gives me a slight OC on my Ram to 1644.

While working on these tweaks earlier this afternoon, I had Prime95 running for an hour with no problems nor any errors... However, I deliberately STOPPED Prime95 at that point because when I came to look at it and saw the high temps, I decided I was not comfortable with them.

I tried testing with lower voltage on the Vcore, hoping to lower the Temps a little. I tested at 1.45 and 1.475 and 1.485; and each causes fatal errors with Prime95 after only about 5 - 10 minutes. But putting vCore at 1.5; and Prime95 runs fine.

I had a brief discussion thread going, discussing my Tweaks earlier this afternoon, over in the AMD CPU section.

I'm pretty satisfied with its stability at present; like I said, the high Temps only occur while running Prime95. Otherwise, I seldom see them over 55c while under load with Gaming. I just played BF2BC for a few hours earlier, and the highest I saw it go with this current OC Profile, was 55.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


First before even talking about different fans or setups you need to go back to stock speeds/vcore if your getting anything 63C or over. The max temps for your CPU is 55-63C I would never comfortable run my CPU over 55C though I do run my computer 24/7 and there are different things that I do to run my CPU at 100% at times so not a typical user.

GT AP-15's have a lot better static pressure than the R4's and not to mention they a lot quieter and reliable. They also don't fudge the specifications like R4's. Have you checked to see what your R4's are actually running for RPMs? They list specs at 2k but thanks to lousy build quality and QC your lucky if you they work let alone run at close to 2k.

Again the first thing to do is to go back to stock Vcore and speed and make sure your temps are stable at that.(no more than 55C) After you can get a temp lower than 55C at stock temps then and only then should you start working on OCing.


We are forgetting to suggest him to re-seat the H50

@ cjc75

Good you found the stability... but honestly Re-Seat yoru H50, i have much higher Ambient temps than you 90F and my 965 C3 at 4Ghz 1.5v I get much lower max load with the H50 same setup push/pull R4's shrouds(in the past)... my 965 its pretty much similar to your 955... and when here people are saying its too hot... its because we know what we are talking about - its for safety on your CPU

Hopefully a re-seat(apply new thermal paste) and a can of air pressure for clean up on the rad/fans etc.. will indeed lower down your temps

Another question... how is the case fans set up inside your case... maybe the ventilation inside your case its not playing that good with you


----------



## cjc75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


GT AP-15's have a lot better static pressure than the R4's and not to mention they a lot quieter and reliable. They also don't fudge the specifications like R4's. Have you checked to see what your R4's are actually running for RPMs? They list specs at 2k but thanks to lousy build quality and QC your lucky if you they work let alone run at close to 2k.


Yes I know Cooler Master skewed some of the specs on the R4's.

Mine are running at around 1850 - 1900rpm.

So far, I've had nothing but excellent quality out of them; but I know I can probably do better.


----------



## cjc75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


We are forgetting to suggest him to re-seat the H50


My H50 is secured down via its included AM3 mounting kit; it does have a a solid contact; I've had it running since April of this year without any problems.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cjc75*


My H50 is secured down via its included AM3 mounting kit; it does have a a solid contact; I've had it running since April of this year without any problems.


well don't re-seat it.. stay with your extremely way high temps
We are experienced users with or have had an H50... don't forget we use similar chips... and are simply trying to help you out.. if you don't want to take our suggestions as Help for improvement... so be it


----------



## cjc75

Also, due to my open window, it is much colder now in my room, compared with where the thermostat is down the hall; which reads about 66.

At present my Room is probably around 63.

Earlier, while I was doing my tweak testings with Prime95, I did not have the Window open, and it was much warmer outside; and my room temps were around 70 - 75.

My H50 is also mounted on the rear of my Case, running as Exhaust, in a push/pull configuration... as follows:

<<airflow<<Fan<<<shroud<<<case<<<Rad<<<shroud<<<Fa n

I find it works better for me this way as opposed to running the H50 as an Intake. My computer sits on the floor under my desk and there is not much cool air down there for it to pull in, as an intake. So this way, its sucking the cool air directly in through the front case fan, and venting out the rear as exhaust.

I plan, at some point, to add a second Front Case Fan, and install a duct setup between that fan, running directly into the H50's fans; to ensure that the H50 is gaurantee's that it gets no hotter air from the case interior.

While typing out this post, I closed my window because .. it was getting a little _too cold_, for my comfort; and since closing the window, my CPU Temp went from 41c up to 44c... mind this is also while running Second Life.

With nothing running, it seems to idle around 38c at 3.9ghz.


----------



## cjc75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


well don't re-seat it.. stay with your extremely way high temps
We are experienced users with or have had an H50... don't forget we use similar chips... and are simply trying to help you out.. if you don't want to take our suggestions as Help for improvement... so be it


I'll take a closer look at how its seated when I wake up tomorrow.

I will admit, though I believe it has a solid and reliable seating, a first time mounting is not always the perfect mounting; and I have not done anything with it since I first installed it back in April.

I will admit, now that i think about it, I was a little hasty in my mounting effort, and the stock TIM was probably smeared about due to the manner of how the pump has to be "twisted" into its locking bracket on the mount.

Back then, when I installed it, I came here seeking advice on its mounting and I was told that the stock TIM was pretty good and I wouldn't need to clean it off; and I was told that a little smearing from the twisting of the pump while locking it into its bracket, was "ok"...

Though, I am curious now as to what the current, general opinion is on the stock TIM that comes pre-applied on this pump?

Is it still sufficient for this type of overclocking, or should I clean it off and reply something better?


----------



## alancsalt

Shin Etsu is quite good quality.

The thing is to make sure the cooling block is centred under the clamping ring, each raised bit of the heatsink under a notch in the ring, and then doing it up evenly - not doing one screw right up, then another, etc, but doing each one up a little bit at a time until all screws are seated.


----------



## crash01

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


there's a deluxe with one, and that has the same "condensator", so i'd guess it fits:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...l#post10630013


thx!


----------



## bradtn

Hey guys just bought the h70 , I have the obsidian 800D case as well, I plan on replacing the fans for the h70 with these...http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/pa12hisp.html What do you think? I plan on hooking them up to a fan controller obviously, and then using the fans which came with the h70 as exhaust fans elsewhere in the case


----------



## reaper~

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bradtn*


Hey guys just bought the h70 , I have the obsidian 800D case as well, I plan on replacing the fans for the h70 with these...http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/pa12hisp.html What do you think? I plan on hooking them up to a fan controller obviously, and then using the fans which came with the h70 as exhaust fans elsewhere in the case


Panflos are great fans, can be a little loud especially when you put 2 together in a push/pull (I had a pair strapped to my Megahalems on another rig). I would suggest something like GentleTyphoon AP-15 if you can find them.

Anyway, welcome to the club.


----------



## bradtn

I have read about the typhoons everyone mentions them but do they really add to the performance of the h70 or just make less noise?


----------



## reaper~

^ Both. I believe the GT's CFMs are higher than those 2 stock fans that come with the H70, not to mention that it's also a lot quieter.


----------



## bradtn

Other posts I have read scattered across the internet indicate they perform about the same but less noise. I think ill still stick with panaflo on a controller


----------



## ez12a

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cjc75*


3.9ghz.
FSB @ 205 + Multi @ x19.0
Vcore @1.5v 
CPU/NB @ 2468mhz with CPU/NB Voltage on "Auto" (testing this at higher speeds with more voltage results in bluescreens)


Do you know exactly what voltage the Auto setting is? What voltage are you setting it at when you do it manually? I can get 2.4Ghz NB stable with at least 1.30V.

I've read Auto voltage for CPU at least is quite liberal with the voltage. You could probably do better by manually setting it and testing different combinations.

I'm running a C2 B50 at 3.7Ghz @1.45V at 57C under Linpack, which everyone can agree here is harder than P95. I can't see if i were to run 1.5V my temps would rise 10C.

edit: but you have an entirely different mobo, so tolerances could be different.


----------



## cjc75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ez12a*


Do you know exactly what voltage the Auto setting is? What voltage are you setting it at when you do it manually? I can get 2.4Ghz NB stable with at least 1.30V.

I've read Auto voltage for CPU at least is quite liberal with the voltage. You could probably do better by manually setting it and testing different combinations.


For my CPU/NB Voltage, I do not know what the AUTO is setting it at, my Motherboard BIOS does not list the 'current' voltage, it only lists the previous voltage that the system was previously running on before it booted.

CPUz does not list CPU/NB voltage, and I can't find it listed in Everest Ultimate. I have the Asus Turbo EVO software installed (which I never use) and it shows the CPU/NB at 1.35...

At present, when I reboot and look in the BIOS, is also lists that it was previously running on 1.350.

HOWEVER, if I, manually, go and type in and enter into the BIOS, any voltage in the range of 1.250 - 1.350; then all I get are bluescreens during the Windows boot process, and never even get to the Login. It just, bluescreens, and reboots the computer.

When I manually enter 1.350 then my Bios reports that this in the "red" and therefore is considered unsafe. Any voltage above 1.3, and my BIOS reports it is an unsafe voltage; however granted, what is and is not "unsafe" in the world of voltages is sort of open for individual interpretation, based on hardware...

ALSO.

I was mistaken about my Radiator Fans, they ARE currently running as Intake from the back, and venting out the top of the case, via the stock 140mm fan that is currently mounted there as exhaust. The interior R4 on the radiator, is directly under that top exhaust fan.

I may need to get a better fan mounted on the top as the exhaust fan. At present I am using the stock 140mm fan that came with my case and, when putting my hand over it, can't really feel a thing.

I also have a pair of R4's mounted on the side panel, blowing as intake. _One of them_, is blowing onto and into my video card which gets some awesome temps. I have a pic posted here somewhere of my 5850 running 950 Core on 1175 Mem clock with its fan I think only on 65% speed; running Furmark for half an hour and its temp never passes 64c.

_The second side mounted R4_, is near the CPU/Radiator area, and is helping to push the vented radiator air out through the top.

Lastly, I have the stock Case Fan which is mounted on the bottom front of the case. This fan is working as an Intake, also blowing air towards the video card.

At present, the system is sitting idle next to me, while I post on the adjacent system that I'm on now.

The H50 system is sitting idle, nothing open or running except for...

1. Asus PC Probe II which reports the CPU Temp to be idling at 38c.
2. Core Temp, which reports that the CPU Temp to be idling at 40c.

Under load, these two programs report temps that are 6 - 8 degrees different from each other.


----------



## Zenophobe

Ok so i've driven all over central florida just to find artic silver 5.. btw radio shack has it. this is how i have applied it








and my idle temps with the stock heatsink are 51-55 degrees celsius. What gives.. I guess i just have a very very bad chip... ambient is 26.6 celsius or so.


----------



## Sizomu

ADD ME!!!!.............. (_added Myself!!.. YEAH!_)
Before I make the pictures, I want to play around with the cables. SO... I own an H50 and Pics will come later.


----------



## cjc75

Ok I've reseated my H50 pump.

I've had it running for about an hour since I reseated, and there is no change in the Temps.

Mind, I still have not cleaned out the case or Rad with any compressed air yet, as I found my can of air is empty, so I need to go get some more.

I think, the main issue is that this machine is sitting under my desk; there is very minimal ventilation under there. Also, four feet away from it, on the other side of my chair, is my other machine (Black Sparrow in Sig) which is running on air rather then liquid, and venting out its rear. Also, under my desk is the subwoofer for my Logitech Z-5300e speaker system; as well as my APC 1000va Battery Backup. So it tends to be a little warmer, under my desk compared to the rest of my room.

Unfortunately, there really isn't anywhere else I can put main system (with the H50), without having to buy a bunch of extension cables.


----------



## cjc75

Oh, one more thing...

My other system, the Black Sparrow in my Sig.

This system is currently running a Phenom II x4 940; at 3.7ghz, on air with a Xigmatek Dark Knight cooler mounted to vent out the rear. It'a Vcore is currently set at 1.475v; however CPUz and Everest both read it as 1.5v.

That system, is currently idling at 44c according to Core Temp; which also reports that my Sig Rig on the H50, at 3.9ghz, is idling at 43c at present.

So I'm pretty sure its the ambient room temps, especially the temps under my desk; that are resulting in higher CPU temps.


----------



## Namwons

never go by the setting in bios, as thats all it is...a _setting_. go by cpuz or everest always as those are _readings_


----------



## cjc75

Reset the system back to stock settings; 3.2ghz with vcore at 1.350.

Currently idling at 32c.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cjc75* 
The H50 system is sitting idle, nothing open or running except for...

1. Asus PC Probe II which reports the CPU Temp to be idling at 38c.
2. Core Temp, which reports that the CPU Temp to be idling at 40c.

Under load, these two programs report temps that are 6 - 8 degrees different from each other.

If I do the same for my computer nothing running except the programs to read my temps with an ambient of 22C(~72F)(taken with a thermometer right in front of the computer) my idle temp is 24-26C.

I have my H50 setup as front intake with two shrouds and two Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-15 fans.

With prime95 running for 24 hours+ I got a max temp of 47C. I am running a little different CPU but same Vcore 1.5.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ez12a* 
Do you know exactly what voltage the Auto setting is? What voltage are you setting it at when you do it manually? I can get 2.4Ghz NB stable with at least 1.30V.

I've read Auto voltage for CPU at least is quite liberal with the voltage. You could probably do better by manually setting it and testing different combinations.

I'm running a C2 B50 at 3.7Ghz @1.45V at 57C under Linpack, which everyone can agree here is harder than P95. I can't see if i were to run 1.5V my temps would rise 10C.

edit: but you have an entirely different mobo, so tolerances could be different.

For us 955 C3 & 965 C3
NB at 2600 is 1.25v
=P

Either way his heating issues is not because of his cpu/nb settings, they are actually quite fine


----------



## Digidoc

Well... joined the Corsair H50 club an hour ago. The jury is still out for me on the H series though. I was using a Thermalright True Black 120 HSF before and believe it or not I was getting slightly lower temps using that than I am with the H50. It could be that the AS5 needs more time to cure though, but the HSF was two degrees Celsius cooler than the H50 at max load (40c vs 43c/43c with the H50).

It's definitely not a problem with the pump, radiator, or the seating of the water block/pump... a quick touch test of the radiator confirms that it's getting warm. Oh well... I'll give it a few days before I either see better temps (AS5 curing) or I mod the hell out of this thing to increase the thermal capacitance.









I'll give it this much, it's a little quieter than my old HSF.


----------



## teajayyy

Just picked up an H70 at Frys while it was on sale, count me in the club!


----------



## GuardianAngel237

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
I'm looking at your case... is this it?









Where exactly do you have your 2 TB setup at(I'd imagine in the lower bay HD area)?
I think he meant to mount the H50 at the FRONT TOP 5.25 bay area, that is if you don't have it filled up... as for me I only have 1 optical drive up there.. so if yours is like that then mount the H50 right there with zip-ties - you won't need to cut anything - just buy 2 good fans(the ultrakaze u meantioned earlier) & make 2 shrouds(any 120mm cheap fan take/pull/rip out the center fans from them) and thats it... set it as *Intake fan<shroud<rad<shroud<fan on the front bay top area

My drives are mounted at the top of the bottom area. I have two DVD drives in the top area. I couldn't fit the H50 there.


----------



## GuardianAngel237

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cjc75* 
Ok I've reseated my H50 pump.

I've had it running for about an hour since I reseated, and there is no change in the Temps.

Mind, I still have not cleaned out the case or Rad with any compressed air yet, as I found my can of air is empty, so I need to go get some more.

I think, the main issue is that this machine is sitting under my desk; there is very minimal ventilation under there. Also, four feet away from it, on the other side of my chair, is my other machine (Black Sparrow in Sig) which is running on air rather then liquid, and venting out its rear. Also, under my desk is the subwoofer for my Logitech Z-5300e speaker system; as well as my APC 1000va Battery Backup. So it tends to be a little warmer, under my desk compared to the rest of my room.

Unfortunately, there really isn't anywhere else I can put main system (with the H50), without having to buy a bunch of extension cables.

I moved my computer from under my desk to an area where the hot air that comes out of my case can rise unobstructed and ventilation was better. My temps dropped a good ~7C at idle from 35C being the lowest core temp to 26-28C being the lowest for the same core. Everything else dropped too. What had been the highest moving temp (one of my cores doesn't register a change until it is under load of some sort) went from 40C to 34C.

EDIT: My load temps also dropped. I had been overheating within six minutes of running the OCCT Linpack test (90% of free ram) and after moving the computer my highest load temp after an hour was 68C (Which was still high for my Q9550 @ 3.9ghz but better than overheating, Max rated temp is 70C).


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Is anyone else using the H70's fans in a push/pull exhaust? Corsair recommends them as push/pull intake. Just wondering if there are any benefits switching it to their recommendation.


----------



## teajayyy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Offender_Mullet* 
Is anyone else using the H70's fans in a push/pull exhaust? Corsair recommends them as push/pull intake. Just wondering if there are any benefits switching it to their recommendation.

Idk about doing intake because i havn't tried that yet, but im doing exhaust and so far my temps are 23c idle @ 1.5volts running 3.9 ghz, load never goes above 40c.


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Yeah it didn't really make much sense to me, as you'd be blowing hot air into your case so idk why they recommend that.


----------



## alancsalt

Two choices; blow case warmed air through the rad (exhaust) or blow rad warmed air into the case (inlet). The endless debate here is which is worse.

I thought of putting the rad outside of the case on a bracket with air blowing through it sideways. That would be ok 4 me, 'cause I don't cart my case around.

The other thought was a 90 degree 120mm storm pipe bend over the fan in the case ported to the side cover so I'm either sucking or blowing outside the case.


----------



## AverageGai

Hi guys, I've had the H50 for about 3 months now and I read something about the "buzz of doom"

Can you guys tell me what exactly is it and what causes it?

Thank you!


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Offender_Mullet*


Yeah it didn't really make much sense to me, as you'd be blowing hot air into your case so idk why they recommend that.


They recommend it because in a lot of cases it makes their product look better. A lot of setups you would intake cooler air from the back thus giving a you a lower CPU temp though as almost everyone here knows why would you want a few C lower on one device and sacrifice everything else in your build.

The problem is obvious you heat up everything else in your case just to cool your CPU. With a lot of setups now too the problem is that you exhaust hot air out the back from power supplies(if yours is on the bottom) and video cards thus you would be sucking that hot air right into your H50 setup so it would negate corsairs whole idea that the air from the back of the case is cooler.

When I first got my H50 while I was waiting for the RMA of my video cards I had some old 8600GTS cards in my computer that vented their hot air in the case not out the back and tried the H50 as intake it did give almost 4C cooler but the video cards screamed constantly so it definitely wasn't worth the 4C even to torture my video cards.

I have the H50 setup as front intake with 2 shrouds and two GT AP-15 fans now and couldn't be happier the way I have it lined up it blows the hot air right to the back exhaust and top exhaust before it even has time to heat up the rest of my components so works out great.


----------



## dockiks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I have the H50 setup as front intake with 2 shrouds and two *GT AP-15 fans* now and couldn't be happier the way I have it lined up it blows the hot air right to the back exhaust and top exhaust before it even has time to heat up the rest of my components so works out great.


I haven't received any responses to my question about the GT-15's RPM so I thought I'd repost. Would appreciate others' input as well.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dockiks*


What RPM's do you guys with GT-15's get? Mine average 1760. I know they're rated for 1850 RPM. OTOH, my H70 pump averages 1390 RPM. Both the pump and the fans are hooked up to the PSU. I only hooked up the 3rd wires to the MB headers for RPM sensing.

Anybody with similar observations?


----------



## PinkSlippers

Add me to the club. Got it on sale at Fry's this evening. Rig is still in progress







More pics later this week when it's finished.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zenophobe*


Ok so i've driven all over central florida just to find artic silver 5.. btw radio shack has it. this is how i have applied it

and my idle temps with the stock heatsink are 51-55 degrees celsius. What gives.. I guess i just have a very very bad chip... ambient is 26.6 celsius or so.


Try lapping the Base of the H50... there have been a few bad "batches" if you will that are not the best surface. polish that surface into a mirror and see if you get a difference.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dockiks*


I haven't received any responses to my question about the GT-15's RPM so I thought I'd repost. Would appreciate others' input as well.


Fans are rated at + or - 10%. In addition they are spec'ed in open air... when the fan has to do some work, like pushing air through a rad, it will slow down somewhat. Your speeds look ok to me.


----------



## ebolamonkey3

Hey guys, I'm using a H50 w/ a pair of Scythe GT AP-14s right now. From the reviews I've read, there seems to be a 2-3C difference b/t the H50 and the H70 when using the same fans, is that correct?

Does anyone have temps for an OC'd i7 using a pair of Scythe GTs? What kind of temp reductions do you see w/ a fan shroud?

And would I be better off w/ the ECO ALC 240 instead, temp wise?


----------



## M1nUrThr3t

I dont recommend the ECo, and not to sure about the H70 comparison.

I would recommend a nice LAP. Possibly look at your setup as far as intake, exhaust, add shroud, things like that.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dockiks* 
I haven't received any responses to my question about the GT-15's RPM so I thought I'd repost. Would appreciate others' input as well.

I am getting 1915RPM from mine. Just checked it again. I have two other fans I know the max RPM is 1300RPM and I get 1275-1283RPM so know that it isn't just reading fast for everything.


----------



## shapiror06

There was a youtube video posted somewhere in this thread where someone put a smoke machine in a box, closed it off and put a case fan over a hole that was cut out in the box to demonstrate the spread of the airflow from the fan. Can anyone redirect me to that? I can't seem to find it.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shapiror06* 
There was a youtube video posted somewhere in this thread where someone put a smoke machine in a box, closed it off and put a case fan over a hole that was cut out in the box to demonstrate the spread of the airflow from the fan. Can anyone redirect me to that? I can't seem to find it.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8m8fC809TK0


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8m8fC809TK0

Yes! Thanks so much!


----------



## Magus2727

has any one used these on the H50/H70 to see how well the perform when there is back pressure?


----------



## dockiks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I am getting 1915RPM from mine. Just checked it again. I have two other fans I know the max RPM is 1300RPM and I get 1275-1283RPM so know that it isn't just reading fast for everything.



Hmmm...I wonder why mine are spinning slower. These are my fans/pump, their rated RPM and the average actual RPM I get:

Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (1850) 1762
Scythe Slip Stream 140 (1200) 1235
Coolermaster Megaflow 200 (700) 742
H70 pump (1400) 1395

The H70 pump is almost at spec, the 2 other fans are faster than their rated RPM. Only the GT-15's are much lower than spec. Granted that they are pushing/pulling against a radiator (load), but s are Carfanatic's. How about the other GT-15 users out there? What RPM's are you getting?

Note: Only the Megaflow 200 is hooked to a sensing (but not controlling) MB header; the rest are hooked up to the PSU


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dockiks*


Hmmm...I wonder why mine are spinning slower. These are my fans/pump, their rated RPM and the average actual RPM I get:

Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (1850) 1762
Scythe Slip Stream 140 (1200) 1235
Coolermaster Megaflow 200 (700) 742
H70 pump (1400) 1395

The H70 pump is almost at spec, the 2 other fans are faster than their rated RPM. Only the GT-15's are much lower than spec. Granted that they are pushing/pulling against a radiator (load), but s are Carfanatic's. How about the other GT-15 users out there? What RPM's are you getting?

Note: Only the Megaflow 200 is hooked to a sensing (but not controlling) MB header; the rest are hooked up to the PSU


Your AP-15s are only 5% below their rated speed. Fans are sold/advertised at +/- 10% their rated speed. You are well within those limits.


----------



## looser101

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *Magus2727*   has any one used these on the H50/H70 to see how well the perform when there is back pressure?  
Not well.

  
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T98Tmh57Eso  



 
http://www.overclock.net/11040075-post63.html


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Not well.

http://www.overclock.net/11040075-post63.html

That was a noise comparison not performance. Don't think he was asking how loud they are.


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
That was a noise comparison not performance. Don't think he was asking how loud they are.

You are mostly correct. But it shows that the AP121 doesn't move much more than 20cfm through a rad. It also shows that 3 fans can move over 40cfm through a rad. I chose that particular vid because it compares various fans that have been discussed in this thread. In the vid the meter on the left is the cfm and the one on the right is the voltage required to achieve each cfm "step" for each individual fan.

I also linked to the post which describes the video. From there you can find much more info on those fans, in that thread. Here is the test run on the AP121 without a frame of reference.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-iHY4q05z8


----------



## Magus2727

well the noise does seam higher given the lower speed and CFM... I have some Enermax Magna that are 65 CFM 1.3 mm Merc. back pressure that are 18 dB and these are only 1.7 mm Merc Back pressure and are only 35 CFM and 22 dB....

Seams like there are mostly good for directing air, not so much moving air with back pressure. These would be good to have like stated as a general intake or if you have a side fan location directly over a GPU or something...


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
well the noise does seam higher given the lower speed and CFM... I have some Enermax Magna that are 65 CFM 1.3 mm Merc. back pressure that are 18 dB and these are only 1.7 mm Merc Back pressure and are only 35 CFM and 22 dB....

Seams like there are mostly good for directing air, not so much moving air with back pressure. These would be good to have like stated as a general intake or if you have a side fan location directly over a GPU or something...

I would think it would make a great case fan on intake, if you have a need to localize the airstream. ie. force cool air to your graphics card.

Regarding the video... he's measuring at a distance of 1 foot. Manufacturers spec noise at 1 meter and alot of them cheat and spec at the fans lowest voltage/cfm.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
You are mostly correct. But it shows that the AP121 doesn't move much more than 20cfm through a rad. It also shows that 3 fans can move over 40cfm through a rad. I chose that particular vid because it compares various fans that have been discussed in this thread, for comparison purposes. In the vid the meter on the left is the cfm and the one on the right is the voltage required to achieve each cfm "step" for each individual fan.

I also linked to the post which describes the video. From there you can find much more info on those fans, in that thread. Here is the test run on the AP121 without a frame of reference.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-iHY4q05z8

So those rear fins must be what really does the majority of the noise reduction it seems but, even with them removed they really can't push much more air and not worth the noise at that point. I have some Akasa Apache fans that are 1300rpm and pushed more CFM through the H50 radiator than that fan and they are dead silent but, they still didn't push enough air to keep my temps down where I wanted them.


----------



## looser101

I think the fins on the back are to direct the air into that tunnel effect. Removing them probably increases cfm due to less restriction. Noise reduction probably comes from its low speed and blade design.


----------



## GuardianAngel237

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


I'm looking at your case... is this it?









Where exactly do you have your 2 TB setup at(I'd imagine in the lower bay HD area)?
I think he meant to mount the H50 at the FRONT TOP 5.25 bay area, that is if you don't have it filled up... as for me I only have 1 optical drive up there.. so if yours is like that then mount the H50 right there with zip-ties - you won't need to cut anything - just buy 2 good fans(the ultrakaze u meantioned earlier) & make 2 shrouds(any 120mm cheap fan take/pull/rip out the center fans from them) and thats it... set it as *Intake fan<shroud<rad<shroud<fan on the front bay top area


I have two drives up top and my HDDs are on the bottom. I only have two drive bays open on top. It didn't look like enough space when I checked.

Would I really see an increase in temp reduction? I have a quad core, would I need the H70 and an Ultra Kaze?


----------



## Magus2727

Off topic from the current topic but on topic for this thread... How often do you clean your Rad? do you do it on a as needed basis (by checking once a week or something?) or do you always clean it saw 2x a week as part of some special ritual? I need to clean mine out and install my shrouds... but need to get some air in a can.... (or perhaps barrow my father inlaw's little air compressor... I think its such a rip to pay 10 bucks for compressed air...


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Off topic from the current topic but on topic for this thread... How often do you clean your Rad? do you do it on a as needed basis (by checking once a week or something?) or do you always clean it saw 2x a week as part of some special ritual? I need to clean mine out and install my shrouds... but need to get some air in a can.... (or perhaps barrow my father inlaw's little air compressor... I think its such a rip to pay 10 bucks for compressed air...


I use DEMCiflex filters I clean my filters once a week at least but they are awesome filters never have to clean anything else









http://www.demcifilter.com/


----------



## SniperXX

Just picked one up due to the Frys sale. I've run full watercooling setups on this rig before in my old HAF. I am surprised to see how well the H70 is doing.


----------



## Munkypoo7

Just wanted to say, I recieved my Noiseblocker MF12-S2's and... wow!

These fan's are amazingly quiet, and yet move a ton of air in relation to their silence.

Here's a link for those who are interested, it was purchased from here as well, these guys at KoolerTek are awesome, not seeming huge but they have great prices and their shipping is way cheaper than PPC's and Frozen









Love these fans! Only qualm is that for some odd reason, they have a high (prepare for the mishmash of words) "Air-y...wooshy noise" to them at 1250RPM's, knocked them down to 1150RPM's via BIOS, completely inaudible at a range of about 4-5 feet, all while moving more air, quieter than the stock Corsair Fans when they were knocked down to 1000RPM's.

Their build quality is fantastic, they definitely thought this fan through. The rubber corners are thick, heavy, easily can absorb any vibrations, and it's a wonderful fit for the H70 screws. The fans also have what seem to be "dust-proof blades", time will tell, but for now they're an easy win for me ^^

Thanks @ Martin for the help via PM's on deciding


----------



## ebolamonkey3

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Munkypoo7*


Just wanted to say, I recieved my Noiseblocker MF12-S2's and... wow!

These fan's are amazingly quiet, and yet move a ton of air in relation to their silence.

Here's a link for those who are interested, it was purchased from here as well, these guys at KoolerTek are awesome, not seeming huge but they have great prices and their shipping is way cheaper than PPC's and Frozen









Love these fans! Only qualm is that for some odd reason, they have a high (prepare for the mishmash of words) "Air-y...wooshy noise" to them at 1250RPM's, knocked them down to 1150RPM's via BIOS, completely inaudible at a range of about 4-5 feet, all while moving more air, quieter than the stock Corsair Fans when they were knocked down to 1000RPM's.

Their build quality is fantastic, they definitely thought this fan through. The rubber corners are thick, heavy, easily can absorb any vibrations, and it's a wonderful fit for the H70 screws. The fans also have what seem to be "dust-proof blades", time will tell, but for now they're an easy win for me ^^

Thanks @ Martin for the help via PM's on deciding










Thansk for the mini review, been interested in them for a while now! Too bad my local MC is ripping ppl off by pricing them at $35 a pop


----------



## Ivan TSI

Since the GT AP15's are out of stock everywhere which which fan will perform = or better than a GT AP15 and have a moderate sound?


----------



## Magus2727

Dont think it will be the same as the GT AP15 but I am looking at these...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27093

PWM, good airflow and good pressure. looks like it can make some noise 30dBA, but 3.8 mm Merc and 85 CFM @ 2K RPM...


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SniperXX* 
Just picked one up due to the Frys sale. I've run full watercooling setups on this rig before in my old HAF. I am surprised to see how well the H70 is doing.

That looks really nice, like if the case was made for that H70. Awesome placement.


----------



## dockiks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shapiror06*


Your AP-15s are only 5% below their rated speed. Fans are sold/advertised at +/- 10% their rated speed. You are well within those limits.


Seeing how my other fans are spinning faster that their rated RPM's, and Carfanatic's GT-15's are too (1915 vs 1762 for mine), I'm just wondering what RPM's other GT-15 owners are getting. I wouldn't want to think mine came from a poor batch


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dockiks*


Seeing how my other fans are spinning faster that their rated RPM's, and Carfanatic's GT-15's are too (1915 vs 1762 for mine), I'm just wondering what RPM's other GT-15 owners are getting. I wouldn't want to think mine came from a poor batch


Don't worry, Carfanatic is just overclocking his fan frequencies









Just got my H70 installed in new HAF X case i picked up today...lot of work to do still inside but seems to fit better than it did in my HAF932:


----------



## Magus2727

Just ordered 2 of these...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103083

lets see how it will work in a new push pull... my current stock Corsair and 5 year old junk Thermaltake fan are not doing what I want...

Going to install these along with shrouds on both sides (cutting out middle grate and will have part of the fan come out the back).

I CPU temps of 51*c max at the moment under full load (folding) and 30*c when idle. hoping to drop it by +5*c....


----------



## slimbrady

They work OK. If you're going to spend that much though you could get a lot more pressure than those vented sides on the excaliburs are giong to give from an ultra kaze 38mm or something along those lines. Don't get me wrong, I have 3 excaliburs in my case right now and another two in the closet because I like them but mainly for exhaust purposes and heat extraction from an open area. 
They will be very close to temps you get from stock fans if I remember correctly...only tried that setup once quite some time ago and have seen way too many temperatures since then to remember


----------



## Magus2727

it seams like the Excalibur are 30dBA max @ 2000 RPM, 3.5 mmH20 and 85 CFM... and sleeved

The same 2000 RPM Ultra Kaze are:
33dBA, 87 CFM and is not sleeved and the air pressure is 4 mmH20...

so they are twice as loud for only .5mm more static pressure (39.47 Pa for the Kaze vs 35 Pa for the Excalibur)

Edit: Stock fan is 1700RPM and has a noise level of 29.75 dB(A). The max airflow is 59.05CFM with a static pressure of 3.57mm H20

So I will be getting same noise level as stock, and pressure, but more airflow at that pressure. I think It will be a large improvement.... guess time will tell....


----------



## slimbrady

yea i was comparing more the 3k ultra's you can get for around the same price as excaliburs, the 2k ones are cheaper. noise doesn't concern me so I don't put as much weight on DB levels...but I know, to many, that is number 1 on the list so...


----------



## Magus2727

Ha.. yea at the moment 30dBa is good... much more is a little much... I am in an apartment and the computer desk is open to the family/dinning room and its used as my media server also, so if its to loud then the TV has to be loud and the neighbors don't like that.. but we will be getting new "less sensitive" ones by end of the month.

I will be going with a full custom WC loop and will route it to another room (cut holes in the wall and isolate it in another room... ) then I will run the twin turbine Delta fans... the 250 CFM with some 5+ mmH20 pressure... that will sound like a jet....


----------



## IlovetheChosenone

I'll be posting mine tomorrow probably, if my computer gets built tomorrow.


----------



## pistons50

I added myself.... I think. lol


----------



## xstasy

in all honesty, the excaliburs are really really bad fans. Wouldn't recommend them at all!


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xstasy* 
in all honesty, the excaliburs are really really bad fans. Wouldn't recommend them at all!

why? please provide information?

Edit: in 3 separate reviews they look quite good... most downfall (only) is the somewhat noisy fan..

http://www.techreaction.net/2010/02/...ur-fan-review/

http://www.overclockershq.com/coolin...#axzz137F1gV2C

http://www.ninjalane.com/reviews/coo...bur/page3.aspx


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SniperXX* 
Just picked one up due to the Frys sale. I've run full watercooling setups on this rig before in my old HAF. I am surprised to see how well the H70 is doing.



















Wow!! You are so lucky to use that as intake cuz the rad is so huge! I'm impressed you have plenty of room. Now if i only can find a way to use it on my ANTEC 1200 unless i'd just buy a new motherboard that's micro lol. There is a gap between my atx connector and the rad. I can fit fine with the H50 but i want the H70 so bad but fitting it as intake front is a bit of a problem. Might have to figure this out. If anyone has done it for the 1200 case please let me know. I don't want it as exhaust rear anyways because i'd like the heat off my gtx 460 to flow free away from my rad.


----------



## Magus2727

^^^ Add a shroud on the intake side and you will gain some more slack... no reason why you could not have shrouds on both sides and still have room.

That Rad is quite thick.


----------



## shmeetz

hi guys.

this maybe a dumb question, but when you are talking about the temps for the cpu using numbers like 55, 60... etc.., you DO mean celsius and not fahrenheit, righ?

thanks


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shmeetz*


hi guys.

this maybe a dumb question, but when you are talking about the temps for the cpu using numbers like 55, 60... etc.., you DO mean celsius and not fahrenheit, righ?

thanks


celsius as in 27c


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shmeetz*


hi guys.

this maybe a dumb question, but when you are talking about the temps for the cpu using numbers like 55, 60... etc.., you DO mean celsius and not fahrenheit, righ?

thanks


Yes they mean celcius.

Also, what are some good fans to replace the stock ones on the h70 with guys? The stock ones are so loud and I like having them always run at full speed, so I would need fans that I can run at full speed.


----------



## shmeetz

ok thanks. so is 50c +/- a "normal" temp for the cpu to run at when idle with the h50?


----------



## Ikthus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*


Yes they mean celcius.

Also, what are some good fans to replace the stock ones on the h70 with guys? The stock ones are so loud and I like having them always run at full speed, so I would need fans that I can run at full speed.



Gentle Typhoons AP-15s are all the craze right now and are pretty quiet at full speed, plus they cool pretty well. I'm using a pair of Scythe S-Flex SFF21F fans which are almost just as good too if you don't want to go through the trouble of finding a store with GTs in stock, though they're a little bit louder.

I think adding a shroud to your pull fan will reduce the most noise though, I know I get a whining noise from my pull fan before I added one.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ikthus*


Gentle Typhoons AP-15s are all the craze right now and are pretty quiet at full speed, plus they cool pretty well. I'm using a pair of Scythe S-Flex SFF21F fans which are almost just as good too if you don't want to go through the trouble of finding a store with GTs in stock, though they're a little bit louder.

I think adding a shroud to your pull fan will reduce the most noise though, I know I get a whining noise from my pull fan before I added one.


Could you show me the shroud you used?


----------



## Ikthus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*


Could you show me the shroud you used?


http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/fetfcxtrash1.html

That's what I'm using since I got mine for dirt cheap, but you can use pretty much any 120mm fan as a shroud by cutting out the middle.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shmeetz*


ok thanks. so is 50c +/- a "normal" temp for the cpu to run at when idle with the h50?


Since you didn't list the CPU/Revision or the ambient temps you have then it is impossible for us to say if 50c is a normal temp for the CPU to run at idle.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ikthus*


http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/fetfcxtrash1.html

That's what I'm using since I got mine for dirt cheap, but you can use pretty much any 120mm fan as a shroud by cutting out the middle.


Thanks a lot man. I'll try to make my own shroud and maybe give the scythe fans a try. I guess I'll have to get bigger screws. But anything is better than those loud corsair fans.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*


Thanks a lot man. I'll try to make my own shroud and maybe give the scythe fans a try. I guess I'll have to get bigger screws. But anything is better than those loud corsair fans.


How to make a shroud for your H50(click me)


----------



## fredy09

just a quick question... what fans should i use as a push pull to exhaust out of the top of a 800d case? thanks!


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fredy09* 
just a quick question... what fans should i use as a push pull to exhaust out of the top of a 800d case? thanks!

Impossible to tell you with your supplied information. You basically just told us I have a car(800d) and it is black(H50,H70) and I want to turbo charge it what turbo charger do I use?

Without some information on what board you have and components, what cooler you have H50 or H70, and what you want to achieve with your cooler it is hard for anyone to give you a suggestion of fans. I can suggest a 255CFM 38mm fan that will easily keep your CPU cool but if you want it to be quiet obviously that wouldn't work for you and possibly depending on your system setup might not even fit. So any information can provide would help us help you.

At the top of any page you can hit User CP and there you can click on Add System. It will give you a form to fill in all of your PC components and make it easier for everyone to help you. Then just list what your plans are for cooling be it keep it as cool as possible or as quiet as possible but still keep everything cool and go from there...


----------



## fredy09

update my signature. any help is greatly appreciated. Also noise is not a worry.


----------



## adamlau

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fredy09* 
Also noise is not a worry.

Really? In that case, go with the Delta Mega Fast 120mm x 38mm. Don't forget to add the Molex option







.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *adamlau* 
Really? In that case, go with the Delta Mega Fast 120mm x 38mm. Don't forget to add the Molex option







.

Be sure that if you go with that fan you either have your computer in a sound proof booth or in another room or something







66db is nothing to sneeze at.

So be aware when you say noise doesn't matter a lot of people here know some crazy fans


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

I think I got a bad H50... No matter what fans/settings I use, my 1090T always gets up to about 55 degrees celsius at 1.45v... Up to nearly 60 with LinX. This already seems a bit high, but the difference between high and low on my Antec Tri-Cool fans is only 1 degree. (this is push-pull) That seems a little funky.


----------



## EpicPie

Count me in ^_^


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER* 
I think I got a bad H50... No matter what fans/settings I use, my 1090T always gets up to about 55 degrees celsius at 1.45v... Up to nearly 60 with LinX. This already seems a bit high, but the difference between high and low on my Antec Tri-Cool fans is only 1 degree. (this is push-pull) That seems a little funky.









Try Lapping the H50... it is encouraged / authorized by Corsair and will not void the warranty. I am going to be doing that when/if I get a new case, by current case does not have a back plate cutout... so I have to remove my whole MB... or do I??? i have the sticky back on the back plate... I don't think i need to remove the MB, I will do it next week when I get my new fans in...


----------



## cjc75

Question!

I think I may have found a reason for my unusual Temps.

Corsair recommends that this be mounted on the rear of the case, as an Air Intake.

Well, what about those of us with powerful Video Cards that are venting a ton of hot air out the rear as well?

My 5850, is venting a lot of hot air, and I think this hot air is rising up, and getting sucked in through the fans sandwiching my Radiator.

Is this a common issue?

Would I be better off, reversing the two fans on the H50; have them running as an Exhaust; and maybe mount a better fan on the front of the case?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cjc75* 
Question!

I think I may have found a reason for my unusual Temps.

Corsair recommends that this be mounted on the rear of the case, as an Air Intake.

Well, what about those of us with powerful Video Cards that are venting a ton of hot air out the rear as well?

My 5850, is venting a lot of hot air, and I think this hot air is rising up, and getting sucked in through the fans sandwiching my Radiator.

Is this a common issue?

Would I be better off, reversing the two fans on the H50; have them running as an Exhaust; and maybe mount a better fan on the front of the case?

Yes most modern cases are setup to have the back fan as exhaust because of the design of video cards and other components to vent hot air out the back not to mention that a lot of cases have the PS on the bottom as well. Corsair recommends intake from the back because for a lot of people the air is cooler where that back fan is so it would give the lowest CPU temps but, you get a few C lower on your CPU just to heat up everything else is not worth it for most of us.

I have only seen a few posts on this whole thread that have their H50/H70 as intake from the back.


----------



## Skoobs

just thought you guys might be interested in what ive done this weekend.

Note: running i7 920 @ 3.4 ghz with arcitic wilver MX-2 thermal compound

i took out my delta helicopter fan and sandwiched my h50 between two scythe SFF21G. ran prime95 for an hour and maxxed out at 61*C.

added feser Xtender shrouds later, like this:

SFF21G -> Xtender -> rad -> Xtender -> SFF21G

and i got 2-3*c better temps under load. Doesnt seem to be a worthy investment for the temps. The fans are MUCH quieter now though.

just thought i would post in case anyone was curious about the Xtenders by feser. I love the SFF21G fans though. my system is quiet... a big change from my delta fan and just about the same temps.










another few notes:
the Xtenders come with M4 and M6 metric screws.
the corsair H50 is threaded for #6-32 machine screws.
the length you need for just the shroud and a 25mm thick fan is 2.5"
for a shroud, 25mm thick fan, and the case and finger guard, you need 2.75" (i used 3", it works)


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Skoobs* 
just thought you guys might be interested in what ive done this weekend.

Note: running i7 920 @ 3.4 ghz with arcitic wilver MX-2 thermal compound

i took out my delta helicopter fan and sandwiched my h50 between two scythe SFF21G. ran prime95 for an hour and maxxed out at 61*C.

added feser Xtender shrouds later, like this:

SFF21G -> Xtender -> rad -> Xtender -> SFF21G

and i got 2-3*c better temps under load. Doesnt seem to be a worthy investment for the temps. The fans are MUCH quieter now though.

just thought i would post in case anyone was curious about the Xtenders by feser. I love the SFF21G fans though. my system is quiet... a big change from my delta fan and just about the same temps.

another few notes:
the Xtenders come with M4 and M6 metric screws.
the corsair H50 is threaded for #6-32 machine screws.
the length you need for just the shroud and a 25mm thick fan is 2.5"
for a shroud, 25mm thick fan, and the case and finger guard, you need 2.75" (i used 3", it works)

It is much more cost effective to just buy the cheapest 25mm or 38mm fans you can find and gut them for shrouds than it is to buy shrouds that they charge so much money for.


----------



## Enfluenza

does Asetek count?
because H50 is basically a Asetek LCLC tho.
but i have a dual rad!

i'll take a pic if needed.


----------



## PCSarge

technically yes.... but maybe not enflu, better let killhouse decide that one


----------



## fredy09

next question. on this diagram ive setup how im going to layout my fans. but i have 1 question. if i shove 1 sythe kaze 3000 fan on the top left as an exhaust for the rad on the h50. which way should the fan be? rad-fan or or fan-rad? if u look at the diagram u can tell?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fredy09* 
next question. on this diagram ive setup how im going to layout my fans. but i have 1 question. if i shove 1 sythe kaze 3000 fan on the top left as an exhaust for the rad on the h50. which way should the fan be? rad-fan or or fan-rad? if u look at the diagram u can tell?

I would have all the top ones as exhaust although that would give you a negative pressure case which is bad but it would be a better flow than having the top case fans as intake. If there is any other places to put more fans as intake at the front/bottom/side I would do that to try to give you a positive pressure case.

The radiator should be up against the case itself while the fan should be on the radiator exhausting air out the top in the diagram you have.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fredy09* 
which way should the fan be? rad-fan or or fan-rad? if u look at the diagram u can tell?

In my case i have the fan/rad/case in exhaust - what I call "push". I'm using a Scythe Kaze 3000.


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
It is much more cost effective to just buy the cheapest 25mm or 38mm fans you can find and gut them for shrouds than it is to buy shrouds that they charge so much money for.

Pepole buy these becuse they light up. and they only cost around $20.00 and come with nice long screws and a rubber caskit.

I bought one gor my rig. Looks great.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mark_K* 
Pepole buy these because they light up. and they only cost around $20.00 and come with nice long screws and a rubber casket.

I bought one for my rig. Looks great.

Agreed at least it comes with a casket for these pepole.

pepole = the little or young that are annoying and have nothing to do but annoy you.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
technically yes.... but maybe not enflu, better let killhouse decide that one









PCSarge, long time no post. I see you have a new pic....here come the moderators


----------



## Enfluenza

bump for asetek LCLC=H50/H70 question

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


PCSarge, long time no post. I see you have a new pic....here come the moderators










OUR SERVERS CANT REPEL CLEAVAGE OF THIS MAGNITUDE!!!!
INFRACTION!!!!!1


----------



## Walterrific

Finally got a chance to reseat the h70, and my desk organized. Still need to run the cables through the wall. I'll get to that eventually.


----------



## M1nUrThr3t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Walterrific*


Finally got a chance to reseat the h70, and my desk organized.


i love that setup!


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Do you guys think using two H50's together would increase cooling capability?

Ex:

Pump/Block>Rad>Pump/Block>Rad

with one of the pumps on my 1090T. This would eliminate any extra wear on a single pump. What if I actually added a CPU block like the XSPC Rasa? if I used two H50's could it support two rads and the extra block?


----------



## tsm106

Just get a proper aftermarket WC setup. There's little gain in hacking up a H50.


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tsm106*


Just get a proper aftermarket WC setup. There's little gain in hacking up a H50.


What if I used a XSPC Rasa?







I'm stuck with two H50's and having nothing else to do.


----------



## tsm106

There's a thread around here where someone hacked up a H50, diff rad, then dual rad, and it was a bit of a let down. Dude, jabtech has the XSPC starter kit for 130 with the Rasa...


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tsm106*


There's a thread around here where someone hacked up a H50, diff rad, then dual rad, and it was a bit of a let down. Dude, jabtech has the XSPC starter kit for 130 with the Rasa...


Yeah, but I currently have two H50's and all I would really need is the better block as long as the H50 pumps could handle it.

Then again, I could just sell the H50's.


----------



## tsm106

Yep, sell both in a quick sale then drop in 40 bucks etc for the Rasa kit?


----------



## YoursTruly

So question for you guys, I'm planning on picking up an H50 this week to put in my Cooler master Storm: Scout. Now then, I was considering the h70, but realised that the h50 was sold with so much untapped potential! I plan on doing push/pull fans, with the pulling fan on the outside of the case to save a little room, and I plan on adding a clear plexiglass 45mm square shroud http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25682

Now then, my question is, Considering that the Gentle typhoons are currently suffering production problems (or at least everywhere is out of stock) Would you recommend the Coolermaster R4 fans? I didn't see a static pressure listed anywhere, but otherwise the dba to cfm is looking superb. I'd like to keep the machine fairly quiet and still perform well. What do you think?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *YoursTruly*


So question for you guys, I'm planning on picking up an H50 this week to put in my Cooler master Storm: Scout. Now then, I was considering the h70, but realised that the h50 was sold with so much untapped potential! I plan on doing push/pull fans, with the pulling fan on the outside of the case to save a little room, and I plan on adding a clear plexiglass 45mm square shroud http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25682

Now then, my question is, Considering that the Gentle typhoons are currently suffering production problems (or at least everywhere is out of stock) Would you recommend the Coolermaster R4 fans? I didn't see a static pressure listed anywhere, but otherwise the dba to cfm is looking superb. I'd like to keep the machine fairly quiet and still perform well. What do you think?


The db and cfm is grossly overestimated for R4's. The db listed everywhere is at the lowest voltages/amps to run the fans. The cfm is sometimes up to half of the listed when they are running at full rpm that's if they work or don't have problems from the get go. Just speaking from personal experience here if you get a good batch of R4s they are okay fans at least for a while before they develop weird clicking sounds or noises or just quit altogether.

There are still quite a few people in this thread that use R4's so maybe since my last experience with they they have improved but I just can't see them improving them and still charging the same amount of $ for them it would cost them a lot more to improve all the problems I have had with them.


----------



## Magus2727

what cost and volume (dBa) are you looking for?


----------



## YoursTruly

yikes! well, good to know their not exactly reliable. Any other good choices? I would like to go with blue LED fans if possible.


----------



## Magus2727

I dont have these models but have other Enermax fans and like their build quality.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=28301

Blue led's up the wazoo, fairly good static pressure for the noise, speed and CFM

Do cost a little though.. $25 bucks each


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
I dont have these models but have other Enermax fans and like their build quality.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=28301

Blue led's up the wazoo, fairly good static pressure for the noise, speed and CFM

Do cost a little though.. $25 bucks each

I have these fans and pretty much like them.

The blade/hub is interchangeable to mix colors. If anyone decided to do that.
also easy to clean by removing the hub

Led On/Off switch


----------



## YoursTruly

A little on the pricey side, but look to be pretty nice. comes with a fan controler etc, though I'd like to put a fan controller pannel in my 5.25", so I guess I'd have to custom wire that but no biggie. Over all they look pretty nice! thanks for your help! I'll let you guys know when I'm an official H50 owner!


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *YoursTruly* 
A little on the pricey side, but look to be pretty nice. comes with a fan controler etc, though I'd like to put a fan controller pannel in my 5.25", so I guess I'd have to custom wire that but no biggie. Over all they look pretty nice! thanks for your help! I'll let you guys know when I'm an official H50 owner!









If you want cheap but good quality then I always recommend http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27142. A lot cheaper than the others linked but just plain LEDs nothing fancy.

You can even make them $3.95 if you use the pull down and choose stock unsleeved.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
If you want cheap but good quality then I always recommend http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27142. A lot cheaper than the others linked but just plain LEDs nothing fancy.

You can even make them $3.95 if you use the pull down and choose stock unsleeved.

Yate Loons are good fans, quite a few people on here use them (not sure about these LED ones... I just dont know what the static pressure is... I find it odd when you have to do a lot of "hunting" for basic fan statistics. but thats me.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
Yate Loons are good fans, quite a few people on here use them (not sure about these LED ones... I just dont know what the static pressure is... I find it odd when you have to do a lot of "hunting" for basic fan statistics. but thats me.

Supposedly the LED fans are exactly the same(except for the housing and LEDs) as the regular low or medium speed fans so the same stats listed for their non LED versions would apply to the LED version.


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Add me please...


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx* 
Add me please...

You can add yourself









You really need to get some filters on any intakes on your system. All that dust and dirt will end up killing your system. Before I had filters I use to vacuum my whole system out once a month at least. Now I have filters from DEMCiflex and I only vacuum the filters once a week so much easier than trying to vacuum all that crap out of my computer.

If you have your H50 as intake you will really want to make certain you filter that or your radiator will clog up quick and that's a PITA to clean.


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
You can add yourself









You really need to get some filters on any intakes on your system. All that dust and dirt will end up killing your system. Before I had filters I use to vacuum my whole system out once a month at least. Now I have filters from DEMCiflex and I only vacuum the filters once a week so much easier than trying to vacuum all that crap out of my computer.

If you have your H50 as intake you will really want to make certain you filter that or your radiator will clog up quick and that's a PITA to clean.

It's pretty easy to clean for me


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ThumperSD*


It's pretty easy to clean for me


xD3aDPooLx? didn't know you had multiple user names.....

If you look at the posted pictures obviously it is something xD3aDPooLx doesn't keep up with.


----------



## Carfanatic

TigerDirect has the H70 for $79.99 now if you use coupon code OLP9385 for anyone interested.


----------



## Phatal

I'm thinking about getting one of these, which one would be the best bang for your buck and which do u recommend if I'm getting a i7-950 overclocking it to 4ghz.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


TigerDirect has the H70 for $79.99 now if you use coupon code OLP9385 for anyone interested.


wasn't that after rebates? that price


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


wasn't that after rebates? that price


No rebates. $99.99 and the coupon code takes $20 off. You have to get to the checkout and be signed in to enter the code.


----------



## Phatal

When does this promo end, btw which is the best bang for your buck from these two?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Phatal*


When does this promo end, btw which is the best bang for your buck from these two?


It ends 10/31/2010 if you use the code I put above it would be the same price for the H50 or the H70 so unless you need the extra length of the tubes from the H50 the H70 is a better value at least from TD.


----------



## Phatal

I'm not getting my parts till next month for my new rig but am deft getting the H70. You think I should buy it not from TD now or the price will be even lower by next month?


----------



## eternal7trance

What are some good fans I could use with the h70?

The stock ones are way too loud and the GT AP-15s are always out of stock.


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*


What are some good fans I could use with the h70?

The stock ones are way too loud and the GT AP-15s are always out of stock.


cooler master R4?+shroud.
GT15 still the best choice if u can wait.. R4 probably will loud for you too


----------



## Magus2727

If stock fans are two loud... then you are not going to get much better of a fan for same airflow and pressure.... I am using the Cool Master Excalibers (just got them in have not hooked up yet) but all the ratings are the same but the CFM. and are a little costly. You could look at the Yate Loons.... 1-2 pages back...


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
If stock fans are two loud... then you are not going to get much better of a fan for same airflow and pressure.... I am using the Cool Master Excalibers (just got them in have not hooked up yet) but all the ratings are the same but the CFM. and are a little costly. You could look at the Yate Loons.... 1-2 pages back...

The CM Excalibur seems like a waste of a cpu only fan. It has vents on the side to spread air around.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternal7trance* 
The CM Excalibur seems like a waste of a cpu only fan. It has vents on the side to spread air around.

The vents on the side dont "vent" air out the side... look for reviews, they all say they are good radiator fans... but to each their own...


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
xD3aDPooLx? didn't know you had multiple user names.....

If you look at the posted pictures obviously it is something xD3aDPooLx doesn't keep up with.

on only one account... lol... Thats a great idea about the filters.. Ill look into that. I do keep up with the cleaning... Just ran out of cans before that picture...


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx* 
on only one account... lol... Thats a great idea about the filters.. Ill look into that. I do keep up with the cleaning... Just ran out of cans before that picture...

I was out of the country a while ago before I had my filters and my kids and GF had used my computer quite a bit and it was cached up so much I had to wipe it down with a damp rag the vacuum with a soft brush attachment wasn't enough. The H50 radiator I dipped in alcohol(90% pure) to clean it out just the vacuum and compressed air wasn't enough.


----------



## asus6983

Added.


----------



## solar0987

add meee what kinda temps you guys getting with your h50? mine are AMAZING


----------



## Phatal

I'm gonna order mines from TD tonight.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solar0987*


add meee what kinda temps you guys getting with your h50? mine are AMAZING


You do know with your processor that 95% of all boards report the wrong temps? They are 10C lower than what the actual temps are.

With a different CPU but same temp range CPU I am getting in the low to mid 40's.


----------



## t77snapshot

Hi, I am a proud owner of the Corsair *H50*, I like it so much I have one on both a my rigs.







I do plan on building a full water cool setup, but for now this cooler works very well. I would love to join the club, thanks!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

I went to my local hardware store and they don't have any 6/32" screws longer then 2 inchs, so I got long super long threaded rod and cut the size I needed for this project.


















Yes I know, I probably should have cut the grill out for better airflow, but I might want to sell this case in the future and I didn't want to decrease those chances by gutting it.























































*My gaming rig:*


----------



## Phatal

I was going to get the H70 but then saw a water cooling system for $130 + another $30 for the liquids. Do you guys think it's worth paying $80 more for a real water cooler or just sticking with a H70, I'll be running a i7-950 at 4.2ghz with fast ram and a rampage III extreme motherboard.


----------



## Diminished

I would get the H50 or H70, No hassle you know.


----------



## slimbrady

Personally I will sacrifice some cooling efficiency for the ease of the H70 and the piece of mind that Corsair's warranties provide.
If you're only looking at W/C that is within $100 of corsair's systems then I wouldn't think it would be worth it for all the hassle and upkeep you're also buying.
Not trashing full W/C loops I'm just saying if you're going to go custom w/c go all out with a good 3-400$+ system. If you're spending in the sub $200 range just save some money and buy a h70.
My opinion anyway.


----------



## Phatal

Here is the water cooler I was talking about:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11..._Hot_Item.html


----------



## Magus2727

If you want to go to a full W/C loop then that does not look like to bad of a kit to start out with... I would get the kit...

I would then when time/money allowed replace/Upgrade the CPU block with something better... I don't think that block is the best... perhaps upgrade the radiator, later on if you need more performance....

But the H50/H70 is the best hassle free water cooling loop you can get. If you want something bigger I cant remember the company but its the exact same thing as the H50 but with a 240 radiator.


----------



## slimbrady

i think the h70 is higher quality pieces than that kit you linked to but i will admit a triple rad closed loop system for 123$ definitely has some appeal.


----------



## t77snapshot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Phatal* 
Here is the water cooler I was talking about:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11..._Hot_Item.html

XSPC makes excellent rads! I'm not sure about their blocks though....This kit doesn't look all that bad, but IMO if your going with a custom loop like that then you might as well buy the parts seperate for the best performance. Just like Magus said, The H50/70 kit is a 100% hassle and maintenance free water cooling solution.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
But the H50/H70 is the best hassle free water cooling loop you can get. If you want something bigger I cant remember the company but its the exact same thing as the H50 but with a 240 radiator.

Are you thinking CoolIt maybe?


----------



## RagingCain

Uh, this is bad yes?

Was trying to get to 4.0GHz.

3.8 GHz @ 1.40v @ 62c?

Decided to mod this after unimpressive temps to start with:

Lapped, Push/Pull (Intake), 2x Shrouds top and bottom, and Shin Etsu.

Can't figure out why I am getting this temp.

Ambients are 23~25c.

The two fans were taken off the CoolerMaster V6 GT (which was able to beat the Noctua NH-D14) 2200 RPM (High Static) and 93.47 CFM, which gave me the same temps.

Reseated 6 times, retightened 6 times. Making good clear contact, small x style application, total coverage but not overpowering (I can still see shinny copper underneath.)

Tubes are centered between the 4-5 oclock position making baseplate perfectly 90deg up or sideways (enough to cover all of the AMD processor.)

Comparisons:
People getting 53~55c at 4.2 CPU / 3.0 GHz NB and voltages in the 1.45~1.475v / CPU-NB 1.35v range.


----------



## Phatal

I don't wanna be upgrading parts for a water cooler so I might just go with a h70 and then buy a good water cooler for around $300 later on down the road when and if i do upgrade or need better cooling for my CPU.


----------



## asus6983

What is the point of putting a shroud between the rad and a 120mm fan? Also, is the scythe ultra kaze 120mm fan a good choice or should I get something different?


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Phatal* 
Here is the water cooler I was talking about:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11..._Hot_Item.html

That seems like a great kit for that price. Unbeatable if you ask me! Good find.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *asus6983* 
What is the point of putting a shroud between the rad and a 120mm fan? Also, is the scythe ultra kaze 120mm fan a good choice or should I get something different?

Dead air spot in front of fan motor smoothed out. 1 to 1.5 inch optimum shroud.


----------



## asus6983

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alancsalt* 
Dead air spot in front of fan motor smoothed out. 1 to 1.5 inch optimum shroud.

Where do you get shrouds?


----------



## alancsalt

Cheap way, cut the middle out of an old fan.


----------



## asus6983

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alancsalt* 
Cheap way, cut the middle out of an old fan.

Is it necessary to put shrouds on both sides of the rad?


----------



## fssbzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *asus6983*


Is it necessary to put shrouds on both sides of the rad?


nope. but it reduce the dead spot of the fan blowing.which will result 2~3'C drop.
you can simply use unuse fan, cut it out the middle and made shroud.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *asus6983*


Is it necessary to put shrouds on both sides of the rad?


Link from Page 1 FAQ of this thread:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...0-updated.html

There's lots of discussion on this in early threads. Perhaps also see:

http://martinsliquidlab.i4memory.com...ng-Review.html


----------



## t77snapshot

*@RagingCain*

What is your pumps power connected to, the motherboard or the power supply?


----------



## rx7i2

The H50 seems to be the best cooler that can possibly fit in my case, and it seems that the only fan slot I have for it is on the side panel. Assuming I only open the case every now and then, am I good to set it up this way?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rx7i2*


The H50 seems to be the best cooler that can possibly fit in my case, and it seems that the only fan slot I have for it is on the side panel. Assuming I only open the case every now and then, am I good to set it up this way?


Don't know how you feel about modding your case, but maybe putting a 120mm hole in the top, and mounting it there?

Might be a bit awkward on an opening side cover...


----------



## rx7i2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


Don't know how you feel about modding your case, but maybe putting a 120mm hole in the top, and mounting it there?

Might be a bit awkward on an opening side cover...


There already is a 120mm exhaust at the top. It's a small case though and theres about 35mm worth of clearance between the top of the motherboard and the vent. It really shouldn't be a problem though right? just gotta be easy with the side panel when I take it off


----------



## flamin9_t00l

Just added myself

I've just bought a new H70 (been after an H50 since it came out but never got around to it). I have to say I'm very impressed by it. Its knocked off 15c from what my previous cooler, the Titan Fenrir could manage.

I already had an Akasa Apache Black which are very quiet with decent airflow, so I added another in push/pull exhaust in my FT02R-W as I heard the stock fans were very loud.

I would highly recommend this brilliant little kit to anyone who is using air cooling as my results have really amazed me, and the Fenrir is known to be a handy cooler as far as air cooling goes.

Pics:



















I can now very smugly







reach 4.0GHz with HyperThreading turned on for the first time with a little extra overclocking performance in reserve.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rx7i2*


There already is a 120mm exhaust at the top. It's a small case though and theres about 35mm worth of clearance between the top of the motherboard and the vent. It really shouldn't be a problem though right? just gotta be easy with the side panel when I take it off


It's really up to you what you can live with. You won't be able to take it far with hoses attached is all.

If you are handy with tools you could make a mounting bracket/s to hold it next to the vent so the cover could come right off, but totally up to you.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *flamin9_t00l*


Just added myself

I've just bought a new H70 (been after an H50 since it came out but never got around to it). I have to say I'm very impressed by it. Its knocked off 15c from what my previous cooler, the Titan Fenrir could manage.

I already had an Akasa Apache Black which are very quiet with decent airflow, so I added another in push/pull exhaust in my FT02R-W as I heard the stock fans were very loud.

I would highly recommend this brilliant little kit to anyone who is using air cooling as my results have really amazed me, and the Fenrir is known to be a handy cooler as far as air cooling goes.

Pics:

I can now very smugly







reach 4.0GHz with HyperThreading turned on for the first time with a little extra overclocking performance in reserve.


Hmm, similar color scheme to T77's rig. Looks great bro.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rx7i2*


The H50 seems to be the best cooler that can possibly fit in my case, and it seems that the only fan slot I have for it is on the side panel. Assuming I only open the case every now and then, am I good to set it up this way?


check your final depth(push/pull?shrouds?) as well because you may run into your VGA card(s) pretty quickly. Assuming it fits and you're set up as intake from side it might not be optimal but it will provide the necessities.


----------



## rx7i2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


It's really up to you what you can live with. You won't be able to take it far with hoses attached is all.

If you are handy with tools you could make a mounting bracket/s to hold it next to the vent so the cover could come right off, but totally up to you.


Good idea. I'll pick one up from fry's tomorrow and see how it goes


----------



## flamin9_t00l

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*


Hmm, similar color scheme to T77's rig. Looks great bro.










Its actually a deep red (haven't resprayed or anything). It's just how the photo took in poor light.

This is more true to the actual colour:


----------



## asus6983

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fssbzz*


nope. but it reduce the dead spot of the fan blowing.which will result 2~3'C drop.
you can simply use unuse fan, cut it out the middle and made shroud.










How much better is the H50 with the reservoir? Is it worth doing?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *asus6983*


How much better is the H50 with the reservoir? Is it worth doing?



Willhemmens' Reservoir Mod

Tlxxxsracer's Video Tutorial - Reservoir


----------



## asus6983

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*



Willhemmens' Reservoir Mod

Tlxxxsracer's Video Tutorial - Reservoir


What kind of screws are needed to fit all the way through the fan and shroud?


----------



## [email protected]

Just a question.. i really wanna add a h70 as intake like i am currently with my h50 and i notice the rad is quite thick and it's gonna be problems because the gap will be not fitted because the atx connector is right on my motherboard there BUT.. i have plans for a new motherboard and it may change the way i set it up. However.. i wonder if anyone here owns a Antec 1200 and done a h70 as intake front bay with no problems? Maybe i should get a dark fleet case since it has no drive bays blocking it. Otherwise i may have to suck it up and go exhaust in the rear and i don't like that because i want heat off my gtx 460 have air escaped.. not running into the rad. I don't wanna have to consider another case. I really like my Antec 1200. I hope i don't need to consider modding the case lmao. I would love some advice.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *asus6983*


What kind of screws are needed to fit all the way through the fan and shroud?


6 gauge, 32 threads per inch, 6-32 not 6/32", and get lengths to suit


----------



## t77snapshot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *flamin9_t00l* 
Just added myself

Pics:










I can now very smugly







reach 4.0GHz with HyperThreading turned on for the first time with a little extra overclocking performance in reserve.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty* 
Hmm, similar color scheme to T77's rig. Looks great bro.










Quote:


Originally Posted by *flamin9_t00l* 
Its actually a deep red (haven't resprayed or anything). It's just how the photo took in poor light.

This is more true to the actual colour:










Awww, I really thought it was black/orange







...and that it looked awesome! I love black and orange colored scheme's (kinda rare). Red is still cool though, plus your rig looks amazing anyways and there is no denying


----------



## rx7i2

Just replaced my cheapo zalman heatsink with a push/pull setup H50 and I have to say I am very satisfied so far. Idle temps on my q6600 @ 3.4ghz dropped from 38C to 25C!! Time to push the cpu and see how far it'll go


----------



## amandeepmail

hi all!
I assembled a new gaming rig and got a Corsair H70 after reading many good reviews. I certainly want to overclock (at least 3.8 Ghz). Details-

Core i7 920 (c0 stepping, my processor is old and d0 was not available that time)
Corsair H70
Gigabyte x58a-ud7

I managed to get to 3. 8 Ghz stable at 1.31 V approx and 1.4 QPI/Vtt but my temps are very high even with Corsair H70 stock fans at 2000 RPM.

Idle- 45 42 43 39
Load- 81 79 79 78

Temp were recorded by real temp after prime95 for 1 hour. If i decrease the CPU Vcore i get BSOD. My stock idle temps was 33 and load 52 at 2000 RPM.

People are getting better temps then this even at 1.4V CPU Vcore. Help me please!!

PS: My Ambient temp is 24-25c


----------



## YoursTruly

Woot! I just bought an H50!







The pump is a lot larger than I imagined from the pictures, lol. Perspective, what can I say. Anyway I'm sticking with 120mm CM R4 sickleflows for now. I just need to get myself a shroud or two.

I'm planning on running my pull fan from outside of my case with my pushfan attached to a plexiglass 45mm box shroud.

I suppose with my pull fan it will make noise against the case if I don't put a shroud or at least a rubber gasket inbetween.

At the moment, I haven't put anything I've bought inside my case as of yet, as I'm worried about static charge from my carpet, even though I have a static wrist strap..with nowhere to ground it too >_<. Anyway, once my beast is finished I'll show it off loud and proud.


----------



## ThumperSD

hmmm im thinking about adding some shrouds for my AP-15s


----------



## Phatal

Do you guys think I should buy the H70 now for $80 or wait till next month for a better deal if there is one. Its because I'm not buying my computer parts until 3 weeks from now.


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:


Originally Posted by *amandeepmail* 
hi all!
I assembled a new gaming rig and got a Corsair H70 after reading many good reviews. I certainly want to overclock (at least 3.8 Ghz). Details-

Core i7 920 (c0 stepping, my processor is old and d0 was not available that time)
Corsair H70
Gigabyte x58a-ud7

I managed to get to 3. 8 Ghz stable at 1.31 V approx and 1.4 QPI/Vtt but my temps are very high even with Corsair H70 stock fans at 2000 RPM.

Idle- 45 42 43 39
Load- 81 79 79 78

Temp were recorded by real temp after prime95 for 1 hour. If i decrease the CPU Vcore i get BSOD. My stock idle temps was 33 and load 52 at 2000 RPM.

People are getting better temps then this even at 1.4V CPU Vcore. Help me please!!

PS: My Ambient temp is 24-25c

Same ambient as yours:
I am at 3.8 GHz
1.30 V
1.35 QPI

Temps
Idel - 46 44 41 46

very similar to you temps.....


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Phatal* 
Do you guys think I should buy the H70 now for $80 or wait till next month for a better deal if there is one. Its because I'm not buying my computer parts until 3 weeks from now.

3 weeks wont make a difference.
80.00 now and in three weeks is a good price.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mark_K* 
Same ambient as yours:
I am at 3.8 GHz
1.30 V
1.35 QPI

Temps
Idel - 46 44 41 46

very similar to you temps.....

hmm that is odd... you have better fans + shrouds(according to your sig: Corsair H70, 2 x GT AP15, TFC-XTENDER-BL shroud)... he is still using the original corsair fans...

Quote:

my temps are very high even with Corsair H70 stock fans at 2000 RPM.
and he's better than you on idle.

so you seem to have a problem on yours if you have the same ambients... just tripping with ya.. it ain't suppose to matter the idle temps... the only thing that really matters is the max load temps


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
hmm that is odd... you have better fans + shrouds(according to your sig: Corsair H70, 2 x GT AP15, TFC-XTENDER-BL shroud)... he is still using the original corsair fans...

and he's better than you on idle.

so you seem to have a problem on yours if you have the same ambients... just tripping with ya.. it ain't suppose to matter the idle temps... the only thing that really matters is the max load temps

I just installed my H70.
I need to go in and tighten the screwws a little more in a few weeks.


----------



## PinkSlippers

Here's the latest on my h70 Install. I put together a nice little system to squeeze the radiator into my 5.25" Drive Bays.


Corsair Fan <- Radiator <- Shroud <- Scythe Ultra Kaze <- Lian Li PC-343B Fan Module


Front Loading the H70 :: AS5 applied :: A little CM


Lucky me, the stock tubing is the perfect length. The H70 is fully supported by the Fan Module. Filter changes are easy, and airflow is great. Saved me from doing a case upgrade.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mark_K* 
I just installed my H70.
I need to go in and tighten the screwws a little more in a few weeks.

Well whats your max load temps - run *linX* *as administrator* having pressed the "ALL" button do "20" passes... this will burn allot very quickly
for me since I have 8gb of ram it takes about 2 hours & 30 minutes those *20 passes

Like I said idle temps does not matter... max load temps is what really matters

if you feel its too hot.. I'd suggest a re-seat on your H70.. it may improve.


----------



## Sizomu

I was looking for a Nice small ATX case to replace my old one. Loved the Front look of the Cooler Master Elite 370. but loved the all black interiour of the Cooler Master Elite 430. So What do you do?!... *MIXEMUP!*








*^^Front 140mm Intake Cut out.^^*








*^^Back 120mm Exhaust for the H50.^^*








*^^brought to you by: Noctua, Cooler Master, Corsair.... AH!!.. U get it.







^^*








*^^ AANNNNDDD HERE SHE IS!!.... READY 2 COOL da F**K down in the new Case.^^*
More pics will arrive shortly.









Sizomu


----------



## amandeepmail

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mark_K* 
Same ambient as yours:
I am at 3.8 GHz
1.30 V
1.35 QPI

Temps
Idel - 46 44 41 46

very similar to you temps.....

What about your load temp?

I got new Corsair 1600 Mhz RAM and had to increase Vcore to 1.33 and QPI/Vtt to 1.44 to get it stable. Now my temps are 80-85 at full load (prime 95) and 65-70 with OCCT simple test. Is it safe? My H70 is properly seated and i installed it very carefully.

i also noted one thing that ambient temp plays a big role here. In morning when ambient temp is 22c in room i don't go above 75c but in evening when ambient is 25c i get near 82-85c.

PS: My install (radiator on top first fan)-


----------



## rchads89

whats peoples temps with a i7 920 d0 at about 1.3 vcore idle and load. As i may need to re seat mine not sure.

H50 im talking abot not H70

.


----------



## RagingCain

If anyone is interested, I posted some 1090T results in the AMD CPU forums. Lots of i5/i7 setup and temp data but there wasn't very useful 1090T data and high northbridges!

Link


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
Well whats your max load temps - run *linX* *as administrator* having pressed the "ALL" button do "20" passes... this will burn allot very quickly
for me since I have 8gb of ram it takes about 2 hours & 30 minutes those *20 passes

Like I said idle temps does not matter... max load temps is what really matters

if you feel its too hot.. I'd suggest a re-seat on your H70.. it may improve.

I have been up and surfing the net for over 1 hour and my idle temps are now 32 34 33 36 after I tightened the screws. my ambient temp is 20c.


----------



## Phatal

You guys think the price will drop? I didn't get to buy this, I was thinking to go with a $150 water cooling system instead.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Phatal*


You guys think the price will drop? I didn't get to buy this, I was thinking to go with a $150 water cooling system instead.


I don't see the price of the H70 dropping that much I do see the H50 getting some good price drops since the H70 is out now.


----------



## Magus2727

I dont think the price will drop much if at all... the H70 is not really a replacement H50. Its a higher up model, if it was to be the H50's replacement then it would drop the H50 more (or at least stick quite a few on the market place). I think the onlything you may see if that the "sales" on the H50 might be more often, then again sellers may do the sales on the H70 instead to price it closer to the H50 in order to move product...


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Phatal* 
You guys think the price will drop? I didn't get to buy this, I was thinking to go with a $150 water cooling system instead.


This is the kit to get. XSPC Rasa 750

Everyone's raving about how awesome it is and most places can't keep them on the shelves for more than a day before being sold out. According to the few reviews I've seen this kit lowers temps 10-12*c over the H50 on oc'd i7's and roughly 6-8*c on oc'd dualies and quads.

I love my H50 but if this kit were around when I bought it I would of jumped on it. XSPC makes some nice stuff.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t* 
This is the kit to get. XSPC Rasa 750

Everyone's raving about how awesome it is and most places can't keep them on the shelves for more than a day before being sold out. According to the few reviews I've seen this kit lowers temps 10-12*c over the H50 on oc'd i7's and roughly 6-8*c on oc'd dualies and quads.

I love my H50 but if this kit were around when I bought it I would of jumped on it. XSPC makes some nice stuff.

hmm okay?

Why are you comparing an H50 vs a REAL water cooling kit? You can't compare them.. an H50 or H70 are SEALED KITS no need of maintenance.... that kit is not a sealed kit & it does requires maintenance.. obviously custom loops.

In other words you cannot ever compare real water cooling vs an H50 or H70... they will only compete with Top Air Coolers... not custom water cooling.

Eitherway that is indeed a really great cheap water cooling kit... but its not comparable here.. only as in price range. I forgot to say I've seen that kit cooling a bit more than you mentioned







- Who ever has the money certainly buy it


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
hmm okay?

Why are you comparing an H50 vs a REAL water cooling kit? You can't compare them.. an H50 or H70 are SEALED KITS no need of maintenance.... that kit is not a sealed kit & it does requires maintenance.. obviously custom loops.

In other words you cannot ever compare real water cooling vs an H50 or H70... they will only compete with Top Air Coolers... not custom water cooling.

Eitherway that is indeed a really great cheap water cooling kit... but its not comparable here.. only as in price range. I forgot to say I've seen that kit cooling a bit more than you mentioned










I understand that and agree 100% but like you said its in the same price range as an H70 so it is comparable in that aspect. I almost made the leap into that kit myself but I'm pretty happy with my H50 in push pull and I bought an E0 stepping E8500 instead. The H50 couldn't handle my C0 E8500 at anything over 4GHz. It was a hot chip no matter what vcore I used. As you can see in my sig I'm at 4.25GHz on my E0 and my load temps with the same H50/fan combo are about 8*c cooler than my C0 at 4GHz


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t* 
I understand that and agree 100% but like you said its in the same price range as an H70 so it is comparable in that aspect. I almost made the leap into that kit myself but I'm pretty happy with my H50 in push pull.

Actually I gotta say I'm super sorry, my bad to you... ahhah I did not realized you were replying to a user who asked of a better water cooling kit under the $150 budget


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
Actually I gotta say I'm super sorry, my bad to you... ahhah I did not realized you were replying to a user who asked of a better water cooling kit under the $150 budget









No biggie lol I tend to skim through theads myself sometimes and miss important information that was clearly posted


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eternal7trance* 
What are some good fans I could use with the h70?

The stock ones are way too loud and the GT AP-15s are always out of stock.

Not sure if you still follow this thread but here's a few places that have them in stock for now









Gentle Typhoon AP-15

Gentle Typhoon AP-15


----------



## MyNameIsWill

I love my h50, i get 24-26C idle temps and don't go over 39C after 6 hours of load. Well when im playing my xbox 360 and it heats up the whole room along with a warm house it can get to 56C lol, but with a window open and fresh air coming in i don't go over 39.


----------



## MyNameIsWill

Sorry for double post....


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MyNameIsWill* 
I love my h50, i get 24-26C idle temps and don't go over 39C after 6 hours of load. Well when im playing my xbox 360 and it heats up the whole room along with a warm house it can get to 56C lol, but with a window open and fresh air coming in i don't go over 39.

What CPU, motherboard, case etc... do you have you can easily post it if you hit User CP at the top and then Add System from the list. Looks like you have a S-flex fan on one side and a Noctua maybe on the other side guessing just because of the color of it.


----------



## MyNameIsWill

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
What CPU, motherboard, case etc... do you have you can easily post it if you hit User CP at the top and then Add System from the list. Looks like you have a S-flex fan on one side and a Noctua maybe on the other side guessing just because of the color of it.

Yes good guesses man =D. Both are right lol. And i have a crappy case.. ill try the system info thing, thanks im new here =). The whole computer cost me 300$ off craigslist, and the CPU is AMD Phenom 3.4ghz Black Edition.


----------



## MyNameIsWill

Ok i did the system stats now, check it out to see what i have, and thanks for the tip dude.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MyNameIsWill* 
Yes good guesses man =D. Both are right lol. And i have a crappy case.. ill try the system info thing, thanks im new here =). The whole computer cost me 300$ off craigslist, and the CPU is AMD Phenom 3.4ghz Black Edition.

Ah nice could be the same CPU I have then. You might try switching your fans direction. That may raise your CPU temps a few C but it won't heat the rest of the components in your case. With some good fans and the flow setup good even a "crappy" case can do a good job of cooling.

Edit after you seen your setup

That isn't that bad of a case at least it has a side fan.

Make sure your side fan is intake put a good 120mm fan up front as intake and then have your H50 as exhaust and should give you the best cooling you can get from that case.


----------



## MyNameIsWill

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Ah nice could be the same CPU I have then. You might try switching your fans direction. That may raise your CPU temps a few C but it won't heat the rest of the components in your case. With some good fans and the flow setup good even a "crappy" case can do a good job of cooling.

My temps are fine now, i get good idles and i rarely even go over 20 of CPU usage lol. And the card in my comp doesn't really get hot because its crappy as hell. So i think warming the inside of the computer will not be a problem. Thanks tho =)


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PinkSlippers* 
Here's the latest on my h70 Install. I put together a nice little system to squeeze the radiator into my 5.25" Drive Bays.

Nice setup. I am especially fond of front loaded rads with the H50 / H70.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MyNameIsWill* 
My temps are fine now, i get good idles and i rarely even go over 20 of CPU usage lol. And the card in my comp doesn't really get hot because its crappy as hell. So i think warming the inside of the computer will not be a problem. Thanks tho =)

Well it is not just your card all of your motherboard components and HDD(s) and even DVD drives and such shortens their life by being constantly heated.

If you are getting good temps on all components then great keep it right where it is then


----------



## [email protected]

I wonder if the H70 will be a problem if i gotten a "micro" motherboard installed in my Antec 1200. Wouldn't the tubes be limited to reach if i wanted it in the front intake of my case? I really hate the idea of having the rad as exhaust in my case because heat rises from my video card and goes in the rad. I really dislike the idea of that and i like lower temps and i always have it intake. I use a fan bracket that Antec 1200 comes with and screw it in and then the fan too


----------



## t-ramp

There usually isn't a difference between the CPU location on a microATX board and an ATX one. But that doesn't mean there will or won't be enough tubing to reach to the front of the case.


----------



## [email protected]

Hmm interesting..


----------



## Houly

Entry

















(added myself OFC







)


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Houly* 
Entry








(added myself OFC







)

Nice setup welcome to the club. You just using stock fans at 2k right now?


----------



## Houly

Using them at 1500 just changed they are noisy as h*ll.

Its like the pull fan is touching something but it isn't .. I'm going to try some stuff or buy new ones ...

Sent from Desire with MIUI


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Houly*


Using them at 1500 just changed they are noisy as h*ll.

Its like the pull fan is touching something but it isn't .. I'm going to try some stuff or buy new ones ...

Sent from Desire with MIUI










I think that the included resistors(at least if that's what you used to lower their speed) keeps them at about 1600rpm.

If it's noise you want to keep in check just try to find some Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-15 fans they run at 1850 rpm and are as quiet or quieter than my GTS 250 video card fan at normal idle speeds if the fan speeds up on my video card it is a ton louder.

Sadly all the reputable places I know to buy them are sold out. Something you can do if you have any old 120mm fans is gut them and use them for shrouds particularly on your push fan that will lower the noise some no matter what fans your using. If you have one/both of your fans blowing through a fan guard on your case or attached to the fans themselves that a lot of the time is the cause of undue noise too take them off/cut them out has helped countless people here to eliminate whining and "shuffing" air noise.


----------



## bradtn

running with stock fans at max not noisy enough to bother me at all but i will be replacing them with panaflo ultrahighspeeds on a controller. Overclocked to 4ghz right away no prob with max temp of like 74-76 on stress test 25 runs


----------



## Draygonn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bradtn*


i will be replacing them with panaflo ultrahighspeeds on a controller.


good choice.


----------



## samhfoley

I have an H70 coming in the mail due to arrive tomorrow night along with 2 Scythe AP-15's. My question is about set-up. I have seen numerous pictures of people's set-ups. Some people seem to only have the one fan on the inside, with the radiator flush to the case and the fan inside. Other have one fan outside the case, the radiator just inside the case and another fan inside.

Which is best?

Also which is better? pulling cold air from outside the case into the radiator or blowing air from inside the case through the radiator and having another fan outside pulling? I think Corsair said that they preferred the 1st option, but I have heard other say that the latter option is better. Thoughts?

Lastly, Thermal Paste. How is the Corsair Stock thermal paste? Should I use that or go with something else? If something else then what?

Thanks in advance.
Sam


----------



## Snips

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samhfoley*


I have an H70 coming in the mail due to arrive tomorrow night along with 2 Scythe AP-15's. My question is about set-up. I have seen numerous pictures of people's set-ups. Some people seem to only have the one fan on the inside, with the radiator flush to the case and the fan inside. Other have one fan outside the case, the radiator just inside the case and another fan inside.

Which is best?

Also which is better? pulling cold air from outside the case into the radiator or blowing air from inside the case through the radiator and having another fan outside pulling? I think Corsair said that they preferred the 1st option, but I have heard other say that the latter option is better. Thoughts?

Lastly, Thermal Paste. How is the Corsair Stock thermal paste? Should I use that or go with something else? If something else then what?

Thanks in advance.
Sam


IIRC the stock thermal paste is pretty high end (shin-etsu i think), no reason to change it. Having my fans exhausting air out of my case yielded better temps for me, but not everyone will get the same results, I think you should test it yourself


----------



## Penryn

Anyone wanna share their H50 temps with a 1055T or 1090T at 4.0?


----------



## mongorie

Ambient : 25ish
1055t @ 4004 @ 1.45 Intel burn Test cpu socket temp 56
Push and pull on the radiator, Xigamtek 1254 front, R4 at back.

In my picture the cores and volts are much lower because i have enabled C&Q , but at load the volts go up to 1.47


----------



## GameBoy

I've just tried to uninstall my H50 and I cannot get the two adhesive pads off my board!, how do I get these things off without damaging my board?

Edit: Used a hairdyer to heat it up abit and then I put a razor blade through it, it worked but now I have abit of the leftover advesive on my Motherboard, how do I sort this out?


----------



## samhfoley

Excuse my ignorance, but the Corsair guide said to ensure that the fans are getting full power from the motherboard. Where do I check this? In the power section of the BIOS? Set to TURBO? I have a P6TD Deluxe. Thanks


----------



## Houly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I think that the included resistors(at least if that's what you used to lower their speed) keeps them at about 1600rpm.

If it's noise you want to keep in check just try to find some Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-15 fans they run at 1850 rpm and are as quiet or quieter than my GTS 250 video card fan at normal idle speeds if the fan speeds up on my video card it is a ton louder.

Sadly all the reputable places I know to buy them are sold out. Something you can do if you have any old 120mm fans is gut them and use them for shrouds particularly on your push fan that will lower the noise some no matter what fans your using. If you have one/both of your fans blowing through a fan guard on your case or attached to the fans themselves that a lot of the time is the cause of undue noise too take them off/cut them out has helped countless people here to eliminate whining and "shuffing" air noise.


Noise isnt really my problem but they are noisy REALLY noisy but thnks i tihnk i will get sum new fans later


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GameBoy*


I've just tried to uninstall my H50 and I cannot get the two adhesive pads off my board!, how do I get these things off without damaging my board?

Edit: Used a hairdyer to heat it up abit and then I put a razor blade through it, it worked but now I have abit of the leftover advesive on my Motherboard, how do I sort this out?


Use rubbing Alcohol with q-tip


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GameBoy*


I've just tried to uninstall my H50 and I cannot get the two adhesive pads off my board!, how do I get these things off without damaging my board?

Edit: Used a hairdyer to heat it up abit and then I put a razor blade through it, it worked but now I have abit of the leftover advesive on my Motherboard, how do I sort this out?


Goo Gone from Home Depot!


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samhfoley*


I have an H70 coming in the mail due to arrive tomorrow night along with 2 Scythe AP-15's. My question is about set-up. I have seen numerous pictures of people's set-ups. Some people seem to only have the one fan on the inside, with the radiator flush to the case and the fan inside. Other have one fan outside the case, the radiator just inside the case and another fan inside.

Which is best?

Also which is better? pulling cold air from outside the case into the radiator or blowing air from inside the case through the radiator and having another fan outside pulling? I think Corsair said that they preferred the 1st option, but I have heard other say that the latter option is better. Thoughts?

Lastly, Thermal Paste. How is the Corsair Stock thermal paste? Should I use that or go with something else? If something else then what?

Thanks in advance.
Sam


Stock TIM is one of the best out there no need to change it.

Unless you have something venting hot air below where the H70 setup will be then Corsair recommends intake because it will usually gives you a better CPU temp so it makes their product look better but, why would you want to heat up everything else in your case just so one component can be just a few C cooler? You don't. Most everyone here has their H50/H70 if it is setup at the rear of the case as exhaust. Not just because they don't want to heat up everything else having it as intake messes up the thermal design of most modern cases. Most cases now are designed for front intake, side intake and rear exhaust from the back and top(if available) If you switch the rear to intake you mess up the whole design of most cases and heat everything up for just that one component again.

If you have the space and the tubes are long enough I recommend mounting it in the front as intake try to line it up with the rear exhaust fan(s) you get the best cool air intake and the hot air really doesn't get the time to heat anything else up since it should be exhausted right out the back and top of your case.


----------



## Robilar

Are the screws provided with the H70 for fan mounting of sufficient length to work with a pair of 38mm fans?


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *clubfoot*


Goo Gone from Home Depot!


I would never use that on my mobo. It does work great for removing adhesive but it leaves an oily residue which I wouldn't want on my mobo.


----------



## Magus2727

Thats why you use alcohol after wards to remove the residue.... goo-gone (which can be had any where not just home depot) works much better on the adhesive then alcohol alone.


----------



## Munkypoo7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Are the screws provided with the H70 for fan mounting of sufficient length to work with a pair of 38mm fans?


I'm going to say no, since they only give about 1/3 of a cm with 25mm fans.

Your local Home Depot or Lowes (or hardware store) should have 2" variants of the screws though, least they do here in the states


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Are the screws provided with the H70 for fan mounting of sufficient length to work with a pair of 38mm fans?


No the screws provided are for a 25mm fan not 38.


----------



## Penryn

Hrm so my temps appear in line then...

Sent from my T-Mobile myTouch 3G Slide using Tapatalk


----------



## Gumpy Joe

This little beauty is probably one of the best purchases I've ever made for a computer. Well worth the Â£50 odd quid I paid for it.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samhfoley*


Excuse my ignorance, but the Corsair guide said to ensure that the fans are getting full power from the motherboard. Where do I check this? In the power section of the BIOS? Set to TURBO? I have a P6TD Deluxe. Thanks


Not ignorance... sometimes we dont know, what we dont know









You can check the RPM either via the BIOS or a 3rd part prog like Speedfan.

Alternatively, you can connect the fans straight to the PSU via a molex adapter or via a fan controller.

If you are using mobo headers make sure they are 12v not 5v headers.

This goes for your pump as well.


----------



## sendblink23

Well guys bought an AMD Athlon ii x3 425 for my mom.. and decided to hook up my old H50 on her build - I literally just used the stock corsair fan & MX-3 as thermal paste.. nothing else. Not forgetting to mention the room ambients are around 88F and there is no Air Conditioner on this room.

Well instantly I overclocked the CPU from stock 2.70Ghz to 3.40Ghz still leaving at stock the voltage.... so for fun I did only a 10 minute run of prime95 on blend.. and check out the temps


















I'm still not certain if am I reading correctly the temps of the cores.. are my sensors correct? CoreTemp & Everest both report the same temps as HWmonitor 
idle 23c / 35c max load

Here is 20 runs of linX "all" button pressed









According to this link at the very bottom: http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K10/AM...5WFGIBOX).html
It says "Maximum operating temperature (Â°C) ? 55c - 73c"

Well if its correct.. then I'm gonna try to push to 4Ghz even if my mom obviously won't need at all 4ghz.. its just for fun







but this time I'm gonna do at least 4 hours of Prime95 blend


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sendblink23*


It says "Maximum operating temperature (Â°C) ? 55c - 73c"


Pretty sure the Athlon II are 55-63c for their listed specifications. For any of my own systems I would never run one that will reach over 55C but I run mine almost 24/7.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Pretty sure the Athlon II are 55-63c for their listed specifications. For any of my own systems I would never run one that will reach over 55C but I run mine almost 24/7.


I'm still asking the question.. are my temp readings correct or not?

Even if it were 55c.. didn't you see my max load was only 37c according to linX.. I'm extremely far away of the limits

Clarification It is 73c the max 
Read here: http://products.amd.com/en-us/Deskto...False&f12=True

You got confused this is not Phenom ii this is Athlon ii

Phenom ii: http://products.amd.com/en-us/Deskto...f10=&f11=&f12=

But like the obvious.. since I own a Phenom ii and I'm so used to using it I'm obviously setting my max to be around 55c


----------



## samhfoley

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Not ignorance... sometimes we dont know, what we dont know









You can check the RPM either via the BIOS or a 3rd part prog like Speedfan.

Alternatively, you can connect the fans straight to the PSU via a molex adapter or via a fan controller.

If you are using mobo headers make sure they are 12v not 5v headers.

This goes for your pump as well.


 Thanks for the quick reply. SpeedFan shows 
Sys FAN 2220 RPM
CPU0 FAN 1722 RPM
AUX FAN 1395 RPM

I had a bit of a battle installing my H70. LOL I seem to always struggle with these installs and it took me the better part of 2 hours and 4-5 re-seatings of the H70 before I think I got it set properly. I cannot vouch for the state of the thermal paste after that many re-seatings.

Default BIOS settings ran 29 C

Now O/C to 4.2 GHz at 47C idle. Too high?

Thoughts appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Ai Overclock Tuner - Manual
CPU Ratio Setting - 21
Intel (R) SpeedStep (TM) Tech - Disabled
Intel (R) Turbo Mode Tech - Disabled
BCLK Frequency - 200
PCIE Fequency - 100
DRAM Frequency - DDR3 - 1603MHz 
DRAM CAS# Latency - 7 DRAM Clock
DRAM RAS# to CAS# Delay - 7 DRAM Clock
DRAM RAS# PRE Time - 7 DRAM Clock
DRAM RAS# ACT Time - 20 DRAM Clock

CPU Voltage 1.35000v 
CPU PLL Voltage - 1.96
QPI/DRAM Core Voltage - 1.35v 
IOH Voltage - Auto
IOH PCIE Voltage - Auto
ICH Voltage - Auto
ICH Voltage - Auto

DRAM Bus Voltage - 1.66v
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHA - Auto
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHA - Auto
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHB - Auto
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHB - Auto
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHC - Auto
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHC - Auto

Load-Line Calibration - Enabled
CPU Differential Amplitude - Auto
CPU Clock Skew - Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum - Disabled
IOH Clock Skew - Auto
PCIE Spread Spectrum - Disabled


----------



## harajyuks

Im def. going to get me one, can't wait to up my pics... although I will be shamed! loving this forum.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samhfoley*


Thanks for the quick reply. SpeedFan shows 
Sys FAN 2220 RPM
CPU0 FAN 1722 RPM
AUX FAN 1395 RPM

I had a bit of a battle installing my H70. LOL I seem to always struggle with these installs and it took me the better part of 2 hours and 4-5 re-seatings of the H70 before I think I got it set properly. I cannot vouch for the state of the thermal paste after that many re-seatings.

Default BIOS settings ran 29 C

Now O/C to 4.2 GHz at 47C idle. Too high?

Thoughts appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Ai Overclock Tuner - Manual
CPU Ratio Setting - 21
Intel (R) SpeedStep (TM) Tech - Disabled
Intel (R) Turbo Mode Tech - Disabled
BCLK Frequency - 200
PCIE Fequency - 100
DRAM Frequency - DDR3 - 1603MHz 
DRAM CAS# Latency - 7 DRAM Clock
DRAM RAS# to CAS# Delay - 7 DRAM Clock
DRAM RAS# PRE Time - 7 DRAM Clock
DRAM RAS# ACT Time - 20 DRAM Clock

CPU Voltage 1.35000v 
CPU PLL Voltage - 1.96
QPI/DRAM Core Voltage - 1.35v 
IOH Voltage - Auto
IOH PCIE Voltage - Auto
ICH Voltage - Auto
ICH Voltage - Auto

DRAM Bus Voltage - 1.66v
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHA - Auto
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHA - Auto
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHB - Auto
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHB - Auto
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHC - Auto
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHC - Auto

Load-Line Calibration - Enabled
CPU Differential Amplitude - Auto
CPU Clock Skew - Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum - Disabled
IOH Clock Skew - Auto
PCIE Spread Spectrum - Disabled


Please tell me you load temps... then we'll see if its high.

If you did 4-5 re-seatings with the same paste... it would be messy under that cold plate and maybe, higher temps.

Give it a day or 3 to settle down. If temps remain high, suggest another re-seat... just the one this time, not 4 or 5









Sys FAN 2220 RPM - not bad
CPU0 FAN 1722 RPM - did you remember to disable smart fan and power saving in BIOS?
AUX FAN 1395 RPM - Pump I assume - okay


----------



## samhfoley

No. not happy at all under Prime95, crashed out after like 20 sec. running up to 79 C

My mistake, on Vcore and QPI/DRAM Core Voltage

Should have read 1.3 and 1.3

CPU0 FAN 1722 RPM - did you remember to disable smart fan and power saving in BIOS?

No, where is SMART FAN in BIOS? Power Saving I think I disabled...which ones specifically should I disable?


----------



## Robilar

Has anyone seen any improvements with the H70 using non-stock fans?

I have one and a pair of 3k Ultra Kaze's (stilling hunting for proper length screws) and curious to see if anyone has seen a performance increase.


----------



## flaxe

Do you guys think the H70 will work on Sandy Bridge (1155)? I don't got the H70 yet, but I'm thinking of buying it to my current computer and when Sandy Bridge is released I will buy that and hopefully I will be able to use my H70 for the new cpu! Do you think it will work? Thanks for an awesome community also


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samhfoley*


No. not happy at all under Prime95, crashed out after like 20 sec. running up to 79 C

My mistake, on Vcore and QPI/DRAM Core Voltage

Should have read 1.3 and 1.3

CPU0 FAN 1722 RPM - did you remember to disable smart fan and power saving in BIOS?

No, where is SMART FAN in BIOS? Power Saving I think I disabled...which ones specifically should I disable?


Fan speed in a Gigabyte Award bios, under PC Health, not sure bout yours.
For my 4.2 OC I'm getting away with bios 1.3215v cpu and with HT on, Priming to 77C, idling at 38-40C.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *flaxe*


Do you guys think the H70 will work on Sandy Bridge (1155)? I don't got the H70 yet, but I'm thinking of buying it to my current computer and when Sandy Bridge is released I will buy that and hopefully I will be able to use my H70 for the new cpu! Do you think it will work? Thanks for an awesome community also










Depends whether same mounting hole pattern - may need revision of H50/H70 mounts.


----------



## Robilar

Just installed an H70 into my system.

Trying to find screws that will suite my Kaze's (stock fans for now).

One thing I have to say is that I have built entire computer systems in the time it takes to install the cooler. Very very finicky....


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Just installed an H70 into my system.

Trying to find screws that will suite my Kaze's (stock fans for now).

One thing I have to say is that I have built entire computer systems in the time it takes to install the cooler. Very very finicky....


Go to Canadian Tire and get some toggle bolts. If they are too long cut them, or use some nuts to tighten down the fans.


----------



## Robilar

Doing a prime run.

Temps are pretty reasonable thus far for 4Ghz.


----------



## RagingCain

God job Rob, thats pretty damn decent for Intel isn't it?

That being said I had 54c on my AMD with ultra kazes, that was the last mod I did two days ago before switching to the Noctua NH-d14.

That was on an H50.


----------



## Robilar

A bit better than my lapped TRUE with push-pull 3000 RPM fans.

Once I mount the Kaze's on the H70, it should improve.


----------



## eternal7trance

When I put a shroud on the h70, should I only use one on the push side or should I use two?


----------



## Seanicy

Just wanted to pop in cause it's been a while and wanted to show you guys some results with my H50. Here is a pic of my GD-70 showing 16c for my CPU. What do you guys think? Not bad for an H50 huh? Oh also my ambients are between 77-80F, Florida yah know...


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Seanicy* 
Just wanted to pop in cause it's been a while and wanted to show you guys some results with my H50. Here is a pic of my GD-70 showing 16c for my CPU. What do you guys think? Not bad for an H50 huh? Oh also my ambients are between 77-80F, Florida yah know...

With those ambient temps 16C is impossible unless your running your H50 radiator in a bucket of ice water or something like that. You cannot go below ambient temps without artificial cooling with any air or water cooler.

I also see you have a pretty similar board to what I have. If I use CPUID it shows my CPU temps at 0C same with countless other programs I have tried updating my Bios and still the same thing. Go to MSI's website and download OverclockingCenter and see what that gives you for your temps it may be closer to real temps but if it is showing the same as CPUID then you just have to add 10C.

That said you do know that your processor does not show the correct temps for it? The MB is reading what the CPU is telling it it's temp is which is 10C below what actual temp is. I would believe a 26C idle temp for sure that is a few C above my idle so easily possible.


----------



## bob_711

hey would i be better to get a h50 with the reservoir mod or the stock h70 cos they would equal about the same price which would keep it cooler,would the reservoir make it any cooler in the h50 i know nothing of water cooling right now just learning


----------



## antipesto93

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bob_711* 
hey would i be better to get a h50 with the reservoir mod or the stock h70 cos they would equal about the same price which would keep it cooler,would the reservoir make it any cooler in the h50 i know nothing of water cooling right now just learning









stock h70 i would say, The great thing about the h50/70 is that it is allmost impossible to leak and easy to set up, If you are bothering to add a res to the h50 you are better off just getting a WC kit from XSPC or something


----------



## bob_711

would this be better, the ThermalTake CL-W0175 PW850i or am i better just getting the h70 thanks


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bob_711* 
would this be better, the ThermalTake CL-W0175 PW850i or am i better just getting the h70 thanks


















I've read some pretty bad reviews on that Thermaltake setup. The XSPC Rasa kit is probly the best bang for the buck water cooling "kit" around at the moment.


----------



## Chicken Patty

TT is low end, I've used their products but they are not very good. Speaking from personal experience here.


----------



## bob_711

ok thanks alot







i'll just get the h70 then


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bob_711* 
ok thanks alot







i'll just get the h70 then

Much better choice IMO.


----------



## JANASHEEN

heres my H50


----------



## Chicken Patty

Holy crap, can it get any cleaner than that? Naw, doubt it!


----------



## mothman

Anybody put an H50 in a Lian Li PC-V1000 Case ? It's an inverted mobo design and the space around the rear exhaust fan is kinda tight. Just wanted to see if anyone has this case before I buy an H50 and find out it doesn't fit.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JANASHEEN* 
heres my H50









Very clean rig. I'm liking the white a lot


----------



## Nooooob

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JANASHEEN* 
heres my H50









It's so beautiful..........


----------



## Archer S

my god that case looks amazing in white


----------



## abosnowman

Just picked up the H50 a little while ago and I'm eager to try it out. I'm going to be putting in into a NZXT Tempest. Anyone know if it would be better to have the radiator fan as intake as suggested by corsair, or as exhaust for my case? It has 2 120mm fans intaking in the front, 1 side intake, 2 top exhaust (140mm i believe), and 1 120mm exhaust in the rear. If I should have it intaking, would it be beneficial to attempt to install it in the front of the case?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *abosnowman*


Just picked up the H50 a little while ago and I'm eager to try it out. I'm going to be putting in into a NZXT Tempest. Anyone know if it would be better to have the radiator fan as intake as suggested by corsair, or as exhaust for my case? It has 2 120mm fans intaking in the front, 1 side intake, 2 top exhaust (140mm i believe), and 1 120mm exhaust in the rear. If I should have it intaking, would it be beneficial to attempt to install it in the front of the case?


I would not do intake from the back of the case it just messes with the whole air flow setup of the case even if you did IMO it is not worth the few C you might get to heat everything else up. I have mine in front of my computer with a custom mount I made as intake the only other way I would have it is rear exhaust but I would have to cut out my whole case to make that work because there isn't enough clearance between the H50 pump/block and where the H50 mounts to have my two fans and two shrouds and the radiator.


----------



## Robilar

After a day of playing around with the H70, I have to say that I am very impressed. I've been a hard core air cooler for years (having lapped half a dozen TRUE's) but the H70 not only out-performs my air coolers, it does so with the stock fans.

For $90, it's a heck of a deal. 4 ghz on my cpu and none of the cores exceeded 59C.

Mind you, the installation is a test of patience...


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RagingCain*


God job Rob, thats pretty damn decent for Intel isn't it?

That being said I had 54c on my AMD with ultra kazes, that was the last mod I did two days ago before switching to the Noctua NH-d14.

That was on an H50.


Just wondering what are you getting right now since you switched?


----------



## samhfoley

[/IMG]
Reseated H70 again with just a drop of grease at the center of the CPU and these are my idle temps. The CORE's appear to be a bit warm, but when I look at CPU it says 24 or 25 C which is pretty good. Thoughts?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samhfoley*


Reseated H70 again with just a drop of grease at the center of the CPU and these are my idle temps. The CORE's appear to be a bit warm, but when I look at CPU it says 24 or 25 C which is pretty good. Thoughts?


Look like my temps. Ambient temp of 23C? Actually, two of your cores are cooler.


----------



## samhfoley

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


Look like my temps. Ambient temp of 23C? Actually, two of your cores are cooler.


What settings are you using for your 4.2 O/C I want to see if I can get there... Seems like we have similar set-ups.

Here's what I got with IntelBurn Test at Std.


----------



## alancsalt

Well you don't really want to get much hotter. How hot does 15 minutes of Prime get you?
77C for me, at 4.2GHz.

Our motherboards are going to have some different options in bios. I'm Gigabyte, yr Asus.

Quote:



CPU = Model i7 950, Batch #3014A844, 4200mhz, 21x200.
Motherboard = X58A-UD3R, Revision 2
BIOS Version = FC3
Ram = Corsair Dominator, TR3x2G1600C8D

*Advanced CPU Features:*
CPU Clock Ratio ................................ [21x]
CPU Frequency .....(Ghz).........................[4.2]
Advanced Frequency Settings 
Intel(R) Turbo Boost Tech .................. [Disabled]
CPU Cores Enabled ............................ [All]
CPU Multi Threading .......................... [Enabled]
CPU Enhanced Halt (C1E) ................... [Disabled]
C3/C6/C7 State Support .................... [Disabled]
CPU Thermal Monitor ......................... [Enabled]
CPU EIST Function ............................ [Disabled]
Bi-Directional PROCHOT ..................... [Enabled]

Uncore & QPI Features:
QPI Link Speed .............................. x36
Uncore Frequency .......................... x17 (Always 2x memory Multi or 2x +1)

Standard Clock Control:
Base Clock (BCLK) Control ................ [Enabled]
BCLK Frequency (MHz) .....................[200]
PCI Express Frequency (MHz) ........... [100]
C.I.A.2 [Disabled]

Advanced Clock Control:
CPU Clock Drive ..............................[800mV]
PCI Express Clock Drive ................... [900mV]
CPU Clock Skew ............................. [0ps]
IOH Clock Skew ............................. [0ps]

*Advanced DRAM Features:*
Performance Enhance ...................... [Standard]
Extreme Memory Profile (X.M.P) ......... [Disabled]
System Memory Multiplier (SPD) ........ [8]
DRAM Timing Selectable (SPD) .......... [Quick]
Channel Interleaving ...................[6]
Rank Interleaving ......................[4]

Channel A + B + C

Channel A Timing Settings:
##Channel A Standard Timing Control##
CAS Latency Time ...........................[8]
tRCD .......................................[8]
tRP ........................................[8]
tRAS .......................................[20]

##Channel A Advanced Timing Control##
tRC ........................................[27] 
tRRD .......................................[4]
tWTR .......................................[4] 
tWR ........................................[8]
tWTP .......................................[Auto] 
tWL ........................................[Auto] 
tRFC .......................................[60]
tRTP .......................................[4]
tFAW .......................................[AUTO]
Command Rate (CMD) ................[1]

##Channel A Misc Timing Control##
Round Trip Latency .........................[Auto]
B2B CAS Delay ..............................[Auto]

*Advanced Voltage Control:*

CPU
Load Line Calibration ................. [Level 2]
CPU Vcore ..............................[1.3125]
QPI/VTT Voltage ...... .................[1.295]
CPU PLL 1.800v .........................[1.8]

MCH/ICH
PCIE 1.500v ............................[1.5]
QPI PLL 1.100v .........................[1.1]
IOH Core 1.100v ........................[1.1]
ICH I/O 1.500v .........................[1.5]
ICH Core 1.1v ..........................[1.1]

DRAM
DRAM Voltage 1.500v ....................[1.66]
DRAM Termination 0.750v ................[AUTO]
Ch-A Data VRef. 0.750v .................[AUTO]
Ch-B Data VRef. 0.750v .................[AUTO]
Ch-C Data VRef. 0.750v .................[AUTO]
Ch-A Address VRef. 0.750v ..............[AUTO]
Ch-B Address VRef. 0.750v ..............[AUTO]
Ch-C Address VRef. 0.750v ..............[AUTO]

Miscellaneous Settings
Virtualization Technology ................... [Disabled]
Isonchronous Frequency ..................[Enabled]


0X00000050 << Incorrect Memory Timing/Freq or Uncore Multi
0X00000124 << Incorrect QPI/Vtt Voltage (Too Much/Not Enough)
0X00000101 << Not enough Vcore Voltage

To get the temperature symbol "Â°" hold down "ALT" (Left side of space) and type "0176" (ASCI-code for the Â°-symbol.) on the num-keypad. When you release the "ALT" the symbol will apear.


----------



## Mark_K

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bob_711*


hey would i be better to get a h50 with the reservoir mod or the stock h70 cos they would equal about the same price which would keep it cooler,would the reservoir make it any cooler in the h50 i know nothing of water cooling right now just learning










Get an H70. It is a closed system and no maintenance = no hassle


----------



## samhfoley

So would this look about the same, from my BIOS? I have no idea about the advanced timing Controls you mentioned. never tweaked that before

Ai Overclock Tuner - Manual
CPU Ratio Setting - 21
Intel (R) SpeedStep (TM) Tech - disabled
Intel (R) Turbo Mode Tech - disabled
BCLK Frequency - 200
PCIE Fequency - 100
DRAM Frequency - DDR3 - 1603MHz 
DRAM CAS# Latency - 7 DRAM Clock
DRAM RAS# to CAS# Delay -7 DRAM Clock
DRAM RAS# PRE Time - 7 DRAM Clock
DRAM RAS# ACT Time - 20 DRAM Clock

CPU Voltage 1.3125v 
CPU PLL Voltage - 1.8
QPI/DRAM Core Voltage - 1.35v 
IOH Voltage - 1.1
IOH PCIE Voltage - 1.5
ICH Voltage - 1.1
ICH Voltage - 1.1

DRAM Bus Voltage - 1.66v
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHA - Auto
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHA - Auto
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHB - Auto
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHB - Auto
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHC - Auto
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHC - Auto

Load-Line Calibration - Enabled
CPU Differential Amplitude - Auto
CPU Clock Skew - Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum - disabled
IOH Clock Skew - Auto
PCIE Spread Spectrum - disabled


----------



## samhfoley

How about these?

C1E Support
Hardware Prefetcher
Adjacent Cache Line Prefetch
Intel (R) Virtualization Tech
CPU TM Function
Execute Disable Bit
Intel (R) HT Technology
A20M
Intel (R) SpeedStep (TM) Tech
Intel (R) C-STATE Tech


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samhfoley*


How about these?

C1E Support
Hardware Prefetcher
Adjacent Cache Line Prefetch
Intel (R) Virtualization Tech
CPU TM Function
Execute Disable Bit
Intel (R) HT Technology
A20M
Intel (R) SpeedStep (TM) Tech
Intel (R) C-STATE Tech



http://www.overclock.net/8850746-post5.html

http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/695802-asus-p6td-deluxe-core-i7-930-a.html


----------



## samhfoley

Cheers, thanks I'll have a go. SO far though my H70 is not giving me much better cooling than my Mugen2 did before the install. Disappointing to say the least. I hope that I am doing something wrong and that this is not the extent of its true cooling power....


----------



## samhfoley

When he talks about lowering his voltages until he loses stability, he means just these?

CPU Voltage............................[1.325]
CPU PLL Voltage........................[1.80]
QPI/DRAM Core Voltage..................[1.35]

or everything??

4 should be easy for you, i have that chip and a similar mo-bo

i have put my bios template up for you 
i'm at 4.2 but you can just lower the bclk to 191, multi of 21, ran @ 15xx (i can't remember exact number its about 1500) and then lower my voltages until you loose stability...Don't forget to set your ram timings!

Ai Overclock Tuner.....................[Manual]
CPU Ratio Setting......................[21.0]
Intel(r) SpeedStep(tm) Tech............[Disabled]
Xtreme Phase Full Power Mode...........[Enabled]
BCLK Frequency.........................[200]
PCIE Frequency.........................[101]
DRAM Frequency.........................[DDR3-1603MHz]
UCLK Frequency.........................[3609MHz]
QPI Link Data Rate.....................[7218MT/s]

CPU Voltage Control....................[Manual]
CPU Voltage............................[1.325]
CPU PLL Voltage........................[1.80]
QPI/DRAM Core Voltage..................[1.35]
IOH Voltage............................[1.30]
IOH PCIE Voltage.......................[1.50]
ICH Voltage............................[1.40]
ICH PCIE Voltage.......................[1.50]
DRAM Bus Voltage.......................[1.64]
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHA...........[Auto]
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHA...........[Auto]
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHB...........[Auto]
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHB...........[Auto]
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHC...........[Auto]
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHC...........[Auto]

Load-Line Calibration..................[Enabled]
CPU Differential Amplitude.............[900mV]
CPU Clock Skew.........................[Delay 300ps]
CPU Spread Spectrum....................[Disabled]
IOH Clock Skew.........................[Auto]
PCIE Spread Spectrum...................[Disabled]

C1E Support............................[Disabled]
Hardware Prefetcher....................[Enabled]
Adjacent Cache Line Prefetch...........[Enabled]
Intel(r) Virtualization Tech...........[Disabled]
CPU TM Function........................[Enabled]
Execute Disable Bit....................[Enabled]
Intel(r) HT Technology.................[Enabled]
Active Processor Cores.................[All]
A20M...................................[Disabled]
Intel(r) SpeedStep(tm) Tech............[Disabled]
Intel(r) C-STATE Tech..................[Disabled]


----------



## samhfoley

tried those settings and it was a no-go, 
0X00000124 Raised QPI/DRAM Core Voltage..................[1.35] to 1.37

Booted to Windows, but temps are high even at idle


----------



## alancsalt

Cpu PLL volts AFAIK should be left where they are or maybe raised a tad, more the CPU voltage (vcore), and then the QPI/DRAM that should be lowered till instability encountered, then raised a notch or two - my QPI/DRAM seems ok at 2.95 but mobos are not all the same.

Whatever works for you...

There are plenty of guys here who know more than me ...... so if I've got something wrong.....


----------



## samhfoley

Thanks, I am happy with any and all feedback because you all know a lot more than me at this juncture. Thanks for the advice.


----------



## alancsalt

Temps do seem too high.

I just went back through your posts. I don't know if you got answers in your CPU damage thread that has some of the same posts you have here...

With seating your pump/water block - you are supposed to have the screws loose to even be able to turn it. Then you have to get your ridges and dents on the ring and pump lined up and centered. Then you do each screw up a little at a time, evenly, until they are all tight. You did it that way? If not, do it again that way.

You are confident the pump is at 100% speed? You found that in bios? No "Auto"? Otherwise get an adapter plug that lets you plug it into a 12v plug from yr PSU. At least then you are sure. I think it's your 1383rpm though, which is close to the 1400-1450 rating. They say expect plus or minus 10% (I think)

Where are your fan and pump plugs connected? What header for each one?

Best to sort the temps before overclocking.


----------



## samhfoley

Yeah I couldn't get anything to run stable at 4.2. Down to 4.0 now. DPU still 39-46 C at 1% load. AS for the 2 fans on either side of the radiator, they are both plugged into the Y converter supplied by Corsair, and then connected to CPU_FAN on the P6TD Deluxe MB. The other plug is running to PWR_FAN.

I had a problem with the screws and I also figured out I was using the wrong adaptors/inserts. I redid it today, twice. Once I think I applied too much heatsink compound trying to cover the whole CPU. The 2nd time I just added a pea sized blob on the middle of the cpu and then installed the H70 over the top of it without spreading it.

My H70 is set up to blow air out of the case.


----------



## alancsalt

That Sys_fan @ 3750rpm, what's that? A case fan?

Yeah, it is a bit of a puzzle to assemble if you've never seen one.

Turning off hyperthreading will lower your temps, but you shouldn't have to.


----------



## samhfoley

yes, the H70 is set to exhaust out the rear panel of the P183. There is another case can above that in the top panel of the case. Another Scythe AP-15


----------



## samhfoley

Just curious, will my RAM Disk effect my O/C in any way? I don't think so, but just trying to find every possible culprit


----------



## samhfoley

How about my thermal paste? I am using GC Extreme now, but I have 2 other types coming in the mail next week, LIQUID Pro+CS LIQUID Pro and IC Diamond 7

Think they'll make a difference?


----------



## alancsalt

I'm not really up on thermal paste. I know the Shin-Etsu the Corsairs come with is a top paste, that MX-3 and TX-3 are good, but beyond that ... Diamond 7 sounds good, because diamond is meant to be a great conductor AFAIK.. Try a Google, but usually you're only talking a degree or two at best.

The backing plate is on evenly? I keep thinking it has to be something to do with the mounting.


----------



## samhfoley

Yeah I am thinking so as well. I have always had trouble mounting heatsinks/fans. I am supposed to turn the screws all the way down until they stop turning, but not crank on them right? I set the bracket with each screw turned 1/2 to 1 rotation to set the bracket. I inserted the cold plate onto the cpu (which had the pea sized grease spot in the center of the cpu) and turned it clockwise, lining up the restrictor plates and the cold plate. Then I turned each screw 2-3 rotations and then moved in a clockwise rotation until the screws were all tight.


----------



## samhfoley

Those power plugs are all in the right spots?

alright, off to bed here in Japan, back to work in the morning. Let me know if you think of anything else I can try.


----------



## alancsalt

Should be, and the speedfan readings seem right. Thats why I wondered about the backing to the mount, behind the motherboard, whether that was sitting right, because if your screws were loose, you shouldn't have had a lot of trouble turning the pump/water block into position.


----------



## samhfoley

no I was confused about how to put it on, but now I know how to put it on right. I have no idea what has gone wrong...too tight? Too much thermal paste... no idea... off to bed


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samhfoley*


How about my thermal paste? I am using GC Extreme now, but I have 2 other types coming in the mail next week, LIQUID Pro+CS LIQUID Pro and IC Diamond 7

Think they'll make a difference?


I personally like OCZ Freeze cause its not real thick like most pastes and spreads quite nicely under pressure. I've also used MX-2 which I like as well but its a thicker paste. MX-2 yielded similar load temps as OCZ Freeze. I've also tried IC Diamond 7 as well but its so thick it I found it a bit difficult to work with. I just got my Shin-Etsu G751 paste in the mail but haven't used it yet. According to all the reviews/test its supposed to be the top paste out right now.


----------



## Afromee

Hi

Sorry for interrupting the current conversation.

I have some problems with my H70. The temps i'm getting is a little bit worse than my TRUE. So i took it off and here is a picture of how the TIM looks.

Can anyone tell me if what i'm seeing is how its suppose to look.

I removed the cooler straight out.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Afromee* 
Hi

Sorry for interrupting the current conversation.

I have some problems with my H70. The temps i'm getting is a little bit worse than my TRUE. So i took it off and here is a picture of how the TIM looks.

Can anyone tell me if what i'm seeing is how its suppose to look.

I removed the cooler straight out.

Looks like too much tim to me. Is that the tim that came on it or did you reapply it yourself? Too much tim is just as bad for temps as using too little


----------



## Afromee

Yes , i reapplied the tim myself. Do you think to much tim could cause the H70 to be worse than a TRUE?


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Afromee* 
Yes , i reapplied the tim myself. Do you think to much tim could cause the H70 to be worse than a TRUE?

Yes too much tim can def cause worse temps.

This is a quick run with IBT using my H50 push/pull with 2 CM R4 fans and a 25mm shroud on the push fan exhausting air out of the back of my Antec 300 case. Ambient temps are 20*c. Temps are a bit warmer than I'd like to see at my vcore but then again nothing heats up a cpu like IBT. Considering my oc I think its doing a pretty good job. On long Prime95 stress tests my max load temps hover in the upper 50's and touch 61*c occasionally.










Heres my H50 push/shroud/rad/pull installed in my Antec 300 with the CM R4's










I'd be interested to some others IBT temps with the H50/H70.


----------



## Satellitehead

I have about 5 or 6 of these laying around so i slapped some on do you think they are best fans for the set up or should i go smaller.


----------



## Afromee

If you had to say, how much would perfectly applied tim differ in temps over "not perfectly" applied tim.

Where "not perfectly" applied tim would either be using to much or to little.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Afromee* 
If you had to say, how much would perfectly applied tim differ in temps over "not perfectly" applied tim.

Where "not perfectly" applied tim would either be using to much or to little.

I'm not sure exactly but I've done quite a few reseats on my H50 in my day and have seen up to a 3* (load temps) difference in some cases using the same brand tim. Mounting pressure and ambient temps will make a difference too but from the looks of your pic you it looked like you had some decent pressure to squeeze the tim out and over the side of the cpu.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Afromee* 
Yes , i reapplied the tim myself. Do you think to much tim could cause the H70 to be worse than a TRUE?

I went from a lapped TRUE to an H70 and my temperatures definitely improved across the board (both idle and load).


----------



## DJ4g63t

My temps only dropped 2*c with my H50 over my lapped dark knight cooler in push/pull. I was hoping for a bit more but all well 2* is 2* lol.


----------



## Afromee

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
I went from a lapped TRUE to an H70 and my temperatures definitely improved across the board (both idle and load).

Intake or exhaust ?

My load temps are way better with the H70 than the TRUE(10 odd *C). But the idle temps increase by about 3*C, and ofc since you never really get to full load temps the average is worse overall.

I had my fans in exhaust with my case open comparing them so the ambient temps would have been the same in both cases(i'm talking about the air going into the intake fan of the coolers).

My ambient temps are around 29-32*C atm.Summer time in South Africa, joy =(

Do you think a proper tim appliance would see the H70 beat the TRUE @ idle ? In my case.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Afromee* 
Intake or exhaust ?

My load temps are way better with the H70 than the TRUE(10 odd *C). But the idle temps increase by about 3*C, and ofc since you never really get to full load temps the average is worse overall.

I had my fans in exhaust with my case open comparing them so the ambient temps would have been the same in both cases(i'm talking about the air going into the intake fan of the coolers).

My ambient temps are around 29-32*C atm.Summer time in South Africa, joy =(

Do you think a proper tim appliance would see the H70 beat the TRUE @ idle ? In my case.


Dam your ambient temps are killing you no matter what cooler you use. Idle temps don't mean squat I wouldn't sweat a few degree's difference there. Load temps are the most important. I saw a few degree decrease in load temps after installing my H50 over my dark knight air cooler but I really only saw that drop in temps during heavy long stress testing. During everyday use load temps were almost identical between my H50 and DK cooler. The H50 def allowed me to push my overclock a bit father than my DK would allow but not by as much as I was expecting.


----------



## Robilar

My idle and load temps dropped going to the H70.


----------



## Afromee

Ye, i guess your right , just doesn't seem worth upgrading to a better cooler when most of the time my temp meter is telling me i made a downgrade.

Tomorrow i'll try the H70 again with little less tim, see what difference that makes.

Otherwise i might have to consider lapping the H70, if you look at the picture you will see its only the middle part that got nice contact, the outer rims of the circle seems to have to much tim still there.


----------



## samhfoley

OK another day and another go around at the H70. Re-Seated with less thermal paste and switched so the air flow is going into the case.

numbers at idle 4.0 GHz
Still too high ya think?


----------



## samhfoley

this is the temps with IntelBurn Test at 4GHz


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samhfoley*


this is the temps with IntelBurn Test at 4GHz












Looking at mine, yes, too high. I have run out of suggestions though.


----------



## DJ4g63t

You guys need to post your ambient temps as well. I've noticed that it plays a big factor in load temps with my H50.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


You guys need to post your ambient temps as well. I've noticed that it plays a big factor in load temps with my H50.


24c today. I've got a H50 in Ostraya (Translation: Australia) and he's got a H70 in Japan. I'm summer, he's winter. Doesn't sound that good, does it? 85C under IBT load. I've made all the suggestions for curing it that I can think of.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


24c today.


Those are some mighty nice temps your got there with your ambient temps. Those i7 are notorious for running hot.


----------



## alancsalt

Thanks. That gave me a


----------



## samhfoley

OMG....I think I might have done something....RIGHT for a change. These are my readings now at 4.0 on IntelBurn test

18 degrees outside at the moment


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samhfoley*


OMG....I think I might have done something....RIGHT for a change. These are my readings now at 4.0 on IntelBurn test

18 degrees outside at the moment


Still seem a bit high to me. Here's my i7980x @ 4GHz, ambient 20c.
H70 exhausting with GT fans (1850rpm)
Attachment 179665


----------



## samhfoley

yes, but from where I have been the past 2 days these numbers are much better

Here's 4.2


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samhfoley*


yes, but from where I have been the past 2 days these numbers are much better

Here's 4.2


Why did you clean the stock paste off though? It's one of the best there is


----------



## samhfoley

Do you think it could by the Scythe AP-15's that aren't cooling the H70 enough??


----------



## samhfoley

This last time I took both of the AP-15's and ran them through the Y jack supplied with the H/70 and then ran them through an adapter straight to the Power Supply. I did the same thing with the main H70 unit.


----------



## pedrosa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *samhfoley* 
Do you think it could by the Scythe AP-15's that aren't cooling the H70 enough??

They are good fans. Is your h70 block seated tightly? If you can twist it easily you need to tighten the screws a bit more. I had to give mine an extra tighten as i was getting high temps when i first installed it.


----------



## samhfoley

just the opposite. IN the past, numerous times I installed the H70 I tightedned the screws down to resistance failure. This time I stopped just prior and got better temps. Maybe I'll give it a couple more twists each and see what happens. The little female inserts into the back plate keep popping out of their respective grooves when I try and screw in the H70, I think that might have also been giving me fits


----------



## EliasAlucard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Darco19* 
I'm in!


















Dude, your radiator needs some dust cleaning!


----------



## samhfoley

AFter tightening the H70, same results as before


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *samhfoley* 
After tightening the H70, same results as before

It's a definite improvement, but still not as good as it could be. I don't know what else to suggest though.


----------



## samhfoley

Yeah I am probably done screwing with it until my other thermal grease arrives in the mail this week. See if wither of them does any better.


----------



## Robilar

I'm a little surprised at the high idle temps being shown in this thead. At 4ghz with my chip, my idles are mid 30's and under prime high 50's.

Despite being uncertain if I got it installed cleanly (I found the mounting process to be very finicky), the temperatures speak for themselves.

FYI, my room ambient is 23C


----------



## jadenx2

what kind of temp difference is there if i were to get AP-15s for my H50?


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *samhfoley* 
Yeah I am probably done screwing with it until my other thermal grease arrives in the mail this week. See if wither of them does any better.

You might just have a hot chip. Its not common but its not unheard of either. I battled the same issues with my old E8500 C0. That thing at stock clock and voltages would be in the mid 60's after an IBT run. I reseated my coolers over a dozen times on that chip with all different TIM's and none made more than a 1*c difference. I even lapped it and didn't make much of difference. That C0 chip at 4GHz and low vcore would hit 70* on just a Prime95 run never mind an IBT run lol. I attempted IBT on that chip at 4GHz but I chickened out after seeing temps immediately jump to 74*c







. This new E0 E8500 I have runs waaaay cooler. At stock clocks this E0 barely breaks 50*c on IBT









Quote:


Originally Posted by *jadenx2* 
what kind of temp difference is there if i were to get AP-15s for my H50?

Are you running the stock fan now? I'd say in push pull with those you could see roughly a 2* decrease in load temps (maybe more?) as long as your case has good enough air flow through it. I tried my Panaflow Ultra 38mm fan with a 25mm shroud pushing and a CM R4 pulling and I only saw about a 2*c drop in load temps over my current 2 CM R4's and shroud setup. That Panaflow was way too loud and wasn't worth the 2*c drop to me. On a side note I never ran my H50 with the stock fan so I can't compare it to anything. I heard its not the greatest but its def not that bad either.


----------



## xstasy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jadenx2*


what kind of temp difference is there if i were to get AP-15s for my H50?


I dont think you will see a significant drop in temps, prolly 2c-3c at best. They are popular for the amount of airflow and noise ratio


----------



## samhfoley

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t* 
You might just have a hot chip. Its not common but its not unheard of either. I battled the same issues with my old E8500 C0. That thing at stock clock and voltages would be in the mid 60's after an IBT run. I reseated my coolers over a dozen times on that chip with all different TIM's and none made more than a 1*c difference. I even lapped it and didn't make much of difference. That C0 chip at 4GHz and low vcore would hit 70* on just a Prime95 run never mind an IBT run lol. I attempted IBT on that chip at 4GHz but I chickened out after seeing temps immediately jump to 74*c







. This new E0 E8500 I have runs waaaay cooler. At stock clocks this E0 barely breaks 50*c on IBT









You are right, I may have a hot chip, but it wasn't cheap enough that I want to run out and change it anytime soon either. Looks like I can run a stable 4.2 albeit a bit warmer than I'd like. I'll keep fiddling with it.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
I'm a little surprised at the high idle temps being shown in this thead. At 4ghz with my chip, my idles are mid 30's and under prime high 50's.

Despite being uncertain if I got it installed cleanly (I found the mounting process to be very finicky), the temperatures speak for themselves.

FYI, my room ambient is 23C

After 4GHz it can only get hotter, and you may be more fortunate than most with your processor. Maybe some have not installed as well as you too.

At 4.2GHz, with my H50 (not h70) at idle and running prime mine is hotter than yours. If it was my girlfriend I'd be happy, but it's a computer, so you are either luckier than most of us, or better at it.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


After 4GHz it can only get hotter, and you may be more fortunate than most with your processor. Maybe some have not installed as well as you too.

At 4.2GHz, with my H50 (not h70) at idle and running prime mine is hotter than yours. If it was my girlfriend I'd be happy, but it's a computer, so you are either luckier than most of us, or better at it.




















Probably luck...

I've had 3 gold stepping processors in a row (a crazy low VID Q9650, a golden I7 920 D0 and a 980x that I sold for $150 more than I paid for it). This 950 so far has been decent but actually needs more vcore for 4ghz than the i7 920 I just sold. However it has much lower idle and load temps at the same clock speed (even though the vcore is higher). In fact, of all my i7 chips (and I have several), it has the lowest idle and load temps I have seen.

That said, I was actually fairly certain that I screwed up the install. It was difficult to get the block mounted and aligned correctly under the mounting ring. Looks like it worked out ok though.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*











Probably luck...

I've had 3 gold stepping processors in a row (a crazy low VID Q9650, a golden I7 920 D0 and a 980x that I sold for $150 more than I paid for it). This 950 so far has been decent but actually needs more vcore for 4ghz than the i7 920 I just sold. However it has much lower idle and load temps at the same clock speed (even though the vcore is higher). In fact, of all my i7 chips (and I have several), it has the lowest idle and load temps I have seen.

That said, I was actually fairly certain that I screwed up the install. It was difficult to get the block mounted and aligned correctly under the mounting ring. Looks like it worked out ok though.


I just noticed in your CPU-Z pic, you have HT off, which gives about a 10C reduction in temps, but your temps would still be considered low.


----------



## JL421

I just lapped my H70...it passed the razer blade test perfectly...but my temps are now 20C higher...all my fan speeds are correct, my pump is running at full speed, I mounted the fans correctly, and the pump is mounted correctly. Am I going to have to lap my CPU as well to get my temps back under control?


----------



## samhfoley

Getting a little better today with a few small tweaks to vcore and PLL Voltage


----------



## dockiks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JL421*


I just lapped my H70...it passed the razer blade test perfectly...but my temps are now 20C higher...all my fan speeds are correct, my pump is running at full speed, I mounted the fans correctly, and the pump is mounted correctly. Am I going to have to lap my CPU as well to get my temps back under control?


What TIM are you using now? Maybe it's not nearly as good as the original Shin Etsu the H70 shipped with. But 20Â° higher?!? Something's amiss


----------



## BinaryBummer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JL421*


I just lapped my H70...it passed the razer blade test perfectly...but my temps are now 20C higher...all my fan speeds are correct, my pump is running at full speed, I mounted the fans correctly, and the pump is mounted correctly. Am I going to have to lap my CPU as well to get my temps back under control?


Oh that has to pickle..... I was wondering about mine too. I have a Asetek LCLC 120mm that I lapped and I got this H50 now and when I lapped it my temps were not much better then the Asetek model, I also niticed on the H50 that the base plate looks like a seam where the copper was pressed together making a difference in the lapping.

I may take mine down and do the Razor test too. I may have to lap the CPU as well but I hope to avoid this.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samhfoley*


Getting a little better today with a few small tweaks to vcore and PLL Voltage


I'm getting away with 1.3125v for cpu in bios, which shows as 1.28V at idle in CPU-Z


----------



## samhfoley

Yeah I cannot go any lower than 1.325v either
PLL I have left unchanged throughout at 180
QPI/DRAM I cannot get below 1.375


----------



## JL421

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dockiks*


What TIM are you using now? Maybe it's not nearly as good as the original Shin Etsu the H70 shipped with. But 20Â° higher?!? Something's amiss










I'm using AS5...not much different from the Shin Etsu, and definitely not 20C worse.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JL421* 
I'm using AS5...not much different from the Shin Etsu, and definitely not 20C worse.

Shin Etsu = zero cure time or basically let it heat to full temp then cool once

AS5 = 200 hour cure time. So in that respect there is a big difference.


----------



## Al plants Corn

Just got my H50 installed. Can you plug the fans/pump into fan headers on the mobo or use molex?


----------



## Magus2727

you can do either, if you plug it into the header pin on the MB make sure you go into the BIOS and turn of "auto adjust" voltage so its always running max.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Shin Etsu = zero cure time or basically let it heat to full temp then cool once

AS5 = 200 hour cure time. So in that respect there is a big difference.

Even so after the AS5 burns in its usually only a 4-5*c decrease in temps if that not a 20* drop. Somethings def going on there. I'd recommend a reseat and take a look at how the current tim has spread out. Maybe you didn't use enough or used too much. There is only one way to find out.


----------



## JL421

Well I lapped my CPU as well...good news...lapping both a H70 and a CPU with a little dot of AS5 in the center of the CPU results in a ~10C temp drop at load. I was sitting at 80-83C LinX load unlapped, now I'm at 72-74C load.


----------



## samhfoley

New Thermal paste arrived today, IC Diamond 7. Best readings yet.


----------



## alancsalt

That is your best yet, I agree. 
Is that still at 18Â°c ambient?


----------



## samhfoley

21.6 ambient


----------



## [nK]Sharp

I get sub 40c idle (have no clue what my ambient is) on my cpu. Only good thing about Canada is that this time of year I have good ambient temps.


----------



## Archer S

hmm

i read all the time that people idle at ambient temperatures. I dont understand how. Even when running stock clocks i idle 10 degrees above my ambient, even running push pull GT15

Maybe time for another reseat?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Archer S* 
hmm

i read all the time that people idle at ambient temperatures. I dont understand how. Even when running stock clocks i idle 10 degrees above my ambient, even running push pull GT15

Maybe time for another reseat?

Usually it is a few degrees above ambient but close....and usually is us AMD CPU users that you see with the lower temps also since our CPU's run much cooler to begin with.

There is also big variances in everyone's setup you might have the same case, motherboard, cpu, cpu cooler as someone else but if you are using different case fans or live in a warmer or more humid part of the world then of course you won't be able to get the same temps.


----------



## DJ4g63t

In all honesty idle temps don't mean much and shouldn't be taken too seriously unless they are ridiculously high lol. My E0 E8500 never idles below 39*c no matter what my ambient temps are. I've had ambient temps range from 15*c up to 25*c and vcore from 1.25v up to 1.45v and my chip idles at 39*c either way. My load temps are great so I don't sweat it. From the little research I've done on idle temps I've read that the core temp diodes are calibrated for load temps not idle temps. If your load temps are good then I wouldn't worry much about idle temps.


----------



## grillinman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Archer S* 
hmm

i read all the time that people idle at ambient temperatures. I dont understand how. Even when running stock clocks i idle 10 degrees above my ambient, even running push pull GT15

Maybe time for another reseat?

I always idle a little over ambient. Maybe it's my case set up but my load temps are always great. To me Idle = Not Important (unless it's like 50 lol)


----------



## MicahFett

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Archer S* 
hmm

i read all the time that people idle at ambient temperatures. I dont understand how. Even when running stock clocks i idle 10 degrees above my ambient, even running push pull GT15

Maybe time for another reseat?

Do you have spare TIM? If not, don't pull the pump and try to reseat; you'll just make it worse.

People getting worked up about idle temps is kind of a joke. It's not idle temps that you get the H50/H70 for, it's load temps. If your load temps are too high, then maybe a reseat is a good idea, but reseating for idle temps? Why waste the time?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Archer S*


hmm

i read all the time that people idle at ambient temperatures. I dont understand how. Even when running stock clocks i idle 10 degrees above my ambient, even running push pull GT15

Maybe time for another reseat?


That would be AMD - a known inaccuracy I think. It's load temps that are important.

Also people using DVID and EIST (Gigabyte's names for it) will have lower idle than ppls with no eist and a straight up vcore.

Edit: Wow, what a response!


----------



## Archer S

uuh i load at 64 degrees after 10 passes of linx at 3.5ghz. I wanted to hit 4ghz when i got the cooler though.

i have spare paste around.

EDIT

Quote:



Why waste the time?


im in high school, some nights i got nothing but time.


----------



## zombo

Does it matter if the radiator is mounted with the pipes on the top or bottom? will it affect flow or anything?


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Archer S*


uuh i load at 64 degrees after 10 passes of linx at 3.5ghz. I wanted to hit 4ghz when i got the cooler though.

i have spare paste around.

EDIT

im in high school, some nights i got nothing but time.


If I'm not mistaken those are good temps for an i5 running linx especially at your oc. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think I remember guys saying anything under 80*c in linx is safe for an i5. I may be wrong I've haven't researched the i5's too extensively yet. I would think that if I am indeed correct you def have some room to up your oc


----------



## Archer S

Quote:



If I'm not mistaken those are good temps for an i5 running linx especially at your oc. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think I remember guys saying anything under 80*c in linx is safe for an i5


WOAH 80C?? linx doesn't mimic normal operation right? the computer runs 24/7 i dont wana push the limit. Is prime 95 a better way to measure temps that my cpu might actually hit during operation? I game a lot but nothing intense like video processing. I was trying to keep it under 70 in prime 95 under load but it seems the second i add the tiniest amount of volts the temps just rocket up.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


That would be AMD - a known inaccuracy I think. It's load temps that are important.

Also people using DVID and EIST (Gigabyte's names for it) will have lower idle than ppls with no eist and a straight up vcore.

Edit: Wow, what a response!


Only the x6 AMD CPU's have the inaccuracy of reported temps -10C from their true temps. It doesn't just effect their idle temps though it is their load temps too.

Have seen reports of a few new firmware for Asus and MSI boards that have fixed the temp inaccuracy but nothing confirmed in a non beta firmware.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Archer S*


WOAH 80C?? linx doesn't mimic normal operation right? the computer runs 24/7 i dont wana push the limit. Is prime 95 a better way to measure temps that my cpu might actually hit during operation? I game a lot but nothing intense like video processing. I was trying to keep it under 70 in prime 95 under load but it seems the second i add the tiniest amount of volts the temps just rocket up.


The purpose of Linx and even Prime95 is to access the stability of your system not simulate normal operation. You use either program to make sure your system isn't going to BSOD and restart because of an unstable OC or even because of a bad seat of your CPU cooler at stock speeds.


----------



## Archer S

Quote:



The purpose of Linx and even Prime95 is to access the stability of your system not simulate normal operation. You use either program to make sure your system isn't going to BSOD and restart because of an unstable OC or even because of a bad seat of your CPU cooler at stock speeds.


okay i see. So anything below 80 in linx is fine for the i5? sweet. going to try to push 4ghz tomorrow.

Still dont understand how some poeple with the same cpu and cooler can have 4ghz and load at 60 degrees after linx. ive seen pics of that all over this forum back when i thought something was wrong with my H50.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Archer S*


okay i see. So anything below 80 in linx is fine for the i5? sweet. going to try to push 4ghz tomorrow.

Still dont understand how some poeple with the same cpu and cooler can have 4ghz and load at 60 degrees after linx. ive seen pics of that all over this forum back when i thought something was wrong with my H50.


I would do some more reading on i5 max safe temps just to be sure I am correct before you go pushing it too far lol. Here's two pretty active oc'ers opinions on the i5 temps
http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...-i5-750-a.html

No real world everyday programs will push your cpu temps like linx so if your hitting a safe temp using that then it will be more than good to go for everyday use.

There are more variables to cpu temps than just the cpu cooler. Ambient temps and case temps can make a big difference. If your case has poor airflow then your cpu temps will suffer. You'll just end up pushing all the hot case air through the rad which isn't good for cooling the cpu.


----------



## Archer S

yeah my case airflow isnt the greatest. The antec 902 stock front fans can barely push any air through the dust filters even when theyre clean. I ended up adding another fan on one of the drive cages (so 2 fans on one drive cage) just to get some decent air into the case. That lowered my temps a whole 4 degrees on load. Im seriously thinking of replacing the GT15 on the rad with 2 ultra kazes and putting the GTs in the front just to suck air through the filters. Will need a fan controller though.

80C in linx seems to be just fine i read the link you posted and did some more searches on the forum.

thanks for the help.


----------



## samhfoley

Got a BSOD today, anyone know what 0x00000001A is? Thx


----------



## alancsalt

"memory management error", but a lot of these error codes are not very specific.

It might refer to your qpi, your ram volts, or even ram settings, or it could be something entirely different. Anyway, they are probably the first things to check.


----------



## zombo

Does it matter if the radiator is mounted with the pipes on the top or bottom? will it affect flow or anything? ???


----------



## alancsalt

If it made much difference I think we'd know it by now, so no, I'd doubt it. Mine are on top because I thought it looked better.


----------



## samhfoley

May have found a winner... New temps using LiquidPro. That's even lowering the QPI back to where I was getting the 0x00000001A error before. See if I can go lower than that. Promising....


----------



## alancsalt

Looks like a breakthrough!

You gonna post that at the i7-950 Overclockers Club?


----------



## samhfoley

don't have my batch number and I am not about to unseat the H/70 to look at the chip.


----------



## alancsalt

The batch number is not a strict requirement but the cpu-z screen is. Just be sure to replace your computer name with your Overclock.net user name when you validate.

Hey, you already did!


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *zombo* 
Does it matter if the radiator is mounted with the pipes on the top or bottom? will it affect flow or anything? ???

It would only matter if the rad was NOT filled completely,...in which case having the tubes at the bottom would ensure air free operation.


----------



## eternal7trance

I just put 2 akasa vipers and a shroud on my h70 last night. Will be doing some tests tonight to see how it does.


----------



## zombo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *clubfoot*


It would only matter if the rad was NOT filled completely,...in which case having the tubes at the bottom would ensure air free operation.


Interesting, i was under the impression the corsiar h50 had a small amount of air in it?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zombo*


Interesting, i was under the impression the corsiar h50 had a small amount of air in it?


Hmmmmm... Mine doesn't gurgle, but some say theirs do. It would make sense to put pipes at bottom just as a precaution. Good point.


----------



## LastBucsfan

About to become an H70 owner. Just waiting on UPS to deliver the package, my PC is already all apart for when it gets here lol. Will post pics if all goes well! I just hope I don't have any fitment issues with my case and mobo.


----------



## samhfoley

Can anyone tell me what this dmp file says? Awoke this morning to find the PC had shut down while I was asleep. It says something about my browser Opera, but I am not sure what else, thx in advance.


----------



## Magus2727

well this is the H50/H70 thread... so I dont think those that are browsing this thread would be as savy in answering this specific question. It looks like you have a driver issue or a bad registry file possibly.

You can try running some sort of registry back up and cleaner (CCleaner 3.0) or what have you installed within the last 48 hours?


----------



## samhfoley

sorry I thought it might be related as that's all I have been doing this week is installing and reinstalling my H70


----------



## Digigami

Does anyone know if the fluid in a H50 has any glycol in it? (Won't freeze)


----------



## reaper~

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Digigami*


Does anyone know if the fluid in a H50 has any glycol in it? (Won't freeze)


Yup. From Corsair's H50 FAQ:

*Q: Whatâ€™s the liquid inside the unit?
A: The liquid inside the H50 is distilled water with Propylene Glycol added to prevent corrosion and organic build-up.*


----------



## Digigami

Awesome thanks! I have mine ghetto modded sucking cold air through the window. It's getting cold out and I wouldn't want it to freeze up. 45 deg full load is pretty nice though


----------



## snorbaard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arbalest* 
My *NEW* and *IMPROVED H50 Mod* -- _*Tube Mod + Northbridge Loop + T-Line/Fillport*

Sorry for the terrible pics... All I have is my Blackberry ATM.









_



























Hope you enjoy these! Still lots of tiny bubbles as the system is still bleeding









*Tutorial should be done by Monday or so.* Have a lot of stuff to get done this weekend.

-Arbalest











Hey I couldn't find this tutorial anywhere?

What would be temp difference of cpu and northbridge after adding a northbridge block in the H50 loop? I can't find results.


----------



## alancsalt

snorbaard, that looks quite remarkable! Amazin'!

My H50 proved a stepping stone to "real" water! I got a 12Â°C improvement in Prime95 load temps, from 76Â° to 64Â° for a 4.2GHz overclocked i7-950










Fans are on the other side.










But it cost me $AU600.00


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *samhfoley* 
Can anyone tell me what this dmp file says? Awoke this morning to find the PC had shut down while I was asleep. It says something about my browser Opera, but I am not sure what else, thx in advance.

You were testing out lower qpi? I am thinking fail.


----------



## sendblink23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *samhfoley* 
Can anyone tell me what this dmp file says? Awoke this morning to find the PC had shut down while I was asleep. It says something about my browser Opera, but I am not sure what else, thx in advance.

I think its an un-stable system overclock or settings used... in other words change your current settings to make it more stable.. or else you would have never crashed with the system at idle for hours(on your case overnight)


----------



## samhfoley

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sendblink23* 
I think its an un-stable system overclock or settings used... in other words change your current settings to make it more stable.. or else you would have never crashed with the system at idle for hours(on your case overnight)

I am going to see how it goes tonight. I got a report back on 4 mini dump files and 3 of them were software/driver related. I'll see how it looks in the morning before tweaking it any further


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *samhfoley* 
I am going to see how it goes tonight. I got a report back on 4 mini dump files and 3 of them were software/driver related. I'll see how it looks in the morning before tweaking it any further

Sam, I suspect you have to raise qpi. IRQ less than equal - as far as I can remember is a memory management error, and the programs mentioned are just what happened to be running when the error occurred.


----------



## Sgtbash

Guys im in the market for a H50 for an upcoming rig with a QX6800 in it. What can I expect?


----------



## snorbaard

This is an incredibly long thread, please stay on topic...

Anyone who has done a H50 mod with a NB waterblock in the loop, what was the temps before and after?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *snorbaard*


This is an incredibly long thread, please stay on topic...

Anyone who has done a H50 mod with a NB waterblock in the loop, what was the temps before and after?


I have not seen anyone with a NB waterblock mod.

Even if there was they would have to have the same motherboard as you and the same ambients as you to be able make a comparison for what you would get for temps.

There are many boards that NB barely heats up some have issues with NB overheating so there could be BIG variances there.


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:



Originally Posted by *samhfoley*


Got a BSOD today, anyone know what 0x00000001A is? Thx


I was getting that a lot before, needed to increase vcore


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *snorbaard*


This is an incredibly long thread, please stay on topic...

Anyone who has done a H50 mod with a NB waterblock in the loop, what was the temps before and after?


Only thing I could suggest is a pm to Arbalest, as he seems to be the only one who has done this.


----------



## samhfoley

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shapiror06*


I was getting that a lot before, needed to increase vcore


What a finicky process this is. You'd think that after stress testing the settings and clearing that hurdle that idling at night while I sleep wouldn't cause the BSOD..... OK I found some new settings that appear to be working. I'll see how it goes from here.


----------



## alancsalt

"Idling is the new Stress Testing"

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte...450fsb-82.html

That and the next page seem to suggest either enabling C1 or EIST, or disabling them if you're using them, could solve this. You are not the first to have this problem.


----------



## tomaso1z

...
Bad comments welcome


----------



## Sgtbash

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tomaso1z* 







...
Bad comments welcome

Well surely thats blowing lots of warm air into the case? Why not put it on the rear outtake?


----------



## Mudfrog

Hey guys.. just replaced my Hyper N 520 with an H50. It took a lot of of tweaking but I'm really happy with the performance so far. I ordered some 120mm Blademasters to use in a Push / Pull setup, they will be here tomorrow so I need to figure out the best setup. I have a Storm Scout case with 2x 140mm intakes in the front, 1x 140mm exhaust up top, 2x 120mm intakes on the sidepanel and the 120mm exhaust on the radiator of the H50 pushing out the back.

So far I plan on |case|pull|radiator|push|. I have heard I should use a shroud. What benefit would this give me and where should I put it in the above setup? I have the 120mm case fan that I cut the wires on to mount the H50 so I don't mind gutting it if it will help out.


----------



## Wingzero

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sgtbash* 
Guys im in the market for a H50 for an upcoming rig with a QX6800 in it. What can I expect?

A lot of hassle mounting and awesome temps.


----------



## NguyenAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tomaso1z* 
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_jno6guJMXuk/TN0PHz-XSKI/AAAAAAAAARs/Cq3X3ndGtT8/s1600/1600x1200%2Brevs%2Bh50%2Brig.jpg

Bad comments welcome

No exhaust fan?


----------



## LastBucsfan

Here's my new H70. Just added myself to the list:


----------



## MicahFett

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LastBucsfan* 
Here's my new H70. Just added myself to the list:

Um... I'm not familiar with your specific motherboard, but it looks like you have your RAM in the wrong slots on your board. I'm guessing that if you look in your BIOS it would say you're running single channel memory rather than dual channel.

You want your RAM in the first slot of each 2-slot set. See picture.

Edit: Note that in the picture, the red rectangles indicate the sticks of RAM


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tomaso1z*


Bad comments welcome


I can't tell the exact case you have you need to go to your User CP and Add system so we actually know what your working with.

As for the bad comments







Why don't you have an SLI cable between those cards? I wouldn't put the H50 as intake right at the bottom myself since it puts all its hot air right on your video cards. Depending on what case you have you might just move it up just below your CD/DVD drive though so it can blow the hot air basically directly to your back case fan and out not really heating up the rest of your components as much as having it at the bottom and having the hot air on your video cards and of course the rest of the hot air rising up. Oh and you need to add a case fan at the back of course too.


----------



## reaper~

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


As for the bad comments







Why don't you have an SLI cable between those cards?


You can't SLI a GTX480 (top) with a GTX460 (bottom).









He's probably using the bottom card for PhysX.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reaper~*


You can't SLI a GTX480 (top) with a GTX460 (bottom).









He's probably using the bottom card for PhysX.


Ah sorry I don't know the cards just by looks.


----------



## LastBucsfan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MicahFett*


Um... I'm not familiar with your specific motherboard, but it looks like you have your RAM in the wrong slots on your board. I'm guessing that if you look in your BIOS it would say you're running single channel memory rather than dual channel.

You want your RAM in the first slot of each 2-slot set. See picture.

Edit: Note that in the picture, the red rectangles indicate the sticks of RAM


Nope definitely running in dual channel this way. Mine have to be grouped together. Either slots 1 & 2 (orange) or slots 3 & 4 (black) for dual channel. I want to see if I get better results with slots 1 & 2, the only reason I'm in 3 & 4 is because that's the only place they would fit with the old air cooler. With the H70 in now I can trying moving them over.

Here's a CPU validation showing dual channel:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1463437


----------



## esproductions

Just installed my H50







using a dual fan rad right now.

BTW, will this orientation of the CPU block cause air bubbles to ruin the hoses?





































I'm currently idling at around 13-16 degrees C...


----------



## Mudfrog

Just added two blademasters to my H50. I have it in the push pull config. Excellent temps. With an OC from 2.8 to 3.71 (1.4v) my temp does not go over 40c while gaming and in prime95 it topped out at 50c. I'm very pleased.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *esproductions* 
Just installed my H50







using a dual fan rad right now.

BTW, will this orientation of the CPU block cause air bubbles to ruin the hoses?

I'm currently idling at around 13-16 degrees C...

If it's not gurgling there's definitely no problem, and even if it is there may not be. That's the way I had mine, and I had no problems.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mudfrog* 
Just added two blademasters to my H50. I have it in the push pull config. Excellent temps. With an OC from 2.8 to 3.71 (1.4v) my temp does not go over 40c while gaming and in prime95 it topped out at 50c. I'm very pleased.

I'm not very familiar with AMD processors but I've read that there are certain series AMD cpu's that read about 10*c lower than actual core/cpu temps. Of course I can't find the link at the moment but it might be worth looking up to see if your processor falls into that category just to be safe.


----------



## Mudfrog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t* 
I'm not very familiar with AMD processors but I've read that there are certain series AMD cpu's that read about 10*c lower than actual core/cpu temps. Of course I can't find the link at the moment but it might be worth looking up to see if your processor falls into that category just to be safe.

I don't think it does, I just have fairly good cooling now between the HSF and case. With my old Hyper N 520 I would hit as high as 56c. I highly doubt it was really 66c as I would have more than likely fried it.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mudfrog* 
I don't think it does, I just have fairly good cooling now between the HSF and case. With my old Hyper N 520 I would hit as high as 56c. I highly doubt it was really 66c as I would have more than likely fried it.

Yeah your probly right. AMD specs say 62*c is the max for that chip but a lot of guys around here push their chips beyond specs and don't fry them








It was something I came across before so I figured I'd throw it out there. I never realized AMD chips had such low max temps. Looks to me by your temps like you have some room to up that oc


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *esproductions* 
Just installed my H50







using a dual fan rad right now.

I'm currently idling at around 13-16 degrees C...










LOL yeah whatever, close the friggin window!! No one operates with ambient temps of 8 degrees which is probably what you have after you left the window open for awhile to make it look like you had really low idle temps. Stop being a deceptive troll just so that people will think something is wrong with their set-up.


----------



## ph10m

Have you overclocked? I mean, when my room's at 20 degrees I can get my cpu down to 19C idle, OVERCLOCKED, so I dont think these numbers are that false (considering you've left your pc for an hour or so)

Note: this is only with APS (active phase shift), the mobo clocks 2 of the cores down to 4x multiplier (about 1ghz) when idle, so temps get lower. And as you have a gigabyte mb, i doubt you could get down to those temps, I think it's 10C off.


----------



## esproductions

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
LOL yeah whatever, close the friggin window!! No one operates with ambient temps of 8 degrees which is probably what you have after you left the window open for awhile to make it look like you had really low idle temps. Stop being a deceptive troll just so that people will think something is wrong with their set-up.









I took that screenshot a few minutes after playing SC2 lol. I left my PC idle for an hour and temps drop to 13 or 14 degrees lol. I don't really think they're that accurate because my room temp is 22C... the BIOS reads around 19 or 20.


----------



## esproductions

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ph10m* 
Have you overclocked? I mean, when my room's at 20 degrees I can get my cpu down to 19C idle, OVERCLOCKED, so I dont think these numbers are that false (considering you've left your pc for an hour or so)

Note: this is only with APS (active phase shift), the mobo clocks 2 of the cores down to 4x multiplier (about 1ghz) when idle, so temps get lower. And as you have a gigabyte mb, i doubt you could get down to those temps, I think it's 10C off.

My CPU is OC'd at 3.5 ghz over 2.8 stock.


----------



## Mudfrog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t* 
Yeah your probly right. AMD specs say 62*c is the max for that chip but a lot of guys around here push their chips beyond specs and don't fry them







It was something I came across before so I figured I'd throw it out there. I never realized AMD chips had such low max temps. Looks to me by your temps like you have some room to up that oc









Thought about OC'ng higher but I doubt I'll see much improvement in games as I'm being held back by the 4890. Maybe next year when I get a new GPU that needs the extra power.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *esproductions*


I took that screenshot a few minutes after playing SC2 lol. I left my PC idle for an hour and temps drop to 13 or 14 degrees lol. I don't really think they're that accurate because my room temp is 22C... the BIOS reads around 19 or 20.


You cannot go below your ambient temps unless you are cooling your radiator in a bucket of ice water or liquid nitrogen or something like that. So your temps are definitely not accurate there has been no fix as of yet for the x6 AMD processors for their temps readings you need to take any temps you are getting and add 10C. So yes if you where getting 56C(66C) then you have went past the suggested max of 63C.

So be sure to calculate that into all readings you take/observe and be sure not to fry your CPU that would suck.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ph10m*


Have you overclocked? I mean, when my room's at 20 degrees I can get my cpu down to 19C idle, OVERCLOCKED, so I dont think these numbers are that false (considering you've left your pc for an hour or so)

Note: this is only with APS (active phase shift), the mobo clocks 2 of the cores down to 4x multiplier (about 1ghz) when idle, so temps get lower. And as you have a gigabyte mb, i doubt you could get down to those temps, I think it's 10C off.


Again impossible to go below ambient temps without some external cooling. So if your room is at 20C and you have a temp sensor from your computer reading 19C then there's something wrong there.

I have the same CPU as you and no program can read my CPU temp sensors correctly because of some issue with my motherboard so all programs show 0C for their readings other than the one made by MSI.

I think they just released a new BIOS for my motherboard that fixes that issue but I don't mess with my BIOS unless there is something broke by the current version.


----------



## ph10m

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Again impossible to go below ambient temps without some external cooling. So if your room is at 20C and you have a temp sensor from your computer reading 19C then there's something wrong there.

I have the same CPU as you and no program can read my CPU temp sensors correctly because of some issue with my motherboard so all programs show 0C for their readings other than the one made by MSI.

I think they just released a new BIOS for my motherboard that fixes that issue but I don't mess with my BIOS unless there is something broke by the current version.


Impossible to not go below, but not having it at the exact same or above, as we speak my CPU's at 24 degrees in a roomtemp at 22, comp's been on all day, having a max temperature in HWmonitor at 34 degrees while playing wow.

Whenever I leave my pc for about half an hour or more, the cpu will be just as cold as the room. And by the way, metal or whatever cpu's are made of, will keep their temperatures longer than the air in your room.
In other words: if the cpu gets cooled down, it'll increase temp. slower than the air in your room will.

note: the temps aren't wrong, they're all the same in bios/hwmonitor/speedfan.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *esproductions*


Just installed my H50







using a dual fan rad right now.

BTW, will this orientation of the CPU block cause air bubbles to ruin the hoses?



Nice pics







Looks like you know your way around a camera







Like posted above I think you have some temp sensor issues. I'd do some serious research to make sure you don't push that cpu too far.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ph10m*


Impossible to not go below, but not having it at the exact same or above, as we speak my CPU's at 24 degrees in a roomtemp at 22, comp's been on all day, having a max temperature in HWmonitor at 34 degrees while playing wow.

Whenever I leave my pc for about half an hour or more, the cpu will be just as cold as the room. And by the way, metal or whatever cpu's are made of, will keep their temperatures longer than the air in your room.
In other words: if the cpu gets cooled down, it'll increase temp. slower than the air in your room will.

note: the temps aren't wrong, they're all the same in bios/hwmonitor/speedfan.


Others will back me up there is no way you are going below ambient temps unless your sensors are off/wrong. Metal conducts heat better than air so you got that backwards so that means it will heat up faster than the air in your room not slower. As long as your CPU is on it is producing heat so how is it possible to go below the temperature that it is using to cool itself?










I can show you the same readings in bios/hwmonitor/speedfan it doesn't mean just because they are the same they are right.


----------



## ph10m

thats after 8 hour idle time (came back from work) roomtemp being 20 (might be a couple degrees off, who knows)

You might wanna know that I have a really good airflow, but yeah.


----------



## alancsalt

Doesn't matter that your sensors say that. Sensors are not always right by any means. It's all about the way they measure temps these days - they are not actually measuring temp but distance from failure if I remember correctly, and the gradient back to idle temps from that are rarely correct.

Nowadays temperature is inferred from something that does not actually measure temperature.

Search out threads by that unclewebb that wrote realtemp, and you'll find a detailed explanation of how those so called temps you are seeing are not correct. Manufacturers don't care about accurate idle temps. They are irrelevant to them. They care about failure point, and even the temp they assign that is not necessarily correct.

Here, found it for you.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=179044

I don't know how anyone could believe their processor could be cooler than or only two degrees above ambient without something other than air or water cooling it. It simply isn't possible. You would need dry ice, nitrogen, a water chiller or something similar.

Otherwise yr defying the laws of physics.


----------



## ph10m

As I said earlier, the mb clocks the cpu down to 4x multiplier (about 1ghz) when idle (cool n quiet), when I disabled it, my cpu was running anything between 32-36C, so yeah, it's about a 10 degree difference with it, only idle that is.

By all means, maybe those readings are off as well, but I find around 32+ degrees fairly correct considering 1. my roomtemp, 2. airflow overall, as u see, the mb runs at about the same degrees, it had the same degree whether or not cool n quiet was enabled, but cpu changed significally.

defying the laws of physics? you do know fans will cool down the air (h50's cooled down by fans), means the cpu itself would be able to go under room temperature (bc of the copper plate and water) for some time under prime conditions. As an example (now there's yet to include voltage and stuff like that); you have a glass with a metal part that's cooled down to 10C, you pour water at 20C in this glass, now, don't tell me that the metal would instantly be brought up to above 20C? it'll take a while until the metal would get close to the waters temperature, for then to end up at the same temp), including power would obviously just increase this amount to above the water's temperature, but you hopefully get the idea.

if you say there's an own physic law for CPU's, please tell me would you?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ph10m* 
As I said earlier, the mb clocks the cpu down to 4x multiplier (about 1ghz) when idle (cool n quiet), when I disabled it, my cpu was running anything between 32-36C, so yeah, it's about a 10 degree difference with it, only idle that is.

By all means, maybe those readings are off as well, but I find around 32+ degrees fairly correct considering 1. my roomtemp, 2. airflow overall, as u see, the mb runs at about the same degrees, it had the same degree whether or not cool n quiet was enabled, but cpu changed significally.

defying the laws of physics? you do know fans will cool down the air (h50's cooled down by fans), means the cpu itself would be able to go under room temperature (bc of the copper plate and water) for some time under prime conditions. As an example (now there's yet to include voltage and stuff like that); you have a glass with a metal part that's cooled down to 10C, you pour water at 20C in this glass, now, don't tell me that the metal would instantly be brought up to above 20C? it'll take a while until the metal would get close to the waters temperature, for then to end up at the same temp), including power would obviously just increase this amount to above the water's temperature, but you hopefully get the idea.

if you say there's an own physic law for CPU's, please tell me would you?

Sorry it is not possible you cannot cool your copper plate from your H50 below ambient unless your using some other external cooling. Your logic is flawed. Even check this out.

Hyperphysics Bernoulli Calculator (http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu...pber.html#bcal) and see that you'd need the air moving at an near infinitely high speed to get a pressure drop high enough to drop temps below ambient.


----------



## Artie.Fufkin

I'm interested in getting some water cooling and this seems to be the way to go. Much less figity than a full custom loop. Does it perform as well though?

Also, is it worth paying the extra 50 dollars to get the H70 instead of the H50? I'm looking to OC an i7 to at least 4ghz, hopefully 4.5 maybe although that may be a bit too optimistic.


----------



## alancsalt

Depends how cold it is where you live.
Usually 4 to 4.2GHz is attainable.

H50 vs H70: depends which review you believe. Not a huge difference I think: two fans instead of one, thicker radiator and less bulky pump/heatsink. A bit cooler, but not a lot.


----------



## Carfanatic

If you don't want to add your own fans and don't mind some noise coming from your fans then H70 I think is worth the extra $$. If you already have some fans that would work well for push/pull or you don''t want your cooler to be loud then H50 and buy your own fans. H50 with two Yate Loon medium speed fans would be a good way to go or if you really want quiet fans then Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-15 fans.


----------



## Artie.Fufkin

Is there a certain configuration that is recommended for the fans in relation to the water cooling? Would H50 + extra fans be a similar price to the H70?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Artie.Fufkin* 
Is there a certain configuration that is recommended for the fans in relation to the water cooling? Would H50 + extra fans be a similar price to the H70?

Yes the H50+ fans would be close to the price of the H70. The H70 with the fans that come with it is quite loud though so all depends what you want for your setup. With the H50 and add your own fans you could have a quiet setup and basically because of the better fans the same or better cooling than the H70. The H70 you don't have to mess with ordering separate fans for if you don't mind the noisy 2000rpm fans it comes with.


----------



## Artie.Fufkin

H50 + extra fans sounds the go then. Now to find a case...and off to that forum I go!


----------



## Henrikw92

hmm.. i need some help here. Im getting some new fans for my h50, its either the noiseblocker NB-BlackSilent-XL2 or the Schyte gentle typhoon AP-15. The noiseblocker spins at 1500 rpm max and the gentle typhoon has 1,850 rpm max, but both blow 98m3/h.

Do the gentle typhoons have better static pressure ?


----------



## Mudfrog

I picked up the H50 at Bestbuy for $69. It's on sale right now. $10 each for some blademaster fans (includes shipping). So for $89 I have an awesome cooling solution. I was interested in the H70 at first but that sells for what, $115 if I remember correctly.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Sorry it is not possible you cannot cool your copper plate from your H50 below ambient unless your using some other external cooling. Your logic is flawed. Even check this out.

Hyperphysics Bernoulli Calculator (http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu...pber.html#bcal) and see that you'd need the air moving at an near infinitely high speed to get a pressure drop high enough to drop temps below ambient.

LOL, well put Carfanatic. I'd also like to point out that fast moving air by itself is not cooler it simply removes heat faster but only up to a point because there is an increasing amount of resistance from the radiator fins as the air speed increases. Eventually you'll reach a point where the air is being compressed as more and more of it is trying to go around the fins at the same time. Laws of thermodynamics state that the more you compress air the more heat you add to it. So if I was running air at say supersonic speed through that rad it would likely be red hot. Again all that is to say that it is physically impossible to go below ambient temp without some additional cooling factor thrown it like chilled water or phase change cooling etc. If you're down-clocking to 1 ghz then I can see how you temp would come closer to ambient but it will never go below it.


----------



## Archer S

Problem?


----------



## XtachiX

elaborate?


----------



## grillinman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Archer S*











Problem?


Did it come like that? Is that after removing it from CPU and cleaning? AFAIK the plate is all copper and not just copper coated so I don't think that should be a big deal.


----------



## shapiror06

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Archer S* 









Problem?

No. Just discoloration from heat and the TIM. Lap it and forget about it


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Archer S* 









Problem?

Did you use alcohol to remove the tim? It shouldn't be a big deal either way. By the looks of that pic it doesn't look like its a very smooth surface but it could just be the lighting. I'll take a closer at mine when I get the time to put my new Shin-Etsu tim on but I think I would of noticed if mine looked like that.


----------



## Archer S

thats right after i cleaned it with 99.9% isopropanol.
the problem isn't discoloration, its the giant hideous scratch at the top (or is it a problem? i dont know)


----------



## grillinman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Archer S*


thats right after i cleaned it with 99.9% isopropanol.
the problem isn't discoloration, its the giant hideous scratch at the top (or is it a problem? i dont know)


I don't think the scratch will effect you too much since it looks like that area isn't touching your CPU anyway but you could always lap it if it bothers you.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Archer S*


thats right after i cleaned it with 99.9% isopropanol.
the problem isn't discoloration, its the giant hideous scratch at the top (or is it a problem? i dont know)


I was hoping maybe that was just a shadow but any decent size scratch on the mounting surface isn't good. If it were right down the middle where it would be on top of your cores I'd be pretty concerned but yours looks like its far enough away it probly won't hurt your temps.


----------



## Artie.Fufkin

For the H50, it has been said that it's almost a must to install additional fans to take away the heat. Is there any special configuration that you guys would recommend? Also, how does this fit in with my choice of case. Do I need a certain type of case that can support these fans?


----------



## reaper~

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Artie.Fufkin*


For the H50, it has been said that it's almost a must to install additional fans to take away the heat. Is there any special configuration that you guys would recommend? Also, how does this fit in with my choice of case. Do I need a certain type of case that can support these fans?


First, welcome to OCN.







Second, if you look through this thread, most of the members here have the H50 (or H70) setup using 2 fans in push/pull. Personally, I'd recommend you get 2 Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-15 fans and do a push/pull (intaking). Here's a link to Corsair's H50 supplemental mounting info. As long as you have some good cable management in your case, with decent airflow, then you should be fine.









As for the case, you didn't mention what size are you planning to use (full tower, mid tower, etc), your budget and so on. They can vary from $60 up to $300.. so might wanna give us your budget first.


----------



## Artie.Fufkin

Well as for cases, I've had the coolermaster 932 recommended to me. That's $169 AU and comes with 3 200 mm fans, one 140 mm fan and supports 8 more. How does that sound?

Would the H50 radiator fit in one of those 140 fan slots? I'd then add in push/pull fans either side.


----------



## Artie.Fufkin

Oh, and thank you for the welcome









People have been very kind and helpful in my recent attempts to build a new PC.


----------



## reaper~

HAF 932 is a great case and yes, you won't have any problem mounting the H50 in there (top, front or back).


----------



## Artie.Fufkin

And another question....I see these Gentle Typhoons selling at the same price (30 AU) and I can get them running at 500, 800, 1150 and 1850 RPM. What would you guys recommend and in what circumstances would you want a higher or lower RPM?


----------



## reaper~

Since they're the same price, get the 1850 RPM model (it has the highest static pressure). You could always use a fan controller to adjust the RPM (thus lowering the dB). When looking for fans to put on your rad (radiator), always look for one with high static pressure as it's needed when there is restriction (blowing through those dense fins on the rad).


----------



## MyNameIsWill

How come some people get better temps with a H50 with same chips?


----------



## Artie.Fufkin

Would a 1850 RPM be quite loud though?


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MyNameIsWill* 
How come some people get better temps with a H50 with same chips?

No 2 chips are alike and that includes its ability to overclock. One might need more vcore to become stable at a certain speed while another might need less (more vcore = more heat).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Artie.Fufkin* 
Would a 1850 RPM be quite loud though?

Nope. Not to me anyway.







Maybe I'm deaf. lol


----------



## Artie.Fufkin

The 932 has a ****eload of fans. Would they contribute at all to the cooling of the CPU given it has its own dedicated H50 cooler with some push/pull fans? Would the additional case fans only contribute to the cooling of other components? I may not need to OC my graphics card since it'll likely be a 6970 running a single monitor at 1920x1080 so perhaps all those additional fans aren't needed?


----------



## alancsalt

I had to put an extra fan on the NB/MCH to cool that and the mobo. When combined with a side panel fan, it was enough. The extra fans I put on after that didn't change temps.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *reaper~* 
First, welcome to OCN.







Second, if you look through this thread, most of the members here have the H50 (or H70) setup using 2 fans in push/pull. Personally, I'd recommend you get 2 Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-15 fans and do a push/pull (intaking).

I would not recommend using intake if you have your H50/H70 setup at the back of your case. It can possible give slightly lower temps but heating up all your other components and messing up the whole air flow setup in your case isn't worth it. Depending on your video cards and where your power supply is located you could even get worse temps as intake from the back, like my setup my power supply is mounted at the bottom of my case and I have two video cards that vent out the back with all of that heat going out the back intake would give me higher temps.

If your going to put your H50/H70 setup in the front then I would try to line it up with the back exhaust fan for best results.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MyNameIsWill* 
How come some people get better temps with a H50 with same chips?

There are way to many factors to really compare when it comes to cpu temps. Cpu's with a really low vid tend to run hotter than ones with higher vid's, cpu steppings make a differece, some cpu's need more vcore than others, ambient temps make a huge difference in temps and case air flow can also be a factor. I have had 2 E8500's in the same computer with the same H50 cooler and at the same vcore and oc my E0 stepping E8500 runs about 6-8*c cooler under load than my C0 stepping E8500. They both also had the same vid (1.25)


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MyNameIsWill*


How come some people get better temps with a H50 with same chips?


Quite apart from all the reasons quoted already, with the unusual mount that they have, sometimes people make errors in mounting them. A "picnic" error.

Chip differences. Installer differences.

You really do need to read the instructions, do it carefully, and do the screws up evenly.


----------



## Logan801

heres a pic of my h70 putting in work










http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink


----------



## digitally

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Logan801* 
heres a pic of my h70 putting in work










http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

2 rad? naise


----------



## Artie.Fufkin

Does anyone hear have a Coolermaster 690 case with an H50? If so, feel free to give me some tips. I didn't get the 932 case because I wanted to save a bit of money and I didn't like the look to be honest. Hopefully I can get my i7 up past 4 GHz with an H50.


----------



## alancsalt

H50 as rear exhaust, gutted 1" fan as shroud (to eliminate fan centre dead spot), Ultra Kaze 3000rpm 133cfm 38mm x 120mm blowing out the heat.

Extra fan on NB/MCH
Extra fan cooling SLI and Mobo
Extra fan in 5.25" bays not having much effect after others already there, but looking good.

You are posting in lots of places.......


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Artie.Fufkin* 
Does anyone hear have a Coolermaster 690 case with an H50? If so, feel free to give me some tips. I didn't get the 932 case because I wanted to save a bit of money and I didn't like the look to be honest. Hopefully I can get my i7 up past 4 GHz with an H50.

The 690's here cost more than the 932's almost double. USA if you didn't know.


----------



## jprovido

anyone tried adding a reservoir to the h50?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jprovido* 
anyone tried adding a reservoir to the h50?

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8155906

Willhemmens has.

Never having checked a Megahalems vs H50 test before, looked at vga forums archive where *swalker23* did tests using an i7-920 at 3.8GHz and 4.0GHz using Scythe Ulra Kaze 3000 fans push/pull for both, and measuring with RealTemp, over 10 minutes of Prime95.
*3.8GHz*
H50 100% Load Max Temps
66, 65, 67, 60
Megahalems 100% Load Max Temps
62, 61, 62, 57

*4.0GHz*
H50 100% Load Max Temps
76, 74, 76, 69
Megahalems 100% Load Max Temps
69, 68, 69, 64


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Artie.Fufkin*


Does anyone hear have a Coolermaster 690 case with an H50? If so, feel free to give me some tips. I didn't get the 932 case because I wanted to save a bit of money and I didn't like the look to be honest. Hopefully I can get my i7 up past 4 GHz with an H50.


Yep, that would be me.

I have the rad in a push/pull (intake) and shroud congfiguration sitting in the 5.25 bay.

I had Scythe UK 2000s but I have replaced them with a pair Gentle Typhoons A-15s. Temps are nearly the same <> 2c across the cores but its a hellava lot quieter.

Ive modded the 690 by removing all the fan grills and honeycomb at the top to cut down on fan noise and free up the air flow.

See pics for placement.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post8155906

Willhemmens has.

Never having checked a Megahalems vs H50 test before, looked at vga forums archive where *swalker23* did tests using an i7-920 at 3.8GHz and 4.0GHz using Scythe Ulra Kaze 3000 fans push/pull for both, and measuring with RealTemp, over 10 minutes of Prime95.
*3.8GHz*
H50 100% Load Max Temps
66, 65, 67, 60
Megahalems 100% Load Max Temps
62, 61, 62, 57

*4.0GHz*
H50 100% Load Max Temps
76, 74, 76, 69
Megahalems 100% Load Max Temps
69, 68, 69, 64



I would like to see this test using lower cfm fans. Its no secret air coolers benefit greatly with high cfm fans where as rad's don't need huge cfm fans to cool well. I can't imagine how loud running 2 ultra kaze 3000 fans at full tilt would be lol. I used a Panaflo ultra 38mm fan with a 25mm shroud and a CM R4 pulling for a bit on my H50 and it that was quite loud at full tilt. I pulled out the Panaflo and tossed in another CM R4 with a 25mm shroud and kept the other CM R4 pulling and I only saw a 1-2*c rise in temps under IBT loads but the reduction in noise was worth the rise in temps to me. Under normal pc use max temps are almost identical between the CM R4's vs Panaflo setups.


----------



## flipv6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Artie.Fufkin*


Does anyone hear have a Coolermaster 690 case with an H50?


Here's my not so old setup:


----------



## Xristo

Hello everyone , have had my h50 for a few months now and iv tampered with this setup countless times to get good temps . Im using a i7 870 @ 4.2ghz 1.392v HT-ON , Turbo -ON, idle temps are 38/36/35/33 and 100% load using prime 73/70/67/63 .

Ambient's arent the best its pretty warm here now in australia as it just hit summer . Im curious to see how well this cooler will do in winter







Iv have read numerous reviews of the h50 after i purchased it and apparently people think the h50 is not for overclocking... thats not true ..

out of the box its not that great with its 1 fan but if you know wat your doing you can easily unleash the true power of this tiny watercooling setup . I started off with purchasing 2 x noctua s12b fans and screwing them on push pull , had it mounted on the rear of my case blowing out and it did well =) but not good enough . I then mounted the rad at the front of the case and designed my own vaccum system to get rid of the hot air it blows into the case to shoot right out the back of the chasis .

I then lapped my cpu and waterblock of the h50 ( Didnt quite get mirror finish but good enough ) and added applied a thin line of arctic silver 5 across the heat spreader of the cpu and thats where im at so far . Iv drawn a rough diagram of how i got my h50 setup , it might give youse some ideas or inspiration to get this thing to its full potential =) this is an awsome cooler for the price , dont listen to the haters who believe the h50 is useless its obvious they have no clue what they are doing .

I hope during winter time i can get 4.4 or even 4.5ghz under 80c load that would be awsome . Thanks for reading .


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


Hello everyone , have had my h50 for a few months now and iv tampered with this setup countless times to get good temps . Im using a i7 870 @ 4.2ghz 1.392v HT-ON , Turbo -ON, idle temps are 38/36/35/33 and 100% load using prime 73/70/67/63 .

Ambient's arent the best its pretty warm here now in australia as it just hit summer . Im curious to see how well this cooler will do in winter







Iv have read numerous reviews of the h50 after i purchased it and apparently people think the h50 is not for overclocking... thats not true ..

out of the box its not that great with its 1 fan but if you know wat your doing you can easily unleash the true power of this tiny watercooling setup . I started off with purchasing 2 x noctua s12b fans and screwing them on push pull , had it mounted on the rear of my case blowing out and it did well =) but not good enough . I then mounted the rad at the front of the case and designed my own vaccum system to get rid of the hot air it blows into the case to shoot right out the back of the chasis .

I then lapped my cpu and waterblock of the h50 ( Didnt quite get mirror finish but good enough ) and added applied a thin line of arctic silver 5 across the heat spreader of the cpu and thats where im at so far . Iv drawn a rough diagram of how i got my h50 setup , it might give youse some ideas or inspiration to get this thing to its full potential =) this is an awsome cooler for the price , dont listen to the haters who believe the h50 is useless its obvious they have no clue what they are doing .

I hope during winter time i can get 4.4 or even 4.5ghz under 80c load that would be awsome . Thanks for reading



Nice setup. I dont think you will find any haters here,,, I hope not, anyway









I guess we will battle through summer together (Im on the South Coast). Like you, Ive found that a front placement of the rad and intake seems to work better than exhaust.

Can you share a pic of your actual setup of that vacuum system... Ive not come across anything like that for a while


----------



## tjbridge

Guys, i would like to know.. although my average H50 pump speed is approx 1300~1400, I sometimes see in my HWMonitor Pro the min (0), and max (675000) is this normal for you guys??


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tjbridge*


Guys, i would like to know.. although my average H50 pump speed is approx 1300~1400, I sometimes see in my HWMonitor Pro the min (0), and max (675000) is this normal for you guys??


That's just a glitch when you first start up the program it sometimes does that.


----------



## Xristo

@ sethy666 , thanks man i took some snaps for youse to have a look at . It doesnt look anything special but it does a nice job =) only thing id like to do now is make a sealed chamber in between the cup and the noctua fans instead of just having it loosly sitting there .. P.s mind the dirty pipe , it was used as induction on my old car =p still got good use .


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


@ sethy666 , thanks man i took some snaps for youse to have a look at . It doesnt look anything special but it does a nice job =) only thing id like to do now is make a sealed chamber in between the cup and the noctua fans instead of just having it loosly sitting there .. P.s mind the dirty pipe , it was used as induction on my old car =p still got good use .


So is the vacuum cleaner hooked to the back of the case/fan or you just meant you had the hot air ducted to the back?


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*












Is there a reason your Tjmax is set to 99*? I though i7's were 100*?


----------



## Xristo

Im not too sure about the tj max ? thats how it is by default .. 99-100 same thing really , they both suck as temps lol . Theres an exhaust fan on either end of that pipe flowing the same way sucking all the hot air from the back of the radiator to out the back of the case . though i want to make it a sealed compartment as shown in the diagram i just did...










I think this would make for a really nice setup , i need to find a way to seal the compartment off though ... Hmmmmmmmmmmm i need a 14cm shroud of some sort , i may need to buy a cheap fan so i can gut it .

Still a wip , will update as i get ideas.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
i want to make it a sealed compartment as shown in the diagram i just did...

I think this would make for a really nice setup , i need to find a way to seal the compartment off though ... Hmmmmmmmmmmm i need a 14cm shroud of some sort , i may need to buy a cheap fan so i can gut it .

Still a wip , will update as i get ideas.

I like it! Some left field thinking there









Gutted fan = shroud. Thats the easiest way methinks, sealed with black electrical tape for that ghetto look.

I couldnt tell from your pics but if you had a top exhaust fan port, you could run it to there and avoid the run across your mobo.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
I like it! Some left field thinking there









Gutted fan = shroud. Thats the easiest way methinks, sealed with black electrical tape for that ghetto look.

I couldnt tell from your pics but if you had a top exhaust fan port, you could run it to there and avoid the run across your mobo.

I get this vision of a 90 degree storm pipe bend


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alancsalt* 
I get this vision of a 90 degree storm pipe bend









Thats exactly what Im thinking


----------



## alancsalt

I've also considered cutting a custom shroud out of a 1" nylon breadboard with a jigsaw.


----------



## Xristo

Yeah unfortunatly i didnt think before i bought my case =( top exhaust would be niiiceee i would definatly route it that way and kept the back for another exhaust fan ..

But anywayzzz update i just took the front 14cm out , didnt do much feeding the noctua with air the temps didnt drop at all so now i got the radiator right at the front like so.....Dvd drive sits ontop









I had no clue what i was going to use to conseal that compartment so i did some dodgy's and used the plastic that intel supplies the stock HS in , fits perfectly in that gap and the cup fits snug all i did was cut a hole in it where the circle is .. no air leaks or nothing =D all vaccuum baby

You cant see much but this is how it sits ..bare with my **** iphone pics please sorry

























Im gunna do some prime95 later on , stock settings all the way to 4.2ghz ill put some results up .


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
Yeah unfortunatly i didnt think before i bought my case =( top exhaust would be niiiceee i would definatly route it that way and kept the back for another exhaust fan ..

But anywayzzz update i just took the front 14cm out , didnt do much feeding the noctua with air the temps didnt drop at all so now i got the radiator right at the front like so.....Dvd drive sits ontop

I had no clue what i was going to use to conseal that compartment so i did some dodgy's and used the plastic that intel supplies the stock HS in , fits perfectly in that gap and the cup fits snug all i did was cut a hole in it where the circle is .. no air leaks or nothing =D all vaccuum baby

You cant see much but this is how it sits ..bare with my **** iphone pics please sorry

Im gunna do some prime95 later on , stock settings all the way to 4.2ghz ill put some results up .

I have a similar setup with mine in front though I made custom brackets of sorts to secure might in front and I have shrouds.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
I have a similar setup with mine in front though I made custom brackets of sorts to secure might in front and I have shrouds.

I like your custom brackets... beats the hell out of my zip tie effort


----------



## mekaw

I can't get my head around as to why my setup is running hot.

overclocked to 4ghz at 1.45 volt

h50 with push pull config, I'm using shrouds from 2 old fans and made it into 1 and that's 50mm shroud mounted outside on the Push with fan and pull fan is right against the rad. air flow is INTAKE

Overclocked my cpu under fullload is mid 50 but if i cheat and get cold air sucking in through the window its 46.

i have 4 other fans in the case. I configured so air flow is going out the front of the case

2 CoolerMaster R4 on rad INTAKE
1 noctua p12 fan on top sucking in air INTAKE
1 gelid wing 12 blowing air out at the bottom of the case EXHAUST
1 noctua p14 fan blowing out air at the front bottom EXHAUST
1 gelid wing 12 blowing out the front mid EXHAUST
1 240mm fan on the case door INTAKE

for GPU it exhaust air into the case with aftermarket cooler, arctic cooling accelero twinturbo pro

is h50 not enough to cool 4ghz?

should I try reservoir method to see where that goes?

had h50 for about 2 months at most, all fins are clean in the rad,


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mekaw* 
I can't get my head around as to why my setup is running hot.

overclocked to 4ghz at 1.45 volt

h50 with push pull config, I'm using shrouds from 2 old fans and made it into 1 and that's 50mm shroud mounted outside on the Push with fan and pull fan is right against the rad. air flow is INTAKE

Overclocked my cpu under fullload is mid 50 but if i cheat and get cold air sucking in through the window its 46.

i have 4 other fans in the case. I configured so air flow is going out the front of the case

2 CoolerMaster R4 on rad INTAKE
1 noctua p12 fan on top sucking in air INTAKE
1 gelid wing 12 blowing air out at the bottom of the case EXHAUST
1 noctua p14 fan blowing out air at the front bottom EXHAUST
1 gelid wing 12 blowing out the front mid EXHAUST
1 240mm fan on the case door INTAKE

for GPU it exhaust air into the case with aftermarket cooler, arctic cooling accelero twinturbo pro

is h50 not enough to cool 4ghz?

should I try reservoir method to see where that goes?

had h50 for about 2 months at most, all fins are clean in the rad,

Mid 50's on FULL load(linpack etc) for 4ghz with 1.45(+LLC?) is really not that bad for a closed loop system. I'm not a pro on custom WCing so making a few assumptions here but it seems to me a reservoir is essentially needed when you have multiple loops or long single one and you're trying to make sure there is enough water to keep your loop(s) 100% full which really isn't going to help much unless you're currently suffering from a water deficiency. I suppose it also allows more water more time away from the hot components to maybe increase the cooling some but you're still going to be limited by your ambients(what are yours by the way?) unless you've got some chilling system for the res.
Personally I don't think it's worth voiding the rather significant warranty you get with the H-series. But if I was a pro w/c I probably wouldn't think twice about it hehe.
GL anyway but if you ask me your temps are not that bad....try reseating your block maybe unless you're 100% sure you have it down.

PS: at least get some gentle typhoons first or something even better if you can stand the noise....R4's are OK but they are by no means in the top 5 for rad fans(IMHO).


----------



## mekaw

hmm.

I honestly don't know the significance of ampere in fan

but from this test/chart seems like r4 has better static pressure to cfm


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mekaw* 
I can't get my head around as to why my setup is running hot.

overclocked to 4ghz at 1.45 volt

h50 with push pull config, I'm using shrouds from 2 old fans and made it into 1 and that's 50mm shroud mounted outside on the Push with fan and pull fan is right against the rad. air flow is INTAKE

Overclocked my cpu under fullload is mid 50 but if i cheat and get cold air sucking in through the window its 46.

i have 4 other fans in the case. I configured so air flow is going out the front of the case

2 CoolerMaster R4 on rad INTAKE
1 noctua p12 fan on top sucking in air INTAKE
1 gelid wing 12 blowing air out at the bottom of the case EXHAUST
1 noctua p14 fan blowing out air at the front bottom EXHAUST
1 gelid wing 12 blowing out the front mid EXHAUST
1 240mm fan on the case door INTAKE

for GPU it exhaust air into the case with aftermarket cooler, arctic cooling accelero twinturbo pro

is h50 not enough to cool 4ghz?

should I try reservoir method to see where that goes?

had h50 for about 2 months at most, all fins are clean in the rad,

h50 can for sure and certain keep your cpu cool at 4ghz , im running mine on 4.2ghz without a hassle .. full load doesnt see over 75c =) and thats with hyperthreading and turbo enabled. Is your pump working at 100% same with your fans ? is the pump seated correctly ? maybe try some arctic 5 thermal paste and give your cpu and waterblock a bit of a sand down to get a nice flat smooth surface .

Im not sure with amd's though ... only amd i ever owned was a k8 , never again ..

When i first got my h50 i was kind of dissapointed , thats until i changed a few things to the way they should be and now i wouldnt replace it for anything .


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mekaw*


hmm.

I honestly don't know the significance of ampere in fan

but from this test/chart seems like r4 has better static pressure to cfm



Hmmph, well I won't get into the validity of some of these "comparison charts" but even to claim those numbers they must be somewhat close. Surprising to me that no one brought this up a few months back when you had to put $10,000 down to get a GTAP15 from anywhere, lol. 
I like the 32mm+ fans better...about triple the numbers on that chart but of course with a correlated rise in DB(I could care less but this is dealbreaker for most). Not using delta's or anything quite that crazy just 32mm Ultra Kaze 3k's with double shrouds(33mm-ish). They are definitely the loudest fans in my case but they move a pretty massive amount of air directly into the intake side of my rear exhaust fan and woe to any air flows attempting to overpower them. =) 
I've spent a long time wasting money and time researching and testing different fans and in alllllllll my tests, there is maybe a 10c difference in the worst to the best I've tried....

I have finally decided to be content on the fan portion(at least until I get wind of some new models that are actually effectively innovating/revolutionizing the air moving device market, heh.) and just accept I'm not going to get much higher than 4.1 with my chip unless it decides to get cold in San Diego >.<

I could countersink 3 deltas and wire/configure them in series and add 3 more to pull with shrouds all around but I'm still going to be bottle necked by this damn.....mildly warm.....perfect....weather..


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mekaw*


I can't get my head around as to why my setup is running hot.

overclocked to 4ghz at 1.45 volt

h50 with push pull config, I'm using shrouds from 2 old fans and made it into 1 and that's 50mm shroud mounted outside on the Push with fan and pull fan is right against the rad. air flow is INTAKE

Overclocked my cpu under fullload is mid 50 but if i cheat and get cold air sucking in through the window its 46.

i have 4 other fans in the case. I configured so air flow is going out the front of the case

2 CoolerMaster R4 on rad INTAKE
1 noctua p12 fan on top sucking in air INTAKE
1 gelid wing 12 blowing air out at the bottom of the case EXHAUST
1 noctua p14 fan blowing out air at the front bottom EXHAUST
1 gelid wing 12 blowing out the front mid EXHAUST
1 240mm fan on the case door INTAKE

for GPU it exhaust air into the case with aftermarket cooler, arctic cooling accelero twinturbo pro

is h50 not enough to cool 4ghz?

should I try reservoir method to see where that goes?

had h50 for about 2 months at most, all fins are clean in the rad,


Mid 50 as in 55C is just fine for your CPU I wouldn't want to go over 55C if you run your PC 24/7 doing something like folding but if you don't run it 24/7 folding or something that actually keeps it at full load you really shouldn't worry at having anything that is 63C or under.

I run mine 24/7 at times under full load so for me to not worry mine has to stay at 55C or under but very few people do this.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mekaw*


hmm.

I honestly don't know the significance of ampere in fan

but from this test/chart seems like r4 has better static pressure to cfm


You are correct an CM R4 vs a Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-14 fan the R4 has more static pressure. That is why people here using SGT fans use AP-15 fans.

D1225C12B4AP-14 1,450 rpm, 21 dBA, 85 mÂ³/h

D1225C12B5AP-15 1,850 rpm, 28 dBA, 98 mÂ³/h


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mekaw*


I can't get my head around as to why my setup is running hot.

overclocked to 4ghz at 1.45 volt

h50 with push pull config, I'm using shrouds from 2 old fans and made it into 1 and that's 50mm shroud mounted outside on the Push with fan and pull fan is right against the rad. air flow is INTAKE

Overclocked my cpu under fullload is mid 50 but if i cheat and get cold air sucking in through the window its 46.

i have 4 other fans in the case. I configured so air flow is going out the front of the case

2 CoolerMaster R4 on rad INTAKE
1 noctua p12 fan on top sucking in air INTAKE
1 gelid wing 12 blowing air out at the bottom of the case EXHAUST
1 noctua p14 fan blowing out air at the front bottom EXHAUST
1 gelid wing 12 blowing out the front mid EXHAUST
1 240mm fan on the case door INTAKE

for GPU it exhaust air into the case with aftermarket cooler, arctic cooling accelero twinturbo pro

is h50 not enough to cool 4ghz?

should I try reservoir method to see where that goes?

had h50 for about 2 months at most, all fins are clean in the rad,


After reading over this post again I do actually have a list of some actions you might take that could possibly get you a few degrees cooler than you're running now....not talking 10c-20c more like 1-6c diff max.

You've currently got your fans fighting physics; hot air rises naturally and can be harnessed as a free air mover if you allow it. So that means(this is what I would do if I was you but I'm an amateur physisist at best...which means if I happen to be in a physics lab, I really start to shine when somebody needs a beaker off a tall shelf, or a light switch toggled...few can equal my incredible prowess in these areas^^

Now that I put on my flame ******ant jacket I'll continue....
Some of this will depend on the components you've got inside and whether they can be rearranged or just aren't in the way but this is what I ended up with after about 6 months of never ending tweaks and changes and testing and more testing, ending with what I consider to be the best I can do with what I have:
Mounted Rad in 5.25 bay directly across from my rear exhaust fan in front of case with hoses going underneath my Corsair Ram Fans and just over the top of my ram.(had also made it work with H50 hoses going around the fans and ram but when I switched to the shorter H70 hoses I could no longer quite reach comfortably unless I made them as straight as I could).

With regards to the rad and shrouds.... 33mm of shrouds on either side(using both of your shrouds on one side when the distance is getting over 40mm from fan to rad is not the best choice IMO. I hope you've got 100% confidence there's no air escaping through any possible cracks in that long of a tunnel but even still I would think a fan's static pressure surely weakens the farther it gets from the object it's supposed to be penetrating. 
Your pull fan suffers(though not quite as much) from the dead spot just like your push fan so I think cutting them in half(maybe leave a slight bit more on the push side...hopefully giving you 32mm-37mm-ish distance from rad but certainly not 50mm+...I'd rather have 25mm on each side than 50mm on one side).

If you can manage to front mount the rad as an intake(it's going to be physically farther from your CPU which should help negate any negative side effects from blowing the radiator-warmed air into your case - especially if you can line it up with your rear(should now be exhaust) 120-140mm fan on the other side of the case.

Then if you've got the top fan exhausting the already rising warm air from the lower regions of your case(you said your GPU vents it's hot air inside and not out the back so you're probably fighting a great deal with the air inside) as well as helping dissipate the warmer air you're sending from the front(try to get the rad mounted as high as you can without messing up the flow path to the rear exhaust fan because the higher it is the more that top fan is going to do for case temperature.

Finally, your bottom fan(with a decent filter and judicious cleaning of said filter) should be blowing UP all that cool air sitting on your floor. Can get a couple degrees from that alone I would think....stand on top of your desk and feel your roof then lay down on the ground and feel the difference hehe....I just think you could really benefit from going with the nature of warm and cool air than trying to force it to bend to your will









anyway that's just a few things and all I have time for right now but hope at least some of it can be of assistance.
Good luck man! keep us updated and of course if you stumble upon the missing link that can turn your cpu and rad into an air conditioner instead of a heater we better be the first to hear about it xDD

Carfanatic, bro let me know if I missed something.....am doing about 3 other things while typing and too much info to proof read more than once. 
And if anybody has found a better system please don't be shy, I always go back and catch up here when I have time and I think I'll still forever be looking for ways I can improve or theories I haven't heard xD


----------



## alancsalt

Would kill for 50C full load....


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimbrady*


Carfanatic, bro let me know if I missed something.....am doing about 3 other things while typing and too much info to proof read more than once.


Looks good to me just keep with the natural air flow of your case to begin with is always the best way to setup your H50. The case manufacturers already put in the $$ to research what the best setup was so why would you go against it. Just because one component in your setup said it should be intake you don't want to mess up the whole thermal cooling of your case for that one component. Modern case design is almost always front/bottom/side intake; back and top exhaust and always this is a big one always intake more than you exhaust.

I have tried H50 intake in the back, exhaust in the back and finally switched to front intake and obviously since I have left it in front as intake that yielded the best results. I also added two shrouds both 25mm shrouds on on both fan. 50mm IMO is too much you shouldn't go over 35mm let alone way up to 50 your better off having 25mm on both fans.

The only other thing I would suggest is filters they save a ton of work in the long run. I use filters on all of my intakes and clean them weekly. Depending on the amount of dust/dirt you have flying around your house you might only have to do it monthly. I have one dog but my GF has another dog and two cats and won't let my dog eat any of her pets....so there is a lot of pet hair and dander that clogs the filters up quickly.

I use filters from http://www.demcifilter.com/ I suggest you figure out all of the filters you would need for your whole case/setup and place an order directly from them it is actually cheaper than going through other websites that sell Demci filters and through them you can order custom filters like me I have a 220 side fan so not a standard size fan.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


Would kill for 50C full load....


You don't have to kill for it just sell your I7 and board and buy an AMD CPU and board then Voila 50C full load temps or less low to mid 40's for me.


----------



## alancsalt

Well you just know I meant 50C and keep my i7









About the shrouds:
http://martin.skinneelabs.com/Radiat...ng-Review.html

I think this articles says 25mm shroud with push and 38mm with pull, but given the small difference involved that 25mm is generally fine..... but see what you think it says .....


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alancsalt* 
Well you just know I meant 50C and keep my i7









I think this articles says 25mm shroud with push and 38mm with pull, but given the small difference involved that 25mm is generally fine..... but see what you think it says .....

It looks to me that by the research done here that 30mm seemed optimal for both push and pull so when combined it should remain the same. Other than the second graph he never mentions the size of the shroud again only fan sizes 25 or 38mm fans.


----------



## alancsalt

I went by the lowest sectors of the curves. For pull that is past 30mm - about 34 to 43mm, and the spread on push looks to be 23 to 32. That was how I interpreted it.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alancsalt* 
I went by the lowest sectors of the curves. For pull that is past 30mm - about 34 to 43mm, and the spread on push looks to be 23 to 32. That was how I interpreted it.









See the dots are the only actual measuring points. Since there is no pre-made shrouds between 30 and 60 there was no dot there. He would've had to make custom shrouds like most of us on here to actually take more measuring points. Then he could have other points at 25mm, 38mm and then of course 50mm and 76mm too.


----------



## jnabq

Read through the vast majority of this thread, really great stuff.

Got my H50 installed in an Asus case and wanted some airflow opinions. Currently setup as in the pic, but have some heat issues where the Cyclone is. Heat builds up under the card. Guess an exhausting GPU would have been better. I thought the dual intake/pos pressure, exhausting out the side vent area(s), (as noted by the yellow triangles) would be enough?










Ambient is about 25c, idle on the I7 920 at 3.0 is about 40c. Prime got to 85c. I'd like some suggestions for better temps with this setup. Thanks alot all, appreciate it.


----------



## mekaw

hm what should i do with front fans? intake or exhaust. I can't really setup the rad on the front of the case.


----------



## Skoobs

you will not see much of a difference with the h50 mounted as intake rather than exhaust. in my experience with the h50, having positive pressure and good airflow will be the best way to lower your temps. double shrouds with push pull are always great with a rad.


----------



## Skoobs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jnabq* 
Read through the vast majority of this thread, really great stuff.

Got my H50 installed in an Asus case and wanted some airflow opinions. Currently setup as in the pic, but have some heat issues where the Cyclone is. Heat builds up under the card. Guess an exhausting GPU would have been better. I thought the dual intake/pos pressure, exhausting out the side vent area(s), (as noted by the yellow triangles) would be enough?










Ambient is about 25c, idle on the I7 920 at 3.0 is about 40c. Prime got to 85c. I'd like some suggestions for better temps with this setup. Thanks alot all, appreciate it.


would it be an option for you to add more holes to the case for fans? i would say throw 2 scythe slipstreams on the bottom and a single one in front of the PSU on top. If you do this, make sure to lift it up with some feet!

these area great:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=23215

and be sure to add FILTERS to the bottom fans!

nexus makes some great ones.


----------



## mekaw

I did everything suggested and well i did change the fan mounted outisde pushing air through rad to ultra kaze but running at 2000rpm with controller( surprise no ticking) and now under prime 95 large fft test its sitting at 51deg!


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mekaw* 
I did everything suggested and well i did change the fan mounted outisde pushing air through rad to ultra kaze but running at 2000rpm with controller( surprise no ticking) and now under prime 95 large fft test its sitting at 51deg!

Nice man! That is definitely worth the time and effort in my opinion.

For the rest of your case fans just try keep them consistent with the overall path you're creating with the others, though I wouldn't recommend setting one exhaust and one intake if they're right above or below eachother.....you might not even need the highest front intake....hard to really nail down hot pockets and such without a laser thermometer since the difference in mobo temps is hard to judge solely by the diodes.

Carfanatic is right though....the tried and true setup of front/bottom/side intake top/rear exhaust has been around forever....for a reason xD


----------



## mekaw

currently sits like this.

Should i flip the noctua 140mm and gelid wing 12 around so 140 mm is up top?










if you wanna have a clear look, here's how it looks BEFORE I made all the changes.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mekaw* 
currently sits like this.

Should i flip the noctua 140mm and gelid wing 12 around so 140 mm is up top?

if you wanna have a clear look, here's how it looks BEFORE I made all the changes.

The bottom should be intake as well as any side or front fans you have and the top fan should be exhaust as well as the H50 fans should be exhaust.


----------



## mekaw

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
The bottom should be intake as well as any side or front fans you have and the top fan should be exhaust as well as the H50 fans should be exhaust.

Bottom is intake, if you look at first photo, second photo is just to show you what it looks like inside my case and that was before I changed fan directions etc etc.

I don't really want to flip the fans around to exhaust on h50 seeing inside the case is a lot warmer.


----------



## Nawamin

Guys,

I have a question. I am picking H50 up from Microcenter today after work. I will be installing an extra fan with shrouds in P/P config.

How do you guys set up the fan(s) speed? Leave them on at full speed, manually controlled the speed or let the BIOS control the speed?


----------



## mekaw

I just let computer control it, when it's not working full load it slows so it'sokay, but for my ultra kaze I use controller


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Nawamin* 
Guys,

I have a question. I am picking H50 up from Microcenter today after work. I will be installing an extra fan with shrouds in P/P config.

How do you guys set up the fan(s) speed? Leave them on at full speed, manually controlled the speed or let the BIOS control the speed?

Fan speed is largely up to your own preferences. The pump, however, should always have full power.
I run 90% of my fans via molex because I've yet to find a controller that I like enough to buy hehe. I don't care about quiet pc's either......

But if you're unsure about all the settings involved in bios and OS you may want to use a 3-4pin adapter for your push and pull fans and pump I suppose, though your bios might start chirping at you with no cpu fan detected. That way you can be certain that there's no chance their power is fluctuating.

Not sure what you're goals are but I would suggest at least running your rad fan(s) at max speed for the first couple days...then you at least get some idea of how the TIM and HS are doing before you start messing with the fans because you'll probably be spending more time on them.


----------



## jnabq

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Skoobs* 
would it be an option for you to add more holes to the case for fans? i would say throw 2 scythe slipstreams on the bottom and a single one in front of the PSU on top. If you do this, make sure to lift it up with some feet!

these area great:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=23215

and be sure to add FILTERS to the bottom fans!

nexus makes some great ones.











Thanks Skoobs, I have a couple fans enroute atm, I was thinking of one on top, (exhaust), and adding a expansion slot fan below the GPU to exhaust. Any placed on bottom I would need to add the feet onto the case for sure, but not real keen on that idea. Those case feet you mentioned did look cool. Thanks. The fan on top will be set to exhaust I'm thinking, then I'll see where I stand on temps at that point and go from there?

You think I should leave the current fan configuration, front/back as both intake?


----------



## kingofyo1

well I guess you can /sign me up! got my h50 installed, but under prime 95, temp jumps from 35c ambient(ish) to 64-70c+! it scares me, and im wondering what (if anything) i did wrong? here's some pics of my setup: corsair is pulling in from outside, then radiator, then casefan pulling from corsair over towards front of case. I didnt replace the shin TIM, decided since i didnt have any AS5 on hand not to try to replace with POS TIM




































Fan setup is as follows: corsair fan: on cpu header 3pin pump connector: on chassis header set at 100% duty 100% of the time. Stock chassis fan: on molex pumping as much as it can(wondering if i should replace it with tricool)


----------



## mekaw

^ wow dude, 70 deg is WAY tooo high, max temp is 62 deg so you want to under shoot that temperature

I don't know if shin etsu thermal compound needs break in period but that might be it if it is.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kingofyo1* 
well I guess you can /sign me up! got my h50 installed, but under prime 95, temp jumps from 35c ambient(ish) to 64-70c+! it scares me, and im wondering what (if anything) i did wrong? here's some pics of my setup: corsair is pulling in from outside, then radiator, then casefan pulling from corsair over towards front of case. I didnt replace the shin TIM, decided since i didnt have any AS5 on hand not to try to replace with POS TIM









Fan setup is as follows: corsair fan: on cpu header 3pin pump connector: on chassis header set at 100% duty 100% of the time. Stock chassis fan: on molex pumping as much as it can(wondering if i should replace it with tricool)


There has been more than a few people on here posting about how they had to scrape off the stock Shin, remove about half of it, then reapply to get a more appropriate amount but of course there are many variables to that and if you don't have something decent to replace it with you might wanna try some other troubleshooting on your radiator and case fans and see if that fixes it.
Shin-etsu doesn't have a cure time which is probably the biggest reason it's what comes stock....I can foresee a lot of potential returns of H series if they had gone with something that needed to cure since more people than you'd think are rather underinformed when it comes to TIM so better to put something on that is probably very impressive when you first install one after using stock HSFs.

Sorry, seem to be rambling a lot today, heh. Back on point...70c takes a pretty high ambient and a heck of a lot of voltage for me to reach. It's not an insanely dangerous temp if you're not sitting at it for long periods but certainly too high for me 24/7. I know chips are different but when your load is virtually double your idle it makes me think there is an unfilled gap or overfilled cpu or perhaps your cpu is a little concave and the HS plate a little convex or vice versa....either of them lapped by chance? If not make sure when you do finally remount it(as I have a feeling you will get around to it before too long







) give the surfaces a thorough cleaning and do a flatness test....if you haven't already of course ^^ Would bring up fans and possible problems there but you seem like you've carefully eliminated them as the culprits.


----------



## Bobehud

I bought the H70 today--intake push/pull pair of UlrtraK 3K's and i used the MX3 used a razor got the stock stuff off..nosiy as hell but im okay with that.
Full load Prime lrg fft 45c-idle 27-28c..Ambient about 75f..so far so good

Im at 4.1 1.55 v.

Somethings wrong that idle temp is worse than my stock cooler AMD's hate the heat id shut er' down and start taking things loose you'll find something

Best of luck.


----------



## kingofyo1

Slimbrady, your post minded me to recheck all the pressure on the bolts holding the heatsink in place. Found that one was terribly loose! I just musta forgot that :/ On the plus side, I stopped at a comp repair shop on the way to work earlier, grabbed some good TIM and scraped the shin off the h50. Upon replacement with 5 dots strategically placed around the cpu, I'm able to get *and keep in mind, this is Southern Mississippi in an ambient 80F house, an UNDER PRIME 95 LOAD at 25 minutes it went from 23C to 38C! that's a TON better than 70's! oh btw, +rep for the suggestions







thanks again and now a REALLY proud owner of an H50 in Push Pull

here's some new images, as well as my airflow diagram

















I've since positioned the spot cooler pointing blown air straight up over the NB to the exhaust fans to try and cool off the NB some









Take a look at the case side panel, and you'll see why there's so many blue arrows and only a couple of reds: blue=intake, red=exhaust of course


----------



## Magus2727

you have turned your PSU fan to intake????


----------



## Bobehud

Joined this forum yesterday and have kinda been browsing thru this huge forum....see next to nothing on the H70..am in the right place.?


----------



## Xristo

just got myself an antec 1200 , idle temps now 30c on all cores ..60 degrees in prime 95 @ 4ghz . In colder weather i have no doubt 25C idle and 55 max load


----------



## Plex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


you have turned your PSU fan to intake????


I might be wrong, but I think the arrow you're talking about was representing a side-fan that you can't see because he has it opened up







.

I'm relatively certain he didn't crank open the PSU and somehow spin the fan around, LOL. If someone would do that then





















!


----------



## kingofyo1

yeah, its an intake







sorry, i didnt switch the psu around and troll ya like that. not my style







actually, that fan you're asking about is an intake on the back of the case


----------



## Bobehud

Anyone else ever use the Ultra Kaze 3k's have a pair on my H70-noisy.Yes.But they move a great deal of air.Lost 8-9c over a DarkKnight that had been Modded as far as it could go.
Had a domino cooler that leaked and cost me a MoBo and PS Microcenter was great gave me credit on everything now im running the H70.Good folks to deal with.


----------



## Virgle144

Nice computer, and cable management, but I really hate cases like that. :/ But every thing other than that is good.


----------



## Virgle144

I think I did something wrong my temps are crazy high. :/ But In 2 days I am getting my own custom water cooling setup for my cpu, and my 5870 crossfire.


----------



## Xristo

Some pics of my new setup , took me all yesterday to put it together . Had abit of troubles getting good temps at first with my arctic silver i tried the pea method , the line method it wouldnt idle under 50c and tj maxed in prime a few times it was piszn me off . I got my index finger and rubbed on the tim counterclockwise to the cpu and pump making sure it got nice coverage no air bubbles etc , i pushed the pump as hard as i could to the cpu while tightning the bracket screws as tight as they can be and finally after reseating 6 times i got the temps i wanted .

Im 99% sure the majority of people here using a h50 that are experiencing bad temps have not seated the pump correctly nor applied the correct amount of tim or did it in the right procedure . Iv literally reseated my pump over 20 times to get the results im getting now i didnt just pull it out of the box and magically get these temps , its just trial and error . Keep reseating and try different methods of applying the TIM , also push the pump as hard as u can to the cpu while your doing up the screws it can help


----------



## zombo

Mine







running an i5 760 at 4.0ghz







stable as a rock, only ever sees a maximum of 64c on full load, running stock fan and an antec tricool using ASUS Q-Fan on SILENT







very quiet!


----------



## jay826

So today I just noticed a like low humming noise coming from my H70. It isn't loud but its pretty audible from far away but not close. Just checking if that's normal because I've had it for a couple weeks now and I haven't really heard that noise ever. =X


----------



## Xristo

it could be the pump making the noise ? is it like a high pitch whining noise ? cos mine makes sort of a high pitch whistle but you cant hear it unless ur inside the case . After switching cases yesterday when i first turned on the computer the pump was gurgling n then it went after a few seconds.


----------



## test tube

I'm hitting 64C with my 1055T at 4GHz and 1.525v with an H70... Is this normal? Seems a little bit high, it's slightly better than my 212+, but not by much.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *test tube* 
I'm hitting 64C with my 1055T at 4GHz and 1.525v with an H70... Is this normal? Seems a little bit high, it's slightly better than my 212+, but not by much.

Thats a bit warm considering AMD's listed max temp is 62C. Your nearing the max safe vcore on that chip (i believe its 1.55v?) so it shouldn't be a surprise that its running warm. What are you using when your hitting 64C? Are you stress testing or just casually using the computer?


----------



## Xristo

64c is fine , im not familiar with amd processors though . Arent phenoms supposed to run cooler than that ?

If amd suggests 62c maximum than id do something about that , try using another TIM and make sure the pump is seated correctly . push on it while the computer is on see if ur temps drop , if they do it aint on properly.


----------



## test tube

64C is loaded with 24K/32K FFTs inplace in 64bit prime95 (AMD high temp run). In LinX it only gets 55-56C.

62C is the max temperature as listed by AMD, but i'm not all that concerned as the 95W model is listed as having a max temperature of 71C. no one here has yet to kill their 1055t with heat, even priming overnight with temps near these.

I may replace the fans with yate loons after christmas.

the way my computer is modded it's almost impossible to get close to the base while it's running... i think the base is on right though, i tightened the screws as much as they could be and tried to wiggle it without being able to when i put it in.

i think these fans maybe just blow (stock fans).


----------



## Xristo

Yeah man , i got 2 noctua s12b's and it made a considerable difference . then i got arctic silver 5 and it improved again ..Where is your radiator located ? is there sufficient airflow to it ?

h70 has 14cm fans am i right ? you should be certainly getting lower temps than that . I get those temps on an i7 @4.2ghz on my h50 . i7s run hot .

But if your cpu runs fine and ur sayin u can prime overnight i wouldnt worry about it.


----------



## jay826

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
it could be the pump making the noise ? is it like a high pitch whining noise ? cos mine makes sort of a high pitch whistle but you cant hear it unless ur inside the case . After switching cases yesterday when i first turned on the computer the pump was gurgling n then it went after a few seconds.

I would think its the pump but it's not high pitched at all. Its like a louder humming noise that you can only hear from basically the other side of the room if that makes any sense lol. I can hear it faintly when I stick my head on the case but yeah I am pretty sure I would have noticed it before because I'm always on that side of the room and the humming is very low pitched.


----------



## Xristo

Sounds like vibration to me , they dont humm... tried pushing on the pump to see if the noise stops ? If anything the pump only makes a high pitch whine noise but its very faint and you shouldnt be able to clearly hear it from across the room anyway.


----------



## jay826

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
Sounds like vibration to me , they dont humm... tried pushing on the pump to see if the noise stops ? If anything the pump only makes a high pitch whine noise but its very faint and you shouldnt be able to clearly hear it from across the room anyway.

Yeah it could be. The humming is hard to describe its like one of those deep and low frequencies that you hear from different angles of sound. But I'd say from about 10-15 feet you can hear it over the tv. It's so weird because up close I can't hear it at all. I just pushed on it and there isn't really difference in sound from what I can tell. I am going to try cleaning the radiator tomorrow to see if maybe some dust clots might be causing this.


----------



## Xristo

are you positive its the pump making the noise ?


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bobehud* 
Joined this forum yesterday and have kinda been browsing thru this huge forum....see next to nothing on the H70..am in the right place.?

You didn't miss the turn off for H70's, it's just very similar issues and common mistakes typically apply to both....there's very little difference in the two and the most common problems people are coming here to solve usually apply to both of them. But if you've got a question on your mind speak it, this thread repeats itself every 50-100 pages anyway lol









Quote:


Originally Posted by *kingofyo1* 
Slimbrady, your post minded me to recheck all the pressure on the bolts holding the heatsink in place. Found that one was terribly loose! I just musta forgot that :/ On the plus side, I stopped at a comp repair shop on the way to work earlier, grabbed some good TIM and scraped the shin off the h50. Upon replacement with 5 dots strategically placed around the cpu, I'm able to get *and keep in mind, this is Southern Mississippi in an ambient 80F house, an UNDER PRIME 95 LOAD at 25 minutes it went from 23C to 38C! that's a TON better than 70's! oh btw, +rep for the suggestions







thanks again and now a REALLY proud owner of an H50 in Push Pull

Gratz Brother! Those are definitely temps worth some swagger on here







Just out of curiosity, what TIM did you end up using?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bobehud* 
Anyone else ever use the Ultra Kaze 3k's have a pair on my H70-noisy.Yes.But they move a great deal of air.Lost 8-9c over a DarkKnight that had been Modded as far as it could go.
Had a domino cooler that leaked and cost me a MoBo and PS Microcenter was great gave me credit on everything now im running the H70.Good folks to deal with.

Glad to hear my uber-manly ears aren't alone out here







I've spent a couple hundred dollars easily on different fans and TIMs over the past year or so and these fans are the best at meeting my demands. IMO the noise is negligible when you're gaming or jamming to some music like I almost always am anyway. And you're not joking man I keep waiting for my HAF X to just bust loose of the chords and start trying to run me over =)
To me, these fans are also a great way to set aside the paranoia voiced by a lot of users that are reluctant to blow the rad exhaust into their case(mine is front intake but I'd be surprised if the air barreling out of these things has enough time do more than shake loose a single dust particle on it's way across my mobo and out my rear exhaust^^).
Doesn't have far to go either....my H70 is now measuring a whopping 9.3" in length xD


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
Some pics of my new setup , took me all yesterday to put it together . Had abit of troubles getting good temps at first with my arctic silver i tried the pea method , the line method it wouldnt idle under 50c and tj maxed in prime a few times it was piszn me off . I got my index finger and rubbed on the tim counterclockwise to the cpu and pump making sure it got nice coverage no air bubbles etc , i pushed the pump as hard as i could to the cpu while tightning the bracket screws as tight as they can be and finally after reseating 6 times i got the temps i wanted .

Im 99% sure the majority of people here using a h50 that are experiencing bad temps have not seated the pump correctly nor applied the correct amount of tim or did it in the right procedure . Iv literally reseated my pump over 20 times to get the results im getting now i didnt just pull it out of the box and magically get these temps , its just trial and error . Keep reseating and try different methods of applying the TIM , also push the pump as hard as u can to the cpu while your doing up the screws it can help











































Nice dude but PLEASE do explain how in the hell did you manage to get the H50 screwed on the top rear fan?! All of us couldn't do that because there is a gap blocking the H50 to be screwed in. How in the world did you do that? Details at the fullest please how did you install that upper rear fan of the 1200? I have the same case and i hated having mine above by the video card but i didn't want heat to transfer into my RAD thus having more temps. So i had tried to use the top rear exhaust fan and it was no go because of the width and gap blocking to install it. So i installed it as a intake in front of my drive cage bay using a fan bracket the antec comes with and screwed it on the front and attaching another fan inside to blow air through.

I don't have a exhaust fan on the rad cuz i already have a internal fan blowing away from it. I'll show ya my pics..










This is what i had to do. I intend to get a new motherboard and cpu this month or next, tired of using 775 sockets and i wanted to get a H70 or another H50 but would love to know how you had no problem mounting it on top of the rear fan? Explain please?


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]* 
Nice dude but PLEASE do explain how in the hell did you manage to get the H50 screwed on the top rear fan?! All of us couldn't do that because there is a gap blocking the H50 to be screwed in. How in the world did you do that? Details at the fullest please how did you install that upper rear fan of the 1200? I have the same case and i hated having mine above by the video card but i didn't want heat to transfer into my RAD thus having more temps. So i had tried to use the top rear exhaust fan and it was no go because of the width and gap blocking to install it. So i installed it as a intake in front of my drive cage bay using a fan bracket the antec comes with and screwed it on the front and attaching another fan inside to blow air through.

I don't have a exhaust fan on the rad cuz i already have a internal fan blowing away from it. I'll show ya my pics..










This is what i had to do. I intend to get a new motherboard and cpu this month or next, tired of using 775 sockets and i wanted to get a H70 or another H50 but would love to know how you had no problem mounting it on top of the rear fan? Explain please?
















Thats how initially wanted to do it , but i wasn bothered screwing up the plastic housing so i just put a nice blue led fan in there ...creates a nice wind tunnel for my 5850 .

as for the radiator im not too sure , i think i had to put some tension upwards while i was screwing in the back so the holes lined up but they were only a mm off and i got it in perfectly . i didnt encounter any problems ? perhaps this is a newer revision of the case and they have picked up on these things and improved it ? just a thought but here i took some snaps for u to see how close it is to the base of the fan...

















You can see here that the radiator is not even a mm off touching the base of the fan , i suppose if u really had to have it there u could cut out that section of the base so the radiator would fit ? do the screw holes line up for u?


----------



## kingofyo1

@slimbrady using Antec 77064 Thermal Grease... comes in 3 small packs, doing 5 dots on the proc left me with over 3/4 of one of the packs! it'll last a while, and its pretty decent stuff IMO


----------



## jay826

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


are you positive its the pump making the noise ?


It sure sounded like it but I figured out the problem. There was a dust buildup on the exhaust side of the radiator already and I just cleaned it up and no more problems.. I never thought so much dust could get there in about 2 weeks since I don't really leave my computer on. Thanks for the help though!


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jay826* 
It sure sounded like it but I figured out the problem. There was a dust buildup on the exhaust side of the radiator already and I just cleaned it up and no more problems.. I never thought so much dust could get there in about 2 weeks since I don't really leave my computer on. Thanks for the help though!

http://www.demcifilter.com/

Problem solved.


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jay826* 
It sure sounded like it but I figured out the problem. There was a dust buildup on the exhaust side of the radiator already and I just cleaned it up and no more problems.. I never thought so much dust could get there in about 2 weeks since I don't really leave my computer on. Thanks for the help though!

geez... kinda makes me wanna flip my fans around as an exhaust. With 3 cats in the house, there's bound to be a ton of cat hair in there eventually if I'm not careful >.>


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kingofyo1* 
@slimbrady using Antec 77064 Thermal Grease... comes in 3 small packs, doing 5 dots on the proc left me with over 3/4 of one of the packs! it'll last a while, and its pretty decent stuff IMO

Hmm, hadn't heard of that one....thermal resistance is a little too high for my liking but I don't like very many things so don't take that the wrong way
















Interesting to hear a company officially recommend dot methods to their users. Either they think very highly of you or they have figured out a way to make it reliably spread without air pockets....

I've been using IC7D because....well....I love my cpu and we all know nothing says love like diamonds baby!!
Couldn't resist







But seriously...how funny would one of those black and white 'buy her diamonds you can't really afford or she's going to leave you because you don't really love her" commercials be if they kept the narration ambiguous and surprise ended it with a thermal grease plug and a guy embracing his tower with his back to his wife, who's staring daggers at him from the doorway?







..probably not that funny but cut me some slack, I've been following this thread waaaaaayyyy too long and am trying to cope.

Umm...I think had a point here somewhere....oh....don't feel like you now need to spend more money on more grease....the performance gap between the best and worst is still small enough to count using just your fingers^^
But if you're suffering from a sickness, like most of us here, and find yourself dreading summer and all it's clock-blocking(TM) warm weather, stock sunshine and blue screens - errr....skies then, if I may make a suggestion, the new batch of Shin-etsu or Indigo Extreme.
Your temps are already great for 24/7 use but you can still squeeze a couple degrees more from your cooling, hehe.

My next wise and vitally important business investment will be benefiting Indigo Extreme, I believe. I think it's something like .004 away from being fire....and it freaking applies itself and eliminates the chance of user error.
Anybody tried this stuff? Seems to me it's just about reached the pinnacle of what a TIM can do for your cpu, but maybe they just have an excellent marketing team


----------



## Dartoras

HAF 912 Plus


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dartoras*


HAF 912 Plus










ok im officially interested... did it improve performance at all with adding the res? what liquid did you replace the standard fluid with?


----------



## [email protected]

Maybe it is a newer version so it fits? Man i want better pics. Is there a possiblity you can take off that window panel so i can get a closer look and see the gap with between your rad and the fan? I would love a clear picture. Thanks for your time man! I have been meaning to get a H70 but i'm afraid it may not fit so i may have no choice but get another h50 because the new motherboard is a i7 and i would need a different backplate and i lost it somewhere in my closet. Thanks for the tip. rep+


----------



## KGIXXER7

I would like to join please








H50 Push/Pull

Attachment 181140
Attachment 181141


----------



## DJ4g63t

Anyone using the Coolermaster Blade Master fans on their h50/h70? I'm tempted to try a couple to replace my CM R4's. The blade master's cfm (76.8) and static pressure (3.90mmH2O) ratings look good.


----------



## Nawamin

Finally just got done. Had trouble with Air Cool with 2 different set of heat-sink. I couldn't keep the temp below 60C where my room temp is only 25-28C. I thought I would try H50, no joy







temp still the same









I'm new to this OCing thing anyway but decided to take a big jump lapping my 35 days old 1090T.

WooooooW, I thought I was dreaming







. My desktop is P95ing right now and I custom set it to FFT 8K in-place for about 45 min and temp is 47-48C









Talking about 10C+ dropped... hahaha for all I know my Air probably give me the same temp if I would have lapp my CPU









At any rate, H50 looked much better then a heat-sink the size of a school bus anyway. So, H50 stay!

Here are some pics of my 1090T pre lapping










Post lapping









And here she is Miss H50.


----------



## Nawamin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t* 
Anyone using the Coolermaster Blade Master fans on their h50/h70? I'm tempted to try a couple to replace my CM R4's. The blade master's cfm (76.8) and static pressure (3.90mmH2O) ratings look good.


I am using CM BM as a pull fan but using Ultra Kaze as a push.


----------



## [email protected]

I don't mean to rude but i swear that lapping looks horrible on the cpu unless it's the picture. Should be a mirror finish.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]* 
I don't mean to rude but i swear that lapping looks horrible on the cpu unless it's the picture. Should be a mirror finish.

It is... have a look at the second pic.


----------



## Dartoras

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kingofyo1* 
ok im officially interested... did it improve performance at all with adding the res? what liquid did you replace the standard fluid with?

The H50 have a lot of air inside 38c idle and 56+ load
the fluid is Zalman ZM-G200
after modding 23c idle and 44c load(my cpu running at 4k up from default 3.2)


----------



## Nawamin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]* 
I don't mean to rude but i swear that lapping looks horrible on the cpu unless it's the picture. Should be a mirror finish.

No, not at all. The first pic was 30 min in to the process. The 2nd is finished product and I was using the push fan as a reference object. You can see the reflection of the fan hub


----------



## Zippy476

How would a H70 hold up on a UD3P with a Q9550 @4.0?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]* 
I don't mean to rude but i swear that lapping looks horrible on the cpu unless it's the picture. Should be a mirror finish.

You don't need a mirror finish getting to that point is just for looks.

http://www.modsynergy.com/article6.htm

Look at step 5.


----------



## Epsi

Replaced my H50 for a new H70.



















Dont look at the minimum temps, prime was already running while i opened HWmonitor.

Yesterday i reached 53c after 20 min prime without shrouds. Now i run with 2 shrouds made of old fans. Temp was slowly rising toward 43c but only 1 min passed, so will be a little higher wen running longer.


----------



## Nawamin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Epsi*


Replaced my H50 for a new H70.

Dont look at the minimum temps, prime was already running while i opened HWmonitor.

Yesterday i reached 53c after 20 min prime without shrouds. Now i run with 2 shrouds made of old fans. Temp was slowly rising toward 43c but only 1 min passed, so will be a little higher wen running longer.



Nice fan







.

For days I thought there was something wrong with my power supply 12 volt rails. HWmonitor showing my 12 Volt is 11.58, your is showing the same too. Have you try using Probe II to see what is your voltage on the 12 volt rail? Mine was 11.95 volt. BTW I have the same motherboard.

Nice temp for FFT 1024K, FFT 8K in-place will give you more CPU work out and a little higher temp. I ran 8K if I wanted to see max temp.


----------



## Epsi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nawamin*


Nice fan







.

For days I thought there was something wrong with my power supply 12 volt rails. HWmonitor showing my 12 Volt is 11.58, your is showing the same too. Have you try using Probe II to see what is your voltage on the 12 volt rail? Mine was 11.95 volt. BTW I have the same motherboard.

Nice temp for FFT 1024K, FFT 8K in-place will give you more CPU work out and a little higher temp. I ran 8K if I wanted to see max temp.


Thanks for telling, will try FFT 8K also.

And yes same here, Probe II showing me 11.95v. So nothing wrong with ur PSU.


----------



## skoop

I'm really interested in getting started with liquid cooling by using either the H50 or H70.

Whats the difference between the 2 other than the H70 is more expensive ?


----------



## kingofyo1

radiator size pretty much


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


Originally Posted by *skoop* 
I'm really interested in getting started with liquid cooling by using either the H50 or H70.

Whats the difference between the 2 other than the H70 is more expensive ?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *kingofyo1* 
radiator size pretty much

Yup and also the H70 comes with 2 fans that maxed out at 2K RPM (H50 fan only goes up to 1700 RPM), a low profile pump, shorter hoses which are now swivel at the pump end.


----------



## sto12m

Hi everyone! I found this club before i get my H50, thanks to all for your sharing.

I've put everything up. Using two 12cm CoolerMaster fan (90CFM) for push pull (no extra shroud YET).

CPU: AMD X4 955BE at stock speed 3.2GHz.

Idle is 34C. Full load with prime95 is 58C.

Is this normal? Maybe I've moved/turned it to much once I've put the pump in contact with the processor? Should I take out everything and reapply new paste and add a shroud to the exhaust side?


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sto12m*


Hi everyone! I found this club before i get my H50, thanks to all for your sharing.

I've put everything up. Using two 12cm CoolerMaster fan (90CFM) for push pull (no extra shroud YET).

CPU: AMD X4 955BE at stock speed 3.2GHz.

Idle is 34C. Full load with prime95 is 58C.

Is this normal? Maybe I've moved/turned it to much once I've put the pump in contact with the processor? Should I take out everything and reapply new paste and add a shroud to the exhaust side?


58C is pretty warm for P95 especially at stock speed. I would def apply new paste and try reseating the pump. Too much or too little paste will hurt temps. What are you ambient temps? Hows the airflow in your case?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sto12m* 
Hi everyone! I found this club before i get my H50, thanks to all for your sharing.

I've put everything up. Using two 12cm CoolerMaster fan (90CFM) for push pull (no extra shroud YET).

CPU: AMD X4 955BE at stock speed 3.2GHz.

Idle is 34C. Full load with prime95 is 58C.

Is this normal? Maybe I've moved/turned it to much once I've put the pump in contact with the processor? Should I take out everything and reapply new paste and add a shroud to the exhaust side?









What the..... No that is not normal. You're about 10 degrees too high. Something is most seriously wrong with your setup. Read the posts here from other people with the same set-up. You'll find it very educational.
P.S. you stand a chance of frying your CPU when you run it that high. 55 C should be max temp for 24/7 operation.


----------



## DJ4g63t

After a quick google search it appears that a lot of people are reporting higher than normal temps with the X4 955 BE cpu at stock speed/voltage.


----------



## sto12m

room ambient is around 30C. not many air flow options for my CM USP-100 casing (http://www.coolermaster.com/product....category_id=19).

now only one stock fan intake from the front and the h50 rad push pull at the back (exhaust from casing).

if reapply? which should I use? AS5 or MXII?


----------



## sto12m

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*









What the..... No that is not normal. You're about 10 degrees too high. Something is most seriously wrong with your setup. Read the posts here from other people with the same set-up. You'll find it very educational. 
P.S. you stand a chance of frying your CPU when you run it that high. 55 C should be max temp for 24/7 operation.










Oh man.. this really worries me. I never off my pc, but ofcourse not full time at peak processing @@

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


After a quick google search it appears that a lot of people are reporting higher than normal temps with the X4 955 BE cpu at stock speed/voltage.


That doesn't sound good.. How would I even dare to increase a single bit of core speed









Maybe I'll go with a reseat using AS5, do I need to polish the contact surface on the pump?


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sto12m* 
room ambient is around 30C. not many air flow options for my CM USP-100 casing (http://www.coolermaster.com/product....category_id=19).

now only one stock fan intake from the front and the h50 rad push pull at the back (exhaust from casing).

if reapply? which should I use? AS5 or MXII?

30C are pretty warm ambient temps and that would def play a role in your high cpu temps. Are you using any fans on the side panel and floor openings to pull in some cooler air?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sto12m*


room ambient is around 30C. not many air flow options for my CM USP-100 casing (http://www.coolermaster.com/product....category_id=19).

now only one stock fan intake from the front and the h50 rad push pull at the back (exhaust from casing).

if reapply? which should I use? AS5 or MXII?


Ambient is 30C !!!







Are you kidding? I guess I should have asked that from the start. Cooling on the H50 is DIRECTLY proportional to your ambient air temps. If you were at a "normal" room temp of 20C that would mean you'd have 28 C idle and 48 C load which is much more reasonable though still a bit high for a stock 955 (i.e. perhaps 2 degrees off). In other words I wouldn't be overclocking with those ambient temps or even benchmarking at stock too much. Don't worry about it for normal operation though.
P.S. My god man...get some friggin air conditioning!!!!!


----------



## WigglesTheHoly

This thread is HUGE, so forgive me for not looking through the entire thing to try and find my answers. Right now I'm using a thermaltake aircooler with a push and pull. I would like to go to a liquid cool and over clock my i5 to 4.2 would the h70 keep my temps low enough I'd like to hit 30c idle and 50 and below under load.


----------



## Archer S

Quote:



over clock my i5 to 4.2 would the h70 keep my temps low enough I'd like to hit 30c idle and 50 and below under load.


Mine surely doesnt. I have the H50 im overclocked to 3.5ghz on an i5 750 and i idle at 34*c and load at 62*c

I highly doubt the H70 is THAT much better than my H50, there's no way i could hit 4ghz on my i5 with it, ive reseated it almost 5 times, tried every fan/shroud config there is, and its just not getting the job done.


----------



## Plex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Archer S*


Mine surely doesnt. I have the H50 im overclocked to 3.5ghz on an i5 750 and i idle at 34*c and load at 62*c

I highly doubt the H70 is THAT much better than my H50, there's no way i could hit 4ghz on my i5 with it, ive reseated it almost 5 times, tried every fan/shroud config there is, and its just not getting the job done.


Ambient temps? Case airflow? Just some of many other contributing factors. I get the same load temp as you do only I'm clocked at 4.1.


----------



## Archer S

Quote:



Ambient temps? Case airflow? Just some of many other contributing factors


Ambient 21*C Case airflow is good. antec 902 with the H50 mounted as intake at the back of the case push pull GTAP15. big top fan sucks all of that air right out. i also did try to run the system with all the fans except the rad ones turned off, so they dont influence airflow (same thing as running outside a case), no temp change.


----------



## Bobehud

Antec 900 old school-had a DK with push-pull and a 955 c3 3.9 1.525v temps were okay-ish..idle 34c-load 54-56c room temp 72-74f..(yes i know the v is high i didnt get a good chip)...
Went with the H70 changed out fans to the Sycthe UK 3K's and have it pulling into the case,the Antec has a huge 200mm fan on top gets rid of all warm air quickly.
Now nice and stable at 4040 with same room temp looking at HWMonitor RIGHT now
30-31c flipping back and forth--have yet to see 50c even under Prime Max temp torture test..can run OCCT as long as i like-still 46-48c tops.In the am when its a little cooler idle temps are right at room temp and barely break 40c.
was able to back my CPU V down to 1.500 why i have no clue it just works.
Yes it sounds like i have a small jet by my desk,but eh im okay with that.


----------



## MCBrown.CA

I want to change up my setup a little and I'm considering selling my Megahalems and getting a H70. From what I understand the H70 may lag a little behind the Megahalems in temps (depending on fan config) but lets face it, most ~4Ghz overclocks these days aren't heat limited. I've got a couple nice fans with high static pressure so I would likely use a single fan to cut down on noise.

I will be upgrading the rest of my system to i7/Thuban in the next 2-3 months so the H70 will be going on that too...

H70 or stick with Megatron?


----------



## Munkypoo7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MCBrown.CA*


I want to change up my setup a little and I'm considering selling my Megahalems and getting a H70. From what I understand the H70 may lag a little behind the Megahalems in temps (depending on fan config) but lets face it, most ~4Ghz overclocks these days aren't heat limited. I've got a couple nice fans with high static pressure so I would likely use a single fan to cut down on noise.

I will be upgrading the rest of my system to i7/Thuban in the next 2-3 months so the H70 will be going on that too...

H70 or stick with Megatron?


Only consider the sidegrade if you need the ram clearance, otherwise the H70 will probably only shave 2 or 3C off your current temp anyways...

Or if you prefer a cleaner look (some people like the large heatsink look, my brother loves his TRUE black with dual fans, to each his own ^^)... the whole "smaller, same performance as a high end air cooler, cleaner look" was a huge selling point for me, for some maybe not, but that part is a hugely opinionated area









Actually, scratch that, an H70 really should utilize two fans due to the fact it had a thick rad... I don't know if you'll gain anything at all without using both fans :\\


----------



## Enfluenza

does my asetek count?


----------



## reaper~

^ Nice 240 rad you got there. It makes me wanna switch. lol









Edit: btw, I cleaned up that spreadsheet and also rearranged the fan spreadsheet in alphabetical orders. Hope you guys don't mind.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *reaper~* 
^

Edit: btw, I cleaned up that spreadsheet and also rearranged the fan spreadsheet in alphabetical orders. Hope you guys don't mind.

Re:fan spreadsheet - no problem with that at all. Thanks for spending the time in cleaning it up.


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Re:fan spreadsheet - no problem with that at all. Thanks for spending the time in cleaning it up.

You're welcome, Seth.







Figured it's the least I can do for our beloved thread & community.


----------



## SilverSS/SC

I'm in. Here is my new set-up. Please excuse the quality of the pics.....taken with my phone.

Rig in Sig.

Temps @ stock currently (will overclock soon, just got the rig back together)

Idle: 28*C
Load: 39*C
Ambient: 22.2*C

How are the temps?


----------



## sto12m

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t* 
30C are pretty warm ambient temps and that would def play a role in your high cpu temps. Are you using any fans on the side panel and floor openings to pull in some cooler air?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Garanthor* 
Ambient is 30C !!!







Are you kidding? I guess I should have asked that from the start. Cooling on the H50 is DIRECTLY proportional to your ambient air temps. If you were at a "normal" room temp of 20C that would mean you'd have 28 C idle and 48 C load which is much more reasonable though still a bit high for a stock 955 (i.e. perhaps 2 degrees off). In other words I wouldn't be overclocking with those ambient temps or even benchmarking at stock too much. Don't worry about it for normal operation though.
P.S. My god man...get some friggin air conditioning!!!!!









Thanks guys, I'll probably reseat with AS5, add a shroud and 1 or 2 fans to intake more air into the casing. I only rent the place, not eligible for an aircond upgrade..







thx again


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Archer S* 
Mine surely doesnt. I have the H50 im overclocked to 3.5ghz on an i5 750 and i idle at 34*c and load at 62*c

I highly doubt the H70 is THAT much better than my H50, there's no way i could hit 4ghz on my i5 with it, ive reseated it almost 5 times, tried every fan/shroud config there is, and its just not getting the job done.

Well i have my i7 870 @ 4.2 ghz / 1.392v / HT on / TURBO on ..... 39/39/38/38 idle on a fairly warm day and the computer has been on for hours , 75 degrees 100% load in prime . Playing nfs hot pursuit or cod black ops maxed out doesnt seem to get over 65 degrees so im happy with that .

Its obvious you have done something wrong ... If my h50 can cool down my i7 at those speeds im sure it would have no troubles with your i5 . Shrouds dont really acomplish anything i have tried shrouds on my setup and it didnt do anything .

Try some new good quality fans such as noctua , try different thermal paste or try putting the radiator somewhere else ? i reseated my pump atleast 20 times before i was happy with my results ... Its all trial and error . Iv said it once ill say it again , the h50/70 is not that great out of the box but get some good push pull fans and some decent TIM along with mounting it 100% right u should have really good temperatures.

When i first installed my h50 out of the box , i looked at my temps and was like *** what a waste of money i was idling at around 55c @ 3.5 ghz it was rediculous . Iv played around with it quite abit now got some noctua push pull fans , arctic silver 5 thermal paste n im pleased to say i love my h50 <3 for the measly 150 bucks i payed for it i cant complain .


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SilverSS/SC* 
I'm in. Here is my new set-up. Please excuse the quality of the pics.....taken with my phone.

Rig in Sig.

Temps @ stock currently (will overclock soon, just got the rig back together)

Idle: 28*C
Load: 39*C
Ambient: 22.2*C

How are the temps?

Pics seem fine (first one's a little blurry). I mean we've seen worse. lol Also your temps seem about right but then again I don't have an AMD chip.


----------



## YoursTruly

So here it is.. Unfortunately I bought the Tecnofront airbox 120 plexi before I finished researching. It certainly eats up a fair bit of space! Anyway, Right now its set up as just an initial test situation. I moved the 120mm case fan to the push, and put the corsair supplied fan as the pull. I don't have a shroud inbetween the radiator and the pull fan as the airbox would mean the radiator would be chewed at by the 140mm top fan. So, eventually I'll just make my own 120mm fan shroud. I have Cooler master R4s ready to be installed too, but at the moment, I want to see what I'll get with this set up so i can have a mark to gain from.

Did anyone else find their retention plate on the back a bit tricky to screw into? I have only 1 of those metal things popped into its proper position, the other 3 popped out and rotated. Their all pretty much as tight as it will go without stripping the threads... Is this the right thing to do?










Once I get my ram in the mail I'll let you know some temperatures!This is a 100% brand new rig, never run before so It may require some time before i start benching.


----------



## slimbrady

The mounting method which has proven, to me, to be the most reliable and easy after something like 20-30 mounts(H50 then H70) is to screw 3 of the screws just 1 turn into the plate(leaving 4th loose but inserted into bracket and ready to tighten made the process much easier for me than having all 4 1 turn in for some reason) then, with one hand, pull with enough tension to raise the bracket as far as it will go without ripping the screws from the plate - make sure you have raised all the sides and one side or corner isn't stuck. While doing this with one hand, use the other to place the block just far enough down to slip into the ring and be turned to secure the tabs but keep opposing pressure the whole time to make sure you don't mess up the TIM. Once it is locked in you should be able to switch your hand from the mounting bracket to the block and use your other, now free, hand to cross-tighten the screws. Make sure to do this slowly and carefully to allow an even spread of the TIM.


----------



## SilverSS/SC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reaper~*


Pics seem fine (first one's a little blurry). I mean we've seen worse. lol Also your temps seem about right but then again I don't have an AMD chip.










Thanks! Yeah, the temps aren't too bad, but I was hopeing for a little bit better, especially since I'm using two Yate Loon High Speed fans in Push/Pull on the H70.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimbrady*


The mounting method which has proven, to me, to be the most reliable and easy after something like 20-30 mounts(H50 then H70) is to screw 3 of the screws just 1 turn into the plate(leaving 4th loose but inserted into bracket and ready to tighten made the process much easier for me than having all 4 1 turn in for some reason) then, with one hand, pull with enough tension to raise the bracket as far as it will go without ripping the screws from the plate - make sure you have raised all the sides and one side or corner isn't stuck. While doing this with one hand, use the other to place the block just far enough down to slip into the ring and be turned to secure the tabs but keep opposing pressure the whole time to make sure you don't mess up the TIM. Once it is locked in you should be able to switch your hand from the mounting bracket to the block and use your other, now free, hand to cross-tighten the screws. Make sure to do this slowly and carefully to allow an even spread of the TIM.


That is correct , couldnt of said it better myself . tighten the screws on the bracket so they just catch on . Pull the bracket towards you while inserting the pump so as u said u dont ruin the TIM , once the pump is inserted and locked in give the pump a nice pull towards you so everything is tight n then screw down all 4 screws evenly . I had to reseat as many times as you did before i left it alone .


----------



## Liranan

This is one of the best threads I've ever read. Thank you all a lot for all the advice, it convinced me I should get an H70 and I don't regret it for a second.


----------



## chowtyme2

Just replaced the Vendetta 2 with an Push/Pull H50.
Dropped 12 Degrees C..
WOW.

now just need to find some quiter fans...

What is a good fan and rpm to run with this.
It was a used unit. so it didnt have the stock fans?
Prime Full Load on a [email protected] 20x200 4.002 ghz running at 64C


----------



## slimbrady

if you want quiet performance then get the gentle typhoon ap15's if you can find them. Pure performance look to 32mm+ fans.


----------



## Dartoras

New Photo with sapphire block








idle:36c
load:56c
at 4017MHz stable!!!!!


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dartoras*


New Photo with sapphire block

idle:36c
load:56c
at 4017MHz stable!!!!!


So when are you going to get a real pump???







seams silly to keep the H50 as just a pump..... and when you get a new pump you can get a 240 or larger rad... and get that temp even lower...

Congrats on the good looking rig... with the blue (Sapphire) color water your keeping well with the gigabyte colors ...


----------



## Shademaster

Alright I discovered something crappy about the H50.

I am busy installing it in my Phantom rig and whenever I slightly bend the tubes my temps go up a solid 10 degrees.

*H50 non bend tubes temps:*

min: 48 C
max: 69 C

*H50 bend tubes temps:*

min: 53 C
max: 80 C

Anyone else have this? Is my unit faulty or are the tubes under too much stress? I reseated the unit and twisted in such a way the tubes aren't under any stress and I still get erratic temps.

What is up?


----------



## Magus2727

how are you able to test the tube bent and unbent? air flow is still a huge factor, if you have it installed in your case in the "bent" case then what are your ambients? what about in the strait case? do you have case open and are holding/placed the H50 radiator in an environment that may be 10* cooler?

it takes more work to push fluid through a bent hose then a strait, with the narrow lines on the H50 you will see perhaps a degree or so difference on "more" bending due to the pump working harder.


----------



## Shademaster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


how are you able to test the tube bent and unbent? air flow is still a huge factor, if you have it installed in your case in the "bent" case then what are your ambients? what about in the strait case? do you have case open and are holding/placed the H50 radiator in an environment that may be 10* cooler?

it takes more work to push fluid through a bent hose then a strait, with the narrow lines on the H50 you will see perhaps a degree or so difference on "more" bending due to the pump working harder.


I tested it by switching off all fans in my system and stresstesting the system for an hour per test result. This way old air would be recycled so both tests would yield the same results.

I am reapplying TIM at the moment and seeing if that got a positive effect







.


----------



## Magus2727

I guess what i am trying to ask, is how are you able to test both bent and unbent keeping the same ambient temps and air flow characteristics...


----------



## Shademaster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


I guess what i am trying to ask, is how are you able to test both bent and unbent keeping the same ambient temps and air flow characteristics...


I have also tested these temps with the radiator outside of the case, as soon as I bend it temps fly up.

I reapplied some cheap a$$ TIM and now temps are 90+, need to order some mx3







.


----------



## Magus2727

look at lapping the H50.... the warranty will still hold and Corsair would "recommend" it...

The base plates have not had the consistency of other higher end coolers...


----------



## test tube

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


Yeah man , i got 2 noctua s12b's and it made a considerable difference . then i got arctic silver 5 and it improved again ..Where is your radiator located ? is there sufficient airflow to it ?

h70 has 14cm fans am i right ? you should be certainly getting lower temps than that . I get those temps on an i7 @4.2ghz on my h50 . i7s run hot .

But if your cpu runs fine and ur sayin u can prime overnight i wouldnt worry about it.


Yeah there is sufficient airflow, the case is modded kind of ****tily to allow for really good airflow










i think i win the contest for worst case mod for an h70... there's a 1500RPM scythe fan on the right doing intake and then it immediately outtakes through the H70


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *test tube*


Yeah there is sufficient airflow, the case is modded kind of ****tily to allow for really good airflow

i think i win the contest for worst case mod for an h70... there's a 1500RPM scythe fan on the right doing intake and then it immediately outtakes through the H70


Yep, your right... mofo ugly. But hey, if it works Im sure you will come up with a more elegant solution. What are your temps like?


----------



## zombo

Cool setup Dartoras







I agree on getting a sweet new pump though!


----------



## test tube

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Yep, your right... mofo ugly. But hey, if it works Im sure you will come up with a more elegant solution. What are your temps like?

Maxing out at 64C (2C greater than recommended by AMD) at 1.525v... I think it's the fans though/stock thermal paste/stock lapping job. This solution worked wonders for my 212+ and dropped the load temps about 8C.

Interestingly the on die CPU temperature is only getting to 41C... These are notoriously inaccurate on phenom II's, however these are a full 10C different than they were with the 212+, so I think the socket is getting hotter than the actual CPU. Perhaps there is just a limit to the amount of voltage you can put through the socket.

If I ever have time I'm going to design a custom vent for the front that looks nice... And if I ever have the money I'll just buy a new case.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *test tube* 
Maxing out at 64C (2C greater than recommended by AMD) at 1.525v... I think it's the fans though/stock thermal paste/stock lapping job. This solution worked wonders for my 212+ and dropped the load temps about 8C.

Interestingly the on die CPU temperature is only getting to 41C... These are notoriously inaccurate on phenom II's, however these are a full 10C different than they were with the 212+, so I think the socket is getting hotter than the actual CPU. Perhaps there is just a limit to the amount of voltage you can put through the socket.

If I ever have time I'm going to design a custom vent for the front that looks nice... And if I ever have the money I'll just buy a new case.









Agree with the fans and the lap. Stock TIM is Shin Etsu - its good stuff but they wack it on the cold plate like spack filler... truely, you dont need that much.

Having a look at your pic, the other thing that jumps out at me is your cable management. If you can clean that up, that a cheap and quick hit towards better air flow and lower temps.

Im assuming your rad is on the side... next to your GPU? Gonna be a little warm in that position. Is there anywhere else you can place the rad?


----------



## Xristo

Just added a 25mm shroud , didnt drop my temperatures at all using noctua s12b fans.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
Just added a 25mm shroud , didnt drop my temperatures at all using noctua s12b fans.

Try using two... one either side of the rad. I didnt get much benefit from using just one.


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
Just added a 25mm shroud , didnt drop my temperatures at all using noctua s12b fans.

Try going to a pull setup. Pull is always better especially from a fluid dynamics pov.


----------



## VZif

my temps seem to run a solid 29-30 on idles and never get over 40-42 at load (aka BFBC2)


----------



## Plex

Quote:


Originally Posted by *VZif* 
my temps seem to run a solid 29-30 on idles and never get over 40-42 at load (aka BFBC2)

Are you at stock or something?


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tsm106* 
Try going to a pull setup. Pull is always better especially from a fluid dynamics pov.

Hey what do you mean pull setup ? atm mine is like this..

--> push --> shroud --> rad --> pull ^ exhaust


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Try using two... one either side of the rad. I didnt get much benefit from using just one.

Ill try it out n let you know thanks man , i got to find a fan to gut now hmmm

EDIT: 2 shrouds , no temperature difference . if any it isnt noticable but i do like the chunkiness of the cooler now with the 2 shrouds =D


----------



## kingofyo1

man, with the shrouds it does look beefy! mine should be here shortly, just hope that everything will fit with the shrouds  i may have to move it to the outside of teh case somehow


----------



## mekaw

I would personally ditch the noctua p12 fans


----------



## EmZkY

My brand new Fractal Design Define R3 case with the Asus P6X58D Premium and Corsair H50







About time I got rid of my butt ugly, noisy and dust eating HAF932. The H50 is in push/pull as top exhaust /w 2 Scythe Gentle Typhoon fans.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
Ill try it out n let you know thanks man , i got to find a fan to gut now hmmm

EDIT: 2 shrouds , no temperature difference . if any it isnt noticable but i do like the chunkiness of the cooler now with the 2 shrouds =D


Mmmmm... chunky









Something is not right... you should have seen some drop, just by virtue of eliminating the dead spot on the rad


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mekaw*


I would personally ditch the noctua p12 fans


Why's that?


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mekaw*


I would personally ditch the noctua p12 fans



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


Why's that?


NOCTUA P12 Fan Test


----------



## Plex

Hey H70 experts







.

I'm a new (and proud) owner of a H70. I bought an i7 950 along with it.

Last night, I took a total stab in the dark at the Vcore and set it to 1.25V. BLCK to 190(x21). I ran this at 4.01GHz stable (Prime95 for a couple hours) and temps never went over 69C. Is it safe to say this is a good result/batch? Does it sound like I have some headroom to push it further for 24/7 use? HT is off.

Thanks guys!!


----------



## alancsalt

You could compare that with others at **-~ i7 950 Overclockers Club ~-** or at the Intel core i7 9XX Series batch guide


----------



## Plex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


You could compare that with others at **-~ i7 950 Overclockers Club ~-** or at the Intel core i7 9XX Series batch guide


They said to come here >.>. Surely this is the right place.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Plex*


They said to come here >.>. Surely this is the right place.


For info on the H50/70, sure.

If you are only peaking at 69C in Prime, then I know I'd try to go higher. Your volts are in usual range for i7-950 at that clock, with HT/on. That's possibly why you are cooler for that clock.

Certainly not a "bad" batch i7-950.


----------



## SpykeZ

So I'm here to tell of a story. A story I was going to keep to myself but doing so may hinder the information for a new kid on the block. So you all get to hear my tale.

I have the H50, and the 800D. Most of you know the design of the 800d. Since the H50 came out, which is when I got mine, I had my radiator attached to the back fan. Now you can image how the hoses were looped with that. So the other day I found a 140mm fan in my box of goodies and I was all like ***bbq and moved my radiator to the rear top slot of the case and attached the 140mm to the back.

Didn't improve results but that's not what I Was after.

So I got back into folding. I'm OC'd as you see in the bottom sig, and while folding, I was hitting the same temps as I was as intel burn test. 57c. So.......I have this fan running in the front slot on the top case and was like hum, why didn't I put it there, it'd allow the hoses to be straighter and would make me feel a little better inside.

So I swap the fans.

I turn the computer back on

She roars

rawr..

I start folding back up.....my temps....dropped........10....effing.....celcius.. ....

10!!!!

RRAAAAAAAAAGGGGGGGEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

So now..all this time I have been FIGHTING to get 4.0ghz and couldn't because when I hit 60c when doing IBT I throw errors. Maybe....I CAN FINALLY HIT MY GOAL!!


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
NOCTUA P12 Fan Test










If your tryna point out they are loud i already know , but im not into the whole silent thing it doesnt bother me really . As for airflow i chose them cos of the 100cfm they produce . Are they really a bad fan to use ? Im using the s12b anyway apparently they are much quieter .


----------



## Magus2727

The thing to look at is air flow with back pressure. or what more commonly indicated is the static air pressure. I am not sure where the NOCTUA P12 Fan's sit on that... you can have a 200 CFM fan but if its got crappy performance with back pressure then it wont do much...


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
So I'm here to tell of a story. A story I was going to keep to myself but doing so may hinder the information for a new kid on the block. So you all get to hear my tale.

I have the H50, and the 800D. Most of you know the design of the 800d. Since the H50 came out, which is when I got mine, I had my radiator attached to the back fan. Now you can image how the hoses were looped with that. So the other day I found a 140mm fan in my box of goodies and I was all like ***bbq and moved my radiator to the rear top slot of the case and attached the 140mm to the back.

Didn't improve results but that's not what I Was after.

So I got back into folding. I'm OC'd as you see in the bottom sig, and while folding, I was hitting the same temps as I was as intel burn test. 57c. So.......I have this fan running in the front slot on the top case and was like hum, why didn't I put it there, it'd allow the hoses to be straighter and would make me feel a little better inside.

So I swap the fans.

I turn the computer back on

She roars

rawr..

I start folding back up.....my temps....dropped........10....effing.....celcius.. ....

10!!!!

RRAAAAAAAAAGGGGGGGEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

So now..all this time I have been FIGHTING to get 4.0ghz and couldn't because when I hit 60c when doing IBT I throw errors. Maybe....I CAN FINALLY HIT MY GOAL!!

So is it because the lines were to bent the pump coulnt flow properly or just the spot it was in was bad ? im wondering if i should move mine so the hoses are straighter...


----------



## SpykeZ

Pfff Im using 2 notcua p12's on my rad and keeps me nice and cool as it is. Especially now that I fixed my hose issue lmao


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
Pfff Im using 2 notcua p12's on my rad and keeps me nice and cool as it is. Especially now that I fixed my hose issue lmao

Thats what im sayin , these fans spin so fast you can hardly see the fins the airflow is crazy i can feel the difference over any other fan ive seen .


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
So is it because the lines were to bent the pump coulnt flow properly or just the spot it was in was bad ? im wondering if i should move mine so the hoses are straighter...

yep!!! I can only believe that the hoses, the way they are now, are less restrictive to the flow so it can cool better.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
The thing to look at is air flow with back pressure. or what more commonly indicated is the static air pressure. I am not sure where the NOCTUA P12 Fan's sit on that... you can have a 200 CFM fan but if its got crappy performance with back pressure then it wont do much...

Aww i get ya , so static pressure is a big role in cooling down the rad ? does anyone know the static pressure of the s12b ? im curious now .. should i use the original corsair fan for the push ?


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
Aww i get ya , so static pressure is a big role in cooling down the rad ? does anyone know the static pressure of the s12b ? im curious now .. should i use the original corsair fan for the push ?

Yes, their is the ability to move air with no resistance and then the ability to push it through a resistance (a radiator) thats why a 32mm+ thick fan was recommended generally a thicker fan produces better static air pressure.


----------



## Xristo

1.31 static pressure according to the back of the box ? whats that like compared to others..


----------



## Magus2727

what are the units?


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
1.31 static pressure according to the back of the box ? whats that like compared to others..

What measurement are they using? If its 1.31mmH2O then thats not very good at all. My cheapy CM R4's have 2.9mmH2O of static pressure.

EDIT: According to the Noctua website its mmH20 which makes the 1.31 rating pretty bad for a rad fan. On a side note they rate the air flow at 100.6 M3/H which I belive would translate into only 59cfm not the 100cfm you though(someone correct me if I'm wrong)

This is the correct fan right?
S12B

and this is where I'm getting my conversions from
Conversion Table


----------



## Magus2727

Found this.... about the stock fans...
Corsair rates the fans at 50.35-61.2 CFM, 1.8-2.3mm H20 static pressure (each) and 26-31.5dBA


----------



## Xristo

So im better of using the corsair fan as my push ? or will it f*** up my airflow having 2 different fans ? ill give it a go soon n see how i go .


----------



## SpykeZ

http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/c..._performance/3

heres a test on the P12 vs the S12 etc

[edit]

Also found this about my P12's

Quote:

While most conventional 120mm rotors possess seven comparably narrow fan blades, the NF-P12's Nine-Blade Design uses nine large, closely spaced blades with a relatively low angle of attack in order to achieve maximum static pressure and high airflow. As a result, the NF-P12 provides no less than 1.68 mm H2O at 1300 rpm, which is something that other fans merely achieve at 1600 rpm or more.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/c..._performance/3

heres a test on the P12 vs the S12 etc

[edit]

Also found this about my P12's

Yeah apparently the s12b have more airflow but less static pressure , im gunna try the corsair fan again.


----------



## Magus2727

Its a constant game about Air flow and static pressure, you need both a 30 CFM fan with 100mm H20 will still have issues just like a 100CFM with a .80mm H20 will have... you need to find a balance... between what you ears and pocket book can handle..

Two different fans will be fine, I have two fans on mine....


----------



## Xristo

Well i just put the corsair fan back into push and it didnt drop temperatures nor raise temps . So both of these fans are equal . Wasnt worth the effort .


----------



## Magus2727

welcome to fluid mechanics... You should see a small drop if you add a shroud to the intake and also the outlet to space the fans. this removes a dead spot caused by the motor on the fan right next to the radiator...

I have used old crappy 120mm fans and gutted them out... I gained about 2-3 deg drop


----------



## Xristo

did that yesterday , didnt do anything ? best setup was the 2 noctuas sandwiched on the rad n no shrouds . I guess it varys for everyone .


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
did that yesterday , didnt do anything ? best setup was the 2 noctuas sandwiched on the rad n no shrouds . I guess it varys for everyone .

Okay... I can suggest that you may make a 50mm shroud (join those 2 x 25mm shrouds together). Place it between you push fan and the rad and see it that helps. The sweet spot for shrouds are 32 mm but hey.

As a rule, you should use your stronger fan (both RPM and Static pressure) as the push fan.


----------



## looser101

Noctua S12b ~25cfm through a rad

VS.

Corsair H50 stock fan ~30cfm through a rad


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Noctua S12b ~25cfm through a rad

VS.

Corsair H50 stock fan ~30cfm through a rad

Hey looser101, havent seen you in a while... nice to see your helping out here still


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Hey looser101, havent seen you in a while... nice to see your helping out here still









Hey Sethy, it's nice to see you here. I always follow this thread. I try to help out when I can.

For those looking to possibly upgrade their fans you may want to have a look at the latest round of fan tests by Martin.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Hey Sethy, it's nice to see you here. I always follow this thread. I try to help out when I can.

For those looking to possibly upgrade their fans you may want to have a look at the latest round of fan tests by Martin.

The thread you posted is pure gold...especially useful for the H50/70 users.

Nicely found & thanks for posting it.


----------



## SilverSS/SC

I think I might need to reseat my H70. I tried my overclock since the new build, and my temps were really high. Rig in sig.

Prime 95 blend test after 30 minutes.

Temps:
Ambient - 19*C
Load - 61*C and rising.

Other than a re-seat, any other ideas? I have two Yate Loon High Speed fans in a push/pull setup. Thanks for the help!


----------



## moonslug

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SilverSS/SC* 
I think I might need to reseat my H70. I tried my overclock since the new build, and my temps were really high. Rig in sig.

Prime 95 blend test after 30 minutes.

Temps:
Ambient - 19*C
Load - 61*C and rising.

Other than a re-seat, any other ideas? I have two Yate Loon High Speed fans in a push/pull setup. Thanks for the help!

It's my understanding that 61C with an H70 is pretty good..? Were you expecting temps in the 50s?


----------



## SpykeZ

whats the max for the new amd's for temps? I know the 965 is 62c o.0


----------



## Lord Xeb

Anyone here with a Q6600 like mine running a H50? What kind of temps are you getting at load with ITB?


----------



## Plex

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SilverSS/SC* 
I think I might need to reseat my H70. I tried my overclock since the new build, and my temps were really high. Rig in sig.

Prime 95 blend test after 30 minutes.

Temps:
Ambient - 19*C
Load - 61*C and rising.

Other than a re-seat, any other ideas? I have two Yate Loon High Speed fans in a push/pull setup. Thanks for the help!

You're worried about 61C at load? Really?


----------



## Wubble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Plex* 
You're worried about 61C at load? Really?

I wish I had 61C at load :'(.


----------



## Plex

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wubble* 
I wish I had 61C at load :'(.

Don't we all







.


----------



## SilverSS/SC

Ok.....the max on my 1090t is 62*C. I was hoping for around 57*C or lower.


----------



## Lord Xeb

;_; and I got ignored...


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Plex* 
You're worried about 61C at load? Really?

Max safe load temps on amd cpu's are usually a lot lower than the max on intel cpus'.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SilverSS/SC* 
I think I might need to reseat my H70. I tried my overclock since the new build, and my temps were really high. Rig in sig.

Prime 95 blend test after 30 minutes.

Temps:
Ambient - 19*C
Load - 61*C and rising.

Other than a re-seat, any other ideas? I have two Yate Loon High Speed fans in a push/pull setup. Thanks for the help!

Before a reseat?

Configure for intake and slap on a shroud either side of the rad.

Make sure your tubes are not kinked or twisted.

What TIM are you using?

Ensure your pump and fans are at full speed.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lord Xeb* 
;_; and I got ignored...

Awww... hugs


----------



## Josh154

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lord Xeb* 
;_; and I got ignored...

I just bought a h50 with two xigmatek dark knight fans in push pull. I have a q6600 running at 3.6 at like 1.47 vcore and i will let you know what i get for temps after i get my h50.

Oh and BTW those who have modded there h50 is it worth it to add a swiftech micro res for $15 bucks?


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Josh154* 
I just bought a h50 with two xigmatek dark knight fans in push pull. I have a q6600 running at 3.6 at like 1.47 vcore and i will let you know what i get for temps after i get my h50.

Oh and BTW those who have modded there h50 is it worth it to add a swiftech micro res for $15 bucks?

yes it is. It'll drop temps a few C's


----------



## Josh154

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SpykeZ* 
yes it is. It'll drop temps a few C's

Alright ill pick up that res now then. What size tubing and barbs do i need?


----------



## Lord Xeb

Hm.... I am going to have to do all this secretly >.> Also thanks Josh. Let me know!!!

And how many C are we talking if I do a micro res? >.>

Although as it is right now I think I am going to hold of on it, but it is good to know at least.


----------



## DJ4g63t

I have a long weekend so I will most likely be lapping the H50 and my E8500 out of shear boredom. I may also play around with fan configuration in my case as well. I will most def post up some before and afters if I get the motivation to follow through.


----------



## Josh154

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lord Xeb* 
Hm.... I am going to have to do all this secretly >.> Also thanks Josh. Let me know!!!

And how many C are we talking if I do a micro res? >.>

Although as it is right now I think I am going to hold of on it, but it is good to know at least.

Do you actually have a h50 yourself and your doing the micro res mod? I just ordered mine and was thinking about adding a res to mine









Quote:


Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t* 
I have a long weekend so I will most likely be lapping the H50 and my E8500 out of shear boredom. I may also play around with fan configuration in my case as well. I will most def post up some before and afters if I get the motivation to follow through.

You sir just gave me a great idea! I'll think about lapping my q6600 and then we will see what happens when the h50 gets here


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Josh154* 
I just bought a h50 with two xigmatek dark knight fans in push pull. I have a q6600 running at 3.6 at like 1.47 vcore and i will let you know what i get for temps after i get my h50.

Oh and BTW those who have modded there h50 is it worth it to add a swiftech micro res for $15 bucks?

Willhemmens' Reservoir Mod


----------



## dockiks

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SilverSS/SC* 
I think I might need to reseat my H70. I tried my overclock since the new build, and my temps were really high. Rig in sig.

Prime 95 blend test after 30 minutes.

Temps:
Ambient - 19*C
Load - 61*C and rising.

Other than a re-seat, any other ideas? I have two Yate Loon High Speed fans in a push/pull setup. Thanks for the help!

Your temps are really high, esp since your ambient temp is low. There must be something wrong. My temps are as follows (using CPUID HWMonitor Pro):

Ambient: 30-32 C
Idle: 34-36 C
Load (LinX): 46-48 C

I have no shrouds, and have had the same temps since 1st mount 3months ago. I have good airflow though: 2x140mm Slipstream 1200RPM (front intake) 1x200mm Coolermaster Megaflow 700RPM (side panel intake), 1x180mm Thermaltake stock case fan 800RPM (top exhaust), 2x120mm GT-15's push/pull at max RPM with H70 (rear exhaust) and 1x140mm power supply fan in exhaust at bottom of case.

I don't think the tubes can be an issue since they are relatively rigid and thus can't be too bent or kinked like plastic hoses can. Your fans are good (Ceadderman swears by them often enough), and though you have 2 hot graphic cards (one of which does not vent air out the back), your case is big, spacious and has good options for great airflow and ventilation. If you have enough fans providing good airflow in the proper direction through your case, I'd look into checking the tightness of your screws which may be loose. If they're not, you might wanna try remounting the H70: the original TIM might have been smeared all over during installation. You'll have to put new TIM. And as has been mentioned, you need to make sure that your pump is running 100%. I'd do these before trying shrouds; lots of users don't have them, and those that do, just use them to further improve temps.


----------



## Josh154

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alancsalt* 
Willhemmens' Reservoir Mod

Lead's me right back to page 149 in this thread


----------



## Xristo

Im gonna put my notcua back in today and put both shrouds 50mm on the push side see what results i get.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Great thread!









Would you know if a H50 could fit inside an In-Win Fanqua case?

I know it has 120mm fan slots, but can it fit in there with the 220mm fan installed as well?









Thanks!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
Im gonna put my notcua back in today and put both shrouds 50mm on the push side see what results i get.

Id be interested to see what happens...


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Josh154* 
Lead's me right back to page 149 in this thread









Yes Josh, and its all about fitting a reservoir, as in "is it worth it to add a swiftech micro res for $15 bucks?"


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Id be interested to see what happens...

=D me too , youll be the first to know dont worry =p


----------



## Xristo

Well the 50mm shroud idea is out the window , i couldnt source screws long enough n i cant get to the hardware store atm plus i dont think it will make much of a difference . So i just put my noctua back in with a push shroud n thats it and im happy the way it is . The noctua dropped temps by about 1-2c they are definatly a better fan than what comes with it , u can actually feel how much more air it sucks in compared to the stock one .

@ 4.2ghz im ideling at 36/35/34/33 and prime temps are in the low 70's . Perfect for me since all i do is play games and the usual stuff so i know ill never see over 70c ever =) not bad for a h50 . I was using one of my mates quad core machines last night lol he was ideling at 60c @ 3.6ghz i lold at him so much . Get a h50 mate do ur cpu a favour .

Before i bought my h50 and my i7 i had no idea about cooling and how vital it is to a cpu . Iv learnt alot .


----------



## SpykeZ

how much does the rad on the H70 drop the temps?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
Well the 50mm shroud idea is out the window , i couldnt source screws long enough n i cant get to the hardware store atm plus i dont think it will make much of a difference . So i just put my noctua back in with a push shroud n thats it and im happy the way it is . The noctua dropped temps by about 1-2c they are definatly a better fan than what comes with it , u can actually feel how much more air it sucks in compared to the stock one .

Xristo, seeing you are in Australia, the screws that hold in 240AC powerpoint wall sockets are the same thread. You just need the ones out of a powerpoint socket with the extender block behind it. I used older mobo standoffs (same thread) joined up to extend them and drilled the shroud screw holes bigger to clear them.

Probably too much mucking around for you, but that's what I did.

50mm probably too big - check Radiator Fan Orientation and Shroud Testing


----------



## Xristo

Yeah im hearing 50mm is too big im just using 25mm for the moment it does a pretty good job , powerpoint wall socket screws hey nice find !! i wish the h50 came prepacked with extra screws that we might need later on but i guess its only us that like to modify them ;p

I have a question , Whats the advantage of having a resoiver ? and are there coolants that are better than whats already inside ? i just took a look at willhemens pc and i like the clear tubing and resoiver with the uv dye it would look really cool.

P.s Anyone using an antec 1200 case , the radiator will only fit uptop if the hoses are down the bottom . the chamber where the hoses are seems to be a few mm thicker than the other side so it just lines up with the screw holes.


----------



## alancsalt

Willhemens Reservoir Mod Posts in this thread:
http://www.overclock.net/8155906-post1705.html

http://www.overclock.net/8158563-post1717.html

And then he did a guide:

(Guide) H50 Replace Tubes and Res Mod.

And as for reduced temps:

http://www.overclock.net/8175234-post4.html


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser* 
Great thread!









Would you know if a H50 could fit inside an In-Win Fanqua case?

I know it has 120mm fan slots, but can it fit in there with the 220mm fan installed as well?









Thanks!

Certainly will


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Certainly will




























Jeez u molesterd that case lol but it would get some nice airflow from the front which is what is most important







good job

p.s i love this thread!! Some bloody good info on here . I rep youse all =D


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
Jeez u molesterd that case lol but it would get some nice airflow from the front which is what is most important







good job

p.s i love this thread!! Some bloody good info on here . I rep youse all =D

I need to work on the paint sometime but it is winter here so will have to wait many months before I can do that. As far as the front mounting the way the case was it just had breakaway slot holders that even after you broke them out to use the slot had places to screw them back into place so I modified it to hold my H50 and still have space for all of my other components


----------



## seesee

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Certainly will





























just curious if i puck the front plates off where you mount your H70, is it possible for me to mount them back in?


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


I need to work on the paint sometime but it is winter here so will have to wait many months before I can do that. As far as the front mounting the way the case was it just had breakaway slot holders that even after you broke them out to use the slot had places to screw them back into place so I modified it to hold my H50 and still have space for all of my other components










Would you HAVE to cut front? I wouldn't risk the warranty


----------



## mistax

Looks like ill be jumping in on this once my 970 comes. from the looks of it is the h50 a better buy than the h70 if you take price and performance into consideration.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seesee*


just curious if i puck the front plates off where you mount your H70, is it possible for me to mount them back in?


If you have the same case yes. The plates break away but off to both sides where you can't see in the pictures there is places to put screws to put them back into place. Most cases do not have this option and once you break away the metal there is no putting it back.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*


Would you HAVE to cut front? I wouldn't risk the warranty










Never really heard about a case warranty being void for removing or cutting the break away metal pieces to begin with it is pretty much a given that you have to remove those to begin with at least if you want to have a BD/DVD/CD drive and any other components you might have once they are removed I don't think they care what you do with them at that point.

The only reason I even cut one piece of metal is so I could still fit my card reader in place.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


If you have the same case yes. The plates break away but off to both sides where you can't see in the pictures there is places to put screws to put them back into place. Most cases do not have this option and once you break away the metal there is no putting it back.

Never really heard about a case warranty being void for removing or cutting the break away metal pieces to begin with it is pretty much a given that you have to remove those to begin with at least if you want to have a BD/DVD/CD drive and any other components you might have once they are removed I don't think they care what you do with them at that point.

The only reason I even cut one piece of metal is so I could still fit my card reader in place.


Haha, you're right!







Foolish of me... Must've not been thinking straight









Well, then my mate's gonna be happy, 'cause he saves alot of money now









- one more thing: Does the case come with dust filters? For the front intake and the huge side fan, I mean


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*


Haha, you're right!







Foolish of me... Must've not been thinking straight









Well, then my mate's gonna be happy, 'cause he saves alot of money now









- one more thing: Does the case come with dust filters? For the front intake and the huge side fan, I mean










The front sort of has dust filters basically screens like you would have for your windows so not very effective except vs large particles and hair. The side has none except of course the mesh it is already made of. I use filters from http://www.demcifilter.com/ they don't keep out 100% of the dust but are a million times better than nothing at all. You can buy a 140mm filter for the 120mm front fans I would suggest it because it makes it easier and better to use a 140mm on the 120mm spot because of how you have to stick the front ones into place be sure to check non-ferrous(magnetic) for the front fan(s). I have a filter on the 220mm side fan too they custom make any filter that you want you just have to give them the dimensions I told them I needed the actual filter to be 220mm x 220m square and it turned out perfect.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


The front sort of has dust filters basically screens like you would have for your windows so not very effective except vs large particles and hair. The side has none except of course the mesh it is already made of. I use filters from http://www.demcifilter.com/ they don't keep out 100% of the dust but are a million times better than nothing at all. You can buy a 140mm filter for the 120mm front fans I would suggest it because it makes it easier and better to use a 140mm on the 120mm spot because of how you have to stick the front ones into place be sure to check non-ferrous(magnetic) for the front fan(s). I have a filter on the 220mm side fan too they custom make any filter that you want you just have to give them the dimensions I told them I needed the actual filter to be 220mm x 220m square and it turned out perfect.


Problem is, I live in Denmark :S And so far, I've only managed to find 120mm filters... Is there any way, you could make a filter yourself?


----------



## SilverSS/SC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dockiks*


Your temps are really high, esp since your ambient temp is low. There must be something wrong. My temps are as follows (using CPUID HWMonitor Pro):

Ambient: 30-32 C
Idle: 34-36 C
Load (LinX): 46-48 C

I have no shrouds, and have had the same temps since 1st mount 3months ago. I have good airflow though: 2x140mm Slipstream 1200RPM (front intake) 1x200mm Coolermaster Megaflow 700RPM (side panel intake), 1x180mm Thermaltake stock case fan 800RPM (top exhaust), 2x120mm GT-15's push/pull at max RPM with H70 (rear exhaust) and 1x140mm power supply fan in exhaust at bottom of case.

I don't think the tubes can be an issue since they are relatively rigid and thus can't be too bent or kinked like plastic hoses can. Your fans are good (Ceadderman swears by them often enough), and though you have 2 hot graphic cards (one of which does not vent air out the back), your case is big, spacious and has good options for great airflow and ventilation. If you have enough fans providing good airflow in the proper direction through your case, I'd look into checking the tightness of your screws which may be loose. If they're not, you might wanna try remounting the H70: the original TIM might have been smeared all over during installation. You'll have to put new TIM. And as has been mentioned, you need to make sure that your pump is running 100%. I'd do these before trying shrouds; lots of users don't have them, and those that do, just use them to further improve temps.


Ok....I don't think it is the hoses either, I have 5 Yate Loon High Speed fans (2 on the H70 in push/pull, and three as exhaust fans on the top of my case. I am using the stock fan currently for intake from the bottom, but have Yate Loon fans ordered to replace those with. Will also be adding an Antec 1200 Front intake hdd cage I have lying around for more intake air.

In the bios of my motherboard, I can only set the pump to 90%, anyone know a way around this? Or is this normal? It says "Duty percentage" and the highest I can go is 90%. The screws on the H70 are tight. I am going to try and remount it this weekend. I am using Noctua TIM currently. Thinking of ordering some Gelid GC Extreme to try out. I may Lap the Cpu and H70 as well, here in the near future.


----------



## AK-47

Having a small issue
I finally picked up a fan splitter http://www.microcenter.com/single_pr...uct_id=0290396 today and I'm finally ready to put the UK3K's into my system and move the stock H70 fans somewhere else. side or bottom not sure yet
But I can't find 92 mm/3.75 inch 6-32 machine screws at my local hardware shop home cheapo
which is what I need to go through the UK3K and 2 25mm shrouds.
Any ideas? or somewhere else i can try?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SilverSS/SC*


Ok....I don't think it is the hoses either, I have 5 Yate Loon High Speed fans (2 on the H70 in push/pull, and three as exhaust fans on the top of my case. I am using the stock fan currently for intake from the bottom, but have Yate Loon fans ordered to replace those with. Will also be adding an Antec 1200 Front intake hdd cage I have lying around for more intake air.

In the bios of my motherboard, I can only set the pump to 90%, anyone know a way around this? Or is this normal? It says "Duty percentage" and the highest I can go is 90%. The screws on the H70 are tight. I am going to try and remount it this weekend. I am using Noctua TIM currently. Thinking of ordering some Gelid GC Extreme to try out. I may Lap the Cpu and H70 as well, here in the near future.


Either use another fan header that does give 100% of 12 volts (Not PWM of 7v), or get adapter plug to plug a fan straight into a 12v line from the PSU.....


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*


Problem is, I live in Denmark :S And so far, I've only managed to find 120mm filters... Is there any way, you could make a filter yourself?










The link I gave is actually a company in South Africa when I live in the USA so pretty sure it shouldn't be any bigger of a problem to get the filters in Denmark compared to here for me.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
The link I gave is actually a company in South Africa when I live in the USA so pretty sure it shouldn't be any bigger of a problem to get the filters in Denmark compared to here for me.

Problem is that if I buy something from anywhere outside Denmark, I'll have to pay a HUGE toll fee. I'm not willing to do that for dust filters


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser* 
Problem is that if I buy something from anywhere outside Denmark, I'll have to pay a HUGE toll fee. I'm not willing to do that for dust filters









Do you have access to Automotive high performance filters? Amsoil makes a good Dry filter that has amazing air flow and good particle filtering. get one of them and cut it to the shape you need. you will need to do some custom bracketing most likely thought still....


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
Do you have access to Automotive high performance filters? Amsoil makes a good Dry filter that has amazing air flow and good particle filtering. get one of them and cut it to the shape you need. you will need to do some custom bracketing most likely thought still....

I don't really have access to that :S

But I was thinking, couldn't some hardware store have filters? Like 30x30cm or 60x60cm squares, I could just cut out the way I wanted?

Or is there any particular density the filters must have?


----------



## Magus2727

The problem with that is you will want the thickest filter you can get, home filters (i am guessing thats what your thinking of) do not have good air flow at that thickness... since they have a huge 120V/240V AC fan behind them...

any auto parts store should have a "performance" filter you can get...


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
The problem with that is you will want the thickest filter you can get, home filters (i am guessing thats what your thinking of) do not have good air flow at that thickness... since they have a huge 120V/240V AC fan behind them...

any auto parts store should have a "performance" filter you can get...

I would look into that then







Or just live without










Thanks for all the (fish) help


----------



## Magus2727

42......

No problem.... only thing is if you do go that way... make sure you don't get a oil'd filter... those are no good.... you may get a oil film on items.

Good Luck!


----------



## Xristo

get a pod filter


----------



## Xristo

any guys out there with an i7 @ 4.2 i wanna know your temps please .


----------



## AK-47

Beast mode!!!!


----------



## Magus2727

You need another shroud on the right.... That intake or exhausting out of the case?


----------



## dockiks

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alancsalt* 
Either use another fan header that does give 100% of 12 volts (Not PWM of 7v), or get adapter plug to plug a fan straight into a 12v line from the PSU.....

@SilverSS/SC: THIS

The non-max performance of the pump may be responsible for your high temps. Suggest you try this first before remounting the block.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AK-47* 








Beast mode!!!!

Nicce i need to get those 32mm 3k fans!!! Do want


----------



## Bobehud

I am on a project.I am going to build a new system with only parts bought,traded or dealed thru local Craigslist..lol..yeah i know but i am always up for something different.I picked up a Rosewell 1000w Mod PS today NIB for 75 bucks a Xclio case new no box 50 bucks and the only thing new is my H70 and the older stuff in my sig rig...going to move the Mobo and cpu over..MUCH bigger case than the Antec 900 i have now.
Has anyone ever put like a 240 Rad with 1/4 barbs and a pair of fans with the H70..?This case has a perfect spot built in across the top.Figured id mod the H70 as well with a a bigger rad.


----------



## Magus2727

If the H70 is the same over all pump as the H50, the H50 struggles with the extra back pressure the 240 radiator has... IIRC


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser* 
Problem is, I live in Denmark :S And so far, I've only managed to find 120mm filters... Is there any way, you could make a filter yourself?









Pantyhose.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Pantyhose.

Now thats a good idea


----------



## 1d10t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
Pantyhose.

seriously ?








whow...i spent $40 ++ just for air and dust filter


----------



## WigglesTheHoly

I'm going to use the same mesh you use when repairing a window screen.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WigglesTheHoly* 
I'm going to use the same mesh you use when repairing a window screen.

That's like trying to use a piece of paper for a bullet proof vest sure it might fit in the vest in place of the Kevlar but will it stop a bullet? Even though the repair mesh you would use to repair a screen with is tighter weaved than the screen itself it still isn't fine enough to really keep much out. It is what my case came with in the front vented slots it keeps out the big stuff hair, dust bunnies and the like but when it comes to the fine dust particles and pet dander and even your own dander forget it. It is basically like not having a filter at all in the end.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
If the H70 is the same over all pump as the H50, the H50 struggles with the extra back pressure the 240 radiator has... IIRC

I believe I remember reading how the H70's pump had been beefed up a little due to the negative feedback pro WC's were leaving about the H50's pump. Correct me if you know better, anyone, but that's what I remember.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Pantyhose.


What... the...?

And that would cover the Fanqua's huge side fan?


----------



## AK-47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


Nicce i need to get those 32mm 3k fans!!! Do want


38 mm*

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


You need another shroud on the right.... That intake or exhausting out of the case?


intake


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*


What... the...?

And that would cover the Fanqua's huge side fan?










Sure, if your donor is a big ol gurl or they're stretchy....have done this before for 120mm's when I was low on cash. Works fine just hard to add/remove if you don't think up an effective mounting method.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimbrady*


Sure, if your donor is a big ol gurl or they're stretchy....have done this before for 120mm's when I was low on cash. Works fine just hard to add/remove if you don't think up an effective mounting method.


You don't want to use used ones to begin with because of any built up grease will make them less effective and hard to clean. Pantyhose are stretchy to begin with so not like you would have to buy a big one even for a 220mm fan. Just don't buy fishnet ones and you should be good.


----------



## Xristo

Anybody here use cinebench ? tried it out last night , highest it got was 80c during the render test .


----------



## DJ4g63t

So I finished up lapping my H50 and cpu today and I'm a lil disappointed. Temps didn't change much at all. I'm trying to get an IBT test to run now at the same gflops as my unlapped test but they seem to be a bit more now and obviously driving temps up at the same time. I'll post my results once I can get a test with the same gflops as before just so I can accurately judge the difference. Heres some pics


















These were both fairly flat to begin with so I guess I shouldn't have expect that much from lapping.

This is my unlapped IBT test with ambient temps at 23C and OCZ Freeze










I've reseated 3 times since I've lapped and used shin etsu and ocz freeze and the temps were all within 1C of each other. I also ground down the plastic pieces on the bracket that the bolts go into in an attempt to get a lil more pressure down on the cpu. Considering my oc and somewhat warm ambient temps my max IBT load temps arent that bad but after reading about guys seeing 8-10C drops in temps from lapping I decided to give it a go. My max P95 load temps barely broke 60C unlapped so I wasn't sure how much better I was going to get from lapping. All well it kept me busy for quite a few hours anyways.


----------



## Xristo

I lapped my cpu and h50 block and it made a bit of a difference as in 1-5 degrees if your lucky but dont expect miracles . Your temps seem okay to me , i get almost the same temps as u with my i7 @ 4.2Ghz..

A mate of mine had an e8500 using some ****ty aircooler , hes running 4.1ghz at 60c-65c load and that cooler has nothing on the h50 . So coming to think of it maybe you have done something wrong ? C2D's dont run that hot compared to say an i7 or similar.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
I lapped my cpu and h50 block and it made a bit of a difference as in 1-5 degrees if your lucky but dont expect miracles . Your temps seem okay to me , i get almost the same temps as u with my i7 @ 4.2Ghz..

A mate of mine had an e8500 using some ****ty aircooler , hes running 4.1ghz at 60c-65c load and that cooler has nothing on the h50 . So coming to think of it maybe you have done something wrong ? C2D's dont run that hot compared to say an i7 or similar.

My temps seem to be on par if not a lil better than most oc'd E8500's I've seen. Are your buddies load temps using IBT? Not many other stress test heat up a cpu like IBT. My max P95 load temps (unlapped) are only 59C on an 8 hour blend test with 22C ambient temps. I play black ops for hours and my max load temps are only 54C so I'm not too worried about my temps.


----------



## alancsalt

Cinebench only pushed mine to 71C max.

E8500 temps escalate after 4.1. The Prime temps aren't high.

DJ4g63t, that lapping job, love the photes! They look pro.

Xristo, I haven't got the same cpu, but that sounds warm. I would have thought 32nm would run cooler.


----------



## kingofyo1

Quick question guys, my H50 on the 1090t with final fantasy 14 and a Chrome browser up was making me grab 50c(ish) temps. I had redone the TIM mat and seating yesterday, but it doesn't seem to have helped. The shroud bolts i have didn't come with the correct threading to mount, so I have to make due with no shrouds at the moment. My fan/rad setup is as follows: air flow ----> back of case|corsair fan|radiator|case fan ---->inner case. I'm wondering if the case fan is competing with the corsair for flow and if I take it out, if it may help temps? so do yall think its worth the time to give it a try, or is there something else messing with the system?

Any help would be appreciated, thanks

P.S. I had been previously OC'd to 4.2 ghz but with these temps I've dropped it down to around 3.8 and also dropped voltages to try to compensate the temps. Right now, after giving the computer a 15 minute cooldown, temps are sitting at 37c with just chrome running. I have not since first installing the H50 been able to successfully run a prime because of temp readings skyrocketing to 60's.


----------



## [email protected]

wow now i'm tempted to lap mine lol. I got a question.. i accidently screwed into my rad fins and some are dented. Would this impact the way the H50 behaves? I kinda got worried i screwed up my H50 by doing that. My screws went to far on the side. So far it works ok. I need to go custom water someday soon but it's just too expensive right now. I just want something perfect for my new i5/i7 set up next week.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kingofyo1* 
Quick question guys, my H50 on the 1090t with final fantasy 14 and a Chrome browser up was making me grab 50c(ish) temps. I had redone the TIM mat and seating yesterday, but it doesn't seem to have helped. The shroud bolts i have didn't come with the correct threading to mount, so I have to make due with no shrouds at the moment. My fan/rad setup is as follows: air flow ----> back of case|corsair fan|radiator|case fan ---->inner case. I'm wondering if the case fan is competing with the corsair for flow and if I take it out, if it may help temps? so do yall think its worth the time to give it a try, or is there something else messing with the system?

Any help would be appreciated, thanks

Make sure you press the cpu down when screwing it in so it goes deep contact with the cpu. As for airflow i believe it's important to have HOT air out of the case. Sounds like a bad case of airflow you got in your case. Need more details what you done so far though.. got a pic of inside your set up?


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]* 
Make sure you press the cpu down when screwing it in so it goes deep contact with the cpu. As for airflow i believe it's important to have HOT air out of the case. Sounds like a bad case of airflow you got in your case. Need more details what you done so far though.. got a pic of inside your set up?

does a bear crap in the woods? lol yeah, i'll grab some recent pics for ya.. one minute. i'll edit this with pic links when done

edit: here ya go


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]* 
wow now i'm tempted to lap mine lol. I got a question.. i accidently screwed into my rad fins and some are dented. Would this impact the way the H50 behaves? I kinda got worried i screwed up my H50 by doing that. My screws went to far on the side. So far it works ok. I need to go custom water someday soon but it's just too expensive right now. I just want something perfect for my new i5/i7 set up next week.

Long as it doesn't leak is all, otherwise, should not make a significant difference. (Run yr favourite stress test. Are the temps different?)


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alancsalt* 

E8500 temps escalate after 4.1. The Prime temps aren't high.

DJ4g63t, that lapping job, love the photes! They look pro.

Thanks

Your correct about E8500 temps over 4.1GHz. I was stable at 4GHz with stock vcore (1.25v) and my temps were ridiculously lower than my current 4.33GHz. I'm talking a good 8-10C lower on max IBT load temps and my max P95 blend temps were in the high 40's at 4GHz

This is a 13 hour blend test on my E0 E8500 at 4GHz with stock vcore










These temps are all using the H50 of course


----------



## alancsalt

You've got one of the best ever Socket 775 boards. I've got an E8500 / X48-DQ6 at 4.427GHz http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1506417 with a True 120 and a couple of Noctuas.










I had to raise vcore since then, but may not have needed it. Have a random 3B Bluescreen on booting (Sometimes does, sometimes doesn't, perfectly stable if you get in.) and only just discovered it is probably a driver glitch.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alancsalt* 
You've got one of the best ever Socket 775 boards. I've got an E8500 / X48-DQ6 at 4.427GHz http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1506417 with a True 120 and a couple of Noctuas.

I had to raise vcore since then, but may not have needed it. Have a random 3B Bluescreen on booting (Sometimes does, sometimes doesn't, perfectly stable if you get in.) and only just discovered it is probably a driver glitch.

Wow those temps are very hot for a P95 test. Have you tried using Coretemp? I noticed that most times HWMonitor reads 2-3C lower than Coretemp on my machine.


----------



## alancsalt

I live in the sub-tropics - high ambients. I'm happy if it's under 80C on Prime. Never get anywhere near it any other time. With the X48 board the temp apps all read within a degree of each other, but on my X58A-UD3R HWMonitor is like 4 or 5 degrees lower than Coretemp or Realtemp.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alancsalt* 
Cinebench only pushed mine to 71C max.

E8500 temps escalate after 4.1. The Prime temps aren't high.

DJ4g63t, that lapping job, love the photes! They look pro.

Xristo, I haven't got the same cpu, but that sounds warm. I would have thought 32nm would run cooler.

According to cpu-z its 45nm , its been pretty warm here in sydney too the ambients are **** unless i use my aircon lol i get nice temps..it seems as though i have the hottest room in the house also which the sun always rises infront of my window in the morning n heats up during the day =( bring on winter.


----------



## alancsalt

Sydney? I'm up near the Tweed. Winter? We've got a long wait.


----------



## SilverSS/SC

It's winter where I'm at.....my ambient temp is 18.3*C.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alancsalt* 
Sydney? I'm up near the Tweed. Winter? We've got a long wait.

Yeah summer has just begun haha , its okay my computer seems to be able to deal with whatever i throw at it in this heat anyway . Loves the aircon , but who dusnt =p


----------



## kingofyo1

hey guys, new OC with h50









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1506696

trying to see what the most i can get from a suicide without going over 1.5v core


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kingofyo1* 
does a bear crap in the woods? lol yeah, i'll grab some recent pics for ya.. one minute. i'll edit this with pic links when done

edit: here ya go



















Your cable management is HORRIBLE. You could have unscrewed the fan and turn it a bit so you can have the cables closer to the header to plug in lol. Try cable management, you'd be surprise how much cooler it gets


----------



## seesee

just curious the H70 surface area is quite big...

when I am reapplying a thermal paste.. do I have to apply on the entire H70 surface or just put a drop on the i7 chip and let pressure spread itself.


----------



## Plex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seesee*


just curious the H70 surface area is quite big...

when I am reapplying a thermal paste.. do I have to apply on the entire H70 surface or just put a drop on the i7 chip and let pressure spread itself.


I found the line and light smear method to be most effective







.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Plex*


I found the line and light smear method to be most effective







.


Same put a tiny pea , smudge it in a circle over the head spreader nice n even and do a very thing layer it shuld still be semi transparent .. than do a very thin line across the heat spreader and screw your pump on each screw a few turns at a time while pulling on the pump so its level with the bracket and to be made sure its slotted in to the grooves.. dont just go full horse on 1 screw it will cause it to be uneven . Thermal paste can be a real ***** to get right sometimes =( but ull figure it out budz just like i did.


----------



## seesee

any good video illustration?


----------



## DJ4g63t

The key with the H50 is to hold the pump as still as you can once you have it down on the cpu by hand with decent pressure while tightening each bolt down gradually in an X pattern to ensure even pressure. I've had good luck with the rice sized dot right in the middle of the cpu but I've noticed with the H50 using the correct amount of tim is key.


----------



## YoursTruly

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *seesee*   any good video illustration?  
   
 You Tube


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


does a bear crap in the woods? lol yeah, i'll grab some recent pics for ya.. one minute. i'll edit this with pic links when done

edit: here ya go


Cable management wasn't that bad could use a little work but compared to what I have seen over the years you did a great job. If you have any questions or just want to know what to do or how to do something feel free to ask.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


Your cable management is HORRIBLE. You could have unscrewed the fan and turn it a bit so you can have the cables closer to the header to plug in lol. Try cable management, you'd be surprise how much cooler it gets

















Giving someone just a negative on their work is not the way to "teach". Not everyone here has been working with computers for 30+ years or even 1 year so not like you can expect perfection from anyone. You assumed they where done when they made no mention of if they where or not so again no reason to just judge and give negatives. Everyone should be here to assist any way they can without making someone else feel bad about their work or at least it is what I try to do.


----------



## Infinitegrim

Dont laugh at me...

Here is some advice, dont cool your radiator below 0C.

We purchased ice cream from somewhere and got dry ice to take it home with us, I then put the remaining dry ice on my radiator to try to hit 5Ghz. I'm not sure what the problem was but I couldnt get past 4.8. But after about 10 minutes I hurt clicking coming from the block. Apparently the coolent started to freeze!

I turned it off immediatly and it works fine, but I would suggest you wont try that!


----------



## [email protected]

Has anyone tried mounting the H50 in a Antec 1200 on top rear exhaust fan? I managed to do it but it's time consuming and a HEADACHE! Cuz the holes won't line up on your exhaust fan holes with the regular fan attached to it. It's the gap of the rad bumping to measure it right. Worst of all the width of the rad blocks the side panel.

I managed to get it to screw it but i'm only using 1 screw on my side panel cuz the top is a SMALL SMALL gap due to rad. I'm concerned if i get H70 it won't fit once i install my new i7 build but i am having second thoughts of getting a new case, i'd hate the idea of doing that. I also have seen pictures of the H50 or H70 mounted on top inside the ANTEC 1200 somewhere and i have NO clue how in the world you can do that?

Is there something in the case we can put on top inside like that or does that require modding? Ugh.. I'm almost tempted to try the Antec Dark Fleet or HAF cases.. undecided. I just want airflow to regulate right. I used to have it as intake using a fan bracket it works but i didn't like the idea of blocking my airflow.


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Cable management wasn't that bad could use a little work but compared to what I have seen over the years you did a great job. If you have any questions or just want to know what to do or how to do something feel free to ask.









Giving someone just a negative on their work is not the way to "teach". Not everyone here has been working with computers for 30+ years or even 1 year so not like you can expect perfection from anyone. You assumed they where done when they made no mention of if they where or not so again no reason to just judge and give negatives. Everyone should be here to assist any way they can without making someone else feel bad about their work or at least it is what I try to do.


car, thanks for taking the time to at least look at the pics. As for taking the time to do my cable management, I've got a sleeving kit here that I'll be trying to install with a friend. That was definitely a temp fix just to use the comp, not to look pretty. I got the frozencpu white sleeve kit, and managed to do one of the molex sets so far, but the other pins like the ones on the pcie and the atx connector refuse to come out! I'm wondering what i'm doing wrong? tried the staple trick, tried using paper clips, tried the tools that came with the kit, but no go.. is it juts my luck?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*   car, thanks for taking the time to at least look at the pics. As for taking the time to do my cable management, I've got a sleeving kit here that I'll be trying to install with a friend. That was definitely a temp fix just to use the comp, not to look pretty. I got the frozencpu white sleeve kit, and managed to do one of the molex sets so far, but the other pins like the ones on the pcie and the atx connector refuse to come out! I'm wondering what i'm doing wrong? tried the staple trick, tried using paper clips, tried the tools that came with the kit, but no go.. is it juts my luck?  
I have an awl type tool that I use to remove my pins that I have used for many years the flattened paper clip looks like a good idea.

  
 You Tube  



 
Also know that not all of the connectors are the same some of them the clips that hold them in place are on top and bottom not on the sides it just depends on the manufacturer of the power supply.


----------



## [email protected]

I'd be nervous doing the atx connector. Cuz if you bent a pin you're screwed. I sleeved the others but i never had sleeved these before. I'd rather have someone else do it for me but it costs money and it sucks. I'll eventually need to learn to the rest on a psu unit. There are some wires that look fully lined with two seperate molexs can be confusing how to route it lol. Good Luck!


----------



## KoukiFC3S

Stock i7 950 + H50 with gentle typhoon + shroud = 62C prime 95.

Too high?


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]* 
Has anyone tried mounting the H50 in a Antec 1200 on top rear exhaust fan? I managed to do it but it's time consuming and a HEADACHE! Cuz the holes won't line up on your exhaust fan holes with the regular fan attached to it. It's the gap of the rad bumping to measure it right. Worst of all the width of the rad blocks the side panel.

I managed to get it to screw it but i'm only using 1 screw on my side panel cuz the top is a SMALL SMALL gap due to rad. I'm concerned if i get H70 it won't fit once i install my new i7 build but i am having second thoughts of getting a new case, i'd hate the idea of doing that. I also have seen pictures of the H50 or H70 mounted on top inside the ANTEC 1200 somewhere and i have NO clue how in the world you can do that?

Is there something in the case we can put on top inside like that or does that require modding? Ugh.. I'm almost tempted to try the Antec Dark Fleet or HAF cases.. undecided. I just want airflow to regulate right. I used to have it as intake using a fan bracket it works but i didn't like the idea of blocking my airflow.

I dont get it dude














it fits perfectly for me... Did u try mounting it with the hoses at the bottom like i said ? If u did that , the screw holes should line up ? I even take the whole thing in and out with the fan underneath still in...The rad just fits snug up there , it does miss the top exhaust fan by a hair but it fits.. i dunno what this problem is your encountering . Can u chuck up some pics of the problem


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KoukiFC3S* 
Stock i7 950 + H50 with gentle typhoon + shroud = 62C prime 95.

Too high?

No ? how do u consider that high if the tj max is 100c , It could be a little lower maxing out in the high 50's under stock speeds but if its running stable then i dont see a concern unless u plan on overclocking one day then ur temps are gonna go through the roof if your hitting 60 on stock.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]* 
Has anyone tried mounting the H50 in a Antec 1200 on top rear exhaust fan? I managed to do it but it's time consuming and a HEADACHE! Cuz the holes won't line up on your exhaust fan holes with the regular fan attached to it. It's the gap of the rad bumping to measure it right. Worst of all the width of the rad blocks the side panel.

I managed to get it to screw it but i'm only using 1 screw on my side panel cuz the top is a SMALL SMALL gap due to rad. I'm concerned if i get H70 it won't fit once i install my new i7 build but i am having second thoughts of getting a new case, i'd hate the idea of doing that. I also have seen pictures of the H50 or H70 mounted on top inside the ANTEC 1200 somewhere and i have NO clue how in the world you can do that?

Is there something in the case we can put on top inside like that or does that require modding? Ugh.. I'm almost tempted to try the Antec Dark Fleet or HAF cases.. undecided. I just want airflow to regulate right. I used to have it as intake using a fan bracket it works but i didn't like the idea of blocking my airflow.


----------



## kirb112

Hello all, I am new to this forum. I just got my new H70 and am waiting on the rest of my parts to build my new i7 rig. I want to use some of my time before everything else comes to lap the H70. I have scoured the web and even this forum, but I have not been able to find any PROCEDURES for lapping the H70. I understand how to lap, but I do not know what is the best technique for this system. Lapping waterblocks is easy because there are no hoses attached to the block. I am worried about the hoses not allowing my to keep the block perfectly level during the lapping process. I thought I saw on a different forum that one guy took the copper plate off his H50. I did not want to do this until I found detailed instructions because I don't know if doing this will break the water seal.

Please, if you have done this, or know how to, share the knowledge!

Thank you!


----------



## Xristo

I just did it with some fine grit by hand , i didnt get it mirror finish though nor do u need too . It just gives it a nice flat smooth surface to make it flat with your cpu . Its not a mirror for ur cpu to look into when it gets lonely in there..The thermal paste will smear all over ur nice mirrored surface anyway thats just for looks i cant see you getting any better results just because ur block looks like a mirror :s alot of people are spending alot of time making there surface's like a mirror its completely pointless unless someone can prove otherwise ? i wouldnt go taking off the copper plate that just sounds stupid for results ull hardly notice ..what if u fk something up ?


----------



## Xristo

Okayyyy so all these compund videos got me thinking if i shuld redo my TIM , it got the better of me and i did and currently iv dropped it a few degrees it ideling on 34/33/32/31 @ 4.2Ghz =) yet to check prime and cinebench and hopefully it drops after the run in period too.

I used the line method this time , last time i smeared abit over the top in a circle over the HS and did the line method and it did have good temps but after i took it off it looked horrible . Mounting the h50 into the bracket without ruining the paste is a hard job it always smudges and ull never know until u turn ur computer back on and see ur at tjmax!!


----------



## YoursTruly

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
Mounting the h50 into the bracket without ruining the paste is a hard job it always smudges and ull never know until u turn ur computer back on and see ur at tjmax!!


Yeah, I haven't even had a chance to turn my new rig on yet *sigh* but I have a bad feeling that I smudged the heck out of the pre-applied thermal compound. Gah! Come on NCIX!!! don't let the snow slow my delivery! I want my RAM! *pout*

hmm, So, if I do need to reapply the grease, what brand is most recommended? I've seen great reviews of Arctic Silver 5, but then I just saw this video. Maybe he didn't do a good job with the arctic silver 5? I don't know. hmmm


You Tube





After that comes I'll be doing all the installing of windows 7 and drivers and fun of a brand spanking new machine. And then its onward to figuring out what monitor I want. I want something between 19" and 22", 1080, LCD LED 5ms or better... Why am I saying all this in the hydro thread? because I just got home from work and I hate winter... thats why. Now pass me the rum and eggnog!


----------



## esproductions

Apparently some people are having a hard time mounting the H50 radiator on the rear exhaust of the NZXT Phantom... it CAN be done, although maybe it's a fit/finish inconsistency between different Phantoms.


----------



## [email protected]

Now i am wondering if the H70 will fit the top of the rear exhaust considering it's thick rad?







Hmm hope my new build installation will be ok. I totally don't wanna scratch or dent my rad fins lol.


----------



## kingofyo1

ok so I just got done with 9 hours of sleeving cables and switching the push pull config of the H50 to pull air out of the case, as I think I had way too much stale air laying dormant in there... surprisingly though, I'm not seeing too much difference in temps. Is it just my imagination? How do you guys have yours set up?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


ok so I just got done with 9 hours of sleeving cables and switching the push pull config of the H50 to pull air out of the case, as I think I had way too much stale air laying dormant in there... surprisingly though, I'm not seeing too much difference in temps. Is it just my imagination? How do you guys have yours set up?


What's your current temps at max load running prime95 or other similar program? Also need to know your ambient temps. How are your case fans setup? Front intake, side intake, bottom intake, back/top exhaust?

I have mine setup as front intake for my H50 with Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-15 fans with two shrouds one on both sides of the radiator and have silicone gaskets in between the fans, shrouds and radiator.Rest of the setup is another fan in front as intake also, side 220mm intake fan; and top and rear fans exhaust. My temps under full load are low to mid 40's with an ambient of 22C.


----------



## kingofyo1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


What's your current temps at max load running prime95 or other similar program? Also need to know your ambient temps. How are your case fans setup? Front intake, side intake, bottom intake, back/top exhaust?

I have mine setup as front intake for my H50 with Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-15 fans with two shrouds one on both sides of the radiator and have silicone gaskets in between the fans, shrouds and radiator.Rest of the setup is another fan in front as intake also, side 220mm intake fan; and top and rear fans exhaust. My temps under full load are low to mid 40's with an ambient of 22C.


ok so here's my fan setup:

2 120 azzas at front as intake, 2 230s on side as intake, 2 230s on top as exhaust, and the H50 setup push/pull now exhaust: corsair is pushing, azza is pulling.

Current temp is 30c (gpu folding and basic Internet browsing at the moment), max load prime 95 is around 55c, ambient is around 22c


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingofyo1*


ok so here's my fan setup:

2 120 azzas at front as intake, 2 230s on side as intake, 2 230s on top as exhaust, and the H50 setup push/pull now exhaust: corsair is pushing, azza is pulling.

Current temp is 30c (gpu folding and basic Internet browsing at the moment), max load prime 95 is around 55c, ambient is around 22c


I had about the same results when I was first working with my H50 with stock fan and a fan that came with my case. I don't know what fans Azza uses in their cases one thing to try is first see how they compare to the stock corsair fan it is always best to have two matching fans than to have miss matched fans so try two of the azza case fans with the H50. If that is worse or the same the only other choice is to just buy better fans.

If you want quiet good performing fans then Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-15 fans. If you want high performance fans and don't care about noise then there are a few choices from Yate Loon high speed fans to Ulta Kaze 38mm 2000-3000rpm fans. If you have the space I always recommend a shroud at least on the push side if not both and always try to seal the whole setup as best you can so all the air is directed the same way and there is no pressure "leakage". You can seal it with simple black electrical tape or go with silicone gaskets like I did.


----------



## eloverton2

after 3 months of solid use my temps are starting to creep up. any suggestions? i think i need to take my fans off and blow some dust out.


----------



## Plex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eloverton2*


after 3 months of solid use my temps are starting to creep up. any suggestions? i think i need to take my fans off and blow some dust out.


Re-apply the TIM.


----------



## eloverton2

ive got as5 on it now and i used a grain of rice spread out into a haze. but judging from the amount of tim that originally came on the heatsink should i use more?


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eloverton2*


after 3 months of solid use my temps are starting to creep up. any suggestions? i think i need to take my fans off and blow some dust out.


You should blow out the radiator at least once a month... with the fins it build up fast if you dont have any other way to control dust in the case... If that does not do it re-apply the TIM... but that should be after you clean things up....


----------



## Wingzero

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eloverton2*


ive got as5 on it now and i used a grain of rice spread out into a haze. but judging from the amount of tim that originally came on the heatsink should i use more?


The h50 comes with a fair amount if not a bit too much Shin Etsu pre applied. It has done on both my h50's anyway.

So don't go crazy with the tim it only needs a little amount just a thin layer to cover the chip/block.


----------



## Plex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eloverton2*


ive got as5 on it now and i used a grain of rice spread out into a haze. but judging from the amount of tim that originally came on the heatsink should i use more?


After several applications, this is the method I found to work the best. (I call it the line-and-smear)

First of all, make sure to remove all the old stuff with rubbing alcohol and a microfiber cloth.

Instead of the grain of rice, try a very small line across the center. Then use a latex glove and very gently smear the TIM over until you have a thin layer covering the whole surface.

Then try your hardest to re-mount the block without getting it everywhere







.

For any other HSF, I generally use the grain of rice method and let the HS spread it out when I mount it. This is just the method I found to work the best with my H70.

Good luck and keep us updated








!


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eloverton2*


ive got as5 on it now and i used a grain of rice spread out into a haze. but judging from the amount of tim that originally came on the heatsink should i use more?


As they come, there is a bit too much tim......


----------



## willieboy90

For those interested:

I recently bought an H50 but i am planning to wait for CPU with the 1155 socket, also known as the sandy bridge types.

I asked corsair if they'd release new mount brackets for this type of socket.

*Question*

Quote:

Dear Miss/Sir,

Asuming you know that the Sandy Bridge PCU will be released beginning 2011 on the 1155 socket, i have a question regard the H50 CPU Cooler.

I bought this CPU cooler with a 1336 socket in mind. Is Corsair planning on releasing new mount bracket for the 1155 socket? It whould be shame to sell my wonderfull H50 if it won't be compatible with the new sockets.

Yours sincerely,
William Limberger
*Answer*

Quote:

As of this point we do not have any information, *but I'm sure we will.*
I'll take that as a yes.


----------



## AK-47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willieboy90* 
For those interested:

I recently bought an H50 but i am planning to wait for CPU with the 1155 socket, also known as the sandy bridge types.

I asked corsair if they'd release new mount brackets for this type of socket.

*Question*

*Answer*

I'll take that as a yes.

Doesn't seem like something that's hard to do....


----------



## iGuitarGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AK-47* 
Doesn't seem like something that's hard to do....

The 1156 socket size bracket will be identical to the 1155 I believe.


----------



## Xristo

Whats the point in making 1155 ?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
Whats the point in making 1155 ?

Just because the socket stays the same doesn't mean the number of CPU pings and power requirements and everything else doesn't change.


----------



## Plex

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
Whats the point in making 1155 ?

What?


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Just because the socket stays the same doesn't mean the number of CPU pings and power requirements and everything else doesn't change.

Thats true i guess but 1156 is only a year or 2 old ? i guess they got to improve every few years to make their money hey.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Plex* 
What?

I was saying whats the point of having 1155 socket if there is already 1156 . I dont know much about socket types just curious .


----------



## Xristo




----------



## wholeeo

So when mounting the radiator to my case one of the screws messed up the threadings in the radiator so now theres basically no tension on one of the screws. Any way to fix this? Re-threading the hole somehow? Also what sizes are these screws and where can I get ones which are a bit longer, I'd like to mount a filter to prevent dust from getting into the radiator/case and the screws as they are now just barely make it through the fan/rubber gourmet and into radiator. Thanks


----------



## alancsalt

They are 6-32. That is 6 gauge, 32 threads per inch, *not* 6/32"

Standoffs for old mobos use same thread, and can be used as extenders, but you have to drill the mount holes on the other side of the fan to fit round them.


----------



## briang191

Just ordered an H70 I hope I'm not disappointed. I7 950 oc to 4.1ghz 
42c idl 76c realtemp sensor test. Currently using hyper 212. I'm hoping for a 10c drop. Does anyone think I'm crazy?


----------



## willieboy90

No i don't!

H70 uses a phat ass rad. Combine it with two great fans ( check the fan results on mr martins thread! ) and you can make it happen.

Btw, eventhough socket 1155 won't be much different from the 1156 socket there will be made new motherboards for it. So i thought it was interesting to ask corsair about the compatibility of the h50/70 with the 1155 socket.


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wholeeo*


So when mounting the radiator to my case one of the screws messed up the threadings in the radiator so now theres basically no tension on one of the screws. Any way to fix this? Re-threading the hole somehow? Also what sizes are these screws and where can I get ones which are a bit longer, I'd like to mount a filter to prevent dust from getting into the radiator/case and the screws as they are now just barely make it through the fan/rubber gourmet and into radiator. Thanks


lowes has them. i used 2 1/8" machine screws with 6/32 threads for fan>shroud>rad. if you stripped the threads completely and a longer screw won't hold you may need to tap/die the hole with new threads and use a larger screw.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eloverton2*


lowes has them. i used 2 1/8" machine screws with 6/32 threads for fan>shroud>rad. if you stripped the threads completely and a longer screw won't hold you may need to tap/die the hole with new threads and use a larger screw.


If they are completely stripped there is enough space to put a thin nut behind where the hole is you can super glue it in place and it should work. If you can't find a thin enough nut you can grind one down to the right size.


----------



## seesee

How are Noctua P14 compare with GT as H70 fans?

a lot of my friends recommend P14 but it seems that on sites, GT works better..

care to comment?


----------



## willieboy90

I don't know much about the P14 fans of noctua, but the P12 perform crap. Couldn't find a nicer word for it.

Noctua P12 review by mrmartin

The Scythe GT's are the best fans when you look at the dB/CFM relation. I did not bought this fan because i can't stand scythe for making those GT's so damn ugly! However, they are on a complete higher level of performace compared to any other fan.

Scythe GT's review by mrmartin

If you are going for GT's get the ones with the highest RPM since they are practically unhearable!


----------



## Bobehud

I want to mount my H70 with a pair of Scythe UK 3K's and a shroud in the front of my case pulling air in and i know i have seen threads on modding the H70 for adding a reservoir but this thread here is so massive its hard to find anything..
Any help what be appreciated.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bobehud*


I want to mount my H70 with a pair of Scythe UK 3K's and a shroud in the front of my case pulling air in and i know i have seen threads on modding the H70 for adding a reservoir but this thread here is so massive its hard to find anything..
Any help what be appreciated.


Firstly, you'd probably find the 2000 better as the 3000 is pretty loud. I had one, and that was enough from a noise perspective. Blows quite a wind!

Secondly Willhemmens has a thread on modding the H50/H70 and adding a res.
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...s-res-mod.html


----------



## Bobehud

Already own the 3K mounted in a a push pull with a shroud from an old 120mm on the intake side-its set up drawing air into the case have (had) large top mounted fan draws warm air out great.
Yes your right i can here my system from the living room if i leave my man cave door open...small prop plane or hovercraft..BUT they move an unreal amount of air.Wouldn't use them again just WAY to loud but im getting used to it and hearing is overrated anyway.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bobehud*


Already own the 3K mounted in a a push pull with a shroud from an old 120mm on the intake side-its set up drawing air into the case have (had) large top mounted fan draws warm air out great.
Yes your right i can here my system from the living room if i leave my man cave door open...small prop plane or hovercraft..BUT they move an unreal amount of air.Wouldn't use them again just WAY to loud but im getting used to it and hearing is overrated anyway.


LOL What was that? Can't quite hear you?


----------



## seesee

anyone here owns noctua p12 and GT fans?

May I know what is the difference in temp?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seesee*


anyone here owns noctua p14 and GT fans?

May I know what is the difference in temp?


Isn't the p14 a 140mm fan? If it is I doubt many would be using it compared to a 120mm GT


----------



## willieboy90

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Isn't the p14 a 140mm fan? If it is I doubt many would be using it compared to a 120mm GT


I've looked it up. It's weird one, a 140 mm fan with 120 mm mounting holes.

Quote:



*140mm Impeller with Vortex Control Notches*
Thanks to its psycho-acoustically optimised nine blade impeller with staggered Vortex-Control Notches, the NF-P14 combines superb quietness with exceptional airflow and static pressure.



Quote:



*Round frame with 120mm mounting holes*
Using a round frame with the same hole-spacing as common 120mm fans and producing more airflow due to its larger diameter, the NF-P14 is a perfect upgrade for 120mm CPU or case fans. Thanks to the supplied adaptors, the NF-P14 also fits common 140mm mounting holes.



Source


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willieboy90* 
I've looked it up. It's weird one, a 140 mm fan with 120 mm mounting holes.

Source

Ah nice I looked at the specs I just wonder how well it really works on a 120mm mount it doesn't really seem like it would seal very well being a round designed fan on a square mount radiator. Don't know for sure though not going to buy them just to test them I am more than happy with my GT AP-15 fans.


----------



## willieboy90

I also assume it will not perform good on a 120 mm rad. Besides, I never understand the whole hype with those noctuas. Looking at the reviews of mrmartin I'd say those noctua's are pretty crap.

But mabye they perform well without rad as a normal casefan.


----------



## Xristo

They work well on my radiator ? and for alot of people . The noctua push alot of air , so yes they are an extremely good case fan .. But noctua is definatly not "pretty crap" they are an austrian product and the build quality is pretty solid . If your tying to compare it with 38mm 3k fans than obviously its going to fall behind . Tell mrmartain i said he is crap .


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
They work well on my radiator ? and for alot of people . The noctua push alot of air , so yes they are an extremely good case fan .. But noctua is definatly not "pretty crap" they are an austrian product and the build quality is pretty solid . If your tying to compare it with 38mm 3k fans than obviously its going to be crap.

I have Noctua P12s (?) on my E8500 True 120, and was under the impression they were pretty good, but Martin's fan comparison seems to show they are not as good as many of us were led to believe.

Cant find it ATM. Need more coffee. Can someone post a link to the fan comparison?


----------



## Xristo

Im using s12b's in push/pull with a shorud , very quiet and nice airflow compared to the cheaper fans . I think i paid $30 each not long ago and i bought 2 of them just for my radiator and it has no problems cooling my rad down to compensate with an i7 @ 4.2Ghz nearly 1.4v they do alright . I have been thinking about getting some 38mm fans in their and using the noctua's as case fans . I need to ring the pc shop find out if they stock any .


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
Im using s12b's in push/pull with a shorud , very quiet and nice airflow compared to the cheaper fans . I think i paid $30 each not long ago and i bought 2 of them just for my radiator and it has no problems cooling my rad down to compensate with an i7 @ 4.2Ghz nearly 1.4v they do alright . I have been thinking about getting some 38mm fans in their and using the noctua's as case fans . I need to ring the pc shop find out if they stock any .

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ng-thread.html

This guy knows what he's doing. Check him out.

(Aaaaah coooooffffffffeeeeeee! Coffee good.)


----------



## Xristo

thanks for reminding me haha coffee sounds good man







im gunna make myself one .

Im using Coretemp and HWmonitor to monitor my temps , Hw monitor reports higher idle temps but lower load temps by about 1-2c . With coretemp its the same but opposite , lower idles and higher loads by about 1-2c ...Which should i believe ???? I like coretemp bcos of the system tray , Hwmonitor needs to be open to constantly check temps.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
Im using Coretemp and HWmonitor to monitor my temps , Hw monitor reports higher idle temps but lower load temps by about 1-2c . With coretemp its the same but opposite , lower idles and higher loads by about 1-2c ...Which should i believe ???? I like coretemp bcos of the system tray , Hwmonitor needs to be open to constantly check temps.

I have the same issue with HWMonitor and Coretemp. Coretemp reports the highest load temps so I usually go with that just so I know I'm safe.


----------



## Xristo

copy pasta ..noctua s12b

This fan surprised me. I had been going on the assumption that for a good radiator fan, that you must have high blade count and large dense blades. It "Seemed" to make sense and under those assumptions I completely expected this fan to be only good in an open case type condition....I was WRONG!

NOISE LEVEL
It's good, actually a bit better than the yate medium at slower speeds and continues to do at least as good as the yate medium baseline fan all the way. At 8V it was better than most fans.

NOISE QUALITY
Very good, no odd resonance issues, just good smooth consistent sound at all levels.

OVERALL
It's a good fan, performs better in Noise/CFM than the yate loon medium and has a good smooth consistent sound at all RPM levels.

Still not quite sure how this one does better than the noctua P12 on my test rig...but it did..perhaps the P12s were bad samples.. Lesson learned, do NOT judge a fan by it's looks, there is no correlation between numbers of blades, density, thickness, bearing type, etc....looks mean nothing at all....


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
thanks for reminding me haha coffee sounds good man







im gunna make myself one .

Im using Coretemp and HWmonitor to monitor my temps , Hw monitor reports higher idle temps but lower load temps by about 1-2c . With coretemp its the same but opposite , lower idles and higher loads by about 1-2c ...Which should i believe ???? I like coretemp bcos of the system tray , Hwmonitor needs to be open to constantly check temps.

It's because the thing they are using to measure temps doesn't actually measure temps, but distance to failure. They put a nominal temp of 100 (for an i7 anyway) on failure, and guesstimate lower temps with a nominal gradient starting from the failure temp assumption and going back to idle.
So none of them are "accurate" in terms of actual temperature. From Intel's POV distance to failure is what's important, not actual temps. Hope I got that right.

UncleWeb or UncleWebb (?) seems to be the man for this. He wrote one of those progs.

Need more coffee now?


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t* 
I have the same issue with HWMonitor and Coretemp. Coretemp reports the highest load temps so I usually go with that just so I know I'm safe.

Thats a good point , thanks man.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alancsalt* 
It's because the thing they are using to measure temps doesn't actually measure temps, but distance to failure. They put a nominal temp of 100 (for an i7 anyway) on failure, and guesstimate lower temps with a nominal gradient starting from the failure temp assumption and going back to idle.
So none of them are "accurate" in terms of actual temperature. From Intel's POV distance to failure is what's important, not actual temps. Hope I got that right.

UncleWeb or UncleWebb (?) seems to be the man for this. He wrote one of those progs.

Need more coffee now?

I get what ur saying , kinda . So the temp readings from these software are only distance to tjmax readings than calculated into a temperature ? refill please.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
I get what ur saying , kinda . So the temp readings from these software are only distance to tjmax readings than calculated into a temperature ? refill please.

That can't be right or else the temps would go down under load meaning your getting closer to the tjmax temp. RealTemp shows you distance to tjmax and core temps at the same time. Intel chips have a temp diode right on the cores so it should be reading accurate temps at full load.


----------



## alancsalt

Oh, it is right. It is calculated FROM distance to tjmax. It is not distance to tjmax itself, but what is left after subtracting it from tjmax. No it is not a "temp diode" anymore.

Quote:

More than a few programs have been released over the last few years, each claiming to accurately report these DTS values in real-time. The truth is that none can be fully trusted as the Tjunction values utilized in these transformations may not always be correct. Moreover, Intel representatives have informed us that these as-of-yet unpublished Tjunction values may actually vary from model to model - sometimes even between different steppings - and that the temperature response curves may not be entirely accurate across the whole reporting range. Since all of today's monitoring programs have come to incorrectly assume that Tjunction values are a function of the processor family/stepping only, we have no choice but to call everything we thought we had come to know into question. Until Intel decides to publish these values on a per-model basis, the best these DTS readings can do for us is give a relative indication of each core's remaining thermal margin, whatever that may be.
(Anand) Intel Core Temperature Explained


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alancsalt* 
Oh, it is right. It is calculated FROM distance to tjmax. It is not distance to tjmax itself, but what is left after subtracting it from tjmax. No it is not a "temp diode" anymore.

(Anand) Intel Core Temperature Explained

Interesting. Thanks


----------



## alancsalt

I might of drunk a bit much coffee there, but went through that learning when I first got my E8500 in 2008 and none of the temp progs quite agreed......


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alancsalt* 
I might of drunk a bit much coffee there, but went through that learning when I first got my E8500 in 2008 and none of the temp progs quite agreed......

Lol. Thats when I bought my E8500 as well. I was told here on OCN that they used a temp diode/sensor right on the cores to accurately display core temps. I never had a good reason to doubt it and research it myself. Figures


----------



## Krlll

Just installed the H70.
Was using a Tuniq Tower 120.
The TT was dusty but even with a Delta FFB1212EH it couldnt come close to the performance of the H70.

Happy all in one liquid cooling solutions have come of age.
I had a not very nice experience with the crappy CoolIT Domino lol.

I have the H70 exhausting out the back of the case.
For the Antec 1200 I think a better solution would be to have both rear 120mm as intakes and turn up the RPM on the 240mm exhaust on the top but I smoke too much and have problems with dust in my PC as it is,in the Summer I may buy filters for the rear 120mm fans if temps start to go up.

Prime95 100% for 1 hour,all cores 1.375v 4Ghz 60c.Ambient 21c


----------



## Carfanatic

I been looking at some LED fans for another H50 for a friends computer I was looking at some Yate Loons and was going to get them from Performance PCS I noticed something odd and don't know the difference between them though wondered if someone here might though.

Besides the price the only difference is see is one is model D12SM-124B and the other is D12SM-124UB.

Might have found the difference now that I looked at the pictures but still want to know for sure the specifications look exactly the same still. It looks like the 124B is clear and the 124UB is "clear" blue.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27142

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=22036


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
I been looking at some LED fans for another H50 for a friends computer I was looking at some Yate Loons and was going to get them from Performance PCS I noticed something odd and don't know the difference between them though wondered if someone here might though.

Besides the price the only difference is see is one is model D12SM-124B and the other is D12SM-124UB.

Might have found the difference now that I looked at the pictures but still want to know for sure the specifications look exactly the same still. It looks like the 124B is clear and the 124UB is "clear" blue.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27142

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=22036

Looks to me like one is UV reactive and the other is not. I have coolermaster R4's with green led's and they seem to perform pretty well on my H50. I even use a couple for case fans too. They look pretty nice with the black frame instead of clear but thats just personal preference.

CM R4


----------



## SilverSS/SC

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
I been looking at some LED fans for another H50 for a friends computer I was looking at some Yate Loons and was going to get them from Performance PCS I noticed something odd and don't know the difference between them though wondered if someone here might though.

Besides the price the only difference is see is one is model D12SM-124B and the other is D12SM-124UB.

Might have found the difference now that I looked at the pictures but still want to know for sure the specifications look exactly the same still. It looks like the 124B is clear and the 124UB is "clear" blue.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27142

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=22036

The D12SM-124UB is uv reactive. The 124B is just led. I have 5 D12SH-12UB fans in my corsair 800d. All uv reactive blue led fans. They are good cheap fans.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Krlll* 
Just installed the H70.
Was using a Tuniq Tower 120.
The TT was dusty but even with a Delta FFB1212EH it couldnt come close to the performance of the H70.

Happy all in one liquid cooling solutions have come of age.
I had a not very nice experience with the crappy CoolIT Domino lol.

I have the H70 exhausting out the back of the case.
For the Antec 1200 I think a better solution would be to have both rear 120mm as intakes and turn up the RPM on the 240mm exhaust on the top but I smoke too much and have problems with dust in my PC as it is,in the Summer I may buy filters for the rear 120mm fans if temps start to go up.

Prime95 100% for 1 hour,all cores 1.375v 4Ghz 60c.Ambient 21c










Haha sounds abit like me , i smoke too much also right next to my pc and due to that dust is a major problem in this room . Nice setup though man 60c at 4Ghz is nice =) i got the same case as u also and my rad is in the same place too !! antec 1200 and ciggarettes ftw

Theres a fella on here that has a 1200 , he cant get his h50 mounted uptop n he was wondering about the h70 . Did the rad bolt up nicely to the holes ? it did for me but some people are having issues putting these on the top rear exhaust fan . Im assuming antec revised the case for these new watercooling systems in 2009/2010 anyone that owned one prior to this will probably not be able to fit it ? just guessing ..

I love the h70 rad its twice as thick as the h50 , should of got one of those hmmm


----------



## Krlll

It was tight enough but not too difficult.
I have owned this 1200 since before 2009 as far as I remember so it should be fine.


----------



## looser101

Here are the max numbers from Martin's fan testing on a rad.

Noctua VS Gentle Typhoon

Noctua S12B 47.1dB 26.1cfm
Noctua P12 53.0dB 25.3cfm

GT AP-15 45.3dB 35.3cfm
GT AP-14 41.0dB 28.0cfm


----------



## seesee

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


Here are the max numbers from Martin's fan testing on a rad.

Noctua VS Gentle Typhoon

Noctua S12B 47.1dB 26.1cfm
Noctua P12 53.0dB 25.3cfm

GT AP-15 45.3dB 35.3cfm
GT AP-14 41.0dB 28.0cfm


is p12 really that bad.... I don't understand why P12 fair so badly compare to GT AP-15

maybe is because noctua factor in the 6 years warranty into the price.

by the way does he measure static pressure too?


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seesee*


is p12 really that bad.... I don't understand why P12 fair so badly compare to GT AP-15

maybe is because noctua factor in the 6 years warranty into the price.

by the way does he measure static pressure too?


The difference comes down to fan speed. The P12 is ~1300rpm and the AP-15 is ~1850rpm. All else being equal, the faster fan wins. The noise profile comes down to the fan design, especially the fan blades.

Static pressure is measured indirectly. Static pressure is what gives a fan the ability to push air through a restriction (rad). Since he is testing with a rad the only important number is the cfm at a noise level you can tolerate. The AP-15 not only moves more air but it's quieter doing it. There are plenty of other fans that can move more air through a rad but not as quietly as a Gentle Typhoon.


----------



## Xristo

So the s12b is quieter and more cfm that the p12 , nice . Glad i went with those , didnt know they had 6 year warrenty ? being $30 each u think u wuld just buy another one if it broke which is highly unlikely for a fan to give up on you .

After reading info on all these fans after i purchased my noctua's id like to try something else also . Im liking these GT's . Id really like to go 38mm though .

Whats the best 38mm fans for the h50 ?

btw : Page 1500 FTW







far out 1500 pages of info on the h50/70 nicee


----------



## seesee

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looser101*


The difference comes down to fan speed. The P12 is ~1300rpm and the AP-15 is ~1850rpm. All else being equal, the faster fan wins. The noise profile comes down to the fan design, especially the fan blades.

Static pressure is measured indirectly. Static pressure is what gives a fan the ability to push air through a restriction (rad). Since he is testing with a rad the only important number is the cfm at a noise level you can tolerate. The AP-15 not only moves more air but it's quieter doing it. There are plenty of other fans that can move more air through a rad but not as quietly as a Gentle Typhoon.


so that means Gentle Typhoon chunk out more CFM and is quieter than a noctua P12...even at higher RPM.

something is very wrong with Noctua, I still see a lot of people using it... that makes me wonder.


----------



## looser101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


So the s12b is quieter and more cfm that the p12 , nice . Glad i went with those , didnt know they had 6 year warrenty ? being $30 each u think u wuld just buy another one if it broke which is highly unlikely for a fan to give up on you .

After reading info on all these fans after i purchased my noctua's id like to try something else also . Im liking these GT's . Id really like to go 38mm though .

Whats the best 38mm fans for the h50 ?

btw : Page 1500 FTW







far out 1500 pages of info on the h50/70 nicee


You choose:










LOTS more info


----------



## Xristo

scythe UK3 or delta it is im leaning more towards the delta i like how it sits on the graph , Does anybody know where u can purchase 2 of these fans in aus ? i haven seen them on the shelf at my local pc store . Never seen them actually ...

Does anyone use these fans ? wuld they be much better than the 2 x s12b im using atm ? obiovusly better but "much" better ?

If i knew where to buy them from id go buy some right now , cost means nothing .


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


Looks to me like one is UV reactive and the other is not. I have coolermaster R4's with green led's and they seem to perform pretty well on my H50. I even use a couple for case fans too. They look pretty nice with the black frame instead of clear but thats just personal preference.

CM R4


Sorry I wouldn't wish CM R4 fans on my worst enemies. If you got some good ones consider yourself very lucky. I at one time used 300+ of them and within a year all but 6 had either stopped working or developed some other problem like clicking noises or other odd noises.(I build, repair and sell computers) I hope they have improved their QC or where they get their fans from because of my experience with them in the past I will never use them again.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


scythe UK3 or delta it is im leaning more towards the delta i like how it sits on the graph , Does anybody know where u can purchase 2 of these fans in aus ? i haven seen them on the shelf at my local pc store . Never seen them actually ...

Does anyone use these fans ? wuld they be much better than the 2 x s12b im using atm ? obiovusly better but "much" better ?

If i knew where to buy them from id go buy some right now , cost means nothing .


Scythe UK3 you can get at PCCaseGear

Delta I cant find in Oz. Maybe order in from overseas.

The UK3 is one noisy powerful fan. I had two, but only ever used one, because of the noise. Like you I am now trying to find a source for Delta. I emailed Asia-Pacific Distributors to see if there was an agency or outlet in Oz and got this reply:

Quote:



This is Shirley of Global Itech Pte Ltd, Singapore, will be taking over your Delta inquiry,

Please provide below information before quote :-

1) Your project name/model ?
2) End-application ?
3) End-customer ?
4) Monthly / yearly usage ?
5) target mass production date ?
6) Mass production location ?
7) Any target price ?
8) where is the design-in location of your project ?
9) do you need any signal output and/or PWM feature for the fan ?
10) attached is the catalogue, please advise which model can best meet your requirement ?

Thanks & Regards,
Shirley
65 9180 0481
Global Itech Pte Ltd
48 Toh Guan Road East #09-127
Singapore 608586


LOL. Wrote back yesterday saying just an end user, but want 6 x AFB1212VHE . No reply yet.


----------



## Xristo

Just rang my pc store , they had no clue wat i was on about with these 38mm fans.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


Scythe UK3 you can get at PCCaseGear

Delta I cant find in Oz. Maybe order in from overseas.

The UK3 is one noisy powerful fan. I had two, but only ever used one, because of the noise. Like you I am now trying to find a source for Delta. I emailed Asia-Pacific Distributors to see if there was an agency or outlet in Oz and got this reply:

Wrote back yesterday saying just an end user. No reply yet.


Sweet , thats good info man. +rep

If you do by any chance source these fans in nsw , please give us a bell cheers man . We might be able to organise a group buy .

How much do the delta's go for in $aus?


----------



## Theory

Lapped H50 Here


----------



## maximus20895

What was the difference?


----------



## Theory

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maximus20895*


What was the difference?


About 4c off the full load temp for about an hours worth of sanding


----------



## Xristo

I wish intel cpu's ran that cool =(


----------



## XtachiX

we all do
i think =P


----------



## esproductions

Is there a guide to lapping?


----------



## XtachiX

its a simple thing really (correct me if i'm wrong)
you start lapping using 800 grit paper and rotate the h50/70 every minute or so to keep it all even from all directions
then you use 1000 grit paper and do the same thing
then 1500 then 2000 for it to be smooth and reflective
this whole process should take you about an hour or an hour and a half
good luck


----------



## mbudden

You Tube


----------



## wholeeo

How does a pair of AP-15 GT's do against a pair of CM Blade Masters on a H70? Also I had to remount my H70 the other day and used AC5. My idle temps with speedstep on with my overclock at 4.1ghz were 35c-38c and max running linx was never over 70c with the stock paste. With my remount and AC5 I'm hitting 72c-75c with linx running and idling at 42c-44c.







Very depressing.

By the way, I used the "rice grain" method for applying the AC5. I'll try remounting with manually spreading the paste. I know AC5 has a curing time but I'm skeptical that temps will drop down about 5c-6c once its cured.


----------



## AK-47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *looser101* 
You choose:










LOTS more info

I don't quite understand this chart
The UK3K is rated at 133.6 CFM but the chart says it's closer to 57?
It's also rated at 45.90 db but the chart says it's closer to 66?


----------



## Magus2727

The chart is most likely to be measuring these items with back pressure... Air flow, dBa and other measurements are different under back pressure....


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AK-47* 
I don't quite understand this chart
The UK3K is rated at 133.6 CFM but the chart says it's closer to 57?
It's also rated at 45.90 db but the chart says it's closer to 66?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magus2727* 
The chart is most likely to be measuring these items with back pressure... Air flow, dBa and other measurements are different under back pressure....

In addition...dB's are usually measured at 1m distance in free air. Martin measures at 12" distance and blowing through a rad. So those numbers are only comparable (relative) to each other. Same with cfm... typically measured at 0 backpressure...put a rad in front of that airflow and things can change dramatically at times.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
Sorry I wouldn't wish CM R4 fans on my worst enemies. If you got some good ones consider yourself very lucky. I at one time used 300+ of them and within a year all but 6 had either stopped working or developed some other problem like clicking noises or other odd noises.(I build, repair and sell computers) I hope they have improved their QC or where they get their fans from because of my experience with them in the past I will never use them again.

Wow I'm surprised to hear that. I've been running the same 6 CM R4's for over a year now and I haven't had a single issue with any of them. They all work perfect with no funny noises at all. My 2 rad R4's have been pulled out of my computer and remounted a few dozen times and banged around quite a bit too and still work great. I guess I am pretty lucky then but now you got me all nervous about them lol


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t* 
Wow I'm surprised to hear that. I've been running the same 6 CM R4's for over a year now and I haven't had a single issue with any of them. They all work perfect with no funny noises at all. My 2 rad R4's have been pulled out of my computer and remounted a few dozen times and banged around quite a bit too and still work great. I guess I am pretty lucky then but now you got me all nervous about them lol

I originally bought/used them when they where fairly new so like I said hopefully they have either changed manufacturers for their fans or they have really worked on their QC. I don't even remember what company use to make CM fans.


----------



## seesee

hmm i just remounted my H70, i used the one line technique to apply thermal paste..

There after I run prime with the same setting previously and one of the workers always die after an hour due to round trip failure.

Could the problem be related to how I remounted the H70?

Is it okie to clean(Apply artic clean) the CPU Chip when is on the motherboard?


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *seesee* 
hmm i just remounted my H70, i used the one line technique to apply thermal paste..

There after I run prime with the same setting previously and one of the workers always die after an hour due to round trip failure.

Could the problem be related to how I remounted the H70?

Is it okie to clean(Apply artic clean) the CPU Chip when is on the motherboard?

I never take my cpu out to apply tim ? it does the same with mine in prime if the pump is not making 100% contact . That is your problem . Push on the pump while screwing it down . or even try running prime while putting pressure on the pump to see if that is the problem. thats how i checked mine i culd actually see my temps drop in real time when i put pressure on the pump and when i let go the temps rose abit ... its the mounting , those brackets suck!! if i was any good at making my own brackets id be making a nice solid metal back plate


----------



## seesee

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
I never take my cpu out to apply tim ? it does the same with mine in prime if the pump is not making 100% contact . That is your problem . Push on the pump while screwing it down . or even try running prime while putting pressure on the pump to see if that is the problem. thats how i checked mine i culd actually see my temps drop in real time when i put pressure on the pump and when i let go the temps rose abit ... its the mounting , those brackets suck!! if i was any good at making my own brackets id be making a nice solid metal back plate

heehee, actually the temperature improve by 5 degrees.

so I am happy with the new mounting, just trouble with 1 worker dying off during prime 85 test.

ohyes, I also notice that the tube inlet on the pump itself have some water or oil... im not sure what is it.. should I be concern that it might leak ?


----------



## Xristo

if you see water in your case anywhere , theres a concern .. if its starting to leak id fix that up immediatly. You should see no water , dunno where your seeing oil from :s


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *seesee* 
heehee, actually the temperature improve by 5 degrees.

so I am happy with the new mounting, just trouble with 1 worker dying off during prime 85 test.

ohyes, I also notice that the tube inlet on the pump itself have some water or oil... im not sure what is it.. should I be concern that it might leak ?

Any workers at all failing in stress tests like prime95 is an indication that your system is unstable and may lead to an unfortunately timed blue screen or freeze. If it was me I would look to my CPU and DIMM settings for the cause....try restoring factory defaults in bios and see if you still get a failure. If you don't then you can slowly work your way back up to what you were at, testing stability at each incremental increase. This is time consuming and boring but it is worth it.


----------



## TARRCO

Here's some shots of my H50 in my MATX compooper



























Cheers, Let me know what you think


----------



## dickcruz

I need an AM3 bracket if anyone has a spare


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TARRCO* 
Here's some shots of my H50 in my MATX compooper



























Cheers, Let me know what you think

Thats a tight fit , the rad has very confined space . Id suggest putting at the rear if it can fit which looks like it doesnt it will hit the pump am i right ? maybe if u lost the shroud .. your blowing all the hot air onto ur hdd then throughout the case and the gfx card which has 2 fans underneath sucking up everybit of that hot air being pushed out by the rad.. Half of the pull fan is blocked off also which is no good.

You should put it at the rear , if it dont fit put the push fan on the outside .. By the look of it u have 2 top exhaust fans also . It would breathe much easier this way and save ur gfx card from suffocating . Can you screw a 120mm fan onto the rear ? looks like it wont fit up there actually . that case is tiny. I think its time for a custom job , dremel out the rear and get that rad up there man you will see the best results and keep all ur other components cool too .

Also your hoses look like there being pulled too hard in the 2nd pic.

nice though , just a few tips..the h50 is quite capable of alot but not in that setup . But if it works well for you then thats all that matters ..


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dickcruz* 
I need an AM3 bracket if anyone has a spare









PM me your info and I can try to get one in the mail to you sometime tomorrow. I have loads, lol.


----------



## Oskars

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Bad picture of my setup. Antec 2speed, 25mm shroud and fan that came with corsair. Been planning to switch fans to something better maybe nanoxia.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
Thats a tight fit , the rad has very confined space . Id suggest putting at the rear if it can fit which looks like it doesnt it will hit the pump am i right ? maybe if u lost the shroud .. your blowing all the hot air onto ur hdd then throughout the case and the gfx card which has 2 fans underneath sucking up everybit of that hot air being pushed out by the rad.. Half of the pull fan is blocked off also which is no good.

You should put it at the rear , if it dont fit put the push fan on the outside .. By the look of it u have 2 top exhaust fans also . It would breathe much easier this way and save ur gfx card from suffocating . Can you screw a 120mm fan onto the rear ? looks like it wont fit up there actually . that case is tiny. I think its time for a custom job , dremel out the rear and get that rad up there man you will see the best results and keep all ur other components cool too .

Also your hoses look like there being pulled too hard in the 2nd pic.

nice though , just a few tips..the h50 is quite capable of alot but not in that setup . But if it works well for you then thats all that matters ..









I disagree =D
This is of course assuming his HDD isn't sitting at 60c and his GPU is under 100c and he plans to overclock. I know that is a lot of assuming so I probably am making an ass of myself but I would think either removing the shroud to give the pull fan a little clearance(though this is debatable too and should be tested both ways to see)would achieve the same result in temperature drop that putting it at rear/top of the case would but putting it at top and rear might also give an increase to the temperature of the air that is being sucked into the push fan due to the GPU and PSU exhausts as well as it just sitting higher in the room, which, to me, is worse.
The hoses look fine and still have some slack as you can see in the first pic.
Maybe it is just me but I'm much more limited by my CPU temp than my HDD or GPU or Mobo temps and it has priority over pretty much everything when I'm thinking of how to configure my components...As long as there is ample exhaust for the air inside the case it's really not going to be much of a problem for your components to leave it the way it is.
But all that said, I do cringe a little to see the rad's exhaust fan dry humping that HDD...but I'm still going to give him a +rep for actually fitting all that in there without any case modifications(as far as I can tell).


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Oskars* 


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Bad picture of my setup. Antec 2speed, 25mm shroud and fan that came with corsair. Been planning to switch fans to something better maybe nanoxia.

Not really fond of the antec fans , they are too loud .. I have 5 of them in my case and it sounds like an aircon i have to switch them on med setting ..

You will get better results with better fans.

nice setup


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slimbrady* 







I disagree =D
This is of course assuming his HDD isn't sitting at 60c and his GPU is under 100c and he plans to overclock. I know that is a lot of assuming so I probably am making an ass of myself but I would think either removing the shroud to give the pull fan a little clearance(though this is debatable too and should be tested both ways to see)would achieve the same result in temperature drop that putting it at rear/top of the case would but putting it at top and rear might also give an increase to the temperature of the air that is being sucked into the push fan due to the GPU and PSU exhausts as well as it just sitting higher in the room, which, to me, is worse.
The hoses look fine and still have some slack as you can see in the first pic.
Maybe it is just me but I'm much more limited by my CPU temp than my HDD or GPU or Mobo temps and it has priority over pretty much everything when I'm thinking of how to configure my components...As long as there is ample exhaust for the air inside the case it's really not going to be much of a problem for your components to leave it the way it is.
But all that said, I do cringe a little to see the rad's exhaust fan dry humping that HDD....

Haha exactly , dry humping the hdd lol good one







yeah i agree with what ur saying , either way he needs to clear up some room down there so it can push and pull air freely instead of blowing it all onto that hdd it just seems stupid really . But in a case like that do u have a choice ? why is the hdd cage there anyways ? can it be moved ? to underneath ur dvd drive ? just a thought..


----------



## Oskars

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
Not really fond of the antec fans , they are too loud .. I have 5 of them in my case and it sounds like an aircon i have to switch them on med setting ..

You will get better results with better fans.

nice setup

Yeah i don t like antec fans either. Because they are too loud and those blue leds







Definitely gonna get better fans.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
Haha exactly , dry humping the hdd lol good one







yeah i agree with what ur saying , either way he needs to clear up some room down there so it can push and pull air freely instead of blowing it all onto that hdd it just seems stupid really . But in a case like that do u have a choice ? *why is the hdd cage there anyways ? can it be moved ? to underneath ur dvd drive* ? just a thought..

That is a good idea. Drill out those rivets and remove the cage then move the hdd to one of the 5.25" bays. Takes care of the problem.

Edit: Plus then you can add an exhaust shroud for optimum performance xDDDD


----------



## Xristo

But then the gfx card will be sucking in all the warm air , personally i wouldnt want my gfx card sucking in the warm air my h50 blows out ..its directly under it .

I would be setting it as exhaust so its breathing air from the case rather than blow the air inside , and move that hard drive into another compartment it dusnt belong their .. if you didnt have a h50 fine but since u do u got to give it breathing space.

If you have top exhaust fans why wuldnt u mount it there?


----------



## esproductions

remounted the H50 to the 5.25" bay


----------



## red-line

15000 post !
i can make book with that


----------



## mistax

i think im just goona hop on an get either a h50/h70 with 2x gentle typhoon to cool my 970 when it gets here. =( was goona get a rasa kit, but felt like if i wanted to do W/Cing i should do it with a full custom loop.


----------



## briang191

Im getting ready to install an H70 did anyone NOT use the 2 sided tape thats included in the install kit? I've seen some video's saying that tape might have caused some issues with the install. How many people installed the H70/H50 with air going in vs air going out of the case?

Any feedback would be great. Thanks in advance


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mistax* 
i think im just goona hop on an get either a h50/h70 with 2x gentle typhoon to cool my 970 when it gets here. =( was goona get a rasa kit, but felt like if i wanted to do W/Cing i should do it with a full custom loop.

i would go with the rasa kit... all the parts of it can be incorporated into a full loop in the future...unlike an h70. i have an h50 and h70 and custom loop and looking back it wouldve been much easier to just start with a basic kit and add to it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *briang191* 
Im getting ready to install an H70 did anyone NOT use the 2 sided tape thats included in the install kit? I've seen some video's saying that tape might have caused some issues with the install. Any feedback would be great. Thanks in advance










i didn't use the tape. just put the mounting bracket on with your mobo out and you won't even need the tape. then if you ever want to take it off in the future you can


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eloverton2* 
i would go with the rasa kit... all the parts of it can be incorporated into a full loop in the future...unlike an h70. i have an h50 and h70 and custom loop and looking back it wouldve been much easier to just start with a basic kit and add to it.

Agree. Started out with an H50, ended up with custom water. The H50/70 are about equal to best air, but you can see more motherboard.


----------



## briang191

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eloverton2* 
i would go with the rasa kit... all the parts of it can be incorporated into a full loop in the future...unlike an h70. i have an h50 and h70 and custom loop and looking back it wouldve been much easier to just start with a basic kit and add to it.

i didn't use the tape. just put the mounting bracket on with your mobo out and you won't even need the tape. then if you ever want to take it off in the future you can

did you mount the fans pulling in cool air or push warm air out?


----------



## eloverton2

i think almost everyone on this thread will agree its better to have the fans acting as exhaust- there is very little cpu cooling difference and it keeps from dumping all that hot air on your components


----------



## alancsalt

Without air spill from the stock cooler the NB and mobo don't get as much cooling. Better to put some extra cool air movement in there to compensate. An extra small fan on the NB helps a lot.
Corsair would have the CPU get all the best cooling to the disadvantage of the rest of the PCs internals, and against normal case flow. Go exhaust, and more add air flow to the rest of the case so the air to the rad isn't that warm.


----------



## seesee

Quote:


Originally Posted by *esproductions* 
remounted the H50 to the 5.25" bay










how do you mount it on your 5.25 bay? I am thinking of mounting my h70 there but do I need any special tools?


----------



## Prentice

Mine arrived yesterday and I just couldn't wait for the fans to arrive. Went ahead and installed it even though its sub-optimal at the moment. I'm in!!

Have 2 Scythe GT 1850's and a Tecnofront Airbox 120 coming in on Tuesday. I have so much cable management left to do that I am not looking forward to.


----------



## =Tac=

Been working on OC'ing my 1090T and have it up to 4ghz but my idle was running at 37*c and load at 57*c, so I decided to remount the h50 with a push/pull with a shroud. Did that Fan>Case>Shroud>Radiator>Fan, not really fan (no pun intended) of the having an external fan, but right not Idle dropped around 30, haven't primed it yet but so far I'm very happy about the initial results!

Depending on how it runs too, I may put some better fans on it (using corsair that comes with it and stock rear fan from HAF), if I feel like trying to drop temps a tad more.


----------



## Prentice

I saw how TARRCO mounted his/her H50 rad and was wondering if that was possible with my Lian Li PC-7B Plus II. From front to back, I'll be running a 120x25mm fan, the 120mm Airbox, H50 Rad, and another 120x25mm fan. Wonder if thats possible with my case. Mind you, I removed the HDD rack from the bottom front of my machine.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seesee*


hmm i just remounted my H70, i used the one line technique to apply thermal paste..

There after I run prime with the same setting previously and one of the workers always die after an hour due to round trip failure.

Could the problem be related to how I remounted the H70?



The general rule of thumb when you have one core that keeps running and one core that fails is you have to adjust cpu and/or mch references. I had the same issue a while back on one of my previously 8 hour P95 stable oc's. I went back in and adjusted my references and was back to being 12 hours P95 stable. I was told when this starts to happen its a sign that your cpu or mobo is degrading.


----------



## [email protected]

You guys think the H70 will fit on top rear exhaust of Antec 1200? Cuz my H50 is and it does fit. I'm just only concerned for gaps to reach and not hit my brackets of the 200mm fan on top especially side panel if i wanted shrouds outside of the case.


----------



## esproductions

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seesee*


how do you mount it on your 5.25 bay? I am thinking of mounting my h70 there but do I need any special tools?


For my case (Phantom) it fit almost perfectly, all I needed was 2 pieces of double sided tape.


----------



## Sgtbash

Finally just got a H50!


----------



## Shademaster

Has anyone seen this?










http://www.overclock.net/hardware-ne...n-geforce.html

And what are your opinions? I am actually excited about this!


----------



## Magus2727

I dont see how the small rad will cool it off... even though its not as much TDH as the 480, you still want a min of a 240 with a preferred 360 for something like that...

Would need to see benchmarking with temp results to see if its any good...


----------



## willieboy90

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shademaster*


Has anyone seen this?

photo snip

http://www.overclock.net/hardware-ne...n-geforce.html

And what are your opinions? I am actually excited about this!


I was very interested in the card untill I heard people thought it whould be rubbish because the rad, pump etc. are made by Coolit.

Could be that these people were a bunch of Coolit haters, but i ran into these reply's *alot.*

Can't wait to see the results though! Kits like these make watercooling alot more approachable for the amateurs like myself. And by that I mean that if it gives me good results and I like it, I have a bigger chance to set up my own watercooling system.


----------



## Shademaster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willieboy90*


I was very interested in the card untill I heard people thought it whould be rubbish because the rad, pump etc. are made by Coolit.

Could be that these people were a bunch of Coolit haters, but i ran into these reply's *alot.*

Can't wait to see the results though! Kits like these make watercooling alot more approachable for the amateurs like myself. And by that I mean that if it gives me good results and I like it, I have a bigger chance to set up my own watercooling system.


Well we'll see how it does, I am still in the race for this if it doesn't turn out to be $700.


----------



## willieboy90

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shademaster*


Well we'll see how it does, I am still in the race for this if it doesn't turn out to be $700.


me too









Really hope more will follow after iChill with these kits. But i expect a high price for these cards though.


----------



## werds

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


The stock screws that came with the cooler is 6-32 x 1Â¼.


Does the H70 use the same screw size as well? I am assuming it does but you know what you get when you assume!


----------



## tuffstuff

I got this mounted last night on an Intel Core 2 Duo 2.5ghz wolfdale chip and my idle is 37c.

Is that higher than it should be? I got it in a push pull with the 2 coolermaster fans that came on the side panel of my cm 690.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tuffstuff*


I got this mounted last night on an Intel Core 2 Duo 2.5ghz wolfdale chip and my idle is 37c.

Is that higher than it should be? I got it in a push pull with the 2 coolermaster fans that came on the side panel of my cm 690.


Idle temps don't mean squat post up some before and after load temps. My C2D never idles below 39C even when my ambient temps are in the mid teens.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


Idle temps don't mean squat post up some before and after load temps. My C2D never idles below 39C even when my ambient temps are in the mid teens.


That is high , my mates c2d at 4.1Ghz idles in the low 40's with some genreic aftermarket heatsink . So if your using a h50 at those speeds you should be ideling in the 20's with a h50 . My i7 @ 4.2Ghz idles lower than your c2d at stock speeds . Youve done something wrong ..


----------



## DJ4g63t

If your really that concerned about idle temps what were they before the H50/70? Whats your ambient temps and does your case have good airflow? How are your case temps?


----------



## alancsalt

Really, DJ4g63t is right. Idle temps are far from accurate regardless of where you read them from. Temperatures are approximated from distance to TJmax regardless of what you use to read them, and the further from TJmax they are the less accurate they are.

Overclock.net - What is Tj.max?


----------



## tuffstuff

i got to clean it up alittle better and get a new psu for it.

I tried switching the pump to a molex connector but it doesnt seem to make much of a difference.

I think they were low 30's with a arctic 7 freezer pro.

I have some arctic silver that i could remount it the h50 with.


----------



## Josh154

Hey guys, i bought a used h50 off another member for $50 shipped. It's coming with a ultra kaze 2000rpm fan, and a medium speed yate loon. Would it be okay to run both of these fans on the rad at once? I know they are both different speed's and one is a 38mm and one is not.

Im planning on having the h50 setup in a rear intake in my lexa s and having the two top fan's exhaust. Would i be best to put the ultra kaze as the push fan and the yate as a pull? Or would it be best to just run the ultra kaze alone as a push?


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
That is high , my mates c2d at 4.1Ghz idles in the low 40's with some genreic aftermarket heatsink . So if your using a h50 at those speeds you should be ideling in the 20's with a h50 . My i7 @ 4.2Ghz idles lower than your c2d at stock speeds . Youve done something wrong ..

I'm not concerned at all about my idle temps. My load temps are mighty fine and thats the only one that really matters. Why do you think I'm at stock speeds? Look at my sig I run 4.33GHz 24/7 lol. Its no secret that intel chips read inaccurate idle temps

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tuffstuff* 
i got to clean it up alittle better and get a new psu for it.

I tried switching the pump to a molex connector but it doesnt seem to make much of a difference.

I think they were low 30's with a arctic 7 freezer pro.

I have some arctic silver that i could remount it the h50 with.

What are your load temps? I've read a few reviews on the H50 before I bought mine that also said idle temps were a bit higher than other coolers that were tested but under load is where the H50 shined.


----------



## tuffstuff

ill have to download prime and let it run and get back to u on it


----------



## stratman

Hi all!!!

Finally got tired of having rad at back as intake on 902 and put it in front, very minor mods. By the way, gentle typhoon is now pulling. Here are some pics.Attachment 183284

Attachment 183285

Attachment 183286

Attachment 183287

Attachment 183288


----------



## stratman

And a few moreAttachment 183289

Attachment 183290

Attachment 183291

Attachment 183292

Attachment 183293


----------



## stratman

Last one:183294D
Attachment 183294


----------



## AK-47

maybe it's me but my temps seem kinda high......










reseated yesterday with some G-751 shin etsu because i thought I seated wrong with the stock pre applied shin etsu
Maybe i reseated wrong again?


----------



## DJ4g63t

stratman said:


> Attachment 183284
> 
> Attachment 183287
> 
> Am I seeing this correctly? You have the back fan pulling air into the case and the front fan pushing air out of the case? That would mean they are working against each other.


----------



## stratman

Nope, back is pushing out, rad at front is pulling. Ha gt backwards but remedied before startup


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stratman* 
Nope, back is pushing out, rad at front is pulling. Ha gt backwards but remedied before startup

Lol good catch you would of wondered why temps were horrible if you left it like that









Quote:


Originally Posted by *AK-47* 







maybe it's me but my temps seem kinda high......










reseated yesterday with some G-751 shin etsu because i thought I seated wrong with the stock pre applied shin etsu
Maybe i reseated wrong again?

Yeah those seem a bit high for a P95 test considering max safe temps for that cpu is 65C. I noticed with the G751 I had to apply a lil bit more of it than I do with other tims to get decent temps. How did you apply the G751?


----------



## Skoobs

if you shake an h50, can you hear the water slosh in it? or is that a sign of something wrong with it?


----------



## stratman

if you can hear water at all, there's a problem


----------



## =Tac=

I can hear the water in mine


----------



## tuffstuff

out of cpuid hardware monitor the temps i got out of running prime was

core 0 value is at 37c min was 34 and max was 47
core 1 value is at 37c min was 35 and max was 46 so basically a 10 degree difference.

also my amd 1075t is running at 24c so im thinking it might have something to do with the ambient temp.


----------



## Skoobs

anyone have a brand new one and can tell us if you can hear the water. i dont remember being able to, and im not going to sell it how that im done with it if theres a problem with it.


----------



## Plex

You definitely shouldn't hear water.


----------



## alchemik

I've heard my H50 slosh about 6 times since July.... It's usually only for a second, and most of the time I think it happened right as I either turned on the comp or woke it from sleep. I thought it was a normal sound since it is water cooling. Is this something that would warrant a RMA?


----------



## looser101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Skoobs* 
if you shake an h50, can you hear the water slosh in it? or is that a sign of something wrong with it?

There is a bit of air in it for expansion. If you shake it you will hear the liquid slosh around. It's quite normal.


----------



## Archer S

Quote:

There is a bit of air in it for expansion. If you shake it you will hear the liquid slosh around. It's quite normal.
This. I remember when i first got mine it has some slosh in it. and i remember when i reseated it a week ago it had the same slosh in it. Its by no means good, but it is normal.


----------



## smoke420

please add me to the club.

I herd the water slosh around from day one. judging by my temps its not a problem


----------



## Josh154

Hey guys, i bought a used h50 off another member for $50 shipped. It's coming with a ultra kaze 2000rpm fan, and a medium speed yate loon. Would it be okay to run both of these fans on the rad at once? I know they are both different speed's and one is a 38mm and one is not.

Im planning on having the h50 setup in a rear intake in my lexa s and having the two top fan's exhaust. Would i be best to put the ultra kaze as the push fan and the yate as a pull? Or would it be best to just run the ultra kaze alone as a push?


----------



## Zippy476

Somthing doesn't seem right.

i5 760 @4.0 1.35v (bios) 1.392v (load)

I ran Linx for 10 mins and these are my temps

C0 76
C1 79
C2 73
C3 78

I have the fans sucking air in from the back and the other fan blowing into the case, I have the fans at 100% in fan control and I have the pump at 100%


----------



## Telrin

seems about right to me, a voltage at 1.35, i'd expect about 70~

i have a real water cooling setup and an i5 750 and i still hit about 70+ at around 4Ghz


----------



## Zippy476

putting the pump in the cpu fan slot seemed to help incread the pump RPM. I also took the restrictors off and the temps went down around 70-73 ish, but they are way to loud to run at that level.

Honestly I am not very impressed, I mean maybe I don't have it seated well enough.

I don't understand how these guys got this http://www.guru3d.com/article/corsair-h70-review/10 and I am sitting here with 80 temps.

I have the fans as intake (taking the air from outside and bringing it in), do they work better the other way?


----------



## AK-47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


Yeah those seem a bit high for a P95 test considering max safe temps for that cpu is 65C. I noticed with the G751 I had to apply a lil bit more of it than I do with other tims to get decent temps. How did you apply the G751?


I did the line method. I applied a line of shin etsu on the cpu then placed h70 on top of it


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AK-47*


I did the line method. I applied a line of shin etsu on the cpu then placed h70 on top of it


Another important factor is making sure you tighten down the pump evenly on the cpu. I like to hold the pump down by hand rather firmly while gradually tightening down the bolts in a X pattern. I also crank mine down so tight that it starts to crush the plastic clips the bolts go through.

In case I haven't ask you already lol what are you ambient temps and hows the airflow in your case? Those 2 can have a big impact on your load temps.

I just noticed your a fellow MASS-hole lol What part of MA?


----------



## jahlive2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shademaster*


Has anyone seen this?










http://www.overclock.net/hardware-ne...n-geforce.html

And what are your opinions? I am actually excited about this!


i've seen something similar with the 4870x2 but it also cooled the cpu (65w c2d)
it was just within safe limits, should be okay if it's just 1 gfxcard unless the rad+fan combo is crappy

about the h70:
using it for about a week now and i was hoping to improve temps by using better fans like the ultra kaze, gentle typhoon, and silenx, any tests done about that?
(running an i5 [email protected] 1.232V) fans connected to a molex adapter and the pump to the power header.
(i now have to boot-up with the cpu fan error everytime -.-)


----------



## Balsagna

I have the H50 and it performs as good as High end air at idle and on load... however, the downside of the H50/70 is that the longer you're benching, the higher your temps will get because the water inside the kit will not cool off quick enough in that small rad.

I'm going to be selling my H50 and upping to a real water solution to push 4.5ghz on core i7 920


----------



## [email protected]

I got a H70 on the way.. finally.. for my new build soon. Hopefully it'll fit the top rear of my Antec 1200. I'm gonna be more prepared this time instead of using big screws and hitting my rad fins. They still work although and i am using it right now lol. I'm gonna treat the H70 with some TLC this time.


----------



## AK-47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


Another important factor is making sure you tighten down the pump evenly on the cpu. I like to hold the pump down by hand rather firmly while gradually tightening down the bolts in a X pattern. I also crank mine down so tight that it starts to crush the plastic clips the bolts go through.

In case I haven't ask you already lol what are you ambient temps and hows the airflow in your case? Those 2 can have a big impact on your load temps.

I just noticed you're a fellow MASS-hole lol What part of MA?


I'll try reseating again and actually tighten it tighter this time and see what happens
My ambient is around 18-21. Got plenty off fans 2 in front 2 on the top 2 on the bottom plus the 2 UK3Ks on the radiator
So only logical problem seems to be a bad seat
I currently live in the north end and it sucks. I prefer south of the city much better like dedham, norwood, or foxboro


----------



## [email protected]

Oh also if you're gonna screw it in, please press the cpu seated when doing that and make sure you screw them X shaped because you'd wanna count how many times you screw then leading the heatsink to lay FLAT even.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jahlive2* 
i've seen something similar with the 4870x2 but it also cooled the cpu (65w c2d)
it was just within safe limits, should be okay if it's just 1 gfxcard unless the rad+fan combo is crappy

about the h70:
using it for about a week now and i was hoping to improve temps by using better fans like the ultra kaze, gentle typhoon, and silenx, any tests done about that?
(running an i5 [email protected] 1.232V) fans connected to a molex adapter and the pump to the power header.
(i now have to boot-up with the cpu fan error everytime -.-)

Without getting too much into because I don't have time....Yes, you will see a 5c(minimum) difference in going from stock fans to something more powerful with better static pressure. My experience was about 7-9c difference with the UK3K's and that is quite significant as I'm trying to push my chip to the brink, hehe.


----------



## rup3t

Hey guys, new H50 owner here.

I was hoping you guys could help me out. I feel like my temps are a decent bit to high for what they should be, but I could use some more opinions.










I have the H50 set up in a push/pull with the stock Corsair fan pushing, and an Antec case fan pulling. I know having two different types of fans is not optimal, but I wanted to test the push/pull.

I currently have the H50 set up exhausting out the back, not intaking, but I have tried both setups. I tried both with a single fan set to push also. I even tried moving the rad and fan out of the case, to make sure it wasnt ambient temps or air congestion inside the case. There was no real change.

I have also reseated the contact and again no change in temps.

The above image was taken while running Prime95.

More info:

Case Antec 902
i7 950
Asus Sabertooth x58
H50
12bg Corsair XMS3
EVGA GTX 460 768mb
Corsair HX 850

I currently have the 2 front fans intaking, my big top fan exhausting.

My CPU is idling at 39-40c and while running Prime95 its 66-68c. Most of the time I idle around 40c, and the second I start Prime95 it jumps up by 20c instantly, then slowly climbs another 7 or 8 over 5 to 10 minutes. That seems a bit high for only stock speeds. I wanted to OC, but I dont feel like with the current temps that would be a great idea.

The pump is running at 1300-1400rpm and the Corsair fan is running around 1600rpm.

Other system temps:
Motherboard 35c
Northbridge: 56c

As I said I would like to start OCing the system, but from other temps posted by people it seems mine is about 10 - 20 degrees hotter than most other peoples. Am I just being to anal or is this really running hotter than it should?


----------



## Xristo

yep that is way too high for stock frequency and that voltage ..


----------



## rup3t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
yep that is way too high for stock frequency and that voltage ..

Any ideas on what I am doing wrong? I feel like I have exhausted every option.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rup3t* 
Any ideas on what I am doing wrong? I feel like I have exhausted every option.

did you properly clean the surfaces before applying the new TIM? Did you apply an appropriate amount and ensure the surfaces mated evenly?


----------



## Tt2ent

My money is on thermal paste/seating problem fo sho.


----------



## Plex

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rup3t* 
Any ideas on what I am doing wrong? I feel like I have exhausted every option.

What are your ambient temps?


----------



## rup3t

My ambient temps are around 22-23c.

I actually returned my first H50 because a friend told me he thought it was faulty. This second unit I just got is running almost identical temps. Maybe 2c cooler at idle and load. I am currently using their stock thermal paste as I was told its pretty good stuff.

I mounted it very carefully. Using the X pattern to tighten the screws while applying pressure on the unit.

I went out and got some 99% isoprophyl alcohol, and cleaned the CPU pretty damn good before mounting this thing.

Very frustrated at the moment. I can't think of anything else to do. I was planning on getting some nice good fans for it, but right now I don't want to spend any more money on this unit if I cant bring the temps at stock down a bit.


----------



## Plex

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rup3t* 
My ambient temps are around 22-23c.

I actually returned my first H50 because a friend told me he thought it was faulty. This second unit I just got is running almost identical temps. Maybe 2c cooler at idle and load. I am currently using their stock thermal paste as I was told its pretty good stuff.

I mounted it very carefully. Using the X pattern to tighten the screws while applying pressure on the unit.

I went out and got some 99% isoprophyl alcohol, and cleaned the CPU pretty damn good before mounting this thing.

Very frustrated at the moment. I can't think of anything else to do. I was planning on getting some nice good fans for it, but right now I don't want to spend any more money on this unit if I cant bring the temps at stock down a bit.

How are you applying your TIM?

Might just be a bad unit







.


----------



## rup3t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Plex* 
How are you applying your TIM?

Might just be a bad unit







.

I am using their TIM. It came installed on the unit. And this is my second one, with almost identical temps.


----------



## Plex

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rup3t* 
I am using their TIM. It came installed on the unit. And this is my second one, with almost identical temps.

You said you reseated and cleaned off the CPU, I thought?

You can't reuse that same TIM.


----------



## rup3t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Plex*


You said you reseated and cleaned off the CPU, I thought?

You can't reuse that same TIM.


Sorry if I was unclear. I have had 2 different H50s. I reseated the first one, and when that didnt help I returned the H50 and got a new one. This new one is currently seated with the stock compound.


----------



## Zippy476

H70:

Is there any install and TIM tips? I have just been doing the old grain of rice method on my proc but I wonder if you need more then that and if you should put TIM on both the proc and cooler?

Also is the best fan arraignment to bring air in to the case or to take air that is in the case and blow it out the back intake vs. exhaust.

I am using the stock fans and just wondering if there are better ones and what you would recommend and at what percent (100% with stock fans is just too loud).

Thanks.


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rup3t*


I am using their TIM. It came installed on the unit. And this is my second one, with almost identical temps.


Not sure what fan speeds you have set, but try running the top fan at m, and the rear fan at h,...you may need to add a side fan blowing in as it seems the rad is not cooling very well. Have to agree with the other posts though,...sounds like it isn't seated properly.


----------



## M-M-M-Monster Kill

question for you H70/50 users... im looking into a push pull exhaust setup kinda like... pull fan>shroud>case wall>radiator>shroud>push fan... with GT 1850's. So onto the question, I'm looking into getting a CM HAF 932 but like other CM cases it has the mesh bump out behind the 140mm stock fan. How are you guys overcoming this bump out.. like wouldn't it interfere with mounting against the back of the case?


----------



## seesee

Quote:



Originally Posted by *M-M-M-Monster Kill*


question for you H70/50 users... im looking into a push pull exhaust setup kinda like... pull fan>shroud>case wall>radiator>shroud>push fan... with GT 1850's. So onto the question, I'm looking into getting a CM HAF 932 but like other CM cases it has the mesh bump out behind the 140mm stock fan. How are you guys overcoming this bump out.. like wouldn't it interfere with mounting against the back of the case?


get a HAF-X ?









anyway since is an exhaust.. does the mesh makes a different?


----------



## M-M-M-Monster Kill

well... no the HAF-X is the same way, and its not the mesh im woried about its how it protrudes from the back of the case, just like alot of other cases. I'm just not sure i see how you can mount up against it, like it wouldnt be flush.


----------



## rup3t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *clubfoot*


Not sure what fan speeds you have set, but try running the top fan at m, and the rear fan at h,...you may need to add a side fan blowing in as it seems the rad is not cooling very well. Have to agree with the other posts though,...sounds like it isn't seated properly.


I have tried changing all my fan settings, except for the Corsair fan thats pushing on the Radiator. It there is no change in CPU temps. Some high and some Med, all High, all low, some high others low.

I am not sure how it could be seated improperly, as I was very careful, and followed the Corsair video very closely.

Do you guys think I should replace the Stock TIM with Arctic Silver 5?


----------



## [email protected]

I have a question guys, i got a H70 arriving Wed and i know it always comes with the tim applied already, as you can see i already currently own the H50 but knowing that it comes with the tim and it is spread a bit wide.

Do you think i'd have to wipe of the edges since they are too big and applied too wide to install it or leave it alone? I always weight the decision if i should use Artic Silver 5 on my H70 but i know the Shin is such a good tim. Why do they always spread it too wide? What if it gets on the other parts around by the processor cuz the tim is a bit wide but i dunno how it looks on the H70 compared to the H50?

Advice?


----------



## Lord Xeb

:/ My H50 gives me almost the same times as my S1283 did... Is this normal?


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lord Xeb* 
:/ My H50 gives me almost the same times as my S1283 did... Is this normal?

My H50 is only about 1-2*C better than my Dark Knight cooler was using the same fans (push/pull).


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rup3t* 
I have tried changing all my fan settings, except for the Corsair fan thats pushing on the Radiator. It there is no change in CPU temps. Some high and some Med, all High, all low, some high others low.

I am not sure how it could be seated improperly, as I was very careful, and followed the Corsair video very closely.

Do you guys think I should replace the Stock TIM with Arctic Silver 5?

The pump isnt tight enough , mine is way tighter than corsair's recomendation if i only tightened it like a little girl a few turns a time my temps would sky rocket through the roof ur water block isnt making 100% contact with your cpu theres no doubt... I used As5 over the factory stuff and its alot better .

Everyones setups and temps are going to differ , depending on how u tightened the pump , what sort of thermal paste ur using n how u applied it ..


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]lif3* 
I have a question guys, i got a H70 arriving Wed and i know it always comes with the tim applied already, as you can see i already currently own the H50 but knowing that it comes with the tim and it is spread a bit wide.

Do you think i'd have to wipe of the edges since they are too big and applied too wide to install it or leave it alone? I always weight the decision if i should use Artic Silver 5 on my H70 but i know the Shin is such a good tim. Why do they always spread it too wide? What if it gets on the other parts around by the processor cuz the tim is a bit wide but i dunno how it looks on the H70 compared to the H50?

Advice?

Id be removing the factory pad and applying as5 but thats my personal preference , the block is physically no wider than the h50 so even if u were to use the shin etsu it would be fine aslong as you tighten the pump to the cpu correctly you should see a nice temp difference from the h50 , it wont make a mess dont worry ... What fans do you plan on using ?

Have you thought about lapping your cpu and the waterblock before you install ? maybe try that after so you can tell the temp differences . You will get better temps with a lapped cpu and block ..Thats a reason to buy some as5 also , you can play around with it take off the block etc if your not happy with temps and reapply the paste which u cant do with the shin etsu pad .

Best of luck getting it all in ur 1200 , hope it fits for ya =)


----------



## Hawk-nVidia

Hello fellas


----------



## [email protected]

I ain't lapping a brand new processor dude.. as for the cooler i ain't doing that too either i rather not void my warranty it's new!

I'm using Cooler Master fans and they blow 90CFM

I just only was concerned if the shin was pasted too wide like i seen in the H50 and it got stuff on my counter parts but i wiped them off safely.

I ain't worried and i am sure it will fit, otherwise if it doesn't i can always go intake if i can get the tubes to reach the processor. I'll have to make preparations before i do anything especially getting the right screws cuz i totally don't wanna screw into my rad fins. (Like i did with the H50) and it still works good lol.


----------



## [email protected]

Did you mod that H50? Looks sick with silver tubes.. I like your sleeves on the psu. I wish i can do that too but i cannot afford 400 dollars to pay Frozen.cpu to sleeve every wire of my psu!







Nice set up i'm impressed. Is that a cooler master case?

You could have mounted it on the top imo..


----------



## Hawk-nVidia

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]* 
Did you mod that H50? Looks sick with silver tubes.. I like your sleeves on the psu. I wish i can do that too but i cannot afford 400 dollars to pay Frozen.cpu to sleeve every wire of my psu!







Nice set up i'm impressed. Is that a cooler master case?

You could have mounted it on the top imo..

The tubes look silver because of the sunlight on them








Yea on the top would work but i'd prefer to have it at the back (looks better lol)

And as for the sleeve, they are just extensions that cost like $5 off ebay









and yes, it is a cooler master case.
here is a pic of it all nice and dirty


----------



## [email protected]

The extension is a brillant idea and i have thought myself to get a pair for the ATX and PCI-E connectors and a few more just to touch it up. I Dislike Black Sleeves.

I could do them myself but i'm too frighten for breaking the ATX connector.

Reason why i said the far top would been better cuz i think heat will rise from your video card and go straight into your rad.. Then again your airflow set up a lil different but if it works fine then cool.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


I ain't lapping a brand new processor dude.. as for the cooler i ain't doing that too either i rather not void my warranty it's new!

I'm using Cooler Master fans and they blow 90CFM

I just only was concerned if the shin was pasted too wide like i seen in the H50 and it got stuff on my counter parts but i wiped them off safely.

I ain't worried and i am sure it will fit, otherwise if it doesn't i can always go intake if i can get the tubes to reach the processor. I'll have to make preparations before i do anything especially getting the right screws cuz i totally don't wanna screw into my rad fins. (Like i did with the H50) and it still works good lol.


Mine was brand new and i did it , if you do it properly theres no way you can damage the cpu unless ur a dumb c**t and sand it upside down lol.. Upto you though , your temps will be better guarenteed .. Something to look at later on ..

i dunno how u screwed into ur radiator ? the screw holes are nowhere near it ..


----------



## werds

Ok - purchased my H70 second hand - it is going to be part of my wifes rig so I am fine tuning everything in it - I just noticed that apparently I can only set the fan speeds on the stock fans to either High or Low? High sounds like a friggin turbine... and Low is set by adding the extensions with resistors?

Is there any other way to set these to a lower but not dirt low setting? BIOS (and if so could you please provide info







) Not sure how to do these since I usually purchase fans at the speed I NEED them at and don't bother past that


----------



## [email protected]

I have no idea but you could always buy some grills for the fans to lower the sounds or sound dampening but as for making it lower, not sure. I'm hearing impaired so luckily me the airflow sound ain't important to me. But i do frequently check to make sure there are no loud noises cuz i wear my aid on my left ear an the tower is on my left side lol.


----------



## Jeramabih

I just finished putting together my new Cooler Master HAF 922 with a H70 and this fan whine is going to drive me nuts.

I love how much cooler my CPU runs compared to the Antec Sonata and Hyper212+ build, but it's much louder than I had anticipated. I have 2 of the orange nexus fans sitting around now... does anyone know what kind of temperature increase (if any at all) I could expect if I went with them?

Here are the fans I'm referring to: http://www.endpcnoise.com/cgi-bin/e/std/sku=nexus120mm


----------



## rup3t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jeramabih*


I just finished putting together my new Cooler Master HAF 922 with a H70 and this fan whine is going to drive me nuts.


Hey Jeramabih, what temps are you running, your CPU and board are the same as mine, but I seem to be having problems with high temps.

I just tried to take me CPU to 3.7, and running Prime I hit 91c with a H50 in push/pull.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jeramabih*


I just finished putting together my new Cooler Master HAF 922 with a H70 and this fan whine is going to drive me nuts.

I love how much cooler my CPU runs compared to the Antec Sonata and Hyper212+ build, but it's much louder than I had anticipated. I have 2 of the orange nexus fans sitting around now... does anyone know what kind of temperature increase (if any at all) I could expect if I went with them?

Here are the fans I'm referring to: http://www.endpcnoise.com/cgi-bin/e/std/sku=nexus120mm


Those only give ~36CFM I don't remember the exact specs of the H70 fans but I think even at the lowered speed of 1600rpm they are at 50CFM. So those Nexus fans would not even come close to the minimum speed/CFM/Static pressure of the stock corsair fans so I would expect a great temp increase if you went with them.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *werds*


Ok - purchased my H70 second hand - it is going to be part of my wifes rig so I am fine tuning everything in it - I just noticed that apparently I can only set the fan speeds on the stock fans to either High or Low? High sounds like a friggin turbine... and Low is set by adding the extensions with resistors?

Is there any other way to set these to a lower but not dirt low setting? BIOS (and if so could you please provide info







) Not sure how to do these since I usually purchase fans at the speed I NEED them at and don't bother past that










There is other ways like 3rd party fan controllers or undervolting but the easiest is hopefully done via bios or software that's compatible with your wife's mobo such as 'speedfan' or 'fanxpert'. It all depends on what hardware you're plugging them into....the only thing I can think of at the moment that is universal is the 3rd party fan controllers you can get from newegg, fry's, performancepc's, xoxide, frozencpu etc etc etc....

But as I said the easiest and most likely cheapest way is through your BIOS or mobo-compatible software you can get free trials of. More info on the hardware setup of your wife's PC is needed if you need more detailed instructions.


----------



## SpeacialFeatures

got an H70 about a month ago, looks as cool as it keeps my i7








so count me in. by the way, hi everyone first post.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpeacialFeatures*


got an H70 about a month ago, looks as cool as it keeps my i7








so count me in. by the way, hi everyone first post.


Hello and congratulations on first post/welcome to the club!







Please post pics of your setup for our inspiration and enjoyment









---and system specs + temps at load/idle are always nice for other members with similar hardware to reference and gauge their setup and configurations!!


----------



## werds

Yea, any help would be appreciated - my wife's rig is in my sig right now - had to steal the motherboard from my rig for it, so she got a free upgrade that will hopefully not burnout!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimbrady*


There is other ways like 3rd party fan controllers or undervolting but the easiest is hopefully done via bios or software that's compatible with your wife's mobo such as 'speedfan' or 'fanxpert'. It all depends on what hardware you're plugging them into....the only thing I can think of at the moment that is universal is the 3rd party fan controllers you can get from newegg, fry's, performancepc's, xoxide, frozencpu etc etc etc....

But as I said the easiest and most likely cheapest way is through your BIOS or mobo-compatible software you can get free trials of. More info on the hardware setup of your wife's PC is needed if you need more detailed instructions.


----------



## willieboy90

Man, I've completely had it with searching for the right fans to use in push/pull config for my h50.

Please help me out here! I am defenitely not going to buy Scythe GP's since they're not my taste









Please let me know what's a good alternative! I've been thinking about buying Scythe Kama flex or the Kama flow 2. They do better than the Yate Loons, make more noise than the GP's, but have highter CFM through a rad (mrmartin's thread)

+rep for good advices here


----------



## eloverton2

i have two of these gelid pwm fans in p/p on my h70 with a pwm y splitter controlled by the cpu fan mobo header. they are pretty quiet even at full speed.

i also have one of these slipstreams in push on my h50 also set so slow down on the cpu fan header.

i have a couple of the s-flex's that you mentioned, but didn't use them on my rads, because the center of the fan is quite large. in comparison, the slip streams are quieter and have a smaller center hub.

edit: both fan configs (on my h70 and h50) keep the cpu's under 40*c folding 24/7 (one 1090t and one 970x4) at tolerable noise levels.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *werds*


Yea, any help would be appreciated - my wife's rig is in my sig right now - had to steal the motherboard from my rig for it, so she got a free upgrade that will hopefully not burnout!


Well I was able to find a photo of the BIOS for that mobo and can see it does indeed have some fan control settings under the H/W Monitor tab. 
I am unable to tell exactly what these can be set to(in the picture they're all set at 100%) there should at least be a high-med-low setting I would think so....
Try connecting the fans to any of the SYS_FAN headers on the mobo and enter into the bios->H/W Monitor->System fan control and play around with it a bit....keep an eye on your temps though while you do this and make sure she's not gonna fry your nice parts! Install some sort of CPU temp monitoring software once you've regulated the fans like CoreTemp, HWMonitor, AIDA64 etc.etc....and simulate the absolute most CPU use you think she'd have going at one time while keeping an eye on the CPU temp and you'll hopefully be able to find a quiet setting the fans can be set to while maintaining a safe temperature for the cpu.

Most would probably tell you to use a stress testing program like IntelBurnTest or Prime95 or LiNX and if your wife uses the PC quite heavily, by all means, do so, but if she doesn't use it very heavily then it's quite unlikely she'll ever get close to the amount of use those programs will generate and you may have a little headroom for undervolting the fans.

Hmm....feeling the need to insert a disclaimer here for any components that may be damaged by heat....lol. Just be careful and keep it safe! You can always spring for some higher quality fans with reasonable DB/CFM ratios which is probably the best thing to do but also not as free









Hope that helps.


----------



## eloverton2

i second slimbrady, but it seems that most mobo's have an auto cpu fan speed setting somewhere, you just have to find it.


----------



## Jeramabih

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rup3t*


Hey Jeramabih, what temps are you running, your CPU and board are the same as mine, but I seem to be having problems with high temps.

I just tried to take me CPU to 3.7, and running Prime I hit 91c with a H50 in push/pull.


Idle temps this morning after running all night are 35c and after about 30 minutes of prime95 last night with a default bios I was leveling out at 55c. Not too sure if that's good, bad or average though. But it beats the 74c that I was getting in the Sonata with a Hyper212+!


----------



## willieboy90

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eloverton2*


i have two of these gelid pwm fans in p/p on my h70 with a pwm y splitter controlled by the cpu fan mobo header. they are pretty quiet even at full speed.

i also have one of these slipstreams in push on my h50 also set so slow down on the cpu fan header.

i have a couple of the s-flex's that you mentioned, but didn't use them on my rads, because the center of the fan is quite large. in comparison, the slip streams are quieter and have a smaller center hub.

edit: both fan configs (on my h70 and h50) keep the cpu's under 40*c folding 24/7 (one 1090t and one 970x4) at tolerable noise levels.


So the kama's aren't good for rads beacuse they have a large centercircle? Saying that the slipstreams and the gelid are good fans, is the opposite that I conclude reading martins fantests. Are martins fan tests not reliable for useage with an H50?

+rep though!


----------



## Jeramabih

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Those only give ~36CFM I don't remember the exact specs of the H70 fans but I think even at the lowered speed of 1600rpm they are at 50CFM. So those Nexus fans would not even come close to the minimum speed/CFM/Static pressure of the stock corsair fans so I would expect a great temp increase if you went with them.


According to newegg the S-Flex will be 2 dBA louder than the oem fans of the H70. I guess that means I'll just have to live with the noise or get an external fan controller eh?

I do hope to overclock to ~4.2 here in the next few days, but I'd attempt lower clock speeds for some less noise.


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willieboy90*


So the kama's aren't good for rads beacuse they have a large centercircle? Saying that the slipstreams and the gelid are good fans, is the opposite that I conclude reading martins fantests. Are martins fan tests not reliable for useage with an H50?

+rep though!


oh i wouldn't say that martin's tests aren't reliable at all. i was just offering my opinion, since i had both a kama and a slipstream, i went with the slipstream because of the smaller hub, and have had good temps, so i never changed it.


----------



## willieboy90

I never considered to use a slipstream for a rad, because I thought those were not right for rad while reading martins thread.

Good to know that slipstreams work. What static pressure do they have (manufacturer spec)?


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willieboy90*


I never considered to use a slipstream for a rad, because I thought those were not right for rad while reading martins thread.

Good to know that slipstreams work. What static pressure do they have (manufacturer spec)?


There have been numerous fan discussions on this forum and many links to fan testing which I have been following from the start. So from an informed H50 owner let me just say that the slip steams are very good case fans but they are absolutely, positivley, horrible rad fans. Why? While they have good CFM, the blade design provides very bad static pressure so the CFM through a rad drops dramatically. Don't believe me? Google it or search back through this thread. Plenty of tests out there people.


----------



## Jayce1971

I've been wanting to really overclock the ol' 5800 X2 for a while, and I have a good board to do it with, but the Thermaltake R1 just don't cut it for heat disappation. Wife asked what I wanted for Christmas, and I said, "A Corsair H70 cpu cooler, Honey!.... and a fan controller!" We're gonna rein in those (3) Sythe Ultra Kaze 3000rpm case fans. Maybe just swap 'em on the H70 for over 120cfm of throughflow. But definately need a fan controller... damn thing sounds like a hoover, even while internet browsing.... We'll post some updated pics once it gets installed.


----------



## ehaze

Currently running a H50.

Can it handle adding a gtx 285 Hydro into the system?


----------



## Jayce1971

I believe from reading most of the thread, that, No it cannot handle a cpu and gpu of that size. maybe a 3X120 rad?


----------



## ghost_recon88

Does anyone know if I install an H50 in a SG05 case, and I have an optical drive installed, can I run a push/pull config?


----------



## rup3t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jeramabih*


Idle temps this morning after running all night are 35c and after about 30 minutes of prime95 last night with a default bios I was leveling out at 55c. Not too sure if that's good, bad or average though. But it beats the 74c that I was getting in the Sonata with a Hyper212+!


Much better than me. I am currently idling at 39-42 and after 5 minutes of Prime95 I am at 70+. Thats on stock speeds.


----------



## Magus2727

An H50 in current form unless crazy modified, can do only a CPU... any time you have both a CPU and a GPU most people will recommend at least the area of a 360 rad...


----------



## DyingCrow

I got my H50 about a week ago, last step on a complete computer overhaul, and im pretty happy with it.
Within a few hours of opening the box i was running at 4.2ghz stable, cores at 80-82ish constant full load. At 4.0ghz goes 65-70ish.
I did run it as a push pull exhaust from the beginning, but besides the stock fan, whatever else i have is salvaged parts i got from my work computer graveyard and some other stuff i had in a box, lack of funds.
I got a whole bunch of about 8 fans and tested to see which had the most output, to use on the radiator. A couple Evercools salvaged from Lenovos won the contest. Core temps dropped to about 75-78 full load.
Then i inverted the radiator setup, which seems to be a logical tubes up, to tubes down, and moved a spot cool from my ram to blow some more air directly on the radiator in/out at full speed. I didnt really believe that would make a difference, but i got another drop to about 74c. With 2 ghetto fans and a small noisy windmaker, how would it be with the good stuff








4.2ghz at 74-75 is good and proves that the H50 is a capable entry level LC solution, if its setup properly.
Above temps are core 0 temps, which is the hottest.
Im really drooling about the H50 mods ive been seeing around. Not only for the damn good looks, but it reflects the quality of the H50. No one mods crap









Programs i used to monitor and stress: Cpu-Z, True Temp (TJ Max 100), OCCT, Intel Burn Test, Prime 95, software bundled with board.

Ghetto rigged Old Thermaltake Armor case
i7950
Asus P6X58D-E
MSI Twin Frozr GTX460
6gb Patriot Sector 7
2x640GB 6Gb/s WD Caviar black raid 0
Many many huge, large, medium, small and tiny fans.


----------



## Hawk-nVidia

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ghost_recon88* 
Does anyone know if I install an H50 in a SG05 case, and I have an optical drive installed, can I run a push/pull config?

http://www.overclock.net/9005712-post45.html


----------



## [email protected]

I just got my H70 i'm so stoked! Gonna install my whole new set up tonight and say farewell to the 775 socket era. I wish i had 35 rep so i can sell stuff here but might have to do it elsewhere.


----------



## Xristo

I upgraded from 775 core 2 duo e7500 @ 3.6Ghz using a bsel mod since i was using intel mobo = no OC =( to 1155 i7 870 @ 4.2Ghz or even 4.4 if i like , you will love it i promise !!!! which cpu ?

Iv used quad core and C2D cpu's and compared to an i7 it sits way behind , you can feel the power with these new chips , goodbye lag.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


I just got my H70 i'm so stoked! Gonna install my whole new set up tonight and say farewell to the 775 socket era. I wish i had 35 rep so i can sell stuff here but might have to do it elsewhere.


It's still worth a try selling your parts, if you get any buyers who are willing to trust you, then at least you don't have to worry about going into craigslist or ebay.

I got a used H50 for $40shipped a few days ago, so I shall be joining this club once my mobo comes back from RMA!


----------



## [email protected]

Nice to know! I will post pics! I wish i had a new case i would like to mount this in a better place cuz i hate the gap between my case side panel.

Sorry pic is a lil dark and i will have nicer cable management. Cable management is still nice anyways. This is a temp power supply i have used for a year. Waiting on my Corsair 650 then i will order extension sleeves









H70 temps are incredibly amazing on my i5!



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## WigglesTheHoly

on the h70's is there a way to disconnect the tubes so you could run them through ports on your case like the Haf 932's back plate with the rubber grommets?


----------



## DyingCrow

Those holes seem to be thought for custom built/mod loops, where the rad would be placed outside while putting everything together. Mind that if you disassemble your H, youll never get it to work properly as it was.


----------



## Xristo

yep those gromets are for custom waterloops with extended hoses for the rad to sit on the outside , the only way to get off the hoses is to cut them off and if u do that ur gunna risk leakage inside your case . Unlesss you go buy aftermarket tubing and reseal it all properly etccc . Theres a few guides on how to do so .


----------



## alancsalt

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...tubes-h50.html

Guide to fitting tubes to H50/70


----------



## NvidiaXFX

what do u h50/h70 fans think of this setup??
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/5244695575/


----------



## KoukiFC3S

Hmm just installed my H70. Push fan is a gentle typhoon and pull fan is a cooler master red led. 
At 1.24v 3.7GHz, my load is 71C. Seems high?


----------



## test tube

My H70 is still sucking too... Remounted with OCZ freeze and the temps are still the same as for my hyper 212+

I kind of want my money back...


----------



## [email protected]

Maybe you're not doing it right.


----------



## test tube

I don't think so... I even tried putting the rad outside the case and it's still doing a piss poor job of cooling

Aside from new fans and a lap I don't know what to do


----------



## Xristo

Everyone loves pics =)

-->push-->shroud-->rad-->pull ^exhaust








Blowing cool air onto my 5850 and kingston ram
























Notice my thermometer =D i also switched around the bottom rear exhaust fan so the h50 wont be sucking up the warm air it dumps . No warm air dumps at the rear besides the PSU at the bottom which stays pretty cool anyhow
















My desk =D logitech wireless gamepad FTW!! Goes hard on street fighter IV and NFS hot pursuit









Does anyone think my hoses are too bent ??


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *test tube*


My H70 is still sucking too... Remounted with OCZ freeze and the temps are still the same as for my hyper 212+

I kind of want my money back...


Yeah you have done something wrong , H70 is bigger and better than the h50 theres no reason to have bad temps unless you havent seated the pump correctly or applied the tim according to the instructions. Even a h50 should easily cool down your cpu under 4Ghz ..Im using a h50 on my i7 and at 4.2Ghz i never see over 65c during daily use and ur chip should run much cooler using a h70. You could go get your money back but that aint going to achieve anything ? ur h70 is capable of more than u think ..all it needs is a nice fan combo in push pull , some good thermal paste and mounting it where its gonna get cool air. you cant just shove it in there somewhere with one fan , not mounted to the cpu properly and sucking in warm air and then complain u want ur money back :s .... Mine runs great i dont regret buying it for 1 second , iv been playing around with my setup for months to get my temps moving here and there , changing the thermal paste , Changed the fans , mounting the waterblock as tight as i can and it all made a difference.

I put money on its not making contact with ur cpu 100% so its spiking , or your case has **** airflow.


----------



## alancsalt

Can also be in the doing up of the screws evenly, not one at a time, and/or locating the pump properly under the clamping ring. Also comes with a bit much tim; good tim, but a bit too much.


----------



## eloverton2

imo, give it a few days. do a few stress tests, power cycles, let the tim cure. the tim on the h50/h70 is thick, you're temps should get better with time. if they dont improve in a couple of days, then take it off, try new tim and a reseat.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eloverton2*


imo, give it a few days. do a few stress tests, power cycles, let the tim cure. the tim on the h50/h70 is thick, you're temps should get better with time. if they dont improve in a couple of days, then take it off, try new tim and a reseat.


The stock TIM is horrid , that should be the first thing that gets changed . There is wayyyy tooo muchh ... for intel cpu's anyway .


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


The stock TIM is horrid , that should be the first thing that gets changed . There is wayyyy tooo muchh ... for intel cpu's anyway .


From page 1:

Quote:



Originally Posted by Killhouse
The stock piece of thermal tape on the back of the H50 is Shin Etsu, this is a very good TIM (Thermal Interface Material) and normally ranks above your normal cheaper candidates (MX3 or AS5). Of course, the tape on the H50 is no use if you've used it already and need to reseat the H50. Most people just use AS5 or MX3, myself included, because it's cheap and can be used many times - both these thermal pastes have a curing time so you may think that your results are terrible when you first apply, give it some time. If you want to get the same thermal paste you want to look for Shin Etsu, it's normally harder to find and more expensive but will probably yield slightly better temperatures - it also has no curing time. Results and comparisons vary a lot, but if you want to improve on Shin Etsu one option could be IC Diamond 7. Again, it's hard to find and more expensive but you may find that it performs better than anything previously mentioned. Shin Etsu and ICD7 are very close in performance and different reviews will tell you that Shin Etsu is better. Of the many members in this post and on the Corsair forums nobody has tried using Indigo extreme on an H50, although I believe that the latest batch of products from Indigo would be compatible with the hot-plate style of the H50. If your stock thermal paste has run out, then the cheap alternatives are AS5 and MX3, the expensive replacements would be Shin Etsu (the same stuff which you get in the first place) or ICD7.


----------



## DyingCrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KoukiFC3S*


Hmm just installed my H70. Push fan is a gentle typhoon and pull fan is a cooler master red led. 
At 1.24v 3.7GHz, my load is 71C. Seems high?


It does seem a bit high. Suppose youre using 4 fans, right?
try testing all the fans side by side, match those that have the highest output and use those. Also, try reseating the plate again, loosen all screws a bit and go bout 1 turn each screw in x. Worked for me. If youre careful enough you wont need to use new goo.

When you measure temps, make sure its core temps, not die temps. I trust Real Temp since it reports the highest temps of everything else i tried. I dont really wanna go to throttle point to see how accurate it is tho


----------



## DyingCrow

I just kinda feel like saying this, but for whoever is getting high temps in first try and posting about it, its easy to see you just lost your virginity in custom cooling







weve all been there








If you got an H50 or H70 with overclocking in mind, youll have to read a lot and try a lot. Make it days, not hours, untill you find the right setup. Its always a work in progress, and its a very rewarding learning experience.

Im pretty happy with a 70 so buks cooler to get 4.2 from my i950, i did my homework and knew what i was getting. And i sure did.
We just have to do it right.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DyingCrow*










I just kinda feel like saying this, but for whoever is getting high temps in first try and posting about it, its easy to see you just lost your virginity in custom cooling







weve all been there








If you got an H50 or H70 with overclocking in mind, youll have to read a lot and try a lot. Make it days, not hours, untill you find the right setup. Its always a work in progress, and its a very rewarding learning experience.

Im pretty happy with a 70 so buks cooler to get 4.2 from my i950, i did my homework and knew what i was getting. And i sure did.
We just have to do it right.


Thats right


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eloverton2*


From page 1:


I dont know what makes it "better" but i got better results using as5 . The heat spreader on the intel cpu's is only the size of ur thumb nail why would you need a whole pad thats bigger in diametre than the cpu . And once you take it off its useless anyway . A thin vertical line in the middle of the cpu is enough , and as for cheap its $15 for as5 here id hate to try the $1 ones. As5 is really good imo , if i ever do run into something different i might try it but i wont expect anything out of it .


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


Everyone loves pics =)

-->push-->shroud-->rad-->pull ^exhaust








Blowing cool air onto my 5850 and kingston ram
























Notice my thermometer =D i also switched around the bottom rear exhaust fan so the h50 wont be sucking up the warm air it dumps . No warm air dumps at the rear besides the PSU at the bottom which stays pretty cool anyhow
















My desk =D logitech wireless gamepad FTW!! Goes hard on street fighter IV and NFS hot pursuit









Does anyone think my hoses are too bent ??



No the hoses are fine. PLEASE tell me how did you managed to get your whole side panel to fit ?! i only got a top gap open because the rad is too thick or maybe the screws aren't lined up. Man i'm so mad and i don't understand how or why you can fit the rad there. Maybe i should change to smaller fans so it fits?

Unless you are the same as mine.. top has a little gap and i only can screw the bottom. You know that case has holes for cable management? It's easy.


----------



## Xristo

everything fits perfectly ? the side panel fits on like its supposed to with both screws in .I dunno whats stopping you man .. If you upped some pics we might be able to work out something ?

my cable mangament is alright , the psu i have is not designed for this case and the motherboard power wire is extremely short and i have to literally stretch it to fit .. Until i get a modular psu its fine . But i dont even need one really .. Can u buy extensions for the 24pin


----------



## Ivan TSI

Hi, i have a problem with my H50, my idle temp is 47C, i have tried to re-seat it like 10 times or so and get the same result, my ambients are ~30C and is in Push>Shroud>Rad>Pull set up with 2 GT AP15, pump and fans are @ max and i have been using Shin-etsu for the TIM, any good tips on how to instal or apply TIM are appreciated.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI*


Hi, i have a problem with my H50, my idle temp is 47C, i have tried to re-seat it like 10 times or so and get the same result, my ambients are ~30C and is in Push>Shroud>Rad>Pull set up with 2 GT AP15, pump and fans are @ max and i have been using Shin-etsu for the TIM, any good tips on how to instal or apply TIM are appreciated.


I don't use Intel anymore but from the many posts on this thread from Intel users that looks pretty normal to me. With an ambient of 30C that's very warm to begin with so I wouldn't think that 47C is very warm. Even with a full water loop you are at the mercy of your ambient temps.

Have to consider in the end also that idle temps really don't matter at all. Download and use a program like Prime95 and check your full load temps before you ever worry about idle temps. If your idle temp was near max temp then I would worry but not like you are even close. If I remember right the absolute max you want to run an I7 at is 100C so if you can stay around 80C at max load that should be a good stable 24/7 setup.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI*


Hi, i have a problem with my H50, my idle temp is 47C, i have tried to re-seat it like 10 times or so and get the same result, my ambients are ~30C and is in Push>Shroud>Rad>Pull set up with 2 GT AP15, pump and fans are @ max and i have been using Shin-etsu for the TIM, any good tips on how to instal or apply TIM are appreciated.


What speed is this at ? stock settings or overclocked . High either way ...30c ambients wont help , on a cool day you should idle in the high 30's . Okay if your overclocked but under stock conditions the temps should be heaps lower.


----------



## [email protected]

Judging from the pictures it does look like MAYBE the fans in my case are making it too big to fit everything? I'll have to do some pictures tomorrow and maybe you can help me why or what's going on. Thanks!


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
I don't use Intel anymore but from the many posts on this thread from Intel users that looks pretty normal to me. With an ambient of 30C that's very warm to begin with so I wouldn't think that 47C is very warm. Even with a full water loop you are at the mercy of your ambient temps.

Have to consider in the end also that idle temps really don't matter at all. Download and use a program like Prime95 and check your full load temps before you ever worry about idle temps. If your idle temp was near max temp then I would worry but not like you are even close. If I remember right the absolute max you want to run an I7 at is 100C so if you can stay around 80C at max load that should be a good stable 24/7 setup.

Well stock during Prime95 i get 75 on 1 core and low 70's on the others, while overclocked @4ghz with 1.21v i get 83 on the hottest core and 79-80 on the others.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI* 
Well stock during Prime95 i get 75 on 1 core and low 70's on the others, while overclocked @4ghz with 1.21v i get 83 on the hottest core and 79-80 on the others.

When you factor in your ambient those seem like reasonable temps still to me at least. If you take off 8C(if you had normal 22C ambient) 62-75C seem about right to me.


----------



## Kokin

So I was wondering what size screws I should get for the push/shroud side with a Push>Shroud>Rad>Pull setup? It's 6/32" x 1 & 1/4" screws for the stock screws, if I've researched correctly. So if I add a 25mm shroud, it should just be an addition inch, so the size I'm looking for is 6/32" x 2 & 1/4" right?

Also I'll be putting it in the top rear of my Antec 902 as an intake, since the rear of my pc is right next to my window, meaning direct cold winter air will be coming into the radiator and hot air will be exhausting out the top 200mm fan. I'm planning to use two of my Yate Loon High Speeds as the push/pull fans, so is it possible to move that rear tri-cool fan onto my side panel fan slot?


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Carfanatic* 
When you factor in your ambient those seem like reasonable temps still to me at least. If you take off 8C(if you had normal 22C ambient) 62-75C seem about right to me.

Maybe you are right but i want to try some more to see if i can get a bit lower temps, maybe im doing something wrong whean seating it or applying TIM , just want to try, if not im thinking in going with a RASA kit since i want to get at least high 70's @4.2 or 4.3 ghz(with HT enabled) and i know the chip is ca[pable is the temps that are holding me back.


----------



## eloverton2

yep. they have them at lowes labeled machine screws 6-32 threads


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eloverton2* 
yep. they have them at lowes labeled machine screws 6-32 threads

Awesome, but for the fan+shroud side, it's gonna need 2.25" length vs the standard 1.25" lenth?


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kokin* 
Awesome, but for the fan+shroud side, it's gonna need 2.25" length vs the standard 1.25" lenth?

uhh... its probably 2 1/8" 54mm = 2.125"


----------



## Bobehud

As per my sig i have a 955c3 at 3.95 1.475v-CPU NB 2850 1.475v-Ram 5-5-5-18 2.0v and i can give any other info that makes a difference.
I am now in a CM 690 II Advanced case with the H70 having a pair of Sytche Ultra K 3K's 133cfm fans in a push pull.Intake has a 24mm shroud built from an old 120mm fan and im drawing cool air into the case__yes i know but doing this way dropped load temps 4c__Also both the Corsair and the CPU have been lapped with 1000 grit wet/dri until perfectly flat and have a mirror finish.Used MX3 tim.Also both bridges on the board were removed lapped flat and reinstalled again using MX3.

Im trying to find what kind of load temps others are getting with their H70's and/or H50's.I have worked hard on cable management and setting the case for the best airflow.My room temp is aprox 75f.

I will share my temps as soon as i get a little feedback i want to see if all my efforts to make a simple enclosed WC system has gotten close to some of the WC kits i have read reviews on.Im am using Prime Blend and Max temp.Along with OCCT for a 2 hour run.

Thanks for any input.


----------



## ghost_recon88

I am gonna install an H50 in a Silverstone SG05 case, and I'm using an optical drive as well. I hear I can mount the rad if I drill holes to lower it down so it will clear the optical drive. However I'm only able to use one fan so I know I want the air blowing out in an exhaust setup. However, do I want the fan between the H50 and the case wall, or behind the rad closer to the CPU?


----------



## DyingCrow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI* 
Maybe you are right but i want to try some more to see if i can get a bit lower temps, maybe im doing something wrong whean seating it or applying TIM , just want to try, if not im thinking in going with a RASA kit since i want to get at least high 70's @4.2 or 4.3 ghz(with HT enabled) and i know the chip is ca[pable is the temps that are holding me back.

If you have a portable fan, you can try using it to blow air inside to simulate a colder environment (maybe even make it permanent if you can live with the dust and the noise







) im pretty sure core temps will go down.

Dont bother that much about idle temps. Since theyre just like spring weather for the cpu, Intel didnt bother making the DTS accurate for low temperatures, so it can be anything from 30 to 45. Its the stress temps that count.


----------



## DyingCrow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ghost_recon88* 
I am gonna install an H50 in a Silverstone SG05 case, and I'm using an optical drive as well. I hear I can mount the rad if I drill holes to lower it down so it will clear the optical drive. However I'm only able to use one fan so I know I want the air blowing out in an exhaust setup. However, do I want the fan between the H50 and the case wall, or behind the rad closer to the CPU?

Sandwich the rad between the fan and the case. But even if you cant fit 2 fans and the rad inside the case, youll still benefit from mounting a second fan outside pulling.


----------



## ghost_recon88

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DyingCrow* 
Sandwich the rad between the fan and the case. But even if you cant fit 2 fans and the rad inside the case, youll still benefit from mounting a second fan outside pulling.

I'm pretty sure I can only fit one fan in there, you think I can fit two though? With an optical drive in there? and a 3.5" HDD?


----------



## DyingCrow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ghost_recon88* 
I'm pretty sure I can only fit one fan in there, you think I can fit two though? With an optical drive in there? and a 3.5" HDD?

Have a







and get creative


----------



## rup3t

This is what happened when I tried to OC my CPU to 3.7GHz. The temps actually climbed higher after the pic was taken.


----------



## DyingCrow

Try working with a multi of 21x instead, and raise BCLK to 165, thats 3465, you should be able to do it with about 1.27v. Keep QPI/Dram a bit higher to help stability. Your cooling is not adequate and youre reaching dangerous temps, id say if you top it at 80 it would be so so fine, but dont keep it like that. try something that tops at 75c to be on the safe side.


----------



## reaper~

A few updates. Switched to R3F mobo, new CPU, mount the H70 on the back with one fan outside the case, etc. 2 x GTX570s are coming (I'm on their step-up waiting list lol).










External mounted fan:










Temps are great using AC MX-4. Btw, those fans are Scythe's GT B6AZ-00 2150RPM.


----------



## [email protected]

Man i'm jealous of your sleeves


----------



## reaper~

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


Man i'm jealous of your sleeves










Heh, thanks!







And check your PM.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reaper~*


Btw, those fans are Scythe's GT B6AZ-00 2150RPM.










Where did you get the GT 2150rpm fans? I been on a waiting list for a long time to be notified when they are even being released for corporate purchase and still haven't heard anything yet.


----------



## [email protected]

Does anyone know what cfm those two fans blow at? The ones that come with H70?


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


Does anyone know what cfm those two fans blow at? The ones that come with H70?


Supposed to be about 61cfm according to the website.


----------



## reaper~

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Where did you get the GT 2150rpm fans? I been on a waiting list for a long time to be notified when they are even being released for corporate purchase and still haven't heard anything yet.


I bought them direct from Nidec (Japan). Check out my thread here for more info and pics (pics are a few pages in).







Also I don't know if you guys know, Scythe will be selling these higher RPM fans here soon.


----------



## Maxxa

Pics in Sig
PHII x 4 @ 4.0Ghz, 236.8 FSBx17 @ 1.55V
H70 stock TIM Push/Pull Resistors ON
Idle 29c
Load Stress 44c
Load Games 35c

Shellshocker Deal couple months ago $74.99cdn and $10 MIR Free Shipping

Win Win Win


----------



## Ivan TSI

Update:
Dropped HT to see how much it helped, right now it on its 6th hour on Prime 95 and max Load temp is 79C-77C-77C-75C, that is overclocked @ 4ghz with 1.21v, already completed 20 passes of Linx with a max temp of 83C-80C-80C-78C.

That's on a H50 (push>shroud>rad>pull) with a pair of GT AP15's.
Still hearing tips on re-seating or TIM application that might help with the temps.Ambient here is ~30C.
Next test will be cleaning chip & h50 plate with Arctic Silver cleaner to see if it helps somehow, already tried Alcohol 70% and 99%.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI*


Update:
Dropped HT to see how much it helped, right now it on its 6th hour on Prime 95 and max Load temp is 79C-77C-77C-75C, that is overclocked @ 4ghz with 1.21v, already completed 20 passes of Linx with a max temp of 83C-80C-80C-78C.

That's on a H50 (push>shroud>rad>pull) with a pair of GT AP15's.
Still hearing tips on re-seating or TIM application that might help with the temps.Ambient here is ~30C.
Next test will be cleaning chip & h50 plate with Arctic Silver cleaner to see if it helps somehow, already tried Alcohol 70% and 99%.


I don't think those temps are bad at all considering your ambient temps. People have to remember the H50/70 is a good cooler but its not a miracle cooler. I was one of many who thought the H50 was going to drop my temps drastically over my good air cooler (Xiggy DK) but it didn't.


----------



## alancsalt

If your ambient is 30C-ish you are probably doing OK considering that. You can put HT back on if temps drop to 20C, and get roughly the same load temps......


----------



## DyingCrow

Heres some pics of my ugly thing.

This should go on Ripley's "believe it or not"- That small side fan is noisy as hell, but it alone drop temp about 5c just by sucking cold air to the push. I mean, its really really noisy. Unfortunately, it touched the Spot cool when putting the cover back after 2nd pic and insta broke a fin. Now its a vibrator. Good thing is that i have plenty more carcasses to salvage fans from at work











Spot cool moved from RAM cooler to blow some more air on the rad tube intake. Moved HD block up to improve air flow. Err, something like that. Its chaotic upstairs but not so much downstairs








Drop temps about 3 deg or so, if its maxed. Every bit helps.



Quick numbers.


----------



## Xristo

nice temps , you get a fraction lower than mine bcos ur using less voltage .. Mine need 1.408v to hold 4.2Ghz steady and max's out in the high 70's depending on the ambients.

But very good for a case with a million wires and a few tiny fans , well done .


----------



## terraprime

how come so many ppl buy this when temps arent that much different from air cooling and different cost in price? cause of the review I seen on tomshardware


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI* 
Update:
Dropped HT to see how much it helped, right now it on its 6th hour on Prime 95 and max Load temp is 79C-77C-77C-75C, that is overclocked @ 4ghz with 1.21v, already completed 20 passes of Linx with a max temp of 83C-80C-80C-78C.

That's on a H50 (push>shroud>rad>pull) with a pair of GT AP15's.
Still hearing tips on re-seating or TIM application that might help with the temps.Ambient here is ~30C.
*Next test will be cleaning chip & h50 plate with Arctic Silver cleaner to see if it helps somehow, already tried Alcohol 70% and 99%.*

That's really not going to do much for you unless you have old TIM you never cleaned off properly but you say you tried 99% isopropyl so I doubt that is the case. If anything I would say to lap your H50 at least...and your chip if you don't mind voiding the warranty..
Corsair will not void your warranty if you lap the H series's blocks however as they will not deny there is much improvement that could be made on them.

The flatter and smoother you get the less and less it matters how great you are at applying TIM. =)

Regardless, looks like you're doing well as is man, props on those temps for a relatively simple setup.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *terraprime* 
how come so many ppl buy this when temps arent that much different from air cooling and different cost in price? cause of the review I seen on tomshardware

Many people buy this for many reasons. Some(like myself) have always been intrigued by water cooling but weren't quite ready to go all out with a custom loop so this is a nice way to get your feet...wet. Some like how small the blocks are compared to the massive top end air cooling devices they stay competitive with. Some thinks logic dictates water < air no matter the reviews, and it's a hard fight to argue otherwise.
I'll bring up size again for all the small form factorerz with extremely small spaces to work with who, quite frankly, cannot get better cooling on air than the H series provides them. All these and more backed by a company with a long, proven dedication to customer satisfaction before *&* after they've got your money as well as an excellent track record containing a considerable number of products accepted to be very high quality in make, durability, and aesthetics and is there really any wonder left in the amount of sales these babies ignited?

Don't forget you've got those who see this ***omg giant thread and are persuaded by us to join us.....And your corsair fanatics who cannot abide another logo resting on top of their cpu when they aren't forced to....PLus random brick & mortar customers persuaded by salespeople and the word "New"......I'm sure I've only listed around 10-20% of the motives behind the sales so far but I'm tired and this would take way too long.^^


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *terraprime* 
how come so many ppl buy this when temps arent that much different from air cooling and different cost in price? cause of the review I seen on tomshardware

As mentioned above already if you buy a top of the line air cooler that would give the same temps as a H50/H70 you'll end up paying about the same price and many people do not have the space to even fit a huge air cooler in their case or have other problems like ram clearance issues. I have tried out many of the top air coolers to but, to match what I get with my H50 I would have to go with 3k rpm jet engines on an air cooler so not really worth it for me.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *terraprime* 
how come so many ppl buy this when temps arent that much different from air cooling and different cost in price? cause of the review I seen on tomshardware

Yep I agree with the above posters.

Although my Scythe Mugen 2 with 2x Yate Loon High Speed fans performs about on par with the H50, I really hate how big and bulky my SM2 is. It's the only part in my system that doesn't follow my blue/black theme, and blocks me from adding fans to my NB and RAM.

So I sold my SM2 for $30 (with a Yate fan and the stock fan) to a friend who is building a rig and bought a used H50 without fans for $40. I'm technically only spending $10 more and I'll get to open up a bunch of room in my case to add cooling to my NB and RAM, which is a win/win for me!


----------



## Xristo

Like slimbrady said , for a first time watercooling unit its nice , tidy , easy to install , doesnt leak and its easy to mod , lap , add a resoiver and maybe a bigger rad later on . Its pump is a pretty good base to work off after u know the ins and outs of the h50 u start modding to drop the temps more and people get good results , the h50\\70 have alot of potential u just need to tweak it to peak performance . I like my h50 its unique , iv seen to many heatsinks in my life time to move on .


----------



## Ragsters

I recently purchased 4 high speed Yates from Petra Tech. I installed 2 of them for a push/pull configuration with my H50. I am now getting worse temps then I did when I had the stock Corsair fan in pull configuration installed in my Silverstone FT02 case. Does anyone know how this is possible?


----------



## alancsalt

Don't know for sure, but two possibilities.
Is the fan motor area bigger and blade area smaller? If so a 25mm shroud might help by eliminating the "dead air" spot in front of the fan when close to the rad.

I'm not sure about this, but there's a rave about fin density and fan speed and matching them.

Possibilities anyway.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alancsalt* 
Don't know for sure, but two possibilities.
Is the fan motor area bigger and blade area smaller? If so a 25mm shroud might help by eliminating the "dead air" spot in front of the fan when close to the rad.

I'm not sure about this, but there's a rave about fin density and fan speed and matching them.

Possibilities anyway.

Although I see your point, I can't see how I can lose enough volume to warrant the 2-3 degree temp rise. I'm mean really I am using two high speed fans over one medium speed fan. Someone convince me to keep this configuration or I'm going back to the stock fan.


----------



## alancsalt

It's not what you'd expect is it. I'd prob go back if I encountered that.


----------



## [email protected]

Oh i also have a question.. is the pump 3pin suppose to be in a fan header plug or pwn plug? Cuz i have it in the Power CPU plug.

Maybe that's why i'm seeing a cpu fan error boot up at fresh start when i fire her up.

For a second i thought i'd need a bios update because this is a new set up but i can boot in windows fine. I'm just annoyed by that error and i have to press F1 to restart and it just boots me in Win 7.

I think it's fine anyways.


----------



## Robilar

You can disable the cpu fan sensor setting in the bios so as not to get this error on a recurring basis.


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


Oh i also have a question.. is the pump 3pin suppose to be in a fan header plug or pwn plug? Cuz i have it in the Power CPU plug.

Maybe that's why i'm seeing a cpu fan error boot up at fresh start when i fire her up.

For a second i thought i'd need a bios update because this is a new set up but i can boot in windows fine. I'm just annoyed by that error and i have to press F1 to restart and it just boots me in Win 7.

I think it's fine anyways.


id just plug the pump into the cpu fan header, and set the fan to 3 pin, 100% in bios, that way you can monitor to make sure its always running 1400 rpm


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


You can disable the cpu fan sensor setting in the bios so as not to get this error on a recurring basis.


Where exactly in settings would i find that?


----------



## [email protected]

Which is it?

SYSFANIN 1869RPM to 1917RPM

AUXFANIN0 1360RPM to 1383RPM

AUXFANIN1 1854RPM to 1875RPM

These are the fans that are running listed on my HWMonitor.
is the SYSFANIN the CPU fan header?


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


Here guys maybe you can tell me which is my pump fan in the HWMonitor?

Uploaded with ImageShack.us


AUXFAN0 is your pump, which runs at ~1300-1400RPM.

I don't know if the CPU fan shows in HWMonitor when it's not in use, as I don't use the program.

Also I love winter here :3 19-20C ambient temps = sexy H50 results







Running the PII X6 1090T @ 3.4Ghz + Turbo = 39C Prime95 load


----------



## [email protected]

That means my pump is not running a full 1400 isn't it?

yea winter is awesome my temps are beautiful too like yours except a few degrees more lower with the H70


----------



## slimbrady

Hey guys, just wanted to make sure everyone looking at upgrading or swapping out fans to be placed on a radiator see this thread as it is absolutely fantastic: CFM testing through radiator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


That means my pump is not running a full 1400 isn't it?

yea winter is awesome my temps are beautiful too like yours except a few degrees more lower with the H70











Nobody's pump actually runs right at 1400. Yours is performing normally.


----------



## [email protected]

Good to know.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


Where exactly in settings would i find that?


Here, on the Asus board, go into bios, go into power settings, and see the 3 slides below.

Set cpu fan speed to ignored.


----------



## [email protected]

Thank you very much, Hope my settings have those. Rep+

Oh right you're the moderator







lol.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ragsters*


I recently purchased 4 high speed Yates from Petra Tech. I installed 2 of them for a push/pull configuration with my H50. I am now getting worse temps then I did when I had the stock Corsair fan in pull configuration installed in my Silverstone FT02 case. Does anyone know how this is possible?


Thats not possible , i think you screwed it in crooked or something . Do you even know wat ur doing ? :s theres no way you would get better temps with the stock fan in push over high speed yate's and it defintaly should not increase unless you have done something majorly wrong .

You wont see huge drops in temps from other fans anyway maybe 1-3 degrees unless its ultra kaze uk3 or some other 38mm 3000 rpm bad boy.

I get the same temps with corsair fan in push as the noctua fan in push..If i change them around no temps decrease or increase. Iv tried it all mate .


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
Thats not possible , i think you screwed it in crooked or something . Do you even know wat ur doing ? :s theres no way you would get better temps with the stock fan in push over high speed yate's and it defintaly should not increase unless you have done something majorly wrong .

You wont see huge drops in temps from other fans anyway maybe 1-3 degrees unless its ultra kaze uk3 or some other 38mm 3000 rpm bad boy.

I get the same temps with corsair fan in push as the noctua fan in push..If i change them around no temps decrease or increase. Iv tried it all mate .

Ok guys so I was wrong. I ran 5 instances of LinX first using High Speed Yates in Push/Pull then using the stock Corsair Fan in Pull.

Max Temp Results (Yates):
Core 0: 53
Core 1: 52
Core 2: 55
Core 3: 54

Max Temp Results (Corsair):
Core 0: 54
Core 1: 53
Core 2: 56
Core 3: 56

As you can see guys that although the Yates yield better results, the difference is not worth the noise and extra equipment I have to use in the case.


----------



## Xristo

see only 1-2 degrees difference , but thats 2c off your load temps.


----------



## DyingCrow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
nice temps , you get a fraction lower than mine bcos ur using less voltage .. Mine need 1.408v to hold 4.2Ghz steady and max's out in the high 70's depending on the ambients.

But very good for a case with a million wires and a few tiny fans , well done .

These things are temperamental, its like getting a dog. No wonder we dedicate so much time taking care of it


----------



## DyingCrow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]* 
Oh i also have a question.. is the pump 3pin suppose to be in a fan header plug or pwn plug? Cuz i have it in the Power CPU plug.

Maybe that's why i'm seeing a cpu fan error boot up at fresh start when i fire her up.

For a second i thought i'd need a bios update because this is a new set up but i can boot in windows fine. I'm just annoyed by that error and i have to press F1 to restart and it just boots me in Win 7.

I think it's fine anyways.

3 pin pump in 3 pin, 4 pin fan in the cpu plug. You want the pump to be at 100% all the time.


----------



## DyingCrow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alancsalt* 
It's not what you'd expect is it. I'd prob go back if I encountered that.

You sure theyre blowing the right way?


----------



## DyingCrow

Breaks my heart to say this, but more noise equals more air. Theyre just electric fans. The noise comes from air displacement, so have another








PS: dont overclock while drinking. I just got to 4.6, and im kinda scratching my head why the CPU didnt throttle. Ive never gotten one burnt, but theres always a first time... id hate going back to my 6850.


----------



## terraprime

so if I got a H70 what mods would help it cool off better? As I have seen ppl putting dual and triple rads on them. Changing the tubing(idk how that would change performace), and adding a res.

Edit: So in other words @ stock its as good as the "BEST" Air Cooler, but if you mod it, then it can exceed the performance of that said Air Cooler, Right? Because I am so waiting to upgrade to sandy bridge unless bulldozer is really a "Bulldozer" to Sandy's little head lol.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *terraprime* 
so if I got a H70 what mods would help it cool off better? As I have seen ppl putting dual and triple rads on them. Changing the tubing(idk how that would change performace), and adding a res.

Edit: So in other words @ stock its as good as the "BEST" Air Cooler, but if you mod it, then it can exceed the performance of that said Air Cooler, Right? Because I am so waiting to upgrade to sandy bridge unless bulldozer is really a "Bulldozer" to Sandy's little head lol.

The best mods IMO is just fans. If you don't care about sound then you can go with a 3k+ rpm fans and get great cooling that no air cooler can keep up with. If you don't want it to be too loud then you can still get better fans and still be better than an air cooler because with the same fans an air cooler would be hotter.


----------



## Xristo

Im thinking about buying some ultra kaze uk3 next time i get paid off ebay $33 each is it worth it over the noctua ones im using ? should i expect drops in temperatures ? I get good temps with a good overclock but i dont feel the noctua fans have the power to cool it as good as it can be . I like the fact its 3000 rpm , i bet it can move alot of air .. ill use the noctua as case fans , they push a fair bit of air but i dunno if they go anything special on a radiator .

Idle temps 25c ambients are 40 , 39 , 39 , 38 .... Load is in the mid to high 70's with most stress tests i use , the computer is on all day everyday and it always stays roughly the same unless i have the aircon on i get 36c idle and low 70c load . Thats 4.2Ghz @ 1.41v , are these temperatures good enough ? i really want to keep in the 60's hence the reason why i want to get the uk3 .. i lapped my block and cpu but only roughly i didnt go mirror finish i think i might pull them out n polish them up and i wanna try reapplying the thermal paste again , im sure ill drop a few degrees in the process .


----------



## Bobehud

Thats what my H70 has is a pair of the Sycthe UK 3K's push/pull with the inlet having a shroud made from an old 120mm fan...load temps with 64bit Prime max temp have yet to exceed 46c.
Room temp is aprox 74-75f.


----------



## Xristo

amd run alot cooler , did you notice temp drop when u installed the uk3 ?


----------



## DJ4g63t

I swapped out my CM R4 for a Panaflo Ultra (120x38mm 114cfm @ 2750rpm both used a 25mm shroud) and it was maybe 2*C better than the R4's load temps but the noise of that Panaflo alone was unbearable at full speed and even at low speed it used to click. You have to remember that rad efficiency plays a role in how well it cools. When you start nearing its efficiency point or start overloading it with a lot of heat it won't matter how much air you push through it your cooling gains will be minimal at best.


----------



## Bobehud

it was worth about 6c for me and the noise is worth it to me.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bobehud*


it was worth about 6c for me and the noise is worth it to me.


Well I guess if your nearing the thermal limits of your cpu then sure it would be worth the noise but in my case my temps were never that bad to begin with so the extra noise for a measly 2*C drop wasn't worth it


----------



## moonslug

Hey guys! I ran into a little trouble when I installed my H70 yesterday. Here's some info crossposted from my thread in Air Cooling:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Moonslug*

I just finished building my rig and I've hit a problem with CPU temperatures. My i7 950 with an H70 cooler & 2x GentleTyphoon AP-15s pulling cool air over the rad in a push/pull setup hit 90 degrees Celsius in about 20 seconds when I bench with Prime95!







I quit the test immediately when Core Temp registered about 85 and climbing.

Obviously I screwed something up applying my H70. It idles fine at around 40 Celsius, and I played an hour and a half of Bad Company 2 with my 6870 Twin Frozr, and the highest I hit was about 65 iirc. Did anyone else have trouble applying the H70 with the Intel bracket? I had to loosen up the top side of the bracket so I could get enough clearance to actually fit the block on the processor and under the retaining clips, and then screw it back down again. Otherwise no matter how hard I pressed, I couldn't fit the waterblock clips underneath the clips on the retainer bracket! I'm gonna go pick up some new thermal paste today and try it again. Anyone have recommendations for paste?









Also, I hooked my GTs up to a fan controller, and I noticed it really makes no difference to my idle temps whether they're running full-on or as low as they can go. I can definitely feel a difference in airflow coming out of them, but my temps are in the low 40s regardless.


----------



## alancsalt

According to the instructions, that's what you are supposed to do. (Have the bracket loose enough to fit the block)

Then you have to make sure dents and notches match up correctly, and do the retaining screws up equally, a bit at a time for each, until tight. (Not one at a time...)

It is not idle temps that matter. It is load temps. It's a fussy mounting, lots of bits to assemble first too. There is a bit too much paste as supplied, even though it is good quality paste. Any good quality paste should be fine. I use MX3.

Some ppls seem to have to reseat them a few times before temps are satisfactory.


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *moonslug*


Hey guys! I ran into a little trouble when I installed my H70 yesterday. Here's some info crossposted from my thread in Air Cooling:


your temps shouldn't be that high at idle imo. have you tried a reseat? the easiest way i found to put on an h50/70 is to just barely start the screws enough that they hold the bracket on loosely, then put it in and tighten each corner one turn at a time in an x until its tight.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *moonslug* 
Hey guys! I ran into a little trouble when I installed my H70 yesterday. Here's some info crossposted from my thread in Air Cooling:

Is your cpu overclocked or stock ? if its stock speeds u defintaly have an issue but if its overclocked it sounds about right .. mine runs those temps at 4.2Ghz


----------



## [email protected]

I managed to line up my rad this time.. if you read previous posts i posted in few pages i had problems having my rad fit.. turns out the screws were not lined up and i'm so glad it didn't hit the fan rad fins. I got it to lined up.
The problem mostly was the fans There was a gap that's blocking me from fully sliding in my side panel to fit BOTH holes in.. They were too wide causing me not to be able to close the top of my side panel. But since i managed to line it up i can close it but the top is NOT fully CLOSED but better than last time.

Cuz the last time i had it installed the screws were hitting the metal thing not the hole.

The fans that hold these are the only way to make it fit i would need smaller fans. Blah. Thinner fans. I don't have time for that and it fits for now. Maybe one day i'll consider getting a new different tower. I wonder if the Dark Fleet is any good. I always wanted a HAF case but meh..


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]* 
I managed to line up my rad this time.. if you read previous posts i posted in few pages i had problems having my rad fit.. turns out the screws were not lined up and i'm so glad it didn't hit the fan rad fins. I got it to lined up.
The problem mostly was the fans There was a gap that's blocking me from fully sliding in my side panel to fit BOTH holes in.. They were too wide causing me not to be able to close the top of my side panel. But since i managed to line it up i can close it but the top is NOT fully CLOSED but better than last time.

Cuz the last time i had it installed the screws were hitting the metal thing not the hole.

The fans that hold these are the only way to make it fit i would need smaller fans. Blah. Thinner fans. I don't have time for that and it fits for now. Maybe one day i'll consider getting a new different tower. I wonder if the Dark Fleet is any good. I always wanted a HAF case but meh..

antec 1200 ftw i dont know what case you think is going to be better , glad u got it in finally but . I dont know how the fans are giving you problems with lining up the holes .. What fans u using ? im still scractching my head as to why you cant get it all in 100% it fits for me... does your mobo have any heatsinks that are in the way of the rad and fans? mine has a little gigabyte heatsink on the side of my rad but its like 2cm off touching it.

If you want to fix it 100% throw some pics up of the problem areas and we might be able to help u out .


----------



## [email protected]

It's the fans man.. i'm running the regular antec fan and master cooler on the front as a pull in air to exhaust. I did experiemented and realized a smaller fan makes everything fit easier and gap is so away from the side panel but unfortunately i rather use the case's fan and the master cooler fan.

It's gotta be the fans. They wouldn't line up the holes when i attach them cuz they are by an 1/2 inch off lining up.

I wish there is a three way switch for those fans like the antec on the rear exhaust i have so i can slide it in the box next to it to adjust fan speed or i'll have to find really good fans that thin like the H70 had and use it but meh.. it's fine for now.

Maybe down the road i'll change fans and it'll be fine.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]* 
It's the fans man.. i'm running the regular antec fan and master cooler on the front as a pull in air to exhaust. I did experiemented and realized a smaller fan makes everything fit easier and gap is so away from the side panel but unfortunately i rather use the case's fan and the master cooler fan.

It's gotta be the fans. They wouldn't line up the holes when i attach them cuz they are by an 1/2 inch off lining up.

I wish there is a three way switch for those fans like the antec on the rear exhaust i have so i can slide it in the box next to it to adjust fan speed or i'll have to find really good fans that thin like the H70 had and use it but meh.. it's fine for now.

Maybe down the road i'll change fans and it'll be fine.

Your issue is truly strange. I was able to mount my H50 to the rear of my 902 without any problems. I am using 2 Yate Loon Highs on the H50 and moved the rear Antec Tricool to my side panel. I was still able to put my side panel on though.


----------



## [email protected]

See what i mean? Your YATE Loons are thin. The fans are smaller dude. The Antec tri fans are not. I rather not use the fans the H70 came with cuz i like a higher cfm that's why and that's the problem.. not strange at all. read again.


----------



## [email protected]$r1g

Hi mates

I recently bought an H70 ,was happy for some days as my exams were going on for 8days.In-between got time & mounted H70 replacing Venomous-X ,i never really checked temps those 8days.Exams were over & the temps are same as Venomous-X man ,this is really crap.It was already decided that I will lap my 950 when the prices fell ,so i lapped my 950 & now again checked there was just 1-2c difference.My ambient temps are 20-22c ,yes its winter here & the temps on my 950 with h70 are not going down







.

I really like to bench my 950 at 4.6ghz with HT on & the temps with that setting were 90-94c with Venomous-x ,like 1 month back & now h70 is performing like crap the temps reached 100c all cores







.

Now the idle temps are 36-41c between all cores and ambient 22-24c.

Help me out mates.What should be done now?


----------



## Xristo

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...T&SUBCATID=531

I found this fan at jaycar its 3000rpm , anyone know anything about it ?? would they be good to use on a radiator

probably be too loud , 42db :s i think the s12b im using is 18


----------



## alancsalt

Isn't anything with balls a bit noisier?

Anyway, noise ratings are not usually all that honest... You could check if it's in Martins fan thread...


----------



## Bobehud

Once you sit here next to the pair of UK's you get used to it,but when you wake it up and everything comes on line THEN you notice it...BUT..im willing to trade some noise for 44c max Prime load temps.
But that also includes lapping both the Corsair contact surface and the 955 until they FLAT..and looked like mirrors,polished them and then used MX3.
Im sure its all of it together.Also a few hundred restarts to get the last bit of speed at the very best temp.
Listen honest admission wife hates the damn noise and is forever closing the door to my man cave room...If you don't have the TV fired up you can hear the damn thing sitting on the couch two rooms away.BUT it keeps things cool and with the case CM has filters every where so its not bad to keep clean.


----------



## Xristo

yeah i was watching youtube vids of the uk3 last night , one of the vids went through the whole rpm range @ 2900 rpm it looked like it was going to take off . Coming to think of it i sit literally right next to my computer and those things would be annoyingly loud compared the noctua's im using they are really really quiet after seeing all these other fans.. if you turn down the x6 antec tri fans in my case u struggle to even hear the noctuas in push pull =) i think adding a shroud to the push side helped quiet it down abit too and i have a feeling u would easily hear the uk3's over the 11 case fans which would suck . 3000 rpm fans are amazing but you gotta put up with jet engines in ur case , id love to just to try a pair of uk3 and test them out on my rad b4 buying them.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]* 
See what i mean? Your YATE Loons are thin. The fans are smaller dude. The Antec tri fans are not. I rather not use the fans the H70 came with cuz i like a higher cfm that's why and that's the problem.. not strange at all. read again.

I put the Tricool fan side to side with my Yate and they look about the same length, width, thickness-wise. I'll try mounting my H50 with the tricool and see if I encounter the same problems. I'll post up pictures too since I don't want to study for finals right now, but have nothing to do.


----------



## [email protected]

Yea let me know how it goes. You'll probably see why i couldn't line them up in the first place. I had to put screws in the rear first and hold the fan and carefully attach the rad on without denting the rad fins and i got it to line up but my god..

it was hard because the fan was refusing to line up so i had to push the rad against the fan.. at least i paid attention to the hole to line up and get screwed in. Sorry my grammar sucks lol.

But yea the fans were thick causing my rad sticking a bit out on the edge of the Antec 1200 side panel top. I can attach the door on but cannot screw the top hole. Plus i am using Master Cooler fan as a pull intake into my fan to Antec Tri fans as exhaust.

Let me know how it goes! Pics maybe?


----------



## Kokin

Hmm I didn't see any problems at all. Maybe you're mounting something differently than I am?

Here are the pictures taken with my phone:

*Yate Loons on the rad with the Tricool side by side with the Yate:
*Note that the Tricool is not longer than the Yate, it was just the angle of the picture**









*Here is the Yate on top of the Tricool and both are 120mmx120mm in LengthxWidth, lined them up using the screws:*









*Yate on the left with the Tricool on the Right, both are the same thickness (25mm):*









*This is the H50 with both Yates attached to the rear of my 902:*








*
As you can see, the hole in the backside of the side panel matches with the hole on the rear side of the 902:*









*Here is the Tricool held up with the screws and my hand:*









*Tricool mounted on the rad:*









*Again, the holes match up but with the Tricool mounted:*


----------



## Xristo

Nice post man , now pwnt4life u know it aint the fans that are causing u issues with closing the case . Thats how mine sits exactly , throw some pics up of ur case and setup please.

btw those antec tri cool fans are horribly loud , at full speed it has an annoying buzz noise that plays with my head i would never use them on a rad , especially on the back on the antec cases it has its own grill and when it sucks air through those little holes it makes an annoying noise if your pulling air through into the case , its fine as exhaust though . My noctua's dont make a noise at all , intake or exhaust it even flows more air and is twice as quiet .. i really love these fans .


----------



## desent

proud h70 owner... put me on the list.


----------



## [email protected]

I ain't worried about the noise and i'm hearing impaired lol.

That is strange.. how you can line it up..

I'm using a Antec 1200 and i'm using a H70 now though.

I'm gonna have to throw some pictures up. Damn..

I know it's the fans man..


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *desent* 
proud h70 owner... put me on the list.

Welcome


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kokin* 
Hmm I didn't see any problems at all. Maybe you're mounting something differently than I am?

Here are the pictures taken with my phone:

*Yate Loons on the rad with the Tricool side by side with the Yate:
*Note that the Tricool is not longer than the Yate, it was just the angle of the picture**









*Here is the Yate on top of the Tricool and both are 120mmx120mm in LengthxWidth, lined them up using the screws:*









*Yate on the left with the Tricool on the Right, both are the same thickness (25mm):*









*This is the H50 with both Yates attached to the rear of my 902:*








*
As you can see, the hole in the backside of the side panel matches with the hole on the rear side of the 902:*









*Here is the Tricool held up with the screws and my hand:*









*Tricool mounted on the rad:*









*Again, the holes match up but with the Tricool mounted:*










Another thing i noticed.. you're using Antec 902.
Mines a 1200. Maybe more different than you expect?


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]* 
I ain't worried about the noise and i'm hearing impaired lol.

That is strange.. how you can line it up..

I'm using a Antec 1200 and i'm using a H70 now though.

I'm gonna have to throw some pictures up. Damn..

I know it's the fans man..

If ur hearing impaired , get some uk3 =D jks man . Pics would be good , im curious why the case wont close for you ? id get some new fans over the antec ones u will get better results and it may fix ur problems . try noctua s12p they are supposed to be a good fan for a rad i was reading compared to the s12b i got cos they produce more static pressure .. i didnt read up on them b4 i purchased otherwise i woulda went s12p . Iv had multiple cases , never had a problem lining up holes ever .. ur case is weird lol i feel sorry for u dude . It sucks when u try hard and u cant get it 100%


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]* 
Another thing i noticed.. you're using Antec 902.
Mines a 1200. Maybe more different than you expect?


They wouldnt be that much different , width wise ..


----------



## [email protected]

Actually it is.. you got a mid tower so it's designed to be in the middle.. mine is upper rear exhaust and it's close to the top fan of the area. There is a small gap preventing things but i can still fit the H70 and trust me as soon i tried to line up my fans i can see the holes just being a half inch away from not lining up.

It has to be the fans. I will take some pics and show you how much gap i got on the side of it.

Has to be the fans and the case. I really don't wanna take it apart again and fix it cuz it was a headache and at least it's up there and fine.

I just wish i can screw in the top side panel hole but no.

I'll have to figure this out eventually.


----------



## Xristo

yes its a shame to have such a butiful case left without screws =p , i still dont get it man i have the same case as you and iv shown u plenty of pics of it sitting up there perfectly . I still dont think its ur fans , if the screws dont line up for the fans then they wont line up to the rad and that just sounds like a headache and it just wont fit ..

If u have the h70 on the top rear exhaust with the hoses at the bottom of the rad ( not the top ) it should all line up and bolt in perfectly if the h70 is infact the same size in diametre as the h50 which it is it holds 120mm its basically the same just a thicker rad and by just looking into my case i can tell a h70 will fit with no probs . U will be a few mm's off hitting the top exhaust fan but it wont hit , well it doesnt hit mine . CONFUSIONN!!! did u try taking out the top exhahst fan when installing ? not necisarry but in ur case it might help ?


----------



## [email protected]$r1g

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]$r1g* 
Hi mates

I recently bought an H70 ,was happy for some days as my exams were going on for 8days.In-between got time & mounted H70 replacing Venomous-X ,i never really checked temps those 8days.Exams were over & the temps are same as Venomous-X man ,this is really crap.It was already decided that I will lap my 950 when the prices fell ,so i lapped my 950 & now again checked there was just 1-2c difference.My ambient temps are 20-22c ,yes its winter here & the temps on my 950 with h70 are not going down







.

I really like to bench my 950 at 4.6ghz with HT on & the temps with that setting were 90-94c with Venomous-x ,like 1 month back & now h70 is performing like crap the temps reached 100c all cores







.

Now the idle temps are 36-41c between all cores and ambient 22-24c.

Help me out mates.What should be done now?


















So no ones interested ... OK no problem i will myself make it Thanks.


----------



## Xristo

I just took these right now , lines up fine .


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]$r1g* 
So no ones interested ... OK no problem i will myself make it Thanks.

hey dude , 4.6Ghz ? i doubt you will cool down any i7 at those speeds with a h70 unless its heavily modified , 3k rpm fans etc

what thermal paste r u using ? if your getting 100 degrees im guessing your pump isnt making 100% contact with your cpu so its spiking to 100c . Besides that 4.6Ghz is just a rediculous idea with any H series hydro cooler .. You would need a custom watercooling loop and a bigger radiator and a few powerful fans to get under 80 degree load @ 4.6ghz with H/T on ... U might be lucky with H/T off who knows.

Thats my opinion anyway , drop it back down to 4.2Ghz and you will be fine . Mine would do the same thing if i push it to 4.4Ghz i get in high 80's load. not worth it for 200mhz


----------



## AK-47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Maxxa* 
Pics in Sig
PHII x 4 @ 4.0Ghz, 236.8 FSBx17 @ 1.55V
H70 stock TIM Push/Pull Resistors ON
Idle 29c
Load Stress 44c
Load Games 35c


Why do my temps suck compared to yours?
not sure what you mean by resistors
But at any rate my vcore is set at 1.6 but drops to 1.456 under load and 1.536 on idle because my mobo sucks and has MASSIVE vdrop
but under load my vcore is lower than yours and when running intel burn test i'm reaching 62 63 C which leaves me no room to oc my nb
I've reseated twice and i am now out of shin etsu


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]$r1g* 
So no ones interested ... OK no problem i will myself make it Thanks.

Totally would have helped you out if I had an i7. Though I would have at least waited a few days before complaining about no one helping you. Being the weekend, not everyone is going to spend their free time on OCN.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AK-47* 
Why do my temps suck compared to yours?
not sure what you mean by resistors
But at any rate my vcore is set at 1.6 but drops to 1.456 under load and 1.536 on idle because my mobo sucks and has MASSIVE vdrop
but under load my vcore is lower than yours and when running intel burn test i'm reaching 62 63 C which leaves me no room to oc my nb
I've reseated twice and i am now out of shin etsu

By resistors he means the resistor cables that came in the box.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kokin* 
Totally would have helped you out if I had an i7. Though I would have at least waited a few days before complaining about no one helping you. Being the weekend, not everyone is going to spend their free time on OCN.

Thats true , also alot of people post in here 1528 pages .. and even my posts get skipped sometimes .. Just wait a day or two and if no1 reply's just repost ..its not intentional dw.


----------



## AK-47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kokin* 
By resistors he means the resistor cables that came in the box.










LOL I thought those were extenders


----------



## Kokin

I'll be mounting the H50 in a few days when my motherboard comes back from RMA and I've got a few questions for you guys.

The person I bought the H50 from included a tube of Gelid GC-Extreme. From the reviews I've read, the GC-Extreme performs somewhere between MX-2 and MX-3. Instructions also say to spread it out instead of simply putting a dot-sized blob in the middle. Should I be doing as it says or go with the dot in the middle method?

I also have a tube of Arctic Silver 5, would that be better for the H50? Though I'd prefer the GC-Extreme because it performs better by 1-2C and has no curing time.


----------



## Xristo

So overclocked my cpu idles exactly 15 degress above ambient temp , 25c ambient 40 , 39 , 39 , 38 idle . does this sound right ? also i found something quite weird .. max temps today during normal use for a few hrs are 57 , 59 , 56 , 60 and thats in order cores 0-4 . Correct me if i am wrong but isnt core 0-1 supposed to get the hottest and it sits lower on cores 3&4 ? did i apply the TIM wrong ? i cbf pulling the pump off again for the 100th time =( i only got a bit of as5 left too . Everything runs fine though , never have a problem with any benchmarks etc never gets over 73-75c . just curious if i could improve on that

i used as5 vertical line method , thinking ill do vertical line and 4 dots on each corner of the hs .


----------



## Xristo

k so i just reapplied some as5 , line method with 4 dots on each corner of the heat spreader .. Temps are roughly the same , core 2-3 are lower by about 1-2c .. it just got the better of me and i had to try it .... Hopefully once the thermal paste wears in abit ill see a small drop in temps . Ambients are good in my bedroom about 21c with the aircon on i get about 36c idle , but without my aircon and the windows open the heat creeps in and bring ambients upto 25-27c and my idle and load goes up with it to about 40-41..42-43 max its ever been even on the warmest day


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kokin* 
By resistors he means the resistor cables that came in the box.










Only the 2 on the left that are singles are resistors. The splitter cable on the right is intended for compatibility of having 2 fans come stock and possible end-users with limited motherboard headers etc..

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xristo* 
k so i just reapplied some as5 , line method with 4 dots on each corner of the heat spreader .. Temps are roughly the same , core 2-3 are lower by about 1-2c .. it just got the better of me and i had to try it .... Hopefully once the thermal paste wears in abit ill see a small drop in temps . Ambients are good in my bedroom about 21c with the aircon on i get about 36c idle , but without my aircon and the windows open the heat creeps in and bring ambients upto 25-27c and my idle and load goes up with it to about 40-41..42-43 max its ever been even on the warmest day

Wow, that just sound like an awful lot of TIM to me. Is your chip badly convex/concave?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]$r1g* 
Hi mates

I recently bought an H70 ,was happy for some days as my exams were going on for 8days.In-between got time & mounted H70 replacing Venomous-X ,i never really checked temps those 8days.Exams were over & the temps are same as Venomous-X man ,this is really crap.It was already decided that I will lap my 950 when the prices fell ,so i lapped my 950 & now again checked there was just 1-2c difference.My ambient temps are 20-22c ,yes its winter here & the temps on my 950 with h70 are not going down







.

I really like to bench my 950 at 4.6ghz with HT on & the temps with that setting were 90-94c with Venomous-x ,like 1 month back & now h70 is performing like crap the temps reached 100c all cores







.

Now the idle temps are 36-41c between all cores and ambient 22-24c.

Help me out mates.What should be done now?

I don't know that a H70 is really that much better than a VenomousX in temperature terms. It takes up less space maybe. Certainly neither of them are designed for 4.6GHz for long. A quick validation maybe, but not 24/7.

On the first page of this thread are links to some of the improvements people have made to their H50/70 coolers in the quest for lower temps. There is also a modded H50/70 thread

My custom water handles 4.4 as long as ambient does not rise above 30C for more than two days in a row. You might have expected too much from your H70? 90-94C is heavy duty. If your PC stays stable at those temps you are doing well. You sound like you'd like it cooler than that. Custom water might knock ten C off that. I'm on my first real water cool after a H50, so don't have all the answers ..

4.6 is a serious overclock. Some overclockers don't give info away easily, and it's a bit different for every setup anyway.

There are a few ppls really good at it, but they aren't posting in this thread right now. There are some good overclockers around the 1GHZ Overclock Club, 2GHz Overclock Club (above stock) and 4GHz Overclock Club (total) threads.


----------



## DyingCrow




Xristo said:


> k so i just reapplied some as5 , line method with 4 dots on each corner of the heat spreader .. Temps are roughly the same , core 2-3 are lower by about 1-2c .. it just got the better of me and i had to try it .... Hopefully once the thermal paste wears in abit ill see a small drop in temps . Ambients are good in my bedroom about 21c with the aircon on i get about 36c idle , but without my aircon and the windows open the heat creeps in and bring ambients upto 25-27c and my idle and load goes up with it to about 40-41..42-43 max its ever been even on the warmest day


 The DTS for the i7 cores are not accurate at lower temperatures. Dont waste you life trying to bring those down, its the load temps that really count. And those start to get accurate at around 70ish or so.


----------



## [email protected]$r1g




Xristo said:


> hey dude , 4.6Ghz ? i doubt you will cool down any i7 at those speeds with a h70 unless its heavily modified , 3k rpm fans etc what thermal paste r u using ? if your getting 100 degrees im guessing your pump isnt making 100% contact with your cpu so its spiking to 100c . Besides that 4.6Ghz is just a rediculous idea with any H series hydro cooler .. You would need a custom watercooling loop and a bigger radiator and a few powerful fans to get under 80 degree load @ 4.6ghz with H/T on ... U might be lucky with H/T off who knows. Thats my opinion anyway , drop it back down to 4.2Ghz and you will be fine . Mine would do the same thing if i push it to 4.4Ghz i get in high 80's load. not worth it for 200mhz


 OK My TIM is AC MX-3.I have gone through this whole thread thoroughly before posting my post & some report that idle temps are on the high side 36-38c & CPU is lapped.I really scratching my head what's going wrong I was think as i could hit 5ghz with H70 before buying :doh: Thats the reason of buying H70 & got to the point that ur right  I was just expecting too much from H70.


----------



## [email protected]$r1g

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


I don't know that a H70 is really that much better than a VenomousX in temperature terms. It takes up less space maybe. Certainly neither of them are designed for 4.6GHz for long. A quick validation maybe, but not 24/7.

On the first page of this thread are links to some of the improvements people have made to their H50/70 coolers in the quest for lower temps. There is also a modded H50/70 thread

My custom water handles 4.4 as long as ambient does not rise above 30C for more than two days in a row. You might have expected too much from your H70? 90-94C is heavy duty. If your PC stays stable at those temps you are doing well. You sound like you'd like it cooler than that. Custom water might knock ten C off that. I'm on my first real water cool after a H50, so don't have all the answers ..

4.6 is a serious overclock. Some overclockers don't give info away easily, and it's a bit different for every setup anyway.

There are a few ppls really good at it, but they aren't posting in this thread right now. There are some good overclockers around the 1GHZ Overclock Club, 2GHz Overclock Club (above stock) and 4GHz Overclock Club (total) threads.


Thanks bro & i have gone through some mod threads before buying







.

Yes 4.5ghz(attached) is serious but i have done that with venomousx installed & my case is open all the time.








I do have 3000rpm fans will test with them soon


----------



## _Carnage_

What would be two good 120mm x 25mm fans with higher CFM and decent noise levels to get for the H70 that'd work with my 30W Lamptron fan controller?


----------



## Prentice

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Prentice*


I saw how TARRCO mounted his/her H50 rad and was wondering if that was possible with my Lian Li PC-7B Plus II. From front to back, I'll be running a 120x25mm fan, the 120mm Airbox, H50 Rad, and another 120x25mm fan. Wonder if thats possible with my case. Mind you, I removed the HDD rack from the bottom front of my machine.


Quoting myself from page 505 only because I found the answer to my own question in case anyone else was interested in doing the same thing.










I cut ~3 inches off the back side of the the 3.5" tray. The radiator fits perfectly now. There is no radbox installed at the moment because the one I received was completely misshapen and unusable. I love the way this looks, fits, and cools now. I've only had this guy mounted for five days now, so I'm not quite ready to go crazy with the OC yet, but my 3.5GHz Phenom II 970 is running at 3.8GHz and the H50 is holding CPU temps to 31-35C while under full load (gaming). Case temps are averaging 38-41C under load. A few more days and I start making the push to 4-4.2K on this proc.

Sorry the image quality is poor. iPhones aren't known for their amazing picture quality and my digi cam battery needed charging.


----------



## eloverton2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Prentice*


Quoting myself from page 505 only because I found the answer to my own question in case anyone else was interested in doing the same thing.

I cut ~3 inches off the back side of the the 3.5" tray. The radiator fits perfectly now. There is no radbox installed at the moment because the one I received was completely misshapen and unusable. I love the way this looks, fits, and cools now. I've only had this guy mounted for five days now, so I'm not quite ready to go crazy with the OC yet, but my 3.5GHz Phenom II 970 is running at 3.8GHz and the H50 is holding CPU temps to 31-35C while under full load (gaming). Case temps are averaging 38-41C under load. A few more days and I start making the push to 4-4.2K on this proc.

Sorry the image quality is poor. iPhones aren't known for their amazing picture quality and my digi cam battery needed charging.


Looks good man. You can get a 970 to 4.0 easy on an h50. I have mine at 4020 folding 24-7...I found this chip much easier to overclock than my old 965.


----------



## desent

anyone know if there is a market for people looking for the stock heat sink that comes with the i7 970?? i'm looking to sell it sinc ei have the h70.. figured most of you experienced that and would have some info on the best way to do so.


----------



## Carfanatic

desent said:


> anyone know if there is a market for people looking for the stock heat sink that comes with the i7 970?? i'm looking to sell it sinc ei have the h70.. figured most of you experienced that and would have some info on the best way to do so.


 [URL=http:/url]www.ebay.com[/url] [URL=http:/url]www.craigslist.com[/url]


----------



## DJ4g63t




Xristo said:


> k so i just reapplied some as5 , line method with 4 dots on each corner of the heat spreader .. Temps are roughly the same , core 2-3 are lower by about 1-2c .. it just got the better of me and i had to try it .... Hopefully once the thermal paste wears in abit ill see a small drop in temps . Ambients are good in my bedroom about 21c with the aircon on i get about 36c idle , but without my aircon and the windows open the heat creeps in and bring ambients upto 25-27c and my idle and load goes up with it to about 40-41..42-43 max its ever been even on the warmest day


 Don't forget that AS5 needs time to cure. Roughly 200 hours iirc. You may experience a good 3-4*C drop in load temps once its fully cured. You have to give it some time.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]$r1g;11631018*
> OK
> 
> My TIM is AC MX-3.I have gone through this whole thread thoroughly before posting my post & some report that idle temps are on the high side 36-38c & CPU is lapped.I really scratching my head what's going wrong I was think as i could hit 5ghz with H70 before buying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats the reason of buying H70 & got to the point that ur right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was just expecting too much from H70.


5Ghz ?







haha if you could hit 5ghz with these coolers they would be the best thing since sliced bread..Unfortunatly they dont my frend.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]$r1g;11631076*
> Thanks bro & i have gone through some mod threads before buying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Yes 4.5ghz(attached) is serious but i have done that with venomousx installed & my case is open all the time.
> 
> I do have 3000rpm fans will test with them soon


Turning HT off will cut temp by about 10C though.


----------



## Xristo

Hey guys i just did 1024m wprime , did my temps get too high ? what are your opinions ...Passed with no errors and i know they say under 85c is fine but i still dont like going over 80c

I just reapplied the tim yesterday , hopefully it settles and the temps drop abit or i might have to reapply it .


----------



## rchads89

guys whats going on?

Ive had my h50 setup wrong by the lucks of it? Ive just watched the corsair h50 setup video from corsair and they are saying your fans should go like this

> rad
Airflow as intake from back not outtake?

Currently i have

<

rad

???


----------



## Xristo

just ran cinebench , topped out at 85c thats too high in my books . Im gunna change the thermal paste again =( be back with results.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rchads89;11636245*
> guys whats going on?
> 
> Ive had my h50 setup wrong by the lucks of it? Ive just watched the corsair h50 setup video from corsair and they are saying your fans should go like this
> 
> > rad
> Airflow as intake from back not outtake?
> 
> Currently i have
> 
> <
> 
> rad
> 
> ???


Corsair recommends intake because it makes their cooler look better with most setups. The majority of everyone here would NOT recommend intake rather exhaust if you have it mounted in the back.

I have two video cards and my power supply that all vent hot air out the back and they are below where my H50 would be mounted in my case so intake from back actually gives worse temps for me than exhaust. Front intake works great for me and is where I have kept it. Even if I did not have all the hot air exhausting below where my H50 was I would not put my H50 as intake from the back it isn't worth a few C cooler on my CPU to heat everything else in my case up and screw up the whole air cooling setup for my case. My setup now does put hot air in my case but it pretty much vents it right out the back/top without really getting the chance to heat up my components very much.

If I was you like when I started try all setups you can with your case and then stick with what gives you the results that you want


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11636289*
> just ran cinebench , topped out at 85c thats too high in my books . Im gunna change the thermal paste again =( be back with results.


Your too impatient lol I've personally seen a drop of 5*C when I used AS5 after it fully cured


----------



## CjGemini

I'm a member


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t;11636618*
> Your too impatient lol I've personally seen a drop of 5*C when I used AS5 after it fully cured


LOl yes i am very impatient lol , cant wait 200 hrs =p anywayy on a better note i just reapplied some as5 and whatta ya know ... Look at the difference between high n lows to the pic i posted uptop of this page half an hour ago before i reapplied the thermal paste i hit 80c in wprime and 85c in cinebench .

and now


















Thats almost 8c i lost just from reapplying the TIM







im pretty happy with those temps until i get some 3krpm fans =D .. I did those test 5 minutes after i applied it so im curious to see now if they will drop more with the curing time .

Awsoomme these are the lowest temps iv achieved so far , nb for a 4.2Ghz overclock with Ht and turbo on .


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11636880*
> LOl yes i am very impatient lol , cant wait 200 hrs =p anywayy on a better note i just reapplied some as5 and whatta ya know ... Look at the difference between high n lows to the pic i posted uptop of this page half an hour ago before i reapplied the thermal paste i hit 80c in wprime and 85c in cinebench .
> 
> and now
> 
> Thats almost 8c i lost just from reapplying the TIM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im pretty happy with those temps until i get some 3krpm fans =D .. I did those test 5 minutes after i applied it so im curious to see now if they will drop more with the curing time .
> 
> Awsoomme these are the lowest temps iv achieved so far , nb for a 4.2Ghz overclock with Ht and turbo on .


Thats great







Did you use more or less tim this time around? I'll be reseating mine soon after I do some cable sleeving and will give the shin etsu another chance. Last time I applied the shin etsu load temps were 2*C hotter than the OCZ Freeze I replaced. Either I constantly suck at reseating or I'm consistently good at reseating cause I never see more than a 1-2*C difference between reseats :/ lol. Considering my temps arent bad at all and I've probly reseated a few dozen times I'd hate to think I suck


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t;11637296*
> Thats great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you use more or less tim this time around? I'll be reseating mine soon after I do some cable sleeving and will give the shin etsu another chance. Last time I applied the shin etsu load temps were 2*C hotter than the OCZ Freeze I replaced. Either I constantly suck at reseating or I'm consistently good at reseating cause I never see more than a 1-2*C difference between reseats :/ lol. Considering my temps arent bad at all and I've probly reseated a few dozen times I'd hate to think I suck


I used a thin line down the hs , a little less this time considering i have my cpu and wb lapped i dont need that much . It worked out for me this time , i hate the plastic back plate that thing is a pos . I need a new one , few more times of taking it off and it will be screwd . The 2 bottom screws just keep turning now cos the washers in the backplate have started screwing themself into the plastic lol i tighten it too hard but i guess u have too to make good contact with your cpu . but yeah reseating is the worst job lol i hate it soo much i always work up a sweat everytime

Iv reseated no word of a lie atleast 20 times , iv tried pea method , line , x method and more i cant think of but the best iv used so far is the line method that the as5 recommends using on the i7 cpu's .. they obviously know what they are talkin about .

so anyone with an i7 using as5 , use a thin vertical line down the centre of the heat spreader for optimal results .. Best to have your cpu and block lapped if ur using only little amounts of thermal paste .


----------



## clubfoot

I've used a complete thin spread of TIM and it's worked very well on my cpu and all my heat pipes on my RE. But as you've said on a lapped setup less is better as there are less voids to fill


----------



## Xristo

iv tried the spread method also , it did work but not as well as the line method ..for me anywayz.

C2D cpu's must spread heat differently ? i know they defintaly dont run as hot , mate of mine has an e8500 clocked to 4.1 using a generic heatsink with crap TIM and he never sees over 65c . I wish i7's ran that cool


----------



## Enfluenza

sup guys...
since both asetek and corsair's WC units are basically the same, does any1 have the long screws for the fans to mount to the rad?

if any1 has 4 or 8 of those let me know. my dual rad didnt have long ones and it came with short screws that are a pain in the butt to install tight, and they fall out often lol.

so any1 has those long skrews? thx.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enfluenza;11638876*
> sup guys...
> since both asetek and corsair's WC units are basically the same, does any1 have the long screws for the fans to mount to the rad?
> 
> if any1 has 4 or 8 of those let me know. my dual rad didnt have long ones and it came with short screws that are a pain in the butt to install tight, and they fall out often lol.
> 
> so any1 has those long skrews? thx.


Definitely sounds like something is wrong there. If you live in the US you should be able to pick up screws if they are the same 8/16 screws/toggle bolts. Sounds like you got some bad screws or you stripped your radiator threads if they are falling out though because they give the proper length screws for the fans that come stock at least.

Lowes, Home Depot, Ace, Tractor supply, Menards or any other hardware store should have what your looking for. Take in the one of the screws that "isn't long enough" and get a little longer. You may have to go quite a bit longer and then cut off the extra or use washers or nuts to make sure they don't screw right into the radiator and damage it.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enfluenza;11638876*
> sup guys...
> since both asetek and corsair's WC units are basically the same, does any1 have the long screws for the fans to mount to the rad?
> 
> if any1 has 4 or 8 of those let me know. my dual rad didnt have long ones and it came with short screws that are a pain in the butt to install tight, and they fall out often lol.
> 
> so any1 has those long skrews? thx.


Yep, I checked Home Depot last week and they had the stock screws (#6-32 by 1.25"). I was looking for some 2.125" or 2.25" ones, but the longest they had was 2", which was only enough to go through my fan and shroud. Waste of my 89 cents and time.


----------



## alancsalt

6 gauge 32 threads per inch, which is probably the same thing as the 8/16'' Carfanatic mentions


----------



## Xristo

So i tried some antec tricool fans at full speed in push pull over my noctua ones , they are noisier but i get decent temps with these fans ..


----------



## Xristo

4.32Ghz


----------



## slimbrady

Your raptor HDD gives you a 7.6 or better on your WEI???? My SSD gives 7.4 wth, lol.

Oh yeah, nice temps. =)


----------



## [email protected]

Anyone know if 100F is a normal temp at load for i5 760? I had a mild overclock.

Stock was 2.80mhz but clocked to 2.89mhz because of my ram timmings i had to manually set them to 1600mhz cuz my motherboard was detecting 1333mhz at boot start up when i first built it.


----------



## Plex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];11646492*
> Anyone know if 100F is a normal temp at load for i5 760? I had a mild overclock.


That's a really low load temp, OC'd or not. I would say you're in good shape.

You can go way higher than that with that chip man, don't stop there!

Also, no motherboard (innately) supports 1600MHz right now. 1333MHz is the max, you have to adjust that yourself (like you said you did). Now start jacking up that BLCK! You can lower the RAM multiplier to keep it at around 1600 as you go.


----------



## [email protected]

I really don't know how that BLCK works. I'm still new in the 1156 overclocking area.

I know alot about oc'ing the quads in 775 socket era lol.

Tips can be appreciated and bios are a little hugely different than i expected. I don't wanna screw things up but yea i'd love to go 4ghz or 3.4


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];11646492*
> Anyone know if 100F is a normal temp at load for i5 760? I had a mild overclock.
> 
> Stock was 2.80mhz but clocked to 2.89mhz because of my ram timmings i had to manually set them to 1600mhz cuz my motherboard was detecting 1333mhz at boot start up when i first built it.


Just so we're clear you are monitoring your core temps in Fahrenheit and not Celsius? I know it might be a stupid question but most temp programs read in Celsius by default.


----------



## Plex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t;11646779*
> Just so we're clear you are monitoring your core temps in Fahrenheit and not Celsius? I know it might be a stupid question but most temp programs read in Celsius by default.


Aye, that's a good question. It's a whole different ballgame if we're talking 100C. :X


----------



## [email protected]

No no i am reading temps in c of course.. it shows the F on the side..

NOT 100C no lol.

I think it has something to do with my psu. I got a new one here in forums but i can tell he probably used it for a long long time but anyhow the fan has a top exhaust fan and heat rises up to my video card and my H70 wayyy up top of the case thus making my whole temps in my case change. I like it when i had my other psu in the case cuz it has side fans instead of the top and i notice no hitch when playing games. I think it's the airflow that's causing things.

Disappointed cuz it's a Corsair and yet it has a top fan. My case isn't made for psu that can face the psu fan downwards to the floor and i have no tools nor any experience to mod a hole on the bottom.

Trying to decide if i should just set my ram to auto instead o 1600mhz which my ram is setting at at default eventhough my mobo does start at 1333mhz maybe my temps may go lower then again i might just suck it up and swamp my psu back in.

I previously had a 680 watt Apevia and lasted a year.

The one i am running is a Corsair 650.

I'm thinking i liked my apevia cuz my system was cooler and more fluent in gaming too eventhough warranty expired on that one lol. Lasted a good year though.

Reason why i got a corsair is cuz the 12v rail







Then again.. i am very NIT PICKY about temps and i like lower temps. I don't wanna see 2 or 3 skips or lag when playing just because of heat. I want a smooth system. Advice?

Swamp back the psu or make adjustments in bios?


----------



## the_xpert

I already have the h50, would a h70 give me any major upgrade?


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];11647481*
> No no i am reading temps in c of course.. it shows the F on the side..
> 
> NOT 100C no lol.
> 
> Disappointed cuz it's a Corsair and yet it has a top fan. My case isn't made for psu that can face the psu fan downwards to the floor and i have no tools nor any experience to mod a hole on the bottom.


Why not mount the Corsair upside down so the fan is on the top and sucking air out of the your case? Power supply fans don't blow air out the suck air in and exhaust it out of the case.


----------



## [email protected]

Really? You sure? Cuz i don't have a vent hole on the bottom of my case. I thought if you did that it would overheat the power supply? Please clarify before i attempt this.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the_xpert;11647525*
> I already have the h50, would a h70 give me any major upgrade?


Cant see the difference being major .. You will get better temps if you have it in the same push pull setup but not 10c less .


----------



## [email protected]

Actually the H70 brings better temps and takes heat faster than the H50 because the rad is thicker. Both are good imo. CHOOSE WISELY Indiana


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];11647736*
> Really? You sure? Cuz i don't have a vent hole on the bottom of my case. I thought if you did that it would overheat the power supply? Please clarify before i attempt this.


He means that a PSU, whether it sucks air in at the bottom, or in at the top, exhausts it out the back of the case, not into the case. It's not a top exhaust, it's a top intake.

Therefore there shouldn't be much "rising heat" from a PSU anyway.


----------



## [email protected]

Guess i'm gonna flip the psu and see what happens. I think my theory is right cuz it did change temps once i swamped psu.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];11646653*
> I really don't know how that BLCK works. I'm still new in the 1156 overclocking area.
> 
> I know alot about oc'ing the quads in 775 socket era lol.
> 
> Tips can be appreciated and bios are a little hugely different than i expected. I don't wanna screw things up but yea i'd love to go 4ghz or 3.4


blck is the base clock , my bios is set up like so .. 22x177 + turbo = 24x177 = 4.248Ghz @ 1.408v .

22x175 = 3.8Ghz , 22x170 = 3.7Ghz , 22x165 = 3.6Ghz , 22x160=3.5Ghz , 22x155=3.4Ghz ( turbo on , will give you 24x multi )

20x200 = 4.0Ghz , 20x190 = 3.8Ghz , 20x180 = 3.6Ghz , 20x170 = 3.4Ghz

Depending on what ram you have i would set it on quite low while you get your overclock sorted , once thats done put the ram multi so its sitting close to stock freq or just a tad overclocked ..usually if left on auto it will sort out the best frq for your ram at the speeds u selected .

Then you will need to work out your voltages to run your overclock , anything 4Ghz and lower i would leave all the voltages on auto and just set the vcore to whatever your overclock is stable at .

If you need a hand with anything let me know , i5 760 is similar to my i7 870 just no hyperthreading so you will have lower temps to start with .. U shuld hit similar clocks to me since u got a h70 now







dont be afraid to get more out of ur cpu.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];11647736*
> Really? You sure? Cuz i don't have a vent hole on the bottom of my case. I thought if you did that it would overheat the power supply? Please clarify before i attempt this.


PSU's can be mounted either way without harm. It is not suggested to run a psu with the fan facing a wall or the case floor unless there is a hole in it for the psu to breathe. It needs to be able to pull sufficient amounts of air through it to cool it properly. You would damage/overheat it faster with the fan facing the floor than you would with the fan facing the top.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];11647878*
> Guess i'm gonna flip the psu and see what happens. I think my theory is right cuz it did change temps once i swamped psu.


Not saying to turn it over - saying air goes out the BACK whatever way up it is.
Don't block intake....


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;11647932*
> Not saying to turn it over - saying air goes out the BACK whatever way up it is.
> Don't block intake....


Yeah he's a bit unclear in his posts(to me anyways) but he may have the psu fan facing up already so you are right not to turn it over and face the fan towards the floor.

I had issues with my psu cables not being long enough when I mounted it with the fan facing up so I had to mount mine with the fan facing the floor and my case didn't have the hole for it either. I had a big drill bit laying around and just made a bunch of holes right in front of where the psu fan sits. I made a filter for it too so it doesn't suck up all the dirt and dust.


----------



## Xristo

My psu sits at the bottom in the antec 1200 , the fan sucks in and blows out the back ? whats the issues with that ? its not really effecting anything ..If anything it helps get the warm air out of ur case , but since its at the bottom its just chewing up all the cool air im blowing in =p along with my gfx card.


----------



## Xristo

if your psu is blowing air into your case , id open it up and switch the fan around to intake and exhaust out the case . Dont physically flip over the psu that would be bad ..Never heard of a psu exhausting into the case :s that would suck


----------



## [email protected]

Exactly, i think i will be fine. The psu has a lot of vent on the back so likely it'll stay cool anyways. I shouldn't be worried but i am totally gonna invest another psu with side fan exhausts. I'm picky and yes i rather have proper airflow for my gpu and case.

I appreciate the tips how to overclock the processor. I'm a little frighten to try because i never overclocked a i5 before. I know so much about overclocking quads and 775 socket bios.

This one is way a little different.

Tempted to go 4ghz but maybe 3.8? Dunno how far this processor can go and dunno what would be the safe temps. I don't really ever use Prime 95 plus i used to always use the Intel test burn. For now i'd rather learn more about it before i even ATTEMPT to try lol.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11648208*
> if your psu is blowing air into your case , id open it up and switch the fan around to intake and exhaust out the case . Dont physically flip over the psu that would be bad ..Never heard of a psu exhausting into the case :s that would suck


Switching the fan around? That's a brillant idea..i should have thought of that!!

I did flip it though.. call me crazy but i think i might be ok. Xristo said he did his and works fine ever since? I would love to see a thread debate about this issue.

I could dremel the bottom of the case but i don't own a tool and i don't even think i'd wanna try cuz i might mess something up but i'd don't mind lol. I'd be more concerned if the dust on the bottom rises in the bottom of the case? lol.

Thoughts? My psu is currently flipped and i saw a HUGE difference in temps like the way i had with my old psu. Now flipping the fan is a good idea but i will void this psu's warranty if i do.. This is bought from a member in forums so i have no idea if the warranty is till intact.









(EDIT) What if i flipped the fan and then flipped the psu? hmmm....


----------



## Xristo

your welcome , i wouldnt be afraid u cant physically damage a cpu from overclocking ..new mobo's will have dual bios so if u did exceed the limits of the cpu it will reboot back to default settings rather than clear the cmos like u used to have to..

You are using a h70 , if you have it in push pull i would alomost gurantee your cpu would run nicely at 4Ghz and never have a problem ..but as u said if ur not comfortable overclocking yet than read abit more about it .

So you cant open the psu to turn the fan over ? find out if its still under warrenty ? or harden up and open it up n switch it around =D its good to learn , u will also learn that if u are careful nothing can go wrong . Its just 4 screws to to open up the top casing of the psu , switch the fan over and bobs ur uncle =) psu's are a dime a dozen these days anyway unless its 1000w+ i paid $60 AUD for a 665w

I was thinking of taking out my psu fan and swapping it for one with blue leds , wuld like nice .


----------



## [email protected]

Guess i will flip the fan then.. eventhough i did flip the psu LMAO.

Think it'll be ok if i flip the psu and the fan itself too? It'll still blow air in? What you think?


----------



## Xristo

I guess you could do that , aslong as the psu has air to breathe dude ... i dont think it matters if its upside down or not that woudnt affect its functionality .


----------



## [email protected]

So you're saying i don't need to flip the fan then or should i? I gotta know this before i attempt anything.

I might just flip the fan then leave the psu upside down cuz i like how the airflow regulate properly in my case now that my video card doesn't have airflow interruption from the psu.

I always liked psu that has fans on front and back as intake to exhaust. Those always are proper for my airflow in the case.


----------



## Krlll

*[email protected]* I did THIS with my PSU.
I didnt follow it exactly and mounting holes might be a bit different but it works fine.
My primary reason for doing this was that it made cable management easier and also because ...er I could.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krlll*


*[email protected]* I did THIS with my PSU.
I didnt follow it exactly and mounting holes might be a bit different but it works fine.
My primary reason for doing this was that it made cable management easier and also because ...er I could.










nice post thanks , im gunna do this right now ill post pics when im done .


----------



## [email protected]

That's nice but i didn't do that. What i did was i flipped the fan and installed it. Then after finishing i flipped the unit upside down thus having my cables a bit closer now to the side of the tower.

So far i know one thing is the fan that i flipped would be pushing air against the components. Hopefully it'll last for a long time then again i may just order a better psu cuz i still like fans on the sides instead of top.

The fan is now intake on the bottom upside in the psu unit. I hope this isn't a stupid idea.


----------



## Xristo

K i just did the mod , i can now hide some of the wires that used to have to sit at the front of the case . thankyou !!! that wire going across the mobo is the extra power connector .. its so friggn short!! this psu was designed for a small case thats for sure .


















When i first got my antec case , i used these stupid cable managment tubes that looked rediculous..nm i could do with the wires right next to the glass..








Now its just black down the bottom , cant even see a wire =D awssome.. iv been trying to rectify these wire issues for ages n now its finally all hidden properly. also notice im using the noctua's as case fans now , i tried the tri cool fans on my rad and i got better results.


----------



## Kokin

So I went ahead and redid my build using AS5 with the H50. The previous owner really did a bang-up job on the copper plate (scratches and burn/oxidation marks all over







), so I decided to do a bit of lapping using 300, 400, 500, 600, 800, and finally 2000 grit sandpaper. I probably did a crappy job, but the block is very smooth and shiny compared to the previous rough and unclean condition.

*You can still see some sanding scratches, but it's pretty smooth and straight throughout the block:*









I was able to get really LOW temps to my surprise! I had my 955 set to 3800mhz with 1.45V (NB @ stock 2000mhz, so that might add heat later on when I raise it up) and I was able to get 25C idle temps, 44C load temps with Prime95 Large FFTs and 45C load temps with LinX (max memory). My ambient is about 15C right now with my window open and the H50 keeps my whole system cool as an intake. This is definitely better than my SM2's load temps of 50C-52C!










Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krlll*


*[email protected]* I did THIS with my PSU.
I didnt follow it exactly and mounting holes might be a bit different but it works fine.
My primary reason for doing this was that it made cable management easier and also because ...er I could.










Wow, I wish I had space to do that on my 902...


----------



## [email protected]

Xistro.. dude i noticed you have the atx pin in the case? Why not order a extension cable for it and you can run it behind? I do with mine.. Must be a pain to have that. Here's a link.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g2/c485/s1281/list/p1/Cables-ModSmart_Kobra_SS_Cables-Kobra_SS_P4_Ext-Page1.html

Here's the extensions for your pin connectors. So you don't have to line it up on your motherboard.

Also another tip.. get some stickers that can hold tie wraps.

Radio shack has them. you can use it behind your case to hold down the cable flat against the wall so you can close the back side panel easily.

I liked how you did that mod! Now i kinda wanna do mine but i don't have the tools lol.


----------



## Xristo

Yeah man im gunna fix that up tommoro , whether i buy the connecter or just extend the wires probably it doesnt bother me but it just looks untidy their over the pcie port . Everything other than that is perfect .

thanks u dont really need any tools , i used a screw driver , abit of double sided tape n thats it ? the tray comes with the case i still had it new in the box i never used it so it was good it all went to plan lol .


----------



## purduepilot

Alrighty so I put in my H50 about a year ago using the stock (44CFM?) exhaust fan on my case and another cheapo Best Buy fan on the front of the rad for a push/pull config. Using the stock TIM that came on the block. I have my 955BE (C2) running at about 3.6-3.7GHz with around 1.5 volts. Current ambients are about 19C and folding with 100% cpu load is giving me 53C on the core right now. If the ambients go up a few degrees (i.e. when the furnace kicks on) or if I run Prime95, then core temp goes as high as 59 or so (not good on my CPU). I clean the dust out of the radiator every few months and I'm pretty sure I've got decent flow in my case with a 120mm intake fan on the front, 120mm intake fan on the side panel, 140mm exhaust fan on top, and of course the two 120mm fans exhausting with the radiator. When the GPU is folding it hits about 60 (vs. 40 idle) and raises the core temp by a couple degrees.

I've been thinking about investing in a better fan for the radiator since I feel like this cooler should be moving a lot more heat than it is. The air is definitely warm coming out the back, but it just doesn't feel like much airflow. Since this thread is the biggest case of TLDR I've ever seen, I was wondering if anybody had any suggestions for fans. I was toying with the idea of getting one of these bad boys. Computer is on 24/7 in the bedroom and this is a 45dB fan so noise _is_ a consideration. I'd either plug it into the mobo CPU fan socket (that would enable me to control this particular fan's speed, right? It works for the fan currently plugged in there) or get a nice fan controller (which would require me to remount the block to slip in the temperature probe in order to have automatic throttling, and I'd rather not screw with that).

I'm seeking advice and am all ears!

edit:

Now considering these fans, too, since they have high flow and PWM connectors. It seems the one above does not have PWM.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835706038

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106153


----------



## [email protected]

wow these fans are nice. I might get myself one and try these too and see if there is any temp change. It's nice to see higher cfm so we can take away all the heat out.

I'm hearing impaired so lucky me i could care less about the noise lmao.


----------



## purduepilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];11657755*
> wow these fans are nice. I might get myself one and try these too and see if there is any temp change. It's nice to see higher cfm so we can take away all the heat out.
> 
> I'm hearing impaired so lucky me i could care less about the noise lmao.


I also have a hearing loss so the noise doesn't bother me much, either. My girlfriend whines about it, tough...

I've concluded that the first fan I posted is only a 3pin connector. I'm still trying to figure out if my motherboard is able to throttle a 3pin fan using the CPU or chassis fan connectors. I'm guessing not, which is unfortunate because the 4pin PWM (link 2 of the 3) fan is like three times as expensive with shipping. Fan in link 3 does not appear to be a PWM fan--it just has a resistor you can put in the loop to manually control the fan voltage, which is not what I want. So fans 1 and 3 would require a controller for me, and fan 2 should work with PWM control on my board. I just wish it weren't $30.


----------



## Xristo

poor fellas i wish i was hearing impaired , i got woken up by a steam roller at 7am ! =( n those tricool fans are goin bbzzzzzzzz in my ear but its nuttn abit of music wont fix =D

I need some new fans tooo , no pc store around here sells good ones only the gay ones with leds =( ebay here i coommmeee , never used ebay .. can u purchase things using bpay ?


----------



## DJ4g63t

I've been eye ballin these fans for a while CM Blademaster. Unfortunately for me my fan controller can't do PWM fans but I like their high static pressure which is a big plus for a rad fan.


----------



## Xristo

Anyone tried over volting their fans ? im curious to set up some 17-24v fans on my radiator im not too sure how they will hold up though ..

http://www.afrotechmods.com/fanmod.htm


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


I've been eye ballin these fans for a while CM Blademaster. Unfortunately for me my fan controller can't do PWM fans but I like their high static pressure which is a big plus for a rad fan.


I had 2 in a push-pull config. GREAT fans, but if you don't have any pwm connectors on your motherboard or controller they're loud at full blast. I'm surprised they hardly get any attention on here.


----------



## motoray

Hey heres a computer i just put together for a friend antec lanboy air 1090T h70 with gigabyte ud5. Havnt gotten to test the h70 really yet but 6970 will be here in the morning and i can post the results on how well it works







plus ill get high quality pics this is cell phone.


----------



## Drizzt5

My pump died in my watercooling setup after around 3 years use....
Ordered a h50 and am going back to air cooling for the gpu... don't have time anymore to dick around when parts fail like that.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drizzt5;11664726*
> My pump died in my watercooling setup after around 3 years use....
> Ordered a h50 and am going back to air cooling for the gpu... don't have time anymore to dick around when parts fail like that.


I would guess that air cooler uses a fan right? A lot of fans are rated for 30,000 hours which is a little more than 3 years of 24/7 use so guess that whole idea that of worrying about parts failing is kinda moot.....3 years is not that bad for any one mechanical computer part to last. A lot of fans just give warranties for a year and that's it so they don't even come close to supporting their product for 3 years.

I don't even think the H50 has been out for 3 years so we will see if it even lasts that long.


----------



## XtachiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drizzt5;11664726*
> My pump died in my watercooling setup after around 3 years use....
> Ordered a h50 and am going back to air cooling for the gpu... don't have time anymore to dick around when parts fail like that.


the parts didnt fail, their lifetime was finished
why not order another pump?


----------



## Xristo

my idle temps , after 2 days of the as5 curing .. 20c ambient ..Some of the cores drop down to 29 occasionaly .. impressive , ill get some load temps up .










Cinebench test took me to 72c / 70c / 67c / 70c









Those temps look good to me , i dont know of any aircooler that will peform that well at that overclock .. how does that compare to top of the line air coolers ? just curious

im using antec tricool fans at 2000rpm in push pull

Im thinking about going back to default settings just to see what the temps will be .


----------



## purduepilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11661718*
> poor fellas i wish i was hearing impaired , i got woken up by a steam roller at 7am ! =( n those tricool fans are goin bbzzzzzzzz in my ear but its nuttn abit of music wont fix =D
> 
> I need some new fans tooo , no pc store around here sells good ones only the gay ones with leds =( ebay here i coommmeee , never used ebay .. can u purchase things using bpay ?


No you don't. And I'm not sure why LEDs make you think of penis, but they don't have that effect on me.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t;11662134*
> I've been eye ballin these fans for a while CM Blademaster. Unfortunately for me my fan controller can't do PWM fans but I like their high static pressure which is a big plus for a rad fan.


I was thinking something with a little more flow since my case fan is *supposedly* 44CFM already and my performance is not really pleasing.


----------



## Xristo

So i set bios to optimized defaults , im ideling under my current ambient according to my thermometre its 20c in here .










Cinebench test 48c max









Wprime benchmark 1024m
note : its 1:10 slower than at 4.2Ghz
max 50c









Prime95 smallFTT
5 cycles
53c max / 21c ambient


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *purduepilot;11667316*
> No you don't. And I'm not sure why LEDs make you think of penis, but they don't have that effect on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking something with a little more flow since my case fan is *supposedly* 44CFM already and my performance is not really pleasing.


Why not go with Yate Loon High Speeds? They give 88cfm, though at a loud 40db. They only cost about $6 each + shipping. Though I recommend you only get the ones from Sidewinders, Petra's, or Danger Den.


----------



## Drizzt5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XtachiX;11666958*
> the parts didnt fail, their lifetime was finished
> why not order another pump?


Don't feel like it. And if fans die then I can easily replace them (I've got a box full of yate loons).
I think the h50 should last a while considering its a closed loop.

Plus... you know that the pump that just died on me is worth almost as much as the h70?

I'm sick of messing around with watercooling because of the cost and time I had to put into it... times are different for me, I'll just let Corsair do it for me from now on (unless this h50 defies reviews and sucks).


----------



## Beck-Miester

You can add me to the list of H50/70 fans/users. I just got my primary system all setup. I wasn't too happy with the fixed speed (adjustable only with the resistor cable) fans, and swapped them out for a pair of Thermaltake variable speed fans. I was TRYING to go for a black & red theme, but until I can find a suitable red bladed fan (or perhaps another couple of the 3 speed Antec red LED fans I am using for my top exhast), I will stick with those. At 2500rpm, they are extremely and annoyingly loud though. I leave them at around 1800rpm when operating at stock.


----------



## Drizzt5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beck-Miester;11670129*
> You can add me to the list of H50/70 fans/users. I just got my primary system all setup. I wasn't too happy with the fixed speed (adjustable only with the resistor cable) fans, and swapped them out for a pair of Thermaltake variable speed fans. I was TRYING to go for a black & red theme, but until I can find a suitable red bladed fan (or perhaps another couple of the 3 speed Antec red LED fans I am using for my top exhast), I will stick with those. At 2500rpm, they are extremely and annoyingly loud though. I leave them at around 1800rpm when operating at stock.


That looks nice. So you have it sucking in cold air from the back, passing through the rad, and then into the case? Do you find that the most effective?


----------



## Beck-Miester

Drizzt5: I have them set up as intakes, rather than outputs. I have ample exhast through the top pf the case with the 3 x 120mm fans up there. I have my secondary system running an H70 on my Q6600 B3 as an intake as well. They seem to be working pretty well.

My stock speed core temps are in the low-mid 20's on my Q6600 and low 30s on my i7 950 @ a room temp of around 23*C. All in all, I am pretty pleased. Under load for an extended time they don't go much above 50*C


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *purduepilot;11667316*
> I was thinking something with a little more flow since my case fan is *supposedly* 44CFM already and my performance is not really pleasing.


When your talking about a rad or cpu heatsinks static pressure is just as important if not more important than airflow. If you have a 70cfm fan with terrible static pressure it's not going to have the strength to force much air though the rad or heatsink fins due to low static pressure so the 70cfm rating would be misleading when talking about cpu cooling. Its a common misconception that more airflow means better cooling when it comes to cpu cooling which isn't always the case. Take Gentle Typhoons for instance. They are great rad fans cause they have a good static pressure not because they flow a lot of cfm's. They actually don't flow much cfm's compared to other 120x25mm fans but their static pressure makes up for the difference when used on a rad.

This quote is pulled right from Wikipedia
Quote:


> The other consideration when choosing a computer fan is static pressure. A fan with high static pressure is more effective at forcing air through restricted spaces, such as the gaps between a radiator or heatsink. Therefore, enthusiasts often prioritize static pressure over CFM when choosing a fan for use with a heatsink. The relative importance of static pressure depends on the degree to which the airflow is restricted by geometry (i.e. static pressure becomes more important as the spacing between heatsink blades decreases). Static pressure is usually measured in either mm Hg or mm H2O.


So







right back at ya


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


So i set bios to optimized defaults , im ideling under my current ambient according to my thermometre its 20c in here .


Somethings wrong with those idle temps cause its impossible to idle below ambient temps unless your using an extreme method of cooling like Ln2 or dice. I can't say much about your load temps but personally I'd be concerned cause the idle temps are wrong.


----------



## Oskars

Should i change better fans to my corsair h50 or get noctua nh-d14? which one would be better for overclocking phenom 965 to 4Ghz?


----------



## Drizzt5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Beck-Miester*


Drizzt5: I have them set up as intakes, rather than outputs. I have ample exhast through the top pf the case with the 3 x 120mm fans up there. I have my secondary system running an H70 on my Q6600 B3 as an intake as well. They seem to be working pretty well.

My stock speed core temps are in the low-mid 20's on my Q6600 and low 30s on my i7 950 @ a room temp of around 23*C. All in all, I am pretty pleased. Under load for an extended time they don't go much above 50*C


Very nice. My case doesn't have the best airflow, but I think it will be fine with an intake setup.


----------



## XtachiX

h50
just get 2 ultra kaze 2000rpm


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


Somethings wrong with those idle temps cause its impossible to idle below ambient temps unless your using an extreme method of cooling like Ln2 or dice. I can't say much about your load temps but personally I'd be concerned cause the idle temps are wrong.


:s not according to both realtemp and coretemp , i forgot to mention that its just idle sitting on the desktop no apps open besides ie explorer , ms paint and winamp . The freq sits as low as 1.2 on idle and 3.2 at load .

50c load temps is really low in my opinion , for an i7 thats impressive . In winter ill get high 40's in prime95 small ftt . Iv read hundereds of forums , people with i7's at stock freq loading into the 70's even the 80's while using prime.

21c ambient , idle temps..


















Heres some one on this forum using an i5 750 with a Scythe Mugen 2 Rev. B 
( i5 = no hyperthreading )










and here is my load
(hyperthreading on)


----------



## XtachiX

what is your load temps?


----------



## Drizzt5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


:s not according to both realtemp and coretemp , i forgot to mention that its just idle sitting on the desktop no apps open besides ie explorer , ms paint and winamp . The freq sits as low as 1.2 on idle and 3.2 at load . I can keep my load in the 40's if my aircon was on at around 17c ambients im 
21c in my room again according to my thermometre , and it is summer here dont forget .

50c load temps is really low in my opinion , for an i7 thats impressive . In winter ill get high 40's in prime95 small ftt . Iv read hundereds of forums , people with i7 at stock loading into the 70's even the 80's .




















Somethings wrong. Temps shouldn't be below ambient. Could be faulty temp sensors.


----------



## Paladin Goo

If you don't mind me asking, how did you guys get the 2nd fan on the H50?? Also, would you recommend using the stock thermal paste that comes with it as opposed to a third party solution? Just got one of these.


----------



## XtachiX

or could be chipset driver issues?


----------



## XtachiX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raven Dizzle*


If you don't mind me asking, how did you guys get the 2nd fan on the H50?? Also, would you recommend using the stock thermal paste that comes with it as opposed to a third party solution? Just got one of these.


you only need 2 screws on each side connected diagonally
h50 tim is a good one, but it has way too much, so you will need to remove it and apply something like it (arctic silver 5 or something)


----------



## Paladin Goo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XtachiX*


you only need 2 screws on each side connected diagonally
h50 tim is a good one, but it has way too much, so you will need to remove it and apply something like it (arctic silver 5 or something)


Doh! Common sense ftw! I should have thought of the diagonal screwing (the sexual innuendo there is priceless)...I'll probably end up removing the thermal paste and using some of my MX-3. With the temps I'm getting now with my TRUE black using that stuff and the rice grain method, I don't wanna mess too much with that formula


----------



## XtachiX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raven Dizzle*


Doh! Common sense ftw! I should have thought of the diagonal screwing (the sexual innuendo there is priceless)...I'll probably end up removing the thermal paste and using some of my MX-3. With the temps I'm getting now with my TRUE black using that stuff and the rice grain method, I don't wanna mess too much with that formula










lol glad i could help.... diagonally


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Drizzt5*


Somethings wrong. Temps shouldn't be below ambient. Could be faulty temp sensors.


Well my thermometre is only a cheapie so it could be displaying the wrong temperature but only 1-2c off , if that . If its not under than it for sure and certain is ideling at ambient temps =) 3 different programs are telling me the same thing .. Real temp , core temp and cpuz hw monitor.. bios is saying im ideling at 19c also .

the facts dont lie , just because im ideling at ambients doesnt mean my sesnors are stuffed :s it means iv done a bloody good job putting this thing together


----------



## purduepilot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


Why not go with Yate Loon High Speeds? They give 88cfm, though at a loud 40db. They only cost about $6 each + shipping. Though I recommend you only get the ones from Sidewinders, Petra's, or Danger Den.


Never heard of them. Will have to take a look. Thanks!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


When your talking about a rad or cpu heatsinks static pressure is just as important if not more important than airflow. If you have a 70cfm fan with terrible static pressure it's not going to have the strength to force much air though the rad or heatsink fins due to low static pressure so the 70cfm rating would be misleading when talking about cpu cooling. Its a common misconception that more airflow means better cooling when it comes to cpu cooling which isn't always the case. Take Gentle Typhoons for instance. They are great rad fans cause they have a good static pressure not because they flow a lot of cfm's. They actually don't flow much cfm's compared to other 120x25mm fans but their static pressure makes up for the difference when used on a rad.

So







right back at ya










Very good point--I hadn't really considered the static pressure measurement. Unfortunately, I have no idea what the values are for the fans I have in my case now, so I guess I'll have to do a bit of research to see what would be a good improvement.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


Well my thermometre is only a cheapie so it could be displaying the wrong temperature but only 1-2c off , if that . If its not under than it for sure and certain is ideling at ambient temps =) 3 different programs are telling me the same thing .. Real temp , core temp and cpuz hw monitor.. bios is saying im ideling at 19c also .

the facts dont lie , just because im ideling at ambients doesnt mean my sesnors are stuffed :s it means iv done a bloody good job putting this thing together










Touch the cooler at the base near the CPU while the CPU is idling and see if it feels any warmer than room temperature (touch the metal on the outside of your case or something similar for comparison). Protip: Watch out for sharp spinny things like fan blades.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *purduepilot*


Never heard of them. Will have to take a look. Thanks!

Very good point--I hadn't really considered the static pressure measurement. Unfortunately, I have no idea what the values are for the fans I have in my case now, so I guess I'll have to do a bit of research to see what would be a good improvement.

Touch the cooler at the base near the CPU while the CPU is idling and see if it feels any warmer than room temperature (touch the metal on the outside of your case or something similar for comparison). Protip: Watch out for sharp spinny things like fan blades.










Ok , did as you suggested and the pump feels the same temp as my side panel . Pump is not warm at all . In reality though the pump is going to produce heat one way or another and it will always be just a tad warmer than ambient temps because its an electrical component with moving parts and due to the fact its inside the case not outside in ambient temps =)


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


Well my thermometre is only a cheapie so it could be displaying the wrong temperature but only 1-2c off , if that . If its not under than it for sure and certain is ideling at ambient temps =) 3 different programs are telling me the same thing .. Real temp , core temp and cpuz hw monitor.. bios is saying im ideling at 19c also .

the facts dont lie , just because im ideling at ambients doesnt mean my sesnors are stuffed :s it means iv done a bloody good job putting this thing together










Even so its highly unlikely that you would idle right at ambient with an h50/70. Considering temps inside your case would be at minimum 3-4C higher than ambient and that is where your rad is mounted (i assume lol). If your cpu has a faulty sensor then even the mobo would read inaccurate idle temps cause thats where it gets its readings from. If your temps seem too good to be true they just might be. Like you stated before your temps seem super cool compared to other i7's. Its just food for thought. If your comfortable with your temp readings and feel they are 100% accurate then thats really all that matters


----------



## Paladin Goo

Um...noob question here...would somebody be able to suggest the best way to remove the thermal grease from the pump on this cooler? Just got it as I said, but I don't wanna scratch up the surface.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


Well my thermometre is only a cheapie so it could be displaying the wrong temperature but only 1-2c off , if that . If its not under than it for sure and certain is ideling at ambient temps =) 3 different programs are telling me the same thing .. Real temp , core temp and cpuz hw monitor.. bios is saying im ideling at 19c also .

the facts dont lie , just because im ideling at ambients doesnt mean my sesnors are stuffed :s it means iv done a bloody good job putting this thing together










They are not facts, and they do lie. This topic has been covered many times in this thread. Idle temps are NOT accurate. That doesn't mean you haven't done a good job, it just means idle temps especially are not accurate, because of the way CPU temps are "measured".

Quote:



More than a few programs have been released over the last few years, each claiming to accurately report these DTS values in real-time. The truth is that none can be fully trusted as the Tjunction values utilized in these transformations may not always be correct. Moreover, Intel representatives have informed us that these as-of-yet unpublished Tjunction values may actually vary from model to model - sometimes even between different steppings - and that the temperature response curves may not be entirely accurate across the whole reporting range. Since all of today's monitoring programs have come to incorrectly assume that Tjunction values are a function of the processor family/stepping only, we have no choice but to call everything we thought we had come to know into question. Until Intel decides to publish these values on a per-model basis, the best these DTS readings can do for us is give a relative indication of each core's remaining thermal margin, whatever that may be.


http://www.anandtech.com/show/2468/4

Uncle Web, who wrote RealTemp has spoken about this SO many times:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...179044&page=10

A little bit of Google searching will soon tell you the same.

A cpu temp lower than ambient defies the laws of physics. It is not possible through air or water cooling without refrigeration.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


Even so its highly unlikely that you would idle right at ambient with an h50/70. Considering temps inside your case would be at minimum 3-4C higher than ambient and that is where your rad is mounted (i assume lol). If your cpu has a faulty sensor then even the mobo would read inaccurate idle temps cause thats where it gets its readings from. If your temps seem too good to be true they just might be. Like you stated before your temps seem super cool compared to other i7's. Its just food for thought. If your comfortable with your temp readings and feel they are 100% accurate then thats really all that matters










Yeah , i get where your coming from . But then i again i think i have spent thousands on the computer and i have spent alot of my time playing around with this h50 trying out fans , different thermal pastes and positions for the rad . Im not saying they are 100% accurate because they might not be , but under the current circumstances i cant see why it cant be true . If my comp was old and worn out id probably agree with you but the thing is only a few months old and iv taken pride in my computer i always do things properly and the outcome is a good result =) i think the h50 is capable of more than what people think , dont underestimate .. the h50 is an awsome cooler in the right hands =D


----------



## XtachiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raven Dizzle;11673519*
> Um...noob question here...would somebody be able to suggest the best way to remove the thermal grease from the pump on this cooler? Just got it as I said, but I don't wanna scratch up the surface.


dont you have a thermal paste remover?
if you dont then just a couple drops of alcohol and wipe it off with a tissue
add a couple more drops if needed until you completely remove it


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11673587*
> Yeah , i get where your coming from . But then i again i think i have spent thousands on the computer and i have spent alot of my time playing around with this h50 trying out fans , different thermal pastes and positions for the rad . Im not saying they are 100% accurate because they might not be , but under the current circumstances i cant see why it cant be true . If my comp was old and worn out id probably agree with you but the thing is only a few months old and iv taken pride in my computer i always do things properly and the outcome is a good result =) i think the h50 is capable of more than what people think , dont underestimate .. the h50 is an awsome cooler in the right hands =D


Don't get me wrong I'm not knocking your rig or your abilities at all. I'm just making some suggestions based on similar issues I've encountered or read about







Unfortunately I was one of many that had high expectations of the H50 based on all the reviews before I purchased one myself and its seemed to fall short of my expectations. Your right though it is a very capable cooler for most overclockers when used properly.


----------



## Drizzt5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11673229*
> Well my thermometre is only a cheapie so it could be displaying the wrong temperature but only 1-2c off , if that . If its not under than it for sure and certain is ideling at ambient temps =) 3 different programs are telling me the same thing .. Real temp , core temp and cpuz hw monitor.. bios is saying im ideling at 19c also .
> 
> the facts dont lie , just because im ideling at ambients doesnt mean my sesnors are stuffed :s it means iv done a bloody good job putting this thing together


If you have faulty temp sensors then all programs and the bios are going to be wrong.

I am positive that you are not getting below ambient temps for real with any *regular* water or air cooled setup (no chilled water or any of that stuff). Somewhere, something is screwing up.

So anyways, if you really think you did such a good job installing a premade water cooling setup and magically defied physics then lets load up prime95 and see what the temp is for load. Just stand behind some thick glass when you turn it on because at this point we don't know whats going to happen.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;11673583*
> They are not facts, and they do lie. This topic has been covered many times in this thread. Idle temps are NOT accurate. That doesn't mean you haven't done a good job, it just means idle temps especially are not accurate, because of the way CPU temps are "measured".
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/2468/4
> 
> Uncle Web, who wrote RealTemp has spoken about this SO many times:
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=179044&page=10
> 
> A little bit of Google searching will soon tell you the same.


Yeah i know i read about it when u posted the link last time , so if its innacurate for me , its inaccurate for everyone , me , you , him , her . Its a universal reading so we all have the same innacuracy.....

yet iv never seen anyone post up 17 degree celcius idle temps before . They might be innacurate but that is very , very low . Can you get 17c on idle ?

At 4.2Ghz i was ideling mid 30's why does it seem impossible to idle so low at default settings ?


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drizzt5;11673776*
> If you have faulty temp sensors then all programs and the bios are going to be wrong.
> 
> I am positive that you are not getting below ambient temps for real with any *regular* water or air cooled setup (no chilled water or any of that stuff). Somewhere, something is screwing up.
> 
> So anyways, if you really think you did such a good job installing a premade water cooling setup and magically defied physics then lets load up prime95 and see what the temp is for load. Just stand behind some thick glass when you turn it on because at this point we don't know whats going to happen.


Ok i may be wrong about ideling under , but its ideling at ambients . right now its 23c in here and its saying 23c idle .

5 cycles , small ftt .. If i had lower ambients i wuldnt go over 49c , its summer in aus .









cinebench


----------



## Xristo




----------



## Drizzt5

Those load temps are possible, still very good.

Even if you are AT ambient temps at idle... still seems too good for what your using. But hey, at least its actually possible... unlike below ambient.


----------



## Beck-Miester

A couple of things that I noted about Core Temp vs. True Temp. I found that (at least on my Q6600 B3) that the TJMax was identified as 85* on Cire Temp, and 90* on True Temp. My research indicated that the TJMax for the Q6600 B3 was actually 90*, so I ended up having to adjust my offset in Core Temp to reflect the same readings I was getting in True Temp (the ACCURATE) app.

It might be possible that if a negative entry was in your core temp offset, you would end up with temps below ambient (impossible, otherwise). I would check the TJMax for your CPU, and ensure that it is refelected accurately in Core Temp, and if not adjust it up or down to the correct threshold.

As far as my H70's go: I used a razor blade to shave my TIM off, and then used 99% isopropyl to remove any residue. I then lapped it to a mirror shine









It wasn't easy to lap it, given the radiator being attached, but here is what I did:
1) I used a fairly large sheet of glass as my base. I had an old mirror that was sufficient size, so I used that (it was about 24"x24").

2) I started with 800 grit wet/dry automotive sandpaper, and laid it down on the glass. I place a towel over half of the mirror, and ensured that the radiator was well cushioned by it. I poured some water and JUST A DROP of liquid dishsoap onto the sandpaper, and then sanded in a figure 8 pattern for about a 30 seconds to a minute, just to get rid of the burrs. I had to add a little water every little while, to esure that it kept sliding with only a slight amount of resistance. You have to be very careful to keep the HS flat against the surface, since any angled pressure will result in the edge of the HS tearing the paper (even moreso 'cuz its wet)
3) I progressed to 1000 grit, and followed the same process for about 2 minutes...maybe less.
4) I moved to 2000 grit for about the same amount of time, looking at it every now and then, to ensure it was a nice, even finish. You will not get a complete mirror finish this way, but it will actually be fairly reflective, and all you will see at the end of this is a sort of satin shine.
5) I then used some brasso to buff and polish it to a mirror reflective shine. It literally looked like a mirror, without any refraction or distortion...absolutely gorgeous! The toughest part from that point was ensuring that every little bit of polish was removed from the HS surface. It took quite a bit of elbow grease and a lot of clean, lint free white cloths. Only after I was absolutely certain that no more polish remained (no black/discoloration of the cloths..at which point, I continued doing it for about the same length of time again...) did I being the process of installing it.
6) I have read all kinds of different views on the application of TIM, and I have played with pretty much all of them, including the "BB sized" drop in the center of round HS surfaces, but after inspecting the results, I decided to go back to my method. I used a "larger" BB sized drop of AS5 in the center, and then spread it around to cover the entire surface in an even, REALLY thin layer, using another razor blade like a dry-wall trowl. That one dollop managed to cover the entire surface, and even had a substantial amount left over on the blade when I was done.

I dunno what your guy's take on this whole process is, but I am/was happy with the result..

Beck


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drizzt5;11674214*
> Those load temps are possible, still very good.
> 
> Even if you are AT ambient temps at idle... still seems too good for what your using. But hey, at least its actually possible... unlike below ambient.


Of coarse the load temps are possible but low for an i7 from my knowledge , and yes u are right about it actually being possible to idle at ambient temps which is true , as for under ambient i might have been wrong .. My thermometre read 20c idle was 17c .. so that means either could be wrong , im leaning more towards the thermometre cos it only cost $2

My offsets in coretemp are 0-0-0-0 , default .. is that ok ?

haha nice avatar btw


----------



## Paladin Goo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XtachiX;11673726*
> dont you have a thermal paste remover?
> if you dont then just a couple drops of alcohol and wipe it off with a tissue
> add a couple more drops if needed until you completely remove it


I don't have any remover, but I do have isopropyl alcohol.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11674521*
> Of coarse the load temps are possible but low for an i7 from my knowledge , and yes u are right about it actually being possible to idle at ambient temps which is true , as for under ambient i might have been wrong .. My thermometre read 20c idle was 17c .. so that means either could be wrong , im leaning more towards the thermometre cos it only cost $2
> 
> My offsets in coretemp are 0-0-0-0 , default .. is that ok ?
> 
> haha nice avatar btw


I've stated this before idle temps don't mean squat considering their inaccuracy. As for an h50 idling right at ambient temps that is quite a stretch. Even the most extreme full water cooling loops sometimes struggle to idle right at ambient temps. You have to consider that the temps inside your case are going to be at least a few degrees C above ambient temps so unless your H50 is mounted outside the case you will still be blowing above ambient air through the rad. I guess what I'm really trying to say is that it is very difficult to idle right at ambient temps regardless of what cooler you are using. Again idle temps don't mean squat but some people just love to brag about super low idle temps and just disregard that 95% of the time they are wrong lol.

I'm curious what your load temps are at your 4.2GHz oc? I'm sure they are drastically different than your current stock speed temps. I know my E8500 load temps are 10C hotter when I go from 4GHz up to 4.33GHz but even still my max P95 load temps at 4.33GHz top out at 60*C


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t;11674887*
> I've stated this before idle temps don't mean squat considering their inaccuracy. As for an h50 idling right at ambient temps that is quite a stretch. Even the most extreme full water cooling loops sometimes struggle to idle right at ambient temps. You have to consider that the temps inside your case are going to be at least a few degrees C above ambient temps so unless your H50 is mounted outside the case you will still be blowing above ambient air through the rad. I guess what I'm really trying to say is that it is very difficult to idle right at ambient temps regardless of what cooler you are using. Again idle temps don't mean squat but some people just love to brag about super low idle temps and just disregard that 95% of the time they are wrong lol.
> 
> I'm curious what your load temps are at your 4.2GHz oc? I'm sure they are drastically different than your current stock speed temps. I know my E8500 load temps are 10C hotter when I go from 4GHz up to 4.33GHz but even still my max P95 load temps at 4.33GHz top out at 60*C


Im only going from what my monitoring programs are telling me , and thats what i mean ... If my temps are wrong that means yours are wrong too and so are everyone elses that use a h50 then so it doesnt matter if its not accurate or not bcos we all have a guidline to follow and if thats the case my temps seem a little lower than that guideline if you know what i mean , im still ideling 80 from tjmax regardless of how innacurate the temps are ... Just cos it so low doesnt mean its wrong ? at 4.2Ghz i load 70-72c

4.33Ghz @ 60c is nice , but core 2 duos dont run hot like i7s anyway no where near.. so u cant compare really . My mate has his e8500 on 4.1ghz at those temps using a $50 heatsink.


----------



## hitoriko

My H50 just arrived it shall be fitted tonight

This is the best excuse to clean my case and add some cable management


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11675111*
> ]4.33Ghz @ 60c is nice , but core 2 duos dont run hot like i7s anyway no where near.. so u cant compare really . My mate has his e8500 on 4.1ghz at those temps using a $50 heatsink.


I know that of course but I'm not comparing I'm just making a point how much your temps will jump once you hit that certain oc where you need a bump in vcore. I ran 4GHz stable with stock vcore(1.25v) and my max P95 load temps were only in the high 40's but once I went over that 4GHz mark is when I saw a significant jump in load temps. I'm pretty happy with my oc and load temps so I have no reason to complain.


----------



## alancsalt

Your temps closer to tj max are going to be more accurate than temps further away, and they are the temps worth worrying about. Showing 70c to 72c at 4.2 is very good.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11675111*
> If my temps are wrong that means yours are wrong too and so are everyone elses that use a h50 then so it doesnt matter.


No unless someone is using the same exact motherboard and CPU/revision then no one persons readings are ever exactly the same even if they are using the same program.

Now if you and someone else have the same CPU and Revision and Motherboard,revision and bios then you should have the same temps/offset temps but not many here have the same exact setups.


----------



## purduepilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11673406*
> Ok , did as you suggested and the pump feels the same temp as my side panel . Pump is not warm at all . In reality though the pump is going to produce heat one way or another and it will always be just a tad warmer than ambient temps because its an electrical component with moving parts and due to the fact its inside the case not outside in ambient temps =)


Sorry I forgot you were using the H50 and not just an air cooler. Forget what I said.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11673587*
> Yeah , i get where your coming from . But then i again i think i have spent thousands on the computer and i have spent alot of my time playing around with this h50 trying out fans , different thermal pastes and positions for the rad . Im not saying they are 100% accurate because they might not be , but under the current circumstances i cant see why it cant be true . If my comp was old and worn out id probably agree with you but the thing is only a few months old and iv taken pride in my computer i always do things properly and the outcome is a good result =) i think the h50 is capable of more than what people think , dont underestimate .. the h50 is an awsome cooler in the right hands =D


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11675111*
> Im only going from what my monitoring programs are telling me , and thats what i mean ... If my temps are wrong that means yours are wrong too and so are everyone elses that use a h50 then so it doesnt matter if its not accurate or not bcos we all have a guidline to follow and if thats the case my temps seem a little lower than that guideline if you know what i mean , im still ideling 80 from tjmax regardless of how innacurate the temps are ... Just cos it so low doesnt mean its wrong ? at 4.2Ghz i load 70-72c


This is really bad logic. Just because your temperature sensors (What do they use, anyway? Thermocouples?) are inaccurate doesn't mean everyone else's sensors are also inaccurate.


----------



## alancsalt

"The characteristics of the Digital Thermal Sensor (DTS) vary from die to die and each processor DTS is factory calibrated. As a result, given the same TCONTROL setting, not all processors will be at the same silicon temperature when at TCONTROL. Acoustic performance will vary from part to part as a result of this DTS variability. This variability also impacts the number of DTS values that could be reported below TCONTROL. Because of the magnitude of the variation the TCONTROL value was increased. Increasing TCONTROL reduces the range of DTS variability and results in better acoustics. The DTS value is referred to as a DTS Count since one count does not necessarily equal one degree."

http://download.intel.com/design/intarch/PAPERS/322683.pdf

Since the introduction of multi-core chips we only get approximations. A probe can tell you surface temp, but all core temps would seem to be approximations.

A small additional point, but you cannot idle below ambient or at ambient without refrigeration, ln2 or dry ice. When you are cooling your cpu with something that is at room temperature (ambient) it is simply not possible to cool that little heat engine (cpu) to ambient or below.

AMD chips also often report idle temps below ambient. They are incorrect too.

You might think that picky, but that's the fact. It has been debated in this forum a few times. There is plenty of information on this subject on the web. Just do a Google search.


----------



## Xristo

Okkk snap of 15c idle temps..









48c max after half an hour of prime95...


----------



## Kokin

Very nice temps, I was getting 10C idle temps with my window open (4C cold air coming through) and 29C max load on my chip this morning.


----------



## purduepilot

Okay I wandered over to the air cooling forum and found this guy:

Delta High Speed PWM Fan

(I think this one would be a bit ridiculous.







)

Any thoughts or opinions on the delta pwm fan for what]http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/612436-official-corsair-h50-h70-club-1535.html#post11655685what[/URL] I want to do[/url]?


----------



## Xristo

Ok guys 12c idle temps , thermometre says its 17c in here.










20 cycles of linX 50c max , shoots upto default 2.93Ghz during the test. Hyperthreading and turbo are both on.


----------



## slimbrady

sorry i have no faith in coretemp, lol. not saying it's wrong in your case. I just like seeing SS's of more than 1 temp monitor if possible. Is that the only one you ever have used?


----------



## Xristo

read the last 3 pages man , where u been ..core temp , real temp they both have the same temps for me...


----------



## XtachiX

your load temps seem to be ok
its just your idle temps are off
sensor issues


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XtachiX;11678252*
> your load temps seem to be ok
> its just your idle temps are off
> sensor issues


I dont think so dude , right now i am ideling at 20c and thats about even with my ambients maybe abit warmer . On idle its at 1.2Ghz doing nothing using 26w of power i cant see a reason why u seem to think i have sensor issues







as soon as i open up ie explorer or whatever it shoots up to about 26 , 27c . When the cpu is doing nothing it pretty much shuts off saving you power etc theres no reason for it to create heat it was designed not to .

and with my case right next to my aircon , theres no reason why those temps cant be true either . I was freezing in here when i was doing the linx test and got 12c idle ... but its okay i know you will never see 12c idle with your cooler master v8 dont be upset *pats ur back* =p

who knows ....Alot of blood sweat and tears went into tweaking my h50 to this state . So id like to think its right .


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *purduepilot;11677999*
> Okay I wandered over to the air cooling forum and found this guy:
> 
> Delta High Speed PWM Fan
> 
> (I think this one would be a bit ridiculous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Any thoughts or opinions on the delta pwm fan for what]http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/612436-official-corsair-h50-h70-club-1535.html#post11655685what[/URL] I want to do[/url]?


I think everyone is at least somewhat bias when they give you advice regarding fans(I know I certainly am and have in the past). Sounds like you want to have kick ass CFM(remember it needs to stay impressive when it's attached to radiator, not just free-air CFM) without blowing holes in your eardrums.....no easy feat when DB is a large concern for the pc environment.

With that in mind I will say a couple things for you.....
Scythe GTAP15's are the widely accepted solution for most of the members posting in this thread that are trying to achieve similar results as you and I would give them the H50/70 ^user's choice^ award for 2010.

For me they are not enough(though perhaps the higher speed ones would be if they ever release them in U.S.) and I tend to gravitate towards the 38mm" market of fans which is pretty much accepting the inevitability of going deaf by age 50...but at least the speed those precious extra couple MHz you're able to OC because of the fans allows you to recoup a little of the time you'll lose later in life due to deafness-related incidents.
In this market there is not a huge difference in temperature between using any of the competing fans though some have noise envelopes that are preferable to others, though this is highly subjective. I would seriously encourage you to spend a good hour or two at least checking out this thread.
Perhaps that will be more help than anywhere else as it's the most thorough and objective set of tests I've come across.


----------



## Drizzt5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11678350*
> I dont think so dude , right now i am ideling at 20c and thats about even with my ambients maybe abit warmer . On idle its at 1.2Ghz doing nothing using 26w of power i cant see a reason why u seem to think i have sensor issues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as soon as i open up ie explorer or whatever it shoots up to about 26 , 27c . When the cpu is doing nothing it pretty much shuts off saving you power etc theres no reason for it to create heat it was designed not to .
> 
> and with my case right next to my aircon , theres no reason why those temps cant be true either . I was freezing in here when i was doing the linx test and got 12c idle ... but its okay i know you will never see 12c idle with your cooler master v8 dont be upset *pats ur back* =p
> 
> who knows ....Alot of blood sweat and tears went into tweaking my h50 to this state . So id like to think its right .


Ok dude give it a rest. Even if it's true we already told you it is all about the load temps. I feel like your just trolling at this point.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimbrady;11678367*
> I think everyone is at least somewhat bias when they give you advice regarding fans(I know I certainly am and have in the past). Sounds like you want to have kick ass CFM(remember it needs to stay impressive when it's attached to radiator, not just free-air CFM) without blowing holes in your eardrums.....no easy feat when DB is a large concern for the pc environment.
> 
> With that in mind I will say a couple things for you.....
> Scythe GTAP15's are the widely accepted solution for most of the members posting in this thread that are trying to achieve similar results as you and I would give them the H50/70 ^user's choice^ award for 2010.
> 
> For me they are not enough(though perhaps the higher speed ones would be if they ever release them in U.S.) and I tend to gravitate towards the 38mm" market of fans which is pretty much accepting the inevitability of going deaf by age 50...but at least the speed those precious extra couple MHz you're able to OC because of the fans allows you to recoup a little of the time you'll lose later in life due to deafness-related incidents.
> In this market there is not a huge difference in temperature between using any of the competing fans though some have noise envelopes that are preferable to others, though this is highly subjective. I would seriously encourage you to spend a good hour or two at least checking out this thread.
> Perhaps that will be more help than anywhere else as it's the most thorough and objective set of tests I've come across.


66.5 dBA...
You might as well just strap your computer to the top of your car and find an open space to drive around above 50mph. It would be quieter and more airflow.


----------



## seesee

just curious do you guys near a buzzing sound when you put your ears close to the pump?

I keep hearing a throttling sound..

I have noctua p12 on the radiator(Exhaust). I can't seems to determine what is the problem..

The sound is only obvious when I close the casing.. when the casing is open, the sound is not that significant... so hard to trouble shoot..

Should i RMA my noctua fan or H70?

updated:

It seems the pump gives buzzing sound ... is this normal?

The fan is the loudest, especially after closing the casing..


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seesee;11680766*
> just curious do you guys near a buzzing sound when you put your ears close to the pump?
> 
> I keep hearing a throttling sound..
> 
> I am noctua p12 on the radiator. I can't seems to determine what is the problem..
> 
> The sound is only obvious when I close the casing.. when the casing is open, the sound is not that significant... so hard to trouble shoot..
> 
> Should i RMA my noctua fan or H70?


Unplug the fan for a few secs and see if it persists. That would probably be better than unplugging the pump(though that would be ok for a few secs too). If you're unsure which one it is you need to isolate them by turning one of them off.
It would also help to know how you have it mounted since your comment about the case being open/closed could mean more to us then.^^


----------



## Bobehud

Speaking from the 38mm side of the fence i have a pair of Sycthe 38mm 3K's that can be heard from two rooms away if my door isnt shut...BUT..i have it pulling air into the case with an old 120mm fan body shaped and attached as a shroud and it REALLY moves some air.
Now im okay with that im 50 already and can hear just fine,just cant hear what anyone is saying to me unless they get in the room...lol...


----------



## slimbrady

i hear ya =P

and agree they do move some crazy air >







.................


----------



## [email protected]

lol that's insane.. please tell us your temps!


----------



## kidaquarius

Daaaaaang slim!

[tapatalk on android]


----------



## slimbrady

Well, i'm still changing voltages on a daily basis usually so hard to give temps really. But...~4ghz with 1.46-1.52 vcore hasn't gotten me past 47-48 in prime95 runs...pretty happy with that. Idle is finally lower than my mobo temperature idles at as well....


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drizzt5;11680752*
> Ok dude give it a rest. Even if it's true we already told you it is all about the load temps. I feel like your just trolling at this point.


Cool , so if i was ideling at 60c it doesnt matter because its just idle ..Thats what your implying ... No worries , thats great information







i wish i could -rep


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimbrady;11683533*
> Well, i'm still changing voltages on a daily basis usually so hard to give temps really. But...~4ghz with 1.46-1.52 vcore hasn't gotten me past 47-48 in prime95 runs...pretty happy with that. Idle is finally lower than my mobo temperature idles at as well....


Whats your idles ? curious

They are nice load temps for 4ghz phenom , well done . Mmmm uk3 , do want !!


----------



## Spectrus77

Hello guys.... This is my h50.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11685469*
> Whats your idles ? curious
> 
> They are nice load temps for 4ghz phenom , well done . Mmmm uk3 , do want !!


i turned on pc after having off for 20-30 mins and came back 10 mins later and mobo was at 26c and CPU 25c. It is about 15c outside right now because of rain or else it would be 20-25c pretty steadily and i would probably be idling around 27-28c as I don't have A/C and my room gets a little stuffy, especially when stress testing, lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spectrus77;11686365*
> Hello guys.... This is my h50.


Hello and welcome to the forum! Looks great man share your temps and MHz with the group for everyone's benefit xDD
That is not bad for your first post on OCN - cables look decent and no glaring mistakes visible(to me anyway) in your setup/hardware.
Deserve your first rep point^^


----------



## seesee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seesee;11680766*
> just curious do you guys near a buzzing sound when you put your ears close to the pump?
> 
> I keep hearing a throttling sound..
> 
> I have noctua p12 on the radiator(Exhaust). I can't seems to determine what is the problem..
> 
> The sound is only obvious when I close the casing.. when the casing is open, the sound is not that significant... so hard to trouble shoot..
> 
> Should i RMA my noctua fan or H70?
> 
> updated:
> 
> It seems the pump gives buzzing sound ... is this normal?
> 
> The fan is the loudest, especially after closing the casing..


help!


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seesee;11680766*
> just curious do you guys near a buzzing sound when you put your ears close to the pump?
> 
> I keep hearing a throttling sound..
> 
> I have noctua p12 on the radiator(Exhaust). I can't seems to determine what is the problem..
> 
> The sound is only obvious when I close the casing.. when the casing is open, the sound is not that significant... so hard to trouble shoot..
> 
> Should i RMA my noctua fan or H70?
> 
> updated:
> 
> It seems the pump gives buzzing sound ... is this normal?
> 
> The fan is the loudest, especially after closing the casing..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimbrady;11681554*
> Unplug the fan for a few secs and see if it persists. That would probably be better than unplugging the pump(though that would be ok for a few secs too). If you're unsure which one it is you need to isolate them by turning one of them off.
> It would also help to know how you have it mounted since your comment about the case being open/closed could mean more to us then.^^


Also: Pump should not make loud buzzing but this may go away for you. Try giving the hoses a few taps with a pencil or flicking your finger.


----------



## seesee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimbrady;11687174*
> Also: Pump should not make loud buzzing but this may go away for you. Try giving the hoses a few taps with a pencil or flicking your finger.


i did what you told me.. and that is my update..

anyway the pump buzzing sound is when I disconnect the fan & put my ear close to to pump. I want to know if I should near any sound in the first place.


----------



## Drizzt5

How about this setup... Starting from the outside of the case in for airflow and order
1. Yateloon,
2. *case*
3. stock corsair fan
4. rad
5. Yateloon

Do you think that would have a negative effect at all or maybe some positive? I could also just put an empty fan case on the outside to hold up the interior fans/rad...


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seesee;11688105*
> i did what you told me.. and that is my update..
> 
> anyway the pump buzzing sound is when I disconnect the fan & put my ear close to to pump. I want to know if I should near any sound in the first place.


oh i see, sorry then I was misunderstanding....

Anyway, all I can tell ya is that I have an H70 that should've arrived at Corsair's RMA dept today for that exact same thing pretty much...Used the unit for a good 3 months with no problems then one day I switched it from mobo header to Molex and BAM buzzing sound noisy as all hell started emanating from the pump.
Corsair advised me to send the unit in for RMA so I would advise you to do the same. Maybe it will work fine for 3 years...maybe it won't. I like to err on the side of caution when it comes to water inside my case and devices cooling my processor, hehe.
If you have some money you can get an 'advanced RMA'(i think it's called) and they will send you a new one before they receive your faulty one so you're never without cooling....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drizzt5;11688111*
> How about this setup... Starting from the outside of the case in for airflow and order
> 1. Yateloon,
> 2. *case*
> 3. stock corsair fan
> 4. rad
> 5. Yateloon
> 
> Do you think that would have a negative effect at all or maybe some positive? I could also just put an empty fan case on the outside to hold up the interior fans/rad...


I don't like to see fans run in series if they are different RPM/Make/Blade count etc.....it's one thing to run a couple of the same kind in series as this is an effective method of adding static pressure but even that has it's limits unless you get counter-sunk fans etc....I've never taken engineering classes on the subject but it seems like the stock fan would be wreaking havoc on the airflow your yates are trying produce. Could shorten the life of your fans by a great deal for little to no real gain in cooling. Better off gutting that stock fan and making it into a shroud. That's what I would do anyway, but of course do what you wanna do xDDDD


----------



## t77snapshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spectrus77;11686365*
> Hello guys.... This is my h50.


One of the best looking Tempests out there! looks sick bro:cheers:


----------



## Drizzt5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimbrady;11688302*
> 
> I don't like to see fans run in series if they are different RPM/Make/Blade count etc.....it's one thing to run a couple of the same kind in series as this is an effective method of adding static pressure but even that has it's limits unless you get counter-sunk fans etc....I've never taken engineering classes on the subject but it seems like the stock fan would be wreaking havoc on the airflow your yates are trying produce. Could shorten the life of your fans by a great deal for little to no real gain in cooling. Better off gutting that stock fan and making it into a shroud. That's what I would do anyway, but of course do what you wanna do xDDDD


I agree. I have a shroud that I'll just use, and save the stock fan for later if I need it.

Does it matter if I leave the cpu fan connector on the mobo empty?


----------



## J-Gamer_builder

what is difference between H50/70 and regular WC kit like for exemple XSPC rasa 750 RS240 kit?


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drizzt5;11688442*
> I agree. I have a shroud that I'll just use, and save the stock fan for later if I need it.
> 
> Does it matter if I leave the cpu fan connector on the mobo empty?


Your bios may halt you on error if it's set up to do that but you can disable that warning if you like....no reason why you have to have that header filled other than that. Better off running it on molex except yoiu lose throttling capabilities so keep that in mind.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *J-Gamer_builder;11689682*
> what is difference between H50/70 and regular WC kit like for exemple XSPC rasa 750 RS240 kit?


The Rasa kit is not a 'closed-loop' system and though it makes W/Cing easier than traditionally it still requires some upkeep and maintenance.
There is no maintenance with the H50/70.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *J-Gamer_builder;11689682*
> what is difference between H50/70 and regular WC kit like for exemple XSPC rasa 750 RS240 kit?


The regular WC kit might be a bit more hands on, but will probably reward you with lower temperatures. Depends what you want to do. If you are extremely overclocking oriented the XSPC kit might be more appealing.


----------



## Xristo

So today i overvolted the stock corsair fan to 24v and added shrouds , its currently running fine at roughly 3000rpm and has been for hours...i tried an antec fan and it died on me within 5 minutes . I did some benching again and this is what i achieved ..

3.2Ghz 48c max linX ..ht/turbo on










4.2Ghz Wprime 1024m 62c max ..Ht/turbo on


----------



## J-Gamer_builder

so H50/70 is better if you don't wanna OC verry much or what


----------



## XtachiX

h50/h50 compares with mid range to best air coolers out there (so to speak)
real water cooling tends to decrease temperatures even further than h50/70/air cooling
so you could say that the entry level of water cooling would be h50/h70 or the kool it kit that is like the h50/h70


----------



## Xristo

so this corsair fan seems to be fine running at 24v , its been on all day and still goin strong .


----------



## seesee

hmm I am thinking of replacing Noctua P12 with Gentle Typhoon.

Noctua P12 seems go give a whaling sound when the case is close...

I don't understand why too... do you think I should RMA it first?


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


So today i overvolted the stock corsair fan to 24v and added shrouds , its currently running fine at roughly 3000rpm and has been for hours...i tried an antec fan and it died on me within 5 minutes . I did some benching again and this is what i achieved ..

4.2Ghz Wprime 1024m 62c max ..Ht/turbo on












Hey can you run a Wprime 1024m at 4.2GHz with Ht/turbo on with the fan at 12v? I'm curious to see how much you gained buy running it at 24v.


----------



## Xristo

Ill do that when i got some time , it defintaly made a decrease in temps thats for sure it literally spins twice as fast .. it screams , very loud ...but it seems to be happy running constantly at these volts







i will be using it at this speed 24/7 so ill see how long it holds up .


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


Ill do that when i got some time , it defintaly made a decrease in temps thats for sure it literally spins twice as fast .. it screams , very loud ...but it seems to be happy running constantly at these volts







i will be using it at this speed 24/7 so ill see how long it holds up .


When you do run the test again try and make sure the ambient temps are close to what they were when you ran the first test so we can see a more accurate difference.


----------



## kidaquarius

I have a Cooler Master V8 cooling an i7 950 currently overclocked to 4GHz w/ HT on.
Idle temps are about 43C. 
Load temps from 78-83C.

Would switching to a H50 yield a significant reduction in temperatures?

Would I need to push/pull or would a single fan acting as exhaust work?

[tapatalk on android]


----------



## XtachiX

well, you will notice temp differences if you use good fans with very good static pressure and mid range to high range cfm
push pull config is required for best heat dispatching


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kidaquarius*


I have a Cooler Master V8 cooling an i7 950 currently overclocked to 4GHz w/ HT on.
Idle temps are about 43C. 
Load temps from 78-83C.

Would switching to a H50 yield a significant reduction in temperatures?

Would I need to push/pull or would a single fan acting as exhaust work?

[tapatalk on android]


According to this review the H50 with the stock fan is about 2C better than the V8 on an i7 oc'd to 3.5GHz. So take off maybe another 2-3C by going with good fans in push/pull possibly with a shroud if you can fit it.

H50 i7 Test

Again another test on a quad core with the stock fan on the H50 and its load temps are 2C better than the V8

H50 Quad Core

Depending on your current fan config on your V8 you should see at least a few degrees difference by going with the H50 and even more if you get some good fans and go push/pull on the H50


----------



## kidaquarius

Ok, awesome. Thanks for the responses.

Right now, in conjunction with the V8, I have two 120mm Antec intake fans and the same 120mm Antec for exhaust (no controller for them, so they hum along pretty well).

The V8 is new to me and I bought it from a local Micro Center. I'm thinking of exchanging it for the H50 and paying the $20 cost difference.

I was hoping that eventually I would be able to replace the Antecs with a more mellow setup to reduce the constant hum coming from the box.

To be honest, the added dbs don't bother me, but I can't always hear the wife clearly when she's asking me a question from the other room.

*picture for reference
**One intake fan in front of 3.5" bay, the other mounted inside 5.25" bay.









[tapatalk on android]


----------



## [email protected]

nice motherboard dude.. she's a beast huh? I recommend you get a full tower.. looks cramped there.. i'd be concerned for airflow too but hey it looks just fine. I hate the sight of a motherboard so close to the floor of the case lol.

You can always install sound dampening kits from frozen cpu to reduce the noise so you don't have your wife bickering how you cannot hear her across the room and blame the pc lol.


----------



## kidaquarius

You know, I was really against a new/big case.
I like my Elite 335.
However, I've come to realize that having a bigger case has its benefits.
I was thinking a Cooler Master Storm/Sniper. Or whatever it's called.
Looks BA and would give me some more room and maybe better cooling.
I'm an all black kind of guy. Low key. I loathe *fancy* cases and glitzy stuff.
Like this:









[tapatalk on android]


----------



## [email protected]

I just like looking at my own computer parts. Besides it helps me spot if i see anything wrong


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidaquarius;11693396*
> I have a Cooler Master V8 cooling an i7 950 currently overclocked to 4GHz w/ HT on.
> Idle temps are about 43C.
> Load temps from 78-83C.
> 
> Would switching to a H50 yield a significant reduction in temperatures?
> 
> Would I need to push/pull or would a single fan acting as exhaust work?
> 
> [tapatalk on android]


i7 at 4.2Ghz .. 62c load , you tell me which yields better performance ..Thats 20c of your cooler master v8 with an extra 200mhz... Im confident i could achieve lower temps also .


----------



## kidaquarius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11695584*
> i7 at 4.2Ghz .. 62c load , you tell me which yields better performance ..Thats 20c of your cooler master v8 with an extra 200mhz... Im confident i could achieve lower temps also .


Hell yeah.

[tapatalk on android]


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidaquarius;11695741*
> Hell yeah.
> 
> [tapatalk on android]


Get rid of the v8 , get yourself a h50 with 2 really good low db push/pull fans if noise is a concern iv personally used the noctua s12b and they are silent..you should be rockin at 4.2Ghz in the mid/high 70's .. Get some powerful fans , shrouds , some good thermal paste and u will never look at the coolermaster again guarenteed . The h50 has alot of potential in the right hands , keeps up with some of the custom wc loops .


----------



## kidaquarius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11695828*
> Get rid of the v8 , get yourself a h50 with 2 really good low db push/pull fans if noise is a concern iv personally used the noctua s12b and they are silent..you should be rockin at 4.2Ghz in the mid/high 70's .. Get some powerful fans , shrouds , some good thermal paste and u will never look at the coolermaster again guarenteed . The h50 has alot of potential in the right hands , keeps up with some of the custom wc loops .


Yeah, I've decided to make the exchange.
While I'm there, I will pick up some upgraded fans for the radiator.
Still haven't decided if I'm going to but a new case.

[tapatalk on android]


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidaquarius;11695851*
> Yeah, I've decided to make the exchange.
> While I'm there, I will pick up some upgraded fans for the radiator.
> Still haven't decided if I'm going to but a new case.
> 
> [tapatalk on android]










Awsome , let us know how u go with your new cooler


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11695584*
> i7 at 4.2Ghz .. 62c load , you tell me which yields better performance ..Thats 20c of your cooler master v8 with an extra 200mhz... Im confident i could achieve lower temps also .


Have you ever run IBT or Linx at 4.2GHz? I'd like to see a screenie with your temps. The two stress test you ran at 4.2GHz barely warm up a cpu.

Heres my wprime at 4.33GHz with a much warmer ambient (21C) than some of your previous tests. I'm not comparing my temps with yours I'm just making a point that wprime barely heats up a cpu and its not your magical H50 doing all the work.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11695828*
> The h50 has alot of potential in the right hands , keeps up with some of the custom wc loops.


The H50 may keep up with some of the bottom of the barrel garbage wc loops but thats about it. From all the threads and reviews I've read any decent custom wc loop using a 240mm rad should run about 8-10C (if not more) cooler on an oc'd cpu than the H50. Its people like you that give others false hope in the H50. Its about as good as the top air coolers out there and thats about it.


----------



## Drizzt5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t;11697586*
> Have you ever run IBT or Linx at 4.2GHz? I'd like to see a screenie with your temps. The two stress test you ran at 4.2GHz barely warm up a cpu.
> 
> Heres my wprime at 4.33GHz with a much warmer ambient (21C) than some of your previous tests. I'm not comparing my temps with yours I'm just making a point that wprime barely heats up a cpu and its not your magical H50 doing all the work.
> 
> The H50 may keep up with some of the bottom of the barrel garbage wc loops but thats about it. From all the threads and reviews I've read any decent custom wc loop using a 240mm rad should run about 8-10C (if not more) cooler on an oc'd cpu than the H50. Its people like you that give others false hope in the H50. Its about as good as the top air coolers out there and thats about it.


Thats just because you don't have magical hands. Get magical hands and you will drop 20C's and idle below ambient temps! Here is a screenshot proving it!
My ambient temps were 27c's.









Trust me, the h50 defies the laws of physics! You just need magical hands.

Mega sarcasm


----------



## alancsalt

roflmao


----------



## Mako0312

Is the H70 worth the money over the H50. I will be running a i7-970 on a ASUS Rampage III Formula.


----------



## [email protected]

Yea a few degrees cooler, Do it.. the H70 has much more bigger rad anyways.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t;11697586*
> Have you ever run IBT or Linx at 4.2GHz? I'd like to see a screenie with your temps. The two stress test you ran at 4.2GHz barely warm up a cpu.
> 
> Heres my wprime at 4.33GHz with a much warmer ambient (21C) than some of your previous tests. I'm not comparing my temps with yours I'm just making a point that wprime barely heats up a cpu and its not your magical H50 doing all the work.
> 
> 
> 
> The H50 may keep up with some of the bottom of the barrel garbage wc loops but thats about it. From all the threads and reviews I've read any decent custom wc loop using a 240mm rad should run about 8-10C (if not more) cooler on an oc'd cpu than the H50. Its people like you that give others false hope in the H50. Its about as good as the top air coolers out there and thats about it.


If you think so , im not giving false hope to nobody







the h50 is a good cooler and is very capable , depending on the environment , fans , thermal paste and it just has the advantage of being able to suck air in from outside the case instead of warm air floating in the case . The h50 ****s on any aircooler i know if , if you think otherwise .. good for you , go back to aircooling if its so great :s

have a read of these ..
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=619992
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=323937
http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/water-cooling/35961-water-cooling-temps-your-opinions.html
http://www.3dgameman.com/forum/overclocking-cooling/liquid-cooling-i7-920-temps-w-overclocking-42ghz

None of these custom watercooling setups have temps like i do , if they do its roughly the same and not worth $400+ to go custom water if the h50 can do the same lets put it that way .


----------



## KaOSoFt

How about noise-wise? I for instance am a little afraid of it. While of course I wouldn't ask (or care much) about higher noise levels while playing, I'd love to have a relatively quiet system otherwise.

And sorry for my ignorance, but what is a "shroud"? I'm not a native english speaker, and though I found the meaning of the word, I would like to see it to understand the why and the what.

Thanks!


----------



## kidaquarius

I'm not looking for miracles once I go to an H50.
Hopefully it can keep load temps under 80C @ 4.2GHz with my i7.
I'm using Intel Burn-In Test and Prime95 for stress testing.

Right now with the V8, load temps are approximately 88C on all cores (update from my previous post; I tested things again last night and temps were much higher then I estimated before).

I'm in Michigan too, so it's cold outside and I keep the house at 17C/64F.

If the H50 can keep my i7 sub-80C under load, I would be happy.
Am I asking for a miracle here?

[tapatalk on android]


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11700940*
> If you think so , im not giving false hope to nobody
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the h50 is a good cooler and is very capable , depending on the environment , fans , thermal paste and it just has the advantage of being able to suck air in from outside the case instead of warm air floating in the case . The h50 ****s on any aircooler i know if , if you think otherwise .. good for you , go back to aircooling if its so great :s
> 
> None of these custom watercooling setups have temps like i do , if they do its roughly the same and not worth $400+ to go custom water if the h50 can do the same lets put it that way .


Those threads are moot especially this one Linx HT on where he is running linx with HT on. You can't compare your temps to his cause your using 2 totally different stress test and his ambients are 5C warmer than yours. I'd love to see you run LinX at 4.2GHz with HT on. Im sure your temps would be much different than wprime or P95 especially with HT on.

As for air coolers the dam graph YOU posted earlier in this thread has 5 air coolers on it that beat the H50. Pay attention before you go shooting off at the mouth or err keyboard lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidaquarius;11701233*
> I'm not looking for miracles once I go to an H50.
> Hopefully it can keep load temps under 80C @ 4.2GHz with my i7.
> I'm using Intel Burn-In Test and Prime95 for stress testing.
> 
> Right now with the V8, load temps are approximately 88C on all cores (update from my previous post; I tested things again last night and temps were much higher then I estimated before).
> 
> [tapatalk on android]


Is that 88C load temps using Intel Burn Test? That program heats up a cpu like no body's business. What are your P95 load temps. The H50 is a better cooler than the V8 especially in the right hands lol. Seriously though you should see a decent drop in temps with the H50. I would think in the ballpark of 3-5C if you push/pull with some decent fans maybe even more.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11700940*
> If you think so , im not giving false hope to nobody
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the h50 is a good cooler and is very capable , depending on the environment , fans , thermal paste and it just has the advantage of being able to suck air in from outside the case instead of warm air floating in the case . The h50 ****s on any aircooler i know if , if you think otherwise .. good for you , go back to aircooling if its so great :s
> 
> None of these custom watercooling setups have temps like i do , if they do its roughly the same and not worth $400+ to go custom water if the h50 can do the same lets put it that way .


So why not run Prime95 and LinX and show the results ..... ?


----------



## kidaquarius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t;11701417*
> ...Is that 88C load temps using Intel Burn Test? That program heats up a cpu like no body's business. What are your P95 load temps. The H50 is a better cooler than the V8 especially in the right hands lol. Seriously though you should see a decent drop in temps with the H50. I would think in the ballpark of 3-5C if you push/pull with some decent fans maybe even more.


88C load with Intel Burn.
That's the program I use for most testing. It's always worked well for me.
P95 is around 88C as well, maybe a shade lower.
I use Core Temp and HW Monitor to watch the temps.

[tapatalk on android]


----------



## Spct

I love popping into this thread and reading the naysayers about the H50/H70.

Truth is the H50, being used my moderate o/c'ers performs well and we prefer the clean look and open design of the setup. I realize it's not the ultimate and there are air coolers that meet or exceed the H50's performance but for me the H50 is perfect.

I really enjoy the guys that say when you really stress the cpu the H50 blows... not in a good way... LOL. SO WHAT.

Kinda like the green guys popping into the red threads and say na na nanana... green rulzs red drools... (or vice versa)

We like what we like, leave us alone.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spct;11701952*
> I love popping into this thread and reading the naysayers about the H50/H70.
> 
> Truth is the H50, being used my moderate o/c'ers performs well and we prefer the clean look and open design of the setup. I realize it's not the ultimate and there are air coolers that meet or exceed the H50's performance but for me the H50 is perfect.
> 
> I really enjoy the guys that say when you really stress the cpu the H50 blows... not in a good way... LOL. SO WHAT.
> 
> Kinda like the green guys popping into the red threads and say na na nanana... green rulzs red drools... (or vice versa)
> 
> We like what we like, leave us alone.


If your referring to me I'm not bashing the H50 at all. Its got my E8500 running 4.33GHz 24/7 and keeps it nice and cool. Its just a few people in here speak a little too highly of it and may be giving others too high of expectations of it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidaquarius;11701849*
> 88C load with Intel Burn.
> That's the program I use for most testing. It's always worked well for me.
> P95 is around 88C as well, maybe a shade lower.
> I use Core Temp and HW Monitor to watch the temps.
> 
> [tapatalk on android]


Something don't sound right if P95 is running almost the same temps as IBT. Every cpu I've ever tested IBT has run much hotter than a P95 though I haven't test an i7 yet. Personally when I run P95 my temps are about 15C lower than my IBT temps. Either way you can't go wrong with the H50


----------



## Drizzt5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spct;11701952*
> I love popping into this thread and reading the naysayers about the H50/H70.
> 
> Truth is the H50, being used my moderate o/c'ers performs well and we prefer the clean look and open design of the setup. I realize it's not the ultimate and there are air coolers that meet or exceed the H50's performance but for me the H50 is perfect.
> 
> I really enjoy the guys that say when you really stress the cpu the H50 blows... not in a good way... LOL. SO WHAT.
> 
> Kinda like the green guys popping into the red threads and say na na nanana... green rulzs red drools... (or vice versa)
> 
> We like what we like, leave us alone.


I don't think anyone in the thread is saying it is bad. I haven't seen any.
There are just a few people trying to point out that someone in this thread is over hyping the performance of it. We don't want people to have high expectations and then come in this thread *****ing about how they only dropped 5c's from an aircooler, but expected 20c's.
And I am not saying 5c's is not a good drop in temps

*Inserts joke about magical hands*


----------



## kidaquarius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t;11702053*
> ...Something don't sound right if P95 is running almost the same temps as IBT. Every cpu I've ever tested IBT has run much hotter than a P95 though I haven't test an i7 yet. Personally when I run P95 my temps are about 15C lower than my IBT temps. Either way you can't go wrong with the H50


You know, I am going off memory, which usually doesn't fail me, but I could be wrong.

Tonight, I will retest and update here.

If I can drop 5 degrees using IBT I'll be elated.

[tapatalk on android]


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidaquarius;11702579*
> 
> If I can drop 5 degrees using IBT I'll be elated.
> 
> [tapatalk on android]


I think 5 degrees should be doable. Keep us posted after you install it and let us know what fans you went with.


----------



## TARRCO

Cpu idle temps are - 22, 29, 26, 21
Load temps - (after 12hours of prime) 51,43,49,43
That's with the fan on lowest setting using the 600T fan controller



















That's just ya standard push, no pull.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TARRCO;11706747*
> Cpu idle temps are - 22, 29, 26, 21
> Load temps - (after 12hours of prime) 51,43,49,43
> That's with the fan on lowest setting using the 600T fan controller
> 
> That's just ya standard push, no pull.


What fan are you running? It looks like a 38mm to me. I love the drive bay fan.







I've been wanting to rig something like that up in my case for a long time.


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

I'm going to be putting my rig together soon. Does anyone know the best way to mount the h70?


----------



## TARRCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t;11706855*
> What fan are you running? It looks like a 38mm but it might just be the pic angle. I love the drive bay fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been wanting to rig something like that up in my case for a long time.


Here's the fan - link

and it was very easy to put that fan, it's being held by double-sided tape haha


















Cheers.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drizzt5;11702122*
> I don't think anyone in the thread is saying it is bad. I haven't seen any.
> There are just a few people trying to point out that someone in this thread is over hyping the performance of it. We don't want people to have high expectations and then come in this thread *****ing about how they only dropped 5c's from an aircooler, but expected 20c's.
> And I am not saying 5c's is not a good drop in temps
> 
> *Inserts joke about magical hands*


Im not over hyping the performance of anything , iv stated multiple times that the h50 out of the box is nothing better than a good aircooler but change a few things and it could be alot better ..Is that hard for you to understand ?

I have:
*Lapped my cpu and the block of the h50
*Customised the back plate so i can tighten the pump a little more
*Im using as5 thermal compound , not the **** itsu .
*Overvolted my push/pull fans to 24v
*added shrouds
*Air conditioned room

All these things have made a good thing better , i have done prime95 small ftt's at 4.2Ghz and it maxed out at 76c but it bsod on the 6th test so im assuming i need abit more voltage to complete that .. I also tried p95 at 4Ghz and it didnt climb over 68c in blend test ..As far as im concerned thats better than any aircooler on the market .

The h50 has more potential than an aircooler , leave it as that . Im not saying its a miracle cooler im saying its really good for the price and with a few mods it can leave top of the line aircoolers for dead . Simple as that .

Can you source cold air from outside the case with your megahalem copper heatsink stuck to your motherboard :s ? it will have second hand cool air blowing in from a side panel fan or the front intake fans but its always restricted because its in the case and it will never see under case temp and theres nothing you can do about it where as the h50 can be rear mounted as an intake and you get lots of nice cool air straight from outside the case , i could go on all day about this subject but i cbf arguing with little noobs over the internet .


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11707139*
> Im not over hyping the performance of anything , iv stated multiple times that the h50 out of the box is nothing better than a good aircooler but change a few things and it could be alot better ..Is that hard for you to understand ?
> 
> I have:
> *Lapped my cpu and the block of the h50
> *Customised the back plate so i can tighten the pump a little more
> *Im using as5 thermal compound , not the **** itsu .
> *Overvolted my push/pull fans to 24v
> *added shrouds
> *Air conditioned room
> 
> All these things have made a good thing better , i have done prime95 small ftt's at 4.2Ghz and it maxed out at 76c but it bsod on the 6th test so im assuming i need abit more voltage to complete that .. I also tried p95 at 4Ghz and it didnt climb over 68c in blend test ..As far as im concerned thats better than any aircooler on the market .
> 
> The h50 has more potential than an aircooler , leave it as that . Im not saying its a miracle cooler im saying its really good for the price and with a few mods it can leave top of the line aircoolers for dead . Simple as that .
> 
> Can you source cold air from outside the case with your megahalem copper heatsink stuck to your motherboard :s ? it will have second hand cool air blowing in from a side panel fan or the front intake fans but its always restricted because its in the case and it will never see under case temp and theres nothing you can do about it where as the h50 can be rear mounted as an intake and you get lots of nice cool air straight from outside the case , i could go on all day about this subject but i cbf arguing with little noobs over the internet .


The only thing I'm going to poke at in your reply is that even P95 small fft's don't heat up a cpu like IBT or LinX atleast on any of my test's. Did you run HT on with that test? Your BSOD is most likely a lack of vcore so I'd have to assume to get it stable your temps will also increase with the added voltage. And just so you know AS5 is no longer considered a top TIM anymore. There are much better TIM's out there including the Shin Etsu that comes on the H50 from the factory although they do spread it on a bit too thick.


----------



## Xristo

Thats fair enough , from my experience as5 is better than shin etsu .. It would of been okay if they supplied you with a tube of the stuff with the h50 so when u have to reseat your pump u can reapply **** etsu but you got to go out and buy an aftermarket solution and as5 is more than good enough and the difference between to 2 would be so minor its not worth the worry .

As for itb and linx , they are very heavy stress tests . Im confident i could pass linx under 80c load at 4.2Ghz i just need to sort out my voltages before i try that out . I will post up screenies when i do so .

Sorry if u think im giving missleading information , but iv been on other forums and users have said " H50 is not good if u plan to overclock " people hitting 80c load at 3.6Ghz because they got it setup alll wrong =) im trying to hand over my advice hoping other people will achieve better results thats all .


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11707804*
> Thats fair enough , from my experience as5 is better than shin etsu .. It would of been okay if they supplied you with a tube of the stuff with the h50 so when u have to reseat your pump u can reapply **** etsu but you got to go out and buy an aftermarket solution and as5 is more than good enough and the difference between to 2 would be so minor its not worth the worry .
> 
> As for itb and linx , they are very heavy stress tests . Im confident i could pass linx under 80c load at 4.2Ghz i just need to sort out my voltages before i try that out . I will post up screenies when i do so .


Actually I get better temps with OCZ Freeze than I do with Shin Etsu personally. I've tried the AS5 but it was 2C warmer than the OCZ Freeze even after it was fully cured. Are you still running HT when you ran the P95 small fft's? I like using IBT just to check my temps and if they are good with IBT then I know they will be more than great with most other stress test.


----------



## Xristo

yes ht and turbo are always on , no point in decreasing performance thats not the aim .


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TARRCO;11706888*
> Here's the fan - link
> 
> and it was very easy to put that fan, it's being held by double-sided tape haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers.


My drive bays run from top to bottom so I don't have a gap in them to fit a fan like that but when I pull everything apart next week to sleeve some cables I'm going to see what I can come up with to get more cool air pushed up towards my H50. I may even experiment with the H50 pulling in cold air from outside the case but my temps are pretty good already so I really don't need to


----------



## csscmaster3

/

Just got my H70...it keeps my i7 950 nice and cool


----------



## logan666

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/6099/60300572.png heres my temps after 20 runs on ibt my room temps around 80 85f


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csscmaster3;11709721*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> /
> 
> Just got my H70...it keeps my i7 950 nice and cool


Is the only reason you put one fan on the outside because you wouldn't have enough room on the inside?


----------



## csscmaster3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gohan_Nightwing;11709869*
> Is the only reason you put one fan on the outside because you wouldn't have enough room on the inside?


It would have been too hard to put the waterblock on if the rad was mounted fully inside the case, I will be moving the rad later after I make sure everything works


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csscmaster3;11710021*
> It would have been too hard to put the waterblock on if the rad was mounted fully inside the case, I will be moving the rad later after I make sure everything works


Ahhhh. That makes sense... I wish Corsair would make a vid on how to put it all inside easily so you wouldn't have that kind of problem


----------



## DSG

I wasn't sure where on the forum to ask this question but considering all of the people in this thread are going to own and have experience with the H50 and H70, why not ask here...

I'm getting the EVGA P55 Classified 200 Motherboard soon and I planned on putting a H70 on it, all inside a Corsair 600T case. However, on another forum I saw a thread in which someone was planning on using the same setup, and it concluded with there possibly not being enough headroom for the H70's radiator/fan configuration due to either the case or the motherboard, or a combination of both. Does anybody know how I could find out whether I'll be able to use this configuration or if I'm going to run into a problem with the H70 not fitting? Also, if such is the case, would the H50 theoretically not work either? Thanks for the help!


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Does anyone use a fan filter for your intake fan on their h70? If so, which one, and how much does it affect your air intake/cooling?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gohan_Nightwing*


Does anyone use a fan filter for your intake fan on their h70? If so, which one, and how much does it affect your air intake/cooling?


http://www.demcifilter.com/

None

On my H50.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DSG*


I wasn't sure where on the forum to ask this question but considering all of the people in this thread are going to own and have experience with the H50 and H70, why not ask here...

I'm getting the EVGA P55 Classified 200 Motherboard soon and I planned on putting a H70 on it, all inside a Corsair 600T case. However, on another forum I saw a thread in which someone was planning on using the same setup, and it concluded with there possibly not being enough headroom for the H70's radiator/fan configuration due to either the case or the motherboard, or a combination of both. Does anybody know how I could find out whether I'll be able to use this configuration or if I'm going to run into a problem with the H70 not fitting? Also, if such is the case, would the H50 theoretically not work either? Thanks for the help!



I'm not going to bother doing math because I really try to avoid when I'm able to but perhaps I can help anyway...

More info would help....like we're basically going to need to know 2 things(damn-it addition snuck up on me







) Where are you planning to mount the radiator? What fans/shroud mods(if any) could you conceive yourself trying? Compared to most cooling that's not custom W/C setup, the Hydra series has a very small cpu block and interferes hardly at all with most RAM fans/nb coolers etc..but the hoses may need some tweaking if you have either of those cooling devices in-between the radiator and the cpu block, but probably it will be fine.

Ok so...if you're planning on doing the default setup that corsair recommends: radiator in top left of case to intake cooler outside air(though still might grab some warm air if you have rear-exhaust GPU(s) etc..) then the H-70 is probably less likely to interfere with your fan(s) shroud(s) etc...because the CPU block is extremely shallow compared to the H50's. However, as far as mounting goes, the downside is that the hoses are noticeably shorter than the H50's. So if you're planning on mounting the Rad towards the front of the case as an intake you might have better luck with the H50(although I was still able to reach my top 5.25 bays in HAF-X with H70+shrouds-but I would have preferred reaching the bottom bays instead but couldn't).

It's very hard to answer if it will fit with a yes or no. Too many variables and who knows what a slight tweak hear or there can gain you....maybe if someone here is using the exact same hardware they give you a definite answer but other than that it's going to be a guess most likely. 
I will say that this forum hasn't contained any rants about the H50/H70 being too big or not fitting, at least none that I'm aware of. 
Hope that helped a little - you most likely can fit it though you may have to be slightly unconventional when you mount everything - but within reason i'm sure. Good luck!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gohan_Nightwing*


Does anyone use a fan filter for your intake fan on their h70? If so, which one, and how much does it affect your air intake/cooling?



I have the silverstone 120mm fan filters you can get at Fry's and noticed it did a nice job dampening the sound(somewhat, LOL) of my UK3K's. Have not really seen any noticeable difference when I remove it to blow it off other than audibly. Most of the dust is going to get stopped on the radiator if you don't use a filter but that's much more delicate and harder to clean well IMHO than a plastic filter I can run under the sink.


----------



## DSG

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *slimbrady*   I'm not going to bother doing math because I really try to avoid when I'm able to but perhaps I can help anyway...

More info would help....like we're basically going to need to know 2 things(damn-it addition snuck up on me







) Where are you planning to mount the radiator? What fans/shroud mods(if any) could you conceive yourself trying? Compared to most cooling that's not custom W/C setup, the Hydra series has a very small cpu block and interferes hardly at all with most RAM fans/nb coolers etc..but the hoses may need some tweaking if you have either of those cooling devices in-between the radiator and the cpu block, but probably it will be fine.

Ok so...if you're planning on doing the default setup that corsair recommends: radiator in top left of case to intake cooler outside air(though still might grab some warm air if you have rear-exhaust GPU(s) etc..) then the H-70 is probably less likely to interfere with your fan(s) shroud(s) etc...because the CPU block is extremely shallow compared to the H50's. However, as far as mounting goes, the downside is that the hoses are noticeably shorter than the H50's. So if you're planning on mounting the Rad towards the front of the case as an intake you might have better luck with the H50(although I was still able to reach my top 5.25 bays in HAF-X with H70+shrouds-but I would have preferred reaching the bottom bays instead but couldn't).

It's very hard to answer if it will fit with a yes or no. Too many variables and who knows what a slight tweak hear or there can gain you....maybe if someone here is using the exact same hardware they give you a definite answer but other than that it's going to be a guess most likely. 
I will say that this forum hasn't contained any rants about the H50/H70 being too big or not fitting, at least none that I'm aware of. 
Hope that helped a little - you most likely can fit it though you may have to be slightly unconventional when you mount everything - but within reason i'm sure. Good luck!  
I planned on doing the default method of setting up the H70, which is on the 120mm backfan of the 600T case. The problem isn't really the water block on the CPU, but the actual huge radiator being mounted onto the case and the two fans pushing it further overhead of the motherboard. Here's a picture of the motherboard to better display the issue:

http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/1...76call05or.jpg

See how the northbridge's heatsink is so close to the CPU socket and so close to the I/O area? I've been seeing issues with people not being able to mount a H50 or H70 because the radiator would interfere with this heatsink on the motherboard. For further reference, I was looking elsewhere for CPU coolers and looked on Noctua's website for their NH-D14's compatibility with motherboards, and this very motherboard (EVGA P55/1156 socket Classified 200) is noted as not being compatible, while most other EVGA motherboards there with northbridge heatsinks likely just as big as the one on this motherboard were noted as having minimal-adjustable compatibility (for example, only being able to mount horizontally).

On the other hand, I came across the following video:

  
 You Tube  



 
Pair that up with a picture of the motherboard he's using there:

http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/5...62call03mm.jpg

And you can clearly see that based on the picture there should be even LESS headroom for the H70 configuration, especially in comparison to the motherboard I have with a seemingly lower profile northbridge based on these pictures.

Hopefully that clears things up a bit more to allow for some better assistance, although your response was very helpful in ensuring that the profile of the water block on the H70 shouldn't be anything to worry about, among everything else you covered.


----------



## slimbrady

OK, yeah i have a better understanding now of your concern. Unfortunately I don't believe anyone that has posted in this thread, so far, is using that exact setup. Pulled THISoff the EVGA forums which apparently is a posting from a user that has the two set up and running.....might be worth joining that forum if you haven't already and PMing the guy to make sure^^


----------



## DSG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slimbrady*


OK, yeah i have a better understanding now of your concern. Unfortunately I don't believe anyone that has posted in this thread, so far, is using that exact setup. Pulled THISoff the EVGA forums which apparently is a posting from a user that has the two set up and running.....might be worth joining that forum if you haven't already and PMing the guy to make sure^^


Yeah I recently registered there and made a thread concerning this, but thank you for finding that user!







Typing my PM to him as soon as I make this post, hopefully he will have an answer. Regardless of the situation, I will try to remember to post the results here so that just in case anybody decides to do the same setup in the future they can refer back.


----------



## Nutty Pumpkin

Im here!
Loving my h50!!
No pics yet, I'm to lazy. Plus my rigs 100% done.


----------



## ca.j.stokes

anyone know if there's going to be a successor the h70?


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carfanatic;11711708*
> http://www.demcifilter.com/
> 
> None
> 
> On my H50.


Yea I saw that filter, it seems very nice. So you are saying you don't use one for your h50? How does that affect dust intake into your case/rad?


----------



## AtiX

I got one, and I love it









Temps:


----------



## wholeeo

Has anyone tried mounting a H70 on top of 700d/800d case with a shroud? After buying a fan, cutting it up, getting screws, I couldn't use the top mount as it runs into my motherboard,







, I could mount it on the back rear but that would look nasty.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gohan_Nightwing;11711030*
> Does anyone use a fan filter for your intake fan on their h70? If so, which one, and how much does it affect your air intake/cooling?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gohan_Nightwing;11714400*
> Yea I saw that filter, it seems very nice. So you are saying you don't use one for your h50? How does that affect dust intake into your case/rad?


I answered your question Yes, I use a filter and supplied the link to the kind of filter I use. Then I answered the other question how much does it Effect your air intake/cooling NONE and then stated for your reference that I wasn't using the H70 I was using the H50 instead.

The filter works pretty good I have the same filters on all the intake fans on my case it filters out probably 90% of all the dust/debris it lets through the really fine dust but it is a lot better than before without filters having to vacuum/dust out my computer every week now I just clean the filters once a week and maybe the computer every 3 months.


----------



## kidaquarius

Bought the H50 today, set everything up and to no surprise my max core temps are much lower.

Max temp under load using IBT (stress level: maximum. times to run: 20) was 78C.

I have two Antec 120mm fans installed a intakes and the same fan pulling hot air through the radiator and out of the case.
All three fans spin at 2000rpm.

Everything is working marvelously.










[tapatalk on android]


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidaquarius;11716385*
> Bought the H50 today, set everything up and to no surprise my max core temps are much lower.
> 
> Max temp under load using IBT (stress level: maximum. times to run: 20) was 78C.
> 
> I have two Antec 120mm fans installed a intakes and the same fan pulling hot air through the radiator and out of the case.
> All three fans spin at 2000rpm.
> 
> Everything is working marvelously.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [tapatalk on android]


Niceeeee it looks neat dude







so now you got your hands on a h50 , whats your opinion of it over your old v8 .

U need another fan so you can push / pull , go intake and let the warm air enter the case and get exhausted out if possible u will see good results and if u have a good exhaust fan ur case will remain cool .. But since ur psu is right ontop of the rad it might get a little warm exhausting the air from the h50 .. You could try both methods , intake or exhaust find which one works better for you =D u defintaly need another fan on it .

edit: i didnt read u had 2 antec fans on their already =) nice , antec fans do well on the rad they spin nice n fast i just dont like the noise they make when they are sandwiched between the rad and the backwall of the case , when its intaking through the little holes on the back it makes an annoying whine noise so i suggest making up some shrouds from spare 120mm fans to reduce the noise . If they get too loud , there are plenty of fans on the market that are practically silent and move just as good air .

But anyway nice to see u got the h50 , once u start playing around with it and feel comfortable modding ur temps will just keep on dropping with small improvments u make like changing the thermal paste , getting higher rpm fans etc etc .


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidaquarius;11716385*
> Bought the H50 today, set everything up and to no surprise my max core temps are much lower.
> 
> Max temp under load using IBT (stress level: maximum. times to run: 20) was 78C.
> 
> I have two Antec 120mm fans installed a intakes and the same fan pulling hot air through the radiator and out of the case.
> All three fans spin at 2000rpm.
> 
> Everything is working marvelously.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [tapatalk on android]


Awesome!!







I'm sure with another fan pushing you might be able to drop a few more degrees. It seems like your case is a little limited when it comes to fans/airflow so running the H50 as an intake may drive up the temps inside your case a good bit.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11719090*
> Niceeeee it looks neat dude
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so now you got your hands on a h50 , whats your opinion of it over your old v8 .
> 
> U need another fan so you can push / pull , go intake and let the warm air enter the case and get exhausted out if possible u will see good results and if u have a good exhaust fan ur case will remain cool .. But since ur psu is right ontop of the rad it might get a little warm exhausting the air from the h50 .. You could try both methods , intake or exhaust find which one works better for you =D u defintaly need another fan on it .
> 
> edit: i didnt read u had 2 antec fans on their already =) nice , antec fans do well on the rad they spin nice n fast i just dont like the noise they make when they are sandwiched between the rad and the backwall of the case , when its intaking through the little holes on the back it makes an annoying whine noise so i suggest making up some shrouds from spare 120mm fans to reduce the noise . If they get too loud , there are plenty of fans on the market that are practically silent and move just as good air .
> 
> But anyway nice to see u got the h50 , once u start playing around with it and feel comfortable modding ur temps will just keep on dropping with small improvments u make like changing the thermal paste , getting higher rpm fans etc etc .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t;11719346*
> Awesome!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure with another fan pushing you might be able to drop a few more degrees. It seems like your case is a little limited when it comes to fans/airflow so running the H50 as an intake may drive up the temps inside your case a good bit.


I would not suggest intake with a Nvidia 570 exhausting hot air right below the H50 that would defeat the whole purpose of intake to get cooler air not to mention it would mess up the whole setup of the case intake in the front/side and exhaust out the top/back. If he is going to add another fan he should stick with exhausting out the back


----------



## kidaquarius

Here's a simple, yet effective, diagram of the airflow inside my case.
Two Antec fans on the front pulling air inside of the case.
One Antec fan pulling air out of the case through the radiator.
I'm going to run it like this for a little while and if need be, put a push fan on the radiator inside of the case.










These are the Antec fans I'm using: Link to Newegg

2000 RPM
79 CFM
29.8 dBA

These fans, in my Elite 335 anyway, produce more of a low, humming sound.
The "noise" is completely tolerable.
My only complaint with the setup is my wife is sometimes difficult to hear when trying to talk to me from another room.

The exhaust fan on the backside of the radiator is definitely doing work.
When you put your hand on the back of my case when under full load, you feel plenty of hot air coming out of the case.


----------



## Xristo

Hmmm you defintaly need a push fan , you wont see as good results using warm air from inside the case to cool down your rad especially with no push fan . you need cool crisp air from the outside .

Imo..


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidaquarius;11719659*
> Here's a simple, yet effective, diagram of the airflow inside my case.
> Two Antec fans on the front pulling air inside of the case.
> One Antec fan pulling air out of the case through the radiator.
> I'm going to run it like this for a little while and if need be, put a push fan on the radiator inside of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are the Antec fans I'm using: Link to Newegg
> 
> 2000 RPM
> 79 CFM
> 29.8 dBA
> 
> These fans, in my Elite 335 anyway, produce more of a low, humming sound.
> The "noise" is completely tolerable.
> My only complaint with the setup is my wife is sometimes difficult to hear when trying to talk to me from another room.


Yeah maybe I was a bit unclear in my previous post but I wasn't recommending running the H50 as an intake. Those antec fans have good air flow but from the little I can find on static pressure they seem to be on the low side. Static pressure is more important when it comes to a rad. Even still adding another one to push should still help with temps

As for the wife being difficult to hear I don't see that being a problem









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11719807*
> Hmmm you defintaly need a push fan , you wont see as good results using warm air from inside the case to cool down your rad especially with no push fan . you need cool crisp air from the outside .
> 
> Imo..


You really can't count on a PSU to exhaust that much air and with your diagram above airflow wouldn't be very fluid and just get disrupted which isn't good for temps. Airflow inside the case needs to be fluid either from front to back or from bottom to top once you start circulating air in all different directions it get disrupted pretty easily.


----------



## kidaquarius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11719807*
> Hmmm you defintaly need a push fan , you wont see as good results using warm air from inside the case to cool down your rad especially with no push fan . you need cool crisp air from the outside .


That's the thing.
Internal cases temperatures, even at full load, are remarkably cool.
The two intake fans create positive pressure inside of the case (hopefully I have that terminology correct), allowing the exhaust fan to pull that cool air through the radiator.
Would a push fan on the radiator improve the temperatures even more?
Yeah, I'm sure it would.
For now, however, I'm going to stick with this setup and watch the temps.
Then, I'll put another fan on and see how things shake up.

I appreciate everyone's input and my no means do I think I have the perfect setup.
Over the next week or so, I'm sure I will try different push/pull combinations to find the best method of cooling things down.


----------



## Xristo

Cool , yes a push fan will help improve temps slightly . If the air is cool inside your case then just leave it how it is and add a push fan whenever u please .


----------



## Drizzt5

If his 570 is pushing hot air out of the back of his case instead of into it then maybe he is better off with his current setup. If you have the time try both and compare temps. Because my GPU does put heat into my case I currently have it setup opposite of yours.

edit: didn't see the couple posts above me when I posted this.


----------



## kidaquarius

I've also done this to my case (don't laugh







)

The only way in for air is through the fans.
Eventually, I'm going to cut out of the casing in front of the bottom fan too.









Even the side door vents are closed up.
Not the prettiest job ever, but you can't see it when the computer is under the desk.









And as a result, these are my temps..
(I only let IBT run 4 times because I want to play BC2 Vietnam)









My CPU did not exceed 73C on any of the cores.

I think that's pretty good.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidaquarius;11720493*
> I've also done this to my case (don't laugh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> The only way in for air is through the fans.
> Eventually, I'm going to cut out of the casing in front of the bottom fan too.
> 
> Even the side door vents are closed up.
> Not the prettiest job ever, but you can't see it when the computer is under the desk.
> 
> And as a result, these are my temps..
> (I only let IBT run 4 times because I want to play BC2 Vietnam)
> 
> My CPU did not exceed 73C on any of the cores.
> 
> I think that's pretty good.


Looks good to me when you put the front on your case you would never even see you did that to it. I have a new setup that should be done shortly after Xmas and I already have the front fan "grill" cut out of it I may cut out the back one too.

I don't understand all the newer people here and their suggestions to intake from the rear of the case. There is more than 1000 pages that have proven the few C you may get if any at all you get using intake from the rear is simply not worth shortening the life of all your other components or stressing them more with all the heat.

Case manufacturers designed the cases to keep everything cool why would anyone want to go against their design and screw everything up for one component out of all the others in their setup:doh: Most modern cases are designed for front and side intake and rear and top exhaust by changing the rear to exhaust you mess up the whole thermal design and airflow of the case







So not only are you adding in the hot air from the H50/H70 your making it that much harder for other fans to keep everything cool.


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carfanatic;11721454*
> 
> I don't understand all the newer people here and their suggestions to intake from the rear of the case. There is more than 1000 pages that have proven the few C you may get if any at all you get using intake from the rear is simply not worth shortening the life of all your other components or stressing them more with all the heat.
> 
> Case manufacturers designed the cases to keep everything cool why would anyone want to go against their design and screw everything up for one component out of all the others in their setup:doh: Most modern cases are designed for front and side intake and rear and top exhaust by changing the rear to exhaust you mess up the whole thermal design and airflow of the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So not only are you adding in the hot air from the H50/H70 your making it that much harder for other fans to keep everything cool.


Just out of curiosity, can you show me some proof on the differences in temps for the CPU both ways, and how pulling air from outside the case increases the stress on your other components?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gohan_Nightwing;11722590*
> Just out of curiosity, can you show me some proof on the differences in temps for the CPU both ways, and how pulling air from outside the case increases the stress on your other components?


There's over 1500 pages here not going to read them for you I myself started with rear intake and tried rear exhaust and I there was a 1C difference.

Nothing that I typed said that pulling air from outside the case increases stress on other components I said the HEAT that has no where to go because you mess up the whole thermal design of your case stresses your other components.


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carfanatic;11721454*
> There is more than 1000 pages that have proven the few C you may get if any at all you get using intake from the rear is simply not worth shortening the life of all your other components or stressing them more with all the heat.


Yes you did... Right there. In context you were talking about how pulling air in from the outside goes against case designs. Granted that is true, but I would still like to see the proof of actual stress on other components by doing so.


----------



## yjmebs

you need to have good airflow to make a difference. Also just because you add fans means nothing. A fan needs minimum 1 inch behind it of free space to produce any airflow. Even adding a fan filter reduces the efficiency/flow of the fan. I run my H50 with push/pull however I have spacers in my set up. Fan/spacer/rad/spacer/fan. The first spacer eliminates the dead spot in the center of the fan, the 2nd spacer allows the fan to pull air immidiately after the rad rather than sucking it from the rad. I get nice steady flow across my case. My idle temps are in the low 20's and low 40's under load. If it's hot my 1st fan spins to 2700 rpm but I keep it mostly about 1600 or so.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gohan_Nightwing;11722729*
> Yes you did... Right there. In context you were talking about how pulling air in from the outside goes against case designs. Granted that is true, but I would still like to see the proof of actual stress on other components by doing so.


There is no extra "stress" from pulling air into the case but there is from the heat. There is no need to give proof it's common sense more heat = shorter life every case and setup is different so showing proof of actual stress from the heat on components would vary greatly from setup to setup and it isn't something that could be done in an hour or day or month it is over a much longer period of time that it would show and not something that is easy to show. When your power supply goes out or motherboard just fails for no apparent reason is it because everything was heated up more than normal because of your case setup or one of any other thousands of reasons who is to say? It is just simple logic that if you keep your components cooler they last longer. The best way to keep everything as cool as it can be is to use the setup the case manufacturers already put thousands of dollars and hours into designing. Messing with that design for only one component so some other companies product looks better isn't logical.


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carfanatic;11722946*
> There is no extra "stress" from pulling air into the case but there is from the heat. There is no need to give proof it's common sense more heat = shorter life every case and setup is different so showing proof of actual stress from the heat on components would vary greatly from setup to setup and it isn't something that could be done in an hour or day or month it is over a much longer period of time that it would show and not something that is easy to show. When your power supply goes out or motherboard just fails for no apparent reason is it because everything was heated up more than normal because of your case setup or one of any other thousands of reasons who is to say? It is just simple logic that if you keep your components cooler they last longer. The best way to keep everything as cool as it can be is to use the setup the case manufacturers already put thousands of dollars and hours into designing. Messing with that design for only one component so some other companies product looks better isn't logical.


Well first. The case has extra heat because of the fan setup. And of course, heat is bad for components, there is no doubt about that. However, what I'm curious about is, how much heat is brought in creating that sort of stress on the other components. You did hit the key issue though. It's all about the way each rig is setup. For example, if someone has top exhaust fans, pulling the air in might not be such a bad idea.

One last thought as well. Corsair themselves recommend pulling air from the outside, and they also create cases with the design to have air going out the back rather than in. So if they recommend pulling air in (contrary to their own case designs), there must be some sort of logic behind it.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gohan_Nightwing;11723016*
> Well first. The case has extra heat because of the fan setup. And of course, heat is bad for components, there is no doubt about that. However, what I'm curious about is, how much heat is brought in creating that sort of stress on the other components. You did hit the key issue though. It's all about the way each rig is setup. For example, if someone has top exhaust fans, pulling the air in might not be such a bad idea.
> 
> One last thought as well. Corsair themselves recommend pulling air from the outside, and they also create cases with the design to have air going out the back rather than in. So if they recommend pulling air in (contrary to their own case designs), there must be some sort of logic behind it.


Yes the logic is that their product looks better by pulling in cooler air to cool your CPU but it sacrifices keeping all of your other components to do so.


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Yes the logic is that their product looks better by pulling in cooler air to cool your CPU but it sacrifices keeping all of your other components to do so.


So why did you buy their product if you think they are self-serving?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gohan_Nightwing*


So why did you buy their product if you think they are self-serving?


Every manufacturer wants their product to look as good as it can so I would say that all companies by nature are self-serving. If I didn't buy products from companies that where "self-serving" I wouldn't even be able to buy food.


----------



## slimbrady

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gohan_Nightwing;11723016*
> Well first. The case has extra heat because of the fan setup. And of course, heat is bad for components, there is no doubt about that. However, what I'm curious about is, how much heat is brought in creating that sort of stress on the other components. You did hit the key issue though. It's all about the way each rig is setup. For example, if someone has top exhaust fans, pulling the air in might not be such a bad idea.
> 
> One last thought as well. Corsair themselves recommend pulling air from the outside, and they also create cases with the design to have air going out the back rather than in. So if they recommend pulling air in (contrary to their own case designs), there must be some sort of logic behind it.


This is taken directly from Corsair's online store/website in reference to the 800D case:

"The power supply compartment, main compartment and the SATA bays each have dedicated cooling subsystems to prevent heat buildup.

*A dust-filtered 140mm fan draws in cold air at the bottom of the case and exhausts it at the rear and top.* This clever design forces fresh air directly over the graphics card and CPU."

And on this page of the same website corsair has a video they obviously apporoved where you can watch the H70 comparison against the Noctua....in which the guy describes one of the advantages corsair's product has is the ability to pull in fresh air from the top-rear.

Have you never heard of a marketing team?
I don't understand why you're giving carfanatic such a hard time here....He, some others, and myself have stayed active on this thread long, long after we considered our own setups to have reached optimal configuration so that we could provide some help and experienced advice to the constant influx of new users all pondering the same questions we have in the past 1000 or so pages.
I'm not saying you shouldn't try things out and see for yourself if that's what you feel inclined to do, I'm just saying that these questions are quite stale to some of us and we're all out for the same goal and on the same team.









Anyways, feel free to pick at anything that bothers you I guess....would be boring if nothing ever needed any explanation.^^


----------



## kidaquarius

Quick question..
Where do I get more screws when I want to attach a second fan?
Oh and what if I wanted longer screws?
Cheers.

[tapatalk on android]


----------



## HPH_Wizard

I had the h50 for a month (gave it to mrs when my h70 arrived)

H50 is quiet and cooled down my i7960 with no problems
h70 sounds like a jet plane. These fans are not going to last long in my house!


----------



## Kokin

Regarding that issue with the H50 as intake vs exhaust, I'm not really seeing a temp difference with intake and exhaust. If I have it as exhaust, I get negative air pressure and it attracts dust very quickly, which then forces me to not utilize my top 200mm fan. If I have it as an intake, I can get positive air pressure (less dust!) and use that top 200mm.

At least for my situation, having intake in the rear is better, since the rear of my case is literally right next to my window, so it can suck in very cold winter air and go out my top 200mm fan immediately without affecting other components. It might also help that I have a side panel intake(Antec Tricool), 2 front intakes (Antec Tricools) and a Yate Loon High Speed connected to the HD cage that cools my GPU, RAM, mobo (so Tricool>>YT High>>>mobo/gpu/RAM>>200mm top fan), so almost all of my components have cold air being blasted on them, despite some semi-warm air coming out of the rad.

Since it's winter right now, this setup works for me, but I'm not sure how well it will work in the summer, so I might switch it to exhaust depending on what works better when it's hot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidaquarius;11724420*
> Quick question..
> Where do I get more screws when I want to attach a second fan?
> Oh and what if I wanted longer screws?
> Cheers.
> 
> [tapatalk on android]


Any hardware/hobby store should carry them. They measure #6-32 by 1.25", though if you're thinking about having a fan+shroud you'll need #6-32 by 2.125" or 2.25".

I've been looking for a place that sells those longer ones for cheap, but I don't want to buy 350 of them like the one listing I see on ebay. Haven't tried my local Lowes or Osh yet, but Home Depot only carries up to 2".


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimbrady;11724333*
> This is taken directly from Corsair's online store/website in reference to the 800D case:
> 
> "The power supply compartment, main compartment and the SATA bays each have dedicated cooling subsystems to prevent heat buildup.
> 
> *A dust-filtered 140mm fan draws in cold air at the bottom of the case and exhausts it at the rear and top.* This clever design forces fresh air directly over the graphics card and CPU."
> 
> And on this page of the same website corsair has a video they obviously apporoved where you can watch the H70 comparison against the Noctua....in which the guy describes one of the advantages corsair's product has is the ability to pull in fresh air from the top-rear.
> 
> Have you never heard of a marketing team?
> I don't understand why you're giving carfanatic such a hard time here....He, some others, and myself have stayed active on this thread long, long after we considered our own setups to have reached optimal configuration so that we could provide some help and experienced advice to the constant influx of new users all pondering the same questions we have in the past 1000 or so pages.
> I'm not saying you shouldn't try things out and see for yourself if that's what you feel inclined to do, I'm just saying that these questions are quite stale to some of us and we're all out for the same goal and on the same team.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, feel free to pick at anything that bothers you I guess....would be boring if nothing ever needed any explanation.^^


Hear, hear! Agree with Slimbrady and Carfanatic on this. Already debated heaps, especially in this forum. Do a search, or try the FAQ on the first page of this forum even. It's the very first topic. You can't miss it.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidaquarius;11720493*
> I've also done this to my case (don't laugh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> The only way in for air is through the fans.
> Eventually, I'm going to cut out of the casing in front of the bottom fan too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even the side door vents are closed up.
> Not the prettiest job ever, but you can't see it when the computer is under the desk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And as a result, these are my temps..
> (I only let IBT run 4 times because I want to play BC2 Vietnam)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My CPU did not exceed 73C on any of the cores.
> 
> I think that's pretty good.


I like to always use at least 2 different programs to monitor my temps when stressing. I notice that on my rig HWmonitor reads about 2C lower load temps than every other program. When you get into the experimenting mode try and use the H50 as and intake and keep the front fans as intakes as well but uncover the vents on the side panel so the positive pressure of all the intake fans force the hot air out through the vents. Its worth a shot. It might help it might not but its easy enough to try so why not.


----------



## chowtyme2

I finally got my build Done... all I need now is a windowed Side panel
spec in the sig.


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimbrady;11724333*
> This is taken directly from Corsair's online store/website in reference to the 800D case:
> 
> "The power supply compartment, main compartment and the SATA bays each have dedicated cooling subsystems to prevent heat buildup.
> 
> *A dust-filtered 140mm fan draws in cold air at the bottom of the case and exhausts it at the rear and top.* This clever design forces fresh air directly over the graphics card and CPU."
> 
> And on this page of the same website corsair has a video they obviously apporoved where you can watch the H70 comparison against the Noctua....in which the guy describes one of the advantages corsair's product has is the ability to pull in fresh air from the top-rear.
> 
> Have you never heard of a marketing team?
> I don't understand why you're giving carfanatic such a hard time here....He, some others, and myself have stayed active on this thread long, long after we considered our own setups to have reached optimal configuration so that we could provide some help and experienced advice to the constant influx of new users all pondering the same questions we have in the past 1000 or so pages.
> I'm not saying you shouldn't try things out and see for yourself if that's what you feel inclined to do, I'm just saying that these questions are quite stale to some of us and we're all out for the same goal and on the same team.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, feel free to pick at anything that bothers you I guess....would be boring if nothing ever needed any explanation.^^


That is what I was looking for. I wasn't trying to give him a hard time. I'm sorry it came across that way. I just wanted to find the best way to put mine in without having to reconfigure it over and over again.

Again, apologies to Carfanatic if he thought I was giving him a hard time.


----------



## kidaquarius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chowtyme2;11727512*
> I finally got my build Done... all I need now is a windowed Side panel
> spec in the sig.


I need a side window too!
That's my next project.

[tapatalk on android]


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin;11724616*
> Regarding that issue with the H50 as intake vs exhaust, I'm not really seeing a temp difference with intake and exhaust. If I have it as exhaust, I get negative air pressure and it attracts dust very quickly, which then forces me to not utilize my top 200mm fan. If I have it as an intake, I can get positive air pressure (less dust!) and use that top 200mm.
> 
> It might also help that I have a side panel intake(Antec Tricool), 2 front intakes (Antec Tricools) and a Yate Loon High Speed connected to the HD cage that cools my GPU, RAM, mobo (so Tricool>>YT High>>>mobo/gpu/RAM>>200mm top fan), so almost all of my components have cold air being blasted on them, despite some semi-warm air coming out of the rad.


With three intake fans and only two exhaust fans it seems odd you would have a negative pressure case unless that 200mm fan is really putting out a lot of CFM. Since you didn't list your 200mm fan it would be impossible to say for sure though.

Edit: Now that I looked at all of your fans you have and if your H50 fans still put out max CFM through the radiator(88cfm) the top 200mm fan would have to be putting out 149CFM+ to give you a negative pressure case.

If your top fan is the stock Antec Big Boy 200mm TriCool Fan on high it only puts out 134cfm so it still gives you a positive pressure case if you have the other three antec tricool fans on high and the H50 high speed yates as exhaust.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


With three intake fans and only two exhaust fans it seems odd you would have a negative pressure case unless that 200mm fan is really putting out a lot of CFM. Since you didn't list your 200mm fan it would be impossible to say for sure though.

Edit: Now that I looked at all of your fans you have and if your H50 fans still put out max CFM through the radiator(88cfm) the top 200mm fan would have to be putting out 149CFM+ to give you a negative pressure case.

If your top fan is the stock Antec Big Boy 200mm TriCool Fan on high it only puts out 134cfm so it still gives you a positive pressure case if you have the other three antec tricool fans on high and the H50 high speed yates as exhaust.


Hmm interesting findings, though I did fail to say that my PSU is also an exhaust, sucking air from the bottom and out the back. I do still have the stock Antec Big Boy fan on top, so I'll try exhaust again to see if there's negative pressure still. Only problem is that I don't always have my fans on high speed, so my tricools are usually on the lowest settings with the Big Boy at low or medium settings. Also my Yate Loons on the H50 only run at 2000 RPM vs the regular 2200 RPM because of Push/Pull, and sometimes I lower them down to 800-850 RPM when I don't want to hear the loud vacuum noise they produce.

Should I cut out of the rear fan grill on my Antec 902? I didn't have a problem with them when I had the Tricool on there, but now that my Yate Loons+H50 are attached to the rear, the Yate fan right next to the grill sounds much louder than the other Yates I have.


----------



## clubfoot

Just wanted to add my .02c to the debate on which configuration gives the lowest temps based on MY particular setup. My sig has all the hardware information.

CPU temps using CPUID Hardware 1.17 all push/pull no shrouds.

Top mount
Intel burn Test: 79, 76, 72, 69
Prime large FFT: 65,64,61,60
ASUS Probe running Prime95 large FFT: cpu 73, MB 28, SB 42, NB 59, PW 49

Rear exhaust 
Intel Burn Test: 78,76,71,69
Prime large FFT: 64,63,60,59
ASUS Probe running Prime95 large FFT: cpu 73, MB 28, SB 42, NB 59, PW 49

Rear intake
Intel Burn Test: 75, 72, 69, 66
Prime large FFT: 62, 61, 58, 58
ASUS Probe running Prime95 largeFFT: cpu 69, MB 28, SB 41, NB 58, PW 46

What is significant in MY particular case and hardware setup is the drop in cpu temps in Intel Burn Test AND south bridge, north bridge and power temps as rear intake!

These are the temps with Prime95 large FFT, CPUID and FurMark all running at the same time to see the effect of the video card on component temps, roughly a 2 to 3 degree rise.

CPUID cpu core temps from CPUID: 62,61,59,58
ASUS Probe: cpu 69, MB 31, SB 44, NB 60, PW 48.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *clubfoot*


Just wanted to add my .02c to the debate on which configuration gives the lowest temps based on MY particular setup. My sig has all the hardware information.

CPU temps using CPUID Hardware 1.17 all push/pull no shrouds.

Top mount
Intel burn Test: 79, 76, 72, 69
Prime large FFT: 65,64,61,60
ASUS Probe running Prime95 large FFT: cpu 73, MB 28, SB 42, NB 59, PW 49

Rear exhaust 
Intel Burn Test: 78,76,71,69
Prime large FFT: 64,63,60,59
ASUS Probe running Prime95 large FFT: cpu 73, MB 28, SB 42, NB 59, PW 49

Rear intake
Intel Burn Test: 75, 72, 69, 66
Prime large FFT: 62, 61, 58, 58
ASUS Probe running Prime95 largeFFT: cpu 69, MB 28, SB 41, NB 58, PW 46

What is significant in MY particular case and hardware setup is the drop in cpu temps in Intel Burn Test AND south bridge, north bridge and power temps as rear intake!


Nice test. I have a few questions though lol. How close were the ambient temps on each test? Where do you have your case? Is it out in the open where the back of it gets good air circulation? I'd like to try the rear intake for my H50 but my case sits under my desk and the back of it is only about 8" away from a wall so I'm not sure that my H50 would be pulling in much cooler air from the back of my case cause air don't circulate too good under my desk and between the wall. If I could mount my H50 on the front then I would do it but I can't with my case with out some major modding that I don't really have the time for now.


----------



## clubfoot

The test took about an hour in total so very little change in ambient and my case sits in the open on my desk with lots of free air for circulation.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *clubfoot*


the lowest temps based on MY particular setup


As you phrase it. It won't be the same for everyone. One degree is possibly not a statistically significant variation. Probably have to do a lot of repeats or do testing in a temp controlled environment to be sure.

Usual other factors to consider: Whether graphics card has external exhaust, or is heat dispersed in case, however many other fans are in exhaust mode - all that sort of thing.

In the end, whatever works best for you. Good to see people testing and not just automatically accepting anyway.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *clubfoot*


Just wanted to add my .02c to the debate on which configuration gives the lowest temps based on MY particular setup. My sig has all the hardware information.

CPU temps using CPUID Hardware 1.17 all push/pull no shrouds.

Top mount
Intel burn Test: 79, 76, 72, 69
Prime large FFT: 65,64,61,60
ASUS Probe running Prime95 large FFT: cpu 73, MB 28, SB 42, NB 59, PW 49

Rear exhaust 
Intel Burn Test: 78,76,71,69
Prime large FFT: 64,63,60,59
ASUS Probe running Prime95 large FFT: cpu 73, MB 28, SB 42, NB 59, PW 49

Rear intake
Intel Burn Test: 75, 72, 69, 66
Prime large FFT: 62, 61, 58, 58
ASUS Probe running Prime95 largeFFT: cpu 69, MB 28, SB 41, NB 58, PW 46

What is significant in MY particular case and hardware setup is the drop in cpu temps in Intel Burn Test AND south bridge, north bridge and power temps as rear intake!

These are the temps with Prime95 large FFT, CPUID and FurMark all running at the same time to see the effect of the video card on component temps, roughly a 2 to 3 degree rise.

CPUID cpu core temps from CPUID: 62,61,59,58
ASUS Probe: cpu 69, MB 31, SB 44, NB 60, PW 48.


Intake is the best setup no doubt about it , iv mentioned this heaps of times but ppl are still sayin you wont see much difference







you will when your room temp is 20c and your case temps are 25+c


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


As you phrase it. It won't be the same for everyone. One degree is possibly not a statistically significant variation. Probably have to do a lot of repeats or do testing in a temp controlled environment to be sure.

Usual other factors to consider: Whether graphics card has external exhaust, or is heat dispersed in case, however many other fans are in exhaust mode - all that sort of thing.

In the end, whatever works best for you. Good to see people testing and not just automatically accepting anyway.


Air from outside the case will always be better than air inside the case , the extra 5c your adding to your case using the h50 as an intake is not even worth the worry .. unless you have real bad airflow you wont have a problem .

Its just common sense that the air is going to be cooler outside than the air hovering around electrical components . If i switched my setup to exhaust i guarentee my temps will rise , case temps are usually 3-5c higher than room temp and thats if you have good airflow , its much worse if you dont .. not everyone has an antec 1200 with 11 fans like i do , some pc's get extremely warm after hours of use , imagine the rad trying to cool down from the warm air in ur case , it just doesnt work like that so stop saying it does .


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


Air from outside the case will always sometimes be better than air inside the case

Its just common sense that the air is going to be cooler outside than the air hovering around electrical components .



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


Intake is the best setup FOR ME no doubt about it , iv mentioned this heaps of times but ppl are still sayin you wont see much difference







you will when your room temp is 20c and your case temps are 25+c



Fixed your statements.

You need to add for your particular setup that is the case.

I have two video cards in SLI and my power supply venting hot air right below where the H50 would be mounted so the air as intake for me would be 5-15C warmer than the inside of my case. My ambient is usually 22C year around but the temp right behind my case just above my video cards and power supply is ~35C at least right now while my case temp is 26C.

So hmm 35C air to cool if I used rear intake or 26C from inside the case no need to wonder which one would work the best there.

Just take a little time to think that not everyone's setup is the same so we can never say one particular setup is the best no matter what.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


Air from outside the case will always be better than air inside the case , the extra 5c your adding to your case using the h50 as an intake is not even worth the worry .. unless you have real bad airflow you wont have a problem .

Its just common sense that the air is going to be cooler outside than the air hovering around electrical components . If i switched my setup to exhaust i guarentee my temps will rise , case temps are usually 3-5c higher than room temp and thats if you have good airflow , its much worse if you dont .. not everyone has an antec 1200 with 11 fans like i do , some pc's get extremely warm after hours of use , imagine the rad trying to cool down from the warm air in ur case , it just doesnt work like that so stop saying it does .


Have to agree with Carfanatic.

Rear Intake
better for the cpu - maybe
better for everything else inside the case - maybe not. (Feel free to pump some extra rad heat in though)
better for Corsair marketing - probably

For almost as long as PCs have existed airflow has been directed from lower front to upper rear. Could be good reasons for that. Maybe hot air rises. Maybe the Corsair marketing department is not the new messiah of airflow.

Before I changed over to custom water I tried both intake and exhaust with my H50. It made no difference to my cpu temps, but intake made my NB/MCH, graphics and system temps higher, so I used the exhaust setup. That is how it worked for me.

How it works for you won't change that "so stop saying it does".


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Fixed your statements.

You need to add for your particular setup that is the case.

I have two video cards in SLI and my power supply venting hot air right below where the H50 would be mounted so the air as intake for me would be 5-15C warmer than the inside of my case. My ambient is usually 22C year around but the temp right behind my case just above my video cards and power supply is ~35C at least right now while my case temp is 26C.

So hmm 35C air to cool if I used rear intake or 26C from inside the case no need to wonder which one would work the best there.

Just take a little time to think that not everyone's setup is the same so we can never say one particular setup is the best no matter what.


You may aswel of gone air cooling if you wanted to cool down your cpu via the air inside ur case ... I understand u have 2 nvidia gfx cards which heat up like a ***** but doesnt it sound logical to u that the rad should be sucking in the coolest air in can be which is room temp .. 22c is better than 26c thats 4c off your load temps already


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


Have to agree with Carfanatic.

Rear Intake
better for the cpu - maybe
better for everything else inside the case - maybe not. (Feel free to pump some extra rad heat in though)
better for Corsair marketing - probably

For almost as long as PCs have existed airflow has been directed from lower front to upper rear. Could be good reasons for that. Maybe hot air rises. Maybe the Corsair marketing department is not the new messiah of airflow.

Before I changed over to custom water I tried both intake and exhaust with my H50. It made no difference to my cpu temps, but intake made my NB/MCH, graphics and system temps higher, so I used the exhaust setup. That is how it worked for me.

How it works for you won't change that "so stop saying it does".


Ok whats your room temp and whats your case temp ? i find it hard to believe there was "no difference" between intake and exhaust that sounds wrong .. there is no chance your case temps are better than outside the case , so it doesnt take a rocket scientist to work out which is going to provide u with cooler air .. Unless u have 2 gfxs cards in sli exhausting out the back u shouldnt have the rad there anyway , better off intaking from the front . See what i mean by the h50 has potential , you just got to use it like its meant to be . Its a radiator the possibilities are endless , sticking it in a 30c case and using it as an exhaust is not going to give you the best results end of story .

Your pc parts wont die with an extra few degrees , thats nonsense.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11733511*
> You may aswel of gone air cooling if you wanted to cool down your cpu via the air inside ur case ... I understand u have 2 nvidia gfx cards which heat up like a ***** but doesnt it sound logical to u that the rad should be sucking in the coolest air in can be which is room temp .. 22c is better than 26c thats 4c off your load temps already


Ah you never asked my current setup....

I have front intake for my H50 so 22C temps to cool it down and by following the way my case air flow should be it keeps everything else cooler as well. Rear intake not only increased the temps of my CPU thanks to my setup but it also increased my case temps by a lot. As front intake not only did I lower my CPU temps over either rear setup but my case temps didn't increase over my old CPU air cooler at all.

Most everyone is here to help each other to have their own optimal setup but, there are a few here that just seem they want to argue even when they don't have a leg to stand on.

If you don't have the exact setup of someone else there is no way you can tell them the best setup no matter what. You can make suggestions based on what your setup is and what works for you but the best suggestion is always to give your opinion on what you think is best for them and then tell them their results may vary and to try it all the different ways for themselves and then they can see for themselves what is best.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11733560*
> Your pc parts wont die with an extra few degrees , thats nonsense.


It all depends on your setup if you have video cards that use case air to cool themselves and don't exhaust out the back then a few degrees can easily turn into 10-15C so again a few degrees might not make a difference for your setup but it may for someone else. Also, since the hot air from the video cards inside the case rises with the H50 as intake it has no where to go.


----------



## alancsalt

More bits get hot than just the cpu.
Once air has gone through a rad it is no longer "coolest". It is warmed/heated.

If you have heaps of fans blowing into a case there is no longer a big temp difference between inside and outside. It all depends on individual setup.


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

So what would be the ideal set up for my case?

The red lines are the direction of my air flow. It starts where my intake is at, then moves to where my case would normally have two fans. The back being 120mm and the top being 140mm.

Would you suggest I use the H70 at the rear exhaust port in an intake, or exhaust form?

Thanks

Gohan_Nightwing


----------



## alancsalt

Walking right into a "spirited debate" on the subject. 









I tried a few variations, but in the end I had a 120mm 50cfm fan taking up three 5.25 bays blowing straight across to an H50 in exhaust, with same type of 120mm fan and a 1" shroud.
My CM692 has a top 140mm fan as well, and at the time, a 120mm fan blowing up from the bottom, and the usual front bottom fan cooling the HDDs. I also needed a fan pointing at the NB/MCH to keep its temps down, as it no longer had the air-spill from the stock fan and could get quite hot when gaming or stress testing.

Core temp and Realtemp are probably more accurate than HWMonitor. Be guided by the temps you get.

More than 50cfm can be noisy. If you hate noise that will affect your choices.

Given that no two cases are quite the same, just use your own best judgment of what works for you and you'll soon sort an appropriate solution.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gohan_Nightwing;11734317*
> So what would be the ideal set up for my case?
> 
> The red lines are the direction of my air flow. It starts where my intake is at, then moves to where my case would normally have two fans. The back being 120mm and the top being 140mm.
> 
> Would you suggest I use the H70 at the rear exhaust port in an intake, or exhaust form?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Gohan_Nightwing


I don't know the measurements of your case so don't know if it would work but I always suggest that if you can put it as front intake.

If you cannot reach the front to mount it there then it is easy enough to try both exhaust and intake at the rear of the case to check what works best for you. Remember to get readings of all your motherboard temp sensors to do a total comparison not just the one CPU temp.


----------



## [email protected]

If I had to invent something like what corsair did for self liquid coolers, they should make a attachable tube that doesn't leak if you take it off or on by a coil bracket switch or something. That way you can mount the rad outside or anywhere but especially outside the case without any tube restriction then remount the tube clamp and you're good to go. Wish corsair can come up with a brilliant idea like this for us!


----------



## alancsalt

Like they should have used Koolance QDCs (Quickly Detachable Couplings)


----------



## [email protected]

Yea! Someone oughta mention this in Corsair forums. I may sign up tomorrow and give suggestions and maybe they can pull a design ready for 2011. We need improvement headroom for our self liquid options when it comes to mounting. I do like the H70. I still wish i can mount it outside of the case


----------



## alancsalt

Cut a slot/hole big enough to bring hoses and pump in through?

If you are good with yr hands check willhemmens mod for changing tubes linked on first page of this thread?


----------



## [email protected]

I already have holes for my Antec case, i don't need to cut it. Don't wanna void warranty









Besides why would i need to cut a MASSIVE hole just to get my RAD through? ******ed!


----------



## slimbrady

I just wanted to say to anyone that is currently doing testing on setups with MB, NB, SB temps etc..in mind as well as their CPU temps to remember that's it's not really going to be an accurate representation of how you'll be using your computers if you just set up your cooler and run Prime95....I have a feeling this is what a lot of people who say that intake from top never increased their temps on other internal components. Or perhaps they just have enough airflow to combat the issue but I think it unlikely for most.
I would suggest getting those video cards/NB's nice and warm with a GPU heavy game or application and THEN stressing the CPU on top of it with prime95(ITB and Linx while excellent at what they're designed for are a little over the top IMHO and not really realistic representations of what the actual CPU stress 99% of users are going to be generating on a daily basis).


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];11736018*
> I already have holes for my Antec case, i don't need to cut it. Don't wanna void warranty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides why would i need to cut a MASSIVE hole just to get my RAD through? ******ed!


You said u wanted to put it outside. Not cut out big enough for the rad - but the right shape for the pipes and heat sink. Don't want to void warranty, don't do it. Find another way.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimbrady;11736202*
> I just wanted to say to anyone that is currently doing testing on setups with MB, NB, SB temps etc..in mind as well as their CPU temps to remember that's it's not really going to be an accurate representation of how you'll be using your computers if you just set up your cooler and run Prime95....I have a feeling this is what a lot of people who say that intake from top never increased their temps on other internal components. Or perhaps they just have enough airflow to combat the issue but I think it unlikely for most.
> I would suggest getting those video cards/NB's nice and warm with a GPU heavy game or application and THEN stressing the CPU on top of it with prime95(ITB and Linx while excellent at what they're designed for are a little over the top IMHO and not really realistic representations of what the actual CPU stress 99% of users are going to be generating on a daily basis).


Well, don't know if it works the same for all, but I have had GTA4 bring an overclock undone. Also I have had overclocks that pass Prime and LinX only to have them freeze after an extended period of idling. Certainly agree that Prime and LinX don't cover every possible fail.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];11736018*
> I already have holes for my Antec case, i don't need to cut it. Don't wanna void warranty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides why would i need to cut a MASSIVE hole just to get my RAD through? ******ed!


Why would you have to cut a MASSIVE hole to fit your radiator through?







The pump can easily fit through a 120mm fan hole while leaving the rad outside the case.


----------



## Drizzt5

Also you could try cutting holes sideways in the case big enough for the tubes to fit in.


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slimbrady;11736202*
> I just wanted to say to anyone that is currently doing testing on setups with MB, NB, SB temps etc..in mind as well as their CPU temps to remember that's it's not really going to be an accurate representation of how you'll be using your computers if you just set up your cooler and run Prime95....I have a feeling this is what a lot of people who say that intake from top never increased their temps on other internal components. Or perhaps they just have enough airflow to combat the issue but I think it unlikely for most.
> I would suggest getting those video cards/NB's nice and warm with a GPU heavy game or application and THEN stressing the CPU on top of it with prime95(ITB and Linx while excellent at what they're designed for are a little over the top IMHO and not really realistic representations of what the actual CPU stress 99% of users are going to be generating on a daily basis).


Actually if you look at my last test I ran FurMark, video card running at 67 degrees and Prime95 large FFT to not only heat the cpu but atleast the NB. As everyone has stated and knows out side cool air will cool the cpu the best,....BUT if you're running a high o/c the rest of you motherboard components will heat up more due to the heat from the rad.

It's a balance that has to be found based on YOUR particular setup,...NO ONE ELSES!!! You have to take the time and experiment with all the suggestions here and find one that is an acceptable compromise of cpu and component temps for YOUR setup.

My RE so happens to have an LCD display so I can see that my cpu "never" gets above 45 degrees while playing Dirt2, whereas the NB, SB, MB, PW and video card temps all go up as you would expect in a modern PC gpu intensive game.

What the H50/H70 need are two things:
Quick disconnects and a flexible duct to attach to a front 120mm fan!! Those two things would solve allot of installation and cooling issues


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


Why would you have to cut a MASSIVE hole to fit your radiator through?







The pump can easily fit through a 120mm fan hole while leaving the rad outside the case.



Well i ain't cutting my 120mm rear fan. I like the way it's designed..

I ain't voiding my case warranty anyways.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];11740081*
> Well i ain't cutting my 120mm rear fan. I like the way it's designed..
> I ain't voiding my case warranty anyways.


Cutting your 120mm fan?? huh?







Last time I checked case fans use screws so you can remove them quite easily lol. Any ways you wouldn't be able to use the precut holes in your case anyways unless you unhooked the tubes from the H50 and feed them through the holes.

Case warranty


----------



## alancsalt

I thought we were overclockers and case modders...


----------



## purduepilot

What's more important to you--your case warranty or your H50 warranty? I feel like the H50 is a mechanical device that, while reliable, is prone to mechanical failure . The case is... a box.


----------



## purduepilot

Those of you who helped me on my lofty quest for a new fan, I made a decision a couple days ago. Not a brand I've heard of, but the reviews, performance spec's, and price all looked pretty good. Hopefully it gets here tomorrow or Friday so I don't have to wait all weekend. I figure if it I like it then I'll get a second one for a push/pull (just wish my mobo had two PWM headers) and if I don't like it then I might just get the turbine in the second link.

What I bought:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5879/fan-294/Cooljag_Everflow_120mm_x_25mm_9-Blade_PWM_Fan_R121225BU.html?tl=g36c15s69

What I was tempted to buy:








http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9769/fan-616/Delta_120_x_38mm_Mega_High-Speed_11-Blade_Fan_-_2178_CFM_PFB1212GHE.html?tl=g36c15s562

I just wish they'd give units for the air pressure on the second one... 27.31 what? psi? mmHg? dmH2O? chickens per square yard?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *purduepilot;11744703*
> Those of you who helped me on my lofty quest for a new fan, I made a decision a couple days ago. Not a brand I've heard of, but the reviews, performance spec's, and price all looked pretty good. Hopefully it gets here tomorrow or Friday so I don't have to wait all weekend. I figure if it I like it then I'll get a second one for a push/pull (just wish my mobo had two PWM headers) and if I don't like it then I might just get the turbine in the second link.
> 
> What I bought:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5879/fan-294/Cooljag_Everflow_120mm_x_25mm_9-Blade_PWM_Fan_R121225BU.html?tl=g36c15s69
> 
> What I was tempted to buy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9769/fan-616/Delta_120_x_38mm_Mega_High-Speed_11-Blade_Fan_-_2178_CFM_PFB1212GHE.html?tl=g36c15s562
> 
> I just wish they'd give units for the air pressure on the second one... 27.31 what? psi? mmHg? dmH2O? chickens per square yard?


27.31mm of H2O - Delta make some monster fans - that sucker would blow loud

Delta PFB1212GHE - 4800rpm - 217.80cfm - 27.308mm.H2O/1.075IN.H2O - 64dB-A

http://www.delta.com.tw/product/cp/dcfans/download/pdf/PFB/PFB120x120x38mm.pdf


----------



## DJ4g63t

That delta is just ridiculous lol


----------



## purduepilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;11745200*
> 27.31mm of H2O - Delta make some monster fans - that sucker would blow loud
> 
> Delta PFB1212GHE - 4800rpm - 217.80cfm - 27.308mm.H2O/1.075IN.H2O - 64dB-A
> 
> http://www.delta.com.tw/product/cp/dcfans/download/pdf/PFB/PFB120x120x38mm.pdf


Hmm maybe I _should_ have grabbed that one!







Although 64 dB on a 24/7 bedroom rig would probably make my gf leave me.









In other news, just took apart my current push-pull and found a buttload of dust in my rad (just cleaned it out about a month ago--oh the woes of running 24/7 on my bedroom floor) and now my intelburn temps are 53 (they were 59 before) with this overclock.


----------



## rafarataneneces

Hello

I have a H70 and I have no idea what to do, here are the options

1) keep the Intel Core i7 875k that I have
2) buy AMD Phenom II X6 1100T and overclock it
3) wait for Intel Core i7 2600k and overclock it

I currently have the Intel Core i7 875k @ 4.2Ghz and it's running nice.

However I read that with the Intel Core i7 2600k I will be able to overclock to 4.7Ghz

I also want to know what is the successor of Intel Core 1366 boards.

I heard that after Sandy there will be yet another motherboard from Intel. those processors will be 6 cores, so I don't know if it's worth it to upgrade to Sandy or wait for the generation after that.

Thanks a lot


----------



## seesee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rafarataneneces;11746560*
> Hello
> 
> I have a H70 and I have no idea what to do, here are the options
> 
> 1) keep the Intel Core i7 875k that I have
> 2) buy AMD Phenom II X6 1100T and overclock it
> 3) wait for Intel Core i7 2600k and overclock it
> 
> I currently have the Intel Core i7 875k @ 4.2Ghz and it's running nice.
> 
> However I read that with the Intel Core i7 2600k I will be able to overclock to 4.7Ghz
> 
> I also want to know what is the successor of Intel Core 1366 boards.
> 
> I heard that after Sandy there will be yet another motherboard from Intel. those processors will be 6 cores, so I don't know if it's worth it to upgrade to Sandy or wait for the generation after that.
> 
> Thanks a lot


If you are just gaming, don't even bother with upgrading. because regardless how many cores they have is rarely you can use more than 4 cores.

i7 is an over kill for gamers, if you ask me..


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rafarataneneces;11746560*
> Hello
> 
> I have a H70 and I have no idea what to do, here are the options
> 
> 1) keep the Intel Core i7 875k that I have
> 2) buy AMD Phenom II X6 1100T and overclock it
> 3) wait for Intel Core i7 2600k and overclock it
> 
> I currently have the Intel Core i7 875k @ 4.2Ghz and it's running nice.
> 
> However I read that with the Intel Core i7 2600k I will be able to overclock to 4.7Ghz
> 
> I also want to know what is the successor of Intel Core 1366 boards.
> 
> I heard that after Sandy there will be yet another motherboard from Intel. those processors will be 6 cores, so I don't know if it's worth it to upgrade to Sandy or wait for the generation after that.
> 
> Thanks a lot


There is a discussion at XtremeSystems about this. Some of the posters have played with the processors, but on systems with "crippled" bios. They are also under Non-Disclosure Agreements. Regardless, some insight can be gained into what to expect.

More Sandy Bridge performance numbers (+Rumoured Pricing)


----------



## rafarataneneces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seesee;11747571*
> If you are just gaming, don't even bother with upgrading. because regardless how many cores they have is rarely you can use more than 4 cores.
> 
> i7 is an over kill for gamers, if you ask me..


Well I render videos with Adobe Premiere CS5

So if I can buy a computer with more power, I'll do it

I just want to know if it's worth it


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seesee;11747571*
> If you are just gaming, don't even bother with upgrading. because regardless how many cores they have is rarely you can use more than 4 cores.
> 
> i7 is an over kill for gamers, if you ask me..


Actually I would suggest the AMD 1100T BE for exactly that reason. Even now most games only use two cores and even if they use 4 you benefit more from 4 faster cores vs 6 slower cores. The 1100T has:

"AMD Turbo CORE Technology AMD Turbo CORE technology is a performance boosting technology that automatically switches from six cores to three turbocharged core for applications that just need raw speed over multiple cores."

So you get the benefit of the 6 cores when you can actually use them and when your game or other application is only using 2-4 then you get "3" better faster cores.


----------



## mothman

My first post so forgive me if the pics aren't great. I installed an H50 in my Lian Li PC-V100 via a Lian Li BZ-502 fan module configured:

BZ-502 with Scythe S-Flex 1650 > 25mm Shroud > H50 > S-Flex 1650

The beauty of this install is everything mounts perfectly without the need for any mods and there's plenty of slack on the H50 hoses with the inverted mo-bo of the PC-V1000.

It's winter of course so temps are great: Idle 24 20 23 19 I don't run prime but even under moderate load working on Autocad temps never get out of the mid 30's


----------



## mothman

Just wanted to add pics and couldn't figure how to add to original post.


----------



## Xristo

picked up one of these today


----------



## jprovido

quick prime test on my h50 with newly installed fans and shroud









huge improvement


----------



## rafarataneneces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jprovido;11750155*
> quick prime test on my h50 with newly installed fans and shroud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> huge improvement


Can u please tell me how much u can overclock while keeping temperatures below 60C-62C?

I would REALLY appreciate that, fans at 100% please


----------



## jprovido

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rafarataneneces;11750250*
> Can u please tell me how much u can overclock while keeping temperatures below 60C-62C?
> 
> I would REALLY appreciate that, fans at 100% please


sadly I can only do 4.1ghz with maximum stability. 4.2-4.3ghz are benchable and fairly stable but fails on prime(atleast on my standards)


----------



## Seanay00

I am a new owner of a corsair H70 and it has put out some good numbers with 3dmark vantage and 3dmark 11. This is the rig....

The new pc


----------



## kidaquarius

Ok, so I snipped the "grill" out of my case in front of my lower front intake fan and from behind the rear exhaust fan (less resistance bring air in and pulling air out).
The fans are quieter now too. Bonus!

Did some stress testing and my temps decreased across the board.

This screenshot only shows 2 IBT cycles, but I've run over a dozen cycles since the modification but stopped them to do other things on the computer.
The MAX/HIGH listed in HWMonitor and Coretemp are the maximum over all tests because I did not close those programs and those temps only reset after you close the window.

I also want to point out that ambient air temp was 64F on both of these tests.
I have a digital thermometer on my desk that read room temp.

Before:









After:









Does anyone know why the GFlops is lower in the second run?
Nothing else changed in my setup.

More to come, including a complete "complete" stress test.
I wanted to put this up before the holiday starts. I might not be back at this for a few days.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kidaquarius*


Does anyone know why the GFlops is lower in the second run? 
Nothing else changed in my setup.


I get that occasionally as well with IBT. I'm not sure why but I do notice that the lower the glfops the lower my temps are too so keep that in mind when your comparing load temps with IBT.


----------



## purduepilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidaquarius;11751317*
> Does anyone know why the GFlops is lower in the second run?


I get my best gflops results when I kill as many background processes as possible. Maybe the fact that you have coretemp running the second trial set you back.


----------



## purduepilot

I got home from a coffee run and found a box on my porch from FrozenCPU.









Opened up and found my new fan inside.

Installation took a couple hours. The push fan I had before was easy since I had it plugged into a mobo header, but the pull fan I was using was the stock exhaust fan on the case, and the power leads were behind the motherboard and connected to a molex on the back side of the motherboard tray, so getting that one out took a while. I set up my Everflow as a pull fan on the exhaust port of my case and fired up my computer... and nothing happened. I didn't even get a POST beep the first half dozen times. Took out all my hard drives, graphics card, wireless card, RAM, and power connectors. Added things one-by-one and eventually got everything put back together without any problems, so I guess I must have knocked something loose when I was messing around with the fan leads.

At full speed (SpeedFan shows 2464 RPM), this thing is blowing a heck of a lot of air out the back of the case (definitely a ton more than I had with my weak push/pull config) and it really isn't too noisy. If I throttle it back a bit, I can't even hear it over my other stock case fans.

*Performance summary*
Phenom II X4 955BE C2 running 3.78GHz at 1.525 volts
H50 with stock thermal paste and a Cooljag Everflow 9-blade PWM fan
Ambient temps are about 20C.
Case has a couple of slow fans--120mm intake in front of hard drives, 120mm intake on lower slot of side panel, and 140mm exhaust on top--and the PSU exhausting as well.

Fan 100% (2464RPM) and CPU Folding at 100% is giving me 48C (previously was 55C). Fan is kinda noisy at this speed, but not really enough to make me turn up my music or make conversation difficult.

Using Speedfan to set my desired CPU temp to 50C makes this fan run at about 60% (1800RPM) where it is _much_ quieter. It has a low pitch hum but the noise is about equal to the two push/pulls I had before (which would be running 100% to keep the CPU at 58C under these conditions).

Idle CPU (but still at 3.78GHz) with 100% fan (showing 2500RPM now) is around 37C. At 40% (1200RPM) I can't even hear it over my case fans, and idle is still under 40C (mobo went from 23 to 24 and GPU went from 37 to 39 with the reduced airflow).

All in all I'm very happy with this fan and I think it's going to give me exactly the performance I wanted. Only thing left to do is take apart one of those old case fans and make a shroud out of it. I have a POS RocketFish fan on the side panel right now, so I might put the Corsair fan in its place if it has better flow and use the RocketFish as a shroud. I don't think I'll be doing a push/pull with this since the PWM control is too nice (my only remaining header is a 3 pin), and this fan is kinda noisy at full speed. My only regret is not getting the fan leads sleeved by FrozenCPU, since the four wires are just kinda out and about (I used some electrical tape to wrap them and keep them together).


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11750055*
> picked up one of these today


I hate you


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubfoot;11755662*
> I hate you


NOO I HATE YOUU







hehee







, in all honesty though it wasnt much of an improvment over the 5850.









The wire going through my ram is the negative wire off the corsair fan , overvolted .


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11756013*
> in all honesty though it wasnt much of an improvment over the 5850.


That sucks. Did you look at any reviews before you bought it? I'm not in the market yet for a video card so I don't know much about the new cards. Oh and by the way that doesn't look like an H50/70 to me lol

I gotta ask but why do you have the noctua fan as an intake right above the 6950's exhaust? That means your sucking in all the hot air back into the your case that the video card is exhausting


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t;11756287*
> That sucks. Did you look at any reviews before you bought it? I'm not in the market yet for a video card so I don't know much about the new cards. Oh and by the way that doesn't look like an H50/70 to me lol
> 
> I gotta ask but why do you have the noctua fan as an intake right above the 6950's exhaust? That means your sucking in all the hot air back into the your case that the video card is exhausting


Dont get me wrong it is better , much better in dx11 apps like stone giant or lost planet 2 benchmark i gained 20fps but in dx10 like residet evil its on par . I know this is a watercooling thread i just wanted to share my new buyings =D very sexy looking card though

You are right about intaking all that air back in , this 6950's fan goes upto 5000+rpm and blows directly out the back port . I will be switching that fan to exhaust when i can be bothered thanks for the tip.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11756454*
> Dont get me wrong it is better , much better in dx11 apps like stone giant or lost planet 2 benchmark i gained 20fps but in dx10 like residet evil its on par . I know this is a watercooling thread i just wanted to share my new buyings =D very sexy looking card though
> 
> You are right about intaking all that air back in , this 6950's fan goes upto 5000+rpm and blows directly out the back port . I will be switching that fan to exhaust when i can be bothered thanks for the tip.


By the way had my rig dismantled yesterday and did some cable sleeving and decided to give the H50 a shot as a push/pull intake seeing I have a 140mm fan right above the cpu to exhaust the hot rad air. I actually broke a dam fan blade off the 140mm top fan while sleeving it







so I had to substitute it with a yate loon low speed 120mm







While my case sits under my desk and is less than a foot away from the back wall my core temps took a nice 5C dip under IBT load. Before you go telling me "I told you so" lol my video card temps are taking a hit in the range of 5C higher. I'm running the thermalright HR-03 GT with a fan so even with the card oc'd and the added heat I'm still well below others temps with the same card


----------



## Xristo

i told you so .. =p win win , of coarse intake will give you better results =) was the case always on the floor ? its always cooler on the floor than on the desk next to the monitor .


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11758706*
> i told you so .. =p win win , of coarse intake will give you better results =) was the case always on the floor ? its always cooler on the floor than on the desk next to the monitor .


Yeah but I sacrificed gpu temps to lower my cpu temps so its not a win win situation at all. Fortunately for me my gpu runs nice and cool thanks to the 6 heatpipe HR-03 GT cooler and a 120mm fan attached to it







. Its pretty much a stalemate. Sure I lowered cpu load temps by 4-5C but I also raised the gpu temps by 4-5C so I'm still not sold on the whole intake idea







. My ambient temps in the back of my case where the H50 is intaking from is 2-3C warmer than the front of the case cause not much air flows behind there.


----------



## Coldplayer

anyone got pics of a h70 in a antec p182?

Cheers


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


Yeah but I sacrificed gpu temps to lower my cpu temps so its not a win win situation at all. Fortunately for me my gpu runs nice and cool thanks to the 6 heatpipe HR-03 GT cooler and a 120mm fan attached to it







. Its pretty much a stalemate. Sure I lowered cpu load temps by 4-5C but I also raised the gpu temps by 4-5C so I'm still not sold on the whole intake idea








. My ambient temps in the back of my case where the H50 is intaking from is 2-3C warmer than the front of the case cause not much air flows behind there.


Can you pull the desk away from the wall a bit,...my son's Antec 900 sits in desk and that's what I had to do to keep his o/c Q6600 cool. The only problem with the floor is the damn dust









Wish I could mount my H50 on the upper 120 fan too but they put two 140s in the top of the DF-85 and left no room for the rad to mount there


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *clubfoot*


Can you pull the desk away from the wall a bit,...my son's Antec 900 sits in desk and that's what I had to do to keep his o/c Q6600 cool. The only problem with the floor is the damn dust









Wish I could mount my H50 on the upper 120 fan too but they put two 140s in the top of the DF-85 and left no room for the rad to mount there










Well I have my desk tucked back into an over sized closet but the bottom of my desk is open. It doesn't have walls around it. It just has 4 legs so its not that bad. My desk has a floor to it so my case doesn't have to sit on the ground/carpet. My temps are great so its not really a big deal. At 4.33GHz my P95 load temps are 52C and IBT is 65C so those are well below the max safe zone for my chip









How do you like the DF-85? I'm thinking this might be my next case.


----------



## kidaquarius

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


Well I have my desk tucked back into an over sized closet ...


Ha. Same here!

[tapatalk on android]


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


How do you like the DF-85? I'm thinking this might be my next case.


I like it,...lots of room and comes with everything you need in a case. The only thing missing from it are cable grommets!


----------



## kidaquarius

There was some talk earlier about GPU temps negatively impacting the H50 and it's cooling capabilities..
Here's a stress test with OC Scanner and IBT running.
GTX570 900/1800/2020 @1.075v
i7 950 3.9GHz at 1.29v

MAX temperature Core Temp showing up was 79C/76C/77C/71C.

GPU hovered around 60-62C.

The H50 did it's job admirably given all components were stress tested at the same time.

Remember, I'm using two 120mm intake fans and one 120mm _pull_ fan on the radiator.

Here's pic:


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubfoot;11761085*
> Can you pull the desk away from the wall a bit,...my son's Antec 900 sits in desk and that's what I had to do to keep his o/c Q6600 cool. The only problem with the floor is the damn dust
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish I could mount my H50 on the upper 120 fan too but they put two 140s in the top of the DF-85 and left no room for the rad to mount there


Show me a picture of your DF? I always wanted that case too cuz of the filter easy access to clean. You can mount one of these on top with the 140 fans with a 120mm adapter.. or just mount it on the top rear fan? Mines on the top of the rear fan of the antec 1200. Fits fine.


----------



## goldbranch

May I ask where could you guys find some screws for H50 push/pull setup and what kind of screws are they?


----------



## alancsalt

6 gauge 32 threads per inch and where to get them can depend what country yr in... Usually nut and bolt places, but in Oz they are used in power sockets (the ones with extender blocks have long ones)


----------



## Xristo

merry christmas watercoolers =D so what did santa bring youse all ?


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidaquarius;11764936*
> There was some talk earlier about GPU temps negatively impacting the H50 and it's cooling capabilities..
> Here's a stress test with OC Scanner and IBT running.
> GTX570 900/1800/2020 @1.075v
> i7 950 3.9GHz at 1.29v
> 
> MAX temperature Core Temp showing up was 79C/76C/77C/71C.
> 
> GPU hovered around 60-62C.
> 
> The H50 did it's job admirably given all components were stress tested at the same time.
> 
> Remember, I'm using two 120mm intake fans and one 120mm _pull_ fan on the radiator.
> 
> Here's pic:


You really need a powerful push fan to drive those temps down abit more .. 79c is abit much .. I recomend buying some good thermal paste and a good push fan you will drop 5+ degrees easily . Youll get there mate , keep trying out different setups etc and one day u will find the sweet spot u were always looking for =D


----------



## goldbranch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;11765074*
> 6 gauge 32 threads per inch and where to get them can depend what country yr in... Usually nut and bolt places, but in Oz they are used in power sockets (the ones with extender blocks have long ones)


I live in the U.S and I'm thinking I'm gonna pay Lowe's a visit.


----------



## kidaquarius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11765131*
> You really need a powerful push fan to drive those temps down abit more .. 79c is abit much .. I recomend buying some good thermal paste and a good push fan you will drop 5+ degrees easily . Youll get there mate , keep trying out different setups etc and one day u will find the sweet spot u were always looking for =D


I'm going to space the pull fan from the radiator first with some sort of shroud.
Just need some longer screws.
Then I will experiment with a push fan.

As far as thermal paste goes, well, I'm using what came on the H50.
I will experiment with some AS5 as well.

[tapatalk on android]


----------



## Melee

I'm in.







Mine is in the Mail. I will post some pics up as soon as I get it installed!


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidaquarius;11766012*
> I'm going to space the pull fan from the radiator first with some sort of shroud.
> Just need some longer screws.
> Then I will experiment with a push fan.
> 
> As far as thermal paste goes, well, I'm using what came on the H50.
> I will experiment with some AS5 as well.
> 
> [tapatalk on android]


Dunno if you do ghetto, but an old 120mm fan with centre cut out does ok as shroud, and if screws are hard to source, older mobo standoffs use the same thread. Just stack them, and drill out the mount holes in the shroud to clear the OD of the standoffs.....get the height right mixing standoff heights and screw the originals into the top of the stack.. Rough?

Also to help cooling, a 120mm fan can be put into 3 of the 5.25 drive bays - can be mounted on back edge of a gutted shortened shell of a cd drive, and used as inlet or exhaust depending which way you went with the H50.

Just for those with limited resources...


----------



## mothman

There's a more effective way to mount the fans to the radiator and mount a shroud to a fan. Rather than use a long 6/32 screw to sandwich them all together, which actually only serves to bend the lip on the outer fan as this is where all the force is applied and will eventually come loose. Get some 6/32 x 3/8 at lowes ( I verified that this length will clear the rad fins) and a small #2 phillips screwdriver, Lowes has those too. First slip a screw into the bottom hole on all four corners of the fan, line the fan up on the radiator, then slip the small phillips through the top hole in the fan corners and tighten on to the radiator. This method gives a much more secure mount. To mount a shroud to the fan take four regular fan screws and start one in each bottom corner of the shroud again by slipping the small phillips through the top hole, line the shroud up on the fan slip the phillips through the top holes again and tighten the shroud to the fan, again a much more secure mount than the long 6/32 sandwich. The next and final trick is with a push/pull setup and rear existing 120mm fan hole mount just mount the hole radiator assembly with fan screws to the case the same way you'd mount just a fan, again elimating the unstable long 6/32 sandwich.


----------



## DJ4g63t

This is how I mount my 2 fans and shroud to my H50. Its works great and they are nice and tight.

Zip Tie Fan


----------



## [email protected]

Maybe if you provide pics because that's a air cooler and as for mothman please please show us pictures cuz it can help more..


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];11768220*
> Maybe if you provide pics because that's a air cooler and as for mothman please please show us pictures cuz it can help more..


Its the same principle only you thread the zip ties through the holes that the screws would normally go into. I actually drilled out the screw holes bigger to allow for a bigger/longer zip tie to fit all the way through my fans shroud and rad.

This is about the best pic I have at the moment



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## alancsalt

Pretty neat way to fit the best plug and play sealed water cooling solution around....


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t;11768920*
> Its the same principle only you thread the zip ties through the holes that the screws would normally go into. I actually drilled out the screw holes bigger to allow for a bigger/longer zip tie to fit all the way through my fans shroud and rad.
> 
> This is about the best pic I have at the moment
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


WOW that is impressive.. i wonder if there is a screw that size and thinner?

Does it hold that STABLE and sandwich everything and doesn't not rattle? Is it really secure?

Then again tie wrap seems to do the job. Impressive. noted as a possible future alternative instead of screws. I'm fine with mine but i may have to try this someday lol.


----------



## Coldplayer

does anyone have a H70 with a antec p182..need to check compatibility before i buy.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];11769130*
> WOW that is impressive.. i wonder if there is a screw that size and thinner?
> 
> Does it hold that STABLE and sandwich everything and doesn't not rattle? Is it really secure?
> 
> Then again tie wrap seems to do the job. Impressive. noted as a possible future alternative instead of screws. I'm fine with mine but i may have to try this someday lol.


It works great. It holds everything together real tight. It don't rattle at all. The reason I needed to do this was the rad had bad threads in it right of the box and the screws wouldn't fit right. I ended up stripping out 2 of the holes trying to fight with it. I used this method on my dark knight cooler so I adapted it to the H50 and its been working great ever since.


----------



## mothman

Here's one pic. The mounting is the same for a fan or gutted fan shroud to the radiator. To mount a fan to the shroud use a standard 'fan screw' that comes with any fan you buy.


----------



## kidaquarius

Does anyone know the maximum rpm and cfm of the Corsair fan that comes with the H50?


----------



## alancsalt

56cfm and 1600rpm just plugged straight in. Ah, here it is:

Quote:



The kit also comes with a single 7-blade 120x120x25mm cooling fan that runs at 1700RPM. After contacting the engineers at Corsair we were informed that the fan was sourced from well known cooling fan manufacturer Akasa. The model AK174CB-4BLB cooling fan has a 50,000 hour life span and a twin ball bearing design. This fan consumes 2.2W when running at 1700RPM and has a noise level of 29.75 dB(A). The max airflow is 59.05CFM with a static pressure of 3.57mm H20.


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


Show me a picture of your DF? I always wanted that case too cuz of the filter easy access to clean. You can mount one of these on top with the 140 fans with a 120mm adapter.. or just mount it on the top rear fan? Mines on the top of the rear fan of the antec 1200. Fits fine.



It won't fit the top 120 with the 140 in place in the DF, but I did try it there with a home made setup and it did not run as cool as rear intake. I now have my Q9400 o/c to 4.0GHz with the stock case fan pushing and the Corsair fan pulling and an OCZ ram cooler.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...l#post10504352


----------



## [email protected]

Dude just mount it on the BACK top rear not the TOP of the case.. which is a 140mm.

Here is my pic



Uploaded with ImageShack.us
looks like i need to clean my pc later today i see dust lol.

I want the Dark Fleet but i hope it's not cheap as mine.. and metal too.


----------



## tian105

hey guys,, I recently got a H70 for my self as a xmas present.. the quesiton is, how should i mount the RAD in my Lian-li K62?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tian105;11773976*
> hey guys,, I recently got a H70 for my self as a xmas present.. the quesiton is, how should i mount the RAD in my Lian-li K62?


If the tubes can reach I would mount it where the front 120mm fan is as intake of course.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];11772468*
> Dude just mount it on the BACK top rear not the TOP of the case.. which is a 140mm.
> 
> Here is my pic
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> looks like i need to clean my pc later today i see dust lol.
> 
> I want the Dark Fleet but i hope it's not cheap as mine.. and metal too.


140mm ? i think you mean 120mm ...

Where did you get those kink coils from ? i want some in blue =)


----------



## [email protected]

I have thought of getting blue and red.. you can get them here..

http://www.xoxide.com/wacotu.html


----------



## purduepilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tian105;11773976*
> hey guys,, I recently got a H70 for my self as a xmas present.. the quesiton is, how should i mount the RAD in my Lian-li K62?


Most people will opt to mount it on the back of the case as an exhaust in order to promote better case airflow and lower case temperatures. Some do it as an intake in order to lower the CPU temps by a degree or two, but it can cause the case temperatures (and GPU, RAM, mobo, hard drives, and PSU) to run hotter.

I have mine as an exhaust and that's what I would recommend.


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Does anyone know what the cfm levels are for the h70 fans?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> The kit also comes with a single 7-blade 120x120x25mm cooling fan that runs at 1700RPM. After contacting the engineers at Corsair we were informed that the fan was sourced from well known cooling fan manufacturer Akasa. The model AK174CB-4BLB cooling fan has a 50,000 hour life span and a twin ball bearing design. This fan consumes 2.2W when running at 1700RPM and has a noise level of 29.75 dB(A). The max airflow is 59.05CFM with a static pressure of 3.57mm H20.


Is it two of these?

Hmm, maybe faster, 2000rpm with some regulator cables to lower rpm
Quote:


> Like others of its ilk, the H70's fans and radiator mount in place of your case's 12cm rear exhaust fan, although Corsair recommends you mount the H70's fans as exhaust rather than intake (as with the H50).


http://www.maximumpc.com/article/reviews/corsair_hydro_h70_liquid-cooling_system_review
Quote:


> Corsair rates the fans at 50.35-61.2 CFM, 1.8-2.3mm H20 static pressure (each) and 26-31.5dBA of noise per fan. Each fan has a 3-pin connector and Corsair supply a cable to power these off a single 3-pin motherboard connector.


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Oh wow. They recommend the h70 as exhaust but the h50 as intake? Hmmm. wonder why


----------



## alancsalt

I was a bit surprised to see that myself.


----------



## purduepilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;11777705*
> Is it two of these?
> 
> Hmm, maybe faster, 2000rpm with some regulator cables to lower rpm
> 
> http://www.maximumpc.com/article/reviews/corsair_hydro_h70_liquid-cooling_system_review


The fan that came with my H50 was a PWM fan, but it was so awful I just ran it 100% all the time.

In any case, I've had my Everflow on there for three days or so and I'm loving it! Speedfan puts it at 0% (800 rpm) for idle at 40C or so, and 60% (1900 rpm) will keep my CPU at 52C with 100% load and with GPU at 100% load (adds a lot of heat to the case) and the GPU runs 12 degrees cooler in this situation. I don't even need the fan to go above 60% except for intelburn, where 100% fan speed (2500 rpm) puts my CPU under 50C (with the stock H50 fan it was 59-60C). I don't even notice the fan noise at 60%, which is the highest it needs to go in normal folding and gaming. 100% sounds like a hair dryer sitting under my desk.

Best $20 I've ever spent on computer hardware!


----------



## ArcticZero

Guys, I need a little help mounting my H50. I just can't seem to get it right no matter what I do. I have an unlapped H50 + i7 930, using Gelid Extreme or MX-3 as my TIM.

I realize I would have high ambients thanks to living in a tropical country, however I still get relatively high temps with the case open and my AC on. That gives me around 28c ambient temps. My idles (case open) range from 43 to 49c, but the moment I start up Prime95, it shoots up to 77-79c.

I've reseated three times already, with the rad mounted as exhaust with push-pull San Ace 1011's, tubes on the bottom. Temps were just as high with it on intake though.

The pump is running at full speed (1400rpm), and so are the fans. I've tried both the BB and thin spread methods of TIM application, but I believe I'm doing something wrong with the actual mounting of the block.

Could anyone show me a great guide to properly installing the H50, and what's a good way to apply TIM to it? Pics would be awesome. I tried following the official Corsair instruction video, but I get similar results.



















I realize my case is cramped, but I'll be getting an Aerocool xPredator soon. However that shouldn't be the issue if the case is open and I'm still getting high temps.


----------



## clubfoot

The 1200 has a single BIG fan at the top, the DF has two 140s and NO room to mount the H50 on the top rear unless I remove one of the 140s









The Df is no Cooler Master.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArcticZero;11780444*
> Guys, I need a little help mounting my H50. I just can't seem to get it right no matter what I do. I have an unlapped H50 + i7 930, using Gelid Extreme or MX-3 as my TIM.
> 
> I realize I would have high ambients thanks to living in a tropical country, however I still get relatively high temps with the case open and my AC on. That gives me around 28c ambient temps. My idles (case open) range from 43 to 49c, but the moment I start up Prime95, it shoots up to 77-79c.
> 
> I've reseated three times already, with the rad mounted as exhaust with push-pull San Ace 1011's, tubes on the bottom. Temps were just as high with it on intake though.
> 
> The pump is running at full speed (1400rpm), and so are the fans. I've tried both the BB and thin spread methods of TIM application, but I believe I'm doing something wrong with the actual mounting of the block.
> 
> Could anyone show me a great guide to properly installing the H50, and what's a good way to apply TIM to it? Pics would be awesome. I tried following the official Corsair instruction video, but I get similar results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I realize my case is cramped, but I'll be getting an Aerocool xPredator soon. However that shouldn't be the issue if the case is open and I'm still getting high temps.


This is the proper way of applying thermal paste to an i7 ..









Make sure the pump is 100% tight , to check have ur pc on and apply some pressure to the pump and see if your temps drop ..if they do your pump isnt on correctly . What thermal paste are you using ?


----------



## alancsalt

Make absolutely sure the teeth on the ring are sitting in all the slots all the way round the pump/heatsink, and do the screws up equally, a bit at a time each, *not* all the way one at a time.


----------



## purduepilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;11785652*
> Make absolutely sure the teeth on the ring are sitting in all the slots all the way round the pump/heatsink, and do the screws up equally, a bit at a time each, *not* all the way one at a time.


Best to tighten the screws in a criss-cross pattern, too, not just going in a circle around the backplate.


----------



## ArcticZero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11785498*
> This is the proper way of applying thermal paste to an i7 ..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure the pump is 100% tight , to check have ur pc on and apply some pressure to the pump and see if your temps drop ..if they do your pump isnt on correctly . What thermal paste are you using ?


Hmm, I should try that method of application then..

Pushing on the pump gave me no change in idle/load temps. I'm using Gelid Extreme as my TIM. MX-3 is also available, but I get similar temps.

Yes, the pump fits in perfectly with all of the retention bracket's notches. And yes, I did tighten the screws properly (criss-cross, little by little).


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubfoot;11785310*
> The 1200 has a single BIG fan at the top, the DF has two 140s and NO room to mount the H50 on the top rear unless I remove one of the 140s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Df is no Cooler Master.


That is why i said go buy a adapter? There is a 120mm adapter for 140 to fit the fans.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9004/duc-49/Bitspower_Low_Profile_140mm_To_120mm_Fan_Adapter_-_Black_BP-FA140120-BK.html?tl=g47

here.


----------



## Silvos00

I tried setting up a p/p setup on my H50, and somehow the temps went up. I used the 2nd fan that the my M59. With the 2nd fan running, my RPSs on the puah fan were 1500. When I stopped it with a screwdriver, they went up to 1550. Taking the fan out, they hit 1600. am I somehow doing this setup wrong?


----------



## MiiX

Hell yes!








http://i56.tinypic.com/2l8i7n8.jpg
finally, its "water'ed"^^


----------



## purduepilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX;11789678*
> Hell yes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://i56.tinypic.com/2l8i7n8.jpg
> finally, its "water'ed"^^


Beautiful!


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *purduepilot;11789723*
> Beautiful!


Haha, thanks







Still now 100% happy with it, still missing some cable management at the bottom and behind the GPU, its a mess behind there









EDIT: And uhm, yea... its an Akasa Viper 120mm fan, and not the stock one, but im changing to noctuas i think


----------



## ph10m

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX;11789678*
> Hell yes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://i56.tinypic.com/2l8i7n8.jpg
> finally, its "water'ed"^^


move a ram chip one slot to the right, you're not making use of dual-channel as of now.

or is it different on that board?


----------



## purduepilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX;11789740*
> Haha, thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still now 100% happy with it, still missing some cable management at the bottom and behind the GPU, its a mess behind there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: And uhm, yea... its an Akasa Viper 120mm fan, and not the stock one, but im changing to noctuas i think


Yeah my PSU is not modular and I have all of my hard drive slots filled so my case is pretty messy.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ph10m;11789775*
> move a ram chip one slot to the right, you're not making use of dual-channel as of now.
> 
> or is it different on that board?


Nope, i had that first, but thats single, dual is 1&2 or 3&4








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *purduepilot;11790004*
> Yeah my PSU is not modular and I have all of my hard drive slots filled so my case is pretty messy.


haha, i dont even got enough drives for that


----------



## Munkypoo7

Hey guys, I'm hunting for two stock 120mm H70 fans here ^^

Fire me a pm if you want to sell / part with them, obviously the lesser the usage on them the better


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


That is why i said go buy a adapter? There is a 120mm adapter for 140 to fit the fans.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/90...BK.html?tl=g47

here.


When I have some spare cash I'll get the adapter and a 120 fan,...thanks. Found it cheaper here too:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25703

And this one is in Ontario Canada and not too far away: http://ncix.com/products/index.php?s...ture=Bitspower


----------



## TG Goose

I got one an H50 for Xmas, man this thing really works! Previously I was 28C idle, 71C 100% Load (@3.4 ghz). Now I am 28C Idle and 53C Load! I'm using an extra fan in a push/pull config, and can have the fan speeds set at the lowest setting.


----------



## ArcticZero

So I reseated and tried the line method. Same problem. I'm still getting temps of 80c immediately upon starting Prime95.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ArcticZero*


So I reseated and tried the line method. Same problem. I'm still getting temps of 80c immediately upon starting Prime95.










Are you running at 4GHz with HT on when you run P95? If you are try it with HT off and post back with your temps. HT can add up to 10C when its used on certain stress test. I'm not sure if P95 is one of them but its worth a shot. Also whats the vid of your chip? We've had many discussions in the UD3 thread about the lower the vid of the chip the hotter it tends to run when OC'd.


----------



## ArcticZero

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


Are you running at 4GHz with HT on when you run P95? If you are try it with HT off and post back with your temps. HT can add up to 10C when its used on certain stress test. I'm not sure if P95 is one of them but its worth a shot. Also whats the vid of your chip? We've had many discussions in the UD3 thread about the lower the vid of the chip the hotter it tends to run when OC'd.


I've done my research prior to OCing, and I'm aware of the heat associated with HT. I want to keep it that way actually. I notice a significant general performance difference having it on. I've seen several other users easily get 4ghz + HT with an H50.

Also, how do I see my VID? Core Temp has it blank.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ArcticZero*


Also, how do I see my VID? Core Temp has it blank.



Hmm thats odd are you using the newest Core Temp 99.8?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ArcticZero*


I've done my research prior to OCing, and I'm aware of the heat associated with HT. I want to keep it that way actually. I notice a significant general performance difference having it on. I've seen several other users easily get 4ghz + HT with an H50.



From a quick google search only certain things like video encoding actually benefit from HT. In some cases on heavy cpu intensive programs or stress tests it actually hurts your scores. The added heat of running HT may not be worth it. Considering your pretty high ambient temps your load temps with HT on really arent that bad. The H50 can only do so much and its performance relies a lot on ambient temps as does any cpu cooler.


----------



## Primus

Got one of these a couple of days ago and it's a pretty sweet piece of hardware. My 925 idles at 26C and tops out at 42C at 3.5ghz. Not bad for $80 CAD.

Was anyone else paranoid when installing the radiator? Damn, those tubes are stiff.


----------



## [email protected]

I was cuz i was very careful because i didn't wanna dent the rad fins. I just like to keep things in good condition. I'm not worried about anything else and yes the tubes are stiff but they are bendable and you have nothing to worry about.


----------



## Prentice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Primus;11794119*
> Was anyone else paranoid when installing the radiator? Damn, those tubes are stiff.


The tubes are the reason that I changed my mind about how I had this thing installed. I was really uneasy about the tight bend I had in the hoses when it was connected to my exhaust port. I mod'd my case to allow for intake installation and its so much cleaner and straighter. I love the way this idea worked out for me.


----------



## [email protected]

That's nice but you know that you are now blocking your airflow for your whole system.. only if you had another fan intake up top.. however.. i'd be not surprised if your video card heats up.


----------



## Prentice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];11795406*
> That's nice but you know that you are now blocking your airflow for your whole system.. only if you had another fan intake up top.. however.. i'd be not surprised if your video card heats up.


You can't tell from the pictures, but I have the Lian Li HDD rack mounted in the upper 3.5" bays. That unit has its own 120mm fan. There is absolutely no blockage of airflow in my case. The fans on my rad are Scythe GT1850's and they pump a ton of CFMs. With my previous air cooler (CoolerMaster N520), my case temps averaged 44-49C under load while my CPU ran 41-43C. Right now my CPU under load averages 33-35C and my case remains at a cool 39C all the time (side panel installed).

I haven't seen my video card temps go above 43C. The new XFX twin fan 6850 is amazingly quiet and cool. The fans run at 40% while gaming.

Its not a great pic, but you can see the Lian Li HDD rack. The 120mm fan is right behind the grill you see.


----------



## purduepilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];11795406*
> That's nice but you know that you are now blocking your airflow for your whole system.. only if you had another fan intake up top.. however.. i'd be not surprised if your video card heats up.


Well he said he has it as an intake, so I think it's probably less blocking the airflow and more just blowing hot air right onto the vid card...

My case layout sucks due to non-modular power supply, 5 hard drives, etc, but I have my H50 as an exhaust on the back and I also have a side panel intake fan blowing straight onto my vid card, which drops load temps from 65 to 52.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prentice;11795585*
> You can't tell from the pictures, but I have the Lian Li HDD rack mounted in the upper 3.5" bays. That unit has its own 120mm fan. There is absolutely no blockage of airflow in my case. The fans on my rad are Scythe GT1850's and they pump a ton of CFMs. With my previous air cooler (CoolerMaster N520), my case temps averaged 44-49C under load while my CPU ran 41-43C. Right now my CPU under load averages 33-35C and my case remains at a cool 39C all the time (side panel installed).
> 
> I haven't seen my video card temps go above 43C. The new XFX twin fan 6850 is amazingly quiet and cool. The fans run at 40% while gaming.


39C for the case seems awfully hot... Speedfan says mine is 25. Ambient is 20.


----------



## Jmartinez06

Just got mine, 20 after discount at best buy. Is it me.. Aren't there only supposed to be one fan?










Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Prentice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jmartinez06;11795617*
> Just got mine, 20 after discount at best buy. Is it me.. Aren't there only supposed to be one fan?


You got a great deal!! Yes, one fan is the default setup. Push/pull with two fans will yield much better performance though.


----------



## Prentice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *purduepilot;11795598*
> 39C for the case seems awfully hot... Speedfan says mine is 25. Ambient is 20.


An ambient of 20c means that your case, while running, has lower temps than the standard living air temp (which is 21C). Do you keep your house very cold or have an air conditioning port shooting straight into your case?

39C is not out of line at all. It would be a bit cooler if i had the push/pull running as an exhaust, but my CPU temps would be a few degrees higher.


----------



## Trito

how much does H50/H70 costs in USA?
I really want one of them for my rig but here in Latvia I can't get them and on ebay they are like 120$ with shipping.


----------



## Prentice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito;11795735*
> how much does H50/H70 costs in USA?
> I really want one of them for my rig but here in Latvia I can't get them and on ebay they are like 120$ with shipping.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181010&cm_re=h50-_-35-181-010-_-Product

$69USD for the H50/$93USD for the H70 from Newegg. It really depends on the vendor though. Resellers on Ebay don't give the best deals.


----------



## Jmartinez06

59.99 h50 79.99 h70 at best buy.com

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Trito

I need better mb for overclock first and some new stuff for snowboard but would it be possible if someone would get H50 from newegg and then ship it to Latvia?


----------



## Jmartinez06

Possibly but with all the international paypal scams it would be hard
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito;11796004*
> I need better mb for overclock first and some new stuff for snowboard but would it be possible if someone would get H50 from newegg and then ship it to Latvia?


Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jmartinez06;11796019*
> Possibly but with all the international paypal scams it would be hard
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


what do you mean by international paypal scams?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArcticZero;11791968*
> So I reseated and tried the line method. Same problem. I'm still getting temps of 80c immediately upon starting Prime95.


No vid or clock modulation shows on my CoreTemp 99.8
I can see it in bios though next to the vcore I'm actually using, or in pc health to one less decimal place. 1.2125v

With my i7950 using the h50 with 1" shroud and fast noisy fan, when ambient was up near 30c, and clocking 4.2, it took about ten to fifteen minutes of Prime for one core to kiss 80c, but that was peak, and with ht on. So when you say "immediately upon starting Prime95" do you mean exactly that, "*immediately*"?

HT only helps in heavily threaded stuff, but I admit temps still don't sound very good the way you put it. From the sound of it you have at least 4.2 temps at 4.0, a bit worse if "immediately" means what it says.

Hard to judge long distance. Maybe a "bad" chip.

Sounds like you've put a lot of effort into trying to get the cooler fitting right already.

I went over to custom water, and (I never learn) promptly raised my OC to take up the extra cooling headroom. Usually it is just after 4GHz that cpu voltages and temps rise rapidly...


----------



## Jmartinez06

Hello, I am interested in buying your item if it is still for sale. I will add an additional 50 to the price plus pay shipping for said item. I am a doctor in canada and my daughter goes to school in france. I wep be shopping it to her. please include all your pay pal information. I will send you either paypal or money order....

That bs..

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Trito

well I'm not that kinda guy, I'm 17 years old and I love three things computers, snowboard and girls. I could pay not throught paypal?


----------



## tat2monsta

I used to be diy water cooled but took it all out a while back.
seriously thinking about getting one of these.
will keep you posted

it will happen soon


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;11796093*
> 
> Hard to judge long distance. Maybe a "bad" chip.


This is true. Not all chips are created equally. I've battled with a hot chip before and its no fun when it comes to oc'ing. Its not common but it does happen. There are others who battle high load temps on their i7's too so your def not alone. FWIR you should keep the i7's load temps under 85C so your not in the red zone yet. I wouldn't go running LinX or IBT though.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArcticZero;11791968*
> So I reseated and tried the line method. Same problem. I'm still getting temps of 80c immediately upon starting Prime95.


1. What are your ambient temps ?

2. What thermal paste are you using ? and how did you apply it ..

3. Have you lapped your cpu or the block on the pump (yields better results)

4. What rpm is your fans running at ?

5. What rpm is your pump running at ? should be 1400rpm

6. If you have it setup as exhaust try intake ..

7. If your fans have a large centre orb get some shrouds

my i7 at 4.2Ghz idles 33 , 31 ,31 , 29 and loads under 78c with around 20c ambients , you should easily pass prime at 4Ghz with your setup .


----------



## purduepilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prentice;11795693*
> An ambient of 20c means that your case, while running, has lower temps than the standard living air temp (which is 21C). Do you keep your house very cold or have an air conditioning port shooting straight into your case?
> 
> 39C is not out of line at all. It would be a bit cooler if i had the push/pull running as an exhaust, but my CPU temps would be a few degrees higher.


I said:
_39C for the case seems awfully hot... Speedfan says mine is 25. Ambient is 20._

Meaning my case temperature is 25 and my ambient temperatures are 20.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];11795406*
> That's nice but you know that you are now blocking your airflow for your whole system.. only if you had another fan intake up top.. however.. i'd be not surprised if your video card heats up.


He is not blocking airflow by having it as front intake he is actually following the airflow designed for his case.

There is probably a side intake fan I would guess too that would be blowing fresh cool air on the video cards and since it is a lot closer than the H50 setup it would negate any heat from the H50.

If you can get the H50/H70 to fit in the front as intake it is the best setup for it IMO since you are then following the thermal cooling setup of most cases made now.

At least for my setup since it added another fan to the front to help circulate air it actually lowered my video card temps.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


1. What are your ambient temps ?

2. What thermal paste are you using ? and how did you apply it ..

3. Have you lapped your cpu or the block on the pump (yields better results)

4. What rpm is your fans running at ?

5. What rpm is your pump running at ? should be 1400rpm

6. If you have it setup as exhaust try intake ..

7. If your fans have a large centre orb get some shrouds

my i7 at 4.2Ghz idles 33 , 31 ,31 , 29 and loads under 78c with around 20c ambients , you should easily pass prime at 4Ghz with your setup .


He said his ambients are around 28C and he tried intake but didnt get better results. He runs with his side panel off so thats probly why intake didn't make a difference. He also took your advice and applied the tim like you posted a pic of with no difference in temps. Don't you read the thread before you go asking all kinds of questions that have already been answered? You can't compare your temps to his cause your ambients are 8-10C lower than his.

He answers quite a few of your questions in his first post

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ArcticZero*


Guys, I need a little help mounting my H50. I just can't seem to get it right no matter what I do. I have an unlapped H50 + i7 930, using Gelid Extreme or MX-3 as my TIM.

I realize I would have high ambients thanks to living in a tropical country, however I still get relatively high temps with the case open and my AC on. That gives me around 28c ambient temps. My idles (case open) range from 43 to 49c, but the moment I start up Prime95, it shoots up to 77-79c.

I've reseated three times already, with the rad mounted as exhaust with push-pull San Ace 1011's, tubes on the bottom. Temps were just as high with it on intake though.

The pump is running at full speed (1400rpm), and so are the fans. I've tried both the BB and thin spread methods of TIM application, but I believe I'm doing something wrong with the actual mounting of the block.

I realize my case is cramped, but I'll be getting an Aerocool xPredator soon. However that shouldn't be the issue if the case is open and I'm still getting high temps.


Hell the quote you posted was an answer to one of your questions lol.


----------



## ArcticZero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t;11800056*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He said his ambients are around 28C and he tried intake but didnt get better results. He runs with his side panel off so thats probly why intake didn't make a difference. He also took your advice and applied the tim like you posted a pic of with no difference in temps. Don't you read the thread before you go asking all kinds of questions that have already been answered? You can't compare your temps to his cause your ambients are 8-10C lower than his.
> 
> He answers quite a few of your questions in his first post
> 
> Hell the quote you posted was an answer to one of your questions lol.


Thanks for the cover. I did answer a lot of those questions already.









By "immediately" on the temps, I do mean within the first 1-2 seconds after starting Prime95 Small FFT's.

Anyway, things I want to try:

*1. Change my airflow (intake from the rear as well).*

My problem with this is that my GPU exhausts hot air out the back. Wouldn't the fans then suck that hot air back into the system? Front intake didn't work as well as I'd hoped for me, not to mention it stretched my tubes a lot. But this could be different. Top/side exhaust, front/back intake.

*2. Add a shroud/shrouds.*

I only have one expendable fan for gutting, so one shroud on the push fan will have to do for now. I realize San Ace 1011's have a huge center, meaning a big dead spot. Maybe this will help more than I think it will?

*3. Lap the H50.*

I've lapped a TRUE Black and Q6600 previously, but I'm worried about this since my H50 is still under warranty. Unlike for heatsinks, for a closed loop like this, that could come in handy in case of a leak (read the Corsair forums lately?)

I don't really want to turn HT off since I really find it helps noticeably with my minimum FPS. And I do encode a lot of videos. I never did have stellar temps even with my lapped Q6600/TRUE Black. I hope either of the above solutions will help.

Any other suggestions guys?


----------



## alancsalt

Within the first few seconds seems too fast to me. Something wrong. I suppose that you have high humidity as well as ambient heat there which does make the air less heat absorbent, but still....










In this pic the blue led fan (50cfm) in the back of the front bay area is mounted on a cut down cd writer case, blowing straight at the ultra kaze 3000rpm on a 25mm/1" shroud on the rad. That's blowing as exhaust out of the case.

The sideways fan is equalising the sli temps, as well as adding airflow to the NB/IOH, which already has an extra (mostly hidden in this photo) 45mm fan right on top of it.

That setup gave me the best cooling I could get.


----------



## ELEKTRIK_BLUE

modified h50 closed loop clear tubing greenish/yellow coolant 74% distilled water 25%coolant 1% iodine/cavicide mix. i have this set up in a pull configuration mounted on the top of my haf 912. im idling at 20-22c depending on ambient temp and pull 27-29c full load. i used to run a push pull config but i ditched the push fan because with just a single pull fan was achieving the same performance as a push pull.

sorry for the crap quality of this pic its the only one i have for now


----------



## AK-47

my temps went up after my last reseat








is there a youtube vid on how to properly put the h70 on the cpu?


----------



## alancsalt

[ame="[URL=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3r4ITJm3fvE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3r4ITJm3fvE"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3r4ITJm3fvE[/ame[/URL]]

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=corsair+h70+installation&aq=2


----------



## ArcticZero

So I just tried another reseat just now after reading some new material. I'm aware that when a heatsink base an IHS have excellent contact with each other, a suction is formed wherein it requires some amount of force to separate the two.

When you unscrew the retention bracket of your H50, does the pump immediately start moving around due to the tension from the tubes? Or does it stay stuck to the IHS? Mine started moving around right away, which I take isn't a good sign.

Tried pushing the pump down manually and THEN screwing in the retention bracket. Temps are pretty much the same (1c drop or so?)

Now, manually grabbing both the CPU and pump and pressing them together with the used TIM layer makes the CPU stick firmly to the base. I can let go of it and it'll stay there. I don't see the same effect when it's fully installed, however.

Also...










When you install your H50, does the CPU fit into the highlighted section? I noticed the notches on the retention bracket don't allow for that, and it's always skewed one way or another, and one or two screw holes always come in contact with my IHS. Is this normal?


----------



## Jmartinez06

Im about to install, what way should the rad be facing? Tubes top or bottom?


----------



## [email protected]

This is why i don't like the H50. The base of the H70 is so much better cuz of the way it's designed. I think there is too much weight on the back of the H50 causing it not to even contact the cpu.

I had problems with the H50 in the past because i think it's simply because if you are messing around inside your case like cleaning for example. DO NOT touch the cpu block.. cuz if you touch it, you will likely move it.. it's so big and i did and i saw temp changes long time ago and it smeared the thermal. So i had to re-apply.

But today i run H70 at first install quite awhile ago.. i got this before Dec started anyways and it runs like a breeze at first install cuz i made sure i held the cpu water block DOWN while screwing so i screw the screws X shaped so it evens up.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jmartinez06;11806577*
> Im about to install, what way should the rad be facing? Tubes top or bottom?


It really doesn't matter which way as long you can install it but then again i have been told it's better on the bottom so the pump doesn't have to work harder if they were facing up the sky.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArcticZero;11806158*
> So I just tried another reseat just now after reading some new material. I'm aware that when a heatsink base an IHS have excellent contact with each other, a suction is formed wherein it requires some amount of force to separate the two.
> 
> When you unscrew the retention bracket of your H50, does the pump immediately start moving around due to the tension from the tubes? Or does it stay stuck to the IHS? Mine started moving around right away, which I take isn't a good sign.
> 
> Tried pushing the pump down manually and THEN screwing in the retention bracket. Temps are pretty much the same (1c drop or so?)
> 
> Now, manually grabbing both the CPU and pump and pressing them together with the used TIM layer makes the CPU stick firmly to the base. I can let go of it and it'll stay there. I don't see the same effect when it's fully installed, however.
> 
> When you install your H50, does the CPU fit into the highlighted section? I noticed the notches on the retention bracket don't allow for that, and it's always skewed one way or another, and one or two screw holes always come in contact with my IHS. Is this normal?


I honestly don't think there is anything wrong with the H50 or the way your mounting it. I think its your high ambient temps and the use of HT that are causing your high load temps. There is a certain point/clock when oc'ing where heat will start to rise quickly the farther you push it. Maybe you just hit that point at 4GHz. Have you run any stress test at a lower clock speed? I know on my chip just going from 4GHz to 4.33GHz it made my load temps rise 8C even with my low vcore.


----------



## ArcticZero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t;11806668*
> I honestly don't think there is anything wrong with the H50 or the way your mounting it. I think its your high ambient temps and the use of HT that are causing your high load temps. There is a certain point/clock when oc'ing where heat will start to rise quickly the farther you push it. Maybe you just hit that point at 4GHz. Have you run any stress test at a lower clock speed? I know on my chip just going from 4GHz to 4.33GHz it made my load temps rise 8C even with my low vcore.


Actually, I managed to do some things just now that got my temps nice and cool.









First, I switched my H50 to do push/pull intake from the rear instead of exhaust. The sheer length of the 5970 actually creates two spaces of air inside the case instead of just one, so it doesn't heat up any more than it did.

Second, the fan filters I was using (air conditioning filters) did keep dust out, but the airflow wasn't as good as I had hoped once the dust started to collect. So I left the H50 without a filter (for now), and it gets a blast of room air.

Third, I noticed my retention bracket was ever so slightly bent.








Applied a bit of force to straighten it out, and that seems to have helped. I noticed my TIM wasn't spreading like I expected before this.

Now at 4ghz HT on, 1.2825v, I get idles of 45-50, and it takes nearly an hour or so of Prime95 to get it to 80c, which used to take just a second. I'd say that's a huge improvement considering my ambients.


----------



## [email protected]

Isn't 80c a little too much?


----------



## alancsalt

Maybe not if he has high ambient temps and high humidity. After "nearly an hour"..t'was said.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArcticZero;11804469*
> Thanks for the cover. I did answer a lot of those questions already.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By "immediately" on the temps, I do mean within the first 1-2 seconds after starting Prime95 Small FFT's.
> 
> Anyway, things I want to try:
> 
> *1. Change my airflow (intake from the rear as well).*
> 
> My problem with this is that my GPU exhausts hot air out the back. Wouldn't the fans then suck that hot air back into the system? Front intake didn't work as well as I'd hoped for me, not to mention it stretched my tubes a lot. But this could be different. Top/side exhaust, front/back intake.
> 
> *2. Add a shroud/shrouds.*
> 
> I only have one expendable fan for gutting, so one shroud on the push fan will have to do for now. I realize San Ace 1011's have a huge center, meaning a big dead spot. Maybe this will help more than I think it will?
> 
> *3. Lap the H50.*
> 
> I've lapped a TRUE Black and Q6600 previously, but I'm worried about this since my H50 is still under warranty. Unlike for heatsinks, for a closed loop like this, that could come in handy in case of a leak (read the Corsair forums lately?)
> 
> I don't really want to turn HT off since I really find it helps noticeably with my minimum FPS. And I do encode a lot of videos. I never did have stellar temps even with my lapped Q6600/TRUE Black. I hope either of the above solutions will help.
> 
> Any other suggestions guys?


1. no , thats the least of your worries .

2.yes , Shrouds are good ..they quiet down the noise and also direct the airflow much easier ..Like a tunnel

3.yes , lap your h50 nothing will go wrong . Just give it a light sand to smoothen the surface . I reccomend lapping your cpu also . You will never see any really good results until you do so . People might say its risky but its really easy and aslong as ur careful u wont damage anything guarenteed , i think infact this is one of the best things to do to your cpu for watercooling along with good thermal paste ur temps will drop 100%

at first i didnt really read your post thourougly , i jst saw u had bad temps and went on with the questions .


----------



## xstasy




----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArcticZero;11807741*
> Actually, I managed to do some things just now that got my temps nice and cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, I switched my H50 to do push/pull intake from the rear instead of exhaust. The sheer length of the 5970 actually creates two spaces of air inside the case instead of just one, so it doesn't heat up any more than it did.
> 
> Second, the fan filters I was using (air conditioning filters) did keep dust out, but the airflow wasn't as good as I had hoped once the dust started to collect. So I left the H50 without a filter (for now), and it gets a blast of room air.
> 
> Third, I noticed my retention bracket was ever so slightly bent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Applied a bit of force to straighten it out, and that seems to have helped. I noticed my TIM wasn't spreading like I expected before this.
> 
> Now at 4ghz HT on, 1.2825v, I get idles of 45-50, and it takes nearly an hour or so of Prime95 to get it to 80c, which used to take just a second. I'd say that's a huge improvement considering my ambients.


You said u pushed on the pump and it made no difference ? that pump needs to be tight up against that cpu to transfer heat from it to your h50.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xstasy;11809356*


That looks great , what a good job it looks so smooth


----------



## xstasy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11809439*
> That looks great , what a good job it looks so smooth


Thank you


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11809391*
> You said u pushed on the pump and it made no difference ? that pump needs to be tight up against that cpu to transfer heat from it to your h50.


ArcticZero already fixed it, just before your last two posts on the subject.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArcticZero;11807741*
> Actually, I managed to do some things just now that got my temps nice and cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, I switched my H50 to do push/pull intake from the rear instead of exhaust. The sheer length of the 5970 actually creates two spaces of air inside the case instead of just one, so it doesn't heat up any more than it did.
> 
> Second, the fan filters I was using (air conditioning filters) did keep dust out, but the airflow wasn't as good as I had hoped once the dust started to collect. So I left the H50 without a filter (for now), and it gets a blast of room air.
> 
> Third, I noticed my retention bracket was ever so slightly bent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Applied a bit of force to straighten it out, and that seems to have helped. I noticed my TIM wasn't spreading like I expected before this.
> 
> Now at 4ghz HT on, 1.2825v, I get idles of 45-50, and it takes nearly an hour or so of Prime95 to get it to 80c, which used to take just a second. I'd say that's a huge improvement considering my ambients.


Ah I don't think you posted anything about air filters on your rad fan before unless I missed it lol. The plastic back plates that come with the H50 are garbage. I noticed if you try and tighten down the bolts too much you actually start to turn the threaded pieces inside the plastic backplate and they won't go any tighter. I swapped mine out for a metal backplate so I could tighten it down nice and tight without worrying about the threads spinning. I'm glad to hear your temps got better though







. As for lapping the H50 I know mine was very flat right out of the box so lapping wasn't necessary (I did it anyways) but most cpu's aren't so lapping the cpu should give you even better temps if done correctly. I only saw maybe a 1C drop in load temps after lapping both my H50 and cpu but they were both pretty dam flat to begin with so I wasn't expecting much.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;11809486*
> ArcticZero already fixed it, just before your last two posts on the subject.


Sorry dude i dont live on here like u do , i miss a few posts here and there .

atleast i swing by and try to help =)

You love picking on me dont you ? lol


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11810734*
> Sorry dude i dont live on here like u do , i miss a few posts here and there .
> 
> atleast i swing by and try to help =)
> 
> You love picking on me dont you ? lol


No


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;11811169*
> No


Yes


----------



## SteveClay




----------



## Dream Killer

a bit dirty, havn't cleaned my pc in a long while


----------



## [email protected]

That is a weird ass case.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];11814315*
> That is a weird ass case.


It looks as though the pictures are upside down. Hard to tell though without at least a full side picture. His sig rig only lists a laptop.


----------



## Raji8

Question, and I figured I'd ask here since you guys should know, is it better to mount the H50 on one of the Top fan ports (improper word I think but meh) on my 922 in it's intake form or put it on the exhaust fan port with it exhausting. A push pull would be an option, I would just much rather have the air going over the rad if it's on the exhaust fan port to be...well exhausting the hot air rather then putting more into it.

Thanks guys









Edit: Oh and it's a AMD Phenom II 955 BE, sig rig is a bit outdated. And I'm running the poor stock HSF...yeah I know I'm going to catch hell for that.


----------



## seesee

juz a quick question..

I manage to get a 38mm fan shroud for my noctua p12.

May i know what is the length and type of screw I am suppose to ask for at the hardware shop? I'm heading down in 10 hours time but lazy to remove my fans and shroud to bring there for a measurement


----------



## Archer S

38mm + 25mm = 63mm (thickness of fans)
63mm + 2mm = 65mm (thickness of fans plus 2mm to go into the rad)

Approximately 65mm, or 2.56 inches should be fine. If they don't have that get something a bit longer and use washers so the screw doesn't puncture the rad.


----------



## Dream Killer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];11814315*
> That is a weird ass case.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carfanatic;11814420*
> It looks as though the pictures are upside down. Hard to tell though without at least a full side picture. His sig rig only lists a laptop.


lian li v-1000 case


----------



## ArcticZero

I take it back guys. My temps are still not very good. I forgot to take into account that the AC had been turned on last night. Though somewhat better than before, it isn't anything significant. Still idling at 50c and loading at 80c within a few seconds of Prime, literally.

I *still* don't get a "suction" effect when I take the retention ring off. The pump just starts moving immediately as the ring loosens up. Is this normal, or am I just not getting good contact? Because holding both surfaces together with a bit of TIM, when not installed on the mobo, makes the CPU stick to the base. And it takes a lot of effort to twist and pull the two apart.

Would it help to use the LGA775 mounting holes instead? I still have my old TRUE metal back plate.

I'd appreciate if someone could post close up pics of their H50 installed on an LGA1366 socket. Preferably showing the four push pins on the side. Thanks again guys.


----------



## jasyn

hey guys i've finally installed the h70 into my system .. i have one question regarding the 3 pin connector that is coming from the heatsink. i assume that it is suppose to go to the location of "cpu fan" on the motherboard, but i actually have it rerouted to the back to a 3 pin to 4 pin power supply type connector. is this okay?

i get a cpu fan error due to this on my crosshair iv formula but temps seem fine.


----------



## deathmage

How do I add another fan to the H50? Duct tape, glue? sheet-rock-screws?


----------



## Dream Killer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jasyn;11818143*
> hey guys i've finally installed the h70 into my system .. i have one question regarding the 3 pin connector that is coming from the heatsink. i assume that it is suppose to go to the location of "cpu fan" on the motherboard, but i actually have it rerouted to the back to a 3 pin to 4 pin power supply type connector. is this okay?
> 
> i get a cpu fan error due to this on my crosshair iv formula but temps seem fine.


yes, the pump motor is supposed to be running at full 12v. it's prefered to hook it up your way. you can hook up the radiator fan on the "cpu fan" header on your mobo, or set your bios to ignore the fan speeds to prevent the fan error message


----------



## jasyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dream Killer;11818743*
> yes, the pump motor is supposed to be running at full 12v. it's prefered to hook it up your way. you can hook up the radiator fan on the "cpu fan" header on your mobo, or set your bios to ignore the fan speeds to prevent the fan error message


thank you very much


----------



## Dream Killer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArcticZero;11817800*
> I take it back guys. My temps are still not very good. I forgot to take into account that the AC had been turned on last night. Though somewhat better than before, it isn't anything significant. Still idling at 50c and loading at 80c within a few seconds of Prime, literally.
> 
> I *still* don't get a "suction" effect when I take the retention ring off. The pump just starts moving immediately as the ring loosens up. Is this normal, or am I just not getting good contact? Because holding both surfaces together with a bit of TIM, when not installed on the mobo, makes the CPU stick to the base. And it takes a lot of effort to twist and pull the two apart.
> 
> Would it help to use the LGA775 mounting holes instead? I still have my old TRUE metal back plate.
> 
> I'd appreciate if someone could post close up pics of their H50 installed on an LGA1366 socket. Preferably showing the four push pins on the side. Thanks again guys.


that doesn't sound good. can you post pictures?

i'll try to show you mine when i get back home from work.


----------



## rafarataneneces

I have a question regarding the Intel Core i7 950

How much OC can I typically get if I use the Corsair H50 water cooling?

I added Push/Pull configuration, one fan outside the case, and another fan inside the case attached to the radiator, pulling cold air from outside to cool the radiator

Thanks in advance

with the Intel Core i7 875k I reached temperatures of 85C under full stress and I overclocked the CPU to 4.2Ghz


----------



## cjc75

I am about to order some new Fans with some Xmas money that I got...

I am looking at the Scythe AP15 GT's because obviously it seems everyone prefers them, especially for the Corsair H50's.

But I noticed they have about the same CFM (58 on Scythe, 69 on CM's) and about the same max RPM (1850) as my current Cooler Master R4's, so I am curious if they would really show any improvement over my current Cooler Master R4's?


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cjc75;11819269*
> I am about to order some new Fans with some Xmas money that I got...
> 
> I am looking at the Scythe AP15 GT's because obviously it seems everyone prefers them, especially for the Corsair H50's.
> 
> But I noticed they have about the same CFM (58 on Scythe, 69 on CM's) and about the same max RPM (1850) as my current Cooler Master R4's, so I am curious if they would really show any improvement over my current Cooler Master R4's?


The R4's really aren't as bad as everyone says for rads. I have 2 of the in push/shroud/pull on my H50 and it give me almost as good load temps(within 1-2C) as I had when I ran the Panaflo ultra pushing (114cfm) with a shroud and an R4 pulling. The GT's will most likely be quieter and may yield a 1-2C drop over the R4's. I haven't personally used the GT's but guys like them for rads cause they have decent static pressure and are pretty quiet.

According to this review on an OC'd i7 870 (4GHz) on a Meghalems cooler the single R4 beat a single GT 1850 by .5C and the H50 rad is less restrictive then the Meghalems

Fan Reviews

The CM Blade master is about 1.5C better than the R4 according to that review as well.


----------



## mothman

Good to see another PC-V1000 user here. I could tell when the poster below called your case weird that most of the people here are children with kiddie cases and wouldn't recognize the Lian Li PC-V1000 as one of the best cases ever made. Check mine on P.1557 I've got my H50 up front with a BZ-502 and it works great.


----------



## Dream Killer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mothman*


Good to see another PC-V1000 user here. I could tell when the poster below called your case weird that most of the people here are children with kiddie cases and wouldn't recognize the Lian Li PC-V1000 as one of the best cases ever made. Check mine on P.1557 I've got my H50 up front with a BZ-502 and it works great.


nice rig there. i wouldnt call the v-1000 the best case ever, i would give that to the v-1200. i like the v-1000 because of its wierd inverted configuration. with two video cards blasting heat, i'd much rather have it above the cpu. havn't really done any testing to see if it's cooler that way but it gives me peace of mind.

as for your case, its a nice setup. i was going to do the same thing but i'm too cheap to buy the bz-502. i can actually mount my h50 on the lower front 120mm intake but the hard drive cage is in the way. the hx1000 is too long to move the cage on the other spot. however, im happy the way it is so that's how it stays i guess.

i also have a few other lian li's and i really miss the mobo tray when working on the v-1000. just makes hiding cables so much easier.

ps: wow that's a lot of fans. even oced, i don't think you need that much.


----------



## deathmage

I have a E8400 @ 3.6ghz that is running at 65c on load in world of warcraft with the H50, is that about normal?

I didnt put additional paste on the E8400, i just put the H50 right on the E8400 with the paste provided, would that cause it have a temperature difference, it idles without a load at 39c.

I didnt apply paste directly to the cpu because it said it wasn't good, is that valid?


----------



## rkl1985

Hey guys, so I moved back to my parents till I get back onto my feet again and after setting my rig back up and turning it on I heard a strange bubbling/water sound, I am assuming its from the H70, maybe because I had my pc on its side and so forth to clean the dust out? It's been running fine and the sound quickly faded away.


----------



## kh90123

Hey guys I am getting the H70 to replace my Thermalright Ultra 120, and since I used two fans on my Thermalright (Delta fan, max 5200rpm, and an Ultra Kaze fan, 3000 max rpm), if I were to use those two fans on the radiator for push pull configuration, which one is better to 'push', and which one is better to 'pull'?

Is it not advisable to use fans with different rpm on heatsinks/radiator?

Which configuration would be better for my case, rear intake/rear exhaust, considering that I have two crossfire 6850 dumping heat into the case, and also the option to change the direction of airflow of a 20mm side panel fan?


----------



## Mako0312

Just ordered my H70 from Best Buy.


----------



## Ecstasis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mako0312;11826113*
> Just ordered my H70 from Best Buy.


Should have checked them on Frozen CPU....they're only like 80 dollars right now.


----------



## ArcticZero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArcticZero;11817800*
> I take it back guys. My temps are still not very good. I forgot to take into account that the AC had been turned on last night. Though somewhat better than before, it isn't anything significant. Still idling at 50c and loading at 80c within a few seconds of Prime, literally.
> 
> I *still* don't get a "suction" effect when I take the retention ring off. The pump just starts moving immediately as the ring loosens up. Is this normal, or am I just not getting good contact? Because holding both surfaces together with a bit of TIM, when not installed on the mobo, makes the CPU stick to the base. And it takes a lot of effort to twist and pull the two apart.
> 
> Would it help to use the LGA775 mounting holes instead? I still have my old TRUE metal back plate.
> 
> I'd appreciate if someone could post close up pics of their H50 installed on an LGA1366 socket. Preferably showing the four push pins on the side. Thanks again guys.


Anyone?


----------



## [email protected]

Has anyone tried this?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_172&products_id=24721

Would be a good experiment to see if airflow can be controlled better on the H70 rad?

I myself have thought of getting these.. if i do i will report you guys back if it actually changes the way the air flows in the RAD.

Heck i even though of having all of these in my tower..maybe airflow will have much more control i dunno? Theories?


----------



## Silvos00

Isn't that the principal behind using a shroud?


----------



## ArcticZero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silvos00;11826669*
> Isn't that the principal behind using a shroud?


Well technically, the shroud is there to eliminate the dead spot on the center where the fan motor is.


----------



## mistax

h50 or h70 since i dont have the fund to do rs360 + ek 470 block


----------



## mothman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dream Killer;11822453*
> nice rig there. i wouldnt call the v-1000 the best case ever, i would give that to the v-1200. i like the v-1000 because of its wierd inverted configuration. with two video cards blasting heat, i'd much rather have it above the cpu. havn't really done any testing to see if it's cooler that way but it gives me peace of mind.
> 
> as for your case, its a nice setup. i was going to do the same thing but i'm too cheap to buy the bz-502. i can actually mount my h50 on the lower front 120mm intake but the hard drive cage is in the way. the hx1000 is too long to move the cage on the other spot. however, im happy the way it is so that's how it stays i guess.
> 
> i also have a few other lian li's and i really miss the mobo tray when working on the v-1000. just makes hiding cables so much easier.
> 
> ps: wow that's a lot of fans. even oced, i don't think you need that much.


No I don't overclock. I use my rig primarily for Autocad apps. About the fans, mine is a Plus II that came with the upper exhaust. I had added the front fan to balance the airflow, two supply/two exhaust. Yeah I thought about the lower front mount but there's no way to route the pump up to the mobo and I don't think the hoses are long enough and yes the inverted mobo does give a little more security if the pump failed we might escape with minimal damage.


----------



## ArcticZero

Hope someone can help me with my questions as well.


----------



## Xristo




----------



## ArcticZero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11828209*
> _Snip_


Might I ask what fan you're using on your H50? I'm beginning to wonder if my high temps could be a result of the rad not being cooled properly due to my 38mm's huge dead spot in the center.


----------



## Magus2727

You may want to clean off the H50 and check to see how flat the surface actually is. Corsair will still warranty and encourages for the consumer to lap the H50/H70 since their process would cause huge price hikes if they where to lap each one to a "mirror" like finish.

it is sad to say that the quality of the base plates have been called into question before, and this or getting a replacement unit is Corsairs solution.

An easy test is get some say 1200 grit and take 1 or 2 smooth passes and see if there are any low or high points on the plate. this fine of grit will have no impact if you choose not to actualy lap the H50 yet should give you some sense of how true the plate it.


----------



## TG Goose

How tight is everyone tightening the H50 to the cpu? I've got mine on really tight, and I have no issues at all. With my old OCZ Vendetta II, I saw a 3-5C temp difference between cores 3-4 and 1-2. Now with the H50 on tight, I get barely any fluxuations between core temps. Basically only when that core is doing a process the temp rises, otherwise all cores read the same temp.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TG Goose;11829203*
> How tight is everyone tightening the H50 to the cpu? I've got mine on really tight, and I have no issues at all. With my old OCZ Vendetta II, I saw a 3-5C temp difference between cores 3-4 and 1-2. Now with the H50 on tight, I get barely any fluxuations between core temps. Basically only when that core is doing a process the temp rises, otherwise all cores read the same temp.


That is a very relative question If I have 24" biceps tight might be one thing... for the 15 kid who works out with 5lb dumbbells something different... unfortunately I doubt any of us have used a torque screw driver to the recommended spec. (Most fasteners have a spec).

One of these should be used ( 



) with a spec to... will find it in a sec... humm they dont mention any thing... perhaps the MB may have a TQ spec on what the cooler should be tight to... I think if you follow the guide though that comes with it you will have it tight enough...


----------



## TG Goose

I thought about using my torque wrench, but without torque specifications from Corsair, its kind of moot. I mean I've got mine on so tight, that you'll either strip the screw head or break the motherboard if you get it any tighter.


----------



## kh90123

Hey guys I am getting the H70 to replace my Thermalright Ultra 120, and since I used two fans on my Thermalright (Delta fan, max 5200rpm, and an Ultra Kaze fan, 3000 max rpm), if I were to use those two fans on the radiator for push pull configuration, which one is better to 'push', and which one is better to 'pull'?

Is it not advisable to use fans with different rpm on heatsinks/radiator?

Which configuration would be better for my case, rear intake/rear exhaust, considering that I have two crossfire 6850 dumping heat into the case, and also the option to change the direction of airflow of a 20mm side panel fan?


----------



## drBlahMan

_Is there anybody in this club has upgraded to the H70 from the Megahalems or NH-D14 and have no regrets for doing so_*?* I'm thinkin' about buying the H70 w/ (2) GT-AP15's and having a 25mm duct between one of the fans and radiator. Am I thinkin' wisely about this setup or should I reconsider my selection of fans*?*


----------



## =JLumbs=

Hey guys im sure one of you guys had a H50 and upgraded to an H70..................is it worth it? is there any better performance? I have one cause it was on a boxing day sale for $65 after rebate $79 before and i have a few day before being able to return it......

Right now on my sig rig when gaming on real temp it hits in low 60s to mid 60s i would like to hit in around 60 i want a difference of 3-6degrees will it give me that?

On my H50 i have a push/pull with scthye kazes 110cfm and i want to plan on using them for the H70.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kh90123;11829276*
> Hey guys I am getting the H70 to replace my Thermalright Ultra 120, and since I used two fans on my Thermalright (Delta fan, max 5200rpm, and an Ultra Kaze fan, 3000 max rpm), if I were to use those two fans on the radiator for push pull configuration, which one is better to 'push', and which one is better to 'pull'?
> 
> Is it not advisable to use fans with different rpm on heatsinks/radiator?
> 
> Which configuration would be better for my case, rear intake/rear exhaust, considering that I have two crossfire 6850 dumping heat into the case, and also the option to change the direction of airflow of a 20mm side panel fan?


RPM is not as important as the static pressure value. I would say which ever fan has the better static pressure put that as the push and the other as the pull. I have different fans as many people here do and have no issues. Shoruds will help if you have room even more to remove dead spots.

It depends on what all else is going on as far as location of intake or exhuast. if you have the tower in a corner or some tight place and you still have a case fan exhausting and PSU exhausting out the back I dont think you would see much of a difference between intake and exhaust configurations from the rear... the best is always to do an intake from the front, that usualy has the cool air with out any thing else dumping.

What do you use your PC for? and when you doing what ever you do are the 6850's running hot? what are their temps? I would say top exhaust and get an extra rear exhaust like this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811995027 (out of stock but find something similar) http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007998%20600035566&IsNodeId=1&name=PCI%20Slot%20Case%20Cooler

and have it exhaust out the top.


----------



## SillyCang

Hey guys, can the H50 pump handle a triple radiator?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*




































Nice set up yes but i can tell you seriously screw up your airflow.

It's not regulated right because you have fans going in front intake and your rear both fans on top and bottom is intake and the only thing exhaust is the top.

I think you're messing the air up creating a vaccum. I have the same tower as you and all my fans in front are intakes and all my rear fans even on the H70 is exhaust.

I wonder what are your idle and load temps even gaming?


----------



## reaper~

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*


_Is there anybody in this club has upgraded to the H70 from the Megahalems or NH-D14 and have no regrets for doing so_*?*


Actually I have both and guess which one is in my sig rig.







But seriously, I put the H70 in the sig rig because of the 800D being the worse case for air cooling. Before this I was using Megahalems and have no regrets switching to the H70.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SillyCang*


Hey guys, can the H50 pump handle a triple radiator?


I doubt that very much. IMO, the H50 pump isn't strong enough to handle a triple rad but I could be wrong.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SillyCang*


Hey guys, can the H50 pump handle a triple radiator?


Its a push for a double... at a tripple your flow would be VERY slow, you would not have the pressure needed to see an increase cooling.

if your looking at a tripple rad you are needing a full WC loop. you can do a simple non flashy set up for around $200 - $300. or less for the used section.


----------



## Mako0312

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ecstasis*


Should have checked them on Frozen CPU....they're only like 80 dollars right now.


Paid 85.XX shipped to me so I cant complain. Plus it's easy to return since theres a BB right down thr street.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## SpeacialFeatures

does anybody know if an h70 will fit on the sandybridge socket 1155 motherboard's? it cant be too different from socket 1156 can it?


----------



## werds

Thought someone might get a chuckle from this one. Completed upgrade of my wifes sig rig from an old Biostar mATX with a stock clocked e7400 to this i750 @ 4Ghz on an MSI P55-GD80 Monster

So during the process I realized the only simple way to keep the temps tamed on something like that inside one of these cases (Wife loves the pink and the size so I had to deal lol).

So I decided on an H70 and did all my standard setup and stress testing in my case until it was ready for transplant. Well DUH on me... I forgot to check if I could even mount it in her rig until I had it open and was moving stuff... lets just say the fan mounts were too small and I needed some sheet metal loving and some zip ties - was sad though that I couldn't break out the dremel or drill since the 6 month old and wife were asleep in the next room









Enjoy the pics! The only thing they don't show is the single rinky dink fan that WAS the exhaust in the case is now installed at the bottom pulling air in - Will have to figure out some future modifications that my wife can't see for more fans in the future lol














































Just don't tell my wife I jacked up her pretty lil case


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpeacialFeatures;11837693*
> does anybody know if an h70 will fit on the sandybridge socket 1155 motherboard's?


According to Corsair's Tech, yes.


----------



## SpeacialFeatures

cool thanks, may wait a while, just to make sure


----------



## kh90123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magus2727;11829331*
> RPM is not as important as the static pressure value. I would say which ever fan has the better static pressure put that as the push and the other as the pull. I have different fans as many people here do and have no issues. Shoruds will help if you have room even more to remove dead spots.
> 
> It depends on what all else is going on as far as location of intake or exhuast. if you have the tower in a corner or some tight place and you still have a case fan exhausting and PSU exhausting out the back I dont think you would see much of a difference between intake and exhaust configurations from the rear... the best is always to do an intake from the front, that usualy has the cool air with out any thing else dumping.
> 
> What do you use your PC for? and when you doing what ever you do are the 6850's running hot? what are their temps? I would say top exhaust and get an extra rear exhaust like this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811995027 (out of stock but find something similar) http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007998%20600035566&IsNodeId=1&name=PCI%20Slot%20Case%20Cooler
> 
> and have it exhaust out the top.


Thanks for the reply. Since both fans are 38mm vs the normal 25mm, I would assume that even at low rpm the static pressure is higher than a 25mm fan at the same rpm. I do not have top exhaust unless I dremel the case. The two 6850 are overclocked to 930Mhz, and will reach almost 80C when I am running games like Metro 2033 at near max settings.

Well after I get the cooler, which sadly, won't be till 4th of Jan, I will have to reconfigure better airflow for the case, and buy some good fans for the cooler. I will get some high rpm GentleTyphoon as soon as they are available in the US.

I guess it's all about experimenting and getting the best set up for each case.


----------



## seesee

hello guys, I brought my gf to the screw king in in my Country (Singapore)

and told me they don't sell H70 screws that is long enough for shroud + fan.

can someone kind enough to mail a set of screws? please

thanks

is there other solution to my problem?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seesee*


hello guys, I brought my gf to the screw king in in my Country (Singapore)

and told me they don't sell H70 screws that is long enough for shroud + fan.

can someone kind enough to mail a set of screws? please

thanks

is there other solution to my problem?


http://www.overclock.net/11766461-post15596.html my fix 4 me

http://www.overclock.net/11768920-post15600.html DJ4g63t's fix

http://www.overclock.net/11766844-post15597.html Mothman's fix

http://www.overclock.net/11769774-post15605.html Explanatory pic of Mothman's fix.


----------



## =JLumbs=

I would like to hear from anyone that has upgraded from H50 to H70 and got good results, it seems that i can not find any hard proof that the H70 outperforms the H50 with same push and pull fans......

Anyone????????


----------



## Magus2727

There was a study that its not really worth it if you already have the H50....

here is one...
http://epczone.net/reviews/battle-of...air-h50-vs-h70

Google H50 Vs H70....

If you have a Shrouded H50 with a Push pull you may have a 1-2* drop over a similar set up of the H70...


----------



## =JLumbs=

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


There was a study that its not really worth it if you already have the H50....

here is one...
http://epczone.net/reviews/battle-of...air-h50-vs-h70

Google H50 Vs H70....

If you have a Shrouded H50 with a Push pull you may have a 1-2* drop over a similar set up of the H70...


thanks for the reply quick.... the reason is ive done tonnes of research mostly here and the more i look into this the more confused i get.....it seems that there is no apple to apples tests......same fans but just one or not same fans or speeds etc.....

thats why i want to hear from the people that actually use these kits....


----------



## Magus2727

There are very few it may be worth while to create a new thread with a H50 Vs H70 in the title since this is a Very large thread and not every one looks at this since it moves quickly and is usualy full of "how are my temps", "can i over clock XXX to xxx", "what size screws do I need".

So a new thread may get those who have done the swap a "fresh" post to look at. not saying dont post here... but have to say many people get tired of answering the same thing just 2 pages or so back...

I think with just a "thicker" radiator if you already have push-pull does not give much of an increase. The big thing with the H70 in all the reviews (as you mentioned and am sure you know) they keep the 1 stock fan on the H50 and use the two stock fans for the H70.


----------



## zefs

Hello, after an absence from Hydro series I am back with the new H70. How can I monitor if the fans are running on maximum rpm? Speedfan says around 1050 rpm but max is 2000.
Do I have to do it on bios?

Yes the fans are connected on CPU(mobo)


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zefs*


Hello, after an absence from Hydro series I am back with the new H70. How can I monitor if the fans are running on maximum rpm? Speedfan says around 1050 rpm but max is 2000.
Do I have to do it on bios?

Yes the fans are connected on CPU(mobo)


HWMonitor will tell you fan speeds when they are connected to the mobo. You might have to go into the bios and disable some settings to get the fans to run at 100% all the time.


----------



## zefs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


HWMonitor will tell you fan speeds when they are connected to the mobo. You might have to go into the bios and disable some settings to get the fans to run at 100% all the time.


Ok, says fan1:1000, fan2:1400
Let me check bios, should be able to choose 2000 rpm...

Nope, cpu fans are set to 100% on bios. Any suggestions?


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zefs*


Ok, says fan1:1000, fan2:1400
Let me check bios, should be able to choose 2000 rpm...

Nope, cpu fans are set to 100% on bios. Any suggestions?


There might be a setting in the bios called smart fan or something like that depending on your mobo that you can disable to make them run at full speed all the time. Are you running both fans off the same cpu plug? Try them on another fan header and see what it does.


----------



## Rust1d?

Hey guys I have a question. I have a Hyper 212+ I bought from MC when it was like $16 sitting under my desk. I plan on getting n i7-2600k. How much more would I be able to OC with an H70? Is it worth the $80?


----------



## zefs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


There might be a setting in the bios called smart fan or something like that depending on your mobo that you can disable to make them run at full speed all the time. Are you running both fans off the same cpu plug? Try them on another fan header and see what it does.


Yes smart fan is off. Corsair manual says to run them both on the CPU header and the pump on whichever you want to.


----------



## =JLumbs=

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


There are very few it may be worth while to create a new thread with a H50 Vs H70 in the title since this is a Very large thread and not every one looks at this since it moves quickly and is usualy full of "how are my temps", "can i over clock XXX to xxx", "what size screws do I need".

So a new thread may get those who have done the swap a "fresh" post to look at. not saying dont post here... but have to say many people get tired of answering the same thing just 2 pages or so back...

thanks anyways...
I think with just a "thicker" radiator if you already have push-pull does not give much of an increase. The big thing with the H70 in all the reviews (as you mentioned and am sure you know) they keep the 1 stock fan on the H50 and use the two stock fans for the H70.



This is just what i am saying nothing concrete i thank you for the response.... like i said i wanna hear from someone that actually did the swap from H50 (push pull) to H70 (push pull) on the rig they are using...... i have started i think 2 threads already with little good results i will try again. I just hope i can find that one person that went from H50 push pull to H70 push pull..... thats why i posted here thinking there were peps that done it here.

EDIT: btw the review you mentioned i look at says that there is a very VERY good performance to go with the H70 with the same upgraded fans

http://epczone.net/reviews/battle-of...air-h50-vs-h70

And because of this site i might keep it and shelve the H50 for future mods....maybe 240rad, clear tubing, and res possibly


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *=JLumbs=;11842134*
> thats why i want to hear from the people that actually use these kits....


I switched from H50 to H70 and was using the same fans on both (2 x AP-15 in push/pull) and only saw 2 - 3c temp drop after the switch and that's about it. My post on this is in this thread somewhere. It's too long to sift through it.


----------



## zefs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaper~;11843930*
> I switched from H50 to H70 and was using the same fans on both (2 x AP-15 in push/pull) and only saw 2 - 3c temp drop after the switch and that's about it. My post on this is in this thread somewhere. It's too long to sift through it.


Yeah, I don't know why they didn't make it perform better, maybe add a 240 rad or whatever...
On their site they claim that the difference between H50 and H70 is around 15C though...


----------



## [email protected]

I'm sure later down the road Corsair may consider a bigger rad or huge phase change for us to try.. 2011 will be full of new stuff going on


----------



## =JLumbs=

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];11844180*
> I'm sure later down the road Corsair may consider a bigger rad or huge phase change for us to try.. 2011 will be full of new stuff going on


does anyone know if they are in the works for the new year H90 perhaps if so i will return the 70 and wait..... i would love to see 240 rad on it and keep everything else the same would be a minimum for me.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *=JLumbs=;11847097*
> does anyone know if they are in the works for the new year H90 perhaps if so i will return the 70 and wait..... i would love to see 240 rad on it and keep everything else the same would be a minimum for me.


You could add one yourself?

(Guide) H50 Replace Tubes and Res Mod.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *=JLumbs=;11847097*
> does anyone know if they are in the works for the new year H90 perhaps if so i will return the 70 and wait..... i would love to see 240 rad on it and keep everything else the same would be a minimum for me.


If your in the market for a water cooling loop with a 240 rad then check out this kit Rasa 240mm From all the reviews I've read it blows the H50/70 out of the water by 8-10C. Its the best bang for the buck kit out and is made up of quality components and all the review's I've read says its great. If you don't mind spending the extra money this one is available too XSPC 360. Either of these kits arent much more than the H70 and perform much better.


----------



## Sheyster

Looks like I'm the newest member of the club! I didn't bother to use the stock H70 fans. I picked up a pair of Yate-Loon SH's and they seem to work VERY well. The BIOS reports they're spinning at 2214 RPM on a splitter cable (the one that came with the H70). I decided to mount the system as intake since I felt this would be the better option for my case (CM Cosmos 1000). I mounted a Silverstone 120mm air filter on the outside of the case in an attempt to minimize dust intake. It does not seem to impede air intake much if at all with the dual Loons in push/pull. Directly above the H70 are 2 Scythe 110 CFM fans pulling air out of the case. At the bottom I have an Ultra Kaze 133 pulling in air. With this setup everything seems very cool and balanced. I run all 3 Scythe fans at 70-80 percent to keep the noise level down. I run the Loons at full speed (~88 CFM). Pretty happy with this setup so far and will probably keep it with my next setup which will most likely be a Sandy Bridge CPU and mobo.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *=JLumbs=*


This is just what i am saying nothing concrete i thank you for the response.... like i said i wanna hear from someone that actually did the swap from H50 (push pull) to H70 (push pull) on the rig they are using...... i have started i think 2 threads already with little good results i will try again. I just hope i can find that one person that went from H50 push pull to H70 push pull..... thats why i posted here thinking there were peps that done it here.

EDIT: btw the review you mentioned i look at says that there is a very VERY good performance to go with the H70 with the same upgraded fans

http://epczone.net/reviews/battle-of...air-h50-vs-h70

And because of this site i might keep it and shelve the H50 for future mods....maybe 240rad, clear tubing, and res possibly


I used to have a H50. So i switched to H70 and i liked it better because of the socket installation was so much easier than the H50. The H50 was too sketchy and wasn't secure imo and besides temps were way friggin better than the H50. Everyone's case and system is different so you get different results. I'm happy with mine.


----------



## ckybam3

I dont know if this has been talked about here since there are so many pages but the h50 is not flat at all. I saw a 6degree drop in temps from lapping the h50 (my cpu is not lapped). Another member saw a 10+ degree temp drop from lapping the h50. I think this should be put in the first post for new members.


----------



## Semper Fidelis

So I have read some mixed reviews on these... some people say they barely do better than air cooling and some say they are great. (I am talking about specifically the H50, haven't really read much on the H70)


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis;11856368*
> So I have read some mixed reviews on these... some people say they barely do better than air cooling and some say they are great. (I am talking about specifically the H50, haven't really read much on the H70)


They perform on par with the top air coolers. My lapped TRUE performed better than mine but after lapping the h50 it now performs better on load temps while the true had better idle temps. I used the same fan on both and my yate loon is louder pulling air through the rad than it was pushing through the TRUE. Thats the only difference imo was the sound really.


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckybam3;11857180*
> They perform on par with the top air coolers. My lapped TRUE performed better than mine but after lapping the h50 it now performs better on load temps while the true had better idle temps. I used the same fan on both and my yate loon is louder pulling air through the rad than it was pushing through the TRUE. Thats the only difference imo was the sound really.


So the H50 was actually louder than the air cooler? So since they are roughly on par performance wise I was thinking of just getting the water cooling unit for possibly less noise, but if the performance isn't as good and it is also louder... what's the point?


----------



## Xristo

just swapped my h50 to exhaust and the temps went up 2c , good to have the airflow right though .. Notice the corsair fan spinning off its head way over factory spec at about 2600+ rpm


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis;11857212*
> So the H50 was actually louder than the air cooler? So since they are roughly on par performance wise I was thinking of just getting the water cooling unit for possibly less noise, but if the performance isn't as good and it is also louder... what's the point?


The h50 makes little if any nose at all







the noise is dependant on the fans you are using .


----------



## Semper Fidelis

Wow that is a bright cathode... or is that just your camera? Where did you get that or did it come in the case already?


----------



## Capwn

I think Im the first person in history to have an H50, Love it... Go full loop, Then come back to an H50 and be just as happy....

Just thought I would share that.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11857302*
> The h50 makes little if any nose at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the noise is dependant on the fans you are using .


the unit itself makes no noise. However when I took the exact same fan off the TRUE and put it on the h50 rad its louder. I think its because it has to fight harder to get air through the rad and out the back of the case. Its definetly louder if you dont want to believe me its fine. its loud enough to where I am debating whether to keep it (got it used from a friend cheap).

I am sure its much qiueter with the stock fan. The unit with no fans powered on is silent really.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis;11857307*
> Wow that is a bright cathode... or is that just your camera? Where did you get that or did it come in the case already?


camera is iphone 3g lol , pretty crap . The case is an antec 1200 with blue and uv reactive ccfl bars . all im after now is some clear tubes and thermaltake uv reactive coolant =)


----------



## Spct

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis;11856368*
> So I have read some mixed reviews on these... some people say they barely do better than air cooling and some say they are great. (I am talking about specifically the H50, haven't really read much on the H70)


I saw your posts over in this thread,

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/904214-about-go-pickup-h70-4.html

Good to see you here doing some research.

The H50 and H70 are built to compete against top end AIR COOLERS.

I am not a fan of massive finned dual air coolers and the wieght they transfer to your cpu bracket, backplate, seems foolish. My case also had an side panel fan that limited the size of air coolers I could even consider.

The H50 is a clean install, minimum stress to backplate and a very simple install.

I wanted to go custom loop but my experience level and no real desire to squeeze every ounce of power outta my cpu (and possibly lower the life span).

The H50 was the obvious choice for me.


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Capwn;11857327*
> I think Im the first person in history to have an H50, Love it... Go full loop, Then come back to an H50 and be just as happy....
> 
> Just thought I would share that.


Just curious, what made you switch back to the H50?


----------



## Magus2727

An advantage of the H50 over a top end air cooler is you don't have 2lbs hanging off your MB... that's the reason why I went with it over traditional air cooler.


----------



## Jmartinez06

The fan that came with my h50 is loud.. Makes a whine noise... Any suggestions on how to fix?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semper Fidelis;11857212*
> So the H50 was actually louder than the air cooler? So since they are roughly on par performance wise I was thinking of just getting the water cooling unit for possibly less noise, but if the performance isn't as good and it is also louder... what's the point?


The other thing is that you don't have a big air cooling tower in the middle of your case barely clearing the side panel, and making it hard to put tall sticks of ram in.

I did not notice any noise difference to the true m'self, but some ppls are more noise sensitive than others....


----------



## Silvos00

Case also plays in to how loud it will sound.


----------



## JohnPrimeXXL

Count me in guys! H70 FTW!


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jmartinez06*


The fan that came with my h50 is loud.. Makes a whine noise... Any suggestions on how to fix?


If you have it as rear exhaust or intake and the fan is pushing or pulling through a "grate" in the case then cut the grate out there have been many reports of whining sound from the noise of the air going through grates. If you just want to check if it is indeed the grate take the H50 fan/setup off from where you have it mounted and see if it still whines.


----------



## Lord Xeb

H50 ^_^


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


If you have it as rear exhaust or intake and the fan is pushing or pulling through a "grate" in the case then cut the grate out there have been many reports of whining sound from the noise of the air going through grates. If you just want to check if it is indeed the grate take the H50 fan/setup off from where you have it mounted and see if it still whines.


this is true but I dont want to cut my grate Id rather just undervolt the fan and push them when I am benchmarking and such.


----------



## MetalBeerSolid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JohnPrimeXXL*


Count me in guys! H70 FTW!











You need a corsair case... then you'd have a full house









Edit: Add me!


----------



## dcyli

Hey guys!

I would like to join the club.

Here's a temporary picture of my build so far.

Once I finish it I'll do a repost in the future with better pictures.


----------



## mistax

How good are the 2 h70 fans and is a shroud needed.
Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


----------



## [email protected]

They control the airflow.. it works and help. I'm gonna order the nexus Airbeam and i'll get back to you guys if i see any difference between that and a regular shroud.


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax;11864191*
> How good are the 2 h70 fans and is a shroud needed.


The stock fans are decent but loud at full speed. It's better if you were to replace them with some aftermarket fans (AP-15 comes to mind).

A shroud is always good as it eliminates a fan's blind spot.


----------



## Minigunner

Count me in! Actually I added mah self. XD


----------



## mistax

2 gt and h70 is 140. As much as a rasa kit.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


----------



## MetalBeerSolid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax;11864395*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 gt and h70 is 140. As much as a rasa kit.
> 
> Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


The stock fans are fine, just use the included resistor cables to make them run at 1600rpm.


----------



## mistax

alright =) goona join the club than. rasa kit goona have to wait. Do wish i could get a loop though 40c 470gtx sounds nice.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax;11865413*
> alright =) goona join the club than. rasa kit goona have to wait. Do wish i could get a loop though 40c 470gtx sounds nice.


dude if you can afford the rasa just get it now. the h70 is just going to make you want to go full water all that much more and the rasa is awesome. I wouldnt have bought the h50 but I just got it for 45 from a friend so seemed a good deal to me.


----------



## Xristo

Custom loop > h70 / h50 > Air cooling

I still get impressed by my h50 everytime i look at the temps , 4.2Ghz idle 33/32/31/31 and never loads over 75c . I would be interested going full custom loop but thats just a headache and alot of maintanance , h50 is simple and does a very good job for what it is i think i will have mine for a very long time ... The unit never leaks , its neat and tidy very sleek looking apposed to your tower like heat sinks .. good ram clearence and the fact it has lots of potential with mounting , different fan combos , you can draw air from outside the case which with a regular hs you cant .. Iv had aircooling in the past and it was horrible nothing to brag about temps etc where as i can brag about the h50 all day long . I love it .

Only thing i regret was getting the h50 before i found out there was a h70 =(

The thing with the h50 is , out of the box it could be put in the same category as top end aircoolers .. But once you get rid of that thermal pad and replace it with ur own TIM , get better fans , lap the cpu and the block of the h50 and mount the rad somewhere with nice cool airflow thats when your going to see the h50 shine ..


----------



## dcyli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];11864208*
> They control the airflow.. it works and help. I'm gonna order the nexus Airbeam and i'll get back to you guys if i see any difference between that and a regular shroud.


2 or 1 of them?

With the configuration in my last post I think I'd want to have that adapter on the exhausting side.


----------



## briang191

I'm happy with the h70 i7 950 @ 4.2ghz. Everyday use at 41c. Well see if the temps increase in the summer. Easy install no maintenance.


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaper~;11858027*
> Just curious, what made you switch back to the H50?


First of all I didnt like the fact my cpu load temps always affected my gpu load temps, And vice versa... Second of all really man,, a fully watercooled rig is heavy... Going to lans was even more of a PITA... I mean yeah sure temps were awesome but if I ever go water again, Ityll be with an H50 or something ~ for my processor. Then have a dedicated loop for my gpu/s ..

An H50 properly set up can hold a hefty overclock on any Phenom II Quad.. I've pushed up to 1.6 daily on an H50 and stayed within spec on temps


----------



## mistax

 am i missing something. Or does the h70 not come with screw to mount both fans.


----------



## briang191

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax;11867754*
> am i missing something. Or does the h70 not come with screw to mount both fans.


If you purchased the h70 brand new then yes your missing the screws to mount the fans.


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Capwn;11867746*
> First of all I didnt like the fact my cpu load temps always affected my gpu load temps, And vice versa... Second of all really man,, a fully watercooled rig is heavy... Going to lans was even more of a PITA... I mean yeah sure temps were awesome but if I ever go water again, Ityll be with an H50 or something ~ for my processor. Then have a dedicated loop for my gpu/s ..
> 
> An H50 properly set up can hold a hefty overclock on any Phenom II Quad.. I've pushed up to 1.6 daily on an H50 and stayed within spec on temps


Ahh.. I see. Thanks for that clarifying that for me.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax;11867754*
> am i missing something. Or does the h70 not come with screw to mount both fans.


It should come with a set of screws for both fans.


----------



## mistax

hrmmmm. it was brand new but i only see some screw for the mounting bracket hrmmm.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Love my H50! Keeps my i5 750 @4.0GHz cool


----------



## briang191

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax;11868257*
> hrmmmm. it was brand new but i only see some screw for the mounting bracket hrmmm.


If I remember correctly the mounting screws should be in a separate bag from the mounting bracket.


----------



## kidaquarius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckybam3;11856321*
> I dont know if this has been talked about here since there are so many pages but the h50 is not flat at all. I saw a 6degree drop in temps from lapping the h50 (my cpu is not lapped). Another member saw a 10+ degree temp drop from lapping the h50. I think this should be put in the first post for new members.


Fill me in on this..
I'm aware of what lapping is/does,but short on details.
What exact materials do you use and what steps are taken to perform it?

[tapatalk on android]


----------



## nil405

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidaquarius;11869513*
> Fill me in on this..
> I'm aware of what lapping is/does,but short on details.
> What exact materials do you use and what steps are taken to perform it?
> 
> [tapatalk on android]


http://www.google.com/search?q=cpu+lapping+overclock.net&hl=en&prmd=ivnsfd&source=univ&tbs=vid:1&tbo=u&ei=01UhTezgJIqssAPO0dy_Cg&sa=X&oi=video_result_group&ct=title&resnum=6&ved=0CE0QqwQwBQ

maybe this well help, the materials and process are the same, just depends and how much you want to "Lap" and what tools you can personally get... you can machine lap, or hand lap...

look around on the forums.. the are some good guides.. im just one a flip phone so i it take me forever to find stuff...


----------



## ckybam3

in short lapping just makes the surface perfectly flat (if you do a good job). The flatter the surface the better the temps you get. If you lap a heatsink such as the h50 and lap your cpu you have two flat surfaces touching so more heat transfer = better temps. The h50 is not flat at all apparently.

all you do is get high grit sandpaper up to at least 1500 in my opinion and rub the heatsinks copper part on it in a certain fashion to get the copper flat. Do this and you see a big temp difference on the h50. I did it for my true as well since its not flat either. I havent lapped my cpu and wont because I dont want to risk bent pins.


----------



## kidaquarius

Awesome. 
Thanks guys.
Does anyone want to sell me their stock H50 fan?

[tapatalk on android]


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kidaquarius*


Fill me in on this..
I'm aware of what lapping is/does,but short on details.
What exact materials do you use and what steps are taken to perform it?

[tapatalk on android]


Three things:
Sandpaper varying grits
Time and patience.

Youtube lapping your CPU or heatsink you will get thousands of videos and how-to's.


----------



## tconroy135

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Three things:
Sandpaper varying grits
Time and patience.

Youtube lapping your CPU or heatsink you will get thousands of videos and how-to's.


I thought lapping was just for crazy people


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tconroy135*


I thought lapping was just for crazy people










so i am crazy for expecting my heatsink to be manufactured flat and fixing it because its not?


----------



## kh90123

Hey can anyone fill me in on how to get the fan shroud for the H70? What about the screws? Since I am using two 38mm thick fan I'd imagine that the screws have to be pretty long.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kh90123*


Hey can anyone fill me in on how to get the fan shroud for the H70? What about the screws? Since I am using two 38mm thick fan I'd imagine that the screws have to be pretty long.


Get some threaded rod from Lowe's or Home Depot (the thread pitch that you need ) and cut to length. set one end in the H50/H70 and use a nut on the other end to sandwich the fans to the H50. Do on both sides four corners....

search for a shroud on say Frozen PC or Performance-PCS and search for a Shroud... a few will come up and pick one you like...


----------



## Minigunner

Wow, thats super freaking cool! Nice tutorial, might have to mod mine some day.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magus2727;11873492*
> Get some threaded rod from Lowe's or Home Depot (the thread pitch that you need ) and cut to length. set one end in the H50/H70 and use a nut on the other end to sandwich the fans to the H50. Do on both sides four corners....
> 
> search for a shroud on say Frozen PC or Performance-PCS and search for a Shroud... a few will come up and pick one you like...


You don't have to buy a shroud though, you can even pick out a old fan of yours you don't like and rip the fan out and the rod that's holding the whole shroud. Sand it down a bit to a perfect circle and you got yourself a shroud.

Profit? FREE.


----------



## TheBigC

Sexy


----------



## Siezureboy

I envy your matrix my friend. I really do, I want one so bad, but I don't feel like spend that much money for a year or 2 old card that costs as much as a 5970 or newer GTX 580 for that matter. No offense though, great card and it also looks great.


----------



## [email protected]

Hey TheBigC, you know you could have mounted the cooler on top back rear fan instead of being above the video card? Check previous post.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckybam3;11870035*
> The h50 is not flat at all apparently.


Speak for yourself. My H50 was very flat right out of the box. Cpu's on the other hand are notorious for being uneven.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t;11878017*
> Speak for yourself. My H50 was very flat right out of the box. Cpu's on the other hand are notorious for being uneven.


Corsair has acknowledged that their heat sinks aren't flat and that is why they have stated and recommend to lap it and it does not void the warranty. So while you may have got lucky and have a very flat one others obviously have not and even the manufacturer acknowledged it.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carfanatic;11878749*
> Corsair has acknowledged that their heat sinks aren't flat and that is why they have stated and recommend to lap it and it does not void the warranty. So while you may have got lucky and have a very flat one others obviously have not and even the manufacturer acknowledged it.


Hmm interesting. I never heard of that but then again mine was flat so I never had a reason to go looking for answers.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t;11879072*
> Hmm interesting. I never heard of that but then again mine was flat so I never had a reason to go looking for answers.


What did you do to test the flatness? the stock surface isnt even smoothe there are grooves in it so that doesnt help either.

and yes lapping it doesnt void warranty its been stated in corsair forums.

http://forum.corsair.com/v2/showthread.php?t=80713


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckybam3;11879195*
> What did you do to test the flatness? the stock surface isnt even smoothe there are grooves in it so that doesnt help either.
> 
> and yes lapping it doesnt void warranty its been stated in corsair forums.
> 
> http://forum.corsair.com/v2/showthread.php?t=80713


I used a razor blade and a flash light to test it.


----------



## TheBigC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Siezureboy*


I envy your matrix my friend. I really do, I want one so bad, but I don't feel like spend that much money for a year or 2 old card that costs as much as a 5970 or newer GTX 580 for that matter. No offense though, great card and it also looks great.



I actually used to have a old Asus 5870 but it was defective and they sent me back a Matrix..


----------



## kidaquarius

I ordered four Scythe Gentle Typhoon 14s from KoolerTek for a push/pull on the radiator and for my case intakes.

The Antecs weren't cutting it anymore for the case intakes.
The foam filter on my Elite 335 was too much to handle for them.
I'm hoping the Scythes will outclass them.
From what I've read, they will.

For the push/pull, these fans appear to be the way to go.
I'm want to OC higher and need to cool things down to achieve that.

[tapatalk on android]


----------



## Siezureboy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheBigC*


I actually used to have a old Asus 5870 but it was defective and they sent me back a Matrix..










You lucky SOB


----------



## Xristo

Just to let everyone know iv been testing out the corsair fan at 17v and its been running like this for a month now and theres no sign of it going to give up , i think its a good idea because after all it was designed for a radiator and giving it some more cfm would only do good .. Im guessing its at around 2500 rpm , maybe faster . Performs really well on my rad with a shroud prime took me upto around 74c . Its relativly easy to overvolt a fan im suprised i havent heard much about it on here .. I got good results using the corsair fan its strong and i almost recommend it wont die with extra voltage . Only down fall it is abit loud at higher rpms .


----------



## Magus2727

Can you over-volt the fan using the computer PSU still? Serial a 12V and 3.3V/5V Line and then provide the 15.5v or 17V line to the fan? Does the PWM or RPM sense line still work?

What lines did you use to do this? Guessing you just cut a connector off and spliced in the connector.


----------



## ZearRow

I heard that the h70's stock fans are quite loud. S this true?
I dont mind noise because i have an over the ear headset that cancels alot of noises, and i usually have all 7 of my antec df-85 fans at max, but is the stock fans really that loud? I dont want a jet engine in my case lol


----------



## Magus2727

Jet engine no... Louder then an "average" case fan? Yes...

If the case is right next you you then it may be a little obnoxious, but if its on the ground or above the desk I have other fans that are louder then the stock fan.

The H50 stock fan is the same as the H70.. the H70 just comes with two.


----------



## ZearRow

My case is two feet away from me on the ground under my desk, i wont notice the noise?
And is it worth the money? I dont want a huge heatsink but idk if the h70 is worth the extra money than the h50


----------



## Magus2727

If your going from nothing to an H50/H70 then most will say the H70, gives about 2-3 lower temps at load and better idle temps also. (mostly because all the reviews use the H50 only with the single fan and the H70 with the two fans)

But the H70 is a good cooler. the reason why i went with the H50 (H70 was not out yets but would have gotten it over the H50 if it was) is I did not want 2+lbs of copper haning 7" off my MB.

I dont think you will be able to noice the fans to much or at least bother you. And if they do use a fan controller so they are slower if you dont have other noises going on.

You can also get shrouds that usualy drops the noise down since the air is less "turbulant" then with out them.


----------



## ZearRow

So ill be good with an h50 w an extra fan? I heard the radiator was thicker on the h70 which help transfer heat (or something like that) but if its only 2-3 different temps then i dont think its worth it. But since they are both good coolers then i guess ill decide when i get the money


----------



## Magus2727

Well The H50 has a higher profile, and the H70 does have a thicker radiator. But with a good set of fans and shrouds its fairly close. You get enought (I have found) air flow with good fans (AP15's or Yate Loon's) that the air has cooled to "ambiant" or as much as it can to give me low temps. The best thing you can do as been discussed in the last few pages is that Lapping the copper plate is a good idea and will give better temps.

You can usualy find the H50 also on sale at Best Buy (finaly something thats a good buy from them) or from the Egg with free shipping. Look around for the best deal.


----------



## ZearRow

Sorry for the noob question.. but whats lapping? Lol


----------



## [email protected]

Sick of noise?

Get this..

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g33/c117/list/p1/Ultra_Quiet-Computer_Case_Silencing.html

Good thing i don't have to worry because i wear a hearing aid lol.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magus2727;11886176*
> The H50 stock fan is the same as the H70.. the H70 just comes with two.


Wrong the H50 stock fan has a max of 1700rpm the H70 is 1600rpm or 2000rpm depending if you use the included resistors or not.


----------



## kh90123

The H70 shed 10C off idle temp and 10C off load temp, when using my delta fan as push fan, and UK3K as pull fan. As compared to using the Ultra 120 heatsink, I have been able to raise my OC from 3.84Ghz to 3.9Ghz on my Phenom 955.

I notice that even on the lowest fan speed, the temperature does not change much, which suggest the weak link in heat transfer is neither the radiator nor the fans.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carfanatic;11887146*
> Wrong the H50 stock fan has a max of 1700rpm the H70 is 1600rpm or 2000rpm depending if you use the included resistors or not.


Humm.... I thought I read some where that they where the same fan (same fan manufacture and design). a difference of 300 RPM I dont think would be to much of a difference between fans when there is almost that mush tolerance between builds of the exact same fan...

Lapping is using sand paper or some other abrasive medium to obtain a true smooth surface of the copper heat plate. Due to manufacture process it would add large costs to obtain this level of "flatness" if it was to be done by the manufacture. Instead the make as flat as ecenomical and if you are not satisfied you are required to make it flatter. Usualy you start out with 800 grit, move up to 1200, and end on 1500 or higher. This will ensure a true flat surface to mount on the CPU. Some do the CPU also doing the same thing, and for the same reasons. However Unlike a CPU when you Lap it it voids the warranty, Corsair will still hold its warranty 100% on a lapped H50/70.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];11887085*
> Sick of noise?
> 
> Get this..
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g33/c117/list/p1/Ultra_Quiet-Computer_Case_Silencing.html
> 
> Good thing i don't have to worry because i wear a hearing aid lol.


I actually had some dynamat lying around my basement from back when I was a car audio nut. I uses a few pieces on the big area's of my case and some near the fans and all the annoying rattles and hums the fan's/case used to make are gone







Now when the fan's are all on high all you hear is the air moving nothing else.


----------



## virus86

I installed a H50 and reduced all temps by 10C vs my old Zalman. Im currently using the stock fan for pull and a Cooler Master R4 for push. I just ordered another R4 and will replace the stock fan.


















Lowes doesnt have the 6-32 x 1-1/4, black, stainless steel screws. I got a 10 pack of zinc with nuts. As for the washers, do I get the #6? They have a 5 pack SS, but not black. Im going to check McMaster-Carr.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magus2727;11887344*
> Humm.... I thought I read some where that they where the same fan (same fan manufacture and design). a difference of 300 RPM I dont think would be to much of a difference between fans when there is almost that mush tolerance between builds of the exact same fan...


They have to be designed differently too.

Stock H50 fan 1700rpm 50cfm 29.75dBA
Stock H70 fan 1600rpm 50.35cfm 26dBA
Stock H70 fan 2000rpm 61.2cfm 31.5dBA

Without some kind of design change in the fan you can't lower fan speed by 100rpm and maintain the same(or slightly more)cfm.


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carfanatic;11888429*
> They have to be designed differently too.
> 
> Stock H50 fan 1700rpm 50cfm 29.75dBA
> Stock H70 fan 1600rpm 50.35cfm 26dBA
> Stock H70 fan 2000rpm 61.2cfm 31.5dBA
> 
> Without some kind of design change in the fan you can't lower fan speed by 100rpm and maintain the same(or slightly more)cfm.


Thanks for the stats! Know how the static pressure differes between them?


----------



## SteveClay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZearRow;11886817*
> Sorry for the noob question.. but whats lapping? Lol


lapping is


----------



## SteveClay

H70 FTW


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magus2727;11888438*
> Thanks for the stats! Know how the static pressure differes between them?


Never bothered to try to look them up my H50 fan is proudly serving as a shroud for my setup so didn't really matter much to me


----------



## Siezureboy

I need to get around lapping my h50 copper plate, I have a noticeable 2-3 degree difference between each core of my 930.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *virus86;11888372*
> Lowes doesnt have the 6-32 x 1-1/4, black, stainless steel screws. I got a 10 pack of zinc with nuts. As for the washers, do I get the #6? They have a 5 pack SS, but not black. Im going to check McMaster-Carr.


I had to get the silver as well







. The #6 washers are what I got and it works perfect.


----------



## Cee

add me too








dont know if that is clear enough. h70 and noctuas.


----------



## enri95

Hi, what's the best fan for h50? i dont mind a little noise (my case is loud)


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


Never bothered to try to look them up my H50 fan is proudly serving as a shroud for my setup so didn't really matter much to me










Hummm.... I am still using my H50 its my gehto thermaltake LED fans from 6 years ago that are my shrouds...


----------



## kh90123

Quote:



Originally Posted by *enri95*


Hi, what's the best fan for h50? i dont mind a little noise (my case is loud)


If you don't mind having a jet engine in your case, go here: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/delhigper.html

But jokes aside, I notice that a lot of people like to use Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15. If you are rich and want really silent fans, Noctua fans are fine too.


----------



## Magus2727

The key thing to look for is the static pressure IIRC the stock fans have around a 2.5mm - 3mm of static pressure. anything better then the stock will be a better fan.


----------



## purduepilot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *enri95*


Hi, what's the best fan for h50? i dont mind a little noise (my case is loud)


I like my Cooljag Everflow. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/58...R121225BU.html
Still haven't gotten a shroud on it yet, but idle speed puts my healthy overclock at 30C idle and 60% puts it at 50C when folding. 60% (1900RPM) isn't too loud and pushes quite a bit of air. 100% (2500RPM) sounds like a handheld vacuum cleaner and moves a heck of a lot of air.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Can you over-volt the fan using the computer PSU still? Serial a 12V and 3.3V/5V Line and then provide the 15.5v or 17V line to the fan? Does the PWM or RPM sense line still work?

What lines did you use to do this? Guessing you just cut a connector off and spliced in the connector.


Yes , yellow wire from the fan connects to the yellow line on any molex and the black to -5v on the 24 pin which in my case is a blue wire ...works perfectly , nothing has gone wrong so far =) defintaly gives the corsair fan that extra push it needs


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Can you over-volt the fan using the computer PSU still? Serial a 12V and 3.3V/5V Line and then provide the 15.5v or 17V line to the fan? Does the PWM or RPM sense line still work?

What lines did you use to do this? Guessing you just cut a connector off and spliced in the connector.


Yes , yellow wire from the fan connects to the yellow line on any molex and the black to -5v on the 24 pin which on my psu is a blue wire ...works perfectly , nothing has gone wrong so far =) defintaly gives the corsair fan that extra push it needs







Pm me if ur interested in doing it .


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZearRow;11885984*
> I heard that the h70's stock fans are quite loud. S this true?
> I dont mind noise because i have an over the ear headset that cancels alot of noises, and i usually have all 7 of my antec df-85 fans at max, but is the stock fans really that loud? I dont want a jet engine in my case lol


if you think its loud stock you should try it at 17v , thats when it sounds like a jet lol







i had my corsair fan packed up in the box for months , i pulled it out started overvolting it seeing what this fan could really do and im suprised .. this fan is stronger than i thought , to be constantly run at 17v for over a month now thats actually pretty impressive .. and the amount of air it moves is crazy !!! look at this for example..

anyone with an antec 1200 case knows the top big boy fan can easily hover a piece of paper over the top on high thats how strong it is , now that i have overvolted the corsair fan directly underneath in pull its actually so strong its taking over the top exhaust fan.. it wont even hover a tissue on high it gets sucked down by the force of the pull fan







amazing .


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


Yes , yellow wire from the fan connects to the yellow line on any molex and the black to -5v on the 24 pin which on my psu is a blue wire ...works perfectly , nothing has gone wrong so far =) defintaly gives the corsair fan that extra push it needs







Pm me if ur interested in doing it .


Well I saw some deltas that had a max voltage of 24V and wondered how best to do it. I am an EE student, and understand all that, just was not sure how the PSU would like the "cascading" of that. I thought of running them at 24V two 12V or 17V 5V and 12V but have not gotten past thinking about it...


----------



## Silvos00

Aren't 24 volt fans for server motherboards?


----------



## earwig1990

Ordered and on the way!


----------



## zetachi

So my H70 is waiting for me at home.







Its going into the CM 690 II advanced case replacing a hyper 212+ on in I7 930 OC to 4.0.

I'm looking for installation and fan options.

Some if seen have installed it in the 5 1/2 front bay which I'm considering since the rear of my case has exhaust from SLI 460's and is really hot I figure pulling air from their to put through the RAD is crazy.

I've been searching for Gentle Typhoons to replace the stock corsair ones but seems no one has them. Any one got any high static pressure fans they recommend?


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zetachi*


I've been searching for Gentle Typhoons to replace the stock corsair ones but seems no one has them. Any one got any high static pressure fans they recommend?



These CM Blade Master fans have great static pressure and cfm. Someone in this thread said they were great on his H50. I personally have CM R4's in push pull and they do pretty good and the Blade Master fans are even better than the R4's.


----------



## virus86

I finally have matching CM R4s on my H50. I was thinking of getting Blade Masters, but I would have to buy a pair vs buying another R4. Plus I love the blue lights, even though they are dim lol.

Update: I went to Ace Hardware and they have a MUCH better selection of screws vs Lowes. I got 4 stainless steel 6-32 x 1-1/4 and #4 washers. They are not black, but a worker suggested that I paint the heads when installed. I wont do it, such a hassle! The paint might scratch off if I have to remove the screw.


----------



## purduepilot

Shrouded my fan today. Used the stock H50 fan and ripped out the guts. I was going to leave my 120x25 everflow on the back of the case (exhaust) with the shroud between and the radiator on the side deeper inside the case, but the radiator wouldn't fit with my 140mm top case fan. Ended up having to shove the radiator up against the back of the case (screw holes _barely_ lined up with the holes in the case since the radiator is bigger than a standard 120mm fan), then did the shroud and fan as a push fan (still exhaust).

I thought I was going to be all set with the hardware, but couldn't get the right screws. I ended up getting some short 6-32 screws, cutting them down to about 3/8 inch with a hack saw, and using those to mount the radiator to the back of the case. Then I used more short screws to mount the shroud to the radiator, and used zip ties to mount the fan to the shroud. It's ghetto, but works for now. For the same fan speed (60%), my folding temps went from 55 to 50, so I'd say this was a pretty good investment. Next time, I'm just going to order the right screws off of frozencpu or whatever, instead of making two trips to two hardware stores to get what I thought would work, and failing.


----------



## cjc75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zetachi*


I've been searching for Gentle Typhoons to replace the stock corsair ones but seems no one has them. Any one got any high static pressure fans they recommend?


I have R4's on my H50 and they're awesome.

If your heart is set on the GT's then take a look at FrozenCPU.

They have the AP-15's in stock - LINKIE

But if you're gonna order, then order them quick cause FrozenCPU sells out super fast on those!

Also, take a note that Scythe has a new line of Gentle Typhoons coming out, which FrozenCPU already has listed but not in stock yet; but available for Pre-Ordering.

AP-29 @ 3000rpm
AP-30 @ 4250rpm
AP-31 @ 5400rpm

Best thing about those newer GT's in my opinion is that the fan blades are Black instead of white! I never liked white fan blades! LOL


----------



## kidaquarius

KoolerTek.com has Gentle Typhoons in stock.
I just bought four GT 14s.
Price was very reasonable.

[tapatalk on android]


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cjc75;11902989*
> Best thing about those newer GT's in my opinion is that the fan blades are Black instead of white! I never liked white fan blades! LOL


When did Scythe ever make fans with white blades? I have only seen gray myself.....I would love to see some white blade fans or something different other than the gray.


----------



## zetachi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cjc75;11902989*
> I have R4's on my H50 and they're awesome.
> 
> If your heart is set on the GT's then take a look at FrozenCPU.
> 
> They have the AP-15's in stock - LINKIE
> 
> But if you're gonna order, then order them quick cause FrozenCPU sells out super fast on those!
> 
> Also, take a note that Scythe has a new line of Gentle Typhoons coming out, which FrozenCPU already has listed but not in stock yet; but available for Pre-Ordering.
> 
> AP-29 @ 3000rpm
> AP-30 @ 4250rpm
> AP-31 @ 5400rpm
> 
> Best thing about those newer GT's in my opinion is that the fan blades are Black instead of white! I never liked white fan blades! LOL


well guess i waited to long









*ATTENTION!! You have ordered some items that are not available for immediate shipment today. These items are shown below and will be available soon (within 1-18 business days). US Shipments: for large orders we will do our best to ship all available items today and ship the remainder of your order once available with no extra shipping charges. International Shipments: will ship once all items are available.*


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carfanatic;11904399*
> When did Scythe ever make fans with white blades? I have only seen gray myself.....I would love to see some white blade fans or something different other than the gray.



















lol not trying to be a smartass.. Just a reminder about the wonders of spray paint.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Capwn;11905482*
> lol not trying to be a smartass.. Just a reminder about the wonders of spray paint.


Well better a smart one than a dumb one.....

Spray paint = void of warranty and even if it didn't then shortening the life of your fan. Unless you use some kind of mechanical painting technique there is no way to get a completely uniform coat of paint on every blade so you unbalance your fan thus less life and possible weird noises and other problems so not worth it.

Paint is fine for cases and the like but not on anything that moves.


----------



## purduepilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carfanatic;11906007*
> Well better a smart one than a dumb one.....
> 
> Spray paint = void of warranty and even if it didn't then shortening the life of your fan. Unless you use some kind of mechanical painting technique there is no way to get a completely uniform coat of paint on every blade so you unbalance your fan thus less life and possible weird noises and other problems so not worth it.
> 
> Paint is fine for cases and the like but not on anything that moves.


You're removing the fan from the shroud to paint it anyway, right? Balance it after you paint it by adding small amounts of paint where necessary.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *purduepilot;11907219*
> You're removing the fan from the shroud to paint it anyway, right? Balance it after you paint it by adding small amounts of paint where necessary.


I could care less about painting a fan personally I would never paint a fan ever.

All I want to see is these stock not painted white Scythe GentleTyphoon fans.


----------



## purduepilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carfanatic;11907318*
> I could care less about painting a fan personally I would never paint a fan ever.
> 
> All I want to see is these stock not painted white Scythe GentleTyphoon fans.


Okay.


----------



## kidaquarius

Yessssssss.










[tapatalk on android]


----------



## pali

Anybody have a H70 mounted in an Antec Dark Fleet 85 case. Wondering if there is room for a push/pull setup. Thanks!

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Krlll

Why are people spamming about Tapatalk?
Or is it automatic?


----------



## Plex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krlll;11913849*
> Why are people spamming about Tapatalk?
> Or is it automatic?


Are you actually asking if everyone is manually typing the exact same thing at the end of their post, simply to tout the software that they're using?

Sent from my PC using a keyboard


----------



## Krlll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plex;11914027*
> Are you actually asking if everyone is manually typing the exact same thing at the end of their post, simply to tout the software that they're using?
> 
> Sent from my PC using a keyboard


Yes thats what im asking...oh and


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krlll;11913849*
> Why are people spamming about Tapatalk?
> Or is it automatic?


They have to edit their settings to not include it but most do not. It is something with phone apps to type on forums like this.


----------



## Krlll

Well they should change it IMO,the software isnt even free.


----------



## purduepilot

When is OCN going to support a forum program that IS free? I hate paying for apps.


----------



## Plex

I'm using Tapatalk now from my phone but what I'm really waiting for is someone to make a good app for the iPad







.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plex;11914138*
> I'm really waiting for is someone to make a good app for the iPad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


They do it is called a garbage can and buy a netbook for cheaper


----------



## Plex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carfanatic;11914183*
> They do it is called a garbage can and buy a netbook for cheaper


If I wanted a netbook I would have bought a netbook.


----------



## Magus2727

No you can get the new Acer tablet/netbook that debued at CES today...


----------



## Krlll

*purduepilot* its not the actual cost that bothers me so much,its just I have more tolerance for advertising when its supporting something free.
Tapatalk wants both and people are going along with it,I suppose cause they get to show what phone they have,if it means that much just put your phone model in your sig.


----------



## kidaquarius

I leave the signature on so that people know I'm on my phone and not my PC.
Tapatalk is an excellent alternative to using a forum's website.
I have 6 forums bookmarked on my Tapatalk, so paying for it wasn't an issue. I use it a lot.

Back on topic- My Gentle Typhoons came and I stoked.

[tapatalk on android]


----------



## pali

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plex;11914027*
> Are you actually asking if everyone is manually typing the exact same thing at the end of their post, simply to tout the software that they're using?
> 
> Sent from my PC using a keyboard


Lolol win

Its not a big deal. Can't hate tapatalk for trying to make money. If you coded it don't say you wouldn't try to sell it. I was happy with purchasing it since it makes forums so much easier to use on mobile devices.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pali;11915041*
> Lolol win
> 
> Its not a big deal. Can't hate tapatalk for trying to make money. If you coded it don't say you wouldn't try to sell it. I was happy with purchasing it since it makes forums so much easier to use on mobile devices.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


I understand the whole idea of it but personally like someone said above they leave it there so people know they are on their phone.

....I edit mine to say sent using my phone not sent using a program I paid for and I am advertising for free.....

Grats on the GT fans BTW kidaquarius I love my AP-15 fans all I can hear from mine is a little bit of air movement and only when I have nothing playing sound.


----------



## _Carnage_

Hi, I've been working on a build and I have two questions.

1. Can you connect the H70's pump to the CPU_FAN fan connector to power it? If so, is there anything you gotta do after doing this?

2. Can you use the Y adapter to connect and control both fans with a single channel/dial from my Lamptron FC5V2 (supports 30W per channel) essentially controlling both fans at the same time?

Thanks!


----------



## Magus2727

dont know on # 2... but on #1, you just need to turn off any BIOS fan control so it will run at MAX. pumps you dont want to undervoltage or PWM it...


----------



## Mako0312

Got my H-70 in today









Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## kidaquarius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carfanatic;11915550*
> ...
> Grats on the GT fans BTW kidaquarius I love my AP-15 fans all I can hear from mine is a little bit of air movement and only when I have nothing playing sound.


I went with 14s because I thought four 15s might be too loud.
I'm going to have two of the GTs as case intakes and two in push/pull config on the radiator.
Hopefully the cooling performance of these 14s outperform my current setup and don't leave me begging for more.

[tapatalk on android]


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

I just saw that Corsair is getting an H60. How do you think that will stack up in comparison to the h50 and h70?


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gohan_Nightwing;11919354*
> I just saw that Corsair is getting an H60. How do you think that will stack up in comparison to the h50 and h70?


H50 & H70 are made by Asetek (in conjunction with Corsair). H60 is made by CoolIT. I'd wait for some reviews first since the real world performance varies a lot from what the manufacturers like to publish.


----------



## alancsalt

http://www.coolitsystems.com/index.php/en/about/press-releases/234-coolit-systems-announces-partnership-with-corsair.html

Not the same partners as H50/70? Oh, ninjas!


----------



## kidaquarius

Oh man, these Gentle Typhoons are *awesome*!
So much quieter then my last setup, they're practically silent!
My core temps are lower too, so it's a win-win!

Tomorrow I'm going to lap my H50 and from what others have said, I should see even cooler temps.
Stoked!


----------



## ckybam3

I added some washers to the screws on the h50 and saw another 3c drop in temps. I am a but dissatisfied with this heatsink at this point. The mounting system is simple but didnt put enough force on the cpu for my liking and the thing isnt flat at all. I am happy now that its leaning better temps. More room to oc I think.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kidaquarius*


Oh man, these Gentle Typhoons are *awesome*!
So much quieter then my last setup, they're practically silent!
My core temps are lower too, so it's a win-win!

Tomorrow I'm going to lap my H50 and from what others have said, I should see even cooler temps.
Stoked!



while your taking it down add some small washers to the screws above the grommets. and youll see at least a 10c drop im betting. it depends how flat your h50 is stock.


----------



## Xristo

Yes the pump needs to be very tight against the cpu , mine is tighter than it should be i tighten it as hard as they go until they are locked tight while putting pressure on the pump to reassure its tight , cos it may look and feel tight but it probably isnt . Lap your cpu , base of the h50 and add a few washers so its a lil bit tighter than it should be but obviously not over the limit or they will break and your temps will be great , it makes all the difference . Guarenteed .


----------



## kidaquarius

Lapped.










[sent from my android]


----------



## kidaquarius

So I reinstalled my H50 after lapping it and applying new TIM.
Sadly, my temps are the same as before.
I'm really starting to wonder if it's seating correctly on the processor.
Maybe it's tilted to one side?
At any rate, I'll let the TIM cure before I throw up a red flag.
To those that mentioned washers, are you putting those between the screw head and the plastic insert in the frame?
What size washers?

Picture:


----------



## cjc75

Is it worth upgrading an H50 to an H70?

Noting that the H50 is already in a Push/Pull with decent fans; would the H70 really give much more improvement? I am really, really interested in trying to push my Temps down even further to give myself some more Overclocking headroom...

My H50 at present, has a pair of R4's in push/pull, mounted on the rear of my case venting as rear exhaust (which I found to be working better then blowing as intake); and they also have a pair of 25mm shrouds sandwiched between each fan.

At present... its like this: <--airflow<--fan<--shroud<--case<--Rad<--shroud<--fan

So, if I took those Shrouds out, and put in an H70 with the R4's.

What I see any improvement?


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidaquarius;11924561*
> So I reinstalled my H50 after lapping it and applying new TIM.
> Sadly, my temps are the same as before.
> I'm really starting to wonder if it's seating correctly on the processor.
> Maybe it's tilted to one side?
> At any rate, I'll let the TIM cure before I throw up a red flag.
> To those that mentioned washers, are you putting those between the screw head and the plastic insert in the frame?
> What size washers?


Did you install the pump with the rad already attached to your case?

Before installing the pump/block make sure to let it sit with the rad higher to allow any air to escape to the rad and if you can run the pump with the hose attachments to the top,...to dispel any entrapped air.


----------



## kidaquarius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubfoot;11925885*
> Did you install the pump with the rad already attached to your case?
> 
> Before installing the pump/block make sure to let it sit with the rad higher to allow any air to escape to the rad and if you can run the pump with the hose attachments to the top,...to dispel any entrapped air.


Good idea.
I will test this theory.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidaquarius;11924561*
> So I reinstalled my H50 after lapping it and applying new TIM.
> Sadly, my temps are the same as before.
> I'm really starting to wonder if it's seating correctly on the processor.
> Maybe it's tilted to one side?
> At any rate, I'll let the TIM cure before I throw up a red flag.
> To those that mentioned washers, are you putting those between the screw head and the plastic insert in the frame?
> What size washers?
> 
> Picture:


yes below the screw head and above the grommet so that it doesnt fall off or anything. It makes a WORLD of difference. The mounting system for h50 is barely tight enough so it doesnt move but doesnt put proper pressure. You should have seen a temp drop from lapping but maybe yours was flat to start with. Did you check before you started? Also did you do a razorblade test to check for flatness now? Def add some small washers to the screws


----------



## Garanthor

I've been with this thread almost from the start and am just amazed at how much attention it's gotten.







Lots of happy H50 and now H70 owners out there. I am also fairly happy with my H50 and after going push/pull, mounting it in front drive bays and lapping both the H50 and my CPU, over time I found that I just wanted more. So I've finally broken down and ordered the Rasa 750 RX360 water cooling system. All fans will be in push pull (six total), and I'm mounting this externally on my HAF 922. Order should be in next week. Once everything is installed and running I'll post pics and both before and after temps for comparison. H50 was good and I have no problems recommending it to anyone but I'm expecting big things from my new Rasa kit (gen 2 double thickness 360mm rad!!







) More to follow.


----------



## _Carnage_

So which Gentle Typhoon fans would be best to replace the stock Corsair fans for the H70? The AP-15 or one of the newer higher speed ones?


----------



## Bobehud

Okay i came on here prior when i got my H70 and got a pair of Sycthe UK 3K's and said..noise..no problem..well after i built an intake shroud out of an old 120mm fan body it got louder...now...i was wrong...they cool great..Cannot fault them there.Some lapping and MX3 and i have not seen over 46c under any load testing program and i run 3.9/4.0 daily so its not performance.
I started really paying attention to the noise because i would put the computer to sleep when i leave in the Am and when i would get home i would hit the space bar and it would ramp up instantly and i had to put my cell phone next to me or in a water glass in the living room so i could hear it.
i knew then,that yeah i had been wrong.So anyone have any advise on some fans that can do 85% of what these can with less noise.have to keep small kittens away from the back of the computer as this damn thing will suck
them right in...lol...ummm only kidding..a little....really.


----------



## Xristo

with the corsair fan overvolted , it is extremely loud i mean i can hear it over the 10 other fans inside the case even with a shroud to quiet it down abit . The noise dont bother me though , my friends think its crazy .. lol but i know its hard at work , i had noctua fans in push pulll before i swapped back to the corsair fan and overvolted it ..they were practically silent but the airflow was crap .. Silence = Decreased performance , thats when i decided to forget about silence and overvolted the corsair fan to get some real numbers happening , will never go back to silent fans they are useless on a rad .

I would love a pair of gt's just to see what all the hype is about , overvolt them blow them up and turn them into shrouds =D


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobehud;11927767*
> So anyone have any advise on some fans that can do 85% of what these can with less noise.have to keep small kittens away from the back of the computer as this damn thing will suck
> them right in...lol...ummm only kidding..a little....really.


The 2000 rpm Ultra Kaze are much quieter. I'd say about on par with the R4s and they are the next best and cheapest cooling solution at 38 mm. If you want quieter than that I prefer the Scythe S-Flex 1600 rpm fans over the Scythe GTs. The noise level is almost the same but I find they have a more pleasant softer lower pitch vs the higher whine of the GTs.


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cjc75;11925425*
> Is it worth upgrading an H50 to an H70?
> 
> Noting that the H50 is already in a Push/Pull with decent fans; would the H70 really give much more improvement? I am really, really interested in trying to push my Temps down even further to give myself some more Overclocking headroom...
> 
> My H50 at present, has a pair of R4's in push/pull, mounted on the rear of my case venting as rear exhaust (which I found to be working better then blowing as intake); and they also have a pair of 25mm shrouds sandwiched between each fan.
> 
> At present... its like this: <--airflow<--fan<--shroud<--case<--Rad<--shroud<--fan
> 
> So, if I took those Shrouds out, and put in an H70 with the R4's.
> 
> What I see any improvement?


I wouldn't upgrade if I were you. I did switch from an H50 to H70 (with the same fan configuration) and didn't see a huge improvement. Just save your money and wait for something better or go build a custom loop yourself.


----------



## Bobehud

well going to go to MicroCenter and see what they have on the shelf im not opposed to buying a few pair of fans and checking the noise VS performance.

i wont compromise too much on temps as this chip loves the cold.


----------



## lifeskills

hello can I join, got the h50 on my 1090T rig in push/pull exhaust with some CM R4's (90cfm)


Also just got the H70 for a christmas gift, and will be installing that tonight on my I7 rig once its done with a WU!!


----------



## deccher

hi all. i thank everyone for the wealth of knowledge. been a lurker for a while now.

had my h50 for about 1.5 months now, and couldn't be happier (well, i probably could w/ a newer system). like many, i have tried multiple intake/exhaust methods. ran single fan intake for about a month, then took a spare 120mm, and push/pulled intake...saw a marginal drop. recently, i got a wild hair, and added another 140mm near my drive bays (Sniper case). further playing around, i found i had enough cool air to start exhausting, dropping the temp 4C. this prompted me to pick up 2 x GT AP-14's.

ALL HAIL THE GT's!!!

how crazy is this fan?? slapped them in, on a PWM splitter, and dropped the load temp another 6C! they are QUIET too. crazy man, just crazy.

and just think, i still have lapping and picked up some MX-4 TIM.


----------



## kidaquarius

Nice rigs guys.
Looking good!

[sent from my android]


----------



## TheBigC

Why is the H50's block/socket thing so much thicker than the H70?


----------



## alancsalt

Because the H50 is the earlier model, and the H70 is meant to be the improvement?


----------



## briang191

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheBigC*


Why is the H50's block/socket thing so much thicker than the H70?










H50 is the first generation. Hence the bigger block. H70 2nd gen redesign low profile block. H60 3rd gen square block. Simply each version gets better and better.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briang191;11933393*
> H50 is the first generation. Hence the bigger block. H70 2nd gen redesign low profile block. H60 3rd gen square block. Simply each version gets better and better.


The H60 isn't 3rd gen it is a completely different manufacturer that is making it for Corsair so can't really compare them other than the are all closed loop setups.


----------



## hamster3null

Does anyone know if H50 is going to be compatible with the new Sandy Bridge 1155 socket out of the box, without having to buy some sort of custom bracket?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamster3null;11934632*
> Does anyone know if H50 is going to be compatible with the new Sandy Bridge 1155 socket out of the box, without having to buy some sort of custom bracket?


1155 is the same mounting as 1156, So it will work just fine


----------



## REZ325

I just mounted my H50. Does it matter which way the word "Corsair" reads on the heat sink block? Mine reads north / south because I did not want to twist the pipping that much. I see others have theirs east / west.

Is there a difference, Does it matter???


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *REZ325;11937792*
> I just mounted my H50. Does it matter which way the word "Corsair" reads on the heat sink block? Mine reads north / south because I did not want to twist the pipping that much. I see others have theirs east / west.
> 
> Is there a difference, Does it matter???


No difference whatsoever.


----------



## REZ325

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Capwn;11937821*
> No difference whatsoever.


TY, I was just wondering, only because of I thought it was a little noisy. Do you know the operating sound db's during min. & max. loads? I can't hear the fan, But I think I hear the water pump. Are they louder?

Thanks again!


----------



## Capwn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *REZ325;11937887*
> TY, I was just wondering, only because of I thought it was a little noisy. Do you know the operating sound db's during min. & max. loads? I can't hear the fan, But I think I hear the water pump. Are they louder?
> 
> Thanks again!


Ive heard several people say this,, Ive never heard the pump running. Ive heard the water a few times tho..
The fan IMO is the loudest part, The face of the fan against the radiator makes a slight whistle or something..


----------



## DJ4g63t

You guys do realize that when you add a washer to the mounting bolts its going to crush the bottom of those plastic pieces that the bolts go through into the mobo. Trust me I know







I actually took those plastic pieces off and ground them down so when I tighten the bolts down they have more room to tighten down before they bottom out and hit the mobo. The mounting ring is such weak metal it just bends under pressure so your not exactly exerting all that much more pressure to the pump. I wish it came with a more ridged mounting ring but I'm sure if it did someone would over tighten it and crack the plastic pump.

Edit: You can't tighten the bolts too tight when you use the garbage plastic backplate that comes with it either. You will end up spinning the threaded piece right in the plastic backplate. Ask me how I know







lol


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


You guys do realize that when you add a washer to the mounting bolts its going to crush the bottom of those plastic pieces that the bolts go through into the mobo. Trust me I know







I actually took those plastic pieces off and ground them down so when I tighten the bolts down they have more room to tighten down before they bottom out and hit the mobo. The mounting ring is such weak metal it just bends under pressure so your not exactly exerting all that much more pressure to the pump. I wish it came with a more ridged mounting ring but I'm sure if it did someone would over tighten it and crack the plastic pump.

Edit: You can't tighten the bolts too tight when you use the garbage plastic backplate that comes with it either. You will end up spinning the threaded piece right in the plastic backplate. Ask me how I know







lol


your right about that , once u thread it the screws dont stop spinning anymore .. My backplate and bracket have had it , but its doing its job for now but taking it off a few more times ill be worried .


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


your right about that , once u thread it the screws dont stop spinning anymore .. My backplate and bracket have had it , but its doing its job for now but taking it off a few more times ill be worried .


I buy some nice all metal backplates off ebay for like $5 shipped. They are good quality and fit perfect. When I got a minute I'll post a link if anybody's interested.


----------



## kidaquarius

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


I buy some nice all metal backplates off ebay for like $5 shipped. They are good quality and fit perfect. When I got a minute I'll post a link if anybody's interested.


Yes. Interested party here.

[sent from my android]


----------



## rainmaker

Hello guys, still experementing with my h70. Is it possible that Im hearing clicking/ticking noise coming from it? And how can I fix it? Thanks


----------



## Xristo

shuldnt be ticking nor clicking , no reason too . Only noise u shuld hear is a gurgling sound once u reinstall the pump other than its silent .


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidaquarius;11943259*
> Yes. Interested party here.
> 
> [sent from my android]


This is the guy here

Metal 775 backplate

He ships super fast and its a quality all metal backplate.








I've bought quite a few from him and can vouch for the quality.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t;11944413*
> This is the guy here
> 
> Metal 775 backplate
> 
> He ships super fast and its a quality all metal backplate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've bought quite a few from him and can vouch for the quality.


makes me glad my board came with a proper metal backplate with no limit on how far the screws can go in. Also I made sure I wasnt crushing the plastic grommet.


----------



## ArcticZero

Question. I'm planning on doing the following this weekend:

1. Switching from using the stock plastic H50 backplate to my old TRUE's metal LGA775 backplate. Would using the tighter-spaced LGA775 holes make a difference when it comes to pressure on the CPU for a tighter mount?

2. Lapping my H50. I've come to the conclusion that my H50 isn't flat at all, based on how fast my temps rise, and how my TIM spreads so unevenly despite using proper mounting techniques. I'll check with a metal ruler first to be sure. I mean, it doesn't void my warranty anyway, so what's to lose, right?

Thoughts guys?


----------



## alancsalt

If you are running a socket 1366 cpu I'd think you'd need a 1366 backplate. 775 backplate wouldn't match mobo holes. Need something like: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/hk1366plate.html

No, nothing to lose by lapping done properly.


----------



## ArcticZero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;11947147*
> If you are running a socket 1366 cpu I'd think you'd need a 1366 backplate. 775 backplate wouldn't match mobo holes. Need something like: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/hk1366plate.html
> 
> No, nothing to lose by lapping done properly.


R3E has both sets of mounting holes, so I get to pick.


----------



## alancsalt

Then you can. That's pretty cool of Asus to do that.


----------



## DSG

Added myself, and would like to note that if anybody thought they might have clearance issues using an H70 on the EVGA P55 Classified, no problems at all! As for the X58 Classified boards... probably going to have clearance problems based on what I'm seeing with my setup.


----------



## ArcticZero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;11947359*
> Then you can. That's pretty cool of Asus to do that.


Theoretically, would it help my temps though to use the closer mounting holes?


----------



## alancsalt

I hadn't thought about closer mounting holes helping. I thought a more rigid backplate could help though - more even pressure.

For all the mods ppls have done I haven't seen anyone do a custom mount yet - a solid backplate and a solid top clamp ring could be a good thing? The Corsair mount is a bit under-built....


----------



## ArcticZero

True. Honestly I'm beginning to think I bent my mounting ring ever so slightly, which is causing my bad temps.


----------



## rick19011

Is 70C load temps in prime 95 after 1hour about right with I5 750 quad core processor?
Room temp is around 22C and I have 2 scythe gentle typhoon fans coming which should help lower the temps.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;11948039*
> For all the mods ppls have done I haven't seen anyone do a custom mount yet - a solid backplate and a solid top clamp ring could be a good thing? The Corsair mount is a bit under-built....


I have access to a full blown machine shop and I've tossed around the idea myself of making a more solid/rigid top mounting ring for my H50 but I was worried I'd tighten it too much and crack the plastic pump or put too much stress on the mobo. My temps are great so I didn't need to get that creative lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArcticZero;11948815*
> True. Honestly I'm beginning to think I bent my mounting ring ever so slightly, which is causing my bad temps.


I know for a fact my mounting ring is bent. I tightened mine down so tight I can see the flimsy metal ring bend. To be honest I haven't seen much of a difference in temps by cranking it down super tight probly cause its just bending the ring and not really pushing down on the pump anymore at that point.


----------



## IceAero

I just want to report that my stock 2600k w/ H70 is idling at 16oC

but it's really cold in here


----------



## XtachiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rick19011;11948932*
> Is 70C load temps in prime 95 after 1hour about right with I5 750 quad core processor?
> Room temp is around 22C and I have 2 scythe gentle typhoon fans coming which should help lower the temps.


i think your vcore is a little too high
i'm at 1.512v for vcore and i hit about 75c only


----------



## clubfoot

The 775 back plate is .88c here?! Not sure what shipping is though.

http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=8_128&item_id=031246


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *clubfoot*


The 775 back plate is .88c here?! Not sure what shipping is though.

http://www.canadacomputers.com/produ...item_id=031246


Its available in stores only. Is that one metal thought? Even if its not it looks like its def better than the flimsy plastic H50 backplate.

On a side note
I'm not very happy with my GPU temps since I've turned around my H50 and made it an intake. The GPU now runs 5-7C hotter while gaming. Even still my GPU temps are by no means in the danger zone now (60C max load). I just ordered 4 Yate Loon high speed fans from Petra's. I plan on replacing the CM R4 on my GPU cooler with one of the Yates and hopefully that will shave off a few degrees. I'm also going to put one of the Yates in the top fan spot to try and exhaust more of the hot air that the H50 is now dumping into the case. If those don't help I'm going back to exhausting the H50 and throw the other 2 Yate's on the H50 and call it a day. I'm hoping the Yate high speed fans will outperform the CM R4's. They flow 19cfm's more than the R4's and have the same static pressure so I can't see why they shouldn't.


----------



## IceAero

2600k @ 4.4GHz @ 1.3v:

Load temps: 57,62,63,61

Is that good? Is that temperature 'spread' normal?


----------



## briang191

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IceAero;11953208*
> 2600k @ 4.4GHz @ 1.3v:
> 
> Load temps: 57,62,63,61
> 
> Is that good? Is that temperature 'spread' normal?


I'd say it's really good spread seems good


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IceAero;11953208*
> 2600k @ 4.4GHz @ 1.3v:
> 
> Load temps: 57,62,63,61
> 
> Is that good? Is that temperature 'spread' normal?


Nice , runs alot cooler than my 870 because its 32nm . Was considering an upgrade to sandy bridge but after reading reviews its nothing much over the 870 but i do love the way they clock and your temps are lookin really good im impressed . Whats the tj max of these chips ?

i7 2600 is $348 and the i7 870 is $339 , wonder why they are the same price roughly .


----------



## cmeeks

For those of you looking for a sturdy metal backplate for your new Sandy Bridge system, I can confirm the Xigmatek Crossbow (ACK-I5361) works perfectly on my P67A-UD5 without interfering with any of the circuitry or other stuff on the back. I imagine it's the same for all the Gigabyte boards, if not all the Sandy Bridge boards...

This thing is legit - I can't bend this sucker with my hands even if I try.


----------



## [email protected]

That bracket looks extremely nice replacement instead of the plastic backplate we use for our water cooler.

Man i wanna get a sandy bridge but i might just wait cuz having 4.4ghz overclocks and higher just screams for incredible fps performance lol.


----------



## ArcticZero

I just might pick one of those up if my TRUE LGA775 backplate doesn't cut it.

EDIT: Just started lapping my H50. Checking it with a metal ruler showed it was concave. (light was shining through the center)


















Starting on 800 grit IMMEDIATELY proved this, as the edges began to whittle down. I'll keep you guys posted.


----------



## misrasandeep

Hi,
I have a core i7 950 mounted on Asus Sabertoorh MB, with stock heat sink but CPU temperatures were reaching 100 on max load, 50-60 on idle. So I purchased the H50 for better temps. Now when I am trying to uninstall the heat sink I am stuck , since I am not able to pull out one of the legs of heat sink, even though its in unlock state. Any ideas ,if any one of you faced similar issues while removeing stock heat sink. I am afraid to break the MoBo, if I apply too much pressure to pull it out.


----------



## XtachiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misrasandeep;11958707*
> Hi,
> I have a core i7 950 mounted on Asus Sabertoorh MB, with stock heat sink but CPU temperatures were reaching 100 on max load, 50-60 on idle. So I purchased the H50 for better temps. Now when I am trying to uninstall the heat sink I am stuck , since I am not able to pull out one of the legs of heat sink, even though its in unlock state. Any ideas ,if any one of you faced similar issues while removeing stock heat sink. I am afraid to break the MoBo, if I apply too much pressure to pull it out.


ohhhh crap... that has happened to me before, but eventually i got it unstuck =/
took a long time but i did it. put it in the unlock state, and hold the piece (the thing the locker is in) down as you pull the unlocker up to avoid breaking the motherboard or chip it.

edit: intel coolers are absolutely ******ed =/
they provide good processors but not sufficient enough coolers to accompany the processor which is pretty lame from intel provided that we are actually paying money for the processor


----------



## demis0204

That's mine with three fans:


----------



## tat2monsta

ADD me plaese

its monday.
that means its upgrade day.
Corsair H70 and a GTX 580
idle before the H70 was about 42 now its 32ish 
while playing BC2 i was getting 65+ but after an hour i was at 46c and thats with everything cranked right up now i have a new card.
i used to have a super DIY setup but when i went to 1366 from 775 i couldnt be bothered with sourcing new parts and cleaning/building a new loop.
this corsair is great for what i want. took less than an hour to install. stress free. very happy so far

please note temps are basic idea as ive only just installed the unit. will update in a week when its burnt in some more


----------



## clubfoot

You have to add yourself







Nice temps!


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


Its available in stores only. Is that one metal thought? Even if its not it looks like its def better than the flimsy plastic H50 backplate.

On a side note
I'm not very happy with my GPU temps since I've turned around my H50 and made it an intake. The GPU now runs 5-7C hotter while gaming. Even still my GPU temps are by no means in the danger zone now (60C max load). I just ordered 4 Yate Loon high speed fans from Petra's. I plan on replacing the CM R4 on my GPU cooler with one of the Yates and hopefully that will shave off a few degrees. I'm also going to put one of the Yates in the top fan spot to try and exhaust more of the hot air that the H50 is now dumping into the case. If those don't help I'm going back to exhausting the H50 and throw the other 2 Yate's on the H50 and call it a day. I'm hoping the Yate high speed fans will outperform the CM R4's. They flow 19cfm's more than the R4's and have the same static pressure so I can't see why they shouldn't.


Yes, it's metal and has the insulator square. Didn't see what case you have but I run a 120mm intake fan on the side panel and it keeps everything cool.


----------



## skwannabe

right now I have my h50 on my AMD rig. But I bought a new 1155 rig. I don't have the 1156 [E] part from the quick guide manual. Are the AMD [E] and 1156 [E] the same? Also what should I do about the double sided tape they provided to hold the back plate onto the motherboard? Should I try to find another one or try to re use the existing one?

Ok have examining the manual again, the [E] unit is different from amd and intel. So now I went to corsair's website to try to order some more brackets but the link the provided to order it, doesn't work.

Anyone know where to order these brackets?


----------



## tat2monsta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *clubfoot*


You have to add yourself







Nice temps!


I added myself.. cheers for pointing it out


----------



## Brian983

hi i recently got a corsair h50 and i'm having trouble overclocking my 920 on full load it goes over 90 c. i have read that some people have it at 4 ghz at at full load its in the goc range . my case is a lancool k62 dragonlord and my room temp is 64 f can someone please tell me what i'm doing wrong. thank you


----------



## IceAero

Quick temperature question...

I've got idle of 28 across the board, but after a 1 hour stress test I've got the following maximums:

64/71/71/71

Is this a sign that I need to reseat/tighten ?

EDIT: I did a little tightening (they still don't seem That tight too me, but i'm being careful) gave me:

63/68/68/67


----------



## derfer

I added myself and updated the R4 fan spec.


----------



## Flynny

I'm in!









Q9300 OCed to 3Ghz. H70 fits in an NZXT Lexa S!

41 Idle

50 Load

(Pictures are before I actually plugged the fans in







)


----------



## briang191

Add me please h70


----------



## ArcticZero

So I lapped my H50 last night. Here's some pics of the process:

From the moment I checked the base with a metal ruler and began lapping, it was pretty obvious the base was pretty concave. If I would stick the CPU to the base manually, the suction was pretty good. However once mounted on the mobo, it's like they barely stuck to each other at all.

This is after a few rotations at 800 grit. The X hasn't faded at all in the center.









After 800 grit









After 1200 grit









After 1500 grit

















If I had some 2000 grit paper handy, then I could've gotten a better finish. But it's flat as can be now, which is what matters anyway.

















Check how the TIM was spreading before I lapped it.









Just some pics of the mess


























I also switched to using the LGA775 mounting holes as an experiment to see whether it would give me better pressure than the LGA1366 holes.

And now for temps!

Before: *52-56c idle, 80-85c load*
Now: *44-50c idle, 74-77c load*

If those seem high to you, it's because my ambients never go below 30c where I live. But that's good enough for me considering where I was before.


----------



## kidaquarius

Good work, zero.









[sent from my android]


----------



## rafarataneneces

HEy guys
I have Sandy Bridge, temperatures at 4.0Ghz are around 65C, VERY impressive, maybe they will reach 70C

First generation reached 85C-87C


----------



## blixx666

Hi everyone. I got the h50, and have gotten good temps at stock clock for i7 860, 20c idle and 45c @100% load prime95. Using arctic silver 5. Running stock fan and pump at full speed, connected straight to the power supply. I was wondering if my temps will get significantly lower if i choose to do a push/pull configuration with gentle typhoons 1850 rpm model at full speed? 5-10 degrees? i saw that there are higher rpm models now but i don't want very loud fans at full speed. thanks


----------



## alancsalt

Results may well differ depending on all the variables between installations, but welcome, and congratulations on yr first post....and we hope to hear back what your results are...


----------



## IceAero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArcticZero;11966766*
> So I lapped my H50 last night. Here's some pics of the process:
> 
> . . .
> 
> And now for temps!
> 
> Before: *52-56c idle, 80-85c load*
> Now: *44-50c idle, 74-77c load*
> 
> If those seem high to you, it's because my ambients never go below 30c where I live. But that's good enough for me considering where I was before.


WOW, that's impressive!


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArcticZero;11966766*
> So I lapped my H50 last night. Here's some pics of the process:
> 
> From the moment I checked the base with a metal ruler and began lapping, it was pretty obvious the base was pretty concave. If I would stick the CPU to the base manually, the suction was pretty good. However once mounted on the mobo, it's like they barely stuck to each other at all.
> 
> I also switched to using the LGA775 mounting holes as an experiment to see whether it would give me better pressure than the LGA1366 holes.
> 
> And now for temps!
> 
> Before: *52-56c idle, 80-85c load*
> Now: *44-50c idle, 74-77c load*
> 
> If those seem high to you, it's because my ambients never go below 30c where I live. But that's good enough for me considering where I was before.


This is using the True backplate?


----------



## ArcticZero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;11969392*
> This is using the True backplate?


I'm afraid using the LGA775 TRUE backplate just won't work for LGA1366, since the retention bracket's own backplate conflicts with it.










Still on the stock H50 plastic piece of crap, until I get myself one of those Crossbows.


----------



## [email protected]

I haven't tried this but try this one..

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233038

Impressive lapping. Makes me wanna lap my old H50 and test it on another pc but i need to order a Mini Pc Boot speaker. Some ram too. I do have another processor but it's a E2180 and a duo. I bet i can overclock it like a champ since they are champions at overclocking lol. Old processor though.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArcticZero;11966766*
> Before: *52-56c idle, 80-85c load*
> Now: *44-50c idle, 74-77c load*
> 
> If those seem high to you, it's because my ambients never go below 30c where I live. But that's good enough for me considering where I was before.


Is that at 4Ghz ? temps seem ok . At 4.3Ghz / 1.408v i idle in the mid 30's and load low 70's ... With the standard plastic backplate ..i would love to try one of the metal ones n see what happens .


----------



## DOOOLY

Are the Scythe S-FLEX S-FDB 1900rpms good for the h50 i hear there loud and have 75cfm ?


----------



## jinkazuya

well...This is the fan I get: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185058

I do not know how people could get another similar corsair fan 120mm of the H50...But as for now, the manufacture only supplies one fan, which kinda sucks consider people have to do the push and pull set up.

Anyway, I am not sure if I set up the push and pull correctly...So ask for advice here and hope I could get some help from some of you experts cooling guys

The fan, which I provided the link for above, is the one I use for the pull set up. _The side without the supporting pillar faces the vent(with a lot of holes) of the case, and the side with supporting pillar is attached to the radiator_, *is it the correct set up for the h50 to pull the air in from the vent of the back of the case?*, the original 120mm corsair fan is used to extract the hot air from the radiator. The setup is that the side with no supporting pillar is attached to the radiator for getting air out of the radiator, and the side with supporting pillar faces the ram sticks.

However, the temp is so freaking high, load is about 80 - 85C, idle temp is 40 - 45C with vcore set to 1.33 or 1.35 and bclock set to 170 and everything is set to auto and untouched. I am just wondering if that is the common issue among all of you guys? Because I would like to drop the temp a bit. In addition, I only test the system with 50% load...Not really sure how I could get my overclock stable.


----------



## Kasaris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DOOOLY;11978884*
> Are the Scythe S-FLEX S-FDB 1900rpms good for the h50 i hear there loud and have 75cfm ?


I had a pair of these in Push/Pull on my H70 and they were a tad loud for my taste. I did put a 38mm shroud on the push side and that reduced the noise to a tolerable level.

I ended up picking up some Gentle Typhoon AP-15's when Newegg got them in stock and switched out to them and they are pretty much silent and still move a good amount of air.

Martinm210 has a thread here on overclock.net testing a ton of fans you might want to check out.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/859483-round-6-fan-testing-working-thread.html


----------



## ckybam3

See as more ppl lap It goes to show that you can get a very big temp drop without even lapping the cpu. Many of these just arent flat at all


----------



## Kitarist

Guys how loud are the stock fans on H70?

Also which fans would be great for the H70 and are also quieter than the stock ones?

Thanks!!!


----------



## Magus2727

Stock fans can be loud... it is relative to the individual person. A few pages back...

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/612436-official-corsair-h50-h70-club-792.html#post11888429

Has information on the fans and the noise. Look for fans with a lower dBa o then them if you want quieter. remember CFM is a secondary number when adding it to a radiator you also need to make sure the static pressure is good (search Corsairs site for that info, its some what cumbersome to find but the search on their site works well)

a lot of people like the AP-15's.... It all depends what you want to spend... some people think $10 a fan is to much, there are some good ones for $15.. $18... $20. but do you want to drop that after already getting a $60 cooler?


----------



## alancsalt

Stock fans:

H50_
The kit also comes with a single 7-blade 120x120x25mm cooling fan that runs at 1700RPM. After contacting the engineers at Corsair we were informed that the fan was sourced from well known cooling fan manufacturer Akasa. The model AK174CB-4BLB cooling fan has a 50,000 hour life span and a twin ball bearing design. This fan consumes 2.2W when running at 1700RPM and has a noise level of 29.75 dB(A). The max airflow is 59.05CFM with a static pressure of 3.57mm H20.

H70_
Corsair rates the fans at 50.35-61.2 CFM, 1600-2000rpm, 1.8-2.3mm H20 static pressure (each) and 26-31.5dBA of noise per fan. Each fan has a 3-pin connector and Corsair supply a cable to power these off a single 3-pin motherboard connector.


----------



## briang191

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kitarist;11981368*
> Guys how loud are the stock fans on H70?
> 
> Also which fans would be great for the H70 and are also quieter than the stock ones?
> 
> Thanks!!!


IMO the stock fans are not loud


----------



## boswell3782

Do Corsair make a H50-H70 with blue leds?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boswell3782;11986886*
> Do Corsair make a H50-H70 with blue leds?


----------



## Yokes29

Hey everyone. I have 2 rigs both equipped with H70's. I replaced my S-Flex-G's with AP-14's AP-15's. Thought i share the results on my second rig, cause i'm impressed! Plus, the noise level in my cases have gone down.
i7 [email protected] (1.30 VCORE)
S-Flex-G's:
LOAD" 66, 66, 66, 64, 67, 66
AP-14's"
LOAD: 59, 58, 58, 57, 59, 57

I also replaced the famous Shin-Etsu stock TIM with MX-3.
Edit: using Prime95 from stress testing and HWmonitor to check temps.
Edit again: Opps i mean AP-15's doh!


----------



## [email protected]

Wow you really that stable? Man i'm tempted to see how far my i5 760 can go. I only done a baby clock and never looked back since. I'm running a mild clock. Check sig.

How far you guys think this puppy can be clock stable at stock volts?


----------



## Xristo

So uptop of my antec case i took the materiel out from behind the mesh , the vacuum from the corsair fan is crazy !


----------



## iTravis

I'm thinking of getting 2 Gentle Typhoon for my H50 for push/pull config, is it still the best fan to pair with?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iTravis;11992679*
> I'm thinking of getting 2 Gentle Typhoon for my H50 for push/pull config, is it still the best fan to pair with?


If your talking about the AP-15 fans for noise vs cooling yes I would say they are one of the best if not the best.

They do make 5400rpm "GentleTyphoon" fans so it all depends how far you want to go.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12365/fan-811/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_5400_RPM_D1225C12BBAP-31.html


----------



## richardbb85

will the h70 work with the new lga 1155 board? i am starting a new SB i7 build


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;11990329*
> So uptop of my antec case i took the materiel out from behind the mesh , the vacuum from the corsair fan is crazy !


I like how you set the razer sticker on the tower instead of the window. By the way dude.. why why do you set cold cathodes lined up like that? Hide it man. Put it on a wall of the side panel or against the hard drive cages. More cleaner version instead of seeing some big stick sitting in the view of the window. Welcome to the club however!

I will post new pics this week so you cold cathode users can get the idea.


----------



## iTravis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carfanatic;11992851*
> If your talking about the AP-15 fans for noise vs cooling yes I would say they are one of the best if not the best.
> 
> They do make 5400rpm "GentleTyphoon" fans so it all depends how far you want to go.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12365/fan-811/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_5400_RPM_D1225C12BBAP-31.html


Yeh I'm talking about the AP-15, noise is my concern but at the same time I want one with good performance as well, look like I'll be ordering soon. Don't think I can live with the 50dBA version.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richardbb85;11992899*
> will the h70 work with the new lga 1155 board? i am starting a new SB i7 build


It will, you can just use the LGA 1156 kit.


----------



## S_V(TM)

My H70 in 800D,...


----------



## Brian983

Ijust rencently got the corsair h5o but when i overclock to 4ghz on my 920 and i run prime 95 my temps go in the mid 90c is it better to have it setup as an intake opposed to an exhaust any advice would be great thanks.


----------



## Pyro_Teknic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Brian983*


Ijust rencently got the corsair h5o but when i overclock to 4ghz on my 920 and i run prime 95 my temps go in the mid 90c is it better to have it setup as an intake opposed to an exhaust any advice would be great thanks.


just changed the push fan from stock to ap-14 and lowered temps 10c! stock fan pulling but still can feel a huge diff in the air movement. highest load is now 61 on my h50


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian983;12000544*
> Ijust rencently got the corsair h5o but when i overclock to 4ghz on my 920 and i run prime 95 my temps go in the mid 90c is it better to have it setup as an intake opposed to an exhaust any advice would be great thanks.


Sounds like you need to remount your h50. Mid 90's seems to high. Did you use the stock tim?


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pyro_Teknic*


just changed the push fan from stock to ap-14 and lowered temps 10c! stock fan pulling but still can feel a huge diff in the air movement. highest load is now 61 on my h50


you dropped 10c from changing the push fan ?







iv changed the push fan many times ... From 1300rpm now to 3000rpm and my temps are only 2-5c better . 10c is a massive improvement , nice . Even though 920's dont run hot at default spec you should see under 60c , my 870 on defaults loads mid 50's .


----------



## Brian983

i used the paste that came with it on idle its 37c but oc to 4ghz full load is when it go to the mid 90s and i don't leave it on for long bc i'm affraid it will go to high


----------



## Brian983

is 4ghz overclock on the 920 unreasonable using the corsair h50 i have 3 140mm fans and a 120mm fan i have the k62 dragonlord if that helps also thanks for responding lasttime i posted no one did.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Brian983*


is 4ghz overclock on the 920 unreasonable using the corsair h50 i have 3 140mm fans and a 120mm fan i have the k62 dragonlord if that helps also thanks for responding lasttime i posted no one did.


No I think some better paste and a remount should help. I know alot of people have had to remount 3 or 4 times to get it right. It took me 3 times to get the best temps


----------



## franckimp

hey I wanna be in the club







P5Q Pro Turbo with Q600 RevB3 OC at 3.2 with H70


----------



## Brian983

so artic silver 5 what temps should i expect a 4ghz full load


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Brian983*


so artic silver 5 what temps should i expect a 4ghz full load


If you mounted it properly the first time then you should see no change and possibly even higher temps until after 200 hours of run time for AS5 to cure. Though with your temps I would guess it is not mounted right. Without knowing things like your Vcore and ambient temps and all the other settings it is impossible to tell you what to expect. If you have an ambient of 37C compared to most that have around 22c there is going to be a huge difference in temps.


----------



## alancsalt

Depends on ambient temp, but for i7-920 (DO stepping) maybe 70 to 75? Anyone do better?

as5 has a cure time - takes a couple of days before its at its best. Nothing wrong with stock shin-etsu tim except maybe too much of it. More in the mounting. Make sure all indents and dents match on the mounting ring, and then do up evenly a bit at a time in criss cross pattern. (not one at a time) Also not all H50 are flat - google for "lapping" and maybe try that as well. There's a vid on youtube showing what to do. You can test for flatness by passing steel ruler over base and looking for light between ruler and surface. If there is light it's not flat.


----------



## Brian983

if i gave you that info could you help me i just want to get the most out of my h50 my room temp is about 64f


----------



## Yanki

So, I have seen many reviews, but I would like you guys' opinion.. Is the switch from my Megashadow push/pull to the H70 worth the money and the temp change?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yanki*


So, I have seen many reviews, but I would like you guys' opinion.. Is the switch from my Megashadow push/pull to the H70 worth the money and the temp change?


Ummm no. that would be a really bad idea. the mega is suppose to perform on par with the h50 and h70.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


Ummm no. that would be a really bad idea. the mega is suppose to perform on par with the h50 and h70.


How is that a really bad idea ? h70 would put it all over the megashadow .. you like have 1+kg hanging off your mobo ? im an h50 owner and let me just say i wouldnt swap my h50 for 2 megashadows . Max oc on my cpu and i still dont hit 75c in prime 95 small ftt's ..

h70 all the way mate .

corsair H series respond extremely well to lapping , as5 and higher static pressure fans . Once you have all that done you wont even look at the megashadow again .


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


How is that a really bad idea ? h70 would put it all over the megashadow .. you like have 1+kg hanging off your mobo ? im an h50 owner and let me just say i wouldnt swap my h50 for 2 megashadows . Max oc on my cpu and i still dont hit 75c in prime 95 small ftt's ..

h70 all the way mate .

corsair H series respond extremely well to lapping , as5 and higher static pressure fans . Once you have all that done you wont even look at the megashadow again .


looks at sig.

laughs about corsair calling the h70 high performance.

the h70 is about 5 -8c cooler then the mega only with high performance fans. meaning that it is only better when the fans are either expensive, or loud.

I get 43c max load with my setup.

so in turn spending 60 dollars plus cost of fan on a mega then spending 90 or so dollars on an h70, you could have bought a Rasa 750 RS360 kit to start with.


----------



## Brian983

i mounted it as show on the net like you said a few turns at a time my chip has do stepping and the only thing i changed to overclock to 4ghz is the blk.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


looks at sig.

laughs about corsair calling the h70 high performance.

the h70 is about 5 -8c cooler then the mega only with high performance fans. meaning that it is only better when the fans are either expensive, or loud.

I get 43c max load with my setup.

so in turn spending 60 dollars plus cost of fan on a mega then spending 90 or so dollars on an h70, you could have bought a Rasa 750 RS360 kit to start with.


We know its not as good as a full blown watercooling system , obviously .. I would still personally pick the hydro cooler over the old school heatsink style megashadow for lots of reasons and i think with a few mods it wil out do it easily .. but its all personal preference i guess , my cpu never idles over 42c at 4.3Ghz and i could be literally dripping sweat from my armpits in 30c heat yet it wont budge over 42c idle .. Imo thats very good , cant see a megashadow doing this .


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yanki*


So, I have seen many reviews, but I would like you guys' opinion.. Is the switch from my Megashadow push/pull to the H70 worth the money and the temp change?


*Updated*The Official Megahalem vs H50 Battle Royale Results

Mega Shadow is "improved" megahalems and remember 
Quote:



2x Ultra Kaze 3k @ 100% Push/Pull used on mega and H50


 in that test.

If you want to spend money to get better temps I think it would be a sideways move going from a Mega Shadow to a H70. The Rasa kits are a better use of the money if better temps are the point of changing.


----------



## Garanthor

Well guys this will likely be my last post on this forum. As stated earlier finally made the switch to a full water cooling loop from my beloved H50 and holy crap!!! I got the XSPC 750 RX360 for $199 plus added some better tubing and compression fitting, fired it all up and did a temp comparison. Before temp at 20C ambient was 29 idle and 54 max load with 1.5 volts to the CPU at 4.020 Ghz. With everything exactly the same the temps are now 27 idle and 43 max load (1 hr prime 95)








Wow I am impressed and totally happy. Here are some pics.


----------



## alancsalt

Nice result, and a damn site cheaper than my custom water for the same result. I've still got the H50 on an e7400 PC tho'. Guess you'll be off to the OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


Nice result, and a damn site cheaper than my custom water for the same result. I've still got the H50 on an e7400 PC tho'. Guess you'll be off to the OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery










Thanks, yes I'm off. I still have the H50, and may use it on my other computer. By the way I forgot to mention that this pump/res combo is just awesome. Can't hear it over my quiet case fans. Worth every penny.







Now time to up my overclocks!!


----------



## DJ4g63t

My 4 Petra's Yate Loon high speed fans just came in today







I'm probly going to sleeve them tonight and install them tomorrow. I'm going to do some cpu and gpu stress tests with the R4's first so I can see if the Yates make a difference. I'll post up my results


----------



## sergio112

i have a problem fitting my H50 in my  MC Elite 300 It fits in my case but it wont fit the holes wont line up because the PSU in in the way and the PCI cards latch is also in the way any suggestions?


----------



## Yanki

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


*Updated*The Official Megahalem vs H50 Battle Royale Results

Mega Shadow is "improved" megahalems and remember in that test.

If you want to spend money to get better temps I think it would be a sideways move going from a Mega Shadow to a H70. The Rasa kits are a better use of the money if better temps are the point of changing.


Thanks everyone for the input.
4GHz @1.3v BIOS HT on idling at 48c @lancool k62, with a couple of Silverstone AP121s.. I think I'll just save up for a custom water loop instead of going corsair.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sergio112*


i have a problem fitting my H50 in my  MC Elite 300 It fits in my case but it wont fit the holes wont line up because the PSU in in the way and the PCI cards latch is also in the way any suggestions?


Front as intake either where a fan is already made to go at the bottom or make or buy a "fan cage" made to go in the 5 1/4 bay to hold it.


----------



## TheSpartan

Just a few questions :

1- I've got a 2600K with this H50, wondering if i need to apply AS5 Paste on my CPU if both (H50 , 2600K) are brand new. Can i just put the H50 on the CPU with the stock Paste ?

2- What setup is better, PULL the air out of the case or PUSH fresh air in the case ?

Thanks


----------



## alancsalt

The stock paste is Shin-Etsu, very good paste, but there is too much of it.

Whether you go intake or exhaust is the never-ending question. Just whichever way you go have other case fans to help (a:intake) to remove the air coming in warmed by radiator OR (b:exhaust) help hurrying the air out warmed by components like mobo so air for rad barely warmer. You are talking 1 or 2 degrees difference.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheSpartan*


Just a few questions :

1- I've got a 2600K with this H50, wondering if i need to apply AS5 Paste on my CPU if both (H50 , 2600K) are brand new. Can i just put the H50 on the CPU with the stock Paste ?

2- What setup is better, PULL the air out of the case or PUSH fresh air in the case ?

Thanks


If you setup your h50 properly and apply some good thermal paste i can see you doing 5Ghz with a h50 on a 2600k . The pad that comes with the block isnt that great imo , everyone keeps saying its the best :s to me it is dreadful and it should be wiped off immediatly followed by a light lapping job .. Make sure your pump is tight with your cpu also ..it could take some time playing around to find yourself a sweet spot ur happy with .


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yanki*


Thanks everyone for the input.
4GHz @1.3v BIOS HT on idling at 48c @lancool k62, with a couple of Silverstone AP121s.. I think I'll just save up for a custom water loop instead of going corsair.










4.3ghz -1.4v idle at 36c , thats 12c off megashadow with a higher overclock .. H50 is good , believe it . If your not going higher than 4.2ghz i wouldnt bother going custom loop .. H50 is more than capable if you know what your doing .


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


The pad that comes with the block isnt that great imo , everyone keeps saying its the best :s to me it is dreadful


If used properly(which your right there is too much to be used properly to begin with) it is the best. It is easy to work with put on a rubber glove "ball up" all of the stock TIM and split it in half then re-apply you will get the same or better temps than any other TIM on the market today as long as you mount properly.

If the proper amount was applied to begin with then there wouldn't be as many problems with it but if you plan ahead since everyone knows there is too much then you not only get the best TIM you can buy but you have enough you can use it for another CPU/GPU.


----------



## Garanthor

I wasn't going to post again but I just had to report this. I got more air bubbles out of my system and ran prime 95 again for another hour. Just to reiterate the before temps with my H50 puch/pull with shrouds, front intake and 38mm 2,000 rpm fans was 29 idle and 54-55 C max temp at 20 C ambient. So what is the new temps now? HAHAHAHAHAHAHAH.........24 C idle and 41 C max temp!!!!







Here is the proof: I just love this system. Best $199 I ever spent!! That's all for me guys good luck with your H50 and H70s


----------



## clubfoot

How frequently does one have to service a full water loop?


----------



## XtachiX

once or twice a year provided that you only use distilled water with pt nuke or something like that XD


----------



## REZ325

Question? *(please link if already answered  )*

On initial start up in the morning, when everything is cold, I get the CPU fan error, "press F1" to continue. This is occurring (I believe) cause my CPU has not generated enough heat to cause the fan to spin faster then 600RPM, thus making the error message. After total boot up, my CPU fan speed indicator on my desktop showing fan speed will run "RED" (550RPM Range) until everything warms up causing the fan speed to increase to over 600RPM's.
I know I can disable some setting in the BIOS and that will clear the message, I don't want to do this because then the fan runs full blast, which I feel is unnecessary when my system is just idling.

Is there any way of setting the default speed below "600" to stop this error message? Or is this just typically what happens after you buy and aftermarket cooler? Nothing is wrong with any of my equipment, I just get annoyed by the warning message

Thanks


----------



## XtachiX

put the socket somewhere other than cpu fan
put it in opt fan1 or casefan1 or psufan or something else other than cpu since it is the delicate one?
what exactly do you have hooked up to the cpufan header?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XtachiX*


put the socket somewhere other than cpu fan
put it in opt fan1 or casefan1 or psufan or something else other than cpu since it is the delicate one?
what exactly do you have hooked up to the cpufan header?


The pump should be hooked to a fan header that is always fully on. and the rad fan should be hooked to the CPU fan header.


----------



## XtachiX

pump should be hooked up to a 3pin connector or you could use a socket to connect it directly to the power supply
the fan could be connected anywhere really


----------



## REZ325

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XtachiX*


put the socket somewhere other than cpu fan
put it in opt fan1 or casefan1 or psufan or something else other than cpu since it is the delicate one?
what exactly do you have hooked up to the cpufan header?


The fan on the radiator is 4 pin, the instructions said to plug it into the CPU socket. I have the pump on Cha_Fan 2. I have no other 4 pin connectors on my mobo unless I rig something up. 
So I take it there is no way to change it to a lower setting?


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XtachiX*


once or twice a year provided that you only use distilled water with pt nuke or something like that XD


I take it that is because of algae build up, does black tubing cure that problem of flushing twice a year?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *REZ325*


The fan on the radiator is 4 pin, the instructions said to plug it into the CPU socket. I have the pump on Cha_Fan 2. I have no other 4 pin connectors on my mobo unless I rig something up. 
So I take it there is no way to change it to a lower setting?


If that's a pwm fan header it'll only get half (?) volts. I had it on the CPU header with auto speed control turned off in bios. It's sub-tropical where I live though. At least cpu header feeds full voltage at 100%.


----------



## seesee

The source of my sound issue









I recently brought GT AP-15 to replace Noctua NF-P12, thinking it will solve my noise problem.

I am mounting my H70 as exhaust in a HAF-X. It seems that every time I close the casing, it gives a loud humming sound...

I trace it to the fan that is blowing into the fins of the H70. (not the one that is sandwich by the H70 and casing exhaust)

Did any of you encounter the same problem?


----------



## Barry

I just bought a H50.I hooked it up like corsair said to,rear intake. I have two fans on the top of my case exhausting the heat. I haven't oc-ed yet with this cooler ,maybe tomorrow.I have to see what my load temp is. It was around 70c with my other cooler then i stopped prime,I didn't want to go any higher.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seesee;12024922*
> The source of my sound issue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently brought GT AP-15 to replace Noctua NF-P12, thinking it will solve my noise problem.
> 
> I am mounting my H70 as exhaust in a HAF-X. It seems that every time I close the casing, it gives a loud humming sound...
> 
> I trace it to the fan that is blowing into the fins of the H70. (not the one that is sandwich by the H70 and casing exhaust)
> 
> Did any of you encounter the same problem?


yes which is why I took my newegg gift card and bought a fan controller. Its worth it trust me.


----------



## Kasaris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seesee;12024922*
> The source of my sound issue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently brought GT AP-15 to replace Noctua NF-P12, thinking it will solve my noise problem.
> 
> I am mounting my H70 as exhaust in a HAF-X. It seems that every time I close the casing, it gives a loud humming sound...
> 
> I trace it to the fan that is blowing into the fins of the H70. (not the one that is sandwich by the H70 and casing exhaust)
> 
> Did any of you encounter the same problem?


I kinda had the loud humming sound when I was running the H70 with two S-Flex G's in Push pull, adding a shroud to the push side reduced the noise a good amount, but not enough for my liking.

I decided to switch over to the GT AP-15's though in push / pull exhaust on my HAF X and it is much quieter with no humming and I get the same temps within a degree of when I had the S-Flex's on there.


----------



## seesee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kasaris;12026594*
> I kinda had the loud humming sound when I was running the H70 with two S-Flex G's in Push pull, adding a shroud to the push side reduced the noise a good amount, but not enough for my liking.
> 
> I decided to switch over to the GT AP-15's though in push / pull exhaust on my HAF X and it is much quieter with no humming and I get the same temps within a degree of when I had the S-Flex's on there.


I have HaF-X and AP-15... and I still hear the humming sound


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seesee;12027982*
> I have HaF-X and AP-15... and I still hear the humming sound


Sounds like an air through a case grate noise to me. Sometimes even the same case and fan setups one person will get a humm or high pitched noise and it ends up being just a little different spacing or something with the grates that create the noise.


----------



## seesee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carfanatic;12028149*
> Sounds like an air through a case grate noise to me. Sometimes even the same case and fan setups one person will get a humm or high pitched noise and it ends up being just a little different spacing or something with the grates that create the noise.


the grates means the HAF-X exhaust? well the FAN sandwich between the casing and the radiator doesn't have any sound.. I tested it, by elimination. Is confirm the fan that is blowing/pushing into the radiator~


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seesee;12028275*
> the grates means the HAF-X exhaust? well the FAN sandwich between the casing and the radiator doesn't have any sound.. I tested it, by elimination. Is confirm the fan that is blowing/pushing into the radiator~


shroud, oops, you've tried that.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seesee;12028275*
> the grates means the HAF-X exhaust? well the FAN sandwich between the casing and the radiator doesn't have any sound.. I tested it, by elimination. Is confirm the fan that is blowing/pushing into the radiator~


If you have the fan off from the radiator completely does it make the noise by itself? If it only does it when attached to the radiator it is something that you might be able to RMA it for if it is something that is caused by the radiator itself. I would be pretty mad myself if there was no way to eliminate an annoying noise from my setup. I only hear a little bit of air movement with mine and nothing when there is something else on besides the computer.


----------



## seesee

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


If you have the fan off from the radiator completely does it make the noise by itself? If it only does it when attached to the radiator it is something that you might be able to RMA it for if it is something that is caused by the radiator itself. I would be pretty mad myself if there was no way to eliminate an annoying noise from my setup. I only hear a little bit of air movement with mine and nothing when there is something else on besides the computer.


yes only when is on the radiator. I am thinking of switching the push and pull fan but a bit lazy =x to do so.. haha

can someone help me test? all you need is:

GRATE : GP1(pull) : Radiator: GP2(push)

1) take the CPU power off..
2) plug out the power for the GP1 and listen to GP2 sound
3) plug out the power for GP2 and listen to GP1

check if GP2 is more noisey than GP 1


----------



## black!ce

w00t! count me in! i haz teh H50 in apush pull config with the corsair fan and the coolermaster 120mm that comes with the scout for exhaust does a pretty decent job if you ask me


----------



## railfan844

Push pull w/ thunderblades


----------



## [email protected]

Nice cooler like usual but your case scares me and it screams for a new case and cable management. I can't imagine the flutter airflow in there not being regulated.


----------



## Silvos00

This is sort of a bump on what I said earlier, but I used to have a P/P configuration on my H50 rad. Since installing the 2nd fan, the RPM of the primary fan dropped by 100. Temps increased 1 degree Fahrenheit. The pull fan I used is the stock NZXT fan. Am I installing it wrong somehow, or is my 2nd fan just too weak?


----------



## soldierblue

Does anyone have a dB reading handy or a general assessment on how how loud an H70 with two AP-15s at max RPM is?


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silvos00;12039634*
> This is sort of a bump on what I said earlier, but I used to have a P/P configuration on my H50 rad. Since installing the 2nd fan, the RPM of the primary fan dropped by 100. Temps increased 1 degree Fahrenheit. The pull fan I used is the stock NZXT fan. Am I installing it wrong somehow, or is my 2nd fan just too weak?


When doing a push/pull, the ideal setup would be to have 2 of the same fan doing the work (same CFM, RPM, static pressure, etc). But if for some reason, you have to use 2 different fans then put the stronger fan to do the pulling and the weaker one pushing. Might wanna try that out.


----------



## BackBeat

My Corsair H50 Push/Pull


----------



## Silvos00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaper~;12039687*
> When doing a push/pull, the ideal setup would be to have 2 of the same fan doing the work (same CFM, RPM, static pressure, etc). But if for some reason, you have to use 2 different fans then put the stronger fan to do the pulling and the weaker one pushing. Might wanna try that out.


I figured that had something to do with it. I guess I'm putting both NZXTs on it for now then. Thanks a ton!


----------



## Sandvich

Would it still be better to put the H50 as exhaust with just the 1 fan that comes with it?


----------



## ckybam3

any1 know where I can get a metal backplate for 1156/1155? My backplate broke and is ghetto rigged to work.


----------



## soldierblue

The ones Xigmatek makes are metal, think they're only $9 or $10 too.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soldierblue;12040294*
> The ones Xigmatek makes are metal, think they're only $9 or $10 too.


do they work for the h50? I ask because the h50 screws are wierd


----------



## cmeeks

Xigmatek Crossbow (ACK-I5361) on my P67A-UD5. Running stock h50 hardware otherwise.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmeeks;12040336*
> Xigmatek Crossbow (ACK-I5361) on my P67A-UD5. Running stock h50 hardware otherwise.


tyvm for that ordering now. Greatly appreciate that


----------



## soldierblue

I'll warn that it's got a ridiculously strong adhesive to secure it to the board. As in, good luck getting it off if you use what's on there.


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soldierblue;12040390*
> I'll warn that it's got a ridiculously strong adhesive to secure it to the board. As in, good luck getting it off if you use what's on there.


Meh, nothing a little citrus degreaser can't loosen up


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soldierblue;12040390*
> I'll warn that it's got a ridiculously strong adhesive to secure it to the board. As in, good luck getting it off if you use what's on there.


do I have to use the adhesive? like cant I take that off before I mount it?


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckybam3;12040468*
> do I have to use the adhesive? like cant I take that off before I mount it?


I kept the adhesive on for two reasons:
1. so I don't have to hold the backplate while screwing in the h50
2. to minimize the risk of the backplate shorting out any of the solder points on the back of the mobo. It doesn't sit directly on any, but there are a few right next to it.

You don't have to leave it on, but it will take some serious chemicals to clean the residue off of it. I recommend citrus degreaser, which you can get from most bike shops. But if it's a sturdy backplate, I don't know why you wouldn't just want it stuck on. I would mod any cooler to work with a solid backplate. Also, both sides have adhesive when you first get it - I had to clean off all the adhesive from the side facing away from the mobo.


----------



## soldierblue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmeeks;12040403*
> Meh, nothing a little citrus degreaser can't loosen up


Did that seriously work? I'd really like to get that off there.


----------



## cmeeks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soldierblue;12040498*
> Did that seriously work? I'd really like to get that off there.


Yeah, just dip a washcloth in it and rub really hard. You will know your degreaser is good if it smells strongly of orange peels.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soldierblue;12040498*
> Did that seriously work? I'd really like to get that off there.


lighter fluid will take anything sticky off thats for sure. alltho idk if I would put something flammable on something like a mobo


----------



## cmeeks

As long as you clean it well enough afterward - with alcohol for example.


----------



## andrewmchugh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckybam3;12040307*
> do they work for the h50? I ask because the h50 screws are wierd


shame ur not in uk, but if you send me the carrier cost, i will send out my 1556 h50 back.


----------



## seesee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seesee;12030178*
> yes only when is on the radiator. I am thinking of switching the push and pull fan but a bit lazy =x to do so.. haha
> 
> can someone help me test? all you need is:
> 
> GRATE : GP1(pull) : Radiator: GP2(push)
> 
> 1) take the CPU power off..
> 2) plug out the power for the GP1 and listen to GP2 sound
> 3) plug out the power for GP2 and listen to GP1
> 
> check if GP2 is more noisey than GP 1


help??


----------



## Reflux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckybam3;12040522*
> lighter fluid will take anything sticky off thats for sure. alltho idk if I would put something flammable on something like a mobo


You think motherboards are flammable?









Everything is flammable to some degree, but if your motherboard is prone to randomly bursting into flames I'd look into RMA.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seesee;12041492*
> help??


The push fan is almost always going to be more noisy because of the back pressure of going through the radiator. Unless your pull fan is going through an equally dense object.

If it is making a different noise and more than just one fan make the same noise like whistling or high pitched noises then it could be how your particular radiator was designed and have a flaw that allows the airflow to go through it and make the "whistle" sound.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reflux;12041538*
> You think motherboards are flammable?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything is flammable to some degree, but if your motherboard is prone to randomly bursting into flames I'd look into RMA.


I was being somewhat sarcastic but ya your right. This is ocn tho so our boards are more prone to burning than most


----------



## Dark

Stopping by the store tonight to pick up some parts for an H70 mod (nothing extreme).

I'll post pictures once it's done.

As it sits right now:


----------



## railfan844

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];12039094*
> Nice cooler like usual but your case scares me and it screams for a new case and cable management. I can't imagine the flutter airflow in there not being regulated.


NZXT Phantom on the way from newegg


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *railfan844;12045424*
> NZXT Phantom on the way from newegg


Shell Shocker FTW


----------



## Xeio

Hrmmm, I moved my H70 into my new case (ATCS 840) until I buy my water loop, 10C difference between intake/output.

So, yea, might definitely be worth trying on cases with lower airflow.


----------



## Takonic

so, would people recommend exhaust into the case or out of the case?


----------



## Silvos00

I believe that's been discussed several times, and it varies on the case.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Takonic;12047021*
> so, would people recommend exhaust into the case or out of the case?


read the op. Astek (the ones that make the unit) reccomend it as exhaust. Corsair was said to reccomend intake. And if you read the links in the op you will notice that it depends in part on your gfx and case setup.

I would go with the astek reccomendation since they are the ones making the actual unit.

Also I never posted my pics so here they are finally. Let me know what you think I need to change. I need to sleeve the non black wires you see and also I really wish the case was painted but I think that will be a project for a super rainy day


----------



## Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dark;12044726*
> Stopping by the store tonight to pick up some parts for an H70 mod (nothing extreme).
> 
> I'll post pictures once it's done.
> 
> As it sits right now:


In load I'm seeing 5 degrees cooler temps, idle is about 6-7 degrees cooler.


----------



## ckybam3

is the pump these things use really that good to warrant a res and rad upgrade?


----------



## Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckybam3;12048544*
> is the pump these things use really that good to warrant a res and rad upgrade?


I wouldn't say so. I only added a res since I needed to extend the lines far enough to reach the front of the case.

And in the end it's not really worth it...

$100 for the H70
$20 for the res
$10 for the fluid
$30 for the fans
$5 for the lines

$165....


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dark;12048582*
> I wouldn't say so. I only added a res since I needed to extend the lines far enough to reach the front of the case.
> 
> And in the end it's not really worth it...
> 
> $100 for the H70
> $20 for the res
> $10 for the fluid
> $30 for the fans
> $5 for the lines
> 
> $165....


Thanks I was just purely wondering out of curiosity. I would get a rasa if I was going to add res or anything


----------



## alancsalt

Others have done it without problem. Sexybastard thought his failed, but turned out to be an air bubble. See links on page one - willhemens has done it too. He has a separate thread or two on it


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;12050455*
> Others have done it without problem. Sexybastard thought his failed, but turned out to be an air bubble. See links on page one - willhemens has done it too. He has a separate thread or two on it


I have seen it done and looked at all the ones in the op I was more or less wondering if it gave better temps to warrant the investment or if it was more a cool mod to do type thing. I think it looks fun but for the price id get a full custom loop since I dont particuarly think the h50/h70 block is that great.


----------



## alancsalt

Very logical Mr Spock.


----------



## andrewmchugh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Takonic;12047021*
> so, would people recommend exhaust into the case or out of the case?


It completely up to you, the way i decided was, have it the way corsair said. breathing in air from the outside of the case (intake), load up Core Temp (or similar) then run Prime95 with the In-place large FFTs, see what the temp gets up to after a certain time. Then swap to exhaust and see what result you get after the same amount of time.


----------



## soldierblue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Takonic;12047021*
> so, would people recommend exhaust into the case or out of the case?


I'm running as exhaust. I don't think my 580 would appreciate it as an intake. It all depends on the rest of your hardware and cooling set up. I think it's probably 2 or 3C difference at best.


----------



## Sandvich

Are these the right screws for the H50?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7140/scr-128/FrozenCPU_38mm_Depth_Fan_Screw_4-Pack.html?tl=g47c121s242&id=MFF8XGhz


----------



## Primus

Ballinnn...


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sandvich;12052305*
> Are these the right screws for the H50?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7140/scr-128/FrozenCPU_38mm_Depth_Fan_Screw_4-Pack.html?tl=g47c121s242&id=MFF8XGhz


Dunno. Is M3-0.5 the same as 6-32 (6 gauge, 32 threads to the inch)? Not quite.

For an explanation of the difference (something I didn't know either) see:

*http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_case_screws*

You made me learn something!


----------



## andrewmchugh

Whats the crack with back mounts









go to scan.. buy a 2.99 mount. sharkoon-rebel-9

What do you lot think?


----------



## grillinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Primus;12052403*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ballinnn...


Any room for cable management in that case? Your system temps will thank you.


----------



## grillinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrewmchugh;12052778*
> Whats the crack with back mounts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> go to scan.. buy a 2.99 mount. sharkoon-rebel-9
> 
> What do you lot think?


How do you like that so far? I have tons of spare room in my 5.25 drive area and was thinking of doing this.

Any noticeable effect on temps? Noise?


----------



## andrewmchugh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grillinman;12054120*
> How do you like that so far? I have tons of spare room in my 5.25 drive area and was thinking of doing this.
> 
> Any noticeable effect on temps? Noise?


yeh mate, ive dropped a few C and that with the pc pulled miles off the wall, for me having the mount at the back is mad,

because you using the hot air off gpu and mbo to "cool" the cpu or your drawing in air from the back which is most likely up against a wall, so its stuffy

1 hour on prime on the max heat output, and 76 C max temp on the hottest core, and thats all the fans on lowest settings.

Do it man!!!


----------



## skwannabe

Hows these for push and pull config?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185091

NVM


----------



## [email protected]

They're good, some fans out there an push harder and they cost more.


----------



## blixx666

i got the 1850 rpm model gentle typhoons, and running them at full speed in a push/pull configuration. I got the same results. 20c idle 45c max load. im kinda disappointed with the results but i can live with it.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blixx666;12058918*
> i got the 1850 rpm model gentle typhoons, and running them at full speed in a push/pull configuration. I got the same results. 20c idle 45c max load. im kinda disappointed with the results but i can live with it.


Any quieter though?


----------



## soldierblue

Well, I thought I would have my AP-15s today. Last night tracking showed they were 40 miles north of me. Then it shows they're 40 miles south of me.

Good job USPS.


----------



## =Tac=

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soldierblue*


Well, I thought I would have my AP-15s today. Last night tracking showed they were 40 miles north of me. Then it shows they're 40 miles south of me.

Good job USPS.


At least their keeping you updated, so many times when I try to track USPS it is a few days behind where the actual package is lol.

Just moved my H50 to the front drive bays, dropped a few more degrees, just gotta find a little cleaner way to mount it.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *=Tac=*


At least their keeping you updated, so many times when I try to track USPS it is a few days behind where the actual package is lol.

Just moved my H50 to the front drive bays, dropped a few more degrees, just gotta find a little cleaner way to mount it.


It is all up to the individual post offices to update it as they receive and send the package to it's next location so if one doesn't update their package tracking daily then that is why sometimes you will get updates from one point after others. USPS sucks as far as keeping you updated about progress.


----------



## dudenell

Without going through this whole thread does this look ok for the h70Â¿
I have enough room for the latch


----------



## blixx666

The ap-15s seem to be quiet @full speed. I went up close to them and don't hear much. The noise is mostly coming from the stock corsair fan that I use as a top exhaust. I gotta admit that the gentle typhoons do offer excellent cooling for low noise which is good enough for me but i thought that these fans would also offer better performance than the stock fan. I guess my expectations were a little too high.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dudenell;12063631*
> Without going through this whole thread does this look ok for the h70¿
> I have enough room for the latch


Not quite sure what your asking but it should fit fine


----------



## Demented

Question: I currently have one of these, and I love it! I have done a few things to my case requiring reseating the H50, and both times I have spread the MX-2 on the CPU, then applied the H50. I'll be getting a new case soon, and will be dismantling everything for cleaning and switching to the new case.

What I want to know is if there is a better way to apply the thermal paste to ensure good contact. I'm not really complaining as even when stress testing my Q9550 never gets above 64c and that was in the summer, but if there is a better way of applying it, I'd like to try.

Good thing about the case I'm getting is it has an opening behind the motherboard so I won't have to take it out if I want to try different application methods.


----------



## dudenell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckybam3;12066052*
> Not quite sure what your asking but it should fit fine


ah I meant mounting wise, I mean should I go with that instead of on the top correct?


----------



## reaper~

OP should add Corsair H60 to the list since it's almost here. Anyone planning to get one?


----------



## ckybam3

I was at microcenter looking at the different brackets and noticed these two looked the same. I however waited to double check.

Can I in fact use this as a backplate? I know some1 said that the 15361 worked but I just wanted to verify that the 15362 worked as well.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233039


----------



## Primus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grillinman;12054095*
> Any room for cable management in that case? Your system temps will thank you.


Unfortunately, this is as good as it gets:









I have a Rosewill Destroyer, and while it's an awesome case for $60, the cable management is terrible.

Oh, well.


----------



## [email protected]

IMO i think the mounting is so much better than the H50 because it's hard to tell if it's seated properly let alone using a H70 you can see it's sitting flat down while you screw X shaped holding the cpu DOWN. Works for me.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];12067186*
> IMO i think the mounting is so much better than the H50 because it's hard to tell if it's seated properly let alone using a H70 you can see it's sitting flat down while you screw X shaped holding the cpu DOWN. Works for me.


I am confused are you saying the h70 mounting is better than the h50? If so what are the differences besides the h70 block being smaller?


----------



## reaper~

2 screw holes on the H70 rad are stripped so be careful not to tighten yours too much. Emailed Corsair and they said to send it back so I went out and bought an H50 as a temporary cooler. The mountings are the same, even the temps look the same lol (same fans, different TIM).


----------



## groundzero9

Traded my D14 for a H70 so I could downsize my case. Temps are just as low with both coolers.










I plan on getting a Feser Triebwerk to replace the stock fans eventually.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented;12066957*
> Question: I currently have one of these, and I love it! I have done a few things to my case requiring reseating the H50, and both times I have spread the MX-2 on the CPU, then applied the H50. I'll be getting a new case soon, and will be dismantling everything for cleaning and switching to the new case.
> 
> What I want to know is if there is a better way to apply the thermal paste to ensure good contact. I'm not really complaining as even when stress testing my Q9550 never gets above 64c and that was in the summer, but if there is a better way of applying it, I'd like to try.
> 
> Good thing about the case I'm getting is it has an opening behind the motherboard so I won't have to take it out if I want to try different application methods.


pea sized dot of mx-2 or whatever you use in the middle. put some pressure with the heatsink to spread. Twist heatsink 1/4 rotation each way one time. tighten heatsink evenly. Basically you are letting the heatsink do the spreading for you.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ckybam3*


pea sized dot of mx-2 or whatever you use in the middle. put some pressure with the heatsink to spread. Twist heatsink 1/4 rotation each way one time. tighten heatsink evenly. Basically you are letting the heatsink do the spreading for you.


Depends how thick the TIM is if your using something like Artic Silver Ceramique it doesn't spread so well by just pressure. I would suggest spreading it on your CPU manually with a rubber glove if your using something that thick.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ckybam3*


pea sized dot of mx-2 or whatever you use in the middle. put some pressure with the heatsink to spread. Twist heatsink 1/4 rotation each way one time. tighten heatsink evenly. Basically you are letting the heatsink do the spreading for you.


I like to do a small amount in each corner and about a pea sized dot in the middle. Works best for me, but its basically the same thing


----------



## soldierblue

I got them and installed them. I'm pleased. I'm using a voltage reg on each fan to keep them at about ~1500 rpm, which I'll probably take off when it gets warmer outside.










No clue why one core is 9C warmer at idle. In the BIOS, all temps are reported 4 or 5C lower as well. I don't know which to believe for sure.

EDIT: IC Diamond was used on the mount rather than the stock TIM.


----------



## andrewmchugh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *groundzero9;12073610*
> Traded my D14 for a H70 so I could downsize my case. Temps are just as low with both coolers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan on getting a Feser Triebwerk to replace the stock fans eventually.


nice in the front like myne! whats holding it?


----------



## superj1977

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carfanatic;12073804*
> Depends how thick the TIM is if your using something like Artic Silver Ceramique it doesn't spread so well by just pressure. I would suggest spreading it on your CPU manually with a rubber glove if your using something that thick.


If its thick and you spread it out first with a glove then this method is extremely likely to trap bubbles when the two surfaces are pushed together,dont do it this way.

Watch at 1:55 for the air bubbles im talking about,air bubbles mean the surfaces dont make complete contact and less contact means less heat transfer.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyXLu1Ms-q4[/ame]


----------



## nickbaldwin86

I should get into this club just before I get my block in my loop


----------



## groundzero9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrewmchugh;12076843*
> nice in the front like myne! whats holding it?


Gravity







It's just sitting there until I can get a thicker fan and one of these so I have something to bolt it to:


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superj1977;12076898*
> If its thick and you spread it out first with a glove then this method is extremely likely to trap bubbles when the two surfaces are pushed together,dont do it this way.
> 
> Watch at 1:55 for the air bubbles im talking about,air bubbles mean the surfaces dont make complete contact and less contact means less heat transfer.


See how he put it straight/flat on that's why he got all the air bubbles.

If you pre-spread you put it on starting on one edge and push on towards the opposite edge. Little hard to do with the H50 but I can show repeated results with any heatsink with TIM pre-spread and no air bubbles.

On top of that I said specifically AS Ceramique because it is thicker than all most TIM's and especially whatever was used in that video.


----------



## clubfoot

He also did not test AS3 using the thin spread method.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


See how he put it straight/flat on that's why he got all the air bubbles.

If you pre-spread you put it on starting on one edge and push on towards the opposite edge. Little hard to do with the H50 but I can show repeated results with any heatsink with TIM pre-spread and no air bubbles.

On top of that I said specifically AS Ceramique because it is thicker than all most TIM's and especially whatever was used in that video.


Laying it down from one side to the other would indeed prevent air bubbles but I would think the spread is then pushed farther on one side than the other and if you have spread it all over the cpu already its going to come off in excess no?

And to whoever asked about tim application I did the dot method with my lapped h50 with ic7 and ppl say that stuff is super hard to spread yet I get the best temps with the dot method so yea.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckybam3;12080894*
> Laying it down from one side to the other would indeed prevent air bubbles but I would think the spread is then pushed farther on one side than the other and if you have spread it all over the cpu already its going to come off in excess no?


It is such a thin spread if done properly no it should not move to one side. Even if you did have a little too much and the excess come off the side you laid down last with Ceramique it wouldn't matter it is non conductive other than the little bit of mess it wouldn't make one bit of difference.

I used spread method with my H50 and AS5 I have awesome temps after the cure time and working to find the best setup.

I recommend Ceramique to anyone that is leery about using TIM because of it being non conductive.


----------



## Aznboy1993

man...i haven't been in this thread in a while. just got another h50 after selling mine over 8 months ago!


----------



## ebolamonkey3

For those of your guys using 25mm fan shrouds, what kind of screws (length, thread) are you guys using? I want to add a shroud to my GT AP-15.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ebolamonkey3*


For those of your guys using 25mm fan shrouds, what kind of screws (length, thread) are you guys using? I want to add a shroud to my GT AP-15.


http://lmgtfy.com/?q=H50-1+screw+spe...tions%E2%80%8E
and
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=what+is+1.25+in...25mm+in+inches


----------



## ned99

Hey I just replaced my Arctic Cooler Freezer 7 with an H50 about 2 hours ago and I've noticed no difference in temps. I've got 2 Yate-Loon's running in a push/pull config but I hit 68* about 1 minute into an IBT run. Does the stock paste need time to cure? Or do you have any other thoughts about why my temps are so bad?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ned99*


Hey I just replaced my Arctic Cooler Freezer 7 with an H50 about 2 hours ago and I've noticed no difference in temps. I've got 2 Yate-Loon's running in a push/pull config but I hit 68* about 1 minute into an IBT run. Does the stock paste need time to cure? Or do you have any other thoughts about why my temps are so bad?


What are your ambient temps, what two yate loon fans are you running?

Make sure the pump locked into the retaining ring when you mounted it and make sure it is as tight as you can get it without of course stripping out the cheap back bracket.

The stock TIM is a zero time rated cure time basically you need one full temp heat up and then a full cool down to ambient temp and it is cured.


----------



## DJ4g63t

So I finally got around to sleeving my Yate loon high speed fans and I put one on my HR03 GT gpu cooler and one on the top as an exhaust. My biggest gripe about turning my H50 into an intake was my gpu temps went up 8-10C while gaming.

This is an OCCT Gpu stress test with the H50 as intake and a CM R4 on the gpu cooler and top exhaust. It only took about 4 minutes for the gpu to hit 70C and hovered around there for another 10 minutes.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

This is the same OCCT gpu stress test with the Yate high speed fans on the gpu and top exhaust. Both test ambient temps were 21C. I ran this test for 15 minutes and my temps are 4-5C cooler with the Yates










Uploaded with ImageShack.us

So far I'm very happy with the Yates. They flow a lot of air have good static pressure and are still fairly quiet. My next step will probly be to put my other 2 Yates on my H50 and go back to exhausting it. As usual if I do will have some before and after screenies.


----------



## ned99

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


What are your ambient temps, what two yate loon fans are you running?


The ambient is 20* and I've got 2 D14SM-12 Yate-Loons, 1400 rpm 62 cfm. I'll try tightening the screws a bit more.

EDIT:

The screws were wayyyyy too loose. After tightening them temps peaked at 55* under IBT! Wooo! That's a 14* difference between the H50 and the AC7 Pro! Would I have hurt the performance of the paste in any way by not having the pump tight enough?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ned99*


Would I have hurt the performance of the paste in any way by not having the pump tight enough?



If was so loose it could move around freely it could have but if not that loose then I wouldn't worry.

The D14SM-12 Yate loon is a 140mm fan you using adapters?

# Model: D14SM-12
# Air Flow: 62 CFM
# Fan Speed: 1400 RPM
# Noise Level: 29 dBA
# Power: 2.0 watt
# Fan Size: 140x140x25 MM


----------



## ned99

Sorry I meant the D12SM-12. Temps peaked at 59* (was about 67* with AC7) while playing BFBC2 which doesn't seem like that great a difference, is that what I should expect?


----------



## SilverSS/SC

I think I have a bad seat on my H70. 
3.8ghz @ 1.308v
Idle - 37*C
Load - 59*C

Should I reseat?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ned99*


Sorry I meant the D12SM-12. Temps peaked at 59* (was about 67* with AC7) while playing BFBC2 which doesn't seem like that great a difference, is that what I should expect?


I don't know intel chips very well but if that 59c is your IBT temp that is very good even 67C seems okay all depends on your OC and Vcore.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SilverSS/SC*


I think I have a bad seat on my H70. 
3.8ghz @ 1.308v
Idle - 37*C
Load - 59*C

Should I reseat?


Seems a little high to me first you should check to make sure it is tightened down properly and of course check where you have your fans/pump plugged in to make sure they are all running at 100%.


----------



## =Tac=

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SilverSS/SC*


I think I have a bad seat on my H70. 
3.8ghz @ 1.308v
Idle - 37*C
Load - 59*C

Should I reseat?


What's your ambients? Hows it setup (rear exhaust/intake, front bay, etc.), and is your pump plugged into a fan hook up that allows it to run full speed and not variable?

I have lesser strength fans on my H50, set to intake from front drive bay, and I get 26 idle and 45 full load with my 1090 at 3.8 @ 1.325v, ambients about 70*F, so your load temp looks a little high with the voltage you're running. To me, if your H70 is hooked up correctly, and fans/pump running full, it looks like it wasn't seated correctly.


----------



## SilverSS/SC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


...Seems a little high to me first you should check to make sure it is tightened down properly and of course check where you have your fans/pump plugged in to make sure they are all running at 100%.


It is tightened down properly, just checked it again. Fans are running off molex, @ 100%.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *=Tac=*


What's your ambients? Hows it setup (rear exhaust/intake, front bay, etc.), and is your pump plugged into a fan hook up that allows it to run full speed and not variable?

I have lesser strength fans on my H50, set to intake from front drive bay, and I get 26 idle and 45 full load with my 1090 at 3.8 @ 1.325v, ambients about 70*F, so your load temp looks a little high with the voltage you're running. To me, if your H70 is hooked up correctly, and fans/pump running full, it looks like it wasn't seated correctly.


Corsair 800D Case, Rear Exhaust setup, pump is running @ 1434rpm, fans are running @ 2000rpm, and are running off molexes @ 100%

That's why I'm pretty sure it's a bad seating job.


----------



## Xristo

Just sharing a few pics =D the sticker from the corsair fan is uv reactive .. looks cool on the pump .


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Anyone that modded their h50/70 and added a 240 rad or changed out the rad- what did you use? and what has the success been of a 240 or a different 120? How is the pump holding up?


----------



## [email protected]

Xistro seriously if i was you.. get some stickers from Radio Shack cut them in squares and mount them where you cannot see the cold cathodes. They look horrid in your case set like that.


----------



## Xristo

irl they aren't that bright , everything thats black stays dark and wateva is red or white lights up .. I like them there , if i hid them i will get no uv effect on anything .. this way i get my gfx card and my whole mobo .. lol but thanks


----------



## Xristo

suggest a place for me to put them .. i did have 1 on the side but it didnt really light anything up ..


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


So far I'm very happy with the Yates. They flow a lot of air have good static pressure and are still fairly quiet. My next step will probly be to put my other 2 Yates on my H50 and go back to exhausting it. As usual if I do will have some before and after screenies.










The yates get alot louder when put on the rad. I needed a fan controller myself and I can deal with alot of noise. I used to have a yate on a true and it was basically silent. On the rad they are very audible. Just a heads up.


----------



## Seanay00

ne1 got a H70 or H50 mounting bracket for an i7?? I just need the black plastic bit that sits behind the motherboard.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Seanay00*


ne1 got a H70 or H50 mounting bracket for an i7?? I just need the black plastic bit that sits behind the motherboard.


if you look a few pages back you will see that this works for 1155 and since its an all inclusive its gotta support yours too.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


suggest a place for me to put them .. i did have 1 on the side but it didnt really light anything up ..


I been thinking about moving mine in my "show" build I have one at the top hidden and one at the bottom but just like you said they don't light anything up....

I wish they made 100x brighter ones or something then it would be perfect at the top and bottom like I have them now.


----------



## Xristo

Ok i took your criticism and moved them elsewhere lol and yeah it does look heaps better , thanks .

I love how thr 6950 lights up , definatly getting another one =D i have blue cathodes aswel but they are too bright for my likings it ruins the uv .


----------



## [email protected]

You're welcome i have a better tip.. where is your inverter? I have mine hidden inside that bay on the right top that is made for "water cooled" reserviors. And i re-routed the wires to the switcher behind the case and it's lying against the bay screw area tied, i duct taped the switch ON at all times so it glows right away when i boot her.

The cold cathode is hidden on top of my side panel. Cannot even see it. And the wires are running through a small hole in the bay plugged in the inverter. Also my second cathode is attached to the drive bay leaning against the wall so i cannot see it but you can a little if you are standing besides behind your case. It works and looks clean.

I will be willing to take pics for you tomorrow if you want. Cheers!


----------



## Xristo

the kit i got from audio shack has molex connectors and a switch , i tried many different places but i also want to keep my cables nice n neat so the way it is now looks good







looks better in person too my camera is crap .


----------



## travva

Hey fellas! Great thread here. Long time h50 user and i love it. i am putting a 980x in tomorrow hopefully and wondered if i should use my push pull combo COOLER MASTER R4-L2R-20CG-GP 120mm Green LED Case Fans or use the stock ones? these seem to work pretty well. they keep my i7 930 with pretty high vcore at low 40's on idle and low 80's on load in IBT. what do you guys suggest? is there something better i should get? i'd like them to be relatively quiet but my case isn't silent by any means currently.


----------



## Ubeermench

Cant wait till i get off work to install it.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SilverSS/SC*


I think I have a bad seat on my H70. 
3.8ghz @ 1.308v
Idle - 37*C
Load - 59*C

Should I reseat?


With all my fans on low: (Yates running at 1000RPM instead of 2000+)
4.05ghz @ 1.45v
Idle - 30CÂ°C
Load - 45CÂ°C
Gaming - 36Â°C

**These temps are my CPU socket temps as unlocking gets rid of core temp readings, though with my 955, they were usually core temps + 3Â°C**

Seems like a bad seating job to me as well. I used AS-5 with the 5-dot method, used about the same amount as the middle-dot method, but I had it spread out with a dot on the middle + each side.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *travva*


Hey fellas! Great thread here. Long time h50 user and i love it. i am putting a 980x in tomorrow hopefully and wondered if i should use my push pull combo COOLER MASTER R4-L2R-20CG-GP 120mm Green LED Case Fans or use the stock ones? these seem to work pretty well. they keep my i7 930 with pretty high vcore at low 40's on idle and low 80's on load in IBT. what do you guys suggest? is there something better i should get? i'd like them to be relatively quiet but my case isn't silent by any means currently.


If you're happy with those temps/volume, then keep it, but people generally recommend the Gentle Typhoons AP-15 for best performance/volume, while the Yate Loon High Speeds are for price/performance(about $4-$7 per fan depending on which store you get it from). The great thing about the Yates are that you can choose to run them at any speed you like, as long as your motherboard allows it or you have a fan controller, so they can still perform great at lower speeds.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ckybam3*


The yates get alot louder when put on the rad. I needed a fan controller myself and I can deal with alot of noise. I used to have a yate on a true and it was basically silent. On the rad they are very audible. Just a heads up.


Well to be honest the Yate on my HR03 GT is quieter at full tilt than the CM R4 it replaced even though the specs say it should be louder. My R4's on the H50 are def audible at full blast. Even if the Yates are slightly louder they should def outperform the R4's and I only run them at 100% while gaming and I wear ear buds for that so its no big deal









Edit:
Oh and don't forget I did dynomat a few panels inside my case and it quieted it down quite a bit


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


Well to be honest the Yate on my HR03 GT is quieter at full tilt than the CM R4 it replaced even though the specs say it should be louder. My R4's on the H50 are def audible at full blast. Even if the Yates are slightly louder they should def outperform the R4's and I only run them at 100% while gaming and I wear ear buds for that so its no big deal









Edit:
Oh and don't forget I did dynomat a few panels inside my case and it quieted it down quite a bit


CM R4 fans had completely over listed specs by CM for everything. They have since changed all their listed specs for them except for the DB rating I think is still listed at 19 which is accurate it is just 19db at the lowest speed the fan will run at instead of listing what the db is at the highest speed.


----------



## Xristo




----------



## Cykososhull

I finally got around to taking pics so I can finally be added. I'm only through about 300 of the pages.


----------



## DJ4g63t

I'm loving these Yate Loon high speeds







Between the one on my gpu cooler and top exhaust they are keeping my gpu and system temps 5-7C cooler under heavy gaming than the CM R4's did even with my H50 as an intake. I'm really itching now to throw my other two on the H50 and see how much I can gain on cpu temps.

These were my temps after 20 minutes of COD4 with the R4's and the H50 as an intake with ambient temps at 21C


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

These are my temps now with the Yate high speed on the gpu and top exhuast after about 2 hours of COD4 with ambients also at 21C


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## nerdybeat

Hey all!

I am new to the club. I must say I am in love with my new H70. I upgraded from a Zalman 9500A fan which was brought over from my old build. I soon realized that I would need more cooling power for OCing my cpu. Idle temps between the two aren't too terribly different, but while on load my H70 keeps my PC quite cool. I am also using the low settings on the fans (~1500rpm, via the included cables. I may remove them when I start OCing more hardcore to go back to the ~2000rpm default.)

I am going to include a good amount of pics, primarily because I wish someone had some detailed info/pics about the H70 in an Antec 902 when I was considering my purchase! (I didn't see much in this thread... lots of 1200s tho)

















right after install!!








in action!!









Just a heads up for any Antec 902 owners looking to purchase the H70: You will need to do a tiny bit of "modding" to your case. The proper word would be "chopping"








The side-panel fan mount gets in the way when trying to slide the panel back on. No biggie for me, as I never intend to used a side fan anyways. I went ahead and hacked off a bit of the plastic, and it works just fine.

Anyways..... Lovin' this cooler, and hope that this post helps anyone with an Antec 902 thinking about the H70!!


----------



## [email protected]

Xristo here are the pictures of what i did with the cold cathodes, this will help you and also make your cable management look nicer and the outcome will be better











Uploaded with ImageShack.us

This is where the first cathode is..on top far left corner so it doesn't bump into the H70 when upon closing the side panel.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

this is where i route my cable through the little hole of the hard drive bays. Pluggin in the Invertor of the cold cathode.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

This is my invertor for the cold cathode. The wires to power it up is behind the invertor leading to another hole behind the case tower leading to the molex and switch on and off bracket holder. I know you notice little ledges scruffed up, that's because i had to bend the lines to make my cd/dvdrom to slide in. It wouldn't fit cuz it was too big. not a big deal anyways.. back to the point.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

this is behind my case tower, see the invertor switcher and molex? This is how i had it done. I duct taped the switch to ON at all times when i boot my pc. The molex are leaning against the wall plugged in so i can close my back panel case.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

This is my second cold cathode lined up on the sides plugging in the invertor, i also pushed the remaining cable that's hanging out into the bay on top next to it. Now it looks clean and i cannot see the cathodes at all.

Hope this helps. I could take a pic of my case with uv reactive but it's hard to do because i have a cellphone camera but i will do one later so you can get the idea. Hope this helps for those who needed to put their cold cathodes out of view!


----------



## 35g700

I just won an H70 in a [email protected] contest. Currently I'm using a Xigmatek HDT-S1283. It's a 120MM cooler but its the one with three heat pipes instead of four. Do you guys think I'll see a big improvement in cooling on my i5 750?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];12096208*
> Xristo here are the pictures of what i did with the cold cathodes, this will help you and also make your cable management look nicer and the outcome will be better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps. I could take a pic of my case with uv reactive but it's hard to do because i have a cellphone camera but i will do one later so you can get the idea. Hope this helps for those who needed to put their cold cathodes out of view!


I have mine on set at the top in the back right above the motherboard basically hidden by the two top fans and then the other at the very bottom of my case where it is out of sight totally but, my problem is that nothing glows because the cathodes are not close enough.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *35g700;12096525*
> I just won an H70 in a [email protected] contest. Currently I'm using a Xigmatek HDT-S1283. It's a 120MM cooler but its the one with three heat pipes instead of four. Do you guys think I'll see a big improvement in cooling on my i5 750?


depends how flat your h70 is really but my guessing is 5c tops


----------



## HiLuckyB

My H50 on my i5 750 @4.0GHz 1.35v would get 63c cpu and 63c hottest core. Just for reference


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carfanatic;12096743*
> I have mine on set at the top in the back right above the motherboard basically hidden by the two top fans and then the other at the very bottom of my case where it is out of sight totally but, my problem is that nothing glows because the cathodes are not close enough.


That's because it's behind the area, kinda like casting a shadow. Use my advice. Hope the other dude read the post.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];12098485*
> That's because it's behind the area, kinda like casting a shadow. Use my advice. Hope the other dude read the post.


I've tried all over in any area that I can hide them they don't provide enough light to make anything "glow" except the immediate area where they are sitting like 2mm around them. The whole case and every component in the case is coated with ClearNeon spray paint and glows under UV light but, I dunno if the cathodes(LOGISYS Computer CLK12UV2 12" DUAL UV COLD CATHODE KIT)I got suck or what, just cannot find the right place to put em. I am using a COOLER MASTER Elite 430 case I have 5 UV blue led Yate-Loon medium speed 120mm fans and the one stock 120mm fan up front maybe too much light possibly with the led's on the fans or something....


----------



## soldierblue

As it stands now with the added AP-15s. No clue what to do with the fan wires, so I just tied them to the top grate.










Is there any benefit to having each fan on a seperate connector instead of the included Y-adapter?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soldierblue;12098773*
> As it stands now with the added AP-15s. No clue what to do with the fan wires, so I just tied them to the top grate.
> 
> Is there any benefit to having each fan on a seperate connector instead of the included Y-adapter?


With higher amperage fans possibly but AP-15's don't use a whole lot so wouldn't make a difference.

I would tie the wire back as far as you can or try to hide it as much as you can before tieing it, looks fine to me the way you have it though.


----------



## ELEKTRIK_BLUE

update for my rig
new tubing and added a microres. i also took apart the entire block and removed some foam spacer padding inside the pump and removed some odd sticky black foam kinda padding thing from the fins on the cold-plate. i didnt take a picture of it sadly i kinda regret it. however here is my finished rig.


----------



## soldierblue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carfanatic;12098870*
> I would tie the wire back as far as you can or try to hide it as much as you can before tieing it, looks fine to me the way you have it though.


I got it on the last drill hole, I think. I might go in there with an adhesive zip-tie anchor and hide it in the corner that way.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ELEKTRIK_BLUE;12099007*
> update for my rig
> new tubing and added a microres. i also took apart the entire block and removed some foam spacer padding inside the pump and removed some odd sticky black foam kinda padding thing from the fins on the cold-plate. i didnt take a picture of it sadly i kinda regret it. however here is my finished rig.


Looks good but arent you gonna post some before and after load temps?


----------



## seesee

just curious if i put a shroud on the pull side.. will it reduce the noise from the pulling fan?

HAFX GRATE : Pull :shroud: H70 : shroud ush

I am using GT AP-15 and already install a shroud on the push side.. but the noise is still unbearable for me









May I should start getting rubber washer to reduce the noise =x


----------



## Mache

Hi all, anyone having problems fitting a 1156 backplate to a 1155 mobo?

Having problems fitting, if anyone has a picture that would be awesome,

Cheers


----------



## Witchdoctor

I thought they were one in the same....

Mine is in transit right now ..... Let me know how you make out


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mache*


Hi all, anyone having problems fitting a 1156 backplate to a 1155 mobo?

Having problems fitting, if anyone has a picture that would be awesome,

Cheers


Nope, no problems. It seemed a little tricky at first because the diagram on paper doesn't seem to correlate with the actual markings on the backplate. Just use the 1156 markings on the backplate and you should be fine.


----------



## ELEKTRIK_BLUE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t;12099634*
> Looks good but arent you gonna post some before and after load temps?


yes and no i can post dual core before and after load temps but not unlocked triple i didn't unlock it and mess with it a whole lot till recently and unfortunately i don't remember the load temps when i first unlocked it last year.

before mod (stock clocks and voltage)
20c-30C (linx prime95 and everest stability test)

before mod (3.8ghz 304x12.5 @ 1.4750V)
27C-38C (linx Prime95 and everest stability test )

after mod (stock clocks and voltage)
18C-26C (linx prime95 and everest stability test)

after mod (3.8ghz 104x12.5 @ 1.4750V)
25C-33C (linx prime95 and everest stability test)

after mod (3.9ghz 250x15.5 @1.4850V)
36C-47C (linx prime95 and everest stability test)

after mod (4009mhz 211x19 @1.62V) - unstable bsod after 7linpacks at 2775mb
41C-53C (linx prime95 and everest stability test)

after mod (unlocked Triple 3.8ghz 304x12.5 @1.51V
38C-51C (linx prime95 and everest stability test)

haven't done much stock testing on the unlocked triple im focused on getting to 4ghz or higher on my 550 but i cant get it stable at less than 1.5Vid and 1.62Vcore ive seen alot of guys on here that have it stable at 4ghz at 1.52V which leaves me sitting here scratching my head in curiosity ive tried lowering my ram divider and it doesn't change anything i can actually a few more linpacks at 1333mhz 7-7-7-20-7-30-T1 timings than i can at 860mhz 5-5-5-16-5-22 performance wise there close to the same via sisasoft ram test.

also just before the mod i upgraded from the logisys clear power 550 uv blue psu to the apevia warlock power 750W that might make a small difference in temps.

i will update more as i do further testing and mods


----------



## hotstocks

I went thru this same hassle. Just mount in the 1156 holes, use one of the double sided tapes (not the one that goes over the pins/resistors). And yes it will look diagonal, but be fine. I am running i2500k at 4.7ghz 1.29v 60's primed.


----------



## Mache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife;12101700*
> Nope, no problems. It seemed a little tricky at first because the diagram on paper doesn't seem to correlate with the actual markings on the backplate. Just use the 1156 markings on the backplate and you should be fine.


Thanks mate, but unfortunatly i dont have the same backplate. I may have the older versions









Would you know if Corsair make a 1155 backplate?

Cheers


----------



## seesee

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seesee*


just curious if i put a shroud on the pull side.. will it reduce the noise from the pulling fan?

HAFX GRATE : Pull :shroud: H70 : shroud







ush

I am using GT AP-15 and already install a shroud on the push side.. but the noise is still unbearable for me









May I should start getting rubber washer to reduce the noise =x


help??


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ELEKTRIK_BLUE*


yes and no i can post dual core before and after load temps but not unlocked triple i didn't unlock it and mess with it a whole lot till recently and unfortunately i don't remember the load temps when i first unlocked it last year.

before mod (stock clocks and voltage)
20c-30C (linx prime95 and everest stability test)

before mod (3.8ghz 304x12.5 @ 1.4750V)
27C-38C (linx Prime95 and everest stability test )

after mod (stock clocks and voltage)
18C-26C (linx prime95 and everest stability test)

after mod (3.8ghz 104x12.5 @ 1.4750V)
25C-33C (linx prime95 and everest stability test)

after mod (3.9ghz 250x15.5 @1.4850V)
36C-47C (linx prime95 and everest stability test)

after mod (4009mhz 211x19 @1.62V) - unstable bsod after 7linpacks at 2775mb 
41C-53C (linx prime95 and everest stability test)

after mod (unlocked Triple 3.8ghz 304x12.5 @1.51V
38C-51C (linx prime95 and everest stability test)

haven't done much stock testing on the unlocked triple im focused on getting to 4ghz or higher on my 550 but i cant get it stable at less than 1.5Vid and 1.62Vcore ive seen alot of guys on here that have it stable at 4ghz at 1.52V which leaves me sitting here scratching my head in curiosity ive tried lowering my ram divider and it doesn't change anything i can actually a few more linpacks at 1333mhz 7-7-7-20-7-30-T1 timings than i can at 860mhz 5-5-5-16-5-22 performance wise there close to the same via sisasoft ram test.

also just before the mod i upgraded from the logisys clear power 550 uv blue psu to the apevia warlock power 750W that might make a small difference in temps.

i will update more as i do further testing and mods



So I'm seeing roughly a 5C difference. I like it. What size tubing did you use? I may take on this project before I make the leap to a full water loop.


----------



## ELEKTRIK_BLUE

mind if i throw my 2 cents in?
i dont really have issues with fan vibration and noise the loudest thing in my case is my graphics card fan the eah5770 can be a bit loud at 100% load if it ever gets that high. my fans are all bolted to the case rather than using the tiny coarse thread screws they give you. i just use 4mm 1 1/2 length bolts with 4mm nuts and washers. i also tighten them down to were the ends were the bolt goes through are sorta bent in on the outermost end. im not sure if this is good or bad or if it makes any bit of difference at all. just thought id pitch in a lil.

also another trick you can do is take small 1/2in 4mm bolts and 4mm nuts and rather than bolt it through both sides of the fan just bolt down the side closest to what your mounting it to and fit it down as snug as you can without snapping the plastic.


----------



## DJ4g63t

I had issues as well with my fans vibrating my case panels when I ran them at 100%. It was an annoying humming sound. All I did was cut up a few pieces of my old dynamat sound deadener that I had lying around from my car audio build and placed them on the large case panels and now the humming is 100% gone







. All I can hear now is the sound of air moving.


----------



## ELEKTRIK_BLUE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


So I'm seeing roughly a 5C difference. I like it. What size tubing did you use? I may take on this project before I make the leap to a full water loop.


i used 1/4 id tubing i got 20ft of it at lowed for $4 and change also if your in a pinch you can get fittings at lowes but there ugly brass ones unless u happen to come across stainless which if you do grab em cuz there alot cheaper than bitspower and in my opinion work just as well.

in all honesty i would buy it to get comfortable with water-cooling temps and overclocks and such least till the warranty runs out then rip it apart and mod the crap out of it lol. i wanted to go for a full true loop but didnt have the money and this just happened to be on sale so i figured ahh why not so i got it along with a few other gadgets. i was pretty happy with its performance but i wanted more which is why i did the mod. i will be going to a full loop as soon as my finances are stable... stupid economy is ruining my hobby

if you have any other questions or anything im more than happy to help you the best i can as i have torn my h-50 down to screws plastic and copper plate dozens of times for nothing more than S***S and giggles


----------



## Witchdoctor

New to this cooler,

WHat idol temps should I expect with 2600K at 3.4 / stock speeds

Room is 70F


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mache*


Thanks mate, but unfortunatly i dont have the same backplate. I may have the older versions









Would you know if Corsair make a 1155 backplate?

Cheers


1155 holes are the 1156 ones therefore they wont be making ANY changes at all


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mache*


Thanks mate, but unfortunatly i dont have the same backplate. I may have the older versions









Would you know if Corsair make a 1155 backplate?

Cheers


There's some discussion a few pages earlier in this thread about using a Xigmatek steel backplate since it's quite cheap if you can locate it on your side of the pond. Better than the stock Corsair one too, I'll probably pick one of these up at some point.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Witchdoctor*


New to this cooler,

WHat idol temps should I expect with 2600K at 3.4 / stock speeds

Room is 70F


Assuming you're talking about the H70, my room temp is similar (17-21C) and at idle before overclocking, it sat at around 23-24*C with fanspeeds low enough to barely be heard (using a fan controller). I overclocked to 4.6 (1.335v) and seeing around 31-34C (87.8-93.2F) at idle. At prime95 100% load I get up to 65-69C; in SC2 it doesn't break 45C. This is with Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-15 fans configured for exhaust at full speed. I think the stock Corsairs are actually better in terms of CFM/pressure but at the expense of a lot more noise. Or maybe that's just the illusion of more noise.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Witchdoctor;12112275*
> New to this cooler,
> 
> WHat idol temps should I expect with 2600K at 3.4 / stock speeds
> 
> Room is 70F


Should idle in the low 30's , low 20's with speedstep enabled .. 55-60c load .. rough estimation for you . These 32nm chips run pretty cool , 5ghz should be doable on a h70 and will load under 80c if you have good fans .


----------



## ATSi

I'm planning on buying one of these soon, I have a few questions though.

1.) How much cooler will it be then my 212+, I'm not expecting too much but is 4-5C cooler pushing it? I'll have it in a P/P config with a random CM 1200RPM fan.

2.)Would it be alright to have the config like this Exhaust Fan (Pulling air through) <- H50 Rad <- Intake Fan rather then Corsair's recommended Intake -> H50 rad -> Exhaust so that it draws in the air from the case then exhausts it out the back instead of exhausting the air inside the case?


----------



## Narsil

Hi everyone. Another noob here, but I will soon be joining this club!

Have some questions that my search-Fu has failed me, and I'm betting someone here knows the answers...

I am currently collecting the parts for a new system build, and will be getting either a H50 or H70.

I know they both use 6-32 diameter screws, but, I have a question which I've searched for but can't find an answer.

Does anyone know exactly how DEEP the screw holes are in the radiators ? (In other words, how far can a screw go into the rad before it bottoms-out ?)

And, is this hole-depth the same for both the H50 & the H70 ??

( I have some odd-sized fan shrouds / adaptors, so I want to be sure the screws I use won't be too long and damage the rad.)

Thanks very much in advance for any help !


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ATSi;12119260*
> I'm planning on buying one of these soon, I have a few questions though.
> 
> 1.) How much cooler will it be then my 212+, I'm not expecting too much but is 4-5C cooler pushing it? I'll have it in a P/P config with a random CM 1200RPM fan.
> 
> 2.)Would it be alright to have the config like this Exhaust Fan (Pulling air through) <- H50 Rad <- Intake Fan rather then Corsair's recommended Intake -> H50 rad -> Exhaust so that it draws in the air from the case then exhausts it out the back instead of exhausting the air inside the case?


1 - Not sure, as I have never used a 212+.

2 - It all depends on how well your case expels the hot air in it. If you have adequate airflow you can try it, and see what your temps are. If they seem to warm, try it as intake and see what the temps are then. The idea behind input is to be pulling cool air in from the outside so the radiator is cool. If you do it as exhaust, it's starting with warmer air from inside your case.


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Narsil;12119377*
> Does anyone know exactly how DEEP the screw holes are in the radiators ? (In other words, how far can a screw go into the rad before it bottoms-out ?)


lol I googled and your thread over at Corsair support forum shows up.







If I have to guesstimate then it would be 3/16 of an inch or less (probably a little less). I'll have my H70 back from RMA sometimes next week if you can wait that long...

or perhaps someone else can measure it for us.


----------



## Narsil

Cool, thanks much, reaper. That does help. I likely won't be ordering for a few weeks, so yeah, if you (or another nice member) ever have a spare second to measure, the intarwebs would be that much more complete with that knowledge! LOL!
I'm kinda suprised it isn't a "google-able" topic, since I've read lots of posts warning not to screw in too far or else you'll damage the rad.
Thanks again.


----------



## reaper~

^ You're welcome and just so you know (and won't make the same mistake I did), those screw holes on the H70 rad are easily stripped. That's the reason for my RMA. I emailed Corsair about it and they said to send it in. I was testing it with a bunch of different fans (got some new GTs in) and maybe that was the reason those screw hole threads got stripped.


----------



## seesee

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seesee*


just curious if i put a shroud on the pull side.. will it reduce the noise from the pulling fan?

HAFX GRATE : Pull :shroud: H70 : shroud







ush

I am using GT AP-15 and already install a shroud on the push side.. but the noise is still unbearable for me









May I should start getting rubber washer to reduce the noise =x


help? I lower their RPM using the Corsair silencer cap... but I can still hear a bit of noise =x


----------



## reaper~

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seesee*


help? I lower their RPM using the Corsair silencer cap... but I can still hear a bit of noise =x


^ Are you using the Corsair resistor on AP-15? It's better if you take it off and reduce the RPM (and dBA) through a fan controller instead. That resistor is designed to work with Corsair's fans and may cause some effect when using with a different set of fans. Just a thought.

Also get those rubber washers/fan mount to help reduce vibration.


----------



## seesee

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reaper~*


^ Are you using the Corsair resistor on AP-15? It's better if you take it off and reduce the RPM (and dBA) through a fan controller instead. That resistor is designed to work with Corsair's fans and may cause some effect when using with a different set of fans. Just a thought.

Also get those rubber washers/fan mount to help reduce vibration.


yes I'm using the corsair resistor on the fan, I doubt it will damage the fan since it the resistor is not feeling hot at all.

Doesn't the principle of using a resistor the same as a fan controller?


----------



## reaper~

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seesee*


yes I'm using the corsair resistor on the fan, I doubt it will damage the fan since it the resistor is not feeling hot at all.

Doesn't the principle of using a resistor the same as a fan controller?


I guess it's ok then. It's the same principle but different design/method of controlling voltage by linear or pulse width limiting, or current limiting, to result in less power through the fan motor windings, resulting in lower RPM


----------



## Oynky

I wanna join the club (h)
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...0_24-01-11.jpg

BTW, running it pushpull into my case right now, and as u can see i still use the given fan from Corsair at the front. Anyone knows a good fan to use on the H50 as replacement?
Also this is how my case looks right now, so you could see if any led fan would be nice.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...1_24-01-11.jpg


----------



## Jayce1971

Ordered my H70 and fan controller today from the egg. I have two Scythe Ultra Kaze 3K's that I will be using, along with a new fan controller, to try to cut down on some of the noise when not benchmarking or gaming. I'm thinking that these fans at full speed should drop the temps slightly more than the stock corsairs... maybe 2-3c lower than stock? Santa brought me a new Mushkin Joule 1000watt psu that I've been waiting to install... might as well do it all at once, and get everything routed right. Can't wait to redo the inside of the case. This'll be a ton of fun







Need to go back and read like the last 600 pages... I think this link was at like around 980 pages when I stumbled on it!!!


----------



## Witchdoctor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *liquoredonlife*


Assuming you're talking about the H70, my room temp is similar (17-21C) and at idle before overclocking, it sat at around 23-24*C with fanspeeds low enough to barely be heard (using a fan controller). I overclocked to 4.6 (1.335v) and seeing around 31-34C (87.8-93.2F) at idle. At prime95 100% load I get up to 65-69C; in SC2 it doesn't break 45C. This is with Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-15 fans configured for exhaust at full speed. I think the stock Corsairs are actually better in terms of CFM/pressure but at the expense of a lot more noise. Or maybe that's just the illusion of more noise.



Thank you guys for helping me out, I am for the most part a sub zero, But I wanted to build a portable gamer. so I can grab it and go. 
Roight now it is a hassle as I have to tear down everything to take my rig on safari....

The H70 seem like a great solution for me as I huge air cooler may want to move around and really stress the boards when driving around

The temps you guys are talking about are amost dead on for my temps

22C idol w/speedstep on and 33C idol at 4.533 MHz

1024 Prime load at those clocks tops out at 57C .....

Thanks for the help


----------



## Xavier1421




----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xavier1421;12126387*


You should flip the pix right side up so I don't have to crank my next to see them


----------



## alancsalt

It is the right way up/round. It's a Silverstone Raven.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;12127327*
> It is the right way up/round. It's a Silverstone Raven.


LOL

I know









but it is still not right side up, that case is not "normal"


----------



## L D4WG

Hey can anyone link me to alternative places to mount the H70 rad in a Cooler master HAF-X ?
Is it possible to put in the the front top fan area? the one that is empty when you first buy the HAF-X?


----------



## seesee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L D4WG;12127984*
> Hey can anyone link me to alternative places to mount the H70 rad in a Cooler master HAF-X ?
> Is it possible to put in the the front top fan area? the one that is empty when you first buy the HAF-X?


You can mount it on the front top fan area if you have H50

But for H70 there is either the back exhaust or the closest top exhaust









I seen someone mounting it on the 5.25 cage but not sure how he do it.


----------



## seesee

I am using H70 + 2 Gentle Typhoon

is there anyway to manage to speed of the fan because getting fan controllers?

possible to use the CPU fan slot by buying a special type of Y-splitter, so that I can use asus fan controller?


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seesee;12128499*
> I am using H70 + 2 Gentle Typhoon
> 
> is there anyway to manage to speed of the fan because getting fan controllers?
> 
> possible to use the CPU fan slot by buying a special type of Y-splitter, so that I can use asus fan controller?


Your H70 should have some with a Y that allowed you to connect two fans to one 3/4 pin motherboard connector and thus control it with your motherboard bios.

If your using two GT fans and two shrouds already unless you have the 5400rpm or others that are higher than 1850rpm GT's then you aren't going to reduce the noise that much. I sit about 5 foot from my computer with two AP-15 GT fans and even when everything is silent I struggle to even hear the fans the most I can hear is just a little sound of air movement but not actual fan noise(ie motor noise, propeller sounds). When I play a game, watch Hulu, watch Netflix or play music then I cannot hear any noise at all.

I dunno where your sitting in relationship to your tower but, you must really have sensitive hearing or there is something else causing the setup to be noisier than it should be. Maybe you just got a bad radiator and for some reason the it creates more noise than it should just having air pushed/pulled through it....it could be as simple as a few fins that didn't get baked onto the radiator pipes correctly and thus cause more noise.


----------



## hotstocks

I have been overclocking for 20 years and this one really stumps me. I recently changed my motherboard and cpu from an overclocked q9550 at 3.8ghz to an Asus P8p67 mobo with i2500k at 4.7ghz. My computer is completely intel burn test stable and prime stable at 1.27v (except at night, let me explain). If I prime during the day, while I am web browsing, playing games, etc. no problems ever, though I never used it more than 5 hrs. When I go to sleep I set up prime to run for 8-9 hrs and every morning my computer is turned completely off. So I bumped to 1.28v two nights ago, and then 1.29v last night and same thing. My instincts told me it would be the PSU, but it is a new Antec 650 with a UPS battery backup and it never uses more than 400 watts and any minor power fluctuaction is taken care of by the UPS backup. It actually uses LESS power because the overclocked q9550 was at 1.4v and I also removed a floppy drive and bay controller. But I did put in a Corsair H50 instead of a TRUE cooler (which uses a little more power). The rest of the system is geforce 580, Corsair Vengeance 8GB, creative Fatality sound xfi, and a few case fans. Also to note is the i2500k does 4700mhz at 1.27v and very cool (intel burn test 60's on realtemp), but no matter what I do, won't be stable at 4800mhz, and I won't go over 1.3625v to try. Thinking it was the psu (I have a dual monitor setup), I put prime running on high priority on one monitor and played Need for Speed Hot pursuit on the other monitor to totally stress out the CPU, Geforce 580, and PSU. Guess what, this killer system had me playing for hours at a pegged 60fps while priming! What a chip! So it is NOT the PSU, ram passes memtest and windows memory diagnostics. So I am baffled. Do you think this is some weird prime only teething problem with the Asus P8p67 pro motherboard? Some bios setting wrong? I am running the memory at 1T? Or something with the Corsair H50 after 8 hours of prime? Also all my voltage readings are perfect, slightly above spec on 12v, 5v, and 3.3v lines. Any help would be appreciated, I am completely baffled. It's a great system, maybe I should just not worry about prime turning my computer off after many hours? I would just be happier to see an error in prime or even a frozen or blue screen in the morning!


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seesee;12128470*
> I seen someone mounting it on the 5.25 cage but not sure how he do it.


I did this , I used a "L" bracket and mounted in the 5.25 cage area of my Lian-Li case. Was way better than the rear of the case.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotstocks;12128666*
> I have been overclocking for 20 years and this one really stumps me. I recently changed my motherboard and cpu from an overclocked q9550 at 3.8ghz to an Asus P8p67 mobo with i2500k at 4.7ghz. My computer is completely intel burn test stable and prime stable at 1.27v (except at night, let me explain). If I prime during the day, while I am web browsing, playing games, etc. no problems ever, though I never used it more than 5 hrs. When I go to sleep I set up prime to run for 8-9 hrs and every morning my computer is turned completely off. So I bumped to 1.28v two nights ago, and then 1.29v last night and same thing. My instincts told me it would be the PSU, but it is a new Antec 650 with a UPS battery backup and it never uses more than 400 watts and any minor power fluctuaction is taken care of by the UPS backup. It actually uses LESS power because the overclocked q9550 was at 1.4v and I also removed a floppy drive and bay controller. But I did put in a Corsair H50 instead of a TRUE cooler (which uses a little more power). The rest of the system is geforce 580, Corsair Vengeance 8GB, creative Fatality sound xfi, and a few case fans. Also to note is the i2500k does 4700mhz at 1.27v and very cool (intel burn test 60's on realtemp), but no matter what I do, won't be stable at 4800mhz, and I won't go over 1.3625v to try. Thinking it was the psu (I have a dual monitor setup), I put prime running on high priority on one monitor and played Need for Speed Hot pursuit on the other monitor to totally stress out the CPU, Geforce 580, and PSU. Guess what, this killer system had me playing for hours at a pegged 60fps while priming! What a chip! So it is NOT the PSU, ram passes memtest and windows memory diagnostics. So I am baffled. Do you think this is some weird prime only teething problem with the Asus P8p67 pro motherboard? Some bios setting wrong? I am running the memory at 1T? Or something with the Corsair H50 after 8 hours of prime? Also all my voltage readings are perfect, slightly above spec on 12v, 5v, and 3.3v lines. Any help would be appreciated, I am completely baffled. It's a great system, maybe I should just not worry about prime turning my computer off after many hours? I would just be happier to see an error in prime or even a frozen or blue screen in the morning!


Got any power saving turned on in bios? No C states active.
Set to "don't go to sleep"
I've had overclocks where unattended mobo goes to sleep and will not wake up. Needs reboot. Overclocks don't always work with any power saving enabled.
AFAIK they don't usually turn off if there is an error. They reboot at standard bios settings, so my thoughts are as above.


----------



## hotstocks

I heard with sandy bridge leave all those settings alone.
But it does have speedstep and C1E enabled. I heard to leave those on
and just let the turbo multiplier change do everything. At idle the cpu is
1600mhz and jumps to 4700mhz when in use. Should I leave speedstep and
disable C1E? I don't know the difference, but I was told to let sandy bridge
downclock and upclock on its own to keep heat and volts down?


----------



## alancsalt

Ah, I don't know then.

Miahallen 3 Step Overclocking Guide - Sandy Bridge - v0.1beta

Clunk.org.uk P67 Sandy Bridge Overclocking Guide For Beginners


----------



## hotstocks

Thanks. I am going to try tonight with 1.3v. Maybe something real stressfull happens after 4-5 hrs of prime? But that should just error prime out, freeze, or blue screen freeze. I don't get this just turning the computer off thing. Has to be some bios power saving thing or just bios teething pains. Using the 1503 beta (newest official Asus)


----------



## clubfoot

If it turns back on by shaking the mouse or hitting the space bar, it's fallen asleep. If you're using Windows 7, turn the power profile from Balanced to Performance and it shouldn't fall asleep again. BTW you can still use C1 and SpeedStep in Performance mode.


----------



## jptheron

Hi. I am pretty new to overclocking and have slowly started OCing my i7 950 to 3.6GHz. My peak workload temps are about 70C with a v-core of 1.16v. I tried pushing it to 3.8Ghz but the temps were then pushing on and just over 80C so I decided that was a bit risky.

I now tried to order an H70 Corsair from a local company (which they originally suggested). They then told me they are out of stock and suggest the H50.

My goal is to get a stable system at 4GHz with temps not exceeding 70-75C much.

Do you think the H50 would be suitable for this?

Thanks for the advice!


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jptheron;12134648*
> Hi. I am pretty new to overclocking and have slowly started OCing my i7 950 to 3.6GHz. My peak workload temps are about 70C with a v-core of 1.16v. I tried pushing it to 3.8Ghz but the temps were then pushing on and just over 80C so I decided that was a bit risky.
> 
> I now tried to order an H70 Corsair from a local company (which they originally suggested). They then told me they are out of stock and suggest the H50.
> 
> My goal is to get a stable system at 4GHz with temps not exceeding 70-75C much.
> 
> Do you think the H50 would be suitable for this?
> 
> Thanks for the advice!


Well my i7 875k @ 4.0 hits 64c on the hottest core. What Tim did you use? Are you just using the stock fan?


----------



## seesee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12128673*
> I did this , I used a "L" bracket and mounted in the 5.25 cage area of my Lian-Li case. Was way better than the rear of the case.


do you have any picture of this L bracket?


----------



## Joshwaa

I have the i7-2600k and an H70. I used AS5. Sure I have a good mount. I have Super Kaze 3000rpm fans. Here is my thing, I have the fans on a sythe controller. I can turns the fans off and for about 45seconds of running prime 95 they start to rise. How can the radiator have no air flow the processor OC at 4.7 and hitting 72C and the temps not rise for like 45sec with the fans off? I am baffled!


----------



## Joshwaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seesee;12128499*
> I am using H70 + 2 Gentle Typhoon
> 
> is there anyway to manage to speed of the fan because getting fan controllers?
> 
> possible to use the CPU fan slot by buying a special type of Y-splitter, so that I can use asus fan controller?


H70 comes with y splitter.


----------



## seesee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joshwaa;12135483*
> H70 comes with y splitter.


yes it does but i can't control the fan speed with it







via the CPU FAN on motherboard, using asus fan controller~


----------



## Joshwaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seesee;12135519*
> yes it does but i can't control the fan speed with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> via the CPU FAN on motherboard, using asus fan controller~


Sorry misunderstood.


----------



## andynolife

I currently have the Scythe Jyuni 1900rpm P/P on my H70.
Is it a worthwhile upgrade to AP-14? Ap-15 is out of the question because of the long wait.
Or the difference is within 1~2c even with a Ap-15?


----------



## nerdybeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seesee;12135519*
> yes it does but i can't control the fan speed with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> via the CPU FAN on motherboard, using asus fan controller~


You will not be able to control the fan speed through software as far as I know. The fans are 3-pin, meaning only a physical fan controller will be able to adjust the RPM. Only 4 pin fans can be controlled by on-board mobo/software features.


----------



## jptheron

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


Well my i7 875k @ 4.0 hits 64c on the hottest core. What Tim did you use? Are you just using the stock fan?


At the moment only using stock fan. Just want to know if its worthwhile to get the H50 or should I rather wait for the H70? (If price isn't an issue)


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jptheron;12140493*
> At the moment only using stock fan. Just want to know if its worthwhile to get the H50 or should I rather wait for the H70? (If price isn't an issue)


Well I don't have the H70 but from what ive seen its only good for 3c or 4c better then the H50, But im sure someone can let you know for sure


----------



## ilocos boy

pls. add me to the club, here the pic of my H50.....


----------



## luchog

I just set up my new system with an H70. Currently it's just running stock, OTB config as an exhaust out the back. I plan to upgrade the fans within the next week or two. I haven't decided between the Scythe GT-31s and the Akasa Vipers. The former have better CFM and static pressure; but the latter are quieter. Recommendations are welcome.

I also need to make some changes to the config, as it currently interferes with the 250mm fan on the side of my Thermaltake Armor case (I can close it, but just barely). I'm going to stick with the push/pull exhaust config; but I'm going to put one of the fans on the outside of the case, so I have more room inside (I've already checked, and this will be easy to do, there's already a big enough hole to fit the cable through, was used for the original case fan's bracket). Also plan on adding some gaskets to reduce vibration noise a bit and gain a marginal improvement to airflow.

I do have one question. I need to re-seat the water block/pump assembly, as the hoses interfere with my Corsair HyperX (can't center it over the RAM). I'll obviously have to clean it and re-apply the TIM. Since the contact surface is rather rough-finished, is there any point to lapping it, or is that just useless overkill?

I'll post pics of the before and after configs when I have them.


----------



## black!ce

ADD me


----------



## Xristo




----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luchog;12144315*
> I just set up my new system with an H70. Currently it's just running stock, OTB config as an exhaust out the back. I plan to upgrade the fans within the next week or two. I haven't decided between the Scythe GT-31s and the Akasa Vipers. The former have better CFM and static pressure; but the latter are quieter. Recommendations are welcome.
> 
> I also need to make some changes to the config, as it currently interferes with the 250mm fan on the side of my Thermaltake Armor case (I can close it, but just barely). I'm going to stick with the push/pull exhaust config; but I'm going to put one of the fans on the outside of the case, so I have more room inside (I've already checked, and this will be easy to do, there's already a big enough hole to fit the cable through, was used for the original case fan's bracket). Also plan on adding some gaskets to reduce vibration noise a bit and gain a marginal improvement to airflow.
> 
> I do have one question. I need to re-seat the water block/pump assembly, as the hoses interfere with my Corsair HyperX (can't center it over the RAM). I'll obviously have to clean it and re-apply the TIM. Since the contact surface is rather rough-finished, is there any point to lapping it, or is that just useless overkill?
> 
> I'll post pics of the before and after configs when I have them.


Flatness is variable on the Corsairs. Run a metal ruler's edge or similar over the heatsink surface looking for light between them. If you see too much light, then it is not flat and will probably benefit from lapping.


----------



## seesee

Xristo - just curious why did you put the shroud in front of the fan.. instead of in between the radiators?

anyone have photos of mounting H70 in the 5.25 cage of HAF-X?


----------



## Jayce1971

Doh!















H70 $15 rebate until 1-31-2011 through the egg. Just 2 days after I ordered. Just my luck. I did contact Corsair to beg and plead for an include.







 Hope I can get one, too.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seesee;12148515*
> Xristo - just curious why did you put the shroud in front of the fan.. instead of in between the radiators?
> 
> anyone have photos of mounting H70 in the 5.25 cage of HAF-X?


thats a good question lol , no reason really ... Looks cool i guess ..


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jayce1971*


Doh!





















H70 $15 rebate until 1-31-2011 through the egg. Just 2 days after I ordered. Just my luck







. I did contact Corsair to beg and plead for an include.














Hope I can get one, too.


Ooo, that reminds me, I need to get mine sent in asap.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seesee;12128499*
> I am using H70 + 2 Gentle Typhoon
> 
> is there anyway to manage to speed of the fan because getting fan controllers?
> 
> possible to use the CPU fan slot by buying a special type of Y-splitter, so that I can use asus fan controller?


I am waiting for my H70 to arrive for use in my Corsair 600T. I have been thinking about how to connect the fans and weather or not to replace them.

I decided to replace the fans with PWM fans (Sythe Slipstream 120PWM SY1225SL12H-P). This will allow me to connect the fans to the CPU 4-pin PWM connector and have the system control them. I use my fan controller for my case fans.

So, I made a splitter cable for PWM and drew a diagram of how to connect two fans to the CPU connector. The cable draws it's power from a 4 pin molex connector plugged into the PSU. The tac signal from one cooler fan (fan 1) goes to the main board, and the PWM signal from the main board goes to both of the fans. So, although the system does not detect the RPMs of both fans, it will control both fans with the PWM pulses. You could easily plug it into a 4 pin PWM fan controller if you prefer. Or, you could run a line from the tac pin of (fan 2) to your fan controller to keep your eye on the RPMs (actually, this is an awesome idea and I think I'll add another wire to my splitter).

I've attached the picture I drew (just a Paint picture, I don't have anything better to draw with, sorry).

Here is basically the same thing from newegg:

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119248


----------



## seesee

Mergatroid - sadly my Gentle typhoons are not PWM fans.. I am wondering if there is anyway to convert them to PWM fan with just add-ons and not installing a fan controller =x

Would there be any issues if I under-volt(silencer cap) the pull fan and leave the push fan @ full speed?


----------



## Magus2727

PWM - Pulse Width Modulation.... A non-PWM fan can not (with out a good knowledge in circuits) be made into a PWM fan. there is a fair amount of control that goes into it, that its most likely cheaper to buy a new fan that is PWM vs trying to make your fan into a PWM fan. Any add-on would just convert the PWM control to a voltage control.

There should be no issues under-volting a fan (most have a range from +7V to +14-18V) check your fan's specs though.


----------



## M0E

Is there a guide to extending the H70's stock tubing? I see it for the H50. Wondering if the difference in design and swivel leads on the pump would make for more of a challenge. Mine is on order and will be here by Monday.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:



Originally Posted by *M0E*


Is there a guide to extending the H70's stock tubing? I see it for the H50. Wondering if the difference in design and swivel leads on the pump would make for more of a challenge. Mine is on order and will be here by Monday.



it should be basically the same. In fact you might not even need to take the plastic cap off if the tubes are on barbs since the 70 has those tubes that come out the side I dont think you would have to. Either way it can be done.

There isnt really many mods for the 70 because the pump isnt inside the block like the 50. That being same they are basically the same thing just pump in diff spot.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ckybam3*


it should be basically the same. In fact you might not even need to take the plastic cap off if the tubes are on barbs since the 70 has those tubes that come out the side I dont think you would have to. Either way it can be done.

There isnt really many mods for the 70 because the pump isnt inside the block like the 50. That being same they are basically the same thing just pump in diff spot.



how is the pump not inside the block? the power wire goes to the block, so where is the pump?


----------



## clubfoot

The pump is in the block,...just smaller.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *clubfoot*


The pump is in the block,...just smaller.


that is what i thought.


----------



## Jayce1971

Disassembled the Azza Solano 1000. I'm glad it's a tall case and has room for a non-dexterous person like myself to work . (I hate to call myself clumsy)







. I decided to wait on installing the 1000watt psu, as I don't think I'm really drawing all that many amps with just a couple 8800gts' and a dual core, and the Rocketfish 700 watt psu hasn't ever failed to perform. Thinks I'll just keep it in for now, and save the other psu for a new build







Did some minor case mods. There's a resistor-switch for H-M-L fan speed built into the back of the case I relocated up about a couple inches. I took out the "honeycomb" rear fan bump that alot of cases seem to include as standard equipment.

Having a Dremel is a godsend when doing little mods like this. Mounted a Scythe UK3K on the outside of the case. Mounted another one blowing through the radiator out the back in push/pull. Hooked up as fan1/fan2 on my new fan controller. Used the Corsair fans as intakes on the front of case, doing supplemental VGA/memory cooling. Another UK3K on the bottom draws up cool air from under the case. A 210mm top of case blowing up, and a 230 side of case for VGA cooling finish the wind tunnel. I got everything back together... Had to mod the 230mm side fan and panel to close correctly, and went to reinstall hard drive.... the "L" shaped bracket on the sata port had busted off inside the sata cable





















I actually managed to superglue the bracket exactly where it had come off of, but for some reason, is reading as a bad boot disk. So, I'm on the laptop until my new hard drive arrives. Really wish I could afford a small SSD drive but they're selling for like 2bux a gig on ebay even!!







Anyhow, some pics...cant wait to see my temperature differences from the ol' Thermaltake R1....


----------



## seesee

Jayce1971 - just curious, why did you install one of your fan outside the casing?


----------



## RonB94GT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seesee;12167649*
> Jayce1971 - just curious, why did you install one of your fan outside the casing?


Don't know why he did. I put mine like that for more room in case.


----------



## Jayce1971

I checked the tubing for the H70 with the pull fan on the inside. Didn't really care for how I had to route the coolant lines. Also, have a shroud for the push fan that I haven't installed yet, and with all of that on the inside, would take up alot of room. So, I just put it on the back of the case.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seesee;12160052*
> Mergatroid - sadly my Gentle typhoons are not PWM fans.. I am wondering if there is anyway to convert them to PWM fan with just add-ons and not installing a fan controller =x
> 
> Would there be any issues if I under-volt(silencer cap) the pull fan and leave the push fan @ full speed?


If you have only 3 pin fans you're a little limited. You can use the fan headers on your main board, and at least the CPU header can control one fan. You could use a splitter but you'd have to make sure your CPU FAN header is rated higher than two of those typhoon fans. Check the current rating for the CPU FAN header on your main board. It should give you a number in Amps (A). If it's more than double the current rating for one of your typhoons then you can use a Y cable and connect both of them to the CPU FAN header. Make sure the Y cable does not have a tac line for both fans. If both fan lines have a tac wire, cut it off one of them.

Other than that, you COULD wire up a rheostat or potentiometer in series with the 12V line for BOTH fans (connect them to 4 pin molex from your PSU). This way you could use the potentiometer to control the speed of both fans. You could mount it to the top or front of your case (you'd have to drill a hole). You'd have to make sure your potentiometer can take the power you're putting through it. Personally I recommend using the Y cable to your CPU FAN header if your fans won't overload the header (I believe this is what Corsair recommends for the H70, but I don't know the current rating of their fans).

You could do this:

http://www.paqt.co.uk/docs/PaQ_PWM.pdf

Which would effectively turn your 3 wire fans into 4 wire, but it would cost about the same and be a lot easier to just get a fan controller or use the Y cable I mentioned earlier (or just purchase a couple of PWM fans).

As for the different speeds in a push pull setup. Sorry, I haven't tried it myself. I would assume (I hate that word) that the differing speeds would create some type of turbulence that would hinder the smooth flow of air through the rad. But, as I mentioned, I haven't tried it.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *M0E*


Is there a guide to extending the H70's stock tubing? I see it for the H50. Wondering if the difference in design and swivel leads on the pump would make for more of a challenge. Mine is on order and will be here by Monday.


Check this out:

http://www.electronicspub.com/articl...rint.php?id=23

Sweet....


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *M0E*


Is there a guide to extending the H70's stock tubing? I see it for the H50. Wondering if the difference in design and swivel leads on the pump would make for more of a challenge. Mine is on order and will be here by Monday.


Willhemmens (Guide) H50 Replace Tubes and Res Mod

There are links on the first page of this thread to posts about this, but this links to a separate thread at OCN about it.


----------



## xebian13b

I noticed the pump wiring has a 3 pin header, and all my other fan pins on my MB are currently in use. Would it be ok to connect the H50 pump to the power supply via 3 pin splitter?


----------



## kryptiq

I have no idea why those who favor custom WC loops say this performs almost the same as a high end AC. I am running 1.52V(more when I push for stability at 3.9+) and I haven't gone over 37C in 50 run IBT max tests or in P95 blend @ 12hrs. These people are clearly on some good drugs or mentally unstable.









May have to try modding mine soon since it will prepare me a bit more for a full WC loop which I plan on with my next full build.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kryptiq*


I have no idea why those who favor custom WC loops say this performs almost the same as a high end AC. I am running 1.52V(more when I push for stability at 3.9+) and I haven't gone over 37C in 50 run IBT max tests or in P95 blend @ 12hrs. These people are clearly on some good drugs or mentally unstable.









May have to try modding mine soon since it will prepare me a bit more for a full WC loop which I plan on with my next full build.


You gotta consider that your cpu is only an AMD tri-core, others have 4-6 cores, so it's not going to cool as well for them, especially when Intel chips go as high as 70-90C. The H50/70 is decent, but it's been proven to be beaten by the top-end air coolers, unless it's been modded. That is unfortunately a fact.

I also wonder if the CPU socket temp reported after unlocking cores is affected. I have load temps of about 36-38C with my fans on high, idle-normal usage around 25-27C. Even though my room is about 20C or lower, that seems way too good for an unmodded H50 with my overclock doesn't it?


----------



## JuniorDaisy

Here mine, will take a better picture after the cable mangement. lol


----------



## kryptiq

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


You gotta consider that your cpu is only an AMD tri-core, others have 4-6 cores, so it's not going to cool as well for them, especially when Intel chips go as high as 70-90C. The H50/70 is decent, but it's been proven to be beaten by the top-end air coolers, unless it's been modded. That is unfortunately a fact.

I also wonder if the CPU socket temp reported after unlocking cores is affected. I have load temps of about 36-38C with my fans on high, idle-normal usage around 25-27C. Even though my room is about 20C or lower, that seems way too good for an unmodded H50 with my overclock doesn't it?


Could be that you're only getting case temps. I tend to lock the 3rd core after confirming my OC's are stable so I can get accurate temps in OCCT. As for my temps, yeah seems a bit low compared to some people since I'm only tri-core. Might give that mod a shot later this year, maybe when I decide to order a swiftech res and some quality tubing.


----------



## thrasherht

The DH-14 is known to be better then the h50 and h70. Along with the megahalems being equal to an h70.

A custom loop is much better the both the h50 or h70. I couldn't get my 955 stable at anything above 3.7ghz with my h50 when i had it. But with my RS360 loop, im stable at 4ghz with a max load of 43c.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12175967*
> The DH-14 is known to be better then the h50 and h70. Along with the megahalems being equal to an h70.
> 
> A custom loop is much better the both the h50 or h70. I couldn't get my 955 stable at anything above 3.7ghz with my h50 when i had it. But with my RS360 loop, im stable at 4ghz with a max load of 43c.


I agree except that you don't need a custom loop. The RASA 750 RS360 complete watercooling kit costs $160.00 and is very good! The RX360 version is $199 and is spectacular! Includes Res and pump, LED, tubing, 360 mm rad three fans, grill covers, tubing, fittings and of course the RASA XSPC acetal CPU waterblock which is one of the top blocks out there. My 965 is running stable at 4.14 Ghz mx temp 42 C.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


I agree except that you don't need a custom loop. The RASA 750 RS360 complete watercooling kit costs $160.00 and is very good! The RX360 version is $199 and is spectacular! Includes Res and pump, LED, tubing, 360 mm rad three fans, grill covers, tubing, fittings and of course the RASA XSPC acetal CPU waterblock which is one of the top blocks out there. My 965 is running stable at 4.14 Ghz mx temp 42 C.










I love how you just told me how much a kit costs that i have currently installed in my computer.


----------



## KingLeo037

I have been searching but didn't see any threads... so sorry if this has been said already

any news why corsair dropped there watercooling business?


----------



## Spct

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KingLeo037*


I have been searching but didn't see any threads... so sorry if this has been said already

any news why corsair dropped there watercooling business?


Huh...?

http://www.corsair.com/cooling.html


----------



## KingLeo037

sorry talking about the coolit/corsair deal... coolit is not selling any more retail and is providing corsair all watercooling

KingLeo,

"During CES in Las Vegas couple of weeks ago, there was an announcement for a partnership which has developed between CoolIT Systems and Corsair.
CoolIT Systems be supplying Corsair with their liquid cooling products, which they will handle all facets of the retail marketing, service and support for these products under their brand name. Any questions concerning the Corsair products should be directed to Corsair.

As part of the partnership CoolIT Systems is backing away from the retail market. There are many resellers who still have the Vantage ALC is stock and will continue to offer them for sale. As you have noticed our website is changing as the CoolIT Shop does not show any of our products for retail sale"

going to be a vantage style Hxx announcement soon I heard


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KingLeo037*


I have been searching but didn't see any threads... so sorry if this has been said already

any news why corsair dropped there watercooling business?


where are you getting your source from?

If you watched any of the CES then you would note that they have another H50/H70 style cooler coming to the market very soon


----------



## KingLeo037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12182189*
> where are you getting your source from?
> 
> If you watched any of the CES then you would note that they have another H50/H70 style cooler coming to the market very soon


i think thats the vantage style i just mentioned


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KingLeo037*


i think thats the vantage style i just mentioned


I don't think I know, you didn't tell me anything.

I watched all the CES coverage I could get my hands on, I am informed and I just thought it was amazing and annoying that someone would say such a blank statement and then have nothing to back it up, and still sounds like you don't really know the whole story.


----------



## KingLeo037

trying to get the whole story without hearing "NDA" on re-branding. the quote i posted was from a coolit rep. when i asked about maestro i was pretty much told it was dead. They could not answer if there is a corsair alternative.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KingLeo037*


I have been searching but didn't see any threads... so sorry if this has been said already

any news why corsair dropped there watercooling business?


Corsair didn't. Coolit did. As i get it, Corsair is the controlling interest, so any Coolit projects they aren't interested in are "dead in the water"


----------



## thrasherht

Just thought i would share this h50 mod with the community.

I will update with temps vs a standard micro res and new tubing mod.

I did dual h50 rads with the stock h50 pump, and the pump from the rasa 750 water cooling kit. Gives much better flow rates, so i am going to see if that effects the performance of the water block. Because when i cut the h50 apart i noticed how low the flow rate of the water was when tested.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


Just thought i would share this h50 mod with the community.

I will update with temps vs a standard micro res and new tubing mod.

I did dual h50 rads with the stock h50 pump, and the pump from the rasa 750 water cooling kit. Gives much better flow rates, so i am going to see if that effects the performance of the water block. Because when i cut the h50 apart i noticed how low the flow rate of the water was when tested.










clean ur rad bro


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


Just thought i would share this h50 mod with the community.

I will update with temps vs a standard micro res and new tubing mod.

I did dual h50 rads with the stock h50 pump, and the pump from the rasa 750 water cooling kit. Gives much better flow rates, so i am going to see if that effects the performance of the water block. Because when i cut the h50 apart i noticed how low the flow rate of the water was when tested.










Cant wait, keep us updated


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckybam3;12184882*
> clean ur rad bro


That rad was just in the computer for a while and i just haven't gotten to it with the compressed air yet. no worries.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12185922*
> Cant wait, keep us updated


will do. Im hoping it will cool down my 6000+ enough that i can overclock it more. don't really need more cooling on my 955.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingLeo037;12182491*
> trying to get the whole story without hearing "NDA" on re-branding. the quote i posted was from a coolit rep. when i asked about maestro i was pretty much told it was dead. They could not answer if there is a corsair alternative.


So no H60 anymore?


----------



## mnorris12706

count me in


----------



## KingLeo037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin;12187346*
> So no H60 anymore?


no the H60 was the first coolit/corsair product.

I was looking for a vantage style with corsair link software


----------



## Armastitium

I put a H50 in and the fan header has 4 pins. My Corsair 600T has a fan controller connectors for 3 pin fan connections. Is it okay if I plug in that H50 fan into the fan controller with 3 pins or should I plug it into the motherboard chassis fan instead?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Armastitium;12189304*
> I put a H50 in and the fan header has 4 pins. My Corsair 600T has a fan controller connectors for 3 pin fan connections. Is it okay if I plug in that H50 fan into the fan controller with 3 pins or should I plug it into the motherboard chassis fan instead?


There should be no problem plugging it into your controller. The 4th pin on the fan is PWM. I believe the wire for PWM in a 4 pin connector is the blue one on the end (pin 1). Make sure the blue wire is not plugged in, the other 3 are tac (2), 12V (3) and GND (4). Depending on how you do it, you may need an adapter.


----------



## thrasherht

My H50 mod mocked up in the case ready to be finalized.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Very nice!


----------



## thrasherht

LOL, that is my secondary computer. I need a new motherboard for it.


----------



## Clairvoyant129

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kryptiq*


I have no idea why those who favor custom WC loops say this performs almost the same as a high end AC. I am running 1.52V(more when I push for stability at 3.9+) and I haven't gone over 37C in 50 run IBT max tests or in P95 blend @ 12hrs. These people are clearly on some good drugs or mentally unstable.









May have to try modding mine soon since it will prepare me a bit more for a full WC loop which I plan on with my next full build.


Because its a fact that D-14 is way better than H50/70.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:












At reference clock speeds and voltages, everything looks very boring indeed with the Corsair H70 falling between the NH D14 and the Coolit Vantage *by a single degree.* Now we have a reference ball park to play with, lets get the big three coolers into the overclocked environment. Core speed is increased to 4.53 ghz with a voltage increase of 0.25 over reference.











http://www.kitguru.net/components/co...d14-4-53ghz/4/

Someone forgot to tell the guy that wrote the above about that "well known fact".


----------



## zionic

I don't know if it's my computer or not, but I can't seem to get the members list to load to add myself


----------



## reaper~

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zionic*


I don't know if it's my computer or not, but I can't seem to get the members list to load to add myself










Seems like someone's been tampering with the spreadsheet. I reverted it back to an earlier point and added your name in there for you.

If anyone else don't see your name on the spreadsheet then just add yourself again.


----------



## Kokin

Re-added myself to the list.


----------



## thecyb0rg

Love my new H70, but i sure wish corsair would come out with a dual-rad option...


----------



## zionic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaper~;12194664*
> Seems like someone's been tampering with the spreadsheet. I reverted it back to an earlier point and added your name in there for you.
> 
> If anyone else don't see your name on the spreadsheet then just add yourself again.


Thanks much!


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Cyb0rg*


Love my new H70, but i sure wish corsair would come out with a dual-rad option...


AGREED! Not only that.. tubes that can be taken off and put back on with NO leaks! Then we can use it OUTSIDE the case! Brilliant eh?


----------



## reaper~

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zionic*


Thanks much!










You're welcome.


----------



## Kokin

So today my H50's pump started making a weird buzzing/rattling noise and upon looking it up, people suggested to tighten the block, "flick" the hoses, and to re-position the rad orientation of tubes being on top or bottom.

I tried tightening the block, but it didn't stop the noise and when I started flicking the tubes, the noise pretty much stopped. However, I hear an air bubble moving through the tubes every 10-15 seconds and it's bothering me.

Do you guys have any recommendations to get rid of that air bubble? I'm gonna leave my computer on overnight to see if it stops.

Edit: The air bubble sound stopped, but the buzzing has come back again, though not as often as before.


----------



## thecyb0rg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];12200380*
> AGREED! Not only that.. tubes that can be taken off and put back on with NO leaks! Then we can use it OUTSIDE the case! Brilliant eh?


To dream...


----------



## Munkypoo7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];12200380*
> AGREED! Not only that.. tubes that can be taken off and put back on with NO leaks! Then we can use it OUTSIDE the case! Brilliant eh?


Which would warrant user error, false RMA's and a larger hassle for Corsair? No thank you. If you want something with a dual rad and detachable, get a Rasa 240 and move on.

I rather keep the smaller footprint 120mm rad fully sealed.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

I just find it amazing that people buy these simple sealed units and then cut them up and turn them into something that they are not ever going to be, what a waste.

Just save your money and the headache and start it off right with a custom water cooling system. It will perform 2x better if not more and will allow you to do so much more.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12209896*
> I just find it amazing that people buy these simple sealed units and then cut them up and turn them into something that they are not ever going to be, what a waste.
> 
> Just save your money and the headache and start it off right with a custom water cooling system. It will perform 2x better if not more and will allow you to do so much more.


But it is fun. I mean anybody can do what they want. I understand what you are talking about.

I have a real water cooling setup, but I also have a modded H50 on my other computer.


----------



## XtachiX

^^^
trolling XD
i buy something to do whatever i wanna do with it, i pay for it, i use/abuse it, i'm satisfied
(provided that it didnt harm anyone)
that's my logic though
anyone agrees?


----------



## ls1chris

Just installed the h50 and using the stock corsair fan and stock rear can that was with my k62 case.But i am stuck on deciding what fans to go with for push pull.I dont want a overly loud system but would still like to have a very good cooling.right now i am about 29-33c idle but was looking at this fans any input would be appreciated.Also the fans will be powered off my PSU or fan controller as i will run close to max or close to it 24/7

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=25750:bf8ffddc03f14c64dd921911294f6f14

Also if i get this cooler master fans i was going to purchase this to go along with them
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=29693

or would one of these do a better job
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24748
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24749


----------



## Jayce1971

If you want a 240mm rad, just get one of these.

http://www.imacula.co.uk/exposure/co...ing-pc-upgrade


----------



## seesee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ls1chris;12210026*
> Just installed the h50 and using the stock corsair fan and stock rear can that was with my k62 case.But i am stuck on deciding what fans to go with for push pull.I dont want a overly loud system but would still like to have a very good cooling.right now i am about 29-33c idle but was looking at this fans any input would be appreciated.Also the fans will be powered off my PSU or fan controller as i will run close to max or close to it 24/7
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=25750:bf8ffddc03f14c64dd921911294f6f14
> 
> Also if i get this cooler master fans i was going to purchase this to go along with them
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=29693
> 
> or would one of these do a better job
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24748
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24749


if you want it to be quiet.. get the 1350rpm version, unless you wish to under volt the 1850rpm GTs.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seesee*


if you want it to be quiet.. get the 1350rpm version, unless you wish to under volt the 1850rpm GTs.


I have 1850 GT's and have them going full speed and don't even hear em. There have been a total of two people I have seen this entire thread that complained about AP-15 GT fans being too loud so ls1chris if you go with them you might try them without a controller first to see if they are tolerable.


----------



## Jyve

How someone could complain about the ap-15's is beyond me. One of the quietest 120mm fans you'll run across that move as much air. Don't regret them for a minute.


----------



## XtachiX

what do those fans compare to 400 fermi fans?
cuz at 100% its pretty quite for me =/
even though they sound like a vacuum cleaner


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XtachiX*


what do those fans compare to 400 fermi fans?
cuz at 100% its pretty quite for me =/
even though they sound like a vacuum cleaner


It would be the sound of silence compared to your GPU fans. I hear my GPU fans even though they are very low over my AP-15's the GT's if everything else is quiet I can hear a little bit of air movement no actual noise from the fans themselves.


----------



## seesee

I think the problem is not with the fan itself, just that for certain models of H70. When any fan pushes air into the radiator, it will create a distinct noise.

Actually it also depends on your casing and where you mount your radiator, there are quite a lot of factors but when you under volt your fan to 1350rpm, it generally solve this problem


----------



## liquoredonlife

I kind of regret buying the GT AP-15s especially using them on a fan controller considering how much they cost. They're too quiet and don't give me the auditory feedback of fans doing much. They'd be great case fans. I'm sure they're doing well and dandy; I just like being able to crank it up when **** is about to hit the fan. I've wired the stock H70 Corsair fan to the side and got a high speed Yate Loon 140 for the top fan. It's fun cranking those suckers up when needed, and when the GPU fan exceeds 46% it drowns them all out anyway.


----------



## luchog

My issue with the GT-15s is that, from my research, they don't really have sufficient static pressure to push enough air through the rad when overclocking.

I'm upgrading my H70 with Akasa Vipers:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11111/fan-709/Akasa_120mm_x_25mm_Viper_PWM_Fan_w_Hydro_Dynamic_Bearings_AK-FN059.html

Similar noise levels, and much better static pressure. I'm using the GT-15s as case fans instead.


----------



## Magus2727

The stock fan is something like 3.5mm H20 and 50 CFM.... so are these just to drop the noise?


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magus2727;12216774*
> The stock fan is something like 3.5mm H20 and 50 CFM.... so are these just to drop the noise?


In my case, yes. The Vipers have a static pressure and CFM (2.8 and 43 respectively) only a little below the stock fans; while having a much better sound profile.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magus2727;12216774*
> The stock fan is something like 3.5mm H20 and 50 CFM.... so are these just to drop the noise?


Scythe GT AP-15's for most give the same or better cooling than stock and yes reduce the noise by a ton compared to the stock H70 at 2000rpm.


----------



## nerdybeat

Hey all - I am about to upgrade the fans on my H70. I have been running the stock fans at the reduced speed setting since install. It keeps my idle temps fine, but on load while OC'd (with 1.35vcore) the temps get a bit toasty for my liking (upwards up 85-87C with ~65F ambient, after about 3+ hours)

I have been looking into the Gentle Typhoon AP-15s, as I have only heard good things about them. (I just got a 25$ amazon g/c also.. essentially buy one get one free if I go through amazon for the order)

My concerns:
The stock corsair fans on low setting are as loud as I would like to go.. preferably even more quiet. Are the AP-15s on 1850rpm about comparable to the sound level of corsair stock @ low setting?

Can anyone recommend any other fans for a low-sound build up? (Yate loons with a 5.25" bay fan controller to control when benching/OC?)I am only full load on testing my OC and benching, as I mainly just game and do mild video editing, so it rarely goes above 50-55C unless I am OC/benching.


----------



## M0E

That is a bit warm. I ran a 36 hour Prime run and my temp max was 66c. Im at a lower Vcore though.


----------



## reaper~

..So Corsair went with CoolIT (H60) and Antech partner up with Asetek instead (KÜHLER H2O 620).










Hope they make some improvement to the existing products and not just copy and paste. lol


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reaper~*


..So Corsair went with CoolIT (H60) and Antech partner up with Asetek instead (KÃœHLER H2O 620).










Hope they make some improvement to the existing products and not just copy and paste. lol


Those tubes look like the will come off with ease .. Thats just a h50 with a different logo


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


So today my H50's pump started making a weird buzzing/rattling noise and upon looking it up, people suggested to tighten the block, "flick" the hoses, and to re-position the rad orientation of tubes being on top or bottom.

I tried tightening the block, but it didn't stop the noise and when I started flicking the tubes, the noise pretty much stopped. However, I hear an air bubble moving through the tubes every 10-15 seconds and it's bothering me.

Do you guys have any recommendations to get rid of that air bubble? I'm gonna leave my computer on overnight to see if it stops.

Edit: The air bubble sound stopped, but the buzzing has come back again, though not as often as before.


Just wanted to report back that after running it for the whole night, it didn't stop the buzzing noise. However, after turning it off for about half a day and leaving it on overnight the next day, the noise disappeared. Haven't touched the tubes, rad nor block, so I'm guessing it was just an air bubble trying to fk with me. I'm just glad there's no more annoying buzzing noise anymore!


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;12230867*
> Those tubes look like the will come off with ease .. Thats just a h50 with a different logo


It looks like an H50 with different hoses, a different pump/block and possibly different mounting.


----------



## XtachiX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Carfanatic*


It looks like an H50 with different hoses, a different pump/block and possibly different mounting.


so that makes it not an h50
they all look alike anyways


----------



## thrasherht

no, it looks like an H70 pump and block with an H50 rad.


----------



## Coldplayer

I got a corsair H50 as i needed space for more ram/ram cooler and i went from a noctua NHU12P (1 fan) to the Corsair H50 push/pull. And my temps are about 4-5 degrees worse. I knew that the h50 wouldn't be that great but i though push pull at least it'd be able to keep up with my old noctua.
Are there any common installation mistakes or anything like that which would hinder the h50 performance?

Cheers

Also i seem to have got 2 retention brackets for am3 in the h50 package is there any difference between using

http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...Xb2oDnwTnQ&t=1
or

http://www.legitreviews.com/images/r...ir_h70_019.jpg


----------



## HiLuckyB

The H50 is $59.99 at bestbuy.com http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Corsair+...&skuId=9503771


----------



## seesee

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Coldplayer*


I got a corsair H50 as i needed space for more ram/ram cooler and i went from a noctua NHU12P (1 fan) to the Corsair H50 push/pull. And my temps are about 4-5 degrees worse. I knew that the h50 wouldn't be that great but i though push pull at least it'd be able to keep up with my old noctua.
Are there any common installation mistakes or anything like that which would hinder the h50 performance?

Cheers

Also i seem to have got 2 retention brackets for am3 in the h50 package is there any difference between using

http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...Xb2oDnwTnQ&t=1
or

http://www.legitreviews.com/images/r...ir_h70_019.jpg


common mistake: Not to tightening each screw in intervals.

maybe you wanna try lapping it and use a GT AP-15 to improve its performance.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


no, it looks like an H70 pump and block with an H50 rad.


agreed... Antec has a nice copy cat there.







Most likely junk like all their newer cases have been.

Didn't Corsair put a patient on those coolers?


----------



## Magus2727

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


agreed... Antec has a nice copy cat there.







Most likely junk like all their newer cases have been.

Didn't Corsair put a patient on those coolers?










Corsair "buys" the cooler from manufactures just like your PSU is not ever built or designed by the company... they buy it from a supplier add a few items to make it stand out (custom packaging) and then sell it under their name. Just like Major Kitchen appliances.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Corsair "buys" the cooler from manufactures just like your PSU is not ever built or designed by the company... they buy it from a supplier add a few items to make it stand out (custom packaging) and then sell it under their name. Just like Major Kitchen appliances.


well ya that is true, but I still figured that they would exclusive rights for selling it, I guess I just wouldn't think any one company could go in and buy 2000 unit throw their name on it and start selling the item.


----------



## Magus2727

perhaps they have different components on the inside... there are only so many practical ways to package a pump & block together... Different fluids, or metals used? different pin density?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12235220*
> well ya that is true, but I still figured that they would exclusive rights for selling it, I guess I just wouldn't think any one company could go in and buy 2000 unit throw their name on it and start selling the item.


They very well might have had rights, but their contract ran out. just like att use to have exclusive rights to the Iphone, but their contract ran out and now verizon has the iphone also.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magus2727;12235960*
> perhaps they have different components on the inside... there are only so many practical ways to package a pump & block together... Different fluids, or metals used? different pin density?


I the H50 doesn't actually have pins, it uses a fin setup that water gets pushed through. it results is good cooling under compact conditions and very high restriction.


----------



## Coldplayer

common mistake: Not to tightening each screw in intervals.

what do you mean?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coldplayer;12236552*
> common mistake: Not to tightening each screw in intervals.
> 
> what do you mean?


you have to tighten the screws going in a crisscross pattern, and some people don't do that.

you do them in small amounts going in a crisscross til everything is tight, don't tighten on single screw all at once.


----------



## XtachiX

btw guys
i wonder about this:
i've installed my h50 on my i7 950 o/c to 3.8 currently and running about 1.45v ht on
my temps at only 50% usage are:
80 83 79 72
this seems to be way too high right?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XtachiX*


btw guys
i wonder about this:
i've installed my h50 on my i7 950 o/c to 3.8 currently and running about 1.45v ht on
my temps at only 50% usage are:
80 83 79 72
this seems to be way too high right?


holy crap your voltages are high, drop your voltage to like 1.3 or something.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XtachiX*


btw guys
i wonder about this:
i've installed my h50 on my i7 950 o/c to 3.8 currently and running about 1.45v ht on
my temps at only 50% usage are:
80 83 79 72
this seems to be way too high right?


For that voltage, no. Your voltage is pretty high for that OC though, unless you've got a REALLY crappy chip.


----------



## XtachiX

i believe i have a REALLY crappy chip
i cant even get a stable oc @ 4.2ghz with 1.56vcore
i'll drop and see what happens
thanks all


----------



## amartolos

Add me ... i ve replaced the NH-c12p Se14 with the H70 .So pleased with the result.


----------



## imbehindyou123

I recently installed my Corsair H70 inside my Corsair 700D, all is well, other than two of my four cores read 22 and 28 Degrees C regardless of stress, load anything, heat sensor dead or? is it fixable?


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *imbehindyou123;12249376*
> I recently installed my Corsair H70 inside my Corsair 700D, all is well, other than two of my four cores read 22 and 28 Degrees C regardless of stress, load anything, heat sensor dead or? is it fixable?


what you using to monitor your temps? if a sensor is dead then there is no way you are going to fix it.


----------



## imbehindyou123

I've used realtemp and coretemp, and had a look in bios but that doesn't give individual core temps...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86;12249955*
> what you using to monitor your temps? if a sensor is dead then there is no way you are going to fix it.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *imbehindyou123;12250274*
> I've used realtemp and coretemp, and had a look in bios but that doesn't give individual core temps...


Ya I wish BIOS would give core temps, it just gives a CPU temp and it basically means nothing.

I would say your monitor is gone bad. but 2 of 4 will not be bad, my 4 cores stay really close to each other.


----------



## 100cotton

Just installed my new H50. It barely fits lol.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys, ive installed my h70 in my silverstone raven with the push/pull set up.. had to mount one of the fans on top of the case and shave down the cover abit, anyways i gotta say these stock fans are a pos imo, what is a good replacement fan, i dont really mind to much about sound, considering i run my gtx [email protected] 70% fan speed. the sites i shop at usually are newegg.ca, and tigerdirect.ca you help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## derickwm

Quick question..

Is the H70 really worth almost the doubled price of an H50?


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12252728*
> Hey guys, ive installed my h70 in my silverstone raven with the push/pull set up.. had to mount one of the fans on top of the case and shave down the cover abit, anyways i gotta say these stock fans are a pos imo, what is a good replacement fan, i dont really mind to much about sound, considering i run my gtx [email protected] 70% fan speed. the sites i shop at usually are newegg.ca, and tigerdirect.ca you help would be greatly appreciated.


Normally I'd recommend a couple of GT AP-15's but since you mentioned that you don't mind the noise then might as well go for Scythe UK3K. Good, inexpensive fan for your H70 rad.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm;12252759*
> Quick question..
> 
> Is the H70 really worth almost the doubled price of an H50?


For me, no. I switched from H50 to H70 (same fan configuration) and only saw 3 - 4 degree drop at best. If you already have an H50 then I wouldn't recommend you get an H70. Save your money and go for some high end air cooler or better yet, build your own custom loop.


----------



## Qu1ckset

whats the dBa difference compaired the stock fans to the scythe uk3k?


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaper~;12252789*
> For me, no. I switched from H50 to H70 (same fan configuration) and only saw 3 - 4 degree drop at best. If you already have an H50 then I wouldn't recommend you get an H70. Save your money and go for some high end air cooler or better yet, build your own custom loop.


So for somebody who doesn't do a whole lot of overclocking, maybe 4Ghz max in the future, max; and is currently just rockin a stock Intel heatsink an H50 would be good enough?

I'm contemplating the DH14 or a custom loop. I would much prefer to do a custom loop over everything, but I'll have to make that decision once I decide if I'll be upgrading GPU's within the next year or a different case.


----------



## Qu1ckset

hey can you send a link for those GT AP-15s please


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm;12252984*
> So for somebody who doesn't do a whole lot of overclocking, maybe 4Ghz max in the future, max; and is currently just rockin a stock Intel heatsink an H50 would be good enough?
> 
> I'm contemplating the DH14 or a custom loop. I would much prefer to do a custom loop over everything, but I'll have to make that decision once I decide if I'll be upgrading GPU's within the next year or a different case.


If you want to do a custom loop go with one of the XSPC Rasa kits, either the RS240 or the RS360. That will get you started on a custom water loop, and it performs amazingly. The rasa block that comes with the kit is performs within about 1 or 2c of the top end blocks like the EK supreme HF.


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm;12252984*
> So for somebody who doesn't do a whole lot of overclocking, maybe 4Ghz max in the future, max; and is currently just rockin a stock Intel heatsink an H50 would be good enough?


For 4GHz max, H50 can handle that just fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12253032*
> hey can you send a link for those GT AP-15s please


They seem to be out of stock at both Newegg.ca & Tigerdirect.ca. You'll have to look elsewhere. Try here. Their shipping to Canada isn't so bad.. or so I heard.


----------



## Flynny

I'm in!

















I need to get an extender cable for those wires.









Pretty lights.









Giant rad stuffed inside the smallish NZXT Lexa S.

Interesting note: While I was taking these pictures I noticed the 4 pin connector on the main 24pin motherboard power cable was disconnected! Somehow my computer was running perfectly stable without it. I have no idea when or how it was unplugged.


----------



## Qu1ckset

this is my tight fit


----------



## zionic

Tight fit, but it looks good. Love the pics, guys.


----------



## Qu1ckset

question should i connect the h70 fans to the cpu fan controller or to straight power?


----------



## zionic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12253364*
> question should i connect the h70 fans to the cpu fan controller or to straight power?


I have mine to a fan controller. I personally prefer them that way cause sometimes I need to turn them down (recording, wife is asleep, etc). It's up to you. If it's consistently overclocked, then it would be worth putting to straight power. I don't think it matters too much. The only thing I'd be sure to put to straight power is the H70 cooler 3-pin itself.

EDIT: Welcome to OCN, too.


----------



## Qu1ckset

ya at first stupid me put it in the fan control and when i put it to straight power i noticed a 5degree drop in temps.. man im happy it all fit in my raven tho i was scared at first when i got it, i looked all over the internet and only saw people with the h50 on there raven cases, lol.


----------



## zionic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12253433*
> ya at first stupid me put it in the fan control and when i put it to straight power i noticed a 5degree drop in temps.. man im happy it all fit in my raven tho i was scared at first when i got it, i looked all over the internet and only saw people with the h50 on there raven cases, lol.


Hahaha. Glad you got it in there!


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zionic;12253498*
> Hahaha. Glad you got it in there!


thats what she said.


----------



## Qu1ckset

quick questione so these ap-15s can they be both put on a single mobo cpu fan port or do i have to split them?


----------



## zionic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12254247*
> quick questione so these ap-15s can they be both put on a single mobo cpu fan port or do i have to split them?


It really depends on your motherboard and if it can handle the load. I have the Maximus III Gene and have two PWM fans on the CPU port (and four PWM fans to the board).


----------



## imbehindyou123

will the Pump in the H70 run on full power all the time as it's only a 3 pin molex if connected to the CPU 4 pin PWM fan connector?


----------



## itcrashed

Quote:



Originally Posted by *imbehindyou123*


will the Pump in the H70 run on full power all the time as it's only a 3 pin molex if connected to the CPU 4 pin PWM fan connector?


Yes


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *imbehindyou123*


will the Pump in the H70 run on full power all the time as it's only a 3 pin molex if connected to the CPU 4 pin PWM fan connector?


I like to run mine on my non-PWM 3-pin fan header, so if you have any of those, I recommend it since you need to run pump at full speed.


----------



## nerdybeat

~1400rpm for the pump is normal right?


----------



## alancsalt

yes


----------



## Jue

ive got the h70 installed on a i7950 @ 4.0 ghz idle the temps are around 50/43/36/40. Is it me or do these seem abit high? when im stressing in prime 95 I have yet to see the temps go over 81c. Could this be seated wrong or am i worrying too much?


----------



## [email protected]

No your temps are amazing. They are great for such a clock like that. Are you sure they are not idle temps? The load temps are more important and please provide pictures for proof or otherwise we think you're just a no good troll who has nothing better to do but crap a thread out of pure joy.


----------



## zionic

I'm new to watercooling and whatnot. Can someone tell me how to view my temps? Or download a program for it? PM me if needed.


----------



## Jue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];12260042*
> No your temps are amazing. They are great for such a clock like that. Are you sure they are not idle temps? The load temps are more important and please provide pictures for proof or otherwise we think you're just a no good troll who has nothing better to do but crap a thread out of pure joy.


Yes they are idle temps, When i run a stress test either prime 95 or OCCT for awhile the temps when it is on 100% load are mainly from the mid 75-80, it hardly passes 80 and if it does it just goes to 81 and basically drops back down into the high 70's. I was worried that there was something wrong as they seemed high, but if its the norm then that really is good news to my ears and saves me the hassle of re seating it again. Ive encountered no problems at all and have never crashed or bsod either, was just the temps I was worred about.

I did try for 4.2ghz using 1.35 vcore but that pushed me into about 82-84 I believe so I decided not to go that far.


----------



## imbehindyou123

I have a 4 pin molex to 3 pin molex if that'll do? at the moment it's on a non cpu 4 pin pwm and stay's full power, and it's running at roughly 1400 RPM

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


I like to run mine on my non-PWM 3-pin fan header, so if you have any of those, I recommend it since you need to run pump at full speed.


----------



## Jue

Quote:



Originally Posted by *imbehindyou123*


I have a 4 pin molex to 3 pin molex if that'll do? at the moment it's on a non cpu 4 pin pwm and stay's full power, and it's running at roughly 1400 RPM


Pretty sure it runs at full power on the CPU FAN header.


----------



## imbehindyou123

I thought it would, as it's only a 3 pin plug on the cpu block, but i was told that it would... who knows?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jue*


Pretty sure it runs at full power on the CPU FAN header.


----------



## somedudecro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zionic*


I'm new to watercooling and whatnot. Can someone tell me how to view my temps? Or download a program for it? PM me if needed.










iStat, if it's a hackintosh?

http://www.islayer.com/apps/istatpro/

or CPUID hardware monitor, real temp, or core temp for windows.


----------



## amartolos

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jue*


Yes they are idle temps, When i run a stress test either prime 95 or OCCT for awhile the temps when it is on 100% load are mainly from the mid 75-80, it hardly passes 80 and if it does it just goes to 81 and basically drops back down into the high 70's. I was worried that there was something wrong as they seemed high, but if its the norm then that really is good news to my ears and saves me the hassle of re seating it again. Ive encountered no problems at all and have never crashed or bsod either, was just the temps I was worred about.

I did try for 4.2ghz using 1.35 vcore but that pushed me into about 82-84 I believe so I decided not to go that far.



Same cpu/temps here.I am running my cpu at 4025(23x175) with 1.296 vcore and HT on.


----------



## zionic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *somedudecro*


iStat, if it's a hackintosh?

http://www.islayer.com/apps/istatpro/

or CPUID hardware monitor, real temp, or core temp for windows.


I have iStat for OS X, but I just meant for Windows.









Thank you! +rep


----------



## Qu1ckset

Speedfan


----------



## CDub07

about to install a H50 in my 922 with my 3 new blue LED Cooler Master fans i just bought today. My HAF is sick now. The H50 is kick @$$ also.


----------



## Mergatroid

Wow, only took 10 days but the H70 finally came in.

If any Canadian users out there are interested, the H70 is on sale at Memory Express for $79.99:

http://www.memoryexpress.com/Product...2%28ME%29.aspx

I installed the H70 in the top of the Corsair 600T case. I have it pushing air into the case, and two case fans behind it pulling air out.

I connected the Scythe PWM fans I ordered to the CPU header using the Y cable I made. This works great, and on my CPU/Board, even under load, it never ramps up the fans. Under full load the temp has not hit 50c yet. Previously using the Intel stock cooler my hottest core was hitting 71c. The motherboard is keeping the fans running at about 660RPM. Anything lower than 600 gives me a CPU fan error in BIOS.

Needless to say the thing is almost completely silent. I had to hack the fan mounting holes in the top of my case to get the cooler to clear my DIMMs, and I had to remove a rib from under the top grill/cover to allow it to fit over the slightly off-centre fan.

The bad news is, two of my core temp sensors have bit the dust. One of them on what was my hottest core (the one that was running at 71c under load). It's stuck at 45c now, and one more just hovers between 41c and 43c. The other two cores are in the low 30s at idle and mid 40s under load.

How's that expression go? If it ain't broke....don't fix it. That and Murphy's Law seem to have bit me in the rear. Oh well, I'm really getting the case ready for an eventual upgrade to an i7 system, so no big deal right?

Note, the top rear fan orientation has been changed to exhaust. Any warm air blown into the case should be removed by the two rear fans which are the stock fans that came with the H70. So, if I like I can really crank them with my fan controller.


----------



## Liranan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*


Wow, only took 10 days but the H70 finally came in.

If any Canadian users out there are interested, the H70 is on sale at Memory Express for $79.99:

http://www.memoryexpress.com/Product...2%28ME%29.aspx

I installed the H70 in the top of the Corsair 600T case. I have it pushing air into the case, and two case fans behind it pulling air out.

I connected the Scythe PWM fans I ordered to the CPU header using the Y cable I made. This works great, and on my CPU/Board, even under load, it never ramps up the fans. Under full load the temp has not hit 50c yet. Previously using the Intel stock cooler my hottest core was hitting 71c. The motherboard is keeping the fans running at about 660RPM. Anything lower than 600 gives me a CPU fan error in BIOS.

Needless to say the thing is almost completely silent. I had to hack the fan mounting holes in the top of my case to get the cooler to clear my DIMMs, and I had to remove a rib from under the top grill/cover to allow it to fit over the slightly off-centre fan.

The bad news is, two of my core temp sensors have bit the dust. One of them on what was my hottest core (the one that was running at 71c under load). It's stuck at 45c now, and one more just hovers between 41c and 43c. The other two cores are in the low 30s at idle and mid 40s under load.

How's that expression go? If it ain't broke....don't fix it. That and Murphy's Law seem to have bit me in the rear. Oh well, I'm really getting the case ready for an eventual upgrade to an i7 system, so no big deal right?

Note, the top rear fan orientation has been changed to exhaust. Any warm air blown into the case should be removed by the two rear fans which are the stock fans that came with the H70. So, if I like I can really crank them with my fan controller.


Your top fans are pulling air into the case?

Fill in your specs properly, please.


----------



## zionic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liranan;12265821*
> Your top fans are pulling air into the case?
> 
> Fill in your specs properly, please.


I have the same question. I think your best bet is exhaust. People have great results with exhaust (a lot of times better than intake) and heat rises... it's perfect for exhaust.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;12265433*
> Wow, only took 10 days but the H70 finally came in.
> 
> If any Canadian users out there are interested, the H70 is on sale at Memory Express for $79.99:
> 
> http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/PID-MX29992%28ME%29.aspx
> 
> I installed the H70 in the top of the Corsair 600T case. I have it pushing air into the case, and two case fans behind it pulling air out.
> 
> I connected the Scythe PWM fans I ordered to the CPU header using the Y cable I made. This works great, and on my CPU/Board, even under load, it never ramps up the fans. Under full load the temp has not hit 50c yet. Previously using the Intel stock cooler my hottest core was hitting 71c. The motherboard is keeping the fans running at about 660RPM. Anything lower than 600 gives me a CPU fan error in BIOS.
> 
> Needless to say the thing is almost completely silent. I had to hack the fan mounting holes in the top of my case to get the cooler to clear my DIMMs, and I had to remove a rib from under the top grill/cover to allow it to fit over the slightly off-centre fan.
> 
> The bad news is, two of my core temp sensors have bit the dust. One of them on what was my hottest core (the one that was running at 71c under load). It's stuck at 45c now, and one more just hovers between 41c and 43c. The other two cores are in the low 30s at idle and mid 40s under load.
> 
> How's that expression go? If it ain't broke....don't fix it. That and Murphy's Law seem to have bit me in the rear. Oh well, I'm really getting the case ready for an eventual upgrade to an i7 system, so no big deal right?
> 
> Note, the top rear fan orientation has been changed to exhaust. Any warm air blown into the case should be removed by the two rear fans which are the stock fans that came with the H70. So, if I like I can really crank them with my fan controller.


go page 1635, i had to mod my case also to fit the h70 on my raven had to shave off the inside of my top panel so the fan would fit ontop of my case


----------



## zionic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12266658*
> go page 1635, i had to mod my case also to fit the h70 on my raven had to shave off the inside of my top panel so the fan would fit ontop of my case


I'll make it even easier, here's a link!

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/612436-official-corsair-h50-h70-club-1635.html#post12253313


----------



## Liranan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zionic;12265847*
> I have the same question. I think your best bet is exhaust. People have great results with exhaust (a lot of times better than intake) and heat rises... it's perfect for exhaust.


He's going against the natural flow of air, which is odd. He should have the cooler drawing air in from the back and exhausting it at the top. Or at least have the cooler blowing air out at the top, he should see lower temperatures that way.

I have replaced the stock Corsair fans with Thermaltake TR-FDB-2000's. The push one is spinning at 2000, and the pull at 1300 RPM. My temperatures are the same but the cooler is slightly quieter.

I need to buy some GentleTyphoons because lately the noise has really started to bother me.

Edit: the temperature has risen and it's probably over 25C in the room. My CPU is reporting a temperature of over 50C (swings between 53 and 56). I'm not happy with this at all. Yesterday the pump was ticking and I'm wondering whether it's worn out somehow.

I wonder whether it's time to RMA it or not.


----------



## Qu1ckset

i just ordered two ap-15s off ebay today







, now i jus have to wait for the gtx 590 and hd 6990 to come to pick what ever ones better and my build is complete


----------



## zionic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liranan;12266730*
> He's going against the natural flow of air, which is odd. He should have the cooler drawing air in from the back and exhausting it at the top.
> 
> I have replaced the stock Corsair fans with Thermaltake TR-FDB-2000's. The push one is spinning at 2000, and the pull at 1300 RPM. My temperatures are the same but the cooler is slightly quieter.
> 
> I need to buy some GentleTyphoons because lately the noise has really started to bother me.


Weird, but I agree!


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *imbehindyou123;12261292*
> I thought it would, as it's only a 3 pin plug on the cpu block, but i was told that it would... who knows?


As long as it's running 1400ish RPM, then you can connect it to whatever can provide that power.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;12265433*
> How's that expression go? If it ain't broke....don't fix it. That and Murphy's Law seem to have bit me in the rear. Oh well, I'm really getting the case ready for an eventual upgrade to an i7 system, so no big deal right?
> 
> Note, the top rear fan orientation has been changed to exhaust. Any warm air blown into the case should be removed by the two rear fans which are the stock fans that came with the H70. So, if I like I can really crank them with my fan controller.


I'd suggest putting your H70 as exhaust instead of intake. As long as you put it on the top, your only option is exhaust. However, if you put your H70 on the rear, it can be intake or exhaust, depending if you can get cold air around the rear side of your tower.


----------



## onurb666

Hello All, im new here and have some tests to show !!!

I've changed the H70 from back to front and my temps are about ~5ºc lower.

The ambient temperature in my city are 30~33ºc. ( Brazil is hotter and not a best country for OC hehehe







)

My rig CFX5850

Now i have a GTX580



4.0ghz HT on @ 1,293v


4.1ghz HT on @ 1.336v



Sorry my bad english !!!


----------



## wildfan84

Hello there. U can easy add me 2







.


----------



## mam72

i was wondering could i mod the h50 to cool my gpu as well?









i know i would need extra radiators to deal with the added heat.


----------



## XtachiX

i dont think you need any extra radiators for the added heat,
what gpu are you using
even for a fermi card (which has a small heatsink inside) you wont need an extra radiator
best of luck to you

edit: i've seen it done before but i cant find the link
sorry


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mam72*


i was wondering could i mod the h50 to cool my gpu as well?









i know i would need extra radiators to deal with the added heat.


Just to blow the mind....










http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...-club-156.html


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;12270892*
> Just to blow the mind....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/436043-q9650-club-156.html


.......magnificent!

but why the corsair block when you have all that other goodness strapped on?


----------



## liljoejoe54

You can add me to the list. I got the H70.









I got it push/pull, pulling air from outside the rear of the case.


----------



## mam72

@alancsalt 
well its a bit over the top









@XtachiX
it was for one unlocked 6950.


----------



## CL3P20

Just finished 980x with H70..seems like its coping well so far. Completed 4hr load test with IBT using just over 9GB's of ram. Max load temp was 62c during testing.


----------



## Qu1ckset

@wildfan84 how did you mount your fan in 3.5" bays, and what size is it 140mm?? That give me an idea to replace my 3.5"covers with vented style covers and mount a high airflow fan.


----------



## XtachiX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mam72*


@alancsalt 
well its a bit over the top









@XtachiX
it was for one unlocked 6950.


even if its for an unlocked 6950, i dont think it would produce nearly as much heat as a 400 series fermi card XD
edit: oh crap, i miss-read your post, my mistake, you said to cool gpu "as well"
yes then extra radiator will be needed, besides the h50 wont last if its modded heavily like that


----------



## CDub07

Will push/pull net me double digital temp drop over stock or is it more a e-peen thing? I don't see it getting a whole lot better but I could be wrong.


----------



## Pheatton

How much can you bend the tubing on the H70? Its a pretty tight fit in my 902 and I want the logo on the block to be level.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *liljoejoe54*


You can add me to the list. I got the H70.









I got it push/pull, pulling air from outside the rear of the case.


lol i have the same ram but four of them dominator gt 2000mhz, and i have the rampage motherboard, mines the formula, and we both have h70


----------



## thecyb0rg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pheatton*


How much can you bend the tubing on the H70? Its a pretty tight fit in my 902 and I want the logo on the block to be level.


They're pretty flexible, albiet a bit stiff. A gentle 90 degrees in obtainable if needed. I know that after I attached the two Ultra Kaze 3000's to mine, it was quite a chore maneuvering it into position in the front drive bays of my Storm Scout with it already attached to CPU and motherboard. Needless to say, it didn't break or leak. But I wouldn't push it much further than that.


----------



## Pheatton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Cyb0rg*


They're pretty flexible, albiet a bit stiff. A gentle 90 degrees in obtainable if needed. I know that after I attached the two Ultra Kaze 3000's to mine, it was quite a chore maneuvering it into position in the front drive bays of my Storm Scout with it already attached to CPU and motherboard. Needless to say, it didn't break or leak. But I wouldn't push it much further than that.


Have a picture of your install?


----------



## thecyb0rg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pheatton*


Have a picture of your install?



Attachment 194160

It doesn't show the bend though. That was only when I was installing it with it already attached to the mobo -- makes it quite hard. As it sits now it's almost perfectly straight.

The slightly pivoting action of the barbs at the base of the H70 plate also help too.


----------



## zionic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pheatton*


How much can you bend the tubing on the H70? Its a pretty tight fit in my 902 and I want the logo on the block to be level.


I have the H50 and it's bent to 90 degrees just fine. Here's a few pics of my new install. I posted pics in the "OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery" but I guess forgot to show them here.


----------



## Pheatton

Wow ok my bend wont nearly be that much. So install the block first then the rad?

Im thinking thats the best method to get a good contact patch.


----------



## zionic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pheatton*


Wow ok my bend wont nearly be that much. So install the block first then the rad?

Im thinking thats the best method to get a good contact patch.


Yes, install the block first. It's almost a two person job. It would be easier to have someone hold the rad for you. Make sure to follow the instructions and screw the screws down on the block in intervals. Don't tighten one down all the way at first, give them a couple turns each until they're all secure. Be patient with it.


----------



## thecyb0rg

I find it easier to do the block first, that way you're free to move around to get it seated properly -- and that's important! And a helping hand certainly doesn't hurt. You don't want that heavy rad and fans to come crashing down into your mobo


----------



## zionic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Cyb0rg*


I find it easier to do the block first, that way you're free to move around to get it seated properly -- and that's important! And a helping hand certainly doesn't hurt. You don't want that heavy rad and fans to come crashing down into your mobo


This, this, this!


----------



## nerdybeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheatton;12274020*
> How much can you bend the tubing on the H70? Its a pretty tight fit in my 902 and I want the logo on the block to be level.


I was able to get mine in there without bending the tubes that much...



























I did have to chop off a bit of the side fan mount on the side panel...









I don't think I would ever mount a fan to my side panel anyways.. especially in a mid-tower case.

Lovin my temps in the 902 push/pull!!


----------



## Liranan

I need some help with my CPU temperature.

A few days ago the temperature here shot up from 10-15 to around 20C. When this happened I heard some ticking, opened the case and heard that the pump was ticking, as if there was water trapped somewhere. I shook the case but the ticking remained and my CPU temperatures have shot up to between 50 and 55 (the cores) with the CPU itself around 48.

I've replaced the stock paste with AS5, which made no difference. I put in the other lapped 955BE I have (mine isn't lapped) and it made no difference. I've replaced the fans of the H70 with two Thermalright 120 2000RPM fans. This has lowered my temperature slightly, whilst being quieter.

Because the temperatures were still too high I set everything to stock.
CPU Voltage 1.35 Speed 3.2GHz
Idle CPU 34 Cores 42
Load CPU 43-45 Cores 50+

Overclocked to 3.7 with 1.425V I get:
Idle 45 Cores 50
Load 48-50 Cores 55-60+

If I leave the PC running overnight, which I usually do because of BOINC and my downloads, I wake up to the PC having rebooted itself.

I have cleaned the H70 by dusting it and blowing out the dust, so, it's as clean as it gets.

The problem is that it's only 20C. In a month or two it'll be 30-35 and I won't be able to use the PC at all, as it'll shut down before it's loaded into Windows at stock. Before the winter, when I bought this H70, I didn't have these problems, the CPU never went over 45, and the cores over 50, with an ambient temperature of at least 35. Now that winter is coming to an end I'm experiencing these shut downs and odd overheating.

The fans are blowing hot air out the case, as I have set the H70 up as exhaust. I have two 12CM fans in my side panel blowing air into the case and don't have a fan at the top of the case. The pump is working, as I can feel water flowing through the pipes. There're no leaks as I've checked thoroughly, not that it's hard (this isn't my first water cooling kit) and I have actually had a radiator leak all over my video card.

Theories I have come up with for my overheating:
- The CPU has died on me and it's leaking massive amounts of heat (unlikely as both the lapped and the non-lapped have the same overheating problem)
- The motherboard is feeding the CPU too much voltage
- The H70 needs to be RMA'd because it's malfunctioning

I've included two screenshots of my temperatures. One is at stock speeds, the other at 3.7. AOD is reporting the CPU voltage incorrectly for some reason, CPU-Z is correct on the other hand.

Screenshots

My CPU has crept to 50 with the cores at 58.

Any help or advice would be most appreciated, because the only thing I can think of is RMAing the H70 when everything's back to normal here.


----------



## Qu1ckset

my tempatures are about the same or higher, i dont have no ticking noise tho, but come summer time im buy a ac for my room, cuz it will be to hot i think or id have to remove my overclock lol

Idle
cpu = 41-47 degrees
core 1 = 57
core 2 = 57
core 3 = 53
core 4 = 53

Load
Cpu = 51-55 Degrees
core 1 = 65
core 2 = 65
core 3 = 61
core 4 = 61


----------



## Mergatroid

I have found that if I torture my CPU enough the two stuck sensors start working. They will not register below 41c and 45c even from a cold boot, but they register for temps above that.

Here are a couple of picks of temps at stock speed, unloaded and loaded. I had to turn all my case fans down as low as they would go to get the temps high enough for the CPU FAN PWM control to kick in and increase the RPM on the two push-pull H70 fans (Scythe PWM fans).

I have gotten 2.8GHz working but my USB 3.0 card failed. I'll play around with it some more, but with my motherboard I'm pretty limited. I'd like to push it to 3.0GHz if I can, but I'll have to restrict the PCI bus to keep my USB 3.0 card working properly.


----------



## Liranan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12278834*
> my tempatures are about the same or higher, i dont have no ticking noise tho, but come summer time im buy a ac for my room, cuz it will be to hot i think or id have to remove my overclock lol
> 
> Idle
> cpu = 41-47 degrees
> core 1 = 57
> core 2 = 57
> core 3 = 53
> core 4 = 53
> 
> Load
> Cpu = 51-55 Degrees
> core 1 = 65
> core 2 = 65
> core 3 = 61
> core 4 = 61


You are comparing an i7 with a Phenom II.

Your CPU will go over 80-90 in summer with an H70?


----------



## XtachiX

ticking sound?
maybe you need an rma?
it could be the pump is loose from inside?
just my thoughts


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liranan;12279704*
> You are comparing an i7 with a Phenom II.
> 
> Your CPU will go over 80-90 in summer with an H70?


Temps of AMD and Intel are quite different I agree. Intel 1366 overclocked can do 80C stress testing on a hot day. More if anything is wrong.

If you are sure this ticking comes from the pump then RMA it could be, because as u say, that's too hot for the chip(s) you have.

You will have tried reseating pump, delinting the rad and all that, so the pump does appear the obvious culprit.


----------



## Liranan

The ticking sound has stopped. After I reseated it a few times the ticking ended but the high temps haven't.

Right now, the CPU is being used up to 50C. The temperature in the room is about 25C and the CPU is at 42 and the cores at 48 and this is at stock. The TRUE 120 Copper I had on this CPU is keeping the other 955 below 45 and that CPU is at 3.6.

Definitely time to RMA this thing. I'll need to argue with the fools I bought it off, because they're lazy and won't want to do it.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Can remove my name, last night I added a Swiftech GTZ to my custom loop


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


Can remove my name, last night I added a Swiftech GTZ to my custom loop


This is a thread where you add your own name, and I guess you just never added your name, because it is not there.


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


This is a thread where you add your own name, and I guess you just never added your name, because it is not there.










good, makes it easy then dont it


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickbaldwin86*


good, makes it easy then dont it


I put full water on, but still got the H50. I figure it brings a lot of ppls to water. What'd you get out of the changeover? 10C temp reduction?


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


I put full water on, but still got the H50. I figure it brings a lot of ppls to water. What'd you get out of the changeover? 10C temp reduction?


the H50 was bought because I was to poor over a year ago(when I built this i7) to do a full loop, so i bought that, cheap and cheap.
Plan was to do another full loop when I could

tis 21c in my room
Idle temps 35c (waited an hour before, load was 23c)
Max I have seen is 55c

I have been prim95 for over an hour and temps have not gone over 55c.
I have also run IBT and it didn't get it over 55c either

when I had the H50 it would reach 85c after 2 hours... I am sure this block will never let it get to 85c.

It also drops my temps down VErY quickly, turn off folding, IBT, Prim95 and the temps drop down to 30s in a snap, down where my H50 couldn't dream.

so yes I got the "10c" temp reduction and then some... plus this block only cost me $20 shipped for my already owned loop

I could also add that I got that ugly block, radiator and tubes removed from my system.


----------



## Pheatton

Got mine installed last night with help of my brother and his girlfriend. Went on pretty easy once you have more than one person helping.

Ill get some pics up today once its all back together.


----------



## Hogwasher

Added me to the H50


----------



## zionic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pheatton*


Got mine installed last night with help of my brother and his girlfriend. Went on pretty easy once you have more than one person helping.

Ill get some pics up today once its all back together.


Awesome! Another hand when installing those is a ton of help. Two extra hands is just awesome.









Get us pics, would love to see.


----------



## CDub07

When I opened the box I was freaking out because of all the mounting hardware but the only hard part for me was installing the cpu rentention holder. I thought it was a interlocking system when actually u line the clips of the retention clip and screw them down on to the slots on the pump. This is going to be my standard cpu cooler on any system I build for anyone from now on.


----------



## eatRAMEN

Can I join.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheatton;12283436*
> Got mine installed last night with help of my brother and his girlfriend. Went on pretty easy once you have more than one person helping.
> 
> Ill get some pics up today once its all back together.


Dont forget to change your system specs








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eatRAMEN;12289232*
> Can I join.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher;12283606*
> Added me to the H50


Sure, just pop your name on the spready on the first page


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666;12289294*
> Dont forget to change your system specs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sure, just pop your name on the spready on the first page


Don't think I've seen you posting here for awhile Sethy. Good to see.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;12289541*
> Don't think I've seen you posting here for awhile Sethy. Good to see.


I pop in every so often. Been busy on the folding and OCing threads









Im still loving the venerable H50... it has done me proud


----------



## Qu1ckset

As much as i love my h70, performance is not going to be good enough come summer time, so i think im going to upgrade to a water cooling loop.


----------



## alancsalt

If it isn't good enough for 3.7GHz in summer I'd be surprised. My i7-950 coped with 4.2 in summer with ambient above 30C with a H50. Are you sure it is properly installed, TIM good enough, done up evenly, and all that? Are your summer temps constantly above 35C or similar?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


If it isn't good enough for 3.7GHz in summer I'd be surprised. My i7-950 coped with 4.2 in summer with ambient above 30C with a H50. Are you sure it is properly installed, TIM good enough, done up evenly, and all that? Are your summer temps constantly above 35C or similar?


my temps range from 52-55, hottest ive seen it get do is 60degrees, and it is winter, it is abit warm in my apartment because i live on the 4th floor. so summer my temps are going to rise especially because i dont have ac lol.


----------



## seesee

hmm just curious i I am folding 24/7 @ 100% CPU and my temp is 70~74 degs.

Would this temp damage my CPU over time?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seesee*


hmm just curious i I am folding 24/7 @ 100% CPU and my temp is 70~74 degs.

Would this temp damage my CPU over time?


Fill in your system so we know what you have


----------



## seesee

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


Fill in your system so we know what you have










updated!

one more question, can I use TY 140 as a push fan for my H70?


----------



## SilverSS/SC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seesee*


updated!

one more question, can I use TY 140 as a push fan for my H70?


The TY 140 does mount to 120mm fan placements, but I think it would be a waste since the radiator is only designed for 120mm fans.

I have to re-seat my H70 I believe. Temps seem to high for where I'm at. 3.8ghz @ only 1.28v, and I'm at 57*C. I plan to re-seat using Shin Etsu G751. Hope it helps. I'd like to get to 4.0ghz or more with the H70.


----------



## Qu1ckset

there good basic entry level cooling kits, but thats why im going to w/c set up so not only can i overclock my cpu higher, but il be able to oc my gpu as well.


----------



## nerdybeat

In about ~20C ambients, I am hitting around 38-43C idle temps, and I can hit upwards to 80-85C after 3+ hours of prime95 torture. However, when I installed the H70 I am pretty sure I didn't get an optimal seal on the block, I am running the fans on the restricted ~1500rpm (due to my sound preferences), and my tower sits in a cubby-type slot in my desk limiting its air flow just a bit (could probably drop temps a tiny bit if I moved it out, which I am considering)

I am not too worried about those temps on load, mainly because I usually game and encode video, with occasional leisure photo editing. I don't stress my CPU that much in real-world usage. I am quite excited though, because I have 2x GT ap-15 fans on the way(possible fan controller too), and I will get a chance to re-seat the block with my own new ShinEtsu TIM. I am pretty sure the mixture of the new TIM/reseat and fan upgrades, I will net at least 4-5C drops on idle and up to 8-9C drops on load.

Does anyone think that 1.35V on my CPU is a bit high? I was thinking about testing a bit on a little bit lower to see if I see better temps/same stability.


----------



## seesee

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nerdybeat*


In about ~20C ambients, I am hitting around 38-43C idle temps, and I can hit upwards to 80-85C after 3+ hours of prime95 torture. However, when I installed the H70 I am pretty sure I didn't get an optimal seal on the block, and I am running the fans on the restricted ~1500rpm. (due to my sound preferences)

I am not too worried about those temps on load, mainly because I usually game and encode video, with occasional leisure photo editing. I don't stress my CPU that much in real-world usage. I am quite excited though, because I have 2x GT ap-15 fans on the way(possible fan controller too), and I will get a chance to re-seat the block with my own new ShinEtsu TIM. I am pretty sure the mixture of the new TIM/reseat and fan upgrades, I will net at least 4-5C drops on idle and up to 8-9C drops on load.

Does anyone think that 1.35V on my CPU is a bit high? I was thinking about testing a bit on a little bit lower to see if I see better temps/same stability.


a bit highly. i recommend you get the best clock @ 1.27 voltage. for me is 3.6ghz


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nerdybeat;12305941*
> In about ~20C ambients, I am hitting around 38-43C idle temps, and I can hit upwards to 80-85C after 3+ hours of prime95 torture. However, when I installed the H70 I am pretty sure I didn't get an optimal seal on the block, I am running the fans on the restricted ~1500rpm (due to my sound preferences), and my tower sits in a cubby-type slot in my desk limiting its air flow just a bit (could probably drop temps a tiny bit if I moved it out, which I am considering)
> 
> I am not too worried about those temps on load, mainly because I usually game and encode video, with occasional leisure photo editing. I don't stress my CPU that much in real-world usage. I am quite excited though, because I have 2x GT ap-15 fans on the way(possible fan controller too), and I will get a chance to re-seat the block with my own new ShinEtsu TIM. I am pretty sure the mixture of the new TIM/reseat and fan upgrades, I will net at least 4-5C drops on idle and up to 8-9C drops on load.
> 
> Does anyone think that 1.35V on my CPU is a bit high? I was thinking about testing a bit on a little bit lower to see if I see better temps/same stability.


I didn't keep 4.0GHz figures, but 4.2GHz was stable at 1.3125v for my setup.


----------



## pnkspdr

Here is an image of my setup:


----------



## ILOVEPOTtery

Anyone in here interested in custom metal shrouds? I could construct to your desired size, i.e. 120.1, 120.2.... 140.1. Standoff would be about 28mm to dial in the sweet spot and allow for anti-vibration gaskets. They would be made of fully welded aluminum or steel.

If there is enough interest, I'll make some models and prototypes. If I could get a volunteer to run some testing for me (I'm without an H50), then you could keep it as a gift.


----------



## EternalRest

I have two 140mm exhust fans at the top my case (Tempest evo). If I happen to get either the h50/h70, Should I be good if the fans on the h50/70 are install as an intake?


----------



## Kokin

EDIT: I added CFM and dBA headers into the Fan List Google spreadsheet. It's obvious what the column is, but it's more clarifying when labeled.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EternalRest*


I have two 140mm exhust fans at the top my case (Tempest evo). If I happen to get either the h50/h70, Should I be good if the fans on the h50/70 are install as an intake?


If you want lower CPU temps then install it as an intake, just as long as the rear of your case is getting fresh air. If it's stuck next to a wall or an enclosed space, all the heat from your PSU and GPU will be sucked in, causing higher temps. If it isn't getting much fresh air, then stick to exhaust.

Good thing with intake is that you're leaning more towards positive air pressure, meaning less dust.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin;12314280*
> Good thing with intake is that you're leaning more towards positive air pressure, meaning less dust.


All modern case designs are positive pressure even with the back being exhaust. A lot of setups don't benefit from going with rear intake because of other things like video cards and power supplies venting hot air right below where the H50/70 should be getting cooler air. Unless you switch other fans around or have big changes on CFM on your exhaust fans compared to your intake fans with front/side being intake and rear/top being exhaust you should still maintain a positive pressure case while sticking with the ideal cooling setup for all components in your case not just one component.

There was zero change in the temps of intake or exhaust when my H50 was at the rear of my case but it raised the temps of all my other components by almost 10C so not really worth it.

The best suggestion is to try both see what works best for your particular setup. Don't just look at the one temp of your CPU look at all temps of your video cards and HDD's and any motherboard temp sensors you have too. Keeping one item a few C cooler at best isn't worth raising the temps of everything else in your setup and causing undue stressing.


----------



## ls1chris

how do you think these fans would do for the h50.i am trying to find a fan that matches my color scheme of blue and black with better flow than the stocker h50 fans/
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835150115


----------



## Name Change

Got the H70 Friday, hardest thing ever to install lol.. Stupid metal things that go into the mobo back plate keep coming out even after the click.. I had to push in with screwdriver on them while tightening with another.. sigh what a pain..

Have it setup as exhaust, tried both ways this one works better lowers cpu temps a little and also mobo temps, have dual 140mm fans intaking air on top for it, 140mm side fan pulling excess air out.. also seems alot less noisy as exhausting as compared to intaking set up.. About 5c improvement over CM 212+ on idle but a good 8-10c on loads for me..

gonna try my CM R4-L2R-20AC 120MM Blue LED in next day or so to see if there any better or worse then stock push/pull.. Had 2 of them on my Cm 212+...


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pnkspdr*


Here is an image of my setup:










You know you can hide and route those cables from the hole to the header? Even tuck in the black wire. Sorry but it looks scary when it comes to your cable management. Also why are you making the fan as intake? You're fighting air in that case now with pressure like that. Make the fans set to exhaust.

Also you can mount that on top rear instead of above your video card, now all that heat is gonna travel to your H70 rad eventhough you set it as intake on that fan anyways. I bet your temps are a little awkward


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin;12314280*
> EDIT: I added CFM and dBA headers into the Fan List Google spreadsheet. It's obvious what the column is, but it's more clarifying when labeled.


Thanks for that - clarity is always good


----------



## Lareson

Recently got a Corsair H50 for my system. Currently using the stock fan config, due to space limitations in my case, but it works for me! Temps are about 25 degrees idling and about 48 under full load using the specs below. For the price, I'm very happy. Had to do a top mount setup cause there wasn't enough top clearance on the back fan panel for the radiator. It's a tight squeeze between the radiator and the RAM, but I can still add and remove modules without any problems. Now I just have to get a cover for the fan cause right now it's a finger hazard. Already drew blood!



















Planning on doing a bit more cable management when I get a new PSU and Radeon 6870 this summer. Currently have 2 -120mm Cooler Master fans on the side panel blowing air out and the stock AeroCool case fan on the bottom for better air flow through the cables. Also liking the way air is being sucked into my AeroCool Vs-9 case through the front bezel with the foam bay covers, causing less dust inhaled by the system.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lareson;12329030*
> Currently have 2 -120mm Cooler Master fans on the side panel blowing air out and the stock AeroCool case fan on the bottom for better air flow through the cables. Also liking the way air is being sucked into my AeroCool Vs-9 case through the front bezel with the foam bay covers, causing less dust inhaled by the system.


Your actually going to end up with more dust with that setup in the long run. Your running a negative pressure case meaning your blowing more air out of the case than you are into the case thus every little crack and crevice in the case is sucking in air and dust with it. You should have front/side/bottom as intake and back and top as exhaust to give you a positive pressure case and less dust in the long run.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carfanatic;12317125*
> All modern case designs are positive pressure even with the back being exhaust. A lot of setups don't benefit from going with rear intake because of other things like video cards and power supplies venting hot air right below where the H50/70 should be getting cooler air. Unless you switch other fans around or have big changes on CFM on your exhaust fans compared to your intake fans with front/side being intake and rear/top being exhaust you should still maintain a positive pressure case while sticking with the ideal cooling setup for all components in your case not just one component.
> 
> There was zero change in the temps of intake or exhaust when my H50 was at the rear of my case but it raised the temps of all my other components by almost 10C so not really worth it.
> 
> The best suggestion is to try both see what works best for your particular setup. Don't just look at the one temp of your CPU look at all temps of your video cards and HDD's and any motherboard temp sensors you have too. Keeping one item a few C cooler at best isn't worth raising the temps of everything else in your setup and causing undue stressing.


Yes, yes. I think this might be the third time you've told the same exact thing to me.

In my case (and my actual case







), I didn't have any temp differences whether I was doing intake/exhaust, aside from CPU temps. I *DO* keep check of all my components and there were no significant changes in my temps. My northbridge, motherboard, HDD, GPU temps were exactly the same as they were when I was doing exhaust. In fact, I actually get even better temps as intake when I open my window (literally 4-5 inches from the rear fan) and turn my fans up to 2000RPM vs my usual 1000RPM, when compared to exhaust @ 2000RPM. For me, direct cold air going through the hot rad is much better than my intake fans sucking in slightly warm ambient room air.

Also, keep in mind I have an Antec 902, so it will definitely have negative air pressure when my rear is an exhaust and my 200mm top fan is higher than the low setting, even with 3 tricools as intakes. I've tested it out with a tissue on my PSU vents and open PCI-E slots, so please don't tell me otherwise.


----------



## seesee

I think HAF-X might have negative air flow, if you install all the fan in the proper place.

Intake - 200mm x 2 (sidepanel and front)
Exhaust - 200mm x 2 ( top 2) and 140mm exhaust

Not to mention the exhaust from PSU and GFX


----------



## SilverFire

Hey everyone, need some advice here.

I have a whole nice set of parts coming in, including an H70.

I have two cases I can put it in.

The first one is an NZXT EVO Beta. I was thinking of using it for the possibility of top mounting the radiator to one of the fan mounts there.

My second choice is my Mystique 632s. That case gives me more room to work with, and I can mount it to the rear exhaust.

Any advice from those of you that have either case?


----------



## Lareson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carfanatic;12329520*
> Your actually going to end up with more dust with that setup in the long run. Your running a negative pressure case meaning your blowing more air out of the case than you are into the case thus every little crack and crevice in the case is sucking in air and dust with it. You should have front/side/bottom as intake and back and top as exhaust to give you a positive pressure case and less dust in the long run.


I've been debating whether or not to move the top fan on my side panel to the back as they're all plugged directly into the motherboard, but now I might as well move it to the back so I don't have to keep unplugging that one. Also the reason why I have them both going out is because they make a loud whirring sound when they're set as intake. I'm hoping it won't make that sound when I move it to the back panel and set it to intake.

The bottom fan on my side panel is fine as that at least is sucking the hot air out from my 9800.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilverFire;12334901*
> Hey everyone, need some advice here.
> 
> I have a whole nice set of parts coming in, including an H70.
> 
> I have two cases I can put it in.
> 
> The first one is an NZXT EVO Beta. I was thinking of using it for the possibility of top mounting the radiator to one of the fan mounts there.
> 
> My second choice is my Mystique 632s. That case gives me more room to work with, and I can mount it to the rear exhaust.
> 
> Any advice from those of you that have either case?


rear exhaust gives more case real estate than does a top mounting. Top mounting sometimes gets very close the ram especially with the h70 since its larger and push pull. Unless the case has alot of room up top I say the one with the rear exhaust. Or take the case you like best and you can always do something like:

fan


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lareson;12336220*
> Also the reason why I have them both going out is because they make a loud whirring sound when they're set as intake. I'm hoping it won't make that sound when I move it to the back panel and set it to intake.


Does the side panel have a grate/cover over where you attach the fans? My latest build just had some slats that went over the fan for a guard and it made a similar noise I cut that out and put a metal fan guard over it and eliminated the noise completely. If you can take the fan off and it doesn't make the same noise then it is probably the grate/cover.


----------



## Mergatroid

I found a nice Gigabyte GA-X48-DS4 motherboard and another Radeon HD4870 exactly the same as the one I have. So, I transferred my CPU, video card and memory to the new board, and installed it all in my Corsair 600T. Threw in a Corsair AX750 PSU as well.

Wow, the temps have all gone up from low 30c to high 30c on all the cores. (from <> 32 to <> 37). The case temp has increased from a best of about 27c to a best of about 31c with all the fans cranked, and the H70 fans running at 1170 RPM, I noticed the Gigabyte board runs the fans faster than the ASUS board did, even from boot, by about 100RPM and increases the RPM faster in response to temperature increases. I'm going to torture it this weekend and see how high the temps will go.

I removed one hard drive rack and added a fan to the remaining rack to try and help move the air. The flow is surprisingly good considering half of it is blocked by the side of the hard drive rack. Only makes a couple of degrees difference on the hard drive when I have it cranked up though. Will be experimenting with the air flow direction on my H70. Currently it is pulling in with two fans directly behind it pulling out. Next week I'm going to reverse them and see if it makes any difference. I believe if I make it push out it will create negative pressure, which I don't want. Also considering a hole in the side with a grill and another 200mm fan pulling in.


----------



## Sandvich

Hey guys i just installed the h50 and i was wondering if my temps are alright (everythings on stock and the h50 is set as intake)

Idle 35 Degrees Celsius

Load 50 Degrees Celsius

Temp in my room is like 25 Degrees Celcius


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sandvich*


Hey guys i just installed the h50 and i was wondering if my temps are alright (everythings on stock and the h50 is set as intake)

Idle 35 Degrees Celsius

Load 50 Degrees Celsius

Temp in my room is like 25 Degrees Celcius


Idle is good, but your load temps seem a bit on the high side for just stock settings (assuming it's 3.2ghz with 1.35v). I had my 955 C2 with 3.8ghz 1.45v load at 45/46C back when I had it.

Here are some questions so we can understand better:

Do you have it as intake or exhaust?
Is your pump running at it's full 1400RPM all the time?
Do you have the stock fan as push or as pull or do you have two fans on push/pull?
Did you use the stock TIM the H50 came with or used your own?
Did you tighten the block slightly on each corner instead of tightening it all the way in one corner?


----------



## Sandvich

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


Idle is good, but your load temps seem a bit on the high side for just stock settings (assuming it's 3.2ghz with 1.35v). I had my 955 C2 with 3.8ghz 1.45v load at 45/46C back when I had it.

Here are some questions so we can understand better:

Do you have it as intake or exhaust?
Is your pump running at it's full 1400RPM all the time?
Do you have the stock fan as push or as pull or do you have two fans on push/pull?
Did you use the stock TIM the H50 came with or used your own?
Did you tighten the block slightly on each corner instead of tightening it all the way in one corner?


1.Its set as intake
2.yep 
3.stock fan push
4.stock TIM
5.yep

You said that 1.35v is the stock settings for 955 but on coretemp mine says 1.400v i havent overclocked or changed anything tho


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sandvich*


1.Its set as intake
2.yep 
3.stock fan push
4.stock TIM
5.yep

You said that 1.35v is the stock settings for 955 but on coretemp mine says 1.400v i havent overclocked or changed anything tho


Ah yeah, the newer C3 chips use 1.4v instead of 1.35v as stock voltage. Everything seems to be in check, though your load temps are still a bit high, though acceptable. If you're going to be overclocking, just try not to pass 55C for your core temps, as anything past that gets close to the max safe thermal limit of the chip (62C CPU or 59C core temps).

If you have your own tube of TIM, it's worth a try remounting the block, but if you're happy with your temps, then just keep things the way they are.


----------



## Name Change

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SilverFire*


Hey everyone, need some advice here.

I have a whole nice set of parts coming in, including an H70.

I have two cases I can put it in.

The first one is an NZXT EVO Beta. I was thinking of using it for the possibility of top mounting the radiator to one of the fan mounts there.

My second choice is my Mystique 632s. That case gives me more room to work with, and I can mount it to the rear exhaust.

Any advice from those of you that have either case?



The evo looks like a nice case, lots of fans.. I think u can rear mount it...


----------



## Prescott-King

theres mine


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prescott-King;12344786*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> theres mine


what are those things between the h50 and the fans?? spacers?


----------



## Prescott-King

those are shrouds...


----------



## Qu1ckset

so is this needed or??


----------



## Prescott-King

well they aren't needed but for better air flow and a couple drop in temps they good.


----------



## zionic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Prescott-King*


those are shrouds...


All I see is 4 fans and a radiator... I don't see shrouds.


----------



## Prescott-King

the shrouds have red led's in them...


----------



## alancsalt

Eliminates dead air spot in front of fan centre/motor


----------



## Prescott-King

yep, exactly!


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Guess you can add me.

I have 2 120mm on mine in push/pull. I have mine sucking cool air from the outside blowing in though instead of using the warm air inside the case to blow out.


----------



## moonmanas

...


----------



## nerdybeat

yay new fans for my lovely H70!!!! (Gentle Typhoon AP-15s)
















Push/pull exhaust...
Reseated block with ShinEtsu x23 TIM.

I still get great temps with the low voltage adjusters from the H70 kit.. and these things are near silent. Next step will probably be a 5.25" fan controller!


----------



## Jayce1971

Finally got some reference temperatures to compare the H70 with. I will be doing more measurements to see what the best noise level/performance ratio is. Before the H70, I had a Thermaltake R1 heatsink/fan. Please keep in mind that I have 2 Kaze3K fans push/pull on the rad. out the back of the case. Here are temperatures after running 1 hour of prime95, same multipliers, fsb, etc. Proc is a Brisbane 5800X2 65nm.

stock clock speed of 3.0Ghz
R1 temp 67c








H70 temp 40c









This makes me very comfortable that this was money well spent. I knew that this was going to be a better cooling solution, but wasn't expecting these results at all. Figured probably between 50-60c at full load. Now it's time to see how things can be pushed safely!


----------



## xILukasIx

To install the H70 in an Antec 1200 I would just have to remove one of the two back panel fans, right?
I'm thinking of buying one today and I just need to know if it will fit without too much hassle...

EDIT: Oh, and can I mount two Scythe Ultra Kaze 3k on it without any extra screws? Or do I have to buy special ones?

Regards,

Lukas


----------



## nerdybeat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xILukasIx*


To install the H70 in an Antec 1200 I would just have to remove one of the two back panel fans, right?
I'm thinking of buying one today and I just need to know if it will fit without too much hassle...

EDIT: Oh, and can I mount two Scythe Ultra Kaze 3k on it without any extra screws? Or do I have to buy special ones?

Regards,

Lukas


Yes, you can mount it with no real problems (that I have seen) in the Antec 1200 case. You will take off one of the rear fans, and you will be able to install your Ultra Kaze fans with no additional mounting screws or parts needed. You will even be able to use the voltage restrictors included with the H70.

Search "Antec 1200" in this thread, and I am sure you will find a whole lot of detailed pics with them installed. It fit just right in my Antec 902 (mid tower) with only minor mods needed.

Good luck and enjoy!


----------



## xILukasIx

Hmmm, I guess you don't know that the Ultra Kazes are thicker than the normal fans...
The screws included in the package won't let me put them on the radiator


----------



## nerdybeat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xILukasIx*


Hmmm, I guess you don't know that the Ultra Kazes are thicker than the normal fans...
The screws included in the package won't let me put them on the radiator 


Ohhh right. Fail on my part for not actually looking up the fans.


----------



## Goss

oops


----------



## Goss

And here's my rig. Love it. 7th build in 16 years. The H50 really keeps temps down.
Check my specs.























Thermaltake Armor Case (Steel)
ULTRA LSP 750 PWR Supply
Asus M4A79T Deluxe MB
AMD Phenom II X4 965 OC'd w/Turbov @ 3570 MHz
Corsair H50 CPU cooler Push/Pull fan setup
4 Gigs RAM 2X2 G Skill Rip Jaws DDR3-1600 CL 9-9-9-24
Saphire HD 5750 OC'd w/CCC GPU CLK 825MHz, MEM CLK 1250MHZ
ACER H233H Monitor
Windows XP Home
OC'd CPU to 4047 02/02/11


----------



## xILukasIx

Count me in!
Corsair H70 with 2 Scythe Ultra KAZE 3000 in Push/Pull Configuration
(Amazingly loud at approximately 50dB LMAO)









(Windows open, it's cold outside, probably 18Â°C in my room at the time of the screenshot)









Pretty thick package








No cable management in this f'ing case








Going to buy a Corsair 700D in a month or two.

CPU idles at about 33Â°C and goes to 56Â°C MAXIMUM on load (Intel Burn Test after 30min)

I tried using the resistors as suggested before, but they get way too hot for my taste, so the Scythe Ultra Kaze are both running at 3000RPM (28XX actually) at the moment. (noisy lol)
I will hook them up to my NZXT Sentry LX at some time, but it won't adjust the RPMs over 2400... Does anyone know why?

BTW: The screws used to mount the fans to the radiator are the ones from the Thermalright ultra-120 extreme, I pulled the springs off and put them back over the screw again, just not as far as they were before (You would have to push them back pretty hard to fix them again).
I only have 4 of these, that's why there are only 2 screws per fan.

PS: I mounted the radiator with the tubes on top in the picture, I changed it to have the tubes at the bottom.

Also, did any of you guys here water flowing in the radiator?
When I took it out of the packaging, I noticed the noise of water flowing through the tubes...
When the pump started the first time it sounded like there was quite a bit of air in there, but after a few seconds it was silent.

Regards,

Lukas


----------



## [email protected]

So few builders have really scary cable management.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];12368039*
> So few builders have really scary cable management.


Some people just don't care. It's not like bad cable management really blocks most of the airflow in a case anyhow, so why bother?

Mine is pretty organized, but I didn't go out of my way to buy extensions and sleeving just to make something (that only I would see) "pretty".


----------



## xILukasIx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];12368039*
> So few builders have really scary cable management.


I really hate my Antec 1200, absolutely crappy for good cable management...
(For me at least)
I really look forward to getting my Corsair 700D


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


Some people just don't care. It's not like bad cable management really blocks most of the airflow in a case anyhow, so why bother?

Mine is pretty organized, but I didn't go out of my way to buy extensions and sleeving just to make something (that only I would see) "pretty".


It has nothing to do with making it pretty. Airflow is pretty important anyways if you probably know.. any CABLE out of the WAY improves huge airflow. The Antec 1200 is SOOOO easy to have perfect cable management. What kind of idiot would do if he doesn't use the cable managment hole let along plugging in the atx connector when he can just hide it with a extension to reach to the far top atx plug? Provides a safe clean look and not only that.. it's there for a reason.


----------



## msi power

im running the h70 its great! it all sealed no mess install why take a chance on your computer getting wet???????


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


. any CABLE out of the WAY improves huge airflow.


Do you know of any testing or review on this that demonstrates the difference?


----------



## gillotte

hi im a hydro h50 owner forgot to join this group sorry lol. i can attest to intake being cooler than exhaust though. i installed my new scythe kaze on the rad thinking i had it in exhaust but it was intake. the funny thing is it was back of case then rad then fan which i would have thought would be less efficient in cooling since it was just sucking in air which i figure is less cfm than it could push though.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


Airflow is pretty important anyways if you probably know.. any CABLE out of the WAY improves huge airflow.


Isn't it strange that when I first built my rig and didn't do proper cable management (had all my cables out in then open and not hidden through the back), it had the same *EXACT* temps as when I did hide most of my cables through the back? I didn't even see a 1C difference.









Airflow works by pressure going through the case. Whether or not cables are "blocking" the air passages or fans, the case fans are still going to be sending the same amount of air pressure in or out of the case.

Cable management is almost purely aesthetics. Unless you've only got 1 or 2 case fans, I doubt messy cables will really affect the airflow through your case.

If you've got proof that messy cables does affect temps/airflow, then I will acknowledge this myth of cable management that people keep rambling about.


----------



## [email protected]

Well i don't bloody care what you think. Temps were different with my cables hidden. Small cases and big cases have differences. Small cases have great temps cuz of small airflow pressure when it comes to full towers they get BIG AIR flow and temps both are different.Give it a rest on the subject.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


Well i don't bloody care what you think. Temps were different with my cables hidden. Small cases and big cases have differences. Small cases have great temps cuz of small airflow pressure when it comes to full towers they get BIG AIR flow and temps both are different.Give it a rest on the subject.


You should know better than to make claims on OCN without proof. If you look at all the Intel vs AMD or AMD vs Nvidia threads you will learn that people without proof are easily bashed and flamed.

Regarding what you said though, I always thought it was the other way around. That the full towers would perform better than mid-towers since full towers usually have more fans and have more volume. I could be wrong here, but it seems to make sense to me. If anyone could enlighten me on this I would appreciate it.


----------



## gillotte

well i have to say it depends how many cables there are, where they are, and fans to. my last case way the layout was pretty much all my cables were in 1 spot. sure i had front fans and side fans but the front fans the cables did block alot of space thus cutting down air flow. anything in the way will reduce air flow to a degree though how much of a effect that will have on cooling is another matter. a very simple test..get a fan and let it blow on you unobstructed. then put something in the way and depending how big that is or how much blockage there is, youll either pretty much feel the same cooling before or itll feel less.


----------



## [email protected]

Nobody is gonna listen to you newbie







Welcome to OCN. Trust me and visit here..

http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...bles-here.html

Read EVERY thread.


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


Nobody is gonna listen to you newbie







Welcome to OCN. Trust me and visit here..

http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...bles-here.html

Read EVERY thread.


Just finished reading that thread no mention of any drastic temp differences because of their cable management; none that done any real testing of good vs bad management and temps.

I have been building, repairing working with and on computers since the early 80's. The only time I worry about where cables are in builds is when there is a big window in the case just so it looks good and clean for the customer. Unless you string your cables up and tie them to your fans or purposely try to use them to block fans airflow you aren't going to really change the temps with bad cable management. As long as your cables aren't stuck in your fans slowing their rpm's then your still putting the same amount of air in and out of your case.

In the end as long as you maintain a positive pressure case(more air in than out) you will end up with the same temps regardless of where your wires are.

Cable management = pure aesthetics

Simple as that.

Calling people names only serves to invalidate anything you say and is not welcomed here or any civil forum site.


----------



## black06g85

h50 owner here, runnin a q9550 @4.037 ghz evga 790i ftw motherboard.

noticed a big drop in temps adding a second fan to it, now running 2 120mm push pull setup, dropped 9c normal loads.
need to redo thermal paste, as I lost my extra stuff before I swapped motherboards (didn't realize lol).
right now hit 66c peak (just touches it) after about an hour on prime95 usually drops right back to 59c still under 100% load though, idle is 35-37c across the cores w/1.32 vcore.
antec df30 case


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *black06g85*


h50 owner here, runnin a q9550 @4.037 ghz evga 790i ftw motherboard.

noticed a big drop in temps adding a second fan to it, now running 2 120mm push pull setup, dropped 9c normal loads.
need to redo thermal paste, as I lost my extra stuff before I swapped motherboards (didn't realize lol).
right now hit 66c peak (just touches it) after about an hour on prime95 usually drops right back to 59c still under 100% load though, idle is 35-37c across the cores w/1.32 vcore.
antec df30 case


Those are pretty decent temps for that oc/vcore. What kind of fans are you running with the H50?


----------



## Pheatton

Got my H70 installed over the weekend along with my Asus P6T6 WS Revolution and 6GBs of G.Skill Pie DDR3.

As for the temps and cable management, why dont you take a mass of tangled wires and through them in your case, close it up and run Prime95 for 12 hours and see what happens...


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


Nobody is gonna listen to you newbie







Welcome to OCN. Trust me and visit here..

http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...bles-here.html

Read EVERY thread.


There are over 1000 posts.

I am curious. Has anyone seen any comparison testing on cable management and airflow?


----------



## XtachiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;12386057*
> There are over 1000 posts.
> 
> I am curious. Has anyone seen any comparison testing on cable management and airflow?


yes its somewhere around here, but who feels like going through all those pages
it resulted in a few degrees drop since cables kinda made a restriction for the airflow in SMALL cases.


----------



## JedixJarf

If cables are in the way then air will not flow, lol pretty basic concept.


----------



## alancsalt

Yes, just interested in how much difference type data.


----------



## DOOOLY

Add me for H70 i sold my H50 to my friend and got the h70


----------



## Carfanatic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


Yes, just interested in how much difference type data.


I found it I read quite fast 400+ words a minute, so wanted to see this "proof" cable management is so key(sarcasm on) you have to have every cable out of the airflow path or you might blow your CPU and everything up......and I agree that 1C might totally and completely screw your whole setup and and it would be total catastrophic failure.(sarcasm off)

Cable management is for the most part just for aesthetics you might get a little bit better flow inside your case and lower temps on some things but 1C difference is hardly anything to worry about and definitely not worth calling someone names over.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JedixJarf;12389154*
> If cables are in the way then air will not flow, lol pretty basic concept.


EXACTLY. If you get it in the way you will create a bad air pressure spot for heat to circulate the wrong path. This is why it's very important to have clean air space to allow airflow path go where it's suppose to go.


----------



## h50tree

My wonderful semi pyscotic gf purchased an entire new rig around a chip I was bidding on to upgrade my dell..

I ended up with an entire new computer, and a H50. I added one extra fan (stock comes with 1) and I am seeing idle, non-OC'd temps of 62F. WOW

I love this thing. LOVE it. Considered returning it for the H70 when I saw the radiator was bigger but I believe I googled the H50s pump is better and I can DIY a reservoir.

I shall add my rig stats later. If anyone is Using a DFI P35 LT with a Q6600 and PC2-8500 ram let me know, Im having issues having the board read the ram at over than over PC2-6400 =( Since this is my first post, I am not post hijacking. Just introducing and tossing that in there =)


----------



## Pheatton

Anyone find a work around for fitting the Antec 902 side panel with fan once the H70 is installed?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Just received 90% of my water cooling set up, not long till im out of this club


----------



## Clairvoyant129

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12400403*
> Just received 90% of my water cooling set up, not long till im out of this club


Very nice choice of components.







With those parts, your H70 will look like a stock Intel cooler.


----------



## xt486

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12278834*
> my tempatures are about the same or higher, i dont have no ticking noise tho, but come summer time im buy a ac for my room, cuz it will be to hot i think or id have to remove my overclock lol
> 
> Idle
> cpu = 41-47 degrees
> core 1 = 57
> core 2 = 57
> core 3 = 53
> core 4 = 53
> 
> Load
> Cpu = 51-55 Degrees
> core 1 = 65
> core 2 = 65
> core 3 = 61
> core 4 = 61


These Temps are great, are those standard fans in your H70?, are they in Push/pull config extract or intake. I want to achieve those temps my load is +- 75c.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xt486;12405133*
> These Temps are great, are those standard fans in your H70?, are they in Push/pull config extract or intake. I want to achieve those temps my load is +- 75c.


Ya those temps are with a push/pull config used as an exhaust with the stock fans , keep in mind its winter here so once summer hits there going to go up


----------



## SpeedNuggeT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin;12380085*
> Isn't it strange that when I first built my rig and didn't do proper cable management (had all my cables out in then open and not hidden through the back), it had the same *EXACT* temps as when I did hide most of my cables through the back? I didn't even see a 1C difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Airflow works by pressure going through the case. Whether or not cables are "blocking" the air passages or fans, the case fans are still going to be sending the same amount of air pressure in or out of the case.
> 
> Cable management is almost purely aesthetics. Unless you've only got 1 or 2 case fans, I doubt messy cables will really affect the airflow through your case.
> 
> If you've got proof that messy cables does affect temps/airflow, then I will acknowledge this myth of cable management that people keep rambling about.


I agree. a few cables doesn't hurt. a RATS nest of cables will affect temps.


----------



## alancsalt

Or a bunch of the old ribbon cables for IDE could slow airflow......


----------



## bckai

Hey guys,

So I'm wondering if the buzzing noise is part of normal operation or if it's something that needs to get fixed.

I've got the pump connected to the CPU fan header, and it's rocking at 1400 rpm. Fans are connected to Chassis header, and scales with temperature. Mobo and other stuff is in my sig.

The buzzing isn't loud. I can barely hear it unless I'm really listening for it, but even then it's not that bad. Temps are great. running at about 27-30C idle to 50C tops at load, in an ambient temp of about 19C. I'm just worried if it's a sign that things are turning south or something.


----------



## Pheatton

Normal pump noise possibly?

I have not heard mine do this yet.


----------



## bckai

Quote:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheatton;12410423*
> Normal pump noise possibly?
> 
> I have not heard mine do this yet.


Have you tried putting your ear close to it? Kind of like a continuous clicking noise at about 10Hz.

Someone made a video of it and put the mic right up to it.

[ame="[URL=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeOB6U5MAj4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeOB6U5MAj4"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeOB6U5MAj4[/ame[/URL]]

Haven't figured out if it was normal pump noise or not. The guy who posted the video said he RMA'd it and when the new one came back it had the same problem. He ended up returning it and getting a Noctua. Again, no official word on whether or not this is normal.


----------



## Jim McNasty

Hey there, as im new to this forum i felt its only right that i show off my pride and joy!
I've had my H50 now for just shy of a year now, it was originally cooling my Phenom X4, but i recently upgraded to an X6.
The H50 is a fantastic bit of kit and im staggered at its reliablity and price.
My X6 is overclocked to 3600Ghz and idle temp is 35oc and under load it never goes above 48oc, i've tried to get my X6 to the 4Ghz mark but so far no joy










Anyways i figured i try and join the H50 club, heres some pics of my rig, hope you like!
Jimbo


----------



## xPwn

Hey guys my old CPU cooler wouldn't cut it so i picked up an h50 at Best Buy.
YES the clicking sound is normal


----------



## HiLuckyB

My H50 pump makes no sound. If yours does I would get it replaced. But thats me.


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Mine is silent


----------



## thrasherht

the H50 I have is absolutely silent. The only way I can hear it is if I put my ear against the pump, and i can't really hear it, i more like feel it.


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

^ I LOL'd at your sig quote


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OrangeSVTguy*


^ I LOL'd at your sig quote


LOL, thanks. I thought it was pretty funny. To make it even better, the guy was trolling.


----------



## bckai

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


My H50 pump makes no sound. If yours does I would get it replaced. But thats me.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *OrangeSVTguy*


Mine is silent











Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


the H50 I have is absolutely silent. The only way I can hear it is if I put my ear against the pump, and i can't really hear it, i more like feel it.


Very interesting... Thanks guys for the information. That's helpful. I'm getting a lot of conflicting reports, though still.

Again, the sound is very near silent. But my case is quiet, and it's about a foot away from my head on the desk, so I can hear it if I try. Don't want to RMA it if I don't have to. Just a pain in the butt to take it off again.


----------



## XtachiX

mine is silent, but then again all my fans probably make more noise than the h50 itself


----------



## iZZ

Add me


----------



## amartolos

Temps

3.7Ghz 1.2 vcore Idle 33-38 |prime 63-67 | games 59-62|

4Ghz 1.3vcore Idle 36-40 |prime 73-77 | games 62-66|

4.2Ghz 1.375vcore Idle 38-42 |prime 83-86 | games 68-71|


----------



## kungenclaes

As a soon to be h70 owner I'm choosing from two diffrent fans:

Akasa Viper PWM

Gelid wing 12p. PWM

The numbers on these fans says that the viper will be a better as for cooling but the Gelid will be somewhat more silent.

Any shout outs on these or will any of these be just fine?

Searched this thread and saw that ppl been happy about their Gelids. Didnt found much about the viper other than it "would" be good.

Thanks in advance guys.


----------



## XtachiX

try uk 3k fans
XD
or delta fans
XD

j/k, gelids are freaking kewl


----------



## Mergatroid

Oh joy.

I got a pretty good overclock of my cpu, almost 1GHz stable. I was a very happy camper, smiling because I was only planning on going up to 3GHz, but got 3.375GHz with a max temp of 66c. That's pretty good considering my stock Intel cooler was going up to 72c loaded at stock speed.

So, here I was smiling away and I thought, hey, maybe I should check my peripherals to make sure they're working properly (I had a problem with a USB 3.0 card on my old ASUS main board when it was slightly overclocked).

So, I did a benchmark on my Patriot Inferno SSD....and it sucked. I was benching at 248MB/s, and it was benching at about 184MB/s after the overclock. I also checked my 1TB WD 7200 RPM hard drive, which was 99MB/s before the overclock and it went down to about 85MB/s. Even my external USB 3.0 hard drive was benching slower.

What gives? I've looked through the BIOS but cannot find anything relating to clocking the SATA ports (are they not just on the PCI bus?).

What should I do to correct the hard drive transfer speeds while the board is overclocked? I made sure during the overclock not to mess with the PCI-E and PCI bus clocks. As you can see in the picture they are still the stock speeds.

As an aside, check out the reading on the +12V. Lol, it goes crazy! Some times it reads 6V (in multiple programs) and sometimes it says 16V. Something crazy going on there. I have brought my digital VOM home from work and tested it. It's a steady 12.06V all the time. The BIOS reads it correctly as well. Strange glitch.

The other thing I thought I would mention, as I have alluded to before, is how well the PCM fans are working out. During this overclock, you can see the FAN1 speed (CPU fan header controlling two Scythe PWM fans) is up to 1865 RMP. I actually saw it go up to just over 1900 RMP. The fans are rated at about 1900 but testing them with my fan controller they both top out at over 2100 RPM, so there's still a ways to go before they reach max. They ARE quite loud when running anything over about 1600 RPM.

Hey, just my 2 bits worth about cable management. Although I agree it's MOSTLY aesthetic, even if there is a ONE degree difference in temp, it's worth it. We're on an overclocking site right now talking about things like which thermal paste will reduce your temps a couple of degrees. Doing what we are all doing EVERY degree is important.
I have to agree though, that if you have a small case and what someone aptly referred to as a "rats nest" of cables, I have no doubt you would be able to see a temperature difference under those conditions. It's not just how much air is entering the case and how much is leaving, it's also the flow. You can develop hot spots that don't get any circulation if there are cables blocking the area. This hot spot may not even show up in your readings if you have no sensor in that area, but it COULD lead to some components running warmer with no way to tell. This is especially true for people with multiple older IDE hard drives and a floppy drive with their wide flat cables.

If anyone doubts this, consider that air operates in a similar fashion to fluids. There are websites out there that specifically deal with fluid flow under varying conditions. Also, for anyone who has taken 2nd year college physics you have also likely taken some fluid dynamics studies. Those studies likely apply as much to air as they do to fluids.

Think about the various shapes they have given the rear ends of cars over the years, and any wind tunnel tests you may have seen in your TV watching or Internet travels. You can easily see how air turbulence can be affected by the smallest changes in the design of the rear of the vehicle. You can actually create areas in the rear where no air is flowing. Unless you have an instrument there to detect this, you'd never even know it.

So, IMHO, even though cable management may be mostly aesthetic, I believe there is also a practical component to it as well.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;12426455*
> Oh joy.
> 
> I got a pretty good overclock of my cpu, almost 1GHz stable. I was a very happy camper, smiling because I was only planning on going up to 3GHz, but got 3.375GHz with a max temp of 66c. That's pretty good considering my stock Intel cooler was going up to 72c loaded at stock speed.
> 
> So, here I was smiling away and I thought, hey, maybe I should check my peripherals to make sure they're working properly (I had a problem with a USB 3.0 card on my old ASUS main board when it was slightly overclocked).
> 
> So, I did a benchmark on my Patriot Inferno SSD....and it sucked. I was benching at 248MB/s, and it was benching at about 184MB/s after the overclock. I also checked my 1TB WD 7200 RPM hard drive, which was 99MB/s before the overclock and it went down to about 85MB/s. Even my external USB 3.0 hard drive was benching slower.
> 
> What gives? I've looked through the BIOS but cannot find anything relating to clocking the SATA ports (are they not just on the PCI bus?).
> 
> What should I do to correct the hard drive transfer speeds while the board is overclocked? I made sure during the overclock not to mess with the PCI-E and PCI bus clocks. As you can see in the picture they are still the stock speeds.
> 
> As an aside, check out the reading on the +12V. Lol, it goes crazy! Some times it reads 6V (in multiple programs) and sometimes it says 16V. Something crazy going on there. I have brought my digital VOM home from work and tested it. It's a steady 12.06V all the time. The BIOS reads it correctly as well. Strange glitch.
> 
> The other thing I thought I would mention, as I have alluded to before, is how well the PCM fans are working out. During this overclock, you can see the FAN1 speed (CPU fan header controlling two Scythe PWM fans) is up to 1865 RMP. I actually saw it go up to just over 1900 RMP. The fans are rated at about 1900 but testing them with my fan controller they both top out at over 2100 RPM, so there's still a ways to go before they reach max. They ARE quite loud when running anything over about 1600 RPM.
> 
> Hey, just my 2 bits worth about cable management. Although I agree it's MOSTLY aesthetic, even if there is a ONE degree difference in temp, it's worth it. We're on an overclocking site right now talking about things like which thermal paste will reduce your temps a couple of degrees. Doing what we are all doing EVERY degree is important.
> I have to agree though, that if you have a small case and what someone aptly referred to as a "rats nest" of cables, I have no doubt you would be able to see a temperature difference under those conditions. It's not just how much air is entering the case and how much is leaving, it's also the flow. You can develop hot spots that don't get any circulation if there are cables blocking the area. This hot spot may not even show up in your readings if you have no sensor in that area, but it COULD lead to some components running warmer with no way to tell. This is especially true for people with multiple older IDE hard drives and a floppy drive with their wide flat cables.
> 
> If anyone doubts this, consider that air operates in a similar fashion to fluids. There are websites out there that specifically deal with fluid flow under varying conditions. Also, for anyone who has taken 2nd year college physics you have also likely taken some fluid dynamics studies. Those studies likely apply as much to air as they do to fluids.
> 
> Think about the various shapes they have given the rear ends of cars over the years, and any wind tunnel tests you may have seen in your TV watching or Internet travels. You can easily see how air turbulence can be affected by the smallest changes in the design of the rear of the vehicle. You can actually create areas in the rear where no air is flowing. Unless you have an instrument there to detect this, you'd never even know it.
> 
> So, IMHO, even though cable management may be mostly aesthetic, I believe there is also a practical component to it as well.


I think you posted this in the wrong thread...


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12426492*
> I think you posted this in the wrong thread...


Technically, perhaps. But considering I was also replying to posts talking about cable management, and also considering I would not be doing any overclocking without the Corsair H70, and also considering I was talking about temps as other people are doing, I think that is debatable.

However, I am willing to repost elsewhere if asked to do so.

Edit. I can see your point. The first 1/4 of the message could have been moved to another thread, but if you read my prior posts you would see that it is all interrelated to my installation of the H70 and the PWM fans.


----------



## briangp

Pretty good success with my H50. Installed two Thermaltake fans from Radio Shack, 78CFM. Not really quiet fans, but not super noisy... if you get my drift. Push pull config, and I've got the cooling solution mounted to my window, so the airflow from the radiator blows down directly on my motherboard.

Prime95 runs at ~51C max under full load, 1.43vcore. And since my motherboard is now cooled by this system as well, my motherboard has yet to exceed 30C. Memory is cold as hell at 1.7V


----------



## Jayce1971

I've gotten mixed results with my H70 since I started pushing up clock speeds. At under load at stock speeds, stays very cool.







As soon as I start pushing up fsb and multipliers, the temps rise exponentially. Roughly 10c for every 100Mhz oc. Unfortunately, I don't like temps north of 62c and to keep my load temps under, I must back off to apprx 3.150Ghz (14 x 225) max. Not horrible for a stable oc, but not an incredible feat, either. I may have to end up experimenting with an additional reservoir, and I'm definately going to upgrade the proc to one that is made to run at higher stock speeds. The ol' Athlon can retire into a simple life of running BOINC or some other worthy cause. I think that the H70 will be more comfortable cooling a stock processor running under full load than a overclocked one.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayce1971;12427538*
> I've gotten mixed results with my H70 since I started pushing up clock speeds. At under load at stock speeds, stays very cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As soon as I start pushing up fsb and multipliers, the temps rise exponentially. Roughly 10c for every 100Mhz oc. Unfortunately, I don't like temps north of 62c and to keep my load temps under, I must back off to apprx 3.150Ghz (14 x 225) max. Not horrible for a stable oc, but not an incredible feat, either. I may have to end up experimenting with an additional reservoir, and I'm definately going to upgrade the proc to one that is made to run at higher stock speeds. The ol' Athlon can retire into a simple life of running BOINC or some other worthy cause. I think that the H70 will be more comfortable cooling a stock processor running under full load than a overclocked one.


Thats odd because my H50 could keep my i5 750 @4.0 around 60c full load, And my i7 875K @4.0 HT on at around 65c full load


----------



## Jayce1971

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bckai;12410501*
> Have you tried putting your ear close to it? Kind of like a continuous clicking noise at about 10Hz.
> 
> Someone made a video of it and put the mic right up to it.
> 
> [ame="[URL=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeOB6U5MAj4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeOB6U5MAj4"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeOB6U5MAj4[/ame[/URL]]
> 
> Umm, I play bass guitar, have excellent hearing, and can't hear at that frequency. 10cps is below the audible threshold of human perception. I must have one of the quiet H70's, even with the fans turned down below 900 rpm, no sound from the pump, whatsoever. Hope you get 'er figured out, though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could possibly be cavitation depending on how it is mounted?


----------



## Jayce1971

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12427642*
> Thats odd because my H50 could keep my i5 750 @4.0 around 60c full load, And my i7 875K @4.0 HT on at around 65c full load


The first thing I have done is losen the mounting ring and try to spread the tim around while warm. Didn't make a difference, so next step will be to polish up the waterblock/pump and make sure I'm getting good contact between the cpu and cooler. I too was at a loss, as I was thoroughly impressed with the cooling at stock speeds under load. Running prime95 at 3.3Ghz sent the core temps soaring to 80c. Had to kill the power. Perhaps this chip is just "warm", and won't take much. Or maybe, the temperature sensors are poorly calibrated. Don't know yet, time will tell.


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kungenclaes;12424019*
> As a soon to be h70 owner I'm choosing from two diffrent fans:
> 
> Akasa Viper PWM
> 
> Gelid wing 12p. PWM
> 
> The numbers on these fans says that the viper will be a better as for cooling but the Gelid will be somewhat more silent.
> 
> Any shout outs on these or will any of these be just fine?
> 
> Searched this thread and saw that ppl been happy about their Gelids. Didnt found much about the viper other than it "would" be good.
> 
> Thanks in advance guys.


I haven't had them long, but so far I'm happy with my Vipers. The noise is hardly an issue, and they're very good at cooling. I haven't started serious overclocking yet, so I don't know how they'll perform under a heavier load.


----------



## teichu

hi i just finished install h70 , but my idle temp didnt lower at all , i am running i7 920 @ 4.0ghz and my temperature r 44c 43c 46c 41c , is this ok for idle temp?? i am feel little disappoint with h70


----------



## nerdybeat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teichu*


hi i just finished install h70 , but my idle temp didnt lower at all , i am running i7 920 @ 4.0ghz and my temperature r 44c 43c 46c 41c , is this ok for idle temp?? i am feel little disappoint with h70



What is your voltage set at for your OC? 
Are you running the corsair H70 fans on high or low?
Are you running it as exhaust or intake?

I upgraded from a Zalman fan as well. My idle temps didn't drop super drastically, however prime95 load and gaming temps are a lottttt lower.


----------



## teichu

my voltage @ 1.375 , and i think my fan running ok cpu around 1400rpm, and other 2 around 1500-1600 and i am running intake i think cuz i put 2 fans inside so this will be normal??


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teichu*


my voltage @ 1.375 , and i think my fan running ok cpu around 1400rpm, and other 2 around 1500-1600 and i am running intake i think cuz i put 2 fans inside so this will be normal??


That seems like alot of Vcore for a i7 920 D0







That much vcore will be hard to cool with a H70


----------



## teichu

actually i am using co now, but my other d0 even runs hotter than co , i oc d0 to 4.2 with 1.3v idle temp almost 48c ..................but i havnt test h70 with d0 chip, since i already know my c0 didnt get cooler with h70.............


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teichu*


actually i am using co now, but my other d0 even runs hotter than co , i oc d0 to 4.2 with 1.3v idle temp almost 48c ..................but i havnt test h70 with d0 chip, since i already know my c0 didnt get cooler with h70.............


I see







Even on air cooling I would idle around 30c







What is your room temp? Is your pump running at 100% Its odd I never had any problems with my H50 keeping any of my cpu's @4.0 cool. hopefully someone else might have some more ideas soon


----------



## teichu

how can i check my if pumping running at 100%??


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teichu*


how can i check my if pumping running at 100%??


How do you have it plugged in? If its right in to the power supply you should be fine. You can plug it in to the motherboard so you can see what rpm its running at.


----------



## teichu

ok my board got 3 different plug , opt_fan cpu_fan and pwr_fan , which wire should i plug in which spot?? or it doesnt matter??


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teichu*


ok my board got 3 different plug , opt_fan cpu_fan and pwr_fan , which wire should i plug in which spot?? or it doesnt matter??


Not sure on your board. The cpu_fan would for sure work, But you have to make sure to go in to the bios and turn what ever one you plug in to 100%


----------



## black06g85

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


Those are pretty decent temps for that oc/vcore. What kind of fans are you running with the H50?


actually now temps are even lower, got it stable on a bit less vcore, max temps hit only 58c now, idle is 32-35.
running the stock fan that comes with the h50 as the outside puller, and I had some extra 120mm blue led fan that's internal now as the pusher.
going for a bit more speed this weekend once I get everything fully dialed in.

































and yes I'm going to finish cleaning up the wiring this weeknd, been testing alot of different ways to cool this thing, now that's its where I want it I can make it look good now lol.


----------



## teichu

yea i can see my fan speed in bios, cpu fan speed 1454 rpm and fan #1 runs 1593rpm, chassis fan 732rpm so should be ok??


----------



## Nutty Pumpkin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teichu*


hi i just finished install h70 , but my idle temp didnt lower at all , i am running i7 920 @ 4.0ghz and my temperature r 44c 43c 46c 41c , is this ok for idle temp?? i am feel little disappoint with h70


Don't know if it helps, but some CPU internal sensors won't report past a certain number.

Happens on my E7500, idle won't drop past 44C


----------



## XtachiX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teichu*


yea i can see my fan speed in bios, cpu fan speed 1454 rpm and fan #1 runs 1593rpm, chassis fan 732rpm so should be ok??


the important thing is you disable bios fan control, so the pump actually doesnt slow down (its not supposed to) the 1400s is your pump


----------



## teichu

so u mean i should disable the fan control in bios??


----------



## XtachiX

yes, you have to, otherwise you will kill the pump if it undervolts and runs slow


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teichu*


so u mean i should disable the fan control in bios??


It should make it run at full speed.


----------



## Davidsen

Added









Temps so far: 
Normal use: 22C Idle, 37C Load(Linx)
Benching: 0C(sub-zero?) Idle, 17C Load(Linx)


----------



## teichu

sigh , i feel frusrtate spend 100 bucks on h70 cant help me lower the temp, i think everything setup ok , also i can hear like water sound from the pump when i start boot my pc , just dont get how u guys can actually get lower idle temp


----------



## XtachiX

how is your pump connected?


----------



## bckai

Quote:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayce1971;12427727*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bckai;12410501*
> Have you tried putting your ear close to it? Kind of like a continuous clicking noise at about 10Hz.
> 
> Someone made a video of it and put the mic right up to it.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeOB6U5MAj4
> 
> Umm, I play bass guitar, have excellent hearing, and can't hear at that frequency. 10cps is below the audible threshold of human perception. I must have one of the quiet H70's, even with the fans turned down below 900 rpm, no sound from the pump, whatsoever. Hope you get 'er figured out, though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could possibly be cavitation depending on how it is mounted?
> 
> 
> 
> Not sound frequency. Frequency of the clicking itself.
> 
> In any case, I did get in touch with Corsair tech support, and they said that there should be sound coming from the pump/block but that "it should be inaudible with the case closed." I suppose that's close enough. At the end of the day the product is working well for me. But being as OCD as I am, I am considering getting it replaced just to see if the other one does it.
Click to expand...


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teichu*


my voltage @ 1.375 , and i think my fan running ok cpu around 1400rpm, and other 2 around 1500-1600 and i am running intake i think cuz i put 2 fans inside so this will be normal??


Is it the 4.0GHz in one post, or the 4.2GHz in your sig? Either way 1.375v a little higher than average.

I managed 4.2 on a 950 @ 1.3215v, and with H50/shroud/fan got hottest core of 40 and rest under, also peaked at 79c in prime95, but they are all a little different.

Seating the Corsair is fussy, but it does need to be spot on, with right amount of tim, even pressure, etc. This is a common prob, but equal numbers or more (?) do better.


----------



## Zen00

By the way, is the stuff that comes on the Corsair H50 a good thermal compound, or should I scrape it off and put on some of my Arctic Silver 5?


----------



## SpeacialFeatures

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zen00;12446140*
> By the way, is the stuff that comes on the Corsair H50 a good thermal compound, or should I scrape it off and put on some of my Arctic Silver 5?


The Corsair TIM is great stuff. I recently re-seated my cooler and used AS5, my temps are about 3-5c hotter now. Still just above 30c at idle tho.


----------



## the little moder

hi im new to the forums and i seen this sweet 50h/70h club


----------



## teichu

man i am pretty disappoint with my h70 now , i already send message to corsair techinican hope can rma , i might thinking to switch to noctua cooling now


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teichu;12450269*
> man i am pretty disappoint with my h70 now , i already send message to corsair techinican hope can rma , i might thinking to switch to noctua cooling now


Or even better switch to a water cooling loop, like i am, it blows away the performance or both air and h50/h70


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teichu*


man i am pretty disappoint with my h70 now , i already send message to corsair techinican hope can rma , i might thinking to switch to noctua cooling now


If anything get a XSPC Rasa 750 watercooling kit! But im not a big fan of big air coolers. Thats alot of weight hanging off the motherboard







It seems to take a 3 or 4 trys to get the best temps from the H50/H70 when people first get it. It took 3 remounts for me to get the best temps, And for me 5 dots of tim around the cpu works the best


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB*


If anything get a XSPC Rasa 750 watercooling kit! But im not a big fan of big air coolers. Thats alot of weight hanging off the motherboard







It seems to take a 3 or 4 trys to get the best temps from the H50/H70 when people first get it. It took 3 remounts for me to get the best temps, And for me 5 dots of tim around the cpu works the best










i went all custom with my build, its like $1000 lol with all the gpu blocks n stuff, i went all ek for the blocks..and Black IceÂ® GTX Gen Two Xtreme 360


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset;12451088*
> i went all custom with my build, its like $1000 lol with all the gpu blocks n stuff, i went all ek for the blocks..and Black Ice® GTX Gen Two Xtreme 360


Yea thats why I went with the XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 under $200







My i7 875K @4.0 went from 65c with the H50 to 55c


----------



## teichu

i would like to get water cooling loop , but i dunno how to set up correctly....................


----------



## Eros

Just got a H70 a few days ago. Loving it.
Definitely worth the $80(CAD) price tag I picked it up for.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teichu;12452199*
> i would like to get water cooling loop , but i dunno how to set up correctly....................


i cant say ive done it, but i did my research and it is actually pretty easy, thats why i decided to do it, it does look overwhelming if you just look and dont ask.

Just create a thread on the water cooling section, tell them your budget, and ask ANY QUESTION, if your unsure about something, thats what i did.


----------



## seducius

heya al i just got a new comp a dragon rider and i bought a h70 as cooling solution.
I was wondering how the best way it is to mount the h70 air in or out. im thinking of going out as the big side fan wil blow fresh air right next to the h70 fan just want to know what you guys think

here are the pics red square is where the h70 is gonna mount blue circle is the dragon rider big side fan










Or corsair way


----------



## liquoredonlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teichu;12452199*
> i would like to get water cooling loop , but i dunno how to set up correctly....................


There are tons of videos on youtube on how to set up a water cooling loop, the tube type, types of fittings/adapters, what size rad you should use, what kind fans to use with that rad. Look for videos by DazMode or LethalHammer. I can't link them from work but they're easy to find. It may seem intimidating, but just take your time.

If it's just your CPU, you can't go wrong with the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 kit. It's *$130* and has just about everything you need to get started (except distilled water).

That's the same price as an H70 with 2 Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15's but performs way better. My temps w/ H70 & GTAP-15 P/P went from 61-72C to 47-58C (ave 14C drop), with ambient at 19C, v1.385 @ 4.6ghz. In the same loop, my GPU dropped from 88-92C to 37C max.

If you want to make it easier on yourself and can spend a little more money, then read my post about some things I recommend you should get from the start (better quality tube, kill coil to prevent algae, new thermal grease).

Anyway, I liked the H70 for what it was, but found it inadequate for any real overclocking, and really quite dismal when compared to the best that air cooling had to offer. If you're not planning to overclock, this cooler will perform very well compared to stock, but it's also overkill for running stock. A used H50 @ $50 is a good deal. A new H70 at $100 is not. If you're going to do a mild overclock, this'll do great, but it's all relative to your ambient temps and how you can setup P/P.

The cost/performance ratio of the H70 along with upgraded fans didn't sit right with me- the system is closed and not expandable (well, it can be but you void the warranty). Water cooling loops now have become a lot easier and cheaper to build than in the past and easier to maintain. The question is whether you're willing to sacrifice space in your case and being a bit more diligent in maintaining your case. For me, huge drop in temps and nearly noiseless operation made it worth it. I only regret not doing it right from the start, but at least now I have some basis for comparison.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seducius;12471080*
> heya al i just got a new comp a dragon rider and i bought a h70 as cooling solution.
> I was wondering how the best way it is to mount the h70 air in or out. im thinking of going out as the big side fan wil blow fresh air right next to the h70 fan just want to know what you guys think
> 
> here are the pics red square is where the h70 is gonna mount blue circle is the dragon rider big side fan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or corsair way


Mount it to the top fan and blow out through the top. Should fit reasonably well there. If you can't mount it there because it interfered with the Pump on the CPU, then mount in the front and use that to intake from. You aren't filling all your 5.25 bays are you?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## IlovetheChosenone

Here's mine.


----------



## teichu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teichu;12450269*
> man i am pretty disappoint with my h70 now , i already send message to corsair techinican hope can rma , i might thinking to switch to noctua cooling now


haha i am sorry guys, the reason i got high temp with h70 , cuz i didnt set up pump correctly to attach the cpu well, my friend already help me out to set up pump , now i get idle temp 25c with my i7 [email protected] , when i oc to 4.2ghz my idle temp got 38-39c pretty well .............


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teichu;12473399*
> haha i am sorry guys, the reason i got high temp with h70 , cuz i didnt set up pump correctly to attach the cpu well, my friend already help me out to set up pump , *now i get idle temp 25c* with my i7 [email protected] , when i oc to 4.2ghz my idle temp got 38-39c pretty well .............


I'm not sure that's even possible. It's Winter here and I'm running minimum temp of 31c at minimal load on my 955 BE...









and my CPU is fully lapped as well as is the contact plate on the H50 and I'm not running a hyperthread CPU.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12474436*
> I'm not sure that's even possible. It's Winter here and I'm running minimum temp of 31c at minimal load on my 955 BE...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and my CPU is fully lapped as well as is the contact plate on the H50 and I'm not running a hyperthread CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Could be an inaccurate temp sensor. My CPU sensor says 21C-24C for idle, though it seems more towards 28C-30C+. I have an unlock processor though, so I can't really find the right temps.


----------



## BigHache

Just posting a pick of my H50. I have a 90mm Gelid Solid fan on the front of my case, then a 90mm to 120mm adapter to the radiator, with a Triebwerk fan on the other side.


----------



## soarwitheagles

Hi all,

Purchased the Corsair H70, put it in an AMD 1055T rig with a Gigabyte 890XA-UD3 MOBO. Worked fine for about 3 months and I was deeply impressed to have so much breathing room in my case. Also looked very clean.

Then the nightmare started...

The H70 began to leak...[look carefully where the hose attaches to the right angled rotatable connection point on the water pump please].

Just want to ask here if others have had the same problem.

I RMA'd the unit to Corsair and after nearly 4 weeks, they are still doing "research" on the failed unit.

Anyway, *am I the only unlucky bum to have spent good money on a Liquid Cooling system that leaks antifreeze* [it smells exactly the same as the antifreeze in my truck]?

Please give me some feedback people because now I am considering the Antec Kühler H2O 620 Liquid Cooler...

Thanks,

Soar


----------



## alancsalt

Soar, first time I've seen that happen. They should have just sent a replacement. They were very quick to remedy faults when they first came out.

Have you posted on the Corsair forum?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soarwitheagles;12478489*
> Hi all,
> 
> Purchased the Corsair H70, put it in an AMD 1055T rig with a Gigabyte 890XA-UD3 MOBO. Worked fine for about 3 months and I was deeply impressed to have so much breathing room in my case. Also looked very clean.
> 
> Then the nightmare started...
> 
> The H70 began to leak...[look carefully where the hose attaches to the right angled rotatable connection point on the water pump please].
> 
> Just want to ask here if others have had the same problem.
> 
> I RMA'd the unit to Corsair and after nearly 4 weeks, they are still doing "research" on the failed unit.
> 
> Anyway, *am I the only unlucky bum to have spent good money on a Liquid Cooling system that leaks antifreeze* [it smells exactly the same as the antifreeze in my truck]?
> 
> Please give me some feedback people because now I am considering the Antec Kühler H2O 620 Liquid Cooler...
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Soar


I'm assuming no damage resulted of this?









If you're going to go with an air cooler(not that I would go with air) then you should look into Noctua D14 or Prolimatech's Supermega cooler.

But here is the thing. If you sustained no damage from the H70 I would just go back to it.

I have the H50 and while I am aware of a couple of members having had complications with it, you can have that with any cooler. Maybe not of the same magnitude but nothing is surefire. Take it from me my sigrig was down for 6 months because I wanted to sleeve it. One wrong move and *snap crackle pop* with zero recourse.









From everything I've heard about Corsair their RMA process can be painfully slow but they generally make good in the end. I know a fella that sent in a defective 4Gig Dominator kit and ended up getting 8Gigs back. Probably someone goofed but how cool was that.









If you're not in a hurry to get off the stocker fan, I don't see any need to run off half cocked and abandon a perfectly decent cooler. Not unless you were borderline on your initial choice anyway.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## XtachiX

200 words... maybe i'll let you do my essay assignments and my research since you like to type a lot


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XtachiX;12480244*
> 200 words... maybe i'll let you do my essay assignments and my research since you like to type a lot


Meh, sometimes it's short an sweet. Other times it's a novel. I never know til I start thinking as I type and til the brain is drained.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## thecyb0rg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XtachiX;12480244*
> 200 words... maybe i'll let you do my essay assignments and my research since you like to type a lot


props for counting... (or using word pad







)


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soarwitheagles;12478489*
> Hi all,
> 
> Purchased the Corsair H70, put it in an AMD 1055T rig with a Gigabyte 890XA-UD3 MOBO. Worked fine for about 3 months and I was deeply impressed to have so much breathing room in my case. Also looked very clean.
> 
> Then the nightmare started...
> 
> The H70 began to leak...[look carefully where the hose attaches to the right angled rotatable connection point on the water pump please].
> 
> Just want to ask here if others have had the same problem.
> 
> I RMA'd the unit to Corsair and after nearly 4 weeks, they are still doing "research" on the failed unit.
> 
> Anyway, *am I the only unlucky bum to have spent good money on a Liquid Cooling system that leaks antifreeze* [it smells exactly the same as the antifreeze in my truck]?
> 
> Please give me some feedback people because now I am considering the Antec Kühler H2O 620 Liquid Cooler...
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Soar


For just a bit more than the H70 why not go for the XSPC RASA RX120 or 240 or 360 kit? Temps will be much better than what the H70 or any air cooler can provide.


----------



## XtachiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12480378*
> Meh, sometimes it's short an sweet. Other times it's a novel. I never know til I start thinking as I type and til the brain is drained.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


interesting, i usually get data overflow in my storage capacity and ram (in my brain) from reading your posts







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_Cyb0rg;12480494*
> props for counting... (or using word pad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


ms word


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seducius;12471080*
> heya al i just got a new comp a dragon rider and i bought a h70 as cooling solution.
> I was wondering how the best way it is to mount the h70 air in or out. im thinking of going out as the big side fan wil blow fresh air right next to the h70 fan just want to know what you guys think
> 
> here are the pics red square is where the h70 is gonna mount blue circle is the dragon rider big side fan


My Thermaltake Armor case has a huge 250mm side intake fan pulling fresh air in, similar to your case; so I have my H70 configured as an outflow fan as well, and it seems to work fine so far at stock CPU.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XtachiX;12482709*
> interesting, i usually get data overflow in my storage capacity and ram (in my brain) from reading your posts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ms word


So what are you trying to say?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## vf-

Been a lurker for a long time now. Built this at Christmas. Didn't get the H70 until just after the New Year. Those big mammoth air coolers never appealed to me and even if I had installed one in my midi tower, my case wouldn't be able to breathe due to the sheer size of them.

Thats the thing I love about Lian Li cases. Even though this is an old case, 2006, it feels like a meccano kit. Accessories still on the go that I can still add to making the case feel new again.

I'm planning on modding the case in the summer to strip this down again, maybe paint it matte black (internals) and fit a 140mm roof exhaust fan or two...


----------



## Launcherstrike

Hey that's a really nice case/setup you got there vf-. You could fill in your system specs to show off what's really in there :]

I had a H70 at first but wasn't satisfied with the temps it gave me so I switched back to the H50. This is my secondary rig which my girlfriend uses when she's over at my place and I'm using my sig rig.

E8400 @ 4.0
H50 P/P GT AP14
2x1Gb Patriot DDR2
DFI Lanparty Jr P45 T2RS
XFX 5770
Corsair HX520
Antec P180 mini


----------



## XtachiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12487224*
> So what are you trying to say?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


my essays


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soarwitheagles;12478489*
> Hi all,
> 
> Purchased the Corsair H70, put it in an AMD 1055T rig with a Gigabyte 890XA-UD3 MOBO. Worked fine for about 3 months and I was deeply impressed to have so much breathing room in my case. Also looked very clean.
> 
> Then the nightmare started...
> 
> The H70 began to leak...[look carefully where the hose attaches to the right angled rotatable connection point on the water pump please].
> 
> Just want to ask here if others have had the same problem.
> 
> I RMA'd the unit to Corsair and after nearly 4 weeks, they are still doing "research" on the failed unit.
> 
> Anyway, *am I the only unlucky bum to have spent good money on a Liquid Cooling system that leaks antifreeze* [it smells exactly the same as the antifreeze in my truck]?
> 
> Please give me some feedback people because now I am considering the Antec Kühler H2O 620 Liquid Cooler...
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Soar


Oh wow, that's amazingly bad luck bud. I have only heard of one legitimate case of a leaking H50 or H70 myself. Perhaps someone else knows of more, but I looked into it before purchasing.

I feel for you. Corsair seemed to go above and beyond helping the one leaking H50 case I heard of, replacing the guys whole system basically. Hang in there. There are a lot of satisfied customers out there.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IlovetheChosenone;12473310*
> Here's mine.


The 180 degree bend in your hoses has me worried. How big is the arc in that bend? It's hard to tell from the picture. A kink in the hose could be deadly.


----------



## Mergatroid

Sorry it took so long for me to post this as I said I would. I have been working on a couple of computers which was taking a lot of time. I solved my overclock/poor hard drive benchmark problem by going back one version of firmware on my board. I have a stable 3.3GHz overclock which, from what I hear, is about what I should be expecting on this CPU. Note that when idling the BIOS turns the clock speed down to 2.64GHz, which is fine by me.

So, in the pictures below I have recorded the results of changing my H70 from Input to Exhaust configuration in my 600T case. Someone had mentioned that I was fighting the natural flow of the case, so I thought I would test it out. Note that Core#3 will never register below 45c and core #4 will never register below 41c as the sensors are messed up on those cores. All tests were run with all case fans running as high as they will go using a Zalman fan controller. The H70 fans are Scythe PWM fans and are RPM-controlled by the BIOS. In Speedfan the H70 PWM fans are Fan1 and the H70 pump is Fan4.

Picture #1: Shows the configuration of my 600T case. I am using the H70 fans to Intake cool air into the H70 at the top forward fan location. The two rear fans are Exhausting and the front 200mm fan is Intake.

Picture #2 Shows the idle temperature when the H70 is in Intake configuration half an hour after shutting down Prime95.

Picture #3: Shows the loaded temperature when the H70 is in Intake configuration after running Prime95 until the temps were stable.

Picture #4: Shows the idle temperatures when the H70 is in Exhaust configuration half an hour after shutting down Prime 95.

Picture #5: Shows the loaded temperature when the H70 is in Exhaust configuration after running Prime95 until the temps were stable.

As we can see, the H70 in Intake configuration is cooler by a couple of degrees than when used as an exhaust. This makes sense to me as the cooler is getting cool air when used as an Intake. Although the video card temps seem approximately the same (give or take a degree), when the H70 is Exhausting the CPU cores are all warmer by one or two degrees. I have changed the fans back to Intake now. Still though, I have to agree with Commander Spock who said "A difference that makes no difference is no difference".

So there's not much of a difference between Intake or Exhaust. I know this may only apply to my particular case and installation, but it looks to me that this fan arrangement is doing as well as can be expected.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;12504587*
> Sorry it took so long for me to post this as I said I would. I have been working on a couple of computers which was taking a lot of time. I solved my overclock/poor hard drive benchmark problem by going back one version of firmware on my board. I have a stable 3.3GHz overclock which, from what I hear, is about what I should be expecting on this CPU. Note that when idling the BIOS turns the clock speed down to 2.64GHz, which is fine by me.
> 
> So, in the pictures below I have recorded the results of changing my H70 from Input to Exhaust configuration in my 600T case. Someone had mentioned that I was fighting the natural flow of the case, so I thought I would test it out. Note that Core#3 will never register below 45c and core #4 will never register below 41c as the sensors are messed up on those cores. All tests were run with all case fans running as high as they will go using a Zalman fan controller. The H70 fans are Scythe PWM fans and are RPM-controlled by the BIOS. In Speedfan the H70 PWM fans are Fan1 and the H70 pump is Fan4.
> 
> Picture #1: Shows the configuration of my 600T case. I am using the H70 fans to Intake cool air into the H70 at the top forward fan location. The two rear fans are Exhausting and the front 200mm fan is Intake.
> 
> Picture #2 Shows the idle temperature when the H70 is in Intake configuration half an hour after shutting down Prime95.
> 
> Picture #3: Shows the loaded temperature when the H70 is in Intake configuration after running Prime95 until the temps were stable.
> 
> Picture #4: Shows the idle temperatures when the H70 is in Exhaust configuration half an hour after shutting down Prime 95.
> 
> Picture #5: Shows the loaded temperature when the H70 is in Exhaust configuration after running Prime95 until the temps were stable.
> 
> As we can see, the H70 in Intake configuration is cooler by a couple of degrees than when used as an exhaust. This makes sense to me as the cooler is getting cool air when used as an Intake. Although the video card temps seem approximately the same (give or take a degree), when the H70 is Exhausting the CPU cores are all warmer by one or two degrees. I have changed the fans back to Intake now. Still though, I have to agree with Commander Spock who said "A difference that makes no difference is no difference".
> 
> So there's not much of a difference between Intake or Exhaust. I know this may only apply to my particular case and installation, but it looks to me that this fan arrangement is doing as well as can be expected.


Did you check NB/IOH and System temps?

Edit:Wow, my thousandth post....


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;12504754*
> Did you check NB/IOH and System temps?
> 
> Edit:Wow, my thousandth post....


Gratz....

I didn't check anything else. I figured if the case temp went up significantly we would see it reflected in the video card temps.

It's funny, I was expecting the video cards to cool a little more with the H70 as exhaust but it didn't happen.

If I can find some kind of super awesome aftermarket cooling solution that will fit on the 4870 cards I might give it a try. They sure run hot to the touch.


----------



## beck84720

Just got mine and loved it. 44degrees in aida64 for 2.5 hours @ 3.9 (overclocked from 3.4) Amd 965be. Overall system sits at early twenties. I love it.\

*edit I fixed the cable mess : )


----------



## beck84720

I'll join : )


----------



## [email protected]

You need to fill in your specs and host your own pictures with your written username too. Proof needed.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beck84720;12517106*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just got mine and loved it. 44degrees in aida64 for 2.5 hours @ 3.9 (overclocked from 3.4) Amd 965be. Overall system sits at early twenties. I love it.\
> 
> *edit I fixed the cable mess : )


I bet your temps can be lower if you can clean up that cable management there with some tie wraps. Unless you wanna mod your case and route them behind.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;12515514*
> Gratz....
> 
> I didn't check anything else. I figured if the case temp went up significantly we would see it reflected in the video card temps.
> 
> It's funny, I was expecting the video cards to cool a little more with the H70 as exhaust but it didn't happen.
> 
> If I can find some kind of super awesome aftermarket cooling solution that will fit on the 4870 cards I might give it a try. They sure run hot to the touch.


There are a few factors in this:
Without stock air cooler no air spill to surrounding components - good to fit an extra spot fan. (My NB temps rose to 125C in games after fitting H50. That wont be the same for every mobo though.)

If the graphics card is the kind that effectively pumps its heat out the back of the case, and the case is in a restrictive position, you can be pumping warmed air back in with Corsair as intake.

If the graphics card just spreads its heat in the case extra case fans may be needed. When I water cooled the graphics cards I didn't need as much airflow on my NB.

Size of case and number of other fans can also affect whether intake works better for you. For most I think it will only be a small difference. Certainly it won't make much difference as long as there is plenty of airflow.

All that is just AFAIK.


----------



## solar0987

im sorry guys i strayed away







but it was for a good cause went full water
before









not done just got tired of it sitting ouside my case, have diff tubing and all just watin for the other rad and gpu block to some from ups
after


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey beck you should go to Asus and get their PCProbe II. You can get it by looking up the Crosshair IV Mobo and looking for downloads. It'll give you a better picture than that CoreTemp utility.

But I have a question too. How are you running that low of a temp? I have the 955 BE which I lapped. And my temps never go below 29c using G751 paste which imho is the best. You running Gelid's new liquid nitrogen paste or something?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];12517262*
> I bet your temps can be lower if you can clean up that cable management there with some tie wraps. Unless you wanna mod your case and route them behind.


Beck, I actually want to see if there had been any temp differences from before and after cable management. This can finally settle the cable management "myth".

[email protected] and myself + a few other memebers here have a disagreement that cable management does not affect case temps and is purely aesthetics.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12517371*
> Hey beck you should go to Asus and get their PCProbe II. You can get it by looking up the Crosshair IV Mobo and looking for downloads. It'll give you a better picture than that CoreTemp utility.
> 
> But I have a question too. How are you running that low of a temp? I have the 955 BE which I lapped. And my temps never go below 29c using G751 paste which imho is the best. You running Gelid's new liquid nitrogen paste or something?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


It will also depend on your ambient temp. My B55 loads around 45C with my window closed, and when I open it for that cold winter air (~10C or even less), my load temp goes down to 36C. Note that I have my system as rear intake, but the rear fan is ~4inches away from the window.

As far as rear intake/exhaust goes, I actually get better internal temps if I have my window open and have the H50 as rear intake. If my window is closed, intake and exhaust have no significant differences (at least for my gpu and nb). If it weren't for my window, I'd have to agree with rear exhaust being the best orientation.


----------



## Ceadderman

Thanks for that Kokin but I'm not a Computer n00b. I understand ambients play a part in reported temps.









I'm just sayin though, that 21c is the minimum temp. Minimum temp for me is 31c Max is 34c(~Core 3 temp) and average is 32c on all 4 cores. So it's crazy difficult there isn't something at work(besides an open window







) or that his monitor is reporting the wrong temps. I'm running stock @3.21Ghz right now and his runs 3.6Ghz. Both being essentially the same CPU but binned differently, one could reasonably assume that his should be running hotter not cooler. Correct?

Well anyway that's why I was asking him. So that he could clear up any misconceptions I'm having.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12519115*
> Thanks for that Kokin but I'm not a Computer n00b. I understand ambients play a part in reported temps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just sayin though, that 21c is the minimum temp. Minimum temp for me is 31c Max is 34c(~Core 3 temp) and average is 32c on all 4 cores. So it's crazy difficult there isn't something at work(besides an open window
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) or that his monitor is reporting the wrong temps. I'm running stock @3.21Ghz right now and his runs 3.6Ghz. Both being essentially the same CPU but binned differently, one could reasonably assume that his should be running hotter not cooler. Correct?
> 
> Well anyway that's why I was asking him. So that he could clear up any misconceptions I'm having.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Sure I suppose? My chip is no different from yours or Beck's (aside from being able to reach 70C instead of just 62C for max temp). Stock speed is 3.2ghz as a dual/unlocked quad.

My idle CPU (not core, since unlocking makes core temp 0C) temp is about 24-25C with my window closed and 20-21C with them opened. Note that this is at 4ghz 1.45v with CnQ off. If I lock it down to two cores, my idle core temps(readable when locked) actually plummet down to 7-9C, with idle CPU temps 2-3C higher.

I honestly think that some C3 Denebs have the same sensor offset as the Thubans do. Especially since I have doubts that an unmodded H50 like mine can even perform this well. I did have similar idle temps as you did when I had my 955 C2: 3.8ghz 1.45v = 33C idle 46C load.


----------



## Liranan

Well, my H70's turned out to be a total waste of money. It's defective and I can't RMA it because PC equipment are banned from shipping to the US. Corsair have an office in Taipei but can't send my cooler there. I requested additional help from Corsair three days ago, in solving this problem, but haven't heard from them yet.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987;12517285*
> im sorry guys i strayed away
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but it was for a good cause went full water
> before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not done just got tired of it sitting ouside my case, have diff tubing and all just watin for the other rad and gpu block to some from ups
> after


Welcome to the Rasa Club. Lots H50/H70 owners make the switch (myself included). H50/H70 gives you a taste of what watercooling can do. Inevitably people want more. I like to troll this forum for sentimental reasons (still own the H50, its sitting in the crawl space under the stairs...totallty unloved now). My temps dropped 12 C with the Rasa 750 RX360 kit (amd 965 CPU) and that was after I did everything possible to the H50 (i.e. lapped, shrouds, push/pull, intake, 2000 rpm 38 mm fans). I am extremely happy with my RASA kit plus its super inexpensive and super quiet (the RX120 is only a few bucks more than an H70!!).


----------



## jnabq

Added myself finally. Thanks for all the info shared! Just using the "level up" for an OC of 3.0 atm. Really liking the pair of AP14's, in push/pull intake. Makes for a real quiet setup with the H50.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


Sure I suppose? My chip is no different from yours or Beck's (aside from being able to reach 70C instead of just 62C for max temp). Stock speed is 3.2ghz as a dual/unlocked quad.

My idle CPU (not core, since unlocking makes core temp 0C) temp is about 24-25C with my window closed and 20-21C with them opened. Note that this is at 4ghz 1.45v with CnQ off. If I lock it down to two cores, my idle core temps(readable when locked) actually plummet down to 7-9C, with idle CPU temps 2-3C higher.

I honestly think that some C3 Denebs have the same sensor offset as the Thubans do. Especially since I have doubts that an unmodded H50 like mine can even perform this well. I did have similar idle temps as you did when I had my 955 C2: 3.8ghz 1.45v = 33C idle 46C load.










But your Sig runs a dual core there is a huge difference between your CPU and our CPUs. No offense meant, but there just is. Kinda like comparing a K6 to yours I'm afraid.









Now it's entirely possible the sensors are outta sorts but from what I understand it's in the sockets not the CPU where the problem lays. Thubans have a -10c fluctuation and AMD says that it's in the socket. Where as ours(yours included) only have a ~-1c to -3c fluctuation in reported temps so far as I know. His is -10c different when it really should not be. Not unless he's running a full h2o system anyway. See this is why I need the input so I can see if there is something that he's done and if that is a true temp.

Cause if it is then I should be able to bring my temp down even further.









~Ceadder


----------



## Willhemmens

1+ Thubans sensors are normally wrong although in the Bios they do seem to be very accurate. When I was cooling one down to -50'c it was reading exactly the same as the temp that the unit gave.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*









But your Sig runs a dual core there is a huge difference between your CPU and our CPUs. No offense meant, but there just is. Kinda like comparing a K6 to yours I'm afraid.









Now it's entirely possible the sensors are outta sorts but from what I understand it's in the sockets not the CPU where the problem lays. Thubans have a -10c fluctuation and AMD says that it's in the socket. Where as ours(yours included) only have a ~-1c to -3c fluctuation in reported temps so far as I know. His is -10c different when it really should not be. Not unless he's running a full h2o system anyway. See this is why I need the input so I can see if there is something that he's done and if that is a true temp.

Cause if it is then I should be able to bring my temp down even further.









~Ceadder










Yes, but my dual core is unlocked into a quad core and a B55 is essentially a 955, as their specs are completely the same except for max operating temp. I fail to see what their differences are, unless you're thinking I run my chip as a dual core? I guarantee you that it's a quad at 4ghz.


















Also, what I was saying was that my temps seem to be about -10C of what they really should be as I did have a 955 C2 before and comparing it to my B55 (essentially the same chip) my temps are about ~7-9C lower than what I had with my 955. It's true that the 2-3C difference is there, but that's comparing my core temps to my CPU socket temps, which was the same difference with my 955.

I'm not trying to pick a fight or anything, but I just thought my system would be comparable to your guys' systems. If you still find it any different from yours, then I'll stop posting about this temp issue.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


Yes, but my dual core is unlocked into a quad core and a B55 is essentially a 955, as their specs are completely the same except for max operating temp. I fail to see what their differences are, unless you're thinking I run my chip as a dual core? I guarantee you that it's a quad at 4ghz.


















Also, what I was saying was that my temps seem to be about -10C of what they really should be as I did have a 955 C2 before and comparing it to my B55 (essentially the same chip) my temps are about ~7-9C lower than what I had with my 955. It's true that the 2-3C difference is there, but that's comparing my core temps to my CPU socket temps, which was the same difference with my 955.

I'm not trying to pick a fight or anything, but I just thought my system would be comparable to your guys' systems. If you still find it any different from yours, then I'll stop posting about this temp issue.


No need to stay out of it, just sayin that I'd like to know how he got that temp if he truly is running 21c at idle. Some folks believe Idle is at startup instead of letting the system get up to it's consistent run temp before making their report. Since I don't know I like to make certain and would like to know how he got it if the temp is spot on the mark.

I did think you might be running at dual core. But I wasn't sure there either. Thank you for setting me straight there.







My bad.

~Ceadder


----------



## phazer11

http://www.overclock.net/other-cooling-discussions/949268-help-choosing-cooler.html

Hi can anyone help me please? last post on page above


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phazer11;12528109*
> http://www.overclock.net/other-cooling-discussions/949268-help-choosing-cooler.html
> 
> Hi can anyone help me please? last post on page above


If you want a liquid cooler get H50 and mate another fan with it. The H70 is nice but it's just too expensive for what you can get from it in comparison to the $60 the Newegg has been asking for the H50+ a reasonable 12cm fan of the Yate Loon variety which is what the Corsair brand includes with all their fan cooled product.

If you want air then get either Noctua or get Megahelms. Both those coolers are very nice.

But to be honest their really isn't much of a temperature difference between Hseries and the Aircoolers I mentioned. I'm using the H50 in Push/Pull and my average temp when my system is running without worry is ~31c Minimum and ~37c load temps. Of course my system just went through a reseat and reroute of cables since I was redoing the TIM under the heatsink of my MoBo. You'd be hard pressed to find a Noctua running significantly cooler than my H50.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


There are a few factors in this:
Without stock air cooler no air spill to surrounding components - good to fit an extra spot fan. (My NB temps rose to 125C in games after fitting H50. That wont be the same for every mobo though.)

If the graphics card is the kind that effectively pumps its heat out the back of the case, and the case is in a restrictive position, you can be pumping warmed air back in with Corsair as intake.

If the graphics card just spreads its heat in the case extra case fans may be needed. When I water cooled the graphics cards I didn't need as much airflow on my NB.

Size of case and number of other fans can also affect whether intake works better for you. For most I think it will only be a small difference. Certainly it won't make much difference as long as there is plenty of airflow.

All that is just AFAIK.


Yep, I was messing around in my case after the overclocking and touched the chipset heatsinks....ouch.

So, I have added a chipset cooler (a blower) on one of the heatsinks. I can actually touch the heatsinks without ouch now. It also helped that I cut a hex hole in the bottom of the 600T and added another PWM fan as intake. I put a grill/filter on each side of the fan. You can really feel the cool air it's pulling into the case. I'm going to torture it a little tomorrow. I wonder how the temps will change....or if...


----------



## alancsalt

That's an unusual position for a corsair rad. I've seen them as inlet in the 5.25" bays, and as both inlet and exhaust at the rear, and at top rear...but I'd class yours as middle top.

If the hoses were long enough I guess someone *would* mount it at the bottom!

Looks like there's room in there for a 240 Rasa kit...







Just kidding.

Your case and lights look really good to me anyway. Nice work


----------



## phazer11

So the H50 stock has too much paste on it? And You recommend another fan and a gutted 120mm fan as a shroud?


----------



## [email protected]

No? The paste is just fine. I don't know why you think it's too much but it's thin and one of the best compared to Artic Silver 5.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


No? The paste is just fine. I don't know why you think it's too much but it's thin and one of the best compared to Artic Silver 5.


It really is too much. But that's easily remedied. Just scrape it off(perfect opportunity to raise the valleys on the surface by lapping the plate), roll it into a ball and reuse the appropriate amount. I use the same stuff(Shin-Etsu G751) that Acetek(the manufacturer) uses and only use an amount consistent to that of a small pea. That's more than enough to keep my CPU a chilly 29-32c consistently.









I just used the last of my G751 yesterday as a matter of fact. So it's time to get a couple more tubes. If I could get more than a half a gram I would be pretty happy. But only comes in half gram tubes from resellers.









Oh and the reason G751 is the best is that it's cure time is insignificant(~8hrs) whereas AS5 which is just as good has a 200 hour cure time. So if you have AS5 and can handle 8 and a half days of waiting to stoke the boilers by all means use it.









~Ceadder


----------



## phazer11

Yeah I just got a V6 cooler since lmao the H50 let my CPU get to 80C under Prime95 Blend with stock settings and lmao it was working I could feel it moving the liquid and I did remove some of the paste.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phazer11*


Yeah I just got a V6 cooler since lmao the H50 let my CPU get to 80C under Prime95 Blend with stock settings and lmao it was working I could feel it moving the liquid and I did remove some of the paste.


Not to call you a liar or anything, but I'm having a really hard time believing that. If you're anything like how I am, you have a contingency plan for such an extreme temperature set up in your BIOS.

But if it's true then why didn't you just send it in for an RMA and just run the stock cooler until it came back to you?

And a V6?!!! Really? I could see a Noctua D14 or Megahelms but a V6? You're better off running the stock cooler imho. Hell I could even see a V10 maybe a V8 but a V6?









Thanks for the Troll. I needed something to get me off this thing for a bit.









~Ceadder


----------



## cschweppe

Saw this thread tonight for the first time. Ive been absent from the boards for almost a year... busy with other stuff. but my g/fs wow rig(i think it used to be my COD rig...go figure) is using a corsair H50 pretty standard mounting location in front with dual corsair 120 fans used as an intake. 120 rear exhaust and 140 top exhaust fans. there is a 140 in the lower front that feeds the GPUS.
some quick pics the wire management is horrendous as HATE the V9 black edition.. i have a 600t but im not done modding it yet as soon as its ready ill build it...and get some new pics up. Specs are in my sig. Thanks guys!

This is the third H50 ive used in a project and in this setup the CPU never gets above 35 and idles around 25.


----------



## phazer11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12535532*
> Not to call you a liar or anything, but I'm having a really hard time believing that. If you're anything like how I am, you have a contingency plan for such an extreme temperature set up in your BIOS.
> 
> But if it's true then why didn't you just send it in for an RMA and just run the stock cooler until it came back to you?
> 
> And a V6?!!! Really? I could see a Noctua D14 or Megahelms but a V6? You're better off running the stock cooler imho. Hell I could even see a V10 maybe a V8 but a V6?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the Troll. I needed something to get me off this thing for a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I got a V6 as it was the only real worthwhile cooler in the store apart from the one in my sig ( I'm waiting for my Noctua to arrive ). Not a troll ,. May have to RMA the whole system now >v< it's not posting so now I just have an exceptionally cold Full Tower that freezes my toes off. I've done the cleartc jumper, removed the RAM, removed the CMOS, removed the powercord, pushed the power button 10 times and held it for 15 seconds on the 10th time, unhooked the cooler and video card to see if it was a power thing no luck. any ideas? Oh and I've tried inserting a flash drive and the dvd to activate the crash-free bios no go there either.


----------



## cschweppe

eh sounds like a powersupply to me. or a seriously busted MB... any bulging or busted caps?


----------



## phazer11

Nope no bad capacitors.
I'm going to blame ASUS this is the 3rd Motherboard already, and third processor, 2nd GFX card, luckily my HDD's, RAM, FANs, PSU, and backup GFX card have so far survived.


----------



## cschweppe

yikes, hate to hear that man. but blaming asus sounds fun. that ROG stuff is so elitist anyways... sounds like with your luck you should buy an origin or ibuypower...jk. the only thing that i can think of that would explain so many MBs Procs failing is that either your GPU or RAM might have something catastrophically wrong that is sending massive power spikes.... sounds ridiculous but its rare to kill so many of the same MB and Proc with the same setup every time... well assuming your OC'ing stays in the normal range.


----------



## phazer11

Well ok the first one was using the stock cooler and next thing I know I see blue smoke in the room. The last one I think the bios failed to tell the fans to do anything, and idk what to blame on this one.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phazer11;12537148*
> Nope no bad capacitors.
> I'm going to blame ASUS this is the 3rd Motherboard already, and third processor, 2nd GFX card, luckily my HDD's, RAM, FANs, PSU, and backup GFX card have so far survived.


I'm thinking it's your PSU. Because when I tried running a weaker PSU my system would only go to BIOS and that's as far as it would get. Wouldn't even Post. You could've also fried your CPU when it got up over 80c, that not be good for any CPU let alone an Intel processor. It's not the MoBo imho, though I could be wrong. It's always a possibility but when there are issues that aren't taken into account before an RMA they generally spring back to bite us in the ass later on.









Now me on the other hand my Optional 2 header croaked. Fan is working like a champ. LEDs' are lit up. But it's just dead. I tried changing Optional 1's fan to Optional 2 and same story. It's ramped up to max but no RPM showing in my PC Probe II display.

So I'm off to start the RMA process hope they're still Hotswapping RoG boards.









So I apologize for being skeptical and FWIW, I feel your pain.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## phazer11

Thanks I'm going to call Intel and ASUS tomorrow and give them what for.
Seems the PSU is still good it's booting up my other Desktop.
Nope not a power issue I just connected a 300W up to it as well no change. Ran PSU tester too it checks out fine. Anyone happen to know if ASUS support is open on Sundays?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phazer11;12537337*
> Thanks I'm going to call Intel and ASUS tomorrow and give them what for.
> Seems the PSU is still good it's booting up my other Desktop.
> Nope not a power issue I just connected a 300W up to it as well no change


You do realize that no 300w PSU can take the place of a 750w PSU?

Now being I don't know what your other system is(assuming your Sig Rig is similar) but if it's not the same you probably shouldn't take your diagnosis on face value. RMA your board that's fine. But at this point I would RMA every piece of it you can to minimize later issues.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## phazer11

I plugged the 300W in addition to my 650W. Can't RMA the PSU as I believe it's out of Warranty it's 2.5-3 years old. I was going to RMA the CPU, motherboard, and GFX card. I'll also RMA the RAM.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phazer11;12537337*
> Thanks I'm going to call Intel and ASUS tomorrow and give them what for.
> Seems the PSU is still good it's booting up my other Desktop.
> Nope not a power issue I just connected a 300W up to it as well no change. Ran PSU tester too it checks out fine. Anyone happen to know if ASUS support is open on Sundays?


I can tell you for a fact they are not.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phazer11;12537973*
> I plugged the 300W in addition to my 650W. Can't RMA the PSU as I believe it's out of Warranty it's 2.5-3 years old. I was going to RMA the CPU, motherboard, and GFX card. I'll also RMA the RAM.


I thought Ultra had a 5 year Warranty?


























~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## phazer11

Damn. Who do I complain to Q.Q
Was hoping I could complain enough that they would cut their losses and upgrade me XD. I mean 3 times is ridiculus Especially since the parts haven't been out for even 2 months.
Warranty is 3 years las it checked.I hope they give me what I paid for it instead of the 54.99 bull**** it is now. I paid $109 for it after rebates in 08.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

So what's better; an H70 or an H50 with an additional fan?


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


So what's better; an H70 or an H50 with an additional fan?


There real close from what I have seen, But ive only owned a H50


----------



## alancsalt

Main benefit on H70 seems to be down to the extra fan rather than the extra rad thickness. Don't know why. You'd think thicker rad would be better.


----------



## XtachiX

so it really doesnt make a difference between the h50 and h70?
of course putting into account the fact that the pump/res of h50 is bigger than the h70 but the radiator thickness is less than h70


----------



## Magus2727

Most people have only seen 1-2 deg change between H50 and H70... for some thats a few extra 100MHz of an OC. or a high OC being stable..


----------



## thecyb0rg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XtachiX*


so it really doesnt make a difference between the h50 and h70?
of course putting into account the fact that the pump/res of h50 is bigger than the h70 but the radiator thickness is less than h70



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


Most people have only seen 1-2 deg change between H50 and H70... for some thats a few extra 100MHz of an OC. or a high OC being stable..


I've seen ~4c degrees change. Worth the added price? No, not in my opinion. Next build will employ a RASA 360 kit. Same price as H70 with better fans, but much better performance and it looks cooler to boot.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Cyb0rg*


I've seen ~4c degrees change. Worth the added price? No, not in my opinion. Next build will employ a RASA 360 kit. Same price as H70 with better fans, but much better performance and it looks cooler to boot.










Yup, what he said. Guys, when you're ready to upgrade from the H50 forget the H70. Look at the Rasa kits. Price is not much more than the H70 but the performance difference is huge, plus it's fully upgradable if you want even more performance later on. On my 965 temp drop was 12 C at max load and yes it does look much better.


----------



## scaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Yup, what he said. Guys, when you're ready to upgrade from the H50 forget the H70. Look at the Rasa kits. Price is not much more than the H70 but the performance difference is huge, plus it's fully upgradable if you want even more performance later on. On my 965 temp drop was 12 C at max load and yes it does look much better.










True, but does it warrenty agains leaks? I just got an H50 from BestBuy on sale for 60


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scaz*


True, but does it warrenty agains leaks? I just got an H50 from BestBuy on sale for 60


Yes Corsair warranties against leaks. Two year protection services.









Oh wait you're asking about the Rasa... dunno, but I don't think they will since it's a kit and you have to do all the assembly.









~Ceadder


----------



## xP_0nex

Do any of you guys/gals use the sticky pads that come with the H50? I removed mine for my mainboard and now I need new pads, but then was told I don't need to use them.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xP_0nex*


Do any of you guys/gals use the sticky pads that come with the H50? I removed mine for my mainboard and now I need new pads, but then was told I don't need to use them.


I used them and they were too thick. I replaced them with 3m double sided tape which was half it's thickness and that works fine. You don't need them but it's best if you use them. Makes it easier to put everything together. Especially if you don't have a large enough cutout in your MoBo tray to hold it in place when mounting the cooler on the CPU.









~Ceadder


----------



## pwnography6

My H50 is in the mail and iv been thinking of a couple ways to install it.(anywhere but back fans there pre-occupied).

I have the antec df-85 and was thinking about installing the rad to the top 140mm fan as exhaust (via shroud), then running ducting from my front 120mm fan to the H50s stock fan as intake.Would this work?

Iv googled around and all i can find is ppl saying yes it works but becareful of turbulence. Avoiding turbulence and other suggestions?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pwnography6*


My H50 is in the mail and iv been thinking of a couple ways to install it.(anywhere but back fans there pre-occupied).

I have the antec df-85 and was thinking about installing the rad to the top 140mm fan as exhaust (via shroud), then running ducting from my front 120mm fan to the H50s stock fan as intake.Would this work?

Iv googled around and all i can find is ppl saying yes it works but becareful of turbulence. Avoiding turbulence and other suggestions?


Your CPU will likely only see a difference of a couple of degrees using ducting from your front fan. I'd try it without ducting first.

Are you only going to use the one H50 fan, or are you planning on adding a second one for push/pull? I think using push/pull would make more of a temp difference than using ducting.

Nice case btw...

Quote:



Originally Posted by xP_0nex View Post
Do any of you guys/gals use the sticky pads that come with the H50? I removed mine for my mainboard and now I need new pads, but then was told I don't need to use them.


You don't need them at all. They're only to make the rear support plate stick to the board while your installing the screws from the other side. I didn't want to have sticky crud on my main board so I didn't use them at all. Of course, you MAY need someone to hold some part for you while you're installing without the sticky pads. Personally I didn't have much of a problem.


----------



## pwnography6

something like this -top of case>140mm fan>shroud>rad>120mm fan> ducting to front 120mm fan. The front fan being intake and the 140 being exhaust. If u dont get wat i mean i have hightech paint diagrams lol.
Im not planning on major OCing on this rig i got a rasa kit coming for a dif rig for that.


----------



## alancsalt

Somewhere back there, deep in this thread, another guy tried ducting. Dunno how that panned out. He started and then didn't post much more I think.


----------



## pwnography6

yeah i saw them posts, ima try it it's only a 15 dollar experiment and as i said this isnt my big OC rig i might tamper with it a lil but nothing huge. Thats next build


----------



## pengu56

Went ahead and added myself to the owner list on FP. Member #800!









With my Core i3-550 on stock settings, I'm getting 21C at idle so I'm pretty happy. Will eventually push/pull on the H50, but still debating between Blade Masters or Gentle Typhoons.


----------



## kirksblood

was a little pain to stick it in midsize case but hey its me first water cool and overclock so i didnt know what size case i needed now that i do know i might buy a bigger one or just make my own using push and pull but will
add after market fans in afew days will update pic


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kirksblood;12577759*
> was a little pain to stick it in midsize case but hey its me first water cool and overclock so i didnt know what size case i needed now that i do know i might buy a bigger one or just make my own using push and pull but will
> add after market fans in afew days will update pic


If you don't mind big cabinets the 932 was built for that cooler.









I have mine set up in a Push/Pull Exhaust configuration. With a lapped CPU I run in the chilly 30s' c at or just above Idle. That's with 1 ODD up front, no fan control and all the shipping plates intact and blocked off with electricians tape for dust prevention.

I run Yate Loon High Speed Fans. a 140 in the rear Exhaust 120(x2) in P/P on the H50 and 1 on the floor to up the intake a bit since I run 3 sets of Exhausts and 2 Intake 200mm Cooler Master fans.

I really recommend these cabinets.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;12566120*
> Somewhere back there, deep in this thread, another guy tried ducting. Dunno how that panned out. He started and then didn't post much more I think.


hello =) might of been me ? i drew up a few diagrams of a ducted setup but then bought an antec 1200 and had other plans .. though coming to think of it now i wouldnt mind trying it out in my new case ..

For anyone interested ...


----------



## pwnography6

Yeah sort of like that but from front to top. Theres a youtube vid of a guy with a ducted H50 but his results looked sketchy . I cant imagine it would be a bad thing having a designated ducted airflow just for the H50 i guess we will c wen my parts get in.


----------



## alancsalt

Looks familiar :thinking:yeah, that's it.


----------



## Booty Warrior

Anyone know when the H60 is supposed to officially be released? I was hoping to get one in time for the Sandy Bridge recall, but its looking like that might not happen.

Those discounted H50s are looking better and better each day.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Booty Warrior;12579282*
> Anyone know when the H60 is supposed to officially be released? I was hoping to get one in time for the Sandy Bridge recall, but its looking like that might not happen.
> 
> Those discounted H50s are looking better and better each day.


fail linking a product

EDIT: lets try this again

http://amzn.com/B004MYFOE2


----------



## Booty Warrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12579375*
> fail linking a product
> 
> EDIT: lets try this again
> 
> http://amzn.com/B004MYFOE2


Ooh, good stuff! But what does "'Usually' ships within 2 to 4 weeks" mean? Is that like a pre-order or something?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Booty Warrior;12579536*
> Ooh, good stuff! But what does "'Usually' ships within 2 to 4 weeks" mean? Is that like a pre-order or something?


I don't think so, because it says it has been avalible since jan 7th. I also really wouldn't get the H60, unless it is a truely better block design.

I mean I would just stick to air cooling and see some benchmarks vs h70 and h50 before buying it. I dont know if it performs better or not.


----------



## Booty Warrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;12579592*
> I don't think so, because it says it has been avalible since jan 7th. I also really wouldn't get the H60, unless it is a truely better block design.
> 
> I mean I would just stick to air cooling and see some benchmarks vs h70 and h50 before buying it. I dont know if it performs better or not.


Well you have a phantom too so you know the deal with the side fan. I want to use mine since I'm running dual cards on air, and most decent air coolers would press right up against it. I can position the Corsairs out of the way though.


----------



## Ceadderman

Wow there are no Vidoe Reviews of this thing except for "Fast Pics"?









Hafta say I'm impressed with the square block. It looks like an EK setup but without the spigots coming off the front of it.









Great price too. It's basically a rewerked H50.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kirksblood;12577759*
> was a little pain to stick it in midsize case but hey its me first water cool and overclock so i didnt know what size case i needed now that i do know i might buy a bigger one or just make my own using push and pull but will
> add after market fans in afew days will update pic


Hey bud, I think that looks great in your mid case.


----------



## spaced_monkey

Quick research on the H60. Looks like corsair dropped Asetek and partnered up with CoolIT systems for the H60 line. And I just got an H50 on sale at the local Best Buy for $60.

http://www.coolitsystems.com/index.p...h-corsair.html


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spaced_monkey*


Quick research on the H60. Looks like corsair dropped Asetek and partnered up with CoolIT systems for the H60 line. And I just got an H50 on sale at the local Best Buy for $60.

http://www.coolitsystems.com/index.p...h-corsair.html


It is truely amazing how behind you guys are on the news. That is extremely old news about corsair and coolit. I mean this is OCN, the place where guys will post about there being something released within minutes of its releasing. come on now guys, chop chop, you have to get with the times.


----------



## alancsalt

Amazed huh?

EDIT: Post 16660, nice round number....


----------



## kirksblood

i added the thermaltake aftermarket fans to my corsair h50 and wow its loud but guess what i dropped almost 10 degrees and i changed the position of the fan heres the old setup








and the new setup


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spaced_monkey;12592991*
> Quick research on the H60. Looks like corsair dropped Asetek and partnered up with CoolIT systems for the H60 line. And I just got an H50 on sale at the local Best Buy for $60.
> 
> http://www.coolitsystems.com/index.php/en/about/press-releases/234-coolit-systems-announces-partnership-with-corsair.html


Yeah I think that Acetek pissed Corsair off when they started manufacturing the Kuhler which is a cross between the H50 and the H70. Using the H50 Rad and the H70 block.

I'm not sure but I think there are a couple other competitors that Acetek partnered with as well.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## scaz

I started my lapping process last night. Here is what the stock base looked like. I will try to take more pictures and I go through:


----------



## [email protected]

Nice.. we need to see a mirror finish reflection. Let me know how temps went. Every hardware usually have different results.


----------



## skwannabe

I finally got my motherboard replaced but I noticed for the black plate, the H50 provides a double sided black tape to hold the backplate onto the motherboard. What are you guys doing about the tape? Are you re-using it or using something else?


----------



## Mergatroid

You don't need the tape. It's only function is to hold the backplate in place while you mount the CPU block. I did without it.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kirksblood*


i added the thermaltake aftermarket fans to my corsair h50 and wow its loud but guess what i dropped almost 10 degrees and i changed the position of the fan heres the old setup








and the new setup


















Wow man! You need sunglasses to look at your PC! That's some pretty bright fans you got there.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


Nice.. we need to see a mirror finish reflection. Let me know how temps went. Every hardware usually have different results.


I think that he means something like this...



















But it doesn't have to be this shiny. The purpose of lapping the plate is to lower the valleys the TIM will fill on the surface of the pump. The closer the bottom of those Valleys are to the CPU the better the contact and heat dispersal of the block.









~Ceadder


----------



## KenjiS

Just picked one of these up for my next build...

From my understanding it works fine on sandy bridge right? Same mounting as 1156 if i remember right


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

I no happy right now.. my pump started making a huge buzzing noise and corsair wants it back... [email protected] im at stock now....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx*


I no happy right now.. my pump started making a huge buzzing noise and corsair wants it back... [email protected] im at stock now....










Sucks dude.









Did you try rapping on it with a pencil while it's running? That buzz generally comes from built up air being trapped. And generally cause it's not in an optimal setup. Not that you're guilty of tha... (







maybe I should try another word)... not that you did that. Just that sometimes if the Radiator or the pump are inverted in a negative manner air gets cycled through the system and into a spot where it can become tapped causing cavitation and then build up. I help a guy a long while back fix his issue w/o having to go the RMA route by having him rap on it with a pencil.

You might try it if it isn't gone already. Couldn't hurt anyway.









~Ceadder


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

I did have the pump turned side ways... that could of caused it... I do that tomorrow.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx*


I did have the pump turned side ways... that could of caused it... I do that tomorrow.


Yeah the thing not to do that I see done the most are the inlet/outlet mounted to the top, sideways where the Inlet is on the downside and the block being mounted with too much kink in the hose.

I've had people tell me there is no air in the system but knowing what I know about Radiators is you can never be sure of this because you'd have to completely submerse the radiator and inject the coolant into the system and do the same with the pump and then fit the two together under the surface. I sincerely doubt Acetek is doing this.

They probably fit the hoses to the Radiator, fill that side of the loop, fit the pump to it, flip it so that the liquid runs into the pump allowing any air in the system to become trapped in the back side of the radiator(as how I have my kit set up) and then they run the pump to leakdown test the system once all is well. It's not that difficult a process as near as I can tell. I come from a long line of cabinet and furniture makers and spent a lot of time in shops of all types. I can generally figure out how something is done just by looking at it.









~Ceadder


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

the thermal paste on it is shin etsu x23 correct?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx;12604500*
> the thermal paste on it is shin etsu x23 correct?


Nope it's G751 which is better.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

sweet... I needed more anyways... thnx cheadder


----------



## Ceadderman

Holy LLLL I just made 200 +Rep with 8 days to spare.









yvw DP.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## alancsalt

So what does that do? Free overclocked account? Anything else?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;12605853*
> So what does that do? Free overclocked account? Anything else?


Well it doesn't keep my 4.013Ghz OC stable that's for sure.









I thought what the hell, I'm RMA'ing the Board so I'll go for 4Ghz.

Got it by using Overdrive.

Only changed the multiplier to 20 and it came off without a hitch. Ran for about 15 minutes and then just restarted my system. No BSoD warning or anything else. Just dumped. So I'm thinking my voltage needs to go up a tad bit. Could be too that my PSU is not good enough to Run RAID, GPU, RAM at their current timings and a 4Ghz OC. I'll try the voltage thing first though cause I was running stock voltage I think.

Could be my core unlocker that resurfaced when I reset my CMOS to satisfy the Customer Support Peon that thought it might fix my Opt_2 issue. So I'm gonna hold off til I do another restart so I can disable that sucker.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## scaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];12597935*
> Nice.. we need to see a mirror finish reflection. Let me know how temps went. Every hardware usually have different results.


Will do. I was surpise at how rough the bottom of my cpu was. I spent atlest half an hour with just the 1000 grit sand paper to work out the major lines. When I get around to it I will start with the 1500, and then 2000. I am even temped to run it over to my in-laws, who is auto body guy, and borrow his buffer to make it really smooth. Although I suppose I could use my dremel with a pad to get the same results.

Almost done:

Before:










So Far:


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scaz;12607930*
> Will do. I was surpise at how rough the bottom of my cpu was. I spent atlest half an hour with just the 1000 grit sand paper to work out the major lines. When I get around to it I will start with the 1500, and then 2000. I am even temped to run it over to my in-laws, who is auto body guy, and borrow his buffer to make it really smooth. Although I suppose I could use my dremel with a pad to get the same results.
> 
> Almost done:
> 
> Before:
> [snipped images]


looks good but what does the razor blade test show?


----------



## tango bango

Please add me . I have the H50 on my Phantom.


----------



## Xyphyr

Please add me, my i5 750 runs at 33c idle, 63c max @4ghz.







I <3 this mITX.


----------



## mechanix565

please add me i have an h50 push/pull on my phenom II x6 1090t


----------



## mechanix565

does it matter what direction the radiator gets mounted on the h50 should the tubes at the top or bottom, as well as the pump let me know guys thanks!


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanix565;12629084*
> does it matter what direction the radiator gets mounted on the h50 should the tubes at the top or bottom, as well as the pump let me know guys thanks!


They have been mounted every which way.

I mounted mine with hoses at bottom so any bubbles would be trapped up top. I put the pump on so the writing was right way up. Who knows if it matters?


----------



## ls1chris

Count me in with my h50 sandy bridge at 4.0ghz.I really need to borrow a good camera again to get some better shots.Stil trying out some things with this rig as it just does not have the WOW factor to me


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ls1chris;12630637*
> Count me in with my h50 sandy bridge at 4.0ghz.I really need to borrow a good camera again to get some better shots.Stil trying out some things with this rig as it just does not have the WOW factor to me


Hey man you might wish to turn that radiator so the inlet/outlet is at the bottom. If not now, later. You'd be surprised at the results.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## ls1chris

I was going to do that but when i flip the rad to where the hoses are on the bottom the lines are very stiff and i am afraid over time they may leak due to the pressure.right now i am getting about 28-33c idle and on prime95 for 30 mins it got to 55-58c..During normal usage or gameplay it is in mid 40s.Do you think it would yield a increase over what i am seeing now?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ls1chris;12632094*
> I was going to do that but when i flip the rad to where the hoses are on the bottom the lines are very stiff and i am afraid over time they may leak due to the pressure.right now i am getting about 28-33c idle and on prime95 for 30 mins it got to 55-58c..During normal usage or gameplay it is in mid 40s.Do you think it would yield a increase over what i am seeing now?


No not that kind of change. I sincerely doubt that it would offer better temps unless air builds up and robs it of flow and then you would see a noticeable difference. Just sayin that if you hear a funky buzz emanating from your cooler that is probably the issue and that you may want to turn it to clear it up. You don't have to though. Some people seem to run fine with the I/O at the top. Should just be aware and what you can do to correct it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## grassh0ppa

Hello,

After a good few weeks of trying to find a good air cooling solution I've decided that I actually like the H50/60/70 design much better. I'm still having trouble deciding what fans to get for it, most people recommend the gentle typhoons, but I'm going for a black and white look and have it narrowed down to two fans:

GELID slient 120mm

and

Fractal Design 120mm

Both seem to be about the same, and I'd prefer the FD's as they are quieter but I havent been able to find out what kind of static pressure they have. The blades are fairly wide and thick - optimistically i'm thinking it has the same mmH20 as the GELID's.

Thoughts? Say they both have 1.6mmh20... is that good enough for the H60/H50 rads?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa;12635164*
> Hello,
> 
> After a good few weeks of trying to find a good air cooling solution I've decided that I actually like the H50/60/70 design much better. I'm still having trouble deciding what fans to get for it, most people recommend the gentle typhoons, but I'm going for a black and white look and have it narrowed down to two fans:
> 
> GELID slient 120mm
> 
> and
> 
> Fractal Design 120mm
> 
> Both seem to be about the same, and I'd prefer the FD's as they are quieter but I havent been able to find out what kind of static pressure they have. The blades are fairly wide and thick - optimistically i'm thinking it has the same mmH20 as the GELID's.
> 
> Thoughts? Say they both have 1.6mmh20... is that good enough for the H60/H50 rads?


Honestly I have found that cheap fans work REALLY well with the H50. I run Yate-Loon High Speed Silents in the Red Flavor. Kinda wished I'da gotten Yate-Loon Medium Speed silents cause the High Speed variety ain't that silent. Not bad just cannot dial them back to a reasonable level withouth sending my dual gang setup below 1200 rpm reported speed.

I got mine at Performance-PCs.com for a song. When you click on the Yate Loons they're pre-set for sleeving(weak sauce sleeving imho) @ $7 I think it was. Well you can set them to lack sleeving for -$3 which drops them to ~$4. My HSS fans dialed back to 80% keep my CPU a chilly 33c when browsing(Safari w/ 12 windows open) and less than that when idle.

This temp(34c at top left guage pod) was just after benching my RAM.
















The fans that come with the H Series are of Yate Loon variety so if you get the H70 I suggest finding a cheap fan to gut and make into a shroud to put in between the Pusher fan and the Radiator. You'll need 2.25" screws of the 6-32 variety as well if you run the typical 2.5" thick fans. And please do keep in mind my temps are a result of lapping my CPU and the overall ambient temp for where I live. Some people will have better or worse temps depending on these factors as well.









Oh and from what I gather, the smaller the gap between blades the better the Static Pressure for the fan. I'm not sure I myself believe it. I kind of liken it to the Rightie vs. Leftie matchup in Baseball. Some Managers swear by trotting out a Leftie lineup card to face a Right hander. While others just run what they brung. Some people get better temps than I do and run cheap fans some get worse temps and run "better" fans. I think a lot of it has to do with your setup, your locale and luck. The first two obviously matter more than the third factor but don't dismiss blind luck out of hand.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## ls1chris

I agree with Above,I dont think those fans would be very beneficial to the H50.I personally would recommend checking into some of the mentioned yate loons,Scythe,R4's, etc etc those seem to do very well with the h50 rad and pretty silent.I run my R4 at 1700 Rpm and it is very quite and keeps it good and cool and plus they are not very expensive.

I would get something with at least a mid 2.5-3.0+ h20 rating and 1500+rpm but that is just my personal opinion

Edit,that Gelid looks like a pretty good fan,You could always try it and if you was not happy you can replace them as 120mm fans are very reasonable,plus Gelid makes nice products


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa;12635164*
> Hello,
> 
> After a good few weeks of trying to find a good air cooling solution I've decided that I actually like the H50/60/70 design much better. I'm still having trouble deciding what fans to get for it, most people recommend the gentle typhoons, but I'm going for a black and white look and have it narrowed down to two fans:
> 
> GELID slient 120mm
> 
> and
> 
> Fractal Design 120mm
> 
> Both seem to be about the same, and I'd prefer the FD's as they are quieter but I havent been able to find out what kind of static pressure they have. The blades are fairly wide and thick - optimistically i'm thinking it has the same mmH20 as the GELID's.
> 
> Thoughts? Say they both have 1.6mmh20... is that good enough for the H60/H50 rads?


Personally, since the Gelids are 4 pin PWM I would go with them myself. I used Scythe PWM fans and a PWM splitter on my H70. This allows me to plug the fans into the CPU FAN header and let the main board control the RPMs. This makes it very quiet when idle and only louder when under load.

Certainly better than letting them run full tilt all the time. Of course, if you're going to use a fan controller on them then it shouldn't matter.

If you decide to go the PWM rout, make sure you use a splitter that provides the power to the fans from the PSU via 4pin molex, and not a splitter that pulls the power for the fans from the motherboard. This way you can use as hefty a fan as you like and it will draw it's power from the PSU.

Here's a good example of what to get:

http://usb.brando.com/pwm-fan-splitter-cable_p01520c046d015.html

If you're into building stuff yourself, here's a diagram:


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;12636008*
> Personally, since the Gelids are 4 pin PWM I would go with them myself. I used Scythe PWM fans and a PWM splitter on my H70. This allows me to plug the fans into the CPU FAN header and let the main board control the RPMs. This makes it very quiet when idle and only louder when under load.
> 
> Certainly better than letting them run full tilt all the time. Of course, if you're going to use a fan controller on them then it shouldn't matter.
> 
> If you decide to go the PWM rout, make sure you use a splitter that provides the power to the fans from the PSU via 4pin molex, and not a splitter that pulls the power for the fans from the motherboard. This way you can use as hefty a fan as you like and it will draw it's power from the PSU.
> 
> Here's a good example of what to get:
> 
> http://usb.brando.com/pwm-fan-splitter-cable_p01520c046d015.html
> 
> If you're into building stuff yourself, here's a diagram:


Back in the DDR2 days I would whole heartedly agree. However I do believe that you can run even simple 3pins on a MoBo w/o issue. All my fans are 3pin. In fact my CPU header is 4pin and the only reason there is one there is because my Splitter is of the 4 pin variety and both 3pin fans are plugged into the far Left of the connectors. Reports as a single entity unfortunately but my MoBo is handling them like a champ. Too bad not so with the 20cm Cooler Master fans on the Opt_2 header. Though I doubt it has anything to do with 3pin/4pin since the other two headers where that style of fan is plugged in at are reporting their speeds. It's just this one...









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12636172*
> Back in the DDR2 days I would whole heartedly agree. However I do believe that you can run even simple 3pins on a MoBo w/o issue. All my fans are 3pin. In fact my CPU header is 4pin and the only reason there is one there is because my Splitter is of the 4 pin variety and both 3pin fans are plugged into the far Left of the connectors. Reports as a single entity unfortunately but my MoBo is handling them like a champ. Too bad not so with the 20cm Cooler Master fans on the Opt_2 header. Though I doubt it has anything to do with 3pin/4pin since the other two headers where that style of fan is plugged in at are reporting their speeds. It's just this one...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Yes, you can run 3 pin fans on a motherboard. However, your motherboard may not control the RPMs of the 3 pin fans and may run them at 100% all the time.

This is not exactly a quiet solution (unless you skip plugging the fans into the motherboard and use a 3 pin fan controller).

The point is, if you want the RPMs of your fans controlled (which not everyone does) automatically, then PWM and a splitter is a great solution.

Edit: After a little added research I see that some newer motherboards can control the RPMs of 3 pin fans through voltage control. This seems a little odd to put voltage control on a motherboard when the PWM method is much more efficient, but if his board has this capability he may be able to use the 3 pin fans. Of course, if he wants to plug them into the CPU header, the PWM method may still be a better choice since it is not pulling the power to run the fans through the motherboard.

Just out of curiosity, what does this have to do with DDR2?


----------



## luchog

Finally got pics of my H70 rig. Spent the better part of an hour lapping the water block. Not a perfect mirror finish; but still pretty shiny. Re-seated with IC Diamond TIM. Replaced the stock fans with Akasa Vipers, ganged with a 4-pin PWM molex-power splitter. Had to put one of the fans on the outside of the case, since it would otherwise stick out too far and interfere with the 250mm side panel fan on my Thermaltake Armor case. I also added a scavenged 120mm grill on the outside to keep cables and fingers out of the fan blades. The airflow is quite a lot better with the Vipers than it was with the stock fans.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luchog;12636287*
> Finally got pics of my H70 rig. Spent the better part of an hour lapping the water block. Not a perfect mirror finish; but still pretty shiny. Re-seated with IC Diamond TIM. Replaced the stock fans with Akasa Vipers, ganged with a 4-pin PWM molex-power splitter. Had to put one of the fans on the outside of the case, since it would otherwise stick out too far and interfere with the 250mm side panel fan on my Thermaltake Armor case. I also added a scavenged 120mm grill on the outside to keep cables and fingers out of the fan blades. The airflow is quite a lot better with the Vipers than it was with the stock fans.


Wow, that's a fantastic job lapping the CPU block. It only took you an hour? That's amazing. Could you post what you did to get it that shiny in an hour? I wouldn't mind trying it myself.

I like the fans you picked. The yellow/black combo looks really sweet. Nice touch with the grill on the external fan.


----------



## [email protected]

What are your temps now?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;12636227*
> Yes, you can run 3 pin fans on a motherboard. However, your motherboard may not control the RPMs of the 3 pin fans and may run them at 100% all the time.
> 
> This is not exactly a quiet solution (unless you skip plugging the fans into the motherboard and use a 3 pin fan controller).
> 
> The point is, if you want the RPMs of your fans controlled (which not everyone does) automatically, then PWM and a splitter is a great solution.
> 
> Just out of curiosity, what does this have to do with DDR2?


Couldn't control your fans with a DDR2 board(at least none of the ones I've used) where my board now does control the speed of the fan. Granted it's a step down ramp up process using 10 based percentage starting at 25% but that's a pretty nice feature.

Can't wait to see what UEFI allows me to do when that Board Control takes over from BIOS.









@luchog... what's your temps? And if you don't mind me suggesting but drop the fan cooler on the RAM if you haven't already. Those things are pretty loud(dual 60s' in general) and as an added bonus they blow a lot of dust into your sticks and unoccupied slots.









I don't know why they don't get the fan manufacturers to build reverse bladed fans to blow out instead of in. I mean the fans are supposed to aid in cooling, since when did piling on dust aid in cooling anything?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12636457*
> Couldn't control your fans with a DDR2 board(at least none of the ones I've used) where my board now does control the speed of the fan. Granted it's a step down ramp up process using 10 based percentage starting at 25% but that's a pretty nice feature.
> 
> Can't wait to see what UEFI allows me to do when that Board Control takes over from BIOS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Yes, I have read up on the newer 3 pin fan control on some motherboards. Still though, if you would like a push/pull setup and to have both fans controlled by the CPU FAN header on the motherboard, PWM with a splitter is still the better way to go because it does not pull current to run 2 fans on one header through your motherboard.


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;12636352*
> Wow, that's a fantastic job lapping the CPU block. It only took you an hour? That's amazing. Could you post what you did to get it that shiny in an hour? I wouldn't mind trying it myself.


Actually, it was probably a bit over an hour, but not much.

Used some techniques I learned in the Army. Instead of going the sandpaper route like most people, I used whetstones and polishing compound with a soft, thin cotton cloth (plain white t-shirts seem to work best). I worked with a coarse water-stone (have to rinse the stone fairly frequently) until the original machine marks were gone. That was difficult, since the surface wasn't anywhere near flat, there was a noticible dip about a third of the way from one end.

From there, I switched to a whetstone wrapped in the thin cotton polishing cloth (I used a stone so I could be sure to get a truly flat surface), with a paste made from a medium-fine polishing compound (Red Bear IIRC), to polish out the stone marks. After that, I used the same setup with Brasso for a final polish.

The polishing technique was a fairly simple one. Held the water block steady in one hand, and polished using rapid, circular motion of the other hand. The trick is to simply keep moving as quick and consistently as possible, with a light but firm touch, and refresh the polishing compound about every 5-10 minutes. You don't need a lot of pressure; just a lot of movement. Like everything else, the key ingredient is elbow grease.









There was a bit of cleanup involved, but I was careful not to get any of the goop anywhere but the bottom of the block, so all I needed to do was a quick wipe-down with a wet towel.
Quote:


> I like the fans you picked. The yellow/black combo looks really sweet. Nice touch with the grill on the external fan.


Thanks







I'd like to say that I picked the fans strictly for the CFM and Static Pressure; but the colour scheme definitely had an influence as well.


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];12636355*
> What are your temps now?


I'm still trying to find a piece of free software that does accurate temp monitoring. RealTemp and CoreTemp either don't work or give me weird-ass results. Everything else I have to pay for, and I'm kinda broke after buying all the hardware.


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12636457*
> @luchog... what's your temps?


Don't have anything that accurately reports temps yet. Working on it.
Quote:


> And if you don't mind me suggesting but drop the fan cooler on the RAM if you haven't already. Those things are pretty loud(dual 60s' in general) and as an added bonus they blow a lot of dust into your sticks and unoccupied slots.


The sound isn't objectionably loud on the model I have. Case fans are actually louder. Don't have any unoccupied slots (full 8Gb of high-performance memory). I'm pretty strict about cleaning inside the case regularly (have a set of vacuum-cleaner attachments designed specifically for the purpose), so I'll keep an eye on my RAM for dust problems. Have a good positive pressure thanks to the intake fans (two Scythe GT-15s on the front and a big 250mm side fan), so dust buildup is low.


----------



## M0E

I got tired of the stock fans on my H70 being so loud. Added the resistors. Temps under stress testing went from 75c to 78c. Now its very quiet


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *luchog*


I'm still trying to find a piece of free software that does accurate temp monitoring. RealTemp and CoreTemp either don't work or give me weird-ass results. Everything else I have to pay for, and I'm kinda broke after buying all the hardware.










Go to Asus.com look up the Crosshair IV Formula and grab a copy of their PC Probe II. It's pretty dang good. Don't worry it's free as when you get to the brochure page you can download their zip files w/o issue. I run it and Hardware Monitor to reference my temps and they both run ~1c apart most of the time. PC Probe II has report adjustment feature that I have set at default which is ~5 seconds for up to the minute temp reporting.









~Ceadder


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Go to Asus.com look up the Crosshair IV Formula and grab a copy of their PC Probe II. It's pretty dang good. Don't worry it's free as when you get to the brochure page you can download their zip files w/o issue. I run it and Hardware Monitor to reference my temps and they both run ~1c apart most of the time. PC Probe II has report adjustment feature that I have set at default which is ~5 seconds for up to the minute temp reporting.








:


I've used Asus hardware almost exclusively for years. Completely forgot about the PC Probe utility; but I haven't been that impressed with previous versions. It didn't work well for my AMD64x2. Hopefully the latest one will work better with the Phenom II.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *luchog*


I've used Asus hardware almost exclusively for years. Completely forgot about the PC Probe utility; but I haven't been that impressed with previous versions. It didn't work well for my AMD64x2. Hopefully the latest one will work better with the Phenom II.


Works perfectly fine as near as I can tell. I have it on my sig rig with the listed CPU.









~Ceadder


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *luchog*


I'm still trying to find a piece of free software that does accurate temp monitoring. RealTemp and CoreTemp either don't work or give me weird-ass results. Everything else I have to pay for, and I'm kinda broke after buying all the hardware.










try HWMonitor.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


try HWMonitor.


Just a quick snippet of my PC Probe II next to HWonitor...










Unfortunately HW monitor doesn't give me a clear temp indication on the NB and PC Probe II doesn't give me same for the GPU.

But the temps seem to be dead on with the CPU (+/- ~1c) depending on the time of polling.









~Ceadder


----------



## ht_addict

Should the thermal compound be removed and replaced before installing? Ihave the stuff from Noctua as well as some Artic Silver 5


----------



## t77snapshot

Hello, I got an H50 on my secondary machine. It's an excellent cooler.


----------



## tha808evangelist

yeah i need to add another fan so i can have push/pull, i'm at 3.9 ghz with my phenom 965, and my tempuratures are like 50-51 c. and i have a radeon 5770 inside, and it does get hot in there, i need to go buy some more high power switchable fans


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12653241*
> Just a quick snippet of my PC Probe II next to HWonitor...
> 
> Unfortunately HW monitor doesn't give me a clear temp indication on the NB and PC Probe II doesn't give me same for the GPU.
> 
> But the temps seem to be dead on with the CPU (+/- ~1c) depending on the time of polling.


Just installed PC Probe II. My temp is currently 36C under moderate load (World Community Grid). Going to benchmark it when I get home from work.


----------



## {FWE}BadMonkey

i realize this is an old thread im looking at getting an H70 too because i cant populate all my DIMM slots other wise


----------



## gtsteviiee

Do you guys this http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Corsair+-+Hydro+Series+H50+CPU+Cooler/9503771.p?id=1218115623560&skuId=9503771&st=h50&cp=1&lp=1

plus this $20 rebate from microcenter would work?
http://www.microcenter.com/rebates/rebate_show.phtml?id=51694


----------



## EternalRest

Where can I get the screws to add a second fan for push and pull?


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EternalRest*


Where can I get the screws to add a second fan for push and pull?


Any good hardware store should have them. I just went down to my local Home Depot to get the longer ones that I needed to accomodate the gaskets and grill on mine.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EternalRest*


Where can I get the screws to add a second fan for push and pull?


Don't forget to make sure the screws you use are not too long (you may have to cut them). If they are too long you could damage the rad.

Does anyone have the correct length of screws he should use? They should be about the same as the H70 screws.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*


Do you guys this http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Corsair+...=h50&cp=1&lp=1

plus this $20 rebate from microcenter would work?
http://www.microcenter.com/rebates/r...phtml?id=51694


Nope you have to have a copy of your sales receipt that says "MicroCenter" on it in order to receive the rebate.









Still $60 is a pretty good deal at Best Buy. I hate em but have to admit that is pretty good.









~Ceadder


----------



## OolerTheInventor

I added myself to the list for this one


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OolerTheInventor;12664062*
> I added myself to the list for this one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*


Is that a CM 200mm fan I spy in the front of that case?









I have that exact same fan chassis an it sure looks like mine.


















~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## EternalRest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;12662445*
> 
> Does anyone have the correct length of screws he should use? They should be about the same as the H70 screws.


I sent an email to Corsair asking them how long should they be.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EternalRest*


I sent an email to Corsair asking them how long should they be.


Are you meaning the stock length bolts? I'm assuming not.

That's a bit like going to the Chevrolet Dealer in their sales division and asking "could you tell me how many fuel filters there are for a 327 Chevy? By the way mine is _modded._"

No offense meant but don't expect to hear anything back other than what the stock bolt lengths are.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EternalRest*


Where can I get the screws to add a second fan for push and pull?


Any hardware or hobby store should have them. I had them in my local Home Depot and others have gotten them at Lowe's.

Here is a link from the first post of this thread concerning the H50's FAQ:
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=79974

Here is the info for your answer directly from that link:

Q: I want to run push/pull, what screws will I need for a second fan?
A: The screw thread and length are 6 x 32 x 1 1/4"

#6 machine thread, 32 TPI (threads per inch), 1.25 inches in length.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw#U...hread_Standard

If you plan to do a fan+shroud on one side (or both), you will need 2-1/8" to 2-1/4" length screws. I accidently bought 2" ones before and it only went as far as my shroud (since both fan and shroud are 1" each).


----------



## Ceadderman

I just bought a pack of 3"(qty. of 5) 6-32 toggle screws and a pack of 6-32 hex nuts and made my own to fit 2 fans and 2 120mm fan silencers.










My entire setup fit within the height of the 1st two 5.25 bays and my ODD just barely clears the lock nuts on my manufactured length bolts. Painted them Satin Black to match the interior color and not have that silver zinc plating be an eyesore.

The bolts are appr. 2.25" in length in total to fit the shroud and the fan. I doubled up the hex nuts to keep any vibration from loosening the retaining nuts and dropping my P/P kit. This thing is prepared for a 6.0 shocker in CA if I were to take it there.









~Ceadder


----------



## phazer11

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OolerTheInventor*


I added myself to the list for this one




















OMG the horror! why would you use so many SSD's I know they're expensive and it's probably a RAID setup but DAMN. I like the case though NZXT modded?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


Any hardware or hobby store should have them. I had them in my local Home Depot and others have gotten them at Lowe's.

Here is a link from the first post of this thread concerning the H50's FAQ:
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=79974

Here is the info for your answer directly from that link:

Q: I want to run push/pull, what screws will I need for a second fan?
A: The screw thread and length are 6 x 32 x 1 1/4"

#6 machine thread, 32 TPI (threads per inch), 1.25 inches in length.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw#U...hread_Standard

If you plan to do a fan+shroud on one side (or both), you will need 2-1/8" to 2-1/4" length screws. I accidently bought 2" ones before and it only went as far as my shroud (since both fan and shroud are 1" each).


I just cut some _REALLY _long screws down to size to go through the push/pull config I had (while it lasted)....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phazer11*


OMG the horror! why would you use so many SSD's I know they're expensive and it's probably a RAID setup but DAMN. I like the case though NZXT modded?

I just cut some _REALLY _long screws down to size to go through the push/pull config I had (while it lasted)....


Corsair actually. Meh, it's too small for me.









~Ceadder


----------



## Turbo4Banger

Thats a cool setup you got there. But i wonder if that pump has enough flow now because i has to push all that coolant threw the extra line and reservoir.....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Turbo4Banger*


Thats a cool setup you got there. But i wonder if that pump has enough flow now because i has to push all that coolant threw the extra line and reservoir.....


Actually, I think it probably has better flow since it has gravity on its side. Being that it dumps into the top of the Res and gravity helps feed the system it may actually lessen the amount of suction required to flow over that distance if there were no Res in the loop. Outlet is left tube of the Block.









~Ceadder


----------



## luchog

Can't post a screenshot right now, since my internets are down at home; but my current temps are 26C idle temp, and 39C after 30 minutes of Prime95 torture test. Ambient temp is roughly 23C.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phazer11*


OMG the horror! why would you use so many SSD's I know they're expensive and it's probably a RAID setup but DAMN. I like the case though NZXT modded?

I just cut some _REALLY _long screws down to size to go through the push/pull config I had (while it lasted)....


His system specs say 32GB SSD/ 2.32TB Storage, and I only see one SSD myself. It looks like there are two or perhaps three hard drives in the front bays and one SSD in the rear bays.


----------



## tha808evangelist

what i did was use those short stubby big thread like screws for mounting case fans, of course there flat at the tip, i screwed them in from the inside of the case, they were just perfect to connect the fan to the rad, i added a second one yesterday for push/pull action, and my temp is 48 c, full load, smp folding client, 3.9 ghz, im very happy, but i want to get some yate loon, fans from directron.com, sat, or the silverstone ones, which ever they have sat.


----------



## sockpirate

can any of you recommend the best aftermarket fans for the H70? Currently running in my HAFX as a rear intake with push pull configuration. Ditched the stock fans and tossed on the fans that came with my FRIO (i like the fan control nobs) With my current set up im getting around 26c-30c idle depending on my ambient, when gaming with a 4.1 OC nothing above 45c and depending on the OC in prime 95 currently nothing goes over 65c.

Also wanna try a new thermal paste other than arctic silver 5 , what do you guys consider to be the best thermal paste out there. I don't really have a budget.


----------



## nerdybeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate;12677662*
> can any of you recommend the best aftermarket fans for the H70? Currently running in my HAFX as a rear intake with push pull configuration. Ditched the stock fans and tossed on the fans that came with my FRIO (i like the fan control nobs) With my current set up im getting around 26c-30c idle depending on my ambient, when gaming with a 4.1 OC nothing above 45c and depending on the OC in prime 95 currently nothing goes over 65c.
> 
> Also wanna try a new thermal paste other than arctic silver 5 , what do you guys consider to be the best thermal paste out there. I don't really have a budget.


I like the Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP series. I got the AP-15's, which I run at ~1400rpm (using Corsair voltage restrictors). They are almost silent at this RPM, and even at their max, they are still very very quiet.

Our temps are very similar. My ambients are ~65-68F, and I never go over 30-31C on idle. With my 4.0 OC, gaming never takes me above 42-45C. My full loads on prime95 after about 3+ hours take me upwards to 70-72C, however that's with the low RPM on the GT AP-15 fans, and different CPUs.

Either way, I would recommend the Gentle Typhoons. If you like to keep your rig quiet and cool, try these out. Lots of info on them in the Gentle Typhoon Club link in my sig!

I use Shin Etsu X23 TIM. I have used AS5 also, and never really noticed much difference in temps to be honest.


----------



## alancsalt

AS5 takes 200hours to cure. That's meant to include some shutdown time. I use MX2 or MX3.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nerdybeat;12677703*
> I like the Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP series. I got the AP-15's, which I run at ~1400rpm (using Corsair voltage restrictors). They are almost silent at this RPM, and even at their max, they are still very very quiet.
> 
> Our temps are very similar. My ambients are ~65-68F, and I never go over 30-31C on idle. With my 4.0 OC, gaming never takes me above 42-45C. My full loads on prime95 after about 3+ hours take me upwards to 70-72C, however that's with the low RPM on the GT AP-15 fans, and different CPUs.
> 
> Either way, I would recommend the Gentle Typhoons. If you like to keep your rig quiet and cool, try these out. Lots of info on them in the Gentle Typhoon Club link in my sig!
> 
> I use Shin Etsu X23 TIM. I have used AS5 also, and never really noticed much difference in temps to be honest.


AS5 is better in temprature not so good in cure time. Whereas Shin-Etsu G751 is the same in temp as AS5 and has ~8 hour cure time. And is cheaper too.









Oh and just for shiggles I wouldn't get anything super spensive to run on the HSeries. Just grab some cheap Yate Loons in the Medium range and those should do just fine for you unles ya gots a fan controller and can dial High Speed Silents to a livable decible.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## sockpirate

sweet guys thanks for the reccomendation , was probably gonna go with this fan.

Also, my H70 sometimes makes noises , im guessing its coming from the pump ? It will happen for a couple of minutes then goes away , is this normal ?


----------



## moowey

Here's My H70











Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate;12678040*
> sweet guys thanks for the reccomendation , was probably gonna go with this fan.
> 
> Also, my H70 sometimes makes noises , im guessing its coming from the pump ? It will happen for a couple of minutes then goes away , is this normal ?


What I've found is if the rad is above the pump (upper exhaust location laying horizontal) it will make gurgling noises for a bit (air in system) then quiet down.


----------



## tha808evangelist

does any body know if this will be a good static pressure fan for one side of my rad on the h50??


----------



## tha808evangelist

opps! forgot to paste!!

# Specifications: Model: EC3007M05CA,
# Voltage VDC: 5;
# Current AMP: 0.10,
# Input Watts: 0.50,
# Fan Speed: 8000,
# AirFlow CFM: 2.95,
# Pressure MMH2O: 2.37,
# Noise dBA: <20.
# Ball-Bearing.
# CE Approved.
# Power Connection: 3-Pin PC power connector.
# Dimension: 30 x 30 x 7mm


----------



## tha808evangelist

it's an evercool,


----------



## XtachiX

^ the edit button works you know XD


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sockpirate*


can any of you recommend the best aftermarket fans for the H70? Currently running in my HAFX as a rear intake with push pull configuration. 
(...)
Also wanna try a new thermal paste other than arctic silver 5 , what do you guys consider to be the best thermal paste out there. I don't really have a budget.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *nerdybeat*


I like the Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP series. I got the AP-15's, which I run at ~1400rpm (using Corsair voltage restrictors). They are almost silent at this RPM, and even at their max, they are still very very quiet.


The GTs have good CFM and noise, but the static pressure is pretty low. They're better as case fans (I have two for intake). They'll work well as long as you're not pushing things too hard.

I'm using Akasa Vipers in my sig rig. A little more noise than the GTs, but not much; and a much higher static pressure. Idles at 26C, maxes out at 40C after 8 hours of Prime95; with a 23-24C ambient temp and stock 3.5Ghz. The fun part of testing them was killing Prime95 and watching the temps fall to 28c in less than 2 minutes. Those things push a lot of air through the rad.

For TIM I'm using IC Diamond. Reviews for it aren't spectacularly ahead of other high-end TIMs, but it's still one of the best available. Bit pricier than most others, though; and kind of tricky to apply (doesn't stick well, and it's pretty thick compared to the Shin Etsu stuff). I found an X pattern seems to work well.


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tha808evangelist*


does any body know if this will be a good static pressure fan for one side of my rad on the h50??


Way too small for an H50 rad. Googled for Evercool EC3007M05CA, and all I found were 30mm fans. The rad uses 120mm.


----------



## ckybam3

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tha808evangelist*


opps! forgot to paste!!

# Specifications: Model: EC3007M05CA,
# Voltage VDC: 5;
# Current AMP: 0.10,
# Input Watts: 0.50,
# Fan Speed: 8000,
# AirFlow CFM: 2.95,
# Pressure MMH2O: 2.37,
# Noise dBA: <20.
# Ball-Bearing.
# CE Approved.
# Power Connection: 3-Pin PC power connector.
# Dimension: 30 x 30 x 7mm


the cfm and static pressure on this thing is horrible.its because its a very small fan. Do yourself a favor and get a scythe gentle typhoon 15 or if your on a budget 2x medium speed yates work great.


----------



## jethro_static

Hi! I'm sorry to hi-jack the thread but I have quick question. My CPU temps on my i7 Stock speed hover around 38C to 42C w/o running any program. I am still using the stock H50 fan as an intake. Is that normal? Seems like a little hot to me. I've search the net but I cannot get a correct answer since everyone's temps is on overclocked speed.


----------



## Ghilly

Hi, +1 owner here
Sorry for the terrible phone pics.


----------



## tha808evangelist

so the 15 is what i want to compare to?

1,850 rpm-speed

28 dBA- noise

98 m³/h- airflow

0.083- amps


----------



## Robilar

I just put an H50 in my media pc.

Not overly impressed with the temps. I'm using the stock fan and an Arctic Cooling F12 in a push pull config.

3.8ghz on an i5 760 at 1.22vcore and temps seem pretty high under prime?


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jethro_static;12683123*
> Hi! I'm sorry to hi-jack the thread but I have quick question. My CPU temps on my i7 Stock speed hover around 38C to 42C w/o running any program. I am still using the stock H50 fan as an intake. Is that normal? Seems like a little hot to me. I've search the net but I cannot get a correct answer since everyone's temps is on overclocked speed.


That's far higher than I got on my stock H70 on idle prior to modding it. Sounds like there could be a few issues. I'd definitely upgrade the fan(s), and if you're only using one fan, I'd recommend adding a second for push-pull. Also, did the waterblock/pump seat cleanly? If you had any problems seating it, or the screws weren't tightened down properly, it may have left air pockets in the TIM, which would reduce cooling ability. Also, you want to make sure that the header the pump is plugged into is running it at max speed, not variable speed.


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar;12683758*
> I just put an H50 in my media pc.
> 
> Not overly impressed with the temps. I'm using the stock fan and an Arctic Cooling F12 in a push pull config.
> 
> 3.8ghz on an i5 760 at 1.22vcore and temps seem pretty high under prime?


I noticed that my temps are a lot better after modding my H70. I can't say how much difference is from the new fans, and how much is from lapping the waterblock/pump; but I've gotten a roughly 8C degree temp drop at idle; and at least that much under load.


----------



## jethro_static

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luchog;12684886*
> That's far higher than I got on my stock H70 on idle prior to modding it. Sounds like there could be a few issues. I'd definitely upgrade the fan(s), and if you're only using one fan, I'd recommend adding a second for push-pull. Also, did the waterblock/pump seat cleanly? If you had any problems seating it, or the screws weren't tightened down properly, it may have left air pockets in the TIM, which would reduce cooling ability. Also, you want to make sure that the header the pump is plugged into is running it at max speed, not variable speed.


Yeah, That's what I figure. I will recheck everything and keep what you said in mind. I'm sure it's not normal coz I know people that have lower temps on air. Right now, I'm still looking for some screws that I can use for another fan. It's not installed right now so yeah, I can fresh install the unit again. Thanks for the tip.


----------



## alancsalt

Temperatures on an i7-970 are not particularly comparable to an AMD Phenom II X4 970 Black. I would not worry so much about idle temps.

Load temps are the ones that matter, and even then are not accurate, but at least tell you how far from cpu throttling you are.

Reported Temperature = TJMax minus the Digital Thermal Sensor reading

TJMax is said to be 100. Is this correct? The truth is that there is no documented correct value. All software is guessing.
Quote:


> The only documentation ever published by Intel calls this value TJ target and they've said that this is not a fixed value. It can and does vary from one CPU to the next with the same model number and in my testing it also varies from core to core on the same CPU. Your core 1 reading much lower than the other 3 is a good indication of that.
> 
> These sensors are designed for thermal throttling and thermal shut down control and are accurate enough for those purposes. For any other purpose like accurate temperature reporting, the 45nm Core 2 Duo/Quad sensors are crap with a long list of known issues. 100% accurate temperatures from these undocumented sensors from idle to TJMax is simply not possible.


That's from UncleWeb on Xtremesystems who wrote RealTemp
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=179044

Not much change in Intel chips after that.


----------



## grassh0ppa

Will this be upgraded to the H50/60/70 club soon?

Also, I noticed the stock fans for the H60 are considerably better than the H50 fans. 75cfm, 30dba and something like 3.6mmH2O. How would you get a 2nd stock fan? They seem pretty ideal. Otherwise I'm just gonna go with some S-Flex fans


----------



## sockpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubfoot;12680625*
> What I've found is if the rad is above the pump (upper exhaust location laying horizontal) it will make gurgling noises for a bit (air in system) then quiet down.


yeah exactly it makes a gurgling noise every so often, then just stops almost completely silent after noise subsides.


----------



## tha808evangelist

just as i suspected, i changed the thermal paste from the white kind to the grey kind, and changed fans around, from the stock h50 fan in the back, to moving it to the front, and a coolermaster green led i think it's like 90 something cfm, in the back and the stock fan in the front, and before my max @ load was like frightening 51, and now the max is 45!!!!!!!! and im folding -smp on all 4 cores!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i also forgot to mention that i have a pci card slot vantech double fan that i moved from under my 5770, to moving the 5770 to the bottom pci slot and moving the card fan to the top.


----------



## VozVN

Hi guys. I'm building a new i5 SB system, and was pretty much ready to grab a D14 until I saw the H50 on sale @ Best Buy the other day and just had to bust out my coupons and get it for $35. It was 100% impulse buying... I didn't think anything until I got home, now i'm all kind of confused







. Does this cooler do a moderate job with a 2500k @4.2-4.5Ghz? I'm not too crazy about low low low temp, just a safe max during gaming and some headroom for the summer. Does setting it up for exhausting through the rear decrease performance by a lot? I have a San Ace G9 i'm gonna pull out of the current system that i'd love to find use for. I suppose it should be the Push fan? a Kaze 3k for Pull is ok? Will I have a lot of trouble mouting 38mm fans?
I apologize if these questions have all been answered, but I set up the forums for 100 posts/page and there are still 168 pages... my eyes are getting blurry and I can't concentrate when reading anymore








H50 veterans please help


----------



## soarky

Ok, so first build ever. Originally with my phenom's stock heatsink, i was running 27C on idle and around 56C on 100% load. This was not OC'ed at all. I did however unlock the 2 latent cores on my Phenom. I dropped this bad boy in there and turned into push pull, and all of a sudden im at 18C idle and 34C fully loaded for an hour. WOW!

Thats a 23C drop in temps...that's ridiculous


----------



## nerdybeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soarky;12689629*
> Ok, so first build ever. Originally with my phenom's stock heatsink, i was running 27C on idle and around 56C on 100% load. This was not OC'ed at all. I did however unlock the 2 latent cores on my Phenom. I dropped this bad boy in there and turned into push pull, and all of a sudden im at 18C idle and 34C fully loaded for an hour. WOW!
> 
> Thats a 23C drop in temps...that's ridiculous


What kind of temperature reading software are you using? What are your ambient temps? ~65F idle on your processor?

Besides that - mount looks good, grats on your first build, and welcome to OCN!


----------



## nova_prime

still debating between h60 vs h70 vs Antec 620 h20....


----------



## seesee

h70 seems quite reliable


----------



## alancsalt

Antec 620 h20 looks like a h50 with different hoses. Probably another side deal by Asetek. The H60 is a Cool-it (Eco?) with a h50 rad?


----------



## tha808evangelist

right now my temp is 43 full load, -smp folding, for 8 hours straight!!!!!! it's had good temps since moving the stock fan to the front and a coolermaster green led fan to the back for push pull and changing the tim paste from white to grey.


----------



## seesee

anyway wanted to ask..

on load I get 70 70 70 69, my room temp is about 28

is this normal?


----------



## soarky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nerdybeat;12690431*
> What kind of temperature reading software are you using? What are your ambient temps? ~65F idle on your processor?
> 
> Besides that - mount looks good, grats on your first build, and welcome to OCN!


The tricky part of unlocking the Phenom II x2's is that after the unlock, it will no longer read each core in any program (apparently it's a common issue). It will read just the whole chip in it's entirety however. I've used MSI Control Center and SpeedFan and some other programs and they all seem to come up with the same temps within a degree or 2 celsius. Ambient is about 65 F during the readings.

BTW-my case sucks for cable management if you couldnt tell.


----------



## TronRR

Temps after I had finished playing B2BC for a few hours.I always keep my bedroom window cracked with a small fan circulating air.Outside was around 45f.


----------



## cjc75

Hey guys, I recently made some changes regarding my H50; where as originally it was mounting on the rear of my case, running as an exhaust...

Well I decided to experiment a little, and moved the Rad to the front of my Case, mounting it into the 5.25 bays (zip ties!). I removed the shroud from the exhaust side of the rad and mounted my R4 directly onto the Rad, then left the intake Shroud and intake R4 fan as they were.

Then I mounted an R4 that I took off my side panel, and put it directly on the rear of the case to run as exhaust.

I've a remarkable success in that my temps dropped down nearly 8c while idling on the Windows desktop, and under moderate load my temps went down 4c... and under extreme heavy (Prime95) load I've seen a 10 - 12c drop!

However, I am looking in my BIOS at the various fan speeds, and I am curious about something...

Now, the H50 Pump should be plugged into the POWER FAN on the Motherboard...

The intake Fan on the Rad should be plugged into the CPU FAN, on the Motherboard...

Now I have the Exhaust fan on the RAD plugged into CHASSIS FAN 1.

The rear case exhaust Fan plugged into CHASSIS 2.

Now here's my question...

In the BIOS my fan speeds read as follows.

CPU FAN - 1967 RPM
CHASSIS 1 - 1934 RPM
CHASSIS 2 - 1829 RPM
POWER FAN - 1379 RPM

Now remember, CPU Fan is the Intake Fan on the Rad, the Exhaust Fan on the Rad (push/pull) is CHASSIS 2.

There is a good difference of nearly 140 RPM...

Should they not be roughly equal, or is that ok? Or is this just because the Pull/Exhaust Fan on the Rad is just having to work harder and so is running a tad slower?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cjc75;12707291*
> CPU FAN - 1967 RPM
> CHASSIS 1 - 1934 RPM
> CHASSIS 2 - 1829 RPM
> POWER FAN - 1379 RPM
> 
> Should they not be roughly equal, or is that ok? Or is this just because the Pull/Exhaust Fan on the Rad is just having to work harder and so is running a tad slower?


I think you're right. I have cut a hole in the bottom of my case and added a fan there. The only way for it to get a good air flow is to let the front of my case overhang the front of my desk, otherwise there's no path for it to pull air from.

I've found that if I lay it flat on a table, the RPM of the fan goes down about 100RPM because it can't pull any air, but if I move it forward so it overhands again the RPMs shoot up 100RPM and the air flow really starts moving well.

You could always try swapping chassis fan 1 and chassis fan 2 since the RPM on fan1 seems closer to CPU fan, then you'd know for sure if the replacement fan also slowed down.


----------



## Shneakypete

does it make a difference when the radiator is mounted on the rear of the case and the tubing is on the top or the bottom?


----------



## Magus2727

Generally no it does not matter. if its on the rear of the case then its usually pushing air out so it will have slightly warmer air rather then the cool air for intake.

Tubes dont matter...


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cjc75;12707291*
> Hey guys, I recently made some changes regarding my H50; where as originally it was mounting on the rear of my case, running as an exhaust...
> 
> Well I decided to experiment a little, and moved the Rad to the front of my Case, mounting it into the 5.25 bays (zip ties!). I removed the shroud from the exhaust side of the rad and mounted my R4 directly onto the Rad, then left the intake Shroud and intake R4 fan as they were.
> 
> Then I mounted an R4 that I took off my side panel, and put it directly on the rear of the case to run as exhaust.
> 
> I've a remarkable success in that my temps dropped down nearly 8c while idling on the Windows desktop, and under moderate load my temps went down 4c... and under extreme heavy (Prime95) load I've seen a 10 - 12c drop!
> 
> However, I am looking in my BIOS at the various fan speeds, and I am curious about something...
> 
> Now, the H50 Pump should be plugged into the POWER FAN on the Motherboard...
> 
> The intake Fan on the Rad should be plugged into the CPU FAN, on the Motherboard...
> 
> Now I have the Exhaust fan on the RAD plugged into CHASSIS FAN 1.
> 
> The rear case exhaust Fan plugged into CHASSIS 2.
> 
> Now here's my question...
> 
> In the BIOS my fan speeds read as follows.
> 
> CPU FAN - 1967 RPM
> CHASSIS 1 - 1934 RPM
> CHASSIS 2 - 1829 RPM
> POWER FAN - 1379 RPM
> 
> Now remember, CPU Fan is the Intake Fan on the Rad, the Exhaust Fan on the Rad (push/pull) is CHASSIS 2.
> 
> There is a good difference of nearly 140 RPM...
> 
> Should they not be roughly equal, or is that ok? Or is this just because the Pull/Exhaust Fan on the Rad is just having to work harder and so is running a tad slower?


And as well as Mergatroid's comment, you've always got the manufacturer's tolerance of + or - 5% of specified speed ...


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;12708325*
> I think you're right. I have cut a hole in the bottom of my case and added a fan there. The only way for it to get a good air flow is to let the front of my case overhang the front of my desk, otherwise there's no path for it to pull air from.
> 
> I've found that if I lay it flat on a table, the RPM of the fan goes down about 100RPM because it can't pull any air, but if I move it forward so it overhands again the RPMs shoot up 100RPM and the air flow really starts moving well.
> 
> You could always try swapping chassis fan 1 and chassis fan 2 since the RPM on fan1 seems closer to CPU fan, then you'd know for sure if the replacement fan also slowed down.


You could put some feet or castors on it?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneakypete;12708564*
> does it make a difference when the radiator is mounted on the rear of the case and the tubing is on the top or the bottom?


It may not matter, but I preferred the tubes at the bottom so that any air in the system would be trapped at the top and not recirculate.


----------



## TronRR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;12708967*
> You could put some feet or castors on it?
> 
> I have mine set up this way after installing a bottom mounted fan inside the case facing toward the gpu.Have about a 1 1/2 inch gap between desk and case.Works well.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cjc75;12707291*
> In the BIOS my fan speeds read as follows.
> 
> CPU FAN - 1967 RPM
> CHASSIS 1 - 1934 RPM
> CHASSIS 2 - 1829 RPM
> POWER FAN - 1379 RPM
> 
> Now remember, CPU Fan is the Intake Fan on the Rad, the Exhaust Fan on the Rad (push/pull) is CHASSIS 2.
> 
> There is a good difference of nearly 140 RPM...
> 
> Should they not be roughly equal, or is that ok? Or is this just because the Pull/Exhaust Fan on the Rad is just having to work harder and so is running a tad slower?


One fan is driving the other fan, hence the slight speed variations. The Intake is driving the Exhaust so the Exhaust doesn't expend it's full energy and will report slightly lower speed. If they were side by side I'd be willing to bet that you wouldn't see but ~5rpm reported at any given time.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## HOTDOGS

Are these really much better than air cooling? Are these a nice niche between watercooling and air cooling?


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*


Are these really much better than air cooling? Are these a nice niche between watercooling and air cooling?


I would say occupy same cooling territory as top end air. Some top air coolers are a smidgeon better, but these take up less room, and don't conflict with tall ram sticks....

Rasa is good value.

Your choice.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


I would say occupy same cooling territory as top end air. Some top air coolers are a smidgeon better, but these take up less room, and don't conflict with tall ram sticks....

Rasa is good value.

Your choice.


Well if I had to choose on a $70 budget in a CM 690 II Adv. would this be a better bet?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*


Well if I had to choose on a $70 budget in a CM 690 II Adv. would this be a better bet?


I believe that it is. Especially if you have some cheap fans to make due until you can get whatever you want for Push Pull setup. I got Yate-Loon High Speeds in Red LED. If I had to do it over again, I woulda got my fan controller too or gone with the Medium Silents instead. These things can be noisy as all git out at 100% but not quiet enough running at 60 or 70%.









~Ceadder


----------



## HOTDOGS

What about CM R4s, they seem like they'd be nice. I have my intake outtake setup idea worked out I think. Will this be better than air for OC'n noticeably?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*


What about CM R4s, they seem like they'd be nice. I have my intake outtake setup idea worked out I think. Will this be better than air for OC'n noticeably?


I've heard good things about the R4s'. I just went with Yate Loon cause I could get their 120mm fans for ~$4 each not including shipping. I got 4 fans for ~$25(3+1 140mm) before shipping and it was a cheap way to light up the HAF without getting into CCLs and converters etc.









~Ceadder


----------



## HOTDOGS

Hmmm I just watched this:

[ame="[URL=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUxoFiFuS_g]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUxoFiFuS_g"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUxoFiFuS_g[/ame[/URL]]

Leaving me with the question if I can run that at full power on a UD3R and still connect a fan controller? I guess I just don't connect the H50? But how is it for OC'n? Better than air?! On a scale of 1-10, 10 being a custom water cooling setup and 1 being a Hyper 212+ with additional fan.

Also should I get extra TIM?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*


Hmmm I just watched this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUxoFiFuS_g

Leaving me with the question if I can run that at full power on a UD3R and still connect a fan controller? I guess I just don't connect the H50? But how is it for OC'n? Better than air?! On a scale of 1-10, 10 being a custom water cooling setup and 1 being a Hyper 212+ with additional fan.

Also should I get extra TIM?


1) ALWAYS plug in the H50. That's yer Pump bro. That goes on the PWR header. Fans onto your Controller or the CPU header, which should have something plugged in there or iggied in the event you don't have another fan.

2) Yes. In fact the pump should be set to run full speed at all times that the board will allow. I believe mine runs at ~1400 rpm.

3)It depends on your setup. It's a solid performer and gives Air a run for its money. If you're lapped you can expect some reasonable temps. When I OC'ed at 4Ghz my temps were ~40c at minimum load. Of course this is dependent on the ambient temp of your area. I would give it a scale of an 8 because it's a solid performer in the right circumstances. Don't expect to bolt it on stock and get these temps.

Also, I know that there are people that mounted theirs the way that video shows, but the temp difference between Int. and Ex. is ~3c either way depending on where you mount it in your case. Mine is in Exhaust and in fact tried to mount it Intake in the top spot in my HAF and it was hotter on Intake than Ex. If I were to run it Intake it would have to be in the front and facing out to the front where it can get maximum airflow. Also if you do get this I wouldn't mount it with the pipes at the top of the Rad. Much better option is to mount it pipes at the bottom where air can be directed away from the system by gravity.

If those pipes were separated it would be better but they aren't. Also mounting it like that doesn't give the system beneficial flow because the coolant doesn't get the full pass of the Radiator before it's back in the suction tube. At least as near I can figure that's how it would run anyway. I don't see any spot welds for a separator in between the pipes anyway.









~Ceadder


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


1) ALWAYS plug in the H50. That's yer Pump bro. That goes on the PWR header. Fans onto your Controller or the CPU header, which should have something plugged in there or iggied in the event you don't have another fan.

2) Yes. In fact the pump should be set to run full speed at all times that the board will allow. I believe mine runs at ~1400 rpm.

3)It depends on your setup. It's a solid performer and gives Air a run for its money. If you're lapped you can expect some reasonable temps. When I OC'ed at 4Ghz my temps were ~40c at minimum load. Of course this is dependent on the ambient temp of your area. I would give it a scale of an 8 because it's a solid performer in the right circumstances. Don't expect to bolt it on stock and get these temps.

Also, I know that there are people that mounted theirs the way that video shows, but the temp difference between Int. and Ex. is ~3c either way depending on where you mount it in your case. Mine is in Exhaust and in fact tried to mount it Intake in the top spot in my HAF and it was hotter on Intake than Ex. If I were to run it Intake it would have to be in the front and facing out to the front where it can get maximum airflow. Also if you do get this I wouldn't mount it with the pipes at the top of the Rad. Much better option is to mount it pipes at the bottom where air can be directed away from the system by gravity.

If those pipes were separated it would be better but they aren't. Also mounting it like that doesn't give the system beneficial flow because the coolant doesn't get the full pass of the Radiator before it's back in the suction tube. At least as near I can figure that's how it would run anyway. I don't see any spot welds for a separator in between the pipes anyway.









~Ceadder










+rep, Im going to mount it on the back just like the vid though except with the tubes at the bottom then? But will the tubes get all twisted that way if I want the Corsair logo up?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*


+rep, could you maybe link me a picture of how its tubes should be mounted? Im going to mount it on the back just like the vid though.


Just invert the process that Bill uses in the YouTube vid. Instead of mounting them so they will be at the top when the system is stood up mount them so they will be at the bottom most point.

I would link a pic for you but I only have pics of my setup being mounted in the top. Though you could go back a couple of pages in the thread and trip over one I'm sure.









But if you want a nice video representation of my system you could go to the link in my sig and then go to my home page so you don't have to be killed with the sound of my up close and personal cam work.


















~Ceadder


----------



## HOTDOGS

Amazing thanks! I will order by the end of this week along with everything else, I just need to find an i7 920 for sale on here.


----------



## Timechange01

Quote:



Originally Posted by *moowey*


Here's My H70












That H70 block looks extremely nice. Puts many waterblocks (aesthetically) to shame


----------



## InvalidUserID

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*


Also should I get extra TIM?


You shouldn't need any as the TIM on the pump is good stuff. You can pick some up if you like, in case you have to reseat the pump or something happens. Just remember that once you install the pump and make contact with the CPU, do NOT pull it back up. You'll create bubbles and that will affect your temps.

I have my H50 set up just like the video, I can PM you some pics if you'd like to see how the tubes look. My Corsair logo is upright.


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cjc75*


However, I am looking in my BIOS at the various fan speeds, and I am curious about something...

Now, the H50 Pump should be plugged into the POWER FAN on the Motherboard...

The intake Fan on the Rad should be plugged into the CPU FAN, on the Motherboard...

Now I have the Exhaust fan on the RAD plugged into CHASSIS FAN 1.

The rear case exhaust Fan plugged into CHASSIS 2.

Now here's my question...

In the BIOS my fan speeds read as follows.

CPU FAN - 1967 RPM
CHASSIS 1 - 1934 RPM
CHASSIS 2 - 1829 RPM
POWER FAN - 1379 RPM

Now remember, CPU Fan is the Intake Fan on the Rad, the Exhaust Fan on the Rad (push/pull) is CHASSIS 2.

There is a good difference of nearly 140 RPM...

Should they not be roughly equal, or is that ok? Or is this just because the Pull/Exhaust Fan on the Rad is just having to work harder and so is running a tad slower?


They should be roughly equal. If they're not, then the push fan is working harder to push the air through the rad and the exhaust fan than it would be if both fans were at the same speed. If the speeds have to be unequal, it's better to have the higher speed on the exhaust rad fan, than on the intake; creating a negative pressure that allows the intake rad fan to work more efficiently.

The _most_ efficient way to configure the rad fans is to get a splitter and plug both of them into the CPU Fan header. Not an ordinary Y-splitter, but one that has a Molex connector to power the fans, along with the other connectors.


----------



## Ceadderman

@HOTDOGS... If you do happen to get some TIM, get Shin-Etsu G751it's neck and neck with AS5 except for cure time. It's actually better since you don't have a 200hr cure time. ~8hrs in most cases as far as I am aware. It's also what is already on the Corsair Coolers.

~$4 for a .5oz tube depending on where you get it. Both Newegg and Performance-PCs.com carry it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## HOTDOGS

What is the difference between the CWCH50 and CWCH50-1 besides 20 dollars? Is the CWCH50-1 only one form of bracket? I need the one with the intel bracket


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


You could put some feet or castors on it?


When I first installed the fan I thought there was a channel under the bottom of the case all the way to the front fan air intake. I was wrong big time. I feel so stupid for not looking into it further, but since the power supply fan draws it's air from the bottom, I thought everything would be ok.

Since then I have found the power supply draws air from the rear of the case, while the channel I thought went all the way through to the front fan is actually blocked at the front.

ATM, it's not such a big issue because the case has more depth than my desk does...lol. So, it's not pushed in all the way, and there is a large gap at the bottom allowing air to flow to the bottom fan.

Instead of raising the case, which will decrease the room for ventilation at the top, I think I will modify the front bezel inside. I'll (hopefully) cut a hole inside to allow the bottom fan to draw fresh air from the same place as the front fan does. I'm not sure if this will work, but I have some parts arriving tomorrow so I will look into it further then.

I've attached a couple of pictures of my bone headed error and my PC's house. (no, really, I MEANT to do that). You can see the gap at the bottom front of the case the fan is using for ventilation.


----------



## HOTDOGS

So what is the difference?


----------



## RonB94GT

Nevermind


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RonB94GT*


Wrong place as this is not a Corsair but read it's as good if not a little better than the H70. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=30204


Eh, just another rebranded Asetek unit, smaller rad than the H70 (closer to the H50/60). Same rough finish on the waterblock/pump unit. Reviews show it cooling slightly better than the H50, nowhere near as good as the H70. Also has the same problem as the H50/60/70, hoses too short for large cases. The only advantage it has over either is noise; but once you upgrade to a push-pull rig to get decent cooling, noise levels are going to increase to be roughly equivalent. Best value for the money is still an H70.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Would I be better off using the supplied 120mm R4 that came with my CM 690 II Adv. over the the supplied fan with the H50?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS;12732711*
> So what is the difference?


Socket Support: AMD AM2, AMD AM3, Intel LGA 1155, Intel LGA 1156, Intel LGA 1366, Intel LGA 775 ...

http://www.corsair.com/gss/results/ajax/q/CWCH50-1/


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;12733912*
> Socket Support: AMD AM2, AMD AM3, Intel LGA 1155, Intel LGA 1156, Intel LGA 1366, Intel LGA 775 ...
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/gss/results/ajax/q/CWCH50-1/


So the exact same then...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS;12732213*
> What is the difference between the CWCH50 and CWCH50-1 besides 20 dollars? Is the CWCH50-1 only one form of bracket? I need the one with the intel bracket


Get the CWH50. If you need a bracket, I have all the Intel brackets still. Just lemme know an I'll ship it to ya free of charge.









Really wish I woulda used some forethought and gotten some pics of the Interior of that case so people would better understand what I'm getting at.









Maybe next time.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## DeathJester

Not yet mounted the H70 as my LanCool K58 arrived with all of the retention pins for the front panel snapped









Watch this space.


----------



## CRAZYCAP

you need 6-32 x 1 1/4 inch. I got mine from a RC hobby shop. Hope that helps mate.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12735275*
> Get the CWH50. If you need a bracket, I have all the Intel brackets still. Just lemme know an I'll ship it to ya free of charge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Would those brackets work with the CWH50-1?


----------



## scaz

So ... my motherboard died and I borrowed my little brother's motherboard. I pushed my Phenom II 965 up past 4.0 ghz and put in my new lapped H50. I put on some fan shourds and a fan to ensure that it gets freash air from the front of my case and pushes it out the top. Needless to say that I have been benching for not long, but my current cpu temp of 48c is not anywhere near the max for my cpu of 62c.


----------



## scaz

Lapping Before



















After


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS;12739835*
> Would those brackets work with the CWH50-1?


Yup. They are the brackets that come with it. Doubt I'll ever have the ability to use them in the near future unless Sandy Bridge has the same footprint as one of the other Intel sockets.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scaz;12748705*
> So ... my motherboard died and I borrowed my little brother's motherboard. I pushed my Phenom II 965 up past 4.0 ghz and put in my new lapped H50. I put on some fan shourds and a fan to ensure that it gets freash air from the front of my case and pushes it out the top. Needless to say that I have been benching for not long, but my current cpu temp of 48c is not anywhere near the max for my cpu of 62c.


An excellent use for Deltas I think.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## alancsalt

*H60*

120mm x 152mm x 27mm radiator (H50?)

Improved cooling block that has a micro-channel cooling design in a lower-profile. The cold plate also features a split-flow manifold, which allows the coolant to enter the plate at the middle of the block and flow out the sides. 
Swivel hoses like H70. Same hose as H50/H70.

Quote:



Corsair has included a new custom-designed 120mm fan that offers high static pressure (3.2mm H2O). The new fan operates at 1700 RPM and has a airflow rating of 74.4CFM, while maintaining a noise level of 30.2dBA.


Claimed to be much easier to mount.

Quote:



For the fan to work at its optimal performance level, it has to be configured with the airflow being directed into the case. This alters the airflow within the chassis and can decrease the exhaust rate of hot air. However, the fan can be easily adjusted to allow the air to flow out of the case, but there could be a slight decrease in cooling performance.


http://www.neoseeker.com/Articles/Ha...air_H60/5.html

They compare it in testing to a Thermalright 120, Titan Fenrir Evo, Noctua NH-C14 single fan, Titan Hati, Corsair H50, Evercool Transformer 4 and a stock Intel unit.










You'd have to ask why no H70, Megahalems, D14 etc. Waiting to see if it really is an improvement, or just a change.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


*H60*

120mm x 152mm x 27mm radiator (H50?)

Improved cooling block that has a micro-channel cooling design in a lower-profile. The cold plate also features a split-flow manifold, which allows the coolant to enter the plate at the middle of the block and flow out the sides. 
Swivel hoses like H70. Same hose as H50/H70.

Claimed to be much easier to mount.

http://www.neoseeker.com/Articles/Ha...air_H60/5.html

They compare it in testing to a Thermalright 120, Titan Fenrir Evo, Noctua NH-C14 single fan, Titan Hati, Corsair H50, Evercool Transformer 4 and a stock Intel unit.

*snip*

You'd have to ask why no H70, Megahalems, D14 etc. Waiting to see if it really is an improvement, or just a change.


They probably didn't get those coolers in time for the comparison. Tiny Tom Logan does a lot of comparison testing and I seem to recall that he mentioned something along this line when someone had asked him why such and such wasn't tested in a batch of tests. Makes sense when you think about it. It's hard enough having the time to test these things and get it to print. But when you're at the mercy of the supplier and they give you a time limit with their product you have to go with what you have on hand or what you can get from other suppliers. Most of the Reviewers aren't backed by Daddy GotRocks.









~Ceadder


----------



## scaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12749358*
> An excellent use for Deltas I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I know I got them from Klue22 from here. They are the loud, but they do a great job at keeping my video card very cool. I wish I had a video card I could over volt. I want some 120s for my H50, but I have a few other upgrades in mind before then


----------



## Ctrl+Alt+Del

I run the H50 with a Thermaltake AF0026 97cfm and its idles in the 80s


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scaz;12754215*
> I know I got them from Klue22 from here. They are the loud, but they do a great job at keeping my video card very cool. I wish I had a video card I could over volt. I want some 120s for my H50, but I have a few other upgrades in mind before then


Yeah, now if only I could get you to sleeve your cables.


















~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## cavallino

I just got a lightly used h70 from a friend of mine for $50!

Using shin-etsu paste, with the radiator at the rear on exhaust (hoses on top) Getting down to 21-22 at downclock idle 27 @ 3.86 idle. Max of 41 in normal heavy load use. Max of 68 using aida64 stress test for 1 hour. Pretty massive improvement over the stock cooler.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## cjc75

So, I have been thinking of, and researching the feasibility of swapping my H50 out for more of a custom designed WC Loop... part of my researching as posted a few days ago, was moving my H50 Rad to the front of my case to test for changes in performance...

However, in light of the recent press release from Asus regarding their AM3 line Motherboards supporting BD cpu's with BIOS updates...

http://event.asus.com/2011/mb/AM3_PLUS_Ready/

_I am now back on the fence, with my decision making..._

So now I am contemplating perhaps saving some money and instead, upgrading to the H70 with a pair of AP-29 GT's on a fan controller.

Would that give me much improvement over the H50 with a pair of CM R4's?

How would it compare to say running an Apogee XT, or Rasa; on a RX120 Rad with two AP-15 GT's, and running an MCP655?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cjc75;12758130*
> So, I have been thinking of, and researching the feasibility of swapping my H50 out for more of a custom designed WC Loop... part of my researching as posted a few days ago, was moving my H50 Rad to the front of my case to test for changes in performance...
> 
> However, in light of the recent press release from Asus regarding their AM3 line Motherboards supporting BD cpu's with BIOS updates...
> 
> http://event.asus.com/2011/mb/AM3_PLUS_Ready/
> 
> _I am now back on the fence, with my decision making..._
> 
> So now I am contemplating perhaps saving some money and instead, upgrading to the H70 with a pair of AP-29 GT's on a fan controller.
> 
> Would that give me much improvement over the H50 with a pair of CM R4's?
> 
> How would it compare to say running an Apogee XT, or Rasa; on a RX120 Rad with two AP-15 GT's, and running an MCP655?


The H50 really is better. Last I checked the H70 is STILL $110. Whereas you can buy a new H50 for half the price and do all the little extras(i.e. lapp the cooling plate, buy a few tubes of G751,buy matching fans for P/P as well as a set of toggle screws to fit the whole thing together) and STILL come in with enough savings to buy a Large Pizza with the works and a 6 pack of suds(or pop for the younguns in the crowd) and get better performance from it to boot.









I think H70 serves a purpose but what that purpose is is anyones guess. Well okay for systems that are housed in slim case designs it would be better than the H50. Anyone here running a cheap-a$$ HP slim? If so the H70 is perfect for it. I know this cause we just returned one to stock 1st day of purchase settings for a guy who is selling it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## cjc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12758258*
> I think H70 serves a purpose but what that purpose is is anyones guess. *Well okay for systems that are housed in slim case designs it would be better than the H50.* Anyone here running a cheap-a$$ HP slim? If so the H70 is perfect for it. I know this cause we just returned one to stock 1st day of purchase settings for a guy who is selling it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Actually am kinda surprised at this answer









Doesn't the H70 have the thicker Rad and includes 2 fans; whereas the H50 has a thinner Rad with 1 fan? I would think the H50 would fit in a slim case easier then the H70?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cjc75;12758402*
> Actually am kinda surprised at this answer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't the H70 have the thicker Rad and includes 2 fans; whereas the H50 has a thinner Rad with 1 fan? I would think the H50 would fit in a slim case easier then the H70?


Nope. Not so long as the Radiator can be mounted to the front of the case but intaking from the side. After seeing the fan setup in that tiny little thing I could see some modding done to the fan mounting plate to accept an adapter plate and the Radiator with a slim fan mounted directly to it.

The H50 would probably interfere with the rear exhaust fan, which is thicker than one would expect.









This one is similar only the one we worked on has a fan at the back and top of the cabinet.










Though it also didn't have that NVidia card in it either. Just a cheapo Ethernet card and using the onboard Vid instead.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## werds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12758258*
> I think H70 serves a purpose but what that purpose is is anyones guess. Well okay for systems that are housed in slim case designs it would be better than the H50. Anyone here running a cheap-a$$ HP slim? If so the H70 is perfect for it. I know this cause we just returned one to stock 1st day of purchase settings for a guy who is selling it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Worked for my purpose







My wife's rig mainly, she has a very compact case (although fits ATX boards) it shaves any extra space EVERYWHERE! Poor original airflow setup and only houses 80mm fans - and extremely little room for a compact WC system let alone a properly decent aircooler that would require MORE airflow then an h50 or h70.

So I bought some second hand H50's and H70's from here on OCN and tested them out in her case - the H70 won out -marginally







but anything that keeps her 4ghz i5 750 and gtx 470 within reasonable temps inside this oven of a case is a win imo! At the right price the H70 is a good buy. At retail cost not as much unless you NEED to squeeze out every little bit.

I think I posted earlier in this thread but this past weekend I got around to finishing some "airflow"modifications to her case which dropped the load temps about another 4 degrees (keeping her cpu under 77* and the GPU under 76* with BOTH of them at full load







) Not bad with using the stock corsair fans running at 75% speed each - in order to reduce noise.

For reference this is a stock GMC R-2 Toast

Her case is pink...and slightly modified for the purpose! Please excuse the crappy iphone pictures - the wife was at the beach with the real camera that day.

New exhaust blowhole since I set the H70 as intake since I figured there is NO way I could manage to get enough cool air INTO the case with the airflow and a Twin Frozr 2 blowing hot air in there as well.










As you can see the 120mm fan was jammed in pretty tight - but thankfully with a fully modular PSU this wasn't a huge deal.










No Place to hide the cables to improve airflow, and alot of heat producing components all jammed elbows to buttholes together.



















As mentioned - the case was made for 80mm fans- so a lil bit of some plying the case with pliers and a couple of strategically placed zipties and bingo!mounted H70 as intake!










So then finally the bottom of the case is where the intake fan is. It originally was a rinky dinky 80mm.










And this is the Twin Frozr 2 that was in need of some cooler air







Notice how close it is to the H70! OUCH!










And finally the case gets a semi-proper intake fan! After I mangled the case a lil anyways heh...










All the dust you see was also blown out after I was done with the modification - not bad for being 3 months since the last clean out and it living underneath her computer desk imo


----------



## werds

And this post is for the last few pics


----------



## AgentHydra

So I just got a H50 from the CrazyPC closing sale for about $35 with shipping









However I'm pretty sure (I haven't opened it yet) that its the first revision that doesn't come with the AMD mounting bracket.

The Corsair store is out of stock and there's nothing on eBay, any idea on where to get one?


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12758258*
> The H50 really is better. Last I checked the H70 is STILL $110.


Not sure where you're buying your parts; but I got my H70 for a little over $90 with shipping and taxes.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *werds;12758707*
> And this post is for the last few pics


Ewww ICK







And it's pink too? Looks like a WD500 External Drive's big brother bubba. Only that Bubba has a slight fondness for Chiffon.









I'm glad I don't have to walk out into the LR and see that on a day to day basis, no offense meant to you and the lovely missus.









In the case of that Slimeline(tongue firmly planted in cheek...







not THAT cheek you cheeky devils) the power brick is really the same width as a standard garden brick. So nobody is mounting a horizontal 120mm anything in it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cjc75*


Actually am kinda surprised at this answer









Doesn't the H70 have the thicker Rad and includes 2 fans; whereas the H50 has a thinner Rad with 1 fan? I would think the H50 would fit in a slim case easier then the H70?


I agree. The H50 is smaller, and if the user were to go with only 1 fan it would fit in a more restricted space. Plus the hoses are slightly longer making them a little easier to flex exactly how you need them

However, if you still go with 2 fans the H50 is only saving 1/2 the thickness of the H70 rad.

In every test I have seen of a stock H50 vs a stock H70 the H70 wins.

Here's a good one with H50, H60 and H70:

http://www.hardwareheaven.com/review...rformance.html

You can just google H70 reviews and see what I mean. The H70 out performs the H50 a more at heavy load than at idle.

If the owner laps the H50 and adds a second fan it will perform very close to the H70. However, for a fair comparison, if you also lapped the H70 you would get a performance improvement there as well.

Everything being equal (fans, lapping, installation) the H70 is better but also slightly larger and more expensive. I purchased the H70 on sale for $80, and most places sell it for about $100 now, but look around and you can find it for less. I've seen the H50 on sale for $49, which is awesome for that cooler.

Given the choice right now, I personally would still choose the H70, although I like the sleek new block design, micro channel technology and new fan in the H60. I would love to see an H80 using the block from the H60 and the rad from the H70.

Do a google on H60 reviews and you'll find one where the reviewer did a performance test on the H60 using the fans that come with the H70. There was a nice performance improvement but it still didn't beat the H70 under load.

Found it:

http://www.madshrimps.be/articles/ar...#axzz1GoWisMfK


----------



## tha808evangelist

what's up people, it's 65 degrees in here and my processor is at 39 c at full load! good times!!


----------



## werds

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Ewww ICK







And it's pink too? Looks like a WD500 External Drive's big brother bubba. Only that Bubba has a slight fondness for Chiffon.









I'm glad I don't have to walk out into the LR and see that on a day to day basis, no offense meant to you and the lovely missus.








~Ceadder










LOL no offense taken! When her old Dell died I made the mistake of showing her Newegg.com and told her she could pick ANY case she wanted... her first pick was this beast... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811208009

her second pick was the GMCToast lmao... her final decision was based on which mouse she could find to match the case best..the "pink toast" won - I'm just glad we don't keep our pc's in the living room!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *werds*


LOL no offense taken! When her old Dell died I made the mistake of showing her Newegg.com and told her she could pick ANY case she wanted... her first pick was this beast... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811208009

her second pick was the GMCToast lmao... her final decision was based on which mouse she could find to match the case best..the "pink toast" won - I'm just glad we don't keep our pc's in the living room!










Hahahaha that first one is the one that my PoS stepdad chose for his build.









He's moved on now, but I still have it. I hate that case. I may use some things from it but highly doubtful since it's full of bunnies and cobbies.









~Ceadder


----------



## DeathJester

Popping 31c under load (Prime95) across 4 cores, and quieter than stock cooler. Me likey!

Oh, and I only have one pull fan installed to keep noise down, as I'm not clocking the chip ATM (n650i chipset is rubbish for OCing quad-core ships). Working on more airflow to the chipset now, though, as it's might warm to the touch with no airflow around it anymore. Will edit with pictures.


----------



## Ceadderman

It's just too bad that Corsair didn't have the foresight to have Acetek build a NB cooler for my Formula. Not that it's that hot right now but after 4 hours of playing FarCry 2 on DX 9 Max settings bloom and HMR off it gets up to 52c and hangs there. Not bad but after fixing the issue and running ~45c avg temp any other time, it would be nice to be able to confidently OC w/o worry.









At least my average CPU temp is at ~35c as well. I love this Cooler.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## tha808evangelist

yeah my asus m4a785td-v evo has nice mosfett heatsink and n and s bridge heatsinks the board stays nice and chilly.


----------



## amartolos

H60 vs H70 Vs H50

http://www.hardwareheaven.com/reviews/1125/pg6/corsair-h60-liquid-cpu-cooler-review-thermal-acoustic-performance.html


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *werds;12760939*
> LOL no offense taken! When her old Dell died I made the mistake of showing her Newegg.com and told her she could pick ANY case she wanted... her first pick was this beast... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811208009
> 
> her second pick was the GMCToast lmao... her final decision was based on which mouse she could find to match the case best..the "pink toast" won - I'm just glad we don't keep our pc's in the living room!


My wife hates teh pinkz. If it has to be a metal case, she'd prefer basic black. _I'm_ the one more likely to get a hot pink or radioactive green case.

However, she's been bugging me to get her one of those all-acrylic cases and load it full of neon tubes and LEDs and UV-reactive stuff. She's all about the blinky-lights. Unfortunately, they're all pretty crap for cooling.


----------



## gumby510

I just built a new sandybridge system this week using a i5 2500k asus p8p67 deluxe Mb and a h50 cooler. My temps are ranging from 32-38 degrees Idle and max while running Call of duty Blk ops was 61 degrees Celcius. Are these temps ok? No overclocking has been done.


----------



## slowman87

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gumby510*


I just built a new sandybridge system this week using a i5 2500k asus p8p67 deluxe Mb and a h50 cooler. My temps are ranging from 32-38 degrees Idle and max while running Call of duty Blk ops was 61 degrees Celcius. Are these temps ok? No overclocking has been done.


I would recommend running Prime95 for 10 minutes or so to get a better figure to compare to others.

BTW, think I'll be picking up the H70 this weekend down at Fry's! Getting excited


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luchog;12769636*
> My wife hates teh pinkz. If it has to be a metal case, she's prefer basic black. _I'm_ the one more likely to get a hot pink or radioactive green case.
> 
> However, she's been bugging me to get her one of those all-acrylic cases and load it full of neon tubes and LEDs and UV-reactive stuff. She's all about the blinky-lights. Unfortunately, they're all pretty crap for cooling.


I have a blue acrylic Logysis case that I'd get rid of. Even have a clear acrylic PSU with UV green sleeves to go in it. PM for all the details if interested.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gumby510*


I just built a new sandybridge system this week using a i5 2500k asus p8p67 deluxe Mb and a h50 cooler. My temps are ranging from 32-38 degrees Idle and max while running Call of duty Blk ops was 61 degrees Celcius. Are these temps ok? No overclocking has been done.


Those temps look okay, but Sandy Bridge is still pretty new to emphatically state that they are in the sweet spot. What's Intel's literature state the ceiling temp of that CPU is? If it's 60c(just speculating), then that's probably it's usual range. If it's like the rest of the Intel lineup @ 72c(typically report 10 over) then that is a DAMN GOOD temp range for it.

But since I don't have this information I cannot emphatically state one way or the other. My apologies.









~Ceadder


----------



## gumby510

Ya just ran prime 95 for 15 mins and it never went higher than the 61 degrees I stated in my original post. Those temps seemed high to me so I figured I'd ask around.

thanks for your time with replying

Edit: Per Intel's Site the Tcase on this CPU is 72.6


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amartolos;12767709*
> H60 vs H70 Vs H50
> 
> http://www.hardwareheaven.com/reviews/1125/pg6/corsair-h60-liquid-cpu-cooler-review-thermal-acoustic-performance.html


Good on ya!









Looking at this I'd have to suspect that an extra fan would put the h60 ahead of the h70 on cooling. Not everyone wants max cooling like me but. Some ppls are more worried about noise.


----------



## slowman87

So I was wondering, I've been through a lot of pages, but there are so many in this thread!

Any benefit from switching to different fans on the H70 unit? I'd like to put two Noctuas on it but IDK if there would be any real benefit except maybe a bit more quiet? Anyone know of a performance upgrade by switching the fans? Thanks!


----------



## seesee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slowman87;12774696*
> So I was wondering, I've been through a lot of pages, but there are so many in this thread!
> 
> Any benefit from switching to different fans on the H70 unit? I'd like to put two Noctuas on it but IDK if there would be any real benefit except maybe a bit more quiet? Anyone know of a performance upgrade by switching the fans? Thanks!


don't use noctua, they are noisy on H70.. i had it and now I am using AP-15


----------



## Epsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seesee;12774939*
> don't use noctua, they are noisy on H70.. i had it and now I am using AP-15


Same here, using AP-15's in P/P and two shrouds between.


----------



## cavallino

Any suggestion on the best fans regardless of noise level? Deltas?


----------



## Magus2727

Make sure you know what that means... there are some Delta's out there that have high dBa ratings. but in general yes.


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seesee;12774939*
> don't use noctua, they are noisy on H70.. i had it and now I am using AP-15


I'm using Akasa Vipers on my H70, and I've definitely seen a performance improvement, as well as lower noise.


----------



## cavallino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magus2727;12778363*
> Make sure you know what that means... there are some Delta's out there that have high dBa ratings. but in general yes.


I looked on their site and saw one model was 74db.









I don't mind noise but hearing damage yes.


----------



## slowman87

Looking like the AP-15 is what I'll go with, thanks for the replies fellas!


----------



## Genjimaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slowman87;12779822*
> Looking like the AP-15 is what I'll go with, thanks for the replies fellas!


Now all you gotta do is find a place with them in stock. lol


----------



## slowman87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Genjimaru;12779881*
> Now all you gotta do is find a place with them in stock. lol


LOL yes, been looking around for a while too lol.


----------



## snorbaard

Hey all.

Anyone know what the load temps look like with a H50 and a 2500k @ say 1.48v 5.2GHz? Or any relevant results. I searched a little bit and saw results but not of 5GHz+ with 1.45V+. I know it's all very subjective and I will test for myself in a week but I just want to know so long what I can expect.


----------



## jnabq

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slowman87*


LOL yes, been looking around for a while too lol.


Not interested in the 14's? I like 'em on mine, nice and quiet, p/p w shrouds. Their in stock where I picked mine up.

http://www.koolertek.com/computer-pa...-Fans-c184.htm


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cavallino*


Any suggestion on the best fans regardless of noise level? Deltas?


Delta have quite a range.

Ultra Kaze 2000s with a controller?


----------



## wmollock

Just Noticed this thread figured I would post myself to the owners club


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wmollock;12786172*
> Just Noticed this thread figured I would post myself to the owners club
> 
> *snip*


Lookin good bro.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## slowman87

Picked one up tonight at Fry's! Now gonna try and see what's best way to mount in my case. Going to try and set it up as a front mount in my drive bays. Here we go!


----------



## rkl1985

Hey all, saw the club, me want in:










It's been a good cooler for me and holds my cpu at 4 gig just fine with a single push fan, kinda has made me want/wish I had done a simple cpu loop just cuz the H70 is sooo cool, i'm tempted to still build one!


----------



## slowman87

Wheww! All done with the install. Ran into a few bumps but all in all went really smooth. Much thanks to "Telnets" and "cjc75" for their great help and everyone else who helped. You all made it a much smoother process for me! Pics to come for those interested.


----------



## slowman87

Oh and BTW, huge huge huge improvement over the stock Intel fan/heatsink. Idle is low 30C - 35C on all cores, Intel was 45C - 50C. The hottest it got after 10 mins of full load in Prime95 was 52C









Very happy with the results. Time to up the OC, but after I get some sleep!


----------



## slowman87




----------



## nova_prime

are the screws for the h70 fans kind of short...?? will it hold hanging upside down exhausting on a RV02-E...?


----------



## priceworth

Hello guys, i've got H50 but the problem is that i've managed to brake the 775 bracket and i was wondering if i could make the 1366 bracket to fit somehow (dont know if it even lines up with the motherboard). I have emailed corsair Friday if they can send me another bracket but i still haven't received any response.


----------



## XtachiX

the bracket should be a universal fit
look at the holes they are numbered according to the socket type


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slowman87;12788483*


Not bad but I think you'll probably want the inlet/outlet of your Rad at the bottom not the top. Because there is air in the system. Not a lot, but enough that it could cause problems.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## cavallino

I noticed a bit of gurgling with the tubes at the bottom. It seems like it's quieter with the pump below the level of the inlet outlet. Supposedly you can mount it either way.


----------



## slowman87

Thanks for the info guys, I've been watching temps like a hawk so far and so far so good. High 20 - Low 30 core temps across the board. So I think it's good so far and mounted bottom I don't think it will reach, and I have a ghetto shroud in place too, primarily for added length.


----------



## priceworth

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XtachiX*


the bracket should be a universal fit
look at the holes they are numbered according to the socket type


Hi mate, thanks for the reply but im not talking about the back plate for the cooler (the one which stucks to the back of the motherboard) im talking about the bracket which stucks the cooler to the motherboard.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cavallino*


I noticed a bit of gurgling with the tubes at the bottom. It seems like it's quieter with the pump below the level of the inlet outlet. Supposedly you can mount it either way.


Yeah you _*can*_ mount it either way. But if you have a bottle of water in the fridge or wherever take it in your hand and turn it over like you were emptying it. _*Only leave the cap on.*_ Did you notice the air in the neck? It went to the bottom when you turned it over right?

Why collect that air at the i/o of the Rad when you can keep it completely out of the loop at the bottom of the Rad instead. That's all I'm sayin.









~Ceadder


----------



## ht_addict

For anyone who has lapped their H70 did you take the copper plating off the unit or do it with it attached? I've lapped my 1050T and am looking at doing the same with my H70. One other question, do I have to go 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 grit or just polish it up with 2000.


----------



## priceworth

haven't got h70 but the way i lapped my h50 was - 400 grit, 600, 800, 1200, 1500 you might stop here if you dont want mirror finish, above that doesnt make any difference expect its shiny which is aways bonus ...

By using only 2000 the result will be equal to 0 ...


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey prince you mind finding another emoticon? Gotta keep in mind that this is a PG13 forum friend.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## priceworth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12794432*
> Hey prince you mind finding another emoticon? Gotta keep in mind that this is a PG13 forum friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Didnt know there's something wrong with this emoticon








It was just my expression when i saw my h50 lapped to mirror finish with great reflection









Can anyone help me with my question though?
http://www.overclock.net/12788623-post16861.html


----------



## cavallino

Got a couple of Scyth Ultra Kaze 3000rpm's. Really loud but seems to be a good improvement in cooling.

I just played BFBC2 for an hour or so and averaged 37c.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *priceworth;12794504*
> Didnt know there's something wrong with this emoticon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was just my expression when i saw my h50 lapped to mirror finish with great reflection
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone help me with my question though?
> http://www.overclock.net/12788623-post16861.html


Same here. And I'll pop over to check out your question. Just please do something about that emo. This is a family friendly site.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## priceworth

Emoticon removed ceadder







Now waiting for response xD


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *priceworth;12794572*
> Emoticon removed ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now waiting for response xD


PM'ed. Thanks appreciate it. I was starting to think it was time to head over to PHub.







*lulz*

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## priceworth

rep + 1 ceadder







Made me laugh ... Pm sended back, thanks very much m8!


----------



## nerdybeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cavallino;12794521*
> Got a couple of Scyth Ultra Kaze 3000rpm's. Really loud but seems to be a good improvement in cooling.
> 
> I just played BFBC2 for an hour or so and averaged 37c.


Grab yourself a fan controller + thanks for the info on the 6870s =)


----------



## cavallino

Interestingly enough all my temps are cooler inside the case with the 2 kaze's. I guess it's just sucking so much air of out of the case.

I have it on exhaust as putting it on intake at the back made everything else very hot and the 922 is to small to put it anywhere else. I tried moving it too the front but the tubes couldn't make it up and over my ram coolers and still reach the 5.25" bay.

I had to use an odd mounting solution with the larger fans. I cut out the rear grille to reduce noise. One fan is mounted outside the case. Both 38mm fans plus the radiator were too big to fit inside. Not the most attractive but it works well.

I definitely need a fan controller to turn them down though. At full blast they make the stock fans seem silent.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cavallino;12796211*
> Interestingly enough all my temps are cooler inside the case with the 2 kaze's. I guess it's just sucking so much air of out of the case.
> 
> I have it on exhaust as putting it on intake at the back made everything else very hot and the 922 is to small to put it anywhere else. I tried moving it too the front but the tubes couldn't make it up and over my ram coolers and still reach the 5.25" bay.
> 
> I had to use an odd mounting solution with the larger fans. I cut out the rear grille to reduce noise. One fan is mounted outside the case. Both 38mm fans plus the radiator were too big to fit inside. Not the most attractive but it works well.
> 
> I definitely need a fan controller to turn them down though. At full blast they make the stock fans seem silent.


Shoulda just mounted the Rad directly to the case with a shroud on the outside in between the puller fan and the case. They run a shroud in between the Rad and the Pusher fan. Noise problem solved. I have my puller directly against the top of my 932 with a fan silencer in between. I'm not hearing anything other than regular fan noise. I don't plan on cutting up the top of my 932 to find out if there is a diff either.







lulz

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## cavallino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12796408*
> Shoulda just mounted the Rad directly to the case with a shroud on the outside in between the puller fan and the case. They run a shroud in between the Rad and the Pusher fan. Noise problem solved. I have my puller directly against the top of my 932 with a fan silencer in between. I'm not hearing anything other than regular fan noise. I don't plan on cutting up the top of my 932 to find out if there is a diff either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Hmm I didn't know that, probably would have worked too. I feel like the mesh in back was blocking a lot of air though. Holes were pretty small. Given the loudness of these fans the fact that I removed the grille to reduce noise now seems silly.

Even with just one fan on the radiator inside it's still quite close to the NB heatsink. I should have bought a HAF-X









The temps are great though which is what I really care about.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cavallino;12796533*
> Hmm I didn't know that, probably would have worked too. I feel like the mesh in back was blocking a lot of air though. Holes were pretty small. Given the loudness of these fans the fact that I removed the grille to reduce noise now seems silly.
> 
> Even with just one fan on the radiator inside it's still quite close to the NB heatsink. I should have bought a HAF-X
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The temps are great though which is what I really care about.


The holes on the back(that were...







) of your cabinet can't be smaller than the holes on the top and side of the HAF 932. Spaghetti stick size in diameter.









Just a thought on the future should you run into similar issues later on.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Aznboy1993

Hey guys I have a quick question!

I currently have a Corsair H50 with push/pull on my i7 2600K. I am trying to reach 5GHz but my temperatures are too high to my liking. They go up to 80C load using Prime95 blend tests. So I was looking for a new cooler and the H70 caught my eye. How much different is it from the H50? Is it worth the price over the H50? I can get the H70 for $75 and probably sell the H50 for $45.


----------



## Ceadderman

I think that you will be disappointed with the H70 for 5Ghz. It's not much better than the H50 if you have done everything to that.

By everything I mean:

Lapp the contact plate
Add extra fan
Add shrouds
Put it in the best spot for your system. If you get better temps Intaking at the front then mount it there. If you get them Exhausting out the top(if available to you) and etc.
Making sure your pump isn't plugged in at the CPU header(mine is on PWR) which fluctuates with temp changes.

The difference between the two is ~3c difference. Not enough to make it worthwhile.

And H50 is on par with Air, so that option is probably out too.

Your best bet however is not gone. You could build a dedicated h2o Loop that would give you more cooling surface(240 or 360 Rad) and a stronger pump to push the flow. Or if it's winter stuff a towel at the door and crack a window.

Just remember to have a space heater handy and warm clothes to stay healthy.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## speedracer

Have an H50 cooling system and read a lot about the "push-pull" setup and decided to go for it. Prior to doing this my temps (Phenom II x4 965) would be about 31~32C with an ambient of 75F. AFTER my upgrade (removed their fan and installed 2 identical fans producing 54CFM each and verified their rotation is correct. ALSO followed their instructions to PULL air from outside into the case). I do seem to feel more air flow coming out of the radiator which I thought would translate to lower temps however, I am seeing 33~34C with an ambient of 80F. This is at idle to doing some very easy tasks. I was expecting temps in the mid to high 20's. I am new to this water cooling arena so bear with me. My computer has 2 exhaust fans in the rear bottom, 1-120x120 front intake, 1-40 pushing out the top, 1-40 pushing out the side and of course the power supply fan. There are other non powered intakes in the front to allow airflow INTO the cabinet plus a vent at the bottom. Are these readings good? ANY thoughts are appreciated. THANKS..


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedracer;12805899*
> Have an H50 cooling system and read a lot about the "push-pull" setup and decided to go for it. Prior to doing this my temps (Phenom II x4 965) would be about 31~32C with an ambient of 75F. AFTER my upgrade (removed their fan and installed 2 identical fans producing 54CFM each and verified their rotation is correct. ALSO followed their instructions to PULL air from outside into the case). I do seem to feel more air flow coming out of the radiator which I thought would translate to lower temps however, I am seeing 33~34C with an ambient of 80F. This is at idle to doing some very easy tasks. I was expecting temps in the mid to high 20's. I am new to this water cooling arena so bear with me. My computer has 2 exhaust fans in the rear bottom, 1-120x120 front intake, 1-40 pushing out the top, 1-40 pushing out the side and of course the power supply fan. There are other non powered intakes in the front to allow airflow INTO the cabinet plus a vent at the bottom. Are these readings good? ANY thoughts are appreciated. THANKS..


With a 27c ambient 33-34c seems about right. You need to get your ambient temp down. You can't be any lower then your ambient.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;12806215*
> With a 27c ambient 33-34c seems about right. You need to get your ambient temp down. You can't be any lower then your ambient.


This. Also if you add a shroud in between the Pusher Fan and the Radiator it should help increase the flow across the vanes of the Radiator as well as make the setup a bit quieter.









Also don't knock cheap fans like Cooler Master R4s' or Yate-Loon Silents. I have the latter in the High Speed iteration and my system just loves them.

Nothing you do is going to matter though if you have a high ambient temp.
















Hang on that came out the wrong way. What I mean to say is exactly how Lucky here said it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## slowman87

The included resistors with the h70 really make it A LOT more quiet. Nice!


----------



## nova_prime

how fast should the H70 pump being going?

My mobo shows it between 1380-1400rpm...it is plugged into the Power Fan header on the Sabertooth P67...


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nova_prime;12809179*
> how fast should the H70 pump being going?
> 
> My mobo shows it between 1380-1400rpm...it is plugged into the Power Fan header on the Sabertooth P67...


Thats sounds about right. I know the H50 was 1400-1450RPM.


----------



## slowman87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nova_prime;12809179*
> how fast should the H70 pump being going?
> 
> My mobo shows it between 1380-1400rpm...it is plugged into the Power Fan header on the Sabertooth P67...


CPUID shows my CPU fan RPM at 1420-1440. I've read it should be around 1400, so you should be fine.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slowman87;12809605*
> CPUID shows my CPU fan RPM at 1420-1440. I've read it should be around 1400, so you should be fine.


Are you plugged in on your CPU or a more stabilized header? Cause you're not supposed to plug your pump into the CPU header. I can because I can lock mine at full value in the BIOS but I chose not to because you never know when that CMOS gets bumped, borking your settings. I've actually had that happen and not knowing it did my RAM was set back to default as well as all my other settings. At the time I was somewhat oblivious to it. Just came out the next morning and noticed that my fans seemed to be running louder than usual. Went into the BIOS and found that everything had been reset. Was kind of surprised my RAID wasn't but was happy at the same time.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## scaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cavallino;12778204*
> Any suggestion on the best fans regardless of noise level? Deltas?


http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/technologies/electromechanical/thermal-management/fans/Pages/3732450-OD1238-12HB-VXC.aspx

The ones I want to order after I get a fan controller is:

http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/technologies/electromechanical/thermal-management/fans/Pages/4237186-AFB1212HE.aspx


----------



## Edwardjr

H50 Reporting in.


----------



## slowman87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12809702*
> Are you plugged in on your CPU or a more stabilized header? Cause you're not supposed to plug your pump into the CPU header. I can because I can lock mine at full value in the BIOS but I chose not to because you never know when that CMOS gets bumped, borking your settings.
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Well I have mine at full value in BIOS set manually to 100. I think it should get full value no matter what, because my CPU fan header on my mobo has 4 pins, the 4th being for PWM I believe. I have it plugged into just 3 pins and my mobo has a guide that slid right into the H70s pump connector so it should be 100 no matter what?

Otherwise, school me because I always see it it 1420-1440 and 100% in CPUID.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slowman87;12815417*
> Well I have mine at full value in BIOS set manually to 100. I think it should get full value no matter what, because my CPU fan header on my mobo has 4 pins, the 4th being for PWM I believe. I have it plugged into just 3 pins and my mobo has a guide that slid right into the H70s pump connector so it should be 100 no matter what?
> 
> Otherwise, school me because I always see it it 1420-1440 and 100% in CPUID.


Of note...

I didn't say you CAN'T hook up there.

I said that I WOULDN'T.

I also stated the reasons why are fairly obvious. If you've got a CMOS reset feature in your rear I/O panel you can accidentally bump it and reset everything. If you had a power outage or surge that can reset your BIOS. Your board decides it knows better than you and resets your settings. For ANY of these reasons it's not advisable.

My board can do the very same thing that your board allows. So I understand that you CAN do it. But my board also has had the CMOS reset itself also. For no good reason at all. Just came out and my fans were all goin to beat the band. I noticed it but ignored it because I just thought the ambient temp in the house was a bit warm. I had to reformat another HDD so I shut er down and pretty much every Asus board I've come in contact with changes your boot order for the new drive. So I had to go into the BIOS and make certain that this didn't happen(it did btw) and while I was there checked my settings which were ALL of them reset.

You're more than welcome to run that thing wherever you like. Just be aware that you may not like the outcome should something like a simple CMOS bump frag your settings. I dunno maybe mine was having its period that day.









@scaz... go with the Delta if you're wanting something that has that high an RPM value. But honestly faster is not always better where a Rad is concerned. Nevermind the db value. The blades ramp up as fast as those things do the flow is quicker. Sometimes slower is better. Soon as I can I'm going to test this theory by getting a pair or Yate Loon Medium Speed Silents to swap out with my High Speed Silents. I know that the db level is going to come down, but I want to see if the cooling level makes any noticeable change +/-. If your heart is set on something so fast then buy the Delta. Don't spend $35 to get the same outcome on your H50.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## slowman87

All right I got ya. Thanks for looking out man, will consider.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slowman87;12815417*
> Well I have mine at full value in BIOS set manually to 100. I think it should get full value no matter what, because my CPU fan header on my mobo has 4 pins, the 4th being for PWM I believe. I have it plugged into just 3 pins and my mobo has a guide that slid right into the H70s pump connector so it should be 100 no matter what?
> 
> Otherwise, school me because I always see it it 1420-1440 and 100% in CPUID.


Your connection is fine the way it is. You did exactly what you should have done in regards to the settings on the CPU header. Just be careful if you have a CMOS reset you'll have to set it again (as Ceadderman mentioned).

The header you plug it into doesn't matter, what matters is how you set that header to run. You have it set to 100% which is exactly what you should have done.

Good job.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edwardjr;12814180*
> H50 Reporting in.


That's really sweet man. Nice job.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;12819633*
> Your connection is fine the way it is. You did exactly what you should have done in regards to the settings on the CPU header.
> 
> The header you plug it into doesn't matter, what matters is how you set that header to run. You have it set to 100% which is exactly what you should have done.
> 
> Good job.


:doh:MG!

_*I NEVER SAID THAT IT DID. I WAS SAYING THAT HE SHOULD BE AWARE! I ALSO GAVE CREDIBLE FACTS TO SUPPORT MY STANCE. I ALSO STATED THAT I WOULDN'T RUN IT THAT WAY FOR THOSE VERY REASONS.*_

Holy mother of jesus!









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## alancsalt

As ceadderman said, usually it would be fine, but if you bluescreen and bios resets to auto fan control as it might your pump will slow and you will run hotter.

I use a molex adapter with a fan plug for reading the speed so that I know my fan will always run at 100%.


----------



## slowman87

Looks very clean Edwardjr


----------



## m3th0d

Question - I'm installing a H50 in my Corsair 600T... can I use the 120mm fan that came with the 600T in push/pull configuration with the 120mm fan that comes with the H50? I heard they have to be the same CFM or it'll do more harm than good...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *m3th0d*


Question - I'm installing a H50 in my Corsair 600T... can I use the 120mm fan that came with the 600T in push/pull configuration with the 120mm fan that comes with the H50? I heard they have to be the same CFM or it'll do more harm than good...


Correct if the lower rated fan is set up as the Pusher fan.

I will always recommend like for like in orientation but if you're lacking funds to do so then you want the weaker fan at the back of the line. Stronger fans can push weaker fans but weaker fans drag stronger fans.

If you're looking for a cheap set of fans for your setup head over to Performance-PCs'.com and look for Yate Loons. They cost $7 each but you can cut back on the sleeving and cable modding service for -$3 on the price to get a pair for ~$10 before shipping. They come in 3 colors even. Red Blue and Green. And in three speeds. Low Med and High. I suggest Meds for that db sweet spot. They're hella adjustable in the RPM range as well. Excellent fans for Modders on a budget.









Stonger rated fan> shroud>Rad> Weaker fan. Just to clear up any questions.

~Ceadder


----------



## m3th0d

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Correct if the lower rated fan is set up as the Pusher fan.

I will always recommend like for like in orientation but if you're lacking funds to do so then you want the weaker fan at the back of the line. Stronger fans can push weaker fans but weaker fans drag stronger fans.

If you're looking for a cheap set of fans for your setup head over to Performance-PCs'.com and look for Yate Loons. They cost $7 each but you can cut back on the sleeving and cable modding service for -$3 on the price to get a pair for ~$10 before shipping. They come in 3 colors even. Red Blue and Green. And in three speeds. Low Med and High. I suggest Meds for that db sweet spot. They're hella adjustable in the RPM range as well. Excellent fans for Modders on a budget.









Stonger rated fan> shroud>Rad> Weaker fan. Just to clear up any questions.

~Ceadder










Thanks for the tips! Question - what's a shroud?

I get everything else but the shroud part...









Strong fan > Radiator > Weaker fan


----------



## Nutty Pumpkin

H50 Pump > H70 Pump.

Thoughts, Queries, Opinions?


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^Wish I had one to test side by side. I sure would like to know what their top speeds are but more than that I would love to get them apart to compare the inlet outlets. the smaller the opening the more flow they have. It's like taking a small nozzle and putting it on a garden hose that has minimal flow. The back pressure builds up increasing rate of flow. Man now you really gots me curious.


















Quote:



Originally Posted by *m3th0d*


Thanks for the tips! Question - what's a shroud?

I get everything else but the shroud part...









Strong fan > Radiator > Weaker fan


The shroud is a hacked out fan(if you have an old one layin round) which helps concentrate more flow over the entire Rad surface rather than having a dead(blind) spot where the flow of liquid isn't doing much good. The closer the fan the bigger the dead spot. The shroud gets it away from the surface and allows more air to flow over the vanes. Flow is good.









~Ceadder


----------



## sockpirate

So , Has anyone used the H70 on a torture rack ? Right now i kinda just have the rad just lying there unmounted.

Any suggestions on how to mount this thing on the danger den torture rack ?

Oh and another question, do the holes for the screws on the H70 go all the way through the rad? I am guessing i could just pick some extra long screws up at the hardware store and mount it on the side of the rack on one of the 120 mountings?


----------



## Behrouz

Does anyone know if the H50 and the H70 use the same mounting hardware? I'm thinking of replacing my H50 with an H70, but the thought of disassembling my entire computer is giving me nightmares. The retainer for the block seems to be the same in pictures, so I just want to make sure they really are before going through with the purchase.


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate;12824520*
> Oh and another question, do the holes for the screws on the H70 go all the way through the rad? I am guessing i could just pick some extra long screws up at the hardware store and mount it on the side of the rack on one of the 120 mountings?


No, they don't go all the way through. They only have a few millimeters clearance before they start hitting the vanes. Theoretically, you could carefully spread the vanes apart and make a clear space for the screws to go all the way through (maybe use a piece of 6-32 threaded rod for mounting).


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Behrouz;12825419*
> Does anyone know if the H50 and the H70 use the same mounting hardware? *I'm thinking of replacing my H50 with an H70*, but the thought of disassembling my entire computer is giving me nightmares. The retainer for the block seems to be the same in pictures, so I just want to make sure they really are before going through with the purchase.


Why? The cost heavily outweighs the performance gains.









If you have the H50 already you aren't going to gain that much by switching over. That's why a lot of H50 owners are STILL H50 owners.

If you have dual fans and a shroud the only benefit you get(which is negligible) is the thicker Rad. If you don't have a shroud yet, I suggest making one and getting longer toggle bolts to mount it between the Pusher fan and the Rad and see what that does for you.

Remember you cannot go lower than your ambient temp without the aid of a cooling aid. Open window or AC or sticking it in the refrigerator.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## outlaw8505

H50 checking in.

Just lapped last night. Temps were surprising. went from 64c+ load to 60c in prime95, idle went from 40c-ish to 36-37c.
I do have progress pic's if anyone is interested. The heatsink was pretty concave.
Before:









After:

















Case Pic Centurion 590:









Think it would perform better with an upward facing exhaust? I could keep the push/pull and just add another 120 to to the rear. I may try it anyways, just thought I'd get some input from people who may have done it.









So far stable at 2.8Ghz CPU(2.4Ghz Stock), 1600Mhz FSB (1066Mhz Stock), 1066Mhz RAM (1066Mhz stock). Need to run overnight test, but no crashing in the 15min I let it run.


----------



## sockpirate

recommend me some fans for my H70. cant get ahold of gentle typhoons, they are sold out everywhere. Links would be great!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate;12829739*
> recommend me some fans for my H70. cant get ahold of gentle typhoons, they are sold out everywhere. Links would be great!


www.performance-pcs.com

Look in Fans/120 LED/ Page 4(possibly 3) Yate Loon Med Speed Silents come in 3 flavors(Red/Blue/Green) and you can get them for $4 each. You can get the High Speed variety but you'll have to dial them back to be at a livable db rating.

My HS Silents are rated to over 2000+ RPM each. I think it's 2100 rpm. Deltas are faster but also noisier.









If you don't want LED fans then you can go directly to standard 120 and there will be Yates there too, but I don't have any idea where exactly they're listed or what speeds. Probably same however.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## outlaw8505

Xoxide has them (doesn't say out of stock)

[ame="[URL=http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325&tag=overclockdotnet-20&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FScythe-Gentle-Typhoon-D1225C12B3AP-13-Case%2Fdp%2FB001Q6UU7K]http://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-D1225C12B3AP-13-Case/dp/B001Q6UU7K"]Amazon[/ame[/URL]] does too.

Bunch more came up doing a Google search for 'Gentle Typhoon'


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outlaw8505;12828733*
> H50 checking in.
> 
> Just lapped last night. Temps were surprising. went from 64c+ load to 60c in prime95, idle went from 40c-ish to 36-37c.
> I do have progress pic's if anyone is interested. The heatsink was pretty concave.


Very nice. Looks even shinier than my H70.









My contact surface was not only concave, it had a huge divot in it near one of the round ends. Between lapping and the new fans, I dropped roughly 10C off my load temp.


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate;12829739*
> recommend me some fans for my H70. cant get ahold of gentle typhoons, they are sold out everywhere. Links would be great!


Akasa Viper; Similar CFM, better Static Pressure, and equivalent noise levels to the GT AP-15s. And they're a little cheaper.


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outlaw8505;12829836*
> Xoxide has them (doesn't say out of stock)
> 
> Amazon does too.
> 
> Bunch more came up doing a Google search for 'Gentle Typhoon'


Those are the AP-13s. You want at least AP-15s for the H70 rad.


----------



## outlaw8505

Quote:



Originally Posted by *luchog*


Very nice. Looks even shinier than my H70.









My contact surface was not only concave, it had a huge divot in it near one of the round ends. Between lapping and the new fans, I dropped roughly 10C off my load temp.


Thanks.

Nice drop. It sucks when you pay for something that should already be quality like these coolers. I didn't have a clue how bad it was until I got my AS5 and removed the stock goo. The kids even helped me sand it smooth, goes to show they can do better, lol.

What did you use for sand paper?

I just used 600 - 1000 - 2000 and did a lot of circles and X's.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *luchog*


Those are the AP-13s. You want at least AP-15s for the H70 rad.


Sorry, I haven't dealt with that one..

What about jab-tech? Otherwise they may be discontinued to newer model coming out?


----------



## Ceadderman

Figure 8s' work better but you have to keep an eye on the tubes and make sure your rotation is even. I did 10 counts when lapping mine.









Got a couple more pics but I gotta scoot for a bit.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## outlaw8505

Nice. I did try them but with the tubes mounted, it made it somewhat difficult having to use both hands doing the 8 at the same time to keep the radiator with the heatsink.


----------



## _TRU_

svc has some


----------



## m3th0d

So my CPU is an i5 760 and I'm not really planning on overclocking anytime soon so others in the forum suggested that I don't need to setup a push/pull config and just go stock... what do you guys think?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *m3th0d*


So my CPU is an i5 760 and I'm not really planning on overclocking anytime soon so others in the forum suggested that I don't need to setup a push/pull config and just go stock... what do you guys think?


Go with the P/P setup anyway. Never know when you'll want to OC, and having to wait while you get everything together would defeat the purpose. I've been primarily running stock on my system, sadly enough. But I have Clocked and like to clock and I know me well enough to know that I get bored easily. And not having the ability to Clock when the mood strikes would mean I woun't be Clocking if I have to wait on parts. Only reason I'm running stock at the moment is cause my Board is in the RMA process.

As cheap as the dual fans are ~10 before shipping, it makes more sense to get them than not.









~Ceadder


----------



## _TRU_

can h60 users be added?


----------



## liquidmetal17

Here is the parts list for the PC I intend to build shortly. Two of the GT-15's will replace the two 120's on the front of the case and the other two are to replace the stock fans on the H70. The 200mm fan is to replace the top case fan, obviously.

I plan to have the two SSD's in a raid0 array. I know that 128GB is not a lot of space, but I only want to use it for programs. I have a different machine on the network that is functioning as a file server with about 2TB of space at the moment. Given that, I think that 128GB should be fine.

I want the box to run as quietly as possible, hence the fan controller. I only plan to OC if I'm unable to run a game at max settings. Most frequently I play WoW, but I have a host of RPG's that I'd like to finish at some point : P. To that end, I had initially chosen Silenx 120's because of the low dBA and decent CFM, but after doing some reading I saw that there was a fair amount of concern about the static pressure that they are able to generate for use as PP pair on a radiator. I would have left them on the front, but the extra thickness (38mm vs 25mm) has me worried that they may not fit in the front of the case without causing issues.

As far as air flow is concerned, I initially planned to have the front fans on intake and the radiator on exhaust. The top fan I figured I'd test both ways to see which was more effective. I know that would raise the CPU temp a bit, but I figured that blowing the heat from the radiator into the case would be as bad if not worse for the system in general. A friend of mine has the case I intend to use as well as an H50 and he has all of his fans (including a side panel fan that I don't intend to install) on intake with the top fan on exhaust.

So here are my questions:

1. What are your thoughts on the hardware I've chosen?

2. How would you propose routing the airflow?

Thank you in advance for your input!


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outlaw8505;12830136*
> I just used 600 - 1000 - 2000 and did a lot of circles and X's.


I didn't. I used wetstones for the rough work, Bear buffing compound for the cleanup, and Brasso for the final polish.
Quote:


> What about jab-tech? Otherwise they may be discontinued to newer model coming out?


They seem to be out of stock just about everywhere, although FrozenCPU.com has the GT AP-30s in stock.

Personally, I prefer the GTs as case fans, and the Akasa Vipers for the rad; because the GTs have very low static pressure.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquidmetal17;12838542*
> Here is the parts list for the PC I intend to build shortly. Two of the GT-15's will replace the two 120's on the front of the case and the other two are to replace the stock fans on the H70. The 200mm fan is to replace the top case fan, obviously.
> 
> I plan to have the two SSD's in a raid0 array. I know that 128GB is not a lot of space, but I only want to use it for programs. I have a different machine on the network that is functioning as a file server with about 2TB of space at the moment. Given that, I think that 128GB should be fine.
> 
> I want the box to run as quietly as possible, hence the fan controller. I only plan to OC if I'm unable to run a game at max settings. Most frequently I play WoW, but I have a host of RPG's that I'd like to finish at some point : P. To that end, I had initially chosen Silenx 120's because of the low dBA and decent CFM, but after doing some reading I saw that there was a fair amount of concern about the static pressure that they are able to generate for use as PP pair on a radiator. I would have left them on the front, but the extra thickness (38mm vs 25mm) has me worried that they may not fit in the front of the case without causing issues.
> 
> As far as air flow is concerned, I initially planned to have the front fans on intake and the radiator on exhaust. The top fan I figured I'd test both ways to see which was more effective. I know that would raise the CPU temp a bit, but I figured that blowing the heat from the radiator into the case would be as bad if not worse for the system in general. A friend of mine has the case I intend to use as well as an H50 and he has all of his fans (including a side panel fan that I don't intend to install) on intake with the top fan on exhaust.
> 
> So here are my questions:
> 
> 1. What are your thoughts on the hardware I've chosen?
> 
> 2. How would you propose routing the airflow?
> 
> Thank you in advance for your input!


everything looks good, junk the MSI motherboard though. get either an Asus board or Gigabyte.


----------



## liquidmetal17

The reason I chose that board is because it was the only one I saw that specifically said that it had SATA3 RAID 0/1 support. Being able to have my ssd's in RAID0 on SATA3 is a must. The description on the MSI board says

"SATA2 ports support RAID 0/1/5/10 by Intel P67
SATA3 ports support RAID 0/1 by Intel P67"

Could I infer from that that any MoBo with an Intel P67 North Bridge would support SATA3 RAID0?


----------



## Booty Warrior

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_TRU_*


can h60 users be added?


Yes plz. Mine should be here by the weekend!


----------



## alancsalt

No reason why H60 owners can't post here, but to change the thread name might be hard because the OP hasn't posted for some time.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *liquidmetal17*


The reason I chose that board is because it was the only one I saw that specifically said that it had SATA3 RAID 0/1 support. Being able to have my ssd's in RAID0 on SATA3 is a must. The description on the MSI board says

"SATA2 ports support RAID 0/1/5/10 by Intel P67
SATA3 ports support RAID 0/1 by Intel P67"

Could I infer from that that any MoBo with an Intel P67 North Bridge would support SATA3 RAID0?


Asus Boards will give you RAID 1/0 in SATA 3 I believe. I'm not 100% sure but I know they included 6GB SATA cables(2) with my Crosshair IV Formula. I think you'd be pleasantly surprised.

Also I was wondering if you thought of getting Yate-Loon low speed silents. Since you don't plan on OC'ing they would be magnificently cheap while being solid performing fans and keep your dB level to a dull roar. I use HS Silents and sometimes wish I ran the Mediums which I would recommend if you're ever going to OC and still wish to keep your dBs' down.

You can get any of these from performance-pcs.com for $4 each before shipping.









~Ceadder


----------



## OolerTheInventor

I've got pics on my build log showing the inside of the H50 if anyone wanted to know how their's works... Mine stopped pumping water so I took it apart to fix it. It's working now!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OolerTheInventor*


I've got pics on my build log showing the inside of the H50 if anyone wanted to know how their's works... Mine stopped pumping water so I took it apart to fix it. It's working now!


Show eet, show eeeeeet!









Pics or eet deedn't appen.









~Ceadder


----------



## OolerTheInventor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Show eet, show eeeeeet!









Pics or eet deedn't appen.









~Ceadder










How about a teaser?










more in the build log


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12819737*
> :doh:MG!
> 
> _*I NEVER SAID THAT IT DID. I WAS SAYING THAT HE SHOULD BE AWARE! I ALSO GAVE CREDIBLE FACTS TO SUPPORT MY STANCE. I ALSO STATED THAT I WOULDN'T RUN IT THAT WAY FOR THOSE VERY REASONS.*_
> 
> Holy mother of jesus!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


OK, you're right. Nothing wrong with being careful. All I said is he did what he should have done when plugging the pump into the CPU header. As long as he keeps an eye on it, it doesn't matter which header he uses.

Note that newer boards can control 3 pin fans from any header, so on a newer board the same thing may apply no matter what connector you plug it into. The safest thing is to check BIOS and make sure it's set to max, and as you mentioned, watch out for accidental BIOS resets.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OolerTheInventor;12843405*
> How about a teaser?
> *snipped*
> more in the build log


Unfortunately all your pics bog my connection down in your Blogdification thread. I couldn't even get past the 1st page.







lulz

I'm assuming the bottom hole on the left is the outlet and the upper is the inlet. Kind of odd since the lower one has an inner collar and the upper one has an (assuming the last part since only one pic







) outer collar.

@mergatroid... all good bro. I've since simmered down.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mergatroid

Well, I was working on my case this week and after looking at my temps when I did the exhaust/intake comparison I decided to reverse my fans to exhaust.

I decided the one or two degrees increase in CPU temperature was worth the decrease I was getting in my chipset temps. I did a little rewiring and replaced the Zalman ZM-MFC3 fan controller I was using with a AeroCool Strike X fan controller.

Why? OK OK, I admit it. I like the way it looks. It controls 5 fans, it's touch controlled, and it looks sweeeet. I do find myself missing the wattage meter from the MFC3 but I'll get used to it.

So, now I have two intake fans (200mm and 120mm), 2 rear exhaust fans (120mm) and the push/pull H70 also exhaust.

Currently all the 120mm fans are set to 1000 RPM, the 200mm fan is at 600RMP and the 2 x 120mm Scythe PWM H70 fans are running at 1218 RPM as set by the motherboard.

This is normally what I run the fans at when just web surfing. It's pretty quiet but gets good air flow. My CPU is running 41c at basically idle. Ambient is 21c. I can get cooler temps if I remove it from my desk. I'll have to do some torturing again this weekend (bwahahaha).

Sorry, I just had to post a couple more pics. It tastes so good.....

1: Latest Internals, 2: Latest lighting, 3: Old fan controller, 4: New fan controller, 5: Aero controller in the dark.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OolerTheInventor;12843405*
> How about a teaser?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more in the build log


Is that what it REALLY looks like inside the H70? Cool.


----------



## liquidmetal17

@thrasherht

I changed the MoBo in my build to the ASUS P8P67 (REV 3.0). It seems to have all of the features I'm looking for in a MoBo. Out of curiosity, why do you recommend only those two brands? I'm pretty new to making 'serious' machines and am always looking to learn something new. Thanks again for your help.

@Ceadderman

Thank you for confirming the information about the P67 North Bridge. I was able to find an ASUS board that stated it supported SATA 3 RAID0. As far as the fans go, I intend to get as much life out of this rig as I can before I have to buy a new one so I figure that I'll end up overclocking it eventually. I'm pretty sure that having a fan controller in the build will enable me to keep the machine quiet when I'm just web browsing or whatever. When I'm gaming with my headset on I don't mind having them running full blast.









One other thing that I forgot to ask about. Regarding lapping the CPU, does that really make a huge difference? Aside from voiding the warranty, are there any drawbacks to lapping it?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];12855747*
> Is that what it REALLY looks like inside the H70? Cool.


It's the H50.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *liquidmetal17*


@thrasherht

I changed the MoBo in my build to the ASUS P8P67 (REV 3.0). It seems to have all of the features I'm looking for in a MoBo. Out of curiosity, why do you recommend only those two brands? I'm pretty new to making 'serious' machines and am always looking to learn something new. Thanks again for your help.

@Ceadderman

Thank you for confirming the information about the P67 North Bridge. I was able to find an ASUS board that stated it supported SATA 3 RAID0. As far as the fans go, I intend to get as much life out of this rig as I can before I have to buy a new one so I figure that I'll end up overclocking it eventually. I'm pretty sure that having a fan controller in the build will enable me to keep the machine quiet when I'm just web browsing or whatever. When I'm gaming with my headset on I don't mind having them running full blast.









One other thing that I forgot to ask about. Regarding lapping the CPU, does that really make a huge difference? Aside from voiding the warranty, are there any drawbacks to lapping it?


The other drawback is going into it thinking you've got to take it all down to Copper. The point of lapping is to get the CPU as flat as possible so that the Thermal Interface Material(TIM) gets the best spread and as thin as possible without allowing contact between the two surfaces. There is no need to take it all the way down to Copper since that could possibly expose too much of the CPU and should your cooling surface make contact with it that's all she wrote. That CPU will be toast.

The way to find out if your CPU needs to be lapped, is to take the straightest edge you can and lay it on the surface of the CPU. Most NotB chips will have a dome in the middle and Rises on the sides. You just look at your CPU with the straight edge on it to see if you see daylight under it. Some chips won't have alot of that and won't need to be lapped as doing so wouldn't make a significant difference in cooling.

Was gonna add some pics but my stupid photobucket isn't cooperating.









~Ceadder


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *liquidmetal17*


@thrasherht

I changed the MoBo in my build to the ASUS P8P67 (REV 3.0). It seems to have all of the features I'm looking for in a MoBo. Out of curiosity, why do you recommend only those two brands? I'm pretty new to making 'serious' machines and am always looking to learn something new. Thanks again for your help.

@Ceadderman

Thank you for confirming the information about the P67 North Bridge. I was able to find an ASUS board that stated it supported SATA 3 RAID0. As far as the fans go, I intend to get as much life out of this rig as I can before I have to buy a new one so I figure that I'll end up overclocking it eventually. I'm pretty sure that having a fan controller in the build will enable me to keep the machine quiet when I'm just web browsing or whatever. When I'm gaming with my headset on I don't mind having them running full blast.









One other thing that I forgot to ask about. Regarding lapping the CPU, does that really make a huge difference? Aside from voiding the warranty, are there any drawbacks to lapping it?


This is why I recommend those brands.
I would recommend DFI but they don't make consumer boards anymore.
http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/94...hy-choose.html


----------



## liquidmetal17

@Ceadderman

I know how to tell if a CPU or HSF needs to be lapped, i was more or less asking about the word "need" in that sentence. I'f I'm using an H70 with Arctic Silver 5, what kind of difference could I really expect to see by lapping? I'm thinking that if it's less than five degrees, there's no reason to do it until the computer is getting up in years and I'm trying to squeeze every last drop out of it, by which point the warranty is up anyhow. I realize that the benefit I'll see will depend on how badly the surfaces are warped, but, on average, what kind of drops are expected from lapping?

@thrasherht

That was an extremely informative thread. Thank you very much for sharing that with me. I'll definitely stick with ASUS and GIGABYTE boards from now on.


----------



## alancsalt

From your point of view, no "need" then, because I think 5 degrees would be a best case scenario.

It helps ppls reply if you fill in system details in "UserCP", edit/add system .... so we know what components we're talking about.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well I can honestly say my temps dropped about ~10c when I lapped both my CPU and the cooling plate on my H50. Average temp before Lapp was ~45c Idle. I'm running 31c right this moment. That's with 6 windows open, 6 apps running in the task menu including PC Probe II.

Now that's not to say that the H50 is doing all that cooling. Because when I put my unlapped stock cooler on attempting to suss some issues out I got comparable temps with it on my CPU after the Lapp. That's with a C3 cooler though. I have no knowledge of whether or not the C2 cooler is the same as the C3.

But the lapp put my CPU at Ambient temp level. I won't go down any further until this Summer when the AC is running.









The temp shown in this pic is with my system sitting over the top of the heater and the temp outside at the time is in the upper Left corner of my desktop. 33c reported by PCP II.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## snorbaard

Hey all.

I got my new sandy bridge rig up and running. I am very pleased with it









I had a little trouble installing the retention bracket on my new motherboard...
Eventually I got the screws to line up and I installed my H50. But then after I tightened all the screws I noticed the board was very skew









So I loosened them a bit and then installed the motherboard into the case and then re-tightened the H50 screws. At this point I have to mention that I removed the stock tim when I took it off the previous motherboard and reapplied a thinly spread as5 tim. What with the issues I had I may or may not have a good contact with the cpu now. So I want to hear your thoughts.

I get ~69-73 degrees C running blend prime95 at 4.5 GHz with vcore set at 1.3 V. It seems a little high, but then again I also don't have a very beefy fan on the rad. Ambient is around 22 degrees C.

At 5 GHz (1.43 V) it went over 80 degrees C after a minute blend.

I think it could be:
-there is no big problem, H50 is just too weak.
-poor positioning, need to reseat.
-poor tim and/or rough copper base on H50.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts


----------



## [email protected]

ASUS Probe? LOL i never use that anymore. Probably long time ago. What a waste of space imo. HWMonitor is good enough.


----------



## twm.7

Ordered mine with a Corsair Graphite 600t !
I'll post pics after the build


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12864617*
> Well I can honestly say my temps dropped about ~10c when I lapped both my CPU and the cooling plate on my H50. Average temp before Lapp was ~45c Idle. I'm running 31c right this moment. That's with 6 windows open, 6 apps running in the task menu including PC Probe II.
> 
> Now that's not to say that the H50 is doing all that cooling. Because when I put my unlapped stock cooler on attempting to suss some issues out I got comparable temps with it on my CPU after the Lapp. That's with a C3 cooler though. I have no knowledge of whether or not the C2 cooler is the same as the C3.
> 
> But the lapp put my CPU at Ambient temp level. I won't go down any further until this Summer when the AC is running.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The temp shown in this pic is with my system sitting over the top of the heater and the temp outside at the time is in the upper Left corner of my desktop. 33c reported by PCP II.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Hmmm. I think you did well then....or maybe it's that I live in the sub-tropics...?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *snorbaard*


Hey all.

I got my new sandy bridge rig up and running. I am very pleased with it









I had a little trouble installing the retention bracket on my new motherboard...
Eventually I got the screws to line up and I installed my H50. But then after I tightened all the screws I noticed the board was very skew









So I loosened them a bit and then installed the motherboard into the case and then re-tightened the H50 screws. At this point I have to mention that I removed the stock tim when I took it off the previous motherboard and reapplied a thinly spread as5 tim. What with the issues I had I may or may not have a good contact with the cpu now. So I want to hear your thoughts.

I get ~69-73 degrees C running blend prime95 at 4.5 GHz with vcore set at 1.3 V. It seems a little high, but then again I also don't have a very beefy fan on the rad. Ambient is around 22 degrees C.

At 5 GHz (1.43 V) it went over 80 degrees C after a minute blend.

I think it could be: 
-there is no big problem, H50 is just too weak.
-poor positioning, need to reseat.
-poor tim and/or rough copper base on H50.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts


Reseat your H50. That's too high.

What you probably need to do is make sure you thread the bolts all the way through the nylon inserts until they free spin. You have two sets of threads per bolt. You want to be safely in between them. Then double check the steel inserts in the backing plate. Sometimes if you put just a little too much pressure on the screw and insert or two will pop out and free spin until it hits the MoBo tray and will score the metal. This happened to me. If your Ring doesn't rattle with the H50 in place prior to cinching it up then you know something isn't right. I'm pretty sure you have some air bubbles in your TIM which is causing that high of temps. An I'm very sure you don't want to run under Load for very long with those temps being posted.

*@Room in general...* Oh and HWMonitor reports the same temps that PC Probe II reports. There's not a damn thing wrong with Asus PC Probe II.









I use both of them. PC Probe II is there for 1st defense. HWMonitor is only better in that it gives you the Minimum/Maximum temp of the CPU where PC Probe II does not. In fact PC Probe II is better in that it has an actual alarm to alert you to an issue. Just don't have your speakers maxed out when you're gaming with a head set on. You'll jump right out of your skin(guaranteed) when that sucker goes off at full volume.









I love them both, but I'm kinda annoyed with HWM since it doesn't show my HDDs' the way it used to.It's nothing major since my Drives are kept chilly by the front Intake fan of my 932 but it is a minor annoyance.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


The other drawback is going into it thinking you've got to take it all down to Copper. The point of lapping is to get the CPU as flat as possible so that the Thermal Interface Material(TIM) gets the best spread and as thin as possible without allowing contact between the two surfaces. There is no need to take it all the way down to Copper since that could possibly expose too much of the CPU and should your cooling surface make contact with it that's all she wrote. That CPU will be toast.

The way to find out if your CPU needs to be lapped, is to take the straightest edge you can and lay it on the surface of the CPU. Most NotB chips will have a dome in the middle and Rises on the sides. You just look at your CPU with the straight edge on it to see if you see daylight under it. Some chips won't have alot of that and won't need to be lapped as doing so wouldn't make a significant difference in cooling.

Was gonna add some pics but my stupid photobucket isn't cooperating.









~Ceadder










I thought the entire point of tim was to fill any air gaps between the two surfaces?
If you have two perfectly flat surfaces, how is tim going to improve the heat transfer from one surface to the other? If there are any air gaps between the two surfaces, the tim fills those gaps allowing better heat transfer. If there are zero gaps tim shouldn't be needed.

Of course, I suppose it will fill any micro gaps. I would sure like to see a comparison of tim and no tim on lapped CPU and cooler surfaces. I never really thought about it much until your comment, but it seems to me on perfectly flat metal surfaces you should get pretty good heat transfer with no tim at all.

Anyone ever test this?


----------



## liquidmetal17

That seems like a pretty bad plan. Even if the surfaces look to be perfectly flat, I can promise that they aren't. The point of the thermal paste is to fill in the imperfections, microscopic or otherwise, on both surfaces so that there is contact across the entire surface. Otherwise you'll end up with hot spots on the CPU, which is obviously less than ideal.


----------



## BradleyW

Am in!


----------



## grillinman

No TIM in this video...

  
 You Tube


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*


I thought the entire point of tim was to fill any air gaps between the two surfaces?
If you have two perfectly flat surfaces, how is tim going to improve the heat transfer from one surface to the other? If there are any air gaps between the two surfaces, the tim fills those gaps allowing better heat transfer. If there are zero gaps tim shouldn't be needed.

Of course, I suppose it will fill any micro gaps. I would sure like to see a comparison of tim and no tim on lapped CPU and cooler surfaces. I never really thought about it much until your comment, but it seems to me on perfectly flat metal surfaces you should get pretty good heat transfer with no tim at all.

Anyone ever test this?












Quote:



When two surfaces are mated under pressure, the contact is not perfect, even for highly polished flat surfaces. Surface irregularities prevent
intimate contact of large areas between the mating surfaces. Solid contacts only occur between the high points of the two mating surfaces leaving a large number of voids between the low lying areas. Most of the heat transfer takes place via these solid contact points, but is restricted since the contact areas are very small. Heat transfer also occurs through the air entrapped in the irregular voids, but is extremely low since the thermal conductivity of air is very low compared to the metals that are in direct contact. In order to eliminate the air gaps and improve thermal transfer, a thermally conductive material is used. This material conforms to the surface peaks and valleys and displaces the air, providing more area for heat to flow and reducing the thermal resistance of the interface.


http://www.empf.org/empfasis/2009/De...tips_1209.html


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grillinman*


No TIM in this video...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wNcV4MMc9pA


Very interesting.

Oh well, not willing to go through the trouble to lap my cooling plate and the CPU and then test it without tim.

I don't think it would hurt anything to test the theory out at low loads though, I would still be curious to see how the temps were under those conditions. It would be easy enough to keep track of them during the test to prevent any damage.

Edit:

@alancsalt

From the same article:

"To increase the effective area of heat transfer (A), the voids created by the imperfect surfaces must be filled with suitable highly conductive thermal interface materials. Many different approaches have been adopted by the industry to fill in these voids. Thermal greases, soft metal films, soft metal plating, better machining, and surface finishing techniques are some of the commonly adopted approaches."

The portion "better machining, and surface finishing techniques" seems to me to indicate better lapping methods can be used as well as tim applications. After reading the article though, it seems to me that a lot of pressure would be required to perfectly mate the surfaces. It seems to me the level of machining the surfaces would make a great deal of difference. Personally I would still like to see a test on a CPU cooler specifically. I suppose it may be too much work, and a caliper would likely be needed to tell just how flat the surfaces are. I suppose this is the real reason for tim to fill the gaps, because the amount of work to get a perfectly flat mated surface between two devices would just not be economical.

Maybe when I upgrade my boards and CPU I'll try this idea out before installing the new hardware.


----------



## speedracer

Thank you for replying. I am curious then, what is the accepted (IF such a thing) amount of difference between ambient and what the temperature I am reading (such as with CoreTemp)? I assume the closer to ambient the better however, is there a rule of thumb 1~5 C difference doing=GREAT 5~10=FAIR and anything more= PROBLEMS?? We haven't turned the ac on yet (YES I live in FL) so the ambient in my office area is 79F or 26C and coretemp is showing 32C net difference of 6C. Reading several msgs that followed I installed a shroud (had a left over 120 fan and removed the guts) and it didn't seem to improve my performance. I am using 56CFM fans to mirror the original fans. In your opinion am I getting all the cooling I can get out of my system as it configured? Thanks for your input..


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grillinman*


No TIM in this video...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wNcV4MMc9pA


Vid was pointless imho, cause the member isn't even giving any information. Just showing us his nifty polishing of the Cooler and attempting to pick up the CPU with nothing but surface to surface contact.

Also to clear up some misconceptions of my post about this, I said flat. Just because a surface is flat doesn't mean there are no grooves or valleys in the surface. To the nekkid eye the surface may look completely without flaw, but even Marble has microscopic grooves and valleys after polishing.

The trick is to get the surface closer to the base of those grooves so less TIM can be used and the heat can be wicked away by the cooler. You cannot get an absolutely perfect surface no matter what you do.









The point is that the TIM will get a much more even spread and fill any grooves or valleys better.

It IS worth it. Maybe not for everybody, but for people who demand a cooler temp so they can overclock without crashing through the temp Barrier head first I highly recommend it.









~Ceadder


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *speedracer*


Thank you for replying. I am curious then, what is the accepted (IF such a thing) amount of difference between ambient and what the temperature I am reading (such as with CoreTemp)? I assume the closer to ambient the better however, is there a rule of thumb 1~5 C difference doing=GREAT 5~10=FAIR and anything more= PROBLEMS?? We haven't turned the ac on yet (YES I live in FL) so the ambient in my office area is 79F or 26C and coretemp is showing 32C net difference of 6C. Reading several msgs that followed I installed a shroud (had a left over 120 fan and removed the guts) and it didn't seem to improve my performance. I am using 56CFM fans to mirror the original fans. In your opinion am I getting all the cooling I can get out of my system as it configured? Thanks for your input..


I thought it was 6 to 8C at idle, but with multi core chips idle temps are poor approximations.


----------



## Crabby654

I bought MX-4 thermal paste for my Hyper 212+ which I just replaced with an H50. Would it be beneficial to remove the stock paste on the H50 and use the MX-4?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12874058*
> I bought MX-4 thermal paste for my Hyper 212+ which I just replaced with an H50. Would it be beneficial to remove the stock paste on the H50 and use the MX-4?


Stock Paste is the best available and comparable to AC5. Only without the blasted long Cure time of 200hrs.

It's Shin-Etsu G751. If you remove if and roll it into a ball you can pinch off what you need and then store the rest in wax paper and a ZipLoc storage bag.

You can definitely use the MX-4 but it's not as good as the G751.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## [email protected]

How long does Shin-Etsu G751 can last? I always wondered that myself. Even ARTIC SILVER 5? I always wondered. Anyone?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];12875632*
> How long does Shin-Etsu G751 can last? I always wondered that myself. Even ARTIC SILVER 5? I always wondered. Anyone?


I'm not sure I understand what you're asking here.









Not trying to be a wise-guy but could you try it again, only in english this time?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12874226*
> Stock Paste is the best available and comparable to AC5. Only without the blasted long Cure time of 200hrs.
> 
> It's Shin-Etsu G751. If you remove if and roll it into a ball you can pinch off what you need and then store the rest in wax paper and a ZipLoc storage bag.
> 
> You can definitely use the MX-4 but it's not as good as the G751.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Alrighty, lame I wasted money on the Hyper 212+ and the blademaster...and the MX-4. But I was all about the water cooling novelty







and it def works better than the 212+ (at least by 5 degrees)


----------



## alancsalt

Just thought this interesting:

*Curing Times*

Antec Formula 5 Silver Thermal Compound (1)
Arctic Cooling MX-1 Thermal Compound (0)
Arctic Cooling MX-2 Thermal Compound (0)
Arctic Silver II Silver Thermal Compound (2)
Arctic Silver 3 Silver Thermal Compound (3)
Arctic Silver 5 Polysynthetic Thermal Compound (4)
Arctic Silver Ceramique (5)
Arctic Silver Lumiere (0)
Cooler Master HTK-002 Thermal Grease (0)
FrozenCPU Copper Thermal Compound (0)
Innovative Cooling Seven Carat Diamond (6)
Jetart CK4000 (0)
Jetart Thermal Compound (0)
Masscool Fanner-420 (0)
Masscool AK-100 Stars Heatsink Compound (0)
Noctua NT-H1 (0)
OCZ Freeze (0)
Rosewill RCX-TC050 (0)
Shin Etsu G751 (0)
Shin-Etsu Microsi Silicon Compound (0)
Shin-Etsu X-23-7762 (0)
SIL Heatsink Compound (0)
Stars 612 Copper Grease (0)
Startech Silver Grease (0)
Thermalright Chill Factor (0)
TIM Consultants T-C Grease 0098 (0)
Tuniq TX-2 (0)
Ultra Thermal Compound (0)
Xigmatek PTI-G3801 (0)
Zalman ZM-TG2 Thermal Grease (0)
Zaward HSC-W (0)
Zaward HSC-G (0)
ZEROtherm ZT-100 (0)

_(0) No Curing Time or Special Application Suggested
(1) Antec Formula 5 Application Instructions (no curing time suggested)
(2) Arctic Silver II Application Instructions(48-hours minimum curing time recommended)
(3) Arctic Silver 3 Application Instructions (up to 200-hours recommended curing time)
(4) Arctic Silver 5 Application Instructions (up to 200-hours recommended curing time)
(5) Arctic Silver Ceramique Application Instructions (25-hours minimum recommended curing time)
(6) IC Seven Carat Diamond Application Instructions (10-minute evaporation time, 2-hour curing recommended)_

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=138&Itemid=1 (Testing done in 2008)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;12876096*
> Just thought this interesting:
> 
> *Curing Times*
> 
> Antec Formula 5 Silver Thermal Compound (1)
> Arctic Cooling MX-1 Thermal Compound (0)
> Arctic Cooling MX-2 Thermal Compound (0)
> Arctic Silver II Silver Thermal Compound (2)
> Arctic Silver 3 Silver Thermal Compound (3)
> Arctic Silver 5 Polysynthetic Thermal Compound (4)
> Arctic Silver Ceramique (5)
> Arctic Silver Lumiere (0)
> Cooler Master HTK-002 Thermal Grease (0)
> FrozenCPU Copper Thermal Compound (0)
> Innovative Cooling Seven Carat Diamond (6)
> Jetart CK4000 (0)
> Jetart Thermal Compound (0)
> Masscool Fanner-420 (0)
> Masscool AK-100 Stars Heatsink Compound (0)
> Noctua NT-H1 (0)
> OCZ Freeze (0)
> Rosewill RCX-TC050 (0)
> Shin Etsu G751 (0)
> Shin-Etsu Microsi Silicon Compound (0)
> Shin-Etsu X-23-7762 (0)
> SIL Heatsink Compound (0)
> Stars 612 Copper Grease (0)
> Startech Silver Grease (0)
> Thermalright Chill Factor (0)
> TIM Consultants T-C Grease 0098 (0)
> Tuniq TX-2 (0)
> Ultra Thermal Compound (0)
> Xigmatek PTI-G3801 (0)
> Zalman ZM-TG2 Thermal Grease (0)
> Zaward HSC-W (0)
> Zaward HSC-G (0)
> ZEROtherm ZT-100 (0)
> 
> _(0) No Curing Time or Special Application Suggested
> (1) Antec Formula 5 Application Instructions (no curing time suggested)
> (2) Arctic Silver II Application Instructions(48-hours minimum curing time recommended)
> (3) Arctic Silver 3 Application Instructions (up to 200-hours recommended curing time)
> (4) Arctic Silver 5 Application Instructions (up to 200-hours recommended curing time)
> (5) Arctic Silver Ceramique Application Instructions (25-hours minimum recommended curing time)
> (6) IC Seven Carat Diamond Application Instructions (10-minute evaporation time, 2-hour curing recommended)_
> 
> http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=138&Itemid=1 (Testing done in 2008)


I found the ranking the most interesting part. Both AS5 and G751 recorded the same temps. Reason G751 is ranked above it though is (0)

the AF5 though IS a bit confusing. Did Antec recommend a cure time or did they just summarily dismiss that thinking the enthusiast community would never listen to them anyway.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## alancsalt

That made me go read it again, and discover the 2009 results of an 80 way comparison. I assume they are the results you mention.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=12

For Mergatroid:








Quote:


> One high-profile overclocker (and Gigabyte GO OC 2009 champion) once told me that if the surfaces were lapped and polished as good as possible, and mounting compression was exceptional, then Thermal Interface Material would be an unnecessary component. He was right, because in a perfect condition (which is impossible to achieve) the processor and cooler would have metal-on-metal contact with nothing between them creating resistance. Since that scenario just isn't realistically possible, we have these products to provide excellent enthusiast cooling performance instead.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;12876254*
> That made me go read it again, and discover the 2009 results of an 80 way comparison. I assume they are the results you mention.
> 
> http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=12
> 
> For Mergatroid:


Yup. And have found no new source of information to update the list. Possibly because there aren't many new TIMaterials on the market at this time. Lots of new pads and maybe a couple new TIM but nothing noteworthy that I've read about. 2009 is old news but apparently not for TIM.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## scaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


But the lapp put my CPU at Ambient temp level. I won't go down any further until this Summer when the AC is running.









~Ceadder










yea I am going to make sure that there is a AC vent my computer is on top of.


----------



## wetfit9

HI everyone, first post here. I just picked up a H70 and got it installed last week. Idle temps are about the same, load temps was down 8c. I have a couple of questions if you guys don't mine. I am open for anything, so feel free. Right now I have a HAF X case with all the fans set for intake with the H70 mounted on the rear as exhaust.
1. Has anyone every tried the Noctua P14, the 140mm that fit 120mm holes with it.
2. Will lapping the base help any?
3. I read a lot where people recommend other kits, not ready for a full water loop yet, but open to the idea. Just unsure what would work best.
4. Right now I am only running a 4.0ghz over clock and i am at 40c idle which I don't like. I want to run a 4.2 daily overclock and push it higher to test and just see how far i can go.
5. I am a warm room, where sometimes the wife turns the fire place on and the computer only sets a few feet from it, so any suggestions I am open.

My thoughts is that I am going to have to do the full water loop thing, but I don't have $500 to pay for full set up at the moment. Any suggestions to get the best out of what I have or the a course of action that is not only good, but not to high in price. my system should be in my sig.


----------



## slowman87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;12904103*
> HI everyone, first post here. I just picked up a H70 and got it installed last week. Idle temps are about the same, load temps was down 8c. I have a couple of questions if you guys don't mine. I am open for anything, so feel free. Right now I have a HAF X case with all the fans set for intake with the H70 mounted on the rear as exhaust.
> 1. Has anyone every tried the Noctua P14, the 140mm that fit 120mm holes with it.
> 2. Will lapping the base help any?
> 3. I read a lot where people recommend other kits, not ready for a full water loop yet, but open to the idea. Just unsure what would work best.
> 4. Right now I am only running a 4.0ghz over clock and i am at 40c idle which I don't like. I want to run a 4.2 daily overclock and push it higher to test and just see how far i can go.
> 5. I am a warm room, where sometimes the wife turns the fire place on and the computer only sets a few feet from it, so any suggestions I am open.
> 
> My thoughts is that I am going to have to do the full water loop thing, but I don't have $500 to pay for full set up at the moment. Any suggestions to get the best out of what I have or the a course of action that is not only good, but not to high in price. my system should be in my sig.


1. From what I've read the Gentle Tyhpoons are the best for a rad setup. If you can find them. A lot of people are suggesting the Yate Loons fans too for a budget rad fan.

2. Lapping usually helps yes. Like maybe 3C max under load?

4. Yeah that is high. At 4.0 GHz on my 950 my (CPU) idle temps were never above ambient. It was at ambient whenever my computer was on. Full load never go above 48C CPU, the max core was 61C.

5. How warm is the room because that will be a big factor in how cool you can get it.


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slowman87;12904514*
> 1. From what I've read the Gentle Tyhpoons are the best for a rad setup. If you can find them. A lot of people are suggesting the Yate Loons fans too for a budget rad fan.
> 
> 2. Lapping usually helps yes. Like maybe 3C max under load?
> 
> 4. Yeah that is high. At 4.0 GHz on my 950 my (CPU) idle temps were never above ambient. It was at ambient whenever my computer was on. Full load never go above 48C CPU, the max core was 61C.
> 
> 5. How warm is the room because that will be a big factor in how cool you can get it.


The room is around 75 degrees, CPU is @41 but my cores are 1-35 2-31 3-34 4-36 5-27 6-34.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Do I need a different form of bracket for a P67 board? Is the H70 worth the price difference?


----------



## Crabby654

So the popular fan census for the H50 is the Scythe Gentle Typhoon (1850rpm)? Will 2 of those out perform 2 Blademasters (2000rpm)?


----------



## HOTDOGS

The LGA 1155 and LGA 1156 share the same mount?!







Still from reading about the H70 being "worth the price difference" I haven't found anything that shows it is significantly better. Any opinions? Also if I mount it on the back as my CM 690 II will I be able to still mount two 140s on top? Will I need too?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;12904103*
> HI everyone, first post here. I just picked up a H70 and got it installed last week. Idle temps are about the same, load temps was down 8c. I have a couple of questions if you guys don't mine. I am open for anything, so feel free. Right now I have a HAF X case with all the fans set for intake with the H70 mounted on the rear as exhaust.
> 1. Has anyone every tried the Noctua P14, the 140mm that fit 120mm holes with it.
> 2. Will lapping the base help any?
> 3. I read a lot where people recommend other kits, not ready for a full water loop yet, but open to the idea. Just unsure what would work best.
> 4. Right now I am only running a 4.0ghz over clock and i am at 40c idle which I don't like. I want to run a 4.2 daily overclock and push it higher to test and just see how far i can go.
> 5. I am a warm room, where sometimes the wife turns the fire place on and the computer only sets a few feet from it, so any suggestions I am open.
> 
> My thoughts is that I am going to have to do the full water loop thing, but I don't have $500 to pay for full set up at the moment. Any suggestions to get the best out of what I have or the a course of action that is not only good, but not to high in price. my system should be in my sig.


Disable the fireplace. Problem solved.









Oh and lapping does help and more than 3c worth. Problem is I can't really tell you what lapping an Intel CPU would do for your temps. I can tell you from experience however that it's more than 3c. My lapp gave me more than 10c in lower temp. And every lapp will differ due to location humidity and ambient temps.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## liquidmetal17

I would actually very much recommend relocating your computer. Having it sitting a few feet from an in use fire place is not a good plan. Especially if your wife's idea of a fire is anything like my dad's. >.>


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slowman87;12904514*
> 1. From what I've read the Gentle Tyhpoons are the best for a rad setup. If you can find them. A lot of people are suggesting the Yate Loons fans too for a budget rad fan.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12905454*
> So the popular fan census for the H50 is the Scythe Gentle Typhoon (1850rpm)? Will 2 of those out perform 2 Blademasters (2000rpm)?


GTs are definitely not the best rad fans. In fact, they're only average quality for rad use; and will not improve cooling over the stock fans. Although they have high CFM, they have a very low Static Pressure; and Static Pressure is the most important spec for a rad fan, or high-end heatsink fan for that matter. They're much better as case fans, where SP is not important, but CFM is.

Static Pressure is a measure how much force is applied to the air. When pushing air through an open space like the inside of a case, there isn't much resistance. By contrast, watercooling rads, and higher-end air coolers, have quite a bit of resistance to airflow. If your fans don't have enough pressure to force the air past that resistance, all they're going to do is push the majority of the air around in a circle instead of through the rad. This is known as the "stall pressure".

SP is not a huge problem for a narrow rad like the H50 and H60; but it is definitely a significant issue for wider ones like the H70 (and higher-end watercooling kits).

The reason that GT AP-15s are so popular for the Corsair coolers is because they have roughly equal performance to the stock fans, while having a much lower noise level. Despite their high CFM, they're not necessary pushing all that air through the rad, because of their low SP. A lot of it is simply wasted; but enough gets through to maintain an adequate performance (again, this is less important for narrow rads). Yate Loons have a good SP, and perform better than the stock fans; but they also have a significantly higher noise level.

My personal preference for my H70 is Akasa Vipers. They have a similar CFM to the GT AP-15s; but with a substantially higher SP, which means more of the air is going through the rad, instead of just being pushed around. They have a slightly higher noise profile than the GTs; but lower than the stock fans or Yate Loons. And they cost about the same or less than the GTs. The Noctua fans are even better for rads; but they'll cost quite a bit more, and generate more noise.


----------



## Crabby654

I'm debating between these 2 fans:

I hear Yate Loons are good (I also like them because they are red and match my lights).
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10269/fan-669/Yate_Loon_Clear_120mm_x_25mm_Red_LED_Fan_-_Medium_Speed_D12SM-12.html

Or these Blade Masters. I actually have 2 of these at the moment but should I replace them with the Yate Loons for better performance and noise level? I'm more in it for performance but less noise would be nice.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103069&cm_re=blade_master-_-35-103-069-_-Product


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS;12906120*
> The LGA 1155 and LGA 1156 share the same mount?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still from reading about the H70 being "worth the price difference" I haven't found anything that shows it is significantly better. Any opinions? Also if I mount it on the back as my CM 690 II will I be able to still mount two 140s on top? Will I need too?


Hello?


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;12904103*
> HI everyone, first post here. I just picked up a H70 and got it installed last week. Idle temps are about the same, load temps was down 8c. I have a couple of questions if you guys don't mine. I am open for anything, so feel free. Right now I have a HAF X case with all the fans set for intake with the H70 mounted on the rear as exhaust.
> 1. Has anyone every tried the Noctua P14, the 140mm that fit 120mm holes with it.
> 2. Will lapping the base help any?


1. I haven't tried the P14s; but they should be good fans for the H70, good Static Pressure and CFM, low noise. And Noctua components are typically very high quality.

2. Lapping will help considerably. The base is very rough, and substantially concave. After lapping mine and upgrading the fans, I saw a 10C-12C drop in temps (my H70 is mounted as exhaust, same as yours). You may not see that much of a drop, since your ambient temps are higher than mine; but you should still a substantantial drop in both idle and load temps.


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12907450*
> Or these Blade Masters. I actually have 2 of these at the moment but should I replace them with the Yate Loons for better performance and noise level? I'm more in it for performance but less noise would be nice.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103069&cm_re=blade_master-_-35-103-069-_-Product


Stick with the BladeMasters. You'll get much better performance overall than the Yate Loons; and the Loons will be noiser. If noise is an issue, get a fan controller or dial them down manually in BIOS. If you really want to decrease noise, spend a few more bucks for the Akasa Vipers. They're very similar to the BladeMasters, but with a somewhat lower noise profile.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12907450*
> I'm debating between these 2 fans:
> 
> I hear Yate Loons are good (I also like them because they are red and match my lights).
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10269/fan-669/Yate_Loon_Clear_120mm_x_25mm_Red_LED_Fan_-_Medium_Speed_D12SM-12.html
> 
> Or these Blade Masters. I actually have 2 of these at the moment but should I replace them with the Yate Loons for better performance and noise level? I'm more in it for performance but less noise would be nice.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103069&cm_re=blade_master-_-35-103-069-_-Product


You want to get them from Performance-PCs.com if you want them. I took the liberty of direct linking to the Medium Speeds. Still adjustable with a controller but you'll save over Frozens because what you see is what you get and no way to drop the price down. $4 each is nothing to sneeze at when you stop to consider shipping costs will make those Frozen models pretty spendy.










I love my Yates. Would only run something else if they were given to me and only if they were better than my Yates.









And NO Yates are NOT noisier. Only if you run them at full speed side by side with the Yate Loon High Speeds are Yates "noisier" . There are three speed variations to the Yates. The BMs' only one. But yeah the Yates are noisier.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Crabby654

Hmm 2 different opinions! Performance or Noise and style?! How to choose









Also, what is lapping and should I do it to my H50?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12907650*
> Hmm 2 different opinions! Performance or Noise and style?! How to choose
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, what is lapping and should I do it to my H50?


The ones I linked you to will be perfectly enjoyable on the style and "noise" points. They are the mid range Yates and are quieter than the High Speeds.









Lapping is flattening and yes you should do it. Just remember to save the stock paste on a piece of Wax Paper and stored in a ZipLoc baggie til you need it. Pinch off only as much as you need because it's pasted on pretty thickly by the manufacturer. You'll need 3 grits of paper. I used 1600, 1800 and 2000 grit from the local Napa Automotive Paint distribution center.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## alancsalt

Lapping = smoothing and flattening surfaces, usually with grit paper on a glass surface.

Search YouTube for "lapping cpu" and u should get some demo clips.


----------



## Crabby654

@Ceadderman - I just watched your youtube video and I have the same exact case and obviously an H50, I also noticed you have all the fan slots taken up. Could you explain the direction of the airflow in your case and is your H50 intake or exhaust?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12907733*
> @Ceadderman - I just watched your youtube video and I have the same exact case and obviously an H50, I also noticed you have all the fan slots taken up. Could you explain the direction of the airflow in your case and is your H50 intake or exhaust?


Yeah my H50 is setup in Exhaust. Floor fan is intake. Rear fan is Exhaust, Ceiling 200 is Exhaust and the other two 200s' are Intake.

I just edited one of my photbucket pics to give you a better idea.









Hope you caught the one with Music. The other one that is the same has the fans being too loud but that's cause my Webcam Mic is set to the highest point and I didn't lessen the setting before filming it. It really becomes apparent when the flow blows directly into the mic.









Nvm that one is not too bad you hear the 5770 more than anthing else. That sucker can definitely clear a room when it's over 60%.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Crabby654

Ok ya that pic helps. I tried having my H50 as exhaust up there but I got way higher temps than having it as intake, makes me sad. But I do like how all of your fans are red...is your side fan also red?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12907879*
> Ok ya that pic helps. I tried having my H50 as exhaust up there but I got way higher temps than having it as intake, makes me sad. But I do like how all of your fans are red...is your side fan also red?


Yup and it's still not bright enough to suit me.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Crabby654

I just ordered 4 yate loon red leds...hmm still debating how I should place my H50..might keep it as intake.


----------



## Crabby654

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27144

Says tolerable 40dba, I wonder if that will be to loud. The Blademasters I have are around 40dba and they are annoying on full speed. But if it says TOLERABLE hmmm..


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12907952*
> I just ordered 4 yate loon red leds...hmm still debating how I should place my H50..might keep it as intake.


4? I take it you got the 140 too?









You might try exhaust again with the Yate-Loons in place. Mine ran hotter when I tried to run them in Intake in the ceiling. Probably cause it was recycling the Exhaust from the 200 up there. I didn't want to set up as intake in the front cause it would be counter productive to my filter kit. I used electrical tape to seal the front 5.25 bays to minimize dust intake there.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Crabby654

Hmm 140?

Edit: oh the 140 for the back, ya i'll change that.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Any input on my question yet haha


----------



## Ctrl+Alt+Del

H50 with one Ultra Kaze!!!!!! HIIIIIYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS;12908025*
> Any input on my question yet haha


Yes same mount, use the dual thread inserts(two holes) in the ring then place the steel inserts in their appropriate spots to reflect the position on the motherboard. Then when you're ready to cinch it up make sure that the inserts are set to the proper locations to line up properly and tighten them up.









The H70 is good. But it's not yet at the price point to compete dollar for dollar with a modded H50.

Which is why I will continue to suggest the H50 over the H70.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Crabby654

Damn you Ceadderman...now I'm looking at 200mm fans on newegg for 22 bucks each..red LED.... >.>

Are they 200mm fans that that case supports? The CM website said 230mm


----------



## MuzicFreq

Hmm I was thinking about getting an air cooler buuuut I saw the Corsair H60 at Frys and decided to do some research on it. Just want to know if anyone else has picked one of these up or not. Also a tad skeptical on the AMD install since it uses the clips on the AM2/3 bracket >.>


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ctrl+Alt+Del;12908040*
> H50 with one Ultra Kaze!!!!!! HIIIIIYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!


I did that. (A 3000 with shroud on push side)









I have to admit it was a noisy solution though...


----------



## m3th0d

Just installed my H50 with a push/pull intake config. and it's idling at 21 C. Can anyone tell me if this is good or bad? And what are some good programs to stress test? Or can I just run some games?


----------



## Crabby654

@m3th0d - Try out LinX or Intel Burn Test at maximum memory usage for a good temp test.


----------



## MuzicFreq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m3th0d;12908249*
> Just installed my H50 with a push/pull instake config. and it's idling at 21 C. Can anyone tell me if this is good or bad? And what are some good programs to stress test? Or can I just run some games?


Quickly unplug your PC before you burn it up!!!
NAaaaahhhh thats cool. My cpu idles at 38 with my GeminII S air cooler and hits 60 full load


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12908119*
> Yes same mount, use the dual thread inserts(two holes) in the ring then place the steel inserts in their appropriate spots to reflect the position on the motherboard. Then when you're ready to cinch it up make sure that the inserts are set to the proper locations to line up properly and tighten them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The H70 is good. But it's not yet at the price point to compete dollar for dollar with a modded H50.
> 
> Which is why I will continue to suggest the H50 over the H70.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


So I should still be able to use the two 140mms at the top of my case? Should the corsair fan be pulling air in or pushing it out? Probably pulling air in to cool the rad right?


----------



## Crabby654

@HOTDOGS - I think it's different for a lot of people, I mean with the Blademasters fans I have I set it to exhaust in the top back of my case and was getting 59c cpu and when I turned the fans around as intake in the same spot and was getting 55c cpu. I'd just try it both ways with LinX and just run a temp monitor program to see the difference.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12908369*
> @HOTDOGS - I think it's different for a lot of people, I mean with the Blademasters fans I have I set it to exhaust in the top back of my case and was getting 59c cpu and when I turned the fans around as intake in the same spot and was getting 55c cpu. I'd just try it both ways with LinX and just run a temp monitor program to see the difference.


I'll do that when I get this build going! Thanks for the help! If I keep the corsair fan on I should have good temps with SB right, if I add my extra CM 120mm that came stock with my CM 690 II I should be good right?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12908141*
> Damn you Ceadderman...now I'm looking at 200mm fans on newegg for 22 bucks each..red LED.... >.>
> 
> Are they 200mm fans that that case supports? The CM website said 230mm


Get the 200 from performance as well. You can have it added to your other purchase. It costs $18 and is sleeved.









You're welcome by the way.







lulz

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Crabby654

Its out of stock on performance, but +rep for the website, had no idea it existed. But not a bad price tho for what I bought.

All Red LED








2x 120mm Yate Loons High Speed (H50 fans)
1x 120mm Yate Loon Low speed (bottom fan mount)
1x 140mm Yate Loon Low speed (Back exhaust fan mount)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12908440*
> Its out of stock on performance, but +rep for the website, had no idea it existed. But not a bad price tho for what I bought.
> 
> All Red LED
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2x 120mm Yate Loons High Speed (H50 fans)
> 1x 120mm Yate Loon Low speed (bottom fan mount)
> 1x 140mm Yate Loon Low speed (Back exhaust fan mount)


Shoulda went with Meds but HS are okay. Hope you can set them to reasonable speed via your MoBo.









Oh and linked the better vid to my Sig. It's MUCH better. Make sure to watch it on maximum p though.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m3th0d;12908249*
> Just installed my H50 with a push/pull intake config. and it's idling at 21 C. Can anyone tell me if this is good or bad? And what are some good programs to stress test? Or can I just run some games?


That's good, remember your Intel will post -10c less than actual c. So you're running 31c and that's good for Intel.









On another note, hope your Blahdgers are ready for the Champs.







lulz

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Booty Warrior

So I finally got my H60... and so far my temps seem... unimpressive.

I have it exhausting at the back of my case, in a push/pull setup and my idle temps are 28-30c which is a about 2-3c cooler than when I was using an A70. The load temps, on the other hand, (using intel burn test) are ~60c, which is actually 3c warmer than the A70...

This is all at stock btw. Is this normal? Do I need to reseat it? I was expecting better temps than that. *shrug*


----------



## Crabby654

@bootywarrior - Try adding another fan on it for a push/pull setup. I'd play around with if you want to have it as intake or exhaust, by switching mine to intake I lost about 5c on my load temps. Some people have better performance with exhaust tho.

But ya I went from a 212+ to an H50 and I wasn't expecting a massive difference, to be honest my max load temp went down by like 2c, but I was more buying it for the novelty of water cooling and spending money.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Booty Warrior;12908598*
> So I finally got my H60... and so far my temps seem... unimpressive.
> 
> I have it exhausting at the back of my case, in a push/pull setup and my idle temps are 28-30c which is a about 2-3c cooler than when I was using an A70. The load temps, on the other hand, (using intel burn test) are ~60c, which is actually 3c warmer than the A70...
> 
> This is all at stock btw. Is this normal? Do I need to reseat it? I was expecting better temps than that. *shrug*


If you didn't remove the stock TIM, I doubt a reseat would change anything. You might modify it the way we've modified the H50 though. Like remove the stock TIM(save and reuse it if you can) flatten the cooling plate by lapping it(if possible, since I've never seen the actual undercarriage) and put a shroud in between the Pusher fan and the Rad.

Please keep in mind however this is not an Acetek system which the H50 and H70 are. Some things are bound to be different.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Crabby654

Would a shroud help an H50 setup? Probably should have asked that and bought one before I ordered those fans :|


----------



## Booty Warrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12908650*
> @bootywarrior - Try adding another fan on it for a push/pull setup. I'd play around with if you want to have it as intake or exhaust, by switching mine to intake I lost about 5c on my load temps. Some people have better performance with exhaust tho.


Yeah it's in push/pull atm, but with the way the Phantom's fans are laid out, I can't really set it up as an intake without disrupting my air flow.
Quote:


> But ya I went from a 212+ to an H50 and I wasn't expecting a massive difference, to be honest my max load temp went down by like 2c, but I was more buying it for the novelty of water cooling and spending money.


Haha yeah, on the plus side it does look badass. And I can feel like a water-cooling big shot!









Edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12908717*
> If you didn't remove the stock TIM, I doubt a reseat would change anything. You might modify it the way we've modified the H50 though. Like remove the stock TIM(save and reuse it if you can) flatten the cooling plate by lapping it(if possible, since I've never seen the actual undercarriage) and put a shroud in between the Pusher fan and the Rad.
> 
> Please keep in mind however this is not an Acetek system which the H50 and H70 are. Some things are bound to be different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Ah, thanks for the suggestions! Yeah I kept the stock TIM. I'll probably play around with it this weekend when I'm feeling less lazy.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12908731*
> Would a shroud help an H50 setup? Probably should have asked that and bought one before I ordered those fans :|


No no you're fine. Just take the stock fan and hack the fan out of the housing as close to the housing as possible to avoid having the bar create a vortex in the flow.

Trust me it makes a difference but not the same difference those fans will make.









I sealed mine up with 120mm fan silencers to keep all the flow going in the same direction.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Crabby654

I am second guessing getting those High Speed ones haha...hmm I never did get speedfan to work properly.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12908846*
> I am second guessing getting those High Speed ones haha...hmm I never did get speedfan to work properly.


Well if they haven't shipped yet have them subsitute the Medium Speeds instead. I believe that they'll do that without issue.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Crabby654

Ya I just sent them a message, if they can't no biggie, I'll just get a controller at some point.

When I get those fans I might try to do the exact fan setup you have with your case Ceadderman. I did Like having the H50 up top instead of the back.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12908970*
> Ya I just sent them a message, if they can't no biggie, I'll just get a controller at some point.
> 
> When I get those fans I might try to do the exact fan setup you have with your case Ceadderman. I did Like having the H50 up top instead of the back.










I love it up top. I can see the entire MoBo that way. And where it sits next to my desk nobody who looks into my case knows that I'm running h2o unless they know what the H50 is and looks like.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Ubeermench

25c idle temps =D


----------



## wetfit9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *luchog*


1. I haven't tried the P14s; but they should be good fans for the H70, good Static Pressure and CFM, low noise. And Noctua components are typically very high quality.

2. Lapping will help considerably. The base is very rough, and substantially concave. After lapping mine and upgrading the fans, I saw a 10C-12C drop in temps (my H70 is mounted as exhaust, same as yours). You may not see that much of a drop, since your ambient temps are higher than mine; but you should still a substantantial drop in both idle and load temps.


Thanks for the in put, I will try lapping as I remember the base being very ruff. I will also try with the P14 in push/pull config and report back.

Yes I would love to move my computer away from the fireplace, but it separate the bedroom side from the office side of room. Not so bad in the summer as I open the vent with the AC on and all is good.

Question: I don't like the back plate and mounting screws that came with the kit. It seem as you may break the screws if put on to tight. Does anyone use a different back plate and screws to mount the kit and did it help with temps. If I fine something better I will switch cause I am afraid to tighten the plastic screws.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ubeermench*


25c idle temps =D


Hey man what is that app above the weather report on your desktop?









~Ceadder


----------



## Crabby654

I'm thinking about maybe trying the lapping method this weekend. I had a couple questions tho.

1. Do you do it both on your CPU and H50 copper plate?
2. If you do do it on the H50 do you unscrew it from the setup? (This is the part that is making nervous)
3. Do you use TIM when after you lap it?

If you can actually lose 10-12c I am really considering doing this.


----------



## alancsalt

1) You can.
2) Just undo both radiator and pump/heatsink from the PC. You don't have to undo the pipes/hoses.
3) Yes

Not everybody gets the same result. If your heatsink and cpu are reasonably flat already you would not get as much as someone whose cpu and heatsink were poorly machined.


----------



## jjsoviet

Can I join...?


----------



## alancsalt

The old H60 trick eh?


----------



## liquidmetal17

I thought that I had solidified my new build but now I'm rethinking the fans I want to use for my H70. I currently have GT-15's in mind. The new contenders are the Akasa APACHE and the Akasa Viper.

The APACHE has nearly identical airflow, 97.74 m3/h (57.5cfm) vs gt at 98 m3/h (57.7 cfm), with much higher static pressure and 16 dbA instead of 28 dbA.

The Viper has much higher airflow, 141.75 m3/h (83.4 cfm), and better static pressure than the APACHE, 2.98mm H2O vs APACHE at 2.64mm H2O, with similar noise to the GT at 28.9 dbA.

The Viper has a max RPM of 1900 vs the APACHE's max of 1300. It seems likely to be true that if I were to dial down the Viper's rpm to 1300 that its noise level would be extremely close to the APACHE's. Given that they have the same bearing and blade types, it seems reasonable that my guess should be accurate. If it is, the use of a fan controller makes the Viper better than the APACHE and the GT-15 in every way, including price (Viper - 13.95, APACHE - 14.95, GT-15 - 17.95).

Should I switch to the Akasa Viper over the GT-15? Is there an even better fan of which I'm currently unaware?


----------



## nicolasl46

I'v just finished putting toghether a new build, but my temps seem very high. About 50c idle, and 60c under load. I have an H50 with just one fan on intake. Should I add another fan topush-pull air through the radiator? IO'm using Antec Formula 7 Nano Diamond Thermal Paste. Any suggestions?


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;12913090*
> Question: I don't like the back plate and mounting screws that came with the kit. It seem as you may break the screws if put on to tight. Does anyone use a different back plate and screws to mount the kit and did it help with temps. If I fine something better I will switch cause I am afraid to tighten the plastic screws.


I wouldn't worry about the screws and backplate. They feel a little flimsy at first; but I tightened mine down firmly, and I didn't notice any sort of problem. They're actually quite sturdy.


----------



## cavallino

Played crysis for a couple hours yesterday and Aida64 reported a highest temp of 40 and averaging 36. I think I may feel safe enough to go for a bigger OC.


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12913987*
> I'm thinking about maybe trying the lapping method this weekend. I had a couple questions tho.
> 
> 1. Do you do it both on your CPU and H50 copper plate?
> 2. If you do do it on the H50 do you unscrew it from the setup? (This is the part that is making nervous)
> 3. Do you use TIM when after you lap it?
> 
> If you can actually lose 10-12c I am really considering doing this.


1) No, just the waterblock contact surface.

2) I removed my H70 from the computer; but didn't disassemble anything.

3) Yes, always use TIM, since there's no way to make the surfaces truly flat and even. There will always be microfractures and small variations in the surface. Just a few degrees of temperature change will cause the surface to warp enough to change the contact profile. I used IC Diamond 24 on mine; but the TIM that comes with the H50/H70 is one of the best out there.

I wouldn't expect a 10-12C drop with the H50, since it has a smaller rad. Most likely you'll see around 5-8C; which is still pretty good.


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquidmetal17;12916587*
> Should I switch to the Akasa Viper over the GT-15? Is there an even better fan of which I'm currently unaware?


I'm using the Akasa Vipers, and am very happy with them. They're definitely better performers than the GT-15s, but they do generate a more noise when they're running 1800+ RPMs. Adding a fan controller, or dialing them back in the BIOS will enable them to run nearly silently, and still perform well.

Plus, the yellow and black colour scheme looks really cool.


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicolasl46;12916951*
> I'v just finished putting toghether a new build, but my temps seem very high. About 50c idle, and 60c under load. I have an H50 with just one fan on intake. Should I add another fan topush-pull air through the radiator? IO'm using Antec Formula 7 Nano Diamond Thermal Paste. Any suggestions?


Anybody has any ideas? Please


----------



## [email protected]

Guys have you tried this?...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_172&products_id=24721

I am thinking of doing a experiment next week. Gonna order two of these and probably 4 more for my case and see if it makes a huge different. I love experiments!

See how the air regulates instead of spreading? This one pushes through! Imagine a good fan with really good CFM and RPM and this filter. Oh the imagination!


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];12919236*
> Guys have you tried this?...
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_172&products_id=24721
> 
> I am thinking of doing a experiment next week. Gonna order two of these and probably 4 more for my case and see if it makes a huge different. I love experiments!
> 
> See how the air regulates instead of spreading? This one pushes through! Imagine a good fan with really good CFM and RPM and this filter. Oh the imagination!


Hmm that comb thing looks really cool. You'd add it to your rad fans?


----------



## [email protected]

Yea! You add it to the fans!


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicolasl46;12916951*
> I'v just finished putting toghether a new build, but my temps seem very high. About 50c idle, and 60c under load. I have an H50 with just one fan on intake. Should I add another fan topush-pull air through the radiator? IO'm using Antec Formula 7 Nano Diamond Thermal Paste. Any suggestions?


Sounds like there may be a few issues. First, the temps may simply not be reporting correctly. Intel i7 CPUs have issues that way. There are threads in the Intel CPU forum that offer more info on that.

Assuming that the temps are reporting reasonably accurately, you just may not be seated cleanly, since you shouldn't be getting idle temps that high even with a stock config.

Some things you can do to reduce temps:
Lap the contact surface. The Corsair coolers have very rough and substantially concave contact surfaces. You should see a substantial drop after flattening and smoothing it out. There's more info on that earlier in this thread.

Add an additional fan, so that you're running a push-pull configuration. Adding a shroud to spread the airflow and eliminate hot-spots will also help.

Upgrade the fans. Moving to a higher-SP, higher-CFM fan like the Akasa Vipers or Coolermaster BladeMaster fans will help push more air through the rad.

The TIM you are using is good, but make sure you're not using too much. It's easy to overdo it.

Check your external air, make sure your ambient temps near the rad intake are low, and that you have good air circulation. If your computer is in a place where airflow is restricted, it may be pulling warm exhaust air back in.


----------



## Crabby654

Would this be a decent video to learn how to lap?

  
 You Tube  



 
I might actually try this on my CPU and H50 this weekend


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12919280*
> Hmm that comb thing looks really cool. You'd add it to your rad fans?


If you look at the way it's set up, it wouldn't fit on a rad fan; and it wouldn't solve the problem of hotspots. It doesn't appear that it would be all that useful, really, if you consider the physics of it. You're better off just using an ordinary shroud.

The only place I can see it being useful is for a case side fan, to direct air to a particular place (such as mosfet heatsink).


----------



## Ubeermench

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Hey man what is that app above the weather report on your desktop?









~Ceadder










Rainmeter

I forget what skin im using


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wetfit9*


Question: I don't like the back plate and mounting screws that came with the kit. It seem as you may break the screws if put on to tight. Does anyone use a different back plate and screws to mount the kit and did it help with temps. If I fine something better I will switch cause I am afraid to tighten the plastic screws.


Back in this thread there were a number of people who bought different backing plates, and a few owners have managed to get the inserts spinning in the stock back plate.

A google search at the time found a few backplates that could be purchased and were suitable.


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:



Originally Posted by *luchog*


Sounds like there may be a few issues. First, the temps may simply not be reporting correctly. Intel i7 CPUs have issues that way. There are threads in the Intel CPU forum that offer more info on that.

Assuming that the temps are reporting reasonably accurately, you just may not be seated cleanly, since you shouldn't be getting idle temps that high even with a stock config.

Some things you can do to reduce temps:
Lap the contact surface. The Corsair coolers have very rough and substantially concave contact surfaces. You should see a substantial drop after flattening and smoothing it out. There's more info on that earlier in this thread.

Add an additional fan, so that you're running a push-pull configuration. Adding a shroud to spread the airflow and eliminate hot-spots will also help.

Upgrade the fans. Moving to a higher-SP, higher-CFM fan like the Akasa Vipers or Coolermaster BladeMaster fans will help push more air through the rad.

The TIM you are using is good, but make sure you're not using too much. It's easy to overdo it.

Check your external air, make sure your ambient temps near the rad intake are low, and that you have good air circulation. If your computer is in a place where airflow is restricted, it may be pulling warm exhaust air back in.


Thanks a lot for the info, i will get right onto this thing and see whats causing the issue, at least now i know were/what to look for


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


Hmm that comb thing looks really cool. You'd add it to your rad fans?


Don't waste your money on it. Hacking up the stock fan and using the housing as a fan shroud will get what you need working to work. The dead spot(the area directly in front of the hub) will be moved off the rad and allow more flow over the vanes. Also with it being in between the Push fan and the Rad no flow gets waste since no flow can escape and go out in all directions like that.

If you're gonna get the silicon silencers just get standard 120s'. Don't waste your money on something that won't get you any temp decreases.









~Ceadder


----------



## Crabby654

Well I tried out my new thermal paste, MX-5.

The first two tests I have, I did them with LinX and they might also be not very good because I did reseat my H50 before these tests and most likely messed up the thermal paste (shin etsu I think?). I am also using 2 Blademasters at full speed (2000rpm) (they will soon be replaced with 1500rpm Yate Loons)

The overclock is:
955 BE @3.8Ghz @1.425v
2600Mhz NB @1.200v
8Gbs Ripsaws 9-9-9-24-1t @1600mhz

Exhaust with stock paste at full load:

29c - System
54c - NB
60c - CPU
58.4c - Core

Intake with stock paste at full load:
28c - System
53c - NB
55c - CPU
57.0c - Core

Not a bad decrease by making the fans take air into the case. But also I did reseat the H50 so the stock paste could be not working well. Also when I removed the stock paste it appeared really dried out and crusty, not sure if that's normal or not, I am not a thermal paste pro







.

Intake with MX-5 at full load:
28c - System
48c - NB
52c - CPU
52.5c - Core

Well I am satisfied with what the MX-5 did for me, oddly enough I had put about a pea size amount on the cpu, it wasn't spreading really well.

Just figure I'd post this since it involves using different paste for an H50.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


Well I tried out my new thermal paste, MX-5.

The first two tests I have, I did them with LinX and they might also be not very good because I did reseat my H50 before these tests and most likely messed up the thermal paste (shin etsu I think?). I am also using 2 Blademasters at full speed (2000rpm) (they will soon be replaced with 1500rpm Yate Loons)

The overclock is:
955 BE @3.8Ghz @1.425v
2600Mhz NB @1.200v
8Gbs Ripsaws 9-9-9-24-1t @1600mhz

Exhaust with stock paste at full load:

29c - System
54c - NB
60c - CPU
58.4c - Core

Intake with stock paste at full load:
28c - System
53c - NB
55c - CPU
57.0c - Core

Not a bad decrease by making the fans take air into the case. But also I did reseat the H50 so the stock paste could be not working well. Also when I removed the stock paste it appeared really dried out and crusty, not sure if that's normal or not, I am not a thermal paste pro







.

Intake with MX-5 at full load:
28c - System
48c - NB
52c - CPU
52.5c - Core

Well I am satisfied with what the MX-5 did for me, oddly enough I had put about a pea size amount on the cpu, it wasn't spreading really well.

Just figure I'd post this since it involves using different paste for an H50.


I don't believe that is normal could be your seat wasn't secure enough. Cause I use the stuff all the time and when I pull the H50 it's still moist when I look at it. I'm not sure what happened there.

You asked about lapping tutorials? That one you posted is how I learned. I was a bit annoyed that it wasn't longer(start to finish) but I saw how it was done and that's all that really matters. You can get those grits from most any Napa Automotive. I couldn't get it from my local but I could get it in the next bustling burg that I always go to anyway cost was about $20 for three different grits.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ubeermench*


Rainmeter

I forget what skin im using


Dude I don't know how to break it to ya but that's not Rainmeter. Not unless Drives and CPU processes were added to their inventory.









That's what I'm lookin at anyway. I like my guages but they don't give me drive info and I'd like to know what all 4 cores are doing instead of first core only.









~Ceadder


----------



## Crabby654

I'm still debating if I should do the lapping or not, I was reading some threads about people having worse contact and the heatsink and cpu not touching.

Edit: I was going to lap both the cpu and H50


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


I'm still debating if I should do the lapping or not, I was reading some threads about people having worse contact and the heatsink and cpu not touching.

Edit: I was going to lap both the cpu and H50


They aren't supposed to touch. If that was their aim then Epic Failure on their part. Lapping is only to allow the TIM to get better coverage between both surfaces to allow for better cooling. That's it. There is no other benefit to lapping.

Also those people complaining(just speculating here) may not have used a completely flat surface, may not have left the CPU on the paper(skipping, rocking it as they did their lapp), or may have used low grade paper or grits.

Any number of things could cause a bad lapp. The CPU is not the issue it's the CPU lapper. I would guarantee that to 95% accuracy even. I was a complete n00b when I did my lapp. But I've got shop experience going back to when I wore short pants in Gramps shop. I can tell you from that experience that there is a right way and a wrong way to do everything. I took the time to educate myself before jumping in. You're going the right way about it. And it's good to have a little apprehension.

Before you start just make sure where your CPU is at as far as flatness. I was lucky mine didn't have to go very far before the surface flattened out. You'll need the straightest edge you can find(carpet knife refill blades are great for this) to check how much daylight you can see under it. Giving you an idea how much of a dome you're looking to rid yourself of. Get the right grits of quality paper(I used 1600, 1800 and 2000) and use a glass surface to work on. If you can't find one at home you can get one from a Home Depot or Lowe's that you would use on one of those circular night tables. They're relatively cheap and you can rinse it off when you're done and then store it in a closet for the next time.









Just make sure to take your time. There is no reason to hurry through the process, even if your arm feels tired. Take a break if you're not up to doing the whole task in one sitting. Nothing wrong with that. I did. I started fairly late in the evening and felt really tired a few hours later. I wrote down what pass I was on and what count I left off at and secured the CPU at the beginning of that pass so I could pick right up where I left off. Then I hit the sack and started back in, bright eyed an bushy tailed, the next morning.









~Ceadder


----------



## Crabby654

Thanks for the input! I think I might give it a go this weekend. Would doing just the CPU be sufficient? or should I do the H50 plate as well?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12923158*
> Thanks for the input! I think I might give it a go this weekend. Would doing just the CPU be sufficient? or should I do the H50 plate as well?


Should do both. The H50 will be a bit of a chore. Don't spin the hoses too much. I used a two hand approach. One on the pump and the other on the hoses and closest to the Rad as I could get them. Take it nice and slow as the pump will tend to skip if you go too fast. I did it in figure 8 pattern turning it a degree after every 10 strokes. Turning a quarter turn every 10 doesn't give the paper enough time to do tha job imho.









Unfortunately I didn't think to capture the moment and there are no H50 lapps on YouTube that I am aware of.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Crabby654

Is it wrong that all sounded sexy to me.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12923864*
> Is it wrong that all sounded sexy to me.










whatever gets ya through the day brutha.


















~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Crabby654

Really tho again thanks for the help, think friday after work I might head down to the Napa and get sand paper.

Video I said to use: 600,800,1000,1500,2000 grits and do 30 pushes then rotate the cpu 30 more pushes. Do that 4 times to get all 5 sides. I'd assume the H50 would be the same thing but just do a figure 8.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12923935*
> Really tho again thanks for the help, think friday after work I might head down to the Napa and get sand paper.
> 
> Video I said to use: 600,800,1000,1500,2000 grits and do 30 pushes then rotate the cpu 30 more pushes. Do that 4 times to get all 5 sides. I'd assume the H50 would be the same thing but just do a figure 8.


You can do figure 8s' on both. I'm pretty sure that's what I did. And really 3 grits are all that you need. But I do recall him saying that now that you mention it. That's the problem with not having a videographic memory when you're away from your computer.









If you wish to get more paper though I wouldn't go with the 600. The 800 is perfectly rough enough as it is and you're gonna be using enough paper that it's not gonna matter how many grits you use. Also when you figure out how much of a dome you have you can mark your CPU with an X over the surface to let you know when you're ready to move up to the next grit. You won't want to do that once you get up to the 1500 though as the final 2 papers are for polishing not for flattening.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Lareson

I don't think I've ever posted in this thread _Whoops! Looks like I did when I got the H50, but I guess I can give a little update now that I got my CPU OCed to 4Ghz._ but I've had the H50 for about a month and a 1/2 now and I'm really happy with how it's working. On my i5-760 overclocked to 4.01Ghz, I'm running at an average temp of 27C idle and 50C under full load for about a 1/2 hour. Considering that I was getting about 45C idle with the stock Intel fan w/ no overclock, this is a vast improvement! Nothing special, everything's still stock on it. I do have it mounted to the top of my case with the fan blowing down on the rad. There's pics of it in my sig rig.

I was almost coming close on getting a water cooling kit, but when I saw the price of this and that it was a pre-assembled closed-loop system, I decided on the H50.


----------



## Famousoverdose

Are you guys using the Shrouds? I was recommended to do a Fan/Shroud/Rad/Shroud/Fan set up. I wanted to see if these really effect the temps much.

As soon I take some pictures of my first rig, I will join the club


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Famousoverdose;12927475*
> Are you guys using the Shrouds? I was recommended to do a Fan/Shroud/Rad/Shroud/Fan set up. I wanted to see if these really effect the temps much.
> 
> As soon I take some pictures of my first rig, I will join the club


Martin's Liquid Lab - Radiator Fan Orientation and Shroud Testing
Quote:


> Very suprising to me, my standard method of using the fans in pull is not the best. In addition the common thought that the deeper the shroud, the better is also not true, both push and pull benefitted the most from a single depth 30mm shroud and push with one shroud yielded the best temperatures which was about 1.9C better than a fan in pull as I had typically been using. It's very apparent to me, the hub dead spot affect is only one performance variable. The closer proximity of the fan blades is also creating turbulence and additional efficiency closer to the radiator, and there is also likely some benefit in push due to air's ability to compress and increased density (improved thermal properties) that's playing some role in these results.


----------



## Famousoverdose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;12927569*
> Martin's Liquid Lab - Radiator Fan Orientation and Shroud Testing


Could have just linked "I would always recommend a push/pull configuration for two fans and add a shroud to both sides if space allows."









Thanks for that article.

As of now, I am using the Corsair Fan in the push, and my Antec rear fan for the pull. I know its not optimal to use 2 different fans.

I have been reccomened the AP-15's, but ofc they are out of stock in Newegg, and I do not know of any local computer store that carries that kind of stuff. So are there other fans that are optimial to use for the P/P config on the H50? If possible, some with Blue LED's would be great! I want to keep the blue theme going.

Also try to include two cheap fans of the same size that I could use as Shrouds as well if you can.

Please, and thank you!


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lareson;12926247*
> I don't think I've ever posted in this thread _Whoops! Looks like I did when I got the H50, but I guess I can give a little update now that I got my CPU OCed to 4Ghz._ but I've had the H50 for about a month and a 1/2 now and I'm really happy with how it's working. On my i5-760 overclocked to 4.01Ghz, I'm running at an average temp of 27C idle and 50C under full load for about a 1/2 hour. Considering that I was getting about 45C idle with the stock Intel fan w/ no overclock, this is a vast improvement! Nothing special, everything's still stock on it. I do have it mounted to the top of my case with the fan blowing down on the rad. There's pics of it in my sig rig.
> 
> I was almost coming close on getting a water cooling kit, but when I saw the price of this and that it was a pre-assembled closed-loop system, I decided on the H50.


It's times like this where I want to try the stock corsair fan and remove my 2 blademasters


----------



## Demented

Hey guys...my Sandy Bridge parts are coming in today, and I'll be rebuilding my rig, so I wanted to ask a few questions that while I know are probably in this thread anyways, but would take forever to actually pinpoint.

I'm using MX-2 as my compound, and wanted to know what is the best method for applying it, as well as how much I should use. I've gotten prett good temps on my Q9550 (idle low 30's, load high 50's to low 60's), but since my 2500K is newer, I want to make sure I do the best job first!

Then, regarding my H50. I currently have it set to intake is in my sig. Since I'll be getting a second 5870 for Crossfire, and my case has no side panel fans for intake, I still think having the H50 as intake is the best plan. I think if I set it to exhaust, that the excess heat from the GPU's is what will be pulled into the H50's rad, and thus create warmer temps. If people have experience with a similar set up, please speak up about this.









Another thing, is I currently have my rad with the tubes on the bottom. I believe I have it this way since it seems to put too much strain/twist on the tubes if I flip it, but since I'm tearing apart my rig, I will be able to try it again. Or should I just leave it that way?

Thanks a lot for reading. I'm very excited about my Sandy Bridge, and I just want to prepare as much as possible so that the build goes nice and smooth, and I can fully enjoy my new rig!


----------



## nicolasl46

Today I kinda wiggled with the NB heatsink, added a 80mm fan on the side panel, plus I added a second fan to my Corsair H50 (push-pull setup) and temps dropped dramatically. NB temps are now around 70c Load, and 65c Idle (compared at 86 Idle and 96c Load), and my CPU is also running a little cooler, 38c Idle and 46c Load (50c Idle and 64c Load). So I'm Really happy right now.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Has anybody lapped there H50?


----------



## Booty Warrior

So when do we H60 people get to join the club?!

We're like family!


----------



## alancsalt

Just post, and keep on posting. The OP isn't updating the front page, but I don't think anyone would imagine H60 owners shouldn't post or anything like that.


----------



## b0ng0

I'm absolutely wanting to buy one of these, they look _too_ cool!

Just one question - H50, 60 or 70? Which one should I go for??


----------



## scaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS;12928525*
> Has anybody lapped there H50?


At the top of the tread the is a "Search this Thread". Put in lapped and you will find hundreds of people like me who have lapped their H50.


----------



## scaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicolasl46;12928520*
> Today I kinda wiggled with the NB heatsink, added a 80mm fan on the side panel, plus I added a second fan to my Corsair H50 (push-pull setup) and temps dropped dramatically. NB temps are now around 70c Load, and 65c Idle (compared at 86 Idle and 96c Load), and my CPU is also running a little cooler, 38c Idle and 46c Load (50c Idle and 64c Load). So I'm Really happy right now.


I would get a case with better air flow then. You need to get that hot air out. pushing in cold air only does so much for you. You can also use that antec spot cool fan to pull hot air off your motherboard.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Antec+-+Spot+Cool+Case+Fan/8013339.p?id=1156203596895&skuId=8013339&cmp=RMX&ref=06&loc=01&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=8013339


----------



## Cmoney

Added







Here is my push-pull setup in my new sig rig... I mounted one fan externally on my Corsair 650D. Now I am just waiting on my GT AP-15s to come so I can replace the stock Corsair fans.


----------



## Booty Warrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;12928999*
> Just post, and keep on posting. The OP isn't updating the front page, but I don't think anyone would imagine H60 owners shouldn't post or anything like that.


How unfortunate...

Mind if I use the sig anyway?









Oh and for the record, I present mah baby:










Edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0ng0;12929052*
> I'm absolutely wanting to buy one of these, they look _too_ cool!
> 
> Just one question - H50, 60 or 70? Which one should I go for??


Now that the H60 is out, I don't think there's much reason to get the H50 unless you can get a great price on it. H60 is between the 50/70 in terms of performance (and those two were already fairly close) but runs quieter than both according to the reviews.


----------



## Lareson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12928028*
> It's times like this where I want to try the stock corsair fan and remove my 2 blademasters


I'm quite surprised on how much airflow the stock fan has for being a 1600RPM fan. I put one of my Cooler Master 2000RPM fans I have on there and it didn't have the same amount of airflow as the temps were higer. The blades are extremely sharp too as I nicked my finger a couple times on them before I put a grate over it. The whole setup is also very silent, just a small gurgle I hear every once in a while if I moved my case. If I would add another fan to it to make it push/pull, I wouldn't be able to have RAM as I don't have the room.

If I ever do another rig, either for me or someone else, I'm for sure gonna suggest to them either the H50 or H60.

TigerDirect has dropped the price of the H50 to $49 after $10 rebate.
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5267687&CatId=1871

They still don't have the H60 yet, but NewEgg does, but the price of the H50 is still $10 more w/ the rebate.


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0ng0;12929052*
> I'm absolutely wanting to buy one of these, they look _too_ cool!
> 
> Just one question - H50, 60 or 70? Which one should I go for??


It really depends on your cooling needs.

I personally wouldn't bother with the H50 now that the H60 is out. The H60 has the same rad as the H50, but with a better pump. The H70 has a rad that is about double the size of the H50/H60, with a pump similar to the H60.

If you're on a tight budget, and/or you are using an older or smaller (2-3 cores) CPU with lower power requirements; then you should do fine with an H60. If you have a higher budget and/or a higher-end CPU (4-6 cores, especially the high end i7 procs which kick out a _lot_ of heat); then you're better off with an H70. Also, keep in mind that the H50/H60 only comes with a single fan, so you'll need to add a second if you want optimal performance.

Whichever one you get, lapping the contact surface is pretty much mandatory (at least with the H50/H70, although the H60 is probably the same); since it is very rough, and typically fairly concave. Upgrading the fans is a good idea as well, especially if noise is an issue. The stock fans are good, but noisy; and there are quite a few higher-performing, lower-noise aftermarket fans available for US$10-$15.


----------



## slowman87

Still loving my H70! Been folding for about 20 hours now 100% CPU usage and my CPU temp is 41C. Nice and cool! Excellent coolers IMO!


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scaz;12929189*
> I would get a case with better air flow then. You need to get that hot air out. pushing in cold air only does so much for you. You can also use that antec spot cool fan to pull hot air off your motherboard.
> 
> http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Antec+-+Spot+Cool+Case+Fan/8013339.p?id=1156203596895&skuId=8013339&cmp=RMX&ref=06&loc=01&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=8013339


I don't think I will be able to replace the case any time soon. That spot fan looks clever, I might get one and put it in between my GPUs and push the air towards the front 120mm case fan.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Could you build a better water setup for the price of the H70?


----------



## Crabby654

Hmm probably not, especially if you want to eventually expand. I'm not water cooling expert but thats what it seems like to me when I read up on the forums a bit. Seems like a cheap end kit to expand upon might cost around 140$ I think, the Rasa something at frozencpu.com


----------



## slowman87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS;12934272*
> Could you build a better water setup for the price of the H70?


I don't believe so and if you could, it's not near as easy of an install. The closest kits are like 130-140 I think and then you gotta put it all together and stuff. The H70 is great for the price/performance/ease of use. And this is all just my opinion.

My next build will be a "real" loop though, probably. But I do love the H70 no doubt.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12934301*
> Hmm probably not, especially if you want to eventually expand. I'm not water cooling expert but thats what it seems like to me when I read up on the forums a bit. Seems like a cheap end kit to expand upon might cost around 140$ I think, the Rasa something at frozencpu.com


Thats what I was thinking, I think I'll start with the H50 or 70 and then after I gain more knowledge and funds







I may go custom if I see it fit


----------



## Crabby654

Ya right now I have an H50, first ever water cooler for me. And I have my 955 OC'd to 3.8Ghz and it keeps it around 53c at full load. So as soon as I get my new fans and move some things around I may try to push to 4.0Ghz and see what temps I get


----------



## Aznboy1993

Is there something wrong with my mount or...? Seems like my temps are a bit on the high side. My ambient is like 25C.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12934410*
> Ya right now I have an H50, first ever water cooler for me. And I have my 955 OC'd to 3.8Ghz and it keeps it around 53c at full load. So as soon as I get my new fans and move some things around I may try to push to 4.0Ghz and see what temps I get


What fans did you finally decide on for push pull?


----------



## slowman87

At that many volts I'm not sure you're gonna get much better with the H50/70.


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS;12934672*
> What fans did you finally decide on for push pull?


I ended up buying 2x http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=26717

Apparently they will work better than my 2 noisey ass Blademasters. I Also ordered:

1xFor bottom Intake of case: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_69&products_id=27144

1xFor back exhaust of case: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_316_848&products_id=26391

I got my 2 red light tubes today..even tho it is impossible to mount a tube on the top of a HAF 932 ><

PS - Your avatar cracks me up everytime I see it


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12934925*
> I ended up buying 2x http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=26717
> 
> Apparently they will work better than my 2 noisey ass Blademasters. I Also ordered:
> 
> 1xFor bottom Intake of case: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_69&products_id=27144
> 
> 1xFor back exhaust of case: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_316_848&products_id=26391
> 
> I got my 2 red light tubes today..even tho it is impossible to mount a tube on the top of a HAF 932 ><
> 
> PS - Your avatar cracks me up everytime I see it


Why not GT's? I hear they're way better for rads. I think I'm going GTs on the rad and Yate mediums through my CM 692. Haha thanks, I thought it was funny too







Maybe GTs all through the case?


----------



## Crabby654

I could not find GT's ANYWHERE, I scoured every website and they are all sold out, at least in the US.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12935035*
> I could not find GT's ANYWHERE, I scoured every website and they are all sold out, at least in the US.


Dang well they're the same as yates but quieter


----------



## Crabby654

I just want to squeeze every bit of temp out of my H50, hopefully I'll be getting my fans sometimes around friday because friday night or saturday morning I'll be lapping my H50 and CPU


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12935127*
> I just want to squeeze every bit of temp out of my H50, hopefully I'll be getting my fans sometimes around friday because friday night or saturday morning I'll be lapping my H50 and CPU


Nice, I'm looking forward to hearing about it! Also I think there should be GT 140mms, will a GT push pull really be much better than a GT push setup on an H50 if I'm using a 2600k? Will the temps be that much better?










Will I still need two 140mm top fans if I have the H50 as a push pull, like should I just put the right one instead of both?


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS;12935017*
> Why not GT's? I hear they're way better for rads. I think I'm going GTs on the rad and Yate mediums through my CM 692. Haha thanks, I thought it was funny too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe GTs all through the case?


GTs are only average for rads. They're used mainly because they perform about the same as the stock fans, but with a substantially lower noise.

If you're looking for better performance, Akasa Vipers or Coolermaster Blademaster fans are your best bet for under $20. They're noiser at the top end, but with a fan controller you can dial back the RPMs to get lower noise, and performance will still be equal or better than the GTs.


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS;12935202*
> Nice, I'm looking forward to hearing about it! Also I think there should be GT 140mms, will a GT push pull really be much better than a GT push setup on an H50 if I'm using a 2600k? Will the temps be that much better?


According to the test posted earlier in the thread, with a narrow rad like the H50/H60 has, push-pull won't increase cooling significantly over using a single push with a shroud. Push-pull is more useful with wider rads like the H70 and custom kits.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luchog;12936005*
> According to the test posted earlier in the thread, with a narrow rad like the H50/H60 has, push-pull won't increase cooling significantly over using a single push with a shroud. Push-pull is more useful with wider rads like the H70 and custom kits.


Awesome, so would you recommended swapping out the corsair for a GT? Also could you peep this thread for me









http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling/978469-cm-690-ii-bb-vertical-fans.html


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luchog;12936005*
> According to the test posted earlier in the thread, with a narrow rad like the H50/H60 has, push-pull won't increase cooling significantly over using a single push with a shroud. Push-pull is more useful with wider rads like the H70 and custom kits.


I'd still like to use the 2 yates I purchased for my H50, but a couple of questions:

1. If I were to shroud the H50 (it is exhaust in this setup) would it be on the push or the pull fan?

2. Is there a guide to chop up the corsair fan to make a shroud? Thought I saw one but I cant seem to find it.


----------



## Famousoverdose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12936594*
> I'd still like to use the 2 yates I purchased for my H50, but a couple of questions:
> 
> 1. If I were to shroud the H50 (it is exhaust in this setup) would it be on the push or the pull fan?
> 
> 2. Is there a guide to chop up the corsair fan to make a shroud? Thought I saw one but I cant seem to find it.


So your push/pull config is exhausting instead of the bring air into the case? If so, what are your temps like doing that?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Booty Warrior;12928547*
> So when do we H60 people get to join the club?!
> 
> We're like family!


Just add yourself.

They should change the name of the thread to the Hydro Series Club.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS;12935092*
> Dang well they're the same as yates but quieter


I used Scythe PWM fans. They push 120 cfm at full speed, and with a PWM splitter the motherboard can control the RPM of both fans giving you a nice quiet system at low loads.

On another note, I have finished my build. I may add an LED chaser later and I was reading what Ceaddarman and Alancsalt had to say about shrouds, so I think I may add one on the push side of my H70 eventually, but for now this is it:


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Famousoverdose;12936723*
> So your push/pull config is exhausting instead of the bring air into the case? If so, what are your temps like doing that?


Whoops I should have been more clear. Right now my setup is intake and I am getting 28c core temp idle and 53c core temp full load.

The reason I said exhaust was because I have a HAF 932 case and I was gonna give it a try as exhaust on the top fan slot next to the big 200mm fan. Right now the internal air flow is all screwy since the back exhaust fan is now the H50 as intake.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12937350*
> Whoops I should have been more clear. Right now my setup is intake and I am getting 28c core temp idle and 53c core temp full load.
> 
> The reason I said exhaust was because I have a HAF 932 case and I was gonna give it a try as exhaust on the top fan slot next to the big 200mm fan. Right now the internal air flow is all screwy since the back exhaust fan is now the H50 as intake.


You want it intaking cool air from outside your case though. Is the 200mm exhaust?


----------



## Crabby654

yes the 200mm is exhaust. I literally have no where to put a 120mm intake fan without totally screwing up the air flow. I mean the bottom slot next to the PSU is intake but the H50s tubes would be dangerously close the 2 460's video cards.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12928028*
> It's times like this where I want to try the stock corsair fan and remove my 2 blademasters


Don't worry, your Yate Loons will be there soon enough.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12936594*
> I'd still like to use the 2 yates I purchased for my H50, but a couple of questions:
> 
> 1. If I were to shroud the H50 (it is exhaust in this setup) would it be on the push or the pull fan?
> 
> 2. Is there a guide to chop up the corsair fan to make a shroud? Thought I saw one but I cant seem to find it.


Shroud on push.
Just cut out the internals and smooth.

In anticipation of "how do I fasten shroud and fan/where do I get longer screws?"

Solutions to 6-32 screw problem:

http://www.overclock.net/11766461-post15596.html my fix 4 me

http://www.overclock.net/11768920-post15600.html DJ4g63t's fix
Use the fastening part off another zip tie.

http://www.overclock.net/11766844-post15597.html Mothman's fix

http://www.overclock.net/11769774-post15605.html Explanatory pic of Mothman's fix.


----------



## lazu

Hey guys,

I've got a Ggigabyte p67 ud4 arriving tomorrow. From what I can dsicern, the H70's backplate will sort of cover up a few of the solder points on the board. I was wondering if this would be a problem?

Mainly, can I still use the foam double sided tape that comes with the H70 kit? I'd imagine the tape/glue isn't conductive, but I'm a little worried about putting that on my new board hehe.

I know the H70 can be installed without the tape, but it sure seems like a royal PITA to do so (basically, I'd prefer to be able to use the tape if I...could...sorta know that the tape wasn't going to somehow short out the board or cause problems down the road.)

Thanks a million guys. I use this board *ALL THE TIME* for general info and overclocking guides, although this is my first post.

Thanks.

EDIT TO ADD: Posted a similar query on Corsair's forum, the tech support guy said it would be fine. Gotta admit, I'm still a bit freaked out about taping on top of the solder points...but...well...I guess I'm not sure what I'm going to do haha


----------



## HOTDOGS

So should I double up on GTs for a push pull setup like this? Or should I just do a single GT, a single blade master or the OG corsair fan push OR pull? How does the stock stack up against the blademaster, since it is about the same as a GT just noisier.










I don't want to make a shroud to be honest. I think that I should be good with just one push like stated earlier.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented;12928174*
> Hey guys...my Sandy Bridge parts are coming in today, and I'll be rebuilding my rig, so I wanted to ask a few questions that while I know are probably in this thread anyways, but would take forever to actually pinpoint.
> 
> I'm using MX-2 as my compound, and wanted to know what is the best method for applying it, as well as how much I should use. I've gotten prett good temps on my Q9550 (idle low 30's, load high 50's to low 60's), but since my 2500K is newer, I want to make sure I do the best job first!
> 
> Then, regarding my H50. I currently have it set to intake is in my sig. Since I'll be getting a second 5870 for Crossfire, and my case has no side panel fans for intake, I still think having the H50 as intake is the best plan. I think if I set it to exhaust, that the excess heat from the GPU's is what will be pulled into the H50's rad, and thus create warmer temps. If people have experience with a similar set up, please speak up about this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another thing, is I currently have my rad with the tubes on the bottom. I believe I have it this way since it seems to put too much strain/twist on the tubes if I flip it, but since I'm tearing apart my rig, I will be able to try it again. Or should I just leave it that way?
> 
> Thanks a lot for reading. I'm very excited about my Sandy Bridge, and I just want to prepare as much as possible so that the build goes nice and smooth, and I can fully enjoy my new rig!


Best TIM is Shin-Etsu G751, but if you're stuck with MX-2 the best method is probably dropping a Pea size amount into the middle of the CPU and letting the Pump squeeze it into place. The coverage should be perfectly fine. I did this with my TIM and typically average 31-35c at Idle to minor use. I never go over 40c at full load for what I'm doing though. Mostly gaming and watching movies. I'm pretty sure that I would if I were Folding or if I were running nonstop Benchies. Of course I'm not running OC'ed right now either.









Just leave your tubes at the bottom. Less chance for any air in the system to build up with it that way. As far as Intake/Exhaust you may have to play around with it a bit. I doubt the 5870 is going to affect much because I have a 5770 and the only temp it seems to affect the most in my system is the NB temp. Though I imagine that my NB temp would go up running nothing but a Hamster training on his wheel.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## HOTDOGS

should I just do a single GT, a single blade master or the OG corsair fan push OR pull? How does the stock stack up against the blademaster, since it is about the same as a GT just noisier.


----------



## Crabby654

Well Test #2 for my setup:

Test 1: NO SHROUD, MX-5 Thermal Paste, 2 Blademasters @2000rpm, Intake to case, 1 Run of LinX on max.

28c - System
48c - NB
52c - CPU

53c - Core

Test 2: WITH SHROUD, MX-5 Thermal Paste, 2 Blademasters @2000rpm, Intake to case, 1 Run of LinX on max.

25c - System
45c - NB
48c - CPU

49c - Core

I took an old Antec 120mm fan and just cut it out, didn't bother to sand it down or make it smooth, and just slapped it in between the push fan and the rad. I gotta say, I am actually surprised at this. Woot woot!


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12937350*
> Whoops I should have been more clear. Right now my setup is intake and I am getting 28c core temp idle and 53c core temp full load.
> 
> The reason I said exhaust was because I have a HAF 932 case and I was gonna give it a try as exhaust on the top fan slot next to the big 200mm fan. Right now the internal air flow is all screwy since the back exhaust fan is now the H50 as intake.


That's a nice case, and it has a ton of drive bays. Could you do without a few of them? Look around and you'll find examples of people mounting the H50 in the front drive bays. This would be perfect for you because you have lots of bays, a very large case, and the fans could pull air into the case allowing you to use your top/rear fans as exhaust.

You can purchase 120mm fan mounting kits for 5 1/4" drive bays. Maybe that would be a solution?

Here's an example: http://www.scythe.co.jp/cooler/kamabay.html

Or perhaps this: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10876/cpa-377/Li%20an_Li_Internal_Hard_Drive_Cage_-_All_Black_EX-332N%20X.html

I bet you could make this work as an H50 mounting bracket for your drive bays using a little elbow grease and maybe a drill:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12387/fan-cab-01/CabCool_1201U_Single_120mm_USB_Powered_Cabinet_Cooling_Kit.html

Gut the fan it comes with and use it as a shroud.

Here we go. Gut any 120mm fan, drill holes in the side that match up with the drive screw holes in the drive bays and there you go, a shroud with drive bay mounts. Put it between the push fan and the H50 rad and use it to mount the entire assembly inside three 5&1/4" bays. Since a 120mm fan isn't quite as wide as the drive bays you may need to make a spacer for one side, or two spacers if you want the assembly centered. It would look freaking sweet too.

Of course, there's always zip ties.


----------



## HOTDOGS

I wonder if the NB heatsink on the Asus P67 will get in the way for a push/pull?


----------



## Famousoverdose

Since I can not find any Ap-15's in stock, what are some other reccomened fans for P/P on the H50. Good air flow, but quiet. Blue LEDs are a plus as well.


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^Yate-Loon Medium speeds. Check out Jab-Tech.com or Performance-PCs.com both have comparable prices depending on how many fans are ordered.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;12938336*
> That's a nice case, and it has a ton of drive bays. Could you do without a few of them? Look around and you'll find examples of people mounting the H50 in the front drive bays. This would be perfect for you because you have lots of bays, a very large case, and the fans could pull air into the case allowing you to use your top/rear fans as exhaust.
> 
> You can purchase 120mm fan mounting kits for 5 1/4" drive bays. Maybe that would be a solution?
> 
> Here's an example: http://www.scythe.co.jp/cooler/kamabay.html
> 
> Or perhaps this: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10876/cpa-377/Li%20an_Li_Internal_Hard_Drive_Cage_-_All_Black_EX-332N%20X.html
> 
> I bet you could make this work as an H50 mounting bracket for your drive bays using a little elbow grease and maybe a drill:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12387/fan-cab-01/CabCool_1201U_Single_120mm_USB_Powered_Cabinet_Cooling_Kit.html
> 
> Gut the fan it comes with and use it as a shroud.
> 
> Here we go. Gut any 120mm fan, drill holes in the side that match up with the drive screw holes in the drive bays and there you go, a shroud with drive bay mounts. Put it between the push fan and the H50 rad and use it to mount the entire assembly inside three 5&1/4" bays. Since a 120mm fan isn't quite as wide as the drive bays you may need to make a spacer for one side, or two spacers if you want the assembly centered. It would look freaking sweet too.
> 
> Of course, there's always zip ties.


Why drill holes into them when you can use Zips to secure them in the bays?

Unless I install shallow mount Bay devices in them, I cannot use the top two bays until I go with a full loop system. Only reason I score over 30c is cause my system sits over the floorboard wall heater. And it's set up in Exhaust. I could probably have better flow but I'm only using one shroud and it's at the spot that matters the most. Between the Push fan and the Radiator.

Remember though if mounted at the rear of the case, 1 fan and shroud can be mounted on the outside of the system. Allowing for more room in the interior.









Sadly unless I get a Dremel involved I cannot to that with the top of my 932 as it's mounted now.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Crabby654

I might try mounting my fans on the top as exhaust when I get the yates. Just because my computer also sits next to my baseboard heating, but it won't be kicking on after mid april.


----------



## _REAPER_

Please add me to the group, I had to switch from a custom loop to an H70 due to a pending deployment, (My wife does not know how to care for my pc) so I thought it would be best to get an H70

Right now my idle temps at 4.2ghz are 30-32C and under full load 63-67C.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_;12939074*
> Please add me to the group, I had to switch from a custom loop to an H70 due to a pending deployment, (My wife does not know how to care for my pc) so I thought it would be best to get an H70
> 
> Right now my idle temps at 4.2ghz are 30-32C and under full load 63-67C.


Oh not bad.

Just go to the front page and add yourself bro.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## werds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Famousoverdose;12938870*
> Since I can not find any Ap-15's in stock, what are some other reccomened fans for P/P on the H50. Good air flow, but quiet. Blue LEDs are a plus as well.


If AP-15's are truly what you want I suggest waiting a few. As most places will be re-stocking shortly.


----------



## waldoh74

Loving my H50! nice cool temps and a lot quieter than the A50!!


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS;12936398*
> Awesome, so would you recommended swapping out the corsair for a GT? Also could you peep this thread for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling/978469-cm-690-ii-bb-vertical-fans.html


IMO the GTs are overrated as rad fans, since they have such a low Static Pressure; where they really shine is as case fans, since they can push a lot of air through a low-resistance area. Their only substantial advantage over stock fans is noise.

I'd recommend Akasa Vipers for rad fans; which are more easily available at the moment and are better suited for rads, with a higher Static Pressure, similar noise profile to the GTs at the same RPM, equally high-quality ball bearings, and roughly the same price.

I'm not that familiar with 140mm fans, not having had any reason to research them (all my fans are 120mm, except the 250mm side fan on my case). I do know that the Scythe SlipStreams get good reviews, but those use 120mm mounts, so are not true 140mm.


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


I'd still like to use the 2 yates I purchased for my H50, but a couple of questions:

1. If I were to shroud the H50 (it is exhaust in this setup) would it be on the push or the pull fan?

2. Is there a guide to chop up the corsair fan to make a shroud? Thought I saw one but I cant seem to find it.


1) Definitely on the push side. Shrouds on the pull side are less useful.

2) It shouldn't require a guide, just a good saw or cutting-pliers, and a piece of sandpaper to smooth out the rough bits from the cutting.







Just remove the 4 little bits that connect the fan's shell to the motor hub.


----------



## Ceadderman

I have Yate Loon as my 140. I replaced the stock fan with it and it's fricken awesome. Not too noisy considering that it's the YL High Speed and pumps a lot of air out of the case.









~Ceadder


----------



## rejamerah

Count me in



























































my q6600 had the h50

now my 990x rockin the h70

REALLY LOVE IT!


----------



## nerdybeat

I dig your rig, glad you are liking your H70. I am soooo close to upgrading my rig to a full tower... even though I just got my Antec 902 a couple months ago.

Fill in your rig too!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Hwy rejamerah, see those kinks in your hoses? Try your H70 with the rad flipped 180 degrees and the hoses at the bottom. Bet it will be quieter.









Your photos look like an Ad out of MaximumPC or some other tech rag btw. Mui Beuno!









~Ceadder


----------



## rejamerah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Hwy rejamerah, see those kinks in your hoses? Try your H70 with the rad flipped 180 degrees and the hoses at the bottom. Bet it will be quieter.









Your photos look like an Ad out of MaximumPC or some other tech rag btw. Mui Beuno!









~Ceadder










yeah its pretty loud lol! i might try that, thanks!


----------



## HOTDOGS

I know a custom 240 rad would beat this easy, how about a custom 120?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS;12943993*
> I know a custom 240 rad would beat this easy, how about a custom 120?


Kay man this is the Hydro Series thread, not the Radiators thread. Please raspeck the Hydros. They are very nice for what they are.

But to answer your question, most any Radiator could be better than this one given the size of the fittings available. The bigger the size of the fittings the better the flow the better the flow the better the cooling capability. Of course you have to have the lines, the pump and the reservoir to support it too. So you have to have the fundage to build the loop. You aren't going to find better than this for the same amount of money. It's just not happening.









My total cost:

for the H50=$80(Now ~$75 sometimes even less)
for Yate Loon High Speed Silents= $8
Shin-Etsu G751=$4
for 3" 6-32 toggle bolts and 6-32 Hex nuts=~$6
& ~3hours of work
~31c Idle/~45c Load=Priceless









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## HOTDOGS

Oh yeah, I can get the H50 for about 50 dollars (without push/pull). I was just wondering is all, if a custom 120 loop would be that much more worth it for a 2600k. I guess I should build and run this all first before I look into water cooling a ton.


----------



## alancsalt

2500K/2600K is a strange beast. Best OC between 15C and 20C. Depends on temps where u live whether full water would be any better.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;12944192*
> 2500K/2600K is a strange beast. Best OC between 15C and 20C. Depends on temps where u live whether full water would be any better.


I know right away this is going to sound stupid, but how do I figure out the ambient temp of my room? So I could give you an idea, I know it can get warm in my place during the summer but we recently just got central air.


----------



## alancsalt

I know right away this is going to sound smartaleck, but grab a thermometer.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;12944328*
> I know right away this is going to sound smartaleck, but grab a thermometer.


Thats what I thought, I thought there was more too it for some reason







Anyways my ambient room temp is about 21°C, 70 - 75 °F


----------



## Crabby654

Well I got my Yate Loons today and here is a test I did:

Original Setup:
Test 1: *WITH SHROUD*, MX-5 Thermal Paste, *2 Blademasters @2000rpm*, *Intake to case*, 1 Run of LinX on max.

25c - System
46c - NB
50c - CPU

50c - Core

Test 2: *WITHOUT SHROUD*, MX-5 Thermal Paste, *2 Yate Loons @1500rpm*, *Exhaust from case*, 1 Run of LinX on max.

25c - System
49c - NB
55c - CPU

54c - Core

Well the temps did go up a healthy chunk but I am going to chalk it up to removing the shroud and setting it as exhaust. This weekend I'm gonna be lapping the cpu and H50, I'll also be sanding the shroud and making it smooth and re adding it. I'll post another test after I do all that!

PS - The yate loons are soooo quiet I love them.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


Well I got my Yate Loons today and here is a test I did:

Original Setup:
Test 1: *WITH SHROUD*, MX-5 Thermal Paste, *2 Blademasters @2000rpm*, *Intake to case*, 1 Run of LinX on max.

25c - System
46c - NB
50c - CPU

50c - Core

Test 2: *WITHOUT SHROUD*, MX-5 Thermal Paste, *2 Yate Loons @1500rpm*, *Exhaust from case*, 1 Run of LinX on max.

25c - System
49c - NB
55c - CPU

54c - Core

Well the temps did go up a healthy chunk but I am going to chalk it up to removing the shroud and setting it as exhaust. This weekend I'm gonna be lapping the cpu and H50, I'll also be sanding the shroud and making it smooth and re adding it. I'll post another test after I do all that!

PS - The yate loons are soooo quiet I love them.


They send you the Mediums or did your get the High Speeds you originally ordered?









~Ceadder


----------



## Crabby654

mediums, I love them!


----------



## Ceadderman

See I tol ya PPCs is the Sheetzu.









Man now I really gotta change my fans out to the Mediums. I love them but sometimes these things can get quite loud.









~Ceadder


----------



## stimr2

I recently replaced my Scythe Mugen 2 with a H70. I read in this thread some people have had pump noises because of air in the system. If I mount the pump with the tubes on the side the pump makes a ratting noise.









If I mount the pump with the tubes on top the noise stops.









I've also let the pump run while I let it hang lower than the rad to see if it would help get the air out. Also gave it a whack or two. I've also mounted the rad with the tubes at the top and that didn't help either. I'm wondering when it was filled too much air was sealed in it.

So far with the pump mounted with the tubes at the top hasn't made the noise. I really haven't seen a performance increase with the H70 versus the Mugen 2. But that's what I expected, got to say it looks so much cleaner with out the huge chunk of metal sagging on the motherboard.


----------



## stimr2

Sorry double post.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12938963*
> 
> Why drill holes into them when you can use Zips to secure them in the bays?
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Actually I was referring to crabby654, didn't he have the HAF case? Also, the holes would get drilled into the gutted fan casing/shroud, not the PP fans. So there's no loss by drilling. I thought if he really wants to set up his H50 as intake, and he doesn't want to change the rear fan position to intake, and the bottom 120mm fan mount is too far away, the next best solution is the drive bays. Of course, he would have to use up 3 of them (something I personally wouldn't be willing to do), but other people have done it and it looked pretty nice. If I did it on my 600T I would have to remove my nice fan controller and the LED control mod I did at the front.

IMHO, I would never use zip ties except in such a case as I could not think up a better mounting solution. Zip ties are so temporary, and while that may be exactly what some people are looking for, I prefer permanent solutions. I understand some people may not want to modify their cases, or have to resort to a drill or dremel. Personally I like the opportunity to modify things, especially if I think I can do a good job at it. To me it's like working on your mint souped up muscle car and holding the fenders or spoiler on with zip ties.

Also, it's just me but I prefer all my components to be inside the case. That's one reason why I like the Hydro coolers so much. I wouldn't purchase a nice roomy case if I was planning on putting components outside the case. If I was going to do any "outside the case" building, then I would go for something cool (IMAO) like the Zalman Reserator I with the fan attachment at the top.

http://www.tweaknews.net/reviews/reseratorfankit/

That's purdy....









That might be worth putting outside, but then I would also have to make it worth having by upgrading my computer guts which are a couple of generations old now (this fall hopefully).


----------



## Ceadderman

I like that Reserator, but if you think about it too much could go wrong with it if it's not hard mounted to the surface that it resides. On wrong move and something like that goes SPLOOSH all over everything.

I knew whatcha meant by drilling holes into the shrouds But why do that when you can bolt your pan on the end with the shroud and then use the bolts instead? Drilling into them only allows air to vortex and muddy the flow. But with to sets of fans and shrouds and 8 bolts you have plenty of spots to attack Zips to and just need the room to cinch it all up in the 5.25 rack. You can still drill holes if there are corners getting in the way though.









Oh and if I was to go solid fizture for the setup I would go with a 4 in 3 device.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mergatroid

Lol, yeah not what you would want if you have kids around, or for a LAN party, or especially if you have a dog around. I'm sure the temptation would just be too much for him. I suppose a cat wouldn't be much better....

@stimr2

"If I mount the pump with the tubes on the side the pump makes a ratting noise. "

Wow, that would worry me. Honestly, if mine made a noise like that, especially when it was "upright" the way even Corsair mounts it, I think I would have exchanged it for another one. It looks really sweet in your case when it's upright too.


----------



## Famousoverdose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stimr2;12954010*
> I recently replaced my Scythe Mugen 2 with a H70. I read in this thread some people have had pump noises because of air in the system. If I mount the pump with the tubes on the side the pump makes a ratting noise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I mount the pump with the tubes on top the noise stops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've also let the pump run while I let it hang lower than the rad to see if it would help get the air out. Also gave it a whack or two. I've also mounted the rad with the tubes at the top and that didn't help either. I'm wondering when it was filled too much air was sealed in it.
> 
> So far with the pump mounted with the tubes at the top hasn't made the noise. I really haven't seen a performance increase with the H70 versus the Mugen 2. But that's what I expected, *got to say it looks so much cleaner with out the huge chunk of metal sagging on the motherboard*.


That is exactly why I love my H50.


----------



## DrakeZ

hi all, i'm new in here









okay i have problem with my H50
i just bought this cooler yesterday and install it today
everything fines and i set fan as intake (take fresh air from outside)

and when i tested it (phenom II x4 955) with prime95 running and i'm surprised with 56 degrees of maximum temp!
my old TX3 only have 51 degrees max temp
even it's same as stock cooler temp









here the ss









what's wrong with that? 
i already open my side case for better air flow but it's not affected

sorry for my bad english


----------



## Magus2727

Most Likely to much Thermal paste or an un even surface of the cooler or a remount is needed.

you can Lap (search for Lapping) the H50 and put the right amount of thermal psate and then see how it works.

The Hydro series does not have a very good mounting method which can be tricky the first few times to mount correctly.


----------



## Cmoney

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stimr2*


I recently replaced my Scythe Mugen 2 with a H70. I read in this thread some people have had pump noises because of air in the system. If I mount the pump with the tubes on the side the pump makes a ratting noise.









If I mount the pump with the tubes on top the noise stops. 









I've also let the pump run while I let it hang lower than the rad to see if it would help get the air out. Also gave it a whack or two. I've also mounted the rad with the tubes at the top and that didn't help either. I'm wondering when it was filled too much air was sealed in it.

So far with the pump mounted with the tubes at the top hasn't made the noise. I really haven't seen a performance increase with the H70 versus the Mugen 2. But that's what I expected, got to say it looks so much cleaner with out the huge chunk of metal sagging on the motherboard.


You don't have your Push/Pull setup correctly... the outside fan should be pushing fresh air from the outside of the case, and the inside fan should be pulling the hot air off the radiator (it is backwards, idk about the other fan because it cannot be seen in the picture), which is then exhausted out the top of your case via the top fans. The way you have it setup now it is going to be blowing hot air from inside your case onto the radiator. Some correct me if I am wrong, because that is how I understand it and have it setup.


----------



## MuzicFreq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magus2727;12960128*
> Most Likely to much Thermal paste or an un even surface of the cooler or a remount is needed.
> 
> you can Lap (search for Lapping) the H50 and put the right amount of thermal psate and then see how it works.
> 
> The Hydro series does not have a very good mounting method which can be tricky the first few times to mount correctly.


I dunno my new 955 also ran hot and I mean HOT with the H50 and no matter how many reseatings it still ran over 60 in Prime and now that I am using my old GeminII S aircooler it only hits 55 at max


----------



## Magus2727

The Hydro series is known to have a crappy base plate. Corsair will still provide full warranty if you lap the plate.


----------



## MuzicFreq

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


The Hydro series is known to have a crappy base plate. Corsair will still provide full warranty if you lap the plate.


Still not gonna just gonna get me a Thermaltake frio sometime since at stock my GeminII S is actually doing pretty darn good


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cmoney*


You don't have your Push/Pull setup correctly... the outside fan should be pushing fresh air from the outside of the case, and the inside fan should be pulling the hot air off the radiator (it is backwards, idk about the other fan because it cannot be seen in the picture), which is then exhausted out the top of your case via the top fans. The way you have it setup now it is going to be blowing hot air from inside your case onto the radiator. Some correct me if I am wrong, because that is how I understand it and have it setup.


That's not strictly true. It depends on how you have your case fans configured, and what your internal and external airflow is like. Ideally, yes, you should have it as an intake, but it's rather more complicated than just intake vs exhaust. I have mine configured as rear exhaust, and I get great temps. But I also have two GT-15s on the bottom front, and a 250mm side fan providing a good positive pressure airflow. Plus, the side fan is blowing external air right onto the rad. If I had it set up as an intake, I'd be sucking in warm air from my graphics card and PSU exhausts.

It just depends on what works best for your particular rig. And in many cases, the difference is only 2 or 3 degrees anyway.


----------



## Cmoney

Quote:



Originally Posted by *luchog*


That's not strictly true. It depends on how you have your case fans configured, and what your internal and external airflow is like. Ideally, yes, you should have it as an intake, but it's rather more complicated than just intake vs exhaust. I have mine configured as rear exhaust, and I get great temps. But I also have two GT-15s on the bottom front, and a 250mm side fan providing a good positive pressure airflow. Plus, the side fan is blowing external air right onto the rad. If I had it set up as an intake, I'd be sucking in warm air from my graphics card and PSU exhausts.

It just depends on what works best for your particular rig. And in many cases, the difference is only 2 or 3 degrees anyway.


Thanks for the info, good to know. I just got two GT-15s in the mail that I am putting on my H70.. maybe I will do some tests each way to determine what is best for my application. Although, one of my fans is mounted externally on my 650D, so I think the way I have it is probably the best in my circumstance.


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magus2727*


The Hydro series is known to have a crappy base plate. Corsair will still provide full warranty if you lap the plate.


Oooh fantastic, because I will be lapping my CPU and H50 this weekend...so if I some how destroy the H50 they will replace it! nice! Good thing I have an 212+ as a backup.. >.> <.<


----------



## stimr2

Like luchog I prefer to have mine setup as a exhaust because of the warm air dumped at the rear by the PUS and graphics card. I have 2 Zalman ZM-F3s in the front as intakes and a Scythe S-Flex G as a intake at the bottom. On the top I have 2 Sycthe S-Flex Gs as exhaust. I would of mounted the H70 on the top but it won't fit. I think I'm going to contact Corsair about the pump noise.


----------



## Crabby654

I should probably post this in the Air cooling forum but I am curious if this would be optimal for my H50 in terms of case fans:

Attachment 203247

The only fan you can't see is the side 230mm fan which is intake against the motherboard. I am only asking to see if anyone notices anything funny or odd with this setup or anyway to help out the H50 or put it somewhere different without borking my airflow.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cmoney*


You don't have your Push/Pull setup correctly... the outside fan should be pushing fresh air from the outside of the case, and the inside fan should be pulling the hot air off the radiator (it is backwards, idk about the other fan because it cannot be seen in the picture), which is then exhausted out the top of your case via the top fans. The way you have it setup now it is going to be blowing hot air from inside your case onto the radiator. Some correct me if I am wrong, because that is how I understand it and have it setup.


That's what Corsair ppls say, but many stick to traditional exhaust. Maybe 1 or 2c difference. It's a trade off. Coolest chip or coolest everything else. Warm chip air into case or warm case air out through rad.... Really, as long as yr case has plenty of fans sensibly arranged, not a big issue.


----------



## Cmoney

Ya I just did some idle/load tests and there wasn't a big difference at all. I saw my CPU temp raise 1C-2C, and everything else (MB, NB, SB temps) drop by 1C-2C... so I guess it really doesn't matter like you guys have already said. Now that I have my GT-15s installed I have opted to go with an exhaust setup.. simply because I love the look of the typhoon spinning inside my case


----------



## _REAPER_

Not done yet still working on the cables will have them sleeved soon. I miss my custom watercooling my case looks so big now lol.


----------



## Warblades

My build with H50 Dual Fan Exhaust
May i join the club !


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12961961*
> I should probably post this in the Air cooling forum but I am curious if this would be optimal for my H50 in terms of case fans:
> 
> View attachment 203247
> 
> 
> The only fan you can't see is the side 230mm fan which is intake against the motherboard. I am only asking to see if anyone notices anything funny or odd with this setup or anyway to help out the H50 or put it somewhere different without borking my airflow.


With the 230mm intake on the side, that looks like a pretty good setup for airflow; and very similar to mine (I don't have a bottom fan, and my case is a super tower).


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cmoney;12960246*
> You don't have your Push/Pull setup correctly... the outside fan should be pushing fresh air from the outside of the case, and the inside fan should be pulling the hot air off the radiator (it is backwards, idk about the other fan because it cannot be seen in the picture), which is then exhausted out the top of your case via the top fans. The way you have it setup now it is going to be blowing hot air from inside your case onto the radiator. Some correct me if I am wrong, because that is how I understand it and have it setup.


He has it set up in Exhaust flow. Nothing wrong with that. But that's if he wants it to keep the flow even. He may not(haven't checked what he's using)have a Cabby with solid ventilation so making that an Intake might throw off his positive pressure.

I have a 932 but I still might've set mine up to Exhaust had I set it up there. Instead I have mine mounted up top in Exhaust cause the 200 up top is exhaust. But I added another fan in the floor and made that one Intake. It's all in how you approach your flow.









Holy MoG this thread got busy while I was snoozin.









@crabby... I almost thought you stole my system. Then I noticed that your interior was grey and your tubes off the center bottom point.

@Reaper... Don't think I'll ever get used to seeing a Hydro series in your system. Hope your tour is short and sweet. Of course that means I age quicker. Just keep your head down an your powder dry man.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luchog;12964713*
> With the 230mm intake on the side, that looks like a pretty good setup for airflow; and very similar to mine (I don't have a bottom fan, and my case is a super tower).


Do you suggest I move the H50 around so the tubes are bending a diff way? I saw some people who their H50s tubes seem more bent or on a diff side than mine is setup.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12964829*
> Do you suggest I move the H50 around so the tubes are bending a diff way? I saw some people who their H50s tubes seem more bent or on a diff side than mine is setup.


Dude nothing wrong with your setup. I would have the Corsair logo completely right side up so maybe I would move the pump so the tubes are completely dead center at the bottom but w/o a bigger pic its hard to tell. I should probably take another look. But yeah that's about all the moving you might need to do. The less you play with your H50 the better.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12964935*
> Dude nothing wrong with your setup. I would have the Corsair logo completely right side up so maybe I would move the pump so the tubes are completely dead center at the bottom but w/o a bigger pic its hard to tell. I should probably take another look. But yeah that's about all the moving you might need to do. The less you play with your H50 the better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Alrighty, I just wasn't if the tubes should be closer to the rad or on the same level or anything like that







. The last playing around I do with it is gonna be tomorrow when I lap it


----------



## Famousoverdose

Hmm, I changed from a P/P Intake to a P/P Exhaust, no changes in temps. I really need to try some shrouds


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12964951*
> Alrighty, I just wasn't if the tubes should be closer to the rad or on the same level or anything like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The last playing around I do with it is gonna be tomorrow when I lap it


Yeah you might look into getting some 3 inch bolts(6-32) and some hex nuts in the same thread and use them as jamb nuts to lock in your Push fan with a shroud in between that and the radiator. Your tubes will be more relaxed that way as well.









Shrouds are easy when you have a matched set of fans(cfm rating)on the radiator. Just take the stock fan and cut out the blade section with 4 snips.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12964829*
> Do you suggest I move the H50 around so the tubes are bending a diff way? I saw some people who their H50s tubes seem more bent or on a diff side than mine is setup.


Can't really tell from the pic. But as long as there are no kinks and it seems to be working okay, cooling well and not making odd noises, I wouldn't worry about it.


----------



## Shneakypete

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wetfit9;12904103*
> HI everyone, first post here. I just picked up a H70 and got it installed last week. Idle temps are about the same, load temps was down 8c. I have a couple of questions if you guys don't mine. I am open for anything, so feel free. Right now I have a HAF X case with all the fans set for intake with the H70 mounted on the rear as exhaust.
> 1. Has anyone every tried the Noctua P14, the 140mm that fit 120mm holes with it.
> 2. Will lapping the base help any?
> 3. I read a lot where people recommend other kits, not ready for a full water loop yet, but open to the idea. Just unsure what would work best.
> 4. Right now I am only running a 4.0ghz over clock and i am at 40c idle which I don't like. I want to run a 4.2 daily overclock and push it higher to test and just see how far i can go.
> 5. I am a warm room, where sometimes the wife turns the fire place on and the computer only sets a few feet from it, so any suggestions I am open.
> 
> My thoughts is that I am going to have to do the full water loop thing, but I don't have $500 to pay for full set up at the moment. Any suggestions to get the best out of what I have or the a course of action that is not only good, but not to high in price. my system should be in my sig.


I had my h70 set to intake with my room kind of on the warm side... I saw my NB and load temps were 5c higher then when I run it as exhaust... Try switching the fans to exhaust while everything else is on intake...


----------



## stimr2

Corsair's tech support advised me to sumbit a RMA about my pump making a rattling noise.


----------



## superhead91

I've had my H50 for a while, but I don't think I've ever posted pics.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stimr2;12965764*
> Corsair's tech support advised me to sumbit a RMA about my pump making a rattling noise.


You have a pic of how it's set up? Maybe we can clear it up without the RMA process.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Dr216

Right so I dusted off my old h70 been sat in a half stripped rig for a month or so, and between now and then its gone from silent, to rattleing like crazy, I have treid all oreintations of rad and pump/block still rattles.

Certain its bubbles in the system as if you turn the entire thing face down then the noise is considerably reduced.

Not sure if this is a further symptom a cause or something else entirely unrealted but The pump will also not run from the cpu fan header anymore runs fine from any other header and any other fan pluged into the cpu header works fine ><

Am I sool and have to rma or is there something simple I can do to shift the bubbles?


----------



## stimr2

I think you should RMA it. Mine makes a rattling noise unless the pump is mounted a certain way which isn't normal. The way I have it mounted right now doesn't rattle but once I tilt the case it starts rattling again. I'm worried over time it'll start to rattle no matter what I do. Also it shouldn't matter which way the pump or the radiator is mounted. The pump should not be making a rattling noise. The rattling is louder than my 7 120mm fans. I've searched through this thread and Corsair's support forum. People have said to tap the pump/tubes, tilt the case around, and let the pump hang lower than the radiator.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12966090*
> You have a pic of how it's set up? Maybe we can clear it up without the RMA process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


My previous post had pictures and what I've done to try to remedy pump rattle. http://www.overclock.net/12954010-post17131.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah I'm not sure how you would correct it since it's an H70 and has a different pump than the H50.

If it were an H50, I would say keep the tubes at the bottom of the Rad and try to keep the pup with the tubes on its lowest portion. If there is still noise rap on the outlet tube with an unsharpened pencil, not too hard but enough to vibrate the tube. See it this will clear the buzzing. It works on the H50 but I'm not certain with the H70. Worth a shot though.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## calvinbui

with all these RMA and noise issues, is it recommended to get a H50/H70? I really want one of these units, or even the Antec 620 or H60 if they don't have any of these issues


----------



## alancsalt

For their numbers very few have problems. This is one of the places ppls come if they do though. If by chance you are one of the unlucky few, Corsair have been pretty good on the warranty.


----------



## jjsoviet

Pics pics pics!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Oooh now that I like. I saw one earlier in the thread where they had it mounted to the stock bracket with a two point adapter. I was pretty bummed by that idea since that was one of the reasons I wanted to go with an aftermarket cooler. I know I'll be going full h2o loop, but for the family systems I wanted to get them Hydro coolers. I think I'll look into the H60 now.

But is it me or is the area that the TIM resides indented? Don't think anybody is lapping that.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## jjsoviet

^ The plate is smooth, no indentions except for the screw holes. But I don't want to lap it just yet, because I'm not really confident of my skills. Been careless with my stuff.


----------



## werds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12970501*
> But is it me or is the area that the TIM resides indented? Don't think anybody is lapping that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Optical illusion - if you zoom in you see the raised edges of the TIM on the front sides. the backside that causes the indented look just seems to be TIM residue smeared.


----------



## jjsoviet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *werds;12970621*
> Optical illusion - if you zoom in you see the raised edges of the TIM on the front sides. the backside that causes the indented look just seems to be TIM residue smeared.


Yep, some of the TIM was touched by some stray microfiber rag that caused the ripples. See? I'm careless with my stuff.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jjsoviet*


Yep, some of the TIM was touched by some stray microfiber rag that caused the ripples. See? I'm careless with my stuff.










You can lapp that then. You just hafta take a deep breath before you do it. It's kinda late for it right now, but you can do it. I'm clumsy as hell an I did my H50 and my CPU.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## PhillyOverclocker

I am installing an H70 right now in the back of an Antec 902. If given the option, is it better to go with the radiator hoses up or down.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PhillyOverclocker*


I am installing an H70 right now in the back of an Antec 902. If given the option, is it better to go with the radiator hoses up or down.


I think that you should install them on the bottom. Air only travels one way in liquid.









~Ceadder


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PhillyOverclocker*


I am installing an H70 right now in the back of an Antec 902. If given the option, is it better to go with the radiator hoses up or down.


I've just installed and H70 on my brothers computer last night, and after reading that some come with air bubbles inside, I thought to be better if I install the radiator with the hoses down, so if there is any air inside it will stay at the top of the radiator and it wouldn't get sucked by the hoses, but thats just me.


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I think that you should install them on the bottom. Air only travels one way in liquid.









~Ceadder










LOL beat me to it


----------



## PhillyOverclocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I think that you should install them on the bottom. Air only travels one way in liquid.









~Ceadder










I thought they were sealed and had no air at all in them/


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PhillyOverclocker*


I thought they were sealed and had no air at all in them/










nothing is perfect, but it does perform very well.


----------



## PhillyOverclocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicolasl46*


nothing is perfect, but it does perform very well.


Awesome. Thanks for the help all. I really don't want this customer to call me in a couple weeks saying she can hear air bubbles in the loop. Now back to work. This is a fun build and probably the fastest I've ever built. 2600k, GTX570, 8GB Ripjaws, Corsair HX750, 256GB C300. She is gonna love it.


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PhillyOverclocker*


Awesome. Thanks for the help all. I really don't want this customer to call me in a couple weeks saying she can hear air bubbles in the loop. Now back to work. This is a fun build and probably the fastest I've ever built. 2600k, GTX570, 8GB Ripjaws, Corsair HX750, 256GB C300. She is gonna love it.


She? Thats what i need, a girl that loves computers and gaming LOL


----------



## Crabby654

Well what a dissapointing day so far. I managed to Lap my CPU and I am fairly confident I did a decent job, it was reflecting like a mirror with no nickel(?) plating on top. I tried to lap the H50 but it was only getting the edges for some reason so I decided to not do it.

So with the fan shroud added on and the CPU lapped, my CPU temp went up from 54c -> 59c, and my core temps went up from 54c -> 56.5c

Oi, maybe I should get a Rasa kit


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12973562*
> Well what a dissapointing day so far. I managed to Lap my CPU and I am fairly confident I did a decent job, it was reflecting like a mirror with no nickel(?) plating on top. I tried to lap the H50 but it was only getting the edges for some reason so I decided to not do it.
> 
> So with the fan shroud added on and the CPU lapped, my CPU temp went up from 54c -> 59c, and my core temps went up from 54c -> 56.5c
> 
> Oi, maybe I should get a Rasa kit


Did you check your CPU for flatness? And what TIM are you using?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Crabby654




----------



## Dr216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12973562*
> I tried to lap the H50 but it was only getting the edges for some reason so I decided to not do it.
> (


Erm mate I think you missed the point of lapping. The idea is to remove any bowing or unnevenness of the 2 surfaces, so the fact your only hitting the edge means the h50 is not flat. Thus you need to lap it untill it is flat, A good way to tell is to draw on it with drywipe marker and then rub it across the grit paper while its on a perfectly flat surface (glass is good) once there is no dry wipe left then you should have a flat surface.

Edit: sounds like you have the cpu done fine now get the h50 to the same point.

Check your Thermal paste too much or too little will cause problems, the h50 will not give you a massive boost temp wise from a high quality air cooler (nor these days will any water system unless you add in active cooling) air coolers these days are just so big and advanced that the advantage in liquid is more vollume than actual temps.

moving from my noctua to my full custom water loop I droped 2c which I barely anything.


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr216;12973852*
> Erm mate I think you missed the point of lapping. The idea is to remove any bowing or unnevenness of the 2 surfaces, so the fact your only hitting the edge means the h50 is not flat. Thus you need to lap it untill it is flat, A good way to tell is to draw on it with drywipe marker and then rub it across the grit paper while its on a perfectly flat surface (glass is good) once there is no dry wipe left then you should have a flat surface.
> 
> Check your Thermal past too much or too little will cause problems, the h50 will not give you a massive boost temp wise from a high quality air cooler (nor these days will any water system unless you add in active cooling) air coolers these days are just so big and advanced that the advantage in liquid is more vollume than actual temps.
> 
> moving from my noctua to my full custom water loop I droped 2c which I barely anything.


I was thinking I should have kept going with the H50 but I wasn't sure, it was really awkward to try to sand it because it wouldn't stay flat with the rad moving around and what not.

I reseated the H50 twice, the first time it was totally covering the CPU and this time I may put a bit excess on which I should clean up and reseat once again.

Maybe I should hit up the auto store near my house and get some more sand paper for the H50, i ran out using it on the CPU


----------



## Dr216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12973899*
> I was thinking I should have kept going with the H50 but I wasn't sure, it was really awkward to try to sand it because it wouldn't stay flat with the rad moving around and what not.


This is why I never bothered lapping my h70 when I used it proper PITA to do







also It was in a rig I wasnt thrashing very hard so ^^. Which Air cooler were you moving from? Like I said moving from say a dh14 to a h50 I would be suprised if you saw an improvement at all unless your case is warm.


----------



## Crabby654

I moved from a Hyper 212+ Push/Pull with 2 Blademasters. And when I went to the H50 I maybe only lost about 2c. But now I am not sure oi I feel like I totally effed up my cpu now that its running warmer







.

I might look at Rasa kits in a few weeks possibly, not sure yet. I'm not buying a new CPU till the bulldozer MAYBE.


----------



## Dr216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12973992*
> I moved from a Hyper 212+ Push/Pull with 2 Blademasters. And when I went to the H50 I maybe only lost about 2c. But now I am not sure oi I feel like I totally effed up my cpu now that its running warmer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I might look at Rasa kits in a few weeks possibly, not sure yet. I'm not buying a new CPU till the bulldozer MAYBE.


Im suprised your seeing a temperature increase, Is that your delta or just overall load temp? because with weather (at least where I am in the uk) going from rain, frost and fog to really rather unseasonaly sunny my overall temps have risen in line with rising ambient temps


----------



## Crabby654

Eer sorry those temps I said earlier were full load for 1 pass of LinX on max.


----------



## Dr216

Full load temps are meaningless when comparing coolers that have only a few c between them to compare you need to work out the difference between ambient/case temp and you cpu temp other wise known as the delta. Else you could be comparing them in a very unfair way.


----------



## Crabby654

Hmm alright. I am a tad confused with all the temps at the moment! My ambient is usually around 70F, not sure what that is in celcius. My case temp doesn't feel warm, the "System" temp in the bios is usually around 25-27c.


----------



## Dr216

see if you system temp was at 25c when you last checked you h50 and now it is at 27c you have instantly accounted for your 2c difference before and after, Hence why the delta is more usefull


----------



## Crabby654

Hmm I'm just concerned because its now running about 4c warmer while idle, I wonder if a shroud can be a bad thing while exhausting?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12975289*
> Hmm I'm just concerned because its now running about 4c warmer while idle, I wonder if a shroud can be a bad thing while exhausting?


You've got Burn In time to complete as well.

Just remember that you'll have to finish flattening the cooler to get the best temps available.

Did you add a shroud as well? Shrouds are excellent to use regardless of Intake or Exhaust.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Crabby654

Yea I ended up sanding and getting my shroud on there


----------



## Dr216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12975827*
> You've got Burn In time to complete as well.


Shouldnt do with mx-4 it has 0 cure time doesn't it or is that not what you mean by burn in time?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Famousoverdose;12956843*
> That is exactly why I love my H50.


My H70 doesn't make any noises, nor do most peoples.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr216;12976311*
> Shouldnt do with mx-4 it has 0 cure time doesn't it or is that not what you mean by burn in time?


0 cure time is less than 24 hours. My G751 has ~8hrs.

Also should note as I think you have that it may have either been too much or not enough TIM applied when mounting the H50. Also if crabby is sure that his application was not the issue, try it in different places in the 932. :mellow

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;12976429*
> 0 cure time is less than 24 hours. My G751 has ~8hrs.
> 
> Also should note as I think you have that it may have either been too much or not enough TIM applied when mounting the H50. Also if crabby is sure that his application was not the issue, try it in different places in the 932. :mellow
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Well so far, I have mounted my fan in the back exhaust port, as INTAKE. Intake has been giving me way better temps from the CPU and northbridge. 50c full load. And ya I did reseat my H50 with the proper amount of TIM, I am satisfied. Next weekend I might venture into lapping the H50.


----------



## Crabby654

I finally have a sweet clear picture of my computer with the H50 in it!

View attachment 203499


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12976568*
> Well so far, I have mounted my fan in the back exhaust port, as INTAKE. Intake has been giving me way better temps from the CPU and northbridge. 50c full load. And ya I did reseat my H50 with the proper amount of TIM, I am satisfied. Next weekend I might venture into lapping the H50.


Yay another rear intake user!


----------



## PhillyOverclocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin;12978424*
> Yay another rear intake user!


You are so sigged.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhillyOverclocker;12978768*
> You are so sigged.


Wow I did not even see it that way. Thank you for showing me the light. First time someone's sigged me as well. :3


----------



## grassh0ppa

This thread should be renamed the Asetek/Coolit cooling club to include all self contained units.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa;12978957*
> This thread should be renamed the Asetek/Coolit cooling club to include all self contained units.


Why? Why not the Hydro Club since that's the series of Cooler? And no I cannot take credit for this thought. Someone else came up with the name a page or so ago.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## alancsalt

To do anything like that someone would have to take on responsibility for maintaining the thread. That would probably require contacting the OP, killhouse, and getting a mod to change "ownership" of the original thread.


----------



## Ceadderman

I would consider it if I wasn't gearing up to take my plunge. I'm gonna be selling the H50 setup soon. I love it but my NB temps are making the change mandatory.









~Ceadder


----------



## Crabby654

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I would consider it if I wasn't gearing up to take my plunge. I'm gonna be selling the H50 setup soon. I love it but my NB temps are making the change mandatory.









~Ceadder










What kind of overclock and temps are you getting with your NB?

My OC is 2800Mhz @1.300v for my NB and 3.8Ghz @1.400v for my CPU, and my NB goes as high as 52c full load.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


What kind of overclock and temps are you getting with your NB?

My OC is 2800Mhz @1.300v for my NB and 3.8Ghz @1.400v for my CPU, and my NB goes as high as 52c full load.


Last attempt I got 4013Mhz  unfortunately something wasn't working with the Canard banner so I couldn't sig it. Also that wasn't a 24/7 stable Clock.









~Ceadder


----------



## Crabby654

Wow that is a pretty ridiculous NB OC, I want to get mine to 3000Mhz but the temps might be pushing it for me. My boards NB runs super hot.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


Wow that is a pretty ridiculous NB OC, I want to get mine to 3000Mhz but the temps might be pushing it for me. My boards NB runs super hot.


Yeah it is considering that's my CPU clock.









I didn't mess with NB at all. That clock was courtesy of Fusion. I love that Green monster.







*lolz*

~Ceadder


----------



## Crabby654

Oh ok derp me. I was confused for a minute







.

I'd love to watercool my Northbridge, but my boards NB and Mosfets use the same linked heatsink. So I'd have to remove the mosfets heatsink or buy a block for them and those can be pricey. I've heard horror stories of those blowing up for some people.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


Oh ok derp me. I was confused for a minute 







.

I'd love to watercool my Northbridge, but my boards NB and Mosfets use the same linked heatsink. So I'd have to remove the mosfets heatsink or buy a block for them and those can be pricey. I've heard horror stories of those blowing up for some people.


They make one that includes the Mosfet block for my board. Not sure about yours but I know you could get a Mosfet Heatsink to use with NB/SB blocks if you can find them.









~Ceadder


----------



## Crabby654

I might just wait to watercool the NB till the new bulldozer amd chips come out. Might have to buy a new mobo for those anyway.


----------



## scaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12982347*
> I might just wait to watercool the NB till the new bulldozer amd chips come out. Might have to buy a new mobo for those anyway.


Yea, I have alot of bills I have to pay off before I start buying water blocks for a motherboard. I do love to punish my PC.


----------



## stayinlow

I've joined the party, running nicely on my PhenomII running 3.7Ghz. 25 - idle, 41- load on a 4hour Prime run.

I've got 2x 38mm fans and 2x 38mm shrouds running intake in the drive bays. The fans are running off a controller to keep the noise down


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crabby654*


I might just wait to watercool the NB till the new bulldozer amd chips come out. Might have to buy a new mobo for those anyway.


What were your NB temps when you had the H50 in exhaust? I noticed after putting my H50 in p/p as a rear intake my mobo load temps went up 4C and my gpu load temps are up 8C. None of my temps are near the danger zone and my cpu temps were good as exhaust but I've been very lazy lately to put the H50 back to exhaust with my new yate loon high speed fans. I would rather bring my mobo and gpu temps back down and hopefully the yates running as exhaust will be close to what I get now with my R4's as intakes.


----------



## _REAPER_

Updated pics with sleeves done


----------



## [email protected]

Wow not such a safe place for your case to be on lol. What if that thing falls? Put it on a desk dude!

The Haf looks actually wider than i thought! Compared to Antec!


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];13004837*
> Wow not such a safe place for your case to be on lol. What if that thing falls? Put it on a desk dude!
> 
> The Haf looks actually wider than i thought! Compared to Antec!


That's actually a pretty sturdy shelf/rack there. It's like what they use in restaurants for storage.


----------



## Brice63

my rig with h70 keeping my 1090t nice and chilled










in dire need of a shiny 6970...


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crabby654;12982347*
> I might just wait to watercool the NB till the new bulldozer amd chips come out. Might have to buy a new mobo for those anyway.


I just put a spot fan on mine ... back then ....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;13005949*


Looks like somethin outta Mech Wars.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## alancsalt

The idea was that it wasn't getting pre heated air from anywhere, or directing heated air at anything.


----------



## Demented

My temps look pretty good for my H50's setup, right?










I think they're pretty good as long as they stay under 70c or so.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;13007046*
> The idea was that it wasn't getting pre heated air from anywhere, or directing heated air at anything.


lol I figured as much. It's similar to the Oil Coolers on Offroad machines but without the roof scoop due to no forward momentum to assist draw. Just sayin that it looks like somethin outta Mech Wars cause I grew up with that Anime in the early 80s'. If it weren't already done to death I mighta done something similar for the Sig Rig.







lulz

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Famousoverdose

Alright. I went over to Micro Center, which is an hour away from me to pick up my HAF X case. To my suprise they actually had a H70 in stock. They did not have one when I first went over to pick up my PC parts. So I picked it up since it was the last one there.

I am curious though. I am well aware that the difference from the H50 and the H70 is about 5-11C. Should I return my H50 and put this H70 in? I did google and read so many forums and reviews, but none from OCN were really solid and outdated. So I thought I would ask.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Famousoverdose;13016364*
> I am well aware that the difference from the H50 and the H70 is about 5-11C.


I'm curious where you got this info? Just about every review I've read comparing the 2 was only a 3-5C difference when running p/p on the H50. I guess stock vs stock the difference might be a lil greater due to the dual fans that come on the H70 vs the single fan on the H50.


----------



## Famousoverdose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t;13016495*
> I'm curious where you got this info? Just about every review I've read comparing the 2 was only a 3-5C difference.


Just about every single google page you get when googling "H50 or H70" basically.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Famousoverdose;13016566*
> Just about every single google page you get when googling "H50 or H70" basically.


I can't seem to find any that are 11C difference









4C difference

5C difference single fan only 2C difference with 2 fans on the H50

These are just some quicky ones I found without reading a ton lol. Actually the more I was reading the more people were saying it wasn't worth the money to upgrade from the H50 to the H70. Considering your already running your H50 in p/p I highly doubt you will see that huge of a difference when putting in the H70. 5C maybe realistic but 11C no way unless of course your H50 was very very uneven lol.


----------



## moonmanas

Can you take me from the club please I just got me an Antec H20 620, no regrets


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Famousoverdose;13016566*
> Just about every single google page you get when googling "H50 or H70" basically.


Even though the H70 is thicker than the H50 and the pump/heatsink is different the difference in temps seems mainly due to the push/pull fan set up as DJ4g63t says. Put two fans on a H50 and there isn't always a difference. I've read reviews that say so too, but not going searching for them now. Go ahead. Do a comparison and see how it goes.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];13004837*
> Wow not such a safe place for your case to be on lol. What if that thing falls? Put it on a desk dude!
> 
> The Haf looks actually wider than i thought! Compared to Antec!


----------



## [email protected]

Where did you get that desk? I like it. Dude is that tower stable on that rack? I swear to god it'd look like it'll fall or it's heavy and will bent the table of the cart rack lol.

Oh it'd look nicer if you buy some tie wraps or velcro straps and cover up those loose wires behind your desk and the rear tower. Clean it a bit and you got yourself a nice pimped out desk and set up lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;13007046*
> The idea was that it wasn't getting pre heated air from anywhere, or directing heated air at anything.


This.

I'm not sure where the 5 to 11c differential came from but maybe someone got paid for their review, and only tested NRotB with no changes? I dunno. Just offering up a small nugget of possibility.

Still I don't remember there being anything definitively stated in that regard.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


I can't seem to find any that are 11C difference









4C difference

5C difference single fan only 2C difference with 2 fans on the H50

These are just some quicky ones I found without reading a ton lol. Actually the more I was reading the more people were saying it wasn't worth the money to upgrade from the H50 to the H70. Considering your already running your H50 in p/p I highly doubt you will see that huge of a difference when putting in the H70. 5C maybe realistic but 11C no way unless of course your H50 was very very uneven lol.


The only way you'll get that kind of decrease is when you switch to a watercooling kit like the RASA 750 RX 360 (average decrease is 11-12 C from a fully pimped out H50).


----------



## WigglesTheHoly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


I just put a spot fan on mine ... back then ....











You should mod that to look like a Missile launcher


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WigglesTheHoly*


You should mod that to look like a Missile launcher


Thank You!























~Ceadder


----------



## cavallino

That's the most awesome rad mount I have ever seen.


----------



## Recluse

What temps should I expect from my H70 at 4 GHz with my i7 950? I know every chip is different and so on, I run rock stable at 1.225v.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WigglesTheHoly;13023510*
> You should mod that to look like a Missile launcher


What, no photoshopped image?









It doesn't look like that anymore though. It has a new laughable look. Radiator in each side, two loops. Still sorta Mechwarrior or Transformer...










Got to 4.83GHz like this....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cavallino;13023930*
> That's the most awesome rad mount I have ever seen.


I'll take that as a compliment.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ohhh man now it looks like one of those Robots from Black Hole. _*YESSSSS!*_ I loved that movie when I was a kid.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *moonmanas*


Can you take me from the club please I just got me an Antec H20 620, no regrets










Did you have the H50 or H70 and what difference did you see by switching to the Antec H20 620?


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


Did you have the H50 or H70 and what difference did you see by switching to the Antec H20 620?


I went from a custom watercooling setup with a 360 rad just for my cpu to an H70 the only difference I have is that I cannot run at 4.5ghz 24/7 I had to take it down to 4.2ghz. To be honest with you an H70 is ok for what you will be running plus do you really need to go faster than 4.0ghz.. the answer to that is no unless you benchmark alot.

This was my pc before I also got it to 4.8ghz


----------



## Ceadderman

Too bad the Bat mobile is obscured by shadow.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*


I went from a custom watercooling setup with a 360 rad just for my cpu to an H70 the only difference I have is that I cannot run at 4.5ghz 24/7 I had to take it down to 4.2ghz. To be honest with you an H70 is ok for what you will be running plus do you really need to go faster than 4.0ghz.. the answer to that is no unless you benchmark alot.


That's some nice info... but my question wasn't directed at you.







I'm just curious how the Antec H20 620 differs from the H50 as they are very similar.


----------



## Kokin

So I was trying to see how high the PhenomII 555 or B55 could go before shutting down, but the H50 is too good of a performer to allow me the pleasure of seeing a BoSD due to high temps (unlike my old 955 and Mugen2







). I got to about 68Â°C on the cores but I could not reach the max temp of 70Â°C. I was surprised LinX didn't even crash despite the load temps going from the mid 40s up to 70Â°C.

*Test Conditions:*
-B55 (4 cores working) @ 4ghz 1.46v BIOS, 1.44v load 
-CPU-NB @ 2.8ghz 1.35v
-NB voltage: 1.2v
-RAM @ 1600mhz 7-7-7-20-1T 1.94v (stock voltage is 1.95v)
-H50 running at full pump speed, rad fans turned off (all case fans on low)

Here's a screenie of what happened: (Excuse the Windows themed background







)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


That's some nice info... but my question wasn't directed at you.







I'm just curious how the Antec H20 620 differs from the H50 as they are very similar.


They should be similar since Acetek decided they needed to tick off Corsair by selling their adapted Rig to the competition.









They're using the low profile block of the H70 with the thinner Rad of the H50. I doubt there is much of a performance gain. Would love it if Antec would send me a review model so I could put it through its paces.

You sure that was the reason you had Errors? I opened CPU-Z and HW ID multiple times to check my information and to check the temps during the last Fold. No problems at all. Of course I am on v7.1.21 and didn't take the time to re-enlarge your screenshot. Not that I'm sayin you're wrong. I just didn't have the same issue... My bad it looked like you were pointing out errors.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dr.GumbyM.D.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


So I was trying to see how high the PhenomII 555 or B55 could go before shutting down, but the H50 is too good of a performer to allow me the pleasure of seeing a BoSD due to high temps (unlike my old 955 and Mugen2







). I got to about 68Â°C on the cores but I could not reach the max temp of 70Â°C. I was surprised LinX didn't even crash despite the load temps going from the mid 40s up to 70Â°C.

*Test Conditions:*
-B55 (4 cores working) @ 4ghz 1.46v BIOS, 1.44v load 
-CPU-NB @ 2.8ghz 1.35v
-NB voltage: 1.2v
-RAM @ 1600mhz 7-7-7-20-1T 1.94v (stock voltage is 1.95v)
-H50 running at full pump speed, rad fans turned off (all case fans on low)


I have to ask, because I don't know much about AMD CPUs anymore, but the max temp specified by AMD is 62C, so does the chip throttle down around 70, hence why it isn't getting hotter? I know with my i7 2600K on an H50, even with full fan speed and full pump speed, I can definitely add voltage and get the CPU to overheat (85-90c). That's with 2 58CFM fans on an H50.... I know the CPU will throttle around 100C, but its max temp is 98-100C anyway, so I wonder if AMD processors will throttle around 70c, leading you to believe that the cooler is good enough to keep it under 70c at all times? Let me know if you have any thoughts on that.

I've already started ordering items for a "real" watercooling build, so I'll be returning my H50 soon, but it was a great stepping stone since I haven't water cooled since my socket 478 days.


----------



## Dr216

I would assume that anyone looking to seriously overclock will have turned off throttling long ago.


----------



## Dr.GumbyM.D.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr216;13035029*
> I would assume that anyone looking to seriously overclock will have turned off throttling long ago.


I was under the impression that you can't turn off thermal throttling... Maybe with AMD it's possible, but I've never heard of it on Intel processors. IMO it's for the better, since there is no good reason to overheat a processor past it's TJMax anyway, unless you literally want to turn it into purely a space heater.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr.GumbyM.D.;13035187*
> I was under the impression that you can't turn off thermal throttling... Maybe with AMD it's possible, but I've never heard of it on Intel processors. IMO it's for the better, since there is no good reason to overheat a processor past it's TJMax anyway, unless you literally want to turn it into purely a space heater.


I agree. Even if I was overclocking an i7 with a full blown water cooling rig, I wouldn't turn off throttling even if I could. It's an excellent last resort safety measure.

However, if you don't care about the CPU because you're just doing testing for an article or something, and you want to overclock until failure, I could see under those circumstances someone wanting to shut down throttling if it was preventing the BSOD they were looking for.


----------



## Dr.GumbyM.D.

Just wanted to chime in and share my rig right before the new case teardown. The case was the only thing left from my old computer build (939 or 478, I forget which), however I've already replaced it with a HAF-X, and I'm soon going to be replacing the H50 with a full-custom watercooling setup.

The H50 as shown was 1 Gelid fan, but now is running push/pull with two Gelid FN-PX12-15 120mm PWM fans. They move a ton of air and I never hear the fan making noise, only the rush of air through the radiator. It keeps my 2600k @ 4.3ghz at 33c idle and 74c load. I just LOVE using PWM fans with the Asus Suite II fan profiler, so that I can run a profile that keeps it relatively silent until it gets very hot. When I go to watercooling, I'm working on a way to ghettorig Panaflos to work with PWM on a 3x120mm radiator.

Anyway, pictures:


----------



## Sifuthole

Would this also include H60 users?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sifuthole;13041939*
> Would this also include H60 users?


That would be affirmative.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mergatroid

Tiger Direct:

Corsair CWCH50-1
Hydro H50 CPU Liquid Cooler
$59.97
ENDS TODAY!


----------



## Ceadderman

Just submitted my Order for 2 Medium Speed Silents to replace my YL HS Silents, and one Low Speed Silent to dial back the dBs' in my system. Also in the order is a Sunbeam 3.5 Rheostat contoller so I can dial them up or let the MoBo control them depending on what I'm doing.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## BaByBlue69

Hello,
An installation completely new








But she has to be to modify still.
To place the ventilator and the radiator in the exterieur









Fans and radiator takes the place of the fan of modulate VRM (Southbridge)

















The diférence of temp. with MB (73 ° C / 164 ° F ou +) and CPU (55 ° C / 133 ° F ou -) In the games, WoW



PS: Soon the video card and the VRM module will be cooled water


----------



## JackBauer24

Finally put my system together after procrastinating over the last 2 weeks. The fans are loud compared to my old system, but I'd rather have that than trying to mount the Noctua that I also bought.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaByBlue69;13061626*
> Hello,
> An installation completely new
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But she has to be to modify still.
> To place the ventilator and the radiator in the exterieur
> *snip*
> 
> Fans and radiator takes the place of the fan of modulate VRM (Southbridge)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*
> 
> The diférence of temp. with MB (73 ° C / 164 ° F ou +) and CPU (55 ° C / 133 ° F ou -) In the games, WoW
> 
> *snip*
> 
> PS: Soon the graphics card and the VRM module will be cooled water


Have you tried to mount your Radiator and Fan setup in the top of your 932 next to the 200mm fan?

Like my H50 is?

Photo below...

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Famousoverdose

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Have you tried to mount your Radiator and Fan setup in the top of your 932 next to the 200mm fan?

Like my H50 is?

Photo below...

~Ceadder










Wow..I did not realize how big the damn radiator on the H70 is!!! I have one sitting on my table waiting to be installed...but jesus, that thing is huge. I am putting shrouds on mine, and that would make it stick out even more!









Is that ideal? What are your temps?

I am getting my Syckle Fans today for my P/P, so I will be able to put in some shrouds. Are 1 or 2 shrouds ideal for those who have tested this set up themselves? I see some using 2, some using 1.


----------



## Kentan900

My Corsair H70 is giving me very high temps. I did a light overclock on my AMD Phenom II x6 1055T to about 3.51 GHz and my temps was all the way up to 56C.

I reinstalled it three times, used aftermarket cooling, aftermarket thermal paste. And it still doesnt get cooler. Even my Cooler Master Hyper 212+ did a better job for me.

I tried many diffrent guides and it just wont work for me.

Any clues?

Many Regards

Kentan900


----------



## nerdybeat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kentan900*


My Corsair H70 is giving me very high temps. I did a light overclock on my AMD Phenom II x6 1055T to about 3.51 GHz and my temps was all the way up to 56C.

I reinstalled it three times, used aftermarket cooling, aftermarket thermal paste. And it still doesnt get cooler. Even my Cooler Master Hyper 212+ did a better job for me.

I tried many diffrent guides and it just wont work for me.

Any clues?

Many Regards

Kentan900


Is the 56C on load or idle?
Have you verified the pump is running full speed? (using speedfan, it usually registers ~1400rpm)
Are you using stock fans?
What is the vcore on the OC?
Did you mount the fans correctly? (aka both pushing/pulling air in the same direction)

Answering these questions should help us help you a bit more. I am not very familiar with AMD temps and OC's, but I am sure many in this thread are. Hopefully it starts working out for you!!


----------



## BaByBlue69

.......

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Have you tried to mount your Radiator and Fan setup in the top of your 932 next to the 200mm fan?

Like my H50 is?

Photo below...

~Ceadder




























I doubt that tubes are of the good length (Ram AirFlow) and tube H50 is longer

PS: Moreover, I do not want that the warm air goes into the case

Thank you all the same for the idea


----------



## Centerline

Here's mine... .. .


----------



## Kentan900

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nerdybeat*


Is the 56C on load or idle?
Have you verified the pump is running full speed? (using speedfan, it usually registers ~1400rpm)
Are you using stock fans?
What is the vcore on the OC?
Did you mount the fans correctly? (aka both pushing/pulling air in the same direction)

Answering these questions should help us help you a bit more. I am not very familiar with AMD temps and OC's, but I am sure many in this thread are. Hopefully it starts working out for you!!


Under load it was 56C. My Cooler Master Hyper 212+ never was higher than 49C.

Right now at idle its about 36C and my room is not to warm.

The pump is running at 1448 RPM and the two fans Im using is intaking air at the same direction.

The Vcore was about 1.38V.

Ask me anything mate!









Many Regards

Kentan900


----------



## Kentan900

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Centerline*


Here's mine... .. .











Looking good!









Many Regards

Kentan900


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kentan900*


Under load it was 56C. My Cooler Master Hyper 212+ never was higher than 49C.

Right now at idle its about 36C and my room is not to warm.

The pump is running at 1448 RPM and the two fans Im using is intaking air at the same direction.

The Vcore was about 1.38V.

Ask me anything mate!









Many Regards

Kentan900


There's something wrong with this picture, but the only thing I can see that is possibly wrong is that there was user error on the installation or there is either too much or too little TIM. Did you make sure that the waterblock/pump does not move at all? The first time I installed my H50, it wasn't screwed on tight enough so my temps were way higher than my Mugen2.

For example: my quad core PhenomII is at 1.46v and 4ghz and it only loads up to 45Â°C with LinX/IBT and around 38-40Â°C during gaming. This is with my push/pull fans at 1000RPM instead of the max 2200RPM as well.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BaByBlue69*



















































.......


















I doubt that tubes are of the good length (Ram AirFlow) and tube H50 is longer

PS: Moreover, I do not want that the warm air goes into the case

Thank you all the same for the idea










mine is set to Exhaust not Intake.









Not sure about your tubes though since I haven't seen one of those up close and personal like.









And to answer questions posed before this one. I only have one shroud. Though I could add another later. Won't know if I will though because it would mean more bolts and losing another drive bay making me have to drop my ODD one more bay. As it is I don't know if I can mount my new Rheobus 3.5 in the top slot because it needs an adapter to fit it there in my 3.5 grill.

If you're having temp issues with your Hydro series try not spreading the TIM prior to seating. Apply a pea sized portion(taking care not to leave a "tail" when you finish) and mount your pump to the CPU giving it a gentle twist and lock it down with the retaining screws in a crisscross( X ) pattern tightening it up a little at a time so that the pressure is evenly distributed. Think of it like you're changing a tire and if you try clockwise or counter clockwise tightening of the lugs your wheel is likely to separate from the hub.

AS5 also has a 200hr curing time. I use Shin Etsu G751 which is what is used on all the Hydro Series systems. I have an email out to a Bay Area company that supplies 1 gram tubes(not the .5 gram everyone else supplies) because they're out of stock. Hopefully they'll have more soon so I can get a bulk shipment from them.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kentan900

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


There's something wrong with this picture, but the only thing I can see that is possibly wrong is that there was user error on the installation or there is either too much or too little TIM. Did you make sure that the waterblock/pump does not move at all? The first time I installed my H50, it wasn't screwed on tight enough so my temps were way higher than my Mugen2.

For example: my quad core PhenomII is at 1.46v and 4ghz and it only loads up to 45Â°C with LinX/IBT and around 38-40Â°C during gaming. This is with my push/pull fans at 1000RPM instead of the max 2200RPM as well.


I reinstalled it three times. The first time I did it wrong and I noticed that once I got my PC up and running. The second time I removed everything and cleaned everything up and put a new layer with thermal paste on. It didnt get any better so did the second step again and put aftermarket cooling on to see if it solved the issue. Wich it didnt.

Yes I really made sure it didnt move.

Many Regards

Kentan900


----------



## superhead91

Does having a shroud on the exhaust side do anything?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


Does having a shroud on the exhaust side do anything?


Not sure that it does. But I'd heard people say that it does. I think it depends on other factors too but I'm not sure exactly what other than the grill not allowing enough flow to vent appropriately.









~Ceadder


----------



## BaByBlue69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kentan900*


Looking good!:Cool:

Many Regards

Kentan900


























I do not agree....
1. The supply generates of the warm air which goes directly to the warm air of the graphics board. (The supply cannot be to return downward)
2. There is more place for [FAN][RADIATOR][FAN]
In the floor of the top (so that the ventilator of the top sucks up the warm air)

Houra for HAF932


----------



## Fuell

I just threw an H50 with push-pull out the back of my Solano 1000 a few days ago. Works great.


----------



## BaByBlue69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kentan900*


Looking good!









Many Regards

Kentan900


I do not agree....
1. The supply generates of the warm air which goes directly to the warm air of the graphics card. (The supply cannot be to return downward)
2. He(it) does not belong to the good place [FAN][RADIATOR][FAN]
Go to the floor of the top (so that the ventilator in the summit sucks up the warm air)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BaByBlue69*
































I do not agree....
1. The supply generates of the warm air which goes directly to the warm air of the graphics card. (The supply cannot be to return downward)
2. He(it) does not belong to the good place [FAN][RADIATOR][FAN]
Go to the floor of the top (so that the ventilator in the summit sucks up the warm air)


Non non. Intake at rear you still Intake warm air. Intake at top you still intake warm air(200 es Exhaust) hoses aren't long enough to Intake from Anterior or the floor of the 932. Exhaust up and have 1 fan in the floor pulling cool air up to your P/P system. It will lessen the warm air and allow your cooler to work properly.

I've been Folding for most of 2 days and a partial 3rd and my temp is averaging 40c for 24/7 in this configuration.









~Ceadder


----------



## Xristo

So the weather has cooled down in sydney , h50 been going strong for months .. The as5 has been left to cure for months , currently idles at 30c on my i7 @ 4.3ghz .. core 2-3 sitting at 28c , lapping the cpu helped out heaps .

Load , i never see over 60c during daily use .

i Am now wondering , what kind of temps id have if i still had my 3krpm fan in push , it was too loud and i got sick of it ... i went back to the quiestest fan i could find and temps are still more than resonable . I see people with custom loops struggling to get these temps .. I <3 the h50 all it needs is a quick sand down to get the block smooth , some as5 and if you lap your cpu the temps will be even better .. i took the risk and voided the warrenty on my 3 month old i7 , i dont regret doing so .. all worked out great and been running cool for months =) just thought id check in and update .


----------



## Ceadderman

lol That's why I ordered my Yate Loon Medium Speed Silents for my P/P and a LS Silent for the bottom of my 932.









I love my fans right now but some days I just want to rip the suckers out and throw them into the street. high Speed Silents can make a heck of a racket when your system is set @ 70% in Duty Mode.









~Ceadder


----------



## BaByBlue69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Non non. Intake at rear you still Intake warm air. Intake at top you still intake warm air(200 es Exhaust) hoses aren't long enough to Intake from Anterior or the floor of the 932. Exhaust up and have 1 fan in the floor pulling cool air up to your P/P system. It will lessen the warm air and allow your cooler to work properly.

I've been Folding for most of 2 days and a partial 3rd and my temp is averaging 40c for 24/7 in this configuration.









~Ceadder










lol, I speak to Kentan900, of the PC of Centerline (Case:Antec 1200)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BaByBlue69*


lol, I speak to Kentan900, of the PC of Centerline (Case:Antec 1200)


Okay, I'm officially lost can we stop and get directions or should I continue to drive around in circles like I know where I'm going?









~Ceadder


----------



## Famousoverdose

For those of you that are using the stock Corsair fan and a fan you had laying around for P/P on your 50, I highly suggest you swap out your fans for some aftermarket ones. I just dropped my idle temps down!

I use to idle around 38-40, now I am idling from 30-35! I am going to put them under load either today or tomorrow.

I went with some CM Syckle Flow fans, and they so far, are doing beyond my expectations!

Here is a link from Newegg about them. Although I ordered Blue ones off the official CM store. So same thing, just different color LEDs.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103091


----------



## nabokovfan87

Here is what I have:



















Added my fans to the list, as well as my setup info. Revisions to the pics would be some softer Green LED strips, and a fan controller in the front. Dremel soon to mod the door.


----------



## nabokovfan87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Famousoverdose;13066936*
> For those of you that are using the stock Corsair fan and a fan you had laying around for P/P on your 50, I highly suggest you swap out your fans for some aftermarket ones. I just dropped my idle temps down!
> 
> I use to idle around 38-40, now I am idling from 30-35! I am going to put them under load either today or tomorrow.
> 
> I went with some CM Syckle Flow fans, and they so far, are doing beyond my expectations!
> 
> Here is a link from Newegg about them. Although I ordered Blue ones off the official CM store. So same thing, just different color LEDs.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103091


I would go for the other R4's, These: R4-L2R-20CG-GP

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103062

2000 RPM, 90 CFM, 19 dBa

Got mine from amazon, grab some spares if you want extra, they will be hard to find from now on. Use CM's website to find the PNs for other colors.


----------



## Riott77

Add me to the list, please.

Just picked up a H50 today for $56 at Best Buy. Installed in a push-pull config exausting out the rear vent on my Phantom case, just using the stock case fan and the stock h50 fan for now. Have been waiting to pick up a cooler before overclocking my rig, but now that i have it installed i've got a question. Using RealTemp 3.60 to check my core temp, the core's are sitting between 29 and 35 deg. C. at idle. Running Prime95 for almost an hour my max temps were all 65 deg.

Just wondering if those temps seem like a decent baseline for my setup at stock. Any feedback would be awesome.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Famousoverdose*


For those of you that are using the stock Corsair fan and a fan you had laying around for P/P on your 50, I highly suggest you swap out your fans for some aftermarket ones. I just dropped my idle temps down!

I use to idle around 38-40, now I am idling from 30-35! I am going to put them under load either today or tomorrow.

I went with some CM Syckle Flow fans, and they so far, are doing beyond my expectations!

Here is a link from Newegg about them. Although I ordered Blue ones off the official CM store. So same thing, just different color LEDs.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103091


I would get Yate Loon Mediums which are a better grade than the stock Yate Loon that comes with the system. You can get them from Koolertek, Performance-pcs, Sidewinder... pretty much anybody for ~$4 each so you won't be out a lot of money should you decide that the Hydro series isn't your cup o team.









However if people would take the time to run through the thread some(at least the last 10 to 15 pages) it's been said time and again to go with a pair of fans over the stock fan from the H50. But it's always good to keep it fresh in the thread.









~Ceadder


----------



## Famousoverdose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13070187*
> I would get Yate Loon Mediums which are a better grade than the stock Yate Loon that comes with the system. You can get them from Koolertek, Performance-pcs, Sidewinder... pretty much anybody for ~$4 each so you won't be out a lot of money should you decide that the Hydro series isn't your cup o team.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> However if people would take the time to run through the thread some(at least the last 10 to 15 pages) it's been said time and again to go with a pair of fans over the stock fan from the H50. But it's always good to keep it fresh in the thread*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I already knew that. But ofc I had to wait for the fans to actually get here









But this thread is HUGE, so its good to keep info flowing through out


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nabokovfan87*


Here is what I have:

**snip**

Added my fans to the list, as well as my setup info. Revisions to the pics would be some softer Green LED strips, and a fan controller in the front. Dremel soon to mod the door.


Hey man go to the black header bar at the top of the page, click on "User CP" and then enter your system stats in the appropriate side bar link..."New System"... it's above "Edit System". This way if you ever have any issues we can better assist you. Thanks.









~Ceadder


----------



## JackBauer24

So is the noise that I'm getting from the fans or the pump? My PC sounds like a small vacuum now. I have a NH-14 that I am keeping in case I have issues with the H70. If the fans are the problem, would replacing the Corsair fans with the ones that come with the Noctua make a difference or do I have to go with something like Gentle Typhoons?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JackBauer24*


So is the noise that I'm getting from the fans or the pump? My PC sounds like a small vacuum now. I have a NH-14 that I am keeping in case I have issues with the H70. If the fans are the problem, would replacing the Corsair fans with the ones that come with the Noctua make a difference or do I have to go with something like Gentle Typhoons?


Without hearing it personally it's difficult to pinpoint. You don't have to have GTs' in fact you can go with a cheaper option in Yate Loons. You can get them most anywhere for less than $5 apiece before shipping. Depending on the place you can get them in bulk prices as little as $2.50 each depending on how many you get.

I think the noise is related to how your pump is mounted though. If your tubes are on top you might try rotating them clockwise a bit to see if that minimizes the noise. Also depending on how your Rad is mounted you might mount it so the tubes inlet and outlet at the bottom of the Rad instead of the top. If these two things get it down but it's still noisy try rapping on the tubes with a light no.2 pencil something that will vibrate the lines and possibly knock loose any air trapped in the pump.









~Ceadder


----------



## Deano12345

Getting a H50 for a very good price soon, so I figured its time to get rid of the IFX-14 (or the ''cheese grater'' as its been nicknamed by a friend).

Not sure what to do yet, I'm thinking 2 P14's with 2 shrouds, or 2 of the Nexus 120's I have here (they are Yates) with the shrouds too. Had a look through the thread on shrouds quickly and cant figure if 2 shrouds are better than 1, its probably looking at me though.

Anyway, I cant wait to get a decent temp. drop and clean up the inside of my case a little bit too !


----------



## JackBauer24

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Without hearing it personally it's difficult to pinpoint. You don't have to have GTs' in fact you can go with a cheaper option in Yate Loons. You can get them most anywhere for less than $5 apiece before shipping. Depending on the place you can get them in bulk prices as little as $2.50 each depending on how many you get.

I think the noise is related to how your pump is mounted though. If your tubes are on top you might try rotating them clockwise a bit to see if that minimizes the noise. Also depending on how your Rad is mounted you might mount it so the tubes inlet and outlet at the bottom of the Rad instead of the top. If these two things get it down but it's still noisy try rapping on the tubes with a light no.2 pencil something that will vibrate the lines and possibly knock loose any air trapped in the pump.









~Ceadder










My tubes are coming out of the rad from the bottom.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JackBauer24*


My tubes are coming out of the rad from the bottom.


Okay, where are they in relation to a clock on your CPU? 9, Noon, 3, 6? I believe that someone approximately 3 pages back (+/-) related that his pump made noise when the tubes were nearer to Noon. But when he rotated his pump down toward the 6 o'clock position the noise went away. You might try the same thing based on where your pump is lined up.









~Ceadder


----------



## JackBauer24

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Okay, where are they in relation to a clock on your CPU? 9, Noon, 3, 6? I believe that someone approximately 3 pages back (+/-) related that his pump made noise when the tubes were nearer to Noon. But when he rotated his pump down toward the 6 o'clock position the noise went away. You might try the same thing based on where your pump is lined up.









~Ceadder










I'm not near my PC, but can the cold plate and or piping take that much torque? When I screwed the radiator length wise on the rear of the case with the tubing at the bottom, there was pretty much only one way that the cold plate tubing would face without twisting the majority of the tubing.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JackBauer24*


I'm not near my PC, but can the cold plate and or piping take that much torque? When I screwed the radiator length wise on the rear of the case with the tubing at the bottom, there was pretty much only one way that the cold plate tubing would face without twisting the majority of the tubing.


Where is it at on the clock? If you can't turn it without putting a lot of torque on the tubes(should be able to take a reasonable amount) then the thing to to is dismount the Rad long enough to rotate the pump without separating the two surfaces(otherwise you have to replace the TIM) lock it down and then remount your Rad in the down position in the direction the pump and hoses will allow. If they won't allow that then it's time for a reseat. That's the only way around it as far as I'm aware of. I guess you could try going counter clockwise toward 9 o'clock though and see how that fares.









~Ceadder


----------



## JackBauer24

The tubing off the cold plate is at about 3 o'clock. I ordered some ArtiClean which should be here by Tuesday, so I can't readjust it. What exactly does the pump sound like? The noise that's a bit louder than my old setup is like a dull hum.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackBauer24;13076992*
> The tubing off the cold plate is at about 3 o'clock. I ordered some ArtiClean which should be here by Tuesday, so I can't readjust it. What exactly does the pump sound like? The noise that's a bit louder than my old setup is like a dull hum.


Why are you wasting your money on Articlean? Just get some 90% Isopropyl and some blue towels. Make sure to get any residue off with the blue towel once you have the old TIM off the Pump and the CPU. Then wipe it down again and give it about a minute or so to dry. You just saved yourself 8 bucks.

Ah well you've got it coming now so...









My system doesn't make so much as a peep. So I couldn't say how yours is supposed to sound considering I have the H50. I just know what has been written here about the issue and how if the lines are facing up that it makes a sound. Something like a hum I guess if you held my feet to the fire. But I don't know cause I wasn't there only relaying the information. I know that the pencil trick works to clear up similar issues with the H50 though so it's worth a shot.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## phazer11

Anyone know anything about the H60? I had a bad experience with the H50 but was wondering if the H60 was any improvement?


----------



## JackBauer24

Based on the instructions in the manual, this is how my fans are positioned, is this correct?

Left fan-->-RAD-<--Right fan

This doesn't seem right to me. On one hand I'm bringing in cool air which is hitting the radiator, but on the other, I am taking hot air that is in the case and blowing it at the radiator from the other side.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackBauer24;13078366*
> Based on the instructions in the manual, this is how my fans are positioned, is this correct?
> 
> Left fan-->-RAD-<--Right fan
> 
> This doesn't seem right to me. On one hand I'm bringing in cool air which is hitting the radiator, but on the other, I am taking hot air that is in the case and blowing it at the radiator from the other side.


For intake you would flip the right fan. For exhaust you would flip the left.


----------



## JackBauer24

So you're saying that the setup should look like this? I also have two fans on the top of my case pulling air out.

^_____________________^

Left fan<---RAD--->Right fan

My archaic design as to which way the arrows on the fans are pointing.


----------



## alancsalt

Looking into an open case:
Arrows = airflow direction

Left fan<---RAD---

Left fan>---RAD--->Right fan = intake


----------



## JackBauer24

Thank you, now I'm understanding.


----------



## httuner

Since my recent purchase of one of these h70 cooling units, I have to say I am greatly impress with it_ its cooling power is just simply amazing =]

At 1.437volts in Bios(1.46volts CPU-Z) @ 4.2ghz on AMD 955x4 CPU my temperature never surpasses 50C during stress testing, its solid as a rock_ I am actually considering on purchasing another H70 for my i72600k. I've have had different kind of air coolers throughout the years, but nothing seems to beat the Corsair H70 when it comes to sustaining a great temperature for long periods of time.


----------



## slowman87

Yeah I really love the H70. It keeps my temps nice and frosty over long periods of 100% use. Definitely a GREAT and easy CPU cooler! Looks great too!


----------



## CalypsoRaz

any H60 owners yet?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CalypsoRaz*


any H60 owners yet?


We have 2 or three within the last 10 pages.









~Ceadder


----------



## JackBauer24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slowman87;13080497*
> Yeah I really love the H70. It keeps my temps nice and frosty over long periods of 100% use. Definitely a GREAT and easy CPU cooler! Looks great too!


What are your temps for idle and 100% load? I haven't pushed mine yet, but I'm about 35c without the resistors on the fans and 42 with them on.

My system is much quieter since adding the resistors, but not sure if I like my system to be that hot just going on ESPN.com.


----------



## BaByBlue69

2 montagte possible
(ctrl)[fan]->-[RAD]->-[fan]
[liquid]------------------>-tube

[fan]-<-[RAD]-<-[fan](Ctrl)
[liquid]-------------->-tube


----------



## Liranan

I have finally received my RMA'd H70 and I am very, very disappointed in its performance. With an ambient temperature of 26C, VCore at 1.4, CPU at 1.6, NB at 2.2 I am maxing out at 60C. That is ridiculous for the price an H70 costs.

Soon I am either going to have to get a good cooler (air) or build my own water cooling set. Because right now my old TRUE 120 Copper is far better than this H70 (price/performance). Alternative is to mod this thing, in the hope it'll perform better, but as I have another two PC's I could put this in I don't know whether risking a mod is worth it. I'm saying risk it because i'm pretty bad at modding.

I now regret wasting so much money and time on this thing.


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


We have 2 or three within the last 10 pages.









~Ceadder










Must've missed them, checkin on a mobile browser sucks ^_^

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Sifuthole

updated my system list. still trying to hit 5Ghz on the sandy bridge with teh H60. I have purchased and applied artic silver 5 on the heatsink and cpu. Now in process for that crazy 200 hour break in period.

Kind of disappointed with this long break in period because currently the cpu temp is 5-6 degrees higher than the H60 stock paste. Hoping that the after this break in period, i'll be able to hit that 5Ghz.


----------



## EpicPie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sifuthole*


updated my system list. still trying to hit 5Ghz on the sandy bridge with teh H60. I have purchased and applied artic silver 5 on the heatsink and cpu. Now in process for that crazy 200 hour break in period.

Kind of disappointed with this long break in period because currently the cpu temp is 5-6 degrees higher than the H60 stock paste. Hoping that the after this break in period, i'll be able to hit that 5Ghz.


you shouldn't have changed the thermal paste from stock. The stock thermal paste on the H50, H60, and H70 is Shin Etsu which is one of the best thermal pastes on the market.


----------



## Ceadderman

Artic Silver 5 is just as good as G751 in every category except Curing time.

AS5 has a 200hour burn in time.

G751 is ~8hours.

Nothing wrong with AS5 so long as people keep that in mind and understand they won't be about to do any massive OC'ing while within the burn in time. Once the burn in is completed you shouldn't see a difference in temps compared to the G751. 200 hours however is approximately 9 days of following the manufactures guideline to get the TIM to cure.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Primus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liranan;13082664*
> I have finally received my RMA'd H70 and I am very, very disappointed in its performance. With an ambient temperature of 26C, VCore at 1.4, CPU at 1.6, NB at 2.2 I am maxing out at 60C. That is ridiculous for the price an H70 costs.
> 
> Soon I am either going to have to get a good cooler (air) or build my own water cooling set. Because right now my old TRUE 120 Copper is far better than this H70 (price/performance). Alternative is to mod this thing, in the hope it'll perform better, but as I have another two PC's I could put this in I don't know whether risking a mod is worth it. I'm saying risk it because i'm pretty bad at modding.
> 
> I now regret wasting so much money and time on this thing.


I think you need a re-seat. I'm running 4GHz at 1.5 Vcore and it tops out at 59C. I'm also only using an H50.


----------



## vdn20

Can someone tell me recommend me what fans I should get for my H50? I was planning to do the push/pull setup, although I'm not exactly how to set it up yet, but I'll need to get some fans for it. For the push/pull setup, I'm assuming that both fans should blow in the same direction, but should I set it up so it blows air into or out of the case? I'm sorry about asking since it must have been answered before, but there are too many pages. Thanks


----------



## alancsalt

It is the most frequently asked question, and still gets debated. Whatever works for you and your particular setup. All the same direction, yes.
Which fans? Again, down to preference. What's important to you? Color, quietnes or performance?


----------



## Ceadderman

no problem bruh.

Push Pull same direction.

I suggest Yat Loon Medium Speed Silents. I have High Speed Silents but sometimes they can get on the nerves when they're blasting at 70% Duty Power. So I purchased Medium Speeds and will be putting the High Speeds on the shelf for emergency use.

You can get the Mediums for $4 each at performance-pcs.com if you live in the States. Not sure where you would find them outside of the US though except NCIX.com in Canada.

I set mine to Exhaust in the top of my 932 but I suggest if you do that to your system that you place a fan in the bottom of your cabinet to assist taking cooler air into the system and to keep positive airflow.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vdn20;13088980*
> Can someone tell me recommend me what fans I should get for my H50? I was planning to do the push/pull setup, although I'm not exactly how to set it up yet, but I'll need to get some fans for it. For the push/pull setup, I'm assuming that both fans should blow in the same direction, but should I set it up so it blows air into or out of the case? I'm sorry about asking since it must have been answered before, but there are too many pages. Thanks


I'm gonna try the Kama Flow 2's on my Antec H20 620. They seem like quieter S-Flex's with more static pressure...Probably better than the beloved GT Typhoons, but they aren't tried and true. But they are only $11 bucks!

NCIX sells the worst quality yate loons. I wouldn't get yates from them. There was a thread comparing yates from all different stores.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah Papa Smurf posted it a page or so back.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vdn20;13088980*
> Can someone tell me recommend me what fans I should get for my H50? I was planning to do the push/pull setup, although I'm not exactly how to set it up yet, but I'll need to get some fans for it. For the push/pull setup, I'm assuming that both fans should blow in the same direction, but should I set it up so it blows air into or out of the case? I'm sorry about asking since it must have been answered before, but there are too many pages. Thanks


I'm very happy with my Akasa Vipers. Good SP and CFM, and low noise.

Whether you have it set up for intake or exhaust will depend on your case. If you have a good positive-pressure air intake, and will be feeding enough outside air into the H50 rad, then exhaust is probably your best bet. If not, then using it as intake will ensure plenty of cooler air through the rad, and will make for better CPU cooling; but it will raise the temps inside the case, so you may end up with less effective cooling for your GPU and Mosfets.

I have mine set up as exhaust, because I have a lot of air going into the case, and a large side fan blowing outside air directly at the rad intake fan.


----------



## Liranan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EpicPie*


you shouldn't have changed the thermal paste from stock. The stock thermal paste on the H50, H60, and H70 is Shin Etsu which is one of the best thermal pastes on the market.


Three reseats later and the cores are at 62C after 4 minutes of Prime. I am going to swap my CPU for the other 955 I have. This one is lapped, the other isn't.

CPU is at 51, cores are at 61. On the 790GP UD4H the cores are higher than the CPU, so, I don't know which reading to trust. I am very much inclined to believe the cores over the CPU, as the PC sometimes BSOD's when the cores go over 60.

Idle: CPU 42 Cores 49

I don't run Prime very often, as it unreasonably stresses the CPU and benchmarks no longer matter to me (I was past that several years ago). I run Boinc, which only stresses the CPU to 98%. Despite this my cores still reach 60C, with the CPU sitting at 49.


----------



## vdn20

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


It is the most frequently asked question, and still gets debated. Whatever works for you and your particular setup. All the same direction, yes.
Which fans? Again, down to preference. What's important to you? Color, quietnes or performance?


I don't particularly care about color, but I would prefer quiet ones.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


no problem bruh.

Push Pull same direction.

I suggest Yat Loon Medium Speed Silents. I have High Speed Silents but sometimes they can get on the nerves when they're blasting at 70% Duty Power. So I purchased Medium Speeds and will be putting the High Speeds on the shelf for emergency use.

You can get the Mediums for $4 each at performance-pcs.com if you live in the States. Not sure where you would find them outside of the US though except NCIX.com in Canada.

I set mine to Exhaust in the top of my 932 but I suggest if you do that to your system that you place a fan in the bottom of your cabinet to assist taking cooler air into the system and to keep positive airflow.









~Ceadder










Thanks, I think I will get a set of Yate Loon Medium Speed Silents. Probably will take out the Corsair fan and put it at the bottom of my case.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *luchog*


I'm very happy with my Akasa Vipers. Good SP and CFM, and low noise.

Whether you have it set up for intake or exhaust will depend on your case. If you have a good positive-pressure air intake, and will be feeding enough outside air into the H50 rad, then exhaust is probably your best bet. If not, then using it as intake will ensure plenty of cooler air through the rad, and will make for better CPU cooling; but it will raise the temps inside the case, so you may end up with less effective cooling for your GPU and Mosfets.

I have mine set up as exhaust, because I have a lot of air going into the case, and a large side fan blowing outside air directly at the rad intake fan.


Good to know.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa*


I'm gonna try the Kama Flow 2's on my Antec H20 620. They seem like quieter S-Flex's with more static pressure...Probably better than the beloved GT Typhoons, but they aren't tried and true. But they are only $11 bucks!

NCIX sells the worst quality yate loons. I wouldn't get yates from them. There was a thread comparing yates from all different stores.


I'm curious about the thread that compares yates from different stores, do you happen to have link for me? I couldn't find it.

On a side note, I have another question about temperatures. Right now I have a Cooler Master 690 II Advanced case, intake fan on the front, another fan on the hard drive bay blowing in, exhaust on the rear from the H50 (just 1 fan for now), and an exhaust on the top. The last time I did an Orthos test on it, the load temps were 47 and 50, and right now the temps while I'm typing this is 26 and 31. The load temps are about 4-5 degrees different from the stock cooling while running Orthos. I'm not overclocking anything yet, but are those temps normal? Currently I have a Biostar MB, Core 2 Duo E6300 CPU, Sapphire 5770 Graphics card, 2 sticks of 2GB RAM, 5 hard drives, and 2 optical drives. Thanks


----------



## alancsalt

Martin tests fans and pumps and lots of things.

Fan testing Part 1

Fan Testing Part 2 (Radiator Tests & Videos)

Fan Testing Round 4, GT vs Noctua vs Silverstone vs Yate vs Rosewill

Fan Testing Round 5 (Working Thread)Are "NANO" Bearings the new sliced bread?

Round 6 Fan Testing (Working Thread)

140mm Fan Testing on a HWlabs SR1 Radiator Round 7

120mm Fan Testing Round 8 Results on an MCR120 

Fan Push vs Pull vs TFC Shroud Results

Fan Shroud Testing Corsair H50 **Updated H50 Results 1/13/10** Contagion


Yate Loon D12SH-12 Round-up Review [56k no] Tator Tot (Review for the Yate Loon High Speeds from different retailers)

The truth about Jab-Tech Yate loon, detailed pics...  ericfx1984

The Official Yate Loon Fan Club Papa Smurf


----------



## johnnyw

Hey,

Going to get 2 hand H50 today from friend to test and just wondering if anyone has tried which TIM application method actually works best for this cooler? Paste i will be using is noctua NT-H1 which is failry thick, and best way with big tower coolers for me has been pea sized drop to center but thats necessarily not the case with fairly light H50. So thats why im asking if anyone has actually tried several different methods and worked out which works best?


----------



## Kokin

I think the best quality Yates come from Sidewinders, Danger Den, and Petra's. I had bought 2 from Xoxide and there was a clear difference when I bought another 2 from Sidewinders. The Sidewinders Yates' blades were lighter and sturdier and it made slightly more airflow with equal or lesser noise.

Here is the review for the Yate Loon High Speeds from different retailers: Review

In regards to that pump noise issue a few pages back, I had the same thing happening to me before, but what I did was to unmount the rad, shake it up a bit, shake/tap the hoses while the rad is unmounted, and it finally went away.

Also, it seems like Arctic Silver 5 has lower temps when freshly applied vs a month or more afterwards. This isn't the case for many people, but I have seen the same results after repeatedly reapplying the paste every 4-6 months.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnnyw*


Hey,

Going to get 2 hand H50 today from friend to test and just wondering if anyone has tried which TIM application method actually works best for this cooler? Paste i will be using is noctua NT-H1 which is failry thick, and best way with big tower coolers for me has been pea sized drop to center but thats necessarily not the case with fairly light H50. So thats why im asking if anyone has actually tried several different methods and worked out which works best?


I just did the pea method and it works great for me. Spreading it out actually gave me worst temps, though everyone has their own preference with applying TIM.


----------



## johnnyw

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


I just did the pea method and it works great for me. Spreading it out actually gave me worst temps, though everyone has their own preference with applying TIM.


 Ok thx ill just do it as usual then







Spreading it isnt never been one of my options as it tends to make air pockets to paste which increases temps.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey vdn20, when you get your new fans use the original fan as a "shroud" between you push fan and the radiator. That means you'll have to gut the little feller and sacrifice him to the cooling god. It's a worthy sacrifice, the feller would not have died in vain.









~Ceadder


----------



## vdn20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13094434*
> Hey vdn20, when you get your new fans use the original fan as a "shroud" between you push fan and the radiator. That means you'll have to gut the little feller and sacrifice him to the cooling god. It's a worthy sacrifice, the feller would not have died in vain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I don't get what you are saying.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vdn20;13096105*
> I don't get what you are saying.


He means to cut out the blades from your stock fan, just leaving the frame. Then put it between your new fan and the rad. This helps get rid of the "dead zone" right behind the fan hub by allowing the air coming through the fan more time to converge before it hits the rad, therefore increasing the cooling of the rad.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13096264*
> He means to cut out the blades from your stock fan, just leaving the frame. Then put it between your new fan and the rad. This helps get rid of the "dead zone" right behind the fan hub by allowing the air coming through the fan more time to converge before it hits the rad, therefore increasing the cooling of the rad.


Also helps lower the dBs' from the vibration.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## draterrojam

Question about the H50 or the H60. I am looking to purchase one of these for my current build. However, I leave my computer on most of the day and for days at a time. I've read a few stories where this can cause the tubes to leak or isn't good for the H50/H60. Does anyone have any suggestions. I'm fine staying with air cool if I have to. I just wanted to make a little more room in my case is all. Please let me know. Thanks.


----------



## The_Seabigbear

Well I have the H70 & my i7-920 is OC @ 4.2 stable!


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liranan;13092802*
> Three reseats later and the cores are at 62C after 4 minutes of Prime. I am going to swap my CPU for the other 955 I have. This one is lapped, the other isn't.


Is the cold plate on your H70 lapped? The contact surface is very rough, and substantially concave. I found a huge drop in temps when I lapped mine, roughly 10C+ between that and the fan upgrade. My 970BE only hits 49C under Prime95 torture test.


----------



## vdn20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13097167*
> Also helps lower the dBs' from the vibration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Okay, I'll give that a shot when I get my fans, but I wonder if there will be enough room for that. Also, what size screws would I need for that? Thanks


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_Seabigbear;13098231*
> Well I have the H70 & my i7-920 is OC @ 4.2 stable!


I really don't like how those two video cards are sandwiched like that. I like breathing room if i were to have SLi cuz that looks like it can cause some serious heat.


----------



## qUAan

My contribution

H70


----------



## richie_2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qUAan;13099298*
> My contribution
> oh you have a kink at the bottom


----------



## qUAan

its for draining the res. You might make out a drain port in the pic.


----------



## Famousoverdose

How long are you guys waiting for the H70 TIM to cure before doing Prime and other stress tests?

And when you say cure, its just doing minimal stuff like gaming and browsing before a certain period of time? I am swapping my 50 for a 70 probably this Weds or Thursday as my 50 is going in my girls rig.


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Famousoverdose*


How long are you guys waiting for the H70 TIM to cure before doing Prime and other stress tests?


Mine cured for about a week under normal use after I re-installed the H70 (using IC Diamond); before I started running stress testing.


----------



## nitewulf

Count me in. Installed H70 with 2 GT AP-15s. Very happy.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *draterrojam*


Question about the H50 or the H60. I am looking to purchase one of these for my current build. However, I leave my computer on most of the day and for days at a time. I've read a few stories where this can cause the tubes to leak or isn't good for the H50/H60. Does anyone have any suggestions. I'm fine staying with air cool if I have to. I just wanted to make a little more room in my case is all. Please let me know. Thanks.


They should not leak at all. I usually turn my rig off, but I have had it on many times for 3-4 days straight and didn't even hear any air bubbles circulating. I'm sure some of the club members here leave their rigs on 24/7.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


I really don't like how those two video cards are sandwiched like that. I like breathing room if i were to have SLi cuz that looks like it can cause some serious heat.


How come so many of your posts are of your complaints on others' builds? It's either cable management or something else. Do you ever think that maybe that's the only option he might have with his motherboard? Had heat been a serious issue, he obviously wouldn't be using those cards anymore.

I'm not one to bring up complaints about others, but you should really start considering other factors before you post. I might be the first to complain, but I'm sure others will eventually.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *draterrojam*


Question about the H50 or the H60. I am looking to purchase one of these for my current build. However, I leave my computer on most of the day and for days at a time. I've read a few stories where this can cause the tubes to leak or isn't good for the H50/H60. Does anyone have any suggestions. I'm fine staying with air cool if I have to. I just wanted to make a little more room in my case is all. Please let me know. Thanks.


I haven't heard that one. When I had H50 left it on 24/7 for months no problems whatsoever. Not saying it's impossible to have a problem, just that it's only ppls with probs that usually post, so it's easy to imagine there are more probs than there are...

Most of these Corsairs are extremely reliable. Usual problems are seating, fan noise, minor stuff like that.


----------



## Capwn

ANnnnnnnd I'm back to the H50 club for the 4th time lol..


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


I haven't heard that one. When I had H50 left it on 24/7 for months no problems whatsoever. Not saying it's impossible to have a problem, *just that it's only ppls with probs that usually post*, so it's easy to imagine there are more probs than there are...

Most of these Corsairs are extremely reliable. Usual problems are seating, fan noise, minor stuff like that.


This. About everything. Makes you feel like nothing is reliable... lol.


----------



## Starbomba

Hey guys, i just got my H50 from the mail. This is an awesome cooler, moving from stock cooler to this has been like 25Â°c decrease in temps, plus now the only thing that sounds from my PC are the video card fans, and that's only on load


----------



## Famousoverdose

Quote:



Originally Posted by *luchog*


Mine cured for about a week under normal use after I re-installed the H70 (using IC Diamond); before I started running stress testing.


Is gaming in your normal use though? I do not want to lose out on my PC since I do most of my gaming on this thing.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Hey guys, i just got my H50 (http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...a/IMG_0857.jpg) from the mail. I bought it from a OCN member but he seems to have forgotten to add the screws to mount the fan to the rad. I saw somewhere that the screws had to have an specific length and width to not damage the rad. Been looking, but so far haven't found anything. Then i thought of asking here, with all of you guys owning this awesome cooler.


You must have found an answer to this, as you've edited it out, but:

Solutions to 6-32 screw problem for shroud fitting: (6 gauge 32 Threads per inch, not 6/32)

http://www.overclock.net/11766461-post15596.html my fix 4 me

http://www.overclock.net/11768920-post15600.html DJ4g63t's fix

http://www.overclock.net/11766844-post15597.html Mothman's fix

http://www.overclock.net/11769774-post15605.html Explanatory pic of Mothman's fix.


----------



## BradleyW

Am still not added to the list.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BradleyW*


Am still not added to the list.


Original Post: Last edited by Killhouse : 08-15-10 at 07:16 AM Reason: Updated

The OP ceased updating about here, but the rest of us are still here, posting and answering, whether our names are in a list or not....


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Famousoverdose*


Is gaming in your normal use though? I do not want to lose out on my PC since I do most of my gaming on this thing.


Yes, this machine is predominantly for gaming and testing. I have other boxes for running my network and streaming media servers.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Famousoverdose*


Is gaming in your normal use though? I do not want to lose out on my PC since I do most of my gaming on this thing.


I've been using the H70 for about three months or so now. I started beating on my CPU as soon as I installed it. To be honest I haven't noticed any temp improvements while the tim cures, however I'm using the stock tim from the H70 which is supposed to have a much shorter curing time, which makes sense.

Unless the games you're playing are torturing your CPU to 100% and increasing the temps beyond safe ranges, I wouldn't worry about causing any problems during the curing process.

If you are overclocking, it's simple enough to reduce the clock until after the cure is completed if you are worried.


----------



## Xristo

curing the tim does drop temps , maybe 1-5c over a few months period .. depending on how you applied it .

I do reccomend using as5 thermal paste over the stock one , i got much better results .. even though people say shin etsu is like gold , i find it rubbish . First time i seated my h50 with the stock pad on it i got 50-60c idle temps .. now i lapped my cpu , block and used as5 and left it to cure i get 28-30c idle and good load temps for a h50 .

For people using amd processor , the pad has good amount of paste for coverage .. but for an i7 user , there is way too much TIM and all you need is a thin line across the HS not a big fat round pad .. it makes it a nightmare .

Im really impressed by the h50 , i dont think ill go custom loop ever if i get such good temps on this baby ...


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


curing the tim does drop temps , maybe 1-5c over a few months period .. depending on how you applied it .

I do reccomend using as5 thermal paste over the stock one , i got much better results .. even though people say shin etsu is like gold , i find it rubbish . First time i seated my h50 with the stock pad on it i got 50-60c idle temps .. now i lapped my cpu , block and used as5 and left it to cure i get 28-30c idle and good load temps for a h50 .

For people using amd processor , the pad has good amount of paste for coverage .. but for an i7 user , there is way too much TIM and all you need is a thin line across the HS not a big fat round pad .. it makes it a nightmare .

Im really impressed by the h50 , i dont think ill go custom loop ever if i get such good temps on this baby ...


Wow, IDLE temps of 50 to 60c? That seems to me to be more of a fault or seating problem, I would hardly blame it on the tim, especially considering in between testing you added a lapping. Hardly comparable.

There are quite a few other i7 users here. Anyone else get such high idle temps with stock tim? Any other i7 users require removal of most of the tim before use?

Considering the extensive testing that has been done on thermal pastes here and on other sites, I would hardly call the stock tim "rubbish".

You actually believe tim and a lapping reduced your temps 20 to 30c? IMHO, I find that hard to believe. I might get along with 5c for the lapping and maybe a few c for better tim, but according to all the other people here as5 is not better than the stock paste, but equivalent other than the curing time. as5 actually takes a lot longer to cure.

I haven't been here long, but everything you say goes against everything else I've read in this thread, and I read the entire thread amongst others.


----------



## GAMERIG

idk if true, the Kühler 920 solidly outperforms the similar Corsair Hydro Series H70, just as Kühler 620 outperforms the Corsair H50, too.. rumors from what I've heard.

then what happen????


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


idk if true, the KÃ¼hler 920 solidly outperforms the similar Corsair Hydro Series H70, just as KÃ¼hler 620 outperforms the Corsair H50, too.. rumors from what I've heard.

then what happen????


The Antec doesn't out perform the H50. I have the latest issue of MaximumPC and they compare the H60 to it. Gave the Kuhler a 9 and the H60 an 8.









The Kuhler is nothing more than an H70 pump mated to an H50 Rad. So no, it doesn't beat the earlier models. The Kuhler is also manufactured by the company who makes the earlier Hydro Series systems.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dr.GumbyM.D.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


The Antec doesn't out perform the H50. I have the latest issue of MaximumPC and they compare the H60 to it. Gave the Kuhler a 9 and the H60 an 8.










The Kuhler is nothing more than an H70 pump mated to an H50 Rad. So no, it doesn't beat the earlier models. The Kuhler is also manufactured by the company who makes the earlier Hydro Series systems.









~Ceadder










An important point when considering all of this is that all of these benchmark reviews generally use stock fans and stock configurations. How many people on this forum debating temps between these products are going to leave their setups as stock? I've never even fired up the stock Corsair fan, as I ordered two new separate PWM fans with it when I bought it originally. The second thing I did after adding the fans was remove the stock TIM and used AS5....

I think individuals' customizations to any of these models (h50,h60,h70, kuhler, etc) are going to automatically negate whatever the reviews say about them, so they're not especially helpful around these parts, it tends to be more helpful to the less extreme crowd (though I guess only extreme people buy a self-contained watercooling setup for their CPU anyway, so they must be on here or somewhere else on the internet, so commercial reviews must be worthless from the start!







)


----------



## Soulniz

Hey guys, is this the best way to place the fans:

Fan1---->>Radiator<<----Fan2


----------



## Dr216

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Soulniz*


Hey guys, is this the best way to place the fans:

Fan1---->>Radiator<<----Fan2


erm .....if the arrows indicate the direction the fan is blowing air then no.

you want:

Fan1 >>>> rad >>>>fan2

Ie "push pull"

but yes you want to sandwich the rad between fans.


----------



## Soulniz

So both fans should be blowing into the case?


----------



## Dr216

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Soulniz*


So both fans should be blowing into the case?


or out of the case but yes they should both be blowing in the same direction


----------



## Ceadderman

@Dr.Gumby... Exactly. My point however was that the Kuhler can't be significantly different from its cousins because its made by the same company. About the only way it could be that different is if the liquid material was changed. Which is doubtful.

I also never fired up the stock fan. I hacked out its guts and mated it under my Yate Loon Push fan. So I guess _TECHNICALLY_ I'm using it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13111149*
> The Antec doesn't out perform the H50. I have the latest issue of MaximumPC and they compare the H60 to it. Gave the Kuhler a 9 and the H60 an 8.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kuhler is nothing more than an H70 pump mated to an H50 Rad. So no, it doesn't beat the earlier models. The Kuhler is also manufactured by the company who makes the earlier Hydro Series systems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I was curious so I went looking. According to this pretty well-done test, the thin rad Kuhler 620 beats the Corsair H50, and the thick rad Kuhler 920 beats the Corsair H70. It's a fairly comprehensive test he performed. Without all the units here to test, it's hard to argue with his data.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=721&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=5

@Dr.GumbyM.D.

"all of these benchmark reviews generally use stock fans and stock configurations. How many people on this forum debating temps between these products are going to leave their setups as stock?"

I really don't think that's the point at all. Look at the H70. Lots of people use the stock fans and the resister cable that comes with it. Just look back through all the messages in this thread. True, lots of people use their own fans as well (I also went the PWM path with a PWM splitter cable). However, you see lots of messages from people using the stock fans, especially on the H70 since it comes with two fans. Look at the reviews done by consumers on the sites that sell the coolers. Lots of people not even setting up the H50 with two fans because they don't know any better.

Stock coolers are easy to compare because they all have a set price. You get what they come with, and you pay what they cost. Most people just install and are done with it. These people need to know, which cooler to purchase for their budget, not which cooler to modify.

In this case, the Huhler 920 and the Corsair H70 compare great because they are so similar. You're comparing the entire cooler package, not just the rad and the pump. That includes the fans they come with. However, in the testing done above the author actually installed one single Delta High Speed fan on both coolers, and the Kuhler still out-performed the H70. That test puts both units on even ground (but them again, I still think the stock units are a fair comparison).

If you want to compare these types of coolers, you only have two choices: Stock and Modified.

We see the stock comparison above, but if we're going to talk modified you have to modify both coolers the same. You have to lap both coolers and use the same fans and shrouds or the comparison is no good.

IMHO, the test done at the link above levels the playing field fairly well by using the Delta fan test, and also shows a Stock comparison, and in both cases the Corsair is left behind. The only thing I would have done differently if I were in his position is that I would have tried the Corsair fans on the Kuhler and the Kuhler fans on the H70 (the tester says the Kuhler fans are way noisier and have a higher cfm rating) just to see what the effect on temps would have been. After all, the temperature difference diminished a bit when both units were using the Delta fan.

I love my H70, but I cannot argue with the test results without performing them myself.

Note the author seems to think the tubing is higher flow rate and the pump may be different. I don't know about the pump, but the tubing looks different.


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13111149*
> The Antec doesn't out perform the H50. I have the latest issue of MaximumPC and they compare the H60 to it. Gave the Kuhler a 9 and the H60 an 8.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kuhler is nothing more than an H70 pump mated to an H50 Rad. So no, it doesn't beat the earlier models. The Kuhler is also manufactured by the company who makes the earlier Hydro Series systems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


The antec does better than H70 with the same fan, and nearly the same at stock.
Quote:


> With its dual, high performance fans (according to Cooler Master, each fan is rated at 93CFM at full speed, for an aggregate airflow of over 180CFM) the Cooler Master V6 GT takes the lead here, keeping the blistering hot Core i7-950 4.7 degrees Celsius cooler than the Kühler. What's amazing here, though, is that the thin-radiator, single-fan Antec Kühler performs within a fraction of a degree of the double-thickness radiator, dual-fanned Corsair H70.


-benchmarkreviews

The antec units are asetek's best offering right now when it comes to these type of units. A better coldplate and different tubing improve performance drastically. Corsair decided to go with Coolit, and the Antec 620 beats the H60 in every way imaginable. Must be kicking themselves in the arse.
Quote:


> When it comes to performance the Antec Kuhler H2O 620 was up to 5C cooler than the Corsair H60. To top it all off, the 2 year warranty on the Corsair H60 falls short to that of Antec's 3 years on the Kuhler H2O 620. The Corsair H60 is a solid product, but it gets beat by its closest competitor when it comes to price, performance and warranty.


-legit reviews

Time for the Antec H2O 620/920 Club to take over


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah ummmm lemme run right out and snap one up.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## [nK]Sharp

My Gentle Typhoon AP-15's came in today for my H70


----------



## nerdybeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[nK]Sharp;13126157*
> My Gentle Typhoon AP-15's came in today for my H70


grats! I have mine on a fan controller - they are almost silent on ~1200rpm, then for prime/benching/summer gaming they go up to ~1650 for me and are still super quiet!!

enjoy!


----------



## Sifuthole

Nice!!!! I did it!!! 5Ghz with the H60!!!...My first i7 2600k just high the wall at 4.9ghz. So had to get a nice chip.


----------



## [email protected]

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Got anything better to do buddy? Seriously grow up.

No way you can get 5ghz with a H60!

TROLL.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sifuthole*


Nice!!!! I did it!!! 5Ghz with the H60!!!...My first i7 2600k just high the wall at 4.9ghz. So had to get a nice chip. Am I the first one to hit 5ghz with the H60?


Where is the proof?


----------



## Dr216

Erm why is 5ghz on a h60 hard to believe? you can get that on air easy enough with the SB chips (if you get a nice clocker) I assume the h60 is like the 50/70 in that it is more or less the equivalent of a high end air cooler.


----------



## alancsalt

The norm here is to provide a cpu-z validation. Sifuthole should post one to make us envious









Edit: Followed his posting trail. He needs to find the submit button


----------



## Dr216

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


Got anything better to do buddy? Seriously grow up.

No way you can get 5ghz with a H60!

TROLL.


I was referring more to this post, its all good asking for proof but that just seems unnecessarily rude.


----------



## PROBN4LYFE

Freshly put together...temps down an immediate 8*C with the Arctic Silver Matrix line application.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dr216*


I was referring more to this post, its all good asking for proof but that just seems unnecessarily rude.


i can relate there.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dr216*


I was referring more to this post, its all good asking for proof but that just seems unnecessarily rude.


Yup. This.









~Ceadder


----------



## Sifuthole

Sorry if i offended anyone, I'm just happy i finally did it. Have been trying for over a month.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sifuthole;13138233*
> Sorry if i offended anyone, I'm just happy i finally did it. Have been trying for over a month.


That's awesome, but a pic for proof would be nice. Just take a screenshot of CPU-z and post it. Sorry if anyone was rude about it though.


----------



## [email protected]f3

Well it's not my fault if i didn't believe it, i had every right to be cautious. Ya know how trolls are these days. Congrats on that clock but don't expect it to last forever.


----------



## Sifuthole

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];13139149*
> Well it's not my fault if i didn't believe it, i had every right to be cautious. Ya know how trolls are these days. Congrats on that clock but don't expect it to last forever.


It's all good, I understand how there are a lot of fake post out there. I was just too excited that I actually hit it after weeks of trying.


----------



## Demented

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


That's awesome, but a pic for proof would be nice. Just take a screenshot of CPU-z and post it. Sorry if anyone was rude about it though.


He can also just link us to the CPU-Z validation page...


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sifuthole;13140242*
> It's all good, I understand how there are a lot of fake post out there. I was just too excited that I actually hit it after weeks of trying.


Do this below. Then post yr validation at the 4GHz Club and the 1GHz (over stock) Club, and - theres a few of them!


----------



## BillyMako

4GHz and stable!

Prime95 was run for 13hrs and passed all tests, 0 errors.
Linx was run and finished without errors.
I don't want to go changing setting if i'm not going to get a performance gain or notice a performance increase.
I think next will be a SSD to replace my Raptor.

These are my settings ->

CPU: i7 950
M/B: ASUS P6X58D-E
RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR3 12GB 1600Mhz
COOLER: Corsair H70

Ai Overclock Tuner - Manual
CPU Ratio Setting - 21
Intel (R) SpeedStep (TM) Tech - Enabled
Xtreme Phase Full Power Mode - Enabled
BCLK Frequency - 191
PCIE Fequency - 100
DRAM Frequency - DDR3 - 1523MHz
DRAM CAS# Latency - 9 DRAM Clock
DRAM RAS# to CAS# Delay - 9 DRAM Clock
DRAM RAS# PRE Time - 9 DRAM Clock
DRAM RAS# ACT Time - 24 DRAM Clock

CPU Voltage 1.25000v
CPU PLL Voltage - 1.80v
QPI/DRAM Core Voltage - Auto
IOH Voltage - Auto
IOH PCIE Voltage - Auto
ICH Voltage - Auto
ICH Voltage - Auto

DRAM Bus Voltage - 1.50v
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHA - Auto
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHA - Auto
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHB - Auto
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHB - Auto
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHC - Auto
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHC - Auto

Load-Line Calibration - Enabled
CPU Differential Amplitude - Auto
CPU Clock Skew - Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum - Disabled
IOH Clock Skew - Auto










What program should i use for Benchmarking?
I want to know if my overclocking has increased performance of my PC.
What benefit will disabling Speed Stepper have?
Why does Real Temp say 3818.2a MHz and CPU-Z say 4007.5 MHz ?


----------



## alancsalt

Do a validation with your ocn user name in it, and join those clubs your oc fits into...

The 1Ghz Overclock Club That's 1GHz above the stock clock for your processor.

The 2Ghz Overclock Club That's 2GHz above the stock clock for your processor.

The 4Ghz Overclock Club Processors overclocked to 4GHz or more.

5GHz Overclocking Club For processors overclocked to 5GHz or more.

6Ghz + Elite Overclock Club For processors overclocked to 6GHz or more.

The BCLK Klub (FSB & HTT Welcome)

Intel CPU Stable Overclock for Overclock.net


----------



## tellmewhy99

Hi guys, i've been wondering, if h70 could fit into da box 100 blackheart? thanks!


----------



## BaByBlue69

Lan Gear DA BOX 100 - BlackHeart...








Very interest case, I knew not

I think, not inside the case


----------



## virus_on_web

First of all i want to say hello to all of you! then i woult like to ask you what info do you need to tell me if my temps are normal. I recently bought an H70.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *virus_on_web;13147930*
> First of all i want to say hello to all of you! then i woult like to ask you what info do you need to tell me if my temps are normal. I recently bought an H70.


Perhaps what your temps actually are at idle and load?







Use Coretemp and note the idle temps. Then, while Coretemp is running, run LinX or Prime95 for a good 10 minutes or so and grab a screenshot of it while your CPU is at 100% usage. Then, post that screenshot here.


----------



## BillyMako

Here's mine


----------



## virus_on_web

this are the temps in prime with the side fans off. in load they are allmoast the same with the temps i got with my old CM hyper 212+, in idle my cpu was cooler with the CM, around 30C on all cores +- 1or2 C.

i set the H70 both, intake and exhaust and tamps are the same. currently i left it as intake. my temps are mutch higher in occt or intel burn in test, arround 70-75. never got that high with the hyper 212+


----------



## Amadais

Had one for a while now. I don't know if lapping helps but i lapped mine.
The first pic is after about 5 minutes. The second is after close to an hour. Don't know if it helped or not but it is keeping my i5 2500k cool with IBT at 10 passes


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *virus_on_web*


this are the temps in prime with the side fans off. in load they are allmoast the same with the temps i got with my old CM hyper 212+, in idle my cpu was cooler with the CM, around 30C on all cores +- 1or2 C.

i set the H70 both, intake and exhaust and tamps are the same. currently i left it as intake. my temps are mutch higher in occt or intel burn in test, arround 70-75. never got that high with the hyper 212+


Maybe you should try reseating the water block on the CPU. Your old cooler is a great cooler, so your temps may only be 5c-10c better with the H70, but they _should_ be better.

The H70 seems to perform best at high loads, but you're saying you get higher temps at high load. I would have to think either you have a poor mating between your CPU and the water block, or there's something wrong with your H70.

Try removing the block and respread the tim and seat it again.


----------



## calvinbui

what is louder with a two fan config, the h50 or h70


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *calvinbui*


what is louder with a two fan config, the h50 or h70


Neither. It's all dependent on your fans. If you haven't any fans yet, I suggest Yate-Loon Medium or Low Speed Silents depending on your needs. If you're looking for a 4Ghz OC then I suggest the Medium Speeds. Especially if you're Folding.









~Ceadder


----------



## Yellowbeard

The amount of posts, pages, and views in this thread still blows my mind.

Any plans to add the H60 into this club?


----------



## Yellowbeard

Ah cool, on of our guys just put this thread up on our Corsair FB page. Thanks Killhouse!

http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/Corsair


----------



## Ceadderman

I've been featuring the H50 and my sig rig in my YouTube vid. Link is listed in my sigs.

I'm pretty sure that if someone took over the thread the H60 would be added.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Dr216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yellowbeard;13176551*
> The amount of posts, pages, and views in this thread still blows my mind.
> 
> Any plans to add the H60 into this club?


I think the club already does the title just hasnt been changed.


----------



## eternal7trance

I enjoy my h70.


----------



## [email protected]

What kind of fans are those?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


What kind of fans are those?


A quick google for "Viper case fans" lead me to this:

Retailer link

@eternal7trance: How do those sound at max speed?


----------



## [nK]Sharp

Once I get my new camera I will post some pics of mine with my GT AP-15's









Also going to paint them red/black to match the rest of my build.


----------



## iTz AiReZz

will i be able to fit an h70 into a cooler master storm scout? and where should i mount the radiator? top fan or back?


----------



## Ctrl+Alt+Del

well im in...riiight?

*Idle @ 72*F
full Load @ 105*F*


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iTz AiReZz*


will i be able to fit an h70 into a cooler master storm scout? and where should i mount the radiator? top fan or back?


Seems this person got it installed in the rear fan position:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...w-corsair.html


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


A quick google for "Viper case fans" lead me to this:

Retailer link

@eternal7trance: How do those sound at max speed?



They sound quiet minus the whooshing of air. The actual noise of the fan is not there.


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*


They sound quiet minus the whooshing of air. The actual noise of the fan is not there.


I'm using the Vipers as well. They are unnoticible, even under heavy load.


----------



## eternal7trance

Yea I bought them because the pressure was very comparable to the typhoons that everyone likes.


----------



## grassh0ppa

yea vipers are great fans. Wish I could get some in canada...have to stick with s-flex/kama flow 2


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


A quick google for "Viper case fans" lead me to this:

Retailer link

@eternal7trance: How do those sound at max speed?


Thanks for the link. What would you compare these to Cooler Master fan ? CFM wise? Cuz i know Cooler Master fans looks like it does run almost the same cfm as this one. I don't like yellow fins lol.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


Thanks for the link. What would you compare these to Cooler Master fan ? CFM wise? Cuz i know Cooler Master fans looks like it does run almost the same cfm as this one. I don't like yellow fins lol.


Which CM fan?


----------



## calvinbui

what is the temp difference between a dual fan h50 and a h70 IF they were to have the same two fans?


----------



## rusky1

Question about my push/pull setup on an H50. The R4's that I are in my setup have perforated cages, as in the cages have holes in them. Would it be better me to use some tape to block those holes so that I have more pressure?

I'm sure that CM built these with a purpose, I'm just unsure whether they're helping me in my situation or not.

Thanks!


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *calvinbui*


what is the temp difference between a dual fan h50 and a h70 IF they were to have the same two fans?


For most users, not enough to matter. It really depends on how much heat your processor generates, and your loads. Under high loads on hot-running procs is where you'll see the real difference between the two; which, judging from comparison reviews, will probably be somewhere between 5C and 10C.


----------



## odin2free

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Amadais*


Had one for a while now. I don't know if lapping helps but i lapped mine.
The first pic is after about 5 minutes. The second is after close to an hour. Don't know if it helped or not but it is keeping my i5 2500k cool with IBT at 10 passes


Hey man you should do more with it that lapping is a lil bit to scratchy 
the point of lapping is to create a vacum between the cpu and the cooler ( hence why on water cooling blocks there very shiny its yes because they are lapped to get as much contact to the cpu as possible) this should apply to yours to

Have you done a cpu lapp yet?

Of which this can help if your very carefull 
get down to the finest grade sand paper you can then use some toothpaste and a cloth ( anti static and fiberless ) did this on mine both the cooler and cpu and they are shiny







with a nice lil vaccum


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^What? Create a vacuum?









Ummmm I think you're reaching with that one. Both my CPU and my H50 are lapped. There is no vacuum. It's about flattening the CPU to have the flattest surface, while taking the already flat H50 plate and narrowing the distance to the bottom of the valleys that you cannot see with the nekkid eye. By doing so it allows the TIM better contact between the two surfaces allowing the heat to wick away optimally.







[/rebuttal]

Well I have to say that running the Yate-Loon Medium Speeds you can't even hardly tell the difference in temps. But it's really noticeable the difference in the dB scale running them @100% off my PWM controller.

Also the temps are really comparable to the High Speed Silents. Since I've replaced them I've been running the same temp I was while Folding, 41c. I'm glad I made the change.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Narsil

Hi all,

So, my parts for a new Sandy Bridge build are on the way. It will have an H70, in a 800D case.









I was considering mounting the H70 rad directly on the rear case wall, with a push/pull fan setup, one inside & one outside the case. ( The shrouds are just gutted 25mm case fan frames. Fans are Gentle Typhoons 1850's)

Kinda like this:

fan -- shroud-- case wall --rad -- shroud -- fan

My main concerns are whether this will get too _hot_ for the case wall metal? Also, will doing it this way reduce the cooling efficiency in any way ?

Has anyone here done it this way ? I see most setups with all the fans & shrouds inside the case.

And lastly, would your answer / advice change depending on whether the fans were set as exhuast _or_ intake ?

Thanks very much for any help for a new H70 owner !


----------



## Ceadderman

Should be fine. Lots of owners have mounted their Hydros in similar fashion.









Well I've got my system back up and running. Only one issue. I sleeved the new fans and mounted them in the same place as the earlier setup. Moved it back to the desk table and there weren't any problems. EXCEPT, my CPU temp jumped up to 51c.









So I thought man that's too much of a difference I think I'ma go back the the YL high speed silents. Started to get up and happened to peer in the top. Top fan set to Intake. Bottom fan set to Intake. > [50 Rad] <










Make sure you have your fans flowing in the same direction. You'd be surprised how much hotter your system will run with both fans facing each other.









Fixed it and temps are running IDENTICALLY to the YL HSSilents.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Narsil;13197807*
> Hi all,
> 
> So, my parts for a new Sandy Bridge build are on the way. It will have an H70, in a 800D case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was considering mounting the H70 rad directly on the rear case wall, with a push/pull fan setup, one inside & one outside the case. ( The shrouds are just gutted 25mm case fan frames. Fans are Gentle Typhoons 1850's)
> 
> Kinda like this:
> 
> fan -- shroud-- case wall --rad -- shroud -- fan
> 
> My main concerns are whether this will get too _hot_ for the case wall metal? Also, will doing it this way reduce the cooling efficiency in any way ?
> 
> Has anyone here done it this way ? I see most setups with all the fans & shrouds inside the case.
> 
> And lastly, would your answer / advice change depending on whether the fans were set as exhuast _or_ intake ?
> 
> Thanks very much for any help for a new H70 owner !


Yes you can mount it like that with no problem. Most people mount it inside the case because they don't want the fan on the outside. But if you have to do it that way, there is no difference at all.


----------



## moonmanas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13197670*
> ^^^What? Create a vacuum?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ummmm I think you're reaching with that one. Both my CPU and my H50 are lapped. There is no vacuum. It's about flattening the CPU to have the flattest surface, while taking the already flat H50 plate and narrowing the distance to the bottom of the valleys that you cannot see with the nekkid eye. By doing so it allows the TIM better contact between the two surfaces allowing the heat to wick away optimally.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/rebuttal]
> 
> Well I have to say that running the Yate-Loon Medium Speeds you can't even hardly tell the difference in temps. But it's really noticeable the difference in the dB scale running them @100% off my PWM controller.
> 
> Also the temps are really comparable to the High Speed Silents. Since I've replaced them I've been running the same temp I was while Folding, 41c. I'm glad I made the change.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I lapped the H50 then the CPU it made no differencs at all to temperatures, not a smidge, total waste of time and now blown warrantys on both....


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Narsil;13197807*
> Hi all,
> 
> So, my parts for a new Sandy Bridge build are on the way. It will have an H70, in a 800D case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was considering mounting the H70 rad directly on the rear case wall, with a push/pull fan setup, one inside & one outside the case. ( The shrouds are just gutted 25mm case fan frames. Fans are Gentle Typhoons 1850's)
> 
> Kinda like this:
> 
> fan -- shroud-- case wall --rad -- shroud -- fan
> 
> My main concerns are whether this will get too _hot_ for the case wall metal? Also, will doing it this way reduce the cooling efficiency in any way ?
> 
> Has anyone here done it this way ? I see most setups with all the fans & shrouds inside the case.
> 
> And lastly, would your answer / advice change depending on whether the fans were set as exhuast _or_ intake ?
> 
> Thanks very much for any help for a new H70 owner !


I have mine pretty much like that, minus one shroud:

fan -- shroud-- case wall --rad -- shroud -- fan

On my old Antec case I cut that part of the case out to reduce airflow restriction. On my K-62 I haven't done that, and my temps are pretty much the same. The case metal will be fine.


----------



## alancsalt

Shroud on the pull side is said to be not as effective as a shroud on push side.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonmanas;13198250*
> I lapped the H50 then the CPU it made no differencs at all to temperatures, not a smidge, total waste of time and now blown warrantys on both....


I'm sorry. However I have to say that I completely disagree with you. Lapping has to do with flattening the CPU. Not everyone will have the same results that I did, but I knocked over 10c off my overall temp by Lapping my CPU, replacing the TIM with the same stuff but not as thick an application and lapping the H50.

My stock Idle temps were ~46c to start. My average idle temp now is ~31c.

Not everyone is going to see that dramatic decrease in temps. Some see more. Some see less.

In fact I'd have to say that Lapping the CPU is what gave me that significant decrease. Because when I was trying to source out an issue I replaced the H50 with the stock cooler. The idle temp was slightly hight than my average Idle temp. In fact it was ~4c difference.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## moonmanas

Good to hear you had success with the lapping. Now ive blown the warranty and achieved nix, Im going to take those stiff pipes from the cooler and put nice UV blue ones, and a res. Couldnt get any G 1/4 to 6mmID plugs for the res here in UK though so have got G 1/4 to 8mm ID, 8mm ID and 6mm ID Tubes and waiting on two 8mm to 6mm reducers, had to get them from Germany lol, nothing in UK except mustard!

Ah yes, there isn't anything to "completely disagree" with, Im stating a fact that lapping the H50 and CPU did nothing for my temperatures.


----------



## Hawk777th

I need Part E in the manual! If anyone would send me these I will happily pay you!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hawk777th*




I need Part E in the manual! If anyone would send me these I will happily pay you!


Email Corsair, pretty sure they'll send them to you free of charge.









~Ceadder


----------



## Hawk777th

I did a week ago and have heard nothing and there site says they are out of stock...


----------



## Cpt.Planet

Heres a new mod for the H70 for your GPU

http://www.corsair.com/blog/using-a-hydro-series-h70-on-a-nvidia-geforce-gtx480/?utm_source=Corsair&utm_medium=Facebook_Twitter&utm_content=H70-GF_GTX480&utm_campaign=SocialMedia


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13198106*
> Should be fine. Lots of owners have mounted their Hydros in similar fashion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I've got my system back up and running. Only one issue. I sleeved the new fans and mounted them in the same place as the earlier setup. Moved it back to the desk table and there weren't any problems. EXCEPT, my CPU temp jumped up to 51c.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I thought man that's too much of a difference I think I'ma go back the the YL high speed silents. Started to get up and happened to peer in the top. Top fan set to Intake. Bottom fan set to Intake. > [50 Rad] <
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure you have your fans flowing in the same direction. You'd be surprised how much hotter your system will run with both fans facing each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed it and temps are running IDENTICALLY to the YL HSSilents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Lol.

+rep for admitting it.

I was looking at fans on Newegg, and I came across these Delta PWM fans (and another set as well):

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835706028

I think these are the fans I would use. Expensive, but really high speed and cfm. Sure, they're noisy but if they're BIOS controlled they will be at low speed most of the time reducing the noise. I know my Scythe PWM fans aren't the quietest when under heavy load. The people reviewing them seem impressed. If I ever order anything from Newegg, I think I'll add a couple of these fans.
148.3 CFM at 3900 RPM....oops, got some drool on my keyboard....









@moonmanas

I have heard of Corsair honoring the warranty for people who had lapped their water block. As long as they can determine your lapping didn't cause the problem I bet warranty would not be an issue. Of course, if you are going to change the hoses that may kill your warranty. Corsair is a pretty damn good company warranty wise. My next upgrade will include Corsair memory and one of their sweet RAM coolers with the fancy-ass LEDs. Of course that would require me to reposition my H70 to where everyone else positions theirs.


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cpt.Planet;13206766*
> Heres a new mod for the H70 for your GPU
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/blog/using-a-hydro-series-h70-on-a-nvidia-geforce-gtx480/?utm_source=Corsair&utm_medium=Facebook_Twitter&utm_content=H70-GF_GTX480&utm_campaign=SocialMedia


A simple but brilliant mod. I like how you kept the stock fan for cooling the VRAM.


----------



## ra_27

That just great how are the temps on the GeForce GTX 480 now?


----------



## _TRU_

UPDATE
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1779405


----------



## eskamobob1

its hard to see, but it is the best pic i have atm... its is a h70... plz add me


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*


its hard to see, but it is the best pic i have atm... its is a h70... plz add me










Due to the enormous size of this thread, you just *add yourself* to the google spreadsheet in the first post.









Otherwise, just keep on postin'


----------



## guydabest

Push/pull didn't seem to do much help for my system - only around ~2 degrees C change (51 average to 49 average)

To be honest, I'm surprised I have such high temps in the first place. I have that massive ~230mm fan in the front of my haf x, a 200mm side fan and another 200mm exhaust at the top...


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


Due to the enormous size of this thread, you just *add yourself* to the google spreadsheet in the first post.









Otherwise, just keep on postin'










ok... kwl


----------



## DJ4g63t

I decided to try running my H50 as a rear intake a month or two ago and decided that today I wanted to mount my new Yate loon high speed fans on it as rear exhaust. Much to my surprise this is what I found after running it as an intake for a month or two


























While my temps did go down using it as an intake at first. I did notice my core temps over the last week or so of gaming were a few degrees higher than they usually were with the fans as an intake. I can't imagine why







Lets just say I won't be using the H50 as an intake ever again. Not only did it make my H50 filthy and lose the performance benefit of intake it also increased my gpu temps buy roughly 5C while gaming.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hafta say that I just replaced my fans on my P/P in Exhaust and while my setup had dust in it, it wasn't anywhere near that bad. of course I have MDPCiFlex filters on my 932. Even have one on the GPU.









But wow talk about mucked up.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13217932*
> Hafta say that I just replaced my fans on my P/P in Exhaust and while my setup had dust in it, it wasn't anywhere near that bad. of course I have MDPCiFlex filters on my 932. Even have one on the GPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But wow talk about mucked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Yeah when my H50 is in p/p exhausting out the back I have very little dust in it as well. My case has a nice filter on the front intake fans and the system stays pretty clean.

Just for reference here are some before and after screenies

This is an IBT max test run this morning with the R4's p/p as intakes. Ambient temps were 20C










These are the same IBT max test run also this morning after cleaning the H50 and mounting my Yate Loon high speed fans in p/p exhausting out of the case.










Thats a 7C difference from the dirty intake setup to the cleaner exhaust setup. Both test were done at 4GHz. As you can also see when I exhaust the H50 my system and gpu temps are 4-6C cooler too. While gaming I'm seeing a 7C drop in gpu load temps by exhausting the H50. I gave the intake a shot but it def wasn't worth it im my case. Besides none of my temps are even close to the danger zone.


----------



## Ceadderman

Change out your fans to Medium Speeds. I did so with my High Speeds. Not only did I notice a drop in dBs' but I also noticed that my system runs the same temps I was running with the High Speeds. I've since figured out that High Speeds are overkill on the H50. I'd assume this is the same for all versions of the Hydro series.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13219012*
> Change out your fans to Medium Speeds. I did so with my High Speeds. Not only did I notice a drop in dBs' but I also noticed that my system runs the same temps I was running with the High Speeds. I've since figured out that High Speeds are overkill on the H50. I'd assume this is the same for all versions of the Hydro series.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Im happy with the high speed Yates. They are on a fan controller and the only time I run them at full blast is while gaming and I can't hear anything when that happens







Besides I like the extra umph the high speeds have to exhaust the heat my HD4870 produces a little better. I'm running the HR03 GT cooler on it and it vents heat inside the case rather than out the back.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t;13219186*
> Im happy with the high speed Yates. They are on a fan controller and the only time I run them at full blast is while gaming and I can't hear anything when that happens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides I like the extra umph the high speeds have to exhaust the heat my HD4870 produces a little better. I'm running the HR03 GT cooler on it and it vents heat inside the case rather than out the back.


Ahhh duly noted. Didn't realize you were running a GPU bareback.


















~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## [email protected]

Just wow.. notice how the thread expanded? SO popular! I'm planning to order Air Adapters for the fans i mentioned in the previous posts and i will get back to you all what the temps are. I think it's gonna push air differently. This is gonna be a fun experiment!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];13219838*
> Just wow.. notice how the thread expanded? SO popular! I'm planning to order Air Adapters for the fans i mentioned in the previous posts and i will get back to you all what the temps are. I think it's gonna push air differently. This is gonna be a fun experiment!


You're going to use a shroud in your workup right?

I don't think that it'll increase the amount of flow that much when used with a shroud, but I'm interested in seeing the results none the less. If it only nets me a degree or two I'm not sure that it would be worth the price. But that's me being subjective before the experiment. I'm here ready to have my mind changed and willing to allow it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


Just wow.. notice how the thread expanded? SO popular! I'm planning to order Air Adapters for the fans i mentioned in the previous posts and i will get back to you all what the temps are. I think it's gonna push air differently. This is gonna be a fun experiment!


Im not sure that will do much good on a rad. They are more for case fans to direct the air flow in a straighter pattern through your case. When you run a rad fan with a shroud there really isn't anywhere for the air to go but straight through the rad but like Ceadderman said I'm interested in the test results.


----------



## Amadais

Quote:



Originally Posted by *odin2free*


Hey man you should do more with it that lapping is a lil bit to scratchy 
the point of lapping is to create a vacum between the cpu and the cooler ( hence why on water cooling blocks there very shiny its yes because they are lapped to get as much contact to the cpu as possible) this should apply to yours to

Have you done a cpu lapp yet?

Of which this can help if your very carefull 
get down to the finest grade sand paper you can then use some toothpaste and a cloth ( anti static and fiberless ) did this on mine both the cooler and cpu and they are shiny







with a nice lil vaccum


Well actually that scratching i can't see with just my eyes but the camara pickes it up. I used 1500 grit wet/dry paper. Once i cleaned it off it was pretty shiney and flat. NOT at all like they come new with all the deep tooling marks.
I have not done the cpu yet. It is a new i5 2500k so i don't wanna void the warrenty yet. Maybe in a few months after im feeling like it is going to last awhile. I do believe what i did helped tho. I have my cpu running at 4.0GHZ
@1.205V and after 10 runs of IBT the max temp is 49C


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Amadais*


I have not done the cpu yet. It is a new i5 2500k so i don't wanna void the warrenty yet. Maybe in a few months after im feeling like it is going to last awhile. I do believe what i did helped tho. I have my cpu running at 4.0GHZ
@1.205V and after 10 runs of IBT the max temp is 49C


Just food for thought but most of the time lapping the cpu yields the biggest difference in temps. Your temps are no where near dangerous but it won't be long till you want to push that i5 farther and farther and of course your temps will rise. OC'ing is very addicting lol.


----------



## Amadais

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t;13220895*
> Just food for thought but most of the time lapping the cpu yields the biggest difference in temps. Your temps are no where near dangerous but it won't be long till you want to push that i5 farther and farther and of course your temps will rise. OC'ing is very addicting lol.


OH belive me i do plan on taking it higher for sure, just not yet and when i do i will finish the H50 and i5 to a mirror finish. You know how it goes im sure. New cpu/mobo want to see it working so ya settle for good enough and work on the neet little tweeks later I did upgrade from a E8400 that ran at 4GHZ the entire time i had it 24/7 so yeah im a addict i admit it. Its the dam warrenty thats stopping me!!


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


I decided to try running my H50 as a rear intake a month or two ago and decided that today I wanted to mount my new Yate loon high speed fans on it as rear exhaust. Much to my surprise this is what I found after running it as an intake for a month or two


















While my temps did go down using it as an intake at first. I did notice my core temps over the last week or so of gaming were a few degrees higher than they usually were with the fans as an intake. I can't imagine why







Lets just say I won't be using the H50 as an intake ever again. Not only did it make my H50 filthy and lose the performance benefit of intake it also increased my gpu temps buy roughly 5C while gaming.


Considering how clean the rest of the parts in the picture look, it seems your H70 was acting as a dust filter for the rest of your system.

Is that really dust (it looks so white and fluffy)? It almost looks like it could be fibers from cloth or something. Is it located in a residence? Is there any industrial work going on in the area? I live in a fairly dusty house, but even so it would take a couple of years to build up that much dust in a computer.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*


Considering how clean the rest of the parts in the picture look, it seems your H70 was acting as a dust filter for the rest of your system.

Is that really dust (it looks so white and fluffy)? It almost looks like it could be fibers from cloth or something. Is it located in a residence? Is there any industrial work going on in the area? I live in a fairly dusty house, but even so it would take a couple of years to build up that much dust in a computer.


This is located in my computer room in my house. Its not a dusty or dirty house what so ever. It sits under my computer desk up off the floor. I was amazed when I saw it cause the filter on my 2 120 intake fans in the front of my case never build up like that. I have no clue why its so bad but your right it was kinda fluffy.


----------



## CircuitFreak

It looks like a rabbit jumped into the fan and went POOF!


----------



## InvalidUserID

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


I decided to try running my H50 as a rear intake a month or two ago and decided that today I wanted to mount my new Yate loon high speed fans on it as rear exhaust. Much to my surprise this is what I found after running it as an intake for a month or two


























While my temps did go down using it as an intake at first. I did notice my core temps over the last week or so of gaming were a few degrees higher than they usually were with the fans as an intake. I can't imagine why







Lets just say I won't be using the H50 as an intake ever again. Not only did it make my H50 filthy and lose the performance benefit of intake it also increased my gpu temps buy roughly 5C while gaming.


You can always buy a $2 filter for that. That is what I've been using and when I vacuum my room, I simply vacuum the dust that is collected on the filter.


----------



## CircuitFreak

condenced into one post


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *InvalidUserID*


You can always buy a $2 filter for that. That is what I've been using and when I vacuum my room, I simply vacuum the dust that is collected on the filter.


Yeah but even with a filter that dirty it will hurt performance badly and I'd have to pull my computer out a few times a week just to vacuum it so its not really worth it to me.


----------



## Ceadderman

That dust looks like what I get out of mine(but thicker in concentration) when I clean my P/P. I've got Birds that are starting to molt. His dust is worse than mine but it looks to be about the same consistency in the particle scale. The birds are directly across from my system.

Now you know why I run MDPCiFlex filters. Remove them Rinse let dry do something else while the system is down pop them back on and restart the sig rig. Takes about 15 minutes total.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13226729*
> That dust looks like what I get out of mine(but thicker in concentration) when I clean my P/P. I've got Birds that are starting to molt. His dust is worse than mine but it looks to be about the same consistency in the particle scale. The birds are directly across from my system.
> 
> Now you know why I run MDPCiFlex filters. Remove them Rinse let dry do something else while the system is down pop them back on and restart the sig rig. Takes about 15 minutes total.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Yeah I have no birds in my house and my dog is an outside dog but I have had my window open the last few weeks along with the ceiling fan going so I'm sure thats not helping my situation. We do have wall to wall carpeting in that room as well so that could be an issue although the front intake fans filter never gets like that. I'm not overly concerned I got the H50 in p/p exhausting out the rear now and I've run that for a long time in the past with no dust problems what so ever.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CircuitFreak;13221612*
> Just installed a H50 after trading my V6Gt for it. Seems like the temps are about even between the coolers so far and a whole lot quieter.


Is it me or is that blue fan in your drive bay blowing against the front intake fan?


----------



## CircuitFreak

Just you lol , It's one of Antecs video card fan setups that would intake from the back in stock form , so I made a mount to take the cool front air instead of the dead semi warm air from the back.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209016

Unfortunatly had to buy two to get the fan to line up with the GPU fan correctly but it has helped drop the temps. i think i see 75 c max with a mild OC on it and 70% fan fixed.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CircuitFreak*


Just you lol , It's one of Antecs video card fan setups that would intake from the back in stock form , so I made a mount to take the cool front air instead of the dead semi warm air from the back.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835209016

Unfortunatly had to buy two to get the fan to line up with the GPU fan correctly but it has helped drop the temps. i think i see 75 c max with a mild OC on it and 70% fan fixed.


Ah I see lol. Most of those types of fans I've seen has always exhausted air out the back of the case not intake air. I know guys used to take those and modify them to suck air in. I assumed you had it set up as an intake but I was just curious lol.


----------



## Krusher33

I'm a "I'll believe it when I see it" type but I may have just won an H60.









I have never, *ever *considered dipping a toe outside of air cooling.


----------



## Raiden911

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krusher33*


I'm a "I'll believe it when I see it" type but I may have just won an H60.









I have never, *ever *considered dipping a toe outside of air cooling.


But you should. With the ease of installation with such water cooling setups from Asetek (H50, H60, etc), and Coolit (ALC, etc), it allows ppl to dip outside of using air coolers.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup yup. Which is why I went for it and I'm glad I did.









~Ceadder


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raiden911*


But you should. With the ease of installation with such water cooling setups from Asetek (H50, H60, etc), and Coolit (ALC, etc), it allows ppl to dip outside of using air coolers.


Reason I never considered these was because of cost and uncertainty.


----------



## Raiden911

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krusher33*


Reason I never considered these was because of cost and uncertainty.


Cost wasnt a factor for me and some because of the deals that popped out. The reliability was something that I worried about, but with that one story where that one H50 leaked and Corsair stepped and replaced everything really made the cooler pretty awesome to get. At the same time, the backing from Corsair was another plus. Given the success over the feedback, I think that uncertainty from the beginning was a hurdle for many.


----------



## ra_27

Reliability is something that I worried about a lot.

My system i7 920 system that I'm rebuild has to last me a 3 to 4 years from now.

I need some cooler that is going to keep my CPU cool when I start to overclock it. This will be the first time I will have done any overclocking so I want to keep my CPU as safe as I can.

I still looking on what to get I what a water cooler the like of Corsair H60/H70 or maybe the Antec KÃœHLER H₂O 920.

But have said that the Noctua NH-D14 looks OK as well for a air cooler.

I like Corsair stuff I have a Corsair 600T case and love it!

But have said that I do like the software helps you monitor and control the KÃœHLER H₂O 920, I wish Corsair had software like this.

I been reading a lot on the Corsair forums about leaks on The H50/H70 and while Corsair seem to be good at help fix this with RMA I just don't know if they just replace the cooler or the part that were damage why the cooler leaks.

Plus I see on YouTube some clips where there a load noise coming from the Pump head. All this has made me a little uncertain on what to get now.

I have to have a look at the Antec KÃœHLER H₂O 920 to see how it is with leaks and noises today I was look at the corsair side off & on yesterday.

So for me I think in the end it will come to,

1. Cost!

I think I'm OK for now on that.

2. How well will it work?

Will it be as good or better the a High End Air cooler eg.. 
Noctua NH-D14

3. It it going to leak or not?

This is the big one! 
I need to know more about this! I hope! I've just see some 1 off case and that I'm just reading to much in to this.

4. Is there going to be a bad noise from the pump head?

Same as 3.

5. How loud are the fans on it?

I like don't want to loud fans as my case is siting on my desk right next to me. (Kids need I say more on that one) I know I can change fans, but what fans would be best for it? the ones that come with it or does it not real matter.

At the end the day I have to go with some type of cooler that not the stock one that comes with my i7 920.

So what do I go for?

Is there a good review site that has the Antec KÃœHLER H₂O 920 , Corsair H50/H60/H70 and Noctua NH-D14 on it?


----------



## phazer11

Is an H60 ok? I've had bad experiences with H50's lol they seem to act like insulators and fry my Sandy Bridges lol.

At poster above I'm still not comfortable with water cooling. But honestly the Hydro Series is probably much less likely to leak than other coolers. Certainly less chances of doing something wrong than with a H20 Loop. And I haven't found a good review between the H50/H60/H70 and Antec Kuhler yet. There are plenty for H50/H70 and the Antec Kuhler IIRC.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ra_27*


Reliability is something that I worried about a lot.

My system i7 920 system that I'm rebuild has to last me a 3 to 4 years from now.

I need some cooler that is going to keep my CPU cool when I start to overclock it. This will be the first time I will have done any overclocking so I want to keep my CPU as safe as I can.

I still looking on what to get I what a water cooler the like of Corsair H60/H70 or maybe the Antec KÃœHLER H₂O 920.

But have said that the Noctua NH-D14 looks OK as well for a air cooler.

I like Corsair stuff I have a Corsair 600T case and love it!

But have said that I do like the software helps you monitor and control the KÃœHLER H₂O 920, I wish Corsair had software like this.

I been reading a lot on the Corsair forums about leaks on The H50/H70 and while Corsair seem to be good at help fix this with RMA I just don't know if they just replace the cooler or the part that were damage why the cooler leaks.

Plus I see on YouTube some clips where there a load noise coming from the Pump head. All this has made me a little uncertain on what to get now.

I have to have a look at the Antec KÃœHLER H₂O 920 to see how it is with leaks and noises today I was look at the corsair side off & on yesterday.

So for me I think in the end it will come to,

1. Cost!

I think I'm OK for now on that.

2. How well will it work?

Will it be as good or better the a High End Air cooler eg.. 
Noctua NH-D14

3. It it going to leak or not?

This is the big one! 
I need to know more about this! I hope! I've just see some 1 off case and that I'm just reading to much in to this.

4. Is there going to be a bad noise from the pump head?

Same as 3.

5. How loud are the fans on it?

I like don't want to loud fans as my case is siting on my desk right next to me. (Kids need I say more on that one) I know I can change fans, but what fans would be best for it? the ones that come with it or does it not real matter.

At the end the day I have to go with some type of cooler that not the stock one that comes with my i7 920.

So what do I go for?

Is there a good review site that has the Antec KÃœHLER H₂O 920 , Corsair H50/H60/H70 and Noctua NH-D14 on it?


Very few leak or knock. You only get the problems on forums rather than all the satisfied owners. Well I'm a very satisfied owner whose H50 has never knocked, gurgled or leaked, and I'm only one of many.

If they are not installed properly (and they do require care when installing) then they will run hotter.

I only went custom water because I wanted more, more, more.


----------



## rotorr00t

Here is my nw H60 I installed today, temps dropped about 5C at idle to 35C.


----------



## Ceadderman

The noise is fixable IMHO.

Software, well a solid temperature app would be just fine. Cause that's all you're getting from Antec anyway.

Compares favorably with the Noctua and Megahelms. And takes up a lot less room on the Motherboard.

The fans are as loud as the ones you buy. If you buy Delta 3k RPM fans you're going to have to wear ear plugs with your system on the Desk. If you get Gentle Typhoons or Yate Loon Medium speeds you can control them through your BIOS or with a decent Fan Controller.

As to whether or not it will leak? You can ask that about ANY liquid cooler from the prebuilt to the most expensive loop. Just don't use screws(or bolts) longer than you need them to be. The mounting tabs are no thicker than the MoBo tray on most Cases. If you use bolts that are too long you run the risk of puncturing the Rad and of course it will leak. There are A LOT of the Corsair Coolers out and there aren't a ton of reported leaks or incidents. Do they happen? Yes. However Corsair is very good about taking care of their own.









From my personal experience I have to say that Yate Loon Medium to Low Speed fans are the best. You only need them to go as fast as the vanes in the Rad can wick heat away. I changed from High Speed to Medium Speed and they are considerably quieter. You can get YLs' for $4 each or cheaper depending on where you go and if you buy bulk which is generally 3 and up depending on where you get them.









~Ceadder


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ra_27*


2. How well will it work?

Will it be as good or better the a High End Air cooler eg.. 
Noctua NH-D14

3. It it going to leak or not?

This is the big one! 
I need to know more about this! I hope! I've just see some 1 off case and that I'm just reading to much in to this.

4. Is there going to be a bad noise from the pump head?

Same as 3.

5. How loud are the fans on it?

I like don't want to loud fans as my case is siting on my desk right next to me. (Kids need I say more on that one) I know I can change fans, but what fans would be best for it? the ones that come with it or does it not real matter.


2. At stock it's about equivalent to high-end air coolers like the Noctua D14. With a minor amount of modding -- lapping the cold plate, upgrading the fans -- it should outperform the D14 by at least a few degrees C, likely more if you get good fans.

3. Considering how many of these are out there, leaks appear to be quite rare unless you're really abusing the thing.

4. Pump noise appears to also be very rare, and nearly all cases I've seen involve having the pump mounted higher than the radiator, allowing air to collect in it. If you keep the radiator above the pump, there shouldn't be a problem.

5. If you're using the stock fans with the included Y-splitter, noise should be minimal; but your performance will not be exceptional, since it includes resistors to reduce the voltage, and thereby reducing fan speed and noise. Using a non-voltage-reducing splitter will improve performance, but increase noise. Upgrading the fans to a high-quality low-noise model suitable for rads (I recommend Akasa Vipers) will allow high performance with a very good noise profile. I don't even notice mine, even under heavy load.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


Very few leak or knock. You only get the problems on forums rather than all the satisfied owners. Well I'm a very satisfied owner whose H50 has never knocked, gurgled or leaked, and I'm only one of many.

If they are not installed properly (and they do require care when installing) then they will run hotter.

I only went custom water because I wanted more, more, more.


that makes 2 of us ..

I have had my h50 for about 6 months now and i havent had an issue yet , no gurgling or leaks , nothing ( knock on wood ) this cooler is awsome .. With all my tweaking and the lovely ambients sydney is having atm i get 28c idle / 68c load @ 4.2ghz on my i7 ...

As far as im concerned thats up there with the custom loops , and im only using 2 generic fans in push pull lol at one stage i had 3,000rpm fans in push pull on my rad and the temps were incredible but the noise it made totally ruined that experience for me so i used quieter fans and still have great temperatures .

Lapping my cpu and block of the h50 helped drop temps considerably , along with a tiny amount of as5 thermal compound and a good mounting job its helped changed this cooler from ( good as top end air coolers ) to just as good as your gonna get with watercooling unless you spend hundreds on a custom loop or get phase change .

Pretty impressive for a $60 h50 , you dont need to maintain it or anything just clean out the dust from your rad every month or two and it should last for years .

I highly reccomend the h50/60/70 to anyone that wants to start a basic watercooled pc .. gave me a whole lot of knowledge on how all this stuff works ( thanks to this thread ) now i am confident to put together a custom loop in my pc .. where as before i had no idea . But im sticking with my h50 until my next major build in maybe 1-2 years ? no need to get custom loop when my temps are exceptional with a h50 .


----------



## phazer11

Lol I found a use for my CoolerMaster V6 GT (which kept killing my socket 1555 ASUS boards check out the warning in my sig if you want to know more) I'm using the 94 CFM fans and the Y-Splitter from it.

Oh hi there Ceadder


----------



## ra_27

Thanks, may be that what has happen with the one the ones I read about not install just right.

rotorr00t the H60 looks great in there.

I see that you have it mount at the top was that hard to do? or is tat just high up the back of the case?


----------



## ra_27

I have to say after reading what you guys have post I have to day I feel a lot better about the leaks not happen.

many thanks now all I have to do is see If I go water or not at this stage I'll say yes.

and now I just have to work out what to get corsair H60/H70 or the Antec KÃœHLER H₂O 920.

Still like the software and that fact to color light is a good way to see that it is power up.


----------



## Jen

well appears i have pump noise on this corsair h70 , i hope this stops else i have to return it back to place of purchase. good temps from what i see useing gentle typhoons ap14s

Jen


----------



## alancsalt

For those people who do experience this problem, the good thing is that Corsair have been very good on the warranty. Not every manufacturer is. Is yours a growl/ticking or the gurgle? If it is the gurgle a change of position can help.


----------



## Jen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


For those people who do experience this problem, the good thing is that Corsair have been very good on the warranty. Not every manufacturer is. Is yours a growl/ticking or the gurgle? If it is the gurgle a change of position can help.


more like rattle type noise to me , might be air in pump area am not sure? i may try to move case around in a bit to see if that will fix it . cant really change radiator orientation due to case that it is in. the radiator is higher than the pump .

Jen


----------



## phazer11

If I remember correctly aren't there issues with mounting it with the rad on top?


----------



## Xristo

The only time u should here the pump is if you move the radiator and the hoses .. if u turn the system back on u will hear a swoosh of water going through the pump which is kind of a gurgling sound . Any permanant gurgling noises means there is something wrong with your pump .

You should not hear the pump at all , if you can hear it .. return it for a new one because its defective .

The only time you could probably hear the pump , is if ur in a dead silent room and your pc has no fans in it to override the sound .. it would be a very low volume sound almost silent .

if u can hear the pump more than anything else in ur pc , there is an issue .


----------



## Ceadderman

No there aren't any issues with mounting it up top Phaser. Just lay your Cabinet on it's back and just take it easy lining up the bolts. Don't be in any major hurry when doing so and you should have no problems. You really don't even need to undo the I/O panel to get at them but doing so makes it easier to access the front two 120mm mounts.









Once your top fan and Rad are in place you have all the access you need to get at the underside Rad mounts.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Jen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;13236478*
> The only time u should here the pump is if you move the radiator and the hoses .. if u turn the system back on u will hear a swoosh of water going through the pump which is kind of a gurgling sound . Any permanant gurgling noises means there is something wrong with your pump .
> 
> You should not hear the pump at all , if you can hear it .. return it for a new one because its defective .
> 
> The only time you could probably hear the pump , is if ur in a dead silent room and your pc has no fans in it to override the sound .. it would be a very low volume sound almost silent .
> 
> if u can hear the pump more than anything else in ur pc , there is an issue .


was really hope it wasnt defective as i hate having to send things back and pc be dead for another week or two

yes noise is still there but temps are good and i do have fans on this system but it makes more noise than them

well if case is on its side noise goes away , if case is standing up noise is present

Jen


----------



## alancsalt

You got a pic of your setup? There was a rave about which way the hoses come out of the pump, but can't remember... obviously moving the pump around, but which way/how...


----------



## fatalizer

Hi guys!

does anyone got an Hydroseries on an ANTEC DF-85???

From a lot of reviews i saw that there is a back panel to choose top and rear fans speed.

Is it a problem to install the radiator???


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fatalizer*


Hi guys!

does anyone got an Hydroseries on an ANTEC DF-85???

From a lot of reviews i saw that there is a back panel to choose top and rear fans speed.

Is it a problem to install the radiator???


I have mine installed on the lower rear fan,..no issues, even with a side panel fan as well.


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jen*


was really hope it wasnt defective as i hate having to send things back and pc be dead for another week or two

yes noise is still there but temps are good and i do have fans on this system but it makes more noise than them

well if case is on its side noise goes away , if case is standing up noise is present

Jen


If it is quiet with the case on its side you either have a "noisy" case (rattling) or the pump/rad has air trapped in it.


----------



## Jen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *clubfoot*


If it is quiet with the case on its side you either have a "noisy" case (rattling) or the pump/rad has air trapped in it.


its not case ,

and yes i think its air trapped since pump is lower than radiator how do i fix this. radiator is to top of case as thats only place it can go , and pump is below radiator . i seen others use this same case and not heard of one of them complain about this

Jen


----------



## alancsalt

Probably a dumb answer, not seeing it or being there, but if the hoses are at the bottom of the pump/heatsink, I would be thinking to turn it so that any air could exit and get trapped somewhere it couldn't do any harm. That would mean unseating and repositioning.

I had my rad with tubes at bottom just in case there was any air, but never had the problem. If the hoses are up top already, or that doesn't help, then rma might have to be.


----------



## Jen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alancsalt*


Probably a dumb answer, not seeing it or being there, but if the hoses are at the bottom of the pump/heatsink, I would be thinking to turn it so that any air could exit and get trapped somewhere it couldn't do any harm. That would mean unseating and repositioning.

I had my rad with tubes at bottom just in case there was any air, but never had the problem. If the hoses are up top already, or that doesn't help, then rma might have to be.


hoses are at bottom due to the closeness of radiator . i may be able to move hoses sideways but that will be it.

Jen


----------



## alancsalt

Or take it off and run while offboard with hoses at top for half minute, then replace?

A spare power supply can be made to supply power by connecting the green wire and any black wire in the twenty or more pin plug for mobo and using fan/power adapter plug to power the pump without running computer ...


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey Jen, do you have a pic of your setup handy? It might make it easier to help you correct the problem.









~Ceadder


----------



## phazer11

Anyone have any ideas on this?
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...l#post13243578

They haven't posted pictures yet but ideas?


----------



## Jen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Hey Jen, do you have a pic of your setup handy? It might make it easier to help you correct the problem.









~Ceadder










here is picture , excuse the mess as i havent finished this case and waiting for a powersupply.


----------



## phazer11

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jen*


here is picture , excuse the mess as i havent finished this case and waiting for a powersupply.











Gotta give you props I haven't seen a case like that before. Wait what do you mean waiting on a PSU isn't there one in there or is it inadequate or dead? The card being mounted like that would worry me. Also I'd suggest you do some serious cable management (zip tips at the very least to help make more of your available space and improve airflow. Other than that if you're still waiting on PSU it might be best to just RMA it so you have less downtime.

Personally I'd try to move the PSU cage and put the case on it's side that way the pump is not fighting gravity. 
Also is that a fan controller or something on top of your PSU or is it your HDD cage or is that the weird pyramid thing in the bottom left?


----------



## Jen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phazer11*


Gotta give you props I haven't seen a case like that before. Wait what do you mean waiting on a PSU isn't there one in there or is it inadequate or dead? The card being mounted like that would worry me. Also I'd suggest you do some serious cable management (zip tips at the very least to help make more of your available space and improve airflow. Other than that if you're still waiting on PSU it might be best to just RMA it so you have less downtime.

Personally I'd try to move the PSU cage and put the case on it's side that way the pump is not fighting gravity. 
Also is that a fan controller or something on top of your PSU or is it your HDD cage or is that the weird pyramid thing in the bottom left?


this one that is in there is weak needs to be replaced. yes i agree on the cable management i just havent done it since i may need to remove this h70 and replace it . i like the case standing as it takes up less desktop space. the item above powersupply is laptop bluray burner kind of odd i know.

seen others do the same thing with h70 in this case so thought wasnt a problem that the pump could do this. nothing i read said otherwise

Jen


----------



## Ceadderman

No worries on that setup Phaser. That's the newest Silverstone Case.









I know what the problem is right now.

Rotate the pump fittings to either the 9 o'clock position or the 3 o'clock position. Those H70 pumps don't seem to like 12 or 6 o'clock positions for some reason. Rotating it should clear up your noise issues. You might have to rap on the outlet tube a bit with a standard wood pencil but once you get it to settle, it should clear up the problem and you shouldn't have any more of them so long as you remember not to mount the pipes straight up or straight down.









Awesome cabinet btw. You should add your system in the UserCP up top so that it will be easier to assist you later on should you have any issues other than the H70 crop up.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


No worries on that setup Phaser. That's the newest Silverstone Case.









I know what the problem is right now.

Rotate the pump fittings to either the 9 o'clock position or the 3 o'clock position. Those H70 pumps don't seem to like 12 or 6 o'clock positions for some reason. Rotating it should clear up your noise issues. You might have to rap on the outlet tube a bit with a standard wood pencil but once you get it to settle, it should clear up the problem and you shouldn't have any more of them so long as you remember not to mount the pipes straight up or straight down.









Awesome cabinet btw. You should add your system in the UserCP up top so that it will be easier to assist you later on should you have any issues other than the H70 crop up.









~Ceadder










thank you , i will try that next . i guess i have to reapply thermal grease as well . may be good time to see how rough the copper is on bottom

Jen


----------



## Ceadderman

Do you have enough room in your case to turn the Radiator so the Pipes are furthest away from the CPU? That should help you find the sweet spot for your pump if you have the room to do so. Just a thought.









~Ceadder


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jen;13245688*
> thank you , i will try that next . i guess i have to reapply thermal grease as well . may be good time to see how rough the copper is on bottom
> 
> Jen


Yes and if your up for it and you dont have to rma it , give it a light sand with some fine grit sand paper to even out the surface on the block .. it will give you better temps and the thermal compound will transfer heat more accuratly into the block .


----------



## phazer11

Hmm I guess I never thought about Silverstone made cases.


----------



## thrasherht

So I just changed the tubing on my secondary computer that I have a modded H50 in. I thought I would show you guys the results. I am very happy.
I changed it out for some blue 1/4in tubing that I got from oolertheinventor, he did his corsair heaven project, and I was the one to find him a 100 foot roll of blue tubing for his H50. He was kind enough to give me a small length to use for my computer in payment for finding him such a deal on the tubing. Ooler is a really great guy, and is an awesome member of OCN.
without futher wait, here are pictures.


----------



## Ceadderman

Wow pretty cool. All you're missing there are chipset blocks.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13248232*
> Wow pretty cool. All you're missing there are chipset blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


haha that would be pretty cool. First I want to get a new case for it, and get some better rads to replace the H50 ones. I am thinking I can get some good rads, then use the H50 longer, and then upgrade the block and use the H50 as a pump, and then buy a new pump. By then I will have a full custom loop.
The H50 pump is actually really good. I pushes a decent amount of water, the only thing that holds it back is the block design, it is insanely restrictive. Even with a 750Lph pump, it flows no faster then the h50 pump.

I tested it with the Rasa 750 pump, and the h50 pump working together and flow rate increased barely at all.


----------



## agentsmith5150

Does this count?


















idle 30-34C (28C ambient) cant complain about 2C over ambient i suppose.
54C Load at 3.85Ghz @1.27vcore


----------



## Ceadderman

Is your H60 noisy with the pipes out the top like that?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## agentsmith5150

Not at all it wouldn't seat correctly/evenly in any other position :/ ask me how I know >.> I think it needs to be lapped. But no its not noisy at all in this config


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay kewl. Just most of the people that report noise issues their block is generally either at the top or the bottom of the CPU. Was just wondering if you were experiencing the same issues. Thanks for clarifying though. Appreciate it.









~Ceadder


----------



## zefs

Does anybody know the mm of air pressure of the H70 fans? I got some coolermaster R4 here which claim to have 3.04 mm H2O and not sure if they are better.
Please advise


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zefs*


Does anybody know the mm of air pressure of the H70 fans? I got some coolermaster R4 here which claim to have 3.04 mm H2O and not sure if they are better.
Please advise










H60_
The kit also comes with a single 120x120x25mm cooling fan that runs at up to 1700RPM and has a noise level of 30.2 dB(A). The max airflow is 74.4 CFM with a static pressure of 3.2mm H20.

H50_
The kit also comes with a single 7-blade 120x120x25mm cooling fan that runs at 1700RPM. After contacting the engineers at Corsair we were informed that the fan was sourced from well known cooling fan manufacturer Akasa. The model AK174CB-4BLB cooling fan has a 50,000 hour life span and a twin ball bearing design. This fan consumes 2.2W when running at 1700RPM and has a noise level of 29.75 dB(A). The max airflow is 59.05CFM with a static pressure of 3.57mm H20.

H70_

Corsair rates the fans at 50.35-61.2 CFM, 1600-2000rpm, 1.8-2.3mm H20 static pressure (each) and 26-31.5dBA of noise per fan. Each fan has a 3-pin connector and Corsair supply a cable to power these off a single 3-pin motherboard connector.


----------



## zefs

Thanks I'll use the R4 then


----------



## chopiz

Hi guys

I'm asking those who have Corsair H60 users
have you use it on an i5? how dose it perform lets say compared to Corsair A70?

thinking of buying H60 recently but haven't found any reviews that I can make
shore it's worth the money I/m paying for compered to A70


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey alancsalt, just to clear up the Akasa reference on the H50. It's actually a Yate-Loon fan like all of the fans in Corsair's products. Not sure how the Akasa was mentioned but I believe it to be incorrect.









And it depends on where you get them(or so it's been explained to me) as to what the exact mm the Yate Loon will run. I'm not sure I believe this entirely. I think it's the luck of the draw myself, but anything is possible I guess. Of course I could always have my wires crossed on the exact specifics of this last bit.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## THC Butterz

my H70 is awsome 11C-16C idle (depending on ambient temps) and no more than 36C under load (when im overclocked to 4.2ghz) the only down side is the stock fans came with no vibration reduction mounts or pads and they are loud although the pump is silent, i must use speed fan to lower my fan speeds so the noise is manageable


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13255514*
> my H70 is awsome 11C-16C idle (depending on ambient temps) and no more than 36C under load (when im overclocked to 4.2ghz) the only down side is the stock fans came with no vibration reduction mounts or pads and they are loud although the pump is silent, i must use speed fan to lower my fan speeds so the noise is manageable










... either your temps are wrong or my H50 is seated really bad. My idle temps are your load temps and with a 4.0GHz OC running prime95 my temps got up to 68C, and I've got two 3k Ultra Kazes in push/pull...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13256352*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... either your temps are wrong or my H50 is seated really bad. My idle temps are your load temps and with a 4.0GHz OC running prime95 my temps got up to 68C, and I've got two 3k Ultra Kazes in push/pull...


Don't you know that Speed Kills?









For some reason the slower the fan the better the cooling.









Try a reseat though cause it may improve your temps a bit.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13256421*
> Don't you know that Speed Kills?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For some reason the slower the fan the better the cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try a reseat though cause it may improve your temps a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I probably should, although 11C still seems awfully low. That's like 50F and it doesn't seem like anyone would keep their house at 50F.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13256451*
> I probably should, although 11C still seems awfully low. That's like 50F and it doesn't seem like anyone would keep their house at 50F.


Some don't run the heater this early in the Spring. 50F is a typical Boise Spring temp. Or was when I lived in that part of the country.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13256525*
> Some don't run the heater this early in the Spring. 50F is a typical Boise Spring temp. Or was when I lived in that part of the country.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Huh... well... Good for butterz then!


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13256579*
> Huh... well... Good for butterz then!


i live in California its been about 65F-70F all the time and i know my temps are right, ive checked them with core temp, speed fan, and my fan speed controller and they both give me about the same readings (11C is usually when its night or first thing in the morning when its about 50F, durring the day im usually between 15-16C)
I'm using the stock thermal strip, I've never had ro reseat it, and i made sure when i mounted it that the thermal strip was square with the CPU and it is snugly tightened to the motherbord


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13254394*
> Hey alancsalt, just to clear up the Akasa reference on the H50. It's actually a Yate-Loon fan like all of the fans in Corsair's products. Not sure how the Akasa was mentioned but I believe it to be incorrect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it depends on where you get them(or so it's been explained to me) as to what the exact mm the Yate Loon will run. I'm not sure I believe this entirely. I think it's the luck of the draw myself, but anything is possible I guess. Of course I could always have my wires crossed on the exact specifics of this last bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Hey Ceadderman, just to clear up the Akasa reference on the H50. That is what Corsair told a hardware testing site, and if you feed it into Google you'll find it all over the place now.









http://www.google.com.au/#sclient=psy&hl=en&site=&source=hp&q=After+contacting+the+engineers+at+Corsair+we+were+informed+that+the+fan+was+sourced+from+well+known+cooling+fan+manufacturer+Akasa.+The+model+AK174CB-4BLB+cooling+fan+has+a+50%2C000+hour+life+span+and+a+twin+ball+bearing+design.+This+fan+consumes+2.2W+when+running+at+1700RPM+and+has+a+noise+level+of+29.75+dB%28A%29.+&aq=&aqi=&aql=&oq=&pbx=1&fp=2ef706e1a418876d


----------



## Rogue71

[URL=http://img860.imageshack.us/i/dsc0054q.jpg/]"]

please add me to the H70 club.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13256991*
> i live in California its been about 65F-70F all the time and i know my temps are right, ive checked them with core temp, speed fan, and my fan speed controller and they both give me about the same readings (11C is usually when its night or first thing in the morning when its about 50F, durring the day im usually between 15-16C)
> I'm using the stock thermal strip, I've never had ro reseat it, and i made sure when i mounted it that the thermal strip was square with the CPU and it is snugly tightened to the motherbord


Cool. I'm glad it's working so well for you then. I'm planning on ditching my H50 for a wc loop soon anyway.

@rogue71
Looks sweet!


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13257968*
> Cool. I'm glad it's working so well for you then. I'm planning on ditching my H50 for a wc loop soon anyway.
> 
> @rogue71
> Looks sweet!


lol, you read my mind, a "real" WC loop is my next upgrade too








i can keep my cpu temps down but my video cards run hotter than i would like so im definently thinking the same thing


----------



## dafootballer

**** now that i look is mine even installed right? it was pain in the ass in my small case.


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^ Flip that Rad over so the pipes intake and outlet at the bottom. Other than that I don't see anything wrong with your setup.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt;13257193*
> Hey Ceadderman, just to clear up the Akasa reference on the H50. That is what Corsair told a hardware testing site, and if you feed it into Google you'll find it all over the place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.google.com.au/#sclient=psy&hl=en&site=&source=hp&q=After+contacting+the+engineers+at+Corsair+we+were+informed+that+the+fan+was+sourced+from+well+known+cooling+fan+manufacturer+Akasa.+The+model+AK174CB-4BLB+cooling+fan+has+a+50%2C000+hour+life+span+and+a+twin+ball+bearing+design.+This+fan+consumes+2.2W+when+running+at+1700RPM+and+has+a+noise+level+of+29.75+dB%28A%29.+&aq=&aqi=&aql=&oq=&pbx=1&fp=2ef706e1a418876d


Hmmm that's weird cause other than mine being clear for LED, my yates have the same everything on them in comparison. Maybe YL is manufacturing for Akasa? I dunno that's weird.

Either that or Corsair dumped them and went to Akasa instead.Just slightly odd.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13258168*
> ^^^ Flip that Rad over so the pipes intake and outlet at the bottom. Other than that I don't see anything wrong with your setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


execpt maybe that he had a hard time installing it,( wouldn't have that problem if he had a HAF series case)cough cough


----------



## dafootballer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13258238*
> execpt maybe that he had a hard time installing it,( wouldn't have that problem if he had a HAF series case)cough cough


I remember it being impossible to install if i flipped it over, but i have case fans at the top if thats what you mean by intake outake

I love my case







just wish it was a full tower...


----------



## Ceadderman

Well if you mounted the Rad first(and I'm not saying you didn't) you should be able to mount the block w/o issue. Now granted I'm in a Full Tower, but I mounted the H50 Rad in P/P setup first and while it was indeed a pain in my ass to mount the block, it mounted with the pipes at the bottom. The reason it was a pain is that the H50 has plastic tubing or covers that make the tubes stiff. Not sure about the tubes on the H70, but I doubt they'd be stiffer than the H50 tubing.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## ra_27

Does any on have three H50/H60/H70 install at the front of there case to pull fresh cool air in instead the back?

if so are the temp better? I know you need a fan at top of case to help get rid of heat.


----------



## CircuitFreak

condenced into one post


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ra_27*


Does any on have three H50/H60/H70 install at the front of there case to pull fresh cool air in instead the back?

if so are the temp better? I know you need a fan at top of case to help get rid of heat.


You can do it the way circuitfreak said, or you can also buy a coolermaster 4-in-3 device and mod it a bit to do the job. It's really easy and convenient. I can upload pics for you if you want.


----------



## Krusher33

I imagine this is a pretty big debate subject? Yes you're pulling cool air from front but it passes through the radiator and heats up inside the case. Now heating up VRM's and GPU's. Or you install as an exhaust but you're using warm air through the radiator.

But I guess it also depends on the set up. IE GPU exhausts its own air, side fans, top fans, etc.


----------



## zefs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


^^^ Flip that Rad over so the pipes intake and outlet at the bottom. Other than that I don't see anything wrong with your setup.










Does that make any difference? I have mine with the pipes on top and haven't noticed any issues?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


You can do it the way circuitfreak said, or you can also buy a coolermaster 4-in-3 device and mod it a bit to do the job. It's really easy and convenient. I can upload pics for you if you want.


I just now checked that out. That's pretty cool idea. I never seen it before.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krusher33*


I just now checked that out. That's pretty cool idea. I never seen it before.


Yeah. You just take off the grill on the front and remove the drive racks and then put it in backwards and attach the rad to the back of the device. You can attach a fan on the inside of the device to do push/pull.


----------



## seesee

L bracket >> any picture of this elusive L Bracket?


----------



## CircuitFreak

I can post some more Indepth pics when I get home of the "L" bracket and the cutout I made as well , I know at least on my setup the H50 is not the only intake source so to me in my Mid tower , air comes in off of the rad and right out the PSU while the 120mm front intake fan brings in the cold air for the rest of the case.


----------



## vf-

I was reading a while back somewhere in this thread about shrouds. Is there any problems fitting one of these to the H70 radiator?

Thermochill Performance Shroud PS120.1 (15mm)


















One thing that troubles me, what's the best way to mount it. Do I fit absorbent acoustic sticky foam to the shroud so the longer flaps on the side cushion/create a tight fit on the side of the radiator, if you follow me? since either the fan mounts to the shroud or the shroud mounts to the radiator. While the smaller top and bottom fits above the lips of the radiator? as well as the hoses keeps it propped up from the bottom.

Or will this whole thing be jiggling about?

Secondly, do I get one for the exhaust? like say...










To some degree this has intrigued me but I'm not too keen on the clear look apart from able to tell if dust is building up on the fins...


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vf-;13266606*
> To some degree this has intrigued me but I'm not too keen on the clear look apart from able to tell if dust is building up on the fins...


I would feel the same way but if you go back a few pages someone posted a pic of their radiator after removing the fan. Don't know about you but that would certainly change my mind.


----------



## slowman87

Mine's front mounted in my drive bays. I LOVE the setup.


----------



## Ceadderman

Why spend more money on your kit if you don't have to?

If you can mount a fan to your Rad, just hack the internals out of an old fan buy longer bolt and mount it between your push fan and the Rad.

Here are some pics of my setup.

If you want to make an Led setup you can get some prewired 5mm LED strands and add them into a clear fan body with a little hot glue backing and viola you have extra light in your case and you get the shroud too. For less than $10.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## vf-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33;13266733*
> I would feel the same way but if you go back a few pages someone posted a pic of their radiator after removing the fan. Don't know about you but that would certainly change my mind.


Yes, that was funny. Bunny.... shazam.... *poof*

Luckily I don't have that problem. Intakes are filtered with good airflow and the H70 exhausting.

I'm just wondering what would be the best way to mount it as in what screws to use or the rubber fan mounts through the shroud(s).

























Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13266873*
> Why spend more money on your kit if you don't have to?
> 
> If you can mount a fan to your Rad, just hack the internals out of an old fan buy longer bolt and mount it between your push fan and the Rad.
> 
> Here are some pics of my setup.
> 
> If you want to make an Led setup you can get some prewired 5mm LED strands and add them into a clear fan body with a little hot glue backing and viola you have extra light in your case and you get the shroud too. For less than $10.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


No offense but I'm not keen on the look of hacking up 120mm fans that are in still good working order. Plus the fact it feels and looks home made.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ummm okay, do your fans look homemade or something...









I think that it gives an old dusty fan a new lease on life that aids in cooling your system. I use silicon fan gaskets to seal the spot between the rad and the fan and modded four 3inch 6-32 bolts to roughly 2.25" to lock it all down. You don't even notice the "homemade" look.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## CircuitFreak

Ok here is the step by step I posted earlier with pics this time ( previous posts edited as to not double post info)

It takes 3 Cd-Rom bays to do it.
Step 1.
You need to notch out one side of the drive bays ( preferably the the side you wont see through the clear side of your case ) for the non tubing side of the rad to stick out a little as the rad needs just a little bit of help to sit in there. Edge protection around the cut areas is advised so no sharp edges are hitting the tank.










Step 2 & 3
Some foam weather stripping on the bottom of the bays so the rad is not sitting on metal and secure it with an L bracket going from the tank to the drive bay mounts of the intake side of the rad










I used Allthread so I can slide my fans on and off with rubber washers for isolation for noise. I have enough room to fit a 25mm shroud and a 38mm fan and still get my cover on with ease.

Finished product


















My case has mesh drive covers which makes this setup easy for me.

Temps have been cooler then with a V6GT now that my TIM has cured and my video card temps are the same as before as far as I can tell. I also measured the air temps before and after the rad and I see a 7C increase in air temp going through the rad while running prime.


----------



## LinuxHack3r

Attention everyone! I will be joining this club with the week







Just bought the H70 on Newegg with a 15% off code, so even after taxes that was still cheaper than Amazon. However, I have the following question:

Which of the 3 heat transfer compounds would be best for me to use with the H70 and 2600k?

1) The compound that comes with the H70?
2) Arctic Silver 5?
3) XIGMATEK PTI-G4512
(This came with the H70)?


----------



## superhead91

Since everyone is showing their H50/H70s mounted in the drive bays, here's my version. No case modding necessary.


----------



## Krusher33

I'm saying this cause so many have suggested it already, use compound with it. It's good stuff.


----------



## Ceadderman

Shin-Etsu G751 is the best. You can get it from Newegg under the MassCool brand. Or you can get it from performance-pcs.com.









~Ceadder


----------



## ra_27

So it looks like it works well mount at the front.

thanks for the shots.


----------



## lawrencendlw

I had a quick question. I plan on getting a H70 next month and wanted to know what would be the best fans (best as in getting the lowest temps, noise not really an issue... no delta fans lol) for a push/pull config with shrouds? Have you guys used the gentle typhoon AP30's and AP31's? If so how well do they do?

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw*


I had a quick question. I plan on getting a H70 next month and wanted to know what would be the best fans (best as in getting the lowest temps, noise not really an issue... no delta fans lol) for a push/pull config with shrouds? Have you guys used the gentle typhoon AP30's and AP31's? If so how well do they do?

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


Yate-Loons bro. Have solid static pressure and you can get them pretty cheap. I changed my High Speeds out to Medium Speeds with no increase in temps and a nice decrease in decibels. Now I know that my cooler isn't an H70, but the H50 isn't much different in temps.









I also replaced the bottom HS Silent with a Low Speed Silent to help assist the Airflow and keep it positive.









~Ceadder


----------



## calvinbui

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw*


I had a quick question. I plan on getting a H70 next month and wanted to know what would be the best fans


i second this, stuck between GTAP15, GTAP14, Noiseblocker and San Ace. Which is the best in the performance:quietness ratio?


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw;13275136*
> I had a quick question. I plan on getting a H70 next month and wanted to know what would be the best fans (best as in getting the lowest temps, noise not really an issue... no delta fans lol) for a push/pull config with shrouds? Have you guys used the gentle typhoon AP30's and AP31's? If so how well do they do?
> 
> Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
> Nathan


3k Ultra Kazes


----------



## mistax

hrmm my exhaust on my haf932 use to be the rear and the top fans, but ever since i changed it my only exhaust is the top now with the rear side and front being intakes. Should i change the side panel fan to an exhaust now too?

btw how much of an increase in temp drop will i see if i get an ap14 or 15.
Looking to reduce noise and get rid of my stock cooling on 470gtx too.


----------



## CircuitFreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax;13277699*
> hrmm my exhaust on my haf932 use to be the rear and the top fans, but ever since i changed it my only exhaust is the top now with the rear side and front being intakes. Should i change the side panel fan to an exhaust now too?


In my opinion leave the lower rear fan as an intake. It will help push the warm air up and out the exhaust. As a rule of thumb for me, Lower or front fans = intake cold air , Upper or rear fans = exhaust warm air.


----------



## mistax

the rear is not push/pull for my h70 =/


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax;13277699*
> hrmm my exhaust on my haf932 use to be the rear and the top fans, but ever since i changed it my only exhaust is the top now with the rear side and front being intakes. Should i change the side panel fan to an exhaust now too?
> 
> btw how much of an increase in temp drop will i see if i get an ap14 or 15.
> Looking to reduce noise and get rid of my stock cooling on 470gtx too.


I have mine set up like so...

Rear fan is Exhaust Top Fan is Exhaust and P/P is up top in Exhaust. Bottom fan is Intake. I've even taped off the HDD bay slots because the dust was being sucked unfiltered through them.









If you mount your H70 up top be prepared to lose the top 3 Bays if you add an old fan as a shroud to your P/P setup. Which I would fully recommend.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *calvinbui;13275875*
> i second this, stuck between GTAP15, GTAP14, Noiseblocker and San Ace. Which is the best in the performance:quietness ratio?


Akasa Vipers have better performance than the GT AP-15s, with a similar noise profile. Similar performance to the Yate Loons, with better noise and longer MTBF.


----------



## eskamobob1

Does anybody have the before and after temps of lapping their h70? I have been debating it but I would like to know what kind of temp differences I can expect first


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*


Does anybody have the before and after temps of lapping their h70? I have been debating it but I would like to know what kind of temp differences I can expect first


I don't have specific before/after for just the lapping; but I can guess fairly close. When I modded my H70, I saw about a 10-12C drop in temp. That includes both the lapping and the fans. Since the upgrade fan specs are fairly similar to the stock fans, except for noise; I'm estimating that most of that drop is the result of lapping -- at least a good 8C worth of it.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t;13215985*
> I decided to try running my H50 as a rear intake a month or two ago and decided that today I wanted to mount my new Yate loon high speed fans on it as rear exhaust. Much to my surprise this is what I found after running it as an intake for a month or two
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While my temps did go down using it as an intake at first. I did notice my core temps over the last week or so of gaming were a few degrees higher than they usually were with the fans as an intake. I can't imagine why
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets just say I won't be using the H50 as an intake ever again. Not only did it make my H50 filthy and lose the performance benefit of intake it also increased my gpu temps buy roughly 5C while gaming.


Wow it looks like something got sucked in there. I have mine as a p/p rear intake with the same Yate Loon High Speeds but even after 4-5 months of not cleaning the rad, I barely had any dust blocking the fins. I don't even use any filters.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1;13280428*
> Does anybody have the before and after temps of lapping their h70? I have been debating it but I would like to know what kind of temp differences I can expect first


Don't expect much, though you will most likely see a 1-4°C difference depending on your ambient temps, your pc/rad setup, and how well your lapping job was.


----------



## eskamobob1

ok... about what i expected... i will try to see how high i can get using 2 190CFM fans first, but i may lap both the h70 and my cpu just for Ss&Gs... and going any higher than like 3k grit paper wouldn't lower temps enough to notice, right? because i have everything from 600 to 4k, but i really don't want to go that high if i can help it

EDIT: just found a pack that has 4,6,8,10, and 12k grit paper on my workbench, but i _really_ dont want to go that high


----------



## Jen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;13246399*
> Yes and if your up for it and you dont have to rma it , give it a light sand with some fine grit sand paper to even out the surface on the block .. it will give you better temps and the thermal compound will transfer heat more accuratly into the block .


finally have pc working again , had to replace powersupply and other items before i could rotate the h70 . well unfortunately the noise remains of the pump which is loudest part of this system. so i guess a rma is next and i will be back on to air inbetween

Jen


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1;13283844*
> ok... about what i expected... i will try to see how high i can get using 2 190CFM fans first, but i may lap both the h70 and my cpu just for Ss&Gs... and going any higher than like 3k grit paper wouldn't lower temps enough to notice, right? because i have everything from 600 to 4k, but i really don't want to go that high if i can help it
> 
> EDIT: just found a pack that has 4,6,8,10, and 12k grit paper on my workbench, but i _really_ dont want to go that high


The closest you can get to a truly flat mirror finish, the higher your temp drop is going to be. And despite the previous comment, you're likely to see a substantial drop, since the H70 cold plate surface is significantly concave as well as rough. There is a lot of TIM between the surface and your CPU; just removing about half of it would show a few degrees drop.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luchog;13284570*
> The closest you can get to a truly flat mirror finish, the higher your temp drop is going to be. And despite the previous comment, you're likely to see a substantial drop, since the H70 cold plate surface is significantly concave as well as rough. There is a lot of TIM between the surface and your CPU; just removing about half of it would show a few degrees drop.


I'm just going with my experience with my H50, but since you have the H70 and done the lapping yourself, it's better that eskamobob1 listen to your advice.

I lapped mine in this order: 400>500>600>700>800>1600>2000 and I only saw maybe a 2-3°C change in load temps.


----------



## _REAPER_

yeah I am not going to use mine as a rear intake anymore good lord


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin;13285711*
> I'm just going with my experience with my H50, but since you have the H70 and done the lapping yourself, it's better that eskamobob1 listen to your advice.
> 
> I lapped mine in this order: 400>500>600>700>800>1600>2000 and I only saw maybe a 2-3°C change in load temps.


I was gunna use the same method but start at 600 and end with 1.5k>2k>2.5k>3k... I can continue on to 3.5k>4k>6k>8k>10k>12k>20k, but I would imagine that going over 3k grit would not show any noticeable results... Am I wrong in that?


----------



## Evil Penguin

Sorry for the crap pic...









Should I have the H70 as intake or exhaust (currently exhaust).
I have a feeling with all the other exhaust fans it's fighting for air.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin;13287892*
> Sorry for the crap pic...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should I have the H70 as intake or exhaust (currently exhaust).
> I have a feeling with all the other exhaust fans it's fighting for air.


Mount your H70 up top in one of the 120 slots and run it as exhaust. Warm air rises but if you put it directly behind the 5.25 bays you'll see more cool air than warm since it will be away from the heat sources. Where it's at right now you're taking in more warm air than cool. But if you were to make it an intake in the same spot you'd be sucking in the Exhaust of your GPUs' which is even worse.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Evil Penguin

I've had it mounted on top before.
Not an option with sleeve bearing fans that I use specifically on the H70.

My concern is that there may be too much negative air pressure.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jen;13245315*
> here is picture , excuse the mess as i havent finished this case and waiting for a powersupply.


I basically have mine mounted the same way and I have had no problems with it at all. If your pump is making noise, personally I would contact the merchant or Corsair for an RMA.


----------



## Kokin

Anyone know how CoolerMaster's Blademasters (3.9mm H20, I somehow doubt it's this high) compare to Yate Loon Highs(2.99mm H20)/Akasa Vipers (2.98mm H20)?

I think that the 2150 RPM GTs are at about 2.87mm H20 [0.113inches * 25.4mm/inch = 2.87mm], so do these 2150RPM GTs perform similarly to the Yate Loon High Speeds and Akasa Vipers?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1;13287832*
> I was gunna use the same method but start at 600 and end with 1.5k>2k>2.5k>3k... I can continue on to 3.5k>4k>6k>8k>10k>12k>20k, but I would imagine that going over 3k grit would not show any noticeable results... Am I wrong in that?


Pretty much, some people end it at 800 grit, others end it at 2000 grit. All personal opinion. I say go for the highest that you currently have and see how satisfied you are at the end.


----------



## lawrencendlw

Do you know what the rated static pressure of the new gentle typhoon 5400 rpm (AP-31's) are? Hopefully they're at a better pitch than the ultra kaze 3k are. I'm gonna get a couple for my H70 and when I go full WC (if they're not unbearable ) then ill do my whole setup with them in push/pull.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## sam0329

My Corsair H70 is doing way better than my Noctua D14 in my Corsair 800D. I have 3 x 120mm top fans and tried both intake and exhaust and the temp is closer to the H70 when I set the top fans to intake but still cannot match the H70.

H70 idle: ~ 29
D14 idle: ~ 34

I have a i7 970 3.2 and oc to 3.8

I brought the D14 base on all the reviews but in real life situation it seems to be a different story


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sam0329;13290838*
> 
> My Corsair H70 is doing way better than my Noctua D14 in my Corsair 800D. I have 3 x 120mm top fans and tried both intake and exhaust and the temp is closer to the H70 when I set the top fans to intake but still cannot match the H70.
> 
> H70 idle: ~ 29
> D14 idle: ~ 34
> 
> I have a i7 970 3.2 and oc to 3.8
> 
> I brought the D14 base on all the reviews but in real life situation it seems to be a different story


What is your vcore on your 970 right now my idle temps on my 980x are around 30-32C but it is pretty warm in the house right now


----------



## EdSpfld73

Hello everyone I'm new to this site, hope to learn from others here and help where I can .



























http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/612436-corsair-h50-hydro-series-owners-club.html#post7690988







: : The Official Corsair H50/H70 Hydro Series Club : :


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EdSpfld73;13292481*
> Hello everyone I'm new to this site, hope to learn from others here and help where I can .


Welcome to OCN! Just a tip, if you want the H50/H70 club banner in your sig, go to Quick Links->Edit Signature, and then put it there. You've currently just posted it in your post.


----------



## Mergatroid

Hey everyone, I didn't realize that Corsair was offering a five year warranty with the H60.

That's fantastic. What a great deal for a great cooler.

http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/PID-MX32715%28ME%29.aspx?cc=1


----------



## ra_27

five year warranty with the H60 is great. I'll have to see what H70 is.

I the longer warranty the better.

Mergatroid love the 600t case that what I got just one thing do you OC the CPU or is stock speed? and was it hard to mount the H70 that way?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ra_27;13296501*
> five year warranty with the H60 is great. I'll have to see what H70 is.
> 
> I the longer warranty the better.
> 
> Mergatroid love the 600t case that what I got just one thing do you OC the CPU or is stock speed? and was it hard to mount the H70 that way?


Hey

Yeah, I do a minor o/c on my core 2 quad. It's 2.5GHz and I'm o/c to 3.3GHz. i7 or a new AMD this fall I hope, but will still use the same cooler.

I had to drill new mounting holes to mount the H70 this way. I had to offset the mount to the left in order to avoid my RAM. Here is an older picture of the fans at the top before I reversed them to exhaust. The only reason I did it like this is so it wouldn't be the same as everyone else's builds.

I should point out though that I really like that H60. Looks sweet and apparently works well too. If I was going to purchase a new cooler just to handle this minor o/c now I might chose the H60, especially with the 5 year warranty. Way to go Corsair.










If no one minds, I'll stick another pic of the system with the window installed, just because I can (sorry):


----------



## Fuddy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin*


Sorry for the crap pic...









Should I have the H70 as intake or exhaust (currently exhaust).
I have a feeling with all the other exhaust fans it's fighting for air.










I get lower temps running mine as an intake... I also put a foam filter before it so I won't get any dust in my case


----------



## lawrencendlw

I haven't seen any comparisons for the H60 with different fans. I think I'm going to buy one and do it myself. I'm going to get 2 Ultra kaze 3l's and 2 gentle typhoon AP-31's and I have 2 Yate loon high speed and Cooler master R4's. So I can do a 4 way round up on it and test it over stock. I'll take pictures, and try to make charts to review them. I'll make my own thread for it and link it here. It'll probably be over the next month or so.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## rusky1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rusky1*


Question about my push/pull setup on an H50. The R4's that I are in my setup have perforated cages, as in the cages have holes in them. Would it be better me to use some tape to block those holes so that I have more pressure?

I'm sure that CM built these with a purpose, I'm just unsure whether they're helping me in my situation or not.

Thanks!


Anyone?


----------



## lawrencendlw

Actually, those fans are designed that way. I think that if you cover those holes, you'll actually see a decline in performance. I think those holes allow the fans to draw more air in from them giving them higher static pressure and CFM at lower rpm's than would otherwise be possible without them. The only real way of testing that would be to do a controlled test.

Take temp readings (including your ambient temp if you can) while running prime95. Take readings at the 5,10,15,20,25, and 30 minute marks. Then cover the holes again and do it again and compare the results. Also try to keep your ambient temperature (both in your room and inside your case if you can) at a constant level so that you know that the difference (if any difference of course) in readings is because of you covering the holes. Good luck and document the process so gi can post it step by step here (with pictures if possible) so that others can benefit from your study. Let me know if you need help with it and I would be more than happy to help in any way possible.

Also, if you guys have any fans that you would like to see in my comparison study of the H60 with several fans in a push/pull setup, then please let me know and I'll try to get some. If you happen to have the fans and wouldn't mind leaning them to me for the study then that would be great as some of these fans are hard to track down and to be honest, too Damm expensive for me to buy 2 of each model just to do a comparison and then just not use them anymore. I mean people could post the results of there fans on there H50/60/70 on their CPU in there case but there is no way to control that. So what I hope to achieve is to do a test within a controlled setting by conducting these tests on the same CPU using the exact same cooler in the exact same case and ambient temperature. Also to make this test that much more thorough, I'd like to also ask you guys if you had a couple other things that you could perhaps loan me (and of course if they are damaged at all during my study then I will of course replace them. I'll need a decibel meter and I'd also like to see if any of you had a stock (not lapped or modified in any way) H50 and a H70 to loan so I could do a more extensive test. By doing these tests with all of the above mentioned items I hope to prove a few things. Firstly, out of the Corsair H50/60/70's, which is the best at cooling. Second off, which are the best fans (the fans that get the lowest average temps) to use with the Corsair H50/60/70. And lastly, which fans cool the best while being moderately silent.

I will make a separate threat in the cooling section about this so that I can try and find the items needed from a larger pool of people but I figured the best place to start looking is in the Corsair H50/70 (is the H60 not going to added to this club?) Club thread. Please let me know what you think about my idea here and if you have anything to add or any comments on how I can make this study better. I am also one of the Bloggers over at techREACTION.com so I will be posting a step by step (with pictures) review of my findings there to which I will like here. Thanks for taking the time to read my novel here guys.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fuddy*


I get lower temps running mine as an intake... I also put a foam filter before it so I won't get any dust in my case











That's pretty smart building your GPU loop before building the rest.









~Ceadder


----------



## lawrencendlw

Is that one of the XSPC "Complete kits" that they sell at Performance-PCs.com (among other places)? Those are surprisingly cheap for all that you get. If it is one of them then does it come with everything that you need to completely cool your CPU? I want to get one of the 360mm Rad ones and then add a second larger rad (like a 480mm or if they have a 600mm Rad (Which I believe I saw one but I might have been mistaken) then one of those) to hang out the back of my HAF X.

I made a dedicated thread (Complete with a poll) for the above said study so that I don't take up any more space on here with it. Please head on over and take a look and also if you could answer some of the questions asked in there that would be great too guys. Here's a link to the thread: Corsair H50/H60/H70 and Fans extensive Study


----------



## Nutty Pumpkin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ctrl+Alt+Del*


well im in...riiight?

*Idle @ 72*F
full Load @ 105*F*











Whaaaaattt??? Id love to know how you did that!


----------



## Ceadderman

What, the 22c/41c temps? Or the H50 mod?

The H50 mod is easy so long as you have the proper size tubing and an extra Radiator.









~Ceadder


----------



## HeWhoDared

Hey guys, I just had a quick question..

I know this is the H50/H70 club; but i've seen some discussion regarding the H60, so I figured i would just ask here instead of making a thread, but I've heard with the H60; the screws included to mount everything weren't threaded correctly, does anyone know if they addressed this problem and fixed it with the newer SKUs?

Thanks in advance


----------



## Nutty Pumpkin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


What, the 22c/41c temps? Or the H50 mod?

The H50 mod is easy so long as you have the proper size tubing and an extra Radiator.









~Ceadder










The mod! Does it have a res? I did one for a mate using a Micro Res and 1/4 tubing.

But thats a step up.

Edit:If it has a Res, no need to explain how its done.


----------



## Fuddy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw*


Is that one of the XSPC "Complete kits" that they sell at Performance-PCs.com (among other places)? Those are surprisingly cheap for all that you get. If it is one of them then does it come with everything that you need to completely cool your CPU? I want to get one of the 360mm Rad ones and then add a second larger rad (like a 480mm or if they have a 600mm Rad (Which I believe I saw one but I might have been mistaken) then one of those) to hang out the back of my HAF X.

I made a dedicated thread (Complete with a poll) for the above said study so that I don't take up any more space on here with it. Please head on over and take a look and also if you could answer some of the questions asked in there that would be great too guys. Here's a link to the thread: Corsair H50/H60/H70 and Fans extensive Study


Yeah, it's the rasa 360 kit, I still have the cpu block sitting in a box, I figure when I redo the loop i'll add the cpu block. I already had the h70 before I bought the kit and didn't want to bother removing it, it's working great.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nutty Pumpkin*


The mod! Does it have a res? I did one for a mate using a Micro Res and 1/4 tubing.

But thats a step up.

Edit:If it has a Res, no need to explain how its done.


From what I can see there is no Res. Just a straight forward loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HeWhoDared*


Hey guys, I just had a quick question..

I know this is the H50/H70 club; but i've seen some discussion regarding the H60, so I figured i would just ask here instead of making a thread, but I've heard with the H60; the screws included to mount everything weren't threaded correctly, does anyone know if they addressed this problem and fixed it with the newer SKUs?

Thanks in advance










This club is for the H60 too, OP just disappeared so no one can change the title. As for the screws, I'm not sure.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuddy;13300065*
> I get lower temps running mine as an intake... I also put a foam filter before it so I won't get any dust in my case


If its not too much bother, I'd really love to see the rest of your setup, like from the angle shooting towards the drive bays...where you have the pump and res located. I'm guessing you're running a single 360 kit for the 2 gpus right now? Do you intend on adding the cpu block to the existing loop, IE, running all 3 components off the single rasa360?


----------



## Fuddy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve;13307628*
> If its not too much bother, I'd really love to see the rest of your setup, like from the angle shooting towards the drive bays...where you have the pump and res located. I'm guessing you're running a single 360 kit for the 2 gpus right now? Do you intend on adding the cpu block to the existing loop, IE, running all 3 components off the single rasa360?


I have the cpu block and I'm gonna put it in when I redo the loop. It'll most likely be in a couple of months.. the tubes are turning yellow and it looks nasty.

This is the front of the case showing the res and fan controller










back of the res, you can see here how the tubes are changing.










and the intake filter I have over the H70... keeps dust off the rad and is easier to clean


----------



## virus_on_web

I finaly had time to take the cooler off and reseat it and do some testing. Temps are the same. The vents run now at 1050-1100 rpm as exhaust. The difference between 1100 and 2000rpm are 2-3degrees C and a lot of noice. Allso no difference if it is set as intake or exhaust. the pump runs arround 1400rpm. Thermal paste used is the stock one that came whith the hyper 212+.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey Fuddy, I think it's time for some Cable Management to take place in your system.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Fuddy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13309451*
> Hey Fuddy, I think it's time for some Cable Management to take place in your system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


lol, those are all from the fans


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fuddy*


lol, those are all from the fans


 Hence the wink. I've got to sleeve my Controller cables and cable manage them as well. No excuses though hop to it.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fuddy*


and the intake filter I have over the H70... keeps dust off the rad and is easier to clean











How well do those foam-type filters work? I see a bunch of them for $2 shipped in ebay and I was curious to try it out since I also have a rear intake setup and I have no filter for that.

Do they block a lot of airflow and did you remove the fan grill for your rear fan port?


----------



## Fuddy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


How well do those foam-type filters work? I see a bunch of them for $2 shipped in ebay and I was curious to try it out since I also have a rear intake setup and I have no filter for that.

Do they block a lot of airflow and did you remove the fan grill for your rear fan port?


I picked them up dirt cheap at microcenter, to me they work great, I clean them out every 2 weeks or so... I don't know about blocking airflow since I keep my fans at about 1000rpm all the time anyway.


----------



## Kokin

I guess I'll try one out, I keep mine at around 1k RPM as well.


----------



## nerdybeat

So here's my plans for my new case that just arrived a couple days ago. I am finishing up with sleeving my fans and random other things, so I will be transferring my sig rig in tomorrow. Any feedback is welcome.










I currently have my H70 in p/p exhaust in my 902, however I picked up a 120mm dust filter in case I wanted to try intake on the back. I feel like the top GTs will suck out a lot of the hot air, and all the Crossfire heat wont be sucked in through the rad on my H70.


----------



## Krusher33

I like it but I'm no guru. I'm waiting for someone else to reply to that.

However, what about the PSU? Is it intaking its own air from bottom of case or flipped the other way?


----------



## nerdybeat

Intaking from the bottom filtered vent and exhausted out the back. However my PSU is great with fan control, and only turns on when on high load (gaming with CF enabled, etc.)


----------



## Ceadderman

Actually you don't want to Intake at the back there because you want to expel as much of the heat that you can get out of your system. While it looks good it's not because those XFire'd cards will be dumping more heat out the back than the top. Your Intake at the Rear will be drawing that warm air right back into the system.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kokin

It really depends on the design of your crossfired cards:

1)If they are the type to dispel heat towards the back, like "blower types", then rear intake isn't as effective, except for when you have some direct form of cold air like the rear of your case is right next to a window.

2)If they are the kind to expel heat inside your case, like MSI's Twin Frozr cards, than rear intake is doable even without cold air.


----------



## breakthesilence13

what is the size of the radiator on the h70? and will it fit in a cooler master elite 310 case? sorry if this has been answered somewhere


----------



## Jen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*


I basically have mine mounted the same way and I have had no problems with it at all. If your pump is making noise, personally I would contact the merchant or Corsair for an RMA.











rma it will be , just placed in a h50 corsair and no noise from it with same position as this one was. at least i can sleep now and its actually cooling as well as the h70 so definitly something wrong with the h70

Jen


----------



## CircuitFreak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nerdybeat*


So here's my plans for my new case that just arrived a couple days ago. I am finishing up with sleeving my fans and random other things, so I will be transferring my sig rig in tomorrow. Any feedback is welcome.










I currently have my H70 in p/p exhaust in my 902, however I picked up a 120mm dust filter in case I wanted to try intake on the back. I feel like the top GTs will suck out a lot of the hot air, and all the Crossfire heat wont be sucked in through the rad on my H70.


+1 to Ceadderman and Kokin

You would probably be OK with it as an exhaust especially if you get a drive bay 120mm intake setup going.

Correct me if I'm wrong but mounting the rad at the front top exhaust spot especially if you have a front drive bay intake would be your best bet.

Does anyone know if they make the type of shroud that usually comes on the side door of cases that funnels air to the stock CPU coolers in 120mm?


----------



## EdSpfld73




----------



## Ceadderman

Hooboy I think someone needs to start a reality show and call it "Cable Management".









~Ceadder


----------



## BradleyW

Can someone give me advice on the best mounting area's for the H50 Rad in my HAF-x such as the front of it? I've heard it can be done but am not sure how?


----------



## EdSpfld73

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Hooboy I think someone needs to start a reality show and call it "Cable Management".









~Ceadder










I have extension cables on order lol just couldn't wait.


----------



## lawrencendlw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW;13333718*
> Can someone give me advice on the best mounting area's for the H50 Rad in my HAF-x such as the front of it? I've heard it can be done but am not sure how?


It's very simple. Get some zip ties and tie it into the 5.25" bays. I have a fan there but same principle. I'll try to take a few pics and post them for you later when I can.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw;13336154*
> It's very simple. Get some zip ties and tie it into the 5.25" bays. I have a fan there but same principle. I'll try to take a few pics and post them for you later when I can.


It's ok i have decided to sell my H50.


----------



## raizooor3

I think I might try this Cooler. Comes in 180mm or 140mm.


----------



## kiwiasian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW;13336196*
> It's ok i have decided to sell my H50.


What the,
You posted that 4 hours ago and you're deciding to sell it already?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kiwiasian;13336438*
> What the,
> You posted that 4 hours ago and you're deciding to sell it already?


Some people don't have the patience. I can commiserate with the guy. I don't have much in the way of patience either. Still I don't think I would sell it. I might run the stocker until I had all the answers I seek and then if the answers don't fit I would look into selling.









Nice Cool-It systems above his post tho. A 180?!!! How do you mount that in my 932 on a 120 mount?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## RonB94GT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuddy;13308766*
> I have the cpu block and I'm gonna put it in when I redo the loop. It'll most likely be in a couple of months.. the tubes are turning yellow and it looks nasty.
> 
> This is the front of the case showing the res and fan controller
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> back of the res, you can see here how the tubes are changing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and the intake filter I have over the H70... keeps dust off the rad and is easier to clean


Hows the Scythe working out. Did it look like their is any possible way to make the display red?


----------



## CircuitFreak

that display look like a vacuum one and i dont think you can mod those


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CircuitFreak;13325225*
> +1 to Ceadderman and Kokin
> 
> You would probably be OK with it as an exhaust especially if you get a drive bay 120mm intake setup going.
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong but mounting the rad at the front top exhaust spot especially if you have a front drive bay intake would be your best bet.
> 
> Does anyone know if they make the type of shroud that usually comes on the side door of cases that funnels air to the stock CPU coolers in 120mm?


That's a sweet looking case. Same layout as the 600T. Can't wait to see your finished build!


----------



## CircuitFreak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*


That's a sweet looking case. Same layout as the 600T. Can't wait to see your finished build!


That was Nerdybeat's case not my own. Mine is back a few pages.


----------



## ra_27

RonB94GT how long did it take to build?

It looks sweat!


----------



## RonB94GT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CircuitFreak*


that display look like a vacuum one and i dont think you can mod those


Thanks guess I will have to wait till I can get a Lamptron.


----------



## RonB94GT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ra_27*


RonB94GT how long did it take to build?

It looks sweat!


?? I don't have any pics in this thread. I just got a XSPC Rasa and selling the H50 and was just browsing.


----------



## ra_27

ok


----------



## ra_27

Sorry RonB94GT, that was meat for Fuddy.

So why sell what you going for now RonB94GT if you selling your H50?

you going to get a H60/H70 or go with something else?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ra_27*


Sorry RonB94GT, that was meat for Fuddy.

So why sell what you going for now RonB94GT if you selling your H50?

you going to get a H60/H70 or go with something else?


Ron has XSPC Rasa.









~Ceadder


----------



## RonB94GT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ra_27*


Sorry RonB94GT, that was meat for Fuddy.

So why sell what you going for now RonB94GT if you selling your H50?

you going to get a H60/H70 or go with something else?


Just upgrading and was bored. LOL already installed.http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11..._Hot_Item.html


----------



## ra_27

Thanks I have a look now!

I have to say I was thinking as this is my first step into water cooling of doing a all in one but at that cost i may have to re think that!.


----------



## BradleyW

Hey guy's what's the best way of removing the H50 backplate?


----------



## _REAPER_

Ok so I got bored and thought I would experiment with some things.. I have a HAFX and have put all the fans blowing inside the case except for the rear exhaust fan which has my H70 on it.

So far I have had better temps by about 2C which is not alot but it is better than having my fans with exhaust on the top as well. I will keep changing things around and keep you guys updated.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BradleyW*


Hey guy's what's the best way of removing the H50 backplate?


Best way is not to remove it. But if your mind is made up then you need to cut the side of the tape closest to the backing plate. Then you should be able to peel off the remainder of the tape by hand. It's a painfully slow process but there really is no other way to go about it.









Honestly if it's a mounting issue, then I wouldn't remove the H50. It's a damn good cooler. I was running 45c under load at 4Ghz on my lapped CPU when I was running 4Ghz the other day. My average Idle temp is 30c at Stock. Average Idle temp at 4Ghz is 35c. I love my H50. I couldn't wring better out of a DH14 or a Megahelms if I tried. The H50 is just THAT good.









~Ceadder


----------



## RonB94GT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ra_27*


Thanks I have a look now!

I have to say I was thinking as this is my first step into water cooling of doing a all in one but at that cost i may have to re think that!.


For the price you might as well. You can always add rads and GPU blocks. Honestly I never saw myself wanting to go the full WC rout but wound up doing it.


----------



## smorg

sorry for crappy pic..

no hd bays.. airflow FTW


----------



## Krusher33

nice!


----------



## FreekyGTi

Hello all...brand new member to Overclock.net









So im about to refresh my build with almost all new parts and one of the parts ill be getting is an H60...but i have a question that ive never really found a 100% straight answer to

I own a CM Storm Scout with all the stock fans for now along with 2 CM R4's in the side window...but in the coming weeks ill be adding an i5-2500k, Asus P8P67 and 2x4gb G.skill sniper ram along with the H60

now i plan on doing a push/pull with the H60 but im not sure what to do with the rest of the fans in the case and if i should do exhaust or intake for the radiator

as it stands right now i have a front 140mm intake,120mm rear exhaust(where i plan to mount the H60), 140mm top exhaust and 2 120mm R4's set as intake on the side panel

also just to let ya know...i also have a noctua NF-P14 FLX 140mm and 2 CM black 140mm fans just sitting in a drawer right now as im not sure where they are going to go or what im going to do with all these fans

so anyways if someone could point me in the right direction or give me some advice i would be forever appreciative of it

thanks all and sorry for the ramble


----------



## AverageGai

Hi guys, will the H70 fit on a Gigabyte P67 UD4 board?

BTW, how much of a difference will I noticed between the H50 and H70.

This is for my new build, by the way.

Thanks!


----------



## eskamobob1

not too much at idle, but ur load temps should be a decent bit lower... also, with different fans, your temps drop a lot


----------



## AverageGai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1;13346638*
> not too much at idle, but ur load temps should be a decent bit lower... also, with different fans, your temps drop a lot


That's good.

Btw, do you know if it'll fit into the NZXT Phantom case?

I'm hearing from some people that the radiator is hitting the top exhaust fan if I mount it on the rear exhaust area.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13345677*
> Best way is not to remove it. But if your mind is made up then you need to cut the side of the tape closest to the backing plate. Then you should be able to peel off the remainder of the tape by hand. It's a painfully slow process but there really is no other way to go about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly if it's a mounting issue, then I wouldn't remove the H50. It's a damn good cooler. I was running 45c under load at 4Ghz on my lapped CPU when I was running 4Ghz the other day. My average Idle temp is 30c at Stock. Average Idle temp at 4Ghz is 35c. I love my H50. I couldn't wring better out of a DH14 or a Megahelms if I tried. The H50 is just THAT good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I've sold it so i need to remove it







Someone said use hair dryer and a credit card. Job done!


----------



## Anthraxinsoup

Added myself.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AverageGai;13346753*
> That's good.
> 
> Btw, do you know if it'll fit into the NZXT Phantom case?
> 
> I'm hearing from some people that the radiator is hitting the top exhaust fan if I mount it on the rear exhaust area.


its certainly a possibility... i honestly dont know... i have heard both that a 120mm rad fits and that one doesnt


----------



## Stef42

Corsair H60 shipping today







can't wait.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13345677*
> Best way is not to remove it. But if your mind is made up then you need to cut the side of the tape closest to the backing plate. Then you should be able to peel off the remainder of the tape by hand. It's a painfully slow process but there really is no other way to go about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly if it's a mounting issue, then I wouldn't remove the H50. It's a damn good cooler. I was running 45c under load at 4Ghz on my lapped CPU when I was running 4Ghz the other day. My average Idle temp is 30c at Stock. Average Idle temp at 4Ghz is 35c. *I love my H50. I couldn't wring better out of a DH14 or a Megahelms if I tried. The H50 is just THAT good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> * ~Ceadder:drink:


You sir are awsome , i agree with you .

Iv had so many arguments about this with d14 , silver arrow owners .. with my h50 i get 29c idle @ 4.2ghz , 1.4v on my i7 870 with HT on .. full load i get 65c-68c max .

No aircooler i know of can do this , people seem to be hating on these hydro coolers but its doesnt matter .. its people like you and me that know what the h50 is really capable of .

+rep


----------



## EdSpfld73

Welcome to OC.


----------



## Swift Castiel

Is there gonna be a H60 part of this club?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swift Castiel;13359353*
> Is there gonna be a H60 part of this club?


Just add yourself and imagine that H60's are part of this club as well which is what I'm about to do cause mine just arrived. WOOT!


----------



## Swift Castiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33;13359406*
> Just add yourself and imagine that H60's are part of this club as well which is what I'm about to do cause mine just arrived. WOOT!


Mine's arriving either today or tomorrow!


----------



## FreekyGTi

Ill be getting mine here shortly as well...it was ordered lastnight...im excited as hell except i gotta wait for my RMAs to clear before i can actually buy a new psu and install all my parts

on topic though...i posted this post the other night but it may have been overlooked being it was the last post on page like 7762 lol...so if someone could give it a look for me

http://www.overclock.net/13346061-post17640.html


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreekyGTi;13346061*
> Hello all...brand new member to Overclock.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So im about to refresh my build with almost all new parts and one of the parts ill be getting is an H60...but i have a question that ive never really found a 100% straight answer to
> 
> I own a CM Storm Scout with all the stock fans for now along with 2 CM R4's in the side window...but in the coming weeks ill be adding an i5-2500k, Asus P8P67 and 2x4gb G.skill sniper ram along with the H60
> 
> now i plan on doing a push/pull with the H60 but im not sure what to do with the rest of the fans in the case and if i should do exhaust or intake for the radiator
> 
> as it stands right now i have a front 140mm intake,120mm rear exhaust(where i plan to mount the H60), 140mm top exhaust and 2 120mm R4's set as intake on the side panel
> 
> also just to let ya know...i also have a noctua NF-P14 FLX 140mm and 2 CM black 140mm fans just sitting in a drawer right now as im not sure where they are going to go or what im going to do with all these fans
> 
> so anyways if someone could point me in the right direction or give me some advice i would be forever appreciative of it
> 
> thanks all and sorry for the ramble


I'd say leave as you got it. Intake from front for cool air. Exhaust warm air out back and top. Side panel fans should blow in to blow on video card(s) as well on to the motherboard's VRM's and Mosfets.

Edit: It's actually how I'm going to do mine.


----------



## FreekyGTi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33;13359780*
> I'd say leave as you got it. Intake from front for cool air. Exhaust warm air out back and top. Side panel fans should blow in to blow on video card(s) as well on to the motherboard's VRM's and Mosfets.
> 
> Edit: It's actually how I'm going to do mine.


awesome thanks for the reply...i planned on trying the H60 push/pull system as both intake and exhaust but i really wanted to ask here what most people thought of just leaving it as exhaust...i know the OP states that some people saw improvements with it being exhaust


----------



## Krusher33

Honestly I think if there IS a difference, it's 1-2 degrees when you have that much airflow in your case.


----------



## vf-

What will these be like on the H70? currently ordered a set as I'm replacing all my fans for PWM fans. I'm sick of the noise from my sharkoons on the H70, even at 1300rpm plus they ain't PWM.

Phobya Nano 2G 12 PWM Silent 1500rpm Red LED

Quote:



The consortium of manufacturers' Phobya "it has achieved through optimum alignment of the blades that increased air flow does not necessarily lead to higher noise levels. The rotor blades are curved in combination with the wedge-shaped alignment of the camp to show the context, the future starts here! The camp, which was equipped with the latest Nano Technology combines sash and frame to a minimum point, the drive through coils, ensures that this is almost noiseless, silent fans know what really appreciated. By increasing the speed, here was an air flow rate reached it's so rare!

At a speed of 1500rpm and the latest fan is audible. Therefore, this fan has been designed so that even he has to make do with less tension good. For a start voltage range from 7-12V, this fan will be quieter than a gnat, yet the system is still held by a strong air current is very cool!

The look is another point which takes in addition to functionality, a high weighting. Red, and very "New", combined with elegant black blades with a classic black frame, in a completely polished look, creating an eye-catcher in the system where each user can say to himself: This fan is a good choice! When the PWM version, the PhobyalÃ¼fter are mounted in each corner small red LED's what the design even further Accompanied taste.

To clean the fan, the entire rotor can, by slightly, from the frame and engine are removed. To clean is carried out smoothly. Just hold it under running water and rinse the dust. After a short drying period, the cooler by gently squeezing in the original state are returned to the fan and you can start work again.

Technical details:
Dimensions: 120 x 120 x 25mm
Colors: black frame, red and very "new" black blades with red LED's
Weight: 145g
Rated Voltage: 12V
Start Voltage: 7 Volts
Power consumption: 0.45 A
Rated speed: 600-1500rpm (+ / -10%)
Airflow: max. 109.33 CFM / 64.16 CFM
Volume: 10-25 dB / A
MTBF (25 Â° C): 100000 hrs
Connector: PWM / 4 pin fan connector
Max Static Pressure: 1.6mm-H2O

Delivery:
1x Phobya Nano 2G 12 PWM Silent 1500rpm Red LED Double Blade (120x120x25mm)
4x fan screws


I've also went with for the case fans:

Quote:



*Nexus PWM Real Silent Case Fan 2000rpm 120*

Powerful yet silent, optically appealing but not too squiggly. These are the qualities that speak for fans from Nexus! Since the year 2000 this Netherlands-based company works to furthermore improve the cooling of PC systems whilst reducing noise emissions. Another step up was once again achieved with the Real Silent Case Fan. The manufacturer boldly speaks of the ''World's quietest fan'' - and the technical details speak for this claim!

The low starting voltage allows this fan to safely operate even at extremely low speeds, reducing Airflow and especially lowering the noise level making it almost inaudible.

The fan is shipped with adequate accessories for a true silent fan: 4 vibration absorbers for installation in the case! The power connector of the fan is designed for a 4-Pin PWM socket.

This fan is completely transparent and is equipped with 4x5mm LED holes. This allows ultimate versatility when adapting the fan to the lighting concept of the PC. Customers who wish to shine a special light on their system will find the ultimate solution in this fan.

Technical details:
Dimensions : 120x120x25mm
Colour: Transparent without LEDs (can be installed, must be ordered separately)
Nominal voltage: 12 V
Starting voltage: 6,5V
Power consumption : 1,8W
Current draw: 0.30A
Nominal speed : 500-2000 rpm (+/- 10%)
Airflow : 76CFM
Noise level: 15,5 dB/A
Weight: 123g
Connector : PWM 4-Pin connector

Extent of delivery:
1 Fan
4 Vibration absorber



...and two 140 for the roof.

Quote:



*DeepCool UF Fan 140 *

With the UF series fans, Deepcool offers innovative technology fans with a new two-component material mix.

The main component of the fan is conventionally made from high-quality sturdy plastic to ensure the necessary rigidity.
The design of the fan frame is more unusual, being made from soft TPE material it ensures maximum vibration decoupling.

Suitable for the high-quality of this fan it is equipped with a long-lived double ball bearing.
The PWM-controlled fan covers a large speed range from 700-1200rpm.

The fan is shipped in an uniquely extensive individual packaging with multiple accessories:

4x Rubber slicks (transparent)
1x 7V adaptor cable for connection to the system PSU
1x Y-cable for connection of 2 PWM-controlled fans to one connector
1x 12V adaptor cable for (non-adjusted) connection of the can directly to the system PSU

Technical specifications:
Size: 140 mm
Colour: Grey frame, blue fan blades
Thickness: 26 mm
Voltage: 12 Volts
Speed range: 700 - 1200 rpm
Power consumption: 1.56 Watts
Airflow: 122 mÂ³/h / 71,8 CFM
Noise emissions: 17.6 - 24.6 dBa
Bearing: 2 Ball Bearing
Connector: 4-Pin PWM

Extent of delivery:
1x DeepCool UF Fan 140 + mounting material


----------



## Ceadderman

I don't know about those. I generally recommend Yate Loon fans because you can get the relatively cheap ~$4 each before shipping at most places. And they have good Static Pressure which is what you need for a Radiator Cooling System. And they aren't especially noisy unless you're running the High Speed Silents at full blast.









~Ceadder


----------



## smoket4279`

I have a scout also and a H50 and I seen a big drop in temps by moving the radiator to the front in the 5.25 drive bays and sealing around it, and then using it as part of my front intake, just to give out another option.


----------



## Krusher33

How big of a drop?


----------



## smoket4279`

I've seen a 5c drop when overclocked to 4.0 or higher below that about 7-8c drop


----------



## FreekyGTi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoket4279`;13364919*
> I have a scout also and a H50 and I seen a big drop in temps by moving the radiator to the front in the 5.25 drive bays and sealing around it, and then using it as part of my front intake, just to give out another option.


sadly for my scout...most of the front is taken up by a card reader and a fan controller...so no room to mount the rad in the front


----------



## ra_27

WOW that great drop.

I have to say with drops like you must be happy with your H50.


----------



## Ubeermench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AverageGai;13346753*
> That's good.
> 
> Btw, do you know if it'll fit into the NZXT Phantom case?
> 
> I'm hearing from some people that the radiator is hitting the top exhaust fan if I mount it on the rear exhaust area.


Its a tight fit but it does work. I installed one in my old system.


----------



## smoket4279`

yea with it there I was pulling about 48-50c when P95ing and before it was between 52-55c eventho all this does depend on room temp as I have seen it get down as low as 38-39 with a load of around 70-80% when I opened the window late one night.


----------



## Narsil

So, I am screwing my fans and shroud into the H70 rad, and I realize the screws I am using are likely a wee bit too long. ( insert epic face-palm here ).

I remove the works, and sure enough......the screws have done a bit of a mangle-job on the fins. 3 of the 4 look pretty bad, with 1 of them completely going into the fins, squishing it's way through (not fixable by any means).

So, the burning question....just _how_ badly did I wreck it ? Is it potentially toast ? I realize there's no liquid inside the fins, so I am not worried about leaks or anything, just how badly it will effect it's efficiency, I suppose.

I should know better than to work on hardware when sleep-deprived.....oh well..... 
Thanks for any advice.


----------



## Furrby

Im on the List. Yes first club.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Narsil*


So, I am screwing my fans and shroud into the H70 rad, and I realize the screws I am using are likely a wee bit too long. ( insert epic face-palm here ).

I remove the works, and sure enough......the screws have done a bit of a mangle-job on the fins. 3 of the 4 look pretty bad, with 1 of them completely going into the fins, squishing it's way through (not fixable by any means).

So, the burning question....just _how_ badly did I wreck it ? Is it potentially toast ? I realize there's no liquid inside the fins, so I am not worried about leaks or anything, just how badly it will effect it's efficiency, I suppose.

I should know better than to work on hardware when sleep-deprived.....oh well..... 
Thanks for any advice.


Okay do yourself a favor. If you can pull your MoBo w/o removing your Cooler I would remove both as a single unit. Lay your MoBo flat on a cardboard box. If you have the original MoBo box handy use that. Then lay the Cooler in a bowl and fire it up like you would as though your running in a Case. Your temps will increase here so no worries unless they get too high.

What you're doing in this test is doing a leakdown test. Run it until you're absolutely certain you have no leaks as revealed in the bowl. Once you've figured it out one way or the other you'll be able to move on from there. You might get lucky and not have damaged the coolant tubes in the Radiator.

I wish you well.









~Ceadder


----------



## Furrby

Add Me
HAF922


Edit: Sorry wrong thread...lol


----------



## Narsil

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


You might get lucky and not have damaged the coolant tubes in the Radiator. 
~Ceadder










 Hi, and thanks very much for the good advice. I was debating some kind of test, but removing it and the mobo will not be done easily.
Yeah, I am definately hoping that I might be lucky with my stupidity. Quick question.... if I damaged the coolant tubes, would it not be leaking already ? (The worst one is on a bottom corner.)

Also, are there even _any _coolant tubes located along the outer wall (the last row) of fins ? It doesn't appear to be, at least as far as I can see.

(Yes, I am trying to figure out if it's likely okay without resorting to yanking the whole works out...... but I know the potential disaster from a leak..)

Anyone else fubared some fins with screws ????


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Narsil*


Hi, and thanks very much for the good advice. I was debating some kind of test, but removing it and the mobo will not be done easily.
Yeah, I am definately hoping that I might be lucky with my stupidity. Quick question.... if I damaged the coolant tubes, would it not be leaking already ? (The worst one is on a bottom corner.)

Also, are there even _any _coolant tubes located along the outer wall (the last row) of fins ? It doesn't appear to be, at least as far as I can see.

(Yes, I am trying to figure out if it's likely okay without resorting to yanking the whole works out...... but I know the potential disaster from a leak..)

Anyone else fubared some fins with screws ????


Not necessarily. You might not be leaking because the Radiator isn't yet hot enough to do so. If it's not I suggest running something like Prime95 for a bit til your H70 starts warming up. If you can get your system running hot w/o hitting max temp specs for your CPU and no leaks you should be fine. The reason you do so with it out and the Rad in a bowl is pretty obvious but doing it this way also protects the rest of your system from leak damage.









I apologize for getting back to you late I'm in the process of trying to get my 4.0 24/7 stable.









~Ceadder


----------



## milesmutt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


^^^ Flip that Rad over so the pipes intake and outlet at the bottom. Other than that I don't see anything wrong with your setup.










Is this why my H50 is noisy as hell when I first boot up? It goes away within
8-10 minutes or so, but it's really annoying.

Also, is it best to turn the fan around to exhaust for a push/pull? It seems
I've been reading that's been the preferred way to mount this setup.

BTW, idle temps are 39-40c, and 54-56c load.


----------



## Ceadderman

It's entirely possible that is what's causing the noise.

For a Push Pull you want to identify which you're looking to set up P/P Exhaust or P/P Intake.

Someone here, I cannot remember whom, showed us his Radiator after having it set up in Intake at the rear of his case. It looked like the Fans sucked in a Rabbit all the fluff that was built up on his Radiator. If you live in a high dust environment like I do, I recommend Exhaust.

You want your P/P to look like this...

------[Intake fan]-------[shroud]---------[radiator]-----------[exhaust fan]----------(direction of flow)----->

you probably do not need a shroud on the other side as the shroud is meant to back the fan off the Radiator to allow more flow over the vanes without impeding it. When your fan is directly on the Radiator it creates negative flow because there is a dead spot where the air doesn't get clear access to all the vanes on the radiator. Take a small juice glass the size of the fan hub and touch it to the center of the Rad. You will have little to no airflow over those vanes. That's a pretty big waste of cooling potential. There are YouTube videos showing smoke tests that are quite informative about the issue. You would do well to check them out.









~Ceadder


----------



## FreekyGTi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13375905*
> I recommend Exhaust.
> 
> You want your P/P to look like this...
> 
> [Intake fan]
> 
> [shroud]
> 
> [radiator]
> 
> [exhaust fan]
> 
> (direction of flow)
> 
> >
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I have two questions for ya

1st....isnt that diagram depicting an intake P/P?

wouldnt exhaust be

<

direction of air flow

(Pull Fan)

Rad

(Push Fan)

inside of case

2nd question...where is the best place or even a place to buy those shrouds? ive looked around and i cant seem to find them...but im probably not looking for the correct thing...so could you point a h60 newb in the general direction of said shrouds?


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreekyGTi;13378032*
> I have two questions for ya
> 
> 1st....isnt that diagram depicting an intake P/P?
> 
> wouldnt exhaust be
> 
> <
> 
> direction of air flow
> 
> (Pull Fan)
> 
> Rad
> 
> (Push Fan)
> 
> inside of case
> 
> 2nd question...where is the best place or even a place to buy those shrouds? ive looked around and i cant seem to find them...but im probably not looking for the correct thing...so could you point a h60 newb in the general direction of said shrouds?


Most people just get super cheap 120mm fans and cut the blades out to make shrouds.


----------



## milesmutt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13375905*
> It's entirely possible that is what's causing the noise.
> 
> For a Push Pull you want to identify which you're looking to set up P/P Exhaust or P/P Intake.
> 
> Someone here, I cannot remember whom, showed us his Radiator after having it set up in Intake at the rear of his case. It looked like the Fans sucked in a Rabbit all the fluff that was built up on his Radiator. If you live in a high dust environment like I do, I recommend Exhaust.
> 
> You want your P/P to look like this...
> 
> [Intake fan]
> 
> [shroud]
> 
> [radiator]
> 
> [exhaust fan]
> 
> (direction of flow)
> 
> >
> 
> you probably do not need a shroud on the other side as the shroud is meant to back the fan off the Radiator to allow more flow over the vanes without impeding it. When your fan is directly on the Radiator it creates negative flow because there is a dead spot where the air doesn't get clear access to all the vanes on the radiator. Take a small juice glass the size of the fan hub and touch it to the center of the Rad. You will have little to no airflow over those vanes. That's a pretty big waste of cooling potential. There are YouTube videos showing smoke tests that are quite informative about the issue. You would do well to check them out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Thanks for the quick reply Ceadder.

OK, I'll try and flip the radiator down and reverse the fan to exhaust
through the back of the case. I'm not concerned so much with the
temps as I am with the noise, so I won't try the shroud thingy yet.

The office can get dusty but not as bad as that guy you were talking
about. I remember seeing that thread too....that dust was ridiculous!

Also, I plan on mounting a fan just above the hard drive cage to help cool
down that scalding top GTX 570, so I'll have sufficient intake to offset the
loss from the H50's fan in the back.

Thanks again!


----------



## FreekyGTi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13378126*
> Most people just get super cheap 120mm fans and cut the blades out to make shrouds.


well that would explain why i havent been able to find these mysterious shrouds ive seen mentioned

thanks for the reply!


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreekyGTi;13378884*
> well that would explain why i havent been able to find these mysterious shrouds ive seen mentioned
> 
> thanks for the reply!


http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p9232_120x120x20mm-Shroud-Plexi.html

You can buy them too but most folks just make their own just because they have dead or crappy fans laying around. My example would be that I had one where the fan blade broke. Rather than just trying to glue it on and cause a possible imbalance I just cut out the motor/blades assembly and turned it into a shroud. Works well!


----------



## Kokin

Here's something I have worked on during the weekend. It actually is possible to front mount the H50 in an Antec 902. Temps are more or less the same as my rear intake, though it's hard to be accurate when the temps outside range from 60F to 80F.

Only "mod" I had to do was drill out bigger holes for the spare fan bracket my case came with. The rest was all cleaning out every part of my case and cable management.

Sorry about the quality of the pictures, I was too lazy to bust out a DSLR for a few quick pictures, so I just used my phone.

*Here is the fan "mod" using a 5/32 drill to fit in the screws for the H50:*









*This is what it looks like attached to my case:*









*Front View of attached fan bracket:*









*A couple of pictures of my lapped H50:*

















*Front View after:*









*End Results:*


----------



## BradleyW

My noctua nh d14 is nowhere near as good performance as my corsair h50!


----------



## vf-

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krusher33*


http://www.aquatuning.us/product_inf...oud-Plexi.html

You can buy them too but most folks just make their own just because they have dead or crappy fans laying around. My example would be that I had one where the fan blade broke. Rather than just trying to glue it on and cause a possible imbalance I just cut out the motor/blades assembly and turned it into a shroud. Works well!



Are screws supplied with that and will they fit in the h70 rad?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


*A couple of pictures of my lapped H50:*


















Why didn't Corsair do this to begin with? Even the H70 for the cost of them. There's lower end cooler with lapped contacts. :s


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vf-*


Are screws supplied with that and will they fit in the h70 rad?

Why didn't Corsair do this to begin with? Even the H70 for the cost of them. There's lower end cooler with lapped contacts. :s


Cause Corsair didn't build it. I haven't seen a review of an all in one liquid cooling system where the manufacturer had a pristinely lapped surface with preapplied TIM on it. Not that there isn't a cooler, I just haven't seen it.

Acetek and Cool-It make these coolers, not Corsair or Antec for that matter.

I'm not sure if lapping the plate of something that is pretty flat already even really makes much of a difference. Because I lapped my CPU which gave me +10-15c degree drop in temps all by itself. I thought I was having issues with my H50 back in the first month or so when I got mine so wanting to check all options, I replaced the H50 with the stock AMD cooler which isn't lapped. I saw maybe a 1-2c increase in temps but for the most part there wasn't a difference.

In any case I do know that lapping the surface helps to minimize the surface defects and allow TIM better and more complete coverage to aid in the cooling process. Which is what lapping is all about.

As far as my example of how to set up a push pull, it was an example. It's not carved in concrete. You have to adjust accordingly in order to satisfy your particular need. Also maybe I was outlining how to set up a P/P system in a Right Access Silverstone cabinet.







lol










~Ceadder


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I'm not sure if lapping the plate of something that is pretty flat already even really makes much of a difference.


Don't know about the H50; but my H70 wasn't anywhere near flat. There was a distinct concavity, as well as a very rough-textured surface. I've never had an air cooler that had anywhere near that bad a contact surface, not even stock coolers. Saw a huge drop after lapping mine.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Cause Corsair didn't build it. I haven't seen a review of an all in one liquid cooling system where the manufacturer had a pristinely lapped surface with preapplied TIM on it. Not that there isn't a cooler, I just haven't seen it.

Acetek and Cool-It make these coolers, not Corsair or Antec for that matter.

I'm not sure if lapping the plate of something that is pretty flat already even really makes much of a difference. Because I lapped my CPU which gave me +10-15c degree drop in temps all by itself. I thought I was having issues with my H50 back in the first month or so when I got mine so wanting to check all options, I replaced the H50 with the stock AMD cooler which isn't lapped. I saw maybe a 1-2c increase in temps but for the most part there wasn't a difference.

In any case I do know that lapping the surface helps to minimize the surface defects and allow TIM better and more complete coverage to aid in the cooling process. Which is what lapping is all about.

As far as my example of how to set up a push pull, it was an example. It's not carved in concrete. You have to adjust accordingly in order to satisfy your particular need. Also maybe I was outlining how to set up a P/P system in a Right Access Silverstone cabinet.







lol










~Ceadder










You would actually be surprised how often people get coolers that are just completely concave or convex. Lapping most of the time is to make the contact surface flat more then it is about making it smooth.


----------



## Krusher33

Even the direct contact heatpipes ones where the heatpipes are MILES away from contact.









A good way to test is using a brand spanking new razor blade. Hold it blade side touching the plate. Shine a light behind a screen behind it all and look to see if you can see a gap between the blade and plate.

I think we have a lapping guide somewhere that demonstrates this well. Or maybe someone did it, can't remember.


----------



## superhead91

So, I cleaned out my case last night...


----------



## BradleyW

hahaha! My rad also get extremely dusty too.


----------



## Rogue71

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


So, I cleaned out my case last night... 


















LOL better shave that thing...


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rogue71*


LOL better shave that thing...


Dust catcher next time mate. errr is does look a bit hairy though. That's a little off putting.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BradleyW*


Dust catcher next time mate. errr is does look a bit hairy though. That's a little off putting.


Yeah, I cleaned it up and changed my setup. Before I had this setup:
<----[pull fan]----[shroud]----[rad]----[shroud]----[push fan] 
with 25mm shrouds and two 3k ultra kazes. Now my setup is:
<----[pull fan]----[rad]----[shroud]----[shroud]----[push fan]
The whole thing is intake in my drive bays. I've run 30 passes of linx on a 4.0GHz overclock and my temps haven't gone over 46C yet.


----------



## Krusher33

But it certainly shows why shrouds are good. You wouldn't have that dead spot in middle with a shroud.

Edit: Wait... you had a shroud? What's with the middle?


----------



## WorldExclusive

No H60 love?


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WorldExclusive*









No H60 love?


H60s are welcome. The OP disappeared a while back and no one else can change the title, but H60 should be in there.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krusher33*


But it certainly shows why shrouds are good. You wouldn't have that dead spot in middle with a shroud.

Edit: Wait... you had a shroud? What's with the middle?


I only had a 25mm shroud, so it still wasn't completely getting rid of the dead spot, that's why in my new setup I put both 25mm shrouds in between my push fan and the rad, so now I basically have a 50mm shroud there.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


Quote:



Originally Posted by *WorldExclusive*









No H60 love?


H60s are welcome. The OP disappeared a while back and no one else can change the title, but H60 should be in there.


I added column in spreadsheat for H60. And boy that spreadsheat is messed up. I think LilChris broke it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


I only had a 25mm shroud, so it still wasn't completely getting rid of the dead spot, that's why in my new setup I put both 25mm shrouds in between my push fan and the rad, so now I basically have a 50mm shroud there.


Ooooh. OK. Shoot... 25mm doesn't do much good?


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krusher33*


Ooooh. OK. Shoot... 25mm doesn't do much good?


25mm helps, but from what I've read 38mm is ideal. I wasn't about to cut up an ultra kaze though so I figured 50mm wouldn't hurt. Been running OCCT for about 13 minutes now and CPU temps haven't gone over 51C.


----------



## Dr216

If the Op/owner of the club has dissapeared someone active with time to maintain it should petition a mod to get the ownership changed. They will most likely ask for volunteers/nominations and then hand over ownership.


----------



## nitewulf

I'm running and overclocked i7 965 EE at 4009.1 along with 12 GB of Corsair Dominator running at 1600. The room where the computer is is fairly warm (24c). I removed the H70 and reseated with some IC7 I had lying around. Temperatures are about the same, 44c at idle. Intel burn test runs at upper 70's and prime 95 gets up to mid 80's (c) quickly. I'm using two GT AP-15s in an exhaust configuration and the rest of the fans are stock for the CM Haf 932. 
I have not had any problems with stability, just wondering why I can't get the low temp.s everyone else seems to be getting. When I am able to run a/c, the temps will drop by about 3 or 4 degrees, but no more. Of course, if I do not overclock the cpu, then temp's are acceptable. Other than to decrease my overclock, not sure what else I can do. Any ideas?


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nitewulf*


I'm running and overclocked i7 965 EE at 4009.1 along with 12 GB of Corsair Dominator running at 1600. The room where the computer is is fairly warm (24c). I removed the H70 and reseated with some IC7 I had lying around. Temperatures are about the same, 44c at idle. Intel burn test runs at upper 70's and prime 95 gets up to mid 80's (c) quickly. I'm using two GT AP-15s in an exhaust configuration and the rest of the fans are stock for the CM Haf 932. 
I have not had any problems with stability, just wondering why I can't get the low temp.s everyone else seems to be getting. When I am able to run a/c, the temps will drop by about 3 or 4 degrees, but no more. Of course, if I do not overclock the cpu, then temp's are acceptable. Other than to decrease my overclock, not sure what else I can do. Any ideas?


Well, aside from the i7 being a space heater; have you tried lapping the contact surface on the H70? I saw a huge drop when I lapped mine (using IC TIM as well).


----------



## nitewulf

Thanks, luchog. That's about the only thing I haven't tried. Guess I'll give it a whirl over the weekend.


----------



## superhead91

So before I cleaned off my H50 rad, running OCCT my CPU temp went up into the 70s very quickly, after cleaning, I ran OCCT for an hour and it didn't go above 51C. Wow...


----------



## Krusher33

Ha ha ha, wow!

Same story as with coolers though. Did you clean it with canned air or...?


----------



## Jyve

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nitewulf*


Thanks, luchog. That's about the only thing I haven't tried. Guess I'll give it a whirl over the weekend.


Have you tried flipping the fans and trying intake?


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krusher33*


Ha ha ha, wow!

Same story as with coolers though. Did you clean it with canned air or...?


Well I cleaned off the thick layer of dust with my finger, and just blew the rest out the best I could since I don't have any canned air atm.


----------



## Krusher33

Ugh, why did I ask?


----------



## nitewulf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jyve*


Have you tried flipping the fans and trying intake?


Yes, I've tried as intake twice and temp.s are a couple of degrees warmer on intake.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


Well I cleaned off the thick layer of dust with my finger, and just blew the rest out the best I could since I don't have any canned air atm.


A soft tooth brush is better than air can for that cooler. Give it a try. Dampen the tooth brush for best result.


----------



## Xristo

So the temps have dropped heaps here in sydney , stoked with my idle temps







winter isnt even here yet =D



and a quick run of cinebench .. 69c max



what do you guys reckon ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33;13393371*
> I added column in spreadsheat for H60. And boy that spreadsheat is messed up. I think LilChris broke it.
> 
> Ooooh. OK. Shoot... 25mm doesn't do much good?


Just consider how large that dead spot would be *without* a shroud between the fan and the Radiator. That one was a little one. Had I a 35mm defunct fan I probably would have use the body for my shroud instead of a 25mm fan body.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW;13395982*
> A soft tooth brush is better than air can for that cooler. Give it a try. Dampen the tooth brush for best result.


This and a cheap paint brush is even better. Just make sure that brush is only used for dusting your system though. Eeeeewwww.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## BradleyW

Good job you lapped it. That will help your temps by a good 10c.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW;13396237*
> Good job you lapped it. That will help your temps by a good 10c.


yeah made a huge improvement , along with my 25mm shrouds and i have the corsair fan in push overvolted at 24v .. its moving some decent air , atleast 100cfm +

antec tri cool pull fan on high , using as5 thermal paste also . would like to use 2 overvolted fans but it would be rediculously loud as it already is .

all i know is it isnt easy keeping an i7 @ 1.4+v under 70c on 100% load .


----------



## BradleyW

Would be way too loud for me. Nice one! For the full experience, get a 120mm Rad with more of them fans on it!


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW;13396315*
> Would be way too loud for me. Nice one! For the full experience, get a 120mm Rad with more of them fans on it!


the noise kinda bugs me at times , but my temps are too good to care lol .

do u mean a 240 rad ? that would be epic . would the h50 pump be efficient for a 240mm rad ?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;13396386*
> the noise kinda bugs me at times , but my temps are too good to care lol .
> 
> do u mean a 240 rad ? that would be epic . would the h50 pump be efficient for a 240mm rad ?


Sorry i mean 240 rad and yes as long as the tubing is not too long, you will see a 10c difference, a lot more maybe if you added more of those fans!


----------



## kiwiasian

Bradley, may I ask why you sold your H50


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kiwiasian;13396728*
> Bradley, may I ask why you sold your H50


Some water got into the cooler. I know, it's crazy.

No am just trying to push for 4.4Ghz and i need the silver arrow to give me that extra help. It smashes the H50 by a lot in every test. Unless your running a H50 like Xristo.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13396153*
> This and a cheap paint brush is even better. Just make sure that brush is only used for dusting your system though. Eeeeewwww.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


*Happily brushing teeth until seeing regular toothbrush still in holder* What toothbrush am I... Aghhh!


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13396778*
> *Happily brushing teeth until seeing regular toothbrush still in holder* What toothbrush am I... Aghhh!


oh dear, i feared this would happen.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well since it's a self add list I guess I'll step up and take the hit. I'll PM a Mod and see what can be done.









*Update* Okay I've reported this post. Let's see how things go.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW;13396759*
> Some water got into the cooler. I know, it's crazy.
> 
> No am just trying to push for 4.4Ghz and i need the silver arrow to give me that extra help. It smashes the H50 by a lot in every test. Unless your running a H50 like Xristo.


Yes , silver arrow is the best option unless you heavily modify the h50 and lap the cpu like i did .. Out of the box , my temps were nothing like this .. i think i idled low 40's and loaded way past 85c .. compared to my mid 20's idle n high 60's load now ..

all achieved from

*2 x shrouds

*lapped cpu / base of the h50 .

*as5 thermal paste ( line method )

*overvolted push fan 3,000rpm and a 2,000rpm pull fan .

* i tightened the pump really tight ( really tight ) screws are kinda stripped .. ( helps make good contact to ur cpu ) even the slightest gap can make or break temps .

* rad mounted uptop of my antec 1200 in exhaust , vents ontop of the dvd drive allow it to get all the cool air it needs from outside my case ( next to window ) crisp mornings , i love them =D .

These few things made the h50 alot better than what it already is .

the biggest issue out of the box is the thermal pad its supplied with , way too much ..as5 is a better option (applying it correctly) .. and the block is very grainy and definatly needs to be lapped and so should the cpu .. risky though , average person wont do this but if done right , makes a massive difference .

thanks for that =)


----------



## kiwiasian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW;13396759*
> Some water got into the cooler. I know, it's crazy.
> 
> No am just trying to push for 4.4Ghz and i need the silver arrow to give me that extra help. It smashes the H50 by a lot in every test. Unless your running a H50 like Xristo.


Is there any reason why you chose against a full water cooling loop, or a budget system like the XSPC kit?

I'm sure your case would love it.

Unfortunately for me I would love a XSPC kit but can't fit one in my case.


----------



## JackBauer24

A local shop just got some Gentle Typhoons in stock. Gonna be a busy weekend swapping the old ones out.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


Yes , silver arrow is the best option unless you heavily modify the h50 and lap the cpu like i did .. Out of the box , my temps were nothing like this .. i think i idled low 40's and loaded way past 85c .. compared to my mid 20's idle n high 60's load now ..

all achieved from

*2 x shrouds

*lapped cpu / base of the h50 .

*as5 thermal paste ( line method )

*overvolted push fan 3,000rpm and a 2,000rpm pull fan .

* i tightened the pump really tight ( really tight ) screws are kinda stripped .. ( helps make good contact to ur cpu ) even the slightest gap can make or break temps .

* rad mounted uptop of my antec 1200 in exhaust , vents ontop of the dvd drive allow it to get all the cool air it needs from outside my case ( next to window ) crisp mornings , i love them =D .

These few things made the h50 alot better than what it already is .

the biggest issue out of the box is the thermal pad its supplied with , way too much ..as5 is a better option (applying it correctly) .. and the block is very grainy and definatly needs to be lapped and so should the cpu .. risky though , average person wont do this but if done right , makes a massive difference .

thanks for that =)


I am very pleased. I tried lapping 3 of my HS's in the past. I got to a stage were no matter how long i lapped for, it just would not lap right? I do have a TRUE perfectly lapped though. It was great with pushpull and washer mod.

Edit: KiwiAsain, i would have gotton something like that kit but i don't know much about water cooling except how it works. It's also just out of budget by Â£35.


----------



## Swift Castiel

Gonna upload pics of my H60 next week after my LED strips and 8-pin extension come in >


----------



## Krusher33

So... I wanted to run a test on my Hyper 212+ before putting the H60 in. I can't seem to get my chip above 3.5 ghz and 30 degrees with it... lol. sigh. Dagnabbit bunny rabbit.


----------



## _REAPER_

where can I get a shroud for my h70


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_;13407600*
> where can I get a shroud for my h70


One of the pc parts websites (I can't remember it off the top of my head) sells them, but most people just cut the blades out of 120mm fans and use that.


----------



## Ceadderman

You can get shrouds(custom made ones) for about $20 that includes LEDs' in them from:

performance-pcs.com

frozencpu.com

performance does have some plain jane clear ones in stock as well that are $13 and $15 respectively. $13 for the 120 and $15 for the 140.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13408703*
> You can get shrouds(custom made ones) for about $20 that includes LEDs' in them from:
> 
> performance-pcs.com
> 
> frozencpu.com
> 
> performance does have some plain jane clear ones in stock as well that are $13 and $15 respectively. $13 for the 120 and $15 for the 140.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I looked at both of those sites and didn't see them... lol... I looked under fan accessories though as it seems like it would make more sense to put them there...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13408825*
> I looked at both of those sites and didn't see them... lol... I looked under fan accessories though as it seems like it would make more sense to put them there...


But shrouds are strictly Radiator related, hence the reason you find them in Watercooling.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13408904*
> But shrouds are strictly Radiator related, hence the reason you find them in Watercooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


This is true...


----------



## vf-

What is the name of the screws for the H70? since they are so fine threaded. My tap and die kit doesn't even have a set that matches it.


----------



## _REAPER_

Thanks for the info


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vf-*


What is the name of the screws for the H70? since they are so fine threaded. My tap and die kit doesn't even have a set that matches it.


Which screws? The ones that mount the Radiator/Fan setup have a thread pitch of 6-32. I'm not sure what the thread pitch of the bracket screws are. Maybe M3 or M4. But the ones for the Radiator are 6-32.

To be able to mount 52mm of fans and silicon silencers combined thickness is roughly 2.25", which I couldn't find that size at either Home Depot or Lowe's. I ended up buying 3" 6-32 screws in phillips head and cutting the heads off after threading 2 hex nuts per bolt to create a jam nut setup keeping it all together.









~Ceadder


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Which screws? The ones that mount the Radiator/Fan setup have a thread pitch of 6-32. I'm not sure what the thread pitch of the bracket screws are. Maybe M3 or M4. But the ones for the Radiator are 6-32.

To be able to mount 52mm of fans and silicon silencers combined thickness is roughly 2.25", which I couldn't find that size at either Home Depot or Lowe's. I ended up buying 3" 6-32 screws in phillips head and cutting the heads off after threading 2 hex nuts per bolt to create a jam nut setup keeping it all together.









~Ceadder










When I looked at home depot I could only find 2" and under 6-32 screws. I guess it's safe to say it will vary by location. It is entirely possible I just overlooked 3" 6-32s though...


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


When I looked at home depot I could only find 2" and under 6-32 screws. I guess it's safe to say it will vary by location. It is entirely possible I just overlooked 3" 6-32s though...


I've tried to look for anything past 2" as well, but no luck in Home Depot/Lowe's.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kiwiasian*


Is there any reason why you chose against a full water cooling loop, or a budget system like the XSPC kit?

I'm sure your case would love it.

Unfortunately for me I would love a XSPC kit but can't fit one in my case.


It's doable, but a 240rad would take about 7 or 8 of the 9 front 5.25" slots, but seeing as you have several hard drives, it's probably not possible.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey you guys put those Hydro series Coolers to work. What are you waiting for? Honestly.

I fold 24/7. But you don't have to Fold 24/7. We do need you for this week though. If you head over to this thread...








*Chimp Challenge Recruitment 5th-15th May 2011 OCN vs The World*









...and sign up run for ONE week you'll be eligible for the prizes listed in the OP. This is for a good cause and for Syrillian. So if you haven't started Folding, what are you waiting for?









We need to stay ahead of team EVGA and need to catch Beavers Gone Bananas. this is for bragging rights and you can tell your grandkids you helped OCNChimpin back in 2011 run the projects that could very well help cure diseases around the world. You can't give back for ONE WEEK? Honestly?









Superhead Bro, you could be Folding some -bigadv Clients on that 6Core. I know you want to.









~Ceadder


----------



## CircuitFreak

Started my folding this morning gonna throw my spare 9800 GTX+ in and fold on that as well full time. Great Cause.


----------



## Ceadderman

Awesome! Who's next? Bueler?...

Bueler?...

Bueler?....

C'mon guys don't be shy step up and Fold for this one week at least.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## superhead91

ok ok... running -bigadv on my computer now... and gpu tracker v2 with my 5850, and folding with my macbook... lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13417255*
> ok ok... running -bigadv on my computer now... and gpu tracker v2 with my 5850, and folding with my macbook... lol


YES! Dang I shoulda started recruiting last week.









bo is getting his 4 systems online as we speak.

But I hope people still get started even if it's only for this Chimp Challenge.









~ceadder:drink:


----------



## thecyb0rg

So I had one of my Ultra Kaze 3000's die on me last night. Want to go with something quieter, though still powerful. I'll take cooling power over db level (pretty much everything is quieter than UK3k). So what fans should I replace my UK3k with?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Cyb0rg*


So I had one of my Ultra Kaze 3000's die on me last night. Want to go with something quieter, though still powerful. I'll take cooling power over db level (pretty much everything is quieter than UK3k). So what fans should I replace my UK3k with?


Yate Loon Medium Speed Silents work REALLY well.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_Cyb0rg;13420738*
> So I had one of my Ultra Kaze 3000's die on me last night. Want to go with something quieter, though still powerful. I'll take cooling power over db level (pretty much everything is quieter than UK3k). So what fans should I replace my UK3k with?


The Yate Loon High speeds work very well also. It doesn't have much advantage to the medium speeds at idle/casual loads, but at full load, there is a difference. I normally run mine at around 1k RPM and it's very quiet.


----------



## thecyb0rg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin;13421011*
> The Yate Loon High speeds work very well also. It doesn't have much advantage to the medium speeds at idle/casual loads, but at full load, there is a difference. I normally run mine at around 1k RPM and it's very quiet.


Does Newegg have those?


----------



## Xristo

Pretty cold this morning , quick cinebench run at 4.2ghz .. i love my h50 =)


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Cyb0rg*


So I had one of my Ultra Kaze 3000's die on me last night. Want to go with something quieter, though still powerful. I'll take cooling power over db level (pretty much everything is quieter than UK3k). So what fans should I replace my UK3k with?


http://www.overclock.net/other-cooli...group-buy.html


----------



## calvinbui

so i want to use 2 ap15s for my h70 in my other computer but how do i go about controlling the speed of the fan, i want it varying like a PWM. I got a NZXT Sentry 2 fan controller if that helps


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Cyb0rg*


Does Newegg have those?


Nope but you can get Yate Loon's from many other places. I get mine from Performance-PCs.com for ~$4 each before shipping. If you can swing it I would get 2 of the Mediums and two of the High Speeds and then run the Mediums til Summer. Cause while your 3k speed fans were loud the High Speeds can get a bit annoying at times.









~Ceadder


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


Pretty cold this morning , quick cinebench run at 4.2ghz .. i love my h50 =)




Use the AC much? I find it hard to believe it's cold? Isn't Sydney Australia a hot country?


----------



## Swift Castiel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


Use the AC much? I find it hard to believe it's cold? Isn't Sydney Australia a hot country?


POssibly, except it's winter at the moment.


----------



## Xristo

its autumn in sydney atm .. No i didnt use the aircon it was just cold this morning n thought id see what my temps were at . i cant wait for winter









Good temps u think ? was pretty chilly this morning , but its going to get colder .. i usually leave my windows open at night to get my room cool .

These are some runs with the aircon on , back in summer . This is what the h50 is capable of after many tweaks of coarse .

Low idle , power features enabled .










2.93ghz










3.2ghz










4.2ghz / 1.408v


----------



## nitewulf

I'm not having too good luck with my H70 cooling my i7 965 o/c to 4009.1 (81 peak IBT and mid to upper 80's Prime 95). Idle is 42. A friend has an H50 he's no longer using and I was going to switch with the H70 to see if the problem is my chip or the H70. I know the front bracket is probably different, but is the rear bracket the same? I hate to have to remove the rear bracket if i don't have to.


----------



## _REAPER_

What is your vcore for your cpu set at. I am running mine at 4.0ghz right now with 30-32C idle


----------



## nitewulf

CPU voltage is 1.425, Dram Bus Voltage 1.64 and QPI/Dram Core Voltage 1.37500.
I've reseated the H70 with IC7 (no change). I'm running 2 GT AP-15s in exhaust for the fans (tried intake, no difference). The pump shows it's running at 1430. Either the H70 is defective, or my overclock + fairly warm room temperature (mid 70's F.) is the cause of the higher-than-everyone-else's temperatures. I just ran Prime 95 for about an hour and Real temp showed max. temp. of 87-87-83-86. I'm also running 12 GBs of Dominator at 1600 and a GTX 570 SC card which adds to the case temp.s. I guess I really won't know until I RMA the H70. I realize the TIM has a cure time, but I doubt my temp's are going to drop 15 celsius!


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nitewulf*


CPU voltage is 1.425, Dram Bus Voltage 1.64 and QPI/Dram Core Voltage 1.37500.
I've reseated the H70 with IC7 (no change). I'm running 2 GT AP-15s in exhaust for the fans (tried intake, no difference). The pump shows it's running at 1430. Either the H70 is defective, or my overclock + fairly warm room temperature (mid 70's F.) is the cause of the higher-than-everyone-else's temperatures. I just ran Prime 95 for about an hour and Real temp showed max. temp. of 87-87-83-86. I'm also running 12 GBs of Dominator at 1600 and a GTX 570 SC card which adds to the case temp.s. I guess I really won't know until I RMA the H70. I realize the TIM has a cure time, but I doubt my temp's are going to drop 15 celsius!


If you haven't lapped the contact surface on the H70, that would be your next step. If you have, then perhaps investing in air conditioning would be a useful next step.


----------



## nitewulf

No, I haven't lapped the H70 yet. I guess I can read the tutorial I saw elsewhere on this forum and give it a try. Actually, we have central a/c, but my bedroom stays fairly warm compared to the rest of the house. I might be able to turn down some of the voltages a little and see if that helps. The H70 has to be at least partially cooling or the computer would have shut down when I ran Prime95. If I remove the overclock to stock 3.2, I idle at 29 and load temp's are fine. I guess I was expecting too much of the H70 out of the box. But then again, others are running this same chip at higher o/c than mine with load temp's in the 50 and low 60's.


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nitewulf*


No, I haven't lapped the H70 yet. I guess I can read the tutorial I saw elsewhere on this forum and give it a try. Actually, we have central a/c, but my bedroom stays fairly warm compared to the rest of the house. I might be able to turn down some of the voltages a little and see if that helps. The H70 has to be at least partially cooling or the computer would have shut down when I ran Prime95. If I remove the overclock to stock 3.2, I idle at 29 and load temp's are fine. I guess I was expecting too much of the H70 out of the box. But then again, others are running this same chip at higher o/c than mine with load temp's in the 50 and low 60's.


The H70 performance OOB is not all that spectacular, roughly on a par with most high-end air coolers. Modded, it works quite a bit better. I saw a 10-12C drop when I lapped mine and upgraded the fans.


----------



## honsbeek

Hi there , I was just wondering about the direction of mounting the cooling fans in respect to the H50 radiator. As the case fan location is the only location I can currently see to fit the H50 , and knowing that cool air is pro-dominantly on the outside of the case , I have now one facing towards the radiator from the outside and and one facing towards the radiator from the inside. Having it for a long time both fans on either side of the radiator blowing air from the inside only to the outside. No shrouds were used.

I was getting a lot of high temps when overclocking at around 60% but when I now have two fans blowing air from each side in towards the radiator , the temps are significantly lower. I was wondering how other people were doing this ^^

Thank you


----------



## Krusher33

I can't fathom the idea of the noise that would make.


----------



## nicolasl46

so, I bought myself two typhoon 5400RPM fans for my H50. How loud do you guys think this would be? I really don't mind noise since my Apevia PSU is always on max. Should I get a fan controller down the road. If I make a shroud out of an old 120mm fan, will that help my temps? I'm thinking: Outside <--Fan <--Rad <-- Shroud <-- Fan <-- Inside. Now I'm also re-seating my H50 block, should I do the small X pattern on the CPU with the nano diamond, or just a small amount in the middle? I'm not planning to lap anything.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicolasl46;13440597*
> so, I bought myself two typhoon 5400RPM fans for my H50. How loud do you guys think this would be? I really don't mind noise since my Apevia PSU is always on max. Should I get a fan controller down the road. If I make a shroud out of an old 120mm fan, will that help my temps? I'm thinking: Outside <--Fan <--Rad <-- Shroud <-- Fan <-- Inside. Now I'm also re-seating my H50 block, should I do the small X pattern on the CPU with the nano diamond, or just a small amount in the middle? I'm not planning to lap anything.


Where in your case is the rad? I've got 2 3k ultra kaze's and they're pretty loud cranked all the way up but I've got them both connected to the motherboard and use AI Suite to control the fans based on the cpu temp.


----------



## cavallino

54000rpm!!!

my 3k kaze ultras are barely tolerable at full speed.


----------



## Krusher33




----------



## nicolasl46

So I guess everyone is trying to tell me that I went a little too far with 5400RPMs LOL, I thought so too, but I had cheap 120mm Ultra fans running at 2k, and a 80mm that I bought like 5-6 years ago, running at 2600 and it didn't bother me at all. I don't want my PC to be whisper quiet, I can take a little noise. Worse come to worse, I'll buy some of those connectors to bring down the speed, or get a fan control. But thanks for the opinions


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13440804*
> Where in your case is the rad? I've got 2 3k ultra kaze's and they're pretty loud cranked all the way up but I've got them both connected to the motherboard and use AI Suite to control the fans based on the cpu temp.


Is located at the back of the case on my Storm Scout


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicolasl46;13443412*
> Is located at the back of the case on my Storm Scout


If it's in the back then yeah it seems like your setup is the best way to do it. Don't wanna be pulling in that hot GPU exhaust.


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13443572*
> If it's in the back then yeah it seems like your setup is the best way to do it. Don't wanna be pulling in that hot GPU exhaust.


meaning I should do my set-up as intake instead of as an exhaust so I won't suck the hot air from my GPU?


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicolasl46;13444706*
> meaning I should do my set-up as intake instead of as an exhaust so I won't suck the hot air from my GPU?


No. Your GPU exhausts hot air out of the back of the case, which then rises. If your rad is in the back above the GPU and it's intaking, it's going to be intaking the hot air the GPU is exhausting. Therefore, if your rad is in the back of your case it's better to run it as exhaust rather than intake. Like I said, the setup you posted earlier should be correct.


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13444749*
> No. Your GPU exhausts hot air out of the back of the case, which then rises. If your rad is in the back above the GPU and it's intaking, it's going to be intaking the hot air the GPU is exhausting. Therefore, if your rad is in the back of your case it's better to run it as exhaust rather than intake. Like I said, the setup you posted earlier should be correct.


Yeah, like that it makes a lot of sense. The thing was that i didnt try the gpu, because the day i received it i had to rma my mobo, so now my pc is in pieces on my desk, so im putting everything toghether once i get my mobo back


----------



## Xristo

Woke up this morning and it was freezing , i usually do a cinebench run every morning to see how low i can get my load temps .. since the weather is cooling down , i only ever benched my h50 through summer .

Idle and load temps are incredible for 4.2ghz with HT/Turbo enabled . My ambition is to get under 60c 100% load .


----------



## BradleyW

brilliant temps. Hey i hit 80c full load with my cooler/OC. With the noctua i would have hit 100c lol. On the H50, well, at least 95c to a 100c. Your H50 is awesome! Get a 120mm rad dude! It will take off 10c max!


----------



## Xristo

haha i love how u keep saying 120mm , ur funny =p

240 rad would be awsome indeed , one day soon hopefully i will get a 240 rad , clear tubing and a res . That should drop me down close to 55-50c load in this weather .

i dont wanna go custom loop , what for if i get temps like this .. too much hassle for very little gain .

you hit 100c on ur h50 ? wow .. i used to hit 90c before i got into modding my h50 setup .. from the few mods i did and the change in ambients , thats almost 30c drop .

Do you stil have your h50 ? should of kept it for modding .

thanks brad =)


----------



## ra_27

does any one have any video clips with sound of there H50/H60/H70 upload anywhere?

I want to see who the sound is with then I see a YouTube clip of a H70 and it seem real loud.

I need to see who loud it will be as were my system sit the case is right at head hight about 40cm away.

and the sound need to be low as can be.


----------



## Xristo

they are practically silent , it all depends on the fans you use .. if you use the stock fans in push pull , you will hear it . Though if you go and buy some gentle typhoon or noctua fans you wont hear much as they have low Db readings compared to the corsair fans which are known to be loud ..

the pump makes no noise at all , its the fans that make the noise .


----------



## ra_27

ok thanks for that I have to looking to it


----------



## vf-

Has anyone ever used the, Phobya Nano-2G 12 PWM Silent 1500rpm Red LED Double Blade fans on the H70? 64.16 CFM/109.33 m3/h.

I've been trying them in replacement of my Sharkoon 2000rpm 3 pin fans in the combat against noise.

In a small room of 25c/26c due to two computers running, 954rpm 34c idle. During the day the room is normally 19 - 22c, usually with the window wide open. I love the fresh air, more so this better weather. \o/

Case ambient at night 26/27c. NB 44c, SB, 39c idle. Then playing Crysis 2 max game settings at 1920x1200, CrossFire 5870's, 58 - 60c, NB 55 - 57C, SB 50 - 53c, CPU using Turboboost 3.6 - 3.8Ghz (X6 1090T) 45 - 47c for an hour or so. The Sharkoons would have been about 38c at load but that came with a lot of air/blade noise due to the golf ball fans. I still never had them fully ramped up to 2000rpm. It was like 1400-1500rpm. This is setup as exhausting. The case and graphic cards would build up with extra heat due to intake since the H70 radiator is below the graphic cards.

I didn't have the case fans fully ramped up to 2000rpm (3 Nexus PWM Real Silent Case Fan 2000rpm 76CFM 15,5 dB/A), I had the front (two) controlled to about 1500 under load while the graphics 120 fan is constant at 1500 as I really don't want heat build up quickly. Pity the Asus FanXpert only has CPU/chassis fan and no others to control the other fan headers....

Hopefully very soon when I get the two 140mm fans fitted to the roof it should be able to expel the graphic cards quicker.


----------



## Krusher33

[Corsair.com]Hydro Series H60 Fan Comparison: The Quiet, the Loud, and the Ridiculous
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=v7hS8uCmxeA

(Dare ya to wear headphones with volume up)


----------



## ra_27

Many thanks krusher33 that help a bit


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah I think I'll stick to my Yate Loon Medium Speeds.









~Ceadder


----------



## BradleyW

Deleted. Wrong Thread.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Yeah I think I'll stick to my Yate Loon Medium Speeds.









~Ceadder










If you reduced the speed on the High Speeds, wouldn't they practically be the same or am I wrong to assume that?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Cyb0rg*


Does Newegg have those?


Sorry I'm a bit late at responding, but the best Yates come from Siderwinders, Danger Den, and Petra's. They cost about $6-7 per fan while other stores sell them for $3-$5, though the other stores aren't as high quality.

Tator Tot did a study on the High Speeds a while ago found here. I could tell the slight difference between my Xoxide one and Sidewinder ones.

All these stores sell the Low/Medium Speeds 120mm and some sell the Low/Medium Speeds 140mm version as well.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


If you reduced the speed on the High Speeds, wouldn't they practically be the same or am I wrong to assume that?


Actually I have both types. I ran my High Speeds at full and when I swapped them out with the Medium Speeds I got the same temps. So I'm leaving the Meds in place and will be checking out the full speed temps soon. I have to restart my system here in a bit so I may jack them up to full speed to see what my temps are and see if I can live with the dBs'.

Right now the loudest thing in my 932 is the GPU which is jacked up to 70% since I'm Folding on it 24/7. I'd like to turn it down and see if there is a noticeable difference.









~Ceadder


----------



## Swift Castiel

My Corsair H60 in all its glory <3


----------



## nicolasl46

I've received my two 5400RPMs Typhoons today







as soon as I get back my mobo, i will try them on at full speed LOL


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicolasl46;13465461*
> I've received my two 5400RPMs Typhoons today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as soon as I get back my mobo, i will try them on at full speed LOL


Well, at full speed they are a little too loud, so I'm going to have to get a fan controller, or see if I can control them from my mobo. Here is a clip (sound like a vacuum cleaner LOL) [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6R71ngiANI[/ame]


----------



## BradleyW

They are so loud.


----------



## JagZ27

Hello @ALL H50 Owners,









I am experiencing (in my opinion)high Temps with my H50,just wanted to ask here if they are OK for my Setup.Or if i schould RMA the H50?

Case : CoolerMaster HAF 922
Mainboard : Rampage III Extreme
CPU : I7 920 D0 @ 3800 GHZ (HT activated)
Fans on H50 : 2 Gentle Typhoon 120mm 1850 Rpm Push/Pull INTAKE

Voltages : [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

I tested the Temps with LinX 0.6.4 64-Bit,did a 15 Minutes run.
Problem Size : 29407
Memory : ALL 6621 MIB

Here are the Temps,measured with RealTemp:

Ambient Temp : 25 Celsius

Idle : 43C 40C 45C 39C

MAX: 73C 71C 73C 69C

So,are these Temps OK,or should I RMA the H50?Reseated it several Times,the temps right now are the lowest i can get.

Regards JagZ


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JagZ27;13469100*
> Hello @ALL H50 Owners,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am experiencing (in my opinion)high Temps with my H50,just wanted to ask here if they are OK for my Setup.Or if i schould RMA the H50?
> 
> Case : CoolerMaster HAF 922
> Mainboard : Rampage III Extreme
> CPU : I7 920 D0 @ 3800 GHZ (HT activated)
> Fans on H50 : 2 Gentle Typhoon 120mm 1850 Rpm Push/Pull INTAKE
> 
> Voltages : [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]
> 
> I tested the Temps with LinX 0.6.4 64-Bit,did a 15 Minutes run.
> Problem Size : 29407
> Memory : ALL 6621 MIB
> 
> Here are the Temps,measured with RealTemp:
> 
> Ambient Temp : 25 Celsius
> 
> Idle : 43C 40C 45C 39C
> 
> MAX: 73C 71C 73C 69C
> 
> So,are these Temps OK,or should I RMA the H50?Reseated it several Times,the temps right now are the lowest i can get.
> 
> Regards JagZ


That sounds about right to be honest with you, you will get better temps if you lap the H50. why dont you bump up to 4.0ghz you should be good to go with your current Vcore


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey JagZ why don't you go to the top of the page and enter your system stats in User CP. There will be a side bar where you'll find "Add System" and "Edit System". It would be easier for us to see if there might be a contributing factor when you need assistance.









~Ceadder


----------



## FreekyGTi

Hello all...i finally got all my parts and finished my build tonight after having to run around looking for last minute things to finish my build

but im here to ask a question about idle temps

as you can see my sig rig is an i5-2500k stock clocks, using an H60 and on a very fresh build only 4ish hours old...my idle temps hang around 38c just browsing the net or browsing through general areas of the computer...like right now im syncing my dropbox so its using a load of about 13% on avg and core#0 will sit fluctuating between 36-38c while the rest of the cores will go from as low as 27c all the way to 30c...i know the first main core does most of the work so i understand the temp difference

now i ran a 12 minute blend on prime95 and i saw a peak temp of 58c and that was only for about a second and a half and never hit 58c again

are these temps average for a new build or should i be seeing some better #'s?

i know ive seen a fair number of people with air coolers and other H50's or H70's running 28-35c on idle load on here and some other sites

ill be adding a picture...but ill give ya some more info...the H60 is running 2 noctua 120mm fans in a push/pull system exhausting out the back...it also has a front intake and top exhaust fan

sorry bout the horrible picture...but its 4am and i only have my cell to take a picture with


----------



## Darylrese

My H50 idles at about 29 - 31 but thats with an AMD 1090T, load is around 43degrees. Are your fans exhausting air out of the case or pulling it in? Noticed you have same case as me, storm scout. I believe the H60 that you have should be better than my H50 but your running an intel chip so i don't know what temps should be for you


----------



## FreekyGTi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Darylrese*


My H50 idles at about 29 - 31 but thats with an AMD 1090T, load is around 43degrees. Are your fans exhausting air out of the case or pulling it in? Noticed you have same case as me, storm scout. I believe the H60 that you have should be better than my H50 but your running an intel chip so i don't know what temps should be for you


thanks for the reply

My fans are exhausting hot air out of the case...so

(outside of case)*<~~~~*Fan*~~~~*Rad*~~~~*Fan*~~~~*(inside of case)

yeah not sure what the temp difference is between amd and intel...but im just not sure if its cause everything needs a little time to break in or if the TIM isnt doing its job or if im just going bat shat crazy thinking there is something wrong


----------



## Swift Castiel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FreekyGTi*


thanks for the reply

My fans are exhausting hot air out of the case...so

(outside of case)*<~~~~*Fan*~~~~*Rad*~~~~*Fan*~~~~*(inside of case)

yeah not sure what the temp difference is between amd and intel...but im just not sure if its cause everything needs a little time to break in or if the TIM isnt doing its job or if im just going bat shat crazy thinking there is something wrong










I'm running a H60 as well, and you're getting better temps than I am since you're on an SB chip. At the moment my ambient is 12 so I get ~28C idles and on full load I get mid 50's to 60's On Prime Blend. So your temps are fine. Just remember, if it's not a modded H50/H60/H70, it won't be as drastic a change moving from air cooling.


----------



## FreekyGTi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Swift Castiel*


I'm running a H60 as well, and you're getting better temps than I am since you're on an SB chip. At the moment my ambient is 12 so I get ~28C idles and on full load I get mid 50's to 60's On Prime Blend. So your temps are fine. Just remember, if it's not a modded H50/H60/H70, it won't be as drastic a change moving from air cooling.


well thats kinda reassuring to know...yeah ambient temp here is about 22c +/- 2...its an A/C'ed house with a ceiling fan going...so its always changing and i dont have a 100% accurate way to measuring it...outside claims its 23c

idle temps only concern me cause i would like to OC this chip but if its getting high idle temps that doesnt bode well for my OC chances to be very high


----------



## FreekyGTi

I have another question about where to hook up the fans/pump to

in my build i hooked up the pump to a ch_fan and hooked 1 of my fans to another ch_fan and the other to the cpu_fan

would changing the connections around change anything? like maybe changing the pump to the pwr_fan header or to the cpu_fan header?

EDIT:doh! i meant to edit my other post instead i posted another post..sorry


----------



## Swift Castiel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FreekyGTi*


I have another question about where to hook up the fans/pump to

in my build i hooked up the pump to a ch_fan and hooked 1 of my fans to another ch_fan and the other to the cpu_fan

would changing the connections around change anything? like maybe changing the pump to the pwr_fan header or to the cpu_fan header?

EDIT:doh! i meant to edit my other post instead i posted another post..sorry


I can't help you on this one, sorry. My pull fan is one of the stock Antec Tri-Cools and connects via a molex connector, so only my Corsair push fan is pushing the air through. I'm sure someone'll answer you soon though.


----------



## Darylrese

I have the Pump connected to SYS_FAN and Radiator Fan connected to CPU_FAN header. Both of these can be controlled in BIOS or software.

I then loaded up Asus Fan Xpert and set my pump to 100% (disabled cool and quiet) and did the same for the fan. Not sure if your supposed to run the fan at 100% all the time or not...you can make a custom profile so when the CPU temperature rises, the fan increases in speed. This way you can have a silent idle computer and then performance when you need it


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FreekyGTi*


I have another question about where to hook up the fans/pump to

in my build i hooked up the pump to a ch_fan and hooked 1 of my fans to another ch_fan and the other to the cpu_fan

would changing the connections around change anything? like maybe changing the pump to the pwr_fan header or to the cpu_fan header?

EDIT:doh! i meant to edit my other post instead i posted another post..sorry


Your best bet is to hook up to the PWR header and adjust the setting to either 90%(That's what it is in my Formula BIOS) or Ignore which should run it at 100%.









~Ceadder


----------



## Darylrese

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Your best bet is to hook up to the PWR header and adjust the setting to either 90%(That's what it is in my Formula BIOS) or Ignore which should run it at 100%.









~Ceadder










I found on my motherboard, you cant change the PWR Header speed, its just fixed. You can monitor speed but can't change it for some reason. I think it must be throttled to 100%?


----------



## FreekyGTi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Darylrese*


I found on my motherboard, you cant change the PWR Header speed, its just fixed. You can monitor speed but can't change it for some reason. I think it must be throttled to 100%?


same on my asus p8p67...pwr_fan is 100%...i actually just swapped my pump to the pwr_fan...so now fans are on cpu_fan and ch_fan1 and pumps on pwr_fan

btw i for the life of me can not figure out the Fan Xpert thing from asus...its driving me up a wall...i set the fans to turbo mode in the EFI but they are still only running at like 1000rpm according to the fan xpert..POS! lol

anyways...does having the pump running at 4500rpm do any harm? i know it seems like its making a very slight humming sound now

and btw...still no damn temp changes...still sitting at 38c...RAWR!! i want to see that damn temp down to like 28-32c like i see others with H50-60-70's


----------



## Darylrese

4500rpm?!?!?!? It should only be running at 1400!!

Asus Fan Xpert is very simple for me. I just select CPU Fan, set it to 'User', find the RPM where fan starts to make noise and set it just below that for temps upto 38 degrees then set it to 100% once it reachs this temp. That means silent when idle and browsing net etc but full blast when playing games









SYS_FAN i leave to disabled so it runs at 100% (h50 pump)

Turbo mode actually sets your fans speed really low. You are best making a 'User profile and drag the blobs on the graph to how you want your fans to spin up. I only have 1 fan on my H50 at the moment exhausting out of the case as i dont have 2 identical fans at the moment. Tried it with the standard H50 fan and a LED fan but as one was molex and H50 was controlled by 3 pin it didnt work. Made about 1 degree difference idle

What i dont get about the h50 is no matter how fast you set the fan it doesnt really seem to make a lot of difference. Maybe 1 or 2 degrees.


----------



## FreekyGTi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Darylrese*


4500rpm?!?!?!? It should only be running at 1400!!

Asus Fan Xpert is very simple for me. I just select CPU Fan, set it to 'User', find the RPM where fan starts to make noise and set it just below that for temps upto 38 degrees then set it to 100% once it reachs this temp. That means silent when idle and browsing net etc but full blast when playing games









SYS_FAN i leave to disabled so it runs at 100% (h50 pump)

Turbo mode actually sets your fans speed really low. You are best making a 'User profile and drag the blobs on the graph to how you want your fans to spin up. I only have 1 fan on my H50 at the moment exhausting out of the case as i dont have 2 identical fans at the moment. Tried it with the standard H50 fan and a LED fan but as one was molex and H50 was controlled by 3 pin it didnt work. Made about 1 degree difference idle

What i dont get about the h50 is no matter how fast you set the fan it doesnt really seem to make a lot of difference. Maybe 1 or 2 degrees.



lol @ the 4500rpm...it isnt actually 4500 its 4340rpm running on the pwr_fan header

and yes after trying to break fan xpert i finally figured out how to use the "user" profile...so i have my 2 fans running at about 1300rpm and ive actually seen a drop in temps down to as low as 33 and its hovering right around 35 now on core #0 which is 3 degrees drop from bumping the speed of the fans up and moving pump over to the pwr_fan header

my concern is that im going to blow the pump up running at 4300rpm constantly...why wont they let use adjust the pwr_fan?


----------



## Darylrese

I really don't know how your pump is running at 4500rpm lol Thats 4 times faster than its supposed to run as farr as i know?!?! What is telling you its running at that speed?


----------



## FreekyGTi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Darylrese*


I really don't know how your pump is running at 4500rpm lol Thats 4 times faster than its supposed to run as farr as i know?!?! What is telling you its running at that speed?


Hwinfo32 and the Asus Suite

if you look at the screenshot you can see in hwinfo32 it shows chassis1,CPU and Power...and in Asus you can see the same info

Screenshot!


----------



## Devious ST

anyone know when the H60 gets released in the UK?


----------



## Darylrese

H60 has already been released:

http://www.novatech.co.uk/novatech/p...ng/CWCH60.html

http://www.ebuyer.com/product/264011


----------



## Darylrese

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FreekyGTi*


Hwinfo32 and the Asus Suite

if you look at the screenshot you can see in hwinfo32 it shows chassis1,CPU and Power...and in Asus you can see the same info

Screenshot!




Very odd. I'll check my settings when i get home and post a screen shot of mine!


----------



## FreekyGTi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese;13475639*
> Very odd. I'll check my settings when i get home and post a screen shot of mine!


good deal i look forward to seeing the differences

but after doing some reading and getting some sleep...im not happy with idle temps at all...so im going out and buying some AS5 and im going to clean off the H60 and apply some AS5 and see if that does any better...plus i may move the pump and fan connectors back to where they were and see if i can get the pump back to around 1000 rpm and also still have my fans running at 1100-1300 rpm...if none of that works i may also change the P/P system from exhaust to intake and see if that makes any difference

either way i gotta fix it...after seeing people with these coolers and comparable air coolers getting load temps 3-5 degrees cooler even sometimes more when they are OC'ed compared to what im getting at load on stock clocks


----------



## pjnix07

Just traded in my Kuhler 620 for an H60 - got to say I really do prefer the Corsair product over the Antec product. Plus Antec's customer service was very sub par IMO...

Anyway, quick question regarding the H60 and core temperatures. I'm getting very good temps on 2 cores, however the other 2 have a rather large delta between the other set. At idle, the delta is around 7; at load, the delta is around 13. The idle temps aren't a huge concern - it's the load temps that are troubling me. My question is: Should I re-position the cold plate on the CPU? Right now, the Corsair logo is upright (just as it's pictured on the box) against the CPU. I was told this is the right way to go.

I have a Q6600 CPU - it's a bit older...and I've been reading that the contact surface may just not be very compatible with the H60's unique cold plate. What are everyone's thoughts? Thanks in advance for the support, guys!


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pjnix07;13478095*
> Just traded in my Kuhler 620 for an H60 - got to say I really do prefer the Corsair product over the Antec product. Plus Antec's customer service was very sub par IMO...
> 
> Anyway, quick question regarding the H60 and core temperatures. I'm getting very good temps on 2 cores, however the other 2 have a rather large delta between the other set. At idle, the delta is around 7; at load, the delta is around 13. The idle temps aren't a huge concern - it's the load temps that are troubling me. My question is: Should I re-position the cold plate on the CPU? Right now, the Corsair logo is upright (just as it's pictured on the box) against the CPU. I was told this is the right way to go.
> 
> I have a Q6600 CPU - it's a bit older...and I've been reading that the contact surface may just not be very compatible with the H60's unique cold plate. What are everyone's thoughts? Thanks in advance for the support, guys!


Sounds to me like either your H60's heatsink is uneven or your TIM application is uneven. You might try reapplying the TIM and if you don't see a difference, lapping might be in order. If you are going to reseat it I would go ahead and check the heatsink while it's off to see how even it is.


----------



## pjnix07

Is the Corsair-supplied TIM usually not evenly applied? I have some AS5 that I can apply. I'll go ahead and check to see how the cold plate is contacting the CPU. I just can't escape these issues it seems!


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pjnix07;13478204*
> Is the Corsair-supplied TIM usually not evenly applied? I have some AS5 that I can apply. I'll go ahead and check to see how the cold plate is contacting the CPU. I just can't escape these issues it seems!


It should be, although they put a bit too much on it seems. Have you checked to make sure your pump is running at full speed? What kind of radiator/fan setup do you have?


----------



## pjnix07

I just used the Corsair fan that came with the H60 unit. I have my fan set up to intake air from the back of my case (Corsair 650D), push it through the radiator, where it is all ventilated through the top of the case.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pjnix07;13478300*
> I just used the Corsair fan that came with the H60 unit. I have my fan set up to intake air from the back of my case (Corsair 650D), push it through the radiator, where it is all ventilated through the top of the case.


Hmm... if the rad is in the back of the case it's usually better to set it up as an exhaust, since the GPU is exhausting hot air right below the rad, which then gets sucked through the rad and usually results in higher temps. You also might want to consider getting a better fan or two and setting it up in push/pull to increase your temps.


----------



## pjnix07

I've gone ahead and repositioned the cold plate/pump on the CPU so the Corsair logo is perpendicular to the bottom of the case. I've also re-applied AS5 TIM. I'm getting much better temps this way, and this is even before the AS5 has settled in!

It was definitely an issue of contact on the chip - literally half of the CPU wasn't getting touched by the cold plate! I just think the 'default' way the unit sits on the CPU just wasn't right for my processor (Q6600). Now I just think I put a LITTLE too much TIM on the CPU; let the nit-picking begin!


----------



## Jyve

I'm not an AS5 hater, there are a few on here that are. That being said, I do believe that the stuff packaged with the h50/60/70 is a fair amount better. Like a previous poster stated, though, they put WAY too much on. I think you'd have been better off scraping a bunch of the stock stuff off and evenly spreading it around than replacing with AS5. I found this out AFTER removing the stock TIM. Just my 2 cents.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pjnix07;13480418*
> I've gone ahead and repositioned the cold plate/pump on the CPU so the Corsair logo is perpendicular to the bottom of the case. I've also re-applied AS5 TIM. I'm getting much better temps this way, and this is even before the AS5 has settled in!
> 
> It was definitely an issue of contact on the chip - literally half of the CPU wasn't getting touched by the cold plate! I just think the 'default' way the unit sits on the CPU just wasn't right for my processor (Q6600). Now I just think I put a LITTLE too much TIM on the CPU; let the nit-picking begin!










... by the way, if you go to User CP, and then click on the Add System button on the left side, you can add your rig to your sig so other people can see what you have and help you more effectively if you have problems in the future.


----------



## vf-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve;13480550*
> I'm not an AS5 hater, there are a few on here that are. That being said, I do believe that the stuff packaged with the h50/60/70 is a fair amount better. Like a previous poster stated, though, they put WAY too much on. I think you'd have been better off scraping a bunch of the stock stuff off and evenly spreading it around than replacing with AS5. I found this out AFTER removing the stock TIM. Just my 2 cents.


Or buy a tube for £4. Shin Etsu x23.
Quote:


> Shin-Etsu X23-7762 Thermal Compound 1g
> 
> Shin-Etsu X23-7762 Thermal Compound (Model X23-7762) - This thermal interface compound is developed by Shin Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. to meet the current and future requirements of high performance microprocessors. It is used to increase surface contact area for heat transfer by minimizing any air bubbles that exists between the top of the processor and the base of the heat sink.
> 
> Features
> 
> High performance thermal grease. Good for general applications. More forgiving in situations where the heatsink block is not a perfect finish.
> Injector with cap for easy application and storage
> 1gm syringe (comes in 1cc syringe)
> Thermal Conductivity: 6.0 (W/m K)
> Electrically non-conductive
> Viscosity: (Pa.s @ 25C) 180
> Storage Conditions 60 F to 85 F (15 C - 29 C)


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vf-*


Or buy a tube for Â£4. Shin Etsu x23.


Shin etsu is good. I think AS5 is pretty good too, it just has a very long cure time, whereas shin etsu has almost none.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


Shin etsu is good. I think AS5 is pretty good too, it just has a very long cure time, whereas shin etsu has almost none.


The cure time is none


----------



## pjnix07

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*









... by the way, if you go to User CP, and then click on the Add System button on the left side, you can add your rig to your sig so other people can see what you have and help you more effectively if you have problems in the future.


Will do! +rep


----------



## FreekyGTi

ok guys a little bit of an update from my last post in here

so i've swapped out my H60 for the stock Intel HSF and im seeing temped about 2 degrees hotter with the Intel HSF than i did with the H60

so does that tell me my H60 is a dud or that my cpu is basicly the







and runs hot?

what do you guys suggest i do?


----------



## nitewulf

What am I doing wrong, guys. I have a 965 CO (i7 Bloomfield) OC'd to 4009.3.
Idle with the H70 is mid 40's and prime95 send temp's into the low 90's c.
I've reseated the pump unit 3 times, latest today using MX4. I've tried the Corsair fans in both intake and exhaust and am presently using 2 GT AP-15s in exhaust mode. When seating the pump, I simply held up the bracket with one hand and turned the unit so the lugs line up underneath the lugs on the bracket and tightened the screws down snug. The unit appears tight. I was thinking that it should lock into place with a "click" , but apparently the bracket lugs simply hold it in place or I'm doing something wrong. In any event, guess I'll RMA it and try something else that works better.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Swift Castiel*


My Corsair H60 in all its glory <3










Very nice. I like the white LED strip. Looks good.


----------



## nicolasl46

Well, typhoon 5400 are worst than a vacuum cleaner, i need to modify the connector, because the power comes from a molex, and the fan header only has a yellow wire for the mobo to read the speed, i will try to take the power and ground wire from the molex, and add them to the 3pin fan connector so i can control the speed


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicolasl46*


Well, typhoon 5400 are worst than a vacuum cleaner, i need to modify the connector, because the power comes from a molex, and the fan header only has a yellow wire for the mobo to read the speed, i will try to take the power and ground wire from the molex, and add them to the 3pin fan connector so i can control the speed










Do you have a fan controller or can your motherboard control 3 pin fans?

I listened to the noise in your video. Wow, loud. Nice test too. At 1.14A power draw, careful what you plug them into.


----------



## nicolasl46

Tried the mobo controls, but it wont go slower than 3500rpm. Im buying a fan controller tomorrow at micro center, for $19 you cant go wrong


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nitewulf*


What am I doing wrong, guys. I have a 965 CO (i7 Bloomfield) OC'd to 4009.3.
Idle with the H70 is mid 40's and prime95 send temp's into the low 90's c.
I've reseated the pump unit 3 times, latest today using MX4. I've tried the Corsair fans in both intake and exhaust and am presently using 2 GT AP-15s in exhaust mode. When seating the pump, I simply held up the bracket with one hand and turned the unit so the lugs line up underneath the lugs on the bracket and tightened the screws down snug. The unit appears tight. I was thinking that it should lock into place with a "click" , but apparently the bracket lugs simply hold it in place or I'm doing something wrong. In any event, guess I'll RMA it and try something else that works better.










Well I wouldn't RMA it just yet.

40 is a reasonable temp on the i7 Bloomfields. This is assuming your CPU isn't lapped and you're putting the H70 into your system stock.

What you need to do is make a shroud and replace the fans. Remember Prime95 is a stressor. It's not going to be running 24/7.

I would replace the fans, lapp the block and make a shroud and THEN see what you got going on. Make sure the pipes on your radiator are at their lowest point to guard against stoppage in flow.

I have the H50 but the H70 is supposed to be better than the H50.

One other thing you should do is play around with different locations and Exhaust compared to Intake.

There is nothing wrong with your cooler, near as I can tell anyway.









~Ceadder


----------



## xira

my h50 will be a year old next month and i'll be using it on the new build in my sig. question: should i definitely absolutely replace it or buy a different cooler after the warranty is up for safety?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xira*


my h50 will be a year old next month and i'll be using it on the new build in my sig. question: should i definitely absolutely replace it or buy a different cooler after the warranty is up for safety?


tear that thing apart and add a res to it.


----------



## DarkAudit

Wondering what I could get out of some more powerful fans. I moved the original case exhaust fan to side intake, and using the stock fan pull and a Rocketfish fan from Best Buy push exhausting out. Prime95 small FFT tops out at 68C with this setup and a 4.6GHz OC.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkAudit;13488432*
> Wondering what I could get out of some more powerful fans. I moved the original case exhaust fan to side intake, and using the stock fan pull and a Rocketfish fan from Best Buy push exhausting out. Prime95 small FFT tops out at 68C with this setup and a 4.6GHz OC.


Doesn't sound like too bad temps to me... I know the intels generally run a little hotter than the AMD chips under load. One thing you could do to try and improve temps is throw a shroud in there. That would probably be one of the cheapest and easiest things to do.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicolasl46;13485264*
> Tried the mobo controls, but it wont go slower than 3500rpm. Im buying a fan controller tomorrow at micro center, for $19 you cant go wrong


Did you try using Asus AI Suite? That's what I use to control my 3k Ultra Kaze's and it works well, plus you can set it up to increase fan speed as the temps increase.


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13488626*
> Did you try using Asus AI Suite? That's what I use to control my 3k Ultra Kaze's and it works well, plus you can set it up to increase fan speed as the temps increase.


I did try that, but if I set it up on silent they still spinning at over 3k, and thats once windows finishes loading, and thats a good 30-45secs of vacuum noise LOL. I'm guessing with a fan controller I will be able to control fan speed from power up and on.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicolasl46;13488782*
> I did try that, but if I set it up on silent they still spinning at over 3k, and thats once windows finishes loading, and thats a good 30-45secs of vacuum noise LOL. I'm guessing with a fan controller I will be able to control fan speed from power up and on.


I would assume so. I've never used a fan controller so I don't know for sure. There is a User setting in AI Suite that allows you to set the speed lower I believe. In user you can set up the little graph that shows fan speed corresponding to temperature, so you should be able to set it lower than the Silent setting.


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13488801*
> I would assume so. I've never used a fan controller so I don't know for sure. There is a User setting in AI Suite that allows you to set the speed lower I believe. In user you can set up the little graph that shows fan speed corresponding to temperature, so you should be able to set it lower than the Silent setting.


That would be at 20% and its freaking loud LOL. Silent mode nor User mode is working for me. I already ordered a fan controller that will match my case, I'm going to pick it up during lunch time, and instal it once I get back from work, and let you know how it works.


----------



## Ceadderman

I use the RheoSmart 3. Works like a charm on mine. Though I do have the P/P kit running through the PWM setup. So the MoBo still controls the P/P. I use one of the spare channels to control the bottom fan to the point of being able to shut it off by undervolting it. When I get a couple more fans in Darkside, I'll be hooking them up to the Controller.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## nitewulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13485379*
> Well I wouldn't RMA it just yet.
> 
> 40 is a reasonable temp on the i7 Bloomfields. This is assuming your CPU isn't lapped and you're putting the H70 into your system stock.
> 
> What you need to do is make a shroud and replace the fans. Remember Prime95 is a stressor. It's not going to be running 24/7.
> 
> I would replace the fans, lapp the block and make a shroud and THEN see what you got going on. Make sure the pipes on your radiator are at their lowest point to guard against stoppage in flow.
> 
> I have the H50 but the H70 is supposed to be better than the H50.
> 
> One other thing you should do is play around with different locations and Exhaust compared to Intake.
> 
> There is nothing wrong with your cooler, near as I can tell anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Thanks, Ceadderman. I've replaced the fans with GT AP-15s which seem to do pretty good and are quieter. I'm going to see if I can lower my cpu voltage a little more and that might help. I might see if i can change the position of the radiator too.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitewulf;13489383*
> Thanks, Ceadderman. I've replaced the fans with GT AP-15s which seem to do pretty good and are quieter. I'm going to see if I can lower my cpu voltage a little more and that might help. I might see if i can change the position of the radiator too.


No problem. Mine is set up in Exhaust at the top of my 932. Which keeps my H50 running silently. Does expel some hot gases out the top when I'm Folding. Right now I could probably put cook up some fish if I put it on tin foil over the top of my P/P setup.

But I definitely recommend a fan with good static pressure. My Yate Loons have a good SP Rating while GTs' don't have as good of a SP rating. I don't have the info handy but you can look up Yate-Loon here on OCN, I'm sure you'll stumble over one or two good links showing a comparison of Static Pressure Ratings.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13489723*
> No problem. Mine is set up in Exhaust at the top of my 932. Which keeps my H50 running silently. Does expel some hot gases out the top when I'm Folding. Right now I could probably put cook up some fish if I put it on tin foil over the top of my P/P setup.
> 
> *But I definitely recommend a fan with good static pressure.* My Yate Loons have a good SP Rating while GTs' don't have as good of a SP rating. I don't have the info handy but you can look up Yate-Loon here on OCN, I'm sure you'll stumble over one or two good links showing a comparison of Static Pressure Ratings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


This. When it comes to radiators, the higher the fpi (fins per inch), the higher the static pressure needed to cool well. The H50 rad has around 20fpi, which is pretty high. To put it in perspective, the XSPC RX120 rad, which is a popular one, has 8fpi. The ap-15's are very good on low fpi rads, but in your case, may not work as well.


----------



## FreekyGTi

Well i think im RMA'ing my H60 and going air cooling...im not happy about it...but i think it needs to be done...not sure if my H60 is just a dud from factory but so far its not lived up to my hopes


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreekyGTi;13490760*
> Well i think im RMA'ing my H60 and going air cooling...im not happy about it...but i think it needs to be done...not sure if my H60 is just a dud from factory but so far its not lived up to my hopes


How is your H60 set up? Where is the rad, what kind of fans are on it... etc..


----------



## Krusher33

Corsair has extended their warranty on H60's from 2 to 5 years.

http://www.legitreviews.com/news/10654/


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreekyGTi;13490760*
> Well i think im RMA'ing my H60 and going air cooling...im not happy about it...but i think it needs to be done...not sure if my H60 is just a dud from factory but so far its not lived up to my hopes


Dude, what's your temps; is it Intake or Exhaust; how do you have it set up?

You should be able to get nearly 5Ghz OC on that H60.










~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33;13490787*
> Corsair has extended their warranty on H60's from 2 to 5 years.
> 
> http://www.legitreviews.com/news/10654/


This is interesting... I wonder if there's a reasoning behind it? Does the H70 have a 5 year warranty? If not, why are they just offering it for the H60?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13490805*
> This is interesting... I wonder if there's a reasoning behind it? Does the H70 have a 5 year warranty? If not, why are they just offering it for the H60?


The standard warranty on Acetek coolers is 2 years. The Cool-It warrany I believe is 5. So that would account for the "extended" warranty on the H60 being that it's a rebadged Cool-It system.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## FreekyGTi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13490784*
> How is your H60 set up? Where is the rad, what kind of fans are on it... etc..


rad is in the back with 2 noctua 120mm set up as a P/P exhausting out the back at the moment...but its been every which way as a setup

in my opinion from reading and seeing posts like this one: http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/1013622-first-time-overclocker-needs-your-opinion.html

to be running at 4ghz and hitting 61c on a blend test is just unacceptable...now i understand testing and comparing cpu's and coolers and what not is tricky and not every one of the parameters isnt exactly the same...but come on 61c at 4ghz?


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreekyGTi;13490832*
> rad is in the back with 2 noctua 120mm set up as a P/P exhausting out the back at the moment...but its been every which way as a setup
> 
> in my opinion from reading and seeing posts like this one: http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/1013622-first-time-overclocker-needs-your-opinion.html
> 
> to be running at 4ghz and hitting 61c on a blend test is just unacceptable...now i understand testing and comparing cpu's and coolers and what not is tricky and not every one of the parameters isnt exactly the same...but come on 61c at 4ghz?


Hmm... have you tried reseating the cooler? Making sure the heatsink is in full contact? Are you for sure the pump is running at 100%?

@ceadder I was unaware that the H50 and H70 came from a different manufacturer than the H60.


----------



## FreekyGTi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13490887*
> Hmm... have you tried reseating the cooler? Making sure the heatsink is in full contact? Are you for sure the pump is running at 100%?


ive seated and reseated and rerereseated that cooler at least 6 times now...rotating the pump so that the connectors are on the right side,left side,bottom and top on the mainboard...ive tried 3 different type of TIM

the cooler is making full contact...im getting a decent spread of TIM...its not the greatest ive seen but its full covering the necessary parts

pump wire has been moved to all the available fan headers on the mainboard...cpu_fan,pwr_fan and ch_fan and depending on header it can run as slow as 900rpm and as fast at 4400rpm....according to Corsair the pump can only run at a max rpm of 1200 so it reading of 4400 is probably catching it in like a triple duty type thing...cant really explain it

so im at my wits end and im on the verge of just RMA'ing the cooler and going with something that proven to be a good cooler like the hyper 212+ or something similar


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FreekyGTi*


ive seated and reseated and rerereseated that cooler at least 6 times now...rotating the pump so that the connectors are on the right side,left side,bottom and top on the mainboard...ive tried 3 different type of TIM

the cooler is making full contact...im getting a decent spread of TIM...its not the greatest ive seen but its full covering the necessary parts

pump wire has been moved to all the available fan headers on the mainboard...cpu_fan,pwr_fan and ch_fan and depending on header it can run as slow as 900rpm and as fast at 4400rpm....according to Corsair the pump can only run at a max rpm of 1200 so it reading of 4400 is probably catching it in like a triple duty type thing...cant really explain it

so im at my wits end and im on the verge of just RMA'ing the cooler and going with something that proven to be a good cooler like the hyper 212+ or something similar


It seems like you've been pretty thorough, so maybe you're right. Sorry things haven't worked out for you.


----------



## FreekyGTi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13490951*
> It seems like you've been pretty thorough, so maybe you're right. Sorry things haven't worked out for you.


i try to be...ive been doing this a long time...granted i dont know everything but i know enough and seen enough to try and troubleshoot till there is only a couple options left

btw ive even tried the stock intel HSF and it only ran 2 degrees hotter at idle and 4 degrees hotter on load...so that right there is kinda telling

but my concern is...is it REALLY the cooler thats the issue or could it be the cpu is just being a redheaded step child and just getting hot headed cause its a bad chip

but i will say...i was able to OC this chip to 4.5ghz at 1.2v and it was stable for 30min at 69c...so im leaning on the cooler now


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FreekyGTi*


i try to be...ive been doing this a long time...granted i dont know everything but i know enough and seen enough to try and troubleshoot till there is only a couple options left

btw ive even tried the stock intel HSF and it only ran 2 degrees hotter at idle and 4 degrees hotter on load...so that right there is kinda telling

but my concern is...is it REALLY the cooler thats the issue or could it be the cpu is just being a redheaded step child and just getting hot headed cause its a bad chip

but i will say...i was able to OC this chip to 4.5ghz at 1.2v and it was stable for 30min at 69c...so im leaning on the cooler now


What's your average ambient temp? This might be a contributing factor. Also have you tried fans other than Noctua? I like Noctua, but I'm not sure they're as good as advertised for their price. I've spent a whopping $24 on Yate Loons before shipping and I have 6 of them. Yates have excellent Static Pressure IMHO.









~Ceadder


----------



## FreekyGTi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


What's your average ambient temp? This might be a contributing factor. Also have you tried fans other than Noctua? I like Noctua, but I'm not sure they're as good as advertised for their price. I've spent a whopping $24 on Yate Loons before shipping and I have 6 of them. Yates have excellent Static Pressure IMHO.









~Ceadder










ambient in my house is about 23c so about 73f and outside its hot about 29c or about 85f....but how my case is setup right now...i have a ceiling fan blowing down on the case along with the AC vent directed right into the case side window

i have tried other fans...but only 120mm R4's which oddly enough raised the temp a little...i think its cause the as too fast @2000rpm....i didnt bother with throttling them down at all as they are fans i was going to use in my side window when i get my plexi window back

honestly...i think its really a dud cooler....im not sure going to another h60 is smart or even trying an h50 as i cant afford an h70


----------



## nicolasl46

I've just bought a LOGISYS FP201BK fan controller for about $20, going to put that in today and see if I can shush those 5400rpm typhoons LOL, I just hope it works to my expectations LOL


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicolasl46*


I've just bought a LOGISYS FP201BK fan controller for about $20, going to put that in today and see if I can shush those 5400rpm typhoons LOL, I just hope it works to my expectations LOL



Quote:



Regulated max power output:<30W


I'm not sure if this is max power for entire unit or just one line.

Source: http://www.logisyscomputer.com/views...DID=FRONTPANEL


----------



## pjnix07

Quick question regarding mother board fan control. Should I keep it disabled, or enable it with regards to the H60? I've heard conflicting stories regarding the mother board fan control in the BIOS...


----------



## Munkypoo7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pjnix07*


Quick question regarding mother board fan control. Should I keep it disabled, or enable it with regards to the H60? I've heard conflicting stories regarding the mother board fan control in the BIOS...


You could... but there's really no point imo.

Easier to set it at a certain speed and be done with it :\\

Whatever you do, make sure you have the pump hooked up to a constant, non tampered 3 pin fan header... last thing you need is for the pump to not get all the power it needs


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FreekyGTi*


i try to be...ive been doing this a long time...granted i dont know everything but i know enough and seen enough to try and troubleshoot till there is only a couple options left

btw ive even tried the stock intel HSF and it only ran 2 degrees hotter at idle and 4 degrees hotter on load...so that right there is kinda telling

but my concern is...is it REALLY the cooler thats the issue or could it be the cpu is just being a redheaded step child and just getting hot headed cause its a bad chip

but i will say...i was able to OC this chip to 4.5ghz at 1.2v and it was stable for 30min at 69c...so im leaning on the cooler now


I have to ask, are you running the latest BIOS for your board,...seems odd it's showing 4400rpm, only 2 to 4 degrees difference to stock cooler AND you're able to o/c to [email protected] stable. To me 69c for 4.5GHz o/c is pretty good compared to my chip


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krusher33*


I'm not sure if this is max power for entire unit or just one line.

Source: http://www.logisyscomputer.com/views...DID=FRONTPANEL


I'm sorry, I'm not to tech savvy, you saying that the two typhoons are going to draw more power than the unit can handle? But that would be at full speed, right? Fan description only states the 12v and 1.14 amps, so, according to my lost knowledge, that adds up to 13.68watts x 2 fans = 27.36 watts. How many watts is the H50 pump?


----------



## FreekyGTi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *clubfoot*


I have to ask, are you running the latest BIOS for your board,...seems odd it's showing 4400rpm, only 2 to 4 degrees difference to stock cooler AND you're able to o/c to [email protected] stable. To me 69c for 4.5GHz o/c is pretty good compared to my chip










Yup EFI is up to date with the latest Asus release...even the guy at Corsair didnt know why it was showing 4400 rpm...i posted a screenshot of it a few pages back if you care to look at it









the 2 to 4 degree difference wasnt on an OC it was with stock clocks when i was seeing idle temps at around 36-38c thats where the 2 to 4 degrees came in...funny part about the temps on the stock clock...i OC'ed it to 4ghz up from 3.7ghz and im actually seeing lower idle temps than i did on stock...only hitting a max of 36c and hovering mostly at the 34-35 mark

i was very happy to see the cpu handle 4.5ghz on stock voltages...but was disappointed in the temps i saw....there was a post on here a week or so ago showing someone with a 2500k at 4.5ghz with a blend temp at around 60c +/- 2 degrees if i remember correctly...then this morning someone posted a 2500k at 4.2ghz with a blend temp at 54c

either way...ive RMA'ed my H60 and now the hunt starts for a new cooler...no idea what im going to get


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicolasl46*


I'm sorry, I'm not to tech savvy, you saying that the two typhoons are going to draw more power than the unit can handle? But that would be at full speed, right? Fan description only states the 12v and 1.14 amps, so, according to my lost knowledge, that adds up to 13.68watts x 2 fans = 27.36 watts. How many watts is the H50 pump?


To my unstable knowledge you are correct.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FreekyGTi*


ambient in my house is about 23c so about 73f and outside its hot about 29c or about 85f....but how my case is setup right now...i have a ceiling fan blowing down on the case along with the AC vent directed right into the case side window

i have tried other fans...but only 120mm R4's which oddly enough raised the temp a little...i think its cause the as too fast @2000rpm....i didnt bother with throttling them down at all as they are fans i was going to use in my side window when i get my plexi window back

honestly...i think its really a dud cooler....im not sure going to another h60 is smart or even trying an h50 as i cant afford an h70


I've got an H50 and my temps don't go over 51-54C on full loads.


----------



## czynot

i upgraded my aircool to the H70 recently. I notice idle temperture is lower with air cool.
Under load temperture is lower with H70.
idle : 78F air cool, 90F H70. Load: 120-1400F air cool, 110-120F H70. room temp @ 75F. 2600k OC 4.6ghz

I was wondering if the cooling liquid ever need to be change? if it is even possible. I dont see anywhere there is a drain valve.


----------



## nitewulf

Does anyone know what the correct pump speed should be for the H50? Connected to cpu MB header (3 pin), it's showing at approx. 1360 rpm in HWM. Is this about right?


----------



## Munkypoo7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nitewulf*


Does anyone know what the correct pump speed should be for the H50? Connected to cpu MB header (3 pin), it's showing at approx. 1360 rpm in HWM. Is this about right?


My H70 is at 1350 rpm steady, so you are spot on me thinks


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *czynot*


i upgraded my aircool to the H70 recently. I notice idle temperture is lower with air cool.
Under load temperture is lower with H70.
idle : 78F air cool, 90F H70. Load: 120-1400F air cool, 110-120F H70. room temp @ 75F. 2600k OC 4.6ghz

I was wondering if the cooling liquid ever need to be change? if it is even possible. I dont see anywhere there is a drain valve.


It's part of the reason why we always ask for load temps when trouble shooting issues. I don't know the details but simply put, idle temps are hardly ever right on both AMD and Intel chips.

As I understand it, they never need changing.


----------



## pjnix07

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Munkypoo7*


You could... but there's really no point imo.

Easier to set it at a certain speed and be done with it :\\

Whatever you do, make sure you have the pump hooked up to a constant, non tampered 3 pin fan header... last thing you need is for the pump to not get all the power it needs










How do I go about setting the speed of the pump?


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krusher33*


To my unstable knowledge you are correct.


Lol, thanks for the help. Just finished installing, and it works great. I left the pump connected to the mobo so i wouldnt add more power draw to the controller.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreekyGTi;13491279*
> ambient in my house is about 23c so about 73f and outside its hot about 29c or about 85f....but how my case is setup right now...i have a ceiling fan blowing down on the case along with the AC vent directed right into the case side window
> 
> i have tried other fans...but only 120mm R4's which oddly enough raised the temp a little...i think its cause the as too fast @2000rpm....i didnt bother with throttling them down at all as they are fans i was going to use in my side window when i get my plexi window back
> 
> honestly...i think its really a dud cooler....im not sure going to another h60 is smart or even trying an h50 as i cant afford an h70


Well there is a guy in the Crosshair thread that has an H50 sitting in a box. You want I should ask him about it? I'm sure he'd let you have it cheap. I love my H50. It's an excellent cooler and it keeps my system nice and chilly. Because I'm Folding 24/7 for Chimp Challenge my CPU is posting 47c at 100% at 17c ambient. When I'm not at 100% the H50 keeps my CPU a respectable 30c @ idle in the same ambient temps.

You just might have gotten a bum cooler though. Sucks but it happens with any Computer part it seems.









@pjnix... You can't change the speed of the pump. Not the way I think you mean anyway. You have to go into the BIOS and set the fan speed to full speed. Either in percentage or in temp or by ignore.








~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## FreekyGTi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13496598*
> Well there is a guy in the Crosshair thread that has an H50 sitting in a box. You want I should ask him about it? I'm sure he'd let you have it cheap. I love my H50. It's an excellent cooler and it keeps my system nice and chilly. Because I'm Folding 24/7 for Chimp Challenge my CPU is posting 47c at 100% at 17c ambient. When I'm not at 100% the H50 keeps my CPU a respectable 30c @ idle in the same ambient temps.
> 
> You just might have gotten a bum cooler though. Sucks but it happens with any Computer part it seems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @pjnix... You can't change the speed of the pump. Not the way I think you mean anyway. You have to go into the BIOS and set the fan speed to full speed. Either in percentage or in temp or by ignore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I appreciate the offer...but im just going to RMA this H60 back to newegg and purchase something from them with the credit

im actually considering buying an H50 and trying it out...cause it seems most people either use the H50 or H70 and getting good or even great results compared to the people ive seen with H60's

its either try an H50 or go for a tower cooler like the 212+ or something similar


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13496598*
> Well there is a guy in the Crosshair thread that has an H50 sitting in a box. You want I should ask him about it? I'm sure he'd let you have it cheap. I love my H50. It's an excellent cooler and it keeps my system nice and chilly. Because I'm Folding 24/7 for Chimp Challenge my CPU is posting 47c at 100% at 17c ambient. When I'm not at 100% the H50 keeps my CPU a respectable 30c @ idle in the same ambient temps.
> 
> You just might have gotten a bum cooler though. Sucks but it happens with any Computer part it seems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @pjnix... You can't change the speed of the pump. Not the way I think you mean anyway. You have to go into the BIOS and set the fan speed to full speed. Either in percentage or in temp or by ignore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


you could change the speed of the pump if you connect it to a fan speed controller.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13497165*
> you could change the speed of the pump if you connect it to a fan speed controller.


You could. But the pump is meant to run at 100%. That's what makes these coolers so excellent. Fiddling with the pump speed isn't recommended. That's why Corsair says to connect the lead to anything but the CPU header.

Heck I could probably connect mine to the CPU header(RoG options FTW!







) since I can set the CPU to 100%. But I want to make certain that something doesn't crop up that would reset my BIOS. On the PWR header it's set to Max at Default. Though I would have to reset it to 90% which runs the pump at 1340rpm.









The fans are the thing that should be hooked to a fan controller not the pump.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## THC Butterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13497340*
> You could. But the pump is meant to run at 100%. That's what makes these coolers so excellent. Fiddling with the pump speed isn't recommended. That's why Corsair says to connect the lead to anything but the CPU header.
> 
> Heck I could probably connect mine to the CPU header(RoG options FTW!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) since I can set the CPU to 100%. But I want to make certain that something doesn't crop up that would reset my BIOS. On the PWR header it's set to Max at Default. Though I would have to reset it to 90% which runs the pump at 1340rpm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fans are the thing that should be hooked to a fan controller not the pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> true, and no argument, i was simply stating it can be done
> ~Ceadder:drink:


true, and no argument, i was simply stating it can be done


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THC Butterz;13497796*
> true, and no argument, i was simply stating it can be done


No it can't.









Okay just an update on the OP front.

I contacted Blitz6804 to see if he could start a nomination post and poll the group with the results.

So think of who you'd like to take over as the Group Chair and nominate them or yourself. We just need someone to caretake the Group. Nothing fancy, since everything is pretty much in place as it is. Unfortunately when you have new technology introduced and it needs to be added there has to be someone around to handle the duty.

Having had issues in the past, I take myself out of the running. Especially since I plan to go full water in the near future. But these are great coolers so we need someone to represent.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13497891*
> No it can't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay just an update on the OP front.
> 
> I contacted Blitz6804 to see if he could start a nomination post and poll the group with the results.
> 
> So think of who you'd like to take over as the Group Chair and nominate them or yourself. We just need someone to caretake the Group. Nothing fancy, since everything is pretty much in place as it is. Unfortunately when you have new technology introduced and it needs to be added there has to be someone around to handle the duty.
> 
> Having had issues in the past, I take myself out of the running. Especially since I plan to go full water in the near future. But these are great coolers so we need someone to represent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Man, you were the obvious choice. You participate here more than anyone else does. If you go full water, couldn't we still keep you as an honorable member? I don't know anyone else who's been here as long as you and participates as much as you do, and is willing to put the time into it too.


----------



## weircc

was wondering if you guys could help me out i just switched over from an asus triton 81 cooling to the h70 also switched to ic diamond and my temps did not really change i used pee sized drop of paste like they recommended any suggestions would help thanks fyi tower is haf 922 runs 80c under load


----------



## Killhouse

Hey All,

Its been brought to my attention lately that I haven't really been up-to-date with the first post content lately. And that there has been some competition in regards to the "ownership" of this thread.

I must say that I'm not really willing to lose all the hard work that I put into this club - I was the predominant knowledge-base for almost 10,000 posts. Though I am well-aware that the first post is in need of updates.

You will see that I have updated the first post already with some minor changes, but now I need your help to make it a "community page". I have moved the links list into a public google spreadsheet so that you can all add relevant links for the hydro-series. Would be good if any of you knows of a lapping guide we could add.

I also encourage you to PM me with FAQ items - including the question and answer. I'm obviously missing a lot of information on the H60/H70 (as I don't own them myself!), so would appreciate that. Of course, you'll be acknowledged for your input. Here's some ideas to get the ball rolling - pump speeds, dimensions, TIM, etc..

Following shapiror06's suggestion I have added some more information into the owner's list section. It may take a while to catch on, but he was hoping the result would be more helpful to new buyers.

If you have any more ideas feel free to PM me so we can discuss how they can be implemented.

Help me to help you,

~Killhouse


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *weircc*


was wondering if you guys could help me out i just switched over from an asus triton 81 cooling to the h70 also switched to ic diamond and my temps did not really change i used pee sized drop of paste like they recommended any suggestions would help thanks fyi tower is haf 922 runs 80c under load


Is your H70 stock or have you made the recommended fan changes and added a shroud? You'd be surprised at how much of a difference different fans and a shroud can make.

IC7 is decent enough, but since you've removed the stock TIM did you lapp the plate or did you just scrape the stock stuff off and replace it with the IC7? This is someplace to look because a few people have reported back that their plate was concave. The degree of which I cannot comment on not being in the same area code. Still it's a place to look. If you have it off again grab a razor and give it the daylight test.









And lastly, when talking about your CPU cooler and temps it would be good to know what the ambient temp is. Not to poke fun or anything but your ambient temp could be 32c or higher. Not that it is but not knowing the ambient temp is a bit of an obstacle when attempting to help someone suss out their cooler issues.









I would say that your Intel i7 CPU reports back 10c > actual temp. So there is something to be said for that. Basically you're running 70c at full load. Still isn't good but try different places in your case if you can. Try mounting it in the front bay to suck in cool air in the front. I doubt that you wish to give up the 200 up top but you might try mounting the H70 there just for kicks and make it an exhaust fan and mount a fan at the back of the 5.25 bay to draw cooler air into the area.

You might also cheeck the HAF club and see if anyone else has some ideas of how to mount it in your 922. I have a 932 and my cooler is mounted up top since I have the extra fan mount up top. Kind of hard to believe that the 922 didn't have one to start with being the younger bro to the 932.









Well anyway hope these insights help you. And welcome to the club.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Hey All,

Its been brought to my attention lately that I haven't really been up-to-date with the first post content lately. And that there has been some competition in regards to the "ownership" of this thread.

I must say that I'm not really willing to lose all the hard work that I put into this club - I was the predominant knowledge-base for almost 10,000 posts. Though I am well-aware that the first post is in need of updates.

You will see that I have updated the first post already with some minor changes, but now I need your help to make it a "community page". I have moved the links list into a public google spreadsheet so that you can all add relevant links for the hydro-series. Would be good if any of you knows of a lapping guide we could add.

I also encourage you to PM me with FAQ items - including the question and answer. I'm obviously missing a lot of information on the H60/H70 (as I don't own them myself!), so would appreciate that. Of course, you'll be acknowledged for your input. Here's some ideas to get the ball rolling - pump speeds, dimensions, TIM, etc..

Following shapiror06's suggestion I have added some more information into the owner's list section. It may take a while to catch on, but he was hoping the result would be more helpful to new buyers.

If you have any more ideas feel free to PM me so we can discuss how they can be implemented.

Help me to help you,

~Killhouse











I wouldn't say it was a competition Mate. You've just been on extended walkabout and people were asking about adding to the club. We're just wanting to look after your baby and give it the care that it deserves.


















*Edit* Just tried to re-add myself and cannot since the spreadsheet isn't editable.







*ediT*
~Ceadder


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I wouldn't say it was a competition Mate. You've just been on extended walkabout and people were asking about adding to the club. We're just wanting to look after your baby and give it the care that it deserves.


















~Ceadder










Ah Ceadder, my old friend









I'm still keen to keep the first post as informative as possible, but I can't do that alone anymore (I don't believe anyone can!). I think we should all try and work together to improve the content.

I've received one or two PMs in the last few months, and have acted upon them. But if people could PM me with all the suggestions and content additions I would be most grateful.

I'll take this opportunity to thank you personally for all the useful information you've added to this thread, surely you must have some suggestions for me?









~Killhouse


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Ah Ceadder, my old friend









I'm still keen to keep the first post as informative as possible, but I can't do that alone anymore (I don't believe anyone can!). I think we should all try and work together to improve the content.

I've received one or two PMs in the last few months, and have acted upon them. But if people could PM me with all the suggestions and content additions I would be most grateful.

I'll take this opportunity to thank you personally for all the useful information you've added to this thread, surely you must have some suggestions for me?









~Killhouse


Actually I think you've handled the suggests I would have had already.









But the spreadsheed isn't editable. I tried double clicking on it and even right clicking. Nothing.









~Ceadder


----------



## Killhouse

Which spreadsheet exactly? There should be an edit button at the bottom :/


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Which spreadsheet exactly? There should be an edit button at the bottom :/


The member sheet. I haven't tried the other one since I don't have any links to add.









~Ceadder


----------



## Killhouse

Aha, yeah the "Edit This Page" link is right at the bottom of the google spreadsheet. I added a little note to make it easier for people to find


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Aha, yeah the "Edit This Page" link is right at the bottom of the google spreadsheet. I added a little note to make it easier for people to find










Much appreciated mate.









~Ceadder


----------



## FreekyGTi

so as some know in this thread...im RMA'ing my H60 and im in need of some people to get an opinion from

so im considering trying either another H60 or H50...what would you all recommend out of those 2 situations?

im also considering a tower cooler like hyper 212+ but thats sorta a last resort if i cant decided between the above choices

also ive been doing some stress tests and i plan on making a post in the Intel CPU forum but i figured id as here....below is a screenshot of my last blend test with P95 after 3+ hours at 4.5ghz @1.290v w/ LLC on Ultra High

do you all think the temps and all are good or can it be better?


----------



## Ceadderman

Being that I run the H50 24/7 on a lapped 955 BE at 45c while Folding, I fully recommend it.

But know that you'll have a little work to achieve the best results. When you do the work, your temps should be comparable to running the 212 or a DH14 or Megahelms. And the end result is nothing short of satisfactory because you'll be able to actually SEE your MoBo. Which is a real negative for me with those big coolers. I mean I have all these nifty looking caps and it would suck pickles if I blew one under a cooler and couldn't see the exact one because of this monstrous cooler covering everything in the dinky 932 window. At least with the H50 if I blow one of them I can see exactly where the smoke came from. And on top of that I save my board the hernia.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FreekyGTi*


so as some know in this thread...im RMA'ing my H60 and im in need of some people to get an opinion from

so im considering trying either another H60 or H50...what would you all recommend out of those 2 situations?

im also considering a tower cooler like hyper 212+ but thats sorta a last resort if i cant decided between the above choices


I'm only o/cing a lowly core 2 quad, so I can't really relate to the kind of temps you're getting. However, the Hydro series of coolers is really comparable to the high end air coolers. If the temps with your H60 were ballpark with the high end air cooler you were using then the only way to improve them is to put some elbow grease into lapping the water block/pump, and maybe your CPU as well. Other than that, the fans you use are the most important thing. We have found orientation (intake/exhaust) only makes a difference of a few degrees in most cases, so good fans with good static pressure and and air flow become very important. If you're looking for the magical combination of super cooling and super quiet combined with ultra high overclocking, personally I don't think you're going to find it with these coolers.

Having said that, most people with i7 CPUs seem to get pretty good temps running at 4GHz using the Hydro coolers. If your temps are higher than theirs and you are using the same cooler, then you're back to the decision you were just lamenting. The H50 is a sworn by tried and true cooler, you may want to give it a try. Again, you'll likely want to lap it and replace the fan with two of the same model fans. (believe it or not, I have to mention that you should make sure they're both pointing in the same direction).
The H60 is a new member of the Hydro series. I have seen reviews of a comparison between the Hydro coolers (all in stock configuration) and they agreed that the cooling was best with the H70, then the H60, then the H50. However, that is in stock configuration. Once you add a second fan to the H50/60 they start performing closer to the H70 and can actually out perform it at lower temps. Even at higher temps the difference is only a few degrees (maybe 5 degrees). If you lap the water block you can improve the temps even further, some say they can get a 10 degree reduction by lapping the water block and the CPU.

If that seems like too much work to achieve your goal, than perhaps you would prefer some other type of cooler? There are a few coolers that use thermocouples added to a large heat sink and a fan, perhaps you may get a little better temp with one of those? I would suggest a full water loop, but if you decide that lapping your water block is too much work, then water cooling is likely out of the question since it also takes a little more work.

Personally, the first thing I would do in your case is email Corsair support, give them all the information (case model, number of fans, orientation, a picture maybe, cpu model, clock speed, voltage, cooler model, ambient temps and the temp of your cpu), and ask them if they think your temps should be better. If they think your temps are too high for your configuration you may decide to RMA the H60 for another one. I'm sure they would be interested in helping you find a solution.


----------



## godofdeath

why no h60 in the title and h60 performs somewhat better than the h50?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godofdeath;13506230*
> why no h60 in the title and h60 performs somewhat better than the h50?


We're now the Hydro Series Club. Though I guess that Killhouse needs to update the thread title and sig link. So the H60 was included.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## FreekyGTi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;13505445*
> I'm only o/cing a lowly core 2 quad, so I can't really relate to the kind of temps you're getting. However, the Hydro series of coolers is really comparable to the high end air coolers. If the temps with your H60 were ballpark with the high end air cooler you were using then the only way to improve them is to put some elbow grease into lapping the water block/pump, and maybe your CPU as well. Other than that, the fans you use are the most important thing. We have found orientation (intake/exhaust) only makes a difference of a few degrees in most cases, so good fans with good static pressure and and air flow become very important. If you're looking for the magical combination of super cooling and super quiet combined with ultra high overclocking, personally I don't think you're going to find it with these coolers.
> 
> Having said that, most people with i7 CPUs seem to get pretty good temps running at 4GHz using the Hydro coolers. If your temps are higher than theirs and you are using the same cooler, then you're back to the decision you were just lamenting. The H50 is a sworn by tried and true cooler, you may want to give it a try. Again, you'll likely want to lap it and replace the fan with two of the same model fans. (believe it or not, I have to mention that you should make sure they're both pointing in the same direction).
> The H60 is a new member of the Hydro series. I have seen reviews of a comparison between the Hydro coolers (all in stock configuration) and they agreed that the cooling was best with the H70, then the H60, then the H50. However, that is in stock configuration. Once you add a second fan to the H50/60 they start performing closer to the H70 and can actually out perform it at lower temps. Even at higher temps the difference is only a few degrees (maybe 5 degrees). If you lap the water block you can improve the temps even further, some say they can get a 10 degree reduction by lapping the water block and the CPU.
> 
> If that seems like too much work to achieve your goal, than perhaps you would prefer some other type of cooler? There are a few coolers that use thermocouples added to a large heat sink and a fan, perhaps you may get a little better temp with one of those? I would suggest a full water loop, but if you decide that lapping your water block is too much work, then water cooling is likely out of the question since it also takes a little more work.
> 
> Personally, the first thing I would do in your case is email Corsair support, give them all the information (case model, number of fans, orientation, a picture maybe, cpu model, clock speed, voltage, cooler model, ambient temps and the temp of your cpu), and ask them if they think your temps should be better. If they think your temps are too high for your configuration you may decide to RMA the H60 for another one. I'm sure they would be interested in helping you find a solution.


wow thanks for taking the time to write all that i appreciate the thorough response

as for the temps as they sit now...i personally feel they are a little high compared to others....now i am using 2 Noctua NF-P12's as a P/P exhausting setup...so im using a quality fan but not sure how they compare to others

i do know that lapping the cpu block will help with temps...but on this new build i want to get everything stable and running correctly before i go altering an item i wont ever be able to return and on that same note i wont be lapping my cpu as i cant really afford to replace the 2500k anytime soon lol...but i will consider it if i decide to grab another H60 or H50 and i get some better temps with that one...then i will lap it

i would love to do a full water loop...but my case wont allow it with out modifying the case and i really cant afford to fork out the extra 50-75$ an pre-configured loop would cost me...i do have the patience for doing a WC setup and would love to at another time but just not right now

i have spoken to Corsair 2 times already and ive heard the same story...they tell me my cpu temps fall well within they temp range they consider normal...i have to also say ive talked to them a total of 4 times for other reason and they are not very help or knowledgeable it seems so to say ive been disappointed in them would be sort of an understatement


----------



## FreekyGTi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godofdeath;13506230*
> why no h60 in the title and h60 performs somewhat better than the h50?


i wish i could agree with that

but from my reading ive seen H50s out perform H60's a few times

and form my own experience i know my H60 doesnt cool nearly as good as some people with almost my identical setup but with an H50 instead

im actually RMA'ing my h60 to possibly buy an H50...ill report back and see if its any better lol


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godofdeath;13506230*
> why no h60 in the title and h60 performs somewhat better than the h50?


Thanks for the headsup, I thought Id already done this but it seems Id just changed the title of the first post. Maybe the thread title was fixed by a mod sometime ago, Ill have to pester them to make it editable.


----------



## _REAPER_

I would like to thank all for the link for the shroud it dropped temps back down another 3C holy FK was I surprised.


----------



## Krusher33

I think I remember reviews showing H60 outperforming H50? But maybe I've got my wires crossed.

Don't get the Hyper 212+ over the water coolers... they're great but they're budget. Best bang for buck. You'll only get so far with them and not as far as any of the hydro series type coolers.

If you're wanting to replace hydro series with an air cooler then best bet is to get something in the higher price range.

I have a Hyper 212+ and also an H60. I've been trying to get my overclock high enough so I can test high temps but right now I'm stuck at 3.6 ghz with temps not going over 35 C.







I feel like if I can just get it up to 3.8 then I'll be seeing 40's and then I can try out the H60 and compare. I'm sure it'll outperform the Hyper 212+ because in reviews of the H60 I've been seeing it being compared to the high end air coolers and Hyper 212+ isn't on the lists.


----------



## nitewulf

Sorry if this is a dumb question. I have the H50 on an Asus P6T. I have fan control disabled in the AI Suite and also Fan-Q disabled in the bios. I'm running 2 GT AP-15s in exhaust. I notice in CPUID's Hardware Monitor that the one GT fan that's plugged into the CPU fan header plus the pump that's plugged into the PWR_Fan Header both vary in speed, i.e., if you open HWM you can actually see the RPMs rise and fall slightly. Is this normal behavior or should they maintain an absolute constant RPM? I have speedfan installed, but all 3 are set to 100%. I did notice that CPUID shows the +12v to actually be 11.35. Maybe this is why I'm not seeing great temp. readings. I switched out an H70 for the H50 and readings are quite similar so that probably rules out pump malfunction. Should I connect the pump via a molex adapter direct to the PSU to insure it's running at full 12Vs? I wouldn't have any way to monitor it I guess unless the CPU obviously overheats indicating a pump failure. Any thoughts or suggestions? Perhaps some setting set to "auto" in the bios is sending out pulses to the fans and pump? I've never checked before this so I don't know if the RPMs are supposed to fluctuate as normal behavior.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreekyGTi;13506448*
> i have spoken to Corsair 2 times already and ive heard the same story...they tell me my cpu temps fall well within they temp range they consider normal...i have to also say ive talked to them a total of 4 times for other reason and they are not very help or knowledgeable it seems so to say ive been disappointed in them would be sort of an understatement


Perhaps then your only option is to RMA it and gamble on what you will replace it with. As you have seen, others have been getting pretty good results with these coolers. If you are unhappy with your H60 then by all means give the H50 a try. A lot of people swear by them.

Here's a pretty good comparison of stock h50, h60 and h70 performance:

http://www.hardwareheaven.com/reviews/1125/pg6/corsair-h60-liquid-cpu-cooler-review-thermal-acoustic-performance.html

@nitewulf

My H70 pump varies between 1392 and 1424 RPM


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killhouse;13506858*
> Thanks for the headsup, I thought Id already done this but it seems Id just changed the title of the first post. Maybe the thread title was fixed by a mod sometime ago, Ill have to pester them to make it editable.


Go Advanced and you should be able to edit it Mate.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitewulf;13507955*
> Sorry if this is a dumb question. I have the H50 on an Asus P6T. I have fan control disabled in the AI Suite and also Fan-Q disabled in the bios. I'm running 2 GT AP-15s in exhaust. I notice in CPUID's Hardware Monitor that the one GT fan that's plugged into the CPU fan header plus the pump that's plugged into the PWR_Fan Header both vary in speed, i.e., if you open HWM you can actually see the RPMs rise and fall slightly. Is this normal behavior or should they maintain an absolute constant RPM? I have speedfan installed, but all 3 are set to 100%. I did notice that CPUID shows the +12v to actually be 11.35. Maybe this is why I'm not seeing great temp. readings. I switched out an H70 for the H50 and readings are quite similar so that probably rules out pump malfunction. Should I connect the pump via a molex adapter direct to the PSU to insure it's running at full 12Vs? I wouldn't have any way to monitor it I guess unless the CPU obviously overheats indicating a pump failure. Any thoughts or suggestions? Perhaps some setting set to "auto" in the bios is sending out pulses to the fans and pump? I've never checked before this so I don't know if the RPMs are supposed to fluctuate as normal behavior.


Yeah that could fix your issue but you should try massaging the settings in the BIOS first. In the BIOS in for my Board I can only set the PWR header to 90%. So I've locked my pump into 90% which gives me 1340rpm which is perfectly acceptable for the Hydro pumps. The Push Pull I have being controlled by PWM via a splitter to my fan controller off the CPU header and have it set at 100% in my BIOS since my fans are pretty quiet at full speed.

Might swap them back out for the High Speeds if my temps are consistently in the upper 40s' through the rest of the Spring. Typical summer around here is pretty cool except for August which can get pretty hot. 2 weeks of +100F weather is typical. Not bad for living in the High Desert region I live in.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## nitewulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13509978*
> Yeah that could fix your issue but you should try massaging the settings in the BIOS first. In the BIOS in for my Board I can only set the PWR header to 90%. So I've locked my pump into 90% which gives me 1340rpm which is perfectly acceptable for the Hydro pumps. The Push Pull I have being controlled by PWM via a splitter to my fan controller off the CPU header and have it set at 100% in my BIOS since my fans are pretty quiet at full speed.
> 
> Might swap them back out for the High Speeds if my temps are consistently in the upper 40s' through the rest of the Spring. Typical summer around here is pretty cool except for August which can get pretty hot. 2 weeks of +100F weather is typical. Not bad for living in the High Desert region I live in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Thanks. Unless I'm missing something, I can't find anything in the BIOS (P6T, version 1408) to set the PWR FAN (or any other fan) to a percentage or speed. All you can do is enable or disable the fan-q and you can accept to view the RPM reading or "ignore" it. I have a feeling I must be running at 90% too. I'm idling ar 41 which is ok, but one pass of Prime95 puts it in the upper 80's.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13509917*
> Go Advanced and you should be able to edit it Mate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I've tried this and it still wont let me, it only lets me add a title to the post itself.. like up there ^^...

Ill PM a mod to change it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitewulf;13511378*
> Thanks. Unless I'm missing something, I can't find anything in the BIOS (P6T, version 1408) to set the PWR FAN (or any other fan) to a percentage or speed. All you can do is enable or disable the fan-q and you can accept to view the RPM reading or "ignore" it. I have a feeling I must be running at 90% too. I'm idling ar 41 which is ok, but one pass of Prime95 puts it in the upper 80's.


You might post a thread asking for assistance with your BIOS settings. Someone who knows your MoBo should be able to help you with it. Cause a 41c jump on Prime95 is just insane regardless of Cooler, CPU and MoBo. If we're going by the 10 Under rule that would put your CPU square on 70c(HT Fully enabled I reckon) and while my CPU is only a Quad with no HT ability, +30c is an insane jump in temp. I could see 15c-20c though. Could be that your Pump isn't running full speed when your CPU makes that dramatic an increase.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## FreekyGTi

i have a question about connecting the fans for the H60

would it be smarter to connect the 2 fans i have to my fan controller than to let my motherboard control them?

btw i did some testing this morning with my pump....right now my pump is connected to ch_fan1 and all my monitors are showing the pump running around 4400 rpms still....so this morning i went into the bios and adjusted the levels at which ch_fan1 is running at...i had dropped it down all the way to a low of 1700 rpms and a high of 1980 rpm as it was showing in the bios and on my monitors in windows....with the change to the pump speeds the temp on my cpu rose from 66c @4400rpm to 75c at 1980 rpm ...a crazy 9 degree difference

anyways i just found that very interesting that actually dropping the speed back down to the range where the pump should be at according to Corsair actually was a bad thing...but still no real idea if the pump is truly running at 4400 rpm or if something is off in the readings


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreekyGTi;13512244*
> i have a question about connecting the fans for the H60
> 
> would it be smarter to connect the 2 fans i have to my fan controller than to let my motherboard control them?
> 
> btw i did some testing this morning with my pump....right now my pump is connected to ch_fan1 and all my monitors are showing the pump running around 4400 rpms still....so this morning i went into the bios and adjusted the levels at which ch_fan1 is running at...i had dropped it down all the way to a low of 1700 rpms and a high of 1980 rpm as it was showing in the bios and on my monitors in windows....with the change to the pump speeds the temp on my cpu rose from 66c @4400rpm to 75c at 1980 rpm ...a crazy 9 degree difference
> 
> anyways i just found that very interesting that actually dropping the speed back down to the range where the pump should be at according to Corsair actually was a bad thing...but still no real idea if the pump is truly running at 4400 rpm or if something is off in the readings


It depends on the fans you're using. If your motherboard can handle their current output then it's normally best to keep them on there, since you can use software like Speedfan to control the fan speed automatically.

If they're powerful fans you might find that they draw too much current - check your motherboard manual and your fan specifications. Though to be honest, unless they special aftermarket fans such as the Deltas or Fesers then you ought to be fine.

Pump speed is an odd one, it might be that your sensor is double-counting and it's actually doing 2200rpm.


----------



## FreekyGTi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killhouse;13512313*
> It depends on the fans you're using. If your motherboard can handle their current output then it's normally best to keep them on there, since you can use software like Speedfan to control the fan speed automatically.
> 
> If they're powerful fans you might find that they draw too much current - check your motherboard manual and your fan specifications. Though to be honest, unless they special aftermarket fans such as the Deltas or Fesers then you ought to be fine.
> 
> Pump speed is an odd one, it might be that your sensor is double-counting and it's actually doing 2200rpm.


the motherboard should be able to handle them perfectly fine...they are noctua p12's i believe....ill have to check out speedfan...ive heard of it but never used it

yeah im thinking the same thing for the pump that its doing double duty type thing when its been monitored....but it is very odd


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreekyGTi;13512632*
> the motherboard should be able to handle them perfectly fine...they are noctua p12's i believe....ill have to check out speedfan...ive heard of it but never used it
> 
> yeah im thinking the same thing for the pump that its doing double duty type thing when its been monitored....but it is very odd


Oh yeah, those Noctuas will be fine. Try speedfan though it doesent always work, it depends on your motherboard (some fan connectors may be monitorable but not controllable).

EDIT: If it does work, you can tell your fans to turn to full power only at a certain CPU temperature


----------



## nitewulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13512075*
> You might post a thread asking for assistance with your BIOS settings. Someone who knows your MoBo should be able to help you with it. Cause a 41c jump on Prime95 is just insane regardless of Cooler, CPU and MoBo. If we're going by the 10 Under rule that would put your CPU square on 70c(HT Fully enabled I reckon) and while my CPU is only a Quad with no HT ability, +30c is an insane jump in temp. I could see 15c-20c though. Could be that your Pump isn't running full speed when your CPU makes that dramatic an increase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Thanks, Ceadderman. I've also tried the H70 on this same setup so it can't be the cooler. Perhaps my cpu is or is going bad or there's a problem with the MB.


----------



## MarvinDessica

Quick question(s)

I'm planning on buying the H60 possibly on the 17th or 27th.

One thing I'd like to know before I purchase it from Microcenter/Newegg is if the stock fan is quiet and if not a decent replacement.

It'll be in a 600t case.


----------



## Swift Castiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica;13518508*
> Quick question(s)
> 
> I'm planning on buying the H60 possibly on the 17th or 27th.
> 
> One thing I'd like to know before I purchase it from Microcenter/Newegg is if the stock fan is quiet and if not a decent replacement.
> 
> It'll be in a 600t case.


It's decently quiet if it's not under load. Once there is load, it becomes audible, at least in my case. It becomes louder than my case fans on an Antec 902, which are on low.

If you want a replacement, a lot of people will say get a pair of Gentle Typhoons for push/pull.


----------



## MarvinDessica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swift Castiel;13518615*
> It's decently quiet if it's not under load. Once there is load, it becomes audible, at least in my case. It becomes louder than my case fans on an Antec 902, which are on low.
> 
> If you want a replacement, a lot of people will say get a pair of Gentle Typhoons for push/pull.


Interesting. I guess I'll debate on the fan later after I play some games on it for a while.

When you say push/pull what do you mean? Like pushing air onto the cpu and pulling it away?

Man the things you miss from computers when you've been away this long.


----------



## _REAPER_

A Little update pic.


----------



## Swift Castiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica;13518742*
> Interesting. I guess I'll debate on the fan later after I play some games on it for a while.
> 
> When you say push/pull what do you mean? Like pushing air onto the cpu and pulling it away?
> 
> Man the things you miss from computers when you've been away this long.


A push pull system is when you have a set up like this:

Back of case <---- Pull Fan <--- Radiator <--- Push Fan <--- Air Intake

Essentially, one fan pushing air through the radiator, and another fan pulling it for as efficient air flow as possible.


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swift Castiel;13518965*
> A push pull system is when you have a set up like this:
> 
> Back of case <---- Pull Fan <--- Radiator <--- Push Fan <--- Air Intake
> 
> Essentially, one fan pushing air through the radiator, and another fan pulling it for as efficient air flow as possible.


Yeap. And if you are buying Gentle Typhoon, don't buy 5400rpm LOL (unless you are planning to buy a fan controller)


----------



## Swift Castiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicolasl46;13519539*
> Yeap. And if you are buying Gentle Typhoon, don't buy 5400rpm LOL (unless you are planning to buy a fan controller)


1850rpms would be good enough.


----------



## FreekyGTi

does anyone have a really good guide for lapping an H60

ive seen one for the cpu but not sure what to start with as far as grit and what not

just need a good guide


----------



## Ceadderman

No offense but some of the best Radiator fans around are often the cheapest. Yate Loons imho are the best. If you want better you're going to pay for them and have to accept their dB quality or lack of.









There is a spreadsheet showing the dB rating as well as the static pressure of fans in the OP. Check it out.









~Ceadder


----------



## Olepolecat

I just bought an H70 for my AMD Athlon II X4 620 which is currently clocked @ 3.0Ghz. My stock cooler kept that at 50 under full load Prime 95 the H70 however runs at 56+ full load. I've cleaned it and reseated everything several times and the temps still won't drop. I'm starting to think somethings wrong with it.

I know it's not an issue of ambient temps or my case, I have a shader unlocked 6950 in the same case idling away at 35.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Olepolecat;13526950*
> I just bought an H70 for my AMD Athlon II X4 620 which is currently clocked @ 3.0Ghz. My stock cooler kept that at 50 under full load Prime 95 the H70 however runs at 56+ full load. I've cleaned it and reseated everything several times and the temps still won't drop. I'm starting to think somethings wrong with it.
> 
> I know it's not an issue of ambient temps or my case, I have a shader unlocked 6950 in the same case idling away at 35.


How do you have the pump plugged in? If it's into the motherboard make sure it's running around 1400rpm.


----------



## Olepolecat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiLuckyB;13526984*
> How do you have the pump plugged in? If it's into the motherboard make sure it's running around 1400rpm.


It's plugged into one of the case fan headers, I checked it in the BIOS and it said it was running at slightly over 1400.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Olepolecat;13527022*
> It's plugged into one of the case fan headers, I checked it in the BIOS and it said it was running at slightly over 1400.


Well other then making sure you have the fans both going the same way, What tim are you using? It took me 4 try's to get the right amount of tim on.


----------



## Olepolecat

The first time I mounted it I had one of the fans backwards,lol. But I quickly fixed that.

I'm currently using Shin-Etsu that I borrowed from work, but I have some MX-4 on the way from Newegg. It idles around 30, but the minute you stress it any it jumps to 45 and climbs to 56 real quick.


----------



## WorldExclusive

Added my H60 to the list.


----------



## FreekyGTi

So no one has a guide to lap these types of coolers?

can someone whos lapped an h60 or any of them really...is it just like lapping the cpu?


----------



## Krusher33

I think it's just like lapping the CPU. I haven't done it yet though. I imagine it's tricky with hoses and radiator still connected though.

I have done CPU and air cooler and it's the same process.


----------



## Firebeard

Add me h70







also for some reason I'm running at like 1367rpm not the 1400, weird? :S


----------



## _REAPER_

Question has anyone used a fan shroud for the exhaust or just for the intake?

Fan->shroud->H70->shroud->fan?


----------



## Munkypoo7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_;13528881*
> Question has anyone used a fan shroud for the exhaust or just for the intake?
> 
> Fan->shroud->H70->shroud->fan?


Use two shrouds just as shown in your model

Fan | Shroud | Radiator | Shroud | Fan

Why? If you don't you risk a terribly frustrating whirring noise due to turbulence.

I tried with shrouds.. temps actually rose. Mind you, I'm running my H70 with M12S2 Noiseblocker fans undervolted to run at 800 rpm so the shrouds did more harm than good









If you run low... low speed fans, shrouds are probably a no go.. least for me they were a no go :\


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_;13528881*
> Question has anyone used a fan shroud for the exhaust or just for the intake?
> 
> Fan->shroud->H70->shroud->fan?


I ran this setup for a while... Now it's Fan->2x25mm shrouds->rad->Fan


----------



## _REAPER_

did you get better temps with two shrouds on the intake fan


----------



## pjBSOD

Anyone know a pair of fans that work well with the H70's rad? I'm not particularly fond on my temperatures with the default fans. I just want to get them a bit lower.


----------



## _REAPER_

my fans work great CM Excalibur and now that i put a shroud on the intake my temps are really nice 4.2ghz 32c idle


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*


did you get better temps with two shrouds on the intake fan


Yes, but I also had a pretty good layer of dust on my rad. I did have a small dead zone in the middle of my rad with just one 25mm shroud however, so 2x25mm fans should have eliminated that dead zone. From what I've heard, a 38mm shroud is better than a 25mm, but I wasn't cutting up an ultra kaze, so I just used the two 25mm shrouds I already had instead. Under full load I stay in the upper 50s and low 60s. If I reseated my H50 I could probably get better temps.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *E-Peen;13530977*
> Anyone know a pair of fans that work well with the H70's rad? I'm not particularly fond on my temperatures with the default fans. I just want to get them a bit lower.


http://www.overclock.net/other-cooling-discussions/1008615-official-gentle-typhoon-2150-group-buy.html


----------



## Munkypoo7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *E-Peen*


Anyone know a pair of fans that work well with the H70's rad? I'm not particularly fond on my temperatures with the default fans. I just want to get them a bit lower.


As a rule of thumb, the Scythe GentleTyphoons AP15 (1850RPM) are the best option.

If you want lower noise, the AP14 and 13 are also excellent options that just run slower.

I personally prefer the NoiseBlocker series since they are dead silent, but they lack in some performance compared to the Typhoons, but I prefer silence over a few C lower... to each their own though


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *E-Peen*


Anyone know a pair of fans that work well with the H70's rad? I'm not particularly fond on my temperatures with the default fans. I just want to get them a bit lower.


I'm using these on my H70:

http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/ac...sl_detail.html

Specifically the 1900 RPM SY1225SL12SH

I'm using the PWM version, ( http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/ac...hp_detail.html ) but the 3 pin version has the same specs. I have found that both of the ones I have installed actually run at about 2200 RPM maximum speed when directly connected to the PSU, but using a controller they max out at about 2000 RPM. Using the PWM CPU header on my main board to control them I have yet to see them go over about 1900 RPM using Prime95. They are fairly loud at high speed, but fairly quiet at low speed, they seem to push a lot of air (110 cfm) but I don't know what the static pressure is. Working well in my Corsair 600T case.


----------



## pretsam

Just got my H60 today and hooked it up. I did a P/P with the stock fan(for time being), rad and Corsair R4 as a intake setup. Getting idle temps of 33-34c right now. I used the paste included. It replaced my Zalman CNPS9700 LED. Couple wires hanging around was before I cleaned it all up. The installation was a breeze for the H60 no hassle at all.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pretsam*


Just got my H60 today and hooked it up. I did a P/P with the stock fan(for time being), rad and Corsair R4 as a intake setup. Getting idle temps of 33-34c right now. I used the paste included. It replaced my Zalman CNPS9700 LED. Couple wires hanging around was before I cleaned it all up. The installation was a breeze for the H60 no hassle at all.


Very nice. You might get better temps if you run it with the Quad point bracket though. Not saying you will and obviously you would need fresh TIM and would have to lift your MoBo from the tray to do it, but if you're looking for a little better tempwise that may be a place to start.









~Ceadder


----------



## pretsam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13535007*
> Very nice. You might get better temps if you run it with the Quad point bracket though. Not saying you will and obviously you would need fresh TIM and would have to lift your MoBo from the tray to do it, but if you're looking for a little better tempwise that may be a place to start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I don't think the Quad point bracket works though isn't that for Intel only or am I misunderstanding. What are your temps running around? I'd like to try and get them a little lower. I am wondering how much better they may improve if i replace the stock fan since it runs at 1700 and my Coolermaster is running at 2000 but I lower the rpms on it to kinda match with the stock. If I should get another Coolermaster to match or get a set of 2 diff fans that may help even more. Any thoughts?


----------



## Krusher33

Doesn't hurt to try...


----------



## pretsam

Would lapping the CPU and H60 help at all or 1 or the other? I've never done anything like that before.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pretsam;13539467*
> Would lapping the CPU and H60 help at all or 1 or the other? I've never done anything like that before.


Depends on how even your CPU and H60 are to begin with. You might see a big difference, or you might only see a few degrees difference.


----------



## Krusher33

A good way to test is to stand a brand new razor blade on the surface. If you see a gap, then lapping would be good.


----------



## Nullhacker

about to get my h60 ill post pics of it when i do. however should i use the push or pull method or put two fans on it?


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nullhacker;13541890*
> about to get my h60 ill post pics of it when i do. however should i use the push or pull method or put two fans on it?


If you can, two fans in push/pull will benefit you the most.


----------



## Nullhacker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13541921*
> If you can, two fans in push/pull will benefit you the most.


Yeah im thinking ill just buy another fan


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nullhacker;13541949*
> Yeah im thinking ill just buy another fan


Two of the same fans will do the best, but if you can't, try and get a better fan than the stock fan and use it as the push fan and the stock fan as the pull fan.


----------



## pretsam

Would it be a better to to try a set of these Yate Loon fans
http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Pack-Yate-Loon-120mm-3-4-Pin-Fan-D12SH-12-Hi-Speed-/350386105759?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5194a3ad9f#ht_3849wt_905

Or go with another Coolermaster R4 to get rid of the stock fan
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103060


----------



## superhead91

Hmm... The rad on the hydro series coolers has a high fpi (fins per inch) so you want a fan with a good cfm rating. Ceadder seems to like his Yate loons a lot, but you've gotta be careful buying them, because there are good and bad Yates. I'm not sure which site sells the good ones and which site sells the bad ones, but I know it's been mentioned.


----------



## Killhouse

Static Pressure is a big factor in deciding which fan to get remember. Just because a fan has high CFM doesen't mean it will be good for dense radiators. Gentle Typhoons (1850RPM) offer great static pressure for their speed, Yate Loon's a little less - but still great fans on a budget.


----------



## pretsam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Static Pressure is a big factor in deciding which fan to get remember. Just because a fan has high CFM doesen't mean it will be good for dense radiators. Gentle Typhoons (1850RPM) offer great static pressure for their speed, Yate Loon's a little less - but still great fans on a budget.


Yeah I think for his Yate Loon's he was always referring to performance-pcs.com but the only Yate Loon I see on there are the 120x20mm if that is the correct one. What sites are good to check out the Gentle Typhoons?


----------



## pretsam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


Hmm... The rad on the hydro series coolers has a high fpi (fins per inch) so you want a fan with a good cfm rating. Ceadder seems to like his Yate loons a lot, but you've gotta be careful buying them, because there are good and bad Yates. I'm not sure which site sells the good ones and which site sells the bad ones, but I know it's been mentioned.


What are your temps with the Ultra Kaze 3K?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pretsam*


Yeah I think for his Yate Loon's he was always referring to performance-pcs.com but the only Yate Loon I see on there are the 120x20mm if that is the correct one. What sites are good to check out the Gentle Typhoons?


I'm afraid I'm UK-based so I dont know of any companies.

Another fan to check out is the Feser Triebwerk (in my system profile). It's got *amazing* static pressure, being 55mm(!) thick: It's quiet at 3V - not silent, then when I game or do anything intense it cranks up with Speedfan, keeping the temp at 50 across all cores (it gets a bit noisy then). tl;dr not a quiet fan, but way better than the Ultra Kaze 3Ks or other high speed fans for flexibility between noise/performance.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Static Pressure is a big factor in deciding which fan to get remember. Just because a fan has high CFM doesen't mean it will be good for dense radiators. Gentle Typhoons (1850RPM) offer great static pressure for their speed, Yate Loon's a little less - but still great fans on a budget.


I keep posting the group buy thingy for those fans but it seems like I'm just being ignored. Seriously... best fans you can get is the GT's.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krusher33*


I keep posting the group buy thingy for those fans but it seems like I'm just being ignored. Seriously... best fans you can get is the GT's.


I totally forgot about that. I would definitely recommend them. As for the question about the ultra kaze's, for the temps I get I don't think they're worth the extra size and noise. As a test the other day I slowed them down quite a bit and them cranked them back up to full speed and my idle temps didn't change a bit. Under full load stress testing at 4GHz my temps max out around 62C, which is AMD's max recommended temp for my CPU. When I'm stress testing I do run the fans at full speed however. They're pretty loud though. I'm actually buying some of the GTs from the group buy Krusher mentioned but I'm going to be using them on my water-cooling loop I'm in the process of building. I'll probably get them before my loop is totally ready though so I might test them out on my H50 to see how they do.


----------



## Nullhacker

ok i know next to nuthing about fans if i post some choices would u guys take a look and tell me if they look good

or if anyone knows of red led fans that would be good?

thanks


----------



## pretsam

I guess I am in a toss up between the GT, Kaze and Yate Loon. More leaning towards the GT or Kaze though.. What size screws would I need in order to mount the Kaze, since its a little thicker?

Found some GT's at but they look to be out of stock.
http://www.xoxide.com/scythe-gentle-...m-1850rpm.html


----------



## Nullhacker

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835200021

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835200050

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233049

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103083

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103091


----------



## pretsam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


I totally forgot about that. I would definitely recommend them. As for the question about the ultra kaze's, for the temps I get I don't think they're worth the extra size and noise. As a test the other day I slowed them down quite a bit and them cranked them back up to full speed and my idle temps didn't change a bit. Under full load stress testing at 4GHz my temps max out around 62C, which is AMD's max recommended temp for my CPU. When I'm stress testing I do run the fans at full speed however. They're pretty loud though. I'm actually buying some of the GTs from the group buy Krusher mentioned but I'm going to be using them on my water-cooling loop I'm in the process of building. I'll probably get them before my loop is totally ready though so I might test them out on my H50 to see how they do.


The group buy ends at end of May right and how long would that take to get the fans? Thanks for the info on the Kaze it sounds like its better off to just get the GT's for the performance rather than noise and thickness. Just need to find a good place to order from? I have a itchy finger atm so I am not sure if I can wait for the group buy to end.


----------



## Nullhacker

where is this group buy thing?


----------



## pretsam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nullhacker*


where is this group buy thing?


In the root of Water Cooling forums its a sticky post.


----------



## Munkypoo7

Hey guys, really.. really stupid question..

With an H70, can I put my computer into sleep mode?

For some reason I fear toasting my 920 if I were to put it in sleep mode








(not sure if the pump works.. of it it even has to?]


----------



## Stef42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munkypoo7;13547807*
> Hey guys, really.. really stupid question..
> 
> With an H70, can I put my computer into sleep mode?
> 
> For some reason I fear toasting my 920 if I were to put it in sleep mode
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (not sure if the pump works.. of it it even has to?]


It should keep working in sleep, it will stop on hibernate.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pretsam;13545297*
> The group buy ends at end of May right and how long would that take to get the fans? Thanks for the info on the Kaze it sounds like its better off to just get the GT's for the performance rather than noise and thickness. Just need to find a good place to order from? I have a itchy finger atm so I am not sure if I can wait for the group buy to end.


The GTs they're selling in the group buy can't be ordered anywhere I don't think. The AP-15s are popular but it might be hard to find them in stock, and you'll pay like $16 per fan. I understand wanting to get your fans right away, but if you can be patient the group buy is a really good deal.


----------



## Munkypoo7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stef42;13547826*
> It should keep working in sleep, it will stop on hibernate.


Thanks! Put me at ease


----------



## Jayce1971

One thing to remember, if you are going with the UltraKaze's on the radiator, is a quality fan controller. My rig is near silent with gpu fans down to 70%, and 6 case fans (3 UK 3K's). With the controller up full, it's as loud as a Hoover! With the fans turned down to 600-800rpm, they are barely noticable, and provide ample cooling for my H70, with idle temps around 33c. Fan controller = definate must for true enjoyment. I installed a Scythe fan controller which lasted almost 2 whole weeks before .6a draw of the 3K fans fried two of the channels. Now rockin' a Sunbeam.... much heavier duty controller, though not as pretty. If you are putting in high performance fans, (Delta's, UltraKaze, etc) don't skimp on a controller, or you'll be rma'ing before long.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pretsam;13545185*
> I guess I am in a toss up between the GT, Kaze and Yate Loon. More leaning towards the GT or Kaze though.. What size screws would I need in order to mount the Kaze, since its a little thicker?
> 
> Found some GT's at but they look to be out of stock.
> http://www.xoxide.com/scythe-gentle-typhoon-120mm-1850rpm.html


Everyone's is always out of stock. As soon as someone is in stock, EVERY forum will post it in the news or deals section and then they're sold in out minutes. You'd have to be quick to get them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nullhacker;13545242*
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835200021
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835200050
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233049
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103083
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103091


If I had to pick from those, I'd get the Cooler Master ones.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pretsam;13545297*
> The group buy ends at end of May right and how long would that take to get the fans? Thanks for the info on the Kaze it sounds like its better off to just get the GT's for the performance rather than noise and thickness. Just need to find a good place to order from? I have a itchy finger atm so I am not sure if I can wait for the group buy to end.


Right. It'll take some time to get them but in my opinion if you got some spare fans to hold you over for now, I think they will be worth the wait. A lot of guru's are swearing by these and you really can't beat the deal. Otherwise you'd be paying $15-20 per fan for the same performance/noise ratio. There was a test done with comparing many different fans. You'd have fans that were super great, but super expensive and loud. Then you'd have fans that were super quiet but not very effective and again, expensive. Then you'd have GT's that really had the bang for bucks down. I really can't remember where I seen it though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nullhacker;13545396*
> where is this group buy thing?


http://www.overclock.net/other-cooling-discussions/1008615-official-gentle-typhoon-2150-group-buy.html Just PM TatorTot and he'll take care of it.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayce1971;13549043*
> One thing to remember, if you are going with the UltraKaze's on the radiator, is a quality fan controller. My rig is near silent with gpu fans down to 70%, and 6 case fans (3 UK 3K's). With the controller up full, it's as loud as a Hoover! With the fans turned down to 600-800rpm, they are barely noticable, and provide ample cooling for my H70, with idle temps around 33c. Fan controller = definate must for true enjoyment. I installed a Scythe fan controller which lasted almost 2 whole weeks before .6a draw of the 3K fans fried two of the channels. Now rockin' a Sunbeam.... much heavier duty controller, though not as pretty. If you are putting in high performance fans, (Delta's, UltraKaze, etc) don't skimp on a controller, or you'll be rma'ing before long.


This. I use PC Probe to control my Ultra Kaze speeds and when they're slowed down they're really not too bad, but at full speed they are quite loud.

@pretsam If you can't wait for the group buy the Ultra Kazes would be good if you don't mind the noise or have some way to control them. Remember though they are 38mm fans so if you're going to do push/pull you're gonna have to make sure it fits, especially if you're planning on using shrouds too. I've got my rad assembly mounted in my 5.25" bays so it fits quite nicely there, but I don't know if I would be able to mount mine anywhere else. I have 2 38mm ultra kazes, 2 25mm shrouds, and the rad, so my setup is pretty thick.


----------



## andos

Coming up:

Corsair H80:









Corsair H100:


----------



## superhead91

@andos Link?


----------



## Munkypoo7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13549518*
> @andos Link?


Link

The product links from the Swedish site are down though.

In for an H80. That way I have an excuse to upgrade my mom's q6600 from a stock heatsink to my H70 and OC that puppy









EDIT: Link 2


----------



## andos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13549518*
> @andos Link?


There's no info on these really, since it was a scandinavian website which accidently listed them.

All I know is that H80 is a small upgrade from H70, a better waterblock I assume.

The H100 is 240mm and same waterblock as the H80.

The site Komplett is the biggest site here in the north, covering Norway, Denmark and Sweden, so I guess they are in hot water now.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andos;13549563*
> There's no info on these really, since it was a scandinavian website which accidently listed them.
> 
> All I know is that H80 is a small upgrade from H70, a better waterblock I assume.
> 
> The H100 is 240mm and same waterblock as the H80.


Nice. They look pretty sweet. Too bad I'm going with a full wc loop.


----------



## andos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13549583*
> Nice. They look pretty sweet. Too bad I'm going with a full wc loop.


Yeah me too.

No reason to keep a loud graphics card when the rest of your PC is pretty silent.

Can't wait to do my Watercooled Bulldozer and HD 7k rig


----------



## pretsam

Thanks for the info guys. I may go in on the group buy and also get a set of fans as well still. Do you guys know what a good static pressure rating is?


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pretsam*


Thanks for the info guys. I may go in on the group buy and also get a set of fans as well still. Do you guys know what a good static pressure rating is?


Well, obviously the higher the better; but a minimum of 1.0mm/H2O would be a good place to start, with 2.0mm/H2O being more in the range you want for a rad. The Akasa Vipers I'm using are rated at 2.98mm/H2O.


----------



## pretsam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *luchog*


Well, obviously the higher the better; but a minimum of 1.0mm/H2O would be a good place to start, with 2.0mm/H2O being more in the range you want for a rad. The Akasa Vipers I'm using are rated at 2.98mm/H2O.


Thanks! I just wasn't sure how they were rated and what avg usually were. Never looked before.


----------



## vf-

Thats a beast of a pump.


----------



## [email protected]

Mother of GOD ! FINALLY i must have that Corsair H100 but i do wanna see a option to be able to de-attach the tubes and attach them, as much i wanna put that rad outside my case otherwise i'd have to improvise!


----------



## Nutty Pumpkin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];13557204*
> Mother of GOD ! FINALLY i must have that Corsair H100 but i do wanna see a option to be able to de-attach the tubes and attach them, as much i wanna put that rad outside my case otherwise i'd have to improvise!


Nup,

I highly doubt it.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nutty Pumpkin*


Nup,

I highly doubt it.


I second this because it goes against what the product is and will increase liability.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krusher33*


I second this because it goes against what the product is and will increase liability.


The whole point of this unit is that it's pre built. They will never allow us to officially remove the rad from the pipes otherwise it would turn into a custom building water cooling kit. This is what they are trying to prevent by making the product. So yeah i third this.


----------



## smorg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BradleyW*


The whole point of this unit is that it's pre built. They will never allow us to officially remove the rad from the pipes otherwise it would turn into a custom building water cooling kit. This is what they are trying to prevent by making the product. So yeah i third this.


I 4th this..

because I can..

but in all seriousness will be next to impossible to stop air bubbles getting in a sealed system if you have detachable pipes..


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:



Originally Posted by *smorg*


I 4th this..

because I can..

but in all seriousness will be next to impossible to stop air bubbles getting in a sealed system if you have detachable pipes..


Well since we are at it, I 5th this...

I beats the purpose of a free maintenance water cooling kit.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicolasl46*


Well since we are at it, I 5th this...

I beats the purpose of a free maintenance water cooling kit.


I 6th this and i 3rd'ed it earlier. I just wanted to to that.


----------



## nicolasl46

^ lmao


----------



## longroadtrip

My question is this: wouldn't it stand to reason that they would be working on a GPU cooling solution? They have the new Link system in development, why would you devise a system to monitor case, RAM, CPU temps and not include the GPU?


----------



## mike12345567

Hey can people still be added to the list? I just got a H70 and it keeps my i5 2500K at 30*C average idle and 52*C maximum under stress testing (blend Prime95) thats at 4GHz









Really want that H100 though... looks like an amazing unit, I wonder whether I could sell my H70 on ebay and get a H100...


----------



## Mudfrog

That H100 is insane! Going to have to pick it up once released. Anyone know any kind of release date?


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mudfrog*


That H100 is insane! Going to have to pick it up once released. Anyone know any kind of release date?


No release as of yet..in fact, no info from Corsair yet. I believe Computex is this week though...If that is the case, there might be some product announcements this week! That would be my guess anyways...


----------



## Jayce1971

I think alot more planning will be instore for H100 installations. Better make sure you have plenty of room on the top/(possibly front) of your case before ordering!


----------



## smorg

I have just spoken to CorsairGeorge and he said he can't talk about it yet as it has not been officially released yet but i'm sure he will let us know when it will.


----------



## smorg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*


My question is this: wouldn't it stand to reason that they would be working on a GPU cooling solution? They have the new Link system in development, why would you devise a system to monitor case, RAM, CPU temps and not include the GPU?


There is a similar system made by Coolit called the Omni its a sealed GPU cooling system but its pretty rubbish imo..

there has been somebody on here that put a h70 on a 480gtx and it worked VERY well.. ithink the temps dropped around 25oC whilst under load


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:



Originally Posted by *smorg*


There is a similar system made by Coolit called the Omni its a sealed GPU cooling system but its pretty rubbish imo..

there has been somebody on here that put a h70 on a 480gtx and it worked VERY well.. ithink the temps dropped around 25oC whilst under load


I agree with you about the Omni. With Corsair's partnership with Coolit, it makes you wonder if there will be a GPU cooler on the horizon.

The only problem with the H70 is that it is not Link compatible, so it wouldn't be viable under Corsair's new product line.


----------



## nerdybeat

I'll bet that H100 will fit right into the top of my 650D.... =)


----------



## [email protected]

I totally want the H100 too but it's gonna be tricky to put inside my Antec 1200 considering the fact we won't be able to de-attach the tubes unless we can then we can mount it on the back of the case otherwise i'll just have to deal with mounting it somewhere else.

Just gotta wait and see how it goes! Been waiting for a dual rad for self liquid coolers for some time and finally we got one coming out soon. It's about time!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


I totally want the H100 too but it's gonna be tricky to put inside my Antec 1200 considering the fact we won't be able to de-attach the tubes unless we can then we can mount it on the back of the case otherwise i'll just have to deal with mounting it somewhere else.

Just gotta wait and see how it goes! Been waiting for a dual rad for self liquid coolers for some time and finally we got one coming out soon. It's about time!


Its almost certainly going to be a permanently closed loop, especially having seen the small photo teaser.

You could always mount the rad on the back of the HD rack - ie. internally.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*


My question is this: wouldn't it stand to reason that they would be working on a GPU cooling solution? They have the new Link system in development, why would you devise a system to monitor case, RAM, CPU temps and not include the GPU?


I 2nd this! I've been itching for one lately!

Edit: Though I can see why they're not. There's no one standard universal fit for ALL GPU cards.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krusher33*


I 2nd this! I've been itching for one lately!

Edit: Though I can see why they're not. There's no one standard universal fit for ALL GPU cards.










Actually, several of the watercooling companies have universal VGA cooling blocks. Look at the swiftech MCW-82 or the EK-VGA series of blocks. Nothing will fit on every GPU made, but it could be compatible with 99% of them.


----------



## LazarusIV

Man, if only I didn't have 2 GTX 470s... blocks for those are expensive! If they weren't that bad I'd WC my GPUs in a heartbeat and keep my H50 on my cpu by itself. Frak, anyone have a bunch of extra money to send me!?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip;13564352*
> Actually, several of the watercooling companies have universal VGA cooling blocks. Look at the swiftech MCW-82 or the EK-VGA series of blocks. Nothing will fit on every GPU made, but it could be compatible with 99% of them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV;13565747*
> Man, if only I didn't have 2 GTX 470s... blocks for those are expensive! If they weren't that bad I'd WC my GPUs in a heartbeat and keep my H50 on my cpu by itself. Frak, anyone have a bunch of extra money to send me!?


What the heck???
http://www.asetek.com/markets/do-it-yourself.html

Did they really photoshop it? Really?!


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];13563847*
> I totally want the H100 too but it's gonna be tricky to put inside my Antec 1200 considering the fact we won't be able to de-attach the tubes unless we can then we can mount it on the back of the case otherwise i'll just have to deal with mounting it somewhere else.


It's very doable if you remove two of your HD cages. I have a 902 and I have plenty of room to place a 240 rad where my HD cages used to be.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicolasl46*


Well since we are at it, I 5th this...

I beats the purpose of a free maintenance water cooling kit.


Free maintenance? Really? You mean I can get free maintenance for my system from Corsair if I buy one of those?









Okay toddling back to bed, hadda check the score for my Giants. We won again.







... Ow headache









~Ceadder


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Its almost certainly going to be a permanently closed loop, especially having seen the small photo teaser.

You could always mount the rad on the back of the HD rack - ie. internally.


Yea i always knew that but i sorta didn't like the idea having my fans not able to regulate the whole case if i had to mount the rad as a intake in front of my case.


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Free maintenance? Really? You mean I can get free maintenance for my system from Corsair if I buy one of those?









Okay toddling back to bed, hadda check the score for my Giants. We won again.







... Ow headache









~Ceadder










Yeah, free scheduled maintenance for three years or 36k miles, which ever comes first. I bet you didn't know that, LOL

edit, that's the kind of mistakes you make when English is your second language


----------



## DSgamer64

Quote:



Originally Posted by *andos*


Yeah me too.

No reason to keep a loud graphics card when the rest of your PC is pretty silent.

Can't wait to do my Watercooled Bulldozer and HD 7k rig










I'd go for water cooling myself if Newegg Canada actually sold coolant tanks and stuff, plus it was a bit more affordable. Cheapest I have seen was the Thermaltake BigWater at 180 on Tigerdirect.ca and that was just for one part of the kit, the blocks didn't support i7 or AM3 sockets.


----------



## badtaylorx

just thought id share my h70 mod with you...ill post a few pics...added to the loop is a micro res and a block over my nb/sb...its actually a mosfet block but it fit nice for what i needed...the other obvious mod is my push pull setup....2 zalman shark fin 120's pulling(by way of a radiator shroud box) and a cooler master excalliber 120 pushing... for temps i [email protected] 26-28 Celsius and under load with prime95 or burn-in-test i get a nice average of 38-45 (depending on the overclock) Celsius!!! see screenshots below.....the one thing i dont like is its looks.... i shoulda used a bigger case dooin all that moddin!!!








































id post the link to my build log but its on a different site...let me know if thats ok or not.....
in closing id like to add that set up like this it not only out performs the stock setup despite adding a VERY hot chipset,,,,it's also alot quieter!!!


----------



## [email protected]

That's cool man.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well if I can get my stuff sold I'll be buying my loop and selling the H50. Doesn't even have a year on it. But I would be selling it with 4 fans and all the goodies. I'm thinkin $50 shipped for:

2 Yate-Loon Medium Speed Silents-sleeved with MDPC Black w/ red shrink
2 Yate-Loon High Speed Silents-sleeved with MDPC Red with black shrink
1 shroud
4 silicon silencers
H50 lapped and re-sleeved with MDPC Red w/ black shrink
4 6-32 mounting bolts and 1 fan grill(blk) included.

Does that sound about right? I did all the work myself. Anyway I'm hoping to have my gear sold soon cause I found a really decent price on a EK block that will match my MoBo.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Krusher33

Sheesh, yeah. That's a good deal.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13578387*
> Well if I can get my stuff sold I'll be buying my loop and selling the H50. Doesn't even have a year on it. But I would be selling it with 4 fans and all the goodies. I'm thinkin $50 shipped for:
> 
> 2 Yate-Loon Medium Speed Silents-sleeved with MDPC Black w/ red shrink
> 2 Yate-Loon High Speed Silents-sleeved with MDPC Red with black shrink
> 1 shroud
> 4 silicon silencers
> H50 lapped and re-sleeved with MDPC Red w/ black shrink
> 4 6-32 mounting bolts and 1 fan grill(blk) included.
> 
> Does that sound about right? I did all the work myself. Anyway I'm hoping to have my gear sold soon cause I found a really decent price on a EK block that will match my MoBo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Was it the nickel and clear acrylic one the guy in the for sale section was selling? I saw that one right after I paid a little more for the nickel+acetal one.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;13579731*
> Was it the nickel and clear acrylic one the guy in the for sale section was selling? I saw that one right after I paid a little more for the nickel+acetal one.


Nope it's a BNIB EK Classified HF Super Block. EK has a new lineup of blocks out now. So it's time for me to make the jump to full loop.









Soon as I sell my stuff of course.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## ra_27

So long H70 I was just about to but my one when i see this.

I can't wait till I can get a H100 now!

It have to be better on temps then the H70 by a long shot!

anyone now what it like to go for?


----------



## [email protected]

The H100 isn't even out for sale yet man.


----------



## ra_27

yes I did know that was just hopeful some one might have a idea on what its like to go for.

So how many of us are going to get one?

I know I will be. as soon as the are out and have the $$$ to get one.


----------



## Recipe7

I was planning on getting a H70 in July, looks like it will most likely be a H80.

However, I will definitely jump on the H100 if temps are at least 5-7 degrees cooler compared to the H80. Otherwise paying more money for something twice as big doesn't seem logical.


----------



## [nK]Sharp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ra_27;13591874*
> I know I will be. as soon as the are out and have the $$$ to get one.


For the price it is going to be it will probably be cheaper and more effective to just buy a loop for your cpu.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[nK]Sharp;13592587*
> For the price it is going to be it will probably be cheaper and more effective to just buy a loop for your cpu.


Tru, but easier to deal with and less chance of it leaking.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## ra_27

"For the price it is going to be it will probably be cheaper and more effective to just buy a loop for your cpu."

it might be but as I'm an newbie with water cooling I want some thing that easy to set up.

that why I was going to go with the H70.

I do know that a 240x120 mm area radiator on H100 is gong to be a lot better then the H70.


----------



## 98uk

I have an H70 I bought 2 weeks ago through Amazon. Now I just found out the H80 is coming out. Wondering whether I should return it as it is still BNIB...


----------



## lawrencendlw

Anyone heard as to when they release? I'm upgrading my CPU cooler in about a month or so and would love to be one of the early adapters of a H100. Could you imagine a H100 with some san aces or gentle typhoon AP-31's in push pull with shrouds? It'll be a beast. I can't wait. I'm as giddy as a school girl lol.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## vdn20

What do you mean my lapped and re-sleeved? I see it mentioned a lot but have no idea what it means. Also, where did you get the silicon silencers? I can't seem to find it. Thanks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Well if I can get my stuff sold I'll be buying my loop and selling the H50. Doesn't even have a year on it. But I would be selling it with 4 fans and all the goodies. I'm thinkin $50 shipped for:

2 Yate-Loon Medium Speed Silents-sleeved with MDPC Black w/ red shrink
2 Yate-Loon High Speed Silents-sleeved with MDPC Red with black shrink
1 shroud
4 silicon silencers
H50 lapped and re-sleeved with MDPC Red w/ black shrink
4 6-32 mounting bolts and 1 fan grill(blk) included.

Does that sound about right? I did all the work myself. Anyway I'm hoping to have my gear sold soon cause I found a really decent price on a EK block that will match my MoBo.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vdn20*


What do you mean my lapped and re-sleeved? I see it mentioned a lot but have no idea what it means. Also, where did you get the silicon silencers? I can't seem to find it. Thanks


I got the square silicon silencers from Newegg.com for $4 each shipped. You can find them in Fan Accessories.









The H50 comes with sleeving on the wires. It's not the best stuff. Just something to help the wires blend in. When I did the sleeving for the rest of my system I replaced the chinsy stuff with MDPC sleeving.

All lapping really is, is making certain that the plate is as flat as possible to allow for closer contact to the CPU. It's not direct contact, but with the right amount of TIM applied it allows for better heat absorption. :cool

Hope this helps. I included a pic of my lapped CPU so you get the idea.









~Ceadder


----------



## vdn20

Yes, you did help a lot. I have just one more question. For the silicon silencers, did you just put them between the fans and case or did you use them elsewhere too? Thanks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13595977*
> I got the square silicon silencers from Newegg.com for $4 each shipped. You can find them in Fan Accessories.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The H50 comes with sleeving on the wires. It's not the best stuff. Just something to help the wires blend in. When I did the sleeving for the rest of my system I replaced the chinsy stuff with MDPC sleeving.
> 
> All lapping really is, is making certain that the plate is as flat as possible to allow for closer contact to the CPU. It's not direct contact, but with the right amount of TIM applied it allows for better heat absorption. :cool
> 
> Hope this helps. I included a pic of my lapped CPU so you get the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vdn20;13597225*
> Yes, you did help a lot. I have just one more question. For the silicon silencers, did you just put them between the fans and case or did you use them elsewhere too? Thanks


I put them in between each fan in my P/P setup and the fan and case. Using them to seal the unit more than to quell the vibrations. Which they still do but were my secondary issue.









[pusher fan]S[shroud]S[Radiator]S[pull fan]S[Case. S=Silencer









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## [email protected]

H80? Where did you hear that? Link source for proof?

Still looking forward to H100 but hopefully it's supported under Corsair cuz they have warranties that covers everything if something bad happens. *KNOCKS ON WOOD*


----------



## vdn20

Okay, thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13597309*
> I put them in between each fan in my P/P setup and the fan and case. Using them to seal the unit more than to quell the vibrations. Which they still do but were my secondary issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [pusher fan]S[shroud]S[Radiator]S[pull fan]S[Case. S=Silencer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## RomeoOG

Here's what I have done with mine


----------



## pnkspdr

Hey there

I've got the H70 along with two Gentle Typhoon Ap15.
Is it normal that my idle temps with my current system in the sig are around 36°C ?
Well we got summer temperatures here but yea.
My 1090t is running at stock speed.

I don't get how people reach 4ghz overclock or higher with a H70.


----------



## Swift Castiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pnkspdr;13604800*
> Hey there
> 
> I've got the H70 along with two Gentle Typhoon Ap15.
> Is it normal that my idle temps with my current system in the sig are around 36°C ?
> Well we got summer temperatures here but yea.
> My 1090t is running at stock speed.
> 
> I don't get how people reach 4ghz overclock or higher with a H70.


Idle temps don't matter as much. Load temps do. If you post your load temps, we'd tell you if it's alright or not.


----------



## pnkspdr

Good question. Will take a look about that when I'm back home. But I believe they're around 10-15°C higher than the idle temps. So around 45-50°C


----------



## lawrencendlw

I wouldn't say that is normal but it isn't the idle temps that matter so much as it is the load temps. What are your load temps on your CPU? Do you have your pump plugged into a motherboard header? If so did you go into the BIOS and set that header to always operate at 100%?

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## Swift Castiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pnkspdr;13604929*
> Good question. Will take a look about that when I'm back home. But I believe they're around 10-15°C higher than the idle temps. So around 45-50°C


That should be within reason. I haven't owned an AMD chip ever, so don't quote me on that, but even so, it sounds reasonable.


----------



## pnkspdr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw;13604964*
> I wouldn't say that is normal but it isn't the idle temps that matter so much as it is the load temps. What are your load temps on your CPU? Do you have your pump plugged into a motherboard header? If so did you go into the BIOS and set that header to always operate at 100%?
> 
> Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
> Nathan


It is plugged into the Motherboard and its set to run at full speed always


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pnkspdr;13604929*
> Good question. Will take a look about that when I'm back home. But I believe they're around 10-15°C higher than the idle temps. So around 45-50°C


If these are load temps you should be ok. The max recommended temp for the 1090t is 62C. On full load at a 4GHz overclock my temps are in the 59-62C range. If you want better temps maybe look into getting some shrouds.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pnkspdr;13604800*
> Hey there
> 
> I've got the H70 along with two Gentle Typhoon Ap15.
> Is it normal that my idle temps with my current system in the sig are around 36°C ?
> Well we got summer temperatures here but yea.
> My 1090t is running at stock speed.
> 
> I don't get how people reach 4ghz overclock or higher with a H70.


I am running at 4.2ghz but my vcore is going to be much lower than your AMD cpu


----------



## Mudfrog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *98uk;13593347*
> I have an H70 I bought 2 weeks ago through Amazon. Now I just found out the H80 is coming out. Wondering whether I should return it as it is still BNIB...


I say keep it. The H70 is still a great cooler.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pnkspdr;13604929*
> Good question. Will take a look about that when I'm back home. But I believe they're around 10-15°C higher than the idle temps. So around 45-50°C


My idle temp is around 36c but I still use cool n quiet so I'm not running a full OC the entire time. I believe the blademasters run around 500-600 rpm at idle. Under load when my cpu jumps to 3.72 (1.4v) my blademasters run around 1380-1400 (if I remember correctly) and my load temp is around 50c.

If your CPU is stock your load temp sounds high but it could be the difference in our fans.. that I don't know.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pnkspdr;13604929*
> Good question. Will take a look about that when I'm back home. But I believe they're around 10-15°C higher than the idle temps. So around 45-50°C


My 955 BE runs at 46c at Full Load(Folding 24/7) @22c Ambient. Granted that's on a tweaked up H50 but it is stock and the only real tweaks have been the lapping of the contact plate the addition of another fan and introducing a shroud between the Push fan and the Radiator.

I think your H70 is fine. If you want cooler then you might look at lapping the contact plate and installing a shroud.

Also my temps are this low because I knocked 15c off my temps by lapping the CPU. I'm not sure you'll need to do that because Thubans run cooler than Denebs.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## vdn20

I forgot to ask, what length are the screws that you are using? I'm planning on doing what you recommended to me a while back, 2 yate loon fans and a shroud.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13578387*
> Well if I can get my stuff sold I'll be buying my loop and selling the H50. Doesn't even have a year on it. But I would be selling it with 4 fans and all the goodies. I'm thinkin $50 shipped for:
> 
> 2 Yate-Loon Medium Speed Silents-sleeved with MDPC Black w/ red shrink
> 2 Yate-Loon High Speed Silents-sleeved with MDPC Red with black shrink
> 1 shroud
> 4 silicon silencers
> H50 lapped and re-sleeved with MDPC Red w/ black shrink
> 4 6-32 mounting bolts and 1 fan grill(blk) included.
> 
> Does that sound about right? I did all the work myself. Anyway I'm hoping to have my gear sold soon cause I found a really decent price on a EK block that will match my MoBo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vdn20;13607818*
> I forgot to ask, what length are the screws that you are using? I'm planning on doing what you recommended to me a while back, 2 yate loon fans and a shroud.


The screws are roughly 2.25" in length. I couldn't find that exact length so I had to buy 3" screws in 6-32 tp and a small bag of hex nuts. I threaded 2 of them per screwas close to the head as I could get and screwed them into the Radiator. Then I tightened one nut to the fan then the other to the first one.

I used a Sharpie to mark the thread that was to be cut and used a pair of pliers that have the wire cutter and snapped off the heads at the mark so that the nuts remained and the head did not. Moved the nuts to the marked end and screwed them into the Rad one at a time. Once I was satisfied with the results I painted them satin black up to the Radiator threads.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vdn20;13607818*
> I forgot to ask, what length are the screws that you are using? I'm planning on doing what you recommended to me a while back, 2 yate loon fans and a shroud.


Another thing you could do, which is what I ended up doing because I couldn't find 3" 6-32 screws, is use fan screws. They're long enough to screw 2 fans together and then you don't have to worry about washers or anything. Then just use like 1/2" 6-32 screws to screw the shroud to the radiator.


----------



## Dave73

Hi all,I posted this over at the H50/H70 club but no reply yet.
I have had the H50 for about a year now, Did a little mod on the pump cover now I was thinking of replacing the tubes. Is it possable to reuse the fluid that is in it and add distilled water to top it off?
I was thinking of putting my rad in the top of my case and the tubes are to short to put it there. I do not plan to put a res on it as I am planing to get a XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Kit soon with the new build.


----------



## CircuitFreak

I'm sure you could reuse it if you capture it and filter it so no debris gets in, but how do you intend to top it off without a res?


----------



## vdn20

Thanks for the information. This may be way off topic, but for fan silencers, is there a differences between one made of silicon and silica gel? Is one better than the other? Thanks


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vdn20;13619882*
> Thanks for the information. This may be way off topic, but for fan silencers, is there a differences between one made of silicon and silica gel? Is one better than the other? Thanks


Pretty sure there isn't. It's just another way to describe the product.









The only thing I can think of that may be different is the end result. One type may be opaque the other one not.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Dave73

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CircuitFreak*


I'm sure you could reuse it if you capture it and filter it so no debris gets in, but how do you intend to top it off without a res?


Thanks for the fast reply, I do plane to filterthe fluid as for topping it off there is a screw under the cover that plugs the internal res this is how Corsair fills them. Here is some pics of refilling it they are from a thread over at EVGA forms.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave73;13620055*
> Thanks for the fast reply, I do plane to filterthe fluid as for topping it off there is a screw under the cover that plugs the internal res this is how Corsair fills them. Here is some pics of refilling it they are from a thread over at EVGA forms.


And proof that these things are not "submerged in a coolant bath" as some people have speculated. With the exposed PCB it makes no sense for Acetek to expose them to the acidic properties of the coolant.

It smells like antifreeze correct?









In any case +Rep for the useful information. Extremely helpful for anyone who is looking to Mod one of these.









Maybe Killhouse can add a link to it in OP?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Dave73

Thanks I am planing to do this in the next day or so will do pics as I goand post them. Here is a pic of my rig atm.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dave73*


Thanks I am planing to do this in the next day or so will do pics as I goand post them. Here is a pic of my rig atm.


Post your rig stats in your user CP bro. Would love to see what you run without having to pester you for it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dave73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13620271*
> Post your rig stats in your user CP bro. Would love to see what you run without having to pester you for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I think I have most of it filled out, I did add my OC's but I am sill playing with the new drivers for the GTX460 and I don't mind being pesterd I sit here all day most of the time 4 back surgery's sense 2005 just to keep me walking, Wish doc would let me work somewhere but he says no way that will happen. LOL. So I build computers for others without him knowing have to do somthing.


----------



## pnkspdr

Well after running prime for about 30 minutes my temp is 43Â°C and cores at 27Â°C is this a normal temperature for stock settings with H70 and 1090t ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Sounds about right. I'm running 43c @ 100% on a lapped 955 BE with the H50.









~Ceadder


----------



## pnkspdr

alright thats good


----------



## acavella

Here is my current rig.


----------



## Dave73

Here is a link to where I got the pics of the fill port for the H50 he must have the credit he did a great job with his 2 120 rad and he goes in detail of the inner workings of the H50 so take a look. This was done in 2009, It took a little time for me to find it.
http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?high=&m=85534&mpage=1#92192


----------



## Ceadderman

Well guys, sold my H50 already. It was a fun ride while it lasted. But I have to move on to big water. I'll be standing by on the stock cooler between now and then it looks like. But I've started filling the collection plate with the sacrificial lamb.


















~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13625844*
> Well guys, sold my H50 already. It was a fun ride while it lasted. But I have to move on to big water. I'll be standing by on the stock cooler between now and then it looks like. But I've started filling the collection plate with the sacrificial lamb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Got an Apogee XT if your interested...was going to put it on my folding rig, but decided not to.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip;13626448*
> Got an Apogee XT if your interested...was going to put it on my folding rig, but decided not to.


Appreciate the offer but soon as I can finagle the $60 + shipping, I'll be picking up a EK Supreme HF Classified Block.









I don't have anything but my aspirations(& $50) at the moment though. Just gave myself a lot of need to fuel my determination to see this through.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13626705*
> Appreciate the offer but soon as I can finagle the $60 + shipping, I'll be picking up a EK Supreme HF Classified Block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have anything but my aspirations(& $50) at the moment though. Just gave myself a lot of need to fuel my determination to see this through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


No worries..if you change your mind, just let me know....i'm letting it go for $40 + shipping.


----------



## Mergatroid

Hey all.

I picked up an H50 a couple of weeks ago with the intention of adding it into my 10 year old computer case for a spare computer. I'm using a Corsair 600T now, so I had this sweet old mini case just sitting around. When completed it will only be a Core 2 Duo, 2.8GHz, 4G RAM, 500G HD and a HD4870 video card. It's a 2-3 year old system, but it still works fine for 90% of stuff, and it will easily play games at the 1440 x 900 resolution supported by the 19" monitor it has.

Here is what I am starting with:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HBVZHgKRiRQ[/ame]

This case only supports 80mm fans. So, I removed the hard drive bays to access the front of the case. I cut a large hole in the chassis at the front bottom, as well as in the front metal plate and the front acrylic piece. I covered the hole with a 120mm fan filter/cover, mounted the H50 fan to the front of the case, a shroud to the fan and the H50 to the shroud. The fit is tight and the water lines from the H50 might be in for a bit of a stretch. The main board is being used in another computer right now, so I won't be fitting it until later. Hopefully the H50 lines will be long enough to reach the CPU. It they don't, it will only be by a few mm, so in that case I'll have to add another shroud to move the H50 closer to the CPU.

Here is what we've done so far. This is just a fitting, so everything is in pieces again. We're prepping the case for a painting (Think RUSH 2112), and then it will be going back together H50 and all:




























Just goes to show, with a little bit of elbow grease you ca get an H50 to fit in just about anything. The interior will be painted crinkle black, the outside I'm leaving to a friend of mine who's good at painting. Should be fun stuff...


----------



## Ceadderman

Unless the Socket is toward the bottom of the board you might have better luck with the pipes at the side. Remember at the top is probably not a good idea so either at the bottom or the side withe the inlet pipe at the lower point.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mudfrog

Hey guys.. anybody have a pic of which brackets to use on a socket 1155 with my H50. I currently use it on my Phenom II and need to make a switch shortly. I have no idea where the instructions are. Is it the same bracket by chance?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mudfrog;13631494*
> Hey guys.. anybody have a pic of which brackets to use on a socket 1155 with my H50. I currently use it on my Phenom II and need to make a switch shortly. I have no idea where the instructions are. Is it the same bracket by chance?


Nope there are two brackets. So the one you aren't using is not the Intel one.









If you don't have the other bracket, then the best thing to do is contact Corsair to see if you can get one. I'm pretty sure they'll send you one for free. The instructions say that the inserts with two openings are the correct ones to run with the Intel bracket. I use them in the AM3 kit however. Also the backplate with 3 holes per corner is the one needed for Intel. Just fit the steel inserts to their proper location. That may take some trial and error to get them lined up properly though.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mudfrog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13631734*
> Nope there are two brackets. So the one you aren't using is not the Intel one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't have the other bracket, then the best thing to do is contact Corsair to see if you can get one. I'm pretty sure they'll send you one for free. The instructions say that the inserts with two openings are the correct ones to run with the Intel bracket. I use them in the AM3 kit however. Also the backplate with 3 holes per corner is the one needed for Intel. Just fit the steel inserts to their proper location. That may take some trial and error to get them lined up properly though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Ok, I don't typically throw pc stuff away so I feel sure I have it "somewhere".. worst case I'll call up Corsair. Thanks


----------



## CircuitFreak

If I remember right the holes on the intel bracket are labeled so you can insert the retainer standoffs in the right spot for each intel socket type.


----------



## eternal7trance

I'm running an H70 in my case with viper akasa push pull with a shroud on the push side. My room temp is 28*c and my idle on the 950 @ 1.32v is 44*c highest/74*c highest load. Is my H70 doing what it's supposed to?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance;13635057*
> I'm running an H70 in my case with viper akasa push pull with a shroud on the push side. My room temp is 28*c and my idle on the 950 @ 1.32v is 44*c highest/74*c highest load. Is my H70 doing what it's supposed to?


That's a reasonable temp from your H70.

Your Intel will always run 10c hotter than say my 955 BE. My Idle temp is between 29 and 31c/ Under 100% 1st Core Load I'm up as much as 47c. I'm sure that my system would run a bit hotter if I upped the Core load the way you're able to with your i7. So honestly 74c at full load with an ambient of 28c is respectable.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Shneakypete

Found this today at provantage.com, I guess there taking preorders... I wanted to call and ask what's going on but they were closed...

http://www.provantage.com/corsair-cwch100~7CSM900V.htm


----------



## Mudfrog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneakypete;13637172*
> Found this today at provantage.com, I guess there taking preorders... I wanted to call and ask what's going on but they were closed...
> 
> http://www.provantage.com/corsair-cwch100~7CSM900V.htm


If that is the actual price I might end up picking one up.


----------



## aicha

got my H70 last Friday and send it back (RMA) this Friday







Noise from pump was driving me mad . Looks very nice dow and temp. were down by 15C-20C , I had Cooler Master V8 before .


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aicha*


got my H70 last Friday and send it back (RMA) this Friday







Noise from pump was driving me mad . Looks very nice dow and temp. were down by 15C-20C , I had Cooler Master V8 before .


That's pretty nice looking setup you have. Sweet case. Too bad about the H70 pump. Are you just having it replaced or getting a refund?


----------



## aicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;13650175*
> That's pretty nice looking setup you have. Sweet case. Too bad about the H70 pump. Are you just having it replaced or getting a refund?


Thanks . I'm having it replaced , I think it's one of the best CPU coolers around (it's cheap and water ) ! Corsair customer support was quick , I sent them an e-mail and the next day they got back to me , and the day after I received RMA nr. and now just waiting for new cooler or they will fix old one .


----------



## Ceadderman

For those of you(in the States) wanting a good deal on Shin Etsu G751 paste, ring SVCs' phone(1-866-989-2970)off the hook *1 gram* tubes as little as $2.50 each no shipping or tax applied. Soon as they get some more I'm ordering 5 tubes. You can't find this stuff in 1 gram tubes anywhere else for so cheap.









5grams for $12.50 is a steal! But we gotta get after em.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## vf-

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


So honestly 74c at full load with an ambient of 28c is respectable.









~Ceadder










28c is really bloomin hot for a room to be honest. I'm sitting in a small room with 2 computers on and still find 24/25 just acceptable with the window on the catch. It's normally 20 - 22c through the day which is a nice fresh feeling.


----------



## [email protected]

28c is not even hot. Jeez.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


28c is not even hot. Jeez.


Well for some people 28c might as well be 40c.

I'm just the opposite unless it gets hotter. For me 7c is downright frigid. I hate the cold. I like a nice temperate climate and I cannot stand wind. It chills me to the bone.









~Ceadder


----------



## vdn20

Are you for real? What's the place that is doing this?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13659218*
> For those of you(in the States) wanting a good deal on Shin Etsu G751 paste, ring SVCs' phone(1-866-989-2970)off the hook *1 gram* tubes as little as $2.50 each no shipping or tax applied. Soon as they get some more I'm ordering 5 tubes. You can't find this stuff in 1 gram tubes anywhere else for so cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5grams for $12.50 is a steal! But we gotta get after em.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vdn20;13663822*
> Are you for real? What's the place that is doing this?


SVC.com is selling it.









They are currently out of stock because they no longer had a supplier. Dave told me they have one lined up now but are still out of stock. So with demand comes the determination to get more. Which is why I gave the number.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## andygoyap

H70 @ Home Computer #1:
V6GT to H70

























H50 @ Home Computer #2:


----------



## Mergatroid

Sweet setup there andygoyap. Very nice.


----------



## seether8

Add me please


----------



## Butter on Toast

Anyone using a H70 with a Sabertooth and HAF X? Experiences?


----------



## homestyle

How does the H50 perform with a low speed 1000-1200 rpm fan?


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Butter on Toast;13675655*
> Anyone using a H70 with a Sabertooth and HAF X? Experiences?


My brother is running one on a HAF 912, and his happy with it

Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle;13676254*
> How does the H50 perform with a low speed 1000-1200 rpm fan?


You want good static pressure for a radiator. That's what pushes the air through. I would suggest some Gentle Typhoon AP-15s as they have about the best noise to performance ratio. Yate Loons are also good on a budget, if you get them from the right place, as some places sell "bad" Yates.


----------



## ManOnFire

Add me please







Love my H series coolers, this is my H70 that I recently installed to replace a H50. It has double shrouds and push/pull Gentle typhoon 1850's.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManOnFire;13677496*


That looks great bud. Can you give us any idea of the temperature difference between your H50 and H70?


----------



## Diesel Phreak

Just picked up my H50 from bestbuy for $40. Now i'm going to run it as exhaust, now my next question is should i run it as push or pull?


----------



## acavella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diesel Phreak;13680438*
> Just picked up my H50 from bestbuy for $40. Now i'm going to run it as exhaust, now my next question is should i run it as push or pull?


Personally run mine as an exhaust out the back of my PC. Many will tell you to run it in the opposite direction so you pull cool outside air through the radiator. Personally I think this causes you to blow HOT air back into the case.

Really it depends on your setup/rig. If you have a well ventilated case, you can run it in either direction (intake or exhaust) and get the same results. Try it both ways and see what works best for you. In my rig, either exhaust or intake makes no noticeable difference, so I chose to run as exhaust.

Sent from my HTC Wildfire using Tapatalk


----------



## pjBSOD

I'm running the H70 with the two stock fans with cooling limitations in the BIOS disabled.

I have to say I am really not too impressed with the performance it offers for what I paid. I paid close to $110 and it keeps the 2600k around 75-78 C for 4.5 with 1.375v.


----------



## Diesel Phreak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *acavella*


Personally run mine as an exhaust out the back of my PC. Many will tell you to run it in the opposite direction so you pull cool outside air through the radiator. Personally I think this causes you to blow HOT air back into the case.

Really it depends on your setup/rig. If you have a well ventilated case, you can run it in either direction (intake or exhaust) and get the same results. Try it both ways and see what works best for you. In my rig, either exhaust or intake makes no noticeable difference, so I chose to run as exhaust.

Sent from my HTC Wildfire using Tapatalk


I understand that part, but my question is does the stock fan do better PULLING out the exhaust or PUSHING out the exhaust


----------



## Swift Castiel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Diesel Phreak*


I understand that part, but my question is does the stock fan do better PULLING out the exhaust or PUSHING out the exhaust


Push.


----------



## Diesel Phreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swift Castiel;13680992*
> Push.


Well i just ended up using the stock H50 fan for push and my stock fan in my 600t as a pull.


----------



## acavella

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Diesel Phreak*


I understand that part, but my question is does the stock fan do better PULLING out the exhaust or PUSHING out the exhaust


Ah, yes now I understand. Push configuration with the stock fan. I would suggest you ditch the stock fan at some point. If you decide to swap fans, look for a fan that provides high static pressure, not just high CFM. These generally go hand in hand, but not always.

Sent from my HTC Wildfire using Tapatalk


----------



## acavella

Quote:



Originally Posted by *E-Peen*


I'm running the H70 with the two stock fans with cooling limitations in the BIOS disabled.

I have to say I am really not too impressed with the performance it offers for what I paid. I paid close to $110 and it keeps the 2600k around 75-78 C for 4.5 with 1.375v.


Check the seating of your block. You may want to remove the block, apply some fresh TIM and reseat the block. Ensure that you have equal pressure applied to all four mounting screws. Obviously, as equal as hand tightening screws will allow you. Try to count the approximate number of screw turns you make on each. Many times, poor performance with these has a lot to do with how they are seated on the processor.

When I rebuilt my system I had a dramatic increase in temps. I had to reseat the block, with new TIM and I was back to normal again.

Sent from my HTC Wildfire using Tapatalk


----------



## weircc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *E-Peen;13680678*
> I'm running the H70 with the two stock fans with cooling limitations in the BIOS disabled.
> 
> I have to say I am really not too impressed with the performance it offers for what I paid. I paid close to $110 and it keeps the 2600k around 75-78 C for 4.5 with 1.375v.


im in the exact same boat i used icdiamond thinking it would help


----------



## pjBSOD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *acavella*


Check the seating of your block. You may want to remove the block, apply some fresh TIM and reseat the block. Ensure that you have equal pressure applied to all four mounting screws. Obviously, as equal as hand tightening screws will allow you. Try to count the approximate number of screw turns you make on each. Many times, poor performance with these has a lot to do with how they are seated on the processor.

When I rebuilt my system I had a dramatic increase in temps. I had to reseat the block, with new TIM and I was back to normal again.

Sent from my HTC Wildfire using Tapatalk


I directly installed it from its packing, I didn't replace the stock paste because the stock paste from what I read is shin-etsu and supposedly that's amazing paste.


----------



## Swift Castiel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Diesel Phreak*


Well i just ended up using the stock H50 fan for push and my stock fan in my 600t as a pull.


I did that too. Corsair stock is my push, and Antec stock case fan is my pull. I plan on swapping everything out for GT's though, so things could end up changing quite a bit.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *E-Peen*


I directly installed it from its packing, I didn't replace the stock paste because the stock paste from what I read is shin-etsu and supposedly that's amazing paste.


It's good paste, don't get me wrong. The problem with the H50's and H70's was the amount they used on it. On the H60, it's only a tiny square iirc, and so it's not that much of a problem. You may want to consider reseating and just using some AS5 for the moment. One of the regular posters here has a fully modded H50 that gets great temps in comparison to even the D14's


----------



## pjBSOD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Swift Castiel*


I did that too. Corsair stock is my push, and Antec stock case fan is my pull. I plan on swapping everything out for GT's though, so things could end up changing quite a bit.

It's good paste, don't get me wrong. The problem with the H50's and H70's was the amount they used on it. On the H60, it's only a tiny square iirc, and so it's not that much of a problem. You may want to consider reseating and just using some AS5 for the moment. One of the regular posters here has a fully modded H50 that gets great temps in comparison to even the D14's


Yeah, I suppose I'll get around to a re-seat.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Diesel Phreak*


I understand that part, but my question is does the stock fan do better PULLING out the exhaust or PUSHING out the exhaust










?

Exhausting from the case is only one way. Fans blowing in are Intake. Fans blowing out are Exhaust.









Just make sure your fans are both pointing the same direction otherwise the air stays in the vanes and the cooler doesn't cool your CPU. I accidentally faced both my fans in on each other when I replaced the High Speed Silents with Medium Speed Silents. Didn't take long for me to notice there was a problem.









My Idle temp is ~31-34c and my Current temp while Folding having 11 Safari tabs open and playing ACII (This I'm sure qualifies as full load







) is 39c no AC, or Window open. Of course my CPU is lapped. But that gives me 10-15c drop in stock temps.









~Ceadder


----------



## beetlespin

Hi,

I have ga-p35-ds4 2 rev was wanting to ask if h70 would mount to my motherboard?

Not sure how it will fit around the capacitors.

Ty.


----------



## Dave73

Looks to fit with plenty of room. Thay are about the same size as most water blocks.


----------



## drnilly007

can this rad be used with an h50? its from a koolance case that had pentium4 waterblock on it and the res has a submersible pump in it


----------



## Ceadderman

Don't see why not so long as it has the same size pipes and there isn't any blockages in it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Swift Castiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13682009*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> Exhausting from the case is only one way. Fans blowing in are Intake. Fans blowing out are Exhaust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I think he meant whether his single fan should pull air through the radiator or push the air through the radiator while in an exhaust configuration









But yeah, exhaust all the way!


----------



## homestyle

I know this question has been beaten to death, but not with low speed fans.

With 1000 rpm fans on the h50 and megahalem, which one wins?


----------



## CircuitFreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beetlespin;13682439*
> Hi,
> 
> I have ga-p35-ds4 2 rev was wanting to ask if h70 would mount to my motherboard?
> 
> Not sure how it will fit around the capacitors.
> 
> Ty.


http://www.overclock.net/13271129-post17545.html

Last Pic is of H50 mounting on the board. Plenty of room to clear.


----------



## Nysba

I turned it around so that the radiator is upside-down compared to this pic and the pump is rotated 90 degrees clockwise, had that awful clicking sound at 1400RPM
Now it stopped
GT AP-15's


----------



## ManOnFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;13680344*
> That looks great bud. Can you give us any idea of the temperature difference between your H50 and H70?












Its all relative really, I have my fan controllers setup to stay silent until things start really hotting up. Idle temps are 32-35 degrees, much the same as my H50 because this really relates to the temp of the air in the case.

I can say though that i'm currently running a 3.8Ghz OC at 1.5v and have my cooling set to never exceed 52 degrees. It never does and my H50 couldn't cope with that. The fans would be at full chat all the time trying to keep up with the heat.

I'd gestimate a 5 degree diff over my H50 and much more scope for OC'n.

I should also say I have my push/pull setup to exhaust and my pump running at 1000rpm instead of 1400rpm. It makes no diff to my temps and eliminates the faint buzzing the pump emits at full speed.


----------



## ElementR

Stupid question probably, but is there any type of cooling advantage, on a H50, to change the tubes and add a reservoir?

Im a noob when it comes to water cooling.


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElementR;13703948*
> Stupid question probably, but is there any type of cooling advantage, on a H50, to change the tubes and add a reservoir?
> 
> Im a noob when it comes to water cooling.


Not really. A reservoir isn't going to add anything to a sealed unit like the H50. If you're going to put in that much effort, you might as well just upgrade to a custom kit.


----------



## ElementR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luchog;13704488*
> Not really. A reservoir isn't going to add anything to a sealed unit like the H50. If you're going to put in that much effort, you might as well just upgrade to a custom kit.


Thanks, I was thinking the same thing. The only reason i want to mod mine is because the tubes are way to long. I priced it out to add a reservoir and new tubing and it was going to be more then what I paid for the H50...

I am just going to wait until I do my custom loop.

+1


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElementR;13703948*
> Stupid question probably, but is there any type of cooling advantage, on a H50, to change the tubes and add a reservoir?
> 
> Im a noob when it comes to water cooling.


Looking at the modders who went and changed the tubing and added a normal/micro-res, most of them saw little to no change in temps.

It's a nice "in-between" step for getting into a custom loop though the money is better spent saving up for a real custom loop or Rasa kit.

Edit: Oh, looks like you've already replied. :x


----------



## markov

I got H80 and H100 and also Corsair Link Commander link from corsair website

I think, the forum need more longer title


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markov;13714277*
> I got H80 and H100 and also Corsair Link Commander link from corsair website
> 
> I think, the forum need more longer title


"Corsair Hydro Series" not good enough?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Ubeermench

Thinking of getting a H100


----------



## iCrap

I got mine today... Meh its ok. H50. I didn't bother with the stock Corsair fan. I put the blademaster on.....

Maybe im doing something wrong. Whats the best way to mount it? and also what fans would you guys recommend.


----------



## Starbomba

-nvm


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap;13716757*
> I got mine today... Meh its ok. H50. I didn't bother with the stock Corsair fan. I put the blademaster on.....
> 
> Maybe im doing something wrong. Whats the best way to mount it? and also what fans would you guys recommend.
> 
> *snip*


Try flipping your Radiator 180 degrees. Let any air in the system accumulate where it cannot get back into circulation.









*Update* No longer running the H50 guys. Currently running stock on a 965BE which is also lapped like my 955 BE is. Figured since I had this one laying around and only had some Shin-Etsu x23 to use to go back to the Stock Cooler(for short term) it was time to see if maybe I like it better than my 955. It allowed my RAM to run at Stock Speed at least.









Anyway... is been fun and I'm glad to have gotten to know many people through this group. But it's time for me to move on with Big Water as soon as I can. Had to take drastic action to make the jump.









And yes I will check in from time to time to see how y'alls are doin.









vvv The pic from the post below is of an H50 not an H70.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## hienkhanh_becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexybastard;8489163*
> :


Which size of tubling you used in this mod sexybastard. I'm using H70 and try to mod same of you but i don't know what size of tubling you're using. Mine is 1/4'' and i think it's a little small.


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13719326*
> Try flipping your Radiator 180 degrees. Let any air in the system accumulate where it cannot get back into circulation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Update* No longer running the H50 guys. Currently running stock on a 965BE which is also lapped like my 955 BE is. Figured since I had this one laying around and only had some Shin-Etsu x23 to use to go back to the Stock Cooler(for short term) it was time to see if maybe I like it better than my 955. It allowed my RAM to run at Stock Speed at least.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway... is been fun and I'm glad to have gotten to know many people through this group. But it's time for me to move on with Big Water as soon as I can. Had to take drastic action to make the jump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes I will check in from time to time to see how y'alls are doin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> vvv The pic from the post below is of an H50 not an H70.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Farewell ceadder.. You shall be missed... Although I shall join you with a full loop very soon hopefully


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *superhead91*


Farewell ceadder.. You shall be missed... Although I shall join you with a full loop very soon hopefully


Meh, you'll see me alot more than others will here. You ave the same Cabinet.









~Ceadder


----------



## superhead91

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Meh, you'll see me alot more than others will here. You ave the same Cabinet.









~Ceadder










And motherboard...


----------



## iCrap

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Try flipping your Radiator 180 degrees. Let any air in the system accumulate where it cannot get back into circulation.









*Update* No longer running the H50 guys. Currently running stock on a 965BE which is also lapped like my 955 BE is. Figured since I had this one laying around and only had some Shin-Etsu x23 to use to go back to the Stock Cooler(for short term) it was time to see if maybe I like it better than my 955. It allowed my RAM to run at Stock Speed at least.









Anyway... is been fun and I'm glad to have gotten to know many people through this group. But it's time for me to move on with Big Water as soon as I can. Had to take drastic action to make the jump.









And yes I will check in from time to time to see how y'alls are doin.









vvv The pic from the post below is of an H50 not an H70.









~Ceadder










So the pipes should be on the bottom? also should the fan be intake or exhaust? and is the blademaster better or stock h50?


----------



## Starbomba

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iCrap*


So the pipes should be on the bottom? also should the fan be intake or exhaust? and is the blademaster better or stock h50?


I agree with Ceadderman, pipes should go at the bottom.
I've placed my H70 as exhaust, it's not a big difference unless you have bad air circulation in the case and the video cards blowing all air inside of the case.
About the fan, not sure


----------



## Ceadderman

Parting gift...

Stock fan is very good. It's a Yate Loon which has good Static Pressure. I've heard Blademasters are okay but I run Yate Loons and they did a great job for me. Get a pair of fans and carve the stock fan out of its housing to make it into a shroud. That should give you a pretty reasonable drop in temps by allowing more air to blow through the Rad instead of backwashing into the stream and out the other side.

the thread pitch on the bolts is 6-32. In order to attach a 25mm fan and 25mm(Modded) fanshroud to one side of the Rad you need 4 bolts 2.25" long each. If you cannot find them in that exact length then you can take a pair of medium duty wire *****(with plier jaw) and thread a couple of nuts on each bolt and snap off the excess toward the head of each one. Tighten up the nuts one at a time and you have effectively shortened them and locked down your set up. Silicon vibration gaskets work excellently as seals as well as minimizing the dB output.

Lastly I suggest Exhaust in any instance possible. The difference between Intake and Exhaust is generally ~2 to 4c depending on the application. In my case it was mounted up top like a Big Water system. Only without all the extra maintenance. I think mine was about 1c difference since I'm in a HAF case which has great airflow. But I bet in a Cosmos or similar air starved system it would be about 4c difference. More or less, who's to say unless they have that Cabinet.









Peace out y'all.









~Ceadder


----------



## markov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13715343*
> "Corsair Hydro Series" not good enough?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Yeah , It's better ... since corsair got high speed to announce a new type of hydro cooler

H70 is really noisy heh ?


----------



## lawrencendlw

Guess who just bought a H100 and has two thumbs..... This guy =D I really hope that it works well. I guess I'll be a guinea pig.


----------



## Prugor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw*


Guess who just bought a H100 and has two thumbs..... This guy =D I really hope that it works well. I guess I'll be a guinea pig.


From where?


----------



## Swift Castiel

Someone should consider renaming the club to Hydro Series


----------



## ra_27

Prugor, you luck dog!

can't wait to see image of it
in your case


----------



## Synthean

Well, got most of my stuff in yesterday and starting on the build, I will post a pic when I have completed the build. Here is a pic of the items I have already received. I plan on tweaking and dressing up inside the case before the reveal.


----------



## Blacked Out

Can anyone with an overclocked Sandybridge processor tell me what kind of temps they're getting using a H60/H70?

I'm looking to do a 4.5 Ghz overclock on a i5-2500K. My cooler will be doing push/pull using two Sythe GT 1850rpm (AP-15) fans.

Also wondering whether to wait for the H100.

*In Short: If anyone could post their temps under load, overclock speed and cooling setup (H70/Push/Pull/Exhaust), it would be greatly appreciated.*


----------



## ra_27

Would it just be better to get the H100 as it the top of the line.


----------



## Nysba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blacked Out;13723747*
> Can anyone with an overclocked Sandybridge processor tell me what kind of temps they're getting using a H60/H70?
> 
> I'm looking to do a 4.5 Ghz overclock on a i5-2500K. My cooler will be doing push/pull using two Sythe GT 1850rpm (AP-15) fans.
> 
> Also wondering whether to wait for the H100.
> 
> *In Short: If anyone could post their temps under load, overclock speed and cooling setup (H70/Push/Pull/Exhaust), it would be greatly appreciated.*


Check the "The H-series Owners" Google spreadsheet on the first page








I've got it on 4.5 GHz with 2 AP-15's and with a few hours of prime95, core 0 and 3 were about 52-54, and 1 and 2 were in the 57-60 area


----------



## Blacked Out

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nysba;13723924*
> Check the "The H-series Owners" Google spreadsheet on the first page
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got it on 4.5 GHz with 2 AP-15's and with a few hours of prime95, core 0 and 3 were about 52-54, and 1 and 2 were in the 57-60 area


Wow. I do check thouroughly before I post, and I missed that one.
Thanks for the quick reply dude +1


----------



## prznar1

i bet that you all already seen H100, so i will say that in uk online stores you can preorder this thing. 85 to 95 GBP


----------



## clubfoot

This will not apply to everyone but I noticed my pump speed in the 900s coming out of sleep mode even after several minutes,...needed a restart to bring it back to 1400+,....something to be aware of.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubfoot;13725076*
> This will not apply to everyone but I noticed my pump speed in the 900s coming out of sleep mode even after several minutes,...needed a restart to bring it back to 1400+,....something to be aware of.


That is why i dont keep my pump plugged into the mobo i just keep it powered by molex


----------



## Starbomba

I've been wondering, would i see any improvement in temps if i lap my H70? Or would i damage it? I do plan to lap my i3 as well.

I'm getting 65°c full IBT load on my i3, and i'm using MX-2 (the best i can get locally, so don't ask for other TIM's).

I'm also using one stock H70 fan without the limiter, and i'm using the PWM fan of my H50 in an exhaust push-pull (H70fan







).

I just bought an Easypckits premium heat sink lapping kit from here (as i WILL lap my C2D and my Thermalright Ultima 90 on my HTPC), and it will arrive next week.


----------



## ManOnFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubfoot;13725076*
> This will not apply to everyone but I noticed my pump speed in the 900s coming out of sleep mode even after several minutes,...needed a restart to bring it back to 1400+,....something to be aware of.


I run mine off a speed controller, kept to 1000rpm anyway...Makes no diff to my temps and eliminates the slight pump hum.


----------



## [email protected]

Is the H100 even on SALE right now?


----------



## ManOnFire

Not in the UK, but Scan have it on pre-order


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_;13725341*
> That is why i dont keep my pump plugged into the mobo i just keep it powered by molex


Hmmm,...good idea, have to see if I have a converter,....thanks.


----------



## moonmanas

I modded my H50 dropped temps by 5c also it makes no diff to temps if I have pump at 800 1000 of 1400 rpm....lapping the pump and cpu did nothing for my temps....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swift Castiel;13723074*
> Someone should consider renaming the club to Hydro Series


PM Killhouse and suggest it.

Back to lurking.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starbomba;13725409*
> I've been wondering, would i see any improvement in temps if i lap my H70? Or would i damage it? I do plan to lap my i3 as well.


I saw a huge drop when I lapped my H70. The cold plate is very rough and substantially concave. You can poke back through the thread for more info on the temp drops people are seeing after lapping. It also has way too much TIM applied, after lapping it only needs about a quarter of the stock TIM.


----------



## tats

Has anyone here gone from or to a D14 from their H50/70? I just ask because I impulse bought one from amazon with the hopes of getting some better temps.


----------



## iCrap

D14 is much better.


----------



## Bdonedge

So how reliable are these coolers in the long run? what i mean by that is do they perform the same 3 years down the line as they did from day one? thanks!


----------



## Dave73

Yes. Pick mine up in June 2009 and works great still today.


----------



## ra_27

I have a mate that has and the temps are around the same from a D14 /H70 from what I could see.


----------



## Starbomba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luchog;13728061*
> I saw a huge drop when I lapped my H70. The cold plate is very rough and substantially concave. You can poke back through the thread for more info on the temp drops people are seeing after lapping. It also has way too much TIM applied, after lapping it only needs about a quarter of the stock TIM.


Then i'll try lapping it. Do you happen to remember how much temps dropped? I'm aiming for a 6-8°c drop, as i don't wanna get over 60°c and i'm getting 64-65°c on full load while BOINCing (68-69°c with IBT, but it is IBT after all)


----------



## lawrencendlw

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Prugor*


From where?


I got it from fticomputer.com. I found out today that its on back order but it will ship to me from Corsair in 7-10 days. I'll post pics of it in my HAF X when I get it. I plan on putting it on top with the two top fans as put fans.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## Jattditutti

When/where will I be able to buy the H100?


----------



## sbao26975

If I want to do a push pull config with the stock corsair fan and a noiseblocker m12-s3 intaking air, which fan should push and which should pull?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManOnFire;13726142*
> Not in the UK, but Scan have it on pre-order


Well i ain't from UK however, what about US area?


----------



## lawrencendlw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jattditutti;13730473*
> When/where will I be able to buy the H100?


I bought mine from Here but I also found that it is sold Here also. fticomputer.com sells them and they are drop shipped from Corsair which means that even though I buy it from fti, Corsair is the one that actually ships it to me. They are on back order but will ship in about a week.

I ordered mine 2 days ago so it should be here in under a week. I'm going to be using the stock fans until I can buy some better ones (probably some Gentle Typhoon AP-31's) and I think I have some other fans that I can use for shrouds. I might just use my Yate Loon High speeds (yeah we all know Ceadderman) for the fans and the stock fans as shrouds. I'm only going to be using 2 fans on the unit itself and mounting it to the top of my HAF X and basically using the 2 top 200mm fans as pull fans. Do you guys see any complications that could arise from this such as turbulence or anything of that nature? If so I could always mount it in the front drive bays as a intake.

I'm super excited because I just bought a i7-960 to replace my 930, 2 more GTX 480's and a Corsair AX1200 so I am finally going to have the monster machine that I wanted to begin with. I am also going to be able to take my old 930 and put it into my second Asus P6X58D Premium motherboard with half of my 12GB kit of Corsair DDR3 2000 ram and a 4670X2 I have and make a dedicated folding rig. I hope to get well over 100k PPD from all of that but I think I am wishfully thinking. Sorry for the long post but I wanted to give you guys the info on where to get the H100 from and tell you what my plans are for my setup.


----------



## sarge88

Would one of the H series be a better cooler than my current dark knight setup? I'm asking cause iv heard some good reviews and if its better than my dark knight I'll be getting it and replacing the fans with 2 noctua fans.

Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk


----------



## lawrencendlw

Is wait for the results to come out on how well the H80 and H100 do vs the competition. If the past is any indication of performance then they should destroy the competition. I'd say wait a couple of weeks.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## ManOnFire

For those interested, the Scan website says they're expected on the 10th of June


----------



## BradleyW

So what do we think of the corsair H100?


----------



## ManOnFire

I'll hold judgement untill some reviews and tests are done...I think H series owners have been waiting for a dual rad version for years though....about time


----------



## sarge88

Im going to be buying the H100 and the Link Accessory as soon as there available. iv been waiting forever for a product like the Corsair Link device... cant wait to buy it. anyone know when both of these will become available?


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManOnFire;13737349*
> For those interested, the Scan website says they're expected on the 10th of June


false statment. corsair guys on XS said that they will be shipping H100 at the END of JUNE.


----------



## [email protected]

Nice to know!


----------



## ManOnFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1;13740039*
> false statment. corsair guys on XS said that they will ship H100 at the END of JUNE.


My statement was entirely true brother...The Scan International website says "pre order item due 10th of June" (UK)

You mean, they're wrong...On that though, I've used SCAN a thousand times for pre order stuff and 9 times out of 10 its there when they said it would be...just saying


----------



## prznar1

9 out of 10 is not 10 out of 10.
corsair boys know better what is going on with their products then scan (that have gazilions of things to sell, describe, change). right?


----------



## prznar1

one more thing about H100. be aware that this thing will be unable to be fully mount on top of 99% cases with dual 140/120 fans option. the spacing of holes for 120mm fans is wider then it is on H100 radiator.


----------



## sarge88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1;13740510*
> one more thing about H100. be aware that this thing will be unable to be fully mount on top of 99% cases with dual 140/120 fans option. the spacing of holes for 120mm fans is wider then it is on H100 radiator.


I have a haf x case. If it won't fit correctly I'll make it fit... lol

Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk


----------



## prznar1

haf series is good for them, it has good spacing. xigmatek cases to. but, for example, my case (cm 590) will not take H100 as a plug and play, and this is the whole idea about prefilled LC right? dont think this as a failure of corsair. watercooling is with us for more then one month...


----------



## ManOnFire

Quote:



Originally Posted by *prznar1*


9 out of 10 is not 10 out of 10. 
corsair boys know better what is going on with their products then scan (that have gazilions of things to sell, describe, change). right?


Chill brother lol...I believe you. I was only passing on what it said on the site as a possible release date.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:



Originally Posted by *prznar1*


one more thing about H100. be aware that this thing will be unable to be fully mount on top of 99% cases with dual 140/120 fans option. the spacing of holes for 120mm fans is wider then it is on H100 radiator.


Where are you getting this information? From what I have seen it is incorrect. The holes match up to dual 120mm fans and will fit any dual 120mm fan opening. Ex. All Corsair Obsidian and Graphite cases (standard dual 120mm openings in top) This information is per Corsairs support forums.


----------



## prznar1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*


Where are you getting this information? From what I have seen it is incorrect. The holes match up to dual 120mm fans and will fit any dual 120mm fan opening. Ex. All Corsair Obsidian and Graphite cases (standard dual 120mm openings in top) This information is per Corsairs support forums.


it is obvious that corsair cases will take H100 easly as they are doing that with normal radiators. 
after few minutes i will give you a draw about what i mean. this should clear everything


----------



## prznar1

red dots are 140mm fans mounting holes with 15mm spacing between two middle holes (you can screw up 280 rad to those holes)
orange is typical (and dumb as...) 120mm fans mounting holes with 140mm fans option.
green and red is combination of xigmatek idea for watercooling radiators support. both (140 and 120 solution) got 15mm spacing
pink and orange should be done years ago. this setup could give us a 15mm spacing for both 140mm fans and 120mm fans.

*you will not be able to fully screw H100 rad (without modding your case) with red and orange holes combo.*

the standard spacing between holes is 15mm, and on to those you will be able to screw up any kind of radiator (well, maybe not old thermochills with 25mm spacing)


----------



## jln1

I'm using H70 for my i5 2500k right now, everything is set DF:
System: 32C
CPU:124C
AUX:37C
HD1: 37C
Core0: 35C
core1: 36C
it's 98oF in TX right now but my house have AC, I don't know exactly the temp in my room but i guess it's aroung 80oF. Are those temp usual? I wonder why the CPU is so high


----------



## BradleyW

If scan say they are going to have it, then they will have it. I have full faith in them.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:



Originally Posted by *prznar1*










red dots are 140mm fans mounting holes with 15mm spacing between two middle holes (you can screw up 280 rad to those holes)
orange is typical (and dumb as...) 120mm fans mounting holes with 140mm fans option.
green and red is combination of xigmatek idea for watercooling radiators support. both (140 and 120 solution) got 15mm spacing
pink and orange should be done years ago. this setup could give us a 15mm spacing for both 140mm fans and 120mm fans.

*you will not be able to fully screw H100 rad (without modding your case) with red and orange holes combo.*

the standard spacing between holes is 15mm, and on to those you will be able to screw up any kind of radiator (well, maybe not old thermochills with 25mm spacing)












Looks to me like they have it figured out. They never said it would accept 140mm fans nor will it. I think you are completely jumping the gun with no basis for your knowledge. According to the Corsair reps that I have personally talked to, it will work in any dual 120mm opening. To expect a 240mm rad to fit in a 280mm rad opening is ludicrous. I'm sure you could do like everybody else who want to put a 240mm rad into a 280mm rad space, make a mounting plate.

The H100 is designed for any STANDARD dual 120mm opening. If your case doesn't have this, it is the fault of the case manufacturer for not adding STANDARD dual 120mm openings.


----------



## Jyve

Hiw bout a storm sniper?

Sent from my Epic 4g


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Anyone know the CFM of the stock fans on the h70? And how much does changing the stock fans to something more powerful really help? Say if I were to change them both to these:

Scythe Case Fans


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip;13743171*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks to me like they have it figured out. They never said it would accept 140mm fans nor will it. I think you are completely jumping the gun with no basis for your knowledge. According to the Corsair reps that I have personally talked to, it will work in any dual 120mm opening. To expect a 240mm rad to fit in a 280mm rad opening is ludicrous. I'm sure you could do like everybody else who want to put a 240mm rad into a 280mm rad space, make a mounting plate.
> 
> The H100 is designed for any STANDARD dual 120mm opening. If your case doesn't have this, it is the fault of the case manufacturer for not adding STANDARD dual 120mm openings.










what i said wrong. corsair used standard 15mm spacing between fans, but most of pc cases, that are using two 140mm fans, for the 120 option, got much more, due to making them directly on center of 140 mounting holes. that adds to the 15mm space between 140 another 20mm for the 120mm fans configuration. only cases like haf series, corsair or xigmateks or 692 will be able to instal H100 rad as a plug and play thing. also i have not said anything about mounting H100 on 140mm fan holes. im not saing anything bad about corsair to, its a looong know standard, its just that cases manufactuers sucked about that, and im warning people to measure their 120mm fans distance to not be suprised.








this is bad









this is good.

as for sniper, i have no idea. just see if between 120mm holes is 15mm distance.


----------



## jln1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jln1;13742778*
> I'm using H70 for my i5 2500k right now, everything is set DF:
> System: 32C
> CPU:124C
> AUX:37C
> HD1: 37C
> Core0: 35C
> core1: 36C
> it's 98oF in TX right now but my house have AC, I don't know exactly the temp in my room but i guess it's aroung 80oF. Are those temp usual? I wonder why the CPU is so high


anyone? are those temp normal?


----------



## prznar1

wow, CPU:124C, i missed that. nope its not ok. however if your cpu works fine (no crashing and other things) your temperature probe just failed.

damn. also missed that its fahrenheit

XD


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jln1;13743820*
> anyone? are those temp normal?


Mine are about the same. I also live in Texas. Right now my Coretemp reads at around 31 celsius to 38 depending upon the core.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swift Castiel;13723074*
> Someone should consider renaming the club to Hydro Series


Your about the 10th person to say that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starbomba;13725409*
> I've been wondering, would i see any improvement in temps if i lap my H70? Or would i damage it? I do plan to lap my i3 as well.


I have heard some people say they got up to a 10c temp improvement when they lapped both their cpu and hydro cooler. Most people won't see quite that good an improvement, but it's definitely worth it if you're concerned about your temps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1;13740510*
> one more thing about H100. be aware that this thing will be unable to be fully mount on top of 99% cases with dual 140/120 fans option. the spacing of holes for 120mm fans is wider then it is on H100 radiator.


Could you provide a link for this information please? All other Corsair Hydro coolers use standard 120mm fan hole spacing, and the H100 looks like it's a duel 120mm rad. It should have standard screw spacing for 2 standard 120mm fans. If you're trying to say the H100 won't fit in non standard holes, well duh. Any arrangement with "*STANDARD 120mm MOUNTS*" will work fine. If someone has a case with non standard mounting holes, then their case sucks and they should either get another one or mod the case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip;13742072*
> Where are you getting this information? From what I have seen it is incorrect. The holes match up to dual 120mm fans and will fit any dual 120mm fan opening. Ex. All Corsair Obsidian and Graphite cases (standard dual 120mm openings in top) This information is per Corsairs support forums.


You tell 'im man. As far as I know you're 100% right.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip;13743171*
> Looks to me like they have it figured out. They never said it would accept 140mm fans nor will it. I think you are completely jumping the gun with no basis for your knowledge. According to the Corsair reps that I have personally talked to, it will work in any dual 120mm opening. To expect a 240mm rad to fit in a 280mm rad opening is ludicrous. I'm sure you could do like everybody else who want to put a 240mm rad into a 280mm rad space, make a mounting plate.
> 
> The H100 is designed for any STANDARD dual 120mm opening. If your case doesn't have this, it is the fault of the case manufacturer for not adding STANDARD dual 120mm openings.


Agreed once again.


----------



## prznar1

CHRIST... im not talking about four holes to mount one fan, im talking about distance between four holes of first fan to four holes of second fan. 15mm is the only option. im just reminding that people should check how far those holes are from eachother to not be suprised when they will be installing H100.


----------



## ra_27

what do we think of the corsair H100? that easy i want one like now!
I have Corsair 600T so i think I'll be set for it to go in.


----------



## XtachiX

corair h100?
i've been away from ocnet for just a month and there are new things already?
i hate this...
amma buy it if its worth it


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1;13744956*
> CHRIST... im not talking about four holes to mount one fan, im talking about distance between four holes of first fan to four holes of second fan. 15mm is the only option. im just reminding that people should check how far those holes are from eachother to not be suprised when they will be installing H100.


You're saying the fans on the H100 are too close together for some cases? Some cases have them spaced further apart?


----------



## prznar1

yes. look at two pics that i have posted before. on top you got cm 590 and lower is cm 692 and you as can see the problem will be with the 590.








590 got red and orange holes, 692 got red and pink holes and as we all know, 692 can accomodate 240 radiator without any modding. 590 cannot do that with 240 radiator due to wrong fan holes placement.

also H100 dont have a "to close" fans, it has them in good distance. its just manufactuers fail to not do proper holes earlier.


----------



## ManOnFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gohan_Nightwing;13743572*
> Anyone know the CFM of the stock fans on the h70? And how much does changing the stock fans to something more powerful really help? Say if I were to change them both to these:
> 
> Scythe Case Fans


The standard fans are good air pushers but were too noisy for me...regardless of stats i'd still recommend sythes, or better still Gentle Typhoons.


----------



## hienkhanh_becks

Hello everyone, i'm a newbie to this forum and this club. This is the first Water Cooling system i use from air cooling. I used CooleMaster V8 before. I read and view many review and tutorial about Corsair H70 and I decided to use with modding ones.

Thank for these tutorial and showtime:
- Double Radiator from sexybastard : http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/612436-official-corsair-h50-h70-club-379.html#post8489163
- Ultimate Mod Guide for Noobs from Mr. Linky : http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/754545-ultimate-h50-mod-guide-noobs.html

I have a wonderful system (for me) now.
This is my system:
- Mobo : ASUS P6T Deluxe v.1
- CPU : i7 930 @ 4.02Ghz ( 192 x 21)
- RAM : Corsair Dominator GT 6 GB PC3-16000 2000Mhz (3 x 2b) [CMT6GX3M3A2000C8]
- PSU : CoolerMaster Power Pro 750W
- VGA : eVGA Geforce 9800GX2

List stuffs of my mod:
- Corsair H70 : $96 from Amazon
- Swiftech MCRES v.2 : $25 from MicroCenter (USA)
- Rad from "CoolerMaster Aqua Gate S1" : $10 (i bought from a guy in my country)
- Tubling : $0.5 (3/8'' ID 1/2'' OD)
- DeepCool 120mm 2000rpm Fan: $7
- Coolant for YAMAHA Exiter bike : $3 (i bought in my country Vietnam)

And here is some pics of my system :

1. H70 Rad with DeepCool fan









2. CM Aqua Gate S1 Rad on the top









3. Two Rads from back look









4. Finished system

































5. After close the side window









6. In the dark with light









7. Here is the result of my test
- I used "IntelBurnTest" with Maximum mode and 20 loops.
- I picked my CPU to 4.02Ghz ( 192 x 21 ) at 1.23125 vCore
- Maximum temp of core i got was 77 degrees in celsius
- I tested with default setting of the mainboard with all "Auto" and CPU at default clock 2.8Ghz, it never got above 65 degrees in celsius.


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Okay, for those wondering, here's the official word.

The H100 has "standard" dual 120mm spacing, which means there's 15mm between the fan holes for the two fans. This works in every Corsair case (even the $99 Carbide 400R we just announced) and has become somewhat of an industry standard for dual 120mm radiators.

This doesn't mean, however, that every case with two 120mm fans side-by-side will work perfectly with the H100. The case has to have fan mounts that are spaced correctly - this isn't a problem for most modern cases, as they've all been aware of the radiator spacing for some time.

There are two concerns: fan mount spacing, and thickness of fans + radiator. Some cases that have the right spacing for the fans still don't have room for the total thickness of the system to be mounted internally without encroaching on the motherboard area, and depending on the height of the power circuitry/VRM cooling around the socket and memory modules used, may not be compatible.

Again, all Corsair cases are tested to be 100% compatible unless otherwise noted.

I'll be doing a known compatibility chart for our website, so if you guys have any cases that are known compatible, please feel free to send them to me. If you want to know if a case is compatible, check the manufacturers website, OCN, or if you can't find it there, email me [email protected] and I'll check into it.


----------



## Shneakypete

Found a video on YouTube of guys showing off the new corsair 400r carbide case... Looks like it has a H80 mounted to it.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZiE4Bb1X23o&sns=em[/ame]


----------



## Starbomba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;13744899*
> I have heard some people say they got up to a 10c temp improvement when they lapped both their cpu and hydro cooler. Most people won't see quite that good an improvement, but it's definitely worth it if you're concerned about your temps.


Well, as long as it does shave at least 5c, i'll be happy. I just don't want to go over 60c








I'm not hoping for those 10c, my ambient temps (and bad case) won't allow for that. But i do plan to get some headroom for the hottest moths of the year, which will come around august.


----------



## Killhouse

Thanks for the clarification George









Very nice system hienkhanh_becks, glad you found the mod-guides useful.


----------



## prznar1

Quote:


> This doesn't mean, however, that every case with two 120mm fans side-by-side will work perfectly with the H100. The case has to have fan mounts that are spaced correctly - this isn't a problem for most modern cases, as they've all been aware of the radiator spacing for some time.


well. not all of them are aware of that. more of that, only few are aware of that, and even ThermalTake (well known from watercooling kits and cases with watercooling) is giving up for watercooling support with newer cases. but the worse thing is for older models, and people dont change their cases to often.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneakypete;13748239*
> Found a video on YouTube of guys showing off the new corsair 400r carbide case... Looks like it has a H80 mounted to it.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZiE4Bb1X23o&sns=em


Bit off-topic: That case was designed with the help of Bill Owen.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starbomba;13748457*
> Well, as long as it does shave at least 5c, i'll be happy. I just don't want to go over 60c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not hoping for those 10c, my ambient temps (and bad case) won't allow for that. But i do plan to get some headroom for the hottest moths of the year, which will come around august.


"Ghetto-modded brandless rusty case"

Ok, you got me there bud. Can we see pic or two of your case? I just gotta see it now.

If anyone is interested, here is the link to my painting and modding my old case. It's going slow but well. Pics are up. I have everything I need for completion. Should be a sweet little case with the H50 installed.

http://www.overclock.net/small-form-factor-systems/1032334-modding-old-sweety-new-awesomeness.html#post13728920


----------



## TITTY MUNCHER

H50 on my 470.

Problem?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TITTY MUNCHER;13755872*
> 
> H50 on my 470.
> 
> Problem?


Make sure the H50 is seated nice and flat against the chip. I have used a single h50 rad to cool a 4850 and that kept it far below the temps of the iceQ cooler.
That was also with a crap block too using 1/4in tubing.


----------



## Starbomba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;13752857*
> "Ghetto-modded brandless rusty case"
> 
> Ok, you got me there bud. Can we see pic or two of your case? I just gotta see it now.
> 
> If anyone is interested, here is the link to my painting and modding my old case. It's going slow but well. Pics are up. I have everything I need for completion. Should be a sweet little case with the H50 installed.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/small-form-factor-systems/1032334-modding-old-sweety-new-awesomeness.html#post13728920


Gotta love it









I once even fell over it (and i'm not exactly thin) and it's still a little wreck. it's not _so_ rusty, but it is rusty. Also, cable management is non-existant, and, as proof of bad air circulation, i leave one side open and still the thing feels more than warm to the touch. Also, as it had no 120mm fan on the back, and before my H70 i had an H50, and i had to get the pump inside _somehow_, and my good dremel had just died... there's the ghetto mod









I'll see if i can post pics of sig rig case tomorrow. Just now i got the idea of modding my HTPC case to fit my H50+adding 92mm fan inputs for the harddisks/cards/motherboard and other stuff (holes are only for 80mm fans) among other stuff, so i plan to start a work log of it. it is _way_ more presentable than my sig rig case, and it does have potential. But, the case for my sig rig will be a new HAF 912, which i'll buy very soon.


----------



## lawrencendlw

So I just wanted to be clear on something from what you guys are saying about the spacing on the Radiator for the H100. But first just to be clear, I have already ordered my H100 so if it doesn't fit... I will make it fit (in the spirit of OCN right?). With that said, I have a HAF X and my plans were to mount it up top on the under side of the 200mm fans (so actually on the inside of the case) using the 2 bars that cross underneath the 200mm fans and have said fans act as pull fans. What's the verdict on this? Should I be able to do that in a "Plug and Play" fashion? Any and all input would be greatly appreciated.

Oh and on the subject of when the H100 will ship, I was ensured that mine will be shipping directly from Corsair about a week after I ordered it (which would be the 10th). I don't know the Validity of that but I will post on here when I get a shipping confirmation.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TITTY MUNCHER;13755872*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> H50 on my 470.
> 
> Problem?


I tried something simmilar with my 5770.... but my temps were crap. How did you mount it?


----------



## ManOnFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw;13757437*
> 
> Oh and on the subject of when the H100 will ship, I was ensured that mine will be shipping directly from Corsair about a week after I ordered it (which would be the 10th). I don't know the Validity of that but I will post on here when I get a shipping confirmation.


I'd read its the 10th too


----------



## BradleyW

The H50 is not designed to cool down a GPU therefor it's not going to work well for most people.


----------



## EuRomer

how do i add myself? i am a new h50 owner too! i can't edit the 1st post..


----------



## Jim McNasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EuRomer;13759545*
> how do i add myself? i am a new h50 owner too! i can't edit the 1st post..


I've tried to be added for months now and still no joy


----------



## BlackandDecker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge;13747521*
> Okay, for those wondering, here's the official word.
> 
> The H100 has "standard" dual 120mm spacing, which means there's 15mm between the fan holes for the two fans. This works in every Corsair case (even the $99 Carbide 400R we just announced) and has become somewhat of an industry standard for dual 120mm radiators.
> 
> This doesn't mean, however, that every case with two 120mm fans side-by-side will work perfectly with the H100. The case has to have fan mounts that are spaced correctly - this isn't a problem for most modern cases, as they've all been aware of the radiator spacing for some time.
> 
> There are two concerns: fan mount spacing, and thickness of fans + radiator. Some cases that have the right spacing for the fans still don't have room for the total thickness of the system to be mounted internally without encroaching on the motherboard area, and depending on the height of the power circuitry/VRM cooling around the socket and memory modules used, may not be compatible.
> 
> Again, all Corsair cases are tested to be 100% compatible unless otherwise noted.
> 
> I'll be doing a known compatibility chart for our website, so if you guys have any cases that are known compatible, please feel free to send them to me. If you want to know if a case is compatible, check the manufacturers website, OCN, or if you can't find it there, email me [email protected] and I'll check into it.


How about the Cooler MAster ATCS 840?? IS it compatible for top mounting?


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW;13759438*
> The H50 is not designed to cool down a GPU therefor it's not going to work well for most people.


Well i didn't attach it to the chip - i coudlnt find an easy way to. I attached it to the heatsink.


----------



## lawrencendlw

I would think that would yield even worst results.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## prznar1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw*


So I just wanted to be clear on something from what you guys are saying about the spacing on the Radiator for the H100. But first just to be clear, I have already ordered my H100 so if it doesn't fit... I will make it fit (in the spirit of OCN right?). With that said, I have a HAF X and my plans were to mount it up top on the under side of the 200mm fans (so actually on the inside of the case) using the 2 bars that cross underneath the 200mm fans and have said fans act as pull fans. What's the verdict on this? Should I be able to do that in a "Plug and Play" fashion? Any and all input would be greatly appreciated.


your case has a standard 15mm spacing so anykind of radiator will fit in your case







. cooler master is even showing of with that that you can even install 360 radiator on top inside.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackandDecker*


How about the Cooler MAster ATCS 840?? IS it compatible for top mounting?


yes it is compatible to.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jim McNasty*


I've tried to be added for months now and still no joy










You have to scroll down to the bottom and click the link to add yourselves to the Google.doc









~Ceadder


----------



## Frontsidebus

Pre-ordered H100. Woo!


----------



## [email protected]

Pre-order? From where? PROOF?


----------



## draterrojam

any suggestions for fans for the h60 for push/pull config? I have a couple of these http://www.amazon.com/120mm-Performance-120RB-Black-White/dp/B0039825LM/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1307317633&sr=8-18]Amazon.com: NZXT 120mm Performance Case Fan FN 120RB (Black/White): Electronics[/URL] laying around. Don't think they are strong enough though. Would like to keep with the black/white set up to match the case theme. Any suggestions/experience would be great. Thanks.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *draterrojam;13764255*
> any suggestions for fans for the h60 for push/pull config? I have a couple of these Amazon.com: NZXT 120mm Performance Case Fan FN 120RB (Black/White): Electronics laying around. Don't think they are strong enough though. Would like to keep with the black/white set up to match the case theme. Any suggestions/experience would be great. Thanks.


They work well enough. My Yate Loons spin at around 1k RPM and they don't even need to spin faster while I'm gaming.


----------



## homestyle

What was the inside packaging material made of?

Mine was brown colored cardboard. The unboxing reviews I've seen on youtube all have plastic clear packaging. I'm wondering if I got a cheaper version. The 4 plastic slots on mine broke off, the pump sleeving is coming loose on the both ends, and the pump has this annoying buzz.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle;13766764*
> What was the inside packaging material made of?
> 
> Mine was brown colored cardboard. The unboxing reviews I've seen on youtube all have plastic clear packaging. I'm wondering if I got a cheaper version. The 4 plastic slots on mine broke off, the pump sleeving is coming loose on the both ends, and the pump has this annoying buzz.


Did the packing look like this?

It's no more cheap than the H50 that comes in the plastic tray.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## homestyle

Yeah, I'm just so disappointed in this cooler.


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Hey everyone. I can't seem to get my H70 stock fans to go above 1562 rpms. I tried Asus FanXpert, Speedfan, and that's about it. Any other suggestions? It seems to be stuck at 1562 RPMs.

Edit 1: Also I went into the BIOS and set the fan speeds to manually increase up to 100% when my cpu got above 40 Celsius, then proceeded to get my CPU that hot and there was no change in fan speeds.

Edit 2: I just got the problem fixed. So far the added speed hasn't helped my temps really at all. Maybe 1 degree cooler. Is that typical?


----------



## lawrencendlw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];13763463*
> Pre-order? From where? PROOF?


I pre-ordered mine from WWW.ftiComputer.com 4 days ago. The cooler ships directly from Corsair so it will be charged and shipped on the 10th when the start shipping them. So with a little luck, I could be one of the first people on OCN with a H100. What size screws will I need to use for 2 Yate loon high speed fans and then to attach it to the top of my HAF X case (on the inside, while keeping the 2 X 200mm fans still up top)? I want to buy all the screws I need before I get the cooler. I'll be using 2 X 120*120*25mm fans as shrouds. I need the exact measurements so I don't get the wrong screws.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw;13767565*
> I pre-ordered mine from WWW.ftiComputer.com 4 days ago. The cooler ships directly from Corsair so it will be charged and shipped on the 10th when the start shipping them. So with a little luck, I could be one of the first people on OCN with a H100. What size screws will I need to use for 2 Yate loon high speed fans and then to attach it to the top of my HAF X case (on the inside, while keeping the 2 X 200mm fans still up top)? I want to buy all the screws I need before I get the cooler. I'll be using 2 X 120*120*25mm fans as shrouds. I need the exact measurements so I don't get the wrong screws.
> 
> Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
> Nathan


Depends on the thickness of the fans with the thickness of shrouds + thickness of sheet metal or brackets bro. If you're doing just straight attachment with sheet metal, figure on 2.25" long. It should come with bolts long enough to mount one fan to sheet metal.

You might be able to get the correct length of bolts from fastener-express.com They had some that were 2.5", but you may find some a little shorter so you won't have to mod the correct lengths yourself.









Now remember this is purely speculatory since nobody(not even me) has an H100 yet.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Frontsidebus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];13763463*
> Pre-order? From where? PROOF?


From Scan.


----------



## ManOnFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontsidebus;13768483*
> From Scan.


Scan are just about the best for UK parts...Novatech used to be awesome , but the product range is rubbish now. Scan seam to have everything first...I've pre ordered mine there too.


----------



## Shneakypete

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];13763463*
> Pre-order? From where? PROOF?


http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Corsair+h100

Then go to shopping... Three companies drop shipping.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EuRomer;13759545*
> how do i add myself? i am a new h50 owner too! i can't edit the 1st post..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jim McNasty;13759582*
> I've tried to be added for months now and still no joy


Scroll down the bottom of the _Google Spreadsheet_ and click "Edit".


----------



## moowey

Found a picture of the H100 installed



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moowey;13774880*
> Found a picture of the H100 installed


That's just not right. I've only had my H70 for a few months, and now this is making me want to upgrade.

Oh well, that would require too much case modding anyway. (No mounts for a dual).


----------



## sarge88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moowey;13774880*
> Found a picture of the H100 installed
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Oh nice... I want that asap... wen will amazon be selling them... I get free 2nd day air till the 12th....

Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk


----------



## NguyenAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle;13767036*
> Yeah, I'm just so disappointed in this cooler.


Did you get the H50 at the BB sale too? I'm pretty disappointed with this thing. Gonna try PP with Yate Loons this week. If I don't see results I like, I'm returning this thing. Gonna stay stock for a little while and get a D14/SA or a Rasa kit later on.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NguyenAdam;13778280*
> Did you get the H50 at the BB sale too? I'm pretty disappointed with this thing. Gonna try PP with Yate Loons this week. If I don't see results I like, I'm returning this thing. Gonna stay stock for a little while and get a D14/SA or a Rasa kit later on.


Push/Pull should make a big difference - so would adding a shroud if you have the space in your case for it. You can make one just be cutting out the middle of an old fan


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NguyenAdam;13778280*
> Did you get the H50 at the BB sale too? I'm pretty disappointed with this thing. Gonna try PP with Yate Loons this week. If I don't see results I like, I'm returning this thing. Gonna stay stock for a little while and get a D14/SA or a Rasa kit later on.


I think a lot of people got the H50 at the BB sale. Probably people thought they were getting SUPER AWSOME WATERCOOLING WITH ULTRA LOW TEMPS. But really, its crap. I got the last H50 at my BB, i think they totally sold out.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap;13778578*
> I think a lot of people got the H50 at the BB sale. Probably people thought they were getting SUPER AWSOME WATERCOOLING WITH ULTRA LOW TEMPS. *But really, its crap.* I got the last H50 at my BB, i think they totally sold out.


*???*









I bought my H50 just cause I was on the fence about Watercooling and wanted something fairly cheap that would give me a little insight on water.

It's NOT Crap. It was actually VERY respectable in temps. I can post TONS of proof to my temps. Let's see you post proof to your "Crap". I've never seen pics nor screen caps showing the Crap H50. Not doubting you but I feel kind of perturbed at your blase reference to the H50. You don't strike me as someone who would willingly put up with "Crap".









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## tiramoko

deleted


----------



## moonmanas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap;13778578*
> I think a lot of people got the H50 at the BB sale. Probably people thought they were getting SUPER AWSOME WATERCOOLING WITH ULTRA LOW TEMPS. But really, its crap. I got the last H50 at my BB, i think they totally sold out.


NO way it can be described as "crap" it does what it says on the tin normal use to moderate overclocking. You get what you pay for, well no not really lol I was going to get a rasa 240 but at well over £100 in the UK and they can't even put a proper AMD mobo securing kit I thought they could shove it! I just modded my H50 instead for decent results


----------



## sbao26975

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap;13778578*
> I think a lot of people got the H50 at the BB sale. Probably people thought they were getting SUPER AWSOME WATERCOOLING WITH ULTRA LOW TEMPS. But really, its crap. I got the last H50 at my BB, i think they totally sold out.


Disagree. For the price it was a great upgrade. Going into the purchase I had realistic expectations for temp drops and didn't want a cooling system with that much maintenance. Alot of people reported worse performance but the H50 dropped my temps by quite a bit.


----------



## CircuitFreak

I feel it delivers the performance it advertises and the noise is low in my setup, it's nice to not turn a hair dryer on when I want to surf the web. ( GTX 470 on air while gaming is a whole different story). I traded a V6GT for it and don't have any regrets.

I idle in the 40s and max out in the low 60's, well within safe limits for a C2Q. Just because its 2 degrees higher than something else doesn't make it crap, noise level just may not be important to you as it is to me. But it is your 40$ and your entitled to your opinion.


----------



## homestyle

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iCrap*


I think a lot of people got the H50 at the BB sale. Probably people thought they were getting SUPER AWSOME WATERCOOLING WITH ULTRA LOW TEMPS. But really, its crap. I got the last H50 at my BB, i think they totally sold out.


These things have been out 2 years now. I don't think people are buying it lately expecting "true" watercooling. I was expecting more. But not more as in better temps. More as in the intangibles.

The pump is loud and makes an annoying buzz sound. I have my fans to 900rpm or lower, so I like silence. The mount system is pure crap. 4 of the plastic mount pins broke on me. Plastic on an aftermarket mount system in the most critical part is pure fail.

I'm surprised no reviewers even mentioned this.


----------



## homestyle

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NguyenAdam*


Did you get the H50 at the BB sale too? I'm pretty disappointed with this thing. Gonna try PP with Yate Loons this week. If I don't see results I like, I'm returning this thing. Gonna stay stock for a little while and get a D14/SA or a Rasa kit later on.


Yeah, I got in on the sale. I feel bad for returning it back to the store. I opened it and used it. Sure, Best Buy allows it, but I feel bad for getting it at such a good price and then returning it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Only problem in the mounting I had was the tape was too thick. Ended up replacing it with thinner 3M mounting tape and from then on had no mounting issues.

I recently sold mine and am no back on the Stock Cooler. Not because the H50 was crap, but because it's time for me to go with dedicated water cooling system with 1/2 inch pipe. If there is one thing I don't like about the H50 it's the size of the hoses. Better flow= Better cooling.

I just had to say something about the "Crap" comment though. I think you get what you put into it. If you don't put anything into it and run one fan on an iAnything then you deserve the cooler to run like Crap. You should know that your iCPU runs hot because you have virtual Cores. The more you run the hotter your CPU will get. The stock fan is NOT going to keep your stock CPU under 50c consistently. Especially when Ambient temps are higher than 29c. If you bought the cooler expecting it to keep your CPU under 29c well...









If you put the work in you will(In most cases) have a pretty reasonable cooler. If you're lazy about it then you have no room to complain about it. I'm saying this in generalized terms. Not calling anyone out, just stating a fact. There are LOTS of owners in the list and we've sorted out what works and what doesn't work so far as these coolers are concerned.

@homestyle... hey bruh, if your pipes are at the top of your Rad try turning the Rad over 180 degrees. Should clear up your noise. If that doesn't cut it, try rapping on the outlet tube(Corsair rightside up Left Pipe) you might have some bubbles trapped there and your system can't purge it without a little vibration. Just use an unsharpened No.2 or a bamboo chopstick to rap on the pipe. Hope it works for you.

Anyway I do understand the 1:25 fault ratio(actually it's probably more like 1:100) and how it can get bad publicity for any manufacturer, but if any Hydro Series cooler was crap, I guarantee Corsair wouldn't put their logo on any part of one.









~Ceadder


----------



## homestyle

Does any of your tubes twist freely at the pump/block?

The tubes on my H50 spin free almost like they are rotary fittings. They don't twist free when it's mounted, but if I need to reposition the rad to another spot, the tubes twist. There's no leaking now, but wondering if this is a "design" because I've never heard about this "design" in any reviews.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *homestyle*


Does any of your tubes twist freely at the pump/block?

The tubes on my H50 spin free almost like they are rotary fittings. They don't twist free when it's mounted, but if I need to reposition the rad to another spot, the tubes twist. There's no leaking now, but wondering if this is a "design" because I've never heard about this "design" in any reviews.


Yes they twist. You just can't manhandle the unit. As long as you're not lapping the block, you shouldn't have any issues rotating the Radiator 180 degrees. Don't rotate at the block, rotate at the Radiator. Less strain at block that way.







OH! And make sure your rotation doesn't cause the pipes to twist around the imaginary axis. Try to keep them parallel to each other as much as possible.









~Ceadder


----------



## ca4life

Hey, is it normal that my temps idle at 35~38c with an H60 in push/pull intake for an i5 2500k @ stock speed? Im using Artic Ceramique for thermal compound and i think the temps are kinda high







Im kind of pissed...

Heres a pic of my pc, 1 120mm exhaust on top, and in the 5.25" bays, theres a 120mm fan with 1200rpm 44.44cfm as intake. The 2nd fan im using with the H60 is an R4 cooler master @2000rpm 69.69cfm. The fans are @ 100%


----------



## Ceadderman

How do you figure 35c-38c on a Sandy Bridge is high when you're using less than performance TIM? 35c-38c using AC5 or Shin-Etsu G751 would be high. Those temps with Ceramique is pretty respectable. Check out the 80way TIM comparison in my Sig links.









Get a pair of fans of the same CFM rating and RPM also. That R4 is being severely retarted by that 44cfm fan. R4s' and Yate Loon High Speed Silents are both around 88-90 CFM. Don't run something half as good and expect great performance from your cooler choice.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *luchog*


That's just not right. I've only had my H70 for a few months, and now this is making me want to upgrade.

Oh well, that would require too much case modding anyway. (No mounts for a dual).


I know how you feel. My H70 is only a few months old, and I just bought an H50 for my 2nd pc. Doh.....

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iCrap*


I think a lot of people got the H50 at the BB sale. Probably people thought they were getting SUPER AWSOME WATERCOOLING WITH ULTRA LOW TEMPS. But really, its crap. I got the last H50 at my BB, i think they totally sold out.


Personally, my CPU was hitting 72c under load (prime 95) before I moved to the H70 (it's only about 5c better than the H50 stock). Now, with my CPU overclocked about 33% I run about 60c under load. That's a pretty good cooler in my books. As someone else said, if you're expecting full water build temps you should have looked into it further before you purchased it. There are tons of reviews out there and they clearly spell out what to expect with these coolers. There are also a few mods that can be done to make them perform better.










cpu under load o/c from 2.5 to 3.3GHz


----------



## valoskatr

my 965 is hitting 50c full load with the h50 push pull is that normal?


----------



## Killhouse

Pretty normal for a hot day with moderate fans, whats your ambients and fan selection?


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah that's about right. This of course depends on Ambient Temp. I'm running full load on a lapped 965 BE and getting 47c with the stock cooler. 50c on an unlapped 965BE is very reasonable. At least I'm assuming it's not lapped.









If it's not lapped that's pretty good. If you haven't done so yet I would suggest lapping the H50 and replacing the Stock TIM with Shin-Etsu G751 which is the same stuff. It's also the best stuff just edging out AS5 due to AS5's insanely long Burn In time. 200hours is just too long to wait on. Lapping the plate should get you a couple C less than what you're rolling now. ~5c depending on the severity of the unevenness of the plate. Some people see better. But I think ~5c is a reasonable estimate.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Killhouse

Indeed, I'm running non-lapped with a single Feser Triebwerk (insane static pressure fan) as a push fan.

Temps reach a maximum of 50C even in my small, hot bedroom. The fan speeds up at 49C though, since it runs at ~3V most of the time!

My rad is probably clogged up with dust too


----------



## nicolasl46

Guys question, My brother and I just put his system together this weekend, and he is using a stock H70 on a 2500k + Asus P8P67 Pro MoBo, and he is telling me that his temps are around 50c on idle? Since we just replaced a 1366 CPU/MoBo combo and we re-used the H70, I had to wipe clean the cold plate, and put some Antec Formula 7. Are the temps that high because the thermal paste has to settle in, is it the stock fans? I remember when he had my same CPU/MoBo my temps were still lower, but I'm using different fans (gentle typhoons. Any input on this?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicolasl46;13795649*
> Guys question, My brother and I just put his system together this weekend, and he is using a stock H70 on a 2500k + Asus P8P67 Pro MoBo, and he is telling me that his temps are around 50c on idle? Since we just replaced a 1366 CPU/MoBo combo and we re-used the H70, I had to wipe clean the cold plate, and put some Antec Formula 7. Are the temps that high because the thermal paste has to settle in, is it the stock fans? I remember when he had my same CPU/MoBo my temps were still lower, but I'm using different fans (gentle typhoons. Any input on this?


Something is fundamentally wrong, remount the H70 and check that nothing is going wrong with the install. It sounds very likely that the contact isnt very good.

50C idle isn't so trivial as fans or thermal paste I'm afraid.


----------



## WALSRU

Add me to the list









Put mine in an unusual spot so it wasn't pulling in exhaust from the GPUs. Getting 30C idle and 59C load. So glad I went with the H50.


----------



## Killhouse

Very nice Walsru, you can add yourself to the list using the link on the first post


----------



## TheArtOfMeh

I just got a H60 today and im running a Phenom 2 965 BE @4GHZ, 1.56V.
my idle temp is 43C with an ambient of 26C and a load temp of 58C, would you say this is good?


----------



## Killhouse

I'd say not bad for a 4Ghz OC. You could lower it somewhat I'm sure - what fans are you using and in what configuration?


----------



## TheArtOfMeh

Currently im using a single 1500rpm 61CFM Xigmatec XLF-F1253 fan in a pull configuration (pushing air out of the case), but i could use two in a push pull configuration, i also have an Akasa Apache Black fan that i could use instead of the Xigmatec.


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Just bought a couple of GT AP-15's to replace my stock fans. I have a couple of questions though before I get them in the mail and install them.

1. Will I have to use the screws that Corsair gave me when replacing my stock fans with my new ones?

2. Will I be able to use the cable from Corsair that allows me to have 2 fans running through one Mobo fan controller spot with my new fans?

Thanks!


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DAV1DR1CHARDS;13798968*
> Currently im using a single 1500rpm 61CFM Xigmatec XLF-F1253 fan in a pull configuration (pushing air out of the case), but i could use two in a push pull configuration, i also have an Akasa Apache Black fan that i could use instead of the Xigmatec.


Push/Pull is gonna make a big difference, especially with that OC. I dont really know whether the other fan is more powerful or not, but juggle fan power and noise so that you're happy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gohan_Nightwing;13798996*
> Just bought a couple of GT AP-15's to replace my stock fans. I have a couple of questions though before I get them in the mail and install them.
> 
> 1. Will I have to use the screws that Corsair gave me when replacing my stock fans with my new ones?
> 
> 2. Will I be able to use the cable from Corsair that allows me to have 2 fans running through one Mobo fan controller spot with my new fans?
> 
> Thanks!


1. You can use any screws that will fit, nothing wrong with the stock Corsair screws.

2. Yep, shouldnt have any problem.

Good luck.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DAV1DR1CHARDS;13798835*
> I just got a H60 today and im running a Phenom 2 965 BE @4GHZ, 1.56V.
> my idle temp is 43C with an ambient of 26C and a load temp of 58C, would you say this is good?


Your vcore is a bit high, though everything else seems to be in check.


----------



## ca4life

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WALSRU*


Add me to the list









Put mine in an unusual spot so it wasn't pulling in exhaust from the GPUs. Getting 30C idle and 59C load. So glad I went with the H50.











Wth...? How come his temps are lower than mine? His cpu is overclocked to 4.5ghz and runs cooler than mine at stock speed. I'm using H60 push/pull which is a bit better than the H50 and my idle temps are 33~37c. If i overclock my cpu (i5 2500k) to 4.6ghz, its around 12c more than his. This is so anormal. Im using Arctic Ceramique for TIM. The H60 is screwed tightly with the cpu. I dont know the ambient temps but my house has air conditioning, and my case is a storm scout. Can


----------



## Ceadderman

Dunno Mate maybe his ambient temp is lower, CPU might be lapped, Block might be lapped, Using fans with better static pressure, Intaking from the front of the case...

Just cause the H60 is better on paper doesn't mean real world application is better.









~Ceadder


----------



## ca4life

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Dunno Mate maybe his ambient temp is lower, CPU might be lapped, Block might be lapped, Using fans with better static pressure, Intaking from the front of the case...

Just cause the H60 is better on paper doesn't mean real world application is better.









~Ceadder










What does lapped mean?

Edit : Never mind, googled it








Should i lap my i5 2500k and the H60?


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Push/Pull is gonna make a big difference, especially with that OC. I dont really know whether the other fan is more powerful or not, but juggle fan power and noise so that you're happy.

1. You can use any screws that will fit, nothing wrong with the stock Corsair screws.

2. Yep, shouldnt have any problem.

Good luck.


Thanks! They should be coming in this upcoming Monday.


----------



## lawrencendlw

If you have never lapped before then I suggest you try doing it on an old CPU first. It would be a shame to screw that 2500k up.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw*


If you have never lapped before then I suggest you try doing it on an old CPU first. It would be a shame to screw that 2500k up.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


This is what I did before lapping a real CPU. Tedious but gives you better confidence.


----------



## lawrencendlw

Exactly. That's why I suggest it. I also suggest that you do the cooler before the CPU also. A lot of people think that the process is the same but its not exactly the same. You shouldn't use water when doing the CPU or you run a chance of really screwing it up. Make sure you do your research and don't just read one how to guide but several to get an idea of exactly what you need to be doing. Good luck. Take your time and do it slow. Allot several hours to do the CPU alone. If you rush it you start making mistakes and they are expensive mistakes.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## Ceadderman

Just keep in mind that the warranty will be lost the moment that Sandy touches sand. Nevermind that that Sandy is made of sand. Okay the cover isn't but stop being anal.









~Ceadder


----------



## Krusher33

Dang... where's the dude with the sandy bridge picture and bulldozer picture when you need him?


----------



## CircuitFreak

So since I post here the most what do you guys think of the strip of titanium across the top with the geforce sticker? yay or nay? Seemed like a good way to hide wires and add a place to stick a cold cathode.


----------



## Ceadderman

That's actually pretty cool. Maybe you could drill some holes in it and use it to mount our Push/Pull setup.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gohan_Nightwing;13798996*
> Just bought a couple of GT AP-15's to replace my stock fans. I have a couple of questions though before I get them in the mail and install them.
> 
> 1. Will I have to use the screws that Corsair gave me when replacing my stock fans with my new ones?
> 
> 2. Will I be able to use the cable from Corsair that allows me to have 2 fans running through one Mobo fan controller spot with my new fans?
> 
> Thanks!


As long as you get screws the right size you don't have to use the Corsair screws.

You can use the cable to connect two fans to your motherboard as long as the current rating of the two fans does not exceed the current rating of the fan header you plug them into.

For example, my high speed 1900 RPM Scythe PWM fans pull .6A, but my CPU header was rated for only 1A, so putting two of these fans together would pull 1.2A, which could damage my motherboard. Check the specs for your motherboard and your fans.

If the fans only give you a power spec then use pie (P=IE), where P is power in Watts, I is current in Amps and E is voltage in Volts.

My fans would be 12V x .6A = 7.2W each


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I just recently returned my brand new A70 to Amazon because my Vengeance memory would not clear the massive thing. I'm now resigned to the fact that I will need an H60 with its much smaller footprint. I had already purchased two Gelid Silent 12 PWM fans to use on the A70 and I am now wondering if these fans would provide adequate cooling for the radiator of the H60? They push 58CFM of air at 1500rpm and have a static pressure of 1.6mmAq. What do you guys think? I also have the blademasters on my Hyper 212 that I am upgrading from in case these fans don't provide enough power (but I want to use the Gelids if possible)....


----------



## Mergatroid

Those fans should work fine.


----------



## Kokin

Never got a chance to play with my CPU as a x2, so here is the result of that. Voltage is a bit high, but I never though I could reach SB speeds with a PhenomII.











Haven't done an IBT yet, but will be doing so. Really doubt it can pass even a standard test though.


----------



## antipesto93

h100 was supposed to be in stock @ SCAN uk today


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *antipesto93*


h100 was supposed to be in stock @ SCAN uk today


Suprise suprise if it's not!
Edit: Oh, it's not. What next, ETA yesturday....Pre-Order now!


----------



## antipesto93

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BradleyW*


Suprise suprise if it's not!
Edit: Oh, it's not. What next, ETA yesturday....Pre-Order now!


I pre-ordered it when it was still 80 pounds







i want!


----------



## ManOnFire

Quote:



Originally Posted by *antipesto93*


h100 was supposed to be in stock @ SCAN uk today


No it wasn't...website preorder says the 10th...its the 9th today....all day! lol


----------



## lawrencendlw

Yeah my H100 is supposed to drop ship from my order through ftiComputer.com tomorrow too. I guess we'll have to wait and see. I hope its true. I just brought my second rig online and I'm forced to use stock cooling because I only have the cooler master V10 in my main rig for now. Once I get my H100 then I'll move the V10 to my second rig and overclock more and run both as -bigadv instead of the one as SMP. That's a huge increase in PPD. As soon as I get a shipping notification ill post here letting you guys know.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## TheArtOfMeh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killhouse;13799271*
> Push/Pull is gonna make a big difference, especially with that OC. I dont really know whether the other fan is more powerful or not, but juggle fan power and noise so that you're happy.
> 
> 1. You can use any screws that will fit, nothing wrong with the stock Corsair screws.
> 
> 2. Yep, shouldnt have any problem.
> 
> Good luck.


Thanks for the advice, I tried push pull and all combinations of the fans i have on the H60 today and a push/pull with the xigmatecs came out tops with a 4C drop over the other configs. I dont really mind the noise as long as its not as loud as the stock AMD cooler, that was a nightmare.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin;13801101*
> Your vcore is a bit high, though everything else seems to be in check.


Yeah, im having some trouble trying to get this processor to overclock at the moment, I have to set a 1.58v VCORE in the BIOS in order to be able to successfully pass all the stability tests I throw at it, however once I do this, AMD Overdrive is showing a 1.48v VCORE and other utilities show different (some even showing 1.60v) so im not sure which is the real reading at the moment.


----------



## EuRomer

add me up! i have an h50 too push/pull config..

what do you think of my temp.. im really new at this thing.. how do i read the info on hwmonitor? thanks!


----------



## CircuitFreak

I don't think those are bad idle temps, but load temps are what its all about.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DAV1DR1CHARDS;13814172*
> Yeah, im having some trouble trying to get this processor to overclock at the moment, I have to set a 1.58v VCORE in the BIOS in order to be able to successfully pass all the stability tests I throw at it, however once I do this, AMD Overdrive is showing a 1.48v VCORE and other utilities show different (some even showing 1.60v) so im not sure which is the real reading at the moment.


I like to use CPU-Z/Speedfan when I'm doing stress tests. I haven't even touched AMD Overdrive for a long time (nor have it installed). Also, just to let you know, the safe limit for PhenomII chips is 1.55v, so anything past that is considered likely to fry something (VRMs most likely).

Unless you run your cpu as a dual or tri-core I wouldn't go past 1.55v for long periods of time. I did 1.6v for my old 955 C2 and it fried my board's VRMs after a few hours. The CPU still survived, but I had to RMA my board.

Your board has better VRMs than mine though, so you're less likely to see the same result as me, but I recommend going for a lower overclock as 100-200mhz doesn't add much in benchmarks/gaming.


----------



## EuRomer

how about this?

after playing need for speed for about 1-2hrs..


----------



## EuRomer

also, what does FANIN0 mean? where do i find it on my motherboard? thanks!


----------



## hxcnero

its one of your fan headers on your mobo. however i cannot tell you which one. i can tell you that its a header on your mobo that doesnt have a fan connected to it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EuRomer;13817916*
> how about this?
> 
> after playing need for speed for about 1-2hrs..


Try looking up Prime95 at Softpedia.com and run that for a bit. That should stress your CPU under full load. No game is going to cut it. Most games don't use more than 2 Cores. I Fold, and my average temp with the Stock cooler(H50 is on it's way to the new owner)is 48c. Of course both of my CPUs' are lapped. My 955 BE is 15c lower than Stock when I use that and this 965 BE is 10c lower in temp give or take the temps of a Stock chip.









If you want to stress your CPU there is no better substitute than Folding 24/7 or running Prime95 for a few hours.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13818559*
> If you want to stress your CPU there is no better substitute than Folding 24/7 or running Prime95 for a few hours.


Aside from LinX/Intel Burn Test, as they produce a higher load temp than Prime95 does.


----------



## moonmanas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin;13819750*
> Aside from LinX/Intel Burn Test, as they produce a higher load temp than Prime95 does.


OCCT too can often show faults up within an hour that prime won't in 7 hours


----------



## Ceadderman

Haha true, but since I don't have Intel or OCCT Folding and Prime95 are where it's at for me.







lol

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## EuRomer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Try looking up Prime95 at Softpedia.com and run that for a bit. That should stress your CPU under full load. No game is going to cut it. Most games don't use more than 2 Cores. I Fold, and my average temp with the Stock cooler(H50 is on it's way to the new owner)is 48c. Of course both of my CPUs' are lapped. My 955 BE is 15c lower than Stock when I use that and this 965 BE is 10c lower in temp give or take the temps of a Stock chip.









If you want to stress your CPU there is no better substitute than Folding 24/7 or running Prime95 for a few hours.









~Ceadder











thanks! will try to look into that, will give you an update! thanks!


----------



## EuRomer

Idle:









After Prime95: About 10 mins.









Are my temps ok? Thanks!


----------



## Killhouse

Great temps, very similar to mine and a very similar setup


----------



## EuRomer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Great temps, very similar to mine and a very similar setup











Thanks! Will try to run Prime95 over the weekend for a couple of hours or so.. Let's see what happens. Though i'm not overclocked yet, will still research on how to do it, don't wanna mess up a brand new build.


----------



## prznar1

like Corsair said, H100 will be shipped later then 10th of this month.


----------



## valoskatr

stripped the screw holes on my rad







what do i do now?


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valoskatr;13823695*
> stripped the screw holes on my rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what do i do now?


find somebody with a tap and die set that can fix the holes for you. Or try using bigger screws with the same threads per inch.


----------



## valoskatr

k thanks for the help


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valoskatr;13823695*
> stripped the screw holes on my rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what do i do now?


Pick up some rubber sound-dampening fan mounts - they have a little rubber bit that will pop through the hole. Look for it from your preferred seller under sound dampening and anti-vibration kits.

Temporarily, use a rubber band to hold the fan in place.


----------



## TheArtOfMeh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin;13817702*
> I like to use CPU-Z/Speedfan when I'm doing stress tests. I haven't even touched AMD Overdrive for a long time (nor have it installed). Also, just to let you know, the safe limit for PhenomII chips is 1.55v, so anything past that is considered likely to fry something (VRMs most likely).
> 
> Unless you run your cpu as a dual or tri-core I wouldn't go past 1.55v for long periods of time. I did 1.6v for my old 955 C2 and it fried my board's VRMs after a few hours. The CPU still survived, but I had to RMA my board.
> 
> Your board has better VRMs than mine though, so you're less likely to see the same result as me, but I recommend going for a lower overclock as 100-200mhz doesn't add much in benchmarks/gaming.


Thanks, I've taken my overclock off for now due to such high voltages being needed (or at least being shown in CPU-Z), however it is my ultimate goal to get to 4Ghz as a 24/7/365 overclock.
I have been watching the temperatures on my VRM's whilst I have been overclocking and the highest my VRM's have gotten is 30C so im not too worried about those. I think my processor prefers high voltages as dropping it down to stock isnt stable when running an intel burn test but with high voltages it is.
Im going to try overclocking my other components to max first and then push up the processor last, but at least i know the H60 is able to handle the heat from high voltages (up to 1.60v) and a 4Ghz clock speed, it didnt even pass 58C on load. Its such an amazing cooler, i cant even hear it over my idling graphics card.


----------



## Caleal

My recent H70 + spare parts mod for my crappy old HP Pavilion with a Phenom x4 9650 CPU and 9800GT video card.










Ditched the aluminum rad for a spare Swiftech MCR220 rad.









EK FC88 water block.









The heart of the system.









Fun build, especially cramming it in a mini ATX system.


----------



## EuRomer

Ok, so just an update, moved the h50 pump to system header instead of the cpu header, and this is the result.

Idle:









Prime95 (30 mins):









What do you guys think? Are my temps OK? Thanks!


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks about right. My 955 BE would put out about 48c at full load with the H50. Your 965 running stock runs a tad hotter than the 955 BE @ stock so that's reasonable I think.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## CircuitFreak

Your looking for

140w X4 965 max temp 65C
125w X4 965 (C3 stepping) max temp 62C

as long as you stay under those numbers you should be fine


----------



## EuRomer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CircuitFreak*


Your looking for

140w X4 965 max temp 65C
125w X4 965 (C3 stepping) max temp 62C

as long as you stay under those numbers you should be fine



this made me understand it more.

thanks guys!

btw, what fans do you recommend for the push/pull config? i'm currently using (2) coolermaster fans from the 4-pack i got. are they good enough? or you have better suggestions?

thanks again!


----------



## iCrap

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EuRomer*


this made me understand it more.

thanks guys!

btw, what fans do you recommend for the push/pull config? i'm currently using (2) coolermaster fans from the 4-pack i got. are they good enough? or you have better suggestions?

thanks again!


Cooler master 4 pack? can you link to that.

oh and to answer your question get AP 15 Gentle Typhoon.


----------



## Ceadderman

I like and will always recommend Yate Loon 120mm fans. From High Speed to Low Speed. They are all very good and have great static pressure, which is what you need for Radiators.









I run High Speeds in the summer adjusted by my Rheosmart Controller and Medium Speeds the rest of the year because High Speeds can on my nerves a bit.









~Ceadder


----------



## azure1394

New guy, just wanted to say hello. Lots of good info here. Havn't had time to read all the posts yet, but like what I see.

Running the H70 on an i7 975, push/pull intake with a window kit pulling outside air in, 6 months now with no negative effects. Using High backpressure Mechatronics fans. Core temps variable, usually in the 30's idle up to 4.3 OC. Redoing OC after ram addition (18 gigs total) presently 4.1 OC.

Open forum is a wonderful idea, the number of posts here make that evident. Would enjoy sharing info with the group...


----------



## Killhouse

Welcome to OCN and the club Azure1394.

Sounds like a nice setup you have there


----------



## Darkjamzi

Ordered the H50 last week, should arrive on Monday can't wait!! 

I'll put this as an exhaust as my PSU will be blowing hot air out of the case just above it, so am afraid it will just suck in that air if put as an intake. The side of my case has a fan that should blow cold air directly in the path of the radiator, so fingers crossed it all will work nice.


----------



## Killhouse

Sounds sensible, hope you enjoy it


----------



## EuRomer

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *iCrap*   Cooler master 4 pack? can you link to that.

oh and to answer your question get AP 15 Gentle Typhoon.  
Here's what you're looking for..

  Cooler Master 120mm Silent Case Fan 4-in-1 Value Pack - (R4-S2S-124K-GP):Amazon:Electronics
They are so quiet and for me it works well. Just wondering if there are better ones..


----------



## iCrap

That link 404ed. But is this it?

  Amazon.com: Cooler Master 120mm Silent Case Fan 4-in-1 Value Pack - (R4-S2S-124K-GP): Electronics


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Hmmm, I really want the radiator of the H70 but with the pump of the H60. Guess I'll just have to wait on the H80...


----------



## EuRomer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap;13833517*
> That link 404ed. But is this it? Amazon.com: Cooler Master 120mm Silent Case Fan 4-in-1 Value Pack - (R4-S2S-124K-GP): Electronics


Sorry bout that. But yeah thats it!

Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk


----------



## Hitokiri Battousai

ok working on a build and was gonna get a h70 (or H80 if its around by the time i get everything worked out and start getting parts)

now i was gonna use this setup HAF 922 case w/ a CM Megaflow on the side for intake and the H70 set up for exhaust sound good?

was also gonna swap out the fans on the H70 for X2 Cooler Master SickleFlow 120 R4-L2R-20AR-R1 120mm Silent operation Red LED case fan would i need and extra connecters or could i just use the fan connecter the h70 came with?


----------



## Narokuu

jsut orderd the h70... not realizing that i orderd and AM3+ board as well.... will this work ok on here... *crosses fingers*


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dustin88;13836150*
> jsut orderd the h70... not realizing that i orderd and AM3+ board as well.... will this work ok on here... *crosses fingers*


Yes.


----------



## Narokuu

correction... its the h60... still crossing fingers


----------



## acavella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dustin88;13836275*
> correction... its the h60... still crossing fingers


H60 will work with your AMD board.

Sent from my HTC Wildfire using Tapatalk


----------



## Narokuu

i know its compatible with the m4a79t deluxe. but is it compatible with the crosshair V....


----------



## acavella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dustin88;13836685*
> i know its compatible with the m4a79t deluxe. but is it compatible with the crosshair V....


It will be compatible with any AM3 board. The coolers are based on the socket designs, not the motherboards. You look all this information up on corsairs product page.

Sent from my HTC Wildfire using Tapatalk


----------



## Narokuu

sorry about all the questions, i was jstu worreid that AM3 and AM3+ were different. and I.E. with my luck it wouldnt work. thanks for the help +rep


----------



## lawrencendlw

So, has anyone heard about when Corsair is going to drop ship the H80's and H100's that have been pre ordered? I was told the 10th by customer service at ftiComputer.com but obviously that wasn't true.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## acavella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dustin88;13837148*
> sorry about all the questions, i was jstu worreid that AM3 and AM3+ were different. and I.E. with my luck it wouldnt work. thanks for the help +rep


No worries. Nothing wrong with making an informed purchase.


----------



## azure1394

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killhouse;13832509*
> Welcome to OCN and the club Azure1394.
> 
> Sounds like a nice setup you have there


Thanks for the add and compliments on my system. Your case mods are quite enviable, Very Nice! Glad to join the group!


----------



## Starbomba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EuRomer;13833486*
> Here's what you're looking for..
> 
> Cooler Master 120mm Silent Case Fan 4-in-1 Value Pack - (R4-S2S-124K-GP):Amazon:Electronics
> 
> They are so quiet and for me it works well. Just wondering if there are better ones..


Have you noticed any gain over the stock fan? I'm considering buying them for my HTPC's H50, and as temporary for my H70 until my typhoons arrive









I'm also considering buying these fans, since they push the same amount of air as the stock ones, but at 19 dBA. Plus, the blue LED would match my setup perfectly


----------



## tubers

Guys, excuse me.

How do you suggest I clean the H50?

Can I just blow the fins and radiators? (using my mouth)?

Or can I also use compressed air?

Any other tips please?


----------



## Narokuu

clean it like any other fan, compressed air is fine. or if u power down your machine you can always use a damp cloth on the fins of the fan =)


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tubers;13838462*
> Guys, excuse me.
> 
> How do you suggest I clean the H50?
> 
> Can I just blow the fins and radiators? (using my mouth)?
> 
> Or can I also use compressed air?
> 
> Any other tips please?


Damp soft toothbrush. Or you could put it under the tap and blast it. The use a hair dryer. I do this with every HS/WC Rad.


----------



## tubers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dustin88;13838543*
> clean it like any other fan, compressed air is fine. or if u power down your machine you can always use a damp cloth on the fins of the fan =)


Damp cloth.. hmm.. How are the fins? Heard they can easily be bent making the H50 noisy?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW;13838676*
> Damp soft toothbrush. Or you could put it under the tap and blast it. The use a hair dryer. I do this with every HS/WC Rad.


That sounds crazy xD

Guess I'll try with blowing it manually with my mouth and compressed air xD

+reps









*Anyway:*

Any easy way to control the fans with a *free* software? I'd like to easily ramp it up and down while in windows.

*SpeedFan* looks confusing









*ASUS AI SUITE II* gives me stutters in games..

*Also, where can I buy the exact same 120mm fan that came with the H50?*

Are there actually benefits of *"sandwiching"* the rad with two of these?


----------



## BradleyW

Crazy? Well, i am very crazy. Trust me, washing a PC with water is the best way!


----------



## tubers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW;13838755*
> Crazy? Well, i am very crazy. Trust me, washing a PC with water is the best way!


LOL sorry bout that. Didn't really mean anything bad.. it just sounds too much of a risk for me xD Having no back up budget in case stuff goes wrong xD


----------



## BradleyW

Just uninstall your H50 and put the rad in a bowl of water. Clean it, dry it. I've done this with every HS and Rad. Nothing to worry about.


----------



## Starbomba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tubers*
> Any easy way to control the fans with a *free* software? I'd like to easily ramp it up and down while in windows.


I'd like to know as well








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tubers*
> *Also, where can I buy the exact same 120mm fan that came with the H50?*


Doubt you can find them, those are exclusive for these coolers, unless you buy them used. There are _many_ other (and better) options, so don't worry about it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tubers*
> Are there actually benefits of *"sandwiching"* the rad with two of these?


You get lower temps, as the rad is cooler, water is cooler, cpu is cooler.

I clean my H50/70 with canned air, a brush, and my mouth








There's no harm in soaking the rad only, as long as you keep water off the pump you'd be OK.


----------



## CircuitFreak

SpeedFan should do the trick of letting you turn the fan RPM up or down if you insist on software to do it. Get a fan controller if you have the spare drive bay IMO though.


----------



## Hitokiri Battousai

ok working on a build and was gonna get a h70 (or H80 if its around by the time i get everything worked out and start getting parts)

now i was gonna use this setup HAF 922 case w/ a Cooler Master 200mm Megaflow on the side for intake and the H70 set up for exhaust sound good?

was also gonna swap out the fans on the H70 for X2 Cooler Master SickleFlow 120 R4-L2R-20AR-R1 120mm Silent operation Red LED case fan would i need and extra connecters or could i just use the fan connecter the h70 came with?

or can someone recommend me a LED fan that is more powerful and just as quiet/quieter

sort of reposting in case anyone missed it im curious to see what people may suggest,or any input really this comp is gonna be basically my first build (i have helped on others many many years ago)


----------



## CircuitFreak

Those fans look fine here is the match up

Corsair stock fans

< CM Sickleflow
50.35-61.2 CFM

< 69.69 CFM----(higher is better)
1.8-2.3mm H20 static pressure (each)< 2.94 mmH2O--(higher is better)
26-31.5dBA of noise per fan

< 19 dBA

(Lower is better)

replace away!!

The connector should be interchangeable


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tubers;13838817*
> LOL sorry bout that. Didn't really mean anything bad.. it just sounds too much of a risk for me xD Having no back up budget in case stuff goes wrong xD


The H50 uses Aluminum fins so it won't rust like steel or get discolored like copper. I've only used compressed air on my rad, but it's never been dirty enough to need to use water.


----------



## Hitokiri Battousai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CircuitFreak;13839497*
> Those fans look fine here is the match up
> 
> Corsair stock fans
> 
> < CM Sickleflow
> 50.35-61.2 CFM
> 
> < 69.69 CFM----(higher is better)
> 1.8-2.3mm H20 static pressure (each)< 2.94 mmH2O--(higher is better)
> 26-31.5dBA of noise per fan
> 
> < 19 dBA
> 
> (Lower is better)
> 
> replace away!!
> 
> The connector should be interchangeable


k thanks


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caleal;13829954*
> The heart of the system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fun build, especially cramming it in a mini ATX system.


Wow, I'm surprised the H70 pump/block can handle a loop with both the CPU and a video card.

Of course, it's really not an H70 any more other than the pump. Good job cramming it all in, for sure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EuRomer;13830433*
> btw, what fans do you recommend for the push/pull config? i'm currently using (2) coolermaster fans from the 4-pack i got. are they good enough? or you have better suggestions?
> 
> thanks again!


There's a list of fans on the first page of this thread. There are a ton of different fans that do a great job with these coolers. I would think, considering the temps you're getting right now, that your fans are working fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tubers;13838462*
> Guys, excuse me.
> How do you suggest I clean the H50?
> Can I just blow the fins and radiators? (using my mouth)?
> Or can I also use compressed air?
> Any other tips please?


You answered your own question.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tubers;13838714*
> *Anyway:*
> Any easy way to control the fans with a *free* software? I'd like to easily ramp it up and down while in windows.


You can always connect them to a fan controller, or your motherboard fan header. There are a couple of things you should know however:

1: Make sure the combined power draw of the fans is lower than the power limit on your CPU FAN header.

2: Make sure your motherboard can control 3 pin fans. If it cannot, then to use this method you need 4 pin PWM fans.

3: In either case you will require a splitter so you can plug two fans (push pull) into one motherboard header.

4: If you are using 3 pin fans and two of them draw more power than your motherboard can handle from the CPU header, then you'll have to use a fan controller (hardware). The other option here is that you could plug one 3 pin fan into the CPU FAN header and the other 3 pin fan into a Chassis FAN header, however you may end up with the fans running at different speeds which could hinder performance. Of course you could use speedfan to control the fans individually and manually match the RPMs

5: If you go with 4 pin PWM fans and they also draw more power than your CPU header can provide then you need a 4 pin PWM splitter that draws power through a power supply molex connector while still sending a tac signal and receiving a PWM signal from the CPU header on your motherboard. However, if your two PWM fans are within the limits of your CPU fan header you can use a regular PWM splitter.


----------



## pest1lence

Just got my H70 early fathers day present








My question is I have a HAF 932 should I go with the push/pull method
or exhaust. As far as fans go in case they r all stock in the case and I have 2 5770's in crossfire. Thnx for the advice.


----------



## Starbomba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pest1lence;13839799*
> Just got my H70 early fathers day present
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My question is I have a HAF 932 should I go with the push/pull method
> or exhaust. As far as fans go in case they r all stock in the case and I have 2 5770's in crossfire. Thnx for the advice.


push pull can be done both in intake and exhaust. as long as you have 2 fans taking air in the same direction it is push pull

i'd set it out as exhaust. both my H50 and H70 are like that, and even tho intake reduces temps it's not by a huge margin (maybe 2-3°c)

What i'd do is buy 3 fans, 2 for the top as exhaust, and another just above the cards as intake to improve airflow and lower all temps.


----------



## tubers

Okay thanks guys









So, since you guys mentioned I wouldn't find a brand new, exact same fan that was provided with the H50.. What would you guys recommend?

12 bucks tops xD on each fan.. Seems like a lot of fan though.. I wonder if my board would support it.


----------



## aicha

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BradleyW*


Crazy? Well, i am very crazy. Trust me, washing a PC with water is the best way!



I washed my GTX 285







now it quiet, looks new and it works !


----------



## ra_27

OK So, if I have this right I'll be able to buy a Corsair H100 and put it in my Corsair 600T case without any trouble at all.

I'm hoping I have that right cause I do at some stage want to Overclock my i7 920 and I want to keep it as cool as I can.

I don't want to go to the trouble of a custom kit as I would not trust myself to get it right and I do not want to buy a new system for a few years I say at less 3 on the out side before I get a new one.

So if the the H100 a no go, I'm going to have to go with the H80 or H70.


----------



## Starbomba

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *tubers*   Okay thanks guys









So, since you guys mentioned I wouldn't find a brand new, exact same fan that was provided with the H50.. What would you guys recommend?

12 bucks tops xD on each fan.. Seems like a lot of fan though.. I wonder if my board would support it.  
The best option are the Gentle Typhoon fans, tho those can be a tad costly and hard to find. You can find a list of the most used fans on the first page of the thread.

Personally, i'd choose between    these (4 fans for $14, and thy're very silent, perfect for my HTPC) and the    SickleFlow (better CFM than the stock fans with way less noise, plus blue LED, perfect for my sig rig, also, there are with red and green LEDs).

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *CircuitFreak*   Corsair stock fans-------------------< CM Sickleflow
50.35-61.2 CFM---------------------< 69.69 CFM----(higher is better)
1.8-2.3mm H20 static pressure (each)< 2.94 mmH2O--(higher is better)
26-31.5dBA of noise per fan ---------< 19 dBA-------(Lower is better)  
Although if you can afford AP-15 Gentle Typhoons, that'd be the best option.

Also, even the most cheapo mobo can support at least 3 fans, one being PWM. Your mobo can have 6 fans connected, 3 of them can even be PWM, pretty nice. I bet you can run outta room for fans before running out of connectors









Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *ra_27*   OK So, if I have this right I'll be able to buy a Corsair H100 and put it in my Corsair 600T case without any trouble at all.

I'm hoping I have that right cause I do at some stage want to Overclock my i7 920 and I want to keep it as cool as I can.

I don't want to go to the trouble of a custom kit as I would not trust myself to get it right and I do not want to buy a new system for a few years I say at less 3 on the out side before I get a new one.

So if the the H100 a no go, I'm going to have to go with the H80 or H70.  
Yes, Corsair made the H100 so it could fit any Corsair case.


----------



## Starbomba

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Caleal*


My recent H70 + spare parts mod for my crappy old HP Pavilion with a Phenom x4 9650 CPU and 9800GT video card.










Ditched the aluminum rad for a spare Swiftech MCR220 rad.









EK FC88 water block.









The heart of the system.









Fun build, especially cramming it in a mini ATX system.










Interesting project, how are your temps?
I feel like doing this on my H50 and HTPC to make it more silent, adding my GPU in (it screams like a banshee at full load)


----------



## Shame486

I'd take pics of my Corsair H60 but no camera to do it now.
Anyways got E8500 with Idle temp on chip-32C, core 1-40, core 2-39.
Load temps: chip-46C, core 1-53, core 2-51.
Oced E8500, Vcore-1.28V. Stock H60 Fan,


----------



## alayoubi

what about H100 , is it's Rad made of aluminum like the old ones OR copper ?


----------



## tubers

Yum!

Thanks guys









Wish I had extra bucks now









I would love to try the push pull thing









Are those x4 Fans for 14 bucks PWMs?

http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-120mm-Silent-Value/dp/B000O8I474/]Amazon.com: Cooler Master 120mm Silent Case Fan 4-in-1 Value Pack - (R4-S2S-124K-GP): Electronics[/URL]


----------



## Starbomba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tubers;13846361*
> Yum!
> 
> Thanks guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish I had extra bucks now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would love to try the push pull thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are those x4 Fans for 14 bucks PWMs?
> 
> Amazon.com: Cooler Master 120mm Silent Case Fan 4-in-1 Value Pack - (R4-S2S-124K-GP): Electronics


They are x4 fans for $14, but these are not PWM. PWM have a 4-pin connector, and these have only 3 (2 for power and 1 for the tach to measure therir speed). they're very nice tho, veery silent (just bought them locally, gotta wait for my paycheck to get the SickleFlows for my sig rig, but they did lower noise amount, or better said, they maintained it, two of these in push/pull are the same as the stock fan at pull only at full speed)


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starbomba;13842553*
> Also, even the most cheapo mobo can support at least 3 fans, one being PWM. Your mobo can have 6 fans connected, 3 of them can even be PWM, pretty nice. I bet you can run outta room for fans before running out of connectors


The trick here is to get the fans to run at the same speed, something that will not be achieved if they are plugged into different fan headers.

There is a great list of fans on the first page of this thread. If people would look there they would see an excellent selection of fans people here in this thread have had good resuts from.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tubers;13840508*
> Okay thanks guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, since you guys mentioned I wouldn't find a brand new, exact same fan that was provided with the H50.. What would you guys recommend?
> 
> 12 bucks tops xD on each fan.. Seems like a lot of fan though.. I wonder if my board would support it.


If you want to go with PWM (I did), what you should do is purchase or make a PWM fan splitter so you can run them from the same fan header (CPU FAN). If you can find some Scythe High Speed 2000 RPM PWM fans, they work excellent.

http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/acc/109/sy1225sl12hp_detail.html

If you want to make a PWM fan splitter, here is a diagram:










If you purchase a PWM splitter, make sure you get one that has a molex connector to pull the power for your two PWM fans from your PSU. They don't cost any more, but it will prevent possible overdrawing of power from your motherboard. If you have parts kicking around, you can make one. I made one for my system and it wasn't very hard, but you need all the parts shown in the diagram. If your fans both pull less power together than what your CPU header can handle then you can get a normal PWM splitter without the molex power connector, however I would still recommend using the splitter with the molex connector. There's no point pulling an amp of power from your motherboard when you can pull it directly from your PSU instead.


----------



## tiramoko

im looking for a new fan for my h50. currently have 2 blademaster in it which i got it from my hyper 212+. But since my brother will get a new pc, i will use the blademaster for the hyper 212+ again. any recommendation?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tiramoko;13850773*
> im looking for a new fan for my h50. currently have 2 blademaster in it which i got it from my hyper 212+. But since my brother will get a new pc, i will use the blademaster for the hyper 212+ again. any recommendation?


Are you going for cheap price for good performance (Yate Loon Medium/High Speeds), noise per performance (Gentle Typhoons), good performance with a bit higher noise and decent pricing (Akasa Vipers). Tons of other great fans on the first post.


----------



## tubers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starbomba;13846461*
> They are x4 fans for $14, but these are not PWM. PWM have a 4-pin connector, and these have only 3 (2 for power and 1 for the tach to measure therir speed). they're very nice tho, veery silent (just bought them locally, gotta wait for my paycheck to get the SickleFlows for my sig rig, but they did lower noise amount, or better said, they maintained it, two of these in push/pull are the same as the stock fan at pull only at full speed)


How can you adjust the setting of these fans? Or there's only one setting for each? If so, is it 99% that those 4 in the pack would run at the same speed?

Would it ruin the PC/CPU if the fans in a push/pull config are not running in the same speed?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;13849009*
> The trick here is to get the fans to run at the same speed, something that will not be achieved if they are plugged into different fan headers.
> 
> There is a great list of fans on the first page of this thread. If people would look there they would see an excellent selection of fans people here in this thread have had good resuts from.
> 
> If you want to go with PWM (I did), what you should do is purchase or make a PWM fan splitter so you can run them from the same fan header (CPU FAN). If you can find some Scythe High Speed 2000 RPM PWM fans, they work excellent.
> 
> http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/acc/109/sy1225sl12hp_detail.html
> 
> If you want to make a PWM fan splitter, here is a diagram:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you purchase a PWM splitter, make sure you get one that has a molex connector to pull the power for your two PWM fans from your PSU. They don't cost any more, but it will prevent possible overdrawing of power from your motherboard. If you have parts kicking around, you can make one. I made one for my system and it wasn't very hard, but you need all the parts shown in the diagram. If your fans both pull less power together than what your CPU header can handle then you can get a normal PWM splitter without the molex power connector, however I would still recommend using the splitter with the molex connector. There's no point pulling an amp of power from your motherboard when you can pull it directly from your PSU instead.


Thank you. Interesting.

Any idea where to buy the splitter with molex? Can't find in Amazon xD


----------



## Starbomba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;13849009*
> The trick here is to get the fans to run at the same speed, something that will not be achieved if they are plugged into different fan headers.


I thought 3-pin fans ran full speed no matter where you plugged them. At least mine do so, both the CM and the stock H70 fans, which are 3-pin.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tubers;13852684*
> How can you adjust the setting of these fans? Or there's only one setting for each? If so, is it 99% that those 4 in the pack would run at the same speed?
> 
> Would it ruin the PC/CPU if the fans in a push/pull config are not running in the same speed?


These fans run @ ~1200 RPM forever, unless you find controls in your mobo to regulate them manually (usually in the temperature monitoring section of the BIOS), plug them into a fan controller, or use a software like SpeedFan.

They're so silent you wouldn't mind running them at full speed tho.

And no, you won't ruin your CPU. Temps might be a tad higher since the fans are unsynched and they won't be directing air the same way, maybe even causing more noise. But temps would still be low enough.


----------



## nicolasl46

Who wants to see Gentle Typhoons at full speed in a CM Storm Scout? [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlKSQgarMSc[/ame]


----------



## Kokin

Here I thought 40-50dba was loud...


----------



## moonmanas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicolasl46;13854319*
> Who wants to see Gentle Typhoons at full speed in a CM Storm Scout? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlKSQgarMSc


Even at the low speed that whine would drive me nuts


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonmanas;13854585*
> Even at the low speed that whine would drive me nuts


It can go lower, but you will still heard them. Eventually when I get some money, I might change them. I wasn't expecting the whining noise at low rpms


----------



## BradleyW

I try to never go about 24dba.


----------



## ManOnFire

I have the 1850rpm GT's and they are totally silent at there lowest....I run mine for silence in a media center setup and at 800rpm they are truely silent.

Granted they are a whirling typhoon at full speed but...its in the name! lol


----------



## WALSRU

Oh please that's not so bad.

Excaliburs in push/pull! Everytime I boot up I feel like I need to strap in


----------



## Cyborg34572

Jesus 1837 pages, theres alot of us lol


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyborg34572;13855580*
> Jesus 1837 pages, theres alot of us lol


I wonder how many letters have been typed in the world? Ohhhhhh?


----------



## Killhouse

I try to keep up


----------



## Starbomba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WALSRU;13855550*
> Oh please that's not so bad.
> 
> Excaliburs in push/pull! Everytime I boot up I feel like I need to strap in


That's the main reason i changed back to the stock fans, temps be damned. I plan to buy some blue SickleFlows tho








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyborg34572;13855580*
> Jesus 1837 pages, theres alot of us lol


Not really, the few alive posters post too much


----------



## ManOnFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starbomba;13855920*
> I plan to buy some blue SickleFlows tho


I had some sickleflows....didn't like them


----------



## acavella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicolasl46;13854319*
> Who wants to see Gentle Typhoons at full speed in a CM Storm Scout? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlKSQgarMSc


Jesus, that god aweful noise is a joke right?


----------



## acavella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WALSRU;13855550*
> Oh please that's not so bad.
> 
> Excaliburs in push/pull! Everytime I boot up I feel like I need to strap in


You must have some busted or seriously dirty Excaliburs...because if mine sounded remotely that loud I would chuck them out the window. All I hear out of mine is the sound of air being blown and I run mine at full rpm at all times...


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acavella;13856675*
> Jesus, that god aweful noise is a joke right?


I wish it was a joke, those things are damn loud.


----------



## WALSRU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acavella;13856709*
> You must have some busted or seriously dirty Excaliburs...because if mine sounded remotely that loud I would chuck them out the window. All I hear out of mine is the sound of air being blown and I run mine at full rpm at all times...


They're brand new in a month old case, it's definitely not dirt. They're a very strange fan, basically no motor noise but the whooshing under load is hilarious. It doesn't help that I got reference graphics cards and they're constantly in a "no I'm the loudest in the case" competition.


----------



## scaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WALSRU;13857221*
> They're brand new in a month old case, it's definitely not dirt. They're a very strange fan, basically no motor noise but the whooshing under load is hilarious. It doesn't help that I got reference graphics cards and they're constantly in a "no I'm the loudest in the case" competition.


LOL a guy at a local LAN party like massivelan.com had a bunch of crazy fans that I can only compare it to a jet engine. We measured that his fans alone where pulling more than half an amp.


----------



## WALSRU

^ I take my hat off to that brave gentleman


----------



## acavella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WALSRU;13857221*
> They're brand new in a month old case, it's definitely not dirt. They're a very strange fan, basically no motor noise but the whooshing under load is hilarious. It doesn't help that I got reference graphics cards and they're constantly in a "no I'm the loudest in the case" competition.


I agree, they do generate a serious "whoosh". Pushing through the rad only amplifies that whoosh as well.

That video though, I've heard small block V8s that are quieter.


----------



## Squabbler

Testing right now for temps.. Will join up once I get them!


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tubers;13838462*
> Guys, excuse me.
> 
> How do you suggest I clean the H50?
> 
> Can I just blow the fins and radiators? (using my mouth)?
> 
> Or can I also use compressed air?
> 
> Any other tips please?


Dude, I strongly recommending *DATA VAC DUSTER* to everyone include you.









Check out, another thread: Cleanup for lower temps, quieter operation , there you go!


----------



## Frontsidebus

Anybody hear anything about when these new coolers are expected to ship? The 10th has been and gone.


----------



## tubers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG;13857979*
> Dude, I strongly recommending *DATA VAC DUSTER* to everyone include you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out, another thread: Cleanup for lower temps, quieter operation , there you go!


Thanks interesting.. There was one person here in OCN who gave a recommendation tho.. It was similar but only 35 bucks









Seems a little steep that DataVac.. then again.. I am just short on budget for such ATM..

Any other recommendation?


----------



## Starbomba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tubers;13858310*
> Thanks interesting.. There was one person here in OCN who gave a recommendation tho.. It was similar but only 35 bucks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems a little steep that DataVac.. then again.. I am just short on budget for such ATM..
> 
> Any other recommendation?


Well, IMHO, it is a good long-term investment. How much do compressed air cans cost? with maybe 4-5 which might run out in a month you get that and that'll last you a couple years or more.

I wish i had the money to buy it tho, with cleaning 8 pc's a month i ran through canned air like no tomorrow


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starbomba;13842553*
> The best option are the Gentle Typhoon fans, tho those can be a tad costly and hard to find. You can find a list of the most used fans on the first page of the thread.


I'm not that impressed with GTs as rad fans, to be honest, since they have a fairly low static pressure. They're much better as case fans. My personal preference for rad fans are the Akasa Vipers. About the same price as GT AP-15s, with better airflow and static pressure; and similar noise profile. The Vipers are PWM fan, so you'll need to make sure that your Mobo has a 4-pin PWM header for the CPU fan.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tubers;13852684*
> Would it ruin the PC/CPU if the fans in a push/pull config are not running in the same speed?


No, but it would mean that your cooling is going to be crap. The fans should ideally be running at roughly the same speed. If not, make sure that the pull fan is running faster than the push fan (running the push fan fast than the pull fan won't hurt anything, it just won't move as much air).
Quote:


> Any idea where to buy the splitter with molex? Can't find in Amazon xD


FrozenCPU.com or NewEgg.com will have it. I got mine from NewEgg IIRC.


----------



## lawrencendlw

Anyone buy some AP-31's that decided that they are just to loud for you? I'll take them off of your hands. I'll pay of course. Just pm me your price shipped and I'll take care of it. Otherwise I'll snag some off of performance pc's or somewhere.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## Ceadderman

I have to say that I didn't run a Molex Splitter with my fans. I have a 4pin splitter that I used and plugged it into the CPU header via 3.5 Sunbeam RheoSmart PWM splitter. Worked just fine. I cut out the Molex portion of all my fans, since my MoBo has 8 fan headers. If I can't find a spot to run up to three Yate Loon(6v) fans there is a problem and I must get in to see a shrink.









When I set up my 360 setup I'll be running three 3pin splitters and connecting them into my Controller. Don't need to PWM six fans. Would be awesome to have the MoBo control them all but really won't need to since I'll be dialing them back as temps permit.









Tried to update my Google.doc info to show Former owner but stupid thing wouldn't let me. So could you update it Killhouse? Don't wish to be removed since I may get another Hydro Series cooler once I get my AM2 Folder up and running but would like to show that I know longer have my H50 without removing the modifications I ran.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## lawrencendlw

You could send it to me and I'll POP it in my second rig. You know I'm looking for a cooler. I'll call you in a few and talk to you about it.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw*


You could send it to me and I'll POP it in my second rig. You know I'm looking for a cooler. I'll call you in a few and talk to you about it.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


Is already gone bro. Sent it out last week.









~Ceadder


----------



## scaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicolasl46*


Who wants to see Gentle Typhoons at full speed in a CM Storm Scout? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlKSQgarMSc


That loudness is from the fan blads against the radiator. Fan shouds make the work of a difference.


----------



## Ceadderman

I will never again think that Yate Loon High Speed Silents are counter to their name. Those are whisper quiet in comparison.

Vibration Dampeners will help solve that too. But I think a lot of the noise is the reverb off the fan grill of the case more than anything else. That's just god awful imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scaz*


That loudness is from the fan blads against the radiator. Fan shouds make the work of a difference.


I do have a shroud (25mm) in there. I have one fan outside the case exhausting>radiator>shroud>fan. This things push so much air is not even funny.


----------



## lawrencendlw

Which gentle typhoon is it? The AP-30's or AP-31's?

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tubers*


How can you adjust the setting of these fans? Or there's only one setting for each? If so, is it 99% that those 4 in the pack would run at the same speed?

Would it ruin the PC/CPU if the fans in a push/pull config are not running in the same speed?

Thank you. Interesting.

Any idea where to buy the splitter with molex? Can't find in Amazon xD


I have seen one available, and I think it may have been on a UK site (not sure)...lemme Google...

Wow, first try....

http://usb.brando.com/pwm-fan-splitt...0c032d015.html

It's actually for "case" fans (it has three leads), but you can use it for two fans as in push/pull. If you look at the connector ends, you'll see that two of them have only three pins inside a four pin connector, and the third one has all four pins. That four pin connector is for your "primary" fan. It can be either push or pull fan, and the only thing making it a "primary" is that it has the 4 pin connector so it is providing the RPM signal to the CPU FAN header. You want only one fan providing this signal so as not to confuse the BIOS about the speed of the fan. This is also why you should make sure to use matched fans since they are more likely to be running at the same speed even though only one tac signal is being used. You can see in the bottom picture that this splitter has a molex connector to power the fans as well as the four pin connector for the CPU FAN header on your mobo.

Considering it has three fan connectors, you could add another fan in your case that would change RPM depending on the temp of the CPU just like your push/pull fans do (if you wanted to). Personally I would likely just cut off the third fan connector and paint, dye or otherwise color all the wires black.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Starbomba*


I thought 3-pin fans ran full speed no matter where you plugged them. At least mine do so, both the CM and the stock H70 fans, which are 3-pin.


That depends on your motherboard. Newer mobos are coming with voltage control on some of the headers, including the CPU FAN header, so they can control 3 pin fans (I think I alluded to this in my last post). If a person wants to control RPMs, and they only have three pin fans, then either their mobo must support it, or they have to get a hardware fan controller. The only other option that I know of is PWM. This is exactly why I chose PWM in the first place. My mobo does not support 3 pin fan control, but I wanted my BIOS to be controlling the CPU cooler fan speeds (H70) automatically.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scaz*


LOL a guy at a local LAN party like massivelan.com had a bunch of crazy fans that I can only compare it to a jet engine. We measured that his fans alone where pulling more than half an amp.


Each one of my Scythe High Speed PWM fans pulls .6A at full speed, that's 1.2A for just those two fans when they're running at full speed. Most 120mm fans run from 1/3 to 1/2 Amp. Of course, I hardly ever run them at full speed (or at least my BIOS doesn't). How did you measure the current draw of the fans? Did you use an Amp meter? That's the only way to get a real measurement. Of course, you can just calculate it from the power rating of the fan, or just read the specs which may list the current draw.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


Dude, I strongly recommending *DATA VAC DUSTER* to everyone include you.


Any compressed air will do fine. I have a compressor I use, combined with a vacuum cleaner it works wonders. I had been looking for a decent compressor for years and finally found a nice 2 gallon 100PSI unit that works great for anything computer related. A vacuum with a nice fuzzy brush attachment works great too.

This:

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...119&CatId=7094

Would be awesome for cleaning computer cases and attachments.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Starbomba*


I wish i had the money to buy it tho, with cleaning 8 pc's a month i ran through canned air like no tomorrow










I picked up this:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en

On sale for $60. Just keep your eyes peeled.


----------



## Ceadderman

Air compressors are not very PC friendly. They can leave you with a thin oily residue on your components.

Just get a blower vac like the one I'm posting for ~$60 and step away from canned/compressed air. You can get them from Amazon in an upright and horizontally opposed system.









That and a cheap $.99 cent 1" paintbrush is all you really need short of a good filter kit from DEMCiFlex.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Air compressors are not very PC friendly. They can leave you with a thin oily residue on your components.

Just get a blower vac like the one I'm posting for ~$60 and step away from canned/compressed air. You can get them from Amazon in an upright and horizontally opposed system.









That and a cheap $.99 cent 1" paintbrush is all you really need short of a good filter kit from DEMCiFlex.









~Ceadder










I've been using a compressor at work for cleaning electronics for over 20 years. I know three computer shops in town who also use compressors, and pretty much all the other electronics shops use a compressor. I have never had any residue come out of any compressor I've ever used. The worst that can be said is if you don't drain it nightly, you may get some moisture in the tank that could come out as water. Plus, any good compressor is filtered as well. I can guarantee you that lots of places use compressors on equipment a lot more expensive than computers.

I would say that air compressors are the best tool for cleaning electronics, IMAO.

Of course, I am not talking about compressors that have been used for driving tools that may need oil added to the compressor. Only oil-less compressors should be used for cleaning anything.


----------



## Narokuu

orderd my H60 last night, will be here by thursday, along with a Crosshair V cant wait for the new BD as well, going to cool this like a pro!


----------



## homestyle

Given the rad is aluminum, what is the longevity of this cooler?


----------



## dizbmikuni

can anyone tell me if there's any problems bringing this as a carry on attached to a computer on an airplane? (due to liquid restrictions)

Anyone have experience taking this along? Will the pipes rupture or leak because of the pressurized cabin?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dizbmikuni;13864565*
> can anyone tell me if there's any problems bringing this as a carry on attached to a computer on an airplane? (due to liquid restrictions)
> 
> Anyone have experience taking this along? Will the pipes rupture or leak because of the pressurized cabin?


May be best to remove before flight and install when you get to where you're going. Making sure that it's well padded in your baggage of course. Some restrictions have been lifted but it's best not to take a chance and have to leave your Computer behind for someone to ship to you.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle;13864262*
> Given the rad is aluminum, what is the longevity of this cooler?


I'm sure some of the members here have been using it since it was released in 2009.


----------



## moonmanas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dizbmikuni;13864565*
> can anyone tell me if there's any problems bringing this as a carry on attached to a computer on an airplane? (due to liquid restrictions)
> 
> Anyone have experience taking this along? Will the pipes rupture or leak because of the pressurized cabin?


Just bring a cat with you like one in pic and hide a loudly ticking clock in pc and you'll be fine


----------



## Ceadderman

That's just so wrong. Poor Kitteh.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## dizbmikuni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13864618*
> May be best to remove before flight and install when you get to where you're going. Making sure that it's well padded in your baggage of course. Some restrictions have been lifted but it's best not to take a chance and have to leave your Computer behind for someone to ship to you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I'm actually in Japan now and heading back to the states for vacation (and to assemble my computer).

In doing that does that just basically mean I have to reseat/reinstall the cpu/h50 every time I get on a plane?

Although has anyone had any experience in traveling with this?


----------



## moonmanas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dizbmikuni;13866371*
> 
> Although has anyone had any experience in traveling with this?


I think most people would have a laptop or ipad type thing, and not cart a whole pc with them around the planet building it as they go 10/10 for being different though lol, doesn't it just go in the cargo bay on the plane?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dizbmikuni;13866371*
> I'm actually in Japan now and heading back to the states for vacation (and to assemble my computer).
> 
> In doing that does that just basically mean I have to reseat/reinstall the cpu/h50 every time I get on a plane?
> 
> Although has anyone had any experience in traveling with this?


dude I would just get a nice gaming laptop to travel with, will be much easier and much nicer all around.


----------



## dizbmikuni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;13866644*
> dude I would just get a nice gaming laptop to travel with, will be much easier and much nicer all around.


Unfortunately my needs really align more with an actual desktop. I want to be able to upgrade it in the future as well. I'm going to be taking a mini tower (probably a lian li v354) which should be okay but I'm having issues with the best cooler to use.

No one else has any experiences with it on an airplane?

Or barring that, is the h50 quick/easy to disassemble/reassemble on an intel 1155 (2500k) motherboard?


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dizbmikuni;13867264*
> Unfortunately my needs really align more with an actual desktop. I want to be able to upgrade it in the future as well. I'm going to be taking a mini tower (probably a lian li v354) which should be okay but I'm having issues with the best cooler to use.
> 
> No one else has any experiences with it on an airplane?
> 
> Or barring that, is the h50 quick/easy to disassemble/reassemble on an intel 1155 (2500k) motherboard?


Well most people don't fly with desktops, they fly with laptops. Im not sure what a desktop has over a laptop besides the upgradability. You can find a decent laptop now for like 1200 dollars with a quad core and a good video card.

I don't have any experience with an H50 or any other all in one. You might be able to ask the air line, explain to them it is a contained system that has no way of leaking.


----------



## Hydraulic

Question!

I have a coolermaster cm690 with an i7-970, currently I have the h50 push/pull as intake from the back of the case. I also have two 120 mm fans as intakes in the front and side, and one 120mm fan as exhaust from the top. my 470 has the exhaust in the back. My temps for folding at 3.75 ghz are maxing out a 66c but stay around 61c.

Does that sound right? I am using the paste that came with the i7-970 in the little packet.

Question 2:
I hate having my h50 push hot air into the case, but many places I have read say that is best. I don;t have room to put a shroud on it, so two fans in push pull is the best I can do. Would 1 fan with a shroud do better than 2 fans push pull, would it give it more pressure?

I have several fans laying around, so if there is a different configuration you can come up with for better flow, please let me know!

Thanks!


----------



## [email protected]

If anyone recently bought a H100 yet and got it please post pictures because i would love to see what it looks like closer in actual picture. I plan to get one maybe next month.


----------



## 0mar32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squabbler;13857820*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing right now for temps.. Will join up once I get them!


What are the fans you're using ?


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13862286*
> Air compressors are not very PC friendly. They can leave you with a thin oily residue on your components.


Not necessarily. You want a compressor intended for airbrush use. A good one should cost no more than US$150, and you can often get them used for quite a bit less than that. No problem with oils or other crud.


----------



## Hydraulic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dizbmikuni;13864565*
> can anyone tell me if there's any problems bringing this as a carry on attached to a computer on an airplane? (due to liquid restrictions)
> 
> Anyone have experience taking this along? Will the pipes rupture or leak because of the pressurized cabin?


I would think they would leak more in a non pressurized cabin than a pressurized one. It is pressurized to make it similar to the pressure at a lower elevation, so it should be fine.


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hydraulic*


Does that sound right? I am using the paste that came with the i7-970 in the little packet.


If it's intake from the back, it may be picking up hot air from the graphics cards. Also, the TIM that comes with CPUs is typically cheap crap, or middle-of-the-road at best. I'd replace it with IC-Diamond or Shin Etsu.

Quote:



Question 2:
I hate having my h50 push hot air into the case, but many places I have read say that is best. I don;t have room to put a shroud on it, so two fans in push pull is the best I can do. Would 1 fan with a shroud do better than 2 fans push pull, would it give it more pressure?


With or without a shroud, 2-fan push-pull is going to be better than 1 fan.

Whether intake or exhaust is the best will depend on the case, and how your internal airflow works. Typically, the difference will be minimal for the CPU itself (2 or 3 degrees); but may affect the temps for the Mobo and graphics cards more significantly.


----------



## Hydraulic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *luchog*


I'd replace it with IC-Diamond or Shin Etsu.

With or without a shroud, 2-fan push-pull is going to be better than 1 fan.


Thanks + rep!

I will change it out with some mx-2 that I have left over. I know i have it somwhere, it is just a matter of finding it, lol.


----------



## Narokuu

h60 will be here thursday... i hate waiting =(


----------



## Blacked Out

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dustin88*


h60 will be here thursday... i hate waiting =(


You hate waiting, try having it sitting here (I'm looking at it right now) and not being able to use it until I get the rest of my parts ~Thursday.

Had a look inside. It looks great at least, probably even better with my two AP-15s.

Gotta update my System section. And think of a name


----------



## Squabbler

Quote:



Originally Posted by *0mar32*


What are the fans you're using ?


The orange fans on the top of the case are 140mm XIGMATEK's..

The H60 is setup (as exhaust) like so -- Case*|*Stock 650D 120mm Corsair Fan*|*H60*|*Stock H60 120mm Corsair Fan

Thinking I need to get two better 120mm fans for the H60 sandwich..


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dizbmikuni*


Unfortunately my needs really align more with an actual desktop. I want to be able to upgrade it in the future as well. I'm going to be taking a mini tower (probably a lian li v354) which should be okay but I'm having issues with the best cooler to use.

No one else has any experiences with it on an airplane?

Or barring that, is the h50 quick/easy to disassemble/reassemble on an intel 1155 (2500k) motherboard?


The H50 is reasonably quick to disconnect. Just leave the back plate and ring in place and when you've gotten to your destination apply TIM reconnect and you should be fine. Definitely have some ~8hr TIM on hand so you can do whatever you want when you boot up. Just make sure to clean the processor and cooling surface after disconnecting.

Should be fine in either cargo space, since I've heard that the liquid inside is EGlycol. Not sure. But you can always take it onboard if you can show that it is indeed sealed to your screener.









~Ceadder


----------



## BradleyW

I must say the H series is extremely easy to fit once the system is in place that holds the pump down.


----------



## draterrojam

K, so I bought an h60 a few weeks back. Love how it looks. I'm getting about 32c with it with the normal stock fan. Tried a push/pull with two xigmatek fans (same as the orange with white leds, but blue) and didn't get better temps. Bought a cooler master excalibur, got worse temps with that one by itself. Am I missing something here?

p.s. where the heck can you get gt ap15s anymore? Everywhere seems to be sold out and they seem to work the best.

Right now my ambient temp is 20c :-( 
Pump seems to be running fine. Was getting better cooling with my corsair a50 it seems. But then again it was a little cooler outside.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yate Loons are better fans for Radiator setups than GTs'. GTs' just push a lot of air. Save yourself some money and buy two Yate Loon fans for less than Half of what it costs for a single GT. I get mine from Performance-PCs'(Everyone else shoves blue LEDs down our throats) for ~$4 each when I choose not to have them sleeved. Shipping on them isn't much more for my Red LED fans. If you just get them standard Black you can get them for even cheaper when bought in bulk. $2 to $4 a fan is just fine with me. Just make sure to get the concave pitch bladed fans. Flat blades are noisier than hell.









~Ceadder


----------



## dizbmikuni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13873666*
> Yate Loons are better fans for Radiator setups than GTs'. GTs' just push a lot of air. Save yourself some money and buy two Yate Loon fans for less than Half of what it costs for a single GT. I get mine from Performance-PCs'(Everyone else shoves blue LEDs down our throats) for ~$4 each when I choose not to have them sleeved. Shipping on them isn't much more for my Red LED fans. If you just get them standard Black you can get them for even cheaper when bought in bulk. $2 to $4 a fan is just fine with me. Just make sure to get the concave pitch bladed fans. Flat blades are noisier than hell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


What model yate loons would you recommend for 120mm?

Also is the h50 or h60 easier to disassemble/reassemble?


----------



## lawrencendlw

It will be fine. People get them shipped next day air all the time the pressure will not affect it at all.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *draterrojam;13873586*
> K, so I bought an h60 a few weeks back. Love how it looks. I'm getting about 32c with it with the normal stock fan. Tried a push/pull with two xigmatek fans (same as the orange with white leds, but blue) and didn't get better temps. Bought a cooler master excalibur, got worse temps with that one by itself. Am I missing something here?
> 
> p.s. where the heck can you get gt ap15s anymore? Everywhere seems to be sold out and they seem to work the best.
> 
> Right now my ambient temp is 20c :-(
> Pump seems to be running fine. Was getting better cooling with my corsair a50 it seems. But then again it was a little cooler outside.


I read that the H60 fan has been designed specifically for that rad. That may be why it works so well as a single. The H60 rad is fairly thin, like the H50, so I would have though adding two of just about any type of fan would be an improvement (go figure).

Here is a good fan resource someone posted a few pages back (might help out with fan choices). Forgot I bookmarked it:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/859483-round-6-fan-testing-working-thread.html

Also looks like most fans draw considerable less power than the high speed Scythe PWM fans I'm using, but then again they are 110 CFM fans....


----------



## cravinmild

I posted this in another section but ill post it here also lol

Picked up a H70 to replace my V8 cooler. The V8 was fine for idle and mild messing around but temps would skyrocket when ocing.
I replaced stock fans with Ultra Kaze 133cfm 3000rpm. Works fine, not too loud.


_IGP9099 by cravinmild, on Flickr

here is my temps..on cooler days

IMG_0128 by cravinmild, on Flickr


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dizbmikuni;13875563*
> What model yate loons would you recommend for 120mm?
> 
> Also is the h50 or h60 easier to disassemble/reassemble?


Go with Medium Speeds. They're very good 3 quarters of the year and not too bad on the ears. If you want the best temp and have a fan controller go with High Speed Silents and dial them back on the cooler days.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## DrakeZ

hi i'm planning to buy H60 and fan for it

any recommendation for fan? is aerocool shark okay?

i don't mind with noise because i can still control it with fan controller


----------



## NitrousX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *draterrojam*


p.s. where the heck can you get gt ap15s anymore? Everywhere seems to be sold out and they seem to work the best.


Platinummicro has a bunch in stock. $25 shipped however due to limited supply. I bought mine from them about a year ago and they are still running great.

http://www.platinummicro.com/product...D1225C12B5AP15


----------



## rpgman1

Aquatuning has GT AP-15 fans for $14.61 each, but you get charged a % for customs fee and $10 if order is below $75. Also $6 or $8 flat fee for shipping.


----------



## moonmanas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DrakeZ*


hi i'm planning to buy H60 and fan for it

any recommendation for fan? is aerocool shark okay?


Aerocool sharks are fine on my H50







as are UV blue Yate loons


----------



## [email protected]

Well higher fans with rmp and cfm is more important than just fancy looking fans that push 30 cfm lol


----------



## moonmanas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


Well higher fans with rmp and cfm is more important than just fancy looking fans that push 30 cfm lol











Aerocool Shark. 1500 rpm, cfm 82.6, air pressure 1.273mm, 26.5 dba

120mm fans don't come much better than that


----------



## draterrojam

What do you guys think about these in a push/pull configuration?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233084


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonmanas;13883580*
> Aerocool Shark. 1500 rpm, cfm 82.6, air pressure 1.273mm, 26.5 dba
> 
> 120mm fans don't come much better than that


Akasa Viper. 600-1900 RPM (PWM control), 83.63 CFM, 2.98 mm/H2O, 6.9-28.9 dBA. And the black and yellow colour scheme kicks ass.


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *draterrojam;13884074*
> What do you guys think about these in a push/pull configuration?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233084


Pretty decent looking for the price point; although I suspect they're probably fairly noisy and would likely have a fairly short lifespan.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *draterrojam;13884074*
> What do you guys think about these in a push/pull configuration?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233084


Look at the picture of that fan and a picture of a 120mm Yate Loon. Hmmmmm







I wonder who makes that fan for Xigmatech.









At least the body at any rate. The internals could be Xigmatech manufacture but I doubt it. If you're gonna buy a Yate Loon you might as well buy a Yate Loon and save a little money.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild;13877530*
> I posted this in another section but ill post it here also lol
> 
> _IGP9099 by cravinmild, on Flickr


Sweet build there bud, but you need some serious cable management. It would really improve the look of a system you've obviously put a lot of work into.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrakeZ;13879638*
> hi i'm planning to buy H60 and fan for it
> 
> any recommendation for fan? is aerocool shark okay?
> 
> i don't mind with noise because i can still control it with fan controller


There's a list of fans on the first page of the thread, and here is a link to a fan review thread:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/859483-round-6-fan-testing-working-thread.html

Try and put a matched set on, don't just purchase one (or if you're using a fan controller, try to match the RPMs). Different fans move a different amount of air at the same RPM, so I would recommend a matched set.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpgman1;13882285*
> Aquatuning has GT AP-15 fans for $14.61 each, but you get charged a % for customs fee and $10 if order is below $75. Also $6 or $8 flat fee for shipping.


Do they charge you for looking so good too?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *draterrojam;13884074*
> What do you guys think about these in a push/pull configuration?


See above comment regarding fans.

We need to be able to place a comment at the top of every page in the thread with a link to the fan reviews and a comment mentioning that the first page has a great list of fans people here use. (like the Linkback, Thread Tools, Search and Rating buttons)

I swear 90% of the questions in this thread are the same questions: "what fans should I use, what do you think of these fans, should I add just one fan to my (H50,H60) or purchase a matched set". Obviously none of the people asking these questions have bothered to read the first page, which is normally where most threads put the answers to their frequently asked questions.

The people here do an awesome job answering these questions, but I see them answering the same questions over and over and over.

Mind if I rant? Lol, sorry.

Personally, when I join a new thread, I try my best to read the entire thread from the beginning. However, of course, this thread is a giant thread and no one is going to read it all (although I did when I joined, but there were a lot less pages at the time). People should always at least read the first few pages, and maybe read every 10th or 20th page or something so they get to know the thread a bit. You can answer a lot of your own questions this way.

For example, I bet I've posted the info about the first page three times this week alone, PWM twice, and the link to the fan review two or three times since the weekend. I love helping whenever I can, but saying the same thing over and over and over gets a little tiring. How does that King Crimson song go? "I repeat myself when under stress, I repeat myself when under stress, I repeat myself when under stress...."

That's it for my rant. Sorry, I know I tend to blather on...(again)....sorry...


----------



## Narokuu

ok, its all done.. white angel completed complete with the h60, been running prime for 2 hours now. and it wont get above 30c i know this is awesome, but its so hard to believe when my stock cooler ran 65c full load... i only have 1 fan on it atm because i need to get a few screwes from the local hardware. but after the push pull steup i should be ok. now, i am really wanting to overclock but im going to need a bit of help with this motherboard, its definatley not what im used to


----------



## eySON

count me in!


















this is my setup so far. i flipped the top fan to do an intake and set the h70 (2 ultra kazes) to exhaust. my idle now is at 26-28C and load is around 50C. when i had my h70 intake and my top exhaust my idle was 33-35C and load was almost 60C i think. i thought that was weird because usually having it intake would have lower temps







i'll leave it on for awhile and see what happens. so this setup shouldn't be that bad right? this is my first time using water cooling.


----------



## Narokuu

hey thats my CASE!!! are these not amaaazing cases???

give it time to cool, also, whats the temps in your room, and did u use the stock paste on it, i did and im idling at 28C


----------



## eySON

haha the best iv'e had for awhile!


----------



## Narokuu

i moved from an antec 902 its a nice case but this thing is HUGEEEEEEEEEEEE

i mean the enterprise could fit in this damed thing plus room for the buffet tables at the Trekkie Reunion... just saying


----------



## eySON

hahaha i know what you mean but the handles come in handy when i keep moving it around at work or at home. i came from an antec 1200 and that thing was a hassle! i had the 900 too before the 1200 (the first gen) cable management was so hard on that case haha


----------



## Narokuu

yeah it was


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yay! 600t SE's everywhere!! Just got mine yesterday...


----------



## XiZeL

so i have a h50 and im upgrading from 755 to 1155 where can i get the mounting kit for it?


----------



## lawrencendlw

It's the same mounting kit. You just use the holes for LGA 1156. They are identical.

Update: I got a update on my H100 order. Corsair pushed back the date again. This time they say that they'll ship on the 24th of this month. In case anyone was wondering.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## XiZeL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw*


It's the same mounting kit. You just use the holes for LGA 1156. They are identical.

Update: I got a update on my H100 order. Corsair pushed back the date again. This time they say that they'll ship on the 24th of this month. In case anyone was wondering.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


thanks u saved my life, just need to order tim with the rest


----------



## lawrencendlw

No problem. That's what we're here for. Just for future reference, The 1155 in LGA 1155 stands for 1155 pins in the CPU socket. Just like LGA 1366 has 1366 pins and so on. So done could assume that a 1155 and 1156 are so close that the same mounting hardware should fit. In this case, it does. Intel designed it to work with existing hardware.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw;13892967*
> It's the same mounting kit. You just use the holes for LGA 1156. They are identical.
> 
> Update: I got a update on my H100 order. Corsair pushed back the date again. This time they say that they'll ship on the 24th of this month. In case anyone was wondering.
> 
> Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
> Nathan


You bought directly from Corsair?


----------



## azianai

might sound silly and noobish, but what type of screws you guys use to mount push/pull?
I just got the H60 that im using until the H100 comes out.
I mounted 1 AP15 GT on the back of the radiator, but i wanna put AP15 as push on it as well.


----------



## PuffMaN

guess who has a H70 tomorrow


----------



## lawrencendlw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric;13894097*
> You bought directly from Corsair?


I bought from ftiComputer.com but its drop shipping directly from Corsair.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PuffMaN;13894396*
> guess who has a H70 tomorrow


No, I got it yesterday... I know, I know. I'm just joking. Grats. It's a great cooler.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azianai;13894211*
> might sound silly and noobish, but what type of screws you guys use to mount push/pull?
> I just got the H60 that im using until the H100 comes out.
> I mounted 1 AP15 GT on the back of the radiator, but i wanna put AP15 as push on it as well.


I'm in the same boat. Checked Amazon's page and a reviewer said this:
Quote:


> If you need extra screws:
> #6 machine thread, 32 TPI (threads per inch), 1.25 inches in length.


Anybody know if this is accurate?


----------



## DrakeZ

damn i can't get H60 on my town, it's out of stock everywhere









so i get H70 and really love it


----------



## claymanhb

So where's the h60 fanclub? It tried getting an h70 at frys but they were all open box. I got the h60 and love it. They had a bunch of them.


----------



## Squabbler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azianai;13894211*
> might sound silly and noobish, but what type of screws you guys use to mount push/pull?
> I just got the H60 that im using until the H100 comes out.
> I mounted 1 AP15 GT on the back of the radiator, but i wanna put AP15 as push on it as well.


Use 2 of the screws (top left - bottom right) for push fan and use the other 2 (top right - bottom left) for the pull fan.. at least that's what I got going on..


----------



## claymanhb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squabbler;13896320*
> Use 2 of the screws (top left - bottom right) for push fan and use the other 2 (top right - bottom left) for the pull fan.. at least that's what I got going on..


No rattles?


----------



## Squabbler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *claymanhb;13896495*
> No rattles?


Nope, no rattling here.

Basically I have it set up like so: Case|Fan1|H60|Fan2 as exhaust

I have Fan1 connected to the case by [top-right] and [bottom-left] with the normal fan screws. Then I use 2 of the H60 screws in [top-left] and [bottom-right] connected through the case and fan into the H60.

Then Fan2 is connected to the H60 with the 2 other screws that came with the H60 in the [top-left] and [bottom-right] as well -- which is the reverse of how Fan1 is mounted..

Hope this helps.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric;13895934*
> I'm in the same boat. Checked Amazon's page and a reviewer said this:
> 
> Anybody know if this is accurate?


Nope it's not accurate. Screws are 6-32 thread pitch. For a fan & 25mm shroud you need screws that are 2.25" in length and may need a washer on them depending on the fan body if the flanges are reinforced with the tube then no washer. If they are open bodied you will want a washer on the screws to allow for flex when tightening the fan to the Radiator. This helps protect the fins from puncture. There is no backstop for the screws.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## azianai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13896941*
> Nope it's not accurate. Screws are 6-32 thread pitch. For a fan & 25mm shroud you need screws that are 2.25" in length and may need a washer on them depending on the fan body if the flanges are reinforced with the tube then no washer. If they are open bodied you will want a washer on the screws to allow for flex when tightening the fan to the Radiator. This helps protect the fins from puncture. There is no backstop for the screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


So if i wanted to just mount another 120mm fan that's 25mm wide itself to the front, i should just use the 1.5" screw?

I get the feeling the stock screws aren't long enough to mount from my chassis, but it could be because of the rubber grommets on the screw holes with the 600T, i only have bout half a CM of "screw" after threading it through the fan to screw onto the radiator

All this is ofcourse just pending until the H100 comes


----------



## moonmanas

just put two of the screws opposite diagonally on one fan and two on the other, and if u are worried incase of or to prevent rattling put a bit of blutak between fan and rad where the screws are missing......job done .....ten minutes.....


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah but I don't feel like "rigging" it. I want to buy 4 more of the correct screws to mount the second fan...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric;13898430*
> Yeah but I don't feel like "rigging" it. I want to buy 4 more of the correct screws to mount the second fan...


Just take one of your screws and see if you can't get a match for it at your local hardware store. They should have a gauge handy to tell you how long it needs to be. The stock fan is 25mm thick. But I suggest getting a pair of fans and converting the stocker into a shroud. It keeps the unit quieter, and allows for more airflow coming off the push fan when mounted between Push and Radiator. Which allows for better temps. Can't say in your case it would be a sharp reduction in temps but it can't hurt.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## moonmanas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric;13898430*
> Yeah but I don't feel like "rigging" it. I want to buy 4 more of the correct screws to mount the second fan...


You need 6-32 x 1.25 inches, good luck finding them Fleabay usually have some...


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

My h70 pump speeds are about 400rpm lower than they should be according to ASUS AI suite. Any idea on how I can fix that?


----------



## moonmanas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gohan_Nightwing;13899949*
> My h70 pump speeds are about 400rpm lower than they should be according to ASUS AI suite. Any idea on how I can fix that?


What connector is it attached to? Seems like thatsthe problem, IF indeed it is a problem? My H50 keeps system at same temp exactly whether I have it at anything between 800 and 1400 rpm but I have added a res and more tubing so dont know if that accounts for it. I run it with a fan volt step down fan thing between the mobo pwr fan connector and pump it runs at 1000 rpm

If you havent any fan connectors left on mobo, stick the pump on a 3pin fan to molex connector


----------



## Gohan_Nightwing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *moonmanas*


What connector is it attached to? Seems like thatsthe problem, IF indeed it is a problem? My H50 keeps system at same temp exactly whether I have it at anything between 800 and 1400 rpm but I have added a res and more tubing so dont know if that accounts for it. I run it with a fan volt step down fan thing between the mobo pwr fan connector and pump it runs at 1000 rpm

If you havent any fan connectors left on mobo, stick the pump on a 3pin fan to molex connector


I got it running up to 1400rpms now







. What I did was use a left over molex/fan connector from the gt ap-15s I bought so instead of running it through the mobo alone, I got the PSU running it while monitoring its speed via the mobo.

However, like you I didn't get any temp improvements :/


----------



## lawrencendlw

OK I know that this question has been asked to death probably here but I'm gonna ask anyways because I NEED to know the answer tonight so I can get the item tomorrow. What size screws do I need to attach a 120mm X 120mm X 38mm fan with a 120mm X 120mm X 25mm shroud to a H70? I will make a really rough "mock" drawing in MS Paint and attach it so you can see exactly what I am asking for so that there is no question at all. Basically the questions that I need answers to is as follows:

1) What size do screws 1, 2, 3, and 4 need to be ( I think they need to be slightly longer by a fraction of a mm because of the thickness of the wall of the case but I might be wrong too)

2) What size washers do I need for screws 1, 2, 3, and 4?

3) What size do screws 5, 6, 7, and 8 need to be?

4) What size washers do I need for screws 5, 6, 7, and 8?

5) What would the screw and washer sizes be for all of the screws (basically answer the above questions but with the following parameter) if both the fans and the shrouds were the same size ( Fan 1=120mm x 120mm x 25mm, Shroud 1=120mm x 120mm x 25mm, Shroud 2=120mm x 120mm x 25mm, fan 2=120mm x 120mm x 25mm)? Please let me know if you need further clarification but if you still do with a diagram and 5 paraphrased questions then I don't know what to say lol.


----------



## tiramoko

hey guys, i wanna know if p/p scythe s-flex g is worth it for h50? 2 fans for 33$ also im checking the CM excalibur also but they its like a jet engine taking off..


----------



## rpgman1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tiramoko*


hey guys, i wanna know if p/p scythe s-flex g is worth it for h50? 2 fans for 33$ also im checking the CM excalibur also but they its like a jet engine taking off..


Too much to pay for S-Flex G fans and very noisy when it runs at max speed. Akasa Viper fans in push/pull will do just as well as GT AP-15 fans.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw*


OK I know that this question has been asked to death probably here but I'm gonna ask anyways because I NEED to know the answer tonight so I can get the item tomorrow. What size screws do I need to attach a 120mm X 120mm X 38mm fan with a 120mm X 120mm X 25mm shroud to a H70? I will make a really rough "mock" drawing in MS Paint and attach it so you can see exactly what I am asking for so that there is no question at all. Basically the questions that I need answers to is as follows:

1) What size do screws 1, 2, 3, and 4 need to be ( I think they need to be slightly longer by a fraction of a mm because of the thickness of the wall of the case but I might be wrong too)

2) What size washers do I need for screws 1, 2, 3, and 4?

3) What size do screws 5, 6, 7, and 8 need to be?

4) What size washers do I need for screws 5, 6, 7, and 8?

5) What would the screw and washer sizes be for all of the screws (basically answer the above questions but with the following parameter) if both the fans and the shrouds were the same size ( Fan 1=120mm x 120mm x 25mm, Shroud 1=120mm x 120mm x 25mm, Shroud 2=120mm x 120mm x 25mm, fan 2=120mm x 120mm x 25mm)? Please let me know if you need further clarification but if you still do with a diagram and 5 paraphrased questions then I don't know what to say lol.


Just get the smaller 6-32 washers they should be perfectly fine for what you're doing. I'm not sure of the actual size that comes with the unit but they aren't very big. Anything that fits 6-32 should be reasonable.









~Ceadder


----------



## tiramoko

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rpgman1*


Too much to pay for S-Flex G fans and very noisy when it runs at max speed. Akasa Viper fans in push/pull will do just as well as GT AP-15 fans.


I never heard of this fan before but if this fan will par with AP 15 then it must b a good fan. 2 fans cost 33$ with 9$ shipping. Wth


----------



## rpgman1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tiramoko*


I never heard of this fan before but if this fan will par with AP 15 then it must b a good fan. 2 fans cost 33$ with 9$ shipping. Wth










Almost the same sound profile as the GT AP-15 fans, but these fans have PWM.


----------



## Narokuu

just wanted to add a picture to make my entry to the club real =)

this is my sig build


----------



## tubers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dustin88;13903602*
> just wanted to add a picture to make my entry to the club real =)
> 
> this is my sig build


Noice!


----------



## Narokuu

thanks! just finished the build yesterday. newegg (as usuall) had my stuff to me in 2 days, and i live across the US, so once again im impressed. and i love building these things, i have built 7 computers for friends, and driven half way to Kentucky just to help friends with there builds, its like crack.... really.. i need help! lmao


----------



## s74r1

are there any tutorial pictures or videos for taking apart the H60/H70's pump? I just bought a H60 and I need to take the cover off to get at the nozzles better, right?

I saw some tutorials for the H50 but it's quite a bit different than the H60/H70's compact pump/block. this thread is a lot to sort through (1848 pages!)


----------



## moonmanas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1;13906208*
> are there any tutorial pictures or videos for taking apart the H60/H70's pump? I just bought a H60 and I need to take the cover off to get at the nozzles better, right?
> 
> I saw some tutorials for the H50 but it's quite a bit different than the H60/H70's compact pump/block. this thread is a lot to sort through (1848 pages!)


There's a vid on youtube for H70 i saw it the other day


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tiramoko;13903320*
> I never heard of this fan before but if this fan will par with AP 15 then it must b a good fan. 2 fans cost 33$ with 9$ shipping. Wth:headscrat


I'm using them, and IMO they're a bit better than the AP-15s (which I'm using as case fans).


----------



## euthyphro

Anyone know the life expectancy of the pumps in the H60? Also, I plugged the pump straight into a molar connector.... Is that a bad idea or should I plug it directly into a fan connector on the motherboard? In other words, will it burn out a lot faster if its running full blast?


----------



## Narokuu

pluf it into the CPU fan connection on your MoBo, this will give you the bets compatabiity. use another 3pin next, and a molex last imho


----------



## euthyphro

Actually, I meant to say that it is plugged into the three pin designated for the fan that goes to the PSU... I am thinking that this pin is on full blast seeing that my mobo has no controlls for it. Its an M4N98TD EVO Asus..... I dont want to plug it into the processor fan connector because that is reserved for a fan that will turn my house into a wind tunnel if its plugged into.... Welll.... its a long complicated story...


----------



## euthyphro

Do I need to register it online somewhere or something in order to redeem the warranty?


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *euthyphro;13914901*
> Actually, I meant to say that it is plugged into the three pin designated for the fan that goes to the PSU... I am thinking that this pin is on full blast seeing that my mobo has no controlls for it. Its an M4N98TD EVO Asus..... I dont want to plug it into the processor fan connector because that is reserved for a fan that will turn my house into a wind tunnel if its plugged into.... Welll.... its a long complicated story...


that's fine, albeit not being able to regulate the speed. there should be no harm in doing so as long as the voltage doesn't exceed 12v or 5v (whichever it uses, most use 12v I think) your other option would be to get a fan controller.


----------



## s74r1

I plan on modding my H60 w/ into a double rad with a T-junction instead of a reservorr, but fillports are kinda expensive. does anyone know where I can get just a simple plug to plug the end of the T after filling? or is there a way to fill it without a T-junction and make it a closed loop? (and can anyone recommend some good low-permeable tubing? It's hard to find good 1/4" tubing)

I'm trying to do this on the cheap since I don't have the money for a real W/C loop.


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1;13914994*
> I plan on modding my H60 w/ into a double rad with a T-junction instead of a reservorr, but fillports are kinda expensive. does anyone know where I can get just a simple plug to plug the end of the T after filling? or is there a way to fill it without a T-junction and make it a closed loop? (and can anyone recommend some good low-permeable tubing? It's hard to find good 1/4" tubing)
> 
> I'm trying to do this on the cheap since I don't have the money for a real W/C loop.


It's save alittle longer and get a XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-Rasa-750-RS240-CPU-watercooling-kit-pr-4753.html


----------



## videoman5

I cleaned all the dust out of my case, unclogged the dust caked radiator, reapplied AS5 to my CPU, remounted the waterblock with a steel backplate from my mobo and not the Corsair one, and used a socket wrench to tighten down the screws on the waterblock bracket. CPU temps before: 47C max, 29C idle; after: 34C max, 19C idle. Feels good man.


----------



## acavella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *videoman5;13915846*
> I cleaned all the dust out of my case, unclogged the dust caked radiator, reapplied AS5 to my CPU, remounted the waterblock with a steel backplate from my mobo and not the Corsair one, and used a socket wrench to tighten down the screws on the waterblock bracket. CPU temps before: 47C max, 29C idle; after: 34C max, 19C idle. Feels good man.


Excellent work, it is amazing what a little maintenance can do sometime. I need to clean my Rad soon as well.

Sent from my HTC Wildfire using Tapatalk


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *euthyphro;13914911*
> Do I need to register it online somewhere or something in order to redeem the warranty?


1)Register it at Corsair.com for the warranty.

2) Best place to plug the unit in is the PWR connection. CPU is PWM and you want your Pump running full speed. Plugging it into the PWM or other fan header(JiC of no PWR header) will allow your BIOS to adjust it to run full speed and your HWMonitor to read it and report its speed. This way you can keep an eye on it and know that it's running properly. Plugging directly into a PSU connection will only run it full speed and not give reports. If your PSU has a problem on that connection how would you know until it's too late?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw;13902139*
> OK I know that this question has been asked to death probably here but I'm gonna ask anyways because I NEED to know the answer tonight so I can get the item tomorrow. What size screws do I need to attach a 120mm X 120mm X 38mm fan with a 120mm X 120mm X 25mm shroud to a H70? I will make a really rough "mock" drawing in MS Paint and attach it so you can see exactly what I am asking for so that there is no question at all. Basically the questions that I need answers to is as follows:
> 
> 1) What size do screws 1, 2, 3, and 4 need to be ( I think they need to be slightly longer by a fraction of a mm because of the thickness of the wall of the case but I might be wrong too)
> 
> 2) What size washers do I need for screws 1, 2, 3, and 4?
> 
> 3) What size do screws 5, 6, 7, and 8 need to be?
> 
> 4) What size washers do I need for screws 5, 6, 7, and 8?
> 
> 5) What would the screw and washer sizes be for all of the screws (basically answer the above questions but with the following parameter) if both the fans and the shrouds were the same size ( Fan 1=120mm x 120mm x 25mm, Shroud 1=120mm x 120mm x 25mm, Shroud 2=120mm x 120mm x 25mm, fan 2=120mm x 120mm x 25mm)? Please let me know if you need further clarification but if you still do with a diagram and 5 paraphrased questions then I don't know what to say lol.


What i did to hook up my shrouds was: i got the shortest screws i could find, and attached the shroud to the radiator using the inner fan hole (the one that sits against the radiator) and attached the shroud to it, and the a grabbed those short fat screwa use to attach fans streight to the case, and attached the fan to the shroud. Just do the same for the other side and voila.

Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk


----------



## 9Thermal9

I just installed the H50. I connected the fan power connector (CPU) to the PWR fan on my Gigabyte GA790XT mother board and not the CPU_Fan connector. Instead, I connected the radiator fan in the CPU_Fan connector. The radiator fan had a three prong connector, which fit perfectly and the fan power connector had a four prong connector which fit into the PWR fan connector perfectly. Is this going to be a problem? My CPU is six degrees cooler after installation.


----------



## acavella

Quote:



Originally Posted by *9Thermal9*


I just installed the H50. I connected the fan power connector (CPU) to the PWR fan on my Gigabyte GA790XT mother board and not the CPU_Fan connector. Instead, I connected the radiator fan in the CPU_Fan connector. The radiator fan had a three prong connector, which fit perfectly and the fan power connector had a four prong connector which fit into the PWR fan connector perfectly. Is this going to be a problem? My CPU is six degrees cooler after installation.


I'm a bit confused...but I think I know what you are saying. You can basically plug these anywhere they fit. The only thing you need to be concerned with, is where or not the pump is running at full RPM. When you refer to the fan power connector, I assume you mean the pump (CPU end of the H50). Please correct me if I am wrong. Just double check in your BIOS that whichever connector your pump is connected to does not have any type of power saving/throttling enabled. The pump should always be running at full power/speed. To check this, your BIOS should be reporting it at approx. 1400 RPM.


----------



## Narokuu

it should be fine, not sure about older motherboards, but i think corsair mentions that plugging the pump into the CPU fan is better because it will control the speed with temperature. if its the other way around i think it wold run at full speed all the time, just a thought i may be wrong


----------



## 9Thermal9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *acavella*


I'm a bit confused...but I think I know what you are saying. You can basically plug these anywhere they fit. The only thing you need to be concerned with, is where or not the pump is running at full RPM. When you refer to the fan power connector, I assume you mean the pump (CPU end of the H50). Please correct me if I am wrong. Just double check in your BIOS that whichever connector your pump is connected to does not have any type of power saving/throttling enabled. The pump should always be running at full power/speed. To check this, your BIOS should be reporting it at approx. 1400 RPM.


Yes, that is correct....CPU end of the H50. I checked the Bio, the fan speed fluctuates between 1347 and 1400 RPM. I disabled Smart Fan, if that makes any difference.


----------



## acavella

Quote:



Originally Posted by *9Thermal9*


Yes, that is correct....CPU end of the H50. I checked the Bio, the fan speed fluctuates between 1347 and 1400 RPM. I disabled Smart Fan, if that makes any difference.


That is an acceptible fluctuation in speed. Yes, that makes perfect sense, keep it disabled. Sounds like you've got a good setup going with your h50.

Sent from my HTC Wildfire using Tapatalk


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *euthyphro*


Anyone know the life expectancy of the pumps in the H60? Also, I plugged the pump straight into a molar connector.... Is that a bad idea or should I plug it directly into a fan connector on the motherboard? In other words, will it burn out a lot faster if its running full blast?


If you plug it into the cpu header, make sure you go into BIOS and set the header to be on 100% all the time. The H60 has a five year warranty, so I would expect the pump to last quite a few years. Plugging it directly into the psu via a molex connector should be just fine. Using the PSU or Chassis FAN header is also fine as long as they run it at maximum speed. Having said that, some people actually turn the H50 pump down from 1400 RPM to 1000 RPM and say they notice no difference in cooling. I have no idea what the long term effect of this may be (if any).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicolasl46*


What i did to hook up my shrouds was: i got the shortest screws i could find, and attached the shroud to the radiator using the inner fan hole (the one that sits against the radiator) and attached the shroud to it, and the a grabbed those short fat screwa use to attach fans streight to the case, and attached the fan to the shroud. Just do the same for the other side and voila.


I agree. If you have a skinny enough screwdriver, you can put it through one fan screw hole to drive a screw in the hole behind it. I did the same thing with the case mod I'm doing with an older mini tower case.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dustin88*


it should be fine, not sure about older motherboards, but i think corsair mentions that plugging the pump into the CPU fan is better because it will control the speed with temperature. if its the other way around i think it wold run at full speed all the time, just a thought i may be wrong


Actually, it's exactly the opposite of what you put here. The pump should not be controlled and should be operating at 100% all the time. The fan can be temp controlled. Since the fan is a PWM fan, it should plug into the CPU 4 pin header and the pump into a 3 or four pin header or the power supply. Wherever you plug the pump in, make sire that BIOS runs it at 100% all the time.


----------



## Narokuu

ok so i have my h60 pump plugged into the mobob called CPU_OPT thats what it says on the board, there is also (next to the 4 pin CPU power connection) a 4 pin connectro called CPU_FAN. i also have other named fans obviously, so witch one is the correct one, so i need to change this asap


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dustin88*


ok so i have my h60 pump plugged into the mobob called CPU_OPT thats what it says on the board, there is also (next to the 4 pin CPU power connection) a 4 pin connectro called CPU_FAN. i also have other named fans obviously, so witch one is the correct one, so i need to change this asap


Neither one. Look for PWR. That is the correct header to connect to.









~Ceadder


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

The pump plugs into a "chassis_fan" connector and the radiator fans plug into the "cpu_fan" connector. Set your chassis fan in the bios to max...


----------



## Narokuu

i hooked it to a chassi fan pins, specifically chassi_fan3 and windows wouldnt boot, MoBo gave me a " cpu fan error and went straight to bios, i hooked it to the CPU_OPT plug and its running fine now... not sure why this is any thoughts?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dustin88*


i hooked it to a chassi fan pins, specifically chassi_fan3 and windows wouldnt boot, MoBo gave me a " cpu fan error and went straight to bios, i hooked it to the CPU_OPT plug and its running fine now... not sure why this is any thoughts?


Yeah, more than likely you didn't enable the Chassis Fan headers in BIOS, system got hot and freaked out.









~Ceadder


----------



## Narokuu

ahh, well then i shall go forth and change that. if im not back in 5 minutes... just keep waiting.


----------



## Narokuu

well, i fixed all of the bios problems but when i connect the pump to any chassi fan setup i get the CPU fan error. and when i plug it into CPU_OPT it boots perfectly and seems to run fine... this concerns me, and i would like to get it fixed, but i'm at a brick wall


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicolasl46;13922728*
> ^what the heck, is this even allowed here?


To what are you referring? Gees, missed something didn't I?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dustin88;13923616*
> well, i fixed all of the bios problems but when i connect the pump to any chassi fan setup i get the CPU fan error. and when i plug it into CPU_OPT it boots perfectly and seems to run fine... this concerns me, and i would like to get it fixed, but i'm at a brick wall


The fan should be plugged into your 4 pin CPU FAN header.

CPU_OPT is fine for the pump *IF* you make sure it's set to run 100% all the time in the BIOS. You will also have to make sure that, if you have a power outage or reset you BIOS for any reason, you set it back to 100%. You don't want it to regulate the pump, just run it at 100%.

The reason you are getting a CPU fan error when you don't use the CPU_OPT header is because you don't tell tell the BIOS that you don't have a fan plugged into that header, or turn the header off, or ignore that header. Naturally, if there's no fan plugged into it, it will complain.


----------



## Narokuu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;13923781*
> To what are you referring?


there was a spammer, that was swiftly dealt with


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dustin88;13923846*
> there was a spammer, that was swiftly dealt with


Yup yup. I booted that sucker BANG! ZOOM! POWWW! clear to the moon Alice.


















~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Narokuu

nothing like using an old T.V. series sporting spousal abuse to use in an analogy for describing a spammer.. lmao


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah but Ralph never hit Alice. She was a firebrand. You don't mess with them. They'll kill ya in your sleep with a smile on their face when doing it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Narokuu

haha!


----------



## Prugor

My plans are as follows.

Acquire H100. Purchase 4x TK-123 fans from Feser. A fan filter. And place this in the bay area of my TJ07. Yes. It will be done.


----------



## s74r1

So, whats the consensus on the pump speed? does throttling it damage it? I keep seeing posts suggesting to run it ONLY 100%. I had my H50 throttled almost all the time 800-1000 rpm unless temps were >70c,. (that thing was loud as hell though) Is the H60 any different?

Also, any tips on making a custom closed loop? Does anyone know what type of tubing Asetek uses for the Antec Kuhler? I'm not quite sure how to seal it when I'm done without spilling fluid.


----------



## Narokuu

im debating that now.. it only works in 1 plugin on my mobo, and i refuse to use a 3 pin to molex, its working fine and quiet. i cant even tell its on, and my temps are great

im having a few hardware issues atm... trying to fix it all


----------



## acavella

Regarding throttling the H50/H60 etc... pump back, I am not sure any of us can give you a good answer. If it works for you, then sure why not go with it. However, I'm not sure any of us can say with all certainty that this will/will not damage the pump in the long term. The good thing about slowing the pump, it can cause the water to work slightly more efficiently. As the water cycles slower, it gets more time to absorb the heat from the CPU block. However, too slow and now you just get hot water sitting around on the block.


----------



## Mergatroid

Here's my little mini tower guest computer with the H50 installed. I just need to get the side panels painted. The H50 seems to be cooling fine but I'm getting the dreaded rattling noise from the pump. I am going to reorient it tomorrow and see if that solves the problem, if not I guess it's RMA time:




























Turned out not too shabby.


----------



## Narokuu

nice, looks good


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;13925726*
> The H50 seems to be cooling fine but I'm getting the dreaded rattling noise from the pump. I am going to reorient it tomorrow and see if that solves the problem, if not I guess it's RMA time:


I had mine rattling on and off for a few days and it's best to "flick" the tubes while it's running and if nothing else works, remove the rad from wherever it's attached and shake it up a bit. Since then, mine has never made any rattling noise.


----------



## Prugor

If you take it all out, rattle the pump around and keep it lower than the radiator. Install with the pump lower than the radiator. The whine is normal. Mine whined for about a month... and then it eventually evened its self out.


----------



## ManOnFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1;13924793*
> So, whats the consensus on the pump speed? does throttling it damage it? I keep seeing posts suggesting to run it ONLY 100%. I had my H50 throttled almost all the time 800-1000 rpm unless temps were >70c,. (that thing was loud as hell though) Is the H60 any different?
> 
> Also, any tips on making a custom closed loop? Does anyone know what type of tubing Asetek uses for the Antec Kuhler? I'm not quite sure how to seal it when I'm done without spilling fluid.


The 100% is just corsairs view. I've had my H70 for 8-9 months and a H50 before that. I ran them both at between 800-1000rpm to rid myself of the whine and humm. Efficiency and temps were unchanged...


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin;13926198*
> I had mine rattling on and off for a few days and it's best to "flick" the tubes while it's running and if nothing else works, remove the rad from wherever it's attached and shake it up a bit. Since then, mine has never made any rattling noise.


I'll give that a try. Unfortunately is means disassembling the front case but might as well give it a go and see what happens.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prugor;13926530*
> If you take it all out, rattle the pump around and keep it lower than the radiator. Install with the pump lower than the radiator. The whine is normal. Mine whined for about a month... and then it eventually evened its self out.


Unfortunately, because of the design of the case, I can't place the pump lower than the rad. It's actually not whining, but making a high speed rattling noise. When I first heard it I thought a fan was touching a mesh, when I got closer it almost sounded like electrical arcing.

The best I can do is turn the rad so the tubes are on the bottom. Ceadderman had mentioned I may have to turn the rad. I was hoping that, since Redbeard at Corsair had made his H70 build with the rad hoses at the top (along with others) that I would get away with it too. Of course I also have the rad lower than the pump. I may have to add another shroud at the front to give me a little more slack so I can turn the rad.

It kills me that I was actually looking for an H60 at the time but all I could find was this H50, and now the store I bought it from has the H60 in stock. I hope I can correct it without having to send it away.

I'll shake it all up tonight and see what happens, then I'll reorient the pump if I have to.


----------



## Xristo

hello , been a while since i posted in here .. Just thought id throw up a cinebench run i did this morning ..

Using 2 x 1500rpm fans in push pull , moved the radiator upfront of my antec 1200 like this one here ..










Heres where my temps are at ...


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey Merg, where are your pipes exiting the H70? 3, 6, 9, 12 o'clock orientation? If they are at 6 or 12, try rotating the block to 3 or 9 whichever is easier to turn without putting stress on the pipes. I've heard(here in this thread) that the H70 likes either and not the 6 or 12 o'clock positions.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mergatroid

@Xristo

I'm happy you posted. Nice to see another system using the H50 with the rad mounted lower than the pump. Getting any noise from the pump?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13931247*
> Hey Merg, where are your pipes exiting the H70? 3, 6, 9, 12 o'clock orientation? If they are at 6 or 12, try rotating the block to 3 or 9 whichever is easier to turn without putting stress on the pipes. I've heard(here in this thread) that the H70 likes either and not the 6 or 12 o'clock positions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


The problem is with my H50 actually (in the spare computer I just moded).

Here is a pic of how it's installed:










With the pump right side up and the rad with the hoses at the top.
I have been running the computer today and it seems a little quieter than it was yesterday. You can only hear it if you put your head down at case level.

I think I'll run it for a week and see how it goes. I think I could rotate the pump to 3'o'clock without any problems. I'll give that a try if the noise continues.


----------



## Xristo

nope no noise at all , runs beautiful i couldn't be happier !! that wasnt my setup though , heres a few pics of mine ..

I had to mount my rad sideways , its not screwed down or anything though it actually slots in there very firm ..



this is the front of my 1200 , you can see the fins behind the fan about 10cm away so it makes a little wind tunnel to the rad .. like a big shroud .. took out the filter for max air flow and the tricool is set on full speed .



and here is my man cave ... I also have a 42" Lcd hdtv just to the left of the chair i can play games on too when im bored of eyefinity =) as you can see i <3 my pc lol i like things neat and tidy ... though i wanna move that amp and sub so i can sit at my desk properly .


----------



## Narokuu

any thoughts on mounting the h60 in the top of the corsair 600t? i was hoping if i got a really nice 120mm fan and used it in the top of the case it would have its own exhaust or intake, and get cooler temps... just a thought before i go trying it lol


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dustin88;13931469*
> any thoughts on mounting the h60 in the top of the corsair 600t? i was hoping if i got a really nice 120mm fan and used it in the top of the case it would have its own exhaust or intake, and get cooler temps... just a thought before i go trying it lol












you could do something like this , though with 1 fan obviously ..










not a 600t but similar .. you will just have to take out the top exhaust . i reckon leave it like the first pic .


----------



## Narokuu

nice, thanks


----------



## elektrohora

Hi, I am going to modify my h60 and wanted to ask if someone knows which tube goes "to" the block/pump and which goes "from" block/pump or which should go to a reservoir and which to the rad. Thanks


----------



## lawrencendlw

I got my H70 all hooked up with 2 Delta fans @ 150 CFM each in push pull using 2 shrouds. Believe me when I say my god that things huge. Surprising enough though, its really not that loud. I have my i7-930 @ 4:2 GHz (In a really crappy case mind you) and my max temps after several hours of prime were in the low 60's. It's really not that bad noise wise either. The noise is more from rushing air than from any kind of noise from the fan itself. I'm gonna get some AP-31's and run those on my H100 since it has a little bit more static pressure than the delta's do.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dustin88;13931469*
> any thoughts on mounting the h60 in the top of the corsair 600t? i was hoping if i got a really nice 120mm fan and used it in the top of the case it would have its own exhaust or intake, and get cooler temps... just a thought before i go trying it lol


You betcha. My main case is a 600T, and I have an H70 mounted in the top. It was not a "plug and play" mounting. The memory on my mobo got in the way of the bottom fan so I had to mod the case a little to move the H70 enough to avoid the RAM. However, the H50 is smaller. You may be able to fit it with push/pull without modding the case.

Here's a pic of the H70 mounted at the top of the 600T:










And here's a pic of how I had to offset the entire assembly by about an inch to avoid my memory:










Ignore the fan orientation. I was using it as intake, but I have since changed it to exhaust.


----------



## Narokuu

i have the h60, this looks neat, ill check it out later on.. im still waiting to get more screws from my local hardware, as corsair has messed up and they need to send enough screws to make this a push pull setup lololol


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I gotta go to the hardware store for four more screws on my H60 as well. I know its been answered before but what size screws do I need? Thanks?


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric;13937346*
> I gotta go to the hardware store for four more screws on my H60 as well. I know its been answered before but what size screws do I need? Thanks?


6-32 by 1 1/4.


----------



## Shneakypete

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric;13937346*
> I gotta go to the hardware store for four more screws on my H60 as well. I know its been answered before but what size screws do I need? Thanks?


I had to get 2" 6/32's for the fan + 38mm shroud... Any extra space I just put several nuts on... My home depot only had 1" and 2" 6/32's that's y there's extra


----------



## ManOnFire

Similar to mine^^^^ but i cheated and used insulation tape


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Thanks guys!


----------



## moonmanas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elektrohora;13931831*
> Hi, I am going to modify my h60 and wanted to ask if someone knows which tube goes "to" the block/pump and which goes "from" block/pump or which should go to a reservoir and which to the rad. Thanks


I'd imagine the flow would be the same as through H50, whatever, you want Pump to> Rad to> Res to Pump. That gives cooler water going from rad to res, then to pump to res lol. That way you are not passing boiling water around your case to the res. See my H50 Pic

Also do a dummy run like I did here to test flow (tubes are wrong there for my res) but hope that helps









[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltfwBH5EhCQ[/ame]


----------



## BradleyW

I've heard bad stories about using die. However it looks very good indeed.


----------



## scaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;13931312*


Where did you get that chair?


----------



## acavella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;13932117*
> You betcha. My main case is a 600T, and I have an H70 mounted in the top. It was not a "plug and play" mounting. The memory on my mobo got in the way of the bottom fan so I had to mod the case a little to move the H70 enough to avoid the RAM. However, the H50 is smaller. You may be able to fit it with push/pull without modding the case.
> 
> Here's a pic of the H70 mounted at the top of the 600T:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's a pic of how I had to offset the entire assembly by about an inch to avoid my memory:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ignore the fan orientation. I was using it as intake, but I have since changed it to exhaust.


I have just changed my H50 rad to the top of the my 600T. I can confirm for the H50, you will need to offset the rad, like Mergatroid did, as well (if you plan on a push/pull config).

With my new setup, I have gotten away from the push/pull config. With my current setup and airflow I am noticing zero benefit with the push/pull. It almost seemed as if the push/pull was restricting airflow through the rad. I am sure that with a fan shroud this would not be the case. However, I have no plans to build a gigantic monstrosity of shrouds/fans etc... I'm trying to bring the system back to the basics and it seems to be working. Current temps: Ambient Temp: 20C // CPU Idle: 26C // CPU Load (45min Prime95): 46C


----------



## lawrencendlw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scaz;13940155*
> Where did you get that chair?


Forget the chair, I love the background you have on your computer lol... Ok the chair is nice too.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## ndoggfromhell

I'm guessing this is the first Hackintosh with an H50 in it.


upload gif

Ignore the cable mess, just upgraded the motherboard in my budget OSX box and I'm still making sure all is good before I do a good tidy of wires.


----------



## acavella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ndoggfromhell;13941378*
> I'm guessing this is the first Hackintosh with an H50 in it.


First one I've seen here. Love to see it when it's cleaned up.


----------



## Narokuu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ndoggfromhell;13941378*
> I'm guessing this is the first Hackintosh with an H50 in it.
> 
> 
> upload gif
> 
> Ignore the cable mess, just upgraded the motherboard in my budget OSX box and I'm still making sure all is good before I do a good tidy of wires.


nice job, it will look great, by the way, i used to live in greensburg pa, lived there for a year before moving for another job lmao!


----------



## aicha

where should I plug H70 pump connector ? the two fans r connected to CPU fan con. and the pump is at power fan con. at the moment , can I leave it there or not ? thanks


----------



## Narokuu

plug the pump into any plug that says CHAS_FAN or something like this. you want it to be fully on, not going up or down by the temps. this is what i have been told


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aicha;13943105*
> where should I plug H70 pump connector ? the two fans r connected to CPU fan con. and the pump is at power fan con. at the moment , can I leave it there or not ? thanks


The fans can be connected to any, though if you have multiple fans throughout your case, I suggest connecting the push/pull fans with a Y-adapter and putting them on your board's 4-pin CPU Fan header. The pump can be connected to any of the 3/4-pin fan headers as long as it's running 100%.


----------



## Ceadderman

I might have to forgo the Water Cooling for that chair. Man that looks comfy. I sit in a camp chair with a big pillow and a small couch pillow under my bum for padding.







lol

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## elektrohora

Yes moonmanas that was very helpul, thank you


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw;13940222*
> Forget the chair, I love the background you have on your computer lol... Ok the chair is nice too.
> 
> Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
> Nathan


thanks guys , the chair was purchased from "office works" here in australia for around $130 ..

Theres probably a ton of them on ebay , or just go to a place that sells office furniture .

this is it ..
http://www.officeworks.com.au/retail/products/Furniture/Chairs/Fabric-Chairs/OWRACER


----------



## Jerry60k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aicha;13943105*
> where should I plug H70 pump connector ? the two fans r connected to CPU fan con. and the pump is at power fan con. at the moment , can I leave it there or not ? thanks


I connected my H70 to a Chas Fan header and my Folding temps were hitting 90 c . So I looked into it and you should use a y adapter and connect the pump directly to 1 of the 4 pin connecters from the psu.

I did this and dropped from 90 Celsius to 68.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jerry60k;13949101*
> I connected my H70 to a Chas Fan header and my Folding temps were hitting 90 c . So I looked into it and you should use a y adapter and connect the pump directly to 1 of the 4 pin connecters from the psu.
> 
> I did this and dropped from 90 Celsius to 68.


You most likely had your Chas Fan header running at automatic speeds, instead of full speed. Thus causing the high folding temps.

The y adapter is just to run two fans off the same header (CPU fan header).


----------



## aicha

:thumb:Thanks everyone !!!!!!!!!







finally finished , it's all in and working







lets join the CLUB


----------



## rjajmr0221

crap pic i know, but can i join?










Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Xristo




----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aicha;13954331*
> :thumb:Thanks everyone !!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> finally finished , it's all in and working
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lets join the CLUB


Wow, that looks great. Good job, nice cable management.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rjajmr0221;13968733*
> crap pic i know, but can i join?


Wow, I love the huge amount of room between the top of your case and the top of your mobo. That would be great for a push/pull rad. Nice case.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rjajmr0221;13968733*
> crap pic i know, but can i join?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Mount your P/P setup in the top under the I/O panel. You have plenty of room for it. That's where mine was mounted.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## rjajmr0221

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;13969736*
> Wow, I love the huge amount of room between the top of your case and the top of your mobo. That would be great for a push/pull rad. Nice case.


thanks,its a haf 932 and actually i am putting in some research for a full blown loop. so a rad/fan combo may be going there soon...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13969831*
> Mount your P/P setup in the top under the I/O panel. You have plenty of room for it. That's where mine was mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:










like?


Uploaded with ImageShack.us
it was actually about 4C warmer on average in this location. i am currently waiting for 2 new fans to show up(any day) for a push/pull setup. i will try it again in both locations after the switch, and go with whatever yeilds the best results.


----------



## Ceadderman

Sort of.

But more like this...



















...that way you can keep your 230mm in place and Exhaust out the top as well. It was a tight fit between the top and the 3rd 5.25 bay though. You have to wiggle the ODD to get it in there w/o scratching it up.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## rjajmr0221

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13970010*
> Sort of.
> 
> But more like this...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...that way you can keep your 230mm in place and Exhaust out the top as well. It was a tight fit between the top and the 3rd 5.25 bay though. You have to wiggle the ODD to get it in there w/o scratching it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


ahhh i see. +1 for the idea and the dope looking rig. i was actually going to paint mine almost exactly the same, but i was going to do the inside of the other side panel red....


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice. Don't know if it's there but the interior of mine other than plastic is all Black. I used Satin Black after scuffing up the interior lightly. Powder Coating makes an excellent primer.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## nootron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acavella;13940185*
> Current temps: Ambient Temp: 20C // CPU Idle: 26C // CPU Load (45min Prime95): 46C


46c @ 45 minutes Prime95? Which tests are you running? Are you overclocking at all? Those temps just seem insanely low for a prime95 torture test.

Im pretty new to this stuff, so dont misinterpret my questions as doubt. I just want to make sure im doing the right things to my own rig.

cheers

Oh, and can i has membership??


----------



## Icekilla

I don't know if this should go here but...

The Corsair H100 is already being listed at the Corsair's site, for $120USD and, according to their site, it will be available this month.


----------



## acavella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nootron;13970928*
> 46c @ 45 minutes Prime95? Which tests are you running? Are you overclocking at all? Those temps just seem insanely low for a prime95 torture test.
> 
> Im pretty new to this stuff, so dont misinterpret my questions as doubt. I just want to make sure im doing the right things to my own rig.
> 
> cheers
> 
> Oh, and can i has membership??


For that test I was running at stock speeds. Also, my ambient temp/room temp is pretty low. I keep my AC pretty much cranked at all times. This truley is the biggest help in cooling my pc.

Edit: I was running the small fft test, as this stresses the CPU more than any other components.

Sent from my HTC Wildfire using Tapatalk


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Icekilla;13979583*
> I don't know if this should go here but...
> 
> The Corsair H100 is already being listed at the Corsair's site, for $120USD and, according to their site, it will be available this month.


Yup, you're in the right place. This is the Hydro Series thread.









I'd hold off getting it til it's available outside of Manufacturer website though. I know a few people have already pre-ordered it. But I think that the price will drop some once it's readily available.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13980096*
> Yup, you're in the right place. This is the Hydro Series thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd hold off getting it til it's available outside of Manufacturer website though. I know a few people have already pre-ordered it. But I think that the price will drop some once it's readily available.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Agreed. Memory Express in Canada has it listed on their site at $109.99.

I tried reorienting my H50 in my guest case so the the pump hoses are at 3'o'clock but I think the noise is even worse now. I took the case out and tried running it on its back, upside down and on its front so I could tell if there was any difference when the rad was above the pump or below it. It makes the noise no matter what I do. Sometimes it's fairly loud and sometimes it quiets down a bit.

Unfortunately I think I'm going to have to RMA it. I am just kicking myself for not waiting for an H60 to be in stock.


----------



## ManOnFire

I've pre-ordered my H100 from amazon FYI...£79.98 on there...£90 on scan.co.uk and others


----------



## Ceadderman

Yikes!







That sucks Merg. At least Corsair has a really good track record in the RMA department with their Hydro Series coolers. They don't mess around.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## rjajmr0221

sorry for no pics(wife took camera to work) but a brief update, fans came in today and just got them installed.







what a difference. so far it is averaging a 10c drop while cpu folding(about 20 min as of this post). a little noisy at first but with a custom silent profile they are no louder than the rest of the system








any ways i picked up 2 of these http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103083 in push/pull exhaust


----------



## Arizonian

I'm currently running air cooling CoolerMaster V6GT CPU cooler.

I was thinking of possibly changing to a Corsair H70. Is it an easy set up for a noob? What kind of maintenance is there involved for CPU water cooling. What are the risks and most common errors involved? Would I see cooler CPU temps? Any links to thse answers would be great.


----------



## Ceadderman

It's easy to setup.

You might have to do some work to get the best temps out of it. I lapped my CPU and the block on my H50 and hacked out the hub(homemade shroud) from the stock fan and saw around a 15-20c drop in temps on my 955BE. But this also depends on Ambient temps where you live. If you're in a warm climate I don't think you'll see that big a drop in temps and you're also running an i7 which typical reports 10c hotter than my CPU did.

However I do believe that you would see better temps off the H70 compared to the H50 because the Radiator is thicker and comes with two fans stock. They're reasonable but changing out the fans to fans with better static pressure will give you better results. Fans like Yate-Loon High Speed Silents controlled by Fan Controller to lower the dB of the unit will also help dial in the best speed for your temp needs.

It really isn't an easy answer, but I know that the Hydro Series coolers can be just as effective as running the more expensive D14 and Megahelm. Failure rate is also fairly low. And Corsair is very good about their customer service should you have an issue that needs to be taken care of.

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Arizonian

I live in Arizona, my house however is kept at 76F all year around. The tower is close to a central air conditioning vent and on top of my desk. Mostly to gaze into but it's also for cooler ambient temps inside which I've not taken any readings from as of yet.

I didn't know if there would be a big difference or not between my the current CM V6GT and the Corsair H70. I currently have temps of about 40 /34 / 37 /35 as of this post on all four cores.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian;13986454*
> I live in Arizona, my house however is kept at 76F all year around. The tower is close to a central air conditioning vent and on top of my desk. Mostly to gaze into but it's also for cooler ambient temps inside which I've not taken any readings from as of yet.
> 
> I didn't know if there would be a big difference or not between my the current CM V6GT and the Corsair H70. I currently have temps of about 40 /34 / 37 /35 as of this post on all four cores.


You'd have to compare load temps to really see the difference. Most coolers don't have a problem with near idle temps.


----------



## moonmanas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13986374*
> It's easy to setup.
> 
> You might have to do some work to get the best temps out of it. I lapped my CPU and the block on my H50 and hacked out the hub(homemade shroud) from the stock fan and saw around a 15-20c drop in temps on my 955BE. But this also depends on Ambient temps where you live. If you're in a warm climate I don't think you'll see that big a drop in temps and you're also running an i7 which typical reports 10c hotter than my CPU did.
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


A 15-20c drop in temps in Hell is some recommendation


----------



## Shogon

Sign me up! Just installed with 2 Ultra Kaze fans and it did actually beat my Megahalem by 1-3C. Could be the TIM needed to be changed though lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonmanas;13988558*
> A 15-20c drop in temps in Hell is some recommendation










Idn't it though.









I've got my Block on the way, and am waiting for the cheap stuff to be shipped and shipping to be quoted to me and I'll have a reasonably cheap and effective 120 kit to tide me over 'til I can sell some more stuff and get my 360. So I'm even further along than I thought I would be not even a month after parting with the H50.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Lindyrig

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103060

I have 2 of these Sickleflows laying around. Would these do me good on an H50 w/ Push/Pull exhaust setup?

Looking to go 4-4.2Ghz on my 970 BE Phenom II


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lindyrig;13992228*
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103060
> 
> I have 2 of these Sickleflows laying around. Would these do me good on an H50 w/ Push/Pull exhaust setup?
> 
> Looking to go 4-4.2Ghz on my 970 BE Phenom II


Can't hurt to try them. I've heard they're pretty decent fans but I don't know what their static pressure is like. I do know that Yate Loons are cheap and have great static pressure. So if you aren't satisfied with the temps and the R4s' are a little too noisy, you could always nab a pair of Yates.

So give em a shot. You can also look in the OP of this thread and it will give you information on the fans you're contemplating as well.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Lindyrig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13992345*
> Can't hurt to try them. I've heard they're pretty decent fans but I don't know what their static pressure is like. I do know that Yate Loons are cheap and have great static pressure. So if you aren't satisfied with the temps and the R4s' are a little too noisy, you could always nab a pair of Yates.
> 
> So give em a shot. You can also look in the OP of this thread and it will give you information on the fans you're contemplating as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Great! Thanks. Yea I have a pair of yates aswell that I picked up off amazon. But it appears they are the lowest of the CMF rating in the 120 class.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lindyrig;13992428*
> Great! Thanks. Yea I have a pair of yates aswell that I picked up off amazon. But it appears they are the lowest of the CMF rating in the 120 class.


That's what makes them good though. High CFM makes for a great case fan. Not so much a Radiator fan where you have between 20 and 40 fans per inch. The ones you have are the Low Speed Silents(I'm assuming) so depending on your Ambient temp you _*might*_ try those max'ed out and see where it puts you. If you don't like the temps change to the R4s'.

And if you think the R4s' are too loud skip the High Speed Silents and go right for the Mediums. Those are really solid through 3/4 of the year. Then for the summer just invest in a good fan controller(something like a RheoSmart 3/6 channel[30w per]) and use those to dial back the noise except when you're gaming.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Lindyrig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;13992638*
> That's what makes them good though. High CFM makes for a great case fan. Not so much a Radiator fan where you have between 20 and 40 fans per inch. The ones you have are the Low Speed Silents(I'm assuming) so depending on your Ambient temp you _*might*_ try those max'ed out and see where it puts you. If you don't like the temps change to the R4s'.
> 
> And if you think the R4s' are too loud skip the High Speed Silents and go right for the Mediums. Those are really solid through 3/4 of the year. Then for the summer just invest in a good fan controller(something like a RheoSmart 3/6 channel[30w per]) and use those to dial back the noise except when you're gaming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Awesome man you are a great help! +1 for you:thumb:


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Got my h60 installed the other day and thought i'd go ahead and officially join the club. I'm running two gelid silent 12 pwm fans in push/pull with it exhausting out if the case. Here are the pics!


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Killhouse

Love the build Majin, nice white theme


----------



## Kokin

I like the white theme as well. Nice to see something different from black/blue and black/red themes that most of us have.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nothing wrong with the White them but white will show the dirt so much clearer than a Black system. It's why I stay with Black.









Got my Block today. Fail.









The lady filling the order grabbed the wrong block. Was sposed to be EK Roundtop HF Classified Block. $60

She grabbed Squaretop. $80

$20 employee mistake. Not that I'm complaining at getting a more expensive item. But I paid for the one on sale cause it was the round top Classified model. Comes with MX-2 TIM, the Squaretop Comes with MX-4 and the EK doesn't mound on horizontal plane(AM3 plate) it mounts on the vertical plane.









It would _might_ have turned out better if the price was on the invoice and the Title of the links were different.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## DeadShot_1.0

what do you suggest for fans in the h70 a high cfm fan or fans that have good static pressure?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DeadShot_1.0*


what do you suggest for fans in the h70 a high cfm fan or fans that have good static pressure?


Good Static Pressure fans are the best fans. Check out the list of fans in OP to find a reasonable fan with good SP.









~Ceadder


----------



## DeadShot_1.0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Good Static Pressure fans are the best fans. Check out the list of fans in OP to find a reasonable fan with good SP.









~Ceadder










i was just doing that







next month il be getting an h70 so im just preparing for it.

what do you think about the cm sickleflow


----------



## Ceadderman

I've heard they're quieter due to the vented housing. Other than that I don't know since I've never run them. I don't know what their SP would be like.









~Ceadder


----------



## DeadShot_1.0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I've heard they're quieter due to the vented housing. Other than that I don't know since I've never run them. I don't know what their SP would be like.









~Ceadder










i think there about 2.9 but i will probably go with the cm blade master


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DeadShot_1.0*


i think there about 2.9 but i will probably go with the cm blade master


I just bought some scythe AP-29s and apparently they are rated at 5.08 for SP. Even at 3,000rpm they didn't sound too bad in the case.


----------



## DeadShot_1.0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*


I just bought some scythe AP-29s and apparently they are rated at 5.08 for SP. Even at 3,000rpm they didn't sound too bad in the case.


i will check them


----------



## Narokuu

if the h 100 is as good as it claims.. i may get it... and use my h60 for my second rig.... hmmm more money for you corsair... touche.... touche...


----------



## rafety58

count me in the club


----------



## rjajmr0221

so here's the new fans installed. p/p exhaust. i have been folding for the last 2 days non-stop and my temp has been a dead flat 52C. this is an improvement of 12C compared to the single stock fan. a little loud at first but with a custom silent fan profile they become quiet enough for me.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

these are the fans http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103083


----------



## lawrencendlw

You might even be able to get a few more degrees better if you put a couple of shrouds in there. You can either make them by cutting the inside out of a couple of fans or you can buy some clear acrylic ones from dangerden.com. they come with LED's in either red, blue or green. Personally, I made some from some cheap fans but I'm thinking about buying a couple for the extra flair and lighting. They look really cool and they do make a difference because if you think about it, the spot on your radiator that the fan sits up against it doesn't get any airflow because the middle of the fan blocks it. So essentially it creates a dead spot on the radiator. Sure it makes your radiator/fan setup freakishly huge (especially if your using 38mm thick fans like I am) but its worth the extra cooling. Let me know if you need some help with it because I bought everything to make them perfect ( mini hack saw, file set, and varying degrees of super high grit sand paper) so that the inside of my shrouds are completely smooth. I don't know if it makes that much of a difference but I do know that it can't hurt to make sure that its smooth. I figure that if its not that any rough edges could potentially cause turbulence. This offer goes to any of you that would like me to make them some shrouds. Just send me a couple fans and ill and you a couple shrouds. I'll even leave the LED's wired up (I you send me led fans)so that you can make your own led shroud if you want. Just putting that out there to try and help out my fellow club members.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## Ceadderman

Meh...







You can get shrouds cheaper from Performance-PCs'(~$10 each) in their Radiator accessories. Phobya 120x120x20 that are the same but lack the LEDs' with connections. You can get LEDs' from them(if you want a lit shroud) for ~$4 each with 2 pin connectors. I like DDen but you can do better in some instances.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Ceadderman

Meh...







You can get shrouds cheaper from Performance-PCs'(~$10 each) in their Radiator accessories. Phobya 120x120x20 that are the same but lack the LEDs' with connections. You can get LEDs' from them(if you want a lit shroud) for ~$4 each with 2 pin connectors. I like DDen but you can do better in some instances.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## PuffMaN

check this shizzle out


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rjajmr0221*


so here's the new fans installed. p/p exhaust. i have been folding for the last 2 days non-stop and my temp has been a dead flat 52C. this is an improvement of 12C compared to the single stock fan. a little loud at first but with a custom silent fan profile they become quiet enough for me. 


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

these are the fans http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103083


Switch the fans for intake. It will reduce temps by at least 2c. 5c on average for people.


----------



## rjajmr0221

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BradleyW*


Switch the fans for intake. It will reduce temps by at least 2c. 5c on average for people.


thanks for the tip brad, i will be sure to try it out. i was going to leave it run exhaust till mon after work, the ambient temps are going to be 27C+ till then and i'm hoping to get a true gauge of my max temps. if what your saying holds true for me also i'm gonna go from







to


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BradleyW*


Switch the fans for intake. It will reduce temps by at least 2c. 5c on average for people.


I don't think it will lower the temps, seeing he got a GTX460 exhausting warm air out the back which will be sucked in by the radiator fans that way.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Freaxy*


I don't think it will lower the temps, seeing he got a GTX460 exhausting warm air out the back which will be sucked in by the radiator fans that way.


Well i had that cooler and 3 GTX 480's and i still lost 5c. You do the math.


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BradleyW*


Well i had that cooler and 3 GTX 480's and i still lost 5c. You do the math.


Wow, didn't expect that big of a difference. Having my back of the PC near a wall I feel a lot of heat behind it. Way hotter then the inside of my case. That's the reason of my thought.


----------



## BradleyW

My PC is about 100cm away from a wall but i tested at the hottest point of the summer with Ambients of around 22-25c. Plus the 3GTX 480's at full load.


----------



## Freaxy

Alright, good to know. Although I'm satisfied with my current temps, I might actually change my h70 to intake.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lindyrig*


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103060

I have 2 of these Sickleflows laying around. Would these do me good on an H50 w/ Push/Pull exhaust setup?

Looking to go 4-4.2Ghz on my 970 BE Phenom II


They don't mention the Wattage or Amperage, and they also don't mention the static pressure. I use one of these fans in my moded case as a bottom intake. I was using a 1300 RPM Scythe Slipstream which did a better job, but I needed that fan for another case and the R4 had some blue LEDs in it that went well with my current build. I wouldn't use them as a RAD fan. I bet the H50 stock fan is better. There is a decent fan chart on the first page of the thread, and here:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ng-thread.html

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DeadShot_1.0*


what do you suggest for fans in the h70 a high cfm fan or fans that have good static pressure?


You always want high static pressure for a rad fan. Having said that, some fans with high CFM also have good static pressure. If you are using a fan controller to control the RPM, I would suggest both. I am using 1900 RPM Scythe Slipstream highspeed PWM fans that move 110 CFM unobstructed, but also draw .51 amps which gives them a great torque. Unfortunately they don't list the static pressure for those fans, but I'm banking on the high torque keeping the pressure up. They seem to work good for me. See link above for fan comparison.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rjajmr0221*


so here's the new fans installed. p/p exhaust. i have been folding for the last 2 days non-stop and my temp has been a dead flat 52C. this is an improvement of 12C compared to the single stock fan. a little loud at first but with a custom silent fan profile they become quiet enough for me. 



You're the fourth person I've seen using those fans, and all of you seem happy with them. I've heard good things about them. They look sweet too.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rjajmr0221*


thanks for the tip brad, i will be sure to try it out. i was going to leave it run exhaust till mon after work, the ambient temps are going to be 27C+ till then and i'm hoping to get a true gauge of my max temps. if what your saying holds true for me also i'm gonna go from







to










I have an unusual mounting of my H70 in my case. However, I did a comparison of intake vs exhaust and I only saw a few degrees difference. There was more of an impact on my internal and chipset temps than on my CPU. Most people only experience a difference of a few degrees.

Here are pics of Intake vs Exhaust. My H70 is mounted in the top of my case. If I had it mounted in the back I would set it as exhaust for reasons already mentioned by others here. I have currently set it as exhaust because when it was intake it was drawing too much dust into the H70.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BradleyW*


Switch the fans for intake. It will reduce temps by at least 2c. 5c on average for people.


Now that's not entirely true Brad. Mine ~3c difference in temps. Of course my CPU is lapped and I was running High Speed Silents.









But I would DEFINITELY rotate the Radiator 180 degrees and maybe look at a better pair of fans. The stock fans are okay, but there is better available.









~Ceadder


----------



## Starbomba

I've been wondering if the setup on my H50 is OK. I really cannot mount in another position other than that. Is it OK, or am i experiencing some reduction in performance? That is actually an old pic, i'm using 2x CM silent fans.


----------



## Ceadderman

As long as there are no kinks in the hoses that should be perfect. Any air in the system will be trapped away from the hoses in the topside of the Radiator. You can run it in Intake if you wish but I doubt you'll see much of a decrease in temps because it would be fighting simple physics. That being that heat rises.









Wherever you plug your pump in make sure that that header is running 100% or 90%. Anything less, "Ignore" and that will keep your pump scooting along beautifully.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

I was trying to get a good recording of the noise my H50 is making in my 2nd computer. It doesn't seem as bad today, and I just can't get the recording to record the same noise as my ear is hearing. For a second I touched the pump with my cell phone and you can hear a sort of buzzing noise, and as I pull the phone away, again for only a second, you can almost make out the buzzing or rattling noise it's making. I have nothing to compare it to except my H70 which is basically silent.

  
 You Tube  



 
 I think I'm going to let it slide until I finish the side panels. If I can hear it from the outside with the panels on I will RMA it. If I cannot hear it then I am going to leave it. I really wish I had of got that H60 (for the 10th time).

For anyone who is interested in case flow, here is some information from Corsair George on case flow relating to which type of video card you have:

http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...-club-202.html

His comment is at the bottom of the page.

I have seen other discussions from people who have changed their top fans to intake and gotten good results.


----------



## Starbomba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14015112*
> As long as there are no kinks in the hoses that should be perfect. Any air in the system will be trapped away from the hoses in the topside of the Radiator. You can run it in Intake if you wish but I doubt you'll see much of a decrease in temps because it would be fighting simple physics. That being that heat rises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wherever you plug your pump in make sure that that header is running 100% or 90%. Anything less, "Ignore" and that will keep your pump scooting along beautifully.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Yeah, i have it plugged to SYSFAN1, and turned off all regulations on it on BIOS. On HWMonitor i always get 1390-1410 RPM, which should be the normal speed, so no problems on that side. Hoses are also as shown, no kinks or that. I tried placing in all positions but that one come as the least forced for the hoses, and the easiest to install.

Rad fans are conencted to CPUFAN, but those are only 3-pin fans, so they always get max speed. The F9's are connected to SYSFAN2, the only BIOS-regulated fan for intake and PWM (even tho they're already silent even on max), so they give fresh air to the HDD's, PSU and rad.

I had to do a bit of a ghetto mod on this case, as it wouldn't fit a 120mm fan (i even had to mod the 80mm holes into 92mm to fit the F9's on the front and back, both as intakes). Plus, i kinda thought to place it on the top also because of physics


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy;14012988*
> Wow, didn't expect that big of a difference. Having my back of the PC near a wall I feel a lot of heat behind it. Way hotter then the inside of my case. That's the reason of my thought.


It may not be a big difference in your case, since it's right next to a wall. If it had more open space, intake is the way to go.


----------



## linkin93

Count me in.










Running as intake.

Pump is running at 100% all the time, with the fan set to ~1500rpm until the CPU gets over 50c, then it goes full ball.


----------



## dekciW

Count me in x2


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey guys you have to go to the OP, scroll down to the base of the Google.doc and you can enter your setups using the link you find there.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## cyang09

Ok So I have the H60 set up in my corsair 650D as an exhuast. Cpu is i7 920 but then idle temp is running at around 70c? That does not sound right to me at all. Anyone have any ideas on this?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyang09;14019232*
> Ok So I have the H60 set up in my corsair 650D as an exhuast. Cpu is i7 920 but then idle temp is running at around 70c? That does not sound right to me at all. Anyone have any ideas on this?


Try a reseat. Temps in the high 50s' sound about right 70c sounds like a reseat is in order.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## linkin93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav2000;7693153*
> Im here tooo. Please add me....just a quick question guys...how much tim is required for this setup to work optimally. I am using mx2 with the spread method, so a very thin layer...but looking at the copper plate and the finish on it, I would think more would be required.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killhouse;7694551*
> I tried applying the MX2 a few times before I was happy. I ended up putting 5 small dots on the chip and then mounting H50. Seemed to give the best result (by observation), if you're not hitting stupid temperatures then you probably did it fine.


Wrong and wrong. Single BB sized dot on the CPU > Mount block. Spreading makes air bubbles.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyang09;14019232*
> Ok So I have the H60 set up in my corsair 650D as an exhuast. Cpu is i7 920 but then idle temp is running at around 70c? That does not sound right to me at all. Anyone have any ideas on this?


Please get rid of the A-Power, it is junk. Trust me, I've had one.


----------



## cyang09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkin93;14019439*
> Wrong and wrong. Single BB sized dot on the CPU > Mount block. Spreading makes air bubbles.
> 
> Please get rid of the A-Power, it is junk. Trust me, I've had one.


Oh man, The picture is a whole new rig lol, that A-Power was thrown out a long time ago xD, need to update my specs after i finish modding my corsair 700D.


----------



## cyang09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14019378*
> Try a reseat. Temps in the high 50s' sound about right 70c sounds like a reseat is in order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Probably, the liquid is getting so warm. Its worst than a stock HS. LOL


----------



## eternal7trance

When I mounted my h60 the double sided screws didn't go all the way in to the motherboard. But the thumb screw went down flush with the top side of the double sided screw. Is the bottom part of the double sided screw supposed to not go all the way down to the motherboard or am I doing it wrong?

All four of them have a 1-2mm gap between the big part of the bottom of the double sided screw and the motherboard.

Edit: Could someone take a really up close picture of how you have the screw in to the motherboard on your h60? Thanks.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyang09;14019642*
> Probably, the liquid is getting so warm. Its worst than a stock HS. LOL


Wait what? The liquid is warm? Then you should make sure your pump is running at full speed. If it is then it's a reseat. If not, then access BIOS and check to see that your Pump is running 90 to 100%. If you cannot set header speeds then set to "ignore" and that will run your pump at 100% by default.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Kokin

The only time I had the liquid running hot was when I purposely turned off ALL my fans (aside from GPU) and ran IBT for 30-45minutes. CPU socket reached 70C, though cores (theoretically) only reached 67C, which I could not get my B55 to BoSD due to thermal limits (x555 can reach 70C).

I love how the H50 can run without fans as long as the water is pumping.


----------



## cyang09

well i will reseat it when I find the TIM lol, its running full speed alright. I will get back after I reseat and check the temps on it.


----------



## scaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Good Static Pressure fans are the best fans. Check out the list of fans in OP to find a reasonable fan with good SP.









~Ceadder










I just got 7 of these:

http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/...1238-12HB.aspx

They are loud, but the fan controller should be here soon. I like how these can start at 5v and should do well in my case.

http://www1.futureelectronics.com/do...D1238-12HB.pdf

I had vertically mounted g-flex fans which they are not made to do. The Orion fans are dual ball bearing and had a price mistake so I got them very cheap.


----------



## lawrencendlw

I got a call about my H100 today. "Its still on back order and won't ship until July 8th". It's drop shipping from Corsair directly so I guess that they won't start shipping them until then.

Edit: I spoke with "my guy" over at Corsair (he's pretty high up the totem pole) and he confirmed for me that the H100's will in fact be shipping from there resellers in the first week of July (around the 8th). I inquired about the H80's but haven't heard back yet. He usually gets back to me within a couple of hours so when I hear back from him then I'll update you guys. I hope this helps all of my fellow pre order customers. Hopefully they are as good as the hype and worth the wait.

Edit #2: here's the email response I received:

" Im not aware of any shipping issue at the moment. The info I received from our planning group is they're on its way through sea shipment and they should be here first week of July, 2011. Once we received them here in our facility, they all will be shipped out through our channels. Yes, the H80 should be here about the same time."

So they both should ship out the first week of July. It's straight from the horses mouth so there's nothing to speculate about. Hopefully this helps you guys, knowing when you should receive your cooler.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## rjajmr0221

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;14014526*
> 
> you're the fourth person I've seen using those fans, and all of you seem happy with them. I've heard good things about them. They look sweet too.


they are a pretty loud if they are running at 100% with no way to control them. with a custom fan profile, or a fan controller they can be dialed back to an acceptable level and are no more noticeable than any of my other fans. looking cool is just a bonus, along with the removable blades for cleaning









**edit**
also switched fans to intake, time to see if it goes even lower.....


----------



## Synthean

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cyang09*


Ok So I have the H60 set up in my corsair 650D as an exhuast. Cpu is i7 920 but then idle temp is running at around 70c? That does not sound right to me at all. Anyone have any ideas on this?











Cyang09.....yes try to reseat the block, I too am running 1100T at 4.03 with H60 in push/pull config as* intake *with push fan outside case on rear, temps are 24-27C idle and 40-45C load.....I also have the pump directly plugged in to power supply and fans spilt tailed into the MB..... 

































NM....i looked in your signature....not in post...u running Intel i7 not X61100T....but this config may still help.....


----------



## cyang09

So I did the reseat, I am getting 55c now. The thing is I returned my previous H60 which was hitting 30c but then the screw broke. So now the replaced H60 ran at 70c then now after the reseat, 55c. Could it be the pump itself? I positioned the H60 exactly the way it was the first time but the temps are 25c apart. 
Having a H60 run at 30c first then now its up in the 55c. This is just idle temps too. 70c was just extremely hot for idle.
Does these all-in-one ever come doa or half dead?


----------



## lawrencendlw

Sounds like you need to replace the cooler again. Yes, it happens sometimes when they don't work out of the box. It can happen to any electronic component.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## Synthean

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cyang09*


So I did the reseat, I am getting 55c now. The thing is I returned my previous H60 which was hitting 30c but then the screw broke. So now the replaced H60 ran at 70c then now after the reseat, 55c. Could it be the pump itself? I positioned the H60 exactly the way it was the first time but the temps are 25c apart.


Make sure that the pump is running at 100% all of the time, meaning plug the power connector from the pump straight into the power supply not the MB or controller....you may not be running the pump at 100%...just check to make sure...that would cause it to run hotter if your only running the pump at 60%....also, make sure your fan(s) are plugged into the MB for cpu....and that they are running 100%....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyang09;14033817*
> So I did the reseat, I am getting 55c now. The thing is I returned my previous H60 which was hitting 30c but then the screw broke. So now the replaced H60 ran at 70c then now after the reseat, 55c. Could it be the pump itself? I positioned the H60 exactly the way it was the first time but the temps are 25c apart.
> Having a H60 run at 30c first then now its up in the 55c. This is just idle temps too. 70c was just extremely hot for idle.
> Does these all-in-one ever come doa or half dead?


Are you running the Dual Mount or Quad Mount bracket?

Dual mount is okay but Quad mount gets better contact. I don't know if the Intel setup is strictly quad. I know that the AMD setup can be either or, but I'm not sure about the Intel setup. Just a random useless thought.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cyang09*


Ok So I have the H60 set up in my corsair 650D as an exhuast. Cpu is i7 920 but then idle temp is running at around 70c? That does not sound right to me at all. Anyone have any ideas on this?

Having a H60 run at 30c first then now its up in the 55c. This is just idle temps too. 70c was just extremely hot for idle.
Does these all-in-one ever come doa or half dead?











Pothing's nerfect.
However, you dropped your temp by 20c doing the reseat, so I have to lean toward it not being installed properly. Can you connect the pump directly to a MOLEX psu connector to ensure that it is running at 100%? I can't seem to find any data on the speed of the H60- pump. The H50 and H70 run at about 1400 RPM.

I have attached a pic of how the block should be installed.

However, here's a fellow who got a bad one:
http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94960

So, that could be you too.

You should get good temps at idle even if the fan is running slow, but you'll get poor temps if the pump is not running at 100%. The H60 comes with a PWM fan, so it's OK to plug it into the CPU FAN header and let the BIOS control it.

If nothing the peeps here tell you helps getting it working again, RMA it and rest assured that multiple returns is not normal for the H60.


----------



## Nethermir

hello, i hope i can post here even if i am not a member yet









i just have some questions. i am a long time hyper 212+ user (very satisfied) but i decided to jump to h60 because it is now cheap and i need to use my 212+ on another pc. anyway, questions!

1) i have a haf 922 and if i do a push/pull intake, any suggestions on how the case fans need to be positioned?

2) if i do push/pull exhaust is it really that bad?

3) are the fans on the rad pwm fans or do they need to always run at 100%? if they are pwms, can i use cm blademaster?


----------



## Narokuu

the fans are both PWM
u can mount the radiator on the exhaust fan at the back of the case, its very simple. 
it will work fine with just one fan, push pull will be under your own temperature preference

the pump needs to be at 100% all the time. i run mine on a special plug on my CHV, it is made for this kind of hookup, but 
any chassi fan hookup that u can run at 100% is perfect =)

NOTE: the radiator on the h60 is very thin, and cools like a champ, im folding right now maxed out on an overclocked 2.8 Phenom II x3 @ 3.5ghz, and its at 30c full load. with prime it never touches 35c


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nethermir*


hello, i hope i can post here even if i am not a member yet









i just have some questions. i am a long time hyper 212+ user (very satisfied) but i decided to jump to h60 because it is now cheap and i need to use my 212+ on another pc. anyway, questions!

1) i have a haf 922 and if i do a push/pull intake, any suggestions on how the case fans need to be positioned?

2) if i do push/pull exhaust is it really that bad?

3) are the fans on the rad pwm fans or do they need to always run at 100%? if they are pwms, can i use cm blademaster?


Sure you can









1) This depends on your system, but try and balance the overall exhaust/intake of the case. You probably dont need to make any changes.

2) Not at all, in fact I prefer it. The temperatures will be near identical but you wont be blowing all that hot air from the CPU all over the motherboard (the VRMs and RAM in particular).

3) The fans work just as they would on a heatsink, changing the fan speed which change the cooling power. As such, you can use PWM fans.
NB. the pump attaches to a motherboard header (3-pin) and must be set to 100%.


----------



## exzited

i just got my h60 and am disappointed that it barely keeps my cpu in acceptable temps

i might have done something wrong wit the install but i have reseated it 3 times

cpu is cooler when its in exhaust

goes past 55C with prime running in less than 10 seconds.

my 212+ kept it at a nice 53 degrees with prime. should i return the h60 or get better fans for push pull


----------



## Killhouse

You really need push/pull to be driving that 4Ghz OC. And some good fans at that.


----------



## exzited

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


You really need push/pull to be driving that 4Ghz OC. And some good fans at that.










so my 212+ with 1 fan is better than the h60?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *exzited*


so my 212+ with 1 fan is better than the h60?


Nope.

~Ceadder


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *exzited*


so my 212+ with 1 fan is better than the h60?


Maybe with idle temps, yes. Definitely not for load temps. With my H50, 1 pull going into push/pull only reduced load temps by 1-2C. I've only used Yate Loon High Speeds on my H50 though, never the stock fan.


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *exzited*


so my 212+ with 1 fan is better than the h60?


I think its reasonable to assume that the H-series see higher gain from a 2nd fan than an air cooler. Due to the high density of fins compared to the low density of "fins/blades" on the air coolers.

Also, check your pump is running at 100%.


----------



## exzited

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


Maybe with idle temps, yes. Definitely not for load temps. With my H50, 1 pull going into push/pull only reduced load temps by 1-2C. I've only used Yate Loon High Speeds on my H50 though, never the stock fan.


h60 idles lower for me, underload its deff worse

what is this prime only running with 2 threads


----------



## Killhouse

Thats pretty hot.

What fan are you using?


----------



## exzited

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Thats pretty hot.

What fan are you using?


the stock one. looking for replacements though

i was looking at these since the ones right under it are out of stock

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12...12B7AP-29.html


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Killhouse*


Sure you can









1) This depends on your system, but try and balance the overall exhaust/intake of the case. You probably dont need to make any changes.

2) Not at all, in fact I prefer it. The temperatures will be near identical but you wont be blowing all that hot air from the CPU all over the motherboard (the VRMs and RAM in particular).

3) The fans work just as they would on a heatsink, changing the fan speed which change the cooling power. As such, you can use PWM fans.
NB. the pump attaches to a motherboard header (3-pin) and must be set to 100%.


thanks! i would really like it to be exhaust coz i dont want hot air going in the case, plus it's easy to get air in the 922. for the fans, i will probably just reuse some of my cm blade masters lying around for rad fans. ill try to post some pics this weekend


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:



Originally Posted by *exzited*


the stock one. looking for replacements though

i was looking at these since the ones right under it are out of stock

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12...12B7AP-29.html


They'll be pretty good. Check out the fan list in the first post to compare it against some others if you like.

Push/pull and using a shroud (Take an old fan and rip out the centre, use the frame as a space between the fan and radiator) will make a very big difference to temperatures.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nethermir*


thanks! i would really like it to be exhaust coz i dont want hot air going in the case, plus it's easy to get air in the 922. for the fans, i will probably just reuse some of my cm blade masters lying around for rad fans. ill try to post some pics this weekend










Sounds good


----------



## exzited

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killhouse;14045952*
> They'll be pretty good. Check out the fan list in the first post to compare it against some others if you like.
> 
> Push/pull and using a shroud (Take an old fan and rip out the centre, use the frame as a space between the fan and radiator) will make a very big difference to temperatures.
> 
> Sounds good


or should i just wait for the ap-15


----------



## exzited

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer;8385649*
> I have just finished uploading the video tutorial to youtube. Please let me know what you guys think. I know, Im not the best speaker nor video-man or video editor... I just wanted to get the video done to help others, I apologize for that.
> 5 parts total
> 
> YouTube- Corsair H50 mod Pt. 1
> YouTube- Corsair H50 mod Pt. 2
> YouTube- Corsair H50 mod Pt. 3
> YouTube- Corsair H50 mod Pt. 4
> YouTube- Corsair H50 mod Pt. 5


woulda been fun if we watched you assemble it,


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *exzited*


or should i just wait for the ap-15


If you want quiet with around the same performance as the High/Med speed Yate Loons, AP-15s does the job well.

The 3k RPM GTs perform much better, but at screamingly loud dbs. Look up Youtube videos to compare, if you don't mind noise, then you know what to get.


----------



## exzited

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


If you want quiet with around the same performance as the High/Med speed Yate Loons, AP-15s does the job well.

The 3k RPM GTs perform much better, but at screamingly loud dbs. Look up Youtube videos to compare, if you don't mind noise, then you know what to get.


What about the ap 29


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nethermir*


hello, i hope i can post here even if i am not a member yet









i just have some questions. i am a long time hyper 212+ user (very satisfied) but i decided to jump to h60 because it is now cheap and i need to use my 212+ on another pc. anyway, questions!

1) i have a haf 922 and if i do a push/pull intake, any suggestions on how the case fans need to be positioned?

2) if i do push/pull exhaust is it really that bad?

3) are the fans on the rad pwm fans or do they need to always run at 100%? if they are pwms, can i use cm blademaster?



The H60 only comes with one fan:

http://www.corsair.com/cooling/hydro-series.html

If you want push/pull you will have to add a second. For best results two of the same model. If you want to plug them into your CPU header you will need a PWM splitter:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16812119248

Here is Corsair George's recommendations depending on the cooler on your video card: (bottom post)

http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...-club-202.html

With your case I think setting it up rear/exhaust would be fine. In fact, most people do exhaust.

Fan comparison link:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ng-thread.html

Very comprehensive.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzited;14052131*
> What about the ap 29


Here is one guy's results with the H70 going from push with stock fan to push with an AP-29 fan. Linky

Since you have the H60 and thus, a thinner rad, expect the same results with push/pull AP-29s (about a 7-10C difference) vs 1 stock fan. If you add a shroud or two, expect another 1-2C difference in load temps. It really depends on your ambient temps and the positioning of your rad though.

AP-29s are probably the best fans you can get if you can tolerate the noise and the price. At least they run slightly quieter than my High Speed Yates on full blast.


----------



## exzited

I've reseated this thing 7 times tonight and I'm sick and tired of it so I'm going to go ahead and return it. I thought the h60 was going to lower my temps by a few degrees but instead raised them.

Someone give me a reason to keep it or I'm going to back to my 212


----------



## ra_27

Try one more time but this time leaf it on for 4 days or with out turn off it might just need a bit of time for thermal paste to work right.

I found that what happen with my stock Intel cooler (i'm planing to get rid of it as soon a i have $$$) after a week it drop to a better temp after be high


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzited;14056560*
> I've reseated this thing 7 times tonight and I'm sick and tired of it so I'm going to go ahead and return it. I thought the h60 was going to lower my temps by a few degrees but instead raised them.
> 
> Someone give me a reason to keep it or I'm going to back to my 212


What are you using for TIM? The stock stuff on the plate? If you're using the stock stuff it's probably like all the other Hydro Series ever made. Too thick. Scrape it off and if you can reuse some roll it into a ball and pinch off what you need(Pea sized) and put it in the middle of your CPU. Do not spread it. Old Skool TIMs' did better when you spread it. Newer TIMs' not so much.

Also, are you using the dual point retention plate or the Quad point? If dual, I would suggest swapping out to Quad. You'll get better contact between the CPU and the plate allowing the plate to wick away heat faster.









Also... CFMs do not = Colder temps with Radiators. Static Pressure does. So if you don't have fans with good SP that could exasperate an already negative experience.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

All I know is that I went from a Hyper 212 to my H60 with two Gelid Silent 12's in P/P and my temps lowered by about 2C but at a 200MHz higher OC. I'm getting 73-75C at full load (IBT with AVX) at 4700MHz now as opposed to 75C full load at 4500MHz with the Hyper 212.

The only drawback so far is that if my 580's are doing their thing and filling my case with hot air then my CPU temps rise rather quickly because I have them exhausting hot GPU air through the radiator. If I run Furmark and IBT at the same time my CPU temps will jump to 85C+. I'm sure changing to an intake setup would alleviate this but I really can't be bothered...


----------



## WALSRU

You should be bothered, that's awful


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WALSRU;14057954*
> You should be bothered, that's awful


I was bothered so much that I returned my 600t and kept the RV02.









Horrible temps on that case and I'm not about to waste money on loads of fans. In this case I put the H60 in and it goes to 68*c with 1.37v.


----------



## exzited

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14057806*
> What are you using for TIM? The stock stuff on the plate? If you're using the stock stuff it's probably like all the other Hydro Series ever made. Too thick. Scrape it off and if you can reuse some roll it into a ball and pinch off what you need(Pea sized) and put it in the middle of your CPU. Do not spread it. Old Skool TIMs' did better when you spread it. Newer TIMs' not so much.
> 
> Also, are you using the dual point retention plate or the Quad point? If dual, I would suggest swapping out to Quad. You'll get better contact between the CPU and the plate allowing the plate to wick away heat faster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also... CFMs do not = Colder temps with Radiators. Static Pressure does. So if you don't have fans with good SP that could exasperate an already negative experience.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


How do I use the 4 point on an amd? (could be what keeps me) going to microcenter to exchange just in case it was faulty

I'm using arctic silver 5

Stock fan


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WALSRU*


You should be bothered, that's awful










You must not have read my post thoroughly enough. Temps only ever get that high when I am running furmark AND Ibt at the same time. Ibt with the new Linpack is the highest temp stress you can put on a 2600k and furmark heats up gpus well beyond what any game would. Under those circumstances 85c is not that bad, especially considering that I don't have any need to do it again with my overclocks already fully tested.

Under normal Ibt testing I never go above 75c which is perfectly fine on this chip...


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*


All I know is that I went from a Hyper 212 to my H60 with two Gelid Silent 12's in P/P and my temps lowered by about 2C but at a 200MHz higher OC. I'm getting 73-75C at full load (IBT with AVX) at 4700MHz now as opposed to 75C full load at 4500MHz with the Hyper 212.


Don't know much about the H60; but if the cold plate is anything like the H70, lapping it should show a huge reduction in temp.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *exzited*


How do I use the 4 point on an amd? (could be what keeps me) going to microcenter to exchange just in case it was faulty

I'm using arctic silver 5

Stock fan


You might have to contact Corsair to get the correct bracket. There are a few people here in the Hydro thread that have AM3 with 4 point mounting if I'm not mistaken.









~Ceadder


----------



## exzited

add me to the club!


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *exzited*


I'm using arctic silver 5

Stock fan


The TIM that comes with the H60 is better than AS5. You should have left it on.


----------



## TheArtOfMeh

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*


The TIM that comes with the H60 is better than AS5. You should have left it on.


Would you say MX-3 is better than the TIM that comes with the H60?


----------



## Ceadderman

Check the link in my Sig to find out which pastes are better than AS5.









~Ceadder


----------



## nitewulf

I've gutted a 120x25 fan to use as a shroud on my H70. I know the screws are 6/32, but what length do I need to go through one of the fans + the shroud and attach to the radiator? Is it 2-1/4"? I need to know for sure. Thanks.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitewulf;14087548*
> I've gutted a 120x25 fan to use as a shroud on my H70. I know the screws are 6/32, but what length do I need to go through one of the fans + the shroud and attach to the radiator? Is it 2-1/4"? I need to know for sure. Thanks.


50(53?)mm or 2.25"









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## [email protected]

Anyone got a Corsair H100? Wondered it it performed better than the H80?


----------



## lawrencendlw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];14088795*
> Anyone got a Corsair H100? Wondered it it performed better than the H80?


If you read the last couple of posts that I posted, my guy over at Corsair said that they (the H80's and H100's) will be shipping on the 8th. So no one has either yet but just by the thermal design of the 2 units, the H100 will cool much better than all of the rest of the hydro series coolers. And because the difference in cost is so little between the H80 and $100 the only reason not to get the H100 unless it won't fit in your computer. And in that case, we're overclocks, modder's, Gamers, and Enthusiast so if it doesn't fit, we make it fit.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DAV1DR1CHARDS;14075228*
> Would you say MX-3 is better than the TIM that comes with the H60?


You need 200 hours of cure time with as5. I am using as5 now and it's great, and I can confirm the temps were a few degrees better after about a week. The stock paste on the Hydro coolers is a Shin-Etsu, but I'm not sure which it is. The best Shun-Etsu ranks the same as the as5, but has no cure time.

MX-2 is good too, and also has no cure time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14075325*
> Check the link in my Sig to find out which pastes are better than AS5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


That's a great article. Thanks man.


----------



## lawrencendlw

I think that the Shin Etsu on the Corsair coolers is actually a little bit better on the Hydro series coolers because they use it because it is the ideal paste for their coolers. It's the closest viscosity wise to what they need to fill the holes in the water block. So unless you are doing some extreme overclocking and benching (and in that case, you would most likely either be using a full custom water cooling setup, a Phase change cooler, LN2 or some other form of extreme cooling, not the Corsair Hydro series coolers) then a degree or 2 difference either way isn't going to make that big of a difference for you to spend a small fortune on TIM lol. I would say to get the High end TIM that you are most comfortable with and that is easiest for you to apply (without over applying). Just make sure that you apply it correctly because adding too much TIM can be just as bad if not worst in some cases as not adding enough. If you are unsure as to how to apply the TIM correctly then either check the manufacturers site or the Interwebz. There are dozens of videos on Youtube on how to apply TIM for each of the individual TIM's. So you should be able to find several different ways to apply it and one of which should be easy enough for you to follow to achieve the best results. Oh and in case you guys don't know what TIM is, it stands for Thermal Interface Material... I said TIM enough in this post that you guys would think that it's either my name or my imaginary friends name lol.... Shhh TIM, they're going to hear you.
Happy Independence Day weekend ladies and gentlemen,

Nathan


----------



## DireLeon2010

Hello! Total noob here! My H60 is in the mail. Should be getting it Tuesday.

So the stock pad is okay to use? I bought this cooler to OC my 965 BE up to at least 3.8 again, even over the summer. My 965 is the C2 version. I have some AS5, somewhere, but it's getting really old. I think I've had it since my Pentium 4 build

Also, can you mount this cooler on the back side of a CM Scout if you cut out the grill or something? I've heard these things get hot under load and I'd like that heat to be OUTSIDE the case.


----------



## Munkypoo7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DireLeon2010;14090561*
> Hello! Total noob here! My H60 is in the mail. Should be getting it Tuesday.
> 
> So the stock pad is okay to use? I bought this cooler to OC my 965 BE up to at least 3.8 again, even over the summer. My 965 is the C2 version. I have some AS5, somewhere, but it's getting really old. I think I've had it since my Pentium 4 build
> 
> Also, can you mount this cooler on the back side of a CM Scout if you cut out the grill or something? I've heard these things get hot under load and I'd like that heat to be OUTSIDE the case.


Obey.. Pinkie Pie........

Oh sorry, your question, yes that.

Use the stock paste that comes pre-applied on the H60, it will easily outperform the AS5









As for the mounting, just turn your fans to push air out of your case. In other words exhaust instead of intake. With my specific case [FT01] and it's location.. exhaust actually gave me a 2C drop over intake, go figure


----------



## nitewulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14088242*
> 50(53?)mm or 2.25"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Thanks Ceadderman for your help as usual.


----------



## Nethermir

hey everyone! joining the club, i just switched to h60 to give space to my upcoming 16 gb of vengeance









i did a quick install and im glad that it is very easy to setup but i was a bit disappointed that i would need to get separate screws for the push/pull setup -.- the holes on the rad is too small for regular case fan screws. i ended up putting it on the top for now.

performance wise, hmm this quick install yields same result as my push/pull config hyper 212+, hopefully i could get better temps when i mount the rad at the rear end. my case is made for front to back airflow.


----------



## Shneakypete

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw;14089346*
> If you read the last couple of posts that I posted, my guy over at Corsair said that they (the H80's and H100's) will be shipping on the 8th. So no one has either yet but just by the thermal design of the 2 units, the H100 will cool much better than all of the rest of the hydro series coolers. And because the difference in cost is so little between the H80 and $100 the only reason not to get the H100 unless it won't fit in your computer. And in that case, we're overclocks, modder's, Gamers, and Enthusiast so if it doesn't fit, we make it fit.
> 
> Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
> Nathan


Somewhat confirming the 7/8/11 ship date, provantage.com sales people told me the same.


----------



## Cavi

Ok I need the opinion of veteran H50 owners:

Yesterday I came to my PC, sat down, turned on my monitor and wiggled my mouse. Nothing happened. I glance at my case sitting next to me and see the temperature readout on the motherboard at a whopping 87c and my fans on my radiator not spinning.

Pull the plug. Had a push/pull with some yate loons. It would seem the Yate Loon fans had failed me. I pull everything off the CPU and investigate to make sure there are no burn marks on the socket or chip. Everything is fine. It simply smells of hot hot water. Radiator burned skin to the touch. So I try to replace the fan with the stock corsair fan I thankfully still had. Start everything up, and the fans a spinning!

Other than me having to re-do my BIOS, which I thought was weird and suggested the system crashed hard. So I'm making sure my pump is still working at the moment, which brings this long story to it's culminating question...

I hear water. It started out aggressive, but has since calmed down in the 15 minutes the system has been on (I'm posting from it right now). Literally sounded like rushing water. Have any of you taken the unit out, put back in, and heard this noice of water? There is no evidence whatsoever of a leak (ie, no fluid that I can see). Is it possible the pump was just getting back into it's cycle, and the water had to get through the unit a couple of times to regulate? I don't hear it anymore.

When I was at Micro Center picking up thermal paste, I picked up what I thought was a good air cooler (I haven't been keeping up with that recently). So I have a Silver Arrow here in case my pump is bad.

Thoughts?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavi;14093901*
> Ok I need the opinion of veteran H50 owners:
> 
> Yesterday I came to my PC, sat down, turned on my monitor and wiggled my mouse. Nothing happened. I glance at my case sitting next to me and see the temperature readout on the motherboard at a whopping 87c and my fans on my radiator not spinning.
> 
> Pull the plug. Had a push/pull with some yate loons. It would seem the Yate Loon fans had failed me. I pull everything off the CPU and investigate to make sure there are no burn marks on the socket or chip. Everything is fine. It simply smells of hot hot water. Radiator burned skin to the touch. So I try to replace the fan with the stock corsair fan I thankfully still had. Start everything up, and the fans a spinning!
> 
> Other than me having to re-do my BIOS, which I thought was weird and suggested the system crashed hard. So I'm making sure my pump is still working at the moment, which brings this long story to it's culminating question...
> 
> I hear water. It started out aggressive, but has since calmed down in the 15 minutes the system has been on (I'm posting from it right now). Literally sounded like rushing water. Have any of you taken the unit out, put back in, and heard this noice of water? There is no evidence whatsoever of a leak (ie, no fluid that I can see). Is it possible the pump was just getting back into it's cycle, and the water had to get through the unit a couple of times to regulate? I don't hear it anymore.
> 
> When I was at Micro Center picking up thermal paste, I picked up what I thought was a good air cooler (I haven't been keeping up with that recently). So I have a Silver Arrow here in case my pump is bad.
> 
> Thoughts?


Pull the H50 for a bit and run the Silver Arrow. Then take the H50 and a bucket of water and submerse test everything but the pump. If you see bubbles coming from the hose or the Radiator you probably have a leak. If not let it sit for a bit(couple days) and try it again. If the sound is still there then I wouldn't trust it. It would be time to replace it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Goshred025

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw*


If you read the last couple of posts that I posted, my guy over at Corsair said that they (the H80's and H100's) will be shipping on the 8th. So no one has either yet but just by the thermal design of the 2 units, the H100 will cool much better than all of the rest of the hydro series coolers. And because the difference in cost is so little between the H80 and $100 the only reason not to get the H100 unless it won't fit in your computer. And in that case, we're overclocks, modder's, Gamers, and Enthusiast so if it doesn't fit, we make it fit.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


Someone just picked up the H80, although he is not US. He as actual pictures of the item, and said he would run temp tests.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...-my-h80-6.html


----------



## Cavi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14094212*
> Pull the H50 for a bit and run the Silver Arrow. Then take the H50 and a bucket of water and submerse test everything but the pump. If you see bubbles coming from the hose or the Radiator you probably have a leak. If not let it sit for a bit(couple days) and try it again. If the sound is still there then I wouldn't trust it. It would be time to replace it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


While this is good advice... I find myself in the unfortunate situation of being unemployed, and I don't want to spend the $100 on the silver arrow if I don't have to. So I'm running the H50 for now. That sound has actually gone away for now, so maybe it just had to get back in the flow, so to speak?

If I get one more sign of trouble, however, I'm not taking the chance.


----------



## Starbomba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavi;14096397*
> While this is good advice... I find myself in the unfortunate situation of being unemployed, and I don't want to spend the $100 on the silver arrow if I don't have to. So I'm running the H50 for now. That sound has actually gone away for now, so maybe it just had to get back in the flow, so to speak?
> 
> If I get one more sign of trouble, however, I'm not taking the chance.


If i were you i'd always keep an eye on the pump RPM from now on using any monitor. Just in case


----------



## dizbmikuni

Just fyi Corsair H60 for $69.98 - $15.00 = $54.98 after rebate from amazon with no tax and free super saver shipping.

Rebate link here: https://corsairmemory.rebateaccess.com/promotion.pxml?p=39230


----------



## lawrencendlw

That's a Damm good price and if I already didn't have a H70 and a H100 on the way then I'd be tempted to buy one.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## Kokin

@Cavi, when I start my system up, my H50 does make that noise of "rushing water", but as long as your pump is running ~1400RPM and you don't hear any other weird noises, the rushing water sound is fine. Is it a shame your Yates failed on you though.


----------



## Skrillex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cavi*


While this is good advice... I find myself in the unfortunate situation of being unemployed, and I don't want to spend the $100 on the silver arrow if I don't have to. So I'm running the H50 for now. That sound has actually gone away for now, so maybe it just had to get back in the flow, so to speak?

If I get one more sign of trouble, however, I'm not taking the chance.


I get this noise often if I have moved the PC or have had it turned off for long periods of time.

Pretty sure it's just the rad emptying/refilling.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Skrillex*


I get this noise often if I have moved the PC or have had it turned off for long periods of time.

Pretty sure it's just the rad emptying/refilling.


Yep, though for me, it sounds like it's more towards the pump/tubes near the pump.


----------



## Skrillex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


Yep, though for me, it sounds like it's more towards the pump/tubes near the pump.


Grab the tubes, not too harsly and give it a little shake, I remember seeing somebody had posted to do this a while ago and it seamed to work.

Think they were saying possibly it dispells bubbles in the tubes.


----------



## Cavi

Great, that's what I thought the noise was but I was certainly a little apprehensive at first. Looks like I'll return the Silver Arrow... maybe I'll get to play with one some other time









My noise seemed to be coming from the pump as well, but I haven't heard it now in a good 15 hours.


----------



## Ceadderman

Awesome!









~Ceadder


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skrillex;14100593*
> Grab the tubes, not too harsly and give it a little shake, I remember seeing somebody had posted to do this a while ago and it seamed to work.
> 
> Think they were saying possibly it dispells bubbles in the tubes.


Oh I don't have that problem, aside from startup, but I was one of the people who posted about shaking up the rad/tubes.


----------



## nicolasl46

Hey guys, just pulled the trigger in new hardware, I'll be posting pictures as soon as I'm finished with the build": Intel Core i7 2600k + Asus P8P67 Pro R3.1 + Corsair Vengeance 8GB 1600Mhz (blue kit) + *Corsair H70* + Thermaltake TR750w PSU + WD 1TB SATA III HDD. Future upgrades OCZ Agility 3 60GB SSD.


----------



## lawrencendlw

Nice setup. You wont be sorry with the H70. Just add some shrouds and get some nice fans and it'll be one of the best coolers that you have ever had.


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw*


Nice setup. You wont be sorry with the H70. Just add some shrouds and get some nice fans and it'll be one of the best coolers that you have ever had.


My brother has an H70, and I'm upgrading from an H50 with P/P Gentle Typhoons and a shroud. Lets see how it does after I'm done with my windows instalation


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicolasl46;14114938*
> My brother has an H70, and I'm upgrading from an H50 with P/P Gentle Typhoons and a shroud. Lets see how it does after I'm done with my windows instalation


You may not see a big improvement if you're already getting really good performance from your H50 P/P + shroud. Maybe a 2-4C improvement in load temps.


----------



## lupin_

Got my H60 semi installed. Yes its upside down in the photos. Need to work out a better way to mount it. Have possibly come up with an idea that I'll try tonight.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lupin_;14117570*
> Got my H60 semi installed. Yes its upside down in the photos. Need to work out a better way to mount it. Have possibly come up with an idea that I'll try tonight.


I've had it mounted with the tubes on top and with the tubes on the bottom and I honestly didn't see a difference in my temps. It could be different from user to user though.


----------



## lupin_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin;14117627*
> I've had it mounted with the tubes on top and with the tubes on the bottom and I honestly didn't see a difference in my temps. It could be different from user to user though.


Its just the risk of a air bubble forming at the top over time I guess.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lupin_;14117570*
> Got my H60 semi installed. Yes its upside down in the photos. Need to work out a better way to mount it. Have possibly come up with an idea that I'll try tonight.


If it's working then don't worry about it. That's the way Redbeard at Corsair mounted the H70 in his recent build.


----------



## lupin_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;14120060*
> If it's working then don't worry about it. That's the way Redbeard at Corsair mounted the H70 in his recent build.


Well I think I'll most likely move it to the top.


----------



## vdn20

I have a question for people with the CM690II case. Is there anyone that does a push/pull configuration with a shroud? If so, can you tell me which one you have and where you mount it? Preferably with it all inside the case.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vdn20;14132376*
> I have a question for people with the CM690II case. Is there anyone that does a push/pull configuration with a shroud? If so, can you tell me which one you have and where you mount it? Preferably with it all inside the case.


Similar to my case, so here goes... Ive popped mine in the drive bay.

Push/pull/shrouds x 2 - intake.


----------



## vdn20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666;14132412*
> Similar to my case, so here goes... Ive popped mine in the drive bay.
> 
> Push/pull/shrouds x 2 - intake.


I was thinking that, but I'm short a 5.25" drive bay. Thanks though.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vdn20;14132546*
> I was thinking that, but I'm short a 5.25" drive bay. Thanks though.


Oh well. How about your rear exhaust port? Is there enough room? I toyed with that idea and ending up having the rad, shroud and push fan outside the case. The other shroud and pull fan inside the case... worked well.


----------



## vdn20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666;14132678*
> Oh well. How about your rear exhaust port? Is there enough room? I toyed with that idea and ending up having the rad, shroud and push fan outside the case. The other shroud and pull fan inside the case... worked well.


I've tried setting it up as an rear exhaust, one fan on the outside and the rad, shroud, and fan on the inside. On the outside, when I try to close the case, just a tiny bit of the fan got in the way, so I had to unscrew three of the screws to be able to put it on, which would be troublesome because I'm going to upgrade some of the parts in my PC, starting with the PSU and eventually leading up to the motherboard and CPU and using the parts from the old one as a server or something. On the inside, it was a really tight fit with the H50 pump. It was so close, that I had to loosen up some of the screws on the plate just to be able to put it in, and then I tighten the screws again. I didn't know if that was okay or not, but I didn't feel too comfortable with it unless other people say otherwise. I previously saw in a post with a H70 with two shrouds and it was over the H70, don't know if the fans were on it pushing the pump down or if there was a little gap. If it's the latter, I might would considering getting that in the end for when I have everything I need. The post I'm referring to is this one
http://www.overclock.net/13937879-post18534.html


----------



## Sethy666

Thats a monster fit.

The room issue is one of the reasons I put the bulk of rad, shroud and fan outside the case - it is a tight fit. I even had to mod the port to get the tubes to fit.

I even placed it in one of my top exhaust ports but ran into the same problems due to my tall ram sinks








Quote:


> It was so close, that I had to loosen up some of the screws on the plate just to be able to put it in, and then I tighten the screws again. I didn't know if that was okay or not, but I didn't feel too comfortable with it unless other people say otherwise


If you temps didnt go wild, Id suggest it would be okay - as long as the screws are a tight.


----------



## vdn20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666;14132837*
> Thats a monster fit.
> 
> The room issue is one of the reasons I put the bulk of rad, shroud and fan outside the case - it is a tight fit. I even had to mod the port to get the tubes to fit.
> 
> I even placed it in one of my top exhaust ports but ran into the same problems due to my tall ram sinks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you temps didnt go wild, Id suggest it would be okay - as long as the screws are a tight.


For now, I just have it as a single fan exhaust at the top of my case. I might just do a push/pull without the shroud so I can have it all in the case when I get paid and buy a new PSU. Right now I'm just trying to see what I can do for now and think about what I will do for when I built a new system but use the same case. Thanks for the information though


----------



## lupin_

Moved mine to the top of my case and added a 2nd fan, so push pull. Seen a close to 10deg temp drop in the bios.

Will load it up tonight and see how it goes. Pics to come.


----------



## lawrencendlw

I've been thinking of cutting out the part of the case just above the water cooling holes in the back and making a little door on a hinge there so I can put my radiator for my H70 on the outside of my HAF X and just have 1X 38mm fan and 1X 25mm Shroud on the inside instead of this huge beast with the rad, 2X 38mm fans, and 2X 25mm shrouds all on the inside of my case lol. The whole thing together is larger than my Cooler Master V10 is lol. But it sure does blow the V10 out of the water (No pun intended) cooling wise. I can go 200 MHz higher (to 4.2 GHz) and it's still cooler than my V10 was at 4.0 GHz. But then again, I'll be losing my hearing soon with these 2 Delta fans I'm using lol.


----------



## tjbridge

would it be worth it to replace the TIM of H50 to Arctic MX-4?


----------



## Skrillex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tjbridge*


would it be worth it to replace the TIM of H50 to Arctic MX-4?


Probably not, Corsair H- Series have come with shin etsu pre applied as far as I'm aware and this is a quality quality TIM.


----------



## fullrespect

Hy there. I've got my H70 a couple of days ago and so far I'm really really dissapointed. I don't have the H70's stock fans, but I'm using 2x DeepCool WindBlade 1300RPM în push/pull.

With my 1090T @ 3.82GHz / 1.392Vcore the temps are sky high. After 8-10mins in Prime95 it reaches 59-60-61-62 degrees. That's 4-5 degrees worse than my old Zalman Performa.

So, where's the problem ? I've reseated the block 2 times already, changed the TIM, the fans with 2x Chieftec 120x120x38 @ 1400RPM and still reaches 59-60 degrees.

Any thoughts ?

Thanks.


----------



## Genjimaru

I think those fans that you are using are a little weak. The stock fans are rated atleast 2000 RPM. Need some decent RPMS to push through that thick rad.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjbridge;14133690*
> would it be worth it to replace the TIM of H50 to Arctic MX-4?


I don't know how good or bad MX-4 is. So I'm under the Assumption that it's at least as decent as MX-2.

The problem is that MX-2 isn't as good as G751 which is what Corsair applies to their Hydro Coolers at the very least. I'm pretty sure they apply it to all their coolers but I cannot confirm this. While it cures the same day it's applied(~8hr) it's not as good a conductive(temperature) as G751 which beat out AS-5 which is made by the same company. I would also note that it didn't rank as well as AS-5 which for temps was the same as G751 when it finally cured after 200 hours.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## fullrespect

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Genjimaru;14136975*
> I think those fans that you are using are a little weak. The stock fans are rated atleast 2000 RPM. Need some decent RPMS to push through that thick rad.


Now I'm testing at 3.6Ghz / 1.36Vcore and the same thing happens ... after 8-10min it reaches 60 degrees. It's messed up.


----------



## nitewulf

I'm putting together a new Sandy bridge system and someone gave me a nearly new Antec DF-35. Yea, I know, but the price was right (free). I have a spare H50 and wanted to know if anyone has installed an H50 (or H70) in this case and if there were any issues. I'm tempted to just buy a new HAF-X, but this would save me $200.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitewulf;14137238*
> I'm putting together a new Sandy bridge system and someone gave me a nearly new Antec DF-35. Yea, I know, but the price was right (free). I have a spare H50 and wanted to know if anyone has installed an H50 (or H70) in this case and if there were any issues. I'm tempted to just buy a new HAF-X, but this would save me $200.


You should be able to install them easily in this case. However you may need to remove one of the fans if you mount it on the top or the back.


----------



## Genjimaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullrespect;14137106*
> Now I'm testing at 3.6Ghz / 1.36Vcore and the same thing happens ... after 8-10min it reaches 60 degrees. It's messed up.


It sounds to me that this is a used unit. What is the pump's RPM running at. It should be near 1400RPM if my mermory serves me.


----------



## XtachiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjbridge;14133690*
> would it be worth it to replace the TIM of H50 to Arctic MX-4?


hahaha








sorry off topic
karthus


----------



## nicolasl46

H80 in stock at the corsair website? I was just fooling around the webside, and I clicked on the link to purchase online, and then added to the cart, and I didnt see anywhere that it was out of stock. Did anybody order through corsair's website?


----------



## [email protected]

Has anyone considered painting the rad? Like a color that matches your motherboard? I don't mean inside but outside? Any ideas or does it interfere with the cooling process?

Wouldn't you have to sand it and then prime it and paint it?

Cuz this just sorta gave me an idea but i'm not probably gonna do it but there is a thread about a cooler that looked liked my motherboard.. However it got me thinking what if someone actually "mod" their Corsair coolers into any COLOR or a matching color like their motherboard and wouldn't it be nice to have something like that cuz i never seen anyone bother to do a mod paint on it. The heatsink and Rad.

Here's a example.
http://www.overclock.net/hardware-news/1060564-exp-vtz-sabertooth-tuf-prolimatech.html

This just inspired me to think what if we actually painted our RAD?

I like it black though for now lol.


----------



## fullrespect

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Genjimaru;14137475*
> It sounds to me that this is a used unit. What is the pump's RPM running at. It should be near 1400RPM if my mermory serves me.


The pump's running ok at 1400-1450RPM. I think the problem is fan related. I'll buy something more powerful (around 2000RPM) and hopefully with a better static pressure.


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];14138380*
> Has anyone considered painting the rad? Like a color that matches your motherboard? I don't mean inside but outside? Any ideas or does it interfere with the cooling process?
> 
> Wouldn't you have to sand it and then prime it and paint it?
> 
> Cuz this just sorta gave me an idea but i'm not probably gonna do it but there is a thread about a cooler that looked liked my motherboard.. However it got me thinking what if someone actually "mod" their Corsair coolers into any COLOR or a matching color like their motherboard and wouldn't it be nice to have something like that cuz i never seen anyone bother to do a mod paint on it. The heatsink and Rad.
> 
> Here's a example.
> http://www.overclock.net/hardware-news/1060564-exp-vtz-sabertooth-tuf-prolimatech.html
> 
> This just inspired me to think what if we actually painted our RAD?
> 
> I like it black though for now lol.


As long as you don't paint the radiator fins, it shouldn't be a problem (besides, once you put your fans, you won't see the fins). I'm guessing you are planning to paint just the radiator housing?


----------



## [email protected]

No not planning anything just an idea.. that's all. Just wanted to see if someone would like my idea and do it. I won't for now that is.


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];14138450*
> No not planning anything just an idea.. that's all. Just wanted to see if someone would like my idea and do it. I won't for now that is.


Oh, just throwing it out there to see who is willing to do it, gotcha


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];14138380*
> Has anyone considered painting the rad? Like a color that matches your motherboard? I don't mean inside but outside? Any ideas or does it interfere with the cooling process?
> 
> Wouldn't you have to sand it and then prime it and paint it?
> 
> Cuz this just sorta gave me an idea but i'm not probably gonna do it but there is a thread about a cooler that looked liked my motherboard.. However it got me thinking what if someone actually "mod" their Corsair coolers into any COLOR or a matching color like their motherboard and wouldn't it be nice to have something like that cuz i never seen anyone bother to do a mod paint on it. The heatsink and Rad.
> 
> Here's a example.
> http://www.overclock.net/hardware-news/1060564-exp-vtz-sabertooth-tuf-prolimatech.html
> 
> This just inspired me to think what if we actually painted our RAD?
> 
> I like it black though for now lol.


sounds like a nice idea if you are modding/painting your case. im thinking a shiny bloody red would be a really nice color


----------



## superhead91

If anyone is looking for fans for their H-series coolers OCN has a group buy going on for gentle typhoons. Just trying to spread the word as we still need almost 100 fans to be able to order the full models. Here's the thread http://www.overclock.net/other-cooling-discussions/1008615-official-gentle-typhoon-2150-group-buy.html


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjbridge;14133690*
> would it be worth it to replace the TIM of H50 to Arctic MX-4?


My supply of SE is finished and I cant get any more ATM. Ive gone over to MX-4 and I have to say, it giving me the same temps.

So, I dont think you will notice a great difference.


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullrespect;14136908*
> So, where's the problem ? I've reseated the block 2 times already, changed the TIM, the fans with 2x Chieftec 120x120x38 @ 1400RPM and still reaches 59-60 degrees.
> 
> Any thoughts ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Genjimaru;14136975*
> I think those fans that you are using are a little weak. The stock fans are rated atleast 2000 RPM. Need some decent RPMS to push through that thick rad.


Second the recommendation for new fans. The ones you are using are too weak for that rad. I personally recommend the Akasa Vipers, as they have one of the highest static pressure and CFM ratings for their speed and noise level; and they are PWM controlled. You'll need to use a splitter with a Molex power connector, as they do have a higher power draw as well.

Two other things:
First, the TIM should have been fine, as it's one of the highest quality on the market; but it is applied rather more thickly than it needs to be.
Second, the cold plate is not very flat for the H70. Lapping it should show a huge reduction in temp. It did for me when I lapped mine.


----------



## pa1ntbru5h

yay just submitted my form!
my first club in this forum!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pa1ntbru5h;14141156*
> yay just submitted my form!
> my first club in this forum!


Excellent! Welcome and enjoy


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vdn20;14132771*
> I've tried setting it up as an rear exhaust, one fan on the outside and the rad, shroud, and fan on the inside. On the outside, when I try to close the case, just a tiny bit of the fan got in the way... It was so close, that I had to loosen up some of the screws on the plate just to be able to put it in, and then I tighten the screws again.


On one of my cases I wanted to add an H50 but had no room. I cut out the hard drive bays so I could mount it at the bottom/front of the case:










Couldn't you do something similar? Is this your case?

http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6638

If you put a shroud and a fan on the intake side of the H70, would the hoses reach from the front bottom to the CPU? If you're into modding, you might be able to work out a bottom front mount.


----------



## vdn20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;14142151*
> On one of my cases I wanted to add an H50 but had no room. I cut out the hard drive bays so I could mount it at the bottom/front of the case:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Couldn't you do something similar? Is this your case?
> 
> http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6638
> 
> If you put a shroud and a fan on the intake side of the H70, would the hoses reach from the front bottom to the CPU? If you're into modding, you might be able to work out a bottom front mount.


I could remove the bottom tray for the four hard drives, but I'm using them. And I would prefer not to do anything like that if I could help it. Thanks though


----------



## Kdude6

Got my H80 today


----------



## lawrencendlw

What cooler did you have before and what are your before and after temps? Please give us as much info as possible (I.E. CPU, CPU speed, voltage, fan configuration (push/pull with shrouds?), what fans your using and at what speed... And so on). Thanks in advanced man. We are all eager to see some results (or at least I am but I'm sure I'm not the only one). I pre ordered the H100 but it won't ship until around the 10th so I'm waiting on that still. Any and all info that you can provide would be much appreciated.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## Kdude6

Running an i7 920 currently at 3.2Ghz at 1.31v. Gonna overclock to 3.8 this weekend sometime. Running push/pull on H80 with stock fans only and intake. balanced setting. Too noisy on high. Currently I am between 38-42C at idle, ~12% load 40-42C, Highest I got under 100% load for more than a few minutes was 55C. IMO the balanced setting is the best. Low has very minimum airflow. Balanced has RPMs at around 2100, and High is way too noisy with the stock fans. Balanced might be noisy to some, but if you use headphones or have some low background noise then it can be drowned out easily.
I'll try to update with my results at 3.8Ghz when I can.

I was using a CM Hyper 212 and upgraded because temps at this setting were way too high for me. ~49-53C Idle and 81C @ 100% load. Upgrade was worth it for me. But this is my first hydro series cooler so nothing to compare to really.


----------



## lawrencendlw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kdude6;14145242*
> Running an i7 920 currently at 3.2Ghz at 1.31v. Gonna overclock to 3.8 this weekend sometime. Running push/pull on H80 with stock fans only and intake. balanced setting. Too noisy on high. Currently I am between 38-42C at idle, ~12% load 40-42C, Highest I got under 100% load for more than a few minutes was 55C. IMO the balanced setting is the best. Low has very minimum airflow. Balanced has RPMs at around 2100, and High is way too noisy with the stock fans. Balanced might be noisy to some, but if you use headphones or have some low background noise then it can be drowned out easily.
> I'll try to update with my results at 3.8Ghz when I can.
> 
> I was using a CM Hyper 212 and upgraded because temps at this setting were way too high for me. ~49-53C Idle and 81C @ 100% load. Upgrade was worth it for me. But this is my first hydro series cooler so nothing to compare to really.


3.2 GHz at 1.31v its high for voltage. Have you tried to lower your voltage? I can run under 1.0v (or maybe just slightly over) on all 3 of my i7's ( I have a i7-920, i7-930, and i7-960) for even 3.6 GHz. You might try lowering your voltage and then you should see much lower temps. PM me if you need some help with it.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## Kdude6

I know it's high. I've done it manually to 1.29, but when I use CPU level up and OC from there it defaults to 1.31v. I haven't gotten around to changing my OC profile yet.


----------



## DEEBS808

I want to order a h100 but cant find it anywhere.If can't find one ill go with a h80 for now.


----------



## erik257

here goes my h80


----------



## erik257

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DEEBS808*


I want to order a h100 but cant find it anywhere.If can't find one ill go with a h80 for now.


i think if you have the space to mount an h100, then wait for it, it will have better performance over h80 with 4 fans

i simply don't have the space to mount 240 rads, so went with h80, it's a nice aio kit, but in my opinion still lags behind top end aircoolers


----------



## lawrencendlw

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DEEBS808*


I want to order a h100 but cant find it anywhere.If can't find one ill go with a h80 for now.


I Pre-Ordered mine from FtiComputer.com and it should be shipping on the 10th.


----------



## DEEBS808

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw*


I Pre-Ordered mine from FtiComputer.com and it should be shipping on the 10th.


Thanks.That is so funny after I posted I found some that did.Ordering one on friday.Hope i don't have to wait to long.Oh wait I still need other parts lol.OT-I got my PSU,G9x,Thermal paste that I ordered from newegg.Thanks for that list you made +rep for that.+rep for the link hahahah


----------



## DEEBS808

Quote:



Originally Posted by *erik257*


i think if you have the space to mount an h100, then wait for it, it will have better performance over h80 with 4 fans

i simply don't have the space to mount 240 rads, so went with h80, it's a nice aio kit, but in my opinion still lags behind top end aircoolers










Thanks will do.


----------



## lawrencendlw

No problem man. I am always willing to help out my fellow computer enthusiast. That's what I love so much about this community. Everyone (for the most part) will go out of there way to help each other out. I don't think that there is another community quite like it in the world. We are a really tight group of people. But just like any other family, we often get on each others nerves, talk crap to each other, and just all around normal everyday family type stuff but that is what we are. A family. All anyone needs to do is ask and I will do what I can to help out. Take it easy and good luck with that build. I hope the list I made for you really helps you out and I hope the advice I gave you helps too.

Talk to you all later,
Nathan


----------



## DEEBS808

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw*


No problem man. I am always willing to help out my fellow computer enthusiast. That's what I love so much about this community. Everyone (for the most part) will go out of there way to help each other out. I don't think that there is another community quite like it in the world. We are a really tight group of people. But just like any other family, we often get on each others nerves, talk crap to each other, and just all around normal everyday family type stuff but that is what we are. A family. All anyone needs to do is ask and I will do what I can to help out. Take it easy and good luck with that build. I hope the list I made for you really helps you out and I hope the advice I gave you helps too.

Talk to you all later,
Nathan


OHANA MEANS FAMILY.Yeah I love this community for all the reasons you said.I new only the basics of computers.Now I know a lot more even for being here for only awhile.I will be staying here for a long time.Also when I finish my build.I am looking into folding like you mentioned hahaha


----------



## lawrencendlw

Well I knew that Ohana meant Family but I'm pretty sure that you and I are the only 2 in here that were born in Hawaii and know what it meant lol. Make sure when you are setting up your [email protected] Clients that you configure them like this:

User Name:lawrencendlw
Team Name:37726
Passkey: (ask me when the time comes and I will give it to you)

That way we can make sure that it folds for you and that you get full credit for all of that power you will have there lol... Ok so it would be giving me all of the points







but who's counting anyways right? lol

You know the Hawaiian name that the ladies gave me right? It's KA MA NA WANA LEIYA ... I figure you'd get a kick out of that one at least.


----------



## DEEBS808

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw*


Well I knew that Ohana meant Family but I'm pretty sure that you and I are the only 2 in here that were born in Hawaii and know what it meant lol. Make sure when you are setting up your [email protected] Clients that you configure them like this:

User Name:lawrencendlw
Team Name:37726
Passkey: (ask me when the time comes and I will give it to you)

That way we can make sure that it folds for you and that you get full credit for all of that power you will have there lol... Ok so it would be giving me all of the points







but who's counting anyways right? lol

You know the Hawaiian name that the ladies gave me right? It's KA MA NA WANA LEIYA ... I figure you'd get a kick out of that one at least.


Couldn't help myself so I click the order button on the H100 haha.Yeah when I get it built I can worry about that folding stuff later.That is a very good name hahahaha.Classic


----------



## DarkStarCow

erik257's thread has me wondering if I should use a shroud on my H60 intake, anyone care to chime in?


----------



## lawrencendlw

Well it's either KA MA NA WANA LEIYA or Yuan Hung Lo so i figured I'd go the Hawaiian route and pick the first one.

Have you guys seen the tags for this thread? Here's the list of them that I can see lol:

Corsair H50, Corsair H70, (and now the semi weird funny ones start) pump some water, water in my rig...help!, watercooling. Lol... who's great idea was it to tag this thread with "water in my rig...help!" ? lol. I was drinking some water when I read that it made me almost spit water on my wifes laptop and I was real close to making water come out of my nose lol. Since I'm doing a quick reply in the box at the bottom of the screen, the tags are just above the box and on the left side of the screen. Kinda easy to miss normally but for some reason my eye wandered lol.

Anyways DEEBS808, give me a call tomorrow (perferably sometime in the afternoon if you can) because I wanted to go over something with you real fast. It should only take about 10 minutes or so and it involves something that you NEED to buy but I forgot to add to the list. Also, you should go and check out the Gentle Typhoon 2150 (RPM) Group buy thread. The Gentle Typhoon 2150 RPM fans are really great fans. They are the next step up from the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans that I am sure that you have heard about if you have spent any extended time on this forum. They basically have more CFM, slightly higher RPM's, Slightly higher dBS (noise), and higher Static pressure than the AP-15's do and that's hard to do because the AP-15's are pretty much the best mix of CFM, low noise, and high static pressure all in one. Go check out that link I posted and PM Tater Tot about getting some. You won't be sorry that you bought them and you wont get another chance to buy them again because they don't usually sell them in the United States and the only reason that we are getting a chance to buy them is because we are buying them in BULK (I think that we are buying 1000 fans all together) so they are making an exception. Even if you just buy them, try them out, and if you don't like them (which won't happen) then you can turn around and sell them and you will even make money on the sale because they retail for more than $13 and like I said before, they don't sell them in the US so people will spend a small fortune to get some. I put myself down for 4 of them but now that I think about it, I think I might just get myself 10 or 20 of them. I so have 2 HAF X builds (one of which with a HAF 932 door on it and I plan on getting a 932 door for the other one soon). Talk to you guys later. Have a great night. I know I will







But I need to hurry and go to bed or else I might not lol. Women don't take to kindly to having to wait in bed on our anniversary night just so I can post some stuff on a Computer Enthusiast thread.... Make that THE COMPUTER ENTHUSIAST THREAD...


----------



## erik257

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DarkStarCow*


erik257's thread has me wondering if I should use a shroud on my H60 intake, anyone care to chime in?


i think shrouds definitely will help with temps, but i'm not sure by how much just yet, will find out tonight when i get to test it...


----------



## erik257

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw*


Women don't take to kindly to having to wait in bed on our anniversary night just so I can post some stuff on a Computer Enthusiast thread


better jump into bed now if i was you


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw;14145770*
> Well I knew that Ohana meant Family but I'm pretty sure that you and I are the only 2 in here that were born in Hawaii and know what it meant lol. Make sure when you are setting up your [email protected] Clients that you configure them like this:
> 
> User Name:lawrencendlw
> Team Name:37726
> Passkey: (ask me when the time comes and I will give it to you)
> 
> That way we can make sure that it folds for you and that you get full credit for all of that power you will have there lol... Ok so it would be giving me all of the points
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but who's counting anyways right? lol
> 
> You know the Hawaiian name that the ladies gave me right? It's KA MA NA WANA LEIYA ... I figure you'd get a kick out of that one at least.


I wasn't born there but I grew up there(sorta







) for 6 years on Oahu. I'm Kamaʻāina.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## DEEBS808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14146403*
> I wasn't born there but I grew up there(sorta
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) for 6 years on Oahu. I'm Kamaʻāina.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Yeah.That's sweet.Added as friend.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw;14145950*
> Well it's either KA MA NA WANA LEIYA or Yuan Hung Lo so i figured I'd go the Hawaiian route and pick the first one.
> 
> Have you guys seen the tags for this thread? Here's the list of them that I can see lol:
> 
> Corsair H50, Corsair H70, (and now the semi weird funny ones start) pump some water, water in my rig...help!, watercooling. Lol... who's great idea was it to tag this thread with "water in my rig...help!" ? lol. I was drinking some water when I read that it made me almost spit water on my wifes laptop and I was real close to making water come out of my nose lol. Since I'm doing a quick reply in the box at the bottom of the screen, the tags are just above the box and on the left side of the screen. Kinda easy to miss normally but for some reason my eye wandered lol.
> 
> Anyways DEEBS808, give me a call tomorrow (perferably sometime in the afternoon if you can) because I wanted to go over something with you real fast. It should only take about 10 minutes or so and it involves something that you NEED to buy but I forgot to add to the list. Also, you should go and check out the Gentle Typhoon 2150 (RPM) Group buy thread. The Gentle Typhoon 2150 RPM fans are really great fans. They are the next step up from the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans that I am sure that you have heard about if you have spent any extended time on this forum. They basically have more CFM, slightly higher RPM's, Slightly higher dBS (noise), and higher Static pressure than the AP-15's do and that's hard to do because the AP-15's are pretty much the best mix of CFM, low noise, and high static pressure all in one. Go check out that link I posted and PM Tater Tot about getting some. You won't be sorry that you bought them and you wont get another chance to buy them again because they don't usually sell them in the United States and the only reason that we are getting a chance to buy them is because we are buying them in BULK (I think that we are buying 1000 fans all together) so they are making an exception. Even if you just buy them, try them out, and if you don't like them (which won't happen) then you can turn around and sell them and you will even make money on the sale because they retail for more than $13 and like I said before, they don't sell them in the US so people will spend a small fortune to get some. I put myself down for 4 of them but now that I think about it, I think I might just get myself 10 or 20 of them. I so have 2 HAF X builds (one of which with a HAF 932 door on it and I plan on getting a 932 door for the other one soon). Talk to you guys later. Have a great night. I know I will
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I need to hurry and go to bed or else I might not lol. Women don't take to kindly to having to wait in bed on our anniversary night just so I can post some stuff on a Computer Enthusiast thread.... Make that THE COMPUTER ENTHUSIAST THREAD...


Yeah I'll give you a call around the same time if not a little earlier.What is a good time for you.I will pm tator tot and mostlikely get a bunch just incase.Thanks for the link.Happy Anni.


----------



## Kdude6

I could not get 3.8Ghz stable. Even at 1.325v, but I did manage to get a 10 minute Real Temp sensor test in. No pics though before it crashed, but on balanced settings the max temp was 71C at 100% load and 44C at idle. 
Max with 1.30125v was 70C.

Ran the tests at 3.47Ghz @ 1.3125 and took a pic after the 10 min cycle.


----------



## Munkypoo7

Well, since my brother needs a new cooler... why not give him my H70 and I get myself an H80 for $18?









Hooray for amazon credit for textbook returns ^^


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *erik257*


i think if you have the space to mount an h100, then wait for it, it will have better performance over h80 with 4 fans


The H100 comes with two fans. You'll only be able to use 4 (push/pull) if you have room in your case.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DarkStarCow*


erik257's thread has me wondering if I should use a shroud on my H60 intake, anyone care to chime in?


Go for it. It should give you a couple more degrees.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Munkypoo7*


Well, since my brother needs a new cooler... why not give him my H70 and I get myself an H80 for $18?










I don't think you're going to see any temp difference between the H70 and the H80. If you do it will be very little. I think the main advantage to the H80 is the ability to control the fans from the cooling block and connect to the new Corsair fan controller. If you have the room, go for the H100. That should offer a performance improvement over the H70.


----------



## vf-

Is the tube/syringe versions of Shin Etsu suppose to be thick? it's not smeary like what I'm use to with Arctic Silver. Though it does fill in any lines nicely. You can smear it but at times it reminds me of window sealant without the softness to it... like it comes away from the surface like playdough quite cleanly. It seems very easy to clean up. So I went the small pea route because of it.
It's soft just not as soft and greasy from what I'm so use to with Arctic Silver.

It certainly never felt like the stuff I cleaned off when I first got the H70 at the start of the year. It was really soft and greasy but sadly far too thick.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vf-;14162463*
> Is the tube/syringe versions of Shin Etsu suppose to be thick? it's not smeary like what I'm use to with Arctic Silver. Though it does fill in any lines nicely. You can smear it but at times it reminds me of window sealant without the softness to it... like it comes away from the surface like playdough quite cleanly. It seems very easy to clean up. So I went the small pea route because of it.
> It's soft just not as soft and greasy from what I'm so use to with Arctic Silver.
> 
> It certainly never felt like the stuff I cleaned off when I first got the H70 at the start of the year. It was really soft and greasy but sadly far too thick.


Nope, not smeary. Is sposed to be somewhat thick, makes it easier to spread if you just put a pea sized dot right in the middle of the CPU and let the pump take care of the spread.

I found that it was much easier and I got better temps by not leaving a tail when I was done applying the proper amound. Use something to break the contact at the dollop not the syringe. Then back the plunger out and cap it. All good.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## fventura03

soon to be in this club, picking up my h50 tomorrow from BestBuy @ $39.99


----------



## Djmatrix32

I ordered a H60 from Newegg with post pics with proof after I get it.


----------



## vf-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14163137*
> Nope, not smeary. Is sposed to be somewhat thick, makes it easier to spread if you just put a pea sized dot right in the middle of the CPU and let the pump take care of the spread.
> 
> I found that it was much easier and I got better temps by not leaving a tail when I was done applying the proper amound. Use something to break the contact at the dollop not the syringe. Then back the plunger out and cap it. All good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I see. At first I thought the stuff had somewhat dried out but it wasn't until I started to spread it to test as it became a little softer.

I assume this stuff is a lot better than Arctic Silver 5? my temperatures seem much better but... too much has changed in my setup to compare. Though I have my eye set on the IC Diamond 24-Carat paste.

Copper base wasn't lapped at the time.
H70 rad use to be exhausting and is now an intake. 46c load, fans full speed vs intake 38c load with the fans at low rpm.

I now have two Sharkoon 2000rpm fans setup at the front running about 9xxrpm off the fan controller, 1 over the radiator with a 2 inch gap or so between the rad and fan so no dead spots. Setup like the old liquid cooled Apple G5's. Then a Nexus PWM 2000rpm fan pulling then set to kick in to full speed if it reaches 50c.


----------



## lawrencendlw

Maybe its just because I woke up 10 minutes ago but I still don't quite grasp your setup. You have 2 of the one fans and then a nexus fan too?

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## vf-

Follow now?


----------



## lawrencendlw

Yeah I guess sort of lol. But you should add your system information so that we can see what you have in your rig. You can input it Here.


----------



## 0mar32

Does anybody here at have this setup, a Cooler Master Excalibur Fan with a Corsair H60, if so what are your temps.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vf-;14167738*
> I assume this stuff is a lot better than Arctic Silver 5? my temperatures seem much better but... too much has changed in my setup to compare.


If you check Ceadderman's sig he has a link to a great comparison of different TIM. There are a couple of TIMs that are a little better than AS5 but mostly because they don't require a 200 hour cure time.

Once you allow the 200 hours though, AS5 is up there with some of the best TIMs. Read the article, it's well done.

Oh, nice build BTW.


----------



## Ceadderman

vf-... your Sharkoon should be the Push fan. It's a neat idea to run it the way you have it but true Push Pull setups put the higher RPM fan before the weaker RPM fan. The reason is that the waker fan will drag through the wake slowing down the Pull fan with the added turbulence.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## 0mar32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14170848*
> vf-... your Sharkoon should be the Push fan. It's a neat idea to run it the way you have it but true Push Pull setups put the higher RPM fan before the weaker RPM fan. The reason is that the waker fan will drag through the wake slowing down the Pull fan with the added turbulence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


So by that you mean If I get a Cooler Master Excalibur fan and run in a Push/Pull system with the stock Corsair fan I should put the corsair as pull and the CM as Push or the other way around ?


----------



## vf-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14170848*
> vf-... your Sharkoon should be the Push fan. It's a neat idea to run it the way you have it but true Push Pull setups put the higher RPM fan before the weaker RPM fan. The reason is that the waker fan will drag through the wake slowing down the Pull fan with the added turbulence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


The Sharkoons is pushing air into the case hitting the front of the radiator, what made you think it wasn't?

I have the clear fan (Nexus) pulling at about 1200rpm while the Sharkoons are at about 900rpm with a slight breeze I can feel hitting the front of the radiator. So once the radiator starts to heat up, the Nexus starts pulling more while the Sharkoons follow it.

Thats how it's setup. Don't know how you can get turbulence from that... both the Nexus and Sharkoons are 2000rpm fans but I have the Sharkoons set for a higher temperature due to how loud they can be.



There's how the liquid cooled Mac's were... I just don't have as much as a big gap like that to the radiator. It's more like the gap of that flat grey round rectangular piece at the clear cover right in the middle which is a handle I believe to pull the fans out.


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^My bad. I'm not used to looking in the right side of the case. I know that some cases are set up like that but it's still a somewhat novel approach. That and I wadn't payin attention to the frame back of the clear one.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0mar32;14170893*
> So by that you mean If I get a Cooler Master Excalibur fan and run in a Push/Pull system with the stock Corsair fan I should put the corsair as pull and the CM as Push or the other way around ?


Whichever is weakest should always be Puller fan.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## dizbmikuni

I picked up some yate loons but looking at the stats I'm not sure that they will be sufficient. Will two of these in push/pull still outperform the h60 stock?

D12BL-12
1200 RPM (seems slow now that I think about it)
45 CFM
24 DB


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dizbmikuni;14171455*
> I picked up some yate loons but looking at the stats I'm not sure that they will be sufficient. Will two of these in push/pull still outperform the h60 stock?
> 
> D12BL-12
> 1200 RPM (seems slow now that I think about it)
> 45 CFM
> 24 DB


Which model of Yate Loons? Slow, Medium or High Speed Silents?

From personal experience I would have to say yes. But I don't know which they use for the stock H60. In any case Mediums or better should easily make it better than the H60 stock.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## dizbmikuni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14171642*
> Which model of Yate Loons? Slow, Medium or High Speed Silents?
> 
> From personal experience I would have to say yes. But I don't know which they use for the stock H60. In any case Mediums or better should easily make it better than the H60 stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Looks like low speed actually. That's what the L stands for in the model number I just found out.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dizbmikuni;14171799*
> Looks like low speed actually. That's what the L stands for in the model number I just found out.


Well if you got two and have a shroud it should still perform better imho. Doesn't mean it will cause funny little quirks like Ambient temps have a hand in how well a cooler performs.









However, that said, I would look into upgrading to at least Medium speeds to keep the dBs' down. HSSilents can drive one buggy if they don't have a solid Fan Controller do dial them back to a livable dB. And Mediums perform almost as well as HS do when mounted to a Radiator.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## PhatMuffinMan

Just picked up a H50 and 2500k. I also bought a Scythe 3000 rpm fan. I used the stock corsair as push and the scythe as pull. Now that I read some more of the posts I am going to switch the fans around.

It seems to be running okay thus far. Can't get a good reading though. The bios says 42 idle and the asus software says 32 idle.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhatMuffinMan;14187219*
> Just picked up a H50 and 2500k. I also bought a Scythe 3000 rpm fan. I used the stock corsair as push and the scythe as pull. Now that I read some more of the posts I am going to switch the fans around.
> 
> It seems to be running okay thus far. Can't get a good reading though. The bios says 42 idle and the asus software says 32 idle.


Typically Intel reports 10c hotter than it is. While Thuban reports 10c cooler.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## PhatMuffinMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14192281*
> Typically Intel reports 10c hotter than it is. While Thuban reports 10c cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Cool, thanks.

I am running a Scythe 3000 rpm fan. This beast is loud! I am running it through a molex connector. I am not sure if I want to run in through an on board fan connector. But this damn thing is loud! I have to figure something out. Would it be safe to hook it to my corsair case fan controller?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhatMuffinMan;14193557*
> Cool, thanks.
> 
> I am running a Scythe 3000 rpm fan. This beast is loud! I am running it through a molex connector. I am not sure if I want to run in through an on board fan connector. But this damn thing is loud! I have to figure something out. Would it be safe to hook it to my corsair case fan controller?


Should be fine. But if you're not certain and would like a little tweakability you might invest in a RheoSmart fan controller. I paid $23(+shipping) for mine. Got it from Performance-PCs'.com and it's awesome. On the cooler days I just dial down the fans and it has a PWM connector to connect to the CPU header. Each header on the unit supplies up to 30v per channel. My fans run ~6v each. Enabling me to connect up to 5 fans per channel. Max I'll run is 4 per. What's really nice is I stealthed my Controller so that it sits behind the 5.25 plate and I did it without modifying the unit.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## PhatMuffinMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14193984*
> Should be fine. But if you're not certain and would like a little tweakability you might invest in a RheoSmart fan controller. I paid $23(+shipping) for mine. Got it from Performance-PCs'.com and it's awesome. On the cooler days I just dial down the fans and it has a PWM connector to connect to the CPU header. Each header on the unit supplies up to 30v per channel. My fans run ~6v each. Enabling me to connect up to 5 fans per channel. Max I'll run is 4 per. What's really nice is I stealthed my Controller so that it sits behind the 5.25 plate and I did it without modifying the unit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


The Corsair case I have has a built in fan controller already. I know I can hook the fan to the controller. I almost always keep the fan controller turned on high. So it will still be loud as heck. Could I just plug the fan into a open fan header on the mobo? I have one available. I just heard that when running a H50 you want to make sure the push pull fans are always 100%


----------



## 0mar32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhatMuffinMan;14198754*
> I just heard that when running a H50 you want to make sure the push pull fans are always 100%


That is if your using a splitter as splitter divide the amperage going into the fans which sometimes makes them run at a lower RPM


----------



## andos

I've acquired a H60.

I've somehow managed to lose my standard heatsink mounting brackets for my CHIV.

Anybody who would know how to acquire some from ASUS?

Thank you.


----------



## anubis1127

My local best buy has h50's for $40, and I have a reward zone coupon to use, so I'll end up getting it for $30. Right now I have the huge Mugen2, and while it does the job, I can't really maintain acceptable temps @ 4.0 ghz w/ HT on. I haven't tried in a few months, it got hot out, and my 3.6 ghz OC started getting up to around 68C with ITB, so I haven't bothered going any higher.

I'm wondering should I expect to see a performance increase with the h50 vs. the Mugen2? I did a quick search and it seemed some AMD users said the same, or worse performance w/ the h50. Am i just getting this so I can see something in my case besides a huge chunk of metal, haha.

Also, what TIM is recommended? I was using AS5 before, but I really hate that stuff. I will probably try a push/pull fan setup, does that help?

Thanks.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PhatMuffinMan*


The Corsair case I have has a built in fan controller already. I know I can hook the fan to the controller. I almost always keep the fan controller turned on high. So it will still be loud as heck. Could I just plug the fan into a open fan header on the mobo? I have one available. I just heard that when running a H50 you want to make sure the push pull fans are always 100%










Actually the only powered item that should and must be kept as close to 100% as possible is the Pump. The fans can be dialed all the way back to creeping if you wish. But then you have to live with the Temps. That's why I suggested a Controller. But if your Case came with one play around with it a little bit and see where you're happy both dB and temperature wise. I had mine plugged in on my MoBo via a splitter and just hated that I couldn't turn them down to a reasonable dB level on a whim. Which was what prompted me to get the RheoSmart.

So yes you've heard and read 100% but I think you've transposed the meaning to the fans which don't need to be running 100%. That's great for temps an all but after hours of sitting at the computer and with hours more having to be spent there, you'll go quite mad from the dB level.









~Ceadder


----------



## Hawk777th

I have been using these fans on my H50s for a couple years now?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103091

Is there a better option these days? My new case only has one rear exit so I have considered getting a fan that pulls more CFM. I know that for a rad you want better static pressure though? Any better fans out there I could pick off newegg?


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hawk777th*


I have been using these fans on my H50s for a couple years now?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103091

Is there a better option these days? My new case only has one rear exit so I have considered getting a fan that pulls more CFM. I know that for a rad you want better static pressure though? Any better fans out there I could pick off newegg?


Akasa Vipers have better CFM, and more importantly, better static pressure, with PWM control; for about the same noise level at full speed. One of the best rad fans on the market right now, and I'm very happy with mine. They're a little noiser than the GT AP-15s that most other people here recomend; but they have better static pressure and CFM for equivalent noise levels.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Each header on the unit supplies up to 30v per channel. My fans run ~6v each. Enabling me to connect up to 5 fans per channel. Max I'll run is 4 per. :


I think you mean 30 Watts, not Volts, and ~6 Watts each.

How many fans you can run per channel would be entirely dependent on the power draw of each fan. However, at 30 Watts per channel it is an excellent fan controller. Looks sweet too.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PhatMuffinMan*


The Corsair case I have has a built in fan controller already. I know I can hook the fan to the controller. I almost always keep the fan controller turned on high. So it will still be loud as heck. Could I just plug the fan into a open fan header on the mobo? I have one available. I just heard that when running a H50 you want to make sure the push pull fans are always 100%


I have the same case (the graphite 600T). I've known people to kill the built in fan controller by adding two 200mm NZXT fans. It's not a very good controller, and I don't use the one in my case at all. If you must use it, just use it for the 3 case fans, not for your H50 fans.

You do not have to run your H50 fans at 100% all the time. In fact, the H50 comes with a PWM fan that's meant to be plugged into the CPU FAN header on your motherboard so the BIOS can control the fan. Once again, if you want to plug more than one fan into that CPU FAN header you'll need a splitter. Make sure they are both 3 wire fans or both 4 wire PWM. I don't know how running two different types of fans off of the CPU FAN header would work, but I suspect the 3 pin fan would run at 100% all the time and the PWM fan would vary according to temperature. That would not be good. Also, if you are going to use 2 fans off of your CPU FAN header with a splitter, check the power draw of both fans (you want the current rating in Amps. Power=current x Voltage.) Check your motherboard manual. It should tell you how much current (in Amps or miliAmps) your CPU FAN header can provide. Make sure the two fans added together do not exceed the power capability of the CPU FAN header. A 3000 RPM Scythe fan added to another fan MAY exceed that limit. For example my two PWM H70 fans draw .51A each. My motherboard CPU FAN header can only provide 1A of current. .51 x 2 = 1.02A, so I'm just over the limit. To be safe, I used a PWM splitter that draws power from the power supply but allows the fans to be run from the CPU FAN header (like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16812119248 ).

Most people use 3 pin fans and just run them at 100% or purchase an after market fan controller like Ceadderman showed you. There are tons of different fan controllers available. I prefer to let the motherboard control the CPU fans, so I went with dual PWM fans. Note, some motherboards can control 3 pin fans. Check your manual.

Make sure you plug your pump into a header that will run it at 100% all the time, or into one of the molex connectors from your power supply.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *0mar32*


That is if your using a splitter as splitter divide the voltage going into the fans which sometimes makes them run at a lower RPM


Splitters do not divide the voltage. That would be a series connection. Splitters connect fans in parallel which keeps the voltage constant unless you vary it by varying the control on a fan controller.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *anubis1127*


I'm wondering should I expect to see a performance increase with the h50 vs. the Mugen2? I did a quick search and it seemed some AMD users said the same, or worse performance w/ the h50. Am i just getting this so I can see something in my case besides a huge chunk of metal, haha..


The Hydro coolers compete with the high end air coolers. That means if you have a high end air cooler you will likely not see huge temp differences. However, if you're willing to set up proper push/pull AND "lap" the water block and possibly the CPU you could see more improvement (of course, you could do that to your current cooler). I am not familiar with the cooler you mentioned so I cannot tell you if the H50 is "better".

BTW, AS5 is great TIM. It takes 200 hours to cure but it is one of the best TIMs. The stuff that comes on the H50 is actually a little better. Use it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Thanks merg. I always end up transposing those numbers.









Yate Loons are better than Sickle Flows as well. At ~$4ea cheaper too.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;14205689*
> The Hydro coolers compete with the high end air coolers. That means if you have a high end air cooler you will likely not see huge temp differences. However, if you're willing to set up proper push/pull AND "lap" the water block and possibly the CPU you could see more improvement (of course, you could do that to your current cooler). I am not familiar with the cooler you mentioned so I cannot tell you if the H50 is "better".


Lapping won't really make a difference with high-end air coolers; since they're already typically milled very flat and polished to a mirror finish. Gains are typically made from upgrading fans, using higher-quality TIM, and lapping the CPU; and even then rarely manage more than a few degrees.

It makes a substantial difference with Hydro-series coolers, since the cold plate is typically very rough and often uneven (mine was substantially concave). So, stock they compete with high-end air coolers; but with a small amount of effort, should surpass them by a noticible margin.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luchog;14207014*
> Lapping won't really make a difference with high-end air coolers; since they're already typically milled very flat and polished to a mirror finish. Gains are typically made from upgrading fans, using higher-quality TIM, and lapping the CPU; and even then rarely manage more than a few degrees.
> 
> It makes a substantial difference with Hydro-series coolers, since the cold plate is typically very rough and often uneven (mine was substantially concave). So, stock they compete with high-end air coolers; but with a small amount of effort, should surpass them by a noticible margin.


That's good advice. However, just yesterday I purchased a Zalman CNPS10X for a stock clocked core 2 quad, and it has almost the same surface as my H70 has. That is it's flattened using a grinder, leaving grooves in the cooling plate.

I suppose it depends on the cooler. I was looking at a Cooler Master yesterday with no real cooling plate, but actual copper tubes (the pipes) going through an aluminum block where it's the copper pipes making the contact with the CPU. The surface on that air cooler was pretty rough as well. Of course, I suppose those would not be "high end" air coolers.

There are examples of both of these types of plates in the TIM article linked in Ceadderman's sig.


----------



## Internets

I am tempted to go to Bestbuy today and make use of this $40 H50 sale. My current OC situation is a hot 3.6Ghz Q6600 (G0). The Zalman 9700NT I have is too noisy for my tastes and maintains temps of 50C idle and 60-65C max load. In CPU intensive applications such as BFBC2 I have seen core 0 get to 70-73C for brief moments.

Will an H50 be able to improve the temps on a 3.6Ghz Q6600 (G0) overclock?


----------



## Ceadderman

1.Lapp the cooling plate

2.Get a pair of matched(RPM) fans for Push/Pull

3.You can turn the stock fan into or you can get a shroud to put between the Push fan and the Radiator lowering the dB of the unit and also add cooling.

If you do these things I still can't guarantee that you'll be happy. But I did and my system ran between 29c and 32c idle. Under load it ran ~48c. But I also lapped my CPU on my 955 which net me -10c less over stock.

Intel CPUs' run hotter than AMD units, so yes you could certainly see better temps but I can't guarantee you will. But being that the H50 is comparable(with some slight modification) to the Noctua D14 or Nahelem's Megahelms, it would certainly be better than the Zalman cooler.









~Ceadder


----------



## [email protected]

Has anyone gotten a H100 yet?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


Has anyone gotten a H100 yet?


I am very interested in how well it performs.


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;14207258*
> I suppose it depends on the cooler. I was looking at a Cooler Master yesterday with no real cooling plate, but actual copper tubes (the pipes) going through an aluminum block where it's the copper pipes making the contact with the CPU. The surface on that air cooler was pretty rough as well. Of course, I suppose those would not be "high end" air coolers.


Definitely not high-end coolers. High-end coolers would be stuff like the Noctua NH-D14, Prolimatech Megahalems, or Thermaltake Jing. There are exceptions, of course.

Direct-Contact coolers -- coolers where the heat pipes make direct contact with the CPU/GPU, rather than sandwiched between metal plates -- are often more roughly machined; but these are more common as GPU coolers than CPU coolers. Direct-Contact CPU coolers tend to be more middle- to low-end, like the Cooler Master Hyper 212 or Thermaltake Contac 30.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Evening chaps, Thought it was time to show me face in this thread again.
Recently upgraded me motherboard and Hard drives etc and ofc had to reseat me cpu.
Seems a little hotter than before tbh got me Overclock back to 3.66 I am planning on going 4ghz but wanna make sure I get me H50 sorted first.

All my OC settings are the same, even managed to get the stability at the same voltage (1.14v) as before with my old Motherboard.

Idle temps at the moment are:
42, 38, 38, 38
Max load
62, 58, 58, 58

Just wondering if theres been any new methods/ideas since I was last active in this thread to get the lowest possible temps with me old H50 ?
Another reseat perhaps ? My pump is slightly off centre aswel I remember somewhere in this thread stating that doesn't help with temps?

perhaps the Ceadderman has some advice ? I see your still quite active in this thread, Good work pal!


----------



## Ceadderman

Glad to see you're still about Mate.

I don't have a lot more to add, but maybe I can still be of assistance.

1) If you feel a reseat is necessary by all means don't mickey about and do a reseat. But you might try using the Pea method in the middle of the CPU using some G751 if you can lay your hands on a tube. Don't spread it yourself.









I understand that's not an approved method for Intel owners but I've found that G751 spreads pretty well when you just let the weight of the pump and the movement to lock it down is applied evenly. I've found that was how to get my best temps. But I also have AMD, so for what that's worth.

2) Look for the best possible location of your Radiator and make sure the tubes are at the lower. I mounted mine in the 5.25 drive chassis so that no heat would be sucked through the Push Pull. I noticed when I had my hand above that unit put out quite a bit of heat. Even in low ambients.

3) Make sure your Radiator is kept as clear of dust as possible. It doesn't take long for dust to clog the vanes of the unit. I would suggest a periodic cleaning with a soft bristle paint brush. Figure Â£1-2 for a reasonably decent brush. With the birds here I was cleaning out my Radiator every 2-3 months so I cleaned it about 4 times give or take. Even with my DEMCiFlex filters in place.

4)Depending on the age of the CPU, you might want to look into lapping it. If it's near the end of the warranty most especially. lawrencedlw's Intel CPU isn't able to be RMA'ed because the identification marks have since worn off due to the heat built up from OC'ing and Folding. This is the ideal time for a lapping imho. If your CPU looks similar then I would suggest a proper lapping.

When I lapped my 955(Practically BNIB) it lowered my temps between 10-15c depending on the ambients. It was rather surprising how much cooler my CPU ran from stock to lapped.

Hope this helps Mate keep us informed. Lemme know if you can't find some G751. I can probably help you in this regard or one of our Mates can lend a hand.

Cheers









~Ceadder


----------



## anubis1127

I picked one of these up from my BestBuy tonight, so good to be back at 4.0Ghz...my mugen2 wasn't cutting it in this summer heat.

I need to do some stability testing now.


----------



## lawrencendlw

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


*lawrencedlw's Intel CPU isn't able to be RMA'ed because the identification marks have since worn off due to the heat built up from OC'ing and Folding*
Cheers









~Ceadder











Actually, Mine wore off because I had to RMA my Asus Motherboards 8 times (give or take) and taking off IC Diamond that many times wears off the writing. I have been meaning to Lap that CPU but since I have a i7-960 in my main rig and a i7-920 in my second rig (it took over for my 930 as it's a D0 stepping, it gets LOW LOW LOW voltage lol) I don't even have it in any rig anymore and so it's slipped my mind.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


Has anyone gotten a H100 yet?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *BradleyW*


I am very interested in how well it performs.


I ordered it but it hasn't arrived just yet. I think it should be here next week.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw*


Actually, Mine wore off because I had to RMA my Asus Motherboards 8 times (give or take) and taking off IC Diamond that many times wears off the writing. I have been meaning to Lap that CPU but since I have a i7-960 in my main rig and a i7-920 in my second rig (it took over for my 930 as it's a D0 stepping, it gets LOW LOW LOW voltage lol) I don't even have it in any rig anymore and so it's slipped my mind.


If you send it to me I can lapp it for you. I can't personally use it but I can certainly do the work.







lol

Thanks for the correction though. Sucks that that happened.









~Ceadder


----------



## lawrencendlw

Yeah maybe I should get Asus to take care of the RMA on my CPU for me... Wait... What am I thinking? The way they took care of my RMA's for their own equipment, I wouldn't let them RMA anything ever again.


----------



## Ceadderman

VIVA LOS GIGANTES!!!









I swear my team is being cooled by H50s' modded to their uniforms.









Wonder how good the H100s' would work on their helmets.









~Ceadder


----------



## DeadShot_1.0

just installed an h70 to my system, and im not happy with it the temps got worse im getting 40degrees on idle. can you suggest me something what can i do


----------



## bluedevil

Caught somewhat in a bind......I am sitting at 47C @ Full load (running SMP [email protected]) with my H50 with 1 Zalman F3.









However,

I know the H100 is coming out soon, and I have 2 120mm fans in the roof of my Lian Li.

Is it worth the upgrade for me?










Just trying to get the quietest/best performance cooling system for my CPU with the least amount of room.









///

Just getting my thoughts out, I know we won't know until the H100 is reviewed.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Glad to see you're still about Mate.

I don't have a lot more to add, but maybe I can still be of assistance.

1) If you feel a reseat is necessary by all means don't mickey about and do a reseat. But you might try using the Pea method in the middle of the CPU using some G751 if you can lay your hands on a tube. Don't spread it yourself.









I understand that's not an approved method for Intel owners but I've found that G751 spreads pretty well when you just let the weight of the pump and the movement to lock it down is applied evenly. I've found that was how to get my best temps. But I also have AMD, so for what that's worth.

2) Look for the best possible location of your Radiator and make sure the tubes are at the lower. I mounted mine in the 5.25 drive chassis so that no heat would be sucked through the Push Pull. I noticed when I had my hand above that unit put out quite a bit of heat. Even in low ambients.

3) Make sure your Radiator is kept as clear of dust as possible. It doesn't take long for dust to clog the vanes of the unit. I would suggest a periodic cleaning with a soft bristle paint brush. Figure Â£1-2 for a reasonably decent brush. With the birds here I was cleaning out my Radiator every 2-3 months so I cleaned it about 4 times give or take. Even with my DEMCiFlex filters in place.

4)Depending on the age of the CPU, you might want to look into lapping it. If it's near the end of the warranty most especially. lawrencedlw's Intel CPU isn't able to be RMA'ed because the identification marks have since worn off due to the heat built up from OC'ing and Folding. This is the ideal time for a lapping imho. If your CPU looks similar then I would suggest a proper lapping.

When I lapped my 955(Practically BNIB) it lowered my temps between 10-15c depending on the ambients. It was rather surprising how much cooler my CPU ran from stock to lapped.

Hope this helps Mate keep us informed. Lemme know if you can't find some G751. I can probably help you in this regard or one of our Mates can lend a hand.

Cheers









~Ceadder










Spot on pal, Aye I'm still about had some rather annoying pc issues as of recent hence the new motherboard etc.
I have already got myself a syringe of Shin-etsu G751 its what I used for the reseat, Guess I didn't get the amount/size just right, so simple to do a reseat think I will be doing that next.

I also have my H50 mounted in the drivebays as Push/pull intake nice little ghetto mod I sorted out with cable ties hehe, but ofc in turn makes it quite hard to get to the radiator as the whole push/pull setup (2x San Ace H1011 38mm) with 2x shrouds are locked together with a heap of cable ties.

Might be time to just take the whole thing apart and start fresh.
I'll start with just the reseat first and see how it goes and then if needed take apart the shrouded rad.

I would like to get my idle temps down at least to the low 30's giving me a little more room for 4ghz.
Were see how it goes, Cheers for the advice pal I'm sure ure be seeing more of me again in this thread.

Cheers!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*


Spot on pal, Aye I'm still about had some rather annoying pc issues as of recent hence the new motherboard etc.
I have already got myself a syringe of Shin-etsu G751 its what I used for the reseat, Guess I didn't get the amount/size just right, so simple to do a reseat think I will be doing that next.

I also have my H50 mounted in the drivebays as Push/pull intake nice little ghetto mod I sorted out with cable ties hehe, but ofc in turn makes it quite hard to get to the radiator as the whole push/pull setup (2x San Ace H1011 38mm) with 2x shrouds are locked together with a heap of cable ties.

Might be time to just take the whole thing apart and start fresh.
I'll start with just the reseat first and see how it goes and then if needed take apart the shrouded rad.

I would like to get my idle temps down at least to the low 30's giving me a little more room for 4ghz.
Were see how it goes, Cheers for the advice pal I'm sure ure be seeing more of me again in this thread.

Cheers!


I mounted mine to the ceiling of my 932. Worked excellent for me there as an Exhaust kit. My CPU is lapped which is the reason for my stellar sub40c temps. Of course I'm not in the UK where your temps(ambient) are cooler than ours.









Cheers









~Ceadder


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Nice nice, Well going to heat up me Shin-etsu slightly and do this reseat this eve I take it still about a BB size in the centre of the cpu is about right ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd;14236186*
> Nice nice, Well going to heat up me Shin-etsu slightly and do this reseat this eve I take it still about a BB size in the centre of the cpu is about right ?


Unless your SE is frozen I wouldn't heat it up. G751 spreads very well for a thick paste. And yes apply the Pea to the Center of the CPU.










Cheers:cheers:

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## louis8789

I'm sure this question has been asked 40 million times and I appologize but what kind of stock temps are you guys getting on an i7-2600k with the h50. This thread is far to long at this point to gather info from.

at stock I'm currently getting between 26-31c while idle. Max load for 30 minutes or so and I'm between 50-54c. Which i think wasn't that much better then the stock I was running previously.OC'ing anywhere from 4.4-4.6ghz at a core voltage of 1.355 my temperatures are typically between 66-79c.Seems high. any input?

I currently have a push pull exhaust rad setup at the back of my case.

2 80mm intake fans at the front of the case.
1 80mm intake side panel fan
2 120mm intake fans at the top of my case
and just the one exhaust push pull rad setup at the back.
Temps dont drop with side panel off.

Edit: I was thinking of switching the push pull radiator system of the h50 to intake like suggested. and then flipping the two 120mm fans at the top to exhaust. I just wasn't fond of having the radiator spew directly onto the Cpu, but that would probably balance with the pull from the two 120's


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *louis8789;14239041*
> 
> 1 800mm intake side panel fan
> 2 1200mm intake fans at the top of my case


:droolo wants!!! Where do you find those and how much.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Darkslayer7

Low budget . H50/60/(Antec h2o 620) . Out of these 3 which one ?


----------



## louis8789

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14239107*
> :droolo wants!!! Where do you find those and how much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


rofl fixed. Any other opinions though?


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil;14233856*
> Caught somewhat in a bind......I am sitting at 47C @ Full load (running SMP [email protected]) with my H50 with 1 Zalman F3.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However,
> 
> I know the H100 is coming out soon, and I have 2 120mm fans in the roof of my Lian Li.
> 
> Is it worth the upgrade for me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just trying to get the quietest/best performance cooling system for my CPU with the least amount of room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ///
> 
> Just getting my thoughts out, I know we won't know until the H100 is reviewed.


i currently have the h60 and i plan to get the h100 just to see which one will perform better, then sell whichever performs less.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *louis8789;14239041*
> I'm sure this question has been asked 40 million times and I appologize but what kind of stock temps are you guys getting on an i7-2600k with the h50. This thread is far to long at this point to gather info from.
> 
> at stock I'm currently getting between 26-31c while idle. Max load for 30 minutes or so and I'm between 50-54c. Which i think wasn't that much better then the stock I was running previously.OC'ing anywhere from 4.4-4.6ghz at a core voltage of 1.355 my temperatures are typically between 66-79c.Seems high. any input?
> 
> I currently have a push pull exhaust rad setup at the back of my case.
> 
> 2 80mm intake fans at the front of the case.
> 1 80mm intake side panel fan
> 2 120mm intake fans at the top of my case
> and just the one exhaust push pull rad setup at the back.
> Temps dont drop with side panel off.
> 
> Edit: I was thinking of switching the push pull radiator system of the h50 to intake like suggested. and then flipping the two 120mm fans at the top to exhaust. I just wasn't fond of having the radiator spew directly onto the Cpu, but that would probably balance with the pull from the two 120's


if you are using a high end air cooler before, do not expect much of a difference with the hydro series. i was using a hyper 212+ before and the temps are just the same with the h60. for the fans, there maybe too much air coming in and not able to get out?

you may also want to put your pc specs here http://www.overclock.net/specs.php


----------



## DeadShot_1.0

hi, guys can you suggest me which is the bes fan oration for my h70, may i remind you i live in hot country and sometimes temps reach near 34degrees and probably the ambient temps are a bit high too. i have made an illustration of the fan direction could you point me which is best.


----------



## Munkypoo7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadShot_1.0;14244453*
> hi, guys can you suggest me which is the bes fan oration for my h70, may i remind you i live in hot country and sometimes temps reach near 34degrees and probably the ambient temps are a bit high too. i have made an illustration of the fan direction could you point me which is best.
> [/QUOTE]
> 
> Really depends on your case and case location.
> 
> For example, a build I did for a friend I set it up as an [I]intake[/I], since he was hellbent on the HAF932. That case has more than enough exhaust, so it made more sense to push air in. Also his graphics card had an after market cooler installed, so air was blown into the case versus out. On top of that it was relatively out in the open, there was no constraint in space. That meant generally cooler air was outside the same and kept the temps a bit lower.
> 
> In my situation though, I have an FT01, which has a positive pressure setup, a reference 580 pumping hot air out the back, and in a corner in my room where rear airflow is somewhat constricted, not heavily, but still. This meant an [I]exhaust[/I] setup would be best...and it was, saved me 2C last time I tested it [IMG alt="smile.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> Absolute best way would to just spend about 2 hours, 45 mins stressing each time with LinX [my personal choice, some prefer Prime95... whatever] and change the fan direction after the first test. Just use whatever works best for you.
> 
> There really is no "wrong" way too, at worst you'll only lose a couple of degrees... it isn't something to go crazy and smash your head against the wall for.


----------



## linkin93

Intake is always better, cool air coming onto the rad and moving the heat from the rad to the air is better than just exhausting the hot air.


----------



## DeadShot_1.0

thanks guys i will do some test to determine which is best, plus i have ordered 2 cm blade masters fans for the h70 i think those are pretty good for there static pressure


----------



## eternal7trance

I don't get why people do intake. Think about it, you have that big hot reference GPU blowing hot air out the back, but then you have your cpu cooler right above it sucking all that hot air back in.

The only way I see intake working efficiently would be if the cooler was in the front or maybe the top, or if you had a gpu that blew out all the hot air inside.


----------



## TMallory

I've got my H80 in push/pull intake...should I flip the fans to make it exhaust? I'm pretty sure my 460 is a reference model, so its pushing air out of the back. Currently getting load temps in the mid-60's @ 4.6ghz/1.35v


----------



## Jayce1971

I really think the setup that makes the most sense on "modern" cases, is to have intake from the case front and bottom, (and possibly side), and exhaust out the case rear and top. This is how I have mine set up, and with fans running high, can really keep everything cool as possible. No sense in bringing heated air back into the case in a vicious circle.


----------



## fullrespect

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadShot_1.0;14244551*
> thanks guys i will do some test to determine which is best, plus i have ordered 2 cm blade masters fans for the h70 i think those are pretty good for there static pressure


heh, I've made the same decision with 2 x CM Blade Master for my H70. I'll pick them up on Tuesday, hoping for the best









Despite this enthusiasm, I really don't think that the rated static pressure (3.90mm) on those Blade Masters are for real. Maybe something near 3.00mm would be more accurate, idk ... 3.90mm is pretty high !


----------



## Ceadderman

If a case doesn't have a ceiling spot for a 120, I would suggest to mount up front as Intake. If you don't have the grill style cover plates you can get a 4 into 3 bay device set up your Radiator in it and plug it in from the back.

Intake or Exhaust I would suggest a shroud. You can buy a premade one for roughly $10US or you can make one yourself for the cost of a used or cheap fan and a little modding. I made one out of the stock h50 fan for the price of $8. Which was the cost of the two fans I purchased to replace it with.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Erper

im having a chance of purchasing h50 but im woried of that noise everyone is talking...
whats the story with it... is it true or...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper;14249508*
> im having a chance of purchasing h50 but im woried of that noise everyone is talking...
> whats the story with it... is it true or...


The H50 is an awesome Cooler, even better when you're willing to do some things to make it so.

If the price is right I would jump on it if I were in your position.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Munkypoo7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erper*


im having a chance of purchasing h50 but im woried of that noise everyone is talking... 
whats the story with it... is it true or...


There is near zero noise unless you put your ear right above the pump on the HXX series coolers. [Which if you do.. well, watch out for other fans in the case and your head







]

It's the fans that you need to be picky with.

If you want inaudible performance, look at the Noiseblocker series of fans, ie the PL-2.

If you want more performance yet wouldn't mind a bump in noise take the Scythe AP-15.

If you want to got batcrap crazy, strap a pair of Delta / San Ace fans on there.. and well.. go crazy.









The fans will determine the noise level of the cooler in total, not the pump. Basically, the same goes for a traditional heatsink fan combo, the heat sink doesn't make noise, the fans and the air being pushed through it does


----------



## EdSpfld73

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erper*


im having a chance of purchasing h50 but im woried of that noise everyone is talking... 
whats the story with it... is it true or...



Not sure about others but my cooler is silent the pump that is LOL


----------



## Erper

I was thinking on pump... i have xigmatek silent 12" fan that could cover the one from corsair... i heard that pump knows to buzz


----------



## Coldplayer

i never move my pc and i live in australia..wondering if its a smart idea to leave my h50 rad outside my case (i leave my side panel always off)..would that be better to get good temps?..maybe i'll mount it ontop of my p182?


----------



## Kokin

Rear intake is only good if your rig is not backed up against a wall and if your gpus exhaust inside your case.

I might be switching to rear intake again instead of front intake once I get my GTs from the group buy, since my 5770 Hawks exhaust most of their heat towards the front of the case and I'd prefer to push more cold air from the front end.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erper*


I was thinking on pump... i have xigmatek silent 12" fan that could cover the one from corsair... i heard that pump knows to buzz


It's rare that the pump buzz continues to make noise after a few hours or a few days, since most of the people who have had buzzing from the pump (like me) solved that problem by shaking the rad or tubes to move air bubbles. Most users don't even get the buzz though.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Coldplayer*


i never move my pc and i live in australia..wondering if its a smart idea to leave my h50 rad outside my case (i leave my side panel always off)..would that be better to get good temps?..maybe i'll mount it ontop of my p182?


If you can get away with leaving the rad outside your case, make sure you're not stretching or bending the tubes since the weight of the rad/fans could potentially damage the tubes. Also add fan grills to your fans just so things or people cannot damage your fans/themselves.

It's best mounted where you can receive fresh cold air without pushing the hot air towards other components.


----------



## DeadShot_1.0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullrespect;14248607*
> heh, I've made the same decision with 2 x CM Blade Master for my H70. I'll pick them up on Tuesday, hoping for the best
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Despite this enthusiasm, I really don't think that the rated static pressure (3.90mm) on those Blade Masters are for real. Maybe something near 3.00mm would be more accurate, idk ... 3.90mm is pretty high !


hey could you inform me we the results







because mine they need about two to one week to arrive


----------



## DeadShot_1.0

i heard that the Gentle Typhoon Ap-15 are the best for rads, do you know the static pressure on them and compared to the CM blade master which one is does the best job or pretty much they are on the same scale?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadShot_1.0;14256771*
> i heard that the Gentle Typhoon Ap-15 are the best for rads, do you know the static pressure on them and compared to the CM blade master which one is does the best job or pretty much they are on the same scale?


GTs' are better Case fans than Radiator fans. Yate Loons have better Static Pressure and are cheaper.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## DeadShot_1.0

sry for multiple posting, but can you tell which is the best to connect the pump to. to the mobo, or to the power supply or to a fan controller if its that a good choice, and pleas


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadShot_1.0;14256835*
> sry for multiple posting, but can you tell which is the best to connect the pump to. to the mobo, or to the power supply or to a fan controller if its that a good choice, and pleas


On the corsair video, he plugs it into the 3 pin power on the motherboard located next to the first PCI-E lane i believe. Any 3 pin will do.


----------



## Ceadderman

So long as it's set to 90% or better any 3 pin will do.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Nethermir

edit: ignore my post, fullrespect posted good info that i need.


----------



## fullrespect

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadShot_1.0;14256742*
> hey could you inform me we the results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> because mine they need about two to one week to arrive


Yes, I'll let you know 'bout the performance.

Here's some info I've found on the web:
Quote:


> Scythe GentleTyphoon D1225C12B2AP-15 - 1850 RPM/57 CFM/28 DBA, 2.0574 mmH20 static pressure, 3-pin power connector w/ 4-pin adapter, dual ball bearings.
> 
> Scythe GentleTyphoon D1225C12B7AP-29 - 3000 RPM/83 CFM/36.5 DBA, 5.08 mmH20 static pressure, 4-pin PWM connector, dual ball bearings.
> 
> Scythe GentleTyphoon D1225C12B9AP-30 - 4250 RPM/116.5 CFM/44 DBA, 9.652 mmH20 static pressure, 4-pin PWM connector, dual ball bearings.
> 
> Scythe GentleTyphoon D1225C12BBAP-31 - 5400 RPM/150 CFM/50.5 DBA, 15.24 mmH20 static pressure, 4-pin PWM connector, dual ball bearings.


That being said, on the paper, the GT-15's static pressure (2.0574mmH20) is massively beaten by the CM Blade Masters' static pressure (3.90mmH20). Yes, the GT-15 is quieter, but the Blade Master should be the best at cooling a radiator.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullrespect;14257355*
> Yes, I'll let you know 'bout the performance.
> 
> Here's some info I've found on the web:
> 
> That being said, on the paper, the GT-15's static pressure (2.0574mmH20) is massively beaten by the CM Blade Masters' static pressure (3.90mmH20). Yes, the GT-15 is quieter, but the Blade Master should be the best at cooling a radiator.


How about a GT AP-31 @6v.


















76CMF and 4.3mmH2O at 20dB


----------



## Starbomba

I was cleaning yesterday on my spare parts bin, and i found several CPU backplates: a 775 backplate from an old Dynatron HSF (similar to this model, it's a cooling beast, but it's also a noise beast, what can you expect from a 70mm fan spinning @ 7k RPM as my fan does not have PWM functions







), and a 1156 backplate from my Ultima 90.

Then, when i decided to clean my cases (when i got my HAF 912+ i decided to clean my HTPC as well) i got an idea: how would solid metal backplates work with an H50/70? I've always felt the factory backplates to be very weak. Has anyone tried this before?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14257243*
> So long as it's set to 90% or better any 3 pin will do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Just plug it into a 3 pin power on the motherboard and check in the bios that the pump is running at 1350rpm-1400rpm. It ususally fluctuates between 1350-1382rpm.


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrow0309;14257918*
> How about a GT AP-31 @6v.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 76CMF and 4.3mmH2O at 20dB


I have 2, way too loud + you need a really good fan controller, these suckers draw a lot of power.


----------



## DeadShot_1.0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicolasl46;14258869*
> I have 2, way too loud + you need a really good fan controller, these suckers draw a lot of power.


plus they are freaken expensive


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadShot_1.0;14259560*
> plus they are freaken expensive


Yeap, I think I paid around $25 a piece plus shipping from frozencpu.com


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadShot_1.0;14259560*
> plus they are freaken expensive


And why I will always suggest Yate Loons. GTs' are good fans but when you can get better for cheaper, why? Especially when you can get YLs' in LED flavor for the same price as standard YLs'.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## DeadShot_1.0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14259628*
> And why I will always suggest Yate Loons. GTs' are good fans but when you can get better for cheaper, why? Especially when you can get YLs' in LED flavor for the same price as standard YLs'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


yea i found some on ebay around 5 i might grap a couple of them, you can't have enough fans around


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadShot_1.0;14259692*
> yea i found some on ebay around 5 i might grap a couple of them, you can't have enough fans around


You can get them from proper places for ~$4 each. Check them out at performance-pcs, svc and other places. Some places you can get a bulk buy discounts once you've put 3 or more in your cart.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Kokin

Best yates are around $6 though, Check Petra's or Sidewinder for the better Yates. I've compared my High Speed Yates from Xoxide and from Sidewinder and there really is a difference. Though the 5-10CFM difference may not be worth the extra $1-2 you spend.


----------



## Erper

is 30e for new h50 expensive


----------



## Darkslayer7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erper*


is 30e for new h50 expensive


Nope . I will get my h60 for 50e . So a h50 for 30e is a steal. Go for it .


----------



## 0mar32

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


And why I will always suggest Yate Loons. GTs' are good fans but when you can get better for cheaper, why? Especially when you can get YLs' in LED flavor for the same price as standard YLs'.









~Ceadder










Which Yate Loons do you recommend, please give me the model number.


----------



## ltg2227

i'm thinking about getting some aftermarket fans for my H70 too. I don't care about the noise level of the fans just what will cool the rad. the best. anyway, i'm looking to spend about $40.00 USD for 2 fans. I'd like to buy from newegg but it doesn't really matter. Any suggestions??

Here is my current setup:


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *0mar32*


Which Yate Loons do you recommend, please give me the model number.


D12SH-12(High Speed) Std. They also come in Red Blue and Green LED flavors, for higher ambient temp areas. If too loud just get yourself a reasonable Rheobus Controller like the Rheosmart. I paid $23 for my 3 channel RheoSmart controller.

D12SM-12(Mediums) are perfectly acceptable for lower ambient temp locations. Also come in the same LED flavors and are much quieter than the High Speed Silents.

But if you get the HS Silents invest in a controller for running the fans slower at idle temps and to control dB which really isn't too bad but when you're on your system for a long period of time dBs' can make you a bit goofy.









~Ceadder


----------



## 0mar32

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


D12SH-12(High Speed) Std. They also come in Red Blue and Green LED flavors, for higher ambient temp areas. If too loud just get yourself a reasonable Rheobus Controller like the Rheosmart. I paid $23 for my 3 channel RheoSmart controller.

D12SM-12(Mediums) are perfectly acceptable for lower ambient temp locations. Also come in the same LED flavors and are much quieter than the High Speed Silents.

But if you get the HS Silents invest in a controller for running the fans slower at idle temps and to control dB which really isn't too bad but when you're on your system for a long period of time dBs' can make you a bit goofy.









~Ceadder










Thank you you've been a great help.


----------



## Sethy666

My waiting is over! Well, a little bit of a wait left









The H100 will be hitting Oz on the 8 Aug 2011 and less $ than I expected.

Naturally, Ive pre-ordered... Now to figure out where Im going to put it.

The easiest would be strapping it to the rear exhaust (using intake) port but I may mod my case and fit it in the twin top ports (intake).

Quote:



http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=17961


Suggestions welcome


----------



## erik257

does anyone know what type of screws (the ones that are holding the fans to the rad) are used with the hydro series? i'm thinking of adding a couple of shrouds, so i need longer screws, but not sure what type of screws they are.

thanks in advance


----------



## superhead91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ltg2227;14261365*
> i'm thinking about getting some aftermarket fans for my H70 too. I don't care about the noise level of the fans just what will cool the rad. the best. anyway, i'm looking to spend about $40.00 USD for 2 fans. I'd like to buy from newegg but it doesn't really matter. Any suggestions??


These would be good. Not much time left to get them though.

@erik257 The screws are 6-32.


----------



## andos

Okay.

On my H60, I get temps of 36 idle and 47 stresstesting.

I think these are a bit high, and I think this is caused by the airflow of my case.

I really want the best temps out of my H60, but I don't wanna change case unless it's for another Lian-Li with better airflow.

What would you suggest? I have 2 intake fans on my H60, one intake fan by the GPU, and a huge 180mm fan to blow out the air in the middle, no side side panel on.

What could improve my temps, or should I get a new case?


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ltg2227;14261365*
> i'm thinking about getting some aftermarket fans for my H70 too. I don't care about the noise level of the fans just what will cool the rad. the best. anyway, i'm looking to spend about $40.00 USD for 2 fans. I'd like to buy from newegg but it doesn't really matter. Any suggestions??
> 
> Here is my current setup:


Or you can get _This one_ for about 23$ each


----------



## erik257

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhead91;14268325*
> These would be good. Not much time left to get them though.
> 
> @erik257 The screws are 6-32.


thank you very much for the response


----------



## DeadShot_1.0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW;14258395*
> Just plug it into a 3 pin power on the motherboard and check in the bios that the pump is running at 1350rpm-1400rpm. It ususally fluctuates between 1350-1382rpm.


just checked the speed and what i found out was that the rpm is 1066 :/ and i can't figure out how to increase the speed im using the sabertooth x58 if anyone own a mobo like mine and know how to increase its rpm tell me pleas


----------



## DeadShot_1.0

if i connect the h70 pump to the power supply would it run at max rpm?


----------



## Nethermir

3-pin and direct psu should both run that at max


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DeadShot_1.0*


just checked the speed and what i found out was that the rpm is 1066 :/ and i can't figure out how to increase the speed im using the sabertooth x58 if anyone own a mobo like mine and know how to increase its rpm tell me pleas


You have to go into the BIOS and make sure the header it's on is enabled or running more than 60%. If so then you hit Enter and it will give you the option of increasing the speed. I believe to a max percentage of 90%. You should also be able to "Ignore" the header and that will run whatever is plugged into it at 100%.









The drawback to running directly to the PSU is that you won't know what speed you're running.









~Ceadder


----------



## DeadShot_1.0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


You have to go into the BIOS and make sure the header it's on is enabled or running more than 60%. If so then you hit Enter and it will give you the option of increasing the speed. I believe to a max percentage of 90%. You should also be able to "Ignore" the header and that will run whatever is plugged into it at 100%.









The drawback to running directly to the PSU is that you won't know what speed you're running.









~Ceadder










i can see what you're saying well when i went to the bios i couldn't change the value because cha_fan2 it didn't have that feature the only one that i could be changed is the cpu fan but that a 4pin

and if i set it to ignore the possibility is that cha_fan wont work, because when i booted the pc it began to beep because i didn't have any cpu can connected so therefore i had to make it as ignore, buti will try it to set it as ignore and see what will happen


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DeadShot_1.0*


if i connect the h70 pump to the power supply would it run at max rpm?


or conect it to the PWM_Fan header. But if you go to your BIOS, there has to be an option for hardware monitoring (I believe is before the boot tab) there you will see the CPU fan options, you have to enable monitoring for that fan, and increase the minimum speed to 100%


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DeadShot_1.0*


i can see what you're saying well when i went to the bios i couldn't change the value because cha_fan2 it didn't have that feature the only one that i could be changed is the cpu fan but that a 4pin

and if i set it to ignore the possibility is that cha_fan wont work, because when i booted the pc it began to beep because i didn't have any cpu can connected so therefore i had to make it as ignore, buti will try it to set it as ignore and see what will happen










Even if the CPU header has 4 pins, you can still connect a 3pin fan, just make sure you plug it so that plastic tab is in the middle of the plug.


----------



## DeadShot_1.0

fixed it guys just connected the pump to a pwr fan header and now its running at 1400rpm


----------



## 0mar32

What is the Corsair H60 pump rated to run at ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DeadShot_1.0*


fixed it guys just connected the pump to a pwr fan header and now its running at 1400rpm










Yeah for some reason PWR on my Board only allows 90% usage unless I set it to ignore.









But I'm glad you got it worked out.









~Ceadder


----------



## Munkypoo7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *0mar32*


What is the Corsair H60 pump rated to run at ?


About 3-4000 RPM will be shown on most BIOS', although its actually about half of that in real time use... just the way it is


----------



## 0mar32

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Munkypoo7*


About 3-4000 RPM will be shown on most BIOS', although its actually about half of that in real time use... just the way it is










Are you sure about that ? 1500RPM max?!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *0mar32*


Are you sure about that ? 1500RPM max?!


Max is actually slightly(and I do mean slightly) above 1400. I ran 90% through PWR on my Board and my max speed was 1347rpm. So if you take 134.7 and add it to 1347 you get 1481. Okay maybe not as slight as I consider it to be but still within the suggested speeds of what Corsair said it should run.









~Ceadder


----------



## ltg2227

Ceadderman, we have the same Mobo, so i was curious. In the BIOS, under Fan Speed Control, i have everything set to disabled, U?? Also, under Fan Speed Monitor, for the H70, the CPU Fan Speed(Rad fans) are running at 1925rpm, Power Fan Speed (Pump) is running at 1416rpm and 1 120mm case fan running at 1896rpm. The other case fans are connected straight to the psu. Basically i want everything running at 100% or wide open. Is everything connected straight to the psu running wide open?? and how do i make sure everything connected to the mobo is running at wide open? just curious as to how your settings are.


----------



## ltg2227

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arrow0309*


Or you can get _This one_ for about 23$ each











thanks for the suggestion, i'll look into it!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ltg2227*


Ceadderman, we have the same Mobo, so i was curious.


I'll do my best.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *ltg2227*


In the BIOS, under Fan Speed Control, i have everything set to disabled, U??


For me everything is Enabled.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ltg2227*


Also, under Fan Speed Monitor, for the H70, the CPU Fan Speed(Rad fans) are running at 1925rpm...


That's in pair. So halve that and that is what your Radiator fans are running. Still respectable however.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ltg2227*


Power Fan Speed (Pump) is running at 1416rpm and 1 120mm case fan running at 1896rpm.

The other case fans are connected straight to the psu. Basically i want everything running at 100% or wide open. Is everything connected straight to the psu running wide open??


Pump is running at optimal speed. 120(which model?) seems to be running at a reasonable speed as well. ~1900 is pretty good and really doesn't need to run any faster. You can set that header to "Ignore" which will run the fan at full speed but you really won't see much of a difference in temps running from 90% to Ignore.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ltg2227*


How do i make sure everything connected to the mobo is running at wide open? just curious as to how your settings are.


I have everything set to Minimum RPM base to allow me to slow the fans to quiet them. Minimum being 100rpm. They would never run that of course since they're LED fans(they'd switch off before then) but it allows me to lessen the percentage to a reasonable speed to quiet things down a bit.

If you want everything wide open and have PC Probe II or HW Monitor report the speeds to you(can't do that on PSU powered setups) then Enable everything and set to Ignore on the headers that you want running 100%. Just be prepared for a louder system than what you're used to.









I can't wait to run my HF Supreme cause the stock CPU cooler fan is making my ears bleed.









~Ceadder


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andos;14269054*
> Okay.
> 
> On my H60, I get temps of 36 idle and 47 stresstesting.
> 
> I think these are a bit high, and I think this is caused by the airflow of my case.
> 
> I really want the best temps out of my H60, but I don't wanna change case unless it's for another Lian-Li with better airflow.
> 
> What would you suggest? I have *2 intake fans* on my H60, one intake fan by the GPU, and a huge 180mm fan to blow out the air in the middle, no side side panel on.
> 
> What could improve my temps, or should I get a new case?


Really? Those temps look very respectable.
What did you test load with? Are you Overclocked? What is your ambient (room) temp?
What do you mean by 2 intake fans on your H60? If you go push/pull, with intake, that would optimise your temps. Your case ventilation seems to be adequate.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadShot_1.0;14271073*
> if i connect the h70 pump to the power supply would it run at max rpm?


@ < 1450 rmp.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14273642*
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Hey Ceadder... looks like your keeping busy


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666;14276245*
> Hey Ceadder... looks like your keeping busy


Yeah, tryin to. Me mum is having property issues in a place where piranha fear to tread. These sharks make Great Whites look like oversized guppies. One payment off and they look to foreclose. After 15 years of not missing a single payment. Straight up bushleague imho. But I've seen this before with friends. It seems that is how people here do business.









So I've got quite bit on my plate. I know it doesn't look it but having to run back and forth between her and where I'm living can be somewhat time consuming. Would it be wrong of me to hope the note holder gets run over by a runaway Diesel truck?









Other than that I'm okay. Sidetracked but okay.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Sethy666

That sucks... I hope it all works out for you both.

One can only hope, I guess... after all diesel trucks have a mind of their own, at times.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666;14276452*
> That sucks... I hope it all works out for you both.
> 
> One can only hope, I guess... after all diesel trucks have a mind of their own, at times.


Well she has money coming in she finally got her divorce settlement, but the note holder is one of those money grubbing types that wouldn't hesitate to throw a nun into the street if they felt like the could make a buck off it. Is okay they misrepresented themselves when they made the filing. Tried to make like she was more than a month behind. Oh well talking about it ain't gonna help my blood pressure.









Time to do a restart, just updated my AV program.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14276685*
> Time to do a restart, just updated my AV program.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Nothing like a good AV proggy to take your mind off things.


----------



## ManOnFire

Anyone had any insider info from corsair as to when the H100 will drop?

I realise this subject has been done to death, but the H80's been out a while and my H100 has been delayed 3 times so far. And now I don't even have an estmate available.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14231598*
> Glad to see you're still about Mate.
> 
> I don't have a lot more to add, but maybe I can still be of assistance.
> 
> 1) If you feel a reseat is necessary by all means don't mickey about and do a reseat. But you might try using the Pea method in the middle of the CPU using some G751 if you can lay your hands on a tube. Don't spread it yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I understand that's not an approved method for Intel owners but I've found that G751 spreads pretty well when you just let the weight of the pump and the movement to lock it down is applied evenly. I've found that was how to get my best temps. But I also have AMD, so for what that's worth.
> 
> 2) Look for the best possible location of your Radiator and make sure the tubes are at the lower. I mounted mine in the 5.25 drive chassis so that no heat would be sucked through the Push Pull. I noticed when I had my hand above that unit put out quite a bit of heat. Even in low ambients.
> 
> 3) Make sure your Radiator is kept as clear of dust as possible. It doesn't take long for dust to clog the vanes of the unit. I would suggest a periodic cleaning with a soft bristle paint brush. Figure £1-2 for a reasonably decent brush. With the birds here I was cleaning out my Radiator every 2-3 months so I cleaned it about 4 times give or take. Even with my DEMCiFlex filters in place.
> 
> 4)Depending on the age of the CPU, you might want to look into lapping it. If it's near the end of the warranty most especially. lawrencedlw's Intel CPU isn't able to be RMA'ed because the identification marks have since worn off due to the heat built up from OC'ing and Folding. This is the ideal time for a lapping imho. If your CPU looks similar then I would suggest a proper lapping.
> 
> When I lapped my 955(Practically BNIB) it lowered my temps between 10-15c depending on the ambients. It was rather surprising how much cooler my CPU ran from stock to lapped.
> 
> Hope this helps Mate keep us informed. Lemme know if you can't find some G751. I can probably help you in this regard or one of our Mates can lend a hand.
> 
> Cheers:cheers:
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Ok went ahead and reseated the H50 even dismantled the push/pull setup and cleaned out the Rad. Ive never seen so much dust how I was able to get the temps I was seeing is just silly about half an inch on each side of the Rad....Not good!

Was quite pleased with the stock temps after cleaning all this out
(idle 34 30 30 31) So I went for the 4ghz after several days benching etc All is stable! And have achieved my idle temps I had at 3.66 at 4ghz pretty much.

Max load now at 4ghz is 64 57 58 57

Fookin dust what a killer!

Cheers for the advice Ceadderman keep up the good work! + rep

Some pics to show


----------



## Ceadderman

Glad ya got it sussed out R3aCt0r. Looks good.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Aye seems so indeed, only annoyance is I cant seem to get my Rig stable while using 1T command rate on me Ram. Has to be 2T nor can I get a stable oc on the Ram was trying 1900mhz with 1.66v without luck









Currently running ram at 1547mhz.


----------



## NitrousX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd;14281875*
> Ok went ahead and reseated the H50 even dismantled the push/pull setup and cleaned out the Rad. Ive never seen so much dust how I was able to get the temps I was seeing is just silly about half an inch on each side of the Rad....Not good!
> 
> Was quite pleased with the stock temps after cleaning all this out
> (idle 34 30 30 31) So I went for the 4ghz after several days benching etc All is stable! And have achieved my idle temps I had at 3.66 at 4ghz pretty much.
> 
> Max load now at 4ghz is 64 57 58 57
> 
> Fookin dust what a killer!
> 
> Cheers for the advice Ceadderman keep up the good work! + rep
> 
> Some pics to show


I am curious as to what your temps are with HT on?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd;14284151*
> Aye seems so indeed, only annoyance is I cant seem to get my Rig stable while using 1T command rate on me Ram. Has to be 2T nor can I get a stable oc on the Ram was trying 1900mhz with 1.66v without luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently running ram at 1547mhz.


Sadly the H50 doesn't help control RAM.


















Wish I knew Intel clocking, I'd help ya but that would be like sending a blind man into a whorehouse and telling him to find the virgin.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitrousX;14284195*
> I am curious as to what your temps are with HT on?


HT gives a 10c rise on my CPU.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitrousX;14284195*
> I am curious as to what your temps are with HT on?


Will test and let ya know pal








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14284230*
> Sadly the H50 doesn't help control RAM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish I knew Intel clocking, I'd help ya but that would be like sending a blind man into a whorehouse and telling him to find the virgin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


lol!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW;14284779*
> HT gives a 10c rise on my CPU.


Sounds about right, we shall see.


----------



## Starbomba

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Wish I knew Intel clocking, I'd help ya but that would be like sending a blind man into a whorehouse and telling him to find the virgin.










*imagines how this can be done*


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Starbomba*


*imagines how this can be done*



















By brail most likely.









~Ceadder


----------



## the_dude

Question, I just got the h60, I'm hearing a bubbly/gurgling type sound from the heat sink part is this normal? Thanks

sorry if this has been asked before too, 1890 pages seems to be a bit to many to look through.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManOnFire;14281110*
> Anyone had any insider info from corsair as to when the H100 will drop?
> 
> I realise this subject has been done to death, but the H80's been out a while and my H100 has been delayed 3 times so far. And now I don't even have an estmate available.


Its slated for sale in Australia on or around 8/8/11. The PC store I get my gear from as it up on their website for this date... Ive pre-ordered








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the_dude;14286393*
> Question, I just got the h60, I'm hearing a bubbly/gurgling type sound from the heat sink part is this normal? Thanks
> 
> sorry if this has been asked before too, 1890 pages seems to be a bit to many to look through.


The pump I presume? Prolly air - thats normal after installation or if you have re-orientated the unit by laying your PC down etc. Thats normal and should work its way out to the rad. If it continues, take the unit out and give it a good shake and install again.


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the_dude;14286393*
> Question, I just got the h60, I'm hearing a bubbly/gurgling type sound from the heat sink part is this normal? Thanks
> 
> sorry if this has been asked before too, 1890 pages seems to be a bit to many to look through.


How did you install the rad? If vertically make sure the hoses are on the bottom and not on top (air gets trapped on top)


----------



## Sauce Boss

Can someone PM me an answer to this?:

Is an H50 the best cooling solution (ie: lowest temps) for an AMD Phenom II X4 965 over air coolers?


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FasterX;14286989*
> Can someone PM me an answer to this?:
> 
> Is an H50 the best cooling solution (ie: lowest temps) for an AMD Phenom II X4 965 over air coolers?


Honestly if you're looking to buy one now, grab an H60. Will do better temp wise.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FasterX;14286989*
> Can someone PM me an answer to this?:
> 
> Is an H50 the best cooling solution (ie: lowest temps) for an AMD Phenom II X4 965 over air coolers?


@3.8 and below yes I believe the H50 is an excellent Cooler over Air Coolers. Anything higher it's really due to the work you've put into it and the ambient temps of the area where your system sits. I believe that H50 is comparable to the two best Air Coolers on the market, Prolimatech Megahelms and Noctua D14. It's not as good as a custom loop, but then Corsair never claimed it would be.









I'm on the second floor and my system sits in front of a window. If I need it to be cooler, I close the windows and kick the AC on.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## the_dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicolasl46;14286970*
> How did you install the rad? If vertically make sure the hoses are on the bottom and not on top (air gets trapped on top)


Yea vertically with the hoses on the bottom. Would it be worth trying to mount it on the top of my case?


----------



## Poliwrath

Alright, so I just bought the H50 last weekend at Best Buy for $40...and to me, that's just a huge steal at that price.

However!.... I need a new case. I had a fun time trying to get the radiator installed in my current case and ventilation is a huge issue now. I am pretty stubborn on getting a mid-tower case as I have no real reason to get a full tower (I don't put a lot of stuff inside).

I have been eyeballing the CM 690 II. It seems to have a ton of airflow and I can finally pull off some cable management.

How well does the H50 fit in that case? Is there any jerry-rigging that needs to be done to make things work?


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the_dude;14287501*
> Yea vertically with the hoses on the bottom. Would it be worth trying to mount it on the top of my case?


Give it a little time, like Sethy666 said, its probably air inside.


----------



## Sauce Boss

So what If I want to OC +3.8?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Poliwrath;14288342*
> Alright, so I just bought the H50 last weekend at Best Buy for $40...and to me, that's just a huge steal at that price.
> 
> ~snip~
> 
> I have been eyeballing the CM 690 II. It seems to have a ton of airflow and I can finally pull off some cable management.
> 
> How well does the H50 fit in that case? Is there any jerry-rigging that needs to be done to make things work?


The CM 690 and 690 II cases are excellent. The H50 fits with no issues into my 690 so you wont have any probs with a 690 II.


----------



## ocman

Hi all,

Are there any one here uses a H-70, H-60, H-80, or H-100 had problem using the cpu cooler with P5Q series mobo?

Thank you in advance!


----------



## vdn20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Poliwrath;14288342*
> Alright, so I just bought the H50 last weekend at Best Buy for $40...and to me, that's just a huge steal at that price.
> 
> However!.... I need a new case. I had a fun time trying to get the radiator installed in my current case and ventilation is a huge issue now. I am pretty stubborn on getting a mid-tower case as I have no real reason to get a full tower (I don't put a lot of stuff inside).
> 
> I have been eyeballing the CM 690 II. It seems to have a ton of airflow and I can finally pull off some cable management.
> 
> How well does the H50 fit in that case? Is there any jerry-rigging that needs to be done to make things work?


It might depends on where you decide to mount it. In my case, the CM690II advanced, I was trying to mount it in the rear, but there was barely enough room for a push/pull setup. It was basically pushing on the pump itself. I don't know if different motherboards have different placements of the CPU, but for mine, it ran into that problem. For when tried to mount it right above the pump, there was just enough room for the corsair fan. For the other top fan location, the RAM gets in the way. If you have 3 spare 5.25 drive bays, you can try mounting it there. Well, that's just my experience with the CM690II.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vdn20;14289124*
> It might depends on where you decide to mount it. In my case, the CM690II advanced, I was trying to mount it in the rear, but there was barely enough room for a push/pull setup. It was basically pushing on the pump itself. I don't know if different motherboards have different placements of the CPU, but for mine, it ran into that problem. For when tried to mount it right above the pump, there was just enough room for the corsair fan. For the other top fan location, the RAM gets in the way. If you have 3 spare 5.25 drive bays, you can try mounting it there. Well, that's just my experience with the CM690II.


If your up for it, you can modd the rear port to allow the tubes through. Then you can mount the bulk of the rad and fans, outside the case.

5.25 bays are great, thats where I have mine now.


----------



## vdn20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666;14289144*
> If your up for it, you can modd the rear port to allow the tubes through. Then you can mount the bulk of the rad and fans, outside the case.
> 
> 5.25 bays are great, thats where I have mine now.


What I had originally tried was to make a push/pull setup with a shroud. I had one of the fans on the outside, but then I had problems closing the lid of the case. The fan got in the way so I had to unscrew the fan to put on the lid, and one of the holes for the screw for the lid was blocked by the fan. It wouldn't be that big of a problem for me, but I'm upgrading my system when I have money for the parts. If I modded the rear port, I would probably run into the same problem. I also forgot to mention, I had used some fan silencers so that added just a little bit, so without it, it probably wouldn't be as tight as a fit or it would fit perfectly. I was actually planning to mounting it in the 5.25 drive bays in the end when I have everything I new for my new system and turn my old one into a server or a HTPC or something


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vdn20*


What I had originally tried was to make a push/pull setup with a shroud. I had one of the fans on the outside, *but then I had problems closing the lid of the case*. The fan got in the way so I had to unscrew the fan to put on the lid, and one of the holes for the screw for the lid was blocked by the fan. It wouldn't be that big of a problem for me, but I'm upgrading my system when I have money for the parts. If I modded the rear port, I would probably run into the same problem. I also forgot to mention, I had used some fan silencers so that added just a little bit, so without it, it probably wouldn't be as tight as a fit or it would fit perfectly. I was actually planning to mounting it in the 5.25 drive bays in the end when I have everything I new for my new system and turn my old one into a server or a HTPC or something


Now I remember why I moved it to the 5.25 bay









Ill have to re-assess my plan to place my H100 there now. I guess I can either modify the fan so the side panel closes or mod the top twin ports and place the rad there... why is nothing ever easy??


----------



## vdn20

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Now I remember why I moved it to the 5.25 bay









Ill have to re-assess my plan to place my H100 there now. I guess I can either modify the fan so the side panel closes or mod the top twin ports and place the rad there... why is nothing ever easy??










Because it's life, nothing comes easy and nothing makes sense, for the most part.

Forgot to ask, how did you mount it to your 5.25 bay? Just thinking in advance for when I do that.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vdn20*


Because it's life, nothing comes easy and nothing makes sense, for the most part.

Forgot to ask, how did you mount it to your 5.25 bay? Just thinking in advance for when I do that.


With..... wait for it.... zip ties!

Ive gone from UK 2000s to GT AP14s since this pic was taken, shrouds still in place









The zip ties are attached front and back to the bay for stability. Worked out really well actually. I spend a huge amount of time trying to come up with something more eloquent but nothing seemed to work.

Zip ties... a modders best friend


----------



## vdn20

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


With..... wait for it.... zip ties!

Ive gone from UK 2000s to GT AP14s since this pic was taken, shrouds still in place









The zip ties are attached front and back to the bay for stability. Worked out really well actually. I spend a huge amount of time trying to come up with something more eloquent but nothing seemed to work.

Zip ties... a modders best friend










Good to know. Is that fan controller sharing space with the fans or is it on its own? Come to think about it, won't it be a pain to take it apart to clean it every so often?


----------



## DeadShot_1.0

hey people this are my pictures of my build with the h70:


----------



## ltg2227

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DeadShot_1.0*


hey people this are my pictures of my build with the h70:


















































Is that 3rd pic from the top what they call using a "shroud" config? or is it a fan? Also what model of fans are they for your H70? I'm thinking about replacing my H70 stock fans. btw, nice setup!!


----------



## DeadShot_1.0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ltg2227*


Is that 3rd pic from the top what they call using a "shroud" config? or is it a fan? Also what model of fans are they for your H70? I'm thinking about replacing my H70 stock fans. btw, nice setup!!


yes that is a shroud, and if you can find some 38mm tick fan it's a must do. It help a lot with it. the fans are cm blade master and they are amazing they blow a lot of air. plus i suggest some yate loons are cheaper and effective, but the cm blade master they are a beauty and very good. they are ratted at at 3.90 static pressure and im guessing that that number is spot on, because as i sad before they move a hell lot of air. plus i made my fans to exhaust i might change them to intake to see if they make any difference. if you are going to make your h70 fans as exhaust make sure that you put a fan as exhaust in the drive bay. why? because it help to exhaust the heat of the ram plus 30% that the gpu may produce in the case. So that the fans of the h70 won't suck all the hot air.
hope this helps

note: if your wondering how did i mount the shroud with, it is possible to find in any DIY store some 8cm screws for the front, and for the back i used some 5cm screws they are a bit long thou but i managed to buy some thick rubber spacers in a DIY store too.


----------



## ltg2227

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DeadShot_1.0*


yes that is a shroud, and if you can find some 38mm tick fan it's a must do. It help a lot with it. the fans are cm blade master and they are amazing they blow a lot of air. plus i suggest some yate loons are cheaper and effective, but the cm blade master they are a beauty and very good. they are ratted at at 3.90 static pressure and im guessing that that number is spot on, because as i sad before they move a hell lot of air. plus i made my fans to exhaust i might change them to intake to see if they make any difference. if you are going to make your h70 fans as exhaust make sure that you put a fan as exhaust in the drive bay. why? because it help to exhaust the heat of the ram plus 30% that the gpu may produce in the case. So that the fans of the h70 won't suck all the hot air.
hope this helps


what do you mean about the 38mm tick fan? Is this the cm blade master you have? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103069

btw, i have my H70 fans as intake and they seem to do fine for me. here is my setup: 









on the top of my case( you can't see from this angle) are a 230mm fan(came with case) and 120mm fan blowing exhaust!!


----------



## DeadShot_1.0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ltg2227*


what do you mean about the 38mm tick fan? Is this the cm blade master you have? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103069

btw, i have my H70 fans as intake and they seem to do fine for me. here is my setup: 









on the top of my case( you can't see from this angle) are a 230mm fan(came with case) and 120mm fan blowing exhaust!!


yes that is the fan.

i was referring a 120mm*38mm fan i used a delta fan bought one from ebay that was faulty because they expensive. because a 38mm shroud is the best combo to use because it eliminate maybe 90% of the dead spots that the fan leaves when it is attached to the rad. i recommend you do put a shroud to your case put it outside the case with the fan like i did to fit better.

i made my fans as exhaust because i my ambient temps are a bit high so its better for me to exhaust but i might try it as intake to see if it makes and different. the fan in the drive bays it's not a must, just that it help exhaust a bit more the heat that all


----------



## lawrencendlw

Quote:



Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*


Ok went ahead and reseated the H50 even dismantled the push/pull setup and cleaned out the Rad. Ive never seen so much dust how I was able to get the temps I was seeing is just silly about half an inch on each side of the Rad....Not good!

Was quite pleased with the stock temps after cleaning all this out 
(idle 34 30 30 31) So I went for the 4ghz after several days benching etc All is stable! And have achieved my idle temps I had at 3.66 at 4ghz pretty much.

Max load now at 4ghz is 64 57 58 57

Fookin dust what a killer!

Cheers for the advice Ceadderman keep up the good work! + rep

Some pics to show










Love those san aces. Some of the best fans money can buy. I think they are the fans with the highest static pressure for how low dBS they are. I mean my Delta fans have higher static pressure but your are close and that's impressive considering that they have much lower CFM and MUCH MUCH lower dBS than my Delta's do. They are pretty much the best marriage of sound, CFM and static pressure that you can get from a fan. If I was worried about noise (which I'm obviously not since I'm using 2X 150 CFM Delta fans at 100% lol) then those would be the fans that I would get. I have been thinking about getting the Gentle typhoon AP-31's and connecting them to my fan controller as I have heard that they are screamer's.

I'm glad that you got your problem solved. You'd be surprised how much business I get ( I'm a computer and electronics engineer and I run my own little work from hone computer shop) because people never dust out their computers and just expect them to work forever. The worst case by far that I have seen was a client who's 2 year old desktop would turn on for a couple of minutes at the most and then just shut off instantly. I opened it up and there was literally 2 inches of dust on everything inside of the case. The dust in his CPU cooler was so densely packed that the fan wouldn't spin and I couldn't even get it to lose up with a high pressure compressor. I had to completely replace the cooler. I filled a complete kitchen trash bag (13 gallon) with the dust and I had to pack it in there several times. It was rather gross especially when you consider that dust is mostly composed of human and pet dead skin. I had to tax several showers before I felt clean lol. The guy never learned his lesson. He came back 6 months later with a similar problem even after I spent an hour or so explaining and demonstrating how to clean the dust out of his computer. I charged him double the second time and he still keeps coming back. I told him to bring it by monthly for a cleaning and now I have steady business from him lol. I just want to know how his house accumulates so much dust... On second thought, no I don't lol.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## clubfoot

Looks like the 100 is available for purchase in NA.

http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=61380&vpn=CWCH100&manufacture=Corsair

http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=8_135&item_id=039348


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadShot_1.0;14293129*
> hey people this are my pictures of my build with the h70:


Is that molex running a cable through your water hole port? lol. Is that for the fan outside?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vdn20;14290596*
> Good to know. Is that fan controller sharing space with the fans or is it on its own? Come to think about it, won't it be a pain to take it apart to clean it every so often?


The fan controller has a couple of mm clearance so its fine. Cleaning is just a matter of sniping the ties, unscrewing the fans and shrouds, cleaning the rad and then putting it back together again. Its about 15min work every few months.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadShot_1.0;14293129*
> hey people this are my pictures of my build with the h70


Nice setup you have there Deadshot


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666;14290536*
> With..... wait for it.... zip ties!
> 
> Ive gone from UK 2000s to GT AP14s since this pic was taken, shrouds still in place
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The zip ties are attached front and back to the bay for stability. Worked out really well actually. I spend a huge amount of time trying to come up with something more eloquent but nothing seemed to work.
> 
> Zip ties... a modders best friend


I have done the exact same thing and I have found to get the best temps this way, (39,36,35,35 [email protected]) just make sure to keep that setup free of dust I recently took apart my push/pull shrouded setup and was amazed at the amount of dust which had built up on the Rad. With 2x San ace H1011's **** builds up quick!

Im quite tempted by the new H100 but that would mean a whole new setup and ofc exhaust out the top.
Would be mean as hell with 4x 38mm San ace H1011 on that rad though....


----------



## Erper

got my h50...
will test it tomorrow


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd;14299406*
> I have done the exact same thing and I have found to get the best temps this way, (39,36,35,35 [email protected]) just make sure to keep that setup free of dust I recently took apart my push/pull shrouded setup and was amazed at the amount of dust which had built up on the Rad. With 2x San ace H1011's **** builds up quick!
> 
> Im quite tempted by the new H100 but that would mean a whole new setup and ofc exhaust out the top.
> Would be mean as hell with 4x 38mm San ace H1011 on that rad though....


Dust is a pain. I have my intakes covered with magnetic nylon dust covers atttached to the case itself. Man, they catch the dust. They are cleaned every week.

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=9_26_576


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


"Originally Posted by ltg2227 View Post
Also, under Fan Speed Monitor, for the H70, the CPU Fan Speed(Rad fans) are running at 1925rpm..."

That's in pair. So halve that and that is what your Radiator fans are running. Still respectable however.


Actually, 1925 is about right for the H70 fans without the resistor fitting added. You don't half the reading. Only one fan tac is sent to the board. Most splitters will only send one tac signal. (at least that's how mine is). They should drop to around 1600 with the resistors added.

For people interested in a little quieter computer:

Consider a fan controller, a motherboard that can control 3 pin fans, or PWM fans and a PWM fan splitter for your cpu_fan header on your motherboard.

Personally I don't see how anyone can be happy with CPU fans and case fans all running at 100% all the time. I have six case fans all controlled with a fan controller, and 2 x PWM fans on my H70 controlled by my motherboard BIOS. If I ran them all at 100% it would almost be as bad as a vacuum cleaner.

My system is no where near silent, but I can turn all my fans down to about 50% or lower of their full speed and still get pretty good cooling. Some controllers offer an even better bottom end (like the one Ceadderman is using). You can crank the fans up when gaming if you need to.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ocman*


Hi all, 
Are there any one here uses a H-70, H-60, H-80, or H-100 had problem using the cpu cooler with P5Q series mobo?
Thank you in advance!


Yes, I was using my H70 on a P5Q before I switched to my current board. I did have some problems with the BIOS not running the 120mm fans fast enough so I would get a CPU fan error on cold boot. My fans were only running at about 600 RPM which would generate an error (I am using PWM fans). However even with the error notification at start up it would still function without any further problems.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DeadShot_1.0*


hey people this are my pictures of my build with the h70:


Very nicely done. I like your case. Very clean wiring.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


Dust is a pain. I have my intakes covered with magnetic nylon dust covers atttached to the case itself. Man, they catch the dust. They are cleaned every week.


Agreed. I try and keep my case clean too. At least every two weeks. The dust filters keep all but the finest dust out of the case. I even installed one on a modded intake fan on the bottom of my case. Cleanest computer I've ever owned.


----------



## Goshred025

How are you guys running your pumps/fans. I connected the fan to the Cpu_fan, and the Pump on the case_fan1. I understand the pump needs to be running full tilt. .But if I run it full tilt on a case_fan header from my motherboard all my case fans would be running at 100%.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Goshred025*


How are you guys running your pumps/fans. I connected the fan to the Cpu_fan, and the Pump on the case_fan1. I understand the pump needs to be running full tilt. .But if I run it full tilt on a case_fan header from my motherboard all my case fans would be running at 100%.


Im the otherway around...

Pump on the CPU header and fans to other fan headers.

I use Speedfan to control the rpm of the fans.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Goshred025*


How are you guys running your pumps/fans. I connected the fan to the Cpu_fan, and the Pump on the case_fan1. I understand the pump needs to be running full tilt. .But if I run it full tilt on a case_fan header from my motherboard all my case fans would be running at 100%.


Use Speedfan to control the other fans?

My pump is connected to a 3-pin fan header, while my push/pull fans are connected to a PWM splitter, which are connected to my 4-pin PWM CPU fan header.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


Use Speedfan to control the other fans?

My pump is connected to a 3-pin fan header, while my push/pull fans are connected to a PWM splitter, which are connected to my 4-pin PWM CPU fan header.


@Mergatroid... This, I guess I should have been a bit more specific. I have a PWM Y splitter so my fans pair up and typically I've noticed that my 12SH fans doubled up their RPM in PC Probe II readings. My rpm was generally rolling pretty high. Well over 3K at 60% on the CPU header. Each one is rated at 2200rpm +/-.

Apologies didn't mean to word it in a confusing manner.









~Ceadder


----------



## Goshred025

Ok. So I've installed the H60, but the pump is making a loud sound, best described as a hard drive thinking. I'm assuming this is not normal as for the 1st minute it was running it was silent. Will this horrible noise go away, I've send my issue to corsair support as this sound does not seem normal. But what do you guys think, I've read on the forums some people say it goes away after an hour, while some does not and I should rma?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Goshred025*


Ok. So I've installed the H60, but the pump is making a loud sound, best described as a hard drive thinking. I'm assuming this is not normal as for the 1st minute it was running it was silent. Will this horrible noise go away, I've send my issue to corsair support as this sound does not seem normal. But what do you guys think, I've read on the forums some people say it goes away after an hour, while some does not and I should rma?


More than likely you have air trapped in the line someplace. You might have to move your Radiator around while tapping the lines with a pencil or try tipping your case in different directions while tapping the lines to get it to go away.

If it persists, you might have better luck by undoing the block giving the whole unit a shaking and make sure your Radiator lines are at the bottom instead of at the top. Air travels up not down in liquid. If it's already that way then just make sure you return it as it was and make sure to change the TIM before putting it back onto the CPU. If the TIM is still fresh, use a Razor blade scrape off what you can to reapply after rolling into a ball. If that ball is not the size of a reasonable sized pea then you will need to replace it with fresh TIM.

You don't want to mix it with fresh TIM even if it's the same brand type(Shin Etsu G751) because air can get trapped between the two substances which can affect the temps just as easily as air trapped in the lines.

Hope this helps and welcome to the Hydro Series Club.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kokin

With noise, you also have to make sure all 4 screws for the block are screwed in all the way or else the little offset can make vibrations and noise from the pump. Make sure you push towards the screwhead, but don't force it if it doesn't want to go any further.


----------



## Erper

since im new to watercooling ...
i want to ask...
do i have to watch out for coolant in h50 and replace it by time..


----------



## Munkypoo7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erper*


since im new to watercooling ...
i want to ask...
do i have to watch out for coolant in h50 and replace it by time..


Nope, that's somewhat the beauty of the system, it's fully sealed so no maintenance is required


----------



## Erper

Is there any liquid in it ... how is is possible that with high heat water is not lost


----------



## TechSilver13

New to the forum but been around the OC'ing scene for a good while now. I was looking for a site with a lot of info and and good community and after a ton of google searches about the 2600k it always led me to this site so I went ahead and signed up! Love this cooler by the way! I had the cooler master 212+ and bought this to try it out (and I got it for 45 bucks at best buy). This is WAY cooler than my 212 at load and the same idle temps so I am extremely happy.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Nethermir

welcome to the club! i was also using 212+ but had to switch to h60 for ram clearance. temps are almost identical but i still like it. looks neat and clean


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erper*


Is there any liquid in it ... how is is possible that with high heat water is not lost


It's a completely sealed loop, there would be no place for the coolant to go to. Not to mention your processor shouldn't even be reaching close to the boiling point, so it will be constantly in liquid form.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Skyler2Dope*


New to the forum but been around the OC'ing scene for a good while now. I was looking for a site with a lot of info and and good community and after a ton of google searches about the 2600k it always led me to this site so I went ahead and signed up! Love this cooler by the way! I had the cooler master 212+ and bought this to try it out (and I got it for 45 bucks at best buy). This is WAY cooler than my 212 at load and the same idle temps so I am extremely happy.


Welcome to OCN!

You might find better load temps if you do a pull configuration, though if you're happy with your current temps, it might not be worth the hassle of switching for a 1-2C difference in load temps. Great looking setup though, it is very clean.


----------



## DeadShot_1.0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];14297521*
> Is that molex running a cable through your water hole port? lol. Is that for the fan outside?


its the pwm fan cable, well there wasn't any other way to pass it through at least the case it had the holes for water cooling tubes.


----------



## DeadShot_1.0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullrespect;14248607*
> heh, I've made the same decision with 2 x CM Blade Master for my H70. I'll pick them up on Tuesday, hoping for the best
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Despite this enthusiasm, I really don't think that the rated static pressure (3.90mm) on those Blade Masters are for real. Maybe something near 3.00mm would be more accurate, idk ... 3.90mm is pretty high !


hey i just received the fan yesterday, and i think that 3.9mm is spot because they move a lot of air and im not even running them at full speed


----------



## lawrencendlw

CFM is how much air they move. Static pressure is how much of that gets pushed through radiator fins.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk!
Nathan


----------



## Erper

does it matter where pipes r turned on rad, up or down cause i put mine down, and block on cpu, my pipes are on right side?


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper;14309033*
> does it matter where pipes r turned on rad, up or down cause i put mine down, and block on cpu, my pipes are on right side?


If they're on the top, they can tend to pick up air bubbles. Side is probably the safest.


----------



## Erper

how did you positioned them

my temps:


----------



## Munkypoo7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erper;14309033*
> does it matter where pipes r turned on rad, up or down cause i put mine down, and block on cpu, my pipes are on right side?


Makes absolutely no difference. Just set it up in whichever way it's more aesthetically pleasing.









Edit: I have them set up.. upwards on the Rad, as in the tubes come out of the top... I don't like how it looks coming from the bottom of the rad, just meh.. nitpicking


----------



## Erper

id say that mine, if i bend pipes, would be upwards and on rad and on cpu...


----------



## GoldenGeisha

Hi Guys,

i'm about to buy an H60.
i'm planning to OC my i5 2500K to 4.2-4.5Ghz.
Now i've noticed that the H60 is not that popular.
Here in Belgium the H60 is about 65€.
Is there a better option than the H60 within the same price range?


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoldenGeisha*


Hi Guys,

i'm about to buy an H60.
i'm planning to OC my i5 2500K to 4.2-4.5Ghz.
Now i've noticed that the H60 is not that popular.
Here in Belgium the H60 is about 65â‚¬.
Is there a better option than the H60 within the same price range?


The H60 is very popular, but is much newer than the H50 and H70, and hasn't been around for as long, which is why there aren't as many threads on it.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoldenGeisha*


Hi Guys,

i'm about to buy an H60.
i'm planning to OC my i5 2500K to 4.2-4.5Ghz.
Now i've noticed that the H60 is not that popular.
Here in Belgium the H60 is about 65€.
Is there a better option than the H60 within the same price range?


I would stick with the H60. I love mine!

It's pretty popular, this thread is just stuck to being called the H50/H70 club even though it's for the H50/60/70/80/100 as well.


----------



## Ceadderman

I think that the title of the thread can be changed.

Edit post > Advanced > Title > Submit.

I can change the title of any thread I start so I'm pretty sure OP can change it here too.









~Ceadder


----------



## TechSilver13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


It's a completely sealed loop, there would be no place for the coolant to go to. Not to mention your processor shouldn't even be reaching close to the boiling point, so it will be constantly in liquid form.

Welcome to OCN!

You might find better load temps if you do a pull configuration, though if you're happy with your current temps, it might not be worth the hassle of switching for a 1-2C difference in load temps. Great looking setup though, it is very clean.










I have two new Thermaltake fans on the way so I can do a push pull config. They are 97 CFM so I think my load temps will for sure go down. Cant wait to get them in!


----------



## ltg2227

i want some opinions on 2 aftermarket fans for my H70. I want to add either a 38mm or 50mm(2 gutted fans) shroud. I use push/pull config. intake! one suggestion i got was this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103069

but i'm looking at these as well:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185054

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213005

any other suggestions is welcome! here is my sig rig:









*note: there is a 230mm fan and a 120mm on top as exhaust.


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ltg2227;14317163*
> i want some opinions on 2 aftermarket fans for my H70. I want to add either a 38mm or 50mm(2 gutted fans) shroud. I use push/pull config. intake! one suggestion i got was this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103069
> 
> but i'm looking at these as well:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185054
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213005
> 
> any other suggestions is welcome! here is my sig rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *note: there is a 230mm fan and a 120mm on top as exhaust.


The Deltas would be the best (if you can stand the noise) and I think a 38mm shroud wuold be enough either IMHO


----------



## GoldenGeisha

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*


The H60 is very popular, but is much newer than the H50 and H70, and hasn't been around for as long, which is why there aren't as many threads on it.


I've done some research and there are alot of reviews and comparisons of the H60 and it's a great cooler for it's price!
Actually no real competition imho.

Ordered one today and i'll be getting it on thursday!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

My H60 is great. I'm thinking about setting it up as an intake though because when I game and the 580's start heating up my CPU temps go up...


----------



## GoldenGeisha

You've got a good point.
I'm considering this to.
I've read that using the fan of the H60 as an intake can decrease temps by 5Â°C (don't know much about F lol)


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


...I have a PWM Y splitter so my fans pair up and typically I've noticed that my 12SH fans doubled up their RPM in PC Probe II readings. My rpm was generally rolling pretty high. Well over 3K at 60% on the CPU header. Each one is rated at 2200rpm +/-....


Does your splitter remove one of the tac signals? If so, one fan should have 3 wires and the other 4. If it's sending two tac signals that may be why you're getting erroneous readings. If the splitter is removing one of the tac signals then it's a little confusing as to why your system is not reporting the correct RMP.

Anyone else having problems with server errors today?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


...I have a PWM Y splitter so my fans pair up and typically I've noticed that my 12SH fans doubled up their RPM in PC Probe II readings. My rpm was generally rolling pretty high. Well over 3K at 60% on the CPU header. Each one is rated at 2200rpm +/-....


Does your splitter remove one of the tac signals? If so, one fan should have 3 wires and the other 4. If it's sending two tac signals that may be why you're getting erroneous readings. If the splitter is removing one of the tac signals then it's a little confusing as to why your system is not reporting the correct RMP.

Anyone else having problems with server errors today?

BTW, there is an H80 performance thread here:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ce-thread.html

Someone stole our thunder. Why they started a new thread when one already existed I have no idea.

Sorry about the double post guys, as I mentioned I'm getting all these server errors.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;14321781*
> Does your splitter remove one of the tac signals? If so, one fan should have 3 wires and the other 4. If it's sending two tac signals that may be why you're getting erroneous readings. If the splitter is removing one of the tac signals then it's a little confusing as to why your system is not reporting the correct RMP.
> 
> Anyone else having problems with server errors today?


My splitter has 4-pins for both connecters, so I get the right reading, but sometimes it gets weird readings like 700+RPM instead of 2000+RPM when it's at full speed.

I get server errors time to time as well (maybe once every week or two), though none in the last few days.


----------



## TMallory

We should change the title to include all H-series coolers. I feel left out with my H80


----------



## ltg2227

well, i narrowed my choice for H70 replacement fans down to these two:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213005
or
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185054

Now, i know the Delta's are better but the Delta's cost about $14.00 USD more. I wonder how much cooling difference there would be for $14.00?? In other words, if there is only a 1 or 2 degree difference i'll go with the cheaper Ultra Kaze but if it's like 5 degrees or better then it might be worth spending the extra cash correct for the Delta's correct??


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ltg2227;14326891*
> well, i narrowed my choice for H70 replacement fans down to these two:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213005
> or
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185054
> 
> Now, i know the Delta's are better but the Delta's cost about $14.00 USD more. I wonder how much cooling difference there would be for $14.00?? In other words, if there is only a 1 or 2 degree difference i'll go with the cheaper Ultra Kaze but if it's like 5 degrees or better then it might be worth spending the extra cash correct for the Delta's correct??


Than get those Ultra Kaze, since they're rated for even more cfm than the Delta's, I have one 2000rpm and it runs just fine. Don't know how it lasts (it's a regular sleeve bearing) and, of course, the 3000's would make some extra noise


----------



## Ceadderman

My splitter has 8 wires in it. It's PWM after all.







Occasionally I did receiver erroneous readings but to the positive than the negative aspect. Mostly with reporting software like HW Monitor. I'd open that sucker up and it would report that I was running well over 100k rpm over and above what the true reading should have been.







<---push/pull reading









Only time I get 404 Errors is when my Network is being a slug. I've seen them in the advertisements but I'm assuming that the ad generators network is being a slug too.









As far as the Fan suggestions go... if you're going to run a 38mm fan shroud AND 38mm fan I would measure the Rad thickness and add 86mm(2). That's a LOT of real estate to sacrifice just to run P/P. Even in a Full Tower HAF case. I would suggest 38mm +50mm. That being shroud and PP fans. Get something like CM Excalibur or Yate Loon Medium or High Speed Silents. You can get the YLs' cheap enough to buy both the Meds and Highs and still have money left over above buying UKs',GTs' or many of the other high dollar fans.

They suggest not running them horizontally since they're sleeved bearings, but that is exactly how I run mine and they've never complained slacked or come apart at the seams.









I ran my P/P in the ceiling of my 932 with just enough room to spare to keep four 5.25 bays for use. The 38mm shroud will make it so only 3 can be used, but it's the perfect place in the 932 to draw cool air in and to expel the hot air out. It can get rather warm when you're Folding.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin;14326517*
> My splitter has 4-pins for both connecters, so I get the right reading, but sometimes it gets weird readings like 700+RPM instead of 2000+RPM when it's at full speed.
> 
> I get server errors time to time as well (maybe once every week or two), though none in the last few days.


PWM fan splitters should have only one tac wire going to one fan. If they have four wires going to all the fans then they have been built incorrectly.

Motherboard headers and fan controllers are made to interpret the tac signal from one fan, not multiple fans. If there are more than one tac signal the controller will get confused. I based the design of the one I made from commercial products like this:

http://usb.brando.com/pwm-fan-splitter-cable_p01520c032d015.html

That is a 3 fan splitter, and as you can see it has only one tac wire on the CPU_FAN connector (and three PWM signal wires). On the three actual fan connectors, you can see only one of them has all four wires. The other two are missing the tac wire so as not to confuse the monitoring device with multiple tac signals.

Here is the GELID splitter I bought for the H50 in another computer:

http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/PID-MX31957%28ME%29.aspx

It also only uses three wires to one fan.

Here is another example:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/image/10350/cab-183_3.jpg/cab-183/Akasa_PWM_Splitter_-_Smart_Fan_Cable_AK-CB002.html

And another:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/image/10350/cab-183_2.jpg/cab-183/Akasa_PWM_Splitter_-_Smart_Fan_Cable_AK-CB002.html

Here is an example of a person who bought a PWM fan splitter that was wired incorrectly:

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148577

Here is a diagram of the splitter I made for my H70:










As you can see, one tac signal (yellow to CPU Header).

Anyone who's using a PWM splitter and is getting erroneous RPM readings should check to make sure there is only one tac wire coming from the fans. It's usually green on a commercially made splitter. If there are multiple tac wires, remove the wire from all the fan connectors except for one. Just make sure you check a wiring diagram before cutting the wires.

Hey, has anyone tried this TIM:

http://www.coollaboratory.com/en/produkte/liquid-ultra/

I'm hearing some pretty amazing claims about temp drops. Some people are saying after applying this to their video cards they have seen a 17c to 20c drop in temps.

I'm trying to find a local place to order me some right now.


----------



## Ceadderman

Throw out all your FrozenCPU links. Invalid. We're talking about a Y Splitter. And you can set those up the way your Gelid is or keep 8 wires in std PWM configuration as long as your Ground wire and your Green wires are Piggy backed.

As I've stated before, you take the RPM listed and /2. You need the PWM for both connectors IF you intend to use PWM fans. You do not have to run PWM specifically. I ran std LED fans in mine and I've kept it because it's rather useful to have the ability to connect two PWM to one header. You board reads and commands them when plugged into PWM just as though they were 3 pin connectors. PWM doesn't have a dang thing to do with running the MoBo other than the CPU header needing a fan connected there to POST.

Also Merg I know you mean well but you put up a diagram of Molex powered splitter. In this instance you may be correct as the load sent to the fans to be connected there is constant. The load sent to fans on MainBoard headers is not, unless you set them to ignore.









Oh yes ALSO jsut to make things a bit clearer. In the diagram the reason there are no power connections to PWM is because there is no need for them since Molex is taking care of that. If you notice the Yellow/Blue wires still go to the same places in the 4 pin connectors. If you were to run Power from Molex AND power from MoBo you would have a problem and in fairly short order.









Haven't used that TIM, but spreading it with a brush? No thanks I'll stick to my G751 and let my CPU block spread it. No burn in time either.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I have that Gelid Y-splitter for my Silent 12 PWM's on my H60...


----------



## GoldenGeisha

i'll be getting my H60 in a few days.
And i have an installation question.

In the video the guy is telling that the fan 'draws in' cooled air.
My front fan does the same. I'm somewhat concerned about the airflow in my case.
How can i maintain a good airflow?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenGeisha;14333378*
> i'll be getting my H60 in a few days.
> And i have an installation question.
> 
> In the video the guy is telling that the fan 'draws in' cooled air.
> My front fan does the same. I'm somewhat concerned about the airflow in my case.
> How can i maintain a good airflow?


The pull fan on the rad may very well be drawing in cooler air but by the time it goes through your rad... it wont be very cool. This is the optimal configuration for the H series coolers.

I'd suggest you'll be okay leaving your front case fan as is. It all balances out in the end.


----------



## Kokin

Jesus Mergatroid, that was a lot of writing to read. There was no need to write a whole ton of things to explain the simple concept of how splitters work. I simply have 2 tac signals being sent to the header. It does not affect the way they work though, both run at around the same speed.

I have a PWM Y-splitter that supports 2 PWM fans, hence 8pins going to a 4-pin fan header. The "wrong" type as you mentioned.

Linky

I'm kind of sad that when I went to check what I had, my top fan accidentally scraped a part of the splitter and caused two threads of the sleeving to come loose. sad face

That Liquid Ultra TIM looks interesting though previous threads about it scare me off. Linky


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenGeisha;14333378*
> Youtube installation by Corsair
> 
> i'll be getting my H60 in a few days.
> And i have an installation question.
> 
> In the video the guy is telling that the fan 'draws in' cooled air.
> My front fan does the same. I'm somewhat concerned about the airflow in my case.
> How can i maintain a good airflow?


Corsair recommends the radiator intake air from outside the case because its always going to be cooler than the air inside the case getting warmed up by everything. This, of course, dumps more warm air into the case but if you have a decent exhaust fan in the top (right above the H60) you should be fine.

I run my H60 as an exhaust for aesthetic reasons and it can lose a lot of efficiency if my GPU's are running hot....


----------



## linkin93

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1075054-h60-intake-exhaust-ap15s-testing-results.html

Have a look. Testing with push/pull in top rear. Intake vs. exhaust. Note it's for the top rear position only. Top front or just top, or bottom front might make exhaust a better option. But for top rear, intake is best.


----------



## Brutos

I installed a H80 a few days ago i was very impressed with the performance it keeps my 950 at stock 28c and at 4.00 its at 33 at 1.32v

Am amazed am using two AP-15's in push/ pull intake. I also have two Akasa viper i tested them and they gave me even better performance.


----------



## GoldenGeisha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric;14338267*
> Corsair recommends the radiator intake air from outside the case because its always going to be cooler than the air inside the case getting warmed up by everything. This, of course, dumps more warm air into the case but if you have a decent exhaust fan in the top (right above the H60) you should be fine.
> 
> I run my H60 as an exhaust for aesthetic reasons and it can lose a lot of efficiency if my GPU's are running hot....


That's the problem.
I do not have an exhaust in the top.
And with my crossfire setup things can get very warm inside my case.

But i'll probably figure something out. I'll be using the fan from the corsair and my existing rear fan will be placed somewere on the top.

I have a cooler master 690 II which is perforated all over the place so i should be good!


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenGeisha;14339221*
> That's the problem.
> I do not have an exhaust in the top.
> And with my crossfire setup things can get very warm inside my case.
> 
> But i'll probably figure something out. I'll be using the fan from the corsair and my existing rear fan will be placed somewere on the top.
> 
> I have a cooler master 690 II which is perforated all over the place so i should be good!


I would suggest putting it as intake on top and having the rear exhaust take out the heat. You can always buy some cheap Yate Loons elsewhere for your rad and case fan needs.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkin93;14338517*
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1075054-h60-intake-exhaust-ap15s-testing-results.html
> 
> Have a look. Testing with push/pull in top rear. Intake vs. exhaust. Note it's for the top rear position only. Top front or just top, or bottom front might make exhaust a better option. But for top rear, intake is best.


1st) Thank you for doing that test. It's confirmed my suspicions that Exhaust isn't all that different from Intake.

2nd) A good portion of us are running full cover GPU cards, which dump hot air out the back. So imho, Intake is probably not recommended in this configuration.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## linkin93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14340717*
> 1st) Thank you for doing that test. It's confirmed my suspicions that Exhaust isn't all that different from Intake.
> 
> 2nd) A good portion of us are running full cover GPU cards, which dump hot air out the back. So imho, Intake is probably not recommended in this configuration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Good point, but there should be enough space between the slots and the top rear fan to get cooler air. Hot air expands up and it also expand outwards and cools down from the movement


----------



## Ivan TSI

Hi, i have been using a H50 since last november and today decided to put it as exhaust ( have been using it as intake w/ p&p gt ap15 and a shroud) and i have seen a ~7C increase in temp and i would like to know how much improvement i should see switching to a H70?


----------



## [email protected]

I always perfer exhaust cuz i seem to have problems with intake if it's placed behind by my video card. Sure intake is amazing for front of the case but still i like to have heat escape the case. As long you have regular right air flow then you can just have something to regulate where you want it to be.

I always had it exhaust and loved it. I'm still leaning towards to try the H100 so bad. In good time i will.


----------



## Kokin

I really want to see the H100 benchmarks, so hopefully we don't have to wait long. Though I'd rather go with the XSPC RS240/RS360 for the price of an H100. If I can score a job, as I have Fridays off this semester, I'd love to save up for a Rasa kit and maybe a better WCing case.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin;14348958*
> I really want to see the H100 benchmarks, so hopefully we don't have to wait long. Though I'd rather go with the XSPC RS240/RS360 for the price of an H100. If I can score a job, as I have Fridays off this semester, I'd love to save up for a Rasa kit and maybe a better WCing case.


same here, if it gives a better performance than the h80 then ill take h100. otherwise, i will probably jump to xspc rs240....but then again, h100 have almost zero maintenance needed. im torn between the two


----------



## braindrain

This review was linked on some other page.
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2011/07/26/corsair_h100_extreme_perf_liquid_cpu_cooler_review
Only comes out here next month, not that I have the cash right now anyway. lol


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindrain;14355192*
> This review was linked on some other page.
> http://www.hardocp.com/article/2011/07/26/corsair_h100_extreme_perf_liquid_cpu_cooler_review
> Only comes out here next month, not that I have the cash right now anyway. lol


Looks impressive. Unfortunately, would take way too much case modding to get it to fit. Will definitely keep it in mind for my next build.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindrain;14355192*
> This review was linked on some other page.
> http://www.hardocp.com/article/2011/07/26/corsair_h100_extreme_perf_liquid_cpu_cooler_review
> Only comes out here next month, not that I have the cash right now anyway. lol


Interesting results. The prices will most likely go down by the end of the year, so it would be a decent buy at say $80-$100. I'd still rather buy the XSPC RS240 kit for $5 more, even if it meant more maintenance needed.


----------



## TechSilver13

I bought two thermaltake fans for my H50 and they are 2500 RPM/97CFM. They keep my CPU on average at 71 degrees Celsius at 4.82GHz/1.424v full load for over an hour prime95 on my 2600k. I have seen an 11 to 13 degree difference with the new fans (before I had one push and was hitting 82 to 84 degrees on my hottest cores. I am impressed BUT I want to know if the H80 can make these even lower...like say closer to the HIGH 50's or very low 60's. What do you guys think?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin;14337167*
> I have a PWM Y-splitter that supports 2 PWM fans, hence 8pins going to a 4-pin fan header. The "wrong" type as you mentioned.
> 
> Linky
> 
> That Liquid Ultra TIM looks interesting though previous threads about it scare me off. Linky


Ouch about your fan.

I'm just trying to point out that if you allow both tac signals from 2 fans to connect to one fan controller header, you can end up with incorrect RPM readings.

The picture of the splitter you linked to doesn't show all the wires connecting each end, however the splitters I linked to do show exactly how many wires are on each end.

Only one person in that thread has used Liquid Ultra, and he says he likes it. Everyone else is talking about other TIM or older versions from the same company. The manufacturer claims Liquid Ultra removes easily but is only good for copper blocks as it may react with aluminum. Someone mentions you may require a lap of your copper plate because the TIM is very thin. I'd still be willing to give it a try.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14331856*
> Also Merg I know you mean well but you put up a diagram of Molex powered splitter.


For purposes of this discussion, we could completely ignore the 12V line in a PWM system. DC load is not an issue here because we are discussing the control of the fans, not the powering of the fans which is why I included both types of PWM splitter in the links. Where the power to run the fans is coming from is irrelevant unless you are overdrawing the power rating of the fan header. It is the PWM signal that controls the RPM of a PWM fan in a PWM circuit. The point here is valid no matter where the power is coming from.

As far as I know, if you connect a PWM fan to a motherboard, the PWM signal is modulated to control the RPM of the fan, and the 12V is constant. This may not be true of 3 pin fans since they can only be controlled by varying the 12V line, but it is true of PWM fans.

The system reads the tac pulses to determine how fast the PWM fan is running (same for 3 pin fans). If you add two tac signals together by tying them both to the same line, you can end up with multiple pulses and if the fans are not running at the same RPM they will not be in sync so there is no way for the system to determine which pulse is from which fan.

The solution to this problem is to remove all but one of the tac signals. This way, the "primary" fan will report to the system and, based that tac signal, the system will issue a PWM signal that can be used to control multiple fans. If all the fans are the same model, they should all be running at approximately the same RPM based on the Primary Fan Tac signal. It doesn't matter if it's a single pair splitter or triple or quad splitter.

As far as I know PWM controllers cannot determine the number of fans on a circuit. I may be wrong on this point, and if I am then link away by all means. However, the way all those PWM splitters work that I linked to supports my argument.

I'm sorry if I seem long winded, but it seems a very basic issue to me. If I've been seeing PWM wrong for all this time I would like to know about it. However, if people understand what I am pointing out then they can use multiple fans on one PWM line and not worry about erroneous RPM readings from multiple tac signals.

Note. I am not saying you can't control a 4 pin PWM fan by varying the 12V, I'm saying in a true PWM system it's the PWM signal doing the controlling, not the 12V line.

I am also not saying you have to run PWM specifically, but we were talking about PWM (although the single tac signal rule should apply to any splitter, even 3 pin).

Nor am I saying that PWM has anything to do with running the motherboard. It runs PWM fans on the PWM fan connectors and that's all it does.

By this same reasoning the splitter on the H70 only has two wires going to one of the fans. It is leaving out one tac signal to prevent erroneous RPM readings. Therefor the 1900 RPM reading on the H70 fans is correct (which is what the stock fans are rated for).


----------



## Ceadderman

I miss Smurf's Wisdom regarding fans.









Board is going to read and multiply how many ever fans there are by the number of fans. So if you have two 2k fans going at full rated speed they would show up at 4k. It's up to me to determine if they are running the correct speed or not by dividing by 2. For every fan added the multiplier/divisor increases by one. Since the headers on my board are not rated for more than 18w each I'm limited by 18w/6w. So max it seems should be 3 fans per header. For LED fans this is perfectly acceptable.

Only having one PWM on my board, I cannot say with all certainty that this applies to PWM as well. I can only reasonably assume that RPM would be read by the board in the same manner and it's up to the user to know their rated speeds and do the math to figure out if the fans are working correctly or not.

This of course doesn't take into account for lower grade Motherboards and controllers. If you have say an Entry level board, it's not going to work as well as an Enthusiast variant board like the Crosshair or the Rampage etc. I would think though that if you limit your CPU header to 2 fans, that the same rules apply. Although there are quite a few boards that limit the header to 8w or less, only allowing one fan per header. Which is probably why there are Molex powered PWM splitters.









I can be wrong but I'm just relaying my experience on the issue.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Nightz2k

OK, back in the club. Had an H50 awhile back on my old build.









Got an H70 _(bought from OCN member)_ in this build, seems to hold up pretty well so far. I'm most likely getting new fans when I get the chance, for now it's just to get it up and running.

I know the Silver Arrow I had installed before was better, but it was a bit too tall for my case and I prefer the clean look of Corsair's Hydro series anyway.

_(Aside from dust, I live in the desert afterall)_


----------



## ltg2227

i was wondering if anyone who has an H70 with a shroud setup could post some pics along with if it is intake or exhaust. i'm getting my Ultra Kaze fans today and want some ideas on a setup, or if it is even worth having a shroud config. in the first place. Thinking about using 2 old 120x25mm fans as shrouds.


----------



## DeadShot_1.0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ltg2227;14364380*
> i was wondering if anyone who has an H70 with a shroud setup could post some pics along with if it is intake or exhaust. i'm getting my Ultra Kaze fans today and want some ideas on a setup, or if it is even worth having a shroud config. in the first place. Thinking about using 2 old 120x25mm fans as shrouds.


its worth it to use a shroud copnfiguration if you wnt to see my h70 with the shroud visit the below link in the signature or just go to this *link*


----------



## jnamon83

Just a little something I thought I would share. I purchased an h50 last year for my rig because it was running way too hot on stock cooler and after installing the h50 it was a lot more stable. I upgraded my rig right before christmas, and after time I started seeing high temps on my amd phenom II x4 965. Even at stock settings it was idling between 36 and 40 degrees. I tried cleaning, reseating, changing thermal paste, changing fans, but nothing seemed to help much.

I recently bought another H50 from Best Buy for $40, even sweeter since I had a $20 gift card BB had given me because of a non related mix up. I had planned to just keep this around for the future, but decided this weekend to try switching them out.

New pump and radiator, same fans (gentle typhoons) and power configuration. My 965 now idles at 26-30 degrees. That is a 10+ degree drop.

I've emailed corsair about it, hoping they will let me RMA it. I'm a lot happier with these temps though.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jnamon83;14369166*
> Just a little something I thought I would share. I purchased an h50 last year for my rig because it was running way too hot on stock cooler and after installing the h50 it was a lot more stable. I upgraded my rig right before christmas, and after time I started seeing high temps on my amd phenom II x4 965. Even at stock settings it was idling between 36 and 40 degrees. I tried cleaning, reseating, changing thermal paste, changing fans, but nothing seemed to help much.
> 
> I recently bought another H50 from Best Buy for $40, even sweeter since I had a $20 gift card BB had given me because of a non related mix up. I had planned to just keep this around for the future, but decided this weekend to try switching them out.
> 
> New pump and radiator, same fans (gentle typhoons) and power configuration. My 965 now idles at 26-30 degrees. That is a 10+ degree drop.
> 
> I've emailed corsair about it, hoping they will let me RMA it. I'm a lot happier with these temps though.


My lapped 955 Idled @ 29-31c. I don't see how you can expect better than that and expect Corsair to RMA something that obviously works.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## jnamon83

Quote:



My lapped 955 Idled @ 29-31c. I don't see how you can expect better than that and expect Corsair to RMA something that obviously works.


Because I have 2 of the exact same product under the exact same conditions and one is performing 10+ degrees worse than the other? For a CPU cooler that indicates that it is not working properly.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jnamon83;14370052*
> Because I have 2 of the exact same product under the exact same conditions and one is performing 10+ degrees worse than the other? For a CPU cooler that indicates that it is not working properly.


Aha, I understand now. You weren't completely clear on that bit for whatever reason I thought you bought one ran it, got off it, parted ways with it and got another one.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## evilsearat

Good day Hydro aficionados!
Little question for you:
Just this past Thursday I installed a H50 into my case. Less than a week later, unfortunately, my motherboard kicked the bucket and needs to go. I'll be transplanting everything tomorrow afternoon. My question is this... will I need to reapply the thermal paste to the water block, or do you suppose it's still on there well enough to just quickly remove the block, transplant, and replace once on the new mobo?


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *evilsearat*


Good day Hydro aficionados!
Little question for you:
Just this past Thursday I installed a H50 into my case. Less than a week later, unfortunately, my motherboard kicked the bucket and needs to go. I'll be transplanting everything tomorrow afternoon. My question is this... will I need to reapply the thermal paste to the water block, or do you suppose it's still on there well enough to just quickly remove the block, transplant, and replace once on the new mobo?


I had a similar problem with my H60. I moved the chip and the cooler from one to another after just two weeks use. The temps are still the same. So basically, yes it's fine if you move it since it's only been a week.


----------



## evilsearat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*


I had a similar problem with my H60. I moved the chip and the cooler from one to another after just two weeks use. The temps are still the same. So basically, yes it's fine if you move it since it's only been a week.


Cool beans. I'm lazy and didn't want to go out and get any more. Thanks.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I miss Smurf's Wisdom regarding fans.









Board is going to read and multiply how many ever fans there are by the number of fans. So if you have two 2k fans going at full rated speed they would show up at 4k. It's up to me to determine if they are running the correct speed or not by dividing by 2. For every fan added the multiplier/divisor increases by one. Since the headers on my board are not rated for more than 18w each I'm limited by 18w/6w. So max it seems should be 3 fans per header. For LED fans this is perfectly acceptable.

Only having one PWM on my board, I cannot say with all certainty that this applies to PWM as well. I can only reasonably assume that RPM would be read by the board in the same manner and it's up to the user to know their rated speeds and do the math to figure out if the fans are working correctly or not.

This of course doesn't take into account for lower grade Motherboards and controllers. If you have say an Entry level board, it's not going to work as well as an Enthusiast variant board like the Crosshair or the Rampage etc. I would think though that if you limit your CPU header to 2 fans, that the same rules apply. Although there are quite a few boards that limit the header to 8w or less, only allowing one fan per header. Which is probably why there are Molex powered PWM splitters.









I can be wrong but I'm just relaying my experience on the issue.









~Ceadder










I was discussing the very idea with a friend of mine yesterday. The idea that two 2K fans will show up as 4K RPM if you keep both TAC wires connected.

I have to ask why? The fans are not in sync, so the pulses will not always show up at the same moment on a time scale. At some times, two pulses may overlap each other and only be counted as one pulse. In this case, you will not get 2K RPM and you will not get 4K RPM either because the pulses are erroneous.

But whatever. I am sure I know how PWM works and exactly how the TAC signals interact with the system to supply RPM readings. Actually, this isn't even a PWM issue since all fans with a TAC report to the controller the same way. This is first year stuff. Obviously if a controller is only designed to read one TAC signal, adding another will confuse it. If the two signals are not in sync, there is no guarantee you will get a double reading. Adding more fans will also not guarantee you get multiples of the correct RPM because they are not in sync and out of phase.

For TAC reporting, sync and phase are everything. If you could make all the fans sync with each other at a different phase then you could keep track of multiple fans RPMs and your /2 theory would be right. However, since there is no method to keep the TAC pulses in sync with each other and force them to stay out of phase by a constant degree, you will get different incorrect readings.

I will stop rambling about it now. I don't think there's any point.

However, if anyone is getting the wrong reading on fans using a splitter, I suggest removing the excess TAC wire as it will correct the problem.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jnamon83*


New pump and radiator, same fans (gentle typhoons) and power configuration. My 965 now idles at 26-30 degrees. That is a 10+ degree drop.

I've emailed corsair about it, hoping they will let me RMA it. I'm a lot happier with these temps though.


If I were you, I would document the temp with your new H50 (screen shots of speed fan, cpuz and whatever else you want under load), and then reinstall your old H50 and do the exact same test and screenshot. If you can prove the first H50 wasn't working properly, and it's still under warranty, I don't see why they would turn you down. Unless they can come up with a legit reason why a new H50 should work better than a new H50 1 year ago. If you can show a 10c difference between the two coolers I personally would give you the benefit of the doubt. I would double check by reinstalling the old cooler again.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *evilsearat*


Cool beans. I'm lazy and didn't want to go out and get any more. Thanks.


Make sure you scrape it together and reapply it. Don't just swap the cooler over to the new chip.


----------



## evilsearat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*


If I were you, I would document the temp with your new H50 (screen shots of speed fan, cpuz and whatever else you want under load), and then reinstall your old H50 and do the exact same test and screenshot. If you can prove the first H50 wasn't working properly, and it's still under warranty, I don't see why they would turn you down. Unless they can come up with a legit reason why a new H50 should work better than a new H50 1 year ago. If you can show a 10c difference between the two coolers I personally would give you the benefit of the doubt. I would double check by reinstalling the old cooler again.

Make sure you scrape it together and reapply it. Don't just swap the cooler over to the new chip.


Just because I noticed... I'm actually seeing idle temperatures of exactly 36c on my CPU as well, or I was for the week that it was all working. Do you suppose I could be having a similar issue? I guess I'll know after I reseat/reapply on the new board and test temps...


----------



## Erick Silver

Not an owner of any of the HXXX products yet. But perhaps you could change the title to include the newest members of the the line? Before someone creates a "Official H80/H100 Club". That would be kinda redundant.


----------



## Ceadderman

This is the Hydro Series club. Killhouse just needs to edit in "Advance" mode where he should be able to change the title.









~Ceadder


----------



## GoldenGeisha

Finally i got my H60 today.
I'll post some pics later today!


----------



## Exectioner

Add me to the club gentlemen... Just got it running and I already want to throw a H80 on it...


----------



## [email protected]

Looks nice. You must have a great camera lol. Also i really don't think you should be adding intake on your cooler, you're causing pressure air inside although you have a top cooler fan but heat rises so you're gonna isolate air in the middle and also it's right above the video card. Set the fan to exhaust. IMO!


----------



## Kokin

I think Exectioner's setup is fine. Hot air does rise, but it also goes where you force the airflow to go (in his case up his top exhaust). You'll also notice that his gpu exhausts air inside his case, not out the back, so rear intake will give him better temps overall, not just for his cpu.

If he does run it exhaust, he's taking the MUCH hotter air from his gpu through his RAM/NB/VRMs/Rad, which would cause those other components to absorb more heat. This is why I always recommend intake unless you have the blower-type gpus.

My only recommendation is to put your tower towards the middle of the table, so it receives more fresh air and also lessens the chance of it falling.


----------



## rheicel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exectioner;14373851*
> Add me to the club gentlemen... Just got it running and I already want to throw a H80 on it...


What canmera did you use?


----------



## Epsi

Anyone seen this review already? (Review about the H100)

Looks nice i think, think i'm gonna order one right away.

http://www.hardocp.com/article/2011/07/26/corsair_h100_extreme_perf_liquid_cpu_cooler_review/1


----------



## gotendbz1

so i just upgraded from a h50 with 2 ultra kaze in p/p @ 2000RPM to a h70 with with GT ap-15 @ 1800RPM and i gotta say I'm not impressed.

I didn't think i would get a big temp drop but maybe 5-7 degrees, but its prolly the same or maybe 1-2 degree drop at most. Noise level has dropped but dam where is the performance increase from teh h50---->h70

anyone has experience with this or any info to share.


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gotendbz1*


so i just upgraded from a h50 with 2 ultra kaze in p/p @ 2000RPM to a h70 with with GT ap-15 @ 1800RPM and i gotta say I'm not impressed.

I didn't think i would get a big temp drop but maybe 5-7 degrees, but its prolly the same or maybe 1-2 degree drop at most. Noise level has dropped but dam where is the performance increase from teh h50---->h70

anyone has experience with this or any info to share.


To measure the improvement you have to use the same fans, remember that you upgraded the rad/pump but downgraded the fans.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Exectioner*


Add me to the club gentlemen... Just got it running and I already want to throw a H80 on it...











Wow man im really liking that , looks beautiful .


----------



## CloudX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xristo*


Wow man im really liking that , looks beautiful .


Aye. Tasteful setup right there.


----------



## Nethermir

I only have $150 for food and expenses till next week and i still went ahead and ordered a H100. Looks like ill be eating instant noodles for the whole week.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *evilsearat*


Just because I noticed... I'm actually seeing idle temperatures of exactly 36c on my CPU as well, or I was for the week that it was all working. Do you suppose I could be having a similar issue? I guess I'll know after I reseat/reapply on the new board and test temps...


That's hard to give advice for. @jnamon83 had two coolers so he can do a direct comparison. You're sorta of in a bad position because you have no data showing the cooler working better than it is now.

If you were getting 36c idle, what are you getting now? Oh, you're doing a reinstall. Let us know what you get after your reinstall.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*


Not an owner of any of the HXXX products yet. But perhaps you could change the title to include the newest members of the the line? Before someone creates a "Official H80/H100 Club". That would be kinda redundant.


We've been after that change for about six months now. People keep suggesting it but no one does anything about it.

There is already a thread for the H80. It's not an "H80 club" but it might as well be. A lot of H100 people showing up there now.

If anyone is interested the H100 is available on Newegg now.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Exectioner*


Add me to the club gentlemen...










Saw your pics in the Graphite club. Good job.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


Looks nice. You must have a great camera lol. Also i really don't think you should be adding intake on your cooler, you're causing pressure air inside although you have a top cooler fan but heat rises so you're gonna isolate air in the middle and also it's right above the video card. Set the fan to exhaust. IMO!


According to Corsair George (and other discussions I've read) you should not base your case cooling on "hot air rises". Fans are a lot stronger than the force pushing warm air up (or pulling as the case may be). Overriding this tendency is pretty easy by just using fans. Corsair recommends using intake because you will get lower CPU temps. However, there are quite a few things to think about when making this decision including: Case, number of fans, orientation of fans, type of video card (some exhaust out the back of the case, some exhaust inside the case).

There is no blanket solution for the orientation of fans on a rad. Personally I would suggest if anyone is unhappy with their temps they should experiment a little and find the solution that works best for them.


----------



## Mightylobo

Do you guys think its worth upgrading from a H50 to a H70 or a H80? or better yet just go back to air?

I am running a Fortress. so I am pretty much limited to a thick single rad.. (Unless I mount it on the bottom, which I don't plan to)

Thanks


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mightylobo*


Do you guys think its worth upgrading from a H50 to a H70 or a H80? or better yet just go back to air?

I am running a Fortress. so I am pretty much limited to a thick single rad.. (Unless I mount it on the bottom, which I don't plan to)

Thanks










How high are you planning to overclock it?


----------



## PhatMuffinMan

I have my H50 in P/P with intake from the rear of the case.

I believe my Corsair 600T SE pulls the air up and out. Will my graphics card cause any issues with heat in this set up?

Every since I changed to P/P intake my GPU temps rose around 3 degrees or so.


----------



## cavallino

I wonder which would perform better H70 with push pull scythe kaze 300K rpm or H100 with quieter fans in push only. I am getting tired of the loud noise but the cooling is nice.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cavallino*


I wonder which would perform better H70 with push pull scythe kaze 300K rpm or H100 with quieter fans in push only. I am getting tired of the loud noise but the cooling is nice.


The corsair fans have more mm2ho so they would perform better.


----------



## cavallino

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*


The corsair fans have more mm2ho so they would perform better.


Yeah I'm kind of waiting for more H100 reviews.

I just got an Asus Transformer and I'm either going to by the keyboard dock when I get it or get an H100.


----------



## Mightylobo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*


How high are you planning to overclock it?


Will try to hit 5ghz but for 24/7 I am looking at 4.5 - 4.7 ghz


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mightylobo*


Will try to hit 5ghz but for 24/7 I am looking at 4.5 - 4.7 ghz


With the amount of voltage you may need, I would recommend the H80 then. It seems to do better with higher voltage than an H60 would. I have an H60 now but when I try to pump high voltages in to it, it seems to get pretty hot. Not dangerously hot, but just not where I'd like it. I ordered an H80 as well, yesterday, so I can overclock a lot more and keep it nice and cool.

According to the reviews it should handle it very well. The H60 is more of a casual overclocker's cooler IMO.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;14385277*
> I only have $150 for food and expenses till next week and i still went ahead and ordered a H100. Looks like ill be eating instant noodles for the whole week.


If I had that kind of allowance I would have done that too or probably the $125 RS240 kit from SVC. :3


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin;14394989*
> If I had that kind of allowance I would have done that too or probably the $125 RS240 kit from SVC. :3


not allowance, that's all that's left from my paycheck lol







i was debating if im gonna get the h100 or rs240 but i decided to try h100 first and im not satisfied, go rs240. it seems a pretty simple kit to setup.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;14395049*
> not allowance, that's all that's left from my paycheck lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i was debating if im gonna get the h100 or rs240 but i decided to try h100 first and im not satisfied, go rs240. it seems a pretty simple kit to setup.


Ah sorry for misunderstanding. I will be like you as soon as I can find a job.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance;14393307*
> The H60 is more of a casual overclocker's cooler IMO.


I would agree for Intel CPUs, but since AMD CPUs tend to run a lot cooler, even at full load, a 120mm is all that's needed for an AMD CPU within normal voltages. Anything past 1.55v would need at least a 240mm rad, if not more.


----------



## Bill Owen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exectioner;14373851*
> Add me to the club gentlemen... Just got it running and I already want to throw a H80 on it...


Turned out awesome!


----------



## cravinmild

I see that the Corsair H100 has start to ship so here we go. Post your H100 storys/pics

Got mine today. My first shot, had to be quick, picked it up on my lunchbreak, had to get back.
More to come.


_IGP9371 by cravinmild, on Flickr

If anyone has a 3d setup ill be posting a link to my 3d stills when im done.


----------



## moop

http://www.overclock.net/other-cooling-discussions/1077405-got-my-h100-today.html

I'll just leave this here..


----------



## cravinmild

dang, you sleeved your fan wires. Now i have to sleeve my fan wires too









I was surprised how much thinner the tubing is on the H100, much less than my H70.


----------



## faulkton

what case is that in?


----------



## moop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faulkton;14397217*
> what case is that in?


650d


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mightylobo;14392771*
> Do you guys think its worth upgrading from a H50 to a H70 or a H80? or better yet just go back to air?
> 
> I am running a Fortress. so I am pretty much limited to a thick single rad.. (Unless I mount it on the bottom, which I don't plan to)
> 
> Thanks


Have you lapped your H50? It takes a little effort but if you do I think you will perform as well as or a little better than a stock H70.

http://www.neoseeker.com/Articles/Hardware/Reviews/Corsair_Hydro_H80/2.html

You can see the H80 does better than the H50, but remember that they are testing stock, so only one fan on their H50.

If you decide to upgrade, personally I would go with the H80 over the H70. You should get better temps and better control. Just don't expect a drastic temp change.


----------



## longroadtrip

H100 is on the way....will post temps and pics once I get it installed. Can't wait to see how it handles 5.3 gHz....


----------



## Anth0789

Just came in today!


----------



## v1ral

Please post temps?








I would like to see how these fair at cooling a 1155 chip.


----------



## moop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral;14399639*
> Please post temps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would like to see how these fair at cooling a 1155 chip.


If you look at my post above, I linked to a thread I started where I posted some temps. They're not the most complete and thorough set of temps, but they might be of some use to you









edit: might as well include the link here: http://www.overclock.net/other-cooli...100-today.html


----------



## ltg2227

I'm in the process of setting up my shroud config. and doing some cleaning as well. The last few times i've checked, my idle cpu temps have up 2 or 3 degrees. Well, when i pulled off my Rad. and fan i think i know why now. I just thought i'd share this!


----------



## braindrain

Wow!! How long have you had the cooler on for? I can only imagine the dust situation getting worse with a shroud, time for a filter methinks.


----------



## ltg2227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindrain;14400023*
> Wow!! How long have you had the cooler on for? I can only imagine the dust situation getting worse with a shroud, time for a filter methinks.


Actually, i clean my pc about 1 or 2 times a month with my air compressor, but i never really realized how dusty the rad. gets. This was the first time i've had the rad. off since i installed it a few months ago. Can i get dust filters specially for 120mm fans and where?


----------



## braindrain

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ltg2227*


Can i get dust filters specially for 120mm fans and where?


I think Lian Li make 120mm fan filters. Otherwise just make some out of pantyhose and rubberbands.


----------



## Paladin Goo

Would you recommend using the stock thermal compound that comes with the H100?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ltg2227*


Actually, i clean my pc about 1 or 2 times a month with my air compressor, but i never really realized how dusty the rad. gets. This was the first time i've had the rad. off since i installed it a few months ago. Can i get dust filters specially for 120mm fans and where?




Try this.









~Ceadder


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindrain;14400169*
> I think Lian Li make 120mm fan filters. Otherwise just make some out of pantyhose and rubberbands.


i wouldn't.. i'd use better filters that won't restrict airflow. Panthose is just stupid and they clog air flow too.


----------



## lawrencendlw

I have used mosquito net and Household screen material (the stuff they use to make window screens and screen doors) to make filters before and they are minimally restrictive (even when folded over several times) and catch quite a lot of dust. Plus they look nice and can be painted any color to match your theme. Some can even be bought in various color schemes. Plus you can get a huge roll of it for cheap and so instead of cleaning it, you can be lazy and throw it away lol.


----------



## ltg2227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14400549*
> 
> 
> Try this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Do you know how long the screws are that come with this? Right now, i need about a 3 inch screw to make my shroud config work.


----------



## ltg2227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw;14400787*
> I have used mosquito net and Household screen material (the stuff they use to make window screens and screen doors) to make filters before and they are minimally restrictive (even when folded over several times) and catch quite a lot of dust. Plus they look nice and can be painted any color to match your theme. Some can even be bought in various color schemes. Plus you can get a huge roll of it for cheap and so instead of cleaning it, you can be lazy and throw it away lol.


The screen material looks nice too. I may check into it as well.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ltg2227;14400848*
> Do you know how long the screws are that come with this? Right now, i need about a 3 inch screw to make my shroud config work.


The filter mounts directly to the fans using whatever you use to mount them to your Radiator. The filter itself has four screws to remove it, leaving the rest of the unit in place while you clean it. You just screw it back onto the unit when it's clean. U can use a brush to clean it or you can run it under water let it air dry to keep liquid away from the electrical connections.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## lawrencendlw

If you need some longer screws try either Lowes or Home depot. That's where I got my screws (Lowes as my home depot didn't have any in stock). I swear that place is a case modders toy store lol.


----------



## wildfan84

Heres mine


































Wondering how to set pump at max speed, i saw that its working on 2091rpm and sometimes at 4000rpm, but cant control it (probably coz of non C. Link use) hm..Overclocked q9650 4.25ghz 1.36v goes in load close to 82C


----------



## audioxbliss

I have to say... looks pretty awesome. I'm obviously more partial to my custom loop, but definitely a great looking option for friends and such. Now, I just need to see some temp comparisons... xD


----------



## Carzum

(First?) Dutch H100 owner reporting in!

I ordered the H100 the same time as my 750AX and HAF 922, got those last tuesday and the H100 this morning.




























I mounted it on the top of the case, and replaced that 200mm fan to the left sidepanel.

I got front 200mm intake, side 200mm intake and the H100 as a push exhaust at the top and it works like a charm









This cooler is, for me atleast, the definition of silence and performance.

My i7-870, which usually runs pretty hot, has a max temp of 42 centigrade @ stock load. (18 centigrade ambient)

I'll post some OC temps and Realtemp screens later on, but for now...

Well done, Corsair!


----------



## TechSilver13

Just a quick update on my new H80 going from my H50. There is a 10 degree Celsius difference. Using the same fans I had on my H50 not the ones that came with the H80. At 4.82GHz at 1.424v using Prime95 my average temps seem to be right at 60 degrees Celsius. Just a little info for you guys.


----------



## Ceadderman

10c which direction? Hotter? Cooler? Same orientation as your H50 was? Intake? Exhaust? Need more information please.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Skyler2Dope*


Just a quick update on my new H80 going from my H50. There is a 10 degree Celsius difference. Using the same fans I had on my H50 not the ones that came with the H80. At 4.82GHz at 1.424v using Prime95 my average temps seem to be right at 60 degrees Celsius. Just a little info for you guys.




Probably be even better if you weren't using those terrible fans.


----------



## azure1394

Hope this isn't a re-posted question... Will the backplate for the H50/H70
work for the installation of the H100, or does it require replacing with the H100 backplate? Thanks for your input...


----------



## longroadtrip

@azure1394 - I don't think it will, because it has a whole different mounting mechanism. I can let you know once my H100 gets here. I have an H70 to compare it to.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ltg2227;14399919*
> I'm in the process of setting up my shroud config. and doing some cleaning as well. The last few times i've checked, my idle cpu temps have up 2 or 3 degrees. Well, when i pulled off my Rad. and fan i think i know why now. I just thought i'd share this!


That's why my H70 is exhaust.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skyler2Dope;14403856*
> Just a quick update on my new H80 going from my H50. There is a 10 degree Celsius difference. Using the same fans I had on my H50 not the ones that came with the H80.


What fans are you using? The H80 fans are great fans, you should try them and retest your temps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azure1394;14404218*
> Hope this isn't a re-posted question... Will the backplate for the H50/H70
> work for the installation of the H100, or does it require replacing with the H100 backplate? Thanks for your input...


Yes it will. Ftimster in the H80 thread asked Corsair this because he doesn't have the access hole in his system and Corsair said he could use it.
It's just a back plate that holds screws. There should be no problem.
Here is the link:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1056539-corsair-h80-performance-thread-80.html

Message 798.

Wow, some of these sigs are getting long. Isn't there an 8 or 10 line limit?

I ordered a H100 yesterday. I will be documenting everything.


----------



## faulkton

I want to know if it works in the 650d push/pull with the maximus iv extrm.. and how it compares in p/p vs a silver arrow d14.


----------



## TechSilver13

10c cooler if it was worse i wouldnt have bothered posting the info and its intake just like the manual suggests and yes its the same setup as my h50 not much of a test if i changed it up but ur right i.needed to post that info for others info


----------



## azure1394

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip;14406721*
> @azure1394 - I don't think it will, because it has a whole different mounting mechanism. I can let you know once my H100 gets here. I have an H70 to compare it to.


Many Thanks, will be upgrading soon to H100, look forward to your response.


----------



## TechSilver13

the fans I bought are the Thermaltake AF0026 Smart Blue LED 120mm Fan with Speed control knob. The stats are:

RPM
1,300 - 2,500 RPM
Air Flow
Max. Air Flow: 97.5 CFM
Noise Level
24.6 - 38.8 dBA

The stock fans are:

Radiator Fan RPM
1300 RPM (Low Noise), 2000 RPM (Balanced), 2500 RPM (High Performance)
Radiator Fan Air Flow
46 - 92 CFM
Radiator Fan Noise
22 - 39 dBA

I switched them from Thermaltake to stock and my temps are around 4 to 6 degrees Celsius hotter than with the Thermaltake fans. So stat wise the Thermaltake fans are better and performance wise they are better.


----------



## ltg2227

well, i spent most of the day cleaning my pc and making the shroud config. And after all that i can't see any difference in temps. I kept most everything the same. Kept the H70 as intake, however i did turn it so that the tubes was on bottom instead of the top, would that make any difference??? The new 38mm Ultra Kaze fans blows tons of air through, so i can't figure that one out either:headscrat . I think i have everything set up properly. I tried to change as little as possible to the rest of the system. With the the shrouds and larger fans i was hoping for at least 3 or 4 degree diff. cooler, but not one drop. Now i guess i will experiment a little with diff. setups. I may ditch the shrouds and just use the Kaze fans and see how that goes, maybe trying it as exhaust too. Should i turn the Rad. back so that the tubes are on top?? actually, pretty disappointed right now. Also, i had to cut a piece of the fan shroud on my 230mm side fan so that the side panel would go back on properly. On a side note, when i first powered on after setup, my idle cpu temps was like 36-38C then after a few minutes returned to normal which is about 30-32C. I've also noticed my NB temps are a little higher too, but i kind of expected that. btw, cpu,NB, and ram are all stock settings. Here are a few pics. One is a before.

Edit: i didn't reseat the pump to cpu, left it alone.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azure1394;14408387*
> Many Thanks, will be upgrading soon to H100, look forward to your response.


Don't go pulling your motherboard out.

See my response to your question in comment #19043.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skyler2Dope;14409245*
> the fans I bought are the Thermaltake AF0026 Smart Blue LED 120mm Fan with Speed control knob. The stats are:
> 
> RPM
> 1,300 - 2,500 RPM
> Air Flow
> Max. Air Flow: 97.5 CFM
> Noise Level
> 24.6 - 38.8 dBA
> 
> The stock fans are:
> 
> Radiator Fan RPM
> 1300 RPM (Low Noise), 2000 RPM (Balanced), 2500 RPM (High Performance)
> Radiator Fan Air Flow
> 46 - 92 CFM
> Radiator Fan Noise
> 22 - 39 dBA
> 
> I switched them from Thermaltake to stock and my temps are around 4 to 6 degrees Celsius hotter than with the Thermaltake fans. So stat wise the Thermaltake fans are better and performance wise they are better.


That's very strange considering that your Thermaltake fans only have a maximum static pressure of 4.65 mm/H20 and the stock H80 fans have a maximum static pressure of 7.7mm/H20 which should give them better air flow through a rad.


----------



## pacho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anth0789;14399539*
> Just came in today!


What temps are you getting on that 940?
I'm also still with 1366, if the H100 outperforms the best air coolers now, I will get it with a 650D to fit it.


----------



## Badboyz

i want it but will it fit in my nzxt tempest evo v2 :-S please let me know


----------



## Chuckclc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moop;14397147*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/other-cooling-discussions/1077405-got-my-h100-today.html
> 
> I'll just leave this here..


All that just looks sweet!








Quote:


> Would you recommend using the stock thermal compound that comes with the H100?


Yes, you are not gonna find much better.


----------



## Tatakai All

I'm ordering mine tomorrow, can't wait to see some temps and reviews.


----------



## CloudX

Moop your system is gorgeous!

H100 looks nice!


----------



## wildfan84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raven Dizzle;14400256*
> Would you recommend using the stock thermal compound that comes with the H100?


I was using at first time the stock one, but temps was terrible. So after 24 hours i changed it to IC D Carat 7 and its much better, about 10c at stress and 4c at idle (-). Weird, stock Corsair compound is pretty good maybe with mine was something wrong. But in overall im not happy with H100, i think its not working good with my oldie cpu or placement in case is just wrong. H70 was doing better at load (about 12C lower than H100!). Im planning to check other placemenent methods of fans etc.


----------



## Chuckclc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wildfan84;14411033*
> I was using at first time the stock one, but temps was just terrible. So after 24 hours i changed it to IC D Carat 7 and its much better, about 10c at stress and 4c at idle (-). Weird, stock Corsair compound is pretty good maybe with mine was something wrong. But in overall im not happy with H100, i think its not working good with my oldie cpu or placement in case is just wrong. H70 was doing better at load (about 12C lower than H100!). Im planning to check other placemenent metods of fans etc.


The only thing about the stock TIM, which is some of the best stuff available, is that I believe they put too much on there. Also sometimes people do not mount properly on their first try. And if you pick up and re-mount or something you can allow air pockets. Do you have the pump running at 100%?


----------



## wildfan84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chuckclc;14411049*
> The only thing about the stock TIM, which is some of the best stuff available, is that I believe they put too much on there. Also sometimes people do not mount properly on their first try. And if you pick up and re-mount or something you can allow air pockets. Do you have the pump running at 100%?


Mounting the H100 on the cpu is pretty easy, there's no way to make it wrong. But yes the pump. For H70 it was ~1400rpm and yes it was working at 100% but here i dont know...its working only at 2000-2091rpm but sometimes at 4000rpm (couple of sec. and temp is lowering then) but can't control it manually i guess its automatic. I have got no idea for the pump here, molex connected to the PSU and motherboard hard with auto control off just for a check of pump speed.


----------



## CorsairGeorge

The pump always runs at around ~2100 RPM, but on some boards will report at 4000 RPM or more because of the way its designed.


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wildfan84;14411033*
> I was using at first time the stock one, but temps was terrible. So after 24 hours i changed it to IC D Carat 7 and its much better, about 10c at stress and 4c at idle (-). Weird, stock Corsair compound is pretty good maybe with mine was something wrong. But in overall im not happy with H100, i think its not working good with my oldie cpu or placement in case is just wrong. H70 was doing better at load (about 12C lower than H100!). Im planning to check other placemenent methods of fans etc.


If you are getting higher temps with the H100 than with the H70, something is definitely wrong.


----------



## NFL

Looking to pick one of these up, but first I'd like some advice. Going for a push-pull configuration, and was wondering what fans I should buy for it?


----------



## wildfan84

I would recommend the Gentle Typhoon AP15. They are very effective in rad cooling and quiet in push/pull configs. I was having them in use at H70 and now with H100.


----------



## Johnny2000

Have anyone here tried the H100 with a Corsair 600T case and a amd motherboard? Because from what I can measure it won't fit to have both the radiator and the fans inside the case. It seems it will be not enough space above the memory modules.

Which leaves me with three options:

1. Have the rad mounted inside, but the fans in the dedicated space on top in a pull-configuration. Which I fear won't be very effective?

2. Same as above, but adding 12mm fans inside below the rad to do the push job. But I've heard somewhere that 12mm fans don't make any static pressure so they're not suited for use with radiators.

3. same as in 1. but mount the fans in a push-config with air beeing drawed from outside and blowing hot air into my cabinet which to me not sounds like a good idea.

Any experience or suggestions?


----------



## Epsi

Got the Corsair H100 up and running. So far so good, nice results. Only the way i wanted it in my case wasn't working. Rad + fans on it is too thick so it hits my memory slots. Radiator sits ontop of my case now. Still need to cut away some plastic so it may close properly. Or find another mounting solution.










It's running with the stock Corsair fans and already cooling better then my H70 with two AP15's in P/P.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Epsi;14411984*
> ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...It's running with the stock Corsair fans and already cooling better then my H70 with two AP15's in P/P.


That looks great. Do you have temp values for us? I will also be changing from an H70 to the H100 so I am very interested.


----------



## Epsi

Made two quick 8 min. prime95 runs.

Dunno if the high speed test is 100% fair because i started it right after the medium speed test was finished.

I think the temps would have been a little lower if i mounted it like Corsair has shown.

Will try push/pull soon.









Fans at medium









Fans at high


----------



## Jayce1971

That's mighty cool, man.. I like how you don't have to volt the heck out of that 6core to get good speeds.... helps keep temps down I bet. With my H70 reseated with AS5, and a 400mhz oc, I hit 49c on the same run. My voltage is 1.45, and ambient temps are around 29c, though.... much better than the ol' athlon 2xp which would hit 69-75c on prime.... (think I wore the old girl out...)


----------



## lightsout

Does anyone know the thickness of the H100 with 4 fans in push pull?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Isn't there already a Hydro-Series Club???


----------



## ManOnFire

Been waiting for pics of it fitted to a 690 II and i'm chuffed to see it can be mounted in the top cavity like i hoped


----------



## Epsi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ManOnFire*


Been waiting for pics of it fitted to a 690 II and i'm chuffed to see it can be mounted in the top cavity like i hoped










Well it aint fitting like it should be tho. Top coffer aint closing.
The original mounting way is rad + fans inside the case, but i have the fans inside and the rad ontop of the case.

Sent from my HTC using Tapatalk


----------



## ManOnFire

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Epsi*


Well it aint fitting like it should be tho. Top coffer aint closing.
The original mounting way is rad + fans inside the case, but i have the fans inside and the rad ontop of the case.

Sent from my HTC using Tapatalk


I've already trimmed plastic away from the inside of mine though as it was restricting airflow and means i could mount fans in there.


----------



## Epsi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ManOnFire*


I've already trimmed plastic away from the inside of mine though as it was restricting airflow and means i could mount fans in there.


Ah nice, still need to cut some away my self. Thinking of removing the mesh cover and put two ap15's for the pulling job.

Sent from my HTC using Tapatalk


----------



## Jayce1971

Even with the H70, some creative dremeling is neccessary. With a stock huge side case fan, I couldn't put the case side back on without removing some of the fan shroud. It's all good, just part of good cooling. Well worth the end effort, imo.


----------



## Nova.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*


Isn't there already a Hydro-Series Club???


Its for the H-50,70.


----------



## Carzum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lightsout*


Does anyone know the thickness of the H100 with 4 fans in push pull?


According to the box the rad itself is 27mm thick.
The Corsair fans are 25mm thick...

So: 25+25+27=77mm or ~3 inches


----------



## wildfan84

Here's a little benchmark, oc Q9650. I give him a bit more v as usual to see how's doing H100 in p/p config with AP15 at 3/4 of speed. Ambient 26c. Corsair 600T case.



In overall its not so good i guess. On H70 it was 69-71C with the same cpu oc and ambient temperature around 26c.


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Looks like a bad mount. Lood at the large difference between cores.


----------



## wildfan84

Those differences between cores are normal at quad. At first time i was thinking the same. I double checked it, its mounted proper, compound spreaded well. All fit good. Im thinking about RMA it, but im not sure yet.


----------



## fibre_optics

I will be getting an H100 as soon as they are released in the UK, cant find one anywhere


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wildfan84*


Those differences between cores are normal at quad. At first time i was thinking the same. I double checked it, its mounted proper, compound spreaded well. All fit good. Im thinking about RMA it, but im not sure yet.


There shouldn't be that large of a difference. My Q9650 or any other quad that I've used for that matter has never had much more than a few degrees difference between cores.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nova.*


Its for the H-50,70.


it's actually for h50-h80 but the op havent updated the title. i think this one should merge there o.o


----------



## dade_kash_xD

wrong thread :X


----------



## Exectioner

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


I think Exectioner's setup is fine. Hot air does rise, but it also goes where you force the airflow to go (in his case up his top exhaust). You'll also notice that his gpu exhausts air inside his case, not out the back, so rear intake will give him better temps overall, not just for his cpu.

If he does run it exhaust, he's taking the MUCH hotter air from his gpu through his RAM/NB/VRMs/Rad, which would cause those other components to absorb more heat. This is why I always recommend intake unless you have the blower-type gpus.

My only recommendation is to put your tower towards the middle of the table, so it receives more fresh air and also lessens the chance of it falling.


Bingo... This is the reasoning for the intake setup... No worries, it was only positioned on the edge for pictures...


----------



## Exectioner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rheicel;14377209*
> What canmera did you use?


Sony 8MP... Nothing special... Lighting played a big factor in the pictures...


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Epsi;14412606*
> Made two quick 8 min. prime95 runs.
> 
> Dunno if the high speed test is 100% fair because i started it right after the medium speed test was finished.
> 
> I think the temps would have been a little lower if i mounted it like Corsair has shown.
> 
> Will try push/pull soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fans at medium
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fans at high


Hey bud, I was wondering why all your core temps are exactly the same? (is that an AMD thing?)

"Dunno if the high speed test is 100% fair because i started it right after the medium speed test was finished."

That would be why your temps are higher with high speed than they are with medium speed.

I don't think 8 minutes is enough to give us the real story. You're not letting the CPU get as hot as it can. Using prime95 and Furmark I usually need at least a half hour for the temps to stabilize. You should run the test until the temps won't budge and are as high as they will go, then screenshot and click the button to increase the fan speed. You should see the temps decrease. After it is stable screenshot again. I bet 30 minutes at medium and then 15 minutes at high would do the job.

The most interesting thing would have been a comparison of the temps from your H70. It's too bad you didn't have a test before you switched to the H100.


----------



## ltg2227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ltg2227;14409515*
> well, i spent most of the day cleaning my pc and making the shroud config. And after all that i can't see any difference in temps. I kept most everything the same. Kept the H70 as intake, however i did turn it so that the tubes was on bottom instead of the top, would that make any difference??? The new 38mm Ultra Kaze fans blows tons of air through, so i can't figure that one out either:headscrat . I think i have everything set up properly. I tried to change as little as possible to the rest of the system. With the the shrouds and larger fans i was hoping for at least 3 or 4 degree diff. cooler, but not one drop. Now i guess i will experiment a little with diff. setups. I may ditch the shrouds and just use the Kaze fans and see how that goes, maybe trying it as exhaust too. Should i turn the Rad. back so that the tubes are on top?? actually, pretty disappointed right now. Also, i had to cut a piece of the fan shroud on my 230mm side fan so that the side panel would go back on properly. On a side note, when i first powered on after setup, my idle cpu temps was like 36-38C then after a few minutes returned to normal which is about 30-32C. I've also noticed my NB temps are a little higher too, but i kind of expected that. btw, cpu,NB, and ram are all stock settings. Here are a few pics. One is a before.
> 
> Edit: i didn't reseat the pump to cpu, left it alone.


well, i took off the shrouds and just running fans with Rad.(P/P intake) and still no difference in idle temps. They blow lots of air through the Rad. but the idle temps haven't dropped. I was sure expecting a lower temp with the Kaze fans. I haven't tested load temps yet, but i don't have anything OC'ed yet. I will have to OC a little and see if there will be any difference in temps there.


----------



## Mergatroid

Wow, that's really too bad. I was thinking about adding an intake shroud to my H70 but seeing how it didn't change your temps I don't think I'll bother (I'm getting a H100 soon anyway).
Um, 38mm? Your first post says your fans are 38mm. Did you mean 120mm?

Those Kaze fans should have shown some performance improvement. It's really odd that you got higher temps when you first turned your system on. Perhaps there's a little air in your H70 system. Have you tried reseating the H70?

I don't think you should reorient your rad. It's actually less likely to have a problem with trapped air if the hoses are not on the top. Technically speaking, there's no problem with having the hoses on the top as Corsair put a system together exactly the same way, but it does make sense not to put them on top if you don't have to.


----------



## ltg2227

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*


Wow, that's really too bad. I was thinking about adding an intake shroud to my H70 but seeing how it didn't change your temps I don't think I'll bother (I'm getting a H100 soon anyway).
Um, 38mm? Your first post says your fans are 38mm. Did you mean 120mm?

Those Kaze fans should have shown some performance improvement. It's really odd that you got higher temps when you first turned your system on. Perhaps there's a little air in your H70 system. Have you tried reseating the H70?

I don't think you should reorient your rad. It's actually less likely to have a problem with trapped air if the hoses are not on the top. Technically speaking, there's no problem with having the hoses on the top as Corsair put a system together exactly the same way, but it does make sense not to put them on top if you don't have to.


Yea, my setup was (2) 120x38mm fans with (2) 120x25mm shrouds. I guess because i turned the Rad. "upside down" from the way i had it may have caused the temperary temp. increase








. I didn't try to reseat it because atm i don't have any thermal paste, but may try later on. I'll prob.leave the tubes on bottom for now. I may try setting them as exhaust and see if there is any temp. change that way. I just don't understand how they haven't shown any (idle) temp drop. These fans push a lot of air through the Rad., i was def. hoping for a few degrees difference. I do like the Kaze fans though. I'm thinking about getting a few more for my case.


----------



## Epsi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*


Hey bud, I was wondering why all your core temps are exactly the same? (is that an AMD thing?)

"Dunno if the high speed test is 100% fair because i started it right after the medium speed test was finished."

That would be why your temps are higher with high speed than they are with medium speed.

I don't think 8 minutes is enough to give us the real story. You're not letting the CPU get as hot as it can. Using prime95 and Furmark I usually need at least a half hour for the temps to stabilize. You should run the test until the temps won't budge and are as high as they will go, then screenshot and click the button to increase the fan speed. You should see the temps decrease. After it is stable screenshot again. I bet 30 minutes at medium and then 15 minutes at high would do the job.

The most interesting thing would have been a comparison of the temps from your H70. It's too bad you didn't have a test before you switched to the H100.


Those core temps is an AMD thing.

The real temp u should look at is CPU temp. Phenom IIÂ´s tend to show a lower core temp then should be.

"That would be why your temps are higher with high speed than they are with medium speed."

CPU temps are 1c lower at high speed (look at max temps), i did stop it before making the screen shot so the "current value's" are in idle mode.

Yes 30 minutes Prime would have been better for sure, but i did the test for 8min because after 5 min i didnt notice any increase on the CPU temp. And ye, i should have run some h70 tests first but i couldnt wait.


----------



## azure1394

Quote:Yes it will. Ftimster in the H80 thread asked Corsair this because he doesn't have the access hole in his system and Corsair said he could use it.
It's just a back plate that holds screws. There should be no problem.

Thank-You Mergatroid!


----------



## Vandal4126

Need a H100 owners help here, I'm looking to mount this cooler rad at the bottom of my case with 4xAP-15's, will the pipes reach?


----------



## Nvidia-Brownies

Quote:



Originally Posted by *moop*




















http://www.overclock.net/other-cooli...100-today.html

I'll just leave this here..










PM Me more Pics, I'm making this my freaking background and a slideshow.


----------



## [email protected]

I am sorta looking forward considering getting H100 but the thing is i heard it doesn't quite fit in Antec 1200. I heard some buyer did and said it was 1 or 2 cm too close and couldn't fit in the case. I'm just only concerned if i will not be able to fit it in there. Are there any Antec 1200 owners here that have the cooler yet? I have yet to get it because i wanted to wait out and see if anyone has managed to make it fit?


----------



## Nvidia-Brownies

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vandal4126*


Need a H100 owners help here, I'm looking to mount this cooler rad at the bottom of my case with 4xAP-15's, will the pipes reach?











I'm pretty sure if you can work it around your GPU properly, then maybe.

But, my first suggestion is to : DUST OUT THAT DANG THING! your going to kill it with that much dust.


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nvidia-Brownies*


I'm pretty sure if you can work it around your GPU properly, then maybe.

But, my first suggestion is to : DUST OUT THAT DANG THING! your going to kill it with that much dust.


I really need someone with an H100 to tell me cuz if it can't then I'll go with the swiftech as it's a very good cooler(better then H100) just expensive


----------



## qazzaq2004

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vandal4126*


Need a H100 owners help here, I'm looking to mount this cooler rad at the bottom of my case with 4xAP-15's, will the pipes reach?











I recall seeing someone mount it to the bottom of their 690 II just fine.

I just ordered mine today, hoping to see some nice improvement over my current setup.
I was wondering if it'd be ok to use my AP-15s as Pull fans and to use the stock corsair ones as pull?


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:



Originally Posted by *qazzaq2004*


I recall seeing someone mount it to the bottom of their 690 II just fine.

I just ordered mine today, hoping to see some nice improvement over my current setup.
I was wondering if it'd be ok to use my AP-15s as Pull fans and to use the stock corsair ones as pull?


Really? who? Need to see pics


----------



## asuindasun

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vandal4126*


I really need someone with an H100 to tell me cuz if it can't then I'll go with the swiftech as it's a very good cooler(better then H100) just expensive


Get the XSPC Rasa kit instead if the H100 doesnt fit


----------



## Vandal4126

*double post*


----------



## Vandal4126

Quote:



Originally Posted by *asuindasun*


Get the XSPC Rasa kit instead if the H100 doesnt fit


No patience to install it. Cutting tubes/bleeding/removing air bubbles/checking for leaks/Refilling/Cleaning and w/e other perils there are with proper water kit. No thanks









I just need a centimetre/millimetre measurement of the pipes. I can check the length in my case then.


----------



## alwang17

rarg. any word on pricing for china?


----------



## esproductions

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vandal4126*


Need a H100 owners help here, I'm looking to mount this cooler rad at the bottom of my case with 4xAP-15's, will the pipes reach?











If they don't reach, make a custom shroud!


----------



## esproductions

I just ordered the H100 too! Hopefully it fits in my Phantom... and I'm gonna see if I can run it in P/P, it will be a tight fit!

I bought mine for $99 taxed-in!


----------



## esproductions

Anyone test it with their 2500K or 2600K CPU's yet? I wasn't able to prime95 my 2600K @ 4.5ghz with my H50, hopefully I can run 4.5-4.8ghz 24/7 with the H100.


----------



## cravinmild

Updating my original post now. I have a few pics to add, no glamor shots yet, need some time for those. The H100 is pretty nice to own, looks great, very quiet...what can i say, its a nice upgrade. My temps are not all that great compaired to a H70, perhaps a few degrees less idle. Ive yet to get my cpu oced as yet, its a bit of a dud and likes to be worked before giving up the goods. Highest temp recorded yet for my 1055t at stock is 32c, that is while playing the bf3 alfa. I ran 3dmark11 (free version) and Heaven DX11 but they are more for graphics benchies. Ill have to do some more stock tests befor moving on to oc temp tests. Im running 4x Ultra Kaze 3000 from a Scythe Master Pro 6 fan controller. Rpm is set to 1000-1200 for all four fans. My psu is much louder than all four rad fans. 

_IGP9530 by cravinmild, on Flickr

Notice how much tim is one the pump and notice how much larger my cpu is. I decided to wipe the pump clean and apply my own tim. Im sure they counted on some squishing out to fill the last few millimeters around the outer edge of the cpu.

_IGP9517 by cravinmild, on Flickr

_IGP9533 by cravinmild, on Flickr

_IGP9533 by cravinmild, on Flickr

and to see if i could


_IGP9521 by cravinmild, on Flickr

_IGP9527 by cravinmild, on Flickr

Now i know this is the H100 club but ill just quickly say that if this doesnt blow up my gpu, its a great way to cool a gpu. Super easy to do, takes like 15 mins. Some zip straps and your all set.

_IGP9523 by cravinmild, on Flickr

The heatplate has some raised indents that allow for you to clip the ends of the zip straps and not have them press against the pcb...causing it to fail perhaps. In no way was my vram or mem cooled with Zotacs cooling method....does not mean i cant damage it doing this from overheating, just a guess on my part that its going to be fine.

_IGP9531 by cravinmild, on Flickr

It seems its almost impossable to heat this card up. It laughs at 3dmark11 and Heaven DX11. The card maxes out at 50c, seems i cant heat it up past that. Ive not add volts yet but a oc to 950 from stock 822 has no effect on temps....at all. The temps drop to 38 instantly after the benches finnish and it idles at 32c-34c. I have walked away from the pc and come back to see temps as low as 29c. Not possable befor this mod. the card was 48c idle and ive seen it hit 92c gaming or 90c benchmarking with Heaven.

So there you goes. I post benchies as they come in. Nothing really important till the cpu is oced anyways.


----------



## moop

Quote:



Originally Posted by *esproductions*


Anyone test it with their 2500K or 2600K CPU's yet? I wasn't able to prime95 my 2600K @ 4.5ghz with my H50, hopefully I can run 4.5-4.8ghz 24/7 with the H100.


I'm running my 2500K @ 4.8GHz 24/7 with the H100.

http://www.overclock.net/other-cooli...100-today.html


----------



## Chobbit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fibre_optics*


I will be getting an H100 as soon as they are released in the UK, cant find one anywhere



Scan has them now for Â£87.72 with next day delivery

Dabs will have them within 2 days they say for Â£79.99 with free upto 3 working days delivery

I'm thinking of getting one, but I need advice, would it fit in the top of the CM 692 with 2x fans attached underneith it in push and 2x 120mm above it (under the case lid) as a pull?

I have tried fitting 140mm fans under the case lid and it wouldn't close but havent tried 120mm fans.


----------



## Ryko




----------



## xKransky

Has anyone just run pull config with two fans im real interested to see what the temp diff would be ??


----------



## Juggalo23451

h100 club is now merged with this thread


----------



## Epsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juggalo23451;14437030*
> h100 club is now merged with this thread


Nice, this thing is growing and growing. Hydro ftw


----------



## ltg2227

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ltg2227*


well, i took off the shrouds and just running fans with Rad.(P/P intake) and still no difference in idle temps. They blow lots of air through the Rad. but the idle temps haven't dropped. I was sure expecting a lower temp with the Kaze fans. I haven't tested load temps yet, but i don't have anything OC'ed yet. I will have to OC a little and see if there will be any difference in temps there.


a quick update, i turned my fans from intake to exhaust and i have seen about a 2-3 degree increase in idle temps. So far the 38mm Ultra Kaze fans has not given me the decrease in temps i was hoping for







. For now, i will switch them back to intake.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xKransky*


Has anyone just run pull config with two fans im real interested to see what the temp diff would be ??


No, I havent seen any... plenty on just push though.

Quote:



http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...benchmark.html


----------



## arrow0309

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anth0789*


Just came in today!









... _cut_ ...











Cool








Are you going to post your 3.8Ghz (or better 4.0Ghz) temps either?
Even 20' of LinX with 4GB of ram should work. I'd really like to compare your temps with mines.


----------



## 0mar32

Just got H60 installed in my Rig, Does anybody have it installed on a Core i5 760, if so, please post your temps!

Will Post pics by Saturday.


----------



## a2hopper

Anyone got any idea what kind of temps improvement I should see going from an H50 with gt-15's in push/pull to an h100 with the same fan set up? I'm hoping for at least 10 degrees Celsius, Is that realistic?


----------



## raIDERgeek

New guy here and noob with water cooling. I got a H50 few months back when it was on sale! I have a question should I be alright with just distilled water and pt nuke? or just distilled water?


----------



## grillinman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *raIDERgeek*


New guy here and noob with water cooling. I got a H50 few months back when it was on sale! I have a question should I be alright with just distilled water and pt nuke? or just distilled water?


What exactly did you do to it? Shouldn't need to open the "closed loop" system...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *raIDERgeek*


New guy here and noob with water cooling. I got a H50 few months back when it was on sale! I have a question should I be alright with just distilled water and pt nuke? or just distilled water?


H50 is a closed loop system. So you should be okay w/o using either.









~Ceadder


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xKransky*


Has anyone just run pull config with two fans im real interested to see what the temp diff would be ??



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sethy666*


No, I havent seen any... plenty on just push though.


There was a thread a while back using the H50/H70 in multiple configurations of push, pull, with and without shrouds, and IIRC including multiple fans. It was linked in an earlier post in this thread. Using multiple fans per side doesn't make a significant difference over a single fan per side; and pull-only is the least efficient setup. The ideal config is push/pull with 25mm shrouds.


----------



## Sethy666

Found this little gem on the Corsair website. Some may find it useful.

http://www.corsair.com/blog/installing-the-hydro-series-h100-extreme-performance-cpu-cooler-in-the-obsidian-800d

Even though its for a 800d, the same principles should apply to most cases.


----------



## qazzaq2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luchog;14453233*
> There was a thread a while back using the H50/H70 in multiple configurations of push, pull, with and without shrouds, and IIRC including multiple fans. It was linked in an earlier post in this thread. Using multiple fans per side doesn't make a significant difference over a single fan per side; and pull-only is the least efficient setup. The ideal config is push/pull with 25mm shrouds.


Check out my review of the H100 in Push/Pull with Stock Fans and AP-15s.
It's in the H100 review/benchmark thread. Post 158.

I went from a Ven-X w/ AP-15s to H100 and saw an 8 degree drop.
Your H50 should be comparable to my setup. Check out the full review for more info. But you should see ~10C drop in temp.

http://www.overclock.net/14450216-post158.html


----------



## Shneakypete

Dont know if anyone said this yet... AMD owners looking into the h100, make sure you have the original back plate and mounting bracket for your mobo... Corsair makes you use these and only supplies intel back plate.


----------



## Shneakypete

H100 prime temps after running for an hour... In comparison, my h70 maxed at 49c CPU and 55c cores, so about 5c cooler with the h100


----------



## kcuestag

Add me to the club! After having the H50 a year ago, I am returning to Corsair coolers again with an H80 together with x2 Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM fans.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild;14433362*
> 
> _IGP9531 by cravinmild, on Flickr
> 
> It seems its almost impossable to heat this card up. It laughs at 3dmark11 and Heaven DX11. The card maxes out at 50c, seems i cant heat it up past that. Ive not add volts yet but a oc to 950 from stock 822 has no effect on temps....at all. The temps drop to 38 instantly after the benches finnish and it idles at 32c-34c. I have walked away from the pc and come back to see temps as low as 29c. Not possable befor this mod. the card was 48c idle and ive seen it hit 92c gaming or 90c benchmarking with Heaven.
> 
> So there you goes. I post benchies as they come in. Nothing really important till the cpu is oced anyways.


I was thinking about doing the same thing with my H70 when I get my H100 in. I was thinking about using it on my Northbridge. I;m not sure it I can fit it though.

Great mod you did, nice case. Good job. + Rep.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juggalo23451;14437030*
> h100 club is now merged with this thread


There is an H80 thread that could be merged as well.


----------



## cravinmild

thanks for the rep+









So i decided to check my gpu heat with ocing befor my H100. Sorry those results will come next.

I used HeavenDX11 ver.2.5 (particulars dont matter as i was going for temps and max oc while keeping stable) as the benchmark for testing how well the H70 will cool my gpu. This round i managed to get the core to 1275mhz while never exceeding 43c. I used 1.120v and if MSI Afterburners slider bar allowed me to go farther im sure i could have gotten 1500core with the remaining .30v befor it capped my volt increases. Heat was never a issue, i ran 15 passes with no breaks between to cool the card down.

Here is my results

560ti oc by cravinmild, on Flickr

Zoom it in


----------



## qazzaq2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild;14469767*
> thanks for the rep+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So i decided to check my gpu heat with ocing befor my H100. Sorry those results will come next.
> 
> I used HeavenDX11 ver.2.5 (particulars dont matter as i was going for temps and max oc while keeping stable) as the benchmark for testing how well the H70 will cool my gpu. This round i managed to get the core to 1275mhz while never exceeding 43c. I used 1.120v and if MSI Afterburners slider bar allowed me to go farther im sure i could have gotten 1500core with the remaining .30v befor it capped my volt increases. Heat was never a issue, i ran 15 passes with no breaks between to cool the card down.
> 
> Here is my results
> 
> 560ti oc by cravinmild, on Flickr
> 
> Zoom it in


Wow, those are insane clocks. Now only if I could figure a way to use my old U12P and Ven-X as awesome mods.


----------



## Saucee

I'm havin problems with my h80. :/
I just installed it and I'm getting idle 50c on an i7 920 3.6ghz. Air is being pushed out of my case as well. Can anyone help with my temps?


----------



## alayoubi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Saucee*


I'm havin problems with my h80. :/
I just installed it and I'm getting idle 50c on an i7 920 3.6ghz. Air is being pushed out of my case as well. Can anyone help with my temps?


Make sure it is seated correctly on cpu surface and not on any capacitors around the cpu.


----------



## Matas

Cravinmild -> we are waiting your H100 results with OCed 1055T


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Matas*


Cravinmild -> we are waiting your H100 results with OCed 1055T










lol, this weekend. My core is a dud when trying to oc.....just more time is needed.


----------



## esproductions

Got my H100 today... here are a few pics from the unboxing


----------



## Shneakypete

My cm 690 II with h100 and two shrouds







.


----------



## Erper

guys, just a quick question...
since i have h50 and soon i5 is coming what temps would be on it...
btw, at current setup i have 4 fans 12cm, 1 on front intake, 2 at back for exaust, 1 on memory to keep it cool...
would that be enough to keep it under 30c at idle???


----------



## qazzaq2004

Are we talking an i5 2500k? You might be able to keep it at like 29 idle in a low ambient temp room, but even then I doubt it. You don't need such low temps for idle, just want lower temps for load. That cooler should keep it cool enough for a good 4.5+ Ghz overclock though.


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qazzaq2004;14476117*
> Are we talking an i5 2500k? You might be able to keep it at like 29 idle in a low ambient temp room, but even then I doubt it. You don't need such low temps for idle, just want lower temps for load. That cooler should keep it cool enough for a good 4.5+ Ghz overclock though.


yep, we talk about i5 2500k....
what would be load temp for 4.2-4.5 generally


----------



## Saucee

Quick question bout the h80. Apparently the screw holes in the radiator strip very easily. so now I have it zip tied into the back of my computer. I just got this thing yesterday. Do you think corsair will let me RMA it?


----------



## Erper

did u use correct screws... cause i messed my almost cause i got 4x4 different screws....


----------



## Saucee

Yep, I used the long black screws they gave me.


----------



## Erper

try read it here... id say its normal


----------



## Saucee

Yeah, I saw that before. But that's about the mounting bracket. I'm talking about the actual radiator that gets screwed into the fans.


----------



## Erper

did u try to screw it without mounting it on case.. it could be that holes are bit big...


----------



## Saucee

Yep, the screw goes straight into the hole with in resistance at all.


----------



## Conner

I had issues as well and improvised. You could probably contact corsair and they will send you like 20 screws.


----------



## Erper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saucee;14476378*
> Yep, the screw goes straight into the hole with in resistance at all.


dont go too far to break rad....


----------



## desmondcwc

May I know how much power does the h50/70 needs? In watt? As I'm finding a cooler with reasonable power consumption.







very interested in hydro series!


----------



## DisappointMe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *desmondcwc*


May I know how much power does the h50/70 needs? In watt? As I'm finding a cooler with reasonable power consumption.







very interested in hydro series!


I'm not sure what the answer to your question is or why you're asking this. If you're worried on how much power it will draw, why not get a more traditional heatsink? Draws no power at all. Except for the fans. Even then the power draw on these H-Coolers is probably laughable.


----------



## Bigo1087

ADD Me Please...

Just Got Mine Yesterday.....Managed to Install it this Morning Before I went to work. Powered up system and ran a quick Prime 95 for a couple Minutes

on Stock Clocks 970. Idled at 28-30 C
Prime 95 Full Load...nothing Higher than 50 C

Tonite I Will Start to Overclock my CPU for the first time......


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DisappointMe*


I'm not sure what the answer to your question is or why you're asking this. If you're worried on how much power it will draw, why not get a more traditional heatsink? Draws no power at all. Except for the fans. Even then the power draw on these H-Coolers is probably laughable.


I believe the EK 4.0 pump is 18w. It's higher in RPM and flow than an H50 so maybe ~10w?

I went to a few places and none of them including Newegg or PPCs', listed either the wattage or the amperage. But if I had to guess 10w +/- seems about right. These pumps have to work on the cheapest of Entry level Motherboards where the wattage per header is rather low.










~Ceadder


----------



## swindle

Add?


----------



## soad666p

add , waiting for h100


----------



## Ceadderman

You guys have to add yourselves like everyone else. No worries though. Here is the Link









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## soad666p

i see thanks mate


----------



## GREG MISO

What drive mount do u have for your rad i have been looking for a long time and havent found one to work for my h50. please reply.


----------



## 0mar32

Just got H60 installed in my Rig, Does anybody have it installed on a Core i5 760, if so, please post your temps!

Will Post pics by Saturday.


----------



## soad666p

who do u want to get a reply from ?


----------



## 0mar32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soad666p;14489438*
> who do u want to get a reply from ?


Anyone who has an H60 installed on a Core i5 760


----------



## Nethermir

ok i got my h100 and so far i am pretty pleased. except for the price ($100+). installation is quite simple, i have a h60 and just reused the mounts. i was a bit troublesome to hold the rad, balance the two fans on top and mount it as intake inside the case. i want everything to be inside the 650d. people say that the fans that corsair provided is good but i used two gt ap-15s because i like it's color and it looks badass







looks like the corsair 650d can hold a push/pull setup with 120mm x 25 mm fans.

only gripe about this is that the front plastic panel on the pump bearing the corsair logo was held by a flimsy double sided tape. when i removed the protective cover, it took the plastic panel easily. i probably need to put epoxy on it or something.

temps, yes everyone wants temps. i left the stock tim because i ran out of mx-4 but the results look ok. the temps below are just averages, i wasn't able to get screenshots of h60 temps.

*H60 p/p:*
idle hottest core: 40~44c
load hottest core: 65~69c

*H100 push:*
idle hottest core: 38~40c
load hottest core: 59~64c


----------



## Fidex

*I put it in a separate post but I see no one answers com I leave my office here, I hope someone can help me: D*

This summer more than the above I noticed that the temperature of my AMD Phenom X4 965 II I have a 3.4GHz currently are higher and there are even times when I'm playing Battlefield BC2, League Of Leguends or other game and the computer beeps because the processor temperature exceeds the safe

I have been looking to change my cooler that I have now and I have found kits Corsair cooling liquid that the truth is that they looked nice and wanted to see: Currently I have a OCZ Vendetta 2 will have almost two years, Corsair H60 will drop temperatures considerably? This kit is recommended or better somewhere else?

I hope your opinion, thanks in advance and best regards


----------



## qazzaq2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;14493861*
> ok i got my h100 and so far i am pretty pleased. except for the price ($100+). installation is quite simple, i have a h60 and just reused the mounts. i was a bit troublesome to hold the rad, balance the two fans on top and mount it as intake inside the case. i want everything to be inside the 650d. people say that the fans that corsair provided is good but i used two gt ap-15s because i like it's color and it looks badass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks like the corsair 650d can hold a push/pull setup with 120mm x 25 mm fans.
> 
> only gripe about this is that the front plastic panel on the pump bearing the corsair logo was held by a flimsy double sided tape. when i removed the protective cover, it took the plastic panel easily. i probably need to put epoxy on it or something.
> 
> temps, yes everyone wants temps. i left the stock tim because i ran out of mx-4 but the results look ok. the temps below are just averages, i wasn't able to get screenshots of h60 temps.
> 
> *H60 p/p:*
> idle hottest core: 40~44c
> load hottest core: 65~69c
> 
> *H100 pull:*
> idle hottest core: 38~40c
> load hottest core: 59~64c


Do you have your P/P and Pull temps reversed because your pull temps are currently lower than P/P


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qazzaq2004;14497143*
> Do you have your P/P and Pull temps reversed because your pull temps are currently lower than P/P


it is a h60 p/p vs. a h100 pull







it isn't really a very good comparison because there are some differences starting with the tim (h60 mx-4, h100 stock) and fans used (h60 blade masters while h100 gt ap-15).


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidex;14496685*
> *I put it in a separate post but I see no one answers com I leave my office here, I hope someone can help me: D*
> 
> This summer more than the above I noticed that the temperature of my AMD Phenom X4 965 II I have a 3.4GHz currently are higher and there are even times when I'm playing Battlefield BC2, League Of Leguends or other game and the computer beeps because the processor temperature exceeds the safe
> 
> I have been looking to change my cooler that I have now and I have found kits Corsair cooling liquid that the truth is that they looked nice and wanted to see: Currently I have a OCZ Vendetta 2 will have almost two years, Corsair H60 will drop temperatures considerably? This kit is recommended or better somewhere else?
> 
> I hope your opinion, thanks in advance and best regards


Just get the H50. It's a great cooler and much cheaper. There are two versions at Newegg. The one you want is currently out of stock.

At stock I would say that H50>>>Vendetta. Once you go water though there is a good chance you will never want air again. Only coolers I have found to be as good as a fully modded H50 without cutting into it is Megahelms and Noctua D14.

My H50 when I had it with Yate Loon Push/Pull and 25mm fan shroud put me at about 45c on stock 955BE. When I lapped the CPU, my temps went down to 29-31c @ Idle. I lapped the contact plate and ran the whole setup in Exhaust. Probably could have Idled between 27-29c had I mounted in the front as Intake, but my case has 120 mount up top so I chose to go with Exhaust to pull in cooler air from the bottom with another fan blowing directly at it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;14493861*
> ok i got my h100 and so far i am pretty pleased. except for the price ($100+). installation is quite simple, i have a h60 and just reused the mounts. i was a bit troublesome to hold the rad, balance the two fans on top and mount it as intake inside the case. i want everything to be inside the 650d. people say that the fans that corsair provided is good but i used two gt ap-15s because i like it's color and it looks badass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks like the corsair 650d can hold a push/pull setup with 120mm x 25 mm fans.


Hey bud, can you show us a picture of the inside top of your case where the rad is? Do you know how much space is left between the bottom of the cooling assembly and the top of your board?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fidex;14496685*
> Currently I have a OCZ Vendetta 2 will have almost two years, Corsair H60 will drop temperatures considerably? This kit is recommended or better somewhere else?
> 
> I hope your opinion, thanks in advance and best regards


Here is a comparison between the Vendetta and the H50. It looks like the H50 is better, and so the H60 should also be better.

http://www.bleedinedge.com/forum/showthread.php/38938-Corsair-H50-vs.-OCZ-Vendetta-2-Mini-Review.


----------



## longroadtrip

Mergatroid, there isn't enough room on the 600t to do P/P with the H100...tried it this morning with mine...will have photos up this evening along with temps (which are crazy low!)


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;14498928*
> Hey bud, can you show us a picture of the inside top of your case where the rad is? Do you know how much space is left between the bottom of the cooling assembly and the top of your board?


curse you for shooting my hopes down lol. in short im wrong. p/p won't fit inside unless you do some sort of mod/squishing/bending.










the problem is the 8-pin socket, looks like there is more or less only 20mm clearance. the 4-pin and 3-pin fan isn't much of a problem so long as you don't use it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes it will. Mount your Pull fans to the exterior and premount your Push fans. You can get 8mm gaskets to get your Push kit off the Radiator as well. So yes it will work. If you don't like the look of the fans being on the top you can get a Koolance Radiator cover to make things look a little cleaner.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Nethermir

yeah. i was hoping to put them all inside but looks like it wont do. ill stick with push for now since it looks better that way


----------



## longroadtrip

@Ceadderman There still is not enough room in the 600t or 650d to mount an H100 in P/P. If you went to 20mm fans you could probably do it.


----------



## longroadtrip

Here are my H100 results and photos.

























Stock Corsair fans mounted on top









Results:
Ambient is 23C
Load temps were from Prime 95 for 30 minutes

Idle temps (Balanced setting):








Balanced setting under load:








High setting under load:


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*


Here are my H100 results and photos.
*snip*

Stock Corsair fans mounted on top









*snip*


Flip your fans over. You're fighting natural convection with Intake since heat rises. Having Run my H50 setup at the top of my 932, I'm pretty confident you should see a little better temp. So you might as well stop fighting physics and flip em.









~Ceadder


----------



## longroadtrip

Tried it that way initially, not getting as good of temps as I am this way.

Thanks for taking a look and making a great suggestion though!


----------



## Ceadderman

That's surprising that you get better temps in Push with that setup. Is that with your other fans all in Exhaust?









~Ceadder


----------



## longroadtrip

That was with my front 2 as intake, the 2 on top as exhaust and the 120mm in the rear as an intake and then exhaust. Current config is all fans except the rear 120 as intake.


----------



## Nethermir

to h100 owners do you hear any annoying motor sound coming from the pump? kinda hard to desribe but it is very audible to me (i am using noctua and gt fans so theyre dead silent).


----------



## longroadtrip

I don't hear anything from mine. I'm using Xigmateks, AP-15s, and the stock H100 fans, so it isn't exactly silent. When I put my ear to it though, I couldn't really hear anything.


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:



Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*


I don't hear anything from mine. I'm using Xigmateks, AP-15s, and the stock H100 fans, so it isn't exactly silent. When I put my ear to it though, I couldn't really hear anything.


Seems ok to me, nothing weird.


----------



## Nethermir

hmm weird. i have some noise coming from the pump. kinda hard to describe but it is not the sound of liquid. already tried shaking it off no avail. looks like i have to return this. the corsair panel on the h100 tore off too when i removed the plastic cover. would have been ok but the noise at the pump is annoying.


----------



## longroadtrip

I would definitely return it if the cover came off. That would annoy me to no end every time I looked at it. As far as the noise, could just be air bubbles being worked through the pump, but not sure. It wouldn't matter to me, because it would be going back anyways because of the cover plate coming off.


----------



## Nethermir

broken panel dont bother as that can be fixed but the noise on the pump is becoming unbearable heh. rma'd. i wonder if im gonna get better temps with a new unit. i only got an average of 5C drop on temps switching from H60.


----------



## longroadtrip

Hope it all works out for you!


----------



## saidpour676

Love my H70 <3









Btw my H70 was mounted in a really ****ed place.I had to drill a GIANT hole for the Rad on the top of my case.Worked out really good









Ghettoness FTW!!


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nethermir*


curse you for shooting my hopes down lol. in short im wrong. p/p won't fit inside unless you do some sort of mod/squishing/bending.










the problem is the 8-pin socket, looks like there is more or less only 20mm clearance. the 4-pin and 3-pin fan isn't much of a problem so long as you don't use it.


Sigh....

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Flip your fans over. You're fighting natural convection with Intake since heat rises. Having Run my H50 setup at the top of my 932, I'm pretty confident you should see a little better temp. So you might as well stop fighting physics and flip em.









~Ceadder










According to Corsair George and some other sources, overcoming the natural movement of warm air is no problem. The force of the fans is way greater than the force of convection so that should not be taken into account when planning your air flow. Some cases operate better with an intake at the top, especially those that have video cards that exhaust into the case.

http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...-club-252.html

http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...-club-202.html

Both those threads have related discussions. They're not the only place I've heard people discussing it and saying their temps were reduced when they changed the top to intake in their case. I'm not saying it's good for every situation, but each case and build should be evaluated on it's own merits.
However I have also been wondering about fan orientation for the H100. I just got mine but have not installed it yet. I am doing another temp set before I switch. I don't want the fans to be "pull", but if they have to go on the top, and I want exhaust (due to dust considerations) I don't see what choice I have. I will definitely check Ceadderman's idea about installing the bottom fans first and then installing the assembly. I think it's worth a try, but I'm not holding my breath.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*


Sigh....

According to Corsair George and some other sources, overcoming the natural movement of warm air is no problem. The force of the fans is way greater than the force of convection so that should not be taken into account when planning your air flow. Some cases operate better with an intake at the top, especially those that have video cards that exhaust into the case.

http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...-club-252.html

http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...-club-202.html

Both those threads have related discussions. They're not the only place I've heard people discussing it and saying their temps were reduced when they changed the top to intake in their case. I'm not saying it's good for every situation, but each case and build should be evaluated on it's own merits.
However I have also been wondering about fan orientation for the H100. I just got mine but have not installed it yet. I am doing another temp set before I switch. I don't want the fans to be "pull", but if they have to go on the top, and I want exhaust (due to dust considerations) I don't see what choice I have. I will definitely check Ceadderman's idea about installing the bottom fans first and then installing the assembly. I think it's worth a try, but I'm not holding my breath.


what's the sigh for


----------



## Uncivilised

Purchased the h70 but im not exactly impressed. I used to own a cnps10x performa (running stock fan at the time) and the h70 only performs around 3oC better while being twice as loud. I still had lots of headroom anyway (52oC load @ 4 on h70) so im running 4.2GHz at 1.37v at around 58-60 loads with the h70 but in the 70's while priming. Still very good temps but disappointed because of the minimal difference. It idles very high (at 40oC) because if i tune my fan controller up it gets way too loud as my fans are 3000rpm ea.
Overall id give this a 7/10 at best, its a nice product but definately note amazing, if noise is a big issue then just get the dh14 or the megahalems. I only purchased the h70 because my Pi ram is rediculously high, turns out the upgrade was not that significant. Just thought i would share my story to the people that are in a dilema.


----------



## Ceadderman

Try different fans. You can get Yate Loons UBER CHEAP, which have a really good Static Pressure rate. You might give them a try in Medium Speed Silents at this time of year for you in New Zealand. During the Summer months I would suggest High Speed Silents and a fan controller, if you aren't running one already.









~Ceadder


----------



## Uncivilised

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14516033*
> Try different fans. You can get Yate Loons UBER CHEAP, which have a really good Static Pressure rate. You might give them a try in Medium Speed Silents at this time of year for you in New Zealand. During the Summer months I would suggest High Speed Silents and a fan controller, if you aren't running one already.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


My fans run at 3000rpm and i can definately tell you that they have immense pressure, they are easily comparable to kaze's. Might try some of those yate loons my mate has (Yate Loon D12SM-12) but i doubt the static pressure and cfm is superior to mine.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Uncivilised;14516383*
> My fans run at 3000rpm and i can definately tell you that they have immense pressure, they are easily comparable to kaze's. Might try some of those yate loons my mate has (Yate Loon D12SM-12) but i doubt the static pressure and cfm is superior to mine.


Speed of the fans really don't mean anything with Radiators imho. I changed from D12SH-124R to D12SM-124R and maintained a shroud in both P/P setups and didn't see much of a change in temps(+/-) during the Spring. But changing over allowed me the opportunity to throw in my Controller for the Summer. I'd still be on the H50, but my testing the waters with my H50 led me to crave even cooler temps. Especially since my NB ran pretty high without having a fan sucking air into the area the way the Stock cooler and Air Coolers do. I've got my FC block and my CPU block and am just about ready to step away from the Stock cooler for good. The one thing that I'm going to miss about the Hydro Series is not having to do much in the way of maintenance to it. Other than cleaning out the dust bunnies from the bottom of the Radiator that is.









Anyway, you might be surprised as to the benefits of [email protected]$$ Yate Loons. I've still got some and when I go with a 360, that's my first fan of choice. D12SH-124R connected to a 3 way splitter and hooked up to my RheoSmart controller.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Nightz2k

I'm using 2 of the cheap high speed Yate Loon D12SH-12 fans, they seem to work out ok for the H70. _(Better than what I had before anyway)_

Set it up to a 4.8GHz overclock @1.35v, it got up to 72-76c range with prime blend testing for about 10 mins. _(32-34c idle)_ Ambient temps were around 22-23c, give or take with the A/C going.

Still at respectable temps IMO.


----------



## Uncivilised

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14516551*
> Speed of the fans really don't mean anything with Radiators imho. I changed from D12SH-124R to D12SM-124R and maintained a shroud in both P/P setups and didn't see much of a change in temps(+/-) during the Spring. But changing over allowed me the opportunity to throw in my Controller for the Summer. I'd still be on the H50, but my testing the waters with my H50 led me to crave even cooler temps. Especially since my NB ran pretty high without having a fan sucking air into the area the way the Stock cooler and Air Coolers do. I've got my FC block and my CPU block and am just about ready to step away from the Stock cooler for good. The one thing that I'm going to miss about the Hydro Series is not having to do much in the way of maintenance to it. Other than cleaning out the dust bunnies from the bottom of the Radiator that is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, you might be surprised as to the benefits of [email protected]$$ Yate Loons. I've still got some and when I go with a 360, that's my first fan of choice. D12SH-124R connected to a 3 way splitter and hooked up to my RheoSmart controller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I know rpm is not necessarily the most important part of a fan for a radiator but it is a good indication of relative static pressure. Its hard to find specs for my fans but they are a lot better than any yate loon 120x25 yate loon that i can purchase or find. Trust me i can feel these things from half way across the room, the h70 didnt really live it up for me. The reality is that the massive radiator doesnt decrease the temps by a huge amount because the design is bottlenecked by the pump and tubing. It isnt bad, its just not exactly what i expected i guess....


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Uncivilised;14517276*
> I know rpm is not necessarily the most important part of a fan for a radiator but it is a good indication of relative static pressure. Its hard to find specs for my fans but they are a lot better than any yate loon 120x25 yate loon that i can purchase or find. Trust me i can feel these things from half way across the room, the h70 didnt really live it up for me. The reality is that the massive radiator doesnt decrease the temps by a huge amount because the design is bottlenecked by the pump and tubing. It isnt bad, its just not exactly what i expected i guess....


Time for you to get into real custom watercooling then! At least you can either sell your H70, or use the rad for your loop.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;14515074*
> what's the sigh for


That was because you told me a push/pull H100 will not fit in a Corsair 600T case. Sorta dashed my hopes there.

However, I have my H100 installed now as...push/pull. Lol, I did a little modding and got a push pull setup.

Even though I loved my H70. It gave be great temps under loads. I have posted them quite a bit in the Graphite thread, but any cooler that will give you~20c cooler than stock, while overclocking by 1/3 is a good cooler in my book. Of course I read about it before I bought it and knew it is competitive with high end air coolers, not full water loops.

The H100 seems to be giving me about ~8c drop in CPU temps over the H70.

I was reading a thread where Corsair George mentioned that the most important fan to have good static pressure for is the push fan, while the pull fan is not as important. I was considering how to connect the fans in the H100, I was going to pair the stock fans push/pull and the Scythe high speed PWM fans I was using on my H70 as push/pull. However, I decided to use the Scythe fans as pull and the stock H100 fans as push (since they're supposed to have a great static pressure). I modded the front of my case at the top to make room for another fan, allowing me to move the entire H100 assembly one fan length forward.
I had tried Ceadderman's suggestion of installing the bottom fans first and it almost worked. It cleared all my board components except the actual block/pump. The block was just too thick so the only option to keep push/pull was the mod.

Here's a few pics:

Mucho fans on top now:









Cover still fits:









Completed install:









Closeup:









I had to orient the block this way to avoid a row of capacitors over the CPU socket.

I will post some temps tomorrow. I did a 20 minute run tonight (prime95 and furmark), and I was getting 51c with my fans turned down. Yesterday I was getting 61c with my fans turned down using the H70. I believe we have a 2c cooler ambient tonight so that's a 8c difference.

I will post temps and screenshots tomorrow.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*


That was because you told me a push/pull H100 will not fit in a Corsair 600T case. Sorta dashed my hopes there.

However, I have my H100 installed now as...push/pull. Lol, I did a little modding and got a push pull setup.


nice one, at least you have a spare room for a third fan







that can be done with the 650d without cutting through metal


----------



## [email protected]

Well you're lucky you got it easy. I cannot order one due to the fact hearing it doesn't fit Antec 1200 and i don't wanna replace my bad boy fan for just that cooler cuz heat rises. I may have to consider a new tower in the future but i don't wanna get anything. I wish Corsair could have invented a special sealed cooler where you can de-attach the tubes and re-attach them to your liking cuz most cases have hole ports ready for custom water cooling. I would most much like to see self sealed coolants to be mounted on the back rear of most cases instead of having to install it inside if you cannot take them off.

I know custom water is the only way to go but i lack the idea of maintenance anyways. I clean my filters but doing distilled water cleaning is just too much hassle for me. Just my 2 cent. Growl.. i want a H100.


----------



## gessay

Is it wise to get a Fan Controller for the H70 to increase the RPMs a bit and possibly get lower temps? I've tried searching around and a couple people said not to get Fan controllers for the H70, but I really can't find any info on it.

Right now I'm currently running stock H70 fans and not looking to upgrade the fans, just wondering if it's ok to use a fan controller? Also, any recommendations? I would need it to fit in the 3.5" bay as I have my H70 modded to intake from the front area where my 5.25" bays are.


----------



## Erper

ive installed i5 and my idle temp is 24c???
how about ur temps


----------



## gessay

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erper*


ive installed i5 and my idle temp is 24c???
how about ur temps


My idle temps w/ my 2600k are around 30C. Don't forget that these chips have Turbo Boost so when your CPU is idling it is underclocked. While my cpu is idling it is at 1600mhz.


----------



## Erper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gessay*


My idle temps w/ my 2600k are around 30C. Don't forget that these chips have Turbo Boost so when your CPU is idling it is underclocked. While my cpu is idling it is at 1600mhz.


mine is also idling at 1600mhz..
no tpu, no epu on...


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gessay*


My idle temps w/ my 2600k are around 30C. Don't forget that these chips have Turbo Boost so when your CPU is idling it is underclocked. While my cpu is idling it is at 1600mhz.


Thats not not turbo boost, thats speed step. Turbo boost overclocks one core to 4.6 (2600k), and speed step underclocks your CPU according to what windows sees.


----------



## gessay

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicolasl46*


Thats not not turbo boost, thats speed step. Turbo boost overclocks one core to 4.6 (2600k), and speed step underclocks your CPU according to what windows sees.


ahh yes, sorry.


----------



## nicolasl46

Don't be, thats how I learned LOL


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


Well you're lucky you got it easy. I cannot order one due to the fact hearing it doesn't fit Antec 1200 and i don't wanna replace my bad boy fan for just that cooler cuz heat rises. I may have to consider a new tower in the future but i don't wanna get anything. I wish Corsair could have invented a special sealed cooler where you can de-attach the tubes and re-attach them to your liking cuz most cases have hole ports ready for custom water cooling. I would most much like to see self sealed coolants to be mounted on the back rear of most cases instead of having to install it inside if you cannot take them off.

I know custom water is the only way to go but i lack the idea of maintenance anyways. I clean my filters but doing distilled water cleaning is just too much hassle for me. Just my 2 cent. Growl.. i want a H100.


Now that would be cool if their manufacturer teamed up with Koolance to do do QD fittings. All end user would have to do is mount to the back/top/front and run the hoses to the CPU. Really wouldn't want it the hoses attached to the block since it could be awkward trying to get them to attach to the Radiator.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gessay*


Is it wise to get a Fan Controller for the H70 to increase the RPMs a bit and possibly get lower temps? I've tried searching around and a couple people said not to get Fan controllers for the H70, but I really can't find any info on it.

Right now I'm currently running stock H70 fans and not looking to upgrade the fans, just wondering if it's ok to use a fan controller? Also, any recommendations? I would need it to fit in the 3.5" bay as I have my H70 modded to intake from the front area where my 5.25" bays are.


Fan controllers work fine on the H70. I don't know why anyone would tell you not to use one.

However, a fan controller is not going to increase the speed of the fans. The H70 fans are rated at 1900 RPM and a fan controller will not increase that.

If you are using the cables with the resistors in them, remove them. The resistors will run the fans at about 1600 RPM, removing them will bring the fans up to 1900 RPM.

If you want higher RPM and static pressure you will have to change the fans.

There's a great list of fans in the OP (page 1). If you're only interested in more cooling and higher flow, you should try and get the highest static pressure you can get in a high flow fan. Just remember they're usually noisy at higher speeds.

Adding a fan controller so you can adjust the speeds is really a no brainer. Go tell that to the people who told you not to use a controller on the H70. Tell them that before giving advice they should know something about it.


----------



## gessay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;14533673*
> However, a fan controller is not going to increase the speed of the fans. The H70 fans are rated at 1900 RPM and a fan controller will not increase that.
> 
> If you want higher RPM and static pressure you will have to change the fans.


Damn. I really didn't want to change the fans...oh well, maybe at a later date


----------



## Zangetsu

i just build my rig 2 days ago and im having troubles , im not sure if its the H70 or psu

my rig sometimes start and sometimes don't.
When my rig start the H70 its silent.
When my rig doesn't start the H70 is loud

and my CPU Temp says 51 at BIOS is it a normal temp with H70 and i7 2600k?should be more lower ?

anyone could help here


----------



## Erper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zangetsu*


i just build my rig 2 days ago and im having troubles , im not sure if its the H70 or psu

my rig sometimes start and sometimes don't.
When my rig start the H70 its silent.
When my rig doesn't start the H70 is loud

and my CPU Temp says 51 at BIOS is it a normal temp with H70 and i7 2600k?should be more lower ?

anyone could help here










try reseat it and check temps again...
as for loudness thats normal


----------



## Zangetsu

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erper*


try reseat it and check temps again...
as for loudness thats normal


well i think you didn't directly answer my questions =/

I wanna know why sometimes my rig start and sometimes don't,if it has something with the H70


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zangetsu;14540858*
> i just build my rig 2 days ago and im having troubles , im not sure if its the H70 or psu
> 
> my rig sometimes start and sometimes don't.
> When my rig start the H70 its silent.
> When my rig doesn't start the H70 is loud
> 
> and my CPU Temp says 51 at BIOS is it a normal temp with H70 and i7 2600k?should be more lower ?
> 
> anyone could help here


My H70 didn't make any noise at all (other than the fans). I have an H50 in another case that's louder than the H70.

I think you should reseat it for sure. Something's not right. If you have a multimeter you can easily measure the PSU. Make sure everything is plugged in snug and reseat the H70 to make sure is has good contact with the CPU. 51 in the BIOS is not killer hot, but I would expect it to be lower since the system is idling. It's hard to say, but the H70 definitely should not be loud (other than the fans). One of them will have to be subbed if you have no meter.

I have completed my H70 vs H100 comparison. The complete story is on this page:

http://www.overclock.net/computer-cases/831636-official-corsair-graphite-club-266.html#post14541003

So I don't duplicate everything here I'll just provide the link. I am getting a 7c difference between the H70 and the H100 loaded. For further detail see the link.


----------



## ichow23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nethermir*


hmm weird. i have some noise coming from the pump. kinda hard to describe but it is not the sound of liquid. already tried shaking it off no avail. looks like i have to return this. the corsair panel on the h100 tore off too when i removed the plastic cover. would have been ok but the noise at the pump is annoying.


I have the same noise coming from my pump 2...so weird. I guess I'll have to RMA as well.


----------



## Zangetsu

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*


My H70 didn't make any noise at all (other than the fans). I have an H50 in another case that's louder than the H70.

I think you should reseat it for sure. Something's not right. If you have a multimeter you can easily measure the PSU. Make sure everything is plugged in snug and reseat the H70 to make sure is has good contact with the CPU. 51 in the BIOS is not killer hot, but I would expect it to be lower since the system is idling. It's hard to say, but the H70 definitely should not be loud (other than the fans). One of them will have to be subbed if you have no meter.

I have completed my H70 vs H100 comparison. The complete story is on this page:

http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...l#post14541003

So I don't duplicate everything here I'll just provide the link. I am getting a 7c difference between the H70 and the H100 loaded. For further detail see the link.


i reseat the H70 2times but i still get 51c at bios temperature...
well i dont know if my rig gonna start the thing sometimes turn on and sometimes don't....


----------



## Zangetsu

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*


My H70 didn't make any noise at all (other than the fans). I have an H50 in another case that's louder than the H70.

I think you should reseat it for sure. Something's not right. If you have a multimeter you can easily measure the PSU. Make sure everything is plugged in snug and reseat the H70 to make sure is has good contact with the CPU. 51 in the BIOS is not killer hot, but I would expect it to be lower since the system is idling. It's hard to say, but the H70 definitely should not be loud (other than the fans). One of them will have to be subbed if you have no meter.

I have completed my H70 vs H100 comparison. The complete story is on this page:

http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...l#post14541003

So I don't duplicate everything here I'll just provide the link. I am getting a 7c difference between the H70 and the H100 loaded. For further detail see the link.


i try to test my cpu temp with speedfan and i got this :

GPU 39C
Temp1 40C
Temp2 -13C
Temp3 34C
Remote 1 -111C
Remote 2 -111C
Local 37C
Temp 2C
HD0 38C

im kinda lost using this software , what those "-" means? is it bad to have - on cpu temp?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ichow23*


I have the same noise coming from my pump 2...so weird. I guess I'll have to RMA as well.










Wow first post since you joined 2 years ago? Amazing.









Try flicking the tubes or removing the rad and shaking it up a bit. I've also experienced pump buzzing when one or two of the 4 screws for the block were not as tightly screwed as the others.


----------



## 0mar32

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kokin*


wow first post since you joined 2 years ago? Amazing.










lol


----------



## ninposam

I had the same problem with noise when i got my H60, flick the pipes tilt the case to the side and so on.
After 2 or 3 weeks it has now stopped and its running like a dream


----------



## kcuestag

Is this going to be the H80/H100 owners club as well? Would be nice.









Here's mine;










I regretted a bit not waiting for the H100, then realized I didn't even need one, not to mention it won't fit on top of my case.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ichow23*


I have the same noise coming from my pump 2...so weird. I guess I'll have to RMA as well.










if you are sure that it is not liquid rushing through, then rma it. like i said, the sound coming from my pump isn't that of liquid, it sounds like a ticking motor running on low speeds or that of a crank turning slowly coupled by the sound of liquid. everything is plugged in to molex for full speed. very, very audible and didn't go away after a week of good shaking.

i got a replacement and this second unit runs flawlessly right off the bat. i got a very noticeable 1~2C temp drop on this good unit. no noise, just the sound of liquid for a few minutes and everything is dead silent now. except for the nice whirr of the gt-ap15s. but we all love that sound









Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


Is this going to be the H80/H100 owners club as well? Would be nice.









Here's mine;










I regretted a bit not waiting for the H100, then realized I didn't even need one, not to mention it won't fit on top of my case.










i think this club covers all hydro series? but op is not around i think. nice rig too


----------



## ichow23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


Wow first post since you joined 2 years ago? Amazing.









Try flicking the tubes or removing the rad and shaking it up a bit. I've also experienced pump buzzing when one or two of the 4 screws for the block were not as tightly screwed as the others.


So many forums so little time! Weird, so it seems like if I lay my case flat (horizontally), the pump doesn't make that "ticking motor" sound, but when it's vertical it does. I'll try the techniques you guys have mentioned.

Thanks for the help, I appreciate it and hopefully I'll get this baby fixed.


----------



## ninposam

Thats what mine did, if i held the case tilted over to one side the nosie would stop.
Tilt it over and give the case a little shake every so often my noise has now gone and its running great.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zangetsu;14541831*
> i try to test my cpu temp with speedfan and i got this :
> 
> GPU 39C
> Temp1 40C
> Temp2 -13C
> Temp3 34C
> Remote 1 -111C
> Remote 2 -111C
> Local 37C
> Temp 2C
> HD0 38C
> 
> im kinda lost using this software , what those "-" means? is it bad to have - on cpu temp?


Speedfan isn't always reliable for every manufacturer. I get some very odd voltage values on my board. Ask around in some mobo threads and see if someone can match up your board sensors with what speedfan says.

Make sure your pump is running at full tilt. I think for the H70 it should be running at 1400 RPM. If you have it plugged into a fan header on your mobo, make sure you have disabled fan control in BIOS so the pump runs at 100% all the time.

Can't help you with your intermittent startup problem. Perhaps in the motherboard manufacturers forums?


----------



## Badboyz

My setup 








my load test result @ 4.2ghz room temp is 28-30 (dont know even running prime 95 it don't show 4.2ghz







any 1 help me on this plzzz)


----------



## Ceadderman

Killhouse is around still. He's even updated the title of the Group to "Hydro Series" so yes it covers every Corsair AIO system. Just have to add yourself in the OP clicking the link above the Google.doc.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tatakai All

Just installed mine last night.


----------



## chip94

Hey,
I've got a silverstone FM212 and the stock corsair fan In a push/pull config config. the Silverstone can rev upto 2200rpm. 
Currently, the FM212 is pushing and the stock H50 fan is pulling.

Is this set up ok? I run the FM212 at a max of 2000 sometimes while stress testing other wise its on 1500-1700 so that the stock h50 fan doesnt exceed its rpm.

Or should I put the stock H50 as push and the FM212 as pull?

Thanks


----------



## Bobo888

Hello, I'm new to watercooling and I'm consideing modding a h50 after seeing the guides in this thread, but I have a few questions I need to ask.
1. Do I need any specific tubing or is cheap pvc tubing from ebay ok? (it's the only place I can find 6mm (1/4") ID tubing in the UK)
2. Can I use a premixed coolant without any major problems as distilled water is also hard to find in the UK?
3. Do I need to completely clean out the h50 parts before adding the new fluid?
4. I have 2 h50s, can I use both rads/pumps in one loop?


----------



## Erper

easiest way man


----------



## Ceadderman

How much salt is needed though? Saltwater is around the sea but not everyone is around it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kieran

Hi, i've heard that this TIM is better than the stock TIM on the H50
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/...pid-10148.html

I will be remounting my H50 in a couple of days due to me getting a new case. Would it be best to get some of this or do i just replace the stock TIM (if anyone stocks it in the UK).


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kieran*


Hi, i've heard that this TIM is better than the stock TIM on the H50
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/...pid-10148.html

I will be remounting my H50 in a couple of days due to me getting a new case. Would it be best to get some of this or do i just replace the stock TIM (if anyone stocks it in the UK).


It's not. Check the link in my sig. Stock TIM is Shin Etsu G751. Unfortunately it's put on a little thick.

So if you have a new Hydro Cooler I would suggext getting a razor and scrape off as much as you can get off the plate. Take it and put it on a piece of cellophane and rolling it into a ball making sure to squeeze out any air. Once you have it rolled into a ball, you can see how much to pinch off and finalize it by adding it in the middle and allowing the Pump to do the spread.









Make sure to get a tube of this stuff if you can for re-seating later on.









~Ceadder


----------



## Prugor

Ordering tonight. Going to do something mildly ******ed, but since I'm a fan of the fesser/triebwerk fans, I'm going to order four of the high rpm ones. They offer 5.60 for static pressure. I have the space in the front of my tj07, just have to get some more filter material.

New mobo, CPU, and memory as well. Grabbed one of the middle ranged msi z68 motherboard. I have an Intel mx25 here that I am going to use as the cache drive for a 150 gig captor from a previous build. Might be a waste, but I'm curious if it will perform with the best of both worlds.

I'll report back with some pictures and screen shots of temps and build.

In zip ties we trust.

Evo'd & Tapatalked


----------



## seesee

I don't understand why my H70 is getting nosier each day. Anyone experience this? I'm lazy to open it up because I am busy with school and work.


----------



## tvm777

Hi guys, im seeing to buy an h50 or h60, but i dont decide wich its better FOR MODDING/TEMPS, i want to mod(any of two) with another extra radiator, waterblock and a pump(aquarium fish pump btw).

So what of these do you recommend to me?
(i was searching on guides and all stuff, but i just cant decide)
Please help








Thanks


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tvm777*


Hi guys, im seeing to buy an h50 or h60, but i dont decide wich its better FOR MODDING/TEMPS, i want to mod(any of two) with another extra radiator, waterblock and a pump(aquarium fish pump btw).

So what of these do you recommend to me?
(i was searching on guides and all stuff, but i just cant decide)
Please help








Thanks


I suggest the H50, seeing as how it's very moddable and there are plenty of tutorials on the web.









~Ceadder


----------



## tat2monsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobo888;14557578*
> 2. Can I use a premixed coolant without any major problems as distilled water is also hard to find in the UK?


where in the UK are you? i have my own water distiller at work..
you pay postage..i will send you as much as you want!

p.s that goes for anyone else in the UK
it is a proper distilling unit. i allso got a new one turning up this week.


----------



## tvm777

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


I suggest the H50, seeing as how it's very moddable and there are plenty of tutorials on the web.









~Ceadder










thanks for answer







, my other question its could be possible use a fish aquarium pump like this:

http://img.mercadolibre.com.pe/jm/im...16757_3101.jpg
http://img.mercadolibre.com.pe/jm/im...16757_5874.jpg
http://img.mercadolibre.com.pe/jm/im...16757_5937.jpg

in their page says:
http://www.newsobo.com/ArticleShow.asp?ArticleID=1088
(lot of chinese stuff, BUT USEFUL info)
Model: 
SB-248A Watts??
3W ???
3.5L/min

Can i use this pump with an external reservoir and a h50?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tvm777*


thanks for answer







, my other question its could be possible use a fish aquarium pump like this:

http://img.mercadolibre.com.pe/jm/im...16757_3101.jpg
http://img.mercadolibre.com.pe/jm/im...16757_5874.jpg
http://img.mercadolibre.com.pe/jm/im...16757_5937.jpg

in their page says:
http://www.newsobo.com/ArticleShow.asp?ArticleID=1088
(lot of chinese stuff, BUT USEFUL info)
Model: 
SB-248A Watts??
3W ???
3.5L/min

Can i use this pump with an external reservoir and a h50?


If that's a typical aquarium pump then I'd have to say no, it won't work for what you're wanting to do. The reason is that aquarium pumps are used to circulate water with air. The impeller isn't sealed for moisture which is what you're wanting to boost the flow rate of the liquid in your mod.

Get something like this...










bmaverick is selling D35-1T pumps in marketplace for a really good price. You can get a top for it that can be the Res portion that you see above for ~$40 before shipping and tax.

So if you want to increase the flow rate that's the way to go.









~Ceadder


----------



## tvm777

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


If that's a typical aquarium pump then I'd have to say no, it won't work for what you're wanting to do. The reason is that aquarium pumps are used to circulate water with air. The impeller isn't sealed for moisture which is what you're wanting to boost the flow rate of the liquid in your mod.

Get something like this...










bmaverick is selling D35-1T pumps in marketplace for a really good price. You can get a top for it that can be the Res portion that you see above for ~$40 before shipping and tax.

So if you want to increase the flow rate that's the way to go.









~Ceadder










Oh! thanks for the such useful information, i wasnt even warned about the air on the pumps.
I think i'll have to wait, i just got 40 bucks for the h50, and i'll have to wait for other stuff, still keep in mind all the modding to the h50








thanks a lot ceadder


----------



## NFL

Got the H100, had some motherboard issues but now everything is working and I can bask in the awesomeness of the H100.



















Configured as exhaust, with 4x Scythe Slipstreams in push/pull

max temps: 54c, 57c, 59c, 56c


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chip94*


Hey,
I've got a silverstone FM212 and the stock corsair fan In a push/pull config config. the Silverstone can rev upto 2200rpm. 
Currently, the FM212 is pushing and the stock H50 fan is pulling...

...Or should I put the stock H50 as push and the FM212 as pull?

Thanks


According to Corsair George, whichever fan has the highest static pressure should be the push fan.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seesee*


I don't understand why my H70 is getting nosier each day. Anyone experience this? I'm lazy to open it up because I am busy with school and work.


I was running an H70 for about 7 months and it never got any louder. I just removed it this week and it was working the same as the day I installed it. What type of noise is it? Have your temperatures changed?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tvm777*


Hi guys, im seeing to buy an h50 or h60, but i dont decide wich its better FOR MODDING/TEMPS, i want to mod(any of two) with another extra radiator, waterblock and a pump(aquarium fish pump btw).

So what of these do you recommend to me?
(i was searching on guides and all stuff, but i just cant decide)
Please help








Thanks


The H60 is incrementally better, but it's more expensive too. The H50 is great and could likely do as good a job within a couple of degrees. Personally, I would go with which ever one you can get cheaper (likely the H50) so if you have an accident it won't cost as much. Although I do like the lower profile pumps of the newer coolers...


----------



## tvm777

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*


According to Corsair George, whichever fan has the highest static pressure should be the push fan.

I was running an H70 for about 7 months and it never got any louder. I just removed it this week and it was working the same as the day I installed it. What type of noise is it? Have your temperatures changed?

The H60 is incrementally better, but it's more expensive too. The H50 is great and could likely do as good a job within a couple of degrees. Personally, I would go with which ever one you can get cheaper (likely the H50) so if you have an accident it won't cost as much. Although I do like the lower profile pumps of the newer coolers...


thanks for the answer, actually im getting the h50 for sure








i saw the answer you gave to mergatroid; and i wonder how i can know wich fan has the highest static pressure??


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tvm777*


thanks for the answer, actually im getting the h50 for sure








i saw the answer you gave to mergatroid; and i wonder how i can know wich fan has the highest static pressure??


If you go by this: http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?p=3746561

The stock H50 fan has a static pressure of 3.57mm h20.

I can't find any Sliverstone FM212 on Silverstone's site. Can you link to them? Static pressure is usually listed in the specifications. These FM121 fans:
http://www.silverstonetek.com/produc...id=118&area=en
have a static pressure of 3.26mm h20 so the H50 fan is actually a little better. It will depend on the spec of the FM212.


----------



## BlackVenom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFL;14572553*
> Got the H100, had some motherboard issues but now everything is working and I can bask in the awesomeness of the H100.
> 
> -snip-
> 
> Configured as exhaust, with 4x Scythe Slipstreams in push/pull
> 
> max temps: 54c, 57c, 59c, 56c


Could you post more pix, please? Was it difficult at all to get the h100 in your 932? Thanks!


----------



## tvm777

Hi ppl, now i've see there are two version of H50, right?

this its good one? or worst?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181010


----------



## Tatakai All

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackVenom;14576627*
> Could you post more pix, please? Was it difficult at all to get the h100 in your 932? Thanks!


No it actually quite easy since the 932 has a ton of space.


----------



## BlackVenom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tatakai All;14576886*
> No it actually quite easy since the 932 has a ton of space.


Yea I figured that, but how does it screw in? The top isn't designed for 120mm "fans"


----------



## reaper~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackVenom;14579603*
> Yea I figured that, but how does it screw in? The top isn't designed for 120mm "fans"


Really? I can put up to 3 x 120mm fans up there.


----------



## BlackVenom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reaper~*


Really? I can put up to 3 x 120mm fans up there.











Oh, cool. I was under the impression that they wouldn't fit.


----------



## tvm777

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tvm777*


Hi ppl, now i've see there are two version of H50, right?

this it's the good one? or worst? 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835181010



any answer?


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tvm777*


any answer?


There should be no worse one in terms of performance. Also, IMO, you should get 2 better fans and replace the 1 stock fan to get the best out of the H50.

I'm not sure why there is 2 different versions of it, maybe it's the mounting system for more options, like mounting in a 1155/1156 motherboard. _(Someone else may know more, I'm just guessing)_


----------



## reaper~

^ The first release of the H50 had a part number of CWCH50 and it shipped with Intel 775 and 1366 brackets, AMD AM2/AM3 and Intel 1156 brackets are available separately on Corsair's webstore if you need them. The current model of the H50 is the CWCH50-1 and it now includes all brackets (Intel 775, 1156, 1366, AMD AM2, AM3) in the box.

From H50's FAQ.


----------



## tvm777

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nightz2k*


There should be no worse one in terms of performance. Also, IMO, you should get 2 better fans and replace the 1 stock fan to get the best out of the H50.

I'm not sure why there is 2 different versions of it, maybe it's the mounting system for more options, like mounting in a 1155/1156 motherboard. _(Someone else may know more, I'm just guessing)_


Hmm i think there are more differences, cuz in newegg the $$ difference its like 15 bucks, maybe less, but i dont think they make you pay 15 bucks for the tools, and as far i know, h50 comes with tools and brackets for most of intel/amd systems


----------



## tvm777

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reaper~*


^ The first release of the H50 had a part number of CWCH50 and it shipped with Intel 775 and 1366 brackets, AMD AM2/AM3 and Intel 1156 brackets are available separately on Corsair's webstore if you need them. The current model of the H50 is the CWCH50-1 and it now includes all brackets (Intel 775, 1156, 1366, AMD AM2, AM3) in the box.

From H50's FAQ.



Wow! that's 15 bucks only for the brackets, expensive as i see.
Anyway thanks


----------



## reaper~

Welcome.


----------



## Nightz2k

So I was thinking right basically.







At least we now know the full details on why thanks to reaper.


----------



## Zerogamer22

ok i plan to get a different fan for my h50 i need a recommend before i buy it. just pull and push. send me a mgs private for the link i cant catch new post that soo fast for this topic to be popular lol


----------



## [email protected]

Any more Antec 1200 owners with H100? Would love to see more improvements how to mount it besides the ones i seen who done it by replacing the bad boy fan,i wonder if it's easier to mount the Dark Fleet since there is no Bad Boy fan?


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah I'm pretty sure that the first one actually comes with both Intel and AMD mounting kits. I got the original one and that's the way it came when I got it. Not really sure why the difference in price much past that since I've not gotten the next model.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tatakai All

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackVenom*


Oh, cool. I was under the impression that they wouldn't fit.


Nope they'll fit no problem, I've got four up there.


----------



## Beb12682

I put my radiator in the front...


----------



## lupin_

Going to throw this one out there as I have just had a board fail.

What are peoples thoughts on the fact that there is no airflow with these coolers over the rest of the board.

Gigabyte use this picture to show the air flow.










Now I do not have that air flow over my board, just the airflow through the case. Has this been part of the cause of my failure?

I do think my failure was my own doing from too much voltage, but it would be interesting to see what people think.


----------



## Rb78

Anyone know if the h80/h100 fits on asus maximus formula III ?

---
- Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BlackVenom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lupin_;14586010*
> Going to throw this one out there as I have just had a board fail.
> 
> What are peoples thoughts on the fact that there is no airflow with these coolers over the rest of the board.
> 
> Gigabyte use this picture to show the air flow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I do not have that air flow over my board, just the airflow through the case. Has this been part of the cause of my failure?
> 
> I do think my failure was my own doing from too much voltage, but it would be interesting to see what people think.


Air flow in the case should suffice. Most after market coolers are vertical err.. horizontal.. depends on how you look at it but the fins run parallel with the mobo. THis and with pipes as they are now, lift the sink up an inch or so. Fans push and/or pull air through the sink and out to the abyss. What I'm saying is most after market sinks don't operate like the stocker in that picture - no direct airflow to the mof/nb/etc... Do you not have a side intake?


----------



## Erper

@:Rb78

yep
Compatibility:

Intel

LGA 2011
LGA 1366
LGA 1156
LGA 1155
LGA 775


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackVenom*


Air flow in the case should suffice. Most after market coolers are vertical err.. horizontal.. depends on how you look at it but the fins run parallel with the mobo. THis and with pipes as they are now, lift the sink up an inch or so. Fans push and/or pull air through the sink and out to the abyss. What I'm saying is most after market sinks don't operate like the stocker in that picture - no direct airflow to the mof/nb/etc... Do you not have a side intake?


Some board-makers actually provide optional heatsink fans for the VRM/NB heatsinks, for use with watercooling setups. I have a huge side fan on my case, so I don't bother with those.


----------



## BlackVenom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luchog;14594465*
> Some board-makers actually provide optional heatsink fans for the VRM/NB heatsinks, for use with watercooling setups. I have a huge side fan on my case, so I don't bother with those.


A nice 250mm fan I see. : )

Even if I wc'd I'd have fans.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackVenom;14598248*
> A nice 250mm fan I see. : )
> 
> Even if I wc'd I'd have fans.


Til you noticed that the fans weren't doing anything but making your system loud.









I got a FC block so once I've got my cooling system in place I'll be running 3 fans up top(3x120 Rad) Rear Case Exhaust(140) and Front 200. The 3x120 kit and the 200 are going to be controlled by my fan controller while my CPU header will be controlling the Rear 140. Pump is going to run on MoBo power so I can see what my pump speed is.

Personally I'm tired of hearing fans. I'm ready to get it done any time. This stock Cooler is making me balmy.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## BlackVenom

This may be a stupid question, but you don't HAVE to use the on pump/block fan control on the h100, right? I'd much rather use a 5.25" fan controller.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14599336*
> Til you noticed that the fans weren't doing anything but making your system loud.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a FC block so once I've got my cooling system in place I'll be running 3 fans up top(3x120 Rad) Rear Case Exhaust(140) and Front 200. The 3x120 kit and the 200 are going to be controlled by my fan controller while my CPU header will be controlling the Rear 140. Pump is going to run on MoBo power so I can see what my pump speed is.
> 
> Personally I'm tired of hearing fans. I'm ready to get it done any time. This stock Cooler is making me balmy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Nah, i don't mind the noise. The only time my fans are loud my speakers are there to cover them up.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackVenom;14606560*
> This may be a stupid question, but you don't HAVE to use the on pump/block fan control on the h100, right? I'd much rather use a 5.25" fan controller.


you don't have to. i have my fans plugged straight to my psu.


----------



## Tatakai All

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackVenom*


This may be a stupid question, but you don't HAVE to use the on pump/block fan control on the h100, right? I'd much rather use a 5.25" fan controller.

Nah, i don't mind the noise. The only time my fans are loud my speakers are there to cover them up.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nethermir*


you don't have to. i have my fans plugged straight to my psu.


This. I have my push/pull config plugged straight into my psu also.


----------



## NIVEKGNOW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fraudbrand*


In my Obsidian











nice


----------



## NIVEKGNOW

HEHEHE


----------



## Tatakai All

Nice build! Might want to do some cable management though.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackVenom;14606560*
> This may be a stupid question, but you don't HAVE to use the on pump/block fan control on the h100, right? I'd much rather use a 5.25" fan controller.
> 
> Nah, i don't mind the noise. The only time my fans are loud my speakers are there to cover them up.


My system sits on a table right next to my desk off to my right. Speakers or no speakers that stocker fan is quite loud. As were my High Speed Silents when they were going full bore. It's not that I mind it, but with the system right off my right ear it can be a bit annoying at times. Especially on hot days like today.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lupin_*


Going to throw this one out there as I have just had a board fail.

What are peoples thoughts on the fact that there is no airflow with these coolers over the rest of the board.

Gigabyte use this picture to show the air flow.










Now I do not have that air flow over my board, just the airflow through the case. Has this been part of the cause of my failure?

I do think my failure was my own doing from too much voltage, but it would be interesting to see what people think.


There could be something to what you say, especially if you are overclocking the chipset or overvolting. Here is an ASUS chipset cooler (actually their instructions show it going on the voltage regulator heatsinks).










However I would think that if you have good air flow in your case the temp difference won't be that much. I'm using one just like this on my Northbridge.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackVenom*


This may be a stupid question, but you don't HAVE to use the on pump/block fan control on the h100, right? I'd much rather use a 5.25" fan controller.


As others have mentioned you don't need to use the block to control the fans. Keep in mind though that Corsair is coming out with the "Commander" shortly, and you could use it to auto control your fans, and you can create custom ramps and profiles. I am seriously thinking about it for my H100 since I'm using push pull. That's four fans I can't fit on my 5 fan controller.


----------



## [email protected]

Man i wish i can see more H100 users with Antec 1200 towers.


----------



## YangerD

Hey guys, just installed my H70. It was actually quite a pain in the butt to install it on an AMD system. Probably better if it had it's own backplate instead of using the stock AMD one. Anyways, my idle temps are 40C and my load temps are around 58C. Are these temps ok or not? My ambient is around 24C. I used MX-3 for TIM.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *YangerD*


Hey guys, just installed my H70. It was actually quite a pain in the butt to install it on an AMD system. Probably better if it had it's own backplate instead of using the stock AMD one. Anyways, my idle temps are 40C and my load temps are around 58C. Are these temps ok or not? My ambient is around 24C. I used MX-3 for TIM.


Depends on your ambient temp. If it's hot then 58c seems about right. But if you're in a temperate climate 58c is a little high. I thought my 965 was running too hot at 54c the other day.









40c at idle is a solid temp for a CPU with a stock surface though. I'm thinking you might have to do a re-seat. The stock TIM is probably as thick as the TIM on the H50. So you might have to scrape it off and replace it with Shin Etsu G751 if you have any on hand. If not try to stay out of load and pick some up. PPCs' has it and their shipping can get it to you fairly quickly.









~Ceadder


----------



## Prugor

New internal came in on Monday.








Came in today.








came in today.

Replaced my aging Q6600 680 evga Tuesday, going to set the rest up Tuesday on my days off and benchmark all day. I liked the medium speed fans from fesser, so I said fark it, lets get new ones! Pretty my a birthday present to myself.

Evo'd & Tapatalked


----------



## Prugor

Packaging....

Corsair was somewhat cramped, but lay out nice. Fesser, as stout as possible and could take a beating.

Evo'd & Tapatalked


----------



## Tatakai All

Can't wait to see the final pics Prugor.

I finally have some decent pics since my new cam arrived.


----------



## Prugor

I have a tj07, so expect zip ties and not so fantastic cable management.

Evo'd & Tapatalked


----------



## Ceadderman

@Tatakai_All... That's the Universal Advanced Formula Crimson Gloss isn't it?









That color looks so smecsy like that. Might hit my case with a couple coats of that since I have quite a bit left over.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tatakai All

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


@Tatakai_All... That's the Universal Advanced Formula Crimson Gloss isn't it?









That color looks so smecsy like that. Might hit my case with a couple coats of that since I have quite a bit left over.









~Ceadder










Thanks but* it's actually one of the red Mercedes has for their cars. I have a mobile body shop and decided to paint my case this color from one of our chip books.

EDITED*


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tatakai All;14650781*
> Thanks but* it's actually one of the red Mercedes has for their cars. I have a mobile body shop and decided to paint my case this color from one of our chip books.
> 
> EDITED*


Very kewl nonetheless.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Prugor

The threads are very fragile, two stripped on the last fan. Had to use the thicker bolts to get it tight.

Evo'd & Tapatalked


----------



## Ceadderman

What's ur temps like. Those fans look insane.









~Ceadder


----------



## Prugor

I just threw that together and left it covered in the living room. Have no real intention of installing today. I also have to send a fan back. The blade part won't stay in the housing.

Edit

Honestly, I didn't know you could take apart a fan. Going to see what happens when I attempt this after a nap.

Evo'd & Tapatalked


----------



## Patrikc8

im having an issue with my H60 , the pump is pugged into a 3pin fan headr and the stock fan is connected to the 4 pin CPU fan header but in the BIOS and Speed Fan it says my cpu fan is aroun 880-900 RPM, and when i did about a minute of Prime95 the fan speed didnt change. I dont know why it is going only at that speed but i changed it to the 3 pin (tempporarly untill i find a fix) and its running at 1700RPM all the time and is noisy so i was wondering how do i fix this :S , also it wont change the speed when i try to adjust it in speed fan.

I really need help, Thanks!


----------



## Prugor

Check your BIOS to see if CPU fan speed scaling is on?

Evo'd & Tapatalked


----------



## Patrikc8

In bios it say the q fan control is enabled. I have a p8p67 pro board. Not sure what the issue is :S


----------



## Nethermir

here's a nice post front infected rat regarding doing a push/pull on a thick rad/h100 on the 650D http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1097306-corsair-650d-rx240-pics.html

ive thought of doing the same but i wouldnt need a push/pull on my h100.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Patrikc8;14660969*
> im having an issue with my H60 , the pump is pugged into a 3pin fan headr and the stock fan is connected to the 4 pin CPU fan header but in the BIOS and Speed Fan it says my cpu fan is aroun 880-900 RPM, and when i did about a minute of Prime95 the fan speed didnt change. I dont know why it is going only at that speed but i changed it to the 3 pin (tempporarly untill i find a fix) and its running at 1700RPM all the time and is noisy so i was wondering how do i fix this :S , also it wont change the speed when i try to adjust it in speed fan.
> 
> I really need help, Thanks!


I had the exact same problem on two ASUS main boards. Neither one would run the fan on the H50 or the H70 at very high speed. In on case I solved the problem by replacing the board with a Gigabyte. On the 2nd computer I updated the firmware and it seemed to run the fan at a little higher speed.

You can disable the BIOS control on the CPU FAN and run the fan at 100% all the time, or you can pick up a fan controller and control the fan manually.


----------



## Ceadderman

Pshah! It's not the ASUS boards. It's settings in the BIOS. I ran my H50 on my board with zero issues with RPM.

Just make sure the Pump is plugged into a dedicated header like PWR or make sure the header output is set as high as possible. Even Ignore would be a good but I would do this before changing my MoBo for a Cooler.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Patrikc8

I just attached it to my 600t fan controller so it's on full only when I'm gaming ...it's a quick fix


----------



## S.O.S

Can i Join with My H100 ?


----------



## Kieran

Has anyone tried moving to a different case with the H50 pump still mounted to the motherboard?

I'm hoping i can do this when i move from my current case to a HAF 932.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kieran*


Has anyone tried moving to a different case with the H50 pump still mounted to the motherboard?

I'm hoping i can do this when i move from my current case to a HAF 932.


you mean moving your whole motherboard and cooler to a different case? i tried to do that on my H60 but ended up removing it anyway because the i dont like the rad and fan sitting on top of my mobo. im afraid it would nudge those transistors while installing in on the new case.


----------



## Kieran

Yeah that's what i mean. Another option is to buy some IC7 and some articlean cleaner so i can remove the pump and reapply the thermal paste once the motherboard is installed in the HAF 932.


----------



## Ceadderman

Get Shin Etsu G751. It's the same stuff as what the H50 comes with and it's better than IC7.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Kieran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14673890*
> Get Shin Etsu G751. It's the same stuff as what the H50 comes with and it's better than IC7.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


It's much cheaper than IC7 too!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1g-ShinEtsu-G751-Shin-Etsu-G-751-Thermal-Compound-/230658766069?pt=Computing_ComputerComponents_Fans_Heatsinks_SR&hash=item35b45574f5#ht_1156wt_936
Would i need to use the articlean thermal paste remover or will a microfibre cloth work too?


----------



## Nethermir

Plain household alchohol works just fine in removing tim


----------



## Kieran

Ok, thanks for the help








So i need to get some of this - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ISOPROPANOL-IPA-Isopropyl-Alcohol-99-9-Pure-250ml-/180494028268?_trksid=p4012.m1374&_trkparms=algo%3DPI.WATCH%26its%3DC%26itu%3DUCC%26otn%3D12%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D2244590152022195830#ht_1799wt_936, put a bit on a cloth and wipe the existing thermal paste off before i apply the new paste onto the CPU?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kieran;14674562*
> Ok, thanks for the help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So i need to get some of this - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ISOPROPANOL-IPA-Isopropyl-Alcohol-99-9-Pure-250ml-/180494028268?_trksid=p4012.m1374&_trkparms=algo%3DPI.WATCH%26its%3DC%26itu%3DUCC%26otn%3D12%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D2244590152022195830#ht_1799wt_936, put a bit on a cloth and wipe the existing thermal paste off before i apply the new paste onto the CPU?


I just use paper towels. Dab some alcohol onto the towel and wipe it down folding into quarters until the chip is dry.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Kieran

I've just ordered some Isopropyl Alcohol along with the thermal paste that you suggested. It will make the move to the new case much easier. My motherboard I/O ports are stuck in the I/O shield so with the H50 removed it will ease the stress on the motherboard as i attempt to get it out.


----------



## romano180

http://youtu.be/ENrMEFDpoBQ
take your chances... but I'm gonna stick with heat sinks


----------



## HiLuckyB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *romano180;14676110*
> http://youtu.be/ENrMEFDpoBQ
> take your chances... but I'm gonna stick with heat sinks


Have fun







Corsair will replace parts that get damaged from this kind of thing


----------



## Ceadderman

That guy is so full of crap it's mind boggling.

Even states at the end of the Vid that the average temp was between 90-100F and the average room temp was 72F.

On a stock H50 no less.

Do the conversion if you don't believe me. I did the 90F temp conversion. At no time in no place at 72F can the H50 run 17.77c minimum temp. It's not possible. *Update* I went back and redid the conversion. It was in fact 32c-37c. I seriously doubt that was what the actual temps were. If it failed at the seal it had to be hotter than that.

If he meant average temp of 90c to 100c that would mean that H50 was boiling internally and is more likely. Considering all the coolant that was all over the inside of that system. Basically it boiled out. No seal in the world can stop a sealed system from boiling out if you allow it to run too hot.

I couldn't tell if he'd run 2 fans on the H50 but it certainly looks like if he did he ran them blowing into each other. Not allowing any cool air into the vanes of the radiator.

I did that and noticed my temps climbing right away and corrected the problem. If he did it and walked away, you know what happened. That thing burst at the weakest point and shi shi'ed all over his gear.

I'll give benefit of the doubt but his claimed temps don't hold up to scrutiny.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *romano180*


http://youtu.be/ENrMEFDpoBQ
take your chances... but I'm gonna stick with heat sinks


Wow, quite the trolling job there.

Knowledgeable people look at that and just shake their heads. Which group do you belong to?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;14681035*
> Wow, quite the trolling job there.
> 
> Knowledgeable people look at that and just shake their heads. Which group do you belong to?


I don't consider that trolling to be honest. He saw it on YouTube and just sharing his opinion on the matter. I did check out the video and left commentary.

I think if I hadn't ever used the H50 and seeing so many people here using the H50 and not having a single issue with it, I probably would have gone with the V10 which was my 1st choice. Either that or DH14.

But the truth of the matter is that Corsair covers you should there be an issue like that. Even if it's your fault. You can't find a better warranty on the market.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14685095*
> I don't consider that trolling to be honest. He saw it on YouTube and just sharing his opinion on the matter. I did check out the video and left commentary.
> 
> I think if I hadn't ever used the H50 and seeing so many people here using the H50 and not having a single issue with it, I probably would have gone with the V10 which was my 1st choice. Either that or DH14.
> 
> But the truth of the matter is that Corsair covers you should there be an issue like that. Even if it's your fault. You can't find a better warranty on the market.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Everyone is entitled to their opinion, but to enter a club thread and just leave a one line message, no further information than one link to one video of one guy's problem. Yeah, I consider that trolling. Uninformed trolling at that.


----------



## Xristo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;14690013*
> Everyone is entitled to their opinion, but to enter a club thread and just leave a one line message, no further information than one link to one video of one guy's problem. Yeah, I consider that trolling. Uninformed trolling at that.


Agreed.

Loving my h50 , keeps my i7 870 @ 4.2ghz /1.4v ideling at 25c and loads at 65c . Best cooler for the price , iv had it for a year never had an issue with leaking or anything . Mine is modded though







both cpu + cooler lapped and using as5 . High cfm fans in push pull too .


----------



## .theMetal

hey h50 club members, I'm very close to joining you guys. my one question is: will my 530 watt psu be enough to power this thing? I will have two scythe slipstreams attached to it and my stuff now. I've no problems with this supply so far I was just curious to know it the pump would pull enough power to cause problems. Thanks all!


----------



## thrasherht

water pumps only pull a few watts. The high powered ones only pull like 20 watts, so don't worry about it. The H50 pump only pulls probably like 5 watts maybe. so just a higher speed fan equivalent.


----------



## Prugor

Zip ties were kinda shotty, but its secure. These fans are outragously loud. 2.8k rpm. Not painfully loud though.

Evo'd & Tapatalked


----------



## .theMetal

thanks thrasherht, that is good to know. i thought i would have to drop an extra hundred++ into a beast psu. I'll wait till I sli.


----------



## Prugor

Stable stable stable. Highest temp from running prime 95 was 62c @ 4.8 ghz, 1.4v.

Evo'd & Tapatalked


----------



## .theMetal

alright another question. I'm planning on running h50 with push/pull and will have a couple of scythe slipstream fans which push 110cfm each. Will this keep thing pretty cool or should I get a fan that matches the cfm of the stock fan on the other side?? or maybe a little higher but not as much as the scythes? experience with my jeep, the more air flowing through the radiator, the cooler things stay but too much water flow matched with not enough air flow results in higher engine temps. this is why I ask the experts. thanks all.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal;14703911*
> alright another question. I'm planning on running h50 with push/pull and will have a couple of scythe slipstream fans which push 110cfm each. Will this keep thing pretty cool or should I get a fan that matches the cfm of the stock fan on the other side?? or maybe a little higher but not as much as the scythes? experience with my jeep, the more air flowing through the radiator, the cooler things stay but too much water flow matched with not enough air flow results in higher engine temps. this is why I ask the experts. thanks all.


You want the fan with the highest static pressure as the push fan. For radiators, static pressure is more important than cfm. I use the same fans you are referring to (except I use the PWM versions, you likely have the 3 pin version) but I have never come across the static pressure spec for them. I was using them as push/pull on the H70 and they worked great. I am now using them as the pull fans on my H100 push/pull. I am also using one of the 1300RPM scythe fans as the pull fan on another computer with an H50 in it. It should work OK, you'll just have to give it a try and see.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal;14703911*
> alright another question. I'm planning on running h50 with push/pull and will have a couple of scythe slipstream fans which push 110cfm each. Will this keep thing pretty cool or should I get a fan that matches the cfm of the stock fan on the other side?? or maybe a little higher but not as much as the scythes? experience with my jeep, the more air flowing through the radiator, the cooler things stay but too much water flow matched with not enough air flow results in higher engine temps. this is why I ask the experts. thanks all.


As Merg said, you want the highest SP rating possible. The slipstreams are good case fans but are pretty inferior when compared to Yate Loon fans. The cost difference for a pair of Yates =/< a single Slipstream when you buy the unsleeved models from PPCs'. ~$4 each. There are other places where you can get just as good or better deals for them.









I used the stock fan as a shroud for my setup. Just clipped the four mounting points the fan plops out, leaving the body to mount between the Pusher and the Rad. Don't need one for the Puller but it's slightly better to have one.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Prugor

Update on mine; going to have to fashion a mount for the fan and radiator because the fans have a powerful spin on them. Zip ties aren't doing what I thought they were. However, performance is fantastic.

Evo'd & Tapatalked


----------



## dalastbmills

Just upgraded from an H60 to an H80 and I am seeing decent results.

During BF:BC2 I was hitting mid 50's with the H60. 
With the H80, I have yet to exceed 45C.

I bought my H60 from bestbuy for $85. Returned it and bought the H80 from Newegg for $91 plus free shipping.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14710002*
> As Merg said, you want the highest SP rating possible. The slipstreams are good case fans but are pretty inferior when compared to Yate Loon fans. The cost difference for a pair of Yates =/< a single Slipstream when you buy the unsleeved models from PPCs'. ~$4 each. There are other places where you can get just as good or better deals for them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the stock fan as a shroud for my setup. Just clipped the four mounting points the fan plops out, leaving the body to mount between the Pusher and the Rad. Don't need one for the Puller but it's slightly better to have one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


The fan comparison in your sig rates the high speed scythe about the same or marginally better than any loons they tested.

However, they are power hungry and they do cost quite a bit more. They rate the Scythe Gentle Typhoon series (1000 RPM- 1800 RPM) as "dominating in CFM/dbA ratio. At $15-20 it's not the cheapest, but a real amazing fan on a radiator". The high speed ones we're using got similar ratings as the loons did at a cost of about $9. The loons were given "my pick for budget fan. They do pretty much the same as every other fan below 1000RPMs at a fraction of the price of around $6. Generally a very good all around fan and amazing value." (that's for the D12SL-12 and D12SM-12). So they look like good stuff for sure.

I'm was thinking about the gentle typhoons since they're available locally, but what I have seems to be working good for now.


----------



## Dshaznet

h80 looks to be on par with the antec h2O 920


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;14713699*
> The fan comparison in your sig rates the high speed scythe about the same or marginally better than any loons they tested.
> 
> However, they are power hungry and they do cost quite a bit more. They rate the Scythe Gentle Typhoon series (1000 RPM- 1800 RPM) as "dominating in CFM/dbA ratio. At $15-20 it's not the cheapest, but a real amazing fan on a radiator". The high speed ones we're using got similar ratings as the loons did at a cost of about $9. The loons were given "my pick for budget fan. They do pretty much the same as every other fan below 1000RPMs at a fraction of the price of around $6. Generally a very good all around fan and amazing value." (that's for the D12SL-12 and D12SM-12). So they look like good stuff for sure.
> 
> I'm was thinking about the gentle typhoons since they're available locally, but what I have seems to be working good for now.


You wouldn't see a big difference in buying Yates or even GTs (aside from lower noise levels), despite your slipstreams having low Static Pressure.

The 2-pin barebone (no tachometer) 2150RPM GTs were going for $9 a pop in the group buy, so if you got in on that, you'd have one of the best Static Pressure/dbA (not CFM/dbA) radiator fans for cheap.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin;14729219*
> You wouldn't see a big difference in buying Yates or even GTs (aside from lower noise levels), despite your slipstreams having low Static Pressure.
> 
> The 2-pin barebone (no tachometer) 2150RPM GTs were going for $9 a pop in the group buy, so if you got in on that, you'd have one of the best Static Pressure/dbA (not CFM/dbA) radiator fans for cheap.


I prefer tacs myself. All my case fans are connected to a fan controller and I like being able to see the speed they're running at. I really miss that when letting the H100 control the fans.

My H100 fans will eventually be controlled by the Corsair Link Commander so I will enjoy the added benefit supplied by the tac. I guess it's not really such a big deal but I prefer them that way. As you said, the difference wouldn't be all that much anyway. Also can't really say about the static pressure of the 1900 RPM Scythes since it doesn't seem to be listed anywhere. Also the actual testing performed at the previously supplied link rated them as good as the loons, so it can't be that low.

http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/acc/109/sy1225sl12hp_detail.html

If I was worried I'd just pick up some gentile typhoons which are available locally and supposedly are "dominating in CFM/dbA ratio...a real amazing fan on a radiator".
I suppose you can say since the static pressure is not listed it must be low but since I was getting great results using them on an H70 I don't think they're bad fans. They are more than adequate as pull fans for the H100.


----------



## P1LGR1M

Installed my H60 with 2 CM XtraFlow fans in p/p yesterday and started testing it. So far I'm very impressed with the results! (Need I say that this beats the socks off a stock cooler)

Idle temps are down from 31c (@3.3GHz) average to 25c (@4.0GHz) average and load temps went from 80c (@3.3GHz) to high 50's (@4.0GHz). Not sure what RPM the fans are running at, but using a fan controller and set to approx. 50%. All this with an ambient of 17c.

I can most definitely recommend these coolers.


----------



## Kokin

Added a shroud to my setup, though I haven't seen any differences in temps, so I might decide to remove it since it's preventing me from putting on a side case fan. Then, I went from rear intake to rear exhaust and saw an increase of 5C-7C in idle/load temps since my gpus are running 100% 24/7 and their heat passes through the H50.

Unfortunately for my setup, exhaust also makes motherboard & northbridge temps higher, due to the heat of my 5770s not being able to escape through my now missing side case fan.

For Antec 902/900 users with 2 120mm front intakes and the big 200mm as exhaust, I recommend either front(requires a bit of work and/or modding) or rear intake for the best results. For the side fan, I would have it as exhaust if you have gpus that exhaust heat in your case (non-reference cooling) and as intake if you have gpus that exhaust heat out to the back (reference cooling).


----------



## Zerogamer22

got a question for you guys!!! any good about delta fan at 250 cfm? ofc i'm deaf lol. but i dont plan to add it but my friend do plan to add it for h50 or 620 from antec


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zerogamer22;14757556*
> got a question for you guys!!! any good about delta fan at 250 cfm? ofc i'm deaf lol. but i dont plan to add it but my friend do plan to add it for h50 or 620 from antec


Its only 25 x 120 rad... even though the CFM is awesome, there would be a hellava backwash from such force and alot of turbance noise. IMO, overkill.


----------



## Zerogamer22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666;14757640*
> Its only 25 x 120 rad... even though the CFM is awesome, there would be a hellava backwash from such force and alot of turbance noise. IMO, overkill.


i wonder whats the result when delta fan on h-series. yeah i did see video from youtube. it was like..jet engine fan!


----------



## Jinto

I have a question I'm hoping someone can answer. When I boot up my PC for the first time during the day (I turn it off every night before bed) I notice my H80 revs up really hard, slows down a bit, revs up really hard again one more time then eventually settles back into the appropriate RPM based on my setting from the push button. Is this normal?


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinto;14758465*
> I have a question I'm hoping someone can answer. When I boot up my PC for the first time during the day (I turn it off every night before bed) I notice my H80 revs up really hard, slows down a bit, revs up really hard again one more time then eventually settles back into the appropriate RPM based on my setting from the push button. Is this normal?


My H100 fans do the same thing, pretty sure it is normal and nothing to worry about.

Pic for the club:


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zerogamer22;14757718*
> i wonder whats the result when delta fan on h-series. yeah i did see video from youtube. it was like..jet engine fan!


It would most likely have the same temps of a slower fan (100-150CFM), since the fins aren't displacing more heat past a certain point. You'd need a faster flow (better pump) to see any improvements past the 100-150CFM fans.


----------



## LeBreadman

Can you add me to the club just built my system and got a h60 and a pair of Gelid silent 12 fans. I must say im impressed because it cools my cpu really well and looks so cool









You can't see the other fan as i mounted it outside the case, and use them as push/pull.


----------



## Pheatton

In case anyone hadn't seen Corsair posted a link to this thread on their Facebook page!

Woot for exposure!


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub;14758526*
> My H100 fans do the same thing, pretty sure it is normal and nothing to worry about.
> ...


All my fans do the same thing too. My H100 fans and my fans connected to my AeroCool fan controller.

Nice build, and I love that Corsair 650D case.


----------



## masterale

Add me up! Thanks


----------



## .theMetal

alright h50 is on its way should be in tomorrow. i'm going to do some case hacking because one of the fans will hang outside the case. also i just helped build a friends rig and the case had amazing cable management so i decided to cut some holes into mine to emulate. I will have to use some generic fans until the amazon person I bought the yate loons from gets them sent..... any ways will post some pictures and hopefully be able to add this club to my signature


----------



## Uncivilised

Changed my fans to a pair of yate loons medium speed. Temps are around 70oC on full load priming for a good 3hrs, 65oC after a few hours of bc2 and 40 idle. Temps dont go any higher during gaming cause i found nothing else stresses the cpu as much. CPU is an i7 920 at 4.2GHz @ 1.37v. Temps seem quite average to me but nonetheless it keeps my cpu cool-ish


----------



## TinRobot

Greetings all.
Well I have been lurking about this forum for some time and thought I may as well say hello. The info in this forum has been invaluable to me in researching what mods to make to my stock cooling. Thanks to you all.
I have recently installed a H100 and I am very happy with it. My cpu has gone from average temps of 40C (idle) and 67C (load) to averaging 30C (idle) and 48C (load). Awesome results.
Here's a couple of pics;

Stock cooler and fan in my 650D;


















Load temps at stock (sorry no idle pics)









The H100 in place;



















Idle and Load temps with H100


















This is my first post here so I hope I got that right. See you all around the forums!


----------



## sused

hi guys, count me in, got H80 in my new 600T case. Great thing


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TinRobot;14772839*
> Greetings all.
> Well I have been lurking about this forum for some time and thought I may as well say hello. The info in this forum has been invaluable to me in researching what mods to make to my stock cooling. Thanks to you all.
> I have recently installed a H100 and I am very happy with it. My cpu has gone from average temps of 40C (idle) and 67C (load) to averaging 30C (idle) and 48C (load). Awesome results.
> ...
> The H100 in place;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By michaelflett62 at 2011-08-29
> ...
> This is my first post here so I hope I got that right. See you all around the forums!


Another sweet 650D build. Nice.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sused;14772952*
> hi guys, count me in, got H80 in my new 600T case. Great thing


Very clean. Those white 600T SE cases look great.


----------



## Vesimas

Hi there! Just joined the comunity and I have questions







I'm going to build the system in signature, the first idea was buying the Noctua NH-D14 but then I saw this new hybrid cooler. I have read some pages (a lot) of this topic and I understand that the only why to do a push/pull is to "mod" the case like Mergatroid's one. So the question is: better (doing some overlock) a H80 push/pull or a H100 stock? Consider that probably I'll use the mesh windws with 4x120mm intake









Thankx for answers and good night, cya tomorrow


----------



## Mysticality

Mysticality's modded H50 dropping by.








More info on my mod: http://www.overclock.net/14783288-post296.html

H50 = 59^C Prime95
H50/Lapped CPU = 52^C
Lapped/Modded H50/Lapped CPU = 48^C
Lapped/Modded H50/Lapped CPU @ 3.9GHz/1.52v = 55^C


----------



## .theMetal

so got this thing installed. more questions, where are you guys plugging in the pump and fans (push/pull) on the mobo? is a splitter going from the cpu fan plug on on the mobo to the two fans a good idea? let me know how your setting things up.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal;14797360*
> so got this thing installed. more questions, where are you guys plugging in the pump and fans (push/pull) on the mobo? is a splitter going from the cpu fan plug on on the mobo to the two fans a good idea? let me know how your setting things up.


I initially plugged my fans(via splitter) into CPU and Pump into PWR. You don't want your CPU header controlling the Pump since it ebbs and flows with the temperature. It CAN be done, but for the most part if you put the Pump on another header and set at 90 or 100%, you shouldn't have any worries. Not every board allows the CPU header to be Iggied or set to max(Pwr Management feature) so I just tell everyone to plug their fans into the CPU header.

Now saying that, your higher voltage fans should probably be connected to a reasonably well manufactured Fan Controller like the RheoSmart or something that has a higher volt per channel capacity. My RheoSmart 3 channel allows 30vpc.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Now saying that, your higher voltage fans should probably be connected to a reasonably well manufactured Fan Controller like the RheoSmart or something that has a higher volt per channel capacity. My RheoSmart 3 channel allows 30vpc.









~Ceadder










If you replace the word Voltage with Wattage, then that's darned good advice









That would be 30 Watts per channel.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;14803623*
> If you replace the word Voltage with Wattage, then that's darned good advice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That would be 30 Watts per channel.


Yeah I keep flopping the two.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## DragonCypher

I ran an H60 on my AMD 1090T for about 2 months without many problems. The cooling ability wasn't fantastic and I was unable to reach 4Ghz at safe temps, so I upgraded to proper watercooling afterward.

When I removed the H60 though I noticed some water droplets had formed around the shroud of the exhaust fan, and now with it out of the case it is quite obvious from shaking the radiator that there is air inside.

Are they meant to be completely full of liquid with no air at all, or is it normal for some air to remain in the top of the radiator like with a reservoir?
I'd like to re-use it again in my housemate's computer to replace his stock cooler but want to make sure its not dead already.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DragonCypher;14804728*
> I ran an H60 on my AMD 1090T for about 2 months without many problems. The cooling ability wasn't fantastic and I was unable to reach 4Ghz at safe temps, so I upgraded to proper watercooling afterward.
> 
> When I removed the H60 though I noticed some water droplets had formed around the shroud of the exhaust fan, and now with it out of the case it is quite obvious from shaking the radiator that there is air inside.
> 
> Are they meant to be completely full of liquid with no air at all, or is it normal for some air to remain in the top of the radiator like with a reservoir?
> I'd like to re-use it again in my housemate's computer to replace his stock cooler but want to make sure its not dead already.


There really is no way to completely fill these things. Sure there would be a bit of air in the system.

But it sounds like yours somehow started purging itself of the liquid. Is it kind of oily with a slight aroma of antifreeze? Only reason I ask is some people have mentioned that the H50 has antifreeze in the loop.

If I were you though I would take no chances and RMA it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## .theMetal

ok awesome guys. its all installed. its stock for now but there is 2 yate loon high speeds and a splitter coming in the mail. im going to mod my case a little bit and have one fan hanging out side the case and pulling, in but for now its the corsair fan pulling in. i would have a picture for you but the cell phone pics i took turned out terrible. if you want me to get solid pics before you let me join the club its all good ill break out the wife's real camera! but ill tell you that right now its overclocked to 3.8 and and its running at 58c and my apt is at 80f so its hot as hell here. its the best i've seen my 965 ever run. let me know. Thanks all!!


----------



## .theMetal

my apologies, its stable at 58c while running prime95. forgot to mention that







it would be pretty bad if that was the idle.....


----------



## Ceadderman

lol Break out the Wife's real camera. I dare you.









If you go to the OP there is a link to Google.docs where you can add yourself. Just be careful not to wipe out the document.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## tvm777

Guys, sorry for "flame" but if anyone (or know some1 ) sell a cheap h50/h60/h70 drop me a message







im searching as a mad child since the one i bought will never arrive







(communication misunderstood)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tvm777;14805450*
> Guys, sorry for "flame" but if anyone (or know some1 ) sell a cheap h50/h60/h70 drop me a message
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im searching as a mad child since the one i bought will never arrive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (communication misunderstood)


Check in Marketplace. Someone always has a cheap H50 up for sale it seems.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## azure1394

Air vent attachment for new H-100... Total cost $40. at Lowes, Core temps in the 30's while playing Fallout New Vegas- Priceless








[/URL]" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" />


----------



## Ceadderman

Connected to your AC or to a Box fan?









~Ceadder


----------



## azure1394

Passive air vent draw as push/pull fans on H-100 are intake into the case... My heating/cooling unit is located in my basement which is usually in the 60 degree range, or during hot summer days 20 degrees cooler than outside temps. Just temporary during the Summer, during the remaining 9 months of the year (Seattle) I vent directly to a window kit drawing outside air.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *azure1394*


Passive air vent draw as push/pull fans on H-100 are intake into the case... My heating/cooling unit is located in my basement which is usually in the 60 degree range, or during hot summer days 20 degrees cooler than outside temps. Just temporary during the Summer, during the remaining 9 months of the year (Seattle) I vent directly to a window kit drawing outside air.


Nice. But make sure you have a filter of some sort at the window. You'd be surprised how much moisture you can draw with something like that set up.









~Ceadder


----------



## azure1394

Thanks for that, was a concern at first, but ran it thru the window kit all last winter(using the H-70) and had no condensation or moisture problems even on days when it was raining. The window has an overhang above and the window is "screened". Just perform general maintinance after a few months, removing the fans on the H-70/100 and brushing the dust off the grill of the radiator. The radiator collects dust even in a closed room, so that maintinance is something you have to think about anyway...


----------



## azure1394

Present outside temp is 72 F, room temp 75 F computer at idle when taking screen shot. The temps remain fairly consistant even under load for gaming, because of the cool air intake...


----------



## azure1394

PNG, BITMAP file did'nt go thru on photo bucket, sorry, core temps 38 32 37 31


----------



## azure1394

[/URL]" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" />


----------



## Nethermir

lol just use the edit button. and also photobucket have a share option and you can get the direct link for your image.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *azure1394*


PNG, BITMAP file did'nt go thru on photo bucket, sorry, core temps 38 32 37 31


Have you noticed the "edit" button at the bottom of your comments? Instead of leaving four comments in a row, just edit your last comment. Takes a little getting used to but it works OK.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tvm777*


Guys, sorry for "flame" but if anyone (or know some1 ) sell a cheap h50/h60/h70 drop me a message







im searching as a mad child since the one i bought will never arrive







(communication misunderstood)


That's too bad. I have an H70 for sale with no fans for $40, but I'm in Canada.


----------



## .theMetal

update: pushed 965 be to 3.9ghz and tinkered with voltage and what not. now in stupid hot apartment (around 80f) temps with prime95 hover around 61. I know this is about as hot as I would ever let this thing get and only one degree c under the max temp for it, its still pretty good for stock h50 and oced amd 125 watt processor. curious to see what it gets when i mod the case a tad and put two yate loon high speeds in push/pull. should be up and running next weekend!


----------



## saer

Finished modding my H70 with high flow tygon tubing, swiftech microres and bitspower fittings







(should be for sale next week if anyone is interested, modding this just made me want to go full watercooling







)


----------



## Ceadderman

^^How much?









Quote:



Originally Posted by *.theMetal*


update: pushed 965 be to 3.9ghz and tinkered with voltage and what not. now in stupid hot apartment (around 80f) temps with prime95 hover around 61. *I know this is about as hot as I would ever let this thing get and only one degree c under the max temp for it*, its still pretty good for stock h50 and oced amd 125 watt processor. curious to see what it gets when i mod the case a tad and put two yate loon high speeds in push/pull. should be up and running next weekend!










That's too hot. Any application that would make your CPU use the full Core would push it right over the top.

What's your ambient temp?

If you haven't done anything to the H50 and are running it stock right now, I would suggest lapping the coldplate(pump block) and replacing the stock TIM with fresh Shin Etsu G751(same stuff) and dropping a shroud in between the Push fan and the Radiator. You'll need longer screws to do that. Roughly 52mm in length.

Also get it off that OC for the time being. No need to run that hot this time of year.









~Ceadder


----------



## Sethy666

Finally. The H100 have made it to Oz so I set about installing it in my CM 690. There where a couple of issues, since my case was not on the 'approved' list but thats what dremels are for









I wanted a top mounted rad and this is where the first issue arose. The fan ports on the the case do not match the fan / rad configuration of the H100, so there was some modding of the case to be had. Once done, it fitted nicely and I managed to put the rad in a P/P with the stock fan in push and some AP-15s in pull (intake).

The second issue came about when I tried to mount the pump. I was unable to mount the pump flush because there where some caps superior to the CPU that where in the way... by millimetres <grr>. This was solved by turning the pump 90 degrees. Now, everything was ready to rock and roll









The H100 was able to reduce my load temps by 3 - 9c across the cores. So Ive gone from high 70s to low 70s on IBT. Im happy with this. Its alot quieter too









Pics enclosed.


----------



## saer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


^^How much?










Well I paid $65 for the parts to complete the mod, so.. probably $85


----------



## .theMetal

another update. so when i first installed the h50 i had case|radiator|fan-> pulling into the case with a fan directly above pulling back out of the case. I was getting ok temps from this set up. It works a million times better with air pushing through the radiator that pulling through. now i have the top fan flipped and pushing air in, and case|radiator|<-fan pushing out of the case. temps dropped a good 8 to 10 c. 965BE is clocked to 3.9 and running completely stable. prime has been running for an hour and temps are hanging at 52c. ambient is about 80f.

can't wait to see a push/pull on this thing when winter ambients are around 70f!


----------



## .theMetal

hey just caught your post, Ceadderman. yea they were definitely too high. the adjusting i did made a world of difference. previous setup was ok for lower end gaming but prime95 yielded scorching temps. now they are down considerably. if anyone is ever wondering, never set up your h50 with case|rad|fan-> it just doesn't do the system justice.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer;14815815*
> Finished modding my H70 with high flow tygon tubing, swiftech microres and bitspower fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (should be for sale next week if anyone is interested, modding this just made me want to go full watercooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


If you get a chance, can you take some pics with the lights on? I'd be interested in checking out how it looks.


----------



## .theMetal

2 yate loon high speeds came in today and this h50 just got lit up. clocked 965 up to 4.0 and prime95 maxed out at 52c, and hovered right at 50c with ambient at 80f. idle dropped down to 32c. this thing was well worth the money. will post pics soon.

set up is <-fan|case|radiator|<-fan with a 200mm side fan and a 120mm fan directly above blowing fresh air in. modded case a bit by cutting fan grill out, now there is a hole in the case for the air to blow right through.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal;14849198*
> 2 yate loon high speeds came in today and this h50 just got lit up. clocked 965 up to 4.0 and prime95 maxed out at 52c, and hovered right at 50c with ambient at 80f. idle dropped down to 32c. this thing was well worth the money. will post pics soon.
> 
> set up is <-fan|case|radiator|<-fan with a 200mm side fan and a 120mm fan directly above blowing fresh air in. modded case a bit by cutting fan grill out, now there is a hole in the case for the air to blow right through.


Nice! That's about what I was running on my 955 between 30 to 32c @ Idle.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal;14849198*
> 2 yate loon high speeds came in today and this h50 just got lit up. clocked 965 up to 4.0 and prime95 maxed out at 52c, and hovered right at 50c with ambient at 80f. idle dropped down to 32c. this thing was well worth the money. will post pics soon.
> 
> set up is <-fan|case|radiator|<-fan with a 200mm side fan and a 120mm fan directly above blowing fresh air in. modded case a bit by cutting fan grill out, now there is a hole in the case for the air to blow right through.


You'd probably get better temps with it as:

-> fan|case|radiator|->fan->^^^ going up to the 120mm fan exhausting.

I say this because your GPU is probably the has Twin Frozr cooler like mine and exhausts hot air inside your case, meaning it's exhausting a lot of it's heat through your radiator.


----------



## .theMetal

I will definitely give it a try always pulling in fresh air would help lots. but my card is actually the non twin frozr which pushes decent air out of the back

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814127592
this thing idles at about 32c even overclocked, I'm gonna be adding another when i can afford it


----------



## Vesimas

I posted on the wrong topic (Graphite 600T Club) so someone kind to look at my post here and tell me what is the best


----------



## vrdubin6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesimas;14853921*
> I posted on the wrong topic (Graphite 600T Club) so someone kind to look at my post here and tell me what is the best


Test each of them out and decide for yourself. Personally I think A would keep your temps just fine since you have plenty of intake points. It would also maintain better overall airflow in the case IMHO. I prefer roughly equal intake and exhaust CFM to maintain a nice steady supply of fresh air, instead of pumping in a ton of air and making it force its way out wherever it can.

Get back to us with your results and which setup you decide on.


----------



## sintricate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DragonCypher;14804728*
> When I removed the H60 though I noticed some water droplets had formed around the shroud of the exhaust fan, and now with it out of the case it is quite obvious from shaking the radiator that there is air inside.


The liquid on the fan might just be oil. I had this problem with the first H80 I bought.

After running the fans at full speed for 12hours, I noticed they had spots all over them and it turned out to be oil from the fans.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin;14851009*
> You'd probably get better temps with it as:
> 
> -> fan|case|radiator|->fan->^^^ going up to the 120mm fan exhausting.
> 
> I say this because your GPU is probably the has Twin Frozr cooler like mine and exhausts hot air inside your case, meaning it's exhausting a lot of it's heat through your radiator.


The temps garnered in that fashion probably won't yeild much more han 1 to 3c of cooling. He could still try it but I wouldn't expect a miracle unless his system sits in front of an AC that is run off a thermostat.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Vesimas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vrdubin6;14854414*
> Get back to us with your results and which setup you decide on.


Sure i have all except sleeved cable and the hd, soon some result


----------



## Mopiko Laila

my h100


----------



## saer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve;14844745*
> If you get a chance, can you take some pics with the lights on? I'd be interested in checking out how it looks.


Here is a better shot, not my photo.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer;14856346*
> Here is a better shot, not my photo.


Yeah, much better shot. Do you see a performance difference since the mod or is this an aesthetics thing only?


----------



## ThorsMalice

Just got my h100 in from newegg last week for $90 after MIR, cools my 950 like a dream compared to my old Thermaltake Frio. Still waiting on my AP15's to get here which will hopefully drop my temps another couple degrees.


----------



## .theMetal

there it is. not nearly as cool looking as saer's







, but still cools like a dream. put a scythe slip stream pushing air in from the top took off a degree or so. picture still has original generic clear fan. also did some cable management so the rats nest behind everything is gone.


----------



## onetec

can i join maybe the club??
(i just ordered the H80) i will post ASAP a picture of it


----------



## kingpin4329

Push/Pull config with Swifttech Rez....
Wiring is still a disaster and working on mounting the Rez closer to the H50 pump and rad.

**note the removal of the stock logo on the pump and the addition of my TiD tag


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LeBreadman*


Can you add me to the club just built my system and got a h60 and a pair of Gelid silent 12 fans. I must say im impressed because it cools my cpu really well and looks so cool









You can't see the other fan as i mounted it outside the case, and use them as push/pull.



















nice set up. what kinda temps are you getting from this idle/load? a friend has the same processor and is gonna get an h series he's just not sure which one.


----------



## Cavi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Pull the H50 for a bit and run the Silver Arrow. Then take the H50 and a bucket of water and submerse test everything but the pump. If you see bubbles coming from the hose or the Radiator you probably have a leak. If not let it sit for a bit(couple days) and try it again. If the sound is still there then I wouldn't trust it. It would be time to replace it.









~Ceadder










The quote above is from July 3, in response to concerns I had over possible leakage. I should have taken this advice, and just kept the Silver Arrow I had in hand as a "just in case" measure.

Today my video card stopped working. 8 beeps meant video RAM. I thought it was odd for that to just suddenly happen. Card is only a year and 1 month into warranty, so I was looking into the possibility of sending it in. Then I grabbed the card.

Wet. When I looked further, it was really wet the nearer you got to the pins. Investigate possible sources and find there can only be one. Sure enough, the bottom of my pump is leaking that fluid-esque substance. So I say farewell to my H50. It lasted 1 year 8 months. Let me guess... these things only have 1 year warranty? lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cavi*


The quote above is from July 3, in response to concerns I had over possible leakage. I should have taken this advice, and just kept the Silver Arrow I had in hand as a "just in case" measure.

Today my video card stopped working. 8 beeps meant video RAM. I thought it was odd for that to just suddenly happen. Card is only a year and 1 month into warranty, so I was looking into the possibility of sending it in. Then I grabbed the card.

Wet. When I looked further, it was really wet the nearer you got to the pins. Investigate possible sources and find there can only be one. Sure enough, the bottom of my pump is leaking that fluid-esque substance. So I say farewell to my H50. It lasted 1 year 8 months. Let me guess... these things only have 1 year warranty? lol


Nope they have a 2 year warranty. Make sure everything is fine before you submit though because they're good on everything in your system should your unit spring a leak. Once you know what you're looking at submit the RMA and you should get a new one in return. Just make sure to follow whatever directions they have for you. I'm not sure if you need the packaging so when I sold mine I included the packaging. Always be prepared when dealing with computers and electronics.









Sorry to hear about your problem though.









~Ceadder


----------



## Cavi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Nope they have a 2 year warranty. Make sure everything is fine before you submit though because they're good on everything in your system should your unit spring a leak. Once you know what you're looking at submit the RMA and you should get a new one in return. Just make sure to follow whatever directions they have for you. I'm not sure if you need the packaging so when I sold mine I included the packaging. Always be prepared when dealing with computers and electronics.









Sorry to hear about your problem though.









~Ceadder










I'll have to dig out my stock cooler from storage and run it to be sure nothing else was effected. Any tips on how to clean the inside of a PCI-E slot? That goo lodged itself in there pretty good. I've cleaned my GPU's pins with isotropyl alcohol using a q-tip, but I'm not sure I could force one of those in that slot safely...


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavi;14873554*
> I'll have to dig out my stock cooler from storage and run it to be sure nothing else was effected. Any tips on how to clean the inside of a PCI-E slot? That goo lodged itself in there pretty good. I've cleaned my GPU's pins with isotropyl alcohol using a q-tip, but I'm not sure I could force one of those in that slot safely...


Take some pictures!

Before doing anything talk to Corsair. PM Corsair-George. Ask them what you should do as they may want you to ship them the system or all the boards. Even if your board works now that doesn't mean it has not been damaged.

You can try drying the boards and see what happens, but I personally would never trust a board that has been wet.

Don't be too guilty. That test was not for your pump, but the rad and hoses. You would not have known if the pump had a crack or poor weld.


----------



## Ceadderman

You might use an automotive electrical motor and contact cleaner and a can of compressed air to blow out the residue. But as Mergatroid correctly pointed out, it's best to contact them to see what they say. When in doubt let them hang themselves out to dry and document everything whenever possible. If you do it beforehand even if that's what they would have told you to do in the first place could circumvent your RMA status.









Sadly there really is no way to check the pump for leaks. Nothing surefire anyway. About the only thing you can do there is check it with a mirror while it's in place to see if there is any moisture coming from under the shroud.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Slep

Guys can u make any sense of this , after i installed the h50 on my i5 760 the temps where showing 19 C idle stock which made me very happy , but now for some crazy reason it idles at aroung 31 C , i already reseated the h50 cleaned the rad , changed fans from intake to outake and back again , i can´t make any sense of this , i live in brazil and my ambient is like 28 29 maybe , but still doesnt make any sense beacuse from 19 to 32 is like 12 degrees increase

Help


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slep;14898855*
> Guys can u make any sense of this , after i installed the h50 on my i5 760 the temps where showing 19 C idle stock which made me very happy , but now for some crazy reason it idles at aroung 31 C , i already reseated the h50 cleaned the rad , changed fans from intake to outake and back again , i can´t make any sense of this , i live in brazil and my ambient is like 28 29 maybe , but still doesnt make any sense beacuse from 19 to 32 is like 12 degrees increase
> 
> Help


You can never run below the ambient temp. So if your ambient is indeed 28-29c at the moment then 31c is more than acceptable.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Slep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14899509*
> You can never run below the ambient temp. So if your ambient is indeed 28-29c at the moment then 31c is more than acceptable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Yeah thats what i thought when i saw 19 degrees , so can do u have any ideas on why it was showing 19 C ? Thanks


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slep;14899623*
> Yeah thats what i thought when i saw 19 degrees , so can do u have any ideas on why it was showing 19 C ? Thanks


It depends on when you noticed it. If it was after you POSTed your system then it's probably because the CPU wasn't heated up yet. Which is what I would think is the likely scenario.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## fibre_optics

Am I able to join the club even though i have an H100?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fibre_optics*


Am I able to join the club even though i have an H100?


Go to OP and add yourself. I'm not sure the H100 has been added yet but if it hasn't we'll get Killhouse to add it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slep;14898855*
> Guys can u make any sense of this , after i installed the h50 on my i5 760 the temps where showing 19 C idle stock which made me very happy , but now for some crazy reason it idles at aroung 31 C , i already reseated the h50 cleaned the rad , changed fans from intake to outake and back again , i can´t make any sense of this , i live in brazil and my ambient is like 28 29 maybe , but still doesnt make any sense beacuse from 19 to 32 is like 12 degrees increase
> 
> Help


Ceadderman is correct. Your temp measurements _must_ have been in error.

It's impossible for your system to be running below ambient even at idle. 31c is much more reasonable temp for idle since the water in the RAD cannot go below ambient unless you use some type of refrigeration, just a couple of degrees c above ambient is about right.

This is why it's a good idea to use decent software to measure your temps and post a screen shot of your measurements so people can point out discrepancies. If people don't bother doing that and post a ridiculously low idle like you did earlier I don't generally even respond since there is no hard data to back up the claim.


----------



## Slep

Thanks guys really helped me out, cheers , by the way aside from the gentle typhoons which i cant get here in brazil are there any other good and quiet fans for the h50


----------



## Nethermir

give a sample of some online websites where you buy pc parts so we could check what options are available to you


----------



## Slep

thanks for the response but thats kida complicated coz as i said before i live in brazil so the sites i buy from are all in portuguese and dont offer a large variety of products , i think it would be better if u guys give me some examples of good fans and iÂ´ll check them out , however , here are the links to 2 of the main pc parts stores

http://www.oficinadosbits.com.br/pro...?Classe=Cooler

http://www.waz.com.br/_produtos/?ca=77496&pg=1

Cheers


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Slep*


thanks for the response but thats kida complicated coz as i said before i live in brazil so the sites i buy from are all in portuguese and dont offer a large variety of products , i think it would be better if u guys give me some examples of good fans and iÂ´ll check them out , however , here are the links to 2 of the main pc parts stores


I've been very impressed with my Vipers. See my sig. They may be overkill for an H50 rad; though.


----------



## Slep

Yes the Vipers seem to be very good however i am a little worried about the noise , the original h50 fan on max is awfull i have to keep it at 70% just to be able to hear my self think


----------



## Ceadderman

I think the Akasas are rebadged Yate Loons so I would recommend them. I looked up Yate Loon in the oficinadosbits and the Red Akasa model popped up. I seem to remember someone had a comparison that included Yate Loon and Akasa was linked to them. So you might try searching your local Google/Search Engine and look up Yate Loon to see what shakes free. They're not too loud if you get the 1700 rpm units Medium Speed Silents.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Slep

Thanks guys really apreciate all the help , might be going with the vipers then

Thanks again

Cheers


----------



## pioneerisloud

Can I join now?









Here's my updated pictures of my rig (molested H50 with a chopped up Beta EVO):


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14915211*
> Can I join now?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my updated pictures of my rig (molested H50 with a chopped up Beta EVO):


a mod that can't read the op? Geeze, what have we come to? Lol... Jk







... Just add yourself to the list in the op


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14915211*
> Can I join now?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1;14915324*
> a mod that can't read the op? Geeze, what have we come to? Lol... Jk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Now, now... he is probably still distracted by the brillance of his efforts









Very nice setup there pioneerisloud, I really like the cable management


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666;14915353*
> Now, now... he is probably still distracted by the brillance of his efforts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice setup there pioneerisloud, I really like the cable management


No, I'm over how pretty it is. Just now got the pictures so I can share it though.









And to be fair, I didn't read the OP. I found the club, hit "go to last page", and posted.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14915366*
> And to be fair, I didn't read the OP. I found the club, hit "go to last page", and posted.


As most of us do


----------



## vrdubin6

The little H50 pump that could.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14915366*
> And to be fair, I didn't read the OP. I found the club, hit "go to last page", and posted.


Lol... I was Jking







... I even read the op and still managed to not who to add my self







sry if I offended anyone


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1;14915537*
> Lol... I was Jking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... I even read the op and still managed to not who to add my self
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sry if I offended anyone


I cant see that you offended anyone, Its all good


----------



## Cavi

Well I just got a replacement cooler in for my H50... so I'm out of the club, for the time being anyway









I will be placing an RMA for the H50 because it should be under warranty. I'll come back to update everyone on how Corsair does customer service wise. I don't foresee any problems, and I'm not bitter one bit seeing as how my system is back up and running after I cleaned everything up myself!

Side note: just saw pioneerisloud's avatar... WHEN DID THAT HAPPEN?! I hadn't been on for a couple months until about a week or so ago.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavi;14917428*
> Side note: just saw pioneerisloud's avatar... WHEN DID THAT HAPPEN?! I hadn't been on for a couple months until about a week or so ago.


Last month. We are still a little shell-shocked.

http://www.overclock.net/overclock-net-related-news-information/1099271-syrillians-memorial-service-pictures-added.html


----------



## Cavi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666;14917570*
> Last month. We are still a little shell-shocked.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/overclock-net-related-news-information/1099271-syrillians-memorial-service-pictures-added.html


Yeah after I posted I went in search... didn't have to look long. Sad









Not to take things off topic, just kind of realized what happened and had to say something. I thought it was possible he'd go on awhile yet...


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavi;14917607*
> Yeah after I posted I went in search... didn't have to look long. Sad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not to take things off topic, just kind of realized what happened and had to say something. I thought it was possible he'd go on awhile yet...


No probs. I hope everything works out with your RMA and... dont be a stranger


----------



## Xristo

2 hours of prime 95 with my h50 on my i7 870

52c max but mostly hovering on 46-49 each core , spring day kinda warm .


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;14918081*
> 2 hours of prime 95 with my h50 on my i7 870
> 
> 52c max but mostly hovering on 46-49 each core , spring day kinda warm .
> 
> -snip-


That's only showing you at 2.9GHz though.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;14918081*
> 2 hours of prime 95 with my h50 on my i7 870
> 
> 52c max but mostly hovering on 46-49 each core , spring day kinda warm .


Very nice. I think we are going to need those temps... summmers on the way









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14918120*
> That's only showing you at 2.9GHz though.


Really? I couldnt magnify the image any larger... bugger


----------



## Xristo

Yeah i did the test at stock speeds .. What do youse think for a h50 ?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xristo;14918131*
> Yeah i did the test at stock speeds .. What do youse think for a h50 ?


LOL, I looked at your sig and thought it was pretty damn good.

For stock, its not bad.


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slep;14913258*
> Yes the Vipers seem to be very good however i am a little worried about the noise , the original h50 fan on max is awfull i have to keep it at 70% just to be able to hear my self think


Even at high speed, the Vipers don't make nearly the noise that the stock fans did, and at half-speed are almost completely silent. I can't hear them over my graphic card fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;14914708*
> I think the Akasas are rebadged Yate Loons so I would recommend them. I looked up Yate Loon in the oficinadosbits and the Red Akasa model popped up. I seem to remember someone had a comparison that included Yate Loon and Akasa was linked to them.


No, the Akasa Vipers are nothing like Yate Loons. Akasa Ultra Quiet look similar to the Yates, but the Apache and Vipers have a completely different blade design.

BTW, has anyone see the BitFenix Spectre? They look rather similar to Scythe GTs.


----------



## IcyPimpHand

Hey guys I would like some help, it's a quick question, and I don't want to start a new thread on it.

Last week my pump started making a clicking noise. People said it needed an RMA, so I issued a ticket. Well knowing my luck the clicking stopped, but I temps seemed to risen a couple of degrees. It could be from the ambient temps, but I don't know.

So my question is if I send my h50 with the clicking now gone, will they send me mine back or replace it?


----------



## linkin93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcyPimpHand;14924567*
> Hey guys I would like some help, it's a quick question, and I don't want to start a new thread on it.
> 
> Last week my pump started making a clicking noise. People said it needed an RMA, so I issued a ticket. Well knowing my luck the clicking stopped, but I temps seemed to risen a couple of degrees. It could be from the ambient temps, but I don't know.
> 
> So my question is if I send my h50 with the clicking now gone, will they send me mine back or replace it?


Probably just replace it as it's easier than taking it apart, replacing a part, and refilling it. Not worth the trouble (just like with printers... the evil things that they are!)


----------



## cavallino

I got tired of the air raid siren wine of my 3K Kaze Ultra's so I am using the Corsair resistors. Still slightly better than the Corsair fans and pretty quiet.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcyPimpHand;14924567*
> Hey guys I would like some help, it's a quick question, and I don't want to start a new thread on it.
> 
> Last week my pump started making a clicking noise. People said it needed an RMA, so I issued a ticket. Well knowing my luck the clicking stopped, but I temps seemed to risen a couple of degrees. It could be from the ambient temps, but I don't know.
> 
> So my question is if I send my h50 with the clicking now gone, will they send me mine back or replace it?


That's a tough question. I don't know if they test RMAd coolers. If they did test it and it didn't make any noise you could get it back NFF (No Fault Found).

What was the clicking noise like? I have another computer here with an H50 and it makes a kind of rattle noise but it's fairly high frequency. It's not loud enough to hear with the case closed and the temps seem OK so I've never done anything about it. Maybe PM Corsair-George and ask him about it.


----------



## Nivacs

Add Me please
H60, Modded for Push/ Pull


----------



## Ceadderman

Congrats to my neighbor pioneerisloud.









Well the fire here is out I think. At least I'm no longer smelling any smoke.









Go ahead and send it in IcyPimp but make sure to add a note letting them know your temps have gone up but clicking has stopped. I doubt they wish to play around with it. Considering your system is covered by the warranty I doubt they want to buy you a new Mainboard or anything else that could get damaged if they sent it back and it failed since it's still under warranty.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Vesimas

Someone will suggest to change the stock fan with another a little more quite? I have a 600T, so the radiator in inside and the fan outside in pull(exhaust) config.


----------



## Mergatroid

You'd get better results using push I would think, but then you'd have to use intake instead of exhaust. Can you put a picture up of the inside of your computer?

You can't just turn the fans down? There is a great list of fans for rads in a test thread Ceadderman found:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/859483-round-6-fan-testing-working-thread.html

They list lots of different fans and test them all for flow and noise. The H100 fans have a high static pressure so you should be able to turn them down to the low setting and still get good temps.


----------



## Vesimas

The problem is if I turn the fan in intake i'll have only the rear one as exhaust (front=intake, 4xside=intake, rear=exhaust, h100=exhaust). Btw they are already at minimum and I though since they are exhausting i don't need high static pressure or I'm wrong? Btw i'll look at the topic you linked


----------



## Mergatroid

The thing is that the static pressure is very important for push fans but not so important for pull fans (I read this information from Corsair George). Pull is not as efficient as push is. I honestly cannot say what the temp difference would be between push and pull.

Remember that Corsair designed the H100 specifically for their cases. If you did set it up for push/intake you would get a positive pressure in your case which is desirable to keep dust from entering through all the little cracks and seams in the case. Of course, I would recommend getting a dust filter to put on your H100 fans.

I had the same problem you are having. I wanted exhaust, but because of the way the H100 and 600T are set up, with just one set of fans the only way you can get exhaust working is with pull (fans on the top with the rad inside).

What I ended up doing is cutting another 120mm fan hole at the front of the case on the top. This let me move the H100 rad one fan length toward the front of the case into the top drive bay (I have a two bay fan controller in my top two bays and it's only 1/2 length so it does not cause a problem with the H100). This allowed four fans so I could have push/pull exhaust. Not everyone will want to do that though. It was a lot of work, and did require cutting a big hole in the top of the case, but it turned out really sweet and works well. The top grill/cover still fits too so you can't even tell there's a big hole (you can't see the hole at all even with the top grill removed).










The thing is, if I had of decided I didn't want to mod my case for push/pull, I think I would have gone with intake/push and put a really beefy case fan on the back for exhaust. If you go into some of the other water cooler threads you can ask around and see if anyone has tested push vs pull. Maybe you're fine the way you are, but I was under the impression that pull by itself is not the best way to go.

Does your video card exhaust into the case or out the back? This is another thing to consider. Corsair George has mentioned that if your card exhausts into the case and you're using the top fans as intake, you can set up your front fan as exhaust and have a reverse flow. I think I have a couple of links that may help you decide:

Here's one where George mentions using the top fans as intake, and some on air flow:

http://www.overclock.net/computer-cases/572373-official-corsair-obsidian-club-252.html

Here's one on the two different types of exhaust video cards use and reversing your flow to compensate for internal video card exhaust:

http://www.overclock.net/computer-cases/831636-official-corsair-graphite-club-202.html

Both link posts are at toward the bottom of the pages.

After reading all of this, I decided to mod my case for push/pull. I really thought about it for about a week before making the decision, but I'm happy with how it turned out. If you decide to change your fan orientation, be sure to add a little better fan on the back. It seems to me if that fan was beefed up a little it would do a good job of pulling the H100 exhaust out the back of the case while the front 200mm fan can provide fresh air coming in. Don't forget that fans on a rad don't give you their full rated air flow because they have to push through the rad. I'm sure a single good 120mm fan on the back would be adequate to handle exhaust if you reversed your H100 fans.

Tough decision you have to make. Let us know what you decide, and if you do decide to go with push/intake could you do us a favor? Take a screen shot of your CPU and GPU temps under load (Prime 95 and Furmark if you can) before you change (a half hour test is good), then reorient your fans and do the same test again. Do it with the controller set to max. It would help others to make the same decision you're considering right now.

Edit:

Here is a site given to me for a comparison of push/pull and shrouds.

http://martinsliquidlab.i4memory.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html

Although they are comparing high speed 38mm fans to low speed 25mm fans, they seem to think that pull is better at low speed and push is better at high speed. If this is true, since you're using low speed you should be fine with pull.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesimas;14943686*
> The problem is if I turn the fan in intake i'll have only the rear one as exhaust (front=intake, 4xside=intake, rear=exhaust, h100=exhaust). Btw they are already at minimum and I though since they are exhausting i don't need high static pressure or I'm wrong? Btw i'll look at the topic you linked


When I fitted my H100, I ended up using the top fan ports that where originally exhaust ports. I have the H100 in P/P, intake.

This left me with only one exhaust port at the rear. In truth, I really havent noticed any issues with having only one exhaust port.


----------



## skwannabe

I'm alittle worried about my temperatures.

Running 2600k 4.8ghz at 1.4vcore and my temps are over 80 C

Are my temps ok?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skwannabe;14954058*
> I'm alittle worried about my temperatures.
> 
> Running 2600k 4.8ghz at 1.4vcore and my temps are over 80 C
> 
> Are my temps ok?


If at load - a little toasty. If at idle, way too high.

You may want to drop that vcore a little and go for a lower OC. The difference between 4.5 and 4.8 Ghz is minimal performance wise, especially if your temps are high.


----------



## Vesimas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;14950216*
> Let us know what you decide, and if you do decide to go with push/intake could you do us a favor? Take a screen shot of your CPU and GPU temps under load (Prime 95 and Furmark if you can) before you change (a half hour test is good), then reorient your fans and do the same test again. Do it with the controller set to max. It would help others to make the same decision you're considering right now.


I have done a little testing with the config that i have atm (h100 with pull fan at minimum), here the result:

4200Mhz - 1.245 vcore - Temp 59 62 62 61 after 20 min of Lynx
4200Mhz - 1.250 vcore - Temp 60 64 64 63 after 20 min of Lynx


----------



## Timo Noize

Ohhh yeah, I want the club........


----------



## kcuestag

May I join as well?


----------



## Mergatroid

Those are two sweet a$$ builds guys.


----------



## PB4UGO

Question, for anyone who has modded an H50/70 with a reservoir:

I have the Antec 620, and modded mine the same way everyone seemed to do with the H50/70, with a Swiftech Micro Res v2, new tubing, etc. I believe the pumps perform similarly across the board, hence me posting this here. My reason for modding was purely aesthetic.

*my question is, is it normal to observe little to no turbulence in the reservior when in use?* when i installed it and ran it, it sucked up the water pretty quickly and with several shakes of the pump and res, air bubbles were eliminated. but i'm just not sure if i should be seeing water moving, or turbulence of any kind. my temps are very good, i just didn't know if the lack of visible moving water was just because these pumps are fairly weak.

thanks for any input you may have.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PB4UGO;14963882*
> Question, for anyone who has modded an H50/70 with a reservoir:
> 
> I have the Antec 620, and modded mine the same way everyone seemed to do with the H50/70, with a Swiftech Micro Res v2, new tubing, etc. I believe the pumps perform similarly across the board, hence me posting this here. My reason for modding was purely aesthetic.
> 
> *my question is, is it normal to observe little to no turbulence in the reservior when in use?* when i installed it and ran it, it sucked up the water pretty quickly and with several shakes of the pump and res, air bubbles were eliminated. but i'm just not sure if i should be seeing water moving, or turbulence of any kind. my temps are very good, i just didn't know if the lack of visible moving water was just because these pumps are fairly weak.
> 
> thanks for any input you may have.


You typically won't see turbulence in the Swifttech MicroRes, even with a strong pump. Usually you'll see turbulence in circular res's, but not that one.









You planning on upgrading the radiator to a 240mm too?


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14964963*
> You typically won't see turbulence in the Swifttech MicroRes, even with a strong pump. Usually you'll see turbulence in circular res's, but not that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You planning on upgrading the radiator to a 240mm too?


Just as i suspected, but i appreciate the response!

i'd like to upgrade the rad, but i'm limited in the placement of a 240. the roof of my case may not work because i won't be able to plug in any of my USB or sound for the top I/O panel (or, it's too close to call), and the floor of the case is taken up by 2 modded HDD enclosures side by side. so i'm just not sure.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PB4UGO;14964996*
> Just as i suspected, but i appreciate the response!
> 
> i'd like to upgrade the rad, but i'm limited in the placement of a 240. the roof of my case may not work because i won't be able to plug in any of my USB or sound for the top I/O panel (or, it's too close to call), and the floor of the case is taken up by 2 modded HDD enclosures side by side. so i'm just not sure.


The A05 will take a 240mm up top easily. I think you'll need to cut the appropriate fan holes though, and it MIGHT need to be partially external (mine's fully external for the rad and fans).


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14965007*
> The A05 will take a 240mm up top easily. I think you'll need to cut the appropriate fan holes though, and it MIGHT need to be partially external (mine's fully external for the rad and fans).


cutting the holes is no prob...this was a pretty involved mod (didn't even think to do a worklog ...facepalm)

i've seen them mounted on top, so i may have to look at measurements, and size it up once and for all. top is my only option, and of course, i'm gonna have to paint it white


----------



## Timo Noize

Hey Ppl please tell me, сan the pump to ensure the normal circulation of fluid from the CPU to the GPU and back to the tank??


----------



## levontraut

you can add me as well.

i have the H50, push pull setup.

i also have the H70
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timo Noize;14965465*
> Hey Ppl please tell me, сan the pump to ensure the normal circulation of fluid from the CPU to the GPU and back to the tank??


this has been done.

search for modded H50 or modded H70. there are 2 ppl on this forum that i know of that modded there corsair setups ....


----------



## Timo Noize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levontraut;14965559*
> you can add me as well.
> 
> i have the H50, push pull setup.
> 
> i also have the H70
> 
> this has been done.
> 
> search for modded H50 or modded H70. there are 2 ppl on this forum that i know of that modded there corsair setups ....


I found a mod club but there is no one answer, apparently have not visited .........
I thought that there are people here who can answer my question .....


----------



## Chrit

Almost finished my rig, the H60 is the only moving part in the entire system.



















Silence is golden. So is no dust.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timo Noize;14965465*
> Hey Ppl please tell me, сan the pump to ensure the normal circulation of fluid from the CPU to the GPU and back to the tank??


No, the H50 pump is not strong enough to do a full CPU, GPU, Res, Rad loop. That's far too much restriction for such a weak pump.


----------



## Timo Noize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14966174*
> No, the H50 pump is not strong enough to do a full CPU, GPU, Res, Rad loop. That's far too much restriction for such a weak pump.


Thank you! I saw a group of modes as in some people, this pump works on both the CPU and the GPU .... That's why I asked the question ..... I asked him of course but there is yet no one did not answer .....


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timo Noize;14966303*
> Thank you! I saw a group of modes as in some people, this pump works on both the CPU and the GPU .... That's why I asked the question ..... I asked him of course but there is yet no one did not answer .....


I can tell you right now, after my mods (240mm radiator and a micro res), that no, there's not enough pump power to run a GPU in the loop too. You wouldn't be able to run a 360mm radiator too well either. It's just too much restriction for such a weak pump.









It'll handle a lesser restrictive 240mm radiator and a res just fine though, and obviously the CPU.


----------



## Timo Noize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14966310*
> I can tell you right now, after my mods (240mm radiator and a micro res), that no, there's not enough pump power to run a GPU in the loop too. You wouldn't be able to run a 360mm radiator too well either. It's just too much restriction for such a weak pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll handle a lesser restrictive 240mm radiator and a res just fine though, and obviously the CPU.


Thank you ..
I read about such fun, now agree that to fully cool the CPU and GPU power the pump is not enough .... but if its torment that will last a long time she did not


----------



## Kasaris

Decided to pickup an H100 to mess with. So far I am getting good temps, CPU at 52-54c, Cores at 44-45c at 100% load under prime at 23.3c ambient room temp.

Running it in a Push/Pull exhaust with four AP-15's in my HAF-X. Once the GT 2150's from the group buy arrive I will swap out to those to see what improvements if any they make.


----------



## SightUp

I filled out the form but my name didn't go on the list... Do I need to make a post too?


----------



## Timo Noize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SightUp;14970254*
> I filled out the form but my name didn't go on the list... Do I need to make a post too?


In such a big building and such little details ....
But most likely it will be kept normal reduce the heat!


----------



## SightUp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timo Noize;14970428*
> In such a big building and such little details ....
> But most likely it will be kept normal reduce the heat!


What?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SightUp;14975304*
> What?


The picture shows a micro-atx board in a semi-large 600T case. He's referring to how much space is vacant, but it allows him to have good airflow/temps due to the ease of cable management.

You gotta remember a lot of OCN members don't speak English. Even for semi-grammar Nazis like me, I try to respect others who bother learning or writing in a different language.


----------



## Timo Noize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin;14975880*
> The picture shows a micro-atx board in a semi-large 600T case. He's referring to how much space is vacant, but it allows him to have good airflow/temps due to the ease of cable management.
> 
> You gotta remember a lot of OCN members don't speak English. Even for semi-grammar Nazis like me, I try to respect others who bother learning or writing in a different language.


Thank you for your understanding ...
I try to write correctly ....
But I always have problems with slang and translation of some words .....

Once again I apologize to all who find it difficult to understand what I write ......


----------



## Timo Noize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SightUp;14975304*
> What?


I wanted to say that your case is supported by a good temperature....


----------



## SightUp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin;14975880*
> The picture shows a micro-atx board in a semi-large 600T case. He's referring to how much space is vacant, but it allows him to have good airflow/temps due to the ease of cable management.
> 
> You gotta remember a lot of OCN members don't speak English. Even for semi-grammar Nazis like me, I try to respect others who bother learning or writing in a different language.


I wasn't disrespectful... I just asked what? Asking someone what isn't disrespectful...


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SightUp;14975304*
> What?


"In such a big building and such little details..."

Translation

Such a big case and such small components.

"But most likely it will be kept normal reduce the heat!"

Translation

But it should reduce the heat under normal conditions.

Not really hard to understand once you think about it a bit.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SightUp;14978440*
> I wasn't disrespectful... I just asked what? Asking someone what isn't disrespectful...


Didn't mean to call you disrespectful (I worded it incorrectly if you understood it that way), but I was just saying that it is a general rule I try to uphold. No harm meant towards you, I apologize if you felt otherwise.


----------



## SightUp

No! That's it! E-fight right now!


----------



## asus6983

What type of screw is supposed to be used with the h50 when you have a shroud in-between the rad and 120mm fan?


----------



## vrdubin6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *asus6983*


What type of screw is supposed to be used with the h50 when you have a shroud in-between the rad and 120mm fan?


Still a 6/32 screw, but I would imagine you would need something roughly 2-1/4". Someone that has done it can probably give you an exact size. Once you know for sure you should be able to find something that at your local hardware store.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


50(53?)mm or 2.25"









~Ceadder










Post #18670


----------



## joeyxl

Hello all! im new to overclock.net, id decided to post my h50 setup, followed the guide on the site and worked great! anyways heres the pics, and hope to talk to you guys more often on here







sorry for the mess :S


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joeyxl*


Hello all! im new to overclock.net, id decided to post my h50 setup, followed the guide on the site and worked great! anyways heres the pics, and hope to talk to you guys more often on here







sorry for the mess :S




















Looks ok, but a bit of cable management will make it look cleaner


----------



## joeyxl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI;15004880*
> Looks ok, but a bit of cable management will make it look cleaner


haha your telling me, i really need to do that REALLY soon


----------



## Mergatroid

That case looks pretty good. Some nice management holes. Cool colour.


----------



## [email protected]

joeyxl said:


> Hello all! im new to overclock.net, id decided to post my h50 setup, followed the guide on the site and worked great! anyways heres the pics, and hope to talk to you guys more often on here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for the mess :S
> 
> It is a mess. The most disappointing cable settings i ever seen. No excuse man you got 4 holes and you can hide them all!! Even the cold cathode inverter.
> 
> Why in the world are you using small tubes for the cooler? Isn't that restricting airflow? lol.
> 
> Congrats on your build though.


----------



## pioneerisloud

@joey:
Dude....did you even BOTHER measuring your tubing out? Those tubes are probably 10 feet total too long, just by looking. I mean jeez, that's enough tubing to run 2-4 of those loops.

Also, your water levels are a little low.









And did you hot glue your tubing on?







You're supposed to use 2x zip ties (offset the heads) or clamps. That way its removable for cleaning later. Not to mention hot glue could easily melt with the temperatures in that loop....and then your tubing just fall off.

And dang man, clean up those wires! I've seen prebuilts with better cable management.









Criticism aside....
It's a good start.


----------



## SightUp

Is there even a list anymore? Am I added? I have no idea what's going on anymore...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SightUp*


Is there even a list anymore? Am I added? I have no idea what's going on anymore...


Yes there is a list. And no you're not added, because you haven't been properly hazed yet. So up on your feet Plebe arms outstretched! You're to stand there holding two HAF cases filled with Goldfish and you're not allowed to spill even one of them intil you're relieved.









Don't worry though cause those Goldfish won't have time to get stale. Those are our late night snack of choice.


















Now hop to it!









Okay now that my fun is over... you have to go to OP and at the bottom of the Google.doc you'll find a link to add yourself.









~Ceadder


----------



## SightUp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Yes there is a list. And no you're not added, because you haven't been properly hazed yet. So up on your feet Plebe arms outstretched! You're to stand there holding two HAF cases filled with Goldfish and you're not allowed to spill even one of them intil you're relieved.









Don't worry though cause those Goldfish won't have time to get stale. Those are our late night snack of choice.










Wut?


----------



## joeyxl

haha thanks guys, the reason im using this tubing is, because it was all i could find a home depot, and the hot glue is the only way they would stay in there. its been running for about 8 months now and the hoses seem to be sitting fine, i was thinking of doing a flush soon. what do you guys recommend?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SightUp;15025548*
> Wut?


Did you read all the way thru?









I was being facetious, making a funny, joshin you, mickying about etc. Read to the bottom of that reply, all will become clear.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joeyxl*


haha thanks guys, the reason im using this tubing is, because it was all i could find a home depot, and the hot glue is the only way they would stay in there. its been running for about 8 months now and the hoses seem to be sitting fine, i was thinking of doing a flush soon. what do you guys recommend?


Really, whatever works right? With decent glue there's no way it's going to melt just from coolant temps. Plus, hot melt is actually pretty easy to remove.

Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't do it that way myself because I wouldn't have the balls to have all that liquid in my case, kept from leaking with hot melt glue. But, hey if it works then all the power to ya.

What are you temps like using that setup? I would love to compare your setup with someone running the stock H0 and your same cpu.


----------



## Kokin

What's with the spreadsheet on the first page? I can see that the members list is working fine, but why is there a game's item list on there as well?


----------



## Killhouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin;15035059*
> What's with the spreadsheet on the first page? I can see that the members list is working fine, but why is there a game's item list on there as well?


I have no idea whats going on there. Theyre not even spreadsheets I've made or seen before.

Trying to fix it now









EDIT: Fixed


----------



## joeyxl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;15031398*
> Really, whatever works right? With decent glue there's no way it's going to melt just from coolant temps. Plus, hot melt is actually pretty easy to remove.
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't do it that way myself because I wouldn't have the balls to have all that liquid in my case, kept from leaking with hot melt glue. But, hey if it works then all the power to ya.
> 
> What are you temps like using that setup? I would love to compare your setup with someone running the stock H0 and your same cpu.


well your all going to laugh at me, but one of the nuts in the retention bracket got stripped, so its held on by 3 screw, now when i first put it on with the new hoses/reservoir, i was sitting at idle 29-30c. now ive pushed my cpu up a bit and is sitting at 37-39c. i believe the paste is drying up, because of the little gap on the corner of the pump/heatsink. also you guys will get yet another laugh, i woke up yesterday morning, to watch my top 200mm fan explode (2 fins broke off the fan). so now ive got to go pick up a new fan :|. i think im gunna pick up some arctic sliver, but what i have on there atm is cooler master stuff. dont think its doing a great job


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeyxl;15037486*
> well your all going to laugh at me, but one of the nuts in the retention bracket got stripped, so its held on by 3 screw, now when i first put it on with the new hoses/reservoir, i was sitting at idle 29-30c. now ive pushed my cpu up a bit and is sitting at 37-39c. i believe the paste is drying up, because of the little gap on the corner of the pump/heatsink. also you guys will get yet another laugh, i woke up yesterday morning, to watch my top 200mm fan explode (2 fins broke off the fan). so now ive got to go pick up a new fan :|. i think im gunna pick up some arctic sliver, but what i have on there atm is cooler master stuff. dont think its doing a great job


Don't stress test that thing at all. Since you're now missing a bolt, your block isn't mounted correctly, so you will have bad temperatures, and possibly overheat.

Go buy yourself a mounting kit (I'm using the Xigmatek mounting kit for like $5 on newegg for mine). Fix that thing before you hurt something. And seriously dude, clean up them cables and tubing!


----------



## joeyxl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;15037523*
> Don't stress test that thing at all. Since you're now missing a bolt, your block isn't mounted correctly, so you will have bad temperatures, and possibly overheat.
> 
> Go buy yourself a mounting kit (I'm using the Xigmatek mounting kit for like $5 on newegg for mine). Fix that thing before you hurt something. And seriously dude, clean up them cables and tubing!


well ive been running my system for about 6 months now and its seems to be fine (doesnt mean i feel safe about it running), but if you dont mind linking the bracket your using?, ive also found out the fittings i have fit my hose, ill show pics if required


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeyxl;15037854*
> well ive been running my system for about 6 months now and its seems to be fine (doesnt mean i feel safe about it running), but if you dont mind linking the bracket your using?, ive also found out the fittings i have fit my hose, ill show pics if required


I'm using this Xigmatek kit. I'm only using the backplate on it though, still using the stock H50 gasket and bolts. Only the backplate.

And even if your tubes fit snugly over your barbs, you still need to clamp them down with zip ties (2, offset the heads). Actual clamps or compression fittings would be better...but not needed.


----------



## joeyxl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;15037938*
> I'm using this Xigmatek kit. I'm only using the backplate on it though, still using the stock H50 gasket and bolts. Only the backplate.
> 
> And even if your tubes fit snugly over your barbs, you still need to clamp them down with zip ties (2, offset the heads). Actual clamps or compression fittings would be better...but not needed.


yeah i need the bolt and the screw, which will work, right? the fittings aren't barbed, you just slide the hoses into the hole and its snug, that's why i had to use hot glue because there was no way to tighten the fittings properly. but i do want to cut the hose lengh down, if im correct, to drain the system, i just tip the case over and put a bucket underneath the tank?


----------



## mcmosher

Hi.........
i noticed you had a spreadsheet so i thought i'd play around with it a little to see how many people use their h series as intake and exhaust and what the temps comparison might be. from the data in the sheet here's what i got:

Overall:
61.1% Exhaust
38.9% Intake
avg temp Exhaust 56.52 degrees C
avg temp Intake 56.51 degrees C
(keep in mind!!! - the temps are across platforms and who knows what case/fan/airflow/overclocks)

so i narrowed it down to 2500/2600K
Exhaust 66% of users
Intake 34%
Exhaust temps 62.4C
Intake temps 58.08C
keep in mind same issues of overclocks/cases/fans/etc

920/930 came up with
56.5% Exhaust
43.5% Intake
61C Exhaust
66C Intake

Not overly scientific but i thought i would share anyway.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joeyxl*


well your all going to laugh at me, but one of the nuts in the retention bracket got stripped, so its held on by 3 screw, now when i first put it on with the new hoses/reservoir, i was sitting at idle 29-30c. now ive pushed my cpu up a bit and is sitting at 37-39c. i believe the paste is drying up, because of the little gap on the corner of the pump/heatsink. also you guys will get yet another laugh, i woke up yesterday morning, to watch my top 200mm fan explode (2 fins broke off the fan). so now ive got to go pick up a new fan :|. i think im gunna pick up some arctic sliver, but what i have on there atm is cooler master stuff. dont think its doing a great job


Just wait, I hear problems come in threes. You gave me a good laugh, thanks. Hope the mounting plate and new fan get things under control for you.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joeyxl*


well ive been running my system for about 6 months now and its seems to be fine (doesnt mean i feel safe about it running), but if you dont mind linking the bracket your using?, ive also found out the fittings i have fit my hose, ill show pics if required










My roommate had been running his stock Intel cooler with one pin not put through the boards all the way. He ran it like that for a few months, and never complained about his over 90c temps. It never shut down or anything which is bizarre. I bought him a nice big Zalman cooler as a birthday present, and I discovered the stock cooler problem when we installed the new one. It's amazing how much abuse these cpus will take.


----------



## DireLeon2010

Okay. That was too easy....I must have done something wrong. I got over my irrational fear and finally installed the bloody H60. It's going to blow up now right? I mean....it's too quiet I'm idling at mid 30s right now, whereas it idled at mid 40s with stock felt like I needed to be a hexaped (two legs and four arms) for part of the install


----------



## texas_nightowl

Hey everyone...I'm a brand new H60 owner...installed it tonight...I've got a 2500k running stock. No OC (yet).

I was running a CM Hyper 212+ but just wasn't crazy about. Had to re-install it a couple times and it bugged me every time (had to RMA my motherboard). So went out this afternoon and picked up the H60. (I was very tempted to go for the Antec 620 but I have a Corsair case, PSU, and memory, so...went for the H60.)

So, I wasn't expecting miracles, but I'd like to improve on these temps I got from a Prime95 Blend test. They do seem a little high to me given I am not OC'ing.










Are they a bit on the high side?

I have the Corsair 400r case. There are 2 x 120 intake fans on the front in front of the hard drives (2). Then there is the H60 which I did setup to exhaust out the rear.

I have 2 x 120 fans around that I can install but looking for the best setup? I was considering mounting one as an intake on the top of the case to pull air in just where the H60 is mounted so there would be some slightly cooler air...but that would then give me a total of 3 intakes on only the 1 exhaust.

The 2 spare fans I now have...1 is the Corsair fan that was pre-installed in the case...but it is not a match to the H60's fan. The other is a Scythe Slipstream.

Here's the H60 mounted:


----------



## joeyxl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;15054283*
> Just wait, I hear problems come in threes. You gave me a good laugh, thanks. Hope the mounting plate and new fan get things under control for you.


the one that was linked in here, will the screws work with the h50 bracket that holds the block? i just want to know if i can get it properly mounted again, if not im going to remove it, and put my stock fan on again. and send everything except the tank to the trash :/ mabye do a proper cooling setup









Send fromy P-509 using tapatalk


----------



## andrey64

Ive got the h60 running. awesome little thing! Ill post some pics later on!


----------



## andrey64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *texas_nightowl;15056633*
> Hey everyone...I'm a brand new H60 owner...installed it tonight...I've got a 2500k running stock. No OC (yet).
> 
> I was running a CM Hyper 212+ but just wasn't crazy about. Had to re-install it a couple times and it bugged me every time (had to RMA my motherboard). So went out this afternoon and picked up the H60. (I was very tempted to go for the Antec 620 but I have a Corsair case, PSU, and memory, so...went for the H60.)
> 
> So, I wasn't expecting miracles, but I'd like to improve on these temps I got from a Prime95 Blend test. They do seem a little high to me given I am not OC'ing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are they a bit on the high side?
> 
> I have the Corsair 400r case. There are 2 x 120 intake fans on the front in front of the hard drives (2). Then there is the H60 which I did setup to exhaust out the rear.
> 
> I have 2 x 120 fans around that I can install but looking for the best setup? I was considering mounting one as an intake on the top of the case to pull air in just where the H60 is mounted so there would be some slightly cooler air...but that would then give me a total of 3 intakes on only the 1 exhaust.
> 
> The 2 spare fans I now have...1 is the Corsair fan that was pre-installed in the case...but it is not a match to the H60's fan. The other is a Scythe Slipstream.
> 
> Here's the H60 mounted:


A buddy of mine has the same issue with his i5 2500k running the h60. He installed a few 120 kraze fans and it dropped his temps. Hes running 2 in push/pull and then a few fans around the case. Plus a 200mm mounted on the left panel directly pushing air at the cpu area. Made a difference. We got his set up running around 7c cooler then your temps.


----------



## Prugor

Heck yeah problems come in threes with everything.

When I was putting those four TK-123 55mm fans on my H100, I managed to strip the last three holes for the last fan. I had to use the thicker screws to keep it all together. Its good now. But jesus, it was free spinning for a while. I think it was because of the vibration mount for the fans that I put on, it gave too much give when I was screwing those screws in, so I might have gave it too much oomph.


----------



## mtbiker033

is the fan that comes with the H60 any good? I just installed it on a 2500k rig for mys stepson and I put a sleeved yate loon high speed on it and never tried the corsair fan. I want to put another fan on it for pull but I need to find some of those long little screws as I see the pull side has the holes same as the other.


----------



## texas_nightowl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrey64;15057275*
> A buddy of mine has the same issue with his i5 2500k running the h60. He installed a few 120 kraze fans and it dropped his temps. Hes running 2 in push/pull and then a few fans around the case. Plus a 200mm mounted on the left panel directly pushing air at the cpu area. Made a difference. We got his set up running around 7c cooler then your temps.


Thanks. I guess until I get some matched fans, I'm at very least going to mount one of my spares as an intake either on top above the cpu area or on the side to bring in some cooler air.


----------



## DireLeon2010

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mtbiker033*


is the fan that comes with the H60 any good? I just installed it on a 2500k rig for mys stepson and I put a sleeved yate loon high speed on it and never tried the corsair fan. I want to put another fan on it for pull but I need to find some of those long little screws as I see the pull side has the holes same as the other.


I used it to replace my top fan. It's okay. Two red Rosewill fans are doing the push/pull duties until I can afford quieter ones. Any advice here on what to get?


----------



## joeyxl

anyone agree with my method of draining the system?


----------



## texas_nightowl

Whoo-hoo! A combination of reseating and switching it to intake instead of exhaust has improved my temps greatly! Earlier today, I ran a 1 hour OCCT auto test and my temps hit 64-65c. And I was running stock!

I took it all out...reseated the block (wish the backplate was metal instead of plastic...and the screws felt a bit loose but I couldn't get them in any further) and switched the fan from exhaust to intake (but still mounted at the rear of my case) and put in a top case fan for exhaust.

Just started another OCCT test....at 11 minutes in, my max temp was 50c! Terrific improvement. Cores 0,2,3 hit a max of 50. Core 1 (the lazy one) had only hit 45 and was running 4-6 degrees cooler than the others.

This is much better.

And I'm not even running a push/pull config. Just 1 fan on the H60.

Now I can consider overclocking....after I finish memtest. See here for explanation.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *texas_nightowl*


Hey everyone...I'm a brand new H60 owner...installed it tonight...I've got a 2500k running stock. No OC (yet).

I was running a CM Hyper 212+ but just wasn't crazy about. Had to re-install it a couple times and it bugged me every time (had to RMA my motherboard). So went out this afternoon and picked up the H60. (I was very tempted to go for the Antec 620 but I have a Corsair case, PSU, and memory, so...went for the H60.)

So, I wasn't expecting miracles, but I'd like to improve on these temps I got from a Prime95 Blend test. They do seem a little high to me given I am not OC'ing.

Are they a bit on the high side?

I have the Corsair 400r case. There are 2 x 120 intake fans on the front in front of the hard drives (2). Then there is the H60 which I did setup to exhaust out the rear.

I have 2 x 120 fans around that I can install but looking for the best setup? I was considering mounting one as an intake on the top of the case to pull air in just where the H60 is mounted so there would be some slightly cooler air...but that would then give me a total of 3 intakes on only the 1 exhaust.

The 2 spare fans I now have...1 is the Corsair fan that was pre-installed in the case...but it is not a match to the H60's fan. The other is a Scythe Slipstream.

Here's the H60 mounted:


Your temps do seem a little high to me, but I'm using a different CPU and cooler. My load temps with an H70 were about 57c, and they're around the 50c mark with an H100. Idle is in the mid to low 30s with an 800MHz overclock.

Try adding another fan to the H60 for push/pull, and for lower CPU temps use intake, and try reseating the block if you have to..

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joeyxl*


the one that was linked in here, will the screws work with the h50 bracket that holds the block? i just want to know if i can get it properly mounted again, if not im going to remove it, and put my stock fan on again. and send everything except the tank to the trash :/ mabye do a proper cooling setup









Send fromy P-509 using tapatalk


I honestly can't say for sure. However even if they don't fit, you can always get the correct screws from a hardware store. I think it would be a real pity to scrap an H50 over a stripped screw hole. If you contact Corsair, I bet they would send you another one of the correct back plates.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mtbiker033*


is the fan that comes with the H60 any good? I just installed it on a 2500k rig for mys stepson and I put a sleeved yate loon high speed on it and never tried the corsair fan. I want to put another fan on it for pull but I need to find some of those long little screws as I see the pull side has the holes same as the other.


The H60 fan is a pretty good fan. I bet you could use the H60 fan as a pull fan and everything would work fine. You can get screws from any hardware store. Just take one of the original screws with you to get the correct size.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *texas_nightowl*


Whoo-hoo! A combination of reseating and switching it to intake instead of exhaust has improved my temps greatly! Earlier today, I ran a 1 hour OCCT auto test and my temps hit 64-65c. And I was running stock!

I took it all out...reseated the block (wish the backplate was metal instead of plastic...and the screws felt a bit loose but I couldn't get them in any further) and switched the fan from exhaust to intake (but still mounted at the rear of my case) and put in a top case fan for exhaust.


Good job, glad it worked out.

Here's a couple of links you guys may make use of:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ng-thread.html

An awesome thread that tests just about every fan under the sun.

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=97286

The correct screw size for all the hydro series coolers.


----------



## asus6983

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


50(53?)mm or 2.25"









~Ceadder










Where do you find these screws? I've been to 4 hardware stores and 2 computer stores and none of them had a 6/32 screw that was 2.25 inches in length.


----------



## DireLeon2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asus6983;15064464*
> Where do you find these screws? I've been to 4 hardware stores and 2 computer stores and none of them had a 6/32 screw that was 2.25 inches in length.


I had a problem like that when I tried to mount a couple of extra fans in a case. (this was years ago) The only ones I could find that fit the threading were WAY too long. The guys at my local Ace Hardware cut them to length for me tho. Maybe you could try that?


----------



## Lhotse

add me also please.


----------



## Cavi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DireLeon2010;15066630*
> I had a problem like that when I tried to mount a couple of extra fans in a case. (this was years ago) The only ones I could find that fit the threading were WAY too long. The guys at my local Ace Hardware cut them to length for me tho. Maybe you could try that?


Any hardware store will certainly cut them down for you at no charge. Way to think outside the box! I did the same thing... found 3" screws and had them cut down before I even left the store. Just be careful, one time I did it (separate instance) and got them cut too short. Had to run back to the store!


----------



## neogeo64

Please add me ! *edit* n/m I filled out form on page 1
Just purchased an H60 and SilverStone TJ08 Case.
Migrated over all my older hardware.
H60 exhaust setup w\\ Noctua nfp12's push shroud/pull
955 BE @3600

Idle Temp 33 (all cores)
Prime95 30min 57 (all cores)

Moved desk to the third floor and had to change cases, my old SG01 was climbing into the 70c range during gaming using a Scythe BIG SHURIKEN. What a difference!


----------



## MGF Derp

Can anyone lead me to some info on how to fill an H70 up without a res in the loop. I bought one with cut tubes and I dont want to put a res on it. Sorry for not searching but I am kinda pressed for time. Thanks a ton.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MGF Derp*


Can anyone lead me to some info on how to fill an H70 up without a res in the loop. I bought one with cut tubes and I dont want to put a res on it. Sorry for not searching but I am kinda pressed for time. Thanks a ton.


It'd be a ton easier to just buy a cheap Swiftech MicroRes and some new tubing (plus the right size barbs). I wouldn't even try to refill one without a res myself.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asus6983;15064464*
> Where do you find these screws? I've been to 4 hardware stores and 2 computer stores and none of them had a 6/32 screw that was 2.25 inches in length.


I made my own using 3" screws, two hex nuts and a pair of wire *****.

Insert the screw into the hex nuts one at a time. Take them all the way down to the head of the screw. Then screw it into the opening and cinch down one of the nuts to snug. Then cinch down the 2nd one til its snug. Then at the head unthread the screw and mark just above the 2nd hex nut then lower both a little and mark again. Then snap the screw at that point and bring the hex nuts back to that point using the 2nd one to snug to.

I did this then painted mine to keep the hex nuts in place.



















~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## blackbalt89

After taking a quick look at the spreadsheet on the first page I am feeling my H100 is horribly off compared to some of the other temps I see in here.

With IBT and AVX the highest temp was 76c. I see load temps in the 60s for people with this kind of overclock on the same processor.

Is there something wrong here?


----------



## joeyxl

so i contacted corsair, i hope they help me as i have no idea what nut or screw to use with the stock bracket. now to my other question, how does one drain ones loop, so they could shorten their hose?


----------



## vrdubin6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackbalt89;15080343*
> After taking a quick look at the spreadsheet on the first page I am feeling my H100 is horribly off compared to some of the other temps I see in here.
> 
> With IBT and AVX the highest temp was 76c. I see load temps in the 60s for people with this kind of overclock on the same processor.
> 
> Is there something wrong here?


Do you know if your ambients and vcore are similar?


----------



## blackbalt89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vrdubin6;15086387*
> Do you know if your ambients and vcore are similar?


Not sure. The list doesn't show too much info.

Vcore is 1.425v and ambient is around 22c.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeyxl;15085929*
> so i contacted corsair, i hope they help me as i have no idea what nut or screw to use with the stock bracket. now to my other question, how does one drain ones loop, so they could shorten their hose?


One doesn't. Not unless they don't care about their warranty.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## joeyxl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15086774*
> One doesn't. Not unless they don't care about their warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


well my h50 is already modded. as you can see in my first post here.







so, how does one drain?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeyxl;15086910*
> well my h50 is already modded. as you can see in my first post here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so, how does one drain?


Well you can use a T fitting add 1 more barb and run a hose to a barbed outlet with stopper fitting and add it in at the Res using the same size hose you're using now. But that doesn't help much if you already have it filled.

What you will probably have to do is remove the loop from your system and drain into a bucket. Make sure it's clean so you can recover as much of your coolant as possible.

You can put the T fitting anywhere in the line so long as it's at its lowest point.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## 1ijoe

What do you guys think? Should I shorten the tubes?


----------



## C4D0Z

noob question warning

i just built my first system with a h60 a 2500k and two orange xigmatek fans

so far my temps in the uefi/bios are starting around 59C and climbing from there to at least 65C where i shut it off, this was in a matter of maybe a minute, i think that this means i should reseat it, im not totally sure if the pump is on but i've tried it on multiple places so i think it is

any thoughts?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *1ijoe*











What do you guys think? Should I shorten the tubes?


Your tubing is fine. You'll never be able to get it absolutely perfect because you'll have to be able to remove your loop for maintenance.









~Ceadder


----------



## DireLeon2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C4D0Z;15090382*
> noob question warning
> 
> i just built my first system with a h60 a 2500k and two orange xigmatek fans
> 
> so far my temps in the uefi/bios are starting around 59C and climbing from there to at least 65C where i shut it off, this was in a matter of maybe a minute, i think that this means i should reseat it, im not totally sure if the pump is on but i've tried it on multiple places so i think it is
> 
> any thoughts?


Is it tightened down enough? Check to see if it's making full contact? I'm a noob at this too but, yeah, I'd say reseat it.


----------



## texas_nightowl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *C4D0Z*


noob question warning

i just built my first system with a h60 a 2500k and two orange xigmatek fans

so far my temps in the uefi/bios are starting around 59C and climbing from there to at least 65C where i shut it off, this was in a matter of maybe a minute, i think that this means i should reseat it, im not totally sure if the pump is on but i've tried it on multiple places so i think it is

any thoughts?


Def. reseat it. I just installed my H60 over the weekend and while my temps were not as high as yours, my temp under load was not great. When reseating it, I was able to see that my contact was not even. My thermal paste had not spread evenly and was thicker on one side. I had to tighten the screws opposite where the tubes connect first because the tubes caused pressure to the right side. After reseating it my load temp was greatly improved...from mid 60's down to 50. (And I only use 1 fan as intake.)


----------



## Lhotse

my H 100










*how do find that sheet to sign up for this club ?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blackbalt89*


After taking a quick look at the spreadsheet on the first page I am feeling my H100 is horribly off compared to some of the other temps I see in here.

With IBT and AVX the highest temp was 76c. I see load temps in the 60s for people with this kind of overclock on the same processor.

Is there something wrong here?


Some people have bad luck with a CPU that just runs hotter. You can try reseating your block, make sure it's not touching any capacitors on your board (I had to turn mine 90 degrees to avoid capacitors). For better CPU temps, set unit as intake (you may get warmer case temps that way though).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joeyxl*


so i contacted corsair, i hope they help me as i have no idea what nut or screw to use with the stock bracket. now to my other question, how does one drain ones loop, so they could shorten their hose?


Since you have a modded H50 you may have to ask questions like that in another water cooling thread since most people here didn't mod their coolers. However, at a guess I would say pull the entire unit out, and just drain it like you would anything else. You can use your case tipping method too I guess. (I bought a closed loop system so I wouldn't have to do things like that). Your best bet is to purchase some barbs and a T fitting like Ceadderman suggested. However, I guess that won't help you currently.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *1ijoe*











What do you guys think? Should I shorten the tubes?


Looks fine to me.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *C4D0Z*


noob question warning

i just built my first system with a h60 a 2500k and two orange xigmatek fans

so far my temps in the uefi/bios are starting around 59C and climbing from there to at least 65C where i shut it off, this was in a matter of maybe a minute, i think that this means i should reseat it, im not totally sure if the pump is on but i've tried it on multiple places so i think it is

any thoughts?


Reseat for sure. Make sure your block is not touching any capacitors on your mobo (This is a problem with the larger square blocks). If it does, rotate it 90 degrees and seat it again. Make sure your pump is plugged in (I like using a fan header so you can see the RPM with Fanspeed or in the BIOS), but I'm not positive what the RPM should be for a H60. The H50 and H70 are around 1400 RPM). You can use a 3 pin to molex adapter and plug it directly into the PSU if you prefer.

If you do use a fan header for your pump, make sure it's set at full speed all the time (not regulated).


----------



## C4D0Z

well regardless of my other issues i definitely need to reseat it because i put the back plate on upside down


----------



## texas_nightowl

alright, I think these results are pretty decent. I just ran Intel Burn Test for first time ever and I think the H60 did pretty well. I did 5 passes of IBT at MAX (6707mb RAM out of 8). CPU at stock...basically...during IBT it ran at 3.4. In an ambient of @ 24c, the max temps reached (as reported by Core Temp) were: 54/51/56/55. And it only hit 56 on the last run, it 55 until near the end.

So if IBT is supposedly the test that pushes temps highest, I think I am good at stock and ready to start OCing.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lhotse*


my H 100

_*SNIP*_

*how do find that sheet to sign up for this club ?


OP has a Google.doc signup sheet. At the bottom of the member list.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *texas_nightowl*


alright, I think these results are pretty decent. I just ran Intel Burn Test for first time ever and I think the H60 did pretty well. I did 5 passes of IBT at MAX (6707mb RAM out of 8). CPU at stock...basically...during IBT it ran at 3.4. In an ambient of @ 24c, the max temps reached (as reported by Core Temp) were: 54/51/56/55. And it only hit 56 on the last run, it 55 until near the end.

So if IBT is supposedly the test that pushes temps highest, I think I am good at stock and ready to start OCing.


Are mid 50s really good for your CPU at stock speed? Wow, that's a warm cpu.

Do the other i5 people here are similar temps at stock?


----------



## blackbalt89

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*


Some people have bad luck with a CPU that just runs hotter. You can try reseating your block, make sure it's not touching any capacitors on your board (I had to turn mine 90 degrees to avoid capacitors). For better CPU temps, set unit as intake (you may get warmer case temps that way though).


Yeah I know that CPU temps can benefit from intake but my 580 SLI certainly won't appreciate that. :/


----------



## C4D0Z

so, i reseated it last night and it now seems to be idling around 24C in the bios with ambient around 22C i think


----------



## Mergatroid

That's really good news. I'm glad you got it sorted out OK.


----------



## Biggiex

Hey guys, thinking of purchasing 1 of these for my new rig, i7 2600k gonna be overclocking it to about 4.5 ghz will this cooler be adequate for the job?

thanks in advance


----------



## Ceadderman

Which one are you considering? H50, H60,H70,H80 or H100?









I'm sorta biased with the H50, but the H100 seems like it would do the best of all of them. You just have to be able to mount two 120 fans in succession to be able to mount it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Famousoverdose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15138814*
> Which one are you considering? H50, H60,H70,H80 or H100?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sorta biased with the H50, but the H100 seems like it would do the best of all of them. You just have to be able to mount two 120 fans in succession to be able to mount it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


This. For the 2600K I would recommend the H100.

On a side note, how are some of you measuring your ambient temps? I really want to know lol.


----------



## Biggiex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15138814*
> Which one are you considering? H50, H60,H70,H80 or H100?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sorta biased with the H50, but the H100 seems like it would do the best of all of them. You just have to be able to mount two 120 fans in succession to be able to mount it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


A H50 is the one I'm considering at this moment in time. The radiator on the H100 looks huge :/


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Famousoverdose;15138851*
> On a side note, how are some of you measuring your ambient temps? I really want to know lol.


Some people have a digital thermometer on their desk. I use the thermostat to the apartment. I just slowly dial it up or down based on the weather until I hear that telltale click of the heat coming on or going off. That's about as exact as you can get anyway since they are thermostatically controlled. I use Temp Converter to get it converted from F to C.









I do plan on getting a desktop unit but for now my broke ass has to rough it.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## imh073p

Hey guys, I have the H100 now and it is a huge improvement over the H50 that I ran for a year. I went from 79c to 63c @4ghz after 20 passes of linpack. I'm impressed with the performance. The 2x200mm in pull helps I'm sure.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey BiggieX, what Case are you running? That might help us to figure out what to recommend.

I do have to say I love the H50 for it's versatility and modability and it gives outstanding temps. Also the price is pretty good on it in comparison to the rest. But if your case could handle 2x120, I would suggest the H100.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Biggiex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15139153*
> Hey BiggieX, what Case are you running? That might help us to figure out what to recommend.
> 
> I do have to say I love the H50 for it's versatility and modability and it gives outstanding temps. Also the price is pretty good on it in comparison to the rest. But if your case could handle 2x120, I would suggest the H100.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Cooler Master HAF 912 Plus Case is the case I will be running with.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggiex;15139332*
> Cooler Master HAF 912 Plus Case is the case I will be running with.


No problem. Get the H100. It'll mount just fine up top. You could probably mount a 200 on the top(outside) of the case and that should easily take care of your cooling needs at a lower DB.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Biggiex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15139353*
> No problem. Get the H100. It'll mount just fine up top. You could probably mount a 200 on the top(outside) of the case and that should easily take care of your cooling needs at a lower DB.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Thanks alot man!

You've been a great help, much appreciated.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *imh073p*


Hey guys, I have the H100 now and it is a huge improvement over the H50 that I ran for a year. I went from 79c to 63c @4ghz after 20 passes of linpack. I'm impressed with the performance. The 2x200mm in pull helps I'm sure.











Wow, that's a huge performance increase. When I went from the H70 to the H100 I got a new average temp that is 7c lower.


----------



## TheRedPill

How do I grab the sig to put on my profile?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheRedPill*


How do I grab the sig to put on my profile?


Does you right click Copy/Paste not work?

Edit sig in User CP?









~Ceadder


----------



## MGF Derp

Better post my pic so I am officially in the club


----------



## TheRedPill

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Does you right click Copy/Paste not work?

Edit sig in User CP?









~Ceadder










It doesn't get the formatting, and it doesn't work at all in Chrome, had to use FF just to even copy the text.

nm, got it, didn't realize the "PHP Code" was for the forum, I assumed it was for putting it on your website and didn't even look that it was php"BB". Got it.


----------



## _REAPER_

Here are a few updates of my rig


----------



## Bi2on

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*


Here are a few updates of my rig







































Nice man! Frikin' amazing cable management inside the case! I wish I could achieve something like that. Are those CoolerMaster Excaliburs on that Rad? If so how is the performance with shroud? I had them on my H50 when I first got it and when I was please with the design and super-duper features they advertised for I wasn's amazed with performance and the high pitch noise with 2 of them over 80% rpms.
No I got a H100 (recent upgrade) with two Scythe Slipstreams in High RPM and I can barely hear them, and the performance is very good.

Here's my recent upgrades, like I said I'm working on the wire management, still need to take apart the GPU power connectors and single sleeve it. Other than that I tried to do my best












































PS: How does it fell when you bump the volume on the receiver to the max with these two columns you got there ???


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*


Here are a few updates of my rig





























Ain't you sposed to be in Afghanistan right now bro?









If you r there now that's awesome work from the Sandbox.









~Ceadder


----------



## MarvinDessica

Bought a H60 yesterday. How would I go about getting another Corsair Fan for a push/pull set up?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica;15155213*
> Bought a H60 yesterday. How would I go about getting another Corsair Fan for a push/pull set up?


Get Yate Loon fans. That's what Corsair uses for all their components to my knowledge.

You can get them REALLY cheap(2x$4ea+shipping from performance-pcs)when you forgot the sleeving and then you won't have to worry about differences in rpm too much.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## MarvinDessica

This one?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=22034

EDIT: Or better yet, these!

http://www.koolertek.com/computer-parts/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=1522


----------



## Kokin

The "real" Yate Loons come from Petra's, Sidewinders and DangerDen. I have bought some from Xoxide and later on Sidewinders, and after taking both apart and comparing them, there really is a difference between the motors and blades (small but there). Tator's old experiment with Yates.

I'm not sure about the Low Speed variants, but I'm assuming they would be the same. If you don't really care about a few CFM, by all means I would suggest going for the cheapest one you can get. Any Yate Loon will not disappoint you.


----------



## MarvinDessica

Thanks, going to order some soon. +Rep


----------



## WeirdHarold

Well, just installed my H50 that has been sitting on a shelf for a while now just never seemed to get around to installing it. Dropped my idle temps on my 965BE from approx 40c to 33c, 7c drop not bad







Dropped my Prime 95 temps from approx 57c to a nice steady 48c, a 9c drop far more then I expected. Now I'm kicking myself for not installing it the moment I bought it.


----------



## Cavi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


The "real" Yate Loons come from Petra's, Sidewinders and DangerDen. I have bought some from Xoxide and later on Sidewinders, and after taking both apart and comparing them, there really is a difference between the motors and blades (small but there). Tator's old experiment with Yates.

I'm not sure about the Low Speed variants, but I'm assuming they would be the same. If you don't really care about a few CFM, by all means I would suggest going for the cheapest one you can get. Any Yate Loon will not disappoint you.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica*


This one?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=22034

EDIT: Or better yet, these!

http://www.koolertek.com/computer-pa...idproduct=1522


Have to advise to go with Petra's or one of the other shops Kokin mentioned. I've bought "Yates" from FrozenCPU and Performance PCs, and they always fail within a year.


----------



## DireLeon2010

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*


Well, just installed my H50 that has been sitting on a shelf for a while now just never seemed to get around to installing it. Dropped my idle temps on my 965BE from approx 40c to 33c, 7c drop not bad







Dropped my Prime 95 temps from approx 57c to a nice steady 48c, a 9c drop far more then I expected. Now I'm kicking myself for not installing it the moment I bought it.


This was me with my H60








And it was so easy to install


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavi;15172622*
> Have to advise to go with Petra's or one of the other shops Kokin mentioned. I've bought "Yates" from FrozenCPU and Performance PCs, and they always fail within a year.


That's a shame. My Xoxide fan is still running (I gutted one to make it into a shroud), but it has slightly heavier blades and produces slightly less CFM compared to my Sidewinder fans.


----------



## Ceadderman

I got mine from Performance-PCs' and they were great. Both types Med Speeds and High Speeds. I got great temps from both, the Mediums weren't too loud but the High Speeds can be controlled to run quieter and give the same temps. When I finish my loop I'll have HS Silents(Red LED) running without shrouds being controlled by my RheoSmart controller. I doubt there really is that much of a drop if you have them all connected via Y splitter. If you're running them singally I know there will be a difference between Petras and the rest but Petras only carries Blue flavor and non LED fans. They don't have much of a selection if any to be quite honest.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## slipee

Guys, I need some help... I have a H70 and a Q9550 on stock clocks and I'm getting hyper high temps with it...

It stays 42-44 on idle and 64-66 on 100%.

I have the stock Corsair FAN in pulling and a NZXT of 46CFM pulling air through the radiator (in exhaust mode).

Do you have any ideas about what is happening with me ?

The temps inside my case are right now, 35ºc.


----------



## Mergatroid

Hmm, you might have to try reseating the block. Make sure both fans are pointed in the same direction. Check that the pump is running full speed all the time (~1400 RPM). If you plugged it into a CPU header or if your board can control 3 pin case fans, make sure your BIOS is set to run it at 100% all the time (not regulating the pump).

What were you using before the H70 and what were your temps then?


----------



## slipee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;15195047*
> Hmm, you might have to try reseating the block. Make sure both fans are pointed in the same direction. Check that the pump is running full speed all the time (~1400 RPM). If you plugged it into a CPU header or if your board can control 3 pin case fans, make sure your BIOS is set to run it at 100% all the time (not regulating the pump).
> 
> What were you using before the H70 and what were your temps then?


I already reseated the block 3 times :/
I was using the stock cooler and was getting like 55-59 on idle and 70-72 on load.
I tried to check if the pump is running full speed all the time, and I got these results from my MB:

Corsair stock FAN running at 1400 RPM
NZXT FAN running at 1080 RPM +/-

And where I connected the pump (SYS_FAN1) (because it's 3-pins) it shows 4090 RPM (I think it's just a wrong display), is there any other way to check this?

Edit: I also created a new thread about this


----------



## Ceadderman

@slippee... Posted in your assistance required thread.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slipee;15195103*
> I already reseated the block 3 times :/
> I was using the stock cooler and was getting like 55-59 on idle and 70-72 on load.
> I tried to check if the pump is running full speed all the time, and I got these results from my MB:
> 
> Corsair stock FAN running at 1400 RPM
> NZXT FAN running at 1080 RPM +/-
> 
> And where I connected the pump (SYS_FAN1) (because it's 3-pins) it shows 4090 RPM (I think it's just a wrong display), is there any other way to check this?
> 
> Edit: I also created a new thread about this


It's probably OK, but just to be sure...do you have any 3 pin to molex adapters kicking around? They usually come with new fans. Use it to plug the pump into one of the molex connectors from the PSU just to make sure your pump is running properly. If you do not see any difference in temp, then you can put it back where it was.

Your H70 should have come with a little Y cable, and some little extensions that have resistors in them It sounds like you are using both. You can try swapping the pump connection with the fan connection and see if you get a more accurate report of the pump RPM. It's likely OK, but it would be nice to see that it is running at the proper RPM. It should be around 1400 RPM (and so should your fans since you're using the resistor cables). Just swap them and see if it reports the pump at 1400, and then check your temp.

Note, your System specs say H60, but your first message says H70. My responses have all been assuming H70 is correct. You should change your system specs from H60 to H70 if you're using an H70.


----------



## trev179

Has anyone used the h80 with cougar vortex pwm cf-v12hp in push/pull?

sorry if this was already discussed but way too many pages to be looking through


----------



## Munkypoo7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trev179;15212178*
> Has anyone used the h80 with cougar vortex pwm cf-v12hp in push/pull?
> 
> sorry if this was already discussed but way too many pages to be looking through


When a company posts bullshizz specs like this
Quote:


> Bearing Type: Hydro-Dynamic
> RPM: 800-*1500 RPM*
> Air Flow: 70.5 / *119.8(max.)* CFM
> Noise Level: *17.9dB*


The fan shouldn't even be considered. False advertising is blatant. Total garbage.


----------



## Cavi

Just wanted to come back and give an update on my RMA experience with Corsair and my leaky H50.

So I sent it to Corsair about 2 weeks ago. Their website acknowledged receipt of my defective product on the 29th of September. So all this week, I've been checking the website for updates. They have spots in their form for if it's being replaced, with what part number, and shipped date and all that. It's gone all week without being updated. I just thought maybe I didn't read the "expected" date right or something.

And today I get back home from a local festival, and see a box from Corsair! A brand spankin' new H50 in the box. No hassles whatsoever. So I've got a great experience with Corsair customer service under my belt now.

May or may not be a 100% chance you guys see this H50 in the marketplace soon


----------



## Ceadderman

Wouldn't that be 50% chance we see it in marketplace?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trev179;15212178*
> Has anyone used the h80 with cougar vortex pwm cf-v12hp in push/pull?
> 
> sorry if this was already discussed but way too many pages to be looking through


The Vortex fans only have 2.2mm/H2O static pressure while the Corsair H80 fans have 7.7mm/H20 (I assume both are at maximum speed).

This would indicate to me that the Vortex fans are better at being a case fan than a rad fan.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munkypoo7;15219462*
> When a company posts bullshizz specs like this
> 
> Bearing Type: Hydro-Dynamic
> RPM: 800-1500 RPM
> Air Flow: 70.5 / 119.8(max.) CFM
> Noise Level: 17.9dB
> 
> The fan shouldn't even be considered. False advertising is blatant. Total garbage.


What's wrong with those specs? Did you measure the fan and get something different?


----------



## theonedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*


The Vortex fans only have 2.2mm/H2O static pressure while the Corsair H80 fans have 7.7mm/H20 (I assume both are at maximum speed).

This would indicate to me that the Vortex fans are better at being a case fan than a rad fan.

What's wrong with those specs? Did you measure the fan and get something different?


I dont think any 120x25mm fan can produce 100+CFM at 1500RPM with such little noise. I don't claim to be a fan expert, but it looks like they were extremely generous with that CFM rating.


----------



## Mergatroid

Well, I would have to go with the specs before claiming false advertising. Although I can agree with your argument, I would have to test them before making any such claim.

The Scythe Slipstream 1900 RPM fans move 110 CFM, that's only 400 RPM difference. It is also possible they put the wrong spec in for this fan (I've seem companies do that, when they make a new spec sheet for a new product that is close to another product, so someone copies and pastes from one spec sheet to the new spec sheet and doesn't correct for the differences).

In any case, I have seen other people claiming that these are good fans, but I wouldn't use them on a rad.

I don't understand why everyone is in such a hurry to replace the fans on the H80 and H100. The stock fans may be a little noisy, but they have both high air flow and high static pressure which makes them great fans in my book. They're also fairly quiet when turned down.


----------



## konker91

Hello hi mushi mushi!

Have an idea that I would like to share to see if anyone else think´s it will work.

Have an H70 in an HTPC chassi. What I would like to do is to connect an extra dual 120mm radiator + res tank + gpu plock to the pump system.
Is the pump able to pump the water through all this or will it be a flop?

Happy for answers, !


----------



## Bi2on

Quote:



Originally Posted by *konker91*


Hello hi mushi mushi!

Have an idea that I would like to share to see if anyone else thinkÂ´s it will work.

Have an H70 in an HTPC chassi. What I would like to do is to connect an extra dual 120mm radiator + res tank + gpu plock to the pump system.
Is the pump able to pump the water through all this or will it be a flop?

Happy for answers, !


Hey!

You mean connect all of that to the stock pump in corsair's cpu block ??
I'm not WC expert, so somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I read somewhere that somebody tried to just add another single 120 rad to the loop + res and pump barely made it. So I would say - No - it will not make it.
Why would you want to do all of that insted getting a custom WC loop? I understand your way it would be more cost effective (if it works).


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bi2on*


Hey!

You mean connect all of that to the stock pump in corsair's cpu block ??
I'm not WC expert, so somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I read somewhere that somebody tried to just add another single 120 rad to the loop + res and pump barely made it. So I would say - No - it will not make it.
Why would you want to do all of that insted getting a custom WC loop? I understand your way it would be more cost effective (if it works).


Someone mentioned earlier in the thread that the pump would definitely not be strong enough to handle that large a loop. It's pretty much designed to push through only the one small rad. If you're going to be adding more rads, then you're probably better off just going with a full kit/custom loop.


----------



## Dave73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bi2on;15250488*
> Hey!
> 
> You mean connect all of that to the stock pump in corsair's cpu block ??
> I'm not WC expert, so somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I read somewhere that somebody tried to just add another single 120 rad to the loop + res and pump barely made it. So I would say - No - it will not make it.
> Why would you want to do all of that insted getting a custom WC loop? I understand your way it would be more cost effective (if it works).


With adding a GPU block I will say no, But adding a single 120 rad to the loop + res that has been done and works fine but did not lower temps much.

Look at the H50/H70 Mod Club here on OCN good info there.


----------



## kzone75

Hello.







I bought an H60 last Friday. But I am pretty sure there's something wrong with it. Temps are in the mid 40Cs and under load it went climbing up to 60C. This is when running my 965BE at stock. And I noted a 100C CPU temp right before the computer shut down. The pump is annoyingly noisy as well. If I flip the case on its side, the pump will be more silent, but the temps won't change. Tried different TIMs, different fans.. Question is: how much fluid is there in the loop of the H60? Because it feels and sounds like it's half empty (half full if you're an optimist







).


----------



## adjas

the water in my H70 does slosh around, can hear it, if I shake it or move it around.

Though it's cooling my i7 2600k like a champ.


----------



## Mergatroid

Back to the basics:

Make sure your block is seated properly. With the larger square blocks you could get caught on a capacitor preventing the block from seating properly (this happened to my H100 but I caught it using a flashlight before I turned the system on). The solution for me was turning the block 90 degrees.
Make sure your pump is plugged in and running at full speed. If you plugged it into the CPU header or a Case Fan header, make sure it's set to run at 100% all the time (you don't want to regulate the pump).

However, if your H60 came with a PWM fan (4 pins) like my H50 did, you can plug it into the CPU header and let the system regulate it if you like.

If you are using more than one fan, make sure they are both mounted for airflow in the same direction.

The 100c reading before shutting down is very disturbing. This is pretty serious and seem to me that, if the unit is not defective, it much be mounted incorrectly. I have you have spare TIM. You should remove the block and reseat it, making sure it is making good contact with the CPU.


----------



## PhelanJKell

Just ordered a H80, so I'm going away from custom loops to this. I'm excited, and I think they have a great product/idea as well. It will be on a i5 2500k, so from what I hear these things push 4.5-5+. Will post more details when the stuff comes in.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhelanJKell;15254834*
> Just ordered a H80, so I'm going away from custom loops to this. I'm excited, and I think they have a great product/idea as well. It will be on a i5 2500k, so from what I hear these things push 4.5-5+. Will post more details when the stuff comes in.


It depends on your chip. You can expect roughly around 1.45v to run cool enough on the H80 (under 85*C).


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;15252257*
> Back to the basics:
> 
> Make sure your block is seated properly. With the larger square blocks you could get caught on a capacitor preventing the block from seating properly (this happened to my H100 but I caught it using a flashlight before I turned the system on). The solution for me was turning the block 90 degrees.
> Make sure your pump is plugged in and running at full speed. If you plugged it into the CPU header or a Case Fan header, make sure it's set to run at 100% all the time (you don't want to regulate the pump).
> 
> However, if your H60 came with a PWM fan (4 pins) like my H50 did, you can plug it into the CPU header and let the system regulate it if you like.
> 
> If you are using more than one fan, make sure they are both mounted for airflow in the same direction.
> 
> The 100c reading before shutting down is very disturbing. This is pretty serious and seem to me that, if the unit is not defective, it much be mounted incorrectly. I have you have spare TIM. You should remove the block and reseat it, making sure it is making good contact with the CPU.


Thanks.







Tried reseating and changing TIM a couple of times. And it's tightly mounted. There are no capasitors close to the block as you can see on this pic http://i1-news.softpedia-static.com/images/news2/Gigabyte-Intros-990FXA-UD3-AMD-Bulldozer-Motherboard-2.jpg. The pump is plugged in to a molex right now (no different when I have it plugged in to the motherboard).
The H60 came with a PWM fan and I have enabled PWM in the BIOS. Right now I have the Storm Sniper on its side. I attach a SS of the temps I am getting. CnQ is enabled also. I do feel that the load temps are a lot higher than they should be. Even AMDs stock cooler does a better job.









oh and sorry about my Kylie wp.







I just think she's cute.


----------



## rudderz666

Hi i was wondering if any one could help me as i have the H70 and thinking of changing the fans on it iv ordered some scythe gentle typhoons 1850rpm (here tomorrow XD) and im thinking of changing my fan setup in my pc and wondered if any one can help me with this cheers









---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=53.820604,-1.598424


----------



## imh073p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rudderz666;15265657*
> Hi i was wondering if any one could help me as i have the H70 and thinking of changing the fans on it iv ordered some scythe gentle typhoons 1850rpm (here tomorrow XD) and im thinking of changing my fan setup in my pc and wondered if any one can help me with this cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---
> I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=53.820604,-1.598424


You might want to try the storm scout club in my sig. Every fan configuration for that case is there.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;15257428*
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried reseating and changing TIM a couple of times. And it's tightly mounted. There are no capasitors close to the block as you can see on this pic http://i1-news.softpedia-static.com/images/news2/Gigabyte-Intros-990FXA-UD3-AMD-Bulldozer-Motherboard-2.jpg. The pump is plugged in to a molex right now (no different when I have it plugged in to the motherboard).
> The H60 came with a PWM fan and I have enabled PWM in the BIOS. Right now I have the Storm Sniper on its side. I attach a SS of the temps I am getting. CnQ is enabled also. I do feel that the load temps are a lot higher than they should be. Even AMDs stock cooler does a better job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> oh and sorry about my Kylie wp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just think she's cute.


You should definitely see better temps than you do with the stock cooler. I think it's RMA time for your H60.


----------



## joeyxl

so corsair has not contacted me about the backplate or replacing my screw and nut, so i might take it off and go back to air cooling


----------



## dRaGm3n

Hey guys, i just bought the H80 and i have done something stupid.
I connected the H80 3pin connector to the MB's 3pin cpu header while the system was running,I heard a ppeewwfff and that was it. The fans and LED's on the cooler stoped working.
I think the pump works because i connected the fans with the psu and i still have low temps.
Should i open it and fix it? is it easy? what do you think?


----------



## rudderz666

imh073p thx ill try there but dose any body no what temps im looking at for this cooler iv got the Q9650 idle arround 35 -39 all 4 cores


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dRaGm3n;15272691*
> Hey guys, i just bought the H80 and i have done something stupid.
> I connected the H80 3pin connector to the MB's 3pin cpu header while the system was running,I heard a ppeewwfff and that was it. The fans and LED's on the cooler stoped working.
> I think the pump works because i connected the fans with the psu and i still have low temps.
> Should i open it and fix it? is it easy? what do you think?


If I was you I would just RMA it. It's strange that connecting the little connector that only has a tac wire to the CPU header (where it's supposed to go) would cause any problems. There's a big molex for power and the small tac connector for the CPU_FAN header. This should not have caused anything to blow up. The tac connector is on a 3-pin fan connector so I don't think you could plug it in wrong even if you wanted to. It seems foolproof to me. I would think the unit was defective.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeyxl;15272453*
> so corsair has not contacted me about the backplate or replacing my screw and nut, so i might take it off and go back to air cooling


Meh, just contact them again. They must be busy or something because it's really not like them not to get back to an inquiry.


----------



## hxcnero

so after im gonna guess 1 year and a half my corsair H50 has sprung a leak on me. granted i havent used for ~4 months. i tried hooking it up to my backup phenom rig and to my dismay a hose is leaking when the cpu is loaded.







im gonna miss the little thing.


----------



## thatrodbloke

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hxcnero*


so after im gonna guess 1 year and a half my corsair H50 has sprung a leak on me. granted i havent used for ~4 months. i tried hooking it up to my backup phenom rig and to my dismay a hose is leaking when the cpu is loaded.







im gonna miss the little thing.



That's a shame.

Was there any damage to any other parts?

You should RMA it, I believe corsair offers a 5 year warranty?


----------



## hxcnero

it didn't damage any other parts. i set it up on my desk before i put all the components in the case to make sure everything still worked. so the rad was away from any sensitive components. I'm in the process of RMA now, my only worry is i no longer have the original fan that came with the H50


----------



## grillinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hxcnero;15309353*
> it didn't damage any other parts. i set it up on my desk before i put all the components in the case to make sure everything still worked. so the rad was away from any sensitive components. I'm in the process of RMA now, my only worry is i no longer have the original fan that came with the H50


Haven't been on this thread for a while (or OCN in general really) but it seems that every time I'm here I see a story about somebody's H50 springing a leak. Is it just me or is this becoming more common as these units get older? I'm only worried because I leave my rig folding during the day running my H50 and I'm too poor to replace all my parts.


----------



## Mergatroid

It's just you. I'm on this thread regularly and I have seen a total of about three people complaining about leaks (from the beginning of the thread). This is the first time I've heard of a hose leaking. The other cases I have heard about have been the hose joint at the block, one seam on a rad and one seam on a block.

If you consider how many people have purchased these coolers, the tiny little number of people who have gotten leaks is really a pittance. The great thing is they have a long warranty, and corsair has a history of replacing any equipment damaged by leaks caused by a manufacturing defect.


----------



## grillinman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*


It's just you. I'm on this thread regularly and I have seen a total of about three people complaining about leaks (from the beginning of the thread). This is the first time I've heard of a hose leaking. The other cases I have heard about have been the hose joint at the block, one seam on a rad and one seam on a block.

If you consider how many people have purchased these coolers, the tiny little number of people who have gotten leaks is really a pittance. The great thing is they have a long warranty, and corsair has a history of replacing any equipment damaged by leaks caused by a manufacturing defect.


Good.


----------



## Ceadderman

Preach it Mergatroid.









@hxcnero... I don't think you have to worry about the fan since while it is part of the unit, they don't have a system recovery warranty because of the fan. Pretty sure they don't expect you to send that part of the unit in. If nothing else just look for a cheap one to toss in the box if that's what they want. It's not like they're gonna reman it and put it back out on the market.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dave73

I got my H50 back in July 2009, Has been running 12-16 hours a day 7 days a week. The durability is great and my temps is the same as the day I put it in, Cannot ask for better than that. I think I will take the pump apart and see if there is any wear in it. Planning a new build in a few months with a custom w/c kit so that will be the time see.


----------



## ja3s

Just received my h100. After an hour of tinkering and modding my case, I finally got it mounted. Granted it's a ghetto rigged external setup. Had to cut out my rear grill so I could slip the radiator through the back. This is only temporary until I order some brackets to hold it better.

I removed the stock applied paste and used some MX-2 I had from my last heatsink. So far idle temps have dropped a few degrees compared to the H60 I just removed. Probably won't test load temps till tomorrow afternoon/evening.










Quick question: Is the fan from an H60 the same as the fans from the h100?


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay, I'm game why'd you do that? It looks to me that H100 would fit snugly inside the 230 mounting space.









~Ceadder


----------



## OCPower

I joined this forum just to post here when I was checking out computers!
I want a all aluminum H-100 for my i7 6 core extreme build!
I see this thread started years ago and is it still the best performing/price cooler for processors out there? Will I have better luck with air cooling?
Thanks and welcome me here!


----------



## ja3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15315889*
> Okay, I'm game why'd you do that? It looks to me that H100 would fit snugly inside the 230 mounting space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Looks can be deceiving. Yeah, I have the mounting area, but this rad only works for certain motherboard layouts. I happen to have a layout that won't allow me to mount this inside the case. The atx plug is at the top left corner and only had a few cm of clearance with the rad mounted. That means no room for fans.

As for the performace.. Well, I went ahead and set up a blend test and left it on over night. Put an alarm for 80c on RealTemp and fell asleep. With the h60, it took 30 minutes of blend to reach 80c temps. With this cooler, it took 3 and a half hours to reach 80c. I guess you could say that's an improvement, but I'd love it if it never came close to 80c. I'm running 1.424v @ 5.0GHz on my i5 2500k.


----------



## djriful

I just realize they discontinued the original H70 to a cheaper downgraded H70 CORE due they want to make a some stepping differences between H80... = which makes H80 more appealing...

H70 CORE is junk compare to the original H70.


----------



## kcuestag

A small update;


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ja3s*


Looks can be deceiving. Yeah, I have the mounting area, but this rad only works for certain motherboard layouts. I happen to have a layout that won't allow me to mount this inside the case. The atx plug is at the top left corner and only had a few cm of clearance with the rad mounted. That means no room for fans.

As for the performace.. Well, I went ahead and set up a blend test and left it on over night. Put an alarm for 80c on RealTemp and fell asleep. With the h60, it took 30 minutes of blend to reach 80c temps. With this cooler, it took 3 and a half hours to reach 80c. I guess you could say that's an improvement, but I'd love it if it never came close to 80c. I'm running 1.424v @ 5.0GHz on my i5 2500k.


Have you considered "lapping" that Sandy Bridge and H100 cold plate? Lapping the CPU would drop your temps on it's own and while difficult that cold plate would be a much flatter surface to allow better coverage of your TIM without having to fill a lot of nooks and crannies. But first you might try removing the stock TIM and replacing it with a smaller amount of Shin Etsu G751. It's the same stuff that is on every Hydro Series cooler. But their manufacturers just put too much of the stuff on. Thicker is not better in this instance.









~Ceadder


----------



## skyline_king88

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ja3s*


Just received my h100. After an hour of tinkering and modding my case, I finally got it mounted. Granted it's a ghetto rigged external setup. Had to cut out my rear grill so I could slip the radiator through the back. This is only temporary until I order some brackets to hold it better.

I removed the stock applied paste and used some MX-2 I had from my last heatsink. So far idle temps have dropped a few degrees compared to the H60 I just removed. Probably won't test load temps till tomorrow afternoon/evening.










Quick question: Is the fan from an H60 the same as the fans from the h100?


hello i want to do this for mine on the 922 and i was wonderin if u could give some back case pics and inside please


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *djriful*


I just realize they discontinued the original H70 to a cheaper downgraded H70 CORE due they want to make a some stepping differences between H80... = which makes H80 more appealing...

H70 CORE is junk compare to the original H70.


Man, all they did is not supply fans. Most people changed the fans on the H70 anyway (including me when I was using the H70). This is a great move by Corsair to make this cooler less expensive but still a good performing cooler. People can select whatever fan(s) they like and not end up paying for two fans that they don't use but come with the cooler anyway. I would hardly call it junk. The H40 CORE also looks like a decent product, especially for the $49 MSRP (likely lower "street price"). Why come into a thread like this one, where there are a lot of people knowledgeable in these coolers and make a statement like that with nothing to back it up?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ja3s*


Looks can be deceiving. Yeah, I have the mounting area, but this rad only works for certain motherboard layouts. I happen to have a layout that won't allow me to mount this inside the case. The atx plug is at the top left corner and only had a few cm of clearance with the rad mounted. That means no room for fans.



Although I think your mounting solution looks pretty cool (no pun intended), your case would have been a perfect candidate for mounting the rad on top and the fans externally, and covering the fans with an external shroud. I've seen this done on a Corsair 650D case and it looks awesome.

Here is a link to the 650D I was talking about. Although your case is different and he's using a custom loop, this would still allow you to mount the H100 up top if you wanted to, and I think the shroud he's using looks great and would really compliment your case as well:

http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...-tower-76.html

SortOfGrim did an excellent job on his 650D. The way your H100 is mounted you could try (if you haven't already) adding another set of fans in push/pull and see of you get a few less degrees out of it?

@kcuestag Your system looks fantastic. I really like it. Great job.


----------



## Fasista

join the club, I have the H100


----------



## ja3s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Have you considered "lapping" that Sandy Bridge and H100 cold plate? Lapping the CPU would drop your temps on it's own and while difficult that cold plate would be a much flatter surface to allow better coverage of your TIM without having to fill a lot of nooks and crannies. But first you might try removing the stock TIM and replacing it with a smaller amount of Shin Etsu G751. It's the same stuff that is on every Hydro Series cooler. But their manufacturers just put too much of the stuff on. Thicker is not better in this instance.









~Ceadder










Would lapping the cpu void my warranty? Pretty sure it does. Also, I'm not sure of any place that may be able to do it, carefully, in my area. But it is an option. I wouldn't mind getting the H100 lapped.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skyline_king88*

hello i want to do this for mine on the 922 and i was wonderin if u could give some back case pics and inside please


All I did was cut out the rear grill, and slip the radiator through. Then used the bottom 2 screws to hold it against the case.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*

Although I think your mounting solution looks pretty cool (no pun intended), your case would have been a perfect candidate for mounting the rad on top and the fans externally, and covering the fans with an external shroud. I've seen this done on a Corsair 650D case and it looks awesome.

Here is a link to the 650D I was talking about. Although your case is different and he's using a custom loop, this would still allow you to mount the H100 up top if you wanted to, and I think the shroud he's using looks great and would really compliment your case as well:

http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...-tower-76.html

SortOfGrim did an excellent job on his 650D. The way your H100 is mounted you could try (if you haven't already) adding another set of fans in push/pull and see of you get a few less degrees out of it?


If i were to mount it in the top part of the case, there would be a gap between the grill and the radiator. Even with a shroud, it wouldn't seal and I'd be losing some air flow (Logically speaking. I could be wrong). I wish I was able to mount it inside. Every cut I did to the rear of the case made me cringe.

Now, I'm thinking of modding it and running a reservoir with some new lines to make it cleaner looking and hopefully help drop temps.

I don't have any other high cfm/static pressure fans to use to try other configurations. I have (2) CM Sickleflows, (2) SilenX 120mms, (1) fan off my hyper 212+ heatsink, (1) h60 stock fan, (1) antec 3-speed fan.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ja3s;15325141*
> Would lapping the cpu void my warranty? Pretty sure it does. Also, I'm not sure of any place that may be able to do it, carefully, in my area. But it is an option. I wouldn't mind getting the H100 lapped.


As soon as the surface touches the paper warranty is void. But I doubt you'll need the warranty since you know your Sandy is working.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ja3s;15325141*
> If i were to mount it in the top part of the case, there would be a gap between the grill and the radiator. Even with a shroud, it wouldn't seal and I'd be losing some air flow (Logically speaking. I could be wrong). I wish I was able to mount it inside. Every cut I did to the rear of the case made me cringe.
> 
> Now, I'm thinking of modding it and running a reservoir with some new lines to make it cleaner looking and hopefully help drop temps.
> 
> I don't have any other high cfm/static pressure fans to use to try other configurations. I have (2) CM Sickleflows, (2) SilenX 120mms, (1) fan off my hyper 212+ heatsink, (1) h60 stock fan, (1) antec 3-speed fan.


That's what they make silicon fan gaskets for.









As for high SP fans get some Yate Loons and you'll have a hell of a cooler on your hands. They aren't the highest SP but have a lot of bang for your buck.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## ja3s

If it's not too much trouble, could you link me to the specific fan you are referring to? And would it be a push, pull or push/pull config?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ja3s;15329611*
> If it's not too much trouble, could you link me to the specific fan you are referring to? And would it be a push, pull or push/pull config?


Go to Performance-PCs.com and look in their 120 listings. I would link you to Yate Loon High Speeds or Medium Speed fans but they have 3 flavors of LED models as well a the non LED model. You can get them for $4 each when you scroll to remove the sleeving option.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Lenster

I am replacing my case and will use the opportunity to replace my H50 with an H100. Question: is the LGA 775 backplate I am currently using for the H50 compatible with the H100 or do I need to change it?

Thanks

Len


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lenster;15332160*
> I am replacing my case and will use the opportunity to replace my H50 with an H100. Question: is the LGA 775 backplate I am currently using for the H50 compatible with the H100 or do I need to change it?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Len


The H100 has it's own backplate and is compatible with the LGA775 platform.

Corsair H100 Product Website


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ja3s;15325141*
> 
> If i were to mount it in the top part of the case, there would be a gap between the grill and the radiator. Even with a shroud, it wouldn't seal and I'd be losing some air flow (Logically speaking. I could be wrong). I wish I was able to mount it inside. Every cut I did to the rear of the case made me cringe.
> 
> Now, I'm thinking of modding it and running a reservoir with some new lines to make it cleaner looking and hopefully help drop temps.
> 
> I don't have any other high cfm/static pressure fans to use to try other configurations. I have (2) CM Sickleflows, (2) SilenX 120mms, (1) fan off my hyper 212+ heatsink, (1) h60 stock fan, (1) antec 3-speed fan.


The rad won't mount flush with the "indent" at the top? That's too bad.

Corsair George has mentioned a few times that static pressure is not as important for pull fans as it is for push fans. Also, airflow doesn't have to be quite as high for the pull fans since the push fans are pushing through a rad and don't get their full flow anyway. If I was you I think I would experiment a little and see if anything I had would improve my temps a little. Even so, if's not a major requirement since the temp difference will likely only be a couple of degrees anyway. Your mounting solution still looks pretty good so no worries...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ja3s;15329611*
> If it's not too much trouble, could you link me to the specific fan you are referring to? And would it be a push, pull or push/pull config?


Use them as pull. The stock H100 fans are pretty awesome for both static pressure and air flow (cfm). Use them as push.

Personally, I would try and find some fans that will move over 60cfm to use as pull fans. I'm using Scythe 1900 RPM High Speed Slip Stream fans that move 110 cfm as pull fans on my H100. IMHO it would be best to try and get pull fans that are at least in the same ball park as the stock H100 fans for airflow. The stock fans will move 92 cfm at full speed but of course are blocked by the rad so they will not achieve that full 92 CFM. The stock fans also have a static pressure of 7.7mm/H20 at full speed. The Loon high speed fans would be perfect for pull at 88 cfm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lenster;15332160*
> I am replacing my case and will use the opportunity to replace my H50 with an H100. Question: is the LGA 775 backplate I am currently using for the H50 compatible with the H100 or do I need to change it?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Len


Others have asked this question, and Corsair has said that you can use the H50/70 back plate if you want to. I would use the H100 plate myself but if you're trying to avoid removing your mobo you can use the H50 back plate.


----------



## Lenster

Mergatroid. Thanks. I will probably wind up using the backplate that comes with the H100
(If I'm not feeling too lazy)

Len


----------



## ja3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15331465*
> Go to Performance-PCs.com and look in their 120 listings. I would link you to Yate Loon High Speeds or Medium Speed fans but they have 3 flavors of LED models as well a the non LED model. You can get them for $4 each when you scroll to remove the sleeving option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Would you run these in push/pull? Or use them as pull with the stock corsair fans as push? The 2 sickle flow fans I have are ~70cfm. I guess I could try a few different fans before I buy anything.

I think I'm going to try and lap the heatsink of the h100 and a cleaner mount. What is the optimal way to place the paste? Dot in the center, cross, one or two lines, 4 dots?


----------



## ja3s

Anyone know anything about these fans?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_49&products_id=27664


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ja3s;15337086*
> Would you run these in push/pull? Or use them as pull with the stock corsair fans as push? The 2 sickle flow fans I have are ~70cfm. I guess I could try a few different fans before I buy anything.
> 
> I think I'm going to try and lap the heatsink of the h100 and a cleaner mount. What is the optimal way to place the paste? Dot in the center, cross, one or two lines, 4 dots?


My personal experience with Shin Etsu G751 is a pea sized dot in the center of the CPU and let the weight of the pump spread it instead of spreading then mounting the pump.

Some folks are convinced that Intel CPUs' have to use the line method on them. But to me that's just a suggestion of the manufacturer and is an old method that while it works wastes TIM and allows air bubbles to form on the CPU because you're gonna twist the pump to lock it in place which helps spread the TIM even more. But if you apply a pea to the center it gets squished and twisted out to cover the same surface with little to no chance of air bubbles forming in the TIM. Just make sure not to leave a tail from the nozzle of the syringe when you remove it from the distribution process.









And you can run Yate Loons in Push or Push Pull. It's pretty much up to you. But I wouldn't run them(or any model of fan) in Pull because you won't get the best bang for your buck in that type of setup.









I've no experience with that Koolance unit however.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## ja3s

I was able to lower my vcore down from 1.424 to 1.408. After about 2 hours on a prime blend with 90% ram usage, temps spiked to 77c (hottest core) for a second or two, then settled down to ~70c across the board. A little happy about that, but bummed if I'm not able to optimize the cooler for better temps. I'd like to try to hit a higher clock (currently @ 5ghz), but temps are my barrier.

About to try a remount with the pea method. If that doesn't work, I'm going to lap the heatsink and possibly the cpu.


----------



## Lutfij

here's my take on the corsair unit with my NB block










then into this










gallery *here*


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ja3s;15337211*
> Anyone know anything about these fans?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_49&products_id=27664


From the specs, those look like good fans. Your sickle flow fans have a good airflow spec at 70 cfm (not bad at all). If I was you I'd give them a try before spending more money. If you decide you don't like them then try out the Koolance Fan you linked to. They look pretty good.

Here is an excellent article on TIM and it's application on different surfaces. They say the "pea size" is too big and you end up with too much TIM. They recommend a BB size drop. However, they tested different applications on different finishes and different shapes of surfaces. They have pictures to show how well the different applications cover the different surfaces. Personally I go by what that article shows now since they show you proof of spread. The picture I have attached is particularly telling.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij;15346724*
> here's my take on the corsair unit with my NB block


That's freaking awesome man. Did you jot down your before and after temps? I'd LOVE to see them. Nice job!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*










http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...=150&Itemid=62


But that is a stock heatsink fan. So of course pea size would be too much since it would squish outside the copper plate and into the vanes. The hydro series plates are a bit larger and get better contact. You're correct in that a Full Sized pea amount would be too much. But I would suggest more the size of wasabi than sweet pea.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15352591*
> But that is a stock heatsink fan. So of course pea size would be too much since it would squish outside the copper plate and into the vanes. The hydro series plates are a bit larger and get better contact. You're correct in that a Full Sized pea amount would be too much. But I would suggest more the size of wasabi than sweet pea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


You're right, but the area of the CPU that needs cooling is no larger than the area on the matching stock heatsink.

What's a wasabi? (I hope it's not something like a henweigh).


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*


You're right, but the area of the CPU that needs cooling is no larger than the area on the matching stock heatsink.

What's a wasabi? (I hope it's not something like a henweigh).


It's that Japanese pea that is more like a green molotov cocktail in your mouth. It's bigger than what Benchmark suggests and smaller than your garden variety pea.









~Ceadder


----------



## skyline_king88

Add me corsair h100 will post pics tm


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


It's that Japanese pea that is more like a green molotov cocktail in your mouth. It's bigger than what Benchmark suggests and smaller than your garden variety pea.









~Ceadder










wasabi <3

I remember the first time I took my girlfriend to a japanese restaurant, and made her try out wasabi, just didn't tell her it was spicey, imagine the amount she took, she almost wanted to kill me.









Back on topic, the Corsair H80 is doing an amazing job keeping my i7 2600k @ 4.8GHz under 75ÂºC folding 24/7.


----------



## Ceadderman

Haha mouth full of wasabi. I love wasabi. Burns hair out your nose and ears and it's replaced south of the border where the darkest part of your posterior resides.









~Ceadder


----------



## ja3s

How does the H100 control fan speed? Is it by voltage? Would I be fine running the 2 stock fans, plus my 2 sickleflow fans (2000rpm) on the highest setting?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ja3s;15368072*
> How does the H100 control fan speed? Is it by voltage? Would I be fine running the 2 stock fans, plus my 2 sickleflow fans (2000rpm) on the highest setting?


Fan speed is controlled by PWM connection on Mainboard. Corsair recommends plugging the pump into a different header like PWR or some other header that can be adjusted to Ignore or 100% for the Block/Pump. Some boards can do that from the PWM/CPU header. But there are still boards where that doesn't happen.

You can also control your fans via Fan Controller.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## ja3s

I tried plugging them into the block and they just got real hot and didn't spin. I plugged them into the motherboard and temps are looking rather nice.

So, I'm running the stock fans in push and the sickleflows in pull. Cut out the top grill so I can mount my rad outside of the case, horizontally.

Wonder if my 200mm fan would work better as the pull fan? Moves a lot more cfm, but a lot less rpm.


----------



## ja3s

Love these idle temps :}


----------



## longroadtrip

Very nice temps!


----------



## twm.7

Here's mine :

Inside w/o flash:








Inside w/ flash:









I'll redo the cable management when sleeving the PSU.
I still don't know which color I'll get.


----------



## Ceadderman

Add some ambient lighting and you wouldn't need flash.







lol

~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## FedeVi

Holy **** just mounted my new H60 and now i get 40°C at full load! I know that's just an i5 2400 but that's quite a good result anyway.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15371856*
> Fan speed is controlled by PWM connection on Mainboard. Corsair recommends plugging the pump into a different header like PWR or some other header that can be adjusted to Ignore or 100% for the Block/Pump. Some boards can do that from the PWM/CPU header. But there are still boards where that doesn't happen.
> 
> You can also control your fans via Fan Controller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


No man, it's not. The only thing from the H100 plugged into the main board is the tac line into the CPU_FAN header so you don't get a fan error. The fans are run from the pump/block. The fans that come with it are 3 pin fans. It has two additional 4 pin connectors available that can run either 3 pin or 4 pin fans.

The only other connector is the molex connector that goes to the power supply. The H80 and H100 are not like the H50/H70.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ja3s;15373491*
> I tried plugging them into the block and they just got real hot and didn't spin. I plugged them into the motherboard and temps are looking rather nice.
> 
> So, I'm running the stock fans in push and the sickleflows in pull. Cut out the top grill so I can mount my rad outside of the case, horizontally.
> 
> Wonder if my 200mm fan would work better as the pull fan? Moves a lot more cfm, but a lot less rpm.


There is a problem with your block. You better RMA it. It should control the stock fans without issue. I have four fans plugged into my H100 block.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15363076*
> Haha mouth full of wasabi. I love wasabi. Burns hair out your nose and ears and it's replaced south of the border where the darkest part of your posterior resides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


Reminds me of a Johnny Cash song (well, not quite).

Whoa whoa whoa ring of fire......


----------



## 77crazyburn77

i have a question guys, where do i plug the pump and fan on the motherboard ?


----------



## Swiftdeathz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munkypoo7;15219462*
> When a company posts bullshizz specs like this
> 
> Bearing Type: Hydro-Dynamic
> RPM: 800-1500 RPM
> Air Flow: 70.5 / 119.8(max.) CFM
> Noise Level: 17.9dB
> 
> The fan shouldn't even be considered. False advertising is blatant. Total garbage.


That's actually a typo. The second value which is listed as cfm is actually m3/h. I know because I bought a similair fan, and it's listed on the box as m3/h (I bought the non-pwm 1200 rpm version).

1.7 x 70.5 cfm = 119.8 m3/h

But manufacturers not being accurate with their cfm, db, static pressure, measurements tend to rarely be spot on.


----------



## ja3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;15385797*
> There is a problem with your block. You better RMA it. It should control the stock fans without issue. I have four fans plugged into my H100 block.


My block controls the stock fans just fine. It was the (2) sickleflow fans that I was having trouble with. I don't mind running them at full speed anyways. They are not too noticeable.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *77crazyburn77;15387162*
> i have a question guys, where do i plug the pump and fan on the motherboard ?


For your H60?

Fan to CPU fan header and pump to 12v fan header or PSU via a molex plug.

Disable power saving options in BIOS so fan can run at full speed.

Otherwise, if you want some control over your fan(s), use a fan controller OR plug the fans into a 12v fan header(s) and control via speedfan.


----------



## PathOfTheRighteousMan

H100..










I wanted a Rasa kit but without the hassle of refills.

2x Zalman 1225CSF 1,800RPM BLED120's.
The rear fan with the 2 LED's is off of a Zalman CNPS 10X Extreme

Upgrading to 4 Antec TriCool BLED120's next week. along with my final rig and not the POS that you see in the pic. Just for testing the H100 before putting in the real goodies. As for speeds, haven't once changed the profile from the lowest, havent needed to.


----------



## chinmi

my h80....










planned to replace it with a h100 and 4 fan blow suck configuration when i get a bigger case...


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;15250957*
> Hello.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bought an H60 last Friday. But I am pretty sure there's something wrong with it. Temps are in the mid 40Cs and under load it went climbing up to 60C. This is when running my 965BE at stock. And I noted a 100C CPU temp right before the computer shut down. The pump is annoyingly noisy as well. If I flip the case on its side, the pump will be more silent, but the temps won't change. Tried different TIMs, different fans.. Question is: how much fluid is there in the loop of the H60? Because it feels and sounds like it's half empty (half full if you're an optimist
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


Sorry I'm a little behind on the thread.

Yeah I'd say something isn't working the way it should cause I'm running the same processor at stock clocks with an H50 and running prime I can't get the temp to go past about 48c and it idles at about 32c. Also mine makes no noise at all if it's making that much noise I'd take it back or contact Corsair it sounds like they are standing behind these things.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Hey I've seen a bunch of people on the last several pages asking where to plug in the pump and fans, I know this video is for the H50 but it gives the basics on installing any of the Hydro series coolers. If you have the H100 the pump/block has some fan headers but I don't think I'd personally use them if I had one would just use a molex fan adapter.

H50 Install Video:
http://youtu.be/PUxoFiFuS_g

H80 & H100 Install Video:
http://youtu.be/BWWFjsJONYc


----------



## eySON

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinmi;15396360*
> my h80....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> planned to replace it with a h100 and 4 fan blow suck configuration when i get a bigger case...


definitely need a bigger case lol


----------



## FireAroundTheBrim

Got my H60 the other day! Waiting for my case to come in for actual pics!


Spoiler: pics


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;15385797*
> No man, it's not. The only thing from the H100 plugged into the main board is the tac line into the CPU_FAN header so you don't get a fan error. The fans are run from the pump/block. The fans that come with it are 3 pin fans. It has two additional 4 pin connectors available that can run either 3 pin or 4 pin fans.
> 
> Reminds me of a Johnny Cash song (well, not quite).
> 
> Whoa whoa whoa ring of fire......










Corsair







'ed me.









Haha I was thunking the same thin when I typed that out.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PathOfTheRighteousMan;15394944*
> Upgrading to 4 Antec TriCool BLED120's next week.


I hope you don't mean Antec TriCools on your H100. They are decent case fans if they were included with your case, but for rads, they don't perform that well.


----------



## Exostenza

No love for the H60?

Sent from my HTC ShooterU using Tapatalk


----------



## kzone75

Seems like I have somehow fixed the high temps. The H60 is now running at 29C idle (CnQ enabled) and 51C full load. Think I could get the load temps down a tad more if I lapped the block. But it'll do for now. 
But I can't run with one fan only. I still get high temps then. Got one Noctua 120mm and some blue LED Antec 120mm. Will get another Noctua fan later on.


----------



## PathOfTheRighteousMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin;15405844*
> I hope you don't mean Antec TriCools on your H100. They are decent case fans if they were included with your case, but for rads, they don't perform that well.


Akasa DFB122512L are the fans going on the H100, I'm putting the TriCool's on the 4 fan mesh panel.

But the Zalman F3's seem to be doing a good job as is. Which would be better? 4xAkasa or 4xZalman?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PathOfTheRighteousMan*


Akasa DFB122512L are the fans going on the H100, I'm putting the TriCool's on the 4 fan mesh panel.

But the Zalman F3's seem to be doing a good job as is. Which would be better? 4xAkasa or 4xZalman?


I'm not too knowledgeable about the Akasa DFB122512L fans, though I did read somewhere that they were the H50 stock fans or similar to them, though I'm not sure if that is true.

I do know the Zalman F3's perform much better than the Akasa fans and slightly beat the Yate Loon High Speeds many of us here use, while having a lower RPM/noise closer to the Yate Loon Medium Speeds. The only drawback is that the Zalman F3's are Sleeve-bearing, so they don't perform as well in a horizontal position versus the Akasa fans, which are double-ball bearing, which can do both vertical and horizontal positions.

To be honest, I wouldn't look past Yate Loon Med or High Speed fans($4-$7) for rads unless you're willing to spend more cash for Scythe Gentle Typhoons($15+).

Refer to this thread for fan comparisons.


----------



## Ceadderman

Akasa are *similar* to the stock fans which are rebadged Yate Loons.









~Ceadder


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin;15412802*
> To be honest, I wouldn't look past Yate Loon Med or High Speed fans($4-$7) for rads unless you're willing to spend more cash for Scythe Gentle Typhoons($15+).
> 
> Refer to this thread for fan comparisons.


I love my Yate Loon high speed fans. I'm very confident saying that you can't find a better performing fan for the price of them. On my H50 I saw a 3-4C drop in load temps in p/p over p/p CM R4's but the Yate highs are definitely a good bit louder than the R4's.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Akasa are *similar* to the stock fans which are rebadged Yate Loons.









~Ceadder










Well there you go! Someone confirmed it.

I'd still recommend Yate Loons over the Akasas even if they are sleeve bearing, just because of the price/performance ratio.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


I love my Yate Loon high speed fans. I'm very confident saying that you can't find a better performing fan for the price of them. On my H50 I saw a 3-4C drop in load temps in p/p over p/p CM R4's but the Yate highs are definitely a good bit louder than the R4's.


Cooler Master R4s are pretty much in the same league as Yate Loon Medium Speeds in terms of performance and noise, so it only makes sense for the High Speeds to do better.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup but I would definitely look into a Fan Controller like the RheoSmart series which run up to 30watts per channel and really do a solid job of down volting them to decrease their sound profile. Very nice when they are not much louder than Medium Speeds when you don't need the increased cooling.









~Ceadder


----------



## W.ASUS

I think to try Noiseblocker Multiframe 2000RPM push-pull on Corsair H70.
If anyone tryied ???


----------



## [email protected]

I saw a thread where someone actually managed to get the Corsair H100 to fit the rear of the case. I wonder how the hell they did that. I was told it would not fit there? I saw pictures too. They fit.


----------



## Mergatroid

If you google h100 reviews you will find one in which the author also mounts the h100 in the rear. It's simply a case with 2 x 120mm mounts in the rear.


----------



## ltg2227

thinking about getting a pair of Scythe Gentle Typhoon's, are they still a good bet for my h70? I don't really like my Ultra Kaze fans.


----------



## Mergatroid

Yes, those are great fans.


----------



## michintom

Took a quick shot before switching it to intake from exhaust.
Dropped my temps by 3c

DSC_0615 by imxkal, on Flickr


----------



## ltg2227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;15424377*
> Yes, those are great fans.


would these be a good pair in P/P?

Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm x 25mm Fan - 1850 RPM (D1225C12B5AP-15)


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ltg2227;15427254*
> would these be a good pair in P/P?
> 
> Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm x 25mm Fan - 1850 RPM (D1225C12B5AP-15)


Just about one of the best fans for rads. Does great on Med-High FPI rads (XSPC RS series) or you can even lower their speeds for Low FPI rads (XSPC RX series).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15414580*
> Yup but I would definitely look into a Fan Controller like the RheoSmart series which run up to 30watts per channel and really do a solid job of down volting them to decrease their sound profile. Very nice when they are not much louder than Medium Speeds when you don't need the increased cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I definitely recommend the RheoSmart6 if you're looking for a great 6channel fan controller for around $20 (from Xoxide). Much better than hooking my fans up to my motherboard headers and using speedfan to control them.

You can also have the RheoSmart6 have an Automatic mode based on the PWM of your CPU-header or have it on Manual mode with the knobs on the controller.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected];15417305*
> I saw a thread where someone actually managed to get the Corsair H100 to fit the rear of the case. I wonder how the hell they did that. I was told it would not fit there? I saw pictures too. They fit.


It fits, but requires a bit of modding to align the 2 rear fans with the rad. You could alternatively just connect the rad to one of the two fans, though the other fan will not entirely cover some of its rad area.

People have done this with 240mm rads prior to the release of H100, so it's practically the same thing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michintom;15426354*
> Took a quick shot before switching it to intake from exhaust.
> Dropped my temps by 3c
> -snip-
> DSC_0615 by imxkal, on Flickr


Nice photo! I always try recommending rear intake over rear exhaust when people have a huge exhaust fan on top of the rad. I saw a 5-7°C difference between idle and load temps whenever I switched intake/exhaust setups.


----------



## KuuFA

Add me!
I've had my h50 since it came out and so far i haven't had any problems! although i was hitting scarey temps earlier i learned that my vcore was hitting the 1.5v on auto lol..... i just recently lapped it to almost mirror finish:










heres a crappy photo of it in my case i am not sure my fan set up is good... but ill put the indicators of flow..... if anyone can help me optimize it (I've been changing fan set ups like crazy) than that would be amazing!









and just incase you cant read that lol the case door has a 200mm CM fan blowing in


----------



## 1ceTr0n

So i've been hearing about this crap loads for months since getting back on to build my system below after catching up PC desktop world.

I haven't done watercooling since 2002 on my Athlon Thourouhbred with a custom Danger Den kit. It was alot of fun to try, but it was a holy hell of a mess at times and made it a real PITA to move the case during LAN parties

I"m not much of an overclocker with my i5 2500k, but the ease, simplicity and the fact I don't even have to replace the water in this intrigues. Curious how well it would do in a Antec mini p-180 if I got the H80.

To bad they don't make a system to cool GPU"s, or I might be really tempted.


----------



## Hexusdfx

Just snagged an H50 that has never been used but is almost three years old. Anyone having issues with evaporation on some of the older ones? I also recently used one that had been in my closet for about a year and at times it sounds like its pumping air.


----------



## Hexusdfx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kokin*


I hope you don't mean Antec TriCools on your H100. They are decent case fans if they were included with your case, but for rads, they don't perform that well.


I have TriCools on my H80 and its performed quite well. Great fans IMO


----------



## jojoenglish85

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KuuFA*


Add me! 
I've had my h50 since it came out and so far i haven't had any problems! although i was hitting scarey temps earlier i learned that my vcore was hitting the 1.5v on auto lol..... i just recently lapped it to almost mirror finish:










heres a crappy photo of it in my case i am not sure my fan set up is good... but ill put the indicators of flow..... if anyone can help me optimize it (I've been changing fan set ups like crazy) than that would be amazing!









and just incase you cant read that lol the case door has a 200mm CM fan blowing in










That wiring job looks scary lol


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jojoenglish85*









That wiring job looks scary lol


Lol you have no idea how many wires are in the back of the case lol those wires are the wires that i only need







but i got the psu cheap about 3 years ago so i cant complain lol...


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jojoenglish85*









That wiring job looks scary lol


Don't diss his cables... Dis his air flow







... Lol... Jk man... But I would seriously give that an hour or two... You would be impressed at what you can do when u put ur mind to it


----------



## Kokin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hexusdfx*


I have TriCools on my H80 and its performed quite well. Great fans IMO


For me, they do just okay. I've tried my Tricools in push/pull with my H50 and they do their job decently. However, Tricools just don't come close to my Yate Loon fans in terms of noise/performance for the H50.

At similar speeds, my Yate Loons would perform better at a nicer acoustic level, except for when the Yates run at 100% (2200RPM). This is probably due to the Yates having a larger angle of attack (blades using a more aggresive curve) vs the Tricools.


----------



## tuanhoang314

im in


----------



## connzy

edit: worked it out guys, i done the screw of my h80 up with a screwdriver instead of by hand and now full load temps at 4.2ghz stay under 70'C

anyway can i join


----------



## Kieran

I currently have my H100 fans as exhausts, is it better to have them as intakes?
At the moment i have a 200mm front intake, a 200mm side intake and the 2 120mm fans on the H100 as exhausts.


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kieran*


I currently have my H100 fans as exhausts, is it better to have them as intakes?
At the moment i have a 200mm front intake, a 200mm side intake and the 2 120mm fans on the H100 as exhausts.


You will get better cpu temps with the rad fans as intakes. In my case when I tried my H50 as p/p intake my cpu load temps dropped 4-5C but because my video card doesn't exhaust its heat out of the case my video card's load temps climbed 5-7C due to the excess heat the rad was forcing into the case using it as an intake. With my current OC my cpu temps are well below the danger zone so I really had no reason to leave it as an intake and make my video card run hotter. Just a heads up if you do try the rad fans as intakes. Use a filter.

This is what my H50 looked like after just a few days as intakes with no filter. My home is clean and pet free and my computer is up off the floor and it still sucked up everything.


----------



## joeyxl

so has anyone had luck with finding screws

Send fromy P-509 using tapatalk


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeyxl;15463623*
> so has anyone had luck with finding screws
> 
> Send fromy P-509 using tapatalk


6-32. You can cut them to length to get the proper fitment out of them.









I had to buy 3" screws and snap off .75" in order to run two 25mm fan bodies on the Intake side for fan and shroud. Some HW places will do it for you on request.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t;15463444*
> You will get better cpu temps with the rad fans as intakes. In my case when I tried my H50 as p/p intake my cpu load temps dropped 4-5C but because my video card doesn't exhaust its heat out of the case my video card's load temps climbed 5-7C due to the excess heat the rad was forcing into the case using it as an intake. With my current OC my cpu temps are well below the danger zone so I really had no reason to leave it as an intake and make my video card run hotter. Just a heads up if you do try the rad fans as intakes. Use a filter.
> 
> This is what my H50 looked like after just a few days as intakes with no filter. My home is clean and pet free and my computer is up off the floor and it still sucked up everything.


There is definitely something wrong with that picture. I don't doubt a word you've said, but something is wrong here. I could leave my system all year and still not get that much dust in it.

In fact, the PC in our office at work (which is dusty as heck) doesn't get that dirty in a year.

Maybe you should have someone come in and check the air in your home? Better safe than sorry...


----------



## eySON

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*




















wow...


----------



## luchog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


This is what my H50 looked like after just a few days as intakes with no filter. My home is clean and pet free and my computer is up off the floor and it still sucked up everything.











Wow, that's an impressive load of dust. Should be posted in this thread: http://www.overclock.net/other-cooli...post-your.html


----------



## GREG MISO

is that ice or are u in the sand dunes.


----------



## MyNameIsWill

Either your house is dirty or you haven't cleaned your rad in years lol


----------



## joeyxl

5\32 at home depot for example?

Send fromy P-509 using tapatalk


----------



## DJ4g63t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;15469554*
> There is definitely something wrong with that picture. I don't doubt a word you've said, but something is wrong here. I could leave my system all year and still not get that much dust in it.
> 
> In fact, the PC in our office at work (which is dusty as heck) doesn't get that dirty in a year.
> 
> Maybe you should have someone come in and check the air in your home? Better safe than sorry...


Yeah I don't know what the deal was with that. It didn't look or feel like your typical dust that builds up on your filter. It felt almost like fluffy cotton. My 2 front intake fans can go months without needing the filters cleaned and never ever looked like that rad did. My desk has a glass top too and it doesn't get dusty at all. Even though my case isn't sitting on the floor my computer room does have wall to wall carpeting though.


----------



## joeyxl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


6-32. You can cut them to length to get the proper fitment out of them.









I had to buy 3" screws and snap off .75" in order to run two 25mm fan bodies on the Intake side for fan and shroud. Some HW places will do it for you on request.









~Ceadder










hey, sorry for repost but i didn't quote you....

i need 1 screw for the bracket, not the fan

Send fromy P-509 using tapatalk


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJ4g63t*


Yeah I don't know what the deal was with that. It didn't look or feel like your typical dust that builds up on your filter. It felt almost like fluffy cotton. My 2 front intake fans can go months without needing the filters cleaned and never ever looked like that rad did. My desk has a glass top too and it doesn't get dusty at all. Even though my case isn't sitting on the floor my computer room does have wall to wall carpeting though.


That's spooky scary. Maybe your PC ate some little kid or something.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joeyxl*


hey, sorry for repost but i didn't quote you....

i need 1 screw for the bracket, not the fan

Send fromy P-509 using tapatalk


Then I would suggest getting a backplate that has screws and caps. I think Xigmatech or Swiftech makes one. I tried to find it on Newegg cause they've been known to carry it, but for some reason I couldn't find it.









~Ceadder


----------



## joeyxl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Then I would suggest getting a backplate that has screws and caps. I think Xigmatech or Swiftech makes one. I tried to find it on Newegg cause they've been known to carry it, but for some reason I couldn't find it.









~Ceadder










yeah i did see that, i just was not sure it fits on the retention bracket for the pump/block. if out does ill go searching on the internets. so if some one can confirm, ill go ahead and buy









Send fromy P-509 using tapatalk


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joeyxl*


yeah i did see that, i just was not sure it fits on the retention bracket for the pump/block. if out does ill go searching on the internets. so if some one can confirm, ill go ahead and buy









Send fromy P-509 using tapatalk


Yes it will fit. But I think you don't use the plastic inserts on the metal ring because the nuts are large enough to secure it properly. Someone in this thread uses it to secure their H series cooler. But the last time I saw it was many many many moons ago.









~Ceadder


----------



## cavallino

Put my H70 on another computer and got an H100 for my sig rig. Temps are better with stock fans than my H70 with super loud 3K rpm Kaze ultras in push pull.


----------



## cavallino

When just doing not heavy things (i.e. web browsing word processing...anything but encoding gaming compiling etc.) I can actually run the H100 near passively with super low fan speed and still keep temps under 39-40.


----------



## ltg2227

i'm fixing to get 2 Typhoons(ap-15) for my h70 but before i do, i was wondering if the Yate Loons would be better bang for buck? I've seen people using them here. The Typhoons are $16.00 and the Yate Loons are $7.00 from frozencpu. If so, which model(#) would be the best?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ltg2227*


i'm fixing to get 2 Typhoons(ap-15) for my h70 but before i do, i was wondering if the Yate Loons would be better bang for buck? I've seen people using them here. The Typhoons are $16.00 and the Yate Loons are $7.00 from frozencpu. If so, which model(#) would be the best?


$4 each from Performance-PCs.com when you opt to lose the cheap sleeving. I would suggest Medium Speed Silents in moderate climates and High Speed Silents in hotter climes and run them through a Fan Controller.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

I would recommend the high speed fans. You can always turn them down to reduce noise, but if you get low speed you can't always turn them up if you need better cooling.

Better to have something and not need it than to need it and not have it.


----------



## joeyxl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*


Yes it will fit. But I think you don't use the plastic inserts on the metal ring because the nuts are large enough to secure it properly. Someone in this thread uses it to secure their H series cooler. But the last time I saw it was many many many moons ago.









~Ceadder










so is this the one?

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product...82E16835233038

Send fromy P-509 using tapatalk


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah I think that'll work. But the one I was referring to had a nylon backing plate and the screws are hinged to it. They insert through the rings and have nylon and brass nuts that cinch everything down. But that one looks like it could do the job. Although you may need washers to go between the tops of the screws and the Hydro Series locking plate.









~Ceadder


----------



## joeyxl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15504563*
> Yeah I think that'll work. But the one I was referring to had a nylon backing plate and the screws are hinged to it. They insert through the rings and have nylon and brass nuts that cinch everything down. But that one looks like it could do the job. Although you may need washers to go between the tops of the screws and the Hydro Series locking plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


yes i searched for someone else using the back plate, and they used a slighty higher model. its gunna be 22 bucks with shipping, so when i'm done, ill post the new plate, and temps!

Send fromy P-509 using tapatalk


----------



## joeyxl

so ive removed my h50, and is out of commission until i get the new mounting kit. im quite sad, but it really wasn't doing its job at all.


----------



## Mergatroid

Should be pretty sweet when you get the new back plate though.


----------



## joeyxl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;15512098*
> Should be pretty sweet when you get the new back plate though.


yes, yes it will be

Sent from my P-509 using tapatalk


----------



## Krazee

MY H50. I added two blue fans to it


----------



## Reaper2794

Does the H100 240mm radiator reach the side panel window of the NZXT Phantom..? I don't like how it looks on the 200mm slots up top

If it does reach, is there a reason I shouldn't put it on the side window?


----------



## Ceadderman

Maintenance issues probably will come up if you did so. Also as far as I know they've not changed the tubing(could be wrong) so you probably wouldn't want it on the door.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## ohioviper

Count me in...


----------



## Reaper2794

Yeah ignore my post guys haha, Ive been extremely tired and my brain is trying to rationalize getting an H100 over the H60, thing is I don't wanna put H100 on the 200mm fan slots, it doesn't look good, and extremely thick with 4fans, I want my 2 x 200mm fans up there...

hmm /=


----------



## Flying Toaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794;15568314*
> Yeah ignore my post guys haha, Ive been extremely tired and my brain is trying to rationalize getting an H100 over the H60, thing is I don't wanna put H100 on the 200mm fan slots, it doesn't look good, and extremely thick with 4fans, I want my 2 x 200mm fans up there...
> 
> hmm /=


I think mine ended up looking ok







sorta looks as if it's hovering..


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794;15565470*
> Does the H100 240mm radiator reach the side panel window of the NZXT Phantom..? I don't like how it looks on the 200mm slots up top
> 
> If it does reach, is there a reason I shouldn't put it on the side window?


I've seen one mounted on a door/window. The hoses on the H100 are a little longer so it will likely reach. The thing you have to ask yourself is, are you willing to be flexing those cables every time you take your side panel off. Personally I prefer to just leave them once it's mounted.

I gave up a top 200mm fan so I could have the top mounted cooler. I think the cooler does way more for the cooling than the fans do by themselves. Can you even mount 120mm fans up top in that case? It looks like there's lots of room for an H80 at the back, and it's almost as good as an H100 (only 1 or 2c off). The H60 is great, but the H80 and H100 have the Corsair link functionality (if it ever comes out and if you're interested in it). Flying Toaster's solution looks pretty cool too.


----------



## Reaper2794

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;15576988*
> I've seen one mounted on a door/window. The hoses on the H100 are a little longer so it will likely reach. The thing you have to ask yourself is, are you willing to be flexing those cables every time you take your side panel off. Personally I prefer to just leave them once it's mounted.
> 
> I gave up a top 200mm fan so I could have the top mounted cooler. I think the cooler does way more for the cooling than the fans do by themselves. Can you even mount 120mm fans up top in that case? It looks like there's lots of room for an H80 at the back, and it's almost as good as an H100 (only 1 or 2c off). The H60 is great, but the H80 and H100 have the Corsair link functionality (if it ever comes out and if you're interested in it). Flying Toaster's solution looks pretty cool too.


I saw the pic, and not to knock on his build or anything, Im sure it runs great, but Im a perfectionist, I need everything to look good, I don't wanna put a 240mm radiator under 2 x 200 (actually 192 since there's no standard for 200mm fans) and have it look like that, in my opinion it's ugly, again, simply my opinion

The H80 has a double wide radiator if Im not mistaken, and it looks extremely ugly with the radiator and a fan sticking out the back, it's just so bulky, it'll cover up a good 3rd of my motherboard

Isn't the Corsair Link functionality just fan control? I could really care less if I could control the fan on those to lower it by a few degrees, I already have fan control on my Phantom for the rest of my fans, and even that's not really a huge deal anyway


----------



## Akusho

nvm


----------



## Ceadderman

Hai guys.

As many of you know, Corsair uses G751 on their coolers. When modding these coolers or even right out of the box the TIM needs to be replaced. Unfortunately in a lot of instances G751 is $4 a tube not including shipping for a .5g tube. So people typically buy something else.

Well we now have access to 3g tubes of G751. At this time it's roughly $10 per tube. Do the math though and you'll find that buying one 3g tube is cheaper than six .5g tubes and less waste into the landfill.

So I've started a Bulk buy thread in the hopes that we can get it out to the masses and help drive the demand for larger qty tubes from the vendors in the States. This stuff is gold and I'm here to put a G751 Rolex on everyone's CPU for a reasonable price.

group-buy-3g-tubes-shin-etsu.html

I hope everyone who uses TIM takes part.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mergatroid

The H60, H80 and H100 all use Dow Corning TIM, but the Shin-Etsu G751 used on the H50 and H70 is just as good.

Don't forget that, other than the curing time, AS5 is just as good too. Since curing time doesn't really bother me too much, I usually just use AS5 from my local computer supplies store.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid;15626920*
> The H60, H80 and H100 all use Dow Corning TIM, but the Shin-Etsu G751 used on the H50 and H70 is just as good.
> 
> Don't forget that, other than the curing time, AS5 is just as good too. Since curing time doesn't really bother me too much, I usually just use AS5 from my local computer supplies store.


Wow hadn't heard that they went away from G751. Probably due to cost. The stuff isn't cheap. So I can count on you to get at least one tube for experimental purposes Merg?









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman;15615463*
> Hai guys.
> 
> As many of you know, Corsair uses G751 on their coolers. When modding these coolers or even right out of the box the TIM needs to be replaced. Unfortunately in a lot of instances G751 is $4 a tube not including shipping for a .5g tube. So people typically buy something else.
> 
> Well we now have access to 3g tubes of G751. At this time it's roughly $10 per tube. Do the math though and you'll find that buying one 3g tube is cheaper than six .5g tubes and less waste into the landfill.
> 
> So I've started a Bulk buy thread in the hopes that we can get it out to the masses and help drive the demand for larger qty tubes from the vendors in the States. This stuff is gold and I'm here to put a G751 Rolex on everyone's CPU for a reasonable price.
> 
> group-buy-3g-tubes-shin-etsu.html
> 
> I hope everyone who uses TIM takes part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I've switched to IC Diamond myself. Got the 4.8g tube for only $18 from SVC. The 1.5g tube is only $7. Free shipping on most TIM's at SVC.

They also carry G751, and its only $4 for a 1g tube. Not too bad for a small tube (free shipping).


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;15629499*
> I've switched to IC Diamond myself. Got the 4.8g tube for only $18 from SVC. The 1.5g tube is only $7. Free shipping on most TIM's at SVC.
> 
> They also carry G751, and its only $4 for a 1g tube. Not too bad for a small tube (free shipping).


3g > 1g...

Also the aim is to get more people on board to drop the price even further PIL.









I really can't go into specifics because I don't need people flippin out about having to pay more than the posted price but the more people I get on board and the more tubes sold we can get a really SICK steal of a price per 3g tube.









Also G751 > IC Diamond.









My optimal goal would be 1001 tubes. I realize that's probably not going to happen but I've got myself down for 2 tubes. Let's say we can get 40% or more off per tube. $6 per 3g tube of the best stuff on the market is a steal.

Check out the thread, this is the Hydro series thread and while we always need TIM, I've said too much already here. Just trying to let people know what's going on and where to go if they want a good deal on an almost impossible to get qty purchase.









Oh and SVC never has it in stock. I've tried getting it through them because I was tired of .5g tubes coming out my ears and all I get is the run around via email and on the phone. They told me they had to find another supplier, they found a supplier, they need to talk to the purchase manager, he has to talk to the supplier... SVC is a pipe dream on any 1g tube of G751 at this point.









~Ceadder:drink:


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Wow hadn't heard that they went away from G751. Probably due to cost. The stuff isn't cheap. So I can count on you to get at least one tube for experimental purposes Merg?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder:drink:


I live in Canada. I can't see myself dealing with customs, duty and having to go to the airport to pick it up, just for a little TIM. As I said, I'm happy with the AS5.

Love the changes to the site BTW, quickly done too. Good Job OCN!


----------



## Krazee

So will I finally get added?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krazee*
> 
> So will I finally get added?


You have to add yourself on the OP. Go to the bottom of the spreadsheet and click the link there.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

I re-subbed all the threads I was interested in yesterday. I got no notification of new posts and my subs are all gone. Anyone else?


----------



## Ceadderman

Actually even though I'm not liking this version of OCN you can click "Subscroptions" up in the right hand corner. It'll list all the threads you subscribed to. In the summary there should be a link that takes you to your last post in that thread. That way you can catch up with the thread and then once that's done everything should be settled. You will have to do this for every thread you wish to remain a part of course.









~Ceadder


----------



## croSSeduP

How do you get an H50 that has mounting holes for a 1156, 775, and a 1366 to fit an 1155 proc/mobo?


----------



## croSSeduP

Never mind; I figured it out. Had to clearance the bracket about 1mm to clear one of the mobo heatsink bracket screws.


----------



## Cyrious

so ill be getting an h50 in a trade, and i have a few questions.

First off, is there anywhere on the net where i can compare it against the freezer 7 pro rev2? I wanna see how much of a boost ill get out of it.\

Second, im not going to be using the stock fan or any of the fans on the front page, ill be using a pair of Delta WFB1212M fans in a push pull config (72cfm, 34dBa, 2100 rpm, salvage and thus only has the positive and ground power lines) with a third of the same on the slot next to where its going, all exhaust. Considering i have 5 fairly slow fans pulling air in (combined CFM is not likely to be over 100-130), think this would be a good setup? and should i go through the effort of removing the grating on my case for unimpeded airflow?

and thirdly, would this thing be able to handle an e5300 pushing 4.2ghz? 4ghz on a 4 heatpipe tower cooler running IBT saw max sustained temps approaching 100C (and i ran it for HOURS at that temp







) and i really dont want to repeat that again.

Oh yeah, i look forward to doing a 5ghz slushbucket of my Pentium D. I FULLY intend on killing it because 1.63v on air JUST DIDNT QUITE CUT IT







(74C and 4.76ghz in bios before i shut it down)


----------



## jprovido

no place for h60 users? cries







(


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jprovido*
> 
> no place for h60 users? cries
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (




Click Google Spreadsheet and add yoself.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyrious*
> 
> so ill be getting an h50 in a trade, and i have a few questions.
> First off, is there anywhere on the net where i can compare it against the freezer 7 pro rev2? I wanna see how much of a boost ill get out of it.\
> Second, im not going to be using the stock fan or any of the fans on the front page, ill be using a pair of Delta WFB1212M fans in a push pull config (72cfm, 34dBa, 2100 rpm, salvage and thus only has the positive and ground power lines) with a third of the same on the slot next to where its going, all exhaust. Considering i have 5 fairly slow fans pulling air in (combined CFM is not likely to be over 100-130), think this would be a good setup? and should i go through the effort of removing the grating on my case for unimpeded airflow?
> 
> and thirdly, would this thing be able to handle an e5300 pushing 4.2ghz? 4ghz on a 4 heatpipe tower cooler running IBT saw max sustained temps approaching 100C (and i ran it for HOURS at that temp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and i really dont want to repeat that again.


1)I would expect a 15°C-20°C drop since a stock H50 is just slightly better than the stock Mugen2 (what I had before my H50). Tom's used a 4C/8T CPU, so that would output quite a bit more heat than yours would.

Refer to this:


2) You shouldn't need to do any modding for your case. Intake will always grant you the best CPU temps, though make sure there is an immediate exit for that hot air, or else your overall temps will suffer.

3)I don't have any experience or knowledge of the E5300, but the H50 should be able to handle much higher clocks at lower voltages due to the lower temps.


----------



## Devious ST

has anyone upgraded their fans on a H50?? if so which ones and pics??


----------



## PathOfTheRighteousMan

New personal best OC on the H100 http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2097924

Didn't check temps as it bsods after 30 seconds or so. Anyway, at 5.2Ghz I'm getting 58'C tops. 1.52v. Antec Formula 7 TIM.

With the stock TIM I was over 60'C









H100 is so worth it







Oh and above is with 2 fans.


----------



## croSSeduP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devious ST*
> 
> has anyone upgraded their fans on a H50?? if so which ones and pics??


I'm doing a push/pull 120mm fan set up. Not sure if it makes any difference. I'll post pics later when I get home.


----------



## .theMetal

here ya go. Two yate loon high speed fans. super cheap but unless you like a jet engine on your desk you better have a fan controller. or you could just get the medium speeds. very big improvement over one stock fan.


----------



## (sic)

Been lurking for awhile now...

Here's my modest rig...

Excuse the ****ty photos. I am by no means a photographer.





Will be moving everything to a 800D, Q1 2012.

Additions:
-GTX 570
-Corsair AX1200 (MDPC-X sleeving of coruse)
-Intel 510 120Gb
-Custom WC loop (possibly two)


----------



## Devious ST

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *croSSeduP*
> 
> I'm doing a push/pull 120mm fan set up. Not sure if it makes any difference. I'll post pics later when I get home.


i got a good 4 - 6 'c difference to just having the single push fan on
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> here ya go. Two yate loon high speed fans. super cheap but unless you like a jet engine on your desk you better have a fan controller. or you could just get the medium speeds. very big improvement over one stock fan.


kool will look them up... is it better to have one fan on the outside of the case then the rad and pull fan on the inside???


----------



## Devious ST

this is how mine is set up at the mo but with a pull fan on the inside at the mo to see if its any better.. please let me know if its set up right or any feedback on how to get better cooling guys


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devious ST*
> 
> i got a good 4 - 6 'c difference to just having the single push fan on
> kool will look them up... is it better to have one fan on the outside of the case then the rad and pull fan on the inside???


nope its only a space thing it makes no difference.

only thing you can improve if you had a push/pull set up is put a shroud somewhere in there so the air has full contact with the radiator.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devious ST*
> 
> this is how mine is set up at the mo but with a pull fan on the inside at the mo to see if its any better.. please let me know if its set up right or any feedback on how to get better cooling guys


Try flipping your Radiator 180 degrees. Won't do anything performance-wise but should extend the life of your H50. Air travels up and there is air inside it. Also Push would be better than pull if you plan to only run one fan on it. I would suggest Yate Loon High Speed Silents with a fan controller to undervolt them until you need them. i.e. gaming, folding etc.









~Ceadder


----------



## .theMetal

No advantage to having it out of the case, mine is just pretty small so it clears out a bit more room


----------



## liquidmetal17

I really like the Akasa Viper fans for the radiator. They don't have the best airflow out of all of the 120's on the market, but they do have some of the best static pressure and that's just as important when talking about sending air through a radiator as opposed to simply moving relatively open air through a case. They're pretty quiet even on full blast and with a fan controller keeping them at ~1000 rpms they're nearly silent.


----------



## .theMetal

^ ^ ^
agreed, static pressure is why the yate loons work so well. but yate loons probably aren't nearly quiet as those. maybe the mediums


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*


----------



## (sic)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*


I'll take that as a compliment?









It's definitely nothing special, but it's gets me 45-75 fps in BF3 (max settings), so I'm happy!

The H70 is quite amazing I must say. Keeps my 2500K really cool (idle 24-30C, load 41-49C, depending on ambient temps ofcourse).


----------



## Kokin

My H50 keeps my 4ghz quad core at around 40-43C during BF3.


----------



## clubfoot

That's about right for my Intel QUAD as well in Dirt3.


----------



## Infinitegrim

Just wanted to check back in. This week I got a 2500k.

Old stats.....E7200 @ 4.0Ghz loads @ 63C

New Stats...2500K @ 4.2Ghz loads @ 47C


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *(sic)*
> 
> I'll take that as a compliment?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's definitely nothing special, but it's gets me 45-75 fps in BF3 (max settings), so I'm happy!
> The H70 is quite amazing I must say. Keeps my 2500K really cool (idle 24-30C, load 41-49C, depending on ambient temps ofcourse).


Man, I actually feel a little guilty about my old H70. I had put it up on a local classifies ads website for $40. I had it working great in my system and only gave it up because I wanted the H100. Some guy phones me, and I met him at a local coffee shop. I had the unit with me, complete box and packing but only one fan (I told him he would have to pick one up but he said he had a couple).

He was using a V8. I told him I wasn't sure he would get much of a temp drop if any from the H70, but that I liked it because of how much room it cleared out in my case. He agreed with that and bought the H70 for the $40 (It's funny, the H70 Core is going for $100 CDN at Tigerdirect.ca...I don't think it's worth that myself) Anyway, the guy called me two days later and claimed that his CPU was hot and the H70 didn't work. I asked him what his temps were and he didn't know. He didn't even have any temp software installed. He was just going by how his finger felt. He said when he touched his V8 is was cool but when he touched something on the H70 it was hot.

Get this, he wanted his money back. I felt bad for him, but I told him I had publicly posted data and pictures showing that cooler worked perfectly. I also told him I wouldn't trust what his finger said. Finally, I had to tell him that I'm not Best Buy and I don't have a money back policy, and once he purchases something second hand it belongs to him. I had given him my receipt through an email, and the unit still has about 14 months of warranty. I told him he could send it to Corsair, but that in my opinion if they sent him another one he would get exactly the same results because there was nothing wrong with the one he bought from me.

This is the first time I ever sold my old equipment to a stranger, and I think it will be the last. The guy kept calling me over the next couple of days and finally I had to shut my cell off for a day. I do feel bad for him, but I don't feel responsible in any way. That H70 was awesome.


----------



## Ceadderman

I smell a rat Merg ole buddy. It's obvious to me at least that he didn't install it properly or he's found something else he wants instead and decided to try to wring the money out of you with a sob story. It's obvious to me at least that he's also not very tech savvy. What c0mputt3r g33k doesn't have some type of temperature tracking software installed on their pride and joy? If he insists on calling you though you might take the time to find out exactly how it was installed. If he had another couple of fans he might have put it together with the intakes facing toward/opposite each other. I'm no n00b where my hardware is concerned and I've done it by accident so I can imagine this guy doing something like that. Of course it's hot to the touch, lack of airflow will do that.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

Yeah, I tried to help him out on the first few phone calls. I tried to get him to install software, made sure his fans were pointing the same way, even tried to get him to join ocn and get the community to help him. I explained about the CPU header and case fan headers, disabling any auto control on the fan headers, and using power direct from the PSU. I even gave him a tube of as5 with enough in it for one or two installs.

Really, it's only $40, I could have refunded him, but the H70 had been for sale for a couple of months and I feel no one including myself should have an expectation of a getting their money back when purchasing second hand equipment. There's also the things you pointed out regarding him possibly trying to scam the money back. If it was someone I know I would have been happy to visit and get it working for him, but I'm a little wary about doing things like that for people I don't know. I also don't like inviting strangers into my home if I only know them from a classified ad. I know the cooler was 100% so I have to think he's not installing it correctly, not testing it correctly or had too high an expectation compared to his V8.

Oh well, live and learn I guess. I was going to keep the H70 as a spare but decided to sell it to offset the cost of the H100 somewhat. Maybe next time I'll just hang on to whatever it is as a spare.


----------



## Ceadderman

Or next time just sell it here. You have the Rep so it's not like you can't do that. Although you have to keep in mind some people don't have a lot of patience.









~Ceadder


----------



## Devious ST

You got to love Corsair Customer Support!!! I emailed Late Monday night about one of the screws holding the cooler to the back plate beening ever so slightly bent and they emailed me back with a code to put in the online store.. Yesterday (wednesday) i had a packet arrive from them with a whole brand new set of backplates, screws and holding clips









Thank You Corsair!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devious ST*
> 
> You got to love Corsair Customer Support!!! I emailed Late Monday night about one of the screws holding the cooler to the back plate beening ever so slightly bent and they emailed me back with a code to put in the online store.. Yesterday (wednesday) i had a packet arrive from them with a whole brand new set of backplates, screws and holding clips
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank You Corsair!




Most excellent!









~Ceadder


----------



## Tohru Rokuno

I bought a used H70 here on OCN, and I'm really liking it so far!

I upgraded from the stock Intel cooler to this using, and saw my temps at full load drop over 20C - very nice!
I used to run at roughly 70C with [email protected] running, now I'm at 46-49C.

I have a couple questions - The Corsair fan cable for the push fan wasn't long enough to reach the Y and still plug into the CPU fan spot on the board, so I swapped it out with an Antec Tri-Cool.
I did get just one of the resistor cables with it, though. With the cable between the Y and the motherboard, I could run both Corsair fans instead of having a mis-matched pair.
Can one Corsair resistor cable handle two Corsair fans? Would it be better to get another Tri-Cool, or are mismatched fans not a huge problem?

Here's what it looks like installed - since I had the room I went with it as a front-mount intake.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tohru Rokuno*
> 
> I bought a used H70 here on OCN, and I'm really liking it so far!
> 
> I upgraded from the stock Intel cooler to this using, and saw my temps at full load drop over 20C - very nice!
> I used to run at roughly 70C with [email protected] running, now I'm at 46-49C.
> 
> I have a couple questions - The Corsair fan cable for the push fan wasn't long enough to reach the Y and still plug into the CPU fan spot on the board, so I swapped it out with an Antec Tri-Cool.
> I did get just one of the resistor cables with it, though. With the cable between the Y and the motherboard, I could run both Corsair fans instead of having a mis-matched pair.
> Can one Corsair resistor cable handle two Corsair fans? Would it be better to get another Tri-Cool, or are mismatched fans not a huge problem?
> 
> Here's what it looks like installed - since I had the room I went with it as a front-mount intake.


I've been running an H50 with mismatched fans for months now and have never noticed an issue temps are great and since that's the main point I'm not worried. I'm running a Noctura on one side and an Antec Tricool like you on the other side. So I'd say if you don't mind how it looks and your temps are good for ya then don't mess with it. As for the resistor cable, the more load you put on a resistor the hotter it will get! I'm not sure if the cables were only meant for one fan but I imagine that they were and if I were you I wouldn't risk it, however if someone else knows it will handle it then go for it but I would advise caution.

Good Luck to you and I hope this helps:thumb:


----------



## Hatchet

I just added myself!
Here's my setup!


----------



## mistax

This is was before IC diamond 7 and cleaning. Im getting like high 80's now =( im so confused.


----------



## Jras

So i've just ordered the h100 and am thinking about plugging in 2 case face into the controller on the pump, the case fans are regular cooler master r4s with 3 pin plugs. Will they even work or are there any issues I should know about before hand?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> 
> 
> This is was before IC diamond 7 and cleaning. Im getting like high 80's now =( im so confused.


Time for a re-seat I think. Either that or ICD 7 isn't what it's cracked up to be.









~Ceadder


----------



## mistax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Time for a re-seat I think. Either that or ICD 7 isn't what it's cracked up to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


i did the reseat and everything after i cleaned it =P. like if im running stock 3.2 it 28-29c idle and 55 full load. but when i crank it to 4.0-4.2 it start going insane on the heat when running ibt


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tohru Rokuno*
> 
> I bought a used H70 here on OCN, and I'm really liking it so far!
> 
> I upgraded from the stock Intel cooler to this using, and saw my temps at full load drop over 20C - very nice!
> I used to run at roughly 70C with [email protected] running, now I'm at 46-49C.
> 
> I have a couple questions - The Corsair fan cable for the push fan wasn't long enough to reach the Y and still plug into the CPU fan spot on the board, so I swapped it out with an Antec Tri-Cool.
> I did get just one of the resistor cables with it, though. With the cable between the Y and the motherboard, I could run both Corsair fans instead of having a mis-matched pair.
> Can one Corsair resistor cable handle two Corsair fans? Would it be better to get another Tri-Cool, or are mismatched fans not a huge problem?
> 
> Here's what it looks like installed - since I had the room I went with it as a front-mount intake.


Corsair George recommends that, if you have to use mismatched fans (as I also am on my H100) then it's best to use the fan with better static pressure as the push fan. Although it's nice to have similar air flow, the push fan will not get full airflow anyway because it has to push through the rad. IMHO, as long as the fans are in the same ballpark they should be fine.

I'm using two stock Corsair fans as the push fans and two Scythe 2000 RPM 110 CFM fans as the pull fans and so far it's working great.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jras*
> 
> So i've just ordered the h100 and am thinking about plugging in 2 case face into the controller on the pump, the case fans are regular cooler master r4s with 3 pin plugs. Will they even work or are there any issues I should know about before hand?


You should have no problem running four fans off of the H100 block. I ran it with four fans for a month or two without issue. I'm using a fan controller for them now for better control without having to open the case. The H100 block uses voltage regulation even if you plug in four pin PWM fans, so it should be able to control any fan.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Time for a re-seat I think. Either that or ICD 7 isn't what it's cracked up to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i did the reseat and everything after i cleaned it =P. like if im running stock 3.2 it 28-29c idle and 55 full load. but when i crank it to 4.0-4.2 it start going insane on the heat when running ibt
Click to expand...

What fans are you running? It might be that your static pressure isn't up to par.









~Ceadder


----------



## mistax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> What fans are you running? It might be that your static pressure isn't up to par.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


stock ones. =( still waiting for my GT2150 from group buy.


----------



## mistax

haha might of been a bios setting that was controlling the fans. After loading a default bios to retune my oc. Im getting 65-68C on full load @ 4.28


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Time for a re-seat I think. Either that or ICD 7 isn't what it's cracked up to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i did the reseat and everything after i cleaned it =P. like if im running stock 3.2 it 28-29c idle and 55 full load. but when i crank it to 4.0-4.2 it start going insane on the heat when running ibt
Click to expand...

It is also possible that you have a pump that is getting weak / beginning to die, but I would only start to draw this conclusion after you have eliminated all other possibilities.

Edit Just saw you post about the fan speeds, yeah if the fans weren't turning fast enough that would definitely be a problem. Glad to see you figured it out


----------



## Ceadderman

Haha I didn't even consider fan speed. Generally people have that stuff sorted out before they take on big overclocks.









~Ceadder


----------



## mistax

yah =P might of changed it some time ago to the silent setting


----------



## Infinitegrim

Hmm, am I the only one who doesnt see a single degree of difference with fan speed? With my H70 as long as my fans are on the temperatures are good. Doesnt matter if they are on 40% or 100%


----------



## Mergatroid

I got quite a range of temps depending on if my H70 fans were running slow or fast. Even the resistor in the cable makes a few degrees difference under load. You can see that in a lot of the reviews available on the 'net where they will do two sets of temps, one with the resistor cable and one without.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinitegrim*
> 
> Hmm, am I the only one who doesnt see a single degree of difference with fan speed? With my H70 as long as my fans are on the temperatures are good. Doesnt matter if they are on 40% or 100%


Heck with my H50 at idle if I take the fans off 100% I see a temp change not much just a degree or two but it's still a change.


----------



## Infinitegrim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Heck with my H50 at idle if I take the fans off 100% I see a temp change not much just a degree or two but it's still a change.


The only time I see a difference is when i turn my fans off. Then it will start to heat up, even on idle. I'm not using expensive fans at all. I'm using THESE in push/pull. I keep them on @ 40% all the time and if I bump them up to 100% they get LOUD and do not cool the cpu down a single degree.

Unlike the Cooler Master fans I just got, their specs are actually accurate. I got Cooler Master fans that say 70 CFM too, but these Logisys fans easily push twice as much air as them. So maybe because they push a ton of air is the reason I dont see a difference.


----------



## Kokin

^
You don't see such a big difference because you're running a dual core processor. Fortunately for me, I have gotten to test my processor as a dual core and an unlocked quad core, so I've had first hand experience with my dual core having a Prime95 load of less than 30°C at 4ghz vs my quad having around 45°C at 4ghz both set at 1.46v.

It also allowed me to get to 4.5ghz as a dual core vs a 4.3ghz as a quad (non-stable, but Windows boot-able OCs).

Fan speeds don't make a big difference if your heat output is low. You are most likely limited by the pump and waterblock performance of your H70.


----------



## Infinitegrim

I'm running an i5 2500k @ 4.2Ghz. I made a new Rig, but its not showing up in my sig


----------



## koulaid

o yea!!!


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

Here are a few pics I snapped.....


----------



## Mergatroid

So a few people getting such low differences in temps when they alter their fan speed. It would depend somewhat on the fans I guess. I was using Scythe Slipstream 2000 RPM 110 cfm fans at the time. I had noted a difference between high speed and low speed using the resistor cable. When I started using a PWM splitter I let the system auto control the fans from that point on so I never noticed much afterwords.


----------



## nerdybeat

I just want to confirm without reading back about 50 pages-

The 1156 bracket that came with the H70 will work with the 1155 socket CPUs?? I have a new purchase upcoming....

Thanks!!!


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nerdybeat*
> 
> I just want to confirm without reading back about 50 pages-
> 
> The 1156 bracket that came with the H70 will work with the 1155 socket CPUs?? I have a new purchase upcoming....
> 
> Thanks!!!


To the best of my knowledge all of the Hydro series coolers ship with mounting hardware for all current sockets! As for if you can use the mounting hardware from the 1156 on the 1155 the answer is yes here is a link:

http://hw-lab.com/lga-1155-and-lga-1156-share-the-same-screw-hole-design.html

I hope this is what you were looking for and Good luck with your build


----------



## Infinitegrim

Yep, I used the instructions for 1156 to mount it to my 2500k


----------



## nerdybeat

Thanks guys! +rep


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nerdybeat*
> 
> Thanks guys! +rep


Hey no worries, glad I could help


----------



## Jayce1971

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I got quite a range of temps depending on if my H70 fans were running slow or fast. Even the resistor in the cable makes a few degrees difference under load. You can see that in a lot of the reviews available on the 'net where they will do two sets of temps, one with the resistor cable and one without.


Good point, Mergatroid. I use the supplied H70 splitter to run the Corsair fans as case front intake on one fan channel, and the Uk3k's on the H70 rad each have their own channel. That way, you get full controller voltage, and if a channel (resistor) would burn out for some reason, you have another fan running as backup. I seem to keep very low temps as long as I have around >1800rpm, fanspeed through the rad. Under full load right now, 4 cores crunchin wu's at 42c, ambient 68f. Can't complain at all.


----------



## jnabq

Bitfenix Spectre Pro fans out soon. Any opinions on these yet. Early reviews look pretty good. Don't know if I'd be inclined to replace my GT's though, but might use 'em to replace a case fan.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jnabq*
> 
> Bitfenix Spectre Pro fans out soon. Any opinions on these yet. Early reviews look pretty good. Don't know if I'd be inclined to replace my GT's though, but might use 'em to replace a case fan.


Just looked at their website at the specs for the fans and they are awesome looking but the 120mm versions static pressure is still less than the AP-15. So they would probably make great case fans and a decent rad fan but for rad fans the gentle typhoon AP-15's look to still be the king.


----------



## rudderz666

Hi guys just wondered if any 1 could help me iv got the H70 and the cpu Q9650 overclocked but was wondering how much volts i could give my cpu befor the proformence of the coooler lowers...

I already at 4.00ghz from 3.00ghz at 1.5 volts in bios my cpu sees very voltage hungry too..
Nothing seems to of changed temp wise so far iv gt gentle typhoons on the rad

cheers


----------



## clubfoot

I run my [email protected] 1.41v without issue. I would think 1.5v is on the high side,...you should only use as much voltage as required for the o/c.


----------



## rudderz666

Hmmm thouz that but for sum reason my cpu wont realy work on low votls for some reason thinking my mobo mite be a issue coz iv used the same cpu on diff mobos and used much less


----------



## Mergatroid

I think a 1GHz overclock is awesome. From what I've heard hanging around here any voltage over 1.4V is considered getting high. I don't know how much the extra .1V will reduce the lifespan of your CPU. Maybe you should go into the overclock thread (or the 1GHz overclock club) and ask around to see if you should go any higher than you are now.

A 25% overclock is great. What are your load temps now?


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rudderz666*
> 
> Hmmm thouz that but for sum reason my cpu wont realy work on low votls for some reason thinking my mobo mite be a issue coz iv used the same cpu on diff mobos and used much less


If you're using the same components and only the motherboard was changed,...then yes it's the motherboard. What are you using to read the cpu voltage? On Prime95 I don't hit over 74 degrees.


----------



## rudderz666

Using a few diff temp monitor programs and hardware i dont go over 68 - 72 on prime after a while thinking off changing mobo but wanna stick with quad core etc so prob gonna get diff 1

Iv got q9650 n e good mobos out there any 1 recomend thx for ya time guys XD


----------



## clubfoot

I'm kinda biased but the ASUS Rampage Extreme (REX) is one of the best 775 socket o/c motherboards, if you can find one. It's one Achilles heal is memory compatibility. Find the right ram and it is untouchable


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubfoot*
> 
> I'm kinda biased but the ASUS Rampage Extreme (REX) is one of the best 775 socket o/c motherboards, if you can find one. It's one Achilles heal is memory compatibility. Find the right ram and it is untouchable


That Achilles heel isn't much of an Achilles heel. Considering you should be able to get it to POST with any DDR3 RAM not on QVL by pressing what would be the equivalent of the "RAMOkay" or "GoButton". High end RoG boards have that going for them over any other board to my knowledge.









~Ceadder


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *clubfoot*
> 
> I'm kinda biased but the ASUS Rampage Extreme (REX) is one of the best 775 socket o/c motherboards, if you can find one. It's one Achilles heal is memory compatibility. Find the right ram and it is untouchable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That Achilles heel isn't much of an Achilles heel. Considering you should be able to get it to POST with any DDR3 RAM not on QVL by pressing what would be the equivalent of the "RAMOkay" or "GoButton". High end RoG boards have that going for them over any other board to my knowledge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

I don't remember any of the socket 775 boards having the MemOk of Go buttons? I could be wrong but I just don't really remember seeing the MemOk button really start showing up on the Asus boards until the X58 socket 1366 boards started coming out.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *clubfoot*
> 
> I'm kinda biased but the ASUS Rampage Extreme (REX) is one of the best 775 socket o/c motherboards, if you can find one. It's one Achilles heal is memory compatibility. Find the right ram and it is untouchable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That Achilles heel isn't much of an Achilles heel. Considering you should be able to get it to POST with any DDR3 RAM not on QVL by pressing what would be the equivalent of the "RAMOkay" or "GoButton". High end RoG boards have that going for them over any other board to my knowledge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I don't remember any of the socket 775 boards having the MemOk of Go buttons? I could be wrong but I just don't really remember seeing the MemOk button really start showing up on the Asus boards until the X58 socket 1366 boards started coming out.
Click to expand...

They've been out since the M4A89GTD Pro/USB3. Granted it's an AMD board, but ASUS is generally pretty forgiving for RAM not listed in the QVL. I'm pretty sure that Rampage III would have this feature. On the Extreme IV it's called "GoSwitch". On Rampage three it's "GoButton". On Rampage III BE it's called "GoSwitch" and it's just above the 24pin socket and just under the OC switches on the edge of the Board.









It allows the Board to POST at minimum spec of the RAM as well as RAM not on QVL to POST.









One of the many reasons I will look for an ASUS board over all others first. I don't have any real dislikes of boards other than ASUS, I just like their features more.









~Ceadder


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *clubfoot*
> 
> I'm kinda biased but the ASUS Rampage Extreme (REX) is one of the best 775 socket o/c motherboards, if you can find one. It's one Achilles heal is memory compatibility. Find the right ram and it is untouchable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That Achilles heel isn't much of an Achilles heel. Considering you should be able to get it to POST with any DDR3 RAM not on QVL by pressing what would be the equivalent of the "RAMOkay" or "GoButton". High end RoG boards have that going for them over any other board to my knowledge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I don't remember any of the socket 775 boards having the MemOk of Go buttons? I could be wrong but I just don't really remember seeing the MemOk button really start showing up on the Asus boards until the X58 socket 1366 boards started coming out.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> They've been out since the M4A89GTD Pro/USB3. Granted it's an AMD board, but ASUS is generally pretty forgiving for RAM not listed in the QVL. I'm pretty sure that Rampage III would have this feature. On the Extreme IV it's called "GoSwitch". On Rampage three it's "GoButton". On Rampage III BE it's called "GoSwitch" and it's just above the 24pin socket and just under the OC switches on the edge of the Board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It allows the Board to POST at minimum spec of the RAM as well as RAM not on QVL to POST.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the many reasons I will look for an ASUS board over all others first. I don't have any real dislikes of boards other than ASUS, I just like their features more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

I didn't say I could be wrong, I just don't remember seeing them but as I've stuck with an AM2+ board and only kinda looked at boards over the last several years that probably has something to do with it. I do agree that every Asus board I've every owned was very forgiving on the memory that I used. Both Asus boards I've used I didn't pick a memory that was on the QVL, and the boards detected the mem at the correct settings right out of the Box. It's only been the past like year and a half that I've been really looking at parts for a build again so that's probably why I started to noticed the MemOk buttons when I did.


----------



## Ceadderman

All good bruh. Hope I didn't come across like I was "proofing", I'm OCD and tend to focus on as much description as I can.









~Ceadder


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> All good bruh. Hope I didn't come across like I was "proofing", I'm OCD and tend to focus on as much description as I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Na No worries, it's all good


----------



## clubfoot

The REX does not have a ram OK button







But, it will boot with just about any decent DDR3 ram,...it's only when using 4 sticks, high fsb (500) and 1:1 mem ratios it gets finicky and you have to play with skews and ram slot voltages to synchronize everything.Trust me I know


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubfoot*
> 
> The REX does not have a ram OK button
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, it will boot with just about any decent DDR3 ram,...it's only when using 4 sticks, high fsb (500) and 1:1 mem ratios it gets finicky and you have to play with skews and ram slot voltages to synchronize everything.Trust me I know


Yes it does. It's the "GoSwitch". They're all the same. Promise. It's the little red button above the 24pin socket. Under the PCI-e selector switch box.









~Ceadder


----------



## WeirdHarold

Ok just to try and end this it has it, it doesn't have it that's kind of starting here:

Since if I read things correctly we are talking about the Rampage Extreme X48 chipset socket 775 motherboard it doesn't have any form of Go button or MemOk button on it. If it does then Asus never mentioned it in the description and that would seem odd as that would have been one more selling point for the board. Here is a link to the Asus webpage for that board:
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_775/Rampage_Extreme/#overview


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Ok just to try and end this it has it, it doesn't have it that's kind of starting here:
> 
> Since if I read things correctly we are talking about the Rampage Extreme X48 chipset socket 775 motherboard it doesn't have any form of Go button or MemOk button on it. If it does then Asus never mentioned it in the description and that would seem odd as that would have been one more selling point for the board. Here is a link to the Asus webpage for that board:
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_775/Rampage_Extreme/#overview


Nope, the 1st Generation Rampage Extreme does not have it. I know there is a way to get the board to see the RAM but I think you have to go into the BIOS set the RAM to minimum spec for the CPU and then POST. It's been awhile since I've had my hands on one of the earlier Gen boards and being a bit on the Triptofan highway, brain isn't sourcing info.









The 3rd Gen RoG boards and newer have these buttons though.









~Ceadder


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Ok just to try and end this it has it, it doesn't have it that's kind of starting here:
> 
> Since if I read things correctly we are talking about the Rampage Extreme X48 chipset socket 775 motherboard it doesn't have any form of Go button or MemOk button on it. If it does then Asus never mentioned it in the description and that would seem odd as that would have been one more selling point for the board. Here is a link to the Asus webpage for that board:
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_775/Rampage_Extreme/#overview
> 
> 
> 
> Nope, the 1st Generation Rampage Extreme does not have it. I know there is a way to get the board to see the RAM but I think you have to go into the BIOS set the RAM to minimum spec for the CPU and then POST. It's been awhile since I've had my hands on one of the earlier Gen boards and being a bit on the Triptofan highway, brain isn't sourcing info.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 3rd Gen RoG boards and newer have these buttons though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Totally not trying to be a jerk, but that's what I was trying to say in my first post when I said that I didn't remember ever seeing one of the socket 775 boards with the Mem button on it. If it wasn't until the 3rd gen boards then that would be somewhere around the X58 chipset and socket 1366 when they started putting them on the boards. Sorry sometimes I just have to get that last word in









Edit, I did some quick research and only looking at the high end Asus boards for both Intel and AMD it was on the 3rd gen boards that the MemOK button was added, so on the Rampage extreme III (X58 socket 1366) and on the Crosshair III (socket AM3). So the MemOk button has only been a mainstream feature for the past 2 or 3 years, but may have shown up on a couple of boards here and there prior to that as a test to see how people liked it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Haha no worries mate. Too much turkey clouded my thought processes.









But that's pretty much how things happened.









~Ceadder


----------



## PathOfTheRighteousMan

Stock H100 fans are boring.

Spraying them white makes them better.. somehow.










Actually perform better than any other fans I have here. Well, almost. Better than having blue light glowing out the top of the case really.


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yes it does. It's the "GoSwitch". They're all the same. Promise. It's the little red button above the 24pin socket. Under the PCI-e selector switch box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


If you look in my sig you will see I have the REX,...I thought you had one on me until I took a flashlight to it,...NO GoMEM button on this board, and it's NOT in the BIOS, never was. Like I said, it will boot with any half decent DDR3 but it will take allot of tweaking to run high fsb and 4 sticks,...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubfoot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yes it does. It's the "GoSwitch". They're all the same. Promise. It's the little red button above the 24pin socket. Under the PCI-e selector switch box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you look in my sig you will see I have the REX,...I thought you had one on me until I took a flashlight to it,...NO GoMEM button on this board, and it's NOT in the BIOS, never was. Like I said, it will boot with any half decent DDR3 but it will take allot of tweaking to run high fsb and 4 sticks,...
Click to expand...

Yeah sorry mate. Too much turkey apparently makes my brain stop functioning properly. Some reason I thought you were speaking of the REX III Board.









~Ceadder


----------



## clubfoot

Np man,...it's all good info,...times are tough, no coin for new board and cpu


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PathOfTheRighteousMan*
> 
> Stock H100 fans are boring.
> Spraying them white makes them better.. somehow.
> Actually perform better than any other fans I have here. Well, almost. Better than having blue light glowing out the top of the case really.


I decided to go with the rad in the top so I could have push/exhaust:


----------



## Deano12345

Ordering my H100 tomorrow, just going to do push with some Akasa Apaches since I dont want to mount fans externally to do push-pull. It'll be nice not to have a massive chunk of metal hanging off the mobo


----------



## vdn20

I have a quick question, if I have two different fans, and I want to do a push-pull setup, which one should I use for which for an exhaust? Also, I won't know what you mean if you say use one as a push and the other as a pull because I'm not sure which one would be the push or pull. Thanks


----------



## Ceadderman

Use the most powerful fan as Push and least powerful as Pull.

I would suggest to test them to temp as well in case one has a better static pressure than the other. Powerful isn't just in RPM but cooling.









~Ceadder


----------



## vdn20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Use the most powerful fan as Push and least powerful as Pull.
> I would suggest to test them to temp as well in case one has a better static pressure than the other. Powerful isn't just in RPM but cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Sorry about this, but which would be the push and pull? I don't know which is which


----------



## Tohru Rokuno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vdn20*
> 
> Sorry about this, but which would be the push and pull? I don't know which is which


The push fan is the one that pushes the air into the radiator. The pull fan is the fan that pulls the air out of the radiator.

In this picture of my rig, the radiator is set up as an intake with push/pull fans.

The push fan is the clear Antec on the radiator, and the pull fan is the black Corsair fan on the radiator.

Air flows from right to left through the radiator.


----------



## vdn20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tohru Rokuno*
> 
> The push fan is the one that pushes the air into the radiator. The pull fan is the fan that pulls the air out of the radiator.
> In this picture of my rig, the radiator is set up as an intake with push/pull fans.
> The push fan is the clear Antec on the radiator, and the pull fan is the black Corsair fan on the radiator.
> Air flows from right to left through the radiator.


Okay, thanks


----------



## Jras

Guys I desperatley need your help. Just installed my new H100 cooler and now my rig won't start. Powers on for bout 3 second, makes quick beep and then restarts. What could be wrong?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jras*
> 
> Guys I desperatley need your help. Just installed my new H100 cooler and now my rig won't start. Powers on for bout 3 second, makes quick beep and then restarts. What could be wrong?


Make sure you plugged in all your connections. Even if you have to disconnect everything right down to the GPU and reseat it. I messed with my H50 one time and in doing so I had to lay my system over on its side. When I did that it wiggled the GPU enough to dislodge it from a clean connection. I reseated my Graphics, RAM, everything but the CPU and made sure it was tightly mounted. Then I went through and disconnected/reconnected every power cable. I could tell they were clean when I disconnected but I went through the motions anyway to make sure I didn't forget to connect a lead or something. When I stood my system back up it POSTed without issue. Sometimes you just have to get right back to the basics of system building to deal with an issue.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Make sure you plugged in all your connections. Even if you have to disconnect everything right down to the GPU and reseat it. I messed with my H50 one time and in doing so I had to lay my system over on its side. When I did that it wiggled the GPU enough to dislodge it from a clean connection. I reseated my Graphics, RAM, everything but the CPU and made sure it was tightly mounted. Then I went through and disconnected/reconnected every power cable. I could tell they were clean when I disconnected but I went through the motions anyway to make sure I didn't forget to connect a lead or something. When I stood my system back up it POSTed without issue. Sometimes you just have to get right back to the basics of system building to deal with an issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks;

Just tried that and pretty much rebuilt it from scratch, still not booting. Gonna try a replacement board and see if it works out. Hopefully I didn't fry the board. Even plugged the old v8 back in and no luck.

EDIT:
Have the board in my shop now for a full diagnostics. Ripped the board out of the case to ensure no shorting.

Seems the problem is the mounting of the heatplate/pump of the h100. Tried my old v8 again and it works fine. Tested the h100 by shorting the power supply and it works as well, but when ever the h100 is mounted on the board it does not boot.

and suggestions?

Edit 2:
Figured it out, I rotated the heatplate 90 degrees so that the tubes are at the bottom. Boots fine now, havent had a chance to check temps but will post results. Trying to get to 3.8Ghz, hopefully without too much voltage.


----------



## Ceadderman

Glad I gotcha on the right track. I love it when a plan comes together.


















~Ceadder


----------



## Krazee

Just swapped from two: Cooler Master Y720DCD-25T1-GP to two: Antec TriCool 120mm Blue and the difference is huge.

The cooler master are marked as 110 CFM @ 2500 RPM
The antce tricool are marked as 79 CFM @ 2000 RPM

The Antec fans a lot cooler than the Cooler Master


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krazee*
> 
> Just swapped from two: Cooler Master Y720DCD-25T1-GP to two: Antec TriCool 120mm Blue and the difference is huge.
> 
> The cooler master are marked as 110 CFM @ 2500 RPM
> The antce tricool are marked as 79 CFM @ 2000 RPM
> 
> The Antec fans a lot cooler than the Cooler Master


Before an After temps so we can be the judge of "huge".









~Ceadder


----------



## Krazee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Before an After temps so we can be the judge of "huge".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


While running Prime for over an hour: the old Cooler Master fans the temps were around 58 to 60 C. Right now with the Antec fans on full speed the temps are between 46-49


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah I would say that's a huge drop. That's what I got after lapping my CPU. I got a 15c drop in temps from that alone.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad I gotcha on the right track. I love it when a plan comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks for the push. Running on stock right now, havent had the time to put back on my OC. Chilly night here in usually warm Jamaica and my idle temps are 25|27|22|22, usually ill be in the high 30s. So far id say the upgrade is a success, this weekend ill have the time to play around in the BIOS, hoping to get to 3.8, will post back with results/temps.


----------



## Mergatroid

Was that on your sig rig? Is that a socket 775 board? I had the same thing happen on my socket 775 board when I was using it. It was a Core 2 Quad and had a row of capacitors at the top of the socket that would interfere with the H100 mounting. I also had to turn the block 90 degrees but luckily I noticed before turning the PC on. I was able to confirm the problem using a flashlight and rotate the block so there was no gap. I have just installed an i5 2500K in my case and I did not have the same problem with the new socket.

I would have told you this earlier but I have been transferring my system onto an SSD RAID over the last two days and did not have my email working.


----------



## Krazee

Old fans:



New fans:



Temps did go up but still awesome!


----------



## Kokin

^ Were you ambient temps the same during both tests? If so, then I'm amazed as well. Those CM fans must have bad static pressure to perform worse than slower-running Tricools.


----------



## Ceadderman

I found that slower running fans sometimes work better or just as well as higher speed fans. The reason is because the lower speed fans don't have a lot of backwash which allows the air to flow with less turbulence. But if you use a fan controller to dial your fans back then you should see a slight drop in temps reflective as though you had swapped low speed fans in place of the higher speed fans.









~Ceadder


----------



## Krazee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> ^ Were you ambient temps the same during both tests? If so, then I'm amazed as well. Those CM fans must have bad static pressure to perform worse than slower-running Tricools.


Ya the temps in the room were the same.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I found that slower running fans sometimes work better or just as well as higher speed fans. The reason is because the lower speed fans don't have a lot of backwash which allows the air to flow with less turbulence. But if you use a fan controller to dial your fans back then you should see a slight drop in temps reflective as though you had swapped low speed fans in place of the higher speed fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I find that really interesting. I bought the CM fans thinking they would be awesome. Guess I was wrong.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah I think the only decent 120s' that CM has is those Excalibers. They seem to do pretty well because they're perforated on the body which allows the blades to use the air better. Not as good as a shroud and a fan but ~4c +/- difference I think. Someone round here has a comparative analysis I think. I forget where I saw the information though, since I don't normally go out of my way to spend money on fans. I get Yate Loons because their Static Pressure is really good for the $4 I pay for them. Shipping is extra of course.









~Ceadder


----------



## connorman51

My build, im quite happy with it in general


----------



## Ctrl Alt Elite

Anyone taken the pump/ waterblock assembly apart? I want to use it as just the block, no pump, any thoughts? I will be adding a stonger pump into the loop to cool my new 580 and the cpu and to make it less financially burdensome, recycle the h70 into the new setup


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ctrl Alt Elite*
> 
> Anyone taken the pump/ waterblock assembly apart? I want to use it as just the block, no pump, any thoughts? I will be adding a stonger pump into the loop to cool my new 580 and the cpu and to make it less financially burdensome, recycle the h70 into the new setup


I wouldn't do that. You take a huge risk by gutting the block of the pump. Adding a stronger pump to the line is just fine. Would take some of the burden off the block pump as well.

If you wish to have no pump on the CPU, you can get used blocks here or get a new one for ~$40 from Performance-PCs or Frozen or just about anywhere. Performance has a DangerDen block for around $40 as well as Zalman, XSPC and if you don't mind spending a little more have EK Copper Blocks for $45 which may come with fittings. You would just have to have the correct size barbs to fit the tubing you would be using for the Radiator and you'd be fine. I believe that the tubing required would be .25" ID if I'm not mistaken. I never went that far with my H50 but I remember that the tubing at the fittings was really small.









~Ceadder


----------



## kaliermc

Hi, I've had a Corsair Hydro H50 for about 8 months now. I cannot get my AMD Phenom II X6 past 3.8Ghz because the CPU overheats with any voltage above 1.38v, it gets temperatures of 70+ degrees, my motherboard actually feeds it 1.42v. Is anybody else experiencing this? I'm using an ASUS Crossfire IV motherboard and a Corsair TX650 PSU.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaliermc*
> 
> Hi, I've had a Corsair Hydro H50 for about 8 months now. I cannot get my AMD Phenom II X6 past 3.8Ghz because the CPU overheats with any voltage above 1.38v, it gets temperatures of 70+ degrees, my motherboard actually feeds it 1.42v. Is anybody else experiencing this? I'm using an ASUS Crossfire IV motherboard and a Corsair TX650 PSU.


Yup. In some ambients or with some modification the H50 is just fine. But sometimes that's not feasible for the end user. It's why I went and started my Loop.









Now if I can just gitRdun I'll be a happy camper.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jamar16

Please Add me.

Corsair H100


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad I gotcha on the right track. I love it when a plan comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Nice one there Hanibal


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaliermc*
> 
> Hi, I've had a Corsair Hydro H50 for about 8 months now. I cannot get my AMD Phenom II X6 past 3.8Ghz because the CPU overheats with any voltage above 1.38v, it gets temperatures of 70+ degrees, my motherboard actually feeds it 1.42v. Is anybody else experiencing this? I'm using an ASUS Crossfire IV motherboard and a Corsair TX650 PSU.


Are you sure you've mounted it correctly? You could try changing the thermal paste on there as well or having a push/pull setup with fans. I'm not sure how the weather is in Iowa, but in California, I almost never reach 40C(unless it's Prime or IBT) with my quad at 4ghz with 1.46v. You may also want to blow out any dust or dirt build up on the rad fins if there are any. One last thing is to make sure the pump is running at full speed (around 1400RPM) in a program like speedfan.


----------



## Qu1ckset

You Can add me, i got the corsair H80, but man are the stock fans loud lol




























ps dont watch the cable management i need to clean it up tomorrow and flip a fan around, was in a rush to finish it last night


----------



## Kokin

Ooh a Raven 3 with the silver trimming. How do you like your case? I'm thinking about getting a RV/FT02 or maybe even the RV03 one of these days. That 6990 looks like a tight fit.

Btw, you'll have to add yourself to the club. Just go to the first post and it's a short quick process.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Ooh a Raven 3 with the silver trimming. How do you like your case? I'm thinking about getting a RV/FT02 or maybe even the RV03 one of these days. That 6990 looks like a tight fit.
> Btw, you'll have to add yourself to the club. Just go to the first post and it's a short quick process.


Its atually grey lol, and I love my rv03, I've prevously owned the rv01 and the ft03(selling it), I'm a huge silverstone fan, but the rv01 had its issues, and the ft03 is a pain in the ass to build, and no room for more then 2 hdd, 1ssd, but its a nice case, but the rv03 is absolutly the best they adressed all the problems of the rv01 and rv02..

As for the 6990 there is still more room lol, I'd roccomend the rv03 over the rv02/ft02 but some people dislike the looks of the rv03 I love it and can't wait to see what they do with the next case


----------



## WeirdHarold

If anyone needs Gentle Typhoon AP-15's they have them in Canada here's the link:
http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p6624_Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-Fan-1850-rpm---120x120x25mm--.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Too bad there is a $75 minimum with AT or you pay more.









~Ceadder


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Too bad there is a $75 minimum with AT or you pay more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I ordered 8 of them so that wasn't a problem


----------



## kaliermc

Yes I have a push pull configuration and I have re-apply Arctic 5 thermal paste to the CPU with the recommended amount. In order for me to keep the CPU under 70 degrees during Prime96 testings I open my office window and let the 35 degree cold air come in and hit the back of the case. I have been fighting this for about a year. I used to have trouble with my overclock crashing but that was because I wasn't giving my RAM sticks enough voltage. Now that I have narrowed it down to temperature, there must be something wrong with my H50 cooling system.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaliermc*
> 
> Yes I have a push pull configuration and I have re-apply Arctic 5 thermal paste to the CPU with the recommended amount. In order for me to keep the CPU under 70 degrees during Prime96 testings I open my office window and let the 35 degree cold air come in and hit the back of the case. I have been fighting this for about a year. I used to have trouble with my overclock crashing but that was because I wasn't giving my RAM sticks enough voltage. Now that I have narrowed it down to temperature, there must be something wrong with my H50 cooling system.


This is what I'd recommend checking, make sure your fans are both pushing air in the same direction(not both pushing air into the rad), also if you aren't running a fan controller then I've found it's best to run the fans at 100% all the time to. I don't know where you have the pump plugged into but if you have it plugged into a fan header try plugging it into a molex to 3pin fan adapter so that it just gets full power all the time. I have a 965BE and after hours of Prime95 I can't get my temps above about 48c with my H50.

If you've tried the above I'm sorry to suggest it again and good luck I hope you get it figured out







But if you can't I understand Corsair is great about the warranty on these things.


----------



## Kokin

Yeah, the only thing is to check that your push/pull fans are both facing the same direction and that your pump is running 100% (1400RPM). Otherwise, you may have to RMA with Corsair.

I have seen others in this thread running their fans against each other (both facing each other) and have gotten results similar to you. There are also others who had their pump running at a lower speed due to a motherboard/BIOS setting that didn't run the pump at full speed.


----------



## rab1/2

Hey i just bought and H80 to intstall after i finish guting my HAF 912 of all those goofy 5.25 and hdd bays.

I plan on using it as intake where the 5.25 bays used to be and i would love to keep a red LED fan as its push ( want to keep the look of the led fan in the bays). i have a CM sickle flow there right now (R4-L2R-20AR-R1).

anyone else use this fan on their H series cooler? seems to have decent pressure ( ill keep it full power all the time i think)


----------



## rab1/2

uh interesting, 3 posts for one click


----------



## rab1/2

something crazy just happened.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rab1/2*
> 
> Hey i just bought and H80 to intstall after i finish guting my HAF 912 of all those goofy 5.25 and hdd bays.
> 
> I plan on using it as intake where the 5.25 bays used to be and i would love to keep a red LED fan as its push ( want to keep the look of the led fan in the bays). i have a CM sickle flow there right now (R4-L2R-20AR-R1).
> 
> anyone else use this fan on their H series cooler? seems to have decent pressure ( ill keep it full power all the time i think)


I've heard Sickles are okay but I used Yates on mine. Very good fans for the $4 price per fan. If you get them from Performance-PC without the sleeving option they're $4 each. I'm not sure the H80 will go where you want it without a shroud in between the Push fan and the Radiator. Even in a mid the size of the 912. So be prepared and keep that in mind before you go into this.









~Ceadder


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey are any of you guys using the stock h80 fans at 100%(striaght power) ??? I find mine loud like I here them over my 6990 when its at 50%


----------



## Qu1ckset

Double post sorry, site runs like crap on my blackberry bold 9900


----------



## Qu1ckset

Think I might just order some ap15s and be done with these loud stock fans for the h80


----------



## kaliermc

Thanks for your advise. I will do some experiments with an exhaust configuration as opposed to blowing hot air into my case. Also, maybe try using one fan and see if my fans are fighting each other.


----------



## rab1/2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I've heard Sickles are okay but I used Yates on mine. Very good fans for the $4 price per fan. If you get them from Performance-PC without the sleeving option they're $4 each. I'm not sure the H80 will go where you want it without a shroud in between the Push fan and the Radiator. Even in a mid the size of the 912. So be prepared and keep that in mind before you go into this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


why is it ya think i would need a shroud in between the push and the rad? Is there something i am missing? i have only seen on picture of an h80 with a shroud.


----------



## kaliermc

Well I figured out the problem. As I was getting ready to take the fans off the radiator to configure them in exhaust mode I notice a ton of dust built up into the radiator fins. Cleaned it up, put it back together, ran a burn test and my max temperature was 64 degrees! Thanks.


----------



## Mergatroid

Perhaps he's referring to the length of the hoses. For example, when I installed an H50 in my spare computer, I mounted it at the front as intake. In order for the block to reach the CPU I had to install a shroud on the intake to move the rad a little closer.


----------



## rab1/2

ah ok that makes sense, i did a quick check and it seems like it shouldnt be much of a problem. and adding a shroud is suposed to give a slight boost in performance right?

so if i had to its not much of a problem.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup that's exactly what I was referring to.









~Ceadder


----------



## swarm87

still im planning stages but was wondering what unit is good for a N00B building into a haf 932? can i still use the stock rear exhaust fan with the included one for push/pull. and if i choose to go with an h100(dependant on how much overtime i can get for the holidays) do i have to remove the top 230 to get the radiator up there and can i still use it with a h100. if i were to go with a cheaper route id probably get a h60


----------



## hawaiiboy_88

Just installed a Corsair H60, I use an i5 2500k.
Temps are a bit high, with
Core0 @35C
Core1 @24C (What's up with this one?)
Core2 @40C
Core3 @35C
Which one should I trust?
These are all in idle and stock clock @1.2V
Is this normal? The only intake fan are on the front, with 200mm CM [email protected] 1100RPM (a lot of air)

And boy does the stock corsair fan bring noise..
In fact my case vibrates now..
Should I put another fan on the radiator?
I have a spare excalibur fan from the Hyper 212+, the stock corsair fan(which is too noisy) and a stock rear fan from the case.
What would you suggest? Would I need to buy another more silent fan?


----------



## Inraged Twitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hawaiiboy_88*
> 
> Just installed a Corsair H60, I use an i5 2500k.
> Temps are a bit high, with
> Core0 @35C
> Core1 @24C (What's up with this one?)
> Core2 @40C
> Core3 @35C
> Which one should I trust?
> These are all in idle and stock clock @1.2V
> Is this normal? The only intake fan are on the front, with 200mm CM [email protected] 1100RPM (a lot of air)
> And boy does the stock corsair fan bring noise..
> In fact my case vibrates now..
> Should I put another fan on the radiator?
> I have a spare excalibur fan from the Hyper 212+, the stock corsair fan(which is too noisy) and a stock rear fan from the case.
> What would you suggest? Would I need to buy another more silent fan?


try reseating it again that's a pretty big jump from 24c to 40c.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swarm87*
> 
> still im planning stages but was wondering what unit is good for a N00B building into a haf 932? can i still use the stock rear exhaust fan with the included one for push/pull. and if i choose to go with an h100(dependant on how much overtime i can get for the holidays) do i have to remove the top 230 to get the radiator up there and can i still use it with a h100. if i were to go with a cheaper route id probably get a h60


Both the H60 and H100 are good coolers. The H100 is better but you pay a lot more for it. I think the rear fan in the Haf 932 is a 140mm, isn't it? The H60 uses a 120mm fan, so I don't see how you can mount the 140 without some type of mod. You'll need another 120mm fan and some screws for push/pull on a H60. You could try a 120/140mm converter.

Yes, you're going to have to remove the top 230mm fan if you want to install the H100 up top. However, you should be able to get the H100 to work with push/pull inside the case which would be great actually. The H100 block will control 4 fans, so if you like auto control on the cpu-cooler fans the H100 is a pretty good choice. It will give you good temps with two or four fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hawaiiboy_88*
> 
> Just installed a Corsair H60, I use an i5 2500k.
> Temps are a bit high, with
> Core0 @35C
> Core1 @24C (What's up with this one?)
> Core2 @40C
> Core3 @35C
> Which one should I trust?
> These are all in idle and stock clock @1.2V
> Is this normal? The only intake fan are on the front, with 200mm CM [email protected] 1100RPM (a lot of air)
> And boy does the stock corsair fan bring noise..
> In fact my case vibrates now..
> Should I put another fan on the radiator?
> I have a spare excalibur fan from the Hyper 212+, the stock corsair fan(which is too noisy) and a stock rear fan from the case.
> What would you suggest? Would I need to buy another more silent fan?


Your fan shouldn't make your case vibrate. I have three Corsair water coolers and none of them make the case vibrate. Make sure there's nothing wrong with your fans. Is your fan three pins or four pins (pwm)? If it's four pins, try plugging it into the CPU_FAN header and move the pump to the PWR_FAN header. This should allow your board to control the fan and slow it down when you're under light load. If it's three pin, you should examine it carefully. Make sure it's not a bad fan. It shouldn't make the case vibrate. Your sure it was screwed down securely?

My idle temps on my i5 2500k at a room temp of 23c jump from 31c to 37c with only one core going as low as 31 and one core going as high as 37. Average all four are around 34c I'm using an H100 so your temps don't seem all that bad to me. This is at low load clock speed of 3.3GHz. When under high load, it's set for 4.5GHz and my temps can go as high as 73c maximum after 30 minutes of Intel Burn Test.


----------



## cjc75

Hey guys, doing a rebuild on my main computer this weekend...

Taking my H50 out, so I can remove my Phenom II x4 955 and its motherboard/RAM; and replace them with a Core i5 2500K and a new motherboard/ram.

New Mobo is an ASRock Z68 Extreme4 Gen3... and I plan to reuse the H50 on it with the 2500K instead of the stock intel cooler.

So, what should I do regarding the old Shin Etsu that was pre-applied onto the H50?

Should I clean all that off, and mount it with something newer; or can that Shin Etsu be reused somehow?

I would imagine I would have to clean it all off, and re-apply something new. I have a brand new tube of MX4 that I planned to use; as well as an older tube of ICD7 and AS5 that I could also use but since the MX4 is brand new I figured I would use that. But would it be sufficient as replacement TIM on the H50; or should I go look for a tube of Shin Etsu, and which kind? There is a Microcenter nearby that stocks Shin Etsu X23-7762...

Also, what is the best way to apply new TIM onto the H50? Following the traditional recommendation of a small pea sized dot in the center, or would this thing need something more for optimal preformance?


----------



## Mergatroid

All the TIM you mention is pretty good. However, the only major difference between the Shin Etsu and the AS5 is that the AS5 requires a curing time of about 200 hours before you get the best temps from it (a difference of only a few degrees c).

So, after a week the AS5 will be every bit as good as the Shin Etsu is.

Here's a great thread comparing different TIMs that Ceaderman found:

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62

Shin Etsu and AS5 are both at the top of the pack.


----------



## cjc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> All the TIM you mention is pretty good. However, the only major difference between the Shin Etsu and the AS5 is that the AS5 requires a curing time of about 200 hours before you get the best temps from it (a difference of only a few degrees c).
> So, after a week the AS5 will be every bit as good as the Shin Etsu is.
> Here's a great thread comparing different TIMs that Ceaderman found:
> http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62
> Shin Etsu and AS5 are both at the top of the pack.


I got it!

Only needed a small pea sized dot after all...

As for that benchmark reviews on TIM...

Its almost over 3 years old and there are a LOT of new TIM's out there now, so I don't trust reviews like that.

I just used my new tube of MX-4 and its working great!


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cjc75*
> 
> I got it!
> Only needed a small pea sized dot after all...
> As for that benchmark reviews on TIM...
> Its almost over 3 years old and there are a LOT of new TIM's out there now, so I don't trust reviews like that.
> I just used my new tube of MX-4 and its working great!


You can use the MX-2 from that old test as a reference. Considering the MX-4 is a few C better than the MX-2, you made a good decision in using it.


----------



## flowtek

Hi,

Just got my H60, looks good.. i got 86c prime with 4.1ghz 1.42v using my old deepcool, now 75c max.. hehe, still hot, but very nice improvement













oh.. i did forget something, i realize that i pluged the pump connector on 4pin cpu fan header, is that matter? i saw 4380rpm in hwmonitor

thx
flo


----------



## Mergatroid

Does the H60 come with a three pin fan or a four pin fan? I know the H50 on my spare computer came with a four pin (PWM) fan. I loved that because I could plug it right into the CPU_FAN header and let the system control the speed of the fan.

If it's only a three pin fan then you can't control it that way unless your mobo can control 3 pin fans (most can't).

If it is a 3 pin fan, then it really doesn't matter how you plug things in as long as you don't let the system vary the pump speed. Make sure you turn the control off for the header you plug the pump into. You can plug the fan in anywhere if you just want it running at 100% all the time.

You could lower your temps a little further by adding a second fan to the H60 so you can use push/pull. If you do that, use the fan with the best static pressure as the "push" fan.


----------



## flowtek

thx Merg,

mine came with 3pin for the header and i never turned on smart fan control in bios, i like all the fan to run 100% speed.. i noticed my vga run a lilbit warm, like 2-4c hotter, but it doesnt matter, 78-80c is fine with me









its really difficult to find a decent case fan in my country and the price is quite expensive for us,.. another thing is, i have no idea which fan has static pressure







, if u dont mind choosing it for me i give you our local online comp shop here http://viraindo.com/pc3.html , they have huuuuge hardware list, that's just 1 page category, scroll down or sideways to find table with Fan Casing.. and um.. $1 = 10.000, my budget is $10 to $15 top.. waste my saving already with this H60









my airflow configuration is 2 front intake (12cm 1200rpm coolermaster), 2 top exhaust (12cm 1200rpm coolermaster) and 1 rear paired with h60 rad, i really want to have push pull config.

thx very much

flo

EDIT: well i found my old 1800rpm coolermaster case fan, i tested it works well, 1800-1900rpm in hwmonitor,.. now its time to push pull.. so, which is where? cm fan << rad << stock corsair fan ? im using it for exhaust


----------



## Mergatroid

That fan should be OK. I was going to select the coolermaster fan from your list anyway, since I didn't want to do an internet search for all those fans just to read their specs.

This fan: Cooler Master 12cm Rifle Bearing 2000 rpm silent Lampu should be this: http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=4375 which has a static pressure of 2.94 mmH2O. Unfortunately Corsair doesn't mention the static pressure of their H60 fan, but it must be fair or they wouldn't have selected it for a rad fan.

The cooler master fan is an OK fan.

You are correct, make your H60 fan push and the cooler master fan pull.

H60fan>RAD>CoolerMaster fan and that should be OK.

Let us know how it turns out.


----------



## flowtek

thx 4 the recommendation Merg,

yes, thats exactly the fan, so i did reassemble my H60, but.. forgot that i need another 4 long screw, dayum... i'll leave it as it is for now, my house is near ace hardware so im gonna drop by after work,..

thx +rep

flo


----------



## Mergatroid

The screw size you're looking for is: 6 x 32 x 1 1/4" #6 machine thread, 32 threads per inch, 1.25" long.


----------



## flowtek

i got what you described about the screw, fits perfectly on the rad







,.. thx merg

im a little bit shock about the result just by adding another fan









ok.. so, let me just show you the real action









4.1Ghz with DeepCool IceEdge << this one long gone



4.1Ghz with H60 Pull



4.1Ghz H60 PushPull



SmallFFT, i think 25 minutes is enough for now just to make sure.. never touch 65c











well.. for $70 i think its now doing its job very well, im surprised, i was thinking about buying the $220 EK set but then such a waste on an old dual core .. but im pretty sure that i can still use this H60 to cool my next 2600K, probably next year









thx so much
flo

EDIT: both fans running between 1800-1900, it fluctuated.. i thought the SickeFlow will stick to 2000rpm, but anyway... happy now


----------



## Mergatroid

That's great. Nice to see such a good result. Glad that fan worked out.


----------



## Shub

So I'm moving my H50 from an LGA1366 to an LGA775 system, and I'm having the time of my life (not) taking the pieces of plastic that go in each corner of the ring-shaped thing that's part of how the cooler is attached. Talking about the pieces of plastic through which the screws go, just to be clear. How the hell does one take those out of the metal ring? There's a little plastic thing you can push to take one side out, but then on the other side there's another, immovable plastic notch that is preventing me from doing anything. I don't want to apply too much force since I don't want to bend the metal ring. Is there a trick to it I'm not getting?

*Edit:* never mind, it was just the one that was being a pain. I broke it in the process of removing it. The others came out easily by using a flathead screwdriver as a lever. Probably won't be using it in another system, so it's no problem that the one's broken.


----------



## valtopps

i just picked up a h60 should be in this week. hows the h60 compair to the rest of the h series.


----------



## Mergatroid

Right in the middle of the pack. It's a good cooler.


----------



## Corrupt

quick question! Do ap-15 work with the h100 fan controller? The rep at the store said only the stock 3pin corsair fans adjusts speed or 4 pin pwm fans. He said regular 3 pin fans will just run full speed.


----------



## Cyrious

my h50 and overclocking board are on their way!


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corrupt*
> 
> quick question! Do ap-15 work with the h100 fan controller? The rep at the store said only the stock 3pin corsair fans adjusts speed or 4 pin pwm fans. He said regular 3 pin fans will just run full speed.


The rep at your local store is full of crap. The stock H100 fans are normal 3-pin fans. You can use ANY fans on the H100. As a matter of fact, even if you plug in a 4-pin PWM fan, it still gets controlled the same way as a 3-pin fan (voltage regulation) as the H100 block does not contain a PWM controller.

Tell your rep he should stop making things up, or link you to the information he claims is true.


----------



## trivium nate

whats teh latest corsair h cooler? ive got the h50


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trivium nate*
> 
> whats teh latest corsair h cooler? ive got the h50


H100, which is what happens when the H50 is equipped with a 240mm radiator.


----------



## DireLeon2010

Looking to replace my fans. Do Slipstreams work better singly or in pairs in push/pull. May seem like a stupid question but, since they are high static (?) I wasn't sure if two SSs would interfere with each other. Hope that makes sense


----------



## rudderz666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DireLeon2010*
> 
> Looking to replace my fans. Do Slipstreams work better singly or in pairs in push/pull. May seem like a stupid question but, since they are high static (?) I wasn't sure if two SSs would interfere with each other. Hope that makes sense


I use the gentle typhoon 1800rpms low static and better temps mine dropped 10c when fitted XD try them out they work with fan controller too at 800rpm and still get nice temps XD


----------



## bobbavet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DireLeon2010*
> 
> Looking to replace my fans. Do Slipstreams work better singly or in pairs in push/pull. May seem like a stupid question but, since they are high static (?) I wasn't sure if two SSs would interfere with each other. Hope that makes sense


Yeh I would be interested to know this. Icould then fit a push pull in my case.


----------



## enri95

I want to replace my fan for h50. Any suggestions?

Good noise/performance ratio I wouldn't mind a little noise though since I have other fans in my case









I currently have the stock h50 fan (1) blowing as intake.

For the next fan I'm gonna put it as exhaust.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyrious*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *trivium nate*
> 
> whats teh latest corsair h cooler? ive got the h50
> 
> 
> 
> H100, which is what happens when the H50 is equipped with a 240mm radiator.
Click to expand...

And a better block/pump.

@DireLeon2010
Scythe Slipstream fans are normal 25mm fans which will work fine in push/pull. I was using two 1900 RPM 110 CFM PWM Scythe SlipStream high speed fans on an H70 and they worked OK. I'm using them on an H100 right now as push/exhaust and again they work OK. The stock H100 fans are better though, higher CFM and static pressure and RPM, but also higher noise. I'm only using the SS because they are the PWM version and I can run two of them from my CPU_FAN header using a PWM splitter. They seem to work OK at low speed too, I'm not getting any unusual noises from them at low RPMs (500 RPM at idle). I wish ASUS would let us control the RPM ramp of the CPU fan.

When I can find some high speed Scythe GTs locally I'm going to try them. I hear you can add a PWM wire and use them as PWM fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enri95*
> 
> I want to replace my fan for h50. Any suggestions?
> Good noise/performance ratio I wouldn't mind a little noise though since I have other fans in my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I currently have the stock h50 fan (1) blowing as intake.
> For the next fan I'm gonna put it as exhaust.


Scythe Gentle Typhoons or Yate Loons are both excellent choices.


----------



## [email protected]

I'm still loving my cooler but this does raises me some questions. How long do you think our coolers will last. Especially having to change thermal perhaps. My temps are fine but i always wondered how long would it continue to last you know? Wouldn't i have to go buy a new cooler after the year itself expires? Least what? 3 years?

Isn't that too long. I can't remember how long i had this but it does certainly feel like i had this for a year or two now. Still gets me wondering if i should buy a brand new one to be safe. I just don't want it stop or explode on me lol. Not that it will









Just wondered if any of you had the coolers longer than you expected? Would love some input.


----------



## Mergatroid

All of the Hydro series coolers except the H40 have 5 year warranties. What does that say? It says they should last more than five years.

The H40 has a 2 year warranty. That may be due to the different hoses they use but I couldn't say for sure. I'll be using my H100 until my temps start getting bad and I don't expect that for a long long time.

The H80 has only been on the market for, what, four months? You sure have not owned it for a year or two.


----------



## Sethy666

With changes in design and new products coming out, you will probably upgrade your cooler before your current model needs replacing.

I installed a H-50 once they landed here and upgraded to H-100 when they came out. I wasnt having any issues with the H-50 at the time of my upgrade.


----------



## Cyrious

finally got my H50! will post pics tomorrow once i can borrow the camera again.

Need a better case though, even though the H50 is a bit smaller than what i orignally anticipated in my case its still big enough to make push/pull impossible.


----------



## r2yneth

Holy, this is a sick thread - exactly what I've been looking for!

Does anyone have any experience with an Antec 900 case with scythe gentle typhoons x2 in a push-pull (exhaust) config?

I'm currently running Antec 900 with below stats
- 2 120mm front intake fans
- 1 120mm side intake fan
- 1 200mm top exhaust fan
- 2 120mm push-pull fans for my H60

Idle temps of my i5 2500k @ 4.5GHz at 1.31 Vcore are at 32-40C with max load temps under 65C

I've been reading a lot of posts and everyone has been stating their builds achieving 20-28C idle with max loads under 58C.

My main question would be: If I changed them to push-pull intake, would the 200mm top fan be sufficient enough to draw all the hot air out? (ie 4 intakes and 1 top exhaust)

EDIT: I've just noticed my mobo sensor states my CPU is sitting at 26C, should I believe this or should I continue to read from Core Temp and HWMonitor?


----------



## Simonzi

How are the H50's holding up on SandyBridge? I've had my i7 950 under it, but have a i7 2700K coming in, and don't know if the H50 will still be well enough to cool it efficiently, or if I should start looking at a cooler a little stronger.


----------



## valtopps

well i had a thermalright ulta 120 with a yate loon med. fan worked great on my rig. i decided to try the h60 i have the side case open with the fan blowing into the case im getting the same temps. i think your better off not using a corsair h series there more money, parts that can go bad, leaks and noisier. i really think with the sb cpu there so much cooler then the older cpu like the 775 quads that a good air cooler is all you need. btw my temps where 59-65-63-62 case temp was 21


----------



## Simonzi

Well, I already have the H50. I actually did have a TRUE Black before that, with push\pull Yate Loons. But it just takes up so much space. I'm very anal about the way things look inside my computer case. Much more than I should be. Unless it's a huge, glaring difference, I'll pick form over function.


----------



## aas88keyz

New owner of an H80. I am very impressed with my purchase. Had it for a few weeks and actually went over my expectations. Went from 3.814 Ghz at 58C load 45C idle on my Phenom II BE965 and now with H80 I am currently at 4.163 Ghz with 48C load and 34C idle (IBT, Prime95 and FAH stable). Now I have to ask how safe is it to add voltage to my BE965 with H80 as my liquid cooler. My Phenom II seems to like voltage but I have googled and have not been able to find safe voltage standards for H series and Phenom II's. What do you recommend?

P.S. even with success I have had with my H80 the funny story is that the second day after installing it I bought a new case and was transferring my hardware over to the new case and left all of it open in my room with my cat and left for about 5 minutes. Came back to find a leak. after careful examination I found teeth marks in one of my hoses. I don't think I can replace my H80 due to pet disobedience so I did the ******* fix and went around it with electrical tape. I didn't think it was going to work but after a while I stopped the minor link and have seen no evidence of it since. Three weeks later and everything seems to be working fine. No more sign of leaks. I know this was impratical and I am taking a big risk here but will this solution work until I upgrade to an H100 or is there a better solution I can make until then.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valtopps*
> 
> well i had a thermalright ulta 120 with a yate loon med. fan worked great on my rig. i decided to try the h60 i have the side case open with the fan blowing into the case im getting the same temps. i think your better off not using a corsair h series there more money, parts that can go bad, leaks and noisier. i really think with the sb cpu there so much cooler then the older cpu like the 775 quads that a good air cooler is all you need. btw my temps where 59-65-63-62 case temp was 21


Actually very few people have experienced leaks with the Corsair H series coolers, and any leaks that have caused damage have been taken care of by Corsair including replacing any damaged hardware. The H series coolers have a 5 year warranty which should tell you something.

Also, I just moved from a socket 775 Core 2 quad to an i5 2500K and I can tell you that the i5 runs WAY hotter than the Core 2 quad ever did (of course it's also running way faster).

I have three hydro coolers here and they all do an excellent job. Of course, considering this is the Hydro club I bet there's hundreds of people here who can tell you how great these coolers are. I don't think they would be so popular if they were as bad as you claim.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simonzi*
> 
> How are the H50's holding up on SandyBridge? I've had my i7 950 under it, but have a i7 2700K coming in, and don't know if the H50 will still be well enough to cool it efficiently, or if I should start looking at a cooler a little stronger.


Your H50 should work fine. Just look at the stock coolers, obviously the H50 kicks them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r2yneth*
> 
> Holy, this is a sick thread - exactly what I've been looking for!
> 
> Does anyone have any experience with an Antec 900 case with scythe gentle typhoons x2 in a push-pull (exhaust) config?
> 
> I'm currently running Antec 900 with below stats
> - 2 120mm front intake fans
> - 1 120mm side intake fan
> - 1 200mm top exhaust fan
> - 2 120mm push-pull fans for my H60
> 
> Idle temps of my i5 2500k @ 4.5GHz at 1.31 Vcore are at 32-40C with max load temps under 65C
> 
> I've been reading a lot of posts and everyone has been stating their builds achieving 20-28C idle with max loads under 58C.
> 
> My main question would be: If I changed them to push-pull intake, would the 200mm top fan be sufficient enough to draw all the hot air out? (ie 4 intakes and 1 top exhaust)
> 
> EDIT: I've just noticed my mobo sensor states my CPU is sitting at 26C, should I believe this or should I continue to read from Core Temp and HWMonitor?


My i5 2500K idles at 28c to 34c when it's idle clock is 1600. When under full load using Intel Burn Test (which beats the crap out of the CPU way more than Prime95) and clocked up to 4500 it's running at 73c after a half hour.

While playing Skyrim or BF3 it never goes over 60c. Note I'm not using the stock H100 fans, but a couple of Scythe SS 1900 RPM PWM fans which are not as good.

I think your system is working fine. I would recommend Speed Fan and CPUz for monitoring.

@aas88keyz

Hey. First let me say I admire your willingness to take responsibility for the leak in your H80. Not many people would do that these days, and most would try to argue with the manufacture or retail outlet to try and get them to replace it. You should email [email protected] and tell him your story. I know they have never included cat-proofing their coolers but since you're being honest about it maybe they would consider giving you a discount on a new one if you shipped your current damaged unit back to Corsair? Couldn't hurt to ask.

Personally, there's no way I would leave a water cooler in my computer knowing there was a leak covered with electrical tape. Gives me shivers just thinking about it. As for upgrading, the H100 and H80 are only one or two degrees c apart from each other. The H80 is an excellent cooler. I usually recommend people pick whichever cooler fits and looks best in their case since their performance is so similar.

Good luck with the leak. Maybe a bit of silicon glue might fix that leak permanently. Or even a dab of epoxy? Actually, after thinking about it, if I was in your position, I would consider cutting the hoses off and replacing them with something else. If you look around you can find mods people have done to the H50 to replace the hoses and refill the cooler. I don't think the H80 would be any different. Since the warranty is likely done now anyway, I don't think you have anything to lose. I would still talk to Corsair about it first though. Perhaps they might have a better suggestion.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> As for upgrading, the H100 and H80 are only one or two degrees c apart from each other. The H80 is an excellent cooler. I usually recommend people pick whichever cooler fits and looks best in their case since their performance is so similar.


H100 / ASRock Extreme4 Gen3 / HAF 922 ... works with very minor modifications!

I would also ad in the recommendation above, to consider the noise/performance ratio. That was the deciding factor for me to go with the H100 over the H80 and it's only $10 more, they perform almost the same but on high loads/settings my buddies H80 is considerably louder than my H100.

See *THIS* review









My biggest concern was if the H100 would fit in my case without considerable modding. I searched high and low for information on the above combination. No joy anywhere







The ASRock E4/G3 has fairly tall heatsinks! With the H100 in hand, I intially didn't think it would clear the uppermost heatsink and still be able to use the 120mm fan hole alignment on top? :O *It did clear by 3/16ths of an inch*







(see pic). I did have to extend (dremmel) 2 of the mounting holes about a 1/4" to have 6 total mounting screws (not 8) and its plenty secure! These are fairly common/popular components and _I thought someone may find this useful!_









I've owned many heatsinks over the years including the epic Noctua D-14, and I'm more than pleased with the H100's performance so far, and what a plus being able to easily get to my ram with no effort at all. Against Corsairs recomendations of an "Intake" configuration, I installed it in an "exhaust" config (physics!), a "bastardized" push/pull config using my old CM200mm fan to "pull" mounted externally on top of the case. It works so well that on the H100's lowest setting, the highest load temp I saw was 55c after a couple hours of P95, running @ 4.6ghz in a, granted, very cool 60F room! The H100 "High" setting seemed to only make a 4-5c difference because I think it needs higher loads/temps to really kick in? Hopefully that will change today when I actually turn the Ambient heat up


----------



## rudderz666

can any 1 help i have the H70 with gental typhoons 1800rpm on and my temp are great 26c idle but today i desided to mod my case and had to move 1 case fan from were it was (typhoon1800) but i was thinking off adding this too my H70 as extra fan but wood it better as a extra push or pull or wood it just be makin lass room to work for no reason hope that makes sence lol thx


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> @aas88keyz
> Hey. First let me say I admire your willingness to take responsibility for the leak in your H80. Not many people would do that these days, and most would try to argue with the manufacture or retail outlet to try and get them to replace it. You should email [email protected] and tell him your story. I know they have never included cat-proofing their coolers but since you're being honest about it maybe they would consider giving you a discount on a new one if you shipped your current damaged unit back to Corsair? Couldn't hurt to ask.
> Personally, there's no way I would leave a water cooler in my computer knowing there was a leak covered with electrical tape. Gives me shivers just thinking about it. As for upgrading, the H100 and H80 are only one or two degrees c apart from each other. The H80 is an excellent cooler. I usually recommend people pick whichever cooler fits and looks best in their case since their performance is so similar.
> Good luck with the leak. Maybe a bit of silicon glue might fix that leak permanently. Or even a dab of epoxy? Actually, after thinking about it, if I was in your position, I would consider cutting the hoses off and replacing them with something else. If you look around you can find mods people have done to the H50 to replace the hoses and refill the cooler. I don't think the H80 would be any different. Since the warranty is likely done now anyway, I don't think you have anything to lose. I would still talk to Corsair about it first though. Perhaps they might have a better suggestion.


Thank you for your response Mergatroid. I will send an email to yellowbeard as soon as I can though I don't know if there is much he can do. Like you said, couldn't hurt to ask. IDK if my new case, CM 960 II Advanced, would allow me the room to do it but if I can get the H100 in push/pull would it still be only a couple C's difference. I have read so far in other threads that in order to push/pull an H100 I would have to put the top fans on top of my case and take the top off. I don't really want to do that so I am going to do more research to be sure, if it all fits inside and the C's make a big difference in push/pull I would pay the few extra dollars for the H100 and add the H80 fans in the configuration. I will do some of that research in modifying my H80 and refitting new hoses but I was never comfortable making my own liquid cooling kit. I always felt it was something I would get wrong and get definite leaks in my case. One of the reasons I went with closed loop. Though I understand if I stuck with the H80 with my taped fix it just as well could do the same damage.

IDK if this is the right thread but I feel this question is directly related to the H series coolers. How safe is it to add voltage to my BE965 with H80 as my liquid cooler. Or any AMD processor for that matter. I have read mixed opinions on this but I am currently at 46C load and stable folding among other things and they advise the temp max on a BE965 should be 62C. My Vcore is currently at 1.600V and they suggest air cooling should stop at 1.550V. If I have so much room in temps with H80 as my water cooler do i have that much room left on my Vcore? Anyone?


----------



## trivium nate

i wanna get the h100 maybe


----------



## -RYknow

Looks like this would be a good thread to ask in. I'm wondering if it's worth swapping my ultra 120 true black (with gentle typhoons in push/pull) for the h60. I would use my gentle typhoons for the h60 as well. Just wondering if i would see an increase in cooling? I currently idle at 24c with an ambient of 22c. I'm running an i7-860 oc'd to 3.46 with a vcore of 1.18v and a vtt of 1.20.

I don't really want to tear my machine apart for nothing. Do you guys thing i will notice a difference?

-RYknow


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-RYknow*
> 
> Looks like this would be a good thread to ask in. I'm wondering if it's worth swapping my ultra 120 true black (with gentle typhoons in push/pull) for the h60. I would use my gentle typhoons for the h60 as well. Just wondering if i would see an increase in cooling? I currently idle at 24c with an ambient of 22c. I'm running an i7-860 oc'd to 3.46 with a vcore of 1.18v and a vtt of 1.20.
> 
> I don't really want to tear my machine apart for nothing. Do you guys thing i will notice a difference?
> 
> -RYknow


Temps would be comparable if not a tad better with the H60.

Your fans are ideal with this cooler and the H series loves push/pull.

I would suggest an intake configuation for the H60 to maximise the cooling potiental of the rad.

What are you load temps? idle temps really dont mean alot, unfortunately.


----------



## cravinmild

For those of you looking for another mod for the Corsair series coolers check out my gpu mod here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1086286/complete-build-log-zotac-560ti-corsair-h70

Works fantastic, is non destructive and work on any card ati or nvidia

Please add me to the mod log here if you feel so inclined


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> For those of you looking for another mod for the Corsair series coolers check out my gpu mod here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1086286/complete-build-log-zotac-560ti-corsair-h70
> 
> Works fantastic, is non destructive and work on any card ati or nvidia
> 
> Please add me to the mod log here if you feel so inclined


Whoa, you must be psychic









I was just trawling through the Nvidia cooling section and was looking at your post there. Im thinking of trying this out with my old GTX 470 and H-50 cooler. My only concern is cooling the VRam... They still have sinks on them from when i had the AXP cooler on them, Mabybe I can knock up some sort of auxillary fan.


----------



## cravinmild

would be a good idea but ive run my zotac 560ti without any cooling on any part of the pbc and had no issues with high voltage and overclocks but to be honest i never did get around to overclocking the vram so .......

Good to play it safe, my matrix still has the two 90mm fans blowing onto the pcb, i really wanted to retain the look of the orginal card, it was a feature i like about the Matrix.


----------



## StormXLR

Getting new set of fans







but Which fans are good to use on H70? Preferably red LEDs any idea?


----------



## Siegfried262

Hey guys,

Turns out my brand new H60 is missing it's Intel bracket.









Don't suppose any of you have a spare you'd be willing to let go?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormXLR*
> 
> Getting new set of fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but Which fans are good to use on H70? Preferably red LEDs any idea?


Ideally, AP 15s or 30s would be the go but they are 1) hard to find and 2) dont come in a red LED.

Have a think about the CM R4s. By all reports they do the job as advertised,

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_510&products_id=11128

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> would be a good idea but ive run my zotac 560ti without any cooling on any part of the pbc and had no issues with high voltage and overclocks but to be honest i never did get around to overclocking the vram so .......
> 
> Good to play it safe, my matrix still has the two 90mm fans blowing onto the pcb, i really wanted to retain the look of the orginal card, it was a feature i like about the Matrix.


I rarely OC the ram but rigging up an aux fan for the pwr circuits shouldnt be a problem. Thanks!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siegfried262*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Turns out my brand new H60 is missing it's Intel bracket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't suppose any of you have a spare you'd be willing to let go?


Contact you Corsair dealer and get one... clearly there was an error in packaging


----------



## -RYknow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> Temps would be comparable if not a tad better with the H60.
> Your fans are ideal with this cooler and the H series loves push/pull.
> I would suggest an intake configuation for the H60 to maximise the cooling potiental of the rad.
> What are you load temps? idle temps really dont mean alot, unfortunately.


My bad on not including my load temp! I thought I had put it in there. I've been tweaking my setup a bit. My current specs are:
3.62ghz OC
vcore- 1.21v
vtt- 1.2v
RAM- 1.51v

My ambient temp right now is roughly 19c. I have an idle temp of 20c. I just finished running prime95 for 20 hours and 9 min (no errors), and saw a load temp of 66c. This is with a Thermalright Ultra 120 Tru black, dual gentle typhoons in a push/pull, with a third gentle typhoon blowing directly onto the first fan with cool air from outside of the PC. I'm using a Lian-li A05nb (Love this case! Everyone should own one! haha)

So you think I would see better temps with the h60 then? Running the push/pull obviously. Do you think my idle temps will stay the same? Or would they increase? I would be using the h60 as in intake.

-RYknow


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-RYknow*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> Temps would be comparable if not a tad better with the H60.
> Your fans are ideal with this cooler and the H series loves push/pull.
> I would suggest an intake configuation for the H60 to maximise the cooling potiental of the rad.
> What are you load temps? idle temps really dont mean alot, unfortunately.
> 
> 
> 
> My bad on not including my load temp! I thought I had put it in there. I've been tweaking my setup a bit. My current specs are:
> 3.62ghz OC
> vcore- 1.21v
> vtt- 1.2v
> RAM- 1.51v
> 
> My ambient temp right now is roughly 19c. I have an idle temp of 20c. I just finished running prime95 for 20 hours and 9 min (no errors), and saw a load temp of 66c. This is with a Thermalright Ultra 120 Tru black, dual gentle typhoons in a push/pull, with a third gentle typhoon blowing directly onto the first fan with cool air from outside of the PC. I'm using a Lian-li A05nb (Love this case! Everyone should own one! haha)
> 
> So you think I would see better temps with the h60 then? Running the push/pull obviously. Do you think my idle temps will stay the same? Or would they increase? I would be using the h60 as in intake.
> 
> -RYknow
Click to expand...

Thats some pretty good temps right there









Tell me again why you want to change your current cooling setup?

Im not going to blow sunshine in your face, Its really hard to tell you what to expect because of the many variables involved.

Placement of the rad, case temps, ambients, Tim application etc. Every setup is going to be different, hence YMMV.

I would hazard a guess that your temps would be on par with your current setup. You may shave a few degrees off your current temps, you may not... The only true test is to get and run it.

Sorry I can be more helpful than that.


----------



## -RYknow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> Thats some pretty good temps right there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tell me again why you want to change your current cooling setup?
> Im not going to blow sunshine in your face, Its really hard to tell you what to expect because of the many variables involved.
> Placement of the rad, case temps, ambients, Tim application etc. Every setup is going to be different, hence YMMV.
> I would hazard a guess that your temps would be on par with your current setup. You may shave a few degrees off your current temps, you may not... The only true test is to get and run it.
> Sorry I can be more helpful than that.


HAHA! Thanks for your input. It's not so much that I WANT to change the setup. I received a gift card for Bestbuy, and with redeeming some reward zone coupons, I was able to pick the H60 up for $15 out of pocket. I couldn't pass up the price. I think what I'm going to do is use the H60 in the server I just built. It's a Phenom II x4 960t. I'm running stock cooling on that right now, so I think it would benefit from the h60 greatly! Thanks again for your help. I know it's impossible to give concrete answers with so many variables to account for!

-RYknow


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-RYknow*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> Thats some pretty good temps right there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tell me again why you want to change your current cooling setup?
> Im not going to blow sunshine in your face, Its really hard to tell you what to expect because of the many variables involved.
> Placement of the rad, case temps, ambients, Tim application etc. Every setup is going to be different, hence YMMV.
> I would hazard a guess that your temps would be on par with your current setup. You may shave a few degrees off your current temps, you may not... The only true test is to get and run it.
> Sorry I can be more helpful than that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HAHA! Thanks for your input. It's not so much that I WANT to change the setup. I received a gift card for Bestbuy, and with redeeming some reward zone coupons, I was able to pick the H60 up for $15 out of pocket. I couldn't pass up the price. I think what I'm going to do is use the H60 in the server I just built. It's a Phenom II x4 960t. I'm running stock cooling on that right now, so I think it would benefit from the h60 greatly! Thanks again for your help. I know it's impossible to give concrete answers with so many variables to account for!
> 
> -RYknow
Click to expand...

Oh, a different setup... not your sig rig









Yeah, you will see a great diffence in cooling over stock. You should be able to get a decent OC on that chip too with the H60.


----------



## -RYknow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> Oh, a different setup... not your sig rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, you will see a great diffence in cooling over stock. You should be able to get a decent OC on that chip too with the H60.


I was originally talking about my sig rig! After taking your input, I've decided to keep my sig rig just the way it is, and just use the H60 on my rackmount server.

Yeah, I hear that the 960t is a great OC'er (however...NOT unlockable for me...







Knew it wasn't guaranteed, but it would have been nice). Stock cooler is garbage though! I'll be interested to see how she performs under the H60. I need to mod my rack mount server case first though (h60 won't fit currently). That will be for a new thread at a later time. I'll be sure to report back my findings with the H60 and the 960t.

-RYknow


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-RYknow*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> Oh, a different setup... not your sig rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, you will see a great diffence in cooling over stock. You should be able to get a decent OC on that chip too with the H60.
> 
> 
> 
> I was originally talking about my sig rig! After taking your input, I've decided to keep my sig rig just the way it is, and just use the H60 on my rackmount server.
> 
> Yeah, I hear that the 960t is a great OC'er (however...NOT unlockable for me...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Knew it wasn't guaranteed, but it would have been nice). Stock cooler is garbage though! I'll be interested to see how she performs under the H60. I need to mod my rack mount server case first though (h60 won't fit currently). That will be for a new thread at a later time. I'll be sure to report back my findings with the H60 and the 960t.
> 
> -RYknow
Click to expand...

Well, good luck with that. The H series is pretty versitile and Im sure you will be able to do something with it.

Need any help with it, like you said, start a thread with pics and Im sure we can pull something together


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rudderz666*
> 
> can any 1 help i have the H70 with gental typhoons 1800rpm on and my temp are great 26c idle but today i desided to mod my case and had to move 1 case fan from were it was (typhoon1800) but i was thinking off adding this too my H70 as extra fan but wood it better as a extra push or pull or wood it just be makin lass room to work for no reason hope that makes sence lol thx


Don't use it as an extra fan. If you want to improve your cooling a little (very little really, one or two c) then gut one fan (remove the blades and hub) and use it as a shroud on the "push" side between the fan and the cooler. There's no point adding a third fan to an H80 push/pull setup.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> IDK if this is the right thread but I feel this question is directly related to the H series coolers. How safe is it to add voltage to my BE965 with H80 as my liquid cooler. Or any AMD processor for that matter. I have read mixed opinions on this but I am currently at 46C load and stable folding among other things and they advise the temp max on a BE965 should be 62C. My Vcore is currently at 1.600V and they suggest air cooling should stop at 1.550V. If I have so much room in temps with H80 as my water cooler do i have that much room left on my Vcore? Anyone?


I don't think you could cause any problems to your H80 (other than the hole) by increasing the voltage on your CPU. You're overclock will fail long before there's any H80 related damage. (long long before) (no, really, I mean LLLOOONNNGGG before) Just remember that the hotter it gets, the more the water in the cooler will expand. Since you have a hole in one of your hoses it's possible the pressure may be enough to rupture your electrical tape fix.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-RYknow*
> 
> Looks like this would be a good thread to ask in. I'm wondering if it's worth swapping my ultra 120 true black (with gentle typhoons in push/pull) for the h60. I would use my gentle typhoons for the h60 as well. Just wondering if i would see an increase in cooling? I currently idle at 24c with an ambient of 22c. I'm running an i7-860 oc'd to 3.46 with a vcore of 1.18v and a vtt of 1.20.
> 
> I don't really want to tear my machine apart for nothing. Do you guys thing i will notice a difference?
> 
> -RYknow


Personally I don't think you'll see much of a temp difference. The H60 is a great cooler, and can compete with high end air coolers. From what I can see, your cooler IS a high end air cooler. I think your cooler is pretty good already. If you do see a difference I don't think it will be too much. Your cooler gets pretty good reviews. I think you'd have to move to an H80 or H100 to see a significant difference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siegfried262*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Turns out my brand new H60 is missing it's Intel bracket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't suppose any of you have a spare you'd be willing to let go?


Just email or phone Corsair. They will send you a new bracket.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormXLR*
> 
> Getting new set of fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but Which fans are good to use on H70? Preferably red LEDs any idea?


You want good fans or fans with red LEDs? If you want good fans, Scythe Gentile Typhoons or Yate Loons, if red LEDs are more important, just pick out any old crap (heh heh).


----------



## rudderz666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Don't use it as an extra fan. If you want to improve your cooling a little (very little really, one or two c) then gut one fan (remove the blades and hub) and use it as a shroud on the "push" side between the fan and the cooler. There's no point adding a third fan to an H80 push/pull setup.
> I don't think you could cause any problems to your H80 (other than the hole) by increasing the voltage on your CPU. You're overclock will fail long before there's any H80 related damage. (long long before) (no, really, I mean LLLOOONNNGGG before) Just remember that the hotter it gets, the more the water in the cooler will expand. Since you have a hole in one of your hoses it's possible the pressure may be enough to rupture your electrical tape fix.
> Personally I don't think you'll see much of a temp difference. The H60 is a great cooler, and can compete with high end air coolers. From what I can see, your cooler IS a high end air cooler. I think your cooler is pretty good already. If you do see a difference I don't think it will be too much. Your cooler gets pretty good reviews. I think you'd have to move to an H80 or H100 to see a significant difference.
> Just email or phone Corsair. They will send you a new bracket.
> You want good fans or fans with red LEDs? If you want good fans, Scythe Gentile Typhoons or Yate Loons, if red LEDs are more important, just pick out any old crap (heh heh).


cheers dude for the heads up ill see wat i can do and have a mess around ill try somit ill sort a pic to see XD


----------



## Cmoney

So today I decided I would do my by-monthly cleaning of the inside of my PC; just the usual dusting and cleaning of my H70 radiator. During the process I decided to check my screws for my CPU block... and to my surprise, I was able to tighten them quite a bit before I got any resistance. To make a short story even shorter... my CPU temps dropped 10C







(this is almost a year after building this rig, lol)


----------



## YangerD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cmoney*
> 
> So today I decided I would do my by-monthly cleaning of the inside of my PC; just the usual dusting and cleaning of my H70 radiator. During the process I decided to check my screws for my CPU block... and to my surprise, I was able to tighten them quite a bit before I got any resistance. To make a short story even shorter... my CPU temps dropped 10C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (this is almost a year after building this rig, lol)


What kinda temps were you getting before? lol


----------



## Cmoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YangerD*
> 
> What kinda temps were you getting before? lol


I was idling close to 40C before @ 3.8GHz... now I am sitting at 30C with the exact same settings. I have had trouble in the past getting this chip (1090T sig rig) stable at 4GHz, but I might give it another crack now that my temps are down so much. I think my CPU block was mounted on just enough of an angle when I originally installed it that it felt like it was tight, and once I stood the tower up it probably loosened a little. The twist on design wasn't exactly my friend when installing this cooler, lol. I always attributed the mediocre temps to the closed loop design, but I have new found respect for the H70. Inexplicably my NB temps are down significantly as well







; and it even gave me a "NEW CPU INSTALLED" message when I first booted up (which scared the hell out of me).


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cmoney*
> 
> So today I decided I would do my by-monthly cleaning of the inside of my PC; just the usual dusting and cleaning of my H70 radiator. During the process I decided to check my screws for my CPU block... and to my surprise, I was able to tighten them quite a bit before I got any resistance. To make a short story even shorter... my CPU temps dropped 10C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (this is almost a year after building this rig, lol)


Thats a good cautionary tale for all us H-series owners.

Thanks for sharing this


----------



## Mergatroid

That's a great story. Happy you've got it working so well now. Let us know how your oc works out.


----------



## .theMetal

thats crazy stuff, I know when i installed my 50 I cranked down the screws fairly tight (I thought) then decide to tinker more and ended up checking them and was able to crank them down a few more turns, and dropped a few degrees. So crank those things down but down go over board, I can see something snapping


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> thats crazy stuff, I know when i installed my 50 I cranked down the screws fairly tight (I thought) then decide to tinker more and ended up checking them and was able to crank them down a few more turns, and dropped a few degrees. So crank those things down but down go over board, I can see something snapping


You definitely want to screw them in as hard as you can to the point before you start bending the board.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cmoney*
> 
> I was idling close to 40C before @ 3.8GHz... now I am sitting at 30C with the exact same settings. I have had trouble in the past getting this chip (1090T sig rig) stable at 4GHz, but I might give it another crack now that my temps are down so much. I think my CPU block was mounted on just enough of an angle when I originally installed it that it felt like it was tight, and once I stood the tower up it probably loosened a little. The twist on design wasn't exactly my friend when installing this cooler, lol. I always attributed the mediocre temps to the closed loop design, but I have new found respect for the H70. Inexplicably my NB temps are down significantly as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ; and it even gave me a "NEW CPU INSTALLED" message when I first booted up (which scared the hell out of me).


This is exactly what I have been telling people (aside from screwing in the corners a little a time instead of one corner at a time)! I also had one time where my pump kept buzzing every 3-5 seconds and it was fixed by tightening one corner that wasn't screwed in as tightly as the other corners.


----------



## Cmoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> This is exactly what I have been telling people (aside from screwing in the corners a little a time instead of one corner at a time)! I also had one time where my pump kept buzzing every 3-5 seconds and it was fixed by tightening one corner that wasn't screwed in as tightly as the other corners.


Yea I was really surprised at how loose it was when I went to tighten it because I am very methodical and tedious when it comes to system builds... or so I thought LOL

At least it wasn't as bad as my first ever PC build about 10 years ago... let's just say I forgot the motherboard standoffs







We live and we learn


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> You definitely want to screw them in as hard as you can to the point before you start bending the board.


Yup learned it first hand. In fact, I'm going to jump back in this evening and check to see if they are all still as tight as possible just because I'm ocd. My phenII x4 is running at 4.0 and it idles at 30c and after hours of BF3 it still won't get above 47c.

Its also good to cross tighten them (like you would lug nuts on a tire). Get them all started and snug, then tighten corner to corner, then corner to corner until super tight.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> You definitely want to screw them in as hard as you can to the point before you start bending the board.


You have to be careful say things like "as hard as you can". I know what you mean, but "screw them in as hard as you can" and "computers" don't really belong in the same subject.

If I screwed those screws in "as hard as I can" that rear bracket, or the screws, or the plastic bits would end up broken.

All we need is some newb to come along and read you comment, crank the screws and break his new H50 or H70.

For any newbies reading this, make the screws tight, wiggle the block and make sure it does not move. Please don't crank them "as hard as you can". If you want to make sure it's seated really well, just try and shine a flashlight between the block and the CPU. If you can see light, and the screws seem tight, disassemble the unit and try reseating it. Perhaps try turning the block by 90°. Turning the block can work great on the coolers with square blocks as opposed to the round blocks of the H50 and H70. The square blocks are large enough that they can hit capacitors that may be mounted beside the CPU socket preventing the block from mounting flush with the CPU. Turning the block 90° can rectify this.

Experienced users like you guys would be familiar with how much pressure is too much. I know a guy who cranks all the screws on his computer all the time and he's constantly stripping screws, screw holes and breaking things. No matter how much I try and help him he won't listen to reason. Just be careful with the screws, especially if plastic is involved in any way.


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I don't think you could cause any problems to your H80 (other than the hole) by increasing the voltage on your CPU. You're overclock will fail long before there's any H80 related damage. (long long before) (no, really, I mean LLLOOONNNGGG before) Just remember that the hotter it gets, the more the water in the cooler will expand. Since you have a hole in one of your hoses it's possible the pressure may be enough to rupture your electrical tape fix.


Thanks for the info about the H80. I was thinking the H80 was indestructable so thank you for clearing that up for me but I think you misunderstood my question. I was more concerned about how safe my Phenom II 965 was with applying much needed voltage to get the best overclock. Currently, I am at 4.201 Ghz with the vcore at 1.6v. They recommend vcore max 1.55v for air cooling. with a load temp of 62C. I am at load 52C and I am not even at max settings on the cooler. I am in the 2nd "balanced" mode. I know if I asked the Phenom II 9x5 overclock club they would say that the Corsair H series coolers are not any better than air coolers but I think my temps say differently and I would hope I got the support of the H series club that would probably agree with me just how powerful these coolers are. So I am asking anyone here with experience with the H series coolers and Phenom II cpu's if higher voltages are safe with these coolers and what a recommended max vcore might be. For both max overclocking and 24/7 overclock. Thanks in advance.

BTW I am ordering a replacement H80 so leaks should not be an issue. I might toy around with some modding on the H80 I am replacing.


----------



## Kokin

Ah very good points Mergatroid. I often forget details like that since you're right about me already used to applying the right amount of pressure, though I've learned from a lot of stripping and bending (no sexual innuendos intended







) of screws and boards from when I first started building my rig.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Thanks for the info about the H80. I was thinking the H80 was indestructable so thank you for clearing that up for me but I think you misunderstood my question. I was more concerned about how safe my Phenom II 965 was with applying much needed voltage to get the best overclock. Currently, I am at 4.201 Ghz with the vcore at 1.6v. They recommend vcore max 1.55v for air cooling. with a load temp of 62C. I am at load 52C and I am not even at max settings on the cooler. I am in the 2nd "balanced" mode. I know if I asked the Phenom II 9x5 overclock club they would say that the Corsair H series coolers are not any better than air coolers but I think my temps say differently and I would hope I got the support of the H series club that would probably agree with me just how powerful these coolers are. So I am asking anyone here with experience with the H series coolers and Phenom II cpu's if higher voltages are safe with these coolers and what a recommended max vcore might be. For both max overclocking and 24/7 overclock. Thanks in advance.
> BTW I am ordering a replacement H80 so leaks should not be an issue. I might toy around with some modding on the H80 I am replacing.


Careful with that voltage. Your motherboard's VRMs take a big toll when you pass the 1.5v-1.55v range and could be slowly degrading and could eventually fry or explode. Asus makes decent motherboard VRMs, but for my board (despite being one of the top of the line of the 700 series) I ended up frying my VRMs at 1.6v and I had to RMA my board. I'd suggest going down to the 1.45v-1.5v range if you want to extend the lifetime of your board. Losing 100-200mhz of performance isn't worth the hassle of replacing a dead motherboard.


----------



## xulos

Hy guys. Can anyone tell me what is direction of water flow in h50 pump ? Which barb is for intake and which for out? I need to know on which barb i will fit res and on which rad ? Ty


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Thanks for the info about the H80. I was thinking the H80 was indestructable so thank you for clearing that up for me but I think you misunderstood my question. I was more concerned about how safe my Phenom II 965 was with applying much needed voltage to get the best overclock. Currently, I am at 4.201 Ghz with the vcore at 1.6v. They recommend vcore max 1.55v for air cooling. with a load temp of 62C. I am at load 52C and I am not even at max settings on the cooler. I am in the 2nd "balanced" mode. I know if I asked the Phenom II 9x5 overclock club they would say that the Corsair H series coolers are not any better than air coolers but I think my temps say differently and I would hope I got the support of the H series club that would probably agree with me just how powerful these coolers are. So I am asking anyone here with experience with the H series coolers and Phenom II cpu's if higher voltages are safe with these coolers and what a recommended max vcore might be. For both max overclocking and 24/7 overclock. Thanks in advance.
> BTW I am ordering a replacement H80 so leaks should not be an issue. I might toy around with some modding on the H80 I am replacing.


If you are 10c under max temp at full load then I would say your H80 was working pretty darned good. You even have room to increase your fan speed still. That's the point of a good cooler, right? To keep the temp lower so you can increase the voltage and get a higher clock. Your cooler is performing better than the "air cooler" scenario your club buddies are referring to. If they are saying that it is ok to turn the voltage up if you are using a different cooler (like full water) then you're fine because your already beating their 62c requirement for a safe temp.

The type of cooler doesn't matter. What matters is how it performs. Your H80 is doing a great job keeping your load temp relatively low at your higher voltage and clock.

On the other hand, if they are saying the max voltage you should have with ANY cooler is 1.55V, then if I was you I would research maximum safe voltages for your cpu using Google. Try and find confirmation. If you do, I would recommend backing your voltage off to the recommended max. Ask your club buddies if they can show you where you can go to confirm their recommendations.


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Careful with that voltage. Your motherboard's VRMs take a big toll when you pass the 1.5v-1.55v range and could be slowly degrading and could eventually fry or explode. Asus makes decent motherboard VRMs, but for my board (despite being one of the top of the line of the 700 series) I ended up frying my VRMs at 1.6v and I had to RMA my board. I'd suggest going down to the 1.45v-1.5v range if you want to extend the lifetime of your board. Losing 100-200mhz of performance isn't worth the hassle of replacing a dead motherboard.


Thanks Kokin. That was just the info I was looking for. I immediately did some research on my motherboard and found the info I needed right away in the owners manual. "Over 5,000 hours VRM, over 57 years' operation lifespan at 65C." How reliable is that? I assume that is either motherboard or cpu temp which I am at 35C and 47C respectfully. Is my motherboard still threatened at that temp? Or does it still come down to a voltage thing? I mean if I shortened the lifespan to half I would still be at 28 years. Probably less of course. But in a year or two I would be upgrading my motherboard and processor anyway. I might be totally off. That is just the logic I have from the info I got from you and the motherboard manual.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> If you are 10c under max temp at full load then I would say your H80 was working pretty darned good. You even have room to increase your fan speed still. That's the point of a good cooler, right? To keep the temp lower so you can increase the voltage and get a higher clock. Your cooler is performing better than the "air cooler" scenario your club buddies are referring to. If they are saying that it is ok to turn the voltage up if you are using a different cooler (like full water) then you're fine because your already beating their 62c requirement for a safe temp.
> The type of cooler doesn't matter. What matters is how it performs. Your H80 is doing a great job keeping your load temp relatively low at your higher voltage and clock.
> On the other hand, if they are saying the max voltage you should have with ANY cooler is 1.55V, then if I was you I would research maximum safe voltages for your cpu using Google. Try and find confirmation. If you do, I would recommend backing your voltage off to the recommended max. Ask your club buddies if they can show you where you can go to confirm their recommendations.


Just what I was hoping to hear. I am actually folding at 47C at 4.2GHz. If I can keep that up I will be rockin' and rollin'. But Kokin of course gave me another worry about the life of my mother board so I need to do some further research on the safety of my VRM and though googling hasn't given me a definite answer yet I will continue to look for an over all max vcore. The most i have is from AMD which is old news but they suggest 1.35-1.50V for air cooling and jump to 1.65-1.85V for LN2 cooling. Nothing referenced for water cooling so I though anything in between would be acceptable for water cooling. Any comments on what I found?


----------



## Mergatroid

You have a tough decision there. It's never nice to go looking for info you need and the result of your search is not definitive.

IMO, I think your current setup (voltage, temp, clock and usage) seems OK. Again, because of the LN2 cooling recommendation from AMD it looks to me like they are saying their board can handle the voltage. I have not read what you have, but it I wouldn't think they are referring to using LN on the mobo, just the cpu.

I am still of the opinion your current setup is ok, but just remember I'm not a big authority on overclocking or anything. I can only look at the evidence presented and form what I think is a reasonable opinion based on my past experience and education.

Voltage is basically an electrical pressure or force (often referred to as EMF, or Electro Motive Force). The greater the force the the higher the component stress, the more quickly the components are likely to wear. So, I suppose heat is not the only issue for premature failure of components. Keeping that in mind I would think the voltage regulators would be better at handling higher voltage than the cpu would be.

In this case, the only way to be 100% sure is to find the number off of one of the regulators, get the datasheet and see what voltages they are rated for. If your voltage is within their rating then I wouldn't worry about the mobo. Personally, I think you're fine where you're set now.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Careful with that voltage. Your motherboard's VRMs take a big toll when you pass the 1.5v-1.55v range and could be slowly degrading and could eventually fry or explode. Asus makes decent motherboard VRMs, but for my board (despite being one of the top of the line of the 700 series) I ended up frying my VRMs at 1.6v and I had to RMA my board. I'd suggest going down to the 1.45v-1.5v range if you want to extend the lifetime of your board. Losing 100-200mhz of performance isn't worth the hassle of replacing a dead motherboard.


Kokin is "DEAD ON RIGHT" here ... been down that road also







... I bet your motherboard goes before your CPU ...
Comparing Apples vs Oranges --> Stock manufacturers specs/lifespans vs MAX overclocks/volts FOR 24/7 operation??? ... Yikes, I hope you don't plan on selling those components in the future without full disclosure


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xulos*
> 
> Hy guys. Can anyone tell me what is direction of water flow in h50 pump ? Which barb is for intake and which for out? I need to know on which barb i will fit res and on which rad ? Ty


Im not sure I can remember that one but if you have a look at the mod project list on the front page of this thread, one of them should be able to tell you.


----------



## Kokin

@aas88keyz: To be honest, I think you're fine. I just wanted to warn you as many people in OCN have experienced VRM failure whenever they went past the 1.5v threshold or tried overclocking on motherboards with low quality VRMs. If you're upgrading in the next year or two, then it shouldn't matter at all. I always thought I would upgrade my CPU+mobo within the first two years of my build, but I'm already close to 2.5 years and I still see no reason to upgrade yet. The only thing I upgrade is my GPU setup, but I mostly just browse or play games, though I do occasionally fold (just not [email protected]







).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xulos*
> 
> Hy guys. Can anyone tell me what is direction of water flow in h50 pump ? Which barb is for intake and which for out? I need to know on which barb i will fit res and on which rad ? Ty


From what I'm feeling from the tubes, there's a lot of pressure/movement on the tube that's on the left side of the pump while there is almost no pressure/movement on the right side. I would hazard a guess that the left is out while the right side is in. See below for my setup (excuse the wiring, I'm currently waiting for my 5870s to arrive and I have been moving my hard drives around to make them fit).


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xulos*
> 
> Hy guys. Can anyone tell me what is direction of water flow in h50 pump ? Which barb is for intake and which for out? I need to know on which barb i will fit res and on which rad ? Ty


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> Im not sure I can remember that one but if you have a look at the mod project list on the front page of this thread, one of them should be able to tell you.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> my GPU setup, but I mostly just browse or play games, though I do occasionally fold (just not [email protected]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> From what I'm feeling from the tubes, there's a lot of pressure/movement on the tube that's on the left side of the pump while there is almost no pressure/movement on the right side. I would hazard a guess that the left is out while the right side is in. See below for my setup (excuse the wiring, I'm currently waiting for my 5870s to arrive and I have been moving my hard drives around to make them fit).


Here ya go... just had to seach the mod list.

Courtesy of MrLink's mod

http://www.overclock.net/t/754545/ultimate-h50-mod-guide-for-noobs


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> Here ya go... just had to seach the mod list.
> Courtesy of MrLink's mod
> http://www.overclock.net/t/754545/ultimate-h50-mod-guide-for-noobs


Good job on locating it Sethy666. I totally forgot to look there, but I'm glad my guess was correct.


----------



## jbobb

Just put in my H80 yesterday. Thought I would join the club. So far so good.


----------



## Mergatroid

Lol.

I guess closed loop water coolers are mainstream now. Check this out:

http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX36981

If it's good enough for Intel......


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Lol.
> I guess closed loop water coolers are mainstream now. Check this out:
> http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX36981
> If it's good enough for Intel......


No love for the venerable 775 platform with those coolers









Guess Ill be sticking with Corsair for a while yet


----------



## Mergatroid

That cooler looks like it has the H70 block. I would suppose it is a pretty good cooler, but with a thicker rad like that I would prefer two fans. I do like the blue fan on it though. It reminds me of the newer H80/H100 fans only it also has blue LEDs. I wouldn't mind two of them for the H100.

Sigh, I really miss my c2q 775 build. I loved having the H100 as push/pull. Too bad I couldn't find a socket 1155 board with the memory mounted lower.


----------



## Erick Silver

OK I have just bought a Corsair H60 from another forum member and have a question that has probably been answered already. But seeing that the thread has almost 2000 pages I don't feel that its inappropriate to ask it.

Are the Cooler Master 120mm Sickleflow Fans adequate for a Push Pull configuration?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> OK I have just bought a Corsair H60 from another forum member and have a question that has probably been answered already. But seeing that the thread has almost 2000 pages I don't feel that its inappropriate to ask it.
> Are the Cooler Master 120mm Sickleflow Fans adequate for a Push Pull configuration?


Sickle flow, not so much. Rather low CFM. You could get away with it but there is better out there...

eg GT AP15 or 30s or even CM R4's arent that bad either


----------



## Erick Silver

The Sickleflows are the R4.


----------



## Sethy666

No they are not...









SickleFlow Fan 2000rpm pushes 69.69CFM at 19dBA.

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_510&products_id=15760

*This is the R4-L2R-20CK-GP, not the Sickleflow R4-L2R-20AC-GP. 90CFM at only 19dBA (2000rpm).

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_510&products_id=8022

There was / is alot of confusion around how CM serialise their fans... the R4s are a good example.


----------



## Erick Silver

OK why the hell would they do that? Market a CM R4 Sickleflow at about 70cfm AND a CM R4 Sickleflow 90cfm?? Morons.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> OK why the hell would they do that? Market a CM R4 Sickleflow at about 70cfm AND a CM R4 Sickleflow 90cfm?? Morons.


Who knows...

The store I linked those fans from fell into the same trap. I ended up emailing their marketting people to advise of the difference, they didnt even realise.. hence the warning on the web page.


----------



## Erick Silver

yeah you linked me a Australian website. I have not been able to find those 90cfm fans on a US based website as of yet.

Can anyone help with that?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> yeah you linked me a Australian website. I have not been able to find those 90cfm fans on a US based website as of yet.
> Can anyone help with that?


They are scarce, arent they....


----------



## Erick Silver

Thanks! The Amazon link looks to have the Red ones. Everyone else has the blue one. They fail! LOL


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Thanks! The Amazon link looks to have the Red ones. Everyone else has the blue one. They fail! LOL


Enjoy


----------



## Mergatroid

70 cfm is fine. For a rad, you're not looking for cfm, you're looking for static pressure, especially for the push fan.

The ap15 is only 57.7 CFM (98M3/h) at 1850 RPM. The funny thing about the gts is that people swear up and down how good they are on a rad, and I'm not doubting them. However, I have never seen static pressure listed anywhere for the gt fans. This seems like a HUGE oversite because, personally, if I don't see static pressure listed for a fan I'm considering for a rad cooler, I usually skip it.

The red sickle flow fans that were linked to here:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> The Sickleflows are the R4.


actually have a better cfm than the gts have. They also have a static pressure of 2.94 mm/H2O. For comparison, the stock H100 fans have 1.6mm/H20 at low speed, and 7.7mm/H20 at maximum speed (2500 RPM).

So, the sickle flow (red) is at the lower end of the scale for static pressure and likely would not make a very good rad fan. It basically provides about double the static pressure as the stock 100 fan when it's turned down to low RPMs. The difference is the sickle flow would be running at full speed.

However, if you were to use the stock H60 fan as a push fan, you could use the sickle flow as a pull fan. Static pressure is not as important for the pull fan as it is for the push fan (source, Corsair George). The H60 fan is not a bad fan (unfortunately, Corsair does not list the static pressure for the H60 fan). However, you may be better off to get a gt and use it as the push fan, and if you're looking for red LEDs you could use the sickle flow fan as the pull fan.

If you're willing to set up the H60 as Corsair recommends, then it will be intake (not exhaust). So, the push fan (ap15) would be against the chassis, then the rad, and then the sickle flow fan allowing you to see the LEDs. If, however, you want to use your H60 as exhaust, you are going to have to find a red LED fan (if that's what you're looking for) with a better static pressure.
I still don't understand why Scythe does not list the static pressure of the GT AP15s. Hell, they don't even list the static pressure for their newer high speed GTs:

http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/Case%20fan/001/Scytheusa-ProductsgentleCaseFan001index.html

Although the description says they generate high pressure, they don't list it.

Here is a link to a test of some really great rad fans, but I don't think they bothered testing any LED fan as, historically, fans with LEDs in them have been good case fans but not good rad fans. There may be some exceptions to this, but you're going to have to look for them. Note, in the following test they were more interested in performance/noise, and not just pure performance. You can, however, find the best performing fans regardless of noise by clicking the links and checking the findings.

http://www.overclock.net/t/859483/round-6-fan-testing-working-thread

For example: (quote from link above)

"CONCLUSION SO FAR

I think from a noise level only perspective...most fans (90%) perform pretty much the same per CFM level. Supposedly it takes 3dbA for most humans to barely perceive a noise level change, and that's about the spread I have found for most fans with a few exceptions. I'll list out some of my favorites below:

The Scythe Gentle Typhoon Series - 1000-1800 Medium Speed is dominating in CFM/dbA ratio. At $15-20 it's not the cheapest, but a real amazing fan on a radiator:"

As you can see from this, they are talking about noise per CFM, and the GTs win because they are so quiet. This does not mean they have the best static pressure nor the best cfm. I would recommend reading some of the findings for some of the fans you may be interested in.

And, no, I don't really know why I went to all the trouble to explain this in this detail considering, in three pages there will be someone else asking the exact same question. I think I'll bookmark this and start linking to it.


----------



## Erick Silver

Well then. Since the Fans Doc in the OP will not let me edit it i will post the fans I will be purchasing for my H60 here.

Prolimatech PRO-RV12LED 120mm Red LED Case Fan


----------



## Reaper2794

Hey guys, so I bought an H60 and I'm gonna install it within a few weeks.

I have an NZXT Phantom, and I wanna do a push-pull setup with the 120mm exhaust fan

Will the NZXT fan go along fine with the stock Corsair fan?


----------



## Erick Silver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794*
> 
> Hey guys, so I bought an H60 and I'm gonna install it within a few weeks.
> I have an NZXT Phantom, and I wanna do a push-pull setup with the 120mm exhaust fan
> Will the NZXT fan go along fine with the stock Corsair fan?


Make sure that they are at about the same CFM and you should be okay, theoretically.


----------



## Erick Silver

I see you lurkin' Sethy....


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794*
> 
> Hey guys, so I bought an H60 and I'm gonna install it within a few weeks.
> I have an NZXT Phantom, and I wanna do a push-pull setup with the 120mm exhaust fan
> Will the NZXT fan go along fine with the stock Corsair fan?


Use the NZXT fan as the pull fan. The H60 fan likely has better static pressure and should therefor be used as the push fan (source Corsair George).

Matching the CFM is not as important because you will not get the full CFM from the push fan anyway since it has to push that air through a rad. When manufactures rate the CFM of a fan, it is without any rad blocking the fan. The most important spec for a rad fan is the static pressure.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> I see you lurkin' Sethy....


It's my way...









I usuallly jump in and out of threads as new posts come up.

So, your going to go with the Prolimatech? Thats should work nicely. Some feedback would be appreciated when you get them installed please.


----------



## Erick Silver

Definately will be giving feedback including pics of temps with my Xiggy DK before the change to the H60, then with the H60 and its stock fan, then as soon as I have my next paycheck I will get the fans and get temps then too. That or I will just wait to install it all until I get the fans.

Yeah right!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Definately will be giving feedback including pics of temps with my Xiggy DK before the change to the H60, then with the H60 and its stock fan, then as soon as I have my next paycheck I will get the fans and get temps then too. That or I will just wait to install it all until I get the fans.
> *Yeah right*!


Excellent









"Yeah, right"... what are you referring too?


----------



## Erick Silver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> Excellent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Yeah, right"... what are you referring too?


Waiting to install the H60 until the new fans I won't be able to order until the end of the month showed up probably delivered right around the 3rd or 4th of next month.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Waiting to install the H60 until the new fans I won't be able to order until the end of the month showed up probably delivered right around the 3rd or 4th of next month.


ohhh.


----------



## Reaper2794

Hey guys! I need some gentle typhoons for my H60

I would like to trade my NZXT WINDOWED Side Panel. It is BRAND NEW, untouched, simply opened the box to confirm that it is a WHITE side panel

It is WINDOWED, so you can attach it to your Phantom and see inside your case

AND I have an ASUS wireless adapter card, worth $25-30 also for trade/sale, so please do hit me up

I already have one installed on my case, and have another Id like to trade

I am in need of:

2 x Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP15s
2 x Bitfenix Spectre 120mm BLUE LED fan
1 x Bitfenix Spectre 140mm BLUE LED fan

I can also give away 3 NZXT 120mm stock fans if you'd like, as well as a STOCK side panel too. You guys can make an offer in exchange for the side panel, we can negotiate something.

If you guys have other goodies you'd be willing to trade for my stuff, please hit me up via PM, I'm looking for cool peripherals, gadgets, etc for my setup, so please let me know what you're willing to trade.

Here are some pics:


----------



## Mergatroid

But why are you posting that in the Hydro club? Shouldn't you be posting that in the "for sale" thread? Of course, you have no rep so you may not be able to sell anything.

I would suggest you go to the "phantom club" if there is one.


----------



## Reaper2794

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> But why are you posting that in the Hydro club? Shouldn't you be posting that in the "for sale" thread? Of course, you have no rep so you may not be able to sell anything.
> I would suggest you go to the "phantom club" if there is one.


Ive posted it there

I cant make a FS/FT thread, I am on OCN regularly but somewhat new

and it doesn't hurt to post here


----------



## Erick Silver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794*
> 
> Ive posted it there
> I cant make a FS/FT thread, I am on OCN regularly but somewhat new
> and it doesn't hurt to post here


No it doesn't hurt. But in all honesty this is a water cooling thread. Not a case thread. you may have better luck in the Case Forum part of the website.


----------



## Sethy666

I guess he might be after the Scythe GTs for his H60... its a long bow to pull but yeah, wrong thread.


----------



## Reaper2794

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> I guess he might be after the Scythe GTs for his H60... its a long bow to pull but yeah, wrong thread.


I want the typhoons specifically for my h60

so yes


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794*
> 
> I want the typhoons specifically for my h60
> so yes


If thats the case (pardon the pun), can you pls place that request at the beginning of your post, so everyone knows what is going on. Otherwise a mod may just delete you post (thinking its in the wrong thread)


----------



## Reaper2794

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> If thats the case (pardon the pun), can you pls place that request at the beginning of your post, so everyone knows what is going on. Otherwise a mod may just delete you post (thinking its in the wrong thread)


done

btw, what kinda screws do i need to add an additional fan onto the h60??


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794*
> 
> done
> btw, what kinda screws do i need to add an additional fan onto the h60??


6/32 x 1 1/4" (1.25")


----------



## Reaper2794

and I need 4 of those, correct?

its gonna be push pull, so i believe 4 come with corsair fan, and i need another 4?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794*
> 
> and I need 4 of those, correct?
> its gonna be push pull, so i believe 4 come with corsair fan, and i need another 4?


Technically yes. I've seen people use 2 screws on each fan before on opposite corners. I got a pack of 4 screws for about a buck at Home Depot, so you can find them in any hardware/hobby store. You can buy either aluminum or iron-based (for magnetic screwdrivers) screws. Just post again if you have any more questions.


----------



## rudderz666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794*
> 
> and I need 4 of those, correct?
> its gonna be push pull, so i believe 4 come with corsair fan, and i need another 4?


iv used 2 screws in to fans since iv had my H70 its been fine no problems even changed the fans over to with same screws and its fine


----------



## Erick Silver

OKay. I am irritated. So I am waiting on the H60 I bought from and OCN member. He shipped it via UPS. The followoing pic is the travel map of the destinational info I have received. F being the final destination where the package is supposed to be delivered.



Why would they take it further away from me to deliver it when there is a major UPS Hub in Chicago area? This makes no sense and is extremely inefficient.


----------



## xulos

Mine H50 mod (made it today) :





Custom made reservoir with tubes for VW fuel


----------



## Mergatroid

Sweet. Did you see any temp changes?


----------



## Erick Silver

My H60 was delivered to my job at noon.







I can't wait to get it this afternoon when I go to work!







And when I get home I get to install it!!


----------



## Boomstick68

Add me. I picked one up at BestBuy today just on a whim. Not overly impressed with results but then this thing is tiny. It may go back for a Swiftech kit.


----------



## [email protected]

Why isn't your cable management taken care of? You got a friggin hole back there and you never bothered to use it? Wow fail.


----------



## Boomstick68

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Why isn't your cable management taken care of? You got a friggin hole back there and you never bothered to use it? Wow fail.


Not much room for cable management. If I ran the main 24 pin behind the motherboard the panel won't go on. But next time I'll make sure to hide my cables better, just for you.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boomstick68*
> 
> Not much room for cable management. If I ran the main 24 pin behind the motherboard the panel won't go on.:


Guess that's why they call it the Rosewell *"Challenger"* ...







Still looks pretty nice to me!

I really like my H100, never have to worry about temps, AND the main reason I switched from the Noctua has already paid off *BIG TIME* for me being able to easily get to my ram! If interested go here ...

http://gskill.us/forum/showthread.php?t=10062

and read thread title ...

*"Quest to stabilize 2133 w/ASRock Z68 Extreme 4 Gen 3"*

But then again I wouldn't be trying so many different ram kits for OC'ing fun if I didn't have an H100


----------



## xulos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Sweet. Did you see any temp changes?


I5 2500k @ 4.2 1.27 v , max temp in bf3 : 55 C







enough for me









btw can i join the club ?


----------



## Erick Silver

Hey question. Has anyone here in the club used the (UN)Designs 5.25" Bay Rad Bracket Set in their HAF 922 for a H Series Cooling unit? Does it work with the toolless design features?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xulos*
> 
> I5 2500k @ 4.2 1.27 v , max temp in bf3 : 55 C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> enough for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw can i join the club ?


You can add yourself if you go to the first post.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Hey question. Has anyone here in the club used the (UN)Designs 5.25" Bay Rad Bracket Set in their HAF 922 for a H Series Cooling unit? Does it work with the toolless design features?


I'm not sure if it works with toolless(might be more inconvenient or insecure), though if your rad and bracket reaches 5.25" it should work. If anything, you could test it out with the toolless and if it doesn't work, just take out the toolless part and use screws.


----------



## Erick Silver

I want to make sure that its gonna work so that I don't spend money on something that I won't be able to use. I am not at home right now so I can't look but does anyone have pics of the 922 5.25" Drive bays without the tooless baubles on it?


----------



## solheimhltv




----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xulos*
> 
> I5 2500k @ 4.2 1.27 v , max temp in bf3 : 55 C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> enough for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw can i join the club ?


But what was the change in temp from before your mod to after?


----------



## xulos

Before update , 63 c in BF3 but CM excalibur @ 12 volts and 2000 rpm. Now 55 C under excalibur @ 7volts. If you ask me its a huge progress


----------



## Erick Silver

Before H60 Upgrade: 40*c on my Xiggy DK full folding load at stock. After H60 upgrade 35*c Full folding load at stock. Thats a 5*c drop.


----------



## preston.murrell

how do yall get the super cold temps i have a h50 push pull and i cant get it to take my i3 below 35c i mean i never go over 60c overclocked to 3.4 on 1.2vcore and ambient temps at 75F running prime 95 blend but i feel as if i should be able to get colder that 35-38 idle temps


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *preston.murrell*
> 
> how do yall get the super cold temps i have a h50 push pull and i cant get it to take my i3 below 35c i mean i never go over 60c overclocked to 3.4 on 1.2vcore and ambient temps at 75F running prime 95 blend but i feel as if i should be able to get colder that 35-38 idle temps


unfortunately that is all you will get out of that cooler, unless you modify it or just submerge the supplied radiator in ice water


----------



## [email protected]

Or maybe you didn't properly seat the heatsink good enough or applied thermal or did you use the stock thermal and tried to seat it right? Back to my questions here. Have any idea how long these coolers can last? I always wondered myself if i should get a new one if warranty expires? Worth it?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> ~snip~ Back to my questions here. Have any idea how long these coolers can last? I always wondered myself if i should get a new one if warranty expires? Worth it?


All things being equal, they should last well after the warranty expires. I got my H50 when they first came out and then upgraded to a H100 when they came out... whats that? About 2.5 years?

It was going strong up untill I removed it for the upgrade. Im saving the H50 for a GPU mod, when I ever get around to it.


----------



## Erick Silver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *preston.murrell*
> 
> how do yall get the super cold temps i have a h50 push pull and i cant get it to take my i3 below 35c i mean i never go over 60c overclocked to 3.4 on 1.2vcore and ambient temps at 75F running prime 95 blend but i feel as if i should be able to get colder that 35-38 idle temps


Do you have the fans set to intake or exhaust? If set to exhaust switch them to intake.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *preston.murrell*
> 
> how do yall get the super cold temps i have a h50 push pull and i cant get it to take my i3 below 35c i mean i never go over 60c overclocked to 3.4 on 1.2vcore and ambient temps at 75F running prime 95 blend but i feel as if i should be able to get colder that 35-38 idle temps


Intel chips typically run hotter at idle than AMD chips, but it's really all about load temps. I know AMD chips tend to be inaccurate when their idle temps dip below 20-25°C.


----------



## rudderz666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *preston.murrell*
> 
> how do yall get the super cold temps i have a h50 push pull and i cant get it to take my i3 below 35c i mean i never go over 60c overclocked to 3.4 on 1.2vcore and ambient temps at 75F running prime 95 blend but i feel as if i should be able to get colder that 35-38 idle temps


mines bwt the same it all depends on the temp in the room that your using ya pc in my H70 dosent go over 60c or below 30c quad core (core 0 and core 1 like to go lower for some reason thou 26c) dnt think its a prob unless n e 1 thinks other wise just thouz id share that for ya...o yer that on push/pull on exhaust setup


----------



## rudderz666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *preston.murrell*
> 
> how do yall get the super cold temps i have a h50 push pull and i cant get it to take my i3 below 35c i mean i never go over 60c overclocked to 3.4 on 1.2vcore and ambient temps at 75F running prime 95 blend but i feel as if i should be able to get colder that 35-38 idle temps


mines bwt the same it all depends on the temp in the room that your using ya pc in my H70 dosent go over 60c or below 30c quad core (core 0 and core 1 like to go lower for some reason thou 26c) dnt think its a prob unless n e 1 thinks other wise just thouz id share that for ya...o yer that on push/pull on exhaust setup


----------



## rudderz666

grrrr double sorry


----------



## Reaper2794

Anyone know how I can configure my Corsair H60 fan to control itself based on temperature, cause it runs at 100% every time I boot my computer

SpeedFan is a **** program so I don't wanna use that junk


----------



## rudderz666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794*
> 
> Anyone know how I can configure my Corsair H60 fan to control itself based on temperature, cause it runs at 100% every time I boot my computer
> 
> SpeedFan is a **** program so I don't wanna use that junk


maybe try a combo of a fan-controller unit with probes that adjusts the speed of fans depending on the temp set of that probe like on cpu XD just a idea lol


----------



## Reaper2794

I'm looking for a program...


----------



## Erick Silver

You could plug the fan into the CPU Fan Header and enable the bios fan speed thing. Just a thought.


----------



## Reaper2794

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> You could plug the fan into the CPU Fan Header and enable the bios fan speed thing. Just a thought.


which setting is that?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> You could plug the fan into the CPU Fan Header and enable the bios fan speed thing. Just a thought.


This








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794*
> 
> which setting is that?


In my bios I have the options for
*Auto* - Lets BIOS autodetect the type of CPU fan installed and sets the optimal CPU fan control mode. (Default)
*Voltage* - Sets Voltage mode for a 3-pin CPU fan.
*PWM* - Sets PWM mode for a 4-pin CPU fan

If I what the PC to control the fan, I select auto.

If I want it to run at 100%, I select Voltage,


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *preston.murrell*
> 
> how do yall get the super cold temps i have a h50 push pull and i cant get it to take my i3 below 35c i mean i never go over 60c overclocked to 3.4 on 1.2vcore and ambient temps at 75F running prime 95 blend but i feel as if i should be able to get colder that 35-38 idle temps


My i5 2500K runs about 33c when idling using an H100. Check your seating, make sure it's not hitting any capacitors.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Or maybe you didn't properly seat the heatsink good enough or applied thermal or did you use the stock thermal and tried to seat it right? Back to my questions here. Have any idea how long these coolers can last? I always wondered myself if i should get a new one if warranty expires? Worth it?


The H60, H80 and H100 all have 5 year warranties.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794*
> 
> Anyone know how I can configure my Corsair H60 fan to control itself based on temperature, cause it runs at 100% every time I boot my computer
> SpeedFan is a **** program so I don't wanna use that junk


Doesn't the H60 come with a 4-pin PWM fan? I know my H50 did. You should just plug it into your CPU_FAN header and it should control the fan based on temperature.

Note you may get a fan error at boot because of the slower 120mm fan, depending on your mobo. My ASUS mobo will allow me to set the minimum RPM threshold for the CPU_FAN error down to 300 (I think it's 300 RPM) so I can avoid the error.

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/43627-corsair-h60-high-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler-review-4.html

You can see on that page it's a 4-pin PWM fan. Just plug it into your CPU_FAN header and it should work.


----------



## Erick Silver

I need to get some screws or a 2nd fan for a Push/Pull config on my H60. What size do I need? Let me know guys as I am about to head to the hardware store in a few days to get them.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> I need to get some screws or a 2nd fan for a Push/Pull config on my H60. What size do I need? Let me know guys as I am about to head to the hardware store in a few days to get them.


The screw thread and length are 6 x 32 x 1 1/4"

#6 machine thread, 32 TPI (threads per inch), 1.25 inches in length.

Source:


----------



## Erick Silver

Thansk Sethy!


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Thansk Sethy!


Always a pleasure


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Just got my H50 from a member here on OCN. First thing I noticed. The corsair fan...buzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz LOUD! Ug. Air cooling was quieter...

Running Push/pull with one of my stock case fans and the corsair fan.

Not impressed. With my Arctic cooling Freezer 13 I would get around 64C max. Here's my H50.
I lapped both the i5 chip and the H50...considering repasting and trying again. I'm using ceramique. Considering trying Mx-2...



I'll get a pic of the case later...
hmm


----------



## Sethy666

Stock fans are adequate but can be improved on. Case fans generally dont have enough CFM to give you a cooling boost.

Suggest a fan with >70 cfm. Have a look at the fan list on the first page of this thread for what other H series users are using.

MX 2 or 4 is a good choice for TIM. Try using an intake configuration so your not sucking case heat through your rad.

H50s are infamous for seat problems. If you dont get it right your temps will be rubbish. Have another crack at re-seating and make sure the screws are tight but not overly torqued.

Hope this helps.


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Ah...much better:


Reseated with Mx-2. The cooler is down tight...

Yea my case fan is nice and quiet but not much air flow at all. I can tell the corsair fan has alot more CFM...
I also noticed the corsair fan is just wide enough to the point where I cannot put my side panel on..fail right? Looks like I'm gonna have to mod the case panel now to get it to fit properly...

I also need MOSFET cooling...Not worried about it with the voltage im running but it's probably a good idea. I've got 2 heatsink on the top mosfets but the side ones are getting pretty toasty... My infrared gun is showing me 72C on the MOSFETS...


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Ah...much better:
> Reseated with Mx-2. The cooler is down tight...
> Yea my case fan is nice and quiet but not much air flow at all. I can tell the corsair fan has alot more CFM...
> I also noticed the corsair fan is just wide enough to the point where I cannot put my side panel on..fail right? Looks like I'm gonna have to mod the case panel now to get it to fit properly...
> I also need MOSFET cooling...Not worried about it with the voltage im running but it's probably a good idea. I've got 2 heatsink on the top mosfets but the side ones are getting pretty toasty... My infrared gun is showing me 72C on the MOSFETS...


I had the same issue with my fan when I had it mounted in the back exhaust port. Instead of modding the case, I modded the side of the fan. Luckily, it was a soft plastic and I could shave it down with a stanley knife.

Modding a small 80mm fan to point at the mosfets would help. Ive used an antec spot cooler for those types fo issue.

http://store.antec.com/Product/cooling-cooling_fan/spot-cool/0-761345-75018-9.aspx


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Hmm....quite surprised really. I tried the thing with just the 1 case fan pushing...works quite well. I was cutting a grill out by the radiator while running this test so the temps are higher than what they should be. I saw a max of 57C...I can deal with that no problem. ANNNND my case now closes. Oh and I can hear things now.


----------



## Sethy666

Im glad thats worked out for you


----------



## overpower

add me pls
owner of h50 with 1090t cpu


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *overpower*
> 
> add me pls
> owner of h50 with 1090t cpu


Welcome!

You can add yourself to the spreadsheet found on the 1st page of this thread


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Here's some pics:
Lapped i5-2500k


Lapped H50:


The setup:


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Here's some pics:
> Lapped i5-2500k


Very nice work there, thanks for sharing!


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Kind of a lame post, but has anyone noticed the SIG for this forum club doesn't show properly from the code on the first page? I can correct it, but would guess that the moderators would like to change it so it reflects in users posts as it was meant to show. (Or am I just being picky?)


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Kind of a lame post, but has anyone noticed the SIG for this forum club doesn't show properly from the code on the first page? I can correct it, but would guess that the moderators would like to change it so it reflects in users posts as it was meant to show. (Or am I just being picky?)


This one?

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/612436-corsair-h50-hydro-series-owners-club.html#post7690988







: : The Official Corsair Hydro Series Club : :









Yeah, its a litte wonky but if you hightlight it, it seems to work.

You could PM Killhouse (thread starter) and advise him... Having said that, he's a bit busy ATM


----------



## gadget_lova

Guys, I want to ask..
My corsair H70 can make my 1090 T idle in max 22' C ; but it can only cool my new 2600k in max 38'C (among the 4 cores).

Is 2600k much hotter than 1090T or I should reseat my H70???









EDIT: Ambient temperature is pretty much the same..


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gadget_lova*
> 
> Guys, I want to ask..
> My corsair H70 can make my 1090 T idle in max 22' C ; but it can only cool my new 2600k in max 38'C (among the 4 cores).
> Is 2600k much hotter than 1090T or I should reseat my H70???


I can not comment on which chip is hotter, unfortunately.

38c at idle seems to be a tad warm but load temps are the key. What are your load temps?

Dependant on the load temps, you may need a re-seat.


----------



## Mergatroid

Something a little odd on my H100.

I was using it on a Gigabyte Socket 775 motherboard without issue. Working great at 7c lower than the H70 I was using before the H100.

When I changed my mobo to an ASUS i5 socket 1155 I noticed the screws for the H100 block were not tight. That is, they were screwed into the back plate as far as they would go, but they were still wobbly. I installed the TIM and the block, and everything seemed solid so I thought it was just that way the H100 block fit on this board.

This weekend I tore my system apart to clean it and swap fan controllers. While I was in there I decided to investigate the block because I didn't think the system was quite idling as low as it should be. I had been getting temps from about 33c to around 38c when just web browsing.

Sure enough the screws were still loose although they were screwed in all the way. I removed the block and found the TIM to be a little thicker on one side than the other which seemed to indicate it was not making full contact with the CPU. I removed the rear back plate and installed a red paper/fiber washer on each of the screw posts to hold the plate further off the board. I reinstalled the screws and they were tight and no longer wobbly or loose. After applying TIM and reinstalling, my idle temps now dip into the high 20s at the same ambient, and usually are under 35 while web browsing. I still have a week or two to go before the AS5 is cured which should give another 1 or 2c.

It's funny that the screws were tight on the socket 775 board but loose on the socket 1155 board. It's almost like the boards are a different thickness.

Just thought I would bring it up in case anyone else noticed the same thing.


----------



## gadget_lova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> I can not comment on which chip is hotter, unfortunately.
> 38c at idle seems to be a tad warm but load temps are the key. What are your load temps?
> Dependant on the load temps, you may need a re-seat.


I haven't check the load temps, as my computer need to be windows repaired because motherboard driver install.
What is the normal load temperature and delta temp of stock 2600k??

EDIT: Also is the metal bits on corsair H70 backplate must be inserted all the way to the screw hole when I installed the socket pump? It makes the rubber backplate bent.
I thought it's strange because in AM3 socket, the metal bits don't go through the screw hole because am3 socket backplate is covering the hole.


----------



## Mergatroid

Yeah, the H70 backplate should have screw posts that go into the holes in the mobo. If they're in correctly it should not bend the plate. At least, it didn't bend on an H70 in a socket 775, and an H50 also in a socket 775 that I've had here.


----------



## gadget_lova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Yeah, the H70 backplate should have screw posts that go into the holes in the mobo. If they're in correctly it should not bend the plate. At least, it didn't bend on an H70 in a socket 775, and an H50 also in a socket 775 that I've had here.


Do you mean the rubber plate??? If I didn't bend the rubber backplate, the pump socket will not screw tightly.. Or is that the correct way to mount it in 1155??


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gadget_lova*
> 
> I haven't check the load temps, as my computer need to be windows repaired because motherboard driver install.
> What is the normal load temperature and delta temp of stock 2600k??
> EDIT: Also is the metal bits on corsair H70 backplate must be inserted all the way to the screw hole when I installed the socket pump? It makes the rubber backplate bent.
> I thought it's strange because in AM3 socket, the metal bits don't go through the screw hole because am3 socket backplate is covering the hole.


I cant answer your question around normal load temps









In my experience with the H50 especially, the back plate screw holes went through the mobo. They may have changed the design for the H70. I cant recall what the H100 back plate did. There should be no bending of anything. Please confirm you are using the correct mounting set.


----------



## gadget_lova

The adhesive (I) make the rubber backplate bend because the metal bits go into the holes in mobo to tighten the 4 screws... How can you all make the rubber backplate not bend?

I'm certain that I'm using the correct hole, backplate, and socket for 1156 / 1155..


----------



## [email protected]

I always hated that backplate cuz if you wanted to change to a new cooler and these adhesive stickers just really stick so hard on the motherboard and it makes me feel like it'll rip it apart if i try to take it apart lol. I think they need to start giving us harder backplates instead of plastic so it'll peel off easily or just a screw in and out set up. Still it works good enough so far.

I wonder if Corsair is working on anything new for the 2012 thing?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Here's some pics:
> Lapped i5-2500k
> 
> Lapped H50:
> 
> The setup:


Did the lapped versions make any difference in temps?


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> This one?
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/612436-corsair-h50-hydro-series-owners-club.html#post7690988
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> : : The Official Corsair Hydro Series Club : :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, its a litte wonky but if you hightlight it, it seems to work.
> You could PM Killhouse (thread starter) and advise him... Having said that, he's a bit busy ATM


I think I'll work on it myself (hopefully today) and fix it. I'll post it when fixed so anyone that wants to "upgrade" can or they can use it on page one.
.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Something a little odd on my H100.
> I was using it on a Gigabyte Socket 775 motherboard without issue. Working great at 7c lower than the H70 I was using before the H100.
> When I changed my mobo to an ASUS i5 socket 1155 I noticed the screws for the H100 block were not tight. That is, they were screwed into the back plate as far as they would go, but they were still wobbly. I installed the TIM and the block, and everything seemed solid so I thought it was just that way the H100 block fit on this board.
> This weekend I tore my system apart to clean it and swap fan controllers. While I was in there I decided to investigate the block because I didn't think the system was quite idling as low as it should be. I had been getting temps from about 33c to around 38c when just web browsing.
> Sure enough the screws were still loose although they were screwed in all the way. I removed the block and found the TIM to be a little thicker on one side than the other which seemed to indicate it was not making full contact with the CPU. I removed the rear back plate and installed a red paper/fiber washer on each of the screw posts to hold the plate further off the board. I reinstalled the screws and they were tight and no longer wobbly or loose. After applying TIM and reinstalling, my idle temps now dip into the high 20s at the same ambient, and usually are under 35 while web browsing. I still have a week or two to go before the AS5 is cured which should give another 1 or 2c.
> It's funny that the screws were tight on the socket 775 board but loose on the socket 1155 board. It's almost like the boards are a different thickness.
> Just thought I would bring it up in case anyone else noticed the same thing.


Another thing that I don't think a lot of users do is tighten the screws wrong. You should use a 'criss-cross' pattern (like putting on a new tire wheel, you criss-cross tighten the bolts). Same with the cooling plate, tighten them in a criss-cross fasion until all are finger tight and won't go anymore. You'll find it'll fit better and won't come lose.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I always hated that backplate cuz if you wanted to change to a new cooler and these adhesive stickers just really stick so hard on the motherboard and it makes me feel like it'll rip it apart if i try to take it apart lol. I think they need to start giving us harder backplates instead of plastic so it'll peel off easily or just a screw in and out set up. Still it works good enough so far.
> I wonder if Corsair is working on anything new for the 2012 thing?


I might have a newer version as the back plate seems to be made of a stronger plastic and isn't prone to bending and there's no adhesive.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> This one?
> http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/612436-corsair-h50-hydro-series-owners-club.html#post7690988
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> : : The Official Corsair Hydro Series Club : :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, its a litte wonky but if you hightlight it, it seems to work.
> You could PM Killhouse (thread starter) and advise him... Having said that, he's a bit busy ATM


Well, I tried highlighting it every which way I could think of and couldn't get the above result, but I did modify it a bit and got the result you see below. It's nice and when you click on it, it takes you here to the beginning of the thread and club. I'll try and add the purple color to it (right now I did this as a fast fix) and re-post when it's done. But for now, (I think) not too shabby....

Here's the code if anyone wants it.

Code:



Code:


[SIZE=3][B][I]:sneaky: [URL=http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/612436-corsair-h50-hydro-series-owners-club]: : The Official Corsair Hydro Series Club : : :sneaky:[/URL][/B][/I][/SIZE]


----------



## Cakewalk_S

[email protected],

I'm not sure. I replaced my Arctic Cooling Freezer 13 with the H50 and when I took off the air cooler I right away lapped the i5 and when I got the H50 I lapped that right away too. I'd imagine I lowered my temps a few C. The grooves in the milling of the H50 were pretty bad and the i5 was clearly concave.


The AC Freezer 13 was surprisingly really flat. When I lapped it, it was perfectly flat, just had a few grooves I needed to take care of. I'm really happy with the temps with the H50. Doesn't hit 50C in BF3...


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gadget_lova*
> 
> Do you mean the rubber plate??? If I didn't bend the rubber backplate, the pump socket will not screw tightly.. Or is that the correct way to mount it in 1155??


I didn't try my H70 or H50 in a 1155 socket. However, if you're bending it you may be installing it incorrectly.

Let me check my manual for my H50 (the H50 and H70 mount the same way).

Is your cooler the H70 Core or the older H70? If it's a Core, watch this video:

http://www.corsair.com/cpu-cooling-kits/hydro-series-water-cooling-cpu-cooler/hydro-series-h70-core-high-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler.html

If it's the older H70:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3r4ITJm3fvE

If you have the older cooler, you have a back plate with multiple screw holes in it. If you put the pins in the correct holes, they will fit in the screw holes in the board without any bending involved. At about 2:40 in the video, they show a great image of the back plate. Each corner has three holes. (unfortunately I cannot find my H50 instructions). You have to put the pins in the holes that allow installation without bending.

Ah, here we go. Found the perfect page:

http://www.corsair.com/blog/faq-mounting-your-hydro-series-h50-h70-to-socket-1155/

You want to put your pins in the holes labeled 1156. If you do this you should be able to mount the back plate without bending anything. You can see on that page that the back plate mounts in crooked, so it won't be perfectly straight vertically.

You can see how it should look here:



OK, if you're using the adhesive you may get a slight bending. I didn't use the adhesive because I didn't want that junk on my mobo if I removed the cooler. So, it sounds like you have the back plate installed correctly. Just make sure the pins go through the holes in the mobo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I always hated that backplate cuz if you wanted to change to a new cooler and these adhesive stickers just really stick so hard on the motherboard and it makes me feel like it'll rip it apart if i try to take it apart lol. I think they need to start giving us harder backplates instead of plastic so it'll peel off easily or just a screw in and out set up. Still it works good enough so far.
> I wonder if Corsair is working on anything new for the 2012 thing?


That's why I never used the adhesive.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> I think I'll work on it myself (hopefully today) and fix it. I'll post it when fixed so anyone that wants to "upgrade" can or they can use it on page one.
> .
> Another thing that I don't think a lot of users do is tighten the screws wrong. You should use a 'criss-cross' pattern (like putting on a new tire wheel, you criss-cross tighten the bolts). Same with the cooling plate, tighten them in a criss-cross fasion until all are finger tight and won't go anymore. You'll find it'll fit better and won't come lose.
> I might have a newer version as the back plate seems to be made of a stronger plastic and isn't prone to bending and there's no adhesive.


Agreed, that's the way I've always done it. Mine is the H100 so it uses a metal plate quite different from the H50/70.



Uh, sure you got enough TIM on there?


----------



## gadget_lova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I didn't try my H70 or H50 in a 1155 socket. However, if you're bending it you may be installing it incorrectly.
> Let me check my manual for my H50 (the H50 and H70 mount the same way).
> Is your cooler the H70 Core or the older H70? If it's a Core, watch this video:
> http://www.corsair.com/cpu-cooling-kits/hydro-series-water-cooling-cpu-cooler/hydro-series-h70-core-high-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler.html
> If it's the older H70:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3r4ITJm3fvE
> If you have the older cooler, you have a back plate with multiple screw holes in it. If you put the pins in the correct holes, they will fit in the screw holes in the board without any bending involved. At about 2:40 in the video, they show a great image of the back plate. Each corner has three holes. (unfortunately I cannot find my H50 instructions). You have to put the pins in the holes that allow installation without bending.
> Ah, here we go. Found the perfect page:
> http://www.corsair.com/blog/faq-mounting-your-hydro-series-h50-h70-to-socket-1155/
> You want to put your pins in the holes labeled 1156. If you do this you should be able to mount the back plate without bending anything. You can see on that page that the back plate mounts in crooked, so it won't be perfectly straight vertically.
> You can see how it should look here:
> 
> OK, if you're using the adhesive you may get a slight bending. I didn't use the adhesive because I didn't want that junk on my mobo if I removed the cooler. So, it sounds like you have the back plate installed correctly. Just make sure the pins go through the holes in the mobo.
> That's why I never used the adhesive.


+rep, thx for superb explanation..







The pins have go through all the holes in my mobo. You're right, maybe I should not using the adhesive..

Mine is H70 vanilla, I have check my load temp, it's max 53'C - 55'C.. It's still quite good for stock clock, but I think it could be better..
The screw bracket in H70 pump socket is not so good and easy to break down. My first 4 screw bracket have deform and cannot be used again.. The last four is no better..
If I want to order a new bracket for H70, I should order to corsair directly, and I think I will not be happy with shipping charge as I live in Indonesia.

I think I should re-apply my TIM.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Agreed, that's the way I've always done it. Mine is the H100 so it uses a metal plate quite different from the H50/70.


Didn't know the 100 had a metal plate. I almost bought the 100 (wish I did now, it was a matter of being cheap). The 100 would have fit my case as it has two 120mm outlets on the top of the case and I would have avoided buying an extra fan to make my H60 cool a bit better in a push/pull config. Not to mention the money I spent on the extra fan and a Y-cable for the fans would have equaled the cost of the 100. Hind sight. Actually hind-sight should be something like, I'm now kicking myself in the ass for not getting the 100 in the first place...


----------



## [email protected]

Now i wish i had removed the adhesive in the first place long time ago lol. But i'm fine with it. I can always replace the same cooler since it has the same backplate







If i feel it's needed as a future proof. I think i had this for two years now i lost count to be honest lol.


----------



## joeyck

hey guys, a friend of mine will be sending me a h50 for writing his english paper for him, also i am buying a i5 2500K i plan on taking my i5 to a 4.5Ghz OC and thats that. now my concern is that should i just sell the h50 asap for money to get an h80? or should i keep the h50?

I plan to install this into a dark fleet 85 cooler and for either of the coolers they will be on maximum speed in push/pull what will give better cooling performance? any help would be lovely thank u!


----------



## Kokin

^Don't expect to get a lot back for the H50. You might be able to sell it for $35-40 shipped and you're out about $10 for shipping.

If you decide to get an H80, make sure you get it for a good price, as it's currently $95 in Amazon. Amazon is also selling the H100 for $104, so you might.as well get that instead.


----------



## joeyck

But if I do keep the h50 (and save $90) will a h50 in a DF-85 (good air flow case) keep a 4.5Ghz OC on a i5 2500K under a decent temp running Push/Pull at max speeds on all case fans (including the h50)?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RCPilotJAE*
> 
> Didn't know the 100 had a metal plate. I almost bought the 100 (wish I did now, it was a matter of being cheap). The 100 would have fit my case as it has two 120mm outlets on the top of the case and I would have avoided buying an extra fan to make my H60 cool a bit better in a push/pull config. Not to mention the money I spent on the extra fan and a Y-cable for the fans would have equaled the cost of the 100. Hind sight. Actually hind-sight should be something like, I'm now kicking myself in the ass for not getting the 100 in the first place...


Still though, the H60 is a pretty good cooler. I would have been more than happy with it when I was OCing my Core 2 Quad, but the i5 2500K seems to be a rather hot running beast.

Here's a pick of the H100 (and I would suppose H80) backplate:



It's just the black part. As I mentioned, I had a funny problem where the screws tightened to the posts in the backplate without being tight on the board and I had to add some paper washers. That was just on this ASUS board I'm using, it didn't do that on the Gigabyte socket 775 board I was using before.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeyck*
> 
> hey guys, a friend of mine will be sending me a h50 for writing his english paper for him, also i am buying a i5 2500K i plan on taking my i5 to a 4.5Ghz OC and thats that. now my concern is that should i just sell the h50 asap for money to get an h80? or should i keep the h50?
> I plan to install this into a dark fleet 85 cooler and for either of the coolers they will be on maximum speed in push/pull what will give better cooling performance? any help would be lovely thank u!


Using an H100 on my i5 2500K at 4.5GHz my temp will go up to 70c using the Intel Burn Test. The H50 is likely to be 7-10c hotter (based on my 7c temp drop when I moved from the H70 to the H100).

So, 4.5GHz using an H50 might give you 77-80c. You could lap it for a few more degrees c but personally, if I had a buyer I would sell it and get an H80 or H100 (whichever fits your case the best). It's hard to pin down what is the maximum safe sustained temperature for the i5 2500k, but I've seen 73c mentioned here and there so I aimed for keeping my cpu under 73c. If you can't find a buyer, I'm sure you can still get somewhere between 4HGz and 4.5zHz with the H50, but keep an eye on your temps. You'll have to decide on your safe maximum sustained temp from whatever data you can scrounge up. If you find something authoritative, let me know. Of course, not many pieces of software will push your CPU like Intel Burn Test does, so you may get a stable 4.5, just watch out for games like Battle Field 3. They really give the system a good workout.


----------



## joeyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Still though, the H60 is a pretty good cooler. I would have been more than happwith it when I was OCing my Core 2 Quad, but the i5 2500K seems to be a rather hot running beast.
> Here's a pick of the H100 (and I would suppose H80) backplate:
> 
> It's just the black part. As I mentioned, I had a funny problem where the screws tightened to the posts in the backplate without being tight on the board and I had to add some paper washers. That was just on this ASUS board I'm using, it didn't do that on the Gigabyte socket 775 board I was using before.
> Using an H100 on my i5 2500K at 4.5GHz my temp will go up to 70c using the Intel Burn Test. The H50 is likely to be 7-10c hotter (based on my 7c temp drop when I moved from the H70 to the H100).
> So, 4.5GHz using an H50 might give you 77-80c. You could lap it for a few more degrees c but personally, if I had a buyer I would sell it and get an H80 or H100 (whichever fits your case the best). It's hard to pin down what is the maximum safe sustained temperature for the i5 2500k, but I've seen 73c mentioned here and there so I aimed for keeping my cpu under 73c. If you can't find a buyer, I'm sure you can still get somewhere between 4HGz and 4.5zHz with the H50, but keep an eye on your temps. You'll have to decide on your safe maximum sustained temp from whatever data you can scrounge up. If you find something authoritative, let me know. Of course, not many pieces of software will push your CPU like Intel Burn Test does, so you may get a stable 4.5, just watch out for games like Battle Field 3. They really give the system a good workout.


Hey thanks for the reply, u might as well test the h50, I'm not looking for a crazy oc just want 4.5ghz but yea its either h50 or h80, since the h100 won't fit in the antec df-85.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeyck*
> 
> hey guys, a friend of mine will be sending me a h50 for writing his english paper for him, also i am buying a i5 2500K i plan on taking my i5 to a 4.5Ghz OC and thats that. now my concern is that should i just sell the h50 asap for money to get an h80? or should i keep the h50?
> I plan to install this into a dark fleet 85 cooler and for either of the coolers they will be on maximum speed in push/pull what will give better cooling performance? any help would be lovely thank u!


Yup, I'd sell it and get better. The H80 will have a better block than the 50. The way it is, is the 50 has a steel block and all the rest (upwards) have a copper block. And the new copper blocks have the 'micro channel cold plate' which probably helps cool quite a bit. (In fact if you'd like some comparisons on the same page go here> http://www.corsair.com/cpu-cooling-kits/hydro-series-water-cooling-cpu-cooler.html ) Now here's another thought. The 60 comes with one fan (and I've already added a 2nd fan to mine for a push/pull for better cooling). The 80 has both fans and I hear both the 70 & 80 have a better core radiator (a bit more 'beefy') so that's a nice thing too. Then there's the 100 which I wished I got in the first place, just because my case is built for it. But the 60 is a good cooler and does a hell of a lot better than that awful heat sink and fan Intel gives you with their processors. (I suppose it keeps costs down.) Anyway, I too would agree that selling the 50 first might be better for what you have in mind. And any of the higher up numbered units would be a good choice. All depends on how much you want to spend. Personally I wish I would have bought the 100 as after i bought a 2nd fan and a Y cable for the fans (in the 60) the 100 would have cost me the same amount. They can be found very cheaply now. After you check Amazon, check TigerDirect, the prices at Tiger are usually a few bucks cheaper than Amazon and some included free shipping.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Still though, the H60 is a pretty good cooler. I would have been more than happy with it when I was OCing my Core 2 Quad, but the i5 2500K seems to be a rather hot running beast.
> Here's a pick of the H100 (and I would suppose H80) backplate:
> 
> It's just the black part. As I mentioned, I had a funny problem where the screws tightened to the posts in the backplate without being tight on the board and I had to add some paper washers. That was just on this ASUS board I'm using, it didn't do that on the Gigabyte socket 775 board I was using before.
> Using an H100 on my i5 2500K at 4.5GHz my temp will go up to 70c using the Intel Burn Test. The H50 is likely to be 7-10c hotter (based on my 7c temp drop when I moved from the H70 to the H100).
> So, 4.5GHz using an H50 might give you 77-80c. You could lap it for a few more degrees c but personally, if I had a buyer I would sell it and get an H80 or H100 (whichever fits your case the best). It's hard to pin down what is the maximum safe sustained temperature for the i5 2500k, but I've seen 73c mentioned here and there so I aimed for keeping my cpu under 73c. If you can't find a buyer, I'm sure you can still get somewhere between 4HGz and 4.5zHz with the H50, but keep an eye on your temps. You'll have to decide on your safe maximum sustained temp from whatever data you can scrounge up. If you find something authoritative, let me know. Of course, not many pieces of software will push your CPU like Intel Burn Test does, so you may get a stable 4.5, just watch out for games like Battle Field 3. They really give the system a good workout.


That picture looks identical to my back plate (only mines black plastic). I have an Asus board also and didn't have the screw problem. I wonder what the difference was there? (And using washers is a good idea to fix it with.) I'm happy with the 60 now that I've added the 2nd fan (not to mention I bought one with some nice blue lighting which makes for a nicer look in the case) as it keeps the temps where I think they should be. I don't OC as much with this rig (YET) but I know I will and that little extra boost will help...lol....


----------



## joeyck

Alright thank you guys! and yea i would love the h100 but the Antec-DF isn't made for that, I don't want to lose the 2 top 140's. And if i try to install them in the back 120's the h100 RAD hits the the closed 140mm fan thats right next to the 120mm fans.


----------



## Kokin

If anything you could always just try out the H50 and see what kind of temps you get with a 4.5ghz overclock. From there you can decide to keep it or upgrade.

I also agree on getting a higher performing AIO cooler, but this is OCN, where spending more money for slight differences is the way to go. I see people here use the super cheap CM Hyper 212+ to achieve 4.5ghz and the H50 is already much better than that, so it's really up to whether or not you're happy with your temps.


----------



## d3v0

Hey guys, brand new to the H50 here. Also brand new to LGA1155. I have an antec P182 case with two intake fans on the front, the top fan exhausting and my H50 in push/pull exhausting.

*my CPU is stock,* and loading it with prime95 blend brings cores *1 ,2, 4 up to 58c* according to Realtemp GT and *core 3 is 61c.*

I used a rice grain size with a little spreading of Tuniq TX-2 thermal compound. Ambient is ~69f.

Also, the CPU clocks up to 4.2ghz under load, I imagine this is the turbo mode or whatever. Stock is 3.3ghz. VID is 1.31v.

Any tips? Oh I wlll add that my case cable management is very very clear, there is no obstruction from the intake fan through to the push/pull exhaust on the H50 except of course my low-ish profile G.Skill Sniper ram.


----------



## bluestang

Hey guys, great thread!

Running my H70 @ 1600 RPM setup up to exhaust out the back of my case. Need to replace one of the stock fans on my H70 as it is going bad. I have a spare Scythe SFF21G laying around. Since the SFF 21G should be a better fan static pressure wise and I will run it without the adapter to keep it @ 1900 RPM compared to the stock fan should I use it as the push fan or the pull fan?


----------



## rudderz666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluestang*
> 
> Hey guys, great thread!
> Running my H70 @ 1600 RPM setup up to exhaust out the back of my case. Need to replace one of the stock fans on my H70 as it is going bad. I have a spare Scythe SFF21G laying around. Since the SFF 21G should be a better fan static pressure wise and I will run it without the adapter to keep it @ 1900 RPM compared to the stock fan should I use it as the push fan or the pull fan?


i would use the spare as the pull not push they dont relly have high air flow nether but tbh i whould just get 2 new fans at some point to be sure to get max out of it iv got the H70 with push/pull setup 1800rpm gethal typhoons and they keep it 10c cooler than the stock fans







(26c) all 4 cores


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Hey guys, brand new to the H50 here. Also brand new to LGA1155. I have an antec P182 case with two intake fans on the front, the top fan exhausting and my H50 in push/pull exhausting.
> *my CPU is stock,* and loading it with prime95 blend brings cores *1 ,2, 4 up to 58c* according to Realtemp GT and *core 3 is 61c.*
> I used a rice grain size with a little spreading of Tuniq TX-2 thermal compound. Ambient is ~69f.
> Also, the CPU clocks up to 4.2ghz under load, I imagine this is the turbo mode or whatever. Stock is 3.3ghz. VID is 1.31v.
> Any tips? Oh I wlll add that my case cable management is very very clear, there is no obstruction from the intake fan through to the push/pull exhaust on the H50 except of course my low-ish profile G.Skill Sniper ram.


Sounds about right. I really don't know why but I get the same, three cores will be warmer than the 4th. I'm thinking that the 3 warmer cores are just doing more work than the 4th. Happens with regular loads too (IE: programs, multitasking, *not* using a specific program like Prime or Intel's Burn test.) In fact I have a few things running right now and the first core is higher than the rest. Go figure. I will say that the speed of your CPU is going way beyond what Turbo mode will do. You're getting almost a full 1 gighz over the stock rating. I may be wrong on that, but it's dam fast for just turbo. Someone will chime in here and explain it (hopefully) as I can't. I believe it should be something like .4 to .8 over.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluestang*
> 
> Hey guys, great thread!
> Running my H70 @ 1600 RPM setup up to exhaust out the back of my case. Need to replace one of the stock fans on my H70 as it is going bad. I have a spare Scythe SFF21G laying around. Since the SFF 21G should be a better fan static pressure wise and I will run it without the adapter to keep it @ 1900 RPM compared to the stock fan should I use it as the push fan or the pull fan?


Are you going to replace the stock fan, or keep it and run a push/pull? I would say to use the SFF21G as a push fan (in either case). I added a Shark to my H60 so it pushes and the stock fan that came with the 60 is pulling. I then tied them both together with a Y cable so they'd run the same and speed up or slow down according to what the CPU calls for. Seems to work great. Oh, and I have it exhausting out of the case. Too much dust in this area to have it sucked in and all over the components. So I figured with the exhaust it'll help. I'm now getting dust filters for all the fans in the case.


----------



## johnbmb2011

Hey add me! Corsair Hydro 60
Using as an exhaust w/ two fans. First one is the factory corsair H 60 fan with a 120mm fan that came with my storm enforcer case.


----------



## _REAPER_

Stupid question I have an H100 do you need to plug in both plugs or just the Molex?


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnbmb2011*
> 
> Hey add me! Corsair Hydro 60
> Using as an exhaust w/ two fans. First one is the factory corsair H 60 fan with a 120mm fan that came with my storm enforcer case.


Actually you add yourself, go to the first page and there's a Yahoo spreadsheet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Stupid question I have an H100 do you need to plug in both plugs or just the Molex?


What molex? I don't have the 100, but just looked at the manual. That was a waste of time...lol...Anyway, you should have two leads that come off the block. One will control the fans and the other the pump. The fans should go to the CPU 4-pin on the mobo and the pump should go to any extra 3 pin connector you have. This way the heat of the CPU will control the fan speed. The pump just needs continues power and doesn't need to be regulated. On the 100 there's another lead that would go to the Corsair Digital Link (if you have one, if not it won't get hooked up). Hopefully someone with a 100 will correctly give you the configuration as it's different from the 50,50, 70 & 80.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Stupid question I have an H100 do you need to plug in both plugs or just the Molex?


Plug everything in. The molex gives the fans the power and the other smaller plug goes onto your CPU fan header to control the fan speed,


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> Plug everything in. The molex gives the fans the power and the other smaller plug goes onto your CPU fan header to control the fan speed,


So the MOLEX powers the PUMP and the additional fans, I dont really care too much about controlling the fan speed as I am going to plug my fans directly into MOLEX as well.


----------



## RCPilotJAE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> So the MOLEX powers the PUMP and the additional fans, I dont really care too much about controlling the fan speed as I am going to plug my fans directly into MOLEX as well.


I see how they've wired it now. Yes, you need steady voltage to the pump, so if it's on the molex (along with extra fans) that's okay. The thing about the CPU header is if it's not used by one of the fans you may come up with a constant error every time you power up (and possibly during any computing). Use the molex for your pump and extra fans, then the fans will all run at one speed (fast). But I'd put at least one fan on the CPU header so the machine can regulate it and you won't get the annoying error message all the time.

Edit; I just noticed you have a Evga board. Those are nice boards and may have a way of turning the CPU fan header off. Then you can run all the fans off a power header (along with the pump) to keep them at the fast speed and won't get the error message.


----------



## XPD541

I actually have 3 H50's in my fleet, but can only show two as one rig is down in mexico serving in a work computer for my mom. Here are the other two rigs though, both are folding at 4ghz. One (With the blue-led fans on the RAM) is an i7-920 at 4ghz running Linux. It has a solitary Scythe Ultra Kaze DFS123812-3000 3kRPM fan on it and it never gets above 55c. (Exhausted). The other one is my Phenom II x4 965 at 4ghz (Never above 55c, again) using 2x Scythe Slipstream SY1225SL12SH.

Dem Picz: >.<*


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Stupid question I have an H100 do you need to plug in both plugs or just the Molex?


Hi.

Some little bit of FUD going around here.

The molex connector provides +12V for the pump and the fans. If you don't plug it in your pump and fans will not work.

The smaller connector is a Tac signal from the pump. You plug it into your CPU header for a couple of reasons.

1: So you know how fast the pump is operating
2: So you do not get a "CPU_FAN Error" when you boot the computer. If you don't connect it, you will generate an error (depending on your mobo) every time you boot. Besides, it's nice to load software like Speedfan and actually see your pump is running normally (it will show up as your CPU fan).

Note, don't bother setting the fan port to control the pump. There's no control wire, only the Tac signal. The block controls the pump.

The fans on the H80 and H100 plug into the block, not the CPU_FAN header. (I do wish people would get it right before offering advice). This will allow you to control them using one of three settings by just clicking the button on the block. Each setting is a range of RPMs that will control the fans in that range depending on the temperature of the CPU. You have a low range, medium range and a high range each activated by just pressing the button. The white indicator on the button indicates which range you are currently using.

Now, if you know what you are doing you can come up with other ways of connecting the fans and the Tac signal from the pump, but if you're not an advanced user I would recommend connecting it as mentioned above.

As an example, I have replaced my Corsair fans with a couple of PWM fans. I connected my pump Tac signal to a case fan header so I can still see the RPM (and I have a warning set on that header if it should fail), but my fans are connected to a PWM splitter. This allows me to plug them into the CPU_FAN header while drawing the power to run the fans from the PSU through the splitter. So, in my system the CPU_FAN header controls the speed of my fans depending on how hot the cpu is. I prefer having my motherboard control them over having the H100 block control them. This way I get a greater range of RPM, and I don't have to open my case to change ranges.

However, the disadvantage is that the fans I used (Scythe Slip Stream 1900 RPM 110 CFM PWM fans) are not as good as the stock Corsair fans because they don't have as high of a static pressure as the stock Corsair fans have. That's a tradeoff I made to connect them to my CPU_FAN header.

No matter what you read, CFM (cubic feet per minute) is not as important of a factor for rad fans as static pressure is. You're better off having a lower CFM fan with higher static pressure than a higher CFM with a lower static pressure. Unfortunately, not all the manufacturers list their static pressure. For example, Scythe makes one of the best rad fans (Gentile Typhoons) but they never list their static pressure so we can only go by people's results and opinions when comparing them to other fans.

If I was you, I would plug the fans into the block and use the highest range. Why have them running at 100% all the time if you don't need to?


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Hi.
> Some little bit of FUD going around here.
> The molex connector provides +12V for the pump and the fans. If you don't plug it in your pump and fans will not work.
> The smaller connector is a Tac signal from the pump. You plug it into your CPU header for a couple of reasons.
> 1: So you know how fast the pump is operating
> 2: So you do not get a "CPU_FAN Error" when you boot the computer. If you don't connect it, you will generate an error (depending on your mobo) every time you boot. Besides, it's nice to load software like Speedfan and actually see your pump is running normally (it will show up as your CPU fan).
> Note, don't bother setting the fan port to control the pump. There's no control wire, only the Tac signal. The block controls the pump.
> The fans on the H80 and H100 plug into the block, not the CPU_FAN header. (I do wish people would get it right before offering advice). This will allow you to control them using one of three settings by just clicking the button on the block. Each setting is a range of RPMs that will control the fans in that range depending on the temperature of the CPU. You have a low range, medium range and a high range each activated by just pressing the button. The white indicator on the button indicates which range you are currently using.
> Now, if you know what you are doing you can come up with other ways of connecting the fans and the Tac signal from the pump, but if you're not an advanced user I would recommend connecting it as mentioned above.
> As an example, I have replaced my Corsair fans with a couple of PWM fans. I connected my pump Tac signal to a case fan header so I can still see the RPM (and I have a warning set on that header if it should fail), but my fans are connected to a PWM splitter. This allows me to plug them into the CPU_FAN header while drawing the power to run the fans from the PSU through the splitter. So, in my system the CPU_FAN header controls the speed of my fans depending on how hot the cpu is. I prefer having my motherboard control them over having the H100 block control them. This way I get a greater range of RPM, and I don't have to open my case to change ranges.
> However, the disadvantage is that the fans I used (Scythe Slip Stream 1900 RPM 110 CFM PWM fans) are not as good as the stock Corsair fans because they don't have as high of a static pressure as the stock Corsair fans have. That's a tradeoff I made to connect them to my CPU_FAN header.
> No matter what you read, CFM (cubic feet per minute) is not as important of a factor for rad fans as static pressure is. You're better off having a lower CFM fan with higher static pressure than a higher CFM with a lower static pressure. Unfortunately, not all the manufacturers list their static pressure. For example, Scythe makes one of the best rad fans (Gentile Typhoons) but they never list their static pressure so we can only go by people's results and opinions when comparing them to other fans.
> If I was you, I would plug the fans into the block and use the highest range. Why have them running at 100% all the time if you don't need to?


I am going to be using coolermaster Excalibur fans I think they are pretty good for the H100. Below are the specs tell me what you think

Excalibur (R4-EXBB-20PK-R0)

Model
R4-EXBB-20PK-R0
Dimension
120x120x25
Speed (R.P.M.)
600 - 2000 RPM ± 10%
Air Flow (CFM)
26.4 - 85.6 CFM ± 10%
Air pressure (mmH2O)
0.75 - 3.53 mmH2O
Noise Level
13 - 30 dBA
Bearing Type
Barometric Ball Bearing
Fan Life Expectancy
100,000 hours
Voltage
12 V DC
Current (Ampere)
0.45A Max.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> *Some little bit of FUD going around here.*
> The molex connector provides +12V for the pump and the fans. If you don't plug it in your pump and fans will not work.
> The smaller connector is a Tac signal from the pump. You plug it into your CPU header for a couple of reasons.
> 1: So you know how fast the pump is operating
> 2: So you do not get a "CPU_FAN Error" when you boot the computer.


Mergatroid ... Thankyou for saving this thread! +Rep ... the amount of mis-information going around lately is astonishing :O


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am going to be using coolermaster Excalibur fans I think they are pretty good for the H100. Below are the specs tell me what you think
> Excalibur (R4-EXBB-20PK-R0)
> Model
> R4-EXBB-20PK-R0
> Dimension
> 120x120x25
> Speed (R.P.M.)
> 600 - 2000 RPM ± 10%
> Air Flow (CFM)
> 26.4 - 85.6 CFM ± 10%
> Air pressure (mmH2O)
> 0.75 - 3.53 mmH2O
> Noise Level
> 13 - 30 dBA
> Bearing Type
> Barometric Ball Bearing
> Fan Life Expectancy
> 100,000 hours
> Voltage
> 12 V DC
> Current (Ampere)
> 0.45A Max.


Those look like pretty good fans for 2000 RPM. 3.53 mmH20 is pretty good. For a comparison the stock H100 fans are:

2500 RPM
92 CFM
7.7mm/H20

They are higher RPM, a little better static pressure and likely louder. I think the fans you picked out should be ok.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Mergatroid ... Thankyou for saving this thread! +Rep ... the amount of mis-information going around lately is astonishing :O


Thanks. I try to let others know when I see something I don't think is right. It wasn't serious or anything, but people should be aware of how the product works so they can make informed decisions.


----------



## .theMetal

hey all, wondering what the outside diameter of the h50 lines are, I want to add some blue anti-kink coil just for funsies


----------



## Mergatroid

No clue about that. I have never measured it myself.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> hey all, wondering what the outside diameter of the h50 lines are, I want to add some blue anti-kink coil just for funsies


Try 3/8" OD

Source:
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=84173


----------



## mordocai rp

to anyone that modded their h50, is there any corrosion risk between the rad and cpu plate?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> to anyone that modded their h50, is there any corrosion risk between the rad and cpu plate?


I'm wondering this as well, as you would need to add some sort of anti-corrosive additive since the rad is aluminum and the plate is copper.

Also, if anyone is interested in a H50 with 2x Yate Loon High Speeds, I am selling it for $45 shipped ($40shipped without the fans)! I'll be making my own custom loop (though it's all XSPC parts) soon and I need the funds from the H50 to get me a CPU block.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> Try 3/8" OD
> Source:
> http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=84173


thanks, I'll give it a shot.


----------



## rab1/2

here is my H80 put into my HAF 912 with a slight mod, to get a good intake spot.
I also went with a shroud for each fan. This thing is pretty quiet even ramped up.


----------



## nothor

Fan overkill! I like it!


----------



## Mergatroid

Very good job. Nice build for sure.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rab1/2*


Very nice/clean install!







But where are your SSD/storage/optical drives? Are you modding the HDD cage back in there later? Are you using an external USB 3.0 optical drive? I've always been curious as to how much slower an external USB optical drive would be, if much at all?


----------



## rudderz666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Very nice/clean install!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But where are your SSD/storage/optical drives? Are you modding the HDD cage back in there later? Are you using an external USB 3.0 optical drive? I've always been curious as to how much slower an external USB optical drive would be, if much at all?


yes nice job but too are wondering where the HDDs are or however ya doin it


----------



## ra_27

Look great how cool is it keeping your system rab1/2?


----------



## _REAPER_

Let me know what you guys think...


----------



## rab1/2

I am not using an optical drive i decided to not put it in considering i have not used it since installing windows. If i ever to need it ill open the case and plug it in or get a 3.0 case for it. The SSD is actually behind the mobo tray held in place be Velcro and some of the cable management. I don't use this for anything other than gaming and a bit of browsing as i am working on a hptc that will actually need some storage. After using an ssd it's going to be hard to ever use a hdd on my main computer again.

The h80 is keeping my 4.5ghz oc at a max of 59 degrees running prime95 blend for a few hours, where as my 212+ was usually siting around 70 or higher.


----------



## moparbob7

Hey guys, I just got the Asus Sabertooth 990FX and I also have the Corsair H50. I was wondering about the 3 pin connection coming out of the water block that goes on the CPU. I have mine connected to the CHA_Fan 4 which is the 3 pin connection.

My question is can you plug that 3 pin connector into the 4 pin cpu fan.

Thanks,
Bob


----------



## Kokin

So now that I've moved on to my own custom loop, is there a way to take myself off the list? I'll still visit this thread though.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moparbob7*
> 
> Hey guys, I just got the Asus Sabertooth 990FX and I also have the Corsair H50. I was wondering about the 3 pin connection coming out of the water block that goes on the CPU. I have mine connected to the CHA_Fan 4 which is the 3 pin connection.
> My question is can you plug that 3 pin connector into the 4 pin cpu fan.
> Thanks,
> Bob


Yes you could do that. That was what I did before I got a fan controller that could controll all the channels through PWM.


----------



## nerdybeat

Still loving my H70! Keeps my Gulftown i7 pretty cool. ~35C idles on 65F, and 60-65C on gaming/prime95. Been debating the H100, but no real need for it aside from aesthetics =P


----------



## BackwoodsNC

Moving over to LGA 2011! Will my H50 work on that socket? I have seen over at the corsair forums that will make a adapter; and make it available in the store but i don't see it. Going full water on LGA 2011 but i want to keep the H50 as a backup.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BackwoodsNC*
> 
> Moving over to LGA 2011! Will my H50 work on that socket? I have seen over at the corsair forums that will make a adapter; and make it available in the store but i don't see it. Going full water on LGA 2011 but i want to keep the H50 as a backup.


AFAIK, there isn't anything available yet. I also checked their webstore and found nothing.


----------



## eNkrypt

Using the H70 here







My pictures reflect H60 but it was RMA'd because of noise:


----------



## BackwoodsNC

Sent Corsair Tech support a question about the LGA 2011 Adapter kit for the H50. Here is what I got back!

"*There will be a kit available by the end of this month you H50 users can fit their cooler on an Intel socket 2011*. "


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BackwoodsNC*
> 
> Sent Corsair Tech support a question about the LGA 2011 Adapter kit for the H50. Here is what I got back!
> "*There will be a kit available by the end of this month you H50 users can fit their cooler on an Intel socket 2011*. "


Im wondering what the response will be.

There is a ton of them out there but they are also no longer in production...


----------



## Vestito

Is screwing in the fans into a H80 rad supposed to be super hard?... Having a tough time getting them in..


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vestito*
> 
> Is screwing in the fans into a H80 rad supposed to be super hard?... Having a tough time getting them in..


No... check that you are not stripping the thread or there is no obstruction.


----------



## Vestito

I don't think I am... maybe 2 turns in screws feel almost like they are getting stuck or something.. how far are the screws supposed to go in? I'm assuming all the way down so the fans secure?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vestito*
> 
> I don't think I am... maybe 2 turns in screws feel almost like they are getting stuck or something.. how far are the screws supposed to go in? I'm assuming all the way down so the fans secure?


If the screw head is flush with the fan hole, your good. If on the otherhand, you have some of the screw thread showing... there is an obstruction.


----------



## GreenieGriz

I'd like to join.



Used AS5 instead of whatever they (Corsair) put on there. So far a 10c drop in Prime95 load temps vs stock cooler, might get better after burn-in period.


----------



## _REAPER_

Nice setup ^


----------



## Mergatroid

10c seems a little low. When I added an H70 to a core 2 quad, not only did I get close to a 20c temp reduction under load, but that was after overclocking the CPU 30% faster. I know the H60 is a good cooler because I just got finished installing one on the same board I sold to a friend of mine and it was only a few degrees warmer than the H70 (it impressed me how well it did with the smaller rad). Of course maybe your AMD stock cooler was better than the Intel stock cooler I was using.
Check your mounting and make sure the block is seated well. It's too bad you removed the stock TIM. It's made by Dow Corning and is supposed to be as good or better than AS5, but it has no curing time like AS5 has. (I use AS5 when I have to remount a cooler and clean off the stock TIM).


----------



## GreenieGriz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> 10c seems a little low. When I added an H70 to a core 2 quad, not only did I get close to a 20c temp reduction under load, but that was after overclocking the CPU 30% faster. I know the H60 is a good cooler because I just got finished installing one on the same board I sold to a friend of mine and it was only a few degrees warmer than the H70 (it impressed me how well it did with the smaller rad). Of course maybe your AMD stock cooler was better than the Intel stock cooler I was using.
> Check your mounting and make sure the block is seated well. It's too bad you removed the stock TIM. It's made by Dow Corning and is supposed to be as good or better than AS5, but it has no curing time like AS5 has. (I use AS5 when I have to remount a cooler and clean off the stock TIM).


I may consider remounting it this evening. Might have helped if I put my actual temps.

Ambient around: 22-23c

Clocked at 3.7 the temps were:
Idle: 36-40c (can't remember







)
Load: 49-50c

Now I have it clocked at 4.008 (CPU-Z Val) and the temps are:
Idle: Fluctuates from 36-38c
Max load temp after an hour of P95: 54c

On the stock AMD cooler I was getting load temps (at stock 3.5) around 60-62c, which I didn't think was too awful.

So Merg, think a remount would help any? 54c at 4.0 isn't too bad but I guess it could be better?

Edit: Note: All temps are well before burn-in period


----------



## Kieran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Let me know what you guys think...


A very clean and well cable managed build you have there, how are those coolermaster excalibur fans doing on the H100 in regards to temperatures and the amount of noise they produce?

Also does anyone know what Thermal Paste is used on the H100 and whether it is possible to buy some more of it?
I've got a new motherboard coming this week so i will need to remount my H100.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreenieGriz*
> 
> I may consider remounting it this evening. Might have helped if I put my actual temps.
> Ambient around: 22-23c
> Clocked at 3.7 the temps were:
> Idle: 36-40c (can't remember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Load: 49-50c
> Now I have it clocked at 4.008 (CPU-Z Val) and the temps are:
> Idle: Fluctuates from 36-38c
> Max load temp after an hour of P95: 54c
> On the stock AMD cooler I was getting load temps (at stock 3.5) around 60-62c, which I didn't think was too awful.
> So Merg, think a remount would help any? 54c at 4.0 isn't too bad but I guess it could be better?
> Edit: Note: All temps are well before burn-in period


I can't say for sure, but I would have thought the H60 would handle your CPU a little better than it is. You're only overclocking by 200MHz, which is really nothing. That shouldn't add much heat to it. During load I would expect at least a 20c drop from the stock cooler myself. I haven't owned an AMD for over five years so maybe I just don't know what to expect from one, but I sure got a great drop from that H70 and I think the H60 is pretty close in performance to the H70 from what I saw installing one on the same board.

Check and make sure the block is not hitting any capacitors mounted around your CPU (I doubt it is. I think the temp would be even higher if it was). Give a reseat a try and cross your fingers.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kieran*
> 
> A very clean and well cable managed build you have there, how are those coolermaster excalibur fans doing on the H100 in regards to temperatures and the amount of noise they produce?
> Also does anyone know what Thermal Paste is used on the H100 and whether it is possible to buy some more of it?
> I've got a new motherboard coming this week so i will need to remount my H100.


The H100 uses Dow Corning TIM. As far as I know it's not available to the public. AS5 is in the same class, but it has a curing time so you won't get the best temps for a week or so depending on how much you use your computer. With AS5 I've seen my CPU temp drop by around 1-3c after the curing time is up.

Here's a pretty good list of TIMs. It's a little old now, but it still stands up pretty well.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62

Any of the "A" grade TIMs should be good. Even the "B" grade TIMS are pretty good as well. The difference is only a few degrees.


----------



## GreenieGriz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I can't say for sure, but I would have thought the H60 would handle your CPU a little better than it is. You're only overclocking by 200MHz, which is really nothing. That shouldn't add much heat to it. During load I would expect at least a 20c drop from the stock cooler myself. I haven't owned an AMD for over five years so maybe I just don't know what to expect from one, but I sure got a great drop from that H70 and I think the H60 is pretty close in performance to the H70 from what I saw installing one on the same board.
> Check and make sure the block is not hitting any capacitors mounted around your CPU (I doubt it is. I think the temp would be even higher if it was). Give a reseat a try and cross your fingers.


I left the computer running while I was out of the house for a few hours. Right now idle temps are 41c, which is only about 6-8c lower than stock cooler. I'm reseating after this post









PS: The stock clock is 3.5 and its overclocked to 4.0 now.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kieran*
> 
> A very clean and well cable managed build you have there, how are those coolermaster excalibur fans doing on the H100 in regards to temperatures and the amount of noise they produce?
> Also does anyone know what Thermal Paste is used on the H100 and whether it is possible to buy some more of it?
> I've got a new motherboard coming this week so i will need to remount my H100.


the COM Excalibur fans are the best fans I have used they move alot of air and I dont really mind the noise. They keep me idle at 35C max 60C at 4.5ghz. I could push further but 4.5ghz is good enough for me.


----------



## Kieran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I can't say for sure, but I would have thought the H60 would handle your CPU a little better than it is. You're only overclocking by 200MHz, which is really nothing. That shouldn't add much heat to it. During load I would expect at least a 20c drop from the stock cooler myself. I haven't owned an AMD for over five years so maybe I just don't know what to expect from one, but I sure got a great drop from that H70 and I think the H60 is pretty close in performance to the H70 from what I saw installing one on the same board.
> Check and make sure the block is not hitting any capacitors mounted around your CPU (I doubt it is. I think the temp would be even higher if it was). Give a reseat a try and cross your fingers.
> The H100 uses Dow Corning TIM. As far as I know it's not available to the public. AS5 is in the same class, but it has a curing time so you won't get the best temps for a week or so depending on how much you use your computer. With AS5 I've seen my CPU temp drop by around 1-3c after the curing time is up.
> Here's a pretty good list of TIMs. It's a little old now, but it still stands up pretty well.
> http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62
> Any of the "A" grade TIMs should be good. Even the "B" grade TIMS are pretty good as well. The difference is only a few degrees.


I've got some spare Shin-Etsu G751, it's on the "A" grade TIM list so that will do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> the COM Excalibur fans are the best fans I have used they move alot of air and I dont really mind the noise. They keep me idle at 35C max 60C at 4.5ghz. I could push further but 4.5ghz is good enough for me.


They're quite good temperatures you have there. Now i've got a choice between the Coolermaster Excaibur or save up a bit more for 2 Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm's.

1000th post


----------



## _REAPER_

I would recommend the CM Excalibur fans to be honest with you I have them in PUSH/PULL. They move alot of air. I will be putting 2 more in the front of my case with shrouds on them to move more air in my case to cool my VRMs


----------



## Krusher33

I would think most 38mm thick fans will do the trick? Using Panaflo mediums on mine.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kieran*
> 
> I've got some spare Shin-Etsu G751, it's on the "A" grade TIM list so that will do.
> They're quite good temperatures you have there. Now i've got a choice between the Coolermaster Excaibur or save up a bit more for 2 Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm's.
> 1000th post


Shin-Etsu is great stuff. That was the stock TIM on the H50 and H70.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I would recommend the CM Excalibur fans to be honest with you I have them in PUSH/PULL. They move alot of air. I will be putting 2 more in the front of my case with shrouds on them to move more air in my case to cool my VRMs


It's amazing the stuff you can fit into that Half X case. I have the 600T and I can't even fit a rad and a set of 25mm thick fans inside the case without using the upper fan compartment. It's really too bad Corsair didn't make this case an inch taller.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I would think most 38mm thick fans will do the trick? Using Panaflo mediums on mine.


Make sure they will fit in your case before you purchase them.


----------



## Sethy666

Ive just resurrected my old H-50 and put it into service cooling my GTX 580. Its still a work in progress and Ill get some pic up soon, if anyone is interested.

So far...

Mounted the rad with a 38mm Ultra Kaze 2000 (intake) on the side panel of my CM 690.
Ambient 24c
Idle 28c
Load (folding) 57c
Skyrim 46c

It does take 3 slots, so its not a small mod.

As opposed to Accelero Xtreme PLUS
Ambient 24c
Idle 32c
Load (folding) 68 - 71c (depending on the folding work unit)
Skyrim 62c

I love the Hydro series... so versitile


----------



## Krusher33

Nice! We'll want pics.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Nice! We'll want pics.


I was thinking last night when i was doing it.... "I should be taking pics" but I just want to see how it worked.









Ill take some tonight


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> I was thinking last night when i was doing it.... "I should be taking pics" but I just want to see how it worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ill take some tonight


What's funny bro is that I just installed a Kuhler on my gpu tonight. No pics and of course... they want pics. LOL


----------



## UZ7

Looks a little messy, still planning to get a new PSU







but so far temps are nice 30~ idle, 70-75~ prime95.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UZ7*
> 
> Looks a little messy, still planning to get a new PSU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but so far temps are nice 30~ idle, 70-75~ prime95.


Not bad for the humble H50









Cable management is a rainy day thing... your'll get around to it


----------



## WebsterXC

Well this is one of my first mods and first REAL posts here at OCN. Here's what I've done to my H50, basically the same thing as Willhemmens, just a different reservoir. Currently, I've still got the stock fan on the radiator as an intake, however I plan to switch it with a Gentle Typhoon or Delta fan in the very near future. This project is my first rig build over a gradual span of time therefore at this moment in time, I don't have a video card so I haven't been able to look at temps or really test the cooling power of the loop. I have done an 8-hour test though, and it worked flawlessly. When I get my video card and OS installed, I'll be sure to post my result temps. (Cable management is a disaster right now







)


----------



## Sethy666

Looking forward to seeing your temps... as Im sure you are


----------



## UZ7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> Not bad for the humble H50
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cable management is a rainy day thing... your'll get around to it


haha thanks, I had the H50 for the longest time though, I had it through my E8400, i7 920 days before getting a Noctua but I ended up selling that and using this for the 2500K. Overall regular use I like it, not as noisy







.


----------



## Cyrious

You know, it has occurred to me that Corsair should come out with a line of brackets and backplates for GPUs for the H40, H50, and H70, just so we dont have to rely on zip-ties to secure the blocks to the card. That would probably be decently popular.

Also, update on my little setup, i swapped the mismatched pair i had installed for a pair of fairly slow deltas (by slow i mean 12V gets about 2200 RPM out of them) undervolted to 6V. @ 4ghz 1.42v temps dont cross 55C unless under extreme load, whereas under the Freezer 7 Pro Rev2 i had on it before, at this speed and voltage it would be closer to 75 under standard load and 90+ under extreme load.

that being said, i love my H50


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyrious*
> 
> You know, it has occurred to me that Corsair should come out with a line of brackets and backplates for GPUs for the H40, H50, and H70, just so we dont have to rely on zip-ties to secure the blocks to the card. That would probably be decently popular.
> Also, update on my little setup, i swapped the mismatched pair i had installed for a pair of fairly slow deltas (by slow i mean 12V gets about 2200 RPM out of them) undervolted to 6V. @ 4ghz 1.42v temps dont cross 55C unless under extreme load, whereas under the Freezer 7 Pro Rev2 i had on it before, at this speed and voltage it would be closer to 75 under standard load and 90+ under extreme load.
> that being said, i love my H50


I would image they would sell heaps









Nice tweek on the fans, Btw









Addit: Pics of H50 mod as promised...





And some temps:


----------



## Mergatroid

That's pretty sweet guys. It makes me wish I had never of sold my H70 when I upgraded. How have your gpu memory temps been affected?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> That's pretty sweet guys. It makes me wish I had never of sold my H70 when I upgraded. How have your gpu memory temps been affected?


No effect that Im aware of. I played Skyrim for 3 hours solid after installing the mod, with no issues.

Also, I dont OC my memory.

There appears plenty of case ventilation happening for passive cooling, including the 120mm fan on the side panel.


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Anyone know what is better? Push fan on the H50 or Pull fan on the H50? I've got it configured right now to push out the case with the stock Corsair fan. Not sure what works best...
Love OCN. I'll get this question answered in under 10minutes...probably within a min or two...


----------



## eskamobob1

win? i think so


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Anyone know what is better? Push fan on the H50 or Pull fan on the H50? I've got it configured right now to push out the case with the stock Corsair fan. Not sure what works best...
> Love OCN. I'll get this question answered in under 10minutes...probably within a min or two...


Well, maybe 22 mins









I prefer push (intake). That way your getting cooler outside air through your rad rather than hotter case air.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Anyone know what is better? Push fan on the H50 or Pull fan on the H50? I've got it configured right now to push out the case with the stock Corsair fan. Not sure what works best...
> Love OCN. I'll get this question answered in under 10minutes...probably within a min or two...


Depends on what you're looking for from the cooler. If you use it as an intake you can get air from outside the case to pass through the rad. That's usually cooler than case air so you should get a lower CPU temp by a few degrees. The air heats up as it passes through the rad so you're actually drawing warm air into the case. Some people prefer to set the rad and fan up as exhaust instead so they are not increasing the case temp where most video cards get their air, however their cpu will be a few degrees warmer as a result.

As for push vs pull, I think they also perform within a degree or two of each other. My H100 is set up as push/exhaust.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> Anyone know what is better? Push fan on the H50 or Pull fan on the H50? I've got it configured right now to push out the case with the stock Corsair fan. Not sure what works best...
> Love OCN. I'll get this question answered in under 10minutes...probably within a min or two...


Yes, like everyone else has said, it all depends on what kind of ventilation you have elsewhere in your case. For instance, I have a Raidmax Aeolus, and my H50 is set up as an intake fan, however I have 2x 88CFM exhaust fans literally right above the edge of the radiator for exhaust, so I'm not too worried about excess hot air inside my case from a hot H50 radiator.


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Yes, like everyone else has said, it all depends on what kind of ventilation you have elsewhere in your case. For instance, I have a Raidmax Aeolus, and my H50 is set up as an intake fan, however *I have 2x 88CFM exhaust fans literally right above the edge of the radiator for exhaust, so I'm not too worried about excess hot air inside my case from a hot H50 radiato*r.


Thats the key for intake setups... a good exhaust option









Ive got a 38mm Ultra Kaze 2000 as my rear exhaust and the rad air gets sucked out before it knows whats happening


----------



## mordocai rp

Anyone have a h40/60/70/80 pump that they dont need and want to trade for something? Turns out my h50 pump is too tall for my sff build :c


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> Thats the key for intake setups... a good exhaust option
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ive got a 38mm Ultra Kaze 2000 as my rear exhaust and the rad air gets sucked out before it knows whats happening


Hey thanks! Yeah those 88CFM fans are Yate Loons, the best $7 fan I'll ever buy ($4 with my employee discount <3). Any recommendations for a nice intake fan? The stock Corsair one is nice, but it's just...meh. Was going to pick up a Gentle Typhoon 4250 when my work get's them back in stock.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> Anyone have a h40/60/70/80 pump that they dont need and want to trade for something? Turns out my h50 pump is too tall for my sff build :c


I feel like you're going to have a hard time finding a stand alone pump unit for a Corsair. Did you already take the loop apart (if you're modding that is)? If not you could always sell/return it. H50's sell like hotcakes here, and on ebay.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey Webster, pair a couple Yates together (same speed) and you'll be fine. When I had the H50 I took the BNIB fan and hacked out the internals and made a shroud out of it.









Hai guys.









It's not Corsair that makes these units so maybe someone should suggest the bracket idea to Acetek and Coolit, who are the companies that built the(I think Coolit is the new guy) Hydro Series Coolers.









~Ceadder


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey Webster, pair a couple Yates together (same speed) and you'll be fine. When I had the H50 I took the BNIB fan and hacked out the internals and made a shroud out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hai guys.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not Corsair that makes these units so maybe someone should suggest the bracket idea to Acetek and Coolit, who are the companies that built the(I think Coolit is the new guy) Hydro Series Coolers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks for the feedback bro, much appreciated. Push pull is the way to go apparently?

And I haven't done research yet, and I definitely will, but could someone give me a quick 5-sentence summary of what a shroud actually is?


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback bro, much appreciated. Push pull is the way to go apparently?
> And I haven't done research yet, and I definitely will, but could someone give me a quick 5-sentence summary of what a shroud actually is?


Push / pull is the preferred option. If you can manage a shroud or two... even better









A shroud physically moves the fan hub away from the radiator. This opens up more rad surface area to be cooled by the fan, thus increasing the cooling potiental of the rad.

Typically, you can expect a 1-3c drop in temps. Some people report more, Me, I got @ 2c difference. Doesnt sound like much but its a cake-walk mod and who doesnt want lower temps for not alot of effort.

Setup:
Fan>shroud>rad>shroud>fan

Shroud (ex-fan)


Shrouds in action:


----------



## WebsterXC

Oh wow a pic and everything! Thanks so much man, I'll see what I can do! I highly doubt I can fit the shrouds though, let alone push/pull


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Oh wow a pic and everything! Thanks so much man, I'll see what I can do! I highly doubt I can fit the shrouds though, let alone push/pull


The last pic was a P/P UK 2000 38mm fan setup with 2 x 25mm shrouds and a 25mm rad. Total lenght took the whole width of 2 x 5.25 bay (151mm)


----------



## _REAPER_

The shroud makes a difference by a few degrees I used to have them on my H70 but it is hard to do with the H100


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethy666*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Oh wow a pic and everything! Thanks so much man, I'll see what I can do! I highly doubt I can fit the shrouds though, let alone push/pull
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last pic was a P/P UK 2000 38mm fan setup with 2 x 25mm shrouds and a 25mm rad. Total lenght took the whole width of 2 x 5.25 bay (151mm)
Click to expand...

Don't know what you're complaining about. My P/P with one shroud took up two 5.25 bays vertically. Things were so tight in there I barely got my ODD in and only with some creative wiggling of the ODD.









Although your setup would take up 4 bays in vertical orientation in my 932.









~Ceadder


----------



## KingMaddog

I have an H50 being delivered today and I have a question. From what I understand, I want to plug the pump into a fan header that is not controlled by the motherboard. My question is, can I plug it into a molex adapter and have it running full blast from the PSU? One more thing. I have a Tempest and I am going with push/pull, can I have the radiator at the back of my case as an exhaust? I know I'm supposed to have fresh air blowing over the radiator, but I don't want to suck in the air from behind my PC. Any thoughts?


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> I have an H50 being delivered today and I have a question. From what I understand, I want to plug the pump into a fan header that is not controlled by the motherboard. My question is, can I plug it into a molex adapter and have it running full blast from the PSU? One more thing. I have a Tempest and I am going with push/pull, can I have the radiator at the back of my case as an exhaust? I know I'm supposed to have fresh air blowing over the radiator, but I don't want to suck in the air from behind my PC. Any thoughts?


Yes you can plug it directly into the psu, thats how i have mine









And yea you can have it exhausting the hot air out, but you might just try both ways and see how you get better temps, some people prefer each way and have their reasons


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> I have an H50 being delivered today and I have a question. From what I understand, I want to plug the pump into a fan header that is not controlled by the motherboard. My question is, can I plug it into a molex adapter and have it running full blast from the PSU?


This is what I did and have the fan connected to header instead so that I can adjust the speed for noise level.
Quote:


> One more thing. I have a Tempest and I am going with push/pull, can I have the radiator at the back of my case as an exhaust? I know I'm supposed to have fresh air blowing over the radiator, but I don't want to suck in the air from behind my PC. Any thoughts?


Browse through this thread and you'll see a majority of them have it set up as an exhaust. From what I understand, those that have tried both intaking and exhausting only saw little difference. Read up on how radiators work to understand why.


----------



## Ceadderman

If you have your GPU Exhausting out the back of the Case go Exhaust. If no external venting for the GPU, try intake. You can also set it up in the 5.25 bays and have it Intake regardless but it will blow the now warm air into your system and could affect your temps that way. The best thing to do is use zips up front and try it in both intake and exhaust everywhere your 120 Radiator will reach. That's the fun of playing with it to find out what works best for you. But do each setup for at least a full day to get a reasonable feedback on what the unit does for your temps.









~Ceadder


----------



## KingMaddog

I was maybe thinking of taking one of my 140mm fans out of the top of my case, and put it there as an intake with the 120mm fans as push/pull. It would work like this.









Green is intake, and red is exhaust. Any thoughts?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> I have an H50 being delivered today and I have a question. From what I understand, I want to plug the pump into a fan header that is not controlled by the motherboard. My question is, can I plug it into a molex adapter and have it running full blast from the PSU? One more thing. I have a Tempest and I am going with push/pull, can I have the radiator at the back of my case as an exhaust? I know I'm supposed to have fresh air blowing over the radiator, but I don't want to suck in the air from behind my PC. Any thoughts?


If you are not going to use your CPU_FAN header for H50 fan, then you can go into BIOS and disable the auto control on the header. This way, you can plug the pump into it and it will run full speed. The advantage is that you can see how fast the pump is running in Windows using software like Fanspeed. Also, if your system can be set to sound an alarm at a particular RPM, then if your pump fails you will get an alarm (or a CPU_FAN error at startup).

Some main boards have more than one fan header you can use, and most headers can be read in windows. Just make sure that, if the header you use can be auto controlled, you turn that control off in BIOS. In fact, some motherboards will give you an error without anything plugged into the CPU_FAN header. Personally I would recommend using one in place of a molex connector.

I agree that you should try both intake and exhaust. Intake should give you a lower CPU temp, but exhaust should give you a lower case temp. Try both and check your temps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> I was maybe thinking of taking one of my 140mm fans out of the top of my case, and put it there as an intake with the 120mm fans as push/pull. It would work like this.
> Green is intake, and red is exhaust. Any thoughts?


That looks pretty good. When I first got my 600T I had an H70 and I installed it the same way, but I used it as exhaust. I tried intake and only got about a 2C difference. It might be different in your case, so give it a try and see how you like it.


----------



## KingMaddog

I will be using the CPU header for the fans. I will be using 2 Cooler Master Excalibur fans, and they have a 4pin header connector. I did turn off fan control on my M/B already, so the system fan header should be fine to use for the pump, correct?


----------



## KingMaddog

Upon further inspection, I noticed that I need to drill holes to mount the 120mm fan on top. What size drill bit will I need?


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> I will be using the CPU header for the fans. I will be using 2 Cooler Master Excalibur fans, and they have a 4pin header connector. I did turn off fan control on my M/B already, so the system fan header should be fine to use for the pump, correct?


I have the Cooler Master Excalibur fans as well how are you liking them?


----------



## KingMaddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I have the Cooler Master Excalibur fans as well how are you liking them?


Didn't use them yet, waiting to get everything ready to switch to the new case. How do you like them?


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> Didn't use them yet, waiting to get everything ready to switch to the new case. How do you like them?


To be honest they move alot of air and keep my cpu cool. I have push/pull on my H100 and I am extremely happy with them


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> I will be using the CPU header for the fans. I will be using 2 Cooler Master Excalibur fans, and they have a 4pin header connector. I did turn off fan control on my M/B already, so the system fan header should be fine to use for the pump, correct?


Yes, the system fan header will be perfect for the pump. If you're using the CPU_FAN header for the fans, make sure it can handle two fans. Your manual should tell you how much current the header can handle and the fan specs should either give you a power rating in Watts or a current rating in Amps.

power = Voltage x current. The CPU_FAN header on my board can only handle an Amp.

If your fans are 4 pin, then they should be PWM fans. You can purchase a PWM splitter, and it will draw power from your psu through a molex connector, and still plug the tac and control lines into the CPU_FAN header for control. This will allow your motherboard to control the fans.

The Fan screws are 6/32 x 1.25", you should be able to match the drill bit by eye.

Here is an example of a PWM splitter:

http://usb.brando.com/pwm-fan-splitter-cable_p01520c032d015.html

I'm using one on my H100 right now.


----------



## KingMaddog

I picked up one of these. Do you think it will work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250915434186?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I can't find my manual to my motherboard, it's in my specs. I'll have to download the PDF and check if I can use this.


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> I picked up one of these. Do you think it will work?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/250915434186?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
> I can't find my manual to my motherboard, it's in my specs. I'll have to download the PDF and check if I can use this.


If its wired correctly I don't see why not. Also, as long as you don't exceed the maximum watts on the PMW plug on your mobo...which good luck finding that number


----------



## KingMaddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> If its wired correctly I don't see why not. Also, as long as you don't exceed the maximum watts on the PMW plug on your mobo...which good luck finding that number


I can't find the numbers anywhere. I hope it'll be okay to try it out. ASUS support is closed till Monday, they should be able to tell me the max watts, right?

I do have till Thursday to get this sorted out since there was a problem with the shipping of my H50.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> I picked up one of these. Do you think it will work?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/250915434186?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
> I can't find my manual to my motherboard, it's in my specs. I'll have to download the PDF and check if I can use this.


Yes, that will work. It will also be drawing all its power from your CPU_FAN header, so just make sure it can handle two fans. You can mod that cable to take power from the PSU, but it takes a little work and a few spare parts. I have done it though:





I modded that one for another build. The one on my H100 is home made. Either type will work, the only difference is where you get the fan power from.

My last ASUS socket 775 mobo had a 1A limit on its CPU_FAN header. My current ASUS socket 1155 board also has a 1A limit but has two CPU_FAN headers. How much power do the fans use?

1 Amp is 12W. If they use more than 6W, or 500mA (0.5A) each you might want to mod that cable.


----------



## KingMaddog

The fans say 0.37A, so I should be okay with the splitter, right?


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> The fans say 0.37A, so I should be okay with the splitter, right?


Well just add the two numbers together. (.37)+(.37)=(.74)

.74amps<1amp

So you should be fine.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> The fans say 0.37A, so I should be okay with the splitter, right?


Yeah, I bet they will be fine at that Amperage. Lets us know your temps when your done (ambient, idle and load), as well as your fan RPMs during idle and load.

Edit:

On my Core 2 Quad 2.5GHz I was getting up to 72c when I was gaming on the stock cooler.

When I overclocked it to 3.3GHz using the H70 in exhaust, under prime95 load I got 55.5c average across the four cores with an ambient of 25c. Just so you have something to compare.


----------



## KingMaddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Yeah, I bet they will be fine at that Amperage. Lets us know your temps when your done (ambient, idle and load), as well as your fan RPMs during idle and load.
> Edit:
> On my Core 2 Quad 2.5GHz I was getting up to 72c when I was gaming on the stock cooler.
> When I overclocked it to 3.3GHz using the H70 in exhaust, under prime95 load I got 55.5c average across the four cores with an ambient of 25c. Just so you have something to compare.


I will definitely post results. I just have to wait till Thursday for delivery of my H50.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> I will definitely post results. I just have to wait till Thursday for delivery of my H50.


It should be good. I actually did the same thing for a few months back when I had my H50 and I was running 3x Yate Loon Highs on my CPU header. (3x.4A = 1.2A) However, my CPU header supports 20-30W max, so I was well within the limits.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> I picked up one of these. Do you think it will work?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/250915434186?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
> 
> I can't find my manual to my motherboard, it's in my specs. I'll have to download the PDF and check if I can use this.


Pretty sure that as long as your fans don't go over 18watts combined you should be fine. I've got Formula IV and could run 2 fans daisied per channel w/o issue. I do have a dead speed channel, but I never ganged fans on it. I did others and they all report speeds just fine.









I ran a splitter like that(still have it) off my PWR header and didn't have a single problem with my fans.









~Ceadder


----------



## Sethy666

For what its worth, Ive been using these splitters (and still do) for ages. Ive had no issues with them.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> I will definitely post results. I just have to wait till Thursday for delivery of my H50.


FYI

In your manual on page 1-28 it says your cpu-fan header will handle a whopping 3.48A or 41.76 Watts. You've got no worries.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> FYI
> In your manual on page 1-28 it says your cpu-fan header will handle a whopping 3.48A or 41.76 Watts. You've got no worries.


WOOT! LOL


----------



## KingMaddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> FYI
> In your manual on page 1-28 it says your cpu-fan header will handle a whopping 3.48A or 41.76 Watts. You've got no worries.


Thanks for the heads up. I must have overlooked that. I have my holes drilled and now I'm just waiting for the cooler, If only I could speed up time. (I hate waiting for something in the mail).


----------



## Mergatroid

Lol, I know how ya feel....


----------



## KingMaddog

I got my H50 today and I am not happy. I bought it on ebay used but never expected to see this. I apologize for the bad pic.










Should I try to use it or send it back? I never had a problem on ebay before till now. The shipper sent it loosely in the original box, and all the screws were free floating in the box. I see no signs of leaks or anything. I only paid $25 for it, but I will file a dispute.

*EDIT:* This is how it looked when I opened the box.


----------



## Krusher33

GOOD GOD! And I thought mine was bad. My Kuhler came with the copper base slightly scratched up. Lapped it and it was gone and possibly improved temps.

But that... now that is horrible. Won't you be told to send product back if you dispute the charge?


----------



## KingMaddog

It doesn't matter if I have to send it back because I didn't get but 2 screws to mount it to the motherboard.


----------



## anubis1127

Anybody have an extra Intel mounting kit they don't need? I guess I can just buy a new set of mounting hardware from Corsair, but I thought I'd check on here first.


----------



## Ceadderman

After seeing that FleaBay H50, I think the guy I sold mine to was quite happy. I sent him the whole thing repacked in the stock packaging with the Pump covered with the plastic cover. I never get rid of the packaging for any of my components though. Never know what the manufacturer wants back in RMA requests.









~Ceadder


----------



## KingMaddog

Well it turns out that I need to buy a mounting kit from Corsair. The price is $18 after shipping. I asked for a $18 refund from the seller to cover the cost of the kit and this is what he said, all in caps.

I JUST WANT TO SAY IM SORRY FOR THE TROUBLE, I THOUGHT EVERYTHING WAS THERE, I WILL ISSUE YOUR REFUND BY THIS EVENING PACIFIC TIME, I BARELY MADE A COUPLE DOLLARS ON THE DARN THING, IN THE SPIRIT OF MAKING RIGHT I WILL REFUND YOU. PLEASE JUST DONT LEAVE ANY NEGATIVE REMARKS I REALLY HATE THOSE







THE REFUND SHOULD COVER THE COST OF THE PARTS NEEDED AS STATED.

Needless to say I got it for free. Now I just need to wait for the mounting kit. Anyone think that I was wrong asking for the refund, or is it justified?


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> Well it turns out that I need to buy a mounting kit from Corsair. The price is $18 after shipping. I asked for a $18 refund from the seller to cover the cost of the kit and this is what he said, all in caps.
> I JUST WANT TO SAY IM SORRY FOR THE TROUBLE, I THOUGHT EVERYTHING WAS THERE, I WILL ISSUE YOUR REFUND BY THIS EVENING PACIFIC TIME, I BARELY MADE A COUPLE DOLLARS ON THE DARN THING, IN THE SPIRIT OF MAKING RIGHT I WILL REFUND YOU. PLEASE JUST DONT LEAVE ANY NEGATIVE REMARKS I REALLY HATE THOSE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE REFUND SHOULD COVER THE COST OF THE PARTS NEEDED AS STATED.
> Needless to say I got it for free. Now I just need to wait for the mounting kit. Anyone think that I was wrong asking for the refund, or is it justified?


Lol with the complete crap that the condition was in, you were completely justified. If he did not have that copper baseplate described in the details of the eBay transaction, you are MORE than justified. Don't get second thoughts, if this guy wants to sell you a piece of s***, he's gonna get s*** back. If it were me, I'd politely wait for the refund, and once you get the refund, give him negative feedback. He deserves it. This is disgusting. On a side note, all caps? Really? Last time I checked you needed to be "18" to sell on eBay.

Really sorry for your bad transaction man. If you could put in a couple extra hours, you can lap that thing and make it good as new!


----------



## KingMaddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Lol with the complete crap that the condition was in, you were completely justified. If he did not have that copper baseplate described in the details of the eBay transaction, you are MORE than justified. Don't get second thoughts, if this guy wants to sell you a piece of s***, he's gonna get s*** back. If it were me, I'd politely wait for the refund, and once you get the refund, give him negative feedback. He deserves it. This is disgusting. On a side note, all caps? Really? Last time I checked you needed to be "18" to sell on eBay.
> Really sorry for your bad transaction man. If you could put in a couple extra hours, you can lap that thing and make it good as new!


Here's the description from the listing.

CORSAIR H50 CPU COOLER HYDRO SERIES HIGH PERFORMANCE

***THIS ITEM IS USED

IT IS IN THE ORIGINAL BOX WITH INSTRUCTIONS, UNIT IS IN WORKING CONDITION

Buyer agrees to pay $9.00 shipping & handling continental USA.
Payment is preferred by paypal,
Payment must be made within 4 days

IF YOU SHOULD HAPPEN TO HAVE ANY ISSUE WITH YOUR ITEM ONCE RECEIVED
PLEASE CONTACT ME FIRST SO I CAN TRY AND RESOLVE ANY PROBLEM FIRST HAND THANK YOU.


----------



## WebsterXC

It is used. That doesn't even begin to describe the way his pet tiger used his H50 as a play toy.

Fully justified. Get your money man


----------



## Sethy666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> Well it turns out that I need to buy a mounting kit from Corsair. The price is $18 after shipping. I asked for a $18 refund from the seller to cover the cost of the kit and this is what he said, all in caps.
> I JUST WANT TO SAY IM SORRY FOR THE TROUBLE, I THOUGHT EVERYTHING WAS THERE, I WILL ISSUE YOUR REFUND BY THIS EVENING PACIFIC TIME, I BARELY MADE A COUPLE DOLLARS ON THE DARN THING, IN THE SPIRIT OF MAKING RIGHT I WILL REFUND YOU. PLEASE JUST DONT LEAVE ANY NEGATIVE REMARKS I REALLY HATE THOSE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE REFUND SHOULD COVER THE COST OF THE PARTS NEEDED AS STATED.
> Needless to say I got it for free. Now I just need to wait for the mounting kit. Anyone think that I was wrong asking for the refund, or is it justified?


Dont start second guessing yourself... you where right in asking for a refund.

Id be ashamed to offer something like that for sale... hell, I dont think I could sell something that bad.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> It is used. *That doesn't even begin to describe the way his pet tiger used his H50 as a play toy.*
> 
> Fully justified. Get your money man












Too true. Gonna have to clean up that cooling plate first before you can begin to use it though. He should get some sandpaper and run it up and down the plate a few times. He'll need a mirror (flattest surface possible), some tape to fix the paper to the mirror and a lot of patience for the slow pace it takes to run that cooler over the paper without it skipping. I had to secure the radiator to my forearm to keep it supported. Those gouges are really bad. Never seen anything like that before.









~Ceadder


----------



## KingMaddog

I never lapped anything before. I did see vids on youtube, but I'm not too sure I can do this. I know the cooler is officially free now (received refund this morning) but I did have to purchase the mounting kit from Corsair, and I don't want to ruin this.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> I JUST WANT TO SAY IM SORRY FOR THE TROUBLE, I THOUGHT EVERYTHING WAS THERE, I WILL ISSUE YOUR REFUND BY THIS EVENING PACIFIC TIME, I BARELY MADE A COUPLE DOLLARS ON THE DARN THING, IN THE SPIRIT OF MAKING RIGHT I WILL REFUND YOU. PLEASE JUST DONT LEAVE ANY NEGATIVE REMARKS I REALLY HATE THOSE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE REFUND SHOULD COVER THE COST OF THE PARTS NEEDED AS STATED.


He's freaking lying... wait for refund, then leave negative explaining poor condition and missing parts. The description said original packaging and so it's assumed everything is there... to me that's how it is anyways.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> I never lapped anything before. I did see vids on youtube, but I'm not too sure I can do this. I know the cooler is officially free now (received refund this morning) but I did have to purchase the mounting kit from Corsair, and I don't want to ruin this.


Eazy peazy. I was quite concerned at first so i tried it on some old socket 939 rig I had first. Rebooted and it works great. Now I have confidence enough that I pretty much do it without worries.

I bought my Kuhler used and its base was pretty scratched up. Bought a kit at an auto parts store that had 220-400-800-1000 grits sandpapers. Then with that I bought a 2000 grit sandpaper. For surface to put the sand paper on, I had some pieces of glass taken from picture frames that I bought for $1.99 at a goodwill store.

I'm not sure how to rest the radiator on the forearm though. I had the sandpaper attached to glass with it all clamped to table. Then held radiator in my left hand while lapping with my right and took my time to make sure I don't get all crooked.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> He's freaking lying... wait for refund, then leave negative explaining poor condition and missing parts. The description said original packaging and so it's assumed everything is there... to me that's how it is anyways.
> .


There are alot of knuckleheads on eBay (BUYERS BE AWARE/SMART), BUT if he comes through WITH HIS REFUND then I wouldn't "Ding" his REP, but describe feedback something like this ["Item NOT as described but willing to make right"] and put a "Neautral" rating so people don't miss it?
Did the seller have 100% pos feedback and how many transactions? I do a lot of bussiness on eBay and for me a "Negative" feedback is the KISS OF DEATH ... so if this guy is a "newb" and honestly wants to make it right, maybe you can cut him some slack and he will LEARN HIS LESSON!
Link him to this thread!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> He's freaking lying... wait for refund, then leave negative explaining poor condition and missing parts. The description said original packaging and so it's assumed everything is there... to me that's how it is anyways.
> .
> 
> 
> 
> There are alot of knuckleheads on eBay (BUYERS BE AWARE/SMART), BUT if he comes through WITH HIS REFUND then I wouldn't "Ding" his REP, but describe feedback something like this ["Item NOT as described but willing to make right"] and put a "Neautral" rating so people don't miss it?
> Did the seller have 100% pos feedback and how many transactions? I do a lot of bussiness on eBay and for me a "Negative" feedback is the KISS OF DEATH ... so if this guy is a "newb" and honestly wants to make it right, maybe you can cut him some slack and he will LEARN HIS LESSON!
> Link him to this thread!
Click to expand...

This.

If he's n00b give positive feedback(seeing he made it right) for this one.

If average give neutral feedback. Seeing he made it right.

If experienced, trash away. Ther is no reason an experienced seller should even be listing an item the way that was listed. Refunding doesn't absolve seller of negligent listing. I figure if he's got lots of sales, how many of them were like this one. That's my reasoning for trashing Experienced seller. How many other people has something like this happened to and how many of them didn't give bad review because he refunded. Then how many people just don't say anything at all and take it in the keester?









~Ceadder


----------



## KingMaddog

Here's his feedback rating. 99.8%

1 month 6 months 12 months
Positive feedback rating Positive 153 799 986
Neutral feedback rating Neutral 0 2 3
Negative feedback rating Negative 1 2 2

I did get my refund, and I just have to wait to get my new mounting hardware from Corsair. UPS ground from CA to FL.

On to lapping this thing, it just scares me to start sanding this because I don't know what I'm doing when it comes to this.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> Here's his feedback rating. 99.8%
> 
> 1 month 6 months 12 months
> Positive feedback rating Positive 153 799 986
> Neutral feedback rating Neutral 0 2 3
> Negative feedback rating Negative 1 2 2
> 
> I did get my refund, and I just have to wait to get my new mounting hardware from Corsair. UPS ground from CA to FL.
> 
> On to lapping this thing, it just scares me to start sanding this because I don't know what I'm doing when it comes to this.


986 ratings deserves a bad rating imho. It's not like he's a n00b at FleaBay. But if/when you leave the bad rating leave information that shows he did make it right.









As far as lapping the plate goes, check YouTube for lapping tutorials. Watch everything you can religously so you can get a feel for it. If you take a regular piece of paper and tape it down to a glass surface and run the cooler across that as you watch you can build up some muscle memory and get a feel for how fast you can go without the pump bump shifting on the paper. The point of the glass is to use the flattest surface possible. If it bump shifts it's not going to be a flat surface.









Hope this helps.









~Ceadder


----------



## mordocai rp

anyone interested in a modded h50?


----------



## KingMaddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> As far as lapping the plate goes, check YouTube for lapping tutorials. Watch everything you can religously so you can get a feel for it. If you take a regular piece of paper and tape it down to a glass surface and run the cooler across that as you watch you can build up some muscle memory and get a feel for how fast you can go without the pump bump shifting on the paper. The point of the glass is to use the flattest surface possible. If it bump shifts it's not going to be a flat surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I watched a few videos and noticed that some guys use a few drops of water on the sandpaper. Should I go ahead and use a few drops of water myself?


----------



## Ceadderman

You can but I really don't recommend it because you won't be able to get the block up to a speed where water will be of any benefit. Although wet sanding is also good for the removal of particulates from the surface of the project. I recommend just using a vinegar/distilled solution with about 10% Isopropyl alcohol. The vinegar/distilled is used to wipe off the surface while the alcohol is to aid in drying after you've cleaned it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> anyone interested in a modded h50?


What kind of coolant did you run in it and what are you wanting for it? I might be interested. PM me with your specifics to keep us both out of hot doo doo with the Mods.









~Ceadder


----------



## KingMaddog

I just finished lapping my H50 and decided to post pics of my first time lapping something.

Before.









After.









Not bad if I ask myself. What do you all think?

*EDIT:*+REP for those who gave me good advice. You were a big help.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> I just finished lapping my H50 and decided to post pics of my first time lapping something.
> Before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad if I ask myself. What do you all think?
> *EDIT:*+REP for those who gave me good advice. You were a big help.


You need to run some fine grit sand paper on that thing and shine it up.. you should be able to see the reflection of a coin in it without any haze.. it should be mirror finish


----------



## Krusher33

Very nice! I can't believe how bad it was scratched before too... just... wow! How the...?


----------



## KingMaddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> You need to run some fine grit sand paper on that thing and shine it up.. you should be able to see the reflection of a coin in it without any haze.. it should be mirror finish


The finest I could get at the auto parts store was 1000 grit. What grit do you suggest? Would a clay bar for cars work?


----------



## Krusher33

Try another auto parts store. The Advanced Auto Parts I go to has 2000 grits and 3000 grits available.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> The finest I could get at the auto parts store was 1000 grit. What grit do you suggest? Would a clay bar for cars work?


1200 grit and wet sand it


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> The finest I could get at the auto parts store was 1000 grit. What grit do you suggest? Would a clay bar for cars work?


Nice job! Feels pretty dang good to do it yourself Ehhh







... I remember my 1st lap job about 10 years ago :O Pun intended? You now have a serviceable coldplate! ... but for many of us you are only halfway there, go for the mirror finish! BUT DO NOT use a clay bar it can leave micro residue. Stay with the "Glass" surface and then I prefer to go "Wet" ... 2000 even 4000 grit ...

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ARHV7E/ref=asc_df_B004ARHV7E1936949?smid=AS9TMMX2PSD5N&tag=pgmp-1587-14-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395109&creativeASIN=B004ARHV7E

http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&keywords=4000%20grit%20sandpaper&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3A4000%20grit%20sandpaper&page=1

Make sure to check your work with a "straight edge" for flatness before going on into the fine/polishing phase ... Note: if the surface is "flat" and you want to go ahead and mount it for a test drive until you aquire the super fine grit paper, I'd highly recommend that ...

Your eBay seller is obviously "Experienced" so your call to go neutral or negative ... I'd lean toward negative BUT a very positive explanation for remedy/fix ... as previously suggested


----------



## KingMaddog

I ended up finding a 3000 grit polishing disc and this is the best I could do.










Now I wait for the mounting hardware to get here so I can try this bad boy out.


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> I ended up finding a 3000 grit polishing disc and this is the best I could do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I wait for the mounting hardware to get here so I can try this bad boy out.


I'd say that thing looks pretty good, especially consider the condition it was it. Now you just have to lap you're CPU, and you'll be in for some pretty sweet temps.


----------



## crash01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> I just finished lapping my H50 and decided to post pics of my first time lapping something.
> Before.


Good result!
I have bought used too and i had same problem







and this is mine:



I have seen ur final pic, so good!
Well done!


----------



## KingMaddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crash01*
> 
> Good result!
> I have bought used too and i had same problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and this is mine:
> 
> I have seen ur final pic, so good!
> Well done!


Thanks, I can't wait to try it out. I purchased the mounting kit yesterday early A.M. (8 eastern, 5 pacific) and it hasn't shipped yet. I hope it doesn't take another week.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> I ended up finding a 3000 grit polishing disc and this is the best I could do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I wait for the mounting hardware to get here so I can try this bad boy out.


Awesome results. I wasn't gonna hold out much hope for that plate but you put some new life into it. Great job.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crash01*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> I just finished lapping my H50 and decided to post pics of my first time lapping something.
> 
> *snip*
> 
> Not bad if I ask myself. What do you all think?
> *EDIT:*+REP for those who gave me good advice. You were a big help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good result!
> I have bought used too and i had same problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and this is mine:
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen ur final pic, so good!
> 
> Well done!
Click to expand...

Excellent. Glad to see the community comes together to achieve such excellent results.









~Ceadder


----------



## crash01

My results are in 3d modding H50
















My h50 is modded


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> I ended up finding a 3000 grit polishing disc and this is the best I could do.
> *snip*
> Now I wait for the mounting hardware to get here so I can try this bad boy out.


Ha ha ha, nice! Especially when you were quite concerned about doing it in the first place.


----------



## KingMaddog

I just got my tracking for the mounting hardware for my H50 and I have to wait till next Thursday to try this out. If I wanted it sooner it would have cost $27 for shipping. ridiculous.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> After seeing that FleaBay H50, I think the guy I sold mine to was quite happy. I sent him the whole thing repacked in the stock packaging with the Pump covered with the plastic cover. I never get rid of the packaging for any of my components though. Never know what the manufacturer wants back in RMA requests.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Agree 100%. I have a pile of boxes here from all my stuff. Never know when you'll need it, and people you sell stuff to are happy when they see it's been taken good care of.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> Needless to say I got it for free. Now I just need to wait for the mounting kit. Anyone think that I was wrong asking for the refund, or is it justified?


Completely justified. That H50 was in really rough shape.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> I ended up finding a 3000 grit polishing disc and this is the best I could do.
> 
> Now I wait for the mounting hardware to get here so I can try this bad boy out.


You did a great job on that. Very well done.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> I just got my tracking for the mounting hardware for my H50 and I have to wait till next Thursday to try this out. If I wanted it sooner it would have cost $27 for shipping. ridiculous.


That's too bad. I know how you feel, itching to try out a cool part you modded or purchased. I would have sent you my spares but the H50 I have here is using the Intel socket 775 mounts.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Well this is one of my first mods and first REAL posts here at OCN. Here's what I've done to my H50, basically the same thing as Willhemmens, just a different reservoir. Currently, I've still got the stock fan on the radiator as an intake, however I plan to switch it with a Gentle Typhoon or Delta fan in the very near future. This project is my first rig build over a gradual span of time therefore at this moment in time, I don't have a video card so I haven't been able to look at temps or really test the cooling power of the loop. I have done an 8-hour test though, and it worked flawlessly. When I get my video card and OS installed, I'll be sure to post my result temps. (Cable management is a disaster right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Alright so, finally a Friday so I don't have to worry about homework! I finalyl completed the rig tonight, I'm very happy. There have been some adjustments though. I'm still using the fan as an intake, but I got a free Delta 192CFM fan from work so I popped that thing on my fan controller. Runs pretty quiet at about 3/8 speed.

I set all my fans for half speed, including the Delta and the two top exhausts. There is some noise, but I'm really questioning what the hell I'm doing if my CPU is running at 100% for a long period of time. DO remember, this is not overclocked so I'm running the stock 3.2Ghz clock, but I do plan on overclocking. It's getting late up here in New York so I'll be playing around with that tomorrow night. Anywho, resulting tems (can post pics and proof later upon request):

No Prime 95 (Approx. 3% CPU Usage across all 6 cores): 9 degrees Celcius MAX
Prime 95 (CPU: 100% on 6 threads): 21 degrees Celcius MAX

Extremely happy with these temps, especially with my rad fan being only half speed. Didn't try out full speeds or any of the such, I'm getting really tired. If you guys have any requests for data you want me to try out, let me know and I'd be happy to experiement. If anyone wants the 101CFM BGears fan that was originally on the radiator, or the stock Corsair, PM me and we'll have a blast.


----------



## klewlis1

I just bought a H60 and this is my first water cooler. I wanted to ask what are some decent fans i can buy for around $10 each and would these fans work they seem to have pretty good static pressure.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835168006 or these http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835132022 , im trying to keep the noise down!!!
I blew all my money on a new mobo and the water cooler and forgot about fans so i have like $23 to spend on 2 fans for my H60


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klewlis1*
> 
> I just bought a H60 and this is my first water cooler. I wanted to ask what are some decent fans i can buy for around $10 each and would these fans work they seem to have pretty good static pressure.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835168006 or these http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835132022, im trying to keep the noise down!!!
> I blew all my money on a new mobo and the water cooler and forgot about fans so i have like $23 to spend on 2 fans for my H60


go to amazon and grab two yate loon medium speed fans. they should be quiet enough and still have very good static pressure.







they are well under 10 bucks a piece, I'm guessing more like 6ish


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> No Prime 95 (Approx. 3% CPU Usage across all 6 cores): 9 degrees Celcius MAX
> Prime 95 (CPU: 100% on 6 threads): 21 degrees Celcius MAX


I assume those are deltas?

Sweet build.


----------



## kevingreenbmx

Hey Killhouse,

was looking at the OP of this thread and thought you might like to add this thread to your list of useful links:

http://www.overclock.net/t/558909/simple-120mm-radiator-mount-mod/0_20

was a rad mounting mod I did for my H50 way back before I switched to a full loop and became staff and such.


----------



## dartuil

Hello men , im planning to buy a H100 , but i want to change the tubes.
Can you give me the size of the tubes cant find it









Thanks


----------



## WebsterXC

Don't know if it's entirely possible to change the H100's tubes due to the way the pump unit works, but you can try.

If you were to click on any of mod links they would say that the tubes are 1/4" ID. You can buy this size at any local home depot or lowes in 10ft and 20ft bundles. Pick yourself up a 10ft bundle, no need to spend tons of extra money and shipping on brand name tubing.

Good luck, make sure to post pics! =)


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevingreenbmx*
> 
> Hey Killhouse,
> was looking at the OP of this thread and thought you might like to add this thread to your list of useful links:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/558909/simple-120mm-radiator-mount-mod/0_20
> was a rad mounting mod I did for my H50 way back before I switched to a full loop and became staff and such.


Did something similar on my guest computer last fall:



Push fan, shroud, H50 rad, pull fan. It's actually pretty simple with just one (or two) junk fans to use as shrouds. You can also get 140mm to 120mm fan mounting converters that will also act as a shroud. Great for cases that come with 140mm fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> Hello men , im planning to buy a H100 , but i want to change the tubes.
> Can you give me the size of the tubes cant find it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Is there any reason you want to replace the tubes? I realize they're a little stiff, but they're supposedly "low permeability" to reduce or eliminate evaporation. Just curious.


----------



## .theMetal

I hacked up an old fan just this evening and used it as a shroud on the push side of my h50, dropped temp 1-2c, room temp also went up about 1c from last night so i think I saw ~2c drop.







should have done it a while ago


----------



## Krusher33

Yeah I can see the difference with shrouds. For now I have to do a pull set up with mine. Did it with a shroud at first but the entire thing was hovering over my VRM's blocking any airflow they were getting. When I removed the shroud I saw a good 4c difference. So I'm brainstorming how I can do it in side my wee little case.


----------



## XPD541

Seeing all the good results with Lapping, I think I may just do that to a couple of my H50's.









Very nice. If I DO lap mine, I'll be sure to post some screenshots of before and after temps on my i7-920.


----------



## WebsterXC

I mean the H50 already has a pretty impressive base, would lapping help even more? It just seems like temps would be minimal, Corsair did a great job on their bases.


----------



## sinnerg

I lapped my PhenomII 955BE and the H50 base soon after I got the H50. I have to admit I did not see anything in terms of a temperature drop, but what was noticeable was that it seemed to responde to cooling quicker. That is, temps would drop quicker than they did prior to lapping.


----------



## KingMaddog

I was finally able to install my H50 the other day, got a new job with 12 hour shifts so I had no time. My temps didn't decrease at all from my air cooler on idle, but when I stress tested with prime95 overnight, I woke up to see that the temps only went up a few degrees on all cores. I idle at 34, 34, 37, 37 on cores, and 34 on CPU. Only core 1 went up to 40, core 2 went up to 35, core 3 went up to 39, and core 4 stayed the same. I only have a 10% overclock due to my MOBO and hope to get a better board soon, or just upgrade everything and still use my H50. I will be lapping my CPU to see what happens and will post back. I just hope I find the time to do it.


----------



## Krusher33

I think you all are nuts if you think it's supposed to drop idle temps... just saying.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> I was finally able to install my H50 the other day, got a new job with 12 hour shifts so I had no time. My temps didn't decrease at all from my air cooler on idle, but when I stress tested with prime95 overnight, I woke up to see that the temps only went up a few degrees on all cores.


That's very much the idea. It takes longer to get to max temp compared to air coolers.
Quote:


> I idle at 34, 34, 37, 37 on cores, and 34 on CPU. Only core 1 went up to 40, core 2 went up to 35, core 3 went up to 39, and core 4 stayed the same. I only have a 10% overclock due to my MOBO and hope to get a better board soon, or just upgrade everything and still use my H50. I will be lapping my CPU to see what happens and will post back. I just hope I find the time to do it.


Please let us know if it was already flat or not before lapping.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Yeah I can see the difference with shrouds. For now I have to do a pull set up with mine. Did it with a shroud at first but the entire thing was hovering over my VRM's blocking any airflow they were getting. When I removed the shroud I saw a good 4c difference. So I'm brainstorming how I can do it in side my wee little case.


That is a good point, I will have to get some extra air on my vrm's I might find a tiny fan or something. I have been wondering why my temps were not quite as good as in my previous case, but it must be I'm now lacking a 200mm fan on the side blowing directly at the the mobo.


----------



## KingMaddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I think you all are nuts if you think it's supposed to drop idle temps... just saying.


I wasn't expecting to see a difference while idle, and I know that the ambient air is still what cools the water in the radiator. I still wonder how some people say that their idle temps went down. I like the results of this cooler and look forward to diving in to a custom loop in the future.


----------



## Mergatroid

I have seen differences in idle temps between stock coolers and the H70.

My first closed loop water cooler was the H70 and my idle temps dropped into the upper 20s when I installed the H70. The stock cooler would always have my idle temp hovering at about 30c, but the H70 dropped it so it never hit 30c and would hover at about 26c with the same ambient. When I increased the clock from 2.5GHz to 3.3GHz under load it also had the effect of increasing my idle clock from 16GHz to 2.5GHz which increased my idle temp to about 34c. Systems that use "turbo" may not see any difference because the idle clock does not change when you overclock if you're simply increasing the multiplier.

That was switching from stock Intel cooler on a core 2 quad to the H70. I do agree that anyone with a decent air cooler would not likely get any idle difference, but the difference between stock and the H70 was measurable.

Back in the thread, you can find people who claim lapping made a huge difference in their temps.

Example:

http://www.overclock.net/t/612436/official-corsair-h50-h70-club/17420#post_13198758

We never see before and after screenshots of temps though. I haven't tried it myself.

Personally, I don't see how anyone can heap such praise on Corsair regarding the surface of the water block. I don't think it's anything special. I've seen other companies make the surface of their blocks much better. I've used an H50 (still have it), H70 and an H100 and none of them have amazingly polished blocks.


----------



## sinnerg

I agree, the blocks surface finish is nothing special. Lots of machine marks.

I ripped the 135mm fan out of my PSU this evening and put in an old 140mm Coolermaster I had lying around. The old fan was noisy and seen better days. Last night I fitted a DeepCool V400 to my simple GT220 card. It was time to silence things down a bit.

Now the H50 pump buzzing is driving me nuts.







Do all of these pumps buzz? How do the H60/H70/H100 pumps compare in this regard?


----------



## Mergatroid

My H70 was silent. My H50 buzzes. My H100 seems fairly quiet. I seem to hear a little rattle from my H100 once in a while.


----------



## WebsterXC

Mine buzzes but you have to basically have your ear next to it. After about 15-20 hours of usage I stopped hearing it, I can only hear the liquid start flowing when I turn on the computer.


----------



## .theMetal

maybe the fans on my rig are too loud, but i've never heard a buzz from my h50


----------



## sinnerg

I think it's the full alumin(i)um chassis and stupid fully vented sides which lend towards the buzzing noise being so prominent now.

I'm on a "silencing mission" this week. I'll be living with the hum of a SanAce 120 monster fan on the h50, so the only way is to quieten down the rest of the pieces.

PS: CM SickleFlow case fans suck.


----------



## XPD541

There are some good rubber grommets at most hardware stores for cheap.









Worked wonders for me.


----------



## sinnerg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XPD541*
> 
> There are some good rubber grommets at most hardware stores for cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked wonders for me.


Used to mount motherboard?


----------



## Krusher33

I just buy rubber washers.


----------



## TylerRadford

So I didn't feel like scrolling through all 2023 pages







, but I was looking at getting either the H50, or H70, I was just wondering if anyone else has put one of these in a HAF 922.

If so, where is the best place to mount it?

Pics are a plus!


----------



## sinnerg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TylerRadford*
> 
> So I didn't feel like scrolling through all 2023 pages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but I was looking at getting either the H50, or H70, I was just wondering if anyone else has put one of these in a HAF 922.
> If so, where is the best place to mount it?
> Pics are a plus!


Using the thread search tool gives this:

http://www.overclock.net/t/612436/official-corsair-h50-h70-club/19040

H100 in a HAF922. H50/H70 can be mounted on the rear 120mm intake.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TylerRadford*
> 
> So I didn't feel like scrolling through all 2023 pages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but I was looking at getting either the H50, or H70, I was just wondering if anyone else has put one of these in a HAF 922.
> If so, where is the best place to mount it?
> Pics are a plus!


The H50 is nice for the price. The H70 performance is almost matched by the H60. The current H70 Core costs more than the H60 and doesn't come with fans. In short, if I was going to purchase a new Corsair cooler right now I think my choice, under $100, would be the H60. I have an H50, and it's OK but I would have bought the H60 if it was in stock when I needed it. The pump/block in the H50 is fairly large. I like the smaller blocks of the newer products.

I had an H70 and it actually worked really well, had a small block and was quiet. It's a little thicker than the H60 or H50 though. I do like the H70 block, it looks pretty sweet and I've seen people use the H70 for cooling video cards because the block will fit between cards. That could be an advantage down the road.

One thing I like about both the H50 and the H60 is that they come with PWM fans. You can plug them into your CPU_FAN header and your mobo will control them.

Here's an H50 mounted in a HAF 922:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8AgTS4cvKA

Look at about 2:04


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnerg*
> 
> I lapped my PhenomII 955BE and the H50 base soon after I got the H50. I have to admit I did not see anything in terms of a temperature drop, but what was noticeable was that it seemed to responde to cooling quicker. That is, temps would drop quicker than they did prior to lapping.


CPU was probably already flat. It's rare but it does happen.







Did you check it using a straight edge before you lapped it? If not we'll never know now.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I think you all are nuts if you think it's supposed to drop idle temps... just saying.
> 
> 
> 
> I wasn't expecting to see a difference while idle, and I know that the ambient air is still what cools the water in the radiator. I still wonder how some people say that their idle temps went down. I like the results of this cooler and look forward to diving in to a custom loop in the future.
Click to expand...

My idle temps did indeed drop. Of course I was using the stock cooler so take this with a grain of salt. I currently have Hyper 212+ in preparation for full coverage/cpu loop(just need radiator now) and my temps are slightly higher than when I ran a lapped H50 with Push/Pull and single shroud. My Idle temp ran 29-32c with H50. I run Idle at 34c with 212+ now. Under Load H50 ran at about what I am running now with the 212+ which is ~45c. If you want a true reading of what your temps are, run the stock cooler for a couple days and then swap back the H50. You'll see a definite drop in temps accross the board, unless CPU was already flat.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnerg*
> 
> I agree, the blocks surface finish is nothing special. Lots of machine marks.
> 
> I ripped the 135mm fan out of my PSU this evening and put in an old 140mm Coolermaster I had lying around. The old fan was noisy and seen better days. Last night I fitted a DeepCool V400 to my simple GT220 card. It was time to silence things down a bit.
> 
> Now the H50 pump buzzing is driving me nuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do all of these pumps buzz? How do the H60/H70/H100 pumps compare in this regard?


Try tapping on your tubes a bit with an unsharpened pencil. Or the eraser end if you don't have an unsharpened one. Should sort out that buzzing. Air in the lines will cause it. Rapping on them will/should vibrate the trapped bubbles(corrugated tubing sucks) loose. I would also recommend running with the tubes on the down side of the radiator to trap air in the other end. There is air in these all in one coolers. Can't get away from it without a way to see the actual coolant. i.e. no Reservoir.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnerg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TylerRadford*
> 
> So I didn't feel like scrolling through all 2023 pages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but I was looking at getting either the H50, or H70, I was just wondering if anyone else has put one of these in a HAF 922.
> If so, where is the best place to mount it?
> Pics are a plus!
> 
> 
> 
> Using the thread search tool gives this:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/612436/official-corsair-h50-h70-club/19040
> 
> H100 in a HAF922. H50/H70 can be mounted on the rear 120mm intake.
Click to expand...

It would take you days to wade through the club but have you done your search in HAF thread? Quite a few of us(not yours truly) run or ran Hydro Series Coolers in their 922.









I'm not sure where to look here but I am one of those people relating temps lowering after lapping CPU and Cooler. I live up in the NW where temps are pretty reasonable and not much fluctuation in them. I'd have to dig for "proof" but I posted it in this thread a few times so if you run across my contributions here I'm sure you'll see it.









There are mitigating factors as to how a CPU can go below it's initial reported Idle temp. Such as flatness, ambient temp and setup. If the CPU is already flat, it's not going to make much of a difference one way or the other. Maybe ~3c temp fluctuation from stock to lapped. Check it with a razor knife refill or single edge razor. If you see light in the middle of the CPU it's raised. If you see light around the edges with none in the center the CPU is domed. Mine was domed with raised edges so I had light between the edge and the middle of the CPU.



Spoiler: My lapped 955 BE



Stock CPU









Done right?









Wrong.








See all the low spots? All the chrome?









The blade test can lie to you...

NOW it's done...









100% copper showing. You'll see what you're CPU was like in the lapping process.











Note, as I said, the only true way to know what the difference in temps from stock to lapped is to have run the CPU with the stock cooler and then run the stock cooler lapped and compare the results to the new cooler stock and lapped. My CPU indeed dropped 15c in temps from Stock to lapped @Idle and ~12c under full load. I know this cause I went back to the Stock cooler when I sold the H50. Now I'm on Hyper 212+ and my CPU under full load runs 43c-44 with no heat on and ambient is 20c.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnerg

The centre of my CPU was concave so it wasn't very flat at all. I could only lap up to 2,000 grit paper though.

I'll give tapping the hoses a try and also flip the radiator and see if the clatter goes away. I plan on getting some sound deadening material from a local rubber supplier. Maybe then the faint background clatter won't be an issue.


----------



## klewlis1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> go to amazon and grab two yate loon medium speed fans. they should be quiet enough and still have very good static pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they are well under 10 bucks a piece, I'm guessing more like 6ish


I just ordered 7 Yate Loon High Speed fans the 80 cfm one's, 2 for my H60 and the others for my case, they dropped my case noise to at least half of what it was. Thanks for the help.


----------



## klewlis1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> The H50 is nice for the price. The H70 performance is almost matched by the H60. The current H70 Core costs more than the H60 and doesn't come with fans. In short, if I was going to purchase a new Corsair cooler right now I think my choice, under $100, would be the H60. I have an H50, and it's OK but I would have bought the H60 if it was in stock when I needed it. The pump/block in the H50 is fairly large. I like the smaller blocks of the newer products.
> I had an H70 and it actually worked really well, had a small block and was quiet. It's a little thicker than the H60 or H50 though. I do like the H70 block, it looks pretty sweet and I've seen people use the H70 for cooling video cards because the block will fit between cards. That could be an advantage down the road.
> One thing I like about both the H50 and the H60 is that they come with PWM fans. You can plug them into your CPU_FAN header and your mobo will control them.
> Here's an H50 mounted in a HAF 922:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8AgTS4cvKA
> Look at about 2:04


I just picked up a H60 at Tiger Direct for $51.99 and that was without a rebate or anything, i'm not sure if they are still running those at that price but i had to get one.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klewlis1*
> 
> I just ordered 7 Yate Loon High Speed fans the 80 cfm one's, 2 for my H60 and the others for my case, they dropped my case noise to at least half of what it was. Thanks for the help.


awesome! glad to help.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klewlis1*
> 
> I just ordered 7 Yate Loon High Speed fans the 80 cfm one's, 2 for my H60 and the others for my case, they dropped my case noise to at least half of what it was. Thanks for the help.


The High speeds are pretty loud unless you have a fan controller running them at around 900-1100RPM. I used to have them as P/P on my H50 and they would cool very well for the lower RPMs, only a few degrees higher than when run at 1600-2200RPM speeds.


----------



## sinnerg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Try tapping on your tubes a bit with an unsharpened pencil. Or the eraser end if you don't have an unsharpened one. Should sort out that buzzing. Air in the lines will cause it. Rapping on them will/should vibrate the trapped bubbles(corrugated tubing sucks) loose. I would also recommend running with the tubes on the down side of the radiator to trap air in the other end. There is air in these all in one coolers. Can't get away from it without a way to see the actual coolant. i.e. no Reservoir.


I fitted a 25mm shroud to the H50 last night, then tried to rotate the radiator so the tubes were on the bottom. Unfortunately I have a Thermaltake HR-05/IFX NB cooler in place and the tubes will need to run under it and in contact with it. This HR-05 gets damn hot (it's passive). I want to replace this thing with some Enzotech sinks at some point when money permits.

I have to admit the shroud made a massive difference as the SanAce 120 has a massive dead spot behind its motor. I got 29C after boot, usually 31-32C. It has also allowed me to run the SanAce at 2% speed, ticking over on around 500rpm and currently keeping at 34C in a 24C room. Those are idle temps, by the way. Will do a stress test shortly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> There are mitigating factors as to how a CPU can go below it's initial reported Idle temp. Such as flatness, ambient temp and setup. If the CPU is already flat, it's not going to make much of a difference one way or the other. Maybe ~3c temp fluctuation from stock to lapped. Check it with a razor knife refill or single edge razor. If you see light in the middle of the CPU it's raised. If you see light around the edges with none in the center the CPU is domed. Mine was domed with raised edges so I had light between the edge and the middle of the CPU.


Worked on GFX card this weekend, so refitted the DeepCool cooler using AS5 paste. Horrible temps and I'm not interested in 200 hours of cure time. Took the thing off last night, put on some old Antec Formula 5 paste (apparently same as AS5, but thicker due to end of tube). This time I spread the paste and didn't use the dot method. Then put 1mm spacers under the mounting screws which would get me more clamping pressure on the GPU. Unbelievable difference. With AS5 and stock clamp it would fluctuate wildly. Right now, believe it or not, the thing is reporting a 24C temp in a 24C room. I think this has more to do with the clamping pressure than the TIMs. Not much of the AS5 had squeezed out under the heatsink when I removed it.

So I think what might be worthwhile doing on the H50 is getting more clamping pressure out of it. I didn't use the H50's AM3 bracket, but opted for the original AMD bracket. It has lower standoffs than the H50. I'm thinking it might be worth reseating the H50 and somehow spacing the bracket from the board a bit more which would allow some extra clamping pressure.

Anyone found that higher clamping pressure provided better results?


----------



## Ceadderman

To be honest I've not heard more clamping pressure makes a difference. Of course I don't think that many people have thought of it. When I first got my H50, I was having problems with my system running properly. I thought the H50 was too tight against the CPU. System ran great on its side but soon as it got stood up, it wouldn't POST at all. So I tightened it up and it worked. So I'd power it down and sure nuff system wouldn't POST the next time. Thought it was my MainBoard. So I RMA'ed it(within 30 day grace period) after awhile don't know how long, I figured out the problem was an extra standoff that I didn't notice was under the board grounding it.









Happens to the best of us though. You think you have 9 but reality is there are 10 under the board.







lolz

~Ceadder


----------



## sinnerg

More clamping pressure should try and get more metal to metal contact which I think is what one really wants. Get better surface flatness, squeeze more TIM out.

I hear you on the silly mistakes.







I had a huge 2lbs Thermaltake copper cooler on my previous board and during a re-seat I managed to get some component pins through the thing rubber pad for the mounting bracket. The board still had alot of through-hole components with some nasty looking joints. It shorted the board out and I was kicking myself. Even tried different CPUs and had supplier test, but the board would not start up at all. Supplier didn't replace it so I had to buy a brand new one and a brand new CPU as well (wound up with the last Barton in the country). Funny thing was that about 2 months later the board and CPU came back to life after having sat around. To this day I'm still not sure how it happened. I got 5 good years from it before upgrading.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnerg*
> 
> ...
> So I think what might be worthwhile doing on the H50 is getting more clamping pressure out of it. I didn't use the H50's AM3 bracket, but opted for the original AMD bracket. It has lower standoffs than the H50. I'm thinking it might be worth reseating the H50 and somehow spacing the bracket from the board a bit more which would allow some extra clamping pressure.
> Anyone found that higher clamping pressure provided better results?


I used some washers under my H100 backplate too. I only noticed a difference of 1 or two c. The H100 mounting screws seemed to bottom out on the backplate shafts before the block was really tight, almost like the motherboard wasn't thick enough. It was enough for me to notice the block didn't seem really tight. It feels a lot tighter now.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnerg*
> 
> ...
> So I think what might be worthwhile doing on the H50 is getting more clamping pressure out of it. I didn't use the H50's AM3 bracket, but opted for the original AMD bracket. It has lower standoffs than the H50. I'm thinking it might be worth reseating the H50 and somehow spacing the bracket from the board a bit more which would allow some extra clamping pressure.
> Anyone found that higher clamping pressure provided better results?
> 
> 
> 
> I used some washers under my H100 backplate too. I only noticed a difference of 1 or two c. The H100 mounting screws seemed to bottom out on the backplate shafts before the block was really tight, almost like the motherboard wasn't thick enough. It was enough for me to notice the block didn't seem really tight. It feels a lot tighter now.
Click to expand...

Wow the worm has turned for the Hydro Series. My H50 fit too tight to the board so it was difficult to mount the pump to the CPU. Mostly cause the supplied tape was way too thick.

And now the H100 is too loose.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnerg

That's why I chucked the H50's backplate and used the original AM3 backplate. It's standoffs were lower.

After getting some nice temps yesterday I got home to a PC that felt way too hot and CPU temps idling around 36-37C in a 25C room. Getting heat soak in the chassis it seems. That damn Thermalright is much too close to the radiator now with the shroud installed. Stupid mounting doesn't allow fitting a fan to it either, so it's just baking the case. Hard drives fairly hot too.

I'm running the H50 as intake. I still need to get another exhaust fan fitted somewhere. I'm going to flip the H50 fan this evening and see what happens.

Then ... I friggin' need some money to order some Antec Formula 7 and some Enzotech sinks!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnerg*
> 
> That's why I chucked the H50's backplate and used the original AM3 backplate. It's standoffs were lower.
> 
> After getting some nice temps yesterday I got home to a PC that felt way too hot and CPU temps idling around 36-37C in a 25C room. Getting heat soak in the chassis it seems. That damn Thermalright is much too close to the radiator now with the shroud installed. Stupid mounting doesn't allow fitting a fan to it either, so it's just baking the case. Hard drives fairly hot too.
> 
> I'm running the H50 as intake. I still need to get another exhaust fan fitted somewhere. I'm going to flip the H50 fan this evening and see what happens.
> 
> Then ... I friggin' need some money to order some Antec Formula 7 and some Enzotech sinks!


Have you tried running your P/P in Exhaust configuration blowing out the top? I had my P/P mounted in Exhaust and it worked very well. If that heat sink is gonna give off that kind of heat it's not going to shave much in the way of temps to run in Intake where the heat soak can affect your Idle Temp. Imagine having it under full load 24/7.









I don't know how much room you have between your Mainboard and your top fan mount but I would seriously consider setting up camp there.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnerg

I'm not running P/P at the moment. As big as the CM Stacker 830 might seem, the thing is cramped inside. With the 38mm fan and 25mm shroud things start getting close around the CPU.

Annoyingly the Stacker830 only has a top mount PSU and I might have done a bad thing swapping the noisy failing fan for a slower quiet CM 14cm item last week.

Case has a 12cm top vent ahead of PSU, but too far for H50 to reach. Too much power cabling and scaffolding in the way. It does however currently have a old rattly Delta 12cm dangling in there from previous messing around. Think I'll powered it tonight and see how tomorrow goes. It's a pure noise maker even compared to the SanAce monster.

I do have a Thermalright TY-140, but I'm saving it for a future side intake.

The northbridge has always been a cooker even with the HD3300 IGP disabled. That's why I thought the HR-05/IFX passive would make a difference, but seemingly only to my wallet. I want rid of the thing.

Quick question: with exhaust setup, fan before radiator or after the radiator in non P/P?


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnerg*
> 
> I'm not running P/P at the moment. As big as the CM Stacker 830 might seem, the thing is cramped inside. With the 38mm fan and 25mm shroud things start getting close around the CPU.
> Annoyingly the Stacker830 only has a top mount PSU and I might have done a bad thing swapping the noisy failing fan for a slower quiet CM 14cm item last week.
> Case has a 12cm top vent ahead of PSU, but too far for H50 to reach. Too much power cabling and scaffolding in the way. It does however currently have a old rattly Delta 12cm dangling in there from previous messing around. Think I'll powered it tonight and see how tomorrow goes. It's a pure noise maker even compared to the SanAce monster.
> I do have a Thermalright TY-140, but I'm saving it for a future side intake.
> The northbridge has always been a cooker even with the HD3300 IGP disabled. That's why I thought the HR-05/IFX passive would make a difference, but seemingly only to my wallet. I want rid of the thing.
> Quick question: with exhaust setup, fan before radiator or after the radiator in non P/P?


I would put it before seemed to work better for me. also do you have room to mount one of the fans out side of the case? it would push air in to the rad and you would have the fan on the inside pulling. that is what I did in my tiny case, worked very well


----------



## sinnerg

I succumbed to a conventional setup. Rear and top exhaust. Also HR-05 is out and original heatsink is in but a bit loose thanks to no thermal tape. Original tape was junk. Turned top Delta fan on as well.

Only given right now is this Delta fan needs to go!!! It's driving me insane with its rubbish bearing!

Will let this all run on minimum tomorrow and see where it ends up.


----------



## klewlis1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> The High speeds are pretty loud unless you have a fan controller running them at around 900-1100RPM. I used to have them as P/P on my H50 and they would cool very well for the lower RPMs, only a few degrees higher than when run at 1600-2200RPM speeds.


I have a 4 channel fan controller controlling them, but they are no where near as loud as the Ultra Kaze's i was using in my case and on my 212 evo. Its a nice change to be able to hear yourself talk


----------



## sinnerg

Think I'm going to add the 2nd SanAce in a P/P exhaust config tonight. To hell with limited space! Might allow me to keep the speed and noise down while improving cooling.

That junk Delta 120x38 @ 7V got ripped out and all I had spare was the SickleFlow 120x25. What a crappy fan! It's whiny and rattley throughout its speed range.

The Delta showed I need plenty of exhaust air. The effect on board temps, etc, was impressive. Just not sure what CFM it had @ 7V. I'm off to the Sanyo Denki thread to check on their "silent" fans.


----------



## PathOfTheRighteousMan

Like magic... it fits.




So much effort.. not worth it.


----------



## sinnerg

It's a bumper sticker case!









Shouldn't the PSU best be turned upside down?


----------



## cdoublejj

are there mods you can to do the hydro series, like lapping and rad boxes for better temps?


----------



## sinnerg

Yes, this thread is full of information regarding that.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnerg*
> 
> It's a bumper sticker case!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shouldn't the PSU best be turned upside down?


Meh you can run PSU in either up or down. Biggest worry is dropping something metal into the PSU. Other than that with the way cases are made nowadays what with the air being moved around in them it really doesn't matter anymore. Back when we were running 60mm fans and trying to find clear spots we could punch a hole and add more? Oh yeah, running in that configuration wouldn't be advisable. These days, there really aren't many worries about doing so.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnerg

Good point. I wish I had I could mount my PSU at the bottom of my case. Can't believe for the money this stupid Stacker 830 didn't allow that. Even worse was how daft I was to overlook that option when buying it.


----------



## mwl5apv

I had a question in regard to the H series coolers and mounting and their backplates.

The blackplates on these things is,of course, plastic. And it isn't the very best and serving its purpose. I am noticing that when I attach the pump and tighten it down that it flexes my motherboard ever so slightly. I can tell this by the way the RAM fits into the DIMM slots. With the pump off, the ram stick slide into place really smoothly, but with it all together it isn't quite smooth. And you can feel some "binding", so to speak. My questions is.....is this normal with everyone? Or am I torquing the retention screws down too much? If I have it too tight how tight do all of you guys torque everything down?


----------



## sinnerg

Phenom II CPU as in your sig? I didn't notice any issues with RAM fitting after putting the H50 in place. I did however use the original AMD/ASUS mounting bracket instead of the Corsair one because the Corsair standoffs were just too tall compared to stock. If my setup is flexing then I have to admit I've seen no ill effect over the last few years of use.

Then again, I'm only familiar with the H50, not the rest of the H series.


----------



## mwl5apv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnerg*
> 
> Phenom II CPU as in your sig? I didn't notice any issues with RAM fitting after putting the H50 in place. I did however use the original AMD/ASUS mounting bracket instead of the Corsair one because the Corsair standoffs were just too tall compared to stock. If my setup is flexing then I have to admit I've seen no ill effect over the last few years of use.
> Then again, I'm only familiar with the H50, not the rest of the H series.


I have had this situation on my old motherboard and noticed the same thing now on my CH V. But once i put the stock backplate and mounting hardware back on the old motherboard after the swap, I was curious to see how things went together and the RAM slid right into place like it was greased.

pics of using the stock AMD backplate? Did the retention screws on the H50 match the stock backplate or did you have to get new screws? did the threading and screw size on the retention screws match up?


----------



## sinnerg

Yes, the thread size was the same. I had to order my Corsair AMD brackets because the H50 I picked up was prior to them offering it in the kit. Perhaps it was different once included.

I don't think I have pics comparing them. I was fighting and cursing some crazy thick Shin-Etsu at the time. I'll have a look, maybe I have a pic of the old bracket and can take one of the Corsair supplied item.

I think all boards are going to be different and react differently to mounts and mounting pressure.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwl5apv*
> 
> I had a question in regard to the H series coolers and mounting and their backplates.
> 
> The blackplates on these things is,of course, plastic. And it isn't the very best and serving its purpose. I am noticing that when I attach the pump and tighten it down that it flexes my motherboard ever so slightly. I can tell this by the way the RAM fits into the DIMM slots. With the pump off, the ram stick slide into place really smoothly, but with it all together it isn't quite smooth. And you can feel some "binding", so to speak. My questions is.....is this normal with everyone? Or am I torquing the retention screws down too much? If I have it too tight how tight do all of you guys torque everything down?


The backplate on the H100, and I assume the H80, is metal. The H50/70 are plastic. I have owned both and they never flexed my motherboard when I tightened them. I have used that design on three different motherboards and it worked well on all of them.

I have never been good at explaining how tight to make a screw. Without an actual torque wrench it can be fairly subjective. I just tighten them until they don't move any more without making them so tight as to damage something or strip a screw.


----------



## sinnerg

My ASUS AMD and H50 AMD brackets are metal.

I managed to find a pic I took when I did the install of the H50:



Left: ASUS AMD
Right: Corsair H50 AMD

I had to order my AMD brackets and backplate as the kit was prior to Corsair including it.


----------



## hcaz

Hi friends

I am planning to get a H60 and have a push/pull setup with after market fans. My question is, does it make any difference with push/pull setup and will after market fans do a better job than the stock corsair fans? I plan on replacing them with the arctic pwm fans.

Cheers


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hcaz*
> 
> Hi friends
> 
> I am planning to get a H60 and have a push/pull setup with after market fans. My question is, does it make any difference with push/pull setup and will after market fans do a better job than the stock corsair fans? I plan on replacing them with the arctic pwm fans.
> 
> Cheers


Yes, it does indeed make a difference. How much is more determined by your mounting setup(Intake/Exhaust) and whether you run a shroud or not.

Both Acetek and Coolit have been paying attention to what the water cooling community is doing. As almost all the newer liquid coolers are coming with P/P in the box. The AMD and Intel kits(made by the above companies) have P/P I think. I know the AMD kit is P/P.

If you do aftermarket fans(yes these are better) you would probably look at...

Yate Loon Medium to High Speed Silents
Cooler Master R4s'
Gentle Typhoon AP models.

Yate Loons imho are the best bang for your buck fan. They have comparable Static Pressure ratings compared to the R4 and the GT. Also you can get them in your basic Black or LED model. LED model has less flex to it due to being clear. Having run Reds in my H50 Push/Pull I would definitely recommend LED if you're looking for some color. Not too bright either. $4 each or less when purchased in lots of 3 or more.

Cooler Master R4 can be had for a reasonable amount too if you can find someone selling them cheaply. There was a sale not too far back that had them @ $6 each or there abouts. Only come in LED though. So if you're not interested in light that can be a bit of a bother. Still they are worth including in this list due to their Static Pressure and Cost Ratio.

Gentle Typhoon... This is the Rolls Royce of fans imho. Great performance and pretty pricey. They cost more because they don't make as many as their competitors and the high demand drives up the price or the price drives up the high demand in a bit of a Wag the Dog imho. Great Static Pressure Rating and due to the shape and amount of fan blades on the hub they're pretty quiet as well. $20 or more per fan.

I personally went with the Yate Loons and turned the stock fan into a shroud by cutting out the fan from the casing. 20mm shrouds are $8 or more. 25mm fan turned into a shroud is less if you have a donor fan on hand to use. I used the brand new never been run before fan. You should expect anywhere from 1-4c drop in temps with a shroud. I think my temps were 3c less.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnerg*
> 
> My ASUS AMD and H50 AMD brackets are metal.
> 
> I managed to find a pic I took when I did the install of the H50:
> 
> 
> 
> Left: ASUS AMD
> Right: Corsair H50 AMD
> 
> I had to order my AMD brackets and backplate as the kit was prior to Corsair including it.


Actually the H50 backplate hasn't been metal for quite awhile now. No biggee though. I believe that the metal inserts that are used are the same thread. But it's best to a pre-fit before attempting it with the backplate in place. If you have a spare AM2/AM3/AM3+ plate take one of the screws and try it. At the worst people are stuck with the Hydro Series backplate.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnerg

When doing push/pull do people use a single shroud behind the push fan or a shroud on either side of the radiator?

I've been playing with the H50 this weekend after switching to exhaust setup. First with shroud on either end and my SanyoDenki 6000rpm monsters sandwiching the whole lot. Then just a push fan and shroud. Tonight I put the pull fan back, leaving just one 25mm shroud on the intake side. Not much difference in it, although I do think this push/pull exhaust with single shroud looks to be the best temperature wise.

Silly question, but has anyone had more vibration/noise while running an exhaust configuration compared to intake?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnerg*
> 
> When doing push/pull do people use a single shroud behind the push fan or a shroud on either side of the radiator?
> 
> I've been playing with the H50 this weekend after switching to exhaust setup. First with shroud on either end and my SanyoDenki 6000rpm monsters sandwiching the whole lot. Then just a push fan and shroud. Tonight I put the pull fan back, leaving just one 25mm shroud on the intake side. Not much difference in it, although I do think this push/pull exhaust with single shroud looks to be the best temperature wise.
> 
> Silly question, but *has anyone had more vibration/noise while running an exhaust configuration compared to intake?*


It's probably due to the grill being in the way and the flow of the fans pushing through it. Some people have run in Exhaust in rear of the case where Exhaust normally is. Their fix was lopping out the grill. I use a Fan Controller to dial back the fans a tad bit to find the sweet spot. That place where the fans give great cooling while not wrecking my nerves with insane dB.









And yes you only need one shroud. Two really doesn't do much if anything at all.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnerg

I lopped out that grill the day I bought this case. It's not a round hole though. Square with angled corners for the mounting screws. I have to have the 2nd fan outside the case because it just doesn't have the space for 2 38mm fans, a radiator and a 25mm shroud.

I'ved dialed it back to 2% speed in SpeedFan, but I still feel vibration on the fans and an uneven sound to it. I'm not sure what frequency SpeedFan uses. I just try the 1.5M and 3.0M PWMOUT setting.

I can understand if the pull fan was suffering from turbulent air issues, but the push fan vibrates quite a bit too. I need to get some 5x50mm bolts tomorrow due to the bolt holes wearing out, but I'm thinking I'll try the whole setup outside the case and see if they still vibrate.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnerg*
> 
> I lopped out that grill the day I bought this case. It's not a round hole though. Square with angled corners for the mounting screws. I have to have the 2nd fan outside the case because it just doesn't have the space for 2 38mm fans, a radiator and a 25mm shroud.
> 
> I'ved dialed it back to 2% speed in SpeedFan, but I still feel vibration on the fans and an uneven sound to it. I'm not sure what frequency SpeedFan uses. I just try the 1.5M and 3.0M PWMOUT setting.
> 
> I can understand if the pull fan was suffering from turbulent air issues, but the push fan vibrates quite a bit too. I need to get some 5x50mm bolts tomorrow due to the bolt holes wearing out, but I'm thinking I'll try the whole setup outside the case and see if they still vibrate.


Try a couple of Silicon Fan gaskets and see if that fixes things. I think the reason why I didn't notice vibration too much was cause I had 4 of them in my P/P setup.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnerg*
> 
> When doing push/pull do people use a single shroud behind the push fan or a shroud on either side of the radiator?
> 
> I've been playing with the H50 this weekend after switching to exhaust setup. First with shroud on either end and my SanyoDenki 6000rpm monsters sandwiching the whole lot. Then just a push fan and shroud. Tonight I put the pull fan back, leaving just one 25mm shroud on the intake side. Not much difference in it, although I do think this push/pull exhaust with single shroud looks to be the best temperature wise.
> 
> Silly question, but has anyone had more vibration/noise while running an exhaust configuration compared to intake?


Yeah, shrouds generally don't make much of a difference. One or two C. People recommend them for fans that have a large hub, and place them in between the push fan and the rad to try and eliminate the dead spot in front of the fan hub. No one has ever reported large temp differences though, at least none that have been documented.

@Ceadderman

I have only come across one Intel water cooler so far:

http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX36981

It only has one fan. Looks pretty sweet though. The H60 fan is actually a good performer, but I would agree that the Arctic PWM fans are a fairly good option too. Again, if a PWM splitter is used, they can be controlled by the CPU_FAN header.

Agreed that neither my H50 or H70 had metal back plates. They had those odd plastic backplates with multiple mounting holes in them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnerg*
> 
> I lopped out that grill the day I bought this case. It's not a round hole though. Square with angled corners for the mounting screws. I have to have the 2nd fan outside the case because it just doesn't have the space for 2 38mm fans, a radiator and a 25mm shroud.
> 
> I'ved dialed it back to 2% speed in SpeedFan, but I still feel vibration on the fans and an uneven sound to it. I'm not sure what frequency SpeedFan uses. I just try the 1.5M and 3.0M PWMOUT setting.
> 
> I can understand if the pull fan was suffering from turbulent air issues, but the push fan vibrates quite a bit too. I need to get some 5x50mm bolts tomorrow due to the bolt holes wearing out, but I'm thinking I'll try the whole setup outside the case and see if they still vibrate.


Why use 38mm fans?

It has been shown that some fans make more noise when their RPMs are turned down than they do when running full speed. These 38mm fans may suffer from that effect. Get some good 25mm fans and then you'll get less noise and they will fit inside your case.

Note I tried both exhaust and intake on my case with an H100 and an H70 and neither caused more noise (they were about the same).


----------



## Ceadderman

Sweet. Good lookin out with the update Merg.









Agreed with the thicker fans. I think the only one that isn't noisy that I can think of is the Tribewerk model.









I'm going with 120x20 Yate Loon D12SM-12C Medium Speeds for my Loop. Non LED though. Got Phobya 7mm Shroud/Decouplers for them as well. We'll see how they perform. 62cfm isn't a lot of flow but on a 360 Radiator should work well and keep the racket to a minimum.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnerg

I'm using the 38s 'cos I have them. Had them for a couple of years. Just got tired of them sitting in the storage bin.







They hum a bit on low speed and there's the vibration or some sort of case resonance. Stupid aluminium case!

I'm not thinking of spending more on imported 25mm fans right now seeing as these guys are doing a really good job and have a ton of headroom. I'm stuck with Coolermaster, Zalman and things like that. Yate Loons will need to be imported. I have access to Sunon though. Cut a Yate Loon hi-speed out of my old (but working) spare Gigabyte PSU and it's doing duty @ 5V as top exhaust. It's a pretty smooth fan when turned down that low.

I do have gaskets in place. 3 on the intake side, but 1 on the exhaust fan against the case and I have some foam rubber tape in place where the radiator attaches. Not the best rubber, just picked it up at the hardware yesterday. It's for sealing doors, etc.

It might even just be the PWM they're getting as I'm not sure how SpeedFan does it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnerg*
> 
> I'm using the 38s 'cos I have them. Had them for a couple of years. Just got tired of them sitting in the storage bin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They hum a bit on low speed and there's the vibration or some sort of case resonance. Stupid aluminium case!
> 
> I'm not thinking of spending more on imported 25mm fans right now seeing as these guys are doing a really good job and have a ton of headroom. I'm stuck with Coolermaster, Zalman and things like that. Yate Loons will need to be imported. I have access to Sunon though. Cut a Yate Loon hi-speed out of my old (but working) spare Gigabyte PSU and it's doing duty @ 5V as top exhaust. It's a pretty smooth fan when turned down that low.
> 
> I do have gaskets in place. 3 on the intake side, but 1 on the exhaust fan against the case and I have some foam rubber tape in place where the radiator attaches. Not the best rubber, just picked it up at the hardware yesterday. It's for sealing doors, etc.
> 
> It might even just be the PWM they're getting as I'm not sure how SpeedFan does it.


Well then I would suggest the Cooler Master R4 if you can get them. It could be that those 38s' blast too much air and is causing cavitation which could lead to the vibration you're getting.









~Ceadder


----------



## lofax

ok quick question, does it really make a big difference running P/P on h100 vs push only?cuz im planning to grab 2 more GTs.
current temps in my set-up 30C idle,65C max temps prime test @ 1.4V. if i can benefit a 5C drops in temps that would be nice.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lofax*
> 
> ok quick question, does it really make a big difference running P/P on h100 vs push only?cuz im planning to grab 2 more GTs.
> current temps in my set-up 30C idle,65C max temps prime test @ 1.4V. if i can benefit a 5C drops in temps that would be nice.


Depends on your ambient temp bro. 30c Idle is pretty good. I'm thinking your 2500k is running 10c less than reported under load given the Intel -10c rule. So 30c/55c is reasonable. You could still try it and I recommend getting the extra fans, what with Summer on its way.

But for comparisons sake, I run my lapped 955 at 30c Idle and 45c 100% Load. It's on a Cooler Master Hyper 212+ at the moment not running pull. I have the ability to, I just haven't done it cause I'm going with a full loop very soon. I know for a fact that P/P works very well because I ran it with my H50. But youjust have to keep in mind that while it may do nothing for you in Idle due to ambient temp, Load is where you should and will notice the savings.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnerg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well then I would suggest the Cooler Master R4 if you can get them. It could be that those 38s' blast too much air and is causing cavitation which could lead to the vibration you're getting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Guess which Cooler Master I can't get here?
















The 38s are running on a slow speed and it doesn't feel like more air than, say, the stock Corsair fan. I think the air into the 2nd fan is pretty turbulent having gone through the radiator and passing all sorts of edges. These fans also have a huge vacuum spot right behind their big hubs on low speed. I'm going to remove the 2nd fan from the equation quickly and see if the intake makes the same noise on its own. Not sure if cavitation and/or turbulence would come into play on intake.

Best is I get the stock fan or other one back in, but you know what, I think I'm a sucker or punishment right now because this issue has my interest.


----------



## dartuil

no modded h100 tube here?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnerg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well then I would suggest the Cooler Master R4 if you can get them. It could be that those 38s' blast too much air and is causing cavitation which could lead to the vibration you're getting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess which Cooler Master I can't get here?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 38s are running on a slow speed and it doesn't feel like more air than, say, the stock Corsair fan. I think the air into the 2nd fan is pretty turbulent having gone through the radiator and passing all sorts of edges. These fans also have a huge vacuum spot right behind their big hubs on low speed. I'm going to remove the 2nd fan from the equation quickly and see if the intake makes the same noise on its own. Not sure if cavitation and/or turbulence would come into play on intake.
> 
> Best is I get the stock fan or other one back in, but you know what, I think I'm a sucker or punishment right now because this issue has my interest.
Click to expand...

Man that sucks. Not even R4s.









But yeah I think it's time to remove one of them from the equation and see if that gets it.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnerg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Man that sucks. Not even R4s.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah I think it's time to remove one of them from the equation and see if that gets it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


As a reseller I do find it frustrating that my suppliers often don't carry the basics from certain brands. I guess they're more interested in the "best sellers". There's no lack of good brands represented here, but just not complete product ranges for those brands.

Checked the fans again. The push fan is smooth on its own. The pull fan has the problem even on its own. It changes sound and behaviour if I hand spin the push fan. Probably turbulence through the radiator making air too choppy to start with and when the push fan comes on its like an amplifier.







I'm keen on trying an air straightener on this problem before going on to some different fans.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeyck*
> 
> Alright thank you guys! and yea i would love the h100 but the Antec-DF isn't made for that, I don't want to lose the 2 top 140's. And if i try to install them in the back 120's the h100 RAD hits the the closed 140mm fan thats right next to the 120mm fans.


Actually you're wrong. It does fit. I seen a thread in here and google someone made it work in the Dark Fleet. It requires very MINOR modding. You can mount it on the top! As for the rear. I doubt it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnerg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Man that sucks. Not even R4s.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah I think it's time to remove one of them from the equation and see if that gets it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As a reseller I do find it frustrating that my suppliers often don't carry the basics from certain brands. I guess they're more interested in the "best sellers". There's no lack of good brands represented here, but just not complete product ranges for those brands.
> 
> Checked the fans again. The push fan is smooth on its own. The pull fan has the problem even on its own. It changes sound and behaviour if I hand spin the push fan. Probably turbulence through the radiator making air too choppy to start with and when the push fan comes on its like an amplifier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm keen on trying an air straightener on this problem before going on to some different fans.
Click to expand...

Yeah I can see how that could be a bit of a disappointment. Yate Loon makes a High Speed version of their 120x20 but nobody carries it. I can't imagine that nobody wants a true high speed 120x20 that costs only $4 each for stock fans. So this has to be a limitation of what the suppliers are willing to send to the public. I dunno maybe it's YLs' way of limiting the materials for manufacture. Copper isn't cheap after all an I'm sure the windings are a tad bit more expensive. Still you'd think that it would be the same for the 120x25 and 140x25 models. Of course it could also be that businesses choose not to stock them because their 120x20s' don't sell as well. I need my fans to be low profile. Yeah I could go pretty big in my 932, but the window I paid to have made would be filled with a Radiator and fans. Hell, I'm so against that I dropped the idea of using a 45mm shroud because it would push my fans halfway into the window. No thanks.









I'm glad you got it sorted out though. I was wracking my brain trying to figure out what the issue was.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnerg

I've never seen a 120x20. Not even at the electronic component suppliers. Over time the distributors are bound to drop the low selling items.

This Stacker 830 actually came with standard R4 sleeve bearing fans, but they're long gone.

But guess what ...? I just updated by price and supply lists and in amongst the R4 sickleflows, megaflows, blademasters, etc, etc, is a lonely item listed as a 4-pack of 120mm R4 ball bearing fans!







Stock check tomorrow.

I still want to fix the current issue. I might order some of that honeycomb stuff they use to straighten airflow. Would be interesting to see.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sweet. Good lookin out with the update Merg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed with the thicker fans. I think the only one that isn't noisy that I can think of is the Tribewerk model.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going with 120x20 Yate Loon D12SM-12C Medium Speeds for my Loop. Non LED though. Got Phobya 7mm Shroud/Decouplers for them as well. We'll see how they perform. 62cfm isn't a lot of flow but on a 360 Radiator should work well and keep the racket to a minimum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Could you do a temp comparison with the shroud (if it's not too much trouble, which it may be with a full loop). I would love to see some screen shots of before and after temps. I used a shroud in my other computer, but alas I also did not do a temp comparison. Just curious....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lofax*
> 
> ok quick question, does it really make a big difference running P/P on h100 vs push only?cuz im planning to grab 2 more GTs.
> current temps in my set-up 30C idle,65C max temps prime test @ 1.4V. if i can benefit a 5C drops in temps that would be nice.


Corsair George says Corsair tested push/pull in the lab using an H100 and it made no difference at all. Of course, that's on a bench. In an actual case you may see a few degrees difference, but I don't think it will be major. I was using push/pull on my H100 when I was running a Core 2 Quad at 3.3GHz, but I never did a temp comparison between one set of fans and two (I kick myself for not doing that now).

Currently I'm using an H100 on an i5 2500K and it's working great with one set of fans in "push". Again, I have nothing to compare it to (I cannot fit push/pull and the H100 in my case with the i5 mobo because of how high the RAM is mounted on the board). My 2500K is running at 4.3GHz when loaded with Intel Burn Test, Furmark torturing my two HD69XX video cards and all my case fans cranked up. I'm getting about a 30c idle with a 22c ambient, and a load of about 68c with a 23c ambient. I adjusted the overclock on my system so a full load on the CPU and video cards would keep my temps under 70c which for me is at about 4.3GHz. I hear it's best to keep the i5 below 73c. I only get these temps while torturing the system, and it never approaches those temps while playing games.

If you have room to fit push/pull with an H100 then go for it. If not, don't worry because it will still do a great job cooling with just one set of fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> no modded h100 tube here?


Considering the H100 costs about $110, I think most people prefer to keep it unmodded. At that price, if you want different hoses you might as well just purchase a full loop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnerg*
> 
> As a reseller I do find it frustrating that my suppliers often don't carry the basics from certain brands. I guess they're more interested in the "best sellers". There's no lack of good brands represented here, but just not complete product ranges for those brands.


That's sort of a catch 22. They're only the best selling because that's what the suppliers stock. If they stock nothing but the cheapest stuff, then of course the cheapest stuff will sell.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sweet. Good lookin out with the update Merg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed with the thicker fans. I think the only one that isn't noisy that I can think of is the Tribewerk model.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going with 120x20 Yate Loon D12SM-12C Medium Speeds for my Loop. Non LED though. Got Phobya 7mm Shroud/Decouplers for them as well. We'll see how they perform. 62cfm isn't a lot of flow but on a 360 Radiator should work well and keep the racket to a minimum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could you do a temp comparison with the shroud (if it's not too much trouble, which it may be with a full loop). I would love to see some screen shots of before and after temps. I used a shroud in my other computer, but alas I also did not do a temp comparison. Just curious....
Click to expand...

Would love to, but my choice of connection kind of makes it difficult...





I'm not saying no, but I have to get 23-25mm M4 screws to accomplish this. My Koolance kits are 25mm before thread. So that leaves me 5mm of space to account for if I don't use the 7mm Shroud/Decoupler. I figger it's worth the $5 for a bag of screws and hexnuts to do the experiment but I won't know when I'll be able to do that. Also the Black Ice GT Stealth has a slight gap between the frame and the fins. I think it's roughly 5mm. I'll know more when it gets here but I can't promise that won't play with the results a bit.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> no modded h100 tube here?


Considering the H100 costs about $110, I think most people prefer to keep it unmodded. At that price, if you want different hoses you might as well just purchase a full loop.[/quote]

That's nothing really. There were a few people that modded their hunerd dollar H50s' back before I got mine at $90. You'd be surprised what people do with their Hydro Series coolers.









Hell, I had my 955 BE not even a week before I lapped it. Of course I ran it for a few days before I did so and used the stock cooler to make sure things were square but that was $170 and I imagine borking that would have a more negative effect than borking an H100 mod.









~Ceadder


----------



## vf-

What was the paste Corsair started using on the new Hydro coolers? was it still Shin-Etsu...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vf-*
> 
> What was the paste Corsair started using on the new Hydro coolers? was it still Shin-Etsu...


G751. The best stuff on the planet. It's funny how some people think 7783 is the best.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnerg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> That's sort of a catch 22. They're only the best selling because that's what the suppliers stock. If they stock nothing but the cheapest stuff, then of course the cheapest stuff will sell.


Indeedy. A little frustrating. The gaming and modding market dictates alot in terms of what is stocked. Sometimes I just need a spare part to fix someone's home PC and I can't quite rock up at the place with super-bright LED bits.

Still good to have found the standard R4 ball bearing units available albeit only in packs of 4.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well, one more step for Ceaddkind...


Spoiler: Lookie Lookie what we have here!











Just a little sometin sometin for you guys to look forward to. Heck if you wanted to you could get 1/4" barbs and mod in a 240.









~Ceadder


----------



## vf-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> G751. The best stuff on the planet. It's funny how some people think 7783 is the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ah, I have the Shin-Etsu X23-7762. Maybe I should get a tube of the G751.


----------



## mwl5apv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnerg*
> 
> Yes, the thread size was the same. I had to order my Corsair AMD brackets because the H50 I picked up was prior to them offering it in the kit. Perhaps it was different once included.
> I don't think I have pics comparing them. I was fighting and cursing some crazy thick Shin-Etsu at the time. I'll have a look, maybe I have a pic of the old bracket and can take one of the Corsair supplied item.
> I think all boards are going to be different and react differently to mounts and mounting pressure.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnerg*
> 
> My ASUS AMD and H50 AMD brackets are metal.
> 
> I managed to find a pic I took when I did the install of the H50:
> 
> 
> 
> Left: ASUS AMD
> Right: Corsair H50 AMD
> 
> I had to order my AMD brackets and backplate as the kit was prior to Corsair including it.


awesome, thanks for the pic and for the reply. Ill go ahead and try the backplate that come with my motherboard and see how that does. I think it might also be that the retention screws for the cooler are longer when I tighten them down push up against the motherboard try in my case. Thus flexing the board itself slightly. Think that would be a possibility? Would I be able to go ahead and grind like 1-2mm off the end of the screw?


----------



## unforgivensc2

I can't add myself to the spreadsheet at work, stupid base firewall, will do it when I get home. But here is my build. I'm ready to begin OCing now that I have my airflow figured out..


----------



## sinnerg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwl5apv*
> 
> awesome, thanks for the pic and for the reply. Ill go ahead and try the backplate that come with my motherboard and see how that does. I think it might also be that the retention screws for the cooler are longer when I tighten them down push up against the motherboard try in my case. Thus flexing the board itself slightly. Think that would be a possibility? Would I be able to go ahead and grind like 1-2mm off the end of the screw?


I doubt they're that long. Put the pump in place with the motherboard off of the tray, then you'll be able to see. I'm sure you could grind or cut the bolt back, but I reckon use the appropriate thread size die to get the threads back afterwards. I wouldn't do it if I was you. If I had to reduce the available thread count on the bolt I'd rather raise the bolt head using some small washers.


----------



## mwl5apv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnerg*
> 
> I doubt they're that long. Put the pump in place with the motherboard off of the tray, then you'll be able to see. I'm sure you could grind or cut the bolt back, but I reckon use the appropriate thread size die to get the threads back afterwards. I wouldn't do it if I was you. If I had to reduce the available thread count on the bolt I'd rather raise the bolt head using some small washers.


good point. i had a brain fart and didnt think of that







I have everything apart right now and about to play around with things. Ill report back with what I find

EDIT: would anyone happen to know the specs on static pressure the stock corsair fans put out? I kind of want to swap fans but want to get something that will perform on par or better then the supplied fans.


----------



## barkeater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Very nice/clean install!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But where are your SSD/storage/optical drives? Are you modding the HDD cage back in there later? Are you using an external USB 3.0 optical drive? I've always been curious as to how much slower an external USB optical drive would be, if much at all?


I'd be very interested to see if this can be done but using one of the lower fan locations in the front.


----------



## sinnerg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm glad you got it sorted out though. I was wracking my brain trying to figure out what the issue was.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Back again with the wobbly SanAce fans on my H50. It's not a turbulent air problem, it's a power problem. They don't like to be on the same 12V line and switched at the same time.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnerg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm glad you got it sorted out though. I was wracking my brain trying to figure out what the issue was.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back again with the wobbly SanAce fans on my H50. It's not a turbulent air problem, it's a power problem. They don't like to be on the same 12V line and switched at the same time.
Click to expand...

Haha yeah they are a bit high on the wattage.









Almost done with the loop. 1st one evar and was leak testing without a hitch til BAM! Reservoir sprung a couple of leaks under the cap.









To think I almost had it on my first try.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnerg

Why is the first try always such a problematic thing? Post pics of progress.

I think the PWM might just be switching them out of sync. Thinking of a cap across each fan, maybe giving a little more stored energy when needed. Just not sure what sort of size. Maybe shorten pwm wires to same thing just as a test as well. Fun and games.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnerg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why is the first try always such a problematic thing? Post pics of progress.
> 
> I think the PWM might just be switching them out of sync. Thinking of a cap across each fan, maybe giving a little more stored energy when needed. Just not sure what sort of size. Maybe shorten pwm wires to same thing just as a test as well. Fun and games.


It's official I have now made the jump from the H50 to...










Apologies for the crappy webshot pic but it's the best available to me at the moment til I get my system up and running properly.









I love the H50 and may get another one when it comes time to build a microfolder. Cause there is no way I'll get 1/2" tubing inside a dinky case. That's just not gonna happen. Only reason I sold mine was cause I needed a noodge to jump in the pool.









~Ceadder


----------



## mordocai rp

anyone interested in buying a modded h50 with compression fittings? shoot me a pm if you are


----------



## bowness437

H50 owner here.
Lowest idle temp recorded-23C
Regular full idle temp-28C
Regular use-36C
Big multitasking use(no heavy programs)-39C-41C
Heavy programs-45C
Gaming-43C

Overclcocked and stresstesed average-48-49C(tops out here, doesn't go past, 3.85GHz highest super stable overclock with stress)
AMD Phenom II X4 965 BE 125w C3 Revision


----------



## NitrousX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It's official I have now made the jump from the H50 to...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies for the crappy webshot pic but it's the best available to me at the moment til I get my system up and running properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love the H50 and may get another one when it comes time to build a microfolder. Cause there is no way I'll get 1/2" tubing inside a dinky case. That's just not gonna happen. Only reason I sold mine was cause I needed a noodge to jump in the pool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Looks great. What kind of waterblock is that?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitrousX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It's official I have now made the jump from the H50 to...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies for the crappy webshot pic but it's the best available to me at the moment til I get my system up and running properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love the H50 and may get another one when it comes time to build a microfolder. Cause there is no way I'll get 1/2" tubing inside a dinky case. That's just not gonna happen. Only reason I sold mine was cause I needed a noodge to jump in the pool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks great. What kind of waterblock is that?
Click to expand...

CPU Block is EK Supreme HF v1 "Classified" Edition. The red tops were introduced for the EVGA Classified Motherboard.










It comes with AMD and Intel plates, the one mounted is AMD.
















I don't believe that you can get these anymore. Now they're on to v2 which is a square top.









Oh yes, the hold down kit that comes with EK blocks is Shiny Nickel. Had to sweet talk Performance-PCs' to get them to swap out the shiny nickel with Black Nickel EZ mount kit. Told them I would pay the difference if necessary.









~Ceadder


----------



## EliteReplay

Can someone link me to the H80/H100 Club i dont find it or there is no CLUB for those?


----------



## sinnerg

This thread would be it, I guess. Should really be renamed to the Corsair H-series club.


----------



## combatant3219

Hi, this is my first post on the forums. I'm just looking for some opinions regarding fans. I picked up a cheap Alienware Aurora R3 with a 2600K and am looking at doing an overclock to 4.5-4.8Ghz.

The cooler that came with the system is a H50 and I want to make a push pull exhausting setup.
I have a couple of these Enermax TB Silence fans spare at home:
http://www.enermax.com/home.php?fn=eng/product_a1_1_1&lv0=4&lv1=32&no=143

Do you think these would be any good for my purposes?

Thanks


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combatant3219*
> 
> Hi, this is my first post on the forums. I'm just looking for some opinions regarding fans. I picked up a cheap Alienware Aurora R3 with a 2600K and am looking at doing an overclock to 4.5-4.8Ghz.
> 
> The cooler that came with the system is a H50 and I want to make a push pull exhausting setup.
> I have a couple of these Enermax TB Silence fans spare at home:
> http://www.enermax.com/home.php?fn=eng/product_a1_1_1&lv0=4&lv1=32&no=143
> 
> Do you think these would be any good for my purposes?
> 
> Thanks


They should be okay. But have you looked into Yate Loons? They have better static pressure and are cheaper. Good static pressure is important in a Radiator fan.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> Can someone link me to the H80/H100 Club i dont find it or there is no CLUB for those?


Other than the thread you're in right now, there's this thread:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1056539/corsair-h80-performance-thread

But many of us here have H80s or H100s (Not to mention H40/50/60/70).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combatant3219*
> 
> Hi, this is my first post on the forums. I'm just looking for some opinions regarding fans. I picked up a cheap Alienware Aurora R3 with a 2600K and am looking at doing an overclock to 4.5-4.8Ghz.
> 
> The cooler that came with the system is a H50 and I want to make a push pull exhausting setup.
> I have a couple of these Enermax TB Silence fans spare at home:
> http://www.enermax.com/home.php?fn=eng/product_a1_1_1&lv0=4&lv1=32&no=143
> 
> Do you think these would be any good for my purposes?
> 
> Thanks


Those fans should be OK. The Yate Loons and the Scythe AP-15 fans are great fans of you're looking for quiet performance. There are other fans that actually perform better at higher RPM but are a little louder. Here is a thread with a ton of tested fans, but remember they are testing for noise vs performance instead of pure performance, so their favorites are quiet fans that still have decent performance (like the Loons and AP-15s) and not just top performers regardless of noise..

http://www.overclock.net/t/859483/round-6-fan-testing-working-thread

Just remember, for a rad you're looking for Static Pressure, not air flow (although both is best). Check the specs for static pressure numbers. You can find a comparison on Corsair's site. Check the specs for the H80 and H100 fans. They're awesome fans, but not exactly quiet. If you're not concerned about noise, you could always order in the H80 fans from Corsair. Don't forget that if you regulate the fans RPMs using a fan controller or other means you can reduce the RPMs to reduce the noise while still having great performance. This allows some head room to increase the performance if you decide you need it.


----------



## aas88keyz

Hey folks. Just upgraded my motherboard, took of the old TIM to apply a fresh MX-2. Now I gained 5 degrees. I reapplied with the same results. I have been applying TIM for a while now and never had this problem. But that was before the H-series. Should I be doing something different with a watercooler or is the MX-2 any good for this setup? Would this make any difference MASSCOOL G751 Shin-Etsu? What would you all recommend?


----------



## Mergatroid

The difference between TIMs will likely only be a few degrees, five seems a little high to me. The only thing I can suggest, since you've already tried reseating, is to go ahead and try a different TIM like the Shin-Etsu and see if it improves. If it does, please let us know. I've been under the impression that MX-2 is pretty good TIM.


----------



## combatant3219

Thanks for the responses. The fans I have the static pressure is approx 1.7 and they run about 80cfm. I did look into Yate Loons but unfortunately I couldn't find any here in Australia.

I had been reading up on static pressure vs cfm for radiators. I normally buy stuff through www.scorptec.com.au because I can go pick up in store when I'm at work. They have the coolermaster R4's but id prefer something without LED. They also have the scythe slipstream 1900rpm fans. The scythe pushes more CFM about 110 CFM but I don't know what the static pressure is. Any recommendations for fans from this store or if the scythe fans would be any good?

Also, if I attach a PWM to a molex connection via an adapter, will the fans just run at full speed?

Thanks


----------



## EliteReplay

I have been reading this thread and I dont to much post about the h100 not even pictures of the setup etc


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^ That's because the thread title is somewhat misleading. It really should be "Official Corsair Hydro Series Club" but OP hasn't figured that out yet.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Hey folks. Just upgraded my motherboard, took of the old TIM to apply a fresh MX-2. Now I gained 5 degrees. I reapplied with the same results. I have been applying TIM for a while now and never had this problem. But that was before the H-series. Should I be doing something different with a watercooler or is the MX-2 any good for this setup? Would this make any difference MASSCOOL G751 Shin-Etsu? What would you all recommend?


Check the 80-way TIM link in my sig. Should clear up any questions you have. I use Shin Etsu G751 because it came stock on my H50. Even though I didn't use the stock TIM from the very beginning, I bought some, lapped the cooling plate of the H50 and then applied a fresh amount to the CPU and let the weight of the pump spread the TIM. Shin Etsu is VERY good in this regard. When I put my WC block on my CPU, I let the weight do the same thing but gave it a bit of an assist by rocking the CPU connector plate side to side top to bottom and corner to corner. I'm gonna be changing my CPU in the future so I'll make sure to grab a pic or two of the surface of both so you can see how that works. My CPU is running ~37c-39c with the increase in ambient temp and extra system Folding 24/7 CPU&GPU very good temps for my loop Folding 24/7 CPU.









~Ceadder


----------



## aas88keyz

Looks like a link worth reading. I browsed through another 80-way TIM site before I posted here but didn't find as much info as you sig link gives. I will keep an eye for your future application pics , do a full read of your 80-way TIM link and finally look about investing in that Shin Etsu G751 and after all that maybe at least get to the temps I was sporting before I removed the H80 stock TIM. Thanks.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combatant3219*
> 
> Thanks for the responses. The fans I have the static pressure is approx 1.7 and they run about 80cfm. I did look into Yate Loons but unfortunately I couldn't find any here in Australia.
> I had been reading up on static pressure vs cfm for radiators. I normally buy stuff through www.scorptec.com.au because I can go pick up in store when I'm at work. They have the coolermaster R4's but id prefer something without LED. They also have the scythe slipstream 1900rpm fans. The scythe pushes more CFM about 110 CFM but I don't know what the static pressure is. Any recommendations for fans from this store or if the scythe fans would be any good?
> Also, if I attach a PWM to a molex connection via an adapter, will the fans just run at full speed?
> Thanks


just a warning about the scythe fans, they are super loud. make sure you have a fan controller with them to turn them down a bit cause they will drive you crazy.


----------



## combatant3219

Thanks for the warning. I don't have a fan controller, are the Scythe fans really that loud?

I was looking into just ordering some of the fans from the H80 from Corsair but the postage is more expensive than the fans and I don't think there's anywhere I can get them directly in Australia.

Does anyone have any idea how I could source them or have some they may be willing to part with? I'd more than happily send some money for the fans/postage? Even if I could ship them to you and then forward them on to me with cheaper postage than Corsair quotes which is $39.00 for the cheapest option.

I just want to get some good cooling performance at a reasonable price but I'm having trouble sourcing the fans I want here in Australia. So if anyone has some good alternatives I'd love to hear them.

Are the Corsair Fans loud? I don't mind a bit of noise, just as long as they're not screaming. lol.

Thanks


----------



## .theMetal

yea they definitely move some serious air, no doubt about it. But I finally had to take mine out because it was just insanely loud. I was originally stuck on a cooler master geminII S which is a big air cooler that faces the mobo and it worked great but when I used it for a case fan, it just drove me crazy.

I have two yate loon high speeds on my h50 right now and even cranked full blast they aren't as loud as that scythe.

And I'm pretty sure were talking about the same fan I know mine is a 110 cfm.


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^^^ That's because the thread title is somewhat misleading. It really should be "Official Corsair Hydro Series Club" but OP hasn't figured that out yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check the 80-way TIM link in my sig. Should clear up any questions you have. I use Shin Etsu G751 because it came stock on my H50. Even though I didn't use the stock TIM from the very beginning, I bought some, lapped the cooling plate of the H50 and then applied a fresh amount to the CPU and let the weight of the pump spread the TIM. Shin Etsu is VERY good in this regard. When I put my WC block on my CPU, I let the weight do the same thing but gave it a bit of an assist by rocking the CPU connector plate side to side top to bottom and corner to corner. I'm gonna be changing my CPU in the future so I'll make sure to grab a pic or two of the surface of both so you can see how that works. My CPU is running ~37c-39c with the increase in ambient temp and extra system Folding 24/7 CPU&GPU very good temps for my loop Folding 24/7 CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I finished reading up on that awesome TIM link. I never got so much info on it. The MX-2 is only supposed to be about 1 deg cooler than the Shin Etsu G751 if prepared right but most importantly I learned about the importance of the compression of the H80 cooler to the Phenom II. I admit I was afraid to clamp down any tighter on the WC block afraid I would damage the CPU but what they said made sense and I found out I had a little more room to tighten down, I was rewarded with 3 degrees cooler while OC'd and folding for the OCN Fold-a-thon. That is huge for me. Though I had previously OC'd 200MHz more than now at the same temp. So I have to decide how worth it it is to reapply the TIM as recommended in your sig link and lower another degree or two. I applied 1 BB sized drop in the center and they say that is good for round heatsink contacts but for a square heatsink the recommend 2 lines parallel 2/3rd's a part which will distribute more squarely on the cpu which makes sense. The only thing I am not sure I am ready to do in the near future is lapping the cpu and the H80 WC block. I don't want to risk damaging either one and make matters worse. I will let you know if I reapply the TIM as suggested and give you the results.


----------



## combatant3219

Thanks. Still having trouble finding the H80 fans here in Australia, but I did find this: http://www.auspcmarket.com.au/info/AL-CWCH-FAN120/235/

They are the fans from the H60 which according to the specs have a static pressure of 3.2mm h2o and are 74.4 CFM so that's better static pressure than the fans I already have plus they're quite cheap. Not sure how noisy they would be though. What do you think of these?

Just again to clarify, will 3 pin fans run at full speed if connected through an adapter to a standard 4 pin Molex? Does the same also apply when connected to a fan header on the MB? I think it does but just want to double check.

Thanks


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^Pretty sure Corsair fans are Yate Loon fans. I know their PSU fans are and I know the H50 fan I had was. So if they stuck with Yate Loons, you could certainly do worse for fans. Yate Loons are the best bang of the buck fans on the market only being bested by higher priced "quality" fans like Gentle Typhoons. I highly recommend YL fans over all others cause @ $4US or less each you can buy 3 or 4 of them to how much 1 Gentle Typhoon costs depending on where you get them. Gentle Typhoons are damned good fans but price to performance ratio isn't as good.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^^^ That's because the thread title is somewhat misleading. It really should be "Official Corsair Hydro Series Club" but OP hasn't figured that out yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check the 80-way TIM link in my sig. Should clear up any questions you have. I use Shin Etsu G751 because it came stock on my H50. Even though I didn't use the stock TIM from the very beginning, I bought some, lapped the cooling plate of the H50 and then applied a fresh amount to the CPU and let the weight of the pump spread the TIM. Shin Etsu is VERY good in this regard. When I put my WC block on my CPU, I let the weight do the same thing but gave it a bit of an assist by rocking the CPU connector plate side to side top to bottom and corner to corner. I'm gonna be changing my CPU in the future so I'll make sure to grab a pic or two of the surface of both so you can see how that works. My CPU is running ~37c-39c with the increase in ambient temp and extra system Folding 24/7 CPU&GPU very good temps for my loop Folding 24/7 CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finished reading up on that awesome TIM link. I never got so much info on it. The MX-2 is only supposed to be about 1 deg cooler than the Shin Etsu G751 if prepared right but most importantly I learned about the importance of the compression of the H80 cooler to the Phenom II. I admit I was afraid to clamp down any tighter on the WC block afraid I would damage the CPU but what they said made sense and I found out I had a little more room to tighten down, I was rewarded with 3 degrees cooler while OC'd and folding for the OCN Fold-a-thon. That is huge for me. Though I had previously OC'd 200MHz more than now at the same temp. So I have to decide how worth it it is to reapply the TIM as recommended in your sig link and lower another degree or two. I applied 1 BB sized drop in the center and they say that is good for round heatsink contacts but for a square heatsink the recommend 2 lines parallel 2/3rd's a part which will distribute more squarely on the cpu which makes sense. The only thing I am not sure I am ready to do in the near future is lapping the cpu and the H80 WC block. I don't want to risk damaging either one and make matters worse. I will let you know if I reapply the TIM as suggested and give you the results.
Click to expand...

MX-2 doesn't outperform G751. Really though alot of this is subjective to how you apply your TIM. I never have to reseat because of how I apply mine and they all perform consistently close enough. Where Shin Etsu and several others outperform TIM like AS5 is that Cure time is next to zero. 8hrs or less of Burn In time compared to as much as 200hrs.









As far as how worth it, it may or may not be... well to be honest how worth it is it to you if you can get a more stable clock in that cooling gain? This is only something you can answer. That's why I went with a Custom Loop. I loved my H50 and was sad to sell it, but as good as it performed I couldn't keep a stable clock above 3.8Ghz. We'll see how I do once Fold @ Thon is over, but I'm reasonably sure I can get this CPU over 4Ghz and keep it stable. So really it's all on your situation more than anything else. I apply my TIM about the same diameter as that of a dried Wasabi pea right to the Center of my CPU and let the block do the work. If your TIM is room temp or a little warmer it should spread out more than enough to do the job. My CPU is lapped though, so there are very few peaks valleys and ridges to fill to get good contact.









~Ceadder


----------



## combatant3219

Thanks again for the help/tips. These forums sure are friendly and helpful!









I also found the following two fans from koolance which seem to have some really good specs, only problem again is their not readily available in Australia and the postage would be more than the fan itself!!

http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=0_83&product_id=683
http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=0_83&product_id=685

If I could get my hands on these, are Koolance fans any good. The specs seem great.

Thanks again

Edit: After an extensive search I couldn't track down the koolance fans so just ordered the Corsair fans. They were nice and cheap so now I can test those against the existing Enermax fans I have and go with what ever works best.

Thanks for all your assistance.


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^^^Pretty sure Corsair fans are Yate Loon fans. I know their PSU fans are and I know the H50 fan I had was. So if they stuck with Yate Loons, you could certainly do worse for fans. Yate Loons are the best bang of the buck fans on the market only being bested by higher priced "quality" fans like Gentle Typhoons. I highly recommend YL fans over all others cause @ $4US or less each you can buy 3 or 4 of them to how much 1 Gentle Typhoon costs depending on where you get them. Gentle Typhoons are damned good fans but price to performance ratio isn't as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MX-2 doesn't outperform G751. Really though alot of this is subjective to how you apply your TIM. I never have to reseat because of how I apply mine and they all perform consistently close enough. Where Shin Etsu and several others outperform TIM like AS5 is that Cure time is next to zero. 8hrs or less of Burn In time compared to as much as 200hrs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as how worth it, it may or may not be... well to be honest how worth it is it to you if you can get a more stable clock in that cooling gain? This is only something you can answer. That's why I went with a Custom Loop. I loved my H50 and was sad to sell it, but as good as it performed I couldn't keep a stable clock above 3.8Ghz. We'll see how I do once Fold @ Thon is over, but I'm reasonably sure I can get this CPU over 4Ghz and keep it stable. So really it's all on your situation more than anything else. I apply my TIM about the same diameter as that of a dried Wasabi pea right to the Center of my CPU and let the block do the work. If your TIM is room temp or a little warmer it should spread out more than enough to do the job. My CPU is lapped though, so there are very few peaks valleys and ridges to fill to get good contact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Sorry I actually meant in my previous post that G751 tends to be 1 degree cooler than MX-2 according to 80-way Tim. I just didn't type it out right though I was thinking it. So I have to make the decision whether to invest in it or not. With H80 and preapplied TIM my Phenom II was folding 24/7 at 4.2GHz averaging 48 degrees. All very stable. So now my Phenom II is 51 degrees folding for the fold-a-thon. That was after I tightened the WC block down. Before that I had to be at 3.9GHz and 55 degrees. I wanna get back to my old temps and OC so probably finisih the FaT today and do another reapplication and try the 2 straight line approach with the MX-2, get the WC block tightened down where it is now and see where it stands. Maybe invest in some G751 on my cpu upgrade (maybe a piledriver) in a few months.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^^^Pretty sure Corsair fans are Yate Loon fans. I know their PSU fans are and I know the H50 fan I had was. So if they stuck with Yate Loons, you could certainly do worse for fans. Yate Loons are the best bang of the buck fans on the market only being bested by higher priced "quality" fans like Gentle Typhoons. I highly recommend YL fans over all others cause @ $4US or less each you can buy 3 or 4 of them to how much 1 Gentle Typhoon costs depending on where you get them. Gentle Typhoons are damned good fans but price to performance ratio isn't as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MX-2 doesn't outperform G751. Really though alot of this is subjective to how you apply your TIM. I never have to reseat because of how I apply mine and they all perform consistently close enough. Where Shin Etsu and several others outperform TIM like AS5 is that Cure time is next to zero. 8hrs or less of Burn In time compared to as much as 200hrs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as how worth it, it may or may not be... well to be honest how worth it is it to you if you can get a more stable clock in that cooling gain? This is only something you can answer. That's why I went with a Custom Loop. I loved my H50 and was sad to sell it, but as good as it performed I couldn't keep a stable clock above 3.8Ghz. We'll see how I do once Fold @ Thon is over, but I'm reasonably sure I can get this CPU over 4Ghz and keep it stable. So really it's all on your situation more than anything else. I apply my TIM about the same diameter as that of a dried Wasabi pea right to the Center of my CPU and let the block do the work. If your TIM is room temp or a little warmer it should spread out more than enough to do the job. My CPU is lapped though, so there are very few peaks valleys and ridges to fill to get good contact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I actually meant in my previous post that G751 tends to be 1 degree cooler than MX-2 according to 80-way Tim. I just didn't type it out right though I was thinking it. So I have to make the decision whether to invest in it or not. With H80 and preapplied TIM my Phenom II was folding 24/7 at 4.2GHz averaging 48 degrees. All very stable. So now my Phenom II is 51 degrees folding for the fold-a-thon. That was after I tightened the WC block down. Before that I had to be at 3.9GHz and 55 degrees. I wanna get back to my old temps and OC so probably finisih the FaT today and do another reapplication and try the 2 straight line approach with the MX-2, get the WC block tightened down where it is now and see where it stands. Maybe invest in some G751 on my cpu upgrade (maybe a piledriver) in a few months.
Click to expand...

Ahhhh okay that makes more sense now. Yeah I would do that too. MX2 may require a line drop method. But I don't think it's how its applied that is the cause of your rise in temps tbh. Still it wouldn't hurt to give it a go.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combatant3219*
> 
> Thanks for the responses. The fans I have the static pressure is approx 1.7 and they run about 80cfm. I did look into Yate Loons but unfortunately I couldn't find any here in Australia.
> 
> I had been reading up on static pressure vs cfm for radiators. I normally buy stuff through www.scorptec.com.au because I can go pick up in store when I'm at work. They have the coolermaster R4's but id prefer something without LED. They also have the scythe slipstream 1900rpm fans. The scythe pushes more CFM about 110 CFM but I don't know what the static pressure is. Any recommendations for fans from this store or if the scythe fans would be any good?
> 
> Also, if I attach a PWM to a molex connection via an adapter, will the fans just run at full speed?
> 
> Thanks


I am using the Scythe 1900 RPM 110 CFM PWM fans on my H100 right now and they are working fine. I don't think they're as good as the stock H100 fans, but they are working OK. I had also used the same fans on an H70 and it worked fine as well.

What I really like about the PWM version is that you can use a PWM splitter and plug them into your CPU_FAN header (or plug one fan into each header if you have two CPU_FAN headers) and allow the motherboard to control the fans for you.

Note that if you do this, you may have to go into BIOS and set the error threshold a little lower. These fans run at about 600 RPM when the system is idling and that may be low enough to give you a CPU_FAN error. My ASUS motherboard allows me to lower this threshold to about 200 RPM so I don't get any errors. The fans will run the full range from about 600 RPM to 1900 RPM when you do a test using something like Prime 95 or Intel Burn Test. These fans are no louder than the stock H100 fans (in fact not as loud), and are easily drowned out by my video card fans when my entire system is under stress.

Also note that these fans pull over 1/2 Amp. (0.52A or something like that). Make sure your CPU_FAN header will support that (or 2 x that value if you are using a splitter on one CPU_FAN header). If it doesn't support that much current, you can purchase a PWM Splitter like this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119248

That can pull the power directly from your PSU while still controlling the fans from your CPU_FAN header. (Or you could make one if you have the spare parts kicking around).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> I have been reading this thread and I dont to much post about the h100 not even pictures of the setup etc


This is a huge thread. I know there are pictures here because I have posted some.

Here:



Above is my old system with the H100 using push/pull. That was on a core 2 quad system.



This picture and the one below show the H100 installed in the same case, using an i5 board with the H100 rad mounted up top.



If you have anything specific you need, please feel free to ask.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combatant3219*
> 
> Thanks. Still having trouble finding the H80 fans here in Australia, but I did find this: http://www.auspcmarket.com.au/info/AL-CWCH-FAN120/235/
> 
> They are the fans from the H60 which according to the specs have a static pressure of 3.2mm h2o and are 74.4 CFM so that's better static pressure than the fans I already have plus they're quite cheap. Not sure how noisy they would be though. What do you think of these?
> 
> Just again to clarify, will 3 pin fans run at full speed if connected through an adapter to a standard 4 pin Molex? Does the same also apply when connected to a fan header on the MB? I think it does but just want to double check.
> 
> Thanks


The stock H50/H60 fans are good fans. Again, they are PWM fans (I have an H50 in my other computer). Yes, they will run at full speed if you connect them direct to molex, but why would you want to? Just be careful of that link. The fan shown is obviously not an Corsair fan, as it would have a Corsair label on it of it was. It could be the same fan with the actual manufacturers label on it, but you can't know for sure.


----------



## combatant3219

Thanks, I checked the part number and the same fan is available from other retailers although slightly more expensive and it definitely is a Corsair fan. If for some reason it's not I'll be returning it, but from what I can see it should be fine.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

I'd like to know what you guys think of this fan for a push/pull on the H50

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103091


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> I'd like to know what you guys think of this fan for a push/pull on the H50
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103091


That's pretty good but look around the net for better deals. wermad I think got his for $6 each. But he does have $20 of them in his system. Still get with my bro and see if he knows where to get the best deal on them. Personally I'd rather go Yate Loons but R4s' are reasonably well performing.









~Ceadder


----------



## minnus

Does anyone have a comment in regards to long-term reliability for these coolers? While I know that best practice is to reaaply the TIM every other month / half year, what would you guys say if I wanted to install this cooler (any of the Hydro series, probably the H80 or H70) and never want to touch it again after that?

I am thinking of scenerios where I am building the PC for someone else (IE non-tech savy parents or simblings). With a normal heatsink/fan setup, I would never really need to service it ~ and any servicing would likely be for the fan going bad. Can I expect the same lifetime with these closed loop coolers? Or do they have a much shorter life time expectancy? I imagine that four years of life is a good duration to aim for.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minnus*
> 
> Does anyone have a comment in regards to long-term reliability for these coolers? While I know that best practice is to reaaply the TIM every other month / half year, what would you guys say if I wanted to install this cooler (any of the Hydro series, probably the H80 or H70) and never want to touch it again after that?
> I am thinking of scenerios where I am building the PC for someone else (IE non-tech savy parents or simblings). With a normal heatsink/fan setup, I would never really need to service it ~ and any servicing would likely be for the fan going bad. Can I expect the same lifetime with these closed loop coolers? Or do they have a much shorter life time expectancy? I imagine that four years of life is a good duration to aim for.


I have the H50 and it's been an amazing cooler. When I first installed it I used MX-2 and put a thin layer on it using a latex glove finger tip (after cleaning the fingertip with 97% alcohol) to get a very thin even coating all across the cpu. I wouldn't try it that way with AS5 since it's a bit thicker but MX-2 and 4 are pretty easy to spread. I had it running since I believe Jan 2010 till I just upgraded to BD this month and I never saw an increase in temps. The general rule of thumb that I've always read is that you should reapply the TIM once a year but it ran fine for me for 2 years. I used MX-4 this time with the bulldozer and I'm getting great results as well. I'm replacing the fan with two I bought off of newegg but not because the fan failed, it's still going strong. I'm just going to do a push/pull configuration and I want matched fans so that one fan isn't stressing the other fan because it's specs are different (I've had a hard time finding that exact fan that came with it). I've had it over two years without any leaks and without any problems at all. Now, as with any other product there is a percentage of failure rate so I'm sure there are some people out there who've use it and it failed anywhere from 1 month to a year or two later. But my guess is that rate is pretty low. Overall I couldn't be happier with it. The idle temps are about the same as normal air coolers but it's when you get to full burn that you REALLY see the difference.


----------



## Mergatroid

These coolers have something like a five year warranty, so I have no worries. As for reapplying the TIM every few months, I never have and it's never caused an issue. Personally, I've never heard that before.

If you look around, including in this forum, you'll find examples of units that have leaked, but it's very unusual and as far as I know, any leaks caused by manufacturing that have damaged boards, Corsair has paid to replace all the damaged equipment.

Personally, I don't find it to be much of a problem.


----------



## Ceadderman

Replacing the TIM every few months could lead to problems. The tubing while reasonable is still a stiff plastic. Playing with the block could lead to disaster. I seriously would not recommend doing so unless you absolutely have to.









i.e. CPU/Mainboard upgrades. If you've got a good TIM on and you're getting good temps, it's best not to tempt the gods of water cooling. They can be quite moody sometimes.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Replacing the TIM every few months could lead to problems. The tubing while reasonable is still a stiff plastic. Playing with the block could lead to disaster. I seriously would not recommend doing so unless you absolutely have to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i.e. CPU/Mainboard upgrades. If you've got a good TIM on and you're getting good temps, it's best not to tempt the gods of water cooling. They can be quite moody sometimes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I think with these, reapplying say once every two years isn't really unreasonable and shouldn't bend the tubes too much but I whole heartedly agree that changing it once a month or every other months is tempting the water cooling gods retribution.


----------



## minnus

Thanks for the replies. I will try the H80 route and hope for the best. It seems to me that it should be pretty reliable. I am not quite so worried about destroyed equipment as I am about the disruption of use.


----------



## aas88keyz

So I reapplied the TIM with some of my MX-2 the way that was recommended to me and the results are acceptable. Before all this, with the stock TIM that came with the H80, I was at 4.2GHz folding at 48C. I upgrade my motherboard and reapplied MX-2 with horrendous results. I had to down clock my OC to 3.9GHz and was barely folding at 57C. After reviewing all that was written in the 80-way TIM web page, I cautiously clamp down my WC block some more and stayed folding with 3.9GhZ @ 54 to 55C. After the fold-a-thon I broke down and shut my system off to reapply the MX-2 as recommended in parallel lines 1/3 apart, tightened down and finally came up with these results:

I don't honestly know what temps I got at 3.9 GHz after reapplication but I am folding stable at 4.1GHz at 50 to 51C. I can't get 4.2GHz stable anymore yet but my folding ppd has improved quite a bit. I still think I will wait to get the G751 until I am ready to upgrade my cpu in the near future. WIth how the H80 is performing I can accept 4.1Ghz for now and not risk dmg to any of the components right now. I am a believer in attn to the reapplication of the TIM and doing it the proper way. Made a huge difference to me. Thanks again for that link. Keep on cooling everyone.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> So I reapplied the TIM with some of my MX-2 the way that was recommended to me and the results are acceptable. Before all this, with the stock TIM that came with the H80, I was at 4.2GHz folding at 48C. I upgrade my motherboard and reapplied MX-2 with horrendous results. I had to down clock my OC to 3.9GHz and was barely folding at 57C. After reviewing all that was written in the 80-way TIM web page, I cautiously clamp down my WC block some more and stayed folding with 3.9GhZ @ 54 to 55C. After the fold-a-thon I broke down and shut my system off to reapply the MX-2 as recommended in parallel lines 1/3 apart, tightened down and finally came up with these results:
> 
> I don't honestly know what temps I got at 3.9 GHz after reapplication but I am folding stable at 4.1GHz at 50 to 51C. I can't get 4.2GHz stable anymore yet but my folding ppd has improved quite a bit. I still think I will wait to get the G751 until I am ready to upgrade my cpu in the near future. WIth how the H80 is performing I can accept 4.1Ghz for now and not risk dmg to any of the components right now. I am a believer in attn to the reapplication of the TIM and doing it the proper way. Made a huge difference to me. Thanks again for that link. Keep on cooling everyone.


Your current temps are completely acceptable based on your clock. Don't sweat over tightening the hold down ring though. The screws aren't so strong that they'll damage your CPU. Just tighten them all up so they're nice and snug and you should be fine.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> So I reapplied the TIM with some of my MX-2 the way that was recommended to me and the results are acceptable. Before all this, with the stock TIM that came with the H80, I was at 4.2GHz folding at 48C. I upgrade my motherboard and reapplied MX-2 with horrendous results. I had to down clock my OC to 3.9GHz and was barely folding at 57C. After reviewing all that was written in the 80-way TIM web page, I cautiously clamp down my WC block some more and stayed folding with 3.9GhZ @ 54 to 55C. After the fold-a-thon I broke down and shut my system off to reapply the MX-2 as recommended in parallel lines 1/3 apart, tightened down and finally came up with these results:
> 
> I don't honestly know what temps I got at 3.9 GHz after reapplication but I am folding stable at 4.1GHz at 50 to 51C. I can't get 4.2GHz stable anymore yet but my folding ppd has improved quite a bit. I still think I will wait to get the G751 until I am ready to upgrade my cpu in the near future. WIth how the H80 is performing I can accept 4.1Ghz for now and not risk dmg to any of the components right now. I am a believer in attn to the reapplication of the TIM and doing it the proper way. Made a huge difference to me. Thanks again for that link. Keep on cooling everyone.


The biggest mistakes people often mistake are,
1)Too much TIM applied. TIM will never be as good as direct metal to metal contact. It's whole purpose is to fill in the micro gaps and dips so that there is complete contact across the whole surface.
and
2)Not putting enough TIM on so that there's no TIM towards the edges of the chip.


----------



## 100cotton

Does anybody have spare 775 clip things for the h50? I bought the h100 and sold my h50 to my brother, but since I have 1155 and he's 775, I misplaced them. I looked around and found I could buy the mounting kit, but that's $10 when I just need the cheapest part of it. I'd be willing to pay for shipping if someone had some.

They kind of look like this if you don't know what I'm talking about. I think it's now considered part of an "old" mounting bracket for the h50.


----------



## Dwood

Can someone do some measuring for me. I am making some brackets in this thread http://www.overclock.net/t/1247567/h60-h80-h100-installed-on-gpu-bracket-inside and need to know if the H80 and H100 have the same bottom plate on the pump.



Thanks!


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *100cotton*
> 
> Does anybody have spare 775 clip things for the h50? I bought the h100 and sold my h50 to my brother, but since I have 1155 and he's 775, I misplaced them. I looked around and found I could buy the mounting kit, but that's $10 when I just need the cheapest part of it. I'd be willing to pay for shipping if someone had some.
> They kind of look like this if you don't know what I'm talking about. I think it's now considered part of an "old" mounting bracket for the h50.


I just saw those in a box the other day (I'm using the AMD bracket). Let me look around and see if I can find them.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Is that what you're looking for? I knew I saw it around last week.


----------



## 100cotton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> 
> Is that what you're looking for? I knew I saw it around last week.


I can't remember which set I need, but you have the right idea. I'll have to look at the instructions again to see exactly which clips I need.


----------



## KingMaddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *100cotton*
> 
> I can't remember which set I need, but you have the right idea. I'll have to look at the instructions again to see exactly which clips I need.


For 775 you need the two clips that only have one hole


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingMaddog*
> 
> For 775 you need the two clips that only have one hole


Hmmm....don't think I got those ones with mine. I got the ones I'm using with the AMD bracket and these ones. I'll dig around though.


----------



## KingMaddog

As you can see in this picture the 775 and AMD socket use the same clips. The one on the right has only one hole.


----------



## lightsout

Hey guys whats the best single rad version of these? Is the H70 rad thinner than it once was? I want one with a thick rad but looking on newegg they all look thin. Is the H80 the one to get now?

Also whats the odds of 5ghz with an H80?


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

5GHz on what?


----------



## lightsout

Oops sorry, sig rig. 2600k w/HT


----------



## PathOfTheRighteousMan

Hmm, can I be on the list twice?











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Oops sorry, sig rig. 2600k w/HT


If you can keep the volts below 1.47v then you'll be fine


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PathOfTheRighteousMan*
> 
> Hmm, can I be on the list twice?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Oops sorry, sig rig. 2600k w/HT
> 
> 
> 
> If you can keep the volts below 1.47v then you'll be fine
Click to expand...

Thanks man.


----------



## combatant3219

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combatant3219*
> 
> Thanks. Still having trouble finding the H80 fans here in Australia, but I did find this: http://www.auspcmarket.com.au/info/AL-CWCH-FAN120/235/
> They are the fans from the H60 which according to the specs have a static pressure of 3.2mm h2o and are 74.4 CFM so that's better static pressure than the fans I already have plus they're quite cheap. Not sure how noisy they would be though. What do you think of these?
> Just again to clarify, will 3 pin fans run at full speed if connected through an adapter to a standard 4 pin Molex? Does the same also apply when connected to a fan header on the MB? I think it does but just want to double check.
> Thanks


Ok, so I got my new fans and they are definitely the corsair branded fans so I'm quite happy with that. However I learn't that I shouldn't have made assumptions about the fan already hooked up to the H50 in the Alienware PC I have.

When I unhooked the rad to attach the new fans I thought that the fan pulling air through the rad and exhausting out the back of the case looked rather fat which I couldn't see before because it was concealed by the case. Turns out it was this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835706028 and pushes 148.34CFM & max static pressure of 15.29mmH2O.

Obviously these are better specs than either the corsair fans I picked up or Enermax fans I already had at home, so whilst the Delta fan can be a bit loud when it ramps up I'm thinking I'll probably just keep it due to it's specs.

For the moment I've just added one of the Corsair fans on the front of the Rad to push air through and have the Delta fan pulling in an exhaust set up. Do you think that this would be the best config to have these two fans? Or would another config be better?

At the moment the spare corsair fan is just sitting there unopened.

I'm still playing around with my Overclock but at the moment on my 2600k I can go to 4.6Ghz stable with temps maxing out in Intel Burn Test at 72*C, but when I ramp it up to 4.8Ghz I can get it stable but max temp in burn test goes to about 81*C.

What are your thoughts?

Thanks


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combatant3219*
> 
> Ok, so I got my new fans and they are definitely the corsair branded fans so I'm quite happy with that. However I learn't that I shouldn't have made assumptions about the fan already hooked up to the H50 in the Alienware PC I have.
> When I unhooked the rad to attach the new fans I thought that the fan pulling air through the rad and exhausting out the back of the case looked rather fat which I couldn't see before because it was concealed by the case. Turns out it was this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835706028 and pushes 148.34CFM & max static pressure of 15.29mmH2O.
> Obviously these are better specs than either the corsair fans I picked up or Enermax fans I already had at home, so whilst the Delta fan can be a bit loud when it ramps up I'm thinking I'll probably just keep it due to it's specs.
> For the moment I've just added one of the Corsair fans on the front of the Rad to push air through and have the Delta fan pulling in an exhaust set up. Do you think that this would be the best config to have these two fans? Or would another config be better?
> At the moment the spare corsair fan is just sitting there unopened.
> I'm still playing around with my Overclock but at the moment on my 2600k I can go to 4.6Ghz stable with temps maxing out in Intel Burn Test at 72*C, but when I ramp it up to 4.8Ghz I can get it stable but max temp in burn test goes to about 81*C.
> What are your thoughts?
> Thanks


One of the fans is going to burn out if it's mismatched, especially by that much (it'll probably be the delta that goes first). The slower fan is going to act like a drag on the bigger one.

*Edit-if you do use that setup make sure the more powerful fan (the Delta) is the pull fan. And definately don't ramp it up to full speed. TOO much of a mismatch there imho but someone correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## combatant3219

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> One of the fans is going to burn out if it's mismatched, especially by that much (it'll probably be the delta that goes first). The slower fan is going to act like a drag on the bigger one.
> *Edit-if you do use that setup make sure the more powerful fan (the Delta) is the pull fan. And definately don't ramp it up to full speed. TOO much of a mismatch there imho but someone correct me if I'm wrong.


Thanks for the response. Maybe I'll just try out/compare using the 2xCorsair Fans to the setup I've got now, Or maybe I'm better off just sticking with the one strong Delta fan. I guess only experimenting is going to give me the answer to what works better.

As far as using the stronger fan as the pull fan, on another forum I got the opposite advise saying to use the stonger fan as the push fan, otherwise the weaker push fan will starve the weaker pull fan. It's hard to know what's right, nevertheless I appreciate all the advice I'm getting. Certainly gives me some options/ideas to consider.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1657208&postcount=6

Read that.....that's why the stronger one should be pull. Long term though you'll burn out one of the fans.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113280


----------



## Ceadderman

First off that's UK fans. Recognize the power of Ultra Kaze for what it is. You could basically take one put ducting on it and use it as a leaf blower. Just as loud too.

2nd if you're running a standard 120 this MAY be true. But one thing not being taken into account is Static Pressure. Ultra Kaze doesn't have good SP. So there will be cavitation caused by the air causing "blowback" hitting the open spots between the blades.

If you use a reliable fan with good Static Pressure rating you won't have any worries at all. Hell if I owned $40 fans(average price for UK) I'd be a little worried about burning them out too. Simple fact is that test was rather limited. Also I didn't see (maybe notice) if there was a use of a shroud. Push that Pusher fan off the Radiator and then tell me how much of a difference THAT makes in the whole experiment. Even with UKs' being used.

Seriously though, if you have a good fan with solid SP this shouldn't even be an issue. I've had Push Pull on my H50 and it worked just fine. But in my case it WAS a matched set(similar CFM, SP and dB ratings) so that might not make much difference. I'd still recommend similar rating fans to be run in Push Pull, but if you have decent fans of differing CFM and both have good SP, I'd make the more powerful the Pusher because it will drive the Pull fan. The pull fan will not hinder the Push fan in any way simply because it cannot overdrive the Pusher and therefore cannot draw more air than the pusher is capable of. Any resulting jet wash from the Pusher fan is probably more a biproduct of using the incorrect fan to begin with. I would recommend a shroud however this would allow the push fan to cool more surface than it would if it were right atop the radiator.









~Ceadder


----------



## combatant3219

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> First off that's UK fans. Recognize the power of Ultra Kaze for what it is. You could basically take one put ducting on it and use it as a leaf blower. Just as loud too.
> 2nd if you're running a standard 120 this MAY be true. But one thing not being taken into account is Static Pressure. Ultra Kaze doesn't have good SP. So there will be cavitation caused by the air causing "blowback" hitting the open spots between the blades.
> If you use a reliable fan with good Static Pressure rating you won't have any worries at all. Hell if I owned $40 fans(average price for UK) I'd be a little worried about burning them out too. Simple fact is that test was rather limited. Also I didn't see (maybe notice) if there was a use of a shroud. Push that Pusher fan off the Radiator and then tell me how much of a difference THAT makes in the whole experiment. Even with UKs' being used.
> Seriously though, if you have a good fan with solid SP this shouldn't even be an issue. I've had Push Pull on my H50 and it worked just fine. But in my case it WAS a matched set(similar CFM, SP and dB ratings) so that might not make much difference. I'd still recommend similar rating fans to be run in Push Pull, but if you have decent fans of differing CFM and both have good SP, I'd make the more powerful the Pusher because it will drive the Pull fan. The pull fan will not hinder the Push fan in any way simply because it cannot overdrive the Pusher and therefore cannot draw more air than the pusher is capable of. Any resulting jet wash from the Pusher fan is probably more a biproduct of using the incorrect fan to begin with. I would recommend a shroud however this would allow the push fan to cool more surface than it would if it were right atop the radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks Ceadderman. To be honest, I first started my overclock without the pusher fan on at all, and the difference in temps with the pusher fan appears to be extremely minimal if not negligible.

When I get some time I'll pull off the Delta and try running the two matched Corsair Fans to see what sort of temps I'm getting with those. I'm not honestly expecting temps to be any better than they are with just using the Delta given the spec of that are so high, but I guess I'll only know if I try it out. I don't know if my logic is right but the stats of the 2 Corsair fans together would equal roughly the same CFM as the Delta Fan (2xCorsair = 2 x 74CFM = 148CFM, 1xDelta= 148.34CFM), but still Less Static Pressure (2xCorsair = 2 x 3.2 = 6.4mmH2O, 1xDelta = 15.29mmH2O)

Tell me if my logic is way off, I know it's gooing to come down to experimentation to find out for sure but at the same time I'm learning a lot from you guys on here so I'd appreciate your thoughts.

Thanks.


----------



## Ceadderman

With SP, less is more. Meaning the lower the SP rating the better the performance. It's the exact opposite of CFM performance rating. Which is why 1 Delta will NEVER beat a single Yate Loon for SP performance because D12SH-12C Yates have an SP of .8(+/-) The three best performers for Radiators are Yates, Cooler Master R4 and Gentle Typhoon AP fans. Ultra Kaze(/Delta) makes a reliable case fan and some people swear by them as Radiator fans but they probably don't give a rip about the dB level that comes along with those fans. Personally I like my sanity and being able to game w/o having to have the 2.1s cranked up high enough for the neighbors to call the cops cause my deaf ass needs to hear the ambient sounds in the game.







lol

Oh and also your math is off on the pairing for CFM. I can't specifically state that SP math is off. But I'm reasonably sure that 2 fans pushing the same column of air do not double in force. You might check with Martin's liquid labs or do a YouTube search for fan reviews regarding this.

So what is the benefit of running P/P? well to be honest the CFM does increase but I think that it takes the load off the Pusher fan allowing it to work cleaner reducing heat generated by the stators. Remember electricity is heat. That heat builds up and has to go somewhere. Running just one fan on a Radiator in Push that heat is going to wick away into the Radiator. But what if I run Pull? Well Pull will throw off heat away from the Radiator but is not as good as Push for cooling. So basically pull while increasing the flow rate of CFM is more productive as a cooler for the Push fan while incrementally increasing the actual cooling performance of the Radiator. It gets better when you add a shroud regardless of type. Although true shrouds will outperform modded shrouds using an empty fan body.









Hope I don't confuse or lose you. If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask. I'm no expert, just droppin some knowledge of the things I've learned since I started researching this stuff a couple years back.









~Ceadder


----------



## combatant3219

Ok, so what your saying is that it's actually fans that have a lower static pressure that are better for radiators? So lets assume that I have 2 sets of fans both of which push around 70CFM, (Which I do have at home). I have a set of Enermax fans with a static pressure of approx 1.65mmH2O and a set of Corsair fans with static pressure of 3.2mmH2O. By your description I'd be better off with the Enermax fans.

But that seems to contradict everything I've been reading elsewhere that states a higher static pressure is important to overcome the resistance of the radiator. There are numerous posts all over the web but this one is an example: http://www.overclock.net/t/1060706/cfm-or-static-pressure-for-specific-radiator-fans#post_14138651

The rest of what you're saying makes perfect sense but I'm not sure about what you're saying with reference to static pressure.

thanks:thumb:


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combatant3219*
> 
> Ok, so what your saying is that it's actually fans that have a lower static pressure that are better for radiators? So lets assume that I have 2 sets of fans both of which push around 70CFM, (Which I do have at home). I have a set of Enermax fans with a static pressure of approx 1.65mmH2O and a set of Corsair fans with static pressure of 3.2mmH2O. By your description I'd be better off with the Enermax fans.
> 
> But that seems to contradict everything I've been reading elsewhere that states a higher static pressure is important to overcome the resistance of the radiator. There are numerous posts all over the web but this one is an example: http://www.overclock.net/t/1060706/cfm-or-static-pressure-for-specific-radiator-fans#post_14138651
> 
> The rest of what you're saying makes perfect sense but I'm not sure about what you're saying with reference to static pressure.
> 
> thanks:thumb:


Let me confirm my information. I'm reasonably sure for Case fans you want a High SP for Radiator Fans you want a low SP. Of course this also depends on the FPI rating of your Radiator. Like mine is 30FPI for my GT Stealth 360. I need a high CFM fan for better cooling ability than I do a lower CFM rated fan. Anyway, lemme dig round an I'll try to cite some sources for you.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> One of the fans is going to burn out if it's mismatched, especially by that much (it'll probably be the delta that goes first). The slower fan is going to act like a drag on the bigger one.
> 
> *Edit-if you do use that setup make sure the more powerful fan (the Delta) is the pull fan. And definately don't ramp it up to full speed. TOO much of a mismatch there imho but someone correct me if I'm wrong.


The fan won't burn out. You can put mismatched fans on rads. Put the strongest fan as push, and the weaker fan as pull.

Fans don't get their full cfm when pushing through a rad because the rad will block some of the air flow, and there is a back pressure they have to overcome. So, if you put a weaker fan on as the pull fan, as long as they are not overly mismatched, it will still assist. The fan with the highest static pressure (the delta in this case) should be the push fan. The pull fan doesn't even have to have high static pressure, but a good airflow helps to remove the hot air the push fan is pushing through the rad.

No doubt it's best to match the fans if you can, but I've used mismatched fans myself on an H50 and had no issues at all. Even Corsair George has mentioned same, and he is where I got the information for using the high static pressure fan as the push fan.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113280


I'd have to do those tests myself before I would believe them. Sure, push fans suffer from a backdraft. That's why you need the fan with the best static pressure to be pushing, because it's the best at fighting the back pressure.

Put it this way. If you're just using a push fan on a rad, by itself, it's not going to decrease your performance to add a lower static pressure fan in pull. In fact, the low pressure they create (what there is of it) will be better than the neutral pressure that was there before the fan was added. The CFM of the fan, as long as it's in the same ballpark as the push fan, can only assist in pulling the hot air away from the rad.

I agree with Ceadderman 100% on this issue.

@Ceadderman

Uh, can you explain this please?

"With SP, less is more."

How can less pressure be more? Does less pressure in your kitchen sink faucet push more water or less?

A Corsair stock H100 fan has a static pressure of 7.7mm/H20. That is better than a Corsair H60 fan, which only has a static pressure of 3.2mm/H2O. (both at maximum RPM). Aren't the H60 fans Yate Loons? I think there are different models of Loons as well, and not all of them put out the same pressure.

Please link me to where it says: "Meaning the lower the SP rating the better the performance." because that goes against everything I have ever learned about physics. Higher pressure pushes more air because there is more force (pressure) pushing the air. The best fans can combine high static pressure with high cfm (and likely high noise). Just like more Voltage (electrical pressure) pushes more electrons, more static pressure pushes more air.

The advantage Yate Loons (or AP-15s) have is they have good static pressure at lower RPM, making them a quiet solution for a radiator fan. However, stock H100 fans may outperform the Loons (depending on the model) when both are turned up to full speed because the H100 fans have both a higher static pressure and a higher cfm at full rpm, but are louder. I can only guess as to the actual value of static pressure for the Yate Loons as that number is not actually published anywhere, and we can only go by community testing.

Here is an example:

http://www.overclock.net/t/819736/yate-loon-d12sh-12-round-up-review-56k-no

The best fan in that list is the Sidewinders fan, and it only has a static pressure of 2.99 mm/H20 which is not better than the 3.2mm from the H60 fan, or the 7.7mm of the H100 fans although the performance per noise level would most likely be better on the Loons.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> One of the fans is going to burn out if it's mismatched, especially by that much (it'll probably be the delta that goes first). The slower fan is going to act like a drag on the bigger one.
> 
> *Edit-if you do use that setup make sure the more powerful fan (the Delta) is the pull fan. And definately don't ramp it up to full speed. TOO much of a mismatch there imho but someone correct me if I'm wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> The fan won't burn out. You can put mismatched fans on rads. Put the strongest fan as push, and the weaker fan as pull.
> 
> Fans don't get their full cfm when pushing through a rad because the rad will block some of the air flow, and there is a back pressure they have to overcome. So, if you put a weaker fan on as the pull fan, as long as they are not overly mismatched, it will still assist. The fan with the highest static pressure (the delta in this case) should be the push fan. The pull fan doesn't even have to have high static pressure, but a good airflow helps to remove the hot air the push fan is pushing through the rad.
> 
> No doubt it's best to match the fans if you can, but I've used mismatched fans myself on an H50 and had no issues at all. Even Corsair George has mentioned same, and he is where I got the information for using the high static pressure fan as the push fan.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113280
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'd have to do those tests myself before I would believe them. Sure, push fans suffer from a backdraft. That's why you need the fan with the best static pressure to be pushing, because it's the best at fighting the back pressure.
> 
> Put it this way. If you're just using a push fan on a rad, by itself, it's not going to decrease your performance to add a lower static pressure fan in pull. In fact, the low pressure they create (what there is of it) will be better than the neutral pressure that was there before the fan was added. The CFM of the fan, as long as it's in the same ballpark as the push fan, can only assist in pulling the hot air away from the rad.
> 
> I agree with Ceadderman 100% on this issue.
> 
> @Ceadderman
> 
> Uh, can you explain this please?
> 
> "With SP, less is more."
> 
> How can less pressure be more? Does less pressure in your kitchen sink faucet push more water or less?
> 
> A Corsair stock H100 fan has a static pressure of 7.7mm/H20. That is better than a Corsair H60 fan, which only has a static pressure of 3.2mm/H2O. (both at maximum RPM). Aren't the H60 fans Yate Loons? I think there are different models of Loons as well, and not all of them put out the same pressure.
> 
> Please link me to where it says: "Meaning the lower the SP rating the better the performance." because that goes against everything I have ever learned about physics. Higher pressure pushes more air because there is more force (pressure) pushing the air. The best fans can combine high static pressure with high cfm (and likely high noise). Just like more Voltage (electrical pressure) pushes more electrons, more static pressure pushes more air.
> 
> The advantage Yate Loons (or AP-15s) have is they have good static pressure at lower RPM, making them a quiet solution for a radiator fan. However, stock H100 fans may outperform the Loons (depending on the model) when both are turned up to full speed because the H100 fans have both a higher static pressure and a higher cfm at full rpm, but are louder. I can only guess as to the actual value of static pressure for the Yate Loons as that number is not actually published anywhere, and we can only go by community testing.
> 
> Here is an example:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/819736/yate-loon-d12sh-12-round-up-review-56k-no
> 
> The best fan in that list is the Sidewinders fan, and it only has a static pressure of 2.99 mm/H20 which is not better than the 3.2mm from the H60 fan, or the 7.7mm of the H100 fans although the performance per noise level would most likely be better on the Loons.
Click to expand...

I think I'm saying it wrong which would complicate matters. I'm still looking round for the information though just with I could remember who did the fan review cause the way they esplained it makes sense.









Did I mention that I'm no expert?


















I'm sidetracked at the moment speaking with one client about selling some systems he no longer requires so he can fund other habits and speaking with another who needs to upgrade on a wicked tight budget. So between them and searching for the info I seek is a 3 headed monster.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> The fan won't burn out. You can put mismatched fans on rads. Put the strongest fan as push, and the weaker fan as pull.
> Fans don't get their full cfm when pushing through a rad because the rad will block some of the air flow, and there is a back pressure they have to overcome. So, if you put a weaker fan on as the pull fan, as long as they are not overly mismatched, it will still assist. The fan with the highest static pressure (the delta in this case) should be the push fan. The pull fan doesn't even have to have high static pressure, but a good airflow helps to remove the hot air the push fan is pushing through the rad.
> No doubt it's best to match the fans if you can, but I've used mismatched fans myself on an H50 and had no issues at all. Even Corsair George has mentioned same, and he is where I got the information for using the high static pressure fan as the push fan.
> I'd have to do those tests myself before I would believe them. Sure, push fans suffer from a backdraft. That's why you need the fan with the best static pressure to be pushing, because it's the best at fighting the back pressure.
> Put it this way. If you're just using a push fan on a rad, by itself, it's not going to decrease your performance to add a lower static pressure fan in pull. In fact, the low pressure they create (what there is of it) will be better than the neutral pressure that was there before the fan was added. The CFM of the fan, as long as it's in the same ballpark as the push fan, can only assist in pulling the hot air away from the rad.
> I agree with Ceadderman 100% on this issue.
> @Ceadderman
> Uh, can you explain this please?
> "With SP, less is more."
> How can less pressure be more? Does less pressure in your kitchen sink faucet push more water or less?
> A Corsair stock H100 fan has a static pressure of 7.7mm/H20. That is better than a Corsair H60 fan, which only has a static pressure of 3.2mm/H2O. (both at maximum RPM). Aren't the H60 fans Yate Loons? I think there are different models of Loons as well, and not all of them put out the same pressure.
> Please link me to where it says: "Meaning the lower the SP rating the better the performance." because that goes against everything I have ever learned about physics. Higher pressure pushes more air because there is more force (pressure) pushing the air. The best fans can combine high static pressure with high cfm (and likely high noise). Just like more Voltage (electrical pressure) pushes more electrons, more static pressure pushes more air.
> The advantage Yate Loons (or AP-15s) have is they have good static pressure at lower RPM, making them a quiet solution for a radiator fan. However, stock H100 fans may outperform the Loons (depending on the model) when both are turned up to full speed because the H100 fans have both a higher static pressure and a higher cfm at full rpm, but are louder. I can only guess as to the actual value of static pressure for the Yate Loons as that number is not actually published anywhere, and we can only go by community testing.
> Here is an example:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/819736/yate-loon-d12sh-12-round-up-review-56k-no
> The best fan in that list is the Sidewinders fan, and it only has a static pressure of 2.99 mm/H20 which is not better than the 3.2mm from the H60 fan, or the 7.7mm of the H100 fans although the performance per noise level would most likely be better on the Loons.


Look at it this way. When you have grossly mismatched fans what's going to happen? Together they are going to reach an equilibrium with the slower fan spinning faster then it's rating and the faster fan spinning slower. To settle this question once and for all I've sent off a message to a professor of electrical engineering for a definitive answer.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> The fan won't burn out. You can put mismatched fans on rads. Put the strongest fan as push, and the weaker fan as pull.
> Fans don't get their full cfm when pushing through a rad because the rad will block some of the air flow, and there is a back pressure they have to overcome. So, if you put a weaker fan on as the pull fan, as long as they are not overly mismatched, it will still assist. The fan with the highest static pressure (the delta in this case) should be the push fan. The pull fan doesn't even have to have high static pressure, but a good airflow helps to remove the hot air the push fan is pushing through the rad.
> No doubt it's best to match the fans if you can, but I've used mismatched fans myself on an H50 and had no issues at all. Even Corsair George has mentioned same, and he is where I got the information for using the high static pressure fan as the push fan.
> I'd have to do those tests myself before I would believe them. Sure, push fans suffer from a backdraft. That's why you need the fan with the best static pressure to be pushing, because it's the best at fighting the back pressure.
> Put it this way. If you're just using a push fan on a rad, by itself, it's not going to decrease your performance to add a lower static pressure fan in pull. In fact, the low pressure they create (what there is of it) will be better than the neutral pressure that was there before the fan was added. The CFM of the fan, as long as it's in the same ballpark as the push fan, can only assist in pulling the hot air away from the rad.
> I agree with Ceadderman 100% on this issue.
> @Ceadderman
> Uh, can you explain this please?
> "With SP, less is more."
> How can less pressure be more? Does less pressure in your kitchen sink faucet push more water or less?
> A Corsair stock H100 fan has a static pressure of 7.7mm/H20. That is better than a Corsair H60 fan, which only has a static pressure of 3.2mm/H2O. (both at maximum RPM). Aren't the H60 fans Yate Loons? I think there are different models of Loons as well, and not all of them put out the same pressure.
> Please link me to where it says: "Meaning the lower the SP rating the better the performance." because that goes against everything I have ever learned about physics. Higher pressure pushes more air because there is more force (pressure) pushing the air. The best fans can combine high static pressure with high cfm (and likely high noise). Just like more Voltage (electrical pressure) pushes more electrons, more static pressure pushes more air.
> The advantage Yate Loons (or AP-15s) have is they have good static pressure at lower RPM, making them a quiet solution for a radiator fan. However, stock H100 fans may outperform the Loons (depending on the model) when both are turned up to full speed because the H100 fans have both a higher static pressure and a higher cfm at full rpm, but are louder. I can only guess as to the actual value of static pressure for the Yate Loons as that number is not actually published anywhere, and we can only go by community testing.
> Here is an example:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/819736/yate-loon-d12sh-12-round-up-review-56k-no
> The best fan in that list is the Sidewinders fan, and it only has a static pressure of 2.99 mm/H20 which is not better than the 3.2mm from the H60 fan, or the 7.7mm of the H100 fans although the performance per noise level would most likely be better on the Loons.
> 
> 
> 
> Look at it this way. When you have grossly mismatched fans what's going to happen? *Together they are going to reach an equilibrium with the slower fan spinning faster then it's rating and the faster fan spinning slower.* To settle this question once and for all I've sent off a message to a professor of electrical engineering for a definitive answer.
Click to expand...

And? It may spin faster than it's rating but power usage will remain the same. It certainly wouldn't hurt the fan because it's not limited by a governor the way a Transmission in a car is. I can take an unpowered fan and stack it on a Pusher and it wouldn't do anything but push the other fans blades round. Granted that shouldn't burn out an unpowered fan but it's actually less of a burden on the Pull fan. Not that it would matter much anyway because in Push or Pull the higher speed fan will always drive the speed of the slower one.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Well....we'll find out one way or the other when I get an answer back.


----------



## Krusher33

Personally, when I think of mismatched fans: the slower fan acts as another fan grill slowing down air flow. The noise created is very much the same way then.

I can't discredit the shortening of a fan's life when a fan is being pushed or slowed down but I think it's just a theory. For me the air is just resistance. There's always going to be more or less of it. For example a fan pulling air through fan grill and then some dense filter.

Static pressure: Whatever impedes the airflow causes higher pressure and so the higher the pressure there is, the lower the airflow you end up getting. When talking about what the fan's static pressure is... I think we're actually talking about how much it's rated for. So... if you're going to put a fan on the side panel with no grills in the way, you only need a fan rated at a lower static pressure since there's minimal resistance. If you're putting it on a radiator though with so much fins that the air has to flow through and getting slowed down by it, you should use one that rated higher. That's what I understood anyways...

For me, I tend to see it as an air conditioning unit. You need more static pressure if you're going down a longer duct. So if you're using a shroud on just a push, more static pressure helps. If you're putting the fan on front of the case and it has to travel all the way through the drive cages and then to the components, more static pressure helps.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> Look at it this way. When you have grossly mismatched fans what's going to happen? Together they are going to reach an equilibrium with the slower fan spinning faster then it's rating and the faster fan spinning slower. To settle this question once and for all I've sent off a message to a professor of electrical engineering for a definitive answer.


I'm sorry, but I don't think they will. Perhaps if there was no rad. Consider a computer case with case fans. Intake fans may move more or less air than the exhaust fans, but this does not damage the fans in any way.

As I mentioned, the push fan will not achieve it's full CFM because it is blocked by the rad and fighting back pressure (so it's already running a little slower than it should be in free space). If the pull fan is a slower fan, it's not going to be forced to run faster because the push fan is blocked by the rad. I mentioned that, as long as the fans are in the same ballpark, there should be no problem.

Would I recommend matching a 600 RPM fan with a 3000 RPM fan? No, but that's not what we're talking about. Fans like that are not in the same ballpark. However, fans that are within 1000 RPM of each other should have no issues.

I have a computer sitting right beside me now with mismatched fans on an H50 and it's working fine. I know, having read this entire thread, other people are also using mismatched fans with no issues.

As I mentioned, doing this is not going to burn out the fans. I may not be an engineer, but I have taken multiple electronics courses including a two year Engineering Technology course, and I have been working in electronics and computers for 20 years. This is pretty basic physics. That along with the evidence of others also using mismatched fans tells me that the fans will not burn out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> And? It may spin faster than it's rating but power usage will remain the same. It certainly wouldn't hurt the fan because it's not limited by a governor the way a Transmission in a car is. I can take an unpowered fan and stack it on a Pusher and it wouldn't do anything but push the other fans blades round. Granted that shouldn't burn out an unpowered fan but it's actually less of a burden on the Pull fan. Not that it would matter much anyway because in Push or Pull the higher speed fan will always drive the speed of the slower one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Excellent point. The push fan is already running slower because of the blockage of the rad and the back pressure. That doesn't burn out the push fan.

As for the pull fan, again you're right, The fan could be turned off and another fan used to force its blades to turn. This won't burn out that fan either.

Of course, this could be settled if anyone could provide a single link in the entire history of the Internet showing having two mismatched fans on a cpu cooling rad burned one out. I've never seen such evidence myself.

Anything impeding the flow of the push fan will reduce its speed, including the rad. The airflow will also be less because of the same impediment. Therefor the pull fan does not have to match the push fan.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I'm sorry, but I don't think they will. Perhaps if there was no rad. Consider a computer case with case fans. Intake fans may move more or less air than the exhaust fans, but this does not damage the fans in any way.
> As I mentioned, the push fan will not achieve it's full CFM because it is blocked by the rad and fighting back pressure (so it's already running a little slower than it should be in free space). If the pull fan is a slower fan, it's not going to be forced to run faster because the push fan is blocked by the rad. I mentioned that, as long as the fans are in the same ballpark, there should be no problem.
> Would I recommend matching a 600 RPM fan with a 3000 RPM fan? No, but that's not what we're talking about. Fans like that are not in the same ballpark. However, fans that are within 1000 RPM of each other should have no issues.
> I have a computer sitting right beside me now with mismatched fans on an H50 and it's working fine. I know, having read this entire thread, other people are also using mismatched fans with no issues.
> As I mentioned, doing this is not going to burn out the fans. I may not be an engineer, but I have taken multiple electronics courses including a two year Engineering Technology course, and I have been working in electronics and computers for 20 years. This is pretty basic physics. That along with the evidence of others also using mismatched fans tells me that the fans will not burn out.
> Excellent point. The push fan is already running slower because of the blockage of the rad and the back pressure. That doesn't burn out the push fan.
> As for the pull fan, again you're right, The fan could be turned off and another fan used to force its blades to turn. This won't burn out that fan either.
> Of course, this could be settled if anyone could provide a single link in the entire history of the Internet showing having two mismatched fans on a cpu cooling rad burned one out. I've never seen such evidence myself.
> Anything impeding the flow of the push fan will reduce its speed, including the rad. The airflow will also be less because of the same impediment. Therefor the pull fan does not have to match the push fan.


Hey, I'm just giving an opinion based on medium engineering and electrical/engineering knowledge and I could be way offf base here. That's why I've fired off some messages to experts to see if we can get a definitive answer once and for all. I would love to get a good solid answer to this as well. Just so you know, the fans he's listing are roughly 1900 - 2000 RPM in difference with the delta having almost 3 times the CFM as the other.


----------



## Mergatroid

In his case, I don't think I would recommend using both fans at full speed. A good fan controller should allow him to more closely match them up. Of course, they're not going to move the same amount of air at the same RPMs since they're different fans. In either case though, I don't think it will burn out any fans.


----------



## combatant3219

Just to clarify as I posted the original question, Once I have chosen which overclock I'm going to stick with (I have worked out settings to get stable at 4.5, 4.6, 4.7 & 4.8Ghz), I plan on trying out the different fan configs (as I have a selection of 3 different fan types of which 2 I have matched fans, but the Delta I only have the one which was originally installed in the system by itself). I will then see what give me the best temps.

But since this is my first experience with using the H50 or any watercooling for that matter I wanted to ask some of the experts and experienced users on here what the consequences/effects/drawbacks of using the Delta fan with one of the others might be.

I also plan on trying the fans in both an intake and an exhaust config to see what works out best. I'l be away on holiday for around a week so I may not get to test it out for a little while, but I will report back on my results.

By the way, although I am not using a fan controller the Delta never actually ramps up to full speed even under load. Whilst my temps aren't great they are reasonable and within safe limits for my CPU. We'll see what the different fan configs do for me!


----------



## Ceadderman

If you already have the Delta. The only cons I see are...

Noise

The tree that gets sucked through your Radiator from the sheer Win! performance of the Delta.

If you don't care about noise then you're last concern is to lock your system up in a winowless room that has plenty of ventilation.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

I think that the delta fan is more than adequate by itself on that rad. You are plugging the delta into the CPU_FAN header? Do you have a splitter or something you plan on using? If the fans are more than 1000 RPM apart in maximum RPM, and since the delta is such a nice fan, personally if I was you I'd just stick with the delta. Fans should at least be in the same ballpark if you're going to use them in push/pull. Maybe you should look for a more similar fan if you want to use push/pull?

On the other hand, if you would like a quieter system, you could always pull the Delta and put two of the other fans in (order a second one). This would actually be a nice test of 1 Delta vs two Corsair fans in push/pull. Since the two Corsair fans would match you could use a splitter and plug them both into your CPU_FAN header.

Of course, you mentioned the system hardly ever really revs up the Delta so perhaps it's fine the way it is.

In short, although your temps may be affected by adding such a largely mismatched fan with the Delta, it wouldn't damage anything. At high load/maximum speed, such a mismatch could affect the flow of air through the rad because the Corsair fan may not be able to remove the hot air as fast as the Delta can push it through the rad. In effect acting as a bit of extra blockage. At low load/RPM it may have very little effect.

Just try some of this stuff, do screen shots of your temperatures and post them here so we can see.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> Hey, I'm just giving an opinion based on medium engineering and electrical/engineering knowledge and I could be way offf base here. That's why I've fired off some messages to experts to see if we can get a definitive answer once and for all. I would love to get a good solid answer to this as well. Just so you know, the fans he's listing are roughly 1900 - 2000 RPM in difference with the delta having almost 3 times the CFM as the other.


So Bubba, get any answere's yet? More people than you know would like to here what the Prof's opinion would be?
Is he on the "government payroll" or partying with the GSA boys in Vegas or something


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

No replies yet. I've emailed various fan manufacturers as well. I was discussing it with me dad (6 year ET in the navy and 41 years as an electrician with his industrial plant supervisors license) and he pretty much agreed with me on the following point. With the two fans coupled together with the radiator the faster fan will slow down and the slower fan speed up to a middle equilibriuam (longer explanation in the thread I started in the cooler master forum section). As he stated with the increased load on the faster fan voltage stays the same (standard for DC motors) but the impediance drops (has to do with the electromotive force) and current rises. The slower fan will speed up causing the emf (electromotive force) to rise and current to drop which won't in itself cause a failure to the fan itself. The remaining questions would be on the slower fan will this increase in speed still fall within the design specifications of the bearings but even if it does it still will cause increased wear on the bearings. Wether that will cause the bearings to wear out in the time it will be used depends on the quality of the bearings and how they were designed etc. The other question would be does the increased current fall within the specifications of the design of the motor or will it cause a failure of the motor (through increased current and heat causing things like the insulation on the windings to melt and then short the windings causing increased current etc etc).

*edit - Even so, as I'm well aware from the comments made that logic and reasoning won't be accepted as a final answer I'm still actively looking for a final answer from an expert and when I get it I will post it here.


----------



## Ceadderman

Drag only comes into play if the vanes on either fan is different to that of the other. If the pitch is off it can negatively affect the performance of the fan.

No offense but it feels as though you're intentionally making mountains of ant piles. It's ALWAYS recommended to run matched fans in both speed and type. If you can't then it's recommended to run the slower fan in Pull because teh faster fan has to push through the Radiator. The loss of airflow going through the Radiator won't make a monumental impact on the Puller Fan nor will the Puller fan introduce enough drag to have a negative impact on the Push Fan because there is already a blockage between the two disrupting airflow. You're not running both in a completely open environment an I think that may be where you're making a wrong turn in your thought process.

I commend your curiosity on this though.









~Ceadder


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Drag only comes into play if the vanes on either fan is different to that of the other. If the pitch is off it can negatively affect the performance of the fan.
> No offense but it feels as though you're intentionally making mountains of ant piles. It's ALWAYS recommended to run matched fans in both speed and type. If you can't then it's recommended to run the slower fan in Pull because teh faster fan has to push through the Radiator. The loss of airflow going through the Radiator won't make a monumental impact on the Puller Fan nor will the Puller fan introduce enough drag to have a negative impact on the Push Fan because there is already a blockage between the two disrupting airflow. You're not running both in a completely open environment an I think that may be where you're making a wrong turn in your thought process.
> I commend your curiosity on this though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


^ I 2nd this.

Besides... the theory don't work. You're assuming the fans are built exactly the same way. There are too many other factors within the fans to consider.

Just match the dang fans.


----------



## Mergatroid

What you say may be true in extreme cases, but there's no way the fans we use in the PC cases are going to melt any motor wire insulation. I could see your point if one was being forced to run more than 100% faster, but in the cases we're talking about you might get a 25% variance. EMF is just another voltage. A motor can act like a generator if it's armature is turned physically. I would have expected this voltage to be the opposite polarity and act as a back EMF similar to the back air pressure being caused by the push fan, however I would have to measure it to be sure.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Actually you're wrong. Just because the radiator impedes airflow doesn't negate the fact that the other fan is going to slow the faster fan down. You forget one simple principle. With a fan that can move 170 cubic feet of air per minute @ 4000 revolutions per minute, it doesn't matter whether the fan's motor is on or you set the fan in a huricane that moves 170 cfm of air through the fan, it will still be turning at 4000 revolutions per minute. Which means for 1 revolution of the fan blades it's moving 0.425 feet of air per minute (170/4000=0.425). Conversly a fan rated to move 70 CFM @ 2000 RPM means that it moves .035 cubic feet of air per minute for every 1 revolution. If the radiator is slowing the fan enough for the first fan to have zero impact on the speed of the first fan that means the airflow through the radiator has been lowered to 70 CFM (I dare you to show me the physics that says it's even possible). In for the first fan to ONLY move 70 cubic feet of air per minute through the radiator and across it's blades that would mean the it MUST only be spinning at 1647.05 revolutions per minute (70/.0425=1647.05) which means it's running a full 2353.95 revolutions per minute SLOWER than designed to operate at a contant voltage.

Quote -

"The current a motor draws is ultimately determined by the torque the motor produces. The generated torque is dependent upon the current I, and factors determined by the materials and internal geometry of the motor. Since the construction of a finished motor will not (!) change during operation, a constant of proportionality between the motor current and the materials / geometry dependent factors can be calculated for a given motor. This constant, the torque constant Kt, describes the torque generated by the motor for a specific motor current:

Kt = T / I

Or to put it another way,

Current through motor = torque produced / torque constant
I (Amps) = Torque (oz-in) / Kt (oz-in/A) in imperial units

I (Amps) = Torque (N-m) / Kt (N-m/A) in SI units

Because of the interrelationship of torque, speed, current, and voltage, the constant current operation of a DC motor produces constant output torque regardless of speed. Given a constant load (i.e. torque) the speed of a motor is solely dependent on the voltage applied to the motor. *For DC motors operated at a constant voltage, the speed and torque produced are inversely related (the higher the torque, the lower the speed of the motor)*."

Remember that in these fans the voltage is constant. Therefore as you alter the "speed" and "torque" of the motor it MUST alter the current. Let's create an example.

Take a fan that at a *constant* voltage (using a fan controller to lower the speed is NOT changing the voltage from constant to variable) turns at 2000 RPM and produces 200 torque at 1 amp. Kt=200/1 or Kt=200. Now the fan is operating at 2000 RPM we plug the numbers into the equation and we get I (amps) = 200 (produced torque) / 200 (torque constant) solving produces I (amps) = 1. Now with produced torque being an *inverse* relationship where as speed goes down torque goes up. Let's say that we reduced the speed of the fan and double the torque and plug those numbers into the equation. I (amps) = 400 (torque produced) / 200 (torque constant) solving produces, I (amps) = 2. By now you get the idea. Reduce the speed of the fan by more and more and the torque increases exponentially and so does the current.


----------



## Ceadderman

Okay Bubba, whatever you say.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kokin

@Bubba: Not to argue against you, but you're implying/assuming that the fans always run at what they are rated at. Even in open air, none of my 2200RPM Yate Loons nor my 2150RPM GTs run at those rated speeds/voltage/current (I've measured them). There are always fluctuations and each fan/motor has varying fluctuations even within the same model and batch.

Even with (ideally perfect) matching fans in push/pull in a rad, one fan will always run slower. I've experienced this with my own rad/fans, so while theory is always great to have, real life results is what really counts.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

*banging head against wall* OH MY GOD!!

A fluctuation of 1% doesn't change Voltage from "constant" to suddenly "variable" the same goes for everything else. *Fluctiations of 1 - 2% are within the NORMAL operating range unless you're NASA*. I'm not saying that if you take a fan that is 1200 RPM and match it with a fan that is 1500 RPM that you are likely to notice any degredation in the fan in the amount of years that you own it if at all. But we're not talking about a small difference here. The OP of the fans in question is matching a *3900 RPM fan with over double the cfm and almost twice the RPM of a standard case fan*. You can argue it all you want but the math and the science doesn't lie. This goes *far* beyond just a little mismatch between some normal case fans.

I'm going to throw down the gauntlet right now. PROVE ME WRONG. Let's see your hard evidence that matching two fans together with those specifications will *HAVE ZERO AFFECT ON THE HEALTH AND LONGEVITY OF THE FANS MOTOR*.


----------



## Ceadderman

I could be wrong but I believe said gentleman is only running the one fan atm and had asked if it was okay to run a slower fan with it. With a fan controller on it I don't see why not. I believe (but could be wrong) that this was mentioned to him.

Also again you're making everything straight up perfect world scenario in your argument. When reality is much different than PW scenario. Take my Radiator for Instance. 30Fins Per Inch over 360mm. That's a lot of disrupted air flow. That's why it's recommended to run faster fans with it.

But take the SR1 360 made by the same company(marketed?) which has a lower rated FPI which only require a half rated fan to blow air through it. From what I remember of my H50, it had a reasonable amount of FPI. More so than a Medium rated fan could cool on a hot ambient temp day. So I would think that it's between 18 and 25FPI.

In any case you even say it yourself, that you're talking about an extreme difference in performance here. You're not talking about a 1400rpm fan being pushed by a 2200 rpm fan. You're speaking of Delta or Ultra Kaze thick body fans driving the airflow through a standard 120. Now that you've stated this, what you say makes sense but again a good fan controller will solve that. Even if you didn't use one I doubt that the little bugger would spontaneously burst into flames being overdriven by let's say a Delta Widebody fan.

Maybe you communicated this previously and I missed it. But I'm not the only person who did.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

I'm saying it's the opposite. By adding a radiator to the delta you're increasing the load on the motor. Unless the radiator is lowering the CFM of the delta below the CFM capabilty of the slower speed fan while attached to the radiator (which would NOT be the max stated CFM of the fan), the slower fan will put an even higher load on the motor of the delta. Increased load = decreased speed. Decreased speed = increased torque. Increased torque = increased current (Amps). Increased current (Amps) = increased heat (inside the motor). With the delta already carrying the load caused by the radiator now you're running the risk of adding a far greater load and current to the delta than it is designed for by adding a lower speed fan which would of course reduce the life of the motor. By how much depends on how far past it's ratings it's being pushed. Now when it comes to lightly mismatched fans with say fan 1 that moves 60 CFM @ 2000 RPM and fan 2 that moves 50 CFM @1800 RPM I'm sure that the radiator is lowering the CFM of the first fan below the capability of the second fan and adding it would actually be beneficial since it would help to reduce the pressure caused by the radiator. You could add a fan controller to the delta and the other fan but in order to figure out the safe operating level of said fans now you have to compare specs (RPM is not the only factor that can cause a high mismatch, take two fans that operate at 2000 RPM but different CFM of 200 and 60), calculate the pressure caused by the radiator and how it will affect the CFM of the fans, etc. etc, in order to come up with a correct operating speed for the delta (or other more powerful fan). It's much simpler and less risky to just use two fans that are exactly the same or close in specifications (lightly mismated as we discussed before).


----------



## TomcatV

WoW didn't mean to stir the pot, but it is an interesting discussion







I love "theory" and proported scientific "fact"







It's what feeds our curiousity/ingenuity to produce "Real World" results ... I wanted to better understand the science behind why my bastardized H100 setup was working so well. I fully intended to buy 2 more matching fans, or 4 more new fans for a full push/pull setup ... but I see no reason to! Further confirmed by a heatwave we had out here on the west coast a couple weeks ago. The H100 performed beautifully, even on Low in a pretty HOT ambient environment (90-95F







). And actually my system only became unstable due to the Northbridge overheating










If interested you can read more here ... *Holy Heatwave Batman - Z68 chipset overheating!*
http://www.overclock.net/t/1247417/holy-heatwave-batman-z68-chipset-overheating#post_17062743

Bastardized H100 push/pull CM200mm pull fan











Quick fix Northbridge cooling











Thanks to all! for the stimulating discussion


----------



## .theMetal

I cant even imagine trying to overclock in northern nevada (I grew up in Battle Mountain







)

I didn't start building computers until a year ago or so, and colorado winters make for amazing overclocks









also nice solution with the big fans


----------



## Mergatroid

Actually, I have always been maintaining discussion about fans in the same ballpark, as I have stated in multiple posts. However, I don't think the burden of proof is on our side of the argument. In your response to the opening post you said that matching those two particular fans would burn one of them out, and that's almost a quote.

I say, even if they are really overmatched, although it may reduce the lifespan of whatever is the weaker fan, it's not going to "burn anything out". And I even asked for any links to evidence of mismatched fans in anyone's case or cooler causing one fan to burn out. Nothing was offered up. I cannot prove a negative. How long would I have to run them before it would be considered "not burning out"?

Sure, if you increase the revs of a bearing not designed to handle it you're going to shorten the lifespan of the bearing. By how much depends on just how much you overwork them. But it's the same for ANYTHING. Including overclocking CPUs and video cards. Anything run past it's design will have its lifespan shortened. The question is, if you ran these two particular fans in a system, how long would it take for one of the fans to fail. You were outright saying "one fan will burn out", and later you said the extra current produced could melt the armature wiring.

I say, unless you define perhaps a 50% shortened lifespan as "burning it out", that even fans as miss matched as these two are will not produce enough of a problem to shorten the lifespan on a fan enough to consider it "burning out", and further that it would not melt the armature wire. I will offer a sidebar here that IMO, this would partially depend on the quality of the fans in question. I've seen fans rated for years fail in days. I also maintain that you're not going to get 148 cfm through a rad, but exactly how much the airflow would be reduced I'm not sure since I don't have the equipment to test that. Even the grill in a case decreases airflow.

However, I still maintain that in this case the pull fan being this much weaker will effect the airflow enough to reduce the effectiveness of the cooler, while fans "in the same ballpark" as I have been consistently saying, would be unlikely to affect the performance at all. As I mentioned, referring to "ballpark fans", I have a mismatched set here right now that work just fine together. So, as I said in my previous post:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> What you say may be true in extreme cases.


I consider the mismatch in the op as approaching extreme. I wouldn't match those two fans myself without a fan controller, but would the lifespan of the slower fan be reduced enough to be considered "burning out the fan"? Well, I'm overclocking my CPU by about 25%, so if my CPU dies in the future, even though it's lasted for years, can that be strictly considered "the overclock burned out your cpu"?, I would say maybe if it happened soon after overclocking, but if it happens after years of use I would say it just wore out. Sure the overclock contributed, but it didn't "burn it out". That's what I'm saying about the fans. I suppose we could always test it out somehow, but personally I don't feel like running a couple of fans long enough to burn them out.

I still maintain my answer regarding miss matched fans has always been about ballpark fans, and I consider the op fans on the edge of what I would consider extreme but I still don't think there would be any "burning out" or "wire melting".


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Actually it's the opposite. And I still stand by my statement. By combining such highly mismatched fans together you run the very real risk of burning out the motor in the *higher* speed/cfm fan. Again as you increase the load on the motor you increase the current. As you increase the current you increase the heat. As you increase the heat at some point it *will* burn out the motor. The only question is *if* the motor of the delta can withstand the increased current flow through the windings of the motor. Why anyone would say matching two fans like that (and of course adding a fan controller is a different scenario which in his original question he *didn't* mention but still has it's own complications) is quote "not going to do anything to the fans" unqoute is beyond me.


----------



## Mergatroid

I think you're putting too much weight on the obstacle that pull fan provides. I think the rad is just as much of an obstacle as the fan is. I don't think the added effect on the push fan would cause a problem, at least not in this case.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

*Unless* the radiator reduces the ability of the Delta in either push or pull to *below* the cfm capability of the other fan while attached to a radiator (the slower fan *will not* be at it's maximum stated CFM regardless of wether or not another fan is attached to the radiator because of issues like turbulance caused by being close to the fins) the slower fan *will* put an even higher load on the more powerful fan. You're ignoring one simple fact. With the delta attached to the radiator pulling air through it, air traveling into the radiator is traveling in a straight direction into the radiator. With another fan attached the air will be entering into the fins of the radiator at the exact angle of the blades of the fan. So unless the lower speed fan has the capability to push air into the radiator at a higher rate then the delta is pulling, then it *will* cause even higher drag than the radiator alone and a higher load on the delta. Higher load = lower speed = higher torque = higher current.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> *...air traveling into the radiator is traveling in a straight direction into the radiator*. .


I'm still trying to wrap my brain around this failed concept so I'm only going to address it because there is just too much fail in it.









Yeah air flows through the radiator but much of the time based on how Radiators are made, 100% of the air doesn't pass through cleanly. Not even when you add a shroud. There will always be some turbulence between the fan and the fins. That turbulence leads to blowback or more commonly known as cavitation.

Cavitation as you may hopefully understand will lessen the amount of flow.









Ask your Pops about Cavitation. Him being a Navy man should be able to answer any questions regarding it. Air is much like water in this regard.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm still trying to wrap my brain around this failed concept so I'm only going to address it because there is just too much fail in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah air flows through the radiator but much of the time based on how Radiators are made, 100% of the air doesn't pass through cleanly. Not even when you add a shroud. There will always be some turbulence between the fan and the fins. That turbulence leads to blowback or more commonly known as cavitation.
> Cavitation as you may hopefully understand will lessen the amount of flow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ask your Pops about Cavitation. Him being a Navy man should be able to answer any questions regarding it. Air is much like water in this regard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Let me clarify because you aren't understanding what I'm saying. Air moving INTO the radiator when there is a fan *on the other side* will be travelling in a perpendicular direction to the "face" of the radiator *before* entering the fins. You add a fan to that side and now the dynamics change. *Not onlyl* do you have the affects of cavitation but the air is already travelling at a different angle as it leaves the blades of the fan then if there were no fan on that side to begin with. The point being that simply adding a fan to the other side doesn't just *feed* air indescriminately for the pull fan to use as has been suggested previously. So as I stated before *unless* the pull fan is slowed enough for the slower push fan to assist in overcoming the drag caused by the radiator it is going to *add* to the drag not reduce it. And we get right back to added drag causing added torque which causes added current etc. etc.

edit - i.e. you can't say "oh the delta is now only moving 80 CFM through the radiator so if I add a fan spec'd at 80 CFM then everything is all sunshine and roses".

Oh and by the way, I was an RM/IT for over 9 years. Just because your in the Navy doesn't mean you know everything about cavitation. Most wouldn't even be able to adequately describe the fundamentals of it as it has nothing whatsoever to do with their job and any encounter with it will be in a generally described sense. Hell, for over half that time I was in the specwar side not the haze grey side.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm still trying to wrap my brain around this failed concept so I'm only going to address it because there is just too much fail in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah air flows through the radiator but much of the time based on how Radiators are made, 100% of the air doesn't pass through cleanly. Not even when you add a shroud. There will always be some turbulence between the fan and the fins. That turbulence leads to blowback or more commonly known as cavitation.
> Cavitation as you may hopefully understand will lessen the amount of flow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ask your Pops about Cavitation. Him being a Navy man should be able to answer any questions regarding it. Air is much like water in this regard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me clarify because you aren't understanding what I'm saying. Air moving INTO the radiator when there is a fan *on the other side* will be travelling in a perpendicular direction to the "face" of the radiator *before* entering the fins. You add a fan to that side and now the dynamics change. *Not onlyl* do you have the affects of cavitation but the air is already travelling at a different angle as it leaves the blades of the fan then if there were no fan on that side to begin with. The point being that simply adding a fan to the other side doesn't just *feed* air indescriminately for the pull fan to use as has been suggested previously. So as I stated before *unless* the pull fan is slowed enough for the slower push fan to assist in overcoming the drag caused by the radiator it is going to *add* to the drag not reduce it. And we get right back to added drag causing added torque which causes added current etc. etc.
> 
> edit - i.e. you can't say "oh the delta is now only moving 80 CFM through the radiator so if I add a fan spec'd at 80 CFM then everything is all sunshine and roses".
> 
> Oh and by the way, I was an RM/IT for over 9 years. Just because your in the Navy doesn't mean you know everything about cavitation. Most wouldn't even be able to adequately describe the fundamentals of it as it has nothing whatsoever to do with their job and any encounter with it will be in a generally described sense. Hell, for over half that time I was in the specwar side not the haze grey side.
Click to expand...

My Grandfather was a Radioman who served aboard the Battleship Arizona and by sheer luck narrowly escaped certain doom when he was disharged and said his farewell at Treasure Island on her final visit to the San Francisco bay. Won't get into the IT side of things but I'm an ex Deck Ape who worked with 26 and 40 foot MWB and Captain's Gig aboard a Battleship myself. I did more than that as well just not a specific Rate, but one thing I do know about is the flow dynamics of air and water. I've never once stated that the Pull fan relies on the Push fan to operate. I'm simply stating a fact that the Push fan will not overdrive the Pull fan seriously beyond it's limitations.

If I take a Yate Loon High Speed Silent and mount that as Push(2200 rpm) and mount a Yate Loon Low Speed Silent as Pull(1350) and apply manufacturers rated variance(+/- 10%) and taking Cavitation into account, there is no way you drive the Pull fan beyond it's limitation to such a degree that it flames out. In fact the resulting airflow would take the burden off the Pull fan and lower the amount of power required to keep it spinning at whatever speed it will run as a result of being driven by the Push fan.

It's relatively simple and by all means I have no problems with you being curious as to whether or not a seriously unmatched set of fans is bad on one or both fans. But standard 120x25 fans have been running Push/Pull for a very long time and the accepted rule of thumb is that the lower of the two fans is always Pull. Even matched sets have a variance to them due to the 10% rule. And the only way to make sure you get the correct setup is by running off a tached header at full speed and mounting them accordingly.

In any case you weren't accounting for cavitation and the negative effect it has on airflow and the resulting effect it has on CFM.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> My Grandfather was a Radioman who served aboard the Battleship Arizona and by sheer luck narrowly escaped certain doom when he was disharged and said his farewell at Treasure Island on her final visit to the San Francisco bay. Won't get into the IT side of things but I'm an ex Deck Ape who worked with 26 and 40 foot MWB and Captain's Gig aboard a Battleship myself. I did more than that as well just not a specific Rate, but one thing I do know about is the flow dynamics of air and water. I've never once stated that the Pull fan relies on the Push fan to operate. I'm simply stating a fact that the Push fan will not overdrive the Pull fan seriously beyond it's limitations.
> If I take a Yate Loon High Speed Silent and mount that as Push(2200 rpm) and mount a Yate Loon Low Speed Silent as Pull(1350) and apply manufacturers rated variance(+/- 10%) and taking Cavitation into account, there is no way you drive the Pull fan beyond it's limitation to such a degree that it flames out. In fact the resulting airflow would take the burden off the Pull fan and lower the amount of power required to keep it spinning at whatever speed it will run as a result of being driven by the Push fan.
> It's relatively simple and by all means I have no problems with you being curious as to whether or not a seriously unmatched set of fans is bad on one or both fans. But standard 120x25 fans have been running Push/Pull for a very long time and the accepted rule of thumb is that the lower of the two fans is always Pull. Even matched sets have a variance to them due to the 10% rule. And the only way to make sure you get the correct setup is by running off a tached header at full speed and mounting them accordingly.
> In any case you weren't accounting for cavitation and the negative effect it has on airflow and the resulting effect it has on CFM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I was on the Obrien for 3 years 1 year in D.G. and thought I was going to shore duty and ended up (what's called now) a 9613 (they were instituting that to close loop everyone in the community when I was leaving).

Anyways, I agree with you when you take fans that are reasonably matched (or mismatched) that they are going to work in tandem to help overcome the resistence caused by the fins in the radiator. But as the mismatch grows greater at some point the lower cfm fan is going to become an impediment instead of an assister to the flow of air. Think of it this way, take a water pump that can pump 1000 gallons of water per minute that can be varied. Stick it's output or input doesn't matter which to a radiator or anything else that might cause a restriction in flow. Now put a pump that can pump 100 gallons per minute. If you started the variable pump at 10 GPM and plotted the water speed on a chart vs pump speed, as you raised the speed of the pump you would end up with a curve. Once you get past the peak of the curve it's all added torque on the pump motor that gets higher and higher as you try to raise the pump speed higher and higher. The principle is the same for the fans attached to the radiator. Whether or not the motor in the fan or the pump burns out depends on it's current capacity and if it's exceeded.

*edit - to clarify as you climb the curve you're decreasing torque on pump one, after the peak as you drop you're increasing torque on pump two.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> I cant even imagine trying to overclock in northern nevada (I grew up in Battle Mountain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> also nice solution with the big fans


Battle Mtn







High desert ... great for OC's in the winter with quite common single digit temps!, Reno is pretty much the same just a bit milder all around







... it's the friggin dust that's a problem







Love Colorado, lived all over the western slope in my younger days.

Back to the mis-matched fan scenario/discussion? I feel my real world results [4.6GHz OC w/65c max load @ 90+F ambients] with my "Bastardized H100" [2x120mm 92cfm total PUSH (on Low) W/1x200mm 110cfm PULL]... tells me don't worry about it







.... I was concerned the 200mm might be causing some? "cavitation" with the 120's intake?, even if it is you can't argue degraded performance.

NOW do I dare bring up the parameters of a fans "Static Pressure" into the equation? BECAUSE you really can't just compare "straight' CFM/rpm vs CFM/rpm when a radiator and "static pressure" is involved ... where is that Cal-Tech professor/scientists when you need one LoL


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Battle Mtn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> High desert ... great for OC's in the winter with quite common single digit temps!, Reno is pretty much the same just a bit milder all around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... it's the friggin dust that's a problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love Colorado, lived all over the western slope in my younger days.


gotta love it


----------



## Mergatroid

I think it comes down to this:

I could mount the delta facing a wall. I could mount it so there's just barely enough room for air to flow out between the wall and the fan. This would be more obstacle and create more back pressure than a slower fan ever would. This still would not burn out the delta fan.

If a wall wouldn't burn out the fan, neither would adding another slower fan. How's that for logic?

I'm not going to argue about it any more.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I think it comes down to this:
> I could mount the delta facing a wall. I could mount it so there's just barely enough room for air to flow out between the wall and the fan. This would be more obstacle and create more back pressure than a slower fan ever would. This still would not burn out the delta fan.
> If a wall wouldn't burn out the fan, neither would adding another slower fan. How's that for logic?
> I'm not going to argue about it any more.


I dare you to do it. A common high school experiment is to take two box fans. Put one in the center of the room and put the other up against a wall. Before the class is over the one against the wall will have a burned out motor.

*Edit - Quote from information found at phillipselectric.com

Over-current Failures:
Over-current failures happen most often when
operating conditions cause devices to draw substantially
more current than their rated load capacity.
They tend to happen suddenly, and are
not conducive to preventive procedures or predictive
measurements.

A slide on the heat component of DC motor failure



*edit - Just got this as a response from scythe,

From: Ramon Pascua ([email protected])

Sent: Thu 5/10/12 10:32 AM

To: [email protected]

Hello Stephen,

Thank you so much for this feedback and we will inform our design engineers from Japan regarding this matter. As soon as we get their response we will contact you regarding their technical advice.

Best Regards

SCYTHE-USA RMA/ Support

14335 E. Don Julian Rd.

I'll keep everyone updated as I receive a response.

*another edit - Mergatroid I just noticed in a previous post where you mentioned your H50 pump buzzes. How do you have your radiator oriented? I noticed on mine that the noise would decrease by quite a bit if I oriented it so that the tubes are on the bottom. I think it might have to do with air getting in the line maybe?


----------



## Mergatroid

I have tried all orientations for the rad. I have settled with the tubes at the top. It's not very loud and can only be heard when you're working in the case with the sides off.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Ahhhh....yeah. I could hear mine too with the case sides off...like a soft purr. But with the rad the other direction I could hear mine with the case closed up. I'm only guessing at the reason why.


----------



## combatant3219

Well I never thought my original question would cause such hot debate and whilst some of the more technical stuff is a little beyond my understanding I certainly appreciate the input!









So I've done a little bit of testing and whilst I haven't taken any screen shots, here is what I did.
First off I'll just say that airflow in the Alienware case is not ideal and there is a not a lot of room to improve this but I'll just have to live with it until I upgrade somewhere down the track.

The original set up was with just the Delta fan pulling air through the radiator and exhausting air out the back of the case. Because of the restricted intake airflow I had modified the top of the case and added 2 x 120mm Enermax TB Silence fans to intake cool air.

Keeping this config I then added a Corsair fan to the other side of the rad to push air through. The results were negligible.

I then took the corsair fan off and changed the orientation of the Delta fan so it was pushing air through the rad in an intake config. I also altered the config of the 2x120mm fans on top of the case so these would exhaust the hot air coming off the radiator. This config actually lowered temps by 3-4*C. Given this result I decided to keep the intake config for my next test.

Now I removed the Delta and put the 2x corsair fans on in a push/pull intake config. Temps were no real improvement over the original config, perhaps 1*C better.

The only test I just realized I haven't done is Delta push/Corsair pull in an intake config, but at this point the single Delta fan with an intake config pushing air through the rad is giving me the best temps.

All tests were done at an ambient temp of 25*C.

I'll report back once I've done the final test with the added corsair fan.

Thanks for everyone's input!









Edit: I didn't bother testing the other 2 Enermax fans I had on the rad as the specs of these fans as far as static pressure goes was below that of the Corsair fans.


----------



## twitch133

I would like to join the club! Here's an obligatory pic...


IMG_1070 by twitch133, on Flickr


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitch133*
> 
> I would like to join the club! Here's an obligatory pic...
> 
> 
> IMG_1070 by twitch133, on Flickr


Very kewl Mr. twitch. I'm a sucker for 932 builds.









You can add yourself in OP however.









~Ceadder


----------



## Krusher33

Y'all made my head hurt with all that technical stuff.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Y'all made my head hurt with all that technical stuff.












~Ceadder


----------



## twitch133

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Very kewl Mr. twitch. I'm a sucker for 932 builds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can add yourself in OP however.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thank you sir. I have added myself....


----------



## eduncan911

Does anyone know if the CoolIT Vantage will fit the LGA2011 socket? I think it's the same base as the Coolit Eco.

I know the Asus high-end boards allow you to remove the LGA2011 socket mounts, which should allow it to fit.

But, uh, I do not have an Asus board (ASRock X79 Fatal1ty, which is not removable).

Or, does anyone know what type of mounting hardware/adapter is used on the Vantage? I am MORE than happy to buy an adapter to make the Vantage work on the LGA2011.

I'm pretty sure the base is large enough for the processor die.

Thanks!


----------



## aas88keyz

OK folks. I know H80 airflow is always debated and it seems that the Intakes have it but I guess I have a dumb question for my setup. I finally got my Phenom II 965 oc'd to 4170 MHz at 56*C stable load with a H80 intake. Before I upgraded my case and motherboard my temps were a lot lower at 4.2GHz and I have reseated the water block a few times and even got the G751 TIM and lowered my temps by probably a couple degrees. I want to be where I was before I started switching around things and willing to try anything.

I have my H80 in the top rear of the case as intake, I have 2 fans up top as exhaust, one large fan up front as intake pointing towards my hard drives and video card, and finally a large side panel fan as exhaust for the video card. My motherboard stays at 34-35*C whether at load or idle. The H80 as intake is a couple inches from the wall with not much air circulation back there, I have a air conditioning vent on the ceiling blowing down into my ceiling fan making it almost chilly in my room. I don't believe enough of this air is getting to the back of my case. Here is my question. Would it be a better setup for me to intake my top fans taking in the cool air from the air conditioning and exhaust my H80 from the back of my case to the couple inches of wall space. Would this make a better difference in cooler cpu temps and a steady or better temps for my motherboard components? Best guesses and proven scientific answers all welcome. Thanks in advance.


----------



## tvm777

Im not such expert, BUT, it will be better if you take COLD air from OUTSIDE ur case, to pull air to ur RAD.
So, obviusly the hotter air will go inside ur case, right? well u need to make ur airflow goes from front to back
idk, if i explained it, but its easy and quite obvius once u realize it


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Would it be a better setup for me to intake my top fans taking in the cool air from the air conditioning and exhaust my H80 from the back of my case to the couple inches of wall space. Would this make a better difference in cooler cpu temps and a steady or better temps for my motherboard components? Best guesses and proven scientific answers all welcome. Thanks in advance.


Not a bad idea and worth a shot. If I had to guess, right now the air exhausting from GPU and air from the PSU is going out the back as well and then the H80 is taking in its warm air. Even if it's not going out the back, maybe the side panel fan is not pulling enough of that air out. So I would also flip that side panel fan to blow in instead. The airflow from the front fan is probably being broken up by the drives and so I would think it's weak for airflow.

And what about the PSU? Is it intaking from bottom or from within the case?


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Not a bad idea and worth a shot. If I had to guess, right now the air exhausting from GPU and air from the PSU is going out the back as well and then the H80 is taking in its warm air. Even if it's not going out the back, maybe the side panel fan is not pulling enough of that air out. So I would also flip that side panel fan to blow in instead. The airflow from the front fan is probably being broken up by the drives and so I would think it's weak for airflow.
> And what about the PSU? Is it intaking from bottom or from within the case?


PSU fan is pointing down from the bottom of the case. TBH I don't really know if the psu fan is intake or exhaust but I can't imagine it getting much airflow between the case and the carpet, I only face it down because it is the only way I can reach the cpu cable to the board from the back side panel to the top. If that is clear as mud. So you are saying that my only exhaust would be the H80 and all the other fans are intakes?


----------



## Witchdoctor

Set your case on a peice of plexi glass or plywood

that will help keep your PS alive


----------



## HiDe85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> WoW didn't mean to stir the pot, but it is an interesting discussion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love "theory" and proported scientific "fact"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's what feeds our curiousity/ingenuity to produce "Real World" results ... I wanted to better understand the science behind why my bastardized H100 setup was working so well. I fully intended to buy 2 more matching fans, or 4 more new fans for a full push/pull setup ... but I see no reason to! Further confirmed by a heatwave we had out here on the west coast a couple weeks ago. The H100 performed beautifully, even on Low in a pretty HOT ambient environment (90-95F
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). And actually my system only became unstable due to the Northbridge overheating
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If interested you can read more here ... *Holy Heatwave Batman - Z68 chipset overheating!*
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1247417/holy-heatwave-batman-z68-chipset-overheating#post_17062743
> Bastardized H100 push/pull CM200mm pull fan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick fix Northbridge cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to all! for the stimulating discussion


Hahahaha i have the same, the 200mm outside XD


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Witchdoctor*
> 
> Set your case on a peice of plexi glass or plywood
> that will help keep your PS alive


^This. The PSU needs the air.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> PSU fan is pointing down from the bottom of the case. TBH I don't really know if the psu fan is intake or exhaust but I can't imagine it getting much airflow between the case and the carpet, I only face it down because it is the only way I can reach the cpu cable to the board from the back side panel to the top. If that is clear as mud. So you are saying that my only exhaust would be the H80 and all the other fans are intakes?


I'd say the 2 top fans as exhaust as well. Unless that AC vent is within a few feet of the case?

I had my 2 top fans as intake one time. I flipped them both over and got better temps for some reason. But then again I have 2 fans on my side so it's probably quite different from yours.


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> ^This. The PSU needs the air.
> I'd say the 2 top fans as exhaust as well. Unless that AC vent is within a few feet of the case?
> I had my 2 top fans as intake one time. I flipped them both over and got better temps for some reason. But then again I have 2 fans on my side so it's probably quite different from yours.


stupid question but I don't remember if all PSU fans are intake or exhaust. Am I blowing air under the case or is it trying to suck air from the bottom? I am asking so I know if the PSU exhausts out the back, is that hot air being sucked up into my H80's intake? So the game plan right now is all front and side panel case fans will be intake. The top two fans and the H80 will be exhaust. And depending on the PSU airflow I may see if the fan will blow _in_ the case after finding out if my cpu cable can be rearranged to reach the otherway. Right? Wow I didn't expect such a big project today but today is my day so might as well.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> stupid question but I don't remember if all PSU fans are intake or exhaust. Am I blowing air under the case or is it trying to suck air from the bottom? I am asking so I know if the PSU exhausts out the back, is that hot air being sucked up into my H80's intake? So the game plan right now is all front and side panel case fans will be intake. The top two fans and the H80 will be exhaust.


That's how I would do it.
Quote:


> And depending on the PSU airflow I may see if the fan will blow _in_ the case after finding out if my cpu cable can be rearranged to reach the otherway. Right? Wow I didn't expect such a big project today but today is my day so might as well.


Leave the PSU as is. Typically the PSU will make it so that it exhausts to the back so yeah, it should be intaking from the bottom. I usually use a napkin or toilet paper to see which way the fan is blowing.

But do put something under the case or raise it off the carpet some. Mostly for preventive measures. I have hardwood flooring and I still raised it off the floor some.


----------



## aas88keyz

Thanks for your advice. I have to check out this new computer shop in the neighborhood and see what they are all about and when I get home I will try the airflow setup as suggested. I will let you all know the results after testing.


----------



## Ceadderman

Coupla books to get it off the carpet would work too.









~Ceadder


----------



## Krusher33

I'm using a couple of 1" x 2" pieces of wood for mine. I wanted to get case feets but bought a fan controller instead.


----------



## .theMetal

I had a piece of glass from a tv stand, and stuck that under my wifes compy that sits on the floor, only disadvantage is its a dusty as mofo.


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> That's how I would do it.
> Leave the PSU as is. Typically the PSU will make it so that it exhausts to the back so yeah, it should be intaking from the bottom. I usually use a napkin or toilet paper to see which way the fan is blowing.
> But do put something under the case or raise it off the carpet some. Mostly for preventive measures. I have hardwood flooring and I still raised it off the floor some.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Coupla books to get it off the carpet would work too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I'm using a couple of 1" x 2" pieces of wood for mine. I wanted to get case feets but bought a fan controller instead.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> I had a piece of glass from a tv stand, and stuck that under my wifes compy that sits on the floor, only disadvantage is its a dusty as mofo.


All sounds like good ideas but the closest I can come to that I can use right now is a big piece of cardboard. Will this be enough for now?


----------



## .theMetal

yea the card board should be fine, double it up and it will support the computer.


----------



## Krusher33

Good enough. Worry about the aesthetics later. I'm just concerned for the PSU is all.


----------



## aas88keyz

OK folks, I rerouted my airflow as suggested but I am coming to the conclusion this time of day gives an unfair disadvantage as it is 109*F outside and even with the house's thermostat set at 78*F I am sweating just sitting here. Anyway as of right now with my top fans and H80 set to exhaust and my side panel and front set to intake, my motherboard appears to be 2*C cooler, my video card is a whopping 7*C cooler, but my cpu is between 1 to 4*C hotter than it averaged last night at 61*C at its highest. For those that don't know the max for my Phenom II 965 is 62*C. Too close. Last night when I tested with IBT I was between 54*C to 57*C. But it was also probably 88*F outside too probably coolings everything down a bit. I will IBT later tonight so I can get fairer results and we will see if there is any improvement. I will let you know.

Oh yeah one more thing. with such a big drop in temps on my video card now that my lower side panel fan is intake I thought to grab an old case fan from my storage and tried installing one on my upper side panel to cool the top. unfortunately it won't fit being the panel won't close where the H80 is located so unfortunately that is out. We will just see how tonight goes.


----------



## aas88keyz

It is currently 31*C outside and a nice cold air conditioner inside and I received disappointment in my recent IBT testing. My motherboard is reading 33*C which is 2* cooler since changing my airflow. my video card is 50*C from 57*C before. Unfortunately I hit 63*C tonight on my cpu from 57*C max last night with my H80 as exhaust instead of intake. All are full IBT load results. 63*C is definately scary. I always thought my pc would automatically restart or shut down if it reached it recommended max but I see that isn't necesarily true. Back to the drawing board. Would I be wrong if I set my top two fans to intake to feed cool air to my H80 inside or is that wishful thinking and a waste of time?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> It is currently 31*C outside and a nice cold air conditioner inside and I received disappointment in my recent IBT testing. My motherboard is reading 33*C which is 2* cooler since changing my airflow. my video card is 50*C from 57*C before. Unfortunately I hit 63*C tonight on my cpu from 57*C max last night with my H80 as exhaust instead of intake. All are full IBT load results. 63*C is definately scary. I always thought my pc would automatically restart or shut down if it reached it recommended max but I see that isn't necesarily true. Back to the drawing board. Would I be wrong if I set my top two fans to intake to feed cool air to my H80 inside or is that wishful thinking and a waste of time?


Have you tried mounting the radiator in the 5.25 bays using the fans and zipties to hold it in? Trying intake at the back isn't all that when your GPU exhausts below it out the back. There are plenty of Hydro Series owners that did this with their systems to decent success.









~Ceadder


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Have you tried mounting the radiator in the 5.25 bays using the fans and zipties to hold it in? Trying intake at the back isn't all that when your GPU exhausts below it out the back. There are plenty of Hydro Series owners that did this with their systems to decent success.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Very interesting. I will look into that and see how difficult that might be. I have the one blu-ray drive so it may fit. I have tons of ties that came with the case. Now will I make the h80 intake if I put it up front in the 5.25 bays? I am assuming yes. That just makes sense. Not much exerience modding though so this will be a new challenge for me.


----------



## aas88keyz

Eureka! I finally found some temps I can deal with. Though, I tried to fit the radiator in the 5.25 bay area but the radiator was to big in both directions. So instead, since I had the case open anyway, I turned the upper dual fans to intake. Now I have a large front intake in front of the hard drives a large side panel intake cooling the lower motherboard and video card, 2 top fans as intake for the upper motherboard and hopefully feeding the H80 which is right now my only exhaust. My motherboard went up 1*C to 34* from last night which I can deal with. My cpu went from 63*C load down to 52 to 53*C. It only went up to 55*C max at one time. So cpu wise I started with 57*C to 63*C last night and finally to 53*C this morning. Again I can only assume that the top fans are feeding the air from the air condition and ceiling fan into the case and feeding it to my H80 fans and radiator. I will be satisfied with this for a while. This will allow me to add this sig rig back into FAH CC duty and I might look at it again when it is finished. If there is anymore suggestions on how I can improve on this let me know. I know this is just a Phenom II 965 and I would prefer to be running a FX-8150 but this will have to do until I can maybe invest in a "piledriver" to cool with my H80 if it is compatible. We will see. Thanks for all your help guys.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Eureka! I finally found some temps I can deal with. Though, I tried to fit the radiator in the 5.25 bay area but the radiator was to big in both directions. So instead, since I had the case open anyway, I turned the upper dual fans to intake. Now I have a large front intake in front of the hard drives a large side panel intake cooling the lower motherboard and video card, 2 top fans as intake for the upper motherboard and hopefully feeding the H80 which is right now my only exhaust. My motherboard went up 1*C to 34* from last night which I can deal with. My cpu went from 63*C load down to 52 to 53*C. It only went up to 55*C max at one time. So cpu wise I started with 57*C to 63*C last night and finally to 53*C this morning. Again I can only assume that the top fans are feeding the air from the air condition and ceiling fan into the case and feeding it to my H80 fans and radiator. I will be satisfied with this for a while. This will allow me to add this sig rig back into FAH CC duty and I might look at it again when it is finished. If there is anymore suggestions on how I can improve on this let me know. I know this is just a Phenom II 965 and I would prefer to be running a FX-8150 but this will have to do until I can maybe invest in a "piledriver" to cool with my H80 if it is compatible. We will see. Thanks for all your help guys.


Til they get the kinks worked out with 8150, I would stick with 965. Much better clock for clock performer. Now if you're going to be vidro rendering mostly 8150 would be an excellent CPU for that.









Glad you got it worked out though.









~Ceadder


----------



## tvm777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Til they get the kinks worked out with 8150, I would stick with 965. Much better clock for clock performer. Now if you're going to be vidro rendering mostly 8150 would be an excellent CPU for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad you got it worked out though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


what u mean with this phrase:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Til they get the kinks worked out with 8150


??


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Eureka! I finally found some temps I can deal with. Though, I tried to fit the radiator in the 5.25 bay area but the radiator was to big in both directions. So instead, since I had the case open anyway, I turned the upper dual fans to intake. Now I have a large front intake in front of the hard drives a large side panel intake cooling the lower motherboard and video card, 2 top fans as intake for the upper motherboard and hopefully feeding the H80 which is right now my only exhaust. My motherboard went up 1*C to 34* from last night which I can deal with. My cpu went from 63*C load down to 52 to 53*C. It only went up to 55*C max at one time. So cpu wise I started with 57*C to 63*C last night and finally to 53*C this morning. Again I can only assume that the top fans are feeding the air from the air condition and ceiling fan into the case and feeding it to my H80 fans and radiator. I will be satisfied with this for a while. This will allow me to add this sig rig back into FAH CC duty and I might look at it again when it is finished. If there is anymore suggestions on how I can improve on this let me know. I know this is just a Phenom II 965 and I would prefer to be running a FX-8150 but this will have to do until I can maybe invest in a "piledriver" to cool with my H80 if it is compatible. We will see. Thanks for all your help guys.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Til they get the kinks worked out with 8150, I would stick with 965. Much better clock for clock performer. Now if you're going to be vidro rendering mostly 8150 would be an excellent CPU for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad you got it worked out though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

I just started doing video rendering but am still learning. But more importantly, does it fold? And of course I have to ask if the H80 is compatible with it? I have a local store that dropped the price to $190. Does that make it any more worth it? It may take me a couple months to be able to afford something like that though. The prices could drop further or the "piledriver" could be coming out by then. I would love to give this H80 something worth cooling. Though if it all works out I could be using the H80 with my 965 in my other rig and my main sig rig could hold the 8150 or "piledriver" and invest in a H100 since I have a game plan to fit it my case. All this requires money. Time for a ramen noodle budget


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Have you tried mounting the radiator in the 5.25 bays using the fans and zipties to hold it in? Trying intake at the back isn't all that when your GPU exhausts below it out the back. There are plenty of Hydro Series owners that did this with their systems to decent success.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Very interesting. I will look into that and see how difficult that might be. I have the one blu-ray drive so it may fit. I have tons of ties that came with the case. Now will I make the h80 intake if I put it up front in the 5.25 bays? I am assuming yes. That just makes sense. Not much exerience modding though so this will be a new challenge for me.


I actually do this with my Kuhler and probably will put the Kuhler at bottom and put my H60 in the drive bays instead. The radiator itself doesn't fit but what I did was zip tied the fan and shroud within the bays and the radiator sits behind the bays with an adhesive foam so it doesn't rattle against the cage. Like so:



If that still don't work but you got 3 empty drive bays... then add a fan in it if you want. Extra intake. There's never too much airflow.







Though it would mean more dust, lol.


----------



## aas88keyz

Nice concept and it might work but I probably couldn't fit push/pull setup of the h80. I would probably lose it's performance wouldn't I?


----------



## Krusher33

Is the board in the way or something?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tvm777*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Til they get the kinks worked out with 8150, I would stick with 965. Much better clock for clock performer. Now if you're going to be vidro rendering mostly 8150 would be an excellent CPU for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad you got it worked out though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what u mean with this phrase:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Til they get the kinks worked out with 8150
> 
> 
> ??
Click to expand...

I mean that AMD has to catch up to its own technology as well as software applications. A lot of people think that Zambezi is fail. I don't. I built a video rendering system for a part time video renderer. It is a very reliable system. But if you're already on a Higher End Quad or Hexacore, it's not worth running out and buying Zambezi for the latest greatest technology yet. The prices are gonna come down in the future when Piledriver gets ready to launch or when Intel brings their prices down to meet the competitive demand. But higher end Phenom II CPU are just fine and can easily keep up with most average demands from the user. Video rendering is pretty much where Zambezi sets itself apart from the herd.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Eureka! I finally found some temps I can deal with. Though, I tried to fit the radiator in the 5.25 bay area but the radiator was to big in both directions. So instead, since I had the case open anyway, I turned the upper dual fans to intake. Now I have a large front intake in front of the hard drives a large side panel intake cooling the lower motherboard and video card, 2 top fans as intake for the upper motherboard and hopefully feeding the H80 which is right now my only exhaust. My motherboard went up 1*C to 34* from last night which I can deal with. My cpu went from 63*C load down to 52 to 53*C. It only went up to 55*C max at one time. So cpu wise I started with 57*C to 63*C last night and finally to 53*C this morning. Again I can only assume that the top fans are feeding the air from the air condition and ceiling fan into the case and feeding it to my H80 fans and radiator. I will be satisfied with this for a while. This will allow me to add this sig rig back into FAH CC duty and I might look at it again when it is finished. If there is anymore suggestions on how I can improve on this let me know. I know this is just a Phenom II 965 and I would prefer to be running a FX-8150 but this will have to do until I can maybe invest in a "piledriver" to cool with my H80 if it is compatible. We will see. Thanks for all your help guys.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Til they get the kinks worked out with 8150, I would stick with 965. Much better clock for clock performer. Now if you're going to be video rendering mostly 8150 would be an excellent CPU for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad you got it worked out though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I just started doing video rendering but am still learning. But more importantly, does it fold? And of course I have to ask if the H80 is compatible with it? I have a local store that dropped the price to $190. Does that make it any more worth it? It may take me a couple months to be able to afford something like that though. The prices could drop further or the "piledriver" could be coming out by then. I would love to give this H80 something worth cooling. Though if it all works out I could be using the H80 with my 965 in my other rig and my main sig rig could hold the 8150 or "piledriver" and invest in a H100 since I have a game plan to fit it my case. All this requires money. Time for a ramen noodle budget
Click to expand...

Oh yeah it folds pretty well. My overall PPD increased about 8k from using 8120 to Fold. I'm pretty sure I could have gotten better from my 955 my 965 and the 8120system I built, but I was only using [email protected] as my stressor for the build before sending it on it's merry way up north.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Nice concept and it might work but I probably couldn't fit push/pull setup of the h80. I would probably lose it's performance wouldn't I?


Nope you shouldn't lose performance if you mount a shroud between the Push fan and the Radiator if you can't mount Pull. If you run without Pull at least try to get a fan grill on the exposed side of the Radiator to minimize the chance of borking the radiator.









~Ceadder


----------



## aas88keyz

I would have to crack open my case again just to be sure that I don't have room for push/pull that way. I will have time this week to do so. But the temps I am getting I could be satisfied with for a while. Not the awesome 48*C temps I was getting with full load at 4.2Ghz but maybe even until my next cpu upgrade which I hope to have saved for a Pile Driver. I would settle for an H100 by then to cool for it if Corsair doesn't release a new version similar to it with better performance. I have seen a good mod for my case to fit the H100 on top in push/pull config and looks easy enough. But as I said, I am getting a lot of free time at home that I just might try some of your solutions for the H80. Question: I have heard of creating shrouds with old fans the same size but idk about ruining any of my good working fans. Don't have any real old ones laying about. Is there a such thing as shrouds I can purchase and install and is it worth the expense?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> I would have to crack open my case again just to be sure that I don't have room for push/pull that way. I will have time this week to do so. But the temps I am getting I could be satisfied with for a while. Not the awesome 48*C temps I was getting with full load at 4.2Ghz but maybe even until my next cpu upgrade which I hope to have saved for a Pile Driver. I would settle for an H100 by then to cool for it if Corsair doesn't release a new version similar to it with better performance. I have seen a good mod for my case to fit the H100 on top in push/pull config and looks easy enough. But as I said, I am getting a lot of free time at home that I just might try some of your solutions for the H80. Question: I have heard of creating shrouds with old fans the same size but idk about ruining any of my good working fans. Don't have any real old ones laying about. Is there a such thing as shrouds I can purchase and install and is it worth the expense?


Yeah modding stores typically have them... such as performance-pcs.com and frozencpu.com. They're generally $10-20... because they're all special like led, clear, choice of colors, etc. I just take a crappy $5 fan and have fun destroying it.









Unless you're getting an H100 for crazy cheap or something... I'd be going for a custom WC kit for a little extra money.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Til they get the kinks worked out with 8150, I would stick with 965. Much better clock for clock performer. Now if you're going to be vidro rendering mostly 8150 would be an excellent CPU for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad you got it worked out though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


How is it a "better clock for clock performer"?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Til they get the kinks worked out with 8150, I would stick with 965. Much better clock for clock performer. Now if you're going to be vidro rendering mostly 8150 would be an excellent CPU for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad you got it worked out though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How is it a "better clock for clock performer"?
Click to expand...

Not again dude. You're not draggin me into this technical data diatribe. I shouldn't have to back my opinion up with facts to suit you. There are enough reviews out there that show that 955, 965 CPUs' perform much to the same level as 8120 and 8150 when Zambezi first launched. You have Google at your disposal if you want the answer use it.

I'm not hating and I even said where 8core FX CPU comes into its own. If you have more than Gaming and General Browsing needs then FX is probably what you need. If your day to day needs to not include rendering pics and vids FX is really not much better than the CHEAPER high end Phenom II Quads.









~Ceadder


----------



## DireLeon2010

Was thinking of moving up to an H80, but I saw a bunch of bad reviews on the Egg including ones about leaking? (The reviews got set to only show 'worst reviews' first







Kinda freaked me out though) What causes leaks on these things? Want to know what to avoid doing.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DireLeon2010*
> 
> Was thinking of moving up to an H80, but I saw a bunch of bad reviews on the Egg including ones about leaking? (The reviews got set to only show 'worst reviews' first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kinda freaked me out though) What causes leaks on these things? Want to know what to avoid doing.


At 10% of verified owners or less with a reported 1 egg I wouldn't sweat it too much. But if you get one make sure to inspect it before use and if you see anything visually contact the egg and request RMA. One guy made mention of bent fins. Didn't mention if it was open box or anything else regarding his purchase.

I always ignore unverified owners cause some people seem to like writing reviews for products they don't own, or if they do own something similar. Or they got the wrong item in their search an it looked like the one they ordered. I've done this last bit unintentionally with RAM so I'm aware of how easy it is to leave a review for a product that you don't own having done it with my Snipers kit.

Anyway I think the way most of these fail is if they aren't setup properly to begin with. If you want something that has little to no maintenance required these Hydros are reasonably solid coolers. The H60 was the only one that I noticed had a problem and that was the mounting design with some Mainboards where the caps line the close proximity to the socket.

I had an H50 and it was a pretty solid little cooler. Kinda laugh at the people complaining about noise though. Don't know where Corsair ever advertised that any of their coolers would run quiet under a high overclock. But I noticed that was a common theme between the 1 egg reviews was "Noisy" and "I'm running a high overclock". Well hur durrrr of course it's loud, the fans are ramped up to keep the CPU cool. If they ran at stock or mild overclocks do they think the fans would be ramped up so high?









The reviews to look at are 3 and up, and then compare them with the reviews of 2 eggs. I usually look at 3 egg reviews first. If most of them are skewed slightly in either direction I count up the sample size and look in the direction of the skew. If they're more negative 3 egg I look 2 or less. If more positive I look at 4 and compare that sampling with 2 egg sampling. Make sure to check verified owners only.









~Ceadder


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DireLeon2010*
> 
> Was thinking of moving up to an H80, but I saw a bunch of bad reviews on the Egg including ones about leaking? (The reviews got set to only show 'worst reviews' first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kinda freaked me out though) What causes leaks on these things? Want to know what to avoid doing.


I've only heard of a couple of them leaked and it was fault on the user being silly. One guy literally bent the crap out of a tube while the other did something to the radiator ( can't remember what though).

Corsair has a pretty good warranty policy when it comes to leaks though. Provided it wasn't the user doing some sort of abnormal abuse to it.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not again dude. You're not draggin me into this technical data diatribe. I shouldn't have to back my opinion up with facts to suit you. There are enough reviews out there that show that 955, 965 CPUs' perform much to the same level as 8120 and 8150 when Zambezi first launched. You have Google at your disposal if you want the answer use it.
> I'm not hating and I even said where 8core FX CPU comes into its own. If you have more than Gaming and General Browsing needs then FX is probably what you need. If your day to day needs to not include rendering pics and vids FX is really not much better than the CHEAPER high end Phenom II Quads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Actually, I don't have to search the reviews. We've already PROVEN that your statement is wrong. It can't even beat my 6100 in all of the benchmarks clock for clock. The reason you don't "back up your opinion with facts" is because there are none to back it up. Other than a few single threaded marginal wins it doesn't even beat the 6100 in the rest of the benches. So why don't you start telling the truth instead of spreading "faildozer" propaganda.

To everyone elese, look here for the REAL story on clock for clock performance (all of the 965 results aren't in yet but take a look at the submitted 980 results so far and you'll get the full picture) - http://www.overclock.net/t/1251047/epic-fx-vs-phenom-ii-grudge-match-amd-slug-it-out-orama-2012/0_20


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> To everyone elese, look here for the REAL story on clock for clock performance (all of the 965 results aren't in yet but take a look at the submitted 980 results so far and you'll get the full picture) - http://www.overclock.net/t/1251047/epic-fx-vs-phenom-ii-grudge-match-amd-slug-it-out-orama-2012/0_20


I'm not impressed by the round 1 results just comparing the 1055t with FX's but I look forward to the round 2 results.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

So am I (if I can get everyone out of wherever their hiding now). But I'm going to raise the BS flag whenever someone makes claims like "the 965 is better clock for clock than an FX" when it is clearly not true (and you gotta love that they don't even attempt at backing it up with facts).


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DireLeon2010*
> 
> Was thinking of moving up to an H80, but I saw a bunch of bad reviews on the Egg including ones about leaking? (The reviews got set to only show 'worst reviews' first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kinda freaked me out though) What causes leaks on these things? Want to know what to avoid doing.


You have to remember that 90% of reviewers on Newegg and Tiger Direct really have no clue. People who know next to nothing but give themselves full tech marks. Putting hard drive cages in backwards, over flexing tubing and complaining about leaking. Not measuring or checking specs for fit before ordering.

Sometimes, just for a laugh when I'm bored, I'll go to those sites and read the reviews on things I own and I know are good products. As the saying goes, most of them don't know their a$$ from a hole in the ground.

One guy, who called himself an enthusiast, bought a perfectly working H70 from me and claimed he couldn't get it to work and that I sold him a faulty used water cooler. Meanwhile, I had posts all over this site with temperature charts and pictures showing it working perfectly before I replaced it with an H100.

Here are a couple of facts for you:

1: The H80 gets excellent reviews from review sites.

2: Sites like the one you're on right now rank the H80 fairly high.

3. Corsair warranties the H80 for five (5) years.

4. In any case I've heard of where a Corsair cooler leaked due to a manufacturing defect (and I can count them on one hand), Corsair has replaced any equipment that was damaged by the leaking, at times with better equipment.

Most of these water coolers are made by two companies, and they have been around long enough to get the manufacturing down pretty good. As you can see, many people put multiple different water coolers in their cases for CPU, and one or two GPUs as well. Obviously these people trust the manufacturers to put that many closed loop water coolers in their cases.


----------



## DireLeon2010

Yeah, kinda figured it was the 'goofy-noob' factor. Thanks for the reassurance guys.

Wish I could fit an H100 in this case. Every time I look at the price of the H80 I'm like, but....but....nooooo!!!


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

I checked....the warranty on the corsair hydro series is 2 years.

Edit - Belay my last, That's on the h50 & h70

Cooling Products
•Hydro Series™ (Models H60, H80, and H100) have a 5 year warranty
•Hydro Series (Models H50 and H70) have a 2 year warranty
•Air Series™ products (Models A50 and A70) have a 2 year warranty


----------



## Psyrical

Hey guys, , quick question about these cooling system, I'm new to building computers bare with me please.

Do all the coolers in the Hydro Series use liquid? I noticed that the type of certain Cosair Coolers are either "CPU Block" or "Liquid Cooling System." Example the H60 Cooler is type CPU Block and the H80 Cooler is type Liquid Cooling System. What's the difference? Where does the water go or is there water at all? I notice there's fans and a tube, so does the tube just blow air through the tube to the CPU?


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psyrical*
> 
> Hey guys, , quick question about these cooling system, I'm new to building computers bare with me please.
> Do all the coolers in the Hydro Series use liquid? I noticed that the type of certain Cosair Coolers are either "CPU Block" or "Liquid Cooling System." Example the H60 Cooler is type CPU Block and the H80 Cooler is type Liquid Cooling System. What's the difference? Where does the water go or is there water at all? I notice there's fans and a tube, so does the tube just blow air through the tube and to the CPU?


They all use the same thing. Distilled water with a glycol mixture additive.


----------



## Psyrical

Oh so you never ever have to add water or anything to the cooler, H100 for example. You just install the fans and it runs like that?


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psyrical*
> 
> Oh so you never ever have to add water or anything to the cooler, H100 for example. You just install the fans and it runs like that?


No it's a sealed closed loop system.


----------



## Psyrical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> No it's a sealed closed loop system.


Okay thanks a lot man.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> So am I (if I can get everyone out of wherever their hiding now). But I'm going to raise the BS flag whenever someone makes claims like "the 965 is better clock for clock than an FX" when it is clearly not true (and you gotta love that they don't even attempt at backing it up with facts).


So Reviews aren't facts? Reviews that included 955 and 965?

Talk about revisionist history.









This ain't the place for this topic however since it's for the HYDRO series Coolers. Not the FX Series CPU. I'm going off the reviews and the reviews show that clock for clock it's not worth buying an FX CPU if you're already on a higher end Phenom II. You can't argue with that because regardless of your feelings the price to performance ratio doesn't warrant the purchase.

You're acting like I'm anti AMD. Please just reign it in and let it go. I have facts and they're well known. It's not like I'm saying anything new on the subject. Tryin to save a guy a couple hundred is not a criminal offense. So please chill. You don't like what I say here then PM me and make your case. Leave it out of the thread please. Can we now get back to the topic?









*Edit* Official Review thread.

But yeah I don't have any facts right?









~Ceadder


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So Reviews aren't facts? Reviews that included 955 and 965?
> Talk about revisionist history.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This ain't the place for this topic however since it's for the HYDRO series Coolers. Not the FX Series CPU. I'm going off the reviews and the reviews show that clock for clock it's not worth buying an FX CPU if you're already on a higher end Phenom II. You can't argue with that because regardless of your feelings the price to performance ratio doesn't warrant the purchase.
> You're acting like I'm anti AMD. Please just reign it in and let it go. I have facts and they're well known. It's not like I'm saying anything new on the subject. Tryin to save a guy a couple hundred is not a criminal offense. So please chill. You don't like what I say here then PM me and make your case. Leave it out of the thread please. Can we now get back to the topic?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit* Official Review thread.
> But yeah I don't have any facts right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You're right....this isn't the thread for that. So I'll leave you with one last fact. Those same reviews you talk about, are they "clock for clock" comparisons as you keep using when talking about which is better? Or "stock vs stock"? (hint I already know the answer)


----------



## Krusher33

Stop playing the "I gotta have the last say" guys... seriously, lol.

The other night I was testing my 1055T at 4.0 ghz with 1.51v and saw my cores hit about 48-50c using the H60 with GT 2150's. I want to add a shroud but then it'll hover over my VRM's and I'll have to remove 1 of the 2 fans from my side panel.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Modified H40 loop using the H50 copper cpu block and the radiator from the H50 and H40.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Stop playing the "I gotta have the last say" guys... seriously, lol.
> The other night I was testing my 1055T at 4.0 ghz with 1.51v and saw my cores hit about 48-50c using the H60 with GT 2150's. I want to add a shroud but then it'll hover over my VRM's and I'll have to remove 1 of the 2 fans from my side panel.


I was actually having the same exact problem a few weeks ago before my proc switch out the shroud covered the heatsinks right of the processor



you could always grab up a tiny fan and stick it right on the heatsink. I would have done that but my heat sinks all linked together and there is a lot of air flow in my case so I didn't worry too much

also I suppose I will have to be taken off the h50 list







when I put in my new processor I decided to try the phanteks.

but its memory will live on in my buddy's machine cooling his 2500k


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> Modified H40 loop using the H50 copper cpu block and the radiator from the H50 and H40.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! Not using a reservoir?


----------



## DuckKnuckle

Just a question, would the H70 fit into the Storm Enforcer case? I'm assuming it would?

Thanks, Duck


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

I made a reservoir using a bud light superbowl aluminum bottle, but I couldn't get a good seal on the bottom fitting. The aluminum is too thin and flexes too much. I'm trying to figure out a solution or new idea (trying NOT to buy a res since I just want to tinker).


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> I checked....the warranty on the corsair hydro series is 2 years.
> Edit - Belay my last, That's on the h50 & h70
> Cooling Products
> •Hydro Series™ (Models H60, H80, and H100) have a 5 year warranty
> •Hydro Series (Models H50 and H70) have a 2 year warranty
> •Air Series™ products (Models A50 and A70) have a 2 year warranty


The H40 also only has a 2 year warranty.

The H70 Core has a 5 year warranty:

http://www.corsair.com/en/cpu-cooling-kits/hydro-series-water-cooling-cpu-cooler/hydro-series-h70-core-high-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler.html

They no longer manufacture the H50, so it's only while supplies last.

H40, H60, H70 Core, H80 and H100 are the Hydro series now.

So basically, the entire new Hydro series except the H40 have 5 year warranties. The H40 only has a 2 year warranty, possibly due to the rubber hoses used instead of the low permeability tubing, but we can't be sure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psyrical*
> 
> Hey guys, , quick question about these cooling system, I'm new to building computers bare with me please.
> Do all the coolers in the Hydro Series use liquid? I noticed that the type of certain Cosair Coolers are either "CPU Block" or "Liquid Cooling System." Example the H60 Cooler is type CPU Block and the H80 Cooler is type Liquid Cooling System. What's the difference? Where does the water go or is there water at all? I notice there's fans and a tube, so does the tube just blow air through the tube to the CPU?


The entire Hydro series are liquid coolers. "water block, CPU block, liquid block, pump/block" are all referring to the same thing (closed loop water coolers have their pump located inside the block).

The entire system is full of water (thus "Hydro series"), and the pump/block pumps the water through a hose, into the rad and back to the pump through another hose. It's a closed loop system, so requires no maintenance. Very similar to the way the radiator in your car works. The fan(s) are used to push air through the rad to cool it down.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Stop playing the "I gotta have the last say" guys... seriously, lol.
> The other night I was testing my 1055T at 4.0 ghz with 1.51v and saw my cores hit about 48-50c using the H60 with GT 2150's. I want to add a shroud but then it'll hover over my VRM's and I'll have to remove 1 of the 2 fans from my side panel.


From what I've seen, a shroud will only give you one or two degrees if you see any improvement.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> Modified H40 loop using the H50 copper cpu block and the radiator from the H50 and H40.


Nice paint. Are you sure that pump is strong enough for two rads? What load temp improvement did you get? How long does it take your temp to stabilize?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> I made a reservoir using a bud light superbowl aluminum bottle, but I couldn't get a good seal on the bottom fitting. The aluminum is too thin and flexes too much. I'm trying to figure out a solution or new idea (trying NOT to buy a res since I just want to tinker).


You could go back to the old days when WC first started and use tupperwares.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> From what I've seen, a shroud will only give you one or two degrees if you see any improvement.


5 degrees for me actually. I had to remove the shroud due to VRM's not getting cooled.

Besides... I'm pushing it to the limit here... kinda need anything I can get.


----------



## Mergatroid

Wow, 5c is really high for adding a shroud.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> The H40 also only has a 2 year warranty.
> The H70 Core has a 5 year warranty:
> http://www.corsair.com/en/cpu-cooling-kits/hydro-series-water-cooling-cpu-cooler/hydro-series-h70-core-high-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler.html
> They no longer manufacture the H50, so it's only while supplies last.
> H40, H60, H70 Core, H80 and H100 are the Hydro series now.
> So basically, the entire new Hydro series except the H40 have 5 year warranties. The H40 only has a 2 year warranty, possibly due to the rubber hoses used instead of the low permeability tubing, but we can't be sure.
> The entire Hydro series are liquid coolers. "water block, CPU block, liquid block, pump/block" are all referring to the same thing (closed loop water coolers have their pump located inside the block).
> The entire system is full of water (thus "Hydro series"), and the pump/block pumps the water through a hose, into the rad and back to the pump through another hose. It's a closed loop system, so requires no maintenance. Very similar to the way the radiator in your car works. The fan(s) are used to push air through the rad to cool it down.
> From what I've seen, a shroud will only give you one or two degrees if you see any improvement.
> Nice paint. Are you sure that pump is strong enough for two rads? What load temp improvement did you get? How long does it take your temp to stabilize?


I'm fairly certain the pump is fine for it. The flow rate is the same as with just one rad attached (well checking visually it appeared the same). I'll time it in a little bit and give you time in seconds to go from max IBT burn back to idle temp tonight. "For the temps with the H40 Stock I hit 34C idle and 62C max with 22C ambient at 3.9GHz. With the copper block in the H40 I hit 34C idle and 65C max with 22C ambient at 4.5GHz. With the modified H40 and two radiators I hit 30C idle and 57C max at 4.5GHz with 22C ambient." (taken from my other thread when I tested it 15 mins after connecting it using MX-4 TIM)

Edit - I forgot, those temps are before I switched the top radiator to intake like the other rad. I'll post new temp results in a while.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> You could go back to the old days when WC first started and use tupperwares.
> 5 degrees for me actually. I had to remove the shroud due to VRM's not getting cooled.
> Besides... I'm pushing it to the limit here... kinda need anything I can get.


Not a chance







I'd like it to at least look halfway decent and not like it belongs to the nickname. "woooohooo....look at bubba's fancy cohmpuder der.....he's even gots himself one o' dem tuppeeware thingies to hold ya'lls beer"


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

So here are the results.




So the digital timer I installed didn't work for some reason so I had to rely on the clock on my desk

From 55 to 35 in less than 60 Sec.
4 mins to drop to 30.
2 additional minutes to drop to 29.
Ambient Temp was 20.4C


----------



## DireLeon2010

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181015&nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL052412&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL052412-_-EMC-052412-Index-_-WaterCooling-_-35181015-L0I

$49.99 w/MIR.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> So here are the results.
> 
> ...
> 
> So the digital timer I installed didn't work for some reason so I had to rely on the clock on my desk
> From 55 to 35 in less than 60 Sec.
> 4 mins to drop to 30.
> 2 additional minutes to drop to 29.
> Ambient Temp was 20.4C


That's not a bad result for just adding another rad into the loop. I was wondering because open loop pumps seem to be rated depending on how much water is in the system (I guess the size of the res), but the Corsair pump seems to be handling it fine.

How did you get all the air out?


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> That's not a bad result for just adding another rad into the loop. I was wondering because open loop pumps seem to be rated depending on how much water is in the system (I guess the size of the res), but the Corsair pump seems to be handling it fine.
> How did you get all the air out?


Hehehe....That was a little tricky and I got yelled at for using one of my wife's tupperware bowls.









Basically connected all the lines except the line running from one res to the intake of the pump. Then connected a spare piece of hose to that port on the radiator that the pump intake would be connected to. Filled the bowl (after making sure it was clean) with the coolant mix. placed the intake tube in the bowl and using one of the barbs from the H50 pump used that to syphon (so that my lips weren't all over the tube) until I got the fluid into the pump and starting to go to the first res and then turned on the power supply (had a spare hooked up, this was all done setup on a board with a towel under) and quickly placed the "exhaust" tube into the bowl. Let it run for a while and then carefully tilted the rads and the pump to get as much air out as possible. After a while of getting out almost all of the air, I wiped down the bottom part of the rad with alcohol and while holding it with one hand suspended over the bowl carefully sliced the spare tube that was connected to the barb on the rad that the pump intake hose needed to attach to. Submerged the barb (which by now is exhausting the coolant back into the bowl directly instead of going through the spare tube attached) to just under the water level and carefully without getting my fingers into the water moved the "intake" hose onto the barb until it was seated enough for me to take it out of the water and not have air sucked into the hose. Pulled it out of the water, fully seated the hose and that's that. There''s still a little air in the rads but not as much as how it comes stock from Corsair.

Edit - Just a guess since I'm not an expert at fluid dynamics but I'm thinking that there's a reason they still leave some air in the rads with a closed loop setup. Just hazarding a guess I would think that since air compresses/expands easier than a fluid such as water that it probably puts less strain on the pump as it causes suction without a reservoir to act as a "buffer". I'm also sure I contaminated the liquid a tiny amount but probably not enough to worry about for a years worth of running it. On top of that I'm only keeping the setup as is until I work out a custom reservoir to use with it. If anyone has any ideas let me know. I'd like to make it out of aluminum etc. as it would help radiate the heat but with two rads on it I don't think that's really going to help much. Extra water in the system would definately help more than that.

Another note - The aluminum CPU block that comes with the H40 is really terrible. It's even worse using it stock than a medium level air cooler heatsink with heatpipes like the Hyper TX-2 that I tested before using it (which is about middle of the pack according to the reviews).


----------



## Mergatroid

Maybe get a glass cutting kit and use an empty JD bottle.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Maybe get a glass cutting kit and use an empty JD bottle.


Hehehe...good idea..just not enough room in the case. I was really pushing it with the bud light can/bottle. I'm trying to think of something that might fit into the space where the bottom drive trays are. I only really need 1 or two, not 5 since I have the SSD mounted on the tray that is behind the front 3.0 USB sockets mounted in a 5 1/4" bay.


----------



## Krusher33

I pushed my H60 to the limit last night and saw my CPU throttle.







Just can't seem to reach 4 ghz.


----------



## bowness437

It's getting way to hot these days. Idling at 43C with AMD Phenom II X4 965 Be C3 125W revision. It's normally at 37C idle. Need to get an AC in my room.
Have the H50 in a pull and push config as that's what's more optimal in my enviroment.


----------



## Krusher33

When is the last time you pulled the fan off to check for dust in the fins on the radiator?


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I pushed my H60 to the limit last night and saw my CPU throttle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just can't seem to reach 4 ghz.


Sounds like you need MOAR FANS!!!


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> Sounds like you need MOAR FANS!!!


GT 2150's aren't enough?!


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> GT 2150's aren't enough?!


if in doubt, MOAR FANS!


----------



## Solders18

On a more serious note, with my H100, i don't have enough room between the Radiator and ram sticks to fit fans in there to make it push/pull. is there any kind of adapter out there that would make it work?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> GT 2150's aren't enough?!


Switch to Intake if it isn't already, otherwise you just have to get lower ambient temps.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> On a more serious note, with my H100, i don't have enough room between the Radiator and ram sticks to fit fans in there to make it push/pull. is there any kind of adapter out there that would make it work?


You could pull out the heatsinks as RAM doesn't get very hot even without heatsinks. You could alternatively get the half-height Samsung RAM, they are actually shorter than the clips on the sides for each slot.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Switch to Intake if it isn't already, otherwise you just have to get lower ambient temps.
> You could pull out the heatsinks as RAM doesn't get very hot even without heatsinks. You could alternatively get the half-height Samsung RAM, they are actually shorter than the clips on the sides for each slot.


when i slide i a fan in there the best i can, it looks like it would either hit the clips themselves or just BARELY clear them. are there any other options?


----------



## Solders18

Is there anything like that out there that would shift over the fan?


----------



## Kokin

Try getting 20mm or 12mm thick fans? Just measure it and see if it will work. To be honest, you won't see more than a 1-2C difference with push/pull unless you're cooling more than your CPU, so it may not be worth your time and money to add more fans.

20mm-thick fans
12mm-thick fans


----------



## Ceadderman

You can get Yate Loon High Speed 120x20's from Performance-PCs' now.

2000 RPM(sleeve bearing) 69 CFM fans. .030A 32dB









Yate Loon D12SH-12C 120x20 High Speed Silents. The only place that sells em.









Yeah their sleeved bearing fans but being honest about it there isn't much call these days for ball bearing fans and they're easy to maintain as well. If you're not able to clear your RAM with Push/Pull 2x25mm I'm pretty sure you'll clear with 2x20mm Push/Pull. If you don't have one already I would recommend a Fan Controller to lower the sound coming from the fans. I have 3 of them and while they aren't bad I do like to dial back the fans to a more reasonable level on the cooler days.









~Ceadder


----------



## Solders18

Thanks for the input guys, its probably not worth the time or money to worry about it, it was more of an impulse thought to see if it could be done. its cooling pretty good as it sits right now with 2 Xigmatek XAF-F1255's in Pull. (the white LEDs give it a nice touch and glow) Thanks though!


----------



## Holy_COW

Ok some time (couple of years?) have passed since those all-in-one WC came out, what is your experience in the long run?

eg.
Has it lost water due to evaporation?
Can you hear more bubbles now?
How easy/common is for the pump to break?

Durability is my main concern with all-in-one WC, and that's why I haven't jumped to one of them (always used custom WC or air in my rigs)

But now I'm moving back to small ITX/mATX and an all-in-one WC will be a great option due to size/performance...
Any feedback?









Thanks!


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Holy_COW*
> 
> Ok some time (couple of years?) have passed since those all-in-one WC came out, what is your experience in the long run?
> eg.
> Has it lost water due to evaporation?
> Can you hear more bubbles now?
> How easy/common is for the pump to break?
> Durability is my main concern with all-in-one WC, and that's why I haven't jumped to one of them (always used custom WC or air in my rigs)
> But now I'm moving back to small ITX/mATX and an all-in-one WC will be a great option due to size/performance...
> Any feedback?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


I've used a H60 for a year now. 6 months in an HTPC because it wouldn't fit an air cooler and then I transferred it to my sig rig. It performed a bit better than the Hyper 212+ that was in it before. And then a little better when I added GT 2150's but it's so loud to me that it's turned down quite low and now it performs about the same as the stock fan again.

Water evaporation? I'm not sure how anyone can tell if it has evaporated? Besides, it's in a closed loop... so if it evaporated, it's still in water form and is trapped in the closed loop.

Can't hear any bubbles in mine.

Been a year and pump still works fine.

I also have a Kuhler 620. I actually much prefer the Kuhler over the H60 because of the tubing but that's just personal opinion. I'm not sure if one is better than the other though because the Kuhler is on my GPU.


----------



## NitrousX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Holy_COW*
> 
> Ok some time (couple of years?) have passed since those all-in-one WC came out, what is your experience in the long run?
> eg.
> Has it lost water due to evaporation?
> Can you hear more bubbles now?
> How easy/common is for the pump to break?
> Durability is my main concern with all-in-one WC, and that's why I haven't jumped to one of them (always used custom WC or air in my rigs)
> But now I'm moving back to small ITX/mATX and an all-in-one WC will be a great option due to size/performance...
> Any feedback?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


I've had my H50 running in my system for a little over two years (bought in December '09) and it's still running great to this day. I can't say I've heard any bubbles. The failure rate on these closed loop coolers is pretty low and the last I heard, Corsair offers to replace any damaged components in your system if the pump leaks fluid.


----------



## ahnon

Are the GT AP-15s still recommended as the best performance/noise ratio fan for an H70?

I'm really picky when it comes to noise. I gave an AP-15 a try last night and at its rated 28dB, it gave off a bit of a high pitched whine that was driving me nuts. The performance was great though. It was performing at around 2-3 degrees celsius better than the Cougar Vortex in the same single fan config.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Holy_COW*
> 
> Ok some time (couple of years?) have passed since those all-in-one WC came out, what is your experience in the long run?
> 
> eg.
> Has it lost water due to evaporation?
> Can you hear more bubbles now?
> How easy/common is for the pump to break?
> 
> Durability is my main concern with all-in-one WC, and that's why I haven't jumped to one of them (always used custom WC or air in my rigs)
> 
> But now I'm moving back to small ITX/mATX and an all-in-one WC will be a great option due to size/performance...
> Any feedback?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Well if you've had a custom loop why not just stick with custom loop and just go 1/4" ID tubing? It'll do the same thing you want and if you're worried about evaporation just go with a thicker brand of tubing like say PrimoChill LRT? Not sure they make it in 1/4" ID but it's worth looking into.

I had my H50 for about a year so I can't speak to evaporation but I can speak to the size of the Push/Pull w/Radiator and shroud. Took up quite a bit of room but still did a fantastic job keeping things cool.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahnon*
> 
> Are the GT AP-15s still recommended as the best performance/noise ratio fan for an H70?
> 
> I'm really picky when it comes to noise. I gave an AP-15 a try last night and at its rated 28dB, it gave off a bit of a high pitched whine that was driving me nuts. The performance was great though. It was performing at around 2-3 degrees celsius better than the Cougar Vortex in the same single fan config.


They are. But I have to say that a reasonable alternative if you have a fan controller is Yate Loon. It's a reasonable alternative for a much cheaper price(still after all this time) and with a fan controller they're almost non existent in dB. I've got mine at 3/4 and you can't hardly hear them. They're pulling through my 360 and temps with Mainboard to CPU are 43 on the CPU under full load on a 24c warm day. It's pretty humid out today too, due to it being overcast. I could crank em up if I were gaming but really no need to do so.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I've used a H60 for a year now. 6 months in an HTPC because it wouldn't fit an air cooler and then I transferred it to my sig rig. It performed a bit better than the Hyper 212+ that was in it before. And then a little better when I added GT 2150's but it's so loud to me that it's turned down quite low and now it performs about the same as the stock fan again.
> Water evaporation? I'm not sure how anyone can tell if it has evaporated? Besides, it's in a closed loop... so if it evaporated, it's still in water form and is trapped in the closed loop.
> Can't hear any bubbles in mine.
> Been a year and pump still works fine.
> I also have a Kuhler 620. I actually much prefer the Kuhler over the H60 because of the tubing but that's just personal opinion. I'm not sure if one is better than the other though because the Kuhler is on my GPU.


Agree, these closed loop maintenance-free coolers are great imo. Thinking about adding a couple more for my video cards.

Anyone seen this?

http://www.tomshardware.com/news/cooler-gpu,15534.html

Thinking about purchasing a couple of them, but my local parts supplier says retail is going to be over $150 each. Yikes! I think Corsair is missing out on a market opportunity here. All they have to do is create a bracket for their coolers to fit on video cards. If they did, I'd purchase two and two H60s.

@Ceadderman

"Well if you've had a custom loop why not just stick with custom loop"

Lol, two words: "maintenance free" (for me anyway).


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> @Ceadderman
> 
> "Well if you've had a custom loop why not just stick with custom loop"
> 
> Lol, two words: "maintenance free" (for me anyway).


Yeah was only suggesting that if he still has the block and a serviceable pump that it costs about the same to put together a small bore custom loop. Assuming that he has most of what's required anyway.









Maintenance free really isn't that maintenance free. I mean if you think about it you still have to clean the dust off/out of the Radiator anyway. That's the time to dismantle and flush a custom loop.









An I loved my H50 plan to get a used one to put on this Athlon II Folder I'm trying to set up.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

I can clean my computer in about 15 minutes, no dismantling a custom loop required. Actually, since all my intake fans have filters, I'm really not finding any dust in my rad and hardly any on the fans. A quick wipe with a swiffer, and then a blow out with the compressor and I'm pretty much done. Gotta love newer cases with filters.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah was only suggesting that if he still has the block and a serviceable pump that it costs about the same to put together a small bore custom loop. Assuming that he has most of what's required anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maintenance free really isn't that maintenance free. I mean if you think about it you still have to clean the dust off/out of the Radiator anyway. That's the time to dismantle and flush a custom loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An I loved my H50 plan to get a used one to put on this Athlon II Folder I'm trying to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You're getting an Athlon II to fold on but selling your 965... What?


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

I had my H50 for 2 years without a leak or even one bit of problem at all. And then....the warranty expired...and the little Sam Kinison on my shoulder could be silence no longer.



I broke the H50 pump circuit board when I dropped it and so I picked up an H40, removed the aluminum heatsink, replaced that with the copper one from the H50 (required cutting 2 circles on the top of the padded tape that covers the fins but no other mods) and put both rads in a loop with it (I'll add a res when I figure out how I want to do it).

Edit - Excuse the mess. I still need to tighten up the interior (hide cables etc.).


----------



## NitrousX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahnon*
> 
> Are the GT AP-15s still recommended as the best performance/noise ratio fan for an H70?
> I'm really picky when it comes to noise. I gave an AP-15 a try last night and at its rated 28dB, it gave off a bit of a high pitched whine that was driving me nuts. The performance was great though. It was performing at around 2-3 degrees celsius better than the Cougar Vortex in the same single fan config.


The AP-15's aren't the quietest fans around but they are among one of the best in terms of static pressure. In other words, they move a ton of air through rads and such.

Performance > noise level


----------



## OverClocker55

Can you add the H40,H60,H80 and H100 to the club?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Can you add the H40,H60,H80 and H100 to the club?


Yes but we can't change the title anymore.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Can you add the H40,H60,H80 and H100 to the club?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes but we can't change the title anymore.
Click to expand...

Better?


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Can you add the H40,H60,H80 and H100 to the club?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes but we can't change the title anymore.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Better?
Click to expand...

Yeah!







Well count me in! I own the H60


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Better?


Finally! Geez that only took a couple of years...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Better?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally! Geez that only took a couple of years...
Click to expand...

All you had to do was PM me after I became a mod, I would've taken care of it.

Is there anybody that would like to take control of this club? If so, please PM me (don't post here). I'll get in touch with our current club owner and see if he'd be willing to let somebody else take it up since he's pretty inactive himself.


----------



## Droogie

Add me? H100 with 4 Swiftech Helix 120's in p/p.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> All you had to do was PM me after I became a mod, I would've taken care of it.


Don't know why the last mod did not do it...
Quote:


> Is there anybody that would like to take control of this club? If so, please PM me (don't post here). I'll get in touch with our current club owner and see if he'd be willing to let somebody else take it up since he's pretty inactive himself.


deja vu


----------



## OverClocker55

I'm active almost every 30mins on OCN. I could take over


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> I'm active almost every 30mins on OCN. I could take over










Pio said via PM.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> I'm active almost every 30mins on OCN. I could take over
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pio said via PM.
Click to expand...

Ok


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

If you guys have any ideas for making a custom res I'm all ears.


----------



## Killhouse

Hey guys,

Glad to see the club prospering in my absence. I'm no longer active around here so I will pass over the reigns to whoever Pio deems worthy!

You'll see me around the modding forums no doubt









20,000 posts and 3 million views is a pretty good run, hopefully the next leader can make it to 5 million!

Regards,
~Killhouse


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killhouse*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Glad to see the club prospering in my absence. I'm no longer active around here so I will pass over the reigns to whoever Pio deems worthy!
> 
> You'll see me around the modding forums no doubt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 20,000 posts and 3 million views is a pretty good run, hopefully the next leader can make it to 5 million!
> 
> Regards,
> ~Killhouse


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> If you guys have any ideas for making a custom res I'm all ears.


Me too. In need of one for cheap.


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Me too. In need of one for cheap.


You could use an empty plastic soda bottle if you wanted to be real cheap about it.


----------



## Krusher33

That's the 3rd time that it has been considered to me and I'm really starting to do it. The only thing though... how do you get the barbs on a soda bottle?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> That's the 3rd time that it has been considered to me and I'm really starting to do it. The only thing though... how do you get the barbs on a soda bottle?


Why not just spend the $20 and get a Swifttec MicroRes?









Why do you NEED a res on an H60 though?


----------



## Krusher33

I have this chip you see... it's all glittery gold like... at least in my eyes. And it's like... can get to 4.0 ghz you see... but that's just my hopes. And heat... well you know heat is an enemy. Heat is keeping me from getting to that wonderful goal the glittered chip can get to.

At 3.7 I passed Prime for nearly 20 hours, temps were low enough back then. Recently tried getting 3.9 but saw my temps go above 62.







Bubba was witness to that.









But yeah... I'll go shopping. If I got any money left.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I have this chip you see... it's all glittery gold like... at least in my eyes. And it's like... can get to 4.0 ghz you see... but that's just my hopes. And heat... well you know heat is an enemy. Heat is keeping me from getting to that wonderful goal the glittered chip can get to.
> 
> At 3.7 I passed Prime for nearly 20 hours, temps were low enough back then. Recently tried getting 3.9 but saw my temps go above 62.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bubba was witness to that.


Adding a res isn't going to help temps at all though......

If you want lower temps you need more rad space, a better pump, and a better block.


----------



## Krusher33

Yeah. But add res for now... drop by 2-4 degrees. Buy bigger rad later, drop by another couple of degrees.

But I don't know when I'll ever get a new block or pump. Those things are beyond my affordability.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Why not just spend the $20 and get a Swifttec MicroRes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Why do you NEED a res on an H60 though*?


More coolant = more dissapated heat = better cooling.

And that little Sam Kinison on the shoulder is screaming at you for something to Mod and a warranty to void.


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> More coolant = more dissapated heat = better cooling.
> And that little Sam Kinison on the shoulder is screaming at you for something to Mod and a warranty to void.


I suppose, but it'd have to be a pretty large res to make a noticable difference.

If you want to void the warranty and get better temps lapping the CPU and h whatever would yield better temps than adding a res.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Yeah. But add res for now... drop by 2-4 degrees. Buy bigger rad later, drop by another couple of degrees.
> 
> But I don't know when I'll ever get a new block or pump. Those things are beyond my affordability.


Adding more water to it really isn't going to help much, because the radiator can only expell so much heat. The water WILL eventually heat up to the same temperature regardless. Say it takes you 6.0 minutes to reach maximum Prime temp now, by adding a res to it...you might get 6.5 minutes till maximum temperature. The temperature won't change by just adding more water to it though.

How cheap is cheap for you? I'm sure we can find you a good 240mm rad and a cheap res, which would essentially bring you up to H100 level performance (just like what I did with my H50).


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anubis1127*
> 
> I suppose, but it'd have to be a pretty large res to make a noticable difference.
> If you want to void the warranty and get better temps lapping the CPU and h whatever would yield better temps than adding a res.


He he he....already did. I started with an out of warranty H50....slipped out of my fingers and WHAM!! hit the countertop knocking one of the chips off of the control board, not to be defeated picked up an H40 adding the lapped copper base and rad from the H50, and now thinking of a res to build to add as well.


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> He he he....already did. I started with an out of warranty H50....slipped out of my fingers and WHAM!! hit the countertop knocking one of the chips off of the control board, not to be defeated picked up an H40 adding the lapped copper base and rad from the H50, and now thinking of a res to build to add as well.


Ah, lol, gotcha!


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anubis1127*
> 
> Ah, lol, gotcha!


Sam just won't stay quiet darnit


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Adding more water to it really isn't going to help much, because the radiator can only expell so much heat. The water WILL eventually heat up to the same temperature regardless. Say it takes you 6.0 minutes to reach maximum Prime temp now, by adding a res to it...you might get 6.5 minutes till maximum temperature. The temperature won't change by just adding more water to it though.
> How cheap is cheap for you? I'm sure we can find you a good 240mm rad and a cheap res, which would essentially bring you up to H100 level performance (just like what I did with my H50).


A guy offered an EK multi 150 advanced for $30 and I thought that was expensive.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Adding more water to it really isn't going to help much, because the radiator can only expell so much heat. The water WILL eventually heat up to the same temperature regardless. Say it takes you 6.0 minutes to reach maximum Prime temp now, by adding a res to it...you might get 6.5 minutes till maximum temperature. The temperature won't change by just adding more water to it though.
> How cheap is cheap for you? I'm sure we can find you a good 240mm rad and a cheap res, which would essentially bring you up to H100 level performance (just like what I did with my H50).


Actually that's backwards (no offense). The more water there is the higher the systems ability to remove heat from the CPU block and the overall temperatures of the water as a whole in the system will be lower, which means the radiator will be able to remove the "heat" from the water more effectively.


----------



## PCEnthusiast85

add me in with the Diablo Build











i said goodbye to my warranties and hello to a full single loop system. h100 on cpu and dual h70s (1 for each gpu) 1 h70 rad and 1 h100 rad.

gpu @ 950/2150
CPU (amd 1090T) @ 4.1ghz

48*c under full load after several hours.....im happy


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I have this chip you see... it's all glittery gold like... at least in my eyes. And it's like... can get to 4.0 ghz you see... but that's just my hopes. And heat... well you know heat is an enemy. Heat is keeping me from getting to that wonderful goal the glittered chip can get to.
> At 3.7 I passed Prime for nearly 20 hours, temps were low enough back then. Recently tried getting 3.9 but saw my temps go above 62.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bubba was witness to that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah... I'll go shopping. If I got any money left.


How much voltage are you running through it? i ran my 1055t on an H50 and H70 at 4.0 GHz and topped out at about 58


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> How much voltage are you running through it? i ran my 1055t on an H50 and H70 at 4.0 GHz and topped out at about 58


Hmmm...







Is it push/pull or something? Shrouds? Intake/exhaust?

Mine's 1.48v @ 3.86 and it climbs over 62 degrees. Someone said it might be my high reference clock and so I switched to the max multi and lower reference clock and still had the same results.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Hmmm...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it push/pull or something? Shrouds? Intake/exhaust?
> Mine's 1.48v @ 3.86 and it climbs over 62 degrees. Someone said it might be my high reference clock and so I switched to the max multi and lower reference clock and still had the same results.


i did run both in push/pull but my room was always a bit on the warmer side too at around 75-77. I ran 1.48v i think with 287 x 14


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> i did run both in push/pull but my room was always a bit on the warmer side too at around 75-77. I ran 1.48v i think with 287 x 14


What fans?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I can clean my computer in about 15 minutes, no dismantling a custom loop required. Actually, since all my intake fans have filters, I'm really not finding any dust in my rad and hardly any on the fans. A quick wipe with a swiffer, and then a blow out with the compressor and I'm pretty much done. Gotta love newer cases with filters.


It doesn't even take me 15 minutes to clean my system. I've got my fans mounted between the case and the Radiator in Pull configuration. Which means I don't _need_ a filter on the radiator, tho I plan to get one. I do most of my maintenance when the system is in off mode since it's a 24/7 Folder. Have to clear the memory you know.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah was only suggesting that if he still has the block and a serviceable pump that it costs about the same to put together a small bore custom loop. Assuming that he has most of what's required anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maintenance free really isn't that maintenance free. I mean if you think about it you still have to clean the dust off/out of the Radiator anyway. That's the time to dismantle and flush a custom loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An I loved my H50 plan to get a used one to put on this Athlon II Folder I'm trying to set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're getting an Athlon II to fold on but selling your 965... What?
Click to expand...

Yes. But the Athlon II works on AM2 and is for donation purposes for [email protected] or Chimpin when ever the system is finally finished.








Quote:


> Spoiler: @Bubba Hotepp
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> I had my H50 for 2 years without a leak or even one bit of problem at all. And then....the warranty expired...and the little Sam Kinison on my shoulder could be silence no longer.
> 
> I broke the H50 pump circuit board when I dropped it and so I picked up an H40, removed the aluminum heatsink, replaced that with the copper one from the H50 (required cutting 2 circles on the top of the padded tape that covers the fins but no other mods) and put both rads in a loop with it (I'll add a res when I figure out how I want to do it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit - Excuse the mess. I still need to tighten up the interior (hide cables etc.).
Click to expand...

Is all good, but could you get some closer shots of your pump and Rads so we can see what you did?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Can you add the H40,H60,H80 and H100 to the club?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes but we can't change the title anymore.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Better?
Click to expand...

Much. Thanks Pio.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I have this chip you see... it's all glittery gold like... at least in my eyes. And it's like... can get to 4.0 ghz you see... but that's just my hopes. And heat... well you know heat is an enemy. Heat is keeping me from getting to that wonderful goal the glittered chip can get to.
> 
> At 3.7 I passed Prime for nearly 20 hours, temps were low enough back then. Recently tried getting 3.9 but saw my temps go above 62.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bubba was witness to that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding a res isn't going to help temps at all though......
> 
> If you want lower temps you need more rad space, a better pump, and a better block.
Click to expand...

This. More coolant/liquid/water would be smashing too, but more Real Estate in the Radiator or another Radiator to increase the cooling capacity is recommended.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Adding more water to it really isn't going to help much, because the radiator can only expell so much heat. The water WILL eventually heat up to the same temperature regardless. Say it takes you 6.0 minutes to reach maximum Prime temp now, by adding a res to it...you might get 6.5 minutes till maximum temperature. The temperature won't change by just adding more water to it though.
> How cheap is cheap for you? I'm sure we can find you a good 240mm rad and a cheap res, which would essentially bring you up to H100 level performance (just like what I did with my H50).
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that's backwards (no offense). The more water there is the higher the systems ability to remove heat from the CPU block and the overall temperatures of the water as a whole in the system will be lower, which means the radiator will be able to remove the "heat" from the water more effectively.
Click to expand...

Ummm no I believe that it's been shown that the liquid temp will get to a point where you cannot cool below it without having more cooling surface. I forget who did this so you'll probably dismiss me out of hand again, but I believe it was Martin who came to this conclusion based on his all his reviewing and testing. You're right that the more liquid the higher the ability to cool, but the liquid should eventually reach it's peak for the amount of heat molecules it can expend when it comes into contact with the Cooling surface. Then you get into component performance. i.e. Radiator, Fan, Block and Pump. Pumps themselves generate heat. It's minimal and otherwise a non factor in most instances but that heat keeps the coolant at a specific temp unless you can minimize with a heatsink or a fan blowing over it. If the Pump block is restrictive that will affect the speed of flow and the ability for the coolant to rid itself of heat. If the fans aren't capable of expelling their own generated heat(electrically generated) it won't matter how much liquid is available unless your source is alternatively cooled. Then you have the Radiator. I'm still learning on this bit but FPI v CFM of the fan can have an effect on the ability to cool.

Anyway, I don't wish to start a whole technical conversation that gets moderated again. You're correct but to a point.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCEnthusiast85*
> 
> add me in with the Diablo Build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i said goodbye to my warranties and hello to a full single loop system. h100 on cpu and dual h70s (1 for each gpu) 1 h70 rad and 1 h100 rad.
> 
> gpu @ 950/2150
> CPU (amd 1090T) @ 4.1ghz
> 
> 48*c under full load after several hours.....im happy


Very cool.










~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

I don't have a filter on my rad either. My rad is exhaust. The filters are on my intake fans, and came with the case. I'd love to see you drain, clean and refill your open loop and clean your case in the same time as it takes me to wipe the dust off and blow the remainder out in 15 minutes on mine.

We were talking about maintenance free water coolers right? How you figure cleaning your loop takes the same time as not doing anything to a closed loop is hard to fathom.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> What fans?


Cooler master Sickleflow's. had a total of 5 of those in that case


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I don't have a filter on my rad either. My rad is exhaust. The filters are on my intake fans, and came with the case. I'd love to see you drain, clean and refill your open loop and clean your case in the same time as it takes me to wipe the dust off and blow the remainder out in 15 minutes on mine.
> 
> We were talking about maintenance free water coolers right? How you figure cleaning your loop takes the same time as not doing anything to a closed loop is hard to fathom.


I can do it in less time trust me.

I use a brush on the 360 to knock off any dust. I have a drain at the very bottom of my loop. Takes maybe <1 minute to drain. Takes 3 minutes to fill through the top of my 932 in the stock fill opening. Having a filter in front of my 200mm I just knock the dust off that with a brush and the bottom filter only filters for the PSU which is only active intake when the system is at peak power.

So yeah I can clean flush and fill and dust my loop in less than 15 minutes. Heck if I have to remove my Radiator for any reason I can do it quick and efficiently since it's held in place with Koolance Radiator hardware. I love these little badboys. So much better than a std screw.









~Ceadder


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Koolance Radiator hardware


What's that?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Koolance Radiator hardware
> 
> 
> 
> What's that?
Click to expand...

They are these...



They come in M4 thread on the Radiator side. The spindle nuts are metal as well. Two lengths(25mm & 38mm) only however. They're freakin awesome.









~Ceadder


----------



## Krusher33

Oooh, aaaah.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I would like to remind you guys that I am still looking for somebody to take over this club. Please PM me if you are interested.


----------



## _REAPER_

I would take it over but I am deployed and dont get to log in as much as I would like


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> I would like to remind you guys that I am still looking for somebody to take over this club. Please PM me if you are interested.


dude, what happen to Killhouse? Now what happen to you? I am very curious..


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> dude, what happen to Killhouse? Now what happen to you? I am very curious..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killhouse*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Glad to see the club prospering in my absence. I'm no longer active around here so I will pass over the reigns to whoever Pio deems worthy!
> You'll see me around the modding forums no doubt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 20,000 posts and 3 million views is a pretty good run, hopefully the next leader can make it to 5 million!
> Regards,
> ~Killhouse


----------



## simonfredette

You can add me , I dont use the H100 anymore but ill always have a soft spot for it , it started my liquid cooling obsession and I still have it set aside for when I have enough parts to build my wife a PC, I put the pics of my old rig , it was an nzxt gaurdian that I cut out the top so I could fit the 2 fans , it worked great and I OC'd a i7 960 from a 3.2 to a 3.8 with this setup


----------



## kizwan

Hi,

I just setup new computer with Corsair H100 (see my sig). Sorry for poor pictures. I take the photo using my camera phone. I don't have better camera.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Hi,
> I just setup new computer with Corsair H100 (see my sig). Sorry for poor pictures. I take the photo using my camera phone. I don't have better camera.


nice rig , you can do better with the cable management with that case though its a good setup !


----------



## OverClocker55




----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah I kinda wish I'd held on to my H50. Only a little bit though, cause it paved the way for my loop. Had I not sold it I'd probably have spent the money on other things first.









~Ceadder


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah I kinda wish I'd held on to my H50. Only a little bit though, cause it paved the way for my loop. Had I not sold it I'd probably have spent the money on other things first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I never gave watercooling a slight thought till I won the H60. Now I wanna. Really, really wanna water my rig.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> nice rig , you can do better with the cable management with that case though its a good setup !


Thanks! It's hot over here, 32++ Celsius. H100 does help a lot. Next, liquid cooling for graphic card.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*


REP +


----------



## aas88keyz

Question: I have two H80's. One is installed and working ok and the other's hoses have been damaged and tend to leak. I am considering a push/pull H100 setup but am wondering if I can use the dmg'd H80 fans (fans are good condition) and whether the water block controller can accept four fan connections or whether I have to use one of the motherboard fan controllers.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Question: I have two H80's. One is installed and working ok and the other's hoses have been damaged and tend to leak. I am considering a push/pull H100 setup but am wondering if I can use the dmg'd H80 fans (fans are good condition) and whether the water block controller can accept four fan connections or whether I have to use one of the motherboard fan controllers.


yes you can use the fans from the H80 and yes the H100 and control 4 fans


----------



## un1b4ll

What do you guys think about an H80 in an FT03b cooling a 3930k? Is that going to be a sufficient cooling solution? I probably won't try for over 4.2/3ghz, so no crazy overclocking, I just want to make sure it's enough. I'd REALLY like to use the H100, but I don't think there's room for a 240mm rad in that case


----------



## simonfredette

Yeah I only lasted about a month with my H100 , loved it but then I was ready to go water cooling all the way , I bought new GPU's just because the one I had didnt have a full cover block for it , about 1000$ extra on my original rig all because of this little H100


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Question: I have two H80's. One is installed and working ok and the other's hoses have been damaged and tend to leak. I am considering a push/pull H100 setup but am wondering if I can use the dmg'd H80 fans (fans are good condition) and whether the water block controller can accept four fan connections or whether I have to use one of the motherboard fan controllers.
> 
> 
> 
> yes you can use the fans from the H80 and yes the H100 and control 4 fans
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Is all good, but could you get some closer shots of your pump and Rads so we can see what you did?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much. Thanks Pio.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This. More coolant/liquid/water would be smashing too, but more Real Estate in the Radiator or another Radiator to increase the cooling capacity is recommended.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ummm no I believe that it's been shown that the liquid temp will get to a point where you cannot cool below it without having more cooling surface. I forget who did this so you'll probably dismiss me out of hand again, but I believe it was Martin who came to this conclusion based on his all his reviewing and testing. You're right that the more liquid the higher the ability to cool, but the liquid should eventually reach it's peak for the amount of heat molecules it can expend when it comes into contact with the Cooling surface. Then you get into component performance. i.e. Radiator, Fan, Block and Pump. Pumps themselves generate heat. It's minimal and otherwise a non factor in most instances but that heat keeps the coolant at a specific temp unless you can minimize with a heatsink or a fan blowing over it. If the Pump block is restrictive that will affect the speed of flow and the ability for the coolant to rid itself of heat. If the fans aren't capable of expelling their own generated heat(electrically generated) it won't matter how much liquid is available unless your source is alternatively cooled. Then you have the Radiator. I'm still learning on this bit but FPI v CFM of the fan can have an effect on the ability to cool.
> Anyway, I don't wish to start a whole technical conversation that gets moderated again. You're correct but to a point.
> Very cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'll take some more pictures later but basically all I did was take the copper block from the H50 which then required cutting two circular areas on the foamish padding covering the copper fins to match the aluminum block from the H40 (that black pad that covers the fins) on the top at both ends, and with clear tubing picked up from the local hardware store I have it running from the pump out to the radiator at the top then from there down to the radiator at the bottom and then back up to the pump.

This is just off the top of my head and I'm not an expert at thermo dynamics at all so I could be way off base here. But, my thinking is that by adding a res it would not only provide more liquid which would take longer to reach that "peak amount' and on top of that as it sits in the res it will also dissipate a certain amount of heat (not a whole lot mind you) and of course the slightly cooler liquid settles to the bottom where it is then taken back into the loop. But that's just pure speculation. I'll definately post results when I add a res to see if I'm way off base or not. My plan is to test it to see if it works better with the res and in which position (i.e. radiators together on one side of the loop or with the res before or after, or with the res in between the radiators).

Edit - I'm also using walmart distilled water with a coolant additive for corrosion and anti-microbial.


----------



## nerdybeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *un1b4ll*
> 
> What do you guys think about an H80 in an FT03b cooling a 3930k? Is that going to be a sufficient cooling solution? I probably won't try for over 4.2/3ghz, so no crazy overclocking, I just want to make sure it's enough. I'd REALLY like to use the H100, but I don't think there's room for a 240mm rad in that case


The H80 will absolutely be enough cooling for that setup. I use the H70 on my i7-970 (which runs pretty warm) and it keeps my temps under control easily. Even around 4.4GHz on 1.35vcore (my highest OC) it kept it under 75C on full load. There is no chance of fitting the H100 in the FT03b without modding =/


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nerdybeat*
> 
> The H80 will absolutely be enough cooling for that setup. I use the H70 on my i7-970 (which runs pretty warm) and it keeps my temps under control easily. Even around 4.4GHz on 1.35vcore (my highest OC) it kept it under 75C on full load. There is no chance of fitting the H100 in the FT03b without modding =/


Thats a decent OC for a 970, with an H100 I was only able to get my 960 to about 3.8 (load temps around 75-80) even with my custom loop with a RX360 I can only get it stable around 4.3


----------



## natchal

when you say to use a shroud,what is that exactly?I have an h50 and am going to get an h100 at the end of the month and will probably need a shroud.Also what is better for the h50,the fan intaking air or the fan exhausting air?


----------



## Sophath

What are some good matx case that would be able to fit the h100? I know fractal design has the define mini and the arc mini. Other than those what else can i look at?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natchal*
> 
> when you say to use a shroud,what is that exactly?I have an h50 and am going to get an h100 at the end of the month and will probably need a shroud.Also what is better for the h50,the fan intaking air or the fan exhausting air?





Spoiler: This is a shroud...
























Basically it puts enough space behind the hub to focus more airflow on the cooling surface of the Radiator. You can expect anywhere from a 3-5c (per every 120mm surface area) drop in temps using one.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tohru Rokuno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natchal*
> 
> when you say to use a shroud,what is that exactly?I have an h50 and am going to get an h100 at the end of the month and will probably need a shroud.Also what is better for the h50,the fan intaking air or the fan exhausting air?


A shroud is a spacer between the fan and the radiator. It helps eliminate the 'dead spot' in the middle from the fan hub.

On my H70, I made shrouds out of old, broken 120mm fans. Cut off the motor and supports, and you're golden.

I have dual shrouds right now (push-pull), but this picture shows the H70 with a shroud on the intake side.
Pardon the dust.


Spoiler: Warning: Un-resized Picture!


----------



## Nastrodamous

Hey guys quick question here, I am going to set up push pull on my H100, Would it be better to use the same set of fans( i currently have corsair sp120s as exhaust), or can I use 2 different fans?

thanks.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nastrodamous*
> 
> Hey guys quick question here, I am going to set up push pull on my H100, Would it be better to use the same set of fans( i currently have corsair sp120s as exhaust), or can I use 2 different fans?
> thanks.


you are going to want to use the same fans that are pushing/pulling each other so they are doing the same amount of work. but between the two sets may be different


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nastrodamous*
> 
> Hey guys quick question here, I am going to set up push pull on my H100, Would it be better to use the same set of fans( i currently have corsair sp120s as exhaust), or can I use 2 different fans?
> thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> you are going to want to use the same fans that are pushing/pulling each other so they are doing the same amount of work. but between the two sets may be different
Click to expand...

This. Even a perfectly match pair of fans can have a slight gap in RPM. Or more commonly known as +/- 10% of Manufacturer Rating. Best way around this is to run the pair on separate headers and check the RPM of them in BIOS or with CPU-Z, PC Probe II or some other commonly used performance app. The faster of the two will be your Push and the Slower your Pull.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This. Even a perfectly match pair of fans can have a slight gap in RPM. Or more commonly known as +/- 10% of Manufacturer Rating. Best way around this is to run the pair on separate headers and check the RPM of them in BIOS or with CPU-Z, PC Probe II or some other commonly used performance app. The faster of the two will be your Push and the Slower your Pull.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Or just use a 2 into 1 fan cable,both fans get the same voltage,therefore run at the same speed.

Fans cannot run at exactly a set RPM,hence the +/-. a few 10's of RPM will not make any difference to airflow.
However,mismatched blade design and RPM is a different story....


----------



## Nastrodamous

Thanks alot guys when ahead and ordered another set.


----------



## simonfredette

Yeah I ran my H100 in push pull and didnt have six identical fans , as long as your corresponding fans are the same , you could have 2 pairs of fans of different kinds ex. a stock H100 fan pulling into another stock H100 fan and next to it a pair of gentle typhoons , just dont have a a gentle typhoon pulling with a stock fan on the other side , one is going to restrict the other and you might get wierd noises from one fan trying to make the other one turn faster or run more air through it than it can take.


----------



## greg1184

Those of you who have a H100 and a 3770k, how much are you overclocking your processor and what temps are you getting. I am torn between going with the H100 or going with a full fledged watercooling kit.


----------



## jbobb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nastrodamous*
> 
> Hey guys quick question here, I am going to set up push pull on my H100, Would it be better to use the same set of fans( i currently have corsair sp120s as exhaust), or can I use 2 different fans?
> thanks.


Are you using the SP120 quiet or high performance? I'm looking at swapping out my H80 stock fans to something that will cool just as good or better and be quieter. Just wondering if the SP120 quiet ones would be enough in push/pull. Maybe the high performance ones would be quiter anyways and have more flow?


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nastrodamous*
> 
> Thanks alot guys when ahead and ordered another set.


Good deal. The general rule of thumb should be as long as the fans are close in specs ( +/- 10% or so) then you should have no worries. I really don't recommend matching for example a 2600RPM with 150CFM to a 2000RPM with 70CFM etc.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbobb*
> 
> Are you using the SP120 quiet or high performance? I'm looking at swapping out my H80 stock fans to something that will cool just as good or better and be quieter. Just wondering if the SP120 quiet ones would be enough in push/pull. Maybe the high performance ones would be quiter anyways and have more flow?


I have the HP ones and they really work great with my H80. If you are worried about noise then about 1800 rpms is the sweet spot in my rig.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Yeah I ran my H100 in push pull and didnt have six identical fans , as long as your corresponding fans are the same , you could have 2 pairs of fans of different kinds ex. a stock H100 fan pulling into another stock H100 fan and next to it a pair of gentle typhoons , just dont have a a gentle typhoon pulling with a stock fan on the other side , one is going to restrict the other and you might get wierd noises from one fan trying to make the other one turn faster or run more air through it than it can take.


I used an H100 with mismatched fans for three or four months and it worked fine. I was using the stock H100 fans as push and a set of Scythe Slip Stream 1900 RPM 110 cfm fans as pull fans. Worked great and there were no issues and no excessive noise.

I have an H50 in the computer beside me right now that uses the stock H50 fan as a push fan, and a 1300 RPM Scythe Slipstream fan as a pull fan. Works fine. It's quiet. No issues.

Using the more powerful fan as push and the other as pull will work fine if the fans are in the same ballpark. Of course, using the H100 you can also match sets. Either way should work fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbobb*
> 
> Are you using the SP120 quiet or high performance? I'm looking at swapping out my H80 stock fans to something that will cool just as good or better and be quieter. Just wondering if the SP120 quiet ones would be enough in push/pull. Maybe the high performance ones would be quiter anyways and have more flow?


The H80 fans are actually pretty nice fans. If you find fans that perform as well but are quieter then go for it. Look at the static pressure and the noise.

H80:

airflow: 46 - 92 CFM
static pressure: 1.6 - 7.7mm/H20
dBA: 22 - 39
So, at minimum RPM, you get 1.6mm/H20 pushing 46 cfm of air at 22.39dB of noise.

At maximum RPM, you get 7.7 mm/H20 pushing 92 cfm of air at 39dB of noise.

You just need to decide what's most important, performance (pressure and airflow) or noise. Some fans offer one or the other, and some come fairly close to both. Many people use Scythe Gentle Typhoons or Yate Loons because they have good performance per noise ratios but there are fans that perform better at the cost of more noise.

Here's a pretty good thread on the subject:

http://www.overclock.net/t/859483/round-6-fan-testing-working-thread


----------



## Tohru Rokuno

On a car forums I go on fairly often, one of the guys is upgrading his case fans to Aerocool Shark fans.

Aerocool's site says they push 82.6CFM, have a static pressure of 1.273 mm-H2O, and run at 26.5db.

Are these good fans for water cooling?


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tohru Rokuno*
> 
> On a car forums I go on fairly often, one of the guys is upgrading his case fans to Aerocool Shark fans.
> Aerocool's site says they push 82.6CFM, have a static pressure of 1.273 mm-H2O, and run at 26.5db.
> Are these good fans for water cooling?


should be thats pretty good static pressure , thats what people ignore , there are plenty of fans with more cfm than typhoons and even less noise but without proper static pressure its like having a big fan with no shroud to direct it.. Those sound pretty good , and they are 120mm ?


----------



## Nastrodamous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbobb*
> 
> Are you using the SP120 quiet or high performance? I'm looking at swapping out my H80 stock fans to something that will cool just as good or better and be quieter. Just wondering if the SP120 quiet ones would be enough in push/pull. Maybe the high performance ones would be quiter anyways and have more flow?


I am using the high performance ones with the step down voltage adapter, hooked up to a fan controller, and i really quite like them.


----------



## jbobb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nastrodamous*
> 
> I am using the high performance ones with the step down voltage adapter, hooked up to a fan controller, and i really quite like them.


I went ahead and ordered a pair of the sp120 HP fans. Don't have a fan controller yet, but plan on getting one once I save up a few more bucks to replace my other fans.


----------



## Nastrodamous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbobb*
> 
> I went ahead and ordered a pair of the sp120 HP fans. Don't have a fan controller yet, but plan on getting one once I save up a few more bucks to replace my other fans.


cool, once i save up some more money I am going to get a proper fan controller with a screen and buttons with lights etc, i just have a slider right now


----------



## Tohru Rokuno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> should be thats pretty good static pressure , thats what people ignore , there are plenty of fans with more cfm than typhoons and even less noise but without proper static pressure its like having a big fan with no shroud to direct it.. Those sound pretty good , and they are 120mm ?


Yes, they're 120mm.


----------



## whitextasy

Here is mine:

Just arrived yesterday, haven't installed it yet.
Thank you


----------



## [email protected]

Guys i have a question. My cooler is still going strong since a long time i bought it from Best Buy two years ago and i believe it's still running fine ever since. Do you think i should go ahead and get another one? I have no idea how these coolers can last! Any recommendation?

I just wanted to be sure before it ever goes out on me but it never has lol. *knocks on wood*


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Guys i have a question. My cooler is still going strong since a long time i bought it from Best Buy two years ago and i believe it's still running fine ever since. Do you think i should go ahead and get another one? I have no idea how these coolers can last! Any recommendation?
> I just wanted to be sure before it ever goes out on me but it never has lol. *knocks on wood*


Dont fix it if it aint broken , it wont leak your just going to notice temp increases with time , when your not happy with it then change it


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Guys i have a question. My cooler is still going strong since a long time i bought it from Best Buy two years ago and i believe it's still running fine ever since. Do you think i should go ahead and get another one? I have no idea how these coolers can last! Any recommendation?
> I just wanted to be sure before it ever goes out on me but it never has lol. *knocks on wood*


Also how long is a long time? Is it still under warranty? At minimum I'd wait till the warranty is done for.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I have PM'd the person I felt most applicable to take over this club. We might have a new club owner here very soon guys.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Please welcome our new club owner:
OverClocker55

Congratulations mate!


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Please welcome our new club owner:
> OverClocker55
> 
> Congratulations mate!


Thank You


----------



## Degree

Does the H100 still have the noise issue?


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Does the H100 still have the noise issue?


The Hydro Series pumps are quite noisy and my H60 makes a lot of noise sometimes. If your PC isn't heavy then titling the PC to its side always helps and my H60 becomes quiet again.
My friend owns the H100 and has the same problem unless he tilts his case.


----------



## simonfredette

mine was noisy running on high setting , I dont know why I thought the speed was for the fans not the pump maybe its just a power thing , send more to the fans and lose on pump but running on high made it vibrate a bit or growl


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> mine was noisy running on high setting , I dont know why I thought the speed was for the fans not the pump maybe its just a power thing , send more to the fans and lose on pump but running on high made it vibrate a bit or growl


this is the exact noise i get


----------



## simonfredette

I put shims under one side of the case so it tilts it to put the pump more flat , small shim ( all right theyre beer caps ) and it does help but not as much as just lowering the speen button to medium


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> The Hydro Series pumps are quite noisy and my H60 makes a lot of noise sometimes. If your PC isn't heavy then titling the PC to its side always helps and my H60 becomes quiet again.
> My friend owns the H100 and has the same problem unless he tilts his case.


I thought that Corsair recently fixed the issues with the pump noise, or did I hear wrong?


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> The Hydro Series pumps are quite noisy and my H60 makes a lot of noise sometimes. If your PC isn't heavy then titling the PC to its side always helps and my H60 becomes quiet again.
> My friend owns the H100 and has the same problem unless he tilts his case.
> 
> 
> 
> I thought that Corsair recently fixed the issues with the pump noise, or did I hear wrong?
Click to expand...

My friend just got his.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Does the H100 still have the noise issue?


Mine doesn't have this problem.


----------



## Degree

Looks like I'm going with the D14 *sigh*
Thought it was fixed


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Looks like I'm going with the D14 *sigh*
> Thought it was fixed


As most said some are fine and don't have the problem.


----------



## sotorious

Oh wow I hope it's not noisy I have the h100 otw


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Guys i have a question. My cooler is still going strong since a long time i bought it from Best Buy two years ago and i believe it's still running fine ever since. Do you think i should go ahead and get another one? I have no idea how these coolers can last! Any recommendation?
> I just wanted to be sure before it ever goes out on me but it never has lol. *knocks on wood*


The only thing you need to do is (if you haven't done it already) remove it and replace the TIM. Preferably with AS5, MX4 or another equal or better performing TIM. (I've been using MX4 for a while and it works extremely well with no 'cure time' like AS5).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> mine was noisy running on high setting , I dont know why I thought the speed was for the fans not the pump maybe its just a power thing , send more to the fans and lose on pump but running on high made it vibrate a bit or growl


For those of you with the "growl" noise, how do you have your radiator oriented? Before I modified my H50 I was getting that same noise with theradiator oriented so that the intake/output was at the top (even did it when I had it in one orientation with the intake/output on the side. I turned it so that the intake/output (where the tubes connect to the radiator) was on the bottom and after running it (connected to a jumpered PSU) while tilting the pump/heatsink back and forth a little the "growl" went away to almost nothing. I think it was air trapped in the pump and since there's an air pocket in the radiator I think that's the source of it (my best guess).


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sotorious*
> 
> Oh wow I hope it's not noisy I have the h100 otw


I hope yours like mine...running silently.

BTW, (can anyone redirect me), what is the best non-conductive liquid for liquid cooling?


----------



## OverClocker55

Got to get control of the spread sheets. Will update once I get them


----------



## theonedub

My H60 is loud as all get out unless I slow the pump to 4k RPM, and even then it needs an occasional tap to be silent. Hearing it on silent led me to find out my H100 has an ever so slight 'seeking' noise coming from the pump- nearly inaudible unless I have my head in the case, so its not that bothersome.

In reality, the way Corsair ultimately handles the bearing defect will decide whether or not I continue purchasing their products. Everyone talks about their famed customer service, but in my experiences with RMAs from multiple companies, Corsair's service is near the bottom. For example, Corsair was supposed to replace the fan controller on my 650D, after sending my mailing info at least 2x to them I was assured it would be mailed 'today if I sent my address again.' I sent my address to them again and still don't have my fan controller- that was *11 months ago*.

I'm really hoping the don't screw up the Hydro Series RMA, but I am not holding my breath.


----------



## Solders18

I would ask everyone that is having the growling noise: how do you have he radiator orientated? if you have the tubes on the top it will be constantly sucking in air and make the growling noise till it gets all the air out of the pump. when some of you say you tilt your case it sounds like you are tilting it just enough so the air bubble in the rad goes away from the tube and the air works out. for best results and lowest chance of air getting in the pump you should have the tubes coming down out of the radiator or and the bottom of the radiator. centrifugal pumps don't like having ANY air in them. they get ANGRY! Hence the GROWL!


----------



## Jinny1

Hey Guys,

What is the average idle temperature that i should be expecting when using a H60 with my 3570k??

Everything on stock and using one fan.

thank you


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinny1*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> What is the average idle temperature that i should be expecting when using a H60 with my 3570k??
> 
> Everything on stock and using one fan.
> 
> thank you


I don't own the 3570k but I get around 28c-32c idles on my i5 2500k. Ivy runs hotter though yes?


----------



## simonfredette

yeah IVY is a bit hotter but idle is idle I wouldnt expect more than 35 tops on idle , a bit less if you use your own TIM instead of what they put , theirs is ok and does the job but you can get one or two degrees with some arctic or something.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Looks like I'm going with the D14 *sigh*
> Thought it was fixed


Several months back, there were several D14 owners expressing how happy they were with the change/conversion to the H100! I was one of them. I couldn't imagine giving up the convenience of easily swapping Ram sicks and CPU's and how much cleaner your case is overall, and how much cooler my motherboard runs (4-5c), probably due to better case ventilation and heat transfer away from the mobo. I was actually very happy to put all my components back into a case and put my "Test Bench" back into service as an actual test bench.

My pump "growl" noise is nearly non-existent, occasionally i will tilt the case 10-20 degreess for 10-15 seconds when i even suspect there may be some trapped air, and it immediately goes away, sometimes for months at a time! Mine is "Top Mounted" and i rarely set the pump above Low ... don't need to for a 24/7 OC @4.6 in 80F+ ambients ... 65c temps at max loads! The H100 is no substitute for custom H2o cooling, but IMHO it is superior in every way to the D14 including performance in a case, the gap does narrow using a test bench setup.


----------



## KoukiFC3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinny1*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> What is the average idle temperature that i should be expecting when using a H60 with my 3570k??
> Everything on stock and using one fan.
> thank you


I just installed mine yesterday. My 3570K is idling at 30C and loads at 59C.

I am using the stock fan pulling air out of the radiator, out of the case.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I hope yours like mine...running silently.
> BTW, (can anyone redirect me), what is the best non-conductive liquid for liquid cooling?


Good old walmart distilled water with an anti-corrosion/anti-microbial additive.


----------



## Krusher33

Have you done your mod yet bubba?


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Have you done your mod yet bubba?


Yep, posted a picture here of it. Haven't come up with an idea for a res though. Thought about PVC pipe with caps but I want it to look sleek and nice. Might even mount it outside the case on the back. Briefly considered a Heineken mini keg but then saw someone already did that


----------



## Krusher33

Oh right. Forgot about that.

I might be getting a hand-me-down kit so I might not be modding mine after all. I was just curious if anything.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Oh right. Forgot about that.
> I might be getting a hand-me-down kit so I might not be modding mine after all. I was just curious if anything.


Which one?


----------



## Krusher33

If all goes well, Rasa 240 me hope.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> The Hydro Series pumps are quite noisy and my H60 makes a lot of noise sometimes. If your PC isn't heavy then titling the PC to its side always helps and my H60 becomes quiet again.
> My friend owns the H100 and has the same problem unless he tilts his case.


I'm not having that issue with my H100, and neither is my roommate with his. In fact, my H50 is louder than my H100. Every once in a while (once every few weeks) I might hear a little rattle for a few seconds and then it goes away. I'm not even sure it's the cooler (could be my case). I have heard some other people say that if you shake them up good before installing you can prevent this from happening, but as I said I never had the problem so....

(Welcome btw).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> mine was noisy running on high setting , I dont know why I thought the speed was for the fans not the pump maybe its just a power thing , send more to the fans and lose on pump but running on high made it vibrate a bit or growl


Wow, if mine had of done that when I bought it I would have exchanged it same day. I only used the pump fan controller for about 4 months, but I used it with 4 fans. I never noticed any odd noises. I have to put my head right inside my case to hear the pump. Now I'm not using the block fan controller at all. I'm using PWM fans and plugging them into my mobo for control. Works much better than the block controller.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> The only thing you need to do is (if you haven't done it already) remove it and replace the TIM. Preferably with AS5, MX4 or another equal or better performing TIM. (I've been using MX4 for a while and it works extremely well with no 'cure time' like AS5).


You don't need to do anything if there are no temperature changes. The stock TIM on the H50 and older H70 is Shin-Etsu which was, and likely still is one of the best TIMs you can get.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62

The new Corsair products use Dow Corning TIM which is supposed to be as good or slightly better.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> My H60 is loud as all get out unless I slow the pump to 4k RPM, and even then it needs an occasional tap to be silent. Hearing it on silent led me to find out my H100 has an ever so slight 'seeking' noise coming from the pump- nearly inaudible unless I have my head in the case, so its not that bothersome.
> In reality, the way Corsair ultimately handles the bearing defect will decide whether or not I continue purchasing their products. Everyone talks about their famed customer service, but in my experiences with RMAs from multiple companies, Corsair's service is near the bottom. For example, Corsair was supposed to replace the fan controller on my 650D, after sending my mailing info at least 2x to them I was assured it would be mailed 'today if I sent my address again.' I sent my address to them again and still don't have my fan controller- that was *11 months ago*.
> I'm really hoping the don't screw up the Hydro Series RMA, but I am not holding my breath.


I've returned a mouse to Corsair and had the replacement back in a week (from Canada). I've heard some people have had a problem, but most people I talk to that have had to RMA have been pretty happy. Perhaps you should contact [email protected] and ask him if he can help you with your issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> yeah IVY is a bit hotter but idle is idle I wouldnt expect more than 35 tops on idle , a bit less if you use your own TIM instead of what they put , theirs is ok and does the job but you can get one or two degrees with some arctic or something.


The thermal paste on Corsair Hydro coolers is some of the best paste you can get. AC5 is good stuff, but requires something like 200 hours to cure. You can get the same results with the stock Dow Corning or Shin-Etsu TIM on the Corsair coolers without requiring any curing time.

If you check the link above you can find an excellent TIM test article.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I'm not having that issue with my H100, and neither is my roommate with his. In fact, my H50 is louder than my H100. Every once in a while (once every few weeks) I might hear a little rattle for a few seconds and then it goes away. I'm not even sure it's the cooler (could be my case). I have heard some other people say that if you shake them up good before installing you can prevent this from happening, but as I said I never had the problem so....
> (Welcome btw).
> Wow, if mine had of done that when I bought it I would have exchanged it same day. I only used the pump fan controller for about 4 months, but I used it with 4 fans. I never noticed any odd noises. I have to put my head right inside my case to hear the pump. Now I'm not using the block fan controller at all. I'm using PWM fans and plugging them into my mobo for control. Works much better than the block controller.
> You don't need to do anything if there are no temperature changes. The stock TIM on the H50 and older H70 is Shin-Etsu which was, and likely still is one of the best TIMs you can get.
> http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62
> The new Corsair products use Dow Corning TIM which is supposed to be as good or slightly better.
> I've returned a mouse to Corsair and had the replacement back in a week (from Canada). I've heard some people have had a problem, but most people I talk to that have had to RMA have been pretty happy. Perhaps you should contact [email protected] and ask him if he can help you with your issue.
> The thermal paste on Corsair Hydro coolers is some of the best paste you can get. AC5 is good stuff, but requires something like 200 hours to cure. You can get the same results with the stock Dow Corning or Shin-Etsu TIM on the Corsair coolers without requiring any curing time.
> If you check the link above you can find an excellent TIM test article.


True, if not for one thing. They put a pretty significant amount of TIM on the cooler stock. The BEST way to apply TIM is a very thin layer on the CPU. The whole purpose for using TIM is to fill in the microgaps, not to be a buffer between the cooler and CPU IHS. Direct metal to metal contact is always the best. But even the best lapped heatsink will have some micro gaps which is where a nice thin layer of TIM comes in. Even the best TIM out there when improperly applied will lead to higher than expected temperatures.


----------



## kizwan

It also depend on what CPU you use. For 2011 socket, the processor have large heatspreader. When H100 copper plate pressing the CPU, the TIM will spread & create very thin layer. I use the stock TIM & it does perform like I expected.

I did test two different TIMs for a couple of months on my other computer. I found one of the TIM excels in many situation including poor contact, very little TIM & "accidentally" too many TIM. While the other performed poorly.


----------



## Ceadderman

I had the growling noise for a little bit when I had my H50. Radiator was mounted horizontally.

I took an unsharpened pencil(chopstick will do also) and rapped on the tubes, the noise went away and never came back. *Generally* it's due to air trapped in the corrugated tubing. The rapping on the tubing while it's in operation shakes it loose and where my Radiator was set up allowed the air to be trapped at it's highest point.

If you can't set it up in this manner then I would suggest setting up the Radiator so the tubes are at the lowest point causing the air inside to be trapped at the highest point of the radiator that being the closed off end where bubbles will become a solid one over time. Air doesn't travel down in liquid without force behind it so imho that's the safest way to mount the Radiators. I know what the Corsair rep said but he's wrong. There is air in the system and the difference could be between the system gulping or sipping the coolant. If it's sipping the pump isn't getting enough lubrication and the system will fail to do what it's tasked for.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I had the growling noise for a little bit when I had my H50. Radiator was mounted horizontally.
> I took an unsharpened pencil(chopstick will do also) and rapped on the tubes, the noise went away and never came back. *Generally* it's due to air trapped in the corrugated tubing. The rapping on the tubing while it's in operation shakes it loose and where my Radiator was set up allowed the air to be trapped at it's highest point.
> If you can't set it up in this manner then I would suggest setting up the Radiator so the tubes are at the lowest point causing the air inside to be trapped at the highest point of the radiator that being the closed off end where bubbles will become a solid one over time. Air doesn't travel down in liquid without force behind it so imho that's the safest way to mount the Radiators. I know what the Corsair rep said but he's wrong. There is air in the system and the difference could be between the system gulping or sipping the coolant. If it's sipping the pump isn't getting enough lubrication and the system will fail to do what it's tasked for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That's what I said....with the rad's ports at the bottom being the ideal setup. Ceadder is absolutely correct.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Also how long is a long time? Is it still under warranty? At minimum I'd wait till the warranty is done for.


That's the problem i think i forgot when i bought this. I got this cooler from Best Buy but i think it's 2 years ago im sure 3 years isn't up yet. Just making sure. Thanks for your help anyways. I plan upgrading my system in the fall when things go on sale. Been wanting a bigger SSD for some time too and more upgrades too. Not sure where to start yet right now cuz my system runs great. Just wouldn't love to have a new processor and MAYBE a new mobo. Sandy Bridge MIGHT be my next choice i don't know. Or Ivy.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

The 3 year warranty is only on some of the newer series. The H50 only has a 2 year warranty.


----------



## simonfredette

I imagine everyone here has read this before but its corsairs response to the noise than SOME people have been having as well as a known fix to the issue, I know if I had found it earlier it would have saved a little stress. Heres the link!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1236923/corsair-h100-h80-h60-noise-grinding-pump-fix-official-corsair-response


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> I imagine everyone here has read this before but its corsairs response to the noise than SOME people have been having as well as a known fix to the issue, I know if I had found it earlier it would have saved a little stress. Heres the link!
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1236923/corsair-h100-h80-h60-noise-grinding-pump-fix-official-corsair-response


You have to remember that the "growling" noise is different than the "grinding" noise. Most of the time the "growling" noise is going to be air in the pump. (trust me I know the noise well from dumping all the coolant out and adding more after modifying the loop and running it till all the air got out).


----------



## simonfredette

yeah and often the growling noise can be fixed just by changing the position of the rad or even tilting the rig to move the bubble , its kinda to be expected though although its a sealed system its bound to lose some fluid with temperature change


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> yeah and often the growling noise can be fixed just by changing the position of the rad or even tilting the rig to move the bubble , its kinda to be expected though although its a sealed system its bound to lose some fluid with temperature change


This is just pure speculation, but I believe the reason they left an air bubble in the rad is to prevent suction resistance when the pump starts. Air compresses/decompresses much easier than liquid.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> This is just pure speculation, but I believe the reason they left an air bubble in the rad is to prevent suction resistance when the pump starts. Air compresses/decompresses much easier than liquid.


No it would make sense , and not only does air compress and decompress better but a liquid doesnt compress at all , its kinda the definition of a liquid ( yes , some liquids are compressible.. I can hear physics teachers ) but it would make sense to leave a little bit of air to allow for that expansion and prevent the resistance .


----------



## OverClocker55

Under Construction








I'm working on a new spread sheet and picture. Also anyone want to make a new sig?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Under Construction
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm working on a new spread sheet and picture. Also anyone want to make a new sig?


For sig, just a simple sig like this:-

Code:



Code:


[URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/612436/official-corsair-hydro-series-club#post_7690988][B][Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club[/B][/URL]

Preview:-
*[Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club*

or a picture:-


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Under Construction
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm working on a new spread sheet and picture. Also anyone want to make a new sig?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For sig, just a simple sig like this:-
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/612436/official-corsair-hydro-series-club#post_7690988][B][Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club[/B][/URL]
> 
> Preview:-
> *[Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club*
> 
> or a picture:-
Click to expand...

Thank You! Anyone Else? Going to let the members decide on the sig but I do like that one. Picture is great too!


----------



## matrix2000x2

I'm getting a H100, and I have a Diablotek Fly case that I want to mod to fit the 240mm rad onto the top of the case. I plan on buying the Phobya, shown here http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=28822
Will the H100 fit onto that grill?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> True, if not for one thing. They put a pretty significant amount of TIM on the cooler stock. The BEST way to apply TIM is a very thin layer on the CPU. The whole purpose for using TIM is to fill in the microgaps, not to be a buffer between the cooler and CPU IHS. Direct metal to metal contact is always the best. But even the best lapped heatsink will have some micro gaps which is where a nice thin layer of TIM comes in. Even the best TIM out there when improperly applied will lead to higher than expected temperatures.


Actually, if you read the article testing TIMs, you would see that there is no "best way". The method you use is dependent on what type of cooler you have and what type of surface they use on the block. However, any method if done carefully and thoughtfully will likely work (layer, blob, single strip or multiple strips). The author of the article did very extensive testing.

I use the BB sized blob on my coolers now and it has been working fine. I used to use the thin layer method until I read the article and saw the pictures (thanks to Ceadderman for providing the link to the original article). When I do remove my cooler for whatever reason, and I have to replace the stock TIM using a blob, I have never noticed any temperature differences. In fact, the temp is usually a couple of degrees higher because I use AS5, but after a couple of weeks comes back down where it was. I would go so far as to say the manufacturers most likely extensively test this before putting a product on the market, especially a company like Corsair. I have used three of their coolers in my own computers, and their stock application has never caused any problems.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> The 3 year warranty is only on some of the newer series. The H50 only has a 2 year warranty.


It's FIVE years on the entire current Hydro series except the H40, which is TWO years.

http://www.corsair.com/en/cpu-cooling-kits/hydro-series-water-cooling-cpu-cooler.html

Didn't we cover that a week or two ago?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> No it would make sense , and not only does air compress and decompress better but a liquid doesnt compress at all , its kinda the definition of a liquid ( yes , some liquids are compressible.. I can hear physics teachers ) but it would make sense to leave a little bit of air to allow for that expansion and prevent the resistance .


If the system is sealed, it can't "lose a little coolant".

In a car, they use brake fluid because it transmits force without compressing (and it doesn't freeze). In fact, the water at the bottom of the oceans is denser than the water at the top due to compression. It's been years since I took mechanics in high school, but I believe the master cylinder in a car exerts a lot of force on the fluid in the hoses which will cause some fluids to compress more than others.

If these companies do leave a little air in the rad on purpose, it's likely because the air will compress far more than the fluid or coolant vapor, so if the cooler gets warm enough to cause the coolant to expand, the air will compress to allow room for the expanded coolant. As we know, fluids expand when they get warm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> For sig, just a simple sig like this:-
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/612436/official-corsair-hydro-series-club#post_7690988][B][Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club[/B][/URL]
> 
> Preview:-
> *[Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club*
> 
> or a picture:-


Pictures like that are too big. Short and sweet is the way to go. In fact, I believe there are rules about how many lines your Sig is allowed to take up, so the shorter the better. Personally I like the one we have now. I would like it better of someone could get the colour working in the sigs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matrix2000x2*
> 
> I'm getting a H100, and I have a Diablotek Fly case that I want to mod to fit the 240mm rad onto the top of the case. I plan on buying the Phobya, shown here http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=28822
> Will the H100 fit onto that grill?


They don't give any dimensions for that grill. However, it looks like it should fit since it's 2 x 120. I would give you an end to end measurement of the H100 but it's available on the Corsair website, and since there are no measurements for the grill there's not much point.


----------



## simonfredette

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Actually, if you read the article testing TIMs, you would see that there is no "best way". The method you use is dependent on what type of cooler you have and what type of surface they use on the block. However, any method if done carefully and thoughtfully will likely work (layer, blob, single strip or multiple strips). The author of the article did very extensive testing.
> I use the BB sized blob on my coolers now and it has been working fine. I used to use the thin layer method until I read the article and saw the pictures (thanks to Ceadderman for providing the link to the original article). When I do remove my cooler for whatever reason, and I have to replace the stock TIM using a blob, I have never noticed any temperature differences. In fact, the temp is usually a couple of degrees higher because I use AS5, but after a couple of weeks comes back down where it was. I would go so far as to say the manufacturers most likely extensively test this before putting a product on the market, especially a company like Corsair. I have used three of their coolers in my own computers, and their stock application has never caused any problems.
> It's FIVE years on the entire current Hydro series except the H40, which is TWO years.
> http://www.corsair.com/en/cpu-cooling-kits/hydro-series-water-cooling-cpu-cooler.html
> Didn't we cover that a week or two ago?
> If the system is sealed, it can't "lose a little coolant".
> In a car, they use brake fluid because it transmits force without compressing (and it doesn't freeze). In fact, the water at the bottom of the oceans is denser than the water at the top due to compression. It's been years since I took mechanics in high school, but I believe the master cylinder in a car exerts a lot of force on the fluid in the hoses which will cause some fluids to compress more than others.
> If these companies do leave a little air in the rad on purpose, it's likely because the air will compress far more than the fluid or coolant vapor, so if the cooler gets warm enough to cause the coolant to expand, the air will compress to allow room for the expanded coolant. As we know, fluids expand when they get warm.
> Pictures like that are too big. Short and sweet is the way to go. In fact, I believe there are rules about how many lines your Sig is allowed to take up, so the shorter the better. Personally I like the one we have now. I would like it better of someone could get the colour working in the sigs.
> They don't give any dimensions for that grill. However, it looks like it should fit since it's 2 x 120. I would give you an end to end measurement of the H100 but it's available on the Corsair website, and since there are no measurements for the grill there's not much point.






Yeah but you have to understand that nothing is really sealed , not at that price anyways , I mean Im a mechanic on military aircraft for the royal canadian airforce and trust me things that are sealed like landing gear or brake lines etc leak with time and the rate is so small you will never know it.. Corsair has the flexible tubes too that come stock , its not east to make that completely sealed , theyve done a great job though it performs pretty well even after a few years


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Actually, if you read the article testing TIMs, you would see that there is no "best way". The method you use is dependent on what type of cooler you have and what type of surface they use on the block. However, any method if done carefully and thoughtfully will likely work (layer, blob, single strip or multiple strips). The author of the article did very extensive testing.
> I use the BB sized blob on my coolers now and it has been working fine. I used to use the thin layer method until I read the article and saw the pictures (thanks to Ceadderman for providing the link to the original article). When I do remove my cooler for whatever reason, and I have to replace the stock TIM using a blob, I have never noticed any temperature differences. In fact, the temp is usually a couple of degrees higher because I use AS5, but after a couple of weeks comes back down where it was. I would go so far as to say the manufacturers most likely extensively test this before putting a product on the market, especially a company like Corsair. I have used three of their coolers in my own computers, and their stock application has never caused any problems.
> It's FIVE years on the entire current Hydro series except the H40, which is TWO years.
> http://www.corsair.com/en/cpu-cooling-kits/hydro-series-water-cooling-cpu-cooler.html
> Didn't we cover that a week or two ago?
> If the system is sealed, it can't "lose a little coolant".
> In a car, they use brake fluid because it transmits force without compressing (and it doesn't freeze). In fact, the water at the bottom of the oceans is denser than the water at the top due to compression. It's been years since I took mechanics in high school, but I believe the master cylinder in a car exerts a lot of force on the fluid in the hoses which will cause some fluids to compress more than others.
> If these companies do leave a little air in the rad on purpose, it's likely because the air will compress far more than the fluid or coolant vapor, so if the cooler gets warm enough to cause the coolant to expand, the air will compress to allow room for the expanded coolant. As we know, fluids expand when they get warm.
> Pictures like that are too big. Short and sweet is the way to go. In fact, I believe there are rules about how many lines your Sig is allowed to take up, so the shorter the better. Personally I like the one we have now. I would like it better of someone could get the colour working in the sigs.
> They don't give any dimensions for that grill. However, it looks like it should fit since it's 2 x 120. I would give you an end to end measurement of the H100 but it's available on the Corsair website, and since there are no measurements for the grill there's not much point.


3, 5 whatever. The point is *his* H50 is out of warranty.

As for the TIM. Using the "BB" method is one of the worst ways if you are using anything but a "round" heatsink.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=4


----------



## Mergatroid

"3, 5 whatever. The point is his H50 is out of warranty."

Just making sure other people reading your post don't get the wrong information.

As for the TIM, I've been getting a good spread from it with the hydro coolers or I wouldn't be using it.

From the link above:

"My results show that the single drop pattern spread out to reach only two edges of the CPU, while falling short of the other two sides. This could be attributed to several variables: poor mounting system and pressure, uneven mounting surface on the cooler or processor, and perhaps even a warped motherboard."

I guess I don't have any uneven pressure or warped boards.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> "3, 5 whatever. The point is his H50 is out of warranty."
> Just making sure other people reading your post don't get the wrong information.
> As for the TIM, I've been getting a good spread from it with the hydro coolers or I wouldn't be using it.
> From the link above:
> "My results show that the single drop pattern spread out to reach only two edges of the CPU, while falling short of the other two sides. This could be attributed to several variables: poor mounting system and pressure, uneven mounting surface on the cooler or processor, and perhaps even a warped motherboard."
> I guess I don't have any uneven pressure or warped boards.


I understand what you're saying. The 2 most important parts of applying TIM are making sure it's fully covered and not too thick. IMHO using the thin layer method has always yielded the best results for me (as opposed to the BB method).


----------



## Degree

About to install the H100 soon


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> About to install the H100 soon


Welcome to the club!

Fun fact:-
The grills/fins & the four screw holes (each side) on the middle of the radiator are too close. You will bent the grills/fins with the screw. It's not a problem but if you don't want to bent the grills, you will need to use thicker washer.


----------



## simonfredette

Or shave the end of the screw a couple threads , thats what I did.. considerably more trouble now that I think about it


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> considerably more trouble now that I think about it


Agreed! After cutting/grinding the length of the screws on my 1st personal installation (actually more than a couple threads) ... I went to the "spread the fins" technique with a centerpunch (or toothpick) so the screw slips between the fins instead of crushing them on my last 3 builds ... works fine!
And I certainly wouldn't bother with "spacers" as single washers won't do it, and it would just look tacky overall!

Additionally, I forgot to mention none of my friends have complained about the afforementioned "growling" noise ... the only reason I brought it up is I'm extremely "anal" about even small details


----------



## Mergatroid

Lol, aren't we all in one way or another?


----------



## sotorious

is it just me or was it hard to get the corsair h100 head on top of the cpu? i did mount the radiator first before putting the head on. When trying to line up the screws one would not line up at all times. I finally forced it a bit and went


----------



## Erick Silver

Hey all. Its been a while since I posted in here but I need your super powered help.

I am running a X6 1090t processor under an H60. Recently when I start up my VM for running my X6 for folding I notice that Temps steadily increase to well over Max(65*c). Yet when at idle temps are at about 39*c(a little warm but its due to my temporary setup due to moving). When I open the case and tap the tubing when at full VM load the temps drop. I stop tapping and they climb again. Do I have a blockage somewhere?


----------



## nerdybeat

Hey all, just picked up an H100 to upgrade my CPU cooling. Does anyone else run an H100 with another sort of 120mm closed loop rad in their case? I am looking to run the H100 up top as exhaust, but trying to figure out if I should leave my 120mm GPU cooler in it's current position or move it to where my H70 currently is with the H100 installed....


So I can either:

1) Install H100 up top with my gt ap-15's (from H70) as push, and keep then Antec Kuhler in it's same spot, and move the current ap-14 case fans to one in exahust rear, and one on the Antec Kuhler to replace the stock corsair fan.

2) Install H100 up top with my gt ap-15's (from H70) as push, and then move the Antec Kuhler to the rear exhaust where my H70 currently is. I would then try with push/pull ap-14's, but if it doesn't fit then I would run just push or pull.

Keep in mind I have a 120mm fan intake in my HDD bay with a mod, so there will be some air flowing to the H100/rear exhaust.


Any input is helpful, thanks!


----------



## sotorious

Nerdy beat i love what you did with the hard drive cage. how did you get it to mount there?


----------



## theonedub

My current setup with the H100, SP120 fans (painted), and 650D case.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sotorious*
> 
> Nerdy beat i love what you did with the hard drive cage. how did you get it to mount there?


That's a stock option on the 650D. The HDD cage is split into two portions that you can either have stacked, side by side, run one with the other removed, or take them all out all together. Gives you options to have more room for GPUs or remove airflow restriction on the front intake, etc.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nerdybeat*
> 
> Hey all, just picked up an H100 to upgrade my CPU cooling. Does anyone else run an H100 with another sort of 120mm closed loop rad in their case? I am looking to run the H100 up top as exhaust, but trying to figure out if I should leave my 120mm GPU cooler in it's current position or move it to where my H70 currently is with the H100 installed....
> 
> So I can either:
> 1) Install H100 up top with my gt ap-15's (from H70) as push, and keep then Antec Kuhler in it's same spot, and move the current ap-14 case fans to one in exahust rear, and one on the Antec Kuhler to replace the stock corsair fan.
> 2) Install H100 up top with my gt ap-15's (from H70) as push, and then move the Antec Kuhler to the rear exhaust where my H70 currently is. I would then try with push/pull ap-14's, but if it doesn't fit then I would run just push or pull.
> Keep in mind I have a 120mm fan intake in my HDD bay with a mod, so there will be some air flowing to the H100/rear exhaust.
> Any input is helpful, thanks!


For best temps I would probably leave the Antec where it is and setup the H100 pulling air into the case from the top and a good exhaust fan in the rear 120mm position. I'm not sure that the Antec will fit in the rear 120 with the H100 installed, although I could probably mock it up with my H60 to see how close it is (just eyeballing it I woudl say that P/P on the antec with the H100 is not possible).

If it did fit fine with a single fan, I would probably switch to having the H100 setup as exhaust and the antec in the rear 120.


----------



## Erick Silver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Hey all. Its been a while since I posted in here but I need your super powered help.
> I am running a X6 1090t processor under an H60. Recently when I start up my VM for running my X6 for folding I notice that Temps steadily increase to well over Max(65*c). Yet when at idle temps are at about 39*c(a little warm but its due to my temporary setup due to moving). When I open the case and tap the tubing when at full VM load the temps drop. I stop tapping and they climb again. Do I have a blockage somewhere?


Still need help with this guys. I am not able to fold right now on my CPU because of this issue.


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Still need help with this guys. I am not able to fold right now on my CPU because of this issue.


That or an air bubble. I would take the whole thing out and give it a *thorough* shaking making sure the block is lower than the rad and the tubing is as straight as possible. Afterwards set the block down on a desk, hold up the rad, and give the tubes and block some more tapping to force any air bubble up and to the rad (would be even better if you were able to do this with the pump spinning). Test and report back.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Hey all. Its been a while since I posted in here but I need your super powered help.
> I am running a X6 1090t processor under an H60. Recently when I start up my VM for running my X6 for folding I notice that Temps steadily increase to well over Max(65*c). Yet when at idle temps are at about 39*c(a little warm but its due to my temporary setup due to moving). When I open the case and tap the tubing when at full VM load the temps drop. I stop tapping and they climb again. Do I have a blockage somewhere?
> 
> 
> 
> Still need help with this guys. I am not able to fold right now on my CPU because of this issue.
Click to expand...

Might you need to clean dust from your Radiator? Or was that already done?









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Hey all. Its been a while since I posted in here but I need your super powered help.
> I am running a X6 1090t processor under an H60. Recently when I start up my VM for running my X6 for folding I notice that Temps steadily increase to well over Max(65*c). Yet when at idle temps are at about 39*c(a little warm but its due to my temporary setup due to moving). When I open the case and tap the tubing when at full VM load the temps drop. I stop tapping and they climb again. Do I have a blockage somewhere?


Sounds like you may have some air in the system. Smack it around a bit (gently).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sotorious*
> 
> Nerdy beat i love what you did with the hard drive cage. how did you get it to mount there?


That's a Corsair 650D case. Both the 600T and 650D are made to be able to move the HD cages. More case manufacturers should do that.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Might you need to clean dust from your Radiator? Or was that already done?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Dust was my guess too at first till tapping was mentioned and then I was unsure.


----------



## Lordred

I have joined the ranks of the H100 Owners.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lordred*
> 
> I have joined the ranks of the H100 Owners.


Welcome!


----------



## King Who Dat

When are we gonna get a re-vamp on Corsair's CLC line ? I love my H80, but has anyone heard anything about a new, more powerful model in the works ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Might you need to clean dust from your Radiator? Or was that already done?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dust was my guess too at first till tapping was mentioned and then I was unsure.
Click to expand...

I'm assuming that he's running his with the inlet/outlet at the bottom so I don't see air involving itself this far along in the process, is kind of why I think dust is the more likely candidate. Also his Idle temps are reasonable which would tell me that the airflow or lack thereof may be the culprit. Also much easier to deal with than removing the whole unit and shaking it to dislodge a bubble right off the bat.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King Who Dat*
> 
> When are we gonna get a re-vamp on Corsair's CLC line ? I love my H80, but has anyone heard anything about a new, more powerful model in the works ?


I doubt they're gonna get anything more "powerful" than the H100. Certainly it's possible but either a thicker/360 Radiator. Neither of which I believe they'll try. Would be cool, I just don't see it.









~Ceadder


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm assuming that he's running his with the inlet/outlet at the bottom so I don't see air involving itself this far along in the process, is kind of why I think dust is the more likely candidate. Also his Idle temps are reasonable which would tell me that the airflow or lack thereof may be the culprit. Also much easier to deal with than removing the whole unit and shaking it to dislodge a bubble right off the bat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I doubt they're gonna get anything more "powerful" than the H100. Certainly it's possible but either a thicker/360 Radiator. Neither of which I believe they'll try. Would be cool, I just don't see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King Who Dat*
> 
> When are we gonna get a re-vamp on Corsair's CLC line ? I love my H80, but has anyone heard anything about a new, more powerful model in the works ?


I think its reasonable to think an H100 with the thicker radiator (like the H80) would be in the works, especially since Thermaltake has their Water2.0 Extreme which looks to be a thicker radiator version of the H100.

I would like to see a double thick 280 rad, but I think that is indeed out of the realm of possibility.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King Who Dat*
> 
> When are we gonna get a re-vamp on Corsair's CLC line ? I love my H80, but has anyone heard anything about a new, more powerful model in the works ?


The H80 and H100 have only been out for, what, ten months? Besides, I don't think I would purchase anything heftier myself. The H100 is doing what I need it for.

Perhaps they will come out with a version that has a more robust pump.


----------



## ra_27

Hello all think of getting a H100 has anyone use the new Corsair Airflow or Static Pressure models with it yet?

and are the stock fans OK or is it better to go buy some newer ones for the likes of Noctua ?

I see a video a while back that said the not the best dam if I can video was called.

any help is a big help as I'm working on my new system build list at this time. I real like the H100 if i have the cash to get it if not how is the H80?

going to be putting it on a Intel 3770k if all go to plan.


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ra_27*
> 
> Hello all think of getting a H100 has anyone use the new Corsair Airflow or Static Pressure models with it yet?
> and are the stock fans OK or is it better to go buy some newer ones for the likes of Noctua ?
> I see a video a while back that said the not the best dam if I can video was called.
> any help is a big help as I'm working on my new system build list at this time. I real like the H100 if i have the cash to get it if not how is the H80?
> going to be putting it on a Intel 3770k if all go to plan.


I few posts ago I showed a picture of my H100 with the SP120 High Performance fans installed. They are moderately loud and, as I mentioned, cannot be controlled by the H80/100 block. The stock fans specs are better, but the high profile on the H100 is really overkill unless you are running very high clock or producing a ton of heat. In 100F weather the difference in temps between high and medium with the stock fans on my 2600k @ 4.3ghz was about 2C.


----------



## ChrisAfric

I have a corsair h80 installed in my 1090T. Running at stock at the moment. It is winter here at our country, when idle I get 13c and when full load I get 20c as the highest. I even get 9c during morning when I start my pc.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## ra_27

OK thanks for that !


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ra_27*
> 
> I real like the H100 if i have the cash to get it if not how is the H80?.


I'm not sure of prices in Australia ... and if your keeping your 600T for compatability to top mount the H100 ... beg, borrow or steel the now $10 difference (USA) for the H100 over the H80. The H100 doesn't really out perform the H80 by that much for the average overclocker, but it is quieter and IMO a much tidier/cleaner installation if your case will accept a top-mount installation. I think you will find the stock fans more than adequate even in a non-push/pull configuration. HERE is a nice review comparing the 2 in several different configurations


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ra_27*
> 
> Hello all think of getting a H100 has anyone use the new Corsair Airflow or Static Pressure models with it yet?
> and are the stock fans OK or is it better to go buy some newer ones for the likes of Noctua ?
> I see a video a while back that said the not the best dam if I can video was called.
> any help is a big help as I'm working on my new system build list at this time. I real like the H100 if i have the cash to get it if not how is the H80?
> going to be putting it on a Intel 3770k if all go to plan.


Actually the H100 fans are excellent fans. Very high static pressure ( At 1300 RPM, 1.6 mm/H20 22dBA, at 2600 RPM, 7.7mm/H20 39dBA). As you can see their specs are quite good. Some people complain that they are noisy, but at their lowest RPM setting they are only 22dBA but still perform well. I would suggest trying them before you decide to replace them. The only thing I don't like about them is they are 3-pin (as most fans are). I prefer 4-pin, which is what I am using now (4-pin PWM). I use a PWM splitter and plug them into the motherboard CPU_FAN header so the motherboard can control the RPM of the fans. This makes them very quiet at low RPM. I'm using Scythe Slip Stream 1900 RPM PWM fans right now, but they are not the best fans for a rad. If you want quiet, you can use the H100 on its low range. Personally I prefer using the motherboard because it can control fans through their entire range, not just a portion of it. Of course, you could always use a fan controller if you preferred.

Some people in the Corsair Graphite thread have been trying the new Corsair fans with the H100 (and other coolers). No one has really mentioned performance though.

http://www.overclock.net/t/831636/official-corsair-graphite-club

The H80 is also an excellent cooler, only a couple of degrees off from the H100. I usually recommend people purchase whichever one fits in their case the best because they both perform so close to each other. The H80 fans are basically the same fans as used in the H100. I would still be using the stock H100 fans myself if they were PWM.

Both units look great installed, and both use the same fans so should be at the same noise level. I have the same case you have and have used the H70 and the H100 in my case. Both performed very well, and both looked pretty sweet. Look through the Graphite thread and you will see lots of 600Ts using both coolers. Search the thread for H100 and H80 and you should see a lot of great builds.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> I few posts ago I showed a picture of my H100 with the SP120 High Performance fans installed. They are moderately loud and, as I mentioned, cannot be controlled by the H80/100 block. The stock fans specs are better, but the high profile on the H100 is really overkill unless you are running very high clock or producing a ton of heat. In 100F weather the difference in temps between high and medium with the stock fans on my 2600k @ 4.3ghz was about 2C.


Why can't they be controlled by the H80/100 block? Any 3-pin or 4-pin fan can be controlled by those blocks as long as they don't draw too much power. If you're having a problem I would suggest contacting Corsair. They should be controllable on those blocks, especially considering they are Corsair fans. I would return any fans that were not controllable, but more likely I would contact Corsair for an explanation before deciding on returning the fans or the cooler.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisAfric*
> 
> I have a corsair h80 installed in my 1090T. Running at stock at the moment. It is winter here at our country, when idle I get 13c and when full load I get 20c as the highest. I even get 9c during morning when I start my pc.
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


You can't get lower than ambient. Is it really that cold in your room? Room temp is like 22c. Have you no furnace? 20c under full load? Must not be much of a load. Is your computer outside?


----------



## Erick Silver

I will be soon setting up my rig in an air conditioned room. A window AC unit will be blowing air into my H60 Rad for super nice temps. Probably gonna do it sometime this week. Waiting on AT&T to ship the self install package for my interwebs.


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Why can't they be controlled by the H80/100 block? Any 3-pin or 4-pin fan can be controlled by those blocks as long as they don't draw too much power. If you're having a problem I would suggest contacting Corsair. They should be controllable on those blocks, especially considering they are Corsair fans. I would return any fans that were not controllable, but more likely I would contact Corsair for an explanation before deciding on returning the fans or the cooler.


Thanks, but its definitely not a fault with my unit. I did my research before buying the fans, so I knew it wouldn't work going in. Its been covered over and over again in the Corsair Forums and confirmed by Corsair Representatives. The way the controller is designed makes it incompatible with *many fans.* It is incredibly shortsighted of Corsair not to make sure these fans worked with some of their own products, but that's beyond our control.

Here are a few of the posts where Corsair has explicitly said the fan controller will only run the SP120s at 100%:

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showpost.php?p=586719&postcount=2

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showpost.php?p=584426&postcount=10

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showpost.php?p=584453&postcount=4


----------



## [email protected]

Can anyone post if they had the cooler for more than 2 years. Does it still run? Or less?


----------



## Krusher33

I've had my H60 since April '11. It kept my HTPC quiet for 6 months or so and then I transferred it to my sig rig. No problems. Just a complaint of having such a stiff tubing is all I got. It literally flung itself out of my hand once caused a fin to get bent in the process.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I've had my H60 since April '11. It kept my HTPC quiet for 6 months or so and then I transferred it to my sig rig. No problems. Just a complaint of having such a stiff tubing is all I got. It literally flung itself out of my hand once caused a fin to get bent in the process.


Had the same thing. I put it on the screw holes and reached for my screw driver.. little did I know the h60 would fling out and hit me and get thermal paste on me.


----------



## Step83

Im in










H80 with a pair of GT1850s

CPU Phenom2 X4 960BE clocked to an X6 4.1Ghz @1.42v


----------



## Krusher33

I like it. Not so much lighting that you're blinded.


----------



## simonfredette

it looks really good and its really easy to sleeve tubing over the stock tubing there if you want the uv tubing or just colored tubing look , most people just cut the tub on one side all the way down and then slip it on and make sure the slit is where you cant see it and it looks great, its a good safe mod that doesnt interfere with the sealed unit .


----------



## Step83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I like it. Not so much lighting that you're blinded.


Thanks, case sits under my desk and has no window so not much point in fancy lights. get a nice glow from the roof though


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> Thanks, but its definitely not a fault with my unit. I did my research before buying the fans, so I knew it wouldn't work going in. Its been covered over and over again in the Corsair Forums and confirmed by Corsair Representatives. The way the controller is designed makes it incompatible with *many fans.* It is incredibly shortsighted of Corsair not to make sure these fans worked with some of their own products, but that's beyond our control.
> Here are a few of the posts where Corsair has explicitly said the fan controller will only run the SP120s at 100%:
> http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showpost.php?p=586719&postcount=2
> http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showpost.php?p=584426&postcount=10
> http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showpost.php?p=584453&postcount=4


Thanks for the links. It's pretty amazing that they're controller is so incompatible. I'm pretty flabbergasted actually, to consider a company that makes coolers and rads and sells fans makes a fan that doesn't work with their coolers. On top of that, they're not PWM either so you can't use the CPU_FAN header on the mobo (on most mobos) with their rad fans. That's an amazing oversite imo. It's like Ford selling tires that won't work on Ford vehicles (or will only partly work). I wonder why it won't work? They're 12V fans. The H80/100 block will even control PWM fans (since 3-pin control also works on PWM fans), so I have to wonder exactly whet they did to their new fans that causes them not to work?

That means that those fans can only be on 100%, or controlled with a fan controller, or controlled with a 12V regulated mobo fan_header. Oh well, they're static pressure is only half of the stock H100 fans anyway. Of course, it they're a lot quieter then some people may like them, and I would purchase a pair if they were PWM. Too bad.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I've had my H60 since April '11. It kept my HTPC quiet for 6 months or so and then I transferred it to my sig rig. No problems. Just a complaint of having such a stiff tubing is all I got. It literally flung itself out of my hand once caused a fin to get bent in the process.


Personally I'm fine with the stiff hoses. At first I didn't like them, but once I realized they are low permeability then I was fine with them over rubber. Plus, I think they look nicer than rubber as well (which I know is subjective). Personally, I think that tubing is one of the reasons they have such a long warranty.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> it looks really good and its really easy to sleeve tubing over the stock tubing there if you want the uv tubing or just colored tubing look , most people just cut the tub on one side all the way down and then slip it on and make sure the slit is where you cant see it and it looks great, its a good safe mod that doesnt interfere with the sealed unit .


Good point.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Personally I'm fine with the stiff hoses. At first I didn't like them, but once I realized they are low permeability then I was fine with them over rubber. Plus, I think they look nicer than rubber as well (which I know is subjective). Personally, I think that tubing is one of the reasons they have such a long warranty.
> Good point.


Yeah, I do have both the Kuhler and H60 and I do like the look of Corsair's tubing over Antec's. They're just hard to work with when first installing.


----------



## MrPerforations

hello corsair h crew,
iam about to get a h100 to cool my cpu,i was wondering if anyone can tell me the what kind of oc they can get using a 8120 please?
iam alos intrested to know if they have inclouded a second set of screws so i can push pull please?


----------



## Lordred

Some one was asking about long term use?

I have an H50 that has been in use since late 2009.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lordred*
> 
> Some one was asking about long term use?
> I have an H50 that has been in use since late 2009.


Mine was still working fine until the little sam kinison on my shoulder convinced me tear it apart


----------



## phazer11

Anyone have any suggestions on where to mount an H60 Rad and P/P configured fans in a HAF 932? There is a link in my sig if you need/want more specifics.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phazer11*
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions on where to mount an H60 Rad and P/P configured fans in a HAF 932? There is a link in my sig if you need/want more specifics.


Anywhere will work as long as you can mount a 120mm fan there. I would just go with having it intake from the rear and having your top fans as exhaust. You can choose to have it intake from the top and exhaust out the rear as well.


----------



## phazer11

well I need to be able to hook up three graphics cards to it as well and properly mount the psu, right now i kinda have the psu on the absolute bottom (no screws) fans exhausting out one side and the top, rad mounted in the rear but that is just a bandaid, the more detailed info is in,,,

http://www.overclock.net/t/1275427/corsair-h60-i5-2500k-asus-p8p67-pro-and-haf-932-headaches


----------



## Mergatroid

You have it mounted where it should be. I think though that with your case you could mount it in the 5 1/4" bay. Make a push/pull rad sandwich and test fit it into the drive cage with your optical drive installed in the top. Since the drive bay covers are mesh on that case you should get good airflow through the rad. If you can't figure a way to mount the assembly there are 5 1/4" fan mounting kits for 120mm fans. One should work for mounting a 120mm rad in the optical drive bays. Something like this: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=257&products_id=21871 .


----------



## phazer11

I think I have it, for now. Right now I guess I need to work on my cables, I'll look into that mount if I need it.


----------



## Erick Silver

so should my H60 be setup to have the hoses at the top of the rad or the bottom?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> so should my H60 be setup to have the hoses at the top of the rad or the bottom?


I would recommend the bottom. Air travels up. So I think that it's better to trap any air in the sytem at the point where it cannot travel back into the pump. With the inlet/outlet at the top of the system it's likely that air is indeed flowing through the pump. If anything running it with the tubes at the bottom is a precaution worth taking. I don't know why Corsair suggested that it should be mounted with the tubes at the top, but I think that's due more to the inexperience of the demonstrator. Considering that the H50 is a rebadged Acetek unit and Corsair didn't design or build it...









~Ceadder


----------



## Kokin

If you can't get bottom, there's no loss with having them go up top. I had my tubing on top for 90% of my H50's life and it didn't cause any problems.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> The 3 year warranty is only on some of the newer series. The H50 only has a 2 year warranty.


What about H70?


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> What about H70?


2 years
Quote:


> Cooling Products
> •Hydro Series™ (Models H60, H80, and H100) have a 5 year warranty
> •Hydro Series (Models H50 and H70) have a 2 year warranty
> •Air Series™ products (Models A50 and A70) have a 2 year warranty


http://www.corsair.com/support/warranty


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> If you can't get bottom, there's no loss with having them go up top. I had my tubing on top for 90% of my H50's life and it didn't cause any problems.


Agreed. I had my H70 mounted like that for a while and it was OK. I also have an H50 mounted like that and it's working fine. You can hear some pump noise on it sometimes (a buzzing noise) but it's working fine.

Also, when Corsair did the H70 build at the Corsair website they placed the barbs on top. Still, I would recommend on the bottom if they will fit that way without any problems. The theory others have mentioned regarding where any air in the system should be trapped is sound. I would have done it on the H50, but the hoses were not long enough to support that configuration in the case I used.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Afternoon all, been a while since I posted in this thread glad to see its still popular!
I personally still have my H50 mounted at the front in the drivebays with 2x38mm fans and 2 shrouds, Been thinking about changing it as the method I used (cable ties) to mount the rad there is a chore to redo when I clean it out. Been thinking a simple exhaust out the top with just the fans no shrouds.

What ya reckon chaps ?

I'm sure the ceadderman has some ideas!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*
> 
> Afternoon all, been a while since I posted in this thread glad to see its still popular!
> I personally still have my H50 mounted at the front in the drivebays with 2x38mm fans and 2 shrouds, Been thinking about changing it as the method I used (cable ties) to mount the rad there is a chore to redo when I clean it out. Been thinking a simple exhaust out the top with just the fans no shrouds.
> 
> What ya reckon chaps ?
> 
> I'm sure the ceadderman has some ideas!


That's sound reasoning R3aCt0r M|Nd. That's why I had mine exhausting out the top was to be able to clean it and mount it back into place without much of a hassle. I will suggest that you find some Koolance fan studs to make things even easier to deal with. I have them on my 360 and lemme tell ya, it takes me less than a minute to mount the 360 back to the top of the 932. They only come in M4/6-32 so they should work very well for you. Would also suggest getting silicon gaskets to seal the fan to the Radiator body as well.

The caps are metal by the way not plastic.













You can get them in 25mm and 38mm unthreaded shanks. Meaning that you can fit a 25mm or a 38mm fan on them once in place with room to spare for the caps.

I have Phobya 7mm Decoupler shrouds and Yate Loon 20mm fans on my 25mm without much thread covered. The decouplers squish a bit and seal the space between the Radiator and the fans quite well.









I'm tellin ya Mate, had I to do it all over again I would have gotten these for the H50 kit from the very beginning. They're so awesome. They take a lot of the headaches out of the cleaning process.









**EDIT** Oh I would be remiss if I didn't let you know that the top of the 932 is not level in the interior. There is a slight lip between the plastic top and the front openings where your fan mounts to. If you put a slim body fan it WILL put a slight twist into the body that can hinder the speed of the fan during operation. It's not anything that can't be adjusted for with the caps but if you're using std fan screws you can't really compensate for it without the fan being louder than normal.









~Ceadder


----------



## RX7-2nr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would recommend the bottom. Air travels up. So I think that it's better to trap any air in the sytem at the point where it cannot travel back into the pump. With the inlet/outlet at the top of the system it's likely that air is indeed flowing through the pump. If anything running it with the tubes at the bottom is a precaution worth taking. I don't know why Corsair suggested that it should be mounted with the tubes at the top, but I think that's due more to the inexperience of the demonstrator. Considering that the H50 is a rebadged Acetek unit and Corsair didn't design or build it...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I thought the same thing. I see a lot of people with their hoses on the top. It just makes sense that if you can trap the air in the top of your radiator, you alleviate the issue of getting bubbles in your lines and pump.


----------



## lostmybandaide

i wanted to set up push/pull with my H100 but the fans are a little too thick to fit inside my Cooler Master 690II advanced. the fans under Motherboard got in the way of the fans that would go under the radiator. I currently have 2 intake fans on top of the radiator. I Did ordered some Slim Case fans from newegg last night to finish my push/pull set up.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185137


----------



## Ceadderman

24.03 CFM?!?









Not even sure they're worth using bro. I know from experience that the better the CFM pushed/pulled through the Radiator the better the cooling capability of the H50.

Now, if the H100 has a low FPI(Fin per Inch) rating then those should work very well. Do they have a larger CFM rated fan in that thickness? If so that's what I would be looking for.









Aha found it. Here you go the fan you would likely need. ~45CFM and only 37dB. My Yates are running 62cfm (+/- 10%) at max but I keep them at 75% voltage.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185139

Anyway hope you can turn those other ones back if you've already ordered.









~Ceadder


----------



## ra_27

the H100 is $159 and the H80 is H$135 so I think I can find the $24 to get the H100 if I end up going this way.

I just have to see how my final build cost is going to be if I have it I will get it!

I may mean I go for a 2nd choose case to get it instead of my 1st being a Graphite 600T White( got a black one and happy with it) or 2nd being the a Carbide 500R White.

both from what I can tell will hold the H100 well.


----------



## simonfredette

look into a switch 810 also , its huge but then you wouldnt have to change case again when you jump from hydro-series to water-cooling ( its inevitable )


----------



## ra_27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> look into a switch 810 also , its huge but then you wouldn't have to change case again when you jump from hydro-series to water-cooling ( its inevitable )


I not likely to move full time to a full on water-cooling set up to much work for me but I will have a lool at it anyway ans see how it is. Thanks


----------



## simonfredette

Yeah you should , its a low cost case with infinite possibilities both for air or water , depends on your needs for sure buts its good to consider.


----------



## OverClocker55

Looking good people


----------



## RX7-2nr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ra_27*
> 
> the H100 is $159 and the H80 is H$135 so I think I can find the $24 to get the H100 if I end up going this way.
> I just have to see how my final build cost is going to be if I have it I will get it!
> I may mean I go for a 2nd choose case to get it instead of my 1st being a Graphite 600T White( got a black one and happy with it) or 2nd being the a Carbide 500R White.
> both from what I can tell will hold the H100 well.


if your case can fit the H100, definitely go with that one. Ive seen h80 reviews, and a number of them are very unflattering. The double thick radiator of the h80 just doesnt make that much of a difference over the H60. Sure its a couple degrees cooler than the h60, but the H100 takes the cake by quite a bit and the price difference is negligible.


----------



## ra_27

just seen a great H100 videos with the 600T case at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cmdKu5i2ZB8&feature=player_embedded


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's sound reasoning R3aCt0r M|Nd. That's why I had mine exhausting out the top was to be able to clean it and mount it back into place without much of a hassle. I will suggest that you find some Koolance fan studs to make things even easier to deal with. I have them on my 360 and lemme tell ya, it takes me less than a minute to mount the 360 back to the top of the 932. They only come in M4/6-32 so they should work very well for you. Would also suggest getting silicon gaskets to seal the fan to the Radiator body as well.
> The caps are metal by the way not plastic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can get them in 25mm and 38mm unthreaded shanks. Meaning that you can fit a 25mm or a 38mm fan on them once in place with room to spare for the caps.
> I have Phobya 7mm Decoupler shrouds and Yate Loon 20mm fans on my 25mm without much thread covered. The decouplers squish a bit and seal the space between the Radiator and the fans quite well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm tellin ya Mate, had I to do it all over again I would have gotten these for the H50 kit from the very beginning. They're so awesome. They take a lot of the headaches out of the cleaning process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> **EDIT** Oh I would be remiss if I didn't let you know that the top of the 932 is not level in the interior. There is a slight lip between the plastic top and the front openings where your fan mounts to. If you put a slim body fan it WILL put a slight twist into the body that can hinder the speed of the fan during operation. It's not anything that can't be adjusted for with the caps but if you're using std fan screws you can't really compensate for it without the fan being louder than normal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You sar are the Dogs Bollox! Will defo look into the koolance studs.
For the time being I'm assuming then that you feel an exhaust out the top for the H50 is still going to be giving me some decent temps ? Of course with the fresh clean out its going to be lower than my current setup and it has been rather Humid here in jolly old wet england....
I'm thinking no shrouds exhaust, just simply one San ace on the inside of my case attached to the rad, another on the outside of the case. The case mesh isn't going to be a problem due to the 99CFM these bad boys have.

http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=75_169&products_id=1353

But of course due to the high CFM, My current intake shrouded setup in the drivebay sucks in sooo much bleedin dust its almost not manageable. My pc realistically needs to be cleaned out probably every 2 weeks at this rate!

Let me know what your thoughts are guys perhaps keeping the shrouds on would be better but its alot of weight to suspend from the top of my case and clearance could be an issue with that extra length from the shrouds I may not even have the space for my 120mm x 38mm fans due to the Ram.

Cheers!

EDIT:
Just had a proper look at the current state of my dust issue and man... It's bad and the worse thing is Ive run out of compressed air!
So I'm thinking its going to be a Hoover job! I've never used my vaccum cleaner to clean any of my pc's but it seems I have no choice in this case.
Surely if I only use the plastic nozzle attachment, all power off etc it should be fine aye ?


----------



## Ceadderman

I think that mine was ~2c difference between Intake and Exhaust.









Get yourself a soft bristle paint brush. In Exhaust it's really all I need to keep the dust bunnies at bay.









Oh and with those Koolance mounting studs make sure they don't pinch into your fins. I don't have to worry about it on my 360 cause it has stops under each opening but the H50 doesn't have that luxury.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 24.03 CFM?!?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not even sure they're worth using bro. I know from experience that the better the CFM pushed/pulled through the Radiator the better the cooling capability of the H50.
> Now, if the H100 has a low FPI(Fin per Inch) rating then those should work very well. Do they have a larger CFM rated fan in that thickness? If so that's what I would be looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aha found it. Here you go the fan you would likely need. ~45CFM and only 37dB. My Yates are running 62cfm (+/- 10%) at max but I keep them at 75% voltage.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185139
> Anyway hope you can turn those other ones back if you've already ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Really? Those fans look 100% absolutely useless for an H100 to me. I bet they have like zero static pressure. He's be better off cutting a fan shape from a piece of cardboard and using that. Those slim fans are just garbage for a rad. I bet if a full test was done between a stock H100 setup and one using these fans in addition to the stock fans, the temp difference wouldn't even be measurable. Waste of money.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> look into a switch 810 also , its huge but then you wouldnt have to change case again when you jump from hydro-series to water-cooling ( its inevitable )


Is not.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> if your case can fit the H100, definitely go with that one. Ive seen h80 reviews, and a number of them are very unflattering. The double thick radiator of the h80 just doesnt make that much of a difference over the H60. Sure its a couple degrees cooler than the h60, but the H100 takes the cake by quite a bit and the price difference is negligible.


The reviews I have seen of the H80 all show it to be within a couple of degrees of the H100.

http://www.neoseeker.com/Articles/Hardware/Reviews/Corsair_Hydro_H80/4.html

That one shows it out performing the H60 by 6c.

http://www.hardwareheaven.com/reviews/1278/pg6/corsair-h100-liquid-cpu-cooler-vs-h80-and-antec-920-review-thermal-acoustic-performance.html

There's another one showing the H80 to be within 1-2c of the H100.

I really don't know where people come up with some of this stuff. A simple 30 second Google search comes up with the correct answers.

In short, as I've said before in this thread, use whichever fits your case the best. The performance difference between the H100 and H80 is almost nothing.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah I wouldn't personally get them Merg, but if he's gonna go that route those are the ones I'd get. Not all slim fans are dog poo for SP. My 20mm Yates are damned good.









Hell if he has the room for em I would suggest those instead.









~Ceadder


----------



## YangerD

Guys, I'm looking to pick up a H100 along with 4 SP120 fans for a push pull set-up. The question I have is should I set up to exhaust air out the top of bring in air from the top of the case? Also should I go for the quiet edition or high performance edition?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YangerD*
> 
> Guys, I'm looking to pick up a H100 along with 4 SP120 fans for a push pull set-up. The question I have is should I set up to exhaust air out the top of bring in air from the top of the case? Also should I go for the quiet edition or high performance edition?


I put my H50 in exhaust and it ran great teamps. My lapped 955BE ran ~40c under Load. The difference between Intake and Exhaust is ~2c between the two for the H50 in the front fan slot of my 932. It might increase to between ~3-4c with an H100 but then you have to ask yourself how much dust are you gonna be sucking in at the top. I get quite a bit of dust on top of my Exhausted 360 setup as it is. I don't even want to imagine how often I'd have to clean the top if it were Intake and how often I'd be under the hood clearing dust from the top of my Radiator.









~Ceadder


----------



## ra_27

YangerD, I would exhaust air out the top of bring in air from the top of the case.


----------



## antonis21

corsair h80


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I really don't know where people come up with some of this stuff. A simple 30 second Google search comes up with the correct answers.
> In short, as I've said before in this thread, use whichever fits your case the best. The performance difference between the H100 and H80 is almost nothing.


Mergatroid ... rescuing the integrity of this thread once again








I might also add for the average OC'er you will more than likely be able to run your H100 on the "Low" setting for your 24/7 overclocks, signifigantly reducing the fan noise factor ... I don't know if that would be the case with the H80? As Merg and many others have repeatedly said ... if your case will accept the H100 it is a "No-Brainer" over the H80








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YangerD*
> 
> Guys, I'm looking to pick up a H100 along with 4 SP120 fans for a push pull set-up. The question I have is should I set up to exhaust air out the top of bring in air from the top of the case? Also should I go for the quiet edition or high performance edition?


I don't think you'll find a single H100 owner in this thread that isn't running their H100 in an exhaust configuration, with the proper case ventilation setup. In my HAF922 I do have an additional high CFM 120mm front intake fan supplying plenty of cool/fresh air to the H100.
DO NOT even consider the SP "Quiet Edition" fans if you want your H100 performing as it should. Their low static pressure 1.29 mm/H2O vs 3.1 mm/H2O for the SP/HP's vs stock Fan Static Pressure. 1.6 - 7.7mm/H20 Doesn't measure up and the High Performance kit does come with voltage reducing adaptors for less RPM/noise operation ...
*Check* THIS out ... although he won't call out certain manufacturers directly, it looks like Noctua and others have been "Fudging" on their fan specs! Corsair's rep just grows n grows









If noise is a concern the Corsair SP120 "HP" does come with voltage step-down adapters for quieter operation!



Click here to download all the graphs: http://www.linustechtips.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Corsair-Fans.rar

Finally on a personal note, before you even invest $60 in a push/pull (4) SP120/HP's ... I'd try the stock H100 fans in an exhaust/push config ...
Granted your BE965 put's out more heat when overclocked than the comparable Intel chip (I use to have one) ... BUT you might be surprised as I was at the H100's stock performance/noise abilities


----------



## phillyd

I'll probably be joining in like 8 weeks, I'm getting an H100 to cool a 2500k in a LAN build in a bitfenix prodigy. i plan to use Corsair Air series quiet fans with it.


----------



## magicmike

Just installed an H100 when I swapped cases to a Phantom 410, I haven't had a chance to snap any pictures yet so i'll come back when I get some.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magicmike*
> 
> Just installed an H100 when I swapped cases to a Phantom 410, I haven't had a chance to snap any pictures yet so i'll come back when I get some.


make sure you post some in the 410 club too and the phantom owner's group on FB if you have one.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Mergatroid ... rescuing the integrity of this thread once again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might also add for the average OC'er you will more than likely be able to run your H100 on the "Low" setting for your 24/7 overclocks, signifigantly reducing the fan noise factor ... I don't know if that would be the case with the H80? As Merg and many others have repeatedly said ... if your case will accept the H100 it is a "No-Brainer" over the H80
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think you'll find a single H100 owner in this thread that isn't running their H100 in an exhaust configuration, with the proper case ventilation setup. In my HAF922 I do have an additional high CFM 120mm front intake fan supplying plenty of cool/fresh air to the H100.
> DO NOT even consider the SP "Quiet Edition" fans if you want your H100 performing as it should. Their low static pressure 1.29 mm/H2O vs 3.1 mm/H2O for the SP/HP's vs stock Fan Static Pressure. 1.6 - 7.7mm/H20 Doesn't measure up and the High Performance kit does come with voltage reducing adaptors for less RPM/noise operation ...
> *Check* THIS out ... although he won't call out certain manufacturers directly, it looks like Noctua and others have been "Fudging" on their fan specs! Corsair's rep just grows n grows
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If noise is a concern the Corsair SP120 "HP" does come with voltage step-down adapters for quieter operation!
> 
> Click here to download all the graphs: http://www.linustechtips.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Corsair-Fans.rar
> Finally on a personal note, before you even invest $60 in a push/pull (4) SP120/HP's ... I'd try the stock H100 fans in an exhaust/push config ...
> Granted your BE965 put's out more heat when overclocked than the comparable Intel chip (I use to have one) ... BUT you might be surprised as I was at the H100's stock performance/noise abilities


http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?products_id=1353

try out 2 of these and ure golden! Not that loud at all!!


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I'll probably be joining in like 8 weeks, I'm getting an H100 to cool a 2500k in a LAN build in a bitfenix prodigy. i plan to use Corsair Air series quiet fans with it.


That looks like an awesome Lan Box (pretty new on the market) ... looking forward to your build pics / mounting position of the H100? no optical drive? or relocation of? Not sure why you'd go with the quiet series fans though? It is a Lan Box afterall, cooling is always a challenge AND I can't remember any LanParty that kept it under 85 decibels at any point in the festivities LoL










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*
> 
> http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?products_id=1353
> try out 2 of these and ure golden! Not that loud at all!!


Uhhh ... my setup works great OC/noise/performance wise ... AND I might add the fans linked above may be very quiet but they are to thick (38mm







) to work in a HAF922 without major mods ... I also have my doubts w/regard to their "static pressure" performance ...


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> That looks like an awesome Lan Box (pretty new on the market) ... looking forward to your build pics / mounting position of the H100? no optical drive? or relocation of? Not sure why you'd go with the quiet series fans though? It is a Lan Box afterall, cooling is always a challenge AND I can't remember any LanParty that kept it under 85 decibels at any point in the festivities LoL


no optical drive, and with that mobo im not gonna need super cooling to handle 4.5-4.5GHz. I will be taking it to friends' houses and such too, so the low noise would be nice. I'm really considering doing a right side window mod.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> no optical drive, and with that mobo im not gonna need super cooling to handle *4.5-4.5GHz*. I will be taking it to friends' houses and such too, so the low noise would be nice. I'm really considering doing a right side window mod.


4.5-4.5 is pretty rough lol , but your right and I cant stand overly noisy pc's , regardless of headsets or ambient noise .. its just something there that could be better for a few more bucks


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Cleaned out the system, changed to exhaust out the top but due to the size of the fans I had to mount one of them on the outside of the case and DAMN! It's loud too loud going to have to rethink this setup. Front P/P intake is creating too much dust! Love the HAF 932 but the lack of dust filters is killing me! Bloody pain Ive gotta switch back just didnt realise how loud these fans were when on the outside of the case....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*
> 
> Cleaned out the system, changed to exhaust out the top but due to the size of the fans I had to mount one of them on the outside of the case and DAMN! It's loud too loud going to have to rethink this setup. Front P/P intake is creating too much dust! Love the HAF 932 but the lack of dust filters is killing me! Bloody pain Ive gotta switch back just didnt realise how loud these fans were when on the outside of the case....










How many bays are you using for devices? I could fit my entire P/P setup in the top and just barely clear the 3rd where I had my ODD device. That was 2 working 25mm fans and 1 25mm shroud modification. Look into the Koolance fan mounting kits for your P/P setup. Should be able to fit at least two 25mm fans with any of the Radiators so long as you don't have a shroud into the top two bays. I used 6-32 screws with hex nuts as caps for the interior setup. Snapped the heads off after the locking nut on each of them.









~Ceadder


----------



## crue3

this is so nice


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How many bays are you using for devices? I could fit my entire P/P setup in the top and just barely clear the 3rd where I had my ODD device. That was 2 working 25mm fans and 1 25mm shroud modification. Look into the Koolance fan mounting kits for your P/P setup. Should be able to fit at least two 25mm fans with any of the Radiators so long as you don't have a shroud into the top two bays. I used 6-32 screws with hex nuts as caps for the interior setup. Snapped the heads off after the locking nut on each of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Aye thats where I had it before this time round I'm going to have it lower, literally right above the front 140mm fan in P/P intake, I did have 2 shrouds on the setup, is it better to just have one shroud and if so on which side of the rad ?
5 fans intake including the P/P H50 and 2 fans exhaust rear and top. Should be about right for positive static pressure.
Going to have to raid the Wife's tights and make me some dust filters!!

That'l put me in her good books, Bwahaha!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How many bays are you using for devices? I could fit my entire P/P setup in the top and just barely clear the 3rd where I had my ODD device. That was 2 working 25mm fans and 1 25mm shroud modification. Look into the Koolance fan mounting kits for your P/P setup. Should be able to fit at least two 25mm fans with any of the Radiators so long as you don't have a shroud into the top two bays. I used 6-32 screws with hex nuts as caps for the interior setup. Snapped the heads off after the locking nut on each of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aye thats where I had it before this time round I'm going to have it lower, literally right above the front 140mm fan in P/P intake, I did have 2 shrouds on the setup, is it better to just have one shroud and if so on which side of the rad ?
> 5 fans intake including the P/P H50 and 2 fans exhaust rear and top. Should be about right for positive static pressure.
> Going to have to raid the Wife's tights and make me some dust filters!!
> 
> That'l put me in her good books, Bwahaha!
Click to expand...

Put the shroud on the Pusher side. Some people have it on both and swear by it but I'm not sure whether there is a physical or perceived difference considering the pull fan doesn't really need the space to draw air through the way the Push fan needs the space to cover more of the cooling surface. I'm sure it helps but I doubt that the difference is enough to offset the loss of space in the case.









You should definitely look into DEMCiFlex filters though, cause I have them in my case and they really do a bang up job controlling dust.









~Ceadder


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Put the shroud on the Pusher side. Some people have it on both and swear by it but I'm not sure whether there is a physical or perceived difference considering the pull fan doesn't really need the space to draw air through the way the Push fan needs the space to cover more of the cooling surface. I'm sure it helps but I doubt that the difference is enough to offset the loss of space in the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should definitely look into DEMCiFlex filters though, cause I have them in my case and they really do a bang up job controlling dust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Hehe, I agree with this. I don't see the benefits of both sides shrouded.


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Ok great stuff! Will put 1 shroud on the front fan.

+rep ceadder

Cheers!


----------



## alrgeez

hey guys, quick question. going to be re-seating my h100. what is the recommended thermal paste that i should use? i have some IC Diamond on hand, should i just use that?


----------



## Mergatroid

Here's a little info on shrouds:

http://martinsliquidlab.i4memory.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html

Not sure about some of the results though, the seem a little off from what I've seen and heard from other sources, but overall it's not bad.

Custom Filters:

http://www.demciflex.com/

If you patron frozencpu.com they have some generic filters and some of the case sets.

http://www.frozencpu.com/search.html?mv_profile=keyword_search&mv_session_id=uzt2whWP&searchspec=demciflex&go.x=12&go.y=11


----------



## R3aCt0r M|Nd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alrgeez*
> 
> hey guys, quick question. going to be re-seating my h100. what is the recommended thermal paste that i should use? i have some IC Diamond on hand, should i just use that?


I use Shin-etsu, pretty good stuff! Just changed back to front intake P/P with shroud and Idling @ 38/33/34/33 Max Load 60/55/56/56 under prime95 @ 4009mhz OC.
When all cleaned out this Setup never fails to impress me!


----------



## alrgeez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*
> 
> I use Shin-etsu, pretty good stuff! Just changed back to front intake P/P with shroud and Idling @ 38/33/34/33 Max Load 60/55/56/56 under prime95 @ 4009mhz OC.
> When all cleaned out this Setup never fails to impress me!


is this the same stuff?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835150080


----------



## simonfredette

I use arctic but theres a cure time and that sucks , there are plenty of good kinds out there though , I find application method more important than the brand ( ive seen the reviews and there is a good diff between brands I know but .. ) the biggest problem I find is people putting too much or too little . There are a couple methods commonly used like the rice grain where you put a dab the size of a cooked piece of rice in the middle , some people prefer a thin line down the middle and the guy from dazmode.com spreads it thin with a credit card ( I dont suggest this one )


----------



## dboythagr8

I have H100, and in thinking of getting 2 more fans for push pull. Only thing is those screws..what length of screws do I need for two more fans?

Sent from my EVO 4G using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> I have H100, and in thinking of getting 2 more fans for push pull. Only thing is those screws..what length of screws do I need for two more fans?
> Sent from my EVO 4G using Tapatalk 2


6/32 1.25"
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alrgeez*
> 
> is this the same stuff?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835150080


That is some of the best TIM available. The G751 is the best Shin-Etsu TIM, ranked the same as the AS5 only it has no cure time while the AS5 takes a few days to get the best results. I use Arctic Silver 5 too since it's available locally and the cure time doesn't bother me. The Diamond TIM you mentioned would likely be OK in a pinch.

Here's a roundup for ya:

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62


----------



## RX7-2nr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> The reviews I have seen of the H80 all show it to be within a couple of degrees of the H100.
> http://www.neoseeker.com/Articles/Hardware/Reviews/Corsair_Hydro_H80/4.html
> That one shows it out performing the H60 by 6c.
> http://www.hardwareheaven.com/reviews/1278/pg6/corsair-h100-liquid-cpu-cooler-vs-h80-and-antec-920-review-thermal-acoustic-performance.html
> There's another one showing the H80 to be within 1-2c of the H100.
> I really don't know where people come up with some of this stuff. A simple 30 second Google search comes up with the correct answers.
> In short, as I've said before in this thread, use whichever fits your case the best. The performance difference between the H100 and H80 is almost nothing.


Wouldnt you know, but there are more than just 2 reviews out there. Ive seen a few where the gap between the H80 and the H100 was significant. They were close on a stock speed setting, but when they cranked up the overclock and started putting more heat in that rad, the H100 pulled ahead.

YMMV, but Ive seen a couple reviews like that.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alrgeez*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *R3aCt0r M|Nd*
> 
> I use Shin-etsu, pretty good stuff! Just changed back to front intake P/P with shroud and Idling @ 38/33/34/33 Max Load 60/55/56/56 under prime95 @ 4009mhz OC.
> When all cleaned out this Setup never fails to impress me!
> 
> 
> 
> is this the same stuff?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835150080
Click to expand...

Yup.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alrgeez*
> 
> is this the same stuff?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835150080
> 
> 
> 
> That is some of the best TIM available. The G751 is the best Shin-Etsu TIM, ranked the same as the AS5 only it has no cure time while the AS5 takes a few days to get the best results. I use Arctic Silver 5 too since it's available locally and the cure time doesn't bother me. The Diamond TIM you mentioned would likely be OK in a pinch.
> 
> Here's a roundup for ya:
> 
> http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62
Click to expand...

Can't beat a good no tom foolery review like that. Same as the one in my sig.









G751 is the shiz! Considering it's the same stuff that comes pre-applied to the Hydro series it's the way to go. Just don't use as much. They spread it on pretty thick. thumb:


----------



## kizwan

^^ +1
I use G751 too. I always have a tube or two in case I need them. Latest I just re-applied TIM on my GPU with G751. Also G751 does work great if heatsink & CPU heatcap have very poor contact while the other TIM I tried failed.

Anyone use their H100 at high setting (3 bar) 24/7? Do you see any improvement in temp compared to medium?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> Wouldnt you know, but there are more than just 2 reviews out there. Ive seen a few where the gap between the H80 and the H100 was significant. They were close on a stock speed setting, but when they cranked up the overclock and started putting more heat in that rad, the H100 pulled ahead.
> YMMV, but Ive seen a couple reviews like that.


*"YMMV"* ... is the key here, as so much depends on many other factors! How high is your overclock? What is the TDP of the chip to begin with? How well is your case ventilated? Are your GPU(s) overclocked and dumping loads of heat into the case? What are your consistent ambients?

I think "Merg" would agree that there is some difference in performance between the H80/H100 especially at "Low" fan setings, and may be more pronounced with high heat chips like the older AMD's (BE965/1100T) or Intel 980/990x's ... *BUT you need to post links* or personally verify your claims







 ... *HERE* is another nice review backing up what we claim, but again it is with the all to common 2600K chip







...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Anyone use their H100 at high setting (3 bar) 24/7? Do you see any improvement in temp compared to medium?


Personally for 24/7 clocks and everyday use NO ... Running IBT and other benches maybe a 2-3c difference in extreme conditions ... see above link for more confirmation.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> I have H100, and in thinking of getting 2 more fans for push pull.


Taking in my above comment's, I'd be very interested to see if you gain at most more than 2-3c improvement with a push/pull top exhaust setup. I'm not sure how much heat that 690 leaks into the case? ... Awesome card wish I could afford one (or TWO)







... back in the day I had 2 x 295GTX's Quad SLI's.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Personally for 24/7 clocks and everyday use NO ... Running IBT and other benches maybe a 2-3c difference in extreme conditions ... see above link for more confirmation.


Thanks. So, your H100 is running at medium setting/speed 24/7? You're right, between ambient 32C & 34C/36C, the difference of CPU temp is only 2C.

Anyone else think running H100 at high speed 24/7 is not good idea?


----------



## lostmybandaide

Finally finish my Push/pull set up on my H100 in a Cooler Master 690 advanced II case. Had to resort to some slim fan from scythe. running a cool 18C on my CPU


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> Wouldnt you know, but there are more than just 2 reviews out there. Ive seen a few where the gap between the H80 and the H100 was significant. They were close on a stock speed setting, but when they cranked up the overclock and started putting more heat in that rad, the H100 pulled ahead.
> YMMV, but Ive seen a couple reviews like that.


How about a few links then? As I mentioned, it took me 30 seconds to find two reviews supporting the small difference between the H80 and H100. Also, that doesn't explain anyone claiming that the H80 barely outperforms the H60.

Of course, there are tons of reviews out there. You simply can't trust them all. Anyone can do a review and make some graphs. So, I'm not denying you could be right, but all the data I've seen says not.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> ...
> 
> Anyone use their H100 at high setting (3 bar) 24/7? Do you see any improvement in temp compared to medium?


Unfortunately I use my mobo to control my H100 fans so I can't help you out there. You should see some difference though. Almost every review I have seen shows some difference between the three settings.

That's one of the reasons I prefer using my mobo to control the fans. I can keep an eye on the fan speeds as well as the temp, and the system will have better control over the RPM range. It really makes me a sad panda that Corsair didn't make the stock fans PWM.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Thanks. So, your H100 is running at medium setting/speed 24/7? You're right, between ambient 32C & 34C/36C, the difference of CPU temp is only 2C.
> Anyone else think running H100 at high speed 24/7 is not good idea?


Lots of people run their fans on high. Some people run coolers with fans connected direct to molex. That's not my cup of tea. I don't see why we should put up with more noise even if the computer is idling. When I first got the H100 I used the block on the medium setting. Now I'm much happier with PWM even though my fans don't perform as well as the stock fans at max RPM.


----------



## RX7-2nr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> *"YMMV"* ... is the key here, as so much depends on many other factors! How high is your overclock? What is the TDP of the chip to begin with? How well is your case ventilated? Are your GPU(s) overclocked and dumping loads of heat into the case? What are your consistent ambients?
> I think "Merg" would agree that there is some difference in performance between the H80/H100 especially at "Low" fan setings, and may be more pronounced with high heat chips like the older AMD's (BE965/1100T) or Intel 980/990x's ... *BUT you need to post links* or personally verify your claims
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... *HERE* is another nice review backing up what we claim, but again it is with the all to common 2600K chip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> Personally for 24/7 clocks and everyday use NO ... Running IBT and other benches maybe a 2-3c difference in extreme conditions ... see above link for more confirmation.
> Taking in my above comment's, I'd be very interested to see if you gain at most more than 2-3c improvement with a push/pull top exhaust setup. I'm not sure how much heat that 690 leaks into the case? ... Awesome card wish I could afford one (or TWO)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... back in the day I had 2 x 295GTX's Quad SLI's.












H100 on low (completely silent with the right fans) is equal to H80 on medium. H100 on med is equal to H80 on high, H100 wins. this is all that I said. I said if you have the space in your case, get the h100. that statement still stands. it beats the H100. the price is almost the same between the H80/H100- but the H100 is better in all regards (assuming you have the space). the H60 is can be bought for half the price of either of them.

if you are trying to point out the fact that its only by a few degrees, this is always the case. the difference from the mighty noctua d14 and other so called "crappy coolers" is still only a few degrees. its always a matter of a few degrees. these guys that argue non-stop about the differences of thermal pastes argue about _a tenth of a degree difference._


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Lots of people run their fans on high. Some people run coolers with fans connected direct to molex. That's not my cup of tea. I don't see why we should put up with more noise even if the computer is idling. When I first got the H100 I used the block on the medium setting. Now I'm much happier with PWM even though my fans don't perform as well as the stock fans at max RPM.


Thanks. I'll keep at medium. Temp at high load still good even at 34C ambient, so I don't think I need to use high speed.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> *"YMMV"* ... is the key here, as so much depends on many other factors! How high is your overclock? What is the TDP of the chip to begin with? How well is your case ventilated? Are your GPU(s) overclocked and dumping loads of heat into the case? What are your consistent ambients?
> I think "Merg" would agree that there is some difference in performance between the H80/H100 especially at "Low" fan setings, and may be more pronounced with high heat chips like the older AMD's (BE965/1100T) or Intel 980/990x's ... *BUT you need to post links* or personally verify your claims
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... *HERE* is another nice review backing up what we claim, but again it is with the all to common 2600K chip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> Personally for 24/7 clocks and everyday use NO ... Running IBT and other benches maybe a 2-3c difference in extreme conditions ... see above link for more confirmation.
> Taking in my above comment's, I'd be very interested to see if you gain at most more than 2-3c improvement with a push/pull top exhaust setup. I'm not sure how much heat that 690 leaks into the case? ... Awesome card wish I could afford one (or TWO)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... back in the day I had 2 x 295GTX's Quad SLI's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> H100 on low (completely silent with the right fans) is equal to H80 on medium. H100 on med is equal to H80 on high, H100 wins. this is all that I said. I said if you have the space in your case, get the h100. that statement still stands. it beats the H100. the price is almost the same between the H80/H100- but the H100 is better in all regards (assuming you have the space). the H60 is can be bought for half the price of either of them.
> 
> if you are trying to point out the fact that its only by a few degrees, this is always the case. the difference from the mighty noctua d14 and other so called "crappy coolers" is still only a few degrees. *its always a matter of a few degrees. these guys that argue non-stop about the differences of thermal pastes argue about a tenth of a degree difference.*
Click to expand...

It's not quite as simple as all that Mate. There are other things to consider here as well.

Spreadability, price and in the case of AS5 versus G751, burn in time.

Price is squarely in AS5's favor.

From experienece I would say that everything else is squarely in G751's favor. Temps included. But as you stated they're within less that 1*c difference of each other so if you wish to spend 200h or longer burning it in AS5 may be what you want.

Personally, since G751 spreads quite well with nothing more than the weight of the coolers I use, I stick with that although the price per .5g is completely insane.









~Ceadder


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Thanks. So, your H100 is running at medium setting/speed 24/7? You're right, between ambient 32C & 34C/36C, the difference of CPU temp is only 2C.
> Anyone else think running H100 at high speed 24/7 is not good idea?


My "bastardized push/pull/exhaust setup actually performs quite well on the "Low" settings for "most" situations, to quote the *"YMMV"* comments I made earlier. AND I whole-heartedly agree w/Merg's comments below ... there's a trade off or a "diminishing returns" scenario depending on personal preference in the performance vs Noise debate which may never be settled just like Obama's "Socialism" vs Romney's "Capitalism" arguement








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Lots of people run their fans on high. Some people run coolers with fans connected direct to molex. That's not my cup of tea. I don't see why we should put up with more noise even if the computer is idling. When I first got the H100 I used the block on the medium setting. Now I'm much happier with PWM even though my fans don't perform as well as the stock fans at max RPM.


I also really wished the stock H100 fans were PWM but maybe one of the reasons they weren't was because upon initial release Corsair was really pushing their unique?, but IMO severly overpriced "Link" cooling controller?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> If you are trying to point out the fact that its only by a few degrees, this is always the case.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> How about a few links then? As I mentioned, it took me 30 seconds to find two reviews supporting the small difference between the H80 and H100. Also, that doesn't explain anyone claiming that the H80 barely outperforms the H60..
Click to expand...

Whooa Partner ... this argument is bordering absurd







... I only posted that link to try and help you out ... The facts are there, read my posts more carefully *"YMMV"* ... What set Merg off was your statement that the H60 and H80 had similar performance characteristics ... and that could be true if your running a Non K 2500 Not overclocked in a Dell case ... but you didn't say that or post links accentuating such ... *"YMMV"*


----------



## RX7-2nr

forget the H60 FFS. this is getting absurd, and its because you are focusing on one little part of the argument and reading WAY too much into it.

the guy didnt even ask about the H60. forget I said anything whatsoever about the H60. my whole point was that he should go with the H100 if he could because it going to give the lowest temps.


----------



## phillyd

anyone tested an H100 with Corsair Air SP performance fans in push/pull?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> H100 on low (completely silent with the right fans) is equal to H80 on medium. H100 on med is equal to H80 on high, H100 wins. this is all that I said. I said if you have the space in your case, get the h100. that statement still stands. it beats the H100. the price is almost the same between the H80/H100- but the H100 is better in all regards (assuming you have the space). the H60 is can be bought for half the price of either of them.
> if you are trying to point out the fact that its only by a few degrees, this is always the case. the difference from the mighty noctua d14 and other so called "crappy coolers" is still only a few degrees. its always a matter of a few degrees. these guys that argue non-stop about the differences of thermal pastes argue about _a tenth of a degree difference._


By your own chart:

H100 High: 48.6
H80 High: 51.9

51.9 - 48.6 = 3.3c, which is a small difference. That's by your chart, which I have no idea where it came from. _Other reviews have gotten less of a difference_. In fact, the case you put the coolers in could account for a degree or two as well, since not all cases provide the best airflow for both sizes of cooler. Hell, even just changing from exhaust to intake on the H80 would make as much of a difference, or changing the type of fan you use (which many people do).

As I stated to begin with, a person should use which ever cooler fits the best in their case since both coolers perform so closely. Also note that by your own chart, the H60 is outperformed by the H80 on high by about 5c. Still, that's not all that much (the H60 is still a good cooler), but it's not better than the H80. I'm only considering maximum performance here. And I also point out again that there are many other reviews out there (I provided links to two of them) that place the H80 closer to the H100 than your chart does, but again only by a degree, give or take.

Personally, I have never argued over a 10th of a degree, or even one or two or three degrees. In my opinion, that much of a difference is basically no difference. Perhaps it may make a difference to someone pushing their CPU right to the edge.

As I said in the first place. The H60 does not outperform the H80, and the H80 and H100 are so close in performance that IMO it's best to use whichever fits your case (and budget) the best. The H80 is basically $20 less than the H100. If you're interested in 1-3c for $20, and you have the space, then fine. I see no problem with the H100 (in fact, I bought one the day they became available). However, if 1-3c is not worth $20 to you, or the H100 won't fit in your case then rest assured that if you go with an H80 you've still made a good choice. Or, if the H100 won't fit in your case, the H80 will still do a great job. If 5C is no big deal, then by all means go with the H60. It's still a good choice.


----------



## RX7-2nr

Ahh, so as long as we are talking about H100 vs H80, 3.3 degrees is not that much. I get it now.








also- I never said the H60 outperformed anything.
This entire debate is ******ed. You cant argue that 3.3 degrees is just not that much, but 5 is a lot. If 5 is a lot, 3.3 is still quite sizable. The comparisons are completely relevant to each other.


----------



## TomcatV

Both of you [Mergatroid/RX7-2nr] are obviously experienced builders with a wealth of knowledge willing to help others







And healthy debates is what keeps everyone informed and on top of their game! Both of you had very valid points ... BUT both of you IMO made at best, very dubious statements









1) RX7-2nr ... page 2070 / post #20691
*"The double thick radiator of the h80 just doesnt make that much of a difference over the H60".
*

Which for good reason got Mergatroid excited and caused me to post this ...

*"YMMV"* ... is the key here, as so much depends on many other factors! How high is your overclock? What is the TDP of the chip to begin with? How well is your case ventilated? What kind of fans are you using? Are your GPU(s) overclocked and dumping loads of heat into the case? What are your consistent ambients?... And most importantly (especially for me) how much noise are you willing to put up with for improved performance?

Then surprisingly Mergatroid posted this ...
Mergatroid ... page 2070 / post #20695
*"The performance difference between the H100 and H80 is almost nothing."*

Which caused me to post the link [HERE] where RX7 got the graph from ... AnandTech is a pretty reliable source, and for me is why I chose the H100 over the H80 ... Much less noise for the same or Better temp performance, which RX7 clearly points out









All in all a healthy robust debate ... But now it's time for you two to (LoL) to "Kiss and make up?"









@PihillyD... I have not seen any credible info on the H100 w/push/pull Corsair Air SP/120 Performance setup yet. I know they are out there so please post when you find some and I'll do the same


----------



## nyk20z3

I filled out the form to join and here is a pic of my set up -

H100 with 2 SP120 High Performance High Static Pressure Fans Mounted To It.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> Ahh, so as long as we are talking about H100 vs H80, 3.3 degrees is not that much. I get it now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also- I never said the H60 outperformed anything.
> This entire debate is ******ed. You cant argue that 3.3 degrees is just not that much, but 5 is a lot. If 5 is a lot, 3.3 is still quite sizable. The comparisons are completely relevant to each other.


3c is much easier to make up for just by arrangement of fans in a case over 5c. Also, as I stated about three times, other reviews have shown the difference to be less. I'm not going by just one review.

For example, an H80 used as Intake may perfectly match an H100 used as Exhaust. I will always go back to my original statement, use whichever cooler fits your case the best (which I've always said). The performance difference between the two coolers is too small to worry about.


----------



## FallenAngelBK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> 3c is much easier to make up for just by arrangement of fans in a case over 5c. Also, as I stated about three times, other reviews have shown the difference to be less.


Rearrange your fans and bam its only 2 degrees more.


----------



## phillyd

do you guys think an H80 could handle a 3570k at 4.6GHz in push/pull with the Air SP Performance Edition fans?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> do you guys think an H80 could handle a 3570k at 4.6GHz in push/pull with the Air SP Performance Edition fans?


I don't see why not. Although I think this is the point where one considers a drastic mod to the CPU to keep the temps at a lower point in the spectrum.









~Ceadder


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> do you guys think an H80 could handle a 3570k at 4.6GHz in push/pull with the Air SP Performance Edition fans?
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see why not. Although I think this is the point where one considers a drastic mod to the CPU to keep the temps at a lower point in the spectrum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

i want to keep things under warranty, i almost bought a 3770k with replaced TIM
but thanks. I'm considering getting an h80 for pride and prodigy and getting a blu-ray drive


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> do you guys think an H80 could handle a 3570k at 4.6GHz in push/pull with the Air SP Performance Edition fans?
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see why not. Although I think this is the point where one considers a drastic mod to the CPU to keep the temps at a lower point in the spectrum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> i want to keep things under warranty, i almost bought a 3770k with replaced TIM
> but thanks. I'm considering getting an h80 for pride and prodigy and getting a blu-ray drive
Click to expand...

All good phillyd, just a suggestion that I would consider looking at. Obviously there are reasons not to undertake this step lightly but in my experience if your CPU is working optimally now chances are you won't have to replace it until it's time to upgrade. Obviously that isn't always the case, but I've never had a lapped CPU fail on me after Iapped it. Though it's definitely something that makes me pause a bit before the CPU hits the paper.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## phillyd

I dont think i'll be looking to overclock it that hard. I'll stop where I have to jump the voltage up stupidly


----------



## RX7-2nr

its like arguing with a brick wall that just keeps repeating itself.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> its like arguing with a brick wall that just keeps repeating itself.










What is?

~Ceadder


----------



## nerdybeat

Hey there all! Just wrapped up a minor upgrade and wire management sesh. Upgraded my H70 to H100 (yay birthday gift) and re-arranged my GPU cooler to rear exhaust. Also moved an AP-14 to the front 5.25" bay adapter. Here are some pics!! So far I am liking the CPU temps. Not a world of difference from the H70, but I wanted a cleaner look in the case and an excuse to re-wire manage.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nerdybeat*
> 
> Hey there all! Just wrapped up a minor upgrade and wire management sesh. Upgraded my H70 to H100 (yay birthday gift) and re-arranged my GPU cooler to rear exhaust. Also moved an AP-14 to the front 5.25" bay adapter. Here are some pics!! So far I am liking the CPU temps. Not a world of difference from the H70, but I wanted a cleaner look in the case and an excuse to re-wire manage.


Nice 650D you have there. That's one of my favorite cases. I also upgraded from an H70 to an H100 on my 600T. Both were used as exhaust. When I upgraded I did a complete temp test before and after, with all my case fans on low, and with them all on high. I got an average temp difference of 7c, which was a little less than I was hoping for. What temp difference did you get?


----------



## nerdybeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Nice 650D you have there. That's one of my favorite cases. I also upgraded from an H70 to an H100 on my 600T. Both were used as exhaust. When I upgraded I did a complete temp test before and after, with all my case fans on low, and with them all on high. I got an average temp difference of 7c, which was a little less than I was hoping for. What temp difference did you get?


For prime blend, I am seeing about 4-5C difference on the main cores, and on small FFTs I am seeing about 6-7C difference on the main cores. Hard to really gauge with the Gulftown CPUs, my mid cores are like 58C and main cores 68C max on small FFTs. Gaming is my main deal, and it keeps temps quite low in BF3 etc as expected.


----------



## artic

Hi everyone









On the first page the thread starter said to PM him, with common questions...but I'm a bit too shy to send him a PM









Anyway I've always used aircoolers, but I'll be buying a piledriver when it comes out and I want some good cooler to push it to around 4-5ghz.

I asked around tomshardware and everyone says bad about closed loop coolers... One guy even said the leak chance was around 20%... Can you guys give me some advice on this as I am a bit afraid of leaks after that.

Also I live in the south of spain, most of the time, and it's fairly hot during summer, today was around 38-40C, do you guys thing the H70 is a good buy or should I try and go for a H80? (I have a HAF X)


----------



## mahiv87

I bought a H80 for my new PC last month and i RMA'd it because the fan controller didnt seem to work. I followed the instructions that the CS Rep gave me to reset but nothing changed. I received my new H80 today, installed it and im having the same problem. Is it possible to get 2 defects back to back? I really dont want to have to wait another month to have this one replaced. I have both, the fan connecter and molex connecter plugged in. Should I have both plugged? I know you guys are Corsair Reps but any help is greatly appreciated.

P.S. I ran AIDA64 stress test to see if the fans would ramp up and they never did, my temps reached 70C.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *artic*
> 
> Hi everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the first page the thread starter said to PM him, with common questions...but I'm a bit too shy to send him a PM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway I've always used aircoolers, but I'll be buying a piledriver when it comes out and I want some good cooler to push it to around 4-5ghz.
> I asked around tomshardware and everyone says bad about closed loop coolers... One guy even said the leak chance was around 20%... Can you guys give me some advice on this as I am a bit afraid of leaks after that.
> Also I live in the south of spain, most of the time, and it's fairly hot during summer, today was around 38-40C, do you guys thing the H70 is a good buy or should I try and go for a H80? (I have a HAF X)


Hi. I'm not privy to the manufacturers failure rates, but most consumer goods have about a 6% failure rate. I would suppose that closed loop water coolers are no different. However, it's likely only a percentage of the failures actually leak. I'm pretty sure I can count on one hand the number of times I have seen people complaining about leaking with the Corsair coolers. In each case, Corsair offered to replace any damaged equipment if the leak was caused by a manufacturing defect. In one case, a guy had a leak and Corsair actually sent him better parts than what he had to begin with.

The Hydro Series coolers (with the exception of the H40) all have 5-year warranties. I'm a member at Tom's too, and in general their a pretty good bunch of guys over there, but I do know there's a few of them who have no clue when it comes to closed loop water coolers. I bet, to a man, all the guys speaking out against them haven't even tried one. If you look around on ocn, in the threads for different cases and builds you'll see tons of water coolers. Almost as many as air coolers. This is the right place to ask, because many of the people here have experience with them.

The H70 Core is not a bad cooler, even more so because you're not paying for fans and you can select your own. There's no doubt though that the H80 is a little better cooler as it has a newer pump design. I would expect the H80 to perform about (roughly) 4-5c better than the H70 (I fully documented my H70 to H100 switch last year, and I got about 7c better temps across all four cores. Since the H80 is pretty close to the H100, I would expect it to be about 5c better than the H70 under the same circumstances). That was with a Core 2 Quad 2.5GHz overclocked to 3.3GHz. Your results will vary with different CPUs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mahiv87*
> 
> I bought a H80 for my new PC last month and i RMA'd it because the fan controller didnt seem to work. I followed the instructions that the CS Rep gave me to reset but nothing changed. I received my new H80 today, installed it and im having the same problem. Is it possible to get 2 defects back to back? I really dont want to have to wait another month to have this one replaced. I have both, the fan connecter and molex connecter plugged in. Should I have both plugged? I know you guys are Corsair Reps but any help is greatly appreciated.
> P.S. I ran AIDA64 stress test to see if the fans would ramp up and they never did, my temps reached 70C.


Maybe you should email Corsair George ( [email protected] ). It's really unfortunate to get two units in a row with a bad block/fan controller. Have you thought about using third party fan controller instead of the controller in the block? Have you checked to see if your motherboard will support controlling 3-pin fans? If so, you can plug them into your motherboard. Some motherboards now have two cpu_fan headers but if yours doesn't you may need a splitter of some kind. Unfortunately, other than Corsair's reset instructions, I don't know of any way to get a failed block/fan controller to work.

The Molex connector is for the voltage going to the pump and the fans. The small connector you plug into the CPU_FAN header is the RPM signal from the pump. This lets you see the RPM the pump is running at in BIOS or with software, while also preventing a possible CPU_FAN error some motherboards will get if there is no CPU_FAN RPM signal.

I would recommend talking to Corsair George first though. He may have better advice or a better solution. If you find the only option for you is to send it away again, think about using a different method to control your fans. You do have a few other options.


Purchase a fan controller. They're fairly inexpensive and work pretty good. Unfortunately you'll have to manually control your fans (some people like this).
Check and see if your motherboard will support controlling 3-pin fans. If it will, you can use it to control your cpu cooler fans. Check your manual. You may need a splitter.
If your motherboard will not control 3-pin fans, you can always purchase some PWM fans and use a PWM splitter to control them from your CPU_FAN header on your motherboard. Plug your small pump RPM connector into a CASE_FAN or PSU_FAN header.
Plug direct into molex and let them run at 100% all the time. Some people like this, personally I don't but it's still an option.


----------



## mahiv87

Quote:


> Maybe you should email Corsair George ( [email protected] ). It's really unfortunate to get two units in a row with a bad block/fan controller. Have you thought about using third party fan controller instead of the controller in the block? Have you checked to see if your motherboard will support controlling 3-pin fans? If so, you can plug them into your motherboard. Some motherboards now have two cpu_fan headers but if yours doesn't you may need a splitter of some kind. Unfortunately, other than Corsair's reset instructions, I don't know of any way to get a failed block/fan controller to work.
> The Molex connector is for the voltage going to the pump and the fans. The small connector you plug into the CPU_FAN header is the RPM signal from the pump. This lets you see the RPM the pump is running at in BIOS or with software, while also preventing a possible CPU_FAN error some motherboards will get if there is no CPU_FAN RPM signal.
> I would recommend talking to Corsair George first though. He may have better advice or a better solution. If you find the only option for you is to send it away again, think about using a different method to control your fans. You do have a few other options.
> 
> Purchase a fan controller. They're fairly inexpensive and work pretty good. Unfortunately you'll have to manually control your fans (some people like this).
> Check and see if your motherboard will support controlling 3-pin fans. If it will, you can use it to control your cpu cooler fans. Check your manual. You may need a splitter.
> If your motherboard will not control 3-pin fans, you can always purchase some PWM fans and use a PWM splitter to control them from your CPU_FAN header on your motherboard. Plug your small pump RPM connector into a CASE_FAN or PSU_FAN header.
> Plug direct into molex and let them run at 100% all the time. Some people like this, personally I don't but it's still an option.


Thanks Mergatroid. I have the Corsair 600t SE and i have both fans connected to the case's fan controller and it works great. Im fine with leaving it like that but i would rather have a fully working unit. I plugged the fans straight into the MB and they spun up to their max RPM. I will email Corsair George about my issue. Thanks for the referral.


----------



## artic

Many thanks mergatroid !









Well I looked at the H70 product at amazon but didn't notice it hadn't any fans thanks for warning me









Your reply really help me make the decision to go water cooled, however I don't want to throw away the rear Haf X fan, in order to put a 120 mm.... So I guess I I will have to try and see if I can get the H80 or H60 (their at discount on a shop near me







) in any other place if not well the 140 is coming out!

Again many thanks for the reply!


----------



## Krusher33

I was trying to fold on my CPU for the fold-a-thon. Temp kept rising to above 62. Flipped the H60 that was exhaust to intake and dropped my temps to mid 50's while folding. "FoldingCausesYouToOptimizeSystem" FTW.


----------



## richie_2010

I put the 140mm in the front of my case in the drive bays


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nerdybeat*
> 
> Hey there all! Just wrapped up a minor upgrade and wire management sesh. Upgraded my H70 to H100 (yay birthday gift) and re-arranged my GPU cooler to rear exhaust. Also moved an AP-14 to the front 5.25" bay adapter. Here are some pics!! So far I am liking the CPU temps. Not a world of difference from the H70, but I wanted a cleaner look in the case and an excuse to re-wire manage.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice setup!


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *artic*
> 
> Many thanks mergatroid !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I looked at the H70 product at amazon but didn't notice it hadn't any fans thanks for warning me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your reply really help me make the decision to go water cooled, however I don't want to throw away the rear Haf X fan, in order to put a 120 mm.... So I guess I I will have to try and see if I can get the H80 or H60 (their at discount on a shop near me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) in any other place if not well the 140 is coming out!
> Again many thanks for the reply!


The older H70 came with fans. You may be seeing an older product that someone still has in-stock. The "H70 Core", which is the new version, is offered without fans. Also note, I should have mentioned this before, the H70 does not have a fan controller built into the block. So, you will either have to plug them direct into your PSU, or get a fan controller, or get some PWM fans and a PWM splitter so you can plug them into the CPU_FAN header on your mobo. Unless, of course, your board will control 3-pin fans.

Note that all these coolers use 120mm fans, and 120mm fan mounting holes. If you want to keep your rear fan, you may need to look into a 120mm to 140mm converter (which would work a little like a shroud). The H80 comes with two fans (for push/pull) while the H60 comes with one PWM fan that you can plug into your CPU_FAN header. Still, personally I would recommend removing the rear fan anyway. The H80 has two fans that match, and the H60...well, since it only comes with one, it's hard to say if you should dump the rear case fan or not. It's not a rad fan, so it likely won't be as good as the fan on the H60. Also, you will want to control the fans using the same source. Since the rear case fan is unlikely a PWM fan, it would be best to use a pair of 3-pin fans or a pair of PWM fans with a splitter, or just use the one 120mm PWM fan that comes with the H60. If you decide to use an H60 with 3-pin fans, you're going to have to decide how to connect them just like if you purchased an H70.

The simplest solution is to go with the H80 since it has a fan controller built in. Also note that the H100 would likely fit in your case nicely, but you'd have to lose the top case fan. You would get a few degrees more from the H100 over the H80, but it does cost a little more as well. I think the H100 would look awesome in a Haf X case. Check in the Haf X forum and ask them if anyone has used an H100 and how they like it. My roommate has a Haf X which I'm looking at now, and it looks to me like an H100 would fit beautifully right in the top. The case is so big it looks like you may be able to fit an H100 with a full push/pull setup if you wanted.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I was trying to fold on my CPU for the fold-a-thon. Temp kept rising to above 62. Flipped the H60 that was exhaust to intake and dropped my temps to mid 50's while folding. "FoldingCausesYouToOptimizeSystem" FTW.


Folding....the ultimate stress test


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I was trying to fold on my CPU for the fold-a-thon. Temp kept rising to above 62. Flipped the H60 that was exhaust to intake and dropped my temps to mid 50's while folding. "FoldingCausesYouToOptimizeSystem" FTW.
> 
> 
> 
> Folding....the ultimate stress test
Click to expand...

For sure. I actually use v7 to stress client builds. If the CPU gets too hot you'll know it right quick. Found a bad 8120 in February or March that way. With the stock cooler on it, it couldn't level out under 60c and climbed gradually @approximately 17c Ambient. Explained the issue to AMD and they RMA'ed it no questions asked. The replacement leveled out at ~52c on the stock Cooler.

P95 is a great stressor but I doubt I would have hit that high temp running P95 for an hour like some builders do. Besides, if a new build can pass 2 or 3 WU over 24hours as a stressor it's a Win/Win for all round.









~Ceadder


----------



## Krusher33

Yeah, lately I have just been stress testing for about an hour in Prime just for quick check and then fold.


----------



## kizwan

My build only 1.5 month old & there is already a lot of dust on the radiator. Look like I need to clean them soon. Question: How often you clean your radiator?


----------



## nerdybeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> My build only 1.5 month old & there is already a lot of dust on the radiator. Look like I need to clean them soon. Question: How often you clean your radiator?


Sounds about right for timeframe of needing a dusting. I just picked up my H100, but I had an H70 before that I cleaned every 2-3 months. I could typically notice higher idle temps when dust built up. You could try some 120mm fan filters, but I am not sure how much they would truly help. I just take some compressed air to my rad every 2-3 months.


----------



## kizwan

I'm thinking using vacuum cleaner. I will put cellotape to prevent the fan from spinning. Is this good idea? If not, I don't mind removing the radiator from the case for proper cleaning.


----------



## Krusher33

I just take fan off, vacuum, put fan back on. Once every 2 months I think. I have a dusty house with a dog and 2 kids and wife who loves to garden.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I just take fan off, vacuum, put fan back on. Once every 2 months I think. I have a dusty house with a dog and 2 kids and wife who loves to garden.


Tell the wife that the garden needs to be moved outside.









~Ceadder


----------



## Krusher33

Ha ha.


----------



## kizwan

Thanks for the advice guys! I will clean it this weekend.

EDIT: I'll probably change the configuration from exhaust to intake. What do you guys think?


----------



## Ceadderman

Well if you like dropping the radiator alot to keep it running efficiently then by all means make it intake. Just remember that the dust is going to be coming in at a faster rate with the suction of those fans added to the process.









I get quite a bit of dust on top of mine. I don't even want to consider how much more would hit the top of my case with my fans set to intake.









~Ceadder


----------



## Krusher33

Good point.


----------



## kizwan

On second thought, I will maintain exhaust configuration. If I change to intake, VRMs will get hotter air when under load. Exhaust at least suck hot air from VRMs area. I have 2 x 120mm fans at the front sucking fresh air from outside.


----------



## Krusher33

I have a fan on my panel that blows right on top the VRM area.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> On second thought, I will maintain exhaust configuration. If I change to intake, VRMs will get hotter air when under load. Exhaust at least suck hot air from VRMs area. I have 2 x 120mm fans at the front sucking fresh air from outside.


I think overall your making a wise choice, as I stated on page 2071 most of us run top exhaust. The temp diff was only 2-3c less for the CPU, BUT for me personally my board and GPU ran considerably hotter with the intake config also fighting physics (hot air R>), tried several fan configs, just to many dead spots ...

Speaking of VRM's/Northbridges overheating some may find this interesting ... "Holy Heatwave Batman"


----------



## Ceadderman

I have a Full Coverage block cooling my NB/SB and VRM. Obviously I no longer run Hydro Series cooler though.









~Ceadder


----------



## RKTGX95

What are the performance benefits of the Corsair SP120 on the H80 ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> What are the performance benefits of the Corsair SP120 on the H80 ?


Depends on the FPI rating and the speed of the fan tbh. I don't have an H80 so I cannot say what the FPI rating is on that radiator. If it's low then a medium speed fan would be best. If it's high , then the higher the speed the better.

Personally, if cost is an issue I wouldn't consider buying a pair of $22 fans and putting them on an H80. I'm not sure $44 worth of fans is worth putting on an all in one cooler. But that's just imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## Krusher33

I can't remember anyone saying anything about seeing great improvements once changed out the fans on *any* of the Hydro series, but that's just me.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I can't remember anyone saying anything about seeing great improvements once changed out the fans on *any* of the Hydro series, but that's just me.


I actually did improve my temps by adding a second fan and shroud to my H50. Above and beyond the ~15c I got by lapping my CPU. So yeah there have been people that said something about an improvement in temps. I can't say on a one for one basis because I hacked the brand new fan and made it a shroud. But I can say that using another fan did decrease the temps somewhat. ~5c is what I got if I remember correctly.









~Ceadder


----------



## Krusher33

Yeah, adding fan and shrouds, I know. Even just adding a shroud helped me. But completely replacing the fans with different fans is one I don't remember anyone saying about great improvements. Heck, i changed out my fan with a GT 2150 and I don't remember seeing a great improvement.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Depends on the FPI rating and the speed of the fan tbh. I don't have an H80 so I cannot say what the FPI rating is on that radiator. If it's low then a medium speed fan would be best. If it's high , then the higher the speed the better.
> Personally, if cost is an issue I wouldn't consider buying a pair of $22 fans and putting them on an H80. I'm not sure $44 worth of fans is worth putting on an all in one cooler. But that's just imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


tbh, i was asking from the assumption that H80 = Kuhler 920, and even further: H80 Fans = Kuhler 920 Fans. is the second assumption right?
(the 920 in here is cheaper by at least 20$ than the H80, it has LED and software control. so its a no brainer for me)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Depends on the FPI rating and the speed of the fan tbh. I don't have an H80 so I cannot say what the FPI rating is on that radiator. If it's low then a medium speed fan would be best. If it's high , then the higher the speed the better.
> Personally, if cost is an issue I wouldn't consider buying a pair of $22 fans and putting them on an H80. I'm not sure $44 worth of fans is worth putting on an all in one cooler. But that's just imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tbh, i was asking from the assumption that H80 = Kuhler 920, and even further: H80 Fans = Kuhler 920 Fans. is the second assumption right?
> (the 920 in here is cheaper by at least 20$ than the H80, it has LED and software control. so its a no brainer for me)
Click to expand...

TBH, I'm not sure if they are equal to each other as the Corsair units are manufactured by Yate Loon and I have no idea who manufactures the Kuhler units. It could be that Yate Loon manufactures those as well because Acetek started building the Kuhler just before Corsair kicked them to the curb.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> My build only 1.5 month old & there is already a lot of dust on the radiator. Look like I need to clean them soon. Question: How often you clean your radiator?


I clean mine about every three months. I have found that because of the filters over the intake fans, I'm not getting much dust inside and almost none in my rad (which is exhaust). You can use a vacuum cleaner. I use a combination of that and compressed air.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> What are the performance benefits of the Corsair SP120 on the H80 ?


The new Corsair fans, even the "high static pressure" fans, actually have a lower static pressure than than H80 stock fans. So, personally, the only advantage I can see is they may make less noise. They might look cooler too, but you're not going to see a performance improvement from them. In fact, you could even see your temps rise slightly at maximum load and RPM.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> tbh, i was asking from the assumption that H80 = Kuhler 920, and even further: H80 Fans = Kuhler 920 Fans. is the second assumption right?
> (the 920 in here is cheaper by at least 20$ than the H80, it has LED and software control. so its a no brainer for me)


Those two coolers have different pumps. In fact, the only similarity is the rad. I just checked a 920 unboxing, and the fans are different too. The 920 pump looks like the H70 pump.


----------



## kizwan

I got a chance to clean the radiator today & also all fan filters in the case. I use vacuum cleaner, fast & easy. I can see CPU temp down around ~2C.


----------



## _REAPER_

I will be home on RR from Deployment I am looking forward to cleaning my pc and putting in some time doing something fun.


----------



## Erick Silver

Decided to add a fan to my H60. Now running with 2x Cooler Master R4 Red LEDs. But due to the temps in my area and a bad overclock I am idle at 43*c. I think there's something wrong with my cooler though. Ambients are about 30*c.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I will be home on RR from Deployment I am looking forward to cleaning my pc and putting in some time doing something fun.


What branch?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bubba Hotepp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I will be home on RR from Deployment I am looking forward to cleaning my pc and putting in some time doing something fun.
> 
> 
> 
> What branch?
Click to expand...

I'm reasonably sure Reaper is Army, but I don't mean that as an insult if he's Marine Corps. All are welcome in my house.









~Ceadder


----------



## kzone75

Just started sleeving so it's messy right now..


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm reasonably sure Reaper is Army, but I don't mean that as an insult if he's Marine Corps. All are welcome in my house.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Agreed. Anyone who steps on a battlefield with crazy religoid nutjobs is welcome in my house too. Having been an airforce brat I can appreciate what military people do, and they have my respect.


----------



## Bubba Hotepp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm reasonably sure Reaper is Army, but I don't mean that as an insult if he's Marine Corps. All are welcome in my house.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ahhh.....a ground pounder or a jarhead....He he he....(just kidding)

GOOOO NAVY.....BEAT ARMY!!


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm reasonably sure Reaper is Army, but I don't mean that as an insult if he's Marine Corps. All are welcome in my house.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Prior Devil Dog working now for the USG on projects in the Middle East
6 years in Iraq
2 years recovering from something that happened in Iraq
2 years in Afghanistan


----------



## aas88keyz

Recently with my h80 I changed from the fans being plugged into the waterblock controller to the two cpu connections on my Crosshair V and had two big improvements. I have the mb controller at normal auto speed and I would say not only has my temps lowered at least 5*C but when I am not at load I swear the decibels are at least a 1/3 of what they used to be. Much better controller for me with no bad tradeoffs, yet? I was suprised though cause I never tried it before cause I thought the controller was only for 4 pin PWM and not 3 pin DC fans. Pleasantly surprised. And for the big Folding events I will definately look into changing my controller to turbo auto temporarily just to keep my overclock safer.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm reasonably sure Reaper is Army, but I don't mean that as an insult if he's Marine Corps. All are welcome in my house.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Prior Devil Dog working now for the USG on projects in the Middle East
> 6 years in Iraq
> 2 years recovering from something that happened in Iraq
> 2 years in Afghanistan
Click to expand...

Well then Semper Fi my friend, glad to see you're coming home.









~Ceadder


----------



## Erick Silver

I need some help guys. My Idle temps are horrible in my HAF922 with the H60 in Push/Pull set to intake. Idles are 42*c. Someone help me please!!!


----------



## nerdybeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> I need some help guys. My Idle temps are horrible in my HAF922 with the H60 in Push/Pull set to intake. Idles are 42*c. Someone help me please!!!


Have your ambient temps jumped at all? When is the last time you dusted out the rad? (I specifically remember seeing my idles go up after a couple months of no dusting) Have you verified the pump is running at full rpm?


----------



## Reaper2794

I know the H60 uses 1/2 OD" tubing. Same for H100 I suppose?


----------



## Seanay00

Quick question, I currently have a H100 and upgraded from my H70. The H70 just was no good on a I7 950 @ 4.15. I'm now gonna use the H70 on a phenom ii 965. When I shake the H70 I can clearly hear the liquid moving around, which means air in the radiator. Is this normal? If not is there a way to fix it?


----------



## Erick Silver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nerdybeat*
> 
> Have your ambient temps jumped at all? When is the last time you dusted out the rad? (I specifically remember seeing my idles go up after a couple months of no dusting) Have you verified the pump is running at full rpm?


Dusted it yesterday after seeing idle temps of about 50*c. This used to run at around 40*c. Right now its around 43*c. I keep my computer room at about 22-23*c I am not folding on the cpu, just the GPU.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nerdybeat*
> 
> Have your ambient temps jumped at all? When is the last time you dusted out the rad? (I specifically remember seeing my idles go up after a couple months of no dusting) Have you verified the pump is running at full rpm?
> 
> 
> 
> Dusted it yesterday after seeing idle temps of about 50*c. This used to run at around 40*c. Right now its around 43*c. I keep my computer room at about 22-23*c I am not folding on the cpu, just the GPU.
Click to expand...

Sounds like the GPU temps are being soaked up by the CPU.









You might stop folding for a bit and let the GPU cool off and then look at your temps. If the CPU returns to normal then you know what the issue is and that you could use a fan blowing across the top of the GPU from front of the case to the back. If it doesn't change I'm not sure what it could be.


----------



## Kokin

Could just be summer temps. Even a temperature-controlled room will have slightly different temps at different seasons, especially if you have windows in that room.


----------



## Erick Silver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sounds like the GPU temps are being soaked up by the CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You might stop folding for a bit and let the GPU cool off and then look at your temps. If the CPU returns to normal then you know what the issue is and that you could use a fan blowing across the top of the GPU from front of the case to the back. If it doesn't change I'm not sure what it could be.


I will look into that this evening. You might be right. I do have a 120mm fan in the bottom of my rig set to intake to bring cooler air into my GPU. Maybe its forcing some heat up into the CPU. I will try the GPU shut down this evening to see. That or find a way to set up a fan to help move more air to the top 200MM fan that set to exhaust.


----------



## Erick Silver

Not sure but there may have been air in the lines after my thorough cleaning of the rad. Temps are now around 34*c idle and about 50*-54*c under load. Which is more in line. I would like it cooler under load. But that won't happen until I do some maneuvering of the rig and Cat5E cables in my house. I plan on setting my rig in front of a In wall AC unit for it to bring the cold air into the rad. Also. Was wondering if the BitFenix Spectre Pro LED Red 120mm Case Fan were any good. Let me know.


----------



## Mergatroid

A lot of people in the 600T thread are loving those fans (at least the 200mm version). There is no static pressure listed in the specs. If you decide to try them, please give us before and after temps so we know how they are on a rad. I hate it when a company claims to have high static pressure and then doesn't list it in the specs.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Not sure but there may have been air in the lines after my thorough cleaning of the rad. Temps are now around 34*c idle and about 50*-54*c under load. Which is more in line. I would like it cooler under load. But that won't happen until I do some maneuvering of the rig and Cat5E cables in my house. I plan on setting my rig in front of a In wall AC unit for it to bring the cold air into the rad. Also. Was wondering if the BitFenix Spectre Pro LED Red 120mm Case Fan were any good. Let me know.


Be sure there's not too much moisture coming from the AC unit as well.


----------



## Erick Silver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> A lot of people in the 600T thread are loving those fans (at least the 200mm version). There is no static pressure listed in the specs. If you decide to try them, please give us before and after temps so we know how they are on a rad. I hate it when a company claims to have high static pressure and then doesn't list it in the specs.


I was planning on getting 4x of the 120mm versions and 2x of the 200mm versions. But $50 for just 4x 120mm is steep right now. I may have to pick them up one at a time. I hate being broke.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Be sure there's not too much moisture coming from the AC unit as well.


Yeah what with all the heat coming out of my rig I am thinking that condensation may be a bit scarce. We will test to find out.


----------



## OverClocker55

corsair fans work good on the h60?


----------



## Mergatroid

You mean the fan that comes with it? I think in general it really depends on what you're looking for in a fan. For performance, I think the H60 fan is pretty good. For noise, well it may be a little louder than the better fans out there. A Yate Loon or a Scythe Gentle Typhoon would be a better choice for good quiet performance, but for pure performance the Corsair stock fans are usually pretty decent and I've heard louder fans.

Fan Speed Up to 1700 RPM Fan Airflow 74.4 CFM Fan dBA 30.2 dBA. Fan Static Pressure 3.2mm/H20

The nice thing about the H60 fan is that it's a four pin PWM fan, so you can plug it right into your CPU_FAN header and let your motherboard control it (Plug the little pump connector into a case or psw fan header).

If you want push/pull you'll have to get a different set of fans.


----------



## phillyd

You could always grab some Corsair Air Static Pressure fans. even the High Performance are quiet at high RPM


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> You could always grab some Corsair Air Static Pressure fans. even the High Performance are quiet at high RPM


these are the fans I was talking about imma get some thanks


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> You could always grab some Corsair Air Static Pressure fans. even the High Performance are quiet at high RPM


OK now I'm confused ... did you end up going with Corsair Air Series AF120 (quiet edition) for your "Pride n Prodigy" build (see [THIS LINK] Post#20702) ... OR as we recommended, the Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition which you recommend above? Did you try them both? Be interesting to hear your thoughts if you got to compare them head to head in your recent build


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> OK now I'm confused ... did you end up going with Corsair Air Series AF120 (quiet edition) for your "Pride n Prodigy" build (see [THIS LINK] Post#20702) ... OR as we recommended, the Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition which you recommend above? Did you try them both? Be interesting to hear your thoughts if you got to compare them head to head in your recent build


I said I was getting the Air series quiet edition, didnt specify AF or SP.
I haven't gotten any of them yet. If I can get a fan controller I'll get the SP Performance, if not I might get the quiet.
I'm really considering getting Bitfenix Spectre Pro's though, to keep the brand theme.


----------



## Krusher33

There's a wanted ad for closed loops in the marketplace. Be sure to check it out if you're trying to sell one.


----------



## tw33k

Gotta give props to Silverstone AP-121 fans. I ran my H100 with 4x Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000 push/pull vs 2x AP-121 push & 2x UK-3000 pull and got much better results with the Air Penetrators. Wasn't expecting that

*4x UK-3000*


*2x AP-121/2x UK-3000*


----------



## Mergatroid

Very unexpected indeed. Especially considering you were using a mismatched set. I wonder how 4 x AP push/pull would be?


----------



## JWak-1

Hello, I'm new here, apology's if this sounds stupid, but I was wondering whether painting my H60's rad would affect its performance? The radiator never seems to get hot to touch, even under load, so I can't imagine that coating it in paint would insulate it or anything.

I'm undecided as to whether I will paint it, or use carbon wrap vinyl, I have some other aesthetic modifications to make to my case before deciding, but I wanted to ask this before proceeding.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JWak-1*
> 
> Hello, I'm new here, apology's if this sounds stupid, but I was wondering whether painting my H60's rad would affect its performance? The radiator never seems to get hot to touch, even under load, so I can't imagine that coating it in paint would insulate it or anything.
> I'm undecided as to whether I will paint it, or use carbon wrap vinyl, I have some other aesthetic modifications to make to my case before deciding, but I wanted to ask this before proceeding.


Not at all if your taping off the fins and only painting the "Body". I really like the idea of "Carbon Vinyl Wrap"







Post some finished pics ...

More info on "Rad" painting *[HERE]*


----------



## JWak-1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Not at all if your taping off the fins and only painting the "Body". I really like the idea of "Carbon Vinyl Wrap"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Post some finished pics ...
> More info on "Rad" painting *[HERE]*


Cheers







Yeah, I was going to tape off the fins and just paint the body of the rad. I'm going to use the carbon wrap on my PSU, its an ugly matte green, and I want to go for a black/blue scheme. The standard NZXT Phantom in black with blue LED's looks pretty cool, I'd like to push it a bit, but painting the rad blue might look odd so I'll do that last. Carbon could look pretty nice though.

I'll post some pics in a few days, waiting on delivery


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Very unexpected indeed. Especially considering you were using a mismatched set. I wonder how 4 x AP push/pull would be?


The Air Penetrators aren't good exhaust fans so I didn't bother testing the H100 with 4 of them.


----------



## Mergatroid

Actually, pull fans don't need to be as good as the push fans is. At least according to opinion from Corsair George earlier in the thread. One thing for sure, the consensus seems to be it's always better to use matched fans if they are available than mismatched fans.

Do you have a link where the AP were tested against other fans, as push and pull, showing that the APs don't perform well in pull? I would be interested in reading it.


----------



## _REAPER_

UPDATE to my current RIG. Let me know what you guys think


----------



## Krusher33

That's freaking nice.


----------



## simonfredette

ton of power going into those gpu's , I dont think my psu would even have enough outputs for it , already im maxed out on 6+2 PCIs with my 2 570's and they take 2x6 pins each


----------



## Trelga

The h100 comes what TiM pre applied correct? Or would you reccomend me using my own.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Actually, pull fans don't need to be as good as the push fans is. At least according to opinion from Corsair George earlier in the thread. One thing for sure, the consensus seems to be it's always better to use matched fans if they are available than mismatched fans.
> Do you have a link where the AP were tested against other fans, as push and pull, showing that the APs don't perform well in pull? I would be interested in reading it.


No, I don't have a link. I tried them on my heatsinks and they don't perform great in the "pull" position. What makes the fans great is the grille that focuses the air which is useless as exhaust.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trelga*
> 
> The h100 comes what TiM pre applied correct? Or would you reccomend me using my own.


I would recommend scraping it off, balling it up and cutting off enough to apply to the CPU. Should be reasonable to do so. They apply a thicker amount than what's necessary and the stock TIM on the H50 was G751 so I'm pretty sure that is what will be on the H100. If it doesn't work out as well make sure to have some G751 on hand for the process. It and AS5 are tops in claass but G751 takes ~1 day to cure and AS5 takes 200 hours.










~Ceadder


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trelga*
> 
> The h100 comes what TiM pre applied correct? Or would you reccomend me using my own.


Lets not complicate a simple question surrounding incomplete details







...
The H100 comes with pre-applied TIM (Dow Corning / Shin-Etsu G751) that is some of the best in the business ... _there is no reason to scrape it off and reapply it_ ... I have remounted H100's several times with the G751 TIM and observed no signifigant difference in temps with high to moderate overclocks and well ventilated cases. See also [HERE]

We could all give more depth to our answere's if you stated what Tim of your own you were considering replacing it with? It would also help very much if we knew your system specs and setup? How high if any of an overclock do you wish to achieve? etc etc ....


----------



## OverClocker55

Hey guys









I just had arm surgery. I'm sorry I haven't been on lately and helping the club. I'll be back soon










Spoiler: Picture.. !


----------



## simonfredette

oof quite a scar , just in time for shark week , I would work that for sure ..hope it heals well and its good to see you back !


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> oof quite a scar , just in time for shark week , I would work that for sure ..hope it heals well and its good to see you back !


Thanks


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trelga*
> 
> The h100 comes what TiM pre applied correct? Or would you reccomend me using my own.


The H100 comes with Dow Corning TIM. Corsair says it's as good as the Shin-Etsu they use on the H50 and H70.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Trelga*
> 
> The h100 comes what TiM pre applied correct? Or would you reccomend me using my own.
> 
> 
> 
> The H100 comes with Dow Corning TIM. Corsair says it's as good as the Shin-Etsu they use on the H50 and H70.
Click to expand...

I believe that Dow Corning makes Shin Etsu G751. I could be wrong but every time I go to the Shin Etsu site I always see Dow Corning prominently displayed on their site.









And the reason I say to scrape it off and reapply it is cause it's generally too thick to begin with. I know the H50 was rather caked on when I got it. I scraped off the TIM and didn't reapply it because I lapped both the Pump and the CPU. I should have reused the TIM but TIM isn't that expensive so I didn't stop to consider it. There are others here who did reuse it after scraping it off.









~Ceadder


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I believe that Dow Corning makes Shin Etsu G751. I could be wrong but every time I go to the Shin Etsu site I always see Dow Corning prominently displayed on their site.


I think my statement earlier was misleading/confusing?, my apologies







... and in the past Corsair George wasn't always clear on when and what models Corair changed from Shin-Etsu to Dow Corning. There are a lot of other misleading/confusing statements out there but *Shin-Etsu does make/formulate their own TIM*, weather Dow Corning supplies some of the "compounds" used in their formula is unknown but I found no evidence in their MSDS (material data safety sheet(s)). And at Dow Corning's site you can see a brand comparison listing Shin-Etsu independantly from DC products ... see pic below



The pic didn't show full res so PDF file here ... dowcorning.com/content/publishedlit/11-1712-01.pdf · PDF file
Page 12

I still stand by my own personal experience of Corsair's stock TIM being on par or equal to Shin-Etsu G751 performance wise


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I believe that Dow Corning makes Shin Etsu G751. I could be wrong but every time I go to the Shin Etsu site I always see Dow Corning prominently displayed on their site.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think my statement earlier was misleading/confusing?, my apologies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and in the past Corsair George wasn't always clear on when and what models Corair changed from Shin-Etsu to Dow Corning. There are a lot of other misleading/confusing statements out there but Shin-Etsu does make/formulate their own TIM, weather Dow Corning supplies some of the "compounds" used in their formula is unknown but I found no evidence in their MSDS (material data safety sheet(s)). And at Dow Corning's site you can see a brand comparison listing Shin-Etsu independantly from DC products ... see pic below
> 
> 
> 
> The pic didn't show full res so PDF file here ... dowcorning.com/content/publishedlit/11-1712-01.pdf · PDF file
> Page 12
> 
> I still stand by my own personal experience of Corsair's stock TIM being on par or equal to Shin-Etsu G751 performance wise
Click to expand...

I stand corrected. I'm a devout Shin Etsu guy and my experience is from when I had the H50 in my system. So much so I'm starting to carry the larger tubes in my stock for client builds. Much cheaper than bending over and taking the .5g cost in the wallet.









~Ceadder


----------



## TomcatV

Yea sometimes I wonder how much I would've already saved if I bought the bulk can in the 1st place









Fun fact ... did you know the original G751 formula came out in 1998







and was recertified/formulated in 2002??? according to their MSDS? ...


----------



## Krusher33

A big can of it? "TAKE MY MONEY NOW!"


----------



## Ceadderman

i'm basically paying $3 per half gram when you include shipping. That's Up to $3 cheaper per half gram tube. Wish I could afford a Can of it but I've got overhead that needs to be dealt with first. Once I get things a little more in line I'll probably start supplying it and giving a solid discount for OCN members. This stuff really is the best. Some people don't like it but I've never had a single problem with the stuff other than vendor cost of it.









What I really like about it is that I don't have to spread it. I can just let the wait of the block, squish it out across the CPU and with less than ~8hrs of burn in it made it easy to see whether or not I needed to reseat my H50 which could be a real PitA, what with the inflexible nylon tubes.









~Ceadder


----------



## Krusher33

Yeah. I need to find a new TIM to use. I'm close to the end of my tube of OCZ Freeze.


----------



## Erakith

Just found this on the Alienware fan page on Facebook..
Comedy gold


----------



## Krusher33

Ha ha ha


----------



## Trelga

So how often do you guys replace the TiM?


----------



## simonfredette

never if your temps dont go up , otherwise everytime I take a block off for any reason.. Ive heard of people doing it every six months and if that works for them , I just go by the "if it isnt broken dont fix it " motto.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trelga*
> 
> So how often do you guys replace the TiM?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> never if your temps dont go up , otherwise everytime I take a block off for any reason.. Ive heard of people doing it every six months and if that works for them , I just go by the "if it isnt broken dont fix it " motto.


I've been a part of a couple of beta testing of coolers so that's several applications used. And then I'm always building PC for other people. Some times I tend to swap coolers between my pc's for whatever reason.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erakith*
> 
> Just found this on the Alienware fan page on Facebook..
> Comedy gold










...







... hey waitaminnit I think dude might be onto something with a fully sealed system.


















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Trelga*
> 
> So how often do you guys replace the TiM?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> never if your temps dont go up , otherwise everytime I take a block off for any reason.. Ive heard of people doing it every six months and if that works for them , I just go by the "if it isnt broken dont fix it " motto.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I've been a part of a couple of beta testing of coolers so that's several applications used. And then I'm always building PC for other people. Some times I tend to swap coolers between my pc's for whatever reason.
Click to expand...

This. Whenever changing coolers, checking the block, lappy lappy oda CPU, client builds etc.







Can never have enough TIM imho.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> This. Whenever changing coolers, checking the block, lappy lappy oda CPU, client builds etc. biggrin.gif Can never have enough TIM imho. thumb.gif


well watch how you say that , newbs ( not condescending, like new people ) , you can never OWN too much TIM , you can absolutely apply too much TIM , with most tims, less is more , which is weird because of how and how much corsair applies , everytime ( ok twice ) that I was installing a new unit I left it as is and it spews out the edges and stuff , you should really only need a dot in the middle slightly smaller than a pea ( some say a cooked grain of rice ) and it will spread just fine ... ( obviously trying to tell you how to do it ceadder , just making sure people doing it for the first time know)


----------



## JAM3S121

Hi guys i was wondering if using these fans would hinder the performance of the h100 I just purchased? I am going to change the stock fans more for aesthetic reasons.

I currently have one of these http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8409/fan-526/Noiseblocker_NB-BlackSilentFan_XLP_120mmx25mm_Ultra_Quiet_PWM_Fan_-_1000-2000_RPM_-_14-31_dBA.html

Would two of these perform well? I already have one on my hyper 212+ and its really quiet, I was thinking using two with a pwm y cable on the h100 would work well?


----------



## simonfredette

it would work well enough , wouldnt be milestones better than the stock but if you like the look and sound ( stock corsairs arent the most quiet imo ) then go for it, an H100 isnt as touchy as a custom loop , if you get good airflow through that rad then it will do its job , if you want to get better temps either go with really good fans , use shrouds or push pull..


----------



## JAM3S121

Well I don't have the h100 but doesn't the little controller on the cpu block directly change the fan speed or is that for the pump? I was hoping to just use two Noiseblocker XLPs because they can be used as PWM and are pretty quiet for my use. IF i wanted to achieve better temps I would probably throw the stock corsairs on top of the rad where I can't see them. I have a nice lighting plan soon though so i dont want those fans showing lol.


----------



## simonfredette

the controller on the block is for the fans , you dont really have to use it though if you want to control the fans using the motherboard instead ,but your fans will work with the corsair controller anyways so do what you want


----------



## JAM3S121

I'd rather have the PWM control all the time then have to "Set" the corsair module to a different level for more performance if that makes any sense. I'm sure the stock fans are probably a little better than the XLPs but the xlps are pretty silent imo. thanks for the help


----------



## simonfredette

yeah , with the amount you can actually change temps with hydro series I wouldnt worry about it too much , your temps wont vary much between ideal fans or the ones you want , the rad isnt that big and the block isnt as efficient as a high performance custom loop one , it comes down to how important is 2 degrees to you kinda thing.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> This. Whenever changing coolers, checking the block, lappy lappy oda CPU, client builds etc. biggrin.gif Can never have enough TIM imho. thumb.gif
> 
> 
> 
> well watch how you say that , newbs ( not condescending, like new people ) , you can never OWN too much TIM , you can absolutely apply too much TIM , with most tims, less is more , which is weird because of how and how much corsair applies , everytime ( ok twice ) that I was installing a new unit I left it as is and it spews out the edges and stuff , you should really only need a dot in the middle slightly smaller than a pea ( some say a cooked grain of rice ) and it will spread just fine ... ( obviously trying to tell you how to do it ceadder , just making sure people doing it for the first time know)
Click to expand...

lol I didn't think you were tellin me how it's done si.









Wassumatter? Would you like some Motherboard to go with your TIM?









~Ceadder


----------



## JAM3S121

got a little worried just reading through the corsair forum about the h100


----------



## simonfredette

ive never had issues with mine , I used it and OCd my i7 960 with it and now its in my wifes pc , no noise issues or any of that grinding or anything Id buy one again anyday and I certainly wouldnt get a kuhler instead !


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> got a little worried just reading through the corsair forum about the h100
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> ive never had issues with mine , I used it and OCd my i7 960 with it and now its in my wifes pc , no noise issues or any of that grinding or anything Id buy one again anyday and I certainly wouldnt get a kuhler instead !
Click to expand...

It seems only guys with problems post in the Corsair forum, with good reason, it is a CS forum afterall ...
BUT you'll get much more enjoyment/info out of this OCN's "Enthusiast's" thread!
The 1st H100's started showing up almost a year ago [page 1905] and Mergatroid, maybe the most enthusiastic H100 owner, started posting mid-Sept, page 1945 [HERE]. He has a PWM setup (like yours) and is quite knowledgeable regarding all the owners different fan configurations. It may take you awhile to read all those pages, but I think you'll not only find it informative, but even hilariously entertaining at times









Total "DITTO" aggrement w/Simon's comments above


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I believe that Dow Corning makes Shin Etsu G751. I could be wrong but every time I go to the Shin Etsu site I always see Dow Corning prominently displayed on their site.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the reason I say to scrape it off and reapply it is cause it's generally too thick to begin with. I know the H50 was rather caked on when I got it. I scraped off the TIM and didn't reapply it because I lapped both the Pump and the CPU. I should have reused the TIM but TIM isn't that expensive so I didn't stop to consider it. There are others here who did reuse it after scraping it off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


According to this post, they are different TIMs. I have no doubt that Dow Corning may make Shin-Etsu TIM for someone, but they are not the same TIM (they're not even the same colour as H50/70 TIM is pink, and H80/100 TIM is white).

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showpost.php?p=523712&postcount=69 (better late than never)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> never if your temps dont go up , otherwise everytime I take a block off for any reason.. Ive heard of people doing it every six months and if that works for them , I just go by the "if it isnt broken dont fix it " motto.


What he said.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> Hi guys i was wondering if using these fans would hinder the performance of the h100 I just purchased? I am going to change the stock fans more for aesthetic reasons.
> I currently have one of these http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8409/fan-526/Noiseblocker_NB-BlackSilentFan_XLP_120mmx25mm_Ultra_Quiet_PWM_Fan_-_1000-2000_RPM_-_14-31_dBA.html
> Would two of these perform well? I already have one on my hyper 212+ and its really quiet, I was thinking using two with a pwm y cable on the h100 would work well?


The static pressure on those fans is only 2.653 mm-H2O (max). The pressure on the H100 fans is 7.7mm-H20. Those fans will not perform even close to as good as the stock H100 fans.

However, it depends on what you want. If your willing to accept higher temps for nicer looking fans, then go for it.

Evidence? I just installed two of these fans on my H100:

http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX40631

(youtube video of the swap and results

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BBZBt9Qyo5Q&feature=plcp

Their static pressure is 2.18 mm-H2O (very close to the fans you're looking at).

I was using a couple of Scythe Slipstream 1900 RMP fans (110 CFM) which I thought were not all that great. When I installed these new fans this weekend (because they light up like a freaking casino) my temps went up by 6-8c at max RPMs using Intel Burn Test. So, I would expect even more of a difference if I was comparing to the stock H100 fans, as they are over 7mmH20 and really high performing fans. The only reason I would replace them is if I wanted four pin PWM fans (which I did), or if I wanted quieter fans and I was willing to see a performance drop at high load. In fact, if the Corsair fans were PWM, I would still be using them. I switched to PWM for the same reason it looks like you want to, so my motherboard could control my fans.

Here is my before and after:

 

Needless to say, I will likely be putting my Scythe fans back in.

I'm a little confused here:

"Hi guys i was wondering if using these fans would hinder the performance of the h100 I just purchased?"

"Well I don't have the h100 but doesn't the little controller on the cpu block directly change the fan speed or is that for the pump?"

In one message you say you just bought it, and in another you say you don't have one.

The short answer is, yes, the fans you provided a link to _will_ hinder the performance of the H100.

The H100 block has three control ranges:

Low - 900 RPM to 1300 RPM
Mid - 1300 RPM to 2000 RPM
High - 1600 RPM to 2600 RPM

That's using the stock fans. For each click of the button on the block, you move the range up one. Personally, I also changed my fans to PWM fans (the Scythe Slipstream 1900 RPM fans I mention above). Even though they are not as good as the stock fans, they're still fairly good when considering the comparison I just did to the 2.18 (mm-H2O) fans I mention above.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> yeah , with the amount you can actually change temps with hydro series I wouldnt worry about it too much , your temps wont vary much between ideal fans or the ones you want , the rad isnt that big and the block isnt as efficient as a high performance custom loop one , it comes down to how important is 2 degrees to you kinda thing.


Have you tested that or did you see it somewhere? My testing shows otherwise. The stock H100/80 fans are excellent fans for pure performance. In fact, even my idle temps have gone up by about 8c from my fan change this weekend. My idle is now about 40c at a 24c ambient. With the Scythe fans, I was getting an idle of about 32c (by idle I mean web browsing as I am doing now). This and I wasn't even using the H100 stock fans which are better than the Scythe fans I was using.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> got a little worried just reading through the corsair forum about the h100


We have two in our house and they're both working perfectly. I know some people have had some noise issues with the block, but I don't think it's prevalent.

If anyone wants to show two ~2-3 mm-H2O fans performing close to two 7.7 mm-H2O h100 stock fans using Intel Burn Test or Prime 95, I would love to see it.

The basic fact is, if you want looks you're likely not getting performance in regards to fans. With as large a change in temps as I'm getting with these "casino" fans I tried, I will be reinstalling my Scythe fans this weekend. This is not written in stone or anything. There may be great fans out there that also look awesome, but generally speaking most LED fans are not great fans (at least from what I've seen).


----------



## simonfredette

I tried using stock , 4 x corsair fans in push pull ,yate loons and the gentle typhoons and yes there is a temperature change but at least in my case it didnt really change how far I could overclock , which for me is really the point of changing fans ( that and noise ) but what I really ultimately is that the hydro series arent meant to be a custom loop , the perform similarly to high end air coolers without having a giant brick of an air cooler on your mobo.. So what I mean is dont invest a ton of money in fans hoping your going to get mad overclocks with your H80 or something because no amount of fans is going to make that a custom loop , theres just not enough rad !


----------



## Ceadderman

Not to argue with you Merg, but the TIM on my H50 before I removed it was haze grey the same color the US Navy uses for most of their fleet operations. I know cause I got sick of that color my 2nd month in the fleet.









I like the color now but not if I had to scrub the side of the ship, chip the old and paint over with the fresh. Went through too many uniform shirts due to painting. lol









Are you sure you didn't mean Mauve instead of Pink? Mauve is the grey side of the pink spectrum.









~Ceadder


----------



## Seanay00

Hey you think a H70 would be enough to cool a Phenom II x4 965 overclocked to 4.2ghz?? i would settle for 4ghz if thats all it would take. Im basically building another gaming rig out of spare parts i have around the house after upgrades on 2 gaming rigs.


----------



## simonfredette

I dont know how hot phenoms get but my i7 960 only got from 3.2 to 3.8 on an H100 , hopefully an amd person can tell you better !


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanay00*
> 
> Hey you think a H70 would be enough to cool a Phenom II x4 965 overclocked to 4.2ghz?? i would settle for 4ghz if thats all it would take. Im basically building another gaming rig out of spare parts i have around the house after upgrades on 2 gaming rigs.


I think folks get to 3.8-4.0 range. 4.2 is more custom WC range.


----------



## Samurai707

I've been using two Scythe slip-streams as my push into my H100 and the stock fans as pull... and of course, as of yesterday I just noticed that the fans aren't spinning anymore (good thing I felt like looking in)... Temps aren't too different until in BF3... Have been looking at the Corsair series fans, just to stay with the brand, however, do you guys recommend any other fans?
It'd be nice to plug them into the H100 controller, but I normally have my rad fans on full anyway so it's not that big of a deal...
All your guys' advice is welcome and much appreciated


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> I've been using two Scythe slip-streams as my push into my H100 and the stock fans as pull... and of course, as of yesterday I just noticed that the fans aren't spinning anymore (good thing I felt like looking in)... Temps aren't too different until in BF3... Have been looking at the Corsair series fans, just to stay with the brand, however, do you guys recommend any other fans?
> It'd be nice to plug them into the H100 controller, but I normally have my rad fans on full anyway so it's not that big of a deal...
> All your guys' advice is welcome and much appreciated


Oh boy here we go







... you may get quite a few comments on why your "slipstreams" died? ...
_"cough" severly mismatched fans in a push/pull config "cough"_ ...

AND as a quick fix I'd move the stock H100 "high static pressure" fans into the "Push" position, probably where they should've been in the 1st place ... trust us, we've had many debates on this already ... then check your performance you may be surprised!









Then if you decide you must have a push/pull config ... everyone is going to recommend you invest in all 4 fans as a matching set like the ones you mention, Corsair SP120 HP's ... but for the best performance where noise isn't a concern you could pick up 2 more matching H100 stock fans









BUT in my opinion this is overkill for the overall capacity of the H100's Rad capabilities, the diminishing returns argument is quite applicable here. Note:I have since tested other builds w/4 moderate "static pressure" push/pull fan setups comming to the above conclusion, there is only so much heat dissapation that the H100 rad is capable of no matter how many fans you throw on it!
I originally planned on picking up a matching set of the H100 high static pressure fans for push/pull in my rig but found the stock CM 200mm fan in a pull position along w/stock H100 fans as "pushers", works quite well for my setup and overclocks. And I've even become fond of the "basterdized" look







... HeeHee I've found your average Joe takes one look at the large 200mm fan sitting on top of the case and immediately oooh's n ahhhs , kinda silly ehhh?









Push/Pull matching fan debate starts *[HERE] post#20349*

EDIT: OOOps all this is on the assuption that your "Slipstreams" are the failed fans ... but after re-reading your post, if all 4 fans have failed then you may have an entirely different problem i.e. power (connections) / block controller failure etc ???


----------



## Samurai707

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Oh boy here we go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... you may get quite a few comments on why your "slipstreams" died? ...
> _"cough" severly mismatched fans in a push/pull config "cough"_ ...
> AND as a quick fix I'd move the stock H100 "high static pressure" fans into the "Push" position, probably where they should've been in the 1st place ... trust us, we've had many debates on this already ... then check your performance you may be surprised!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then if you decide you must have a push/pull config ... everyone is going to recommend you invest in all 4 fans as a matching set like the ones you mention, Corsair SP120 HP's ... but for the best performance where noise isn't a concern you could pick up 2 more matching H100 stock fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT in my opinion this is overkill for the overall capacity of the H100's Rad capabilities, the diminishing returns argument is quite applicable here. Note:I have since tested other builds w/4 moderate "static pressure" push/pull fan setups comming to the above conclusion, there is only so much heat dissapation that the H100 rad is capable of no matter how many fans you throw on it!
> I originally planned on picking up a matching set of the H100 high static pressure fans for push/pull in my rig but found the stock CM 200mm fan in a pull position along w/stock H100 fans as "pushers", works quite well for my setup and overclocks. And I've even become fond of the "basterdized" look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... HeeHee I've found your average Joe takes one look at the large 200mm fan sitting on top of the case and immediately oooh's n ahhhs , kinda silly ehhh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Push/Pull matching fan debate starts *[HERE] post#20349*
> EDIT: OOOps all this is on the assuption that your "Slipstreams" are the failed fans ... but after re-reading your post, if all 4 fans have failed then you may have an entirely different problem i.e. power (connections) / block controller failure etc ???


Nah you were right, just the slipstreams are dead... And the only reason I am using them is because they were lying around... Ordered 4 SP120s off amazon with prime (summer session texts and fans, just in time). I'm not gonna mess with it until the SPs come in on the 10th.

I feel like someone told me around when I bought the H100 that the Stocks would be best in pull but I don't have any evidence to back that up







Hope I don't get pitchforked outa here!


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> Nah you were right, just the slipstreams are dead... And the only reason I am using them is because they were lying around... Ordered 4 SP120s off amazon with prime (summer session texts and fans, just in time). I'm not gonna mess with it until the SPs come in on the 10th.
> I feel like someone told me around when I bought the H100 that the Stocks would be best in pull but I don't have any evidence to back that up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope I don't get pitchforked outa here!


Nah ... no pitchforks in the "barn" around here ... but I would confirm without quoting all the science behind it again regarding 'Static Pressure" that you are better served with your higher SP fans in a "Push" position









I just re-read the mismatched Push/Pull debate again







... wonder how lively the debate will get this time giving your pretty solid evidence of "Fan Death" by mismatch? Note: it is 2 fans NOT just 1, pretty convincing evidence??? maybe ???


----------



## maxUS

Anyone know how big of a difference is it on an h60 when having just push instead of push/pull? Im building a new rig and all i would want to overclock would be to 4.0.


----------



## Samurai707

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Nah ... no pitchforks in the "barn" around here ... but I would confirm without quoting all the science behind it again regarding 'Static Pressure" that you are better served with your higher SP fans in a "Push" position
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just re-read the mismatched Push/Pull debate again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... wonder how lively the debate will get this time giving your pretty solid evidence of "Fan Death" by mismatch? Note: it is 2 fans NOT just 1, pretty convincing evidence??? maybe ???


Correct sir! *Two* dead Scythe Slipstreams, brand new ones I had stashed away, used for maybe 5-6 months and were pushing.


----------



## aas88keyz

Hey folks. Anyone have experience with the H100 in a CM 690 II case. I currently have 2 H80's. First one the cat nibbled on the hoses and I temporarily sealed it with electric tape. I replaced that one (with the cat locked up in the other room) and had good success with the 2nd one. I have a new fx-8120 I have oc'd to 4.3GHz and probably have more room to continue to oc later. I found that the fan controller on my CHV mb controls the speed of both stock dc fans on the h80 which actually had better control than the block. Better performance and quieter when I need it. I am now looking to add a h-series to my 2nd rig. For a while I was contemplating on modding my case on top for a push/pull h100 which doesn't look too difficult with the lack of experience I have in modding. But after upgrading my RAID 0 x2 hdd's with a single ssd for os and programs I saved some room in my hdd cage and realized then that I may be able to remove the lower half of the cage to make room for an H100 on the bottom of the case instead. If there is someone with experience with the CM 690 II and H100 can you confirm that i can remove the bottom half of the hdd cage to install the h100, and for everyone else, is possible to use the spare stock h80 fans from my old h80 not being use and match them to the H100 stock fans for push/pull. And finally will I lose a lot of performance of the H100 push/pull intaking or exhausting from the bottom of the case. Or should I stick with what I know and just get another h80 for the other rig and keep the working one I have on my main. I am looking at perfomance increase most of all. silence 2nd. I would probably still use my two cpu fan controllers and splitters for both sets of push/pull fans. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not to argue with you Merg, but the TIM on my H50 before I removed it was haze grey the same color the US Navy uses for most of their fleet operations. I know cause I got sick of that color my 2nd month in the fleet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the color now but not if I had to scrub the side of the ship, chip the old and paint over with the fresh. Went through too many uniform shirts due to painting. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you sure you didn't mean Mauve instead of Pink? Mauve is the grey side of the pink spectrum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Makes me wonder if they changed it over the course of manufacturing? I could be mistaken about the H50/70 TIM colour since I've only seen it a couple of times, but I could swear the H50 I have here and the H70 I had previously were a pink TIM. In any case, the H100 TIM is white. I noticed it being a different colour as soon as I took it out of the box. It could have been Mauve as you say. Basically, to me anything paler than red is pink.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanay00*
> 
> Hey you think a H70 would be enough to cool a Phenom II x4 965 overclocked to 4.2ghz?? i would settle for 4ghz if thats all it would take. Im basically building another gaming rig out of spare parts i have around the house after upgrades on 2 gaming rigs.


I've owned an H70 and it was a great cooler, but I have no idea how much heat your CPU is going to put out at that speed. When I switched from the H70 to the H100, I got an average temperature drop of 7c across all my cores on an overclocked Core 2 quad. Maybe that will give you an idea of how well the H70 performs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> I dont know how hot phenoms get but my i7 960 only got from 3.2 to 3.8 on an H100 , hopefully an amd person can tell you better !


That sucks. I'm getting a 1GHz overclock on my i5 2500k without any voltage mods, and I got a 800MHz overclock on a core 2 quad using the H70 and I don't think it reached a heat limit since I didn't adjust the voltages on it either and it was still roughly 20c below temps with a stock cooler.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> I've been using two Scythe slip-streams as my push into my H100 and the stock fans as pull... and of course, as of yesterday I just noticed that the fans aren't spinning anymore (good thing I felt like looking in)... Temps aren't too different until in BF3... Have been looking at the Corsair series fans, just to stay with the brand, however, do you guys recommend any other fans?
> It'd be nice to plug them into the H100 controller, but I normally have my rad fans on full anyway so it's not that big of a deal...
> All your guys' advice is welcome and much appreciated


Yeah, that would have been better with the stock H100 fans as push. How could all four fans fail at the same time? Are you sure you block fan controller is working? Have you tried testing them using a different power source (like molex from the psu)?

I was using two 1900 RPM Scythe Slip Stream fans on my H100, which I'm reinstalling this weekend because the fans I replaced them with are not very good. It turns out that the SSS fans are actually not bad fans.

The new Corsair high pressure fans are OK, but I think they won't perform as well as the stock H100 fans based on their specs. The H100 fans have a static pressure of 7.7 mmH2O. I think the new Corsair fans are (Quiet edition 1.29 mm/H20 and "Performance" edition 3.1mm/H2O). Personally, I think those are not great specs. In fact, the 1.29mm/H2O is worse than the fans I'm removing from my H100 this weekend because they just suck (they are 2.1mm/H2O). You would get far less noise though, but considering you run your fans full speed all the time, I guess you're not concerned with noise. I don't see how they can call 3.1 mmH2O "performance" since they wouldn't perform as well as the stock fans. I was going to purchase those fans until I realized they're not PWM. Now I'm glad they're not based on their specs.

You should really test your fans. The odds are pretty high against all four failing at the same time.

Edit: Never mind, I see you did test them. I was using my Slip Stream fans as pull on my H100 with the stock fans as push for about four months without any problems. Maybe you got a couple of bum fans.


----------



## Samurai707

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Never mind, I see you did test them. I was using my Slip Stream fans as pull on my H100 with the stock fans as push for about four months without any problems. Maybe you got a couple of bum fans.


Yeah, when I bought them from Newegg sometime last year, I bought four of them in total, and with these two going out on me, that makes my dead tally of 3 Scythe fans. They definitely got the job done and it was done well, however, their lifespan was utter crap


----------



## simonfredette

that sucks , someone was trying to convince me to go scythe instead of gentle typhoons but as much as I dont mind playing in my case and replacing parts , my wife is going to kill me if I constantly have to buy new fans , its easier to apologize once for buying a bunch of fans than it is doing it every few months.


----------



## Krusher33

If you're want something bang for bucks wise It'd be Yate Loons. But yeah... GT's are pretty good quality fans. I've had a medium speed one going for a very long time now. I can't even remember when I bought it.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> that sucks , someone was trying to convince me to go scythe instead of gentle typhoons but as much as I dont mind playing in my case and replacing parts , my wife is going to kill me if I constantly have to buy new fans , its easier to apologize once for buying a bunch of fans than it is doing it every few months.


Gentle Typhoons are made by Scythe. I have used the pair of Scythe Slip Stream fans I have on an H70 in push/pull, and then an H100 paired with the stock fans, and now I've been using them on the H100 as push/exhaust fans and they're still working great. I'll be reinstalling them this weekend because they're so much better than the flashy Casino fans I bought to try. They have turned out to be better fans for my use than I actually thought they were. Still I would rather have some GT 3000 fans, but I can't find them locally. I'd love to get a pair and do the PWM mod on them.


----------



## simonfredette

weird that scythe makes the gt and its so praised online and then they have other lines of products that dont do so well ,youd think that they would make sure everything is up to standard so they dont drop in reputation because of it


----------



## razalom

Well my h100 arrived today now just have to install it. Also grabbed 2 BitFenix Spectre Pro 120mm Black Tinted Red fans to replace the stock ones.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Yeah, that would have been better with the stock H100 fans as push. How could all four fans fail at the same time? Are you sure you block fan controller is working? Have you tried testing them using a different power source (like molex from the psu)?
> 
> You should really test your fans. The odds are pretty high against all four failing at the same time.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> Nah you were right, just the slipstreams are dead... And the only reason I am using them is because they were lying around... Ordered 4 SP120s off amazon with prime.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Never mind, I see you did test them. I was using my Slip Stream fans as pull on my H100 with the stock fans as push for about four months without any problems. Maybe you got a couple of bum fans.
Click to expand...

Was wondering when you'd catch up on the details (previous posts) LoL







... also curious why you don't feel this fan failure "May?" be due to a "mismatch" and a less than optimal push fan location?
Here comes "Bubba"? (maybe he's on vacation?) .... LoL
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *razalom*
> 
> Well my h100 arrived today now just have to install it. Also grabbed 2 BitFenix Spectre Pro 120mm Black Tinted Red fans to replace the stock ones.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> The new Corsair high pressure fans are OK, but I think they won't perform as well as the stock H100 fans based on their specs. The H100 fans have a static pressure of 7.7 mmH2O. I think the new Corsair fans are (Quiet edition 1.29 mm/H20 and "Performance" edition 3.1mm/H2O). Personally, I think those are not great specs. In fact, the 1.29mm/H2O is worse than the fans I'm removing from my H100 this weekend because they just suck (they are 2.1mm/H2O). I don't see how they can call 3.1 mmH2O "performance" since they wouldn't perform as well as the stock fans..
Click to expand...

How Betfinix can claim these are "High Static Pressure" fans is beyond me







... 1.24 mmH2O (see specs *HERE*) I don't know all the details why you'd replace the far superior stock H100 fans except for asthetics or possibly noise concerns, but if your H100 doesn't perform as expected you'll know why


----------



## simonfredette

nothing under 2.5 is high static imo , there are enough high static pressure fans out there that put this one to shame im surprised theyre not getting laughed at


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Was wondering when you'd catch up on the details (previous posts) LoL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... also curious why you don't feel this fan failure "May?" be due to a "mismatch" and a less than optimal push fan location?
> Here comes "Bubba"? (maybe he's on vacation?) .... LoL


Bubba left OCN.


----------



## Samurai707

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Was wondering when you'd catch up on the details (previous posts) LoL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... also curious why you don't feel this fan failure "May?" be due to a "mismatch" and a less than optimal push fan location?
> Here comes "Bubba"? (maybe he's on vacation?) .... LoL


TBH, I don't know that much about fans and rads and such, It could have been due to "mismatch," however, I had four of these originally and one died just as a case fan within two-three months of intake.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> TBH, I don't know that much about fans and rads and such, It could have been due to "mismatch," however, I had four of these originally and one died just as a case fan within two-three months of intake.


My earlier post may have been a bit confusing, my apologies, but on top of "affectionately" (with respect) bagging on Mergatroid for not fully reading the previous posts regarding your situation, I was hinting that question toward him







and whomever wanted to comment again? ...
Anyway I would need more proof, other examples like yours, to say in fact your "Slipsteams" death's were caused by "mismatch" but I did find the *coinsidence signifigant*








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Bubba left OCN.


Sorry to hear that! ... I didn't always agree w/Bubba but I enjoyed his perspective at times ... Bubba RIP








Bubba would've gone wild with Samurai's situation and I think we'd all agree it would've been pretty intertaining, and I really did want to hear what his college prof buddy (expert?) had to say on the debate ... oh well


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Was wondering when you'd catch up on the details (previous posts) LoL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... also curious why you don't feel this fan failure "May?" be due to a "mismatch" and a less than optimal push fan location?
> Here comes "Bubba"? (maybe he's on vacation?) .... LoL
> How Betfinix can claim these are "High Static Pressure" fans is beyond me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... 1.24 mmH2O (see specs *HERE*) I don't know all the details why you'd replace the far superior stock H100 fans except for asthetics or possibly noise concerns, but if your H100 doesn't perform as expected you'll know why


Because it doesn't match what was said earlier, which was that the more powerful fan would be the one going bad, which is not the case here. In fact, I was the one thinking perhaps the less powerful fan would be the one to go bad IF one did, but I was told "no, it would be the more powerful fan" which is not what happened. Considering I used the same fans in the same way, except I used the stock fans as push, I don't see mismatched fans being the cause here or it's likely I would have seen my exact same fans having the exact same problem. I have always maintained that having a slower performing fan as the pull fan is no worse than putting a high performing fan against a rad in the first place.

Also, he was not using the more powerful fans as push, which I specifically said should be done. And, because I was freaking sick and tired of arguing about it. As you can see, I did fully read the post. And, again as you can see, Samurai707 did get a bad batch of fans as one of them died by just being used as a case fan. My SSS fans are still working great.

I agree about the Betfinix fans. I picked up a 200mm Spectre Pro fan last weekend and I'm not very impressed. Sure it's quiet, but it seems to hardly move any air at full speed. It's easy to make a slow fan quiet if it doesn't move much air. It's supposed to move 148.72 CFM, but when I compare it to my NZXT fan at 166 CFM, the SP fan seems like crap.

The stock H100/80 fans may be noisy, but they really perform well. As I have mentioned previously (ad nauseum for many people I suppose) the only reason I would replace them is if I required quieter fans, or I really wanted PWM (which I do). Anyone wanting high performance and not caring about loud fans should keep the stock fans. If they use a good fan controller, or if their mobo can control 3-pin fans, the H100 fans are not very noisy at low RPM but still offer about the same or better performance than ~1-3 mm/H2O other fans offer.


----------



## TomcatV

Merg I couldn't agree more w/your "final" analysis







... especially when Samurai eluded to the fact that he had a 3rd 'Slipstreme" fail elsewhere in his case ... still it was an interesting problem, especially with "Slipstremes" rather stellar reputation


----------



## idaWHALE

Just found out about this group. Here is my H100







:


----------



## razalom

Oh well machine finished now


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *razalom*
> 
> Oh well machine finished now


*Oh Well* ... it looks nice! ... Welcome ... maybe fill in your specs?









Edit: Also welcome to idaWHALE, looking good! Looks like you have also swapped out your stock H100 fans?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Merg I couldn't agree more w/your "final" analysis
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... especially when Samurai eluded to the fact that he had a 3rd 'Slipstreme" fail elsewhere in his case ... still it was an interesting problem, especially with "Slipstremes" rather stellar reputation


I have heard other people complain about the SSS fans before. What I heard was not to use them horizontal or they won't last long. I guess I got lucky, because that's how I was running them and I wasn't having any problems.

I am curious as to what their static pressure is. For some reason, Scythe likes to leave that little detail out of their specs. It must be half decent though considering how much better they function than a fan that offers 2-3 mm/H2O.

@idaWHALE and @razalom:

Nice builds. I love how water coolers leave the centre of the computer all open space.

Nice to see the H100 fits so well in the Phantom case.


----------



## razalom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> *Oh Well* ... it looks nice! ... Welcome ... maybe fill in your specs?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Also welcome to idaWHALE, looking good! Looks like you have also swapped out your stock H100 fans?


Will update specs when I get home. Works doesnt seem to want to let me for some reason


----------



## juneau78

count me in guys, im H100 user with GT AP-15


----------



## samoth777

hi fellow hydro users!

this is a question directed at those who have experienced using both H100 fans pushing out as exhaust and H100 pushing in as intake at the top. whats the difference? im thinking of changing my exhaust setup into a top intake.


----------



## Samurai707

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> hi fellow hydro users!
> this is a question directed at those who have experienced using both H100 fans pushing out as exhaust and H100 pushing in as intake at the top. whats the difference? im thinking of changing my exhaust setup into a top intake.


My CPU temp is colder now that I have it set to intake from exhaust... however, my internal temps have risen a tiny bit.

But I haven't tested the difference with my new fans.


----------



## jeffro37

Here is mine.

I tried bouth ways and only found a 1 to 2 difference.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> My CPU temp is colder now that I have it set to intake from exhaust... however, my internal temps have risen a tiny bit.
> But I haven't tested the difference with my new fans.


thats a bit strange , usually people setting up as an intake get better temps on their rad because of the fresh air going through the rad but then get hotter internal temps because of the 2 fans blowing hot air from the rad into the case , setting it up as exhaust you first of all get a lot less dust coming into the rig , cooler ambient air in the rig because of the large surface exhaust but slightly higher temps in the rad .. Dont mean to contradict anyone though , just another persons experience , it boils down to try both and tell us what you thought


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samoth777*
> 
> hi fellow hydro users!
> this is a question directed at those who have experienced using both H100 fans pushing out as exhaust and H100 pushing in as intake at the top. whats the difference? im thinking of changing my exhaust setup into a top intake.


In a nutshell [like Jeffro37] I only saw a 1-2c improvement for the CPU only with intake over exhaust. Wasn't worth it to me to have my motherboard and other components running hotter (GPU(s) included) ... and especially my Northbridge see *[HERE]* ]. Additionally alot depends on your Total Setup [ie. high OC?/push-pull fan config?/#, spec & position(s) of case fans / average ambients? etc] or the *"YMMV"* concept explained [B][HERE] post #20726[/B]

I don't think you'll find a single H100 owner in this thread that isn't running their H100 in an exhaust configuration, with the proper case ventilation setup while taking advantage of plain ol' "physics". In my HAF922 I do have an additional high CFM 120mm front intake fan supplying plenty of cool/fresh air to the H100. ...

EDIT: ooops I stand corrected ... looks like Samurai has a fairly New "Intake" set-up








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> thats a bit strange , usually people setting up as an intake get better temps on their rad because of the fresh air going through the rad but then get hotter internal temps because of the 2 fans blowing hot air from the rad into the case , setting it up as exhaust you first of all get a lot less dust coming into the rig , cooler ambient air in the rig because of the large surface exhaust but slightly higher temps in the rad .. Dont mean to contradict anyone though , just another persons experience , it boils down to try both and tell us what you thought


You're exactly right ... but I think that is what he is saying ...


----------



## Samurai707

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> EDIT: ooops I stand corrected ... looks like Samurai has a fairly New "Intake" set-up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're exactly right ... but I think that is what he is saying ...












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> thats a bit strange , usually people setting up as an intake get better temps on their rad because of the fresh air going through the rad but then get hotter internal temps because of the 2 fans blowing hot air from the rad into the case , setting it up as exhaust you first of all get a lot less dust coming into the rig , cooler ambient air in the rig because of the large surface exhaust but slightly higher temps in the rad .. Dont mean to contradict anyone though , just another persons experience , it boils down to try both and tell us what you thought


What Tomcat said, sorry if I was a little confusing, but that's exactly what I was trying to say


----------



## simonfredette

figured something had to be backwards , unless you use your pc in the desert and your ambient temps are much higher than your case temps on load , then you can run exhaust ..


----------



## edsai

Hey folks,

I have a Hyper 212+ with two PWM fans for my Core i5 3550.
Actually the 212+ performs well with good temps and low fans rpm.

But I am just concerned about my case limitation for higher air coolers on my future upgrades.
Ther 212+ fits in my case, but doesn't have much more clearence to the side panel.
I can't rely on better air coolers much taller than the 212+.
If the cooler height could be an issue, the water cooler could be a choice if I need to replace the 212+.

So I am just curious how the H80 or H100 performs with push-pull PWM fans.

My idle temps with 212+ is 30C and the fans at 600 rpm. I can't hear the fans.

The temps on Prime95 goes around 50C with the fans at 600 - 900 rpm.
Also during the test, the fans seems quiet.

Can the H80 and the H100 have good temps with low rpm and noise?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Samurai707

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> Hey folks,
> I have a Hyper 212+ with two PWM fans for my Core i5 3550.
> Actually the 212+ performs well with good temps and low fans rpm.
> But I am just concerned about my case limitation for higher air coolers on my future upgrades.
> Ther 212+ fits in my case, but doesn't have much more clearence to the side panel.
> I can't rely on better air coolers much taller than the 212+.
> If the cooler height could be an issue, the water cooler could be a choice if I need to replace the 212+.
> So I am just curious how the H80 or H100 performs with push-pull PWM fans.
> My idle temps with 212+ is 30C and the fans at 600 rpm. I can't hear the fans.
> The temps on Prime95 goes around 50C with the fans at 600 - 900 rpm.
> Also during the test, the fans seems quiet.
> Can the H80 and the H100 have good temps with low rpm and noise?
> Thanks in advance.


I don't know the 3550 that well, but those temps seem amazing to me. I'd say stick with it!


----------



## simonfredette

usually the H80 is what we hear is neck to neck with a hyper 212 , but as it was said your temps are impressive the way they are and I think that to meet them you would need higher rpm on the H80 even in push pull, I think you would maybe get better temps ( 1-2 degrees , not much play there ) with the H100 especially in push pull but you need the space and the fans will be more noticeable , where you will see a difference is a nice clean case instead of having a skyscraper sitting on your CPU .


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> My CPU temp is colder now that I have it set to intake from exhaust... however, my internal temps have risen a tiny bit.
> But I haven't tested the difference with my new fans.


You hit the nail on the head. Exhaust causes higher CPU temps but lower internal case temps (this lower chipset and gpu temps), while Intake causes lower CPU temps, at t he cost of having higher internal case temps.

For me the H100 works well enough that I would prefer keeping my air cooled GPUs cooler by not pumping warm radiator air into the case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> thats a bit strange , usually people setting up as an intake get better temps on their rad because of the fresh air going through the rad but then get hotter internal temps because of the 2 fans blowing hot air from the rad into the case , setting it up as exhaust you first of all get a lot less dust coming into the rig , cooler ambient air in the rig because of the large surface exhaust but slightly higher temps in the rad .. Dont mean to contradict anyone though , just another persons experience , it boils down to try both and tell us what you thought


That's what he said "My CPU temp is colder now that I have it set to intake from exhaust"

I used both my H70 and H100 as exhaust, but the H50 in my space computer is intake just because it's the only intake fan in the case (front 120mm intake fan).


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> You hit the nail on the head. Exhaust causes higher CPU temps but lower internal case temps (this lower chipset and gpu temps), while Intake causes lower CPU temps, at t he cost of having higher internal case temps.
> For me the H100 works well enough that I would prefer keeping my air cooled GPUs cooler by not pumping warm radiator air into the case.
> That's what he said "My CPU temp is colder now that I have it set to intake from exhaust"
> I used both my H70 and H100 as exhaust, but the H50 in my space computer is intake just because it's the only intake fan in the case (front 120mm intake fan).


he fixed it !! it was a mistake and it was fixed ..


----------



## bundymania

Coolermaster comes out with their Iceberg Sets. Rad + Pump with german technique ! Maybe a good alternative for those Corsair Sets ?!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9zJLgGLaL0&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNwgj3XNWoo

http://www.coolermaster.eu/Eisberg/


----------



## mrradeon6950




----------



## simonfredette

nice , I love the look you get from those memory coolers , I should find one that fits on my memory , its corsair vengeance , 6 dimms triple channel obviously and im currently only running 3 4gb sticks , just putting it out there is someone knows one that will fit .


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Coolermaster comes out with their Iceberg Sets. Rad + Pump with german technique ! Maybe a good alternative for those Corsair Sets ?!
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9zJLgGLaL0&feature=related
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNwgj3XNWoo
> http://www.coolermaster.eu/Eisberg/


German engineering is the "Bomb" but their marketing skills and filling a consumer niche at a competitive "Price Point" is much to be desired. The "Eisbergs" were suppose to be released last May [see more disscussion HERE] and HERE.

IMO they haven't released yet because for the money the H80 and H100 certainly do their job for less! No compitition there







And if you need more cooling at Eisberg's pricepoint w/fans I think you'd do just as well to go back to building a "Custom Loop" ... XSPC rasa anyone







Edit: ooops Raystorm? It's been awhile as you can see since I fooled with entry level customs









But if I win one for free, I'd certainly use it







.... http://www.coolermaster.eu/Eisberg/

@edsai ... what Samurai and Simon said ... Simon Said ... nice ring to it


----------



## Krusher33

Raystorm.







I think they're dropping Rasa...


----------



## simonfredette

thats ok the raystorm is a great block, not everyone likes the whole acrylic LED thing but at least quality and efficiency its a very good block .


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bundymania*
> 
> Coolermaster comes out with their Iceberg Sets. Rad + Pump with german technique ! Maybe a good alternative for those Corsair Sets ?!
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9zJLgGLaL0&feature=related
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNwgj3XNWoo
> http://www.coolermaster.eu/Eisberg/


We'll have to wait and see how they perform, but at $130 Euros for the 240mm I don't think I would purchase one. It does look like a little beefier rad though, but I'm happy with what I have. Maybe if they get the price down...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> German engineering is the "Bomb" but their marketing skills and filling a consumer niche at a competitive "Price Point" is much to be desired. The "Eisbergs" were suppose to be released last May [see more disscussion HERE] and HERE.
> IMO they haven't released yet because for the money the H80 and H100 certainly do their job for less! No compitition there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And if you need more cooling at Eisberg's pricepoint w/fans I think you'd do just as well to go back to building a "Custom Loop" ... XSPC rasa anyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: ooops Raystorm? It's been awhile as you can see since I fooled with entry level customs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But if I win one for free, I'd certainly use it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... http://www.coolermaster.eu/Eisberg/
> @edsai ... what Samurai and Simon said ... Simon Said ... nice ring to it


+1


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> @edsai ... what Samurai and Simon said ... Simon Said ... nice ring to it +1


Yes, sure I already gave to Samurai And Simon +1 for their helpful posts.
Is really nice to find this community here.


----------



## Mergatroid

Oops, maybe I was misunderstood. I was just saying that I agree with what TomcatV said (+1).


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> @edsai ... what Samurai and Simon said ... Simon Said ... nice ring to it


Thanks to reply my post.


----------



## Qu1ckset

So i was planning out what fittings and extenders i need for my build and when i looking at one of my fans attached to my h80 i noticed water residue on the fan, this isnt normal right? the h80 is not supposed to sweat right? i checked below to make sure it wasn't dripping and thank god it wasn't. so what are your thoughts on this? is it nfg now?


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope, DEFINITELY not normal.









Is it still wet or is it dried?









You might back your screws out a little when it's down and see if maybe one of them punched a hole into your radiator. Cause that's what it kinds looks like what happened. It could have had some residual moisture on the fins that escaped but no telling without checking.









~Ceadder


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nope, DEFINITELY not normal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it still wet or is it dried?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You might back your screws out a little when it's down and see if maybe one of them punched a hole into your radiator. Cause that's what it kinds looks like what happened. It could have had some residual moisture on the fins that escaped but no telling without checking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


its been in there for at least 6months, and this is the first i noticed this, which i find weird... i think im just going to leave it and hope it last 3weeks or so, till i get all the parts for my custom loop, id have to remove my motherboard to access two of the screws, which im not interested in doing right now


----------



## Qu1ckset

are fluids used in the h80 conductive??


----------



## simonfredette

Id assume so , never looked into it but I cant see it being more more than distilled water with a few additives


----------



## Ceadderman

Always assume that the liquid in ANY AI1 cooler is conductive.









Doesn't matter anyway because even non conductive coolants become conductive after use.









~Ceadder


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> So i was planning out what fittings and extenders i need for my build and when i looking at one of my fans attached to my h80 i noticed water residue on the fan, this isnt normal right? the h80 is not supposed to sweat right? i checked below to make sure it wasn't dripping and thank god it wasn't. so what are your thoughts on this? is it nfg now?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How old your H80? It looks like oil from the fan motor. My H100 fans also did the same thing first month of usage. Examine it closely. If it oil, there's nothing to worry. It will stop after a while.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> How old your H80? It looks like oil from the fan motor. My H100 fans also did the same thing first month of usage. Examine it closely. If it oil, there's nothing to worry. It will stop after a while.


i think it was oil, i cleaned it off, so i can monitor how frequent this stuff appears


----------



## Prpntblr95

I got the same thing going on, small specs in the forst but on the right side of the second picture it takes up a good portion.


----------



## kizwan

Yup, that's just excess oil from the fan motor. Totally normal.

When it happen to mine, I examined the fans & radiator closely. No leaked & the "liquid" on the fan feels like oil & smell like one too. Googled & found this also happen to some (who bothered to report it). No danger at all. On mine, it stop leaking excess oil after approximately a month, IIRC.


----------



## jdbishop

To me it looks like it is oil from the fan, it is right around the gap in the fan. Is the wet spot oily? Maybe the seals in the fan went bad or leaked a little.


----------



## Prpntblr95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Yup, that's just excess oil from the fan motor. Totally normal.
> When it happen to mine, I examined the fans & radiator closely. No leaked & the "liquid" on the fan feels like oil & smell like one too. Googled & found this also happen to some (who bothered to report it). No danger at all. On mine, it stop leaking excess oil after approximately a month, IIRC.


That's good! I'm not sure if mine is still leaking or if it's done. I noticed it awhile ago but thought nothing of it till I read a few posts on the past page.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdbishop*
> 
> To me it looks like it is oil from the fan, it is right around the gap in the fan. Is the wet spot oily? Maybe the seals in the fan went bad or leaked a little.


I haven't felt it yet, I'm about to turn it off and check that and install 2 more fans so I'll get back too you on that in a little bit.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> How old your H80? It looks like oil from the fan motor. My H100 fans also did the same thing first month of usage. Examine it closely. If it oil, there's nothing to worry. It will stop after a while.


Good catch Kizwan! When I 1st looked at that pic I thought heck that looks like oil







happens to me all the time when I'm sloppy with manually oiling fans

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prpntblr95*
> 
> That's good! I'm not sure if mine is still leaking or if it's done. I noticed it awhile ago but thought nothing of it till I read a few posts on the past page.
> I haven't felt it yet, I'm about to turn it off and check that and install 2 more fans so I'll get back too you on that in a little bit.


Just smell test it ... I'd almost guarantee it will smell like petroleum


----------



## Prpntblr95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Good catch Kizwan! When I 1st looked at that pic I thought heck that looks like oil
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> happens to me all the time when I'm sloppy with manually oiling fans
> Just smell test it ... I'd almost guarantee it will smell like petroleum


It was oil


----------



## Ceadderman

That's good to know gang. I'd never seen anything like that. Of course I didn't fire up the fan that came with my H50. I just hacked the hub out of the casing and turned it into a shroud.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## OverClocker55

Getting a H100 soon


----------



## Samurai707

Building an mATX build, going with an H80 in a Silverstone TJ08-E


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> Building an mATX build, going with an H80 in a Silverstone TJ08-E


What fans are you using? The ones that come with it are crazy loud.


----------



## simonfredette

I have my H100'a fans in my main rig on an RX240 rad and theyre not too bad at low speeds , then again most fans arent too bad running at 40% , but even at 40% theyre still the loudest fans in the rig and there are 7 more fans plus the psu running .. But its not obnoxiously loud is what I mean.


----------



## Samurai707

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> Building an mATX build, going with an H80 in a Silverstone TJ08-E
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What fans are you using? The ones that come with it are crazy loud.
Click to expand...

Was planning to use two stock fans, sound doesn't bother me because I'm either listening to music or on ventrilo playing games and talking








Sent from my S3 [blazer rom] on Tapatalk


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> Building an mATX build, going with an H80 in a Silverstone TJ08-E
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What fans are you using? The ones that come with it are crazy loud.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Was planning to use two stock fans, sound doesn't bother me because I'm either listening to music or on ventrilo playing games and talking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my S3 [blazer rom] on Tapatalk
Click to expand...

ahh im a noise freak


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> Was planning to use two stock fans, sound doesn't bother me because I'm either listening to music or on ventrilo playing games and talking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my S3 [blazer rom] on Tapatalk


Not to mention that, even at low speed, the stock fans will still perform well and they allow you a lot of headroom to turn them up and get excellent performance.

When I was using them they didn't even come close at full speed to my HD6970 cards when they are really warm and their fans are running at high speed. Those cards are loud.

Still, I likely wouldn't use them in a HTPC or something that really needed to be quiet.


----------



## JAM3S121

Hey guys.

I just did a little experiment.

Before getting my fan control the stock h100 fans were too loud (my fan controller was DOA on the unit







)

With two http://www.amazon.com/Noiseblocker-NB-BlackSilentFan-120mmx25mm-Ultra-Quiet/dp/B001QSUFG4
and a vcore of 1.37, qpi/vtt of 1.377 and dram voltage of 1.66

my temps in linX after 18 passes at max were
76c
74c
75c
73c

using the h100 fans at full blast ( i reinstalled them now that I have a proper fan controller
73c
71c
72c
68c

pretty happy









this was the max temps after 10 passes in LinX which took me 18 minutes at "all" settings


----------



## Krusher33

You see boys... the stock fans are pretty good.


----------



## Samurai707

I thought it was known that they are really good fans for performance, but that everyone with their Princess ears couldn't handle it







(No offense to any actual Princess'







)


----------



## Krusher33

Yup, every 100 posts or so it must be reminded.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> Hey guys.
> I just did a little experiment.
> Before getting my fan control the stock h100 fans were too loud (my fan controller was DOA on the unit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> With two http://www.amazon.com/Noiseblocker-NB-BlackSilentFan-120mmx25mm-Ultra-Quiet/dp/B001QSUFG4
> and a vcore of 1.37, qpi/vtt of 1.377 and dram voltage of 1.66
> my temps in linX after 18 passes at max were
> 76c
> 74c
> 75c
> 73c
> using the h100 fans at full blast ( i reinstalled them now that I have a proper fan controller
> 73c
> 71c
> 72c
> 68c
> pretty happy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this was the max temps after 10 passes in LinX which took me 18 minutes at "all" settings


That's about right on depending on your ambients ... what were they? Also are you set up as a push only top exhaust? Those noise blockers, while they certainly don't match the stock fans static pressure, are not to bad @2.653 mm-H2O/2000rpm. Doing the same test I'm now curious how well your stock H100 fans would do @ the Low setting? In an 18min test I bet they're only 1-2c hotter?


----------



## Ceadderman

One expects the fans to be reasonable. There are better fans but Corsair uses(or at least used to) Yate Loon fans. It's too bad they do not include the specs of the fan on the packaging. I replaced mine right off the bat because I couldn't see having it paired with another fan in Push Pull without knowing where to set it up exactly. So I gut it and made it the shroud for my Push fan and went with Yate Loon High Speed Silents in Red LED flavor.









~Ceadder


----------



## Akvavit

New H100 member reporting in


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> I thought it was known that they are really good fans for performance, but that everyone with their Princess ears couldn't handle it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (No offense to any actual Princess'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


ROFL, funniest thing I read all day. Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> That's about right on depending on your ambients ... what were they? Also are you set up as a push only top exhaust? Those noise blockers, while they certainly don't match the stock fans static pressure, are not to bad @2.653 mm-H2O/2000rpm. Doing the same test I'm now curious how well your stock H100 fans would do @ the Low setting? In an 18min test I bet they're only 1-2c hotter?


That's a good point. I would also like to know how well they cool turned down with a fan controller in the same computer.

@JAM3S121

Are you using the block to control the fans? If so, I guess there's not really any way to do a test like this. I really wish I had of done it when I was swapping fans around, I could have used my fan controller to test them at max RPM and Minimum RPM.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akvavit*
> 
> New H100 member reporting in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's a very clean build. Nice job on the cable management. Well done. You should think about moving all your drives into one cage, and removing the unused cage for better airflow to your video card. It looks like the cages are the same ones they use in the 600T and 650D. Can you give us a picture on an angle so we can see the front too?


----------



## JAM3S121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> That's about right on depending on your ambients ... what were they? Also are you set up as a push only top exhaust? Those noise blockers, while they certainly don't match the stock fans static pressure, are not to bad @2.653 mm-H2O/2000rpm. Doing the same test I'm now curious how well your stock H100 fans would do @ the Low setting? In an 18min test I bet they're only 1-2c hotter?


My fan controller on the h100 was DOA. I was testing the fans by using both of my noiseblocker XLP's plugged into a 3 pin fan hub on my switch 810 so they always ran at full speed since I didn't have a PWM splitter.

max temps were what I posted ealier.

running the h100 on about 80% speed in using my NZXT Mesh fan controller the temps are about 2-4c better across all cores. Could go faster with the fans but I find that 80% isn't to loud and just the right amount of performance.

Not running push/pull. I feel like itll add to much noise for marginal improvements (1-3c really not worth it to me)


----------



## Akvavit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> That's a very clean build. Nice job on the cable management. Well done. You should think about moving all your drives into one cage, and removing the unused cage for better airflow to your video card. It looks like the cages are the same ones they use in the 600T and 650D. Can you give us a picture on an angle so we can see the front too?


Like this?

I have 3 HDDs and one SSD in there, but maybe if I stick the SSD somewhere else, then I reckon that could work...

Edit: There are two fans in front, leaving one out in the pic was just to show how little room there is for pushing air through..

Edit edit: Found a spot for the SSD with the help of the always brave 3M foam tape


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> My fan controller on the h100 was DOA. I was testing the fans by using both of my noiseblocker XLP's plugged into a 3 pin fan hub on my switch 810 so they always ran at full speed since I didn't have a PWM splitter.
> _max temps were what I posted ealier_.
> 
> *I was asking what your ambients were (room temps)*
> 
> running the h100 on about 80% speed in using my NZXT Mesh fan controller the temps are about 2-4c better across all cores. Could go faster with the fans but I find that 80% isn't to loud and just the right amount of performance.
> 
> *Apologies, I thought you had the H100 controller fixed/RMA'd? So the NZXT controller is fixed and you can't turn the fans down to say 30%-40%?to simulate the H100 "Low" setting?*
> 
> Not running push/pull. I feel like itll add to much noise for marginal improvements (1-3c really not worth it to me)
> 
> *Understood ... but just to confirm, your setup is 2 fan PUSH w/TOP exhaust? That's what the pics look like to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Houston? We may have a failure to communicate? ... sorry if I wasn't more specific


----------



## clubfoot

Did you guys read the latest Corsair fan review?!

http://www.anandtech.com/show/6177/choosing-the-best-120mm-radiator-fan-testing-eight-fans-with-corsairs-h80


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubfoot*
> 
> Did you guys read the latest Corsair fan review?!
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/6177/choosing-the-best-120mm-radiator-fan-testing-eight-fans-with-corsairs-h80


Very nice Find CFoot! ... Well done article that I think makes many of us look smarter than we may be ... several of us have this info in our heads, but there were some gross surprises "SickleFlow" anyone!

Bottom line many of us have been saying all along ... It is hard to justify replacing Corsairs Stock Fans @ any price!







(noted: there can be exceptions) ... AND for average overclocking the "High" settings are somewhat useless, Law of diminishing returns, even more SO with the H100!








Aditionally IMO, with the H100, I might even go as far as saying a 4 fan push/pull is definate "Overkill" if your using quality fans (stock?) in the 1st place ...

Quote Dustin/Anandtech ...

_"Corsair H80 Stock Fan ... When I met with Corsair, I asked them specifically which fans they would recommend using with the H80 since they had just released their new SP120 line. Surprisingly, they suggested that unless you're going for extreme silence, the stock fans that come with the H80 would provide the most balanced performance. Part of the reason for this is that the H80 has a built-in three speed fan controller that can change settings just by pressing a button on the waterblock"_

My conclusion, reaffirmed above, is Corsair hit it out of the park "engineering" the H80/H100 (including "stock" fans) with regards to a performance/price analogy! Throw in the fact that you have a much cleaner case (including airflow) AND easy access to your ram/motherboard components ... It's a Win/Win all around success









PS: I also wish they'd have included the Noctua NF-F12 so for convienience sakes there all in one place to get a real world same set-up comparison.


----------



## JAM3S121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Houston? We may have a failure to communicate? ... sorry if I wasn't more specific


I'd say ambient is about 65F.

I could try that maybe I will. Right now the fans are exhausing air out.. I had them pulling air in but I was getting really bad temps on my northbridge and gpu from sucking in hot air


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> I'd say ambient is about 65F.
> I could try that maybe I will. Right now the fans are exhausing air out.. I had them pulling air in but I was getting really bad temps on my northbridge and gpu from *sucking in hot air*


65F ambients! Wish I could afford that luxury in the middle of a hot summer here out west








AND I think it's a matter of "semantics" when you say "sucking in hot air" in an "Intake" configuration, that's impossible in my book with 65F ambients







... BUT I understand what you really mean in that you were blowing hot air from the H100's rad all over your motherboard and components in an intake config and that's why you switched to push/exhaust








I had a similar problem details [HERE]

Bottom line ... everything looks good to me ... nice setup


----------



## JAM3S121

Its 65F at night but during the day it gets hotter. II live in connecticut though, I think reno is a little hotter









My family doesn't have central AC or anything, but we have a window air condition down here but the room is pretty big


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akvavit*
> 
> Like this?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 3 HDDs and one SSD in there, but maybe if I stick the SSD somewhere else, then I reckon that could work...
> Edit: There are two fans in front, leaving one out in the pic was just to show how little room there is for pushing air through..
> Edit edit: Found a spot for the SSD with the help of the always brave 3M foam tape
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


There ya go. Did you see any temperature improvement on your gpu when under load?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubfoot*
> 
> Did you guys read the latest Corsair fan review?!
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/6177/choosing-the-best-120mm-radiator-fan-testing-eight-fans-with-corsairs-h80


I just checked out your link. It shows the stock fans kicking some serious performance butt, but being loud (which is exactly what we've been discussing).

However, I wasn't impressed by this:

"Our H80's fan settings are also only active with the stock fan; all others run at the full twelve volts."

Considering all the fans they tested would have worked in the H80 block, and that also all of them including the stock fans would work at 12V, I find it oddly bizarre that they would try and slightly hobble the stock fans by using them through the controller where you have no idea of the actual speed they are running at.

So, if the controller in the block was reducing the voltage to the stock fans, they may have performed a degree or two better if they were connected straight to 12V like all the other fans were. Now, 1-2c is almost nothing, but if they are benchmarking the fans they should connect them all the same way. As you can see in their chart, they could only give a range for the RPM of the stock fans, so even they are not sure how fast the fans were running.

IMO, if people are going to do a test like this, they should use a fan controller that reports the RPM of the fans, All they did in their chart is list the RPM written in the specs. For all they know, one of the fans could be defective and running slower than it should be. When I have purchased fans and connected them to my fan controller, I can see that they don't run at the same value as stated in the specifications. For example, my Scythe Slipstream fans are rated at 1900 RPM. My fan controller only runs them at 11 volts, but they still hit 2000 RPM, and may go higher if I connected them direct to 12V. Strangely enough, when the motherboard controls them using PWM, they usually run in the mid 1900s.

I'm a little disappointed in their methodology, although I think their findings are ballpark. Another little nit to pick "As far as static pressure goes, most of these fans are hanging out in about the same neighborhood."

The NZXT fan is 0.95 mm/H2O, and (excluding the stock fans) the highest fan is 3.1 mm/H2O and the next highest fan is 2.92 mm/H2O. Those fans have three times the static pressure, so how that can claim they are all in the same neighborhood is something I don't understand. Credit them that they qualified this by saying "most of these fans", but I would have said "These fans have a wide range of static pressures". It's odd that the NZXT fans came out in the middle of the pack for temps but it has the lowest static pressure, leading me to believe someone got their measurements wrong. Are the manufacturers fudging their numbers? The CoolerMaster fan did very poorly when it should have outperformed the NZXT fan. Was it defective? We can't tell because they didn't measure the RPM of the fans.

I guess this shows you can't always believe the specifications manufacturers give us for their fans, although it _could_ also indicate a defective fan.

I believe most of the people in this thread could have done a better job testing these fans.


----------



## TomcatV

That's what I Luv about you Merg', you're as anal (detail) oriented as I and you're right on with every critique' you mention above







... Especially the static pressure being in the same ballpark? WTshizzle







is he kidding?

BUT let's be fair to Justin ... for the bulk of the community --> "The average overclocker" ... that was a pretty good review for the above average user trying to make decisions on how to initially set up his system using "out of the box" components without too much, if any customization








Agreed Justin should've prefaced this or made an adendum about the fan controller and exact specs!


----------



## simonfredette

haha anal oriented ..


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> That's what I Luv about you Merg', you're as anal (detail) oriented as I and you're right on with every critique' you mention above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Especially the static pressure being in the same ballpark? WTshizzle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is he kidding?
> BUT let's be fair to Justin ... for the bulk of the community --> "The average overclocker" ... that was a pretty good review for the above average user trying to make decisions on how to initially set up his system using "out of the box" components without too much, if any customization
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed Justin should've prefaced this or made an adendum about the fan controller and exact specs!


Yeah, I admit I am a little "anal" as they say (as many enthusiasts are). Long winded too (sorry). And I do agree his findings will likely be in the same ballpark. I just think his method was a little odd.


----------



## mypg036

Here is my H100








Can't get push/pull configuration because of the case 600T.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypg036*
> 
> Here is my H100
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't get push/pull configuration because of the case 600T.


Nice and tidy. Good job. From the pic it looks like you could easily fit 2 push fans


----------



## mypg036

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> Nice and tidy. Good job. From the pic it looks like you could easily fit 2 push fans


Thanks. The push configuration is blocked by CPU power port & rams because of insufficient headroom for the case.


----------



## simonfredette

well if you dont mind a little modding use a dremel or even sand paper and take off what you need on the fan shrouds where they would hit the components, I had to do it when I modded my guardian 921 case with an H100 , its on the back side so it doesnt show .


----------



## Tarnix

Aaaah. Some really nice setups there. I need a new case with cable management, my current setup is.. well, messy :'>
Also added myself to the list.


----------



## MadMax1963

Nice setup, can't wait to install my H100 and join in..... just need for my new MB to get here









I need to ask you guys a question, I will be installing my H100 on the top part of my case with a push pull config (NZXT Phantom Case that has 2 x200mm top fans) and in some of the installations I have seen in this forum, some folks have the water tubes towards the front of the case while others have it towards the back, does it matter which way I install it? I can't quite remember if I saw it on some forum or I imagined it, but I think I read that you should install the rad with the tubes in a certain way (towards the front or back..don't remember) since it helps with the water flow and also you won't get as much air in the system.

Can someone please confirm this before I install my H100?


----------



## Gunderman456

Just thinking, with a h100 anyone try on one side to do a complete push while on the other a pull as a compromise?

I wonder if it would make a difference?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypg036*
> 
> Here is my H100
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't get push/pull configuration because of the case 600T.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome case eh? Actually, the problem is that the newer main boards like to have the RAM mounted up so high. I was using the same case and cooler with a Core 2 Quad CPU and I did get push/pull working (although I had to do a mod). Then I purchased a new i5 main board and I could no longer use push pull because of the position of the memory. I considered trimming a fan, but I would have likely had to trim the blades too, which would introduce more noise and could have hindered the airflow, so I didn't bother. Still getting great temps with just two fans.

There is a way you can do it if you're interested. It involves offsetting the rad slightly toward the outside of the case while leaving the top fans in their correct position. If you're interested in that, just go into the Graphite thread and ask about it.

You might want to consider removing your top hard drive cage since you're not using it and it blocks a lot of airflow. Also, maybe you should consider moving the cables around behind the motherboard so you can't see the cables through the square hole. Another little tip, if you're interested, is that you can colour the ends of the cables plugging into your mobo black. Some people like to buy sleeved extension kits, but I just used a black permanent marker to colour all those little wires black. Another guy used some black dye and a little paint brush and also turned them all black. That was all before I bought the Corsair AX750 psu which has all black cables.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadMax1963*
> 
> Nice setup, can't wait to install my H100 and join in..... just need for my new MB to get here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to ask you guys a question, I will be installing my H100 on the top part of my case with a push pull config (NZXT Phantom Case that has 2 x200mm top fans) and in some of the installations I have seen in this forum, some folks have the water tubes towards the front of the case while others have it towards the back, does it matter which way I install it? I can't quite remember if I saw it on some forum or I imagined it, but I think I read that you should install the rad with the tubes in a certain way (towards the front or back..don't remember) since it helps with the water flow and also you won't get as much air in the system.
> Can someone please confirm this before I install my H100?


It doesn't matter if the hoses are toward the front or the back. Which ever way you think looks the best if it will fit both ways. The way the H100 mounts up top, the tubes come out the bottom which is all you really have to worry about.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> Just thinking, with a h100 anyone try on one side to do a complete push while on the other a pull as a compromise?
> I wonder if it would make a difference?


I don't understand your question. Which "side" are you referring to? Push pull is one fan on each side, one blowing into the rad, and the other "sucking" out of the rad. Two fans for a 120 rad, four fans for a 240 rad.

Note that the H100 is so thin that adding push/pull over just push or pull doesn't make much difference. Corsair said they tested it on a bench (no case) and didn't get any difference. Still, I would prefer push/pull if I could achieve it without having to offset the H100 rad in my 600T case.


----------



## mypg036

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Awesome case eh? Actually, the problem is that the newer main boards like to have the RAM mounted up so high. I was using the same case and cooler with a Core 2 Quad CPU and I did get push/pull working (although I had to do a mod). Then I purchased a new i5 main board and I could no longer use push pull because of the position of the memory. I considered trimming a fan, but I would have likely had to trim the blades too, which would introduce more noise and could have hindered the airflow, so I didn't bother. Still getting great temps with just two fans.
> There is a way you can do it if you're interested. It involves offsetting the rad slightly toward the outside of the case while leaving the top fans in their correct position. If you're interested in that, just go into the Graphite thread and ask about it.
> You might want to consider removing your top hard drive cage since you're not using it and it blocks a lot of airflow. Also, maybe you should consider moving the cables around behind the motherboard so you can't see the cables through the square hole. Another little tip, if you're interested, is that you can colour the ends of the cables plugging into your mobo black. Some people like to buy sleeved extension kits, but I just used a black permanent marker to colour all those little wires black. Another guy used some black dye and a little paint brush and also turned them all black. That was all before I bought the Corsair AX750 psu which has all black cables.


Thanks for your useful advice/recommendation bro. May leave it as it is and may use marker to make the cable into black colour.


----------



## tw33k

Push/Pull dropped my temps 4.3c over just 2 stock fans


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Awesome case eh? Actually, the problem is that the newer main boards like to have the RAM mounted up so high. I was using the same case and cooler with a Core 2 Quad CPU and I did get push/pull working (although I had to do a mod). Then I purchased a new i5 main board and I could no longer use push pull because of the position of the memory. I considered trimming a fan, but I would have likely had to trim the blades too, which would introduce more noise and could have hindered the airflow, so I didn't bother. Still getting great temps with just two fans.
> There is a way you can do it if you're interested. It involves offsetting the rad slightly toward the outside of the case while leaving the top fans in their correct position. If you're interested in that, just go into the Graphite thread and ask about it.
> You might want to consider removing your top hard drive cage since you're not using it and it blocks a lot of airflow. Also, maybe you should consider moving the cables around behind the motherboard so you can't see the cables through the square hole. Another little tip, if you're interested, is that you can colour the ends of the cables plugging into your mobo black. Some people like to buy sleeved extension kits, but I just used a black permanent marker to colour all those little wires black. Another guy used some black dye and a little paint brush and also turned them all black. That was all before I bought the Corsair AX750 psu which has all black cables.
> It doesn't matter if the hoses are toward the front or the back. Which ever way you think looks the best if it will fit both ways. The way the H100 mounts up top, the tubes come out the bottom which is all you really have to worry about.
> I don't understand your question. Which "side" are you referring to? Push pull is one fan on each side, one blowing into the rad, and the other "sucking" out of the rad. Two fans for a 120 rad, four fans for a 240 rad.
> Note that the H100 is so thin that adding push/pull over just push or pull doesn't make much difference. Corsair said they tested it on a bench (no case) and didn't get any difference. Still, I would prefer push/pull if I could achieve it without having to offset the H100 rad in my 600T case.


What I mean is half one side pushing and half the other pulling.


----------



## simonfredette

thats an interesting idea worth trying , the problem with havig a rad as an intake is usually dust but on the other hand half of you rad would be exhausting hot air from the case and half would be taking fresh air in , granted it wont be that cool after going through the rad , short answer is try it and post your results , it wont break anything we guarantee that .


----------



## kahboom

H50 modded with Black ice 120mm rad using Feser fluid, Push Pull set as intake into the case, Mild overclock on Fx 8120 @ 4.5ghz 1.41v


----------



## Krusher33

temperature?


----------



## Samurai707

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simonfredette*
> 
> thats an interesting idea worth trying , the problem with havig a rad as an intake is usually dust but on the other hand half of you rad would be exhausting hot air from the case and half would be taking fresh air in , granted it wont be that cool after going through the rad , short answer is try it and post your results , it wont break anything we guarantee that .


For air cooling I know having two 120 fans like that is pretty optimum actually. The front would be intake, putting "presumably" cold air from outside the case in front of the CPU fans, pushing through heatsink, then out rear exhaust or rear top exhaust right there.
I think I saw that on here a year ago or so when I was still air cooling...


----------



## kahboom

A run @ 80f in my house ( I live in the desert)


----------



## Pimaddafakkr

I guess i can post my rig in here.

specs
case: Cooler Master Cosmos II Ultra Tower
Gpu: Sapphire Radeon HD7970 3GB
Gpu: XFX Radeon HD7970 3gb
Cpu: i7-3930k @4400MHz
cpu cooler: Corsair h100 with noctua fans
PSU: Corsair 1000W
HDDs: 7
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-X79-UD5, Socket-2011
fans total: 15

I am kinda unsure if I've gotten an good mount or not, or if my temperatures are good. Besides that i am pretty happy with my h100.


Spoiler: Warning: Pictures be inside this spoiler


----------



## simonfredette

looks cool , what are your load temps ? seems like you could get a higher OC than that and it would have been nice to see your idle temps a little bit lower but that depends on your ambient temperature as well !


----------



## Pimaddafakkr

My ambient temperature is about 25*C and I've tried to remount the cooler several times but it seems like the idle / load temps just stay the same.


Spoiler: Warning: picture of load temps


----------



## simonfredette

thats not too bad for load temps , about the same I get on a custom loop running my i7 960 @ 4.2 , might have a bit of wiggle room for more OCing but it depends on the chip maybe temps will go up considerably and it wont be worth it. Id leave it , looks seated right .


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimaddafakkr*
> 
> I guess i can post my rig in here.
> specs
> case: Cooler Master Cosmos II Ultra Tower
> Gpu: Sapphire Radeon HD7970 3GB
> Gpu: XFX Radeon HD7970 3gb
> Cpu: i7-3930k @4400MHz
> cpu cooler: Corsair h100 with noctua fans
> PSU: Corsair 1000W
> HDDs: 7
> Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-X79-UD5, Socket-2011
> fans total: 15
> I am kinda unsure if I've gotten an good mount or not, or if my temperatures are good. Besides that i am pretty happy with my h100.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Pictures be inside this spoiler


That's a pretty sweet case. Well done build. Your temps look fine to me. My i5, at 4.3GHz, under heavy load (Intel Burn Test) can tickle 73c.


----------



## Ceadderman

62-65 for Intel at 25c ambient is pretty reasonable considering dude is running H100.









My 1100T is running 39c under Load with an ambient of 22c.

Intel always runs hotter than AMD,(not to mention the







speed) and I've got a custom 360 loop which accounts for the temperature discrepency. I'm currently running stock. Not for much longer hopefully but...









Just some comparative feedback









~Ceadder


----------



## Krusher33

Here's a comparision that doesn't help the Corsair AI1 kits but whatever. With the H60, my 1055T was doing 3.8ghz at 1.48v and was 60 degrees under load. With an XSPC RASA 240 kit, I'm now doing 4ghz at 1.51v and it maxed out at 55 degrees during an overnight prime test.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Here's a comparision that doesn't help the Corsair AI1 kits but whatever. With the H60, my 1055T was doing 3.8ghz at 1.48v and was 60 degrees under load. With an XSPC RASA 240 kit, I'm now doing 4ghz at 1.51v and it maxed out at 55 degrees during an overnight prime test.












H60 = 120mm^2 of cooling surface
XSPC RASA 240 = 120^2(2)

Gee wonder why it runs better temps. Not that the H60 is the bestest performer of the Hydro Single stage coolers but c'mon man it's apples to oranges.









It was not my intention to bad mouth the H100 if you took it that way. I was just pointing out that the temps were very nice considering the cooler that is being used.









~Ceadder


----------



## ironsurvivor

Add me



H100


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Here's a comparision that doesn't help the Corsair AI1 kits but whatever. With the H60, my 1055T was doing 3.8ghz at 1.48v and was 60 degrees under load. With an XSPC RASA 240 kit, I'm now doing 4ghz at 1.51v and it maxed out at 55 degrees during an overnight prime test.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> H60 = 120mm^2 of cooling surface
> XSPC RASA 240 = 120^2(2)
> 
> Gee wonder why it runs better temps. Not that the H60 is the bestest performer of the Hydro Single stage coolers but c'mon man it's apples to oranges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was not my intention to bad mouth the H100 if you took it that way. I was just pointing out that the temps were very nice considering the cooler that is being used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Ha ha, not even apple to oranges. More like deli meat to roast.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Here's a comparision that doesn't help the Corsair AI1 kits but whatever. With the H60, my 1055T was doing 3.8ghz at 1.48v and was 60 degrees under load. With an XSPC RASA 240 kit, I'm now doing 4ghz at 1.51v and it maxed out at 55 degrees during an overnight prime test.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> H60 = 120mm^2 of cooling surface
> XSPC RASA 240 = 120^2(2)
> 
> Gee wonder why it runs better temps. Not that the H60 is the bestest performer of the Hydro Single stage coolers but c'mon man it's apples to oranges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was not my intention to bad mouth the H100 if you took it that way. I was just pointing out that the temps were very nice considering the cooler that is being used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ha ha, not even apple to oranges. More like deli meat to roast.
Click to expand...

Yes a much better and truer comparison.









~Ceadder


----------



## black7hought

I ordered a *Corsair H60* to replace the *Corsair A70* in my *Corsair 400R.*


----------



## OverClocker55




----------



## Ceadderman

Can that cover on the pump/block be flipped OC? Or is it like the H50 and other models?









~Ceadder


----------



## [email protected]

Guys i have a question.

I had this cooler for three years now and it's a H70 before the H80 came out.

It works fine ever since i never seen it go past 40c and up at all.

Should i keep it on since i had it on three years and nothing is wrong with it or go ahead and get the H80 and replace it new since my warranty is expired?

RISKY or should i replace my cooler asap?

Just wondered.

I never had problems but i do get a lil paranoid from time to time wondering if the cooler will quit on me or not? *knock on wood*

Advice?


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Guys i have a question.
> I had this cooler for three years now and it's a H70 before the H80 came out.
> It works fine ever since i never seen it go past 40c and up at all.
> Should i keep it on since i had it on three years and nothing is wrong with it or go ahead and get the H80 and replace it new since my warranty is expired?
> RISKY or should i replace my cooler asap?
> Just wondered.
> I never had problems but i do get a lil paranoid from time to time wondering if the cooler will quit on me or not? *knock on wood*
> Advice?


I still have the H50 in operation since it was first released on the market. I have not heard of a rash of failures yet. Keep it till something worthy in the closed loop comes to market.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Guys i have a question.
> I had this cooler for three years now and it's a H70 before the H80 came out.
> It works fine ever since i never seen it go past 40c and up at all.
> Should i keep it on since i had it on three years and nothing is wrong with it or go ahead and get the H80 and replace it new since my warranty is expired?
> RISKY or should i replace my cooler asap?
> Just wondered.
> I never had problems but i do get a lil paranoid from time to time wondering if the cooler will quit on me or not? *knock on wood*
> Advice?
> 
> 
> 
> I still have the H50 in operation since it was first released on the market. I have not heard of a rash of failures yet. Keep it till something worthy in the closed loop comes to market.
Click to expand...

Or as the temps increase despite timely routine maintenance. They're supposed to be very good regarding evaporation, but short of steel tubing they aren't evaporation proof. If it has a seal and that seal is exposed to air, the coolant can evaporate.

So this or should you get a wild hair in the tail pipe like I did about going full on loop, just run what ya brung.









~Ceadder


----------



## [email protected]

I'll keep an eye it on then. As much i would LOVE to try the H80 since it has new features i think i'll wait since my cooler is alright for the time being.

Yea i have no warranty on it but i ain't worried because this contraption is working amazingly good for three years! Corsair is a great company obviously!


----------



## _REAPER_

I love my H100 it is much easier to maintain than custom water cooling... One day when I get done with work I will put back my watercooling but until then the H100 does just fine


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I love my H100 it is much easier to maintain than custom water cooling... One day when I get done with work I will put back my watercooling but until then the H100 does just fine


Don't lie, you know you're running H100 cause otherwise the wife would have to maintain the system. And by extension it is easier. Kinda difficult to walk her through maintenance procedures from Overseas. Not that I'm dissin her mechanical skills, my Ma is a pretty mechanically able lady. So I know they do exist.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Zeus

I've had my H100 for a few day and once I got around the grinding noise from the pump, I love it. I run it with 2 Corsair SP 120mm fans @ 6v (equals 1080rpm +/- 50)


----------



## Mergatroid

I agree that there's no reason to replace it if your temperatures are stable.


----------



## Samurai707

Second H series is now in place, and working PERFECTLY!
H80 in my TJ08-E, very very snug.


----------



## Dr Acula

Thought I'd pop mine in here and join the club











Thinking of modding it a bit, maybe some clear tubing, may even add another 240mm rad and maybe a res. What would the repercussions of this be? Would I need another pump or should the H100 pump be strong enough for the added loop?

Thanks


----------



## tw33k

Mine...


----------



## _REAPER_

I like your build ^


----------



## Fallout323f




----------



## General121

Hey guys,

Can the Corsair H80 mount into just where my Rear fan goes? Granted thatll partially block the 120mm fan above it.....I assume it ships with the water already inside it? Or do I fill it? Sorry, I really dont know much about WCing yet haha. If the H100 has the ability to just fit where my rear fan goes thatd be cool too, but afaik, it takes two fan spots, yes?


----------



## Eric335

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Can the Corsair H80 mount into just where my Rear fan goes? Granted thatll partially block the 120mm fan above it.....I assume it ships with the water already inside it? Or do I fill it? Sorry, I really dont know much about WCing yet haha. If the H100 has the ability to just fit where my rear fan goes thatd be cool too, but afaik, it takes two fan spots, yes?


Yes, the H100 takes up about 2 fan spots.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Can the Corsair H80 mount into just where my Rear fan goes? Granted thatll partially block the 120mm fan above it.....I assume it ships with the water already inside it? Or do I fill it? Sorry, I really dont know much about WCing yet haha. If the H100 has the ability to just fit where my rear fan goes thatd be cool too, but afaik, it takes two fan spots, yes?


So long as your case can hold a 120mm fan in that spot and it's wide enough to accept a 120, you shouldn't have any issue mounting the Radiator there.

You have to fill it. ...

J/K







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eric335*
> 
> Yes, the H100 takes up about 2 fan spots.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So long as your case can hold a 120mm fan in that spot and it's wide enough to accept a 120, you shouldn't have any issue mounting the Radiator there.
> You have to fill it. ...
> J/K
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


Thanks guys!


----------



## Prpntblr95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Acula*
> 
> Thought I'd pop mine in here and join the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of modding it a bit, maybe some clear tubing, may even add another 240mm rad and maybe a res. What would the repercussions of this be? Would I need another pump or should the H100 pump be strong enough for the added loop?
> Thanks


I do not believe the stock pump will be able to handle the load of another rad.


----------



## Eric335

Oooh i wana join!


Yes i realize i hadnt wired it up yet









i5-3570k @ stock clock for now
Idles at about 31*C or less

Love my H100 minus the loudness!


----------



## Prpntblr95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eric335*
> 
> Oooh i wana join!
> 
> Yes i realize i hadnt wired it up yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i5-3570k @ stock clock for now
> Idles at about 31*C or less
> Love my H100 minus the loudness!


I don't get why people think it's loud. My stock fans are at 80% 24/7 and I never notice it


----------



## Samurai707

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prpntblr95*
> 
> I don't get why people think it's loud. My stock fans are at 80% 24/7 and I never notice it


I have my mATX build (posted a page or two back) right next to me on my desk, side panel off. I completely agree, running full throttle these fans are not loud at all IMHO!


----------



## SLADEizGOD

getting mines tomorrow.


----------



## Prpntblr95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> I have my mATX build (posted a page or two back) right next to me on my desk, side panel off. I completely agree, running full throttle these fans are not loud at all IMHO!


Mines about 4 feet from the head board of my bed, I'm a pretty light sleeper and It doesn't bother me at all.


----------



## simonfredette

I dont find mine too loud but they are the loudest fans in my system at 100% speed , 80% puts them par with my other fans ( nothing special just stock case fans etc )


----------



## Ceadderman

Guys, it really depends on the fans being used. My H50 with LED Yate Loon D12SH-12s' was pretty bleedin loud when I had it up in the air next to my desk where it was about level with my ears. Don't know where his is sitting so if it's in a similar settup like mine was I can see it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Samurai707

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Guys, it really depends on the fans being used. My H50 with LED Yate Loon D12SH-12s' was pretty bleedin loud when I had it up in the air next to my desk where it was about level with my ears. Don't know where his is sitting so if it's in a similar settup like mine was I can see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Right... but the argument is with _*stock*_ corsair fans...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Guys, it really depends on the fans being used. My H50 with LED Yate Loon D12SH-12s' was pretty bleedin loud when I had it up in the air next to my desk where it was about level with my ears. Don't know where his is sitting so if it's in a similar settup like mine was I can see it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right... but the argument is with _*stock*_ corsair fans...
Click to expand...

And? I didn't mean to suggest that wasn't the case. I'm just saying that there are other factors to look at besides your experience. You don't know where/how his system is set up. I know people that cut out the rear fan grill to quiet the stock fan. Vibration could also be a factor.









~Ceadder


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> And? I didn't mean to suggest that wasn't the case. I'm just saying that there are other factors to look at besides your experience. You don't know where/how his system is set up. I know people that cut out the rear fan grill to quiet the stock fan. Vibration could also be a factor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


or how quiet the house is lol , if you think fans are loud then you dont want a 4 year old ! or a nagging wife cough cough ..


----------



## Samurai707

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> And? I didn't mean to suggest that wasn't the case. I'm just saying that there are other factors to look at besides your experience. You don't know where/how his system is set up. I know people that cut out the rear fan grill to quiet the stock fan. Vibration could also be a factor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


....Your earlier post was gave us no insight on the debate because you weren't using stock fans?
If there are other factors, then we are no longer talking about stock fans being loud.
You see what I'm saying?


----------



## simonfredette

yeah but what he means is that to say a fan is loud you would have to eliminate every other factor , kind of the way they check Db ratings written on the box , the fan is running while hanging from fishing line not touching anything .. personally I find its a louder fan at 100% than my other case fans etc no matter the placement, only exception is the rear exhaust and thats probably because of the grill but it was whistling when I set it there..


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> And? I didn't mean to suggest that wasn't the case. I'm just saying that there are other factors to look at besides your experience. You don't know where/how his system is set up. I know people that cut out the rear fan grill to quiet the stock fan. Vibration could also be a factor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....Your earlier post was gave us no insight on the debate because you weren't using stock fans?
> If there are other factors, then we are no longer talking about stock fans being loud.
> You see what I'm saying?
Click to expand...

And I accounted for that by pointing out that there are OTHER factors as well. I'm OCD, if you want a break down that would put an 3 year old hopped up on NOS energy drinks to sleep I can oblige. I was just trying to keep it brief.









~Ceadder


----------



## black7hought




----------



## Yellowbeard

Still amazed at the number of views here.


----------



## nezff

Quick question guys.

Should i use the H100 fans to exhaust air or intake? I have a storm stryker case with two 120mm fans in front pulling air in. One 140 mm in rear blowing air out.


----------



## Samurai707

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> Quick question guys.
> Should i use the H100 fans to exhaust air or intake? I have a storm stryker case with two 120mm fans in front pulling air in. One 140 mm in rear blowing air out.


Generally,
Intake will keep your processor a little bit colder but will cause the other components to be a little hotter...
Whereas Exhaust will generally alleviate other components being hotter, but will in turn take the heat out of the radiator (causing your chip to be maybe a little bit warmer than with intake)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> Quick question guys.
> Should i use the H100 fans to exhaust air or intake? I have a storm stryker case with two 120mm fans in front pulling air in. One 140 mm in rear blowing air out.
> 
> 
> 
> Generally,
> Intake will keep your processor a little bit colder but will cause the other components to be a little hotter...
> Whereas Exhaust will generally alleviate other components being hotter, but will in turn take the heat out of the radiator (causing your chip to be maybe a little bit warmer than with intake)
Click to expand...

The temp differential between the two is an acceptable 2-3c difference also. I ran in Exhaust with my H50 and that's what it was for me. I could flip my fans on my 360 to see what the difference is but I'll wait until the Ambient temps are low enough to see a difference. We have a fire over in the White Salmon area that is playing havoc with the Ambient temp atm.









~Ceadder


----------



## Samurai707

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The temp differential between the two is an acceptable 2-3c difference also. I ran in Exhaust with my H50 and that's what it was for me. I could flip my fans on my 360 to see what the difference is but I'll wait until the Ambient temps are low enough to see a difference. We have a fire over in the White Salmon area that is playing havoc with the Ambient temp atm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah, the difference isn't too much, but it's still there









Those fires seem pretty crazy! Reminds me of a couple years ago when we had the insane Lake Tahoe fires







Hope everything is good over there!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The temp differential between the two is an acceptable 2-3c difference also. I ran in Exhaust with my H50 and that's what it was for me. I could flip my fans on my 360 to see what the difference is but I'll wait until the Ambient temps are low enough to see a difference. We have a fire over in the White Salmon area that is playing havoc with the Ambient temp atm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, the difference isn't too much, but it's still there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those fires seem pretty crazy! Reminds me of a couple years ago when we had the insane Lake Tahoe fires
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope everything is good over there!
Click to expand...

Yeah we're good here. It's mostly structures being at risk. I'm 45 minutes away as the crow flies so it's not likely to come this far. Last year was another story though. The fire got within 5 minutes from my ma's house before the wind inexplicably changed direction and killed the fire 3 miles from her house. The bulk of it was quickly extinguished afterward because it had already eaten what fuel there was to keep it going. I was there when the Sheriffs Deputies came round to mandatorily evac the residents of the area. Crazy crazy times with 2 horses 2 Llamas 4 Dogs lots of Cats and a 15 minute vacate notice.









Luckily we had a friend with lots of property able to put her and her crowd up for that week. The horse didn't wish to cooperate so we turned em loose to give them a fighting chance. They went back in their pen like nothing ever happened. I can do without that happening again any time soon. Although she's cut back on the animal farm.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Gunderman456

Wonder if you need to add me twice to the club (already the proud owner of the H50) with my new purchase of the H100? Go here for Build Log/Pics;

http://www.overclock.net/t/1302993/computer-building-pleasure-angst


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Can the Corsair H80 mount into just where my Rear fan goes? Granted thatll partially block the 120mm fan above it.....I assume it ships with the water already inside it? Or do I fill it? Sorry, I really dont know much about WCing yet haha. If the H100 has the ability to just fit where my rear fan goes thatd be cool too, but afaik, it takes two fan spots, yes?


You can read about it here:

http://www.corsair.com/en/cpu-cooling-kits/hydro-series-water-cooling-cpu-cooler.html

They are closed loop, meaning they are sealed at the factory. You don't have to fill it. Look through this thread and you'll find tons of pictures that should answer all your questions.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prpntblr95*
> 
> I don't get why people think it's loud. My stock fans are at 80% 24/7 and I never notice it


Agree.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yellowbeard*
> 
> Still amazed at the number of views here.


Hey, nice to see you around. Don't be such a stranger. Maybe Corsair should have a little draw for a small prize to reward the thread members? Noting big...I could use a few Corsair stickers or something....lol...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> Quick question guys.
> Should i use the H100 fans to exhaust air or intake? I have a storm stryker case with two 120mm fans in front pulling air in. One 140 mm in rear blowing air out.


That's really personal choice.

Intake: Cooler air for the rad leads to lower CPU temps, but pushes warm radiator air into the case increasing GPU and chipset temps. Also, dust is an issue.

Exhaust: Warmer case air being exhausted out of the case leads to warmer CPU temps but keeps GPU and chipset temps lower. Dust is not an issue.

In both cases we're likely talking about 5c or less. Most likely around ~3c. This could change depending on other factors, like where your cooler is located in your case, if your GPU exhausts air out the back or into the case. You may want to try both and settle on the best compromise.


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> You can read about it here:
> http://www.corsair.com/en/cpu-cooling-kits/hydro-series-water-cooling-cpu-cooler.html
> They are closed loop, meaning they are sealed at the factory. You don't have to fill it. Look through this thread and you'll find tons of pictures that should answer all your questions.
> Agree.
> Hey, nice to see you around. Don't be such a stranger. Maybe Corsair should have a little draw for a small prize to reward the thread members? Noting big...I could use a few Corsair stickers or something....lol...
> That's really personal choice.
> Intake: Cooler air for the rad leads to lower CPU temps, but pushes warm radiator air into the case increasing GPU and chipset temps. Also, dust is an issue.
> Exhaust: Warmer case air being exhausted out of the case leads to warmer CPU temps but keeps GPU and chipset temps lower. Dust is not an issue.
> In both cases we're likely talking about 5c or less. Most likely around ~3c. This could change depending on other factors, like where your cooler is located in your case, if your GPU exhausts air out the back or into the case. You may want to try both and settle on the best compromise.


thanks. I was pretty certain I was going to exhaust it, but wanted to ask here first. I have dual 120mm fans pulling air in from the front, and one 140mm exhausting air out the back.


----------



## Deacon

Well just got my H100, sadly still waiting on my new CPU and Mobo to arrive so I can put it to use...


----------



## Samurai707

Looks perty


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deacon*
> 
> Well just got my H100, sadly still waiting on my new CPU and Mobo to arrive so I can put it to use...
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1035755/
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1035752/


man, I really like those fans. bitfenix?


----------



## Deacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> man, I really like those fans. bitfenix?


Yeah I have had 4 black and 7 white ones so I switch the blades around, they look much better now. Only problem is, I have been looking everywhere for 3 more black ones to switch blades with the remaining 3 whites I have, but its sold out everywhere.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deacon*
> 
> Yeah I have had 4 black and 7 white ones so I switch the blades around, they look much better now. Only problem is, I have been looking everywhere for 3 more black ones to switch blades with the remaining 3 whites I have, but its sold out everywhere.


Was going to order bitfenix spectre pros tonight cause I thought my 200MM top fan died. But alas, it did not. But id still like case fans that arent auto running at a set speed....

Know any as good and somewhat quiet fans?


----------



## _REAPER_

I am going to put my H100 in the front drive bays on my PC when I get home so it is still pulling in cold air and keeping air moving across the rest of my PC


----------



## Mech0z

Anyone know if there is a big difference between Cooler Master Hyper TX3 (92mm) and using the corsair h40

Also how quite is the default fan? If its noisy I cant use it, I have that my current fan is flucturating so much


----------



## Deacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Was going to order bitfenix spectre pros tonight cause I thought my 200MM top fan died. But alas, it did not. But id still like case fans that arent auto running at a set speed....
> Know any as good and somewhat quiet fans?


I'm not a fan expert but, you could always go with some 1850rpm gentle typhoons or Noctua fans, and hook them up to a fan controller, or you could by the PWN version of Bitfenix Spectre.

Cheers


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eric335*
> 
> Oooh i wana join!
> 
> 
> Yes i realize i hadnt wired it up yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i5-3570k @ stock clock for now
> Idles at about 31*C or less
> 
> Love my H100 minus the loudness!


I like


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deacon*
> 
> Yeah I have had 4 black and 7 white ones so I switch the blades around, they look much better now. Only problem is, I have been looking everywhere for 3 more black ones to switch blades with the remaining 3 whites I have, but its sold out everywhere.


What bitfenix fans are they? Wonder what the black frame and white fan would look like?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> You can read about it here:
> http://www.corsair.com/en/cpu-cooling-kits/hydro-series-water-cooling-cpu-cooler.html
> They are closed loop, meaning they are sealed at the factory. You don't have to fill it. Look through this thread and you'll find tons of pictures that should answer all your questions.
> Agree.
> Hey, nice to see you around. Don't be such a stranger. Maybe Corsair should have a little draw for a small prize to reward the thread members? Noting big...I could use a few Corsair stickers or something....lol...
> That's really personal choice.
> Intake: Cooler air for the rad leads to lower CPU temps, but pushes warm radiator air into the case increasing GPU and chipset temps. Also, dust is an issue.
> Exhaust: Warmer case air being exhausted out of the case leads to warmer CPU temps but keeps GPU and chipset temps lower. Dust is not an issue.
> In both cases we're likely talking about 5c or less. Most likely around ~3c. This could change depending on other factors, like where your cooler is located in your case, if your GPU exhausts air out the back or into the case. You may want to try both and settle on the best compromise.


how bout this?


----------



## GenesisZero

I wanna join too = )

My Modded Corsair H100 w/ an i5-3570k and ASRock Z77 Extreme4 =) & Palit GTX 680 Jetstream ( Removed the side sticker )


----------



## mtbiker033

hey guys I'm using an H70 core with (2) scythe 1900 rpm slipstreams and for some reason my fans keep slowing down, then ramping up.

both of the fans are plugged into the Y cable from the pump/block, then the pump block is plugged into my cpufan1 header.

This just started yesterday but today I unplugged my pull fan on my rad and plugged it directly into another motherboard header and wallah it was turning fine this makes me think its something wrong with my H70. Even as I type this I can hear the fans slowing and then speeding back up. What's weird is in hardware monitor in windows as well as the hardware monitor in my bios the RPM's show up as fine....is my H70 dying?


----------



## Ceadderman

I'm not sure the H70 is dying but it seems like the internal fan controller is going bad. Does your Motherboard show the rpm rate of the pump? If so what is it? H50 was approximately 1400rpm for me. I don't know what the minimum spec is on H70 though I'm sure this information would help to better determine what is what.









~Ceadder


----------



## mtbiker033

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm not sure the H70 is dying but it seems like the internal fan controller is going bad. Does your Motherboard show the rpm rate of the pump? If so what is it? H50 was approximately 1400rpm for me. I don't know what the minimum spec is on H70 though I'm sure this information would help to better determine what is what.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


yes pump rpm is 1400 and that looks right, both in windows and bios, whats weird is both hardware monitor in windows and bios both show the cpu fan rpm correctly even when one of them stops/starts/and is obviously not running full speed.


----------



## Deacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> What bitfenix fans are they? Wonder what the black frame and white fan would look like?


here:



Not the best of photos since it was taken with my cell, but the white on black looks quite good.


----------



## Nastroglide

Just found this thread and joined.

Here's a Thread I started in the Peltier/TEC cooling forum. I used 3 Corsair H60's and am achieving well below ambient temps with my chiller.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1298546/heres-my-first-attempt-at-a-chiller

Any questions or comments, feel free...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtbiker033*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'm not sure the H70 is dying but it seems like the internal fan controller is going bad. Does your Motherboard show the rpm rate of the pump? If so what is it? H50 was approximately 1400rpm for me. I don't know what the minimum spec is on H70 though I'm sure this information would help to better determine what is what.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yes pump rpm is 1400 and that looks right, both in windows and bios, whats weird is both hardware monitor in windows and bios both show the cpu fan rpm correctly even when one of them stops/starts/and is obviously not running full speed.
Click to expand...

Then I would have to say no the Pump probably isn't failing but the fan controller probably is. Either that or the fan is toast and needs to be replaced. It shouldn't stop regardless of where it is in the P/P setup. If it's the pusher it should be drawn through from the Pull. If it's the Pull fan it should be driven by the Push fan. Either way it should not come to a complete stop so long as the system is under power. You might try two other fans(same spec or reasonably close to one another) and see what they do, before hatching a plan to remedy the H70 fan controller unit.









~Ceadder


----------



## Cyrious

Guys ive been meaning to ask: what is the flow pattern of the H50 waterblock? Does the water flow lengthwise down the plate or does it flow across it? I need to know because in a few weeks im getting a quad core and i need to orient the block properly so all 4 cores are cooled properly instead of one pair receiving the warm coolant off the upstream pair.


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Does anyone have a link to where you register the H60 for warranty?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyrious*
> 
> Guys ive been meaning to ask: what is the flow pattern of the H50 waterblock? Does the water flow lengthwise down the plate or does it flow across it? I need to know because in a few weeks im getting a quad core and i need to orient the block properly so all 4 cores are cooled properly instead of one pair receiving the warm coolant off the upstream pair.


Only the guys with the modded H50s' know for sure. Although I would have to say that having seen the Pump PCB when I took the cover off to sleeve mine, that I believe it runs in through the inlet gets drawn across the plate into the pump and then out. I could be wrong because it's been nearly 2 years since I did so and I no longer have it. But that's what it looked like w/o actually cracking the cooling plate from the pump.









Oh and btw, I ran the H50 on the 955 BE that I had. Works just fine stock or lapped. I did both with the same chip.









~Ceadder


----------



## Nastroglide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyrious*
> 
> Guys ive been meaning to ask: what is the flow pattern of the H50 waterblock? Does the water flow lengthwise down the plate or does it flow across it? I need to know because in a few weeks im getting a quad core and i need to orient the block properly so all 4 cores are cooled properly instead of one pair receiving the warm coolant off the upstream pair.


Here you go:

















Disregard the junk build up

Here's a H60 & H50 just for kicks:


----------



## Ceadderman

Well that explains why the H50 was such a solid cooler. There is nothing for the heat to glom to off the H60 plate. Those fins make it easier for the heat to glom onto the coolant.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z3r0_k00l75*
> 
> Does anyone have a link to where you register the H60 for warranty?


I don't believe that you have to register it. You just need to keep the Receipt and Purchase information should it go down. There aren't a whole lot of register to warranty items with Corsair. I could be wrong but it was my experience that you didn't need to with my H50, HX850 and my Dominators. I think the only thing I actually registered with them was my Voyager Flash Drive and that was to get the Rebate.









~Ceadder


----------



## Nastroglide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well that explains why the H50 was such a solid cooler. There is nothing for the heat to glom to off the H60 plate. Those fins make it easier for the heat to glom onto the coolant.


the H60 fins are sunk down in the block. I think the H50 mounts better on the cpu.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nastroglide*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well that explains why the H50 was such a solid cooler. There is nothing for the heat to glom to off the H60 plate. Those fins make it easier for the heat to glom onto the coolant.
> 
> 
> 
> the H60 fins are sunk down in the block. I think the H50 mounts better on the cpu.
Click to expand...

Not the same for heat transfer though. Even if those fins just touch the plate the damage is done for heat transfer.









~Ceadder


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I don't believe that you have to register it. You just need to keep the Receipt and Purchase information should it go down. There aren't a whole lot of register to warranty items with Corsair. I could be wrong but it was my experience that you didn't need to with my H50, HX850 and my Dominators. I think the only thing I actually registered with them was my Voyager Flash Drive and that was to get the Rebate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks. Was just wanting to make sure since I bought mine from a reseller on ebay though the h60 itself came straight from the Newegg warehouse in Memphis. I"ve already contacted them about getting a copy of the electronic invoice.


----------



## Hartk1213

I wanna join here is my H50 i just bought brandnew off craiglist for $20.00 i put my own fans on it, they are Rosewill RFX-120mm and they keep it cool at around 42c load and about 25c idle and my CPU is OCd to 4.0 Ghz


----------



## Leo_Da_vinci

H100 with 3570 K running at 4.7 GHz 67 Celsius under full load.



















yes I know that the fans and radiator little ghetto but I have no room in the case because I use the antek 620 for my 570...... I need a new case.

anyone selling??


----------



## Nastroglide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not the same for heat transfer though. Even if those fins just touch the plate the damage is done for heat transfer.


No, I mean the copper block has fins. It's machined with fins down in the block.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nastroglide*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not the same for heat transfer though. Even if those fins just touch the plate the damage is done for heat transfer.
> 
> 
> 
> No, I mean the copper block has fins. It's machined with fins down in the block.
Click to expand...

Ahhh I see it now. It looks flat from front to back. Still I think that the H50 is the better performer based on the setup.









Thanks for clearing that up though.









~Ceadder


----------



## Nastroglide

Not sure which one performs better. I started w my old H50 when I built my chiller, but switched it to a H60. My temps are 13 13 5 5 right now with no load. Seeing how this is the corsair hydro series thread, I'll throw in a couple pics:


----------



## General121

Hey guys. Trying to decide something here. Is it really worth it to switch from a hyper 212+ to the H80?

My temps are just like Leo da vinci's temps with his i5 3570k @ 4.7ghz and my i5 2500k runs around 70c max folding I believe. I am at 4.7GHz @ 1.42v.

Also might be buying these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103052
to replace my antec fans that are controlled by a 3 slide thingy that has low-med-high. On high theyre quite noisy and probably not the best. Plus the Blue LEDs, though are sexy, keep me up some nights. And I cant go in sleep mode since its folding. XD

edit: That 70C temp is also with a 670 in there, full load too @ 70c.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nastroglide*
> 
> Here you go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Disregard the junk build up
> Here's a H60 & H50 just for kicks:


Well thanks for the info. Also, what is long term corrosion like on the H series? I know that since the rad is aluminum and the plate and fins are copper and that they shouldnt be mixed in a loop because of corrosion issues.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nastroglide*
> 
> Not sure which one performs better. I started w my old H50 when I built my chiller, but switched it to a H60. My temps are 13 13 5 5 right now with no load. Seeing how this is the corsair hydro series thread, I'll throw in a couple pics:










3x1400 rpm!!!









That's an awesome mod. Who needs fans and Radiators when you have a Chiller.









~Ceadder


----------



## Nastroglide

Not much corrosion to speak of. I ran mine for maybe a year before modding it. All that junk on the plate is from the feser coolant I used after modding it. Also, it had a small amount of bubbles in the loop so I think that's why there was so much build up. I did just notice a little build up in the fitting on the rad too though and that looks like corrosion:









Thanks Ceadder.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leo_Da_vinci*
> 
> H100 with 3570 K running at 4.7 GHz 67 Celsius under full load.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yes I know that the fans and radiator little ghetto but I have no room in the case because I use the antek 620 for my 570...... I need a new case.
> anyone selling??


thats not ghetto , mine was ghetto..



not too bad with the H100 after the mod , the ghetto is when I switched to full loop and hadnt received my new case yet ...


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtbiker033*
> 
> hey guys I'm using an H70 core with (2) scythe 1900 rpm slipstreams and for some reason my fans keep slowing down, then ramping up.
> both of the fans are plugged into the Y cable from the pump/block, then the pump block is plugged into my cpufan1 header.
> This just started yesterday but today I unplugged my pull fan on my rad and plugged it directly into another motherboard header and wallah it was turning fine this makes me think its something wrong with my H70. Even as I type this I can hear the fans slowing and then speeding back up. What's weird is in hardware monitor in windows as well as the hardware monitor in my bios the RPM's show up as fine....is my H70 dying?


I was not aware the H70 Core used an internal fan controller. As far as I know, it only has one connector. That would be the pump. I don't think you should be installing the fans on the same connector as the pump.

I had an H70, and other than the fans, I believe it to be exactly the same (the H70 Core does not ship with fans). I was using the same Scythe 1900 RPM fans are you are using, except I was using the PWM version (I still have them). If I was you, I would plug the fans in somewhere else. Those fans draw just over 1/2 Amp each, so you're pulling a lot of juice from your CPU_FAN header. I would recommend first, checking your BIOS and make sure your CPU_FAN header is set to run the CPU fan full speed all the time. You do not want your pump being regulated.

Second, plug the fans either into: 1. A fan controller, 2. A different header, such as a CHASSIS_FAN header or 3. plug them direct into the PSU using a Molex connector (My H70 came with a molex to 3-pin fan adapter). If you really want the best option for your H70, purchase some PWM fans and a PWM splitter. Plug the pump from the block into a Chassis_FAN header set to run 100% all the time. Plug the PWM fans using the PWM splitter into the CPU_FAN header. This setup will allow your pump to run 100% all the time, while your fans will be regulated by your CPU_FAN header so they will be slow under small load and fast under heavy load. Check and see if your mobo has two CPU_FAN headers (mine does). This will allow you to eliminate the PWM splitter by plugging one PWM fan into each header.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtbiker033*
> 
> yes pump rpm is 1400 and that looks right, both in windows and bios, whats weird is both hardware monitor in windows and bios both show the cpu fan rpm correctly even when one of them stops/starts/and is obviously not running full speed.


This is because you are plugging your fans and pump into the same header. The header is reading the pump RPM, not the fans. Plug the fans in elsewhere.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Then I would have to say no the Pump probably isn't failing but the fan controller probably is. Either that or the fan is toast and needs to be replaced. It shouldn't stop regardless of where it is in the P/P setup. If it's the pusher it should be drawn through from the Pull. If it's the Pull fan it should be driven by the Push fan. Either way it should not come to a complete stop so long as the system is under power. You might try two other fans(same spec or reasonably close to one another) and see what they do, before hatching a plan to remedy the H70 fan controller unit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The H70 does not have a fan controller.


----------



## Ceadderman

Possible Merg, but I was reasonably sure it did since it has 2 connections coming from the block specifically for fans. Either it's dedicated power for full speed or it's got an IFC that is able to run PWM.

I could be wrong of course but that's the way it looks to me on the surface of the unit.









As far as Core goes versus the Full unit, Core is only named Core for it's lack of fans. It's still capable of everything that the complete H70 is. I think that Corsair started offering Core models due to people wanting a cheaper unit that did not care about Fans because they have their fans already or have something better in mind.









~Ceadder


----------



## Seanay00

I have a H70 sitting in the cupboard after i upgraded to a H100. I was gonna use it on an AMD build out the spare parts i have laying around, which includes a Crosshair IV formula. Any tips/ideas on making this cool better?? It's gonna be cooling a 965 BE so i wanna get it cranking.


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanay00*
> 
> I have a H70 sitting in the cupboard after i upgraded to a H100. I was gonna use it on an AMD build out the spare parts i have laying around, which includes a Crosshair IV formula. Any tips/ideas on making this cool better?? It's gonna be cooling a 965 BE so i wanna get it cranking.


push pull with good fans , I mean an H70 isnt bad but it doesnt compare to an H100 with 4 good fans running .. If you have good venting in the case and your rad has a good pair of fans running at 80%+ you should get decent results. Also , if the block has been sitting around it goes without saying that you are going to need new and good thermal paste .


----------



## nezff

Hey guys. I was wondering about the H100 backplate being loose after installing the standoffs.
Havent installed the cooler yet, but was wondering why there is slack?


----------



## Deacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> Hey guys. I was wondering about the H100 backplate being loose after installing the standoffs.
> Havent installed the cooler yet, but was wondering why there is slack


Are you using the right standoffs? Theres 2 types the normal standoffs and the LGA 2011 standoffs, the LGA 2011 are the shorter ones, if that isn't the cases then you got a problem.


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deacon*
> 
> Are you using the right standoffs? Theres 2 types the normal standoffs and the LGA 2011 standoffs, the LGA 2011 are the shorter ones, if that isn't the cases then you got a problem.


The standoffs that are both equal in length for my gigabyte sniper 3 board (lga 1155). I talked to corsair tech support and they said this is normal. When the thumb screws are put on the backplate and cooler should "sandwich" together.

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=108147
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=104576


----------



## pabszilla

I also had the loose backplate and found a similar thread on Corsair's forum. Mounted the H100 and voila, no more wiggle.


----------



## Nastroglide

Yeah, I just noticed that slack on my H60. Went ahead and installed it and its been good.


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pabszilla*
> 
> I also had the loose backplate and found a similar thread on Corsair's forum. Mounted the H100 and voila, no more wiggle.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nastroglide*
> 
> Yeah, I just noticed that slack on my H60. Went ahead and installed it and its been good.


I figured this was normal, and there was a reason that corsair has this wiggle. I just was concerned that once the pump was installed, that the whole unit would go up and down.


----------



## Deacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> I figured this was normal, and there was a reason that corsair has this wiggle. I just was concerned that once the pump was installed, that the whole unit would go up and down.


Well I couldn't say for sure, since I haven't mount mine yet, waiting on my new mobo and processor, but good to know its like that.


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deacon*
> 
> Well I couldn't say for sure, since I haven't mount mine yet, waiting on my new mobo and processor, but good to know its like that.


I talked to three different techs today from corsair and they said when the pump is installed, that is "should" be tight


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Possible Merg, but I was reasonably sure it did since it has 2 connections coming from the block specifically for fans. Either it's dedicated power for full speed or it's got an IFC that is able to run PWM.
> I could be wrong of course but that's the way it looks to me on the surface of the unit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as Core goes versus the Full unit, Core is only named Core for it's lack of fans. It's still capable of everything that the complete H70 is. I think that Corsair started offering Core models due to people wanting a cheaper unit that did not care about Fans because they have their fans already or have something better in mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Both here:

http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1395/3/

and here:

http://www.corsair.com/en/cpu-cooling-kits/hydro-series-water-cooling-cpu-cooler/hydro-series-h70-core-high-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler.html

show only one connector for the H70 block/pump. All it needs is a single connector for 12V going to the pump, and the Tac signal from the pump, which are both included in the one connector. You don't plug the fans into the block. Mine came with a Y-Cable, two "resistor"cables to reduce the speed of the fans, and a molex to 3-pin adapter so the fans could be run direct from the PSU. The H70 was just like the H50, only the pump/block was smaller.

The only Corsair Hydro series coolers that have fan controllers in the block are the H80 and H100. The advent of a fan controller in the block was not available from Corsair before those two units. Even the H60 does not have a block fan controller.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanay00*
> 
> I have a H70 sitting in the cupboard after i upgraded to a H100. I was gonna use it on an AMD build out the spare parts i have laying around, which includes a Crosshair IV formula. Any tips/ideas on making this cool better?? It's gonna be cooling a 965 BE so i wanna get it cranking.


Better fans is about the only thing that can be done without a serious mod. If you don't mind cutting the hoses off, you can use rubber hoses and add a res to the loop, but it still won't have much effect on your temps. It should cause it to take longer to reach maximum temp though because of the added coolant in the res.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> Hey guys. I was wondering about the H100 backplate being loose after installing the standoffs.
> Havent installed the cooler yet, but was wondering why there is slack?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I had this exact same thing on my H100. I used some of the red paper washers between the backplate and the motherboard, and that snugged them up nicely.


----------



## nezff

did you try your pump on there before adding the washers? Corsair said it should tighten up once the pump is installed, if it doesnt, Ill get another cooler.


----------



## Mergatroid

Yes, I did try it first. I used it for a month or so, before disassembling one day for another reason. It was then I noticed the play. It was really no big deal. Many people don't use any washers and it seems to be working fine for them. With all the evidence shown here, I don't think it made any difference. I added the washers because I didn't want to take any chances, but from what I see here it likely wouldn't have mattered even if I hadn't.

In fact, when I first got it I had been using an H70. I got an average temperature reduction of 7c across all my cores when I installed the H100, so I know it was working properly. I sure wouldn't go to another cooler over such a trivial thing as this. Those paper washers are a dime a dozen. If it concerns you so much, just add the washers.


----------



## Milestailsprowe

I have a H60 right now. Is a H80 a worth the money to upgrade? What the opinion on the H40? I was looking at it for a friends box


----------



## Mergatroid

From the H60 to the H80? That's pretty tough to say for sure. From the H70 to the H80 I would expect about 4~ 5c. I have never compared the H60 to the H70, so I couldn't be too sure. If 4 or 5c is important to you, then go for it. If not I would stick with the H60. As for the H40, it looks OK but the warranty is not as long as Corsair's other coolers and since it uses rubber tubes evaporation may be an issue after a few years.

The H60 is only $10 more than the H40, and I would rather have an H60 over an H40 myself. The H40 looks like an H50 or H60 rad with an H70 pump/block. The H60 has a newer designed pump/block, so I would rather have it (plus no rubber hoses). If space is tight and you need the flexibility of rubber hoses, then you could try the H40.

If you're looking to upgrade, why not sell your H60 to your buddy at a fair price and use that to offset the cost of an H80?

Here is a good comparison of the H60/80/100:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/5054/corsair-hydro-series-h60-h80-and-h100-reviewed/5

With his setup and a i7 overclocked to 4.8GHz, he got a ~5c difference between the H60 and the H80, which is not bad.

One last thing to consider. The H60 comes with a 4-pin PWM fan (I believe), which you can plug into your CPU_FAN header and allow your mother board to regulate the fan. The H80 comes with a fan controller in the block, it will operate the two fans in any one of three ranges which is OK, but it will not give you as great a regulation as the CPU_FAN header. Of course, you could come up with your own way to run the fans if you like (such as using a aftermarket fan controller, or using your motherboard (if it will control 3-pin fans), or purchasing a pair of PWM fans and a PWM splitter to let your motherboard control the fans the same way your H60 fans are controlled). If you don't mind the way Corsair regulates the fans with the block, then you should be happy setting the fans to one of the ranges using the button on the H80 block. Most people are happy using that method.


----------



## nezff

Has anyone painted their Rad? Im thinking white on the H100


----------



## simonfredette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> Has anyone painted their Rad? Im thinking white on the H100


a lot of people paint rads , just tape off the fins because you dont want paint on those but otherwise its not a problem . Also , if you want to go for a less permanent technique you can buy vinyl wrap in the color you want and use that , decent for psu's too .


----------



## yoi

i got some cool pics from 2 of my recent custom builds :







all shots taken with a HTC inspire phone


----------



## GenesisZero

Just passing by = )

Corsair H100 Tubing mod and faceplate mod =)


----------



## simonfredette

looks sweet , at that point you were almost better off going custom loop but congrats on sticking to the H100 and making it your own , looks great !


----------



## GenesisZero

I have a plan to make a custom loop next year , had the H100 modded to make it look one & because I still don't have a budget for a custom loop T.T They are so expensive >.>


----------



## dusters16

First Question:
I did a "Search this Thread" and it did not find any LanBoy Air cases at all. I was wondering if any of you remember seeing any in this thread, particularly with an H100? I am going through the Lan Boy Air thread right now and bookmarking any LBA's that have the H100 (there are a couple so far that i have come across) . I am thinking about making a new build and I want it portable, but powerful. with superior cooling, with a standard ATX mobo. (Z77 Sabertooth)

Second question is:
Have any of you used the new Corsair fans?
The AF and SP series, both in Performance versions. Here is a great video going over them.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9uUXt7mE6Qg

I am thinking of using an H100 in push/pull (hopefully in the LBA).
Setting the H100 up as exhaust
Static Pressure fans pushing
Air Flow fans as pulling

As a general rule for the LanBoy Air, all fans should be Intake, causing positive pressure, for dust prevention. For best results on the H100, it will be mounted as exhaust. I am thinking that the amount of air that is being exhausted through the H100 will not have a large impact on the overall positive pressure in the case. It would have an impact on the immediate area around the H100.
At this point, this is all theory and speculation to me, so once I get the funds to build this system I guess I have some testing to do.

Thank you in advance!


----------



## Mergatroid

Have you tried the Lanboy Air club?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1038766/official-antec-lanboy-air-case-club

You should use static pressure fans for both push and pull. "airflow" fans are case fans. It's best to use matched fans if you can. Note that those Static Pressure "Performance" fans from Corsair don't have as good a static pressure as the stock H100 fans do. Their main advantage is that they're quiet and they look nice. Their static pressure is about half the stock fans.

The best results on the H100 would require it being used as intake, not exhaust. Personally though, I prefer exhaust so I don't get a lot of dust in my rad, and I don't pump warm air into my case.


----------



## Nastroglide

I'm using the SP120 high performance edition fans on my H60's on my chiller. I think they are performing great. Not loud, and they're removing so much heat from my tec's on the chiller that I am sitting at 15 15 9 9 (realtemp) Q6600 @ 3.0ghz. I've got them in a CM Cosmos 1000 case, so that may be why there's not much noise. I think they're working great.

Also, I like going with exhaust. When I first starting using a H50, I went intake and it was heating up my RAM and would BSOD.


----------



## _REAPER_

I am looking for a shroud for my H100 does anyone know of a good shroud they could recommend


----------



## simonfredette

pull the fans out of a couple cheap fans and use those !


----------



## Mergatroid

Yeah, you can use the chassis of some gutted fans, or you can use something like these:

http://www.frozencpu.com/search.html?mv_profile=keyword_search&mv_session_id=z5hybfpQ&searchspec=shroud&go.x=0&go.y=0


----------



## dusters16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Have you tried the Lanboy Air club?
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1038766/official-antec-lanboy-air-case-club
> You should use static pressure fans for both push and pull. "airflow" fans are case fans. It's best to use matched fans if you can. Note that those Static Pressure "Performance" fans from Corsair don't have as good a static pressure as the stock H100 fans do. Their main advantage is that they're quiet and they look nice. Their static pressure is about half the stock fans.
> The best results on the H100 would require it being used as intake, not exhaust. Personally though, I prefer exhaust so I don't get a lot of dust in my rad, and I don't pump warm air into my case.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nastroglide*
> 
> I'm using the SP120 high performance edition fans on my H60's on my chiller. I think they are performing great. Not loud, and they're removing so much heat from my tec's on the chiller that I am sitting at 15 15 9 9 (realtemp) Q6600 @ 3.0ghz. I've got them in a CM Cosmos 1000 case, so that may be why there's not much noise. I think they're working great.
> Also, I like going with exhaust. When I first starting using a H50, I went intake and it was heating up my RAM and would BSOD.


Cool thanks guys.
I sub'd the LBA thread and am going through it right now, mainly for ideas for when I purchase my LBA
I did not know that the fans used for the h100 for so good and SP, Ill have to pull my friend Google out of bed and get him to work


----------



## Mergatroid

Yeah, the H100 fans have a static pressure of 7.7 mm/H2O while the Corsair SP120 High Performance SP fans are 3.1mm/H2O (less than half) and the "quiet" edition SP120 is only 1.29 mm/H2O. Personally, I don't see where they get off calling those "performance" at all. 3.1mm is OK, but 1.29mm really sucks. (actually, it doesn't suck, which is the problem). The cheap crappy "casino" fans I'm using right now (because I'm too lazy to put my Scythe Slip Stream fans back in) have 2.18 mm/H20 which is better than the Corsair "quiet edition" SP fans. That's pretty embarrassing if you ask me. The Scythe Slipstream 1900 RPM PWM fans I was using are case fans, and they don't even list static pressure, yet they were about 5c better than these "Casino" fans, which have better specs than Corsair's "Quiet Edition" fans.

FYI, if you are planning on using a fan controller for your H100 fans, consider purchasing another set of the stock fans from Corsair. Considering they perform so well, you can always use the fan controller to turn them down. I bet at about half speed they perform about the same as the SP120 High Performance fans.

If the stock fans were PWM I'd still be using them.


----------



## dusters16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Yeah, the H100 fans have a static pressure of 7.7 mm/H2O while the Corsair SP120 High Performance SP fans are 3.1mm/H2O (less than half) and the "quiet" edition SP120 is only 1.29 mm/H2O. Personally, I don't see where they get off calling those "performance" at all. 3.1mm is OK, but 1.29mm really sucks. (actually, it doesn't suck, which is the problem). The cheap crappy "casino" fans I'm using right now (because I'm too lazy to put my Scythe Slip Stream fans back in) have 2.18 mm/H20 which is better than the Corsair "quiet edition" SP fans. That's pretty embarrassing if you ask me. The Scythe Slipstream 1900 RPM PWM fans I was using are case fans, and they don't even list static pressure, yet they were about 5c better than these "Casino" fans, which have better specs than Corsair's "Quiet Edition" fans.
> FYI, if you are planning on using a fan controller for your H100 fans, consider purchasing another set of the stock fans from Corsair. Considering they perform so well, you can always use the fan controller to turn them down. I bet at about half speed they perform about the same as the SP120 High Performance fans.
> If the stock fans were PWM I'd still be using them.


WOW !!!
Hey thanks dude!
Maybe I will get 2 more stock fans for the h100 like you say.

I did not know that they were so good at SP.

+rep 4 u


----------



## Eric335

Hey all,

Having major problems with my H100 right now. I was messsing around with the fans on the H100 because they are so loud, unplugging and replugging them in, when all of a sudden the H100 died. Im not 100% sure when it did, but i remember that the LEDs turned off, and the button wasnt working although the pump was on. So i turned the whole computer on/off, and after that it worked, until it stopped again, and now it wont turn back on.

The pump is on and running, but the LEDs are not on, and the fans dont turn on







What should i do??? I opened a RMA with Corsair already, but id so much rather fix this than install the damn stock heatsink for a week....

Im running the fans off chassis_fan locations, since the pump is still running . Its keeping me at about 34C idle in a 77F room

Eric

Edit: Here is my thread if you want to reply:

Thread on my dead H100


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dusters16*
> 
> WOW !!!
> Hey thanks dude!
> Maybe I will get 2 more stock fans for the h100 like you say.
> I did not know that they were so good at SP.
> +rep 4 u


Thanks. It all depends on what you're looking for in a fan. Performance or reduced noise. If you want pure performance, the stock fans are some of the best. I really wish they made them PWM though. If you want quiet, then you might want to look into some other fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eric335*
> 
> Hey all,
> Having major problems with my H100 right now. I was messsing around with the fans on the H100 because they are so loud, unplugging and replugging them in, when all of a sudden the H100 died. Im not 100% sure when it did, but i remember that the LEDs turned off, and the button wasnt working although the pump was on. So i turned the whole computer on/off, and after that it worked, until it stopped again, and now it wont turn back on.
> The pump is on and running, but the LEDs are not on, and the fans dont turn on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What should i do??? I opened a RMA with Corsair already, but id so much rather fix this than install the damn stock heatsink for a week....
> Im running the fans off chassis_fan locations, since the pump is still running . Its keeping me at about 34C idle in a 77F room
> Eric
> Edit: Here is my thread if you want to reply:
> Thread on my dead H100


Looks like your fan controller died. Unfortunately I can't see any other recourse for you other than doing the RMA thing.

Note, it's best not to plug and unplug things into or from any parts in your PC without shutting it down first. To be fair, this may not have caused your problem, but you can't be 100% sure of that.


----------



## Eric335

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Thanks. It all depends on what you're looking for in a fan. Performance or reduced noise. If you want pure performance, the stock fans are some of the best. I really wish they made them PWM though. If you want quiet, then you might want to look into some other fans.
> Looks like your fan controller died. Unfortunately I can't see any other recourse for you other than doing the RMA thing.
> Note, it's best not to plug and unplug things into or from any parts in your PC without shutting it down first. To be fair, this may not have caused your problem, but you can't be 100% sure of that.


Thanks for the advice. I guessed something as simple as a fan wouldnt hurt, but it did







Now i have to find the time to uninstall the H100 and ship it and wait 2 or 3 weeks.....


----------



## dusters16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dusters16*
> 
> WOW !!!
> Hey thanks dude!
> Maybe I will get 2 more stock fans for the h100 like you say.
> I did not know that they were so good at SP.
> +rep 4 u
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. It all depends on what you're looking for in a fan. Performance or reduced noise. If you want pure performance, the stock fans are some of the best. I really wish they made them PWM though. If you want quiet, then you might want to look into some other fans.
> 
> .
Click to expand...

I'll be using a fan controller anyways so that shouldnt be an issue

Sent from my HTC Evo 4G LTE


----------



## [email protected]

I have been using the H70 for over 3 years now lol. It still works yes. Amazing product Corsair has made. However i saw extreme jumps to 40c for the first time last night and that made me a lil nervous.

Looks like i will have to buy a new cooler next week just to play it safe since i have no warranty on it now. It's amazing how these coolers last though! It still works fine for the time being i ain't worried but i will be when winter comes around the corner later.


----------



## vf-

Is the pump still consistently spinning at 1400rpm? less water slushing about than you can remember?


----------



## xlink64

Great Odin's Raven.... LOOK AT THE TEMPERATURES!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUbpb23yTK8&list=UU_SN80_V2GymyCWM2oTYTeg&index=2&feature=plcp


----------



## Mergatroid

Yeah, that's pretty funny....lol...


----------



## dusters16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xlink64*
> 
> Great Odin's Raven.... LOOK AT THE TEMPERATURES!!!
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUbpb23yTK8&list=UU_SN80_V2GymyCWM2oTYTeg&index=2&feature=plcp


40 fans, your cooling argument is invalid. - 10c, right....

Sent from my HTC Evo 4G LTE


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dusters16*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xlink64*
> 
> Great Odin's Raven.... LOOK AT THE TEMPERATURES!!!
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUbpb23yTK8&list=UU_SN80_V2GymyCWM2oTYTeg&index=2&feature=plcp
> 
> 
> 
> 40 fans, your cooling argument is invalid. - 10c, right....
> 
> Sent from my HTC Evo 4G LTE
Click to expand...

Tom says it's a Troll vid. You have to stay thru the credits though.









~Ceadder


----------



## simonfredette

yeah , it wouldnt even get you under ambient , if so barely .. only so much heat you can take away from a rad and if you compress air using fans ( like a jet engine compressor .) it heats up the air . but a bunch of fans in a row wouldnt compress anyways ..


----------



## xlink64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Tom says it's a Troll vid. You have to stay thru the credits though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yea, it's still hilarious though.


----------



## abablitz

Specs:
i7 2600k OCed to 4.0 ghz
Corsair Vengeance 16GB 1600mhz Ram
Corsair H60 Cooling System + Corsair Sp120 static pressure fans x2
Coolermaster Haf XM Case + Window Panel
Western Digital Black Caviar 1TB
Coolermaster Silent Pro Gold 800w PSU
Asus DVDRW+
Asrock P67 Extreme 4 Gen 3 Motherboard
XFX Radeon HD 6950 2GB x2 Xfire Oced 5%
Arctic Silver Thermal 5 Compound
200mm x3 Megaflow Fans

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/ [...] 74f641.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/ [...] 12b88c.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/ [...] f71b55.jpg


----------



## abablitz




----------



## vf-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xlink64*
> 
> Yea, it's still hilarious though.


I'll bet somebody out there stopped the video 5 minutes in then went away and ordered a lot of those fans.

Very nice, abablitz!


----------



## Mergatroid

The funny thing is the guy in the comments saying someone on another site claimed it was fake, and then he calls the guy a moron. Lol, that's awesome.

He had me too, but I was asking for more proof showing some wet paper freezing at the rad. I thought there was something wrong with his main board sensors or something, but then it got to the end and I had a good laugh.


----------



## Ceadderman

I looked at those boxes the Radiator and fans were sitting on and figured there had to be some foul play at work. What was funnier still was that he was all like "can't even hear them" "these fans are quite epic, they hardly make a sound" when you could clearly hear them over my 3 yates and I didn't have the sound jacked up at all. I basically had him at less than in the same room volume and those fans came in loud and clear on my 2.1 channel Logitechs. Then I watched the credits and saw how much time there was an I waited.

They weren't SUPER DUPER loud so I figure they have to be fairly quiet when you only have a few of them. 40 fans is a bit much though.









~Ceadder


----------



## _REAPER_

I am thinking about changing out my fans on my H100 from CM Excalibur to the Corsair ones does anyone have any temp comparison


----------



## mtbiker033

so I decided to put my x58 rig back together and used an H100, max temps at 4.2ghz with the i7-970 (21x200) was 71 - 72 in p95 small FFT.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I looked at those boxes the Radiator and fans were sitting on and figured there had to be some foul play at work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That video was hilarious ... and from the begining that was Tom's original intent







... he finally admits it around 12:30min in saying this is the 1st time I actually had to laugh/smile "at myself". Then he goes on to saying he wouldn't be surprised if a majority of the viewers actually took the whole test/setup seriously







again laughing at the whole situation









Ceadderman ... NICE tribute to Steve Sabol! He enriched and entertained countless lives and will be sorely missed, I don't know if any one person could ever replace him









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am thinking about changing out my fans on my H100 from CM Excalibur to the Corsair ones does anyone have any temp comparison


Which corsair fans? If you mean the stock ones (Static Pressure 1.6-7.7 mmH2O ) and depending on ambients / overclock(s) (benching or 24/7 OC's) / setup/configuration(s) (case & radiator push-pull?) / workload (benches or real world) maybe 2-5c improvement. If you mean the very popular Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition (Static Pressure (mm/H2O): 3.1 mm/H2O) fans I doubt you will see any improvement over your pretty decent CM Excaliburs (Static Pressure 0.75 - 3.53 mmH2O) but again *"YMMV"* all depends on many factors mentioned above









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtbiker033*
> 
> so I decided to put my x58 rig back together and used an H100, max temps at 4.2ghz with the i7-970 (21x200) was 71 - 72 in p95 small FFT.


And your question is? ... Those temps look Good, possibly a bit high for P95 with an externally mounted rad, depends on Ambients? ... Again *"YMMV"* depends on a lot of factors as mentioned above, additionally are you going to permantently use the stock fans in a pull config, leaving your components on the LianLi bench as pictured? If so I'd mount the radiator differently (verticle) with fans pushing







... like Tom's OC3D video [HERE] ... BUT without the 40 fan config LoL


----------



## Ceadderman

Thanks I can't take credit for it. I got the pic off Google Images the moment I found out he lost his battle with Cancer. It is because of the Sabols that I am a fan of the NFL. Before I ever chose one team over another I'd been intently watching the game since I was a pup in knee pants. When we lived on Oahu we didn't get the regular games but we got the Pro Bowl and I couldn't wait to watch it on TV. Then we moved back to the States an I really got hooked and chose my allegiance when O.J. was traded to the 49ers. He was my favorite player back then. So when he was traded my allegiance was born. Been a fan of the 9ers ever since. Sucks we lost today but that's what happens when you abandon your game strategy to take advantage of another team's weakness and they adopt the strategy that helped make you successful. Doesn't help when you're 4th and Goal and decide to take the 3 instead of answering the challenge the other team dropped at your feet in their series and scoring on 4th an Goal. To me that was when all the momentum shifted to the Visqueens.









Anyyyyyywaaaaay... _REAPER_ is looking at the newer Corsair performance series fans for hit kit. I would get some but that would mean I'd have to double sided seal my fans to my Rads to get a good seal. I have decoupler shrouds under my 20mm Yates so they're sealed pretty well. Can't do that with my Koolance Studs and standard 25mm fans. Besides the price is a bit too much for me. I would be best served saving for my GPU block first.









I mighta got some when I had the H50 though.









~Ceadder


----------



## mtbiker033

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Again *"YMMV"* depends on a lot of factors as mentioned above, additionally are you going to permantently use the stock fans in a pull config, leaving your components on the LianLi bench as pictured? If so I'd mount the radiator differently (verticle) with fans pushing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... like Tom's OC3D video [HERE] ... BUT without the 40 fan config LoL


thanks for the suggestions, yes for now I do plan on keeping this set-up on the test bench and will get the dual air duct accessory and mount the rad vertically:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=130_210_750_758&products_id=28993&zenid=30ac783e91a4c7d7a63250370f755935

and also as you suggested change the fans to push! I would probably go to push pull but will either get (4) new fans or get (2) more of the stock fans which seem to work pretty well. Is there a preferred fan suggestion for the H100?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Been a fan of the 9ers ever since. Sucks we lost today ... ~Ceadder


Hahh ... were're kindred spirits of some sort? ... I've been a 49er fan through all the High's AND lows since I was a kid also, you may be too young to remember John Brodie







... yesterday was hard to explain especially with a Harbaugh coached team, I think the substitute refs are definately effecting the integraty of the game and making it harder to prep/coach the boys up









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtbiker033*
> 
> I would probably go to push pull but will either get (4) new fans or get (2) more of the stock fans which seem to work pretty well. Is there a preferred fan suggestion for the H100?


You'll get as many fan recommendations as you will a users definition of "Fan Noise" and if in their opinion they are "Loud" or Not!? ... Initially I'd try just the 2 stock fans in a push position, especially If your going to use spacers/shrouds,. It's hard to beat the H100 stock fans for performance although many seem to complain they're too "Loud"







At your overclock/temps I bet you could get away with setting them on "Low", that's what I do for my 24/7 overclock (4.6GHz) and they work fine and are not too noisey for me at that setting








Many of us have found for the average 24/7 overclock that a push/pull config is just overkill ... Law of diminishing returns regarding the heat exchange capacity of the H100 rad and pump/heat block, BUT it is a way to keep temps competitive with the Stock fans while making things quieter with the proper combination if too much "noise" is the concern.
I'm still curious though, what were your ambients for the above temps? I'm guessing 72-75F+ roomtemps?


----------



## rationalthinking

Where can I get a custom plate made for the top of my H80?

Just want a simple plate made, nothing tooooo custom.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Been a fan of the 9ers ever since. Sucks we lost today ... ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hahh ... were're kindred spirits of some sort? ... I've been a 49er fan through all the High's AND lows since I was a kid also, you may be too young to remember John Brodie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... yesterday was hard to explain especially with a Harbaugh coached team, I think the substitute refs are definately effecting the integraty of the game and making it harder to prep/coach the boys up
Click to expand...

Meh, like my old High School Coach used to tell us in Practice, Pregame and Post game... "Play the game, FarK the the Zebras and let me worry about them. You just take care of your responsibility. It will all come out in the wash by the final gun" . The Replacements are not good, but I'd rather have Rookie Officials learning on the job than Veteran Officials who have been the most incompetent boobs for over 15 straight years running. I want impartiality and consistency. If I can't have that then why even have Officials. Make it straight combat Football. No holds barred. When they directly influence the outcomes of games it damages the product. Thank god the Replacements haven't influenced one game. This is either an attempt by the NFL to get their house in order or it's their way of suggesting that the Veteran Officials weren't all that bad. I beg to differ and my mental rolodex is chock full of instances. So I'm hoping it's the former not the latter, otherwise someone is goin down.









I remember Brodie. He was my Grand Parents Insurance Guy. I don't remember him playing since I was still pretty young in his final year. There is a BK on El Camino Real in the Palo Alto area( I think it's closer to Los Altos) that I used to go to that has A LOT of 49er pics and memorabilia. Used to be my regular haunt during Lunch break from my Freshman and Sophmore days before we moved from the area. Darn now I'm jones'n for a Whopper an a Chocolate Shake.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## mtbiker033

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Hahh ... were're kindred spirits of some sort? ... I've been a 49er fan through all the High's AND lows since I was a kid also, you may be too young to remember John Brodie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... yesterday was hard to explain especially with a Harbaugh coached team, I think the substitute refs are definately effecting the integraty of the game and making it harder to prep/coach the boys up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll get as many fan recommendations as you will a users definition of "Fan Noise" and if in their opinion they are "Loud" or Not!? ... Initially I'd try just the 2 stock fans in a push position, especially If your going to use spacers/shrouds,. It's hard to beat the H100 stock fans for performance although many seem to complain they're too "Loud"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At your overclock/temps I bet you could get away with setting them on "Low", that's what I do for my 24/7 overclock (4.6GHz) and they work fine and are not too noisey for me at that setting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of us have found for the average 24/7 overclock that a push/pull config is just overkill ... Law of diminishing returns regarding the heat exchange capacity of the H100 rad and pump/heat block, BUT it is a way to keep temps competitive with the Stock fans while making things quieter with the proper combination if too much "noise" is the concern.
> I'm still curious though, what were your ambients for the above temps? I'm guessing 72-75F+ roomtemps?


I understand, yes ambient temperature in my office should be right around 72-75F. I ran an hour of blend earlier after changing my fans to push (rad still horizontal until my fan accessory arrives) and temps topped at 71-72 on the hottest core. Right I get you, the 1C temp drop might not be worth the extra noise from more fans!


----------



## TomcatV

@ CMan ... I mostly agree, especially now that I know you were a player also ... but did you see last nights game? No consistancy whatsoever with their calls ... Borderline all out streetbrawl







great for entertainment! but bad for NFL carrers







... friggin Pollard (Raven's headhunting safety) might as well been carrying a sawed off shotgun







and when you drive a guy like Belichick to physically grab a zebra you know the situation is borderline NUTS!

Patriots are my adopted 2nd Team







Guess this doesn't have much to do with CPU cooling but it sure was fun









Edit: Addendum about the refs and integrity ... Did you see the Monday night game? I rest my case along with Steve Young! ...

@ MTBiker ... Hmmm, I would have expected your temps to drop 2-3c going from a pull config to push? but if you were blowing the heat down into the desktop? (same setup as the picture but fans reversed) that might explain it? In any event those temps are fine and pretty consistant with the rest of the H100 owners here with that config and a setting of "Low" or even "Medium"


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rationalthinking*
> 
> Where can I get a custom plate made for the top of my H80?
> Just want a simple plate made, nothing tooooo custom.


Shoot me a PM I can help you with that


----------



## 32oz

Sent an app., was unsure what "Int./Exh." means so I just left it blank.


----------



## kizwan

"Int./Exh." - intake or exhaust. Referring to fan(s) configuration.


----------



## mtbiker033

idle temps I am getting now:



will do some p95 for an hour and post load temps.

Load temps update:

this is from running p95 small FFT for 1 hr:



fans as push, rad still horizontal for now. thermostat in the other room is reading 68F / 20C.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am thinking about changing out my fans on my H100 from CM Excalibur to the Corsair ones does anyone have any temp comparison


Lol, there's a guy in the H80 thread thinking of dumping the Corsair H80 fans for the Excalibur fans.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1056539/corsair-h80-performance-thread/1120#post_18231339

Maybe get him to leave temps for you if he goes through the change.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtbiker033*
> 
> thanks for the suggestions, yes for now I do plan on keeping this set-up on the test bench and will get the dual air duct accessory and mount the rad vertically:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=130_210_750_758&products_id=28993&zenid=30ac783e91a4c7d7a63250370f755935
> and also as you suggested change the fans to push! I would probably go to push pull but will either get (4) new fans or get (2) more of the stock fans which seem to work pretty well. Is there a preferred fan suggestion for the H100?


Changing from push to pull or vise versa will only give you differences of a few degrees or less (you could even end up with only a faction of a degree).

Here's a link on some shroud and push vs pull testing with thick fans and normal fans (30mm-25mm):

http://martinsliquidlab.i4memory.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html

The chart at the bottom shows a sample of push vs pull with no shrouds. The difference is less than 1c, although only at a 150 Watt load, so it may be slightly higher at higher loads.

If you're OK with the noise, the stock H100 fans are great fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Hahh ... were're kindred spirits of some sort? ... I've been a 49er fan through all the High's AND lows since I was a kid also, you may be too young to remember John Brodie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... yesterday was hard to explain especially with a Harbaugh coached team, I think the substitute refs are definately effecting the integraty of the game and making it harder to prep/coach the boys up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll get as many fan recommendations as you will a users definition of "Fan Noise" and if in their opinion they are "Loud" or Not!? ... Initially I'd try just the 2 stock fans in a push position, especially If your going to use spacers/shrouds,. It's hard to beat the H100 stock fans for performance although many seem to complain they're too "Loud"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At your overclock/temps I bet you could get away with setting them on "Low", that's what I do for my 24/7 overclock (4.6GHz) and they work fine and are not too noisey for me at that setting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of us have found for the average 24/7 overclock that a push/pull config is just overkill ... Law of diminishing returns regarding the heat exchange capacity of the H100 rad and pump/heat block, BUT it is a way to keep temps competitive with the Stock fans while making things quieter with the proper combination if too much "noise" is the concern.
> I'm still curious though, what were your ambients for the above temps? I'm guessing 72-75F+ roomtemps?


He could always hook up 40 fans and get some "below freezing" cooling happening.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> He could always hook up 40 fans and get some "below freezing" cooling happening.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Changing from push to pull or vise versa will only give you differences of a few degrees or less (you could even end up with only a faction of a degree).
> Here's a link on some shroud and push vs pull testing with thick fans and normal fans (30mm-25mm):
> http://martinsliquidlab.i4memory.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html
> The chart at the bottom shows a sample of push vs pull with no shrouds. The difference is less than 1c, although only at a 150 Watt load, so it may be slightly higher at higher loads.
> If you're OK with the noise, the stock H100 fans are great fans.
> He could always hook up 40 fans and get some "below freezing" cooling happening.


I really like that link above! BUT I take issue with "some" of his testing methodology ...
Quote: _While I didn't complete the full series of tests, this was enough for me to see there is some emerging trends going on. The push vs. pull question appears to really depend on the fan power. I believe the gains in the 38mm showing more benefit in push is due to pressure and turbulence._

He's focused on max performance with the 38mm Scythe Ultra Kaze (Delta) and uses a somewhat "useless" slowspeed Yate Loon case fan (no static pressure?) for the more common 120x25mm fan/cooling tests ... So I agree with you in that seeing a 2-3c difference from a push config (no shroud) as opposed to a pull config may be a bit exaggerated, but his tests aren't representative of what a decent static pressure 120x25mm fan would show. With the right fan and setup I still feel the push config is superior even if it's only 1c possibly 2c difference (no shroud)









No doubt 40 fans would do the trick







... maybe I'll take it a step further and replace my room air-conditioner with that set-up ... it would COST about the same ($400-$500) and looks "cooler"?


----------



## mtbiker033

I got my fan mount accessory for my lian li test bench and was able to mount my radiator vertically. the fan mount deal wasn't set up for a 2 x 120 rad, it has some random fan spacing so I had to improvise and line it up with one of the two fans then just sandwiched it on the other one.





I also ordered (4) SP120 high performance fans and am going to do a push/pull. Looks like plenty of room on the rad side for the fans to clear the sata ports and gpu's.

Much better install and cleaner.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Changing from push to pull or vise versa will only give you differences of a few degrees or less (you could even end up with only a faction of a degree).
> Here's a link on some shroud and push vs pull testing with thick fans and normal fans (30mm-25mm):
> http://martinsliquidlab.i4memory.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html
> The chart at the bottom shows a sample of push vs pull with no shrouds. The difference is less than 1c, although only at a 150 Watt load, so it may be slightly higher at higher loads.
> If you're OK with the noise, the stock H100 fans are great fans.
> He could always hook up 40 fans and get some "below freezing" cooling happening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like that link above! BUT I take issue with "some" of his testing methodology ...
> Quote: _While I didn't complete the full series of tests, this was enough for me to see there is some emerging trends going on. The push vs. pull question appears to really depend on the fan power. I believe the gains in the 38mm showing more benefit in push is due to pressure and turbulence._
> 
> He's focused on max performance with the 38mm Scythe Ultra Kaze (Delta) and uses a somewhat "useless" slowspeed Yate Loon case fan (no static pressure?) for the more common 120x25mm fan/cooling tests ... So I agree with you in that seeing a 2-3c difference from a push config (no shroud) as opposed to a pull config may be a bit exaggerated, but his tests aren't representative of what a decent static pressure 120x25mm fan would show. With the right fan and setup I still feel the push config is superior even if it's only 1c possibly 2c difference (no shroud)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No doubt 40 fans would do the trick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... maybe I'll take it a step further and replace my room air-conditioner with that set-up ... it would COST about the same ($400-$500) and looks "cooler"?
Click to expand...

I think the thing to take away here is that the average loop generally has cheaper Yate Loon fans on them. There is a reason Yate Loons are sold at every performance cooling shop. They DO have reasonable Static Pressure for people who don't want to pay a king's ransom for a fan and they're cheap enough to replace should they go bad without much in the way of lost performance. I pay $4 each for mine and have never had an issue yet with them.

I'd say that doing a Review with a bank of Ultra Kaze fans on the Radiator would not be representitive of the average coolers intended loop. Not many of us wish to pay nearly $40 per fan before shipping or shipping and VAT are applied.

Was his testing perfect? Probably not but it was Representative of RL scenario imho. That's why I'll continue to link people to his reviews over many of the reviewers who get paid by the people they review for. No not everyone gets paid to review but we do know those reviewers do exist.









~Ceadder


----------



## Step83

Got bored so tried a different layout, moved it from a rear exhaust to a roof exhaust. Actually dropped my temps surprisingly only by an average of 2C but the VRMs etc have cooled down about 6c.

As it is now


----------



## Ceadderman

Heat rises, so I'd have to assume that performance is wasted in a rear intake or exhaust setup whereas in a rooftop Exhaust setup, it's optimal for the system to rid itself of heat.









I tried rear exhaust an I just didn't like it. Not even a day went by when I immediately placed it in the top of my case. The VRM will increase somewhat in temp but not enough to do harm to the system imho. I was just glad that I didn't have to remove the 200 in the top of my Case while my Mainboard was still on air. That could really have sucked due to the NB issues these boards launched with.









~Ceadder


----------



## mtbiker033

looks nice Step83!


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I really like that link above! BUT I take issue with "some" of his testing methodology ...
> Quote: _While I didn't complete the full series of tests, this was enough for me to see there is some emerging trends going on. The push vs. pull question appears to really depend on the fan power. I believe the gains in the 38mm showing more benefit in push is due to pressure and turbulence._
> He's focused on max performance with the 38mm Scythe Ultra Kaze (Delta) and uses a somewhat "useless" slowspeed Yate Loon case fan (no static pressure?) for the more common 120x25mm fan/cooling tests ... So I agree with you in that seeing a 2-3c difference from a push config (no shroud) as opposed to a pull config may be a bit exaggerated, but his tests aren't representative of what a decent static pressure 120x25mm fan would show. With the right fan and setup I still feel the push config is superior even if it's only 1c possibly 2c difference (no shroud)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No doubt 40 fans would do the trick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... maybe I'll take it a step further and replace my room air-conditioner with that set-up ... it would COST about the same ($400-$500) and looks "cooler"?


Agree 100% there TomcatV. His methodology must be taken with a bit of a grain of salt. I had the exact same opinion when I first saw this link. Unfortunately, it's the only one I've ever found that does a push vs pull test. I agree you might get about the same difference between push vs pull as you might see in Intake vs Exhaust. I did an Intake vs Exhaust test on my H70 and I got about a 1c difference under high GPU and CPU load. That test is buried in the 600T thread.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Step83*
> 
> Got bored so tried a different layout, moved it from a rear exhaust to a roof exhaust. Actually dropped my temps surprisingly only by an average of 2C but the VRMs etc have cooled down about 6c.
> As it is now
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's the way I had my H70 mounted. Good job.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Heat rises, so I'd have to assume that performance is wasted in a rear intake or exhaust setup whereas in a rooftop Exhaust setup, it's optimal for the system to rid itself of heat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried rear exhaust an I just didn't like it. Not even a day went by when I immediately placed it in the top of my case. The VRM will increase somewhat in temp but not enough to do harm to the system imho. I was just glad that I didn't have to remove the 200 in the top of my Case while my Mainboard was still on air. That could really have sucked due to the NB issues these boards launched with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


According to Corsair George (and I personally agree with him because it makes sense), the tendency of warm air to rise is a very weak force compared to a fan. It's very easy to overcome that force using a fan.

In fact in this link:

http://www.overclock.net/t/831636/official-corsair-graphite-club/2010#post_13976813

He even suggests that for radial cooler video cards, you could use your top fans as intake and your front fan (200mm in this case) as exhaust. There is not enough force behind "warm air rising" to worry about basing your air flow from that. Unless, you're not using any fans at all.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Heat rises, so I'd have to assume that performance is wasted in a rear intake or exhaust setup whereas in a rooftop Exhaust setup, it's optimal for the system to rid itself of heat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried rear exhaust an I just didn't like it. Not even a day went by when I immediately placed it in the top of my case. The VRM will increase somewhat in temp but not enough to do harm to the system imho. I was just glad that I didn't have to remove the 200 in the top of my Case while my Mainboard was still on air. That could really have sucked due to the NB issues these boards launched with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> According to Corsair George (and I personally agree with him because it makes sense), the tendency of warm air to rise is a very weak force compared to a fan. It's very easy to overcome that force using a fan.
> 
> In fact in this link:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/831636/official-corsair-graphite-club/2010#post_13976813
> 
> He even suggests that for radial cooler video cards, you could use your top fans as intake and your front fan (200mm in this case) as exhaust. There is not enough force behind "warm air rising" to worry about basing your air flow from that. Unless, you're not using any fans at all.
Click to expand...

Ummm Merg I completely agree with that.

But it should still better based on the odd fact that exhausting upward using a fan would should be better than exhausting sideways with a fan. True?


















~Ceadder


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtbiker033*
> 
> I got my fan mount accessory for my lian li test bench and was able to mount my radiator vertically.
> 
> I also ordered (4) SP120 high performance fans and am going to do a push/pull. Looks like plenty of room on the rad side for the fans to clear the sata ports and gpu's.
> Much better install and cleaner.


That's looking really nice!







One suggestion though, when you get your 4 SP120's I'd reverse the direction of airflow you have now (so it exhausts away from the ram). You might even get lucky enough to lose the auxilary 120mm you have hanging over the moffets/cpu socket?








Additionally it would be nice if you did a "mini" review on all your different configs (idle/load-speeds-temps) and your opinion weather the push/pull was worth it or not?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Heat rises, so I'd have to assume that performance is wasted in a rear intake or exhaust setup whereas in a rooftop Exhaust setup, it's optimal for the system to rid itself of heat.


I'm with you CMan, even though Merg makes a great case (Corsair George) ... it just doesn't sit right in my infinitesimally small brain to not cooperate with Mother Nature and take advantage of Physics though the improvement may be minuscule


----------



## mtbiker033

Quote:


> That's looking really nice! One suggestion though, when you get your 4 SP120's I'd reverse the direction of airflow you have now (so it exhausts away from the ram). You might even get lucky enough to lose the auxilary 120mm you have hanging over the moffets/cpu socket?
> Additionally it would be nice if you did a "mini" review on all your different configs (idle/load-speeds-temps) and your opinion weather the push/pull was worth it or not?


Thank you!

So I received the (4) SP120 HP fans today and installed them. I considered what you said about reversing the air flow on the radiator fans but then it would be blowing on me as I sit pretty close to that corner of my desk so I have them towards the system. I do appreciate the input though.

I had to use a 3-pin extension on one of the fans (luckily I had one!) but here are the pictures of the result:





It does appear that the idle temps are lower and I did run some p95 small FFT's for ~ 15 min and max temps looks as though they would be very similar to my last testing with the stock fans on push. I will say though that the ambient temps are higher today than my testing the other day so with that said I think they definitely dropped by a few degrees C.


----------



## Samurai707

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I'm with you CMan, even though Merg makes a great case (Corsair George) ... it just doesn't sit right in my infinitesimally small brain to not cooperate with Mother Nature and take advantage of Physics though the improvement may be minuscule


If I remember correctly, heat rises very slowly. With proper airflow, that rule of mother nature is kind of thrown out the window...

What matters is where your hardware is dumping the heat and where you are directing it from there. Like most non-ref video cards dump hot air into the case and the way you set up your airflow pattern directs where it goes from there, be it towards the bottom of the case in the front, out the back or top of the case.

For example, TJ08-E matx cases bring air from the front to the bottom rear part of the case.
At the same time, non-ref cards (at least in my setup) dump the air towards the top of the case, this is why silverstone recommends having the PSU intake fan facing your video cards so that it grabs that hot air and exhausts it via the PSU.

Many times people have shown that the "Heat rises" argument isn't really valid with our current computer setups and crazy amounts of fans. It's been in many threads before this


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> If I remember correctly, heat rises very slowly. With proper airflow, that rule of mother nature is kind of thrown out the window...
> What matters is where your hardware is dumping the heat and where you are directing it from there. Like most non-ref video cards dump hot air into the case and the way you set up your airflow pattern directs where it goes from there, be it towards the bottom of the case in the front, out the back or top of the case.
> For example, TJ08-E matx cases bring air from the front to the bottom rear part of the case.
> At the same time, non-ref cards (at least in my setup) dump the air towards the top of the case, this is why silverstone recommends having the PSU intake fan facing your video cards so that it grabs that hot air and exhausts it via the PSU.
> Many times people have shown that the "Heat rises" argument isn't really valid with our current computer setups and crazy amounts of fans. It's been in many threads before this


I certainly don't disagree with your comments







... but so much depends on the individuals setup/configuration and ultimately application ... I should have worded my statement just a bit differently ... i.e. ...

_I'm with you CMan, even though Merg makes a great case (Corsair George) ... it just doesn't sit right in my infinitesimally small brain to not cooperate with Mother Nature (Physics), *when you can but secondary to optimizing case air flow 1st*!_











That looks even better! Now for your honest opinion, was the appx. $60 for the (4) SP120's well spent? ... @Max loads how much quieter, if any, did the new push/pull cofig achieve? New H100 owners are comming here all the time and I think your "new" input/observations would be very useful for them


----------



## mtbiker033

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I certainly don't disagree with your comments
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... but so much depends on the individuals setup/configuration and ultimately application ... I should have worded my statement just a bit differently ... i.e. ...
> _I'm with you CMan, even though Merg makes a great case (Corsair George) ... it just doesn't sit right in my infinitesimally small brain to not cooperate with Mother Nature (Physics), *when you can but secondary to optimizing case air flow 1st*!_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks even better! Now for your honest opinion, was the appx. $60 for the (4) SP120's well spent? ... @Max loads how much quieter, if any, did the new push/pull cofig achieve? New H100 owners are comming here all the time and I think your "new" input/observations would be very useful for them


Overall I definitely feel it was worth the price based on performance and sound. I will perform the same testing as in my previous post (prime95 small fft) for an hour and post a comparison based on the results. Great suggestion.

*Update*

As I mentioned I ran 1 hour of smallFFT's on prime95 as a comparison to my original testing using the stock H100 fans, the results are as follows:

Original testing

using my signature rig with the i7-970 at 4200mhz 1.30vcore
H100 with stock fans in push
testing with prime95 small FFT for 1 hour, ambient temperature of 68 degrees F / 20 degrees C



I then received (4) Corsair SP120 High Performance and arranged them in push/pull with the same settings. Ambient temperatures were 72 degrees F / 22.2 degrees C



I did not notice any significant difference in the sound of fans and if anything the (4) SP120 HP's are quieter than the (2) stock fans. Overall I am very pleased with the results. With the stock fans, when putting the load on the cpu it was easy to detect an audible difference as the rans ramped up, with the SP120's their sound wasn't as perceptible.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ummm Merg I completely agree with that.
> But it should still better based on the odd fact that exhausting upward using a fan would should be better than exhausting sideways with a fan. True?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I can't say for sure. I have had many cases with rear exhaust fans, and only one with top exhaust fans. Both seemed to work fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> If I remember correctly, heat rises very slowly. With proper airflow, that rule of mother nature is kind of thrown out the window...
> What matters is where your hardware is dumping the heat and where you are directing it from there. Like most non-ref video cards dump hot air into the case and the way you set up your airflow pattern directs where it goes from there, be it towards the bottom of the case in the front, out the back or top of the case.
> For example, TJ08-E matx cases bring air from the front to the bottom rear part of the case.
> At the same time, non-ref cards (at least in my setup) dump the air towards the top of the case, this is why silverstone recommends having the PSU intake fan facing your video cards so that it grabs that hot air and exhausts it via the PSU.
> Many times people have shown that the "Heat rises" argument isn't really valid with our current computer setups and crazy amounts of fans. It's been in many threads before this


Agreed. I have also seen this discussion here and there on the 'net. I think overall it doesn't really make much difference (hot air rises), but that it never hurts if your fan orientation reinforces this natural movement of heat. I'm just pointing out that one doesn't have to base their airflow on it.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtbiker033*
> 
> Thank you!
> So I received the (4) SP120 HP fans today and installed them. I considered what you said about reversing the air flow on the radiator fans but then it would be blowing on me as I sit pretty close to that corner of my desk so I have them towards the system. I do appreciate the input though.
> I had to use a 3-pin extension on one of the fans (luckily I had one!) but here are the pictures of the result:
> 
> 
> 
> It does appear that the idle temps are lower and I did run some p95 small FFT's for ~ 15 min and max temps looks as though they would be very similar to my last testing with the stock fans on push. I will say though that the ambient temps are higher today than my testing the other day so with that said I think they definitely dropped by a few degrees C.


Now that looks pretty awesome!


----------



## AusNorman

Hey guys hope this helps all of you wanting better cooling









http://www.overclock.net/products/cooler-master-excalibur-r4-exbb-20pk-r0-120mm-case-fan

Tis my review on some fans that are better than the H80 stock fans


----------



## AusNorman

Cooler Master Excalibur fans x5 two of which are on my H80

Well lets start at the beginning, I had 3 old Antec Tri color fans x2 front intake x1 side panel intake,
the other 2 fans I replaced where the Corsair H80 stock fans (loud to say the least).

1st The packaging was fantastic, Fans seemed a little light weight but have solid build, and the screw holes are braced from top to bottom (like a cylinder) so when I was screwing them down tight onto the H80 with the rubber seals the fans were not warping.

2nd Came with basically every adapter you need/want even little rubber mounts, If you look at the photo's you can see the tiny lil rubber mounts placed over the mounting holes, no vibration at all

3rd Fantastic amount of air flow to noise level, Stock H80 @ 2300RPM was only 92CFM these fans are 2000RPM @ 85CFM - 10dB ! Still a little noisy but @ low to med hardly can be heard compared to the stock H80 fans!

4th Using them as PWM fans with the Corsair H80. The facts are that @ idle and light loads the fans perform better than the stock ones ever did.

Stock fans Idle @ 35'c also fairly noisy (on high profile)
CM fans Idle @ 32'c and the noise is half of stock fans (on high profile)

Case temp dropped from 34'c to 32-33'c ( a little better )

Under load how ever the CM fans performed equal to a tiny bit better than the H80's and maybe due to the directed airflow coming out the back of the fan?

Stock ITB 55-57'c
CM FANS 54-55'c









Stock fans apparently had a static pressure of 7.7 (dont know if they mean each fan or in a push/pull
CM fans have a static pressure of 3.5

Over all I am very pleased to say these fans are a decent improvement in airflow and >noise @ the low/med levels and max there as good as the stock H80's but way quieter









Hope this helps anyone looking for some solid fans to replace with or even on the H80/H100 Water cooler.

Peace out peeps


----------



## Aspec89

plan on buying a corsair hydro series, either h60 or h80 and sticking it on my 955 until the release of the FX8300's in october, is it ok to take it off the 955 and re-paste it and put it on another cpu or would i be better off just buying another like the h100? 1st time trying to OC so not sure which one ill need.

edit: should i just grab the h100 now and swap it over to the new cpu when i get it? and just buy a hyper 212+ for my 955(wont be oc'd or used for gaming etc) to save money?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aspec89*
> 
> plan on buying a corsair hydro series, either h60 or h80 and sticking it on my 955 until the release of the FX8300's in october, is it ok to take it off the 955 and re-paste it and put it on another cpu or would i be better off just buying another like the h100? 1st time trying to OC so not sure which one ill need.
> 
> edit: should i just grab the h100 now and swap it over to the new cpu when i get it? and just buy a hyper 212+ for my 955(wont be oc'd or used for gaming etc) to save money?


Yeah it's plenty fine. You just have to replace the TIM. I used my H50 on 2 different CPUs' before I went full custom loop.









So if you don't have some TIM, I would suggest buying some.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AusNorman*
> 
> Cooler Master Excalibur fans x5 two of which are on my H80
> Well lets start at the beginning, I had 3 old Antec Tri color fans x2 front intake x1 side panel intake,
> the other 2 fans I replaced where the Corsair H80 stock fans (loud to say the least).
> 1st The packaging was fantastic, Fans seemed a little light weight but have solid build, and the screw holes are braced from top to bottom (like a cylinder) so when I was screwing them down tight onto the H80 with the rubber seals the fans were not warping.
> 2nd Came with basically every adapter you need/want even little rubber mounts, If you look at the photo's you can see the tiny lil rubber mounts placed over the mounting holes, no vibration at all
> 3rd Fantastic amount of air flow to noise level, Stock H80 @ 2300RPM was only 92CFM these fans are 2000RPM @ 85CFM - 10dB ! Still a little noisy but @ low to med hardly can be heard compared to the stock H80 fans!
> 4th Using them as PWM fans with the Corsair H80. The facts are that @ idle and light loads the fans perform better than the stock ones ever did.
> Stock fans Idle @ 35'c also fairly noisy (on high profile)
> CM fans Idle @ 32'c and the noise is half of stock fans (on high profile)
> Case temp dropped from 34'c to 32-33'c ( a little better )
> Under load how ever the CM fans performed equal to a tiny bit better than the H80's and maybe due to the directed airflow coming out the back of the fan?
> Stock ITB 55-57'c
> CM FANS 54-55'c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stock fans apparently had a static pressure of 7.7 (dont know if they mean each fan or in a push/pull
> CM fans have a static pressure of 3.5
> Over all I am very pleased to say these fans are a decent improvement in airflow and >noise @ the low/med levels and max there as good as the stock H80's but way quieter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps anyone looking for some solid fans to replace with or even on the H80/H100 Water cooler.
> Peace out peeps


There's something wrong with your testing. Others have done the same tests between the Excalibur fans and the Stock H80/100 fans and got different results than you did. Those fans have half the static pressure and way less airflow than the stock fans have. Others doing the same comparison have found the Excaliburs to be a couple of degrees hotter than the stock fans, which is exactly what one would expect when comparing their specifications.

Now, this may be because you also replaced your case fans (you didn't specifically mention replacing them, but since you mention them I assume you replaced them as well?). Did you have both sets of fans set to the same orientation? If you use intake on one set and exhaust on the other, the comparison is invalid. If you want to do a valid comparison, you have to keep everything equal except changing the fans on the cooler, or your results are invalid. I hope you don't go around telling people how superior the Excalibur fans are, or some people may purchase them expecting better temps and be disappointed. You should look at your results more closely, and perhaps perform the tests over. You can't expect fans with lesser specs to outperform fans with higher specs, especially considering your results differ from others. BTW, the 7.78 mm/H2O is per fan.


----------



## tw33k

I agree. There's no way the Excaliburs would out perform the Corsair fans. Tomorrow I will be testing the stock Corsair fans vs Corsair SP120 Performance vs Silverstone AP-121 on my H100. I wish I had more fans to test (maybe down the track I'll grab some more fans to test) I'm testing for performance only. Noise levels are of no interest to me.


----------



## AusNorman

Yes Mergatroid I replaced all my fans in my case with these CM Excalibur fans, All fans sucking in and the H80 is the only fan drawing air out of my case. Top140mm fan has been taken off and taped up, 3 CM Excalibur fans sucking in and only the H80 letting air out. (my Antec 300 gaming case mk1 has been sealed with Selleys No More Gaps







) So im thinking I have fantastic airflow in my case and as the CM fans on my H80 spin up so do my case fans too via motherboard controlled PWN.

Also rear 120mm CM fan on my H80 radiator which is doing the pulling I electrical taped up the mesh hole around the shroud, so it can only suck air thru the radiator not the sides!

Also my room temp is a constant 19'c so no variation in ambient temp with these tests either.

Well my case is cooler due to the new fans drafting a **** load more air, and maybe since I have a decent positive case pressure its helping the H80 air flow?? Not really sure and yes I was surprised as well to notice a positive gain over stock fans!







Also using a laser RPM counter on the excalibur fans and in fact spin @ 2300 RPM not 2000RPM stated on box! (maybe some extra pressure gain there and airflow?)

All in all I'm happy


----------



## Xerosnake90

Hey guys, I wanna welcome myself to the club first off. Got myself an H100 and ohhh man is it doing me wonders for my lovely, super hot FX 8120 chip. I'll copy and paste this from the EVO thread. I had a 212 Evo and it wasn't cutting it, so I got an H100. Here are some comparisons and results.

H100 has been installed, it wasn't easy but I managed For reference I'm using an NZXT Phantom case two 200mm fans up top. One silent fan in the back top running 700rpm, one performance fan in top front running at low speed. It can go up to high speed 1300rpm I believe. I have mounted the radiator underneath said 200mm fans, with two ap-15s pushing the air upwards towards the pull fans. H100 is set to performance mode, level 3. My Evo ran in a push and pull config using the ap-15s. CPU is FX-8120.

*CPU 3.8ghz 1.24 idle to light load. Youtube videos at 1080p, etc.*

Evo: Idle temp at at fans full speed 33-37 degrees under light load. Core temps at around 20 degrees each.

H100: Idle temp with fans at low speed 31-34 degrees under light load. Core temps at 16 degrees. (Notice that this is at low speed, fan speeds adjust to temps)

*CPU 3.8ghz 1.24v under OCCT stress test. Both tests ran for just 30 minutes.*

Evo: CPU temp ranging from 58-63 degrees at full speed each fan. Core temps baseline at around low 50s and rise over time to high 50s, would often raise up and then lower. Thus keeping inbetween max temp and lower temp. At time of recording, 58 degree core temp. CPU temp seemed to stay between 60-63.

H100: CPU temp topped out between 52-55 degrees. Core temps between 36-40 degrees, staying at 37 for the most part. That in my opinion is solid, my system also seems to be decently quieter than before.

Further testing: 4.2ghz at 1.32vcore (could probably play around with that voltage a bit... Don't think it needs to be that high for 4.2) 222 bus speed, 19.0 CPU multiplier. 1 hour OCCT test Max CPU temp 61 degrees. Tends to stay around 59. Core max at 48, stays around 44. A 4.5 stable seems unlikely, my chip still is a hot son of a gun. When I get to 1.4+vcore things get a bit too warm at times. I'll play around and see if I can get to 4.3-4 however.

*Edit 1:* So, oopsie It seems that the fan controller on my H100 doesn't work. No matter what configuration it's at the fans stay at the same speed. Turns out all those temps are with fans running at low speed. Good thing I have this lovely NZXT phantom case (love it) that has a built in fan controller. I decided to disconnect the two side fans from the control and plug in my ap-15s instead. Now I have manual speed. I doubt it'd make a huge difference however next time I stress test I'll have fans set on high. I'm tempted to toss on OCCT and see if there is a difference. We'll see.

Temps are relatively close at idle under 3.8ghz. Under OCCT stress test we can see that while CPU temp stayed a decent 5-10 degrees cooler. Core temps were the big story staying under 40 degrees. That's a 20 degree difference compared to air cooling. And that, my friend, seems to be a pretty good result


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> I agree. There's no way the Excaliburs would out perform the Corsair fans. Tomorrow I will be testing the stock Corsair fans vs Corsair SP120 Performance vs Silverstone AP-121 on my H100. I wish I had more fans to test (maybe down the track I'll grab some more fans to test) I'm testing for performance only. Noise levels are of no interest to me.


Sweet. I will be interested to see you're results.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AusNorman*
> 
> Yes Mergatroid I replaced all my fans in my case with these CM Excalibur fans, All fans sucking in and the H80 is the only fan drawing air out of my case. Top140mm fan has been taken off and taped up, 3 CM Excalibur fans sucking in and only the H80 letting air out. (my Antec 300 gaming case mk1 has been sealed with Selleys No More Gaps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) So im thinking I have fantastic airflow in my case and as the CM fans on my H80 spin up so do my case fans too via motherboard controlled PWN.
> Also rear 120mm CM fan on my H80 radiator which is doing the pulling I electrical taped up the mesh hole around the shroud, so it can only suck air thru the radiator not the sides!
> Also my room temp is a constant 19'c so no variation in ambient temp with these tests either.
> Well my case is cooler due to the new fans drafting a **** load more air, and maybe since I have a decent positive case pressure its helping the H80 air flow?? Not really sure and yes I was surprised as well to notice a positive gain over stock fans!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also using a laser RPM counter on the excalibur fans and in fact spin @ 2300 RPM not 2000RPM stated on box! (maybe some extra pressure gain there and airflow?)
> All in all I'm happy


Ok, see that makes sense. You improved the airflow in your entire case, and that is helping your Hydro cooler. So, you should edit your messages with a note saying you replaced all the fans in your case with these fans, and they improved your overall cooling performance.

You can't say the people looking for better cooling should change to Excalibur fans on their rad, because that by itself won't do the job. If they already have really good case fans, then all the Excalibur fans will do is make the system quieter. It's hard to say why the fans are operating faster then their spec. I know the Scythe SS fans I usually use also operated over their spec by about 1K RPM. Maybe they have a high tolerance?

Still, they are good fans and the difference in temps will only be a few degrees. If I see some of these available locally, I think I'll pick some up.

@Xerosnake90

Did you get the same problem with the stock fans? I've heard that there are some fans the H100/80 fan controller won't work on.


----------



## Xerosnake90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> @Xerosnake90
> Did you get the same problem with the stock fans? I've heard that there are some fans the H100/80 fan controller won't work on.


I never attached the stock fans, I bought my Ap-15s for a reason and they will be used. They aren't cheap! But its fine, I prefer manual control.


----------



## SimpleAndClean

bought a H40 today, yea i know its crap. but ill be running stock anyway(i7-3770), so it wont matters much.









However, the interesting thing is that this cooler outperforms all my other cooler i have bought(hyper tx3 evo, CM V8 and nh-c12p).
So i was really happy with it although there's slight grind noise Alas, its still an excellent cooler.









btw, is there difference putting the rad with the tube on top or bottom? currently my rad tube is at bottom.


----------



## Xerosnake90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleAndClean*
> 
> bought a H40 today, yea i know its crap. but ill be running stock anyway(i7-3770), so it wont matters much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, the interesting thing is that this cooler outperforms all my other cooler i have bought(hyper tx3 evo, CM V8 and nh-c12p).
> So i was really happy with it although there's slight grind noise Alas, its still an excellent cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw, is there difference putting the rad with the tube on top or bottom? currently my rad tube is at bottom.


Tube direction I doubt is much of a difference. Where you mount it has apparently yielded better results though. Pointing up or sideways, take a look around and see what others have said.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleAndClean*
> 
> bought a H40 today, yea i know its crap. but ill be running stock anyway(i7-3770), so it wont matters much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, the interesting thing is that this cooler outperforms all my other cooler i have bought(hyper tx3 evo, CM V8 and nh-c12p).
> So i was really happy with it although there's slight grind noise Alas, its still an excellent cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw, is there difference putting the rad with the tube on top or bottom? currently my rad tube is at bottom.


There's nothing wrong with the H40. I would expect it to be on par with the H50, which I have used and seems to be a fine cooler. You're using what looks like the H70 pump only with an aluminum block, and a normal thickness rad. I would expect about a 15c improvement over the stock cooler. That's a great unit for the price.

If you can, put the tubes on the bottom so there will be no problems with air bubbles. You might try shaking the assembly before installation too (too late for that I guess) to try and move any air into the top of the rad.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SimpleAndClean*
> 
> bought a H40 today, yea i know its crap. but ill be running stock anyway(i7-3770), so it wont matters much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, the interesting thing is that this cooler outperforms all my other cooler i have bought(hyper tx3 evo, CM V8 and nh-c12p).
> So i was really happy with it although there's slight grind noise Alas, its still an excellent cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw, is there difference putting the rad with the tube on top or bottom? currently my rad tube is at bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> There's nothing wrong with the H40. I would expect it to be on par with the H50, which I have used and seems to be a fine cooler. You're using what looks like the H70 pump only with an aluminum block, and a normal thickness rad. I would expect about a 15c improvement over the stock cooler. That's a great unit for the price.
> 
> If you can, put the tubes on the bottom so there will be no problems with air bubbles. You might try shaking the assembly before installation too (too late for that I guess) to try and move any air into the top of the rad.
Click to expand...

This +1.









~Ceadder


----------



## _REAPER_

I wish they would make a 360 closed loop system


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I wish they would make a 360 closed loop system


Funny. I contacted Corsair about exactly that. It would be perfect in my Obsidian 800D which has space for a 360 rad in the top


----------



## _REAPER_

What did they say as a response


----------



## tw33k

I haven't heard back yet. You should contact them too. On the website there's like a comments/feedback link and you can ask there. If a lot of people ask they'll be more inclined to think about it if they already haven't


----------



## Cyrious

well, Q9400 is here and OCed to 3.8GHZ, and the H50 is working wonders keeping it cool. The worst temp read during full load is 68C, which is a far cry from my E5300's 85+. I love this thing.


----------



## SimpleAndClean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> There's nothing wrong with the H40. I would expect it to be on par with the H50, which I have used and seems to be a fine cooler. You're using what looks like the H70 pump only with an aluminum block, and a normal thickness rad. I would expect about a 15c improvement over the stock cooler. That's a great unit for the price.
> If you can, put the tubes on the bottom so there will be no problems with air bubbles. You might try shaking the assembly before installation too (too late for that I guess) to try and move any air into the top of the rad.


im sure theres alot of shaking when i bought it as i did not go home straight away. I travelled alot of places that day while having the H40 behind my car. ;P

Actually the noise doesnt come from the pump, it comes from the cpu thing, that tiny spinning wheel. I've read somewhere thats what caused the trickling noise i presume.


----------



## Mergatroid

lol, your technical talk is baffling me.

The "cpu thing" is the pump/block. There are only three pieces not counting the fan: Hoses (2x), rad and block/pump.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> I haven't heard back yet. You should contact them too. On the website there's like a comments/feedback link and you can ask there. If a lot of people ask they'll be more inclined to think about it if they already haven't


I think they should make a modular system, where you can purchase pre-filled rads and blocks with hoses also pre filled, and the "quick change" fittings with zero coolant loss when they are used. Then you could mix and match blocks and rads. I suppose it would be too expensive though. Might as well get a full loop although I still like the maintenance free aspect of closed loop systems.


----------



## Ceadderman

Corsair should go the same route that Cooler Master has done with their Frozen Cube(wrong name? Well you get the idea.







) system.

You can buy it as a closed loop 120 or 240 or you can buy the Pump Block and build a custom loop. Had Corsair done that from the very beginning in their Hydro Series, I'd probably still own my H50 only would have replaced the Radiator.









~Ceadder


----------



## SimpleAndClean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> lol, your technical talk is baffling me.
> The "cpu thing" is the pump/block. There are only three pieces not counting the fan: Hoses (2x), rad and block/pump.


haha. i dont know these stuff, as i never had any water cooling before. ;P so assumption was made


----------



## _REAPER_

BYE BYE H100 finally


----------



## Xerosnake90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> BYE BYE H100 finally


Sure looks nice! But WOW is it expensive XD


----------



## Mergatroid

The question is, why post it in the Hydro club? $300 for a pump and block? I'll stick with the H100.


----------



## Xerosnake90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> The question is, why post it in the Hydro club? $300 for a pump and block? I'll stick with the H100.


I don't know much about custom loops but I'm quite certain he'll be paying a bit more for liquid coloring, tubes, and radiator. Custom loops can be as expensive as making a decent computer can be...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerosnake90*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> The question is, why post it in the Hydro club? $300 for a pump and block? I'll stick with the H100.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know much about custom loops but I'm quite certain he'll be paying a bit more for liquid coloring, tubes, and radiator. Custom loops can be as expensive as making a decent computer can be...
Click to expand...

He posted it here like all other Hydro Coolers who are going away from an All in One do. I don't see anything wrong with it as he's updating the group that he's leaving it for bigger and better cooling. Let's not forget that I've since moved on. I'm only here because I am subscribed to the thread and because I like to help people with my favorite All in One setups.









It may have cost more but if you're running Load full time it's more than reasonable to go custom. If you're not Folding 24/7 or doing large file rendering all day long, it's only worth it if you deem that it is.









~Ceadder


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> The question is, why post it in the Hydro club? $300 for a pump and block? I'll stick with the H100.


e-peen


----------



## _REAPER_

I will continue to post here and yes my custom loop will be expensive probably around 1k total for the one that I am building and that is without GPU BLOCKs. I thoroughly enjoy this thread though and will continue to post here I will be giving my H100 away


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> He posted it here like all other Hydro Coolers who are going away from an All in One do. I don't see anything wrong with it as he's updating the group that he's leaving it for bigger and better cooling. Let's not forget that I've since moved on. I'm only here because I am subscribed to the thread and because I like to help people with my favorite All in One setups.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may have cost more but if you're running Load full time it's more than reasonable to go custom. If you're not Folding 24/7 or doing large file rendering all day long, it's only worth it if you deem that it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I will continue to post here ... I thoroughly enjoy this thread though and will continue to post here I will be giving my H100 away


Agreed ... R+









EDIT: Personal observations/experience ... There is a sense of pride and accomplishment in building a "custom loop" knowing your doing your very best to maximize your chips performance under the most strenuous applictions/conditions!
I however am one of the many that has gone the other direction and given up their custom loops for the *convenience and performance* of an "All-in-One"! There are many pro's and cons for both, it's a matter of personal choice. I for one miss the ability to efficiently expand my cooling to the GPU's, not easily done with an "All-in-One"








HOWEVER to argue that you need the performance of a "Custom Loop" to cool OC'd chips in strenuos 24/7 applications can easily be argued the other way for the "All-in-One"







The $Cost of a decent custom loop would more than cover replacing a failed CPU at least once if not 2-3 times depending on the chip itself ... and I have yet to see a chip fail due to heat from a strenuous 24/7 operation using the H100 or H80 ... personally can't say regarding the H60/H40


----------



## tw33k

Nevermind


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> He posted it here like all other Hydro Coolers who are going away from an All in One do. I don't see anything wrong with it as he's updating the group that he's leaving it for bigger and better cooling. Let's not forget that I've since moved on. I'm only here because I am subscribed to the thread and because I like to help people with my favorite All in One setups.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may have cost more but if you're running Load full time it's more than reasonable to go custom. If you're not Folding 24/7 or doing large file rendering all day long, it's only worth it if you deem that it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I will continue to post here ... I thoroughly enjoy this thread though and will continue to post here I will be giving my H100 away
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Agreed ... R+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Personal observations/experience ... There is a sense of pride and accomplishment in building a "custom loop" knowing your doing your very best to maximize your chips performance under the most strenuous applictions/conditions!
> I however am one of the many that has gone the other direction and given up their custom loops for the *convenience and performance* of an "All-in-One"! There are many pro's and cons for both, it's a matter of personal choice. I for one miss the ability to efficiently expand my cooling to the GPU's, not easily done with an "All-in-One"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOWEVER to argue that you need the performance of a "Custom Loop" to cool OC'd chips in strenuos 24/7 applications can easily be argued the other way for the "All-in-One"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The $Cost of a decent custom loop would more than cover replacing a failed CPU at least once if not 2-3 times depending on the chip itself ... and I have yet to see a chip fail due to heat from a strenuous 24/7 operation using the H100 or H80 ... personally can't say regarding the H60/H40
Click to expand...

I ran my 955BE 24/7 without a single fail under the H50. The H50 did so well I was able to resell the 955 at 2/3 price of what I paid for it. As far as I am aware the gentleman that bought it from me is still using it.









For a Folding system that doesn't see much if any use besides Folding 24/7(i.e. Gaming, Browsing etc.) I'd go with an All in One and just let it do its thing. My system does everything though so I needed to make sure that it would stay cool no matter what I'm doing on it and my NB on my Formula needed it's own block to keep the temps reasonable. When I had H50 my NB ran in the 50s'. Now that I have a block on the Motherboard my NB runs in the 30s'. I suspect that I will not be going back to an all in one on this system.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

Hey guys, I wasn't suggesting that anyone not post. I just asked why he posted the open loop parts here? In his position I would have been all over the open loop water cooling threads.


----------



## tw33k

I've been running my H100with stock fans/UK-3000. I recently bought 2 Corsair SP-120 to test on the H100. I tested the stock fans, the SP-120s and Silverstone AP-121s. I discovered that having the UK-3000s pulling through the rad, the push fans are of no use. The results where almost identical for each of the 3 fan types. I haven't tested without push fans yet but the results clearly show that the push fans are doing nothing.

3770K @ 4.6GHz 1.24v
I stressed the CPU using AIDA64 for 30 minutes (I realised after the second test that I had run the first test for 34 minutes which made a huge difference to the average temps)
_Delta temp is the average load temp minus the ambient temp_
Ambient temp was recorded at the start, after 15 minutes and at the end of the test


----------



## Mergatroid

That's really strange bud. I noticed an almost 5c difference between my Scythe Slipstream 1900 RPM fans and these Casino fans I purchased:

http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX40631

I don't see how those blue LED fans can come close to the stock fans.

Are you plugging them direct into the PSU via molex?


----------



## tw33k

The fans are connected to my fan controller running at full speed. I think the UK-3000s pulling through the rad make the push fans redundant. After I got the same results for the AP-121s as I did for the stock fans I thought something went wrong and ran them both again

The AP-121s are really good intake fans. They focus airflow into a column that can be channeled through the rad. They create enough pressure to push air as far as 1 metre away apparently


----------



## nonomos

Hello







My first post ever but I have been reading alot and found this site to be a great source of information









I recently purchased a H80 knowing there would be some issues, but I like to fix things so it was just what I wanted









The cooler had a problem with the pump, but after following wlw wl's guide on how to make a voltagedropper it works like a charm!

Before I had a NZXT Havic 140, it did a really good job but was much to big imo. It also covered up almost 2 RAM slots. Besides, it wont come close to the performance of the H80.

Uploaded a pic


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> I've been running my H100with stock fans/UK-3000. I recently bought 2 Corsair SP-120 to test on the H100. I tested the stock fans, the SP-120s and Silverstone AP-121s. I discovered that having the UK-3000s pulling through the rad, the push fans are of no use. The results where almost identical for each of the 3 fan types. I haven't tested without push fans yet but the results clearly show that the push fans are doing nothing.
> 3770K @ 4.6GHz 1.24v
> I stressed the CPU using AIDA64 for 30 minutes (I realised after the second test that I had run the first test for 34 minutes which made a huge difference to the average temps)
> _Delta temp is the average load temp minus the ambient temp_
> Ambient temp was recorded at the start, after 15 minutes and at the end of the test


Very nice graph! Could be a bit higher resolution though?. ... I guess you proved all you need is the 38mm Delta's screeming @3K rpm in a pull position to get decent performance out of the H100! Which also somewhat supports my theory that "most" push/pull setups are Overkill!








You might try repeating the whole process with P95 or IBT which really is the norm by which most of us do our initial testing, AND maybe do a test with the stock fans only in a "push" position (Corsair recommendations) and the UK-3000 in a "pull" only for comparison on the graph?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonomos*
> 
> Hello
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first post ever but I have been reading alot and found this site to be a great source of information
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently purchased a H80 knowing there would be some issues, but I like to fix things so it was just what I wanted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cooler had a problem with the pump, but after following wlw wl's guide on how to make a voltagedropper it works like a charm!
> Before I had a NZXT Havic 140, it did a really good job but was much to big imo. It also covered up almost 2 RAM slots. Besides, it wont come close to the performance of the H80.
> Uploaded a pic


Welcome NoNo! Maybe link us to wlw wl's guide so we can get a better handle (understanding?) of your problem and eventual solution? It's also beneficial to see what kind of performance improvement you got with the H80 over the Havicwith "hard #'s" and test environment


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Very nice graph! Could be a bit higher resolution though?. ... I agree with Merg your results don't make sense
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You might try repeating the whole process with P95 or IBT which really is the norm by which most of us do our initial testing


ummm..did you actually click the graph?









The results make perfect sense. The UK 3000s are doing all the work making the push fans redundant


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> ummm..did you actually click the graph?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The results make perfect sense. The UK 3000s are doing all the work making the push fans redundant


My apologies Tweek ... I misread your post initially (see edit above) ... and yes I clicked on the graph and even DL'd it and Magnified it ... and also tried expanding it in MS paint ...

EDIT: UHHHH nevermind now when I click on it it looks fine ... what a wierd day









EDIT2: I'd still be very interested in your results with a test of 1) the stock fans *only* in a "push" position (Corsair recommendations) ... and 2) *only* the UK-3000 in a "pull" with P95 or IBT or even AIDA64 for comparison with your setup


----------



## nonomos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Welcome NoNo! Maybe link us to wlw wl's guide so we can get a better handle (understanding?) of your problem and eventual solution? It's also beneficial to see what kind of performance improvement you got with the H80 over the Havicwith "hard #'s" and test environment


Thanks dude









Of course







http://www.overclock.net/g/a/679930/adapters/

The problem basically is a loud pump, no rattle, just loud. Really annoying. Combine that with the stockfans and you have a permanent headache.

With the Havic 140 I had temps at about 40ish (at idle), I had a NZXT H2 case aswell wich tends to get rather warm. So nothing was optimal there, while switching to the H80 I also purchased a HAF 932 Advanced. This has resulted in a much better circulation since my graphicscard is abit oversized. So comparing them is abit unfair since they have 2 totally different conditions







But its still a sick improvement in my opinion


----------



## SimpleAndClean

Bought another fan to push/pull my corsair... i can definitely tell that its super worth it.. ;P
it lower my cpu temp by ~5C. Very happy and worth it...


----------



## Markerx

is it wise to get a h100 on sale for 75 now or wait for the coolermaster one to come out?


----------



## Hemi177

Are these good temps for a 4.6 OC? I'm a first timer so I don't know if I used too much voltage as well :S This is an H100 on an i5 2500K running push pull stock corsair fans.


----------



## nonomos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HemiRoR*
> 
> Are these good temps for a 4.6 OC?


Hey dude,

Looks good to me, but at what speed are your fans running?

Heres my clock/temps, at approx. 4,0.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleAndClean*
> 
> Bought another fan to push/pull my corsair... i can definitely tell that its super worth it.. ;P
> it lower my cpu temp by ~5C. Very happy and worth it...


Very nice! But since your the 1st H40 in this thread (that I know of?) it would be nice to have some more specifics on what make/model/specs your new added fan was? Your final config? (rear/top intake or exhaust?) Lowering your temp -5c is signifigant! but is that at idle, load or both?, what were your ambients, and initial load/idle temps, what monitoring and load stressor programs were used? ... maybe post some screenshots like the guys below








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Markerx*
> 
> is it wise to get a h100 on sale for 75 now or wait for the coolermaster one to come out?


Without more info, system specs and general purpose (see link on my sig) it's hard to give a "complete" opinion. ... BUT it is a nobrainer to pick up an H100 for $75, where the heck is this deal? I thought I got a great deal @$90 way back when. And if your talking about the CM Eisberg depending on which model, you will be paying almost twice as much by the time you get your fans added in there, for a very slight performance boost IMO. But I do think the engineering/build quality/versatility of the Eisberg series is a bit superior ... you get what you pay for ... but in the case of an H100 @$75, your getting way more for your $$$'s








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HemiRoR*
> 
> Are these good temps for a 4.6 OC? I'm a first timer so I don't know if I used too much voltage as well :S This is an H100 on an i5 2500K running push pull stock corsair fans.


Again without more details (see "SimpleAndClean above) it's hard to give a complete answer. BUT initially those temps look to be bit on the high side? With an 18c idle, I suspect your ambients (room temp) is around 60F-62F?, kinda chilly? And your load temps have some "odd" degree differences 51c-58c-57c-53c if your stressing with P95 or LinX for more than 20min minimum. I notice the "Max" load temps are all within 2-secs of each other and that tells me you didn't run your load stressor for an extended amount of time? Also your voltage is appx .02/.025v higher than mine for the same clock, that could account for slightly higher temps. Also why are you overclocking your BLCK (103.0 MHz)? If your new to this than OC'ing the bus speed can be quite tricky for a stable 24/7 overclock with the 1155 platform? ... And to clarify your running (4) stock Corsair H100 fans right? ... what did Corsair charge for the extra 2 fans (just curious?) and are you running them through the Corsair controller on Low/Med/or High? or a seperate controller?
All in all it looks like your doing a fine job so far!









EDIT: For reference my [email protected] 1.34v (CPU-Z) running P95 for 30min = Ambient 60F / idle 18c / load 52c-56c with my bastardized push/pull [2-stock Corsair H100 fans pushing / 1 CM 200mm pulling] in a Top Exhaust config using the Corsair controller on the Low setting.








@4.8 / 1.432v Prime95 20min A62F/i18c/L58-63-60-59c
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonomos*
> 
> Hey dude,
> Looks good to me, but at what speed are your fans running?
> Heres my clock/temps, at approx. 4,0.


Hey NoNo, not trying to be a buzz kill, it's great/fun to get new guys in here







but your volts are way high for an unloaded CPU @4.0GHz, ... and your load temps reflect that (your pic shows load 6.2%) which really isn't a good/fair? comparison for HemiRor. ... UNLESS your running "Fixed" voltage? and I'm not sure why you'd be doing that unless your going for Max clocks? Suicides? ... In which case we might se 1.4++ - 1.5v voltages???
I suspect your "screenies" were not taken at the same time under the same load?









Guys please try and post with more complete info, it's beneficial for you and the whole community









@Tweek ... are you going to do a test with the stock fans only in a "push" position (Corsair recommendations) and the UK-3000 in a "pull" only for comparison on the graph? I know I'm not the only one interested in your expanded results?









[


----------



## nonomos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Hey NoNo, not trying to be a buzz kill, it's great/fun to get new guys in here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but your volts are way high for an unloaded CPU @4.0GHz, ... and your load temps reflect that (your pic shows load 6.2%) which really isn't a good/fair? comparison for HemiRor. ... UNLESS your running "Fixed" voltage? and I'm not sure why you'd be doing that unless your going for Max clocks? Suicides? ... In which case we might se 1.4++ - 1.5v voltages???
> I suspect your "screenies" were not taken at the same time under the same load?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guys please try and post with more complete info, it's beneficial for you and the whole community


Hey dude







Thanks for giving input







The clock is done by OC genius







I am still new to these things to bare with me please. And you are of course correct, my image was a poor comparison but it seemed logical at the time lol.

So I should lower my voltages eh?







By how much?


----------



## Hemi177

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> Again without more details (see "SimpleAndClean above) it's hard to give a complete answer. BUT initially those temps look to be bit on the high side? With an 18c idle, I suspect your ambients (room temp) is around 60F-62F?, kinda chilly? And your load temps have some "odd" degree differences 51c-58c-57c-53c if your stressing with P95 or LinX for more than 20min minimum. I notice the "Max" load temps are all within 2-secs of each other and that tells me you didn't run your load stressor for an extended amount of time? Also your voltage is appx .02/.025v higher than mine for the same clock, that could account for slightly higher temps. Also why are you overclocking your BLCK (103.0 MHz)? If your new to this than OC'ing the bus speed can be quite tricky for a stable 24/7 overclock with the 1155 platform? ... And to clarify your running (4) stock Corsair H100 fans right? ... what did Corsair charge for the extra 2 fans (just curious?) and are you running them through the Corsair controller on Low/Med/or High? or a seperate controller?
> All in all it looks like your doing a fine job so far!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: For reference my [email protected] 1.34v (CPU-Z) running P95 for 30min = Ambient 60F / idle 18c / load 52c-56c with my bastardized push/pull [2-stock Corsair H100 fans pushing / 1 CM 200mm pulling] in a Top Exhaust config using the Corsair controller on the Low setting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @4.8 / 1.432v Prime95 20min A62F/i18c/L58-63-60-59c


Oh, sorry. Forgot to say that those were my temps with prime running full blast in the background if that's what you are confused about? Here they are at idle, And one of them full load for 8 or so hours. The other two corsair fans are actually from my C70, not sure if they are the same model as those that come with the H100 (Although they look identical) They seem to be doing the job for now. Ultimately I'd like to buy 4xSp120 High performance corsair fans. The pump controller is set to full blast, but, if I change it to the quiet setting my fan speeds don't seem to change at all? No audible differences either. The TIM I used was this guy: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100017 I burned it in for a 24-hour session a few days ago and all seemed to be quite stable so far. What should the BLCK really be at optimally for a clock like this? (Excuse my noobiness to this :3) Think I could probably bump my voltage down a wee bit then as well? If you'd like I'd be glad to provide a picture of how airflow is setup inside my rig. As for the ambient temp, it can really vary. I'm in the basement, so the fireplace goes on and off occasionally. Temp ranges between 58-71F mostly. The temp for idle levels at about 18-19c once running for a while. The screeny below was after boot-up.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> ummm..did you actually click the graph?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The results make perfect sense. The UK 3000s are doing all the work making the push fans redundant


In other words, just push or pull for an H100 is fine. However, on a thicker rad push/pull does have an advantage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Markerx*
> 
> is it wise to get a h100 on sale for 75 now or wait for the coolermaster one to come out?


Lol, you're asking in the Hydro thread? Of course, go with the H100...lol...seriously though, I haven't seen anything on the new CM unit, although one or two people have mentioned it. Do you have a link to share? I have seen some of their older units, and I would easily prefer an H100.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HemiRoR*
> 
> Are these good temps for a 4.6 OC? I'm a first timer so I don't know if I used too much voltage as well :S This is an H100 on an i5 2500K running push pull stock corsair fans.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1082448/


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonomos*
> 
> Hey dude,
> Looks good to me, but at what speed are your fans running?
> Heres my clock/temps, at approx. 4,0.


Those temps are super low. What are you guys using to load the system for the temp tests? I don't see anything in your pictures indicating what percentage your CPUs are running at. Without this data your temps are pretty meaningless information.

Include in your screenshots Prime 95 running for a half hour, or even better Intel Burn Test running at half an hour. That software will fully load your CPUs and really give you an idea of how good the temps are. Watch out with Intel Burn Test though because it really tortures the system. Keep your eye on the temps while it's running.

Running Intel Burn Test for a half hour, with my system also running Furmark to add additional heat from the video cards, my H100 cooled i5 running at 4.3 GHz will hit 70c. My target for this processor was to keep the cpu under 73c using this software.

I agree with @TomcatV.

Many people are posting temps and tests, but not giving the relevant data or not using any standard software like Furmark, Prime95 or Intel Burn Test. Without doing this, and providing an ambient temperature and idle temperature, there's really no point posting at all.

When I torture test my system, I run CPU monitoring software, GPU monitoring software, CPUz to show the frequency the CPU is running at, and both (Prime95 and Furmark) or (Intel Burn Test and Frumark) to provide a load for the load test. I should note that I stress test my entire system, so that's why I add Furmark in there. Testing without Furmark is valid for CPU only testing.

As an example, here is a picture of a test I did a while ago. I use two monitors so I can run a full screen Furmark to generate gpu heat, and I can display the temp monitoring and other software on the second monitor:



That image was testing my older Core 2 Quad which was overclocked to 3.3GHz from 2.5GHz. However, that's the way I always stress test my system although now I usually use Intel Burn Test over Prime 95 because IBT really _beats the crap_ out of your CPU.

The point is to have a maximum load for temperature tests, and an Idle test, and compare the temps between the two making sure the ambient is the same for both tests, or at least taking it into account.

So, unfortunately, without knowing your ambient, and what you were running, I cannot compare your i5 temps to mine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HemiRoR*
> 
> Oh, sorry. Forgot to say that those were my temps with prime running full blast in the background if that's what you are confused about? Here they are at idle, And one of them full load for 8 or so hours. The other two corsair fans are actually from my C70, not sure if they are the same model as those that come with the H100 (Although they look identical) They seem to be doing the job for now. Ultimately I'd like to buy 4xSp120 High performance corsair fans. The pump controller is set to full blast, but, if I change it to the quiet setting my fan speeds don't seem to change at all? No audible differences either. The TIM I used was this guy: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100017 I burned it in for a 24-hour session a few days ago and all seemed to be quite stable so far. What should the BLCK really be at optimally for a clock like this? (Excuse my noobiness to this :3) Think I could probably bump my voltage down a wee bit then as well? If you'd like I'd be glad to provide a picture of how airflow is setup inside my rig. As for the ambient temp, it can really vary. I'm in the basement, so the fireplace goes on and off occasionally. Temp ranges between 58-71F mostly. The temp for idle levels at about 18-19c once running for a while. The screeny below was after boot-up.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1082944/
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1082945/


That's a lot better indicator. Those temps are quite low for a loaded i5. Try running IBT for a half hour and see if there's a difference. Just FYI, the TIM on the H80/100 is actually excellent TIM. Corsair claims it's as good as Shin Etsu TIM.


----------



## tw33k

Push/pull would be beneficial with lower spec fans but not when mixing with UK-3000s


----------



## nonomos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Those temps are super low. What are you guys using to load the system for the temp tests? I don't see anything in your pictures indicating what percentage your CPUs are running at. Without this data your temps are pretty meaningless information.
> Include in your screenshots Prime 95 running for a half hour, or even better Intel Burn Test running at half an hour. That software will fully load your CPUs and really give you an idea of how good the temps are. Watch out with Intel Burn Test though because it really tortures the system. Keep your eye on the temps while it's running.
> Running Intel Burn Test for a half hour, with my system also running Furmark to add additional heat from the video cards, my H100 cooled i5 running at 4.3 GHz will hit 70c. My target for this processor was to keep the cpu under 73c using this software.
> I agree with @TomcatV.


Thanks for your input, I am too still a novice so I really appreciate this







Sorry for posting meaningless info btw









I got the Prime 95 and ran for for 30ish minutes.

As TomcatV said, he thought I had high voltages, as I have not adjusted this myself, what voltage should I have?
And is there any reason for the cores to have that much of a temp diff? Is it normal?


----------



## K62-RIG

Welcome Nonomos







There's no such thing as meaningless info as far as I am concerned.


----------



## FR0STBITE

I'm contemplating on the H80 or the H100. I think in going to go with the H100. I read that i will fit just fine on my Corsair 600T SE case. I'm using the Phenom II x6 on a Sabertooth 990FX. Any Idea what kind of temps are normal if i went that rout? Right now i get 22 C with the Cooler Master TPC-812. I know i can get colder. Any suggestions or comments will def be appreciated.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonomos*
> 
> Hey dude
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for giving input
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The clock is done by OC genius
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am still new to these things to bare with me please. And you are of course correct, my image was a poor comparison but it seemed logical at the time lol.
> So I should lower my voltages eh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By how much?


No problem, that's why were here







... However as your knowledge/experience grows I think you'll find that Overclocking directly through your bios is not only more effective but more FUN







Most of us are not big fans of software overclocking (OC Genius







) , and consequently are not well versed in it







Quick answer--> if OC Genious is using a "fixed voltage" which kind of defeats the awesomness of the Intell/1155 platform then NO but maybe yes??? ... And to get into it here in the Hydro thread wouldn't be appropriate ... check *[THIS]* thread out for starters and then possibly start your own thread as you become more familiar with the process. You'll find the OCN community extremely helpful









You might like this guide to as it is more catered to newer overclockers even though it is oriented towards ASRock boards ...
http://www.overclock.net/t/1198504/complete-overclocking-guide-sandy-bridge-ivy-bridge-asrock-edition

Sins Ivy Bridge OC Guide is excellent also! *[HERE]* and 95% applicable to SB.

Your doing fine ... no "gross" or immediate concerns that I can see ... the temp variation in your cores while on the larger side is nothing out of the norm ... and your core voltage 1.352v [email protected]% load as pictured, could be lower BUT is not out of the "norm" either ... you'll know what I mean as you delve into the links above ... Also see my comments about IBT below









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HemiRoR*
> 
> Oh, sorry. Forgot to say that those were my temps with prime running full blast in the background if that's what you are confused about? Here they are at idle, And one of them full load for 8 or so hours. The other two corsair fans are actually from my C70, not sure if they are the same model as those that come with the H100 (Although they look identical) They seem to be doing the job for now. Ultimately I'd like to buy 4xSp120 High performance corsair fans. The pump controller is set to full blast, but, if I change it to the quiet setting my fan speeds don't seem to change at all? No audible differences either. The TIM I used was this guy: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100017 I burned it in for a 24-hour session a few days ago and all seemed to be quite stable so far. What should the BLCK really be at optimally for a clock like this? (Excuse my noobiness to this :3) Think I could probably bump my voltage down a wee bit then as well? If you'd like I'd be glad to provide a picture of how airflow is setup inside my rig. As for the ambient temp, it can really vary. I'm in the basement, so the fireplace goes on and off occasionally. Temp ranges between 58-71F mostly. The temp for idle levels at about 18-19c once running for a while. The screeny below was after boot-up.


Very Good ... I think your doing fine, but with your wildly varying "Ambient" temp range it's hard to comment or be more specific unless you can specify your ambients at the time of the screenshot.
I suspect the 2 fans from the old H70 aren't compatable with the H100 controller, and originally the H70 was sold with no fans so the end-user could choose their own. So who knows for sure which model they are? Try disconnecting those two fans and see if you regain control of the (2) stock H100 fans ... you may be surprised how well they perform on their own







...

Also please heed _Mergatron_? ... *Mergatroid's* advice regarding the use of IBT, I only use it to MAX test/stress a cooling system as I don't believe it is a viable indication of "Real World" CPU stress/loads







With IBT properly pumping 110w-115w / 110+ G-Flops you can see your load temps as much as 10c higher than a normal P95 Blend test depending on the chip/board/OC/volts/and cooling. For reference my setup runs 5-7c hotter with IBT









Edit: OOOpps "Mergatron"? Must have been in my "Transformers" character mode







Apologies LoL

EDIT: Regarding your base clock sometimes denoted as "Host Overide Base Clock"(BCLK), in your bios, I'd set it to 100.0 for now, but also note if "Spread Spectrum" is set to default "Auto" your BCLK may read as 98.??? or something not exactly 100.0, which is OK, but a little annoying to see your 4.6 overclock reading 4.598 or something slightly under a 4.60GHz OC. And if you disable Spread Spectrum, alot of guys do, just be aware it "can?" cause some instability (including peripherals) that is hard to track down ...you'll know what I mean if you dive into some of my OC links for NoNo above








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> Push/pull would be beneficial with lower spec fans but not when mixing with UK-3000s


I still think your graph would be even more awesom if you added in the push only pull only variances I suggested earlier







Then I would graciously link to you and your graph regarding the push/pull/$$$/performance debates that come up quite often








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FR0STBITE*
> 
> I'm contemplating on the H80 or the H100. I think in going to go with the H100. I read that i will fit just fine on my Corsair 600T SE case. I'm using the Phenom II x6 on a Sabertooth 990FX. Any Idea what kind of temps are normal if i went that rout? Right now i get 22 C with the Cooler Master TPC-812. I know i can get colder. Any suggestions or comments will def be appreciated.


It has been said countless times in this thread, to go with the H100 over the H80 if you have the room ... and even more so if you can find MarkX's $75 dollar deal! In a nutshell the H80 comes pretty close to the H100's performance for an "average OC?" but at the expence of more "noise" doing so








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I don't see anything in your pictures indicating what percentage your CPUs are running at. Without this data your temps are pretty meaningless information.


Hey Merg I know you know this, but the CPU load can be read at the top of the "Real Temp" graph right in the middle ... This is why I originally commented his CPU volts were high, as in NoNo's 1st screenshot he was showing 1.344v (CPU-Z) @4.0GHz clock with only a 6.2% load, that's essentially an "idle" load, but with his "turbo" cpu clocks engaged, in any event that graph is hard to replicate at those clocks and load %'s for any real value for comparisons "as you stated"


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonomos*
> 
> Thanks for your input, I am too still a novice so I really appreciate this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for posting meaningless info btw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got the Prime 95 and ran for for 30ish minutes.
> 
> As TomcatV said, he thought I had high voltages, as I have not adjusted this myself, what voltage should I have?
> And is there any reason for the cores to have that much of a temp diff? Is it normal?


It's no problem. I did the same thing the first couple of times I posted temp tests. The guys in this and the Graphite thread got me doing it better. Your max temps look pretty good for a 4.2 GHz clock. A little better than mine I think (although I'm not using the stock fans). When I say my system is hitting 70c I am referring to my hottest core with an ambient of about 23c. I also have a fair difference between cores. I would say you got it working really well. I just let my system do the overclocking, and when it was done, I tweaked it up until I hit 73c and then backed it off 200 MHz. I didn't adjust my voltages at all. I'm getting a 1GHz overclock out of it so I'm happy.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K62-RIG*
> 
> Welcome Nonomos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's no such thing as meaningless info as far as I am concerned.


Really?

32c

What's that mean? Pretty meaningless by itself, isn't it?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FR0STBITE*
> 
> I'm contemplating on the H80 or the H100. I think in going to go with the H100. I read that i will fit just fine on my Corsair 600T SE case. I'm using the Phenom II x6 on a Sabertooth 990FX. Any Idea what kind of temps are normal if i went that rout? Right now i get 22 C with the Cooler Master TPC-812. I know i can get colder. Any suggestions or comments will def be appreciated.


Yeah, they fit great in the 600T. If you're not already a member, you should join the Graphite thread. There are lots of 600Ts there running the H100.

See, this is an example of meaningless data. You get 22c when? Unloaded or loaded? When it's winter and your system is outside or when your at your cousins house in the outback, in mid summer, with no air conditioning?

22c is basically room temperature. You should not be able to achieve room temperature CPU temps with that cooler. My temp just browsing as I am now, with an i5 cooled by the H100, and an ambient temp of 22c (at the moment) is 36c to 41c with the really crappy Casino fans on my H100 I haven't gotten around to replacing yet. I don't know what's normal for your CPU, but I do know you won't achieve temps lower than ambient.

@TomcatV

Actually, the H70 CORE comes without fans, but the original H70 from last year did come with fans, so it depends on which version he's using if it came with fans or not.

"Mergatron"...lol...

One more little thing to mention regarding clocks. I always manually force my PCI bus clock to stay at 100MHz. I have had a few PCI peripherals fail to operate properly when the PCI clock is only 3MHz over 100. I don't know if this is normal or not, but it has happened to my last two ASUS motherboards. In one, a USB 3.0 card failed to be recognized as a USB 3.0 card and would only show up as a USB 2.0 card until I corrected the PCI bus speed to 100 MHz. That drove me nuts for a week or so (and the guys at Microsoft too). I honestly didn't think 3MHz would make any difference. Maybe it was a touchy card, but on my newer ASUS board I also had some little glitch, but I corrected it right away by reducing the PCI bus clock speed again. Whatever can go wrong will go wrong as Murphy's Law states.


----------



## SimpleAndClean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Very nice! But since your the 1st H40 in this thread (that I know of?) it would be nice to have some more specifics on what make/model/specs your new added fan was? Your final config? (rear/top intake or exhaust?) Lowering your temp -5c is signifigant! but is that at idle, load or both?, what were your ambients, and initial load/idle temps, what monitoring and load stressor programs were used? ... maybe post some screenshots like the guys below


2x noctua P12 for my PP setup. running rear intake.
the 5C drop is at idle. on load just around ~2C drop from 55C(1 fan rear intake). (room temp = 21C).



i notice something bit odd, it seems that both of my fan does not run at similar speed.
although i have disable fan control so it ran full speed. I have also notice my pump ran slightly slower by 50rpm.
i moved my pump from chassis #3 to cpu.

is it normal that the fan or pump running diff speed at different mobo pin? or something wrong with my mobo?


----------



## General121

60c on the h70 (or whatever that was) with a 2500k ocd to 4.2ghz? My 212+ keeps my 2500k at 70c with a 670 running full steam ahead too when folding! One stock fan in the 212+. 2500k is at 4.7ghz @ 1.42vcore


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleAndClean*
> 
> 2x noctua P12 for my PP setup. running rear intake.
> the 5C drop is at idle. on load just around ~2C drop from 55C(1 fan rear intake). (room temp = 21C).
> 
> i notice something bit odd, it seems that both of my fan does not run at similar speed.
> although i have disable fan control so it ran full speed. I have also notice my pump ran slightly slower by 50rpm.
> i moved my pump from chassis #3 to cpu.
> is it normal that the fan or pump running diff speed at different mobo pin? or something wrong with my mobo?


Very nice and thankyou +R for you







, your info will be helpful in the future, as many of us aren't to familiar w/the H40. It looks like your getting all you can get out of the H40 with those "highly reputable" Noctua's! And I'm unexpectedly impressed with the performance of the Corsair entry level AIO. Though I'd suggest using "Real Temp"
[HERE] as a monitoring program, most of us do and it keeps diagnoses more consistant. You might also find HWMonitor useful as well [HERE].

I don't think there is anything wrong with your motherboard, it is not unusual for fans (even high quality ones like yours) to run at slightly different RPM's, even as much as 100rpm, maybe more? I haven't seen a motherboard yet that puts out completely "synched" power for auxillary fans, even Asus who has the best IMO bios fan controll. You'd need a dedicated fan controller for that. AND as Corsair recommends your pump should be connected to the CPU fan connector, it will also allow you to have a more accurate reading in the bios of your pump speed









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> 60c on the h70 (or whatever that was) with a 2500k ocd to 4.2ghz? My 212+ keeps my 2500k at 70c with a 670 running full steam ahead too when folding! One stock fan in the 212+. 2500k is at 4.7ghz @ 1.42vcore


Yea it's hard to beat the 212+ for performance/dollar! But let's face it ...

*"You are not as "Cool" as us"







*

E-Peen anyone


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Very nice and thankyou +R for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , your info will be helpful in the future, as many of us aren't to familiar w/the H40. It looks like your getting all you can get out of the H40 with those "highly reputable" Noctua's! And I'm unexpectedly impressed with the performance of the Corsair entry level AIO. Though I'd suggest using "Real Temp"
> [HERE] as a monitoring program, most of us do and it keeps diagnoses more consistant. You might also find HWMonitor useful as well [HERE].
> I don't think there is anything wrong with your motherboard, it is not unusual for fans (even high quality ones like yours) to run at slightly different RPM's, even as much as 100rpm, maybe more? I haven't seen a motherboard yet that puts out completely "synched" power for auxillary fans, even Asus who has the best IMO bios fan controll. You'd need a dedicated fan controller for that. AND as Corsair recommends your pump should be connected to the CPU fan connector, it will also allow you to have a more accurate reading in the bios of your pump speed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yea it's hard to beat the 212+ for performance/dollar! But let's face it ...
> *"You are not as "Cool" as us"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> E-Peen anyone










you're jealous of my...my. ...huge ugly heatsink!


----------



## Ceadderman

PC Probe II is pretty damned good for reporting Temperatures as well. So if you have an ASUS board I'd recommend running that. Mine is on 24/7.









~Ceadder


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you're jealous of my...my. ...huge ugly heatsink!


Uhmmm ... maybe not ... I used to have a D-14 "Bigger and Uglier"







...

*BUT I do like your Avatar!







*

And I want your 670 ... and ... and ...


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Uhmmm ... maybe not ... I used to have a D-14 "Bigger and Uglier"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> *BUT I do like your Avatar!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> And I want your 670 ... and ... and ...


hehe. Yes, I worked for this 670...When prices drop and I get a PSU to handle SLI, i will have two...


----------



## Eric335

Hello all,

I just RMAed my H100 because of some issues with the fan controller. I got the replacement today, and i plugged in only the power (not the CPU-FAN header) and am letting the pump run while its sitting on my desk.

I am doing this to make sure that the brick doesnt leak onto my components. How long would an appropriate test be? Couple hours? A day?

I really want to get the H100 back in the computer asap


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eric335*
> 
> Hello all,
> I just RMAed my H100 because of some issues with the fan controller. I got the replacement today, and i plugged in only the power (not the CPU-FAN header) and am letting the pump run while its sitting on my desk.
> I am doing this to make sure that the brick doesnt leak onto my components. How long would an appropriate test be? Couple hours? A day?
> I really want to get the H100 back in the computer asap


24 hours should be sufficient.


----------



## Eric335

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z3r0_k00l75*
> 
> 24 hours should be sufficient.


Lets see if i can make it that long









Now, i bumped into the H100 while its running, and the thing made a loud "sucking" or "gurgling" sound. It went away after 15 seconds. Is this just an air bubble? It goes away after seconds, and is just kind of odd.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleAndClean*
> 
> 2x noctua P12 for my PP setup. running rear intake.
> the 5C drop is at idle. on load just around ~2C drop from 55C(1 fan rear intake). (room temp = 21C).
> 
> i notice something bit odd, it seems that both of my fan does not run at similar speed.
> although i have disable fan control so it ran full speed. I have also notice my pump ran slightly slower by 50rpm.
> i moved my pump from chassis #3 to cpu.
> is it normal that the fan or pump running diff speed at different mobo pin? or something wrong with my mobo?


Are they both plugged into CPU_FAN headers? If you don't have two CPU_FAN headers, or a CPU_FAN and a OPT CPU_FAN header, then they will run at different speeds unless you use a splitter to run them both from the CPU_FAN header.

PWR_FAN, CHA_FAN and other headers do not base their RPM output on the CPU temp as the CPU_FAN header does. You should run your pump from a chassis or power header, and run the two fans, using a splitter, from the CPU_FAN header. (Note that this is assuming you fans are PWM fans (4-pin)).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eric335*
> 
> Hello all,
> I just RMAed my H100 because of some issues with the fan controller. I got the replacement today, and i plugged in only the power (not the CPU-FAN header) and am letting the pump run while its sitting on my desk.
> I am doing this to make sure that the brick doesnt leak onto my components. How long would an appropriate test be? Couple hours? A day?
> I really want to get the H100 back in the computer asap


You shouldn't have to run it like that at all. In fact, I don't know anyone who does that with closed loop water coolers. It's pretty rare for them to leak. Plus, any possible leak may not even show up until the unit is warm from cooling a cpu which would increase the pressure inside the loop. Basically, you're just wasting your time running an H100 on your desk.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eric335*
> 
> Lets see if i can make it that long
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, i bumped into the H100 while its running, and the thing made a loud "sucking" or "gurgling" sound. It went away after 15 seconds. Is this just an air bubble? It goes away after seconds, and is just kind of odd.


Not to many guys leak test a self-contained (closed-loop) unit, especially with Corsairs rep and failure rate, but since you're already into it I think 1-2 hour's is more than sufficient, personally I think 15-20 min would be enough. It's not like builing a custom loop, usually with the Corsair self contained units either they work or the don't, you'll know right away. The cavitation noise (gurgling) you hear when rapidly moving (bumping) the pump is normal. ... and not recommended for normal use LoL








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Are they both plugged into CPU_FAN headers? If you don't have two CPU_FAN headers, or a CPU_FAN and a OPT CPU_FAN header, then they will run at different speeds unless you use a splitter to run them both from the CPU_FAN header.
> PWR_FAN, CHA_FAN and other headers do not base their RPM output on the CPU temp as the CPU_FAN header does. You should run your pump from a chassis or power header, and run the two fans, using a splitter, from the CPU_FAN header. (Note that this is assuming you fans are PWM fans (4-pin)).


Surprizingly the Asus P8Z77-M PRO has only 1 CPU_FAN header, but 4 - CHA_FAN headers. And if I'm not mistaken "Simple-Clean" is running 2 highly efficient and Quiet Noctua NF-P12 @full 1300rpm, they are so quiet no reason to control or dial them down even though they do have a 4pin PWM connector ... But if he were to purchase a splitter he could use the CPU sensor to automatically idle them down some more although I bet the noise reduction would be unnoticeable?
Just my opinion though, if I had that set-up I'd probably use a splitter also


----------



## SimpleAndClean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Very nice and thankyou +R for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , your info will be helpful in the future, as many of us aren't to familiar w/the H40. It looks like your getting all you can get out of the H40 with those "highly reputable" Noctua's! And I'm unexpectedly impressed with the performance of the Corsair entry level AIO. Though I'd suggest using "Real Temp"
> [HERE] as a monitoring program, most of us do and it keeps diagnoses more consistant. You might also find HWMonitor useful as well [HERE].
> I don't think there is anything wrong with your motherboard, it is not unusual for fans (even high quality ones like yours) to run at slightly different RPM's, even as much as 100rpm, maybe more? I haven't seen a motherboard yet that puts out completely "synched" power for auxillary fans, even Asus who has the best IMO bios fan controll. You'd need a dedicated fan controller for that. AND as Corsair recommends your pump should be connected to the CPU fan connector, it will also allow you to have a more accurate reading in the bios of your pump speed


I read somewhere that Intel recommend Ivy Bridge user to use Aida64 as it is more accurate compared to other program.
Plus aida64 has customized widget that can be placed in desktop so i can monitor anything easily. ;P here is a pic of it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Are they both plugged into CPU_FAN headers? If you don't have two CPU_FAN headers, or a CPU_FAN and a OPT CPU_FAN header, then they will run at different speeds unless you use a splitter to run them both from the CPU_FAN header.
> PWR_FAN, CHA_FAN and other headers do not base their RPM output on the CPU temp as the CPU_FAN header does. You should run your pump from a chassis or power header, and run the two fans, using a splitter, from the CPU_FAN header. (Note that this is assuming you fans are PWM fans (4-pin)).


my mobo only had 1 CPU_FAN header. Ill give it a shot splitting the 2 fan and plug it in the CPU_FAN header and the pump in CHA_FAN.









*Edit : Ive split the 2 fan and plug it in CPU_FAN and the pump at CHA_FAN. not much different, hope the fan ran at same speed. lol.


----------



## nonomos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> No problem, that's why were here


Yeah, the real clocking is what I am aiming for, but since I do not know even where to start I'll just let software guide me for now. I will most def check those other threads out, thx a bunch dude!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> It's no problem. I did the same thing the first couple of times I posted temp tests


Well from now on I will only post highly relevant pics lol







Yeah? I really have no idea what my temps should look like, had really big problems before with my GPU reaching to about 85C while in bf3. So thats about all I have to compare to, I still think 60C is abit high. Im not on stock fans either, those corsair wich came in the box are more suitable for torture or maybe as afterburners for a jet.
I will dive into this manual overclocking as soon as my new PSU arrives







thx for your answer!


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonomos*
> 
> Yeah, the real clocking is what I am aiming for, but since I do not know even where to start I'll just let software guide me for now. I will most def check those other threads out, thx a bunch dude!!
> Well from now on I will only post highly relevant pics lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah? I really have no idea what my temps should look like, had really big problems before with my GPU reaching to about 85C while in bf3. So thats about all I have to compare to, I still think 60C is abit high. Im not on stock fans either, those corsair wich came in the box are more suitable for torture or maybe as afterburners for a jet.
> I will dive into this manual overclocking as soon as my new PSU arrives
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thx for your answer!


Well NoNo your doing fine ... it's alot to digest, and there is still alot to learn, and as you read up it will become more clear, but also generate a whole new slue of questions ... so post whatever your pics/questions are, and try to learn from the advice in this thread, there are alot of pretty experienced guys in here willing to help with well above the average advice given elsewhere?










IMHO ... Ballpark max temps to *"Start"* being concerned about when OC'ing a 2500K is +75c max load for a 24/7 OC ... lower is better! and even higher is OK to for quick benches or Suicides, some guys even run 80-85c all day long, but that's against my better judgement IMHO









GPU temps? If I knew your make/model 570 I could get real specific on OC'ing/temps/cooling







... But HeHe Lol ... 85c use to drive me crazy also years ago, so much so I still run a custom fan profile with MSI Afterburner [HERE] to prevent it







... But 85c is considered totally acceptable these days see [HERE] and another very good program for GPU's within ... EVGA's "PrecisionX" [HERE]

Finally, what fans did you replace the stock H80's with? Hang on to your stock fans, there're Bad-A** performer's and you may find use for them in the future as your OC's climb








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleAndClean*
> 
> *I read somewhere that Intel recommend Ivy Bridge user to use Aida64 as it is more accurate compared to other program.
> Plus aida64 has customized widget that can be placed in desktop so i can monitor anything easily.*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Surprizingly the Asus P8Z77-M PRO has only 1 CPU_FAN header, but 4 - CHA_FAN headers. And if I'm not mistaken "Simple-Clean" is running 2 highly efficient and Quiet Noctua NF-P12 @full 1300rpm, they are so quiet no reason to control or dial them down even though they do have a 4pin PWM connector ... But if he were to purchase a splitter he could use the CPU sensor to automatically idle them down some more although I bet the noise reduction would be unnoticeable?
> Just my opinion though, if I had that set-up I'd probably use a splitter also
Click to expand...

I think you misunderstood me, AIDa64 Extreme is a fine program, but for simplicity and congruity when asking for opinions/advice in this thread it is just easier and more familiar for most of us to quickly read a screenshot like below, where all the pertinent info is readily available *Including CPU load %* AND all the programs I suggested are FREE! ... where Aida64E is not. And Intel saying it is more accurate than the ones I sugested is just Bull







, follow the money


----------



## Eric335

Thanks for the insight, guys! Ill be putting it back on today. Guess i wasted some time


----------



## nonomos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Well NoNo your doing fine ... it's alot to digest, and there is still alot to learn, and as you read up it will become more clear, but also generate a whole new slue of questions ... so post whatever your pics/questions are, and try to learn from the advice in this thread, there are alot of pretty experienced guys in here willing to help with well above the average advice given elsewhere?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMHO ... Ballpark max temps to *"Start"* being concerned about when OC'ing a 2500K is +75c max load for a 24/7 OC ... lower is better! and even higher is OK to for quick benches or Suicides, some guys even run 80-85c all day long, but that's against my better judgement IMHO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GPU temps? If I knew your make/model 570 I could get real specific on OC'ing/temps/cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... But HeHe Lol ... 85c use to drive me crazy also years ago, so much so I still run a custom fan profile with MSI Afterburner [HERE] to prevent it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... But 85c is considered totally acceptable these days see [HERE] and another very good program for GPU's within ... EVGA's "PrecisionX" [HERE]
> Finally, what fans did you replace the stock H80's with? Hang on to your stock fans, there're Bad-A** performer's and you may find use for them in the future as your OC's climb


Thats a relief to hear







Yeah, this is like a new world to me. Its been there, around the corner all the time but I never have had the guts to go there. It was not until about a year ago that I started to become intrested in the temperatures. Thats when I realized there was alot that could be modded to improvement.

Well I would for the moment not be comfy at all having CPU temps at 75c either way







Is there any reasonable limit for what the H80 can handle perhaps? 4,2 feels quite stable tbh.

Well those temps with the GTX570 almost made me smash my pc to pieces. I invested so much money in my first build with that GPU that I thought I actually was doing something wrong. Then it turned out I had a case wich tended to get hot, and a really cramped setup inside. I actually bought the Accelero Xtreme III, my card is now quiet and does not exceed 50c. I have not dared to adjust any settings in the afterburner software yet, too much of a scaredy cat XD hahaha!

I replaced the stockfans with x2 Noctua P12, dont know if this was the best replacement but they dont make that jetplanetakingoffamplifiedx1000 noise


----------



## Erick Silver

Here are my current system stats:


I am folding on 5/6 cores to allow the 6th core to be able to run the GPU folding and any web surfing etc I need to do. Using a VMWare setup for the CPU folding and a 10core hack on the cpu.


----------



## Eric335

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonomos*
> 
> *I replaced the stockfans with x2 Noctua P12, dont know if this was the best replacement but they dont make that jetplanetakingoffamplifiedx1000 noise :*)


Hahahaha so true.


----------



## Lord Xeb

I got an H50 on my 6950 and an H100 on my 3570k 

H100 has 2 ultrakaze 3k on it


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonomos*
> 
> Thats a relief to hear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, this is like a new world to me. Its been there, around the corner all the time but I never have had the guts to go there. It was not until about a year ago that I started to become intrested in the temperatures. Thats when I realized there was alot that could be modded to improvement.
> Well I would for the moment not be comfy at all having CPU temps at 75c either way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any reasonable limit for what the H80 can handle perhaps? 4,2 feels quite stable tbh.
> Well those temps with the GTX570 almost made me smash my pc to pieces. I invested so much money in my first build with that GPU that I thought I actually was doing something wrong. Then it turned out I had a case wich tended to get hot, and a really cramped setup inside. I actually bought the Accelero Xtreme III, my card is now quiet and does not exceed 50c. I have not dared to adjust any settings in the afterburner software yet, too much of a scaredy cat XD hahaha!
> I replaced the stockfans with x2 Noctua P12, dont know if this was the best replacement but they dont make that jetplanetakingoffamplifiedx1000 noise


Those are excellent fans for replacement, especially for performance/noise! Your H80/Accelero is up to the job even in semi-hostile environments of 80F+ ambients with a well ventilated case, which sounds like you addressed, new HAF932/GPU solved, Accelero HSF nice/quiet ... crank it up no worries! Easily will do 800/2000 and probably only a mild volt bump if any with that setup. If you really crank it up? (900+) keep an eye on your rising case temps, the 570/Accelero will dump alot of heat in there








In a "real world" workload environment and average ambients you'll be fine with a 4.2GHz CPU clock as you'll probably achieve that without even messing with the CPU's core voltage, I bet you'll rarely even see your load temps approach 65c







... certainly nothing to worry about.

LoL ... when I 1st saw your max load temp concerns (CPU/GPU), I thought ohhh he's just an old-school guy getting caught up







... back in the day ... 55c for Athlon 64's / maybe 65c for a 965BE or Q6600 on a DDR2 platform / and 65c for nVidia 9800 GT's etc ... _Times have changed eHH_


----------



## nonomos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Those are excellent fans for replacement, especially for performance/noise!


Yeah, thats what I figured aswell but then again, I made no research before my purchase. This is something I really have to work on for my upcoming project though, never wanna purchase ****ty stuff again only becuase it "feels" right and looks neat. lol. But I am very pleased with the fans, except for the colour









Yeah actually I made some coffee and grew some balls. So the last hour I have been monitoring my stuff after "cranking" it up lol







Got my 3Dmark11 score up from about 5.7k to 6.3k








http://i49.tinypic.com/ka2syw.jpg : if anyones intrested, I actually think this will be regarded as OT? dunno. Sorry in that case :S

And no you are correct, I rarely see my temps exceed 65c, I have seen one of my cores on the CPU at 67c, but that has been on 99% load and it didnt stay there for long







Overall I am really satisfied with this build, except for the PSU wich seems to be running at 100% no matter what. Have a RMA waiting but I need to buy a replacement first lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> when I 1st saw your max load temp concerns (CPU/GPU), I thought ohhh he's just an old-school guy getting caught up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... back in the day ... 55c for Athlon 64's / maybe 65c for a 965BE or Q6600 on a DDR2 platform / and 65c for nVidia 9800 GT's etc ... _Times have changed eHH_


Honestly, Ive read this text now fifteen times and each time I get more and more confused. Care to explain in simpler words? lol.


----------



## nonomos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord Xeb*
> 
> I got an H50 on my 6950


If I am understanding this correct, you mounted a H50 on a GPU?


----------



## Lord Xeb

Correct.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1203636/official-amd-ati-gpu-mod-club-aka-the-red-mod/0_100


----------



## nonomos

Id love to see a picture of that







How do you keep the rest of the card cool?


----------



## Lord Xeb

See the link in the above post. I don't have pics of my cards, but there are pics of other people doing it. Temps don't break 50C even after playing 8 hours of BF3


----------



## nonomos

Sweet!







I will seriously consider doing that aswell. Still abit worried about the VRM temps though.


----------



## Lord Xeb

That is why they have this

http://www.overclock.net/t/1237219/tript-cc-620-920-h50-h70-gpu-brackets-fan-grills-custom-case-badges/1100


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonomos*
> 
> you are correct, I rarely see my temps exceed 65c, Overall I am really satisfied with this build, except for the PSU wich seems to be running at 100% no matter what.
> 
> *Honestly, Ive read this text now fifteen times and each time I get more and more confused*. Care to explain in simpler words? lol.


Yea ramblings of an old-school overclocker, alot of people wouldn't "make hay" of that, but I was basically making the statement of how much higher the "safe max clocks" are today of CPU/GPU's alike compared to components 6-7-8 years ago. I remember cringing when my Opty148/180 would start going North of 55c max load ... the equivalent of an Intel @75c-85c today









That's a pretty decent PSU/$$$, a re-branded Seasonic I believe, pretty good rep, but over the years for overclocking I've found, I'd never find fault with anyone who wanted to invest more $$$ in a "Gold" certified PSU








Not clear what you mean running @100%? Do you mean the fan is to noisy?

Resolution of this pic [http://i49.tinypic.com/ka2syw.jpg] again is a little low for me, I think Afterburner reads 883 core / 1.xxv bump ... maybe it's this laptop but I just can't read the details. Including the make of your card? DL'd the pic/magnified it blah blah


----------



## Markerx

anyone have any suggestions for red led fans that work well with the h100?


----------



## Erick Silver

Cooler master R4s


----------



## SimpleAndClean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I think you misunderstood me, AIDa64 Extreme is a fine program, but for simplicity and congruity when asking for opinions/advice in this thread it is just easier and more familiar for most of us to quickly read a screenshot like below, where all the pertinent info is readily available *Including CPU load %* AND all the programs I suggested are FREE! ... where Aida64E is not. And Intel saying it is more accurate than the ones I sugested is just Bull
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , follow the money


Alright, got you. ill use it in the future to show my computer temp.


----------



## OverClocker55

Just took my H60 off and the thermal paste is all crusty. Oh god 0_0


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Markerx*
> 
> anyone have any suggestions for red led fans that work well with the h100?


I had great success with $4 Red Yate Loons on my H50 when I ran that. I'm running $4 Yate Loon Non LED 20mm body fans with similar success on my GT Stealth 360 II. I see no need to spend a fortune on fans for an AIO cooler.













~Ceadder


----------



## nonomos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Yea ramblings of an old-school overclocker, alot of people wouldn't "make hay" of that, but I was basically making the statement of how much higher the "safe max clocks" are today of CPU/GPU's alike compared to components 6-7-8 years ago. I remember cringing when my Opty148/180 would start going North of 55c max load ... the equivalent of an Intel @75c-85c today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a pretty decent PSU/$$$, a re-branded Seasonic I believe, pretty good rep, but over the years for overclocking I've found, I'd never find fault with anyone who wanted to invest more $$$ in a "Gold" certified PSU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not clear what you mean running @100%? Do you mean the fan is to noisy?
> Resolution of this pic [http://i49.tinypic.com/ka2syw.jpg] again is a little low for me, I think Afterburner reads 883 core / 1.xxv bump ... maybe it's this laptop but I just can't read the details. Including the make of your card? DL'd the pic/magnified it blah blah


Haha ok it makes sense now








6-7 years ago my concerns of a PC didnt go further than if it started or not.

Yeah, my TX750 came broken I think, the fan inside it runs at full speed from startup. It easily is the noisiest component I have.

Sorry about that, tinypic is useless. Should have been aware of that by now. Here is a new link: http://imageshack.us/f/837/gputemps.jpg/


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I had great success with $4 Red Yate Loons on my H50 when I ran that. I'm running $4 Yate Loon Non LED 20mm body fans with similar success on my GT Stealth 360 II. I see no need to spend a fortune on fans for an AIO cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


kitties


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonomos*
> 
> Sorry about that, tinypic is useless. Should have been aware of that by now. Here is a new link: http://imageshack.us/f/837/gputemps.jpg/


We are a bit off topic here, but now I can read your screenshot, so ... that version of OCCT may be outdated, check update [HERE] ... why I say that is ...

1) your running in DX10, should be DX11
2) 110+ million errors? OCCT should crash/lockup with that many?
3) Although your CPU temps are about right, your CPU usage/loads should be higher 30% not 14%?
4) CPU should also be engaging your OC @4.2GHz not stock 3.3 clocks or at least be boosting to 3.7-3.8GHz clocks ... Oppps forgot, if your still doing OC Genie thing that could be the problem? You can double check this in 3DMark11 especially your "Physics" scores









5) MSI Afterburner ... your using a newer version than I (2.2.4 vs 2.1.0) along with more recent Nvidia drivers (306.97 vs 296.10) BUT your "Shader Clock" is not showing as synched with your "Core Clock" and your core voltage seems low for a "reference" card, 975mV vs 988mV for mine, could be what make/brand card your using??? *BUT your temps seem to be excellent* ... you have tons of "headroom" to bump the voltage if you wish, where you will see the biggest gains from OC'ing the core clocks/volts ... overclocking the memory beyond 2000 is pretty finicky with the 570 and I'd actually back it down to stock 1900 until I found my max core clocks/volts, then fool with the memory if you like, but the memory won't give you as big a performance boost and can make things more unstable and hard to track down in "real world" stressloads









Along with 3DMark you may also like this program for "real world" GPU stressing, it's one of my favorites ... Unigen Heaven [HERE]

That should keep you busy for awhile ... time to ditch OC Genie?







take care T
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Here are my current system stats:
> 
> I am folding on 5/6 cores to allow the 6th core to be able to run the GPU folding and any web surfing etc I need to do. Using a VMWare setup for the CPU folding and a 10core hack on the cpu.


Very impressive for an H60, especially with those Hot-runnin Phenoms! Care to share your setup?
Fan(s)/intake-exhaust/push-pull/AMBIENTS etc ....


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleAndClean*
> 
> I read somewhere that Intel recommend Ivy Bridge user to use Aida64 as it is more accurate compared to other program.
> Plus aida64 has customized widget that can be placed in desktop so i can monitor anything easily. ;P here is a pic of it.
> 
> my mobo only had 1 CPU_FAN header. Ill give it a shot splitting the 2 fan and plug it in the CPU_FAN header and the pump in CHA_FAN.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit : Ive split the 2 fan and plug it in CPU_FAN and the pump at CHA_FAN. not much different, hope the fan ran at same speed. lol.


Doesn't it just SUCK that Windows 8 is doing away with widgets?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonomos*
> 
> Yeah, the real clocking is what I am aiming for, but since I do not know even where to start I'll just let software guide me for now. I will most def check those other threads out, thx a bunch dude!!
> Well from now on I will only post highly relevant pics lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah? I really have no idea what my temps should look like, had really big problems before with my GPU reaching to about 85C while in bf3. So thats about all I have to compare to, I still think 60C is abit high. Im not on stock fans either, those corsair wich came in the box are more suitable for torture or maybe as afterburners for a jet.
> I will dive into this manual overclocking as soon as my new PSU arrives
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thx for your answer!


A month or so ago I was having some driver issues with my HD69XX cards. During the course of the problems I was having, I was using my system and noticed it seemed quieter than usual. I was running GW2. I checked my GPU temps, and they were running over 100c. I couldn't believe it.

The fault was Afterburner. While I was screwing around with the drivers, something happened to afterburner and it stopped controlling the fans on my cards. I have it set up for a custom ramp, so they are noisy but cooler than stock. For some reason, it just stopped controlling the fans and I couldn't get it to work until I removed AB and reinstalled it.

My GPUs can hit 80c when I smack them around with Furmark (76c for the bottom card and 80c for the top card), but usually when I'm gaming they stay under 70.

I want two of these:

http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX39770

But I can't afford them for a while.


----------



## Erick Silver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> We are a bit off topic here, but now I can read your screenshot, so ... that version of OCCT may be outdated, check update [HERE] ... why I say that is ...
> 1) your running in DX10, should be DX11
> 2) 110+ million errors? OCCT should crash/lockup with that many?
> 3) Although your CPU temps are about right, your CPU usage/loads should be higher 30% not 14%?
> 4) CPU should also be engaging your OC @4.2GHz not stock 3.3 clocks or at least be boosting to 3.7-3.8GHz clocks ... Oppps forgot, if your still doing OC Genie thing that could be the problem? You can double check this in 3DMark11 especially your "Physics" scores
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5) MSI Afterburner ... your using a newer version than I (2.2.4 vs 2.1.0) along with more recent Nvidia drivers (306.97 vs 296.10) BUT your "Shader Clock" is not showing as synched with your "Core Clock" and your core voltage seems low for a "reference" card, 975mV vs 988mV for mine, could be what make/brand card your using??? *BUT your temps seem to be excellent* ... you have tons of "headroom" to bump the voltage if you wish, where you will see the biggest gains from OC'ing the core clocks/volts ... overclocking the memory beyond 2000 is pretty finicky with the 570 and I'd actually back it down to stock 1900 until I found my max core clocks/volts, then fool with the memory if you like, but the memory won't give you as big a performance boost and can make things more unstable and hard to track down in "real world" stressloads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along with 3DMark you may also like this program for "real world" GPU stressing, it's one of my favorites ... Unigen Heaven [HERE]
> That should keep you busy for awhile ... time to ditch OC Genie?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> take care T
> 
> *Very impressive for an H60, especially with those Hot-runnin Phenoms! Care to share your setup?
> Fan(s)/intake-exhaust/push-pull/AMBIENTS etc ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Push/Pull configuration with 2x 120mm Cooler Master R4 Red LED Fans set to Intake on rear exhaust. Top 200MM Megaflow set to exhaust. Bottom Front Megaflow set to intake. All those fans are on a Lamptron FC6 Fan controller. Ambient is about 75*F. Have to run a window AC Unit in the room I have my rig in. Otherwise it gets too hot. Top Megaflow is cranking out 100* heat 24/7. And thats just my rig. Wifes Phenom II X4 is also folding 20/7 and theere is no telling how hot that room would get without the AC.


----------



## SimpleAndClean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Doesn't it just SUCK that Windows 8 is doing away with widgets?


but aida64 widget dont depend on windows widget. so i dont think it matters if W8 has widgets or not.


----------



## Erick Silver

AIDA64 FTW!!!


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I checked my GPU temps, and they were running over 100c. I couldn't believe it.
> *The fault was Afterburner.* While I was screwing around with the drivers, something happened to afterburner and it stopped controlling the fans on my cards. I have it set up for a custom ramp, so they are noisy but cooler than stock. For some reason, it just stopped controlling the fans and I couldn't get it to work until I removed AB and reinstalled it.
> 
> I want two of these:
> http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX39770
> But I can't afford them for a while.


_"The fault was Afterburner"._ ... LoL - Surely you jest?







... Oh how Afterburner has made our lives so much easier/richer! I learned the lesson of reinstalling VGA tweak programs after a VGA (Nvidia) driver tweak/change way back in the days of "Coolbits" and "Rivatuner" from "Unwinder" a Guru3D moderator whom I believe wrote the "Afterburner" program for MSI? ... But your not alone, I still have made the same mistake a few x's because after a driver change Afterburner can look like it made the update without touching it, not always true







... oops, starting to ramble again ...

Now Merg, I know you posted the Accelero Hybrid Graphics Card Cooler link just to fire up the All-in-One vs Custom Loop discussion again? ... Hmmm maybe not?







... but seriously if your running SLI your way better off going with a custom loop figuring in the cost of 2 Accelero's @$140 ($169 Newegg) a pop +ship / moddifying room for 2 more less efficient 120mm rads / and occupying 6 slots total of motherboard real estate







Hmmm ... but then the cost of potentially replacing the VGA blocks every time you upgrade with a custom loop? Yikes $$$! I like the Dwood solution below for $$$/performance









Especially for a single card ... About 6 mos ago an OCN member, Dwood came up with a custom plate to adapt an H50/H70 etc to a video card (NO more Zip ties!) .. LordXeb brought it up again just a few pages ago and would save anyone with some skills big $$$ even if you don't have an old H50/H70 lying around, I thought you mentioned you had an old H70 somewhere? Even if a friend snagged it, a used H50 $20-$25 (eBay) and H70 $50 (eBay) $75 new / the Dwood custom Logo bracket $20 / your choice of custom fans $$$??? ... you'd probably replace the Accelero 120mm fan or add to it for push/pull? ... AND I don't trust the Accelero "Sone" measurement for sound and would bet that little 80mm memory/VRM fan would get quite loud under load ... All-in-ALL you could save as much as 50% depending on the pump/fans you use (or match the Accelero X-3 air cooler) ... or even MUCH MORE if you already had a pump/fans and we all have extra fans lying around, I think









Dwood custom brackets [HERE]





Accelero Hybrid / Artic Cooling [HERE]

Pretty good "In-House/OCN" review [HERE] ... although his noise meter broke (convienient: no post EDIT?)









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> [/B]
> Push/Pull configuration with 2x 120mm Cooler Master R4 Red LED Fans set to Intake on rear exhaust. Top 200MM Megaflow set to exhaust. Bottom Front Megaflow set to intake. All those fans are on a Lamptron FC6 Fan controller. Ambient is about 75*F. Have to run a window AC Unit in the room I have my rig in. Otherwise it gets too hot. Top Megaflow is cranking out 100* heat 24/7. And thats just my rig. Wifes Phenom II X4 is also folding 20/7 and theere is no telling how hot that room would get without the AC.


Nice +R to you for complete info







... "AIDA64 FTW!!!" .... Hmmm +$40, maybe not?


----------



## Erick Silver

I got my AIDA for free.....cannot remember where though......


----------



## nonomos

I am out of curiosity in thoughts of ordering a few new fans for my H80, after reading some of the pages in this thread it seems pretty clear that Scythe Gentle.T is the general choice for performance. I looked around a little on other pages, and somehow got stuck on the Silverstone Air Penetrators, but on the other hand noone has said anything about them? Or have I just missed it?

With my excelllent skills in paint I have illustrated why I think the Air Penetrators "should?" do a good job. But then again, since I cant see anyone mentioning them anywhere I just wanted an opinion on them.










I might be wrong, but by putting my hand in front of my exhaust I can feel the air flow spreading out. In my noobopinion the penetrators should do a much better job cooling the radiator, or am I missing something?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonomos*
> 
> I am out of curiosity in thoughts of ordering a few new fans for my H80, after reading some of the pages in this thread it seems pretty clear that Scythe Gentle.T is the general choice for performance. I looked around a little on other pages, and somehow got stuck on the Silverstone Air Penetrators, but on the other hand noone has said anything about them? Or have I just missed it?
> With my excelllent skills in paint I have illustrated why I think the Air Penetrators "should?" do a good job. But then again, since I cant see anyone mentioning them anywhere I just wanted an opinion on them.
> 
> I might be wrong, but by putting my hand in front of my exhaust I can feel the air flow spreading out. In my noobopinion the penetrators should do a much better job cooling the radiator, or am I missing something?


Although you and I have had many conversations







... I certainly don't want to be alone in commenting, so jump in guys!







....

BUT I totally disagree in your assessment that you will see "any" real-world performance gains by replacing your excellent Noctua NF-P12 fans with Silverstone Air Penatrators (I actually own one) or any other fan for that matter, with possibly one exception, your stock H80 Corair fans.

As I remember your running push/pull, and acording to your very nice "Paint" pic above for airflow, your 2nd fan in the "Pull" position is there to allleviate the very airflow problems you describe above. Now if you want to go back to a single fan in the "Push" position you may see some improvement in your "airflow" characteristics, but I highly doubt it would translate into signifigantly lower temps if any at all









Here's a little tip that I do to all my cases for the rear exhaust/intake 120/140mm fan position and others. It will translate to a 1-3c (sometimes more?) degree improvement depending on the original type of fan grill removed and fans used. Take your Dremmel (or jigsaw) and remove the grill


----------



## nonomos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Although you and I have had many conversations
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....


Hahaha







I dont mind you answers, they always make alot of sense tbh









Well I could not find any tests on anyone running Penetrators on a H80, but then again that just might be reason enough reason to let the idea go.

I am gonna be really honest here, Ive read about this push/pull in so many different forums now that I actually made myself believe that I understand what it means. Maybe I do, but then again I have been known to be wrong







I guess its as simple as one fan pulling the air from inside the case, and the other pushing it out? So if thats correct then yes, thats what I am running LOL!

Actually your idea cracked the case right away, never even thought about modding the exhaust. Brilliant! To avoid ruining the aesthetics of the case, I just might do it from the inside instead, you think that would be a problem?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonomos*
> 
> Hahaha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont mind you answers, they always make alot of sense tbh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I could not find any tests on anyone running Penetrators on a H80, but then again that just might be reason enough reason to let the idea go.
> I am gonna be really honest here, Ive read about this push/pull in so many different forums now that I actually made myself believe that I understand what it means. Maybe I do, but then again I have been known to be wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess its as simple as one fan pulling the air from inside the case, and the other pushing it out? So if thats correct then yes, thats what I am running LOL!
> Actually your idea cracked the case right away, never even thought about modding the exhaust. Brilliant! To avoid ruining the aesthetics of the case, I just might do it from the inside instead, you think that would be a problem?


I want to make a correction, I confused your Noctua NF-*P12* fans (static pressure 1.68 mm H2O) with the Noctua NF-*F12* (static pressure 2.61 mm H2O/which I've used) yours aren't as high performance, so take that into account for performance upgrades. For comparison the Silverstone Air Penetrator AP121 (Static Pressure: 1.71mm-H2O) statistically aren't so great for "Static Pressure", most useful stat in cooling radiators, but I've heard they work OK? The H80 stock fan's Static Pressure is [email protected] speed, can be quite loud









H80 Push/Pull ... can be setup as "Intake" (pulling fresh air from outside the case) OR "Exhaust" (using slightly warmer air from inside the case). If you cutout the rear case fan grill, it will help in "either" configuration!


----------



## PCEnthusiast85

My setup:

was running h100, and 2x h70s for gpu cooling.

Temps: this was with a single 240 rad, xspc reservoir, and 2 h70s (1cpu,1gpu) in one loop.










currently running 2 rads (120,240) with no reservoir:


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleAndClean*
> 
> but aida64 widget dont depend on windows widget. so i dont think it matters if W8 has widgets or not.


That's pretty cool. It's more of a desktop app than a widget then I suppose. I have five widgets running on my desktop now, and I really like them and their functionality. Personally, I don't think I will be purchasing W8 unless there's some reason that forces me to because I just don't want to lose the widgets. Too bad MS already took most of them down from their site.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> _"The fault was Afterburner"._ ... LoL - Surely you jest?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Oh how Afterburner has made our lives so much easier/richer! I learned the lesson of reinstalling VGA tweak programs after a VGA (Nvidia) driver tweak/change way back in the days of "Coolbits" and "Rivatuner" from "Unwinder" a Guru3D moderator whom I believe wrote the "Afterburner" program for MSI? ... But your not alone, I still have made the same mistake a few x's because after a driver change Afterburner can look like it made the update without touching it, not always true
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... oops, starting to ramble again ...
> Now Merg, I know you posted the Accelero Hybrid Graphics Card Cooler link just to fire up the All-in-One vs Custom Loop discussion again? ... Hmmm maybe not?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... but seriously if your running SLI your way better off going with a custom loop figuring in the cost of 2 Accelero's @$140 ($169 Newegg) a pop +ship / moddifying room for 2 more less efficient 120mm rads / and occupying 6 slots total of motherboard real estate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm ... but then the cost of potentially replacing the VGA blocks every time you upgrade with a custom loop? Yikes $$$! I like the Dwood solution below for $$$/performance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Especially for a single card ... About 6 mos ago an OCN member, Dwood came up with a custom plate to adapt an H50/H70 etc to a video card (NO more Zip ties!) .. LordXeb brought it up again just a few pages ago and would save anyone with some skills big $$$ even if you don't have an old H50/H70 lying around, I thought you mentioned you had an old H70 somewhere? Even if a friend snagged it, a used H50 $20-$25 (eBay) and H70 $50 (eBay) $75 new / the Dwood custom Logo bracket $20 / your choice of custom fans $$$??? ... you'd probably replace the Accelero 120mm fan or add to it for push/pull? ... AND I don't trust the Accelero "Sone" measurement for sound and would bet that little 80mm memory/VRM fan would get quite loud under load ... All-in-ALL you could save as much as 50% depending on the pump/fans you use (or match the Accelero X-3 air cooler) ... or even MUCH MORE if you already had a pump/fans and we all have extra fans lying around, I think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dwood custom brackets [HERE]
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Accelero Hybrid / Artic Cooling [HERE]
> Pretty good "In-House/OCN" review [HERE] ... although his noise meter broke (convienient: no post EDIT?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice +R to you for complete info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... "AIDA64 FTW!!!" .... Hmmm +$40, maybe not?


Actually, I saw someone posting regarding the brackets for closed loop coolers and gpus, and I thought I would mention the Accelero cooler. I have room in my system to mount 2 x 120mm rads right now, and I have two cards to cool. I will purchase a couple of these in the future if the company that bought out my employer retains my services permanently. I agree that they are a bit pricy, but I like the looks and they appear to be capable of working well. If Corsair made something like this I would already have picked one or two up. I like how they stand behind their products. I would consider a couple of H60s and a couple of those brackets, but I would also have to pick up heatsinks for the memory and/or regulators. I would also have to get a paypal account, and have them shipped across the border. With the Accelero coolers, I can just drop by a local store and pick them up.

I sold off the H70 I had (for half price) to a guy who apparently couldn't figure out how to use it. He actually tried to return it...lol...I asked him if he saw a "Best Buy" sticker on my jacket or something. He claimed it didn't work. I gave him the URLs for all the tests I did and posted the data for on ocn. Told him that while I was willing to help him, it's not my fault if he can't figure out how to use something so simple. Last I heard, he was trying to get Corsair to exchange it (it was under warranty and I gave him my receipt). He was using a V8. I warned him not to expect much performance improvement over that cooler, but he bought it anyway. He didn't even have temperature software installed, and was basing his claim about it not working on how warm his finger was when he touched the block.

I have always found water cooling interesting, but I'm in no need of a system requiring maintenance and expensive little bits and pieces, not to mention (as you pointed out) requiring special blocks for different gpus. Using a closed loop solution, I could sell my cards and purchase different cards and still keep my coolers. It's really too bad Corsair doesn't make something like this. I like the low permeability hoses and five year warranties they have.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonomos*
> 
> I am out of curiosity in thoughts of ordering a few new fans for my H80, after reading some of the pages in this thread it seems pretty clear that Scythe Gentle.T is the general choice for performance. I looked around a little on other pages, and somehow got stuck on the Silverstone Air Penetrators, but on the other hand noone has said anything about them? Or have I just missed it?
> With my excelllent skills in paint I have illustrated why I think the Air Penetrators "should?" do a good job. But then again, since I cant see anyone mentioning them anywhere I just wanted an opinion on them.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might be wrong, but by putting my hand in front of my exhaust I can feel the air flow spreading out. In my noobopinion the penetrators should do a much better job cooling the radiator, or am I missing something?


I believe the literature available for those fans specifically states they are not for radiators. They are meant to allow air to penetrate further into a case, but are not made to overcome the resistance a radiator would cause. However, I suppose the only way to find out for sure would be to give them a try and see how they perform.

Push pull is just two fans sandwiching a radiator, moving air in the same direction. Intake into the case or exhaust out of the case doesn't matter, as long as they both go in the same direction.

@PCEnthusiast85

Nice mods.


----------



## nezff

I just noticed a shiny substance on one of my fans while I was playing bf3. I popped the case door off and low and behold, there was a substance that resembled liquid/coolant on my fan. Wiped it with my finger and it had a greenish tint to it. I wiped it again with a white kleenex to be sure and sure enough it was green. My first thought was coolant, then I started thinking that it could be lubricant from the fans.

Called Corsair and they said it would be 3-5 days. Unacceptable. I need this rig up and going NOW. Called amazon, and they are getting me one shipped asap even though it was over the 30 day period. They said to throw the leaking one away. Here are some pics.

I havent heard of these units leaking, so I have no idea what could be the problem.

























Kleenex with green liquid


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I just noticed a shiny substance on one of my fans while I was playing bf3. I popped the case door off and low and behold, there was a substance that resembled liquid/coolant on my fan. Wiped it with my finger and it had a greenish tint to it. I wiped it again with a white kleenex to be sure and sure enough it was green. My first thought was coolant, then I started thinking that it could be lubricant from the fans.
> Called Corsair and they said it would be 3-5 days. Unacceptable. I need this rig up and going NOW. Called amazon, and they are getting me one shipped asap even though it was over the 30 day period. They said to throw the leaking one away. Here are some pics.
> I havent heard of these units leaking, so I have no idea what could be the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kleenex with green liquid


Wow, That really is strange..


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Wow, That really is strange..


Got me worried that these units CAN leak and possibly damage my video cards.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Wow, That really is strange..
> 
> 
> 
> Got me worried that these units CAN leak and possibly damage my video cards.
Click to expand...

Take a Q-Tip and swab it off and smell it. If it has that Ethylene Glycol smell then it's coolant.









If not then it's the lubricant from your fans.









If the H100 is leaking contact Corsair for RMA. No worries if it is coolant either because Corsair covers damage.









~Ceadder


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> I just noticed a shiny substance on one of my fans while I was playing bf3. I popped the case door off and low and behold, there was a substance that resembled liquid/coolant on my fan. Wiped it with my finger and it had a greenish tint to it. I wiped it again with a white kleenex to be sure and sure enough it was green. My first thought was coolant, then I started thinking that it could be lubricant from the fans.
> Called Corsair and they said it would be 3-5 days. Unacceptable. I need this rig up and going NOW. Called amazon, and they are getting me one shipped asap even though it was over the 30 day period. They said to throw the leaking one away.


Well no manufactured unit is completely immune to failure/leaking! Almost 2 months ago "Qu1ckset" had a similar problem [HERE] and in his pic below it does look different than yours, and it was determined to be excess oil from the fans. But I must admit I see a "slight" green hue in your photo's. And to be honest someone else will have to confirm wether the "Actual Coolant" in an H100 is green as I haven't seen an H80/H100 leak in person









ONE THING FOR SURE ... do not throw your old unit away ... RMA it then resell if applicable?


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Well no manufactured unit is completely immune to failure/leaking! Almost 2 months ago "Qu1ckset" had a similar problem [HERE] and in his pic below it does look different than yours, and it was determined to be excess oil from the fans. But I must admit I see a "slight" green hue in your photo's. And to be honest someone else will have to confirm wether the "Actual Coolant" in an H100 is green as I haven't seen an H80/H100 leak in person
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ONE THING FOR SURE ... do not throw your old unit away ... RMA it then resell if applicable?


thanks for the link.

Corsair confirmed that the coolant is green in hue. It is a mixture which has a greenish tint. I wiped it with the kleenex to be sure. It shows up pretty well. The fans do spin fairly fast so I was thinking about possible lubricant coming out. Im RMAing the faulty unit to corsair and getting a new one. Ill have a extra one for parts or to sell.


----------



## nezff

Just read a couple posts about members H100s leaking. Kinda got me worried. Not sure if they were compensated on the damaged components.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> I just noticed a shiny substance on one of my fans while I was playing bf3. I popped the case door off and low and behold, there was a substance that resembled liquid/coolant on my fan. Wiped it with my finger and it had a greenish tint to it. I wiped it again with a white kleenex to be sure and sure enough it was green. My first thought was coolant, then I started thinking that it could be lubricant from the fans.
> Called Corsair and they said it would be 3-5 days. Unacceptable. I need this rig up and going NOW. Called amazon, and they are getting me one shipped asap even though it was over the 30 day period. They said to throw the leaking one away. Here are some pics.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I havent heard of these units leaking, so I have no idea what could be the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kleenex with green liquid


It's common for the fans to lose some lubricant when they are new. It's in the exact same spot as others have gotten, including myself. About 10 or 20 pages ago we were discussing this exact thing. My fans did the same, and so have others. It's easy to tell if it coolent by just taking the fan off and see it it's wet on the top side and dripped down to the bottom. What I expect is that it's just fan lube that came out due to centrifugal force. If the rad is not wet, then it's not leaking.

3-5 days is unacceptable? Did you think they were going to do it same day? I think 3-5 days is quite excellent, and would have expected 7-10 days. Personally, I would just use a stock cooler until a replacement came in.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> Just read a couple posts about members H100s leaking. Kinda got me worried. Not sure if they were compensated on the damaged components.


Any liquid cooling setup can leak, literally. It's very rare on Corsair products, and any time I have heard of a unit leaking _that was caused by a manufacturing defect_, Corsair has replaced the damaged components (if any). I have seen one or two people who got leaks because of kinking the tubing or stretching it too tight. That's not a manufacturing defect. I have seen a few others where there was actually a bad seam on the block or rad, but again it's very rare, and they weren't all on the h100, so it's few and far between.

Stuff happens.


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> It's common for the fans to lose some lubricant when they are new. It's in the exact same spot as others have gotten, including myself. About 10 or 20 pages ago we were discussing this exact thing. My fans did the same, and so have others. It's easy to tell if it coolent by just taking the fan off and see it it's wet on the top side and dripped down to the bottom. What I expect is that it's just fan lube that came out due to centrifugal force. If the rad is not wet, then it's not leaking.
> 3-5 days is unacceptable? Did you think they were going to do it same day? I think 3-5 days is quite excellent, and would have expected 7-10 days. Personally, I would just use a stock cooler until a replacement came in.
> Any liquid cooling setup can leak, literally. It's very rare on Corsair products, and any time I have heard of a unit leaking _that was caused by a manufacturing defect_, Corsair has replaced the damaged components (if any). I have seen one or two people who got leaks because of kinking the tubing or stretching it too tight. That's not a manufacturing defect. I have seen a few others where there was actually a bad seam on the block or rad, but again it's very rare, and they weren't all on the h100, so it's few and far between.
> Stuff happens.


Well, maybe 3-5 days is acceptable, but for me I need it asap. I dont have a stock cooler.

I understand stuff can possibly leak, I just havent heard of it before. I just searched for leaks on h100s and saw a couple threads. One guy went two months to get satisfied and his money back on the components.









When i built this rig, it was between the phanteks or the corsair. I went with the corsair becasue of aesthetics mainly.

I plan on taking this one off and inspecting it when the new one arrives. If it is just lube, I will probably just keep this one and use the other one for parts.


----------



## nezff

Quick question, If I take the H100 off the cpu, and out of the rig, I know I will have to reapply paste. Should I just wait until the new one arrives and use that unit or use either PK3 or artic silver on my existing unit if it is indeed not leaking? I read that the H100 has some very good stock paste on it is the reason for my concern.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> Quick question, If I take the H100 off the cpu, and out of the rig, I know I will have to reapply paste. Should I just wait until the new one arrives and use that unit or use either PK3 or artic silver on my existing unit if it is indeed not leaking? I read that the H100 has some very good stock paste on it is the reason for my concern.


Should always replace the TIM no matter what. The H100 does have good TIM preapplied to it but if you're only asking if you should just replace it if you find no leak, make sure to replace the TIM in that event.









~Ceadder


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Should always replace the TIM no matter what. The H100 does have good TIM preapplied to it but if you're only asking if you should just replace it if you find no leak, make sure to replace the TIM in that event.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


you might have misunderstood me. What Im asking if I find no leak, then should I use the new cooler, or use the one I have been. Im definately applying more tim if i reuse the original cooler.







maybe some pk3 that i have.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Should always replace the TIM no matter what. The H100 does have good TIM preapplied to it but if you're only asking if you should just replace it if you find no leak, make sure to replace the TIM in that event.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you might have misunderstood me. What Im asking if I find no leak, then should I use the new cooler, or use the one I have been. Im definately applying more tim if i reuse the original cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> maybe some pk3 that i have.
Click to expand...

I'd keep the one that you have and shelve the spare.

~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

I always have at least one stock cooler kicking around, just in case. It would have been not a bad idea for you to just purchase a stock cooler while waiting for your H100. That would cost a lot less and you could hang onto it in case of emergency. We have three computers in our home now all running Corsair water coolers, and we haven't really had any problems with them. The H50 is a little noisy in the pump, but you can't hear it with the case closed so it's no big deal, and I did get some lube from the H100 fans, but I just wiped it off (I'm not even using those fan now...lol)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> Quick question, If I take the H100 off the cpu, and out of the rig, I know I will have to reapply paste. Should I just wait until the new one arrives and use that unit or use either PK3 or artic silver on my existing unit if it is indeed not leaking? I read that the H100 has some very good stock paste on it is the reason for my concern.


I had to take mine off too while I was modding my case. I used AS5 when I reinstalled it. AS5 is just as good, but does require a cure time before it gets the best temps it can offer.

I'd be pretty tempted to install the new one you get, just to make sure it's working properly. I know it would be nice to keep it in brand new condition, but if you don't test it you could end up sorry later.


----------



## nezff

I will probably test it when it gets here. If this one isnt leaking, I will probably keep this one on here. I just talked to a buddy that got his around the same time I did, and he said he had some fan lube. Not sure what mine is. Im still running it right now without problems.


----------



## [email protected]

I am still unsure if i wanna take off my rad by the top fan rear of my Antec 1200 cuz i can tell the fan isn't spinning right and it looks woobly but could be just dirty that's all.

Just afraid to risk movement of my heatsink. Been having this cooler for 3 years now and i don't have any thermal paste and yes it's a H70 lol.

I really need a new cooler just don't have time to get one cuz i'm saving money for a new build but this build is actually a great PC than i thought cuz i have no problems with it.


----------



## nezff

nvm!


----------



## Warfare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> holy crap:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUbpb23yTK8&feature=plcp
> 40 sp corsair fans on a h100. Temps are crazy!


Old and ultimate troll status on the Tiny Tim Logan.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> holy crap:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUbpb23yTK8&feature=plcp
> 40 sp corsair fans on a h100. Temps are crazy!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> That video was hilarious ... and from the begining that was Tom's original intent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... he finally admits it around 12:30min in saying this is the 1st time I actually had to laugh/smile "at myself". Then he goes on to saying he wouldn't be surprised if a majority of the viewers actually took the whole test/setup seriously
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> again laughing at the whole situation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Tom says it's a Troll vid. You have to stay thru the credits though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

LoL ... Here we go again







You're not alone though







... Read more [HERE] post #21098


----------



## nezff

so this is BS?

I just thought it was rather funny.


----------



## tw33k

All fans are intake except the H100 which exhausts out the top. There are 2x Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000 fans pulling air from the rad and out the top. I'm waiting for more Liquid Ultra to arrive which should drop my temps quite a bit.



3770K @ 4.6GHz 1.35v


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> so this is BS?
> 
> I just thought it was rather funny.


Yes it was just BS. Tom even made sure to comment at the very end of the vid after the first set of credits rolled, and cleared it up.









I've been a TTL fan for a long time and he'd been pumping that Vid up on FB for a month. Someone suggested that he stack the fans on the AIO and that's how he came by the idea. lol

That many fans in one space like that is loud a frack, and you could tell that they were so that should have been a clue when he stated that they were really quiet. lol

I know what loud fans sound like cause I had Yate Loon D12SH-12 Red LEDs' on my H50. Only 2 of them an some days I couldn't hear myself think. I can imagine just how loud that many Corsair fans are when they're stacked on top of one another.









So yeah Tom trolled but he admitted so before the Vid came to a complete stop. Can't help it if some riders chose to get off the ride before it was over.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> All fans are intake except the H100 which exhausts out the top. There are 2x Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000 fans pulling air from the rad and out the top. I'm waiting for more Liquid Ultra to arrive which should drop my temps quite a bit.
> 
> 3770K @ 4.6GHz 1.35v


I can't believe no one else hasn't jumped in here yet? I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but even for a moderate overclock (3770K @ 4.6GHz 1.35v) of the disappointingly hot runnin Ivy Bridge chips, in a manageable environment (appx 76F) and what looks like a more than above average setup (actually very nice case ventalation) ... *your temps are not good* ... even borderline scary for 1.34 volts and below average watt loading @75w







Have you messed/tried to reseat/TIM your CPU's IHS?

Cudos to you for providing detailed info/screenies! But now I'm even more skeptical of the Aida64 program and monitoring results. For everyone's piece of mind could you rerun your stress tests with at least P95 (blend) / CPUID Hardware Monitor (and Real Temp) / CPU-Z for at least 20-30min at or near the same ambients of 24c/75F so we can better determine what the problem may be? AND If you have time do a run with IBT? But be careful here because if this is a hardware problem you could see your load temps go 100+c with IBT and you should shut her down immediately.

Additionally are you using the stock H100 TIM? If so, the Liquid Ultra TIM is not going to lower your max/load temps enough (maybe 2c / 3c at most) for a comfortable 24/7 overclock without CPU degradtion at those max temps ... IMO! AND Maybe try reseating your H100 block before you do anything else ....


----------



## PCSarge

i reember butchering my H50 for the rad and tossing it...lol


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I can't believe no one else hasn't jumped in here yet? I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but even for a moderate overclock (3770K @ 4.6GHz 1.35v) of the disappointingly hot runnin Ivy Bridge chips, in a manageable environment (appx 76F) and what looks like a more than above average setup (actually very nice case ventalation) ... *your temps are not good* ... even borderline scary for 1.34 volts and below average watt loading @75w
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you messed/tried to reseat/TIM your CPU's IHS?
> Cudos to you for providing detailed info/screenies! But now I'm even more skeptical of the Aida64 program and monitoring results. For everyone's piece of mind could you rerun your stress tests with at least P95 (blend) / CPUID Hardware Monitor (and Real Temp) / CPU-Z for at least 20-30min at or near the same ambients of 24c/75F so we can better determine what the problem may be? AND If you have time do a run with IBT? But be careful here because if this is a hardware problem you could see your load temps go 100+c with IBT and you should shut her down immediately.
> Additionally are you using the stock H100 TIM? If so, the Liquid Ultra TIM is not going to lower your max/load temps enough (maybe 2c / 3c at most) for a comfortable 24/7 overclock without CPU degradtion at those max temps ... IMO! AND Maybe try reseating your H100 block before you do anything else ....


You can ignore those temps. Too much paste was the problem


----------



## mahiv87

Here is my H80 keeping my 3570k cool.


----------



## Iamthebull

Any word on an H100 with a thicker Radiator? I know it's been asked but theres so much to sort through.

Thanks!


----------



## mypg036

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mahiv87*
> 
> Here is my H80 keeping my 3570k cool.


Nice rig


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mahiv87*
> 
> Here is my H80 keeping my 3570k cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice. Wow, that must be the most awesome case ever made.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iamthebull*
> 
> Any word on an H100 with a thicker Radiator? I know it's been asked but theres so much to sort through.
> Thanks!


Haven't heard anything myself, but then Corsair is pretty sneaky....


----------



## Droogie

Just hooked my h100 up and couldn't get the miles to plug in. The wires kept coming out. I kinda forces them in, and now it won't power up. There doesn't appear to be any damage or anything. Wondering if I'm missing something

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## OverClocker55

Is this corsair pump for the H100/H80 capable of adding a second 120mm rad?


----------



## mahiv87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypg036*
> 
> Nice rig


Thanks. I kinda wish i bought a better mobo though, i feel like this one is keeping me from being able to overclock higher.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Nice. Wow, that must be the most awesome case ever made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haven't heard anything myself, but then Corsair is pretty sneaky....


It is! I like it alot. There's so much room for activities.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> Just hooked my h100 up and couldn't get the miles to plug in. The wires kept coming out. I kinda forces them in, and now it won't power up. There doesn't appear to be any damage or anything. Wondering if I'm missing something
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


What's a "miles"?

Do you mean the fans? Without actually knowing what you did, it's hard to say. As a general rule though, you never force stuff you're having a hard time fitting. What won't power up? The computer? The fans?


----------



## OverClocker55

I want corsair so release a new rad. We need some fresh stuff


----------



## Solders18

Would it be possible for corsair to venture into the custom loop area? Say, add on rads and reservoirs or multiple block systems? I realize this is basically just a custom loop system, but it would still be cool


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> Would it be possible for corsair to venture into the custom loop area? Say, add on rads and reservoirs or multiple block systems? I realize this is basically just a custom loop system, but it would still be cool


It would be cool if they sold rads,tubes and pumps and it was like a universal pump and you could add any size rad and tubes.


----------



## Mergatroid

I would like them to release a video card cooler, 120mm rad, with a bracket setup or something similar and heatsinks for the regulators and memory. If they try and keep the cost reasonable, I would be very interested. By reasonable, I mean something around the price of their 120mm cpu closed loop coolers.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I would like them to release a video card cooler, 120mm rad, with a bracket setup or something similar and heatsinks for the regulators and memory. If they try and keep the cost reasonable, I would be very interested. By reasonable, I mean something around the price of their 120mm cpu closed loop coolers.


Arctic cooling already has it but it is waaaaaay too expensive.


----------



## nezff

I noticed that some guys are running different fans on the h100. I'm pretty sure they aren't as good as the stock fans. The stockers have a static pressure of somewhere around 7.

I was wondering if maybe changing the stock ones out to something with more aesthetic appeal. I've looked at the corsair sp fans and I'm quite found of the enermax cluster fans with white LEDs. I saw another member here using them and he claimed that his temps were good.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> Would it be possible for corsair to venture into the custom loop area? Say, add on rads and reservoirs or multiple block systems? I realize this is basically just a custom loop system, but it would still be cool


Well if they insist on marketing Aluminum blocks, I'd rather they didn't. They have a Dominator top that is Aluminum. Aluminum with other metals in the loop create Galvanic Corrosion. You don't want it anywhere near your loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well if they insist on marketing Aluminum blocks, I'd rather they didn't. They have a Dominator top that is Aluminum. Aluminum with other metals in the loop create Galvanic Corrosion. You don't want it anywhere near your loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


This is true, might as well throw acid in your loop and power a flashlight


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> Arctic cooling already has it but it is waaaaaay too expensive.


Yeah, I linked to that a few pages back.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well if they insist on marketing Aluminum blocks, I'd rather they didn't. They have a Dominator top that is Aluminum. Aluminum with other metals in the loop create Galvanic Corrosion. You don't want it anywhere near your loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I thought only the H40 used an aluminum block?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> Arctic cooling already has it but it is waaaaaay too expensive.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I linked to that a few pages back.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well if they insist on marketing Aluminum blocks, I'd rather they didn't. They have a Dominator top that is Aluminum. Aluminum with other metals in the loop create Galvanic Corrosion. You don't want it anywhere near your loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I thought only the H40 used an aluminum block?
Click to expand...

No no. The Dominator block has an Aluminum cooling chamber. The Question was is Corsair going to jump in with both feet into custom loop products or something to that effect. Anyway as I pointed out, I wouldn't want them to if they insist on marketing aluminum components like the Dominator block. I really don't have much of an idea what their Rads are made of for their AIO systems but it wouldn't shock me too much to find that all their Rads are mostly aluminum.









~Ceadder


----------



## mtbiker033

good day gents!

I had to set-up my i5-2500k system due to an unfortunate situation with the motherboard I was using (asus x58 R3F) and had a question regarding thermal paste application with the H100 and the 2500k. I used the small grain of rice method in the center and though my idle temps seem fine my load temps using p95 small FFT seemed a little too high (high 70's). Is there a best practice for applying thermal paste (MX4) to a 2500k with the H100?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtbiker033*
> 
> good day gents!
> 
> I had to set-up my i5-2500k system due to an unfortunate situation with the motherboard I was using (asus x58 R3F) and had a question regarding thermal paste application with the H100 and the 2500k. I used the small grain of rice method in the center and though my idle temps seem fine my load temps using p95 small FFT seemed a little too high (high 70's). Is there a best practice for applying thermal paste (MX4) to a 2500k with the H100?


Pea method is probably better for that chip with MX4. MX4 is similar in consistency to Shin Etsu TIMs' I generally use a little more than a grain of rice. More like a wasabi pea than grain of rice. Some people prefer to spread their TIM, I like drop and squish.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

I used to spread too (so to speak) which worked well. Then Ceadderman introduced us to an article on different methods of using TIM, and I also changed to the "pea" or "BB" method. It seems to have worked well for me too (I am also using a 2500K and an H100).

Just remove your block and check the spread. If you don't think it looks very good, then clean it up and put a slightly larger sized blob on. If you're not sure, you can always use the spread method. Check his sig for the link to the article.

Of course, this also depends on your clock. I am clocking my CPU from 3.3GHz to 4.3GHz, and my system can hit the low 70s (up to 73c) when I torture it with Intel Burn Test for an hour.


----------



## mtbiker033

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I used to spread too (so to speak) which worked well. Then Ceadderman introduced us to an article on different methods of using TIM, and I also changed to the "pea" or "BB" method. It seems to have worked well for me too (I am also using a 2500K and an H100).
> Just remove your block and check the spread. If you don't think it looks very good, then clean it up and put a slightly larger sized blob on. If you're not sure, you can always use the spread method. Check his sig for the link to the article.
> Of course, this also depends on your clock. I am clocking my CPU from 3.3GHz to 4.3GHz, and my system can hit the low 70s (up to 73c) when I torture it with Intel Burn Test for an hour.


yeah I think I will reseat it tomorrow for sure, thanks!

I used the pea sized blob method too.


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> I noticed that some guys are running different fans on the h100. I'm pretty sure they aren't as good as the stock fans. The stockers have a static pressure of somewhere around 7.
> I was wondering if maybe changing the stock ones out to something with more aesthetic appeal. I've looked at the corsair sp fans and I'm quite found of the enermax cluster fans with white LEDs. I saw another member here using them and he claimed that his temps were good.


Anyone?

I found this on the corsair forums,thought it looked good. He painted the fans to match.


----------



## mtbiker033

Did a re-seat on the H100, I put just a small pea and made sure I set the block down square and even and tightened the bolts very carefully and as even as I could and still have the same higher than expected temps. High 60's - low 70's on p95 blend, LinX went to low 90's and I stopped that pretty quickly.

I guess I need to try again! This same cooler worked very well on my i7-970 and should be working better than the H70 I had on this same cpu before. The only real difference is I was using the stock paste before and this time I am applying MX-4 myself which must be where the problem lies (pebkac).


----------



## Badwrench

Count me in. H100 keeping my 960T at 37C while folding. 3724mhz/1.32Vcore.

Ditched the stock fans as they were quite loud. Running a pair of medium speed yates. Same temps as the Corsair fans, but significantly quieter.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtbiker033*
> 
> Did a re-seat on the H100, I put just a small pea and made sure I set the block down square and even and tightened the bolts very carefully and as even as I could and still have the same higher than expected temps. High 60's - low 70's on p95 blend, LinX went to low 90's and I stopped that pretty quickly.
> 
> I guess I need to try again! This same cooler worked very well on my i7-970 and should be working better than the H70 I had on this same cpu before. The only real difference is I was using the stock paste before and this time I am applying MX-4 myself which must be where the problem lies (pebkac).


Did you wiggle the block back and forth or twist it to squish the TIM? It is a big difficult to do but with my H50 I loosened the bracket enough to pull it out and over the top of the housing so I could twist the block back and forth. If you can scrape the TIM off with a Razor you can put it back in the tube and not waste much of it if you don't have enough on the CPU. You may have to add a little more than a small pea. If you have a AAA battery handy you can look at the circumference of the battery and use that as a guide. You want the amount of TIM to roughly be the size of the exposed Negative metal plate of the battery maybe a little bigger but no bigger than the full circumference of the battery.

My apologies for the battery reference but it's what I had on the table and it's all I could think of to get you pointed in the right direction.









~Ceadder


----------



## antonis21

My H80+arctic cooling mx-4 fo cpu=


----------



## msgclb

This is my current New Ivy H100.


----------



## mtbiker033

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Did you wiggle the block back and forth or twist it to squish the TIM? It is a big difficult to do but with my H50 I loosened the bracket enough to pull it out and over the top of the housing so I could twist the block back and forth. If you can scrape the TIM off with a Razor you can put it back in the tube and not waste much of it if you don't have enough on the CPU. You may have to add a little more than a small pea. If you have a AAA battery handy you can look at the circumference of the battery and use that as a guide. You want the amount of TIM to roughly be the size of the exposed Negative metal plate of the battery maybe a little bigger but no bigger than the full circumference of the battery.
> My apologies for the battery reference but it's what I had on the table and it's all I could think of to get you pointed in the right direction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


So I had another run at it. I figured if it worked better with the factory TIM I would try and spread mine on there as it came new. Idle temps stayed pretty much the same, but load temps were better. They were all in the 70's now the highest was 69.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtbiker033*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Did you wiggle the block back and forth or twist it to squish the TIM? It is a big difficult to do but with my H50 I loosened the bracket enough to pull it out and over the top of the housing so I could twist the block back and forth. If you can scrape the TIM off with a Razor you can put it back in the tube and not waste much of it if you don't have enough on the CPU. You may have to add a little more than a small pea. If you have a AAA battery handy you can look at the circumference of the battery and use that as a guide. You want the amount of TIM to roughly be the size of the exposed Negative metal plate of the battery maybe a little bigger but no bigger than the full circumference of the battery.
> My apologies for the battery reference but it's what I had on the table and it's all I could think of to get you pointed in the right direction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I had another run at it. I figured if it worked better with the factory TIM I would try and spread mine on there as it came new. Idle temps stayed pretty much the same, but load temps were better. They were all in the 70's now the highest was 69.
Click to expand...

Awesome. Glad you figured out a way to get it done.









~Ceadder


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msgclb*
> 
> This is my current New Ivy H100.


Nice!


----------



## FeelKun

h100i

h80i


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Resme*
> 
> h100i
> h80i


why are they deactivated?


----------



## octiny

Here's a picture of the new version of the H60 I installed in my recent build, looks much nicer than the older version IMO. Although I did paint the magnetic bracket and thumb screws that came with it because I didn't like the mirrored titanium-ish finish they used.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *octiny*
> 
> Here's a picture of the new version of the H60 I installed in my recent build, looks much nicer than the older version IMO. Although I did paint the magnetic bracket and thumb screws that came with it because I didn't like the mirrored titanium-ish finish they used.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sexy


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> why are they deactivated?


Because they arent fully released, Newegg just put it there in preparation of the release.


----------



## [email protected]

Well check this out! IT'S FOR SALE NOW!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181030

I want the H80i but it's not out yet i guess.

Not sure if i should get a H60 cuz i like the H80 much better. I currently am using H70. Yea.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Well check this out! IT'S FOR SALE NOW!
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181030
> I want the H80i but it's not out yet i guess.
> Not sure if i should get a H60 cuz i like the H80 much better. I currently am using H70. Yea.


That h60 has been on sale for a bit.


----------



## Step83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> I noticed that some guys are running different fans on the h100. I'm pretty sure they aren't as good as the stock fans. The stockers have a static pressure of somewhere around 7.
> I was wondering if maybe changing the stock ones out to something with more aesthetic appeal. I've looked at the corsair sp fans and I'm quite found of the enermax cluster fans with white LEDs. I saw another member here using them and he claimed that his temps were good.


Mainly we swap the fans to save our ears. Im running the H80 wit ha pair of Scythe GT1850s at 5V currently under heavy load i may need to pop it up to 6.5-7V.

Give you an idea of temps









Ambient is 17.9c currently


----------



## powershortage

Can I ask you guys a question? I got the H70 last summer, it's my first watercooling system, even though I've been into PC's for years (my first comp was an Apple ][+ back in '81) . I like it a lot all except for the flimsy backplate and retention bracket. Maybe I missed something, but I was always under the impression that you want to mount your heat sink as tightly as possible to the CPU. I ended up stripping nuts on the stock backplate, and I know I'm not the first one to complain about it. I ended up putting a regular metal backplate on the back and I took a heavy duty plastic backplate, cut it in half and shaped it to fit over aluminum retention bracket (the H70 waterblock is round, not square) and bolted it down. I guess my question is, how tight should the block fit over the CPU on these kits? Is it the same as a regular heat sink?

What happens with the stock setup is that you tighten it so much that the mold the nut on the back goes in strips because it's so flimsy. IIRC I didn't even have it on but for a day or two before I replaced it.


----------



## nezff

the back plate has some play in it at first, but when the cooler/pump are tightened, there is no more play or slack.


----------



## trUk1L

Corsair H100 on CPU
Corsair H60 on GPU


----------



## TomcatV

Update H100i / H80i ... to quote *"Corsair George"* [HERE]

_Okay, here's a list of differences between the older versions and the new "i" variants.

1. Corsair Link compatibility in the box, so you can just plug in the included USB cable into a mbd header and download the software. This allows you to create your own fan and noise profiles, and to adjust the RGB LED logo on the top of the unit. (you can even have it changed color based on temp)
2. Moved from 4-pin "molex" power to a SATA power connector.
3. Upgraded cold plate
4. Upgraded impeller/bearing/motor design for lower noise pump unit.
5. Upgraded split-flow manifold design.
6. Upgraded to wider tubing with more flexibility, but retaining the same low evaporation rates.
7. Upgraded the fans to SP120L design. Same impeller as the SP120 retail, with a different housing. A high-torque motor keeps the fan spinning near its ideal RPM even with backpressure. The noise level of the units is significantly better than last year, as a result.
8. New Industrial Design.
9. Changed mounting mechanism for AMD/Intel bracket to be magnetic, so you can swap out the tops without any screws.
10. Price of H80i dropped from $109 to $99.

For anybody wondering about the "i" designator, we'll be using it on parts that offer full Corsair Link compatibility out of the box without having to add any additional purchase._

Looks like some nice improvements with NO increase in cost! We'll have to wait for some head to head reviews, but I don't see any real improvement in performance EXCEPT in possibly the same performance with LESS noise! Always a good thing







... and Corsair Link would be fun to play around with







... that use to be a very pricey accessory







... AND best of all, if my H100 fails it will be replaced with a new and improved version









*EDIT:* To quote George again ... H100i vs H100 (performance) ...
*At 200W of heat, it's about 3 degrees C and 2-3 dBA quieter.*

George, if your out there can you post the specs on the fans? OR are they the same as the Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition High Static Pressure 120mm Fan @ Speed: 2350 RPM / Airflow: 62.74 CFM / Static Pressure: 3.1 mm/H20 / Sound Level: 35 dBA

*EDIT:* looks to be a slightly different variation (+v) of the SP120 above ... Corsair specs [HERE]
•Fan speed: 2700 RPM
•Fan airflow: 77 CFM
•Fan dBA: 37.68 dBA
•Fan static pressure: 4mm/H20


----------



## OverClocker55

OMG getting the h100i or h80i


----------



## Dimaggio1103

just ordered the H80 hope its a good improvement over my 212 evo


----------



## CSCoder4ever

The New Corsair Coolers Look Nice, Though my Corsair h60 will suffice for another several months.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSCoder4ever*
> 
> The New Corsair Coolers Look Nice, Though my Corsair h60 will suffice for another several months.


what temp does your i5 on the h60 run? idle and load? My h60 preforms bad I think.


----------



## CSCoder4ever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> what temp does your i5 on the h60 run? idle and load? My h60 preforms bad I think.


Idling @ 4.1 I saw temps at 33C average and load was up to 58C

Idling @ stock was around 29c average and load was up to 46C


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSCoder4ever*
> 
> Idling @ 4.1 I saw temps at 33C average and load was up to 58C
> Idling @ stock was around 29c average and load was up to 46C


Thanks +rep Mine is stock 38c idle and 54c load. hmm and thats push/pull


----------



## Solders18

Not really worth the upgrade from an H100.


----------



## nezff

I have a BRAND new in the box never opened H100. anyone?


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> I have a BRAND new in the box never opened H100. anyone?


How much!???


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Update H100i / H80i ... to quote *"Corsair George"* [HERE]
> _Okay, here's a list of differences between the older versions and the new "i" variants.
> 1. Corsair Link compatibility in the box, so you can just plug in the included USB cable into a mbd header and download the software. This allows you to create your own fan and noise profiles, and to adjust the RGB LED logo on the top of the unit. (you can even have it changed color based on temp)
> 2. Moved from 4-pin "molex" power to a SATA power connector.
> 3. Upgraded cold plate
> 4. Upgraded impeller/bearing/motor design for lower noise pump unit.
> 5. Upgraded split-flow manifold design.
> 6. Upgraded to wider tubing with more flexibility, but retaining the same low evaporation rates.
> 7. Upgraded the fans to SP120L design. Same impeller as the SP120 retail, with a different housing. A high-torque motor keeps the fan spinning near its ideal RPM even with backpressure. The noise level of the units is significantly better than last year, as a result.
> 8. New Industrial Design.
> 9. Changed mounting mechanism for AMD/Intel bracket to be magnetic, so you can swap out the tops without any screws.
> 10. Price of H80i dropped from $109 to $99.
> For anybody wondering about the "i" designator, we'll be using it on parts that offer full Corsair Link compatibility out of the box without having to add any additional purchase._
> Looks like some nice improvements with NO increase in cost! We'll have to wait for some head to head reviews, but I don't see any real improvement in performance EXCEPT in possibly the same performance with LESS noise! Always a good thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and Corsair Link would be fun to play around with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... that use to be a very pricey accessory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... AND best of all, if my H100 fails it will be replaced with a new and improved version
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT:* To quote George again ... H100i vs H100 (performance) ...
> *At 200W of heat, it's about 3 degrees C and 2-3 dBA quieter.*
> George, if your out there can you post the specs on the fans? OR are they the same as the Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition High Static Pressure 120mm Fan @ Speed: 2350 RPM / Airflow: 62.74 CFM / Static Pressure: 3.1 mm/H20 / Sound Level: 35 dBA
> *EDIT:* looks to be a slightly different variation (+v) of the SP120 above ... Corsair specs [HERE]
> •Fan speed: 2700 RPM
> •Fan airflow: 77 CFM
> •Fan dBA: 37.68 dBA
> •Fan static pressure: 4mm/H20


Fans have a lower static pressure, just a tad lower decibal level. Im not a fan of those grey blades either.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> How much!???


pm


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> I have a BRAND new in the box never opened H100. anyone?


If only there was a way to run dual H100's


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> If only there was a way to run dual H100's


OMG yes that would be pretty sick. I wish corsair would sell real custom kits,pick the pump,color,style,rad,size,color and then they would custom make it for you!


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Resme*
> 
> h100i
> h80i


These look fairly interesting. Corsair has seems to ditch the low permeability tubing for rubber, but they say it's still low permeability. Looks like it may be a little more flexible. They have built-in the link commander. It's quite the decent design that you only have to plug it into an internal USB header and download the software. That's pretty cool. I just wish there was a way to combine this control method with aftermarket fan controllers. They have also included the LED control ability, but I assume you need to purchase Corsair LED kits. It doesn't really say on Corsair's site but I doubt it would work with just any LEDs (note, according to Corsair George's comments posted by TomcatV, it looks as though the LED control is only for the LEDs on the block). It also looks like they have changed the block a little, and changed the power input from molex to SATA power. Of course, they have also changed the fans. It's funny they would go with less static pressure.

Magnetic mounting? Very interesting.

I notice once again they are not using PWM. This makes me a sad panda. The hoses have a larger diameter, so it may move more coolant which is a good thing. I'll be interested to hear how they perform.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *powershortage*
> 
> Can I ask you guys a question? I got the H70 last summer, it's my first watercooling system, even though I've been into PC's for years (my first comp was an Apple ][+ back in '81) . I like it a lot all except for the flimsy backplate and retention bracket. Maybe I missed something, but I was always under the impression that you want to mount your heat sink as tightly as possible to the CPU. I ended up stripping nuts on the stock backplate, and I know I'm not the first one to complain about it. I ended up putting a regular metal backplate on the back and I took a heavy duty plastic backplate, cut it in half and shaped it to fit over aluminum retention bracket (the H70 waterblock is round, not square) and bolted it down. I guess my question is, how tight should the block fit over the CPU on these kits? Is it the same as a regular heat sink?
> What happens with the stock setup is that you tighten it so much that the mold the nut on the back goes in strips because it's so flimsy. IIRC I didn't even have it on but for a day or two before I replaced it.


My first water cooler was an H70. I didn't notice any of the problems you mentioned. Later I bought an H50 for another computer. It uses the same bracket as the H70, and again I did not notice any problems with it. They both worked like a charm and fit very snug to the CPU.

Speaking of the H50, a friend's kid was over on the weekend, and the pump in the H50 got so loud it was annoying. I was thinking about RMAing it, but the next day the kid was using it and it was quiet again. I know, with my luck, if I take it back they won't find anything wrong with it during their testing. I really should have held out for an H60 on that computer.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> Not really worth the upgrade from an H100.


Agreed. They may give you a few more degrees c, and the link, but that's not enough to get me to sell the H100. Nice ideas though. Nice to see Corsair improving them.

Anyone think maybe Corsair has too many models now? Many people get confused when having too many choices (not us, but, you know, those other guys).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> If only there was a way to run dual H100's


You can, depending on either your case or your mod skills. I have seen people place 240mm rads on the front of their cases, and another in the top. If you wanted to run two H100s, you could run one normally, and remove the hard drive cages to mount another vertically at the front of the case. This one would likely be used on your GPU. You'd need some half decent mod skills to mount the rad and fans up front though.


----------



## Erick Silver

Load for me on my 1090t at 3.8Ghz under an H60 is 52*c. Thats Folding Load. 2x Cooler Master R4 red LED in Push/Pull configuration. Idle temps are 30*c Ambient is 28*c.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimaggio1103*
> 
> just ordered the H80 hope its a good improvement over my 212 evo


Yeah I wouldn't expect too much though. While H80 is a solid performing cooler, 212 is a pretty nice Cooler. My bro runs 212+ at the same ambient listed below on his 1055T Folding Load and is running 40c stock clock. I doubt that you're gonna see much difference between your 212 Evo and H80. I have a custom loop and my bro is running the same temp that I am while on Air. Just sayin if you're expecting better temps you probably should temper your expectations.















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Load for me on my 1090t at 3.8Ghz under an H60 is 52*c. Thats Folding Load. 2x Cooler Master R4 red LED in Push/Pull configuration. Idle temps are 30*c Ambient is 28*c.


That's reasonable. My current temp at 23c Ambient with my 360 kit is 40c under Folding Load for my 1100T running 3.2Ghz(stock) so that's a helluva temp considering your mild OC.









~Ceadder


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dimaggio1103*
> 
> just ordered the H80 hope its a good improvement over my 212 evo
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I wouldn't expect too much though. While H80 is a solid performing cooler, 212 is a pretty nice Cooler. My bro runs 212+ at the same ambient listed below on his 1055T Folding Load and is running 40c stock clock. I doubt that you're gonna see much difference between your 212 Evo and H80. I have a custom loop and my bro is running the same temp that I am while on Air. Just sayin if you're expecting better temps you probably should temper your expectations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Load for me on my 1090t at 3.8Ghz under an H60 is 52*c. Thats Folding Load. 2x Cooler Master R4 red LED in Push/Pull configuration. Idle temps are 30*c Ambient is 28*c.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's reasonable. My current temp at 23c Ambient with my 360 kit is 40c under Folding Load for my 1100T running 3.2Ghz(stock) so that's a helluva temp considering your mild OC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

on my 1055t overclocked to 4 ghz i was seeing load temps at 40 with my H100 and idle temp was ambient.


----------



## Lacertia

Ahoy! Finally got my H100!. I have ever so been lurking this thread for awhile until I got my h100, now I do so I'll spring from the shadows !










Excuse the cables









Got 4 Gentle typhoons 1850RPM in p/p setup, So much better then the stock corsair fans, so quite even at max rpm.
Have the 4 GT hooked up to the fan controller

Ambient temp is around 24c

Running a i7 950 at stock at 1.1 volts, Idle temp is 37,36,38,36 with fans at max (Using a bitfenix recon fan controller) at lowest speed is only a few degrees different from max speed. Also this is with HT off.

Btw, I have no idea if these a decent temps so a little insight would be great!
Load temps are at max speed
44,44,46,43
running prime 95 small FFTs

Same but at only 900rpm
48,46,48,45

Pretty nice, only went up a little









Overall I'm very impressed with this cooler.

Think I'm going to spend a little time getting this overclocked and stable


----------



## Prpntblr95

I'll be picking up a H100i on Black Friday whether prices go down or not.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prpntblr95*
> 
> I'll be picking up a H100i on Black Friday whether prices go down or not.


Lucky


----------



## gurglatron

add me up! loving my H80, does it's job well: keeping **** cool!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dimaggio1103*
> 
> just ordered the H80 hope its a good improvement over my 212 evo
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I wouldn't expect too much though. While H80 is a solid performing cooler, 212 is a pretty nice Cooler. My bro runs 212+ at the same ambient listed below on his 1055T Folding Load and is running 40c stock clock. I doubt that you're gonna see much difference between your 212 Evo and H80. I have a custom loop and my bro is running the same temp that I am while on Air. Just sayin if you're expecting better temps you probably should temper your expectations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Load for me on my 1090t at 3.8Ghz under an H60 is 52*c. Thats Folding Load. 2x Cooler Master R4 red LED in Push/Pull configuration. Idle temps are 30*c Ambient is 28*c.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's reasonable. My current temp at 23c Ambient with my 360 kit is 40c under Folding Load for my 1100T running 3.2Ghz(stock) so that's a helluva temp considering your mild OC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> on my 1055t overclocked to 4 ghz i was seeing load temps at 40 with my H100 and idle temp was ambient.
Click to expand...









When Corair comes out with an AIO system specifically created for Crosshair IV Formula board owners that include a FB block in the loop, I'm all over it like stink on a pile of fresh poo.









Still that's reasonably expected given my experience with 1055 temps under Folding Load. Well done Mate. Although you didn't mention that your ambient was 15c at the time?







j/k

~Ceadder


----------



## richie_2010

i want one for my crosshair v board. suppose the coolermaster ones could be the inbetween though pump block for cpu then a block for the vrms and nb added on.


----------



## Dimaggio1103

SO I got my H80 today. What a PITA to install. I have a few questions for any with experiance with these.

The AMD bracket has loops with screws at the top. You loop it on the boards bracket hook, then tighten the screw. How far should I tighten it? I kept screwing it in a little at a time on both sides. The tab that holds the screw to the pump base is now bent at a angle from being tightened. IS that normal? should I back it off some, or go until it cant screw in any farther?

Sorry this thing is hard to describe and its weird. I just left it as is and booted PC up just fine and is keeping it cool, I just don't want long term damage to my CPU or Motherboard.

I think its working good so far. 100% load temps dropped from 67c under IBT to 47c. I have the cooler on medium setting. So I know its working good, just worried about the amount of pressure on my chip.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimaggio1103*
> 
> SO I got my H80 today. What a PITA to install. I have a few questions for any with experiance with these.
> 
> The AMD bracket has loops with screws at the top. You loop it on the boards bracket hook, then tighten the screw. How far should I tighten it? I kept screwing it in a little at a time on both sides. The tab that holds the screw to the pump base is now bent at a angle from being tightened. IS that normal? should I back it off some, or go until it cant screw in any farther?
> 
> Sorry this thing is hard to describe and its weird. I just left it as is and booted PC up just fine and is keeping it cool, I just don't want long term damage to my CPU or Motherboard.
> 
> I think its working good so far. 100% load temps dropped from 67c under IBT to 47c. I have the cooler on medium setting. So I know its working good, just worried about the amount of pressure on my chip.


You tighten them down all the way like mounting a tire on your car. Start a little bit on one corner. Diagonally across from that then directly across and then diagonally across. Keep this up until all mounting screws are firmly tight.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dimaggio1103

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You tighten them down all the way like mounting a tire on your car. Start a little bit on one corner. Diagonally across from that then directly across and then diagonally across. Keep this up until all mounting screws are firmly tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Its AMD so there are only two. If I keep tightening them the tab holding the screw and loop will bend more, should I still do it? I think Im getting good temps so it seems to be working properly. Just worried about being to tight and damaging my CPU, dont care to much about mobo as Ill end up replacing it in a few months anyways.


----------



## CSCoder4ever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimaggio1103*
> 
> Its AMD so there are only two. If I keep tightening them the tab holding the screw and loop will bend more, should I still do it? I think Im getting good temps so it seems to be working properly. Just worried about being to tight and damaging my CPU, dont care to much about mobo as Ill end up replacing it in a few months anyways.


As long as the h80 is installed tight but not too tightly, you should be fine. and as long as you are achieving good temps, it should definitely be alright.


----------



## OverClocker55

H100i I need it


----------



## Dimaggio1103

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSCoder4ever*
> 
> As long as the h80 is installed tight but not too tightly, you should be fine. and as long as you are achieving good temps, it should definitely be alright.


I am worried its too tight. If it is to tight it wont damage the CPU will it? If its just the mobo I don't care much, but just want the cpu to be safe.

Also, FX-6300 at 4.4GHz reaching 52c after 20 runs of IBT, considered good temps for this thing?


----------



## CSCoder4ever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimaggio1103*
> 
> I am worried its too tight. If it is to tight it wont damage the CPU will it?


It shouldn't, you can always loosen up the screws a little bit, just make sure that they are tight enough so vibrations won't make them come loose over time.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSCoder4ever*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dimaggio1103*
> 
> I am worried its too tight. If it is to tight it wont damage the CPU will it?
> 
> 
> 
> It shouldn't, you can always loosen up the screws a little bit, just make sure that they are tight enough so vibrations won't make them come loose over time.
Click to expand...

reasonable hand tight is just fine. snug but not wrenched on


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimaggio1103*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CSCoder4ever*
> 
> As long as the h80 is installed tight but not too tightly, you should be fine. and as long as you are achieving good temps, it should definitely be alright.
> 
> 
> 
> I am worried its too tight. If it is to tight it wont damage the CPU will it? If its just the mobo I don't care much, but just want the cpu to be safe.
> 
> Also, FX-6300 at 4.4GHz reaching 52c after 20 runs of IBT, considered good temps for this thing?
Click to expand...

52c after 20 runs @ 4.4 Ghz is damned nice.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *This!*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CSCoder4ever*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dimaggio1103*
> 
> I am worried its too tight. If it is to tight it wont damage the CPU will it?
> 
> 
> 
> It shouldn't, you can always loosen up the screws a little bit, just make sure that they are tight enough so vibrations won't make them come loose over time.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CSCoder4ever*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dimaggio1103*
> 
> I am worried its too tight. If it is to tight it wont damage the CPU will it?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It shouldn't, you can always loosen up the screws a little bit, just make sure that they are tight enough so vibrations won't make them come loose over time.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> reasonable hand tight is just fine. snug but not wrenched on
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

This. I thot there were four screws, obviously my advice was a little flat.









But yeah as said tight but not wrenched. Seems like you have it pretty good though with a 52c result at 4.4Ghz.









~Ceadder


----------



## [email protected]

I thought these new coolers Corsair announced would be out to buy online now at NewEgg? Heard a few people already gotten theirs somewhere else.


----------



## nezff

Let me ask you guys this. I have the h100 on a stock 3770k. My temps are 28 30 37 29 at idle upon first boot depending on ambient. After playing some bf3 for a while I get temps of 58 59 67 60. Not sure of this is good or not. I do know that I have all settings in my bios at auto. My vcore runs about 1.2 ish at load and turbo is 4ghz.


----------



## banging34hzs

will post my pics soon


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> Let me ask you guys this. I have the h100 on a stock 3770k. My temps are 28 30 37 29 at idle upon first boot depending on ambient. After playing some bf3 for a while I get temps of 58 59 67 60. Not sure of this is good or not. I do know that I have all settings in my bios at auto. My vcore runs about 1.2 ish at load and turbo is 4ghz.


BF3 is pretty intensive and your CPU has a GPU embedded in it. What's not to get?









~Ceadder


----------



## Samurai707

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> Let me ask you guys this. I have the h100 on a stock 3770k. My temps are 28 30 37 29 at idle upon first boot depending on ambient. After playing some bf3 for a while I get temps of 58 59 67 60. Not sure of this is good or not. I do know that I have all settings in my bios at auto. My vcore runs about 1.2 ish at load and turbo is 4ghz.


That looks about right to me. [email protected] on my H80 I can hit 78 on a couple cores at 4.5Ghz.


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> That looks about right to me. [email protected] on my H80 I can hit 78 on a couple cores at 4.5Ghz.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> BF3 is pretty intensive and your CPU has a GPU embedded in it. What's not to get?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks guys. I asked. Couple guys over at the ivy bridge thread and they thought that the vcore running at auto was a tad high. I wasn't sure what temp limits are recommended.

I noticed to that if running prime 95 that the temps will climb into the low 70s.

I noticed ceadder that you were talking about tightening the screws on the h100. I wasn't actually sure how tight or how much to keep going on them. I read somewhere that they will stop on their own but wasn't sure. When doing mine I noticed that my screws started getting a little crooked also even though I was making sure to do them slowly and taking turns.


----------



## Samurai707

You have your Voltage on auto????
Your board probably cranks it under load, hence the high temps... if you're only going to 4.0Ghz, just limit your vcore to about 1.20.
That should be fine... if not crank it a little bit... like 1.205


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> You have your Voltage on auto????
> Your board probably cranks it under load, hence the high temps... if you're only going to 4.0Ghz, just limit your vcore to about 1.20.
> That should be fine... if not crank it a little bit... like 1.205


Right. On my bios I just left it there. Turbo boost on the chip is 4ghz(3.99). The vcore only goes up to 1.2ish under load. It drops to 1.0ish at idle and downclocks.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> Thanks guys. I asked. Couple guys over at the ivy bridge thread and they thought that the vcore running at auto was a tad high. I wasn't sure what temp limits are recommended.
> I noticed to that if running prime 95 that the temps will climb into the low 70s.
> I noticed ceadder that you were talking about tightening the screws on the h100. I wasn't actually sure how tight or how much to keep going on them. I read somewhere that they will stop on their own but wasn't sure. When doing mine I noticed that my screws started getting a little crooked also even though I was making sure to do them slowly and taking turns.


I would think low to mid 70s are about as high as you would want to go. The newer processors run a little warmer from what I've heard. If I torture my i5 2500K at 4.3GHz using Intel Burn Test I hit about 73c. Your processor has a little more going on, so I think your temps are pretty good.

The H100 screws will just stop. When they do, don't try and tighten them any more or they will strip. You could always try test fitting them all before installing the assembly. That way you can get a good idea of how they feel when you tighten them.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> Let me ask you guys this. I have the h100 on a stock 3770k. My temps are 28 30 37 29 at idle upon first boot depending on ambient. After playing some bf3 for a while I get temps of 58 59 67 60. Not sure of this is good or not. I do know that I have all settings in my bios at auto. My vcore runs about 1.2 ish at load and turbo is 4ghz.


I'm guessing ambient is 21 - 24C? That temps @4GHz, when gaming look OK to me. A bit warm but IVY running warmer than SB.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> I noticed ceadder that you were talking about tightening the screws on the h100. I wasn't actually sure how tight or how much to keep going on them. I read somewhere that they will stop on their own but wasn't sure. When doing mine I noticed that my screws started getting a little crooked also even though I was making sure to do them slowly and taking turns.


I tightened it using bare hands until I can't turn it anymore. Then I do 1/3 or 1/2 turn using screwdriver for good measure. This is on socket 2011 & it pretty easy. For other sockets, I'd stop when it start to bend.


----------



## Dimaggio1103

Ok so I was doing some cable management cleanup in my case today and decided to reseat the h80 even though I was getting great temps. I instead this time only tightened as much as I could with just two fingers. Feels like its on there solid but not to tight now.

Getting great results. With my FX-6300 at 4.4GHz 1.38v (1.43 under load) I see a idle temp of 18c and a load temp of 52c under 20 runs of IBT. Same load temp as before except before i was using medium setting on cooler now its on low.

I know if I set it to high I probably would never break 46c on load. This cooler is just simply amazing.

My only gripe is the top cover on the cpu block/pump where it holds the fan controller, is really loose. It actually comes of really easy. It looks like the latches are bent and one is broke, gonna see if corsair can just send me a new top part, without having to RMA the whole thing.


----------



## nezff

any new h100i owners yet?


----------



## kim jong so ill

Looks like Newegg is trying to get rid of some of their H100 stock

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=35-181-017&nm_mc=EMCPB-112012&cm_mmc=EMCPB-112012-_-PB111112-_-Item-_-35-181-017

$114.99 - $20 (Promo code: EMCJJNA27, ends after today) - $15 MIR = *$79.99*


----------



## [email protected]

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181031

Anyone know why they aren't in stock?

Found out the H100i is on the list now for sale but no idea if it's already out? I want it but i have no clue if it'll fit my case or a new build on Antec 1200 v3 or Dark Fleet full towers.

I need to start a new build anytime soon.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181031
> Anyone know why they aren't in stock?
> Found out the H100i is on the list now for sale but no idea if it's already out? I want it but i have no clue if it'll fit my case or a new build on Antec 1200 v3 or Dark Fleet full towers.
> I need to start a new build anytime soon.


Because newegg isnt ready to sell them yet, plain and simple..Not got all the stock, waiting to release it, or some other reason.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimaggio1103*
> 
> Ok so I was doing some cable management cleanup in my case today and decided to reseat the h80 even though I was getting great temps. I instead this time only tightened as much as I could with just two fingers. Feels like its on there solid but not to tight now.
> Getting great results. With my FX-6300 at 4.4GHz 1.38v (1.43 under load) I see a idle temp of 18c and a load temp of 52c under 20 runs of IBT. Same load temp as before except before i was using medium setting on cooler now its on low.
> I know if I set it to high I probably would never break 46c on load. This cooler is just simply amazing.
> My only gripe is the top cover on the cpu block/pump where it holds the fan controller, is really loose. It actually comes of really easy. It looks like the latches are bent and one is broke, gonna see if corsair can just send me a new top part, without having to RMA the whole thing.


18c? What's your ambient? Room temp is 22c.


----------



## triggdev

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181032

Any new owners?


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triggdev*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181032
> Any new owners?


waiting on the h80i. I don't know anywhere the h100i would fit in my case.


----------



## MacLeod

I got tired of waiting for the H100i so I just bought a H100 at Best Buy for $103 with price match. I made sure the lot number was well into the year and its very quiet so I got a good one.

I was running a Hyper 212+ push/pull and I was hitting 61C with my 8150 at 4.4 @ 1.375V with Intel Burn Test. Just got this thing hooked up and fired up IBT and Im at 46C! Man thats awesome!! I tried the max level setting but it made no difference but was a lot louder. Im leaving it on the 2nd level setting right now cause its not any louder than my dual fan Hyper was. Man I cant wait to open this 8150 up and see what it can do! I feel like a kid at Christmas cause this is the first high end cooling Ive ever had.


----------



## jktmas

sorry its not an i but here it is


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MacLeod*
> 
> I got tired of waiting for the H100i so I just bought a H100 at Best Buy for $103 with price match. I made sure the lot number was well into the year and its very quiet so I got a good one.
> I was running a Hyper 212+ push/pull and I was hitting 61C with my 8150 at 4.4 @ 1.375V with Intel Burn Test. Just got this thing hooked up and fired up IBT and Im at 46C! Man thats awesome!! I tried the max level setting but it made no difference but was a lot louder. Im leaving it on the 2nd level setting right now cause its not any louder than my dual fan Hyper was. Man I cant wait to open this 8150 up and see what it can do! I feel like a kid at Christmas cause this is the first high end cooling Ive ever had.


Have you looked at newegg? I believe the H100i has been up there for a few days.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181032&Tpk=h100i


----------



## kim jong so ill

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181031&Tpk=h80i

about damn time!







just ordered one


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181031&Tpk=h80i
> about damn time!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just ordered one


Thanks. Just ordered one too.


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181031&Tpk=h80i
> about damn time!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just ordered one


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Thanks. Just ordered one too.


Post pics!!

Also I want to know what you guys think of the new units.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> Post pics!!
> Also I want to know what you guys think of the new units.


I might be able to get some pics with a canon t3i later, I'll have a number of smart phone pictures and performance read outs in a thread and will possibly have a small video of it to try and get sound...though I doubt it'll work well.


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> I might be able to get some pics with a canon t3i later, I'll have a number of smart phone pictures and performance read outs in a thread and will possibly have a small video of it to try and get sound...though I doubt it'll work well.












Im wondering if the H100i controls other fans unlike the h100. What about maybe other corsair fans being controlled via the new h100i.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im wondering if the H100i controls other fans unlike the h100. What about maybe other corsair fans being controlled via the new h100i.


That'll be a negative from me on the ability to test that requested Intel. I'm running stock antec fans that are powered by molex straight into the PSU and I purchased the H80i as that is the cooler that will fit my case the best.


----------



## kim jong so ill

Got my h80i shipped out already, and to my surprise it's scheduled to be delivered tomorrow! Good timing too cuz i should have a set of corsair sleeved cables waiting for me at home atm. This will be my first Corsair cooler. Im excited







. I might try to stop by my parents house this weekend to get some decent pics with their camera.


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Got my h80i shipped out already, and to my surprise it's scheduled to be delivered tomorrow! Good timing too cuz i should have a set of corsair sleeved cables waiting for me at home atm. This will be my first Corsair cooler. Im excited
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I might try to stop by my parents house this weekend to get some decent pics with their camera.


very interested to see these new coolers. Only thing that is weird, Corsair doesnt have the new sp120L fans for sale? Im wondering if replacements would be an issue.


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> very interested to see these new coolers. Only thing that is weird, Corsair doesnt have the new sp120L fans for sale? Im wondering if replacements would be an issue.


I doubt getting replacements will be an issue. I can only assume they'd rather push sales on their regular Air Series lineup. I'll actually be slapping on my Gelid wings on initial install. Hopefully temps will be adequate.


----------



## kim jong so ill

. Not exactly sure if all orders are shipping through Ontrac, but mine ended up shipping overnight with their free shipping option. Hopefully it gets here before I go into work so it's not just sitting outside my door







. Gonna be the longest day of work ever lol.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Not exactly sure if all orders are shipping through Ontrac, but mine ended up shipping overnight with their free shipping option. Hopefully it gets here before I go into work so it's not just sitting outside my door
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Gonna be the longest day of work ever lol.


You got Lucky. i JUST got my tracking # and I cant see it till 8, according to Newegg. Plus I only paid for 3 day ship ($2 3 day ship? So nice...)


----------



## DOOOLY

Just got the Corsair 100i today







i am loving it coming from the H70 its seems to be almost 10c lower.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DOOOLY*
> 
> Just got the Corsair 100i today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i am loving it coming from the H70 its seems to be almost 10c lower.


How does it look? How are the rubber hoses? I was concerned about those mainly because of the looks. Im also undecided on the grey blade fans.


----------



## DOOOLY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> How does it look? How are the rubber hoses? I was concerned about those mainly because of the looks. Im also undecided on the grey blade fans.


They seem to be thick and durable, it feels like good quality.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DOOOLY*
> 
> Just got the Corsair 100i today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i am loving it coming from the H70 its seems to be almost 10c lower


Seems to be? Did you run tests for comparison?


----------



## Solders18

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DOOOLY*
> 
> Just got the Corsair 100i today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i am loving it coming from the H70 its seems to be almost 10c lower.






Boy that CPU block is sexy







makes my H100 look like a old rusty ford


----------



## kim jong so ill

Bleh, work sucks... Had this waiting for me though. Beware - crappy cell phone pics below.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Got a H100 in my Brother PC.
H60 in my Server PC.
Both this systems are not Overclocked.


----------



## PinkPenguin

My first adventure on water







Up and running, just got to sort cable mgmt out.


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Man those are some really FAT hoses.


----------



## PCEnthusiast85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z3r0_k00l75*
> 
> Man those are some really FAT hoses.


notice that the tube size has been increased but the inlet/outlet of the rad is still 1/4" silly corsair and your tricks.

dont go buy the new "i" kits....just mod your old ones....


----------



## General121

The tubing was changed more than that. There are many reasons why the newer versions are better, especially with the tubing and fan.


----------



## PCEnthusiast85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> The tubing was changed more than that. There are many reasons why the newer versions are better, especially with the tubing and fan.


a 5/8 tube between 2 x 1/4" fittings doesn't do anything. the only improvement on these are the fans, brackets,looks. aside from that its still the same kit.


----------



## Solders18

they also added in the Corsair link connectivity.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im wondering if the H100i controls other fans unlike the h100. What about maybe other corsair fans being controlled via the new h100i.


My H100 can control my Sythe Slip Stream 1900 RPM PWM fans without any problems. You can hear them change speed as the system warms up. Because they didn't have enough range (never really got quiet), I have now plugged them into the CPU fan headers on my main board.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DOOOLY*
> 
> Just got the Corsair 100i today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i am loving it coming from the H70 its seems to be almost 10c lower.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


10C would be about right. When I went from H70 to H100, I got a 7c difference. Since the H100i is supposed to be a couple of c better than the H100, your temp difference seems pretty bang on.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCEnthusiast85*
> 
> notice that the tube size has been increased but the inlet/outlet of the rad is still 1/4" silly corsair and your tricks.
> dont go buy the new "i" kits....just mod your old ones....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


And give up a five year warranty? No thanks. One of the reasons for paying more for Corsair products in the first place is their warranty. Without it, may as well save a few bucks on a cheaper brand.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCEnthusiast85*
> 
> a 5/8 tube between 2 x 1/4" fittings doesn't do anything. the only improvement on these are the fans, brackets,looks. aside from that its still the same kit.


The pump is different. It's not "the same kit". Did you read Corsair George's comments posted here? They have increased the surface area inside the pump and increased the flow rate.

If it's the same kit, with fans that are not as good, how could it achieve better temps?

No matter how much I look at some of these pictures, my H100 does not look like a rusty old Ford.


----------



## PCEnthusiast85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> they also added in the Corsair link connectivity.


does anyone really use this??


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCEnthusiast85*
> 
> does anyone really use this??


yes. I might. It is useful and is needed currently because some units have a slight odd noise with the h100i when the fan rpm is really low.


----------



## PCEnthusiast85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> And give up a five year warranty? No thanks. One of the reasons for paying more for Corsair products in the first place is their warranty. Without it, may as well save a few bucks on a cheaper brand.
> The pump is different. It's not "the same kit". Did you read Corsair George's comments posted here? They have increased the surface area inside the pump and increased the flow rate.
> If it's the same kit, with fans that are not as good, how could it achieve better temps?
> No matter how much I look at some of these pictures, my H100 does not look like a rusty old Ford.


the warranty on these things is a piece of paper that lets them charge more. you pay more cuz you think its better. these are the same thing as the Antec kits and every other CLC kit on the market.

and just to be clear im not flaming Corsair. im using 3 h70s...its just silly they charge so much more for the kits with ther name on them when i can order direct from asetek and get same kit same performance, same quality.

and when is corsair going to make these!!!


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCEnthusiast85*
> 
> the warranty on these things is a piece of paper that lets them charge more. you pay more cuz you think its better. these are the same thing as the Antec kits and every other CLC kit on the market.
> and just to be clear im not flaming Corsair. im using 3 h70s...its just silly they charge so much more for the kits with ther name on them when i can order direct from asetek and get same kit same performance, same quality.
> and when is corsair going to make these!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Well you know they print the name in gold and there are diamonds inside the print they use.


----------



## MacLeod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCEnthusiast85*
> 
> the warranty on these things is a piece of paper that lets them charge more. you pay more cuz you think its better. these are the same thing as the Antec kits and every other CLC kit on the market.
> and just to be clear im not flaming Corsair. im using 3 h70s...its just silly they charge so much more for the kits with ther name on them when i can order direct from asetek and get same kit same performance, same quality.


Correct me if Im wrong but isnt Corsair the only ones thatll replace your damaged components should your cooler spring a leak? I dont think any of the others will do that. Thats worth paying a little extra for in my book. And I don think theyre that expensive. I paid $103 for my H100. Seems about on par with anything else out there in its performance range. A lot cheaper than the Water 2.0 Extreme.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCEnthusiast85*
> 
> the warranty on these things is a piece of paper that lets them charge more. you pay more cuz you think its better. these are the same thing as the Antec kits and every other CLC kit on the market.
> and just to be clear im not flaming Corsair. im using 3 h70s...its just silly they charge so much more for the kits with ther name on them when i can order direct from asetek and get same kit same performance, same quality.
> and when is corsair going to make these!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Exactly what is your point? All warranties are written on a piece of paper. Are you insinuating the warranty is no good?

These have a five year warranty, and Corsair stands behind it. If something goes wrong in 4 years and 11 months, you will get a replacement unit, and if it damaged your equipment, Corsair will likely replace it (assuming it's all caused by a manufacturing defect). Warranties are not just to "let them charge more". They give the consumer piece of mind because they know the manufacturer stands behind their product.

I just checked Asetek's site, and none of there products is even remotely like the H100. Unless I'm missing something (and I don't doubt that I could be), the square pumps on the H60, H80 and H100 and the round pumps on the Asetek products are nothing alike. In fact, I'm pretty sure these Corsair units are made by Coolit in Calgary, not Asetek.

You're using 3 H70s? That's explains your remarks, as the H70 is only one of Corsair's products, and it does have the round pump which may indeed be made by Asetek (I couldn't swear to it though). The H80 and H100 (and H60) use different pumps made by Coolit.

So, you can go on about how there's no difference, and how they're all "the same kit", but they are not.


----------



## AusNorman

Just loving the convo ^^^^









Im running a H80 with CM Excalibur fans in a push pull with 5mm fan shroud on both sides and I LOVE IT!

Ditto on the 5yr warranty, If it does fail you will get a replacement part and any dmg cause by its leaking/defect they will replace too.... how can you say that is not awesome as hell!!!


----------



## Covert_Death

have to agree with covering the damage their product causes. that is the reason i will never buy another brand. I have an H60 right now and will be upgrading to an h100i once they hit amazon (come onnnnnn already) and i was always hesitant about putting water in my rig until corsair. i know that if it leaks on my GTX670 that they will replace both and that is piece of mind thats worth the "extra" money you pay for a quality product and service.


----------



## AusNorman

Nice motherboard Covert


----------



## Covert_Death

thanks, I absolutely love this board... although it wasn't the "in board" to get this socket round, its one hell of a performer, now its just learning how FX-8350 clocks... its a lot different than the 955BE i had in before LOL

how do you like yours?


----------



## mrrockwell

Here's my h100 in Fractal design define mini.


----------



## Mergatroid

@mrrockwell

Nice job there. We're seeing more and more people completely removing the hard drive and optical bays to place radiators. You must have awesome air flow. What's the load temp on your 2500K?


----------



## _TRU_

ok all. i know this may of been asked before, but i searched and got no results. i wanted to put some anti-kink wire on 2 H60's and 1 H100. i wanted to know the tubing size for both, and if possible some pics/links of people who have already done so. Also if possible, the length of both sets of tubing. ty


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> @mrrockwell
> Nice job there. We're seeing more and more people completely removing the hard drive and optical bays to place radiators. You must have awesome air flow. What's the load temp on your 2500K?


Thanks. But the air flow it's not that great since I'm running my fans on low and that way not much air is blowing through the rad. My temps on prime load are about 72 never exceded 75 celsius. On gaming load is abou 56-58 max.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_TRU_*
> 
> ok all. i know this may of been asked before, but i searched and got no results. i wanted to put some anti-kink wire on 2 H60's and 1 H100. i wanted to know the tubing size for both, and if possible some pics/links of people who have already done so. Also if possible, the length of both sets of tubing. ty


http://www.overclock.net/t/541767/club-for-those-with-beastly-matx-itx-rigs/3780#post_17201429

you might as that feller


----------



## _TRU_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/541767/club-for-those-with-beastly-matx-itx-rigs/3780#post_17201429
> you might as that feller


ty for the link.


----------



## General121

hey guys. Time for that promised H80i review and group of pictures.
Boy, its been an hour maybe installing all this only because of my youthful mistakes and double checking. The actual installation is rather easy, its just my case is crowded and my hands are large. Fun stuff.

First impressions: Very nice Newegg packaging. Very nice Corsair packaging (Quite well designed, nothing will be broken inside this likely). I was surprised by how light this baby was. Very good quality on the fans and connection.

Instructions: I didnt look at them too much, thus some of my errors. The pictures were rather easy to follow and pretty much the only thing I looked at for confirmation.

Mounting brackets: Now here's possibly the only thing I don't like. The back-plate is cheaply made and rather annoying. I think it might've been made of plastic. Either way, it gave me the most issues of all. the Intel 1155 bracket was not that bad (Bracket sitting on top to fasten the cooler down to the CPU). Also, you could not easily tell how well seated you were, as you cant see how the cooler is contacting the CPU. All in all, it seemed like something Corsair should definitely improve upon. A system much like the Hyper 212+ mounting system would be loads better.

Fans: Good fans, awesome that it comes with two. Not too noisy. One thing that frustrated me is the manual said they had arrows inside to show direction of airflow. For the life of me I could not find those arrows. Ended up comparing the fan to how I had my Antec fan in and I got it in right. P.S. These things push massive air even on a low-med RPM!

The tubing was very nice and quite flexible, as I had to twist them quite a bit for my case..I did not seat the pump/res? as well as I could have, and it did not take a liking to my case..A bit of a tight fit.

Startup: Oddly, upon the first startup, the fans started at 100% speed (very loud!) and I dont know why. A second later, the Corsair LED turned on. Then the fans slowed. I guess the fans were told to run at 100%, then the Corsair Link kicked in and told em to slow down.

Performance at stock i5 2500K (3.3-3.6GHz as per boost, whatever it would boost to):
Hyper 212+ // Corsair H80i
Idle: ~35C // ~29C
Load with [email protected]: ~55C // 41C MAX after 30+min of Folding.
I was suprised by the idle temps. Granted, as I said earlier, I was hardly able to properly seat the H80i since it was a tight fit and the twisted tubing made it want to turn and turn and turn the wrong way.

Performance at 4.7GHz Intel i5 2500k @ 1.425vcore (Yes my baby requires that much volts







)
Hyper 212+ // Corsair H80i
Idle: 35-40C I believe // 35C
P95 load ([email protected] stopped working) : 70C max // max 60C, avg 55C.

4.7GHz scores very impressive, with the clock and vcore it has to handle (Plus me writing this as P95 is running). Two cores generally stay near 55C, while two others stay at 52/53C sometimes.

Overall, I am very pleased with this product. Corsair would =/= quality but some minor adjustments are needed with the backplate/mounting bracket design and materials aswell as the location of the supposed fan indicating air flow direction.
Picture time! Many apologies for the low quality smartphone pictures.

My trusty assistant named Whiskers. Shes got whiskers almost bigger than my 9yr old dog and she has a tail almost the length of her main body. Shes under 1 year old.







Thats it! Theres my review.
Can I join the club?


----------



## ElectroGeek007

I would like to join this club.









(Pardon the awful picture)



I got my H100i a couple days ago, and have been very pleased with its performance (FX-8320 @ 4.8 GHz, max temp during IBT: 53C!)

As you can see in the picture, due to the rather small case I have (Zalman Z9), I had to mount the rad to the inside of the top of the case, and the fans on the outside in an intake configuration.

Currently, I have to plug the fans into the motherboard since I am experiencing the rattling problem that seems somewhat common in the new models.

I am also having trouble making the H100i show up in the Corsair Link software, I hope that that issue can be solved with the upcoming firmware update as well.

Note that I am running Windows 8, which may not be officially supported by the Corsair Link software.


----------



## Liranan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> The pump is different. It's not "the same kit". Did you read Corsair George's comments posted here? *They have increased the surface area inside the pump and increased the flow rate.*
> If it's the same kit, with fans that are not as good, how could it achieve better temps?
> No matter how much I look at some of these pictures, my H100 does not look like a rusty old Ford.


Are there any pictures of the waterblock? I would love to see a comparison between the regular and the i series.


----------



## Mergatroid

I wouldn't mind seeing a few myself.


----------



## camOxcrazE

Some nice rigs and good info in this thread, I've been following it since I started looking into alternative cpu cooling for my first build. She's only been running for a month or so but I figured I'd jump in an switch out the stock intel fan as soon as possible. Went with the new H100i of course, going into my C70 with a stock i7 3770k on an ASUS P8Z77-V Deluxe mobo. Installation seemed like a breeze, watched a few install vids including corsairs but I've run into a few concerns I figured I'd share here before I continue. Keep in mind I'm also completely new to building PC's









1) Pre applied TIM - I've measured the amount on the cooler block and it will cover the entire cpu and then some, basically drowning the cpu & socket in TIM. A few people in the H100i review thread & the corsair forums say there is way too much, this seems obvious to me. Should I remove some to ensure no leaking/overflow onto the mobo/socket or should I wipe it clean and go with another brand TIM?

2) Backplate / Standoffs - While mounting the backplate & standoffs I've noticed they don't sit snug against the motherboard, I could probably fit a penny between the standoffs & mobo. I'm using the supplied 1155 standoffs. I've looked through several threads on corsairs forums stating the same problem from people using varied motherboards. Most people with this problem recommend using plastic washers between the actual backplate & backplate nuts going through the motherboard. However several people don't recommend this, stating it's the way it is designed and when the cooler is seated, the thumbscrews should pull both pieces together, essentially eliminating this space so it sits snug. I've even read someone was instructed by corsair customer service that they might need a universal backplate.









A couple links from other users discussing the problem, first link includes images..

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=104576&page=2

http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=109596

Anyways, just my luck, I decided to try and install on thanksgiving so now I'll have to brave the black friday mobs if I decide to head to the store tomorrow for some TIM & washers







I may end up just going for it and seeing how things turn out but FIRST, I will be filling my belly with a delicious turkey dinner! Thanks in advance and if you celebrate it, HAPPY THANKSGIVING OCN!


----------



## Simkin

Anyone here have this sound on their H80/100i?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5ktosofTZs

This is after the firmware update, a high pitched sound that cuts through everything. *(Not my video, but i have the exact same noise)*


----------



## Vaub

Can I join, here's my H80i









My experience for now: http://www.overclock.net/products/corsair-hydro-series-h80i-water-cooler/reviews/5514

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simkin*
> 
> Anyone here have this sound on their H80/100i?
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5ktosofTZs
> This is after the firm update, a high pitched sound that cuts through everything. *(Not my video, but i have the exact same noise)*


Try to plug your fan in a motherboard header instead of the fan controller, I had the same problem and it fixed it for me.


----------



## homestyle

how loud are the new "i" series pumps in comparison to the previous pumps?

i value silence and every CLC i've used from corsair to antec has had the very slight electrical buzz. its not loud, but the pitch can drive you insane when you have only 1-2 fans running 600rpm.


----------



## CSCoder4ever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElectroGeek007*
> 
> I would like to join this club.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Pardon the awful picture)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got my H100i a couple days ago, and have been very pleased with its performance (FX-8320 @ 4.8 GHz, max temp during IBT: 53C!)
> As you can see in the picture, due to the rather small case I have (Zalman Z9), I had to mount the rad to the inside of the top of the case, and the fans on the outside in an intake configuration.
> Currently, I have to plug the fans into the motherboard since I am experiencing the rattling problem that seems somewhat common in the new models.
> I am also having trouble making the H100i show up in the Corsair Link software, I hope that that issue can be solved with the upcoming firmware update as well.
> Note that I am running Windows 8, which may not be officially supported by the Corsair Link software.


Not bad! Looks promising!


----------



## kim jong so ill

An hour-long, in-depth review of the H100i


----------



## kzone75

This is my review of TTLs review:

yaaaawn.. No review have to be that long.

Still very happy with my H100.


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> This is my review of TTLs review:
> yaaaawn.. No review have to be that long.
> Still very happy with my H100.


lol, I couldn't watch the whole thing myself. Figured there would be a couple people on here that would though


----------



## kim jong so ill

H80i sitting pretty in my rig


----------



## JMatzelle3

Is it ok to get the H80 (Older Version) and use one fan due to case and motherboard limitations? Will i lose alot of performance


----------



## NotReadyYet

Is there a way to hook up two H70 radiators together? For instance this is what I am trying to do;

Fan

Basically want to use one rad for my CPU and the other for the GPU using Dwoods bracket to hook up the H70 to the 7979.

Thoughts?


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMatzelle3*
> 
> Is it ok to get the H80 (Older Version) and use one fan due to case and motherboard limitations? Will i lose alot of performance


You will run 2c hotter than others with both fans at the very max. The h80i only runs a few C cooler than the h80


----------



## JMatzelle3

Thanks


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *camOxcrazE*
> 
> Some nice rigs and good info in this thread, I've been following it since I started looking into alternative cpu cooling for my first build. She's only been running for a month or so but I figured I'd jump in an switch out the stock intel fan as soon as possible. Went with the new H100i of course, going into my C70 with a stock i7 3770k on an ASUS P8Z77-V Deluxe mobo. Installation seemed like a breeze, watched a few install vids including corsairs but I've run into a few concerns I figured I'd share here before I continue. Keep in mind I'm also completely new to building PC's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1) Pre applied TIM - I've measured the amount on the cooler block and it will cover the entire cpu and then some, basically drowning the cpu & socket in TIM. A few people in the H100i review thread & the corsair forums say there is way too much, this seems obvious to me. Should I remove some to ensure no leaking/overflow onto the mobo/socket or should I wipe it clean and go with another brand TIM?
> 2) Backplate / Standoffs - While mounting the backplate & standoffs I've noticed they don't sit snug against the motherboard, I could probably fit a penny between the standoffs & mobo. I'm using the supplied 1155 standoffs. I've looked through several threads on corsairs forums stating the same problem from people using varied motherboards. Most people with this problem recommend using plastic washers between the actual backplate & backplate nuts going through the motherboard. However several people don't recommend this, stating it's the way it is designed and when the cooler is seated, the thumbscrews should pull both pieces together, essentially eliminating this space so it sits snug. I've even read someone was instructed by corsair customer service that they might need a universal backplate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple links from other users discussing the problem, first link includes images..
> http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=104576&page=2
> http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=109596
> Anyways, just my luck, I decided to try and install on thanksgiving so now I'll have to brave the black friday mobs if I decide to head to the store tomorrow for some TIM & washers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may end up just going for it and seeing how things turn out but FIRST, I will be filling my belly with a delicious turkey dinner! Thanks in advance and if you celebrate it, HAPPY THANKSGIVING OCN!


I've installed several Corsair coolers and have not had the amount of TIM cause any problems. When I have had to remove a few for other reasons, I did not notice any tim covering the socket.

I have the H100 in my own rig now, and I did put a few paper washers in the standoffs, but I don't think it made any huge difference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMatzelle3*
> 
> Is it ok to get the H80 (Older Version) and use one fan due to case and motherboard limitations? Will i lose alot of performance


That would work, but you would lose a few degrees. Why not consider the H60 with a thinner rad and one fan?


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> H80i sitting pretty in my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love it! How's the H80i working out?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NotReadyYet*
> 
> Is there a way to hook up two H70 radiators together? For instance this is what I am trying to do;
> Fan
> Basically want to use one rad for my CPU and the other for the GPU using Dwoods bracket to hook up the H70 to the 7979.
> Thoughts?


It is possible but the pump is really only for 1 rad. It would be better just to get real pump,rad's and tubes.


----------



## NotReadyYet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Love it! How's the H80i working out?
> It is possible but the pump is really only for 1 rad. It would be better just to get real pump,rad's and tubes.


Both pumps will still be there. One is for the GPU and other is CPU. However I have no space to put another rad which is why I wanted to know if I can mount them onto eachother


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NotReadyYet*
> 
> Both pumps will still be there. One is for the GPU and other is CPU. However I have no space to put another rad which is why I wanted to know if I can mount them onto eachother


Wow must of read that wrong. Sorry well You could but do [Fan>Rad1>Fan>Rad2>Fan. It would be pretty crazy.


----------



## NotReadyYet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Wow must of read that wrong. Sorry well You could but do [Fan>Rad1>Fan>Rad2>Fan. It would be pretty crazy.


Think having 2 rads will mess up the temperatures?


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NotReadyYet*
> 
> Think having 2 rads will mess up the temperatures?


Aslong as you have good cooling no. But its going to be hard to do that. Might just get a bigger case with room for 2 120's


----------



## NotReadyYet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Aslong as you have good cooling no. But its going to be hard to do that. Might just get a bigger case with room for 2 120's


There's room in my lanboy air to put them back to back.


----------



## _TRU_

any1 know the diameter of the new "i" series?


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_TRU_*
> 
> any1 know the diameter of the new "i" series?


diameter of what?


----------



## _TRU_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> diameter of what?


lol my bad. i need tubing diameter. been googling but no luck


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_TRU_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> diameter of what?
> 
> 
> 
> lol my bad. i need tubing diameter. been googling but no luck
Click to expand...

i believe earlier in this thread someone said that the barbs were the same size as the non i's just the tubing was thicker. if that is the case then it is 6mm(1/4) ID 8mm(5/16) OD


----------



## _TRU_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> i believe earlier in this thread someone said that the barbs were the same size as the non i's just the tubing was thicker. if that is the case then it is 6mm(1/4) ID 8mm(5/16) OD


kk ty







. going to use some a-k wire on this. aesthetic reasons of course








what would be better. 3/8 or 5/16 for coil?


----------



## mwl5apv

I have an H70 in my system at the moment, and I was looking to possibly swap out the corsair fans that came stock with this cooler.

while reading through the site I keep running into gentle typhoons being at or near the top of good yet quiet radiator fans. My question is, I was looking at either the cooler master excalibur fans or the newer corsair fans.( the SP and AF series) what is the difference between the two? and which one would perform better on the radiator of the original H70 while being a bit quieter than the stock fans?


----------



## AusNorman

Yeah Covert I love my board, never had an issue yet hehehe and I love to play and overclock etc







4.0ghz oh yeah


----------



## AusNorman

I own 5x CM Excalibur fans in my Antec 300 gaming case.

A good solid drop in noise and the temps are the same if not a few 'c better, I would also suggest getting some rubber 120mm fan shrouds 3-5mm thick (less vibration and give a good clearance off the radiator so you dont get as bad dead spot right behind the fans central hub)










And yes when its under load they will roar but not as bad as the stock corsair 2300rpm beasts! They say the CM excab's only go tp 2000rpm but all 5 of mine do 2200+ rpm max


----------



## PCEnthusiast85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Exactly what is your point? All warranties are written on a piece of paper. Are you insinuating the warranty is no good?
> These have a five year warranty, and Corsair stands behind it. If something goes wrong in 4 years and 11 months, you will get a replacement unit, and if it damaged your equipment, Corsair will likely replace it (assuming it's all caused by a manufacturing defect). Warranties are not just to "let them charge more". They give the consumer piece of mind because they know the manufacturer stands behind their product.
> I just checked Asetek's site, and none of there products is even remotely like the H100. Unless I'm missing something (and I don't doubt that I could be), the square pumps on the H60, H80 and H100 and the round pumps on the Asetek products are nothing alike. In fact, I'm pretty sure these Corsair units are made by Coolit in Calgary, not Asetek.
> You're using 3 H70s? That's explains your remarks, as the H70 is only one of Corsair's products, and it does have the round pump which may indeed be made by Asetek (I couldn't swear to it though). The H80 and H100 (and H60) use different pumps made by Coolit.
> So, you can go on about how there's no difference, and how they're all "the same kit", but they are not.


woah killer, lets not get snappy. im not trying to start a fight. like i stated before i use the corsair kits aswell...why? not cuz of the warranty and not because i think they are better....i just am. i have everything else corsair in most of my systems. im not knocking the product at all. its solid. the corsair link system is cool if you got the money to drop on it ( i personally think its to pricey) which is why i made the statement previously.

You are correct in that Coolit does make the new square pumps. Im using the circle pumps that are made by Asetek that corsair used for a short time. Both of these systems are identical, Asetek is even trying to file lawsuits against coolit over the production of these (i seriously hope this doesnt happen...) micro channels and aesthetics aside they are pretty much the same pumps and circuits.

i can go on if you would like but ive done my research and it sounds like you need to do some of your own.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwl5apv*
> 
> I have an H70 in my system at the moment, and I was looking to possibly swap out the corsair fans that came stock with this cooler.
> while reading through the site I keep running into gentle typhoons being at or near the top of good yet quiet radiator fans. My question is, I was looking at either the cooler master excalibur fans or the newer corsair fans.( the SP and AF series) what is the difference between the two? and which one would perform better on the radiator of the original H70 while being a bit quieter than the stock fans?


the corsair SP fans are fantastic imo and i really like the color rings.


----------



## NotReadyYet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwl5apv*
> 
> I have an H70 in my system at the moment, and I was looking to possibly swap out the corsair fans that came stock with this cooler.
> while reading through the site I keep running into gentle typhoons being at or near the top of good yet quiet radiator fans. My question is, I was looking at either the cooler master excalibur fans or the newer corsair fans.( the SP and AF series) what is the difference between the two? and which one would perform better on the radiator of the original H70 while being a bit quieter than the stock fans?


Forget corsair fans or the cooler master ones. Their CFM and static pressure are not what they rate then to be. If you want better temps by swapping fans you will need a fan with great static pressure which is basically any 120x38 fan.

Remember, RPM and CFM mean nothing if the static pressure sucks, otherwise the air isn't being directed anywhere.


----------



## mwl5apv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AusNorman*
> 
> I own 5x CM Excalibur fans in my Antec 300 gaming case.
> A good solid drop in noise and the temps are the same if not a few 'c better, I would also suggest getting some rubber 120mm fan shrouds 3-5mm thick (less vibration and give a good clearance off the radiator so you dont get as bad dead spot right behind the fans central hub)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes when its under load they will roar but not as bad as the stock corsair 2300rpm beasts! They say the CM excab's only go tp 2000rpm but all 5 of mine do 2200+ rpm max


I currently have my corsair fans runnin at about 1500-1600rpm. With these fans it seemed to be the sweet spot between cooling and noise. However, a bit quieter would be nice, without loosing any cooling power.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCEnthusiast85*
> 
> the corsair SP fans are fantastic imo and i really like the color rings.


thanks for opinion!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NotReadyYet*
> 
> Forget corsair fans or the cooler master ones. Their CFM and static pressure are not what they rate then to be. If you want better temps by swapping fans you will need a fan with great static pressure which is basically any 120x38 fan.
> Remember, RPM and CFM mean nothing if the static pressure sucks, otherwise the air isn't being directed anywhere.


Ive seen a fwe different sets of numbers come from these fans. ive seen websites rate the fans at 1.92mm/H2O and some at over 3mm/H2O. The same goes for some reviews.

Which fans would you suggest? something i can get at either a microcenter or frys store. As i have issues with packages getting lost when buying online. Have you ahd any experience with either of teh two i was looking at?


----------



## PCEnthusiast85

check out this review...he does some very good testing with the new h100i. This should give you a good idea of how the SP fans from corsair work. hes using the stock fans from the h100i but he compares the performance to the market SP fans from Corsair.

he starts performance tests about 25 mins into the video but if you have an hour to kill its a good full review of the newbie coolers.


----------



## mwl5apv

ill be sure to check it out when i get home from work! Thanks!


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NotReadyYet*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mwl5apv*
> 
> My question is, I was looking at either the cooler master excalibur fans or the newer corsair fans.( the SP and AF series) what is the difference between the two? and which one would perform better on the radiator of the original H70 *while being a bit quieter* than the stock fans?
> 
> 
> 
> Forget corsair fans or the cooler master ones. Their CFM and static pressure are not what they rate then to be. If you want better temps by swapping fans you will need a fan with great static pressure which is basically any 120x38 fan.
> Remember, RPM and CFM mean nothing if the static pressure sucks, otherwise the air isn't being directed anywhere.
Click to expand...

BREAK - BREAK - BREAK ... F/18 Super Hornet, call sign "NotReadyYet" flying Solo with multiple bogies on his SIX ... all with a LOCK ... going down in flames??? LoL









I'll let all the other pilots in this thread decide if you "flameout" or not, but to insinuate that you need a "Noisy" 38mm fan for performance and that the CM/Corsair fans are mis-reporting/representing their stats and *will not perform* is Nonsense! ... care to "Link" or back that up w/facts?







... Additionally read "mwl5apv" original question???

@ "mwl5apv" Although you did not mention if you needed a PWM fan or not? I do not personally own the "Excalibur R4" [HERE]or the "SP120 HP" [HERE] but I keep up with this thread pretty regularly and it is a toss up between the 2 with the edge going to the Corsairs in Performance/noise/cost$$$ ... if you need 2 fans it's hard to beat the Corsair twin pak saving you about $10 on the second fan [HERE]

The guys do really like the Scythe GT's but I think they're being discontinued and are pretty hard to find, but you can still find them [HERE] In the past, I personally prefered the Noctua NF-P12 over them for Quietness/performance but they're a bit overpriced and "ugly" in my book. There is also a PWM version [HERE]

Although Corsair has had some problems with the release of the new "i" series, no one is complaining about the fans! And if I were to replace my H100 fans I'd go with the newest tech Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition 120mm [Static Pressure (mm/H2O): 3.1 mm/H2O] fans .... if you don't care about noise and have the room in your case, then you could go with a 38mm fan for a pure performance boost but trust me my Delta 38mm was just to noisy for me ... Hope that helps ....









EDIT:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwl5apv*
> 
> something i can get at either a microcenter or frys store. As i have issues with packages getting lost when buying online.


Sorry didn't see this







... you'll be hard pressed to find the high end fans at a big box store ... maybe they can order them for you??? But I'd order online, give it another shot ... Newegg is very accomodating even w/lost packages BUT that rarely happens w/their excellent "Package Tracking" service


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCEnthusiast85*
> 
> check out this review...he does some very good testing with the new h100i. This should give you a good idea of how the SP fans from corsair work. hes using the stock fans from the h100i but he compares the performance to the market SP fans from Corsair.
> he starts performance tests about 25 mins into the video but if you have an hour to kill its a good full review of the newbie coolers.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Posted that already on page 2142








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Love it! How's the H80i working out?


It's a nice little cooler. I'm not seeing much of a temperature difference between this and my old Intel liquid cooler. I'm using the pre-applied TIM, and my 2500k idles at 30c. Maybe I'll see a decrease if I re-seat it with some better stuff. Overall, I'm pleased with the performance and more so with the aesthetics


----------



## NotReadyYet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> BREAK - BREAK - BREAK ... F/18 Super Hornet, call sign "NotReadyYet" flying Solo with multiple bogies on his SIX ... all with a LOCK ... going down in flames??? LoL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll let all the other pilots in this thread decide if you "flameout" or not, but to insinuate that you need a "Noisy" 38mm fan for performance and that the CM/Corsair fans are mis-reporting/representing their stats and *will not perform* is Nonsense! ... care to "Link" or back that up w/facts?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Additionally read "mwl5apv" original question???
> @ "mwl5apv" Although you did not mention if you needed a PWM fan or not? I do not personally own the "Excalibur R4" [HERE]or the "SP120 HP" [HERE] but I keep up with this thread pretty regularly and it is a toss up between the 2 with the edge going to the Corsairs in Performance/noise/cost$$$ ... if you need 2 fans it's hard to beat the Corsair twin pak saving you about $10 on the second fan [HERE]
> The guys do really like the Scythe GT's but I think they're being discontinued and are pretty hard to find, but you can still find them [HERE] In the past, I personally prefered the Noctua NF-P12 over them for Quietness/performance but they're a bit overpriced and "ugly" in my book. There is also a PWM version [HERE]
> Although Corsair has had some problems with the release of the new "i" series, no one is complaining about the fans! And if I were to replace my H100 fans I'd go with the newest tech Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition 120mm [Static Pressure (mm/H2O): 3.1 mm/H2O] fans .... if you don't care about noise and have the room in your case, then you could go with a 38mm fan for a pure performance boost but trust me my Delta 38mm was just to noisy for me ... Hope that helps ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> Sorry didn't see this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... you'll be hard pressed to find the high end fans at a big box store ... maybe they can order them for you??? But I'd order online, give it another shot ... Newegg is very accomodating even w/lost packages BUT that rarely happens w/their excellent "Package Tracking" service


Fan manufacturers typically misrepresent their specifications since they rate their fans under ideal (read: their) preset conditions. For example; in a temperature controlled environment, at sea level (where the air is thicker), in the open air (without being inside a rig), with 0% humidity, not measuring static pressure under water, ect,. Indeed, very few manufacturers provide performance curve diagrams with any of their fan marketing materials. This should immediately signal red flags to you. In order to enlighten you and the rest of this forum allow me to provide facts backing up my claim in so much regarding the performance of a 25mm vs. 38mm fan.

But in order to get started we must define what exactly static pressure is, and why it should trump any other spec when shopping around for a fan to hook up to a radiator:

Static Pressure is merely measured air pressure. Higher static pressure means the fan can output air that can more easily overcome the resistance to airflow. High pressure fans are especially ideal for fans installed on heat sinks or radiators, since the air will be forced through the fins and heat pipes more easily.1

Although difficult to find authentic tests around the internet which are trust worthy you can interpret whatever the gentleman in this link summed up. He reported his results of the 25mm vs. 38mm showdown very eloquently, and scientifically.

Regarding your other point, I never inferred that their fans will under perform as is, just that you aren't getting the most out of your set up by going with their provided fans, but I will take it a step further than that.

As a fan fanatic, I have tested over 30 different types of fans in my rig. It cost a lot of time and money, but was worth it since I didn't want a custom water cooled setup. Besides, I love the idea of cutting off every little degree of heat from my case.

All of my tests were performed under the same circumstances; the temperature of my room was set to a constant 72F, when the test was finished, I shut my rig down and left, allowing the room to cool off since running Prime95 would throw off my results. This was measured using a thermal thermometer. Nothing else was on or drawing electricity in my room.

*Test Bench*

Case: Antec Lanboy Air
CPU: Intel i7 2600k @ stock speed/volts
Memory: Mushkin Redline PC17000 4x4GB
GPU: MSI Radeon 6850 Power Edition
Mobo: ASRock Z68 Pro Gen3 Fatal1ty
Cooling: Corsair H70 (push/pull)
Thermal Paste: Tuniq TX-3 Extreme
PSU: Seasonic 750x Gold
SSD: Crucial M4
OS: Windows 7 Pro 64

*Test Conditions*

The computer was set on a table in the middle of my 15ft x 15ft room, it was then booted up and allowed to sit for 10 minutes before I measure the temperature using RealTemp. Then, I ran Prime95 for 10 minutes and pulled the temperatures from RealTemp. I added up all the core temperatures and averaged them to get the temperatures in my results below. I did not measure acoustic levels since I wear noise isolating headphones while using my rig.

Here are the settings I used for Prime95.



Here are just some of my results:

*Gelid Solutions 120 x 25 Gamer Wing Fan*

Max RPMs: 1800
CPU (idle): 22C
CPU (load): 50C

*Scythe "GentleTyphoon" 120 x 25 Silent Case Fan*

Max RPMs: 1800
CPU (idle): 24C
CPU (load) 52C

*Panaflow 120 x 38 Ultra High speed Fan*

Max RPMs: 2750
CPU (idle): 17C
CPU (load): 45C

*Corsair Air Series 120 x 25 "SP" Fan*

Max RPMs: 2350
CPU (idle): 23C
CPU (load): 52C

*Antec "Tricool" 120 x 25 Fan*

Max RPMs: 2000
CPU (idle): 22C
CPU (load): 51C

*Scythe "ULTRA KAZE" 120 x 38 Fan*

Max RPMs: 3000
CPU (idle): 17C
CPU (load): 45C

*Cougar Vortex 120 x 25 Fan*

Max RPMs: 1500
CPU (idle): 23C
CPU (load): 51C

As you can clearly see all 120 x 38 fans blew away the 120 x 25 fans by a fair margin. Of course these results are specific to my setup and should not be considered canon. I do not doubt, however, that anyone who uses a 38mm fan against a 25mm fan would yield results where the 25 fan trumped the 38. Of course, fan companies can claim that the shapes of their fan blades, the addition of winglets, ect., can help improve static pressure; but what none of those features add is surface area, which a 120 x 25 fan cannot pull out of thin air against a 120 x 38 fan.

In any event, I think you misjudged what I was getting at by trying to flame me with your clever, but disparaging narrative. I'm not insulting fan boys, I'm merely trying to help others who want to get the most out of their Corsair cooling systems.


----------



## mwl5apv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> @ "mwl5apv" Although you did not mention if you needed a PWM fan or not? I do not personally own the "Excalibur R4" [HERE]or the "SP120 HP" [HERE] but I keep up with this thread pretty regularly and it is a toss up between the 2 with the edge going to the Corsairs in Performance/noise/cost$$$ ... if you need 2 fans it's hard to beat the Corsair twin pak saving you about $10 on the second fan [HERE]
> The guys do really like the Scythe GT's but I think they're being discontinued and are pretty hard to find, but you can still find them [HERE] In the past, I personally prefered the Noctua NF-P12 over them for Quietness/performance but they're a bit overpriced and "ugly" in my book. There is also a PWM version [HERE]
> Although Corsair has had some problems with the release of the new "i" series, no one is complaining about the fans! And if I were to replace my H100 fans I'd go with the newest tech Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition 120mm [Static Pressure (mm/H2O): 3.1 mm/H2O] fans .... if you don't care about noise and have the room in your case, then you could go with a 38mm fan for a pure performance boost but trust me my Delta 38mm was just to noisy for me ... Hope that helps ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> Sorry didn't see this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... you'll be hard pressed to find the high end fans at a big box store ... maybe they can order them for you??? But I'd order online, give it another shot ... Newegg is very accomodating even w/lost packages BUT that rarely happens w/their excellent "Package Tracking" service


thanks for the awesome response! 3-pin fans will work perfectly fine(I should have mentioned that) as I will either control/set the speed via BIOS or a fan controller. I was leaning towards the corsair fans but was not sure. Ive tried doing a lot of reading around to see what the general population though of them and how they faired on a radiator and compared to other similarly priced counterparts. The micro center near me has the corsair sp series fans. Their twin pack is priced at but they price match newegg on a daily basis.

http://www.microcenter.com/product/389219/Air_Series_SP120_High_Performance_Edition_120mm_Case_Fan_-_Twin_Pack

Seems that more I read the more i lean towards corsair. I might bite the bullet and give them a try. Thanks again for the reply!









@ *NotReadyYet*... your post helped out quite a bit as well. With your results, it seems that the corsair fans yielded the same results as the GT's but at a lower rpm.









One more question I have however is.....

is there a difference between the sp performance ad sp quiet edition fans other than maximum rpm? meaning, (and i assume so) the sp120 performance fans move the same exact amount of air at 1650-1700rpm as the sp120 quiet edition fans move at max(1650-1700)rpm, correct? Dumb question, i know...


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NotReadyYet*
> 
> Fan manufacturers typically misrepresent their specifications since they rate their fans under ideal (read: their) preset conditions.
> 
> *I did not measure acoustic levels since I wear noise isolating headphones while using my rig.*


Very Nice Response/Explanation ... You get your "Wings" back!








In all seriousness you and I are on the same page and I apologise for releasing to much "Chaff" ! The key misunderstanding here was that you're speaking from a purely performance perspective, hence no acustic levels considered, and I thought that might be a bit confusing for "mwl5apv", otherwise I completely agree with your "physics" lesson above. I also find real world results such as yours very helpful, as not all of us can afford the time ($$$?) to test multitudes of components/setups. Fanboy or NOT I think Corsair has done a pretty reputable job of engineering and matching components (fans) and all the average user has to go on is published specs and sometimes slanted/biased reviews. Hence open forums such as OCN for real world opinions ... some bad? ... but mostly pretty reputable









I do want to clarify which model of Corsair SP120 fan you used? ... the rpm doesn't match the highest performing Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition [2350 RPM] @Static Pressure (mm/H2O): 3.1 mm/H2O [HERE] ... I think you used the Corsair Air Series AF120 Performance Edition [1650 RPM] @Static Pressure (mm/H2O): 1.1 mm/H2O [HERE} as the AF120's RPM matches what you have listed in your test results above? And certainly the SP120 HP would perform better if only 3-4c better.
I was also surprised to see the 38mm's outperforming the 120mm's on average of 7c ... because in my setup H100 in case top exhaust I only saw a 3-4c imporvement over the stock H100 120mm fans with my 38mm Delta's.BUT that could be explained by the H100 fans listed Static Pressure 7.7 mm/H2O/2500rpm and the improved heat block/pump and radiator over the H70? It would also have been interesting to see your results in an OC'd (4.5GHz?) load test.

Lovin' your Avatar by the way







... +R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwl5apv*
> 
> One more question I have however is.....
> is there a difference between the sp performance ad sp quiet edition fans other than maximum rpm? meaning, (and i assume so) the sp120 performance fans move the same exact amount of air at 1650-1700rpm as the sp120 quiet edition fans move at max(1650-1700)rpm, correct? Dumb question, i know...


No problem your welcome ... There is a difference between the 2 fans you list above, especially in regards to their "Static Pressure" which is paramount to performance as "NotReadyYet" so aptly explained above. The Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition [Static Pressure (mm/H2O): 3.1 mm/H2O] will outperform the Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition [Static Pressure (mm/H2O): 1.29 mm/H2O] at the expence of "some"? (subjective) noise









If you trust listed specs if only for comparison you can go [HERE] and use the "Compare" button/feature









Again if you trust listed specs .... Another tip for finding a fans "static pressure", as many sites don't list them, google the fan model# followed by frozencpu ... that site historically has the most compltete quickly/easily attainable specs for static pressure?


----------



## NotReadyYet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Very Nice Response/Explanation ... You get your "Wings" back!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In all seriousness you and I are on the same page and I apologise for releasing to much "Chaff" ! The key misunderstanding here was that you're speaking from a purely performance perspective, hence no acustic levels considered, and I thought that might be a bit confusing for "mwl5apv", otherwise I completely agree with your "physics" lesson above. I also find real world results such as yours very helpful, as not all of us can afford the time ($$$?) to test multitudes of components/setups. Fanboy or NOT I think Corsair has done a pretty reputable job of engineering and matching components (fans) and all the average user has to go on is published specs and sometimes slanted/biased reviews. Hence open forums such as OCN for real world opinions ... some bad? ... but mostly pretty reputable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do want to clarify which model of Corsair SP120 fan you used? ... the rpm doesn't match the highest performing Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition [2350 RPM] @Static Pressure (mm/H2O): 3.1 mm/H2O [HERE] ... I think you used the Corsair Air Series AF120 Performance Edition [1650 RPM] @Static Pressure (mm/H2O): 1.1 mm/H2O [HERE} as the AF120's RPM matches what you have listed in your test results above? And certainly the SP120 HP would perform better if only 3-4c better.
> I was also surprised to see the 38mm's outperforming the 120mm's on average of 7c ... because in my setup H100 in case top exhaust I only saw a 3-4c imporvement over the stock H100 120mm fans with my 38mm Delta's.BUT that could be explained by the H100 fans listed Static Pressure 7.7 mm/H2O/2500rpm and the improved heat block/pump and radiator over the H70? It would also have been interesting to see your results in an OC'd (4.5GHz?) load test.
> Lovin' your Avatar by the way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... +R
> No problem your welcome ... There is a difference between the 2 fans you list above, especially in regards to their "Static Pressure" which is paramount to performance as "NotYetReady" so aptly explained above. The Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition [Static Pressure (mm/H2O): 3.1 mm/H2O] will outperform the Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition [Static Pressure (mm/H2O): 1.29 mm/H2O] at the expence of "some"? (subjective) noise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you trust listed specs if only for comparison you may find these side by side specs useful?
> C:\Users\Owner\Desktop\Corsair H100 fans\Newegg_com - Computer Parts, PC Components, Laptop Computers, LED LCD TV, Digital Cameras and more!_aspx.htm
> Again if you trust listed specs .... Another tip for finding a fans "static pressure", as many sites don't list them, google the fan model# followed by frozencpu ... that site historically has the most compltete quickly/easily attainable specs for static pressure?


Thanks!

My apologies pertaining to the Corsair fan, I must have been looking at the wrong part of my notes when I was typing that last night.

This is the Corsair fan I used in my test:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181026&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&AID=10446076&PID=4003003&SID=qcjtxq5io6qc

Otherwise, those temperatures I reported are accurate, and if I ever one day decide to redo this test I will be sure to check temps while my rig is OC'd









I was sort of expecting the 38's to perform better, but not that much better. Sadly, I did not use a Delta fan in any of my tests. Typically, Delta fans are meant for servers, so I just left them out of the equation.

Further, I am switching my thermal paste to the Indigo Extreme. Should be reviewing that as soon as I install it


----------



## mwl5apv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> No problem your welcome ... There is a difference between the 2 fans you list above, especially in regards to their "Static Pressure" which is paramount to performance as "NotReadyYet" so aptly explained above. The Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition [Static Pressure (mm/H2O): 3.1 mm/H2O] will outperform the Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition [Static Pressure (mm/H2O): 1.29 mm/H2O] at the expence of "some"? (subjective) noise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you trust listed specs if only for comparison you can go [HERE] and use the "Compare" button/feature
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again if you trust listed specs .... Another tip for finding a fans "static pressure", as many sites don't list them, google the fan model# followed by frozencpu ... that site historically has the most compltete quickly/easily attainable specs for static pressure?


at both of their respective maxes I understand the performance difference. But if i were to take one of each and run them both at lets say 1500rpm. they will perform the same correct?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NotReadyYet*
> 
> Thanks!
> My apologies pertaining to the Corsair fan, I must have been looking at the wrong part of my notes when I was typing that last night.
> This is the Corsair fan I used in my test:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181026&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&AID=10446076&PID=4003003&SID=qcjtxq5io6qc


Right on! keep the tech info coming







... couldn't find a fan on that link?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwl5apv*
> 
> at both of their respective maxes I understand the performance difference. But if i were to take one of each and run them both at lets say 1500rpm. they will perform the same correct?


Nope ... even at the same lowered rpm the "Static Pressure" performance will still be "relatively" the same when compared to each other i.e. 3.1 mm/H2O vs 1.29 mm/H2O ... and since your lowering the rpm (even less static pressure) I'd go with the higher performance Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition ... although to be honest in a real world setup/situation I'd bet you'd see no more than a 3-5c difference between the 2 in a WELL Ventilated case and maybe more or less depending on your overclock and your setup (exhaust or intake?) ... and the lower static pressure Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition fans may not even perform as well as the fans you have now, but I'm not sure of your current fans model/specs (stock H70?) ... *Mergatroid or NotReadyYet* would know as they both own H70's, but it can be confusing as some H70's were sold without stock fans. [HERE] is a pretty simple read further explaining static pressure vs CFM and why Static Pressure is more important when cooling radiators.


----------



## NotReadyYet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Right on! keep the tech info coming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... couldn't find a fan on that link?
> Nope ... even at the same lowered rpm the "Static Pressure" performance will still be "relatively" the same when compared to each other i.e. 3.1 mm/H2O vs 1.29 mm/H2O ... and since your lowering the rpm (even less static pressure) I'd go with the higher performance Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition ... although to be honest in a real world setup/situation I'd bet you'd see no more than a 3-5c difference between the 2 in a WELL Ventilated case and maybe more or less depending on your overclock and your setup (exhaust or intake?) ... and the lower static pressure Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition fans may not even perform as well as the fans you have now, but I'm not sure of your current fans model/specs (stock H70?) ... *Mergatroid or NotReadyYet* would know as they both own H70's, but it can be confusing as some H70's were sold without stock fans. [HERE] is a pretty simple read further explaining static pressure vs CFM and why Static Pressure is more important when cooling radiators.


This fan:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181026

Sorry about that.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NotReadyYet*
> 
> This fan:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181026
> Sorry about that.


Well that shoots my theory all to heck at least with your H70 setup ... that's the best Corsair has to offer except the older H100 stock fans, and I thought they would perform at least slightly better than the other 120mm's


----------



## NotReadyYet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Well that shoots my theory all to heck at least with your H70 setup ... that's the best Corsair has to offer except the older H100 stock fans, and I thought they would perform at least slightly better than the other 120mm's


Yeah, the specs they provided, at least static pressure wise, should of out performed my Gelid Solutions Wing fans, but they didn't. That's why I said in my original post that they misrepresented their stats, because on paper it should have destroyed my gelid fan.

I eventually settled on the wing fans because of their ability to detach the fan blades from the fan unit itself. So much easier to clean and maintain that way. Also their nano flux bearing is second to none, oh and the color is cool too lol.


----------



## Bart

There's some damn good info in here! First time H100 user here, and I came looking for a lesson on static pressure / replacement fans for the H100. I got more than I bargained for! Nice work on those tests NotReadyYet! +rep! After reading the specs on the fans that came with the H100, I'm not seeing many quiet alternatives to the stock rocket engines. Don't much like the noise at full load, but since I can't fit 38mm fans, there don't seem to be many low DBA / high SP alternatives. Then again, I didn't read the entire 2146 pages either.


----------



## CSCoder4ever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> There's some damn good info in here! First time H100 user here, and I came looking for a lesson on static pressure / replacement fans for the H100. I got more than I bargained for! Nice work on those tests NotReadyYet! +rep! After reading the specs on the fans that came with the H100, I'm not seeing many quiet alternatives to the stock rocket engines. Don't much like the noise at full load, but since I can't fit 38mm fans, there don't seem to be many low DBA / high SP alternatives. Then again, I didn't read the entire 2146 pages either.


Good thing you got your h100 working! and I didn't read the entire thread either, I only started posting here several pages ago lol


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwl5apv*
> 
> I have an H70 in my system at the moment, and I was looking to possibly swap out the corsair fans that came stock with this cooler.
> while reading through the site I keep running into gentle typhoons being at or near the top of good yet quiet radiator fans. My question is, I was looking at either the cooler master excalibur fans or the newer corsair fans.( the SP and AF series) what is the difference between the two? and which one would perform better on the radiator of the original H70 while being a bit quieter than the stock fans?


If you're using an H70 connected stock then your fans are running at 100% all the time. That is pretty loud. The GTs are pretty much one of the best fans you can get for noise/performance, but there are other choices now. Yate Loons are also exceptional fans for noise vs performance, and the new Corsair fans for the H80 and H100 should work great on an H70. The SP fans from Corsair are also good quiet fans, but if you can order H80/100 fans then go for them because Corsair says they are based on the SP fans but are a little better.

For the H70 there is one other choice you should be aware of. If you are not using a fan controller, you could purchase some PWM fans. These fans can be controlled by your motherboard which will allow them to be very quiet when under small load and only be loud when under maximum load.

If you go for this option, you will need either 1: Two CPU_FAN headers on your motherboard (most motherboards don't have that), or 2: a PWM splitter to allow you to run two fans from one CPU_FAN header.

That was the one drawback to the H70. It had no fan control at all, and all you could do with it is add the resistor wires that came with the early units to reduce the RPMs and noise, or connect it to a fan controller, or do the PWM suggestion.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCEnthusiast85*
> 
> woah killer, lets not get snappy. im not trying to start a fight. like i stated before i use the corsair kits aswell...why? not cuz of the warranty and not because i think they are better....i just am. i have everything else corsair in most of my systems. im not knocking the product at all. its solid. the corsair link system is cool if you got the money to drop on it ( i personally think its to pricey) which is why i made the statement previously.
> You are correct in that Coolit does make the new square pumps. Im using the circle pumps that are made by Asetek that corsair used for a short time. Both of these systems are identical, Asetek is even trying to file lawsuits against coolit over the production of these (i seriously hope this doesnt happen...) micro channels and aesthetics aside they are pretty much the same pumps and circuits.
> i can go on if you would like but ive done my research and it sounds like you need to do some of your own.
> the corsair SP fans are fantastic imo and i really like the color rings.


Actually, I wasn't trying to get "snappy", I was asking for clarification. Next time I will use a smiley face so no offense will be perceived. I'm just stating that the warranty is valid, and not just a piece of paper to get you to purchase their product.

How can you say the square pump and round pump are identical? Have you taken them apart? I would need to see some evidence before I would just blindly accept that as a fact. You can't say "micro channels aside" because that is one of the major differences (that's like saying Macs and PCs are identical, operating system aside, when the major difference between them _is_ the operating system). These channels change the surface area the coolant flows over, and so make a difference. You can see a temperature difference between the H70 (round pump) and the H80 (square pump), while the hoses and radiators were identical. Therefor, the pump/blocks cannot be the same (otherwise they would get the same temps).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NotReadyYet*
> 
> Forget corsair fans or the cooler master ones. Their CFM and static pressure are not what they rate then to be. If you want better temps by swapping fans you will need a fan with great static pressure which is basically any 120x38 fan.
> Remember, RPM and CFM mean nothing if the static pressure sucks, otherwise the air isn't being directed anywhere.


Actually, he's looking for less noise, not more performance.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Posted that already on page 2142
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a nice little cooler. I'm not seeing much of a temperature difference between this and my old Intel liquid cooler. I'm using the pre-applied TIM, and my 2500k idles at 30c. Maybe I'll see a decrease if I re-seat it with some better stuff. Overall, I'm pleased with the performance and more so with the aesthetics


I would have expected a difference of about 3c between the Intel liquid cooler and the H80. What did you find?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NotReadyYet*
> 
> Fan manufacturers typically misrepresent their specifications since they rate their fans under ideal (read: their) preset conditions. For example; in a temperature controlled environment, at sea level (where the air is thicker), in the open air (without being inside a rig), with 0% humidity, not measuring static pressure under water, ect,. Indeed, very few manufacturers provide performance curve diagrams with any of their fan marketing materials. This should immediately signal red flags to you. In order to enlighten you and the rest of this forum allow me to provide facts backing up my claim in so much regarding the performance of a 25mm vs. 38mm fan.
> But in order to get started we must define what exactly static pressure is, and why it should trump any other spec when shopping around for a fan to hook up to a radiator:
> Static Pressure is merely measured air pressure. Higher static pressure means the fan can output air that can more easily overcome the resistance to airflow. High pressure fans are especially ideal for fans installed on heat sinks or radiators, since the air will be forced through the fins and heat pipes more easily.1
> Although difficult to find authentic tests around the internet which are trust worthy you can interpret whatever the gentleman in this link summed up. He reported his results of the 25mm vs. 38mm showdown very eloquently, and scientifically.
> Regarding your other point, I never inferred that their fans will under perform as is, just that you aren't getting the most out of your set up by going with their provided fans, but I will take it a step further than that.
> As a fan fanatic, I have tested over 30 different types of fans in my rig. It cost a lot of time and money, but was worth it since I didn't want a custom water cooled setup. Besides, I love the idea of cutting off every little degree of heat from my case.
> All of my tests were performed under the same circumstances; the temperature of my room was set to a constant 72F, when the test was finished, I shut my rig down and left, allowing the room to cool off since running Prime95 would throw off my results. This was measured using a thermal thermometer. Nothing else was on or drawing electricity in my room.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *Test Bench*
> Case: Antec Lanboy Air
> CPU: Intel i7 2600k @ stock speed/volts
> Memory: Mushkin Redline PC17000 4x4GB
> GPU: MSI Radeon 6850 Power Edition
> Mobo: ASRock Z68 Pro Gen3 Fatal1ty
> Cooling: Corsair H70 (push/pull)
> Thermal Paste: Tuniq TX-3 Extreme
> PSU: Seasonic 750x Gold
> SSD: Crucial M4
> OS: Windows 7 Pro 64
> *Test Conditions*
> The computer was set on a table in the middle of my 15ft x 15ft room, it was then booted up and allowed to sit for 10 minutes before I measure the temperature using RealTemp. Then, I ran Prime95 for 10 minutes and pulled the temperatures from RealTemp. I added up all the core temperatures and averaged them to get the temperatures in my results below. I did not measure acoustic levels since I wear noise isolating headphones while using my rig.
> Here are the settings I used for Prime95.
> 
> Here are just some of my results:
> *Gelid Solutions 120 x 25 Gamer Wing Fan*
> Max RPMs: 1800
> CPU (idle): 22C
> CPU (load): 50C
> *Scythe "GentleTyphoon" 120 x 25 Silent Case Fan*
> Max RPMs: 1800
> CPU (idle): 24C
> CPU (load) 52C
> *Panaflow 120 x 38 Ultra High speed Fan*
> Max RPMs: 2750
> CPU (idle): 17C
> CPU (load): 45C
> *Corsair Air Series 120 x 25 "SP" Fan*
> Max RPMs: 1650
> CPU (idle): 23C
> CPU (load): 52C
> *Antec "Tricool" 120 x 25 Fan*
> Max RPMs: 2000
> CPU (idle): 22C
> CPU (load): 51C
> *Scythe "ULTRA KAZE" 120 x 38 Fan*
> Max RPMs: 3000
> CPU (idle): 17C
> CPU (load): 45C
> *Cougar Vortex 120 x 25 Fan*
> Max RPMs: 1500
> CPU (idle): 23C
> CPU (load): 51C
> As you can clearly see all 120 x 38 fans blew away the 120 x 25 fans by a fair margin. Of course these results are specific to my setup and should not be considered canon. I do not doubt, however, that anyone who uses a 38mm fan against a 25mm fan would yield results where the 25 fan trumped the 38. Of course, fan companies can claim that the shapes of their fan blades, the addition of winglets, ect., can help improve static pressure; but what none of those features add is surface area, which a 120 x 25 fan cannot pull out of thin air against a 120 x 38 fan.
> In any event, I think you misjudged what I was getting at by trying to flame me with your clever, but disparaging narrative. I'm not insulting fan boys, I'm merely trying to help others who want to get the most out of their Corsair cooling systems.


Wow, this is really not the place that needs a lesson in what static pressure is. No one ever said 38mm fans don't perform well. They are noisy, and you don't need them to still get good performance from a rad. In fact, I bet on this site full of enthusiasts you'll get less than 10% of the members using 38mm fans. They are noisy, big and overkill for closed loop water coolers. I object to you claiming that fan manufacturers are misrepresenting their static pressure because of the testing conditions. Most manufacturers test their products under ideal conditions, and I don't see why fan manufacturers should be any different. Also, considering the entire point of this discussion is noise, and considering you didn't even test noise by your own admission, I don't see how your results are relevant at all. I fail to see why you are even performing tests between 38mm fans and 25mm fans as the results are obvious, that 38mm fans out perform 25mm fans for pure performance.

As for the stock H80/100 Corsair fans, if you read through the thread you would find many people have tested them, and linked to other sites where they were also tested, and the results have always been that, for a 25mm fan, the stock H80/100 Corsair fans out perform most popular 120mm fans by at least one or two c, but are very noisy. So, people looking for quieter fans (which is what mwl5apv is looking for) are not going to be purchasing 38mm fans which are generally noisier than 25mm fans.

Note that the specs for your Corsair fans, and the actual specs listed on Corsair's website and at the link you provided, are different. You have them listed as running at 1650 RPM, while the fan you linked to at http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181026 is a 2350 RPM fan, and the lowest performer (the "Quiet Edition" fan) is 1450 RPM. This tidbit throws your entire comparison into doubt.

In this particular case, we're discussing an H70. The H70 fans are not as good as the H80/100 fans and not as good as the newest generation of fans from Corsair (the high performance version) for performance vs noise. Having said that, he is looking for quieter fans, which can be found with Scythe GTs, Yate Loons, or the new Corsair SP fans without sacrificing much performance (if any) compared to the H70 stock fans. Remember that the H70, in a stock configuration, has no fan control, and so the fans are running at 100% all the time (or about 70% if the cable resistors are used) which would be 2350 RPM for the Corsair SP Performance fans. (see specs copied from Corsair below). If you were running them at 1650, you were running them too slow for their maximum performance which would explain your results.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwl5apv*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for the awesome response! 3-pin fans will work perfectly fine(I should have mentioned that) as I will either control/set the speed via BIOS or a fan controller. I was leaning towards the corsair fans but was not sure. Ive tried doing a lot of reading around to see what the general population though of them and how they faired on a radiator and compared to other similarly priced counterparts. The micro center near me has the corsair sp series fans. Their twin pack is priced at but they price match newegg on a daily basis.
> http://www.microcenter.com/product/389219/Air_Series_SP120_High_Performance_Edition_120mm_Case_Fan_-_Twin_Pack
> Seems that more I read the more i lean towards corsair. I might bite the bullet and give them a try. Thanks again for the reply!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ *NotReadyYet*... your post helped out quite a bit as well. With your results, it seems that the corsair fans yielded the same results as the GT's but at a lower rpm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more question I have however is.....
> is there a difference between the sp performance ad sp quiet edition fans other than maximum rpm? meaning, (and i assume so) the sp120 performance fans move the same exact amount of air at 1650-1700rpm as the sp120 quiet edition fans move at max(1650-1700)rpm, correct? Dumb question, i know...


The SP Performance have a higher static pressure than the Quiet edition fans.

SP120 High Performance Edition VS SP120 Quiet Edition
Size 120mm x 25mm
Operating Voltage 7V - 12V
Performance at 12V
Airflow 62.74 CFM, 37.85 CFM
Static Pressure 3.1 mm/H20, 1.29 mm/H20
Sound Level, 35 dBA, 23 dBA
Speed, 2350 RPM, 1450 RPM
Power Draw, 0.18 A, 0.08 A


----------



## NotReadyYet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> There's some damn good info in here! First time H100 user here, and I came looking for a lesson on static pressure / replacement fans for the H100. I got more than I bargained for! Nice work on those tests NotReadyYet! +rep! After reading the specs on the fans that came with the H100, I'm not seeing many quiet alternatives to the stock rocket engines. Don't much like the noise at full load, but since I can't fit 38mm fans, there don't seem to be many low DBA / high SP alternatives. Then again, I didn't read the entire 2146 pages either.


My pleasure.

Try these fans:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553002

http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/acc/051/d1225c12b1ap_detail.html

http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=1&cid=2&id=35


----------



## NotReadyYet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> If you're using an H70 connected stock then your fans are running at 100% all the time. That is pretty loud. The GTs are pretty much one of the best fans you can get for noise/performance, but there are other choices now. Yate Loons are also exceptional fans for noise vs performance, and the new Corsair fans for the H80 and H100 should work great on an H70. The SP fans from Corsair are also good quiet fans, but if you can order H80/100 fans then go for them because Corsair says they are based on the SP fans but are a little better.
> For the H70 there is one other choice you should be aware of. If you are not using a fan controller, you could purchase some PWM fans. These fans can be controlled by your motherboard which will allow them to be very quiet when under small load and only be loud when under maximum load.
> If you go for this option, you will need either 1: Two CPU_FAN headers on your motherboard (most motherboards don't have that), or 2: a PWM splitter to allow you to run two fans from one CPU_FAN header.
> That was the one drawback to the H70. It had no fan control at all, and all you could do with it is add the resistor wires that came with the early units to reduce the RPMs and noise, or connect it to a fan controller, or do the PWM suggestion.
> Actually, I wasn't trying to get "snappy", I was asking for clarification. Next time I will use a smiley face so no offense will be perceived. I'm just stating that the warranty is valid, and not just a piece of paper to get you to purchase their product.
> How can you say the square pump and round pump are identical? Have you taken them apart? I would need to see some evidence before I would just blindly accept that as a fact. You can't say "micro channels aside" because that is one of the major differences (that's like saying Macs and PCs are identical, operating system aside, when the major difference between them _is_ the operating system). These channels change the surface area the coolant flows over, and so make a difference. You can see a temperature difference between the H70 (round pump) and the H80 (square pump), while the hoses and radiators were identical. Therefor, the pump/blocks cannot be the same (otherwise they would get the same temps).
> Actually, he's looking for less noise, not more performance.
> I would have expected a difference of about 3c between the Intel liquid cooler and the H80. What did you find?
> [/SPOILER]
> Wow, this is really not the place that needs a lesson in what static pressure is. No one ever said 38mm fans don't perform well. They are noisy, and you don't need them to still get good performance from a rad. In fact, I bet on this site full of enthusiasts you'll get less than 10% of the members using 38mm fans. They are noisy, big and overkill for closed loop water coolers. I object to you claiming that fan manufacturers are misrepresenting their static pressure because of the testing conditions. Most manufacturers test their products under ideal conditions, and I don't see why fan manufacturers should be any different. Also, considering the entire point of this discussion is noise, and considering you didn't even test noise by your own admission, I don't see how your results are relevant at all. I fail to see why you are even performing tests between 38mm fans and 25mm fans as the results are obvious, that 38mm fans out perform 25mm fans for pure performance.
> As for the stock H80/100 Corsair fans, if you read through the thread you would find many people have tested them, and linked to other sites where they were also tested, and the results have always been that, for a 25mm fan, the stock H80/100 Corsair fans out perform most popular 120mm fans by at least one or two c, but are very noisy. So, people looking for quieter fans (which is what mwl5apv is looking for) are not going to be purchasing 38mm fans which are generally noisier than 25mm fans.
> Note that the specs for your Corsair fans, and the actual specs listed on Corsair's website and at the link you provided, are different. You have them listed as running at 1650 RPM, while the fan you linked to at http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181026 is a 2350 RPM fan, and the lowest performer (the "Quiet Edition" fan) is 1450 RPM. This tidbit throws your entire comparison into doubt.
> In this particular case, we're discussing an H70. The H70 fans are not as good as the H80/100 fans and not as good as the newest generation of fans from Corsair (the high performance version) for performance vs noise. Having said that, he is looking for quieter fans, which can be found with Scythe GTs, Yate Loons, or the new Corsair SP fans without sacrificing much performance (if any) compared to the H70 stock fans. Remember that the H70, in a stock configuration, has no fan control, and so the fans are running at 100% all the time (or about 70% if the cable resistors are used) which would be 2350 RPM for the Corsair SP Performance fans. (see specs copied from Corsair below). If you were running them at 1650, you were running them too slow for their maximum performance which would explain your results.
> The SP Performance have a higher static pressure than the Quiet edition fans.
> SP120 High Performance Edition VS SP120 Quiet Edition
> Size 120mm x 25mm
> Operating Voltage 7V - 12V
> Performance at 12V
> Airflow 62.74 CFM, 37.85 CFM
> Static Pressure 3.1 mm/H20, 1.29 mm/H20
> Sound Level, 35 dBA, 23 dBA
> Speed, 2350 RPM, 1450 RPM
> Power Draw, 0.18 A, 0.08 A


1) I was not only comparing 25 by 38 fans to see which would run better (isnt that obvious?). I was testing a wide variety of fans for my own satisfaction since like I said I am a bit of a fan fanatic.

2) The RPMs of the Corsair fans I initially listed were off. As I stated in a later post, I miscopied what I had in my notes. It's called a mistake, ever hear of it?

3) My results are relevant to whoever searches Google, this forum, or reads this thread. Some people don't care about noise and my notes should help guide them.

No good deed goes unpunished. I'm sorry I even shared my results with this thread.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NotReadyYet*
> 
> 1) I was not only comparing 25 by 38 fans to see which would run better (isnt that obvious?). I was testing a wide variety of fans for my own satisfaction since like I said I am a bit of a fan fanatic.
> 2) The RPMs of the Corsair fans I initially listed were off. As I stated in a later post, I miscopied what I had in my notes. It's called a mistake, ever hear of it?
> 3) My results are relevant to whoever searches Google, this forum, or reads this thread. Some people don't care about noise and my notes should help guide them.
> No good deed goes unpunished. *I'm sorry I even shared my results with this thread.*


DON'T BE!! That was a great post, and VERY valid in this thread. Ignore the fool who said this "wasn't the place for a lesson in static pressure". Like HELL it ISN'T!! Some of us came here looking for EXACTLY that, as should ANY person new to the hydro series / rads / static pressure effects. Some of us who've been OCing on air forever had no idea what static pressure even WAS since we have no experience with water cooling. Anyone new to rads / water will want to know about this stuff. Don't let stuck-up condescending morons tell YOU what to post! Those morons never help anyone out like you do. Guys like you make forums awesome, so you keep right on doing what you're doing!!


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NotReadyYet*
> 
> My pleasure.
> Try these fans:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553002
> http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/acc/051/d1225c12b1ap_detail.html
> http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=1&cid=2&id=35


Thanks again! But looking at the stats of the stock H100 fans, the stock ones have an SP of 7.7 (at full blast). Those fans seem to make out at less than 3. Will using lower SP fans like that drastically reduce the cooling capability of the H100? I was hoping to find a fan that had similar stats at less dba, but maybe I'm hoping for a fantasy that doesn't exist.


----------



## NotReadyYet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Thanks again! But looking at the stats of the stock H100 fans, the stock ones have an SP of 7.7 (at full blast). Those fans seem to make out at less than 3. Will using lower SP fans like that drastically reduce the cooling capability of the H100? I was hoping to find a fan that had similar stats at less dba, but maybe I'm hoping for a fantasy that doesn't exist.


Thanks for your kind words from your previous post









Honestly, I wouldnt go by the stats they have listed. My Gelid Solutions fans were rated at 2.66 SP but still beat out other 120x25 fans with much higher reported static pressure. Besides, fans are cheap enough where if you dont like the results you can either return it, or sell it on Amazon to recoup your funds.


----------



## dusters16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> DON'T BE!! That was a great post, and VERY valid in this thread. Ignore the fool who said this "wasn't the place for a lesson in static pressure". Like HELL it ISN'T!! Some of us came here looking for EXACTLY that, as should ANY person new to the hydro series / rads / static pressure effects. Some of us who've been OCing on air forever had no idea what static pressure even WAS since we have no experience with water cooling. Anyone new to rads / water will want to know about this stuff. Don't let stuck-up condescending morons tell YOU what to post! Those morons never help anyone out like you do. Guys like you make forums awesome, so you keep right on doing what you're doing!!


Dude, +1 on that! I actually read his entire write up on the fans and i actually learned something. Just because one person might already know the answer doesn't mean everyone else does. Good to see people still putting in awesome informational posts in threads. Haha unlike this one.


----------



## mwl5apv

Sorry for being kinda quiet for a bit....been busy with work. Anyway, on topic with my fan situation.

I decided to bite the bullet and pick up a pair of the Corsair SP120 Performance fans to replace the stock corsair H70 fans I had. Upon first thought, the fans just seem and feel like high quality units. From the weight of the fan to how smoothly it spins with the flick of a finger, down to just the aesthetics overall, Seeing and holding these things in person I was intrigued.

So went ahead and swapped the fans out and I have to say I am impressed. These fans at 100% rpm are quieter than the corsair H70 fans at 100% for sure. In fact, these SP120's at 100% were only slightly louder than the corsair H70 fans at 70%. Yes, you read that right.

Running at 70%(which comes out to be about 1500-1600rpm) the corsair SP120's are nearly silent on the H70 rad. I am honestly amazed at how quiet these things are. And they cool the same if not better than the H70 fans(now keep in mind I re-seated the pump and got some fresh AC5 on the cpu, so it'll be a week or so before it cures and i get temps i can compare for real)

These corsair SP120 fans are awesome, And i highly recommend them to anyone that needs rad fans. the noise/performance seems great, and is exactly what I was looking for.

All of you guys that responded to my questions, Thanks! I already gave you guys +rep.


----------



## OverClocker55

*Going to fixing up the page. Adding I series and much more.*


----------



## trendy

Out of curiosity, has anyone done any flow rate/head testing on the pump that comes with the hydro series?


----------



## OverClocker55

*Update:*
*Please everyone read!*
A new form and owners list has been created for the New Series owners ( H60i,H80i,H100i )
If your a owner of the New Series please fill out this form --> Click Here
*Owners List Of New Series:* --> Click Here'

If anything is messed up or wrong feel free to contact me!
*Updated*

 Official Corsair Hydro Series Club 

Code:



Code:


[URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/612436/official-corsair-hydro-series-club] :Snorkle: Official Corsair Hydro Series Club :Snorkle: [/URL]


----------



## OverClocker55

*Update V2:*
*Popular Fans List*
*Because I don't own this spreadsheet we can no longer add. Still view the list. I'll be making a new one for people to add to.*
Big thanks to Sethy who originally started this one, a good resource for anyone looking to upgrade their stock fans. As with the other community pages, please add fans that you feel deserve a mention. Click "Edit This Page" at the bottom of the spreadsheet.
Click HereNo Longer Works. You can view. No adding.
*So add the fans using this form:* Click Here
Fans List #2 ( Can Add )


----------



## Erick Silver

Hey. Long time since I was here or posted. Here's my setup in Red Steel:



Corsair H60 with Rad set to intake with 2x 120MM Cooler Master R4 Red LED Fans. Full load temps are 55*c Ambient is 22*c


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Thanks again! But looking at the stats of the stock H100 fans, the stock ones have an SP of 7.7 (at full blast). Those fans seem to make out at less than 3. Will using lower SP fans like that drastically reduce the cooling capability of the H100? I was hoping to find a fan that had similar stats at less dba, but maybe I'm hoping for a fantasy that doesn't exist.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> There's some damn good info in here! First time H100 user here, and I came looking for a lesson on static pressure / replacement fans for the H100. I got more than I bargained for!


Hey Bart welcome ... you don't need to read all 2000+ pages but the search feature does work quite well within this thread. When I 1st purchased an H100 10/11 I began reading the whole thread, and there are some pretty knowledgeable guys still hanging out here! I'm pretty familiar with all the info posted since the H100 came out. Tell us a little more about your setup, ie. Type of case/top exhaust or intake? Can you run push/pull setup? is your 3820 OC'd? Do you run heavy loaded apps like "Folding" for extended periods? Are your stock H100 fans controlled through the Corsair controller? Reason I ask is do you find the "Low" setting not adequate? My OC'd/P95 runs see only a 3-4c rise in temps between Low(1500rpm/SP3mm/H2O guess?) vs High(2500rpm/SP 7.7 mm/H2O) setting and signifigant noise reduction on low with my Top exhaust/bastardized push/pull with a CM 200mm fan on top doing the pulling. Several other guys with CM/HAF cases have had great results with this setup saving on the additional 2 fans for push/pull cause the 200mm was already there









AND after reading "mwl5apv" "Noise Report" (above) I'll stick with my original recommendations earlier that the Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition "twin pack" is your best bet for compatability(Corsair Controller) / Performance / Aesthetics / and even dollar$$$ value unless you want to go for a push/pull (4x120mm fans) in witch case you could look at the dirt cheap but decent performing Yate Loon 120x20 (D12SM-12C) Medium Speed Silent ($4-$5 ea) Ceadderman uses on his custom loop rads ... You can read in many earlier posts that $50-$80 for 4 high quality fans for a push/pull setup is just overkill for the average OC/Use giving the H100's pump and radiator limitations. ...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwl5apv*
> 
> Sorry for being kinda quiet for a bit....been busy with work. Anyway, on topic with my fan situation.
> I decided to bite the bullet and pick up a pair of the Corsair SP120 Performance fans to replace the stock corsair H70 fans I had. Upon first thought, the fans just seem and feel like high quality units. From the weight of the fan to how smoothly it spins with the flick of a finger, down to just the aesthetics overall, Seeing and holding these things in person I was intrigued.
> So went ahead and swapped the fans out and I have to say I am impressed. These fans at 100% rpm are quieter than the corsair H70 fans at 100% for sure. In fact, these SP120's at 100% were only slightly louder than the corsair H70 fans at 70%. Yes, you read that right.
> Running at 70%(which comes out to be about 1500-1600rpm) the corsair SP120's are nearly silent on the H70 rad. I am honestly amazed at how quiet these things are. And they cool the same if not better than the H70 fans(now keep in mind I re-seated the pump and got some fresh AC5 on the cpu, so it'll be a week or so before it cures and i get temps i can compare for real)
> These corsair SP120 fans are awesome, And i highly recommend them to anyone that needs rad fans. the noise/performance seems great, and is exactly what I was looking for.
> All of you guys that responded to my questions, Thanks! I already gave you guys +rep.


Awesome ... if you have the time can you give us some comparison stats/temps between your old/new setups? Preferably OC'd / P95 blend 20-30min run and don't forget your ambients









@*OverClocker55* nice work with the updates! ... ONE suggestion though, I'd dedicate a specific column to Static Pressure X.Xmm/H2O instead of "Hoping" someone will list it in the comments section. IMHO "Static Pressure" is probably the most important statistic for a fans ability to cool a radiator and would be quite useful for this thread ... even if some don't fully trust published stats


----------



## OverClocker55

Alright! I'm out right now on mobile. I'll make one when I'm home!


----------



## Tonza

Getting friday Accelero Xtreme to my 7970 along with H100i to my CPU. One question, would it be better put fans on H100i to top as intake or to bottom as exhaust. Have in front modded Air Penetrator 180mm as intake, and in back there is Gentle typhoon 1150rpm as exhaust. Case is Corsair 650D.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonza*
> 
> Getting friday Accelero Xtreme to my 7970 along with H100i to my CPU. One question, would it be better put fans on H100i on top to suck cold air in or to bottom to blow up?. Have in front modded Air Penetrator 180mm, and in back there is Gentle typhoon 1150rpm as exhaust. Case is Corsair 650D.


Try and fit a push pull pulling air from top and in exhausting from the back 120. In the case that you can't fit 2 fans have them suck air from outside and the 120 exhaust.


----------



## Tonza

Push and pull is not gonna work, Asrock P67 Extreme 4 heatsinks are on the way. Gonna use just the 2 fans.


----------



## Solders18

I have two fans on top in pull exhausting out for 2 reasons:
1) my front fan(only intake) has a filter on it, so less dust to clog up the rad
2) the heat gets exhausted out rather than onto the already hot VRM's


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> I have two fans on top in pull exhausting out for 2 reasons:
> 1) my front fan(only intake) has a filter on it, so less dust to clog up the rad
> 2) the heat gets exhausted out rather than onto the already hot VRM's


That is true but do VRM's really get that hot? I never worry about mine.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> I have two fans on top in pull exhausting out for 2 reasons:
> 1) my front fan(only intake) has a filter on it, so less dust to clog up the rad
> 2) the heat gets exhausted out rather than onto the already hot VRM's
> 
> 
> 
> That is true but do VRM's really get that hot? I never worry about mine.
Click to expand...

With an oc'd 8350 they are getting warm. Would rather not help them out


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> *Update:*
> *Please everyone read!*
> A new form and owners list has been created for the New Series owners ( H60i,H80i,H100i )
> If your a owner of the New Series please fill out this form --> Click Here
> *Owners List Of New Series:* --> Click Here'
> If anything is messed up or wrong feel free to contact me!
> *Updated*
> Official Corsair Hydro Series Club
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> :Snorkle: Official Corsair Hydro Series Club :Snorkle:


The code doesnt put in the URL. It just shows the club as blue. However, when quoting this post, I just copied the HTML code for the link and it displays correctly.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> The code doesnt put in the URL. It just shows the club as blue. However, when quoting this post, I just copied the HTML code for the link and it displays correctly.


Will Fix!


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Will Fix!


Updated.


----------



## OverClocker55

As some of the users suggested they want a static air pressure list. Its now required when adding new fans.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NotReadyYet*
> 
> .
> No good deed goes unpunished. I'm sorry I even shared my results with this thread.


I can't believe how touchy people have been getting around here lately. Excuse me for pointing out an obvious mistake and expressing my opinion on great fans for noise vs performance, which is exactly what was being asked about in the first place.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> DON'T BE!! That was a great post, and VERY valid in this thread. Ignore the fool who said this "wasn't the place for a lesson in static pressure". Like HELL it ISN'T!! Some of us came here looking for EXACTLY that, as should ANY person new to the hydro series / rads / static pressure effects. Some of us who've been OCing on air forever had no idea what static pressure even WAS since we have no experience with water cooling. Anyone new to rads / water will want to know about this stuff. Don't let stuck-up condescending morons tell YOU what to post! Those morons never help anyone out like you do. Guys like you make forums awesome, so you keep right on doing what you're doing!!


I don't want to pull down this thread, but the fact is I've been building systems and dealing with computers for over 20 years (closer to 30 years). If you want to look for a "fool" or someone who's "stuck up and condescending" go and look in a mirror since that is how I look on people who resort to name calling in forums. I usually assume those people can't put together a decent argument and so resort to such things.

How can you have been ocing on air "forever" and not know what static pressure is? And you call _me_ a fool (and no, I'm not calling you one, just pointing out your choice of words in your last post)? You can always just Google what specifications mean.









By the way, there is an edit button, so you don't have to post multiple times in a row. No, using the lower sp fans will not "drastically" reduce the performance of the H100, depending on your definition of "drastic". Most likely 2 or 3c, depending on the fan and just how much of a difference in SP they have. However, if you can handle the noise, the stock fans are excellent fans. There are a few fan comparisons in the thread that specifically test or link to tests of the stock H100 fans. Unfortunately I have not bookmarked them. The H70 fans are also not bad, but I found them even noisier than the H80/100 fans.

Here is a great fan testing thread found by Cedderman:

http://www.overclock.net/t/859483/round-6-fan-testing-working-thread

They specifically test for performance vs noise, and specifically for rad fans. Check it out.


----------



## Bart

Mergatroid: I did sound a bit harsh (my bad). I meant that to be more tongue-in-cheek than it came across. Apologies. But you did come across really snide.







For the record, I understand airflow in CFM terms, but static pressure was never a stat I looked at when buying fans for air coolers. Just high CFM, low noise, HQ. But I also tend to buy decent gear, and don't push the envelope like the average user here does, therefore don't know near enough about cooling since I usually have decent temps "out of the box". If I was crazy like you guys, I would have learned all about this years ago. The itch came late.

Thanks for the info BTW, and sorry for dragging this thread down!

EDIT: one other thing - I couldn't edit or multi-quote from work since we're javascript-handicapped.


----------



## Solders18

yay! everyone is happy again!


----------



## Mergatroid

Sorry if I seemed "snide", I didn't intend to.


----------



## OverClocker55

*Guys and Gals*
If you don't want to put static pressure in ( I don't use it







) then just leave a 'None' or something. Its really up to you guys!


----------



## kim jong so ill

Corsair H80i on sale @ Newegg.
$89.99 with promo code EMCJJHA27
$74.99 after MIB

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181031&nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL112912&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL112912-_-EMC-112912-Index-_-WaterCooling-_-35181031-L02B

Hope to see some new owners


----------



## _TRU_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Corsair H80i on sale @ Newegg.
> $89.99 with promo code EMCJJHA27
> $74.99 after MIB
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181031&nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL112912&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL112912-_-EMC-112912-Index-_-WaterCooling-_-35181031-L02B
> Hope to see some new owners


I got the h60i deal. Waiting for a deal on the 100i. Kinda upset with the egg ATM. My order has been showing as *packaging* for nearly 2 days. That must be some packaging job.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_TRU_*
> 
> I got the h60i deal. Waiting for a deal on the 100i. Kinda upset with the egg ATM. My order has been showing as *packaging* for nearly 2 days. That must be some packaging job.


You should add yourself to the list


----------



## Raiden911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_TRU_*
> 
> I got the h60i deal. Waiting for a deal on the 100i. Kinda upset with the egg ATM. My order has been showing as *packaging* for nearly 2 days. That must be some packaging job.


same here, when I ordered the 200r case, it was shipped out the next day. I figure they must not have it instock or something. probably newegg is waiting for the shipment to arrive or something. ugh!
Its cool, not in a rush since I havent ordered the bracket yet.

I am just going to use the h60i just for my HD7970. I just can't stand the hot exhaust burning me legs and fan noise.


----------



## inertianinja

Question for anyone with the H80i:

I am thinking of adding this to a very small case - the 120mm fan that is currently there (120x120x25) has just almost ZERO clearance on the side closest to the motherboard. I understand that the radiator adds about 16mm on either side of the fan. That's probably fine, but any wider and i'm screwed.

The specs on the H80i say that both the Fan and the Radiator are 120mm wide. can anyone confirm this for me - that the radiator isn't any wider than the fan?


----------



## Mergatroid

H80i:

Radiator dimensions: 120mm x 152mm x 38mm

http://www.corsair.com/us/cpu-cooling-kits/hydro-series-water-cooling-cpu-cooler/hydro-series-h80i-high-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler.html


----------



## OverClocker55

So I'll be getting an H80i. Might be giving away my H60


----------



## Solders18

I built a friends 8350/saber/gtx 670/H100i computer today and i gotta say i was IMPRESSED by the new i's. the software was very cool too see all the specs and to be able to change the corsair LED on the block. i didn't get to mess around with it too much but the stock fans were making a terrible rattling noise so we updated the firmware (fan rattle fix) and wow what a difference in sound. before i wasn't even considering upgrading but now its definitely in my mind. the only draw back was that i didn't like the new hoses. they seemed too big and too resistive to bend even just to where the cpu was


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> I built a friends 8350/saber/gtx 670/H100i computer today and i gotta say i was IMPRESSED by the new i's. the software was very cool too see all the specs and to be able to change the corsair LED on the block. i didn't get to mess around with it too much but the stock fans were making a terrible rattling noise so we updated the firmware (fan rattle fix) and wow what a difference in sound. before i wasn't even considering upgrading but now its definitely in my mind. the only draw back was that i didn't like the new hoses. they seemed too big and too resistive to bend even just to where the cpu was


Add yourself to the list with your new H100i. Congrats on the build. Post some pictures!


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> I built a friends 8350/saber/gtx 670/H100i computer today and i gotta say i was IMPRESSED by the new i's. the software was very cool too see all the specs and to be able to change the corsair LED on the block. i didn't get to mess around with it too much but the stock fans were making a terrible rattling noise so we updated the firmware (fan rattle fix) and wow what a difference in sound. before i wasn't even considering upgrading but now its definitely in my mind. the only draw back was that i didn't like the new hoses. they seemed too big and too resistive to bend even just to where the cpu was
> 
> 
> 
> Add yourself to the list with your new H100i. Congrats on the build. Post some pictures!
Click to expand...

i am still rocking the H100-i but i am trying to get my friend to join OCN and also this club


----------



## CSCoder4ever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> So I'll be getting an H80i. Might be giving away my H60


Nice, I wish I can share my plans... but I probably shouldn't


----------



## Erick Silver

Hmmmm. New H-series is out. New HAF XB is out. Damn me not having any money....


----------



## inertianinja

I just ordered the H80i.

I have an extra 120mm Scythe Gentle Typhoon. Should I replace one of the corsair fans with that? maybe it'll run quieter?


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inertianinja*
> 
> I just ordered the H80i.
> 
> I have an extra 120mm Scythe Gentle Typhoon. Should I replace one of the corsair fans with that? maybe it'll run quieter?


Check the fans list. Also add yourself to the list. Really easy. Go to page one.


----------



## General121

I don't have any exact measurements, but I think the radiator adds more than the fan, but I'm not sure. Also, it comes with two fans.


----------



## OverClocker55

*Complete Dedication To The Club*


----------



## thenk83

I just got my H80i. Clean Windows 8 which means clean install of CorsairLink 2.2.0. Now my fans RPM stays at just over 1700 RPM in Quiet Mode and yet Performance mode runs the fans at full RPM. It seems they can't go below 1700 RPM. Nothing really happens when I manually set the fan RPM. Corsair Link detects everything fine and the LED isn't out it works. Of course, everything was fine before I updated the firmware.

When I ran the firmware update everything went fine. No hiccups.

I've already posted this on Corsair's forums. But any ideas OCN family?


----------



## inertianinja

excuse my ignorance about the fans...but

the fans list says:

Corsair Stock - 1700rpm - 50CFM - 29.75 dBA
Gentle Typhoon- 1850rpm-98CFM- 28 dBA

so that would mean that the scythe is significantly better at moving air and slightly quieter, yea?


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inertianinja*
> 
> excuse my ignorance about the fans...but
> the fans list says:
> Corsair Stock - 1700rpm - 50CFM - 29.75 dBA
> Gentle Typhoon- 1850rpm-98CFM- 28 dBA
> so that would mean that the scythe is significantly better at moving air and slightly quieter, yea?


I think you got the CFM rating mixed up on the GT.
Its only 58CFM
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10323/fan-674/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_1850_RPM_D1225C12B5AP-15_Hot_Item_.html


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inertianinja*
> 
> Gentle Typhoon- 1850rpm-98CFM- 28 dBA


Scythe GT (D1225C12B5AP-15) air flow 98 m³/h = 57.7 CFM
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inertianinja*
> 
> I just ordered the H80i.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inertianinja*
> 
> excuse my ignorance about the fans...but
> 
> the fans list says:
> 
> Corsair Stock - 1700rpm - 50CFM - 29.75 dBA


http://www.corsair.com/us/hydro-series-h80i-high-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler.html
Fan speed: 2700 RPM
Fan airflow: 77 CFM
Fan dBA: 37.68 dBA
Fan static pressure: 4mm/H20

The Corsair stock fans performance are better than GT but noisier. If you want silent, use Scythe GT.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thenk83*
> 
> I just got my H80i. Clean Windows 8 which means clean install of CorsairLink 2.2.0. Now my fans RPM stays at just over 1700 RPM in Quiet Mode and yet Performance mode runs the fans at full RPM. It seems they can't go below 1700 RPM. Nothing really happens when I manually set the fan RPM. Corsair Link detects everything fine and the LED isn't out it works. Of course, everything was fine before I updated the firmware.
> 
> When I ran the firmware update everything went fine. No hiccups.
> 
> I've already posted this on Corsair's forums. But any ideas OCN family?


Downgrade the firmware.


----------



## thenk83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Downgrade the firmware.


How? I can't find any links to any prior versions of the firmware. Do you have any official links?


----------



## inertianinja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Scythe GT (D1225C12B5AP-15) air flow 98 m³/h = 57.7 CFM
> http://www.corsair.com/us/hydro-series-h80i-high-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler.html
> Fan speed: 2700 RPM
> Fan airflow: 77 CFM
> Fan dBA: 37.68 dBA
> Fan static pressure: 4mm/H20
> The Corsair stock fans performance are better than GT but noisier. If you want silent, use Scythe GT.


thank you sir.


----------



## _TRU_

I think I'm already on other list


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_TRU_*
> 
> I think I'm already on other list


Awesome!


----------



## TechSilver13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inertianinja*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Scythe GT (D1225C12B5AP-15) air flow 98 m³/h = 57.7 CFM
> http://www.corsair.com/us/hydro-series-h80i-high-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler.html
> Fan speed: 2700 RPM
> Fan airflow: 77 CFM
> Fan dBA: 37.68 dBA
> Fan static pressure: 4mm/H20
> The Corsair stock fans performance are better than GT but noisier. If you want silent, use Scythe GT.
> 
> 
> 
> thank you sir.
Click to expand...

Id recommend cougars 70cfm fans...they are almost silent and decently priced.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Tonza

Can someone explain why H100i burned my mobo USB header and destroyed also 1x SSD what was on same SATA power cable than the H100i when i powered PC first time







? Got replacement SSD, and the H100i is working nicely on another USB header. So far this thing destroys my old D14 SE2011, its about 10-15c better. CBA to RMA my mobo, dont need the USB header anyway!


----------



## -Hawkins-

I'm actually curious on the dimensions of the H100i

Quoted from Amazon product page on the H100i:

12.2 x 5.9 x 8.6 inches ; 3.3 pounds

Now the length I know is 12.2 but is it REALLY almost 6.0 in thickness?

-Hawkins


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonza*
> 
> Can someone explain why H100i burned my mobo USB header and destroyed also 1x SSD what was on same SATA power cable than the H100i when i powered PC first time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? Got replacement SSD, and the H100i is working nicely on another USB header. So far this thing destroys my old D14 SE2011, its about 10-15c better. CBA to RMA my mobo, dont need the USB header anyway!


Very strange







... Possibly was due to hooking up new hardware (H100i) without setting all your overclocks back to stock (bios reset) for installation, then reapplying your overclocks after installation is complete. There is considerable more stress on a mobo in an overclocked environment, I always set my clocks to stock for "most" new Hardware installations. But granted it shouldn't have caused the USB socket burnout, but it is all I can think of unless the mobo was faulty to begin with (ie, 1st use of that particular USB header?) Also curious if your new SSD is still on the same SATA power cable as the H100i?

I use to own a D-14 and 10c-15c is quite a large improvement? I would've expected a little more than 1/2 that? I unfortunately lost my old benchmarks with the D-14, and have since sold it, so no verified comparisons from me







Was that with a 5.0GHz OC under full load (P95?) what were the ambients? what is your setup? top exhaust or intake?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Hawkins-*
> 
> I'm actually curious on the dimensions of the H100i
> Quoted from Amazon product page on the H100i:
> 12.2 x 5.9 x 8.6 inches ; 3.3 pounds
> Now the length I know is 12.2 but is it REALLY almost 6.0 in thickness?
> -Hawkins


Not even close, Amazon must have made a misprint ... The radiator itself is 27mm/1.06 inches and stock setup with 2 fans is 52 mm = 2.05 inches ... I thought it was closer to 2-1/4" or even 2-3/8" so I physically measured mine while mounted and indeed it is only 2" thick








You can read the Corsair H100i specs [HERE]


----------



## dusters16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Hawkins-*
> 
> I'm actually curious on the dimensions of the H100i
> Quoted from Amazon product page on the H100i:
> 12.2 x 5.9 x 8.6 inches ; 3.3 pounds
> Now the length I know is 12.2 but is it REALLY almost 6.0 in thickness?
> -Hawkins


That's the measurement of the box ..... how do i know? i just measured it








My still New-In-Box H100i has not been installed yet. I'm waiting on my local MicroCenter to get more 3770k's in.

Oh and I now have a $500 car payment (2013 V6 Mustang w/ Sync) so that will slow down the progress of my new build


----------



## Nethermir

Question: Is the back plate of H100i similar to the old H100?


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir*
> 
> Question: Is the back plate of H100i similar to the old H100?


it uses the stock AMD backplate and fan mounting like the H100-i does and the intel backplate is the same, just the forward mounting bracket is different


----------



## ekg84

Got myself a renewed Corsair H60 several days ago and extremely happy with it:





Im loving new flexible tubing, also polished waterblock looks amazing IMO

Guys BTW vote for Mod Of The Month here:









http://www.overclock.net/t/1325588/november-2012-mod-of-the-month-poll-up-vote-now/0_50


----------



## thenk83

I'm RMAing my H80i. We'll see how this goes. Hopefully it's smooth. I'm sure some people don't have issues with the 1.0.4 firmware but use it with caution.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tonza*
> 
> Can someone explain why H100i burned my mobo USB header and destroyed also 1x SSD what was on same SATA power cable than the H100i when i powered PC first time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? Got replacement SSD, and the H100i is working nicely on another USB header. So far this thing destroys my old D14 SE2011, its about 10-15c better. CBA to RMA my mobo, dont need the USB header anyway!


Since none of us were there when you connected the H100, we can't possibly guess what the problem was. However, since the H100 is working fine on another USB header, I don't think it was caused by the H100. If a customer brought this into me at work, I would be forced to consider other possibilities.









If the H100 caused this fault, it would also have killed the second USB port you plugged it into. If you're convinced it was the H100, then talk to Corsair about it. If you can convince them that the H100 killed the USB port and your ssd, they may replace the damaged hardware. If you are convinced the H100 caused it, why did you risk plugging it into another USB port?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> Got myself a renewed Corsair H60 several days ago and extremely happy with it:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im loving new flexible tubing, also polished waterblock looks amazing IMO
> Guys BTW vote for Mod Of The Month here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1325588/november-2012-mod-of-the-month-poll-up-vote-now/0_50


That's a real sweet assed build you got there. Nice job.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> Got myself a renewed Corsair H60 several days ago and extremely happy with it:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im loving new flexible tubing, also polished waterblock looks amazing IMO
> 
> Guys BTW vote for Mod Of The Month here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1325588/november-2012-mod-of-the-month-poll-up-vote-now/0_50


Nice looking rig mate! Go ahead and add yourself to the list if wanted. Links on page one or my signature


----------



## inertianinja

big disappointment for me: the H80i won't fit in the Silverstone SG-09.

1. the radiator is wider than the claimed 120mm. I have two other brands' 120mm fans tested in there and they fit with clearance.

2. the radiator is so tall that it has to be mounted with the tubes on top, and even then it's only about 3mm above the graphics card.

3. the radiator+fans are so long when stacked that they almost cover the CPU in that case...the tubes just won't bend enough.

so, it's going back to newegg and I'm getting banged for a restocking fee :/

if anyone can recommend a smaller water cooler I'm open to suggestions.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inertianinja*
> 
> big disappointment for me: the H80i won't fit in the Silverstone SG-09.
> 
> 1. the radiator is wider than the claimed 120mm. I have two other brands' 120mm fans tested in there and they fit with clearance.
> 
> 2. the radiator is so tall that it has to be mounted with the tubes on top, and even then it's only about 3mm above the graphics card.
> 
> 3. the radiator+fans are so long when stacked that they almost cover the CPU in that case...the tubes just won't bend enough.
> 
> so, it's going back to newegg and I'm getting banged for a restocking fee :/
> 
> if anyone can recommend a smaller water cooler I'm open to suggestions.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Well thank you mate! I was about to get this case with an H80i a long the road. Before you send it post some pics so we can see!


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Hey, im sure this was discussed somewhere before, but 2153 pages is a bit long to read through. LOL. Honestly, great job making this a strong thread.

My question is, im running an "old" H50 on my i7 920, and just ran into a linus tech tips video on the corsair SP120 fans. They do look pretty good, as seeing as so far I love everything corsair makes, why not give them a try. Im just wondering if anyone on here has already figured out how good or not good they are for the H50 or similar setups?

Currently I have two Antec Tricool fans on full blast (pretty loud) in a push pull config, as well as 5 additional Tricools for intake and exhaust throughout my Antec P182 (moded) case.

Im thinking of getting two SP 120's for my rad, but I was thinking, if I cut the rear of my case out so there is no metal mesh, would the pull fan be better suited as say an air flow series corsair fan since there wouldn't be any resistance on the push side of the fan, or does the resistance on the radiator side of this "exhaust" fan also play into account on the vacuum it would be creating.

Also, what do you guys think are the best fans for the job, right now im running about 35c (very dependant on ambient temp) idle at a 3.82 ghz OC, and max out at about 65c.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Hey, im sure this was discussed somewhere before, but 2153 pages is a bit long to read through. LOL. Honestly, great job making this a strong thread.
> My question is, im running an "old" H50 on my i7 920, and just ran into a linus tech tips video on the corsair SP120 fans. They do look pretty good, as seeing as so far I love everything corsair makes, why not give them a try. Im just wondering if anyone on here has already figured out how good or not good they are for the H50 or similar setups?
> Currently I have two Antec Tricool fans on full blast (pretty loud) in a push pull config, as well as 5 additional Tricools for intake and exhaust throughout my Antec P182 (moded) case.
> Im thinking of getting two SP 120's for my rad, but I was thinking, if I cut the rear of my case out so there is no metal mesh, would the pull fan be better suited as say an air flow series corsair fan since there wouldn't be any resistance on the push side of the fan, or does the resistance on the radiator side of this "exhaust" fan also play into account on the vacuum it would be creating.
> Also, what do you guys think are the best fans for the job, right now im running about 35c (very dependant on ambient temp) idle at a 3.82 ghz OC, and max out at about 65c.


I do not have the same cooler but since the Corsair H50 uses a thin rad so I think a single SP120 fan should be enough for the job (I used to have the H60, tested push vs. push/pull and I did not see any temp difference).

As for the best fan...people are probably sick of hearing this but Gentle Typhoon AP-14 or AP-15 to me is really the best out there. I have 4 installed and all I could hear is the sound of the air going through the radiators.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inertianinja*
> 
> big disappointment for me: the H80i won't fit in the Silverstone SG-09.
> 
> 1. the radiator is wider than the claimed 120mm. I have two other brands' 120mm fans tested in there and they fit with clearance.
> 
> 2. the radiator is so tall that it has to be mounted with the tubes on top, and even then it's only about 3mm above the graphics card.
> 
> 3. the radiator+fans are so long when stacked that they almost cover the CPU in that case...the tubes just won't bend enough.
> 
> so, it's going back to newegg and I'm getting banged for a restocking fee :/
> 
> if anyone can recommend a smaller water cooler I'm open to suggestions.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I would get a different case rather than a different cooler


----------



## Rayce185

Hello!

So I just received two H70's. one for the GPU and for for the CPU... Unfortunately the brackets don't fit 775 boards anymore. Now I'll have to drill it :-(


----------



## Rayce185

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That sux







You now have 3 options. Put 2 or 3 more fans on the front so its pushed towards the card more. Zip tie the rad to the top of the dvd drive cages. Or get some old crap 120. cu out the fans and use them as a mount / extender.


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> That sux
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You now have 3 options. Put 2 or 3 more fans on the front so its pushed towards the card more. Zip tie the rad to the top of the dvd drive cages. Or get some old crap 120. cu out the fans and use them as a mount / extender.


I'll take option three and make a triple shroud


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> That sux
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You now have 3 options. Put 2 or 3 more fans on the front so its pushed towards the card more. Zip tie the rad to the top of the dvd drive cages. Or get some old crap 120. cu out the fans and use them as a mount / extender.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll take option three and make a triple shroud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

There you go! That will work. Glad I could help. If your not already on the list go ahead and add yourself


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Hey, im sure this was discussed somewhere before, but 2153 pages is a bit long to read through. LOL. Honestly, great job making this a strong thread.
> My question is, im running an "old" H50 on my i7 920, and just ran into a linus tech tips video on the corsair SP120 fans. They do look pretty good, as seeing as so far I love everything corsair makes, why not give them a try. Im just wondering if anyone on here has already figured out how good or not good they are for the H50 or similar setups?
> Currently I have two Antec Tricool fans on full blast (pretty loud) in a push pull config, as well as 5 additional Tricools for intake and exhaust throughout my Antec P182 (moded) case.
> Im thinking of getting two SP 120's for my rad, but I was thinking, if I cut the rear of my case out so there is no metal mesh, would the pull fan be better suited as say an air flow series corsair fan since there wouldn't be any resistance on the push side of the fan, or does the resistance on the radiator side of this "exhaust" fan also play into account on the vacuum it would be creating.
> Also, what do you guys think are the best fans for the job, right now im running about 35c (very dependant on ambient temp) idle at a 3.82 ghz OC, and max out at about 65c.


IMO your overthinking the possible advantage/performance gain of using a higher CFM but lower Static Pressure fan as your "Pull" fan unless you just have an extra 120mm fan lying around you could save a "few" $$$ ... AND Let's not get into the whole "Mis-Matched" fan debate [HERE] again as they will work BUT NOT optimally








I would stick with 2 matching fans. You'd be fine with the GT AP-15's [HERE] as Nethermir and myself have suggested before ... BUT I also think you'd be very happy with the Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition [HERE] you mention above. They may be a bit louder than the GT's at full rpm but they are slightly cheaper cost$$$ wise and IMO look better. AND in a push/pull I doubt you'd have to run them at full rpm (2350) to match the performance of the GT-AP15's (1850rpm) with an H50 ... but if you were to only buy one for the push fan and use a cheaper one (extra one lying around) for the pull fan ... then I'd lean toward the Corsair as a single fan purchase







... but again for the corsair twin pack it only cost's you an additional $6 for the 2nd fan









I also highly recommend cutting out the rear fan grill, as you proposed above, for what ever setup you decide to go with ...You may find as I did that is one of the biggest performance boosts you can do AND it costs nothing











EDIT: Ceadderman talks about fan performance for one of his old H50's [HERE}


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inertianinja*
> 
> big disappointment for me: the H80i won't fit in the Silverstone SG-09.
> 1. the radiator is wider than the claimed 120mm. I have two other brands' 120mm fans tested in there and they fit with clearance.
> 2. the radiator is so tall that it has to be mounted with the tubes on top, and even then it's only about 3mm above the graphics card.
> 3. the radiator+fans are so long when stacked that they almost cover the CPU in that case...the tubes just won't bend enough.
> so, it's going back to newegg and I'm getting banged for a restocking fee :/
> if anyone can recommend a smaller water cooler I'm open to suggestions.
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Mines not wider.
Your case must be very very tiny if it almost covers the CPU..You can always mount it with just one fan. Also, the H80i didnt even fit in my case sitting up right or upside down..Did you try mounting it sideways...? That is almost guaranteed to fit.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> IMO your overthinking the possible advantage/performance gain of using a higher CFM but lower Static Pressure fan as your "Pull" fan unless you just have an extra 120mm fan lying around you could save a "few" $$$ ... AND Let's not get into the whole "Mis-Matched" fan debate [HERE] again as they will work BUT NOT optimally
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would stick with 2 matching fans. You'd be fine with the GT AP-15's [HERE] as Nethermir and myself have suggested before ... BUT I also think you'd be very happy with the Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition [HERE] you mention above. They may be a bit louder than the GT's at full rpm but they are slightly cheaper cost$$$ wise and IMO look better. AND in a push/pull I doubt you'd have to run them at full rpm (2350) to match the performance of the GT-AP15's (1850rpm) with an H50 ... but if you were to only buy one for the push fan and use a cheaper one (extra one lying around) for the pull fan ... then I'd lean toward the Corsair as a single fan purchase
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... but again for the corsair twin pack it only cost's you an additional $6 for the 2nd fan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also highly recommend cutting out the rear fan grill, as you proposed above, for what ever setup you decide to go with ...You may find as I did that is one of the biggest performance boosts you can do AND it costs nothing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Ceadderman talks about fan performance for one of his old H50's [HERE}


Thanks for the info. Yea I def plan on cutting the rear grate out, as well as my upper 120 and front 120's as well, I figure if I'm going to be doing an entire fan redo, lets do this right!

But my other question, any idea how much the push/pull actually does help? I don't feel like testing it right now with my current fans, firstly because I'm sure other people must have some results, and I don't have time (finals this week). I'm assuming the push/pull does help a bit, although with cutting out the rear metal mesh why would the pull fan REALLY be needed? I am going to buy the dual pack anyways, so I do plan on testing it myself, but if anyone has already determined it to help or not, maybe I won't waste my time testing.

Also, any actual results on how much cutting the metal mesh out of your case did?

Thanks!


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Thanks for the info. Yea I def plan on cutting the rear grate out, as well as my upper 120 and front 120's as well, I figure if I'm going to be doing an entire fan redo, lets do this right!
> But my other question, any idea how much the push/pull actually does help? I don't feel like testing it right now with my current fans, firstly because I'm sure other people must have some results, and I don't have time (finals this week). I'm assuming the push/pull does help a bit, although with cutting out the rear metal mesh why would the pull fan REALLY be needed? I am going to buy the dual pack anyways, so I do plan on testing it myself, but if anyone has already determined it to help or not, maybe I won't waste my time testing.
> Also, any actual results on how much cutting the metal mesh out of your case did?
> Thanks!


Push/Pull results can really depend on how good/quality (static pressure) fans you use in the 1st place. Did you read my Ceadderman link above? He swears it makes a signifigant difference (-5c?) with push/pull *for the H50* and touts the use of a push "shroud", read more [HERE] It wont take that long to test it yourself since it sounds like your purchasing 2 fans








As far as cutting the metal mesh (fan grill) out of the back/top of the case, kinda of depends on the type of case grill in the 1st place and your setup. The case grill pictured below (CM/HAF) looks quite restrictive, and if I remember right in a build with an H60 setup I did with rear exhaust and only one push fan we got a 2c-3c improvement under full load








But with an additional high quality static pressure fan pulling and also essentially exhausting (pushing) through the rear fan grill your mileage may vary *"YMMV"*









It would be nice for us if you took the time to confirm all this with your setup


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Push/Pull results can really depend on how good/quality (static pressure) fans you use in the 1st place. Did you read my Ceadderman link above? He swears it makes a signifigant difference (-5c?) with push/pull *for the H50* and touts the use of a push "shroud", read more [HERE] It wont take that long to test it yourself since it sounds like your purchasing 2 fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as cutting the metal mesh (fan grill) out of the back/top of the case, kinda of depends on the type of case grill in the 1st place and your setup. The case grill pictured below (CM/HAF) looks quite restrictive, and if I remember right in a build with an H60 setup I did with rear exhaust and only one push fan we got a 2c-3c improvement under full load
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But with an additional high quality static pressure fan pulling and also essentially exhausting (pushing) through the rear fan grill your mileage may vary *"YMMV"*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would be nice for us if you took the time to confirm all this with your setup


Yea, I took another look at it all and yea, looks like people do encourage the use of push pull, only thing is I have herd of the shroud idea before, but how does one go about making it? I think once I saw people just took apart old fans and used that as a spacer to help eliminate dead spot, but that link to the Ceadderman comments, I don't remember who said it but they said the spacer doesn't make a very large difference, and unfortunately I don't have enough clearance to run a spacer and push pull. The push fan would hit my h50 waterblock/pump







.

I will chop out the rear fan grill, that is going to happen. And I will try and run some comprehensive tests and post the results on here. Im thinking I will run a test with the setup I currently have (antec Tricools in P/P) with fan grate still intact, rerun with no fan grate, then once again with only 1 corsair static pressures in push, and once again with corsair's in P/P. (corsair tests will only be done without fan gate im thinking, not sure how much testing I really want to be doing). Although, I suppose people might want to know how much difference the corsairs do with the grate still in place. I suppose since those are results I would have liked to see, I gata do them.

Also, this is the rear fan grate the my case has, not too restrictive, but still not optimal.


----------



## Erick Silver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inertianinja*
> 
> big disappointment for me: the H80i won't fit in the Silverstone SG-09.
> 1. the radiator is wider than the claimed 120mm. I have two other brands' 120mm fans tested in there and they fit with clearance.
> 2. the radiator is so tall that it has to be mounted with the tubes on top, and even then it's only about 3mm above the graphics card.
> 3. the radiator+fans are so long when stacked that they almost cover the CPU in that case...the tubes just won't bend enough.
> so, it's going back to newegg and I'm getting banged for a restocking fee :/
> if anyone can recommend a smaller water cooler I'm open to suggestions.
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Not saying its a bad case. But that is one tiny tiny case. If the cooler and rad do not fit then get a different case.


----------



## Erick Silver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Push/Pull results can really depend on how good/quality (static pressure) fans you use in the 1st place. Did you read my Ceadderman link above? He swears it makes a signifigant difference (-5c?) with push/pull *for the H50* and touts the use of a push "shroud", read more [HERE] It wont take that long to test it yourself since it sounds like your purchasing 2 fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as cutting the metal mesh (fan grill) out of the back/top of the case, kinda of depends on the type of case grill in the 1st place and your setup. The case grill pictured below (CM/HAF) looks quite restrictive, and if I remember right in a build with an H60 setup I did with rear exhaust and only one push fan we got a 2c-3c improvement under full load
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But with an additional high quality static pressure fan pulling and also essentially exhausting (pushing) through the rear fan grill your mileage may vary *"YMMV"*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would be nice for us if you took the time to confirm all this with your setup


Yep thats HAF922. I have one of those and I cut the rear grille out. I saw a 6*c drop in temps on my H60. I then used a Silverstone fan filter to keep the dust out and it went back up about 1*c. So averaged 5*c drop removing the fan grille.


----------



## iwalkwithedead

Wowsers! Corsair H100i installed top mounted in NZXT Phantom 410


----------



## OverClocker55

Add yourself to the list if you want! Congratz on the new H100i


----------



## iwalkwithedead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Add yourself to the list if you want! Congratz on the new H100i


Added, thanks


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> hey guys. Time for that promised H80i review and group of pictures.
> Boy, its been an hour maybe installing all this only because of my youthful mistakes and double checking. The actual installation is rather easy, its just my case is crowded and my hands are large. Fun stuff.
> 
> First impressions: Very nice Newegg packaging. Very nice Corsair packaging (Quite well designed, nothing will be broken inside this likely). I was surprised by how light this baby was. Very good quality on the fans and connection.
> 
> Instructions: I didnt look at them too much, thus some of my errors. The pictures were rather easy to follow and pretty much the only thing I looked at for confirmation.
> 
> Mounting brackets: Now here's possibly the only thing I don't like. The back-plate is cheaply made and rather annoying. I think it might've been made of plastic. Either way, it gave me the most issues of all. the Intel 1155 bracket was not that bad (Bracket sitting on top to fasten the cooler down to the CPU). Also, you could not easily tell how well seated you were, as you cant see how the cooler is contacting the CPU. All in all, it seemed like something Corsair should definitely improve upon. A system much like the Hyper 212+ mounting system would be loads better.
> 
> Fans: Good fans, awesome that it comes with two. Not too noisy. One thing that frustrated me is the manual said they had arrows inside to show direction of airflow. For the life of me I could not find those arrows. Ended up comparing the fan to how I had my Antec fan in and I got it in right. P.S. These things push massive air even on a low-med RPM!
> 
> The tubing was very nice and quite flexible, as I had to twist them quite a bit for my case..I did not seat the pump/res? as well as I could have, and it did not take a liking to my case..A bit of a tight fit.
> 
> Startup: Oddly, upon the first startup, the fans started at 100% speed (very loud!) and I dont know why. A second later, the Corsair LED turned on. Then the fans slowed. I guess the fans were told to run at 100%, then the Corsair Link kicked in and told em to slow down.
> 
> Performance at stock i5 2500K (3.3-3.6GHz as per boost, whatever it would boost to):
> Hyper 212+ // Corsair H80i
> Idle: ~35C // ~29C
> Load with [email protected]: ~55C // 41C MAX after 30+min of Folding.
> I was suprised by the idle temps. Granted, as I said earlier, I was hardly able to properly seat the H80i since it was a tight fit and the twisted tubing made it want to turn and turn and turn the wrong way.
> 
> Performance at 4.7GHz Intel i5 2500k @ 1.425vcore (Yes my baby requires that much volts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Hyper 212+ // Corsair H80i
> Idle: 35-40C I believe // 35C
> P95 load ([email protected] stopped working) : 70C max // max 60C, avg 55C.
> 
> 4.7GHz scores very impressive, with the clock and vcore it has to handle (Plus me writing this as P95 is running). Two cores generally stay near 55C, while two others stay at 52/53C sometimes.
> 
> Overall, I am very pleased with this product. Corsair would =/= quality but some minor adjustments are needed with the backplate/mounting bracket design and materials aswell as the location of the supposed fan indicating air flow direction.
> Picture time! Many apologies for the low quality smartphone pictures.
> 
> My trusty assistant named Whiskers. Shes got whiskers almost bigger than my 9yr old dog and she has a tail almost the length of her main body. Shes under 1 year old.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats it! Theres my review.
> Can I join the club?


Why keep the plastic on your Southbridge cooler?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Yea, I took another look at it all and yea, looks like people do encourage the use of push pull, only thing is I have herd of the shroud idea before, but how does one go about making it? I think once I saw people just took apart old fans and used that as a spacer to help eliminate dead spot, but that link to the Ceadderman comments, I don't remember who said it but they said the spacer doesn't make a very large difference, and unfortunately I don't have enough clearance to run a spacer and push pull. The push fan would hit my h50 waterblock/pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will chop out the rear fan grill, that is going to happen. And I will try and run some comprehensive tests and post the results on here. Im thinking I will run a test with the setup I currently have (antec Tricools in P/P) with fan grate still intact, rerun with no fan grate, then once again with only 1 corsair static pressures in push, and once again with corsair's in P/P. (corsair tests will only be done without fan gate im thinking, not sure how much testing I really want to be doing). Although, I suppose people might want to know how much difference the corsairs do with the grate still in place. I suppose since those are results I would have liked to see, I gata do them.


Yea I think the shroud idea was great back in the day of LOW static pressure fans, but has outgrown it's usefullness in the "average" setup today with better engineered SP fans.
But if you didn't want to make one yourself .... [HERE] is a variety that can be purchased. And [HERE] is a review by "MartinsLiquidLab" you may find interesting, he has since retired we all miss him









Your proposed battery of tests look great and would be much appreciated!!! ... I would prioritize the tests with the Corsair SP's with and without the rear grill if I could even though your grill doesn't look as restrictive as the HAF/922








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Yep thats HAF922. I have one of those and I cut the rear grille out. I saw a 6*c drop in temps on my H60. I then used a Silverstone fan filter to keep the dust out and it went back up about 1*c. So averaged 5*c drop removing the fan grille.


Great Info







5c-6c improvement doesn't surprise me at all even with what appears to be an "Intake" setup! I think I was being conservitive on my 2c-3c improvement mentioned above as I had misplaced the actual comparison/test specs, but I did remember it made a signifigant difference AND it was FREE! What fans were you using? Was it a push/pull or just single stock fan in a push setup?


----------



## Erick Silver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Yea I think the shroud idea was great back in the day of LOW static pressure fans, but has outgrown it's usefullness in the "average" setup today with better engineered SP fans.
> But if you didn't want to make one yourself .... [HERE] is a variety that can be purchased. And [HERE] is a review by "MartinsLiquidLab" you may find interesting, he has since retired we all miss him
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your proposed battery of tests look great and would be much appreciated!!! ... I would prioritize the tests with the Corsair SP's with and without the rear grill if I could even though your grill doesn't look as restrictive as the HAF/922
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Great Info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5c-6c improvement doesn't surprise me at all even with what appears to be an "Intake" setup! I think I was being conservitive on my 2c-3c improvement mentioned above as I had misplaced the actual comparison/test specs, but I did remember it made a signifigant difference AND it was FREE! What fans were you using? Was it a push/pull or just single stock fan in a push setup?*


Fans I am using are 2x 120mm Cooler Master R4 Red LED in Push/Pull set to intake. Ambient room temps are around 23*-24*c. Load temps are 55*c and idles are 27-28*c


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Why keep the plastic on your Southbridge cooler?


i just haven't removed it, that's all.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!


I had to do the same thing on an older case I fixed up (add a shroud). I added a shroud to the front intake side of the rad and that gave me the reach I needed.

In your case you may need a double shroud (like two gutted 120mm case fans) as has been suggested.



Just purchase some 6/32 screws long enough to go through 3 fans and into the rad.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Yea I think the shroud idea was great back in the day of LOW static pressure fans, but has outgrown it's usefullness in the "average" setup today with better engineered SP fans.
> But if you didn't want to make one yourself .... [HERE] is a variety that can be purchased. And [HERE] is a review by "MartinsLiquidLab" you may find interesting, he has since retired we all miss him
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your proposed battery of tests look great and would be much appreciated!!! ... I would prioritize the tests with the Corsair SP's with and without the rear grill if I could even though your grill doesn't look as restrictive as the HAF/922


That review was great! According to that I will def be using two SP120's in push pull, which is what I figured anyways. I will try and do more tests since I guess why not just do them right. So ill order my SP120's test my current setup, test single and double SP's, then repeat with no metal grate. Not really sure how I will run the tests tho, I guess ill just have coretemp log temps as it idles and as I run prime95 or something and overlay the graphs on each other.


----------



## Liranan

Reading all these comments in regards to the new H series I am pretty impressed with what Corsair have finally released. The original H50 and 70 were mediocre at best and my H70 has been nothing but a disappointment. However the H80i is an amazing product, equal to the H100i, whilst providing excellent cooling.

Price is pretty high unfortunately, much higher than a Phanteks or SB-E.


----------



## [email protected]

Sorry to hear your H70 isn't working out well for you. If it makes you happy i am still using H70 and it's warranty is expired. After New Years it'll be 4 years old. Crazy i know huh? Not to mention the temps are still FINE!

Still yes, i think i oughta replace the cooler with a new one to play it safe cuz i have NO clue how long these coolers last!


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Fans I am using are 2x 120mm Cooler Master R4 Red LED in Push/Pull set to intake. Ambient room temps are around 23*-24*c. Load temps are 55*c and idles are 27-28*c


Very good - nice results!, I remember discussing your setup several months ago?







, but for the life of me cannot remember what model R4's you had ... there's a boatload of them ... [HERE]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> That review was great! According to that I will def be using two SP120's in push pull, which is what I figured anyways. I will try and do more tests since I guess why not just do them right. So ill order my SP120's test my current setup, test single and double SP's, then repeat with no metal grate. Not really sure how I will run the tests tho, I guess ill just have coretemp log temps as it idles and as I run prime95 or something and overlay the graphs on each other.


Excellent! ... don't forget to record your ambients/ Overclock / and 20min P95blend is very representative for all to compare with, and maybe IBT for 10min if you really want to heat things up, but I don't push that program on people unless they know what they're getting into








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liranan*
> 
> Reading all these comments in regards to the new H series I am pretty impressed with what Corsair have finally released. The original H50 and 70 were mediocre at best and my H70 has been nothing but a disappointment. However the H80i is an amazing product, equal to the H100i, whilst providing excellent cooling.
> Price is pretty high unfortunately, much higher than a Phanteks or SB-E.


Well many here would be a bit surprized at your disappointment with the H70 if it is set-up right?, maybe some more details would help? ... Also if you don't want to spend the extra $25 for the "i" series just pick up an H80 for the same price as the Phanteks (appx $85 w/rebate) [HERE] it will perform within 2c-3c of the H80i without the frills (Corsair Link) and the fans while better performers may be a bit louder depending on which setting you use 1300 RPM (Low Noise), 2000 RPM (Balanced), 2500 RPM (High Performance).
Funny while I was writing this, Amazon had the H80 for $83.99 no rebates, then when I went to link it the price had already gone up to $92.98 [HERE] ... Maybe best to wait till after the Holidays as prices will really drop especially after Obama refuses to reasonably cut spending to make a tax deal and sends the American economy into ANOTHER recession!!!








Can you fit an H100? I had seen the H100 as cheap as $74/no rebates ... That is really the best performance/dollar$$$ deal out there and alot of guys get away with running it on "Low/Med" (QUIETER) where you'll usually have to run the H80 on "High" to match the performance in the same setup.








Good review H100 vs H80 [HERE]


----------



## Mergatroid

"especially after Obama refuses to reasonably cut spending to make a tax deal and sends the American economy into ANOTHER recession!!!"

Come now bud, that's a cheap shot and a pretty bad comment to make in a place like this. You know what they say about religion and politics, right?


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> "especially after Obama refuses to reasonably cut spending to make a tax deal and sends the American economy into ANOTHER recession!!!"
> Come now bud, that's a cheap shot and a pretty bad comment to make in a place like this. You know what they say about religion and politics, right?


i won't assert my opinion, though tempting, but to respond to it just makes the situation worse my friend.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> "especially after Obama refuses to reasonably cut spending to make a tax deal and sends the American economy into ANOTHER recession!!!"
> Come now bud, that's a cheap shot and a pretty bad comment to make in a place like this. You know what they say about religion and politics, right?


politics just makes people mad... don't state and opinion that has to do with politics unless asked for it


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Excellent! ... don't forget to record your ambients/ Overclock / and 20min P95blend is very representative for all to compare with, and maybe IBT for 10min if you really want to heat things up, but I don't push that program on people unless they know what they're getting into


LOL. Yes, I will do Prime for 20 mins as well as get idle temps, im thinking let it idle after startup for 5 mins. Problem is, I have no way of recording ambient :/

Can't wait to get the fans and test them! Hope they will help a bit and bring down the overall noise of my case!


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> "especially after Obama refuses to reasonably cut spending to make a tax deal and sends the American economy into ANOTHER recession!!!"
> Come now bud, that's a cheap shot and a pretty bad comment to make in a place like this. You know what they say about religion and politics, right?


My apologies! This is no place for politics, but I do own a business license and I'm frustrated beyond belief with the "Leadership" and Politicians in general of this country, they don't appear to give a dang about "small business" except to get elected ... and if these idiots don't get a deal done you will see a "Firesale" like no other, on many computer components after the 1st of next year ... _that was really the point I was trying to make_ ... again my apologies and I'll keep it to myself from now on









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> LOL. Yes, I will do Prime for 20 mins as well as get idle temps, im thinking let it idle after startup for 5 mins. Problem is, I have no way of recording ambient :/
> Can't wait to get the fans and test them! Hope they will help a bit and bring down the overall noise of my case!


Just a simple room temperature will suffice, unless your rig is sitting near a heater or cooling duct/vent? Looking forward to your results


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> My apologies! This is no place for politics, but I do own a business license and I'm frustrated beyond belief with the "Leadership" and Politicians in general of this country, they don't appear to give a dang about "small business" except to get elected ... and if these idiots don't get a deal done you will see a "Firesale" like no other, on many computer components after the 1st of next year ... _that was really the point I was trying to make_ ... again my apologies and I'll keep it to myself from now on


Yeah, while I agree we can't talk much on politics and it will generally cause an argument. I will say that you will always face problems with every politician anywhere, heck I would love to have Obama rather than Zuma







But that's another story.


----------



## turboman

hello
I got a new H80i and installed also the new firmware for it. Then set it in quiet mode.

The fans are then running at 900rpm and they are quiet.

But the pump is running at constant 2200rpm, and can be heard from a distance. Not noisy but can always be heard. There is no quiet mode for the pump.

Has anyone made a mod to reduce pump speed?


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turboman*
> 
> hello
> I got a new H80i and installed also the new firmware for it. Then set it in quiet mode.
> 
> The fans are then running at 900rpm and they are quiet.
> 
> But the pump is running at constant 2200rpm, and can be heard from a distance. Not noisy but can always be heard. There is no quiet mode for the pump.
> 
> Has anyone made a mod to reduce pump speed?


There is no mod that I know of. I do know that you can change the speed of the pump. On my H60 I can.


----------



## turboman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> There is no mod that I know of. I do know that you can change the speed of the pump. On my H60 I can.


Thanks for the reply. How did you change pump speed on the H60?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turboman*
> 
> hello
> I got a new H80i and installed also the new firmware for it. Then set it in quiet mode.
> The fans are then running at 900rpm and they are quiet.
> But the pump is running at constant 2200rpm, and can be heard from a distance. Not noisy but can always be heard. There is no quiet mode for the pump.
> Has anyone made a mod to reduce pump speed?


Yes ... but it is only a minor change through the "splicing" of in-line diode(s) (2 at most) because of the H60/H80/H100's DC motor controller ... the big mistake some guys make is thinking they can control the pump's rpm (speed/noise) through a simple PWM controller ... NOT, and that usually (enventually) ends up with pump failure









Read more about it [HERE] "wlw wl" is quite experienced with the whole situation








Additionally I don't think you will see any signifigant reduction in noise if it is only doing it's normal "Hum"? The above mod was spawned out of the awful "rattling/grinding" noise that some pumps continue to have today even with the new "i" series release


----------



## NathG79

Hi Guys, Just adding a few pics of my newly acquired H100i. updated the firmware as soon as it was released. no grinding issue before or after.must be one of the lucky ones.
i currently have the H100i in my Phantom full tower. I have two 200mm fans up top on pull. and just added these cool Phobya shrouds to the stock sp120`s on push. great temps on my 1090T @ 4.0. idles at 18-19c on an ambient MB temp of 30c. on balanced profile in corsair link. not bad ehh.


----------



## Faithh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NathG79*
> 
> Hi Guys, Just adding a few pics of my newly acquired H100i. updated the firmware as soon as it was released. no grinding issue before or after.must be one of the lucky ones.
> i currently have the H100i in my Phantom full tower. I have two 200mm fans up top on pull. and just added these cool Phobya shrouds to the stock sp120`s on push. great temps on my 1090T @ 4.0. idles at 18-19c on an ambient MB temp of 30c. on balanced profile in corsair link. not bad ehh.


Where did you get those screws to mount 2 fans on the H100i?


----------



## NathG79

modelfixings.co.uk.. they have a very good selection.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NathG79*
> 
> modelfixings.co.uk.. they have a very good selection.


+1 for modelfixings.co.uk. They're really good. Bought from them several times and each time has been pain free and fast.


----------



## OverClocker55

That looks great mate!


----------



## NathG79

Thanks


----------



## Faithh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NathG79*
> 
> Thanks


What's the name of those screws anyway? Would they work on 4x SP120's? They're 25mm and I've got the same case as you though


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> My apologies! This is no place for politics, but I do own a business license and I'm frustrated beyond belief with the "Leadership" and Politicians in general of this country,


Now there's something we can all agree on. I can feel your frustration. It's not just the USA, and IMAO, it's not just any one party either.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turboman*
> 
> hello
> I got a new H80i and installed also the new firmware for it. Then set it in quiet mode.
> The fans are then running at 900rpm and they are quiet.
> But the pump is running at constant 2200rpm, and can be heard from a distance. Not noisy but can always be heard. There is no quiet mode for the pump.
> Has anyone made a mod to reduce pump speed?


Did you shake the rad before installing the unit? I have heard other members recommend giving it a good shake, along with the block, to move any air into the rad.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faithh*
> 
> Where did you get those screws to mount 2 fans on the H100i?


You can get them at any hardware store. 6/32 at 1.25" long. Just get longer ones (like 2.25" for about 57mm of length, or 2" for 50.8mm (not quite long enough for two 25mm fans).


----------



## kokpa

guys, h80 for 60€ or h80I for 100 is h80i worth of that if i wanna idle silence around 20db?


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

So I got my first set of test data. This is all done with the metal fan grate still intact, as it will not be coming out till probably tomorrow or the next day when I have some time. Unfortunately, these numbers are not as impressive as I had hoped :/.



The order in which this was done was Antec in PP idle-load, Antec single idle-load, SP120 single idle-load, SP120 PP idle-load with a room temp of about 74F. Hard to tell room temp, and im also somewhat sure my room did get warmer as the tests went on, meaning the SP120's were tested with a slight higher ambient, *possibly*

All fans were running max speed @12V, tricools were cranked to the max setting, and all were plugged directly into PSU via molex to 3 pin fan adapters.

I also can say the SP120's are a little louder than the tricools, which is also disappointing.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> So I got my first set of test data. This is all done with the metal fan grate still intact, as it will not be coming out till probably tomorrow or the next day when I have some time. Unfortunately, these numbers are not as impressive as I had hoped :/.
> 
> The order in which this was done was Antec in PP idle-load, Antec single idle-load, SP120 single idle-load, SP120 PP idle-load with a room temp of about 74F. Hard to tell room temp, and im also somewhat sure my room did get warmer as the tests went on, meaning the SP120's were tested with a slight higher ambient, *possibly*
> All fans were running max speed @12V, tricools were cranked to the max setting, and all were plugged directly into PSU via molex to 3 pin fan adapters.
> I also can say the SP120's are a little louder than the tricools, which is also disappointing.


Very nice job!







+R ... Don't be disappointed







... Those numbers look pretty right on for a H50 with an overclocked 1366 platform chip (pretty hot even stock) and an egg frying 4xx gtx series card (also OC'd?) ... and just to confirm setup as a "rear _exhaust_" right? ...

H50 owners join in!? IMO, I think you could see a -5c or more improvement with removing the grill and possibly? reversing to a rear intake setup, but 1st things 1st lets see how much improvement removing the grill does. AND lets not downplay the success of your load temps being in the high 60c's w/SP120 P/P / Exhaust with an H50 @74F ambients is pretty good! Also the SP120's being a little louder for an overall -4c improvement is pretty good in my book especially when it takes your temps below the coveted 70c load mark for OC'd Non custom-loop rigs


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> So I got my first set of test data. This is all done with the metal fan grate still intact, as it will not be coming out till probably tomorrow or the next day when I have some time. Unfortunately, these numbers are not as impressive as I had hoped :/.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The order in which this was done was Antec in PP idle-load, Antec single idle-load, SP120 single idle-load, SP120 PP idle-load with a room temp of about 74F. Hard to tell room temp, and im also somewhat sure my room did get warmer as the tests went on, meaning the SP120's were tested with a slight higher ambient, *possibly*
> All fans were running max speed @12V, tricools were cranked to the max setting, and all were plugged directly into PSU via molex to 3 pin fan adapters.
> I also can say the SP120's are a little louder than the tricools, which is also disappointing.


I agree, nice job on the fan comparison. What case are you using? I will be curious to see the temp difference.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Very nice job!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +R ... Don't be disappointed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Those numbers look pretty right on for a H50 with an overclocked 1366 platform chip (pretty hot even stock) and an egg frying 4xx gtx series card (also OC'd?) ... and just to confirm setup as a "rear _exhaust_" right? ...
> H50 owners join in!? IMO, I think you could see a -5c or more improvement with removing the grill and possibly? reversing to a rear intake setup, but 1st things 1st lets see how much improvement removing the grill does. AND lets not downplay the success of your load temps being in the high 60c's w/SP120 P/P / Exhaust with an H50 @74F ambients is pretty good! Also the SP120's being a little louder for an overall -4c improvement is pretty good in my book especially when it takes your temps below the coveted 70c load mark for OC'd Non custom-loop rigs


True, I am running a 1366 920 at 3.82ghz (182*21, although only 1.176 vcore) on "only a H50". I guess I kinda forgot how much heat they dump out, this stupid computer runs 200 watts at IDLE! No clue where that electricity is going lol. And yes, the GTX 470 is running OCed at normally .950v and 730 core 1770 RAM, but for these tests it was downclocked and what not so it was running at like .875v at very low MHz (runs about 46c at idle). Also, quick note, it only gained -2c at load, as well as - ~1.5c at idle which is interesting imo.

Also, yes, it is rear exhaust, although there is lots of airflow in this thing. I have 2 120 side founds on my side panel, something I did about 3 years ago now which drastically improved temps, don't remember the numbers tho.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I agree, nice job on the fan comparison. What case are you using? I will be curious to see the temp difference.


Its a slightly modded Antec P182. Got a few quick iphone pix to help give an idea. I will be cutting out the mesh EVERYWHERE it exists, front of case upper and lower chamber, as well as rear and top exhaust. Also, I have the 2 SP120's in PP, 2 antec tricools on the side, front antec tricool for top chamber, and another antec tricool in bottom chamber between harddrives and PSU. The top fan is the stock H50 fan which is actually pretty loud and crappy IMO. I have an extra tricool around here somewhere and will throw it in (don't really feel like getting all good fans at the moment). All tricools are 120's and on the middle setting with the top mounted fan being plugged into my CPU fan socket so it kinda varies with temp. I am getting a fan controller in the mail tomorrow and will try and rework my fans once this is all finished.

I will leave everything the same during my tests with no fan grates, once those tests are run I will mess with my fan controller and make things a bit diff.

Sorry the wire management isn't amazing right now, kinda had to plug the SP120's into molex power in the front real fast, and have wires where they were not originally intended to be because of the rearrange (once case gets cut up and reassembled it will all look good again). Also to note, there is a GT 620 in there that exhaust its heat into case as its a single slot card, as well as the xfi which puts out probably a negligible amount. The PSU and hard drives are in the lower chamber so their heat shouldn't be considered in the CPU temp numbers at all. There is one harddrive and one SSD in the top chamber causing minor heat, as well as northbridge 40mill fan throwin out some heat from the chipset especially at load.


----------



## OverClocker55

Hey guise







Sorry I haven't been on this thread lately. I'm about to go to the airport. I'm moving







Will be back on in a couple of days!


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Hey guise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I haven't been on this thread lately. I'm about to go to the airport. I'm moving
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be back on in a couple of days!


Good luck with the move


----------



## SimplyTheBest

Hey everyone I have a Corsair H50, I think its about 4 years old. Would you guys recommend me replace it do to its age and obviously not having a warranty on it puts all my lovely computer components out of luck if it ever decides to leak.

Right now I have no issues with the h50 but I don't want to wait till I do have one. What you guys think?
Was planning on upgrading to the h80i.


----------



## caveman59847

add me in please. I can't wait to get the CORSAIR Hydro Series H100i Water Cooler installed. When I finish I will add pics. I also am throwing in a HIS IceQ H787Q2G2M Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card to round it out. It was about time I added a new Vid Card the one I have is ancient.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solders18*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Hey guise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I haven't been on this thread lately. I'm about to go to the airport. I'm moving
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be back on in a couple of days!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck with the move
Click to expand...

Thanks! Well all went well. Got all 3 of my computer boxes shipped and received. Also my 2 suite cases got here without a problems ( thanks Delta xD )
I'm back!


----------



## Mergatroid

So who's panties are you in now? With room for suitcases?


----------



## Liranan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> So who's panties are you in now? With room for suitcases?


I laughed so hard I had banana coming out my nose.


----------



## ericlee30

I have 1 120mm Bitfenix Spectro Fan on bottom and 2 120 Specrto fans on top. The only reason I have one on the bottom is that my MSI z77 Mpower motherboards heat sink is to tall and block one side of the radiator lol


----------



## _TRU_

Can someone pm me the OD of the new h60i? Don't have bookmarks ATM. And if you know it the OD of the asetek 760gc ty


----------



## _TRU_

Double post


----------



## shredzy

Does anyone know if the H100 mounting plate is compatible with the H100i?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shredzy*
> 
> Does anyone know if the H100 mounting plate is compatible with the H100i?


Looked identical to me but wait and see if anyone else says different.


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ericlee30*
> 
> I have 1 120mm Bitfenix Spectro Fan on bottom and 2 120 Specrto fans on top. The only reason I have one on the bottom is that my MSI z77 Mpower motherboards heat sink is to tall and block one side of the radiator lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You dont really need push/pull since its only 3-5 degrees difference from what I got from my experiance. And that single fan looks kinda out of place like that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shredzy*
> 
> Does anyone know if the H100 mounting plate is compatible with the H100i?


I guess not since h100i has that magnetic thing and old one doesnt.


----------



## jtsacr01

Hey all,

Having an issue with an H80 2011 on a ASUS P9X79 Mobo - would you mind to check it out and see if you can provide any insight to my issue? Thanks for any and all assistance!

Overheating Issue


----------



## ericlee30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> You dont really need push/pull since its only 3-5 degrees difference from what I got from my experiance. And that single fan looks kinda out of place like that.


LOL that it does look out of place like that. on the 690 II advance case with out shaving the rim at the top of the case it is impossible to fit the rad at the top and the heat sink on the MSI-Mpower is to big to get the second fan on. I am looking into a new case I love the 690 II but im really starting to run out of room with it, with all the hard drives I have i cant take anything out to give more room. I love this case but I cant stop adding stuff to it so its Time for the case to retire lol

Here is the front of my case I have this thing packed as much as i can and Im getting a second 7950 also and 2 more HDD and one SSD


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shredzy*
> 
> Does anyone know if the H100 mounting plate is compatible with the H100i?


no they aren't.

H100


H100i


----------



## Milestailsprowe

Hello

Right now I have a H60 which is doing good but I'm thinking of going to a H80i

Would it be worth it?


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Milestailsprowe*
> 
> Hello
> 
> Right now I have a H60 which is doing good but I'm thinking of going to a H80i
> 
> Would it be worth it?


Well its double the rad size. I would say you might see a slight change.


----------



## Milestailsprowe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Well its double the rad size. I would say you might see a slight change.


Slight Change? 3-4 degrees?


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Milestailsprowe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Well its double the rad size. I would say you might see a slight change.
> 
> 
> 
> Slight Change? 3-4 degrees?
Click to expand...

I would say so. 3-4 maybe more. Depends. Check out some reviews and stuff and compare.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shredzy*
> 
> Does anyone know if the H100 mounting plate is compatible with the H100i?


If you're referring to the back plate, it should fit. If you're referring to the bracket on the front, not likely.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtsacr01*
> 
> Hey all,
> Having an issue with an H80 2011 on a ASUS P9X79 Mobo - would you mind to check it out and see if you can provide any insight to my issue? Thanks for any and all assistance!
> Overheating Issue


Try turning the block 90 degrees. On my H100 I was going to install the block upright, but after installing it I could see between the block and the CPU. Turns out there were some capacitors near the CPU socket that the block was hitting. When I turned it 90 degrees so it was sideways, I got full contact and the capacitors were no longer an issue.

Also, make sure your pump is running at 100%. You should be able to see how fast it's running if you have it plugged into a fan header (use Fanspeed to check the RPM, or use your BIOS).

Make sure your fans are both pointing in the same direction. We have seen people install them wrong, with both fans blowing into or away from the rad. One should be blowing into the rad, and the other away from the rad.


----------



## blizzard232

Hi guys, I need an info about H80, could I put it on i5-2400 under PSU Corsair CX600? It will be the similar setup like this from unixwizzrd http://cdn.overclock.net/5/52/52dcbe14_vbattach129888.jpeg, I have some **** case from local manufacteur http://i.imgur.com/ziqeW.jpg, which has space for PSU on upper side.. thnx for reply..


----------



## _TRU_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blizzard232*
> 
> Hi guys, I need an info about H80, could I put it on i5-2400k under PSU Corsair CX600? It will be the similar setup like this from unixwizzrd http://cdn.overclock.net/5/52/52dcbe14_vbattach129888.jpeg, I have some **** case from local manufacteur http://i.imgur.com/ziqeW.jpg, which has space for PSU on upper side.. thnx for reply..


*2500k?

Sent from my Bombed SIII


----------



## blizzard232

sry, just i5-2400


----------



## OverClocker55

I wouldn't see why not. Your psu air flow may be blocked a bit but I doubt it would matter.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

So far from my testing, cutting out the fan grate has actually done nothing for temps :/. I havn't done the extensive tests I did last time because I have my dual SP120's on there and I'm getting identical temps as I did before. The ambient temp is +- 2F, and at load I got 69, which is actually 1 higher than with the grate on. I'm assuming my ambient temp is the key here, although I can definitively say the computer is quieter quieter now than before, so in my opinion it has been worthwhile to do just for noise alone.

The only thing I did change was turn my front intake fan down 1 click (realistically might have made a difference) as well as instal a better top exhaust fan which could also be changing the airflow enough around the rad fans which might be causeing them to suck less air... Will have to experiment with this one.

Also, I gata say, it the case looks so much better in person than these pix show. Might have to bust out a real camera for this one. So that combined with noise reduction is worth it.






Next possible step before either giving up or buying an H80i would be this:
http://www.overclock.net/t/647943/guide-h50-replace-tubes-and-res-mod#post_8175181


----------



## shetu

Is corsair 550D suitable case for H100?


----------



## SDH500

Anyone know where I can find info on the flow rates for the original H50 and H60?


----------



## thenk83

So I RMA'd my H80i because of an issue with the new firmware. I sent back the unit and the fans only. Corsair sent me a whole new box! Not just cooler and the fans. Totally not necessary but super cool to say the least that they did that. RMA process was rather smooth too. I had to nudge them once but it was easy. Hopefully I'll get this installed tonight! Yay!


----------



## mwl5apv

I have a question in regards to the backplate of my H70 unit. As you all may know the original H70's the H60's and H50's all came with a black plastic backlpate to attach to the back of the motherboard. I have no issues with it however I do notice that becasue the backplate is a soft plastic, I am getting some slight flexing of the motherboard when I tighten the cooler itself down.

I notice this becasue of the way my RAM slides into the DIMM Slots slots. With either the cooler off completely or the original ASUS AMD plate on, they slide right in like they are suppose to. But when the cooler is on and tightened down I feel the RAM is a tighter fit between the two ends of the RAM slots.

Is there anyway to use the stock AMD backplate with the original H70? a mod of some sort maybe? I am not overtightening the cooler either. I simply tighten the screws until they're snug and then give them like an 1/8 turn after that just to be sure its secure. Or is there any other mods to help stiffen up the plate?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> So far from my testing, cutting out the fan grate has actually done nothing for temps :/. I havn't done the extensive tests I did last time because I have my dual SP120's on there and I'm getting identical temps as I did before. The ambient temp is +- 2F, and at load I got 69, which is actually 1 higher than with the grate on. I'm assuming my ambient temp is the key here, although I can definitively say the computer is quieter quieter now than before, so in my opinion it has been worthwhile to do just for noise alone.
> The only thing I did change was turn my front intake fan down 1 click (realistically might have made a difference) as well as instal a better top exhaust fan which could also be changing the airflow enough around the rad fans which might be causeing them to suck less air... Will have to experiment with this one.
> Also, I gata say, it the case looks so much better in person than these pix show. Might have to bust out a real camera for this one. So that combined with noise reduction is worth it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next possible step before either giving up or buying an H80i would be this:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/647943/guide-h50-replace-tubes-and-res-mod#post_8175181


You're case is looking pretty sweet man.

I have to say I'm not all that surprised by your testing results. Removing the mesh is only going to produce better temps if it was a major-ish factor to begin with. If you already had good air flow, and the mesh was not much of an obstruction, it's no surprise that temps were not affected much.

Now, on a case like the Corsair 600T, with two sets of mesh for the air to go through at the front, and two sets of mesh at the top, removing a mesh layer top and front will make a difference, but I haven't seen anyone post results as much as 5c. It's usually around 3c. The biggest advantage I've seen so far is noise reduction.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shetu*
> 
> Is corsair 550D suitable case for H100?


According to Corsair's website, the H100 will fit into the 500D. You may have to remove the top fan cover for best performance though.

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=106755


----------



## x2ezx

Hi, I want to upgrade my old H70 to the new H100i but I have a question. Do i need to plug all the wired that came with the h100i or I can plug just the SATA power and the fans to my fans controller?? I really like the clean look with of my H70.

Thanks!


----------



## nerdybeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x2ezx*
> 
> Hi, I want to upgrade my old H70 to the new H100i but I have a question. Do i need to plug all the wired that came with the h100i or I can plug just the SATA power and the fans to my fans controller?? I really like the clean look with of my H70.
> Thanks!


I upgraded form H70 to H100 also. You can plug your fans directly into a fan controller still no problem. You will have to plug the pump into power just like the H70, but nothing else. See pics of my rig.


----------



## Devildog83

The usb header allows you to run corsair link and you will want that. The cable is plenty long enough to fit behing the mobo to hide it. Also the vans plugged into the pump works much better so you can control them from your desktop. I love my H100i. I just installed it an hour ago. Runs quiet and cools great. Hint: if you install this don't run the fans any lower than balanced, they don't like it.


----------



## Devildog83

What does it take to join this elite club?


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nerdybeat*
> 
> I upgraded form H70 to H100 also. You can plug your fans directly into a fan controller still no problem. You will have to plug the pump into power just like the H70, but nothing else. See pics of my rig.


I love "The Mothership" , nice work.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> What does it take to join this elite club?


Well, let me think now. You might have to own a Hyrdro series cooler... no that's just silly, what am I thinking.


----------



## x2ezx

Thanks for the fast anwser!


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> What does it take to join this elite club?


A simple filling out of the form on page 1


----------



## paulwarden2505

I have just joined the club with the H80i very nice keeping my oc'd 1090t around 40c while folding


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulwarden2505*
> 
> I have just joined the club with the H80i very nice keeping my oc'd 1090t around 40c while folding


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> So far from my testing, cutting out the fan grate has actually done nothing for temps :/. I havn't done the extensive tests I did last time because I have my dual SP120's on there and I'm getting identical temps as I did before.
> 
> 
> 
> You're case is looking pretty sweet man.
> I have to say I'm not all that surprised by your testing results. Removing the mesh is only going to produce better temps if it was a major-ish factor to begin with. If you already had good air flow, and the mesh was not much of an obstruction, it's no surprise that temps were not affected much.
> Now, on a case like the Corsair 600T, with two sets of mesh for the air to go through at the front, and two sets of mesh at the top, removing a mesh layer top and front will make a difference, but I haven't seen anyone post results as much as 5c. It's usually around 3c. The biggest advantage I've seen so far is noise reduction.
Click to expand...

Very well said "Merg"







... I was a little surprised Shoot'em didn't see at least a -2c improvement (maybe -3c to -5c w/additionally switching to intake), but I didn't take into account how efficient the newer "Static Pressure" fans are at moving air through obsrtructions (grills/radiators etc). Back in the day with the typical inefficient SP fans, grill removal was a must, but like you said is still worth the effort for the sound reduction and LOOKs IMO









Thanks Shoot'em for your time and effort! ... your mods look very nice ... I like the sharp metal edge trim (Nvidia green?) you put on there


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Very well said "Merg"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... I was a little surprised Shoot'em didn't see at least a -2c improvement (maybe -3c to -5c w/additionally switching to intake), but I didn't take into account how efficient the newer "Static Pressure" fans are at moving air through obsrtructions (grills/radiators etc). Back in the day with the typical inefficient SP fans, grill removal was a must, but like you said is still worth the effort for the sound reduction and LOOKs IMO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Shoot'em for your time and effort! ... your mods look very nice ... I like the sharp metal edge trim (Nvidia green?) you put on there


Yea, maybe after everything I got like a very slight reduction in temps (within margin of error of ambient), but overall nothing to write home about. Its not even enough to really delve into another comparative graph of it all. I'm assuming maybe the Antec Tricools might perform marginally better without the grate because less obstruction, but I don't think the SP120's really cared much either way. But like I said, the noise is better, and it looks so sharp!

The green, actually I hadn't thought of it being Nvidia green. lol. I like that though. I just figured it would look cool as a pretty stark contrast to the rest of my case, give it a little edginess was my thought. Only reason I did it was to potentially save my fingers from getting sliced up. It was getting cold and dark by the time I was finishing up and just left the edges a bit sharp... The green material is actually RC car fuel line, I'm pretty big into RC's, so I figured fuel line, cut lengthwise, would fit perfectly and look great!


----------



## Devildog83

Well that I have, so that just makes me automatically a member?

OK, OK, I filled out the form,


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Yea, maybe after everything I got like a very slight reduction in temps (within margin of error of ambient), but overall nothing to write home about. Its not even enough to really delve into another comparative graph of it all. I'm assuming maybe the Antec Tricools might perform marginally better without the grate because less obstruction, but I don't think the SP120's really cared much either way. But like I said, the noise is better, and it looks so sharp!
> The green, actually I hadn't thought of it being Nvidia green. lol. I like that though. I just figured it would look cool as a pretty stark contrast to the rest of my case, give it a little edginess was my thought. Only reason I did it was to potentially save my fingers from getting sliced up. It was getting cold and dark by the time I was finishing up and just left the edges a bit sharp... The green material is actually RC car fuel line, I'm pretty big into RC's, so I figured fuel line, cut lengthwise, would fit perfectly and look great!


That's a great idea. Can you get those fuel lines in different colours?


----------



## kokpa

got corsair h80, batch number 11519402 and guess what rattle noise, and ****ed fan controller. Very nice








And yes i did try many solutions from forums. Should i sent it back to my seller or directly to corsair and hoping that they sent me new one(maybe h80i). This gets me angry like hell, beacuse i have decided to buy or not to buy a half a couple of months.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Corsair usually asks customers to send defective products directly back to them


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kokpa*
> 
> got corsair h80, batch number 11519402 and guess what rattle noise, and ****ed fan controller. Very nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes i did try many solutions from forums. Should i sent it back to my seller or directly to corsair and hoping that they sent me new one(maybe h80i). This gets me angry like hell, beacuse i have decided to buy or not to buy a half a couple of months.


The only noises ive heard about the new coolers making is when the fan idles too low. And the fan controller software has new versions that fix any issues.


----------



## caveman59847

I just added a Corsair Hydro Series h100i and I have not heard any noises yet other than the Corsair fans are a little loud I will try throttling it down below 50% and see how it sounds. Other than that I cant complain as with my air cooler I can say I am seeing at least a 8 degree to 12 degree difference. I ran Prime95 Torture Test and I couldn't get it above 42C and it idles around 26c.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caveman59847*
> 
> I just added a Corsair Hydro Series h100i and I have not heard any noises yet other than the Corsair fans are a little loud I will try throttling it down below 50% and see how it sounds. Other than that I cant complain as with my air cooler I can say I am seeing at least a 8 degree to 12 degree difference. I ran Prime95 Torture Test and I couldn't get it above 42C and it idles around 26c.


AM3 chips run super cool ... my H100 cools the 2600k I have to about 48C load ... that being said, I half-assed the TIM application [AS5, used a razor blade to quickly spread it]. Now that I know everything runs well I can do the indigo extreme tomorrow


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> That's a great idea. Can you get those fuel lines in different colours?


Yea they are available in all sorts of colors no problem. My family actually owns a hobby shop and all we had on hand was the green I used, blue and purple, but lots of colors are available! Easiest way to find what you might be ebay (http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=RC+car+fuel+line&_sacat=0&_from=R40) to be honest... There are plenty of online stores (as well as our shop, VGRacing







, had to plug myself a little bit) but really you don't need much of it unless you plan on using it all over the place or around all sorts of edges for instance. U just cut it with a knife length wise and I didn't even use any glue or anything to secure it. It holds decently under its own pressure, and with a fan mounted over it compressing the fan side it isn't going anywhere.


----------



## paulwarden2505

I have noticed that there is a whine from the fans on my H80i when they are on full speed (which is how i prefer it while i am folding) but i have not updated the firmware yet would it be wise to do so or just leave it as it is as am having no problems at moment


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *caveman59847*
> 
> I just added a Corsair Hydro Series h100i and I have not heard any noises yet other than the Corsair fans are a little loud I will try throttling it down below 50% and see how it sounds. Other than that I cant complain as with my air cooler I can say I am seeing at least a 8 degree to 12 degree difference. I ran Prime95 Torture Test and I couldn't get it above 42C and it idles around 26c.
> 
> 
> 
> *AM3 chips run super cool* ... my H100 cools the 2600k I have to about 48C load ... that being said, I half-assed the TIM application [AS5, used a razor blade to quickly spread it]. Now that I know everything runs well I can do the indigo extreme tomorrow
Click to expand...









Since when? Having run 940, 955, 965, 1055 and 1100T and having lapped 955 and 965, I can honestly say that I disagree. But if you're meaning that AMD CPU pre-Sandy Bridge run cooler than i7-920 and further you would be correct about that. There isn't a single AMD Phenom II chip that I have owned that runs less than 40c @ Idle unless I have lapped it even then they weren't that cool. I love em alot and wouldn't hesitate to get them again but I don't think they run all that cool.









~Ceadder


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since when? Having run 940, 955, 965, 1055 and 1100T and having lapped 955 and 965, I can honestly say that I disagree. But if you're meaning that AMD CPU pre-Sandy Bridge run cooler than i7-920 and further you would be correct about that. There isn't a single AMD Phenom II chip that I have owned that runs less than 40c @ Idle unless I have lapped it even then they weren't that cool. I love em alot and wouldn't hesitate to get them again but I don't think they run all that cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I've owned a few AM3's, and overclocked to 4-4.2GHz, none of them ever topped 55C at load.

What I meant by cooler, was relative to Intel chips. At 1.55v, an AMD chip will keep cooler than an Intel chip at 1.55v


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kokpa*
> 
> got corsair h80, batch number 11519402 and guess what rattle noise, and ****ed fan controller. Very nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes i did try many solutions from forums. Should i sent it back to my seller or directly to corsair and hoping that they sent me new one(maybe h80i). This gets me angry like hell, beacuse i have decided to buy or not to buy a half a couple of months.


I would do whatever is faster. Since I purchase from a local store, I can take products back the same day. If you feel it would be faster to return it to your supplier, then do that. If not, then send it to Corsair. I had to RMA a mouse and they were very fast.


----------



## Solders18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since when? Having run 940, 955, 965, 1055 and 1100T and having lapped 955 and 965, I can honestly say that I disagree. But if you're meaning that AMD CPU pre-Sandy Bridge run cooler than i7-920 and further you would be correct about that. There isn't a single AMD Phenom II chip that I have owned that runs less than 40c @ Idle unless I have lapped it even then they weren't that cool. I love em alot and wouldn't hesitate to get them again but I don't think they run all that cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've owned a few AM3's, and overclocked to 4-4.2GHz, none of them ever topped 55C at load.
> 
> What I meant by cooler, was relative to Intel chips. At 1.55v, an AMD chip will keep cooler than an Intel chip at 1.55v
Click to expand...

agreed. overall compared to intel, and runs alot cooler. amd under load will see 40-55 where intels will see 60-75. my roommates laptop has an i7 in it and it will see 100 mmm mmm mmm toasty!


----------



## Rayce185

I have two H70's: One for the Q9650 and one for the (currently RMA'd) GTX660ti. The GPU one is fine, but the CPU one is giving off a rattling noise, although I have it running at 70% already (regulated in BIOS). Is there anything I can do to fix this?


----------



## Zackotsu

Mine..from NH D-14 to H100i..big difference from performance..currently 5c cooler from my old D-14


----------



## jktmas

hey guys i couldnt find this after searching through ocn,
what size tubing should i use to add a res to my H80 loop? and is there anything else i should know about adding a res to my H80


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> hey guys i couldnt find this after searching through ocn,
> what size tubing should i use to add a res to my H80 loop? and is there anything else i should know about adding a res to my H80


Yeah. You shouldn't do it.

1- Adding a res is completely pointless

2- You wont have enough liquid in the loop

3- Cutting open the loop is just stupid, it's not meant to be changed.

4- DON'T DO IT.


----------



## Rayce185

Any help on the rattling noise problem?


----------



## [email protected]

Hey guys i need help on deciding which cooler i should get. The regular H80 or H80i or what?

Sig rig below. I had the H70 for three years. So it's warranty is out and i rather replace my cooler cuz it's old. Surprised it still works but i do notice a slight increase temp now. I figured it's time to replace it with a new one.

Any suggestions?

I am just wary about the reviews on those who own the H80i and H100i firmware software reviews having problems and etc.

Should i stick with the standard H80 or go for the newer ones?

In the meantime i oughta get more ram.. but don't know.

Just wanted a second opinion!


----------



## General121

H80i. Haven't had a single issue. Mine controls the fans fine without the corsair link anyway, though the firmware issues were fixed long ago


----------



## MerkageTurk

just got the h100i


----------



## ViTosS

Can I just clean the previous thermal paste in my Tt Frio and just ''plug'' the H100i with it's own thermal paste already applied? Is it a good one?

Thanks.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViTosS*
> 
> Can I just clean the previous thermal paste in my Tt Frio and just ''plug'' the H100i with it's own thermal paste already applied? Is it a good one?
> Thanks.


Yes, absolutely. I just ditched my H100, but I was impressed with the temps with the stock paste/pad.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Hey guys i need help on deciding which cooler i should get. The regular H80 or H80i or what?
> Sig rig below. I had the H70 for three years. So it's warranty is out and i rather replace my cooler cuz it's old. Surprised it still works but i do notice a slight increase temp now. I figured it's time to replace it with a new one.
> Any suggestions?
> I am just wary about the reviews on those who own the H80i and H100i firmware software reviews having problems and etc.
> Should i stick with the standard H80 or go for the newer ones?
> In the meantime i oughta get more ram.. but don't know.
> Just wanted a second opinion!


I would suggest get the H80i because...they look better







But really, go for H80i especially if you are going to buy at a local store. So if for some bad luck you get a defective unit, you can easily dump it back to the store.


----------



## Iceycold

Quick question guys, if I can't spend much on Water cooling to get something custom such as the XSPC Rasa 450 RS120 for $110, and I could get an H100 for roughly $70, should I go for it or save the money? I'm currently on an i5-3570k with a coolermaster v6 gt, planning to OC, NZXT phantom case.


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

H100 for $70 is a good deal. Go for it. Might be kind of a tight fit though depending on what fan config you are going to use in your Phantom.


----------



## WhiteRice

Gentlemen...


----------



## Iceycold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z3r0_k00l75*
> 
> H100 for $70 is a good deal. Go for it. Might be kind of a tight fit though depending on what fan config you are going to use in your Phantom.


What setup do you recommend so it just 'fits"? I currently use a front fan, back fan, 1 big fan on the top (with 1 more space free on the top), and that's about it. No side fan.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z3r0_k00l75*
> 
> H100 for $70 is a good deal. Go for it. Might be kind of a tight fit though depending on what fan config you are going to use in your Phantom.


I agree, good deal. My room mate got his 3770k to 4.75 on a H100, it did get a bit warm at full load, but it was still acceptable temps, never hit over about 78c. Its a great cooler!


----------



## Iceycold

double post -.-


----------



## Iceycold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> I agree, good deal. My room mate got his 3770k to 4.75 on a H100, it did get a bit warm at full load, but it was still acceptable temps, never hit over about 78c. Its a great cooler!


Is the performance jump from an H80 to a H100 noticable? Well it'll be noticeable but .. is it worth the extra money? Cause an H80 I can get for $50, but if the H100 is a lot better then I'll go for it since it's cheap as well.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Hey guys i need help on deciding which cooler i should get. The regular H80 or H80i or what?
> Sig rig below. I had the H70 for three years. So it's warranty is out and i rather replace my cooler cuz it's old. Surprised it still works but i do notice a slight increase temp now. I figured it's time to replace it with a new one.
> Any suggestions?
> I am just wary about the reviews on those who own the H80i and H100i firmware software reviews having problems and etc.
> Should i stick with the standard H80 or go for the newer ones?
> In the meantime i oughta get more ram.. but don't know.
> Just wanted a second opinion!


If it's been on for 3 years, replace the TIM


----------



## [email protected]

Would that NOT make any difference? I mean the cooler is three years old. Isn't it common sense to change a new one to avoid risk of broken hardware down the road? Mind you this has NEVER caused me a problem in the past. It's amazing these coolers last but nobody knows how long are they supposed to last?

Sure changing Tim would do but do i stick with Artic Silver 5 or do i need a different kind for better life span spread?


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceycold*
> 
> Is the performance jump from an H80 to a H100 noticable? Well it'll be noticeable but .. is it worth the extra money? Cause an H80 I can get for $50, but if the H100 is a lot better then I'll go for it since it's cheap as well.


Now, that's kinda hard to say. A h80 for $50 is a great deal and would be easier to manage in your case, especially if you want to run push/pull fans. The h100 is a great deal too but will probably be space-limited in the case you have - meaning that you might only be able to run it in push OR pull config but not both. The performance of the h80 in push/pull config would probably be the same as the h100 in just push or pull config but cost $20 more..... so choices choices









Were I you, I would get the h80 with 2 fans. It will be much easier to install in the Phantom and give you results near what the h100 would. Easier to install + cheaper and a lot less headache figuring out how to make it all fit.


----------



## Iceycold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z3r0_k00l75*
> 
> Now, that's kinda hard to say. A h80 for $50 is a great deal and would be easier to manage in your case, especially if you want to run push/pull fans. The h100 is a great deal too but will probably be space-limited in the case you have - meaning that you might only be able to run it in push OR pull config but not both. The performance of the h80 in push/pull config would probably be the same as the h100 in just push or pull config but cost $20 more..... so choices choices
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Were I you, I would get the h80 with 2 fans. It will be much easier to install in the Phantom and give you results near what the h100 would. Easier to install + cheaper and a lot less headache figuring out how to make it all fit.


How would I run the H80 in push/pull? Just install it in the rear of my case? I'm not really buying any additional fans, gonna use the existing: front, rear, one at the top, 2 on the lower side.

This is a tough choice, because the NZXT Phantom brings mounting brackets that makes the H100 installation a breeze in push/pull so might just settle for the H100.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Would that NOT make any difference? I mean the cooler is three years old. Isn't it common sense to change a new one to avoid risk of broken hardware down the road? Mind you this has NEVER caused me a problem in the past. It's amazing these coolers last but nobody knows how long are they supposed to last?
> 
> Sure changing Tim would do but do i stick with Artic Silver 5 or do i need a different kind for better life span spread?


For AIO (all-in-one) watercooling, it is good idea & make sense to change it with new one especially if the warranty already expired. I don't know whether corrosion can or already happen in the block or in radiator.

IMO at least need to reapply TIM once a year to maintain good performance. AS5 is a good TIM though. You can try different TIM if you want.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Any help on the rattling noise problem?


You can remove the assembly and give it a shake. Try and trap any air that might be in the system in the top of the rad away from the pump and hoses. If that doesn't help, look into your warranty.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceycold*
> 
> Is the performance jump from an H80 to a H100 noticable? Well it'll be noticeable but .. is it worth the extra money? Cause an H80 I can get for $50, but if the H100 is a lot better then I'll go for it since it's cheap as well.


There's not going to be much performance difference between an H80 and an H80i. Likely a couple of degrees.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Would that NOT make any difference? I mean the cooler is three years old. Isn't it common sense to change a new one to avoid risk of broken hardware down the road? Mind you this has NEVER caused me a problem in the past. It's amazing these coolers last but nobody knows how long are they supposed to last?
> Sure changing Tim would do but do i stick with Artic Silver 5 or do i need a different kind for better life span spread?


AS5 is good TIM, use it if you have it. Just remember it needs curing time. These coolers have a five year warranty, so personally I don't think it's necessary to replace them at three. Take the cooler off, clean the rad, block and CPU, and reapply the tim. Might want to clean your fans again too.

If you're not seeing a serious degradation in performance, there's no reason to replace it. You can leave TIM in place as long as the unit is maintaining it's temperatures.


----------



## Iceycold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> There's not going to be much performance difference between an H80 and an H80i. Likely a couple of degrees.


I meant H80 and H100, sorry if I wasn't clear.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

I say h100 if you can manage it, but also consider what kind of OC you are going for. If your only looking for say a 4.4 ghz clock, and I believe you have a 3570k, that would suffice perfectly fine IMO. I have only ever used a h50 and h100, so I might not be the most informed, but to be honest my h50 on my 130 watt i7 920 at 3.82 GHz isn't even an issue, it does a great job! So if low to mid 4's is what your after I say save your money and get h80.


----------



## Iceycold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> I say h100 if you can manage it, but also consider what kind of OC you are going for. If your only looking for say a 4.4 ghz clock, and I believe you have a 3570k, that would suffice perfectly fine IMO. I have only ever used a h50 and h100, so I might not be the most informed, but to be honest my h50 on my 130 watt i7 920 at 3.82 GHz isn't even an issue, it does a great job! So if low to mid 4's is what your after I say save your money and get h80.


Well the price on the H80i is a bit too high for my liking, (cutitng it close on budget here), so H80 it is for me. Unless I can find those brackets for the H100 I need to fit it into my case. I want to OC to 4.4-4.5. I'm only paying $5 more for the H100 anyways.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceycold*
> 
> Well the price on the H80i is a bit too high for my liking, (cutitng it close on budget here), so H80 it is for me. Unless I can find those brackets for the H100 I need to fit it into my case. I want to OC to 4.4-4.5. I'm only paying $5 more for the H100 anyways.


What's your budget?

I got my H100 for $45 shipped, and my Kuhler 920 for $48 (Pick-up)


----------



## Iceycold

Budget is $100 shipped. I talked about an H100 $70 earlier but that's used on amazon (amazon warehouse though so it's working for sure). I do have the brackets for installing the H100 though so I'll go with that. If you have any further suggestions please let me know, I won't be ordering till tomorrow. Late Christmas present heh.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceycold*
> 
> Budget is $100 shipped. I talked about an H100 $70 earlier but that's used on amazon (amazon warehouse though so it's working for sure). I do have the brackets for installing the H100 though so I'll go with that. If you have any further suggestions please let me know, I won't be ordering till tomorrow. Late Christmas present heh.


Give me a few minutes. I got mine from an OCN member, it was BNIB shipped for $45. He had another unit although i'm not sure if it's still available. I'll look around though, see what I can find

NCIX US has it for $90 with $15 rebate. Newegg has it for $95 with $20 rebate. I hate rebates, but there's one for $90 shipped in the ocn market place

Go for Scorpion49's $70 shipped H100 from the Marketplace







(PS. I bought the other one from him







)


----------



## Iceycold

Wow, thanks man, going to PM him.


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Any help on the rattling noise problem?


I guess not =/


----------



## abgersaurus

Hi!

I guess I'll join the club aswell!







here is 2 pics.




i7 3770K running stable at 4.6 GHz with 1.342 volt

ambient temp = 20 celcius

idle = 35 C

load = 60 C


----------



## rasa123

Just picked up an H60 from the egg for $39 to replace my ancient Scythe Mugen 2 air cooler. I love the clean look it gives the case and I haven't encountered the noisy pump problem some people have, so I can't complain too much! Unfortunately, I can't really check to see if there was any difference in temps because of my unlocked cpu...


----------



## Iceycold

How much celsius difference is there between a standard push OR pull setup and a push/pull config with teh H100 if anyone knows?


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceycold*
> 
> How much celsius difference is there between a standard push OR pull setup and a push/pull config with teh H100 if anyone knows?


I don't have an exact comparison, but one can derive results from the following review ( Link

There's stock fans push, and there's push/pull with AP15s. About a 1ºC difference



And those results are corroborated by another review from HardOCP

1ºC difference between Push and Push/pull


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Hey guys i need help on deciding which cooler i should get. The regular H80 or H80i or what?
> Sig rig below. I had the H70 for three years. So it's warranty is out and i rather replace my cooler cuz it's old. Surprised it still works but i do notice a slight increase temp now. I figured it's time to replace it with a new one. Any suggestions?
> I am just wary about the reviews on those who own the H80i and H100i firmware software reviews having problems and etc.
> Should i stick with the standard H80 or go for the newer ones?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Would that NOT make any difference? I mean the cooler is three years old. Isn't it common sense to change a new one to avoid risk of broken hardware down the road? Mind you this has NEVER caused me a problem in the past. It's amazing these coolers last but nobody knows how long are they supposed to last?
> Sure changing Tim would do but do i stick with Artic Silver 5 or do i need a different kind for better life span spread?
> 
> 
> 
> If money isn't an issue go for the H80i, but with an average OC you could save big $$$'s on an H80 and essentially see the same performance BUT the fan noise will be louder. Additionally if your H70 is performing well I'd stick with that! Your logic of replacing the H70 because it is 3yrs old is unsound, and as long as you use a high quality TIM it will have NO effect on the overall life of the H70
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... LoL Nice to see you finally pulled the trigger on an SSD and the 830 was an excellent choice especially for performance/$$$!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Iceycold*
> 
> Quick question guys, if I can't spend much on Water cooling to get something custom such as the XSPC Rasa 450 RS120 for $110, and I could get an H100 for roughly $70, should I go for it or save the money? I'm currently on an i5-3570k with a coolermaster v6 gt, planning to OC, NZXT phantom case.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Iceycold*
> 
> Is the performance jump from an H80 to a H100 noticable? Well it'll be noticeable but .. is it worth the extra money? Cause an H80 I can get for $50, but if the H100 is a lot better then I'll go for it since it's cheap as well.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Iceycold*
> 
> How much celsius difference is there between a standard push OR pull setup and a push/pull config with teh H100 if anyone knows?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This is really a no-brainer, if the H100 will fit it is the better choice. They perform very similar but for the H80 to keep up with the H100 *it will be signifigantly louder!*(see chart below). FULL review [HERE]! However for the $20 you'd save w/H80 vs H100 you could replace the somewhat noisy fans the H80 uses with the Corsair SP120's [HERE]
> If you go w/H100 depending on the efficiency of your case ventilation and weather your setup is (Top) intake vs exhaust and have an average OC (3570K @ 4.4GHz?), at best you will only see a 1c-2c improvement with push/pull vs push only under "Full Load"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Iceycold*
> 
> What setup do you recommend so it just 'fits"? I currently use a front fan, back fan, 1 big fan on the top (with 1 more space free on the top), and that's about it. No side fan.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If you go w/H100 in a Top Intake push config you'll be fine, but alot of us like the Top/exhaust config to keep the Mobo/Ram cooler and in that case I'd take your 200mm top fan (Phantom 820?) or the 140mm top fan (Phantom 410) and move it to the side as an intake to feed more cool air to the H100 and help ventilate the case overall
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WhiteRice*
> 
> Gentlemen...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Nice setup and temps! That's a killer 3570 you have there ... [email protected] only 1.188v if that cpu-z shot is truly at full load?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... even if Santa didn't bring me a GTX690
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: @ dmanstasiu ... NICE info/GRAPHS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +R
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since when? Having run 940, 955, 965, 1055 and 1100T and having lapped 955 and 965, I can honestly say that I disagree. But if you're meaning that AMD CPU pre-Sandy Bridge run cooler than i7-920 and further you would be correct about that. There isn't a single AMD Phenom II chip that I have owned that runs less than 40c @ Idle unless I have lapped it even then they weren't that cool. I love em alot and wouldn't hesitate to get them again but I don't think they run all that cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


My wifes rig has a Phenom II and it runs at 29c at idle with a Zalman CNP5 air cooler.


----------



## General121

Love the cooler, absolutely hate the Intel backplate!!!


----------



## [email protected]

LOL @ your avatar. Funniest thing i ever saw! PC revenge!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since when? Having run 940, 955, 965, 1055 and 1100T and having lapped 955 and 965, I can honestly say that I disagree. But if you're meaning that AMD CPU pre-Sandy Bridge run cooler than i7-920 and further you would be correct about that. There isn't a single AMD Phenom II chip that I have owned that runs less than 40c @ Idle unless I have lapped it even then they weren't that cool. I love em alot and wouldn't hesitate to get them again but I don't think they run all that cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wifes rig has a Phenom II and it runs at 29c at idle with a Zalman CNP5 air cooler.
Click to expand...

Which one and is she Folding on it 24/7? I wasn't saying that they don't run cool. I was just saying that they really aren't that cool. In relation to Intel CPU, yeah okay they are cooler but...









~Ceadder


----------



## Rivis

Hi, please sign me in








Here´s my rig with a Corsair H80i. I got it when i switched cases, i was using a Corsair H100 with the CM Sniper with the radiator installed on the top of the case but it wouldn´t fit in the Raven RV02. Anyway, temps are about the same.

Some pics:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/826/sam1931o.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/202/sam1932b.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/547/sam1942.jpg/


----------



## OverClocker55

^ add yourself







nice pc. Go to the first page and fill out the form


----------



## Rivis

Thank you! Just did


----------



## jktmas

Well my h80 is literally dead, idk if corsair well replace it, cuz i just took it out of the box and installed it, never filled anything out online our kept any period of purchase or anything, but I've tried it plugged in different ways and everything, won't light up the fan control or run the pump


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceycold*
> 
> I meant H80 and H100, sorry if I wasn't clear.


Still only going to be about three degrees, all things being equal.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> I guess not =/


See my previous post two pages back.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceycold*
> 
> How much celsius difference is there between a standard push OR pull setup and a push/pull config with teh H100 if anyone knows?


You're only looking at a couple of degrees. Corsair George says Corsair tested this in a lab and they got no difference at all. The H100 has a very thin rad, so just push or pull does a great job.


----------



## jprovido

got my FREE H80i from corsair today (long story short got a defective h100i and corsair mistakenly gave me another defective h100i)



so this time I tried out Corsair Link 2 and I was pretty impressed! this is really useful. now my question is about this custom fan settings on the corsair link

is it possible to make it like the "Fan Curve" feature on evga precision x? I want to make it rev up the fans only when it reaches a specific temp. this is a screenshot but these numbers doesn't make sense to me


----------



## Tohru Rokuno

I have a friend that runs AMD, and I picked up an H60 on the OCN Marketplace for a very reasonable price. However, it only came with Intel mounts. I didn't realize it until I got it in my hands, but it's not compatible with the spare AMD mounts I have for my H70. Is the H60 AMD-compatible? If so, where could I get a set of mounts for a good price?


----------



## jprovido

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tohru Rokuno*
> 
> I have a friend that runs AMD, and I picked up an H60 on the OCN Marketplace for a very reasonable price. However, it only came with Intel mounts. I didn't realize it until I got it in my hands, but it's not compatible with the spare AMD mounts I have for my H70. Is the H60 AMD-compatible? If so, where could I get a set of mounts for a good price?


h60, h80 and h100 all has the same mounts for amd cpu's so it's not really hard to find one coz majority of users won't use their amd mounts. coincidentally I also bought an h60 a while back and I didn't know it didn't have an amd mount too. so I stole my cousin's amd mount from a corsiar h100 lol


----------



## turboman

hello
I recently installed an H80i but there were BSOD crashes, and I read on the Corsair forum that Corsair Link is not compatible (yet) with Win 8.

I am thinking now to uninstall Corsaair Link software, disconnect the H80i from USB, run the fans from a fan controller and connect the H80i pump speed signal to a CPU-fan or Case-fan on the motherboard.

Do you think that would work like that? Any problems expected?


----------



## kizwan

You only need to uninstall the software. IMO, unless you want to manually control the fan, you can leave it plugged to H80i CPU block. The pump 3-pin connector should be connected to CPU fan header.


----------



## OverClocker55

Got a H60 now. There is a H80 for 55 on the egg. Should I get it? Would it make a differnce?


----------



## kiwiasian

Build for a friend with an H55. Load temps are low-50s on an i5 3450 @ 3.7 GHz with 20c ambient (IC Diamond TIM, rice grain method)


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Got a H60 now. There is a H80 for 55 on the egg. Should I get it? Would it make a differnce?


IMHO not much, especially with a Sandy Bridge ... if as in your sig 4.5Ghz @ 1.34v? under full load you'll see around a -3c improvement ... at stock almost nothing maybe -1c ... at higher OC's/voltages you may see as much as a -5c improvement BUT then you also get all the noise that comes from an H80 running on "High" to achieve this









I just posted this same info 1 page back ... hope it helps ...



Full Review [HERE]


----------



## jktmas

still disappointed that my H80 is dead, does anyone know how well corsair's rma process works


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> still disappointed that my H80 is dead, does anyone know how well corsair's rma process works


From what I've heard they're great, I wouldn't worry about it. Then again, if your product is within the warranty period and it's a legimitate claim, you have nothing to worry about (except some companies may take longer than others)


----------



## jktmas

it is under warranty and it dosnt work, idk why.
i put everything in the origional box then put that box in another box with padding, then put the label they told me to put on the box, is on that outside box. now i need to go to ups and pay to ship it to the west coast


----------



## Nethermir

RMA is always a PITA but I always get a positive experience with Corsair


----------



## lets overclock

I want to get the H100i and put it in the Thor v2 case http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147158

do you no if it will fit some say yes some say no???


----------



## kizwan

Look here - Rosewill Thor v2 + watercooling: http://www.overclock.net/t/1342639/would-like-to-share-my-new-case-rosewill-thor

That guy managed to fit RX360 radiator up top, very tight, which is thicker than H100i radiator. No mention of any modding though. If no modification, I think you can easily fit H100i radiator + fans up top.


----------



## jpdaballa

Proud owner of the H100i
build log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1343440/build-log-project-hitman/0_100

Soon to be push/pull in a 600t white corsair case


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpdaballa*
> 
> Proud owner of the H100i
> build log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1343440/build-log-project-hitman/0_100
> 
> Soon to be push/pull in a 600t white corsair case


Congrats


----------



## jpdaballa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Congrats


thanks!


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpdaballa*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Congrats
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks!
Click to expand...

How is it preforming? Fans are loud or what?


----------



## Devildog83

I know the Logo is backwards but what the heck.


----------



## OverClocker55

Haha


----------



## Rb78

Hi,

Here's my h70 core.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## TechSilver13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turboman*
> 
> hello
> I recently installed an H80i but there were BSOD crashes, and I read on the Corsair forum that Corsair Link is not compatible (yet) with Win 8.
> 
> I am thinking now to uninstall Corsaair Link software, disconnect the H80i from USB, run the fans from a fan controller and connect the H80i pump speed signal to a CPU-fan or Case-fan on the motherboard.
> 
> Do you think that would work like that? Any problems expected?


I run windows 8 and corsair link runs fine on my system. I upgraded to the H100i

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## jpdaballa

to be honest i havent been able to run them, the CPU hasent came from the intel retail deal yet, still waiting for shipping. hopefully ill test it soon!


----------



## General121

I love my H80i. It can keep a 4.9GHz @ 1.44v i5 2500K 61C max while folding next to a 670 XD


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> I love my H80i. It can keep a 4.9GHz @ 1.44v i5 2500K 61C max while folding next to a 670 XD


What fans and TIM ?


----------



## jellywolf996

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rb78*
> 
> Hi,
> Here's my h70 core.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


it is good im thinking of getting one. would you recommend it, i also have sp120's


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> What fans and TIM ?


The fans that came with it and it did the same with the preapplied paste but currently using arctic silver 5.


----------



## OverClocker55

Just did some testing and with my logisys 120mm rubber fans @ 100% push/pull I get a 28c idle and 41c load. That's with my I5 @ 4.2ghz








Wierd thing is that if I turn the fans on auto they spin faster but get worse temps


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Just did some testing and with my logisys 120mm rubber fans @ 100% push/pull I get a 28c idle and 41c load. That's with my I5 @ 4.2ghz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wierd thing is that if I turn the fans on auto they spin faster but get worse temps


Turbulence in the rad possible ...


----------



## AceRuckus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zackotsu*
> 
> Mine..from NH D-14 to H100i..big difference from performance..currently 5c cooler from my old D-14


Just the post I was looking for! I was debating on running that Noctua cooler or a H100i. How are you running it? Push, pull, or push/pull?


----------



## Zackotsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AceRuckus*
> 
> Just the post I was looking for! I was debating on running that Noctua cooler or a H100i. How are you running it? Push, pull, or push/pull?


i'm running push..a small difference from d-14..at 4.2ghz running on d-14 my idle is around 38-40c while playing bf3 at ultra around 67-70c. On H100i at 4.2ghz my idle is around 33-38c while playing bf3 at ultra around 60-66c..depends on the time of day and the weather..lewl..i live in the Philippines so that would be my normal temps..


----------



## AceRuckus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zackotsu*
> 
> i'm running push..a small difference from d-14..at 4.2ghz running on d-14 my idle is around 38-40c while playing bf3 at ultra around 67-70c. On H100i at 4.2ghz my idle is around 33-38c while playing bf3 at ultra around 60-66c..depends on the time of day and the weather..lewl..i live in the Philippines so that would be my normal temps..


ic. Im only gonna be playing SC2 and WOW. don't think either is as demanding as bf3 though but I do want to oc to 4ghz with a i5 2600. I live in california so temps get really high in the summer.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AceRuckus*
> 
> ic. Im only gonna be playing SC2 and WOW. don't think either is as demanding as bf3 though but I do want to oc to 4ghz with a i5 2600. I live in california so temps get really high in the summer.


i5-2600 ? wut.


----------



## mlibby1980

I bought an h60 from newegg and have to get others feed back on it. The standard screws that came with it will not work for push pull. The ones that mount the cooler to the case where stripped or just not there. they would go down to about 5/8 of the way tightened down. so i stuck a regular fan screws that came with my switch 810 which are a different thread. My temps on a fullload are around 85c with a 3770k with prime95

My question is it says on the box oc temps should be around 65c with 4.6 im at 4.4 and overly higher temps by 20c

Would this be normal or should i return the cooler to newegg?


----------



## ipv89

can I be added I have the corsair h80


----------



## AceRuckus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> i5-2600 ? wut.


my bad -_- i5 2500*


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Hey guys, back again. I once again can honestly say after a few weeks of solid use, the rear grate cutout didn't do much at all, and to be honest, neither did the SP120's. They were worth it because a buddy picked up my old fans for 15 bucks, so I figure 10 bucks for 2 SP120's, well that's just fine.

My next question, its been a LONG time since I have worried about temps and really gave them any mind. I got my i7 920 up at 3.82 GHz, at only 1.176 vcore which is pretty low. With my fans silent, I idle around 40-45, coolest and hottest cores, and with same fan settings I see high 50's low 60's in games (far cry 3 and planetside 2 are all I have been playing recently). Are these temps well within the range I should be looking for? Basically I can turn my fans up to max and save about 5C under game load, but is it really even necessary?


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Hey guys, back again. I once again can honestly say after a few weeks of solid use, the rear grate cutout didn't do much at all, and to be honest, neither did the SP120's. They were worth it because a buddy picked up my old fans for 15 bucks, so I figure 10 bucks for 2 SP120's, well that's just fine.
> My next question, its been a LONG time since I have worried about temps and really gave them any mind. I got my i7 920 up at 3.82 GHz, at only 1.176 vcore which is pretty low. With my fans silent, I idle around 40-45, coolest and hottest cores, and with same fan settings I see high 50's low 60's in games (far cry 3 and planetside 2 are all I have been playing recently). Are these temps well within the range I should be looking for? Basically I can turn my fans up to max and save about 5C under game load, but is it really even necessary?


Low 60s is fine, especially for an intel chip







You have nothing to worry about


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Low 60s is fine, especially for an intel chip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have nothing to worry about


I know its fine, my Vcore is SOOO low for my overclock I know im not goign to have heat issues, i guess my real question is, is it "worth" the hassle of reaching down to my fan controller in order to cool it down a bit more while gaming? lol. Or are the temps perfectly fine?

Also, my gtx 470 peeks up to about 85C as opposed to like 78-80C when I turn my fans up. lol.

I know 4 series cards are built to cook, and really 85c for a 470 running 730 core 1170 mem at .950v isn't that bad either. I think these new fans and case mods really showed me what a quiet PC can sound like, and I just hate making it loud again, even for a few C cooler temps.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> I know its fine, my Vcore is SOOO low for my overclock I know im not goign to have heat issues, i guess my real question is, is it "worth" the hassle of reaching down to my fan controller in order to cool it down a bit more while gaming? lol. Or are the temps perfectly fine?
> Also, my gtx 470 peeks up to about 85C as opposed to like 78-80C when I turn my fans up. lol.
> I know 4 series cards are built to cook, and really 85c for a 470 running 730 core 1170 mem at .950v isn't that bad either. I think these new fans and case mods really showed me what a quiet PC can sound like, and I just hate making it loud again, even for a few C cooler temps.


CPU temps are fine

GPU temps are a bit higher than I'd like to run 24/7, but they're perfectly safe. If you have an AIO cooler laying around, you could do the Green mod and completely drop the temps


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> CPU temps are fine
> GPU temps are a bit higher than I'd like to run 24/7, but they're perfectly safe. If you have an AIO cooler laying around, you could do the Green mod and completely drop the temps


I don't game often, and when im not gamine the idle temp is about 45-50c, which these days is about 90% of my computers time, basically just idle. I don't fold anymore (will start again when I am out of college and don't need to worry as much about electrical bills and such







.

What is an AIO cooler, and what is the green mod?

I was thinking of reseating my 470 with AC5 (i think the previous owner, my friend, already did at once point, but not sure) and maybe pulling the stock heatsink shroud off and throwing a 80 mill fan on it right over the heatsink, although im worried as to what that would do to my CPU temp, it would sure throw A LOT of heat into my case.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> I don't game often, and when im not gamine the idle temp is about 45-50c, which these days is about 90% of my computers time, basically just idle. I don't fold anymore (will start again when I am out of college and don't need to worry as much about electrical bills and such
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> What is an AIO cooler, and what is the green mod?
> I was thinking of reseating my 470 with AC5 (i think the previous owner, my friend, already did at once point, but not sure) and maybe pulling the stock heatsink shroud off and throwing a 80 mill fan on it right over the heatsink, although im worried as to what that would do to my CPU temp, it would sure throw A LOT of heat into my case.


Examples of an AIO (All-in-one cooler) include H60, Kuhler 620, Swiftech H20, etc. The Green Mod involves using these AIO ~$50 coolers to cool the GPUs. GPUs (even the 470) put out significantly less "heat" than CPUs, and an H60 manages to cool a GPU better than a CPU.

Official OCN club with all the info you need









http://www.overclock.net/t/1203528/official-nvidia-gpu-mod-club-aka-the-mod/0_100


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Examples of an AIO (All-in-one cooler) include H60, Kuhler 620, Swiftech H20, etc. The Green Mod involves using these AIO ~$50 coolers to cool the GPUs. GPUs (even the 470) put out significantly less "heat" than CPUs, and an H60 manages to cool a GPU better than a CPU.
> Official OCN club with all the info you need
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1203528/official-nvidia-gpu-mod-club-aka-the-mod/0_100


O yea I have heard/seen that done a few times. I just always figured GPU's dumped more heat than CPU's so it would kinda be pointless, guess this might change everything. Thanks for the info! might need to do this!


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> O yea I have heard/seen that done a few times. I just always figured GPU's dumped more heat than CPU's so it would kinda be pointless, guess this might change everything. Thanks for the info! might need to do this!


An H100 is about on-par with the top air coolers ... and the majority of GPU users use H60s / Kuhler 620's. It's weird, but eh. It works somehow


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> An H100 is about on-par with the top air coolers ... and the majority of GPU users use H60s / Kuhler 620's. It's weird, but eh. It works somehow


Im seriously about to buy a new water cooler for this setup. LOL. Question is, im thinking of using my h50 to cool my video card as it, well to be honest just isn't as important to me as my CPU (GPU is really built to get hot....). Im looking at either a h60 or maybe potentially a kuhler 620. Granted this is the corsair h-series thread, any idea which might cool my CPU a bit better, the h60 or the kuhler? Also, any idea if it would really be worth "splurging" on say a h70/80 for my current CPU? My next PC im planning to do true watercooling on everything, CPU,GPU, mobo... the whole 9 yards, so im not really worried about future proofing with this option.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Im seriously about to buy a new water cooler for this setup. LOL. Question is, im thinking of using my h50 to cool my video card as it, well to be honest just isn't as important to me as my CPU (GPU is really built to get hot....). Im looking at either a h60 or maybe potentially a kuhler 620. Granted this is the corsair h-series thread, any idea which might cool my CPU a bit better, the h60 or the kuhler? Also, any idea if it would really be worth "splurging" on say a h70/80 for my current CPU? My next PC im planning to do true watercooling on everything, CPU,GPU, mobo... the whole 9 yards, so im not really worried about future proofing with this option.


If you're planning on overclocking your new CPU, then just buy the loop now, save your money (don't buy an H80), and you can use the loop on both systems.

That being said, the H60 and Kuhler 620 are both fine for GPUs, grab whichever one is cheapest. I got my 920 for $48 so ... shop wisely


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> If you're planning on overclocking your new CPU, then just buy the loop now, save your money (don't buy an H80), and you can use the loop on both systems.
> That being said, the H60 and Kuhler 620 are both fine for GPUs, grab whichever one is cheapest. I got my 920 for $48 so ... shop wisely


I can't build the loop now, I would want all nice waterblocks and such, and I just can't justify dropping that cash on a 3 and a half year old system.

And where did you get a 920 for 48!?!

Neweggs got a h50 for 49, h60 for 59. Hmmm.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> I can't build the loop now, I would want all nice waterblocks and such, and I just can't justify dropping that cash on a 3 and a half year old system.
> And where did you get a 920 for 48!?!
> Neweggs got a h50 for 49, h60 for 59. Hmmm.


Oh, $58 I guess. $70 at NCIX (Canada) with tax, $78. Minus $20 MIR, and I had $10 NCIX credit

Get universal GPU blocks and they'll fit on your next build


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Oh, $58 I guess. $70 at NCIX (Canada) with tax, $78. Minus $20 MIR, and I had $10 NCIX credit
> Get universal GPU blocks and they'll fit on your next build


lol, yea universal blocks would work, but im just not there yet. Don't want a ridiculous water loop when I have to take my PC with me to and from school a few times a year. To worried about it spilling/leaking and just general issues. One day it will happen. Im thinking I should have not wasted 25 bucks on my fan controller and looked into this idea more seriously before, cuz with this setup who needs a fan controller. LOL.


----------



## JAM3S121

Questions guys, I have the h100 right now and want to set up push/pull.

First off I have no clue if I should mount the top fans for push/pull above the top panel or mounting the radiator by screwing the top fans into the bottm of the top panel? (does this make sense? the switch 810 has room to mount fans inside the top panel which is not in in the case, but it under the top panel plastic piece.

My case has clearance for either.. just not sure which to use.

Right now I h ave 2 fans secured to the bottom of the radiator using the longer set of screws ( I only have 4 so 2 each fan I must of lost the others..) and the top of the rad is secured to the top of the case panel with the short screws and washers. I can't find the longer screws and I'm not even sure if those are the right size.

Are these what I would need to screw it all in? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16761/scr-03/XSPC_6-32_Replacement_Radiator_Screw_Pack_-_Black_-_8_Pack_4_x_5mm_and_4_x_30mm.html?tl=g55c479s1482 Thanks.


----------



## 8bitclocker

Add me, i own a h100 you can find it in my rig pics.


----------



## Zackotsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AceRuckus*
> 
> my bad -_- i5 2500*


so it's not a K series? h100i would be overkill as you can't really OC much the non-k series..h80i would do for you or even the h60..but if you prefer the looks then get the h100i..lewl..


----------



## Pedros

I'm about to buy a H80i







My question is, i have a pair of Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000rpm fans laying around. Will i get any benefit, in terms of cooling performance, of swapping the stock fans with these ones?


----------



## General121

Do these h series coolers easily attach to 670s?


----------



## Raiden911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Do these h series coolers easily attach to 670s?


yep, i got my bracket for H60 to be used on a different gpu, but its the same concept.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1237219/tript-cc-620-920-h50-h70-gpu-brackets-fan-grills-custom-case-badges


----------



## MerkageTurk

just got the h100i today.

overclocked my 2500k to 4.6 and 1.3v could do a little better with vaults however i just used the asus oc tuner profile

temps idle: 27c-33c

temps P95 for 10 hours : 40c-45c

within the 800d


----------



## mlibby1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedros*
> 
> I'm about to buy a H80i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My question is, i have a pair of Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000rpm fans laying around. Will i get any benefit, in terms of cooling performance, of swapping the stock fans with these ones?


Yes if you push pull it should drop your temps by about 5 to 8c or atleast did with my h100


----------



## JAM3S121

anyone know the szie of the screw needed for push/pull thanks.


----------



## mlibby1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> anyone know the szie of the screw needed for push/pull thanks.


6/32 x 1.25 inches long


----------



## Rayce185

Would an H80i in a push/pull setup suffice to clock a delidded 3570K to a stable 5GHz?


----------



## JAM3S121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mlibby1980*
> 
> 6/32 x 1.25 inches long


and that size screw will fit through the fan, my top panel of my case and the rad to secure it? thanks.


----------



## JAM3S121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Would an H80i in a push/pull setup suffice to clock a 3570K to a stable 5GHz?


I don't think so, I heard ivy bridge can get to 4.5ghz pretty easily but after that the amount of vcore needed takes a huge step.


----------



## mlibby1980

yes that would work fine. assuming you have a normal size fan normal being 25mm thick


----------



## JAM3S121

Awesome, +rep I guess I lost my spare screws for my h100 though


----------



## mlibby1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Would an H80i in a push/pull setup suffice to clock a 3570K to a stable 5GHz?


i would not suggest running a h80 on a 3750k at that speed. I have a h60 that is being sent back to newegg that is peaking my temps at 80c on a 3770k at oc 4.6 according to corsairs website and box my temp should be at 67c which is no way thats happening. The old style h100 might. i used it on a 8130 that was overclocked to 4.7 and peaked temps of 46c which was decent but intel does run hotter or atleast the ivy bridge


----------



## mlibby1980

local menards or home depot have them for about .10 cents each :-D


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mlibby1980*
> 
> i would not suggest running a h80 on a 3750k at that speed. I have a h60 that is being sent back to newegg that is peaking my temps at 80c on a 3770k at oc 4.6 according to corsairs website and box my temp should be at 67c which is no way thats happening. The old style h100 might. i used it on a 8130 that was overclocked to 4.7 and peaked temps of 46c which was decent but intel does run hotter or atleast the ivy bridge


Yes but you have a 3770k and he has a 3570k. Yours will run hotter than his naturally. Ive had this h80i keep an almost rock solid 4.9ghz 2500K under 70C, with it mostluy staying around 60C and then creeping up.


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> I don't think so, I heard ivy bridge can get to 4.5ghz pretty easily but after that the amount of vcore needed takes a huge step.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Yes but you have a 3770k and he has a 3570k. Yours will run hotter than his naturally. Ive had this h80i keep an almost rock solid 4.9ghz 2500K under 70C, with it mostluy staying around 60C and then creeping up.


Sry I fixed my post. It will be *delidded*, which should lower the temps.

And no I don't have the setup yet, but I'm gathering intel for my next build. Pun intended


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedros*
> 
> I'm about to buy a H80i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My question is, i have a pair of Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000rpm fans laying around. Will i get any benefit, in terms of cooling performance, of swapping the stock fans with these ones?


If you do that, I would love to see a test between just the stock fans in pull or push, and then the push pull setup with your Scythe fans, both under load (prime95 or Intel Burn Test).

The H100 has a very thin rad, and so any tests done so far between push or pull and push/pull have shown a very low temperature difference, if any. Corsair did lab tests between push and push/pull and got no difference at all. If you decide to test it, please post the results here for us to see.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> and that size screw will fit through the fan, my top panel of my case and the rad to secure it? thanks.


That's the size of the screws that come with the H100. If you need longer ones, then purchase them longer. You might have to file them down or use washers if you purchase them too long. The original screws are made to go through a mesh, fan and into the rad. I bought a box of them from Home Hardware for a couple of bucks.


----------



## Rb78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellywolf996*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rb78*
> 
> Hi,
> Here's my h70 core.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> it is good im thinking of getting one. would you recommend it, i also have sp120's
Click to expand...

Dfntly ! here's temp at idle(sp120 set to low speed), will post soon a stress test temps.
Sp120 is a little bit loud at full speed, but works fine at low speed.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 8bitclocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rb78*
> 
> Dfntly ! here's temp at idle(sp120 set to low speed), will post soon a stress test temps.
> Sp120 is a little bit loud at full speed, but works fine at low speed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Core temp isn't the type of software you'd want to use for accurate core temps, real temp would be a better and accurate choice to monitor your cpu temperature.


----------



## Rayce185

Is there a way of replacing these nearly unbendable, too short tubes against others, *without* spilling all the coolant?


----------



## gian84

hi! I'd like to join the club! here's my H100i


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gian84*
> 
> hi! I'd like to join the club! here's my H100i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Go to page 1 and submit yourself. Then you are in!


----------



## skitz9417

heres my h60 http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/248/cam00011c.jpg/


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gian84*
> 
> hi! I'd like to join the club! here's my H100i


Oh wow I didn't realize how nice the H100*i*'s waterblocks were. Where's the 3-pump setting selection then ?


----------



## jellywolf996

The settings have moved to software. So you dont have to open the side to change settings.


----------



## gian84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Go to page 1 and submit yourself. Then you are in!


Just did. Thanks! Nice thread!


----------



## gian84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Oh wow I didn't realize how nice the H100*i*'s waterblocks were. Where's the 3-pump setting selection then ?


The pump and fans can be monitored and adjusted through the Corsair Link software.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedros*
> 
> I'm about to buy a H80i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My question is, i have a pair of Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000rpm fans laying around. Will i get any benefit, in terms of cooling performance, of swapping the stock fans with these ones?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> If you do that, I would love to see a test between just the stock fans in pull or push, and then the push pull setup with your Scythe fans, both under load (prime95 or Intel Burn Test).
> The H100 has a very thin rad, and so any tests done so far between push or pull and push/pull have shown a very low temperature difference, if any. Corsair did lab tests between push and push/pull and got no difference at all. If you decide to test it, please post the results here for us to see.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> That's the size of the screws that come with the H100. If you need longer ones, then purchase them longer. You might have to file them down or use washers if you purchase them too long. The original screws are made to go through a mesh, fan and into the rad. I bought a box of them from Home Hardware for a couple of bucks.


Sorry man, missed the H80i there, and was talking about the H100. Caught it in another post of yours. I think on the thicker rad of the H80 you would see a difference, but it's hard to say exactly how much. If you test it, please post your results for us.


----------



## jprovido

proud owner of the corsair H80i. I love the corsair link 2 software!


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jprovido*
> 
> proud owner of the corsair H80i. I love the corsair link 2 software!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Congrats


----------



## jprovido

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Congrats


I actually had a corsair H100i before. pump died and rma'd it. corsair mistakenly gave me another defective one so I was pissed. when I called they told me there's no stock anymore. I was fuming but they compensated me by giving me a free H80i and a corsair product of my choice with similar value. I got a corsair vengeance k90







twas a hassle at first but corsair is awesome as always.

temps were identical from my move to the H100i to the H80i though. felt like I'm using the same cooler. max OC still the same and temps at full load remained almost the same(maybe a 1-3 degrees difference I'm not really sure lol)


----------



## hakz

^ grats mate.


----------



## gian84

Just want to ask, how often do you guys clean the radiator, say if you use the pc 3-4 hrs a day?


----------



## jprovido

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gian84*
> 
> Just want to ask, how often do you guys clean the radiator, say if you use the pc 3-4 hrs a day?


I clean it as much as I can maybe once every 2-3 days. I'm not takign it apart or anything. just spraying at it with a can of air whenever I feel like it. it stays nice and clean that way


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gian84*
> 
> Just want to ask, how often do you guys clean the radiator, say if you use the pc 3-4 hrs a day?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jprovido*
> 
> I clean it as much as I can maybe once every 2-3 days. I'm not takign it apart or anything. just spraying at it with a can of air whenever I feel like it. it stays nice and clean that way


I clean the radiator every 2-3 months. I only removed the radiator with the CPU block still attached to the CPU when cleaning it. Caution was exercised.

Compressed air can is a good tool for cleaning radiator. I don't know why this never came across my mind though.


----------



## gian84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I clean the radiator every 2-3 months. I only removed the radiator with the CPU block still attached to the CPU when cleaning it. Caution was exercised.
> Compressed air can is a good tool for cleaning radiator. I don't know why this never came across my mind though.


I might do just that then, remove and clean it every 3 months but use canned air maybe every week or so without removing it just to minimize dust accumulation. Thanks guys!


----------



## skitz9417

heres my h60 http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/248/cam00011c.jpg/


----------



## rexbinary

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Compressed air can is a good tool for cleaning radiator. I don't know why this never came across my mind though.


Don't waste money on canned air. For the price of a few cans this thing blows them away. (No pun intended)









Seriously, this was one of the best purchases I ever made. I saw some guys talking about it on HardOCP forums.

http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW

Check out the video in the review section, just scroll down a bit.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gian84*
> 
> Just want to ask, how often do you guys clean the radiator, say if you use the pc 3-4 hrs a day?


That depends on your environment and your case. If your case has dust filters, and you're in a fairly clean environment, you could go a year without cleaning it. On the other hand, if you have no filters and you're in a fairly dusty environment, you may want to clean it every few months. I use a vacuum cleaner first, and an air compressor or canned air after getting out everything you can with the vacuum.

My case has filters that filter out all but the finest dust, so I don't need to clean it out for almost a year, but generally I clean my case every three or four months anyway, and I usually give my rad a quick clean while I'm at it even though it doesn't really need it. My PC is on about 7 hours a day, and more on weekends and holidays.

Canned air is not a waste of money. We have compressors, vacuums as well as canned air where I work, and each has its uses. There are lots of nooks and crannies a vacuum cleaner can't get to.


----------



## Erick Silver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gian84*
> 
> Just want to ask, how often do you guys clean the radiator, say if you use the pc 3-4 hrs a day?


What is this "3-4 hrs a day" thing you speak of? I can't remember the last time i was on the computer that little.


----------



## theJaybo

Hey guys. Im at a turning point. Unhappy about the high cpu temps not of the H80 itself (i love it) but of the H80 compared to almost everyone else with H80's out there.

System;

Recently RMA'd (new) i7-3820
New Asus Rampage IV Formula
Asus Radeon HD7850
Corsair Vengeance (4x4gb) @ 1600mhz
Corsair HX1050, Bottom mount, Fan Down (intake)
- this doesnt really matter as the HX1050 Gold doesn't spin until hot and then its an exhaust anyway, I have spot on the bottom of the case that intakes cool air right where it sits.
Corsair H80 w/ stock fans set to high.
-tried mounting with rad hoses on top, bottom, intake and exhaust, currently running it outside the case for testing.
Intel 330 Series 180gb SSD (boot)
OCZ Agility 3 240GB (data)
WD 2TB Black (data)
Coolermaster Stacker STC-T01-UW w/ 3 - 4x3 modules (each has 120mm fan intake in front)
Nortua NT-H1 Thermal Paste

No cables in the way.

Currently testing 4.3ghz Stable at 43x100 with ddr at 1600mhz, Auto voltage (1.38v loaded priming)

My ideal speed is 4.625 based on my benchmarking each speed from stock to 4.875ghz. This gives a balance of vcore/temps and a reasonable boost in speed.

Ambient ~20.5c

Best Idle temp at this speed is Avg 40c (across all 4 cores)
Best Max temp at this speed during prime + furmark is Avg ~73c (~78-80c max core)

Im nowhere near what people are getting at these ambient temps. This is even with the rad and fans outside the case.

The H80 just cant carry the head away from the cpu any better than 40c idle, Avg 73c max. My highest core gets to ~78-80c.

Stock i7-3820 not overclocked I get about 32c idle, 68c max

Any Ideas? Even ~5-10c better max temp would be nice.

Ive reseated the block 4 times, with all similar temps. I wonder if its just not seating right or is my pump on the way out?

I *MAY* have applied too much thermal paste.... could that skew my temps 10-15 degrees ?

Thanks guys..


----------



## theJaybo

Update:

Converted push/pull over rad to intake instead of exhaust.
Reseated waterblock, cleaned with alcohol and indeed I had too much thermal paste, put just a dab and puter' back in.

Priming now. Preliminary results show no Improvement, in fact I think I'm 1-2c higher now.


----------



## kizwan

I can't help you because I have H100. I can't comment your load temps because I have not yet overclocked over 4.6GHz but your idle temps does a bit high in that ambient. My ambient currently is 31C & idle temps are 36C to 39C.

I have no experience with Nortua NT-H1 Thermal Paste but usually TIM(s) does not work well if applied too much. It increased thermal resistance I think. Or probably it's not problem with TIM but maybe bad airflow. For case cooling I use negative pressure concept. Positive pressure is not suitable in my ambient because it will only trap hot air in the casing.


----------



## mlibby1980

I have the h60 which will be rma for a return tomorrow am when ups picks it up. I had the original h100 with ultra scythe fans on a 8130 that was stock of 3100 mhz over clocked to 4.6mhz and vcore of 1.38
my temps never peaked 45c with push pull. I had swapped out the h60 for the NZXT Kraken X60 which is a 280mm all in one cooler. i wont have that till wednesday but going to run some test on it. The h60 h80 and h100 honestly have a hard time cooling the new intel cpu. i have the 3770k oc to 4.6 at 1.25vcore and my room temp is probably 15c (from Minnesota and its freezing here) and mine temps out at 68c to 80c. currently at 38 to 40 on all cores.

Not a fan of corsair Coolers after this last one


----------



## theJaybo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I can't help you because I have H100. I can't comment your load temps because I have not yet overclocked over 4.6GHz but your idle temps does a bit high in that ambient. My ambient currently is 31C & idle temps are 36C to 39C.
> I have no experience with Nortua NT-H1 Thermal Paste but usually TIM(s) does not work well if applied too much. It increased thermal resistance I think. Or probably it's not problem with TIM but maybe bad airflow. For case cooling I use negative pressure concept. Positive pressure is not suitable in my ambient because it will only trap hot air in the casing.


thx for the reply. The TIM reapplication has has no affect.

I switched to intake over the rad as my ambient is 20-21c. Ive stabilized @ 38c avg idle. This is at 4.3ghz oc, but auto voltage ~1.38v in windows.

Ill go back to my stock profile and see what my temps are like.

Edit: Stock 3.6ghz, idle avg temp 33c. But thats due to speed step.


----------



## theJaybo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mlibby1980*
> 
> I have the h60 which will be rma for a return tomorrow am when ups picks it up. I had the original h100 with ultra scythe fans on a 8130 that was stock of 3100 mhz over clocked to 4.6mhz and vcore of 1.38
> my temps never peaked 45c with push pull. I had swapped out the h60 for the NZXT Kraken X60 which is a 280mm all in one cooler. i wont have that till wednesday but going to run some test on it. The h60 h80 and h100 honestly have a hard time cooling the new intel cpu. i have the 3770k oc to 4.6 at 1.25vcore and my room temp is probably 15c (from Minnesota and its freezing here) and mine temps out at 68c to 80c. currently at 38 to 40 on all cores.
> Not a fan of corsair Coolers after this last one


Im in Manitoba (just north in Canada). My ambient is 20-21c. How do you live with 15c ambient







? Or the computer in the corner of the room against outside wall and you are seeing lower temps than the "average" of what the thermostat is showing?

You saw 45c loaded temps (prime, ibt etc) thats amazing. My case is really old and the intake fans suck, but thats 1/2 of what I see loaded.


----------



## mlibby1980

45 is at idle and umm my room is probably 65 to 70 Fahrenheit . during prime its at 80c and thats after 2 minutes


----------



## theJaybo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mlibby1980*
> 
> over clocked to 4.6ghz and vcore of 1.38
> my temps never peaked 45c with push pull.


I assumed that meant loaded, as 45c idle is high.


----------



## opforwarrior

I'm running Prime95 and Memtest89 v4,2 on my 1st build (also my 1st NEW computer since a 1994 starmax apple clone... i'm always running two gen behind... still waiting to play Crysis for 1st time)

I purchased a h50 and Antec 902 case 3 years ago, then put off the build because of reported heat issues on core i-7 and gtx 400-500 series cards.

Continuing to limp alng with a c2d e6600 on an intel mobo in a generic box, that I got from CompUSA's training room, when they went under (2007?). I download usenet vids and game (steam) on it. (+GTX 260 SP 216)

Current Build

Core i-5 3570K CPU
Intel Z77GA-70K Extreme mobo
Corsair VengenceLP DDR3 1600 16GB kit (4x4GB) (CML16GX3M4A1600C9b) *certified w/mobo
H50 Cooler w/ x2 Couger Vortex HDB Fans (1200RPM , 60cfm, 1.73mmH2O, 17.7db)
EVGA FTW GTX 660 ti Superclock 3GB w/ Backplate
Seagate 1TB sata II + Intel 520 120GB (RST & READYBOOST Partitions)
Corsair TX850 PSU
Antec 902 Case

H50 is mounted push/pull intake from the rear fan mount. Rad is oriented tubes down (I'm a hydraulics specialist in the real world).
Room is 23c ambient. TIM is stock. It runs cold. I have an infrared thermometer to verify reported temps.

Prime95 CPU temp (multiple tests 10min -3 hrs)
idletemp: 22c +/-
torture @ stock 3.4ghz: 52c +/- (stable -no fail)
torture @ oc 4.5ghz: 62c +/- (stable -no fail)

The air exhausting from the H50 radiator is 3 degrees celcius warmer than intake air. The rad itself does not get hotter than ambient. The case is not warmed by the exhaust, in fact with the side door off, the fans blow cold air directly onto my face, it cools the mainboard components aswell. The Couger fans are silent, when i put my head into the case i can only hear the antec branded 120mm front fans and the BigBoy 200mm above. My GTX 660 ti, at idle runs +10 degrees above ambient, much cooler than my GTX 260. The TX 850 PSU is amazing compared to the TX 750's I have. Under full Prime95, the fan doesn't even spin up (85 F-101 F). The hottest spots on the mobo are the bridgechip, RAm and capacitors (30-35c)

I'm a noob at this oc'ing and tuning. Intel visual bios was simple but i read, underwhelming and conservative in oc'ing compared to other mobo's. As a noob, I'm ok with that. I was very impressed with the quality of my old DQ965GF board. It's been running 24/7/365 and constantly downloading/gaming/surfing/dataserving for 5 years with only a few reboots/year. I'm passing the old rig onto my daughter, who's six and gaming on my wifes casual steam games already.

_________ One Question ?___________

The ram is reporting as 0.74-0.75 volts in Intel Desktop Utilities. Bios specs are asking for 1.5v. I troubleshot the RAM in pairs both syncronous and asyncronous modes and swapped , looking for a bad one. I changed oc speed from 1333 to 1600 and back again, used automatic and XMP profiles... no change in voltage. I did update the bios when i installed the OS, which required a CMOS purge by removing the battery to get it to reboot after the bios update. Can anyone give me more insight into this ram voltage issue. Google is of no help, searching for undervoltage and underclocking only gives advice on intentional downclocking... not unintentional. Searching for an arbitrary voltage like 0.75v doenst find searchstrings for alternate undervoltages like 0.76v. I have a support ticket in with Corsair RAMguy. Maybe you guys can save me days on the phone talking to intel. Has passed Memtest86 v4.2 . [ Doing more research I realised the "LP" designator on the RAM is "low power".. but it should be 1.35v ... or is 0.75 v normal? Is the intel software giving me a bad reading? ... why does the bios report 1.5v instead of 1.35v LP?]



This is during torture test Prime95 with side doors installed, fans on minimum.



Just figured out how to use the fan control in the bios. Pump and fans (1200 RPM) now run at full speed. Is that the proper pump rate for the H50 or should i turn ot down?

[Images below of idle and full torture. NOW 10c cooler at full load. The pump had been running 800 RPM and inner fan @ 800 RPM ******ing flow rates].




Here is a final torture test with CPU overclocked by bios slider to 4.5Ghz (Note: 20c cooler than 1st OC attempt with improper fan and pump setting)



________________ Last Thoughts_______

There are many variables when setting up the watercool option. Proper case venting, fan choice, TIM application, bracket tightness, fan speed , pump speed, ambient temps, CPU TDP, proper radiator orientation to prevent cavitation by entrained air within the fluid... all contribute to differing results. Your "milage may vary" in proportion to the good sense with which you drive.

To the "particular individuals" who continue to advocate aircoolers by the reasoning the do not want "all that hot air blowing onto my components" ... where the hell do you think all the heat dissapated by your precious aircooler is going? To the guys who are exhasting the air rather than intaking 1) get a modern case to fix your flow problems 2) Stop, ignoring the engineers advice and then having the to gall to complain. To the guys scraping the TIM off and lapping new products... You have no clue. A carpenters straight edge? Are you for real? I have 20 years experience with lapped sealing faces. I have ABLAP diamond lapps (1 lightband flatness), monochromatic light sources and optical flats for checking flatness. Do you? .. But why would I do that to factory new materials? The engineers at Intel & Corsair have produced a finished product to specification... and it works. Any defects will not be fixed by your heavyhanded and improper technique with materials less flat than what you started with. BTW, professionals do not use sandpaper of any grit for a mirror finish, they use an oiled "anti-corrosion" brown paper on a flat backing ( ie heavy fine glass).

This has been fun....

Friend me on steam
=(eG)= OPFORWARRIOR
(dod:s division)


----------



## OverClocker55

So because this thread is so great I'm going to be giving away my H60







Anyone who has been in this thread helping will be put on the draw list. Once I get my WC setup of course. Couple weeks xD


----------



## mlibby1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theJaybo*
> 
> I assumed that meant loaded, as 45c idle is high.


its all good i cant do push pull with this rad main reason its going back the screw holes on the side that mounts to the case where not there so i put a thicker fan screw in it and holding it. idle is anywhere from 37c to low 50c usually around 46c


----------



## Erick Silver

Nice Giveaway OC!!! I look forward to installing that H60 into my wifes computer!


----------



## MerkageTurk

i believe people are looking for excuses to RMA in order to get the new X60, X40 or Swiftech; from my point of view all i did was install the H100i using the instructions and 4.6ghz overclock with idle around 22C-30c and full load between 38C - 47c with 1.34v


----------



## ez12a

I picked up a h100i over the winter break. Max temps at load are 73C with prime95. Idle hovers around 36-39C. It was a huge improvement over the h50 I had before (but the h50 was also full of dust that I couldnt get to without removing the shrouds and fans.

Small improvement over the h100 my friend had paired with this system when he owned it. I really dont have any pictures, but I do have an installation video:


----------



## svtfmook

i'm thinking of returning my h100i, i am full of disappointment with the corsair debacle.

my temps are great, the h100i looks awesome, but link software just doesn't work. number 1, there is no information stating that corsair does not support windows 8, number 2, on corsair's own web forums there are numerous, and i mean like 80% of the posts there are customers with issues of link software not working, usb driver not installing, fan control not working, etc. and corsair doesn't seem to be doing anything about it.

i sat on hold for over 30 minutes trying to buy an ax760i power supply the week of christmas and i eventually hung up because no one at corsair answered, i later found out they were closed. i ended up getting an hx750 instead from the egg, thank god because i find out the hard way that i can't use the link software. i was then told to fill out a rma survey and customer service will take care of me because i wasn't aware that they were closed (they never mentioned it in the half hour of corsair advertisements i listened to). again, never heard anything from them.

i don't think corsair knows what to do about the link software, if you can get it to install, it doesn't see the cooler, if it sees the cooler, you can't control fans, if everything happens to work, it crashes iastor.sys for god knows why. and if you have windows 8, don't bother getting the "i" anything corsair, they don't support windows 8, but, nothing is documented saying that, just tech support will tell you that when you call them asking why you can't get the options you paid a premium for to work.


----------



## jellywolf996

Which is better the h80i or h100. Its for a i7 950. I would like to overclock but not sure how much yet. Nothing to high.


----------



## svtfmook

the h100 would be better since it has the larger radiator.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svtfmook*
> 
> i'm thinking of returning my h100i, i am full of disappointment with the corsair debacle.
> my temps are great, the h100i looks awesome, but link software just doesn't work. number 1, there is no information stating that corsair does not support windows 8, number 2, on corsair's own web forums there are numerous, and i mean like 80% of the posts there are customers with issues of link software not working, usb driver not installing, fan control not working, etc. and corsair doesn't seem to be doing anything about it.
> i sat on hold for over 30 minutes trying to buy an ax760i power supply the week of christmas and i eventually hung up because no one at corsair answered, i later found out they were closed. i ended up getting an hx750 instead from the egg, thank god because i find out the hard way that i can't use the link software. i was then told to fill out a rma survey and customer service will take care of me because i wasn't aware that they were closed (they never mentioned it in the half hour of corsair advertisements i listened to). again, never heard anything from them.
> i don't think corsair knows what to do about the link software, if you can get it to install, it doesn't see the cooler, if it sees the cooler, you can't control fans, if everything happens to work, it crashes iastor.sys for god knows why. and if you have windows 8, don't bother getting the "i" anything corsair, they don't support windows 8, but, nothing is documented saying that, just tech support will tell you that when you call them asking why you can't get the options you paid a premium for to work.


I've got a H80i and a AX760i and they're working perfectly with Windows 8 Pro 64bit.


----------



## jellywolf996

I cant push pull with a h100.


----------



## svtfmook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I've got a H80i and a AX760i and they're working perfectly with Windows 8 Pro 64bit.


i can get link to work, but i cannot see the h100i in link, i cannot see fan speeds in link, i cannot update the h100i firmware in link. i installed and ran link 2.1.1 and 2.2 in windows 7 compatibility mode, with the same results. corsair tells me its because i'm using windows 8 and they don't support it.

which version of link are you using? which usb driver?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

I'm using CorsairLINK 2.2, Corsair Hydro USB is showing version 2.0.0 and the H80i firmware is 1.0.4.



Sorry you're having problems but it works fine for me.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theJaybo*
> 
> Hey guys. Im at a turning point. Unhappy about the high cpu temps not of the H80 itself (i love it) but of the H80 compared to almost everyone else with H80's out there.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> System;
> Recently RMA'd (new) i7-3820
> New Asus Rampage IV Formula
> Asus Radeon HD7850
> Corsair Vengeance (4x4gb) @ 1600mhz
> Corsair HX1050, Bottom mount, Fan Down (intake)
> - this doesnt really matter as the HX1050 Gold doesn't spin until hot and then its an exhaust anyway, I have spot on the bottom of the case that intakes cool air right where it sits.
> Corsair H80 w/ stock fans set to high.
> -tried mounting with rad hoses on top, bottom, intake and exhaust, currently running it outside the case for testing.
> Intel 330 Series 180gb SSD (boot)
> OCZ Agility 3 240GB (data)
> WD 2TB Black (data)
> Coolermaster Stacker STC-T01-UW w/ 3 - 4x3 modules (each has 120mm fan intake in front)
> Nortua NT-H1 Thermal Paste
> No cables in the way.
> Currently testing 4.3ghz Stable at 43x100 with ddr at 1600mhz, Auto voltage (1.38v loaded priming)
> My ideal speed is 4.625 based on my benchmarking each speed from stock to 4.875ghz. This gives a balance of vcore/temps and a reasonable boost in speed.
> Ambient ~20.5c
> Best Idle temp at this speed is Avg 40c (across all 4 cores)
> Best Max temp at this speed during prime + furmark is Avg ~73c (~78-80c max core)
> Im nowhere near what people are getting at these ambient temps. This is even with the rad and fans outside the case.
> The H80 just cant carry the head away from the cpu any better than 40c idle, Avg 73c max. My highest core gets to ~78-80c.
> Stock i7-3820 not overclocked I get about 32c idle, 68c max
> Any Ideas? Even ~5-10c better max temp would be nice.
> Ive reseated the block 4 times, with all similar temps. I wonder if its just not seating right or is my pump on the way out?
> I *MAY* have applied too much thermal paste.... could that skew my temps 10-15 degrees ?
> Thanks guys..


Nicely presented (complete) info! While your temps are reasonable, I agree they certainly don't match up performance wise w/other H80 users even considerering the hotter running X79 platform.
My 1st thought was mounting, but it seems you addressed this with several remounts ... but many have had signifigant improvement with an extra crank of the mounting screws, it may seem like your overtightening , but try an added 1/4 turn beyond what feels normal/secure ... but be careful use good judgement. Also on the next mount check the H80 block and CPU for excessive concave/convex deformities with a straightedge ... you may be a candidate for "Lapping" your block and/or CPU-HS .... I noticed you RMA'd your 3820 once already? Maybe there is a hard to detect excessive heat problem with your mobo?, your temp drops at idle showed typical improvement when you re-enabled "speed step" I'd leave it enabled for 24/7 OC. Check your load temps again with just P95, without Furmark also running as that really stresses the mobo/etc in addition to the cpu and is generating NoN real-world heat and stress on the whole system ... Next is your case, even being an oldie but goody and you've adressed cables (nice job) and added aux fans, try the whole process with your side cover removed and a box fan blowing inside and see if there isn't 4-5c improvement just there alone?

Your temps do seem High and while I'm on Z68 and have an H100 I pulled these old stats from my initial shakedown/OC session trying to match your situation with ambients/ cpu volts and putting the H100 on "Low" setting which pretty much equals an H80 on "High" ... and Last but not least what monitoring programs are you using?
I like Real Temp [HERE] and HDMonitor [HERE]

[email protected] - CPU-Z (volts) i1.032v / L1.384v / Real Temp (watts) 78w
Hyper PI 0.99b - 32M - 8m 19.231s A70F/21c / i31-26-28-29c / L57-58-56-56c
and here's a P95 run at 4.2GHz but 80F/26.5c ambient
Prime 95 (Blend) - 20min A80F / i34-31-30-31c / L53-56-55-54c

Hope some of that helps








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opforwarrior*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Running Prime95 and Memtest89 v4,2 on my 1st build (also my 1st NEW computer since a 1994 starmax apple clone... i'm always running two gen behind... still waiting to play Crysis for 1st time)
> Purchased a h50 and Antec 902 case 3 years ago, then put off the build because of reported heat issues on core i-7 and gtx 400-500 series cards.
> I have continued to limp alng with a used c2d e6600 on an intel mobo in a generic box, that I got from CompUSA's training room, when they went under (2007?). I download usenet vids and game (steam) on it. (+GTX 260 SP 216)
> 
> Current Build
> Core i-5 3570K CPU
> Intel Z77GA-70K Extreme mobo
> Corsair VengenceLP DDR3 1600 16GB kit (4x4GB) (CML16GX3M4A1600C9b) *certified w/mobo
> H50 Cooler w/ x2 Couger Vortex HDB Fans (1200RPM , 60cfm, 1.73mmH2O, 17.7db)
> EVGA FTW GTX 660 ti Superclock 3GB w/ Backplate
> Seagate 1TB sata II + Intel 520 120GB (RST & READYBOOST Partitions)
> Corsair TX850 PSU
> Antec 902 Case
> H50 is mounted push/pull intake from the rear fan mount. Rad is oriented tubes down (I'm a hydraulics specialist in the real world).
> Room is 23c ambient. TIM is stock. It runs cold. I have an infrared thermometer to verify reported temps.
> Prime95 CPU temp (multiple tests 10min -3 hrs)
> idletemp: 22c +/-
> torture @ stock 3.4ghz: 52c +/- (stable -no fail)
> torture @ oc 4.5ghz: 62c +/- (stable -no fail)
> The air exhausting from the H50 radiator is 3 degrees celcius warmer than intake air. The rad itself does not get hotter than ambient. The case is not warmed by the exhaust, in fact with the side door off, the fans blow cold air directly onto my face, it cools the mainboard components aswell. The Couger fans are silent, when i put my head into the case i can only hear the antec branded 120mm front fans and the BigBoy 200mm above. My GTX 660 ti, at idle runs +10 degrees above ambient, much cooler than my GTX 260. The TX 850 PSU is amazing compared to the TX 750's I have. Under full Prime95, the fan doesn't even spin up (85 F-101 F). The hottest spots on the mobo are the bridgechip, RAm and capacitors (30-35c)
> I'm a noob at this oc'ing and tuning. Intel visual bios was simple but i read, underwhelming and conservative in oc'ing compared to other mobo's. As a noob, I'm ok with that. I was very impressed with the quality of my old DQ965GF board. It's been running 24/7/365 and constantly downloading/gaming/surfing/dataserving for 5 years with only a few reboots/year. I'm passing the old rig onto my daughter, who's six and gaming on my wifes casual steam games already.
> 
> 
> _________ One Question ?___________
> The ram is reporting as 0.74-0.75 volts in Intel Desktop Utilities. Bios specs are asking for 1.5v. I troubleshot the RAM in pairs both syncronous and asyncronous modes and swapped , looking for a bad one. I changed oc speed from 1333 to 1600 and back again, used automatic and XMP profiles... no change in voltage. I did update the bios when i installed the OS, which required a CMOS purge by removing the battery to get it to reboot after the bios update. Can anyone give me more insight into this ram voltage issue. Google is of no help, searching for undervoltage and underclocking only gives advice on intentional downclocking... not unintentional. Searching for an arbitrary voltage like 0.75v doenst find searchstrings for alternate undervoltages like 0.76v. I have a support ticket in with Corsair RAMguy. Maybe you guys can save me days on the phone talking to intel. Has passed Memtest86 v4.2 . [ Doing more research I realised the "LP" designator on the RAM is "low power".. but it should be 1.35v ... or is 0.75 v normal? Is the intel software giving me a bad reading? ... why does the bios report 1.5v instead of 1.35v LP?]


Welcome - Nice build and another well presented question








Not being to familiar with Intel boards/bios' ... but I can safely say your ram would not even boot @0.76v so that is either a software reading glitch or it's a confusing/mis-labled sensor ... I'd only trust your in bios voltage readings for ram ... AND to take advantage of the extra low voltage ram modules you will have to "manually" set 1.35v in the bios as even with a bios update even Asus/ASRock/Gigabyte (what I use) don't always get the XMP settings right with every manufacturers IC's ... in reality I'd leave the modules @ 1.5v especially for overclocking stability!

EDIT: I missed your "Last thoughts" the 1st go around







... Well said! and I agree with most of your observations ... your quite an opinionated guy, We like that, you'll fit in "Nicely" around here if you choose to do so ...
Sorry if I offeneded you with the straightedge/lapping comment but it works quite well for those that pursue that avenue because they don't want to hassle an RMA process or just want that "mirrored finish", and most I know don't use regular sandpaper/ what gave you that idea? Additionally most aren't as technically skilled and equiped as you [You have ABLAP diamond lapps (1 lightband flatness), monochromatic light sources and optical flats for checking flatness.] Nice! ... But I'm sure your well aware not all components are released to market with original specs, too many get by QA these days, and yes some are so bad that they will show up with a simple inexpensive machinists/jewelers straightedge







...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellywolf996*
> 
> Which is better the h80i or h100. Its for a i7 950. I would like to overclock but not sure how much yet. Nothing to high. ...
> I cant push pull with a h100.


Definately the H100 ... it will slightly outperform an H80 even without a Push/Pull setup and depending on your OC and tolerable temps will run Quieter! ...
See [HERE]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mlibby1980*
> 
> I have the h60 which will be rma for a return tomorrow am when ups picks it up. I had the original h100 with ultra scythe fans on a 8130 that was stock of 3100 mhz over clocked to 4.6mhz and vcore of 1.38
> my temps never peaked 45c with push pull. I had swapped out the h60 for the NZXT Kraken X60 which is a 280mm all in one cooler. i wont have that till wednesday but going to run some test on it. The h60 h80 and h100 honestly have a hard time cooling the new intel cpu. i have the 3770k oc to 4.6 at 1.25vcore and my room temp is probably 15c (from Minnesota and its freezing here) and mine temps out at 68c to 80c. currently at 38 to 40 on all cores.
> Not a fan of corsair Coolers after this last one
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mlibby1980*
> 
> 45 is at idle and umm my room is probably 65 to 70 Fahrenheit . during prime its at 80c and thats after 2 minutes
Click to expand...

I'll agree your temps seem high even if you have one of the "Hotter" running 3770's [@4.6 at 1.25vcore] especially with pretty ideal ambients of 15c. For many it depends if they got a 3770 with a good mounted IHS or a sloppy one? When OC'ing Ivy Bridge I see temps/volts all over the place ...
BUT if you don't mind doing a semi-modded mount of the Kraken X60 (280mm rad) then this may be just what the doctor ordered for you, especially if you don't want to give in to a full "Custom-Loop" because the X60 will cost almost as much! It's hard to find any reliable head to head comparisons of the Krakens but this looked promising [HERE] ... looks like 1c-6c improvement (depending on setup?) over the H100 on "High" with a 3570K 4.6GHz @ full load and the *Kraken probably will run quieter*







with the naturally engineered quieter 140mm fans







... but again, may depend on the setup and type of fans?

It would be very interesting to see your H100 vs Kraken X60 head-to-head results with all the details if possible!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> So because this thread is so great I'm going to be giving away my H60
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone who has been in this thread helping will be put on the draw list. Once I get my WC setup of course. Couple weeks xD


Wow ... that is very generous of you








This thread has been a lot of fun! ... I hope it goes to someone that will use it on their GPU ... my 10 cents


----------



## svtfmook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I'm using CorsairLINK 2.2, Corsair Hydro USB is showing version 2.0.0 and the H80i firmware is 1.0.4.
> 
> Sorry you're having problems but it works fine for me.


finally got it working, apparently, it's all in which usb header you use, lol


----------



## svtfmook

and since i got the h100i working, i'm liking it again, lol


----------



## mlibby1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> i believe people are looking for excuses to RMA in order to get the new X60, X40 or Swiftech; from my point of view all i did was install the H100i using the instructions and 4.6ghz overclock with idle around 22C-30c and full load between 38C - 47c with 1.34v


This is why im getting rid of my h60 this is the grid or whatever you want to call it that was originally on corsairs website and now i cant find it but its still on the boxes

I have the 3770k and my temps at full load are no where near 60c



90c on 2 cores after 5minutes on a cooler i paid almost 90.00 for,

so i will give the x60 a try and if that doesnt drop my temps below 60c at full load i will be returning that also and building a custom loop


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mlibby1980*
> 
> This is why im getting rid of my h60 this is the grid or whatever you want to call it that was originally on corsairs website and now i cant find it but its still on the boxes
> I have the 3770k and my temps at full load are no where near 60c
> 
> 90c on 2 cores after 5minutes on a cooler i paid almost 90.00 for,
> so i will give the x60 a try and if that doesnt drop my temps below 60c at full load i will be returning that also and building a custom loop


That's because you're at 1.392v. Every processor will require a different voltage to get to 4.6


----------



## mlibby1980

even dropping it to 1.25 im still at 82c after 2 minutes :-D


----------



## kiwiasian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mlibby1980*
> 
> even dropping it to 1.25 im still at 82c after 2 minutes :-D


You're sure you installed it correctly? What TIM are you using? How did you apply/spread it?


----------



## ez12a

could be just a bad tim application under the CPU heat spreader.

my 2700k with an H50 at ~1.35 would be around high 80s C with a prologned prime95 run. This is with dual GT AP-15s.


----------



## opforwarrior

"Sorry if I offeneded you with the straightedge/lapping comment... and yes some are so bad that they will show up with a simple inexpensive machinists/jewelers straightedge"

LOL no offense taken! I hadn't read your comment yet and was commenting on some other post in the 2100 pages in this thread.

If you can see error comparing witha straightedge, you don't need a better unit of measure. I discourage doing any machine work with a tool of measurement lacking 0.001" of accuracy (digital calipers), let alone 3 millionths of an inch (true flat).

I have read that coldplate and cpu mfg use convex surfaces... two reasons, it assures direct contact at the center of the interface and you can lapp faster if you can accept unsquare edges of the finished product (copper is a soft metal with particular characteristics, heat/plating, making machining more difficult than steel) .

It could be argued that an optically flat Lid & coldplate would have reduced surface area, compared to the rougher RMS provided by the mfg. Reducing surface area reduces total heat transfer even while maintaining a tight surface. The best interface would be two lapped faces "wrung" together with a light oil... Except in two weeks the oil will evaporate, air infiltrates and insulates the interface. The purpose of the TIM is not to coat the interface, but provide a non-drying exclusion of air molecules. This is the real cause of your poor temps. Excessive worship of some "magic goop" you don't understand.

Additionally, highly paid engineers with a collective million years in chip design, have determined the exact thickness of the "lid" of your chip. Like a frying pan, reducing the thickness will cause scorching and uneven heating... the opposite of the intended purpose of the heat spreader. It's hard to argue with poor results from your experiments.

RE: Noise in pump: Cavitation.

A pump must be supplied with fluid at all times, running in a flooded condition (exceptions; self-priming pumps and jet pumps). The flow must be pressurized (usually gravity). As the flow enters the impeller area it moves from med pressure to low pressure to high pressure. If the drop in pressure is sufficient, it can pull entrained air from the fluid (This air is what fish breathe). The sound of the air bubbles collapsing sounds like rocks tumbling (growling). These are actually implosions, causing massive pitting and destruction to metals found in commercial pumps. Solution? Maintain a flooded condition by keeping the bulk of the fluid above the pump unit. Additionally, the pump must push the heated fluid back up against gravity. Every inch of head it must overcome reduces the pressure and flow, ultimately reducing the life of the pump. Inverting the cooler (tubes on top) allows for excessive pressure drop (vacuum) in the tube filling the pump, at the same time reducing the pressure needed to pump the fluid back to the rad, increasing the flow into the radiator, increasing the difference in pressure. Don't feel bad, visualing pressurized fluids confounds the professionals too.

RE: Radiators vs. Aircool

They are not the same... they have different performance curves. Every heating/cooling solution has a specific set of parameters. Water and Air have different performance ranges, suitable for a wide range of applications. Superchillers like Liquid gasses. Phase state changers like water, freon and liquid sodium out perform Air within certain temp ranges. Air can be used from -300f to +5,000f+ (at a certain point it will self combust). Water is 0f-212f under normal atmospheric conditions... 213-600f+ under pressure, but at over 1,000c it can degrade into it's component gases with ease. A radiator has a natural running temp determined by the water's qualities as a heatsink , the ambient airtemp and airflow. A watercool solution will have a lower MAX temp compared to an aircooled unit, until boiling pressue ruptures the radiator (unlikely with a 77watt chip).You can cool a nuculear reactor with air, water or liquid metal. If you have to shut down the reactor. the liquid metal will turn solid in the pipes... requiring a teardown. The air cool plant has little heatsink reserve to prevent a melt-down... Water is the safest. Water is unique in so many ways. It exists in all three phases at ambient temps. It expands when BOTH heated AND frozen. It's nonpoisonous(without anti-freeze). It is because of these unique properties it is used in almost all energy production. It is the universal solvent... and the basis for life.

You can eat an apple, you can eat an orange... they are both fruit, having seeds, filled with sugar... but they are not the same thing.


----------



## mlibby1980

I have replaced the tim 3 times but to find out 2 of the mounting bolts to the cpu are bending outwards could this be causing heat displacement?,


----------



## jktmas

so im at 58c at 30% load on a 3570k @3.6GHZ ... sound wrong.

thats because im still waiting for corsair to send back my H80 so im using the intel cooler.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mlibby1980*
> 
> I have replaced the tim 3 times but to find out 2 of the mounting bolts to the cpu are bending outwards could this be causing heat displacement?,


My H100 does this too ...


----------



## opforwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> so im at 58c at 30% load on a 3570k @3.6GHZ ... sound wrong.
> thats because im still waiting for corsair to send back my H80 so im using the intel cooler.


That oem TIM is applied in three linear patches... 50% of the contact surface has zero TIM.

That intel cooler is 30% smaller than my intel LGA755 stock cooler (c2d e6600). Intel stock coolers run hot, it is the minimum cooling and the fan will run @ 100% on a hot day during idle.

I bumped my cooler last week while vacuuming the mat of dust off of it. I didn't notice at the time, but, I knocked it loose. It had 1 broken tiedown, that i knew. What i found out after BSOD errors later, was, I had appled TIM too generously years ago. The TIM had formed a wedge under the coldplate where the pressure had been misapplied(broken tiedown).

When I bumped the cooler with the vacuum attachment, it freed the ajoining tiedown , resulting in my cooler flapping like a barn door on a hinge. It would boot and idle , but thermal fail under load. I reapplied TIM, then lightly dragged (floated) a razor blade across, until a thin uniform , almost see-through layer developed (like elmers glue). Then I torqued down my three good bolts.

I feel silly to report, my Intel stock cooler no longer runns @ 100% fan, case temps dropped, as well as the vidcard & PSU exhaust temps. Historicly, I gained 7-10 FPS my source games (35-55 avg up to a 45-75 avg), and no BSOD's. ( I have never OC'd or modifed the bios on this machine)

That experience helped in my latest i5-3570k build decisions.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellywolf996*
> 
> Which is better the h80i or h100. Its for a i7 950. I would like to overclock but not sure how much yet. Nothing to high.


Normally you would see about a 3c improvement over the H80 with the H100. However, since you're talking about the H80i, which supposedly has improved by a couple of c over the H80, I would expect it to cool about the same as an H100 myself.


----------



## rexbinary

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Canned air is not a waste of money. We have compressors, vacuums as well as canned air where I work, and each has its uses. There are lots of nooks and crannies a vacuum cleaner can't get to.


You didn't read. I didn't post a vacuum, but suit yourself. Canned air is always a waste and bad on the environment.


----------



## Deceit

Hi! Got a perfectly functioning H100i recently (flatmate did as well).

i7 3770k is overclocked to 4.6ghz. Cores 0, 2, and 3 all stay under 70c under normal operating conditions, and hovers around 70c (sometimes reaching 71-72c during Intel Burn Test). Core 1 likes to heat up more than normal, not sure what is causing this, or just a weird temperature reading. Core 1 likes to jump to about 7-8c higher than the other cores (maximum temperature seen during 15 runs of IBT was 77c).

CPU is so far stable at 1.232 - 1.238vcore @ 4.6ghz.

All temperatures in the low to mid 60s when using the computer for everyday tasks.

Want to de-lid, but scared to damage the CPU. Don't have deep pockets for a replacement.

Might try either the Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra, or Indigo Xtreme TIMs.


----------



## GreenNeon

Going to get my pics up for the club. Before I do so however, I have a question. I have an H55 running in my system with a 3770k @ 4.2Ghz, should I put two fans on the radiator? One I front and one behind attached to the fan mount? At the moment I only have the one stock fan pushing through the radiator.


----------



## jellywolf996

it is a thin radiator so one fan will be ok but if you want, add another fan and test your temps.


----------



## opforwarrior

My 1st realtemp run ... max torture Prime95 (stock settings)



Ran CPU Load at same time ... It correctly shows my Memory voltage (you were right!)



Compared to Intel's Desktop utility ...



I have reached the end of my competence. Looking at my results... where should i go next?
The H50 is providing good cooling... Auto-overclock using intel visual bios... does not push the temp envelope.

-OPFORWARRIOR


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deceit*
> 
> Hi! Got a perfectly functioning H100i recently (flatmate did as well).
> i7 3770k is overclocked to 4.6ghz. Cores 0, 2, and 3 all stay under 70c under normal operating conditions, and hovers around 70c (sometimes reaching 71-72c during Intel Burn Test). Core 1 likes to heat up more than normal, not sure what is causing this, or just a weird temperature reading. Core 1 likes to jump to about 7-8c higher than the other cores (maximum temperature seen during 15 runs of IBT was 77c).
> CPU is so far stable at 1.232 - 1.238vcore @ 4.6ghz.
> All temperatures in the low to mid 60s when using the computer for everyday tasks.
> Want to de-lid, but scared to damage the CPU. Don't have deep pockets for a replacement.
> Might try either the Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra, or Indigo Xtreme TIMs.


Those temps look very good and quite normal with some assuptions on your ambients (22c?) and setup ( Push/Top intake?) ... I'm feeling your urge to de-lid the Ivy Bridge with it's poor cost-cutting lack of fluxless solder attachment ... back in the day several of us delided our Opty's ((Opteron 165 for me) to reach the coveted 3.0GHz stable Overclock (LoL







), mine hit a wall @2.85 before IHS removal. Was it worth it? For me at the time YES ... and it is not nearly as hard as some make it out to be.
If I had your 3770K and 4.6 stability today ... I wouldn't bother, you have a nice stable OC'd setup! BUT if your into Mad Max clocks ... well you know the answer







see [HERE]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opforwarrior*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My 1st realtemp run ... max torture Prime95 (stock settings)
> 
> Ran CPU Load at same time ... It correctly shows my Memory voltage (you were right!)
> 
> Compared to Intel's Desktop utility ...
> 
> 
> 
> I have reached the end of my competence. Looking at my results... where should i go next?
> The H50 is providing good cooling... Auto-overclock using intel visual bios... does not push the temp envelope.
> -OPFORWARRIOR


Well your ready to ditch software clocking and get into the real deal --> direct Bios overclocking ... Start [HERE] ... While I couldn't find any specific threads on your Intel Z77GA-70K Extreme mobo, Munaim1 writes one of the best, most comprehensive OC guides out there, with your level of knowledge and attention to detail, I think you'll really appreciate it!
Additionally, while your load temps are quite low, it may be because your not fully loading the CPU, see the line in CPUID Hardware Monitor -->
Intel Core i5 3570K --> Powers --> Package --> 40.58w
That should be reading 80-85w for P95 and possibly as high as 110+w for a properly installed IBT stress program ... with an H50/3570K stock / 22c ambients / proper setup blah blah you should be seeing load temps more in the 60c? range ... maybe other H50 guys could confirm that ...
*"YMMV"* ... your mileage may very









Edit: in the top right corner of Real Temp you can change the Time 00:13:29 reading to Watts by just clicking on it .... see what that reads ... I think there may be some conflicts with that Intel mobo/software/sensor points with HWMonitor???


----------



## opforwarrior

"Additionally, while your load temps are quite low, it may be because your not fully loading the CPU, see the line in CPUID Hardware Monitor -->
Intel Core i5 3570K --> Powers --> Package --> 40.58w"

Ok I see that .. I think i read the chip had a 77watt max ... is this the same as what you were talking about?

Software overclock has no apparent effect ...

When you say "properly installed" are you refering to setting up a gimps account and letting the server run primes... or something else? I'm just running the prime95 app from my desktop.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opforwarrior*
> 
> "Additionally, while your load temps are quite low, it may be because your not fully loading the CPU, see the line in CPUID Hardware Monitor -->
> Intel Core i5 3570K --> Powers --> Package --> 40.58w"
> Ok I see that .. I think i read the chip had a 77watt max ... is this the same as what you were talking about?
> Software overclock has no apparent effect ...
> When you say "properly installed" are you refering to setting up a gimps account and letting the server run primes... or something else? I'm just running the prime95 app from my desktop.


Nah that's the 3570K's TDP (more info [HERE] do not be alarmed running 80-85w even 24/7 IMHO but I dont like to run IBT/LinX for more than a 20-30 minutes as an ultimate stressor ...

Runnning Prime 95 from the desktop is how most of us do it ... no reason to sign up, but you may want to look into [THIS] LinX and IBT are very similar and can really stress the system beyound what you'll find in "Real World" apps (even BF3 LoL







) BUT it's a great way to fully test a cooling system for shorter runs ... check out Munaim1 link above









EDIT: PS Your knowledge and insights above are appreciated!







+R for you


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rexbinary*
> 
> You didn't read. I didn't post a vacuum, but suit yourself. Canned air is always a waste and bad on the environment.


I never said you posted a vacuum. I only said there are lots of places a vacuum can't get to. You have your opinion on canned air, however obviously considering how much is sold and used a lot of people disagree with you. We even use it at work for quick bursts of air to quickly clean something out when it's not worth the time to take it in the back and use the compressor, or to pull out a vacuum. We also take it on service calls since it's so handy.

The electric duster you showed is a decent alternative to a compressor, even though it costs about the same and can't be used for as many things. However, it may be quieter than a compressor, and handier for single jobs. Unfortunately, you're still tied to 120V and it won't fit in as small a space in my tool box for service calls as will a can of compressed air. You can even get the half-size version, taking up even less space.

Apartment dwellers may also not want to, or have room for building a tool collection as home owners will, and for them a can of compressed air could come in handy once in a while. Consider, you will use up an entire can about every fourth or fifth time you use it to clean the few spots you need it for (that you can't get at with a vacuum) in a pc, maybe more. If a person cleans his home PC every three months, you're talking over a year for a can.

Many people also don't realize that a lot of home vacuum cleaners (like some models of shop-vacs) will allow you to plug the hose into the exhaust, turning the unit into a blower. I used to do this at home before I picked up a nice little air compressor on sale for $60. Just make sure you aim the hose outside when you first turn it on.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opforwarrior*
> 
> "Additionally, while your load temps are quite low, it may be because your not fully loading the CPU, see the line in CPUID Hardware Monitor -->
> Intel Core i5 3570K --> Powers --> Package --> 40.58w"


This is CPU package power consumption.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opforwarrior*
> 
> Ok I see that .. I think i read the chip had a 77watt max ... is this the same as what you were talking about?


This is not max CPU power consumption but the amount of power (heat) the cooling system need to dissipate. (i5-3570K max TDP = 77W)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Many people also don't realize that a lot of home vacuum cleaners (like some models of shop-vacs) will allow you to plug the hose into the exhaust, turning the unit into a blower. I used to do this at home before I picked up a nice little air compressor on sale for $60. Just make sure you aim the hose outside when you first turn it on.


My vacuum cleaner can't do this. Compressed air can will be good tool for cleaning rads because I don't have to removed the rads & the fans to clean the dusts between them.


----------



## opforwarrior

I've been reading more...
1) Overclocking raises temps
2) Higher temps require more voltage
3) Higher voltage raises wattage consumed and heat
4) Aggressive cooling reduces voltage needs and total wattage resulting in lower temps... which are easier to cool.

Can someone explain more , the power needs of the i5-3570K ? Has my Intel visiual bios , nerf'd my system in favor of high oc numbers, or am I just too cool ? (pun , lol)

Perhaps using an absolute reference, like a timed work project, so I can compare my stock & oc vs. your system? My win7 score was 7.5-7.6 on the cpu. (7.9 on the others , 5.9 on disk - 1 GB sataII)

Thanks again!


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opforwarrior*
> 
> I've been reading more...
> 2) Higher temps require more voltage
> 3) Higher voltage raises wattage consumed and heat
> 4) Aggressive cooling reduces voltage needs and total wattage resulting in lower temps... which are easier to cool.
> Can someone explain more , the power needs of the i5-3570K ? Has my Intel visiual bios , nerf'd my system in favor of high oc numbers, or am I just too cool ? (pun , lol)
> Perhaps using an absolute reference, like a timed work project, so I can compare my stock & oc vs. your system? My win7 score was 7.5-7.6 on the cpu. (7.9 on the others , 5.9 on disk - 1 GB sataII)
> Thanks again!


2) No, more voltage *causes* higher temps.
3) Yes.
4) Yes. But not significantly.

Ignore the windows score, it means nothing

Shoot for 4.6GHz. Be happy with anything over that. I'll link a guide in a second

http://www.overclock.net/t/1198504/complete-overclocking-guide-sandy-bridge-ivy-bridge-asrock-edition/0_100


----------



## opforwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> 2) No, more voltage *causes* higher temps.


"Blobman001
Should I increase my Voltage to 1.200? If so. Will I be able to clock my card higher?

EpicDan03-05-2011, 12:21 PM
Yes, it will allow you to overclock your card higher whilst keeping it stable. The thing you will need to do though is set up a custom fan profile as increasing the voltage of a card also increases the heat it generates."
http://forums.steampowered.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-1781033.html

"• Vcore - This is the voltage feed to the cpu, increasing this will allow stability however the lower the voltage required to maintain stablility the better. "
http://whirlpool.net.au/wiki/rmp_i7_920_overclocking

"As we increase the processor's operating frequency, we're going to need to increase VCore in order to facilitate higher switching frequencies of the processor core. The conventional method of doing this is simply to set voltage control to manual mode and type in the required voltage for stability at the selected operating frequency. However, the side effect of using this method is that the applied voltage code (VID) remains static under all loading conditions so we end up increasing power consumption and heat production under light loading conditions unnecessarily."
http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?2162-Overclocking-Using-Offset-Mode-for-CPU-Core-Voltage

"When a processor is overclocked the processor increases the core voltage at the cost of system stability, power consumption and heat dissipation. This is known as overvolting."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CPU_core_voltage

Some conflicting or misinterpreted info out there....


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opforwarrior*
> 
> "Blobman001
> Should I increase my Voltage to 1.200? If so. Will I be able to clock my card higher?
> 
> EpicDan03-05-2011, 12:21 PM
> Yes, it will allow you to overclock your card higher whilst keeping it stable. The thing you will need to do though is set up a custom fan profile as increasing the voltage of a card also increases the heat it generates."
> http://forums.steampowered.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-1781033.html
> 
> "• Vcore - This is the voltage feed to the cpu, increasing this will allow stability however the lower the voltage required to maintain stablility the better. "
> http://whirlpool.net.au/wiki/rmp_i7_920_overclocking
> 
> "As we increase the processor's operating frequency, we're going to need to increase VCore in order to facilitate higher switching frequencies of the processor core. The conventional method of doing this is simply to set voltage control to manual mode and type in the required voltage for stability at the selected operating frequency. However, the side effect of using this method is that the applied voltage code (VID) remains static under all loading conditions so we end up increasing power consumption and heat production under light loading conditions unnecessarily."
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?2162-Overclocking-Using-Offset-Mode-for-CPU-Core-Voltage
> 
> "When a processor is overclocked the processor increases the core voltage at the cost of system stability, power consumption and heat dissipation. This is known as overvolting."
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CPU_core_voltage
> 
> Some conflicting or misinterpreted info out there....


Everything you just quoted dman, who is correct, supports him..and please dont try to argue this. How could heat possibly cause more voltage....? That makes no sense at all.


----------



## opforwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Everything you just quoted dman, who is correct, supports him..and please dont try to argue this. How could heat possibly cause more voltage....? That makes no sense at all.


I must have been misunderstood. Part of my confusion is in NOT being able to crash my system... no failure at max settings, so I'm just lost in the woods without "true north".

I meant to repeat other's advice to the effect :
An increase in cpu clocking, has a corresponding increase in heat.
Additionally, voltage (which increases heat) must be increased [to match the increase in clock].
As heat increases stability decreases.
As voltage is raised [ and here's where i'm having problems with some advice I have read , but can't find a link now] some "guru's" have advised raising the voltage to increase "stability", in the assumption that its the heat CAUSING the instability.
As heat increases stability decreases.

Obviously this is a paradox (catch.22)... and like most mysteries, is based upon misinformed expert opinion. I'm not arguing, I'm looking for a community consensus as to the rightness/wrongness of this guys thinking, becasue i'm having some problems with his logic, not defending it.

With the little i've uncovered, I was suprised to learn the low voltage on my CPU was not a bad thing ... it IS stable (i5-3570k oc 4.5ghz @ 1.08v running prime95 in the low 50's c). But my wattage is low also (45w) ... (becasue my voltage is low?... which is low,because my temps are low?)

I'm just trying to wrap my head around these variables. I've looked at the "guides" ... mostly ongoing conversations, back-slapping and a stream of acronyms I have to google... and nothing for my setup hardware/bios. I've looked at utube ... mostly shallow reviews or Intel marketing fluff **. Went to Intel... all waving hands, smoke & mirrors ... ( ***!! did a rabbit just pop out of his hat?***)

Below is a link to a review of *Intel Visual Bios ... it has screenshots of every options page, maybe you can suggest some particular settings for boosting performance?
http://techgage.com/article/intel_dz77ga-70k_motherboard_review/2/

Below is a link to a utube video review of same.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dpZr2khbPWQ

Below are "Intel Engineer's Dave & Greg"... whom I'd like to punch in the head.
** http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJ9jmSari4g
*** http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/desktops/desktop-boards-cooling-overview-video.html

Intel Z77GA-70K (Intel Visual Bios*)
Intel i5-3570K
Corsair H50 Cooler (rated for 130+ tdp CPU's ... i'm pushing just a fraction ... pump speed was single biggest cooling factor in my tests, fans second, case flow 3rd)
Corsair TX 850 (kicks in the teeth of the TX 750 ... much heavier, lower % system load means less heat/fan/noise)
Corsair Vengence LP 1600 (4x4GB)
EVGA GTX 660 TI 3GB OC ( my gtx 260 was ok... now i'll see what i was missing)
Seagate 1TB sata II (the weaklink ... have 4- 2tb sataIII but they are full & I blew my load on the build.. had this new in box)
Intel 520 120GB [Smart Response & Readyboost Caches] ( 5 sec boots... after post... 3 sec shutdown... responsive,feels like some windows open before i even clicked)
Antec 902 Mid-tower
Plantronics Gamecon780 Headset (nice 7.1surround, cheap online @ $47... valve has custom logo'd [email protected] $78)
Thermaltake BlacX dual esata (works well , but machine won't boot when it's turned on... maybe a bios boot setting pointing at the esata, haven't looked into it, or, whether the mobo has port doubling)

___
Once upon a time I worked for the Apple reseller in Portland, Oregon. Also, Egghead.com (Vancouver,WA), phonesales, when they went under in 2001.

I love my toys.... I've got some old dells (Optiplex GX250-P4, Optiplex 745's-755's - c2d's), systemax c2d, (2) hp xw4400's ( I'd like to upgrades the 1.8ghz c2d's to quadcores), newer amd laptop, Apple G3,G4, (8) G5 Xserves & a tower full of network gear ... (5) 23" 'project' monitors that need new caps....

All of my Intel based machines (exept the P4 .. mx440?) run Nvida GTX 260's, 250 or 240's. After 20 years of ATI's inferior Apple vga's and worthless drivers... they lost me FOR-EVA! Don't belive? I have a dozen of them... fricken 8mb vram in 2000!!??!!. They were the reason you couln't game on the mac. Shiiii... I have equipment older than many of you







( I threw out my lcIII, finally)

chat on steam?
=(eG)= OPFORWARRIOR


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opforwarrior*
> 
> I must have been misunderstood. Part of my confusion is in NOT being able to crash my system... no failure at max settings, so I'm just lost in the woods without "true north".
> 
> I meant to repeat other's advice to the effect :
> An increase in cpu clocking, has a corresponding increase in heat.
> Additionally, voltage (which increases heat) must be increased [to match the increase in clock].
> As heat increases stability decreases.
> As voltage is raised [ and here's where i'm having problems with some advice I have read , but can't find a link now] some "guru's" have advised raising the voltage to increase "stability", in the assumption that its the heat CAUSING the instability.
> As heat increases stability decreases.
> 
> Obviously this is a paradox (catch.22)... and like most mysteries, is based upon misinformed expert opinion. I'm not arguing, I'm looking for a community consensus as to the rightness/wrongness of this guys thinking, becasue i'm having some problems with his logic, not defending it.
> 
> With the little i've uncovered, I was suprised to learn the low voltage on my CPU was not a bad thing ... it IS stable (i5-3570k oc 4.5ghz @ 1.08v running prime95 in the low 50's c). But my wattage is low also (45w) ... (becasue my voltage is low?... which is low,because my temps are low?)
> 
> I'm just trying to wrap my head around these variables. I've looked at the "guides" ... mostly ongoing conversations, back-slapping and a stream of acronyms I have to google... and nothing for my setup hardware/bios. I've looked at utube ... mostly shallow reviews or Intel marketing fluff **. Went to Intel... all waving hands, smoke & mirrors ... ( ***!! did a rabbit just pop out of his hat?***)
> 
> Below is a link to a review of *Intel Visual Bios ... it has screenshots of every options page, maybe you can suggest some particular settings for boosting performance?
> http://techgage.com/article/intel_dz77ga-70k_motherboard_review/2/
> 
> Below is a link to a utube video review of same.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dpZr2khbPWQ
> 
> Below are "Intel Engineer's Dave & Greg"... whom I'd like to punch in the head.
> ** http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJ9jmSari4g
> *** http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/desktops/desktop-boards-cooling-overview-video.html
> 
> Intel Z77GA-70K (Intel Visual Bios*)
> Intel i5-3570K
> Corsair H50 Cooler (rated for 130+ tdp CPU's ... i'm pushing just a fraction ... pump speed was single biggest cooling factor in my tests, fans second, case flow 3rd)
> Corsair TX 850 (kicks in the teeth of the TX 750 ... much heavier, lower % system load means less heat/fan/noise)
> Corsair Vengence LP 1600 (4x4GB)
> EVGA GTX 660 TI 3GB OC ( my gtx 260 was ok... now i'll see what i was missing)
> Seagate 1TB sata II (the weaklink ... have 4- 2tb sataIII but they are full & I blew my load on the build.. had this new in box)
> Intel 520 120GB [Smart Response & Readyboost Caches] ( 5 sec boots... after post... 3 sec shutdown... responsive,feels like some windows open before i even clicked)
> Antec 902 Mid-tower
> Plantronics Gamecon780 Headset (nice 7.1surround, cheap online @ $47... valve has custom logo'd [email protected] $78)
> Thermaltake BlacX dual esata (works well , but machine won't boot when it's turned on... maybe a bios boot setting pointing at the esata, haven't looked into it or whether the mobo has port doubling)
> 
> ___
> Once upon a time I worked for the Apple reseller in Portland, Oregon. Also, Egghead.com (Vancouver,WA), phonesales, when they went under in 2000.


You need to calm down and organize your posts.

if it's stable at 1.08v and 4.5GHz, awesome. If you want to push it further, we can help you.

When you increase voltage, the CPU can be more powerful, but also produces more heat. Yes. Heat is ONLY consequence, and nothing else.

The basics of overclocking is you push your chip until it's either unstable, and you cannot give it more voltage because it produces too much heat.

Two overclocking limiting factors:
1) voltage. You can either feed it more voltage, or lower the multiplier.
2) Heat. You either lower the voltage to make the heat tolerable (Ideally under 70C in Prime95, but you can run it hotter if you like. Intel's safe temps are 105 on Sandybridge, and 98C on your chip I believe. But generally, you want to stay under or around 70C in prime95 since gaming will never push it as hard. Your other option, is to upgrade cooling. In terms of enthusiast cooling, the H50 is mediocre at best.

If you have any other questions about acronyms or procedures or anything, make a clear and organized post


----------



## Zackotsu

a bit disappointed with H100i..it's only been 2 weeks since i've put this thing on my rig and now out of the RGB leds, only the R and G is functioning and my B is practically dead..as in DEAD..dafuq..the performance is still ok though but common..what's the purpose of having a RGB led indicator if one of those just died like 2 weeks after installation..now i have to practically remove the bloody thing to get it RMA..i'm a bit of dismay cause i just sold my D14..wew..as of now the R and G are still working though..this just sucks..


----------



## Tman5293

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zackotsu*
> 
> a bit disappointed with H100i..it's only been 2 weeks since i've put this thing on my rig and now out of the RGB leds, only the R and G is functioning and my B is practically dead..as in DEAD..dafuq..the performance is still ok though but common..what's the purpose of having a RGB led indicator if one of those just died like 2 weeks after installation..now i have to practically remove the bloody thing to get it RMA..i'm a bit of dismay cause i just sold my D14..wew..as of now the R and G are still working though..this just sucks..


You're not alone. I've had my H100i for about three weeks. When I got it the LED was perfect and white. After about two weeks it started to change colors on its own. After about a week it had changed from white to hot pink. I had to change it to red. I have no idea what it's doing anymore.


----------



## opforwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> You need to calm down and organize your posts.
> 
> if it's stable at 1.08v and 4.5GHz, awesome. If you want to push it further, we can help you.
> 
> When you increase voltage, the CPU can be more powerful, but also produces more heat. Yes. Heat is ONLY consequence, and nothing else.
> 
> The basics of overclocking is you push your chip until it's either unstable, and you cannot give it more voltage because it produces too much heat.
> 
> Two overclocking limiting factors:
> 1) voltage. You can either feed it more voltage, or lower the multiplier.
> 2) Heat. You either lower the voltage to make the heat tolerable (Ideally under 70C in Prime95, but you can run it hotter if you like. Intel's safe temps are 105 on Sandybridge, and 98C on your chip I believe. But generally, you want to stay under or around 70C in prime95 since gaming will never push it as hard. Your other option, is to upgrade cooling. In terms of enthusiast cooling, the H50 is mediocre at best.
> 
> If you have any other questions about acronyms or procedures or anything, make a clear and organized post


lol ... I WAS very calm and spent two hours reviseing it... i think your expectections might be too high.







like mine in thinking i'm going to get any simple awnsers here









Ok its's stable and maybe i haven't been clear enough... i'm looking for a liitle help here.

Unmitigated heat isn't an isolated incident without consequence to the system... thermal shutdown lies at the end of that road, no? (ie, instability)

Maybe you can start be defining "stable" .. are all overclockers meaning the same thing?

Overclocking! OK... now were are getting somewhere... using what you know of overclocking... and using the information i provided, about my bios, in my rambling monolouge above... can you give me REAL practical numbers i can start plugging in? Am I bound by my bios limitations? What are they?

Your assertion that H50 is mediocre is not proven by my results. I'm reading about others running 3570k and unable to make it stable or crash free @ 4.3ghz @ 1.25 volts. I can't get it to crash or even warm up. Tuning my fans got me 7c... forcing the mobo to runs the pump at 1400 rpm instead of the 823 rpm , gave me 10c ... neg pressure in the case... another 3c. I was running , as you say in the 70's... now 50's when oc's and running prime95. YMMV

My guess is Intel is flipping a switch behind the curtain on my settings in the auto overclock... It says full load , but not registering any real overclock. As I don't know enough to ask inteligent questions, perhaps... you can just look over the bios and give me the settings, instead of giving me a hard time, k?

Note: I was just gaming in stock mode (a :source game) ... I left the game running and checked some stats .. 23c on the processors 41c max... 17% load ... 2200ghz .. Ok.. maybe it didn't need any more power to push out 125-250 fps .. but still , how can i kick this thing in the @ss? how much power saving does a high end gaming chip need?


----------



## blizzard232

Hi, will I fit H100i in 300r? I got :

|MB| MSI Z77A-G45
|CPU| Intel® Core™ i5-2400 3,1 GHz
|RAM| Corsair 8GB DDR3 1600MHz CL10 Vengeance
|VGA| MSI R5870 PM2D1G
|HDD| Seagate Barracuda 7200 500GB
|PSU| Corsair CX600 V2
|AUDIO| Logitech Z623
|KEYBOARD| Razer Blackwidow Battlefield 3™
|MOUSE| Razer Mamba
|MOUSEPAD| Razer Goliathus Extended Control Edition
|LCD| Acer S235HLbii

//doesn't fit with default fans, nevermind, I will change it for C70..


----------



## Deceit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Those temps look very good and quite normal with some assuptions on your ambients (22c?) and setup ( Push/Top intake?) ... I'm feeling your urge to de-lid the Ivy Bridge with it's poor cost-cutting lack of fluxless solder attachment ... back in the day several of us delided our Opty's ((Opteron 165 for me) to reach the coveted 3.0GHz stable Overclock (LoL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), mine hit a wall @2.85 before IHS removal. Was it worth it? For me at the time YES ... and it is not nearly as hard as some make it out to be.
> If I had your 3770K and 4.6 stability today ... I wouldn't bother, you have a nice stable OC'd setup! BUT if your into Mad Max clocks ... well you know the answer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> see [HERE]


Hi TomcatV, thanks for your reply.

I'm not after mad max clocks, so I think I'm very happy for now. There was a bit of instability when playing some games, but I'm running offset voltage +0.005, and I had all C states enabled. I left C1E enabled (as recommended by many ppl here and other tech forums it seems), and turned off C3, C6, and Package C. Haven't had any issues with crashes or random behavior since. I thought it may have been the CPU getting random drops in voltage, when checking CPU-Z the overclocked frequency fluctuates a lot, from max 4.6ghz to around 2.0ghz to 1.6ghz (minimum). Average voltage and maximum have remained unchanged, still not seeing anything higher than 1.238vcore. Once, I saw 1.24 which was kind of weird. Anyway now I turned off most C states I don't get weird fluctuations in my frequency when the CPU is actually under load (even for a lighweight program or game).









As for my ambients they are usually around 21c - 23c, sometimes lower or higher depending on if I'm feeling too cold.

But I appreciate your input and after doing a lot of reading over the past few days, it seems that although my chip is not GREAT it is pretty good for being an Ivy, I'm just happy that the voltage isn't too much. I remember when first trying the auto tuning feature on my bios, and HWMonitor was showing 1.48v, scared the **** out of me and I immediately shut off my computer after a minute or so.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opforwarrior*
> 
> Heat isn't an isolated consequence though... thermal shutdown lies at the end of that road, no? (ie, instability)


This is incorrect. Thermal shutdown is thermal shutdown, instability is instability. Thermal shutdown happen when CPU temps exceeds the designated temperature threshold for that CPU. It has nothing to do with instability. It only means the cooling system unable to handle the heat from the CPU. Instability means the CPU unable to maintain the overclocked CPU frequency. One of the reason why it's unstable (usually) is because the voltage is too low or not enough.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opforwarrior*
> 
> "• Vcore - This is the voltage feed to the cpu, increasing this will allow stability however the lower the voltage required to maintain stablility the better. "
> http://whirlpool.net.au/wiki/rmp_i7_920_overclocking
> 
> "As we increase the processor's operating frequency, we're going to need to increase VCore in order to facilitate higher switching frequencies of the processor core. The conventional method of doing this is simply to set voltage control to manual mode and type in the required voltage for stability at the selected operating frequency. However, the side effect of using this method is that the applied voltage code (VID) remains static under all loading conditions so we end up increasing power consumption and heat production under light loading conditions unnecessarily."
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?2162-Overclocking-Using-Offset-Mode-for-CPU-Core-Voltage
> 
> "When a processor is overclocked the processor increases the core voltage at the cost of system stability, power consumption and heat dissipation. This is known as overvolting."
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CPU_core_voltage
> 
> Some conflicting or misinterpreted info out there....


I don't see any conflicting interpretation or information in the above quotes. They all agree when overclocking Vcore also need to increase for stability. Higher the voltage = higher power consumption = higher heat output. That is why when increasing Vcore to compensate higher CPU frequency, the lower the voltage the better. For example, you can run 4.3GHz OC with Vcore 1.5V but 1.5V is too high. The right course of action is to lower it. Every time lowering the voltage, run a quick stability test using P95 or IBT or any stress test program for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Keep lowering Vcore until you get BSOD when running stability test. So, the last stable voltage is the minimum Vcore you need for that speed. When overclocking, heat output will increased. The only thing you can do is to minimized it. This all depend on the quality of the chips.

(The second quote is explaining the difference between manual voltage & offset voltage. Of course, when using manual voltage, VID & Vcore remain static regardless the speed. So, even when idle the power consumption will be high & this cause unnecessary high heat output.) VID (Voltage Identification) is the default Vcore the CPU needs to run at stock frequency. VID is set at factory & each chip has different VID. Basically, VID is the voltage CPU requested & Vcore is the voltage CPU get.


----------



## SkateZilla

Corsair H100 on CPU and H80 on GPU.

Also gonna have Corsair on a new Backup rig, just havent decided between h100 and H100i yet, since they are both the same price right now.


----------



## SlackerITGuy

So guys, I just ordered a 2nd generation H60 from Amazon like 5 minutes ago, what would you recommend me? to use only the fan that comes with the H60 (SP120) or also use the back 120mm one that came with my case (650D) in a push pull config?

Thanks!, really looking forward to using the H60.


----------



## Tman5293

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlackerITGuy*
> 
> So guys, I just ordered a 2nd generation H60 from Amazon like 5 minutes ago, what would you recommend me? to use only the fan that comes with the H60 (SP120) or also use the back 120mm one that came with my case (650D) in a push pull config?
> 
> Thanks!, really looking forward to using the H60.


I would recommend that you buy one of these and use it as the push fan:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181026

And use the stock fan (SP120L) as the pull fan.


----------



## ralph9994

Hi,

I Ordered my H100i today. But i'm new to all this water cooling thing. And did some research.
I noticed that there are fans better suited for cases and others better for radiators. (more static pressure I believe?)

What are recommended fans for (push pull) the h100i?
Or are this just the SP120's from corsair?

thanks.


----------



## js593

Anyone know if there is a Corsair rep on here? Looking for warranty information on canadian products and possible turn around time. I think my H100 is about to **** the bed.

Thanks,
Dan


----------



## SlackerITGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> Anyone know if there is a Corsair rep on here? Looking for warranty information on canadian products and possible turn around time. I think my H100 is about to **** the bed.
> 
> Thanks,
> Dan


Search for CorsairGeorge.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ralph9994*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I Ordered my H100i today. But i'm new to all this water cooling thing. And did some research.
> I noticed that there are fans better suited for cases and others better for radiators. (more static pressure I believe?)
> 
> What are recommended fans for (push pull) the h100i?
> Or are this just the SP120's from corsair?
> 
> thanks.


the included SP120s are great for radiators.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opforwarrior*
> 
> I must have been misunderstood. Part of my confusion is in NOT being able to crash my system... no failure at max settings, so I'm just lost in the woods without "true north".
> 
> I meant to repeat other's advice to the effect :
> An increase in cpu clocking, has a corresponding increase in heat.
> Additionally, voltage (which increases heat) must be increased [to match the increase in clock].
> As heat increases stability decreases.
> As voltage is raised [ and here's where i'm having problems with some advice I have read , but can't find a link now] some "guru's" have advised raising the voltage to increase "stability", in the assumption that its the heat CAUSING the instability.
> As heat increases stability decreases.
> 
> Maybe you can start be defining "stable" .. are all overclockers meaning the same thing?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Obviously this is a paradox (catch.22)... and like most mysteries, is based upon misinformed expert opinion. I'm not arguing, I'm looking for a community consensus as to the rightness/wrongness of this guys thinking, becasue i'm having some problems with his logic, not defending it.
> 
> With the little i've uncovered, I was suprised to learn the low voltage on my CPU was not a bad thing ... it IS stable (i5-3570k oc 4.5ghz @ 1.08v running prime95 in the low 50's c). But my wattage is low also (45w) ... (becasue my voltage is low?... which is low,because my temps are low?)
> 
> I'm just trying to wrap my head around these variables. I've looked at the "guides" ... mostly ongoing conversations, back-slapping and a stream of acronyms I have to google... and nothing for my setup hardware/bios. I've looked at utube ... mostly shallow reviews or Intel marketing fluff **. Went to Intel... all waving hands, smoke & mirrors ... ( ***!! did a rabbit just pop out of his hat?***)
> 
> Below is a link to a review of *Intel Visual Bios ... it has screenshots of every options page, maybe you can suggest some particular settings for boosting performance?
> http://techgage.com/article/intel_dz77ga-70k_motherboard_review/2/
> 
> Below is a link to a utube video review of same.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dpZr2khbPWQ
> 
> Below are "Intel Engineer's Dave & Greg"... whom I'd like to punch in the head.
> ** http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJ9jmSari4g
> *** http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/desktops/desktop-boards-cooling-overview-video.html
> 
> Intel Z77GA-70K (Intel Visual Bios*)
> Intel i5-3570K
> Corsair H50 Cooler (rated for 130+ tdp CPU's ... i'm pushing just a fraction ... pump speed was single biggest cooling factor in my tests, fans second, case flow 3rd)
> Corsair TX 850 (kicks in the teeth of the TX 750 ... much heavier, lower % system load means less heat/fan/noise)
> Corsair Vengence LP 1600 (4x4GB)
> EVGA GTX 660 TI 3GB OC ( my gtx 260 was ok... now i'll see what i was missing)
> Seagate 1TB sata II (the weaklink ... have 4- 2tb sataIII but they are full & I blew my load on the build.. had this new in box)
> Intel 520 120GB [Smart Response & Readyboost Caches] ( 5 sec boots... after post... 3 sec shutdown... responsive,feels like some windows open before i even clicked)
> Antec 902 Mid-tower
> Plantronics Gamecon780 Headset (nice 7.1surround, cheap online @ $47... valve has custom logo'd [email protected] $78)
> Thermaltake BlacX dual esata (works well , but machine won't boot when it's turned on... maybe a bios boot setting pointing at the esata, haven't looked into it, or, whether the mobo has port doubling)
> 
> ___
> Once upon a time I worked for the Apple reseller in Portland, Oregon. Also, Egghead.com (Vancouver,WA), phonesales, when they went under in 2001.
> 
> I love my toys.... I've got some old dells (Optiplex GX250-P4, Optiplex 745's-755's - c2d's), systemax c2d, (2) hp xw4400's ( I'd like to upgrades the 1.8ghz c2d's to quadcores), newer amd laptop, Apple G3,G4, (8) G5 Xserves & a tower full of network gear ... (5) 23" 'project' monitors that need new caps....
> 
> All of my Intel based machines (exept the P4 .. mx440?) run Nvida GTX 260's, 250 or 240's. After 20 years of ATI's inferior Apple vga's and worthless drivers... they lost me FOR-EVA! Don't belive? I have a dozen of them... fricken 8mb vram in 2000!!??!!. They were the reason you couln't game on the mac. Shiiii... I have equipment older than many of you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( I threw out my lcIII, finally)
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *opforwarrior*
> 
> lol ... I WAS very calm and spent two hours reviseing it... i think your expectections might be too high.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like mine in thinking i'm going to get any simple awnsers here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ok its's stable and maybe i haven't been clear enough... i'm looking for a liitle help here.
> 
> Unmitigated heat isn't an isolated incident without consequence to the system... thermal shutdown lies at the end of that road, no? (ie, instability)
> 
> Maybe you can start be defining "stable" .. are all overclockers meaning the same thing?
> 
> Overclocking! OK... now were are getting somewhere... using what you know of overclocking... and using the information i provided, about my bios, in my rambling monolouge above... can you give me REAL practical numbers i can start plugging in? Am I bound by my bios limitations? What are they?
> 
> Your assertion that H50 is mediocre is not proven by my results. I'm reading about others running 3570k and unable to make it stable or crash free @ 4.3ghz @ 1.25 volts. I can't get it to crash or even warm up. Tuning my fans got me 7c... forcing the mobo to runs the pump at 1400 rpm instead of the 823 rpm , gave me 10c ... neg pressure in the case... another 3c. I was running , as you say in the 70's... now 50's when oc's and running prime95. YMMV
> 
> My guess is Intel is flipping a switch behind the curtain on my settings in the auto overclock... It says full load , but not registering any real overclock. As I don't know enough to ask inteligent questions, perhaps... you can just look over the bios and give me the settings, instead of giving me a hard time, k?
> 
> Note: I was just gaming in stock mode (a :source game) ... I left the game running and checked some stats .. 23c on the processors 41c max... 17% load ... 2200ghz .. Ok.. maybe it didn't need any more power to push out 125-250 fps .. but still , how can i kick this thing in the @ss? how much power saving does a high end gaming chip need?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> chat on steam?
> =(eG)= OPFORWARRIOR
Click to expand...

OK lets step back and take a breath here ... OPFORWARRIOR you remind me way back when I 1st discovered overclocking (P4 days







) ... your a bright guy and have a very analitical/logical way of approaching tasks, and trust me it will be hard to learn/absorb all the nuances of overclocking in just a few days, (which is your nature







) even with the now oversimplisict nature of the 1155 platform!

Like I said earlier I'm not familiar with the Intel bios' and it's OC nature. But I took a look at your Intel bios links and that's one nice looking/comprehensive bios! I think I mislead you earlier when I said to start clocking through the bios ... I should've said start MANUALLY clocking through the bios instead of using the "presets" or what we use to refer to as "software" clocking ... for starters do exactly what the guy did in the "youtube" video .... (oversimplified) *manually* setting the cpu multiplier to 48 (maybe start at 4.6?), disable speedstep, disable some or all of your power saving features, BUT also manually set your CPU vCore to what your max voltage is now (or bump it to 1.30-1.35v). I like to use SuperPI (1m/8m) as a quick initial stability test. When you get the hang (no pun







) of it you will be able to "sense" instability and get an "error out" before the annoying BSOD and CMOS reset. Raise your voltage (watch load temps!) or lower your clock when this happens, until your stable???? Wow did you open a can of worms with this statement ... Quote:

*Maybe you can start be defining "stable" .. are all overclockers meaning the same thing?*

NO they are not ... all depends on your "mission statement" ... is it a NASA critical "simulator" / a folding rig / or everyday gaming/general use machine? .... for me 8hrs of P95 is my general standard, and depending on the "use" and overclock I'll get away with 2hrs of Prime (20min of custom 1344FFT / 1792FFT's) 98% of the time







... you'll know what I mean depending on how much time you put into it or how many platforms you overclock with in the future ...









What to do next is a matter of taste ... keep bumping the multi and/or vCore OR start with a higher vCore (1.45v?) to find your desired multi and work vCore backwards ... if you can get to a 4.8 - 5.0GHz overclock without crashing your rig I'll personally send you a "Cookie"!








Hmmmm we didn't even get to overclocking your RAM









I could write pages on this (hence OC links) and We are getting pretty far off topic for this thread ... So I would also suggest starting your own thread [HERE] ... your only challenge there is weeding out the "mis-information" and there will be some







, but that is *half the fun of sites like OCN* for me in the 1st place









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deceit*
> 
> Hi TomcatV, thanks for your reply.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not after mad max clocks, so I think I'm very happy for now. There was a bit of instability when playing some games, but I'm running offset voltage +0.005, and I had all C states enabled. I left C1E enabled (as recommended by many ppl here and other tech forums it seems), and turned off C3, C6, and Package C. Haven't had any issues with crashes or random behavior since. I thought it may have been the CPU getting random drops in voltage, when checking CPU-Z the overclocked frequency fluctuates a lot, from max 4.6ghz to around 2.0ghz to 1.6ghz (minimum). Average voltage and maximum have remained unchanged, still not seeing anything higher than 1.238vcore. Once, I saw 1.24 which was kind of weird. Anyway now I turned off most C states I don't get weird fluctuations in my frequency when the CPU is actually under load (even for a lighweight program or game).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for my ambients they are usually around 21c - 23c, sometimes lower or higher depending on if I'm feeling too cold.
> 
> But I appreciate your input and after doing a lot of reading over the past few days, it seems that although my chip is not GREAT it is pretty good for being an Ivy, I'm just happy that the voltage isn't too much. I remember when first trying the auto tuning feature on my bios, and HWMonitor was showing 1.48v, scared the **** out of me and I immediately shut off my computer after a minute or so
> 
> 
> .


Your welcome







... IMO your observations are "Right On"! ... for fun watch the "frequency" variations in "Real Temp" (w/high refresh) ...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlackerITGuy*
> 
> So guys, I just ordered a 2nd generation H60 from Amazon like 5 minutes ago, what would you recommend me? to use only the fan that comes with the H60 (SP120) or also use the back 120mm one that came with my case (650D) in a push pull config?
> Thanks!, really looking forward to using the H60.


If I'm not mistaken doesn't the 2nd Gen H60 come with this fan already ... [HERE]
In any event I'd set it up stock and start from there ... how high of an OC do you want? You've got a nice case (hence good circulation) you may be surprised how well it performs at stock depending on your overclock and ambients, and it will not hurt to experiment with your case fan in the pull position









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ralph9994*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I Ordered my H100i today. But i'm new to all this water cooling thing. And did some research.
> I noticed that there are fans better suited for cases and others better for radiators. (more static pressure I believe?)
> 
> What are recommended fans for (push pull) the h100i?
> Or are this just the SP120's from corsair?
> thanks.


Again depends on overclocks, 24/7 use etc, BUT the H100i stock fans have proven to be very efficient with both static pressure and noise levels. Most of the H100 (note: the H100i seems to be even more efficient) users have found a push/pull system is "Overkill" for the average overclock/ambients with solid case ventilation, which you'll easily achieve with the 650D









Trust me or search H100 push/pull within this thread ... like [HERE]









But if you find the need or just want push/pull ... you can't go wrong just matching the SP120's that come w/the H100i. see comments above


----------



## Deceit

Hi TomcatV, quick question for you. The default fans that come with the H100i, how are they different than the SP120 high static pressure fans sold by Corsair separately? Same fans? Different?

Thanks and have a great day.


----------



## opforwarrior

Thanks Kizwan & TomcatV ... (is it wrong to want to kiss you both?)

Thanks for the clear logical thoughts you laid out, this gives me some data reference points to make my way along... I'll be back.


----------



## qbical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deceit*
> 
> Hi TomcatV, quick question for you. The default fans that come with the H100i, how are they different than the SP120 high static pressure fans sold by Corsair separately? Same fans? Different?
> 
> Thanks and have a great day.


here are the specs i found

stock fans with H100i
Fan speed: 2700 RPM
Fan airflow: 77 CFM
Fan dBA: 37.68 dBA
Fan static pressure: 4mm/H20

Corsair Air Series
Size 120mm x 25mm
Operating Voltage 7V - 12V
Performance at 12V
Airflow 62.74 CFM
Static Pressure 3.1 mm/H20
Sound Level 35 dBA
Speed 2350 RPM
Power Draw 0.18 A


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deceit*
> 
> Hi TomcatV, quick question for you. The default fans that come with the H100i, how are they different than the SP120 high static pressure fans sold by Corsair separately? Same fans? Different?
> 
> Thanks and have a great day.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *qbical*
> 
> here are the specs i found
> 
> stock fans with H100i
> Fan speed: 2700 RPM
> Fan airflow: 77 CFM
> Fan dBA: 37.68 dBA
> Fan static pressure: 4mm/H20
> 
> Corsair Air Series
> Size 120mm x 25mm
> Operating Voltage 7V - 12V
> Performance at 12V
> Airflow 62.74 CFM
> Static Pressure 3.1 mm/H20
> Sound Level 35 dBA
> Speed 2350 RPM
> Power Draw 0.18 A
Click to expand...

[/quote]

*qbical* is right on with the stats ... AND I also believe they are pretty much identical fans, they are just operating at different RPM's, although I have not personally had any of the new "i" series "physically" in my hands, yet









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opforwarrior*
> 
> Thanks Kizwan & TomcatV ... (is it wrong to want to kiss you both?)
> 
> Thanks for the clear logical thoughts you laid out, this gives me some data reference points to make my way along... I'll be back.


No Problem







... let us know if you start a new thread and/OR just report back here ... I see rapid success in your future Young Jedi LoL







... PS I'll pass on the "Barney Frank" proposition LoL


----------



## cowsgomoo

I just put a H60 (a few months old but never used) in a friend's SG05 case. Case is still open so ventilation doesn't matter. Temperature is hitting 100C at 28C ambient with Intel burn test at max. CPU is i5-3470. Is this normal? I have disabled speed control for the pump's chassis fan connection and it should be running at full speed. Fans are in push-pull. I assume the pump is working because the noise level differs a lot when I change the chassis fan speed.

Edit: Ignore the above. I realized that the pump was plugged into the CPU fan, the fan was connected to the chassis fan, so that was the fan noise. Now I can't tell whether the pump is actually working or not. Temps are still hitting an unhealthy 100C, radiator feels warm to the touch but not scalding warm.


----------



## js593

I used Intel Burn in test myself with my I5-3570K and I seen temps that triggered both my asus program and Intel to stop it. Im using MX4 as a thermal paste, but i think this H100 has issues.


----------



## Redwoodz

Well finally jumped in the water








Bought a refurb H60 from Fry's for $36.

After tinkering for a couple days,I am very pleased with the results.

Here's a screen from today's bench session,with 18c ambient temp.


Even with 28c ambient CPU idles at 32c,max around 44c.

All I am running is the stock fan as intake and a TT 3,000RPM exhaust.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zackotsu*
> 
> a bit disappointed with H100i..it's only been 2 weeks since i've put this thing on my rig and now out of the RGB leds, only the R and G is functioning and my B is practically dead..as in DEAD..dafuq..the performance is still ok though but common..what's the purpose of having a RGB led indicator if one of those just died like 2 weeks after installation..now i have to practically remove the bloody thing to get it RMA..i'm a bit of dismay cause i just sold my D14..wew..as of now the R and G are still working though..this just sucks..


I feel for ya man, but stuff happens.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlackerITGuy*
> 
> So guys, I just ordered a 2nd generation H60 from Amazon like 5 minutes ago, what would you recommend me? to use only the fan that comes with the H60 (SP120) or also use the back 120mm one that came with my case (650D) in a push pull config?
> 
> Thanks!, really looking forward to using the H60.


You could use the stock H60 fan as a push fan and your case fan would be fine as a pull fan. However I would recommend purchasing a fan that better matches the H60 fan if you can. In any case, Corsair George recommends using the fan with the higher static pressure as the push fan.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ralph9994*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I Ordered my H100i today. But i'm new to all this water cooling thing. And did some research.
> I noticed that there are fans better suited for cases and others better for radiators. (more static pressure I believe?)
> 
> What are recommended fans for (push pull) the h100i?
> Or are this just the SP120's from corsair?
> 
> thanks.


The fans that come with the H100i are pretty good fans, and you could match them up with some high static pressure fans from Corsair (the SP versions). Personally I would avoid the "silent" version. There are tons of fans out there with decent static pressure (Yate Loons, Scythe AP15) and you could even go here:

http://www.xbitlabs.com/picture/?src=/images/coolers/120mm-fan-roundup-2/01_spec_big.png

and here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/859483/round-6-fan-testing-working-thread

and read up on good rad fans. Just remember, the H100(i) has a thinner rad so you may not see much benefit from push/pull. Corsair says they tested it in a lab and basically got no difference at all. Others have tested and said they only got one degree difference. Some of those tests are in this thread.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> Anyone know if there is a Corsair rep on here? Looking for warranty information on canadian products and possible turn around time. I think my H100 is about to **** the bed.
> 
> Thanks,
> Dan


Corsair George is a member here, but I think you can email him at [email protected]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cowsgomoo*
> 
> I just put a H60 (a few months old but never used) in a friend's SG05 case. Case is still open so ventilation doesn't matter. Temperature is hitting 100C at 28C ambient with Intel burn test at max. CPU is i5-3470. Is this normal? I have disabled speed control for the pump's chassis fan connection and it should be running at full speed. Fans are in push-pull. I assume the pump is working because the noise level differs a lot when I change the chassis fan speed.
> 
> Edit: Ignore the above. I realized that the pump was plugged into the CPU fan, the fan was connected to the chassis fan, so that was the fan noise. Now I can't tell whether the pump is actually working or not. Temps are still hitting an unhealthy 100C, radiator feels warm to the touch but not scalding warm.


The most common fault in mounting these coolers is having a main board with a row of capacitors that are too close to the CPU socket. This can cause one side of the block to be out of contact with the CPU. The solution is to rotate the block 90 degrees, which usually allows the block to mount and avoid the capacitors.

Another issue to avoid is having the fans pointed in opposite directions. It may seem like an obvious thing, but people have been known to do it. Make sure they're both moving air in the same direction.

You can download and run Speedfan. It will show you the RPM of everything connected to fan headers. My H100 pump runs at 2023 RPM, but I'm not sure what the H60 runs at.

FYI guys, the thermal interface material on the newer Corsair products is made by Dow Corning, and Corsair George says it works as well as Shin Etsu, which is basically some of the best TIM you can get. You don't have to replace it.


----------



## cowsgomoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> The most common fault in mounting these coolers is having a main board with a row of capacitors that are too close to the CPU socket. This can cause one side of the block to be out of contact with the CPU. The solution is to rotate the block 90 degrees, which usually allows the block to mount and avoid the capacitors.


Thank you good sir, that was exactly the problem. I was shocked to find the thermal pad almost fully intact when I removed the block. After reseating it, stress temp has dropped to ~60-65C.


----------



## agenttwisted

my temps with my h100i


----------



## paulwarden2505

Temp of my Phenom ii 1090t with fans drawing cold air in to system


----------



## ez12a

So half of my h100i broke.




I would not recommend the h100i for purchase until Corsair can get the kinks worked out.


----------



## MerkageTurk

man you can RMA or me for example had no problems with the h100i, this may be 1 in 100,000 cases or such.


----------



## Nastroglide

I have a H100i on the way and was wondering about the new pump. Is it powerful enough to use this rad: http://tinyurl.com/b3ybk23

Going to be modding it and if the pump is good enough, will get the new H60 too. Going to use them on my new chiller design.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nastroglide*
> 
> I have a H100i on the way and was wondering about the new pump. Is it powerful enough to use this rad: http://tinyurl.com/b3ybk23
> 
> Going to be modding it and if the pump is good enough, will get the new H60 too. Going to use them on my new chiller design.


Why people buy H100s to mod is beyond me. .. the pump is only designed for the unit itself.


----------



## Nastroglide

Here you go. Enlighten yourself. 0*c on my 3770K.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> So half of my h100i broke.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would not recommend the h100i for purchase until Corsair can get the kinks worked out.


That's really too bad. When Corsair came out with the M90 mouse, the software was all buggered up too. Eventually they got it working properly.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nastroglide*
> 
> Here you go. Enlighten yourself. 0*c on my 3770K.


I've seen a person here build a chiller with Corsiar Hydro before. Do you have build log or link to a tutorial how to build one?


----------



## Nastroglide

Yeah kind of:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1298546/heres-my-first-attempt-at-a-chiller


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deceit*
> 
> Hi TomcatV, quick question for you. The default fans that come with the H100i, how are they different than the SP120 high static pressure fans sold by Corsair separately? Same fans? Different?
> 
> Thanks and have a great day.


Same fans just don't have the color ring and soft mounting at the corners. The work very nicely. If you do do push pull you are just as good if not better using AF's for the pull as static pressure does it's work in push. No need for SP's in pull or case fans - exhaust or intake. I have heard the Tyhpoons do well also for the push fans if you want to go away from Corsair.


----------



## Devildog83

I have the H100i and have no issues with temps or controlling the 2 fans on the radiator and a bottom intake and rear exhaust. The only issue I have with the software is the it reads the CPU temp at 5c to 7c when the actual is about 30c by all other software including the AI suite mobo software. I am going to assume Corsair has heard of this and will fix it with a firmware update. Anyone else experience this.


----------



## ralph9994

Got a question.

I got the "Updated the firmware, LED stops working, fans run at 100%, temp fix by connecting fans to my fan controller:"" issue.

I've heard that a lot of other people have this problem.

What to do?


----------



## opty165

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I have the H100i and have no issues with temps or controlling the 2 fans on the radiator and a bottom intake and rear exhaust. The only issue I have with the software is the it reads the CPU temp at 5c to 7c when the actual is about 30c by all other software including the AI suite mobo software. I am going to assume Corsair has heard of this and will fix it with a firmware update. Anyone else experience this.


I see you're running an FX chip. The temp you are seeing is the socket temp I believe. The 30c is the core temps. I may be wrong though, but it's not a corsair issue.


----------



## jellywolf996

Hi i just got my h80i today. Any tips on the installation. What version of link is best, with the least bugs.


----------



## ralph9994

Also add me in!

Here is my semi-broken h100i


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opty165*
> 
> I see you're running an FX chip. The temp you are seeing is the socket temp I believe. The 30c is the core temps. I may be wrong though, but it's not a corsair issue.


Thanx, I usually have the AI monitor running right next to the Corsair link so it's not an issue. I have temps and fam speeds of everything on the board available to except the memory with just a click and I don't really think this Samsung RAM would be able to overheat if I tried so i should be good.


----------



## jellywolf996

Does anyone know where you can buy another fan cable adapter to plug in the h80i.


----------



## Anth0789

Just switched out the Corsair fans with my Scythe Gentle Typhoons and wow there is a huge difference in sound.

Here is a few more pics with everything up and running normal even with 3 screws.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## agenttwisted

i have 2 Xigmatek AOS XAF-F1255 120MM fans for my h100i on the way. have ~90cfm at <20dbs. im hoping the 77cfm of stock to 90cfm will make a difference. ive already pushed my cooling as far as i can with out going full water or nitrogen. i have ducting from window to computer, coollaboratory liquid metal ultra, and of course, my h100i

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233101


----------



## OverClocker55

Half broken h100i?


----------



## Milestailsprowe

How does the new h60 compare to the older one. How much better is it


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agenttwisted*
> 
> i have 2 Xigmatek AOS XAF-F1255 120MM fans for my h100i on the way. have ~90cfm at <20dbs. im hoping the 77cfm of stock to 90cfm will make a difference. ive already pushed my cooling as far as i can with out going full water or nitrogen. i have ducting from window to computer, coollaboratory liquid metal ultra, and of course, my h100i
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233101


Those fans may have slightly better cfm, but they have half the static pressure (2.3mmH2O vs 4mmH2O) . I think you're just wasting your money. You should have tried looking for fans with a higher static pressure. Personally, I don't think the fans you picked are going to make any difference, at least not a positive one.

Did you document your change to the Liquid Ultra? I would have been interested in seeing that.


----------



## TND2pointO

I just wanted to share that I am running my FX-8320 with an H40! I sanded the base (because it was too poor a job to call it lapping I think) which actually cut my core temps by about 5*C and socket by about 3*C. I can't really overclock much with it as you might expect, if I bring it up to 4 GHz then it gets about as hot as the stock cooler did at stock speeds.

This H40 was sitting in my old HTPC system because I wanted that system to be very quiet, since the stock HS was so loud with this FX chip I decided to move it to this system - HTPC is now just a media server so its not in the living room and I don't care about its noise. I am actually very happy that it can handle the load with good temps and run quieter than the stock unit did.

I actually got better temps in my case mounting the radiator as an exhaust, instead of the recommended intake setup.

I have had this unit for a year or so now, and it has had no problems. I think these are great!


----------



## ralph9994

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Half broken h100i?


Pump and rad are working fine. So are the fans. The rest is broken.


----------



## jellywolf996

my h80i wont display cpu temp.
help


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ralph9994*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Half broken h100i?
> 
> 
> 
> Pump and rad are working fine. So are the fans. The rest is broken.
Click to expand...

Like the software?I would request a RMA then.


----------



## jellywolf996

Yh the link software wont display temps.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellywolf996*
> 
> my h80i wont display cpu temp.
> help


What do you mean? Try installing HWmonitor.


----------



## jellywolf996

It shows it on hwmonitor


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellywolf996*
> 
> It shows it on hwmonitor


Then what is the problem?


----------



## jellywolf996

It does not show up on the link software. So i cant set fans to % when temperature reaches a given temp.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellywolf996*
> 
> It does not show up on the link software. So i cant set fans to % when temperature reaches a given temp.


Reinstall link?


----------



## jellywolf996

thank you overclocker55


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellywolf996*
> 
> thank you overclocker55


Yeah. I would just delete the program or try and repair install the program. Good Luck!


----------



## jellywolf996

it works again thank you


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellywolf996*
> 
> it works again thank you


Yep no problem


----------



## DUpgrade

Installed my H80i last night with SP120 Quiet edition fans, skipped the stock fans.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Installed my H80i last night with SP120 Quiet edition fans, skipped the stock fans.


Nice!


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Installed my H80i last night with SP120 Quiet edition fans, skipped the stock fans.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks Good!


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Installed my H80i last night with SP120 Quiet edition fans, skipped the stock fans.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice ... Looks Good







BUT doesn't tell us anything









I'm sure I'm not alone in that I'd like more info? ... Like comparative load temps between the QE and HP edition fans in your "real world" setup? ... is your 2600K overclocked? ... How bout even your "subjective" opinion on how much quieter you think they are and at what loss of performance ... if any?

Obviously noise was the concern, so for the cost of the Quiet edition fans, maybe? you could've stepped up to the H100i and recieved comparable performance with less noise which was definately obtainable with the H100 vs H80? ...

Over and over again I see the question asked? ... should I get the H80/(i) or the H100/(i) ...
So any and all info is Helpful









PS ... H100/H100i easily fits into the CM 912 ... see [HERE]

*EDIT: Overclocker55* ... I think *THIS* is a VERY USEFUL thread and should somehow be linked on your Thread Starter/cover page







... one of the top 5 questions is ... will a H100 fit in my case?


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Nice ... Looks Good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT doesn't tell us anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure I'm not alone in that I'd like more info? ... Like comparative load temps between the QE and HP edition fans in your "real world" setup? ... is your 2600K overclocked? ... How bout even your "subjective" opinion on how much quieter you think they are and at what loss of performance ... if any?
> 
> Obviously noise was the concern, so for the cost of the Quiet edition fans, maybe? you could've stepped up to the H100i and recieved comparable performance with less noise which was definately obtainable with the H100 vs H80? ...
> 
> Over and over again I see the question asked? ... should I get the H80/(i) or the H100/(i) ...
> So any and all info is Helpful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS ... H100/H100i easily fits into the CM 912 ... see [HERE]


Well I turned my OC down to 4ghz and using Prime95 100% load or Intel Burn Test it wasn't going over 60c. My room temp is around 23c so the delta is right around the 40c range. I've only been using it for a day so I plan to increase my OC and compare my previous cooler (CM Hyper 212+ push/pull) temps. I may even try the stock fans just to see what kind of performance difference I might be missing out on from those higher RPM fans.

With regards to H100i vs H80i, it was a price and the "will it fit" argument. The H100i needs 50mm of clearance on the roof of the case, standard fan is 25mm so I put two together and in my opinion, didn't like the way it looked and how close may have come to the ram. With that said, I picked up the H80i on sale, then of course turned around and used the savings to buy SP120 quiet twin pack (best value) which were also on sale.









I like my system quiet and some reviews on the fans that come with the H100i/H80i said they're loud. I also happen to like the SP120 fans they sell seperate more because of they have a quiet version and come with color rings to match the rig. It all comes down to personal preference but I like the results I'm getting.


----------



## Devildog83

I have found from reading a lot that the H100i is about 3 to 5 C cooler than the H80i so if you have the room since the price is not much different I would go with the H100i. When I was running with no bottom fan and just the 2 120s that came with the C70 for intake it was not as cool as I was when I added an AF 140 quiet in the bottom so the intake flow would be as much as the exhaust, also the fans SP's pushing through the radiator never needed to go higher than balanced - just under 1400 rpm - so the system stayed very quiet and cool. My case has a lot of room and great airflow so others that don't may get different results. The 3 degrees would not make much of a difference to me because I run cool but the H80i would cover up the mobo and I would rather have it over my VRMs.


----------



## General121

http://www.techpowerup.com/178916/Corsair-Introduces-the-Hydro-Series-H110-and-H90-Liquid-CPU-Coolers.html
^^Nah id get one of those


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/178916/Corsair-Introduces-the-Hydro-Series-H110-and-H90-Liquid-CPU-Coolers.html
> ^^Nah id get one of those


Very cool, I wonder if the H90 would work well for a GPU cooler ? I could fit it in the bottom of my case easy.


----------



## devilpriest

I just got a H100i that is kind of starting to let me down at the moment. The problem is, that before the h100i I had an Arctic Cooling Freezer 13 Pro which could handle my i5-3570k very well even with small overclocking (4.2 - 4.4 GHz); it held the temps well under 80 degrees C even at 4.4 under full stress in Prime. Only one core barely got over 80 degrees, somewhere close to 82 or something like that.
ANYWAY, to get back to the reason I started this thread. After installing the H100i water cooling system on my rig, I got temps reaching 80 degrees very quick, and with only 4.2 GHz overclock. I mounted the H100i as intake (as suggested in the manual) with the 2 stock fans it came with. After the dissapointing temps I mounted 2 extra fans, so I would have a push-pull configuration. The changed wasn't that noticeable. So I changed the thermal paste on the cpu with some Arctic Silver Ceramique 2. This helped a bit, because now my temps stay under 80 degrees on 4.2GHz and barely reach 80 on 4.4GHz.
MY PROBLEM is that I'm getting the same temps with my H100i that I got with my Arctic Cooling Freezer 13 Pro air cooler. I spent a lot more on a water cooling system just to get the same results I was getting with an air cooling system that was 3-4 times cheaper.
So MY QUESTION is: is there anything I could do to get better performance out of my H100i so I wouldn't feel like I threw money out the window?

My case is a NZXT Gamma, the h100i radiator is mounted on the top of the case as an intake. I got a pretty cool case, I've never had issues with high temps, because it is full of fans that are mounted as they should and do their job very well. For example: my MSI Gtx 660 TwinFrz3 is at 28 degrees in idle, and never reaches 56 in full load; my cpu (with my old air cooler) was on idle at 21-24 degrees and 60 in full load (not in prime). Everything in my case stays pretty cool, so there is nothing that should make the H100i not do it's job as it should.


----------



## Nastroglide

Got my H100i installed and been running it for a few days. No ploblems, newest firmware already, and mid 20's to low 30's temps on my 3770K. I'm impressed so far.


Can't wait to get a H80i and tear both of these apart to make my new tec chiller! Then I can get back to 0*C temps.

Oh, and I'll be getting a new psu next week and cleaning up all those wires! Build is still in progress....


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilpriest*
> 
> I just got a H100i that is kind of starting to let me down at the moment. The problem is, that before the h100i I had an Arctic Cooling Freezer 13 Pro which could handle my i5-3570k very well even with small overclocking (4.2 - 4.4 GHz); it held the temps well under 80 degrees C even at 4.4 under full stress in Prime. Only one core barely got over 80 degrees, somewhere close to 82 or something like that.
> ANYWAY, to get back to the reason I started this thread. After installing the H100i water cooling system on my rig, I got temps reaching 80 degrees very quick, and with only 4.2 GHz overclock. I mounted the H100i as intake (as suggested in the manual) with the 2 stock fans it came with. After the dissapointing temps I mounted 2 extra fans, so I would have a push-pull configuration. The changed wasn't that noticeable. So I changed the thermal paste on the cpu with some Arctic Silver Ceramique 2. This helped a bit, because now my temps stay under 80 degrees on 4.2GHz and barely reach 80 on 4.4GHz.
> MY PROBLEM is that I'm getting the same temps with my H100i that I got with my Arctic Cooling Freezer 13 Pro air cooler. I spent a lot more on a water cooling system just to get the same results I was getting with an air cooling system that was 3-4 times cheaper.
> So MY QUESTION is: is there anything I could do to get better performance out of my H100i so I wouldn't feel like I threw money out the window?
> 
> My case is a NZXT Gamma, the h100i radiator is mounted on the top of the case as an intake. I got a pretty cool case, I've never had issues with high temps, because it is full of fans that are mounted as they should and do their job very well. For example: my MSI Gtx 660 TwinFrz3 is at 28 degrees in idle, and never reaches 56 in full load; my cpu (with my old air cooler) was on idle at 21-24 degrees and 60 in full load (not in prime). Everything in my case stays pretty cool, so there is nothing that should make the H100i not do it's job as it should.


Are you running the fans in pull? The static pressure fans are built for and work best in push, there is no reason to have static pressure fans if they are not pushing through the radiator. I would run them in push as exhaust instead of intake and if you want to try push/pull use some quiet high volume fans like the AF quiets. I don't know why is says to run as intake but it makes no sense to me. AMD's don't get as hot as Intel chips but mine never goes above 50C. I just have it set up as exhaust in a pull configuration and it work very nicely.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/178916/Corsair-Introduces-the-Hydro-Series-H110-and-H90-Liquid-CPU-Coolers.html
> ^^Nah id get one of those


Did you read some of the comments?

Wow.

The H90 looks like an H70 pump with a H60 rad, and the H110 looks like an H70 pump with an H100 rad. Of course, the pump could have been upgraded since the H70.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Are you running the fans in pull? The static pressure fans are built for and work best in push, there is no reason to have static pressure fans if they are not pushing through the radiator. I would run them in push as exhaust instead of intake and if you want to try push/pull use some quiet high volume fans like the AF quiets. I don't know why is says to run as intake but it makes no sense to me. AMD's don't get as hot as Intel chips but mine never goes above 50C. I just have it set up as exhaust in a pull configuration and it work very nicely.


Do you have a link to this information? From what I have seen, there is almost no difference between push and pull. Some claim there is a small difference at different RPMs, but overall people who have tested push vs pull on the hydro coolers have reported little to no difference between push and pull. I believe you can find some of those tests right here in this thread. I have also seen people comparing push vs pull in the 600T thread.

Here is a link to some push vs pull testing:

http://martinsliquidlab.i4memory.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html

From the article: "Push Vs Pull - This depends on fan speed/power. The high speed fans at 2000RPM with a 38mm fan thickness provided the best performance in a push condition. The slow speed fans with 1350RPM with a 25mm fan thickness provided the best performance in a pull condition. I would estimate that performance line is likely to cross in the 1500-1700RPM range where they are equal. So.... slow speed = pull, high speed = push, medium speed = it doesn't really matter."

If you look at the temperature difference he got between push and pull, it's almost nothing. Between the single fan push only vs pull only, he got a difference of about 0.3c.


----------



## DUpgrade

^ I've got my SP120 quiet fans (1450 rpm max) in a push/pull in exaust orientation even though the H80i manual says to run it as intake. The manual also says there is supposed to be 4 more washers and 8 small screws that have absolutely no purpose anywhere during install.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/178916/Corsair-Introduces-the-Hydro-Series-H110-and-H90-Liquid-CPU-Coolers.html
> ^^Nah id get one of those


It looks like a hybrid of older and newer parts to create a low profile product. I just found they make an H60i which only comes with a single fan. It might be for a HTPC setup where you don't have much room and need it to run relatively quiet.


----------



## devilpriest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Are you running the fans in pull? The static pressure fans are built for and work best in push, there is no reason to have static pressure fans if they are not pushing through the radiator. I would run them in push as exhaust instead of intake and if you want to try push/pull use some quiet high volume fans like the AF quiets. I don't know why is says to run as intake but it makes no sense to me. AMD's don't get as hot as Intel chips but mine never goes above 50C. I just have it set up as exhaust in a pull configuration and it work very nicely.


I have them in push right now. I will change them to pull and go from there. But I remember trying this at first, with no result. Thinking that in pull setup the fans take hot air from within the case. But at this time I'm willing to try anything just to see it working as it should.

Just changed them to pull as an exhaust... makes no difference. Temps are still running high under prime95, very close to what I was seeing with my air cooler. There's gotta be a way to improve this... I'm loosing my mind. Is there any way to make sure there's enough water in the system? Or exchange the water with something else that is more efficient?


----------



## jellywolf996

Why does the fan controll not work properly. I set the rpm to about 550 and the fans go to 670


----------



## jellywolf996

since I installed the h80i my north bridge temps have gone up 10c and I can smell a weird plastic melting/warming up smell.
could any one shine some light on this or have a solution to it.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellywolf996*
> 
> Why does the fan controll not work properly. I set the rpm to about 550 and the fans go to 670


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellywolf996*
> 
> since I installed the h80i my north bridge temps have gone up 10c and I can smell a weird plastic melting/warming up smell.
> could any one shine some light on this or have a solution to it.


It's possible that the fans simply aren't specced to run at that speed. Idk. I keep mine (SP120s) on full blast, no use for software

The plastic warming up smell sounds like the VRMs on your motherboard. Since you have less airflow over that now, it's possible that they're warming up. Open up HWInfo64 and see if anything is worryingly hot


----------



## js593

Stock I5-3570K w/ H100, load temps on "very high" on Intel burn in reaching 60-70 degrees.

Anyone run into this issue? The only thing changed in the Bios, is the auto setting, put to XMP profile. (maximus V GENE motherboard)


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Well I turned my OC down to 4ghz and using Prime95 100% load or Intel Burn Test it wasn't going over 60c. My room temp is around 23c so the delta is right around the 40c range. I've only been using it for a day so I plan to increase my OC and compare my previous cooler (CM Hyper 212+ push/pull) temps. I may even try the stock fans just to see what kind of performance difference I might be missing out on from those higher RPM fans.
> 
> With regards to H100i vs H80i, it was a price and the "will it fit" argument. The H100i needs 50mm of clearance on the roof of the case, standard fan is 25mm so I put two together and in my opinion, didn't like the way it looked and how close may have come to the ram. With that said, I picked up the H80i on sale, then of course turned around and used the savings to buy SP120 quiet twin pack (best value) which were also on sale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like my system quiet and some reviews on the fans that come with the H100i/H80i said they're loud. I also happen to like the SP120 fans they sell seperate more because of they have a quiet version and come with color rings to match the rig. It all comes down to personal preference but I like the results I'm getting.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> ^ I've got my SP120 quiet fans (1450 rpm max) in a push/pull in exaust orientation even though the H80i manual says to run it as intake. The manual also says there is supposed to be 4 more washers and 8 small screws that have absolutely no purpose anywhere during install.
> It looks like a hybrid of older and newer parts to create a low profile product. I just found they make an H60i which only comes with a single fan. It might be for a HTPC setup where you don't have much room and need it to run relatively quiet.
Click to expand...

Very nice ... thanks for the expansion on your thoughts and info








If you do go back for the head to head comparison, keep us informed








PS with your setup there should be no regrets going with the H80i over the H100i ...
Although the H100i would've fit nicely into your HAF912, ... trust me I did a build like that over a year ago








NOTE: Clearance is Radiator: 122mm x 275mm x 27mm / Fan: 120mm x 120mm x 25mm
TOTAL Thickness 52 millimeters = 2.04724409 inches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilpriest*
> 
> I just got a H100i that is kind of starting to let me down at the moment. The problem is, that before the h100i I had an Arctic Cooling Freezer 13 Pro which could handle my i5-3570k very well even with small overclocking (4.2 - 4.4 GHz); it held the temps well under 80 degrees C even at 4.4 under full stress in Prime. Only one core barely got over 80 degrees, somewhere close to 82 or something like that.
> ANYWAY, to get back to the reason I started this thread. After installing the H100i water cooling system on my rig, I got temps reaching 80 degrees very quick, and with only 4.2 GHz overclock. I mounted the H100i as intake (as suggested in the manual) with the 2 stock fans it came with. After the dissapointing temps I mounted 2 extra fans, so I would have a push-pull configuration. The changed wasn't that noticeable. So I changed the thermal paste on the cpu with some Arctic Silver Ceramique 2. This helped a bit, because now my temps stay under 80 degrees on 4.2GHz and barely reach 80 on 4.4GHz.
> MY PROBLEM is that I'm getting the same temps with my H100i that I got with my Arctic Cooling Freezer 13 Pro air cooler. I spent a lot more on a water cooling system just to get the same results I was getting with an air cooling system that was 3-4 times cheaper.
> So MY QUESTION is: is there anything I could do to get better performance out of my H100i so I wouldn't feel like I threw money out the window?
> 
> My case is a NZXT Gamma, the h100i radiator is mounted on the top of the case as an intake. I got a pretty cool case, I've never had issues with high temps, because it is full of fans that are mounted as they should and do their job very well. For example: my MSI Gtx 660 TwinFrz3 is at 28 degrees in idle, and never reaches 56 in full load; my cpu (with my old air cooler) was on idle at 21-24 degrees and 60 in full load (not in prime). Everything in my case stays pretty cool, so there is nothing that should make the H100i not do it's job as it should.


This is disturbing ... it's one of 2 things ... 1st when you remounted did you "visually" check the TIM distribution (evenly spreading?) for good/even contact? Try rotating the block 90 degrees to make sure your clearing the mobo capacitors, I know I know, it looks fine but many have had success with this simple remount ... #2 check your pumps rpm in the bios, make sure it's getting power, I'm not sure of the (i) series but your pump should be turning 2000-2200rpms, if it's not, reconnect/reinstall.
The dreaded #3 ... Corsair is very good about RMA's and if presented the facts above I'm sure they'd take care of you ASAP, because your H100i is definately underperforming







... keep us informed








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> Stock I5-3570K w/ H100, load temps on "very high" on Intel burn in reaching 60-70 degrees.
> Anyone run into this issue? The only thing changed in the Bios, is the auto setting, put to XMP profile. (maximus V GENE motherboard)


Depending on your ambients, this really isn't out of the norm, IBT is the ultimate heat stressor and can jack your load temps as much as 5-10c over a typical P95 load test ...


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> Stock I5-3570K w/ H100, load temps on "very high" on Intel burn in reaching 60-70 degrees.
> 
> Anyone run into this issue? The only thing changed in the Bios, is the auto setting, put to XMP profile. (maximus V GENE motherboard)


60-70 degrees ain't too bad.

1- What are your ambients?
2- What are the fans + pump connected to?
3- Is everything spinning up to 100% under load?
4- What voltage is the CPU pulling under load?
5- If you find it too high, try re-seating the block
6- Upgrade your fans
7- Upgrade your TIM to something like Coollabotatory Ultra

Are you looking for better performance or what? 60-70 degrees is acceptable, albeit not optimal.


----------



## OverClocker55

Thanks to a user I'll be adding an entire H80 / H80i & H100 / H100i Case Compatibility list hopefully







Let's hope this works!


----------



## js593

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Very nice ... thanks for the expansion on your thoughts and info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you do go back for the head to head comparison, keep us informed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS with your setup there should be no regrets going with the H80i over the H100i ...
> Although the H100i would've fit nicely into your HAF912, ... trust me I did a build like that over a year ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOTE: Clearance is Radiator: 122mm x 275mm x 27mm / Fan: 120mm x 120mm x 25mm
> TOTAL Thickness 52 millimeters = 2.04724409 inches
> This is disturbing ... it's one of 2 things ... 1st when you remounted did you "visually" check the TIM distribution (evenly spreading?) for good/even contact? Try rotating the block 90 degrees to make sure your clearing the mobo capacitors, I know I know, it looks fine but many have had success with this simple remount ... #2 check your pumps rpm in the bios, make sure it's getting power, I'm not sure of the (i) series but your pump should be turning 2000-2200rpms, if it's not, reconnect/reinstall.
> The dreaded #3 ... Corsair is very good about RMA's and if presented the facts above I'm sure they'd take care of you ASAP, because your H100i is definately underperforming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... keep us informed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Depending on your ambients, this really isn't out of the norm, IBT is the ultimate heat stressor and can jack your load temps as much as 5-10c over a typical P95 load test ...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> 60-70 degrees ain't too bad.
> 
> 1- What are your ambients?
> 2- What are the fans + pump connected to?
> 3- Is everything spinning up to 100% under load?
> 4- What voltage is the CPU pulling under load?
> 5- If you find it too high, try re-seating the block
> 6- Upgrade your fans
> 7- Upgrade your TIM to something like Coollabotatory Ultra
> 
> Are you looking for better performance or what? 60-70 degrees is acceptable, albeit not optimal.


h100 (Firest edition) w/ Corsair SP120 (high performance edition) fans w/ fan controller. When using IBT, i always set all my fans to max to get the "best result" However it doesn't seem to matter w/ the H100. The rad has such terrible airflow that the SP120's actually push air back into the system as well as through it.
Pump is connected to standard molex.
TIm is MX4
CPU voltage unknown under load (didnt get to that part yet)
All fans are manually set to 100% when testing)
Ambient temps are around 21-22 degrees. (its -30 outside here, so we need a warmer house)


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilpriest*
> 
> I have them in push right now. I will change them to pull and go from there. But I remember trying this at first, with no result. Thinking that in pull setup the fans take hot air from within the case. But at this time I'm willing to try anything just to see it working as it should.
> 
> Just changed them to pull as an exhaust... makes no difference. Temps are still running high under prime95, very close to what I was seeing with my air cooler. There's gotta be a way to improve this... I'm loosing my mind. Is there any way to make sure there's enough water in the system? Or exchange the water with something else that is more efficient?


You should be setting them up to push thru the radiator and out of the case. I think you might be getting confused about push/pull and intake/exhaust. Intake or exhaust is into or out of the case. Push/pull is pushing air thru or pulling it thru the radiator. If you mount the radiator from inside to the top of the case the mount the fans under it pushing air thru the radiator. i am not sure from your posts exactly what you have tried.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellywolf996*
> 
> since I installed the h80i my north bridge temps have gone up 10c and I can smell a weird plastic melting/warming up smell.
> could any one shine some light on this or have a solution to it.


I agree with DMANSTASUI, I was afraid of blocking air flow from the VRM's so I went with the C70 vengeanve case and an H100i to avoid having all that stuff over the VRM's.


----------



## mavisky

Modded H80 user here. Stock noisy fans hooked to my NZXT fan controller. 40% speed for normal use (100%) during gaming since I can only hear it a little over the headphones and the explosions anyway.

FX-4170 oc'ed to 4.909ghz - games reliably at 55c or less. Haven't run Prime95 yet. But it's stable for everything I use it for (youtube and gaming) pics of modded setup with reservoir added in my signature.


----------



## js593

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> Modded H80 user here. Stock noisy fans hooked to my NZXT fan controller. 40% speed for normal use (100%) during gaming since I can only hear it a little over the headphones and the explosions anyway.
> 
> FX-4170 oc'ed to 4.909ghz - games reliably at 55c or less. Haven't run Prime95 yet. But it's stable for everything I use it for (youtube and gaming) pics of modded setup with reservoir added in my signature.


Got a pic of the res setup? Interested to see what it looks like.


----------



## devilpriest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> You should be setting them up to push thru the radiator and out of the case. I think you might be getting confused about push/pull and intake/exhaust. Intake or exhaust is into or out of the case. Push/pull is pushing air thru or pulling it thru the radiator. If you mount the radiator from inside to the top of the case the mount the fans under it pushing air thru the radiator. i am not sure from your posts exactly what you have tried.


Sorry for my misleading... I have them set on top of the radiator in a pull setting. I can't mount them under the radiator at the moment because there''s no room (the fans would hit the ram and the 4 pin CPU power connector). But tomorrow I will be getting some 88 CFM 120mm Fans and I will mod my case in such a way that I will be able to mount the radiator outside (on top of the case) so I can put 2 fans under it and 2 above, in push-pull. I see if I'll get some improvements then.


----------



## js593

Emergency Question - Does anyone know the fitting size for the H100? Im tearing mine apart tonight and need to know the size of the fittings so i can get some tubing from home depot.

thanks boys.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilpriest*
> 
> Sorry for my misleading... I have them set on top of the radiator in a pull setting. I can't mount them under the radiator at the moment because there''s no room (the fans would hit the ram and the 4 pin CPU power connector). But tomorrow I will be getting some 88 CFM 120mm Fans and I will mod my case in such a way that I will be able to mount the radiator outside (on top of the case) so I can put 2 fans under it and 2 above, in push-pull. I see if I'll get some improvements then.


Ok I see now, sorry I assumed you had a case that would mount them either way. My fault. I thought you would be able to just swap radiator on top and fans on bottom.


----------



## baconbitz44

Picked up my corsair H50 for 50$ at Fry's after looking through this thread. Best money I have spent in a long time! I'm overclocked to 4ghz at under 50C and couldn't be more satisfied, can't wait to take it higher


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellywolf996*
> 
> since I installed the h80i my north bridge temps have gone up 10c and I can smell a weird plastic melting/warming up smell.
> could any one shine some light on this or have a solution to it.


When you remove your air cooling, you also remove some splashover moving air that used to hit the rest of your board. Now, in place of that all you have is the water block/pump. Some main board manufacturers actually mention this for people who move to water cooling, and some boards actually provide special little blower fans to help keep the chipset cool if the user changes to water cooling for the cpu.



You can see one in the picture above, mounted to the chipset heatsink right above the top video card. If you find a little fan to mount in there, or manage to get one of your other fans to send a little more airflow in the direction of the chipset, you'll likely see the temp go down some. (that's an old build).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> Got a pic of the res setup? Interested to see what it looks like.


Just click the link in his sig.

Just a reminder to peeps that there's an edit button so they don't have to double post.


----------



## Nastroglide

I have never agreed with the "intake" approach. I installed my first H50 this way and was over heating my RAM b/c it was pushing all this hot air on it...

I set up my fans in the whole systems to accomadate an exhaust set up and it worked great.

Corsair only recommends what will make their product work best (like everyone), and when it makes something else fail they will say, "that's not our component so its not our responsibility."

Gotta use some common sense here and ask yourself, is dumping all the cpu heat inside of my case a good idea??? Of course it isn't a good idea. Set up your fans so you have plenty of intake into your case, then exhaust works just fine. Corsair can only tell you what to do that will make their product perform best based on general info gathered by them.


----------



## ez12a

Running it as an intake has never been a problem.

In fact I think with these coolers you should be taking advantage of the fact that you can directly intake cold air from the outside.

I think this is even more preferable when you have a non reference GPU cooler dumping hot air into the case.


----------



## js593

Add another to the RMA charts. Going to dig out my box to send to Corsair. Did you guys need to do anything special to get them to RMA with the new H100i? I have this funny feeling they will be sending me another H100.


----------



## jellywolf996

My h80i with sp120's, about 3c warmer than the stock fans but much quieter. 


I know i put one fan on facing the wrong way, I corrected it but am too lazy to take another picture. The pump makes a weird electric buzzing sound, is this normal?

Does anyone know if it is bad to run one fan slower than?


----------



## js593

Warmer then stock fan? I have a feeling its not seated correctly. It should be alot cooler. Whats your temps like?

Both fans should always run at the same speed on a push pull.

no the pump shouldnt make noise, gently tap the lines and the pump and hope that its just air bubbles.


----------



## jellywolf996

I mean yh sp120 performane edition run hotter than the stock sp120L fans.


----------



## DUpgrade

H80i stock fans: 2700 RPM, 77 CFM, 37.68 dBA, 4mm/H20 - would be the best but also quite loud at 100%
SP120 performance: 2350 RPM, 62.74 CFM, 35 dBA, 3.1 mm/H20 - running full 12v 100%, not as good as stock but more quiet
SP120 quiet: 1450 RPM, 37.85 CFM, 23 dBA, 1.29 mm/H20 - quiet fans but higher temps

My source on this was the Corsair website so most values probably have a +/- in real world testing. I have never tried my stock fans on the H80i and went straight with the SP120 quiet fans. I'll have to test some performance difference with the 7v adapter that comes with them. I suppose the performance edition also has a 7v adapter that would reduce the speed and some noise at full 12v, temps would probably go up a bit too though.


----------



## mothow

Ok im in.I have the H80i installed on my main rig.I also have a brand new H80 from froom an rma.I bought the H80i while i was waiting on the H80 because im so impatient..lol I had to update the firmware beause i was getting the horrible fan noise but now its fine.The NIB h80 is sitting in the box atm because im not sure if i want to install it on my backup PC(Q6600 B3 / Asus 750i P5N-D / 2x2GB's DDR2 1000 / PNY 9800GTX+) or just sell it.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mothow*
> 
> Ok im in.I have the H80i installed on my main rig.I also have a brand new H80 from froom an rma.I bought the H80i while i was waiting on the H80 because im so impatient..lol I had to update the firmware beause i was getting the horrible fan noise but now its fine.The NIB h80 is sitting in the box atm because im not sure if i want to install it on my backup PC(Q6600 B3 / Asus 750i P5N-D / 2x2GB's DDR2 1000 / PNY 9800GTX+) or just sell it.


i would sell it. something as low as an H50 would cool that fine, if you really wanted to stick with corsair. Otherwise a $30 dollar 212+ will be more than enough.


----------



## jellywolf996

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mothow*
> 
> Ok im in.I have the H80i installed on my main rig.I also have a brand new H80 from froom an rma.I bought the H80i while i was waiting on the H80 because im so impatient..lol I had to update the firmware beause i was getting the horrible fan noise but now its fine.The NIB h80 is sitting in the box atm because im not sure if i want to install it on my backup PC(Q6600 B3 / Asus 750i P5N-D / 2x2GB's DDR2 1000 / PNY 9800GTX+) or just sell it.


or you could do the nvidia gpu cooling mod with it.


----------



## Mattyd893

So...

Firstly let me introduce myself.. I've been around OCN for a while now both giving and receiving advice on all things geeky! I'm a geek by trade and have a keen interest in hardware and performace.

Before I went full custom loop I had a H80 and a H100 cooler, I questioned if I could get the H100 in my CM 690 case. After realising a commonly asked question about the H series coolers and case compatibility I started a thread.

By request of some OCN users, me and the OP of this thread (overclocker55) are joining forces slightly, my thread lists lots of cases and coolers and links to people threads (preferably on OCN) relating to these coolers, showing where and preferably detailing how it is mounted in their case.

If you get a chance, have a look and if you can; send me a link to your build over at the compatibility thread, it can be anywhere, but I'd *prefer* it to be posted here at the official club or in my thread.

I only need the URL of the post containing your thread, just right click the post number at the top right of the box and select "copy link address" or "copy shortcut" or whatever terminology your browser uses.

If you catch someone asking about case compatibility then refer to the list.

Thanks in advance.

*H SERIES CASE COMPATIBILITY*


----------



## OverClocker55

Thanks Matty!


----------



## SeD669

Hey just got the Corsair H80i so I would like to join


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeD669*
> 
> Hey just got the Corsair H80i so I would like to join
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Got to page 1 and add yourself!


----------



## SeD669

Yeah I filled out that form already. what now?


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeD669*
> 
> Yeah I filled out that form already. what now?


Your in and done














Welcome to the club.


----------



## SeD669

Cheers mate!


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeD669*
> 
> Cheers mate!










Thanks For Checking Out The Thread!


----------



## SeD669

Hey sorry I have one more question... should I have applied that thermal paste stuff when installing the cooling lol???
coz i didnt get any with the H80i kit









EDIT: all good just applied some after realising the temps were going up


----------



## OverClocker55

Sorry guys. I'm gone. Someone will get OP. Have a good one! Prosper and Flourish OCN


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nastroglide*
> 
> I have never agreed with the "intake" approach. I installed my first H50 this way and was over heating my RAM b/c it was pushing all this hot air on it...
> 
> I set up my fans in the whole systems to accomadate an exhaust set up and it worked great.
> 
> Corsair only recommends what will make their product work best (like everyone), and when it makes something else fail they will say, "that's not our component so its not our responsibility."
> 
> Gotta use some common sense here and ask yourself, is dumping all the cpu heat inside of my case a good idea??? Of course it isn't a good idea. Set up your fans so you have plenty of intake into your case, then exhaust works just fine. Corsair can only tell you what to do that will make their product perform best based on general info gathered by them.


You can claim Corsair only says this to get the best performance from their cooler....and you'd be right. Lots of people set up water coolers as intake, and not just for closed loop coolers. The fact is that this extra heat only makes the RAM and chipset a few degrees warmer. People in this thread have tested this. By the way, if you had a stock cooler in your system, where does it push the heat? Yeah, that's right, inside the case.

Personally, I also use exhaust, because I would prefer keeping my video cards a couple of degrees cooler and it keeps the dust out of my rad. Even if I didn't, it wouldn't make my memory "overheat".
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeD669*
> 
> Hey sorry I have one more question... should I have applied that thermal paste stuff when installing the cooling lol???
> coz i didnt get any with the H80i kit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: all good just applied some after realising the temps were going up


Uh, the TIM is pre-applied to the block. You shouldn't add more. Not only that, but the Dow Corning TIM Corsair uses is excellent TIM.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Sorry guys. I'm gone. Someone will get OP. Have a good one! Prosper and Flourish OCN


You're gone? What's up bud?


----------



## OverClocker55

Tired of OCN. Funny world and I'm not cut out for it.


----------



## mavisky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> Got a pic of the res setup? Interested to see what it looks like.


----------



## SeD669

Quote:


> Uh, the TIM is pre-applied to the block. You shouldn't add more. Not only that, but the Dow Corning TIM Corsair uses is excellent TIM.


After I removed the original heatsink off the CPU there wasn't much lube left... and even though the system ran a lot cooler, after about ah hour the CPU started heating up like A LOT... over the original 45 or so degrees the stock fan was providing lol. But its all good I got some thermal paste and re-applied it. now its a constant 27


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Tired of OCN. Funny world and I'm not cut out for it.


What exactly happened? Seems very strange to me. Perhaps go on a hiatus for awhile and come back, start again?


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeD669*
> 
> After I removed the original heatsink off the CPU there wasn't much lube left... and even though the system ran a lot cooler, after about ah hour the CPU started heating up like A LOT... over the original 45 or so degrees the stock fan was providing lol. But its all good I got some thermal paste and re-applied it. now its a constant 27


Any time you remove a CPU cooler you should always clean off the copper block and CPU heat shield with isopropyl alcohol (higher % better, evaporates quicker though) so when you reapply it will have a good spread without air bubbles. Certain kinds of TIM like Artic Silver 5 also require about 200 hours of curing time before your temps settle into what they'll be.


----------



## jellywolf996

Hi I installed my h80i on a i7 950 on stock clocks and it idles around 39c with an ambient of 25c with mx-4. Is this high for a push pull on quite as it only beats my old cooler by a few c and my old cooler cost £15.


----------



## SeD669

Quote:


> Hi I installed my h80i on a i7 950 on stock clocks and it idles around 39c with an ambient of 25c with mx-4. Is this high for a push pull on quite as it only beats my old cooler by a few c and my old cooler cost £15.


WOW your stock cooler sounds like it was a good one







I have the same results with my H80i + 950


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattyd893*
> 
> So...
> 
> Firstly let me introduce myself.. I've been around OCN for a while now both giving and receiving advice on all things geeky! I'm a geek by trade and have a keen interest in hardware and performace.
> 
> By request of some OCN users, me and the OP of this thread (overclocker55) are joining forces slightly, my thread lists lots of cases and coolers and links to people threads (preferably on OCN) relating to these coolers, showing where and preferably detailing how it is mounted in their case.
> 
> *H SERIES CASE COMPATIBILITY*


Thanks Matty and Noah (OC55) for this AWESOME Contribution/Collaboration:thumb:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Sorry guys. I'm gone. Someone will get OP. Have a good one! Prosper and Flourish OCN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tired of OCN. Funny world and I'm not cut out for it.


*WHAT?* ....
Your contributions have been *MANY!*
Already sent you a PM


----------



## OverClocker55

Thanks TomcatV for the nice PM


----------



## ralph9994

got quick question about the H100i.

I bricked my Corsair H100i so I am unable to use corsair link. Or even to attach the fans to the H100i since it will turn up the fan speed to 100%
Can I also use a fancotnroller instead of RMA the h100i back to corsair?


----------



## edelfurioso

whats the model of the ram cooler?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Tired of OCN. Funny world and I'm not cut out for it.


But you've done an awesome job here. I don't think you give yourself enough credit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ralph9994*
> 
> got quick question about the H100i.
> 
> I bricked my Corsair H100i so I am unable to use corsair link. Or even to attach the fans to the H100i since it will turn up the fan speed to 100%
> Can I also use a fancotnroller instead of RMA the h100i back to corsair?


Of course you can use a fan controller. If your main board will control 3-pin fans you could just plug them into your main board. If not, any decent fan controller will do the job.


----------



## RickyFromVegas

Just bought H50 for $25 at Fry's. From what I hear, these are inadequate, but seeing as the prices are so low, I thought I might give it a chance.
Coming from amd 965 and cm 212+, I don't really know if it's worth keeping or not since I'm using it as an intake and leaves only top 200mm fan as the sole exhaust.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickyFromVegas*
> 
> Just bought H50 for $25 at Fry's. From what I hear, these are inadequate, but seeing as the prices are so low, I thought I might give it a chance.
> Coming from amd 965 and cm 212+, I don't really know if it's worth keeping or not since I'm using it as an intake and leaves only top 200mm fan as the sole exhaust.


It's hard to say if it will do better than a hyper 212. You could try it but I doubt temps are going to be any better.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Tired of OCN. Funny world and I'm not cut out for it.


Have a good one sir, it's been a pleasure reading your posts. You had much to contribute and we would welcome you back. Thanks.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickyFromVegas*
> 
> Just bought H50 for $25 at Fry's. From what I hear, these are inadequate, but seeing as the prices are so low, I thought I might give it a chance.
> Coming from amd 965 and cm 212+, I don't really know if it's worth keeping or not since I'm using it as an intake and leaves only top 200mm fan as the sole exhaust.


Welcome RickyFV .... looks like your having a bit of buyers remorse







... But $25 for an H50 is a steel! Like DUpgrade said I doubt you'll see a huge improvement in your temps over the 212+ depending on your Overclock/case ventilation/ambients etc etc .... But you could turn the H50 around and set it up as an exhaust if your worried about interior heat dump and case temps ...

Even better yet use your H50 as a VGA cooler ... I know alot of guys would jump on a $25 H50 just for that purpose alone!







... See *HERE*









PS ... please fill in your system specs (see my sig) so we can give you more detailed/consise advise


----------



## edelfurioso

i have a 212 evo and i went to the store and i saw the h60 for like $40 (not the last one that came out the one before) and i still have time to return my 212 evo

what u guys think?


----------



## RickyFromVegas

I don't think there are much difference between h50 and h60, and with push/pull config, the performance is just about the same as my 212+.

I don't know, I only tested it as an intake, so exhaust might give me different numbers, but I don't think making it as an exhaust will cool it down any more than it did as an intake. If anything, cooling performance of CPU would be worse off, but better overall airflow?


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edelfurioso*
> 
> i have a 212 evo and i went to the store and i saw the h60 for like $40 (not the last one that came out the one before) and i still have time to return my 212 evo
> 
> what u guys think?


Put the H60 on your GPU


----------



## edelfurioso

i all ready went and return the 212 evo and install the h60 !!!


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edelfurioso*
> 
> i all ready went and return the 212 evo and install the h60 !!!


Good choice IMO, I hate having an air cooler taking up the whole inside of my PC


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *edelfurioso*
> 
> i all ready went and return the 212 evo and install the h60 !!!
> 
> 
> 
> Good choice IMO, I hate having an air cooler taking up the whole inside of my PC
Click to expand...

I don't think the Hyper 212 is nearly as bad as Noctua DH14 in terms of size of an air cooler though. Some of those get really massive in size.


----------



## Devildog83

True, like the V6 & V8's they just fill the case up and seems to me might hurt the cooling of the rest of the components. Maybe it's just me but I like my case clean and open with lot's of air flow.


----------



## js593

Just a heads up for anyone going to RMA your H100, they do NOT have the H100i in stock until friday. They told me to call back so they can process them accordingly and send out mine so i can replace it with my H100.


----------



## Snuckie7

Hey guys a quick question, but is this rattling noise normal on my H70 CORE?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otsG0mh9XYw


----------



## js593

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snuckie7*
> 
> Hey guys a quick question, but is this rattling noise normal on my H70 CORE?
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otsG0mh9XYw


Are you talking about the core of the Rad, or the pump? If its the pump, its gotta be RMA'd/. If its the Rad, chances are the fan is clicking on something, or there's some sort of obstruction.


----------



## InvalidUserID

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snuckie7*
> 
> Hey guys a quick question, but is this rattling noise normal on my H70 CORE?
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otsG0mh9XYw


I had that noise with my old H50. It would go away as soon as I unplugged it from the fan header and then would usually not come back after plugging it back in.

Never affected temps so I just ignored it and dealt with it when it happened.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edelfurioso*
> 
> i have a 212 evo and i went to the store and i saw the h60 for like $40 (not the last one that came out the one before) and i still have time to return my 212 evo
> 
> what u guys think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is an excellent find. I doubt it will be a huge improvement over your Evo though. Still, it's a great cooler.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snuckie7*
> 
> Hey guys a quick question, but is this rattling noise normal on my H70 CORE?
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otsG0mh9XYw


I ran your video but I couldn't hear anything. I had an H70, which I believe used the same pump, and it didn't rattle. Try taking the assembly off and shaking it up a little to get the air out of the pump.

My H50 in my spare computer is quite loud and can be heard when the computer warms up. I really need to check and see if the warranty is long enough for me to return it for RMA. I've had it for a couple of years and it's rattled the whole time.


----------



## Snuckie7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> Are you talking about the core of the Rad, or the pump? If its the pump, its gotta be RMA'd/. If its the Rad, chances are the fan is clicking on something, or there's some sort of obstruction.


I'm pretty sure it's the pump. Should I definitely RMA?


----------



## Nvidia-Brownies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snuckie7*
> 
> I'm pretty sure it's the pump. Should I definitely RMA?


Pump. RMA now. Radiator well make sure the fins are all intact and not bent and the fan isn't hitting anything.







Good Luck


----------



## js593

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snuckie7*
> 
> I'm pretty sure it's the pump. Should I definitely RMA?


Yessir. RMA that stuff faster then a pimp getting his money. Once that pump goes, you'll experience some really bad stuff.


----------



## Snuckie7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nvidia-Brownies*
> 
> Pump. RMA now. Radiator well make sure the fins are all intact and not bent and the fan isn't hitting anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good Luck


I have a fan shroud between the fan and the rad so it's definitely not that. I guess I should probably submit an RMA.


----------



## Nvidia-Brownies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snuckie7*
> 
> I have a fan shroud between the fan and the rad so it's definitely not that. I guess I should probably submit an RMA.


Yes do that


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> My H50 in my spare computer is quite loud and can be heard when the computer warms up. I really need to check and see if the warranty is long enough for me to return it for RMA. I've had it for a couple of years and it's rattled the whole time.


You should get that H50 looked at if under warranty. The only sound my H50 makes is a low electrical buzzing sound (pump-like I guess?). No rattles on my H50.


----------



## jellywolf996

when you do a push pull do both fans have to be high static pressure or could you have a static pressure push and a high airflow pull.
thanks


----------



## Snuckie7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> You should get that H50 looked at if under warranty. The only sound my H50 makes is a low electrical buzzing sound (pump-like I guess?). No rattles on my H50.


Yea mine used to just make a buzzing noise but now it clicks too.


----------



## Nvidia-Brownies

I'm thinking of getting a H100i. Can the cpu block led change colors?


----------



## SeD669

Quote:


> I'm thinking of getting a H100i. Can the cpu block led change colors?


It should... my H80i does so you's think the H100i would too


----------



## kokpa

Hi guys, i have problem with h80 and just installed noctuas nf-f12 pwm conected to fan controller on h80. Temps are good, noise is good vs. stock fans, but im not impressed eith them. I think they are vibrating and it's realy anoying. I thought they will be quiter but its okey you cant have silence and overclocked system.

But vibrating that really anoying. I dont know what to do, they have that vibrate pad on them but they still vibrate. That wasnt happening with stock fans.

Any thoughts?


----------



## Mackem

I have a H100i in my Phantom 410 with 2 SP120 Quiet Editions pushing air out of the case. I overclocked my 2500K to 4.5GHz with a 1.275 VCore and the temps in Prime95 are around 64-65 degrees on the hottest core. Is this good?

Also, some of my rad fins are bent, nothing is catching on them but a fair few are bent. Should I fix this? If so, how?

Corsair Link says my SP120s are spinning at 1300RPM at full speed but I thought they went up to 1450RPM? Is this because I have them plugged into the Phantom 410's fan controller?


----------



## js593

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellywolf996*
> 
> when you do a push pull do both fans have to be high static pressure or could you have a static pressure push and a high airflow pull.
> thanks


ALl 4 fans should be the same, to give the same airflow on the push and pull side. I guess you COULD go with high pressure, and high alirflow on the out side, but personally i would put the same on all sides.


----------



## Mattyd893

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mackem*
> 
> I have a H100i in my Phantom 410 with 2 SP120 Quiet Editions pushing air out of the case. I overclocked my 2500K to 4.5GHz with a 1.275 VCore and the temps in Prime95 are around 64-65 degrees on the hottest core. Is this good?
> 
> Also, some of my rad fins are bent, nothing is catching on them but a fair few are bent. Should I fix this? If so, how?
> 
> Corsair Link says my SP120s are spinning at 1300RPM at full speed but I thought they went up to 1450RPM? Is this because I have them plugged into the Phantom 410's fan controller?


Temps are good for that voltage and OC.

I'd leave the fins as they are, as long as it isn't too many bent ones it will make minimal difference.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mackem*
> 
> I have a H100i in my Phantom 410 with 2 SP120 Quiet Editions pushing air out of the case. I overclocked my 2500K to 4.5GHz with a 1.275 VCore and the temps in Prime95 are around 64-65 degrees on the hottest core. Is this good?
> 
> Also, some of my rad fins are bent, nothing is catching on them but a fair few are bent. Should I fix this? If so, how?
> 
> Corsair Link says my SP120s are spinning at 1300RPM at full speed but I thought they went up to 1450RPM? Is this because I have them plugged into the Phantom 410's fan controller?


are you using the quiet editions with the H100i? fan control is not supported for 3rd party fans or Corsair Retail fans, so you're out of luck there. They're working on updating this.

Fix the bent fins with a toothpick. the fins bend like paper so you have to be careful going about this.

but the temps look good.


----------



## Mackem

Yes, I am using the Quiet Editions with the H100i. Would there be much difference temperature wise if I put the stock fans back on? I would be willing to do that if it would improve the temperatures although it would be quite awkward to change fans with everything installed (Any tips on changing fans without pulling the PC apart?







)


----------



## ez12a

nah dont bother. Not worth the extra noise if you like the Quiet editions.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snuckie7*
> 
> I'm pretty sure it's the pump. Should I definitely RMA?


Have you tried shaking it? Many people have solved that problem by shaking. If there's air in the pump it will be noisy. If you RMA it, and there's air in the new pump it could make the same noise. If it still makes the noise after shaking, then RMA it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> You should get that H50 looked at if under warranty. The only sound my H50 makes is a low electrical buzzing sound (pump-like I guess?). No rattles on my H50.


I agree. Unfortunately, the computer is only used for a couple of days every few weeks, and so it gets left on the back burner. I don't even have to RMA it as the store I bought it from (Memory Express) will RMA it for me. All I have to do is remove it and take it in.

Anyone have a round toit I could borrow? It seems I never get around to it.

Next time I get it to make the noise I'll record it and take the unit out for return. Glad I kept the box and packing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellywolf996*
> 
> when you do a push pull do both fans have to be high static pressure or could you have a static pressure push and a high airflow pull.
> thanks


Corsair George says if you have two mismatched fans, use the one with the highest static pressure for the push fan. Also, make sure the fans are at least in the same ballpark for RPM (I would say within 1000 RPM). Frankly, if you're using an H100, you're not going to see more than a degree or two difference using push/pull anyway (if that).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nvidia-Brownies*
> 
> I'm thinking of getting a H100i. Can the cpu block led change colors?


You're supposed to be able to program the block colour using the Corsair Link software, but it seems some people have been having trouble with the software. Perhaps you should go to Corsair's site and check their forum before deciding.

One thing I have to say. I really like Corsair products, god knows I've bought enough of them, but even though at first I liked them, I'm not much of a fan of the big rubber hoses on the new Corsair water coolers any more. I prefer the older hoses. From what I hear, the inside diameter of the barbs in the rad hasn't changed, so personally I don't see the point of the big fat rubber hoses. I haven't checked the barb size myself, so I'm only going by what other people have said. Over the last week, I have been looking at quite a few builds using the H80i and H100i, and I think the hoses look out of place. Just my opinion of course. I do like the new blocks though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kokpa*
> 
> Hi guys, i have problem with h80 and just installed noctuas nf-f12 pwm conected to fan controller on h80. Temps are good, noise is good vs. stock fans, but im not impressed eith them. I think they are vibrating and it's realy anoying. I thought they will be quiter but its okey you cant have silence and overclocked system.
> 
> But vibrating that really anoying. I dont know what to do, they have that vibrate pad on them but they still vibrate. That wasnt happening with stock fans.
> 
> Any thoughts?


Re: Vibrate Pad.

You mean the new fans come with an anti vibration pad that goes between the radiator and the fans? If so, it's hard to say what could solve your problem. Normally I would suggest a rubber washer, but your vibrate pads should basically be the same thing. Does the vibration noise go away if you push on the rad a little? Maybe rubber washers on the rad between the rad and the case?

If you're convinced the fans are a problem, could you narrow it to one fan or do you think both are vibrating? You could try one stock and one Noctua and see if just one fan is defective.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mackem*
> 
> I have a H100i in my Phantom 410 with 2 SP120 Quiet Editions pushing air out of the case. I overclocked my 2500K to 4.5GHz with a 1.275 VCore and the temps in Prime95 are around 64-65 degrees on the hottest core. Is this good?
> 
> Also, some of my rad fins are bent, nothing is catching on them but a fair few are bent. Should I fix this? If so, how?
> 
> Corsair Link says my SP120s are spinning at 1300RPM at full speed but I thought they went up to 1450RPM? Is this because I have them plugged into the Phantom 410's fan controller?


I have a 2500K and using Intel Burn Test, running at 4.3GHz, my system will hit about 72c after an hour of running. Your temps are excellent.
How can the Corsair link software identify how fast your fans are running if you're using your case fan controller? Wouldn't you rather use the Link software so you can control the CPU fans automatically, and use your case controller for case fans?

As for your rad fins, where are they bent? If it's where the screws mount, then don't worry about it. If it's more than that, you could unbend them by sticking a tubular tool into the fins and pushing them from the opposite side. The fins don't carry water, just the pipes do. I would suggest using a plastic tool so you don't scratch or damage anything. Perhaps a refill from a Bic pen? However, unless a lot of fins are bent, I bet it's not having any effect on your most excellent temps. Don't bother putting the stock fans back on unless you want to use the block to control them. As others have already mentioned, your temps are great. Don't forget the system would be quieter when not under load if the fans were temperature controlled, so it really depends on what you want from your cooler. If you're happy right now, then by all means leave it the way it is.

Lastly, many fan controllers limit the fan voltage to 11V instead of 12V. If your case fan controller does this, that may be why you're not reaching maximum RPM.


----------



## kokpa

You mean the new fans come with an anti vibration pad that goes between the radiator and the fans? If so, it's hard to say what could solve your problem. Normally I would suggest a rubber washer, but your vibrate pads should basically be the same thing. Does the vibration noise go away if you push on the rad a little? Maybe rubber washers on the rad between the rad and the case?

If you're convinced the fans are a problem, could you narrow it to one fan or do you think both are vibrating? You could try one stock and one Noctua and see if just one fan is defective.

yees noctua nf-f12-pwm come with vibration pad. Now i tested it out of the case, and maybe it could be on fan broke, but im not 100% sure, I think that h80 fan controller is faulty again, this is my second unit. Sometimes fan just doesnt spin when i atached it to fan controller, just weird, but i see that there is many problems with fan controller what i have googled out. Stock fans doesnt give that noise like noctuas but they are way louder. Noise is like 5400rpm hdd would spin up and go down, up down. I cant make a video beacuse it cant be heard on video.


----------



## gian84

Hi guys! H100i owner here.
Just want to know if my temps are normal or are are these too high:
4.5Ghz @ 1.32v - P95 : 80+C
Gaming : 70+C

4.6Ghz @ 1.42v - P95 : 90+C
Gaming : 80+C

My ambient temp is around 27-30C

Is there something wrong with how I seated my cooler? When I installed the backplate for the CPU, it was kind of loose, but when I installed and tightened the cpu block it was ok and secure.
Or is it just that I'm giving my cpu such high voltages and because of my ambient temp?
Thanks!


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gian84*
> 
> Hi guys! H100i owner here.
> Just want to know if my temps are normal or are are these too high:
> 4.5Ghz @ 1.32v - P95 : 80+C
> Gaming : 70+C
> 
> 4.6Ghz @ 1.42v - P95 : 90+C
> Gaming : 80+C
> 
> My ambient temp is around 27-30C
> 
> Is there something wrong with how I seated my cooler? When I installed the backplate for the CPU, it was kind of loose, but when I installed and tightened the cpu block it was ok and secure.
> Or is it just that I'm giving my cpu such high voltages and because of my ambient temp?
> Thanks!


IMO, I dont't think anything is wrong with your mounting? (see below) ... With those semi-sweltering ambients (85F) your on the high side of normal for one of the classic Ivy Bridge chips that just plain run hot because of the poor QC of the IHS mounting ... good article *HERE*. If you understand the ramifications of voiding your warranty, you could signifigantly lower your temps by reseating the IHS *HERE* ...

Just for reference most of us w/Sandy Bridge are running 10c-15c cooler with the same conditions above ... One thing you may try is to crank your mounting screws an extra 1/4 turn in an "X" pattern to make sure your making full contact, BUT be careful to not overtighten ... alot of people have found the typical "finger-tighten" method gets better results doing this with real strong fingers or? judiciously applied plyers









Bottom line ... I think your OK with your 4.5GHz for gaming but if your "folding" or doing lots of video transcoding, I'd lower my OC to achieve mid/low 70c load temps for industrial use


----------



## Fonne

Is there any review of pictures out, that shows the H100i inside ? - Like this Swiftech:





Cant find any review that has taking it apart ...


----------



## Mackem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Have you tried shaking it? Many people have solved that problem by shaking. If there's air in the pump it will be noisy. If you RMA it, and there's air in the new pump it could make the same noise. If it still makes the noise after shaking, then RMA it.
> I agree. Unfortunately, the computer is only used for a couple of days every few weeks, and so it gets left on the back burner. I don't even have to RMA it as the store I bought it from (Memory Express) will RMA it for me. All I have to do is remove it and take it in.
> 
> Anyone have a round toit I could borrow? It seems I never get around to it.
> 
> Next time I get it to make the noise I'll record it and take the unit out for return. Glad I kept the box and packing.
> Corsair George says if you have two mismatched fans, use the one with the highest static pressure for the push fan. Also, make sure the fans are at least in the same ballpark for RPM (I would say within 1000 RPM). Frankly, if you're using an H100, you're not going to see more than a degree or two difference using push/pull anyway (if that).
> You're supposed to be able to program the block colour using the Corsair Link software, but it seems some people have been having trouble with the software. Perhaps you should go to Corsair's site and check their forum before deciding.
> 
> One thing I have to say. I really like Corsair products, god knows I've bought enough of them, but even though at first I liked them, I'm not much of a fan of the big rubber hoses on the new Corsair water coolers any more. I prefer the older hoses. From what I hear, the inside diameter of the barbs in the rad hasn't changed, so personally I don't see the point of the big fat rubber hoses. I haven't checked the barb size myself, so I'm only going by what other people have said. Over the last week, I have been looking at quite a few builds using the H80i and H100i, and I think the hoses look out of place. Just my opinion of course. I do like the new blocks though.
> Re: Vibrate Pad.
> 
> You mean the new fans come with an anti vibration pad that goes between the radiator and the fans? If so, it's hard to say what could solve your problem. Normally I would suggest a rubber washer, but your vibrate pads should basically be the same thing. Does the vibration noise go away if you push on the rad a little? Maybe rubber washers on the rad between the rad and the case?
> 
> If you're convinced the fans are a problem, could you narrow it to one fan or do you think both are vibrating? You could try one stock and one Noctua and see if just one fan is defective.
> I have a 2500K and using Intel Burn Test, running at 4.3GHz, my system will hit about 72c after an hour of running. Your temps are excellent.
> How can the Corsair link software identify how fast your fans are running if you're using your case fan controller? Wouldn't you rather use the Link software so you can control the CPU fans automatically, and use your case controller for case fans?
> 
> As for your rad fins, where are they bent? If it's where the screws mount, then don't worry about it. If it's more than that, you could unbend them by sticking a tubular tool into the fins and pushing them from the opposite side. The fins don't carry water, just the pipes do. I would suggest using a plastic tool so you don't scratch or damage anything. Perhaps a refill from a Bic pen? However, unless a lot of fins are bent, I bet it's not having any effect on your most excellent temps. Don't bother putting the stock fans back on unless you want to use the block to control them. As others have already mentioned, your temps are great. Don't forget the system would be quieter when not under load if the fans were temperature controlled, so it really depends on what you want from your cooler. If you're happy right now, then by all means leave it the way it is.
> 
> Lastly, many fan controllers limit the fan voltage to 11V instead of 12V. If your case fan controller does this, that may be why you're not reaching maximum RPM.


Never mind, I forgot I had the two rad fans plugged into the CPU Fan header as guided.


----------



## veloceracing

Added myself.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/shaunraney/8404322742/
Corsair H80i Detail by veloceracing, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/shaunraney/8404323472/
Side Shot Open by veloceracing, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/shaunraney/8403231599/
Top Shot by veloceracing, on Flickr


----------



## dmanstasiu

What case is that Velo ?


----------



## Erick Silver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *veloceracing*
> 
> Added myself.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/shaunraney/8404322742/
> Corsair H80i Detail by veloceracing, on Flickr
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/shaunraney/8404323472/
> Side Shot Open by veloceracing, on Flickr
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/shaunraney/8403231599/
> Top Shot by veloceracing, on Flickr


Nice build!


----------



## PedroC1999

Sorry to ask but i might be getting a H60, can someone give me a personal review or something?

Sent From My Rooted Galaxy Ace II


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedroc1999*
> 
> Sorry to ask but i might be getting a H60, can someone give me a personal review or something?
> 
> Sent From My Rooted Galaxy Ace II


It's good? Go look up reviews


----------



## veloceracing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> What case is that Velo ?


It's a Mountain Mods H2Go with a large window top and an H-Window Side.

Most recent build pics are here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/shaunraney/sets/72157632583025792/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Nice build!


Thanks!


----------



## Erick Silver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedroc1999*
> 
> Sorry to ask but i might be getting a H60, can someone give me a personal review or something?
> 
> Sent From My Rooted Galaxy Ace II


I have an H60. Its a decent enough cooler. Its warm in my comupter room right now and I have my GTX560SE running at 875Mhz at 100% and fan profile at 100%. Idle temps are about 35*c on my X6 1090t overclocked to 3.8Ghz. 100% load temps reach about 55*-58*C. Not too bad.

I found the best way to mount the rad is with the hoses at the bottom.

Fans should be set to intake and you can get a few more degrees of cooling with a 2 fan setup. If you have a top fan mount on your case I would recommend having a 120mm or 200mm fan placed up top set to exhaust. This way you have the hot air from the cooler immediately exhausted out the top of the case. If you have a bottom front or bottom fan mount have the fan/fans there set to intake to aid in the forcing of the hot air out the top. Yes you can set it up any way you like. But hot air has a NATURAL disposotion to rise. Why spend the energy to force it where you want when you can let physics do some of the work for you?


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> I have an H60. Its a decent enough cooler. Its warm in my comupter room right now and I have my GTX560SE running at 875Mhz at 100% and fan profile at 100%. Idle temps are about 35*c on my X6 1090t overclocked to 3.8Ghz. 100% load temps reach about 55*-58*C. Not too bad.
> 
> I found the best way to mount the rad is with the hoses at the bottom.
> 
> Fans should be set to intake and you can get a few more degrees of cooling with a 2 fan setup. If you have a top fan mount on your case I would recommend having a 120mm or 200mm fan placed up top set to exhaust. This way you have the hot air from the cooler immediately exhausted out the top of the case. If you have a bottom front or bottom fan mount have the fan/fans there set to intake to aid in the forcing of the hot air out the top. Yes you can set it up any way you like. But hot air has a NATURAL disposotion to rise. Why spend the energy to force it where you want when you can let physics do some of the work for you?


You make a lot of sense. I like the cat!!


----------



## Erick Silver

My Avatar? That was my little OCN Kitty. His name was Julius Caesar. He would sit on top of my old Dell CRT while I surfed the OCN site. He died a year ago this coming Fathers Day of Kidney Failure. He was my little computer buddy.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> My Avatar? That was my little OCN Kitty. His name was Julius Caesar. He would sit on top of my old Dell CRT while I surfed the OCN site. He died a year ago this coming Fathers Day of Kidney Failure. He was my little computer buddy.


]

I am sorry to here that. --- Here is my computer buddy. Misty sleeps on my satelite reciever because it's warm and it humms. Loves to walk on the keyboard.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kokpa*
> 
> You mean the new fans come with an anti vibration pad that goes between the radiator and the fans? If so, it's hard to say what could solve your problem. Normally I would suggest a rubber washer, but your vibrate pads should basically be the same thing. Does the vibration noise go away if you push on the rad a little? Maybe rubber washers on the rad between the rad and the case?
> 
> If you're convinced the fans are a problem, could you narrow it to one fan or do you think both are vibrating? You could try one stock and one Noctua and see if just one fan is defective.
> 
> yees noctua nf-f12-pwm come with vibration pad. Now i tested it out of the case, and maybe it could be on fan broke, but im not 100% sure, I think that h80 fan controller is faulty again, this is my second unit. Sometimes fan just doesnt spin when i atached it to fan controller, just weird, but i see that there is many problems with fan controller what i have googled out. Stock fans doesnt give that noise like noctuas but they are way louder. Noise is like 5400rpm hdd would spin up and go down, up down. I cant make a video beacuse it cant be heard on video.


There is another option, I don't know if you have considered it. The Noctua fans are PWM, no? You could plug them into your motherboard. You can pick up a PWM splitter, and connect both fans to your CPU_FAN header.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I have an H60. Its a decent enough cooler. Its warm in my comupter room right now and I have my GTX560SE running at 875Mhz at 100% and fan profile at 100%. Idle temps are about 35*c on my X6 1090t overclocked to 3.8Ghz. 100% load temps reach about 55*-58*C. Not too bad.
> 
> I found the best way to mount the rad is with the hoses at the bottom.
> 
> Fans should be set to intake and you can get a few more degrees of cooling with a 2 fan setup. If you have a top fan mount on your case I would recommend having a 120mm or 200mm fan placed up top set to exhaust. This way you have the hot air from the cooler immediately exhausted out the top of the case. If you have a bottom front or bottom fan mount have the fan/fans there set to intake to aid in the forcing of the hot air out the top.
> 
> 
> Yes you can set it up any way you like. But hot air has a NATURAL disposotion to rise. Why spend the energy to force it where you want when you can let physics do some of the work for you?


That's actually not strictly applicable in this situation. The force causing warm air to rise in a small enclosed space like a computer case is very weak compared to the force exerted by case fans (use the Force Luke). You don't have to take it into account when designing for air flow with fans.

http://www.overclock.net/t/572373/official-corsair-obsidian-800d-700d-650d-550d-club/2510#post_12323113

See that last paragraph.


----------



## opforwarrior

see below


----------



## opforwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*


The second pic show air in your line.... the purpose of the resevior is to maintain a flooded condition in your system and allow air to escape entrainment... the resevior should be at the highpoint of your system or contain MORE fluid than shown.

I'm speaking from piping installations for plant engineerers. If you hear noise (grinding/rumbling)... it's cavitation from air in the system.


----------



## hakz

^ that's true sir, but we don't know if he's already finished filling the res up, and the rig hasn't been turned on yet


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opforwarrior*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The second pic show air in your line.... the purpose of the resevior is to maintain a flooded condition in your system and allow air to escape entrainment... the resevior should be at the highpoint of your system or contain MORE fluid than shown.
> 
> I'm speaking from piping installations for plant engineerers. If you hear noise (grinding/rumbling)... it's cavitation from air in the system.
Click to expand...

I don't think it's running that way, The top picture shows no air in the loop, I would assume they would bleed the loop before turning the system on in order to get the air out. I'd like to do a custom loop at some point but the Corsair CLC is a good starting point.


----------



## Erick Silver

It also looks like his case is a HAF XB. Which means if I am looking at it correctly his res is at the highest point possible in that particular case.


----------



## PedroC1999

Ok thanx, i will problably be running it with a 6300 and hopefully get 4.3-4.5 on it

Sent From My Rooted Galaxy Ace II


----------



## opforwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snuckie7*
> 
> Hey guys a quick question, but is this rattling noise normal on my H70 CORE?
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otsG0mh9XYw


You have a piping/installation issue, not a pump issue... thus the same sound with multiple new units.

You are creating a vacume upstream from your pumphead, lowering the pressure... boiling the water ... pulling entrained air from the water, collapsing the bubbles... causing implosions... all very bad.

My guess is you have the rad lower than the pump... have a kink in the lines, have the tubes on the rad in the top position, etc. Proper flow is the concern , not the orientation of the corsair logo. With proper orientation, air will rise to the top of the system (top of radiator) and be reabsorbed into the fluid... DO NOT SHAKE!.

http://cdn.overclock.net/3/35/352dc0a6_SDC15185.jpeg

Pic of my set up... if you look closely, you will see that people with problem setups, dont look like mine. Their radiator is inverted. Also note the corsair logo... it is not "right side up", but this was how it fit (with tubes unkinked). Kinks and angles sharper than 90 degrees cause reduction in flow (also, friction caused by molecules slaming into the wall of the pipe, generates additional heat) and contribute to low suction pressure at the pumphead (resulting in cavitation) and reduced pumplife from increased resistance to flow (ie. shaft seals seeing higher pump housing pressure). This is a balanced system. Don't feel bad ... the professionals build multi-million dollar installations, that don't work, either.

PUMPSCHOOL

Commercial pump parts tutorial
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QgsT1xuhu_k

Grundfos Pumps Cavitation - A lesson in cavitation. (disregard instructions on flowcontrol and monitoring, ours is a closed loop system)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QS39vFp3haQ

The sound of cavitation in a commercial pump
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Lbxtjfdat4

With a plastic plate at the impeller to see the formation of air bubbles.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0O5W2JrFhc4


----------



## opforwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> "I don't think ... I would assume".


Usually I tell people to stop talking right there... You know nothing and have added nothing, but confusion, to the disscussion.

When I troubleshoot pump applications (usually, on the phone)... I only speak with the operator/engineer... and I ask things in such a way as to not give him the anwsers he thinks I want to hear. And I ask the questions two different ways, to catch erroneous info and assumptions. ( ie 3+3=6 ... 6-3=3)

Factory engineers and QC are 99.99% accurate. In my 20 years experience, 95% of all premature failure, is operator error. Basic troubleshooting will solve most issues.

Looking at his pics again... he is discharging his pumpage into the lower rad port. With the open loop system he has (in a closed loop system the return flow from the radiator is both pressurized and rushing to fill a low pressure vacume created by the pumphead), he should be pumping to the upper port, so as not to be fighting gravity on the fluid already in the radiator. ( "x" psi discharge pressure + 17 psi gravity, or, "x" psi discharge pressure - 17 psi gravity .. is a net gain/loss of 2x gravity or, 34+/- psi) as the Corsair pump cannot be operating below 20 psi or above 100 psi ... a net difference of up to 34 psi is a big deal. (Higher pressure = shorter component life)

Think of it as standing on your head vs. your feet... your heart must overcome the additional pressure of more blood over your heart/head... your head fills with blood. Or, an obese person having more stress upon the heart, due to the higher pressures needed to pump the same volume of blood.

A closed loop system is more tolerant of sloshing fluids. This is why closed loop (self-contained, pressurised) systems are used on mobile equipment (e.g. hydraulic lube & control systems, fuel systems)... while open loop ( resevoir) systems are used in factories/plants. Both have benefits and drawbacks.

Does anyone know what the shaft seal on these various H units are? I would guess HIGH Pressure lip seals in rubber or teflon (rated 15-50 psi at the low pressure center of the impeller) ... or carbon/ceramic springloaded face seals (30-75 psi at the impeller).

Note: Pressure measured at the low pressure "eye" of the impeller is 30-50% of the pressure at volute housing discharge nozzle... as fluid is non-compressible, pressures spike when discharge is throttled or deadheadded, blowing seals. Seals requre pressure to effect a seal, at zero system pressure (powered off) the spring loaded lips or faces prevent low pressure fluid from escaping along the shaft. The spring on a face seal is designed to produce 17-21 psi to counteract atmospheric pressure at varing altitudes, which seeks to open a leak path. Pressure has a second wear factor, lip and face wear is increased, when overpressured, causing increased heat and accelerated wear. If pressure increases more, the fluid lubricating the lip/face can be boiled or squeezed out, causing instant failure including spotwelding/siezing the faces (hardfaces). Very high pressure pumps, have engineered seals which uses physics priciples to reduce face load through hydraulicly balancing the faceted anlges and area of the sealhead, creating a great opening force to counteract the internal pressure.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opforwarrior*
> 
> You are creating a vacume upstream from your pumphead, lowering the pressure... boiling the water ... pulling entrained air from the water, collapsing the bubbles... causing implosions... all very bad.


I've never heard air pockets being described in such an apocalyptic manner


----------



## opforwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> I've never heard air pockets being described in such an apocalyptic manner


Air pockets are pressurized air... this stuff is like anti-matter. The opposite of an explosion. IMPLOSION! It cannot happen under normal atmospheric conditions. It's like the 2nd part of nuke blast... after the hot expansion of gasses... it contracts... sucking in everthing in its path. A black hole.

Images of impellers attacked by cavitation
https://www.google.com/search?q=impeller+attacked+cavitation&hl=en&tbo=d&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=FXkBUeX4KoqWrAGAooCYDA&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAA&biw=1466&bih=1108


----------



## dmanstasiu

"What's wrong? In laymans' terms"

"Collapsing pressurized anti-matter collapsing causing upstream vacuums in your pump, implosions not possible under atmospheric conditions"

"How do I fix THAT?







"

"Move the res higher"

"Oh."


----------



## opforwarrior

If you don't hear a grinding.growling noise, you are fine. If you do... look to your radiator/pumphead orientation.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opforwarrior*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> You have a piping/installation issue, not a pump issue... thus the same sound with multiple new units.
> 
> You are creating a vacume upstream from your pumphead, lowering the pressure... boiling the water ... pulling entrained air from the water, collapsing the bubbles... causing implosions... all very bad.
> 
> My guess is you have the rad lower than the pump... have a kink in the lines, have the tubes on the rad in the top position, etc. Proper flow is the concern , not the orientation of the corsair logo. With proper orientation, air will rise to the top of the system (top of radiator) and be reabsorbed into the fluid... DO NOT SHAKE!.
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/3/35/352dc0a6_SDC15185.jpeg
> 
> Pic of my set up... if you look closely, you will see that people with problem setups, dont look like mine. Their radiator is inverted. Also note the corsair logo... it is not "right side up", but this was how it fit (with tubes unkinked). Kinks and angles sharper than 90 degrees cause reduction in flow (also, friction, generates additional heat) and contribute to low suction pressure at the pumphead (resulting in cavitation) and reduced pumplife from increased resistance to flow (ie. shaft seals seeing higher pump housing pressure). This is a balanced system. Don't feel bad ... the professionals build multi-million dollar installations, that don't work, either.
> 
> 
> 
> PUMPSCHOOL
> 
> Commercial pump parts tutorial
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QgsT1xuhu_k
> 
> Grundfos Pumps Cavitation - A lesson in cavitation. (disregard instructions on flowcontrol and monitoring, ours is a closed loop system)
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QS39vFp3haQ
> 
> The sound of cavitation in a commercial pump
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Lbxtjfdat4
> 
> With a plastic plate at the impeller to see the formation of air bubbles.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0O5W2JrFhc4
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *opforwarrior*
> 
> *Usually I tell people to stop talking right there... You know nothing and have added nothing, but confusion, to the disscussion.* *Classic! LoL*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> When I troubleshoot pump applications (usually, on the phone)... I only speak with the operator/engineer... and I ask things in such a way as to not give him the anwsers he thinks I want to hear. And I ask the questions two different ways, to catch erroneous info and assumptions. ( ie 3+3=6 ... 6-3=3)
> 
> Factory engineers and QC are 99.99% accurate. In my 20 years experience, 95% of all premature failure, is operator error.
> 
> Looking at his pics again... he is discharging his pumpage into the lower rad port. With the open loop system he has (in a closed loop system the return flow from the radiator is both pressurized and rushing to fill a low pressure vacume created by the pumphead), he should be pumping to the upper port, so as not to be fighting gravity on the fluid already in the radiator. ( "x" psi discharge pressure + 17 psi gravity, or, "x" psi discharge pressure - 17 psi gravity .. is a net gain/loss of 2x gravity or, 34+/- psi) as the Corsair pump cannot be operating below 20 psi or above 100 psi ... a net difference of up to 34 psi is a big deal. (Higher pressure = shorter component life)
> 
> Think of it as standing on your head vs. your feet... your heart must overcome the additional pressure of more blood over your heart/head... your head fills with blood. Or, an obese person having more stress upon the heart, due to the higher pressures needed to pump the same volume of blood.
> 
> Does anyone know what the shaft seal on these various H units are? I would guess HIGH Pressure lip seals in rubber or teflon (rated 15-50 psi at the low pressure center of the impeller) ... or carbon/ceramic springloaded face seals (30-75 psi at the impeller).
> 
> Note: Pressure measured at the low pressure "eye" of the impeller is 30-50% of the pressure at volute housing discharge nozzle... as fluid is non-compressible, pressures spike when discharge is throttled or deadheadded, blowing seals. Seals requre pressure to effect a seal, at zero system pressure (powered off) the spring loaded lips or faces prevent low pressure fluid from escaping along the shaft. The spring on a face seal is designed to produce 17-21 psi to counteract atmospheric pressure at varing altitudes, which seeks to open a leak path. Pressure has a second wear factor, lip and face wear is increased, when overpressured, causing increased heat and accelerated wear. If pressure increases more, the fluid lubricating the lip/face can be boiled or squeezed out, causing instant failure including spotwelding/siezing the faces (hardfaces). Very high pressure pumps, have engineered seals which uses physics priciples to reduce face load through hydraulicly balancing the faceted anlges and area of the sealhead, creating a great opening force to counteract the internal pressure.
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *opforwarrior*
> 
> Air pockets are pressurized air... *this stuff is like anti-matter*. The opposite of an explosion. IMPLOSION! It cannot happen under normal atmospheric conditions. It's like the 2nd part of nuke blast... after the hot expansion of gasses... it contracts... sucking in everthing in its path. A black hole.
> 
> impeller attacked cavitation
> https://www.google.com/search?q=impeller+attacked+cavitation&hl=en&tbo=d&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=FXkBUeX4KoqWrAGAooCYDA&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAA&biw=1466&bih=1108
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

This is friggin AWESOME ... I use to work in sales for Ingersoll Rand ... so I can appreciate your insights/knowledge! ... and Yes "touch of Humor"









You might find *THIS THREAD* interesting ... or more likely frustrating???









EDIT: Another +R for you ... I think I'm 2 for 2








Post your system specs? see my sig


----------



## js593

Opforwarrior,
What would you say about considering the use of a res on these H series pumps? I hear from some to stay away, i hear from others its fine.
I would like to know a professional opinion if the pump has enough pressure to withstand the back pressure of a res & extended lines.


----------



## opforwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> Opforwarrior,
> What would you say about considering the use of a res on these H series pumps? I hear from some to stay away, i hear from others its fine.
> I would like to know a professional opinion if the pump has enough pressure to withstand the back pressure of a res & extended lines.


Sorry , no idea. I just installed an H50 that's been sitting NIB on the windowsill for 2 yrs. This is my 1st trip to the watercooled rodeo.

The flow from the rad to the rez is high pressure to an atmospheric (low) pressure, and should add no stress to the system, providing the pump isn't having to push the fluid uphill from the radiator.


----------



## opforwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> This is friggin AWESOME ... I use to work in sales for Ingersoll Rand ... so I can appreciate your insights/knowledge! ... and Yes "touch of Humor"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You might find *THIS THREAD* interesting ... or more likely frustrating???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Another +R for you ... I think I'm 2 for 2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Post your system specs? see my sig


Thanks for the link to frustration ( I think?) ... Bearing noise is an interesting topic. Yes, a loose or malfunctioning bearing can rattle, but, on pumps, premature failure is caused by:

1) Leakage, past the seal, along the shaft rusting the bearing metals/ washing away lube.
2) Bent/deflecting shafts causing excessive runout, ruining the bearing race.
3) Excessive side loading of the pump impeller ( pressure too high, materials understrength, failure of thrust bearing, excessive tolerances etc.)
4) External forces

None of these is likely in the corsair setup. Cavitation is most likely culprit. Additionally, if it is an installation/piping issue... the factory engineers will be unable to duplicate your failure mode. Your RMA'd item will be QC'd and recertified.

The key here is the CLUE... most people who RMA end up having the same problem and RMA multiple units without success.

One bright spot, the (ABS?) plastic used in this pump has a high resistance to pitting due to implosion, much better than steel/bronze.

Current Build

Core i-5 3570K CPU
Intel DZ77GA-70K Extreme mobo
Corsair VengenceLP DDR3 1600 16GB kit (4x4GB) (CML16GX3M4A1600C9b) *certified w/mobo
H50 Cooler w/ x2 Couger Vortex HDB Fans (1200RPM , 60cfm, 1.73mmH2O, 17.7db) @ 100%
EVGA FTW GTX 660 ti Superclock 3GB w/ Backplate
Intel 520 120GB SATAIII SSD
Seagate 1TB SATAII HDD
Corsair TX850 PSU
Antec 902 Case w/ x2 Couger Vortex HDB Fans (1200RPM , 60cfm, 1.73mmH2O, 17.7db) @ 30%


----------



## Snuckie7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opforwarrior*
> 
> You have a piping/installation issue, not a pump issue... thus the same sound with multiple new units.
> 
> You are creating a vacume upstream from your pumphead, lowering the pressure... boiling the water ... pulling entrained air from the water, collapsing the bubbles... causing implosions... all very bad.
> 
> My guess is you have the rad lower than the pump... have a kink in the lines, have the tubes on the rad in the top position, etc. Proper flow is the concern , not the orientation of the corsair logo. With proper orientation, air will rise to the top of the system (top of radiator) and be reabsorbed into the fluid... DO NOT SHAKE!.
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/3/35/352dc0a6_SDC15185.jpeg
> 
> Pic of my set up... if you look closely, you will see that people with problem setups, dont look like mine. Their radiator is inverted. Also note the corsair logo... it is not "right side up", but this was how it fit (with tubes unkinked). Kinks and angles sharper than 90 degrees cause reduction in flow (also, friction, generates additional heat) and contribute to low suction pressure at the pumphead (resulting in cavitation) and reduced pumplife from increased resistance to flow (ie. shaft seals seeing higher pump housing pressure). This is a balanced system. Don't feel bad ... the professionals build multi-million dollar installations, that don't work, either.
> 
> PUMPSCHOOL
> 
> Commercial pump parts tutorial
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QgsT1xuhu_k
> 
> Grundfos Pumps Cavitation - A lesson in cavitation. (disregard instructions on flowcontrol and monitoring, ours is a closed loop system)
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QS39vFp3haQ
> 
> The sound of cavitation in a commercial pump
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Lbxtjfdat4
> 
> With a plastic plate at the impeller to see the formation of air bubbles.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0O5W2JrFhc4


Oh snap the tubes in my rad are indeed at the top. I will invert that right away.

Here's a pic of my setup before the inversion. Do you think the tubes turn too sharply where they meet the pump?


----------



## opforwarrior

The pic is upside down then?

If so, when you invert the radiator, you will have some more slack.... like mine, I rotated the pump head back 90 degrees so the logo is at the 9 o'clock position instead of upright at the 12 o'clock. This takes up the slack in a gentle arc without bends.

http://cdn.overclock.net/3/35/352dc0a6_SDC15185.jpeg (btw, this pic is prior to any cable management efforts)

It's less neat and pretty... the real reason some of you visually anal individuals are having problems. Bias and superstition cause most issues. Science isn't VOODOO.

I once had a Girlfriend who believed a car got better gas milage with a full tank. Although she was smarter than the avg woman and a national amatuer racing champ, she believed this because her brother once said you should keep the tank full. What he meant was, in Oregon, if you leave your tank on the empty side, the area of the interior of the fuel tank will collect condensation in proportion to the exposed area. The resulting water in your tank will get sucked into the engine (becasue your running on Empty all the time). Her full fuel tank (14 gal x 7.8lbs/gal) was like carting around an extra body all the time , resulting in a net loss of efficiency.

Bias and Assumption

On a side note, how many of you are aware that the same heat friction generated by bends over 90deg angle, in a water pipe... has the same effect on wiring? Tightly coiling powerlines can generate enough heat to cause the plastic insulation to catch fire. It increases resistance to electrical flow (and your powerbill). Did you know that tightly bundling data/powerlines will generate crosstalk and corrupt data, your network slowing under the burden of resent packets? Loose, ugly cables are the safest and transmit the cleanest signals. Balance this with your needs for airflow.

You have no sharp bends here but, you do have one line, taut without slack.... this CAN create a harmonic effect, like a stringed instrument, vibrating in sympathy to and amplifying sound in the fluid and flow of the pumpage pulse wave. This is a common symptom in the hanging of piping systems, both commercial and residential. Maybe you've heard noise in the pipes behind the wall when you turn the faucet on/off? Plumbers install anti-hammer devices to absorb/dampen the pulse wave. But they do little to handle the induced stresses of mis-hung pipes.


----------



## Snuckie7

Yea sorry about the pic. . . I couldn't figure out how to get the rotation to stick. It is indeed upside down though.


----------



## justanoldman

Hopefully this is the right place to ask this question. This is my first build and overclock, and I am old, so please forgive my ignorance.

As you can see from my rig I have a Corsair H100i cpu cooler.

From reading posts about it, I can see that there are people having some trouble with this particular model. I have mine working reasonably well, but I have done a number of things that I am not sure are right or the best way to go about it.

The stock fans that come with the H100i were too loud so I replaced them with two Noctua NF-P12 fans pulling air down. They only run at about 1300 rpm so the chip runs a touch hotter but I don't care because of how much quieter they are. Since these fans just seemed to be maxed out all the time with Corsair Link 2.2, and I don't change the LED color often, I started to wonder why I had it all installed.

I set the LED color I wanted, uninstalled Corsair Link, and plugged the two NF-P12 fans directly into the motherboard slots for cpu fan and cpu opt fan. Then I was able to remove the usb cord and fan leads from the H100i pump, and just have the SATA power line plugged in now.

I am not excited about my temps: 3770k, 1.29v, 4600mhz, Prime95 max 84c, gaming max 60c in a 75F (23.9c) room, but they seem livable for 247 use.

Much cleaner and simpler now, but is this the best way to go? Any suggestions would be much appreciated.


----------



## mavisky

That seems awfully warm. I still run my H80 with the stock 2500rpm fans which are some of the loudest in the world but since I have a headset on anyway i don't really mind. I'm only seeing a max of about 50c on a 125watt FX-4170 oc'ed to 4.9ghz at 1.52 volts while playing Arma II/Day Z but I set the fans to "screaming loud" settings that would probably make your ears bleed.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> 
> Hopefully this is the right place to ask this question. This is my first build and overclock, and I am old, so please forgive my ignorance.
> 
> As you can see from my rig I have a Corsair H100i cpu cooler.
> 
> From reading posts about it, I can see that there are people having some trouble with this particular model. I have mine working reasonably well, but I have done a number of things that I am not sure are right or the best way to go about it.
> 
> The stock fans that come with the H100i were too loud so I replaced them with two Noctua NF-P12 fans pulling air down. They only run at about 1300 rpm so the chip runs a touch hotter but I don't care because of how much quieter they are. Since these fans just seemed to be maxed out all the time with Corsair Link 2.2, and I don't change the LED color often, I started to wonder why I had it all installed.
> 
> I set the LED color I wanted, uninstalled Corsair Link, and plugged the two NF-P12 fans directly into the motherboard slots for cpu fan and cpu opt fan. Then I was able to remove the usb cord and fan leads from the H100i pump, and just have the SATA power line plugged in now.
> 
> I am not excited about my temps: 3770k, 1.29v, 4600mhz, Prime95 max 84c, gaming max 60c in a 75F (23.9c) room, but they seem livable for 247 use.
> 
> Much cleaner and simpler now, but is this the best way to go? Any suggestions would be much appreciated.[/quot
> 
> Very nice setup by the way. I run the Sp120's that came with it in push out the top with the software and the fans actually or not load at all, I have them set to balanced and they run at 1330 to 1340, under load they go up to 1500+ but it's not that loud. Why do yours run at full speed all of the time?, they shouldn't.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> That seems awfully warm. I still run my H80 with the stock 2500rpm fans which are some of the loudest in the world but since I have a headset on anyway i don't really mind. I'm only seeing a max of about 50c on a 125watt FX-4170 oc'ed to 4.9ghz at 1.52 volts while playing Arma II/Day Z but I set the fans to "screaming loud" settings that would probably make your ears bleed.


Why full speed, you should not need it.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> That seems awfully warm. I still run my H80 with the stock 2500rpm fans which are some of the loudest in the world but since I have a headset on anyway i don't really mind. I'm only seeing a max of about 50c on a 125watt FX-4170 oc'ed to 4.9ghz at 1.52 volts while playing Arma II/Day Z but I set the fans to "screaming loud" settings that would probably make your ears bleed.


His temps seem somewhat average to me. You're running an AMD CPU with half the total cores....
And AMD cpus generally run really cool on corsairs CLC coolers anyway


----------



## justanoldman

Devildog83,
My NF-P12 fans are plugged into the motherboard. The BIOS profile says "standard" and they run at about 1350 rpm all the time, which is max. I am not sure how to adjust that. I haven't looked into it since they seem quiet running at full speed.

General121,
Thanks for the response. I am reusing a 4 year old case, and it does not have any great cooling or airflow characteristics so I wouldn't expect my temps to be above average.


----------



## azra187

Hey all! I've been researching for the last month which Corsair CLC system to buy and have found a lot of conflicting information. I wanted to put this out there on the overclock.net, corsair, and ROG forums to see what the users, moderators, and (maybe if I'm lucky to get a response from Yellowbeard or Ramguy) the manufacturer have to say.

Here's my specs:

Intel Core i5 3570k
ASUS Maximus Gene V
eVGA 660 Signature2 OC edition
2x8gb G.Skill Ares 1600 RAM
Apevia QPack2 case
Ambient temps are around 21 degrees Celcius

I'm currently using the stock Intel fan and get temps of about 88 degrees Celsius when running Prime95. I have the processor overclocked to 4.2ghz with -0.01 offset voltage, which raises the temperature to about 91. Obviously that's way too high. For now, however, I'm ok to keep it overclocked at 4.2 as the processor doesn't usually go above 65 degrees when gaming. I would like to get it to 4.5ghz, but want to get a better cooler first.

I would like to get a CLC as my case can only fit a CPU fan up to 76 mm in height. I'll need to mod the case to fit the rad, which will be mounted on the outside of the case. I can't imagine that I'll be able to do anything other than an exhaust setup. There is a similar build below:

http://www.pctechadvice.com/gallery/computer-builds-spartacus/

You can kind of see in picture 16 the holes that will need to be cut. I also plan to cut out the plate covering the fan for extra airflow. I have an 80 mm fan in the front of the chassis pulling air into the case.
I'd prefer NOT to use corsair link for two reasons: 1.) I'd like to keep the number of cables in my case to a minimum, and 2.) it doesn't seem that stable yet.

But which fan to buy? Here are a couple examples of the conflicting information:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/6530/closing-the-loop-contained-liquidcoolers-from-corsair-and-nzxt-compared

Anandtech shows the H55 beating the H60 by about 3 degrees. They attribute this to a better waterblock:

"Unfortunately, part of the reason the H55 looks so good is because the H60 performs so poorly. The H60 runs $10 more than the H55 for an arguably better PWM-controlled fan and a somewhat lesser quality waterblock. In this corner of the market, there's really no legitimate reason to spend up on the H60 when the H55 performs as well or better for less."

http://www.hardocp.com/article/2012/12/03/new_corsair_h60_h55_cpu_liquid_coolers_review/1

Hard OCP shows the H60 beating the H55 by about 2-4 degrees when overclocked. They also attribute this to a better waterblock:

"It is able to best the original by about two degrees which is impressive considering it uses the same radiator and pump, so surely this points to a more efficient coldplate design."

Hard to decide which one! For the sake of argument, let's ignore cost. They are all pretty close to each other in price and $50 one way or another is not going to persuade me. I do care about noise level. I have come up with some questions that will help me decide:

1. Does the H55 or H60 have the better waterblock?
2. With a mild overclock (4.2-4.5), is a H55 or H60 enough to keep the temps below 50 degrees over ambient when running Prime95?
3. From the pics and reviews, the waterblock on the H60 seems much easier to install. Is that correct?
4. Are the H50 and H55 consistently ranked higher than any of the other coolers just because they are cheaper?
5. Is a 27mm radiator too thin to benefit from a push/pull configuration?
6. If a 27mm radiator does benefit from the push/pull, would it be enough to keep the temps below 50 degrees over ambient?
7. Can you run a H80i without CorsairLink?
8. Would a H90 with a 140>120mm adapter work (essentially acting as a shroud)?
9. Do the preliminary tests for the H90 show it works better than the H80i?

Side-issue - I have a 3-pin 120 mm case fan. I've noticed my RPM's are not consistent. Does that mean my motherboard is modulating the voltage? If so, is there really any advantage to PWM fans? Based on Anandtech's radiator fan review and the fact that they match my system, I'll most likely swap out any stock fans for the Enermax Magma fans - the ones on FrozenCPU are red and black.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/6391/120mm-radiator-fan-roundup-part-2-fan-harder/7

I really appreciate the information these forums contain. Hopefully this post will help others asking the same questions.

Thanks,
<----Azra----<<


----------



## DUpgrade

^ I don't think there are too many members on OCN using the Intel stock cooler trying to overclock. You also have to keep in mind Ivy runs hot and your case is very compact in it's design. I have a feeling if you want to go the water cooling route you'll have to mount the rad externally. There's no way to assure you that one cooler over the other is going to give you the temps you want. As far as fans go, whatever floats your budget.


----------



## Tohru Rokuno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> ^ I don't think there are too many members on OCN using the Intel stock cooler trying to overclock. You also have to keep in mind Ivy runs hot and your case is very compact in it's design. I have a feeling if you want to go the water cooling route you'll have to mount the rad externally. There's no way to assure you that one cooler over the other is going to give you the temps you want. As far as fans go, whatever floats your budget.


When I started overclocking I used the stock Intel cooler on my G6950 - 4.1GHz @80C









In reply to azra187:

I run the H70 and I'm very happy with it. It has a thicker radiator but a lower profile pump/waterblock. If you have to mount it externally anyways, might as well use a thicker radiator for better heat dissipation and more OC capabilities.


----------



## Devildog83

I would start with a different case, IMO you will not be able to improve your temps too much in the case. If you want a closed loop system the H100i is the best cooler but a case that fits it and can create a cool enviroment would be the best. There is a youtube video comparing the H100 to the H100i but the temps are only 3.5 to 4 degrees cooler with the H100i. The fans and hoses make the difference. The pump is way smaller and more efficient and the software rocks, at least it does for me. In the youtube video they used a 3930k I think and the temps were under 60c with a corsair vengeance c70 case. I have the same case with an FX chip and get alot lower temps but my CPU get's nowhere as hot as the i5 and i7 CPU's.

Video from you tube - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNEuSRc6xt8


----------



## pc-illiterate

but the swiftech h220 will be shipping in 5 weeks or less


----------



## opforwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azra187*
> 
> Here's my specs:
> 
> Intel Core i5 3570k
> Ambient temps are around 21 degrees Celcius
> 
> I'm currently using the stock Intel fan and get temps of about 88 degrees Celsius when running Prime95. I have the processor overclocked to 4.2ghz with -0.01 offset voltage, which raises the temperature to about 91. Obviously that's way too high. For now, however, I'm ok to keep it overclocked at 4.2 as the processor doesn't usually go above 65 degrees when gaming. I would like to get it to 4.5ghz, but want to get a better cooler first.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> ^ I don't think there are too many members on OCN using the Intel stock cooler trying to overclock. You also have to keep in mind Ivy runs hot and your case is very compact in it's design. I have a feeling if you want to go the water cooling route you'll have to mount the rad externally. There's no way to assure you that one cooler over the other is going to give you the temps you want. As far as fans go, whatever floats your budget.


I have
Intel Core i5 3570k
H50 Corsair cooler
GTX 660ti 3GB
Ambient temps 23 c

Idles @ 23c
Prime 95 @ 43c (no OC)
Prime 95 @ 47-53c (OC)

I keep seeing this "Ivy runs hot" anecdotes and, "h50 not good enough" ... just hogwash... careless spreading of misinformation, heresay, bias and elitism. The H50 will cool a 125w max tdp with no problem. The i5-3570k is rated 77w. ( If i'm understanding this right?)
I have decent silent fans (cougar votrex hdb) in a push pull intake ... that balance 60 cfm and 1.73 h20mm 17 db @ 1200rpm ... The radiator does NOT inhibit the airflow, you are all making too big a deal about fan brands.

The GREATEST difference in core temps was dependent upon min/max pump speed (a difference of 10c vs 3c for fan speed min/max). The motherboard/bios did not want to run the CPU header /pump at 100% by default (823 rpm vs. 1400 rpm) . The critical cooling is done by passing a volume of fluid over the coldplate... not air over the radiator.

I would imagine this, along with mounting variances, to be the cause of such widely reported user results (kinked lines, inverted radiators and mismounted pumpheads). Also, cavitation (grinding noise) reduces pump efficiency. Starving your pump causes cavitation. ... your milege may vary

As stated by others ... your case is your big issue. But listen not to the people who "imagine all that hot air blowing onto their components" my h50 blows ambient + 3c... less a 15mph windchill...it's 60 cfm of "cold" air cooling my board...

Air temp exiting my Antec 902 case is 1-2c over ambient(1 HDD drive). Compared to my poorly vented & air cooled c2d e6600 (6 HDD drives, GTX 260)... which has exhaust 10-20c over ambient. The smaller die size of both the CPU and GPU translate into lower heat profiles.


----------



## pc-illiterate

bs on about everything in your post.
cfm means almost nothing compared to static pressure for radiator fans. less than 2h20mm is laughable making it ridiculous that you claim an h50 cooling an overclocked 3570k to be doing a max of 53*C. that is a ridiculous lie.
yes a radiator inhibits the airflow. why do you think you need high static pressure fans for cooling ?
corsair and all its brethren pumps run 100% full speed always. the pump doesnt slow down, the fans do.
there isnt a coldplate on all-in-one coolers. they consists of a combination pump/block and a radiator. youre thinking of a chiller/tec. in any type of water cooling, air blowing over the radiator is doing the cooling.
if youre only blowing 3* over ambient from the exit side of that h50 radiator, your 3570k sure as hell isnt running 30* over ambient, unless of course youre overclocked up to the turbo and no further. some people with de-lidded 3570k and better than an old h50 are getting higher temps. furthermore, its impossible for you to be blowing 3*(lol) over ambient into the case and air exiting the case to be only 1* or even 2* over ambient.

maybe you should have read some posts in this thread from owners of a real 3570k.


----------



## azra187

@DUpgrade and Devildog83 - my case is compact, but that is the intent. I do plan to mount the drive externally.

@Tohru Rokuno - the H70 is a great suggestion. I wish they were updating the block and tubes. Anyone know if there will be an updated revision to the H70?

@opforwarrior - thanks for the reality check! As far as the fans go, the Enermax Magma is a happy balance between performance, sound, and looks (the red and black match the ASUS Gene very well). Any idea on what the min/max pump speeds are for the H55, H60, or H80i?

Thanks all for your feedback!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azra187*
> 
> @DUpgrade and Devildog83 - my case is compact, but that is the intent. I do plan to mount the drive externally.
> 
> @Tohru Rokuno - the H70 is a great suggestion. I wish they were updating the block and tubes. Anyone know if there will be an updated revision to the H70?
> 
> @opforwarrior - thanks for the reality check! As far as the fans go, the Enermax Magma is a happy balance between performance, sound, and looks (the red and black match the ASUS Gene very well). Any idea on what the min/max pump speeds are for the H55, H60, or H80i?
> 
> Thanks all for your feedback!


there is no min/max pump speeds. the pumps run 100% 100% of the time.


----------



## Erick Silver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> there is no min/max pump speeds. the pumps run 100% 100% of the time.


Why are you being so gun-ho on this? Relax man. And in actuallity YOU are wrong.

If you do not turn off the Speedstep/Fan throttling or whatever other name it goes by in the bios and have your pump plugged into the CPU Fan Header on your motherboard the pump will not run at !00% 100% of the time.
I had this happen to me and could not figure it out for about a day before I realized that I had not turn off the BIOS Fan Throttling settings. A small mistake that was easy to fix.


----------



## pc-illiterate

im not being 'gung-ho' about this. if the pump isnt running 100% 100% all of the time, youre doing it wrong, as you found out.
im not wrong, at all. follow instructions.
do you know how much coolant is in the corsair/asetek coolers ? not much. do you know how fast the coolant flows in those units? if isnt running 100% full time, it isnt cooling anything.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opforwarrior*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *azra187*
> 
> Here's my specs:
> 
> Intel Core i5 3570k
> Ambient temps are around 21 degrees Celcius
> 
> I'm currently using the stock Intel fan and get temps of about 88 degrees Celsius when running Prime95. I have the processor overclocked to 4.2ghz with -0.01 offset voltage, which raises the temperature to about 91. Obviously that's way too high. For now, however, I'm ok to keep it overclocked at 4.2 as the processor doesn't usually go above 65 degrees when gaming. I would like to get it to 4.5ghz, but want to get a better cooler first.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> ^ I don't think there are too many members on OCN using the Intel stock cooler trying to overclock. You also have to keep in mind Ivy runs hot and your case is very compact in it's design. I have a feeling if you want to go the water cooling route you'll have to mount the rad externally. There's no way to assure you that one cooler over the other is going to give you the temps you want. As far as fans go, whatever floats your budget.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have
> Intel Core i5 3570k
> H50 Corsair cooler
> GTX 660ti 3GB
> Ambient temps 23 c
> 
> Idles @ 23c
> Prime 95 @ 43c (no OC)
> Prime 95 @ 47-53c (OC)
> 
> I keep seeing this "Ivy runs hot" anecdotes and, "h50 not good enough" ... just hogwash... careless spreading of misinformation, heresay, bias and elitism. The H50 will cool a 125w max tdp with no problem. The i5-3570k is rated 77w. ( If i'm understanding this right?)
> I have decent silent fans (cougar votrex hdb) in a push pull intake ... that balance 60 cfm and 1.73 h20mm 17 db @ 1200rpm ... The radiator does NOT inhibit the airflow, you are all making too big a deal about fan brands.
> 
> The GREATEST difference in core temps was dependent upon min/max pump speed (a difference of 10c vs 3c for fan speed min/max). The motherboard/bios did not want to run the CPU header /pump at 100% by default (823 rpm vs. 1400 rpm) . The critical cooling is done by passing a volume of fluid over the coldplate... not air over the radiator.
> 
> I would imagine this, along with mounting variances, to be the cause of such widely reported user results (kinked lines, inverted radiators and mismounted pumpheads). Also, cavitation (grinding noise) reduces pump efficiency. Starving your pump causes cavitation. ... your milege may vary
> 
> As stated by others ... your case is your big issue. But listen not to the people who "imagine all that hot air blowing onto their components" my h50 blows ambient + 3c... less a 15mph windchill...it's 60 cfm of "cold" air cooling my board...
> 
> Air temp exiting my Antec 902 case is 1-2c over ambient(1 HDD drive). Compared to my poorly vented & air cooled c2d e6600 (6 HDD drives, GTX 260)... which has exhaust 10-20c over ambient. The smaller die size of both the CPU and GPU translate into lower heat profiles.
Click to expand...

The reason why we consider the H50 to not be an adequate form of cooling, is because we all overclock. That's the only reason. It cools your chip fine at stock clocks. But try pushing 1.5v+ through your Ivy chip, and see how badly it will throttle to prevent damage. The H50 cannot handle that heatload.

Also, when we say Ivy runs hot, we simply mean it in relation to the previous generation, Sandybridge. For the same voltage, Ivy will run a bit hotter.

I hope that cleared up those two issues for you


----------



## azra187

Totally agree that 1.5v+ needs bigger cooling. But I'm already getting 4.2 ghz at 1.16v. I'm pretty confident I'll be able to get to 4.5 with 1.2-1.25v. If that's my upper limit on overclocking, is the H55 or H60 enough or do I need the H80i?


----------



## EliteReplay

i didnt know about this thread


----------



## mjhammer

And now I have found it as well!! A large volume of posts over a large span of time. Interesting to see the growth of the forum over time.

Glad to partake folks, thanks for having me!

HammeR


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mjhammer*
> 
> And now I have found it as well!! A large volume of posts over a large span of time. Interesting to see the growth of the forum over time.
> 
> Glad to partake folks, thanks for having me!
> 
> HammeR


You can add your rig into your signature using the My Stuff dropdown menus in the edit mode. Makes it easier for members to reference your rig.


----------



## opforwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> bs on about everything in your post.
> cfm means almost nothing compared to static pressure for radiator fans. less than 2h20mm is laughable making it ridiculous that you claim an h50 cooling an overclocked 3570k to be doing a max of 53*C. that is a ridiculous lie.
> yes a radiator inhibits the airflow. why do you think you need high static pressure fans for cooling ?
> corsair and all its brethren pumps run 100% full speed always. the pump doesnt slow down, the fans do.
> there isnt a coldplate on all-in-one coolers. they consists of a combination pump/block and a radiator. youre thinking of a chiller/tec. in any type of water cooling, air blowing over the radiator is doing the cooling.
> if youre only blowing 3* over ambient from the exit side of that h50 radiator, your 3570k sure as hell isnt running 30* over ambient, unless of course youre overclocked up to the turbo and no further. some people with de-lidded 3570k and better than an old h50 are getting higher temps. furthermore, its impossible for you to be blowing 3*(lol) over ambient into the case and air exiting the case to be only 1* or even 2* over ambient.
> 
> maybe you should have read some posts in this thread from owners of a real 3570k.


"Inconceivable !!"


"pc-illiterate" ?, I find people who celebrate ignorance, usually have good reason.

All the stuff you "know" seems to be a real burden for you. I'd respond to each item individually... but, what a mess... noone would be able to tell which one of us was the "crazy".

I think your just mad cause i hit a nerve. You're the guy running all around... spreading fertilizer ... pissing in the pool.

Maybe i'm too old, but, I never understood the "balls" some of you turds grow when you think you're anonymous. I promise, you wouldn't be spouting off , If you were 3 feet in front of me. When you stand in front of an ADULT and call him a liar... be prepared to spit out teeth.

I have NO reason to lie.... why accuse me of lying when I can so easily prove it? You didn't think this through all the way... When I have time ... i'll make a vid for you to choke on...

I tremble in anticipation of your further responses.


----------



## jktmas

I am not able to throttle my pump speeds on my h80, it is physically impossible, the power to run the pump comes grin the molex, not the 3pin, in fact the pump won't start up if you don't have the molted plugged in, however it will if you don't have the the pin, the corsair h80 UN modified, well run the pump at 100% all day long, as it is supposed to


----------



## opforwarrior

Eureka!

A breakthrough at 3 am! MY 1st BSOD! Now i have a start point.

I found a reference in a MOBO review, to Intel's EXTREME TUNING UTILITY... allowing changes in windows and a providing a testing platform... It simplified the options down to just a few variables... the firmware bios was not easy to breakdown. After seeing how the voltage corresponded to oc and getting a handle on the proprotions ... The discriptors were different than you all have been using...

Here's where it gets interesting. In my 1st OC experiments, I was unable to go higher than 45w.

Looking back over the realtemp screen cap from 2 weeks ago... NOBODY noticed I was clocking 3.4ghz (? stock 3.8ghz!) when it was supposed to be oc'd to 4.5ghz (in bios firmware).



Intel's Extreme Tuning software allowed me realtime observing: The ATB (Additional Turbo Boost) was insufficient(?) to drive the OC and it was defaulting down to 3.4Ghz (x34). With proper ATB the OC worked. All other voltages scaled dynamicly automaticly.



I adjusted oc from stock 3.8ghz (x38) upward to 4.6ghz increasing ONLY the ADDITIONAL TURBO BOOST by a factor of 20mV at 0.1 ghz of OC(stable); 80mV at 0.6 ghz OC(stable); 101mV at 0.8ghz (unstable?).



Now pushing 70 watt avg ... temps avg in the mid 60's c.



I ran some stress tests for at least 10 min... prime 95 programm crashed after 2 hrs... but no BSOD... i'll play with the voltage some more. I tuned down to 4.4ghz and applied these voltages in firmware bios. Is CPU 1.32v normal? Additional Turbo Voltage is 78.125 mV . Intel suggested the values at this OC.

Current Build

Core i-5 3570K CPU
Intel Z77GA-70K Extreme mobo
Corsair VengenceLP DDR3 1600 16GB kit (4x4GB) (CML16GX3M4A1600C9b) *certified w/mobo
H50 Cooler w/ x2 Couger Vortex HDB Fans (1200RPM , 60cfm, 1.73mmH2O, 17.7db)
EVGA FTW GTX 660 ti Superclock 3GB w/ Backplate
Seagate 1TB sata II + Intel 520 120GB
Corsair TX850 PSU
Antec 902 Case

Proof

23c Ambient


Ram OC'd 4.6ghz Under Load


Intake OC'd 4.6ghz Under Load


Exhaust OC'd 4.6ghz Under Load


Top Fan OC'd 4.6ghz Under Load (idles at 26c)


For the Prime test I increased the top fan speed, to draw off the ram heat. And decreased the front HDD fans (30%) for noise control.
Additionally...The Vid Card fan was idling @ 30%... the PSU fan is not running(exhaust) at load, but, is passive cooling (reverse) into the case (@28c).


----------



## pc-illiterate

wow look at your temps. i told you they werent high enough to be overclocked. wait til you get stable. your temps are going to be too high to keep the overclock with that h50...


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> wow look at your temps. i told you they werent high enough to be overclocked. wait til you get stable. your temps are going to be too high to keep the overclock with that h50...


lol? His temps are fine.


----------



## veloceracing

What is wrong with his temps?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> 
> Hopefully this is the right place to ask this question. This is my first build and overclock, and I am old, so please forgive my ignorance.
> 
> As you can see from my rig I have a Corsair H100i cpu cooler.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> From reading posts about it, I can see that there are people having some trouble with this particular model. I have mine working reasonably well, but I have done a number of things that I am not sure are right or the best way to go about it.
> 
> The stock fans that come with the H100i were too loud so I replaced them with two Noctua NF-P12 fans pulling air down. They only run at about 1300 rpm so the chip runs a touch hotter but I don't care because of how much quieter they are. Since these fans just seemed to be maxed out all the time with Corsair Link 2.2, and I don't change the LED color often, I started to wonder why I had it all installed.
> 
> I set the LED color I wanted, uninstalled Corsair Link, and plugged the two NF-P12 fans directly into the motherboard slots for cpu fan and cpu opt fan. Then I was able to remove the usb cord and fan leads from the H100i pump, and just have the SATA power line plugged in now.
> 
> 
> 
> I am not excited about my temps: 3770k, 1.29v, 4600mhz, Prime95 max 84c, gaming max 60c in a 75F (23.9c) room, but they seem livable for 247 use.
> 
> Much cleaner and simpler now, but is this the best way to go? Any suggestions would be much appreciated.


Nice Build "Oldman"







... Yes your running hotter (appx +10c) then many other similar setups ...
See HERE [[email protected] 1.3v 74F/25c Ambients LinX Load 75c note: "open bench" setup] and this also reflects many other members results. 3 things come to mind ...

1) That was a heck of a case in it's day AND still is if properly setup. But at stock with only 2-120mm fans (front intake/ rear exhaust) You very well may have a case air circulation problem? With your pull/intake setup it's adding overall heat to your system. AND more important is that top grill (and filter?) restricting fresh air intake? Try it in a "push config, try removing the grill restriction, do a test with the side cover removed and the radiator unrestricted outside the case to eliminate/confirm it's an airflow problem ...

2)Try remounting (make sure to check even distribution of TIM). Try rotating the block 90 degrees to make sure your clearing mobo capacitors ... this has caught many experienced builders offguard as visually it looks OK, but uneven TIM distribution is a dead give away.

3) You may just have one of the poorer IHS consructed Ivy Bridge CPU's (see earlier posts) and/or one of the lesser overclocking potential cpu's ... it happens








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azra187*
> 
> Hey all! I've been researching for the last month which Corsair CLC system to buy and have found a lot of conflicting information. I wanted to put this out there on the overclock.net, corsair, and ROG forums to see what the users, moderators, and (maybe if I'm lucky to get a response from Yellowbeard or Ramguy) the manufacturer have to say.
> 
> Here's my specs:
> 
> Intel Core i5 3570k
> ASUS Maximus Gene V
> eVGA 660 Signature2 OC edition
> 2x8gb G.Skill Ares 1600 RAM
> *Apevia QPack2 case*
> Ambient temps are around 21 degrees Celcius
> 
> I'm currently using the stock Intel fan and get temps of about 88 degrees Celsius when running Prime95. I have the processor overclocked to 4.2ghz with -0.01 offset voltage, which raises the temperature to about 91. Obviously that's way too high. For now, however, I'm ok to keep it overclocked at 4.2 as the processor doesn't usually go above 65 degrees when gaming. I would like to get it to 4.5ghz, but want to get a better cooler first.
> 
> *Your Apevia case will always be a challenge with higher OC's and cooling, not to mention that stock 500w PSU will be the main suspect should BSOD's start to occur with even mid-range OC's especially in an overheated case! Sooo if a case/PSU upgrade isn't in the near future for more serious overclocking and your using this rig mainly for gaming you'd be fine with either the H55 or H60. Especially since you won't notice much of a difference in gaming with a 4.2 vs 4.5 OC! The 2nd gen H60 is a better unit, many are puzzled why Corsair didn't differentiat it from the original with a H60i or H65 designation. Something was wrong with Dustin's tests [HERE] that day as even the H100i tests were all out of whack and not consistent with his previous stellar reviews like [HERE]I'd go with the "HardOCP" review comparing the 2.
> 
> NOW if other upgrades are in your near future and you want to eliminate cooling as a restriction to higher overclocks, I'd go with the H80i (externally mounted in the back?) or I think it would look cool to mod an H100i into the right side panel in an exhaust config which would also help with the extremely poor case air circulation (note: reverse the rear 120mm from exhaust-->intake). The H100i will outperform the H80i "exponentially" as the demand/stress gets higher. What's the worst that could happen?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You get frustrated with the Apevia/500w PSU and upgrade with more serious overclocking in mind and your ready to go with the H100i ... ALTHOUGH since your not so concerned with $$$ ... I'd take a serious look at the Swiftech 220 that "pc-illiterate" linked for only $20 more ... the "Quality" and "expansion" potential is unmatched IMHO! More "Color" comments below
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> I would like to get a CLC as my case can only fit a CPU fan up to 76 mm in height. I'll need to mod the case to fit the rad, which will be mounted on the outside of the case. I can't imagine that I'll be able to do anything other than an exhaust setup. There is a similar build below:
> 
> http://www.pctechadvice.com/gallery/computer-builds-spartacus/
> 
> You can kind of see in picture 16 the holes that will need to be cut. I also plan to cut out the plate covering the fan for extra airflow. I have an 80 mm fan in the front of the chassis pulling air into the case.
> I'd prefer NOT to use corsair link for two reasons: 1.) I'd like to keep the number of cables in my case to a minimum, and 2.) it doesn't seem that stable yet.
> 
> But which fan to buy? Here are a couple examples of the conflicting information:
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/6530/closing-the-loop-contained-liquidcoolers-from-corsair-and-nzxt-compared
> 
> Anandtech shows the H55 beating the H60 by about 3 degrees. They attribute this to a better waterblock:
> 
> *Something is amiss with Dustin's review (see above), I also don't believe the H55 block is superior to the 2nd gen (2013) H60, that's a question for Corsair George?*
> 
> "Unfortunately, part of the reason the H55 looks so good is because the H60 performs so poorly. The H60 runs $10 more than the H55 for an arguably better PWM-controlled fan and a somewhat lesser quality waterblock. In this corner of the market, there's really no legitimate reason to spend up on the H60 when the H55 performs as well or better for less."
> 
> http://www.hardocp.com/article/2012/12/03/new_corsair_h60_h55_cpu_liquid_coolers_review/1
> 
> Hard OCP shows the H60 beating the H55 by about 2-4 degrees when overclocked. They also attribute this to a better waterblock:
> 
> "It is able to best the original by about two degrees which is impressive considering it uses the same radiator and pump, so surely this points to a more efficient coldplate design."
> 
> *I believe this makes more sense and is more Accurate!*
> 
> Hard to decide which one! For the sake of argument, let's ignore cost. They are all pretty close to each other in price and $50 one way or another is not going to persuade me. I do care about noise level. I have come up with some questions that will help me decide:
> 
> 1. Does the H55 or H60 have the better waterblock? *Agree w/HardOCP*
> 2. With a mild overclock (4.2-4.5), is a H55 or H60 enough to keep the temps below 50 degrees over ambient when running Prime95? *[email protected] / I doubt it @ 4.5GHz*
> 3. From the pics and reviews, the waterblock on the H60 seems much easier to install. Is that correct? *They are all pretty simple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 4. Are the H50 and H55 consistently ranked higher than any of the other coolers just because they are cheaper? *Define 'Ranking" /$$$ yes /performance NO WAY!*
> 5. Is a 27mm radiator too thin to benefit from a push/pull configuration? *Usually / depends on setup/case/fans/ambients/how high of an OC?*
> 6. If a 27mm radiator does benefit from the push/pull, would it be enough to keep the temps below 50 degrees over ambient? *NO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 7. Can you run a H80i without CorsairLink? *YES
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 8. Would a H90 with a 140>120mm adapter work (essentially acting as a shroud)? *Yes*
> 9. Do the preliminary tests for the H90 show it works better than the H80i? *Yes IMO 3-5c cooler and Quieter!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT if it costs as much as the Swiftech220 ($140) I'd mod/GO w/that!*
> 
> Side-issue - I have a 3-pin 120 mm case fan. I've noticed my RPM's are not consistent. Does that mean my motherboard is modulating the voltage?*How inconsistant? 50-100rpm? is OK* If so, is there really any advantage to PWM fans? *PWM fans are just more versatile for control / Depends on your mobo's bios features and how many fans you want to control / that's a pretty versatile mobo with good fan control features* Based on Anandtech's radiator fan review and the fact that they match my system, I'll most likely swap out any stock fans for the Enermax Magma fans - the ones on FrozenCPU are red and black.
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/6391/120mm-radiator-fan-roundup-part-2-fan-harder/7
> 
> *Seriously consider upgrading your case/PSU, I think you'll be much happier in the long run as your Overclocking skills expand, we didn't even discuss GPU OC's heat/stress which will show greater benefits in gaming than a cpu OC will
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> I really appreciate the information these forums contain. Hopefully this post will help others asking the same questions.
> 
> Thanks,
> <----Azra----<<


*COMMENTS IN "COLOR" (GREEN?) ABOVE*

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> but the swiftech h220 will be shipping in 5 weeks or less


Nice Link! This is a serious contender








"All copper/brass"







... Expandability, robust PWM Pump etc etc ... 








All at $140!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mjhammer*
> 
> And now I have found it as well!! A large volume of posts over a large span of time. Interesting to see the growth of the forum over time.
> 
> Glad to partake folks, thanks for having me!
> 
> HammeR


Welcome ... you jumped in at a pretty lively/spirited phase of this thread









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opforwarrior*
> 
> Eureka!
> 
> A breakthrough at 3 am! MY 1st BSOD! Now i have a start point. I found a reference in a MOBO review, to Intel's EXTREME TUNING UTILITY... allowing changes in windows and a testing platform... It simplified the options down to just a few variables... the firmware bios was not easy to breakdown. After seeing how the voltage corosponded to oc and getting a handle on the proprotions ... The discriptors were different than you all have been using...
> 
> Here's where it gets interesting. In my 1st OC experiments, I was unable to go higher than 45w.
> Now pushing 70 watt avg ... temps avg in the mid 60's c
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Looking back over the realtemp screen cap... nobody noticed i was clocking 3.4ghz when it was supposed to be oc'd (in bios firmware).
> 
> 
> 
> Intel's Extreme Tuning software allowed me realtime observing: The ATB (Additional Turbo Boost) was insufficient to drive the OC and it was defaulting down to 3.4Ghz (x34). With proper ATB the OC worked. All other voltages scalaed dynamicly automaticly.
> 
> 
> 
> I adjusted oc from stock 3.8ghz (x38) upward to 4.6ghz increasing ONLY the ADDITIONAL TURBO BOOST by a factor of 20+/- millivolts per .1 ghz of OC.
> 
> 
> 
> Now pushing 70 watt avg ... temps avg in the mid 60's c.
> 
> 
> 
> I ran some stress tests for at least 10 min... prime 95 programm crashed after 2 hrs... but no BSOD... i'll play with the voltage some more. I applied these voltages in firmware bios.
> 
> Current Build
> 
> Core i-5 3570K CPU
> Intel Z77GA-70K Extreme mobo
> Corsair VengenceLP DDR3 1600 16GB kit (4x4GB) (CML16GX3M4A1600C9b) *certified w/mobo
> H50 Cooler w/ x2 Couger Vortex HDB Fans (1200RPM , 60cfm, 1.73mmH2O, 17.7db)
> EVGA FTW GTX 660 ti Superclock 3GB w/ Backplate
> Seagate 1TB sata II + Intel 520 120GB (RST & READYBOOST Partitions)
> Corsair TX850 PSU
> Antec 902 Case
> 
> Proof
> 
> For the Prime test I increased the top fan speed, to draw off the ram heat.
> 
> 
> 23c ambiant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> wow look at your temps. i told you they werent high enough to be overclocked. wait til you get stable. your temps are going to be too high to keep the overclock with that h50...
Click to expand...

Eureka is Right







My apologies for not being "clearer?" earlier, my unfamiliararity with Intel's UEFI. But you have now discovered the point I was trying to make that your loads (45w) just didn't make sense with any overclock setting







Sometimes don't you just wish you could pick up the phone LoL








Now that your at 80w / 1.352v and 79c "core" load temps I'd say your H50 is performing right to "spec" ...
Try running IBT (Intel Burn Test) and you'll definately see the limits of the H50 many have echoed here before ... by the way you owe me a "cookie" (1st BSOD) ... LoL


----------



## opforwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Eureka is Right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My apologies for not being "clearer?" earlier, my unfamiliararity with Intel's UEFI. But you have now discovered the point I was trying to make that your loads (45w) just didn't make sense with any overclock setting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometimes don't you just wish you could pick up the phone LoL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that your at 80w / 1.352v and 79c "core" load temps I'd say your H50 is performing right to "spec" ...
> Try running IBT (Intel Burn Test) and you'll definately see the limits of the H50 many have echoed here before ... by the way you owe me a "cookie" (1st BSOD) ... LoL


Thanks for the advice TomcatV... i tried starting my own thread on OC the DZ77GA-70K Mobo ( http://www.overclock.net/t/1348079/z77ga-70k-i5-3570k-intel-visual-bios) ... it died a painless death. Look me up on steam, i'll give you my number and we can work the voltages out in 10 min.









=(eG)= OPFORWARRIOR

p.s. Cookie's in the mail!


----------



## justanoldman

TomcatV,
Thank you very much for the reply.
The case is definitely old but it didn't seem worth it to ditch it and buy another since it is built like a tank. I have tried with both side panel off and it didn't really make any difference. So I don't think it is a significant case of having the case causing higher temps (in case you were wondering about my case in this case).

In your link they had the h100i at 75c with the included fans running on high. I am getting 84c at most with two very quiet Nocuta fans running at one half the RPM of the stock fans. With that in mind, do you think it is worth the trouble to uninstall the pump, clean the grease off, reapply some Arctic Silver 5, then put the pump back?

I checked and the pump is not touching anything on the mobo so I think I am good there.


----------



## justanoldman

TomcatV,
Sorry for the second post, but I just read the link a little more closely this time. I saw that their graphs are for average temps not max core temp. That puts me at about 80c vs their 75c, and I know I lost several degrees when I switched fans. I have never really thought about my average temps, I just always look at the max of the hottest core. I am guessing with all things considered I am reasonably close to their numbers.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> lol? His temps are fine.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *veloceracing*
> 
> What is wrong with his temps?


you should both look at his other post where he rants on about 'nobody knows nothin' and what his temps were. look at my post right under it. look at his actually overclocked temps. now tell me why you both posted this question.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> I am not able to throttle my pump speeds on my h80, it is physically impossible, the power to run the pump comes grin the molex, not the 3pin, in fact the pump won't start up if you don't have the molted plugged in, however it will if you don't have the the pin, the corsair h80 UN modified, well run the pump at 100% all day long, as it is supposed to


Older Corsair coolers like the H70 use a fan connector to plug the pump into a fan header. You're supposed to set the fan header to run the pump at 100% all the time in BIOS. Some people mistakenly believe that the bump is supposed to be regulated when it's not. The pump runs at a consistent speed, the rad/fans cool the warm water

The newer coolers like the H80 and H100 plug into a molex, while only the tac signal plugs into the cpu fan header to prevent the BIOS from generating a CPU fan error, and allow monitoring. I'm not sure how the H80i and H100i work. Is the tac signal going into USB now or do you still plug it into the CPU_FAN header?


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Older Corsair coolers like the H70 use a fan connector to plug the pump into a fan header. You're supposed to set the fan header to run the pump at 100% all the time in BIOS. Some people mistakenly believe that the bump is supposed to be regulated when it's not. The pump runs at a consistent speed, the rad/fans cool the warm water
> 
> The newer coolers like the H80 and H100 plug into a molex, while only the tac signal plugs into the cpu fan header to prevent the BIOS from generating a CPU fan error, and allow monitoring. I'm not sure how the H80i and H100i work. Is the tac signal going into USB now or do you still plug it into the CPU_FAN header?


The H100i uses a sata power connector and has a 3 pin to the cpu power header plus a USB for the Corsair link. You can plug up to 4 fans directly to the pump which are monitored in the link software. Mine runs at 2200+ rpm all the time, I beleive the older ones like the H50 run at near 1400 rpm.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> I am not able to throttle my pump speeds on my h80, it is physically impossible, the power to run the pump comes grin the molex, not the 3pin, in fact the pump won't start up if you don't have the molted plugged in, however it will if you don't have the the pin, the corsair h80 UN modified, well run the pump at 100% all day long, as it is supposed to
> 
> 
> 
> Older Corsair coolers like the H70 use a fan connector to plug the pump into a fan header. You're supposed to set the fan header to run the pump at 100% all the time in BIOS. Some people mistakenly believe that the bump is supposed to be regulated when it's not. The pump runs at a consistent speed, the rad/fans cool the warm water
> 
> The newer coolers like the H80 and H100 plug into a molex, while only the tac signal plugs into the cpu fan header to prevent the BIOS from generating a CPU fan error, and allow monitoring. I'm not sure how the H80i and H100i work. Is the tac signal going into USB now or do you still plug it into the CPU_FAN header?
Click to expand...

Can't speak for the older units, only experience is with the latest model. The reason the pump on the H100i and H80i being "loud" or "grinding" was some power supplies can produce 12.3 on the +12v line causing them to run beyond what they're rated for, this issue has been fixed. I don't believe this particular pump could throttle like a fan does when you lower or increase the voltage, it's just on. With the H100i and H80i the connector for it primarily pulls power from a sata connector but there's also a 3pin you can plug into the CPU_FAN header on the mobo. This is so the system can boot and the pump has plenty of power. The fans can be plugged into the pump, or into the mobo headers, or molex/fan controller. The USB is just for the Corsair Link software itself, monitor the sensors, control the fans (if connected to the unit), and customize the LED.


----------



## azra187

Tomcat V,

Thanks for your detailed response! Sorry about not mentioning the power supply. I'm not a fan of any power supply that comes with a case. I purchased a Silverstone Tek Strider 650W 80+ Gold with the short cable kit - works like a charm to reduce the cabling! I don't anticipate any upgrades for a year or so. I may just go with the H60. This is my first time overclocking, and I'm just looking for a stable 24/7 overclock in the SFF case.

My 120 mm case fan's rpm varies from 1200-2200. I found the settings in the bios - Asus did build in some good fan control. I'll need to set it at manual/max when I connect the pump to it?

My video card is factory overclocked about 10% - from 980 MHz to 1072 MHz. I have 2x24" monitors that run 1920x1080. For now, my video card hits the 60 fps ceiling (v-sync) - at least for Starcraft 2 and League of Legends. I may look at getting the new asus 144 Hz G series for Christmas (24 or 27 depending on how the year goes). Then I could justify a new video card for my birthday in Feb next year.









I may go for a bigger case with my next build&#8230;we'll see how the H60 holds up. I'm looking forward to posting some before and after numbers. Thanks again for the feedback!


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> So half of my h100i broke.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would not recommend the h100i for purchase until Corsair can get the kinks worked out.


Blue led burned out on mine too :/

About a month ago I noticed I couldn't change it to white anymore. Shrugged it off since I could still set it to any other color.

Now after watching your video, I checked to see if there was any change in my unit. And sure enough the blue is gone, which is a bummer since most of my components are blue. I guess it's only a matter of time until the other colors fail...

I'm gonna probably RMA it soon. I guess we're just a few of the unlucky ones


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Blue led burned out on mine too :/
> 
> About a month ago I noticed I couldn't change it to white anymore. Shrugged it off since I could still set it to any other color.
> 
> Now after watching your video, I checked to see if there was any change in my unit. And sure enough the blue is gone, which is a bummer since most of my components are blue. I guess it's only a matter of time until the other colors fail...
> 
> I'm gonna probably RMA it soon. I guess we're just a few of the unlucky ones


I am actually not sure the LEDs on the h100i are dead. I thought for sure my red one died, I couldn't get it to work no matter what. Then I took some time to try a lot of different combinations in specific order and eventually "tricked" the red into coming on again. Then I left it there and unplugged the USB cord.

I talked to Corsair the other day, and they are aware of all these problems. They believe the upcoming software and firmware update will address them, and they are prepared to mail you out new fans if they are still noisy after the updates.

I don't think they have a choice but to be aggressive in fixing these issues, or the Swiftech h220 will put the h100i out to pasture.


----------



## opforwarrior

Corsair VengenceLP DDR3 1600 16GB kit (4x4GB) (CML16GX3M4A1600C9b)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opforwarrior*
> 
> The ram is reporting as 0.74-0.75 volts in Intel Desktop Utilities. Bios specs are asking for 1.5v. I troubleshot the RAM in pairs both syncronous and asyncronous modes and swapped , looking for a bad one. I changed oc speed from 1333 to 1600 and back again, used automatic and XMP profiles... no change in voltage. I did update the bios when i installed the OS, which required a CMOS purge by removing the battery to get it to reboot after the bios update. Can anyone give me more insight into this ram voltage issue. Google is of no help, searching for undervoltage and underclocking only gives advice on intentional downclocking... not unintentional. Searching for an arbitrary voltage like 0.75v doenst find searchstrings for alternate undervoltages like 0.76v. I have a support ticket in with Corsair RAMguy. Maybe you guys can save me days on the phone talking to intel. Has passed Memtest86 v4.2 . [ Doing more research I realised the "LP" designator on the RAM is "low power".. but it should be 1.35v ... or is 0.75 v normal? Is the intel software giving me a bad reading? ... why does the bios report 1.5v instead of 1.35v LP?]


Correcting more bad info... RAM is LP ( Low Profile) not LP ( Low Power) .

1.5v is correct voltage ... how much trouble has this been causing me I wonder. Intel software reads at 50% actual voltage.

@ 1.35v


@ 1.5v


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opforwarrior*
> 
> Thanks for the advice TomcatV... i tried starting my own thread on OC the DZ77GA-70K Mobo ( http://www.overclock.net/t/1348079/z77ga-70k-i5-3570k-intel-visual-bios) ... it died a painless death. Look me up on steam, i'll give you my number and we can work the voltages out in 10 min.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> =(eG)= OPFORWARRIOR
> p.s. Cookie's in the mail!


No prob ... don't worry about your bios misreading your ram voltage ... but to find a real solution for that you'll have to contact Intel CS direct, and make sure to include a screenies ... I will try and take a look at your thread today ... mondays are kinda busy ...

EDIT: Wow that thread did die a quick death







... I'd bump it, Keep pushing for anothr members Z77GA-70K or GA-50K PROFILE ... Two cables is sharp, he's been around along time, I think I remember him from way back in my G3D days?
ALSO completely fill in your system specs (see my sig link) the more experienced guys will take you more seriously ... I know I know it's just the way it works ... Keep reading/re-reading the OC guides I linked earlier ...

example: (Your Post) I'm guessing here (vCore pre-sets) cause of the unfamiliarity with the Intel bios ... they all do it a little different even within bios updates ... did you find the "manual" (user controlled) setting for the vCore?
@ stock Ghz/stock Vcore/ Stock Multiplier
@4ghz/ "x" Vcore/ "y" Multiplier ... *1.242v / 40x multiplier ???*
@4.5ghz/ "x" Vcore/ "y" Multiplier ... *1.340v / 45x multiplier ???*

Note: I bet you could signifigantly lower these voltages if they are manually set









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> TomcatV,
> Thank you very much for the reply.
> The case is definitely old but it didn't seem worth it to ditch it and buy another since it is built like a tank. I have tried with both side panel off and it didn't really make any difference. So I don't think it is a significant case of having the case causing higher temps (in case you were wondering about my case in this case).
> 
> In your link they had the h100i at 75c with the included fans running on high. I am getting 84c at most with two very quiet Nocuta fans running at one half the RPM of the stock fans. With that in mind, do you think it is worth the trouble to uninstall the pump, clean the grease off, reapply some Arctic Silver 5, then put the pump back?
> 
> I checked and the pump is not touching anything on the mobo so I think I am good there.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> TomcatV,
> Sorry for the second post, but I just read the link a little more closely this time. I saw that their graphs are for average temps not max core temp. That puts me at about 80c vs their 75c, and I know I lost several degrees when I switched fans. I have never really thought about my average temps, I just always look at the max of the hottest core. I am guessing with all things considered I am reasonably close to their numbers.
Click to expand...

Just in _*case*_, I was wondering about your _*case*_, in *case* you were wondering LoL







It would be very hard to ditch one of the finest *"Crafted"* cases of all time!







, but if your handy with a dremmel you could mod some more fans in there and also possibly improve your intake (or exhaust?) up top ... I still think you'd see a slight improvement (1c-3c?) with your fans reversed and in a "Push" position giving the possible restrictions from your top (case) intake/vent/filter? making it fairly hard for lower SP/rpm fans to funtion 100% in a "Pull" config ...
BUT overall I think your good-to-go if your not folding 24/7 or Transcoding Video on a regular/commercial basis








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azra187*
> 
> Tomcat V,
> 
> Thanks for your detailed response! Sorry about not mentioning the power supply. I'm not a fan of any power supply that comes with a case. I purchased a Silverstone Tek Strider 650W 80+ Gold with the short cable kit - works like a charm to reduce the cabling! I don't anticipate any upgrades for a year or so. I may just go with the H60. This is my first time overclocking, and I'm just looking for a stable 24/7 overclock in the SFF case.
> 
> My 120 mm case fan's rpm varies from 1200-2200. I found the settings in the bios - Asus did build in some good fan control. I'll need to set it at manual/max when I connect the pump to it?
> 
> My video card is factory overclocked about 10% - from 980 MHz to 1072 MHz. I have 2x24" monitors that run 1920x1080. For now, my video card hits the 60 fps ceiling (v-sync) - at least for Starcraft 2 and League of Legends. I may look at getting the new asus 144 Hz G series for Christmas (24 or 27 depending on how the year goes). Then I could justify a new video card for my birthday in Feb next year.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may go for a bigger case with my next build&#8230;we'll see how the H60 holds up. I'm looking forward to posting some before and after numbers. Thanks again for the feedback!


No problem, your welcome ... Very nice choice on a relacement PSU, you will NOT regret it







You can also see why I'm a "stickler" for people posting their system specs (see sig) ... I like to look at every component for hopefully? giving better advise







... I think you.ll be very happy with your H60 purchase as it will mod/conceal nicely at the back of the case, and as long as your just gaming it will serve you well even with moderate OC's of 4.5GHz


----------



## Redwoodz

Thought I'd share this with the group.Grabbed a refurb H60 from from Fry's for $39.










results




temps with 1.7v at 4.6GHz were around 36c.


----------



## justanoldman

TomcatV,
Thanks for the helpful posts.
+rep


----------



## Am3Y

Guys can I use this http://www.primeabgb.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=5025&category_id=333&manufacturer_id=121&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1
To clean my h100 rad ?
See hw dusty it has bcom...









If not suggest any better method to make it as new..


----------



## EliteReplay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Am3Y*
> 
> Guys can I use this http://www.primeabgb.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=5025&category_id=333&manufacturer_id=121&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1
> To clean my h100 rad ?
> See hw dusty it has bcom...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If not suggest any better method to make it as new..


no... just buy one of this and clean your pc too... http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1359561127&sr=8-1&keywords=Metro+Vacuum+ED500+DataVac+500-Watt


----------



## EliteReplay




----------



## mavisky

Is that H100 image real? Is that thing located under a pile of cats when your system is on or something? May want to run the vacuum in that room and change your furnace filter as well.


----------



## pc-illiterate

use an old toothbrush to clean your filters and your rads. there is no point at all to buy anything special to clean either 1.


----------



## js593

So, just as a heads up for anyone. Ive now called Corsair RMA 3 times now. They keep pushing back the stocking time of the H100I. Im due for a warranty replacement for my H100, and they dont seem to stock one of the higher selling units. Fun times!!
They said ETA is around Feb 6th. So i assume by the end of march, they will probably have.


----------



## Am3Y

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> So, just as a heads up for anyone. Ive now called Corsair RMA 3 times now. They keep pushing back the stocking time of the H100I. Im due for a warranty replacement for my H100, and they dont seem to stock one of the higher selling units. Fun times!!
> They said ETA is around Feb 6th. So i assume by the end of march, they will probably have.


Any ideas to get mine rma ?? I mean wat hapd happd to ur h100 ?
I hav also heard dat they r gvn h100i


----------



## DUpgrade

With regards to "how to clean a computer" those guys are doing the bare minimum. If you really want to clean a computer you have almost half take it apart. That means unpluging certain things like cables, removing the hard drives from the bays, unscrewing the fans and cleaning out the internal fins of the rad. At no point in either video would I deem those machines to be clean, you could clearly see they just blow the dust around a bit and called it better. I guess I just like to stay on top of keeping my machine free of a massive buildup like that. I at least vaccume the front intake of my rig once a week to make sure there is plenty of airflow going into my system.


----------



## SeD669

Quote:


> With regards to "how to clean a computer" those guys are doing the bare minimum. If you really want to clean a computer you have almost half take it apart. That means unpluging certain things like cables, removing the hard drives from the bays, unscrewing the fans and cleaning out the internal fins of the rad. At no point in either video would I deem those machines to be clean, you could clearly see they just blow the dust around a bit and called it better. I guess I just like to stay on top of keeping my machine free of a massive buildup like that. I at least vaccume the front intake of my rig once a week to make sure there is plenty of airflow going into my system.


I used to pull everything apart and wipe the plastic parts with wet-wipes lol.


----------



## js593

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Am3Y*
> 
> Any ideas to get mine rma ?? I mean wat hapd happd to ur h100 ?
> I hav also heard dat they r gvn h100i


My H100 is starting to make internal pump noise. Common issue with the H100. When i called Corsair, they said there's a possibility of them sending me an H100, and not an H100i. Simply that's not acceptable. I told them they would have to fork the bill if the pump blew due to their ignorance of not keeping the H100i's in stock. First issue with Corsair, and im not happy at all with the performance.


----------



## mavisky

Wait, so you're mad that they may not give you a free upgrade to the H100i while honoring their warranty on the H100 you purchased? I'm confused...


----------



## SkateZilla

Im actually getting another H100/100i for my 2nd system.

i might also need to order a replacement bracket.

as it seems when i upgraded my CPU from BD to PD, i may have bent the mounting bracket when i was tightening the screws down.

I also noticed higher temps, and the TIM was cleaned off as it was messed up from being used on my other chip, i used some zalman junk i had lying around, will prolly replace TIM with AS5 or something.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> My H100 is starting to make internal pump noise. Common issue with the H100. When i called Corsair, they said there's a possibility of them sending me an H100, and not an H100i. Simply that's not acceptable. I told them they would have to fork the bill if the pump blew due to their ignorance of not keeping the H100i's in stock. First issue with Corsair, and im not happy at all with the performance.


You bought an H100, why the heck do you think they "owe" you a H100i ? They never guaranteed it would be dead silent.


----------



## mavisky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> You bought an H100, why the heck do you think they "owe" you a H100i ? They never guaranteed it would be dead silent.


Glad I wasn't the only one who thought that was odd.

BRB, going to call Honda to see if I can upgrade to an NSX if something goes wrong with my CR-Z. Make sense right.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> You bought an H100, why the heck do you think they "owe" you a H100i ? They never guaranteed it would be dead silent.
> 
> 
> 
> Glad I wasn't the only one who thought that was odd.
> 
> BRB, going to call Honda to see if I can upgrade to an NSX if something goes wrong with my CR-Z. Make sense right.
Click to expand...

Honda NSX. Yup. Sounds legit.


----------



## pc-illiterate

im going to email corsair. they came out with the h100i after i bought an h100!! that is unacceptable to release something better after i bought 'the best' !!

the mentality of the entitlement crowd is awe inspiring.


----------



## SkateZilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> My H100 is starting to make internal pump noise. Common issue with the H100. When i called Corsair, they said there's a possibility of them sending me an H100, and not an H100i. Simply that's not acceptable. I told them they would have to fork the bill if the pump blew due to their ignorance of not keeping the H100i's in stock. First issue with Corsair, and im not happy at all with the performance.


Makes no sense whatsoever...


----------



## rekay

Hey guys,

This was my first "mod" of sorts when my V8 fan died, and decided to go liquid (replaced V8 fan; gave it to a friend with stock heatsink).

I'm usually scared of playing with stuff located inside the case, but I said screw it. I have upgraded this thing w/o problems (mem, videocard) I don't need to take this in to a shop to install this' especially since they are going to mount it in the rear.

I saw I had a bunch of empty 'vented' drive bays in this HAF932. So thats where it was going.

L Brackets FTW

Corsair H50 'Newegg' Edition // 2x Corsair sp120 HPs

Before:

Middy:

After:

BOOOYAA:


I did some more wire mngmt too

feedback is welcome







thanks


----------



## SkateZilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rekay*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> This was my first "mod" of sorts when my V8 fan died, and decided to go liquid (replaced V8 fan; gave it to a friend with stock heatsink).
> 
> I'm usually scared of playing with stuff located inside the case, but I said screw it. I have upgraded this thing w/o problems (mem, videocard) I don't need to take this in to a shop to install this' especially since they are going to mount it in the rear.
> 
> I saw I had a bunch of empty 'vented' drive bays in this HAF932. So thats where it was going.
> 
> L Brackets FTW
> 
> Corsair H50 'Newegg' Edition // 2x Corsair sp120 HPs
> 
> Before:
> 
> Middy:
> 
> After:
> 
> BOOOYAA:
> 
> 
> I did some more wire mngmt too
> 
> feedback is welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks


I did something similar with my old system about 6 years ago, KAMA Bay Mod, and a HUGE 120MM Fan with like 140 CFM, one in front, one in back, and a Zalman in the middle.. it was CRAZY effective (but a bit loud). (caught dust like no one's business too.)


----------



## rekay

Wooah. I didnt know they sold those things; but i liked the 'experience' of doin it without investing more $$ haha. Did u ziptie that 80mm to ur card?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> My H100 is starting to make internal pump noise. Common issue with the H100. When i called Corsair, they said there's a possibility of them sending me an H100, and not an H100i. Simply that's not acceptable. I told them they would have to fork the bill if the pump blew due to their ignorance of not keeping the H100i's in stock. First issue with Corsair, and im not happy at all with the performance.


Did you make a typo? You say you have an H100 making noise, then you say you want an H100i?

Did you mean you have an H100i making pump noise? If that's what you meant to say, then I agree that you should hold out for an H100i.

If you have an H100 though, then they should replace it with an H100.


----------



## js593

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> You bought an H100, why the heck do you think they "owe" you a H100i ? They never guaranteed it would be dead silent.


The reason why i'm pissed is when i created my RMA, and called them the first time around, they said they would replace it with an H100i. But they never seem to have them in stock. IF they say they are going to replace it with something, they should say they are going to replace it with something in stock. Not only that, but me having to call back 3 times just to get them to tell me every time that they are still out of stock.. Thats crap.

I work in Emergency automotive parts order desk for a major supplier in Canada. (no, not napa, or Part source) and i would NEVER do this to a customer. They want something for warranty, their car cant wait a day running on a seized pump, they need that new one in the morning! Same concept, different parts.

I don't have the stock I5-3570K heatsink either because its packed up and locked away in storage. For me to get it would cost me money, and about 10 hours of time.

So, if you cant see how this doesn't benefit me whatsoever, there's something wrong. I have an H100 that is under 4 months old that is going to die. // not happy.

Edit, sorry there must have been a typo somewhere in my last explanation. I'm looking it over right now, and even i'm saying "***?:" Must have goofed up somewhere in that to even confuse myself.


----------



## 72bluenova

I need some suggestions please regarding fans for the H100i. The stock fans make the case sound like a F-14 taking off, so i decided to swap them with 2 AP-15 but it is still loud for me. In fact louder than my previous setup which was with a CM Hyper 212 Evo with a Cougar PWM fan.

Below is my current setup.
Case - Corsair 550D
MB - Gigabyte X58 USB3
CPU - E5530 (stock)
RAM - 12GB
GPU - MSI TwinFrozr III 6950 OC
HDs - 2 SSDs in a Vantec EZ Swap
1 HD in a 3.5"-5.25" adapter in a 5.25" bay
Fans - 2 Cougar 120mm PWM fans as intake front of the case and one TY-140 as exhaust rear.
Thermal paste was changed to AS5

Currently I have the H100i with two AP-15s set up as push on the top of the case. The Corsair link is set at quiet, yet both fans are at 1300 +/- rpm. i have tried to make a custom setting but it made it worse.

So now I have my amazon cart with 2x Noctua NF-F12 PWM and Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition Twin Pack. Not sure which to get and IF i should get any.

I have some COUGAR CF-V12HP laying around as well. Maybe I could do a comparison between the different fans that I currently have, Stock H100i fans, Ap-15s and CF-V12HP


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *72bluenova*
> 
> I need some suggestions please regarding fans for the H100i. The stock fans make the case sound like a F-14 taking off, so i decided to swap them with 2 AP-15 but it is still loud for me. In fact louder than my previous setup which was with a CM Hyper 212 Evo with a Cougar PWM fan.
> 
> Below is my current setup.
> Case - Corsair 550D
> MB - Gigabyte X58 USB3
> CPU - E5530 (stock)
> RAM - 12GB
> GPU - MSI TwinFrozr III 6950 OC
> HDs - 2 SSDs in a Vantec EZ Swap
> 1 HD in a 3.5"-5.25" adapter in a 5.25" bay
> Fans - 2 Cougar 120mm PWM fans as intake front of the case and one TY-140 as exhaust rear.
> Thermal paste was changed to AS5
> 
> Currently I have the H100i with two AP-15s set up as push on the top of the case. The Corsair link is set at quiet, yet both fans are at 1300 +/- rpm. i have tried to make a custom setting but it made it worse.
> 
> So now I have my amazon cart with 2x Noctua NF-F12 PWM and Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition Twin Pack. Not sure which to get and IF i should get any.
> 
> I have some COUGAR CF-V12HP laying around as well. Maybe I could do a comparison between the different fans that I currently have, Stock H100i fans, Ap-15s and CF-V12HP


I switched my stock h100i fans for two Noctua and it helped greatly with sound. You obviously lose a few degrees of cooling, but it was worth it to me. According to Corsair they will be releasing a software and firmware update to address loud fans. If those two updates don't work, they will send you two new replacement fans. There was no set time frame for the updates, but hopefully within a few weeks.

Both fans you have in your cart are good, but if you can wait a couple weeks the updates or new fans from Corsair might fix your issue. The tech also told me that you can try plugging the two stock fans directly into the mobo (bypass the pump and corsair link) and that might help the sound.


----------



## 72bluenova

Going to try tonight with the different fans and different configurations. Will report back with the update.

Will wait for the new firmware update. If it does not help, then try another set of fans.


----------



## SkateZilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rekay*
> 
> Wooah. I didnt know they sold those things; but i liked the 'experience' of doin it without investing more $$ haha. Did u ziptie that 80mm to ur card?


Nah the 60 or 80 MM fan Housing the fan is in on that image was originally a clip from my old Packard Bell 486Dx2, and it just happen to fit perfectly on the GPU PCB and Sound Card PCB.

I used it to force Air into the GPU Blower, and between the heatsink and pcb

I think Scythe made the front KAMA Bay Mod, but it's been long discontinued from NewEgg:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185020


----------



## derfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *72bluenova*
> 
> I need some suggestions please regarding fans for the H100i. The stock fans make the case sound like a F-14 taking off, so i decided to swap them with 2 AP-15 but it is still loud for me. In fact louder than my previous setup which was with a CM Hyper 212 Evo with a Cougar PWM fan.
> 
> Below is my current setup.
> Case - Corsair 550D
> MB - Gigabyte X58 USB3
> CPU - E5530 (stock)
> RAM - 12GB
> GPU - MSI TwinFrozr III 6950 OC
> HDs - 2 SSDs in a Vantec EZ Swap
> 1 HD in a 3.5"-5.25" adapter in a 5.25" bay
> Fans - 2 Cougar 120mm PWM fans as intake front of the case and one TY-140 as exhaust rear.
> Thermal paste was changed to AS5
> 
> Currently I have the H100i with two AP-15s set up as push on the top of the case. The Corsair link is set at quiet, yet both fans are at 1300 +/- rpm. i have tried to make a custom setting but it made it worse.
> 
> So now I have my amazon cart with 2x Noctua NF-F12 PWM and Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition Twin Pack. Not sure which to get and IF i should get any.
> 
> I have some COUGAR CF-V12HP laying around as well. Maybe I could do a comparison between the different fans that I currently have, Stock H100i fans, Ap-15s and CF-V12HP


I'd get a fan controller or just get two AP14s. I agree the AP15 is way too loud at stock.


----------



## polzii




----------



## polzii




----------



## polzii

Corsair ♥


----------



## Nethermir

^ I would suggest you change the rings to blue ones to match the rest of your rig. Also, next time please upload the pics directly here because for some reason the host that you are using is loading slow


----------



## jktmas

^Agreed on both counts


----------



## Mergatroid

^ Might want to avoid triple posts and posting the same thing twice as well.


----------



## Erick Silver

AHHHH!!! T1 line and I am loading pics for more than a few minutes??? Come on man. What service did you use to upload those pics?

I'm sorry Polzii. I have to block either the posts up there or you entirely because with the pics its taking way too long to load the page completely.

Someone please let me know when the problem is fixed. I hate blocking a member because of that kind of thing but its been loading for like 5 minutes now.


----------



## DUpgrade

^ Those pics remind me of when I was using a 14k or 28k baud modem with the speed they're loading. OP should be uploading them to OCN and posting them that way. I've never understood why people use external image hosts anyway.


----------



## justanoldman

Lapping a cpu is no big deal, but I was wondering if any of you have lapped your Hydro series cooler. It would seem to be rather difficult unless you unscrew the cold plate, and I don't know what would happen if you do that. Thanks for any help or guidance.


----------



## jktmas

I believe the whole thing falls apart if you unscrew those so i suggest leaving them


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Lapping a cpu is no big deal, but I was wondering if any of you have lapped your Hydro series cooler. It would seem to be rather difficult unless you unscrew the cold plate, and I don't know what would happen if you do that. Thanks for any help or guidance.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EtzRo6DYH6o


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EtzRo6DYH6o


Thanks.
So it looks like you can easily remove the cold plate for lapping. However you will be exposing the system to air, and potentially spill some of the liquid in the system. Also, I don't how much has change since the video and the new h100i.

Then the question is, will letting air into a previously water tight system matter, and if you spill some of the liquid, what do you replace it with?


----------



## pc-illiterate

lol. i wouldnt take apart an under warranty hydro. replace tubing and add a rez. i was just looking at your cooler and i saw h100i and lol'd. no, for real, lol'd. was taking too long with his double post of a rig pic.
i doubt you would see a difference with an h100i. my h100 was pretty shiny without any noticable scratches. didnt think to straight edge it but, i doubt its warped. my temps are too good









short answer: dont do it.


----------



## SkateZilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> ^ Those pics remind me of when I was using a 14k or 28k baud modem with the speed they're loading. OP should be uploading them to OCN and posting them that way. I've never understood why people use external image hosts anyway.


they remind me of AOL on 28 baud, click something . "Please wait while we download new art"... Goto dinner, come back, shi, shower, shave, and it's at 99% finally. brings up another menu, click. "Please wait while we download new art". AAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHH.

I ditched 28 baud as soon as I could, and AOL for that matter.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> lol. i wouldnt take apart an under warranty hydro. replace tubing and add a rez. i was just looking at your cooler and i saw h100i and lol'd. no, for real, lol'd. was taking too long with his double post of a rig pic.
> i doubt you would see a difference with an h100i. my h100 was pretty shiny without any noticable scratches. didnt think to straight edge it but, i doubt its warped. my temps are too good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> short answer: dont do it.


No problem, I understand what you are saying and wouldn't recommend any sane person do it.









Having just delidded and lapped my 3770k, sane doesn't really apply to me.

That video actually helped. It showed the cold plate will come right off. If you keep the pump up in the air, you won't lose more than a few drops of liquid I bet. My problem is that my now completely flat ihs doesn't meet up all that well with the cold plate since the h100i is slightly convex.


----------



## SkateZilla

just dont bend the bracket when you put the screws on









I think i did that with my AMD Bracket, as load temps seem to be a eye browsing bit higher after I upgraded my cpu.

i think I used the screw driver to tighten them down when I shoulda just used my fingers and tightened them at the same time.


----------



## pc-illiterate

ouch. guess it was a bad idea to lap that 3770k. live n learn. you could always send that old cpu to me and get a new one. i promise to abuse it. lol
speaking of sane, all those monitors yours? if they are, no youre not...


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> ouch. guess it was a bad idea to lap that 3770k. live n learn. you could always send that old cpu to me and get a new one. i promise to abuse it. lol
> speaking of sane, all those monitors yours? if they are, no youre not...


That was my old setup in the pic, it is slightly different now. 3 x Dell u2412m, 2 x NEC 3090wqxi now.

My delidding temps were ok not great so I started looking for more. When I checked and saw my ihs was really concave I figured lapping would help. To be honest though, before a few days ago I didn't know what lapping was and had to watch a video to do it. It is actually quite easy. I am just here to learn, so if I break something and have to replace it, no big deal.


----------



## Mergatroid

There are people earlier in the thread who have lapped H50s. I don't believe they took the unit apart, but were just really careful while lapping the plate.


----------



## braindrain

Hey folks. Just wanted to ask what fans people are using on their H100i's and how they have them connected? From what I've read the Corsair SP120's can't be controlled by the header on the pump unit. Seem's stupid to have the capacity for having to set's of fan's on the unit, and include a second y-splitter if only the stock fans will work with it. Do other fans work, as in still have control through Corsair Link, or not? I think my fans have that annoying whine, it's just at the edge of hearing but now I know it's there it bugs me. Also the RPM of one of the fans is off. Usually about 30 RPM slower than the other. Was planning on replacing them at some point but if I have to use a fan controller to control them, that changes things.


----------



## oddworld

I got the stock fans and a set of SP-120 and i have no problems with controlling the fans using the crosair link


----------



## braindrain

Really? That's good to know. On the Corsair forums RAM GUY said you couldn't control the RPM of the SP120's with the built in fan controller. Thanks.


----------



## Mattyd893

Anyone that is getting the new H90 or H110, when you have your build done come on over to this thread and give me your pics









http://www.overclock.net/t/1144409/h80-h80i-h100-h100i-case-compatibility-thread-page-1-for-full-listings


----------



## pc-illiterate

h100 with 2 excaliburs pushing and 2 bbgears blaster 120s pulling, all shrouded and controlled by the mobo. works pretty well.
70*f ambients and 63*c max cores, 4.5ghz @ 1.320-1.328v (vccio 1.14375


----------



## 72bluenova

So, last night I swapped the fans on the H100i from the AP-15 to the Cougars PWM. The first thing i noticed was that iLink was controlling the fans with no problem. So I wonder why iLink was not able to control the AP-15. Yes they are not PWM, but it does not make a difference as the stock h100i fans are also 3 pin fans and are controlled by iLink.

So now I am contemplating in buying some SP120s or even some NF-F12 and see how it goes.


----------



## braindrain

Might just end up getting some SP120's. Hard to tell what the static pressure of some of the fans here are. Most of the high end fans cost a fortune.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Excaliburs are the highest static pressure 120x25 fans you can buy i believe. Also quieter than the stock 49dcbl fans.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> h100 with 2 excaliburs pushing and 2 bbgears blaster 120s pulling, all shrouded and controlled by the mobo. works pretty well.
> 70*f ambients and 63*c max cores, 4.5ghz @ 1.320-1.328v (vccio 1.14375


OOOHHHHHHH a Bgears user. How did you find their static pressure? It's rated *really* high (3.5mm/h20 for the 140mm version) and I was wondering if those ratings lived up to their true performance


----------



## pc-illiterate

Their sp is listed everywhere that sell them online and its on the box also. Great fans. I have both 120 and 140 bblasters. Great fans in my opinion.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Their sp is listed everywhere that sell them online and its on the box also. Great fans. I have both 120 and 140 bblasters. Great fans in my opinion.


No I understand it's listed everywhere. But that doesn't mean it's *true*. Many fans are rated higher than their true performance, for marketing reasons ...


----------



## Jbrown4124

Hi All,

have had this for a while finally joined the club


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindrain*
> 
> Hey folks. Just wanted to ask what fans people are using on their H100i's and how they have them connected? From what I've read the Corsair SP120's can't be controlled by the header on the pump unit. Seem's stupid to have the capacity for having to set's of fan's on the unit, and include a second y-splitter if only the stock fans will work with it. Do other fans work, as in still have control through Corsair Link, or not? I think my fans have that annoying whine, it's just at the edge of hearing but now I know it's there it bugs me. Also the RPM of one of the fans is off. Usually about 30 RPM slower than the other. Was planning on replacing them at some point but if I have to use a fan controller to control them, that changes things.


Don't forget that if you do change the fans, you could always go with PWM fans and plug them into your motherboard for auto control just like the stock heatsink fans. Some motherboards have two CPU_FAN headers (mine does). If not, you an always use a PWM splitter cable. The 30 RPM dif between fans is nothing to worry about.


----------



## braindrain

There are 4 fan headers on my board, not including the CPU fan header. Problem is only 2 can be controlled. I'd need splitter cable for 4 fans only problem is finding one in this country. Another problem is that Speed Fan seems to thing the fans I have connected to the Motherboard are running at 6500 RPM so I wont be able to use that. I tested a few 120mm fans I had lying around and the H100i seems to control them up to a point. Some folks say the SP120's work fine with them. Also looking at the CM Excalibur.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindrain*
> 
> There are 4 fan headers on my board, not including the CPU fan header. Problem is only 2 can be controlled. I'd need splitter cable for 4 fans only problem is finding one in this country. Another problem is that Speed Fan seems to thing the fans I have connected to the Motherboard are running at 6500 RPM so I wont be able to use that. I tested a few 120mm fans I had lying around and the H100i seems to control them up to a point. Some folks say the SP120's work fine with them. Also looking at the CM Excalibur.


How good are you with a soldering iron? The alternative is to maybe consider a fan controller if you don't have enough headers on the mobo.


----------



## braindrain

My soldering skills are....messy, but OK. Probably end up getting a fan controller anyway. Only seem to get 5 channel controllers here and it would be nice to be able to control all the fans on the H100i at the same time. I'm sure I could wire something up, just need to see how much power the controller can handle.


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Excaliburs are the highest static pressure 120x25 fans you can buy i believe. Also quieter than the stock 49dcbl fans.


Where did you get that information. Those are not static pressure fans at all.


----------



## mavisky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Where did you get that information. Those are not static pressure fans at all.


Living up to his user name??


----------



## js593

^ I lol'd

Hey im curious, when you guys use a push pull setup, is it better to have fans with static pressure, or no? I have 10 fans on the way, but curious if i can use them. I was having serious static pressure issues with them before.

Let me know what you think

thx.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Where did you get that information. Those are not static pressure fans at all.


definitely better than those overpriced corsair 'sp' fans. the bgears bblasters are also better than the corsair fans.


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> ^ I lol'd
> 
> Hey im curious, when you guys use a push pull setup, is it better to have fans with static pressure, or no? I have 10 fans on the way, but curious if i can use them. I was having serious static pressure issues with them before.
> 
> Let me know what you think
> 
> thx.


You allways use static pressure fans on rads. Best static pressure fans are; scythe gentle typhoons (my favorites), corsair sp series (not af), noctua nf-f12, NB eloop, yate loons and so on. That about covers it. There are so many fans out there but those are the best.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> h100 with 2 excaliburs pushing and 2 bbgears blaster 120s pulling, all shrouded and controlled by the mobo. works pretty well.
> 70*f ambients and 63*c max cores, 4.5ghz @ 1.320-1.328v (vccio 1.14375
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Excaliburs are the highest static pressure 120x25 fans you can buy i believe. Also quieter than the stock 49dcbl fans.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> definitely better than those overpriced corsair 'sp' fans. the bgears bblasters are also better than the corsair fans.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Where did you get that information. Those are not static pressure fans at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Ok lets not get carried away here ... you'll get as many opinions on which fans are "The Best"? as you will with "Condoms"







... It really comes down to the users "set up" and personal preference of Performance / Noise / Cost$$$ and relative priorities









Statistics (manufacturer specs) are just statistics but you need to start somewhere








I found *THIS THREAD* to be useful for extrapolating information in a controlled real world, same setup environment. Even though it is NOT with a "radiator" it is still relavent for extrapolation, and it looks like "Cyclops" will expand his tests to include 120mm / 140mm radiators in the future









Martinsliquidlab.org *HERE* ... seems to be up and flying again, he was quite popular here at OCN until some strange rule enforcement caused some conflicts









Here are my own notes on the fans recently compared or commented about ... factory specs or Frozencpu specs ...

Hydro Series H100:
Radiator dimensions: 122mm x 275mm x 27mm
Fan dimensions: 120mm x 120mm x 25mm
TOTAL Thickness 52 millimeters = 2.04724409 inches
Fan speed: 1300 - 2600RPM
Fan RPM - 1300 RPM (Low Noise), 2000 RPM (Balanced), 2500 RPM (High Performance)
Fan airflow: 46 - 92 CFM
Fan dBA: 22 - 39 dBA
Fan static pressure: 1.6 - 7.7mm/H20 [7.7 mm/H2O on HIGH]

Hydro Series H100i:
120mm SP120*L* High Performance
2700 RPM / 77 CFM Fan dBA: 37.68 dBA / static pressure: 4mm/H20
Probably the same fan as the SP120 HP's below, just running at a higher RPM?

Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition CO-9050007-WW 120mm ... $14.99 / $23.99
2350 RPM / 62.74 CFM / Static Pressure (mm/H2O): 3.1 mm/H2O
35 dBA

Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition CO-9050005-WW 120mm High Static Pressure ... $18.99
1450 RPM / 37.85 CFM / Static Pressure (mm/H2O): 1.29 mm/H2O
23 dBA

Scythe Gentle Typhoon (D1225C12B5AP-15) - 1850 RPM/ 3-Pin ... $15.95
1850 RPM / 28dBA / 58.3CFM / Static Pressure: inH2o 0.081 - 2.05 mm H2O
[Static Pressure: 2.9 mmH2O (from Nidec)]

COOLER MASTER Excalibur R4-EXBB-20PK-R0 120mm ... $17.99
600 - 2000 RPM±10% / 13 - 30 dBA
26.4 - 85.6 CFM±10% / Air pressure (mmH2O): 0.75 - 3.53 mmH2O

BGears B-Blaster 120mm x 25mm 2000RPM ... Price: $9.99
Airflow: 103CFM Pressure: 3.00mmH20 Voltage: 12v Noise: 35dBA
3 pin 3 lead wire connector with Fan Speed signal output

BitFenix Spectre Pro 120mm Fan - All White (BFF-SPRO-12025WW-RP) ... $11.99
1200 RPM ±10% / 56.22 CFM ±10% / Air Pressure (mmH2O): 1.24 mmH2O / 18.9 dB(A)

*XSPC 120mm x 25mm Radiator / Chassis Fan - 1650 RPM*
65.2CFM Noise: ~29dBA Static Pressure: 1.8mmAq Voltage: 5.5 - 13.8V. Connector: 3-Pin
In all seriousness this is probably the best radiator fan out there ... For Performance/Noise/$$$ $8.99 .... Yes .. overall better than the GT AP-15's ... As far as noise goes... people need to stop spreading misinformation about the ap-15's being quiet, at full 12v they are noisy ... see below ...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1236115/static-pressure-rating-for-gentle-typhoon-ap-15/20

Noctua NF F12 vs Gentle Typhoon AP15
I also found *THIS THREAD* interesting as I was a big Noctua fan, pun intended







, in the past ...


----------



## DUpgrade

^ Thank you for compiling this information to help people better understand the different static pressure fans. +Rep.







:


----------



## js593

I currently use the Enermax TB Silence fans for my intake, and as my exhaust, i currently have the Corsair SP/HP120's on my H100 and some Silverstone's which also have high static pressure. Curious to know what kind of fans you would suggest for these radiators. I plan on getting 2 more fans for the H100, or using the Tb Silence fans if possible (not sure that it is due to the lack of Static pressure)

Let me know of your thoughts of this. Id liike to stick with one fan, but i don't think that will be an option. All these fans are run off a controller, and not my onboard case controller. Each input will provide power for 3 fans.

Thanks.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> ^ Thank you for compiling this information to help people better understand the different static pressure fans. +Rep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


No problem, thanks for the comment







... As little as 2 years ago most people didn't even consider the Static Pressure of a fan, they just didn't know about it, and it's relation to efficiently move air through a restriction, kinda like the torque vs horsepower disscusion and pulling heavy loads or beastly acceleration out of a turn! I however do think that _"The higher the static pressure the better_" concept is blown way out of proportion at times. A lesson Corsair learned with the original stock fans for the H100/H80.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> I currently use the Enermax TB Silence fans for my intake, and as my exhaust, i currently have the Corsair SP/HP120's on my H100 and some Silverstone's which also have high static pressure. Curious to know what kind of fans you would suggest for these radiators. I plan on getting 2 more fans for the H100, or using the Tb Silence fans if possible (not sure that it is due to the lack of Static pressure)
> 
> Let me know of your thoughts of this. Id liike to stick with one fan, but i don't think that will be an option. All these fans are run off a controller, and not my onboard case controller. Each input will provide power for 3 fans.
> 
> Thanks.


While the Enermax TB Silence fans were designed solely as a case fan with appx 37-70 cfm and only a SP of 0.828 mm-H2O, some guys have complained about "side" air bleed when the fan is used in a resistance application (radiators) ... BUT IMHO you may get away with using the Enermax fans in a *push/pull* on your H100's relatively thin radiator, giving you have such a good (setup) in your case airflow. Depends on your overclock and workload (encoding?) but I bet you may only see a 3c-5c (maybe higher?) rise in your load temps







... only way to know for sure is to try it out ... one thing for sure it will be quieter









EDIT: PS I'm not sure why you aren't happy with your current setup? Noise? / Looks?, can't really improve on performance with those fans ... but ideally I'd leave the SP120's in the push config and possibly replace the Silverstones (what model?) to help reduce noise? if that's the main issue ....


----------



## js593

I like to play with the noise factor lol.
The silverstone is the Air Penetrator version http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX29399

i'm happy with it, i just want to experiment. The fans are mostly for people with machines that just want them a bit cooler.
(i run a side business to repair computers on my own time, people like fans that are almost non existent to ears, but do the job.)


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Where did you get that information. Those are not static pressure fans at all.


3.53mmH2O is quite good static pressure. If that spec is accurate, then that pressure is better than the Corsair SP120 "High Performance Edition" (3.1mmH2O). I don't see how you can say "they're not static pressure fans at all". People in this thread have used those fans on H100 coolers.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> ^ I lol'd
> 
> Hey im curious, when you guys use a push pull setup, is it better to have fans with static pressure, or no? I have 10 fans on the way, but curious if i can use them. I was having serious static pressure issues with them before.
> 
> Let me know what you think
> 
> thx.


Yes, SP fans are for rads.


----------



## jktmas

Ok my NEW! H80 came in from corsair after a much much longer than expected wait and i should be done until i get my 570 or my psu sleeved.
Normal H80 with stock fans.
not done overclocking but im @4.2ghz on a 3570k and idling @28c maxing at 80c under p95


----------



## mwl5apv

quick question....

I have been searching online but have not come up with the answer I am looking for,...I have the old school original H70 with the 50mm think radiator. How thick is the radiator on the H80i? is it the same thickness? or a little thinner?

The numbers I have been able to find sayt he H80i has a 38mm rad but from pictures it looks almost as thick as the H70's. Which is it?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwl5apv*
> 
> quick question....
> 
> I have been searching online but have not come up with the answer I am looking for,...I have the old school original H70 with the 50mm think radiator. How thick is the radiator on the H80i? is it the same thickness? or a little thinner?
> 
> The numbers I have been able to find sayt he H80i has a 38mm rad but from pictures it looks almost as thick as the H70's. Which is it?


Corsair and their spec sheets are quite accurate ... specs from Corsair's website *HERE*

Technical Specifications H80i
•Radiator dimensions: 120mm x 152mm x 38mm

Yea Corsair has learned alot on performance maximization with radiators and seem to be going thinner and thinner ... the NEW H90 is only 27mm thick


----------



## mwl5apv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Corsair and their spec sheets are quite accurate ... specs from Corsair's website *HERE*
> 
> Technical Specifications H80i
> •Radiator dimensions: 120mm x 152mm x 38mm
> 
> Yea Corsair has learned alot on performance maximization with radiators and seem to be going thinner and thinner ... the NEW H90 is only 27mm thick


Thank you for your answer and for confirming that the H80i rad is thinner than the H70 Rad.

I am in the process of deciding whether I want to go H100i or H80i to replace my H70. I have a feeling it's on its last legs since my power supply killed my motherboard cpu fan headers( the IC that controls them popped when the power supply had a voltage spike, and melted the 3-pin connecter from the pump to the header and shorted everything out..

Any preferences? will the H80i in P&P cool as well as the 100i in just push?(no room at the top of my case for a p&p 100i)


----------



## mavisky

Corsair's information seems to show the H100 still holding an advantage of the H80 out of the box and that gap widens if converted to push/pull.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwl5apv*
> 
> Thank you for your answer and for confirming that the H80i rad is thinner than the H70 Rad.
> 
> I am in the process of deciding whether I want to go H100i or H80i to replace my H70. I have a feeling it's on its last legs since my power supply killed my motherboard cpu fan headers( the IC that controls them popped when the power supply had a voltage spike, and melted the 3-pin connecter from the pump to the header and shorted everything out..
> 
> Any preferences? will the H80i in P&P cool as well as the 100i in just push?(no room at the top of my case for a p&p 100i)


Looks like the H100i still holds the same advantage over the H80i as the H100 did over the H80. I certainly would take the H100i over the H80i/H80 in both cases. I read alot of reviews and on average with a moderate OC the advantage is around 4c-5c better OC Full load temps.

Nice, consistant review *HERE*



While reading about the NEW H110 *HERE* I found this graph very informative ... The H110 is a "No Frills" excellent performer while also being one of the QUIETEST coolers under Load in the test









The Kraken X60 got a lot of well deserved "Hype" but if Noise AND COST$$$ are a concern ... *IT'S TOAST*


----------



## mwl5apv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> Corsair's information seems to show the H100 still holding an advantage of the H80 out of the box and that gap widens if converted to push/pull.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Looks like the H100i still holds the same advantage over the H80i as the H100 did over the H80. I certainly would take the H100i over the H80i/H80 in both cases. I read alot of reviews and on average with a moderate OC the advantage is around 4c-5c better OC Full load temps.
> 
> Nice, consistant review *HERE*
> 
> 
> 
> While reading about the NEW H110 *HERE* I found this graph very informative ... The H110 is a "No Frills" excellent performer while also being one of the QUIETEST coolers under Load in the test
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kraken X60 got a lot of well deserved "Hype" but if Noise AND COST$$$ are a concern ... *IT'S TOAST*


I looked at the H100i first.

But I would not be able to run push & pull with it as My case will limit me from doing so(not enough clearance from the top of the motherboard).
How does the H100i with just a push configuratin compare to the H80i with p&p?

Also, if i somehow managed to get a push/pull config with the H100i to fit. What effect on cooling will using a high static pressure/high cfm fan as push and a lower rpm fan as pull have?

Specifically using Corsair SP120 fans as push and Bitfenix spectre 120mm as pull?


----------



## pc-illiterate

the faster spinning fans pushing more air into a slower spinning fan will/should cause the slower spinning fan to spin faster. i dont think it has a good effect on the fan's motor. BUT, if the slower fan is pushing the same amount of air as the faster spinning fan, it will run its normal rpm.
according to martin, pull fans with and without a shroud perform better than push with and without a shroud. this only goes for 25mm fans. its opposite for 38mm fans.

http://martinsliquidlab.petrastech.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html


----------



## MerkageTurk

I hesrd corsair will be giving free fans for h100i and h80i users whom have problems with there unit.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> I hesrd corsair will be giving free fans for h100i and h80i users whom have problems with there unit.


If you buy a new unit now, they come with 4 pin fans, the originals came with 3 pin fans. You can contact them to send in your original fans, and get the new 4 pin ones.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> the faster spinning fans pushing more air into a slower spinning fan will/should cause the slower spinning fan to spin faster. i dont think it has a good effect on the fan's motor. BUT, if the slower fan is pushing the same amount of air as the faster spinning fan, it will run its normal rpm.
> according to martin, pull fans with and without a shroud perform better than push with and without a shroud. this only goes for 25mm fans. its opposite for 38mm fans.
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.petrastech.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html


Don't forget the differences in temps are minimal. In that article you're talking about fractions of a degree as shown in the last chart. Corsair George says Corsair tested the H100 push vs push/pull and didn't get any temp difference. I think it depends more on your case than it does on the cooler.

Also, when considering the flow of faster/slower fans, don't forget the obstruction represented by the radiator.


----------



## pc-illiterate

well i can tell you i got a temp diff of 3* i believe it was when i went push/pull. drop another 2* for a total of 5* when i shrouded both sides of my 100. remember though that i changed fans as soon as i got it. the stock fans are just plain loud. there is no way around that fact. my proof is only my word. i have no before pics of temps.
cant wait to sell it. that will mean my xt45 is in and leak free


----------



## Mergatroid

I used to use push/pull on my H100. Now I'm using just push because of how little difference it made. I think that, if the mesh on your case is more of an obstruction than some other cases, then adding another set of fans may help drive the air through. Same can be said of thicker rads, like the H80. The link to the liquid lab test also shows very little difference between push and pull (like .3c).

Personally, if I were setting up an H100 now, I would use push/pull if it fit in my case, but I wouldn't do any heavy mods (like I did on my 600T when I first got the H100) to achieve it because the temp difference is so minor (again, depending on your case).


----------



## SeD669

Quote:


> I looked at the H100i first.
> 
> But I would not be able to run push & pull with it as My case will limit me from doing so(not enough clearance from the top of the motherboard).
> How does the H100i with just a push configuratin compare to the H80i with p&p?
> 
> Also, if i somehow managed to get a push/pull config with the H100i to fit. What effect on cooling will using a high static pressure/high cfm fan as push and a lower rpm fan as pull have?
> 
> Specifically using Corsair SP120 fans as push and Bitfenix spectre 120mm as pull?


The stock H100i beats the H80i no doubt.
I replaced my H80i stock fans with Noctua NF-F12 fans and its still not as good as my friends H100i on stock fans.. But this may not be an accurate example.... our cases are similar but there are some differences in our air-flow.

If it fits, go the H100i







you wont regret it.


----------



## dixson01974

Hey. I'm wondering if the controller on H100 can handle 2 AP-29 fans?


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dixson01974*
> 
> Hey. I'm wondering if the controller on H100 can handle 2 AP-29 fans?


I don't see why not. Quite a few people use those fans instead of the stock fans.


----------



## dixson01974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> I don't see why not. Quite a few people use those fans instead of the stock fans.


Ok. I was just checking before I took them out.


----------



## Am3Y

Guys suggest some led pwm fans for my h100 ...


----------



## Devildog83

Hey, can the AF 120's be controlled by the corsair link software or will they be stuck at 1 speed?


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Am3Y*
> 
> Guys suggest some led pwm fans for my h100 ...


BitFenix Specter PWM LED


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Am3Y*
> 
> Guys suggest some led pwm fans for my h100 ...
> 
> 
> 
> BitFenix Specter PWM LED
Click to expand...

+1

and Cooler Master XtraFlo LED (3.30 mmH20) but 38 dBA. You could running them lower RPM.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Am3Y*
> 
> Guys suggest some led pwm fans for my h100 ...
> 
> 
> 
> BitFenix Specter PWM LED
Click to expand...

+1

and Cooler Master XtraFlo LED (3.30 mmH20) but 38 dBA. You could running them lower RPM.


----------



## Mergatroid

Those spectre pro LED fans are only 1.88 mmH2O for static pressure, which is really crappy. There's no way I would use those on a rad. I was using some Lepa "Casino Fans" ( http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX40631 ) which have 2.18 mmH2O and they sucked the big one. Personally I wouldn't use anything with less than 3 mmH2O. It would be fine if noise was more important than cooling, but if you want good cooling, get good static pressure.

On the other hand, the Casino fans looked pretty cool and have multiple light patterns, but they cost $15 each. I was thinking about using one in my rear exhaust spot (on my case).


----------



## NorKris

hey guys..

i got a H80i, and it comes with one Y splitter for 2 fans, would it be possible to split it up again and run 4-or more fans of of the H80i?

and then controll it in the software


----------



## dixson01974

I have 1 more question about the H100 fan controller.
Does anyone know the max amps that it can handle?


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> hey guys..
> 
> i got a H80i, and it comes with one Y splitter for 2 fans, would it be possible to split it up again and run 4-or more fans of of the H80i?
> 
> and then controll it in the software


I don't see why you couldn't do this, however I don't know how Corsair Link would see this either? With the thickness of the H80i and push/pull fans already, why would you want more? I only put a single AF140 above mine so it has plenty of air flow.


----------



## NorKris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> I don't see why you couldn't do this, however I don't know how Corsair Link would see this either? With the thickness of the H80i and push/pull fans already, why would you want more? I only put a single AF140 above mine so it has plenty of air flow.


i want to add more cuz i do somthing awsome







i want more fans in the same area.. and if it works i will try to "Y" up 3 fans and one H60 to the H80i's fan controller


----------



## mavisky

Wait are you wanting to run 4 fans on a single 120mm radiator or are you just trying to use the built in controller to also drive two other case fans nearby?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dixson01974*
> 
> Hey. I'm wondering if the controller on H100 can handle 2 AP-29 fans?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dixson01974*
> 
> I have 1 more question about the H100 fan controller.
> Does anyone know the max amps that it can handle?
Click to expand...

I saw this question earlier and briefly tried to get "the" answer, no luck yet ... your concern is "genuine" as the AP-29's draw signifigantly more power than the more common AP-15's which I think led to the advise you got earlier ... "why not?"









It may take some time, but I'd ask Corsair directly ... save your correspondance too, just in case








I'll report back if I find anything but the AP-29's are not that common of a fan ...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Am3Y*
> 
> Guys suggest some led pwm fans for my h100 ...


It would help most of us if you gave more info? ... system specs?/overclock?/is Noise the main concern for the retrofit? etc etc ...

Guys are really happy with the COUGAR CF-V12HP Vortex PWM *HERE*... AND *HERE* is a local debate vs the "Ever Popular" AP-15's









Although being the most expensive, everyone I know really likes the Noctua NF-F12 PWM *HERE*for performance vs noise ...


----------



## NorKris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> Wait are you wanting to run 4 fans on a single 120mm radiator or are you just trying to use the built in controller to also drive two other case fans nearby?


not planing using the h80i's controller for the 2 fans at the rad, but 3 other fans and maybe a h60..^^
rad fans --> case fan controller


----------



## [email protected]

Add me to the club once again. Well i am already in the club rofl.
Sorry for the picture it was sent from a crappy old droid of mine. I really need to get a new cell cuz i washed mine in the washer







Anyways... here are the results i have today on my rig.


Anyhow let me know if these temps look normal to you? They do look normal. Do i need to download Corsair drivers? Not sure if i should or is it needed?

Let me know soon!


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> hey guys..
> 
> i got a H80i, and it comes with one Y splitter for 2 fans, would it be possible to split it up again and run 4-or more fans of of the H80i?
> 
> and then controll it in the software


You will have to check with Corsair and see what power output the H80i block can handle. If you draw too much power by using too many fans you can blow the controller. If you blow the controller, you'd have to lie to get it serviced under warranty since I'm sure overdrawing power would void the warranty.

If you look around you'll find the 'net, and even ocn, are riddled with people who have blown a fan controller channel by adding too many fans to one channel.

Also note that the H80 and H100 don't use true PWM (and I doubt the H80i and H100i do either). PWM fans can be controlled by regulating the 12v line just like 3-pin fans are, and that's what the H100 and H80 do. If one is going to use the H80i or H100i block for controlling fans, I see no point to purchasing PWM fans. However, motherboards do control the cpu fan by using true PWM control. I use PWM fans myself on my H100, but they're plugged into my main board so they are controlled properly, and not just by amplitude regulation of the 12V line. (note that the motherboard I have has an optional CPU_FAN header, thus allowing two cpu fans to be controller from the mobo).

With PWM fans, you can pretty much put as many fans as you like on one channel using a PWM splitter that draws power direct from the power supply, while the PWM signal makes all the fans run at the same RPM. So, adding more fans just draws more power from the psu, not from the fan controller. 3-pin fans draw their power from the controller, so my adding more fans you are increasing the current draw from the controller which may cause it to operate beyond its capacity and fail.


----------



## NorKris

i know, the h100 and 80 uses molex/satapower but the H60 uses a pwm


----------



## dixson01974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I saw this question earlier and briefly tried to get "the" answer, no luck yet ... your concern is "genuine" as the AP-29's draw signifigantly more power than the more common AP-15's which I think led to the advise you got earlier ... "why not?"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may take some time, but I'd ask Corsair directly ... save your correspondance too, just in case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll report back if I find anything but the AP-29's are not that common of a fan .


I may want to go 4 AP-29 on the controller sir and this is why I ask the second question.


----------



## NorKris

how many ampere is it for each fan?


----------



## dixson01974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> how many ampere is it for each fan?


AP-29 are 0.22A each, so 0.88A total for 4 fans.


----------



## NorKris

srsly? 0.22 each? thats nothing... 99.99% sure u can have 6 or 8 of them on it

most fans i use have 37 or somthing and i have 6 on one controller ( and yes thats one molex too)


----------



## devilpriest

Hi, guys! I just got my H100i back from being RMA'd, they sent me a new unit. I installed at the top of my case, with the two corsair fans in push and above the radiator I mounted two scythe 88CFM fans in pull. So i kinda got the best fans I could find in my city, but the cooling performance is still poor. I don't know why this is. I'm coming from an air CPU cooler (Arctic Cooling Freezer Pro 13) that kept my [email protected] in prime95 smallfft under 74-75 degrees even after, lets say 15 mins. My h100i as I have it installed now, under prime95 spikes up to 81 degrees immediately after starting smallfft test and goes up to near 88-90 degrees. Mind you, I used the AC freezer with an AS MX-4 paste and the H100i with the thermal paste that came pre-applied. How are your H100i behaving? What can I do the get at least the performance of the AC Freezer 13? It's bad to see a 50$ air cooler perform better than a 150$ water cooling kit...


----------



## Eusbwoa18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilpriest*
> 
> Hi, guys! I just got my H100i back from being RMA'd, they sent me a new unit. I installed at the top of my case, with the two corsair fans in push and above the radiator I mounted two scythe 88CFM fans in pull. So i kinda got the best fans I could find in my city, but the cooling performance is still poor. I don't know why this is. I'm coming from an air CPU cooler (Arctic Cooling Freezer Pro 13) that kept my [email protected] in prime95 smallfft under 74-75 degrees even after, lets say 15 mins. My h100i as I have it installed now, under prime95 spikes up to 81 degrees immediately after starting smallfft test and goes up to near 88-90 degrees. Mind you, I used the AC freezer with an AS MX-4 paste and the H100i with the thermal paste that came pre-applied. How are your H100i behaving? What can I do the get at least the performance of the AC Freezer 13? It's bad to see a 50$ air cooler perform better than a 150$ water cooling kit...


I'd guess that the pre applied paste is garbage but somthing is wrong with this picture....


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilpriest*
> 
> Hi, guys! I just got my H100i back from being RMA'd, they sent me a new unit. I installed at the top of my case, with the two corsair fans in push and above the radiator I mounted two scythe 88CFM fans in pull. So i kinda got the best fans I could find in my city, but the cooling performance is still poor. I don't know why this is. I'm coming from an air CPU cooler (Arctic Cooling Freezer Pro 13) that kept my [email protected] in prime95 smallfft under 74-75 degrees even after, lets say 15 mins. My h100i as I have it installed now, under prime95 spikes up to 81 degrees immediately after starting smallfft test and goes up to near 88-90 degrees. Mind you, I used the AC freezer with an AS MX-4 paste and the H100i with the thermal paste that came pre-applied. How are your H100i behaving? What can I do the get at least the performance of the AC Freezer 13? It's bad to see a 50$ air cooler perform better than a 150$ water cooling kit...


Do you have Corsair Link installed and what is your pump speed reading? I had some strange behavior with my H80i when I first installed it only to find out that my mobo was trying to control the pump causing a noise and the thing to flash red on me, until I got to Windows it would go away. Go into your motherboard and turn off control for the CPU_FAN so it doesn't attempt to throttle it on you. Your temps are clearly way too high for this cooler.


----------



## devilpriest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Do you have Corsair Link installed and what is your pump speed reading? I had some strange behavior with my H80i when I first installed it only to find out that my mobo was trying to control the pump causing a noise and the thing to flash red on me, until I got to Windows it would go away. Go into your motherboard and turn off control for the CPU_FAN so it doesn't attempt to throttle it on you. Your temps are clearly way too high for this cooler.


Thanks for your reply. Yes I have Corsair link. My pump is running at 2150. I've disabled the CPU_FAN control in BIOS.

Also, if it's relevant, the fw version is 1.0.5

OK, so I've reattached the pump header to the CPU and tightened the screw as hard as I could using a screwdriver. So far the temps seem to have gone down; in prime95 i get a max of 66 degrees; i think that's an improvement. So there might have been a problem on my part, as I've read in the forums that the attaching the pump to the CPU can be sometimes tricky. Also the 1155 screws that go into the intel backplate seem to be a little loose no matter how much I tighten them. Is this also the case for you?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilpriest*
> 
> Thanks for your reply. Yes I have Corsair link. My pump is running at 2150. I've disabled the CPU_FAN control in BIOS.
> 
> Also, if it's relevant, the fw version is 1.0.5
> 
> OK, so I've reattached the pump header to the CPU and tightened the screw as hard as I could using a screwdriver. So far the temps seem to have gone down; in prime95 i get a max of 66 degrees; i think that's an improvement. So there might have been a problem on my part, as I've read in the forums that the attaching the pump to the CPU can be sometimes tricky. Also the 1155 screws that go into the intel backplate seem to be a little loose no matter how much I tighten them. Is this also the case for you?


i found out last night when i removed my h100 the screws were loose at the backplate. i think its normal. as long as your block is tightened down all the way, you should be good. make sure you check them in a week. mine backed out a little. i found this out about a month after install.


----------



## caesu

Hi all, sorry to just jump into a conversation going....Im thinking of taking the plunge with a H60 (2013) revision. I like the idea of a small form factor without clearance issues. I have to admit, Im somwhat terrified of the horror story of leaks. Is this a blown out of proportion issue? Im sure this question has been asked a million times lol....honestly though, Im fiddling my fingers over each other with the thought.


----------



## caesu

Hi all, sorry to just jump into a conversation going....Im thinking of taking the plunge with a H60 (2013) revision. I like the idea of a small form factor without clearance issues. I have to admit, Im somwhat terrified of the horror story of leaks. Is this a blown out of proportion issue? Im sure this question has been asked a million times lol....honestly though, Im fiddling my fingers over each other with the thought.


----------



## [email protected]

Ok i am finally back online now. I had to replace my case due to bad modding wiring by Frozen.Cpu. So i had no choice and went to Micro Center and bought a new case and now i am running an H100 officially.

I have questions. My CPU is mild clocked anyways due to my ram and i would like an second opinion if my temps are just normal?

I have yet tried to game anything yet. I just notice it's a little warmer. I guess it's normal for an H100.

Pics below.


----------



## Erick Silver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caesu*
> 
> Hi all, sorry to just jump into a conversation going....Im thinking of taking the plunge with a H60 (2013) revision. I like the idea of a small form factor without clearance issues. I have to admit, Im somwhat terrified of the horror story of leaks. Is this a blown out of proportion issue? Im sure this question has been asked a million times lol....honestly though, Im fiddling my fingers over each other with the thought.


The leaking issue has happened. But its not as serious an issue as you think. I have an H60 and have been running for a year now with no issues. No leaks. You will find that a majority of the owners will tell you the same. Like I mentioned before though there have been issues of leaks. Of those issues Corsair has promptly replaced the unit and any hardware that was damaged as a result of the leak. They stand by their product.


----------



## Xecutionr

Here's a pic of my set up


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> The leaking issue has happened. But its not as serious an issue as you think. I have an H60 and have been running for a year now with no issues. No leaks. You will find that a majority of the owners will tell you the same. Like I mentioned before though there have been issues of leaks. Of those issues Corsair has promptly replaced the unit and any hardware that was damaged as a result of the leak. They stand by their product.


do they replace the product or pay you the cost of a new one?


----------



## lieutenant54321

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> The leaking issue has happened. But its not as serious an issue as you think. I have an H60 and have been running for a year now with no issues. No leaks. You will find that a majority of the owners will tell you the same. Like I mentioned before though there have been issues of leaks. Of those issues Corsair has promptly replaced the unit and any hardware that was damaged as a result of the leak. They stand by their product.


Same, my H70 has been running just fine for a while now.

I think if you really twist it around and such you have a chance of it breaking at the connection of tube and block.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xecutionr*
> 
> Here's a pic of my set up


Just curious as to why you mounted the water block that way? Nice setup though, fan is a little bright for me though but to each their own.


----------



## Xecutionr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Just curious as to why you mounted the water block that way? Nice setup though, fan is a little bright for me though but to each their own.


Well I had to mount it that way because the block is a little longer on one side...

I had installed the cooler and i kept getting BSOD like freakin crazy, so I reinstalled windows.... about 5 times... until I checked the cpu and block paste...

I made a thread for other people that have bought the h60 and maybe other models too, but the block was resting on capacitors and it wouldn't seat on 3/4 of the cpu! CRAZY!!! I freaked out lol. went to staples (last resort store) and got the antec formula 7 with an antec fan for the push pull

I was getting 45 celcius on idle before this and now with rotating the block for complete connection im getting 29 celcius on idle and 35 max 100% load

my thread I made for people to know is located here -> http://www.overclock.net/t/1361306/fyi-new-corsair-h60-owners-possibly-other-models-too


----------



## King Nothing

How are we suppose to know when things things are going out. I have a H50 that I've been running since almost release date. When I turn the PC on I hear a wooshing sound for about 4 seconds. It seems like the wooshing time has gotten longer the older it is.

Idle Delta= 28c
Load Delta= 48c


----------



## pc-illiterate

4 years old then? quite probable the coolant is evaporating to the point you hear the air being pushed through the rad. got a picture of the rad mount you can post?


----------



## King Nothing

It's in P\P exhaust. I know that's the most efficient but I saw only 2 degrees drop going intake. I play alot of games and I noticed when I had it set up with intake the GPUs got hotter.


----------



## pc-illiterate

can you put it in the roof and see if the woosh goes away or if its quieter?
i assume i was right in thinking its 4 years old? i believe the warranty is 5 years. if your temps have gone up a noticable amount, i would contact corsair about an rma if you still have that option.


----------



## lordhinton

hello, im looking to buy one of these coolers but im abit short for money, how would a h40/50 cope with an i5 2500k?, would it be worth waiting a little and getting a h80i? or would they be fine?
thanks
-lordhinton


----------



## Mergatroid

An H40 or 50 would easily handle an i5 2500K. Just don't expect to get 4.5GHz out of it.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> An H40 or 50 would easily handle an i5 2500K. Just don't expect to get 4.5GHz out of it.


H40/H50 for below 4Ghz really.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lordhinton*
> 
> hello, im looking to buy one of these coolers but im abit short for money, how would a h40/50 cope with an i5 2500k?, would it be worth waiting a little and getting a h80i? or would they be fine?
> thanks
> -lordhinton


Just get a Megahalem / TRUE120.

It will be better than an H40/50/60/(maybe even 70) and you will easily be able to max out your CPU! And if you get good Push/Pull fans, you can do it quietly too!

I had a TRUE120 running my 5Ghz 2500k at below 70'c (67'c max) with 800rpm fans!


----------



## Devildog83

Just ram prime 95 for the 1st time on my rig with an H100i, FX 4100 4. Ghz and it never got above 37C. Part of it I am sure is that it's not OC'd that much plus FX chips run cool anyhow. I also have a C70 case that is cool as a cucumber. The room temp is about 25C. I usually idle at between 30 and 32 pepending on the mobo temp.


----------



## [email protected]

Why hasn't anyone responded my post anyhow?

I got a question. I seen some videos where their coolers have their ICON person lit up after the third bar? Is it supposed to do that or am i seeing it wrong? Cuz mine has three bars. Nothing more.

I know they are using a Corsair Link Controller for the cooler.

My cooler is H100 not the H100i.

Just wanted to double check if i need to download anything? I doubt i need anything installed related to the cooler but i do know i need to register the cooler for warranty purposes.


----------



## kizwan

I guess, not many has/bought Corsair Link with their H100, so not many can answer your question. I believe the "person" icon only lit up when using Corsair Link.

No need to download anything & also no need to register for warranty. Just keep the receipt for warranty purposes.


----------



## [email protected]

Thanks for the help. I had a hunch i didn't need a download or anything after research in Corsair forums lol. Rep.


----------



## mavisky

On my H100 the logo of the guy has never lit up. I only get the 3 bars.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Why hasn't anyone responded my post anyhow?
> 
> I got a question. I seen some videos where their coolers have their ICON person lit up after the third bar? Is it supposed to do that or am i seeing it wrong? Cuz mine has three bars. Nothing more.
> 
> I know they are using a Corsair Link Controller for the cooler.
> 
> My cooler is H100 not the H100i.
> 
> Just wanted to double check if i need to download anything? I doubt i need anything installed related to the cooler but i do know i need to register the cooler for warranty purposes.


There is no software required for the H100. You press the button on the block and it will increase the RPM range of the fans and change the lights on the block. There are three ranges:

Low - 900 RPM to 1300 RPM
Mid - 1300 RPM to 2000 RPM
High - 1600 RPM to 2600 RPM

Also, I can't speak for other countries, but in Canada you don't have to register to get warranty.


----------



## jktmas

the guy must be a custom profile kind of thing through corsair link with the H100i


----------



## MCCSolutions

ALL ME! TWO BUILDS. 1 H100i, 2 H70's, AND 1 H50


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> ALL ME! TWO BUILDS. 1 H100i, 2 H70's, AND 1 H50


Not sure what you've got going on (assuming GPU cooling using the H70s) but would like to see the end result of all that. Thanks for taking them apart too.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Not sure what you've got going on (assuming GPU cooling using the H70s) but would like to see the end result of all that. Thanks for taking them apart too.


Yea Im using a H50 for the Cpu on one build, H100i for cpu on another with H70's on its Gpus. I have posted these in may threads because no one else has taken apart the H100i.....


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Not sure what you've got going on (assuming GPU cooling using the H70s) but would like to see the end result of all that. Thanks for taking them apart too.


Here are the builds:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1359879/fatal-by-mccsolutions-fx-8350-crossfire-6970s-32gb-1866-full-parallel-water-cooled/20#post_19316997

http://www.overclock.net/t/1359900/scorch-build-by-mccsolutions-another-all-red-amd-build-phenom-ii-965-oc-budget-build-hd5750-red-and-pink-cathodes-thermaltake-v3-black-amd-edition/40#post_19317003


----------



## Gh0sT-NoVa

Planning to get a H80 , i was wondering , since the 2 fans will be plugging into the pump , also the pump is the one who controls the fan speed too....Low , Medium , High , can i have the 2 original swapped for some aftermarket ones ?

Will they still work if so ? I heard someone did that and the fan speed control doesn't work for him....strange...


----------



## jellybeans69

h100i cooling my i5 3570k @ 4.8-4.9 ghz under 1.4v , when folding hottest core is up to 84* C while lowest usualy around 73-74* , great improvement from evo 212.
Using it with two stock fans + two SP120's high per in pushpull.


----------



## Devildog83

I have been looking for Cougar Duak x blade BLACK fans everywhere. Does anyone know who might sell them. I do not want goofy looking LED fans, just a black fan.


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellybeans69*
> 
> h100i cooling my i5 3570k @ 4.8-4.9 ghz under 1.4v , when folding hottest core is up to 84* C while lowest usualy around 73-74* , great improvement from evo 212.
> Using it with two stock fans + two SP120's high per in pushpull.


I would call that a golden chip my friend.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gh0sT-NoVa*
> 
> Planning to get a H80 , i was wondering , since the 2 fans will be plugging into the pump , also the pump is the one who controls the fan speed too....Low , Medium , High , can i have the 2 original swapped for some aftermarket ones ?
> 
> Will they still work if so ? I heard someone did that and the fan speed control doesn't work for him....strange...


No I think that model controls the fans automatically based on the temperature, Unless your speaking of the H80i which is the newer one then you can control it manually using Corsair link.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gh0sT-NoVa*
> 
> Planning to get a H80 , i was wondering , since the 2 fans will be plugging into the pump , also the pump is the one who controls the fan speed too....Low , Medium , High , can i have the 2 original swapped for some aftermarket ones ?
> 
> Will they still work if so ? I heard someone did that and the fan speed control doesn't work for him....strange...


Yes, on the H80 you should be able to swap out the fans. I had two Scythe Slipstream 1900 RPM fans and two stock fans working on the H100 without any problems (they used the same fan controller). As I mentioned in my last post, the block will give you one of three ranges depending on what you set it to:

Low - 900 RPM to 1300 RPM
Mid - 1300 RPM to 2000 RPM
High - 1600 RPM to 2600 RPM
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> No I think that model controls the fans automatically based on the temperature, Unless your speaking of the H80i which is the newer one then you can control it manually using Corsair link.


Pardon? The H80 will work with other fans, just like the H100 will.

The H80i may have problems with other fans and requires some experimentation to find fans that will work properly. The H80 didn't have that issue.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Yes, on the H80 you should be able to swap out the fans. I had two Scythe Slipstream 1900 RPM fans and two stock fans working on the H100 without any problems (they used the same fan controller). As I mentioned in my last post, the block will give you one of three ranges depending on what you set it to:
> 
> Low - 900 RPM to 1300 RPM
> Mid - 1300 RPM to 2000 RPM
> High - 1600 RPM to 2600 RPM
> Pardon? The H80 will work with other fans, just like the H100 will.
> 
> The H80i may have problems with other fans and requires some experimentation to find fans that will work properly. The H80 didn't have that issue.


I was not speaking of the fact that other fans could or could not be used with it, I was speaking of being able to control the fans. It is one of the few models that I have not owned or tested but It was an educated assumption, I stand somewhat corrected thanks!


----------



## jellybeans69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> I would call that a golden chip my friend.


Chip itself is quite hot like other ivy's and needs big bumps anything over that, even though i did 2d bench @ 5.2 using evo 212.


----------



## [email protected]

Guys i can't decide which cooler to pick. I am upgrading to Ivy Bridge and i5 3570k and NO i am not going to extreme overclock it. I just want it XMP set and left alone. I'm not overclocking extreme because i want a computer to last more than 5 years for me.

Getting a Ivy bridge too.

So should i get H100? H110? H80?

Not sure if i should get the newest ones. Just want a working cooler and easy installation.

Advice?

Actually i have decided to get the H100I. I hope to god this is a working cooler.

I spent all week fixing computer problems and it turns out my motherboard is 3 years on the verge of dying and i have 1 more year left warranty on my GPU.

I figured it was time to upgrade.


----------



## NorKris

u can run a h100i/h80i without the software just fine right(usb cable)? my mobo has just got 2 internal usb headers


----------



## jellybeans69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> u can run a h100i/h80i without the software just fine right(usb cable)? my mobo has just got 2 internal usb headers


Exactly i run my h100i on ubuntu machine for folding, fans are just connected to mobo headers.


----------



## [email protected]

Is software required if you install H100i? I got one on the way with my new ivy bridge build. I can't wait to use it.

And no i don't intend to overclock hardcore. Rather have a stable system for 5 years









Add me to the list once i take pictures. However though i do own H100 right now for the first time on my current old build but unfortunately my pc crashes after playing BF3 and reboots itself.

Honestly i think my mobo doesn't like XMP overclock settings anymore or something not sure. Or it could be a dying video card.

At least i still have one year warranty on my card in case the same thing happens on my new build then i can get it replaced. But my card is fine and why am i browsing ok for hours? It only crashes after playing PC games. Got to be my motherboard or video switching back to 2d to 3d or something. I even checked power management saving on NV control panel but it looks fine. Meh only i will find out when i install my Ivy this weekend.


----------



## pc-illiterate

why do people say xmp overclock settings? an xmp profile only sets the ram at factory specs, correct?


----------



## drserk

hi everyone
i want to try another thermal compund except h80i original thermal compound. so i bought coollaboratory luquid ultra. i tested it when i applied at first. it is wrotten that luquid ultra compound would perform maximum after ~5 days. so these tests are at first day. i will test again after 1 week.

h80i original thermal compound & Coollaboratory Luquid Ultra

H80i original thermal compound - LOAD temperatures (room temperature is 28 C)
http://****/c25MCx][/url]
[link]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1302170/[/link]

H80i with Coollaboratory Luquid Ultra - LOAD temperatures (room temperature is 28 C)
http://****/c25MCx][/url]
[link]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1302171/[/link]

max temperatures;
...............................H80i original ..............Luquid ultra
system...........................31..................................30
cpu ...............................43................................. 42
core 1............................58..................................57
core 2............................62..................................60
core 3............................63..................................63
core 4............................65..................................66


----------



## Mergatroid

@[email protected]

Look at the post directly above yours.

@ drserk

Thanks for posting the comparison for us. I'm sure a lot of people are curious about metal TIMs.


----------



## justanoldman

Gaining a degree with CL Ultra does not make sense, the temps are not going to change much after you apply it. Most people are unfamiliar with these types of TIM and apply it incorrectly. There is a video on the manufacturer's website.

You only need a very small amount, and it needs to be very carefully painted on the surface with the included brush. Both the IHS and cooler have to be completely clean before application.

I am guessing he used too much, or his installation of the cooler was less than ideal. To be fair though, it is not like any TIM will magically get you many degrees. I have used Ultra a number of times and found it to be about 5c better than AS5, so while it is better it is not going to make a huge difference unless you use it on the die of your delidded Ivy chip.

Ultra and Pro also leave a stain after application, and it takes a lot of work to remove it. Therefore I would not recommend people use them unless they do some research and understand how to use them.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Is software required if you install H100i? I got one on the way with my new ivy bridge build. I can't wait to use it.
> 
> And no i don't intend to overclock hardcore. Rather have a stable system for 5 years
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add me to the list once i take pictures. However though i do own H100 right now for the first time on my current old build but unfortunately my pc crashes after playing BF3 and reboots itself.
> 
> Honestly i think my mobo doesn't like XMP overclock settings anymore or something not sure. Or it could be a dying video card.
> 
> At least i still have one year warranty on my card in case the same thing happens on my new build then i can get it replaced. But my card is fine and why am i browsing ok for hours? It only crashes after playing PC games. Got to be my motherboard or video switching back to 2d to 3d or something. I even checked power management saving on NV control panel but it looks fine. Meh only i will find out when i install my Ivy this weekend.


NOPE







It is capable of running intapendently and will adjust its speed automatically based on tempature however I suggest using the Corsair Link software.


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> NOPE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is capable of running intapendently and will adjust its speed automatically based on tempature however I suggest using the Corsair Link software.


Nicely said, +1REP


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> NOPE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is capable of running intapendently and will adjust its speed automatically based on tempature however I suggest using the Corsair Link software.


Okay..


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Okay..


Hope it was helpful I have alot more info, I have completely disassembled the H100i and its impressive. Let me know if you need any thing else........


----------



## drserk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> .


i have cleaned both cpu and h80i block surface. both surface looked like mirror before applying metal TIM. and i think i didnt use and apply more than normal compound. but it is right that it was very very hard to spread TIM on cpu with that brush. i will test with prime 95 after 3-4 days because many users wrote that they had decreasing more than 5 celcius after ~5 days. thanks for your advices. i will re-check all issues you said.


----------



## devilpriest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drserk*
> 
> i have cleaned both cpu and h80i block surface. both surface looked like mirror before applying metal TIM. and i think i didnt use and apply more than normal compound. but it is right that it was very very hard to spread TIM on cpu with that brush. i will test with prime 95 after 3-4 days because many users wrote that they had decreasing more than 5 celcius after ~5 days. thanks for your advices. i will re-check all issues you said.


It all depends on the TIM you use. Some of them don't need time or some heating-cooling cycles to get to their full performance, like the MX-4.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilpriest*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *drserk*
> 
> i have cleaned both cpu and h80i block surface. both surface looked like mirror before applying metal TIM. and i think i didnt use and apply more than normal compound. but it is right that it was very very hard to spread TIM on cpu with that brush. i will test with prime 95 after 3-4 days because many users wrote that they had decreasing more than 5 celcius after ~5 days. thanks for your advices. i will re-check all issues you said.
> 
> 
> 
> It all depends on the TIM you use. Some of them don't need time or some heating-cooling cycles to get to their full performance, like the MX-4.
Click to expand...

WIth TIM like AS5 you need about 200 hours of curing time. That means you want to get things heated up and then let them idle for awhile. It takes about a week to get it to finish and then whatever your temps are at that point are what they'll be during the current application. One thing to keep in mind is you may not want to OC much during this curing time, but to each their own on their comfort level.


----------



## caesu

Can anyone let me know if I can use different fans with the Corsair H80i and if they are 3 pin fans, how that would effect the Corsair Link software program?

What can or wouldnt be controlled if at all?

thanks!


----------



## devilpriest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caesu*
> 
> Can anyone let me know if I can use different fans with the Corsair H80i and if they are 3 pin fans, how that would effect the Corsair Link software program?
> 
> What can or wouldnt be controlled if at all?
> 
> thanks!


I am using 3-pin Scythe fans on my h100i and I can control the speed and everything. I guess your h80i should behave the same.


----------



## NorKris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caesu*
> 
> Can anyone let me know if I can use different fans with the Corsair H80i and if they are 3 pin fans, how that would effect the Corsair Link software program?
> 
> What can or wouldnt be controlled if at all?
> 
> thanks!


ofc it can... its just a normal 3pin.. every thing that has a 3pin u can connect there


----------



## hulkish

Anybody know if the H110 will fit in the thermaltake level 10 GT?


----------



## HiCZoK

Which of the closed loops would be enough to run my 2500k at 4.5 or higher if possible with rpm below 1500 ?

I now have some towery air cooler (looks similiar to hyper 212 but its not branded) and I get 70C in heavy stress on 4.2ghz and I am looking to get something better and water closed loops are very popular. Especially h60 or antec ones

any tips or recommendations ?


----------



## Gardnerphotos

I have had the H60 for a while now and all of a sudden this evening I was rendering a video and then the pump (in the water block) started making a really loud ticking noise, it sounded like a cable hitting a fan but I checked every fan by stopping it with my finger and seeing whether the sound stopped, yet despite trying every fan the noise still continued and if I put my ear next to the block you can tell it is coming from there. Even with the side panel on it is audible over my 7 case fans. What should I do about it, is the pump bust?

I have only had the unit for 4 months so I would be pretty disappointed if it had died already.

Thanks


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> Which of the closed loops would be enough to run my 2500k at 4.5 or higher if possible with rpm below 1500 ?
> 
> I now have some towery air cooler (looks similiar to hyper 212 but its not branded) and I get 70C in heavy stress on 4.2ghz and I am looking to get something better and water closed loops are very popular. Especially h60 or antec ones
> 
> any tips or recommendations ?


1500rpm? h100/h100i or better yet, the swiftech h220 when its released. i have/had an h100 and changed the fans right away to quieter bgears blasters. i ran them about 1800rpm and stayed about 63*C core temps in prime95 with ambients of 20-21*C i think.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> I have had the H60 for a while now and all of a sudden this evening I was rendering a video and then the pump (in the water block) started making a really loud ticking noise, it sounded like a cable hitting a fan but I checked every fan by stopping it with my finger and seeing whether the sound stopped, yet despite trying every fan the noise still continued and if I put my ear next to the block you can tell it is coming from there. Even with the side panel on it is audible over my 7 case fans. What should I do about it, is the pump bust?
> 
> I have only had the unit for 4 months so I would be pretty disappointed if it had died already.
> 
> Thanks


did you try tapping the block pump? if you cant get it stop that way, contact corsair about an rma. how many fans are plugged into the h70 controller? the h100 had problems, hence the recall, when more than 2 fans were controlled. though that wasnt the only problem. it was also the impeller shaft tolerances. bad qc on the manufacturer i believe.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> 1500rpm? h100/h100i or better yet, the swiftech h220 when its released. i have/had an h100 and changed the fans right away to quieter bgears blasters. i ran them about 1800rpm and stayed about 65*C core temps with ambients of 20-21*C i think.
> did you try tapping the block pump? if you cant get it stop that way, contact corsair about an rma. how many fans are plugged into the h70 controller? the h100 had problems, hence the recall, when more than 2 fans were controlled. though that wasnt the only problem. it was also the impeller shaft tolerances. bad qc on the manufacturer i believe.


I haven't tried that yet, will do in the morning. What controller? I have two Bitfenix Spectre Pros running of molex undervolted.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilpriest*
> 
> It all depends on the TIM you use. Some of them don't need time or some heating-cooling cycles to get to their full performance, like the MX-4.


Yes, he is talking about Liquid Ultra, which requires some time before getting its best temps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caesu*
> 
> Can anyone let me know if I can use different fans with the Corsair H80i and if they are 3 pin fans, how that would effect the Corsair Link software program?
> 
> What can or wouldnt be controlled if at all?
> 
> thanks!


If you go to the Corsair website and check their forums, you will see that people are having problems getting other fans to work with the H80i. Some people have had no problem, and others can't get any fans except the stock fans to work. I suggest you check Corsair's site and see if you can find which fans do work and which fans don't.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilpriest*
> 
> I am using 3-pin Scythe fans on my h100i and I can control the speed and everything. I guess your h80i should behave the same.


Nice to see the Scythe fans working. They make pretty nice fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> ofc it can... its just a normal 3pin.. every thing that has a 3pin u can connect there


No, not all fans will work. Suggest you also go to the Corsair forums and read up on it before telling people any 3-pin fans will work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hulkish*
> 
> Anybody know if the H110 will fit in the thermaltake level 10 GT?


Go ask here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1144409/h80-h80i-h90-h100-h100i-h110-case-compatibility-thread-page-1-for-full-listings/620#post_19351855

That's the case compatibility thread for Corsair coolers. However, the H110 is so new you may be the first person to try it in a Level 10 GT.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> Which of the closed loops would be enough to run my 2500k at 4.5 or higher if possible with rpm below 1500 ?
> 
> I now have some towery air cooler (looks similiar to hyper 212 but its not branded) and I get 70C in heavy stress on 4.2ghz and I am looking to get something better and water closed loops are very popular. Especially h60 or antec ones
> 
> any tips or recommendations ?


I have a 2500K, and I'm using an H100. Under Intel Burn Test (which really tortures the CPU) my CPU can hit about 70c~71c after a half hour test. I'm running my CPU at 4.3GHz with no over volts. If you want 4.5GHz, you're going to need an H100i or H110 (which is a 140mm cooler, make sure it will fit in your case). You're not going to do it with an H60.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> I have had the H60 for a while now and all of a sudden this evening I was rendering a video and then the pump (in the water block) started making a really loud ticking noise, it sounded like a cable hitting a fan but I checked every fan by stopping it with my finger and seeing whether the sound stopped, yet despite trying every fan the noise still continued and if I put my ear next to the block you can tell it is coming from there. Even with the side panel on it is audible over my 7 case fans. What should I do about it, is the pump bust?
> 
> I have only had the unit for 4 months so I would be pretty disappointed if it had died already.
> 
> Thanks


How is it installed? If the pump is higher than the rad, try unbolting the rad and holding it higher to see if the noise goes away. If it does, then there was likely just some trapped air in the pump. If it stays the same, I would think about RMAing it.

Did your temps go up? If so, then I would document it and then contact Corsair to arrange an RMA.


----------



## HiCZoK

Not impressed then... 70C with h100?
I am getting 70C on 4.3 with this at 1100rpm. I thought I can benefit much more from going from this not well known brand air to water


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## someonewhy

Guys i just bought H100i yesterday but can anyone tell me how do i get the best performance from it?i mean i want to get the lowest temps with it on my 3930k..
i downloaded corsair link but there are tons of options i dont know what to change

fans are set to Performance and the pump is set to Two.


----------



## devilpriest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> Not impressed then... 70C with h100?
> I am getting 70C on 4.3 with this at 1100rpm. I thought I can benefit much more from going from this not well known brand air to water
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


maybe you didn't instal it correctly; i had the same issue at firs, I was getting the same temps I was getting with my previous air cooler AC Freezer 13, but i re-mounted my H100i and now I get 50c instead of 70c.


----------



## NorKris

its a 3pin, 12v ground, and RPM controller... corsair says alot for bull, i asked them if a 92mm red led will work.. they said no.... did it, ohyes


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> How is it installed? If the pump is higher than the rad, try unbolting the rad and holding it higher to see if the noise goes away. If it does, then there was likely just some trapped air in the pump. If it stays the same, I would think about RMAing it.
> 
> Did your temps go up? If so, then I would document it and then contact Corsair to arrange an RMA.


Yes temps went up to 90 degrees when rendering a vid (highest I have seen before is around 60) makes me think it isn't pumping right


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Just tried moving the rad above the pump and it made no difference so I guess I need to talk to Corsair

Does anyone know how long Corsair take to replace an RMA'd item, as I will be without my computer for this time?


----------



## devilpriest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Just tried moving the rad above the pump and it made no difference so I guess I need to talk to Corsair
> 
> Does anyone know how long Corsair take to replace an RMA'd item, as I will be without my computer for this time?


For me it took about 5 days, including shipping, and I'm from Romania. They received my unit on one day at about 17:00 and they shipped the replacement the other day.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Just tried moving the rad above the pump and it made no difference so I guess I need to talk to Corsair
> 
> Does anyone know how long Corsair take to replace an RMA'd item, as I will be without my computer for this time?


Go the corsair forums and open a new thread. Im sure it will take no time at all for the customer support rep to respond. He WILL help get the rma going as quick as possible. It shouldnt take long to get processed either.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> No, not all fans will work. Suggest you also go to the Corsair forums and read up on it before telling people any 3-pin fans will work.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> its a 3pin, 12v ground, and RPM controller... corsair says alot for bull, i asked them if a 92mm red led will work.. they said no.... did it, ohyes


I think you misunderstand what Megatroid trying to say. This is one example of an issue encountered by a customer using fans other than stock:-
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?p=633550

The issue is user can't control the fan speed if the fans connected to H80i.


----------



## CrazyCorky

I recently installed my H80i into my Zalman Z11 Plus case. The problem I'm having is that my temps are still running higher than when I had my CoolerMaster hyper 212 plus installed?

I'm using the MSI MPower Z77 board with 3770k OC'd to 4.2 like it was with the aircooler. I tried mounting the cooler on top but due to the heatsinks on the board I was unable to have enough room to do so.

Any other thoughts?


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCorky*
> 
> I recently installed my H80i into my Zalman Z11 Plus case. The problem I'm having is that my temps are still running higher than when I had my CoolerMaster hyper 212 plus installed?
> 
> I'm using the MSI MPower Z77 board with 3770k OC'd to 4.2 like it was with the aircooler. I tried mounting the cooler on top but due to the heatsinks on the board I was unable to have enough room to do so.
> 
> Any other thoughts?


I got the same case, i have my H60 in push pull exhausting out the bottom, but if you dont have anything in your 5.25" bays then there is room to mount it in there, there is a filter on the slot covers and the actual metal plates which are screwed on the front are perfect spacing for a fan, currently have an intake there but if you wanted you could remove the mesh material in the bay covers and use it as an exhaust, it is also close enough to the cpu for the pipes to reach


----------



## CrazyCorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> I got the same case, i have my H60 in push pull exhausting out the bottom, but if you dont have anything in your 5.25" bays then there is room to mount it in there, there is a filter on the slot covers and the actual metal plates which are screwed on the front are perfect spacing for a fan, currently have an intake there but if you wanted you could remove the mesh material in the bay covers and use it as an exhaust, it is also close enough to the cpu for the pipes to reach


Can you take a picture to show me?


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCorky*
> 
> Can you take a picture to show me?








Hope this helps


----------



## CrazyCorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps


Yea. I guess I will just have mess around with it. Although I might be switching cases now that I decided I want an Asus ROG board.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCorky*
> 
> Yea. I guess I will just have mess around with it. Although I might be switching cases now that I decided I want an Asus ROG board.


Same Im switching to a prodigy







and Im gonna try a custom loop


----------



## par

hi guys,

do you know if exist some tests where H100i is compared with a big air cooling heatsink (like Noctua NH-D14 or others similars) at same fans dB ?

or even, a test with the same fans at the same rpm on H100i and NH-D14?

thnxx


----------



## PedroC1999

Hello people, A while back you might have seen my post that says I was getting a H60, well bufget has changed and now im getting a H100i, just asking if a H100i could handle a [email protected] with reasonable voltages?


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedroc1999*
> 
> Hello people, A while back you might have seen my post that says I was getting a H60, well bufget has changed and now im getting a H100i, just asking if a H100i could handle a [email protected] with reasonable voltages?


honestly i hate to say this, and i have an H80, but you can get a custom WC setup that will cool better for like $190


----------



## PedroC1999

Its more expensive to set up where I am since there isnt no 'Watercooling' shops down town etc, Will it cool it well?


----------



## pc-illiterate

swiftech is releasing the h220 at the end of this month. it retails for $140 and can be expanded into a full blown water loop. it should be available anywhere YOU shop soon.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *par*
> 
> hi guys,
> do you know if exist some tests where H100i is compared with a big air cooling heatsink (like Noctua NH-D14 or others similars) at same fans dB ?
> or even, a test with the same fans at the same rpm on H100i and NH-D14?
> thnxx


No, or at least not yet, I like to read reviews, lots of them and then critique them if need be








Many of us have asked your question, and I believe what your looking for is "Real World" results in Performance vs Noise vs $$$ ... Eureka OCN







... I use to own a D-14 and switched to a H100 well over a year ago. At that time there was appx a $20 difference, for me $$$ well spent as now I can easily access my motherboard/ram AND as a bonus, something the "Air" guys seem to conveniently forget to mention, *my entire system*, including Mobo/GPU etc all run 3c-4c cooler! On average with a top exhaust bastardized push/pull setup (stock H100 fans push/CM 200mm fan pull), with an average OC of 4.6GHz [P95 60c-63c load temps @ 21c ambients]. My H100 setup achieves this on the "Low" setting, 120mm fans running @appx 1300rpm. In a real world environment, it is no louder than my D-14 was and I'm moderately sensitive to dB noise. Even the medium/balanced setting (2000rpm) is tolerable but only gains 1c-2c in performance. And the High/performance setting (2500rpm) is unacceptable noise level for me 24/7 and only gives me a 4c-5c boost @ Full Loads. Additionaly in your inquiry you can expect on average a 3c-4c gain in the H100i vs the H100 both stock, and the H100i fans should be quieter depending on your setting.

With current Newegg prices D-14 $90 / H100i rebate $100 / and what? H100 rebate $115 it's a "No-Brainer".
I loved my D-14 but I'd NEVER go back








Unfortunately you don't list your case, but even with simple modding, the H110 @ $120 may be in your future?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedroc1999*
> 
> Hello people, A while back you might have seen my post that says I was getting a H60, well bufget has changed and now im getting a H100i, just asking if a H100i could handle a [email protected] with reasonable voltages?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pedroc1999*
> 
> Its more expensive to set up where I am since there isnt no 'Watercooling' shops down town etc, Will it cool it well?
Click to expand...

Depends on your chip and voltage and case setup, and ambients ... 24/7 use/applications etc etc







.... Even though the FX series chips tend to run "relatively?" cooler than it's Intel counterpart @5.0GHz... all bets are off and an H100i IMO is cutting it to close for comfort, *for a 24/7 operation?* To leave no doubt about maximizing your chips OC potential you'd have to go with a custom loop if your lucky enough to get a "Golden" chip in the 1st place. NOT all chips OC the same no matter how good your cooling is. But lets get back to your reality ... if occasional benching is your reality then an H100i might fit your goals. BUT I'd take a serious look at the H110 especially with their price drops! It's a no frill top performer see *HERE* ... it's $20 cheaper than the Kraken X60 and the Swiftech H220 ...
I really like the H220 also (more favorable review *HERE* ), copper rad, it's a bit quieter depending on your setup, BUT are you really going to expand into the custom loop world??? The 1st thing you'll do besides extra maintenance is replace the crappy barbs with compression fittings! ... and the costs just keep going up from there ... bigger rads better fans etc etc ... why not just go "Custom Loop" 360 rad etc in the 1st place









Your in the same 'ol "classic" delima







... I Hope this helps somewhat


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *par*
> 
> hi guys,
> 
> do you know if exist some tests where H100i is compared with a big air cooling heatsink (like Noctua NH-D14 or others similars) at same fans dB ?
> 
> or even, a test with the same fans at the same rpm on H100i and NH-D14?
> 
> thnxx


How about a test about the H100 vs some air coolers as fanless and using the CM Blademaster?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1322094/corsair-h100-vs-phanteks-ph-tc14pe-vs-therlmalright-macho-user-review

Enjoy.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caesu*
> 
> Can anyone let me know if I can use different fans with the Corsair H80i and if they are 3 pin fans, how that would effect the Corsair Link software program?
> 
> What can or wouldnt be controlled if at all?
> 
> thanks!


Yes just about any fan should work, and they are three pin! And will still work fine with corsair link software:thumb:.....


----------



## mikemartinco

I'm in...
h60 on gpu
h100 on cpu


----------



## HiCZoK

Which one oh H series would be better than HR-02 Macho ? I found a good price on it. It seems like good cooling but its HHUUUUUGE


----------



## NorKris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemartinco*
> 
> I'm in...
> h60 on gpu
> h100 on cpu


niiice







u forgot one thing... temps plz ^^ (and OC specs)


----------



## GoneTurbo

Anybody know the H100i tube size for Anti-Kink coils?

Also, where to buy?

(I'm new to this







)


----------



## PedroC1999

So guys... Ive just ordered the H100i two minutes ago and ive added myself to the new owners list. Just to let u all know


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *par*
> 
> hi guys,
> 
> do you know if exist some tests where H100i is compared with a big air cooling heatsink (like Noctua NH-D14 or others similars) at same fans dB ?
> 
> or even, a test with the same fans at the same rpm on H100i and NH-D14?
> 
> thnxx


Linus did one a couple of months ago


----------



## NorKris

and H100i won... and same goes for h100..
top cooler now for his testing is the H100 (with the corsair fans at max)

all the other coolers had noctua fans on them, (thats why the H100i is leading)


----------



## par

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> My H100 setup achieves this on the "Low" setting, 120mm fans running @appx 1300rpm. In a real world environment, it is no louder than my D-14 was and I'm moderately sensitive to dB noise. Even the medium/balanced setting (2000rpm) is tolerable but only gains 1c-2c in performance. And the High/performance setting (2500rpm) is unacceptable noise level for me 24/7 and only gives me a 4c-5c boost @ Full Loads.


generally for me, for my needs, 1200 rpm or max 1500, is high.. over 1500 rpm for me start the rpm range about oc-bench session..

I'm extremely sensitive to dB noise..








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> How about a test about the H100 vs some air coolers as fanless and using the CM Blademaster?
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1322094/corsair-h100-vs-phanteks-ph-tc14pe-vs-therlmalright-macho-user-review
> 
> Enjoy.


nice, thnx








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Linus did one a couple of months ago


I don't find.. link pls?


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoneTurbo*
> 
> Anybody know the H100i tube size for Anti-Kink coils?
> 
> Also, where to buy?
> 
> (I'm new to this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Yea sure the measurements are 1/4 ID and 3/8 ID. They look big but the rubber hose is only 1/4 ID.....


----------



## NorKris

would u guys expect the old H60 to be 14-20c higher then the H80i?

got 47c with the h80i

and H60 got 63-67c plus sound of water or bobles runing around in the loop or somthing... : /

does that mean the pump is bad or is the temp diff normal / ok ?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *par*
> 
> generally for me, for my needs, 1200 rpm or max 1500, is high.. over 1500 rpm for me start the rpm range about oc-bench session..
> 
> I'm extremely sensitive to dB noise..


Well I'm still not clear on exactly what you're looking for, but if you don't need the access to your mobo like I mentioned earlier, I think you would not be dissapointed with the D-14 for $$$/Performance/noise value. BUT if you want a better performer for benching and a cleaner case, you could swap fans and run the Gentle Typhoon AP-12 800rpm (9 dBA) / AP-13 1150rpm (16 dBA) or the AP-14 @1450rpm (21 dBA) but your benching performance will suffer








Sooo maybe for you the traditional AP-15's 1850rpm (28dBA) undervolted to the AP-14 specs for everyday use AND the ability to change to normal specs for benching might be the way to go ...

Some discussion on it *HERE*

GT AP-XX specs *HERE*

Sorry I wasn't more helpful ...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> How about a test about the H100 vs some air coolers as fanless and using the CM Blademaster?
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1322094/corsair-h100-vs-phanteks-ph-tc14pe-vs-therlmalright-macho-user-review
> 
> Enjoy.


Awesome ... and a very well done "Real World" review ... +R for you and the link









Good real world argument/info even w/different fans for what I found in my own testing and have said all along IMHO ...
That the H100 benifits most in a "PUSH" configuration and Push/Pull is overkill ...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> would u guys expect the old H60 to be 14-20c higher then the H80i?
> got 47c with the h80i
> and H60 got 63-67c plus sound of water or bobles runing around in the loop or somthing... : /
> does that mean the pump is bad or is the temp diff normal / ok ?


No, even with the 1st gen H60 ... not sure how your testing, but assuming it's P95 load @ 4.8GHZ (1.35v-1.4v vCore?) the figures should be closer to 8c-12c difference ... I think you have a bad pump or too much air in your system ... did you try laying the case on it's side (mobo horizontal w/ rad above the pump?) if no improvement ... RMA time









2700K overclocked to 4.4GHz @ *1.4V* [small FFTs in Prime95]



Full article *HERE*


----------



## braindrain

I've been considering the Blade Masters as replacement fans for my H100i for awhile. Looks like they are a good option. Hope the noise isn't too bad.


----------



## NorKris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Well I'm still not clear on exactly what you're looking for, but if you don't need the access to your mobo like I mentioned earlier, I think you would not be dissapointed with the D-14 for $$$/Performance/noise value. BUT if you want a better performer for benching and a cleaner case, you could swap fans and run the Gentle Typhoon AP-12 800rpm (9 dBA) / AP-13 1150rpm (16 dBA) or the AP-14 @1450rpm (21 dBA) but your benching performance will suffer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sooo maybe for you the traditional AP-15's 1850rpm (28dBA) undervolted to the AP-14 specs for everyday use AND the ability to change to normal specs for benching might be the way to go ...
> Some discussion on it *HERE*
> GT AP-XX specs *HERE*
> Sorry I wasn't more helpful ...
> Awesome ... and a very well done "Real World" review ... +R for you and the link
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, even with the 1st gen H60 ... not sure how your testing, but assuming it's P95 load @ 4.8GHZ (1.35v-1.4v vCore?) the figures should be closer to 8c-12c difference ... I think you have a bad pump or too much air in your system ... did you try laying the case on it's side (mobo horizontal w/ rad above the pump?) if no improvement ... RMA time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2700K overclocked to 4.4GHz @ *1.4V* [small FFTs in Prime95]
> 
> 
> 
> Full article *HERE*


testet it on a OC'd GTX 680







is it posible for air to get into the closed loop over time :S cuz air might be the thing here o:


----------



## mikemartinco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> niiice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> u forgot one thing... temps plz ^^ (and OC specs)


cpu amd 8120 OC @4.4ghz ram 1600
cpu load 54C
gpu asus dcuii 570
gpu load 56C


----------



## NorKris

and TomcatV, the test u got there saying H80i beats the H100i.. noooo way even the h100 beats it (h80i)


----------



## par

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Well I'm still not clear on exactly what you're looking for, but if you don't need the access to your mobo like I mentioned earlier, I think you would not be dissapointed with the D-14 for $$$/Performance/noise value. BUT if you want a better performer for benching and a cleaner case, you could swap fans and run the Gentle Typhoon AP-12 800rpm (9 dBA) / AP-13 1150rpm (16 dBA) or the AP-14 @1450rpm (21 dBA) but your benching performance will suffer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sooo maybe for you the traditional AP-15's 1850rpm (28dBA) undervolted to the AP-14 specs for everyday use AND the ability to change to normal specs for benching might be the way to go ...
> 
> Some discussion on it *HERE*
> 
> GT AP-XX specs *HERE*
> 
> *Sorry I wasn't more helpful ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


hey mate, all the answers are always helpful







thank you!!


----------



## spenzalii

Hey guys. I just finished up my build over the weekend. I took the stock fans on my H80i off and replaced them with a set of SP120 quiet series fans out of supposed quality upgrade (i do like the rubber dampers on the corners the stocl fans are missing) and vanity (trim rings FTW!). However, I noticed that the CorsairLink2 doesn't seem to sontrol the fans anymore. They read at a constant RPM, which will not change, no matter what setting I have the fans at. Any clue what could be wonky, or would I have to revert back to the stock fans? I figured since I was replacing a Corsair with a Corsair there shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## PedroC1999

Can the CorsairLink software control other fans apart from their own that come with it? Just wondering see


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindrain*
> 
> I've been considering the Blade Masters as replacement fans for my H100i for awhile. Looks like they are a good option. Hope the noise isn't too bad.


the enermax magmas are better.
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/9652/fantable124.png

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> testet it on a OC'd GTX 680
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is it posible for air to get into the closed loop over time :S cuz air might be the thing here o:


the coolant does evaporate. thats why corsair went with thicker tubes this time. too many rmas from broken tubes combined with evaporation.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Awesome ... and a very well done "Real World" review ... +R for you and the link
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good real world argument/info even w/different fans for what I found in my own testing and have said all along IMHO ...
> That the H100 benifits most in a "PUSH" configuration and Push/Pull is overkill ...


You're welcome.


----------



## Devildog83

Try unplugging the usb plug for a minute. If that doesn't work uninstall and reinstall the link 2.2.0. My Red LED stopped working until I reinstalled.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spenzalii*
> 
> Hey guys. I just finished up my build over the weekend. I took the stock fans on my H80i off and replaced them with a set of SP120 quiet series fans out of supposed quality upgrade (i do like the rubber dampers on the corners the stocl fans are missing) and vanity (trim rings FTW!). However, I noticed that the CorsairLink2 doesn't seem to sontrol the fans anymore. They read at a constant RPM, which will not change, no matter what setting I have the fans at. Any clue what could be wonky, or would I have to revert back to the stock fans? I figured since I was replacing a Corsair with a Corsair there shouldn't be a problem.


I don't think the quiets will work but the performance should.


----------



## mwl5apv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I don't think the quiets will work but the performance should.


I would also double check, but aren't the fans that come with the H80i and H100i 4-pin pwm fans? As far as I know the corsair SP and AF series fans are all standard 3-pin(mine are at least)


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwl5apv*
> 
> I would also double check, but aren't the fans that come with the H80i and H100i 4-pin pwm fans? As far as I know the corsair SP and AF series fans are all standard 3-pin(mine are at least)


No the are 3 pin. At least with the H100i that I have.


----------



## devilpriest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> No the are 3 pin. At least with the H100i that I have.


The new fans that come with the H100i are 4-pin fans; this started in December.


----------



## braindrain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> the enermax magmas are better.
> http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/9652/fantable124.png


The Enermax Magamas might be better fans but as they aren't available in this country they actually a bad option.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilpriest*
> 
> The new fans that come with the H100i are 4-pin fans; this started in December.


That's nice of them. Still the point is if the fans that came with mine are 3 pin sp's and they are adjustable then so should the SP 120 performance fans from anywhere else should be too right?


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Awesome ... and a very well done "Real World" review ... +R for you and the link
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good real world argument/info even w/different fans for what I found in my own testing and have said all along IMHO ...
> That the H100 benifits most in a "PUSH" configuration and Push/Pull is overkill ...
> 
> 
> 
> You're welcome.
Click to expand...

push = pull really in terms of performance.

and pull is easier for dust management.


----------



## PedroC1999

Could a H100i cool a FX 6300 @ Stock passivly (Ie no fans connected?)


----------



## mavisky

I don't see how. My H80 with the fans set to low on my fan controller and overclocked easily hit 65c. Maybe underclocked and undervolted it may, but the H100 radiator is pretty thin and with out some decent airflow in the case I don't see how it could. Just run the fans on their lowest setting and it won't be very loud at all.


----------



## PedroC1999

Thanks


----------



## CrazyCorky

All I have is the H80i and I want to know what your guys' take is on the best way to have it mounted? And where? I have the Zalman Z11 case and it just seems like I'm losing a lot with having it mounted on the back.


----------



## ivoryg37

I've seen people mod the regular h100 but has anyone nodded an h100i into a custom loop? I'm thinking about doing it if I can figure out what the tube sizing is


----------



## PedroC1999

It is in the OP, it is under the 'Spoiler' warning


----------



## PedroC1999

Hey guys, one last question... What fans are compaitabkle with corsair link apart from the included ones, Thanks in advanced


----------



## ivoryg37

The only thing under spoiler is about the original hydro series with the thinner tubing. I'm talking about the h100i tubing size


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> and TomcatV, the test u got there saying H80i beats the H100i.. noooo way even the h100 beats it (h80i)


Yea I saw that to ... doesn't make sense







... but I still stand by my 8c-12c difference (H80i vs H60) from experience.

There is a whole "stink" about Dustins review *HERE* but he's been pretty reliable in the past so take it with a grain of salt?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> push = pull really in terms of performance.
> and pull is easier for dust management.


Guess it depends on your definition of "Performance"







... I humbly disagree








For my setup/OC/load/ambients, if I switched my fans to "pull" I'd have to at least run them on medium to match the perfromance I get on a "low" setting in "push" ... Which is an audible difference in "Noise" for me ...

And his "Dust (cat hair?) Problem" ... Wow that must be a "Top Intake" setup ... another reason I advocate a "Top Exhaust" ... I even live in the dusty desert and in a friends system that he neglected for over a year I never saw anything like that, with my system or anyone elses I've set up as an "Exhaust" ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedroc1999*
> 
> Could a H100i cool a FX 6300 @ Stock passivly (Ie no fans connected?)


Interesting idea? ... All depends on your loads/ambient temps and most importantly your original case circulation ... it may just work especially for stock clocks and if the rad is mounted in the top of the case w/ (2)120mm-140mm fan vents and very important that you have a "positive pressure" with your case flow/circulation setup (maybe reverse your rear exhaust fan to intake?). ...
Let us know, might as well try it!

But seriously, I agree with Mavisky... just run them on low and with a proper case fan setup, I bet the loudest noise will be from your pumps "hum" ... or replace the fans with some cheaper low rpm fans like I suggested to "Par" AP-13 or AP-14's?


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedroc1999*
> 
> Hey guys, one last question... What fans are compaitabkle with corsair link apart from the included ones, Thanks in advanced


Anyone?

I dont want to replace with non-corsair fans since I want the Corsair Link, Will also think of ponying up some money for the Commander and Lightning kit as it looks very good in my eyes.
Will give it a try to lower the fans as lowest as will go then if temps are OKish il try turning the fans off. Also ambient is low about 17*C in my room if nto a bit lower


----------



## mavisky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I've seen people mod the regular h100 but has anyone nodded an h100i into a custom loop? I'm thinking about doing it if I can figure out what the tube sizing is


Should be exactly the same as the H80 custom loop I made. Used the Swiftech MicroRes, bought two fittings and some 1/4" id x 3/8" od tubing and then ziptied it at the pump and radiator. It's a tight fit at the pump/radiator and if you put an actual clamp on it you may even be able to fit a 3/8" id hose with a lot of pressure to keep it from leaking but I wasn't willing to take that risk.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedroc1999*
> 
> Hey guys, one last question... What fans are compaitabkle with corsair link apart from the included ones, Thanks in advanced


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedroc1999*
> 
> Anyone?
> 
> I dont want to replace with non-corsair fans since I want the Corsair Link, Will also think of ponying up some money for the Commander and Lightning kit as it looks very good in my eyes.
> Will give it a try to lower the fans as lowest as will go then if temps are OKish il try turning the fans off. Also ambient is low about 17*C in my room if nto a bit lower


It's hard to tell. For example, I read SGT is compatible with corsair link on H100i but not on H80i. I think better go to Corsair forum & see if you can find one that work.


----------



## MCCSolutions

HERE IS AN UPDATE FOR USING THE H100i AS A MODDED WATER BLOCK(Just remove the magnetic propeller and the PCB)....... IT WORKS GREAT!!!








Results= With the pump at low speed 5 volts it is 33C at Idle and only 38C with max load!(jumped to 37C before I could snap a photo!)









PICS:


----------



## MCCSolutions

double post on accident....


----------



## mavisky

So you're still using the 1/4"id x 3/8" id fittings on the block? I'd always figured the issue with the system was not so much the line size but the actual pump's performance. With my H80 set up on a reservoir I was shocked by how little flow and pressure there actually was within the loop compared to my current standalone GPU loop with hosing twice the size and an actual pump. Just no where even close to comparable.


----------



## tw1st

hey all you hydro series owners!

I recently put together a new rig and I opted for the Hyper TX3 Cooler (I did not want to very large cooler, so no 212+).While the tx3 is adequate enough, I feel getting the h60 might benefit me just a little bit more, for temps, oc and size purposes.

Thinking about the h60 2013 edition because my case wont fit a h100 or h80 (I know, it sucks).

So for anyone with a 3770K would you recommend the h60 for this CPU? Or should I just stay with the tx3?

Also reading all the horror stories about noisy pumps scared me a bit, but maybe the 2013 model is better?

Any input is very appreciated.


----------



## CrazyCorky

I purchased my h80i and have not had a problem with it. I'm not sure how good your cooler is but I was originally thinking to get a h60 to upgrade from my hyper 212+ but I kept getting told I wouldn't see much of a difference.


----------



## Martinm210

Just curious as I am soon going to be testing the H100i, Has anyone tried testing different thermal compounds vs the factory applied stuff? Wondering how it compares to something like MX-2?


----------



## tw1st

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCorky*
> 
> I purchased my h80i and have not had a problem with it. I'm not sure how good your cooler is but I was originally thinking to get a h60 to upgrade from my hyper 212+ but I kept getting told I wouldn't see much of a difference.


hmm, well if the h60 is at least on par or slightly better than the hyper 212+ than it might be worth it for me to invest in it. Since My hyper tx3 is below the 212+ cooling performance.


----------



## candy_van

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Just curious as I am soon going to be testing the H100i, Has anyone tried testing different thermal compounds vs the factory applied stuff? Wondering how it compares to something like MX-2?


The factory applied TIMs used on these are quite good.

I'm not 100% what is used on the newer ones, but last time this was looked into it was Shin Etsu x-23.
With the exception of using something like Indigo Xtreme or IC-7 maybe you're not going to see much, if any improvement over that.

Only possible reason to swap it out IMO is if you're unhappy with the factory spread (understandable) - at least when you're anal like me









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw1st*
> 
> hmm, well if the h60 is at least on par or slightly better than the hyper 212+ than it might be worth it for me to invest in it. Since My hyper tx3 is below the 212+ cooling performance.


H50/60 (older models) are on par with a Megahalems, the newer '13 version should be slightly better that since it has better tubing, cold-plate, etc (so yes it'd be better).


----------



## sobi1984

hello, i am an owner of a H100i in my corsair obsidian 650d and i have replaced it 4 times since i bought my first h100 on september...
my last h100i is working louder than the h100 (pump) and this is for me a little bit annoying ...
i opened an rma case in order to get replaced as the fw is 1.0.5 and i have the new pwm fans without rattling ...
unfortunately i cant have my h100i on push pull in my case as the 8pin adapter of my sabertooth doesn't let me..
my thought is to purchase an H80i configured in push pull with better fans than the stock...
is it a nice idea ? or i will have big temperature differences?


----------



## mikemartinco

The h60 is going to perform a little better than air. It's heats up fast though. Very thin rad. Unless you use some 150cfm fans to see way lower temps lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sobi1984*
> 
> my thought is to purchase an H80i configured in push pull with better fans than the stock...
> is it a nice idea ? or i will have big temperature differences?


The h80 is like a compact h100 with slightly lower efficiency. Fan orientation has only proven a few degrees +\-

Ill say its a good idea with high cfm fans. But your burning pumps 4 times is weird are you starving by gravity post some pics on how it's mounted


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sobi1984*
> 
> hello, i am an owner of a H100i in my corsair obsidian 650d and i have replaced it 4 times since i bought my first h100 on september...
> my last h100i is working louder than the h100 (pump) and this is for me a little bit annoying ...
> i opened an rma case in order to get replaced as the fw is 1.0.5 and i have the new pwm fans without rattling ...
> unfortunately i cant have my h100i on push pull in my case as the 8pin adapter of my sabertooth doesn't let me..
> my thought is to purchase an H80i configured in push pull with better fans than the stock...
> is it a nice idea ? or i will have big temperature differences?


I have the 2.2.0 firmware from the corsair website and don't have any issues. Never used the 1.0.5 so I don't know if it makes a difference.


----------



## PedroC1999

Can i redirect you to this post...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1365432/a-few-questions-about-the-h100i/0_40#post_19395632


----------



## sobi1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemartinco*
> 
> The h60 is going to perform a little better than air. It's heats up fast though. Very thin rad. Unless you use some 150cfm fans to see way lower temps lol
> The h80 is like a compact h100 with slightly lower efficiency. Fan orientation has only proven a few degrees +\-
> 
> Ill say its a good idea with high cfm fans. But your burning pumps 4 times is weird are you starving by gravity post some pics on how it's mounted


my h100 has pump noise 2 times and the third time no fan controlling, my h100i is making a lot of noise on pump and is louder than the h100...
i will post you photos in the next days to see them ...
i could say that i am really disappointed from the products but not from the support of corsair.


----------



## sobi1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I have the 2.2.0 firmware from the corsair website and don't have any issues. Never used the 1.0.5 so I don't know if it makes a difference.


you are saying that you use corsair link 2.2.0 and i am telling you about the firmware on h100i which is 1.0.1. or 1.0.4 or 1.0.5
we are discussing about different things here. you are saying about the control software and i am telling about the firmware of the cooler..


----------



## tw1st

well, went out during lunch and bought the h60 2013 edition for $65, going to install it when I get home and see what the difference is.

Question about the radiator and fan, should the fan be blowing air into the radiator, or blowing air out of my case through the back.


----------



## [email protected]

Add me to the club gentlemen once again. I currently own H100i


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Just curious as I am soon going to be testing the H100i, Has anyone tried testing different thermal compounds vs the factory applied stuff? Wondering how it compares to something like MX-2?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *candy_van*
> 
> The factory applied TIMs used on these are quite good.
> 
> I'm not 100% what is used on the newer ones, but last time this was looked into it was Shin Etsu x-23. With the exception of using something like Indigo Xtreme or IC-7 maybe you're not going to see much, if any improvement over that.
> 
> Only possible reason to swap it out IMO is if you're unhappy with the factory spread (understandable) - at least when you're anal like me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> H50/60 (older models) are on par with a Megahalems, the newer '13 version should be slightly better that since it has better tubing, cold-plate, etc (so yes it'd be better).
Click to expand...

Spot on ... I concure









Jury is still out on the "Liquid Ultra" which "some" guys were raving about several months ago, that it may give you a 1c-2c performance boost. It's an improved formula of AS5 type TIM with the 200hr cure time so in "Martin's World" of "Fine testing and Reviews" it's really not applicable








Nice to see you so active again








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sobi1984*
> 
> hello, i am an owner of a H100i in my corsair obsidian 650d and i have replaced it 4 times since i bought my first h100 on september...
> my last h100i is working louder than the h100 (pump) and this is for me a little bit annoying ...
> i opened an rma case in order to get replaced as the fw is 1.0.5 and i have the new pwm fans without rattling ...
> unfortunately i cant have my h100i on push pull in my case as the 8pin adapter of my sabertooth doesn't let me..
> my thought is to purchase an H80i configured in push pull with better fans than the stock...
> is it a nice idea ? or i will have big temperature differences?


IMHO push/pull is overated with the H100(i) series properly set up in a case with good circulation. For an average OC/load/ambients you may only see a 3c-4c loss of performance if you go with the H80i over the H100i. The stock (i) series fans are pretty good performers and you won't see much improvement in performance by replacing them BUT with AP-15's/Noctua's etc you may improve on the "Noise" factor with only a very slight hit in performance over the stock fans.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw1st*
> 
> well, went out during lunch and bought the h60 2013 edition for $65, going to install it when I get home and see what the difference is.
> 
> Question about the radiator and fan, should the fan be blowing air into the radiator, or blowing air out of my case through the back.


Not enough info on your system components/ case circulation / overclocks / 24/7 use etc to give a more detailed comment ... Corsair recommends Push/Intake (blowing air into the radiator-drawing fresh air in from the back) Personally and depending on your setup? (see above) I prefer the Push/Exhaust ... you may loose 1c-3c degrees in CPU cooling but the rest of your system benefits including your GPU/SSD-HDD/Motherboard and the radiator "Can" stay cleaner longer depending on the above









*HERE* is a 1st timer with a nice video showing my thoughts above @ 4min mark


----------



## tw1st

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Not enough info on your system components/ case circulation / overclocks / 24/7 use etc to give a more detailed comment ... Corsair recommends Push/Intake (blowing air into the radiator-drawing fresh air in from the back) Personally and depending on your setup? (see above) I prefer the Push/Exhaust ... you may loose 1c-3c degrees in CPU cooling but the rest of your system benefits including your GPU/SSD-HDD/Motherboard and the radiator "Can" stay cleaner longer depending on the above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HERE* is a 1st timer with a nice video showing my thoughts above @ 4min mark


Sure, thank you for your reply. I have a corsair 400r case, 2 front intake, 2 side intake, 2 top exhaust, and now will have another intake with the h60. So that would make 5 intake and only 2 exhaust... hmm maybe ill flip one around now that I think about it.

Rest of the specs are 3770K @ 4.3Ghz with 1.225 volts, asus sabertooth z77, 16GB Ram, 128GB SSD, and a 1TB HD.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw1st*
> 
> Sure, thank you for your reply. I have a corsair 400r case, 2 front intake, 2 side intake, 2 top exhaust, and now will have another intake with the h60. So that would make 5 intake and only 2 exhaust... hmm maybe ill flip one around now that I think about it.
> 
> Rest of the specs are 3770K @ 4.3Ghz with 1.225 volts, asus sabertooth z77, 16GB Ram, 128GB SSD, and a 1TB HD.


That's a very nice case, well set up and if you have a "Reference" video card (GPU) 1 fan blower type cooling that exhausts most of it's heat out the back, I would certainly set up the H60 as a Push/Exhaust ... BUT if your GPU is a factory OC'd model (aftermarket type cooling / 2 fans or more) that dumps most of the heat into the case (especially in SLI) then I think you may be better off going with the Corsair recommended Push/Intake ...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Just curious as I am soon going to be testing the H100i, Has anyone tried testing different thermal compounds vs the factory applied stuff? Wondering how it compares to something like MX-2?


Hey Martin ... it's awesome your doing "Your" version of an H100i review! ... and I was thinking with all the fans you have you could "honestly" get to the bottom of what aftermarket fans work with the H100i (H80i it's the same) "Link" software and which ones don't if people politely asked? ... I know it's asking alot but confirmations of which fans work and which ones don't are all over the place


----------



## Martinm210

Thanks guys. I think this will be my last kit to do phase 1 testing on for kit only performance. Then the fun will begin with the mods and hydraulics and tweaking stuff tinkering. I have a used kit and a new one coming so plenty to play around with.

I have plenty of fans and an extra rad or two as well I could do some experiments with..


----------



## PedroC1999

It arrived this afternoon, some quick pics will still in box.
















Sent From My Rooted Galaxy Ace II Using Tapatalk


----------



## tw1st

actually ended up getting higher temps with the h60 vs the tx3









Idle went from 32 to 38
load temps went from 65 all the way to 86

maybe I did something wrong, but I took it off for now, will mess around more tomorrow, not very pleased right now :/


----------



## skitz9417

i got bad temps with the stock thermal paste with my h60 and i still get high temps


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw1st*
> 
> actually ended up getting higher temps with the h60 vs the tx3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Idle went from 32 to 38
> load temps went from 65 all the way to 86
> 
> maybe I did something wrong, but I took it off for now, will mess around more tomorrow, not very pleased right now :/


return the h60. its pretty much useless as you found out for a 3770k that hasnt been de-lidded. h60 is more for a 'quieter' stock or probably older amd phenom 2. ivy imo gets too hot for anything less than a really good cooler. the h60 is not a really good cooler no matter what you read.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Just curious as I am soon going to be testing the H100i, Has anyone tried testing different thermal compounds vs the factory applied stuff? Wondering how it compares to something like MX-2?


The H50 and H70 used Shin Etsu TIM, while the H60, H80 and H100 used Dow Corning TIM. Corsair claims that the Dow Corning stuff is as good as the Shin Etsu. I don't know if the newer Hydro coolers are still using the Dow Corning TIM.

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showpost.php?p=523712&postcount=69
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Spot on ... I concure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jury is still out on the "Liquid Ultra" which "some" guys were raving about several months ago, that it may give you a 1c-2c performance boost. It's an improved formula of AS5 type TIM with the 200hr cure time so in "Martin's World" of "Fine testing and Reviews" it's really not applicable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Nice to see you so active again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMHO push/pull is overated with the H100(i) series properly set up in a case with good circulation. For an average OC/load/ambients you may only see a 3c-4c loss of performance if you go with the H80i over the H100i. The stock (i) series fans are pretty good performers and you won't see much improvement in performance by replacing them BUT with AP-15's/Noctua's etc you may improve on the "Noise" factor with only a very slight hit in performance over the stock fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not enough info on your system components/ case circulation / overclocks / 24/7 use etc to give a more detailed comment ... Corsair recommends Push/Intake (blowing air into the radiator-drawing fresh air in from the back) Personally and depending on your setup? (see above) I prefer the Push/Exhaust ... you may loose 1c-3c degrees in CPU cooling but the rest of your system benefits including your GPU/SSD-HDD/Motherboard and the radiator "Can" stay cleaner longer depending on the above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HERE* is a 1st timer with a nice video showing my thoughts above @ 4min mark


Liquid Ultra is nothing like AS5. AS5 is a paste while LU is metallic.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3N3D1zaeJoU
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> return the h60. its pretty much useless as you found out for a 3770k that hasnt been de-lidded. h60 is more for a 'quieter' stock or probably older amd phenom 2. ivy imo gets too hot for anything less than a really good cooler. the h60 is not a really good cooler no matter what you read.


Many people have found the H60 to be a very good cooler, and the reviews place it correctly amongst the other Hydro coolers. In fact, many people used the highly popular H50 cooler for overclocking, and the H60 is better than the H50.

It's a simple matter to google the reviews.

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/corsair_h60_2013_review,10.html
http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/5089/corsair_hydro_series_h60_2012_edition_liquid_cpu_cooler_review/index8.html
http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/32192-corsair-h60-2013?showall=&start=2
http://www.anandtech.com/show/5054/corsair-hydro-series-h60-h80-and-h100-reviewed/5
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Corsair-H60-CPU-Cooler-Review/1681/6

There are plenty more. The data in those reviews is pretty consistent.


----------



## pc-illiterate

i forgot they updated the h60 when they revamped their lineup. and the h50 wasnt that good. when it was introduced you could get the same or better temps on air cooling for the same amount.
http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2523&page=4 amd coolers
http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2523&page=5 intel coolers
yes its frosty's but it still shows where the h50 placed approximately.

dont forget how loud the h60 is either once those fans ramp up. but to each his own.


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> The H50 and H70 used Shin Etsu TIM, while the H60, H80 and H100 used Dow Corning TIM. Corsair claims that the Dow Corning stuff is as good as the Shin Etsu. I don't know if the newer Hydro coolers are still using the Dow Corning TIM.
> 
> http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showpost.php?p=523712&postcount=69
> Liquid Ultra is nothing like AS5. AS5 is a paste while LU is metallic.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3N3D1zaeJoU
> Many people have found the H60 to be a very good cooler, and the reviews place it correctly amongst the other Hydro coolers. In fact, many people used the highly popular H50 cooler for overclocking, and the H60 is better than the H50.
> 
> It's a simple matter to google the reviews.
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/corsair_h60_2013_review,10.html
> http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/5089/corsair_hydro_series_h60_2012_edition_liquid_cpu_cooler_review/index8.html
> http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/32192-corsair-h60-2013?showall=&start=2
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/5054/corsair-hydro-series-h60-h80-and-h100-reviewed/5
> http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Corsair-H60-CPU-Cooler-Review/1681/6
> 
> There are plenty more. The data in those reviews is pretty consistent.


Perfect, sounds like it is pretty good stuff. Never heard of Dow Corning, but if it's comparable or better than Shin Etsu, then it must be good.
Thanks!


----------



## Martinm210

FYI, found this on Dow Corning..a very good read...plumb full of all sorts of TIM science!
http://www.dowcorning.com/content/publishedlit/11-1712-01.pdf


----------



## Degree

What are the differences between the H100 and H100i? I built my rig over the summer and got a H100 :/

Also, what are some good fans to replace the H100 stock fans? They are so loud and I think it's time to replace them. Louder than my graphic card fans


----------



## [email protected]

Just wanted to check if you did add me to the list once again. I am using H100i now. I still have a perfect fairly good H100 and thermal has been wiped off and i only used it for a week lol.

So basically i have 2 working coolers.

I like the H100i better because of the tubes and do i need to download corsair software link for it? I don't have a Corsair Controller and i figured that was probably for owners who have controllers. I don't intend to get one but i assumed it was a stand alone driver or something but i guess i was wrong.

I will post pictures tonight the best i can. I wanted to wait til i get a new cell since i dropped mine in the washer


----------



## mikemartinco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw1st*
> 
> actually ended up getting higher temps with the h60 vs the tx3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Idle went from 32 to 38
> load temps went from 65 all the way to 86
> 
> maybe I did something wrong, but I took it off for now, will mess around more tomorrow, not very pleased right now :/


That sucks man. Only thing I could say its try good thermal paste nice and thin and make sure it's firmly mounted so it's functioning efficiently. Ive seen bad temps from mismounts lots of times. I'm also running an h60 but on my GPU though. Asus directcuii 570 from 74c load to 54c load


----------



## mikemartinco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> What are the differences between the H100 and H100i? I built my rig over the summer and got a H100 :/
> 
> Also, what are some good fans to replace the H100 stock fans? They are so loud and I think it's time to replace them. Louder than my graphic card fans


100i has more flexible tubing slightly more efficient pump and rad. The fans are wannabe looking sp120s but def aren't as loud as the old ones, I cant stand how loud they are.

To pick some fans I always use newegg cuz you can filter by DB(noise) and CFM. Jusf take a look at the stats of a fan you have already and adjust from there


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> What are the differences between the H100 and H100i? I built my rig over the summer and got a H100 :/
> 
> Also, what are some good fans to replace the H100 stock fans? They are so loud and I think it's time to replace them. Louder than my graphic card fans


Alot, the Pumps are differant which is the main thing, but also not having the control on the pump, the H100i has built in Corsair Link so you controll everything with the Progr:thumb:am!












!


----------



## Degree

I see, so that's basically it right?
Any performance difference?


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> I see, so that's basically it right?
> Any performance difference?


Yea, I caint remember right off the top of my head but there are charts online if you google it, I think it was like 5-10C cooler! Personally though I modded mine and am just using it as a water block on a custom setup. the copper block is actually amazing! Im pulling idle temps of only 27C and Max temps on a FX8350 of 38C which is great!

You can find the pics in my bui





ld!


----------



## [email protected]

Can anyone tell me the diameter size of the tubing on the Corsair cooler? Their websites don't have any tech specs what measurement they are by default?

As for the cooler Link is it safe to update the firmware? I just don't wanna mess up my cooler's intact data. Just wanted to check with everyone else if it's ok to download the firmware. I just don't want to encounter any issues but i have faith in Corsair products and their end of helping us enjoy a good product that'll keep your computer cool and live a long time.


----------



## zerocool327

anyone else's h100i pump is pretty audible?


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Can anyone tell me the diameter size of the tubing on the Corsair cooler? Their websites don't have any tech specs what measurement they are by default?
> 
> As for the cooler Link is it safe to update the firmware? I just don't wanna mess up my cooler's intact data. Just wanted to check with everyone else if it's ok to download the firmware. I just don't want to encounter any issues but i have faith in Corsair products and their end of helping us enjoy a good product that'll keep your computer cool and live a long time.


Yea sure I have posted it before but its about 1/4ID and 3/8OD. ID=Inner Diameter and OD= Outer Diameter


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerocool327*
> 
> anyone else's h100i pump is pretty audible?


No, you just need to upgrade the firmware, and if the problem persist then either your fans suck and run so slow that they dont drown it out or the Corsair is defective and you need to RMA it! Good luck


----------



## CrazyCorky

I thought all pumps were going to be audible? I can hear my H80i but it's just your typical whine from a pump!


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCorky*
> 
> I thought all pumps were going to be audible? I can hear my H80i but it's just your typical whine from a pump!


Well yea.... But only up to a certain point, typicality if the pump is running properly it will not be louder than typical case fans. Usually the fluid dissipates the sounds of the pump motor and its propeller or Head.....







I have a industrial 12v pump and its huge, and its mounted externally on my case and it is still not louder than the fans!


----------



## hurtmypony

I am trying to determine if I need to reseat my cooler.

I am new to the branded Corsair A-I-O watercooling, but used a Coolit A-I-O on my last box with no issue.

I seem to be getting mixed replies at the Corsair forums, and was wondering if you guys can inform me a little better.

Here are the facts:

I have a Corsair H80i on my Ivy Bridge i5 3750K.
Gigabyte board GA-Z77x-UD5H
Corsair H80i mount bolts tightened hard by finger.
Ambient temperature is a consistent 22c.
Temperature inside case is 23c

CPU running at stock.
Corsair Link fans set at performance. Running 1550 - 1650 RPM at all times during all tests.

Using CoreTemp and RealTemp (not simultaneously) to report temperatures.

Idle doesn't seem so bad: 27c - 33c
5 minutes in Prime95 and it will shoot up to 71c. It generally stays around there for as long as I have been willing to babysit it - maybe 45 minutes?
IBT will send it to 76c by the third test of the ten. It generally doesn't exceed that in the default test.

There are some discrepancies:

I know that CorsairLink CPU Temp is an average of all 4 cores, but that temperature differs from RealTemp and CoreTemp significantly:

4-6c difference at idle between RealTemp and Corsair Link
over 16c difference during 100% load between RealTemp and CorsairLink

For example, during IBT, RealTemp might say 76c while Corsair Link shows 61c at any particular moment.

This may be normal operating conditions, but I also notice that during a 30-minute 100% of Prime95:

The H80i temp (the liquid temp) might be 31c
While the CPU temp is 76c.

Does this large disparity between liquid and CPU temp tell me anything , like perhaps I improperly seated the Corsair H80i?

Are my temperatures normal? "The Ivy Bridge runs hot" - this hot? 77c at 100% load at stock speed?

I fret over cleaning/reapplying TIM/reseating the Corsair in fear of messing it up more, so I only want to do that if the evidence leads to that. Over at Corsair, the users say everything from "those are fine temps at stock" to "you clearly need to reapply and reseat". The advertising at Corsair suggests I should be able to clock a 3770K @ 4.6Ghz and keep temps at load as low as 48c with the H80i, and I have read some users report similar successes.

I am not sure what option to take.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurtmypony*
> 
> I am trying to determine if I need to reseat my cooler.
> 
> I am new to the branded Corsair A-I-O watercooling, but used a Coolit A-I-O on my last box with no issue.
> 
> I seem to be getting mixed replies at the Corsair forums, and was wondering if you guys can inform me a little better.
> 
> Here are the facts:
> 
> I have a Corsair H80i on my Ivy Bridge i5 3750K.
> Gigabyte board GA-Z77x-UD5H
> Corsair H80i mount bolts tightened hard by finger.
> Ambient temperature is a consistent 22c.
> Temperature inside case is 23c
> 
> CPU running at stock.
> Corsair Link fans set at performance. Running 1550 - 1650 RPM at all times during all tests.
> 
> Using CoreTemp and RealTemp (not simultaneously) to report temperatures.
> 
> Idle doesn't seem so bad: 27c - 33c
> 5 minutes in Prime95 and it will shoot up to 71c. It generally stays around there for as long as I have been willing to babysit it - maybe 45 minutes?
> IBT will send it to 76c by the third test of the ten. It generally doesn't exceed that in the default test.
> 
> There are some discrepancies:
> 
> I know that CorsairLink CPU Temp is an average of all 4 cores, but that temperature differs from RealTemp and CoreTemp significantly:
> 
> 4-6c difference at idle between RealTemp and Corsair Link
> over 16c difference during 100% load between RealTemp and CorsairLink
> 
> For example, during IBT, RealTemp might say 76c while Corsair Link shows 61c at any particular moment.
> 
> This may be normal operating conditions, but I also notice that during a 30-minute 100% of Prime95:
> 
> The H80i temp (the liquid temp) might be 31c
> While the CPU temp is 76c.
> 
> Does this large disparity between liquid and CPU temp tell me anything , like perhaps I improperly seated the Corsair H80i?
> 
> Are my temperatures normal? "The Ivy Bridge runs hot" - this hot? 77c at 100% load at stock speed?
> 
> I fret over cleaning/reapplying TIM/reseating the Corsair in fear of messing it up more, so I only want to do that if the evidence leads to that. Over at Corsair, the users say everything from "those are fine temps at stock" to "you clearly need to reapply and reseat". The advertising at Corsair suggests I should be able to clock a 3770K @ 4.6Ghz and keep temps at load as low as 48c with the H80i, and I have read some users report similar successes.
> 
> I am not sure what option to take.










Hummm........ Ok real quick do me a favor because this does not add up lol. Loosen the pumps/cooler screws just a half turn then apply firm even pressure to the block. And this time fun your test but use something else to read the tempature, like a separate node if you have one if not use a kitchen or health thermometer. I have seen this many times before and what it usually ends up being is a bad temp node on the CPU die. If it still reads bad temps then give me more info and a pic like the orientation of the radiator......


----------



## hurtmypony

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hummm........ Ok real quick do me a favor because this does not add up lol. Loosen the pumps/cooler screws just a half turn then apply firm even pressure to the block. And this time fun your test but use something else to read the tempature, like a separate node if you have one if not use a kitchen or health thermometer. I have seen this many times before and what it usually ends up being is a bad temp node on the CPU die. If it still reads bad temps then give me more info and a pic like the orientation of the radiator......


Thank you for the reply.

To be clear, you want me to:

1. Lightly loosen the cooler screws
2. Apply uniform manual pressure to the block
3. While manually pressing down on the block, run a stress test using a different tool to measure temperatures.

This way, we can see if my issue is the block being improperly seated when screwed down or if it is due to something more significant?

Oh, and here is a shot. I have another at a different angle, but this one is closer to the processor.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurtmypony*
> 
> Thank you for the reply.
> 
> To be clear, you want me to:
> 
> 1. Lightly loosen the cooler screws
> 2. Apply uniform manual pressure to the block
> 3. While manually pressing down on the block, run a stress test using a different tool to measure temperatures.
> 
> This way, we can see if my issue is the block being improperly seated when screwed down or if it is due to something more significant?


Not quite you only need to apply the pressure for a few seconds to force out most of the air pockets in the thermal paste. after that leave it as is and run the test.....


----------



## MCCSolutions

And yes the test will effectively tell me if its due to improper seating or if something else is to blame....


----------



## hurtmypony

Gotcha.

And just to be certain, should I retighten the bolts after squishing out the potential air pockets or leave it [very] lightly loosened?

Thank you very much for all the input. Unfortunately, I will have to report back later - I am finishing my day of work out on the machine, and cannot do as you suggest until 2 hours from now. I appreciate your assistance very much, though.

EDIT: Just noticed your crazy Corsair rig! That is astonishing! Excellent job...


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurtmypony*
> 
> Gotcha.
> 
> And just to be certain, should I retighten the bolts after squishing out the potential air pockets or leave it [very] lightly loosened?
> 
> Thank you very much for all the input. Unfortunately, I will have to report back later - I am finishing my day of work out on the machine, and cannot do as you suggest until 2 hours from now. I appreciate your assistance very much, though.


Ok no prob I will be waiting lol. Also from your pic I can see that you have the RAD oriented where the hoses are on the bottom which is good!







It allows the pump to only pull coolant not air! Also i suggest updating the pump to the newest firmware....


----------



## Sir Amik Vase

H80i arrives tomorrow!
Is it worth changing the TIM that comes with the unit to AS5?, from what people say it's rather good for stock TIM.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Amik Vase*
> 
> H80i arrives tomorrow!
> Is it worth changing the TIM that comes with the unit to AS5?, from what people say it's rather good for stock TIM.


No because it is good and there is a minimal difference in temps.... To add to that it is already spread perfectly and evenly which helps and leaves out the air removal process... Leave it as is....


----------



## kcamrn

I just got my H100 from Corsair, but I have a couple questions.

First, for some reason I was missing one of the double sided mounts.







I installed the cooler with just three, and It seems like I'm getting pretty solid contact. I've already talked to corsair and they're sending me a screw set soon. I overclocked to 4.3 and my system idles at 39-43C and maxes at 75-78C. This seems pretty high to me, but I'm a first time overclocker. I may have used too big of a pea with the thermal paste, or it could have something to do with the missing mount and thumbscrew. I'd like some opinions on this if possible. Note that I DO plan on reinstalling the cooler once I get the other mount. I will also reapply thermal paste. I just wanted to test it and see if it would work at all with the three mounts.

My other question has to do with the fan controller. I plugged everything into the water pump, and one cable from the pump into the mobo. Will my computer automatically adjust between the three levels of cooling, or do I need to manually turn it up when I game? The highest setting is insanely loud, while the middle setting is fine for me. Thanks for the help everyone!


----------



## mikemartinco

thats a bit high imo, maybe downclock till you can have equal pressure on the cpu. i have the same on my 8120 8 core cpu overclock 1.4ghz and it doesnt go over 55c just as an example for you


----------



## kcamrn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemartinco*
> 
> thats a bit high imo, maybe downclock till you can have equal pressure on the cpu. i have the same on my 8120 8 core cpu overclock 1.4ghz and it doesnt go over 55c just as an example for you


Probably a good idea. Maybe I'll take it down to 4.0 until I get the other screw.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> And yes the test will effectively tell me if its due to improper seating or if something else is to blame....


What's with all the double posts? You know there's an edit ability, right?


----------



## hurtmypony

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Ok no prob I will be waiting lol. Also from your pic I can see that you have the RAD oriented where the hoses are on the bottom which is good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It allows the pump to only pull coolant not air! Also i suggest updating the pump to the newest firmware....


I need to do longer testing, but that loosening, pressing and re-tightening of the block seems to have at least made some improvements to my temps.

Prime95 has been running for about 30 minutes (and still going) and while it did peak at 70c, it dropped to around 65c for most of the test.

Also, the CorsairLink CPU temps, while not exact, seem much more in line with what RealTemp and CoreTemp is reporting.

IBT's standard 10-pass default test, which used to climb to 78c or so if not 80c, peaked around 73c I think (I stupidly cleared the temps before writing them down somewhere).

I'll keep testing, and come back if it reverts to the more alarming temps like before.

Thank you for the advice.


----------



## zerocool327

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> No, you just need to upgrade the firmware, and if the problem persist then either your fans suck and run so slow that they dont drown it out or the Corsair is defective and you need to RMA it! Good luck


Using the stock fans which will be swapping them out soon, but i'll check for a firmware update


----------



## zerocool327

Do you guys use the default setting of the h100i?
what are your fan speeds,rpm, for regular PC use (internet, music)


----------



## caveman59847

Hey I used the Noctua (NF-F12 PWM) - 120mm Two Speed Focused FlowTM Fan, 1500/1200 RPM on my Corsair H100i and I can't really say that it made it any cooler but I will say that it is extremely quite. When I used the Corsair fans with it my rig sounded like it was preparing for takeoff


----------



## zerocool327

That's how my fans sound when the PC is booted lol. Swapping them out soon for noiseblocker nb-eloop fans


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> What's with all the double posts? You know there's an edit ability, right?


YES LOL! Im not ******ed but its faster and more practical to post in individuality. Its a misconception that it matters, it DOES NOT USE MORE SERVER SPACE to post many in contrast to combining them.....


----------



## PedroC1999

So I oponed the H100i and found two 3pin fans, I thought they started to ship with 4pin?


----------



## braindrain

I think it depends when who ever you ordered from got their stock in. I got my H100i about a month ago and it still had 3 pin fans.


----------



## PedroC1999

Is that a problem? Do they make any more noises etc than the 4pin ones?


----------



## braindrain

No idea as I don't have the 4 pin fans. From what I vaguely remember reading it had something to do with the fans emitting a high pitched whine. With 4 pin fans the speeds are PWM controlled where as on a 3 pin they controlled by voltage which, AFAIK, isn't as precise.


----------



## Sir Amik Vase

Just installed my h80i and I'm getting idle temps of 40c and prime95 100% loads of 73c, is that normal or do I need to re seat?

EDIT: Shouldn't be an airflow issue. I have a whole plethora of fans bringing in cool air.


----------



## kizwan

Normal if your ambient is ~30C to ~32C & CPU is running @4.6GHz all the time with all power savings off.


----------



## Sir Amik Vase

My ambient is about 22C today and it does have all the power savings off. But I'm still thinking its a bit on the high side.
Note: I have two nuctua NF-F12's push/pull at 100% power


----------



## kizwan

I think that is a lot high. ~20C delta for idle quite high. You might want to try re-mount the CPU block.


----------



## Sir Amik Vase

What RPM should my pump be at, it's always sitting on 2150rpm for me
Also after a re-seat the temps are only 2c lower.


----------



## kizwan

Pump should always running at constant speed. Corsair link show pump running at 1849 RPM. Core Temp show average idle temp is ~34C. That's better but slightly high.


----------



## Sir Amik Vase

There has been minimal difference between this and my 212+ air cooler.
£80 really wasn't worth the difference I've had








At least it's quiet I suppose.


----------



## zerocool327

my pump is running at 2220

By changing the dividers, one gives me about 4400 four gives me about 1000 and six about 700

scratching my head wondering how you have yours running at 1849

+ when not gaming i use the quiet preset. Still keeps my cpu at 31c when idling.


----------



## Sir Amik Vase

Zero, what does your coolant temp get up to on 100% load?


----------



## caveman59847

Hey I wanted to see what peoples input would be. I am using a Corsair H100i with the Noctua NP 120mm Focused Fans that are 1500/1300 RPM. I have heard good things about using a Radiator Shroud to increase cooling performance by decreasing dead zones, so my question is I wanted to see how you guys would weigh in on purchasing a Radiator Shroud for this purpose.


----------



## braindrain

Just take 2 old 120mm fans and cut the blades and support arms out and use the frames to test if shrouds will help. Not sure how much better it'll be but it's worth a test. If the frames help then buy the proper shrouds.


----------



## Sir Amik Vase

Ok mounting it as an intake reduces the temps by an appreciable amount


----------



## caveman59847

I also decided for S & G's to purchase the Indigo Xtreme Precision Engineered Thermal Interface (ETI) Kit for AMD AMx/FMx from FrozenCPU to see if it will also make any sort of difference. Thought it would be fun to test instead of conventional Thermal Paste. Supposedly the Bulk Thermal Conductivity: >20 W/mK compared to Phobya HeGrease Extreme Thermal Paste which is 8.5 W / mK. I will post the results when I get the Indigo Xtreme. I also considered mounting two more Noctua NP 120mm Focused Fans above the radiator and leaving two underneath to see if I can improve airflow through the Corsair H100i radiator or do you think this would be a waste of money?


----------



## dboythagr8

I just got a h80i and am using in a Silverstone FT02. For one thing my idle temps are extremely high. I am running a 4.6ghz and have some settings turned off or whatever so it stays there for the most part. Right now for example CPUID Hardware is telling me my idle temps is at a 49c..I'm coming from a H100 and the idle temps were always a bit warm however I attributed it to what I mentioned above. Whenever I gamed or ran some benches temps stayed in the high 60's - mid 70s so I just left it alone.

Testing on the H80i though and it got up to the mid 80s before I stopped. I'm wondering if this is because I have the fans on wrong. The FT02 has 3 180mm fans as intakes, with the one 120mm (where the H80i is in push/pull). I need this to be in exhaust configuration, and there were no mentions on the fan as to which direction that was. Which side of the fan is correct for this?


----------



## caveman59847

I have a moment sometimes and usually connect my fans and will use a light piece of paper to make sure that I have the fans pointing in the right direction and have changed the direction of every fan in my case and even the PSU to find the best temps for my case. I have even for S & G's changed the fans and use a piece of paper or a cigarette and blow it in to see how the smoke flows through my case. Maybe a little extreme but it will show you how your air travels and if their are dead spots.


----------



## Sir Amik Vase

dboy im not sure if you have this issue, I haven't with mine, but check your back plate. You might need to put some small washers on it if it's loose when fully tightened.
If it's not that then you might need to reseat it a few times, the hoses cause it to have stupid pressure differences on each side making mounting a pain in the backside!


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Amik Vase*
> 
> dboy im not sure if you have this issue, I haven't with mine, but check your back plate. You might need to put some small washers on it if it's loose when fully tightened.
> If it's not that then you might need to reseat it a few times, the hoses cause it to have stupid pressure differences on each side making mounting a pain in the backside!


It's on there pretty tight. I'm actually using the H100 mounting bracket. I just came from a Corsair 500r and I left it on their and just placed the H80i pump on it. I will check that again, but my main issue is the fan direction. I need it to be exhaust but I'm not sure which side that is since it doesn't say on the fans

Here's my system:



That 120mm spot is my only exhaust area. Does the exhaust direction of the fan have the black/grey sticker with the bars on it? If so should that part be facing the radiator?


----------



## Sir Amik Vase

Fan exhaust is always the side with the sticker on it so if you are doing push/pull you have the first fan with the sticker facing the rad, the other with the sticker facing away from rad and attaching to the case for exhaust. If you have one fan then you just have it attached to the rad with the stick facing the rad and you then bolt it onto the case.

TL;DR:

Push/pull = inside case > Fan > rad > fan > fan mount > outside of case
One fan only = Inside case > fan > rad > fan mount > outside case

Also you have SLI titans. They're so beautiful!


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> It's on there pretty tight. I'm actually using the H100 mounting bracket. I just came from a Corsair 500r and I left it on their and just placed the H80i pump on it. I will check that again, but my main issue is the fan direction. I need it to be exhaust but I'm not sure which side that is since it doesn't say on the fans
> 
> Here's my system:
> 
> 
> 
> That 120mm spot is my only exhaust area. Does the exhaust direction of the fan have the black/grey sticker with the bars on it? If so should that part be facing the radiator?


I never see cases online at stores like this: how is the side panel facing you? It's normally the other side


----------



## PedroC1999

He might have turned the case around?


----------



## General121

Oh wait. Haha. Oops. That's possible, but the cables would be going farther than normal in most situations like that.


----------



## braindrain

The case he has is similar to some Silverstone cases. The motherboard is 90 degrees to normal. The graphics cards are vertical and the rear ports are at the top. The motherboard is also mounted on the opposite side of the case to regular towers.

EDIT: I see it IS a Silverstone case. Been thinking about getting one as they definitely different. Maybe for my next build.


----------



## zerocool327

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Amik Vase*
> 
> Zero, what does your coolant temp get up to on 100% load?


I'll do another stress test when i get home and post some screenshots


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Amik Vase*
> 
> Fan exhaust is always the side with the sticker on it so if you are doing push/pull you have the first fan with the sticker facing the rad, the other with the sticker facing away from rad and attaching to the case for exhaust. If you have one fan then you just have it attached to the rad with the stick facing the rad and you then bolt it onto the case.
> 
> TL;DR:
> 
> Push/pull = inside case > Fan > rad > fan > fan mount > outside of case
> One fan only = Inside case > fan > rad > fan mount > outside case
> 
> Also you have SLI titans. They're so beautiful!


Right, I do have it in push/pull. So the sticker should be facing the rad for an exhaust setup if I got that right? fan (sticker facing rad) ->rad->fan (sticker away from the rad) -> air flowing to the outside of case? And appreciate the Titan comment. One reason why I wanted to move back to the FT02 with the window

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> I never see cases online at stores like this: how is the side panel facing you? It's normally the other side


I'm using a Silverstone FT02. It may be discontinued I'm not sure, but it's a great case. There are 3 180mm intake fans at the bottom pushing the air to the top. Heat rises so the board at a 90 degree angle helps this. This is why I'm trying to make sure I have my H80i setup correctly as its the only exhaust outlet.


----------



## Sir Amik Vase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Right, I do have it in push/pull. So the sticker should be facing the rad for an exhaust setup if I got that right? fan (sticker facing rad) ->rad->fan (facing away from the rad) -> air flowing to the outside of case?


Yes, exactly right


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Amik Vase*
> 
> Yes, exactly right


That may be my problem then! Right now it's like this:

fan (sticker facing *away* rad) ->rad->fan (facing away from the rad) -> air flowing to the outside of case

I will give this a try


----------



## Sir Amik Vase

No wonder you're getting bad temps, you're just creating a black hole








Update us with how pleased you are about to become


----------



## dboythagr8

Yep, switching that first fan around did it. Right now it's idling at 38 and I did a small p95 session and it got up to 69c-70c but that was it. Much better than the 80-85 it was before after only running p95 for a few minutes.

Thanks:thumb:

Also must say the the Corsair Link 2 software makes life so much easier. On my H100 and the H70 before it having to open the case up every time you wanted to make a speed change was highly annoying.


----------



## zerocool327

screenshot for you guys, full load.


----------



## Degree

What are some good replacement fans for the stock H100?
They are so loud and I want to replace them

Also, I only have 2 fans on the rad, the stock ones, should using 4 fans make any difference? Or should I just save my money and stick with 2 fans?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> What are some good replacement fans for the stock H100?
> They are so loud and I want to replace them
> 
> Also, I only have 2 fans on the rad, the stock ones, should using 4 fans make any difference? Or should I just save my money and stick with 2 fans?


Noctua NF-F12, if you don't mind the colors. Two of those will be quite and do the job, adding two more is probably not worth the cost.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Noctua NF-F12, if you don't mind the colors. Two of those will be quite and do the job, adding two more is probably not worth the cost.


Yea I don't mind the colors at all, I think performance > look.
They seem little bit too pricey though, are they better than the AP-15s?


----------



## Agoniizing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Yea I don't mind the colors at all, I think performance > look.
> They seem little bit too pricey though, are they better than the AP-15s?


Performance > Sound. I use two Scythe ultra kaze 3000rpm fans on my H100 intaking air. That's my opinion.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Yea I don't mind the colors at all, I think performance > look.
> They seem little bit too pricey though, are they better than the AP-15s?


$19.49 for the F12, $22.94 for the A15 which is a 140mm fan with a rounded frame that allows mounting in a 120mm holes but it is still bigger. To fit on the h100 you would want the cheaper F12.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> $19.49 for the F12, $22.94 for the A15 which is a 140mm fan with a rounded frame that allows mounting in a 120mm holes but it is still bigger. To fit on the h100 you would want the cheaper F12.


Where can you buy with those price?
On frozencpu AP15s are $15.95 and F12s are $24.95 with Amazon/Newegg about the same price
They are also both 120mm


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Where can you buy with those price?
> On frozencpu AP15s are $15.95 and F12s are $24.95 with Amazon/Newegg about the same price
> They are also both 120mm


Sorry, not sure where you are getting your info, but the NF-A15 PWM is a 140mm fan. Because of its rounded frame, it can use 120mm holes. All the info in on their website. The prices are what I see on Amazon.

I think you might be confusing it with the Scythe AP15, I have been talking about Noctua A15.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Sorry, not sure where you are getting your info, but the NF-A15 PWM is a 140mm fan. Because of its rounded frame, it can use 120mm holes. All the info in on their website. The prices are what I see on Amazon.
> 
> I think you might be confusing it with the Scythe AP15, I have been talking about Noctua A15.


I'm talking about the Gentle Typhoon AP15s


----------



## MerkageTurk

Guys/Girls just a heads up, firmware 1.05 for h100i/h80i is realeased check corsair forums


----------



## MerkageTurk

Well my h100i was loud so i opened corsairlink soft and clicked the fans and changed it from balanced to default which reduced it to quite also temps r the same.

Using mobile sorry for typo; they should make mechanical mini usb keyboard for phones or sometging


----------



## dboythagr8

I am quite pleased with the H80i. Playing Crysis 3 maxed out at 4.6ghz barely touched 60c, and most of the time was in the mid 50's. Running on the quiet setting too. Good stuff.


----------



## nonomos

Upgraded from H100 to H100i and I am so happy I did! The difference in quality and operation is huge! I didn't even have to build a voltagedropper this time, worked right out of the box


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> I'm talking about the Gentle Typhoon AP15s


So which one would be the better deal?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> So which one would be the better deal?


The NF-F12 and AP15 fans are close enough in performance that you can go with whichever one you like better, or whichever one you can get cheaper if that is your goal. Look up some reviews of each and you will get different opinions of which is better.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> The NF-F12 and AP15 fans are close enough in performance that you can go with whichever one you like better, or whichever one you can get cheaper if that is your goal. Look up some reviews of each and you will get different opinions of which is better.


Alright thanks!

I'll go ahead and pick one while I go ahead and buy the NZXT Hue for my case


----------



## Adasen

Just brought a H55 to cool my 2500k. Thing is once i'd installed it onto my sabertooth p67 the top pcie slot stopped detecting my GC. Any clues as to why that would happen?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> YES LOL! Im not ******ed but its faster and more practical to post in individuality. Its a misconception that it matters, it DOES NOT USE MORE SERVER SPACE to post many in contrast to combining them.....


Traditionally, it's frowned upon to multiple post. That goes for just about every forum I frequent.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Amik Vase*
> 
> Fan exhaust is always the side with the sticker on it so if you are doing push/pull you have the first fan with the sticker facing the rad, the other with the sticker facing away from rad and attaching to the case for exhaust. If you have one fan then you just have it attached to the rad with the stick facing the rad and you then bolt it onto the case.
> 
> TL;DR:
> 
> Push/pull = inside case > Fan > rad > fan > fan mount > outside of case
> One fan only = Inside case > fan > rad > fan mount > outside case
> 
> Also you have SLI titans. They're so beautiful!


Most fans (not all fans) will have two arrows on one side. One points in the direction of airflow, and the other points in the direction of blade rotation.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> So which one would be the better deal?


The AP15 is one of the best fans you can get for quiet/performance. Another one of the top fans is Yate Loons if you see them around.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adasen*
> 
> Just brought a H55 to cool my 2500k. Thing is once i'd installed it onto my sabertooth p67 the top pcie slot stopped detecting my GC. Any clues as to why that would happen?


I doubt it has anything to do with the cooler. I would remove the card, reboot the pc, shut it down and reinstall the card. If you have video on the main board, you might also want to check in BIOS and make sure it's shut off, or at least set to detect a PCI graphics card first.


----------



## Sir Amik Vase

Just took a look at my TIM spread to see if I could bring down prime 95 loads below 70c (max core was 72/73c).
Turns out I was too conservative in my re-application and only had ~55% of the surface covered...
Temps are now down to 65c max, woop!

EDIT: Lol I'm just going to leave this here. Ambient of 21c.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Most fans (not all fans) will have two arrows on one side. One points in the direction of airflow, and the other points in the direction of blade rotation.


Isn't it the industry standard that, unless stated on the packaging for marketing material, the fans will always push the air 'back' towards the sticker on the rear?
I hope I haven't been wrong all this time.


----------



## braindrain

That's the standard as far as I know but more and more fan's have stickers on both sides. While most fans do have the arrows on them the stock H100i fans, and I'm guessing H80i fans, don't. Better to say they blow towards the motor/support arms side.


----------



## lordhinton

My h80i ones do









Edit just realised I was thinking about my fractal ones -.- I should really sleep


----------



## Adasen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I doubt it has anything to do with the cooler. I would remove the card, reboot the pc, shut it down and reinstall the card. If you have video on the main board, you might also want to check in BIOS and make sure it's shut off, or at least set to detect a PCI graphics card first.


Yeah that was the first thing I tried, thanks for your suggestion though. Looking at the LGA on my board I can see some pins in the bottom left are a bit bent. Could that be causing the PCIE slot to fail? Could I have over tightened the the H55 causing it to crush pins?


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Traditionally, it's frowned upon to multiple post. That goes for just about every forum I frequent.


Love you too! And its just you dont see everything you want to post a comment on at once.... But yea I know the concept I just dont always follow....


----------



## Capta1nKirk

Hey guys









I've been running an H80i now for about 2 weeks or so. Overall I am pleased with it's performance; it certainly holds it's own against mid-high end air cooling and is of course much easier to manage.

The only real criticisms I have are that: (1) the wiring for the SATA/3-pin does seem a little cheap. I don't see it being an issue, but, I think they could do better.; and (2) I really wish they'd have used threaded inserts on the radiator. It seems like there could be a durability issue there for someone that might need or want to remount/change fans etc. often.

In any case, now I guess we'll see how it holds up over time.


----------



## Nightz2k

Just got an H80i, finally caved since I know my case couldn't fit any bigger AIO without some cutting/modding. _(Seriously wanted a Swiftech H220)_ Maybe someday I'll actually invest in a better case with lots of space. But I've had other Corsair AIO's, like the H50 and H70, so I'm familiar with them at least.

Anyways, this 2500k is holding up well at 4.8GHz, max temps with Prime95 was around 72-74c. _(Idles 34-35c on quiet mode)_ The fans definitely get loud, but expected that on full load. When not gaming and just chilling out browsing, it's very quiet. Cosair Link is nice to have no doubt, makes controlling the fans super easy.

*EDIT*: Upgrading to an H100i soon, so this post is irrelevant now.


----------



## mavisky

So pulled my unit down last night to re-apply some arctic silver 5 to the processor and since I have a reservoir modded into my H80 i decided to take a look at the waterflow characteristics through this 1/4" id x 3/8" od tubing.

I'm very disappointed to say the least. There's barely a trickle coming out of this thing. I was concerned that perhaps my pump was going bad and tore the unit down to check for any clogging and nothing was found anywhere. Turned to youtube and sure enough found a video labeled "H100 flow" that showed the same trickle I had from mine. I'd link the video direct but can't access Youtube at work. I realize now that the pump in this thing is the letdown by far, not sure if the H80i/H100i have a better pump but I sincerely hope so. Looking to sell this off and move to a real cold plate/radiator setup now.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> So pulled my unit down last night to re-apply some arctic silver 5 to the processor and since I have a reservoir modded into my H80 i decided to take a look at the waterflow characteristics through this 1/4" id x 3/8" od tubing.
> 
> I'm very disappointed to say the least. There's barely a trickle coming out of this thing. I was concerned that perhaps my pump was going bad and tore the unit down to check for any clogging and nothing was found anywhere. Turned to youtube and sure enough found a video labeled "H100 flow" that showed the same trickle I had from mine. I'd link the video direct but can't access Youtube at work. I realize now that the pump in this thing is the letdown by far, not sure if the H80i/H100i have a better pump but I sincerely hope so. Looking to sell this off and move to a real cold plate/radiator setup now.


From all of the legit reviews I have seen the new pumps are far better.


----------



## Sir Amik Vase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> Turned to youtube and sure enough found a video labeled "H100 flow" that showed the same trickle I had from mine. I'd link the video direct but can't access Youtube at work.






Yeah, that's an incredibly pathetic flow rate... I can urinate faster than that.


----------



## mavisky

Any chance we can get a corsair rep to confirm flow rates per pump?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> So pulled my unit down last night to re-apply some arctic silver 5 to the processor and since I have a reservoir modded into my H80 i decided to take a look at the waterflow characteristics through this 1/4" id x 3/8" od tubing.
> 
> I'm very disappointed to say the least. There's barely a trickle coming out of this thing. I was concerned that perhaps my pump was going bad and tore the unit down to check for any clogging and nothing was found anywhere. Turned to youtube and sure enough found a video labeled "H100 flow" that showed the same trickle I had from mine.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sir Amik Vase*
> 
> Yeah, that's an incredibly pathetic flow rate... I can urinate faster than that.
Click to expand...

*Khan ... "He Tasks Me"* ... famous quote









Are you guys serious? For $95 what did you expect? It's all about the money and "marketing" my friend and Corsair is quite popular and successful for a reason! For what they are (AIO) @ affordable prices you can't beat them for performance/$$$









You want to perform with the "Big Boys" (custom loops) ...

*You gotta "Pay to Play"* ...









CORSAIR job opportunities *HERE*


----------



## Sir Amik Vase

I gotta pay to play, but pay with what? chocolate coins?
I haven't got the real currency for real water cooling









You're right though, for what we spend we get alright performance and a 5 year warranty








We're OCN, we like to complain


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> So pulled my unit down last night to re-apply some arctic silver 5 to the processor and since I have a reservoir modded into my H80 i decided to take a look at the waterflow characteristics through this 1/4" id x 3/8" od tubing.
> 
> I'm very disappointed to say the least. There's barely a trickle coming out of this thing. I was concerned that perhaps my pump was going bad and tore the unit down to check for any clogging and nothing was found anywhere. Turned to youtube and sure enough found a video labeled "H100 flow" that showed the same trickle I had from mine. I'd link the video direct but can't access Youtube at work. I realize now that the pump in this thing is the letdown by far, not sure if the H80i/H100i have a better pump but I sincerely hope so. Looking to sell this off and move to a real cold plate/radiator setup now.


I would check the orientation of the RAD first, but also I have taken apart and tested many of the H100i's I even have a Mod to turn it into a dedicated waterblock, But if it was working good before your problem is that it lost prime, the pump is a magnetic floating propeller type so it can be ran dry but requires priming to flow at all! However if you have been having bad temps you may have a defective one, I had the same problem and decided to tear down one for that reason(why the mod started







) and as it turns out the PCB was putting out hardly any voltage! But since you have dissasymbled yours already the warranty is voided. I have heard though if you call and tell them that it failed as soon as you plugged it in and you heard a pop sound and it started smoking then they will send you a replacement without requiring you to send the old one back(im assuming because they think at that point it is not cost effective to refurbish and resell anyway







I too was discussed by the fact that the damn tubing is so big but only had 1/4ID tubeing and 1/4ID fittings, I actually bored mine out before modding!









PICS of my testing and mod!


----------



## mavisky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Are you guys serious? For $95 what did you expect? It's all about the money and "marketing" my friend and Corsair is quite popular and successful for a reason! For what they are (AIO) @ affordable prices you can't beat them for performance/$$$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You want to perform with the "Big Boys" (custom loops) ...
> 
> *You gotta "Pay to Play"* ...


I actually added a standalone custom loop for my two gpu's, and I wasn't expecting that sort of flow from this Corsair unit, but this is just absurdly low. After opening it up I can see why though as the pump itself is teeny tiny and half of the internals are taken up by the pcb and the connectors for the temp sensor and motor itself. I'd have rather the block been another 1/2" taller and paid another $10 into the price for the pump had I known the flow rate would be THIS weak.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> I would check the orientation of the RAD first, but also I have taken apart and tested many of the H100i's I even have a Mod to turn it into a dedicated waterblock, But if it was working good before your problem is that it lost prime, the pump is a magnetic floating propeller type so it can be ran dry but requires priming to flow at all! However if you have been having bad temps you may have a defective one, I had the same problem and decided to tear down one for that reason(why the mod started
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and as it turns out the PCB was putting out hardly any voltage! But since you have dissasymbled yours already the warranty is voided. I have heard though if you call and tell them that it failed as soon as you plugged it in and you heard a pop sound and it started smoking then they will send you a replacement without requiring you to send the old one back(im assuming because they think at that point it is not cost effective to refurbish and resell anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I too was discussed by the fact that the damn tubing is so big but only had 1/4ID tubeing and 1/4ID fittings, I actually bored mine out before modding!


I ran it in about every configuration possible, the only thing I didn't try was to see how much it would actually pump without a radiator, mainly because that information really isn't relevant. If it's a firehose without a rad and a trickle with one, then who cares, it's the performance in a complete loop we're concerned about, not how fast it can drain a bucket.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> I actually added a standalone custom loop for my two gpu's, and I wasn't expecting that sort of flow from this Corsair unit, but this is just absurdly low. After opening it up I can see why though as the pump itself is teeny tiny and half of the internals are taken up by the pcb and the connectors for the temp sensor and motor itself. I'd have rather the block been another 1/2" taller and paid another $10 into the price for the pump had I known the flow rate would be THIS weak.
> I ran it in about every configuration possible, the only thing I didn't try was to see how much it would actually pump without a radiator, mainly because that information really isn't relevant. If it's a firehose without a rad and a trickle with one, then who cares, *it's the performance in a complete loop we're concerned about,* not how fast it can drain a bucket.


I do understand where you're coming from







You want affordable options, like most of us @OCN that take the time to understand their system and how the components actually work. I'm not going to go into a whole dissertation on economics and "profitable" market niches', but you do hit on the crux of the matter (in bold) above, and I'd add at "what cost" dollars wise.

The Swiftech H220 finally comes to market this Monday *[HERE]* , and yea most of us wouldn't have minded if the H220 pump would have come stock on a H100(i)/H80(i) but it's just not economically feasible even for $20 more. The H220 looks really promising for filling that "niche market" @ appx $140 ...
Only time and "economics" will tell if it becomes a success like Corsairs Hydro Series or becomes an afterthought "Dog" like the Thermaltake Big Water series









*HERE* is a pretty reputable review on the H220 ... and if it were available when I purchased my H100, I "may" have forked out the extra $50 for it's superior components but performance wise it would not be signifigantly noticeable for my OC/setup ...


----------



## mavisky

Honestly I'd be happy with something between the H220 and the current H100/H80 pump. I didn't expect it to be able to run additional cooling blocks when I bought it, but with the radiator it has the system could certainly perform better with 3/8" id tubing and a better pump and I don't believe that would change that much in regards to pricing, at least not so much as to push it into direct competition with the H220. Had the H220 been available I would have bought it in a heart beat, but the Apogee Drive II was the only thing close at the time and that's $135 all on it's own if memory serves me correct.

I just thought something was broken with my unit when I saw that flow rate it was that shocking.


----------



## dhrandy

I have the H50, does that count?


----------



## pc-illiterate

the h100 supposedly pumps 2 lpm, or 30 gph, according to corsair. a small 'real' pump puts out roughly/about 100 gph.
the corsair units are fine if you want loud expensive cooling and not big heatsink air cooling. i loved my h100 but it cant compare with a real loop (H220).


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> the h100 supposedly pumps 2 lpm, or 30 gph, according to corsair. a small 'real' pump puts out roughly/about 100 gph.
> the corsair units are fine if you want loud expensive cooling and not big heatsink air cooling. i loved my h100 but it cant compare with a real loop (H220).


It does at the Highest setting, a big upgrade compared to the old pumps....


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> I actually added a standalone custom loop for my two gpu's, and I wasn't expecting that sort of flow from this Corsair unit, but this is just absurdly low. After opening it up I can see why though as the pump itself is teeny tiny and half of the internals are taken up by the pcb and the connectors for the temp sensor and motor itself. I'd have rather the block been another 1/2" taller and paid another $10 into the price for the pump had I known the flow rate would be THIS weak.
> I ran it in about every configuration possible, the only thing I didn't try was to see how much it would actually pump without a radiator, mainly because that information really isn't relevant. If it's a firehose without a rad and a trickle with one, then who cares, it's the performance in a complete loop we're concerned about, not how fast it can drain a bucket.


Its more relevant than you think because RADs dont produce hardly any drag, but a clogged one can really give a bad impresson on the pump lol. I have had a corsair aio unit have some copper clogging the Rad fitting right out of the box before. Not really mad about it, the test them all, I think it broke loose during shipment. And how "fast it can drain a bucket" directly affects how it performs in a loop and it is the best measure of how it performs, GPM, LPM, Head pressure, Lift height, PSI, it all matters! Just trying to help....


----------



## Electroneng

Thread Cleaned! Everyone, let's discuss the topic without insults.

Thanks


----------



## Tonza

Bought some new SP fans to my H100i and exhaust AF fan to case, now matches to color scheme


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electroneng*
> 
> Thread Cleaned! Everyone, let's discuss the topic without insults.
> 
> Thanks


Thankyou so much!


----------



## Sir Amik Vase

Tonza that cable management is superb!
And that colour co-ordination.
I'm very jealous.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Caint wait to get mine looking clean, still have to install the PSU but im almost done setting up my full parrallel system, I have a Modded H100i's for the CPU and the third GPU(HD6970), and H70's for the first two GPUs(HD6990)


----------



## Sir Amik Vase

That res is crazy!

Heres my much less impressive build...
That cable management took me an hour to do and it looks awful


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Amik Vase*
> 
> That res is crazy!


YEP and so am I! A Bacardi 151 bottle and about a Gallon of coolant running threw that system! A 12v Flowjet industrial pump that still moves about 60GPH @ a quiet 5 volts!


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adasen*
> 
> Yeah that was the first thing I tried, thanks for your suggestion though. Looking at the LGA on my board I can see some pins in the bottom left are a bit bent. Could that be causing the PCIE slot to fail? Could I have over tightened the the H55 causing it to crush pins?


How did this turn out? How bent were the pins? I wouldn't have thought you could damage a cpu or socket by tightening one of these coolers, but I suppose it's possible.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Amik Vase*
> 
> That res is crazy!
> 
> Heres my much less impressive build...
> That cable management took me an hour to do and it looks awful


Naaa, It looks clean







Thats the main thing, just the few touches you did makes a world of difference!


----------



## NFL

Quick question-I'm moving parts around in my rig and as a result, I'm giving my uncle's FM2 rig my H100. Problem is that I don't know where the AMD mounting bracket is for it...any way to order one?


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFL*
> 
> Quick question-I'm moving parts around in my rig and as a result, I'm giving my uncle's FM2 rig my H100. Problem is that I don't know where the AMD mounting bracket is for it...any way to order one?


Yea that should be real easy and cheap! I would look on ebay because most Intel users just sell them after buying the kit!









STATEMENT RETRACTED!!! I JUST LOOKED AND THERE AIRENT ANY







SO JUST GO TO THE CORSAIR SITE AND ITS LIKE $15. HERE IS A LINK:

http://www.corsair.com/en/parts/cooling-parts/hydro-series-h60-h80-h100-universal-bracket-kit.html


----------



## PedroC1999

^^^ That is one of the reasons why Corsair made the magnetic mount and use the usual backplate, So It help people like us assemble quicker and less chnace of losing parts etc.

Maybe make a athread on the Wanted section see if any fellow OCN users have any lying around


----------



## Sir Amik Vase

I thought your location was London UK for a second, I could've sent you the AMD bracket if you were here
As said, If you put a wanted post in the wanted section I'm sure there will be somebody willing to send you one


----------



## MCCSolutions

I have like every braket immaginable for the Corsair stuff except the H100 lol its kinda funny. I have H50, H70, H80i, H100i, H55


----------



## PhantomTaco

Hey guys quick question:
I love my h100i, but it has one big flaw in my eyes: you can't speed up the led color/brightening speed. It just happens so painfully slow that the shades show easily and kinda detracts from what could be a cool feature. Anyone know if there's a way to speed it up somehow?


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Hey guys quick question:
> I love my h100i, but it has one big flaw in my eyes: you can't speed up the led color/brightening speed. It just happens so painfully slow that the shades show easily and kinda detracts from what could be a cool feature. Anyone know if there's a way to speed it up somehow?


Do you have it updated to the new firmware and are you using Corsair Link V2?


----------



## Sir Amik Vase

I think he wants the cycling speed to change for the LED but as far as I know the corsair link v1/v2 software doesn't allow for that.
You could probably look and see if there is a value in the registry for corsair link's cycle speed


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Amik Vase*
> 
> I think he wants the cycling speed to change for the LED but as far as I know the corsair link v1/v2 software doesn't allow for that.
> You could probably look and see if there is a value in the registry for corsair link's cycle speed


Agreed!


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Do you have it updated to the new firmware and are you using Corsair Link V2?


Hey bud







, yes I am up to date with the firmware and software (corsair link 2.2, hydro usb 2.0).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Amik Vase*
> 
> I think he wants the cycling speed to change for the LED but as far as I know the corsair link v1/v2 software doesn't allow for that.
> You could probably look and see if there is a value in the registry for corsair link's cycle speed


Yeah that's what I'm looking to do, I'll do some searching in the registry but don't think I'd want to play with anything lol, it just seems like something corsair should have don ea long time ago...


----------



## Capt

How do you guys like the H100i? Any complaints you guys have? Would it be worth upgrading from a 212+ to 100i because I want to have less noise?


----------



## Sir Amik Vase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Capt*
> 
> How do you guys like the H100i? Any complaints you guys have? Would it be worth upgrading from a 212+ to 100i because I want to have less noise?


The H100i would be a good upgrade to the 212+ in terms of noise and max temps, you'd probably see a 5 or 6c reduction with full load.
In terms of sound that's entirely dependant on the fans. The stock fans the HXXi series come with are incredibly loud at full whack, not quite AMD reference GPU cooler loud but still pretty loud. I'd recommend getting two noctua NF-F12's for pushing, with my H80i I keep them at 1200rpm and they're pretty much silent.
That said though the noctua's are pretty pricey at £18 a pop but are the only silent yet high static pressure fans that I can give you my impressions of from actual use.

EDIT:
Why am I being so helpful on the hydro thread. I must really have nothing to do these days


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Amik Vase*
> 
> EDIT:
> Why am I being so helpful on the hydro thread. I must really have nothing to do these days


Don't know but what you wrote is pretty much exactly what I would have.
I don't know of any off the shelf cooling that comes with fans that can compete with the F12's or the equivalent from another company. So if you want quiet you will have to work in the price of some quality fans.


----------



## Capt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Amik Vase*
> 
> The H100i would be a good upgrade to the 212+ in terms of noise and max temps, you'd probably see a 5 or 6c reduction with full load.
> In terms of sound that's entirely dependant on the fans. The stock fans the HXXi series come with are incredibly loud at full whack, not quite AMD reference GPU cooler loud but still pretty loud. I'd recommend getting two noctua NF-F12's for pushing, with my H80i I keep them at 1200rpm and they're pretty much silent.
> That said though the noctua's are pretty pricey at £18 a pop but are the only silent yet high static pressure fans that I can give you my impressions of from actual use.
> 
> EDIT:
> Why am I being so helpful on the hydro thread. I must really have nothing to do these days


+rep. I was hoping for more than 5-6c drop in temp. I currently get 50c under full load with my 1090T at 3.8Ghz.


----------



## Charris231

Waiting for a tracking number(h80i) then im going to the 4.0ghz club. Might need some SMALL help!


----------



## xSneak

Would fractal design silent series R2 140mm fans be an improvement over the stock h100i fans?
Would I be able to control them over the corsair link?

I find my setup to be pretty noisy even on the quiet fans settings.


----------



## PedroC1999

The H100i uses 120mm fans, they woudlnt fit. Also those fans are optomised for AirFlow, Not Static Preasure.

For example a fan with 120CFM but a low statc preasure (<1) would struggle with a radiator. But a 70CFM fan with high static preasure (>4) Will perform vbery well with radiators.

The fans with the H100i are very good but sometimes noisy. You wont be able to control any other fan apart from the Corsair ones.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xSneak*
> 
> Would fractal design silent series R2 140mm fans be an improvement over the stock h100i fans?
> Would I be able to control them over the corsair link?
> 
> I find my setup to be pretty noisy even on the quiet fans settings.


H100i uses 120mm and those are 140mm. Also the R2s have pretty poor airflow compared to the H100i ones. They are very quiet though.


----------



## Sir Amik Vase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedroc1999*
> 
> You wont be able to control any other fan apart from the Corsair ones.


This is incorrect.
Corsair link will work with any 4-pin PWM fans, however you will have to use custom fan curves instead of using the preset choices.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xSneak*
> 
> Would fractal design silent series R2 140mm fans be an improvement over the stock h100i fans?


You should try these if you can afford them, or these which are a little cheaper. Apologies for UK stores, I'm sure you can find US equivalents.


----------



## PedroC1999

Wait! WHAT!

I have read almost everywhere that the fans will run at 100% be it 3pin or 4pin! Is this true?


----------



## Sir Amik Vase

Well I don't know why people are saying that, I am able to use any of my PWM fans with corsair link without issue. An anomaly I may be but this is from personal experience.


----------



## shaunol

This thread is absolutely massive so hopefully I'm not sounding like a broken record here.
I have a new PC that I'm building, it's a 3770 CPU with a Gigabyte 7870 2GB: http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Mini-Displayport-PCI-Express-Graphic-GV-R787OC-2GD/dp/B007PJVB3Y
It's in an Antec One case: http://www.amazon.com/Antec-One-Computer-Case/dp/B006TVQU6C
This case has a rear 120mm outlet and a top 120mm outlet
I'm looking at replacing the CPU cooler with a Corsair H60 or H80 at the very least.
In addition I want to try and add the GPU into the loop if possible, has anyone done this using off the shelf parts like these Corsair coolers? I was wanting to put a 120mm rad on the rear of the case and a 120mm rad on the top of the case.
I don't mind using an aftermarket block on the GPU itself obviously but would like to retain the self-contained setup the Corsair has, I have a feeling the built in pump on the Corsair CPU block alone just won't be powerful enough for a bigger loop like that? Do I have any simple options or am I looking at a custom WC setup at this point?
I also notice there's this product, but don't like the fact there's still a fan on chip http://www.arctic.ac/en/p/cooling/vga/589/accelero-hybrid-7970.html?c=2182
I won't be doing any overclocking, I'm just interested in a quiet PC.

Cheers


----------



## Sir Amik Vase

A custom water loop would be what you're after.
The only compromise I could think of is having two H60's, one for the GPU and one for the CPU but It'd look a lot cleaner if you went with a custom loop.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Amik Vase*
> 
> A custom water loop would be what you're after.
> The only compromise I could think of is having two H60's, one for the GPU and one for the CPU but It'd look a lot cleaner if you went with a custom loop.


or the swiftech h220 which is sold as an all-in-one cooler but is in reality, a full fledged loop that can be expanded to your hearts content.


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> or the swiftech h220 which is sold as an all-in-one cooler but is in reality, a full fledged loop that can be expanded to your hearts content.


Good point, But not the kind of thing you want to be saying when surrounded by Corsair Geeks.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedroc1999*
> 
> Good point, But not the kind of thing you want to be saying when surrounded by Corsair Geeks.


its no different than saying "buy an xspc rs/rx 240 kit and then a gpu block."


----------



## xSneak

thanks for the feedback.

I got the fans from my fractal r4 case that is going to be a home file server later on this year.

I have the radiator on the top of my 500r, so I could bolt the fans to the case and leave the radiator there although it would be loose.

I have the fans pulling air if that makes a difference.


----------



## shaunol

All good, cheers for the info guys
Main thing is I want to use the stock 120mm outlets so dual 120mm rads is probably ideal for me
Think I'll stick with just WCing the CPU for now, doing a full custom setup is a bit out of my league at the moment


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> its no different than saying "buy an xspc rs/rx 240 kit and then a gpu block."


Glad your still posting here! You are still welcome.......... Freedom of speech


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Amik Vase*
> 
> This is incorrect.
> Corsair link will work with any 4-pin PWM fans, however you will have to use custom fan curves instead of using the preset choices.


True Dat!


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Glad your still posting here! You are still welcome.......... Freedom of speech


still welcome? everyone is welcome in any thread/sub-forum until theyre banned.

shaunol, a real full loop is nothing to assemble. if i can do it, anyone can. and yeah, its either hang the rad off the back or mount it above the case. or you could 'mod' by cutting a nice big ol' hole to mount a 240 or 360 rad. i went from 63*C p95 load temps in 65*F ambient with h100(push/pull fans) to 59*C with 72*F ambients with my loop. now the lil woman doesnt complain shes cold while she plays plants vs zombies...
i have 70*F ambients right now and cpu is still warm. i'll give ya a beter comparison here real quick.

*EDIT* changed 67* ambients to 70*F ambients


----------



## iwalkwithedead

I know that I haven't shared in a while but wanted to show my setup again, because I added new parts and lights and such, along with a different case.

Was installed in NZXT Phantom 410 push with 2xCorsair SP120mm QE, Now installed in NZXT Phantom 820 with push with 2xCorsair SP120mm QE, pulled with 2xNZXT 200mm


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Phantom 820


----------



## pc-illiterate

ok, 70*F ambients, not 65 but you get the idea.


fans are bgears blaster 120s and 212+ stock fan running max 70% on top 360 and front 240 has h100 fans running on 500r fan controller at low speed. i could get temps down if i could get the 240 heat out of the case before it gets pulled through the 360 rad.
as i said before, i loved my h100 when i had it installed. push excaliburs max 90% and pull bgears at 100% max. i still hit 63*C with 66-68*F ambient temp in p95. with a 212+ i hit 64*C with about 60-62*F ambients. no idea what my ambients really were.
would loved to have seen what an h100i would have done.


----------



## NorKris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> still welcome? everyone is welcome in any thread/sub-forum until theyre banned.
> 
> shaunol, a real full loop is nothing to assemble. if i can do it, anyone can. and yeah, its either hang the rad off the back or mount it above the case. or you could 'mod' by cutting a nice big ol' hole to mount a 240 or 360 rad. i went from 63*C p95 load temps in 65*F ambient with h100(push/pull fans) to 59*C with 72*F ambients with my loop. now the lil woman doesnt complain shes cold while she plays plants vs zombies...
> i have 70*F ambients right now and cpu is still warm. i'll give ya a beter comparison here real quick.
> 
> *EDIT* changed 67* ambients to 70*F ambients


why are u mixing celsius and fahrenheit? its so confusing


----------



## Vrait

Rebuild tomorrow after work. Just waiting for my case to come in tomorrow now!


----------



## ebeeze

Hey guys, just wanted to add myself as well! Have a H100 paired with an FX-8120; here he is.

Running at 4240 MHz atm.


----------



## Xavin83

Quick question, the h80i pump shouldn't be hearable over case fans right?


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xavin83*
> 
> Quick question, the h80i pump shouldn't be hearable over case fans right?


I dont hear mine. Granted right now I have 2 or 3 140mm fans running close to max -- But before that, I didnt hear them even when all my case fans were silent


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaunol*
> 
> This thread is absolutely massive so hopefully I'm not sounding like a broken record here.
> I have a new PC that I'm building, it's a 3770 CPU with a Gigabyte 7870 2GB: http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Mini-Displayport-PCI-Express-Graphic-GV-R787OC-2GD/dp/B007PJVB3Y
> It's in an Antec One case: http://www.amazon.com/Antec-One-Computer-Case/dp/B006TVQU6C
> This case has a rear 120mm outlet and a top 120mm outlet
> I'm looking at replacing the CPU cooler with a Corsair H60 or H80 at the very least.
> In addition I want to try and add the GPU into the loop if possible, has anyone done this using off the shelf parts like these Corsair coolers? I was wanting to put a 120mm rad on the rear of the case and a 120mm rad on the top of the case.
> I don't mind using an aftermarket block on the GPU itself obviously but would like to retain the self-contained setup the Corsair has, I have a feeling the built in pump on the Corsair CPU block alone just won't be powerful enough for a bigger loop like that? Do I have any simple options or am I looking at a custom WC setup at this point?
> I also notice there's this product, but don't like the fact there's still a fan on chip http://www.arctic.ac/en/p/cooling/vga/589/accelero-hybrid-7970.html?c=2182
> I won't be doing any overclocking, I'm just interested in a quiet PC.
> 
> Cheers


If you have room to mount two of these coolers (if two rads will fit into your case), you can use one H60 or H80 on the cpu, and one on the gpu. You have to use a mount like this though:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1247567/h60-h80-h100-installed-on-gpu-bracket-inside#post_17085499

Of course, you can purchase a closed loop cooler specifically for video cards:

http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX39770

Unfortunately they're a little pricy, but it looks like a really sweet cooler. If I thought I could fit one between my two cards, I would purchase two of them.

As for full loops, the entire point of a closed loop is that there's no maintenance. I like the convenience of a closed loop, as do most of the people here (this being the Hydro Club).


----------



## Xavin83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> I dont hear mine. Granted right now I have 2 or 3 140mm fans running close to max -- But before that, I didnt hear them even when all my case fans were silent


Ok, thank you.
Im using 2 sp quiet edition at 12v and 2 af 140mm quiet edition one at 7v and one at 12v and i hear my pump, no luck with corsair products


----------



## Sir Amik Vase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xavin83*
> 
> Ok, thank you.
> Im using 2 sp quiet edition at 12v and 2 af 140mm quiet edition one at 7v and one at 12v and i hear my pump, no luck with corsair products


Have you checked to see if there is air in the pump?
Just take off the block and turn it around so any trapped air would float up the tube.
This worked for a sound problem coming from my block when i first tested it for leaks.


----------



## PedroC1999

Could you guys have a look at my thread?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1371101/how-to-pull-data-from-corsair-link/0_40


----------



## Xavin83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Amik Vase*
> 
> Have you checked to see if there is air in the pump?
> Just take off the block and turn it around so any trapped air would float up the tube.
> This worked for a sound problem coming from my block when i first tested it for leaks.


I actually forgot about that so i removed the cooler and connected to another computer along with an h100.
I compared both of them and the h100 was nearly silent, had to have the ear against the pump to hear it and the h80i had that loud spinning sound.
So i twisted and turned it to no avail.
Im gonna send it back, at first i suspected my psu since i had that issue with the pump noise on the h100, but since it was the same on the other psu i doubt thats the case.


----------



## Zeus

I thought I would share the temps I'm getting right now on my i7-3930K under a H100 @ 96% load. It just shows you when you get the air flow sorted in a case, it makes a big difference


----------



## NorKris

Stock Clocks?


----------



## tomtom101

looking for spare socket screws for h100i for the pump block mounting the thumb screws can go on but the fittings were bent







need replacing to much to anneal them and bend back ino place not keen on snapping the mountings. all other parts are 100% please help.


----------



## mikemartinco

not sure what you need, post a pic of what you need and ill check my h60 and h100 box for you, i dont need them.


----------



## userman122

I ordered my H100i a few day ago. Can't wait to get it in my case! Hoping to be able to OC my i7-860 to 4Ghz. 4.2 Ghz would be amazing though.


----------



## 1EvilMan

I'm in!
Installed the H100 during the week and it's awesome. My FX-6300 has a mild OC to 4.2Ghz and it handles it just fine on medium never getting above 43C.


----------



## darkphantom

Just picked up 4 cougar vertex cf-v12hb.

It will be a much needed improvement over the stock fans...sad to lose the ability to control the fans on my antec via the rear panel, but meh! The h100 will do the job!


----------



## SirWooties

How are the new improved Hydro Series go in regards to reliability? I'm aware some people with the older models had leaking issues (destroying other components) but has there been any reports of that happening to the newer versions?

The new versions definitively has a much beefier water cable pump design which should theoretically remedy that issue. I currently have the old H60 and was looking towards buying the H80i.


----------



## sobi1984

hello ,
i need your help.. i am planning to change again fans to my h100i..
which fans do you suggest for better performance and silent of course..

thank you in advance


----------



## NorKris

noctua or corsairs quiet fans for silence.. performance, well the corsairs fans on full speed will give u very good temps not many fans out there that lower the temps very much
(..at 2700rpm they keep the cpu cool and sounds like a airplane







)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGK-QO8yf6Y fan testing (corsairs fans doing good, NO dont look at the girl all the time, pay attention to the testing







)


----------



## xplode-bg

Here is mine : H100i


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkphantom*
> 
> 
> 
> Just picked up 4 cougar vertex cf-v12hb.
> 
> It will be a much needed improvement over the stock fans...sad to lose the ability to control the fans on my antec via the rear panel, but meh! The h100 will do the job!


I replaced the fans on my H60 v2 with Cougars in a push/pull...








http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181030

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553012
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553006


----------



## Lextax14

Hey, I just got my new rig set up, but I was wondering if my temps were normal. Most of my cores run at 53 under load, but one is at 47. Stock clocks, I was hoping that would make it easiest for someone else to compare.

I'm using a 3570k and H110 with stock fans at the moment. I was wondering if anyone suspects it's a seating issue. I'm using Prolimatech PK-1 by the way.

Edit: Room temp is 20C give or take half a point.


----------



## ebeeze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xplode-bg*
> 
> Here is mine : H100i


Couldn't help but notice you have a Chaser MK-1 as well, and I must say, it looks f****in bangin'! Nice cable management; I literally just went through a small painful process to make my components look much "cleaner" if you will. Here's mine and please add me as well!

Sheldon and his H100.


Here's what I was working with before the clean up.


----------



## x2ezx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sobi1984*
> 
> hello ,
> i need your help.. i am planning to change again fans to my h100i..
> which fans do you suggest for better performance and silent of course..
> 
> thank you in advance


Scythe typhoon, silent at full speed.


----------



## darkphantom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x2ezx*
> 
> Scythe typhoon, silent at full speed.


The GT AP-15s are super smooth and super silent but have odd harmonic issues are certain RPMs...

My brother runs 3 in his custom WC loop and there is this annoying humming sound. SUPER good build quality with the double ball bearings.


----------



## Snuckie7

GT AP-15's are certainly not silent at full speed.

I can even hear my GT AP-14's from across my room.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snuckie7*
> 
> GT AP-15's are certainly not silent at full speed.
> 
> I can even hear my GT AP-14's from across my room.


no good rad fans are silent. you can only find the 'quietest' which noise/performance wise, the gt ap-15 is.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sobi1984*
> 
> hello ,
> i need your help.. i am planning to change again fans to my h100i..
> which fans do you suggest for better performance and silent of course..
> thank you in advance
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> noctua or corsairs quiet fans for silence.. performance, well the corsairs fans on full speed will give u very good temps not many fans out there that lower the temps very much
> (..at 2700rpm they keep the cpu cool and sounds like a airplane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGK-QO8yf6Y fan testing (corsairs fans doing good, NO dont look at the girl all the time, pay attention to the testing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
Click to expand...

Nice find on that video despite the distracting physique







, and rather "timid" audio, it's an excellent "real world" comparison of fans for the H100 which is applicable to the "i" series as well.
My big gripe is why didn't she turn the H100 stock fans down to the "Low" setting (appx 1350rpm) and re-run the test(s)







You would have seen only a 3c-4c increase in load temps while putting them around the same noise levels as the Noctua NF-F12's, trust me I've owned them and have an almost identical setup to hers. The NF-12's are only slightly quieter when you actually put them up against the resistance of a radiator, the other flaw with her noise test







... Additionally I'd love to have seen the GT AP-15's in the test, and also what many diehards consider to be even better especially for the Price, the *"XSPC Xinruilian 1650"* ... it's a $9 fan at Amazon *HERE*









Read more about Static Pressures/Performance for the AP-15's / XSPC Xinruilian 1650 and others HERE

If money is no object, replace Corsair's fans to your hearts content. *BUT* It's hard to beat Corsair's original engineering, even more so with the "i" series fans for Performance/Cost/Noise ... They perform well and are fairly quiet on the "Low" settings (1500rpm range) but also have the advantage to crank the rpm's up for additional performance for bench testing etc ... If you want truly quiet/near silent fans your performance will suffer, it's just plain Physics, as touched on above ...


----------



## PedroC1999

quick question... What is the thickness of the H100i radiator? Is it 27mm?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedroc1999*
> 
> quick question... What is the thickness of the H100i radiator? Is it 27mm?


Yep 27mm.


----------



## PedroC1999

What are the barbs and tube size? If i were to change the tubing etc


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Nice find on that video despite the distracting physique
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , and rather "timid" audio, it's an excellent "real world" comparison of fans for the H100 which is applicable to the "i" series as well.
> My big gripe is why didn't she turn the H100 stock fans down to the "Low" setting (appx 1350rpm) and re-run the test(s)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You would have seen only a 3c-4c increase in load temps while putting them around the same noise levels as the Noctua NF-F12's, trust me I've owned them and have an almost identical setup to hers. The NF-12's are only slightly quieter when you actually put them up against the resistance of a radiator, the other flaw with her noise test
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Additionally I'd love to have seen the GT AP-15's in the test, and also what many diehards consider to be even better especially for the Price, the *"XSPC Xinruilian 1650"* ... it's a $9 fan at Amazon *HERE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Read more about Static Pressures/Performance for the AP-15's / XSPC Xinruilian 1650 and others HERE
> 
> 
> 
> If money is no object, replace Corsair's fans to your hearts content. *BUT* It's hard to beat Corsair's original engineering, even more so with the "i" series fans for Performance/Cost/Noise ... They perform well and are fairly quiet on the "Low" settings (1500rpm range) but also have the advantage to crank the rpm's up for additional performance for bench testing etc ... If you want truly quiet/near silent fans your performance will suffer, it's just plain Physics, as touched on above ...


Nice reminder. Many people don't realize that those awesome quiet fans they purchased are not going to perform the best. It's a constant hunt to find the fans that perform well while being quiet (AP-15, Yate Loons). The *best* performing fans are not going to be quiet fans. This goes for any fans, not just rad fans.

Another good example is the 200mm fan in the front of many Corsair cases. I use a 166 CFM NZXT fan, which is very loud at maximum RPM, but performs awesomely. So, when I turn it down to minimum RPM, I still get good performance, and it's pretty quiet as well. If I'm ubar gaming or benchmarking, I'll crank it and not mind the noise because I know it's giving me great airflow.


----------



## kizwan

I'm also prefer performance over look or noise. That's why I'm still using the stock fans that came with H100. They kinda loud for less than a minute when cold boot but my computer almost stay on all the time anyway & it's not really noisy even when under load (gaming/stressing).


----------



## PhantomTaco

Thought I'd post a photo of my build now that it's more or less done


EDIT: No idea why it flipped the picture...


----------



## mikemartinco

mmm first purple build and its executed nicely. aahhh purple, the color of royalty









can we get a nice night shot?

edit again, i guess it is the color of royalty, theres a damn titan in thur LoL


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Thought I'd post a photo of my build now that it's more or less done
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: No idea why it flipped the picture..
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Very NICE build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... pictures? not so much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... take the dang door off and give us some benching temps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find it interesting how popular Corsair AIO's are ... you obviously have a huge budget, Twin Titan's yikes I can only dream, yet you chose an H100i over the others in what is now a very healthy, competitive AIO market ... Can't beat the warranty right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AND with $2000+ worth of GPU's right below it ... I Can See Why
Click to expand...


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemartinco*
> 
> mmm first purple build and its executed nicely. aahhh purple, the color of royalty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can we get a nice night shot?
> 
> edit again, i guess it is the color of royalty, theres a damn titan in thur LoL


Haha the color is caused by the NZXT Hue, it cycles through colors, but yeah quite proud of it overall
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Thought I'd post a photo of my build now that it's more or less done
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: No idea why it flipped the picture..
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Very NICE build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... pictures? not so much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... take the dang door off and give us some benching temps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find it interesting how popular Corsair AIO's are ... you obviously have a huge budget, Twin Titan's yikes I can only dream, yet you chose an H100i over the others in what is now a very healthy, competitive AIO market ... Can't beat the warranty right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AND with $2000+ worth of GPU's right below it ... I Can See Why
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I haven't been able to take a decent picture of it yet lmao. Here's one with the door open though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I actually switched to the H100i from a full on watercooling loop before. I needed to downsize to a smaller case (meant less radiator mounts), and one that wouldn't weigh as much overall, while still keeping the inside as aesthetically pleasing as possible. So the H100i was a perfect fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The only thing I want is for them to allow you to speed up how fast it cycles through colors/fades. FWIW here's what my build was like before with a 690:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Right benching temps lol. Well normally on P95 fwith my cpu @ 4.8ghz 1.304v it's around 78C with the fans on quiet mode and my case fans on low speed.
Click to expand...


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I'm also prefer performance over look or noise. That's why I'm still using the stock fans that came with H100. They kinda loud for less than a minute when cold boot but my computer almost stay on all the time anyway & it's not really noisy even when under load (gaming/stressing).


That's a good point. Many people don't realize that fan controllers will often ramp a fan up to full speed when a computer is first turned on, and then slowly reduce it as the computer boots up. Some even think this is unusual behavior but it's quite normal. I'm not positive why they do this. I suppose the controller could be testing the fan to get the full range the fan is capable of, but it could be some other reason.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Haha the color is caused by the NZXT Hue, it cycles through colors, but yeah quite proud of it overall
> I haven't been able to take a decent picture of it yet lmao. Here's one with the door open though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I actually switched to the H100i from a full on watercooling loop before. I needed to downsize to a smaller case (meant less radiator mounts), and one that wouldn't weigh as much overall, while still keeping the inside as aesthetically pleasing as possible. So the H100i was a perfect fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The only thing I want is for them to allow you to speed up how fast it cycles through colors/fades. FWIW here's what my build was like before with a 690:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Right benching temps lol. Well normally on P95 fwith my cpu @ 4.8ghz 1.304v it's around 78C with the fans on quiet mode and my case fans on low speed.


Glad to hear the Hue works so well for you. I have one on order for my system. I'll also be using two Casino fans

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tj2SNDQNb2U

inside the case. I'm not sure what positions I'll be putting them in, but they will only be used as case fans since they suck on rads. I wish I could sync them with the Hue.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> That's a good point. Many people don't realize that fan controllers will often ramp a fan up to full speed when a computer is first turned on, and then slowly reduce it as the computer boots up. Some even think this is unusual behavior but it's quite normal. I'm not positive why they do this. I suppose the controller could be testing the fan to get the full range the fan is capable of, but it could be some other reason.
> Glad to hear the Hue works so well for you. I have one on order for my system. I'll also be using two Casino fans
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tj2SNDQNb2U
> 
> inside the case. I'm not sure what positions I'll be putting them in, but they will only be used as case fans since they suck on rads. I wish I could sync them with the Hue.


TBH the Hue is decent, not amazing. In the end I've come to the conclusion that LEDs just aren't as good at lighting up cases as a cold cathode. Its still nice, but the dispersion you get from a cathode just makes things look better.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Sorry for double posting, but I've got a legitimate question. I was wondering anyone here using a 3570k @ 4.8ghz? If so what temps are you getting on load with something like p95 or linpack? I want to know whether or not my temps are too high.


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Sorry for double posting, but I've got a legitimate question. I was wondering anyone here using a 3570k @ 4.8ghz? If so what temps are you getting on load with something like p95 or linpack? I want to know whether or not my temps are too high.


It's gonna differ for everyone bc of the voltage it takes to run at 4.8. What are your temps? I can run 5.0ghz @ 1.375v stable on my chip and with the h100i I'm right under 90c. I don't run it at that ever, but I know how far I can push my 3570k.

tappin from the Note II


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> It's gonna differ for everyone bc of the voltage it takes to run at 4.8. What are your temps? I can run 5.0ghz @ 1.375v stable on my chip and with the h100i I'm right under 90c. I don't run it at that ever, but I know how far I can push my 3570k.
> 
> tappin from the Note II


1.308v @ 85C max, normally hovers around 78-80


----------



## darkphantom

I am seriously contemplating repainting my h100 radiator but wanted to know if it will affect the performance in any way? Also, what paint should I use if I do decide to go this route?

Thanks in advanced


----------



## dusters16

has anyone here used cooler master r4 fans on their h100i? I am using 2, but the software can't control one properly, so it stays on max rpm preset, otherwise it would spin up and down constantly. the other one doesn't start up either

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G LTE using Tapatalk 2


----------



## 1EvilMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkphantom*
> 
> I am seriously contemplating repainting my h100 radiator but wanted to know if it will affect the performance in any way? Also, what paint should I use if I do decide to go this route?
> 
> Thanks in advanced


If you go easy in the fin area so it doesn't clog them I would think it would be ok. Obviously the more paint the greater chance it will start to act as insulation or prevent air flow. I would be surprised to see more than a couple degrees difference with a light coat.
For paint, I would use a regular spray can enamel.


----------



## darkphantom

air brush will work? I just want some really low-density paint that will adhere to metal.


----------



## Mergatroid

^ What colour are you thinking of? You can get paint specifically made for radiators. Something to consider is that you can get Wrinkle paint that wrinkles when it dries. This would actually increase the surface area and should theoretically improve cooling.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=wrinkle+spray+paint&hl=en&safe=off&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=FkRSUfW3EsfryAGU3ICIAQ&ved=0CFcQsAQ&biw=1309&bih=764

These are a bunch of pictures to give you an idea of what I'm talking about. I've only used the black myself.


----------



## darkphantom

My assumption was the wrinkling would create a non-needed layer, in essence micro-air pockets that would prevent the radiator from functioning properly if painted on the fins?


----------



## Ronbob

I wanna join. just bought and installed mine.


----------



## Granzon

Hi guys

I received corsair H110, and I want to test run it outside of case for leakage.
Is this the correct way/method?


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Granzon*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> I received corsair H110, and I want to test run it outside of case for leakage.
> Is this the correct way/method?


That should work just fine as long as you keep the Rad higher than the pump. But also you should kink the tubes for a minute one at a time and observe for leaks. the only other thing you can do is rotate the fittings to see if you produce any leaks. But I have tested the H70, H50, H100i at 50PSI with no leaks so you should be good unless your unit is defective!


----------



## Devildog83

Hey Ronbob, you are eveywhere. Welcome to the hydro club. I will be getting more Platinum Labels from the rep so if you want one send me a PM and when they show I will send you one. It might take a couple weeks due to customs and all. The last ones did.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkphantom*
> 
> I am seriously contemplating repainting my h100 radiator but wanted to know if it will affect the performance in any way? Also, what paint should I use if I do decide to go this route?
> 
> Thanks in advanced


I reseached paint when I was contemplating painting my mobo heatsinks and what I found was the paint used on say the Crosshair V mobos was ceramic, it dissapates heat very well. You can get some at most autoparts stores. They use it for engines so you know it takes heat very well. Jut a suggestion. I used it to paint my GPU cover so far.


----------



## 1EvilMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkphantom*
> 
> air brush will work? I just want some really low-density paint that will adhere to metal.


I think an airbrush would work well. They cover well with a very fine spray.


----------



## darkphantom

Thanks for the input gents, I just need to figure out a theme. This guy's car's interior has me inspired for a cool look with artsy tid-bits:

http://ultimateklasse.com/2013/03/sal-benantis-e92-m3/

primarily this part:


----------



## Erick Silver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkphantom*
> 
> Thanks for the input gents, I just need to figure out a theme. This guy's car's interior has me inspired for a cool look with artsy tid-bits:
> 
> http://ultimateklasse.com/2013/03/sal-benantis-e92-m3/
> 
> primarily this part:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sorry, I know its a personal preference thing. But that paint job on a BMW makes me wanna puke. What did they do, give the car to a 3 year old?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Sorry, I know its a personal preference thing. But that paint job on a BMW makes me wanna puke. What did they do, give the car to a 3 year old?


its 'art'...


----------



## braindrain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Sorry, I know its a personal preference thing. But that paint job on a BMW makes me wanna puke. What did they do, give the car to a 3 year old?


If you followed the link you'd know its just some of the interior and the engine cowling that looks like that. The exterior of the car.
 Looks pretty aswesome.


----------



## darkphantom

I know some may think it is a terrible color but that paint job seems very tastefully applied considering the rest of the car. It matches the "artsy" theme. Not saying I would get a car like it, but I don't dislike the color


----------



## kizwan

All I can say, One man's garbage is another man's art. Wait, are you going to paint like that to your Corsair hydro radiator? If not, we're going way out of topic here.


----------



## shoozter

So I picked up my h100i earlier today upgrading from the stock intel cooler for my i5 3570k and decided to try and give overclocking a shot. I'm currently on an Asrock z77 Extreme4 mobo and followed a guide of how to overclock on another forum. At the moment I have my cpu running at 4.2ghz with the core voltage at 1.312 V. Temps are averaging at 70c and has hit 80 max after about 20 minutes on prime95. I'm not sure how well my overclocking is and if I could get some input on it I would really appreciate it. Thanks! Btw I'm totally loving the h100i right now


----------



## PedroC1999

Lower the volts bit by bit untill you lsoe stabilty


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shoozter*
> 
> So I picked up my h100i earlier today upgrading from the stock intel cooler for my i5 3570k and decided to try and give overclocking a shot. I'm currently on an Asrock z77 Extreme4 mobo and followed a guide of how to overclock on another forum. At the moment I have my cpu running at 4.2ghz with the core voltage at 1.312 V. Temps are averaging at 70c and has hit 80 max after about 20 minutes on prime95. I'm not sure how well my overclocking is and if I could get some input on it I would really appreciate it. Thanks! Btw I'm totally loving the h100i right now


That voltage is way too high for 4.2, I am guessing you do not have your bios optimized, I don't have a ASRock mobo, so I can't give you specifics, but here is a guide to help you. Read the first post the ask your questions in that thread:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1198504/complete-overclocking-guide-sandy-bridge-ivy-bridge-asrock-edition

As reference: at 1.3v a really good chip can do 4.8, a decent chip can do 4.6, and a just ok chip should be able to do 4.4.


----------



## Jaren1

Got my H55 all installed and such. Much better temps over the stock intel cooler

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jarenmorrisphotography/8605397534/
Gaming Rig 2 by awdftw!, on Flickr


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaren1*
> 
> Got my H55 all installed and such. Much better temps over the stock intel cooler
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/jarenmorrisphotography/8605397534/
> Gaming Rig 2 by awdftw!
> 
> 
> , on Flickr


Nice, i am a an of carbon fiber myself but haven't done it yet. have you seen the chart on back of the box? does it have the overclocked i7 failing with stock cooler, i always laugh at that and say no crap.


----------



## Jaren1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> Nice, i am a an of carbon fiber myself but haven't done it yet. have you seen the chart on back of the box? does it have the overclocked i7 failing with stock cooler, i always laugh at that and say no crap.


Yeah i figure the CF would make it not so boring lol, not to mention the way the pump is oriented the "corsair" logo was sideways. Yeah I saw that on the back and was like "Duh"


----------



## Dmz96

I'm about to pull the trigger on a h100i, but before I do, can someone answer a few questions for me?









1) Would replacing the stock TIM be worth it? Which one would you recommend if so?
2) I have an i5-3570k, every chip is different, but would it be unreasonable to expect a 4.5 overclock? (the chip was purchased its February past)
3) the way the rad would mount in my case would allow both fans to be seen from the outside, and they clash horribly with my color scheme. Would replacing the stock fans with corsair SP120 quiet editions be quietest than the stock fans and not have any issues connecting?
4) Finally, I can't understand how this corsair link works. My mobo does not control fans that well (z77e-itx), does this link software allow for complete fan control or whatever the mobo is capable of?

Thanks for the help!


----------



## Jaren1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dmz96*
> 
> I'm about to pull the trigger on a h100i, but before I do, can someone answer a few questions for me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1) Would replacing the stock TIM be worth it? Which one would you recommend if so?
> 2) I have an i5-3570k, every chip is different, but would it be unreasonable to expect a 4.5 overclock? (the chip was purchased its February past)
> 3) the way the rad would mount in my case would allow both fans to be seen from the outside, and they clash horribly with my color scheme. Would replacing the stock fans with corsair SP120 quiet editions be quietest than the stock fans and not have any issues connecting?
> 4) Finally, I can't understand how this corsair link works. My mobo does not control fans that well (z77e-itx), does this link software allow for complete fan control or whatever the mobo is capable of?
> 
> Thanks for the help!


Ill try and answer you questions, Im a bit of a noob tho.

1) Replacing the stock time might be worth it. Im not sure of the quality of the Corsair TIM, but I hear that coolermasters TIM is pretty good. Either way your probably looking at maybe 2c difference between the best TIM and you average TIM.

2) Really 4.5ghz should be easily achievable. I have the 3570k and I am able to get 4.5ghz at 1.23v on my H55. But thats not to say that your chip might be a bunk chip and you might not be able to hit 4.5ghz

3) Replacing the fans would be fine. They should come with the same 2 or 3 pin connectors that the stock fans come with. Another thing to look at is the static pressure and CFM, if the fans you want have lower static pressure then you would more then likely see a drop in cooling performance, by how much I dont know. They are 37db fans so yes there is quieter ones out there, but quieter usually means less flow.

4) Corsair link attaches to a USB header, allows you to view temps and such. If the fans are hooked to the mobo then Corsair link should allow you to control them. I have heard of people having issues with corsair link tho.

Hopefully I answered some of your questions, maybe someone else will chime in who has more knowledge.


----------



## pc-illiterate

corsair was using a shin etzu tim. i dont which and if they changed.
sp120 quiets move air but not close to what the stock or sp120 perf push. go with gt ap-15 if you have the cash or yate loon 1650 or swiftech helix fans or even the xspc fanswhich i believe are yate loons.
swiftech has some really good fans.


----------



## jktmas

it is not worth it to change the tim, corsair uses top of the line tim on their hydro series coolers.
you should have no problem reaching 4.5GHz i can get 4.4 without changing the voltage on mine, yours might be different.
you would have no problems connecting any fans to the corsair unit, but 4pin is usually preferred.
the H100i and H80i fan control system would have no problem running just fine no matter what motherboard you have, IF you have an open usb header on your board and you have a supported operating system.


----------



## Dmz96

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaren1*
> 
> Ill try and answer you questions, Im a bit of a noob tho.
> 
> 1) Replacing the stock time might be worth it. Im not sure of the quality of the Corsair TIM, but I hear that coolermasters TIM is pretty good. Either way your probably looking at maybe 2c difference between the best TIM and you average TIM.
> 
> 2) Really 4.5ghz should be easily achievable. I have the 3570k and I am able to get 4.5ghz at 1.23v on my H55. But thats not to say that your chip might be a bunk chip and you might not be able to hit 4.5ghz
> 
> 3) Replacing the fans would be fine. They should come with the same 2 or 3 pin connectors that the stock fans come with. Another thing to look at is the static pressure and CFM, if the fans you want have lower static pressure then you would more then likely see a drop in cooling performance, by how much I dont know. They are 37db fans so yes there is quieter ones out there, but quieter usually means less flow.
> 
> 4) Corsair link attaches to a USB header, allows you to view temps and such. If the fans are hooked to the mobo then Corsair link should allow you to control them. I have heard of people having issues with corsair link tho.
> 
> Hopefully I answered some of your questions, maybe someone else will chime in who has more knowledge.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> corsair was using a shin etzu tim. i dont which and if they changed.
> sp120 quiets move air but not close to what the stock or sp120 perf push. go with gt ap-15 if you have the cash or yate loon 1650 or swiftech helix fans or even the xspc fanswhich i believe are yate loons.
> swiftech has some really good fans.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> it is not worth it to change the tim, corsair uses top of the line tim on their hydro series coolers.
> you should have no problem reaching 4.5GHz i can get 4.4 without changing the voltage on mine, yours might be different.
> you would have no problems connecting any fans to the corsair unit, but 4pin is usually preferred.
> the H100i and H80i fan control system would have no problem running just fine no matter what motherboard you have, IF you have an open usb header on your board and you have a supported operating system.


You guys are awesome! Thanks for the help! Sounds like replacing the tim is a waste, won't do that. Happy to hear 4.5 is hittable easily as long as my cpu isn't a bunk one *crosses fingers*
As for the fans, I want the sp120 quiets for their looks and hopefully quietness compared to the default fans. I understand there are better options out there, but they don't look as nice Imo and I'm not overly sensitive to noise. Last question, though, does corsair link have any issues with windows 8. I he website shows windows 8 support but that doesn't necessarily mean bug free.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dmz96*
> 
> You guys are awesome! Thanks for the help! Sounds like replacing the tim is a waste, won't do that. Happy to hear 4.5 is hittable easily as long as my cpu isn't a bunk one *crosses fingers*
> As for the fans, I want the sp120 quiets for their looks and hopefully quietness compared to the default fans. I understand there are better options out there, but they don't look as nice Imo and I'm not overly sensitive to noise. Last question, though, does corsair link have any issues with windows 8. I he website shows windows 8 support but that doesn't necessarily mean bug free.


I would stay away from Corsair Link right now. I know some people including myself where it doesn't show the right speeds and all that. For my setup I just use a fan controller instead. The SP120 quiet fans will be great for keeping temps down during gaming and everyday use. Not so much for benchmarking though.


----------



## ez12a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dmz96*
> 
> I'm about to pull the trigger on a h100i, but before I do, can someone answer a few questions for me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1) Would replacing the stock TIM be worth it? Which one would you recommend if so?
> 2) I have an i5-3570k, every chip is different, but would it be unreasonable to expect a 4.5 overclock? (the chip was purchased its February past)
> 3) the way the rad would mount in my case would allow both fans to be seen from the outside, and they clash horribly with my color scheme. Would replacing the stock fans with corsair SP120 quiet editions be quietest than the stock fans and not have any issues connecting?
> 4) Finally, I can't understand how this corsair link works. My mobo does not control fans that well (z77e-itx), does this link software allow for complete fan control or whatever the mobo is capable of?
> 
> Thanks for the help!


1. No, Corsair's TIM has generally been pretty good out of the box. You can always change it later, so might as well try it the first time. Unless they changed their paste from the H50, it should be Shin Etsu (was/is one of the better ones).

3. SP120 quiet editions may not work with CorsairLink if that's what you mean by connecting. People have had problems connecting SP120 Performance editions and speed control working properly. Your mileage may vary.

4. CorsairLink is a monitoring and fan control utility that interfaces with the onboard controller on the H100i. The h100i/CorsairLink works well with the fans the h100i comes with (cheaper version of the SP120 P). Using other fans with it is hit or miss. it for sure does not work with Gentle Typhoon AP-15s and SP120 Ps. I tried it with Ap-15s and the speeds change uber slowly. We're talking 30 seconds to a few minutes to change a few hundred rpm.

For motherboard fan control, are you letting it control them automatically or have you tried something like SpeedFan (works better if your motherboard cant respond fast/adequately enough).


----------



## mokmoki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dmz96*
> 
> As for the fans, I want the sp120 quiets for their looks and hopefully quietness compared to the default fans. I understand there are better options out there, but they don't look as nice Imo and I'm not overly sensitive to noise.


I myself just replaced the Corsair H100i stock fans with an SP120 Performance Edition. They're a lot more quiet than the stock fans, even when both are full speed. I'd choose that over the SP120 Quiet Edition as it doesn't move as much air based on the specs. You can always use the included step-down resistor if the SP120 Perf sounds too loud for your tastes.

I am so glad that I replaced my stock fans with SP120s, because the stock fans had this annoying "humming" sound when I set the speed at "Balanced" fan profile via Corsair Link. All gone with the SP120, and temps didn't really change.

I'm not using Corsair Link anymore for controlling fan speed since I used SP120 PE's, I am using my case's built in 3-step fan controller. I set the speed at maximum while gaming/benching to get the best airflow possible. None of the annoying humming sounds from the stock fans. But it's dead silent at the lowest fan settings, perfect for simple web browsing, etc.


----------



## darkphantom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> All I can say, One man's garbage is another man's art. Wait, are you going to paint like that to your Corsair hydro radiator? If not, we're going way out of topic here.


Yes, I am, but not that purple paint...the other one, the white with splatters of paint.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkphantom*
> 
> My assumption was the wrinkling would create a non-needed layer, in essence micro-air pockets that would prevent the radiator from functioning properly if painted on the fins?


These paints are used on the cylinder fins of many motorcycle engines. I know people who use it on rather expensive Harley engines, so I don't think they will increase the the temperatures.

Here's what I'm referring to:

http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/performance/topic17255.html

You will get better cooling with an added layer of wrinkle paint vs an added layer of non-wrinkle paint. As for bare metal, they still paint rads. You will get better cooling performance from a bare metal rad painted with wrinkle paint than with non-wrinkle paint because of the added surface area of the wrinkle paint vs non-wrinkle paint. In either case, I think we're only talking a degree C or less in this application. I only mentioned it because I think the wrinkle paint looks really sweet, and it's available in a few different colours.


----------



## darkphantom

^will definitely have to check it out. Thanks for the reply!


----------



## Specialized41

*Hi!!

Any Idea if the Corsair H110 is compatible with HAF 932.???

Thanks for any info.
.
.
.
.
*[/B]


----------



## Qlix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Specialized41*
> 
> *Hi!!
> 
> Any Idea if the Corsair H110 is compatible with HAF 932.???
> 
> Thanks for any info.
> .
> .
> .
> .
> *[/B]


I have a 932 an I can't think of a single cooler/AIO that is incompatible.

My issue: previously had a 3570k @ 4.2 with h55 set up in push pull as an intake with hoses at the bottom, never topped 65c in ibt/p95 blen tests. I now have an h90 push pull, exhausting out the back hoses at the top on a 3770k @ 4.5 and my temps push 90c in p95 blend after 30 minutes.

I know it's pretty much apples and oranges but I can't help but feel something is greatly off.

Edit: also need to add h90 and h110 to the member forms!


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Specialized41*
> 
> *Hi!!
> 
> Any Idea if the Corsair H110 is compatible with HAF 932.???
> 
> Thanks for any info.
> .
> .
> .
> .
> *[/B]


I DON'T KNOW, YOU COULD ALWAYS CHECK ON THE HYDRO COOLER/CASE COMPATIBILITY THREAD

http://www.overclock.net/t/1144409/h80-h80i-h90-h100-h100i-h110-case-compatibility-thread-page-1-for-full-listings

Sheesh.


----------



## nagle3092

Anyone manage a direct die mount with the h80i or h100i?


----------



## Ronbob

Modified Corsair H100i


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Samurai707

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ronbob*
> 
> Modified Corsair H100i
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Did you actually see an improvement on temps?


----------



## darkphantom

that modded h100i *drools*

I'd love to know how the temps perform vs. stock. I've been itching to mod my h100...


----------



## I Am The Stig

How is the H80i with the AF 120mm fans?


----------



## Qlix

Looking for insight on my H90 issue. As I said in a previous post here is my current configuration:

HAF 932 all fans intakes other than top 230mm exhaust
H90 push/pull 2x cougar vortex 140mm installed top back of case as intake with hoses at the bottom (previously had this as exhaust with hoses at the top)
3770k @ 4.5 1.35v delided
Temps upwards of 100c during 8k tests in P95.

I feel like something is broken with this AIO. This is way out of range for temps ist it?


----------



## Ronbob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> Did you actually see an improvement on temps?


-5°C difference. I'll shorten the tubes next week for better results.


----------



## true47

Hello there everyone, hoping to get some help

i have a h100i installed on my 600t case, i have it mounted on the top of the inside with the 2 fans on top as exhaust, when i was screwing in 2 of the screws i guess i went on to screwing too much and the screws lost its thread and now they are just loose, and both are on 1 fan, i mean the radiator is on solid but i just wanna know if anyone can recommend maybe thicker replacement screws or anything that i can get cause i have that top fan a little loose, thank you all for your help


----------



## GhostHuntr

Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 is perfect for the H110, even with push/pull.


----------



## HesterDW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostHuntr*
> 
> Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 is perfect for the H110, even with push/pull.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Don't usually see those mounted in the front. Fits well with the case though. I like the red and black color scheme you've got.


----------



## GhostHuntr

Well, there's supposed to be room for a 280 in top as well, but I find it better fitting in the front


----------



## ez12a

Just curious, but where's your intake? or are you going for a negative pressure system?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *true47*
> 
> Hello there everyone, hoping to get some help
> 
> i have a h100i installed on my 600t case, i have it mounted on the top of the inside with the 2 fans on top as exhaust, when i was screwing in 2 of the screws i guess i went on to screwing too much and the screws lost its thread and now they are just loose, and both are on 1 fan, i mean the radiator is on solid but i just wanna know if anyone can recommend maybe thicker replacement screws or anything that i can get cause i have that top fan a little loose, thank you all for your help


Is it the rad screw holes that stripped or the screws? If it's the rad screw hole, I don't think just using a thicker screw is going to do the job unless you drill out the hole and tap it. You might want to email Corsair because I think a few of their rads sometimes come with badly tapped holes, or too much paint in the hole. Email their support and see if they will return the rad. If you just purchased it, you can always RMA it back to the place of purchase.

If it's the screws themselves, the correct size you need is: 6/32 1.25". You should be able to get them at any hardware store.


----------



## cplifj

and this is my carbide 300R with H110 cooling on topgrill.






grtz


----------



## Nightz2k

H100i installed and working. _(Buying a new set of Memory. Messed one up not being careful enough taking off heatsinks to fit under the rad)_.


----------



## RourkeSwift

_Edit - Derp! Found the answer!_

_Second Edit, for context since there were a few responses anyways:

I originally asked for proper configuration of the H100 I just ordered in my Corsair 600T. Whether the included fans should be mounted above or below the radiator in the top of the case, and whether they should be pushing through or pulling from the rad in that position._


----------



## kizwan

It's up to you whether you want to set it up as exhaust or intake. Both have pros & cons.

Intake:-
- It will pull fresh & colder air from outside which in turn make the CPU run cooler.
- Temp in the case will be warmer & you'll need a very good exhaust fan at the back to counter this.

Exhaust:-
- CPU will run a couple degrees warmer because it pulling warm air from inside the case.
- Depend on the airflow of the case, this will make the temp inside the case lower. The VRMs & GPU(s) generate heat (some GPU cooler dump heat inside the case rather than to outside at back), exhaust setup will help cooling these two.

I prefer exhaust setup & my case has great air flow anyway, I get good CPU temp, 7C delta when idle & ~30C or so delta when under load. I also have fan at the back works as exhaust too. Dumping warm air in the case, in high ambient environment, not very good idea which I learned in my previous build.


----------



## RourkeSwift

Thanks Kizwan. I'll probably go with exhaust to start and see how the temps look, then try intake as well just to compare.

In both situations I'll want the fans to be pushing through the rad though, right? Not trying to pull from the other side (unless I'm doing a P/P config?)


----------



## kizwan

Pushing air through the rad is recommended. The only reason you want to set it up as pull is it much easier to clean dust on the radiator. I prefer push & I don't mind the extra work to clean the radiator.

Definitely when doing push/pull setup, fan(s) on one side going to be push & fan(s) on the other side is pull.


----------



## RourkeSwift

Thanks man! Can't wait to start playing around with it!


----------



## Bart

I would argue the exact opposite as Kizwan, but I'm a water cooling noob, so take this with a grain of salt. Everything I've read leads me to believe that pull is better, from a radiator cooling standpoint. Depending on how the air flow is in your case of course. I have my 3x120 fans on my 360 top rad pulling air in, and blowing down onto the GPU with the 140 exhausting out the back. Positive pressure (more intake than exhaust) is better for dust AND heat, from what I've read, and I've seen better temps with a postive pressure setup in my rig. I tried doing exhaust out the top and it didn't perform as well. My $0.02, FWIW.









EDIT: you're smart for trying BOTH, so stick to that plan. Try both, see what works better in your case.


----------



## qdrummer21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> I would argue the exact opposite as Kizwan, but I'm a water cooling noob, so take this with a grain of salt. Everything I've read leads me to believe that pull is better, from a radiator cooling standpoint. Depending on how the air flow is in your case of course. I have my 3x120 fans on my 360 top rad pulling air in, and blowing down onto the GPU with the 140 exhausting out the back. Positive pressure (more intake than exhaust) is better for dust AND heat, from what I've read, and I've seen better temps with a postive pressure setup in my rig. I tried doing exhaust out the top and it didn't perform as well. My $0.02, FWIW.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: you're smart for trying BOTH, so stick to that plan. Try both, see what works better in your case.


He can still maintain positive pressure with a push exhaust setup on his rad., depending on the airflow of the other case fans are and how they're configured.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qdrummer21*
> 
> He can still maintain positive pressure with a push exhaust setup on his rad., depending on the airflow of the other case fans are and how they're configured.


Absolutely! Didn't mean to imply otherwise, my bad if I did!







After dealing with PC dust for years, I will NEVER go back to a negative pressure setup.


----------



## pc-illiterate

low rpm fans are better for pull while high rpm fans favor push.

Push Vs Pull - This depends on fan speed/power. The high speed fans at 2000RPM with a 38mm fan thickness provided the best performance in a push condition. The slow speed fans with 1350RPM with a 25mm fan thickness provided the best performance in a pull condition. I would estimate that performance line is likely to cross in the 1500-1700RPM range where they are equal. So.... slow speed = pull, high speed = push, medium speed = it doesn't really matter.

2 fans Push/Pull vs others - It was very clear that when using two fans per radiator section, that the radiator intself acts as a flow spreader and provided great benefit to straightening out the air for the second fan in a push/pull configuration. Just like doubling up with a pump, there is a pressure benefit to doubling up on fans and this translates to about a 20-30% performance gain. The added fan pressure simply means and added gain in air flow and corresponding performance. None of the experimental pull/pull or push/push configurations provided any noteworthy benefit as it seams the air is simply too disturbed from the first fan to allow the second to perform properly when air is moving. I would always recommend a push/pull configuration for two fans and add a shroud to both sides if space allows.

copied from here( the bottom of the page)

http://martinsliquidlab.petrastech.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RourkeSwift*
> 
> Thanks Kizwan. I'll probably go with exhaust to start and see how the temps look, then try intake as well just to compare.
> 
> In both situations I'll want the fans to be pushing through the rad though, right? Not trying to pull from the other side (unless I'm doing a P/P config?)


You should check out the 600T thread. One more added benefit of using exhaust (especially in the 600T) is that you don't get as much dust in the rad. The 600T front intake has a dust filter on it, which filters out a majority of the dust. If you use your H100 as intake, you would be pulling a lot of dust into the rad since the top of the case has no dust filter.
Note, you can get dust filters for the 600T here:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14346/ffi-88/DEMCiflex_Corsair_600T_Magnetic_Dust_Fan_Filter_Set_-_4_Piece.html

Not sure if they sell them separately.

You can check on various sites on the net, such as this one:

http://martinsliquidlab.i4memory.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html

to see that the actual temperature difference between push and pull is almost nothing (less than 1c), so there really isn't any common recommendation to use push over pull (I'd be interested to see a link showing otherwise).
The following chart shows the temperature difference between push and pull using 25mm thick fans:



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







from the above link. Note that most of the testing done above this point in the first 3/4 of the article are for _38mm fans, and 38mm shrouds_, not 25mm fan and 25mm shrouds. So, the information in that area may not be as applicable to 25mm fans, while the chart above is specifically for 25mm thick fans.

Using my H100 as exhaust in my 600T, when I clean my case once every two or three months, there is almost zero dust in my rad.

If you get a good fan controller, you can actually control whether your rig is using positive or negative pressure. On my rig, when I turn my intake fans up all the way, I get a good positive pressure. If you just use the 600T built-in fan controller, you have no control over this since it adjusts both the intake and exhaust fans at the same time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> low rpm fans are better for pull while high rpm fans favor push.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Push Vs Pull - This depends on fan speed/power. The high speed fans at 2000RPM with a 38mm fan thickness provided the best performance in a push condition. The slow speed fans with 1350RPM with a 25mm fan thickness provided the best performance in a pull condition. I would estimate that performance line is likely to cross in the 1500-1700RPM range where they are equal. So.... slow speed = pull, high speed = push, medium speed = it doesn't really matter.
> 
> 2 fans Push/Pull vs others - It was very clear that when using two fans per radiator section, that the radiator intself acts as a flow spreader and provided great benefit to straightening out the air for the second fan in a push/pull configuration. Just like doubling up with a pump, there is a pressure benefit to doubling up on fans and this translates to about a 20-30% performance gain. The added fan pressure simply means and added gain in air flow and corresponding performance. None of the experimental pull/pull or push/push configurations provided any noteworthy benefit as it seams the air is simply too disturbed from the first fan to allow the second to perform properly when air is moving. I would always recommend a push/pull configuration for two fans and add a shroud to both sides if space allows.
> 
> copied from here( the bottom of the page)
> 
> 
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.petrastech.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html


You forgot to mention that the difference between push and pull for 25mm fans in that data is less than 1c, as shown in the bottom chart. A fraction of a degree is arguably not really worth worrying about. Also the benefit provided by push/pull can depend on how thick the rad is. For example the H100 will not perform much better with push/pull than just push, while the H80 will show more temperature change because of the thicker rad.


----------



## pc-illiterate

the point is, pull is better than push for low rpm fans. .5*C is still a difference. i didnt say the chart showed a 10*C difference. pulling is prefered if you dont like cleaning your rad very often. push pull definitely makes a difference and even more so with shrouds on both fans with an h100. push/pull plus custom shrouds dropped my cpu temps 4-6* depending on ambient temp. to some people, every degree counts hence some people use their rads as intake. notice these were with different fans than stock h100. those things are god awful loud.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> I would argue the exact opposite as Kizwan, but I'm a water cooling noob, so take this with a grain of salt. Everything I've read leads me to believe that pull is better, from a radiator cooling standpoint. Depending on how the air flow is in your case of course. I have my 3x120 fans on my 360 top rad pulling air in, and blowing down onto the GPU with the 140 exhausting out the back. Positive pressure (more intake than exhaust) is better for dust AND heat, from what I've read, and I've seen better temps with a postive pressure setup in my rig. I tried doing exhaust out the top and it didn't perform as well. My $0.02, FWIW.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: you're smart for trying BOTH, so stick to that plan. Try both, see what works better in your case.


My bad on the push being recommended. The difference on performance between the push & pull is very little. I still preferred push than pull since the fans I use are high static pressure. Using it for pull will make them underutilized IMO.

In high ambient environment, which I did emphasize this in my previous post, negative pressure is the best. In my previous build, I use positive pressure with one high CFM fan at the back as exhaust. It did worked well in colder day but not in hotter day. After changed to negative pressure, temps much lower in hotter day.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> You should check out the 600T thread. One more added benefit of using exhaust (especially in the 600T) is that you don't get as much dust in the rad. The 600T front intake has a dust filter on it, which filters out a majority of the dust. If you use your H100 as intake, you would be pulling a lot of dust into the rad since the top of the case has no dust filter.
> Note, you can get dust filters for the 600T here:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14346/ffi-88/DEMCiflex_Corsair_600T_Magnetic_Dust_Fan_Filter_Set_-_4_Piece.html
> 
> Not sure if they sell them separately.
> 
> You can check on various sites on the net, such as this one:
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.i4memory.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html
> 
> to see that the actual temperature difference between push and pull is almost nothing (less than 1c), so there really isn't any common recommendation to use push over pull (I'd be interested to see a link showing otherwise).
> The following chart shows the temperature difference between push and pull using 25mm thick fans:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> from the above link. Note that most of the testing done above this point in the first 3/4 of the article are for _38mm fans, and 38mm shrouds_, not 25mm fan and 25mm shrouds. So, the information in that area may not be as applicable to 25mm fans, while the chart above is specifically for 25mm thick fans.
> 
> Using my H100 as exhaust in my 600T, when I clean my case once every two or three months, there is almost zero dust in my rad.
> 
> If you get a good fan controller, you can actually control whether your rig is using positive or negative pressure. On my rig, when I turn my intake fans up all the way, I get a good positive pressure. If you just use the 600T built-in fan controller, you have no control over this since it adjusts both the intake and exhaust fans at the same time.


My C70 case also have dust filter on the front & at the bottom. I use negative pressure & there is little dust accumulated in the case even after some time. Mind you, my house does have serious dust problem (old house) but dust accumulated in the case is minimal, almost 5 months now since the last time I clean up my case. My H100 radiator does take a toll though, dust accumulated on the radiator after some time (push + exhaust config). Still, almost up to 5 months & the radiator still look clean.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> low rpm fans are better for pull while high rpm fans favor push.
> 
> copied from here( the bottom of the page)
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.petrastech.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> the point is, pull is better than push for low rpm fans. .5*C is still a difference. i didnt say the chart showed a 10*C difference. pulling is prefered if you dont like cleaning your rad very often. push pull definitely makes a difference and even more so with shrouds on both fans with an h100. push/pull plus custom shrouds dropped my cpu temps 4-6* depending on ambient temp. to some people, every degree counts hence some people use their rads as intake. notice these were with different fans than stock h100. those things are god awful loud.
Click to expand...

I tend to agree with Kizwan when you are talking about the H100/i series that has a high density fin spacing, thin radiator (27mm). You were right initially, forget the "my bad" comment. Pull is not better than Push with high quality static pressure fans even down to the 1300rpm range! The article above by Martin is dated with relevance to the newer H100 AIO's systems with extremely low flow rates/high density-thin radiators. The radiator used in the article above is nothing like the H100/i radiator, it is 35mm thick and has a less dense fin spacing. Additionally who would replace the fairly decent stock fans with a cheap no static pressure Yate Loon (D12SL-12) open chassis fan used in the graph below









Yate Loon specs *[HERE]*

Using this graph for a H100/i setup is like comparing apples to oranges ...



Martin has recently finished his H100i review *[HERE]* It is very well done! With some envious H220 comparisons. Read it in detail, it's 10 pages full of answer's to questions that get asked in this forum all the time. And some info I was not aware of like did you know that the new H100i has gone back to using a steel pump shaft over the typically preferred ceramic shaft used in the old H100







Also has some great Noise vs Performance charts and even dBA measuring video's.

I would also highly recommend reading the "Comments" section below the article for a very interesting discussion between "citicalthinker" and Martin about pumps, flow rates, voltages and how Corsair engineers such an efficient system with incredibly Low flow rates.

More quotes I gleamed from Martin's review ...
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/03/13/corsair-hydro-series-h100i-aio-cpu-cooler/

_"While radiators normally are extremely low in restriction, that is not the case with the H100i. It must have very thin tubes to make it perform well at very low flow rates as the restriction is about 6X more than most radiators I've tested.

I forgot to measure the fin spacing, but it is a little more dense than the H220. It looks more like the RS240 fin spacing than it does the H220. This means it is more optimized for high-speed fans but a little too dense for optimal performance using slow speed fans.

I would not recommend expansion or modification to the sealed loop. Keep your warranty and leave it alone, any expansion will require lower restriction CPU block and likely more pumping power. The very low 0.11GPM max flow rate is far too slow to do much expansion with."_

This helps understand why higher static pressure fans a very important for a H100/i AIO type system to perform optimally. There is also some interesting info/graph's on the AP-15 confirming what many of us have been saying all along. It has it's drawbacks but is still hard to beat if you feel you must replace your quite capable stock fans


----------



## GhostHuntr

Sorry, but it doesn't really show. There's 2 140mm fans in the top that I use for intake


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> You were right initially, forget the "my bad" comment.


My bad.







I should have trusted myself, usually I am.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> My bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should have trusted myself, usually I am.


Hey, you were only opposed by one idiot noob (me), and it wasn't really opposition, just stating what I found worked best in the system I had at the time.







Some good info popping up here. I love good productive discussions that don't degenerate into flame-age!


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> the point is, pull is better than push for low rpm fans. .5*C is still a difference. i didnt say the chart showed a 10*C difference. pulling is prefered if you dont like cleaning your rad very often. push pull definitely makes a difference and even more so with shrouds on both fans with an h100. push/pull plus custom shrouds dropped my cpu temps 4-6* depending on ambient temp. to some people, every degree counts hence some people use their rads as intake. notice these were with different fans than stock h100. those things are god awful loud.


I'm only pointing out that the temperature difference is negligible. Also, push or pull really doesn't affect dust, only exhaust or intake does (however, _in this particular case_ with a 600T, setting up the H100 stock, pull would be exhaust and push would be intake).
There are people in this very thread who got no difference when adding a shroud to a Corsair Hydro cooler. There are others who have gotten no difference adding a second set of fans (including Corsair). Perhaps the air flow properties of your case had some effect, considering Corsair's tests were in a lab?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> My bad on the push being recommended. The difference on performance between the push & pull is very little. I still preferred push than pull since the fans I use are high static pressure. Using it for pull will make them underutilized IMO.
> 
> In high ambient environment, which I did emphasize this in my previous post, negative pressure is the best. In my previous build, I use positive pressure with one high CFM fan at the back as exhaust. It did worked well in colder day but not in hotter day. After changed to negative pressure, temps much lower in hotter day.
> My C70 case also have dust filter on the front & at the bottom. I use negative pressure & there is little dust accumulated in the case even after some time. Mind you, my house does have serious dust problem (old house) but dust accumulated in the case is minimal, almost 5 months now since the last time I clean up my case. My H100 radiator does take a toll though, dust accumulated on the radiator after some time (push + exhaust config). Still, almost up to 5 months & the radiator still look clean.


Agree that cases with intake dust filters are "da bomb". As for neg vs pos pressure, the big difference is that neg pressure causes air to flow into the case through any little crack or seam or hole in the case (such as USB ports, and seams between the case and the optical bay covers). This can cause an accumulation of dust at those points. With pos pressure, all the seams, cracks and holes are exhausting air, not pulling it in, and therefore do not accumulate dust.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I tend to agree with Kizwan when you are talking about the H100/i series that has a high density fin spacing, thin radiator (27mm). You were right initially, forget the "my bad" comment. Pull is not better than Push with high quality static pressure fans even down to the 1300rpm range! The article above by Martin is dated with relevance to the newer H100 AIO's systems with extremely low flow rates/high density-thin radiators. The radiator used in the article above is nothing like the H100/i radiator, it is 35mm thick and has a less dense fin spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Additionally who would replace the fairly decent stock fans with a cheap no static pressure Yate Loon (D12SL-12) open chassis fan used in the graph below
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yate Loon specs *[HERE]*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Using this graph for a H100/i setup is like comparing apples to oranges ...
> 
> 
> 
> Martin has recently finished his H100i review *[HERE]* It is very well done! With some envious H220 comparisons. Read it in detail, it's 10 pages full of answer's to questions that get asked in this forum all the time. And some info I was not aware of like did you know that the new H100i has gone back to using a steel pump shaft over the typically preferred ceramic shaft used in the old H100
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also has some great Noise vs Performance charts and even dBA measuring video's.
> 
> I would also highly recommend reading the "Comments" section below the article for a very interesting discussion between "citicalthinker" and Martin about pumps, flow rates, voltages and how Corsair engineers such an efficient system with incredibly Low flow rates.
> 
> More quotes I gleamed from Martin's review ...
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/03/13/corsair-hydro-series-h100i-aio-cpu-cooler/
> 
> _"While radiators normally are extremely low in restriction, that is not the case with the H100i. It must have very thin tubes to make it perform well at very low flow rates as the restriction is about 6X more than most radiators I've tested.
> 
> I forgot to measure the fin spacing, but it is a little more dense than the H220. It looks more like the RS240 fin spacing than it does the H220. This means it is more optimized for high-speed fans but a little too dense for optimal performance using slow speed fans.
> 
> I would not recommend expansion or modification to the sealed loop. Keep your warranty and leave it alone, any expansion will require lower restriction CPU block and likely more pumping power. The very low 0.11GPM max flow rate is far too slow to do much expansion with."_
> 
> This helps understand why higher static pressure fans a very important for a H100/i AIO type system to perform optimally. There is also some interesting info/graph's on the AP-15 confirming what many of us have been saying all along. It has it's drawbacks but is still hard to beat if you feel you must replace your quite capable stock fans


The link to the Frozen CPU specifications for the Yate Loon fans does not list Static Pressure. However, if you check out this review:

http://www.overclock.net/t/819736/yate-loon-d12sh-12-round-up-review-56k-no

which very thoroughly tests Yate Loons, you will see that they are actually pretty decent fans. You can find other articles and reviews and fan roundups (some right here on ocn) that specifically say Yate Loons are some of the best budget fans on a rad for performance vs noise.

Also, in fact, if you search this very thread for "Yate Loons" you will see extensive discussions of them earlier in the thread. One fellow quite swears by them as great rad fans for low noise applications.

Edit:

It's funny when you've been a member of a thread like this for so long, and you see information earlier in the thread about a particular subject, and then a year or two later more information about the same subject only it completely contradicts the information earlier in the thread. It does show who has read and who has not read the entire thread though (no offense intended to anyone. We can't all read all of such a large thread unless we joined it fairly early).


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Hey, you were only opposed by one idiot noob (me), and it wasn't really opposition, just stating what I found worked best in the system I had at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some good info popping up here. I love good productive discussions that don't degenerate into flame-age!


I also enjoy good productive discussions. I usually chose my words carefully but since English is my second language I might offended someone without knowing.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Agree that cases with intake dust filters are "da bomb". As for neg vs pos pressure, the big difference is that neg pressure causes air to flow into the case through any little crack or seam or hole in the case (such as USB ports, and seams between the case and the optical bay covers). This can cause an accumulation of dust at those points. With pos pressure, all the seams, cracks and holes are exhausting air, not pulling it in, and therefore do not accumulate dust.


I agree with you. My previous build has lot of dust accumulated in it after I changed to negative pressure, even at some point I stop cleaning it because dust accumulated very fast. Ambient here is very high, depends on the whether, it can go down to 29 - 30C. In this range the air still cooler & all is well with my positive pressure setup but when it go up to 32 - 36C, the air become hotter & my rig with positive pressure take a toll where the hot air heating up inside the case before the exhaust fan got them out. I can feels the side panel warming up. My current build much better in term of dust accumulation because of the dust filters. The only place dust accumulated a lot is on the radiator which I usually need to clean them once every 4 to 5 months. Currently almost up to 5 months & it still clean. Hopefully it continue this way for another months.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> The link to the Frozen CPU specifications for the Yate Loon fans does not list Static Pressure. However, if you check out this review:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/819736/yate-loon-d12sh-12-round-up-review-56k-no
> 
> which very thoroughly tests Yate Loons, you will see that they are actually pretty decent fans. You can find other articles and reviews and fan roundups (some right here on ocn) that specifically say Yate Loons are some of the best budget fans on a rad for performance vs noise.
> 
> Also, in fact, if you search this very thread for "Yate Loons" you will see extensive discussions of them earlier in the thread. One fellow quite swears by them as great rad fans for low noise applications.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> It's funny when you've been a member of a thread like this for so long, and you see information earlier in the thread about a particular subject, and then a year or two later more information about the same subject only it completely contradicts the information earlier in the thread. It does show who has read and who has not read the entire thread though (no offense intended to anyone. We can't all read all of such a large thread unless we joined it fairly early).


OK I stand corrected on the SP, and will admit I was a bit too harsh on the Yate Loons. In fact as a Semi-Old-Timer here ... if you search this thread you'd see I actually recommended them in the past but only for those that are flat broke and had to have a replacement. Because they are so cheap they became popular with the custom-loop guys running multiple 360 rads in push/pull. And the quality can vary a lot depending on which vendor you purchase from, Horror stories abound with early failure and odd noises within months of installation, unless you take the time to re-lube them yourself. I still don't think they beat out the AP-15 for a replacement when it comes to the H100/i setup for all the reasons I linked above. The H100/i radiator is engineered differently than your typical higher quality copper custom- loop rad, which was my main point above









Nice job Merg, it's good to see your not slipping a bit in your years of service to this thread


----------



## I Am The Stig

Can anyone give me some ideas for a custom curve for the H80i? I want it to fluctuate with the temperatures...does anyone have any curve profiles set up?


----------



## GhostHuntr

Just tried a test with my new i5-3570K @ 4.5 = 57c on CPU after 15 mins


----------



## Tribalinius

Just joined the forum and a proud owner of an H80i in my living room box. Kinda tight on the back of a BitFenix Prodigy in push/pull though. I would have gone for an H100i if I would not have needed the space to put a BD reader. Anyway, I like my H80i, that's all that matter







.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> OK I stand corrected on the SP, and will admit I was a bit too harsh on the Yate Loons. In fact as a Semi-Old-Timer here ... if you search this thread you'd see I actually recommended them in the past but only for those that are flat broke and had to have a replacement. Because they are so cheap they became popular with the custom-loop guys running multiple 360 rads in push/pull. And the quality can vary a lot depending on which vendor you purchase from, Horror stories abound with early failure and odd noises within months of installation, unless you take the time to re-lube them yourself. I still don't think they beat out the AP-15 for a replacement when it comes to the H100/i setup for all the reasons I linked above. The H100/i radiator is engineered differently than your typical higher quality copper custom- loop rad, which was my main point above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice job Merg, it's good to see your not slipping a bit in your years of service to this thread


Thanks. I agree that for performance vs noise, the AP-15 seem to be the king of the hill atm. A lot of people love those fans.

@Tribalinius

That looks really sweet man. Nice job.

For people into the Prodigy, I highly recommend this thread:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1281701/yin-and-yang-dual-prodigy-builds-updated-4-6-with-usb-3-0-sleeving-guide

Long Road Trip is doing some amazing things with those cases.


----------



## Thuwarakan

I have a few questions about the hydro series.

1. Did anyone have issues with the hydro series leaking over your system?

2.If it does leak will corsair compensate for the damages?

3. How can leak test the product?

4. If it does not leak during the leak test will it be safe 3 years+?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thuwarakan*
> 
> I have a few questions about the hydro series.
> 
> 1. Did anyone have issues with the hydro series leaking over your system?
> 
> *Yes people have unfortunately*
> 
> 2.If it does leak will corsair compensate for the damages?
> 
> *Yes they do*
> 
> 3. How can leak test the product?
> 
> *Use a spare PSU to power it up and test it that way*
> 
> 4. If it does not leak during the leak test will it be safe 3 years+?
> 
> *My H80i has a warranty of 5 years*


----------



## [email protected]

This is why Corsair has amazing warranty!


----------



## nohackmove

Finally i did it.i found our old tools and drilled four screw holes on my case cooler master elite 430. then mounted the radiator at top and outside of case located fans and used 8 long screws came with h100i only to install kit.then located cpu partsknow h100i work fine.i did disable front usb ports to be able to connect corsair link cable.also took of one of my memories.when insert 2 memories system did not boot reset itself continiously. when take off one of memories system start well but needs to make defaults of bios.there is something else that at first start each time till the windows loading logo passes fans were rounding at highest speed than turn to normal after that logo disappear and os loads.is this sound and also highest speeds of fan at startups normal?


----------



## Thuwarakan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*


I was just browsing the corsair forum and found out that they only give a max of $100 for each hardware damaged...so basically I will end up being screwed if my maximus board and gtx 680 gets ruined, also can't forget about my 3770k...I don't think it's worth the risk putting in a $100 product that can ruin my $2000 build.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thuwarakan*
> 
> I was just browsing the corsair forum and found out that they only give a max of $100 for each hardware damaged...so basically I will end up being screwed if my maximus board and gtx 680 gets ruined, also can't forget about my 3770k...I don't think it's worth the risk putting in a $100 product that can ruin my $2000 build.


i dont know about that.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1375261/my-corsair-h100-leaked-on-my-new-680-gtx/100#post_19761799
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *webdevii*
> 
> Yeah I never suspected my Main Board, thus didnt send it, but called ASUS just playing stupid, I told them everything and they still said send it in, and said if they can not find any water damage they will send me a new P9X79 Deluxe board. That is when it will go up on ebay and I buy my Intel 3930 CPU for the water cooled rig.
> 
> But yeah corsair was very very good about the loyality to their customer and within a week to the day I had my new H100i (which I already sold on CL) and my good working SAS controller that I thought was bad and was not.
> 
> My Check in the amount of $500.00 for the water damaged video card 680GTX will be here in a week or so, therefore I do give a good amount of respect to Corsair for standing behind their product, but on the same note I would never go with a plug and pray liquid cooler again. I do have a bud at Frozen CPU that is assisting me in setting up a custom liquid rig, so it should work out quite nicely with the new 3930 CPU. I will be posting my Future Mark benchmarks for speed and temps here, soon as I get all the hardware set up.
> 
> thanks again for your reply
> Dev


----------



## Erick Silver

Just cleaned the rig. Poor rad was full of dust. I live in a beach area with 7 adult cats in the house. I have my H60 set to intake in P/P config. My problem is though that load temps are at 56*C and climbing slowly. If I tap the hoses the temp drops. Is this because of air in the lines or pump?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Just cleaned the rig. Poor rad was full of dust. I live in a beach area with 7 adult cats in the house. I have my H60 set to intake in P/P config. My problem is though that load temps are at 56*C and climbing slowly. If I tap the hoses the temp drops. Is this because of air in the lines or pump?


how/where do you have the rad mounted? is it on the rear or on the top? top will keep all the coolant circulating while putting it on the rear can let air thats in the system trap in the high point of the rad. that air can possibly be pushed around the loop.


----------



## Erick Silver

I have the rad at the back 120MM fan mount. Temps have stabilized after spending a while gently tapping the hoses to move the air along. Max temps are now 55*c which is right about where it should be.


----------



## pc-illiterate

glad its working for you. let us know if you get that air bubble back after a shutdown or it goes to sleep.


----------



## Erick Silver

On another note. Does anyone have a H60/H80/H100 that they are looking to part with? The stock fan on my GPU cooler threw 3 blades this morning and this gives me a excuse to do a CLC mod to my GPU.


----------



## pc-illiterate

pm'd ya erick


----------



## Erick Silver

Thanks pc. responded.


----------



## Qlix

I suspect I have air in my h90 as well. 3770k @ 4.6, Temps are 85c during 8k ffts after delidding and using CLP. HAF 932, back 140mm fan mounting location as intake, p/p w/ cougar hydro bearing high static pressure fans, hoses on bottom.

How would I diagnose an air bubble problem and go about correcting it.


----------



## Erick Silver

I simply tapped the hose gently to get the air through. But you may have to do some tilting of the case to get the air to the top of the rad. Its best to have the hose at the bottom of the rad when you have it mounted.


----------



## pc-illiterate

hell whats best is have it mounted up top. an air bubble cant get trapped and stop water flow to any major extent. its the reason cases have rad mounts in the top of the case not the back or front.


----------



## Qlix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> hell whats best is have it mounted up top. an air bubble cant get trapped and stop water flow to any major extent. its the reason cases have rad mounts in the top of the case not the back or front.


Can't mount 140 fans to the top of a HAF 932 without creative modding, tis the reason I got the h90. Less space taken up, and reviewed to perform equal to an h100i.


----------



## Mergatroid

A "rad mount" is just a fan mount. Many cases have mounting areas in the back for 120mm or 140mm fans. Companies that make 120mm and 140mm AIO water coolers are well aware of this, and now those areas can be called fan/rad mounts.

If there is air in your 120mm or 140mm AIO water cooler, mount the rad so the hoses are at the bottom of the rad. Use the tapping method to move the air into the rad, and let it settle at the top where it can't be moved back into the system.


----------



## Qlix

already said the hoses are installed at the bottom, definitely understand a radiator mount is a fan. The 932 doesnt have 140mm mounts at the top. Tap method... who knows if its doing anything


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qlix*
> 
> already said the hoses are installed at the bottom, definitely understand a radiator mount is a fan. The 932 doesnt have 140mm mounts at the top. Tap method... who knows if its doing anything


heaven forbid anyone to mod a case.
when a sealed rad is mounted vertically, a bubble can get trapped at the top. doesnt matter if its barbs at the top or the crossover. if you mount it horizontally, the air can get trapped at the top of the rad but the top will be a water channel and there will be other channels to still pass the water through. and it has a better chance of getting trapped where it wont have negative effects.


----------



## Qlix

Not saying i cant mod the case, in fact i acknowledged that thats what it would take







just would rather not if i could fix it without. I think its more than a bubble though. Corsair wants to send me an H100i, just havent decided to swap it yet. Guess I should then i wouldnt have this issue


----------



## Erick Silver

I'm still trying to figure out where the 140MM issue comes into play. After all the H60/80/100 wherether the "i" model or not use 120mm mountings. Not 140mm.

Edit....Nevermind. I just realized that you have the H90. which is 140mm......


----------



## Qlix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> I'm still trying to figure out where the 140MM issue comes into play. After all the H60/80/100 wherether the "i" model or not use 120mm mountings. Not 140mm.
> 
> Edit....Nevermind. I just realized that you have the H90. which is 140mm......


----------



## jbmayes2000

So will shrouds drop temps even lower with the h100i/h80i? And would you shroud both fans or just the push fan or just the pull fan?


----------



## Erick Silver

The shroud helps to eliminate "dead zones" in the airflow pattern. I would use a shroud on the push fan only. This is the fan that will be blowing directly into the rad. The pull fan just helps to pull the hot air away from the rad and as such does not require a shroud.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbmayes2000*
> 
> So will shrouds drop temps even lower with the h100i/h80i? And would you shroud both fans or just the push fan or just the pull fan?


This is debatable. There are people in this thread who have installed shrouds on aio water coolers (using 25mm thick fans, and a 25mm thick shroud) and seen no difference in temps at all.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbmayes2000*
> 
> So will shrouds drop temps even lower with the h100i/h80i? And would you shroud both fans or just the push fan or just the pull fan?


I agree with Eric and Merg ... but it all depends on your setup and how high if any your overclock is?
Shrouds became popular when the original H50 came out years ago and many users saw a 3c-5c? improvement using shroud(s) with a med to high OC and depending on whether they changed out fans to higher performing static pressure fans or not.

The H80/H100 i-series have seen significant engineering improvements in the pump/coldplate(block)/and fans over the original H50. I doubt you'd see more than a 1c difference with a shroud on the push or pull fan. And considering the space the shrouds would take up in say an H100i "stock" setup, I think the 25mm shroud space needed would be better spent on Pull fans instead, unless you have more than 77mm (thickness) real estate to work with.

Shrouds showed an improvement with lower static pressure/slower rpm fans in the past, and some will go to *[THIS]* as their source, but I think it is outdated/mismatched for comparison with the new, better engineered AIO's of today









Bottom line IMHO ...

Push/Pull > Push/shroud = or -1c? "stock setup" for the H100(i) and possibly for the H80(i) as well.


----------



## Erick Silver

Well earlier this week I lost 3 fan blades on my stock cooled EVGA GTX560 SE. I ziptied a 80mm x 80mm x 38mm 4000 rpm fan to the cooler and got horrible temps. Load temp were reaching 80*c average. So I found a 25mm thick fan and turned it into a shroud. I notched the sides about halfway up to allow air to flow out the side into the larger fin areas and max temps are now about 57*c. So that type of shrouding worked in that case. But honestly with todays AIO coolers you will see little, if any, advantage to having it with shrouds. It better to have it in Push/Pull. Like I have on my H60.


----------



## Thuwarakan

Do you guys think the corsair closed loop water cooling is safer than custom water cooling?

My main concern is leakage and i read around a few threads about corsair helping their customer with compensation if their product does leak. Is this true?

How about custom water cooling companies such as koolance and ekwb will they provide compensation if their product is discovered to be faulty?

Do you think there is more chance in the corsair hydro series leaking or the custom water cooling kit?


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thuwarakan*
> 
> Do you guys think the corsair closed loop water cooling is safer than custom water cooling?
> 
> My main concern is leakage and i read around a few threads about corsair helping their customer with compensation if their product does leak. Is this true?
> 
> How about custom water cooling companies such as koolance and ekwb will they provide compensation if their product is discovered to be faulty?
> 
> Do you think there is more chance in the corsair hydro series leaking or the custom water cooling kit?


I've had the H50, H70, H80i and now the H100i, all have worked flawless for me, never had problems personally. Leaking is very rare and if you're actually unlucky enough to get one that leaks, they do cover it plus damaged parts. _(From what I've read and heard about anyway, though there could be a limit)_

For custom watercooling, I'm pretty sure you're not covered if other hardware is damaged from them leaking. You should _always_ leak test after building them, it's the best way to go about it. _(Before installing obviously)_

If you want to be on the safe side, you can leak test the Corsair unit(s) as well, just hook up to a PSU and run it for whatever amount of time until you're comfortable with it.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightz2k*
> 
> I've had the H50, H70, H80i and now the H100i, all have worked flawless for me, never had problems personally. Leaking is very rare and if you're actually unlucky enough to get one that leaks, they do cover it plus damaged parts. _(From what I've read and heard about anyway, though there could be a limit)_
> 
> For custom watercooling, I'm pretty sure you're not covered if other hardware is damaged from them leaking. You should _always_ leak test after building them, it's the best way to go about it. _(Before installing obviously)_
> 
> If you want to be on the safe side, you can leak test the Corsair unit(s) as well, just hook up to a PSU and run it for whatever amount of time until you're comfortable with it.


I had a H100 and it was a good solution for me but I went with a custom loop to bring my temps down


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I had a H100 and it was a good solution for me but I went with a custom loop to bring my temps down


Yeah, custom loop is better which it should be for the cost. He was asking about leaks and I responded to that, not the performance.

It's all personal preference anyway. I got an AIO cooler for the ease of install and forget type deal. _(Quick and simple for the most part)_

If and/or when I want better temps, I will goto full custom watercooling. For now, this will do.


----------



## francisw19

I just got my H80i the other day. Here's a pic of it installed...



So far it's been working very well! No leaks and a silent pump...I'm quite pleased with it.


----------



## Jaren1

Anyone ever here occasional noise from you cooler. Sounds like water rushing through for a brief second? anything to worry about?


----------



## end00

I recently got my h100i and I like ti so far. It's been problem free, but after checking it out you're not able to add to the loop like say the Swiftech 'closed loop' system they sell. I might end up selling my h100i off to get the swiftech one.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thuwarakan*
> 
> Do you guys think the corsair closed loop water cooling is safer than custom water cooling?
> 
> My main concern is leakage and i read around a few threads about corsair helping their customer with compensation if their product does leak. Is this true?
> 
> How about custom water cooling companies such as koolance and ekwb will they provide compensation if their product is discovered to be faulty?
> 
> Do you think there is more chance in the corsair hydro series leaking or the custom water cooling kit?


I agree with Nightz2k.
I've had an H50 (still have it), H70 and H100 (in my sig rig) and all of them are still working fine. The worst I can say is the H50 is a little noisy, but of course it's the oldest design. Corsair will back up their product, and if you get a leak from a factory defect, they have replaced ruined hardware from what I have seen. In fact, one guy was bragging the hardware he got back was better than the hardware that was damaged.

Leaks are very rare in Corsair coolers. However, if you do a full loop, you are 100% responsible yourself. If all you're worried about is leaks, imao the Corsair closed loop coolers are by far the safest gamble, especially for someone new to water cooling. As for the other companies you mentioned, I couldn't say. You should ask about them in threads about their products.

Also agree about using aio coolers due to the easy installation and maintenance free design.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *end00*
> 
> I recently got my h100i and I like ti so far. It's been problem free, but after checking it out you're not able to add to the loop like say the Swiftech 'closed loop' system they sell. I might end up selling my h100i off to get the swiftech one.


Maybe next time research a little before purchasing. (just saying).


----------



## gtsteviiee

Should I get the H80i or the H100i? for my Fractal R4


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

I've had a damaged H80i (replacement one from a supplier) for awhile now and thought I'd post pictures. It hasn't leaked but has quite a lot of damage on the radiator.





Waiting for Corsair to respond and see if I can get a replacement.


----------



## Erick Silver

Holy Crap! Did someone put it into a vice or something??? What supplier was it and why would they ship out something like that??


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Holy Crap! Did someone put it into a vice or something??? What supplier was it and why would they ship out something like that??


Looks like it doesn't it. It was Ebuyer but it was sealed so they weren't aware of the damage. To make things worse it arrived when I was out of the country and I didn't open it until a month after it arrived. They now want me to prove that I was out of the country but I have misplaced my ferry ticket.


----------



## cavallino

I shoe horned an h60 into my prodigy yesterday. About a 13 degree improvement over the little thermaltake aircooler I was using. Obviously I am not overclocking my xeon so I didn't need much. I think an h80i would have been really tight and an h100i would have been overkill. The p8h7-i is really cramped so I pretty much had to go with a liquid cooler.


----------



## Erick Silver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Looks like it doesn't it. It was Ebuyer but it was sealed so they weren't aware of the damage. To make things worse it arrived when I was out of the country and I didn't open it until a month after it arrived. They now want me to prove that I was out of the country but I have misplaced my ferry ticket.


I would deal with Corsair, as eBuyer will be difficult to deal with. Other than a ferry ticket what about a credit card log or something of that sort to prove it to them? Hotel receipts? Anything like that?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> I would deal with Corsair, as eBuyer will be difficult to deal with. Other than a ferry ticket what about a credit card log or something of that sort to prove it to them? Hotel receipts? Anything like that?


Appreciate the help. I paid cash and stayed with relatives. If they don't accept the RMA then I'll contact Corsair and see if they can help. Thanks again.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cavallino*
> 
> I shoe horned an h60 into my prodigy yesterday. About a 13 degree improvement over the little thermaltake aircooler I was using. Obviously I am not overclocking my xeon so I didn't need much. I think an h80i would have been really tight and an h100i would have been overkill. The p8h7-i is really cramped so I pretty much had to go with a liquid cooler.


Wow, I really would have expected way more than a 13c difference between a small air cooler and a aio water cooler.


----------



## pc-illiterate

-13*C is a lot especially from an h60


----------



## cavallino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> -13*C is a lot especially from an h60


Yeah thats what I thought too. It's just an h60 nothing fancy.


----------



## smoke420

Just got done with some new mods let me know what you think. I am using 2x h60's to cool my graphics cards and an h50 on my cpu. That in itself is a mod but im just getting started.I ended up with all three systems daisy chained..
Before you ask why.....
1.Why not
2.cost me $20
3. Im not putting huge amounts of load on both my cpu and gpu's at the same time so this ends up helping both.
4.Last but not least looks and I wanted something different.
First I just attached the coolers and put the rads any way they would fit.

Then I got great temps on one card but horrible temps on the other the problem was too much tension on the block from the stiff tubes.To fix this I needed to move the rads and change the tubes on one of the coolers.

This ended bad and ugly.Where to start one of the hoses was too short so I had stuff something under the fan to keep it from rattling. Still had horrible temps on one card because the hose being too short this time pulling down on the block...But two good things came from this attempt.1.I knew could cut into the hose without fluid getting every where.2.Gave me an chance to fix my horrible cable management...

Before

After....keep in mind I have 13 fans and my psu is not modular at all..

At first

second

Now





Let me know what you think......


----------



## _REAPER_

I think it looks better without the lights on the side but that is just me


----------



## BrokenWing

Has anyone managed to get an H100i working with an LGA775 socket CPU?


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrokenWing*
> 
> Has anyone managed to get an H100i working with an LGA775 socket CPU?


You're going to need to get/use the original H100 backplate in order to get it to work on LGA 775 since the new one is only designed for LGA 1155, 1156, 1366, and 2011. I think you can contact Corsair about it and they might just send it to you.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> -13*C is a lot especially from an h60


When I moved from a stock Intel cooler to an H70 (very close to an H60 in performance) I got a 20c drop in temps, and I overclocked the H70 by 800MHz (from 2.5GHz to 3.3 GHz) on a Core 2 quad socket 775 cpu. I would have expected more from the H60 compared to a small air cooler.


----------



## Darksyde

Very new and started looking at cpu cooling recently. The H90 has my interest but I only have one 140 mount in the my case and it is on the bottom. Does anyone know if the hoses are long enough to reach from cpu to behind the power supply of the HAF 922?

Thanks for any input.


----------



## lroy

hoses are 11.5 inches so just measure, if not just get 120 to 140mm adapter.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darksyde*
> 
> Very new and started looking at cpu cooling recently. The H90 has my interest but I only have one 140 mount in the my case and it is on the bottom. Does anyone know if the hoses are long enough to reach from cpu to behind the power supply of the HAF 922?
> 
> Thanks for any input.


I don't think it will fit, especially with any sort of large video card(s). If you "shimmed" it up with say 2 25mm shrouds (50mm total) you might "squeeze" it in there But it would look hideous IMO.

For less money you could go with a refurbished H100 that will fit nicely up top, and outperform the H90 but possibly with more noise depending on your overclock ... see [HERE] $79 - [HERE]

And you can use your 200mm CM fan on top for a pull fan for more cooling and quieter operation (Low/Med settings) for the H100 ... same goes for the H100i











Check out Corsair AIO's and the Haf922 [HERE]

If you spend $5 more than the H90 you can get the latest/greatest H100i ... [HERE] ... which is quieter than the H100 and performs 3c-4c better again depending on your OC and case setup.

And finally the H80i will perform as well as the H90, within a degree or two for $10 less than the H90 [HERE]

It's not that I dislike the H90, I just think there are better solutions out there until the H90 at least matches the H80i in price $$$


----------



## Mergatroid

^ Good advice.


----------



## Darksyde

Thank you for the info!

Randy


----------



## Erick Silver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darksyde*
> 
> Very new and started looking at cpu cooling recently. The H90 has my interest but I only have one 140 mount in the my case and it is on the bottom. Does anyone know if the hoses are long enough to reach from cpu to behind the power supply of the HAF 922?
> 
> Thanks for any input.


I have a HAF922 and am cooling my 1090t with an H60 cooler. Overclocked from 3.2ghz to 3.8ghz idle temps are around 35*c Load gets up to about 55*c. Ambient is around 22*-23*c. I love this little cooler but if I had the funds I would upgrade to the H80i or the H100i. I would steer clear of the H90. Its not that its a bad cooler but there are still a lot of cases out there without 140mm fan support.


----------



## Nova.

Hey guys, instead of making a separate thread. I thought I would ask here as I am sure you guys have knowledge on this.

I am planning a new MicroATX build and am going to be using an H100i in the new 350D. I was wondering whether I should replace the fans that come with it. I know they are good radiator fans but I want something a bit more quiet. I am looking at getting two Gentle Typhoon AP-14s to run at 1450RPM? Does anyone have any thoughts and recommendations on this?


----------



## gtsteviiee

Anyone else think the screws are very.. flimsy?




Is the light on the block supposed to be very dim?


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*
> 
> Anyone else think the screws are very.. flimsy?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the light on the block supposed to be very dim?


That whole back bracket is a pos imo.

tappin from the Note II


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*
> 
> Anyone else think the screws are very.. flimsy?
> 
> 
> Is the light on the block supposed to be very dim?


Mine seemed OK. You don't really need to tighten them too much more after using your fingers IMO. I know this is obvious, just saying -- If you over-tighten any screws, you always risk breaking something. _(Or stripping)_ Might have to ask for a replacement screw and bracket, maybe warranty will cover that, I don't know personally.

About the light, it should be pretty bright, not dim at all unless your light settings are low. Check the Corsair Link program and use the sliders, see if it changes lighting. _(And colors)_
Example from my own block. _(Terrible pic, but you get the idea)_


----------



## gtsteviiee

Ah, I should use the link then.


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*
> 
> Ah, I should use the link then.


Yeah, install that if you want to control the H100i fan speeds and the LED.


----------



## gtsteviiee

How do you knoiw if the pumps working? No matter what settings my fans are at, I still get 65c on my 3570k stock.


----------



## _REAPER_

Is it mounted properly?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*
> 
> How do you knoiw if the pumps working? No matter what settings my fans are at, I still get 65c on my 3570k stock.


Is that idle or under load? If under load, the 65C pretty much show they all working like it should be. The temps depends on the ambient. I think 65C is the optimum temp you can get, you will not get any better temp than that whether you run fans at full speed. My SB-E @4.5GHz max to 62 - 64C (gaming) in 31 - 32C ambient. IVY is a couple degrees hotter, so I think your ambient is around 28C - 29C at least.


----------



## gtsteviiee

Yep, I mounted it properly. I'm going to try out a different thermal paste since I'm using AS5.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*
> 
> Yep, I mounted it properly. I'm going to try out a different thermal paste since I'm using AS5.


The TIM that is on the H100i is Dow Corning which is on par with Shin Etsu. AS5 is fine but it takes 200 hours curing (load/idle periods) time before you would want to OC. Sometimes turning the block assembly sideways so the tubes come out the bottom or top could help if it's too close to the RAM.


----------



## gtsteviiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> The TIM that is on the H100i is Dow Corning which is on par with Shin Etsu. AS5 is fine but it takes 200 hours curing (load/idle periods) time before you would want to OC. Sometimes turning the block assembly sideways so the tubes come out the bottom or top could help if it's too close to the RAM.


Like this?


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> The TIM that is on the H100i is Dow Corning which is on par with Shin Etsu. AS5 is fine but it takes 200 hours curing (load/idle periods) time before you would want to OC. Sometimes turning the block assembly sideways so the tubes come out the bottom or top could help if it's too close to the RAM.
> 
> 
> 
> Like this?
Click to expand...

You have plenty of room between the block and your RAM for the tubes to fit and move with ease. When you mount the block on your CPU make sure you tighten the screws evenly, like putting on a tire. This makes the pressure even on all corners. You have your cooler setup with push fans, what direction is the air moving intake or exhaust? Also, what kind of airflow do you have coming into the case I don't see any front intake fans.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nova.*
> 
> Hey guys, instead of making a separate thread. I thought I would ask here as I am sure you guys have knowledge on this.
> 
> I am planning a new MicroATX build and am going to be using an H100i in the new 350D. I was wondering whether I should replace the fans that come with it. I know they are good radiator fans but I want something a bit more quiet. I am looking at getting two Gentle Typhoon AP-14s to run at 1450RPM? Does anyone have any thoughts and recommendations on this?


It all depends on a few missing facts and some we can't determine yet? That is a beautifully crafted MicroATX case but they all have the same inherent problem of less than ideal case air-flow which puts more pressure on your H100i's fans to perform optimally.

Scenario 1 (Supernova) If your going to use your 2600K chip @ a 4.1 OC and single "reference" GPU with heat exhausted out the back, you'll be fine with the AP-14's ... BUT I'd try the stock fans 1st and see if the noise is really that offensive to you on a LOW setting with your fairly mild OC of 4.1GHz. Because if you change your mind or ever want to run mid (4.5) or high (5.0) OC's then you probably should go with the AP-15s









Scenario 2 (Supernova 2) Haswell chip ... who knows how hot they will run with or without an aggressive overclock ... they're manufactured on the same process (.022 m) as Ivy but with significant architectural changes, running a higher TDP 84w vs Ivy 77w ... will they run cooler, more like SB? or run even hotter than Ivy Bridge? We should know fairly soon though (June 3 HERE). By the way there is no such animal as an i7 4670K (Supernova 2 specs) ... it's either i5 4670K or i7 4770K see *[HERE]* Interestingly I see almost no difference in the 4670K and 4770K, same amount of cores this time (4/8) / 3.4GHz vs 3.5 / 6mb cache vs 8mb









You also should consider if your ever going to run SLI, reference vs factory OC/custom HSF and how much more heat they could add to the equation with such a confined case and airflow? That's a lot of horsepower to stuff into that form factor. So the long and short of it ... personally I'd 1st determine if the H100i stock fans are truly intolerable, noise wise with your final component setup and maximum overclocks.


----------



## CTV

Hey guys

I owned a H100 which I sold along with my old graphite grey 600T. I owned 3 in total: one was the original, and the other two were replacements. All of them were from completely different batches, yet all of them had the same or similar issues relating to the built-in fan controller.

I am thinking of getting either a H80i or H100i, but as you can imagine, I am sceptically hesitant to take the plunge, especially after issues with buzzing / grinding pump noises, completely dead or partially dead (some colours) waterblock LEDs & high pitched squealing / buzzing / whining fans included as part of the package. Not to mention numerous (all unsuccessful) attempts to get a working older generation units. My confidence in Corsair is a bit low right now - sorry, no hate here, just my honest opinion.

I have a few questions/concerns:

1.) Firmware version 1.05 is supposed to fix the grinding pump noise. How successful was this update? Did any H80i/H100i owners still report this issue after the firmware update to 1.05?

2.) Were there higher than normal (compared to the older H80/H100) reports of leakage with these newer generation kits? I somewhere read one guy's H80i or H100i popped in what I would describe a mini explosion.

3.) What is the latest status regarding reports of busted waterblock LEDs? A lot of people reported faulty LEDs straight out of the box or a few weeks after initial purchase.

4.) I found extract quoted by Corsair on Custom PC Review's site while reading up some reviews:

"Beginning in late December, all H100i and H80i units have been shipping with PWM fans which have resolved the issues that people were having with buzzing. We have a fix for people who received earlier production units, which should be available in early February. This fix will include the new PWM fans and a firmware update..."

4.1) After reading a sticky on the Corair forums, I would assume the newer / revised fan part number is: CO-8950002. Is this part number correct and in fact the _newer revised_ fans that is supposed to mitigate these high pitched squealing / buzzing / whining noises emitted from the fans? Do they actually work?

4.2) How would I be able to identify which batch (lot code) and newer actually comes shipped with these _newer revised_ fans? From which batch and up? Do the batch numbers run ascending from a lower batch number to a higher batch number?

5.) This question may sound stupid, but if 2 fans are set up in a push/pull configuration through a rad or heatsink (CPU), does is effectively _increase_, perhaps even double: (a.) the static pressure and (b.) the CFM airflow when compared to a single fan? I need to know as I am trying to calculate airflow and potential pressures inside my chassis to ultimately achieve a slight positive pressure

Apologies for the long post any many questions but would highly appreciate some feedback. Thanks


----------



## Erick Silver

All very good question and well put IMO. Good Job. I am sure that the guys will answer your questions.


----------



## cravinmild

Well my H100 is all but dead and I'm looking to replace it. I am wondering if the h110 will fit a CM HAF 932. I like the idea of just having a pump and no fancy bling bling like my h70 which still runs perfectly since launch.


----------



## bond32

Just got the h100i in with 2 noctua nf-f12 fans. It is replacing the kraken x60. I wasn't happy with the kraken performance, as well as one of the screws on the mounting braket was turning on itself so it wasn't getting tight. Only problem is I ordered it from amazon as "like new" and it doesn't connect to the board usb. I am sending it back and a new one is on its way, just a little let down.

So far I am optimistic it will do as well if not better than the kraken. The larger diameter tubing is very nice.


----------



## GoldenTree

Do you guys mind if I also ask a question or two. I was wondering from your first hand experience on how loud the h100i really is. My second question is regarding fans, but I think you guys may be able to answer it. I am quite puzzled on what fan type to get. So I was thinking that I want a quite build so I would just get some of corsair's quite edition fans but something struck me. What if I just get the performance one and dumb them down? Which is the best option? Thank you in advance for your replies


----------



## AlphaBravo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTree*
> 
> Do you guys mind if I also ask a question or two. I was wondering from your first hand experience on how loud the h100i really is. My second question is regarding fans, but I think you guys may be able to answer it. I am quite puzzled on what fan type to get. So I was thinking that I want a quite build so I would just get some of corsair's quite edition fans but something struck me. What if I just get the performance one and dumb them down? Which is the best option? Thank you in advance for your replies


I thought I had a good tolerance for noise, but I found the fans that came with the H100i were simply too loud, even when I ran them at low RPM. They had a grinding or a vibration associated with them. I could not stand to listen to them anymore, so I bought Noctua NF-F12 fans. The Noctuas are unbelievably quiet and well worth the money that I spent on them.

Here is the thread I posted on the Corsair forum where I compared H100 fans to H100i fans to the Nocutas.

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=117147

You can draw you own conclusions from the videos.

I hope this helps you.


----------



## GoldenTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaBravo*
> 
> I thought I had a good tolerance for noise, but I found the fans that came with the H100i were simply too loud, even when I ran them at low RPM. They had a grinding or a vibration associated with them. I could not stand to listen to them anymore, so I bought Noctua NF-F12 fans. The Noctuas are unbelievably quiet and well worth the money that I spent on them.
> 
> Here is the thread I posted on the Corsair forum where I compared H100 fans to H100i fans to the Nocutas.
> 
> http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=117147
> 
> You can draw you own conclusions from the videos.
> 
> I hope this helps you.


Alright thanks, I will consider Noctua


----------



## bond32

+1 for noctua. I too thought I would be fine with whatever fan peformed best for cheapest... I was wrong. Especially considering my pc sits right next to me about 2 feet away. Noctua nf-f12 really are worth the money. I was hesitant for the longest time but they are worth it. Loudest thing in my pc is the pump on the h100i...


----------



## DUpgrade

I never bothered with the stock fans on my H80i and went with Corsair SP120 quiet edition fans. I'm sure there are better fans with higher static pressure but I was all about quiet operation. I don't even hear my rig running anymore it's so quiet now which is what I was after. Never had any issues with noises, the pump or LEDs on the block either. So far it's working fine for my needs until the upgrade bug hits again and do a full custom loop of my CPU and GPU.


----------



## GoldenTree

Thank you guys for all you opinions. I have changed my sig to all Noctua and to my surprise it was only 20 dollars more that what the rig was with the af's and the sp's from corsair.


----------



## DUpgrade

Noctua's are good I just can't stand the colors.


----------



## GoldenTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Noctua's are good I just can't stand the colors.


I think it will blend in nice with my rig coming up


----------



## bond32

I agree. Thank goodness my 2 noctua fans will be covered by the front of the haf xb case mesh.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTree*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Noctua's are good I just can't stand the colors.
> 
> 
> 
> I think it will blend in nice with my rig coming up
Click to expand...

Are you making a 90's era beige-esque style desktop? I was kind of glad when that color was retire when black became more mainstream.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Are you making a 90's era beige-esque style desktop? I was kind of glad when that color was retire when black became more mainstream.


Agreed the beige color does not go with anything anymore.. I would paint the fans to match the color of your PC


----------



## gtsteviiee

It's been almost 1 week and Corsair has not replied to my RMA request yet.. What gives?


----------



## CTV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*
> 
> It's been almost 1 week and Corsair has not replied to my RMA request yet.. What gives?


Been there before


----------



## GoldenTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Are you making a 90's era beige-esque style desktop? I was kind of glad when that color was retire when black became more mainstream.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Agreed the beige color does not go with anything anymore.. I would paint the fans to match the color of your PC


Well not really, I have seen people with the fans with a red and black theme it looked really nice with the same type of things I have but bigger mainly the rog board


----------



## justanoldman

I completely understand why people are not crazy about the Noctua colors. You wonder how many they would sell if they made other colors. Anyway, here is the best I could do. I care a lot more about the sound quality than the looks.


----------



## GoldenTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> I completely understand why people are not crazy about the Noctua colors. You wonder how many they would sell if they made other colors. Anyway, here is the best I could do. I care a lot more about the sound quality than the looks.


I love the look of the fans in that build. And nice I have not seen someone extend the h220 like that before







. See they do look good in a black, red and brown build


----------



## cravinmild

H110 ordered


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*
> 
> It's been almost 1 week and Corsair has not replied to my RMA request yet.. What gives?


Try [email protected]


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> H110 ordered


When you get it pics or it didn't happen.


----------



## GoldenTree

Hey guys I had noticed in general and on reviews of this case that people rotate the h100i 180 degreese and not like the showcase build from Corsair. The way Corsair does it, it looks a a lot better. But why? does it affect air flow. Oh and guys, thanks for your help on my other question I have it all sorted out now.









What I mean





What Corsair does


----------



## Cyrious

Guys, ive been wondering: would switching my H50 rad fans from a pair of Delta WFB1212M fans to a pair of Coolermaster Blade Master fans be a good choice?

The Deltas that i have on right now have the following specs:
- Size: 120x120x25mm
- Speed: 2100 RPM
- Airflow: 72.4 CFM
- Static Pressure: 3.40mm H2O
- Noise: 34 dBA

Whereas the coolermasters have:
- Size: 120x120x25mm
- Speed: 2000 RPM
- Airflow: 76.8 CFM
- Static Pressure: 3.90mm H2O
- Noise: 32 dBA

Yes i know the coolermaster's have superior specs but even so I'd like to hear it from you guys. The whole setup is going to be used to cool an i7-930, for a brief time at a high overclock and then for a much more extended period at a much more sane (and energy efficient) overclock.
And before you ask, yes i have already bought the blade masters. If it turns out they arent as good as i thought they'll end up on one of my Xigmatek Gaia coolers.


----------



## GoldenTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyrious*
> 
> Guys, ive been wondering: would switching my H50 rad fans from a pair of Delta WFB1212M fans to a pair of Coolermaster Blade Master fans be a good choice?
> 
> The Deltas that i have on right now have the following specs:
> - Size: 120x120x25mm
> - Speed: 2100 RPM
> - Airflow: 72.4 CFM
> - Static Pressure: 3.40mm H2O
> - Noise: 34 dBA
> 
> Whereas the coolermasters have:
> - Size: 120x120x25mm
> - Speed: 2000 RPM
> - Airflow: 76.8 CFM
> - Static Pressure: 3.90mm H2O
> - Noise: 32 dBA
> 
> Yes i know the coolermaster's have superior specs but even so I'd like to hear it from you guys. The whole setup is going to be used to cool an i7-930, for a brief time at a high overclock and then for a much more extended period at a much more sane (and energy efficient) overclock.
> And before you ask, yes i have already bought the blade masters. If it turns out they arent as good as i thought they'll end up on one of my Xigmatek Gaia coolers.


Then why not test them if you have them ???


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTree*
> 
> Then why not test them if you have them ???


Cause they're still in the mail lol. Bought one of the blade masters and a silverstone off the Marketplace, and the other, the other Gaia, some PWM splitters, and a Kill-a-watt off newegg, and both packages are supposed to arrive saturday.


----------



## GoldenTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyrious*
> 
> Cause they're still in the mail lol. Bought one of the blade masters and a silverstone off the Marketplace, and the other, the other Gaia, some PWM splitters, and a Kill-a-watt off newegg, and both packages are supposed to arrive saturday.


Oh I understand, well I have no experience with it i'm sorry


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTree*
> 
> Hey guys I had noticed in general and on reviews of this case that people rotate the h100i 180 degreese and not like the showcase build from Corsair. The way Corsair does it, it looks a a lot better. But why? does it affect air flow. Oh and guys, thanks for your help on my other question I have it all sorted out now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I mean
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What Corsair does


Just personal preference. No performance difference.


----------



## GoldenTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Just personal preference. No performance difference.


Oh, thank you


----------



## neXen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> I never bothered with the stock fans on my H80i and went with Corsair SP120 quiet edition fans.


Why would you pay more money for the stock fans with a lowered max RPM??

were the colored rings worth the $20?


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neXen*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> I never bothered with the stock fans on my H80i and went with Corsair SP120 quiet edition fans.
> 
> 
> 
> Why would you pay more money for the stock fans with a lowered max RPM??
> 
> were the colored rings worth the $20?
Click to expand...

Who said I paid more? I got the cooler and fans (twin pack) on sale.


----------



## Degree

Hey guys, I'm going to replace my stock fans from my H100 because I just can't stand the sound of them with most likely the AP-15s (unless there are other options) and was wondering, do I also need to get a fan controller? Or could I just plug them into the H100 block/controller?

Thanks!


----------



## Imprezzion

Aiiight.

I've been the proud owner of a H100i for quite a while, had a H60i as well in a spare build but sold that..
The H100i is cooled by the stock fans beneath the rad in push, and 2 Enermax 140MM 750RPM Apollish Blue in pull. I had 4 of these in pull but one of them has a worn bearing so I put the stock fans on as push for a while..

Now, I just bought me a 22 month old (Original invoice present so 2 months of warranty left) H70 with all mounts still there, only missing a fan. For $37 shipped lol. Feels like a epic deal to me (€25 for the H70 + €3 shipping here...)
I am going to use that on my S775 build with a modded S771 CPU. Yes, there's a mod available that allows S771 Xeons to run on regular S775 boards. It's a tricky mod, but i'm gunna try it and needed a cooler for it.
What else then a Hydro series!


----------



## Destrto

I have a quick question.. On the H100, the 3 pin fan connector that provides sensor info.. It is supposed to be plugged into the CPU-fan header on the mobo.. Is there any harm in plugging it into a different fan header instead of that one?

I have to run the Molex connector around my RAM and into a routing hole on my carbide 500R. And I have a chassis fan header right next to that spot on my mobo..

All of the functions will still operate the same regardless of which header its plugged into, wont they?


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I have a quick question.. On the H100, the 3 pin fan connector that provides sensor info.. It is supposed to be plugged into the CPU-fan header on the mobo.. Is there any harm in plugging it into a different fan header instead of that one?
> 
> I have to run the Molex connector around my RAM and into a routing hole on my carbide 500R. And I have a chassis fan header right next to that spot on my mobo..
> 
> All of the functions will still operate the same regardless of which header its plugged into, wont they?


The CPU-fan header connector is just to let the mobo know you have a CPU fan plugged in. Some computers will panic if they don't detect a CPU-fan and will warn you or not POST fully. All that particular connector does is uses the H100 pump speed as RPM. You might be able to disable this check in your BIOS and use any header or a molex connector.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> The CPU-fan header connector is just to let the mobo know you have a CPU fan plugged in. Some computers will panic if they don't detect a CPU-fan and will warn you or not POST fully. All that particular connector does is uses the H100 pump speed as RPM. You might be able to disable this check in your BIOS and use any header or a molex connector.


Good deal. That split was bugging me with the wires going in 2 different directions. I've moved it down and things look a little cleaner now. Thanks for the advice.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm going to replace my stock fans from my H100 because I just can't stand the sound of them with most likely the AP-15s (unless there are other options) and was wondering, do I also need to get a fan controller? Or could I just plug them into the H100 block/controller?
> 
> Thanks!


Anyone? I'm hoping to buy the fans today


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm going to replace my stock fans from my H100 because I just can't stand the sound of them with most likely the AP-15s (unless there are other options) and was wondering, do I also need to get a fan controller? Or could I just plug them into the H100 block/controller?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone? I'm hoping to buy the fans today
Click to expand...

Noctua nf-f12 man, all the way. Expensive but these are highly regarded as the best fans period.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Anyone? I'm hoping to buy the fans today


You can plug them into the block controller. It will still control aftermarket fans the same as the stock fans. They will still operate at the fan profiles set by the controller.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Noctua nf-f12 man, all the way. Expensive but these are highly regarded as the best fans period.


There's no such thing as "the best fans period".


----------



## joe2108

Any suggestion good fan 14cm for my cosair H110 with Blue theme? Thanks


*
My OC 4,7*



*OC 4,9*


----------



## Fieldsweeper

what if I use the H110??

lol you left us out, of all people


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieldsweeper*
> 
> what if I use the H110??
> 
> lol you left us out, of all people


Um, 140mm to 120mm adapter and problem solved!


----------



## gtsteviiee

Finally got everything settled


----------



## Fieldsweeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fieldsweeper*
> 
> what if I use the H110??
> 
> lol you left us out, of all people
> 
> 
> 
> Um, 140mm to 120mm adapter and problem solved!
Click to expand...

what problem? I am talking about the owners club, my case is fine with the 140mm fans, I am saying that there was now way to be in the club since the form didn't list the H110


----------



## Imprezzion

With a blue theme i'd reccommend the Enermax Apollish Blue 140MM 750RPM for silence, and 1500RPM for performance. They look epic, but are useless with a controller as the LEDs dim along with fanspeed...


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm going to replace my stock fans from my H100 because I just can't stand the sound of them with most likely the AP-15s (unless there are other options) and was wondering, do I also need to get a fan controller? Or could I just plug them into the H100 block/controller?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone? I'm hoping to buy the fans today
Click to expand...

Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 is a good choice of fan. You should be able to connect & run them directly from H100 controller.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 is a good choice of fan. You should be able to connect & run them directly from H100 controller.


Alright thanks!


----------



## Greenie

So my new PC parts are all in except for the fans I ordered for my H110:
Noctua NF A14 FLX

So what I have an easy acces to are these:
https://www.alternate.be/html/product/listing.html?navId=751&navId=750&tk=7&lk=3889

Do you guys have one that you would recommend for the H110 ?
(In Pull configuration)


----------



## Zillerella

Just curious, but I got a friend that got a littlebrother. The littlebrother using the H100 without the fans mounted to it. Is this good or bad for hes PC?

He got the 3570k not oc... So would hear if this was good or bad. (like a passive cooler)


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> Just curious, but I got a friend that got a littlebrother. The littlebrother using the H100 without the fans mounted to it. Is this good or bad for hes PC?
> 
> He got the 3570k not oc... So would hear if this was good or bad. (like a passive cooler)


That's like running a heatsink only without a fan on it. The rad is going to get hot and if they're running it at load for long it could damage the pump. Any particular reason they decided not to use any fans on it? What temps are they getting doing that too?


----------



## Zillerella

Idle temps are around 35-37 and the load temps is 55-60...

Is this bad and should we fix it for him?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> Idle temps are around 35-37 and the load temps is 55-60...
> 
> Is this bad and should we fix it for him?


This is bad







... and although your temps are fine, I find your "load temps" highly suspect unless your ambients are down around the freezing mark or maybe even the low 40'sF. Or your not truly loading your CPU with say P95 (Prime 95) for at least an hour. Or you have incredibly good case airflow and are getting some airflow to the radiator.

A passive AIO (closed loop cooler) is a constant heat loop without air movement around or through the radiator. An AIO is not a cooler system without fans because the radiator doesn't dissipate hardly any heat unless you blow (some) air across it in contrast to a heatsink which does an excellent job of transferring the CPU or GPU heat to the air via conduction and convection. See *[HERE]*

A properly loaded/stressed 3570K (no OC) with normal ambients (22c) should see load temps in the 80c+ range or higher with extended time if there is "no" air movement around the radiator









EDIT: If those are truly your load temps under P95, then you are fine if your monitoring software is reporting accurately ... i.e. Realtemp and HDMonitor or whatever reporting the same load temps. I just find those load temps odd with no fans running ... or you have one heck of a "cool" running "golden" chip there that is just begging to be overclocked









@ Bradley below ... I read your thread and all the advise is right on, wish I could add something besides the Un-Happy reality you have a less than average chip, maybe even borderline miss-binned chip that barely made Intel specs. Happened to me with several Opty165 chips until I removed the IHS on one, something I probably would never consider with your $500+ SB-E ... frustrating as all heck .. Full blown custom loop is really your only option for mid to high end OC's with that chip or you could ebay it and hope you get a better one on the next round


----------



## Zillerella

the room temp is pretty standard...

So what you say that this is bad and we should do something about it?


----------



## BradleyW

Just wondering if someone could help me please.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1388378/issues-with-closed-loops
Thank you.


----------



## Kaiyoko-Desu

I'm thinking of selling my H100 and getting a H80i in preparation for getting a smaller case like a CM Scout II or something. Do I lose some cooling potential, stay about the same, or actually gain?

Currently using a i7 920 (C0 Stepping) @ 3.2ghz, pulling 57-60C during prime95 and a few degrees lower when playing games; hyperthreading is off but I'm thinking of turning it back on for streaming. Using 2x Swiftech Fans that came with a friend's H220 since he didnt need them and were quieter than the stock H100 fans. Rest of my specs are in my rig-sig.


----------



## NorKris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaiyoko-Desu*
> 
> I'm thinking of selling my H100 and getting a H80i in preparation for getting a smaller case like a CM Scout II or something. Do I lose some cooling potential, stay about the same, or actually gain?
> 
> Currently using a i7 920 (C0 Stepping) @ 3.2ghz, pulling 57-60C during prime95 and a few degrees lower when playing games; hyperthreading is off but I'm thinking of turning it back on for streaming. Using 2x Swiftech Fans that came with a friend's H220 since he didnt need them and were quieter than the stock H100 fans. Rest of my specs are in my rig-sig.


ur temps will go up.. not by much tho
h100 have a more surface area and can have 4 fans


----------



## Greenie

Build my new rig yesterday (incl. i5 3570K & H110), but I'm a bit unsure about the temperatures:

No OC with stock Bios:
Prime95 (showing 3.8GHz) was about 60C on my hottest core with 55C average over the cores.

I was expecting better results, but perhaps I was mistaken ?
(Roughly 18C room temp)

H110 with 2x NoiseBlocker PK-3 at 1600 RPM


----------



## Zillerella

Quote:


> the room temp is pretty standard...
> 
> So what you say that this is bad and we should do something about it?


Anyone? We also discovered that all the fans are set as intake. Maybe that is bad too because the heat will just stay inside the case... Any suggestion?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> the room temp is pretty standard...
> 
> So what you say that this is bad and we should do something about it?
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone? We also discovered that all the fans are set as intake. Maybe that is bad too because the heat will just stay inside the case... Any suggestion?
Click to expand...

What is the ambient temp? About the load temp, is that temp when running Prime95 or any other stress test or just gaming? Like TomcatV said, the ambient must be pretty low, to get that load temp without fans on the radiator, if you're stressing using Prime95 or any other stress test.

If all fans are intake & the only way out is the radiator then the air rushing out through the radiator will help a bit but ambient must be pretty low.


----------



## Zillerella

ambient are the standard 22 celcius and it's just under normal gaming no stress test no oc. But I think that my friend will do something about it because I dont like it...


----------



## Devildog83

Has anyone used the Corsair SP 120 performance PWM fans with the H100i and do they work well with the Corsair link?


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenie*
> 
> Build my new rig yesterday (incl. i5 3570K & H110), but I'm a bit unsure about the temperatures:
> 
> No OC with stock Bios:
> Prime95 (showing 3.8GHz) was about 60C on my hottest core with 55C average over the cores.
> 
> I was expecting better results, but perhaps I was mistaken ?
> (Roughly 18C room temp)
> 
> H110 with 2x NoiseBlocker PK-3 at 1600 RPM


Intel will run a lot hotter than AMD. IMO that's not too bad for only 1600 RPM. I don't know the fans, are they SP fans.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Has anyone used the Corsair SP 120 performance PWM fans with the H100i and do they work well with the Corsair link?


I use the SP120 quiets on my H80i and have no issues using Corsair Link to control them. With that said I just leave them at 100% all the time but you could setup profiles based on temps and such I suppose.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaiyoko-Desu*
> 
> I'm thinking of selling my H100 and getting a H80i in preparation for getting a smaller case like a CM Scout II or something. Do I lose some cooling potential, stay about the same, or actually gain?
> 
> Currently using a i7 920 (C0 Stepping) @ 3.2ghz, pulling 57-60C during prime95 and a few degrees lower when playing games; hyperthreading is off but I'm thinking of turning it back on for streaming. Using 2x Swiftech Fans that came with a friend's H220 since he didnt need them and were quieter than the stock H100 fans. Rest of my specs are in my rig-sig.


Your temps may go up slightly as NorKris mentions above ... Nice review with your i7 920 *[HERE]*



With slight modding you could also fit your H100 into the CM Storm Scout 2 in the front,
WITH or WITHOUT removing your HDD cage







see *[HERE]* *HERE* and *HERE*









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenie*
> 
> Build my new rig yesterday (incl. i5 3570K & H110), but I'm a bit unsure about the temperatures:
> No OC with stock Bios:
> Prime95 (showing 3.8GHz) was about 60C on my hottest core with 55C average over the cores.
> 
> I was expecting better results, but perhaps I was mistaken ?
> (Roughly 18C room temp)
> H110 with 2x NoiseBlocker PK-3 at 1600 RPM


Because your only running @ stock speeds it's hard to tell because the H110 will really only begin to show it's strengths in Med+ to High overclocks! Depending on your case setup/airflow, I think your running as much as 7c-10c hotter than you should at stock and ambients of 18c ... take a look at *THIS* thread for a quick look at solutions including a re-mount and rotating the block 90 degrees.

Edit: What are your idle temps at stock? They shouldn't be more than 5c-6c over ambient or possibly even cooler depending on your case setup.

By the way how do you like the "NoiseBlockers" relative to the stock fans? ...
i.e. degrees improvement? noise improvement? if any?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> ambient are the standard 22 celcius and it's just under normal gaming no stress test no oc. But I think that my friend will do something about it because I dont like it...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> Anyone? We also discovered that all the fans are set as intake. Maybe that is bad too because the heat will just stay inside the case... Any suggestion?
Click to expand...

Well that explains a lot, if your using typical gaming programs as your stress test, depending on the game, your CPU temps will generally run 10c even 15c cooler than a P95 stress test! ... some exceptions being BF3 multi64 or surprisingly even Serious Sam 3 single player









Also the fact that all fans are intake (2-4x120mm???) you'll have sufficient positive pressure to "force" some air through the radiator if it is mounted at the top with ventilation grates (120/140mm fan mounts) in the top of the case for exhaust. BUT your motherboard and GPU temperatures will suffer without optimized airflow like in the typical example below.



To further prove your point to your buddy, just DL Prime95 2.9 *[HERE]* and run the program for an hour to show him why your reasoning makes sense


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> I use the SP120 quiets on my H80i and have no issues using Corsair Link to control them. With that said I just leave them at 100% all the time but you could setup profiles based on temps and such I suppose.


I have an SP 120 quiet on it new with the 1 good SP stock fan but the tepms are slightly higher. I was wonder about the PWM fans working with the Corsair link. The 120 quiets only run at 1200 rpm.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Just wondering if someone could help me please.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1388378/issues-with-closed-loops
> Thank you.


The only thing I can suggest is to make sure there is nothing obstructing the block from seating on the cpu 100% (like a row of capacitors close to the cpu socket). You can test for this in a couple of ways, but just turning the block 90 degrees usually fixes the problem.
As others have mentioned, you could have just gotten a crappy cpu as well. Not all are created equal.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenie*
> 
> Build my new rig yesterday (incl. i5 3570K & H110), but I'm a bit unsure about the temperatures:
> 
> No OC with stock Bios:
> Prime95 (showing 3.8GHz) was about 60C on my hottest core with 55C average over the cores.
> 
> I was expecting better results, but perhaps I was mistaken ?
> (Roughly 18C room temp)
> 
> H110 with 2x NoiseBlocker PK-3 at 1600 RPM


If you're not overclocking at all, I would say your temps are a little too high. My i5 2500K will hit about 70c with a 1GHz overclock using Intel Burn Test and running it for about a half hour. Your temps are not horrible, just a little higher than I would expect for a stock clock.


----------



## Zillerella

Quote:


> Also the fact that all fans are intake (2-4x120mm???) you'll have sufficient positive pressure to "force" some air through the radiator if it is mounted at the top with ventilation grates (120/140mm fan mounts) in the top of the case for exhaust. BUT your motherboard and GPU temperatures will suffer without optimized airflow like in the typical example below.
> 
> To further prove your point to your buddy, just DL Prime95 2.9 [HERE] and run the program for an hour to show him why your reasoning makes sense


Thanks I will tell him this.
I think he would make the rear fan as exhaust and atleast put 1 fan on the h100.. But the problem is that he is using the Cooler master storm scout 2. And there is not space for both fans and radiator inside so the fans or rad have to be outside and then the other inside of the case.


----------



## Destrto

I have a quick airflow question, even though I should probably know this already.
In the 500R, I have the H100 installed in the top mount, with air being exhausted out the top. I have turned the rear case fan from exhaust to intake, making all of my fans intake except for the fans on the H100. I know the diagrams I've seen all say to have cold air coming IN from the front, side, and bottom of the case and exhausted OUT the rear and top.

My question is this.. Is that standard fan configuration still regarded as the best choice? or could this positive pressure setup work any better? OR, is it merely users choice?


----------



## Zillerella

Quote:


> I have a quick airflow question, even though I should probably know this already.
> In the 500R, I have the H100 installed in the top mount, with air being exhausted out the top. I have turned the rear case fan from exhaust to intake, making all of my fans intake except for the fans on the H100. I know the diagrams I've seen all say to have cold air coming IN from the front, side, and bottom of the case and exhausted OUT the rear and top.
> 
> My question is this.. Is that standard fan configuration still regarded as the best choice? or could this positive pressure setup work any better? OR, is it merely users choice?


I would do the same if you exhaust the air throught the radiator in a push or pull setup. So I would say that your setup is pretty standard. But you can always test defferent fan setups to see if you get any improvement in temps


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I have a quick airflow question, even though I should probably know this already.
> In the 500R, I have the H100 installed in the top mount, with air being exhausted out the top. I have turned the rear case fan from exhaust to intake, making all of my fans intake except for the fans on the H100. I know the diagrams I've seen all say to have cold air coming IN from the front, side, and bottom of the case and exhausted OUT the rear and top.
> 
> My question is this.. Is that standard fan configuration still regarded as the best choice? or could this positive pressure setup work any better? OR, is it merely users choice?


What board do you have? Because I know with the sabertooth that vrm heatsink gets really hot, hottest component in the pc and I think that rear fan as exhaust would be slightly better. Be better to dump that hot air before it reaches the rad in my opinion.


----------



## Zillerella

Quote:


> What board do you have? Because I know with the sabertooth that vrm heatsink gets really hot, hottest component in the pc and I think that rear fan as exhaust would be slightly better. Be better to dump that hot air before it reaches the rad in my opinion.


Well that is why you got an exhaust fan on the sabertooth board? Just curious because I want this board, but how hot are you talking about?


----------



## bond32

Well the fan at the back on my case is exhaust and I have my h100i as intake. The Vrm gets hot but it's designed to withstand very high temps. Full load it gets in the 85 C range, but that's still within its limits. It has very good heatsinks on the Vrm and Northbridge.


----------



## Zillerella

But do you mean the case fan or the fan on the sabertooth? These temps sound very high. Because I want to use the case rear fan an intake and the h100/i at top as exhaust. And I dont like the idea of 85 celcius hot air passing throught my radiator


----------



## bond32

If you don't like the idea of that hot air through your radiator then you probably won't want to use the rear fan as intake. All vrm temps get that warm but most boards don't have a thermocouple on the Vrm where the sabertooth does so you can se the temp itself.


----------



## Zillerella

I want to use the rear fan as intake because my h100i will exhaust air out of the case... This is only what im thinking Don't got any of the parts I want yet.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> What board do you have? Because I know with the sabertooth that vrm heatsink gets really hot, hottest component in the pc and I think that rear fan as exhaust would be slightly better. Be better to dump that hot air before it reaches the rad in my opinion.


I have the ASUS M5A99fx Pro r2.0. I have attached a small fan to the VRM heatsink to help push any hot air away from that area. The rear fan, as far as i can tell, does not pull or push much air to that particular spot due to it being nearly on top of the VRM heatsink. I can set my fingers on the heatsink and not feel any air coming across it. (which is why i attached the extra fan).

This observation I made is also the reason why I turned my exhaust fan into an intake. So that cold air is being drawn in from multiple areas. Since my H100 fans are the strongest in the whole case, I figured it would be best to make those the only exhaust fans so that the hot air only has one direction to go. Up and out.


----------



## Greenie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Because your only running @ stock speeds it's hard to tell because the H110 will really only begin to show it's strengths in Med+ to High overclocks! Depending on your case setup/airflow, I think your running as much as 7c-10c hotter than you should at stock and ambients of 18c ... take a look at *THIS* thread for a quick look at solutions including a re-mount and rotating the block 90 degrees.
> 
> Edit: What are your idle temps at stock? They shouldn't be more than 5c-6c over ambient or possibly even cooler depending on your case setup.
> 
> By the way how do you like the "NoiseBlockers" relative to the stock fans? ...
> i.e. degrees improvement? noise improvement? if any?




Btw: why is there such a big difference between HWmonitor and RealTemp ?
(Realtemp seems to be jumping up and down 6degrees atm as well)

I'm particulary interested in how off these temps are, as when mounting the H110 I ended up turning the screw holders wild in the backplate. (As in the holders are turning with the screws, they are turning without resistance inside the backplate)
The H110 seems firmly attached, but I doubt I'll be able to refit it.

I'm not disliking the 2 noiseblocker PK-3, they're pretty quiet, seem to have decent airflow and a good static pressure. (although I'm biased as my other case fans are making my ears bleed :x, damn sickleflow's -- noctua replacements comming)
Nothing to compare it with though, installed them straight on with the PK-3's


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> Thanks I will tell him this.
> I think he would make the rear fan as exhaust and atleast put 1 fan on the h100.. But the problem is that he is using the Cooler master storm scout 2. And there is not space for both fans and radiator inside so the fans or rad have to be outside and then the other inside of the case.


Very good ... Did you see this in my previous post to Kaiyoko-Desu?

With slight modding you could also fit your H100 into the CM Storm Scout 2 in the front,
WITH or WITHOUT removing your HDD cage







see *[HERE]* *HERE* and *HERE*









Personally if I had the CM Storm Scout 2 and were not doing a lot of overclocking/benching, the quick easy solution would be to mount the rad on the inside of the case at the top, and then mount the 2 120mm fans outside the case on top in a pull config AND still have my rear 120mm as exhaust as in the previous picture of case/airflow. For that config to work ideally for me in the HAF922 I did add in a Silverstone FM121 120mm high CFM fan running @appx 1300rpm in the front to provide additional cool air to the radiator along with the std CM 200mm fan already there. Positive pressure alone to force air out through the rad (no rad fans) just doesn't work that well because it is nearly impossibly to seal every crack/USB port etc to have a truly "air-tight" case.

In the intense desert heat last summer I solved my Northbridge problem with a simple mod (80mm fan) ... more details *[HERE]*
This is why I also prefer the afforementioned semi-push/pull top exhaust setup because of overclocking and keeping my motherboard/GPU 3c-4c cooler overall while only loosing 1c-2c degrees on my CPU compared to an "Intake" setup with the H100









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I have a quick airflow question, even though I should probably know this already.
> In the 500R, I have the H100 installed in the top mount, with air being exhausted out the top. I have turned the rear case fan from exhaust to intake, making all of my fans intake except for the fans on the H100. I know the diagrams I've seen all say to have cold air coming IN from the front, side, and bottom of the case and exhausted OUT the rear and top.
> 
> My question is this.. Is that standard fan configuration still regarded as the best choice? or could this positive pressure setup work any better? OR, is it merely users choice?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> If you don't like the idea of that hot air through your radiator then you probably won't want to use the rear fan as intake. All vrm temps get that warm but most boards don't have a thermocouple on the Vrm where the sabertooth does so you can se the temp itself.
Click to expand...

It is still user's choice, depends on your overall ambients/overclocks/dust management etc. I fiddled around with positive pressure (dust management) even reversing the rear 120mm but it wasn't as ideal as the setup I described above and your 500R's additional 200mm side fan will probably work even better than mine in the same config as above









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenie*
> 
> 
> 
> Btw: why is there such a big difference between HWmonitor and RealTemp ?
> (Realtemp seems to be jumping up and down 6degrees atm as well)
> 
> I'm particulary interested in how off these temps are, as when mounting the H110 I ended up turning the screw holders wild in the backplate. (As in the holders are turning with the screws, they are turning without resistance inside the backplate)
> The H110 seems firmly attached, but I doubt I'll be able to refit it.


I don't know why your Realtemp vs HDMonitor temps are so out of whack (sync). In every build I've done they are usually no more than a degree (sometimes 2c) off from each other. Try re-installing RealTemp? Your HDMonitor IDLE temps look good to me @ 18c ambients, and your load temps aren't terribly bad, but I'd be happier if they were 5c-7c less for an H110 in the HDMonitor readings. Your Realtemp Load (max) readings 58-63-63-61c just seem too high to me for no overclock and ambients of 18c. Also a bit odd that RealTemp is showing a 10.3% load @idle unless an SSD is doing garbage collection or something else? Switch your RealTemp "timer" reading to watts and see if that matches HDMonitor's "watt" (Powers/Package) readings?

Something is wrong if you can't refit it (Re-mount it?). A lot of guys use plastic shims/washers to take out the play in the backplate mount, bugged the heck out of me on some builds, but it shouldn't effect mounting of the block in most cases unless I'm missing some new info?


----------



## Zillerella

Quote:


> Very good ... Did you see this in my previous post to Kaiyoko-Desu?
> 
> With slight modding you could also fit your H100 into the CM Storm Scout 2 in the front,
> WITH or WITHOUT removing your HDD cage see [HERE] HERE and HERE
> 
> Personally if I had the CM Storm Scout 2 and were not doing a lot of overclocking/benching, the quick easy solution would be to mount the rad on the inside of the case at the top, and then mount the 2 120mm fans outside the case on top in a pull config AND still have my rear 120mm as exhaust as in the previous picture of case/airflow. For that config to work ideally for me in the HAF922 I did add in a Silverstone FM121 120mm high CFM fan running @appx 1300rpm in the front to provide additional cool air to the radiator along with the std CM 200mm fan already there. Positive pressure alone to force air out through the rad (no rad fans) just doesn't work that well because it is nearly impossibly to seal every crack/USB port etc to have a truly "air-tight" case.
> 
> In the intense desert heat last summer I solved my Northbridge problem with a simple mod (80mm fan) ... more details [HERE]
> This is why I also prefer the afforementioned semi-push/pull top exhaust setup because of overclocking and keeping my motherboard/GPU 3c-4c cooler overall while only loosing 1c-2c degrees on my CPU compared to an "Intake" setup with the H100


You are a GOD!!









This is what he will do now, because I can't see any future for the setup in the pc right now


----------



## Destrto

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Very good ... Did you see this in my previous post to Kaiyoko-Desu?
> 
> With slight modding you could also fit your H100 into the CM Storm Scout 2 in the front,
> WITH or WITHOUT removing your HDD cage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> see *[HERE]* *HERE* and *HERE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally if I had the CM Storm Scout 2 and were not doing a lot of overclocking/benching, the quick easy solution would be to mount the rad on the inside of the case at the top, and then mount the 2 120mm fans outside the case on top in a pull config AND still have my rear 120mm as exhaust as in the previous picture of case/airflow. For that config to work ideally for me in the HAF922 I did add in a Silverstone FM121 120mm high CFM fan running @appx 1300rpm in the front to provide additional cool air to the radiator along with the std CM 200mm fan already there. Positive pressure alone to force air out through the rad (no rad fans) just doesn't work that well because it is nearly impossibly to seal every crack/USB port etc to have a truly "air-tight" case.
> 
> In the intense desert heat last summer I solved my Northbridge problem with a simple mod (80mm fan) ... more details *[HERE]*
> This is why I also prefer the afforementioned semi-push/pull top exhaust setup because of overclocking and keeping my motherboard/GPU 3c-4c cooler overall while only loosing 1c-2c degrees on my CPU compared to an "Intake" setup with the H100
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is still user's choice, depends on your overall ambients/overclocks/dust management etc. I fiddled around with positive pressure (dust management) even reversing the rear 120mm but it wasn't as ideal as the setup I described above and your 500R's additional 200mm side fan will probably work even better than mine in the same config as above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know why your Realtemp vs HDMonitor temps are so out of whack (sync). In every build I've done they are usually no more than a degree (sometimes 2c) off from each other. Try re-installing RealTemp? Your HDMonitor IDLE temps look good to me @ 18c ambients, and your load temps aren't terribly bad, but I'd be happier if they were 5c-7c less for an H110 in the HDMonitor readings. Your Realtemp Load (max) readings 58-63-63-61c just seem too high to me for no overclock and ambients of 18c. Also a bit odd that RealTemp is showing a 10.3% load @idle unless an SSD is doing garbage collection or something else? Switch your RealTemp "timer" reading to watts and see if that matches HDMonitor's "watt" (Powers/Package) readings?
> 
> Something is wrong if you can't refit it (Re-mount it?). A lot of guys use plastic shims/washers to take out the play in the backplate mount, bugged the heck out of me on some builds, but it shouldn't effect mounting of the block in most cases unless I'm missing some new info?






To what Bond32 said, my temps right now are looking fine. Even working on lowering my CPU/NB voltage some.

I personally just see the rear fan functioning better as intake to keep all the hot air moving in one general direction.

Playing Dead Space 3 again today, socket temps are no higher than 49C and CPU temps arent breaking 40C. From what I remember seeing with the rear fan as exhaust, this is a 2C-3C cooler. It may be different for others, but I'm happy with what I'm seeing.

Again.. Thanks to everybody's advice and suggestions. Alot of what you guys have said has worked well for me.

Also, just so I'm getting the right terminology down.. When you say VRM where on the motherboard exactly are you referring.. And Northbridge?
When we talked about putting a small fan onto the VRM/Northbridge heatsink..This is the area to the left of the cpu..correct?


----------



## Lifeshield

Getting a H80i on Wednesday to go with a i5 3570k that arrives tomorrow. Is it worth replacing the stock thermal paste with MX2 during installation?

Also any ways to test the H80i for faults without risking damage to my new CPU?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lifeshield*
> 
> Getting a H80i on Wednesday to go with a i5 3570k that arrives tomorrow. Is it worth replacing the stock thermal paste with MX2 during installation?
> 
> Also any ways to test the H80i for faults without risking damage to my new CPU?


The stock thermal paste is said to be really good, replacing it with MX-2 would more than likely not be much better.

And testing for faults as far as leaks, you could give it power without installing it onto the cpu and ruining the stock paste.


----------



## Lifeshield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> And testing for faults as far as leaks, you could give it power without installing it onto the cpu and ruining the stock paste.


This is my first foray into water cooling, so I have no idea what faults I am looking for (other than leaks, obviously, which I will test with paper). What noises should I expect from the pump, etc?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lifeshield*
> 
> This is my first foray into water cooling, so I have no idea what faults I am looking for (other than leaks, obviously, which I will test with paper). What noises should I expect from the pump, etc?


There MAY be a gurgling noise, which would be the water beginning to circulate through the pipes and radiator.
When I installed my H100, besides the gurgling that lasted maybe a minute, I havent heard any noises from the pump itself.

If you do hear any noises, my educated guess would be that there is something not right? These All In One coolers from what I've read, the pumps are supposed to be fairly quiet running, if audible at all.


----------



## Lifeshield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> There MAY be a gurgling noise, which would be the water beginning to circulate through the pipes and radiator.
> When I installed my H100, besides the gurgling that lasted maybe a minute, I havent heard any noises from the pump itself.


Did you just hear this on installation or every time you start up your PC?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lifeshield*
> 
> Did you just hear this on installation or every time you start up your PC?


Just on the initial installation. Only other time I heard the sound was when i had taken my H100 out of the old case and placed it into the new 500R, and I believe it only gurgled a little because I had twisted and flipped it all kinds of ways when moving it around my room. The water may have gotten settled or moved around in the tubes a little.. But a few seconds running and it became non-existent. I hear no other sounds emanating from the pump.


----------



## DUpgrade

Once you get the H80i installed the pump noise settles once any trapped air moves along. The pump is only designed to move water so when an air bubble hits it those cause noise. I haven't had any issues with mine, once it's running for awhile it's pretty much silent. I'm also using SP120 quiets instead of stock fans so that helps too on the noise factor. From what I've read those stock fans are like jet engines at 100% but I've never used them myself.


----------



## cravinmild

H110 arrived. It's smaller than I expected hmm. Just two stock fans in the box but I have zip straps and some UK 3000 i will attempt to mod to it. Lots of pics soon.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Once you get the H80i installed the pump noise settles once any trapped air moves along. The pump is only designed to move water so when an air bubble hits it those cause noise. I haven't had any issues with mine, once it's running for awhile it's pretty much silent. I'm also using SP120 quiets instead of stock fans so that helps too on the noise factor. From what I've read those stock fans are like jet engines at 100% but I've never used them myself.


Yes, they are quite loud at 100%. But they do move a fair amount of air for being stock, although I have not experienced the other fans that these guys talk about, so I dont have much to compare them too.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I have a quick airflow question, even though I should probably know this already.
> In the 500R, I have the H100 installed in the top mount, with air being exhausted out the top. I have turned the rear case fan from exhaust to intake, making all of my fans intake except for the fans on the H100. I know the diagrams I've seen all say to have cold air coming IN from the front, side, and bottom of the case and exhausted OUT the rear and top.
> 
> My question is this.. Is that standard fan configuration still regarded as the best choice? or could this positive pressure setup work any better? OR, is it merely users choice?


I think in your case it depends on your video card. If your video card is exhausting hot air out the back of your case, the case fan above it might be pulling that hot air back into the case again (especially if the rear of the case is close to a wall). However, if you have a video card with a cooler on it that exhausts hot air into the case instead, then it should be OK to use your rear fan as intake.

What you should really do is set up Core Temp (or some other temperature monitoring program) and measure your temps while under maximum load, and then reverse your rear fan and measure them again. You might also want to run Speedfan because it will provide your chipset temps, and perhaps Afterburner to give you the video card temps. You will be able to see exactly what happens in your case when you reverse the rear fan. If you don't mind doing a couple of screen shots I'm sure we would all be interested in your results. Use something like Prime 95 or Intel Burn Test to load your CPU, and for maximum effect you could also run Furmark at the same time to heat up your video card.

I know it's hard to run all this stuff at the same time and get a screen shot. This is where a second monitor comes in really handy.

As others have suggested, you can get small fans you can attach to your chipset heatsinks.

http://www.memoryexpress.com/Category/CaseFans50mm

Some of them even come with 3-pin connectors you can plug into your chassis fan headers on your motherboard. This has the advantage of allowing you to monitor their RPM in BIOS and Windows.


----------



## unclewebb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenie*
> 
> Btw: why is there such a big difference between HWmonitor and RealTemp ?
> (Realtemp seems to be jumping up and down 6degrees atm as well)


Make sure you are using the latest version of HWMonitor.

http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html

Some older versions of HWMonitor had trouble keeping up with the rapidly changing core temperature. The latest version of HWMonitor should report similar temperatures to RealTemp or Core Temp.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I think in your case it depends on your video card. If your video card is exhausting hot air out the back of your case, the case fan above it might be pulling that hot air back into the case again (especially if the rear of the case is close to a wall). However, if you have a video card with a cooler on it that exhausts hot air into the case instead, then it should be OK to use your rear fan as intake.
> 
> What you should really do is set up Core Temp (or some other temperature monitoring program) and measure your temps while under maximum load, and then reverse your rear fan and measure them again. You might also want to run Speedfan because it will provide your chipset temps, and perhaps Afterburner to give you the video card temps. You will be able to see exactly what happens in your case when you reverse the rear fan. If you don't mind doing a couple of screen shots I'm sure we would all be interested in your results. Use something like Prime 95 or Intel Burn Test to load your CPU, and for maximum effect you could also run Furmark at the same time to heat up your video card.
> 
> I know it's hard to run all this stuff at the same time and get a screen shot. This is where a second monitor comes in really handy.
> 
> As others have suggested, you can get small fans you can attach to your chipset heatsinks.
> 
> http://www.memoryexpress.com/Category/CaseFans50mm
> 
> Some of them even come with 3-pin connectors you can plug into your chassis fan headers on your motherboard. This has the advantage of allowing you to monitor their RPM in BIOS and Windows.


Funny that you mention all of this, because HWMonitor shows me all of those readings on one window. And I JUST got done testing the suggestion you made with switching the fan back and forth right before reading this. (what a coincidence







)

I will take a couple screenshots in a minute and post them.. I really didnt see much of a difference in temps, if any really.

Pics Attached---




I should mention, also, that I already have a small fan attached right next to my CPU.


----------



## Baskt_Case

Double post.


----------



## Baskt_Case

I absolutely LOVE my H100i. The only other aftermarket cooler I've ever owned was a CM212+ and this is like going from a Yugo to a Cadillac for me.

Right now I'm running Prime95 @ 4.4GHz @ 37C! I couldn't be happier. I read so many stories of botched mountings so I took my time and did everything methodically and it's working like a champ.

I dont care for the Corsair Link software too much. It causes some issues with booting on my system as it has it's own boot_loader and system services. It also slows the opening of HWMonitor, CPUZ, and a few other programs that seek access to low level sensors and data. But, I found out that you can set everything up the way you want and then uninstall Corsair Link and all the settings will be saved in the pump controller itself. If I ever want to change things, I'll just reinstall Link, no big deal.

As many others have said, I don't notice much temperature difference between the different profiles. I've got mine set up as Push only in the top of my case. And I have a dedicated fan on my northbridge.


----------



## cravinmild

Installed the H110, not a perfect fit but it was simple enough using zip straps and whatnot







I did a few things different than the manual showed but bios shows 22-24c so it would seem it was OK







Desktop is around 34c (nothing really different than my H100) and so far working the images in CS6 I hit max 51c on two cores and the rest stayed under 50c

The unit looks nice, its simple and best part is I don't have to tap it with a butter knife to start (looks at H100 lying in a box) the pump or sounding like an engine missing a cylinder. Top fans are 900rpm and the bottom stock fans are 1050rpm.


----------



## navit

I have a Question. Will the AMD mounting bracket for the H-80I work for the H-80?

My wifes rig has a amd Asus ch4 with a H-50 and I have a spare H-80 but I have seem to have lost most of the mounting hardware like the two clips.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> I have a Question. Will the AMD mounting bracket for the H-80I work for the H-80?
> 
> My wifes rig has a amd Asus ch4 with a H-50 and I have a spare H-80 but I have seem to have lost most of the mounting hardware like the two clips.


As far as I can tell, no. The H80i uses a magnetized bracket that is one piece, while the H80 bracket is 2 pieces that need to be screwed into the water block.


----------



## navit

Bummer


----------



## cravinmild

I've mounted a H80 to a 1155t/AMD mobo using zip straps. Over a year now and temps are still 19-22c @ 3.9 ghz.

I used parts from my original H70 & h100 mount a H110 last night, only used the 110 bracket from everything in the box. Yes, parts can miss matched and ingenuity goes a long ways.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> I've mounted a H80 to a 1155t/AMD mobo using zip straps. Over a year now and temps are still 19-22c @ 3.9 ghz.
> 
> I used parts from my original H70 & h100 mount a H110 last night, only used the 110 bracket from everything in the box. Yes, parts can miss matched and ingenuity goes a long ways.


The "I" models use a completely different bracket. It is magnetized, and sits on top of the water block. The non "I" models have brackets that have to be screwed into the sides of the water block in order to mount.
Making "I" model brackets incompatible with non"I" models.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> I've mounted a H80 to a 1155t/AMD mobo using zip straps. Over a year now and temps are still 19-22c @ 3.9 ghz.
> 
> I used parts from my original H70 & h100 mount a H110 last night, only used the 110 bracket from everything in the box. Yes, parts can miss matched and ingenuity goes a long ways.


Well I have the bracket just not the two pins and screws


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Funny that you mention all of this, because HWMonitor shows me all of those readings on one window. And I JUST got done testing the suggestion you made with switching the fan back and forth right before reading this. (what a coincidence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> I will take a couple screenshots in a minute and post them.. I really didnt see much of a difference in temps, if any really.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Pics Attached---
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should mention, also, that I already have a small fan attached right next to my CPU.


Your temps look nice. I don't think you have any worries.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Bummer


You should be able to get those parts from Corsair though.

http://www.corsair.com/us/parts/cooling-parts/hydro-series-h60-h80-h100-universal-bracket-kit.html

$16 is pretty good.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Your temps look nice. I don't think you have any worries.
> You should be able to get those parts from Corsair though.
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/us/parts/cooling-parts/hydro-series-h60-h80-h100-universal-bracket-kit.html
> 
> $16 is pretty good.


I like my temps. I'm just reaching the end of the list of suggestions to get it passed 4.5Ghz.. Beginning to admit to myself that it is at the limit of its potential without upgrading to a custom water loop.


----------



## cravinmild

So I finished installing the H110 in my Cooler Master HAF 932 and pretty happy with it







I was lucky and other than the H110 bracket nothing else was needed out of the box. I had a H100 on there previous to this and kept all the mounting stuff, pretty much removed the H100 and placed the H110 on and screwed it all up tight. I may have also used some of the H70 mounting stuff to install the H100... its been a while but im sure I needed some of that kit as the H100 packaging was incomplete and I was forced to improvise. This pic shows all I needed to mount this kit. The stock H110 bracket and the screws from the H100 unit from before.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8718361847/
mounting bracket by cravinmild2, on Flickr

Here are a few shots I took of the unit. No unboxing vid or anything just a few quick pics








http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8718372155/
pump surface by cravinmild2, on Flickrhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8718376237/
rad and pump by cravinmild2, on Flickr

I had a bit of time to wait until my unit arrived and during that time it started to bother me that I was only receiving two fans with the H110. I like to do Push/Pull as it worked well on my H100, kept my 2700k under 80c @5.2ghz, it was loud but it worked. Reading these forums and looking at all the fans listed I was starting to get nervous. Someone linked 140mm fans (needed for the H110) that were $45 PER fan AND that was on sale from the reg. price of $79....... PER FAN. I wanted them so bad but not for even close to those prices.
Anyways, long story short, I decided to use some of the Ultra Kaze 3000 120mm that were used on my H100 P/P. By the time the unit showed up I had it all figured out. Here is my log









Now the Rad is longer and wider on the 110 and that means the 120mm fans would sit directly on the fins BUT if I placed them at the top between the rad and the case I could use the 120mm screw holes in the case to hold the rad at the top of the case with no cutting or destroying anything. I don't like cutting or altering the case, its a limited edition lol.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8719498340/
Rad long by cravinmild2, on Flickr

What I ended up doing was using zipstraps. Put a zippy thin enough to slip easily through the fins but with a nub that's too large to pull through the screw hole in the fan. Rubber washer on the other side where the zippy pops through the rad and use the nub from another zippy as a locker nut to stop it from pulling back through the fins. Rubber washer will reduce any damage the nub may cause. Honestly I doubt it would even bend a fin.

Here you see the nub coming through with the rubber washer to protect the fins. The smaller 120mm needs to be mounted first as the 140mm will obviously block the rad on that side. You can see the attached 140mm and the empty space waiting for the second 140mm fan.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8719483830/
zip lock in rad by cravinmild2, on Flickr

Here is a side view of the 120mm sitting on the rad fins. There are some rubber washers between the rad and fans and rubber washers between the fins and locker nubs on the other side. There is not play there, its all solid.



Here is a full on shot. I arranged the 120mm UK 300 so they would line up to the holes at the top of the case. This keeps mounting the rad simple. Also a bonus of this is that there is not modding needed to mount in the CM 932. I cant see the weight of the rad unit itself and the two included fans causing any sagging in the rad from holding its own weight with zipties. Time will tell I guess, if the rad starts to look like a banana then perhaps ill change it up.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8719655616/
full rad and fans by cravinmild2, on Flickr

Some luck with the above shot. After a foiled mounting of the rad I soon realized that I cant used both 120mm fans in their stock screw holes on the case as doing so would have the P/P fans not line up on both sides. Now the fans are directly below the center of each other. For some reason it seemed important at the time. Now only one 120mm is bolted to the case using the proper screw holes and the other fan which did not line up was fastened using zipstraps. Its just as secure as if it were bolted.

All the fans are controlled using Scythe Master Pro 6 fan controller. I lost the use of the built in fan controller from the H100 pump head. The two fans I have in the front drive bay controlled by that fan controller now run full blast but I have a couple of resisters to slow them down in light I have no fan controller anymore for them. The other two channels of the fan controller are used on the H70 I have attached to my GPU AKA "The Mod"

I have not had a chance to really stress the unit yet so I only have the bios recorded temps. The fans were a bit loud at this time and I had to turn them down at the cost of higher temps but by no means were the fans "real loud". The UK3000 were around 1700 rpm and the stock fans were about the same. Side note here I by accident turned the stock fans WAY WAY up and they made a noise ive never heard before. Fan controller said they were 2400rpm (IDK) but only for a second or two... for science








http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8718550575/
temps-bios by cravinmild2, on Flickr
Using HWmonitor I am around 31c idle on the desktop and so maxed out at 51c on two cores editing these pics in CS6. Fans are 900rpm for the UK3000 and 1100 for the stock fans. There is no pump noise at all. No gargleing, No grinding sound.

Here is some pics of the unit mounted in the case
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8719675052/
pump in close up by cravinmild2, on Flickrhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8718545141/
full case top down by cravinmild2, on Flickrhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8719652392/
full case installed by cravinmild2, on Flickr

Can I join your club now


----------



## Lifeshield

Ok so got my H80i installed today on my i5 3570k. Note I haven't installed the Corsair software yet so the two fans are running at default speeds (extremely quietly so I'm guessing they are in some form of whisper mode), they are also running as exhausts and not intakes (the difference is 1-2c from what I've read so I'm not that bothered).

With the stock cooler the 100% load temperature under Prime 95 for the i5 3570k was 80c. With the H80i, at stock speeds, I'm idling between 28-30c. At 100% load under Prime95 the max it's at is 60c. Currently the i5 3570k is clocking at 3610.48mhz.

Are these temperatures reasonable for stock settings?


----------



## Greenie

So I overclocked the my 3570K to 4.5GHz
I won't win any prizes, but after 1h of testing at 22C ambient:



got my 4 noctua P12 1300's as case fans now, as wel as 2 noctua A14 FLX respectively : 3in 1 out & 2 in
GOD the noise improved over the cooler master sickleflow's. (Could even hear them making noise just making them spin with my hands)


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> So I finished installing the H110 in my Cooler Master HAF 932 and pretty happy with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I join your club now


Well I guess so







Seriously, beautiful presentation [+R]. Can't wait to see your benchies comparing the H100 vs your new H110 especially @ a 5.2GHz overclock and your thoughts/conclusions









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lifeshield*
> 
> Ok so got my H80i installed today on my i5 3570k. Note I haven't installed the Corsair software yet so the two fans are running at default speeds (extremely quietly so I'm guessing they are in some form of whisper mode), they are also running as exhausts and not intakes (the difference is 1-2c from what I've read so I'm not that bothered).
> 
> With the stock cooler the 100% load temperature under Prime 95 for the i5 3570k was 80c. With the H80i, at stock speeds, I'm idling between 28-30c. At 100% load under Prime95 the max it's at is 60c. Currently the i5 3570k is clocking at 3610.48mhz.
> 
> Are these temperatures reasonable for stock settings?


Initially looking good IMO. Remember your ambients next time especially w/overclocks ... And we could possibly see the disparity of quality in 3570K cpu batches. As "Unfortunately" for Greenie (below) it's looking like your H80i setup "May" outperform Greenie's H110 below








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenie*
> 
> So I overclocked the my 3570K to 4.5GHz
> I won't win any prizes, but after 1h of testing at 22C ambient:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got my 4 noctua P12 1300's as case fans now, as wel as 2 noctua A14 FLX respectively : 3in 1 out & 2 in
> GOD the noise improved over the cooler master sickleflow's. (Could even hear them making noise just making them spin with my hands)


IMHO those load temps are pretty high for running a 24/7 overclock ... those Ltemps are even on the high side for running IBT, especially for an H110. For reference, at 22c ambients my Sandy Bridge @ 4.6 with extended IBT runs in the low 70c's and P95 (8hr) low to mid 60's.

If you've already tried remounting and other tips previously mentioned? ... Maybe you could try and get your OC/loaded vCore down to the mid 1.2*** range? That would lower your load temps at least 5c maybe more? Additionally if your not doing a lot of video encoding/transcoding and say gaming is your primary load application you still may be OK, depending on the game/application, as I bet you'll find your real world load temps are in the high 60c to low 70c range.

For more reference *[HERE]* is an H110 review with an OC'd 3570K @4.6GHz ...


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Well I guess so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, beautiful presentation [+R]. Can't wait to see your benchies comparing the H100 vs your new H110 especially @ a 5.2GHz overclock and your thoughts/conclusions


Thank you








I will update results when I get them. Still a few things to tweak


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> So I finished installing the H110 in my Cooler Master HAF 932 and pretty happy with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was lucky and other than the H110 bracket nothing else was needed out of the box. I had a H100 on there previous to this and kept all the mounting stuff, pretty much removed the H100 and placed the H110 on and screwed it all up tight. I may have also used some of the H70 mounting stuff to install the H100... its been a while but im sure I needed some of that kit as the H100 packaging was incomplete and I was forced to improvise. This pic shows all I needed to mount this kit. The stock H110 bracket and the screws from the H100 unit from before.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8718361847/
> mounting bracket by cravinmild2, on Flickr
> 
> 
> 
> Here are a few shots I took of the unit. No unboxing vid or anything just a few quick pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8718372155/
> pump surface by cravinmild2, on Flickrhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8718376237/
> rad and pump by cravinmild2, on Flickr
> 
> 
> I had a bit of time to wait until my unit arrived and during that time it started to bother me that I was only receiving two fans with the H110. I like to do Push/Pull as it worked well on my H100, kept my 2700k under 80c @5.2ghz, it was loud but it worked. Reading these forums and looking at all the fans listed I was starting to get nervous. Someone linked 140mm fans (needed for the H110) that were $45 PER fan AND that was on sale from the reg. price of $79....... PER FAN. I wanted them so bad but not for even close to those prices.
> Anyways, long story short, I decided to use some of the Ultra Kaze 3000 120mm that were used on my H100 P/P. By the time the unit showed up I had it all figured out. Here is my log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the Rad is longer and wider on the 110 and that means the 120mm fans would sit directly on the fins BUT if I placed them at the top between the rad and the case I could use the 120mm screw holes in the case to hold the rad at the top of the case with no cutting or destroying anything. I don't like cutting or altering the case, its a limited edition lol.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8719498340/
> Rad long by cravinmild2, on Flickr
> 
> 
> What I ended up doing was using zipstraps. Put a zippy thin enough to slip easily through the fins but with a nub that's too large to pull through the screw hole in the fan. Rubber washer on the other side where the zippy pops through the rad and use the nub from another zippy as a locker nut to stop it from pulling back through the fins. Rubber washer will reduce any damage the nub may cause. Honestly I doubt it would even bend a fin.
> 
> Here you see the nub coming through with the rubber washer to protect the fins. The smaller 120mm needs to be mounted first as the 140mm will obviously block the rad on that side. You can see the attached 140mm and the empty space waiting for the second 140mm fan.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8719483830/
> zip lock in rad by cravinmild2, on Flickr
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a side view of the 120mm sitting on the rad fins. There are some rubber washers between the rad and fans and rubber washers between the fins and locker nubs on the other side. There is not play there, its all solid.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a full on shot. I arranged the 120mm UK 300 so they would line up to the holes at the top of the case. This keeps mounting the rad simple. Also a bonus of this is that there is not modding needed to mount in the CM 932. I cant see the weight of the rad unit itself and the two included fans causing any sagging in the rad from holding its own weight with zipties. Time will tell I guess, if the rad starts to look like a banana then perhaps ill change it up.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8719655616/
> full rad and fans by cravinmild2, on Flickr
> 
> 
> 
> Some luck with the above shot. After a foiled mounting of the rad I soon realized that I cant used both 120mm fans in their stock screw holes on the case as doing so would have the P/P fans not line up on both sides. Now the fans are directly below the center of each other. For some reason it seemed important at the time. Now only one 120mm is bolted to the case using the proper screw holes and the other fan which did not line up was fastened using zipstraps. Its just as secure as if it were bolted.
> 
> All the fans are controlled using Scythe Master Pro 6 fan controller. I lost the use of the built in fan controller from the H100 pump head. The two fans I have in the front drive bay controlled by that fan controller now run full blast but I have a couple of resisters to slow them down in light I have no fan controller anymore for them. The other two channels of the fan controller are used on the H70 I have attached to my GPU AKA "The Mod"
> 
> I have not had a chance to really stress the unit yet so I only have the bios recorded temps. The fans were a bit loud at this time and I had to turn them down at the cost of higher temps but by no means were the fans "real loud". The UK3000 were around 1700 rpm and the stock fans were about the same. Side note here I by accident turned the stock fans WAY WAY up and they made a noise ive never heard before. Fan controller said they were 2400rpm (IDK) but only for a second or two... for science
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8718550575/
> temps-bios by cravinmild2, on Flickr
> 
> 
> Using HWmonitor I am around 31c idle on the desktop and so maxed out at 51c on two cores editing these pics in CS6. Fans are 900rpm for the UK3000 and 1100 for the stock fans. There is no pump noise at all. No gargleing, No grinding sound.
> 
> Here is some pics of the unit mounted in the case
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8719675052/
> pump in close up by cravinmild2, on Flickrhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8718545141/
> full case top down by cravinmild2, on Flickrhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8719652392/
> full case installed by cravinmild2, on Flickr
> 
> 
> Can I join your club now


For Western Canada:

http://www.memoryexpress.com/Category/CaseFans140mm

memoryexpress
Vancouver Richmond
4975 NO. 3 RD Richmond, BC V6X 2C3 Phone: (604) 304-0200

They also have an "on-line" store, so you can order directly off their website.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lifeshield*
> 
> Ok so got my H80i installed today on my i5 3570k. Note I haven't installed the Corsair software yet so the two fans are running at default speeds (extremely quietly so I'm guessing they are in some form of whisper mode), they are also running as exhausts and not intakes (the difference is 1-2c from what I've read so I'm not that bothered).
> 
> With the stock cooler the 100% load temperature under Prime 95 for the i5 3570k was 80c. With the H80i, at stock speeds, I'm idling between 28-30c. At 100% load under Prime95 the max it's at is 60c. Currently the i5 3570k is clocking at 3610.48mhz.
> 
> Are these temperatures reasonable for stock settings?


Yeah, 20c drop in temp going from stock to closed loop cooler is pretty ballpark.


----------



## cravinmild

@Mergatroid

Thanks for the link







Great stuff on that site. I think ill run with this setup for awhile or until I get bored and needs to spend some dough









** update ***

Ive never ran Prim95 but I think my temps were ok.



are these good for a stock 2700k. I used the setting which said it heats things up







It was only for about a half hour, I hope this is enough time to give a indicator


----------



## GuestVeea

Hello everyone. I have a corsair H50 on my 1155 socket. I am looking to get custom tubing and a reservoir for it. What is the largest tubing size I can get for it? Where would you recommend getting tubing and a reservoir?


----------



## GuestVeea




----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GuestVeea*
> 
> Hello everyone. I have a corsair H50 on my 1155 socket. I am looking to get custom tubing and a reservoir for it. What is the largest tubing size I can get for it? Where would you recommend getting tubing and a reservoir?


What exactly are you trying to accomplish over what you currently have? The pump on the CLC isn't strong enough to handle a res in addition to the rad. I would highly advise you don't take it apart. If you're just unhappy with the looks or want it to stand out a little more consider this guy's very simple tubing mod to just cover the corrugated tubing with a solid color:


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenie*
> 
> So I overclocked the my 3570K to 4.5GHz
> I won't win any prizes, but after 1h of testing at 22C ambient:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got my 4 noctua P12 1300's as case fans now, as wel as 2 noctua A14 FLX respectively : 3in 1 out & 2 in
> GOD the noise improved over the cooler master sickleflow's. (Could even hear them making noise just making them spin with my hands)


I agree with @TomcatV, your temps pretty high. My SB-E @4.5GHz & 4.6GHz at 31C - 32C ambient with IBT (Very High preset) still a couple degrees lower than yours. IVY run hotter but not by that much, especially in 22C ambient.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> @Mergatroid
> 
> Thanks for the link
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great stuff on that site. I think ill run with this setup for awhile or until I get bored and needs to spend some dough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ** update ***
> 
> Ive never ran Prim95 but I think my temps were ok.
> 
> 
> 
> are these good for a stock 2700k. I used the setting which said it heats things up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was only for about a half hour, I hope this is enough time to give a indicator


I think at least one hour. BTW, what is your ambient temperature?


----------



## Lifeshield

Currently overclocked at 4.2ghz on my i5 3570k using just the XMP 1600mhz profile and boosting the turbo multiplier to x42. Ambient temperature is 21c, 100% load temperature is 63c.


----------



## khaosstrife

I've been running the H100 series for about 6 months now and I have been loving it. However last night my system has been getting really hot, like 65c hot core temp. I'll post some pics later when I get home of my current configuration but I suspect it is because I am not getting enough cold air through the radiator. I am currently running an AMD FX-8150 @ 4.16 GHz per core.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> I've been running the H100 series for about 6 months now and I have been loving it. However last night my system has been getting really hot, like 65c hot core temp. I'll post some pics later when I get home of my current configuration but I suspect it is because I am not getting enough cold air through the radiator. I am currently running an AMD FX-8150 @ 4.16 GHz per core.


Is this during idle? gaming, or while stress testing?


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Is this during idle? gaming, or while stress testing?


Idleing is around 50C now (was around 30c before) and 40% load (gaming) is bringing it up around 65c. At 100% load for 10 mins would only bring it up to around 55c. I suspect like I said I am not getting enough cold air across the radiator. It is starting to get hot outside where I am at but even so it should not be affecting it this much. The only other thing I can think of is that my interal case temp has gone up drastically so I am pulling it apart tonight ot make sure none if my intake vents are clogged. I just moved into a new apartment with brand new carpets (to which I was finally able to clean yesterday) and there was so much fuzz in the carpet. Now that I think about it there is a very good chance something got sucked up inside somwhere and is causing a blockage.


----------



## Zillerella

Quote:


> Idleing is around 50C now (was around 30c before) and 40% load (gaming) is bringing it up around 65c. At 100% load for 10 mins would only bring it up to around 55c. I suspect like I said I am not getting enough cold air across the radiator. It is starting to get hot outside where I am at but even so it should not be affecting it this much. The only other thing I can think of is that my interal case temp has gone up drastically so I am pulling it apart tonight ot make sure none if my intake vents are clogged. I just moved into a new apartment with brand new carpets (to which I was finally able to clean yesterday) and there was so much fuzz in the carpet. Now that I think about it there is a very good chance something got sucked up inside somwhere and is causing a blockage.


Maybe it can be a dust issue or just an intake fan that stopped work? But sure carpets are a pc killer....


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> Maybe it can be a dust issue or just an intake fan that stopped work? But sure carpets are a pc killer....


I know that buddy, you should have seen all the crap I sucked up out of the carpet. There was enough fuzz to choke an elephant.


----------



## Zillerella

Quote:


> I know that buddy, you should have seen all the crap I sucked up out of the carpet. There was enough fuzz to choke an elephant.


Eww thats not good








But you can fast look if a fan stopped spin and see if that is the problem


----------



## Destrto

With a temp rise that high, It makes me think either thermal paste needs readjusted, a fan broke, like Zillerella suggests, or possibly, in a worst case scenario a problem has occurred with your pump.


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> With a temp rise that high, It makes me think either thermal paste needs readjusted, a fan broke, like Zillerella suggests, or possibly, in a worst case scenario a problem has occurred with your pump.


Well that would totally suck. I don't think the pump broke (becuase that was one of the first things I checked last night and it appeared to be working correctly), but it's always a possibility. When I get in tonight I am go going be ripping everything apart anyways so I will be able to check thoroughly. I'll post my findings. I am going to slap two more fans on my radiator though (opposite side) to help pull/push more air though. (They will be going in the same direction). I might even see about changing the airflow within my case so that it might allow better airflow over the mainboard.


----------



## khaosstrife

As for the thermal paste, I doubt it's that. Arctic Silver dosen't normally shift around like that in my experience with it. But always worth checking out.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> Well that would totally suck. I don't think the pump broke (becuase that was one of the first things I checked last night and it appeared to be working correctly), but it's always a possibility. When I get in tonight I am go going be ripping everything apart anyways so I will be able to check thoroughly. I'll post my findings. I am going to slap two more fans on my radiator though (opposite side) to help pull/push more air though. (They will be going in the same direction). I might even see about changing the airflow within my case so that it might allow better airflow over the mainboard.


With a sudden change in temps, Unless something drastic changed with your setup, I dont personally believe airflow is the issue. But it's worth a shot still. Keep us updated as to what you find.


----------



## Zillerella

Let us know what you will find out later and see if we can help with something


----------



## khaosstrife

Will do guys. Thanks for the directions I should look in. I will post an update tonight or tomorrow. Depends on how long it takes me to find and fix the issue.


----------



## TomcatV

*When reporting testing results, the more information you provide ...
The more professional and "detailed" the responses will be







*

Here are the basics ... and screenshots really help for quick/accurate diagnostics









1) CPU (model / @idle or load / stock or [email protected] ***GHz / AND CPU-Z vCore)
1a) Fill in your system specs (see my signature below







)
2) Stress Program (usually P95 [v27.9] Blend 30-60min)(IBT can also be useful)
2a) Temp monitoring program ... Real Temp / Core Temp / HWMonitor etc
3) Ambient temperature (usually room temp if your case isn't crammed into a cabinet)
4) Radiator Setup (open bench/ Push or Pull / Push/Pull / Case Intake or Exhaust)
5) Fans model (Stock or aftermarket) there rpm's and/or AIO setting (low/med/high)

Prime95 w/AVX latest version 27.9 [HERE]
CPU-Z v1.65 [HERE]
Real Temp v3.70 [HERE]
HWMonitor v1.23 [B [HERE][/B]
*Core Temp v1.0 RC5* *[HERE]*
*IBT v2.54* *[HERE]*

Interesting thread *[HERE]*on stress monitoring. I don't necessarily agree with everything he says, but it's a very good discussion on stress programs! The main points I got out of it is Aida64 will heat your processor higher than P95 with Less Voltage .... hmmm. And it is very important to run the latest version of P95 [v27.9] as the instruction sets have changed significantly to where the load temps are getting very close to IBT/Aida64. The chart below, for those of you that don't know or ask where the heck is IBT in the chart, LinX and IBT are essentially the same program











This is why "screenshots" are so helpful ...
It's easier to confirm 100% Load / core temp vs CPU temp / vCore / Watts load etc.



Yes IBT is helpful if you understand the risks TDP95w IBT is pulling 126w











More info on P95 and my quick favorite stability test, 1hr of custom setting with FFT set to 1344 and 1792 after an initial 20min Blend test ... See *HERE* /and *HERE*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> @Mergatroid
> 
> Thanks for the link
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great stuff on that site. I think ill run with this setup for awhile or until I get bored and needs to spend some dough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ** update ***
> 
> Ive never ran Prim95 but I think my temps were ok.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> are these good for a stock 2700k. I used the setting which said it heats things up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was only for about a half hour, I hope this is enough time to give a indicator


Those temps are good if your ambients are the std 20c-22c? Overclocking back in the day was really an art form to setup and test for stability, but with todays unlocked multi's and far superior CPU architecture testing for stability with P95 has become much simpler and reliable. For "basic" cooling testing a 30-60min run of P95[v27.9]/Torture Test on the "Blend" setting is pretty much the Standard most of us use today ... then there is IBT but don't get me started







...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lifeshield*
> 
> Currently overclocked at 4.2ghz on my i5 3570k using just the XMP 1600mhz profile and boosting the turbo multiplier to x42. Ambient temperature is 21c, 100% load temperature is 63c.


Here is a good example of the above, NOT trying to be a dick







, but for me without screenshots, it would be nice to know the vCore? / confirm "Load" program? / confirm load temp as core temperatures can vary as much as 10c between cores ie. 73-63-65-65c / measuring software? / and confirm case setup









But after all that AND assuming my "assumptions"







are right your looking good ... time to take her up to 4.4-4.6 range









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> Idleing is around 50C now (was around 30c before) and 40% load (gaming) is bringing it up around 65c. At 100% load for 10 mins would only bring it up to around 55c. I suspect like I said I am not getting enough cold air across the radiator. It is starting to get hot outside where I am at but even so it should not be affecting it this much. The only other thing I can think of is that my interal case temp has gone up drastically so I am pulling it apart tonight ot make sure none if my intake vents are clogged. I just moved into a new apartment with brand new carpets (to which I was finally able to clean yesterday) and there was so much fuzz in the carpet. Now that I think about it there is a very good chance something got sucked up inside somwhere and is causing a blockage.


Unfortunately that big of a change 15c - 20c tells me it's not a cleaning problem [EDIT: agree w/Destrto!] although it sounds like that will also help . I have gained 4c-6c cleaning the dirtiest of rads with the fans working properly. I think one or more of your fans aren't spinning (totally clogged or broken?) ...

OR quite possibly during your move, your friend dropped your pride n joy and didn't have the heart to tell you?, and compromised your cooling block mount? try remount? Also check the pump RPM in the Bios, should be around 2200rpm ... if not your pump may be failing?


----------



## khaosstrife

TomcatV,

Pump is within normal range in the BIOS, it is possible that it got jostled around in the move but that would had had to happen on the road during the bumpy ride because it rode with me, next to me, strapped in







(Yes excessive but I take this seriously) I am going to be doing a tear down and inspection tonight when I get in anyways so I will be able to tell what's going on. I do know that there is some serious heat being thrown out of the exhaust.


----------



## Lifeshield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> it would be nice to know the vCore? / confirm "Load" program? / confirm load temp as core temperatures can vary as much as 10c between cores ie. 73-63-65-65c / measuring software? / and confirm case setup


I didn't change the vCore, I'm still trying to find the sweet spot on my multiplier (I've only had the CPU and H80i for a day, lol) and find my way around the BIOS (bit different from my old AMD setup). Will probably mess around with voltages more as and when I learn more about overclocking with them for the i5 3570k. It's safe to assume they could probably be lower, meaning cooler temperatures are a possibility.

Ambient room temperature is 21c via a thermometer that is stuck near my PC (but away from any case vents so to not be influenced by exhausted air).

CPU idles at 1.6ghz and loads at 4.2ghz (x42 Turbo Multiplier) with RAM set to 1600mhz (via XMP profile).

Via CPU-Z Core Voltage runs at 1.024-1.072 idle & 1.240-1.248 at full load, and via Core Temp VID is at 1.2209 idle & 1.3010v at full load.

Load program used was Prime95, and was run for a full pass (10 hours).

Load temp generally sat around 63c as per Corsair Link. Maximum per core temperature was 67c via Core Temp but on average they sat between 60-64c.

Measuring software is CPU-Z, Core Temp, Corsair Link and Prime95 for stress testing. Motherboard is updated to latest BIOS.

Case is an Antec 900 with only one fan mounted in the front bays (I blew one of them up), at the bottom. The H80i is set to exhaust in push/pull on my rear exhaust vent just below the 200m fan. The PSU is mounted facing downward (I cut a hole in the bottom of the Antec 900 for the PSU to intake air). Then I have a Twin Frozr III (which has dual mounted fans for cooling). Cables all tidied away the best that the case will manage. I have 2 x 30mm fans mounted on the Asus Sabertooth.

At full load, on stock settings and stock Intel cooler, my CPU's temp was 80c @ 3.6ghz. So @ +600Mhz at 100% load I am "roughly" around 16c cooler than stock.

Hope that's enough information for you.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lifeshield*
> 
> I didn't change the vCore, I'm still trying to find the sweet spot on my multiplier (I've only had the CPU and H80i for a day, lol) and find my way around the BIOS (bit different from my old AMD setup). Will probably mess around with voltages more as and when I learn more about overclocking with them for the i5 3570k.


Don't know if you have already been through it, but this is the thread that make ocing Ivy on an Asus mobo easy:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards


----------



## Lifeshield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Don't know if you have already been through it, but this is the thread that make ocing Ivy on an Asus mobo easy:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards


I already have it favourited for future reference, but thanks for the recommendation anyway.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> @Mergatroid
> 
> Thanks for the link
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great stuff on that site. I think ill run with this setup for awhile or until I get bored and needs to spend some dough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ** update ***
> 
> Ive never ran Prim95 but I think my temps were ok.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> are these good for a stock 2700k. I used the setting which said it heats things up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was only for about a half hour, I hope this is enough time to give a indicator


I'm in Winnipeg and we have a M.E. in town. I shop for my computer parts almost exclusively at their store. They will order anything they don't have and have a large selection in-stock. They also have great return policies, and good service.

Temps in the low 50s for an i7 at stock clocks seem pretty good to me, but I'm using an i5 2500K so someone else will have to step in and give you an idea how your temps are.


----------



## khaosstrife

Ok guys here is an update. First off this was a big headache looking for the issue but it was easier than I expected. Not sure if you know how the ASUS Formula-V boards are set up but the RAM banks are right to the right of the CPU. The way I had the H100 set the in and out pipes were sitting right on top of my RAM which, seemed to not be an issue until recently when I have been pushing my system and that it is getting hotter around here. Also I attached two more fans to my radiator. At about >5% load I am around 38/39C. Mobo is around 33C. Far better than what I was getting last night. I also did some serious cable management so we shall see what happens. My RAM is OCed to 1833 (stock 1333 but 1600 with XMP1) so it runs a little hotter under load. Also my CPU is running at 4.16GHz per core so yeah. I might knock her down to 4GHz or 3.9GHz if she heats back up. Pump is running at 2163 RPMs as of right now.

*Before*

*After*


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> Ok guys here is an update. First off this was a big headache looking for the issue but it was easier than I expected. Not sure if you know how the ASUS Formula-V boards are set up but the RAM banks are right to the right of the CPU. The way I had the H100 set the in and out pipes were sitting right on top of my RAM which, seemed to not be an issue until recently when I have been pushing my system and that it is getting hotter around here. Also I attached two more fans to my radiator. At about >5% load I am around 38/39C. Mobo is around 33C. Far better than what I was getting last night. I also did some serious cable management so we shall see what happens. My RAM is OCed to 1833 (stock 1333 but 1600 with XMP1) so it runs a little hotter under load. Also my CPU is running at 4.16GHz per core so yeah. I might knock her down to 4GHz or 3.9GHz if she heats back up. Pump is running at 2163 RPMs as of right now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *Before*
> 
> *After*


So were the pipes getting moved somehow? You dont state what exactly the issue was causing your temps to be so much higher.


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> So were the pipes getting moved somehow? You dont state what exactly the issue was causing your temps to be so much higher.


If you look in the before photo to the right you will see the in/out pipes for the cooling system are sitting right on top of the RAM. They were getting a little too warm and I suspect they were causing an issue by heating what was suppose to be cool liquid going to the CPU. Instead it was hot going over hot. Also, I have reversed all of the cooling fans for the rad so it is now pulling air into the case and blowing it out though the main exhaust fan in the back. Before it was pushing air out of the case through the rad. Now if you look in the after photo the pipes are no longer touching but are actually closer to the exhaust fan instead now. I was running my ram at 1600 before and now I am running it at 1866. I didn't think that would have been the cause of heating up my CPU until I took a closer look. Now I am at a solid 38c with a 5% load. I would like it cooler but better than what it was. One other thing I might add, my rad looked like this:


----------



## justanoldman

lol
You need one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368152460&sr=8-1&keywords=data+vac


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> lol
> You need one of these:
> http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368152460&sr=8-1&keywords=data+vac


-laughs-

No worries buddy. I got it covered the wife made me buy one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Dyson-DC39-Multi-floor-canister/dp/B0076ZGC04/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1368152749&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=dyson+dc39

Needless to say it earned it's keep today.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> If you look in the before photo to the right you will see the in/out pipes for the cooling system are sitting right on top of the RAM. They were getting a little too warm and I suspect they were causing an issue by heating what was suppose to be cool liquid going to the CPU. Instead it was hot going over hot. Also, I have reversed all of the cooling fans for the rad so it is now pulling air into the case and blowing it out though the main exhaust fan in the back. Before it was pushing air out of the case through the rad. Now if you look in the after photo the pipes are no longer touching but are actually closer to the exhaust fan instead now. I was running my ram at 1600 before and now I am running it at 1866. I didn't think that would have been the cause of heating up my CPU until I took a closer look. Now I am at a solid 38c with a 5% load. I would like it cooler but better than what it was. One other thing I might add, my rad looked like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ahh i see. Well, glad the temps are back down to a reasonable level.


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Ahh i see. Well, glad the temps are back down to a reasonable level.


Yeah, still heats up faster than I would like though. I might need to look into something else that can chill my rig a bit more. I'd hate to have to back down my speeds a bit


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> Yeah, still heats up faster than I would like though. I might need to look into something else that can chill my rig a bit more. I'd hate to have to back down my speeds a bit


What are your voltages again? vcore is at what?


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> What are your voltages again? vcore is at what?


Vcore - 1.35 V
+3.3V - 3.384 V
+5V - 5.035 V
+12V - 11.840 V
+VDDA - 2.484 V
CPU/NB - 1.184 V
DRAM - 1.501 V
HT - 1.204 V
NB - 1.105 V
SB - 1.111 V
CPU - 39.0C
MB - 31.0C


----------



## DUpgrade

It's always best to take your fans off and clean the rad out every month. Doesn't mean having to take the whole block off either just a good vacuum should do it. I've debated reversing the direction of my rad just to see if having the tubes up top would offer any difference in temps.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> Vcore - 1.35 V
> +3.3V - 3.384 V
> +5V - 5.035 V
> +12V - 11.840 V
> +VDDA - 2.484 V
> CPU/NB - 1.184 V
> DRAM - 1.501 V
> HT - 1.204 V
> NB - 1.105 V
> SB - 1.111 V
> CPU - 39.0C
> MB - 31.0C


Just wanted to check Vcore. it seems to be well within range of normal temps. When you say your temps rise faster than you would like.. what are they reaching during a stress run?


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Just wanted to check Vcore. it seems to be well within range of normal temps. When you say your temps rise faster than you would like.. what are they reaching during a stress run?


Tell me which one you want me to run and I will make it happen and get back to you.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> Tell me which one you want me to run and I will make it happen and get back to you.


With HWMonitor or HWInfo as your sensor readings.. Run IBT on Standard for 5 runs. Report back with your highest temps in Package and CPU, if you would, please.


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> With HWMonitor or HWInfo as your sensor readings.. Run IBT on Standard for 5 runs. Report back with your highest temps in Package and CPU, if you would, please.


Well had A BSOD in the first 45 seconds (one pass finished) with a core temp max of 48c, after rebooting my system locked up aster 10 seconds. upon research IBT dose not play well with the AMD FX series. Going to bed for now. I'll bench more when i get back from work.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> Well had A BSOD in the first 45 seconds (one pass finished) with a core temp max of 48c, after rebooting my system locked up aster 10 seconds. upon research IBT dose not play well with the AMD FX series. Going to bed for now. I'll bench more when i get back from work.


Really? Works fine on my FX series.. If its crashing and freezing on a standard test, try upping your Vcore a little.


----------



## Zillerella

Can you remove the HHD rack? If so remove it for better airflow from the front. Looks like to me the air don't pass throught them







Just what I think. I don't know anything about overclocking so I just come with the more simple inputs


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> Can you remove the HHD rack? If so remove it for better airflow from the front. Looks like to me the air don't pass throught them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just what I think. I don't know anything about overclocking so I just come with the more simple inputs


Yes, the HDD racks are both removable via thumbscrews. There are 4 underneath, and I believe 2 in the back motherboard tray.


----------



## Zillerella

Quote:


> Yes, the HDD racks are both removable via thumbscrews. There are 4 underneath, and I believe 2 in the back motherboard tray.


But looks like he got many HHD's so he cant remove it


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> But looks like he got many HHD's so he cant remove it


Well, more than 3, than yea, he would have to keep one or both in there. But leaving them in, he would have another mount for a fan.


----------



## Zillerella

Quote:


> Well, more than 3, than yea, he would have to keep one or both in there. But leaving them in, he would have another mount for a fan.


So if he got a spare fan he should mount it on the other side of the Rack?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> So if he got a spare fan he should mount it on the other side of the Rack?


Definitely. That's what the extra fan mounts are there for, anyway. Best bet, would be to put the fan in the top HDD cage so its directed at the GPUs.


----------



## Zillerella

Quote:


> Definitely. That's what the extra fan mounts are there for, anyway. Best bet, would be to put the fan in the top HDD cage so its directed at the GPUs.


Agree. I hope he will read this. And he should get a fan with high static pressure.


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Really? Works fine on my FX series.. If its crashing and freezing on a standard test, try upping your Vcore a little.


What would you suggest I up my VCore voltage to?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> Can you remove the HHD rack? If so remove it for better airflow from the front. Looks like to me the air don't pass throught them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just what I think. I don't know anything about overclocking so I just come with the more simple inputs


Removing the HDD drive bays are going to be hard. I am running 5 drives in one bay (Intel 520 120GB and 4 Segate Barracudas 2TB in RAID 5) and I have the corsair link system showing up next week which is going into the open drive bays to the left of the hard drives.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Well, more than 3, than yea, he would have to keep one or both in there. But leaving them in, he would have another mount for a fan.


I can actually shove some 80mm fans in there. There is room. I would just have to get a few filters first becuase I don't want to be sucking carpet into my case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Definitely. That's what the extra fan mounts are there for, anyway. Best bet, would be to put the fan in the top HDD cage so its directed at the GPUs.


There is actually suffcent airflow going through my case now. All my fans are rated for 80cfc or more and are all running 2500rpms or higher.
Also on the door, there are 3 more fans (1 220mm and 2 120mm fans) that help cool the video card and keep my drives nice and cool. My rear exhaust is actually much cooler now than it was.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> Agree. I hope he will read this. And he should get a fan with high static pressure.


I already do buddy


----------



## Zillerella

Quote:


> I already do buddy


Me like


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> What would you suggest I up my VCore voltage to?
> Removing the HDD drive bays are going to be hard. I am running 5 drives in one bay (Intel 520 120GB and 4 Segate Barracudas 2TB in RAID 5) and I have the corsair link system showing up next week which is going into the open drive bays to the left of the hard drives.
> I can actually shove some 80mm fans in there. There is room. I would just have to get a few filters first becuase I don't want to be sucking carpet into my case.
> There is actually suffcent airflow going through my case now. All my fans are rated for 80cfc or more and are all running 2500rpms or higher.
> Also on the door, there are 3 more fans (1 220mm and 2 120mm fans) that help cool the video card and keep my drives nice and cool. My rear exhaust is actually much cooler now than it was.
> I already do buddy


That is dependent on what your particular Chip wants. You'll just have to raise it a notch at a time until you are stable. It's really just trial and error.

Show some pictures if you can of where the 80mm fans would fit? In the 500R it has mount holes drilled for 120mm's on each of the HDD cages. So i cant immediately picture in my mind where 80's would fit.

Also how do you have the 220 as well as 120s on the door panel?


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> That is dependent on what your particular Chip wants. You'll just have to raise it a notch at a time until you are stable. It's really just trial and error.
> 
> Show some pictures if you can of where the 80mm fans would fit? In the 500R it has mount holes drilled for 120mm's on each of the HDD cages. So i cant immediately picture in my mind where 80's would fit.
> 
> Also how do you have the 220 as well as 120s on the door panel?


Side Profile



Look to the bottom of the HDD bays. A 80mm would fit nicely there with an improvised mount since they are designed for 120mm with the bays removed.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Side Profile
> 
> 
> 
> Look to the bottom of the HDD bays. A 80mm would fit nicely there with an improvised mount since they are designed for 120mm with the bays removed.


Ohh i see. I thought you were using the 500R for some reason.. Yea that seems to be enough airflow there. With all of those as intake, having the exhaust up top should do well to keep all that hot air moving up and out.


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Ohh i see. I thought you were using the 500R for some reason.. Yea that seems to be enough airflow there. With all of those as intake, having the exhaust up top should do well to keep all that hot air moving up and out.


Def running alot cooler now. I guess we just have to work on some stablility. WHen I get home I am going ot up the Vcore a bit. I was researching and I guess for that CPU I am useing they like to be around 1.5 when you start getting around 4ghz. You stated that you were useing a FX CPU as well, mind if I ask what you are useing and how you are running? Just looking for a baseline here so I don't cook my rig again. Never fun when you do that.


----------



## BradleyW

Should I keep my H100i or buy a Cooler Master Eisberg Prestige 240L?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> Def running alot cooler now. I guess we just have to work on some stablility. WHen I get home I am going ot up the Vcore a bit. I was researching and I guess for that CPU I am useing they like to be around 1.5 when you start getting around 4ghz. You stated that you were useing a FX CPU as well, mind if I ask what you are useing and how you are running? Just looking for a baseline here so I don't cook my rig again. Never fun when you do that.


Each CPU regardless of what series it is, will want a different voltage to run at different speeds. SO, don't immediately assume you have to ramp up your Vcore to 1.5 right away just becuase that's what other people have done. Take it slow and see what you get.
I was able to hit 3.9Ghz from a stock 3.1Ghz with stock voltages. I'm running an FX-8120 on an H100 with stock fans.
I'm currently at 4.5Ghz at 1.368V.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Should I keep my H100i or buy a Cooler Master Eisberg Prestige 240L?


Personally, I would say try the Eisberg out.. I'm really liking those, as the pumps are supposed to be great. And they have the look of a custom loop with the fittings on the pump.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Personally, I would say try the Eisberg out.. I'm really liking those, as the pumps are supposed to be great. And they have the look of a custom loop with the fittings on the pump.


I'm just finding it very hard to find reviews on the 240L.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I'm just finding it very hard to find reviews on the 240L.


You can't always trust reviews anyway.. Best way to see how it works, find out for yourself. The general reaction might not be anything like what you experience with it. It's a brand new product also


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Each CPU regardless of what series it is, will want a different voltage to run at different speeds. SO, don't immediately assume you have to ramp up your Vcore to 1.5 right away just becuase that's what other people have done. Take it slow and see what you get.
> I was able to hit 3.9Ghz from a stock 3.1Ghz with stock voltages. I'm running an FX-8120 on an H100 with stock fans.
> I'm currently at 4.5Ghz at 1.368V.


I wasn't going to go right for 1.5v off the bat. Good way to go pop and be out a CPU and even a board. I was going to go 0.05v incriments until I found the sweet spot. I am still doing that with my RAM. I have my Corsair Vengance 1600 stuff running at 1833 on 1.5v stable at CAS10. I got it running at 2133 but at 1.65v and the timeings were way off so constant BSODs there, Still working that out as well.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> I wasn't going to go right for 1.5v off the bat. Good way to go pop and be out a CPU and even a board. I was going to go 0.05v incriments until I found the sweet spot. I am still doing that with my RAM. I have my Corsair Vengance 1600 stuff running at 1833 on 1.5v stable at CAS10. I got it running at 2133 but at 1.65v and the timeings were way off so constant BSODs there, Still working that out as well.


that sounds like a good way to start. Just go up one notch each time and test. Your board should let you increase in increments of .0125 I believe. you might want to turn Turbo mode off too. As that can interfere with testing


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> that sounds like a good way to start. Just go up one notch each time and test. Your board should let you increase in increments of .0125 I believe. you might want to turn Turbo mode off too. As that can interfere with testing


I'll give it a shot. Over all though, is turbo really worth the hassel?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> I'll give it a shot. Over all though, is turbo really worth the hassel?


Not in my opinion. Especially when overclocking.


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Not in my opinion. Especially when overclocking.


Now that I think about it... that could be causing some instability when running IBT. That and not havving enough juice applied to the VCore. What happened to the good old days of putting Dry Ice in a can on your CPU, just turning up the voltage, and hope that your CPU doesn't explode?









Did that once btw. A buddy and I OCed a old Pentuim 166MHz to around 1500MHz with just the passive heat sink. Lets just say one became two and a new hole was made in the mobo.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> Now that I think about it... that could be causing some instability when running IBT. That and not havving enough juice applied to the VCore. What happened to the good old days of putting Dry Ice in a can on your CPU, just turning up the voltage, and hope that your CPU doesn't explode?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did that once btw. A buddy and I OCed a old Pentuim 166MHz to around 1500MHz with just the passive heat sink. Lets just say one became two and a new hole was made in the mobo.


haha yea that is still possible with todays machines.. I just wouldnt recommend setting a 2000 dollar rig ablaze lol


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> haha yea that is still possible with todays machines.. I just wouldnt recommend setting a 2000 dollar rig ablaze lol


Oh trust me, that is the last thing I want to do before the weekend. I might actually get PTSD from that...

This is fake (due to having fireworks shoved under the harddrive) but just the same for effect.




.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> Well had A BSOD in the first 45 seconds (one pass finished) with a core temp max of 48c, after rebooting my system locked up aster 10 seconds. upon research IBT dose not play well with the AMD FX series. Going to bed for now. I'll bench more when i get back from work.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> I wasn't going to go right for 1.5v off the bat. Good way to go pop and be out a CPU and even a board. I was going to go 0.05v incriments until I found the sweet spot. I am still doing that with my RAM. I have my Corsair Vengance 1600 stuff running at 1833 on 1.5v stable at CAS10. I got it running at 2133 but at 1.65v and the timeings were way off so constant BSODs there, Still working that out as well.
Click to expand...

Your in good hands with Destrto and he is definitely more familiar with the nuances of the AMD platform than I ... BUT I did want to throw in a comment or two. Back your Ram down to 1600 or stock? 1333 clocks, until you get your OC stability issue figured out. I can almost guarantee it's your OC'd ram that is causing your BSOD's in stress testing. The AMD platform is REAL finicky with ram OC's over 1600, trust me been through it many times over at the GSkill Forums









Edit: Funny video ahhh the good ol days ...
AND that was one of the dirtier rads I've seen, not the worst but close Yikes ...










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> So if he got a spare fan he should mount it on the other side of the Rack?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> Agree. I hope he will read this. And he should get a fan with high static pressure.
Click to expand...

Extra fans for case circulation "in the proper config" is always a good idea, but the extra intake fan (behind HDD rack) may not be so beneficial now that Khaosstrife has switched his H100 from exhaust to Intake config ... AND actually higher CFM fans are better for case circulation over a specialized Static Pressure fan for moving more air with "usually" less noise









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Should I keep my H100i or buy a Cooler Master Eisberg Prestige 240L?


Returned PM ... bummer the H220 isn't available there yet ...But if you get itchy and can't wait for an H220 it will be fun to see your Eisberg results









The pump seems to produce more noticeable noise than the fans. Check out this review *HERE* Hilbert is really good AND honest with his reviews.

I recently had a friend with ample cash for a build and we went with the Swiftech H220 over the H110/H100i/Eisberg240 ... he couldn't be happier ... AND there is a growing enthusiastic, informative thread for the H220 *HERE*

Eisberg 240 / $180 / 2yr warranty








Swittech H220 / $140 / 1yr warranty








H110 / $130 / 2yr warranty








H100i / $105 / 5year warranty


----------



## khaosstrife

I tried with backing down to 1600, my system locked up after 45 seconds. At least at 1866 it ran one whole cycle before BSODing.
However, while talking with Destrto and by him pointing me in different directions I think I have something figured out and where to continue on this now that I have corrected my cooling issue.

The fans I have are whisper quiet and most times I don't even know if they are running becuase they are so quiet but they push more air than my AC does. Over 80 cfm for each fan. So I have 9 fans pushing in the right direction now, all between 2500-3000 RPMs and all 80cfm or more airflow. While playing Tomb Raider last night (on ultra) my CPU core temp didn't go any higher than 40c and my mobo was a soild 31c. Before I was at 65c for the CPU and 50c for the mobo.

So tonight my objectives are these:

1. Fix my CPU Vcore voltage and maybe get more stablility
2. See if I can't get my RAM up to 2133 and keep it stable (but I can live with 1866)
3. Get a soild test result from IBT

I will let you know TomcatV of the results.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> I tried with backing down to 1600, my system locked up after 45 seconds. At least at 1866 it ran one whole cycle before BSODing.
> However, while talking with Destrto and by him pointing me in different directions I think I have something figured out and where to continue on this now that I have corrected my cooling issue.
> 
> The fans I have are whisper quiet and most times I don't even know if they are running becuase they are so quiet but they push more air than my AC does. Over 80 cfm for each fan. So I have 9 fans pushing in the right direction now, all between 2500-3000 RPMs and all 80cfm or more airflow. While playing Tomb Raider last night (on ultra) my CPU core temp didn't go any higher than 40c and my mobo was a soild 31c. Before I was at 65c for the CPU and 50c for the mobo.
> 
> So tonight my objectives are these:
> 
> 1. Fix my CPU Vcore voltage and maybe get more stablility
> 2. See if I can't get my RAM up to 2133 and keep it stable (but I can live with 1866)
> 3. Get a soild test result from IBT
> 
> I will let you know TomcatV of the results.


If your system locks up after backing down your RAM, there might be other settings that werent reverted as well that caused that.
The RAM, like TomcatV said, is best tried at stock settings for the initial testing phase.

Just because it lasted for one cycle before BSOD, doesnt mean that the higher clock is more stable than the lower one. Just means those settings were more stable at the time. To rule out multiple causes of BSOD's and headaches, only overclock one aspect at a time. Either RAM first, or CPU. Trying to do both at the same time and getting crashes won't tell you which one caused it, and you could be running in circles trying to change one setting, and being at the wrong end of the root cause.

A good way to make sure you are starting on a fresh slate, is to set EVERYTHING back to stock settings. And starting over, one piece at a time. Leave RAM at stock, and start testing just the CPU. Then once you get that situated, start on the RAM.


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> If your system locks up after backing down your RAM, there might be other settings that werent reverted as well that caused that.
> The RAM, like TomcatV said, is best tried at stock settings for the initial testing phase.
> 
> Just because it lasted for one cycle before BSOD, doesnt mean that the higher clock is more stable than the lower one. Just means those settings were more stable at the time. To rule out multiple causes of BSOD's and headaches, only overclock one aspect at a time. Either RAM first, or CPU. Trying to do both at the same time and getting crashes won't tell you which one caused it, and you could be running in circles trying to change one setting, and being at the wrong end of the root cause.
> 
> A good way to make sure you are starting on a fresh slate, is to set EVERYTHING back to stock settings. And starting over, one piece at a time. Leave RAM at stock, and start testing just the CPU. Then once you get that situated, start on the RAM.


Good news!

Ram OCed to 1866 CAS 10 10-11-10-30 1.5v STABLE!
CPU Stock setting 3.6GHz Turbo Disabled(No OC yet) 200 MHz with a clock multiplier of 18.0
Ran IBT without issues.

HWPro Readings

HWMonitorPRO.txt 52k .txt file

IBT Report

results-[5-10-2013]-[184241].txt 1k .txt file


----------



## Lifeshield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> Good news!
> 
> Ram OCed to 1866 CAS 10 10-11-10-30 1.5v STABLE!
> CPU Stock setting 3.6GHz Turbo Disabled(No OC yet) 200 MHz with a clock multiplier of 18.0
> Ran IBT without issues.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IntelBurnTest v2.54
> Created by AgentGOD
> 
> Processor: AMD FX(tm)-8150 Eight-Core Processor
> Clock Speed: 3.64 GHz
> Active Physical Cores: 8
> Total System Memory: 16248 MB
> 
> Stress Level: Standard (1024 MB)
> Testing started on 5/10/2013 6:42:41 PM
> Time (s) Speed (GFlops) Result
> [18:43:31] 28.263 31.6269 3.375027e-002
> [18:44:34] 31.239 28.6141 3.375027e-002
> [18:45:19] 28.082 31.8315 3.375027e-002
> [18:46:03] 28.145 31.7598 3.375027e-002
> [18:46:47] 28.247 31.6457 3.375027e-002
> Testing ended on 5/10/2013 6:46:47 PM
> Test Result: Success.
> 
> CPUID HWMonitorPro Report
> 
> Binaries
> 
> HWMonitorPro version 1.1.6.0
> 
> Monitoring
> 
> Mainboard Model CROSSHAIR V FORMULA-Z (0x000005E1 - 0xC32420D8)
> 
> LPCIO
> 
> LPCIO Vendor ITE
> LPCIO Model IT8721
> LPCIO Vendor ID 0x90
> LPCIO Chip ID 0x8721
> LPCIO Revision ID 0x1
> Config Mode I/O address 0x2E
> Config Mode LDN 0x4
> Config Mode registers
> 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 0A 0B 0C 0D 0E 0F
> 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 04 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
> 10 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
> 20 87 21 01 00 00 80 99 09 C0 00 00 00 9F 00 00 00
> 30 01 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
> 40 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
> 50 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
> 60 02 90 02 30 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
> 70 00 02 00 00 04 04 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
> Register space LPC, base address = 0x0290
> 
> Hardware Monitors
> 
> Hardware monitor ITE IT8721
> Voltage 0 11.53 Volts [0xE7] (+12V)
> Voltage 1 4.96 Volts [0xEC] (+5V)
> Voltage 2 1.14 Volts [0x5F] (CPU VCORE)
> Voltage 3 1.69 Volts [0x8D] (VIN3)
> Voltage 4 0.83 Volts [0x45] (VIN4)
> Voltage 5 3.10 Volts [0xCF] (+3.3V)
> Voltage 6 1.54 Volts [0x80] (VIN6)
> Voltage 7 0.80 Volts [0x43] (VIN7)
> Voltage 8 1.69 Volts [0x8D] (VIN8)
> Temperature 0 37°C (98°F) [0x25] (CPU)
> Temperature 1 34°C (93°F) [0x22] (Mainboard)
> Fan 0 2163 RPM [0x138] (CPU)
> Fan PWM 0 0 pc [0x0] (FANPWM0)
> Fan PWM 1 0 pc [0x0] (FANPWM1)
> Fan PWM 2 0 pc [0x0] (FANPWM2)
> Register space LPC, base address = 0x0290
> 
> 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 0A 0B 0C 0D 0E 0F
> 00 19 02 FB 03 00 00 00 00 00 80 58 0F 03 38 FF 00
> 10 30 C4 74 37 C7 80 80 80 01 FF 00 08 43 4D 4D 4D
> 20 E7 EC 5F 8D 45 CF 80 43 8D 25 22 80 80 C3 63 63
> 30 C1 31 32 A5 F2 55 43 C1 24 12 54 A8 80 29 CE 93
> 40 DB 03 DA C7 41 85 5F 40 AD 6A D4 00 FF FF FF FF
> 50 2F 18 7F 7F 7F 40 00 00 90 00 3A 12 60 00 00 00
> 60 80 11 45 EF 03 40 00 FF 80 00 7F FF 00 41 00 FF
> 70 80 00 44 EF 02 40 00 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
> 80 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 F4 02 39
> 90 FF 00 00 00 FF 00 00 00 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
> A0 EF AD AD AD AD AD AD FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
> B0 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
> C0 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
> D0 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
> E0 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
> F0 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
> 
> Hardware monitor Back-UPS BX1300G FW:864.L1 .D USB FW:L1
> Voltage 0 27.02 Volts [0xA8E] (Battery)
> Power 0 312.00 W [0x28] (Load)
> Level 0 100 pc [0x64] (Battery)
> 
> Hardware monitor Battery
> 
> Hardware monitor AMD ADL
> Voltage 0 1.17 Volts [0x497] (VIN0)
> Temperature 0 50°C (122°F) [0x32] (TMPIN0)
> 
> Processors
> 
> Number of processors 1
> Number of threads 8
> 
> APICs
> 
> Processor 0
> -- Core 0
> -- Thread 0 0
> -- Core 1
> -- Thread 0 1
> -- Core 2
> -- Thread 0 2
> -- Core 3
> -- Thread 0 3
> -- Core 4
> -- Thread 0 4
> -- Core 5
> -- Thread 0 5
> -- Core 6
> -- Thread 0 6
> -- Core 7
> -- Thread 0 7
> 
> Timers
> 
> ACPI timer 3.580 MHz
> HPET timer 14.318 MHz
> Perf timer 3.528 MHz
> Sys timer 1.000 KHz
> 
> Processors Information
> 
> Processor 1 ID = 0
> Number of cores 8 (max 8)
> Number of threads 8 (max 8)
> Name AMD FX-8150
> Codename Zambezi
> Specification AMD FX(tm)-8150 Eight-Core Processor
> Package Socket AM3+ (942)
> CPUID F.1.2
> Extended CPUID 15.1
> Core Stepping OR-B2
> Technology 32 nm
> TDP Limit 124 Watts
> Core Speed 3612.1 MHz
> Multiplier x FSB 18.0 x 200.7 MHz
> Rated Bus speed 2207.4 MHz
> Stock frequency 3600 MHz
> Instructions sets MMX (+), SSE, SSE2, SSE3, SSSE3, SSE4.1, SSE4.2, SSE4A, x86-64, AMD-V, AES, AVX, XOP
> L1 Data cache 8 x 16 KBytes, 4-way set associative, 64-byte line size
> L1 Instruction cache 4 x 64 KBytes, 2-way set associative, 64-byte line size
> L2 cache 4 x 2048 KBytes, 16-way set associative, 64-byte line size
> L3 cache 8 MBytes, 64-way set associative, 64-byte line size
> FID/VID Control yes
> Min FID 7.0x
> # of P-States 7
> P-State FID 0x1A - VID 0x0B - IDD 18 (21.00x - 1.412 V)
> P-State FID 0x17 - VID 0x12 - IDD 18 (19.50x - 1.325 V)
> P-State FID 0x14 - VID 0x1D - IDD 12 (18.00x - 1.188 V)
> P-State FID 0x11 - VID 0x20 - IDD 11 (16.50x - 1.150 V)
> P-State FID 0xB - VID 0x27 - IDD 8 (13.50x - 1.063 V)
> P-State FID 0x5 - VID 0x2D - IDD 7 (10.50x - 0.987 V)
> P-State FID 0x10C - VID 0x35 - IDD 5 (7.00x - 0.887 V)
> 
> PStateReg 0x800001B5-0x0000161A
> PStateReg 0x800001B5-0x00002417
> PStateReg 0x80000176-0x00003A14
> PStateReg 0x8000016A-0x00004011
> PStateReg 0x80000153-0x00004E0B
> PStateReg 0x80000141-0x00005A05
> PStateReg 0x8000012D-0x00006A4C
> PStateReg 0x00000000-0x00000000
> 
> Package Type 0x1
> Model 00
> String 1 0x0
> String 2 0x0
> Page 0x0
> Base TDP 14 Watts
> Boosted P-States 2
> Max non-turbo ratio 18.00x
> Max turbo ratio 21.00x
> TSC 3612.1 MHz
> APERF 3612.0 MHz
> MPERF 3612.2 MHz
> Attached device PCI device at bus 0, device 24, function 0
> 100 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 110 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 120 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 130 000000C1 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 140 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 150 00073100 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 160 00000000 00000000 00000400 0066E066
> 170 00000109 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 180 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 190 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 1A0 80000003 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 1B0 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 1C0 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 1D0 00000000 00000000 00000000 000000FE
> 1E0 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 1F0 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 
> Attached device PCI device at bus 0, device 24, function 1
> 100 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000001
> 110 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 120 00000000 00000085 00000000 00000000
> 130 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 140 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 150 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 160 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 170 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 180 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 190 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 1A0 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 1B0 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 1C0 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 1D0 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 1E0 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 1F0 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 
> Attached device PCI device at bus 0, device 24, function 2
> 100 00000000 00004359 00000000 00000000
> 110 000005C4 00000000 044CA424 0CE00F7B
> 120 00BE1220 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 130 03A40141 80D00A11 80830039 26D94940
> 140 00000001 00000109 00000000 00000000
> 150 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 160 01F83EE0 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 170 00000000 00000000 00020000 18240118
> 180 0000000A 00800004 3C000000 00020000
> 190 0B010000 0F580896 8D0F4007 00000000
> 1A0 031D0200 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 1B0 0FC39001 480F7D47 00000000 00000000
> 1C0 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 1D0 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 1E0 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 1F0 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 
> Attached device PCI device at bus 0, device 24, function 3
> 100 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 110 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 120 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 130 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 140 00A11755 00000055 0000C12A 00000000
> 150 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 160 C00A0FFF 00000000 C00A0FFF 00000000
> 170 C00A0FFF 00000000 00000000 00000009
> 180 017003E2 00000000 08000210 00000000
> 190 00000000 00000000 00780400 00000000
> 1A0 00034104 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 1B0 01096326 00000000 00141000 00000000
> 1C0 00000000 0003CCCC 00000000 00000100
> 1D0 00000000 00000000 002B170F 00000000
> 1E0 00000000 80001387 00000000 00000000
> 1F0 00080000 00000000 00000000 0000074F
> 
> Attached device PCI device at bus 0, device 24, function 4
> 100 00000000 00000321 00000000 00B401E2
> 110 000FE001 00000000 0107000B 00000000
> 120 00000000 00000000 00000500 00000000
> 130 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 140 10623AFF 0000030C 20A2FC79 000006DA
> 150 00000869 00E1BFB4 00000000 00000008
> 160 00600F12 00000001 00000000 00000457
> 170 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 180 E000530F 00001005 00000000 00000000
> 190 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 1A0 0000000E 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 1B0 00000000 00000000 003A01FB 00000000
> 1C0 00000000 00000110 00000000 00000090
> 1D0 00080000 0000FFFF 00000000 00000000
> 1E0 0B6A161A 0B6A2417 0AEC3A14 0AD44011
> 1F0 0AA64E0B 0A825A05 0A5A6A4C 00000000
> 
> Attached device PCI device at bus 0, device 24, function 5
> 100 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 110 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 120 00002222 00000000 00009135 00000000
> 130 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 140 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 150 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 160 00007C0F 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 170 00000808 0001F038 00000000 00000000
> 180 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 190 2233457A 0000000B 00202020 00000000
> 1A0 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 1B0 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 1C0 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 1D0 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 1E0 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 1F0 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
> 
> Thread dumps
> 
> CPU Thread 0
> APIC ID 0
> Topology Processor ID 0, Core ID 0, Thread ID 0
> Type 02020001h
> Max CPUID level 0000000Dh
> Max CPUID ext. level 8000001Eh
> Cache descriptor Level 1, D, 16 KB, 1 thread(s)
> Cache descriptor Level 1, I, 64 KB, 2 thread(s)
> Cache descriptor Level 2, U, 2 MB, 2 thread(s)
> Cache descriptor Level 3, U, 8 MB, 8 thread(s)
> 
> CPUID
> 0x00000000 0x0000000D 0x68747541 0x444D4163 0x69746E65
> 0x00000001 0x00600F12 0x00080800 0x1E98220B 0x178BFBFF
> 0x00000002 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000003 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000004 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000005 0x00000040 0x00000040 0x00000003 0x00000000
> 0x00000006 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000001 0x00000000
> 0x00000007 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000008 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000009 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000A 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000B 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000C 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000D 0x00000007 0x00000340 0x000003C0 0x40000000
> 0x80000000 0x8000001E 0x68747541 0x444D4163 0x69746E65
> 0x80000001 0x00600F12 0x10000000 0x01C9BFFF 0x2FD3FBFF
> 0x80000002 0x20444D41 0x74285846 0x382D296D 0x20303531
> 0x80000003 0x68676945 0x6F432D74 0x50206572 0x65636F72
> 0x80000004 0x726F7373 0x20202020 0x20202020 0x00202020
> 0x80000005 0xFF20FF18 0xFF20FF30 0x10040140 0x40020140
> 0x80000006 0x64000000 0x64004200 0x08008140 0x0040C140
> 0x80000007 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x000003D9
> 0x80000008 0x00003030 0x00000000 0x00004007 0x00000000
> 0x80000009 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000A 0x00000001 0x00010000 0x00000000 0x000014FF
> 0x8000000B 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000C 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000D 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000E 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000F 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000010 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000011 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000012 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000013 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000014 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000015 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000016 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000017 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000018 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000019 0xF020F018 0x64000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000001A 0x00000003 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000001B 0x000000FF 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000001C 0x00000000 0x80032013 0x00010200 0x8000000F
> 0x8000001D 0x00000121 0x00C0003F 0x0000003F 0x00000000
> 0x8000001D 0x00004122 0x0040003F 0x000001FF 0x00000000
> 0x8000001D 0x00004143 0x03C0003F 0x000007FF 0x00000001
> 0x8000001D 0x0001C163 0x0FC0003F 0x000007FF 0x00000001
> 0x8000001E 0x00000010 0x00000100 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 
> MSR 0x0000001B 0x00000000 0xFEE00900
> MSR 0xC0010114 0x00000000 0x00000008
> MSR 0xC0010061 0x00000000 0x00000040
> MSR 0xC0010062 0x00000000 0x00000000
> MSR 0xC0010063 0x00000000 0x00000000
> MSR 0xC0010064 0x800001B5 0x0000161A
> MSR 0xC0010065 0x800001B5 0x00002417
> MSR 0xC0010066 0x80000176 0x00003A14
> MSR 0xC0010067 0x8000016A 0x00004011
> MSR 0xC0010068 0x80000153 0x00004E0B
> MSR 0xC0010015 0x00000000 0x01000011
> MSR 0xC001001F 0x00404000 0x00810008
> MSR 0xC0010058 0x00000000 0xE0000021
> MSR 0xC0010071 0x02800006 0x3E023A14
> MSR 0xC0010070 0x00000000 0x3E023A14
> 
> CPU Thread 1
> APIC ID 1
> Topology Processor ID 0, Core ID 1, Thread ID 0
> Type 02020001h
> Max CPUID level 0000000Dh
> Max CPUID ext. level 8000001Eh
> Cache descriptor Level 1, D, 16 KB, 1 thread(s)
> Cache descriptor Level 1, I, 64 KB, 2 thread(s)
> Cache descriptor Level 2, U, 2 MB, 2 thread(s)
> Cache descriptor Level 3, U, 8 MB, 8 thread(s)
> 
> CPUID
> 0x00000000 0x0000000D 0x68747541 0x444D4163 0x69746E65
> 0x00000001 0x00600F12 0x01080800 0x1E98220B 0x178BFBFF
> 0x00000002 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000003 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000004 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000005 0x00000040 0x00000040 0x00000003 0x00000000
> 0x00000006 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000001 0x00000000
> 0x00000007 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000008 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000009 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000A 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000B 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000C 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000D 0x00000007 0x00000340 0x000003C0 0x40000000
> 0x80000000 0x8000001E 0x68747541 0x444D4163 0x69746E65
> 0x80000001 0x00600F12 0x10000000 0x01C9BFFF 0x2FD3FBFF
> 0x80000002 0x20444D41 0x74285846 0x382D296D 0x20303531
> 0x80000003 0x68676945 0x6F432D74 0x50206572 0x65636F72
> 0x80000004 0x726F7373 0x20202020 0x20202020 0x00202020
> 0x80000005 0xFF20FF18 0xFF20FF30 0x10040140 0x40020140
> 0x80000006 0x64000000 0x64004200 0x08008140 0x0040C140
> 0x80000007 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x000003D9
> 0x80000008 0x00003030 0x00000000 0x00004007 0x00000000
> 0x80000009 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000A 0x00000001 0x00010000 0x00000000 0x000014FF
> 0x8000000B 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000C 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000D 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000E 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000F 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000010 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000011 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000012 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000013 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000014 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000015 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000016 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000017 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000018 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000019 0xF020F018 0x64000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000001A 0x00000003 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000001B 0x000000FF 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000001C 0x00000000 0x80032013 0x00010200 0x8000000F
> 0x8000001D 0x00000121 0x00C0003F 0x0000003F 0x00000000
> 0x8000001D 0x00004122 0x0040003F 0x000001FF 0x00000000
> 0x8000001D 0x00004143 0x03C0003F 0x000007FF 0x00000001
> 0x8000001D 0x0001C163 0x0FC0003F 0x000007FF 0x00000001
> 0x8000001E 0x00000011 0x00000100 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 
> MSR 0x0000001B 0x00000000 0xFEE00800
> MSR 0xC0010114 0x00000000 0x00000008
> MSR 0xC0010061 0x00000000 0x00000040
> MSR 0xC0010062 0x00000000 0x00000000
> MSR 0xC0010063 0x00000000 0x00000000
> MSR 0xC0010064 0x800001B5 0x0000161A
> MSR 0xC0010065 0x800001B5 0x00002417
> MSR 0xC0010066 0x80000176 0x00003A14
> MSR 0xC0010067 0x8000016A 0x00004011
> MSR 0xC0010068 0x80000153 0x00004E0B
> MSR 0xC0010015 0x00000000 0x01000011
> MSR 0xC001001F 0x00404000 0x00810008
> MSR 0xC0010058 0x00000000 0xE0000021
> MSR 0xC0010071 0x02800006 0x3E023A14
> MSR 0xC0010070 0x00000000 0x3E023A14
> 
> CPU Thread 2
> APIC ID 2
> Topology Processor ID 0, Core ID 2, Thread ID 0
> Type 02020001h
> Max CPUID level 0000000Dh
> Max CPUID ext. level 8000001Eh
> Cache descriptor Level 1, D, 16 KB, 1 thread(s)
> Cache descriptor Level 1, I, 64 KB, 2 thread(s)
> Cache descriptor Level 2, U, 2 MB, 2 thread(s)
> Cache descriptor Level 3, U, 8 MB, 8 thread(s)
> 
> CPUID
> 0x00000000 0x0000000D 0x68747541 0x444D4163 0x69746E65
> 0x00000001 0x00600F12 0x02080800 0x1E98220B 0x178BFBFF
> 0x00000002 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000003 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000004 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000005 0x00000040 0x00000040 0x00000003 0x00000000
> 0x00000006 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000001 0x00000000
> 0x00000007 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000008 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000009 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000A 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000B 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000C 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000D 0x00000007 0x00000340 0x000003C0 0x40000000
> 0x80000000 0x8000001E 0x68747541 0x444D4163 0x69746E65
> 0x80000001 0x00600F12 0x10000000 0x01C9BFFF 0x2FD3FBFF
> 0x80000002 0x20444D41 0x74285846 0x382D296D 0x20303531
> 0x80000003 0x68676945 0x6F432D74 0x50206572 0x65636F72
> 0x80000004 0x726F7373 0x20202020 0x20202020 0x00202020
> 0x80000005 0xFF20FF18 0xFF20FF30 0x10040140 0x40020140
> 0x80000006 0x64000000 0x64004200 0x08008140 0x0040C140
> 0x80000007 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x000003D9
> 0x80000008 0x00003030 0x00000000 0x00004007 0x00000000
> 0x80000009 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000A 0x00000001 0x00010000 0x00000000 0x000014FF
> 0x8000000B 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000C 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000D 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000E 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000F 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000010 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000011 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000012 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000013 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000014 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000015 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000016 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000017 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000018 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000019 0xF020F018 0x64000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000001A 0x00000003 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000001B 0x000000FF 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000001C 0x00000000 0x80032013 0x00010200 0x8000000F
> 0x8000001D 0x00000121 0x00C0003F 0x0000003F 0x00000000
> 0x8000001D 0x00004122 0x0040003F 0x000001FF 0x00000000
> 0x8000001D 0x00004143 0x03C0003F 0x000007FF 0x00000001
> 0x8000001D 0x0001C163 0x0FC0003F 0x000007FF 0x00000001
> 0x8000001E 0x00000012 0x00000101 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 
> MSR 0x0000001B 0x00000000 0xFEE00800
> MSR 0xC0010114 0x00000000 0x00000008
> MSR 0xC0010061 0x00000000 0x00000040
> MSR 0xC0010062 0x00000000 0x00000000
> MSR 0xC0010063 0x00000000 0x00000000
> MSR 0xC0010064 0x800001B5 0x0000161A
> MSR 0xC0010065 0x800001B5 0x00002417
> MSR 0xC0010066 0x80000176 0x00003A14
> MSR 0xC0010067 0x8000016A 0x00004011
> MSR 0xC0010068 0x80000153 0x00004E0B
> MSR 0xC0010015 0x00000000 0x01000011
> MSR 0xC001001F 0x00404000 0x00810008
> MSR 0xC0010058 0x00000000 0xE0000021
> MSR 0xC0010071 0x02800006 0x3E023A14
> MSR 0xC0010070 0x00000000 0x3E023A14
> 
> CPU Thread 3
> APIC ID 3
> Topology Processor ID 0, Core ID 3, Thread ID 0
> Type 02020001h
> Max CPUID level 0000000Dh
> Max CPUID ext. level 8000001Eh
> Cache descriptor Level 1, D, 16 KB, 1 thread(s)
> Cache descriptor Level 1, I, 64 KB, 2 thread(s)
> Cache descriptor Level 2, U, 2 MB, 2 thread(s)
> Cache descriptor Level 3, U, 8 MB, 8 thread(s)
> 
> CPUID
> 0x00000000 0x0000000D 0x68747541 0x444D4163 0x69746E65
> 0x00000001 0x00600F12 0x03080800 0x1E98220B 0x178BFBFF
> 0x00000002 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000003 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000004 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000005 0x00000040 0x00000040 0x00000003 0x00000000
> 0x00000006 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000001 0x00000000
> 0x00000007 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000008 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000009 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000A 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000B 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000C 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000D 0x00000007 0x00000340 0x000003C0 0x40000000
> 0x80000000 0x8000001E 0x68747541 0x444D4163 0x69746E65
> 0x80000001 0x00600F12 0x10000000 0x01C9BFFF 0x2FD3FBFF
> 0x80000002 0x20444D41 0x74285846 0x382D296D 0x20303531
> 0x80000003 0x68676945 0x6F432D74 0x50206572 0x65636F72
> 0x80000004 0x726F7373 0x20202020 0x20202020 0x00202020
> 0x80000005 0xFF20FF18 0xFF20FF30 0x10040140 0x40020140
> 0x80000006 0x64000000 0x64004200 0x08008140 0x0040C140
> 0x80000007 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x000003D9
> 0x80000008 0x00003030 0x00000000 0x00004007 0x00000000
> 0x80000009 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000A 0x00000001 0x00010000 0x00000000 0x000014FF
> 0x8000000B 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000C 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000D 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000E 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000F 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000010 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000011 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000012 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000013 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000014 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000015 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000016 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000017 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000018 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000019 0xF020F018 0x64000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000001A 0x00000003 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000001B 0x000000FF 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000001C 0x00000000 0x80032013 0x00010200 0x8000000F
> 0x8000001D 0x00000121 0x00C0003F 0x0000003F 0x00000000
> 0x8000001D 0x00004122 0x0040003F 0x000001FF 0x00000000
> 0x8000001D 0x00004143 0x03C0003F 0x000007FF 0x00000001
> 0x8000001D 0x0001C163 0x0FC0003F 0x000007FF 0x00000001
> 0x8000001E 0x00000013 0x00000101 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 
> MSR 0x0000001B 0x00000000 0xFEE00800
> MSR 0xC0010114 0x00000000 0x00000008
> MSR 0xC0010061 0x00000000 0x00000040
> MSR 0xC0010062 0x00000000 0x00000001
> MSR 0xC0010063 0x00000000 0x00000000
> MSR 0xC0010064 0x800001B5 0x0000161A
> MSR 0xC0010065 0x800001B5 0x00002417
> MSR 0xC0010066 0x80000176 0x00003A14
> MSR 0xC0010067 0x8000016A 0x00004011
> MSR 0xC0010068 0x80000153 0x00004E0B
> MSR 0xC0010015 0x00000000 0x01000011
> MSR 0xC001001F 0x00404000 0x00810008
> MSR 0xC0010058 0x00000000 0xE0000021
> MSR 0xC0010071 0x02800006 0x3E023A14
> MSR 0xC0010070 0x00000000 0x3E034011
> 
> CPU Thread 4
> APIC ID 4
> Topology Processor ID 0, Core ID 4, Thread ID 0
> Type 02020001h
> Max CPUID level 0000000Dh
> Max CPUID ext. level 8000001Eh
> Cache descriptor Level 1, D, 16 KB, 1 thread(s)
> Cache descriptor Level 1, I, 64 KB, 2 thread(s)
> Cache descriptor Level 2, U, 2 MB, 2 thread(s)
> Cache descriptor Level 3, U, 8 MB, 8 thread(s)
> 
> CPUID
> 0x00000000 0x0000000D 0x68747541 0x444D4163 0x69746E65
> 0x00000001 0x00600F12 0x04080800 0x1E98220B 0x178BFBFF
> 0x00000002 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000003 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000004 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000005 0x00000040 0x00000040 0x00000003 0x00000000
> 0x00000006 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000001 0x00000000
> 0x00000007 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000008 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000009 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000A 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000B 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000C 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000D 0x00000007 0x00000340 0x000003C0 0x40000000
> 0x80000000 0x8000001E 0x68747541 0x444D4163 0x69746E65
> 0x80000001 0x00600F12 0x10000000 0x01C9BFFF 0x2FD3FBFF
> 0x80000002 0x20444D41 0x74285846 0x382D296D 0x20303531
> 0x80000003 0x68676945 0x6F432D74 0x50206572 0x65636F72
> 0x80000004 0x726F7373 0x20202020 0x20202020 0x00202020
> 0x80000005 0xFF20FF18 0xFF20FF30 0x10040140 0x40020140
> 0x80000006 0x64000000 0x64004200 0x08008140 0x0040C140
> 0x80000007 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x000003D9
> 0x80000008 0x00003030 0x00000000 0x00004007 0x00000000
> 0x80000009 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000A 0x00000001 0x00010000 0x00000000 0x000014FF
> 0x8000000B 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000C 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000D 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000E 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000F 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000010 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000011 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000012 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000013 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000014 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000015 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000016 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000017 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000018 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000019 0xF020F018 0x64000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000001A 0x00000003 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000001B 0x000000FF 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000001C 0x00000000 0x80032013 0x00010200 0x8000000F
> 0x8000001D 0x00000121 0x00C0003F 0x0000003F 0x00000000
> 0x8000001D 0x00004122 0x0040003F 0x000001FF 0x00000000
> 0x8000001D 0x00004143 0x03C0003F 0x000007FF 0x00000001
> 0x8000001D 0x0001C163 0x0FC0003F 0x000007FF 0x00000001
> 0x8000001E 0x00000014 0x00000102 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 
> MSR 0x0000001B 0x00000000 0xFEE00800
> MSR 0xC0010114 0x00000000 0x00000008
> MSR 0xC0010061 0x00000000 0x00000040
> MSR 0xC0010062 0x00000000 0x00000000
> MSR 0xC0010063 0x00000000 0x00000000
> MSR 0xC0010064 0x800001B5 0x0000161A
> MSR 0xC0010065 0x800001B5 0x00002417
> MSR 0xC0010066 0x80000176 0x00003A14
> MSR 0xC0010067 0x8000016A 0x00004011
> MSR 0xC0010068 0x80000153 0x00004E0B
> MSR 0xC0010015 0x00000000 0x01000011
> MSR 0xC001001F 0x00404000 0x00810008
> MSR 0xC0010058 0x00000000 0xE0000021
> MSR 0xC0010071 0x02800006 0x3E023A14
> MSR 0xC0010070 0x00000000 0x3E023A14
> 
> CPU Thread 5
> APIC ID 5
> Topology Processor ID 0, Core ID 5, Thread ID 0
> Type 02020001h
> Max CPUID level 0000000Dh
> Max CPUID ext. level 8000001Eh
> Cache descriptor Level 1, D, 16 KB, 1 thread(s)
> Cache descriptor Level 1, I, 64 KB, 2 thread(s)
> Cache descriptor Level 2, U, 2 MB, 2 thread(s)
> Cache descriptor Level 3, U, 8 MB, 8 thread(s)
> 
> CPUID
> 0x00000000 0x0000000D 0x68747541 0x444D4163 0x69746E65
> 0x00000001 0x00600F12 0x05080800 0x1E98220B 0x178BFBFF
> 0x00000002 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000003 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000004 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000005 0x00000040 0x00000040 0x00000003 0x00000000
> 0x00000006 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000001 0x00000000
> 0x00000007 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000008 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000009 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000A 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000B 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000C 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000D 0x00000007 0x00000340 0x000003C0 0x40000000
> 0x80000000 0x8000001E 0x68747541 0x444D4163 0x69746E65
> 0x80000001 0x00600F12 0x10000000 0x01C9BFFF 0x2FD3FBFF
> 0x80000002 0x20444D41 0x74285846 0x382D296D 0x20303531
> 0x80000003 0x68676945 0x6F432D74 0x50206572 0x65636F72
> 0x80000004 0x726F7373 0x20202020 0x20202020 0x00202020
> 0x80000005 0xFF20FF18 0xFF20FF30 0x10040140 0x40020140
> 0x80000006 0x64000000 0x64004200 0x08008140 0x0040C140
> 0x80000007 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x000003D9
> 0x80000008 0x00003030 0x00000000 0x00004007 0x00000000
> 0x80000009 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000A 0x00000001 0x00010000 0x00000000 0x000014FF
> 0x8000000B 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000C 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000D 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000E 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000F 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000010 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000011 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000012 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000013 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000014 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000015 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000016 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000017 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000018 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000019 0xF020F018 0x64000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000001A 0x00000003 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000001B 0x000000FF 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000001C 0x00000000 0x80032013 0x00010200 0x8000000F
> 0x8000001D 0x00000121 0x00C0003F 0x0000003F 0x00000000
> 0x8000001D 0x00004122 0x0040003F 0x000001FF 0x00000000
> 0x8000001D 0x00004143 0x03C0003F 0x000007FF 0x00000001
> 0x8000001D 0x0001C163 0x0FC0003F 0x000007FF 0x00000001
> 0x8000001E 0x00000015 0x00000102 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 
> MSR 0x0000001B 0x00000000 0xFEE00800
> MSR 0xC0010114 0x00000000 0x00000008
> MSR 0xC0010061 0x00000000 0x00000040
> MSR 0xC0010062 0x00000000 0x00000001
> MSR 0xC0010063 0x00000000 0x00000000
> MSR 0xC0010064 0x800001B5 0x0000161A
> MSR 0xC0010065 0x800001B5 0x00002417
> MSR 0xC0010066 0x80000176 0x00003A14
> MSR 0xC0010067 0x8000016A 0x00004011
> MSR 0xC0010068 0x80000153 0x00004E0B
> MSR 0xC0010015 0x00000000 0x01000011
> MSR 0xC001001F 0x00404000 0x00810008
> MSR 0xC0010058 0x00000000 0xE0000021
> MSR 0xC0010071 0x02800006 0x3E023A14
> MSR 0xC0010070 0x00000000 0x3E034011
> 
> CPU Thread 6
> APIC ID 6
> Topology Processor ID 0, Core ID 6, Thread ID 0
> Type 02020001h
> Max CPUID level 0000000Dh
> Max CPUID ext. level 8000001Eh
> Cache descriptor Level 1, D, 16 KB, 1 thread(s)
> Cache descriptor Level 1, I, 64 KB, 2 thread(s)
> Cache descriptor Level 2, U, 2 MB, 2 thread(s)
> Cache descriptor Level 3, U, 8 MB, 8 thread(s)
> 
> CPUID
> 0x00000000 0x0000000D 0x68747541 0x444D4163 0x69746E65
> 0x00000001 0x00600F12 0x06080800 0x1E98220B 0x178BFBFF
> 0x00000002 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000003 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000004 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000005 0x00000040 0x00000040 0x00000003 0x00000000
> 0x00000006 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000001 0x00000000
> 0x00000007 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000008 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000009 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000A 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000B 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000C 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000D 0x00000007 0x00000340 0x000003C0 0x40000000
> 0x80000000 0x8000001E 0x68747541 0x444D4163 0x69746E65
> 0x80000001 0x00600F12 0x10000000 0x01C9BFFF 0x2FD3FBFF
> 0x80000002 0x20444D41 0x74285846 0x382D296D 0x20303531
> 0x80000003 0x68676945 0x6F432D74 0x50206572 0x65636F72
> 0x80000004 0x726F7373 0x20202020 0x20202020 0x00202020
> 0x80000005 0xFF20FF18 0xFF20FF30 0x10040140 0x40020140
> 0x80000006 0x64000000 0x64004200 0x08008140 0x0040C140
> 0x80000007 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x000003D9
> 0x80000008 0x00003030 0x00000000 0x00004007 0x00000000
> 0x80000009 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000A 0x00000001 0x00010000 0x00000000 0x000014FF
> 0x8000000B 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000C 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000D 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000E 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000F 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000010 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000011 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000012 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000013 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000014 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000015 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000016 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000017 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000018 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000019 0xF020F018 0x64000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000001A 0x00000003 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000001B 0x000000FF 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000001C 0x00000000 0x80032013 0x00010200 0x8000000F
> 0x8000001D 0x00000121 0x00C0003F 0x0000003F 0x00000000
> 0x8000001D 0x00004122 0x0040003F 0x000001FF 0x00000000
> 0x8000001D 0x00004143 0x03C0003F 0x000007FF 0x00000001
> 0x8000001D 0x0001C163 0x0FC0003F 0x000007FF 0x00000001
> 0x8000001E 0x00000016 0x00000103 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 
> MSR 0x0000001B 0x00000000 0xFEE00800
> MSR 0xC0010114 0x00000000 0x00000008
> MSR 0xC0010061 0x00000000 0x00000040
> MSR 0xC0010062 0x00000000 0x00000000
> MSR 0xC0010063 0x00000000 0x00000000
> MSR 0xC0010064 0x800001B5 0x0000161A
> MSR 0xC0010065 0x800001B5 0x00002417
> MSR 0xC0010066 0x80000176 0x00003A14
> MSR 0xC0010067 0x8000016A 0x00004011
> MSR 0xC0010068 0x80000153 0x00004E0B
> MSR 0xC0010015 0x00000000 0x01000011
> MSR 0xC001001F 0x00404000 0x00810008
> MSR 0xC0010058 0x00000000 0xE0000021
> MSR 0xC0010071 0x02800006 0x3E023A14
> MSR 0xC0010070 0x00000000 0x3E023A14
> 
> CPU Thread 7
> APIC ID 7
> Topology Processor ID 0, Core ID 7, Thread ID 0
> Type 02020001h
> Max CPUID level 0000000Dh
> Max CPUID ext. level 8000001Eh
> Cache descriptor Level 1, D, 16 KB, 1 thread(s)
> Cache descriptor Level 1, I, 64 KB, 2 thread(s)
> Cache descriptor Level 2, U, 2 MB, 2 thread(s)
> Cache descriptor Level 3, U, 8 MB, 8 thread(s)
> 
> CPUID
> 0x00000000 0x0000000D 0x68747541 0x444D4163 0x69746E65
> 0x00000001 0x00600F12 0x07080800 0x1E98220B 0x178BFBFF
> 0x00000002 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000003 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000004 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000005 0x00000040 0x00000040 0x00000003 0x00000000
> 0x00000006 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000001 0x00000000
> 0x00000007 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000008 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x00000009 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000A 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000B 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000C 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x0000000D 0x00000007 0x00000340 0x000003C0 0x40000000
> 0x80000000 0x8000001E 0x68747541 0x444D4163 0x69746E65
> 0x80000001 0x00600F12 0x10000000 0x01C9BFFF 0x2FD3FBFF
> 0x80000002 0x20444D41 0x74285846 0x382D296D 0x20303531
> 0x80000003 0x68676945 0x6F432D74 0x50206572 0x65636F72
> 0x80000004 0x726F7373 0x20202020 0x20202020 0x00202020
> 0x80000005 0xFF20FF18 0xFF20FF30 0x10040140 0x40020140
> 0x80000006 0x64000000 0x64004200 0x08008140 0x0040C140
> 0x80000007 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x000003D9
> 0x80000008 0x00003030 0x00000000 0x00004007 0x00000000
> 0x80000009 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000A 0x00000001 0x00010000 0x00000000 0x000014FF
> 0x8000000B 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000C 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000D 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000E 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000000F 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000010 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000011 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000012 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000013 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000014 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000015 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000016 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000017 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000018 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x80000019 0xF020F018 0x64000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000001A 0x00000003 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000001B 0x000000FF 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 0x8000001C 0x00000000 0x80032013 0x00010200 0x8000000F
> 0x8000001D 0x00000121 0x00C0003F 0x0000003F 0x00000000
> 0x8000001D 0x00004122 0x0040003F 0x000001FF 0x00000000
> 0x8000001D 0x00004143 0x03C0003F 0x000007FF 0x00000001
> 0x8000001D 0x0001C163 0x0FC0003F 0x000007FF 0x00000001
> 0x8000001E 0x00000017 0x00000103 0x00000000 0x00000000
> 
> MSR 0x0000001B 0x00000000 0xFEE00800
> MSR 0xC0010114 0x00000000 0x00000008
> MSR 0xC0010061 0x00000000 0x00000040
> MSR 0xC0010062 0x00000000 0x00000001
> MSR 0xC0010063 0x00000000 0x00000000
> MSR 0xC0010064 0x800001B5 0x0000161A
> MSR 0xC0010065 0x800001B5 0x00002417
> MSR 0xC0010066 0x80000176 0x00003A14
> MSR 0xC0010067 0x8000016A 0x00004011
> MSR 0xC0010068 0x80000153 0x00004E0B
> MSR 0xC0010015 0x00000000 0x01000011
> MSR 0xC001001F 0x00404000 0x00810008
> MSR 0xC0010058 0x00000000 0xE0000021
> MSR 0xC0010071 0x02800006 0x3E023A14
> MSR 0xC0010070 0x00000000 0x3E034011
> 
> Graphic APIs
> 
> API ATI I/O
> API ADL SDK
> 
> Display Adapters
> 
> Display adapter 0
> Name AMD Radeon HD 7900 Series
> PCI device bus 1 (0x1), device 0 (0x0), function 0 (0x0)
> Vendor ID 0x1002 (0x1682)
> Model ID 0x6798 (0x3211)
> 
> ACPI
> 
> ACPI Tree
> _GPE
> _L1B
> _L03
> _L04
> _L0B
> _L0F
> _L10
> _L11
> _L12
> _L18
> IOB2
> [ ]
> SMIC
> _L05
> _L07
> _PR_
> SSDT
> DCOR
> TBLD
> NPSS
> HNDL
> APSS
> P001
> TYPE
> _PDC
> _CST
> _CSD
> P002
> TYPE
> _PDC
> _CST
> _CSD
> P003
> TYPE
> _PDC
> _CST
> _CSD
> P004
> TYPE
> _PDC
> _CST
> _CSD
> P005
> TYPE
> _PDC
> _CST
> _CSD
> P006
> TYPE
> _PDC
> _CST
> _CSD
> P007
> TYPE
> _PDC
> _CST
> _CSD
> P008
> TYPE
> _PDC
> _CST
> _CSD
> _SB_
> PR00
> AR00
> PR20
> AR20
> PR21
> AR21
> PR12
> AR12
> PR13
> AR13
> PR14
> AR14
> PR15
> AR15
> PR16
> AR16
> PR17
> AR17
> PR19
> AR19
> PR1A
> AR1A
> PR1B
> AR1B
> PR1C
> AR1C
> PR1D
> AR1D
> PR0C
> AR0C
> PRSA
> PRSB
> PRSC
> PRSE
> PRSF
> PRSG
> PRSH
> PRSD
> PCI0
> _HID
> _ADR
> _BBN
> _UID
> _PRT
> CPRB
> LVGA
> STAV
> BRB_
> BRL_
> IOB_
> IOL_
> MBB_
> MBL_
> MABL
> MABH
> MALL
> MALH
> MAML
> MAMH
> CRS1
> CRS2
> _STA
> _CRS
> AMDN
> _HID
> _UID
> _STA
> NPTR
> _CRS
> NPTS
> NWAK
> SMBS
> _ADR
> SMBS
> [ ]
> [ ]
> REV_
> [ ]
> I1F_
> I12F
> [ ]
> MT3A
> [ ]
> EIDX
> [ ]
> EDAT
> [ ]
> [ ]
> [ ]
> [ ]
> G39E
> G41E
> [ ]
> [ ]
> [ ]
> G39O
> G41O
> WIDE
> [ ]
> DUM1
> SOPT
> GPIO
> [ ]
> [ ]
> [ ]
> G06E
> G06O
> G06I
> G07B
> [ ]
> G0BB
> [ ]
> G0EB
> [ ]
> [ ]
> G14E
> G14O
> G14I
> [ ]
> G15E
> G15O
> G15I
> [ ]
> [ ]
> G1CI
> [ ]
> [ ]
> G2DE
> G2DO
> G2DI
> [ ]
> [ ]
> G35E
> G35O
> [ ]
> [ ]
> G37E
> G37O
> G37I
> [ ]
> [ ]
> GE05
> [ ]
> [ ]
> GE15
> [ ]
> GE16
> [ ]
> [ ]
> GE22
> [ ]
> [ ]
> GAAE
> GAAO
> GAAI
> [ ]
> GAFB
> GB0B
> GPMX
> [ ]
> [ ]
> G06M
> G07M
> [ ]
> G0BM
> [ ]
> G0EM
> [ ]
> G14M
> G15M
> [ ]
> G1CM
> [ ]
> G2DM
> [ ]
> G37M
> [ ]
> G70M
> [ ]
> G76M
> [ ]
> GAFM
> GB0M
> IDEC
> _ADR
> UDMT
> PIOT
> PITR
> MDMT
> MDTR
> IDE_
> [ ]
> PPIT
> SPIT
> PMDT
> SMDT
> PPIC
> ****
> PPIM
> SPIM
> [ ]
> PUDC
> SUDC
> [ ]
> PUDM
> SUDM
> GETT
> GTM_
> STM_
> GTF_
> PRID
> _ADR
> _GTM
> _STM
> P_D0
> _ADR
> _GTF
> P_D1
> _ADR
> _GTF
> SECD
> _ADR
> _GTM
> _STM
> S_D0
> _ADR
> _GTF
> S_D1
> _ADR
> _GTF
> SBAZ
> _ADR
> PCI_
> [ ]
> [ ]
> DNSP
> DNSO
> ENSR
> _PRW
> SBRG
> _ADR
> RMBS
> [ ]
> [ ]
> LR2S
> LR2E
> SMIP
> [ ]
> SMIC
> GPIO
> [ ]
> [ ]
> [ ]
> CLPS
> [ ]
> [ ]
> SLPS
> [ ]
> FSCR
> FSSR
> [ ]
> [ ]
> ALLS
> SPTS
> SWAK
> IPTS
> S800
> _HID
> _UID
> _STA
> CRS_
> _CRS
> SIO1
> _HID
> _UID
> CRS_
> _CRS
> DCAT
> MUT0
> ENFG
> EXFG
> LPTM
> UHID
> IOID
> [ ]
> INDX
> DATA
> [ ]
> [ ]
> LDN_
> [ ]
> SCF1
> SCF2
> SCF3
> SCF4
> SCF5
> SCF6
> [ ]
> CKCF
> [ ]
> ACTR
> [ ]
> IOAH
> IOAL
> IOH2
> IOL2
> [ ]
> INTR
> [ ]
> DMCH
> [ ]
> OPT0
> OPT1
> OPT2
> OPT3
> OPT4
> OPT5
> OPT6
> CGLD
> DSTA
> DCNT
> CRS1
> IRQM
> DMAM
> IO11
> IO12
> LEN1
> CRS2
> IRQE
> DMAE
> IO21
> IO22
> LEN2
> IO31
> IO32
> LEN3
> CRS4
> IRQL
> IRQS
> IOHL
> IORL
> ALMN
> LENG
> DCRS
> DCR2
> DCR4
> DSRS
> DSR2
> DSR4
> PMFG
> SIOS
> SIOW
> SIOH
> EC0_
> _HID
> _CRS
> DPRT
> CPRT
> _GPE
> REGC
> _Q80
> _Q81
> _Q82
> _Q83
> PIC_
> _HID
> _CRS
> DMAD
> _HID
> _CRS
> TMR_
> _HID
> _CRS
> RTC0
> _HID
> _CRS
> SPKR
> _HID
> _CRS
> RRIO
> RDMA
> RMSC
> _HID
> _UID
> CRS1
> CRS2
> _CRS
> COPR
> _HID
> _CRS
> NBRM
> _HID
> _UID
> CRS_
> _CRS
> PS2K
> _HID
> _CID
> _STA
> _CRS
> _PRS
> _PSW
> _PRW
> PS2M
> _HID
> _CID
> _STA
> CRS1
> CRS2
> _CRS
> _PRS
> _PSW
> _PRW
> TPM_
> _HID
> _CID
> _STR
> _UID
> _CRS
> TMMB
> [ ]
> ACCS
> [ ]
> TSTA
> TBCA
> [ ]
> TVID
> TDID
> _STA
> TSMI
> [ ]
> INQ_
> DAT_
> _DSM
> S3RS
> SLIC
> WMI1
> _HID
> _UID
> _WDG
> WMMX
> P0PC
> _ADR
> _PRW
> _PRT
> UHC1
> _ADR
> _PRW
> UHC2
> _ADR
> _PRW
> UHC4
> _ADR
> _PRW
> UHC6
> _ADR
> _PRW
> UHC7
> _ADR
> _PRW
> SATA
> _ADR
> _INI
> SACS
> [ ]
> [ ]
> STB5
> SPTM
> PRID
> _ADR
> _GTM
> _STM
> _STA
> PRIS
> _PS0
> _PS3
> _PSC
> P_D0
> _ADR
> _STA
> S12P
> _PS0
> _PS3
> _PSC
> P_D1
> _ADR
> _STA
> S12P
> _PS0
> _PS3
> _PSC
> SECD
> _ADR
> _GTM
> _STM
> SECS
> _STA
> _PS0
> _PS3
> _PSC
> S_D0
> _ADR
> _STA
> S12P
> _PS0
> _PS3
> _PSC
> S_D1
> _ADR
> _STA
> S12P
> _PS0
> _PS3
> _PSC
> PE20
> _ADR
> _PRW
> _PRT
> HRU4
> _ADR
> _RMV
> PE21
> _ADR
> _PRW
> _PRT
> PE22
> _ADR
> _PRW
> PE23
> _ADR
> _PRW
> IOMA
> _ADR
> NBF2
> [ ]
> DID_
> [ ]
> MBAS
> UMEM
> _HID
> _UID
> CRS_
> _CRS
> RD8A
> _ADR
> NB2_
> [ ]
> [ ]
> MI__
> MD__
> [ ]
> HI__
> HD__
> [ ]
> API_
> APD_
> NMEM
> _HID
> _UID
> CRS_
> _CRS
> PC02
> _ADR
> _PRW
> _PRT
> HRU4
> _ADR
> _RMV
> PC03
> _ADR
> _PRW
> _PRT
> HRU4
> _ADR
> _RMV
> PC04
> _ADR
> _PRW
> _PRT
> HRU4
> _ADR
> _RMV
> PC05
> _ADR
> _PRW
> _PRT
> PC06
> _ADR
> _PRW
> _PRT
> PC07
> _ADR
> _PRW
> _PRT
> PC09
> _ADR
> _PRW
> _PRT
> PC0A
> _ADR
> _PRW
> _PRT
> HRU4
> _ADR
> _RMV
> PC0B
> _ADR
> _PRW
> _PRT
> HRU4
> _ADR
> _RMV
> PC0C
> _ADR
> _PRW
> _PRT
> HRU4
> _ADR
> _RMV
> PC0D
> _ADR
> _PRW
> _PRT
> HRU4
> _ADR
> _RMV
> USB3
> _ADR
> _PRW
> USB5
> _ADR
> _PRW
> _INI
> ITPD
> [ ]
> [ ]
> TPDI
> TVID
> [ ]
> VIDT
> ITPM
> _HID
> _CID
> _STR
> _CRS
> TSMI
> [ ]
> INQ_
> DAT_
> TPMR
> [ ]
> ACC0
> _STA
> _DSM
> BN00
> PWRB
> _HID
> _UID
> _STA
> _PRW
> PIRQ
> [ ]
> PIDX
> PDAT
> [ ]
> PIRA
> PIRB
> PIRC
> PIRD
> PIRE
> PIRF
> PIRG
> PIRH
> [ ]
> PIRS
> [ ]
> HDAD
> [ ]
> GEC_
> [ ]
> USB1
> USB2
> USB3
> USB4
> USB5
> USB6
> USB7
> [ ]
> IDE_
> SATA
> [ ]
> GPP0
> GPP1
> GPP2
> GPP3
> KBDD
> [ ]
> PD64
> IRQC
> INTA
> INTB
> INTC
> INTD
> BUFA
> IPRA
> IPRB
> IPRC
> IPRD
> LNKA
> _HID
> _UID
> _STA
> _PRS
> _DIS
> _CRS
> _SRS
> LNKB
> _HID
> _UID
> _STA
> _PRS
> _DIS
> _CRS
> _SRS
> LNKC
> _HID
> _UID
> _STA
> _PRS
> _DIS
> _CRS
> _SRS
> LNKD
> _HID
> _UID
> _STA
> _PRS
> _DIS
> _CRS
> _SRS
> LNKE
> _HID
> _UID
> _STA
> _PRS
> _DIS
> _CRS
> _SRS
> LNKF
> _HID
> _UID
> _STA
> _PRS
> _DIS
> _CRS
> _SRS
> LNKG
> _HID
> _UID
> _STA
> _PRS
> _DIS
> _CRS
> _SRS
> LNKH
> _HID
> _UID
> _STA
> _PRS
> _DIS
> _CRS
> _SRS
> RMEM
> _HID
> _UID
> RAMB
> [ ]
> DSAF
> PAR0
> PAR1
> PAR2
> PINX
> PADD
> MPAR
> ARBF
> REAX
> REBX
> RECX
> REDX
> IOB2
> [ ]
> SMIC
> SMIS
> ISMI
> GMSR
> SMSR
> PRID
> GPRE
> GNVS
> SNVS
> SARM
> GAMM
> SAMM
> _SI_
> _TZ_
> _REV
> _OS_
> _OSI
> _GL_
> SP1O
> IO1B
> IO1L
> IO2B
> IO2L
> IO3B
> IO3L
> SMBB
> SMBL
> SMB0
> SMBM
> PMBS
> PMLN
> SMIO
> GPBS
> GPLN
> APCB
> APCL
> SPIB
> SPIL
> HPTB
> HPTL
> GIOB
> IOMB
> SMIB
> PEBS
> PEBL
> ACPH
> ASSB
> AOTB
> AAXB
> PEHP
> SHPC
> PEPM
> PEER
> PECS
> ITKE
> MBEC
> AMWV
> SMIT
> OFST
> TRST
> TPMF
> TCMF
> TMF1
> TMF2
> TMF3
> TBSW
> SMIP
> PICM
> _PIC
> OSVR
> OSFL
> MCTH
> PRWP
> GPRW
> WAKP
> DEB0
> [ ]
> DBG8
> DEB1
> [ ]
> DBG9
> SS1_
> SS2_
> SS3_
> SS4_
> IOST
> TOPM
> ROMS
> VGAF
> OSTY
> ACMS
> [ ]
> ICMS
> DCMS
> [ ]
> P80_
> [ ]
> [ ]
> BS_A
> CFGS
> [ ]
> [ ]
> PCIE
> [ ]
> [ ]
> GGN2
> [ ]
> GECE
> IR_E
> [ ]
> [ ]
> OSCF
> [ ]
> PRS0
> DET0
> [ ]
> PRS1
> DET1
> [ ]
> PRS2
> DET2
> [ ]
> PRS3
> DET3
> [ ]
> [ ]
> ABPS
> [ ]
> GPPS
> CMPT
> [ ]
> CMID
> [ ]
> GPCT
> GP0I
> GP1I
> GP2I
> GP3I
> GP4I
> GP5I
> GP6I
> GP7I
> PCFG
> [ ]
> [ ]
> [ ]
> PMSA
> [ ]
> [ ]
> PMSB
> [ ]
> [ ]
> PMSC
> [ ]
> STCL
> [ ]
> SMIE
> SMME
> [ ]
> RVID
> [ ]
> SMB1
> [ ]
> [ ]
> G31O
> [ ]
> [ ]
> ACIR
> [ ]
> PCMD
> [ ]
> PMS0
> [ ]
> TLS0
> [ ]
> PMS1
> [ ]
> TLS1
> [ ]
> PMS2
> [ ]
> TLS2
> [ ]
> PMS3
> [ ]
> TLS3
> PMIO
> [ ]
> INPM
> DAPM
> [ ]
> [ ]
> MMSO
> [ ]
> P1EB
> ERMM
> [ ]
> [ ]
> [ ]
> GP51
> [ ]
> [ ]
> GP55
> [ ]
> [ ]
> GP59
> [ ]
> GP62
> [ ]
> [ ]
> GP64
> [ ]
> [ ]
> GE11
> [ ]
> GE12
> [ ]
> [ ]
> BATS
> [ ]
> [ ]
> CLPS
> [ ]
> [ ]
> G15A
> [ ]
> [ ]
> SLPS
> [ ]
> EPNM
> DPPF
> [ ]
> [ ]
> PWDE
> [ ]
> [ ]
> ALLS
> [ ]
> PHYD
> [ ]
> [ ]
> US5R
> [ ]
> GECD
> ABIO
> [ ]
> INAB
> DAAB
> RDAB
> WTAB
> RWAB
> CABR
> GENC
> GHPS
> GEN2
> GEN1
> P1E0
> [ ]
> [ ]
> PEWS
> WSTA
> [ ]
> PEWD
> SPTS
> SWAK
> TRMD
> CPMS
> KBFG
> MSFG
> HPET
> _HID
> CRS_
> _STA
> _CRS
> WOTB
> WSSB
> WAXB
> _PTS
> _WAK
> OMSC
> _HID
> _UID
> AMW0
> _HID
> _UID
> _WDG
> CCAC
> ECD2
> EID2
> WED2
> WMBC
> RSMB
> WSMB
> RSMW
> WSMW
> RSMK
> WSMK
> WMBD
> _WED
> AMWR
> AMWN
> WQMO
> SPEC
> DEVP
> SDSP
> GDSP
> DEVS
> DSTS
> GPID
> KBFT
> HKEY
> CFVS
> CFVG
> RAMW
> WBYT
> W2YT
> RBYT
> R2YT
> SMRG
> [ ]
> HSTS
> SSTS
> HSTC
> HCMD
> HADR
> HDT0
> HDT1
> BLKD
> [ ]
> H2TS
> S2TS
> H2TC
> H2MD
> H2DR
> H2T0
> H2T1
> ASCM
> A2CM
> _S0_
> _S1_
> _S3_
> _S4_
> _S5_
> PTS_
> WAK_


Use a spoiler tag please mate.


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lifeshield*
> 
> Use a spoiler tag please mate.


Fixed it


----------



## khaosstrife

Doing the Maximum stress test right now and I have two temps.

One under the mobo: CPU 46.0C / Mainboard 35.0C

And other under the actual CPU: Package 28.1C

This is under 100% load for more than 10 mins.

Which one should I go with for deciding my true CPU core temp?


----------



## khaosstrife

Maximum IBT results:

results-[5-10-2013]-[18543].txt 1k .txt file


----------



## khaosstrife

Last update for the night,

Running stable at 4GHz. No issues and everything is running way smoother now.

Here are the results of the IBT:

results-[5-10-2013]-[215130].txt 1k .txt file


Going to run some more benchmarks and I'll post the results later. My temps are staying really low now. Glade I got that fixed


----------



## Zillerella

Happy to hear it work now


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> Doing the Maximum stress test right now and I have two temps.
> 
> One under the mobo: CPU 46.0C / Mainboard 35.0C
> 
> And other under the actual CPU: Package 28.1C
> 
> This is under 100% load for more than 10 mins.
> 
> Which one should I go with for deciding my true CPU core temp?


Your actual CPU core temp is "package". Go with that.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

I have a question for anyone using a H100/H100i,whats the best method of cleaning the rad,and have you ever tried cleaning the rad without removing the block off of the cpu...


----------



## kizwan

I use small brush, like a small paint brush, to clean the radiator. I didn't removed CPU block when cleaning, only the radiator.

This is a picture taken while cleaning my radiator sometime earlier this year.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I use small brush, like a small paint brush, to clean the radiator. I didn't removed CPU block when cleaning, only the radiator.
> 
> This is a picture taken while cleaning my radiator sometime earlier this year.


Thanks for replying,but how do you clean between the fins...


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Your actual CPU core temp is "package". Go with that.


Cool. So I idle around 10-14c. At 100% load (folding) my max is 28c. And that's from running 15 hours straight. Id say she's running pretty cool.


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Thanks for replying,but how do you clean between the fins...


I use the brush attachment on my vaccum and i just let it touch enough to get the particals. You could use some canned air. That will do the trick but will blow the dust all over if your not careful about it


----------



## cravinmild

THIS



Three cans of compressed air would pay for this Datavac. Blow any rad clean


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Thanks for replying,but how do you clean between the fins...


You can use something like this.


----------



## pc-illiterate

You can also use an old toothbrush. Works wonders getting in tight places.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> Cool. So I idle around 10-14c. At 100% load (folding) my max is 28c. And that's from running 15 hours straight. Id say she's running pretty cool.


I would agree. That's very cool. Glad to see everything working for you.


----------



## ahnafakeef

Hi everyone!

The TIM on the H100i comes pre-applied, right? If so, then how long does it last? Does it come with extra TIM that I can use when I have to reapply it?

Thanks a lot!


----------



## Zillerella

Quote:


> The TIM on the H100i comes pre-applied, right? If so, then how long does it last? Does it come with extra TIM that I can use when I have to reapply it?


The TIM is pre-applied, but it dosent ship with extra TIM you can use later on. You have to buy new TIM, but it dosen't cost much







.
The stock TIM should be good.


----------



## ahnafakeef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> The TIM is pre-applied, but it dosent ship with extra TIM you can use later on. You have to buy new TIM, but it dosen't cost much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> The stock TIM should be good.


How long until the pre-applied TIM becomes unusable and I have to apply it again?
I'm not bothered about buying TIM, I'm bothered about applying it. My current air cooler is pissing me off, one of the major reasons being incorrect TIM application method.

Thanks a lot!


----------



## Zillerella

I'm not a Thermal compound pro so I really don't know about that, but I did some fast researsch









People say: if you applied the compound properly it should last you many years (if it's applied wrong you can se it on your temps). You should be more aware of the dust in the heatsink/radiator.

Well that was what I found


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahnafakeef*
> 
> How long until the pre-applied TIM becomes unusable and I have to apply it again?
> I'm not bothered about buying TIM, I'm bothered about applying it. My current air cooler is pissing me off, one of the major reasons being incorrect TIM application method.
> 
> Thanks a lot!


No need to re-apply TIM until you removed the block for some reason or when you see the temps increase higher than it should be. It should last at least a year or two. Basically just monitor the temp.


----------



## navit

I had a H50 on my AMD rig for over three years with the same Tim it came that came on it with zero problems.


----------



## ahnafakeef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> I'm not a Thermal compound pro so I really don't know about that, but I did some fast researsch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People say: if you applied the compound properly it should last you many years (if it's applied wrong you can se it on your temps). You should be more aware of the dust in the heatsink/radiator.
> 
> Well that was what I found


So it depends on whether Corsair applied the TIM properly or not. Got it. Thanks a lot!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> No need to re-apply TIM until you removed the block for some reason or when you see the temps increase higher than it should be. It should last at least a year or two. Basically just monitor the temp.


What if I have to remove the block for some reason? Will that warrant a need for reapplying TIM?
Thanks!







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> I had a H50 on my AMD rig for over three years with the same Tim it came that came on it with zero problems.


Have you ever had to remove the cooler off of the CPU? Will the same TIM do the job if I remove the cooler from the CPU?
Thanks!


----------



## Zillerella

Quote:


> So it depends on whether Corsair applied the TIM properly or not


Corsair applied the TIm pixel perfect







It's a thin layer that cover the whole CPU block.
And as the other guy say. You really only need to re-apply when you take of the CPU block


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahnafakeef*
> 
> Hi everyone!
> 
> The TIM on the H100i comes pre-applied, right? If so, then how long does it last? Does it come with extra TIM that I can use when I have to reapply it?
> 
> Thanks a lot!


Yes, THe TIM is pre-applied. And it lasts about as long as any other TIM would, years. It does not come with extra


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahnafakeef*
> 
> So it depends on whether Corsair applied the TIM properly or not. Got it. Thanks a lot!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What if I have to remove the block for some reason? Will that warrant a need for reapplying TIM?
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you ever had to remove the cooler off of the CPU? Will the same TIM do the job if I remove the cooler from the CPU?
> Thanks!


The TIM is mechanically applied, its 99% perfect in 99% of installations.

If you have to remove the block, you will have to clean the block and reapply TIM. THis should be done EVERY time you remove the block from the CPU.

I have removed the cooler from the cpu many times, with many different coolers. The same cooler TIM is usually not usable once it has been attached to a cpu.


----------



## ahnafakeef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> Corsair applied the TIm pixel perfect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a thin layer that cover the whole PSU block.
> And as the other guy say. You really only need to re-apply when you take of the CPU block


Whats a PSU block? and whats a CPU block?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Yes, THe TIM is pre-applied. And it lasts about as long as any other TIM would, years. It does not come with extra


Got it. Thanks!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> The TIM is mechanically applied, its 99% perfect in 99% of installations.
> 
> If you have to remove the block, you will have to clean the block and reapply TIM. THis should be done EVERY time you remove the block from the CPU.
> 
> I have removed the cooler from the cpu many times, with many different coolers. The same cooler TIM is usually not usable once it has been attached to a cpu.


Got it! Thanks!


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahnafakeef*
> 
> Whats a PSU block? and whats a CPU block?
> Got it. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it! Thanks!


I believe he meant the cpu block to be the cpu itself. And the psu block to be the cooler. The block is in reference to the part that actually mounts onto the CPU


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> I've been running the H100 series for about 6 months now and I have been loving it. However last night my system has been getting really hot, like 65c hot core temp. I'll post some pics later when I get home of my current configuration but I suspect it is because I am not getting enough cold air through the radiator. I am currently running an AMD FX-8150 @ 4.16 GHz per core.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> Cool. So I idle around 10-14c. At 100% load (folding) my max is 28c. And that's from running 15 hours straight. Id say she's running pretty cool.
Click to expand...

I find this absolutely amazing that you have an appx 35c improvement in load temps by just cleaning your radiator and fans. No remount, no discovery of inoperative fans? Did I miss something








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> And it lasts about as long as any other TIM would, years.


^^^ This ... I've seen quality TIM w/proper mounting last as long as the processor 5-7 years+
But on my personal rig I don't think I've ever gone more than 2 years without a remount for one reason or another. I'm presently at 18 months on my H100 w/stock TIM and absolutely NO decline in temperature performance. I also have an H50 out there, slightly different stock TIM going on 3+ years with no problems


----------



## ahnafakeef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I believe he meant the cpu block to be the cpu itself. And the psu block to be the cooler. The block is in reference to the part that actually mounts onto the CPU


I see. Thanks!


----------



## Zillerella

I wrote wrong... No comment







It's because im used to write PSU a lot so it's more common and CPU is very close to PSU or?


----------



## pc-illiterate

tomcat, 1 reason khaos' temps are so low, im assuming, is his temp readings are off. no way he idles at 10-14*C unless his ambient is 50-57*F and he idles at ambient.
i dont know what effect folding has on temps but 100% load at 28*C (82*F) is only 6*C over 'normal' controlled temps, 22*C (72*F). at an ambient of 10-14*C it might be about right.
these temps on an h100i or even h110? i doubt it.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> tomcat, 1 reason khaos' temps are so low, im assuming, is his temp readings are off. no way he idles at 10-14*C unless his ambient is 50-57*F and he idles at ambient.
> i dont know what effect folding has on temps but 100% load at 28*C (82*F) is only 6*C over 'normal' controlled temps, 22*C (72*F). at an ambient of 10-14*C it might be about right.
> these temps on an h100i or even h110? i doubt it.


I get temps around 15-18C at idle with 74F Ambient. I run an H100 stock.
I wouldnt say theyre 100% accurate, because they get very sensitive to any activity on the CPU. But I can see his temps being that low at idle. As mine are similar.


----------



## pc-illiterate

im sorry but its impossible to get under ambient without a tec, chiller, bong cooling or any other extreme cooling solution. go ask in the water cooling section.
im done. ive stated a fact so i have no more to say.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> im sorry but its impossible to get under ambient without a tec, chiller, bong cooling or any other extreme cooling solution. go ask in the water cooling section.
> im done. ive stated a fact so i have no more to say.


Attitude much??
We're stating what we are reading.. Multiple programs have given me the exact same reading every time. So whether you believe it is possible or not, those are our readings.

Idle temps dont add much helpful information on an overclock anyway.. So getting pissy doesnt help anybody.


----------



## Destrto

Three different temp reading software results..



Argue what you will... Those are my results...


----------



## pc-illiterate

i dont have an attitude. im not getting pissy.im just telling you those temp readings are wrong. it is impossible to go sub-ambient without any form of extreme cooling.

*EDIT* was just informed bulldozer is inaccurate until about 46*. it is totally possible to read 13* idle temps but its a false reading.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i dont have an attitude. im not getting pissy.im just telling you those temp readings are wrong. it is impossible to go sub-ambient without any form of extreme cooling.
> 
> *EDIT* was just informed bulldozer is inaccurate until about 46*. it is totally possible to read 13* idle temps but its a false reading.


So it IS possible to get those readings.. They just arent accurate.. Being informed helps a whole lot, doesnt it..


----------



## pc-illiterate

so my first statement holds true, his temp readings are wrong. you could have just as easily said yes, bulldozer and vishera do not report correct temperatures until they reach about 46*C.
would that have been so difficult?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> so my first statement holds true, his temp readings are wrong. you could have just as easily said yes, bulldozer and vishera do not report correct temperatures until they reach about 46*C.
> would that have been so difficult?


Would it have been so difficult to not assumed information you did not know, and not have said anything at all yourself?
I'm willing to admit i was both right and wrong.. My temps do in fact read lower than ambient as i showed in the photo.. But i didnt say it was "impossible" for that to happen..Because it is possible, even though the actual readings are not correct from what we see within the software. I also stated that idle temps do not really do us any good. Because we cannot verify their accuracy.

But all in all, we were both right and we were both wrong..Agree?


----------



## justanoldman

Ivy can have bad idle temps too, one of mine will show below ambient also sometimes. It is, of course, impossible so most people just ignore idle temps unless there is something really strange going on with them.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> But all in all, we were both right and we were both wrong..Agree?


no im never wrong







lol

agreed


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> no im never wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> agreed











Good deal. Any man willing to admit his flaws, is a man on the road to fixing them.
Myself included.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I get temps around 15-18C at idle with 74F Ambient. I run an H100 stock.
> I wouldnt say theyre 100% accurate, because they get very sensitive to any activity on the CPU. But I can see his temps being that low at idle. As mine are similar.


74f is 23c. Please stop mixing standard and metric units.

You cannot idle at less than ambient unless you have some type of cooler that will cool below room temperature, which the closed loop water coolers will not do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> im sorry but its impossible to get under ambient without a tec, chiller, bong cooling or any other extreme cooling solution. go ask in the water cooling section.
> im done. ive stated a fact so i have no more to say.


Agree 100%
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Attitude much??
> We're stating what we are reading.. Multiple programs have given me the exact same reading every time. So whether you believe it is possible or not, those are our readings.
> 
> Idle temps dont add much helpful information on an overclock anyway.. So getting pissy doesnt help anybody.


He's not "getting pissy", he's stating a fact. When someone says they are idling lower than room temp, that's just wrong and they should be called on it. Calling someone on obviously wrong statements isn't "getting pissy".

If you get readings that say you are lower than room temp then you have a software or hardware problem (in this case, the classic faulty AMD temperature sensors). What you claim is impossible with these coolers unless you're sticking the rad in ice water or something. This is one of the reasons I stopped purchasing AMD CPUs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> So it IS possible to get those readings.. They just arent accurate.. Being informed helps a whole lot, doesnt it..


You're the one who needs to be informed. It's your system and you didn't research it before making unrealistic temperature claims publicly. And no, he was not wrong at all. He said you can't get a temp below ambient, and he is correct. Really, what does it take to realize you can't cool below ambient without some type of refrigeration?

Please people, don't mix standard and metric. It's bad form.


----------



## cravinmild

My 1155T would read 11c sometimes but I knew it was not possible unroll I saw my OC 580 @ 16c, figured the heat stopped working that night and came back on before I woke up


----------



## PedroC1999

Fx CPU's have a very, very innacurate temperature sensor at low loads, only anything past %40 ish is accurate, I for example Idle at 5*C, while my room is at 20*c

But the load sensor is very accurate. But the idle sensors is the definition of piss-poor


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> 74f is 23c. Please stop mixing standard and metric units.
> 
> You cannot idle at less than ambient unless you have some type of cooler that will cool below room temperature, which the closed loop water coolers will not do.
> Agree 100%
> He's not "getting pissy", he's stating a fact. When someone says they are idling lower than room temp, that's just wrong and they should be called on it. Calling someone on obviously wrong statements isn't "getting pissy".
> 
> If you get readings that say you are lower than room temp then you have a software or hardware problem (in this case, the classic faulty AMD temperature sensors). What you claim is impossible with these coolers unless you're sticking the rad in ice water or something. This is one of the reasons I stopped purchasing AMD CPUs.
> You're the one who needs to be informed. It's your system and you didn't research it before making unrealistic temperature claims publicly. And no, he was not wrong at all. He said you can't get a temp below ambient, and he is correct. Really, what does it take to realize you can't cool below ambient without some type of refrigeration?
> 
> Please people, don't mix standard and metric. It's bad form.


This was unnecessary as we had both moved passed this subject...Thanks though...*rolls eyes*


----------



## Fieldsweeper

what kind of temps do you guys with an H110 and a 3930K get? at what clocks and volts??


----------



## cravinmild

well I cant say about your chip itself but the H110 keeps my 2700k around 32c idle and I don't go over 45c unless I have P95 or the like running. This is stock/silent but ive heard the H110 will really shine when overclocking. I have just installed the H110 and have yet to OC the chip. Sorry cant be more help.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> tomcat, 1 reason khaos' temps are so low, im assuming, is his temp readings are off. no way he idles at 10-14*C unless his ambient is 50-57*F and he idles at ambient.
> i dont know what effect folding has on temps but 100% load at 28*C (82*F) is only 6*C over 'normal' controlled temps, 22*C (72*F). at an ambient of 10-14*C it might be about right.
> these temps on an h100i or even h110? i doubt it.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> well I cant say about your chip itself but the H110 keeps my 2700k around 32c idle and I don't go over 45c unless I have P95 or the like running. This is stock/silent but ive heard the H110 will really shine when overclocking. I have just installed the H110 and have yet to OC the chip. Sorry cant be more help.
Click to expand...

Yea I was trying to be "Nice" to Khaos it's Mother's Day








But how he solved his problem doesn't make sense, or his initial and consequent reporting was in error? (or unclear?) ... Why is it so hard to post a screenshot with your monitoring/stressing programs AND a little TXT window showing AMBIENTS and other non software monitoring info











*EDIT: Just for kicks what's wrong with this pic that looks like a [email protected] settings?*

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Fx CPU's have a very, very innacurate temperature sensor at low loads, only anything past %40 ish is accurate, I for example Idle at 5*C, while my room is at 20*c
> But the load sensor is very accurate. But the idle sensors is the definition of piss-poor










... but it also makes me wonder about AMD's load sensors these days


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I find this absolutely amazing that you have an appx 35c improvement in load temps by just cleaning your radiator and fans. No remount, no discovery of inoperative fans? Did I miss something


The main issue was that my in/out pipes were resting on top of my RAM. I flipped my rad around and cleaned it out, added two more fans to the underside of my rad and reversed the air flow from out to in.

I am now idling at around 13c and at 100% load (for over 12 hours) not going any higher than 28c now.


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I would agree. That's very cool. Glad to see everything working for you.


Yeah, things are running much better now.

Feeling like a bit of a n00b right now though.... I happened to overlook something before I started to work my timings and voltage on my rig.

There is this thing called a BIOS update you know? Apparently the guys at ASUS found a lot oft he same issues I was having (with OCing) and released a fix.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> Yeah, things are running much better now.
> 
> Feeling like a bit of a n00b right now though.... I happened to overlook something before I started to work my timings and voltage on my rig.
> 
> There is this thing called a BIOS update you know? Apparently the guys at ASUS found a lot oft he same issues I was having (with OCing) and released a fix.


Haha.. Well updating your BIOS now won't cause any adverse affects.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... but it also makes me wonder about AMD's load sensors these days


As far as I know, AMD CPU temperature is not the physical CPU temperature. AMD use their own scale to accurately determine the CPU temperature. AMD processor max temp (like TJmax) also very low, e.g. FX-8120/8150 is 61C. AMD 23C for example is not "real world" 23C. It just their own scale to determine when to thermal throttling, when to thermal shutdown, etc. Intel CPU temp also not really accurate especially when idling. They only look convincing because they usually above ambient.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> The main issue was that my in/out pipes were resting on top of my RAM. I flipped my rad around and cleaned it out, added two more fans to the underside of my rad and reversed the air flow from out to in.
> I am now idling at around 13c and at 100% load (for over 12 hours) not going any higher than 28c now.


cleaning out your rad and adding pull fans. pull fans helping by2-3*C. that rad must have been packed to allow no airflow because exhaust to intake wouldnt account for more than 10*C? the water lines resting on top of the ram sticks would do nothing to add heat unless there was so much pressure as to kink the lines almost closed.

can you get a screen shot of p95 running for an hour? i would like to see how your temps compare to other bd temps on p95 load. amazing that folding doesnt stress the cpu the same or as much.


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> cleaning out your rad and adding pull fans. pull fans helping by2-3*C. that rad must have been packed to allow no airflow because exhaust to intake wouldnt account for more than 10*C? the water lines resting on top of the ram sticks would do nothing to add heat unless there was so much pressure as to kink the lines almost closed.
> 
> can you get a screen shot of p95 running for an hour? i would like to see how your temps compare to other bd temps on p95 load. amazing that folding doesnt stress the cpu the same or as much.


Sure thing. I'll go ahead and take care of this tonight if I have time. If not I will post it when I have time.


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Haha.. Well updating your BIOS now won't cause any adverse affects.


No adverse effects, that is if you don't count the sytem zeroing itself out and having to manually input all the OC settings then nope. No issues at all.


----------



## BradleyW

Hi, I have a H100i and I was wondering, what is the best way to make sure that any air bubbles are eaten by the pump? I had shaken the rad and tipped it upright and I heard bubbles getting thrown around in the pump.

Thanks for any suggestions!


----------



## Zillerella

Quote:


> Hi, I have a H100i and I was wondering, what is the best way to make sure that any air bubbles are eaten by the pump? I had shaken the rad and tipped it upright and I heard bubbles getting thrown around in the pump.


Try to snap easily on the tubes. Sorry for bad english


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> Try to snap easily on the tubes. Sorry for bad english


Sorry, I'm not too sure what you mean? Could you re-word it or show me what you mean?
Thank you.


----------



## Zillerella

You got two tubes on the unit. Then try to "flick" then with little force. Like when you do a smurf kick if you know what that is. A word in danish.







Then do it with little force. Better?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> You got two tubes on the unit. Then try to "flick" then with little force. Like when you do a smurf kick if you know what that is. A word in danish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then do it with little force. Better?


So, I flick the tubes to knock the bubbles yes?
Thank you mate.


----------



## Zillerella

understand me right please so nothing goes wrong. YOu know when you flick with you hand? Do it on the tubes with the thumb and middle finger. make a ring shape with the two fingers and then release the little force on the tubes. Bah I hate my english


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> understand me right please so nothing goes wrong. YOu know when you flick with you hand? Do it on the tubes with the thumb and middle finger. make a ring shape with the two fingers and then release the little force on the tubes. Bah I hate my english


You should make a video to show people how to flick lol.


----------



## Zillerella

Nah why? You don't know what I mean?







Then sorry but don't want to risk anything happens to your unit.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> Nah why? You don't know what I mean?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then sorry but don't want to risk anything happens to your unit.


I was only joking with you. I understood your second post perfectly fine.


----------



## Zillerella

haha














But if it dosent work I dont know what's work. Some people write it can be because there is not inough liquid in the unit etc.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zillerella*
> 
> haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But if it dosent work I dont know what's work. Some people write it can be because there is not inough liquid in the unit etc.


It is a shame they don't include a fill port on the Rad.


----------



## Zillerella

I can only agree with you in that







Swiftech H220 includes that + it's expandeble.


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hi, I have a H100i and I was wondering, what is the best way to make sure that any air bubbles are eaten by the pump? I had shaken the rad and tipped it upright and I heard bubbles getting thrown around in the pump.
> 
> Thanks for any suggestions!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> It is a shame they don't include a fill port on the Rad.


Last I checked that was suppose to be a sealed unit (which is why there is not a fill port) and not suppose to have air in the system. If you have air I would contact Corsair about it (could be defective) and see if you can get one RMAed to you.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> No adverse effects, that is if you don't count the sytem zeroing itself out and having to manually input all the OC settings then nope. No issues at all.


Well...there is that.








I thought you save profile was still kept though? Could be mistaken.

But if it does make you start over, the only things that should be changed are multiplier, and a couple voltage settings and the LLC settings.


----------



## Destrto

If you are installing your H100i for hte first time, you may hear bubbles gurgling through the pump. That is normal and should go away within a minute or so. If it does not, then, as Zillerlla suggested, flick the tubes in various places while it is running to see if any gets knocked loose. If the gurgling still persists, contact Corsair for an RMA.


----------



## Zillerella

Quote:


> If it does not, then, as Zillerlla suggested, flick the tubes in various places while it is running to see if any gets knocked loose. If the gurgling still persists, contact Corsair for an RMA.


As I tried to suggest with my best english


----------



## Curleyyy

In another thread that I had checked out for overclocking, I later learned that my temps are a little too high. So after deciding to reseat the h100i, as well as swapping the fans around (they were drawing air from inside the case) so that they're now drawing air from outside of the case. I ran a custom blend test again, just a quick one for thirty minutes. The results are below.

Core 1 - 71c
Core 2 - 72c
Core 3 - 70c
Core 4 - 64c

It's an i7 3770k running 100 x 36 @ 1.160v (so pretty much stock)

Which means, it's a two degree drop since my first post about the temps... So basically nothing has changed.

There's one thing I noticed when resetting the cooler. When I took the block off the CPU, the CPU bracket was loose ( http://i.imgur.com/ng5z8mz.png ) I've marked in red the parts I'm talking about. Though once I screw the block onto the bracket, everything is locked in place nice and sturdy. I'm not sure if that's what is meant to happen or not, but I don't see any other way it is meant to be.

I don't understand what's happening, why is it running so hot and how can I check that the block has 100% contact with the CPU?


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Curleyyy*
> 
> In another thread that I had checked out for overclocking, I later learned that my temps are a little too high. So after deciding to reseat the h100i, as well as swapping the fans around (they were drawing air from inside the case) so that they're now drawing air from outside of the case. I ran a custom blend test again, just a quick one for thirty minutes. The results are below.
> 
> Core 1 - 71c
> Core 2 - 72c
> Core 3 - 70c
> Core 4 - 64c
> 
> It's an i7 3770k running 100 x 36 @ 1.160v (so pretty much stock)
> 
> Which means, it's a two degree drop since my first post about the temps... So basically nothing has changed.
> 
> There's one thing I noticed when resetting the cooler. When I took the block off the CPU, the CPU bracket was loose ( http://i.imgur.com/ng5z8mz.png ) I've marked in red the parts I'm talking about. Though once I screw the block onto the bracket, everything is locked in place nice and sturdy. I'm not sure if that's what is meant to happen or not, but I don't see any other way it is meant to be.
> 
> I don't understand what's happening, why is it running so hot and how can I check that the block has 100% contact with the CPU?


Can you post some images of the inside of your rig so we can see how it is set up?

I was having some issues myself recently and now they are resolved. It would give us some better insight.


----------



## Curleyyy

Unfortunately my DSLR has been sent off for repairs, best I could do is to draw it in paint.

However this is a picture I got when I first built it (not the same camera)

http://cdn.overclock.net/e/ef/ef936dad_DSCF4153.jpeg


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Curleyyy*
> 
> Unfortunately my DSLR has been sent off for repairs, best I could do is to draw it in paint.
> 
> However this is a picture I got when I first built it (not the same camera)
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/e/ef/ef936dad_DSCF4153.jpeg


Seems like you are having something of the same issue I was.

Flip your rad so your pipes are going the other way like this: http://cdn.overclock.net/2/29/900x900px-LL-29c7949a_After.jpeg

It should help. I was having issues because the in/out pipes were sitting on the RAM which was heating them up so there was no cool coolant going though my CPU block. Also, I would reccomend pulling air in from the outside rather then pushing air out from inside your case. You could see about adding two more fans to your rad. Are you OCed at all btw?

You can look at my photos of my rig for more details on how I have my cooling system set up.


----------



## Curleyyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> Seems like you are having something of the same issue I was.
> 
> Flip your rad so your pipes are going the other way like this: http://cdn.overclock.net/2/29/900x900px-LL-29c7949a_After.jpeg
> 
> It should help. I was having issues because the in/out pipes were sitting on the RAM which was heating them up so there was no cool coolant going though my CPU block. Also, I would reccomend pulling air in from the outside rather then pushing air out from inside your case. You could see about adding two more fans to your rad. Are you OCed at all btw?
> 
> You can look at my photos of my rig for more details on how I have my cooling system set up.


Hmm, I doubt the RAM will be heating up the coolant that much, but nevertheless I'll flip the rad now and report back!

Yeah, I've already flipped the fans around, they're now pulling air from outside of the case, though the temperature didn't change, at all...

Adding more fans will have to wait, and to be honest even with just these two fans, the temperatures are staggeringly high in my opinion. I'm running the chip at 100 x 36, I think default is 100 x 35, though I can't set that. I did a test at 4.6GHz with around 1.3v and it hit the throttling point of 105c within five minutes. Which is just ridiculous.


----------



## khaosstrife

Sounds like a contact issue. The back plate should be snug and not move when you have the pins screwed down right. Also, if you are not using it use Arctic silver thermal paste. Just a little. Too much paste will have the oppsite effect. Only other thing i can think of is you have a bad unit if everything else is hooked up right.


----------



## Curleyyy

I've read in another thread and came to the conclusion if I: disable HT, lower PLL from 1.7 to 1.5, and lower CPU Capability from 140% to 100% my temperatures will lower.

The TIM fingerprint looks like this ( http://i.imgur.com/hqTPWJY.png ) so I'm guessing there's a contact issue.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Curleyyy*
> 
> I've read in another thread and came to the conclusion if I: disable HT, lower PLL from 1.7 to 1.5, and lower CPU Capability from 140% to 100% my temperatures will lower.
> 
> The TIM fingerprint looks like this ( http://i.imgur.com/hqTPWJY.png ) so I'm guessing there's a contact issue.


You should leave HT enabled and keep PPL to at least 1.68v to 1.7v. Games such as crusis 3 and battlefield show decent fps increases with HT in CPU bound areas. As for your contact, try adding a little more paste and turn the screws in the diagonal pattern so each part has equal pressure. If this does not help, you eitjer have an unlevel block or unlevel CPU IHS surface.


----------



## Curleyyy

This was a triumph.
I'm making a note here: huge success!
It's hard to overstate my satisfaction.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6ljFaKRTrI#t=8s

-giggles-

Okay!! So with the same settings in the BIOS and in Prime95, I'm now running around 58c to 63c, instead of 86c+, which is great! With all of the helpful posts I received, I managed to get the temperatures to drop about ten degrees, then after making sure the contact between the block and the CPU were nice and solid, it lowered by twenty degrees or more, to a normal(ish) temp. Now all that is left to do is to get a fresh batch of TIM, reapply it and see a further decrease in temp. Though that will be in the coming days. Thank you to everyone who helped out, much appreciated n_n


----------



## InvalidUserID

Bleh. First H100 apparently died last night after only five months of (non 24/7) use.

Woke computer up from sleeping, went to feed my fish and came back to it off. Thought it was weird, went to restart. Would stay on shorter and shorter amount of time, 10 seconds then 5 then only a few. Let it go until this morning, would almost get to Windows safe mode and then turn off.

Tried a new PSU, same issue. Let it cool off, got into Windows and got an overheating notice so shut it down. Felt the block and tubes, couldn't feel any vibrations and everything was cool to the touch, nothing warm.

Hope they get my RMA approved quick. Should I request for a H100i?


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Curleyyy*
> 
> This was a triumph.
> I'm making a note here: huge success!
> It's hard to overstate my satisfaction.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6ljFaKRTrI#t=8s
> 
> -giggles-
> 
> Okay!! So with the same settings in the BIOS and in Prime95, I'm now running around 58c to 63c, instead of 86c+, which is great! With all of the helpful posts I received, I managed to get the temperatures to drop about ten degrees, then after making sure the contact between the block and the CPU were nice and solid, it lowered by twenty degrees or more, to a normal(ish) temp. Now all that is left to do is to get a fresh batch of TIM, reapply it and see a further decrease in temp. Though that will be in the coming days. Thank you to everyone who helped out, much appreciated n_n


I'm glade we could help









Stop by any time you need anything and have fun!


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InvalidUserID*
> 
> Bleh. First H100 apparently died last night after only five months of (non 24/7) use.
> 
> Woke computer up from sleeping, went to feed my fish and came back to it off. Thought it was weird, went to restart. Would stay on shorter and shorter amount of time, 10 seconds then 5 then only a few. Let it go until this morning, would almost get to Windows safe mode and then turn off.
> 
> Tried a new PSU, same issue. Let it cool off, got into Windows and got an overheating notice so shut it down. Felt the block and tubes, couldn't feel any vibrations and everything was cool to the touch, nothing warm.
> 
> Hope they get my RMA approved quick. Should I request for a H100i?


You will most likely get the newer model unless they have a refurb in stock. Wont hurt to ask though.


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> cleaning out your rad and adding pull fans. pull fans helping by2-3*C. that rad must have been packed to allow no airflow because exhaust to intake wouldnt account for more than 10*C? the water lines resting on top of the ram sticks would do nothing to add heat unless there was so much pressure as to kink the lines almost closed.
> 
> can you get a screen shot of p95 running for an hour? i would like to see how your temps compare to other bd temps on p95 load. amazing that folding doesnt stress the cpu the same or as much.


So I am running Prime95 64-bit and I am getting a few odd errors.

On Cores 5, 7, and 8 I get this message:

FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4
Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file

This is the same message for the 3 cores. Any thoughts?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> This was unnecessary as we had both moved passed this subject...Thanks though...*rolls eyes*


Excuse me for agreeing with the fellow making an accurate assessment, and disagreeing with the one who didn't bother doing any research and made a ridiculous claim.


----------



## khaosstrife

Since i seem to be the start of this little debate let me explain two things. One is all i have are the gauges on my mobo, accurate or not that's what they read. Second is it's about 60F where my rig sits. in the mean time, I'm not here for a right and wrong debate. I'm here to get my rig running more stable, learn more, and give back.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> So I am running Prime95 64-bit and I am getting a few odd errors.
> 
> On Cores 5, 7, and 8 I get this message:
> 
> FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4
> Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file
> 
> This is the same message for the 3 cores. Any thoughts?


*A few odd errors??? ... AYKM







*

Your computer is UNSTABLE ...
I recommend you read all my previous posts ...


----------



## khaosstrife

I realized a few things after i posted this and did more research. I'm still looking for the sweet spot for my v core. went up to 1.28 and i stopped getting errors just lock ups after 10 mins of the torture test. Went to 1.3 and locks up shortly after running the test. So it's going to just take me some time to find the right vcore settings


----------



## pc-illiterate

i can remember 3 things i have to post about.
your 3770k is hotter than most others because it isnt delidded. that can greatly reduce the temps of any ivy bridge. most people overclocking their ivies on this forum have delidded because intel sucked the big one on the tim and silicon adhesive.
dont bother with arctic silver. if you buy a new tube, buy some prolimatech pk-1 or 'whoever' mx-4
ram will NOT heat up the water/coolant in any tube. it doesnt generate that much heat at all.


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i can remember 3 things i have to post about.
> your 3770k is hotter than most others because it isnt delidded. that can greatly reduce the temps of any ivy bridge. most people overclocking their ivies on this forum have delidded because intel sucked the big one on the tim and silicon adhesive.
> dont bother with arctic silver. if you buy a new tube, buy some prolimatech pk-1 or 'whoever' mx-4
> ram will NOT heat up the water/coolant in any tube. it doesnt generate that much heat at all.


You do realize he is using a H100i right?

Also, have you actually grabbed a hold of a piece of RAM that was still active?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i can remember 3 things i have to post about.
> your 3770k is hotter than most others because it isnt delidded. that can greatly reduce the temps of any ivy bridge. most people overclocking their ivies on this forum have delidded because intel sucked the big one on the tim and silicon adhesive.
> dont bother with arctic silver. if you buy a new tube, buy some prolimatech pk-1 or 'whoever' mx-4
> ram will NOT heat up the water/coolant in any tube. it doesnt generate that much heat at all.


I haven't counted or done a poll or anything, but I would be willing to bet that "most people" overclocking their ivy bridge cpu have not delidded (unless you have some evidence we haven't seen). In fact, since an Ivy Bridge i7 is so expensive, and delidding voids the warranty, I bet the actual number of people _in this thread_ who have delidded them is pretty small. I could be wrong, but I haven't seen any large number of people here saying otherwise.

Also, there's nothing wrong with Arctic Silver. It's actually one of the best TIMs you can get, right up there with the best of them. Yeah, there's a cure time, but it's only for a few degrees. It's not like you're going to get a 5c improvement after curing it for a week, but only a few degrees (like 1-3c). I use the stuff all the time and it's quite excellent.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62

In that comprehensive article, Arctic Silver is tied with Shin-Etsu MicroSi G751, which is one of the best TIMs you can get (of course, that's after curing time for the AS5).

Here's another comparison:

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Thermal-Compound-Roundup-February-2012/1490/5

But the truth is that there are a lot of great TIMs out there now (including MX-4), so there's a lot of choice. AS5 has been a great choice for a number of years, and nothing has changed to make it otherwise. Basically, if all you have available is AS5 I wouldn't recommend ordering in something else. Running your computer for a week will fully cure the AS5. If a person is in big rush for the best temps or something, then I would recommend Shin-etsu since it is actually a little better than MX-4, and also doesn't require any curing time. If you're going to special order TIM, you might as well special order the best (Shin-etsu). Personally, I have no issue with the curing time required for AS5.


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> *A few odd errors??? ... AYKM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> Your computer is UNSTABLE ...
> I recommend you read all my previous posts ...


Running stable at 4.1GHz now. IBT runs flawlessly. Will try Prime95 later. Adjusted my FSB, HT, VCore, Disabled Turbo, disabled CPU/VGA spread spectrum, disabled EPU savings, and went full manual. If Prime95 goes without fail, going to go for 4.2GHz. My goal is 4.5GHz for now. Still running cool wiht the H100. Depending on what you look at: 35c (CPU Probe) and 18c (Package Probe) at idle. I am told the package temp is what I am suppose to look at for my CPU core temp.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> Running stable at 4.1GHz now. IBT runs flawlessly. Will try Prime95 later. Adjusted my FSB, HT, VCore, Disabled Turbo, disabled CPU/VGA spread spectrum, disabled EPU savings, and went full manual. If Prime95 goes without fail, going to go for 4.2GHz. My goal is 4.5GHz for now. Still running cool wiht the H100. Depending on what you look at: 35c (CPU Probe) and 18c (Package Probe) at idle. I am told the package temp is what I am suppose to look at for my CPU core temp.


Very Good, yours has been an interesting journey ...








More tips on P95 and overclocking posting protocol post#22784 *HERE* ...
So you can get concise and accurate information/opinion from guys that have been down your road many times before. Forget all that "package" confusion and at the very least just post a "screenie" of RealTemp under load (P95 minimum 1hr) with the watts reading activated instead of the timer etc. Just doing a quick Standard setting 5-10 run with IBT would not be sufficient to deem your overclock stable by most experienced overclockers


----------



## Tater00nuts

Just installed an H100i in my Antec 900. Well, not really "in" I guess...


----------



## neDav

H50 inside an HP Slimline. Air comes in one side and straight out the other.

http://s206.photobucket.com/user/vrhymer/media/Slimline2.jpg.html

http://s206.photobucket.com/user/vrhymer/media/Slimline1.jpg.html


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neDav*
> 
> H50 inside an HP Slimline. Air comes in one side and straight out the other.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s206.photobucket.com/user/vrhymer/media/Slimline2.jpg.html
> 
> http://s206.photobucket.com/user/vrhymer/media/Slimline1.jpg.html


I think that is just the niftiest thing..


----------



## aas88keyz

Just added a h100 to my main rig and moved the previous H80 to my 2nd rig. Got the H100 on clearance for $65. Was not an open box. Added H80 fans for push/pull. as a result I am folding at 51*C on medium setting compared to the previous H80 folding at 59*C on high. 8*C improvement for sig rig at 4.514GHz. I have no reason to overclock further as 4.5GHz is a nice round number and cooling over performance is more important to me right now and I got the perfect balance. Might be hard to believe but I also freed up enough room to add 4 more case fans once I got the h80 out of the way. so not only has the cpu core is a lot cooler but the case as a whole is cooling a lot better. Folding has never been so fun for me.

Keep on foldin'!


----------



## Erick Silver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neDav*
> 
> H50 inside an HP Slimline. Air comes in one side and straight out the other.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s206.photobucket.com/user/vrhymer/media/Slimline2.jpg.html
> 
> http://s206.photobucket.com/user/vrhymer/media/Slimline1.jpg.html


Like above, that is nifty! Especially since I have work on a HP Slimline and there is not alot of room in there. Not only that but the AMD Processor that the one I had with the LGA775 cooler was a total mindscrew. It came like that from the factory. AMD socket with Intel cooling.....


----------



## neDav

Yeah, the cooler and fans, took up the whole HDD/ODD bay, I have to use a 2.5" drive. I got tired of mid/full tower machines. Right now i'm into small form factor machines.

My next project (whenever I get around to it), will be the same as this, but with GTX570/580/660/670/680 or HD7950/7970, lenght of the card(s) will be a determining factor. I will probably have to do a custom loop, as I will need to use a dual 92mm radiator.


----------



## Tater00nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neDav*
> 
> Yeah, the cooler and fans, took up the whole HDD/ODD bay, I have to use a 2.5" drive. I got tired of mid/full tower machines. Right now i'm into small form factor machines.
> 
> My next project (whenever I get around to it), will be the same as this, but with GTX570/580/660/670/680 or HD7950/7970, lenght of the card(s) will be a determining factor. I will probably have to do a custom loop, as I will need to use a dual 92mm radiator.


Probably already saw this but:

https://www.asus.com/Graphics_Cards/GTX670DCMOC2GD5/


----------



## neDav

Ooh.., nice. It will definitely be an option. I haven't seen that before. I been out of the loop for a while. Unemployment is a mother.....


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neDav*
> 
> Ooh.., nice. It will definitely be an option. I haven't seen that before. I been out of the loop for a while. Unemployment is a mother.....


There are lots of new, and newer models of cards that have a smaller form factor now.


----------



## NorKris

So Guys, i have a question for u... my Brother claims that if his GPU / Or ANY GPU hits 50-60c while Running a game he will notice a performance drop, and that this is normal... whaytu guys think of that?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> So Guys, i have a question for u... my Brother claims that if his GPU / Or ANY GPU hits 50-60c while Running a game he will notice a performance drop, and that this is normal... whaytu guys think of that?


Cards like the 670, 680, and 690 throttle when they go over 70c. I am not aware of any cards that throttle at as low of a temp as 50 or 60c. When they throttle they only drop 13 mhz so it is not a huge deal or anything.

He could be experiencing an unstable oc, some cards are able to handle a higher oc at lower temps. Maybe his oc is becoming unstable at those temps.


----------



## NorKris

its a 670 windforce not overclocked


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> its a 670 windforce not overclocked


A 670 will throttle over 70c, if it does it below that then something may be wrong with the card. If it is not oced, you can at least raise the power target up to allow the card to use more if needed.

I would suggest having Precision X or afterburner up with the monitoring window. Then play the game(s) that cause issues. A screen shot of the monitor window can help figure out what is going on. You can post that info in a new thread in the Nvidia section or ask in the 670 owners thread.


----------



## NorKris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> A 670 will throttle over 70c, if it does it below that then something may be wrong with the card. If it is not oced, you can at least raise the power target up to allow the card to use more if needed.
> 
> I would suggest having Precision X or afterburner up with the monitoring window. Then play the game(s) that cause issues. A screen shot of the monitor window can help figure out what is going on. You can post that info in a new thread in the Nvidia section or ask in the 670 owners thread.


70c? i would say 85-95 .. or?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> 70c? i would say 85-95 .. or?


First throttle point is 70c.

Take a look at this thread:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1265110/the-gtx-670-overclocking-master-guide
"If the card gets too hot, then the Kepler Boost value will be throttled down below its true maximum in 13MHz increments. The first thermal throttle point is at 70C, then 80C, then 85C and lastly at 95C."


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> So Guys, i have a question for u... my Brother claims that if his GPU / Or ANY GPU hits 50-60c while Running a game he will notice a performance drop, and that this is normal... whaytu guys think of that?


Wrong forum ... but it's an interesting question? ... Also hard to answer with your lack of details, ie. GPU model? (H2o?) max overclock or stock? How much and/or what kind of a performance drop? etc.... 50-60c I find arguable unless he's running Max clocks w/H2o ...

Here's what I know ... with my reference 570 and all other previous Nvidia GPU's I've owned (built), I did see a "measurable" performance drop in OCCT GPU Tests for errors when finding my MAX stable clocks, when temps rose above 65c (sometimes 70c) and I always set my fan profiles to try and prevent this. The newer GPU's are made to run Hot, 85c all day long and be stable, but I also so a slight (1-2FPM) drop in Crysis Bench(s) when the temps got that high, and also a very slight drop in Unigine Heaven. Additionally, at max clocks I could see minor artifacting in Furmark when the temps got to 80-85c as opposed to 65c ...

So *depending on his setup* ... I think that someone who really understands his components and overclocking "could" notice some performance degradation but nothing I'd worry about at those temps if your just measuring FPS









EDIT: ... ooops walked away from the screen and didn't see all the answer's ...
which I "obviously" agree with








NICE LINK Justin, I'm smarter than I thought I was ... HeeHee


----------



## NorKris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Wrong forum ... but it's an interesting question? ... Also hard to answer with your lack of details, ie. GPU model? (H2o?) max overclock or stock? How much and/or what kind of a performance drop? etc.... 50-60c I find arguable unless he's running Max clocks w/H2o ...
> 
> Here's what I know ... with my reference 570 and all other previous Nvidia GPU's I've owned (built), I did see a "measurable" performance drop in OCCT GPU Tests for errors when finding my MAX stable clocks, when temps rose above 65c (sometimes 70c) and I always set my fan profiles to try and prevent this. The newer GPU's are made to run Hot, 85c all day long and be stable, but I also so a slight (1-2FPM) drop in Crysis Bench(s) when the temps got that high, and also a very slight drop in Unigine Heaven. Additionally, at max clocks I could see minor artifacting in Furmark when the temps got to 80-85c as opposed to 65c ...
> 
> So *depending on his setup* ... I think that someone who really understands his components and overclocking "could" notice some performance degradation but nothing I'd worry about at those temps if your just measuring FPS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: ... ooops walked away from the screen and didn't see all the answer's ...
> which I "obviously" agree with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NICE LINK Justin, I'm smarter than I thought I was ... HeeHee


know its kinda wrong thread














but all of u have graphics cards and is doing oc's and stuff soo


----------



## BradleyW

Hey, wondering if someone could help. My H100i water block as become discoloured and alcohol rub won't clean it up at all. It does not seem to be affecting performance.
Any idea's?
Thank you.


----------



## Samurai707

Oxidation?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> Oxidation?


Well, it was out of the box for 1 week in the attic.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hey, wondering if someone could help. My H100i water block as become discoloured and alcohol rub won't clean it up at all. It does not seem to be affecting performance.
> Any idea's?
> Thank you.


Don't know what is causing your discoloration, but when I used CLU on my H100i I used metal polish to completely remove any trace of it. Takes time, but it works. Might help with your issue. Here is what I used:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hey, wondering if someone could help. My H100i water block as become discoloured and alcohol rub won't clean it up at all. It does not seem to be affecting performance.
> Any idea's?
> Thank you.


Like this...



To clean this pump up I used 3000 (2000 will work also) sandpaper and it came right off. Just takes a few seconds and it looks good as new again


----------



## Samurai707

I'd reach for my H80/H100 right now but I'm lazy and it's out of reach... both of mine have the greenish copper oxidation on them... Almost like an old penny would get (but it's only a little bit discolored, not like the whole plate.). I don't think it's anything to worry about.

Wanna take a picture for us if it's not in use?


----------



## DUpgrade

Believe it or not good old Coca Cola will remove tarnish from copper. There's a ton of other uses for it as well as a cleaning agent. If alcohol doesn't make the surface clean enough you're going to have to find alternatives. Another thing you could try is this stuff called Bar Keepers Friend which is a white powder/compound you mix with a little water and use a dobie sponge or soft cloth to work it in and then clean it off with water. After doing that I would follow up with alcohol just to make sure everything is very dried out before applying your TIM. Good luck and post before/after pics.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

After no luck with Ebuyer, I posted on the Corsair forums and RAMGUY replied asking me to request an RMA.

A few days later UPS turned up to collect the faulty unit and a few days after that a replacement turned up.

Haven't installed it yet because I'm waiting on a new case to turn up.


----------



## GoldenTree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> Like this...
> 
> 
> 
> To clean this pump up I used 3000 (2000 will work also) sandpaper and it came right off. Just takes a few seconds and it looks good as new again


How would it become that way anyway


----------



## cravinmild

IDK, just what It looked like when I took it off. I figure its heat from running it on a gpu with IHS removed, it was fine when cooling a cpu. Its never effected the temps at all. 16c-26 idle and 48c loads on a 580gtx for gaming and such. The pump was mounted for over a year on a gpu before removing it to Re-Tim.

Like I said, few whips with some sandpaper and it was shinny as ever. Its back on the gpu and works great


----------



## D-an-W

Morning folks, I am just in the process of rebuild my main PC with some updated hardware (GA-Z77X-UD5H, i7 2600K) along with the H80i and two Noctua NF-F12 fans.

I have to have them pulling air from inside the case to the outside through the H80i but I won't be doing anything but some basic OC'ing on the CPU so hopefully that is ok?

Can I also ask, is it ok to connect the two fans together via a Y splitter and use the motherboard CPU Fan (PWM) connection as the system will be mainly used to run OSX and I am not too concerned about using the Corsair software to control things?

I have used this setup with NF-P12 fans and a TRUE120 for some time on older hardware (GA-EP45-UD3P, Q9650) with great results.

Thanks for the advice.


----------



## Zillerella

Quote:


> Morning folks, I am just in the process of rebuild my main PC with some updated hardware (GA-Z77X-UD5H, i7 2600K) along with the H80i and two Noctua NF-F12 fans.


Why not wait for haswell? and you should be fine like that setup you want to do.

The last with the Y-splitter I don't know anything about


----------



## D-an-W

The hardware came from a friend of mine who is a RAID freak and it wouldn't work with his setup so I got it to play with...


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D-an-W*
> 
> Morning folks, I am just in the process of rebuild my main PC with some updated hardware (GA-Z77X-UD5H, i7 2600K) along with the H80i and two Noctua NF-F12 fans.
> 
> I have to have them pulling air from inside the case to the outside through the H80i but I won't be doing anything but some basic OC'ing on the CPU so hopefully that is ok?
> 
> Can I also ask, is it ok to connect the two fans together via a Y splitter and use the motherboard CPU Fan (PWM) connection as the system will be mainly used to run OSX and I am not too concerned about using the Corsair software to control things?
> 
> I have used this setup with NF-P12 fans and a TRUE120 for some time on older hardware (GA-EP45-UD3P, Q9650) with great results.
> Thanks for the advice.


You can push case air through a rad if need be, but it is always best to have outside air being pushed through the rad into the case. I use the included y splitter on my NF-F12 fans plugged into a pwm header and it works fine.


----------



## D-an-W

I suppose I could turn the front two 80mm case fans round and have them pulling air out. I didn't really want to do it this way as the are towards the bottom of the front but if the H80i is better drawing in air I might have to...


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> You can push case air through a rad if need be, *but it is always best* to have outside air being pushed through the rad into the case. I use the included y splitter on my NF-F12 fans plugged into a pwm header and it works fine.


It is always Best??? ... Not necessarily so depending on your setup, many in this forum would disagree for reasons previously discussed, ie. ... Type of case and case ventilation setup, are GPU card(s) clocked and dumping hot air into the case or ventilated out the back? Is your CPU max overclocked and the 2c-4c difference in an intake vs exhaust setup worth the gain while your motherboard/ram and GPU(s) suffer because of less than "Perfect" case ventilation?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D-an-W*
> 
> I suppose I could turn the front two 80mm case fans round and have them pulling air out. I didn't really want to do it this way as the are towards the bottom of the front but if the H80i is better drawing in air I might have to...


DanW it would help greatly to know your "total" system specs (see sig). But I'm guessing here that if you only have 2 80mm fans for case circulation that you do not have a classic overclockers case with optimal case air flow. If as you stated your only going to be doing a "mild" OC and the main purpose is to run OSX (only?), you'll be fine running the H80i in a Rear? Exhaust configuration ... actually with your set-up I'd argue you'd be better off with an exhaust config because of the heat build up you'll get in your case with only 2-80mm fans for circulation in an "Intake" config


----------



## JohntechUsa

Hello All first post here just thought I would comment on your statements:
Quote:


> It is always Best??? ... Not necessarily so and many in this forum would disagree for many reasons previously discussed, ie. ?'s for DanW below Type of case and case ventilation setup, are GPU card(s) clocked and dumping hot air into the case or ventilated out the back? Is your CPU max overclocked and the 2c-4c difference in an intake vs exhaust setup worth the gain while your motherboard/ram and GPU(s) suffer because of less than "Perfect" case ventilation?


I have to to both agree and dissagree with you in that it really depends on the case and how the system is setup. IE if you have a case with above average cooling options then you will have more options But for best cooling on one of the watter based coolers is having cool clean air blowing over the radiator will yeild the best results. However if you have a case that does not have vents in the top of the case for example it may cause more heat on the other system compnents and in that situation then it may be best to have the CPU temp a little hotter and exaust the Case Air. But in this situation I would encourage a different case when its possible.

One thing I do that is inexpensive and easy to do with a new build is go to the hardware store and purchase an outside thermometor and put the probe in side your case and check for hot spots and arrange the fans accordingly to get the best over all case cooling it takes a few days but on avaeage I can lower the inside case temp by 3-10 deg C and thus lower my system temps and its a 10.00 USD part rather than using a FLUKE meter(100.00 USD) with probes that cost 20.00 a piece.


----------



## justanoldman

In and of itself it is obviously better to have cold outside air being used on your rad, then hot case air, not sure why anyone would argue that point. But you are correct that you should design your cooling to make sure there is adequate venting options for the case air. This is ocn after all, I don’t know why anyone wouldn’t just test both in their particular case.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D-an-W*
> 
> Morning folks, I am just in the process of rebuild my main PC with some updated hardware (GA-Z77X-UD5H, i7 2600K) along with the H80i and two Noctua NF-F12 fans.
> 
> I have to have them pulling air from inside the case to the outside through the H80i but I won't be doing anything but some basic OC'ing on the CPU so hopefully that is ok?
> 
> Can I also ask, is it ok to connect the two fans together via a Y splitter and use the motherboard CPU Fan (PWM) connection as the system will be mainly used to run OSX and I am not too concerned about using the Corsair software to control things?
> 
> I have used this setup with NF-P12 fans and a TRUE120 for some time on older hardware (GA-EP45-UD3P, Q9650) with great results.
> 
> Thanks for the advice.


Yep, using a PWM splitter is a great way to control the fans. My first AIO water cooler was an H70, and I used it the same way. I have an H100 now, and since my main board has two CPU_FAN headers, I still allow my motherboard to control the fans. This is a great way to control the noise level when the system is under light or no load. Right now my 1900 RPM Scythe Slipstream fans are running at 480 RPM.

***Also, not to confuse the issue or anything, but make sure you get a PWM splitter that has the tac wire removed from the second fan connector. Some splitters will connect the tac wire from both fans to the motherboard and this makes it almost impossible to get an accurate RPM signal and so can cause erratic control. I can post a picture if you need one. If you do get one with all four wires connected to both fans, just cut one of the tac wires from one of the fan connectors on the splitter. (don't cut the PWM control line though).

I have to say I agree with TomcatV and JohntechUsa regarding exhaust vs intake.

Using exhaust instead of intake is generally fine. I always use exhaust myself as it only makes a couple of degrees difference, and can actually cool the case interior (again, only by a couple of degrees). Also consider, if your video card(s) exhaust inside your case, you may not want to draw that hot air into your H80. However, if your video card(s) exhaust out the back of the case (like mine do), then using the H80 as exhaust would be fine and will avoid pulling the hot video card exhaust back inside your case through the H80.

Please note. This has been tested in this very thread (more than once). The temperature difference between using exhaust and intake on an all-in-one water cooler has been shown to only be 1 to 2 degrees C. This goes for both the CPU and the case internal temperature. However, I don't think it was tested with video cards under full load, which goes back to my previous comment regarding the exhaust of your video card(s).

Here's an example of the two types of video card exhausts:

http://www.overclock.net/t/831636/official-corsair-graphite-club/2010#post_13976813


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> In and of itself it is obviously better to have cold outside air being used on your rad, then hot case air, not sure why anyone would argue that point. But you are correct that you should design your cooling to make sure there is adequate venting options for the case air. This is ocn after all, I don't know why anyone wouldn't just test both in their particular case.


It's true pushing cooler air through radiator is the best. In certain conditions, pulling cooler air from outside might give negative effect to the overall cooling. Remember the cooler air was use to remove the heat from radiator & this means dumping hot air inside the case. If poor air flow inside the case, it will only heat up the VRMs/GPU/motherboard. Like Mergatroid said, not to forget if GPU(s) dumping hot air inside the case too. I would think if you can intake at the front (e.g. 2 x 120mm) & bottom (e.g. 1 or 2 x 120mm) and exhaust at the back, then intake on the radiator up top might work well. Ambient also play major role too. If you live in >34C ambient, then I would suggest avoid intake on the radiator, especially if it's located up top.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

I have a quick question about the H80i (my Google Fu can't find the answer). Can I use this cooler without the USB cable and the Corsair Link software? I prefer to use my external fan controller. Also, I won't plug the fans into the pump because they need to go to the fan controller. So I can I skip connecting the SATA power cable, and just use the 4-pin?


----------



## D-an-W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoneTomorrow*
> 
> I have a quick question about the H80i (my Google Fu can't find the answer). Can I use this cooler without the USB cable and the Corsair Link software? I prefer to use my external fan controller. Also, I won't plug the fans into the pump because they need to go to the fan controller. So I can I skip connecting the SATA power cable, and just use the 4-pin?


I have only just installed mine but AFAIK you have to connect the SATA power cable to run the pump. You don't need the USB connection either unless you want to use the software.

I use Noctua fans from a PWM header and so far it's the quietest PC I have ever built!


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoneTomorrow*
> 
> I have a quick question about the H80i (my Google Fu can't find the answer). Can I use this cooler without the USB cable and the Corsair Link software? I prefer to use my external fan controller. Also, I won't plug the fans into the pump because they need to go to the fan controller. So I can I skip connecting the SATA power cable, and just use the 4-pin?


You must use the Sata power the 4 pin is just for your CPU fan header (tricks BIOS to use pump speed for RPM) so will need to disable the CPU fan or it may error. The other fans can be run independently and USB is only for Corsair Link it doesn't serve any other purpose. Why the "i" version if you don't want to use any features?


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D-an-W*
> 
> I have only just installed mine but AFAIK you have to connect the SATA power cable to run the pump. You don't need the USB connection either unless you want to use the software.
> 
> I use Noctua fans from a PWM header and so far it's the quietest PC I have ever built!


Excellent, just what I need to know. I think the annoyingly short SATA power cable will be a pain. I've got some Silverstone FM121s to replace them.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> You must use the Sata power the 4 pin is just for your CPU fan header (tricks BIOS to use pump speed for RPM) so will need to disable the CPU fan or it may error. The other fans can be run independently and USB is only for Corsair Link it doesn't serve any other purpose. Why the "i" version if you don't want to use any features?


I may want to use those features in future builds, plusd it's only ~$10 more than the H80. I was just checking before ordering.


----------



## waslakhani

How should I start this. Last night my computer made some weird noises few seconds later my computer all of a sudden shut down. I then check the inside of my compute and my H100i has a leak inside of it. My H100i has a leak in it and I have no way to check if my computer is working or not. I filed a RMA last night. What should I do about my computer.


----------



## InvalidUserID

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waslakhani*
> 
> How should I start this. Last night my computer made some weird noises few seconds later my computer all of a sudden shut down. I then check the inside of my compute and my H100i has a leak inside of it. My H100i has a leak in it and I have no way to check if my computer is working or not. I filed a RMA last night. What should I do about my computer.


The computer likely shut down due to the H100i not being able to keep it cool. It likely got too hot and shut itself down.

Since you'll have to remove the H100i anyways to send the RMA in, you can call Corsair and see if they can send you one in the meantime so that you minimize downtime. If you have a spare cooler, you can throw that on. If you're like me and worry about if it'll still work, let it cool down and then start it up into BIOS for a minute.

My H100 went out two weeks or so ago and while I didn't have a leak, my rig did shut itself down. It would let me get into BIOS until it got too hot and would shut down again. Threw on the replacement H100i and it's all good now. I wouldn't worry if I were you.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waslakhani*
> 
> How should I start this. Last night my computer made some weird noises few seconds later my computer all of a sudden shut down. I then check the inside of my compute and my H100i has a leak inside of it. My H100i has a leak in it and I have no way to check if my computer is working or not. I filed a RMA last night. What should I do about my computer.


Take a look inside your case for any wet spot. Take pictures to the leak point & any other components in your computer that make contact with the liquid. It will be useful when claiming RMA.

Then disassemble your computer, dry all of the components using paper towels until you can't see any wet spot. Then air dry the component for at least 24 hours. You also can put in a bowl full of rice (un-cook). It will help dry the components faster. You also can use rubbing alcohol to removed any lingering moisture. Then let them air dry for 2 - 3 days, just to make sure. When you confident all components already dry, assemble them, using stock cooler for now. Now you can test if any of the components are damaged. Email to corsair. I'm sure they will help you out.

Good luck.


----------



## Mergatroid

If I was you I would contact [email protected] and tell him what happened. Get pictures and email them to him. Make arrangements with him for what he suggests you do. He may want you to send hm components or your entir PC. If the leak is caused by a factory defect, Corsair will make things right. Do this asap. If you think you want to try drying your hardware first, in my profession as an electroics tech for 20 years I have always used a hair dryer to dry the water as fast as possible witout damaging the board. Very often, if tis is done before any component get a chance to corrode, your components will work fine.


----------



## ViTosS

Hey guys, are the Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition fans good for using 4 in push n' pull in my H100i? I want silence and good overall cooling capacity, but if the High Performance ones can be quiet as the Quiet Editions I will buy them.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViTosS*
> 
> Hey guys, are the Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition fans good for using 4 in push n' pull in my H100i? I want silence and good overall cooling capacity, but if the High Performance ones can be quiet as the Quiet Editions I will buy them.


The SP120 Quiets are going to more quiet than the SP120 PE. You can make the performance ones more quiet by using the 12v to 7v adapter but that just lowers your RPM down to what a quiet will run full speed. You'll sacrifice a few degrees to use the quiet over performance but it all depends on how much you want to hear them.


----------



## Vulpix

Are Corsair hydro coolers not very popular? This threads seems kinda inactive, I'm currently looking at the H80i for my 650D case.


----------



## ScottyP

I ordered my new haswell system, and I picked the h100i, but I'm super paranoid about leaking, lol..

I'm just a paranoid person in general.


----------



## waslakhani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScottyP*
> 
> I ordered my new haswell system, and I picked the h100i, but I'm super paranoid about leaking, lol..
> 
> I'm just a paranoid person in general.


Don't worry man I learned that the liquid is non conductive and nothing happened. It is a great cooler.


----------



## DUpgrade

Considering the newer Corsair CLCs are using rubber tubing instead of corrugated plastic tubing, leaks are not likely. I run my H80i 24/7 for months without any issue so far.


----------



## ScottyP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waslakhani*
> 
> Don't worry man I learned that the liquid is non conductive and nothing happened. It is a great cooler.


Good to hear your leak didn't damage anything







I read your post up a bit, before your reply and it added to my paranoia








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Considering the newer Corsair CLCs are using rubber tubing instead of corrugated plastic tubing, leaks are not likely. I run my H80i 24/7 for months without any issue so far.


Yeah, I'm just paranoid about it cause it's my frist custom built PC and have never had any experience with anything water cooling lol.

I picked the h100i, because it's a lot more awesome looking than the big ugly noctua stuff


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vulpix*
> 
> Are Corsair hydro coolers not very popular? This threads seems kinda inactive, I'm currently looking at the H80i for my 650D case.


Funny you would post that at this time, I've been active in this thread for over 1.5 years and even at 2300 pages I'd never seen this thread go dark, and only occasionally, for more than 24-48 hours. I guess you could attribute the recent inactivity to customer satisfaction and the wealth of problem solving info/answer's that you find by searching this thread's previous posts. The Corsair Hydro Series are by far and away the most popular AIO unit's out there for years. And because of Corsair's CS and very competitive warranty programs I don't see them loosing the Industry lead anytime soon









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScottyP*
> 
> Good to hear your leak didn't damage anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I read your post up a bit, before your reply and it added to my paranoia
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I'm just paranoid about it cause it's my frist custom built PC and have never had any experience with anything water cooling lol.
> 
> I picked the h100i, because it's a lot more awesome looking than the big ugly noctua stuff


Leaks have happened in the past but they are so rare I really believe it's a non-issue, additionally if you are one of the unlucky few, Corsair will cover any damage to your other components with the proper documentation









IMHO you made a fine choice in choosing the H100i over the "Classic" D-14. I, and like many in this thread, were previous "old school" owners of the "Venerable" D-14 and none of us would ever go back to the Behemoth Air Coolers of days past. The H100(i) vs D-14 debate has been beaten to death so I won't go into it here ... again







... but for "Real World" user experience and why many of us switched you could do a search of this thread just using Noctua D-14 or Noctua NH-D14. Depending on your "Setup" and overclocking aggressiveness you'll find that the H100i slightly outperforms the D-14 with slightly more noise ... but all the other benefits of mobo access and overall cooler running components in your case can't be matched by the D-14









*HERE* is another in house thread discussion, most I agree with but one I don't, I do not know why Guru3D's review *HERE* OC load numbers show the D14 outperforming the H100i when most reviews and More Importantly "Real World" users like us in this thread have experienced the opposite. In most OC situations, I found my H100 to outperform my D-14 by 1c-2c degrees under load with the fans at a tolerable noise level (Low-Med). And by all reviews and user input the H100i "generally" outperforms the H100 by 3c-4c ... sooo his review load graph's don't make sense to me UNLESS it's because Hilbert does all his testing on an "open bench"


----------



## Vulpix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Funny you would post that at this time, I've been active in this thread for over 1.5 years and even at 2300 pages I'd never seen this thread go dark, and only occasionally, for more than 24-48 hours. I guess you could attribute the recent inactivity to customer satisfaction and the wealth of problem solving info/answer's that you find by searching this thread's previous posts. The Corsair Hydro Series are by far and away the most popular AIO unit's out there for years. And because of Corsair's CS and very competitive warranty programs I don't see them loosing the Industry lead anytime soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leaks have happened in the past but they are so rare I really believe it's a non-issue, additionally if you are one of the unlucky few, Corsair will cover any damage to your other components with the proper documentation


Well, the thread was dead for a week, while I noticed other brands are still on the first page. I'm doing some research on enclosed water cooling units and was curious, thus my post. I've decided on the H80i since I like the way it looks and the performance looks great.

That said, I can't wait to replace my D14. I am so sick of that thing cutting me with its fins whenever I want remove the fans for cleaning or when I want to do some cable management work.


----------



## Mergatroid

Yeah, this has been a pretty steady thread for a few years. True that it has slowed a bit over the last week or so, but stuff happens. Almost 2300 pages can't be wrong....


----------



## D-an-W

I just installed the H80i in my old faithful Lian-Li PC-7 USB case, I used Noctua NF-F12 fans controlled via the motherboard and couldn't be happier with the noise levels (It doesn't really make any!).


----------



## Vulpix

Has anyone used these Noctua fans: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=54&lng=en

I was wondering if it's possible to use a H90 with these fans, with a 120mm opening for my casing.


----------



## Zillerella

Quote:


> was wondering if it's possible to use a H90 with these fans, with a 120mm opening for my casing.


It should be possible, because it's uses standard 120mm holes. Just make sure that you got 140mm in height and 150 in width


----------



## mokmoki

i've been using my H100i for 3 months now, and the pump has been running silently *up until today.*

i was running my stock fans on the "Performance" profile for a couple of days recently, because I just setup my GTX670 SLI, so i wanted the unit to exhaust as much air as possible.

then today i had to concentrate on my work so i turned down the fans from "Performance" profile to "Quiet" profile. then i heard the noise. i thought at first that it was one of my fans that was loose. but after re-attaching all of my fans, the noise was still there.

i removed the pump and confirmed that it was indeed the pump that is causing the noise. it doesn't matter whether there are fans attached to the pump or not, as soon as the power is turned on, i can hear the pump make a loud grinding/rattling sound.

can this be fixed without requesting for an RMA?


----------



## waslakhani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mokmoki*
> 
> i've been using my H100i for 3 months now, and the pump has been running silently *up until today.*
> 
> i was running my stock fans on the "Performance" profile for a couple of days recently, because I just setup my GTX670 SLI, so i wanted the unit to exhaust as much air as possible.
> 
> then today i had to concentrate on my work so i turned down the fans from "Performance" profile to "Quiet" profile. then i heard the noise. i thought at first that it was one of my fans that was loose. but after re-attaching all of my fans, the noise was still there.
> 
> i removed the pump and confirmed that it was indeed the pump that is causing the noise. it doesn't matter whether there are fans attached to the pump or not, as soon as the power is turned on, i can hear the pump make a loud grinding/rattling sound.
> 
> can this be fixed without requesting for an RMA?


If it makes a clicking sound take it out right now. Same thing happened with me and going with an RMA is the best idea.


----------



## p2mob

Not too late to join? My H110. I love this 280mm rad and 140mm fans.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/4/img0380cl.jpg/

I know its a mess







When I get a new power supply I'll get it all cleaned up


----------



## mokmoki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waslakhani*
> 
> If it makes a clicking sound take it out right now. Same thing happened with me and going with an RMA is the best idea.


well, my video just finished uploading. here's what it sounds like:


----------



## waslakhani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mokmoki*
> 
> well, my video just finished uploading. here's what it sounds like:


That is the sound that it made before mine started to leak RMA it asap.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mokmoki*
> 
> i've been using my H100i for 3 months now, and the pump has been running silently *up until today.*
> 
> i was running my stock fans on the "Performance" profile for a couple of days recently, because I just setup my GTX670 SLI, so i wanted the unit to exhaust as much air as possible.
> 
> then today i had to concentrate on my work so i turned down the fans from "Performance" profile to "Quiet" profile. then i heard the noise. i thought at first that it was one of my fans that was loose. but after re-attaching all of my fans, the noise was still there.
> 
> i removed the pump and confirmed that it was indeed the pump that is causing the noise. it doesn't matter whether there are fans attached to the pump or not, as soon as the power is turned on, i can hear the pump make a loud grinding/rattling sound.
> 
> can this be fixed without requesting for an RMA?


Nicely done video, clearly shows you have a defective pump and you should request an RMA, BUT in your case being in the Philippines you could request an "Advanced RMA" / cross-shipping (see *HERE*) with the evidence your video provides so you have less downtime. As a temporary fix some guys have had success at quieting the rattling/gurgling (note: not quite the same as your noise) by tipping their rig 30-90 degrees to the right while facing your case or just laying the case on it's right side, See if that helps?









@Waslakhani ... Yours is the 1st time I've heard of a rattling (failing) pump precede a catastrophic fluid leak. Usually a leak failure w/Corsair AIOs happens upon 1st installation or user error. Most guys have continued running their pumps until their replacement arrives. But I guess to be on the safe side Mokmoki could just put his stock HSF on there and do the traditional RMA, but being in the Philippines that may take some time?


----------



## Erick Silver

Make sure you can send that video along with your RMA to Corsair for proof. That is very evidently a pump failure. No way for them to deny you with that video as proof.


----------



## Vulpix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mokmoki*
> 
> well, my video just finished uploading. here's what it sounds like:


This is kinda worrying. My PC is placed in a corner quite far away from me. Will I be able to hear the motors failing before something happens?


----------



## InvalidUserID

Has Corsair ever asked for proof? When my H100 failed, I simply told them of the situation and they approved the RMA.


----------



## BradleyW

Have you tried to avoid using the onboard fan control hardware built into the block? Also, try updating the firmware to 1.0.5 if you've not got it.
If this fails, I'd say the pump is faulty due to a number of different reasons which aren't your fault.


----------



## mokmoki

^ yeah, if you noticed in the video, i intentionally disconnected the fans to show that it's not the fans causing the noise, since most H100i users had the pump noise disappear by not attaching the fans to the block.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vulpix*
> 
> This is kinda worrying. My PC is placed in a corner quite far away from me. Will I be able to hear the motors failing before something happens?


Just keep a temperature monitor running on your desktop. If your temperature changes abruptly you can open your case and have a listen. Just remember that problems like this are the exception.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Just keep a temperature monitor running on your desktop. If your temperature changes abruptly you can open your case and have a listen. Just remember that problems like this are the exception.


Speaking of which, Real Temp is a really light program that you can set to start when you login every time and shut down your computer automatically if it reaches a cpu temp that you choose.


----------



## D-an-W

Yesterday my green and blue LEDs stopped working, just a red Corsair logo now unless I move the slider down to zero then just darkness. It looks like this isn't an uncommon problem so I guess it will be returned for replacement.


----------



## blazed_1

Not sure if this has been said before but apparently RadeonPro can cause Corsair Link to crash when you try to start it. Figured this out after spending a few hrs trying everything I could find on the web. When none of that worked I just started closing running programs. Turned off RadeonPro and Corsair Link started up just fine.

Unfortunately I think my pump is shot though. On a 2600k @ 4.2GHz, 1.288v my temps hit 90C in just a few sec while running P95. Corsair Link reports the pump as running full speed (2140 RPM) but the h80i temp (guessing that's water temp?) jumps from 29 to 31C in about 3 sec.

Also noticed a bit of noise coming from my rig occasionally after booting up that would go away after about 20 sec. I thought it was a fan at first until I pulled everything out of the case to re-seat the block. Check the bios and it shows the pumps only doing about 800 RPM while making that noise but then shoots back up to 2400 RPM and the noise goes away.

I'm guessing I'm going to have to RMA this but I figured I would check here first if there is anything I can try first.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blazed_1*
> 
> Unfortunately I think my pump is shot though. On a 2600k @ 4.2GHz, 1.288v my temps hit 90C in just a few sec while running P95. Corsair Link reports the pump as running full speed (2140 RPM) but the h80i temp (guessing that's water temp?) jumps from 29 to 31C in about 3 sec.
> 
> Also noticed a bit of noise coming from my rig occasionally after booting up that would go away after about 20 sec. I thought it was a fan at first until I pulled everything out of the case to re-seat the block. Check the bios and it shows the pumps only doing about 800 RPM while making that noise but then shoots back up to 2400 RPM and the noise goes away.
> 
> I'm guessing I'm going to have to RMA this but I figured I would check here first if there is anything I can try first.


Regarding your boot issue I get the exact same thing. Pump makes all sorts of sounds and the LED pulses red but goes away once I get to the Windows loading screen. Only happens to me after I've powered down or the machine has been off for awhile. Regarding your temps though on load I get around 30 C idle and 55C full load and I'm folding with this so the temps are constant. It sounds like your pump is still working though if it's reporting the full speed but the waterblock might not be making proper contact with your CPU? If you're still having problems after that it probably is faulty and you'll have to deal with Corsair's RMA process.


----------



## blazed_1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Regarding your boot issue I get the exact same thing. Pump makes all sorts of sounds and the LED pulses red but goes away once I get to the Windows loading screen. Only happens to me after I've powered down or the machine has been off for awhile. Regarding your temps though on load I get around 30 C idle and 55C full load and I'm folding with this so the temps are constant. It sounds like your pump is still working though if it's reporting the full speed but the waterblock might not be making proper contact with your CPU? If you're still having problems after that it probably is faulty and you'll have to deal with Corsair's RMA process.


I get the LED pulses as well but mine's already red so it goes to white and back. The only way to get it to stop is either change the color in Corsair Link or power off and on. Everything is also tightened down pretty good so I don't see how it couldn't be making contact but I will pull the block off and check once I get home from work tonight.

If I do have to RMA, how easy is Corsair to deal with? Unfortunately I just missed the deadline to return it to Newegg by a week.


----------



## Erick Silver

Corsairs RMA process is painless compared to the other companies from what I can gather. I have not seen or heard anyone have issues with getting their AIO systems replaced.


----------



## cravinmild

I rma my corsair ram and it was super easy phone support with advance rma. It's a good company to work with.


----------



## blazed_1

Good news here, no need to RMA! Found a thread where some people with ITX mobo's needed to add washers to the backplate to get more pressure on the CPU so I tried it out and here are the results;


Spoiler: Before









Spoiler: After






Quite a difference! I'm just glad I found and tried this before RMA'ing and having the same issues. Thanks and +reps for all the replies.


----------



## DUpgrade

^ Glad you got it fixed. I know some people were having issues with the H1/80i fitting odd mobos and had to get/use the backplate from H1/80.


----------



## Curleyyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blazed_1*
> 
> needed to add washers to the backplate to get more pressure on the CPU so I tried it out and here are the result


I think I might need to do this also, I'm hitting temps that feel/seem too high even though the block feels solid in place.

What sort of washers did you use?


----------



## blazed_1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Curleyyy*
> 
> I think I might need to do this also, I'm hitting temps that feel/seem too high even though the block feels solid in place.
> 
> What sort of washers did you use?


They're a very thin, red, cardboard. No idea what they were for but just happened to find them in a bag of misc. case screws. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful but I can at least say I wouldn't use metal washers.


----------



## i5insky

I'll join


----------



## DUpgrade

^ Where is it? I see the water block and know the tubes it's a H1/80i but not sure if it's front or top mounted? Also, what's the deal with the green wire going across the GPUs?


----------



## i5insky

there it is.. top mounted, has a zip tie around it because one of my screw holes on the cooler is stripped out

and the green wire in the picture above is running to the CCFL sound inverter... its just green because i sleeved a lot of the wires


----------



## Mergatroid

^ Sound inverter? Why is it called a sound inverter?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blazed_1*
> 
> They're a very thin, red, cardboard. No idea what they were for but just happened to find them in a bag of misc. case screws. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful but I can at least say I wouldn't use metal washers.


I did exactly the same thing with my H100, even using the same washers. I didn't notice any big temp difference though, I just did it because it seemed to me that the cooler could be a little tighter. I may have noticed a slight downward trend in the cooling, but nothing more than one or two degrees.

Good job getting it working well.


----------



## i5insky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> ^ Sound inverter? Why is it called a sound inverter?


Because it converts the sound waves to electrical waves... that way the CCFL's (cold cathode flourescents) light up relative to the sound in the room... my main use is for music


----------



## i5insky

I'm not even 100% on the terminology but i believe its called a sound iverter


----------



## MillerLite1314

ok got my h80i installed and plugged it and I fired up my system. only problem is that the corsair logo has stopped glowing and the fan speed doesn't change when I change the profiles in corsair link. any similar problems seen before


----------



## MillerLite1314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerLite1314*
> 
> ok got my h80i installed and plugged it and I fired up my system. only problem is that the corsair logo has stopped glowing and the fan speed doesn't change when I change the profiles in corsair link. any similar problems seen before


problem solved


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *i5insky*
> 
> Because it converts the sound waves to electrical waves... that way the CCFL's (cold cathode flourescents) light up relative to the sound in the room... my main use is for music


That's pretty cool. I didn't know they had those for CCFL lights. I have seen Shimmer lights for incandescent, and I have seen light organs using strobe lights, but I didn't realize they had set up PC CCFLs to do the same thing. That's pretty cool man.


----------



## Anoxy

Will these NZXT fans work in the H100i?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Will these NZXT fans work in the H100i?


Yes, they should work just fine.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Will these NZXT fans work in the H100i?


no, they have crap static pressure. you need more, much more. how much do you want to spend on 4 fans? or how much on 2? and/or how much noise?


----------



## Anoxy

I just wanted some decent fans with white leds. Maybe I should just get case fans instead of replacing the H100i fans


----------



## Sozin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blazed_1*
> 
> Good news here, no need to RMA! Found a thread where some people with ITX mobo's needed to add washers to the backplate to get more pressure on the CPU so I tried it out and here are the results;
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quite a difference! I'm just glad I found and tried this before RMA'ing and having the same issues. Thanks and +reps for all the replies.


Holy crap. I've been experiencing very high temps at stock in a Prodigy with my 3570k and H80, so I went and delidded and still am experiencing high temps, but I never thought it could be this. But now that I think about it, I did notice how loose the backplate is...I need to check this out tonight.


----------



## Clos

Got two questions for you guys, and maybe, Corsair George can answer this. But, I currently have a H100. Love it, NEVER had any issues with it to be honest, and would like to upgrade to the h110.
My dilema is,
1) I'm not really a fan of the new h110 mounting bracket, it just looks like it doesn't really HOLD it in place as well as the previous mounting style.
2) I don't really care for having to use the Corsair Link program to control the pump, anyone know or heard if a None link h110 controller will be release? (i.e. old h100 style control but for the h110 pump/fans?)
Or is everything going the way of the "Link"?

The reason why i ask is, i prefer the first gen H100's style of controling the pump and fan speed per temp, vs. the H110 would be 100% pump and variable fan speed. If i'm wrong about this, please correct me, so i'm not blowing smoke up my own arse,







but understand the 2 systems wrong. I appreciate any insight you guy's would have.


----------



## DUpgrade

^ I feel that Corsair is trying to push their Link stuff. There's all kinds of modules and things you can buy in addition to the CLC and PSU. I've debated a lighting module but you need the command thing in addition to that. It would be easier to make my own with LED strips and a switch.


----------



## SpDFreaK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> ^ I feel that Corsair is trying to push their Link stuff. There's all kinds of modules and things you can buy in addition to the CLC and PSU. I've debated a lighting module but you need the command thing in addition to that. It would be easier to make my own with LED strips and a switch.


^ x2. Looking at the product line up it seems that all higher end Corsair cooling products are going with the "Link". A new H100i without the I part would be nice as most of the complaints I have seen about the unit are from that or the software. Would probably be cheaper too. A H110 with the H60 pump head and some decent fans would be a nice upgrade to my current H100i.

The Cooling Node has two buttons on the top of the unit that will change the LED strips connected to that channel though the primary 5 colors without the Commander or the software. However, if you wanted LED lights without software control, I am sure there are cheaper alternatives.


----------



## pc-illiterate

The h100 pump is supposed to run 100% at all times. If it isn't something is wrong.


----------



## cravinmild

I like the 110 for simplicity. Mounting was easy from my h100, just removed the H100 and mounted the h110 then screwed it tight. I use a fan controller for fan speed.


----------



## i5insky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> That's pretty cool. I didn't know they had those for CCFL lights. I have seen Shimmer lights for incandescent, and I have seen light organs using strobe lights, but I didn't realize they had set up PC CCFLs to do the same thing. That's pretty cool man.


heres a vid of my PC running with some music playing
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NvfclxresMc

if your interested here's a link..
http://www.adorama.com/LOCLK15BL.html?gclid=CObiivHO4bcCFetFMgod43wAmw


----------



## Clos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> The h100 pump is supposed to run 100% at all times. If it isn't something is wrong.


Oh Really? Well, if that is the case, then my only real complain with the H110 is the Mounting bracket vs the h100 style bracket... I can just hook the fans to the CPU headers and create a profile there, and make the pump run 100% or install a resistor for about 85-90% pump speed. Thanks PC Illeterate!

i wonder if i should just get a 280mm radiator and use my h100 head until she dies. then just buy the swiftek all in one head unit....
Hrmmm.. I just love the original H100's simplicity of control, but want a 280mm AIO for my future C70. i could always use the h100 rad to cool my gpu, though it's probably not thick enough for dual 7970's in the future...

I guess i'll figure out something then... I'll probably just end up getting the H110, for the warranty, corsairs customer service and price, it's worth it. I appreciate the heads up and help everyone.


----------



## Clos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> The h100 pump is supposed to run 100% at all times. If it isn't something is wrong.


oh no? i thought the pump would vary it's speed depending on cpu temp. So it only varies fan speed then? I guess the only thing i can complain about is the mountain style of the H110... It just looks weaker than the H100.... but... i'm no engineer, just a mechanic


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clos*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> The h100 pump is supposed to run 100% at all times. If it isn't something is wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh Really? Well, if that is the case, then my only real complain with the H110 is the Mounting bracket vs the h100 style bracket... I can just hook the fans to the CPU headers and create a profile there, and make the pump run 100% or install a resistor for about 85-90% pump speed. Thanks PC Illeterate!
Click to expand...

Why would you want to slow the pump speed down? I would think that this could cause a possible noise with it not running at full speed. Another thing to point out is the CPU fan header just reads the pump RPM as fan speed it doesn't power them, that's what the SATA power connector is for.


----------



## cravinmild

a lot of peeps will run the pump at lower voltage as it can help with gargling and rattling or other annoying pump noise. I would not myself but others see it as a fix.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Will these NZXT fans work in the H100i?


Those fans look like nice case fans, but they're no good for a rad: Air Pressure 0.71 mmH2O.
You need much higher air pressure (static pressure) for a rad fan. I prefer something over 3 mmH2O myself.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *i5insky*
> 
> heres a vid of my PC running with some music playing
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NvfclxresMc
> 
> if your interested here's a link..
> http://www.adorama.com/LOCLK15BL.html?gclid=CObiivHO4bcCFetFMgod43wAmw


That's pretty sweet for sure. Personally, I'm using a NZXT Hue for internal lighting, and I'm pretty happy with it.


----------



## Kentech0023

Hey guys,

Sorry to derail the convo but my main system is dead and I am trying to find the answer to something.

I have an OG H50 that I got with my i7 920 many moons ago and I am now going to upgrade to a 4670K. Does anyone know if the mounting brackets supplied with the original H50 will fit the 1150 socket?

Thanks for the help!


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> a lot of peeps will run the pump at lower voltage as it can help with gargling and rattling or other annoying pump noise. I would not myself but others see it as a fix.


It used to be due to the +12v rail running 12.3v causing an almost "overpowering" of the pump causing the noise. The H1/80i has a firmware fix for this issue already. I wouldn't run the pump under 100% as it would also more than likely lose cooling performance.


----------



## bill4d

I got my H80i today.

I know there have been multiple issues with older versions of this product.

Is there a way I can look at the UPC product seal on the outside of the box to ensure my cooler is a recently produced one?

Or, is there a serial number inside the box on the item somewhere, that will tell me how long ago my cooler was manufactured?


----------



## waslakhani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kentech0023*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Sorry to derail the convo but my main system is dead and I am trying to find the answer to something.
> 
> I have an OG H50 that I got with my i7 920 many moons ago and I am now going to upgrade to a 4670K. Does anyone know if the mounting brackets supplied with the original H50 will fit the 1150 socket?
> 
> Thanks for the help!


I think it should because If it supports 1155 or 1156 it should support 1150.


----------



## waslakhani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bill4d*
> 
> I got my H80i today.
> 
> I know there have been multiple issues with older versions of this product.
> 
> Is there a way I can look at the UPC product seal on the outside of the box to ensure my cooler is a recently produced one?
> 
> Or, is there a serial number inside the box on the item somewhere, that will tell me how long ago my cooler was manufactured?


There is a lot code and I think a serial on the bottom side of the radiator.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bill4d*
> 
> I got my H80i today.
> 
> I know there have been multiple issues with older versions of this product.
> 
> Is there a way I can look at the UPC product seal on the outside of the box to ensure my cooler is a recently produced one?
> 
> Or, is there a serial number inside the box on the item somewhere, that will tell me how long ago my cooler was manufactured?


It's on the box, look for white sticker with cooler model number/name. It should be the shorter bar code (8 digits??). The first four digits show the year & week. For example, 1215XXXX, it means manufactured/assembled on year 2012 weeks 15.


----------



## phre0n

hey guys, just stopped in to say hello. I am now part of the Corsair H100i owners.


----------



## ihatelolcats

im having issues with my h100. im pretty sure the pump is working, the lights come on and it vibrates. it also reports 2163 rpm. but as soon as i put load on it the temp spikes really quickly. i dislike the amd mounting solution they used but i think i had good contact based on the look of the paste. dunno what to do.

this is with prime95. over 60C after about 2 seconds


----------



## BradleyW

Hey Hydro people!
I just switched my rad from intake to exhaust (Push config in both scenarios) and my temps are 10c lower, yet the air in my case should be hotter due to my 7970 CF setup.
Any idea why this is?

Also, has anyone got any discoloring on their block yet?
Plus, is there any benefit if I move to a H110 with 4 140mm noctua fans in PP?
Thank you.


----------



## NorKris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hey Hydro people!
> I just switched my rad from intake to exhaust (Push config in both scenarios) and my temps are 10c lower, yet the air in my case should be hotter due to my 7970 CF setup.
> Any idea why this is?
> 
> Also, has anyone got any discoloring on their block yet?
> Plus, is there any benefit if I move to a H110 with 4 140mm noctua fans in PP?
> Thank you.


having the rad as exhaust makes temps go up... only explanation is dust cleaning or remounting the pump


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Hey guys just thought i would stop by and get you guys professional advice on something,has anyone tried the new corsair sp 120 pwm fans on the hydro series yet,and if so can it be controlled by the corsair software.....?


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys just thought i would stop by and get you guys professional advice on something,has anyone tried the new corsair sp 120 pwm fans on the hydro series yet,and if so can it be controlled by the corsair software.....?


Yeah the fans can be controlled through the Corsair LINK software. That being said I have the SP120 quiet edition and let them run 100% all the time without hearing them.


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Also, has anyone got any discoloring on their block yet?
> 
> .


like this lol,


some 2000grit sandpaper and a flat surface will remove this in a jiffy


----------



## pc-illiterate

http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/3-unexpected-uses-for-cream-of-tartar-181006

quoted for your pleasure
Copper: Mix it with lemon juice to clean and polish copper kettles.


----------



## Erick Silver

Sugar and Apple Cider Vinegar for those pots and pans I used to own with the copper bottoms...


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> having the rad as exhaust makes temps go up... only explanation is dust cleaning or remounting the pump


No dust was present to even clean and the block has not been removed during the rad position change.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> like this lol,
> 
> 
> some 2000grit sandpaper and a flat surface will remove this in a jiffy


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/3-unexpected-uses-for-cream-of-tartar-181006
> 
> quoted for your pleasure
> Copper: Mix it with lemon juice to clean and polish copper kettles.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Sugar and Apple Cider Vinegar for those pots and pans I used to own with the copper bottoms...


Thanks the for suggestions. Does oxidization copper hurt the thermal performance?


----------



## richie_2010

Hi guys does anyone know the weight of just the h100 on its own. Im having to rma mine and had an advanced rma and corsair shipped me a new h100i with a charge of £65 on my card.
The packing on the h100i said 2.6kg and if the h100 is over 2kg its going to cost me 35 to ship back the old one


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> Hi guys does anyone know the weight of just the h100 on its own. Im having to rma mine and had an advanced rma and corsair shipped me a new h100i with a charge of £65 on my card.
> The packing on the h100i said 2.6kg and if the h100 is over 2kg its going to cost me 35 to ship back the old one


Did they give you an RMA pickup or you have to pay to ship back? Not sure how the process with Corsair works but that sounds like quite a bit to ship something back to them.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> Hi guys does anyone know the weight of just the h100 on its own. Im having to rma mine and had an advanced rma and corsair shipped me a new h100i with a charge of £65 on my card.
> The packing on the h100i said 2.6kg and if the h100 is over 2kg its going to cost me 35 to ship back the old one


Estimated 1.2kg.


----------



## richie_2010

They shipped me a new one via advanced rma I asked about shipping label for the old one they said I needed pay that

I asked in post office going off the weight on the one I got from them.


----------



## waslakhani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> They shipped me a new one via advanced rma I asked about shipping label for the old one they said I needed pay that
> 
> I asked in post office going off the weight on the one I got from them.


Hey I would call their customer service and tell them I spent a lot of money to buy this and can't afford shipping. And ask for a shipping label they will gladly give you a shipping label. This has always worked for me to get free shipping on RMAs from corsair good luck on getting free shipping.


----------



## richie_2010

Ill take it to the post office and get the price and email them. When I asked when I did the advanced rma they said I had to pay
They only charged my card £65 for the h100i


----------



## waslakhani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> Ill take it to the post office and get the price and email them. When I asked when I did the advanced rma they said I had to pay
> They only charged my card £65 for the h100i


Try your luck. You would save £35 and it I'd worth it. You could of bought a new one.


----------



## jktmas

just took some pics.


----------



## richie_2010

The charge is if they dont receive my h100 after 15days of me receiving my replacement


----------



## levontraut

Add me.

i have a

H50
H70
H100i

they are brilliant


----------



## waslakhani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> The charge is if they dont receive my h100 after 15days of me receiving my replacement


I would call them but it is your call.


----------



## richie_2010

I will call tomorrow


----------



## waslakhani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> I will call tomorrow


Yessssssssss! Good luck!!!!!!!


----------



## Candurin

I did post this question in the newly formed Corsair 350D Case owners thread, but I figured I would get more responses (and more personal experiences with corsair AIO's):

I'm in the midst of a new build and wanted to know what the best case fan & H110 fans orientation would be (rad fan push/pull is not an option due to space constraints).

My office is in the basement which normally stays around 66-68 degrees F (it's only "semi-finished").

I woud like to keep my case in positive pressure (more intake than exhaust) and I've got two 140's for the front of the case, two 140's up top (where the H110 will mount) and one rear case 120mm (with Demcifilters available for all fan intakes so dust is not an issue).

Options:

1. 2 front intakes, 2 top intakes (top fans push through rad [fans above rad]), rear exhaust - 4 intakes, 1 exhaust
2. 2 front intakes, 2 top intakes (top fans pull through rad [fans below rad]), rear exhaust - 4 intakes, 1 exhaust
3. 2 front intakes, 2 top exhausts (top fans push through rad [fans below rad]), rear intake - 3 intakes, 2 exhausts
4. 2 front intakes, 2 top exhausts (top fans pull through rad [fans above rad]), rear intake - 3 intakes, 2 exhausts
5. Another configuration (ideas?).

Assembly starts when I get back in 2 weeks... I'm replacing my p5q deluxe/q9550 build from 2009.

Thanks in advance!

P.S. My setup is: 3770k, maximus v gene, gtx660, gskill tridentx, HX750W, H110 cooler, 350d case, noctua fans


----------



## pc-illiterate

h110 as exhaust and everything else as intake will help keep your vrm heatsinks and other motherboard stuff cooler. you would need high cfm fans for intake and keep the h110 fans from running 100%. this would get you your positive pressure.
have rear case fan as exhaust and EVERYTHING else as intake including the h110. this will give you higher case temps including warmer/hotter vrm sinks.
its up to you to see which has more benefit for stability. if youre overclocking, you definitely want that h110 exhausting.
are you planning to delid?


----------



## Candurin

I thought about it (don't know if I have the stones to do it). Seems easy enough with the hammer and vice. I can always grab some liquid pro/ultra to go between the ihs and die. I've still got ocz freeze to go between a the ihs and hydro heatsink.

Am I better off with a push exhaust (fans below) or pull exhaust (fans above)?


----------



## pc-illiterate

it doesnt make much difference either way, 2-3*C last i read. i prefer push for better cooling and pull for less dust on the rad.


----------



## DUpgrade

With the H110 I would say do pull because the fans are SP140Ls and for whatever reason Corsair only makes AF140 version, 120mm comes in AF120 and SP120. Someone on here put 2 AF140s on the push side of their H110 but I highly doubt that did anything it was just for athetics.


----------



## Candurin

I plan on swapping out the H110 fans with my noctua nf-a14 pwm fans. Given that, push or pull?


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Candurin*
> 
> I plan on swapping out the H110 fans with my noctua nf-a14 pwm fans. Given that, push or pull?


Definitely pull. Nobody wants to see Noctua fans (at least I don't).


----------



## Candurin

Agreed. They are tough to look at. I solved that with my windowless case


----------



## BradleyW

Will I see much a difference moving from a H100i with 4 NF F12's with LNA's to a H110 with 4 AF140 fans with LNA's?
Cheers.


----------



## NorKris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Will I see much a difference moving from a H100i with 4 NF F12's with LNA's to a H110 with 4 AF140 fans with LNA's?
> Cheers.


nop.., worth the upgrade? nop


----------



## cravinmild

Pretty much the same for me from a h100 to H110 @ stock


----------



## BradleyW

Thanks.


----------



## El-Fuego

Just got H110 from tigerdirect for $99 (after rebate), after debating if i should get it or swiftech H220, with all the problems i'm hearing about the h220 and the not-so-sure compatibility issues with the sabertooth motherboards I went corsair to save myself the headaches.

now it's sitting in my car will install it later when i get home tonight.

can the club manager/mod add the h110 to the list/forms in the first page too please.


----------



## Anoxy

Welp this is a real bummer.

I had my H100i installed and Link 2 was working great. Then my motherboard crapped out so I had to replace it. And now, Link doesn't detect my H100i...


----------



## dusters16

just making sure, but... did you plug in the usb header?


----------



## Jahocowi

Looking at water cooling solutions. Which would be better? The H100i or H110? Also, what would be a decent case that would work with them? I kind of like the Obsidian 650D, but I heard it wasn't good with water cooling.


----------



## phre0n

Here's just a quick snap shots of how h100i is running, with the Version 2.4.4948-Beta

Idle:


Took this a little late:


This was during pass number 9 only on the high setting:


Overall so far i'm really happy with this cooler. A friend of mine bought the h110, and keeps giving me crap on how i should have got that one instead, but whatever, i'm very happy with my buy.


----------



## cravinmild

The H110 requires room for a 280mm rad and comes with two fans (140mm) and best of all NO SOFTWARE so you only have to worry about the pump messing you up, not all that other hoopla







I don't own the H100i but I DID own the H100 (the H100i's older uglier sister) which performs within a few deg. of each other. The H100i has software, lights that change color and built in fan controller, larger waterlines and I think a different pump. The H100i is also only a 240mm rad with standard 120mm fans so its more compatible with cases because of this and its sata powered not molex.

The H100i has a LOT going for it and I almost grabbed one .. almost







the one biggest thing for me was longevity. My H70 has ran on my gpu for the last two years and for better than a year before that on the cpu. Never one single issue with that H70 but my upgrade to a fancy new H100 rewarded me with a dead unit in less than a year and a half. Fan controller dead out of the box. The H110 offers simple stupid cooling. Nothing but a pump to break down









Temps between the two are pretty close with a stock 2700k, loads may be a smidge lower. The H100 was P/P and the new H110 has 140mm on one side and 120mm on the other (mod







) so not exactly out of the box testing


----------



## Anoxy

I just like the H100i hoses much more than the H100....


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I just like the H100i hoses much more than the H100....


Same here. The H100 tubing looks way too thin and cheap. I also hate the block compared to the H100i. They should do a copper rad thick version.


----------



## Jahocowi

So, H100i then?


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jahocowi*
> 
> So, H100i then?


If your case can take the 110 go for it otherwise 100i is your best solution, trust me I did read A LOT about all others and corsair is the only company that have a really good warranty.


----------



## Jahocowi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> If your case can take the 110 go for it otherwise 100i is your best solution, trust me I did read A LOT about all others and corsair is the only company that have a really good warranty.


I'm looking for a new case. Was thinking Obsidian 650D.


----------



## waslakhani

If you want a small foot print i would suggest the 350d but if you don't want to go mATX the 650D is great.


----------



## Jahocowi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waslakhani*
> 
> If you want a small foot print i would suggest the 350d but if you don't want to go mATX the 650D is great.


I'd like a decent airflow.


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jahocowi*
> 
> I'm looking for a new case. Was thinking Obsidian 650D.


Yeah the 650 should be able to house 280mm rad
http://www.corsair.com/en/hydro-series-h110-280mm-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler.html


----------



## nohackmove

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phre0n*
> 
> Here's just a quick snap shots of how h100i is running, with the Version 2.4.4948-Beta
> 
> Idle:
> 
> 
> Took this a little late:
> 
> 
> This was during pass number 9 only on the high setting:
> 
> 
> Overall so far i'm really happy with this cooler. A friend of mine bought the h110, and keeps giving me crap on how i should have got that one instead, but whatever, i'm very happy with my buy.


Coolest state of my system with H100i.
i cant make it cooler then that in Corsair C70 Case there is a pair of corsair fans on top as exhaust and a single which came with case at rear as exhaust also.
two fans in front panel to intake air. other fan slots are empty.

*Idle:*


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phre0n*
> 
> Here's just a quick snap shots of how h100i is running, with the Version 2.4.4948-Beta
> 
> Idle:
> 
> 
> Took this a little late:
> 
> 
> This was during pass number 9 only on the high setting:
> 
> 
> Overall so far i'm really happy with this cooler. A friend of mine bought the h110, and keeps giving me crap on how i should have got that one instead, but whatever, i'm very happy with my buy.


If I knew the i software looks this awesome i'd got H100i instead,

no really the H100i is all about control, with the 110 it's just a block you throw it in your system and you're done!
I went with the latter since I don't really mess with my system everyday (not that successful so far).


----------



## ez12a

The software isn't all that great and IMO shouldn't be the one thing that keeps one from getting the h110


----------



## cravinmild

Here is a screen capture from the Corsair forums-cooling section

** edit ** click on image to view. IDK what happened











This is a good day on their forums. There are pages and pages and pages of these complaints most have nothing to do with the pump itself but some other issue. The unit runs but no light, units pump works but fan controllers are dead, unit works but software does not detect, unit works but fans cant be controlled...... point being the unit has a pump that works, its the other stuff that's problematic. You wont have these issues with the H110 cause it only has the one thing that doesn't seem to mess up .... the pump.

Im not knocking Corsair, they most likely sell more AIO units than any other company out there and as such will have more feedback in the forums both good and bad. That's just common sense. User error can account for a lot of issues also but keep in mind you don't see many users posting issues with the H110 and you will never see an issue of burned out lights, software not detecting, software not working, dead fan controllers or other "smart pump" related issues.

I like the H100i and almost got one but the H100 has left a sour taste in my mouth and im uncertain of everything but the pump on the H100i.


----------



## El-Fuego

and this is exactly why I went with H110,
I've read somewhere during my research that H100i with better SP fans can get better numbers than H110, but to be honest I just want something that works! so I went with H110.


----------



## Jahocowi

Sweet! Thanks for the help!


----------



## Anoxy

I might trade in my H100i for an H110. If only the cooler didn't look like a bottle cap...


----------



## cravinmild

this is it, guess it kind of looks like a bottle cap. No lights so cover it with fabric or something if its ugly for you


----------



## El-Fuego

one warning thou, that plastic cap over the TIM can cut your finger if you hold it tight on the edge and twist taking it off.


----------



## Anoxy

aw, i like the light on my 100i


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jahocowi*
> 
> Looking at water cooling solutions. Which would be better? The H100i or H110? Also, what would be a decent case that would work with them? I kind of like the Obsidian 650D, but I heard it wasn't good with water cooling.


The 650D is an excellent case. One of my roommates has one and he's using an H100. The H110 is an excellent cooler, but you have to make sure the top of your case has room for two 140mm fans (280mm). I think the 650D can house a 240mm rad, so the H110 should work well in it. If you wanted to remove the internal hard drive bays (which are made to be removed) you can install a 200mm rad up front (you may have to drill mounting holes in the mesh on the case as the Corsair 200mm fan isn't standard (not that there really is any such thing)). It can also fit a 120mm rad in the back 120mm exhaust fan spot. So, it's actually a pretty decent case for water cooling. Just be warned that it's pretty big for a mid tower, but once you start working in it you'll love all the room.

You could check out the Obsidian thread, or even the Graphite thread since their interiors are so similar. Personally, if I didn't already own a 600T I think I would have purchased a 650D. They're really nice cases and I love the look.

http://www.overclock.net/t/572373/official-corsair-obsidian-900d-800d-700d-650d-550d-club

http://www.overclock.net/t/831636/official-corsair-graphite-club

Here's the 650D page on Corsair's site:

http://www.corsair.com/en/pc-cases/obsidian-series-pc-case/obsidian-series-650d.html

"The top fan can be replaced by dual 120mm or 140mm fans, and is pre-spaced for a dual radiator if you're interested in watercooling."

I don't know why anyone would say it's not good for water cooling.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ez12a*
> 
> The software isn't all that great and IMO shouldn't be the one thing that keeps one from getting the h110


I agree. I've read about a fair number of people having issues with block noises, LEDs that stop working, software that acts up and causes issues, and noisy fans. Personally, I would say spend the extra couple of bucks and get the 110 if you have the space.

Edit: Here's the 650D thread:

http://www.overclock.net/t/907643/corsair-obsidian-650d-mid-tower


----------



## DUpgrade

I enjoy my H80i however I don't know how much longer I'm going to be using it. It's going to look silly in my 900D until I get the rest of the parts for a full loop. That being said I do like the AIO coolers and wish Corsair made some bigger ones beyond 240, more like 360. At least the H110 and H90 are bigger with the better tubes although I don't like the rounded block on them it reminds me of a H70. I hope Corsair comes out with a SP140 version of their fans that would give me some interesting options as I like their fans.


----------



## Anoxy

I'm returning my H100i and I placed an order for the H110. Should be here tomorrow afternoon. Excited to finally have a complete build...until I get the itch to upgrade something again.


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I'm returning my H100i and I placed an order for the H110. Should be here tomorrow afternoon. Excited to finally have a complete build...until I get the itch to upgrade something again.


lol, welcome to the club, again


----------



## Danielson

.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danielson*
> 
> .


You would most likely not see much difference in temps either configuration. its more of personal taste for you.


----------



## Danielson

Would you folks give me your opinion on case flow and the H100i? Currently I have it mounted in the top in down flow config as shown here:


I am considering relocating the rad to the front, behind the HDD's and exhausting out the top. Like this:


Which configuration is better?

Thanks!
P.S. Sorry about the pics being upside down, can't figure out why my iPhone is doing that. ***


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danielson*
> 
> Would you folks give me your opinion on case flow and the H100i? Currently I have it mounted in the top in down flow config as shown here:
> 
> 
> I am considering relocating the rad to the front, behind the HDD's and exhausting out the top. Like this:
> 
> 
> Which configuration is better?
> 
> Thanks!
> P.S. Sorry about the pics being upside down, can't figure out why my iPhone is doing that. ***


You want positive pressure for less dust in the case. C70 case has dust filters at the front & at the bottom. Why don't you utilized them by putting a 120mm fan at the bottom (intake) & add another two at the front (intake), inside the front panel. Then change the H100i fan to work as exhaust. You'll get good air flow with this configuration.

Why do you want put radiator at the front? It's better the pump below the radiator not the other way around. If there is air trapped inside the loop, the air bubble can transfer to the pump. [EDIT] (This has cause misunderstanding which I already explained a little bit better in my later/next post.)


----------



## Kyronn94

So Scan.co.uk's Facebook page just alerted me to the following deals:

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/corsair-hydro-series-h100-refurb-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler-240mm-radiator-plus-2-fans

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/corsair-hydro-series-h80-refurb-hydro-series-cpu-cooler-lga-115x-1366-and-2011-and-am2-am3-fm1-and-f

Has anyone had any experience with refurbished products, with the Corsair Hydro series in mind?
Not sure how likely an H100 is to fail within 90 days.

An H100 at £40 is very tempting, and I'm not sure weather to go with it - obviously not for my Node 304









What do you guys think?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyronn94*
> 
> So Scan.co.uk's Facebook page just alerted me to the following deals:
> 
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/corsair-hydro-series-h100-refurb-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler-240mm-radiator-plus-2-fans
> 
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/corsair-hydro-series-h80-refurb-hydro-series-cpu-cooler-lga-115x-1366-and-2011-and-am2-am3-fm1-and-f
> 
> Has anyone had any experience with refurbished products, with the Corsair Hydro series in mind?
> Not sure how likely an H100 is to fail within 90 days.
> 
> An H100 at £40 is very tempting, and I'm not sure weather to go with it - obviously not for my Node 304
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think?


It is very cheap so go for it. They can't sell products that are not cleared I don't think. Just ask about return policy on referb and make your mind up from that.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyronn94*
> 
> So Scan.co.uk's Facebook page just alerted me to the following deals:
> 
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/corsair-hydro-series-h100-refurb-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler-240mm-radiator-plus-2-fans
> 
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/corsair-hydro-series-h80-refurb-hydro-series-cpu-cooler-lga-115x-1366-and-2011-and-am2-am3-fm1-and-f
> 
> Has anyone had any experience with refurbished products, with the Corsair Hydro series in mind?
> Not sure how likely an H100 is to fail within 90 days.
> 
> An H100 at £40 is very tempting, and I'm not sure weather to go with it - obviously not for my Node 304
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think?


I ordered my H100 as a refurbished model. Not a single hiccup or problem in the last couple of months since having it installed. Fans all work properly, no stuttering or odd noises. Pump has been working with no issues.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danielson*
> 
> Would you folks give me your opinion on case flow and the H100i? Currently I have it mounted in the top in down flow config as shown here:
> 
> 
> I am considering relocating the rad to the front, behind the HDD's and exhausting out the top. Like this:
> 
> 
> Which configuration is better?
> 
> Thanks!
> P.S. Sorry about the pics being upside down, can't figure out why my iPhone is doing that. ***


I know nothing about "best" configurations, but fwiw in my Arc Midi R2, I've got it set up like your first photo. Except I also have a 140mm fan as intake on the bottom.

The guide for setting up the H100i said they recommend placing it at the top as an intake, so that's what I did :3


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> The guide for setting up the H100i said they recommend placing it at the top as an intake, so that's what I did :3


I know Corsair manual says intake and it also says there is supposed to be 8 washers but only come with 4 too. I think these run better in exhaust but I also think that depends on what kind of stuff you're running and how much heat those components are putting off. I dare say that most top rads are usually setup in exhaust in pull only or push pull.


----------



## jktmas

most cases it just ends up that exhaust is the best way to go, but intake will lower your cpu temps because it is blowing cool air over the rad


----------



## Anoxy

How do you determine the best way to go for your case? Trial and error?


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> How do you determine the best way to go for your case? Trial and error?


Just depends on the case and how vented it is. Some just say make all the fans intake so you're just pushing air over everything all the time. I just want air to have a flow in from the front and bottom and out through the back and top.


----------



## Anoxy

Yeah that seemed pretty intuitive when building. Air comes in the front and blows out the back. It makes more sense to have my H110 as exhaust up top since hot air rises, so maybe I'll give that a shot when it arrives this afternoon.


----------



## Kyronn94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> It is very cheap so go for it. They can't sell products that are not cleared I don't think. Just ask about return policy on referb and make your mind up from that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I ordered my H100 as a refurbished model. Not a single hiccup or problem in the last couple of months since having it installed. Fans all work properly, no stuttering or odd noises. Pump has been working with no issues.


Ordered









Should be here on Monday.
Now I just need to decide weather to get a 2500K or just stick it on my Phenom II!


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyronn94*
> 
> Ordered
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be here on Monday.
> Now I just need to decide weather to get a 2500K or just stick it on my Phenom II!


Another thing to remember, even though it is refurbished, you still get the Corsair warranty if anything does happen with it.


----------



## NorKris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> You want positive pressure for less dust in the case. C70 case has dust filters at the front & at the bottom. Why don't you utilized them by putting a 120mm fan at the bottom (intake) & add another two at the front (intake), inside the front panel. Then change the H100i fan to work as exhaust. You'll get good air flow with this configuration.
> 
> Why do you want put radiator at the front? It's better the pump below the radiator not the other way around. If there is air trapped inside the loop, the air bubble can transfer to the pump.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> Why would u put a rad in the front of the case? ... lower temps... >_<


This is also a CLS. From what I've read, the Radiator placement does not matter as much as it would with full custom loops.


----------



## NorKris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> This is also a CLS. From what I've read, the Radiator placement does not matter as much as it would with full custom loops.


i think it matters more with the all in one's


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> i think it matters more with the all in one's


How so? They arent meant to be placed anywhere the hoses will allow. Do not need to be bled, and never need maintenance. (obviously unless something happens thats not supposed to)

They are built to be no maintenance, so why would placement matter for air bubble purposes?


----------



## NorKris

Custom watercooling loops is keeping the temps down (close to room temp) cuz they have "res'es" with water aaand often more than one "rad"... more then one "rad" makes the other rads stay other plases then in the front, making it doesnt matter where u place the rad...

with a all in one u have 1 rad and little water to "play" with, therefor place it where the cold air is... (the PCB's can take alittle hotter air)


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> Custom watercooling loops is keeping the temps down (close to room temp) cuz they have "res'es" with water aaand often more than one "rad"... more then one "rad" makes the other rads stay other plases then in the front, making it doesnt matter where u place the rad...
> 
> with a all in one u have 1 rad and little water to "play" with, therefor place it where the cold air is... (the PCB's can take alittle hotter air)


So if the cold air is in the front of the case... why would you not put it there? That seems to be the point of these CLS's. Place them either 1. where it is most convenient. or B. place them where you can get cold air through the radiator.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> How so? They arent meant to be placed anywhere the hoses will allow. Do not need to be bled, and never need maintenance. (obviously unless something happens thats not supposed to)
> 
> They are built to be no maintenance, so why would placement matter for air bubble purposes?


What just happen?! I think there is misunderstanding here. Let me explain. AIO (All-In-One) cooler can have tiny air bubbles trapped in it during assembly, at least mine have. Since it's sealed loop system, we can't bleeding it. So the air bubbles will always there. In this case, if radiator is placed below the pump, the air bubbles can transfer to pump & pump may make noise. This what I meant when I said better put radiator above the pump in my previous post. Sorry, I should make myself clear. On my H100, it does make a noise when the radiator is located below the pump. Not loud though. The noise go away when I put the radiator at the top of the case, where it should be. I don't know whether the pump can survive if I'm running it that way any longer.

So, this should clear things up.

Anyway, per-Corsair recommendation, in their manual & blogs, for dual 120/140mm radiator, is to be placed at the top of the case which basically above the pump & the tubes pointed downward. Even for single 120mm radiator, recommendation is to be placed at the back with the tubes at the bottom. I don't see any reason to do otherwise, unless there is a problem with the casing.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> What just happen?! I think there is misunderstanding here. Let me explain. AIO (All-In-One) cooler can have tiny air bubbles trapped in it during assembly, at least mine have. Since it's sealed loop system, we can't bleeding it. So the air bubbles will always there. In this case, if radiator is placed below the pump, the air bubbles can transfer to pump & pump may make noise. This what I meant when I said better put radiator above the pump in my previous post. Sorry, I should make myself clear. On my H100, it does make a noise when the radiator is located below the pump. Not loud though. The noise go away when I put the radiator at the top of the case, where it should be. I don't know whether the pump can survive if I'm running it that way any longer.
> 
> So, this should clear things up.
> 
> Anyway, per-Corsair recommendation, in their manual & blogs, for dual 120/140mm radiator, is to be placed at the top of the case which basically above the pump & the tubes pointed downward. Even for single 120mm radiator, recommendation is to be placed at the back with the tubes at the bottom. I don't see any reason to do otherwise, unless there is a problem with the casing.


I gotcha. It may be case specific then, even though Corsair recommends it to be placed above the Pump. I've had mine in front of my hard drive cages, where the front fans normally go, and have not experienced any noises from the pump that suggest air bubbles.

But yes, that is clearer now that you've explained it. It is better practice to place it above the pump for that reason.


----------



## Kyronn94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Another thing to remember, even though it is refurbished, you still get the Corsair warranty if anything does happen with it.


Are you sure about that, just found this on the product page:

'Corsair Refurbishment are subject to 3 months warranty only, with Scan Computers.

The units have no warranty with Corsair direct.'

The unit is now listed as 'pre-order' so I presume that they ran out!


----------



## Destrto

Ahh. My mistake. Mine still came with a Corsair warranty from New egg when I purchased it. It must be different for other vendors. Thanks for correcting me. Hate giving out false information unintentionally.


----------



## Kyronn94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Ahh. My mistake. Mine still came with a Corsair warranty from New egg when I purchased it. It must be different for other vendors. Thanks for correcting me. Hate giving out false information unintentionally.


No worries - I know that Corsair support is legendary in the US, but I've not really heard much about it here in the UK.
They might not have the facilities to accommodate for refurbished units.


----------



## asdfasdf12

Question... What color does the H80i emit when it's on? I've seen white and red. Trying to go with a nice color scheme here.


----------



## jktmas

you can set it to any color you want


----------



## asdfasdf12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> you can set it to any color you want


Wow, really? What are the different colors and how are they adjusted?


----------



## Anoxy

Anything. You use three sliders to mix the color palette however you like.


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdfasdf12*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> you can set it to any color you want
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, really? What are the different colors and how are they adjusted?
Click to expand...

you can download a thing from corsair that will change fan speeds and the color of the lights on your H80i, its any color under the sun.


----------



## asdfasdf12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> you can download a thing from corsair that will change fan speeds and the color of the lights on your H80i, its any color under the sun.


That's awesome! Picking one up right away.


----------



## Cores

I'm wondering, how much difference does Push+Pull make? I'm already running two SP120 Performance Editions and want to know whether it's worth another £20 for P+P.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fegelein*
> 
> I'm wondering, how much difference does Push+Pull make? I'm already running two SP120 Performance Editions and want to know whether it's worth another £20 for P+P.


You won't see a difference because the fan you use already spin fast enough to get through that thin radiator. However, my fans are 600 rpm so I need push pull. This gives better performance than 2 fans and it is about 10 dba quieter.


----------



## jktmas

i watched a video from linus tech tips and he said that with decent fans you dont need push pull for the H100/(i) but you would notice a decrease with the H80/(i) because the rad is thicker


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> i watched a video from linus tech tips and he said that with decent fans you dont need push pull for the H100/(i) but you would notice a decrease with the H80/(i) because the rad is thicker


Well this is sort of what I was saying with high speed fans on the H100 Rad.


----------



## jktmas

if you have good fans then you will not need push / pull for the H100/(i) just like corsair has them out of the box


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> if you have good fans then you will not need push / pull for the H100/(i) just like corsair has them out of the box


I don't think the included fans are good, we saw a lot of people getting better cooling using the corsair SP120s, I know it's not by much but sometimes these 2-4 degrees can make a difference,
now I wish they make SP140s as well.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> I don't think the included fans are good, we saw a lot of people getting better cooling using the corsair SP120s, I know it's not by much but sometimes these 2-4 degrees can make a difference,
> now I wish they make SP140s as well.


The fans on the H100i are the SP series but without the colour ring. Also, they are much higher performing than the SP 120's because they spin a lot quicker.


----------



## jktmas

its not all about rpm, static pressure is a big deal with radiators


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> its not all about rpm, static pressure is a big deal with radiators


No you don't get what I mean. The H100i fans ARE SP 120's, but they have faster RPM operations, thus increasing the static pressure due to the static pressure design of the SP series. Check the specs for yourself if you don't believe me.


----------



## Destrto

Sp series have a quiet and performance model, right? Low speed and higher speed.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Sp series have a quiet and performance model, right? Low speed and higher speed.


Yes. Plus, you can get the mega high speed version which has the most static pressure, but those fans can only be obtained by buying the H100i.


----------



## PedroC1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Yes. Plus, you can get the mega high speed version which has the most static pressure, but those fans can only be obtained by buying the H100i.


You can order them from the Corsair website, under Cooler Accessories I think )


----------



## jktmas

yes its $15 http://www.corsair.com/us/cpu-cooling-kits/cpu-cooling-accessories/hydro-series-h80i-h100i-sp120l-2700-rpm-replacement-fan.html


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danielson*
> 
> Would you folks give me your opinion on case flow and the H100i? Currently I have it mounted in the top in down flow config as shown here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am considering relocating the rad to the front, behind the HDD's and exhausting out the top. Like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which configuration is better?
> 
> Thanks!
> P.S. Sorry about the pics being upside down, can't figure out why my iPhone is doing that. ***


I think the way you have it now is optimal. I personally wouldn't want the hot air from my rad dumping at my video card. Also, you may have some trouble getting the rad and fans to fit on your hard drive rack.

Note, you can use Paint in Windows to rotate your pictures before uploading them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyronn94*
> 
> So Scan.co.uk's Facebook page just alerted me to the following deals:
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/corsair-hydro-series-h100-refurb-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler-240mm-radiator-plus-2-fans
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/corsair-hydro-series-h80-refurb-hydro-series-cpu-cooler-lga-115x-1366-and-2011-and-am2-am3-fm1-and-f
> Has anyone had any experience with refurbished products, with the Corsair Hydro series in mind?
> Not sure how likely an H100 is to fail within 90 days.
> 
> An H100 at £40 is very tempting, and I'm not sure weather to go with it - obviously not for my Node 304
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think?


If they are only offering a 90 day warranty, I would skip it. They offer 5 year warranties on their new units. If they have any confidence in their refurbs they should at least offer a one year warranty. No way would I purchase one with just a 90 day warranty.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> I don't think the included fans are good, we saw a lot of people getting better cooling using the corsair SP120s, I know it's not by much but sometimes these 2-4 degrees can make a difference,
> now I wish they make SP140s as well.


If you get a new unit, you should get Corsair PWM fans with it that are just as good as the SP fans (if not the better). The older units came with 3-pin fans and we a little noisy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> No you don't get what I mean. The H100i fans ARE SP 120's, but they have faster RPM operations, thus increasing the static pressure due to the static pressure design of the SP series. Check the specs for yourself if you don't believe me.


I don't think they are the same fans anymore. The new H100i fans are PWM. I don't think the Corsair SP120 fans are PWM.


----------



## kizwan

SP120 PWM High Performance fans are available. SP120 PWM Quiet Edition available too. The non-PWM & PWM does have identical specification though.


----------



## DUpgrade

PWM on SP120 Quiet is pointless IMHO. I rub mine full boar 100% and don't hear a thing.


----------



## shw89

I have a h100i, my temps are 35-40c .. my room temp is like 75/80, is this good temps? I owned a evo heatsink and I would get 35-40c .. Everything is mounted correctly. Maybe apply different thermal paste? I adjusted the fans to 1575rpm fixed rpms.. I would thought a liquid cooler would be like 30c..


----------



## pc-illiterate

We need more info, total rig layout and parts.


----------



## shw89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> We need more info, total rig layout and parts.


Okay, I managed to OC my 3570K to 4.4ghz with voltage of 1.310 ..
Temperature outside is 88F, my room is upstairs and its about 75F.
I have a 350D Case with all stock fans, gigabyte gtx 670oc edition, 16gig gskill ripjaw ram, h100i cooler stock fans and running the RPM on the CorsairLink @ 1600RPM now.

My temperature just browsing is 40c now on Core #0, #1 34c, #2 30c, and #4 37c

Is this okay? I ran prime95 blend for like 10 minutes just to see, it went up as high as 70c ...

Also, when I'm running these test, or intel burn test, why does my fan just stay at same rpms.. Shouldn't they kick in if my CPU gets too hard?


----------



## KaiserDragon

depends. the only fan controller that is in line with the CPU is the CPU fan. (note dont use it for the compressor)
4pins can adapt with the CPU or whatever they are inline with. 3pins are controlled in the BIOS. OR software.


----------



## yarly

anyone know if you have to send everything back with the h110 for rma? like the fans and brackets or can i just send in the rad and pump


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yarly*
> 
> anyone know if you have to send everything back with the h110 for rma? like the fans and brackets or can i just send in the rad and pump


I think that should be explained in the email/phone call with them for the rma process, if that wasn't mentioned try to call/email back to confirm.


----------



## jktmas

I fore-got to send my fans back with my H80 and they sent me new ones


----------



## yarly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> I fore-got to send my fans back with my H80 and they sent me new ones


oh did they charge you for replacement or anything or is it free replacement? just wanna make sure and when you send in your h80 did you just warp it up and ship it in another box or in the original box


----------



## jktmas

They did not charge me, or say anything about it, i simply forgot about them. i wrapped it up in the original box, then put that inside a bigger brown box, and put some big RMA labels on it, that tends to be standard protocol for RMA's, at least at my work.


----------



## yarly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> They did not charge me, or say anything about it, i simply forgot about them. i wrapped it up in the original box, then put that inside a bigger brown box, and put some big RMA labels on it, that tends to be standard protocol for RMA's, at least at my work.


oh ok thanks for the info


----------



## jktmas

but it was unintentional, you should not purposely not send something


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> but it was unintentional, you should not purposely not send something


You shouldn't have to send fans with an RMA anyways. The water block, pump, rad is all one unit and the fans shouldn't matter. Did they have to send new fans? Nope. You just happen to get them when they sent it back but that's never a guarantee either. I wouldn't want to risk not having fans too if that's all I had.


----------



## shw89

Anyone recommend having a push/pull setup? Is it worth it? I just kinda cant seem justifying spending 60 for 4 sp120 quiet pwn edition. Will it really lower my temp significantly?


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shw89*
> 
> Anyone recommend having a push/pull setup? Is it worth it? I just kinda cant seem justifying spending 60 for 4 sp120 quiet pwn edition. Will it really lower my temp significantly?


Short answer is no. If you're doing quiet it can help as those fans have lower RPM and static pressure a push/pull can help it along. Thinner rads though only require a pull setup. I like the look of the SP120s even though there's not a huge amount of gain. Perhaps use the stock for pull at lower speed and just get 2 for push?


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> but it was unintentional, you should not purposely not send something
> 
> 
> 
> You shouldn't have to send fans with an RMA anyways. The water block, pump, rad is all one unit and the fans shouldn't matter. Did they have to send new fans? Nope. You just happen to get them when they sent it back but that's never a guarantee either. I wouldn't want to risk not having fans too if that's all I had.
Click to expand...

but they send you a brand new never opened unit with fans


----------



## shw89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Short answer is no. If you're doing quiet it can help as those fans have lower RPM and static pressure a push/pull can help it along. Thinner rads though only require a pull setup. I like the look of the SP120s even though there's not a huge amount of gain. Perhaps use the stock for pull at lower speed and just get 2 for push?


I was actually thinking of that last night, using the stock for pull I can just use low amount rpm to make it quiet, it doesn't have to match the rpm for push right?


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> but it was unintentional, you should not purposely not send something
> 
> 
> 
> You shouldn't have to send fans with an RMA anyways. The water block, pump, rad is all one unit and the fans shouldn't matter. Did they have to send new fans? Nope. You just happen to get them when they sent it back but that's never a guarantee either. I wouldn't want to risk not having fans too if that's all I had.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> but they send you a brand new never opened unit with fans
Click to expand...

That's not what you're sending the RMA in for unless they ask you to send the entire unit in including all mounting hardware and fans. I've never done the Corsair RMA process so i didn't know they did this but I also don't feel it's taking advantage because as the customer you have no idea how good or bad a company will handle an RMA. Normally you get a refurb replacement so NIB is a huge bonus.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shw89*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Short answer is no. If you're doing quiet it can help as those fans have lower RPM and static pressure a push/pull can help it along. Thinner rads though only require a pull setup. I like the look of the SP120s even though there's not a huge amount of gain. Perhaps use the stock for pull at lower speed and just get 2 for push?
> 
> 
> 
> I was actually thinking of that last night, using the stock for pull I can just use low amount rpm to make it quiet, it doesn't have to match the rpm for push right?
Click to expand...

You might be able to use the 7v adapters on those stock fans to lower the RPM and noise (never used them so don't know how loud they actually are). The SP120 quiets max 1450 RPM and those stock SP120L can do 2700 RPM so lowering the RPM or reducing them so they balance out would be ideal. I have no idea if this will work or not so take it for what it's worth.


----------



## shw89

Well I just ordered SP120 Quiet Pwn and 2 AF140s, ill see how it goes. Thanks.


----------



## yarly

how long does it take corsair to contact me cause i send in a rma ticket and got an email saying "A Customer Service representative will respond within 1 business day." been a day now and nothing


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yarly*
> 
> how long does it take corsair to contact me cause i send in a rma ticket and got an email saying "A Customer Service representative will respond within 1 business day." been a day now and nothing


Might want to find and PM Corsair George to see if they could help you. I've never dealt with a Corsair RMA so not sure how that process works or how long it takes for anything to happen.


----------



## Destrto

I PMed Corsair George for help about an RMA ticket over a month ago, and have yet to hear a reply. I also haven't gotten a response from Corsair in almost 2 months about my ticket opened with them.


----------



## waslakhani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yarly*
> 
> how long does it take corsair to contact me cause i send in a rma ticket and got an email saying "A Customer Service representative will respond within 1 business day." been a day now and nothing


I would just call them. It took them 3 weeks for them to get me an rma number. So just pm corsairgeorge on ocn.


----------



## pc-illiterate

go post on the corsair forums. its much faster.


----------



## sniperpowa

Just got a H100i. I was going to do a custom loop but they didn't have the right fittings to get it running and I did'nt want to wait. I got a 3930k and it doesnt come with a cooler and this was the only option if I wanted to get the system running. I actually have had great temps with this setup. max @ 4.6 ghz 1.38v is right at 70c running prime 95 and it hit 70 and actually worked its way down to 65c-68c.


----------



## ozzy1925

i have h110 and when i get my head inside the case there is some weird noise coming from the cpu cooler, i cant hear it from outside but i wonder does it effect the coolers performance?


----------



## PedroC1999

Its most probably the pump just rumbling away, its normal


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Its most probably the pump just rumbling away, its normal


then is it normal for the pump to rumble all the time?


----------



## PedroC1999

If its working, then yes


----------



## ozzy1925

thanks for the help i am more comfortable now


----------



## PedroC1999

Haha, mine does the same, dont worry


----------



## Adriaensen

My rig:

I have a Corsair H100 and a corsair H80 in this PC.
They are located on my gfx cards (670's 4Gb)


Spoiler: Pictures












H100 Rad hanging externaly on the back
H80 is where the drivebay's used to be in the front lower part of the DF85 case.
Getting 40°C on the top card max 'with room temps: 20°C)
Lower card does 47°C


----------



## js593

Anyone have any issues with Corsair deleting your account after creating an RMA, and possibly waiting too long? i finally got a replacement cooling system, and i'm sending mine in for RMA now, but my account no longer exists, and my RMA ticket has been deleted.

H100 fail....
Corsair fail....
What's next...


----------



## Ikthus

I've never heard of that happening. I would call them ASAP and explain the situation. They're generally good about these things so they should take care of you.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PedroC1999*
> 
> Haha, mine does the same, dont worry


btw i made a video please check if its the same as yours?you can hear clearly at the end http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtskKN2l3Fs&feature=youtu.be


----------



## PedroC1999

Yep, very similar


----------



## ozzy1925

ok


----------



## Destrto

Just a questions of curiosity, do you have your pump plugged in to a motherboard header that has a speed profile assigned to it? For example, ASUS has Fan Xpert, a fan speed utility, and Q-Fan within BIOS to manually set fan speeds based on temps.

When I plugged my 2 Antec 620's into my motherboard headers while that profile was active, the pumps made similar gurgling and and odd sounds, but when I plugged them in to just a straight 12V header, the sounds went away.


----------



## DUpgrade

When the pump is plugged into the mobo header it's just reading the pump speed as the RPM and not relying on it to power or control the pump. The power comes from the sata connector that you also hook up. With these Corsair coolers I just disable that Q-fan control and sensors on those mobo headers anyways beucase you can't really control them anyways.


----------



## Destrto

Yes, with corsair coolers I guess that issue doesn't happen. With the Antecs, it seemed to happen to mine. Cause it gets power from the motherboard header? Thats what I like better about the corsair coolers.


----------



## pc-illiterate

its not totally smart to disable the rpm reading. you can have your pc shut down if the pump dies or the fans stop and it gets too hot.
some of the a-i-o get their power through the 3-pin header but i dont know when corsair(or antec) stopped the practice.


----------



## Mergatroid

Sorry for the long post. Been away for a couple of days.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shw89*
> 
> Okay, I managed to OC my 3570K to 4.4ghz with voltage of 1.310 ..
> Temperature outside is 88F, my room is upstairs and its about 75F.
> I have a 350D Case with all stock fans, gigabyte gtx 670oc edition, 16gig gskill ripjaw ram, h100i cooler stock fans and running the RPM on the CorsairLink @ 1600RPM now.
> 
> My temperature just browsing is 40c now on Core #0, #1 34c, #2 30c, and #4 37c
> 
> Is this okay? I ran prime95 blend for like 10 minutes just to see, it went up as high as 70c ...
> 
> Also, when I'm running these test, or intel burn test, why does my fan just stay at same rpms.. Shouldn't they kick in if my CPU gets too hard?


That seems fine to me. My 2500K runs 4.5GHz at about 70c running Intel Burn Test for a half hour. I'm using the stock voltage though.

If your fans are plugged into the H100i block, and if you're running the Corsair software and have the Link plugged into the USB header, then you should be able to control the fans using the software.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yarly*
> 
> anyone know if you have to send everything back with the h110 for rma? like the fans and brackets or can i just send in the rad and pump


A guy I know sent an H70 to Corsair (even though there was nothing wrong with it). They wanted the complete unit, including the fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> They did not charge me, or say anything about it, i simply forgot about them. i wrapped it up in the original box, then put that inside a bigger brown box, and put some big RMA labels on it, that tends to be standard protocol for RMA's, at least at my work.


That's awesome. I guess it just depends on the mood of the person doing the actual exchange.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shw89*
> 
> I was actually thinking of that last night, using the stock for pull I can just use low amount rpm to make it quiet, it doesn't have to match the rpm for push right?


There's been a bit of a debate on that question, in this thread. The consensus seems to be that, if you can, use matched push and pull fans, but if you can't do that then at least make sure the fans you use are roughly in the same ballpark (personally I would say within 1000 RPM), and I would use the slowest fan as the pull fan, which makes sense. Also consider that different fans will move different amounts of air when running at the same RPM.
You can always use the same set on one side of the rad as push and pull, and use the second set of fans on the other side of the rad in push/pull. That way the fans would be matched.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yarly*
> 
> how long does it take corsair to contact me cause i send in a rma ticket and got an email saying "A Customer Service representative will respond within 1 business day." been a day now and nothing


Personally, I would give them 48 hours to respond, just knowing that they could be pretty busy. If they haven't responded by then, email them again. Contact George only if you can't get anywhere through regular channels. I bet that guy is swamped with stuff and, working in a similar field, I can empathize with him considering how many people he must help every day.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I PMed Corsair George for help about an RMA ticket over a month ago, and have yet to hear a reply. I also haven't gotten a response from Corsair in almost 2 months about my ticket opened with them.


Maybe you should contact George via email to get some help. I believe his email is [email protected] If I were you I would put something like "pls hlp wth 2 mnth old rma" in the subject so maybe it stands out a little.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniperpowa*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just got a H100i. I was going to do a custom loop but they didn't have the right fittings to get it running and I did'nt want to wait. I got a 3930k and it doesnt come with a cooler and this was the only option if I wanted to get the system running. I actually have had great temps with this setup. max @ 4.6 ghz 1.38v is right at 70c running prime 95 and it hit 70 and actually worked its way down to 65c-68c.


Those are really nice temps man. You should be a pretty happy fella...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adriaensen*
> 
> My rig:
> 
> I have a Corsair H100 and a corsair H80 in this PC.
> They are located on my gfx cards (670's 4Gb)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> H100 Rad hanging externaly on the back
> H80 is where the drivebay's used to be in the front lower part of the DF85 case.
> Getting 40°C on the top card max 'with room temps: 20°C)
> Lower card does 47°C


That's awesome man. Good job. Very well done.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> Anyone have any issues with Corsair deleting your account after creating an RMA, and possibly waiting too long? i finally got a replacement cooling system, and i'm sending mine in for RMA now, but my account no longer exists, and my RMA ticket has been deleted.
> 
> H100 fail....
> Corsair fail....
> What's next...


Never heard of Corsair just deleting an account before.
You can always open a new one. Most companies will close an RMA if the customer doesn't update it or respond within a pre-set time frame (of course they usually tell you that somewhere obvious along the RMA path).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Just a questions of curiosity, do you have your pump plugged in to a motherboard header that has a speed profile assigned to it? For example, ASUS has Fan Xpert, a fan speed utility, and Q-Fan within BIOS to manually set fan speeds based on temps.
> 
> When I plugged my 2 Antec 620's into my motherboard headers while that profile was active, the pumps made similar gurgling and and odd sounds, but when I plugged them in to just a straight 12V header, the sounds went away.


They're made to be run at 100% all the time. You should just go into BIOS and disable the system control on that fan header. You can still read the pump RPM, but the system won't try to control it.

The Hydro coolers work differently as DUpgrade has explained. I actually prefer the system used by your cooler as it allows the pump to have only one wire harness that you plug into the CPU_FAN header providing both 12V for the pump and a Tac signal for the motherboard. If your Antek cooler comes with a 4-pin PWM fan, you should plug your pump into a Chassis_FAN or PWR_FAN header, and use your CPU_FAN header to control the PWM fan.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Sorry for the long post. Been away for a couple of days.
> That seems fine to me. My 2500K runs 4.5GHz at about 70c running Intel Burn Test for a half hour. I'm using the stock voltage though.
> 
> If your fans are plugged into the H100i block, and if you're running the Corsair software and have the Link plugged into the USB header, then you should be able to control the fans using the software.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> A guy I know sent an H70 to Corsair (even though there was nothing wrong with it). They wanted the complete unit, including the fans.
> That's awesome. I guess it just depends on the mood of the person doing the actual exchange.
> There's been a bit of a debate on that question, in this thread. The consensus seems to be that, if you can, use matched push and pull fans, but if you can't do that then at least make sure the fans you use are roughly in the same ballpark (personally I would say within 1000 RPM), and I would use the slowest fan as the pull fan, which makes sense. Also consider that different fans will move different amounts of air when running at the same RPM.
> You can always use the same set on one side of the rad as push and pull, and use the second set of fans on the other side of the rad in push/pull. That way the fans would be matched.
> Personally, I would give them 48 hours to respond, just knowing that they could be pretty busy. If they haven't responded by then, email them again. Contact George only if you can't get anywhere through regular channels. I bet that guy is swamped with stuff and, working in a similar field, I can empathize with him considering how many people he must help every day.
> Maybe you should contact George via email to get some help. I believe his email is [email protected] If I were you I would put something like "pls hlp wth 2 mnth old rma" in the subject so maybe it stands out a little.
> Those are really nice temps man. You should be a pretty happy fella...
> That's awesome man. Good job. Very well done.
> Never heard of Corsair just deleting an account before.
> You can always open a new one. Most companies will close an RMA if the customer doesn't update it or respond within a pre-set time frame (of course they usually tell you that somewhere obvious along the RMA path).
> 
> 
> They're made to be run at 100% all the time. You should just go into BIOS and disable the system control on that fan header. You can still read the pump RPM, but the system won't try to control it.
> 
> The Hydro coolers work differently as DUpgrade has explained. I actually prefer the system used by your cooler as it allows the pump to have only one wire harness that you plug into the CPU_FAN header providing both 12V for the pump and a Tac signal for the motherboard. If your Antek cooler comes with a 4-pin PWM fan, you should plug your pump into a Chassis_FAN or PWR_FAN header, and use your CPU_FAN header to control the PWM fan.


I have that Fan Xpert program out of the ASUS AI Suite installed that controls the chassis fans plugged in to the motherboard headers. I have since solved the pump noise problem, but it was just strange when I first turned everything on and heard that noise. And the program automatically turns on the Q fan option within BIOS, but I wanted it on because i do have another fan on the opposite side of my case that uses that fan profile.
I, too, like only having one wire for pump control, as it is less wire clutter. I currently have a 5 way fan adapter from Frozencpu that I have my pumps plugged into for full 12V. And a 3 pin to dual 3 pin adapter to plug both fans from the Antec coolers into the one chassis fan header nearby. That way the fan profile within Fan Xpert can monitor the speed.


----------



## Fishinfan

I just bought a corsair hydro h110 and a few questions.

Is compatible with the fx chips? and what is the optimal way to install it?


----------



## Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fishinfan*
> 
> I just bought a corsair hydro h110 and a few questions.
> 
> Is compatible with the fx chips? and what is the optimal way to install it?


I don't see why not as long as it comes with the AMD mounting bracket. There is not really an optimal way to install it afaik.


----------



## Fishinfan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fegelein*
> 
> I don't see why not as long as it comes with the AMD mounting bracket. There is not really an optimal way to install it afaik.


Ok,thanks. It didn't list it on the box and on Neweggs web site.


----------



## Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fishinfan*
> 
> Ok,thanks. It didn't list it on the box and on Neweggs web site.


Double checked for you. It is indeed supported, according to Corsair's site.
http://www.corsair.com/us/hydro-series-h110-280mm-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler.html


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fishinfan*
> 
> I just bought a corsair hydro h110 and a few questions.
> 
> Is compatible with the fx chips? and what is the optimal way to install it?


Yeah it will work just fine with the standard AMD socket. Optimal install would be to make sure there's even pressure on the two sides of the CPU. I don't believe the back bracket is required for AMD at all so you'll have a much easier time just lining up those two locking pins on the socket. As far as fan mounting I believe the best performance from the H110 is putting the fans in pull behind the rad at the top of the case. Post some pics when you get it installed.


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Yeah it will work just fine with the standard AMD socket. Optimal install would be to make sure there's even pressure on the two sides of the CPU. I don't believe the back bracket is required for AMD at all so you'll have a much easier time just lining up those two locking pins on the socket. As far as fan mounting I believe the best performance from the H110 is putting the fans in pull behind the rad at the top of the case. Post some pics when you get it installed.


I had to use their bracket since I wasn't use their screws can fit the bracket that came with the sabertooth, but yeah H110 runs really great with my FX
also if you have control over the fan speed in your bios turn it to silent, it's night and day different in the noise.


----------



## Fishinfan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Yeah it will work just fine with the standard AMD socket. Optimal install would be to make sure there's even pressure on the two sides of the CPU. I don't believe the back bracket is required for AMD at all so you'll have a much easier time just lining up those two locking pins on the socket. As far as fan mounting I believe the best performance from the H110 is putting the fans in pull behind the rad at the top of the case. Post some pics when you get it installed.


I am installing it now. I am facing the fans with the label facing up, I hope that is pullin the air out.

One major question
do I need thermal paste?


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fishinfan*
> 
> I am installing it now. I am facing the fans with the label facing up, I hope that is pullin the air out.
> 
> One major question
> do I need thermal paste?


no it comes with TIM pre-applied

edit: yes label up = pull out


----------



## Fishinfan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> no it comes with TIM pre-applied
> 
> edit: yes label up = pull out


wow that was fast, thank you.


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fishinfan*
> 
> wow that was fast, thank you.


no problem, I hope you don't have to put yours with logo upside down like me


----------



## DUpgrade

^ Ohhh nooes the ship is sinking.


----------



## Fishinfan

Here it is.

http://s168.photobucket.com/user/Fishinfan/media/IMAG0138_zps8f61f45d.jpg.html

http://s168.photobucket.com/user/Fishinfan/media/IMAG0137_zpsa65eaa4b.jpg.html

My temps are 108.5 -109 F

I believe it's running,but only one fan is plugged in on top. I ran out of plugs on my motherboard. How did you guys solve that?


----------



## lordhinton

they should have made the tops of these rotatable


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fishinfan*
> 
> Here it is.
> 
> http://s168.photobucket.com/user/Fishinfan/media/IMAG0138_zps8f61f45d.jpg.html
> 
> http://s168.photobucket.com/user/Fishinfan/media/IMAG0137_zpsa65eaa4b.jpg.html
> 
> My temps are 108.5 -109 F
> 
> I believe it's running,but only one fan is plugged in on top. I ran out of plugs on my motherboard. How did you guys solve that?


I have 4 chassis fan outputs and 2 cpus fan cpu plugs with my sabertooth, but you can use splitter
something like this :
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812162026

or use a fan controller which you'll need in the future (trust me) these fans are LOUD and if you run them @100% all the time you wont really enjoy your water cooling quite experience, I lowered them to 800rpm and man what a difference.


----------



## Anoxy

Doesn't it come with a splitter? My H100i did.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fishinfan*
> 
> Here it is.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s168.photobucket.com/user/Fishinfan/media/IMAG0138_zps8f61f45d.jpg.html
> 
> http://s168.photobucket.com/user/Fishinfan/media/IMAG0137_zpsa65eaa4b.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> My temps are 108.5 -109 F
> 
> I believe it's running,but only one fan is plugged in on top. I ran out of plugs on my motherboard. How did you guys solve that?


Pick up a fan cable splitter, or use a 3-pin to molex adapter (most fans come with one) to plug a fan into your power supply. You could also purchase a fan controller. If they are 4-pin PWM fans, you can purchase a PWM splitter (NZXT makes a really nice one) and plug both fans into your CPU_FAN header on your motherboard. This has the advantage of controlling the RPM of the fans automatically.


----------



## Fishinfan

I already looked in my parts box, and none of my fans came with it.So, I am going to stop at tigerdirect store tomorrow.


----------



## Fishinfan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Doesn't it come with a splitter? My H100i did.


I guess corsair skimped on that.


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fishinfan*
> 
> I already looked in my parts box, and none of my fans came with it.So, I am going to stop at tigerdirect store tomorrow.


judging by your location we go tot he same tiger direct store
I love that place


----------



## Fishinfan

I go to the one in Schaumburg. I love that place also. I bought a 32gb micro sd card for $20 with tax and best buy wanted $70.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fishinfan*
> 
> I already looked in my parts box, and none of my fans came with it.So, I am going to stop at tigerdirect store tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> judging by your location we go tot he same tiger direct store
> I love that place
Click to expand...

You guys must have never been to Micro Center then. Ironically it's very close to the Tiger Direct here in the city across from the Target. There's also one in Downers Grove too.


----------



## jktmas

I would give anything to have anything like either in my town. we have an NFL team and all we can get in GB is an extremely overpriced computer store and a best buy


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> You guys must have never been to Micro Center then. Ironically it's very close to the Tiger Direct here in the city across from the Target. There's also one in Downers Grove too.


yeah if you look at my sig rig, half of my parts are either from Micro center or tiger direct.


----------



## shw89

Installed my new SP120 onto my rad today.. Just decided to do single instead of push/pull . I'm getting this weird grinding noise from the fans and it seems to be stuck at 1319-1322 RPMS . Its the quiet pwm editions. I cant go any higher and it says the max is at 1450. I can go to "default" mode in my corsair link and it will turn it all the way down to 950 rpms. The grinding will stop once set to that point. Anyone have a idea why it starts making a grinding noise at 1300+ RPMS?


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shw89*
> 
> Installed my new SP120 onto my rad today.. Just decided to do single instead of push/pull . I'm getting this weird grinding noise from the fans and it seems to be stuck at 1319-1322 RPMS . Its the quiet pwm editions. I cant go any higher and it says the max is at 1450. I can go to "default" mode in my corsair link and it will turn it all the way down to 950 rpms. The grinding will stop once set to that point. Anyone have a idea why it starts making a grinding noise at 1300+ RPMS?


They don't really go 1450 that's just peak rating, keep in mind they always do +/- 10% when it comes to RPM so 1450 is with +10% and 1300 RPM is probably the average. As far as griding you might have those things too tight against the rad that something is touching or they're just bad? Here's a screen of my Corsair Link showing my H80i in action:


----------



## shw89

I might have them too tight, i'll loosen them up a bit and try again.
When I put my hand on top of my case covering the vent it stops...


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shw89*
> 
> I might have them too tight, i'll loosen them up a bit and try again.
> When I put my hand on top of my case covering the vent it stops...


The fans is running at too low speed IMO, if you can make it stop just covering the vents with your hand.

About the noise, does it sound like the blade vibrating?


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shw89*
> 
> I might have them too tight, i'll loosen them up a bit and try again.
> When I put my hand on top of my case covering the vent it stops...


That means you have it mounted so tight there's about a 1mm gap so when the case is humming along its touching. You can also try those rubber grommet/washers to add a little more space if losening it a bit doesn't stop the noise. Alternatively put something rubber on the center sticker of the fan to push against your grill so it doesn't touch would work too.


----------



## BradleyW

Hey!
My 2 month old H100i has began making a very slight high pitched whine. I can hear it because my fans are slow spinning. Anything I can do about this?
Thanks.


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hey!
> My 2 month old H100i has began making a very slight high pitched whine. I can hear it because my fans are slow spinning. Anything I can do about this?
> Thanks.


possibly an air bubble stuck in the pump, they t o move it around to get the air bubble out.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> possibly an air bubble stuck in the pump, they t o move it around to get the air bubble out.


oh jeez. My rig is hard to move around because it is extreme heavy and the chassis is huge. So, how does a bubble form during normal use and are you sure a bubble can produce a slight whining/pitch noise?
I wish the H100i pump speed was controllable. I've never heard my pump until now. It is normally completely silent.


----------



## El-Fuego

yeah air bubbles can do that to all water pumps,
try to take it off the chip and move it around, do you know how to jump your power supply ? if not i'm sure you can find a lot of how to's here.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> yeah air bubbles can do that to all water pumps,
> try to take it off the chip and move it around, do you know how to jump your power supply ? if not i'm sure you can find a lot of how to's here.


Could you suggest an independent power unit so I could toggle on and off to save me from having to uninstall the unit? I don't want to remove the block because I have a really good mount this time around.
Thank you mate.


----------



## El-Fuego

well if you have another way to power it like a 2nd PSU or computer then you can use that, but you still need to move it around to get the air bubble out of the pump,
also since it's H100i you have the flexible hoses, try to squeeze them really really gently too, that can get the air bubble out too.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> well if you have another way to power it like a 2nd PSU or computer then you can use that, but you still need to move it around to get the air bubble out of the pump,
> also since it's H100i you have the flexible hoses, try to squeeze them really really gently too, that can get the air bubble out too.


How should I move the unit? shake the rad? Shake the block? Tip the unit upside down? Also, I just noticed my pump seems to run at 2350rpm which seems a bit too high right?
Thank you.


----------



## El-Fuego

yeah that's a bit too high, they usually run @ 1500rpm,
since you have the "i" system, check for software update/firmware update for it, sometimes problems like these can be solved with an update.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> yeah that's a bit too high, they usually run @ 1500rpm,
> since you have the "i" system, check for software update/firmware update for it, sometimes problems like these can be solved with an update.


My unit is shipped with the latest version.


----------



## pc-illiterate

that pump should be running about 2100 or higher. 1500 is entirely too slow. i would say its fine.
tap the block/pump and see if you can dislodge the air bubble if thats what it is, which im guessing it is.
what direction is the pump mounted? the hoses should be coming out the right hand side.


----------



## Cores

For comparison, my H100i's pump runs at 2143. I can't even hear it.


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> that pump should be running about 2100 or higher. 1500 is entirely too slow. i would say its fine.
> tap the block/pump and see if you can dislodge the air bubble if thats what it is, which im guessing it is.
> what direction is the pump mounted? the hoses should be coming out the right hand side.


you are right, I apologize
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair site*
> The 110 is different from a 100, which runs at ~2,200 RPM, constant


----------



## pc-illiterate

thanks for that bit of info fuego. i assume the h110 runs at 1500?


----------



## El-Fuego

Yeah the H110 runs at 1400-1500rpm


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Could you suggest an independent power unit so I could toggle on and off to save me from having to uninstall the unit? I don't want to remove the block because I have a really good mount this time around.
> Thank you mate.


You don't have to removed the block. You can try tap the block & see whether that helps or not. BTW, the radiator is above or below the pump?


----------



## MrSharkington

Hi everyone, I was just curious to what the best fan setting (rpm) that i should be using for the stock h100i fans? I've overclocked my 3570k to 4.5ghz on 1.2 volts, but i've been tinkering around with the fan settings and I'm not too sure, if anyone can help it'd be much appreciated.


----------



## shw89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> yeah that's a bit too high, they usually run @ 1500rpm,
> since you have the "i" system, check for software update/firmware update for it, sometimes problems like these can be solved with an update.


What? I thought the pump is always suppose to run at the max rpm.. mine was running st 2350 also.... updated drivers also.... Should I rma it?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shw89*
> 
> What? I thought the pump is always suppose to run at the max rpm.. mine was running st 2350 also.... updated drivers also.... Should I rma it?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> Originally Posted by Corsair site:
> The 110 is different from a 100, which runs at ~2,200 RPM, constant


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> Hi everyone, I was just curious to what the best fan setting (rpm) that i should be using for the stock h100i fans? I've overclocked my 3570k to 4.5ghz on 1.2 volts, but i've been tinkering around with the fan settings and I'm not too sure, if anyone can help it'd be much appreciated.


If you don't mind with the noise, then you can run at highest setting & get maximum thermal performance. Or if you sensitive with the noise, try running them at lower speed for silent operation. To know whether it provide enough thermal performance, run Prime95 Blend for 30 minutes which enough to give you an idea what is max temperature when CPU is fully loaded. IMO, if the temperature between 70s to 80s Celsius, then it is good setting.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> Hi everyone, I was just curious to what the best fan setting (rpm) that i should be using for the stock h100i fans? I've overclocked my 3570k to 4.5ghz on 1.2 volts, but i've been tinkering around with the fan settings and I'm not too sure, if anyone can help it'd be much appreciated.


I've been running my fans on the "Balanced" preset and my CPU temps are good for day-to-day stuff and the fans are no louder than my case fans.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> that pump should be running about 2100 or higher. 1500 is entirely too slow. i would say its fine.
> tap the block/pump and see if you can dislodge the air bubble if thats what it is, which im guessing it is.
> what direction is the pump mounted? the hoses should be coming out the right hand side.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> You don't have to removed the block. You can try tap the block & see whether that helps or not. BTW, the radiator is above or below the pump?


Thanks for the support so far!
Here is the H100i position.


----------



## PedroC1999

Well my Phobya block is leaking on the top ring, fgs

RMA tomorrow


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Thanks for the support so far!
> Here is the H100i position.


Did you try tap the block while it's running? Does the noise go away?

What you can try if that still doesn't fixed it are (try one by one):-

Connect the fans to motherboard.
Disconnect & re-connect USB header to motherboard.
Uninstall Corsair Link software.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Did you try tap the block while it's running? Does the noise go away?
> 
> What you can try if that still doesn't fixed it are (try one by one):-
> 
> Connect the fans to motherboard.
> Disconnect & re-connect USB header to motherboard.
> Uninstall Corsair Link software.


I tried all three. I am yet to tap the block. The noise is completely consistent and does not go away. The noise can only be slightly heard when you put your ear next to the chassis, but it seems slightly louder when you are slightly further away.

Edit: I've gone from tapping to hitting the block. No change.
Should I try covering the block with some sound proofing foam? I don't care about the corsair LED logo.


----------



## MrSharkington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> I've been running my fans on the "Balanced" preset and my CPU temps are good for day-to-day stuff and the fans are no louder than my case fans.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> If you don't mind with the noise, then you can run at highest setting & get maximum thermal performance. Or if you sensitive with the noise, try running them at lower speed for silent operation. To know whether it provide enough thermal performance, run Prime95 Blend for 30 minutes which enough to give you an idea what is max temperature when CPU is fully loaded. IMO, if the temperature between 70s to 80s Celsius, then it is good setting.


Thanks for your help! I have been using them on only 500rpm and there is only like a 2c difference compared to when theyre on max







along with the fact that even while running at such low speeds, on p95 or intel burn in, i'm not exceeding 75c


----------



## Destrto

Just thought I'd offer the info I learned about yesterday while out running errands. If you are intereted in replacing the tubing for the Non-i model coolers, try your local automotive store. Advanced auto, Oreillys, or autozone are just the few that are nearby to me.

I happened to find some called vacuum hose with exactly the right I.D., look, color and feel of the "i" model coolers. In case you are like me, and dont care for the clear or black vinyl tubing. I believe it was 99 or 97 cents a foot? Quite a bit more than vinyl tubing, but as I said, it doesnt match anything else in my case to get the vinyl tubing, so this black rubber vacuum hose was perfect for me.

Just thought I would share!


----------



## Destrto

I also have a question. To anyone that HAS modified their water coolers, what did you replace the stock coolant liquid with? What would be recomended to replace it with.


----------



## aaroc

Corsair H100i on top of CM 690 II Advanced USB 3.0 for cooling my AMD FX 8350. The GPUs are cooled by two Antec 620.


----------



## BradleyW

Why is everyone using the corsair SP 120's? They are loud and leak air, plus the actual rotational noise is not great. is it just to match colour themes?


----------



## kizwan

Corsair SP120 fans are high quality static pressure fans. The high performance edition does loud but you can run them at mid-range rpm using the included voltage drop down adapter & it still deliver very good performance. Any high quality static pressure fans going to be loud.


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Corsair SP120 fans are high quality static pressure fans. The high performance edition does loud but you can run them at mid-range rpm using the included voltage drop down adapter & it still deliver very good performance. Any high quality static pressure fans going to be loud.


2x I have all of my non PWM Corsair SP120 Quiet and AF140 Quiet with the drop down adapter and my PC is super silent and cold.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Lol. Buy gate loons and save money and get performance without the noise.


----------



## BradleyW

I just think the NF F12's give much better performance at a lower fan speed and reduced noise. But as long as the corsair fans work for you guy's then that's perfectly fine.
Has there been any cases of H100i pumps overheating? How hot do they run?


----------



## DUpgrade

I much rather use the Corsair SP120 quiet and AF140 quiet fans for the looks and silence. Those Noctua fans might be better on a performance level but they're more than likely louder and not attractive at all. I also think you can save a bit of money going with Corsair.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> I much rather use the Corsair SP120 quiet and AF140 quiet fans for the looks and silence. Those Noctua fans might be better on a performance level but they're more than likely louder and not attractive at all. I also think you can save a bit of money going with Corsair.


They are not louder at all. I own several SP 120's and SP 120 QE's. The NF F12's not only provide far less noise pollution, but they perform a lot better for me. I own 6 of them.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> They are not louder at all. I own several SP 120's and SP 120 QE's. The NF F12's not only provide far less noise pollution, but they perform a lot better for me. I own 6 of them.


Just curious, at what rpm do you run your NF-F12? I like mine, but I keep them under 1000 rpm to get them quiet enough for me.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Just curious, at what rpm do you run your NF-F12? I like mine, but I keep them under 1000 rpm to get them quiet enough for me.


I run them at 600rpm for gaming and 1500rpm for stress testing. However, 1200rpm (LNA) provides exceptional performance for the low noise level.
Do H100i pumps overheat if the block is covered or obstructed?


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Do H100i pumps overheat if the block is covered or obstructed?


Not as far as I know of because I've seen people cover them up with that 3m carbon fiber and it molds really well too.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Not as far as I know of because I've seen people cover them up with that 3m carbon fiber and it molds really well too.


Cool. Do you have a link?


----------



## ihatelolcats

the pump is cooled by the radiator too


----------



## Anoxy

edit: nvm idk why i would do that.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> the pump is cooled by the radiator too


How much does the pump heat contribute to CPU temps?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> How much does the pump heat contribute to CPU temps?


Hardly any, really. I have 2 AIO coolers in my case, along with an H100 on my cpu, temperature made no change. If anything, it was cooler after taking the stock heatsinks off my 6850's as it was no longer blowing hot air back into the case.


----------



## MrSharkington

Hi everyone...About 15 minutes ago i was aout to turn my computer off and decide just to take a look inside it and it came to my attention to find some sort of oily liquid on my h100i's fan. immediately i turned off my computer and unplugged it, i'm not sure if you can see it very well in the picture, but it seems to have come out of the h100i's radiator? thankfully it was vertically mounted so it didnt drip on anything but im in a bit of distress here guys...this was my first pc i ever built and is now leaking, i didnt think it'd be wise to leave it so what is your guys recommendations









EDIT: i've also tried tilting the rad and inspecting it for leaks or anything, and nothing else is coming out. stupid question but could it be a one off?


----------



## lordhinton

I've had them on fans before think its moisture could be wrong though


----------



## MrSharkington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> 
> 
> Hi everyone...About 15 minutes ago i was aout to turn my computer off and decide just to take a look inside it and it came to my attention to find some sort of oily liquid on my h100i's fan. immediately i turned off my computer and unplugged it, i'm not sure if you can see it very well in the picture, but it seems to have come out of the h100i's radiator? thankfully it was vertically mounted so it didnt drip on anything but im in a bit of distress here guys...this was my first pc i ever built and is now leaking, i didnt think it'd be wise to leave it so what is your guys recommendations
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: i've also tried tilting the rad and inspecting it for leaks or anything, and nothing else is coming out. stupid question but could it be a one off?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lordhinton*
> 
> I've had them on fans before think its moisture could be wrong though


well, its not leaking anywhere else still so maybe, i'll wait for someone elses input


----------



## ihatelolcats

if its oily its probably oil from the fan motor


----------



## MrSharkington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> if its oily its probably oil from the fan motor


i think you may be right, there is nothing on anything but the fan itself, do you think i should plug it back in and try?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> 
> 
> Hi everyone...About 15 minutes ago i was aout to turn my computer off and decide just to take a look inside it and it came to my attention to find some sort of oily liquid on my h100i's fan. immediately i turned off my computer and unplugged it, i'm not sure if you can see it very well in the picture, but it seems to have come out of the h100i's radiator? thankfully it was vertically mounted so it didnt drip on anything but im in a bit of distress here guys...this was my first pc i ever built and is now leaking, i didnt think it'd be wise to leave it so what is your guys recommendations
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: i've also tried tilting the rad and inspecting it for leaks or anything, and nothing else is coming out. stupid question but could it be a one off?


The picture is out of focus but I'm pretty sure, looking at the location where the "moisture" appeared, it is just excess oil from the fan motor. Nothing to worry about. It also happen to my H100's fans before. It will stop doing that after a while.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> The picture is out of focus but I'm pretty sure, looking at the location where the "moisture" appeared, it is just excess oil from the fan motor. Nothing to worry about. It also happen to my H100's fans before. It will stop doing that after a while.


Yes, this is just grease/oil from the fan. I would suggest running the fans at full speed for 24 hours outside the case to remove any other excessive oils.


----------



## MrSharkington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> The picture is out of focus but I'm pretty sure, looking at the location where the "moisture" appeared, it is just excess oil from the fan motor. Nothing to worry about. It also happen to my H100's fans before. It will stop doing that after a while.


Yeah sorry about the potato-quality picture lol, and ive looke daround and most people are saying it's fan oil. Thanks for everyones help though, better to be safe then sorry


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Hardly any, really. I have 2 AIO coolers in my case, along with an H100 on my cpu, temperature made no change. If anything, it was cooler after taking the stock heatsinks off my 6850's as it was no longer blowing hot air back into the case.


No, sorry I mean internally within the loop. how much does it affect temperatures?
Thank you.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> Yeah sorry about the potato-quality picture lol, and ive looke daround and most people are saying it's fan oil. Thanks for everyones help though, better to be safe then sorry


What you did after discovered the "moisture" is the right thing to do. I did the same thing. I inspected the tube & radiator thoroughly. No leak at all. When I inspect the "moisture" closely, it appeared to be an excess oil from the fan. I posted about this in this thread a while ago, including a link to a post I found in another forum about someone else having the same thing in the past with H100's fans. I wiped it clean & continue using them. After a while it will stop doing that.


----------



## MrSharkington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> What you did after discovered the "moisture" is the right thing to do. I did the same thing. I inspected the tube & radiator thoroughly. No leak at all. When I inspect the "moisture" closely, it appeared to be an excess oil from the fan. I posted about this in this thread a while ago, including a link to a post I found in another forum about someone else having the same thing in the past with H100's fans. I wiped it clean & continue using them. After a while it will stop doing that.


Glad to know that it's normal


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> 
> 
> Hi everyone...About 15 minutes ago i was aout to turn my computer off and decide just to take a look inside it and it came to my attention to find some sort of oily liquid on my h100i's fan. immediately i turned off my computer and unplugged it, i'm not sure if you can see it very well in the picture, but it seems to have come out of the h100i's radiator? thankfully it was vertically mounted so it didnt drip on anything but im in a bit of distress here guys...this was my first pc i ever built and is now leaking, i didnt think it'd be wise to leave it so what is your guys recommendations
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: i've also tried tilting the rad and inspecting it for leaks or anything, and nothing else is coming out. stupid question but could it be a one off?


All previous advice is pretty right on








*HERE* is the link that I think Kizwan is talking about.
I agree with most everyone that it is excessive fan oil. When I thought I had a leak similar to the one above, I confirmed it was indeed oil and not cooling fluid, by the tried and true "Smell Test".
Even though the fluid looked like it could be coolant it had a "Definite" petroleum smell and in fact turned out to be excessive fan oil









You could find more info/confirmation by searching this thread w/ "leaking radiator".

This one had a few guys panicked and fooled ... Kizwan and Tcat to the rescue


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> *HERE* is the link that I think Kizwan is talking about. You could find more info/confirmation by searching this thread w/ "leaking radiator"


Yeah, that's when I replied about the excess oil.







There is another post about the same thing in another forum which I thought I did posted the link here but look like I didn't.


----------



## DUpgrade

I've never used my stock fans with my H80i so not sure if mine have excessive oil or not. I'm only using the SP120 quiets and AF140 and have never seen anything besides dust collect on them.


----------



## Destrto

My fans on my H100 were the same way. A little excess oil during the first couple of days of running. Nothing major enough to drip onto other parts though, and after a couple of days it evaporated.


----------



## MrSharkington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> All previous advice is pretty right on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HERE* is the link that I think Kizwan is talking about.
> I agree with most everyone that it is excessive fan oil. When I thought I had a leak similar to the one above, I confirmed it was indeed oil and not cooling fluid, by the tried and true "Smell Test".
> Even though the fluid looked like it could be coolant it had a "Definite" petroleum smell and in fact turned out to be excessive fan oil
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could find more info/confirmation by searching this thread w/ "leaking radiator".
> 
> This one had a few guys panicked and fooled ... Kizwan and Tcat to the rescue


Glad that some of the people on here were quick repliers, I was about to take out everything to find ou where it was coming from


----------



## jonathan9590

So as you can see from my sig, i have pretty old hardware. But i just got the itch again and will slowly start to upgrade things here and there.

First i would like to get a H80i but have heard tons online about the back brackets/mount having spacing issues which causes loose contact with the chip and in turn causing high temps. And since i have an older motherboard i have my concerns.









Does anyone know if this is still an issue or if Corsair has addressed it? or should i just add in some washers to it like everyone else?


----------



## DeOmZ

Hi everyone. Sorry to switch to a different topic but I have some questions. I'm using 3570K overclock to 5GHz (1.438v) using H80i. Is it normal for the temp to reach 90c-95c







while doing a prime stress test? Thanks..


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonathan9590*
> 
> So as you can see from my sig, i have pretty old hardware. But i just got the itch again and will slowly start to upgrade things here and there.
> 
> First i would like to get a H80i but have heard tons online about the back brackets/mount having spacing issues which causes loose contact with the chip and in turn causing high temps. And since i have an older motherboard i have my concerns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if this is still an issue or if Corsair has addressed it? or should i just add in some washers to it like everyone else?


You can use plastic washers on the backplate to get it tight.
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=112940
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeOmZ*
> 
> Hi everyone. Sorry to switch to a different topic but I have some questions. I'm using 3570K overclock to 5GHz (1.438v) using H80i. Is it normal for the temp to reach 90c-95c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> while doing a prime stress test? Thanks..


That's normal with high overclock. Actually I think that's great temp @5GHz for IVY when fully loaded. What is your ambient & did you _delided_ your CPU?


----------



## DeOmZ

I did not delided my CPU because I'm afraid that it will void the warranty and just build my rig 3 months ago (1st timer). My ambient is around 27c-30c. Thanks for the reply. Now I know that my temp is normal.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeOmZ*
> 
> I did not delided my CPU because I'm afraid that it will void the warranty and just build my rig 3 months ago (1st timer). My ambient is around 27c-30c. Thanks for the reply. Now I know that my temp is normal.


Joining OCN should void your warranty.









Due to your higher ambient temp and the fact a non-delid Ivy runs hotter anyway, I would say your temps are what to expect at 5ghz. I would come down to something more stable for 24/7 use though.


----------



## DeOmZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Joining OCN should void your warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Due to your higher ambient temp and the fact a non-delid Ivy runs hotter anyway, I would say your temps are what to expect at 5ghz. I would come down to something more stable for 24/7 use though.


If joining OCN will void the warranty, screw the warranty then....hehehe.









If I can run prime 12-24hours straight does it mean that my CPU is stable @ 5Ghz?

I only reach this high temps on Prime. I played Crysis 3, BF3, Far Cry 3 but none of this games makes my CPU temp go over 70c even if I'm on 5Ghz. My idle temp is around 25c-40c. Do I still need to lower down my OC from 5Ghz?


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeOmZ*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Joining OCN should void your warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Due to your higher ambient temp and the fact a non-delid Ivy runs hotter anyway, I would say your temps are what to expect at 5ghz. I would come down to something more stable for 24/7 use though.
> 
> 
> 
> If joining OCN will void the warranty, screw the warranty then....hehehe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I can run prime 12-24hours straight does it mean that my CPU is stable @ 5Ghz?
> 
> I only reach this high temps on Prime. I played Crysis 3, BF3, Far Cry 3 but none of this games makes my CPU temp go over 70c even if I'm on 5Ghz. My idle temp is around 25c-40c. Do I still need to lower down my OC from 5Ghz?
Click to expand...

I know Prime95 is supposed to stress test a CPU and all, I like the quicker result from the Intel Burn Test. If you can pass this it's stable, but then again even the most stable OC can have issues when folding (if you decide to do that). Games don't really stress a CPU much, they're heavy on the GPU.


----------



## DeOmZ

I see.. Thanks for the info. How long do I need to run the Intel burn test.?


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeOmZ*
> 
> I see.. Thanks for the info. How long do I need to run the Intel burn test.?


Until it says pass or fails you due to instability.


----------



## DeOmZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Until it says pass or fails you due to instability.


I'm new to this IBT test, what option do i need to select and how many runs, threads, standard or very high?. Sorry for this noob question.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeOmZ*
> 
> I'm new to this IBT test, what option do i need to select and how many runs, threads, standard or very high?. Sorry for this noob question.


Standard setting when you first open it up is usually sufficient enough. Shouldnt have to change any settings. Just hit Run, or Start, whatever it says

To test more RAM, select a higher stress level setting, each run will take significantly longer, but itll stress your system more.


----------



## DeOmZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Standard setting when you first open it up is usually sufficient enough. Shouldnt have to change any settings. Just hit Run, or Start, whatever it says
> 
> To test more RAM, select a higher stress level setting, each run will take significantly longer, but itll stress your system more.


Ok. Thanks for the help guys,







I will do this IBT and if it fails then I'm gonna lower down my OC....


----------



## MrSharkington

Hi guys, one other question i've been wanting to ask is when i set the fans in corsair link to a fixed rpm (500), why is one always higher than the other?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeOmZ*
> 
> Ok. Thanks for the help guys,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will do this IBT and if it fails then I'm gonna lower down my OC....


Chances are if it passes Prime95, it'll pass IBT as well. Good luck!


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> Hi guys, one other question i've been wanting to ask is when i set the fans in corsair link to a fixed rpm (500), why is one always higher than the other?


Its possibly the 10% -/+ factor to all fans. Even exactly identical fans will run at slightly different RPMs even if you set them to run at the same.


----------



## MrSharkington

Good to know, thanks for your help


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> Good to know, thanks for your help


Not a problem, here to help.


----------



## BradleyW

Does anyone know any quick ways to attach 120mm fans to the H110 using household stuff?
Cheers.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Does anyone know any quick ways to attach 120mm fans to the H110 using household stuff?
> Cheers.


Zipties or if you have an old network cable that you can cut apart the wires inside are thin enough to wrap around them. I don't recommend glue.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Zipties or if you have an old network cable that you can cut apart the wires inside are thin enough to wrap around them. I don't recommend glue.


Like an Ethernet cable?


----------



## Fishinfan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> I have 4 chassis fan outputs and 2 cpus fan cpu plugs with my sabertooth, but you can use splitter
> something like this :
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812162026
> 
> or use a fan controller which you'll need in the future (trust me) these fans are LOUD and if you run them @100% all the time you wont really enjoy your water cooling quite experience, I lowered them to 800rpm and man what a difference.


Which fan controller do you guys suggest?


----------



## BradleyW

What are the best static pressure optimized fans for a *H110*?
Thank you.


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fishinfan*
> 
> Which fan controller do you guys suggest?


to be honest I'm looking for one too, I found few @ newegg but they look horrible, my fans are working fine now with asus ai suite for now till i fins something or make something myself.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> What are the best static pressure optimized fans for a *H110*?
> Thank you.


The one included are good enough, at least for me, but I heard the Nocta NF-A14 are better, never tried them before to judge myself
but from the specifications the NF-A14 have better static pressure than the AF140 1,51 mm/h2o vs stock .86 (IIRC)


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> to be honest I'm looking for one too, I found few @ newegg but they look horrible, my fans are working fine now with asus ai suite for now till i fins something or make something myself.
> The one included are good enough, at least for me, but I heard the Nocta NF-A14 are better, never tried them before to judge myself
> but from the specifications the NF-A14 have better static pressure than the AF140 1,51 mm/h2o vs stock .86 (IIRC)


Well, I've heard some fans can supply 2.5 static pressure but I don't know which. This is what I'm looking for. Thank you.

Edit:

What about these?
http://www.akasa.co.uk/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Fans&type_sub=PWM%20Control&model=AK-FN063


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Well, I've heard some fans can supply 2.5 static pressure but I don't know which. This is what I'm looking for. Thank you.


you live in EU, you guys have the Akasa Viper, it's rated at 3.12 and from their website the noise is in the acceptable range 26dba
http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Fans/140mm-Fans/Akasa-Viper-PWM-Luefter-gelb-140mm::17540.html


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Well, I've heard some fans can supply 2.5 static pressure but I don't know which. This is what I'm looking for. Thank you.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> What about these?
> http://www.akasa.co.uk/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Fans&type_sub=PWM%20Control&model=AK-FN063


i have 4x noctua nfa 14 pwm installed they are pretty good


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> you live in EU, you guys have the Akasa Viper, it's rated at 3.12 and from their website the noise is in the acceptable range 26dba
> http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Fans/140mm-Fans/Akasa-Viper-PWM-Luefter-gelb-140mm::17540.html


But how close is this actual fan to this specification? It seems like hell of a lot of power at a cheap price?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fishinfan*
> 
> Which fan controller do you guys suggest?


Do you want a manually controllable one like bay mounted? Or one that you just plug in your fans to and run full 12v?

THESE are the ones you just plug a Molex into and then your fans will run at 12V. I use one of these for my Antec 620 pumps.

THESE are various bay mounted controllers.


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> But how close is this actual fan to this specification? It seems like hell of a lot of power at a cheap price?


it should be close, but mind that these ratings are @ max speed.


----------



## ozzy1925

guys i want to ask my h110`s fan rotation is correct?

SAM_0533.JPG 6406k .JPG file
also insidebottom fans

SAM_0532.JPG 6319k .JPG file


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> guys i want to ask my h110`s fan rotation is correct?
> 
> SAM_0533.JPG 6406k .JPG file
> also insidebottom fans
> 
> SAM_0532.JPG 6319k .JPG file


that label up = pulling the air up


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> that label up = pulling the air up


i meant does it make difference if i turn them clockwise or counterclockwise?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> *it should be close*, but mind that these ratings are @ max speed.


I've heard the complete opposite?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeOmZ*
> 
> Hi everyone. Sorry to switch to a different topic but I have some questions. I'm using 3570K overclock to 5GHz (1.438v) using H80i. Is it normal for the temp to reach 90c-95c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> while doing a prime stress test? Thanks..
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DeOmZ*
> 
> If joining OCN will void the warranty, screw the warranty then....hehehe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I can run prime 12-24hours straight does it mean that my CPU is stable @ 5Ghz?
> 
> I only reach this high temps on Prime. I played Crysis 3, BF3, Far Cry 3 but none of this games makes my CPU temp go over 70c even if I'm on 5Ghz. My idle temp is around 25c-40c. Do I still need to lower down my OC from 5Ghz?
Click to expand...

You may be stable and these high load temps is what you'd expect pushing 1.438v through an Ivy Bridge processor, and that is fine for benching, but IMHO your temps are to High, or more importantly your voltage is to High without a custom loop to keep the load temps down for a stable 24/7 OC. I'd like to see your vcore at high 1.2**v or low 1.3**v for a 24/7 OC w/Ivy, just my opinion though







Also consider the "long term" stress on your motherboard at those voltages/temps. And if you run IBT at this voltage your temps could go well above 100c. IBT typically will raise temps 5c-10c+ higher than P95. Even if your main purpose is only gaming (max load 70c) I wouldn't want my P95 load temps higher than 80c-85c max for overall stability even with your somewhat high ambients (27c-30c) ... And for many of us w/more typical 22c ambients we usually strive for no more than 75c load temps for overall 24/7 stability. So I'd lower my vCore/OC until I achieved that threshold. I could go on and on but I recommend you read up by searching this thread with "IBT" like *HERE* *HERE* etc









Or you could reconsider D-liding your IB processor, some results are nothing short of amazing ... same goes for Haswell for all those that are debating an upgrade from Sandy ... *SEE HERE* ... Haswell *HERE*

You may find *THIS LINK* pretty helpful as well. It deals directly with a 3570K and how to become truly gaming stable with P95/IBT/Furmark etc. Very informative blog and he echoes a lot of what I've experienced building mid-high end rigs. To say that gaming doesn't stress the CPU much these days is a misnomer ... BF3 64multiplayer or even Serious Sam 3 anyone?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> To test more RAM, select a higher stress level setting, each run will take significantly longer, but itll stress your system more.


Doing this could push his temps well over 100c for "extended" periods of time ... not recommended.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Joining OCN should void your warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Due to your higher ambient temp and the fact a non-delid Ivy runs hotter anyway, I would say your temps are what to expect at 5ghz. I would come down to something *more stable* for 24/7 use though.


I think what you meant to say here is *"something with cooler CPU load temps for 24/7 use"*
because you can be stable at very high vCore but do you really want 95c+ temps 24/7?

EDIT(s): My apologies for not making my points "clear" (er) without writing pages of info ...
Hope you get the idea and you find this somewhat helpful


----------



## Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> well, its not leaking anywhere else still so maybe, i'll wait for someone elses input


Where exactly is it leaking? If the origin of the leak is from near the center of the fan, it's potentially the lubricant for the bearing of the fan.
Edit: didn't see the previous replies.


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> guys i want to ask my h110`s fan rotation is correct?
> 
> SAM_0533.JPG 6406k .JPG file
> also insidebottom fans
> 
> SAM_0532.JPG 6319k .JPG file


If you inspect the fans that came with the H110 you will see raised arrows in the plastic housing. This arrows will show fan rotation and direction of air flow. It took me forever to find them on my H110 stock fans, I was like whaaaaa and when I finally seen them I was like ahhhhhhh







watch for them, they blend well


----------



## BradleyW

So what do you all think of using 2x Asaka Viper 140mm fans with fan controller? I can't afford the Noctua fans.


----------



## cravinmild

They'll call you mellow yellow


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> They'll call you mellow yellow


haha!
Can we believe the static pressure rating from these fans?


----------



## theyoungone10

Has anyone had any trouble with their H80 fans spinning at 100% at all times? I tried resetting the firmware but that causes one fan to stop working and the other is controllable. Is this a fan issue or a controller issue?


----------



## cravinmild

Controller


----------



## theyoungone10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> Controller


I thought that too but I switched witch port each fan was connected to and got the same result. I don't know how a fan would cause this though


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> I know Prime95 is supposed to stress test a CPU and all, I like the quicker result from the Intel Burn Test. If you can pass this it's stable, but then again even the most stable OC can have issues when folding (if you decide to do that). Games don't really stress a CPU much, they're heavy on the GPU.


Just a note. Many games do work out a CPU quite well. Battlefield 3 is a good example. It would make my Core 2 Quad max out (even with 2 x HD6970 in cfx), which is why I bought an i5.

Although this guide is from OCN, I don't feel like looking for it so I will link to it on Tom's Hardware:

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/279408-29-bridge-overclocking-guide-3770k

He says lower in the article that

"TJ Max for Ivy Bridge is 105C, however you shouldn't go above 85-90C load when overclocking."

Which seems pretty reasonable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeOmZ*
> 
> I'm new to this IBT test, what option do i need to select and how many runs, threads, standard or very high?. Sorry for this noob question.


Set the stress level according to how much memory you have. This will further increase your load temp so keep an eye on it. My system temps are based on the highest setting (70c at 4.5GHz on an i5 2500k). I set myself a 73c limit for my cpu for maximum sustained temperature, and then set the clock to achieve that using my H100 cooler.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fishinfan*
> 
> Which fan controller do you guys suggest?


There are so many decent fan controllers that it's hard to just recommend one. Your best bet is to check out a few websites like Tiger and Egg, select a few you like, and then ask opinions.
In general though, you should look for a controller that has decent wattage per channel (this will allow you to connect more than one fan per channel if you desire, or connect high wattage fans).

Also, there are a few control options. Some controllers use buttons, some use knobs, some use sliders, some use touch screens. Some come with temperature sensors, some will control 4-pin PWM fans and some only 3-pin fans, and some will control both. Some controllers have displays to show RPM and /or temperatures. Some take two drive bays, some take one, and some are internal.

How many fans do you need to control? What type of fans are they? Do you want a minimal design or something a little more showy?

I've personally gone through about six fan controllers over the last two years, from different companies. All had their good points, and all were pretty different from each other. Right now I'm using this:

http://www.advancetec.co.uk/scythe-kama-master-flat-5-25-bay-four-channel-fan-controller.html

If I could have found it, I think I would have bought this one:

http://www.overclockers.com/scythe-kaze-master-ii

Note that neither of those are high wattage per channel controllers.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i meant does it make difference if i turn them clockwise or counterclockwise?


One direction will be intake and one will be exhaust. If you want positive pressure than make them intake, just be aware of dust issues (I recommend a dust filter on each intake fan). Intake should be fine in most instances for fans in that position.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> You may be stable and these high load temps is what you'd expect pushing 1.438v through an Ivy Bridge processor, and that is fine for benching, but IMHO your temps are to High, or more importantly your voltage is to High without a custom loop to keep the load temps down for a stable 24/7 OC. I'd like to see your vcore at high 1.2**v or low 1.3**v for a 24/7 OC w/Ivy, just my opinion though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also consider the "long term" stress on your motherboard at those voltages/temps.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> And if you run IBT at this voltage your temps could go well above 100c. IBT typically will raise temps 5c-10c+ higher than P95. Even if your main purpose is only gaming (max load 70c) I wouldn't want my P95 load temps higher than 80c-85c max for overall stability even with your somewhat high ambients (27c-30c) ... And for many of us w/more typical 22c ambients we usually strive for no more than 75c load temps for overall 24/7 stability. So I'd lower my vCore/OC until I achieved that threshold. I could go on and on but I recommend you read up by searching this thread with "IBT" like *HERE* *HERE* etc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you could reconsider D-liding your IB processor, some results are nothing short of amazing ... same goes for Haswell for all those that are debating an upgrade from Sandy ... *SEE HERE* ... Haswell *HERE*
> 
> You may find *THIS LINK* pretty helpful as well. It deals directly with a 3570K and how to become truly gaming stable with P95/IBT/Furmark etc. Very informative blog and he echoes a lot of what I've experienced building mid-high end rigs. To say that gaming doesn't stress the CPU much these days is a misnomer ... BF3 64multiplayer or even Serious Sam 3 anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doing this could push his temps well over 100c for "extended" periods of time ... not recommended.
> I think what you meant to say here is *"something with cooler CPU load temps for 24/7 use"*
> because you can be stable at very high vCore but do you really want 95c+ temps 24/7?
> 
> EDIT(s): My apologies for not making my points "clear" (er) without writing pages of info ...
> Hope you get the idea and you find this somewhat helpful


Good advice.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> So what do you all think of using 2x Asaka Viper 140mm fans with fan controller? I can't afford the Noctua fans.


Asaka has always been an ok brand for fans. Have you considered just using a PWM splitter with PWM fans? That would keep costs down by not requiring a fan controller, and automatically control the fan RPMs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theyoungone10*
> 
> I thought that too but I switched witch port each fan was connected to and got the same result. I don't know how a fan would cause this though


Are both fans 4-pin?

By "the same result", do you mean the same fan was acting up or the same port was acting up?


----------



## DeOmZ

I tried to do IBT and even on a "Standard" settings my temp became way hotter (100c+)







than Prime95. I managed to lower down my OC to 4.9Ghz @ 1.316v and it is more stable. I managed to run IBT and tried all the settings (Standard, Very High, Custom) and it did finish it w/out any errors and ended @ 93c. I did run Prime95 overnight, and it only hit 83c max which is way better than 90c+.

I think I'm just gonna stick w/ 4.9Ghz.









To wrap up everything, I'm very happy w/ Corsair H80i....









Thanks for the suggestions guys!!!!


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeOmZ*
> 
> I tried to do IBT and even on a "Standard" settings my temp became way hotter (100c+)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> than Prime95. I managed to lower down my OC to 4.9Ghz @ 1.316v and it is more stable. I managed to run IBT and tried all the settings (Standard, Very High, Custom) and it did finish it w/out any errors and ended @ 93c. I did run Prime95 overnight, and it only hit 83c max which is way better than 90c+.
> 
> I think I'm just gonna stick w/ 4.9Ghz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To wrap up everything, I'm very happy w/ Corsair H80i....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions guys!!!!


IBT will get your temps up a bit higher than Prime95.

Glad you're happy with the results!


----------



## theyoungone10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Are both fans 4-pin?
> 
> By "the same result", do you mean the same fan was acting up or the same port was acting up?


Both are the stock Corsair fans which I believe are 4 pin. The same fan is acting up. I'll try the fans on the motherboard header to see how they react.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> One direction will be intake and one will be exhaust. If you want positive pressure than make them intake, just be aware of dust issues (I recommend a dust filter on each intake fan). Intake should be fine in most instances for fans in that position.


i am using my h110 as push and pull here is the IBT test result 4.8mhz set to 1.310v from bios but when i check cpuz it says 1.320v
what you think :Should i pull and pull or push and push?

4.8 1.310.jpg 732k .jpg file


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeOmZ*
> 
> I tried to do IBT and even on a "Standard" settings my temp became way hotter (100c+)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> than Prime95. I managed to lower down my OC to 4.9Ghz @ 1.316v and it is more stable. I managed to run IBT and tried all the settings (Standard, Very High, Custom) and it did finish it w/out any errors and ended @ 93c. I did run Prime95 overnight, and it only hit 83c max which is way better than 90c+.
> 
> I think I'm just gonna stick w/ 4.9Ghz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To wrap up everything, I'm very happy w/ Corsair H80i....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions guys!!!!


As long as your CPU temp below 105C TJmax, it's fine because it still within Intel specification for Ivy. Intel processors have very good thermal protection. It will thermal throttling or thermal shutdown once CPU temp exceeds TJmax. Don't worry about the temp though. I agree with *TomcatV*, watch out the voltage, make sure it's not too high & reasonable for 24/7.

Your previous & current overclock (voltage & temp), look fine to me. 5GHz @1.438V does make your CPU running near TJmax with IBT. I would lower my overclock too since I like to have headroom. Per-IVY Bridge overclocking guide, recommended voltage for air & water cooling is 1.3 - 1.45V (as long as temperature is good) which well below Intel recommended max voltage (1.52V - Table 7-4 3rd gen Intel core datasheet).


----------



## BradleyW

Hello.
Which will perform better? 4x NF F12's with fan adaptors or 2 akasa viper 140mm fans for my H110?
Please note, if the vipers are used, the 4 NF F12's will be set as intake fans for my case.
Thank you


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hello.
> Which will perform better? 4x NF F12's with fan adaptors or 2 akasa viper 140mm fans for my H110?
> Please note, if the vipers are used, the 4 NF F12's will be set as intake fans for my case.
> Thank you


if you use 2x120mm fans into 2x140mm slot with an adapter the screws wont fit in to your case holes,you may need to drill new holes


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> if you use 2x120mm fans into 2x140mm slot with an adapter the screws wont fit in to your case holes,you may need to drill new holes


Good point. I've also noticed this and I've drawn up some plans.


----------



## DeOmZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> As long as your CPU temp below 105C TJmax, it's fine because it still within Intel specification for Ivy. Intel processors have very good thermal protection. It will thermal throttling or thermal shutdown once CPU temp exceeds TJmax. Don't worry about the temp though. I agree with *TomcatV*, watch out the voltage, make sure it's not too high & reasonable for 24/7.
> 
> Your previous & current overclock (voltage & temp), look fine to me. 5GHz @1.438V does make your CPU running near TJmax with IBT. I would lower my overclock too since I like to have headroom. Per-IVY Bridge overclocking guide, recommended voltage for air & water cooling is 1.3 - 1.45V (as long as temperature is good) which well below Intel recommended max voltage (1.52V - Table 7-4 3rd gen Intel core datasheet).


I know there's nothing much special w/ my rig but I just want to share some pics w/ my H80i...


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeOmZ*
> 
> I know there's nothing much special w/ my rig but I just want to share some pics w/ my H80i...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That look good actually.


----------



## BradleyW

My new H110 arrived today! Can't wait to stick some 140mm vipers in push pull on it!


----------



## DeOmZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> My new H110 arrived today! Can't wait to stick some 140mm vipers in push pull on it!


Wow that's nice!!!







Out of curiousity..Is there a lot of difference based on temp if I'll change to H110 from H80i?... I'm quite worried H110 might not fit in my casing..


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeOmZ*
> 
> Wow that's nice!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of curiousity..Is there a lot of difference based on temp if I'll change to H110 from H80i?... I'm quite worried H110 might not fit in my casing..


If you are worried, go with a H100i or a small custom loop, because the H110 uses a 280mm Rad which is not supported by a lot of cases because it's wider. However, I am moving from a H100i because the pump has started to whine and vibrate. The unit is also starting to under perform. But never the less, the H100i has been great until now and I'm sure the issue is only with my unit and not a global issue.









Edit: However, yeah the H100i can perform up to 20c better than the H80i and the H110 can be up to 6c better than the H100i. Plus, if you use very good fans on the H110, it will widen the gap even more between the H100i and the H110.


----------



## PedroC1999

My H100i can even keep my 6300 @ 1.6v under 70*C (Quiet Mode) So it is infact a very great cooler


----------



## DeOmZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> If you are worried, go with a H100i or a small custom loop, because the H110 uses a 280mm Rad which is not supported by a lot of cases because it's wider. However, I am moving from a H100i because the pump has started to whine and vibrate. The unit is also starting to under perform. But never the less, the H100i has been great until now and I'm sure the issue is only with my unit and not a global issue.


I see...thanks for the info...I'll stick to my H80i then...


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeOmZ*
> 
> I see...thanks for the info...I'll stick to my H80i then...


I updated my post.
Quote:


> Edit: However, yeah the H100i can perform up to 20c better than the H80i and the H110 can be up to 6c better than the H100i. Plus, if you use very good fans on the H110, it will widen the gap even more between the H100i and the H110.


Cheers.

Edit: In fact, I had seen a test whereby the H80i on stock fans ran a 3930k at 4.6Ghz and hit 95c in prime95 blend test after 30 minutes. The H100i was then tested with a pair of NF f12's and hit 71c. However I don't fully trust that because I've had 2 H100i's and my CPU at 1.37v @ 4.5GHz would hit 83c with Nf F12's. I also had lower ambient and far better airflow than the test rig used.


----------



## DeOmZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I updated my post.
> Cheers.
> 
> Edit: In fact, I had seen a test whereby the H80i on stock fans ran a 3930k at 4.6Ghz and hit 95c in prime95 blend test after 30 minutes. The H100i was then tested with a pair of NF f12's and hit 71c. However I don't fully trust that because I've had 2 H100i's and my CPU at 1.37v @ 4.5GHz would hit 83c with Nf F12's. I also had lower ambient and far better airflow than the test rig used.


Right now im running 4.9ghz in my 3570k @ 1.316v-1.37v and it only gives me 83c in prime and 93c+ in IBT.. All stock fan in my H80i..


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeOmZ*
> 
> I know there's nothing much special w/ my rig but I just want to share some pics w/ my H80i...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautiful job, especially for your 1st build








2nd pic = definition of a dominating "desktop" LoL







...
Also time to fill in your system specs ... see my signature









I like your final OC numbers/settings for 24/7 @4.9. You have a pretty nice chip there even with your somewhat high ambients your #'s are respectable. Maybe still a bit on the "Hot" side for me, but that's me. I know it's tough to give up that enviable 5.0 24/7 OC moniker, but now your IB and especially your mobo will live a much longer and happier life. On the other side Kizwan is right if you want to go for "Mad Clocking" you could push the Intel spec sheet, something I use to do all the time. I just thought we should lean more to the cautious side since this is your 1st beautiful new build! And honestly I never cut a CPU's life short by my standards (5+ years) but I know for a fact I shortened a few motherboards lives once I got out of custom loops and custom motherboard cooling blocks. And if your not de-liding and and down the road still want to push Intel spec, I highly recommend you get Intel's Performance Tuning Protection Plan.. ... See *HERE* ... Edit: ooops nevermind doesn't look like they still offer this for Ivy Bridge, at least I couldn't find it right away, maybe make a new post in Intel CPU's and see if any OCN user's could confirm or update that great program they had with Sandy Bridge/ SB-E









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Edit: However, yeah the H100i can perform up to 20c better than the H80i and the H110 can be up to 6c better than the H100i. Plus, if you use very good fans on the H110, it will widen the gap even more between the H100i and the H110.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> My new H110 arrived today! Can't wait to stick some 140mm vipers in push pull on it!
Click to expand...

Sorry Bradley I've got to step in here and call nonsense that an H100i will outperform an H80i by 20c degrees. Not even close, more like 3c-4c at most depending on set-up and overclock. Real world results here @ OCN and reviews suggest more equally comparable performance ... see *HERE*

It will be fun and informative to see your head to head results (screenies please) comparing your H100i to your new H110







see *HERE* post 22784 for detailed reporting/examples


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Beautiful job, especially for your 1st build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2nd pic = definition of a dominating "desktop" LoL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> Also time to fill in your system specs ... see my signature
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like your final OC numbers/settings for 24/7 @4.9. You have a pretty nice chip there even with your somewhat high ambients your #'s are respectable. Maybe still a bit on the "Hot" side for me, but that's me. I know it's tough to give up that enviable 5.0 24/7 OC moniker, but now your IB and especially your mobo will live a much longer and happier life. On the other side Kizwan is right if you want to go for "Mad Clocking" you could push the Intel spec sheet, something I use to do all the time. I just thought we should lean more to the cautious side since this is your 1st beautiful new build! And honestly I never cut a CPU's life short by my standards (5+ years) but I know for a fact I shortened a few motherboards lives once I got out of custom loops and custom motherboard cooling blocks. And if your not de-liding and and down the road still want to push Intel spec, I highly recommend you get Intel's Performance Tuning Protection Plan.. ... See *HERE* ... Edit: ooops nevermind doesn't look like they still offer this for Ivy Bridge, at least I couldn't find it right away, maybe make a new post in Intel CPU's and see if any OCN user's could confirm or update that great program they had with Sandy Bridge/ SB-E
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry Bradley I've got to step in here and call nonsense that an H100i will outperform an H80i by 20c degrees. Not even close, more like 3c-4c at most depending on set-up and overclock. Real world results here @ OCN and reviews suggest more equally comparable performance ... see *HERE*
> 
> It will be fun and informative to see your head to head results (screenies please) comparing your H100i to your new H110
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> see *HERE* post 22784 for detailed reporting/examples


Well yeah, I'm glad you stepped in because it also seems very odd to me as well, and this is what I was trying to say. This information was found on a Linus Tech Tips video. All his results just seem way off to me in just about every cooler review I've seen NCIX do.
For example, they had a 3960X or something like that at "around" 4.6Ghz
In prime95, they said the H100i scored 71c and the Tt Water 2.0 Extreme scored about 66c.
On this basis, I purchased both coolers and tested.
My results were as followed:
3930K @ 4.4Ghz, 1.35v
Tt water 2.0 Extreme = Fail, TJMax of 91c met.
H100i = 87c
Second H100i purchased and tested = 86c.
I even replaced my CPU for another 3930K and I tried all different thermal pastes and airflows/cases/open benches/NF F12's/ NF's in P/P, low rpm/high rpm and so on! I even matched their ambient to 17c!
I spent about £1,000 on coolers and other stuff to replicate their testing environment and I could not match it, even despite giving myself the advantages on open bench and push/pull.
They made a mistake with the H220 testing and they made a false claim about a certain keyboard using fake cherry MX keys. So I would not be surprised if they have made a LOT more mistakes.
I like their channel and reviews, but I have become very suspicious now.....

Look at this crap: Skip to 5:06
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWQGmX994fU

Edit:
I also forgot, I tested the H220 the same they tested. I hit 78c and i expected a score of 60c based on their testing.

Also, I will compare the H100i with the H110 for you all


----------



## kizwan

When Intel CPU working within the specification, it actually not pushing the chip to the limit. It in fact set well below the limit of the chip. I have three years old Intel CPU that running 99 - 100C most of the time & still working. TJmax is 100C & obviously it will throttling when it reached 100C. Even if I forced the clock modulation to 100% to prevent throttling, computer will shutdown after a couple of seconds. If you feeds too much voltage, then you can killed your CPU. That's what Intel recommended max voltage is for. That's when CPU start to degrade. Rule of thumb when overclocking is to use lowest Vcore as possible. When going for higher or extreme overclock, then make sure voltage is within the limit.

I agree running CPU overclocked at lower temperature for one or two reasons; I don't want performance effected because of thermal throttling & don't want data loss when computer shutdown abruptly because of thermal shutdown. If CPU working within specification, it will live for years.

[EDIT] Sorry for slightly off topic. I'll get back on topic in my next post.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> When Intel CPU working within the specification, it actually not pushing the chip to the limit. It in fact set well below the limit of the chip. I have three years old Intel CPU that running 99 - 100C most of the time & still working. TJmax is 100C & obviously it will throttling when it reached 100C. Even if I forced the clock modulation to 100% to prevent throttling, computer will shutdown after a couple of seconds. If you feeds too much voltage, then you can killed your CPU. That's what Intel recommended max voltage is for. That's when CPU start to degrade. Rule of thumb when overclocking is to use lowest Vcore as possible. When going for higher or extreme overclock, then make sure voltage is within the limit.
> 
> I agree running CPU overclocked at lower temperature for one or two reasons; I don't want performance effected because of thermal throttling & don't want data loss when computer shutdown abruptly because of thermal shutdown. If CPU working within specification, it will live for years.
> 
> [EDIT] Sorry for slightly off topic. I'll get back on topic in my next post.


Who was this in response to?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Well yeah, I'm glad you stepped in because it also seems very odd to me as well, and this is what I was trying to say. This information was found on a Linus Tech Tips video. All his results just seem way off to me in just about every cooler review I've seen NCIX do.
> For example, they had a 3960X or something like that at "around" 4.6Ghz
> In prime95, they said the H100i scored 71c and the Tt Water 2.0 Extreme scored about 66c.
> On this basis, I purchased both coolers and tested.
> My results were as followed:
> 3930K @ 4.4Ghz, 1.35v
> Tt water 2.0 Extreme = Fail, TJMax of 91c met.
> H100i = 87c
> Second H100i purchased and tested = 86c.
> I even replaced my CPU for another 3930K and I tried all different thermal pastes and airflows/cases/open benches/NF F12's/ NF's in P/P, low rpm/high rpm and so on! I even matched their ambient to 17c!
> I spent about £1,000 on coolers and other stuff to replicate their testing environment and I could not match it, even despite giving myself the advantages on open bench and push/pull.
> They made a mistake with the H220 testing and they made a false claim about a certain keyboard using fake cherry MX keys. So I would not be surprised if they have made a LOT more mistakes.
> I like their channel and reviews, but I have become very suspicious now.....
> 
> Look at this crap: Skip to 5:06
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWQGmX994fU
> 
> Edit:
> I also forgot, I tested the H220 the same they tested. I hit 78c and i expected a score of 60c based on their testing.
> 
> Also, I will compare the H100i with the H110 for you all


Well I've somewhat liked Linus NCIX in the past because of their high quality/easy to understand presentations ... BUT







some of his statistics/conclusions are "Dodgey" at best especially his original H220 review. Since then I've always taken his results with a big grain of salt









IE. Does anyone believe an H220 outperforms an H100i by 13c using the same Noctua fans







... and outperforms an H110 by 7c







... I sure don't and I'm a big fan of the H220 now that they have the bugs ironed out.

This is a much better/believable review *HERE* and *HERE* is Linus' bungled review, although I give him credit for professionally correcting his mistakes even though I DO NOT agree with his results









AND IMO, where everyone is being mislead about the H80i in his review [screenshot showing it at 25c+ behind all others] is because he doesn't make it *CLEAR that he is running a single fan only in a Pull config* ... NOT to H80i specs! That's the only explanation for the poor results? ... Additionally with the thickness of the H80i rad he'd pick up several degrees if he would reverse just the single fan and run it in Push even if it's still out of spec with only 1 fan. And I won't go into detail why I have issue's with his clammering for Pull only setups because he runs his setups as "Intake" only which many of us do not


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theyoungone10*
> 
> Both are the stock Corsair fans which I believe are 4 pin. The same fan is acting up. I'll try the fans on the motherboard header to see how they react.


It sounds like you have a bad PWM control line on your fan. It's a fairly unusual problem. It sort of sucks that you might have to deal with an RMA over just a faulty fan.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i am using my h110 as push and pull here is the IBT test result 4.8mhz set to 1.310v from bios but when i check cpuz it says 1.320v
> what you think :Should i pull and pull or push and push?
> 
> 4.8 1.310.jpg 732k .jpg file


I'm not quite getting your terminology.

You are using four fans on your H110 in push/pull, and you have it set to intake? If that's what you're saying, then I think your setup is fine.

If you are using two fans, personally I would set them as intake if I were using them in the same spot you are, and I would personally mount them under the rad so they are pulling air into the case but pushing it through the rad.

I can't seem to locate the picture you posted. Maybe you could post it again (just click the picture icon at the top of the editor)? Your temps looks fine to me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> If you are worried, go with a H100i or a small custom loop, because the H110 uses a 280mm Rad which is not supported by a lot of cases because it's wider. However, I am moving from a H100i because the pump has started to whine and vibrate. The unit is also starting to under perform. But never the less, the H100i has been great until now and I'm sure the issue is only with my unit and not a global issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: However, yeah the H100i can perform up to 20c better than the H80i and the H110 can be up to 6c better than the H100i. Plus, if you use very good fans on the H110, it will widen the gap even more between the H100i and the H110.


Hey, could you link me to where it says the H100i will perform up to 20c better than the H80? Because I think you're about 17c out of whack there. All the reviews I've read have shown those two coolers to perform very closely. Just remember that any comparisons between the two coolers have to use the same fans or they are invalid. Even the original H80 and H100 would perform between 3 and 5c of each other. I wouldn't trust any test that found a 20c difference.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Beautiful job, especially for your 1st build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2nd pic = definition of a dominating "desktop" LoL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> Also time to fill in your system specs ... see my signature
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like your final OC numbers/settings for 24/7 @4.9. You have a pretty nice chip there even with your somewhat high ambients your #'s are respectable. Maybe still a bit on the "Hot" side for me, but that's me. I know it's tough to give up that enviable 5.0 24/7 OC moniker, but now your IB and especially your mobo will live a much longer and happier life. On the other side Kizwan is right if you want to go for "Mad Clocking" you could push the Intel spec sheet, something I use to do all the time. I just thought we should lean more to the cautious side since this is your 1st beautiful new build! And honestly I never cut a CPU's life short by my standards (5+ years) but I know for a fact I shortened a few motherboards lives once I got out of custom loops and custom motherboard cooling blocks. And if your not de-liding and and down the road still want to push Intel spec, I highly recommend you get Intel's Performance Tuning Protection Plan.. ... See *HERE* ... Edit: ooops nevermind doesn't look like they still offer this for Ivy Bridge, at least I couldn't find it right away, maybe make a new post in Intel CPU's and see if any OCN user's could confirm or update that great program they had with Sandy Bridge/ SB-E
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry Bradley I've got to step in here and call nonsense that an H100i will outperform an H80i by 20c degrees. Not even close, more like 3c-4c at most depending on set-up and overclock. Real world results here @ OCN and reviews suggest more equally comparable performance ... see *HERE*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It will be fun and informative to see your head to head results (screenies please) comparing your H100i to your new H110
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> see *HERE* post 22784 for detailed reporting/examples


Agree 100%.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Well yeah, I'm glad you stepped in because it also seems very odd to me as well, and this is what I was trying to say. This information was found on a Linus Tech Tips video. All his results just seem way off to me in just about every cooler review I've seen NCIX do.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> For example, they had a 3960X or something like that at "around" 4.6Ghz
> In prime95, they said the H100i scored 71c and the Tt Water 2.0 Extreme scored about 66c.
> On this basis, I purchased both coolers and tested.
> My results were as followed:
> 3930K @ 4.4Ghz, 1.35v
> Tt water 2.0 Extreme = Fail, TJMax of 91c met.
> H100i = 87c
> Second H100i purchased and tested = 86c.
> I even replaced my CPU for another 3930K and I tried all different thermal pastes and airflows/cases/open benches/NF F12's/ NF's in P/P, low rpm/high rpm and so on! I even matched their ambient to 17c!
> I spent about £1,000 on coolers and other stuff to replicate their testing environment and I could not match it, even despite giving myself the advantages on open bench and push/pull.
> They made a mistake with the H220 testing and they made a false claim about a certain keyboard using fake cherry MX keys. So I would not be surprised if they have made a LOT more mistakes.
> I like their channel and reviews, but I have become very suspicious now.....
> 
> Look at this crap: Skip to 5:06
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWQGmX994fU
> 
> Edit:
> I also forgot, I tested the H220 the same they tested. I hit 78c and i expected a score of 60c based on their testing.
> 
> Also, I will compare the H100i with the H110 for you all


Thanks for clearing that up. Personally I recommend reading several reviews and comparisons specifically for this reason. You can usually get a great feel for how a cooler functions when you read multiple reviews, and it's a lot easier to pick out the bad reviews that are obviously in error when compared to multiple others.

For anyone trying to decide between an H80i or H100i, I've always said to choose the one that fits in your case the best unless you need every degree of cooling. The H100i will perform a little better, but both coolers are so close that if the H80i fits your case much better, then go ahead and use it. For a few more dollars, if the H100i will fit nicely in your case, then go for it. They're both great coolers.

If anyone is interested, here's an interesting site for specs for Intel CPUs:

http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/processors/core/CoreTechnicalResources.html


----------



## VettePilot

Just put a H110 in my case today. had to get rid of the 180mm fans on the bottom to fit it in but that is ok. Before with my Antec 620 at 5ghz I was seeing temps as high as 86c and with this cooler the highest spike was 77 at 1.43v which is a little more than the 1.42v I ran with the old cooler. I ran Aida64 and the avg temps across all cores on a short 11min run was 63c and temp in the room was around 26-28c. Idle temps are about 28-33. 4.7ghz at 1.375vcore I saw an average temp of 56c with a peak of 67c. Do these results seem about right? I was thinking about getting better Thermal paste but not sure if it would help much or which one to get. I thought maybe IC diamond?


----------



## DeOmZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Beautiful job, especially for your 1st build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2nd pic = definition of a dominating "desktop" LoL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> Also time to fill in your system specs ... see my signature
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like your final OC numbers/settings for 24/7 @4.9. You have a pretty nice chip there even with your somewhat high ambients your #'s are respectable. Maybe still a bit on the "Hot" side for me, but that's me. I know it's tough to give up that enviable 5.0 24/7 OC moniker, but now your IB and especially your mobo will live a much longer and happier life. On the other side Kizwan is right if you want to go for "Mad Clocking" you could push the Intel spec sheet, something I use to do all the time. I just thought we should lean more to the cautious side since this is your 1st beautiful new build! And honestly I never cut a CPU's life short by my standards (5+ years) but I know for a fact I shortened a few motherboards lives once I got out of custom loops and custom motherboard cooling blocks. And if your not de-liding and and down the road still want to push Intel spec, I highly recommend you get Intel's Performance Tuning Protection Plan.. ... See *HERE* ... Edit: ooops nevermind doesn't look like they still offer this for Ivy Bridge, at least I couldn't find it right away, maybe make a new post in Intel CPU's and see if any OCN user's could confirm or update that great program they had with Sandy Bridge/ SB-E
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry Bradley I've got to step in here and call nonsense that an H100i will outperform an H80i by 20c degrees. Not even close, more like 3c-4c at most depending on set-up and overclock. Real world results here @ OCN and reviews suggest more equally comparable performance ... see *HERE*
> 
> It will be fun and informative to see your head to head results (screenies please) comparing your H100i to your new H110
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> see *HERE* post 22784 for detailed reporting/examples


Thanks for the compliment specially the "2nd pic = definition of a dominating "desktop" LoL







... "... I cant argue with that....lol.









Also thanks for giving the link how to fill up the signature...believe it or not, I'm struggling how to put signature since I joined OCN...


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> Just put a H110 in my case today. had to get rid of the 180mm fans on the bottom to fit it in but that is ok. Before with my Antec 620 at 5ghz I was seeing temps as high as 86c and with this cooler the highest spike was 77 at 1.43v which is a little more than the 1.42v I ran with the old cooler. I ran Aida64 and the avg temps across all cores on a short 11min run was 63c and temp in the room was around 26-28c. Idle temps are about 28-33. 4.7ghz at 1.375vcore I saw an average temp of 56c with a peak of 67c. Do these results seem about right? I was thinking about getting better Thermal paste but not sure if it would help much or which one to get. I thought maybe IC diamond?


77C @5GHz in 28C ambient/room temperature look reasonable to me. Is that with Prime95 or IBT? IC Diamond is a good thermal paste, you may reduced temp a couple degrees. The stock thermal paste on Corsair Hydro series are very good though. No need to change thermal paste, IMO.


----------



## VettePilot

No I used Aida64. I was thinking I need to redo thermal paste even though I have never done it before because when I was putting the block in the case I nicked the thermal paste in a few places. thought that may have caused an issue.


----------



## BradleyW

Hey everyone. I've checked every review I can find on the H110 and it seems the stock configuration of the H110 vs the stock configuration of the H100i under high overclocked conditions show a difference of 5c. When paired with better fans, and better fans in push pull, the gap increases and it's consistently quieter (10-15dba).

Can't wait to test my H110. I will be using Asaka Viper 140mm fans in push pull with prime95 blend test, 20c ambient, 3930K at 4.5GHz HT, 1.37vcore.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> Just put a H110 in my case today. had to get rid of the 180mm fans on the bottom to fit it in but that is ok. Before with my Antec 620 at 5ghz I was seeing temps as high as 86c and with this cooler the highest spike was 77 at 1.43v which is a little more than the 1.42v I ran with the old cooler. I ran Aida64 and the avg temps across all cores on a short 11min run was 63c and temp in the room was around 26-28c. Idle temps are about 28-33. 4.7ghz at 1.375vcore I saw an average temp of 56c with a peak of 67c. Do these results seem about right? I was thinking about getting better Thermal paste but not sure if it would help much or which one to get. I thought maybe IC diamond?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> 77C @5GHz in 28C ambient/room temperature look reasonable to me. Is that with Prime95 or IBT? IC Diamond is a good thermal paste, you may reduced temp a couple degrees. The stock thermal paste on Corsair Hydro series are very good though. *No need to change thermal paste, IMO*.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> No I used Aida64. I was thinking I need to redo thermal paste even though I have never done it before because when I was putting the block in the case I nicked the thermal paste in a few places. thought that may have caused an issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I agree with Kizwan







...

But when it comes to cooling efficiency/diagnostics questions, it would be so much more helpful if people followed *[THESE]* guidelines when posting, with complete details and if you include screeshots we may pick up on something you missed. Heck the advise is FREE why not take advantage of it









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hey everyone. I've checked every review I can find on the H110 and it seems the stock configuration of the H110 vs the stock configuration of the H100i under high overclocked conditions show a difference of 5c. When paired with better fans, and better fans in push pull, the gap increases and it's consistently quieter (10-15dba).
> 
> Can't wait to test my H110. I will be using Asaka Viper 140mm fans in push pull with prime95 blend test, 20c ambient, 3930K at 4.5GHz HT, 1.37vcore.


Very Good ... I agree w/your pre-analysis







But your comparison will be "Real-World", much more interesting to me and many others ... so don't forget the *details and screenshots* ...see link above


----------



## VettePilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hey everyone. I've checked every review I can find on the H110 and it seems the stock configuration of the H110 vs the stock configuration of the H100i under high overclocked conditions show a difference of 5c. When paired with better fans, and better fans in push pull, the gap increases and it's consistently quieter (10-15dba).
> 
> Can't wait to test my H110. I will be using Asaka Viper 140mm fans in push pull with prime95 blend test, 20c ambient, 3930K at 4.5GHz HT, 1.37vcore.


I was thinking about getting different fans for this cooler and those look pretty good. Right now the stock ones are in push config then I put the only other fan I had in a pull which is a Thermaltake adjustable fan that goes up to 2500rpm I think. It is only 120mm though and I am not totally sure it is doing much.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> 77C @5GHz in 28C ambient/room temperature look reasonable to me. Is that with Prime95 or IBT? IC Diamond is a good thermal paste, you may reduced temp a couple degrees. The stock thermal paste on Corsair Hydro series are very good though. No need to change thermal paste, IMO.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> No I used Aida64.
Click to expand...

I think I owe Topgearfan an apology for dismissing Aida64 so quickly. I've been OC'ing for quite a long time and all sorts of "stress programs" come and go. What has been constant though is Prime95. But Aida64 has been around a long time too, it was part of Everest, maybe still is? Back in my fanatical days OC'ing with Opty's I use to use a version of aida64 but dropped it when it wasn't free $ anymore. I also didn't think it measured up to P95/IBT(agentgod) OCCT etc etc








Well I think I'm wrong ... well slightly wrong









I recommend everyone read "tw33k's" thread *[HERE]* ... I don't necessarily agree with everything he says, but it's a very good discussion on stress programs! The main points I got of it is Aida64 will heat your processor higher than P95 with Less Voltage .... hmmm. And it is very important to run the latest version of P95 [v27.9] as the instruction sets have changed significantly to where the load temps are getting very close to IBT/Aida64. And in the chart below, for those of you that don't know or ask where the heck is IBT in the chart, LinX and IBT are essentially the same program










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> I was thinking about getting different fans for this cooler and those look pretty good. Right now the stock ones are in push config then I put the only other fan I had in a pull which is a Thermaltake adjustable fan that goes up to 2500rpm I think. It is only 120mm though and I am not totally sure it is doing much.


I agree the Akasa 140mm vipers *[HERE]* look to be one of the highest spec 140mm radiator fans out there [3.12 mm H2O] and it is hard to find 140mm fans with good SP. It will be interesting to see what Bradley comes up with when he compares them to the stock H110 fans








I don't think the single Tt 120mm fan in pull is doing much either, but it would be interesting to see, so just turn it off (disconnect) for 5-10min and take another reading under load.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> No need for apologies I did run P95 yesterday and saw the temps were a bit lower than Aida64. The nice thing about P95 is that the temps tend to stay more consistent and stable and not jumping around like Aida. Makes it easier to see and understand what is going on for me with the temps. I am waiting to see what Ivy-E looks like and then change up to that and with that chip I will be more apt to make sure rock solid stability is there. *I honestly do not care about this old 2600k.lol*


Right-on ... Wrong forum, but hey unless your made of money, I wouldn't sell your SB 2600K so short ...








Sandy Bridge / (E) will end up being one of the best processors Intel ever built. Ivy Bridge is way over rated ... and if Ivy Bridge-E has the same crappy IHS attachment process and is probably going to use the same X79 chipset at launch then honestly I'd rather have a slightly used/new Sandy Bridge-E for about 40% less money (3960X eBay about $400-$500 less than 4960X will be) runs significantly cooler, while only giving up 1-4% performance depending on your applications, based on *THIS 2600K* vs IB OC review last year ...
Time will tell but the 2600K was and still is an EPIC chip. I still recommend Sandy Bridge over IB for all my builds when $$$ are a significant concern. I just picked up a 2600K lightly used for $205 for a recent build, less than a 3570K and it has it's 4 HT cores should you need them or not, works and OC's like a chip should, no mystery like you get with Ivy Bridge and weather it's a good one for OC or not


----------



## VettePilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I think I owe Topgearfan an apology for dismissing Aida64 so quickly. I've been OC'ing for quite a long time and all sorts of "stress programs" come and go. What has been constant though is Prime95. But Aida64 has been around a long time too, it was part of Everest, maybe still is? Back in my fanatical days OC'ing with Opty's I use to use a version of aida64 but dropped it when it wasn't free $ anymore. I also didn't think it measured up to P95/IBT(agentgod) OCCT etc etc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I think I'm wrong ... well slightly wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend everyone read "tw33k's" thread *[HERE]* ... I don't necessarily agree with everything he says, but it's a very good discussion on stress programs! The main points I got of it is Aida64 will heat your processor higher than P95 with Less Voltage .... hmmm. And it is very important to run the latest version of P95 [v27.9] as the instruction sets have changed significantly to where the load temps are getting very close to IBT/Aida64. And in the chart below, for those of you that don't know or ask where the heck is IBT in the chart, LinX and IBT are essentially the same program


No need for apologies I did run P95 yesterday and saw the temps were a bit lower than Aida64. The nice thing about P95 is that the temps tend to stay more consistent and stable and not jumping around like Aida. Makes it easier to see and understand what is going on for me with the temps. Since I do not leave my pc on for long periods or do any folding or anything like that the long stability tests are not what I want to do. If my PC is good for a couple of hours of gaming and then general photo editing without getting hot I am happy. I am waiting to see what Ivy-E looks like and then change up to that and with that chip I will be more apt to make sure rock solid stability is there. I honestly do not care about this old 2600k.lol


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> Just put a H110 in my case today. had to get rid of the 180mm fans on the bottom to fit it in but that is ok. Before with my Antec 620 at 5ghz I was seeing temps as high as 86c and with this cooler the highest spike was 77 at 1.43v which is a little more than the 1.42v I ran with the old cooler. I ran Aida64 and the avg temps across all cores on a short 11min run was 63c and temp in the room was around 26-28c. Idle temps are about 28-33. 4.7ghz at 1.375vcore I saw an average temp of 56c with a peak of 67c. Do these results seem about right? I was thinking about getting better Thermal paste but not sure if it would help much or which one to get. I thought maybe IC diamond?


The TIM Corsair uses on their newer coolers is Dow Corning, and is supposed to be as good as the best TIMs available. If you replace it, you're not going to see any difference just from the new TIM. Small nicks in the paste before you assemble the block shouldn't cause any problems as the paste spreads out after you tighten the block. Corsair puts a lot of paste on their new coolers. It should be OK unless you removed a lot before installation.


----------



## ihatelolcats

is it possible to swivel the h60 hoses all the way so that they are flat? rather than coming in from the top


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> is it possible to swivel the h60 hoses all the way so that they are flat? rather than coming in from the top


Probably not both of them, as one would bump into the other. Unless you did them in opposite directions, which then would cause the tube to look like a big loop on either side.


----------



## ihatelolcats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> is it possible to swivel the h60 hoses all the way so that they are flat? rather than coming in from the top
> 
> 
> 
> Probably not both of them, as one would bump into the other. Unless you did them in opposite directions, which then would cause the tube to look like a big loop on either side.
Click to expand...

thats what i mean. opposite directions. without breaking the swivels?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> thats what i mean. opposite directions. without breaking the swivels?


Yes. You might run into twist or binding issues with the tubing, but the swivels will rotate 360 degrees if there were no obstructions.


----------



## combatant3219

Anyone know if the tape for the H110 backplate is essential?

If it is needed what's a good alternative to the original tape?

About to set up my new 4770k rig but the old tape pretty much got destroyed when coming off my old rig.


----------



## Fishinfan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combatant3219*
> 
> Anyone know if the tape for the H110 backplate is essential?
> 
> If it is needed what's a good alternative to the original tape?
> 
> About to set up my new 4770k rig but the old tape pretty much got destroyed when coming off my old rig.


Buy some double-sided tape and you're all set.


----------



## combatant3219

So just any old double sided tape will do?

Does it serve any other purpose apart from holding the backplate on place?


----------



## Fishinfan

Any double sided would do


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combatant3219*
> 
> So just any old double sided tape will do?
> 
> Does it serve any other purpose apart from holding the backplate on place?


you don't actually need the tape, the only purpose it serve is holding the back plate in place while you assemble the everything together and tighten them.


----------



## combatant3219

So it's not for padding/protection of the motherboard or anything?


----------



## CannedBullets

I just ordered an H80i a couple days back. Is the Corsair Link software any good? I heard it was buggy.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I think I owe Topgearfan an apology for dismissing Aida64 so quickly. I've been OC'ing for quite a long time and all sorts of "stress programs" come and go. What has been constant though is Prime95. But Aida64 has been around a long time too, it was part of Everest, maybe still is? Back in my fanatical days OC'ing with Opty's I use to use a version of aida64 but dropped it when it wasn't free $ anymore. I also didn't think it measured up to P95/IBT(agentgod) OCCT etc etc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I think I'm wrong ... well slightly wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend everyone read "tw33k's" thread *[HERE]* ... I don't necessarily agree with everything he says, but it's a very good discussion on stress programs! The main points I got of it is Aida64 will heat your processor higher than P95 with Less Voltage .... hmmm. And it is very important to run the latest version of P95 [v27.9] as the instruction sets have changed significantly to where the load temps are getting very close to IBT/Aida64. And in the chart below, for those of you that don't know or ask where the heck is IBT in the chart, LinX and IBT are essentially the same program


I always get lower temp with Aida64, compared to Prime95. However, I didn't just select *Stress FPU* but also *Stress CPU*, *Stress cache* & *Stress system memory*. Also, the result is arguable because the tester doesn't use Prime95 with AVX support. I think I could run it again for one hour with just *Stress FPU* selected & compare it with Prime95 v27.9.

[EDIT] Unfortunately, I can't post the comparison here since I'm using custom loop now. Fortunately I have Aida64 screenshot (30 minutes) when using H100 but unfortunately, I don't have screenshot for Prime95. I only have screenshot for IBT (Very High setting) though.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> No need for apologies I did run P95 yesterday and saw the temps were a bit lower than Aida64. The nice thing about P95 is that the temps tend to stay more consistent and stable and not jumping around like Aida. Makes it easier to see and understand what is going on for me with the temps. Since I do not leave my pc on for long periods or do any folding or anything like that the long stability tests are not what I want to do. If my PC is good for a couple of hours of gaming and then general photo editing without getting hot I am happy. I am waiting to see what Ivy-E looks like and then change up to that and with that chip I will be more apt to make sure rock solid stability is there. I honestly do not care about this old 2600k.lol


To get max temperature, you can run Prime95 blend for 30 minutes or 1 hour or 2 hours.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> I just ordered an H80i a couple days back. Is the Corsair Link software any good? I heard it was buggy.


You only need the Corsair Link software to control the color of the LED and the profile for the fans (if they're hooked up to the block). It used to be really bad in that you couldn't control much with it but I think they've fixed most of the issues. The newer units all have the latest firmware to prevent the grinding noise prior due to a 12v issue overpowering the pump. I like mine, been using it for awhile now but will probably go custom loop here as soon as I can get the parts I want.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I always get lower temp with Aida64, compared to Prime95. However, I didn't just select *Stress FPU* but also *Stress CPU*, *Stress cache* & *Stress system memory*. Also, the result is arguable because the tester doesn't use Prime95 with AVX support. I think I could run it again for one hour with just *Stress FPU* selected & compare it with Prime95 v27.9.
> 
> [EDIT] Unfortunately, I can't post the comparison here since I'm using custom loop now. Fortunately I have Aida64 screenshot (30 minutes) when using H100 but unfortunately, I don't have screenshot for Prime95. I only have screenshot for IBT (Very High setting) though.


I think later on he did update to v27.9 w/AVX (see screenie), but I don't think it matters if you run a head to head comparison of Aida64 [stress FPU only] vs P95 [w/AVX support = v27.7 or later], on your rig if it's cooled by your custom loop or your old H100 for comparison sakes as long as it's apples to apples!

Prime 95 began it's AVX support in Dec/2011 with version 27.1 but only for 32bit. 64bit became available in Beta versions 27.3/27.4 in Feb/March of last year (2012) and was officially deemed stable in release of version 27.7 in May of last year. Remember back in the Sandy Bridge OC craze you would see a max load difference of 10c-12c (sometimes even higher in years before) between P95 and IBT, that's because most of us were running version 26.4 or 26.6 or older, both very popular versions without AVX support *and many people still are*







With P95 version 27.7 or the current 27.9 you "should" only see a max load difference of 4c-5c. I completely concur/confirm this in my own experiences. So make sure you update ALL versions of your testing software.

The main lesson here is Prime 95 is still the most common/reliable "single" program for stress testing your rig. Be it overclocks or cooling efficiency please include the results preferably with screenshots including at least CPU-Z/Real Temp or similar program(s). Include all your other stress results if you wish but don't leave out P95. *It is a language all overclockers understand.* I find it quite frustrating to help diagnose problems without this basic information, and along with "signature rig specs", I've included _**How to properly post your AIO cooler results/questions**_ with a link *[HERE]* . It's not complete or perfect so any suggestions/edits are welcome









I will also try to contact OverClocker55, who took over as new OP several months ago and get something on the 1st page after any new input, but I don't see him around much anymore. Heck we haven't even updated to include H90/H110 for membership. We might have to elect a new OP/moderator ... I nominate Mergatroid or even Ceadarman if we can get him back


----------



## BradleyW

Hey all. just got my new H110 and the pump is making a lot of gurgling noises. Not happy at all! Any suggestions?


----------



## ihatelolcats

vary the speed of the pump or tip the whole case to try to move the air bubble


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Hey all. just got my new H110 and the pump is making a lot of gurgling noises. Not happy at all! Any suggestions?


You can tap on the tubes or try to tip/move the rig about to help clear any trapped air bubbles in the pump. Turn the machine off for a few min so the fluid stops moving and then turn back on again and see if it's still doing it. Mine ususally does this only when it's first turned on because air gets stuck in it and until it passes it's going to make noise.


----------



## Buxty

Hey guys, I'm thinking of changing out my Hyper 212 for either a H80i or H100i and wanted to know what you guys would recommend for pretty heavy overclocking?


----------



## Fishinfan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm thinking of changing out my Hyper 212 for either a H80i or H100i and wanted to know what you guys would recommend for pretty heavy overclocking?


I would suggest a h110.I just bought one and my temps went from mid 120f to well under 100f.


----------



## DeOmZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm thinking of changing out my Hyper 212 for either a H80i or H100i and wanted to know what you guys would recommend for pretty heavy overclocking?


I suggest H100i if you have enough space on your case. I'm currently using H80i and I'm very happy about it.


----------



## khaosstrife

Hey i think the pump on my h100 just died but is still keeping things cool. Just everything is reporting the pump at 0 rpms and there is no vibration atty all coming from the block. I don't recall if there is suppose to be any or not. any tips to tell for sure?


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> I just ordered an H80i a couple days back. Is the Corsair Link software any good? I heard it was buggy.


It's a bit clunky, but it's been working well for the most part. The only issue I've had is that it doesn't always come back to life when I resume from sleep mode. The cooler works just fine, but the software disappears. To fix this, I've just setup a scheduled task for these executables:

- CorsairLINK2.exe
- CorsairLINK_HardwareMonitor.exe

Under the triggers section, set the following:

Begin the task: "On an event"
Log: System
Source: Power-Troubleshooter
Event ID: 1

Basically, this will run the above two tasks if your machine resumes from sleep mode. With that, Corsair Link (at least from what I can see) carries on working as usual.


----------



## VettePilot

Any suggestions on a good fan controller? I would prefer a 5.25" bay version. Looked at Aerocools at Frys but they do not seem to have good reviews.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I think later on he did update to v27.9 w/AVX (see screenie), but I don't think it matters if you run a head to head comparison of Aida64 [stress FPU only] vs P95 [w/AVX support = v27.7 or later], on your rig if it's cooled by your custom loop or your old H100 for comparison sakes as long as it's apples to apples!
> 
> Prime 95 began it's AVX support in Dec/2011 with version 27.1 but only for 32bit. 64bit became available in Beta versions 27.3/27.4 in Feb/March of last year (2012) and was officially deemed stable in release of version 27.7 in May of last year. Remember back in the Sandy Bridge OC craze you would see a max load difference of 10c-12c (sometimes even higher in years before) between P95 and IBT, that's because most of us were running version 26.4 or 26.6 or older, both very popular versions without AVX support *and many people still are*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With P95 version 27.7 or the current 27.9 you "should" only see a max load difference of 4c-5c. I completely concur/confirm this in my own experiences. So make sure you update ALL versions of your testing software.
> 
> The main lesson here is Prime 95 is still the most common/reliable "single" program for stress testing your rig. Be it overclocks or cooling efficiency please include the results preferably with screenshots including at least CPU-Z/Real Temp or similar program(s). Include all your other stress results if you wish but don't leave out P95. *It is a language all overclockers understand.*


Yes he did, at page 3. I missed that. I just ran Aida64 stress test & also re-run Prime95 with custom settings. The difference only 1C though. Aida64 does require slightly less voltage than Prime95. I posted the result here.

I agree, Prime95 is common stress testing program. Most of the cases I found on the forums, if it 12/24 hours Prime95 stable, the overclock really is 24/7 stable. There are some cases even it's Prime95 stable, it doesn't stable in games or less demanding application or when idle but these are in minority. There is good explanation though. We do know CPU has a lot of features which each one of them added complexity to overclock. Also, not to forget "silicon lottery". For example, when overclock, some CPUs unable to maintain stability when CPU power saving (C3/C6/C7) enabled. When stressing, in between tests, CPU only enter these states just for a moment & will immediately enter working state. While when gaming or running less demanding application or when idle, CPU will spends a lot of time in these states. The deeper the states the CPU cores in, the voltage for that cores also decreased & at C6 state, voltage for that core is reduced to almost zero (see Intel datasheet for your CPU, volume 1). For some CPUs, they will have problem maintaining stability when these settings enabled. The quality of power delivery (motherboard) also could explains this problem too. There are more than one variables to explain the problem.

In my opinion, stress test programs are for stress the CPU thoroughly to find any _weakness_ & heat is just side effect. Also, some overclockers like to run Prime95 custom test with high FFTs. I found high FFTs tests will produced less heat than low FFTs. VRMs also will run a lot cooler. These are useful when running Prime95 for 12/24 hours since ambient can change a lot during this time. I do find stress test programs that produce a lot of heat than others very useful when testing our cooling capability.

After moving to custom loop, I found Corsair H100 not too bad though. I can run my SB-E up to 4.7GHz in 31 - 32C ambient with reasonable temps with H100.


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> Hey i think the pump on my h100 just died but is still keeping things cool. Just everything is reporting the pump at 0 rpms and there is no vibration atty all coming from the block. I don't recall if there is suppose to be any or not. any tips to tell for sure?


try to switch to another fan port on your motherboard and see if theres a change, if pump dies then your temps should go up.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm thinking of changing out my Hyper 212 for either a H80i or H100i and wanted to know what you guys would recommend for pretty heavy overclocking?


H110 if your case can hold a 280mm rad, -> H100i if your case can support 240 -> H90 if your case can only support 140mm -> H80 for the 120mm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeOmZ*
> 
> I suggest H100i if you have enough space on your case. I'm currently using H80i and I'm very happy about it.


or H110 if you have space for 280mm Rad, it doesn't have the link software.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> Any suggestions on a good fan controller? I would prefer a 5.25" bay version. Looked at Aerocools at Frys but they do not seem to have good reviews.


make sure they are 4 pins if you are using your stock fans, most controllers i saw online are 3 pins only, check before you buy, and when you find something good please share it here, there are many people looking for a good 4 pins controller, myself included.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fishinfan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm thinking of changing out my Hyper 212 for either a H80i or H100i and wanted to know what you guys would recommend for pretty heavy overclocking?
> 
> 
> 
> I would suggest a h110.I just bought one and my temps went from mid 120f to well under 100f.
Click to expand...

Post your temps in C so everyone can follow.









To the OP, with a HAF XB I'm not sure how well you can fit a H100i in that but a H80i will fit just fine given it's bench style design. Are they for heavy OC? Most likely not, but it's better than a Hyper 212 (I had one of those too, great cooler).


----------



## Buxty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Post your temps in C so everyone can follow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To the OP, with a HAF XB I'm not sure how well you can fit a H100i in that but a H80i will fit just fine given it's bench style design. Are they for heavy OC? Most likely not, but it's better than a Hyper 212 (I had one of those too, great cooler).


It has support for 2x140mm fans up front so I imagine it would handle a H110. Is the performance diference much between that and the H100i?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> It has support for 2x140mm fans up front so I imagine it would handle a H110. Is the performance diference much between that and the H100i?


Corsair H110 will fit in Coolermaster HAF XB case. See *here*.

Corsair H100 in *Coolermaster HAF XB* case. H100i should fit too, obviously.


----------



## Buxty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Corsair H110 will fit in Coolermaster HAF XB case. See *here*.
> 
> Corsair H100 in *Coolermaster HAF XB* case. H100i should fit too, obviously.


Thanks for that i thought the H110 would fit







Would it be worth getting the H100i over the H110 to get the Link software or does it not make that much of a difference? Also what kind of temps do you get?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> vary the speed of the pump or tip the whole case to try to move the air bubble


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> You can tap on the tubes or try to tip/move the rig about to help clear any trapped air bubbles in the pump. Turn the machine off for a few min so the fluid stops moving and then turn back on again and see if it's still doing it. Mine ususally does this only when it's first turned on because air gets stuck in it and until it passes it's going to make noise.


Thanks all, it was air to blame. I heated the loop and now the pump is silent.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Thanks for that i thought the H110 would fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would it be worth getting the H100i over the H110 to get the Link software or does it not make that much of a difference? Also what kind of temps do you get?


I have Intel CPU. Not very useful to compare with AMD though. H110 have larger radiator surface compare with H100i but the difference in thermal performance between them only a couple of degrees.

*hexus.net review - thermal performance*


*hexus.net review - noise level*


*kitguru.net review - thermal performance*




*kitguru.net review - noise level*


I don't know how well the Corsair Link software. I'm also interested to try myself though. H110 is very simple. It doesn't have software & it seems running quieter than H100i.


----------



## DUpgrade

^ TBH the software is probably overrated but they're trying to sell other stuff that uses the Link modules and lights. With the H90 and H110 I would say marketing isn't working well they went back to old design. I would like Corsair to make a 3x120 rad cooler.


----------



## Buxty

Still helpful thanks man







The H80i seems to perform well with a single 120mm rad though...would it be worth hooking one of those up in the rear of my case and dropping some money on good front fans?


----------



## BradleyW

Ambient 20c
H100i - NF F12's 1500rpm push pull


Ambient 26c
H110 - Akasa Vipers full speed push pull


H100i pump noise, vibrations and background high pitch noise through the room. Noticeable when room is silent.
H110, no pump noise unless you stick your head in the chassis. (Once all air bubbles were gone)

Well, enjoy the screenshots!


----------



## VettePilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Ambient 20c
> H100i - NF F12's 1500rpm push pull
> 
> 
> Ambient 26c
> H110 - Akasa Vipers full speed push pull
> 
> 
> H100i pump noise, vibrations and background high pitch noise through the room. Noticeable when room is silent.
> H110, no pump noise unless you stick your head in the chassis. (Once all air bubbles were gone)
> 
> Well, enjoy the screenshots!


Nice results. Obvious difference there. Are you hooking the fans up to a fan controller or on the board itself? I know these fans are 4-pin connectors. Just wondering if hooking them directly to the PSU is the way to go or not. I am going to order 4 of these fans.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> Nice results. Obvious difference there. Are you hooking the fans up to a fan controller or on the board itself? I know these fans are 4-pin connectors. Just wondering if hooking them directly to the PSU is the way to go or not. I am going to order 4 of these fans.


4 of what? NF's or Vipers? If you are talking about Vipers, don't bother because they click as they turn, regardless of plugging them into the MB or FC. The fan blades are perfectly made, yet the frame and bearing if something I'd expect from a £1 fan.


----------



## VettePilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> 4 of what? NF's or Vipers? If you are talking about Vipers, don't bother because they click as they turn, regardless of plugging them into the MB or FC. The fan blades are perfectly made, yet the frame and bearing if something I'd expect from a £1 fan.


YA the vipers. That is a bummer though they make clicking sounds. I want to find some 140mm fans that are better than stock.


----------



## CannedBullets

So how loud is the H80i at max fan speed compared to the AMD stock fan or the stock fan for the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> YA the vipers. That is a bummer though they make clicking sounds. I want to find some 140mm fans that are better than stock.


Same, so I got myself 4 vipers, but they let me down in terms of sound and I think the static pressure is less than what is advertised. I'm going to get 4 NF A14 (PWM versions, harder to find) to replace the vipers.


----------



## VettePilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Same, so I got myself 4 vipers, but they let me down in terms of sound and I think the static pressure is less than what is advertised. I'm going to get 4 NF A14 (PWM versions, harder to find) to replace the vipers.


What about these. THey look to have higher static pressure but likely a bit louder. I care more about cooling though.


----------



## pc-illiterate

the pro's are the best bitfenix fans for sp. but they still arent that great. save money and buy yate loons or swiftech helix fans. great fasn. cheap quiet and strong.


----------



## VettePilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> the pro's are the best bitfenix fans for sp. but they still arent that great. save money and buy yate loons or swiftech helix fans. great fasn. cheap quiet and strong.


Really, but neither of those fans have good SP ratings. They are way under the Bitfenix rating, unless they are measuring in a different manner but I thought it was done to an industry standard.


----------



## pc-illiterate

lol. you can only rely on server fans for true accruate specs. everyone else 'lies' or exaggerates their specs. yate loons are the best price to performance ratio fans you can buy. they are almost as good as gentle typhoons at less than half the price. google fan reviews. almost every overclock and review site has them. few list the yates. look at martins.
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/9652/fantable124.png


----------



## VettePilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> lol. you can only rely on server fans for true accruate specs. everyone else 'lies' or exaggerates their specs. yate loons are the best price to performance ratio fans you can buy. they are almost as good as gentle typhoons at less than half the price. google fan reviews. almost every overclock and review site has them. few list the yates. look at martins.
> http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/9652/fantable124.png


Ya I was watching a review done on Linustechtips and he did use a fan test machine to test various fans and Yate loons were right on what they say they are and so were the corsair SP series which had the highest static pressure of any of the fans. The bitfenix were not out then though. May pick up a couple of the yates and then a couple of the AF140's from corsair. Some of the really good fans like the Scythes and Silverstone 140mm are 120mm mounts. Is there a big issue with using adapters with them?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I think later on he did update to v27.9 w/AVX (see screenie), but I don't think it matters if you run a head to head comparison of Aida64 [stress FPU only] vs P95 [w/AVX support = v27.7 or later], on your rig if it's cooled by your custom loop or your old H100 for comparison sakes as long as it's apples to apples!
> 
> Prime 95 began it's AVX support in Dec/2011 with version 27.1 but only for 32bit. 64bit became available in Beta versions 27.3/27.4 in Feb/March of last year (2012) and was officially deemed stable in release of version 27.7 in May of last year. Remember back in the Sandy Bridge OC craze you would see a max load difference of 10c-12c (sometimes even higher in years before) between P95 and IBT, that's because most of us were running version 26.4 or 26.6 or older, both very popular versions without AVX support *and many people still are*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With P95 version 27.7 or the current 27.9 you "should" only see a max load difference of 4c-5c. I completely concur/confirm this in my own experiences. So make sure you update ALL versions of your testing software.
> 
> The main lesson here is Prime 95 is still the most common/reliable "single" program for stress testing your rig. Be it overclocks or cooling efficiency please include the results preferably with screenshots including at least CPU-Z/Real Temp or similar program(s). Include all your other stress results if you wish but don't leave out P95. *It is a language all overclockers understand.* I find it quite frustrating to help diagnose problems without this basic information, and along with "signature rig specs", I've included _**How to properly post your AIO cooler results/questions**_ with a link *[HERE]* . It's not complete or perfect so any suggestions/edits are welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will also try to contact OverClocker55, who took over as new OP several months ago and get something on the 1st page after any new input, but I don't see him around much anymore. Heck we haven't even updated to include H90/H110 for membership. We might have to elect a new OP/moderator
> 
> 
> ... I nominate Mergatroid or even Ceadarman if we can get him back


I might be fun, but I really don't have enough reliable time to take care of a thread. Sometimes I can't get on for a few days. I've actually been thinking about reducing my time on some of the sites I frequent.

But I return the favor and nominate TomcatV, since you put so much effort in already and clearly have a good grasp of what's going on.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> Hey i think the pump on my h100 just died but is still keeping things cool. Just everything is reporting the pump at 0 rpms and there is no vibration atty all coming from the block. I don't recall if there is suppose to be any or not. any tips to tell for sure?


The pump can't be dead or your pc would shut down after a couple of minutes from overheating the cpu. I accidentally missed plugging in my pump one time (Doh!) and the PC shut down after a minute or so. The temps skyrocketed as well (just got a glance as the PC started shutting down). It doesn't take long to really heat up the water in the block if it's not moving. When it shut down, I could even smell the overheating block.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> Any suggestions on a good fan controller? I would prefer a 5.25" bay version. Looked at Aerocools at Frys but they do not seem to have good reviews.


I have the Aerocool StrikeX, which I really liked a lot. Unfortunately it wasn't built very well and I had to fix it the day it was delivered. It worked great for a couple of years until I connected an extra fan to one of the channels. That worked fine for a few months but eventually that channel died. I blame myself for that because I knew I was taking a chance when I connected two fans to one channel. When it was working 100% though, I loved it. It looked great in this case.



I stopped using it because I needed one of the bays it was using. I'm using a Scythe now.

If you want good quality, I would recommend Lamptron or Scythe. Believe it or not, Zalman makes a pretty good controller. I've used two of them, and although they don't have super high wattage per channel, they were very reliable and worked well (still going after two years). One of them has a wattage meter built in that will tell you the total wattage your system is using. That was actually pretty cool as I could see the difference when I replaced my video card, and then when I added a second one. The other Zalman I used had five channels, but the first channel was for a PWM fan. The nice thing about PWM is that, if you use the right kind of splitter, you can attach a lot of fans to a single channel without having to worry about wattage (that's 4-pin fans). You can adjust all the PWM fans by just adjusting that one channel. It also had four other channels for 3-pin fans.

At one time, I had so many fans in my case I was using both the StrikeX and the last Zalman I described:



Do you want a display? Or temperature sensors? Buttons or knobs, or touchscreen? Lots of choices out there. If you can come up with a little better idea of what you want in a controller, we might be able to come up with a better recommendation.


----------



## VettePilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I might be fun, but I really don't have enough reliable time to take care of a thread. Sometimes I can't get on for a few days. I've actually been thinking about reducing my time on some of the sites I frequent.
> 
> But I return the favor and nominate TomcatV, since you put so much effort in already and clearly have a good grasp of what's going on.
> The pump can't be dead or your pc would shut down after a couple of minutes from overheating the cpu. I accidentally missed plugging in my pump one time (Doh!) and the PC shut down after a minute or so. The temps skyrocketed as well (just got a glance as the PC started shutting down). It doesn't take long to really heat up the water in the block if it's not moving. When it shut down, I could even smell the overheating block.
> I have the Aerocool StrikeX, which I really liked a lot. Unfortunately it wasn't built very well and I had to fix it the day it was delivered. It worked great for a couple of years until I connected an extra fan to one of the channels. That worked fine for a few months but eventually that channel died. I blame myself for that because I knew I was taking a chance when I connected two fans to one channel. When it was working 100% though, I loved it. It looked great in this case.
> 
> 
> 
> I stopped using it because I needed one of the bays it was using. I'm using a Scythe now.
> 
> If you want good quality, I would recommend Lamptron or Scythe. Believe it or not, Zalman makes a pretty good controller. I've used two of them, and although they don't have super high wattage per channel, they were very reliable and worked well (still going after two years). One of them has a wattage meter built in that will tell you the total wattage your system is using. That was actually pretty cool as I could see the difference when I replaced my video card, and then when I added a second one. The other Zalman I used had five channels, but the first channel was for a PWM fan. The nice thing about PWM is that, if you use the right kind of splitter, you can attach a lot of fans to a single channel without having to worry about wattage (that's 4-pin fans). You can adjust all the PWM fans by just adjusting that one channel. It also had four other channels for 3-pin fans.
> 
> At one time, I had so many fans in my case I was using both the StrikeX and the last Zalman I described:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you want a display? Or temperature sensors? Buttons or knobs, or touchscreen? Lots of choices out there. If you can come up with a little better idea of what you want in a controller, we might be able to come up with a better recommendation.


Ya I would like a display and the PWM option and I am looking at the Aquaero 5 Pro since it seems to have a PWM channel and also it can be used for several other monitoring needs for water cooling. The price is much higher than most I know. I am not partial to touch or knob types so that doesn't matter really. Temp sensors would be nice to put in a cooling loop.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> What about these. THey look to have higher static pressure but likely a bit louder. I care more about cooling though.


Lot's of people tell me that these fans are horrid because the specs are higher than what you pay for, and many report ticking and vibrations. The only fans I trust now are the noctua's. However, even they tell fibs because they lie about the dba rating.


----------



## Dr Slaughter

Hi, everyone, Does anybody else here attempted to mod the Corsair H60 2nd gen? if then, link please...


----------



## khaosstrife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> The pump can't be dead or your pc would shut down after a couple of minutes from overheating the cpu. I accidentally missed plugging in my pump one time (Doh!) and the PC shut down after a minute or so. The temps skyrocketed as well (just got a glance as the PC started shutting down). It doesn't take long to really heat up the water in the block if it's not moving. When it shut down, I could even smell the overheating block.


Yes and no. And this is why: as long as there is some motion of fluid going whether it be by the pump or gravity it's enough to keep the core from overheating. As long as the fans are running I am idling at 100F with my i7 2600 and around 150F at full load with the pump reporting dead on all sensors to include the Corsair Link Commander. When unplugging the pump from the power source the temps stay the same as long as the fans are still powered on so this supports my original thought of the pump being bad. Why it would fail without warning is beyond me but with the lack of being able to replace the pump with ease is disappointing never the less. I was using this as an alternative until I could figure out what I wanted for my real cooling system which is going to be costly and not in the budget right now. The H100 is about 2 years old and should not have failed so quickly.


----------



## richie_2010

Rma it I got a brand new h100i back


----------



## cravinmild

My h100 died just outside a year. My h70 since launch has been rock solid


----------



## VettePilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Lot's of people tell me that these fans are horrid because the specs are higher than what you pay for, and many report ticking and vibrations. The only fans I trust now are the noctua's. However, even they tell fibs because they lie about the dba rating.


For me though the Noctuas have a face only a mother could love.lol I hate the colors. I may get some yate loons or try some Silverstone 141's.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> 4 of what? NF's or Vipers? If you are talking about Vipers, don't bother because they click as they turn, regardless of plugging them into the MB or FC. The fan blades are perfectly made, yet the frame and bearing if something I'd expect from a £1 fan.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Lot's of people tell me that these fans [BitfinixPro 140 PWM] are horrid because the specs are higher than what you pay for, and many report ticking and vibrations. The only fans I trust now are the noctua's. However, even they tell fibs because they lie about the dba rating.
Click to expand...

Well that answer's my original question of the Viper's being a good 140mm replacement fan. I had High hopes for them because of their reputation







And even though they make hideous noise's was their performance substantially better that the stock H110 fans ??? (details/numbers-temps/rpm etc/noise) What don't you like about the stock H110 fans in the 1st place?









As far as Bitfinix Pro 140mm fans, the only way to truly find out I guess is have someone you trust try them out. Because many reputable guys really like the 120mm versions. This is why it's important to answer in detail questions like the one above









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I might be fun, but I really don't have enough reliable time to take care of a thread. Sometimes I can't get on for a few days. I've actually been thinking about reducing my time on some of the sites I frequent.
> 
> But I return the favor and nominate TomcatV, since you put so much effort in already and clearly have a good grasp of what's going on.
> .


Well Thanks







But I'm in the same boat as you time constraint wise, and also need to allocate more time to other more profitable ventures. It takes real dedication to volunteer the time needed to do the job to our standards, especially if you've been spoiled by "paid" moderator jobs in the past


----------



## BradleyW

My new H110 with Noctua push pull (PWM 140mm version fans), purchased from noctua directly.


----------



## DUpgrade

^ Man that's a whole lot of Noctua ugly going on there. I kid of course but I do like those funny little baby ones on the mobo upper VRMs.


----------



## richie_2010

the only fan that's not noctua is your rear fan.
I have them on my h100 and there great, silent and keep cool


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> ^ Man that's a whole lot of Noctua ugly going on there. I kid of course but I do like those funny little baby ones on the mobo upper VRMs.


I love the Noctua colour, it stands out! Those little baby fans keep those MB VRM's from 140c to 60c full load and the fans use LNA's!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> the only fan that's not noctua is your rear fan.
> I have them on my h100 and there great, silent and keep cool


Yep, I have 2 shadow wings 140mm's version 2.


----------



## richie_2010

them lil fans are expesive though I was looking at getting some.

fans I found similar to noctua performance are the akasa apache 120mm fans, I used 2 on my 6950 rad and just as quite


----------



## VettePilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I love the Noctua colour, it stands out! Those little baby fans keep those MB VRM's from 140c to 60c full load and the fans use LNA's!
> Yep, I have 2 shadow wings 140mm's version 2.


Those the A14's? Any temp diff from the stock H110 fans?


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> the only fan that's not noctua is your rear fan.
> I have them on my h100 and there great, silent and keep cool


I am pretty sure those GPUs are stock fans. Wouldn't be shocking at all to see Noctuas strapped on to them at some point. That rear fan just blows, it doesn't suck like the rest. (See what I did there?







)


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> My new H110 with Noctua push pull (PWM 140mm version fans), purchased from noctua directly.


looking at that is like staring at s super hot naked chick while she slaps you in the face multiple times. Dang those fans ugly in that case but soooo sooo sweet


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> Ya I would like a display and the PWM option and I am looking at the Aquaero 5 Pro since it seems to have a PWM channel and also it can be used for several other monitoring needs for water cooling. The price is much higher than most I know. I am not partial to touch or knob types so that doesn't matter really. Temp sensors would be nice to put in a cooling loop.


I just looked up your choice and I think it looks really hot. Be sure to let us all know how you like it. Maybe write a mini review if you don't mind. I really like the unit you picked out. The two PWM outputs would be perfect for push/pull on a rad.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaosstrife*
> 
> Yes and no. And this is why: as long as there is some motion of fluid going whether it be by the pump or gravity it's enough to keep the core from overheating. As long as the fans are running I am idling at 100F with my i7 2600 and around 150F at full load with the pump reporting dead on all sensors to include the Corsair Link Commander. When unplugging the pump from the power source the temps stay the same as long as the fans are still powered on so this supports my original thought of the pump being bad. Why it would fail without warning is beyond me but with the lack of being able to replace the pump with ease is disappointing never the less. I was using this as an alternative until I could figure out what I wanted for my real cooling system which is going to be costly and not in the budget right now. The H100 is about 2 years old and should not have failed so quickly.


That's strange. I wonder what the difference is between the i5 and i7 we are using that prevents the i7 from overheating? If the pump in the H100 isn't working, there's nothing to cause the internal coolant to flow. Gravity won't do it. Did you unplug the connector that goes to the motherboard, or the molex power connector?
Considering that your idle temp (100f = 37.8c), without a working pump, is only 3c higher than my idle temp (34c at 23c amb) with a fully working H100, I find something wrong with this picture.

Your H100 has a five year warranty, so if you think it's not working (at the very least, the rpm signal seems to have failed) just contact Corsair and get it replaced.


----------



## Vulpix

Hey guys, I decided to join you folks with the Corsair H80i.



The installation is kinda weird though. It doesn't fix into place firmly when installing, and you can still move it about abit. I had to reapply it twice and push the CPU mount thingy towards the radiator before getting a good install.


----------



## Tater00nuts

You are talking about the block feeling loose right? You can use some motherboard washers to get the block to seat better.


----------



## Vulpix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tater00nuts*
> 
> You are talking about the block feeling loose right? You can use some motherboard washers to get the block to seat better.
> Like these


Nah, it's not a spacing issue. When you mount the H80i, it feels like the block can be moved around before you finally tighten it. I managed to misalign it the first time and it was really annoying.


----------



## DeOmZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vulpix*
> 
> Nah, it's not a spacing issue. When you mount the H80i, it feels like the block can be moved around before you finally tighten it. I managed to misalign it the first time and it was really annoying.


I think I experienced that before when I'm installing my H80i, but once I've tighten the screws, its rock solid and worked perfectly. Time to do some stress test.


----------



## Vulpix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeOmZ*
> 
> I think I experienced that before when I'm installing my H80i, but once I've tighten the screws, its rock solid and worked perfectly. Time to do some stress test.


Still wondering if I should remove the thermal paste on it, and redo it. The 2nd time I tried to realign it, I saw the thermal paste kinda spread on the CPU cage.







Temperatures look fine to me now, but I am kinda reluctant to clean away that shin-etsu thermal paste and replacing it with a MX4. Or is the MX4 better than the shin-etsu paste used on the H80i?


----------



## DeOmZ

The stock paste included in H80i is quite good but if you really need to redo it, then MX4 is better.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vulpix*
> 
> Still wondering if I should remove the thermal paste on it, and redo it. The 2nd time I tried to realign it, I saw the thermal paste kinda spread on the CPU cage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temperatures look fine to me now, but I am kinda reluctant to clean away that shin-etsu thermal paste and replacing it with a MX4. Or is the MX4 better than the shin-etsu paste used on the H80i?


That's ok. No need to re-apply/replace thermal paste.

I have use both MX4 & Shin-Etsu. I don't see MX4 better than Shin-Etsu.


----------



## DUpgrade

^ Certain kinds of Shin Etsu are not as good but I'm using x23-7783d on mine and it's just as good as the Dow Corning stuff they come with. As far as spacing the bracket is lose you get the screws started and tighten evenly like a tire.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> ^ Certain kinds of Shin Etsu are not as good but I'm using x23-7783d on mine and it's just as good as the Dow Corning stuff they come with. As far as spacing the bracket is lose you get the screws started and tighten evenly like a tire.


Yep, this is the best Shin Etsu paste for computing. Also, to comment on block contact and pressure, nobody should need washers for their Corsair closed loop systems, other than for the Radiator if you're screws are a bit too long. For those with poor contact, check for obstruction with capacitors on the board.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> ^ Certain kinds of Shin Etsu are not as good but I'm using x23-7783d on mine and it's just as good as the Dow Corning stuff they come with. As far as spacing the bracket is lose you get the screws started and tighten evenly like a tire.


I use Shin-Etsu G751. With MX-4, after a few re-seat, tried any methods I can think of (pea sized blob, line, thin layer, etc), none of the result show MX-4 better than Shin-Etsu. I'm sure some review would say otherwise but with the consistent result that I got, I'm pretty sure the result is not wrong.


----------



## VettePilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Yep, this is the best Shin Etsu paste for computing. Also, to comment on block contact and pressure, nobody should need washers for their Corsair closed loop systems, other than for the Radiator if you're screws are a bit too long. For those with poor contact, check for obstruction with capacitors on the board.


Do you use the pea method or spread it out? I may have to redo mine since for my case I had to mount the rad below the pump. My case wont allow for top mounting and I may get a new case this week. I think the mount location is starting to cause higher temps. Idle temps have gone up a few degrees. Load temps as well. The pump may be struggling.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> Do you use the pea method or spread it out? I may have to redo mine since for my case I had to mount the rad below the pump. My case wont allow for top mounting and I may get a new case this week. I think the mount location is starting to cause higher temps. Idle temps have gone up a few degrees. Load temps as well. The pump may be struggling.


Mounting radiator below the pump shouldn't hurt the pump. Does the temp gone up after re-mount the CPU block? I'm pretty sure you just need to re-apply thermal paste & re-seat the CPU block.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> Do you use the pea method or spread it out? I may have to redo mine since for my case I had to mount the rad below the pump. My case wont allow for top mounting and I may get a new case this week. I think the mount location is starting to cause higher temps. Idle temps have gone up a few degrees. Load temps as well. The pump may be struggling.
> 
> 
> 
> Mounting radiator below the pump shouldn't hurt the pump. Does the temp gone up after re-mount the CPU block? I'm pretty sure you just need to re-apply thermal paste & re-seat the CPU block.
Click to expand...

Pea method is just fine the compression between the block and IHS will spread it and the heat will even it out. Since it's AIO the tubes are forcing the liquid to the pump and it almost creates a syphon.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Well that answer's my original question of the Viper's being a good 140mm replacement fan. I had High hopes for them because of their reputation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *And even though they make hideous noise's was their performance substantially better that the stock H110 fans ??? (details/numbers-temps/rpm etc/noise) What don't you like about the stock H110 fans in the 1st place?*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> Those the A14's? *Any temp diff from the stock H110 fans*?


Hey Bradley are you going to make a detailed comment/review of the H110 Stock fans vs the Vipers vs the Noctua's??? We know that you prefer the Noctua's because of their quietness/performance, but what where the "straight up" performance/load numbers?
Please


----------



## VettePilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Mounting radiator below the pump shouldn't hurt the pump. Does the temp gone up after re-mount the CPU block? I'm pretty sure you just need to re-apply thermal paste & re-seat the CPU block.


I have not remounted it yet. I need thermal paste first. I was going to just grab some shin etsu 7783D from Fry's on Friday.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Pea method is just fine the compression between the block and IHS will spread it and the heat will even it out. Since it's AIO the tubes are forcing the liquid to the pump and it almost creates a syphon.


Cool I will use the pea method. I always like to let gravity do the work I guess and feel it is the best way, but with the right pump I suppose it is not a big issue as long as the tubes are not too large like you say these are not.


----------



## ozzy1925

anybody having trouble like me when removing the thermal paste from h110 cpu block ?i used coollab cleaning set with glass cleaner and here is the result :
will it effect the temps?


----------



## BradleyW

Those scratches? No it should not do anything to temps unless they are deep scratches.
Edit: Why won't my rig show up after my posts?


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Those scratches? No it should not do anything to temps unless they are deep scratches.
> Edit: Why won't my rig show up after my posts?


^ I 2nd that
and you'll need to edit your sig and add the rigs you have there (on the bottom).


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> anybody having trouble like me when removing the thermal paste from h110 cpu block ?i used coollab cleaning set with glass cleaner and here is the result :
> will it effect the temps?


As long as you removed all the thermal paste from the block, no - it will not affect the temp.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> ^ I 2nd that
> and you'll need to edit your sig and add the rigs you have there (on the bottom).


I did this but my sig rig won't show.


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I did this but my sig rig won't show.




Does your sig looks like this? :O


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Those scratches? No it should not do anything to temps unless they are deep scratches.
> Edit: Why won't my rig show up after my posts?


they are not deep
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> As long as you removed all the thermal paste from the block, no - it will not affect the temp.


yea i removed all paste with the phase 3 kit which is made for copper


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> they are not deep
> yea i removed all paste with the phase 3 kit which is made for copper


You're good to go!


----------



## BradleyW

You should just use alcohol rub in future for cleaning rather than using cleaning kits.


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> You should just use alcohol rub in future for cleaning rather than using cleaning kits.


What's wrong with cleaning kits? :O


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> I have not remounted it yet. I need thermal paste first. I was going to just grab some shin etsu 7783D from Fry's on Friday.


If you have not remounted the CPU block yet then the radiator probably have a lot of dust accumulated on it. My temp will increased a couple of degrees with the same reason too. Did you run fan as push or pull? With the radiator below the pump, it's not going to cause the pump to struggle. If this is true, then don't you think the pump will struggle too, when pushing the coolant to the radiator if radiator above the pump?


----------



## ozzy1925

i tried to add myself to the owners list but i couldnt see h110 in the application form


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i tried to add myself to the owners list but i couldnt see h110 in the application form


I don't think they have a form for the H110 model.


----------



## VettePilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> If you have not remounted the CPU block yet then the radiator probably have a lot of dust accumulated on it. My temp will increased a couple of degrees with the same reason too. Did you run fan as push or pull? With the radiator below the pump, it's not going to cause the pump to struggle. If this is true, then don't you think the pump will struggle too, when pushing the coolant to the radiator if radiator above the pump?


No it is brand new. no dust.


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> No it is brand new. no dust.


off topic question: how's it possible that you are using your EF-S on your 1D ? did you modify it ?


----------



## VettePilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> off topic question: how's it possible that you are using your EF-S on your 1D ? did you modify it ?


No I keep forgetting to edit that out. I gave that lens to my brother. I only have the 2 L lenses now. Fixed the sig info I am not really in the market for any new camera gear these days. The next lens I would want would set me back $13k, and I cant justify that right now or ever.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> What's wrong with cleaning kits? :O


Nothing wrong with them. Just rubbing alcohol does the same job and costs less.


----------



## ozzy1925

off topic but as i read using alcohol with coffe filter does great job but icant find any filters like this



only i can find this

will it do the same job without any scratch on the cpu and heatsink?


----------



## El-Fuego

you can use cloth if you cant find these smooth filters, dont use the paper one


----------



## VettePilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> off topic but as i read using alcohol with coffe filter does great job but icant find any filters like this
> 
> 
> 
> only i can find this
> 
> will it do the same job without any scratch on the cpu and heatsink?


I would get a microfiber towel or one of those sunglass lens cleaner towels that are almost like silk.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> you can use cloth if you cant find these smooth filters, dont use the paper one


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> I would get a microfiber towel or one of those sunglass lens cleaner towels that are almost like silk.


last time i used that sunglass lens cleaner and i scratch the heatsink


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> you can use cloth if you cant find these smooth filters, dont use the paper one
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> I would get a microfiber towel or one of those sunglass lens cleaner towels that are almost like silk.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> last time i used that sunglass lens cleaner and i scratch the heatsink
Click to expand...

I always use little cotton swabs (Q-tip) to clean off TIM. Small surface scratches are not an issue as you're still going to use some sort of TIM. This eliminates the gaps between the copper block and IHS. Use isopropyl alcohol 90%+ to get the best clean and once it evaporates apply your TIM to the IHS, not the block.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> No it is brand new. no dust.


Can you post screenshot of Real Temp or Core Temp? I'm interested to see minimum (idle) & maximum (load) temps. What is your ambient temp? How much the temp gone up? 2C? 3C?


----------



## VettePilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Can you post screenshot of Real Temp or Core Temp? I'm interested to see minimum (idle) & maximum (load) temps. What is your ambient temp? How much the temp gone up? 2C? 3C?


It went up about 4-5c at idle and sits usually around 33c when it was about 28-29 first installed last week. The A/C is usually on at 75 degrees F or I think 23c. I am going to try to get a couple SP120 with adapters this weekend just to see what those do. Most of the 140mm fans I am looking at have 120mm holes which really bugs me so I need an adapter anyway if I use any of those.

I was going to grab an fan controller from aquacomputer but I have been spending crazy money lately so I need to throttle down for a bit.


----------



## General121

And here I am, I've always used a paper towel to remove thermal paste and had no scratches or issues


----------



## BradleyW

I can hear bubbles in my loop again!


----------



## VettePilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I can hear bubbles in my loop again!


I am going to have to listen to mine close and see if I can hear anything tonight.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> I am going to have to listen to mine close and see if I can hear anything tonight.


Yeah, I am about 1m away from the pump and it is making funny noises, which tend to die down after a while.


----------



## VettePilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Yeah, I am about 1m away from the pump and it is making funny noises, which tend to die down after a while.


next time you hear it, just hit it with a hammer, that seems to fix most things.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> next time you hear it, just hit it with a hammer, that seems to fix most things.


It sorts itself out usually







cba to get my hammer.


----------



## pc-illiterate

i use 99% isopropyl alc and t.p(toilet paper, bathroom tissue) to clean off tim


----------



## DUpgrade

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i use 99% isopropyl alc and t.p(toilet paper, bathroom tissue) to clean off tim


I wouldn't use TP as the fibers break down easily. Cotton swab, soft paper towel, something that will hold together better.

You might want to consider an RMA on that unit if it keeps doing that on you. It's only going to get worse and never get better.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i use 99% isopropyl alc and t.p(toilet paper, bathroom tissue) to clean off tim


I wouldn't use TP as the fibers break down easily. Cotton swab, soft paper towel, something that will hold together better.


----------



## ihatelolcats

+1 for using hammer to fix computer

edit: also works great on cars


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*


I wouldn't use TP as the fibers break down easily. Cotton swab, soft paper towel, something that will hold together better.

You might want to consider an RMA on that unit if it keeps doing that on you. It's only going to get worse and never get better.
I wouldn't use TP as the fibers break down easily. Cotton swab, soft paper towel, something that will hold together better.[/quote]

ive used tp for 10+ years, only the brands have changed. currently we use charmin ultra strong and before that was cottonelle. it holds together fine unless youre removing baked on dried on tim. then you may as well scrape it off with a card first anyway.


----------



## ihatelolcats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't use TP as the fibers break down easily. Cotton swab, soft paper towel, something that will hold together better.
> 
> You might want to consider an RMA on that unit if it keeps doing that on you. It's only going to get worse and never get better.
> I wouldn't use TP as the fibers break down easily. Cotton swab, soft paper towel, something that will hold together better.
Click to expand...

*ive used tp for 10+ years, only the brands have changed. currently we use charmin ultra strong and before that was cottonelle. it holds together fine unless youre removing baked on dried on tim. then you may as well scrape it off with a card first anyway*.[/quote]

this is too much XD


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> I wouldn't use TP as the fibers break down easily. Cotton swab, soft paper towel, something that will hold together better.
> 
> 
> 
> ive used tp for 10+ years, only the brands have changed. currently we use charmin ultra strong and before that was cottonelle. it holds together fine unless youre removing baked on dried on tim. then you may as well scrape it off with a card first anyway.
Click to expand...

I've used TP for many years just not for removing TIM off the cooler and IHS.


----------



## Destrto

Anyone that has replaced the stock tubing on coolers like the H100, with its corrugated tubes, happen to be able to suggest a decent liquid or coolant to refill it with?

I have the replacement tubing (matches my Antecs tubing) and am just waiting to get a definitive answer on what I could use when refilling the pump and radiator.

Will distilled water be fine? That, I could get from the store. And not have to wait a week to order something through a site.

Tried asking in a couple other threads quite a while ago, but my post seemed to get lost in the other ongoing conversations at the time.


----------



## anubis1127

I wouldn't use just straight distilled, that would likely get nasty rather quick.

Can you just re-use the liquid? I have heard of people doing that before.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anubis1127*
> 
> I wouldn't use just straight distilled, that would likely get nasty rather quick.
> 
> Can you just re-use the liquid? I have heard of people doing that before.


I've heard a few people say distilled water will work fine in these AIO coolers. As far as reusing the liquid that is already inside, I doubt i would be able to get 100% of what comes out back in. Especially since it is such a small amount.


----------



## anubis1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I've heard a few people say distilled water will work fine in these AIO coolers. As far as reusing the liquid that is already inside, I doubt i would be able to get 100% of what comes out back in. Especially since it is such a small amount.


Yeah, I think the guy that I saw do that actually combined the liquid from two AIO units when he did it. It was a thread here on OCN, he had two of the AIO coolers, added his own tubing, and a little res too.


----------



## pc-illiterate

water down some anti-freeze. 20%-80% or maybe even 10%-90%. corsair uses an anti-corrosive i believe which anti-freeze has. and use the old green stuff. the new red/orange isnt the same.
DO NOT use dex-cool. it is bad for silicone and platicizes.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anubis1127*
> 
> Yeah, I think the guy that I saw do that actually combined the liquid from two AIO units when he did it. It was a thread here on OCN, he had two of the AIO coolers, added his own tubing, and a little res too.


Yea I've been trying to find that thread and look it over again. It's buried in my old subscriptions somewhere.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> water down some anti-freeze. 20%-80% or maybe even 10%-90%. corsair uses an anti-corrosive i believe which anti-freeze has. and use the old green stuff. the new red/orange isnt the same.
> DO NOT use dex-cool. it is bad for silicone and platicizes.


I might just have to try that. When you give those percentages, do you mean 10/90 with antifreeze as the 10? or opposite. If i try something like this with a homemade mixture, I want to be absolutely sure that I'm doing it right.


----------



## DJDropology

Im in


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Yeah, I am about 1m away from the pump and it is making funny noises, which tend to die down after a while.


You mean this noise? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtskKN2l3Fs


----------



## Lifeshield

How often do you guys whip the Radiatiors out and clean them?

Also do you find these to be noisier when the ambient room temperature is hotter?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> It went up about 4-5c at idle and sits usually around 33c when it was about 28-29 first installed last week. The A/C is usually on at 75 degrees F or I think 23c. I am going to try to get a couple SP120 with adapters this weekend just to see what those do. Most of the 140mm fans I am looking at have 120mm holes which really bugs me so I need an adapter anyway if I use any of those.
> 
> I was going to grab an fan controller from aquacomputer but I have been spending crazy money lately so I need to throttle down for a bit.


I don't know which Dow Corning TIM Corsair use on H110 but when I look at some of the Dow Corning TIMs, they have curing time. The TIM will be cured after a couple of thermal cycles. This explains why temps are now a couple degrees higher because the TIM is now cured & work at optimal performance now. With ambient 23C & idle around ~33C, delta is 10C which is in acceptable range. What is your load temp when CPU fully loaded (Prime95)?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Anyone that has replaced the stock tubing on coolers like the H100, with its corrugated tubes, happen to be able to suggest a decent liquid or coolant to refill it with?
> 
> I have the replacement tubing (matches my Antecs tubing) and am just waiting to get a definitive answer on what I could use when refilling the pump and radiator.
> 
> Will distilled water be fine? That, I could get from the store. And not have to wait a week to order something through a site.
> 
> Tried asking in a couple other threads quite a while ago, but my post seemed to get lost in the other ongoing conversations at the time.


I think *B NEG* already answered your question. The radiator is aluminium. So, car coolant which contain Ethylene Glycol should be suitable I think.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lifeshield*
> 
> How often do you guys whip the Radiatiors out and clean them?
> 
> Also do you find these to be noisier when the ambient room temperature is hotter?


I give the rad a blow once a month and I can't ever see much dust at all.
The noise is what you decide seen as the fans are PWM.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> You mean this noise? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtskKN2l3Fs


Yes a bit like that but slightly louder and less pitched. It is more of a dull noise. I'm pretty sure I have some air trapped again because I had to move my rad to switch my fans, which might have disturbed the water again.
Edit: Sorry for double post.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Yes a bit like that but slightly louder and less pitched. It is more of a dull noise. I'm pretty sure I have some air trapped again because I had to move my rad to switch my fans, which might have disturbed the water again.
> Edit: Sorry for double post.


i send that unit back and replaced with a new one.This one is better http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbIrzvzB8oQ


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i send that unit back and replaced with a new one.This one is better http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbIrzvzB8oQ


Is that a H110?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Is that a H110?


yes


----------



## BradleyW

I also have that cooler. My pump is not making any noises as such except the "normal" sound of the pump so it seems my air bubbles are slowly but surely being eaten.


----------



## VettePilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> You mean this noise? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtskKN2l3Fs


I can hear that same noise on mine. Thought it was a fan.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> I can hear that same noise on mine. Thought it was a fan.


its a common issue with h110 coolers i have a friend here using h110 and have the same noise try to lower the pump rpm to 1200rpm and check if the noise still there,If yes then rma


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> its a common issue with h110 coolers i have a friend here using h110 and have the same noise try to lower the pump rpm to 1200rpm and check if the noise still there,If yes then rma


But the video shows a H100i?
And how would you lower the pump speed on a H110?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> But the video shows a H100i?
> And how would you lower the pump speed on a H110?


if you are talking about this video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtskKN2l3Fs its uploaded by me and its h110 i could lower the speed from asus fanxpert 2


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I don't know which Dow Corning TIM Corsair use on H110 but when I look at some of the Dow Corning TIMs, they have curing time. The TIM will be cured after a couple of thermal cycles. This explains why temps are now a couple degrees higher because the TIM is now cured & work at optimal performance now. With ambient 23C & idle around ~33C, delta is 10C which is in acceptable range. What is your load temp when CPU fully loaded (Prime95)?
> I think *B NEG* already answered your question. The radiator is aluminium. So, car coolant which contain Ethylene Glycol should be suitable I think.


He just said glycol, but that was'nt a definitive answer to me. I never got any more details about it after that.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Anyone that has replaced the stock tubing on coolers like the H100, with its corrugated tubes, happen to be able to suggest a decent liquid or coolant to refill it with?
> 
> I have the replacement tubing (matches my Antecs tubing) and am just waiting to get a definitive answer on what I could use when refilling the pump and radiator.
> 
> Will distilled water be fine? That, I could get from the store. And not have to wait a week to order something through a site.
> 
> Tried asking in a couple other threads quite a while ago, but my post seemed to get lost in the other ongoing conversations at the time.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I've heard a few people say distilled water will work fine in these AIO coolers. As far as reusing the liquid that is already inside, I doubt i would be able to get 100% of what comes out back in. Especially since it is such a small amount.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> water down some anti-freeze. 20%-80% or maybe even 10%-90%. corsair uses an anti-corrosive i believe which anti-freeze has. and use the old green stuff. the new red/orange isnt the same.
> DO NOT use dex-cool. it is bad for silicone and platicizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

DO NOT use just plain distilled water either. Pc-illiterate is correct regarding anti-corrosives and probably has some "lubrication" properties as well for the pump.

If you used the old Corsair fluid, I think you'd be fine to top it off, makeup the difference, with "distilled" water as long as you still have 70-80% of your original fluid. If your going to reformulate new fluid why not call Corsair and see what they recommend?









Otherwise I agree with pc-illiterate (Kizwan green/ethelyne glycol) but I'd mix it 60/40 [60% antifreeze / 40% "Distilled" water]


----------



## justanoldman

Swiftech has told people that they could empty out their aio cooler, and reuse the solution. I would think the same would apply to Corsair. You would just empty it out, strain it through a coffee filter to get anything out that shouldn't be there, then use the fluid again. As TomcatV said, you can just top it off with distilled. The majority of these coolants are mostly distilled anyway.

After a lot of reading I came to the conclusion that plain distilled or distilled plus a kill coil were not the best way to go for a coolant. Reusing the stock fluid would work, or flush it out and use distilled with a good additive like PrimoChill Liquid Utopia.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> DO NOT use just plain distilled water either. Pc-illiterate is correct regarding anti-corrosives and probably has some "lubrication" properties as well for the pump.
> 
> If you used the old Corsair fluid, I think you'd be fine to top it off, makeup the difference, with "distilled" water as long as you still have 70-80% of your original fluid. If your going to reformulate new fluid why not call Corsair and see what they recommend?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise I agree with pc-illiterate (Kizwan green/ethelyne glycol) but I'd mix it 60/40 [60% antifreeze / 40% "Distilled" water]


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Swiftech has told people that they could empty out their aio cooler, and reuse the solution. I would think the same would apply to Corsair. You would just empty it out, strain it through a coffee filter to get anything out that shouldn't be there, then use the fluid again. As TomcatV said, you can just top it off with distilled. The majority of these coolants are mostly distilled anyway.
> 
> After a lot of reading I came to the conclusion that plain distilled or distilled plus a kill coil were not the best way to go for a coolant. Reusing the stock fluid would work, or flush it out and use distilled with a good additive like PrimoChill Liquid Utopia.


Alright, thanks guys. More information helps alot in understanding coolant. I appreciate it.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> if you are talking about this video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtskKN2l3Fs its uploaded by me and its h110 i could lower the speed from asus fanxpert 2


How though? Via PWM or Voltage?


----------



## Vulpix

Hey guys, did any of you replace the fans on the H80i? Or is the stock fan good enough?


----------



## GeneratorJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vulpix*
> 
> Hey guys, did any of you replace the fans on the H80i? Or is the stock fan good enough?


The stock fans of the H80i are good,they are a bit loud though.

Hydro Series H80i/H100i SP120L 2700 RPM PWM Fan (Stock Fans) Specs:
Max RPM: 2700 RPM
CFM: 74.42
Dimensions: 120mm X 120MM X 25MM
Connection: 4-PIN PWM
Fan Noise: 37.68 Dba

I replaced mine with a Corsair SP120 and its as if the fans are not even running, thats how quite they get.




Make sure you get the SP (Static Pressure) which is basically good on moving air through Radiators. The AF (Air Flow), which moves air better on open space, for intake or exhaust or just a extra air flow inside the case.


----------



## CannedBullets

Yeah I just installed the waterblock for my H80i, it was just annoying, the pipes kept bending outwards when I tried to put the waterblock in, hopefully its fine, when the waterblock was seated I had to move it slightly to the left to screw it in onto my new Sabertooth 990FX R2/GEN3. I'm hoping the motherboard didn't DOA when I put the rest tomorrow and I'm hoping I don't need to reseat the waterblock. I mean it would have been a lot easier if the waterblock didn't try to move because of the pipes. Yeah it looks like the CPU cooler is the most annoying part to install on a PC.

Also, my H80i only came with four washers instead of eight, so I had to improvise with some similarly sized washers my Dad has.


----------



## GeneratorJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Yeah I just installed the waterblock for my H80i, it was just annoying, the pipes kept bending outwards when I tried to put the waterblock in, hopefully its fine, when the waterblock was seated I had to move it slightly to the left to screw it in onto my new Sabertooth 990FX R2/GEN3. I'm hoping the motherboard didn't DOA when I put the rest tomorrow and I'm hoping I don't need to reseat the waterblock. I mean it would have been a lot easier if the waterblock didn't try to move because of the pipes. Yeah it looks like the CPU cooler is the most annoying part to install on a PC.
> 
> Also, my H80i only came with four washers instead of eight, so I had to improvise with some similarly sized washers my Dad has.


I'm not sure if you're aware of this but the pipes connected to the pump can be moved from left and right.

Here's a quick link from RWLabs of the review of the H80i, see the very bottom.

http://www.rwlabs.com/article.php?cat=&id=842&pagenumber=4


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneratorJ*
> 
> I'm not sure if you're aware of this but the pipes connected to the pump can be moved from left and right.
> 
> Here's a quick link from RWLabs of the review of the H80i, see the very bottom.
> 
> http://www.rwlabs.com/article.php?cat=&id=842&pagenumber=4


Yeah, but the pipes still wanted to move outward when I put the waterblock on. Well at least its on.


----------



## GeneratorJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Yeah, but the pipes still wanted to move outward when I put the waterblock on. Well at least its on.


Hmm thats a bit odd, coz mine dont do that.

Like you said, at least its on.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneratorJ*
> 
> Hmm thats a bit odd, coz mine dont do that.
> 
> Like you said, at least its on.


Yeah, I may have to reseat the heatsink because I'm not sure if there's too little. I had to reapply the thermal paste because I had to take the waterblock off the CPU. I'm not sure if there's too little thermal paste. I put Arctic Silver 5, my Dad came in and said I put too much (I used the middle dot method) so he had me clean the CPU and he applied the thermal paste the way he does at work. Yeah my Dad used the middle dot method but he put less then I normally would. The thermal paste should spread evenly though due to the force of the waterblock.


----------



## Destrto

I personally wouldve attached the stock heatsink first, since it is easier to remove and attach. To make sure everything worked properly, before attaching all the big hardware.

Also, once you have attached, and then removed the pump, you should reapply paste. Will be difficult to get full coverage of the paste if it's all been smeared around already.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I personally wouldve attached the stock heatsink first, since it is easier to remove and attach. To make sure everything worked properly, before attaching all the big hardware.
> 
> Also, once you have attached, and then removed the pump, you should reapply paste. Will be difficult to get full coverage of the paste if it's all been smeared around already.


Well I only had to slide the waterblock very slightly to the left when I had it mounted on the CPU to get the top latch to line up with the stock heatsink mount on the motherboard so I don't think its smeared. Yeah after the last time the TIM was applied I didn't take the waterblock off, I just slightly moved it to the left to get the top latch lined up.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GeneratorJ*
> 
> Hmm thats a bit odd, coz mine dont do that.
> 
> Like you said, at least its on.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I may have to reseat the heatsink because I'm not sure if there's too little. I had to reapply the thermal paste because I had to take the waterblock off the CPU. I'm not sure if there's too little thermal paste. I put Arctic Silver 5, my Dad came in and said I put too much (I used the middle dot method) so he had me clean the CPU and he applied the thermal paste the way he does at work. Yeah my Dad used the middle dot method but he put less then I normally would. The thermal paste should spread evenly though due to the force of the waterblock.
Click to expand...

You don't need a lot of TIM that's why the dot is plenty. Just make sure you tighten each corner evenly so that it spreads out. AS5 isn't going to be as good as the stock stuff that was on there and it requires about 200 hours of curing time before you'll see the true temps.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Well I only had to slide the waterblock very slightly to the left when I had it mounted on the CPU to get the top latch to line up with the stock heatsink mount on the motherboard so I don't think its smeared. Yeah after the last time the TIM was applied I didn't take the waterblock off, I just slightly moved it to the left to get the top latch lined up.


Ahh, ok, just sliding it around isn't a bad thing then since you didnt actually remove it completely. It should be fine.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> How though? Via PWM or Voltage?


pwm


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> He just said glycol, but that was'nt a definitive answer to me. I never got any more details about it after that.


The only glycol use in coolant, for example Mayhems XT-1 & car coolant, is Ethylene Glycol but yeah, the B NEG reply/answer somewhat is not "complete".
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Otherwise I agree with pc-illiterate (Kizwan green/ethelyne glycol) but I'd mix it 60/40 [60% antifreeze / 40% "Distilled" water]


I think it's safe to follow the instruction on the bottle (car coolant)?! Considering car radiator also aluminium. I don't remember the exact ratio but it's there on the bottle.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> The only glycol use in coolant, for example Mayhems XT-1 & car coolant, is Ethylene Glycol but yeah, the B NEG reply/answer somewhat is not "complete".
> I think it's safe to follow the instruction on the bottle (car coolant)?! Considering car radiator also aluminium. I don't remember the exact ratio but it's there on the bottle.


Alright. Thanks for the help. I appreciate it.


----------



## kikibgd

hey guys i just got my haswell rig build done
i got h70(no fans) in bundle pack with msi mpower max +4770k, since h70 came with no fans i put 2x Noctua nf-14 FLX fans and after 2 min of ibt i get 92c, radiator is pretty warm it is mounted correctly i checked it 3x already.

everything is running on stock voltage fans on 100%, is this normal? only thing i can think of is h70 is not cooling so good.


----------



## pc-illiterate

what is your ambient temp? that will have a major effect.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> hey guys i just got my haswell rig build done
> i got h70(no fans) in bundle pack with msi mpower max +4770k, since h70 came with no fans i put 2x Noctua nf-14 FLX fans and after 2 min of ibt i get 92c, radiator is pretty warm it is mounted correctly i checked it 3x already.
> 
> everything is running on stock voltage fans on 100%, is this normal? only thing i can think of is h70 is not cooling so good.


IIRC, the H70 uses the 3-pin TX3 connector? Check the BIOS to make sure there is no fan speed control on the header you have it plugged into (i.e. make sure the pump is running full speed).


----------



## kikibgd

ok fans are plugged into corsair splitter and running full speed. i will check but i see its at 100%


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> ok fans are plugged into corsair splitter and running full speed. i will check but i see its at 100%


I believe he was refering to make sure the pump is running at full speed.


----------



## CannedBullets

So I have my PC up and running with an H80i on a Sabertooth 990FX GEN3/R2 and an FX-6300 on stock. I have the fans set to performance mode and after a few hours of downloading updates its at 39 degrees C socket temp and around 14 degrees CPU core temp. Is that normal?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So I have my PC up and running with an H80i on a Sabertooth 990FX GEN3/R2 and an FX-6300 on stock. I have the fans set to performance mode and after a few hours of downloading updates its at 39 degrees C socket temp and around 14 degrees CPU core temp. Is that normal?


Yes


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Yes


Really? Its not better than my old Hyper 212 EVO. And now its saying its at 40 degrees C, which makes it worse than my Hyper 212 EVO. Crap, I might have to re-apply thermal paste.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Really? Its not better than my old Hyper 212 EVO. And now its saying its at 40 degrees C, which makes it worse than my Hyper 212 EVO. Crap, I might have to re-apply thermal paste.


It is fine. At stock clocks, and not being pushed at load, you will not get any lower than your ambient temps.

AMD boards have wonky temp sensors (something I learned from other members of OCN) below approximately 30C. So until your CPU gets under load, or is overclocked, you won't notice much of a difference between different coolers. That is completely normal.


----------



## CannedBullets

Alright, but just to be safe I'm running a P95 small ffts test right now. The socket temp is about 48 C right now.


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Alright, but just to be safe I'm running a P95 small ffts test right now. The socket temp is about 48 C right now.


That's perfectly normal.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> That's perfectly normal.


^ This


----------



## CannedBullets

Well ,alright then. Yeah I've been running P95 small FFTS for about 15 to 20 minutes. Temps are at 50 C socket and 40 C core temp.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Well ,alright then. Yeah I've been running P95 small FFTS for about 15 to 20 minutes. Temps are at 50 C socket and 40 C core temp.


Again, normal.

No need to freak until your Core temp hits something like 80C.. Then you can freak out.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Again, normal.
> 
> No need to freak until your Core temp hits something like 80C.. Then you can freak out.


Yeah its just that its been gradually rising, the socket temp didn't stop at 48 C or 50 C, its at 51 C right now but the core temp hasn't gotten above 40 C.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Yeah its just that its been gradually rising, the socket temp didn't stop at 48 C or 50 C, its at 51 C right now but the core temp hasn't gotten above 40 C.


Still normal. You are running a stress test.. It is stressing the system. The longer it stresses, the higher it will rise. Socket is the VRM temp. That heatsink next to the CPU. Put a small fan on top of it, or behind the motherboard to help cool it off. Follow the advice you've been given, and you'll be fine.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Still normal. You are running a stress test.. It is stressing the system. The longer it stresses, the higher it will rise. Socket is the VRM temp. That heatsink next to the CPU. Put a small fan on top of it, or behind the motherboard to help cool it off. Follow the advice you've been given, and you'll be fine.


Yeah, but I won't be surprised if I have to reseat the waterclock. I'm not sure if I can fit an AMD stock CPU fan on the VRM because of hte radiotor, but I think a fan behind the motherboard could be doable if I cut a vent into the case panel.

Also, what are some good fans for an H80i? Something that cools better and is quieter.

I've been looking at this.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835129056&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Yeah, but I won't be surprised if I have to reseat the waterclock. I'm not sure if I can fit an AMD stock CPU fan on the VRM because of hte radiotor, but I think a fan behind the motherboard could be doable if I cut a vent into the case panel.
> 
> Also, what are some good fans for an H80i? Something that cools better and is quieter.
> 
> I've been looking at this.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835129056&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=


You're looking at the temps and getting too overworked. They are fine. You've been in the overclocking thread long enough to know this.

I've heard Gentle Typhoons and Yate Loons are decent fans with good Static Pressure. That is just what I've heard though.

I keep my fans on my H100 on low, and never run into temp issues. And I'm running my 8120 at 4.5Ghz.


----------



## Buxty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I keep my fans on my H100 on low, and never run into temp issues. And I'm running my 8120 at 4.5Ghz.


Just thought i'd jump in here as its relevant for me, how much headroom is there for you to overclock on the H100 with the 8120?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> You're looking at the temps and getting too overworked. They are fine. You've been in the overclocking thread long enough to know this.
> 
> I've heard Gentle Typhoons and Yate Loons are decent fans with good Static Pressure. That is just what I've heard though.
> 
> I keep my fans on my H100 on low, and never run into temp issues. And I'm running my 8120 at 4.5Ghz.


*THIS* ... and all of Destro's advice for you has been right on, but try running your stock H80i fans on low-medium and I bet you'll find your temps are acceptable with much less noise. The stock fans are pretty nice overall when everything is setup right. Those aerocool shark fans are case ventilation fans that are not optimized for radiator cooling with sufficient "static pressure" (SP).

Its good you got off the idle temps concern and focused on load temps. P95 is a good start, more complete reporting info parameters *[HERE]* and in my sig ...


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Just thought i'd jump in here as its relevant for me, how much headroom is there for you to overclock on the H100 with the 8120?


For my board, 4.5Ghz is the limit. I tried 4.6 but the temps rose too high during stress tests, and there were too many instances of instability.

I've tried a fan on the NB heatsink next to the CPU, different settings in BIOS, and it still couldnt offer enough cooling or tweaks to hit any higher than 4.5.


----------



## Buxty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> For my board, 4.5Ghz is the limit. I tried 4.6 but the temps rose too high during stress tests, and there were too many instances of instability.
> 
> I've tried a fan on the NB heatsink next to the CPU, different settings in BIOS, and it still couldnt offer enough cooling or tweaks to hit any higher than 4.5.


Ah i think i'll have to replace my mobo before changing to an AIO as i think i've almost hit the limit on 4.4 with a Hyper


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Ah i think i'll have to replace my mobo before changing to an AIO as i think i've almost hit the limit on 4.4 with a Hyper


I would agree with you then. My temps during normal gaming are very good, I rarely hit over 50C on the Core temp with the fans set to low.. But stressing with IBT or Prime95 reaches the thermal limit at 4.5Ghz.


----------



## Asiqduah

H80 doing what it does best. Add me prease


----------



## CannedBullets

Just asking, is the H80i radiator supposed to vibrate? Because I just felt it and there was no vibration, also I have my H80i set up as a push pull exhaust system. Yeah the air being blown from the fans are cold, not warm or hot. Is that normal?

Also, I think the Sabertooth 990FX's temp sensors at idle might be more inaccurate than my old ASRock 970 Extreme3 at idle, right now its saying the socket temp is at 40 C, but if it was really 40 C my case side panel would have felt warmer. Then again the old case was a Zalman Z9 and I'm on a Corsair 200R right now.

Yeah I'll probably do TomcatV's reporting system sometime on Sunday.

Also when I can I'll probably get two of these to replace the H80i fans. I got used to the noise but quieter and more powerful fans would be nice.

http://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-120mm-25mm/dp/B001Q6RUVO


----------



## DeOmZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Just asking, is the H80i radiator supposed to vibrate? Because I just felt it and there was no vibration, also I have my H80i set up as a push pull exhaust system. Yeah the air being blown from the fans are cold, not warm or hot. Is that normal?
> 
> Also, I think the Sabertooth 990FX's temp sensors at idle might be more inaccurate than my old ASRock 970 Extreme3 at idle, right now its saying the socket temp is at 40 C, but if it was really 40 C my case side panel would have felt warmer. Then again the old case was a Zalman Z9 and I'm on a Corsair 200R right now.
> 
> Yeah I'll probably do TomcatV's reporting system sometime on Sunday.
> 
> Also when I can I'll probably get two of these to replace the H80i fans. I got used to the noise but quieter and more powerful fans would be nice.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-120mm-25mm/dp/B001Q6RUVO


I'm also using H80i and I dont feel that it vibrate that much. It should be ok. Regarding the air being cold, it should be normal if your CPU temp is not that high (like 80c or above high). I'm also using the fans that came w/ the box. Here's my H80i setup.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeOmZ*
> 
> I'm also using H80i and I dont feel that it vibrate that much. It should be ok. Regarding the air being cold, it should be normal if your CPU temp is not that high (like 80c or above high). I'm also using the fans that came w/ the box. Here's my H80i setup.


Damn, that's a nice build. Yeah I have a Sabertooth board also, but its a 990FX GEN3/R2, Asus needs to make those tuf shields for their AMD boards. Yeah the only thing I've heard so far is the fan noise which I've gotten use to, I haven't heard anything like bubbles trapped in the pipes though but I suppose that's a good thing.


----------



## DeOmZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Damn, that's a nice build. Yeah I have a Sabertooth board also, but its a 990FX GEN3/R2, Asus needs to make those tuf shields for their AMD boards. Yeah the only thing I've heard so far is the fan noise which I've gotten use to, I haven't heard anything like bubbles trapped in the pipes though but I suppose that's a good thing.


Same, I can only hear the fans specially if I'm doing some Prime95 stress test. I also configured the fans in Corsair Link, so If I'm on Idle temps, fans are very quiet.


----------



## ihatelolcats

why would a radiator vibrate? the pump is on the block


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> why would a radiator vibrate? the pump is on the block


Could be the fans are not tight against it. Rubber washers/spacers between things can also help reduce natural vibration from the case itself (usually from PSU).


----------



## Buxty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I would agree with you then. My temps during normal gaming are very good, I rarely hit over 50C on the Core temp with the fans set to low.. But stressing with IBT or Prime95 reaches the thermal limit at 4.5Ghz.


Mine only hits a limit and starts throttling when the VRM's get to "burn your finger" temps unless i rig up extra fans to blow on them. After 3 or 4 hours stressing with Prime95 they start a buzzing sound so i think i'll stick to 4.3Ghz


----------



## CannedBullets

So for the H80i fans I'm deciding between this.

http://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-120mm-25mm/dp/B001Q6RUVO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373736691&sr=8-1&keywords=scythe+gentle+typhoons

And this.

http://www.amazon.com/Scythe-D1225C12B7AP-31-Gentle-Typhoon-5400rpm/dp/B004IX5QKE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1373736691&sr=8-3&keywords=scythe+gentle+typhoons

Would the 5400 RPM version be too much or would the version that's at 1850 RPM still be able to beat the stock fans at cooling?

Yeah I kind of noticed also, that today when I first started up my PC the fans were quiet on high performance mode. Then when I played some Skyrim it got to the fan's max RPM of around 2200-2400 RPM and the fan speed won't go back down. My CPU didn't go above 40 C in Skyrim but the socket temp is still at 40 C. I guess I'll know more whether I need to reseat the waterblock or if I got an H80i with a dead pump when I do TomcatV's reporting method tomorrow. Then again my temps would probably be much higher if I had a bad pump.


----------



## Devildog83

Funny thing, I deleted corsair link and now the RED LED on my H100i works. It hasn't for weeks. I guess I don't need the link as the fans are still working as if I still had it.


----------



## Jahocowi

So, I just got a Corsair H110 with a 650D.

This might seem like a weird question, but how do I know that my H110 is working? The two fans are moving and bringing air into the radiator, but what about the water cooling part? I'm completely new to water cooling, so I'm no expert. How do I know if the pump is working?

Also, I didn't see this in the instructions, but was I supposed to put a liquid in it?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jahocowi*
> 
> So, I just got a Corsair H110 with a 650D.
> 
> This might seem like a weird question, but how do I know that my H110 is working? The two fans are moving and bringing air into the radiator, but what about the water cooling part? I'm completely new to water cooling, so I'm no expert. How do I know if the pump is working?
> 
> Also, I didn't see this in the instructions, but was I supposed to put a liquid in it?


If the pump wasn't working you would know, your PC temps would shoot through the roof and most likely shutdown. You could always install real temp and check also.


----------



## Jahocowi

Any other temp programs? Real Temp doesn't support the 8350


----------



## pc-illiterate

hwinfo and openhardwaremonitor and maybe coretemp. give them a try


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jahocowi*
> 
> Any other temp programs? Real Temp doesn't support the 8350


HWMonitor, but I have never used it.


----------



## Jahocowi

They turned on and all had around the same temp. 24ish


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jahocowi*
> 
> They turned on and all had around the same temp. 24ish


Did you plug the 3 pin power cable from the pump/water block into a motherboard fan header? If so, go into the BIOS and see if you have anything running at around 1500rpm. If yes, the pump is spinning. And no, you don't need to add coolant to the H110 because it is a pre sealed unit.


----------



## Jahocowi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Did you plug the 3 pin power cable from the pump/water block into a motherboard fan header? If so, go into the BIOS and see if you have anything running at around 1500rpm. If yes, the pump is spinning. And no, you don't need to add coolant to the H110 because it is a pre sealed unit.


Yeah, both CPU1/2 were around 1500.

Interestingly, the CPU temp in bios was around 45.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jahocowi*
> 
> Yeah, both CPU1/2 were around 1500.
> 
> Interestingly, the CPU temp in bios was around 45.


Yeah my BIOS reports 55c but windows reports 25-30c idle. Updating my bios from F2 to F3 fixes this bad temperature reporting, so check for a BIOS update.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Mine only hits a limit and starts throttling when the VRM's get to "burn your finger" temps unless i rig up extra fans to blow on them. After 3 or 4 hours stressing with Prime95 they start a buzzing sound so i think i'll stick to 4.3Ghz


I would look into BIOS settings if you are getting throttling. Its in the over clocking guide by ComputerRestore. The LLC feature.

The fans will buzz when they tech higher RPMs, but since I've found my 24/7 stable clock, I no longer need a high RPM fan on the VRM, as gaming doesn't bring the temps up past 50C.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Just asking, is the H80i radiator supposed to vibrate? Because I just felt it and there was no vibration, also I have my H80i set up as a push pull exhaust system. Yeah the air being blown from the fans are cold, not warm or hot. Is that normal?
> 
> Also, I think the Sabertooth 990FX's temp sensors at idle might be more inaccurate than my old ASRock 970 Extreme3 at idle, right now its saying the socket temp is at 40 C, but if it was really 40 C my case side panel would have felt warmer. Then again the old case was a Zalman Z9 and I'm on a Corsair 200R right now.
> 
> Yeah I'll probably do TomcatV's reporting system sometime on Sunday.
> 
> Also when I can I'll probably get two of these to replace the H80i fans. I got used to the noise but quieter and more powerful fans would be nice.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-120mm-25mm/dp/B001Q6RUVO


No, the radiator should not vibrate.

If your temperatures are good, even under load, it doesn't matter how warm the radiator is. If your temperatures are too high, and your rad is too cool, then worry.

Just be sure both of the fans are pointing in the same direction.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So for the H80i fans I'm deciding between this.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-120mm-25mm/dp/B001Q6RUVO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373736691&sr=8-1&keywords=scythe+gentle+typhoons
> 
> And this.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Scythe-D1225C12B7AP-31-Gentle-Typhoon-5400rpm/dp/B004IX5QKE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1373736691&sr=8-3&keywords=scythe+gentle+typhoons
> 
> Would the 5400 RPM version be too much or would the version that's at 1850 RPM still be able to beat the stock fans at cooling?
> 
> Yeah I kind of noticed also, that today when I first started up my PC the fans were quiet on high performance mode. Then when I played some Skyrim it got to the fan's max RPM of around 2200-2400 RPM and the fan speed won't go back down. My CPU didn't go above 40 C in Skyrim but the socket temp is still at 40 C. I guess I'll know more whether I need to reseat the waterblock or if I got an H80i with a dead pump when I do TomcatV's reporting method tomorrow. Then again my temps would probably be much higher if I had a bad pump.


Scythe GTs are excellent fans, but if you get the high RPM fans make sure you don't plug them into the block. Personally, I don't think the fan controller in the block would handle the power required by high RPM fans. Also, again personally, I would recommend PWM (4-pin) fans. Corsair seems to have corrected issues they had with fans by replacing them with PWM. Also, with PWM, if you wanted to you could control them with your mother board instead of the block. Also note, the 5400 RPM fans would likely be pretty loud when they run full speed.

I'm using two Scythe Slip Stream 1900 RPM 110 cfm PWM fans on my H100 right now and they're doing a fine job. I'm controlling them from the two CPU_FAN headers on my motherboard so they only run at about 600 RPM when under a light load, and ramp up to 1900 RPM when under heavy load.

Note, if you got an H80 with a bad pump, you would see some pretty serious temps and your PC would likely shut down. However, do check to see that it is correctly seated. A lot of times capacitors on the motherboard that are mounted too close to the cpu socket can prevent the block from seating on the cpu properly. You can usually correct this by turning the block 90 degrees and tightening it down again. My motherboard is like that, and the way I found out was by shining a flashlight at the side of the cpu and I could see the light coming out the other side.

If your CPU is staying at 40c, that sounds pretty good to me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Funny thing, I deleted corsair link and now the RED LED on my H100i works. It hasn't for weeks. I guess I don't need the link as the fans are still working as if I still had it.


It's funny, but from listening to all the complaints about the link, and from experience with the M90 mouse and K90 keyboard, imao Corsair really sucks at writing software. They should hire someone who knows how to program a little better.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jahocowi*
> 
> So, I just got a Corsair H110 with a 650D.
> 
> This might seem like a weird question, but how do I know that my H110 is working? The two fans are moving and bringing air into the radiator, but what about the water cooling part? I'm completely new to water cooling, so I'm no expert. How do I know if the pump is working?
> 
> Also, I didn't see this in the instructions, but was I supposed to put a liquid in it?


You should go to Corsair's site and read the installation instructions and watch the videos.
You don't need to add water as it's a sealed cooler with coolant already installed. If your temperatures are good, then you know the pump is working. You should be able to hear it by putting your ear close to the block on your cpu.

Congrats on a great choice by the way. The H110 and the 650D are made for each other. If I didn't already own a 600T I would definitely pick up a 650D. Great case.

Tip: If you plug the RPM wire from the H110 block into your CPU_FAN header on your mother board, you can go into the BIOS or you can run a fan monitoring program like Speed Fan in Windows, and where they say how fast your CPU FAN is going, that's actually the pump in the H110 block. I believe you should see something around 1300 RPM on the H110.

If your CPU temp is at 45c in BIOS, that seems high to me for an idle temp. You might want to check and make sure the block is completely seated (see comment above). Also, make sure both of your fans are pointed in the same direction. Also, as BradleyW suggested, go to your manufacturers website and check for a BIOS update.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> No, the radiator should not vibrate.
> 
> If your temperatures are good, even under load, it doesn't matter how warm the radiator is. If your temperatures are too high, and your rad is too cool, then worry.
> 
> Just be sure both of the fans are pointing in the same direction.
> Scythe GTs are excellent fans, but if you get the high RPM fans make sure you don't plug them into the block. Personally, I don't think the fan controller in the block would handle the power required by high RPM fans. Also, again personally, I would recommend PWM (4-pin) fans. Corsair seems to have corrected issues they had with fans by replacing them with PWM. Also, with PWM, if you wanted to you could control them with your mother board instead of the block. Also note, the 5400 RPM fans would likely be pretty loud when they run full speed.
> 
> I'm using two Scythe Slip Stream 1900 RPM 110 cfm PWM fans on my H100 right now and they're doing a fine job. I'm controlling them from the two CPU_FAN headers on my motherboard so they only run at about 600 RPM when under a light load, and ramp up to 1900 RPM when under heavy load.
> 
> Note, if you got an H80 with a bad pump, you would see some pretty serious temps and your PC would likely shut down. However, do check to see that it is correctly seated. A lot of times capacitors on the motherboard that are mounted too close to the cpu socket can prevent the block from seating on the cpu properly. You can usually correct this by turning the block 90 degrees and tightening it down again. My motherboard is like that, and the way I found out was by shining a flashlight at the side of the cpu and I could see the light coming out the other side.
> 
> If your CPU is staying at 40c, that sounds pretty good.


I think I'll go with two Scythe GT 1850s for my H80i. I can use Corsair Link to control them right? Or will they be at max speed because they're three pin fans? PWM fans are four pin fans right?


----------



## Jahocowi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> You should go to Corsair's site and read the installation instructions and watch the videos.
> You don't need to add water as it's a sealed cooler with coolant already installed. If your temperatures are good, then you know the pump is working. You should be able to hear it by putting your ear close to the block on your cpu.
> 
> Congrats on a great choice by the way. The H110 and the 650D are made for each other. If I didn't already own a 600T I would definitely pick up a 650D. Great case.
> 
> Tip: If you plug the RPM wire from the H110 block into your CPU_FAN header on your mother board, you can go into the BIOS or you can run a fan monitoring program like Speed Fan in Windows, and where they say how fast your CPU FAN is going, that's actually the pump in the H110 block. I believe you should see something around 1300 RPM on the H110.
> 
> If your CPU temp is at 45c in BIOS, that seems high to me for an idle temp. You might want to check and make sure the block is completely seated (see comment above). Also, make sure both of your fans are pointed in the same direction. Also, as BradleyW suggested, go to your manufacturers website and check for a BIOS update.


I've had it installed for a few days, but I just wanted to make sure. I'm pretty sure I put it in the CPU_FAN header. I think the instructions said to do that, or I read it someplace.

Thanks! I'm really enjoying the case and glad I went with it. I think there was a BIOS update recently for my MoBo. I'm more inclined to believe it's in the 20s, but I'll update the BIOS and see if it changes. 40s would defiantly be high.


----------



## CannedBullets

Huh, I just noticed the LED isn't working on my H80i at all. I tried different colors in Corsair Link, still not working. I'll try uninstalling Corsair Link, restarting my PC, and redownloading Corsair Link after I'm done installing DA: Origins.

EDIT: Okay, I uninstalled Corsair Link and reinstalled it. Still the same issue. Is there other stuff I have to do or is the LED dead? If the LED is dead I'll probably return it to Newegg and buy an H80i from fry's after I price match it.


----------



## Jahocowi

Updated the BIOS and it still is reporting those temps. The update did mess up my RAM settings. Used to be find with 88824 @1.35. Now I have to have it at 99924.


----------



## Devildog83

How much difference would I get temp wise if I traded up to an H110 from an H100i? Does anyone think I could run my 8350 @ 5.0 24/7? I can get 4.7 very stable and cool now.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> How much difference would I get temp wise if I traded up to an H110 from an H100i? Does anyone think I could run my 8350 @ 5.0 24/7? I can get 4.7 very stable and cool now.


If you really want to make a difference, the Swiftech H220 is the way to go. Getting away from aluminum rads to copper is the better cooling option.


----------



## ROUBOS

Hi,
I'm getting the CM HAF XB and I need a new CPU cooler to replace the stock cooler of my fx8350.

Here are my parts:

AMD FX 8350 4.0GHz, 16MB, 125W, PIB
Asus M5A97 Evo R2.0 AM3+ AMD970 ATX
Corsair HX SERIES 650W POWER SUPPLY
Sapphire Radeon HD7870 XT Edition with Boost, 2GB
Corsair CMZ8GX3M2A1600C8 8GB (2x4GB) 1600MHz DDR3 - X2 (16GB all up) Vengeance high ram
OCZ Vector SSD
Dell U2412M 16:10 IPS monitor
Logitech G105 keyboard
Tt esports by thermaltake mouse
ASUS xonar sound card
Altec Lansing 5.1 speakers
I was looking at getting air cooling but my high ram are a problem. So I was told to look at the water cooling option. So thinking of getting either the h80i or the h100i.

What is your opinion? I never have overclocked and I don't think I will.
Been reading a lot about how people have had issues with both the h80i and the h100i. Should I be worried?

If I do get the h80i I would mount it at the back of the case with two noctua fans push/pull. The h100i goes in the front of the case.
Should I make that push/pull? Is it necessary to get identical fans for a push/pull?

Are the stock fans ok? Been reading that people have had issues with the fans being loud, and also people getting high temps. Also some people had issues with the pump not sitting well on the cpu and mobo.

Will water cooling make a big difference from air cooling like the Noctua NH-U12S ? (Noctua NH-U12S is the cooler that has clearance for my high ram).

Is it worh getting the h100i over the h80i ???


----------



## CannedBullets

Okay, looks like it was Corsair Link that glitched out and caused my LED not to work. It added two profiles for the LED for some reason and only one of them actually changed the LED color.

Also, do Scythe Gentle Typhoons play nice with Corsair Link?


----------



## Buxty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I would look into BIOS settings if you are getting throttling. Its in the over clocking guide by ComputerRestore. The LLC feature.
> 
> The fans will buzz when they tech higher RPMs, but since I've found my 24/7 stable clock, I no longer need a high RPM fan on the VRM, as gaming doesn't bring the temps up past 50C.


It only throttles because the VRM's (i expect) get too toasty. I should rig up some airflow for them but i lazy.


----------



## rv8000

I just finished installing my h80i in my sig rig, and now it doesn't recognize my ssd as bootable for who knows what reason. Has anyone had this problem? All power/sata cables are properly connected and I doubled checked all of them. Also tried setting SATA mode to ide as some sites recommended but it didnt do a thing. Ideas?


----------



## El-Fuego

I think you hit something by mistake during the installation.
did you try yo change the sata slots on your mobo ? also swap cables, just to eliminate these as possibilities.


----------



## rv8000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> I think you hit something by mistake during the installation.
> did you try yo change the sata slots on your mobo ? also swap cables, just to eliminate these as possibilities.


I've disconnected power/sata cables on all my drivers now + swapped, nothing. Every drive is recognized by the bios when plugged in, nothing is adding up as to why it wouldn't boot normally.


----------



## ROUBOS

this is just it.
I am about to order either the h80i or the h100i and reading here puts me off. People are having too many issues.
Might aswell go for an air cooler to be safe. It just works.


----------



## Buxty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROUBOS*
> 
> this is just it.
> I am about to order either the h80i or the h100i and reading here puts me off. People are having too many issues.
> Might aswell go for an air cooler to be safe. It just works.


Well its kinda like saying "i removed my RAM to fit an air cooler now the PC won't boot" random things happen, its probably just windows opening a massive box of fail on the dude.


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rv8000*
> 
> I've disconnected power/sata cables on all my drivers now + swapped, nothing. Every drive is recognized by the bios when plugged in, nothing is adding up as to why it wouldn't boot normally.


hmm, do you have another machine you can check your ssd with ?
you power supply is large enough to give you all the power you need!
maybe someone else can give you more insight on this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROUBOS*
> 
> this is just it.
> I am about to order either the h80i or the h100i and reading here puts me off. People are having too many issues.
> Might aswell go for an air cooler to be safe. It just works.


mistakes happened, parts dies, it have nothing to do with the water cooler, if you think corsair water coolers have too many issues, go and check the swiftch h220 forums and see!.
plus if you can prove that any part stopped because a defective corsair cooler they will replace that for you as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Well its kinda like saying "i removed my RAM to fit an air cooler now the PC won't boot" random things happen, its probably just windows opening a massive box of fail on the dude.


^ this


----------



## rv8000

Decided to boot after some fiddling, i really don't understand why but









Temps are pretty good but these stock fans HAVE to go, I think my ears are bleeding


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rv8000*
> 
> Decided to boot after some fiddling, i really don't understand why but
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps are pretty good but these stock fans HAVE to go, I think my ears are bleeding


Yeah you'll get used to the noise on performance mode like I did. I'm still going to switch out the fans soon.


----------



## bigredishott

Joined with my H60


----------



## El-Fuego

I have the H110 so It's 2x140 not 120mm, I wish I can mount Corsair SP120 on them, or Corsair start making SP140 quite edition








Get the SP120 quite and you can leave it running at max.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> I have the H110 so It's 2x140 not 120mm, I wish I can mount Corsair SP120 on them, or Corsair start making SP140 quite edition
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get the SP120 quite and you can leave it running at max.


Any performance advantages the SP120s have over the Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850 rpms?


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Any performance advantages the SP120s have over the Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850 rpms?


not 100% sure but I think the SP have better static pressure than the GT


----------



## CannedBullets

Okay, so how are my results? I ran Prime95 large FFTS because it generates the most heat for exactly 59 minutes. My ambient temperature in the room was maybe around 83 F so 28 C. When I first booted up my PC after reseating the waterblock the idle socket temp was around 30 C but idle temps for AMD are inaccurate and I don't know how HWMonitor reported the idle temp as 0 C at one point.

Yeah I reseated the waterblock before this test also and it looked like the thermal paste was unevenly spread by the waterblock when I first put it in, probably because the waterblock was annoying to line up. Right now the socket temp is at 41 C, 15 to 20 minutes after I did the P95 test.

I think reseating the waterblock helped, because before that my socket temp got to 51-52 C in 15 minutes.

Its an AMD FX-6300 at stock speed and voltage.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Any performance advantages the SP120s have over the Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850 rpms?


http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/05/07/fan-testing-round-12/


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> I think I'll go with two Scythe GT 1850s for my H80i. I can use Corsair Link to control them right? Or will they be at max speed because they're three pin fans? PWM fans are four pin fans right?


You are right in that 3-pin are not PWM. You should talk to someone who is using the Scythe fans before purchasing them to make sure they will work with the Corsair fan controller in the block. I have heard that many 3-pin fans will not work on the Corsair block.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Huh, I just noticed the LED isn't working on my H80i at all. I tried different colors in Corsair Link, still not working. I'll try uninstalling Corsair Link, restarting my PC, and redownloading Corsair Link after I'm done installing DA: Origins.
> 
> EDIT: Okay, I uninstalled Corsair Link and reinstalled it. Still the same issue. Is there other stuff I have to do or is the LED dead? If the LED is dead I'll probably return it to Newegg and buy an H80i from fry's after I price match it.


Did you try a firmware update from Corsair's site?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jahocowi*
> 
> Updated the BIOS and it still is reporting those temps. The update did mess up my RAM settings. Used to be find with 88824 @1.35. Now I have to have it at 99924.


You may be able to downgrade the firmware if you war not happy with it. You should check the seating of your pump on your CPU. I don't own an AMD cpu, but your idle temp seems high to me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> How much difference would I get temp wise if I traded up to an H110 from an H100i? Does anyone think I could run my 8350 @ 5.0 24/7? I can get 4.7 very stable and cool now.


From the comparisons I have seen, I would think anywhere from 3 to 5c.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> If you really want to make a difference, the Swiftech H220 is the way to go. Getting away from aluminum rads to copper is the better cooling option.


That depends on the review you read. Some of them say the Corsair coolers are better, some say the Swifttech. Personally, at this point I wouldn't believe any of them and would have to do the testing myself to believe the results.

Here's one fairly comprehensive review showing the H100i out-performing the H220 for temperatures using the stock fans. If it's true that the H100i gets better temps, then you can bet the H110 would as well. However, when using the same fans, the H220 seems to slightly outperform the H100i. I would expect the H110 to be on par with the H220 due to the larger rad and fans.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/01/27/swiftech-h220-prefilled-2x120mm-water-cooling-kit/10/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rv8000*
> 
> I just finished installing my h80i in my sig rig, and now it doesn't recognize my ssd as bootable for who knows what reason. Has anyone had this problem? All power/sata cables are properly connected and I doubled checked all of them. Also tried setting SATA mode to ide as some sites recommended but it didnt do a thing. Ideas?


If you were using AHCI, don't change to IDE or your system won't boot. The drivers for your system will be AHCI drivers, and without changing the drivers to IDE you can't boot AHCI drives when set to IDE.

Do you have a repair disk? What I have done when I get a fault like what you describe, especially if you have an SSD, is to run the boot repair from the Windows 7 repair disk. I usually run it twice as it seems sometimes it won't work the first time. Run the repair, and when it's finished run it again. Then remove the disk and try booting.

Remember, if you installed your system with the BIOS set to IDE, then keep it on EID, if your BIOS was set to AHCI, then leave it on AHCI especially for SSDs if you want full trim support).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rv8000*
> 
> Decided to boot after some fiddling, i really don't understand why but
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps are pretty good but these stock fans HAVE to go, I think my ears are bleeding


Good job. Now, go make a Windows 7 repair disk.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Any performance advantages the SP120s have over the Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850 rpms?


Yes, if you go to the review I linked to above you will see that the Corsair fans actually outperform the 1850 GTs (according to that review) by a couple of degrees, but that the GTs are way quieter.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> You are right in that 3-pin are not PWM. You should talk to someone who is using the Scythe fans before purchasing them to make sure they will work with the Corsair fan controller in the block. I have heard that many 3-pin fans will not work on the Corsair block.
> Did you try a firmware update from Corsair's site?
> You may be able to downgrade the firmware if you war not happy with it. You should check the seating of your pump on your CPU. I don't own an AMD cpu, but your idle temp seems high to me.
> From the comparisons I have seen, I would think anywhere from 3 to 5c.
> That depends on the review you read. Some of them say the Corsair coolers are better, some say the Swifttech. Personally, at this point I wouldn't believe any of them and would have to do the testing myself to believe the results.
> 
> Here's one fairly comprehensive review showing the H100i out-performing the H220 for temperatures using the stock fans. If it's true that the H100i gets better temps, then you can bet the H110 would as well. However, when using the same fans, the H220 seems to slightly outperform the H100i. I would expect the H110 to be on par with the H220 due to the larger rad and fans.
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/01/27/swiftech-h220-prefilled-2x120mm-water-cooling-kit/10/
> If you were using AHCI, don't change to IDE or your system won't boot. The drivers for your system will be AHCI drivers, and without changing the drivers to IDE you can't boot AHCI drives when set to IDE.
> 
> Do you have a repair disk? What I have done when I get a fault like what you describe, especially if you have an SSD, is to run the boot repair from the Windows 7 repair disk. I usually run it twice as it seems sometimes it won't work the first time. Run the repair, and when it's finished run it again. Then remove the disk and try booting.
> 
> Remember, if you installed your system with the BIOS set to IDE, then keep it on EID, if your BIOS was set to AHCI, then leave it on AHCI especially for SSDs if you want full trim support).
> Good job. Now, go make a Windows 7 repair disk.
> Yes, if you go to the review I linked to above you will see that the Corsair fans actually outperform the 1850 GTs (according to that review) by a couple of degrees, but that the GTs are way quieter.


I owned the H110, the H220 gave me better temps. Using Noctua NF F12 fans also.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROUBOS*
> 
> this is just it.
> I am about to order either the h80i or the h100i and reading here puts me off. People are having too many issues.
> Might aswell go for an air cooler to be safe. It just works.


The only issue I have ever had with my H100i is the color RED on the LED didn't work with corsair link software until I just reinstalled and used the latest version. Other than that it has been rock solid for my 8350 and CHVFZ @ 4.7 Ghz.


----------



## Devildog83

Her is what you can do with an H100i,


----------



## pc-illiterate

what are we looking at there devildog, besides your psu putting out lower than 12v and 5 volt and 3.3 volt?


----------



## Jahocowi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> You may be able to downgrade the firmware if you war not happy with it. You should check the seating of your pump on your CPU. I don't own an AMD cpu, but your idle temp seems high to me.
> From the comparisons I have seen, I would think anywhere from 3 to 5c.


It is high, but I tried three other CPU temp readers, and they are saying I'm in the 20s. So, I'm inclined to believe it's ASrock not being right.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> what are we looking at there devildog, besides your psu putting out lower than 12v and 5 volt and 3.3 volt?


A moderate overclock with cool temps. What, now my Seasonic Platinum PSU is not good enough. Geez this is a tough room.


----------



## CannedBullets

Could someone please confirm if this is good?



Okay, so how are my results? I ran Prime95 large FFTS because it generates the most heat for exactly 59 minutes. My ambient temperature in the room was maybe around 83 F so 28 C. When I first booted up my PC after reseating the waterblock the idle socket temp was around 30 C but idle temps for AMD are inaccurate and I don't know how HWMonitor reported the idle temp as 0 C at one point.

Yeah I reseated the waterblock before this test also and it looked like the thermal paste was unevenly spread by the waterblock when I first put it in, probably because the waterblock was annoying to line up. Right now the socket temp is at 41 C, 15 to 20 minutes after I did the P95 test.

I think reseating the waterblock helped, because before that my socket temp got to 51-52 C in 15 minutes.

Its an AMD FX-6300 at stock speed and voltage. The rest of my rig is in my signature.

Also I just played some Skyrim and HWMonitor said my max socket temp was 50 C.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Could someone please confirm if this is good?
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, so how are my results? I ran Prime95 large FFTS because it generates the most heat for exactly 59 minutes. My ambient temperature in the room was maybe around 83 F so 28 C. When I first booted up my PC after reseating the waterblock the idle socket temp was around 30 C but idle temps for AMD are inaccurate and I don't know how HWMonitor reported the idle temp as 0 C at one point.
> 
> Yeah I reseated the waterblock before this test also and it looked like the thermal paste was unevenly spread by the waterblock when I first put it in, probably because the waterblock was annoying to line up. Right now the socket temp is at 41 C, 15 to 20 minutes after I did the P95 test.
> 
> I think reseating the waterblock helped, because before that my socket temp got to 51-52 C in 15 minutes.
> 
> Its an AMD FX-6300 at stock speed and voltage. The rest of my rig is in my signature.
> 
> Also I just played some Skyrim and HWMonitor said my max socket temp was 50 C.


I would get HWinFO64 for monitoring. You won't regret it. http://www.hwinfo.com/download64.html Seems cool but I don't know the 6300 and what it's capable of doing.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> It only throttles because the VRM's (i expect) get too toasty. I should rig up some airflow for them but i lazy.


Check your VRM temps in HWMonitor next time you stress test. That will tell you if it temp related, or not. Your BIOS should have a setting labeled LLC somewhere. Also, just as a precaution, check to make sure any and all settings like cool n quiet are disabled. It might seem redundant, but I had an issue with mine recently, and there was a setting that had gotten reset somewhow that was the culprit.


----------



## Destrto

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Could someone please confirm if this is good?
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, so how are my results? I ran Prime95 large FFTS because it generates the most heat for exactly 59 minutes. My ambient temperature in the room was maybe around 83 F so 28 C. When I first booted up my PC after reseating the waterblock the idle socket temp was around 30 C but idle temps for AMD are inaccurate and I don't know how HWMonitor reported the idle temp as 0 C at one point.
> 
> Yeah I reseated the waterblock before this test also and it looked like the thermal paste was unevenly spread by the waterblock when I first put it in, probably because the waterblock was annoying to line up. Right now the socket temp is at 41 C, 15 to 20 minutes after I did the P95 test.
> 
> I think reseating the waterblock helped, because before that my socket temp got to 51-52 C in 15 minutes.
> 
> Its an AMD FX-6300 at stock speed and voltage. The rest of my rig is in my signature.
> 
> Also I just played some Skyrim and HWMonitor said my max socket temp was 50 C.






it is fine. You're beating a dead horse... Relax and enjoy your new setup already.. The socket temp runs hotter because it has no airflow to it. Due to the block of the water cooler. That is normal, that is why the overclocking guide states that an extra fan on top or underneath the VRM's will help lower that.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> 
> it is fine. You're beating a dead horse... Relax and enjoy your new setup already.. The socket temp runs hotter because it has no airflow to it. Due to the block of the water cooler. That is normal, that is why the overclocking guide states that an extra fan on top or underneath the VRM's will help lower that.


Well, the Sabertooth (truly a work of engineering) has heatsinks on heatsinks so I hope I don't need a fan over the VRMs, that would just be annoying to ut in because the radiator blocks it. I just need some Noctuas or Scythe GTs and I'm good to go.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Well, the Sabertooth (truly a work of engineering) has heatsinks on heatsinks so I hope I don't need a fan over the VRMs, that would just be annoying to ut in because the radiator blocks it. I just need some Noctuas or Scythe GTs and I'm good to go.


Unless you get airlfow onto those VRM's, those temps wont change no matter what fans you add.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Unless you get airlfow onto those VRM's, those temps wont change no matter what fans you add.


Even on a Sabertooth? Do most people with high end boards like Sabertooths and Crosshairs need fans on VRMs? I kind of wish more motherboards came with VRM fans and VRM fan mounts like the ASRock 990FX Extreme4.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Even on a Sabertooth? Do most people with high end boards like Sabertooths and Crosshairs need fans on VRMs? I kind of wish more motherboards came with VRM fans and VRM fan mounts like the ASRock 990FX Extreme4.


With any board that does not offer active Northbridge cooling. Which not very many do. Since you are using a closed loop cooler on your cpu, it does not offer any airflow across the VRM's.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> With any board that does not offer active Northbridge cooling. Which not very many do. Since you are using a closed loop cooler on your cpu, it does not offer any airflow across the VRM's.


So I might? Man I hope I don't need to do that for pushing my FX-6300 to 4.5 GHz.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So I might? Man I hope I don't need to do that for pushing my FX-6300 to 4.5 GHz.


Start by attempting to overclock first. Then see how your temps fair.


----------



## Vulpix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Yeah you'll get used to the noise on performance mode like I did. I'm still going to switch out the fans soon.


May I know which fans you are getting? I am getting bothered by the noise as well.


----------



## Buxty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Check your VRM temps in HWMonitor next time you stress test. That will tell you if it temp related, or not. Your BIOS should have a setting labeled LLC somewhere. Also, just as a precaution, check to make sure any and all settings like cool n quiet are disabled. It might seem redundant, but I had an issue with mine recently, and there was a setting that had gotten reset somewhow that was the culprit.


Theres three temps in HWMonitor that always show: CPU (assuming is the socket), FX8120 (CPU itself) and Mainboard. I also get TMPIN1 showing sometimes so im not sure which is the VRM's. I've got LLC cranked up to like High and everything silly is turned off.


----------



## ROUBOS

OK, I just placed my order.

I got the CM HAF XB with extra 2 CoolerMaster 80mm BC Red Case Fans. (for the bottom half)
The extra fans for the bottom might not be needed since I have SSDs, but I guess that as an exhaust under the motherboard it might do some good.

Now for a CPU Cooler I ended up getting the Noctua NH-U12S with an extra NF-F12 PWM fan for push/pull. This fan will be quiet and it will clear my tall Corsair Vengeance.

Thanks everyone who helped out and for their replies to my posts. I learned a lot, and had some interesting feedback regarding air cooling vs water cooling.

My final decision is based on me feeling a lot more comfortable and worry free.
Maybe I'm over exaggerating regarding the trust on the h80i and h100i, but I feel that I don't need to worry about things that might go wrong.
I've sent an ASUS motherboard for RMA and its been two weeks now and the motherboard has not come back yet. Don't want to have to go through this again.

I know the h80i and the h100i would have given me better temps but I don't think its that much of a big deal. I don't overclock so a few degrees more or less will not make too much of a difference. The HAF XB itself will give me great air flow and good temps.

Not going to go through Prime95, or post overclocking numbers on forums etc, and so I don't want to have to worry about firmware or Corsair Link etc.

If it wasn't for the noise the stock fan makes on the 8350 I wouldn't even bother to be honest. So now a quiet CPU Cooler that just works and performs way better than the stock cooler is more than enough.

All up it cost me 230€. (Not a bad birthday present to myself)

Thanks again to all that took their time to reply.

I will be posting pictures of my haf xb once it's setup later this week.


----------



## Seeing Red

I guess I won't be able to get my 2500K to 5GHz with my H80i unless I change out the fans. Currently get 85C with IBT on 1.45V @ 4.9GHz and a 20C ambient (should I remount?).

I have GT AP-15s and with them on full blast the noise isn't too bad. The Corsair Link software has no problem ramping up the fans, but doesn't seem to ever slow them down. I might just hook up to my mobo and use the Asus fan control software.


----------



## VettePilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seeing Red*
> 
> I guess I won't be able to get my 2500K to 5GHz with my H80i unless I change out the fans. Currently get 85C with IBT on 1.45V @ 4.9GHz and a 20C ambient (should I remount?).
> 
> I have GT AP-15s and with them on full blast the noise isn't too bad. The Corsair Link software has no problem ramping up the fans, but doesn't seem to ever slow them down. I might just hook up to my mobo and use the Asus fan control software.


well I can get my 2600 to 5ghz at 1.44v and I tested with Aida64 with just CPU FPU since that gets the heat up more then with cache and memory blended in to the test and with the H110 with its stock fans and just one 1200mm in pull I saw a peak of 79 and avg of 64 with room temp of 24. I think a H100i or H110 would be a good idea with some nice fans. I still have not decided on what new fans to get. I may try out the Akasa fans and see if the noise is something I can live with. I do not keep my system running 24/7 so it wont be an issue with keeping me up at night if they are louder than stock fans. I want to try out some Silverstone FHP141's as well.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Seeing Red*
> 
> I guess I won't be able to get my 2500K to 5GHz with my H80i unless I change out the fans. Currently get 85C with IBT on 1.45V @ 4.9GHz and a 20C ambient (should I remount?).
> 
> I have GT AP-15s and with them on full blast the noise isn't too bad. The Corsair Link software has no problem ramping up the fans, but doesn't seem to ever slow them down. I might just hook up to my mobo and use the Asus fan control software.
> 
> 
> 
> well I can get my 2600 to 5ghz at 1.44v and I tested with Aida64 with just CPU FPU since that gets the heat up more then with cache and memory blended in to the test and with the H110 with its stock fans and just one 1200mm in pull I saw a peak of 79 and avg of 64 with room temp of 24. I think a H100i or H110 would be a good idea with some nice fans. I still have not decided on what new fans to get. I may try out the Akasa fans and see if the noise is something I can live with. I do not keep my system running 24/7 so it wont be an issue with keeping me up at night if they are louder than stock fans. I want to try out some Silverstone FHP141's as well.
Click to expand...

That's actually not all that bad of an OC with those kinds of temps. I also have a 2600k and while it's possible to get 5ghz, I don't like my temps using the H80i plus I'm using SP120 quiets which are not moving nearly enough air. Since I also do [email protected] I run my machine at load 24/7 so I need rock solid stable and like staying around the 60c mark for temps. I'm going full WC loop anyways as the H80i looks kind of stupid in my case now.


----------



## VettePilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> That's actually not all that bad of an OC with those kinds of temps. I also have a 2600k and while it's possible to get 5ghz, I don't like my temps using the H80i plus I'm using SP120 quiets which are not moving nearly enough air. Since I also do [email protected] I run my machine at load 24/7 so I need rock solid stable and like staying around the 60c mark for temps. I'm going full WC loop anyways as the H80i looks kind of stupid in my case now.


A proper loop with a larger rad like a 480 with push/pull would be best I would think. I will do that at some point when Ivy-E comes out. I see no point in spending the money on this 2600 right now. I run my 2600 at 4.7 daily now at 1.37v and in games it gets at most to 55c peak.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vulpix*
> 
> May I know which fans you are getting? I am getting bothered by the noise as well.


I'm choosing between the Scythe Gentle Typhoon and Noctua NF-F12. I'm kind of leaning towards the Noctua because I heard 3-pin fans like the Scythe GTs were glitchy with CorsairLink.


----------



## gct30

Whats better for my 500r case,! H90 so i can do a push/pull or a h100 that i can only do push or pull. HELP. thank u


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Theres three temps in HWMonitor that always show: CPU (assuming is the socket), FX8120 (CPU itself) and Mainboard. I also get TMPIN1 showing sometimes so im not sure which is the VRM's. I've got LLC cranked up to like High and everything silly is turned off.


The CPU or Socket temp is what shows your VRM temps. It's usually 10C or so higher than your Core temp (FX8120), correct?


----------



## H3r3tic

I run a nzxt phantom 410 case. Asrock extreme 4 mobo and I got a 2500k at 4.8ghz will hit 4.9 with turbo. I have it using offset voltages 1.408 is the max it'll use and I'm cooling with a hyper 212+ push-pull with blademasters. Hwinfo shows average of 1.3v. I Got 3 140mm and 3 120mm in the case with gtx 670 power edition sli. I generally run 83c on Intel burn test very high, normal game temps playing never break 55c. Case is extremely quiet set to medium speed on all fans.

I'm wondering what type of loop would actually bring better results in terms of temperatures. I by no means am unhappy with current temps and performance. I would like to see 5ghz but any higher voltage is gonna bring more heat I'll need to remove.


----------



## Buxty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> The CPU or Socket temp is what shows your VRM temps. It's usually 10C or so higher than your Core temp (FX8120), correct?


Oh i seee! Been folding for hours now actual processor temp is 45 degrees under load and "CPU" is: 59 degrees. It makes sense as it almost burns my fingers when i touch it


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Oh i seee! Been folding for hours now actual processor temp is 45 degrees under load and "CPU" is: 59 degrees. It makes sense as it almost burns my fingers when i touch it


Then maybe don't touch it anymore? haha..


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gct30*
> 
> Whats better for my 500r case,! H90 so i can do a push/pull or a h100 that i can only do push or pull. HELP. thank u


I have the same case and i went with the H110 Pull,
the bigger the Rad = the better heat dissipation, so I'd say skip both 90,100 and go for the h110, but keep in mind it will take the whole upper space and leave you very little space for cable management, so plan accordingly and layout everything before putting the rad on otherwise you'll have to remove it to lay your fan cables across, like me


----------



## pc-illiterate

as far as ive understood, socket temp is the actual cpu socket temp, right under the plastic. thats why its called socket temp and vrm temp monitors report vrm temp. not a lot of boards report vrm temps.


----------



## H3r3tic

There two completely different things. Vrms on a decent performance motherboard usually have a heat sink mounted on them. There's also a difference between core temp and socket temp. To me core temp has been the only important one to really watch.


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H3r3tic*
> 
> There two completely different things. Vrms on a decent performance motherboard usually have a heat sink mounted on them. There's also a difference between core temp and socket temp. To me core temp has been the only important one to really watch.


a lot of people mistake the core temp with the socket temp, HWmonitor report socket+core, motherboard utilities report the socket while core temp report the core.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> a lot of people mistake the core temp with the socket temp, HWmonitor report socket+core, motherboard utilities report the socket while core temp report the core.


Its been explained which one is which in HWMomitor a few times in ComputerRestore's over clocking guide.


----------



## Buxty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Then maybe don't touch it anymore? haha..


Yeah but thats just not fun


----------



## CannedBullets

So on the water block there's a couple scratches on the copper part which makes contact with the CPU. But the scratches aren't over the CPU, they're over the sides of the CPU near the edge of the CPU. Should I still RMA it to Newegg? I noticed it yesterday but I didn't think much of it until now.


----------



## VettePilot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So on the water block there's a couple scratches on the copper part which makes contact with the CPU. But the scratches aren't over the CPU, they're over the sides of the CPU near the edge of the CPU. Should I still RMA it to Newegg? I noticed it yesterday but I didn't think much of it until now.


I seriously doubt it unless it is affecting the cooling which it sounds like it would not be if it is not in contact with the IHS. Not worth your time to do an RMA.


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So on the water block there's a couple scratches on the copper part which makes contact with the CPU. But the scratches aren't over the CPU, they're over the sides of the CPU near the edge of the CPU. Should I still RMA it to Newegg? I noticed it yesterday but I didn't think much of it until now.


Um... Take a deep breath. Calm down. Stop being so paranoid! LOL. I noticed you've been posting a lot regarding stuff you shouldn't be worrying about on this thread. As long as it's light scratches, you're fine!


----------



## El-Fuego

even if it's scratched over the cpu your TIM will fill it up, unless you have some really deep scratches then yeah RMA it.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> even if it's scratched over the cpu your TIM will fill it up, unless you have some really deep scratches then yeah RMA it.


What would you constitute as "deep?"


----------



## Anoxy

hokay, stupid question incoming:

will adding two more fans to my H100i as push/pull benefit my entire system's temps, or just my CPU?


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> What would you constitute as "deep?"


something that deep enough to mess the alignment of the sitting surface or deep enough to have an air bubble trapped, I have scratched mine while changing my motherboard, I left the block unattended and it slipped and hit something in the case, i have 3 or 4 long scratches in the middle of the block, I didnt see any no temp change from before.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jahocowi*
> 
> It is high, but I tried three other CPU temp readers, and they are saying I'm in the 20s. So, I'm inclined to believe it's ASrock not being right.


That's a sweet board for sure, but I wouldn't personally be happy until the BIOS was reporting the correct temp on the cpu.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Well, the Sabertooth (truly a work of engineering) has heatsinks on heatsinks so I hope I don't need a fan over the VRMs, that would just be annoying to ut in because the radiator blocks it. I just need some Noctuas or Scythe GTs and I'm good to go.


Keep in mind that these boards are mostly designed for air cooling. When you air cool, you naturally get some air movement from the air cooler fan over the vrms. When you replace the air cooler with a water block, that air movement is gone. On one of my ASUS board (I think it was a socket 775 core 2 board) they actually supplied chipset/vrm fans in the box (tiny little fans) and stated that these fans were for use if you are water cooling. Not a bad idea.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Even on a Sabertooth? Do most people with high end boards like Sabertooths and Crosshairs need fans on VRMs? I kind of wish more motherboards came with VRM fans and VRM fan mounts like the ASRock 990FX Extreme4.


Like everything else, it depends on the situation. If you are overclocking to the limit, and you think your vrms are getting too warm, then adding a little fan is a no-brainer.

Destrto has been giving you excellent advice. Try your overclock, evaluate your temps, decide what you need.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Theres three temps in HWMonitor that always show: CPU (assuming is the socket), FX8120 (CPU itself) and Mainboard. I also get TMPIN1 showing sometimes so im not sure which is the VRM's. I've got LLC cranked up to like High and everything silly is turned off.


I'm not sure why you're only getting three temps? Is this an AMD thing? On my Core i5 2500K, HWM gives me video card temps, and all the temps of my cpu cores 0 through 3. I get three other temps as well: TZ00, TZ01, SYSTIN.

The funny thing is that the cpu fan RPM value from HWM is wrong for me. It claims the fans are running at ~200 RPM and ~230 RPM, and they're bouncing all over the place. With other fan monitoring software, including my BIOS and Speed Fan I get 498 RPM and 526 RPM, which is correct for idle on my system (agrees with BIOS).

Maybe give Speed Fan a try and see how it works for you? You can get it from cnet.com.

Edit: I like Speed Fan because, once you have figured out which value for fan speeds belongs to which fan, you can relabel them whatever you like.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seeing Red*
> 
> I guess I won't be able to get my 2500K to 5GHz with my H80i unless I change out the fans. Currently get 85C with IBT on 1.45V @ 4.9GHz and a 20C ambient (should I remount?).
> 
> I have GT AP-15s and with them on full blast the noise isn't too bad. The Corsair Link software has no problem ramping up the fans, but doesn't seem to ever slow them down. I might just hook up to my mobo and use the Asus fan control software.


Don't forget IBT is really killer on the system. Personally I like using it because it gives me a great safety margin since my system is unlikely to experience temps like that under normal use. Maybe you should try running something you do a lot, like favorite games, and then check your temps? You could always go to P95 as well. It's a great utility for perhaps giving you temps that are a little closer to real world.

Is there a reason why you want to hit 5GHz? Just, like, bragging rights? I'm using the same CPU you are, and at 4.5GHz I get about 70c when using IBT set to maximum. I don't think reseating will help you in this case. I notice you're in Boston (condolences). How is your ambient? Mine is about 24c. I think your temp is reasonable for your clock.

Will your motherboard control 3-pin fans?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So on the water block there's a couple scratches on the copper part which makes contact with the CPU. But the scratches aren't over the CPU, they're over the sides of the CPU near the edge of the CPU. Should I still RMA it to Newegg? I noticed it yesterday but I didn't think much of it until now.


No
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Um... Take a deep breath. Calm down. Stop being so paranoid! LOL. I noticed you've been posting a lot regarding stuff you shouldn't be worrying about on this thread. As long as it's light scratches, you're fine!


Good advice.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> What would you constitute as "deep?"


Dude, if it's not touching the CPU, then it's irrelevant. You're cooler is working good. Why would you want to take a chance on getting one that doesn't work as good?


----------



## pc-illiterate

i would not call the sabertooth high end. it was designed as a cheap board for gamers with everything a gamer needs. when it became more popular than the more expensive boards, asus raised the price.
seriously tell me why its more expensive than these other z77 boards.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007627%2050001315%20600093976&IsNodeId=1&bop=And&CompareItemList=280|13-131-821^13-131-821-TS%2C13-131-819^13-131-819-05%23%2C13-131-820^13-131-820-TS%2C13-131-830^13-131-830-TS&percm=13-131-821%3A%24%24%24%24%24%24%24%3B13-131-819%3A%24%24%24%24%24%24%24%3B13-131-820%3A%24%24%24%24%24%24%24%3B13-131-830%3A%24%24%24%24%24%24%24
power phases
the v pro is 12+4+2 and the sabertooth is 8+4+2. seriously? a more expensive board with less actual features? it has tuf armor. thats all it has besides loud fans on 2 heatsinks that do nothing but add noise.
http://event.asus.com/2012/mb/z77_all_series/
i'll stick with a pro or evo. power phases > armor


----------



## Anoxy

aesthetics?


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> What would you constitute as "deep?"


Well, there's a big canyon on Mars and I would say that's pretty deep.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Dude, if it's not touching the CPU, then it's irrelevant. You're cooler is working good. Why would you want to take a chance on getting one that doesn't work as good?


Well, it is over the CPU, but its not over the center of the CPU where the most heat is generated, its near the edge of the CPU. But it doesn't seem to be much of an issue because the scratches aren't on the center of the CPU.


----------



## Dr Slaughter

Hey guys, Did somebody already made a custom water cooling for H60 2013?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> hokay, stupid question incoming:
> 
> will adding two more fans to my H100i as push/pull benefit my entire system's temps, or just my CPU?


CPU, about 2c.
Rest of system, 1c is you are very lucky!


----------



## Seeing Red

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Don't forget IBT is really killer on the system. Personally I like using it because it gives me a great safety margin since my system is unlikely to experience temps like that under normal use. Maybe you should try running something you do a lot, like favorite games, and then check your temps? You could always go to P95 as well. It's a great utility for perhaps giving you temps that are a little closer to real world.


Yeah, I like using it to test the limits of the system. For 5GHz and only uping the multi I would need about 1.5V. I haven't done any tweaking so I should be able to get my vcore down a bit.
Quote:


> Is there a reason why you want to hit 5GHz? Just, like, bragging rights? I'm using the same CPU you are, and at 4.5GHz I get about 70c when using IBT set to maximum. I don't think reseating will help you in this case. I notice you're in Boston (condolences). How is your ambient? Mine is about 24c. I think your temp is reasonable for your clock.
> 
> Will your motherboard control 3-pin fans?[/


Not really a good reason, but I just want to reach the same level clocks I had before I downsized from my custom loop. I'm moving my PC so my ambients will probably go up by 6C. Thank you for the sanity check.


----------



## ozzy1925

ok here is a problem again i used artic cleaner to remove the thermal paste and let my heatsink dry for 1-2 hours now i see spots and i can not remove them whatever i do .What should i do now ?


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> ok here is a problem again i used artic cleaner to remove the thermal paste and let my heatsink dry for 1-2 hours now i see spots and i can not remove them whatever i do. What should i do now ?


As long as you clean it thoroughly... it's fine. The arctic cleaning kit is the one with 2 bottles, right? You don't need to wait 1-2 hours for your heatsink to dry. Bottle #2 dries your heatsink within a few seconds...


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Hey everyone, I will be changing out my dying h50 with an h60 (got it from a friend dirt cheap) and will be doing push/pull exhaust with gentle typhoon ap-15's, as well as installing a new GPU.

So this all got me thinking about my fans. Right now I have the following in my CM 690 ii advanced:

2x140mm top exhaust
1x140mm intake
2x120mm push/pull exhaust on h50

Since I am putting a gtx 770 with acx cooler (will dump heat into case not out back) should i make the h60 push/pull intake, so it blows air in and gets exhausted through top 2 140mm fans?


----------



## DireLeon2010

I think the pump on my H60 pooped out









Is this common after a couple of years? Or should I not worry and go ahead and buy another?


----------



## H3r3tic

I think hwmonitor matters on your motherboard mine reports both in hwinfo


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage*
> 
> Hey everyone, I will be changing out my dying h50 with an h60 (got it from a friend dirt cheap) and will be doing push/pull exhaust with gentle typhoon ap-15's, as well as installing a new GPU.
> 
> So this all got me thinking about my fans. Right now I have the following in my CM 690 ii advanced:
> 
> 2x140mm top exhaust
> 1x140mm intake
> 2x120mm push/pull exhaust on h50
> 
> Since I am putting a gtx 770 with acx cooler (will dump heat into case not out back) should i make the h60 push/pull intake, so it blows air in and gets exhausted through top 2 140mm fans?


yes because you definitely need more intake as it is now.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> yes because you definitely need more intake as it is now.


Makes sense, thanks for taking the time to reply and help me out, I really appreciate it


----------



## pc-illiterate

no problem at all. we are all here to help and learn


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage*
> 
> Hey everyone, I will be changing out my dying h50 with an h60 (got it from a friend dirt cheap) and will be doing push/pull exhaust with gentle typhoon ap-15's, as well as installing a new GPU.
> 
> So this all got me thinking about my fans. Right now I have the following in my CM 690 ii advanced:
> 
> 2x140mm top exhaust
> 1x140mm intake
> 2x120mm push/pull exhaust on h50
> 
> Since I am putting a gtx 770 with acx cooler (will dump heat into case not out back) should i make the h60 push/pull intake, so it blows air in and gets exhausted through top 2 140mm fans?


I agree w/pc-illiterate. This is a classic case (no-Pun?) where an intake setup "could" be more beneficial, but understand you "may" have to clean your radiator more often, so keep an eye on it. I also think the couple of degrees you'll gain by using intake over exhaust will help as I suspect that with your rather aggressive OC that your H50 and subsequent new H60 is maxed out trying to keep up. Plus now your going to add more case heat with your new non-reference, OC'd(?) 770. Your only other option if you wanted to stick with exhaust is add another 120mm on your left panel as intake, I don't believe a 2nd one (upper) would clear the H60?

Try it out both ways and let us know what you think









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DireLeon2010*
> 
> I think the pump on my H60 pooped out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this common after a couple of years? Or should I not worry and go ahead and buy another?


Are you sure it's dead? more details would help? temps/noise/bios pump rpms etc ...
If for sure it is dead, I think your still under warranty and an RMA is fairly painless w/Corsair.


----------



## DireLeon2010

I reinstalled it three times, plugging it in different ways and even flipping it over. The faceplate over the CPU got hot, but not the radiator or tubes. So I'm pretty sure, yeah. Guess it didn't like running my 960T at 4.0 24/7









The updated H60 looks like it's good though. I didn't keep any of the documentation that came with my H60 so, I don't think I can return it.


----------



## theonedub

Finally got around to RMAing my H100 that has had the smallest hint of pump grinding since I got it (not nearly as bad as the 2 other H60's I had to have replaced). Each of my H60s were replaced with identical models, so I was pretty surprised when my RMA replacement from Corsair was a H100i.

That was a pretty good move on their part, and I am pleased with how their support service has improved over the years.


----------



## DireLeon2010

So do I inquire online, on their website? Call Corsair? Would be nice to get a replacement.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DireLeon2010*
> 
> So do I inquire online, on their website? Call Corsair? Would be nice to get a replacement.


Join here and find RAMGUY, he will help with the RMA - http://forum.corsair.com/v3/forumdisplay.php?f=155

Had to edit: sorry


----------



## theonedub

I would submit an RMA request on their updated support site: http://corsair.secure.force.com.

They usually reply within 2 business days. If you don't hear anything by then, either get with them over the phone (1-888-222-4346) or during their live chat hours. For the past 3 RMAs I have done, Corsair has not asked for a receipt, just the serial numbers off the products and lot codes.


----------



## DireLeon2010

Thanks







I'll check it out.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Thanks Tomcat! I will be installing the h60 on friday (as intake) and will report back on the temps..thanks for the reply!


----------



## CannedBullets

So, anyone in here who has had trouble with Scythe Gentle Typhoons on Corsair Link? Someone on the Scythe GT thread said that he had issues with it, but I'm not sure if its widespread.


----------



## Seeing Red

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So, anyone in here who has had trouble with Scythe Gentle Typhoons on Corsair Link? Someone on the Scythe GT thread said that he had issues with it, but I'm not sure if its widespread.


RPM control is kind of broken with the GTs. I'm not even sure if it's reading the correct RPM. The max range I can control my AP15s according to the control panel is 1400 to slightly less than 1700 RPM. I'll see if I can verify the RPM with my Aquero when I get home.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seeing Red*
> 
> RPM control is kind of broken with the GTs. I'm not even sure if it's reading the correct RPM. The max range I can control my AP15s according to the control panel is 1400 to slightly less than 1700 RPM. I'll see if I can verify the RPM with my Aquero when I get home.


I can't speak tothat but I can say that my SP 120 PWM fans work quite well with it and don't sound like a jet engine.


----------



## Dr Slaughter

*add me*


----------



## TimberWolf93

Not the greatest pic, new hardware aswell since this was taken. This was when my system was new built.


----------



## CannedBullets

This is weird. After I updated my firmware the LED on my H80i won't go to the color I set it to in CorsairLink. It stays at its default LED color.


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> This is weird. After I updated my firmware the LED on my H80i won't go to the color I set it to in CorsairLink. It stays at its default LED color.


http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=118867

Did you follow exactly as it says above _BEFORE_ updating the firmware?

Also, you could try this.

Quote:


> Delete this folder %appdata%\corsair
> 
> That folder contains your old profile and I don't think it is compatible now that you have upgraded the firmware


----------



## Anoxy

So, to the people with H100is:

Do you run the fans at 2000RPM all of the time? Mine are set to that by default and it's extremely noisy. I don't know if I should be looking at different fans or if I should just lower their speed to like 900rpm?

Any tips are greatly appreciated.


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So, to the people with H100is:
> 
> Do you run the fans at 2000RPM all of the time? Mine are set to that by default and it's extremely noisy. I don't know if I should be looking at different fans or if I should just lower their speed to like 900rpm?
> 
> Any tips are greatly appreciated.


I usually set mine to balanced mode. The fan will auto adjust to a certain RPM depending on temp - so it's in a tolerable noise level to me.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=118867
> 
> Did you follow exactly as it says above _BEFORE_ updating the firmware?
> 
> Also, you could try this.


Crap. Should I try that and reinstall the firmware update?


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Crap. Should I try that and reinstall the firmware update?


Try deleting the corsair folder ( %appdata%\corsair ), set everything to default, and restart your comp first.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Try deleting the corsair folder ( %appdata%\corsair ), set everything to default, and restart your comp first.


Okay. Yeah I tried making a new profile and that didn't work either. What's the location of the folder I need to get rid of?


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Okay. Yeah I tried making a new profile and that didn't work either. What's the location of the folder I need to get rid of?


I just said it... %appdata%\corsair <- that one. The corsair folder.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> I just said it... %appdata%\corsair <- that one. The corsair folder.


thanks, I'm in the folder right now. There's three items.

Profiles
sierra2_ui.cfg
tempmat.dat

I know you have to delete the Profiles, but do I delete the other two items or do I just leave them there?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So, to the people with H100is:
> 
> Do you run the fans at 2000RPM all of the time? Mine are set to that by default and it's extremely noisy. I don't know if I should be looking at different fans or if I should just lower their speed to like 900rpm?
> 
> Any tips are greatly appreciated.


Depends on your overclocks, load temps, ambients, setup etc etc. Many of us with the older H100/H80's run at the "Low" setting (stock fans @1300-1400rpm) with low noise and acceptable load temps even with fairly aggressive overclocks ... see *[HERE]*

Spec wise your fans are a little less aggressive than the H100 originals, but Roxy's suggestion of "Balanced" (??? RPM's) is a good starting point depending on the above









When my entire system is under full load my GPU(s) are the loudest component by far, probably because I have my fan profiles set so the load temps don't go above 65c and they ramp up pretty quickly under load. Something you should especially be aware with those badarse 780's as they will start throttling at 70c if I remember correctly, like the 6xx series


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> thanks, I'm in the folder right now. There's three items.
> 
> Profiles
> sierra2_ui.cfg
> tempmat.dat
> 
> I know you have to delete the Profiles, but do I delete the other two items or do I just leave them there?


Delete everything that is in the corsair folder, set profile back to default, and restart your computer.


----------



## CannedBullets

Okay, deleting the Corsair files didn't work, reinstalling the firmware update didn't work. My LED color still won't change. I might have to RMA my motherboard, should I RMA my H80i along with the motherboard?


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Okay, deleting the Corsair files didn't work, reinstalling the firmware update didn't work. My LED color still won't change. I might have to RMA my motherboard, should I RMA my H80i along with the motherboard?


You don't need to RMA your motherboard... just the H80i if no led really bugs you. The thing is, why did you need to install the latest firmware anyway?


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> You don't need to RMA your motherboard... just the H80i if no led really bugs you. The thing is, why did you need to install the latest firmware anyway?


i was trying to troubleshoot. If you're curious this is what I was trying to troubleshoot. http://www.overclock.net/t/1410798/defective-motherboard

Yeah I kept getting an error in event viewer saying I needed to update my firmware. So I made sure every thign was updated. Bios was updated (I flashed it when I installed the board last Friday) and chipset drivers updated. Then I tried the H80i's firmware because I was still getting the error because maybe the H80i was affecting it somehow. Right now I'm thinking it could be a defective motherboard.


----------



## Miss Roxy

Your H80i should have nothing to do with your mobo problem.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Your H80i should have nothing to do with your mobo problem.


Yeah, but I think I should RMA it anyways along with my board because the LED issue is actually really bothering me. Also on the cord which connects the two fans to the waterblock I accidentally pulled out three pins from the connector to the waterblock when I was reseating the waterblock because I stupidly put too much force so I think I could use that as an excuse. I pushed the pins back in with a flathead screwdriver and that seemed to work but I'm not sure if it will last.


----------



## Miss Roxy

Regarding your mobo - try this: http://www.eightforums.com/tutorials/6320-fast-startup-turn-off-windows-8-a.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Yeah, but I think I should RMA it anyways along with my board because the LED issue is actually really bothering me. Also on the cord which connects the two fans to the waterblock I accidentally pulled out three pins from the connector to the waterblock when I was reseating the waterblock because I stupidly put too much force so I think I could use that as an excuse. I pushed the pins back in with a flathead screwdriver and that seemed to work but I'm not sure if it will last.


Why would say that about the LED problem? You could just say LED doesn't work with all the troubleshooting you've done and they'll replace it for you. If you tell them that you possibly broke the pin (???) or something due to your own error, they wouldn't replace it.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So, to the people with H100is:
> 
> Do you run the fans at 2000RPM all of the time? Mine are set to that by default and it's extremely noisy. I don't know if I should be looking at different fans or if I should just lower their speed to like 900rpm?
> 
> Any tips are greatly appreciated.


I use the H100, and I have mine set to Low. They still ramp up, up to the limit that Balanced starts at, but its enough to keep my CPU cool (50C) during gaming. I dont like the loudness either on High.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Regarding your mobo - try this: http://www.eightforums.com/tutorials/6320-fast-startup-turn-off-windows-8-a.html
> 
> Why would say that about the LED problem? You could just say LED doesn't work with all the troubleshooting you've done and they'll replace it for you. If you tell them that you possibly broke the pin (???) or something due to your own error, they wouldn't replace it.


Right, hopefully they'll think the cord which connects the fans to the waterblock are just a weird manufacturing issue because the fix I did with the flathead screwdriver doesn't exactly look nice even though it works. You think I should mention the minor scratches on the waterblock? They don't affect the cooling but it is noticeable.


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Right, hopefully they'll think the cord which connects the fans to the waterblock are just a weird manufacturing issue because the fix I did with the flathead screwdriver doesn't exactly look nice even though it works. You think I should mention the minor scratches on the waterblock? They don't affect the cooling but it is noticeable.


Uh... no? because the scratches on the block are probably from your own error.

All you need to say is: *the LED doesn't work* and that's it.



Anyway! I'm kinda bored and I want to try a different thermal paste. The current paste I'm using on my H100i is MX-4. I have recently obtained a tube of Shin-Etsu X-23 7738D for free and was wondering if I'll see any difference in temp. If not, then I wont bother, lol.

What do you guys think?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Right, hopefully they'll think the cord which connects the fans to the waterblock are just a weird manufacturing issue because the fix I did with the flathead screwdriver doesn't exactly look nice even though it works. You think I should mention the minor scratches on the waterblock? They don't affect the cooling but it is noticeable.


For your firmware issue, update the BIOS to the latest version for the motherboard, and update firmware for any SSD's you might have. Back up all data before doing so. As for the cooler, these marks should not hurt performance as TIM fills the gaps, but if you are still not happy, send the cooler back and say the LED's are acting up and the performance has degraded lately. (Before anyone says that is RMA fraud, it's not. For all we know, those scratches could have degraded performance and the LED's really are acting up and the items under warranty, so he might as well ask for a replacement, then it is up to the retailer to do so based on the condition of the unit once received).


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> For your firmware issue, update the BIOS to the latest version for the motherboard, and update firmware for any SSD's you might have. Back up all data before doing so. As for the cooler, these marks should not hurt performance as TIM fills the gaps, but if you are still not happy, send the cooler back and say the LED's are acting up and the performance has degraded lately. (Before anyone says that is RMA fraud, it's not. For all we know, those scratches could have degraded performance and the LED's really are acting up and the items under warranty, so he might as well ask for a replacement, then it is up to the retailer to do so based on the condition of the unit once received).


Well, technically it is a minor RMA fraud in a way - because the rough handling to the cable/pin was his own fault. LOL.


----------



## Destrto

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Uh... no? because the scratches on the block are probably from your own error.
> 
> All you need to say is: *the LED doesn't work* and that's it.






Anyway! I'm kinda bored and I want to try a different thermal paste. The current paste I'm using on my H100i is MX-4. I have recently obtained a tube of Shin-Etsu X-23 7738D for free and was wondering if I'll see any difference in temp. If not, then I wont bother, lol.

What do you guys think?

I've heard others say that a certain model of Shin Etsu is what is used on these when you receive them. So, you may not see much difference in temps.

When I replaced my H100's stock paste with this Silicon based stuff (newegg noname brand, so cheap stuff) I didnt see any change in temps.


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I've heard others say that a certain model of Shin Etsu is what is used on these when you receive them. So, you may not see much difference in temps.
> 
> When I replaced my H100's stock paste with this Silicon based stuff (newegg noname brand, so cheap stuff) I didnt see any change in temps.


I've never tried the stock paste on H100i... so I have no idea. XD


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> I've never tried the stock paste on H100i... so I have no idea. XD


Other members here have commented on it, seems to be fairly good stuff. I personally dont think you will notice much difference. Couldn't hurt to try though, right?


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Other members here have commented on it, seems to be fairly good stuff. I personally dont think you will notice much difference. Couldn't hurt to try though, right?


Well... I went ahead and applied Shin-Etsu X-23 7738D on my H100i.
I ran Prime95 for 1 hour and did not see any difference in temp. LOL

( Compared to MX-4 )


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Well, technically it is a minor RMA fraud in a way - because the rough handling to the cable/pin was his own fault. LOL.


I'll admit. I was an issue on my end. I got annoyed so I brute forced it, which is probably the cardinal rule of PC building, never brute force things.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> For your firmware issue, update the BIOS to the latest version for the motherboard, and update firmware for any SSD's you might have. Back up all data before doing so. As for the cooler, these marks should not hurt performance as TIM fills the gaps, but if you are still not happy, send the cooler back and say the LED's are acting up and the performance has degraded lately. (Before anyone says that is RMA fraud, it's not. For all we know, those scratches could have degraded performance and the LED's really are acting up and the items under warranty, so he might as well ask for a replacement, then it is up to the retailer to do so based on the condition of the unit once received).


Yep, flashed to the latest bios, updated my chipset drivers, no SSDs to update, looks like I'll have to rMA my board if I get the same issues again. I'll probably say that the cooling isn't as good as expected and that the LED work properly and I still have no idea where the scratches are from but I'll just leave that out and say the cooling isn't as good as expected.

Also, is there any noticeable difference between Arctic Silver 5 and Shin Etsu? Or should I just stick with my AS5?


----------



## Destrto

AS5 is outdated and is conductive.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> AS5 is outdated and is conductive.


So is it worth getting Shin Etsu? I've always heard that AS5 is the best for value which is why I use it.


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So is it worth getting Shin Etsu? I've always heard that AS5 is the best for value which is why I use it.


Well... if you do get Shin-Etsu, get the X-23 7738D.
MX-4 is great, too. They're both comparable to each other in terms of performance.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Well... if you do get Shin-Etsu, get the X-23 7738D.
> MX-4 is great, too. They're both comparable to each other in terms of performance.


^This.

There are alot of other thermal pastes that are comparable to AS5 and cheap. I personally use this Silicone based paste that has given me practically the same temps as the stock paste from any of these that come with that version of Shin Etsu or similar.


----------



## Miss Roxy

On top of that, AS5 takes around 200hr to cure. So yeah... it takes quite a while to see the optimal temp result.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> i was trying to troubleshoot. If you're curious this is what I was trying to troubleshoot. http://www.overclock.net/t/1410798/defective-motherboard
> 
> Yeah I kept getting an error in event viewer saying I needed to update my firmware. So I made sure every thign was updated. Bios was updated (I flashed it when I installed the board last Friday) and chipset drivers updated. Then I tried the H80i's firmware because I was still getting the error because maybe the H80i was affecting it somehow. Right now I'm thinking it could be a defective motherboard.


Have you joined the ASUS service forums and asked there? Have you tried changing the memory timings? Is your memory from their approved list? Usually when I see assorted problems showing up like this at work, swapping out the memory gets things working properly. However, I couldn't say this for sure on your board, but memory problems can cause some odd errors.

As for your H80, leave a message on the corsair forum explaining what you did. They may be able to help you put it back the way it was. Maybe you can flash it with the old firmware again. I noted at the link that was posted above, Corsair specifically said not to use that firmware update unless you were experiencing some of the problems they list.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Right, hopefully they'll think the cord which connects the fans to the waterblock are just a weird manufacturing issue because the fix I did with the flathead screwdriver doesn't exactly look nice even though it works. You think I should mention the minor scratches on the waterblock? They don't affect the cooling but it is noticeable.


Man, you do know that Corsair George reads these forums, right? No disrespect intended man, but you've screwed up your cooler through inexperience and doing things Corsair says not to, and now you're talking about how you hope they won't notice you broke it.

I think it's pretty amazing how these companies turn a blind eye on occasion.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Uh... no? because the scratches on the block are probably from your own error.
> 
> All you need to say is: *the LED doesn't work* and that's it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway! I'm kinda bored and I want to try a different thermal paste. The current paste I'm using on my H100i is MX-4. I have recently obtained a tube of Shin-Etsu X-23 7738D for free and was wondering if I'll see any difference in temp. If not, then I wont bother, lol.
> 
> What do you guys think?


I would expect less than a degree, but go for. I'm still curious. I want to try some Liquid Ultra, but it's just too expensive for what you get so I can't talk myself into purchasing it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I've heard others say that a certain model of Shin Etsu is what is used on these when you receive them. So, you may not see much difference in temps.
> 
> When I replaced my H100's stock paste with this Silicon based stuff (newegg noname brand, so cheap stuff) I didnt see any change in temps.


As far as I know, Shin Etsu was used on older coolers (H50, H70, older H60), but the newer coolers (H80, H100 and newer) use Dow Corning. I agree with you that I doubt he'll see much of a difference though since I think the MX-4 is very competitive with the high end TIMs as is the Dow Corning.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Well... I went ahead and applied Shin-Etsu X-23 7738D on my H100i.
> I ran Prime95 for 1 hour and did not see any difference in temp. LOL
> 
> ( Compared to MX-4 )


Nice to have the confirmation.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> AS5 is outdated and is conductive.


It's capacitive actually, and only slightly at that.

http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appmeth/int/md/intel_app_method_middle_dot_v1.1.pdf

It's not "out dated" as it competes with the best Shin Etsu paste after a curing time. I can link to several TIM comparisons showing AS5 to compete with the best (other than metal pastes which can be more difficult to manage and apply). This is an enthusiast level paste, and anyone using a correct application will not only have no issues with it, but will see temperatures pretty much as good as they can get with non metal paste. AS5 is still one of the most popular TIMs in use.


----------



## Destrto

Thanks for the correction Merg, I only meant outdated as in it has been out for a long time, not intended as degrading in its performance.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Have you joined the ASUS service forums and asked there? Have you tried changing the memory timings? Is your memory from their approved list? Usually when I see assorted problems showing up like this at work, swapping out the memory gets things working properly. However, I couldn't say this for sure on your board, but memory problems can cause some odd errors.


Yeah I checked, my RAM is on their compatible list. I'll try Asus forums.

Also Corsair George I am sorry if you're reading this. But I'm new to PC building and I like building and I like parts selections and I would gladly recommend Corsair products. But I've had this Windows issue which could be a motherboard issue that's been stumping me so I thought I had to update my H80i firmware because I kept getting an error in Event Viewer saying I had to update my firmware so I stupidly thought updating the H80i firmware would fix it.


----------



## Miss Roxy

Um... anyone want to help me OC my 2500K to 4.5 now that I have H100i? lol.

I know that I'll have to read more into it... but it's always nice to have someone experienced that can help, too.


----------



## waslakhani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Um... anyone want to help me OC my 2500K to 4.5 now that I have H100i? lol.
> 
> I know that I'll have to read more into it... but it's always nice to have someone experienced that can help, too.


*This* should be helpful to help you overclock your 2500k.


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waslakhani*
> 
> This should be helpful to help you overclock your 2500k.


You mean reading more into it? then yeah - I know. o_o


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> You mean reading more into it? then yeah - I know. o_o


"This" is a link. in his post


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> "This" is a link. in his post


OH! HURRR DURRR I totally missed that! * facepalm *


----------



## DUpgrade

^ THAT was too funny.









When I transplanted my cases I decided to remove the block from the mobo and clean the tim. I'm using Shin-Etsu X23 7738D which is quite comparable to the dow corning stuff they use on these as stock. I didn't notice any real temp change between the two. I've still got AS5 as well but have never tried it on my H80i as it requires a curing time and I fold 24/7 so my rig is never idle. Unless there's something wrong with your temps I don't see any need to reseat it just to change TIM on there. Unless you're bored then I guess knock yourself out.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> OH! HURRR DURRR I totally missed that! * facepalm *


Glad I could help out!!


----------



## Miss Roxy

So um... I tried 4.5ghz @ 1.25v...



CPU multiplier 45x
CPU voltage 1.25v
CPU PLL 1.80v
VCCSA 0.925v
VCCIO 1.105V

What other tests can I do so that I know it's stable? and for how long?


----------



## waslakhani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> So um... I tried 4.5ghz @ 1.25v...
> 
> 
> 
> CPU multiplier 45x
> CPU voltage 1.25v
> CPU PLL 1.80v
> VCCSA 0.925v
> VCCIO 1.105V
> 
> What other tests can I do so that I know it's stable? and for how long?


I would test it with Intel Burn Test as long as you want but the longer you test it the better for to know it is stable.


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waslakhani*
> 
> I would test it with Intel Burn Test as long as you want but the longer you test it the better for to know it is stable.


Hm. Well... I'm currently running Prime95 ( since an hour ago ) and I suppose I'll let it run for 10 hours or something. Would that be long enough? XD or no.


----------



## waslakhani

Well if stability is important than yes. If not no.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Hm. Well... I'm currently running Prime95 ( since an hour ago ) and I suppose I'll let it run for 10 hours or something. Would that be long enough? XD or no.


I use IBT (with Very High setting at least) & Prime95 Custom with 90% physical memory (get available memory from task manager & use 90% of the memory). You can run Prime95 up to 12/24 hours if you want. No stress test are definitive but they're useful to check stability & as well as find out the max temperature when CPU fully loaded.


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I use IBT (with Very High setting at least) & Prime95 Custom with 90% physical memory (get available memory from task manager & use 90% of the memory). You can run Prime95 up to 12/24 hours if you want. No stress test are definitive but they're useful to check stability & as well as find out the max temperature when CPU fully loaded.


Ah I see.









By the way, I set the CPU voltage to 1.240v for lulz in bios setting... but why does it show as 1.248v in CPU-Z?

Does it count as 1.25 ( rounded up? ) or 1.24? ( I'm assuming the former o_o )


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Ah I see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, I set the CPU voltage to 1.240v for lulz in bios setting... but why does it show as 1.248v in CPU-Z?
> 
> Does it count as 1.25 ( rounded up? ) or 1.24? ( I'm assuming the former o_o )


That because Load Line Calibration. The voltage is increased to compensate voltage drop (Vdroop).

It will be 1.248V, not 1.25 or 1.24.


----------



## H3r3tic

That's a very good clock at a low voltage. I'm pulling 1.4v @ 4.8ghz on my 2500k on hyper 212. I'm also using a very tight llc at level 5. I'm still using offset mode though. I don't like constant voltage being pumped in when the cpu is idle. I also kept all sleep states and power saving features on. I only tested 10 passes ibt at very high. Been stable for months.

I also used this thread for most of my info http://www.overclock.net/t/1198504/complete-overclocking-guide-sandy-bridge-ivy-bridge-asrock-edition


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Um... anyone want to help me OC my 2500K to 4.5 now that I have H100i? lol.
> 
> I know that I'll have to read more into it... but it's always nice to have someone experienced that can help, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> So um... I tried 4.5ghz @ 1.25v...
> 
> 
> 
> CPU multiplier 45x
> CPU voltage 1.25v
> CPU PLL 1.80v
> VCCSA 0.925v
> VCCIO 1.105V
> 
> What other tests can I do so that I know it's stable? and for how long?
Click to expand...

Nice job! Forgot some details but +R for your screenie! You have a very nice 2500K (low volts/high clocks/maybe stable?) Stability in overclocking is a very subjective thing. Ask 10 OC'ers about stability and you'll get 10 slightly to moderately varying opinions. A lot can depend on your primary use/application for your rig? ... is 4.5GHz OC the 24/7 clock you want? If your still working to a higher clock then the 12/24 hr prime runs are a waste of time in my book, and really an 8-12hr P95 overnight (go to bed) for my final 24/7 if I've done the progression listed below 1st.

Boot into Windows --> setup monitoring programs --> check/record initial vCore/temps

Run HyperPI 1m/8m --> 10min P95 Blend --> IBT Standard (setting) 10 pass ...

This will initially and quickly expose "potentially" unstable OC's while giving you a good indication if your cooling is up to the job. And by all accounts your cooling looks very good probably due to your modest vCore. But you forgot to list your ambients? sooo the rest of us can't be totally sure ... You don't live in Antarctica do you? LoL







An educated guess of ambients would be 24c per your idle temps? maybe?







It would also be good for you to remind us of your setup ... ie. push / pull / push-pull ... Top? intake or exhaust? I think I remember stock fans on "balanced" setting, so that's good









Before doing the tedious long term P95/IBT tests I run a custom P95 1344 and 1792 FFT's for at least 10-20min each, longer if I'm patient. See more details *[HERE]* scroll down to my last screenie and read the links on P95 ... one of them *[HERE]*

Then if all is good and depending on the primary use of the computer, like NOT crunching numbers for NASA or setting up Military flight sims ... I will run extended P95 and/or sometimes IBT Very High/max memory extended passes. again see and read the links above or *[THIS]* discussion on stress testing









If your primarily gaming then I'd possibly move into GPU testing and actual higher stress game benches like BF3/Crysis etc before the above Long/Longer tests ... Depending on your setup this can also add a lot of heat to your overall case/mobo/CPU temps causing them to go unstable, in addition to the *"unique"* cpu/gpu combination stress caused by some simulations and games









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waslakhani*
> 
> *This* should be helpful to help you overclock your 2500k.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> You mean reading more into it? then yeah - I know. o_o
Click to expand...

That's a funny semi-insult, happened to me all the time so I started [bracketing] and *bolding* my "LINKs"








Nice link by the way "specific" to the Sabertooth mobo


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> And by all accounts your cooling looks very good probably due to your modest vCore. But you forgot to list your ambients? sooo the rest of us can't be totally sure ... You don't live in Antarctica do you? LoL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An educated guess of ambients would be 24c per your idle temps? maybe?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would also be good for you to remind us of your setup ... ie. push / pull / push-pull ... Top? intake or exhaust? I think I remember stock fans on "balanced" setting, so that's good


Hi ~
My ambient temp was 81F... so that is 27c I believe?
As for setup... The 2 fan's are located below the radiator and it's pushing air up. What is that classified as? lol. =X

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2868115

Yes, 4.5 is the clock I want. Is having it 4.5 at 1.25v 24/7 ( did not use offset ) safe?


----------



## RxKx271

Here is My h50 in my modded antec 300


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Hi ~
> My ambient temp was 81F... so that is 27c I believe?
> As for setup... The 2 fan's are located below the radiator and it's pushing air up. What is that classified as? lol. =X
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2868115
> 
> Yes, 4.5 is the clock I want. Is having it 4.5 at 1.25v 24/7 ( did not use offset ) safe?


That would be a Top/Exhaust with fans in the Push position ... your temps/setup looks very good! And even with your somewhat high ambients you have plenty of headroom to go higher if you wish but 4.5Ghz OC is a solid 24/7 overclock ... I like it









And assuming your 670 is a reference model, dumping most of the heat out the back, you don't have to worry about additional added case heat when it is fully loaded either


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> That would be a Top/Exhaust with fans in the Push position ... your temps/setup looks very good! And even with your somewhat high ambients you have plenty of headroom to go higher if you wish but 4.5Ghz OC is a solid 24/7 overclock ... I like it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And assuming your 670 is a reference model, dumping most of the heat out the back, you don't have to worry about additional added case heat when it is fully loaded either


Yay! Thanks for your help ^_^!


----------



## H3r3tic

I'm not one for putting pointless hours of prime on a cpu to each their own. I usually Do 10 passes very high of ibt then when that passes run prime 95 and a 3d mark test simultaneously. If that passes then you should be fine with that. I've actually had harder times with video overclocks over cpu.

I've ran hours of heaven 3d mark and valley thought I was stable. Then would get in borderlands or battlefield and crash. Reboot lower overclocks a hair and try again. Finally found a healthy medium and been good for months since. When and if I encounter a crash I used the program whoscrashed to read the error code dump and follow up on it.

Your overclocks should be great. Although with constant with such low voltage you can probablu Do an offset of 0 or maybe even negative and just bring llc to level 4 or 5 to bring less vdroop for more of a power saving oc. At 4.5 I had a -.045 offset with level 5 llc resulting in 1.31v max. Now to get to 4.8 I have offset at +.100 bringing my voltage to 1.416 max. I needed quite a bump in voltage to get past 4.6. I have a feeling you got a chip you can see 5ghz on no problem.


----------



## Miss Roxy

Um... is there any harm when overclocking on manual mode 24/7 ( running 4.5ghz @ 1.25v ) as opposed to offset mode, though? ( as in, would the CPU life degrade faster on manual compared to offset? )

I ran Prime 95 blend for 12 hours w/o error on manual... but I'm not sure what + or - # to use when it comes to offset mode.


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Um... is there any harm when overclocking on manual mode 24/7 ( running 4.5ghz @ 1.25v ) as opposed to offset mode, though? ( as in, would the CPU life degrade faster on manual compared to offset? )
> 
> I ran Prime 95 blend for 12 hours w/o error on manual... but I'm not sure what + or - # to use when it comes to offset mode.


I've never heard of CPU degrade before, and no there is no harm, the only thing is other parts may run hotter as well when overclocking, like VRMs, make sure everything running cool and you'll be set for 24/7.


----------



## 420Killah

Heres my Corsair H100i in the CM Storm Scout 2








I'm going to be overclocking my i5 2500k to 4.5GHz again once I get my order of Prolimatech PK 3 thermal paste but some cheap crap can hold me out for two more days


----------



## H3r3tic

There's definitely degrade in cpu over time also more work for a power supply. Pumping a higher voltage constantly vs letting it lowering voltages when not being used will effect long term. Not that it matters by the time even if the cpu died you would most likely upgrade anyway.

Higher voltage equals more heat. Heat means more wattage being wasted. Just less efficient. That's all. I prefer offset. 0 is your base voltage positive will let the voltage raise higher when under load negative will keep voltage lower under load. Object of most overclocking is to get the lowest voltage possible while staying stable.

I would start at 0 offset and set line load calibration to its highest usually level 5 for most motherboards. Boot and test. Take note of where the voltage is under load in ibt. If its stable but voltage is higher then 1.25 then try lowering the offset to a negative like -.015 and test again. Take note of the vcore. If still higher then 1.25 then lower the offset more and repeat the same steps until you are satisfied with the vcore results.

Offset will automatically lower voltage for the cpu when it isnt needed thus leading to cooler idle temps and less wattage being used. Less voltage = less wattage = less heat = lower electric biil (not that most people care). Now you already have low temps but why not try for lower. Plus being under water you have a lot of room to work with. 1.25v at 4.5 is awesome. I wanna say you can see 4.9ghz under 1.4v which is still awesomely safe everyday use. I could be wrong but either way offset is an awesome thing implemented in newer systems to keep things on the greener side of our power hungry setups.


----------



## pc-illiterate

0 offset is what the cpu tells the mobo it 'wants' for a base voltage for operation at that speed under load. + adds the offset amount to this 'base' voltage. - subtracts the offset amount from the base voltage.
you have to add or subtract to keep your voltage reading the same under load as you had it when entered manual.
and remember, you want as low an LLC level as you can. since youre on an asus mobo, try using medium llc. if that doesnt work, try high. please dont use higher than high, it actually isnt good.


----------



## H3r3tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> 0 offset is what the cpu tells the mobo it 'wants' for a base voltage for operation at that speed under load. + adds the offset amount to this 'base' voltage. - subtracts the offset amount from the base voltage.
> you have to add or subtract to keep your voltage reading the same under load as you had it when entered manual.
> and remember, you want as low an LLC level as you can. since youre on an asus mobo, try using medium llc. if that doesnt work, try high. please dont use higher than high, it actually isnt good.


can you explain why high isnt good? llc takes control of how much the motherboard will let the voltage drop and flex under load. Maybe we have this backwards but mean the same thing. You want the most stable voltage under load correct? So the less the voltage jumps the better. Is an asus motherboards settings reversed vs asrock? On my motherboard level 5 has the least compensation while level 1 has the most which can cause voltage spikes.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Um... is there any harm when overclocking on manual mode 24/7 ( running 4.5ghz @ 1.25v ) as opposed to offset mode, though? ( as in, would the CPU life degrade faster on manual compared to offset? )
> 
> I ran Prime 95 blend for 12 hours w/o error on manual... but I'm not sure what + or - # to use when it comes to offset mode.


No harm at all if voltage within limit & CPU power saving is enabled. Do you have C-States, C3/C6, enabled? If you do, CPU cores actually not consume 1.25V all the time. When CPU cores enter these states, the voltage for that core will be decreased & in C6 state, voltage for that core reduced to almost zero. These feature help reduced power consumption when idle & when CPU lightly loaded (e.g. checking email, internet browsing, etc). These all happens while computer is turn on. Regarding degradation, as long as the voltage within the limit, you don't have to worry about degradation. I've use offset voltage & manual voltage with C-States enabled. In both situation, idle temp very much the same. More "scientific" approach is to compare power consumption when idle by connecting watt meters (for 12V) to the 8-pin 12V CPU power connector.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Min temp = idle temp

What I did is leave computer to idle for 10 - 15 minutes, then reset min/max temp to record current idle temp in min temp box/field.

Temp when CPU lightly loaded (checking emails, internet browsing) also pretty much the same too in both case but I don't have screenshots for them though.

4.5GHz, offset voltage +0.04: Vcore 1.064 - 1.368V, ambient 32C


5.0GHz, manual voltage: Vcore 1.488 - 1.560V, ambient 30C




Remember that I said no stress test programs are definitive? That's why I ran IBT & Prime95 to test stability. I have got Prime95 2 hours stable but crashed instantly when running IBT. I also have got IBT stable but Prime95 throw an error just after a couple of minutes. If you use CPU demanding application like programming, rendering, etc, these two stress test programs are really useful. If computer crash, it will effect productivity. In this situation, you'll find running Prime95 for 12/24 hours is not waste of time at all. Someone would say why not running at stock clock? Well faster CPU can get the job done faster. This is why overclocked CPU very useful for these CPU demanding applications. If you're only gaming, then running Prime95 for 1 or 2 hours should be enough.

Offset voltage means Vcore will be offset from stock voltage automatically. For example "+ 0.005", means the stock voltage will be added 0.005 & the final number is your Vcore. Since the stock voltage will go up & down according to frequency, when using offset voltage, Vcore will also dynamically change according to frequency changes. I think you can get an idea what minus ("-") voltage is for. It is advised not to use LLC when using offset voltage to prevent voltage overshoot.


----------



## pc-illiterate

intel designs vdroop into their processors. it isnt a flaw. you want stable voltage but fluctuations arent always bad.
my set-up for example. high llc and +.015 offset (to run ram @1866mhz)
windows power option set to high performance. cpu-z reads 1.344v at 4.5ghz idle.
apply p95 load, varies mainly between 1.336v and 1.344v. it will dip to 1.328v occasionally. this is 100% p95, ibt, everything i throw at it stable.
to run ram at 1600mhz i use high llc and +.005 offset. cpu-z reads 1.336v at idle and 1.320v-1.328v under load. this is also 100% stable.
any less voltage anywhere on either of these or a lower llc i crash. if i raise llc level i can use a lower offset. the problem there is it causes v-rise instead of vdroop. this heats up the vrm. this isnt good.

before you ask about my idle volts and offset, if you set windows power option to high performance, you get 100% cpu speed and voltage at all times. balanced lets speed step work as its intended.

yes, asus boards go from least llc to highest. normal/regular-med-high-ultra high-extreme(0%-25%-50%-75%-100%). as you can see by the percentages, after high(50%) isnt good for your board or processor really.
all from what i think i remember from what i read:
llc was added because hardcore overclockers were soldering caps and stuffs to their boards so they wouldnt lose voltage and crash from the vdroop. the overclockers that didnt do this, they didnt like jamming all that voltage into their cpus. mobo manufacturers implemented it to save the board modders the hassles. some dont like to use llc. they feel it isnt natural and its against intel spec.


----------



## H3r3tic

I have never heard of v-rise. LLC has never shown negative effects on a cpu or motherboard and its there to use. Was designed for overclockers like us. Especially on a quality motherboard like sabretooth. The less strict your LLC is the more vdroop you will get. The voltage may spike much higher then needed also which is unecessary but when idling or doing simple tasks youll get a bsod because the vcore is allowed to drop to low for the required task. Higher levels of LLC smooth out the vcore allowing a more consistent power delivery being why your system is stable Idk I dont want to argue. Right now as I sit my system is idle and 1.064 vcore 32*c max temp reported on my hyper 212+. Under basic gaming I avg a 1.35 vcore and MAX it will hit is 1.416. IBT sends 1.4v solid. I would believe its more dangerous to have a medium LLC then higher. Lower LLC gives you a wave of voltages. Pretty much try whats best for you.

And yes prime and ibt are very useful but.Ive ran prime 95 for 12 hours passed 30 times with ibt before then hopped in a game later that night and crashed. which raising vcore fixed. I guess its all just luck of the draw. Only time can tell you how stable you really are.


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> yes, asus boards go from least llc to highest. normal/regular-med-high-ultra high-extreme(0%-25%-50%-75%-100%). as you can see by the percentages, after high(50%) isnt good for your board or processor really.


Wait. Why is anything over 50% ( or high ) bad?


----------



## Professional

Ok, i can't go and read the entire 237x posts here to figure out what's going on, so i will start my own post here regardless of it has been asked or answered before.

I have H100i on i7-3930K, first i installed without connected all the cables needed to make it work so that led to rise the temp of CPU to 80.0C or more, but i fixed this problem and connected all needed cables and it is flawless now and my temp is around 27C as average [24-30C] on base or stock speed, so now my question, until what speed i can go up with this cooler according to that stock CPU temp?

Also, what else i should learn about this cooler? What modifications you did to this cooler so far to enhance or improve something? What about its lifespan or longevity?


----------



## H3r3tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Wait. Why is anything over 50% ( or high ) bad?


Well apparently Asus motherboards are reversed from mine. So the higher llc you have the more the voltage will spike n dip trying to compensate for load when used with offset. At least that's what I got from pc illiterates post. So start with medium llc.http://www.overclock.net/t/404757/asus-loadline-calibration check this site towards the bottom.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Um... is there any harm when overclocking on manual mode 24/7 ( running 4.5ghz @ 1.25v ) as opposed to offset mode, though? ( as in, would the CPU life degrade faster on manual compared to offset? )
> 
> I ran Prime 95 blend for 12 hours w/o error on manual... but I'm not sure what + or - # to use when it comes to offset mode.


A lot of technically good info here ... I returned your PM to try and keep it simple












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> I've never heard of CPU degrade before, and no there is no harm, the only thing is other parts may run hotter as well when overclocking, like VRMs, make sure everything running cool and you'll be set for 24/7.


CPU's can and do degrade, it's just physics, but how noticeable/recordable it is usually doesn't matter. AND in extreme/max OC'ing cases your mobo probably is going to fail before you notice problems with your CPU if you don't apply the same cooling standards like "custom loops/mobo cooling blocks" ... JME









With moderate/high overclocks who knows how long they can go? I still have a manually overclocked Opteron180 OC'd @ 2.8GHz (air-cooled) going strong for over 8 years now with the same DFI/Lanboy mobo and GSkill ram, I did have to replace an OCZ650 PSU though. It is a server (Xeon) quality chip but hey that was $$$ well spent I think









I see the Sandy Bridge chips (ideal IHS attachment) as one of those epic OC chips that people will be talking about for years to come much like the Opty's of old









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Professional*
> 
> Ok, i can't go and read the entire 237x posts here to figure out what's going on, so i will start my own post here regardless of it has been asked or answered before.
> 
> I have H100i on i7-3930K, first i installed without connected all the cables needed to make it work so that led to rise the temp of CPU to 80.0C or more, but i fixed this problem and connected all needed cables and it is flawless now and my temp is around 27C as average [24-30C] on base or stock speed, so now my question, until what speed i can go up with this cooler according to that stock CPU temp?
> 
> Also, what else i should learn about this cooler? What modifications you did to this cooler so far to enhance or improve something? What about its lifespan or longevity?


Yea it's always good to connect power to the pump







Looks like you'll have some headroom to OC but we need some base load temps and other info ... see *[HERE]* or my sig ...









It's all in the setup (case/fans/orientation) and how high you prefer your overclocks to be? ... etc.

Some guys will replace the stock fans for quieter operation, BUT many of us don't, we just put them on low for 24/7 operation and then crank them up for benching as their performance usually outshines the quieter fans.The H100 only came out a little over 2 years ago and there have been very few failures after intial breakin/installation. But there are plenty of H50/H70's going strong after 4-5years now? Different internals but Corsair is pretty good at upgrading their engineering as products evolve


----------



## ihatelolcats

im sure this has been covered but what metals are compatible with the h100? thinking of adding another radiator


----------



## Professional

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> A lot of technically good info here ... I returned your PM to try and keep it simple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU's can and do degrade, it's just physics, but how noticeable/recordable it is usually doesn't matter. AND in extreme/max OC'ing cases your mobo probably is going to fail before you notice problems with your CPU if you don't apply the same cooling standards like "custom loops/mobo cooling blocks" ... JME
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With moderate/high overclocks who knows how long they can go? I still have a manually overclocked Opteron180 OC'd @ 2.8GHz (air-cooled) going strong for over 8 years now with the same DFI/Lanboy mobo and GSkill ram, I did have to replace an OCZ650 PSU though. It is a server (Xeon) quality chip but hey that was $$$ well spent I think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see the Sandy Bridge chips (ideal IHS attachment) as one of those epic OC chips that people will be talking about for years to come much like the Opty's of old
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yea it's always good to connect power to the pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like you'll have some headroom to OC but we need some base load temps and other info ... see *[HERE]* or my sig ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all in the setup (case/fans/orientation) and how high you prefer your overclocks to be? ... etc. Some guys will replace the stock fans for quieter operation, BUT many of us don't, we just put them on low for 24/7 operation and then crank them up for benching as their performance usually outshines the quieter fans.The H100 only came out a little over 2 years ago and there have been very few failures after intial breakin/installation. But there are plenty of H50/H70's going strong after 4-5years now? Different internals but Corsair is pretty good at upgrading their engineering as products evolve


Not sure i understand most of it, sorry, but i will try to read it more and understand something.

On that rig i may go up to 4.5GHz maximum, but as long if i will give this rig for my kids then maybe i keep it at stock speed or max 4GHz.


----------



## H3r3tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Professional*
> 
> Not sure i understand most of it, sorry, but i will try to read it more and understand something.
> 
> On that rig i may go up to 4.5GHz maximum, but as long if i will give this rig for my kids then maybe i keep it at stock speed or max 4GHz.


Unless your running a crazy sli setup with 1440p or something 4ghz is plenty. Although 4.5 on any decent air cooler will not be an issue to get stable. It doesn't get tricky until 4.6 and up.


----------



## Professional

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H3r3tic*
> 
> Unless your running a crazy sli setup with 1440p or something 4ghz is plenty. Although 4.5 on any decent air cooler will not be an issue to get stable. It doesn't get tricky until 4.6 and up.


Ah i see, then i should be happy, well, later if my kids forcing me or if they can afford to buy multi monitors for themselves then it will be a different story, but i think they will never think to be like me because they are not so educated and smart and so addicted to PC and electronics like me, so they will be fine with their 32" TV, and i think they also don't know about OC at all and they don't care.


----------



## H3r3tic

That's funny my 7 and 4 year old pull up a chair and sit right next to me while I build and modify.


----------



## Professional

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H3r3tic*
> 
> That's funny my 7 and 4 year old pull up a chair and sit right next to me while I build and modify.


Good mine don't do that, because i know they will take my rigs sooner or later


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Professional*
> 
> Not sure i understand most of it, sorry, but i will try to read it more and understand something.
> On that rig i may go up to 4.5GHz maximum, but as long if i will give this rig for my kids then maybe i keep it at stock speed or max 4GHz.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Professional*
> 
> Ah i see, then i should be happy, ..................
Click to expand...

Not _should_ you "Be Happy" ... but *"ARE you Happy"?* ...

Sorry for the confusion, but the basics I was looking for was your setup/mounting configuration? H100i Top mounted? Exhaust or Intake configuration? With Push or Pull fan mounting? What are your ambient temps? etc ...
AND most importantly what *your highest "Load Temps" were with a stress program like Prime95?*

I think you are confusing "stock temps" with what we call "idle" temps or no stress on the CPU at the time the temperatures were recorded. Your CPU was stock (no overclocking) and your "idle" temps improved form 80+c to 27c when I connected power to the pump









Maybe you missed my *"Link"* to this post on how to provide details/screen shots for confirmation/troubleshooting AIO coolers ...
http://www.overclock.net/t/612436/official-corsair-hydro-series-club/22780#post_19933488
I'm always open to suggestions to make it better or easier to understand









A quick and dirty speculating/guessing answer is I "think"? your fine if your not going to overclock or "May"? only do a mild/modest OC of 4.0GHz ... but without more details I hope the picture will become clearer for you why we are guessing








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> im sure this has been covered but what metals are compatible with the h100? thinking of adding another radiator


Not so sure it has been officially confirmed, but mixing metals (components) in a cooling system should be avoided when it can be, but is unfairly blamed for many corrosion failures. Several modders here have had no troubles mixing copper (blocks/rads) with the original aluminum radiators so far. Your other concerns "may" be related to nickel plating (fittings/blocks) and/or silver kill coils? Even silver and nickel used together "with" a properly maintained system shouldn't cause any problems







*[HERE Link]* is a good read on that ...

Quote Jakusonfire:
_I've read a lot of different opinions on this sort of thing and the one thing that seems to be common across all of the obvious severe cases is long periods of time without changing the coolant. I can't help but think that regular changing would mitigate the most severe effects._

But if you still want the convenience of a sealed / no maintenance system I'd contact Corsair for confirmation.
Unfortunately I think they will say it's OK even if it is just a copper rad...
BUT you'll need to change the coolant periodically as maintenance


----------



## Professional

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Not _should_ you "Be Happy" ... but *"ARE you Happy"?* ...
> 
> Sorry for the confusion, but the basics I was looking for was your setup/mounting configuration? H100i Top mounted? Exhaust or Intake configuration? With Push or Pull fan mounting? What are your ambient temps? etc ...
> AND most importantly what *your highest "Load Temps" were with a stress program like Prime95?*
> 
> I think you are confusing "stock temps" with what we call "idle" temps or no stress on the CPU at the time the temperatures were recorded. Your CPU was stock (no overclocking) and your "idle" temps improved form 80+c to 27c when I connected power to the pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe you missed my *"Link"* to this post on how to provide details/screen shots for confirmation/troubleshooting AIO coolers ...
> http://www.overclock.net/t/612436/official-corsair-hydro-series-club/22780#post_19933488
> I'm always open to suggestions to make it better or easier to understand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick and dirty speculating/guessing answer is I "think"? your fine if your not going to overclock or "May"? only do a mild/modest OC of 4.0GHz ... but without more details I hope the picture will become clearer for you why we are guessing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so sure it has been officially confirmed, but mixing metals (components) in a cooling system should be avoided when it can be, but is unfairly blamed for many corrosion failures. Several modders here have had no troubles mixing copper (blocks/rads) with the original aluminum radiators so far. Your other concerns "may" be related to nickel plating (fittings/blocks) and/or silver kill coils? Even silver and nickel used together "with" a properly maintained system shouldn't cause any problems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *[HERE Link]* is a good read on that ...
> 
> Quote Jakusonfire:
> _I've read a lot of different opinions on this sort of thing and the one thing that seems to be common across all of the obvious severe cases is long periods of time without changing the coolant. I can't help but think that regular changing would mitigate the most severe effects._
> 
> But if you still want the convenience of a sealed / no maintenance system I'd contact Corsair for confirmation.
> Unfortunately I think they will say it's OK even if it is just a copper rad...
> BUT you'll need to change the coolant periodically as maintenance


Now this post making it even more confusing, i will take my time to read and understand at best i can.

I just said i want to replace my 212 EVO to one of those Corsair Hydro series, but i was thinking with cheap one but not H60, so either H80 or H100 or H110 if those will be all cheaper than H100i, i am happy with H100i on my main rig, i would like to buy it again, but i prefer to have something less for i5-3570K on that 3rd rig if that 212 EVO will not cut it for long run and for high OC say up to 4.5GHz.


----------



## H3r3tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Professional*
> 
> Now this post making it even more confusing, i will take my time to read and understand at best i can.
> 
> I just said i want to replace my 212 EVO to one of those Corsair Hydro series, but i was thinking with cheap one but not H60, so either H80 or H100 or H110 if those will be all cheaper than H100i, i am happy with H100i on my main rig, i would like to buy it again, but i prefer to have something less for i5-3570K on that 3rd rig if that 212 EVO will not cut it for long run and for high OC say up to 4.5GHz.


My friends in the same boat. He has a hyper 212 on his 3570k and we can only see 4.3 before temp is an issue. It also depends on your chip though. His is voltage hungry compared to some of these other over clocks I seen on the net. Probably wanna go 240mm radiator I thinking.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Professional*
> 
> Now this post making it even more confusing, i will take my time to read and understand at best i can.
> 
> I just said i want to replace my 212 EVO to one of those Corsair Hydro series, but i was thinking with cheap one but not H60, so either H80 or H100 or H110 if those will be all cheaper than H100i, i am happy with H100i on my main rig, i would like to buy it again, but i prefer to have something less for i5-3570K on that 3rd rig if that 212 EVO will not cut it for long run and for high OC say up to 4.5GHz.


Ahhh my apologies, I thought you were asking if the temperatures on your newly installed H100i were good or the same as other users in this forum ... and if so then how high did you think you could overclock your CPU?







Yikes ... I'm usually pretty good at figuring out what wisdom people seek ... sorry I blew it on this one









Anyway this refurbished H100 is a no-brainer @ $79 and is what I'd get to replace your 212Evo for future overclocking. ... See *[HERE]*

Additionally how do you know the 212Evo won't do the job for low to moderate overclocking. There are guys running 4.4-4.6GHz overclocks on Sandy bridge and Ivy Bridge alike with very acceptable "Load Temps" ... See *[HERE]*


----------



## Cores

I'm looking to buy some fans for my H100i but I'm not sure what to get. I need a fan that pushes a lot of air yet is reasonably quiet and looks good enough, so Noctua is out of the question. Can anyone assist me?


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fegelein*
> 
> I'm looking to buy some fans for my H100i but I'm not sure what to get. I need a fan that pushes a lot of air yet is reasonably quiet and looks good enough, so Noctua is out of the question. Can anyone assist me?


Noiseblocker eloops, but don't do push pull with them. I just ordered 6 for my build update:


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fegelein*
> 
> I'm looking to buy some fans for my H100i but I'm not sure what to get. I need a fan that pushes a lot of air yet is reasonably quiet and looks good enough, so Noctua is out of the question. Can anyone assist me?


Have you tried the balanced and/or low setting? The H100i stock fans are pretty darn good for noise/performance. Many of us have acceptable temps and noise levels on the "lower" settings for our 24/7 overclocks with the stock fans ... but additionally in reserve we have the higher settings that can be turned up for benching outperforming the quieter replacement fans









But if you must .... Noctua F12 and Gentle Typhoon AP-15 seem to be the most popular replacements ... *[HERE]* is a very reputable site with more info and vids you can actually listen to the types and levels of noise the most popular fans make









Quote Martin ...

_"King of "BEST NOISE LEVEL/AIR FLOW THROUGH A RADIATOR"
The Gentle Typhoons retain their crown on this criteria and really shine at very high speeds, but that differentiation does drop off as speed decrease."_

Not to many guys here have tried the Noiseblockers, but they look pretty good to. And you'll be able to compare the stock Corsair SP120's in round 11 *[HERE]* ...









Edit ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Noiseblocker eloops, but don't do push pull with them. I just ordered 6 for my build update:


I was writing while you were posting ... looking forward to your opinions and results on how they stack up against the stockers on your H100i









These fans look? pretty innovative as far as a fan can be for efficient/quiet air movement








Local thread/info *[HERE]* on the ELoops ...


----------



## GeneratorJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fegelein*
> 
> I'm looking to buy some fans for my H100i but I'm not sure what to get. I need a fan that pushes a lot of air yet is reasonably quiet and looks good enough, so Noctua is out of the question. Can anyone assist me?


The stock fans are a bit high on the noise level. Though its RPM and performance to push air through the radiator is good.

I would strongly suggest the Corsair SP120, they are quiet and pushes air through radiators really good .

When looking at radiator fan you got to look at the Static Pressure. How well it moves air through radiators. Air Flow does not matter on this area, so it will not matter as much if the CFM is really high, if it cant move air that well through the fins on the radiator.

I'm using Corsair SP120 and they are great, you cant even tell if they are running, its that quiet.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneratorJ*
> 
> The stock fans are a bit high on the noise level. Though its RPM and performance to push air through the radiator is good.
> 
> I would strongly suggest the Corsair SP120, they are quiet and pushes air through radiators really good .
> 
> When looking at radiator fan you got to look at the Static Pressure. How well it moves air through radiators. Air Flow does not matter on this area, so it will not matter as much if the CFM is really high, if it cant move air that well through the fins on the radiator.
> 
> I'm using Corsair SP120 and they are great, you cant even tell if they are running, its that quiet.


SP120s are not quiet at all. They're marketed well, but they're pretty loud:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/05/07/fan-testing-round-12/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Have you tried the balanced and/or low setting? The H100i stock fans are pretty darn good for noise/performance. Many of us have acceptable temps and noise levels on the "lower" settings for our 24/7 overclocks with the stock fans ... but additionally in reserve we have the higher settings that can be turned up for benching outperforming the quieter replacement fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But if you must .... Noctua F12 and Gentle Typhoon AP-15 seem to be the most popular replacements ... *[HERE]* is a very reputable site with more info and vids you can actually listen to the types and levels of noise the most popular fans make
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote Martin ...
> 
> _"King of "BEST NOISE LEVEL/AIR FLOW THROUGH A RADIATOR"
> The Gentle Typhoons retain their crown on this criteria and really shine at very high speeds, but that differentiation does drop off as speed decrease."_
> 
> Not to many guys here have tried the Noiseblockers, but they look pretty good to. And you'll be able to compare the stock Corsair SP120's in round 11 *[HERE]* ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit ...
> I was writing while you were posting ... looking forward to your opinions and results on how they stack up against the stockers on your H100i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These fans look? pretty innovative as far as a fan can be for efficient/quiet air movement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Local thread/info *[HERE]* on the ELoops ...


They are dead sexy, easily the nicest looking fans I've ever seen. As for performance I'll let you know, my Corsair 540 ships today, and my custom extensions should be here any day now, then I'll get started


----------



## Miss Roxy

Man... I really want to get Corsair 540 case... but I just got the 500R few months ago... so...


----------



## GeneratorJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> SP120s are not quiet at all. They're marketed well, but they're pretty loud:
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/05/07/fan-testing-round-12/


LoL, No need to link me some Fan Testing video. I'm using the Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition. Its a max speed and I cant even hear them.

Btw, the link was for a Performance Edition.

They didnt even feature the Quiet Edition. That makes it a bias review.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneratorJ*
> 
> LoL, No need to link me some Fan Testing video. I'm using the Corsair SP120s. Its a max speed and I cant even hear them.


Yes, let us all make our decisions based on your impression, instead of methodical testing







. I've used SP120s, quiet editions, sp120ls, cougars, noctuas, and a bunch of other fans. And the sp120s, including the quiet editions, are not quiet. That isn't to say they're bad fans, they push a great amount of air, just not as quietly as the competition by any means.


----------



## GeneratorJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Yes, let us all make our decisions based on your impression, instead of methodical testing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I've used SP120s, quiet editions, sp120ls, cougars, noctuas, and a bunch of other fans. And the sp120s, including the quiet editions, are not quiet. That isn't to say they're bad fans, they push a great amount of air, just not as quietly as the competition by any means.


He wanted some idea on Fans.

You can suggest a fan of your choice if you want.

I suggested something that I'm happy with, I said my experience on them.

Why dont you do the same?

The community is for this reason right?

If you read my post, I didnt told anyone that, you should be getting that fan for this reason or that better this was or that way.

I simply said my suggestion.

Weather someone will take it in for consideration or ignore it. I dont really care.

At the end of the day, it's their decision, not mine, nor is it anyone elses.

The reviews are their for comparison and for people to have a good overview of the products.

It's not a law, to buy the best in the market. It's what someone prefer the most.


----------



## 420Killah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fegelein*
> 
> I'm looking to buy some fans for my H100i but I'm not sure what to get. I need a fan that pushes a lot of air yet is reasonably quiet and looks good enough, so Noctua is out of the question. Can anyone assist me?


Like a few people said, the stock fans that come with the H100i are pretty good. I have a CM Storm Scout 2 with the H100i rad mounted on the outside of the case with one of the stock fans on top of it and its basically silent


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneratorJ*
> 
> He wanted some idea on Fans.
> 
> You can suggest a fan of your choice if you want.
> 
> I suggested something that I'm happy with, I said my experience on them.
> 
> Why dont you do the same?
> 
> The community is for this reason right?
> 
> If you read my post, I didnt told anyone that, you should be getting that fan for this reason or that better this was or that way.
> 
> I simply said my suggestion.
> 
> Weather someone will take it in for consideration or ignore it. I dont really care.
> 
> At the end of the day, it's their decision, not mine, nor is it anyone elses.
> 
> The reviews are their for comparison and for people to have a good overview of the products.
> 
> It's not a law, to buy the best in the market. It's what someone prefer the most.


No, what you said was:

LoL, No need to link me some Fan Testing video. I'm using the Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition. Its a max speed and I cant even hear them.

Suggesting what I said was wrong, so obviously I'm going to call you out on it. Regardless yes, pick what you want by all means, but if you want something quiet, the sp120 quiet edition or any other variant is not ideal by any stretch of the word.


----------



## Devildog83

I have also used the fans that came with the H100i and the SP 120 performance PWM fans that I have now and both are pretty quite until they run at full speed. The point is 99% of even gaming use would not require these fans to run at max. Only under 100% stress and that's only going to be for benching/stability testing. So what if it get's a bit loud then. Unless you are extremely anal about noise or run your computer at heavy load all day these are great. There is a lot of other great options too. If you do run at heavy load all day consider a full loop or deal with a bit of noise because no matter what you get there will be some noise at full speed.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneratorJ*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> SP120s are not quiet at all. They're marketed well, but they're pretty loud:
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/05/07/fan-testing-round-12/
> 
> 
> 
> LoL, No need to link me some Fan Testing video. I'm using the Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition. Its a max speed and I cant even hear them.
> 
> Btw, the link was for a Performance Edition.
> 
> They didnt even feature the Quiet Edition. That makes it a bias review.
Click to expand...

I'm using the SP120 quiets on mine and even at 100% I can't hear them running. I don't even know why they include a 7v adapter because there's no need to even use that. There is also a cost/performance factor that isn't always considered with buying fans. Some people are just not going to spend the money on the best fans, so they go with a lesser model that works for them.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> I'm using the SP120 quiets on mine and even at 100% I can't hear them running. I don't even know why they include a 7v adapter because there's no need to even use that. There is also a cost/performance factor that isn't always considered with buying fans. Some people are just not going to spend the money on the best fans, so they go with a lesser model that works for them.


If you want to talk cost performance, cougars are better. And again take a look anywhere, tator tot has a thread in the air cooling forums with an incredibly extensive fan review, as does cyclops. And they'll both tell you SP120s aren't quiet. If you haven't had better fans you may very well think they are quiet, you haven't tried better. Again, these are not bad fans, but they are definitely not quiet.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Yes, let us all make our decisions based on your impression, instead of methodical testing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I've used SP120s, quiet editions, sp120ls, cougars, noctuas, and a bunch of other fans. And the sp120s, including the quiet editions, are not quiet. That isn't to say they're bad fans, they push a great amount of air, just not as quietly as the competition by any means.


By the way the quiet editions are quiet, I have af 140 quiet and 2 sp 120 quiets and they are both quiet. I don't care what anyone says. The only ones that get loud are the performance and that's only at load. I have them and use them, no video would change my mind because it doesn't get anymore real world then actually hearing them for yourself.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Yes, let us all make our decisions based on your impression, instead of methodical testing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I've used SP120s, quiet editions, sp120ls, cougars, noctuas, and a bunch of other fans. And the sp120s, including the quiet editions, are not quiet. That isn't to say they're bad fans, they push a great amount of air, just not as quietly as the competition by any means.
> 
> 
> 
> By the way the quiet editions are quiet, I have af 140 quiet and 2 sp 120 quiets and they are both quiet. I don't care what anyone says. The only ones that get loud are the performance and that's only at load. I have them and use them, no video would change my mind because it doesn't get anymore real world then actually hearing them for yourself.
Click to expand...









I have the same setup and well said.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> I'm using the SP120 quiets on mine and even at 100% I can't hear them running. I don't even know why they include a 7v adapter because there's no need to even use that. There is also a cost/performance factor that isn't always considered with buying fans. Some people are just not going to spend the money on the best fans, so they go with a lesser model that works for them.
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to talk cost performance, cougars are better. And again take a look anywhere, tator tot has a thread in the air cooling forums with an incredibly extensive fan review, as does cyclops. And they'll both tell you SP120s aren't quiet. If you haven't had better fans you may very well think they are quiet, you haven't tried better. Again, these are not bad fans, but they are definitely not quiet.
Click to expand...

As a matter of fact, in the front of my 900D I have 3 Cougar CF-V12HPB fans that are just as quiet as my SP120s and move a ton of air. These are not on a rad though so I don't know what they offer in terms of static pressure unless I put a ST30 there.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> As a matter of fact, in the front of my 900D I have 3 Cougar CF-V12HPB fans that are just as quiet as my SP120s and move a ton of air. These are not on a rad though so I don't know what they offer in terms of static pressure unless I put a ST30 there.


Yes, there are some good cougars and noctuas plus a couple of others but to say that the quiet editions are not quiet is just wrong.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> As a matter of fact, in the front of my 900D I have 3 Cougar CF-V12HPB fans that are just as quiet as my SP120s and move a ton of air. These are not on a rad though so I don't know what they offer in terms of static pressure unless I put a ST30 there.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, there are some good cougars and noctuas plus a couple of others but to say that the quiet editions are not quiet is just wrong.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't pay the preimum for Noctuas especially with how those fans look. Would it have been that difficult to just make them black or is that far too common? At least Cougar fans have a black and orange color scheme which is what ti is. I'm using the black blade versions and since they're front fans so they're not as noticable and don't have a whine like the Corsair AF120L stock fans.


----------



## GeneratorJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> I wouldn't pay the preimum for Noctuas especially with how those fans look. Would it have been that difficult to just make them black or is that far too common? At least Cougar fans have a black and orange color scheme which is what ti is. I'm using the black blade versions and since they're front fans so they're not as noticable and don't have a whine like the Corsair AF120L stock fans.


Noctua actually released new Fans at the Computex 2013

http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=presse_archiv&step=2&news_id=90&lng=en



Black and Brown









I must say, its about time lol


----------



## pc-illiterate

buy. yate. loons. best. price/performance. ever.
i will push loons until i die or someone makes a fan as cheap that works better. the only 2 other fans i would even consider are gt ap-14/15s or swiftech helix(which are only a few dollars more).


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> buy. yate. loons. best. price/performance. ever.
> i will push loons until i die or someone makes a fan as cheap that works better. the only 2 other fans i would even consider are gt ap-14/15s or swiftech helix(which are only a few dollars more).


Perhaps it's just me but I try to find fans that are anywhere from 1100-1500 RPM and stay <21 dBa mark as far as noise level is concerned. I'd also say about $15 is the max I would want ot pay for a 120mm fan too. Those GT14s wouldn't be bad for the price as I have heard good things about them.

Favorite cheap/awesome fan I ever bought for $4 were these ULTRA (brand) silent that were 1500 RPM, 53 CFM, 24 dBA I bought every one they had in stock at TigerDirect.


----------



## CannedBullets

Yep, just bought a pair of Noctua NF-F12s along with my GTX 770.


----------



## Professional

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Ahhh my apologies, I thought you were asking if the temperatures on your newly installed H100i were good or the same as other users in this forum ... and if so then how high did you think you could overclock your CPU?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yikes ... I'm usually pretty good at figuring out what wisdom people seek ... sorry I blew it on this one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway this refurbished H100 is a no-brainer @ $79 and is what I'd get to replace your 212Evo for future overclocking. ... See *[HERE]*
> 
> Additionally how do you know the 212Evo won't do the job for low to moderate overclocking. There are guys running 4.4-4.6GHz overclocks on Sandy bridge and Ivy Bridge alike with very acceptable "Load Temps" ... See *[HERE]*


I am not in rush, i said when i see some issues with 212 EVO on my i5 later then i will think of replacement, for now i will keep using CM 212EVO, in fact i was thinking about CM Seidon cooler, i found it cheaper but not sure if it function same as those Corsair Hydro coolers.


----------



## TomcatV

*Ladies and Gentlemen ...*

*Welcome to OCN's Corsair Hydro Forum's Annual Radiator Fan ...*

*







FLAME WAR







*

Seems about once a year we get real emotional about our fans and their performance








I love it







... and while "Load Temps" generally don't lie ... Noise and sound sensitivity have to be one of the most "Subjective" and inconsistently measurable parameters we face ... so each to his own and buyer beware because no two ears are alike









And in this years event I'm excited about ...

1) Noiseblocker eLoop fans, they look very promising and could rise to a viable challenger to the GT-AP15's or Noctua F12's or the cost effective/best buy Yate Loons promoted by Ceadderman in the past and now PC-illiterate !
But then again I got excited about the Cougar Vortex way back when and look at all the problems they had upon initial release, heck they were on Newegg's shell shocker deal every other week for awhile









2) And for G'sakes it's about time Noctua offers something other than that early 1990's IBM Beige Color ...








Wonder if they'll charge another $5 for racing black on their already very pricey, but still my favorite aftermarket fans. Cause no one IMO would by the Beige/Brown color if they had a choice ... Or do we expect a firesale on the comparable beige models ... hard to pass up those ugly fans if their cost is down around $15









EDIT: After reading the article *[HERE]* those look to be very pricey "Industrial" quality fans running at 2000rpm, couldn't tell if they have a PWM option or not and if they will be officially part of the ANC (active noise cancellation) line or not ... time will tell I guess









And in advance I want to say thank you to everyone who participated, though it hasn't gotten as out of hand, or quite as exciting as previous events, there is still plenty of time to go









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Professional*
> 
> I am not in rush, i said when i see some issues with 212 EVO on my i5 later then i will think of replacement, for now i will keep using CM 212EVO, in fact i was thinking about CM Seidon cooler, i found it cheaper but not sure if it function same as those Corsair Hydro coolers.


Well the H100 just priced dropped again to $62.99 *[HERE]* but only has a 30 day warranty








The CM Seidon would perform almost as good, within 3c-4c under load, 2 year warranty, but I don't know if Coolermasters Hydro Customer Service could come close to Corsairs ... Corsair is the undeniable leader in that department


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> *Ladies and Gentlemen ...*
> 
> *Welcome to OCN's Corsair Hydro Forum's Annual Radiator Fan ...*
> 
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FLAME WAR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> Seems about once a year we get real emotional about our fans and their performance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and while "Load Temps" generally don't lie ... Noise and sound sensitivity have to be one of the most "Subjective" and inconsistently measurable parameters we face ... so each to his own and buyer beware because no two ears are alike
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in this years event I'm excited about ...
> 
> 1) Noiseblocker eLoop fans, they look very promising and could rise to a viable challenger to the GT-AP15's or Noctua F12's or the cost effective/best buy Yate Loons promoted by Ceadderman in the past and now PC-illiterate !
> But then again I got excited about the Cougar Vortex way back when and look at all the problems they had upon initial release, heck they were on Newegg's shell shocker deal every other week for awhile
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) And for G'sakes it's about time Noctua offers something other than that early 1990's IBM Beige Color ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonder if they'll charge another $5 for racing black on their already very pricey, but still my favorite aftermarket fans. Cause no one IMO would by the Beige/Brown color if they had a choice ... Or do we expect a firesale on the comparable beige models ... hard to pass up those ugly fans if their cost is down around $15
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: After reading the article *[HERE]* those look to be very pricey "Industrial" quality fans running at 2000rpm, couldn't tell if they have a PWM option or not and if they will be officially part of the ANC (active noise cancellation) line or not ... time will tell I guess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in advance I want to say thank you to everyone who participated, though it hasn't gotten as out of hand, or quite as exciting as previous events, there is still plenty of time to go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well the H100 just priced dropped again to $62.99 *[HERE]* but only has a 30 day warranty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The CM Seidon would perform almost as good, within 3c-4c under load, 2 year warranty, but I don't know if Coolermasters Hydro Customer Service could come close to Corsairs ... Corsair is the undeniable leader in that department


I think you're a bit mistaken. The new white and black noctua fans are their new budget bulk packaging (A series), and from what i've read will cost 5-15% less SUPPOSEDLY. The ones you are talking about with the markup are the industrial ones with black and brown/shades of gray from what i understand.

As for the eloops, I have 6 right beside me waiting for my 540d, i'll let you know how they are when the case comes in.


----------



## philnguyen712

I was wondering if I can ask this technical question here.

Can anyone tell me how to get the push-button control on the Corsair H80 to work properly with a ASUS Sabertooth Z77?
Like where to plug in the wires and such?


----------



## H3r3tic

I was actually reading quite a bit. Nzxts kraken x40 and x60 seem to be pretty good along with the seidon trailing a little behind. It seems the kraken can match corsairs higher end. According to this and most other reviews I came across results seemed pretty consistent http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/cooler_master_seidon_240m_review,12.html

Although corsairs warranty and support doesn't seem to be matched.


----------



## GeneratorJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philnguyen712*
> 
> I was wondering if I can ask this technical question here.
> 
> Can anyone tell me how to get the push-button control on the Corsair H80 to work properly with a ASUS Sabertooth Z77?
> Like where to plug in the wires and such?


I dont have a H80, though I had a look at the Quick Start Guide.

http://www.corsair.com/en/media/cms/manual/forWeb_8.5inx11in_H80.pdf

Have a look at the Quick Start Guide, at Step 6, is showing to connect 1/2 x 4pin fans. Step 8, shows you need to connect the Corsair Link cable in.

Looks like its just those 2 cables that you need to connect.

I have a H80i so I cant really assure that.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> I think you're a bit mistaken. The new white and black noctua fans are their new budget bulk packaging (A series), and from what i've read will cost 5-15% less SUPPOSEDLY. The ones you are talking about with the markup are the industrial ones with black and brown/shades of gray from what i understand.
> 
> As for the eloops, I have 6 right beside me waiting for my 540d, i'll let you know how they are when the case comes in.


Yea I'm confused and possibly jumped the gun thinking the F-12 was going to get a cosmetic makeover







...
Additionally *[THESE]* A-Series fans written in a review article just 4 weeks old still look like the same old color scheme








Do you have a link and/or specs on these black & white Noctua fans? ...


----------



## DarkangelZ

Just got in my 2nd pair of SP-120's and swapping out the intake h100 fans. Currently already have SP120's for the exhaust side of radiator. (H100)

Post pics after install


----------



## CannedBullets

So for the H80i, would it be easier to mount the waterblock onto the CPU before mounting the radiator? Because I'm on an AMD system so the mounting for the waterblock on AMD CPUs can be weird because you don't really have any reference points unlike the mounting for Intel systems.


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So for the H80i, would it be easier to mount the waterblock onto the CPU before mounting the radiator? Because I'm on an AMD system so the mounting for the waterblock on AMD CPUs can be weird because you don't really have any reference points unlike the mounting for Intel systems.


I think that depends more on your case, if your case gives you access to the back of the motherboard then it doesn't really matter how you do it, it's easy either way, if not and you have to take the mobo out to mount it then yeah, mount the block first.


----------



## Orc Warlord

Is my h100 set up bad?

I have a haf x right now and the h100 is mounted at the top with 4x cougar vortex fans. they are pulling air IN from the top and into the case.

I have 2x140mm front intakes, 230mm intake, 140mm rear intake, and 200mm side exhaust (I have GPU that dumps hot air into the case)


----------



## El-Fuego

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Orc Warlord*
> 
> Is my h100 set up bad?
> 
> I have a haf x right now and the h100 is mounted at the top with 4x cougar vortex fans. they are pulling air IN from the top and into the case.
> 
> I have 2x140mm front intakes, 230mm intake, 140mm rear intake, and 200mm side exhaust (I have GPU that dumps hot air into the case)


I'd make that back 140mm as exhaust too, you are dumping heat inside the case from 2 sources, you'll need better exhaust,
I think that will give you 1-2 degrees lower temps.


----------



## Orc Warlord

Thanks.

I'll do that when I have time haha


----------



## GeneratorJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Orc Warlord*
> 
> Is my h100 set up bad?
> 
> I have a haf x right now and the h100 is mounted at the top with 4x cougar vortex fans. they are pulling air IN from the top and into the case.
> 
> I have 2x140mm front intakes, 230mm intake, 140mm rear intake, and 200mm side exhaust (I have GPU that dumps hot air into the case)


General rule for Case fans is basically, Front and Bottom as intake and Top and Back as exhaust.

Its not a solid rule but is highly recommended.

Basically, you wouldn't want hot air from your rad to be going in to the case.

So I recommend your Top to be Exhaust - going out of the case.

Also, you have to remember, hot air goes up. With this in mind, your GPU and any hardware on your comp produces heat that goes up on the case. This is why the Top fans are normally exhaust to take the hot air out straight away. The Rear, being at the top of the case too, helps on this, that is why its also recommended to have them as exhaust.

Side Fans are generally intake, its to cool your GPU. Remember heat goes up, not side ways or down. So it will not do much difference on the temp of the case if you pull air out from the side.

See below diagram from CM



Also, make sure there the air flow is not being block or slowed in one way or another.

Things that may block/slow them is a unused HDD cage, or cables inside the case.

As long as you can be sure that the air can travel from Intake to Exhaust with no problems, it should keep your whole Case, Mobo, GPU and all the hardware on your comp nice and cool.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneratorJ*
> 
> General rule for Case fans is basically, Front and Bottom as intake and Top and Back as exhaust.
> 
> Its not a solid rule but is highly recommended.
> 
> Basically, you wouldn't want hot air from your rad to be going in to the case.
> 
> So I recommend your Top to be Exhaust - going out of the case.
> 
> Also, you have to remember, hot air goes up. With this in mind, your GPU and any hardware on your comp produces heat that goes up on the case. This is why the Top fans are normally exhaust to take the hot air out straight away. The Rear, being at the top of the case too, helps on this, that is why its also recommended to have them as exhaust.
> 
> Side Fans are generally intake, its to cool your GPU. Remember heat goes up, not side ways or down. So it will not do much difference on the temp of the case if you pull air out from the side.
> 
> See below diagram from CM
> 
> 
> 
> Also, make sure there the air flow is not being block or slowed in one way or another.
> 
> Things that may block/slow them is a unused HDD cage, or cables inside the case.
> 
> As long as you can be sure that the air can travel from Intake to Exhaust with no problems, it should keep your whole Case, Mobo, GPU and all the hardware on your comp nice and cool.


Yeah, what he said.


----------



## pc-illiterate

actually, fans move hot air where the fans blow the air. if you have intakes at the top and rear and exhausts at the front and side, the fans will push the hot air out the sides and front. heat rises if there is no air flow. air flow and pressure wins over heat rises every time.
BUT, you have to worry about the intake fans sucking the hot air back in. so where is the exhaust being pushed to? in the path of the intake fans? that is what you want to avoid.


----------



## Mergatroid

Weather you use the top radiator as intake or exhaust really doesn't matter. I have tested this myself using an H70 and a 600T case, and I literally got a ~1c+ difference in CPU temps after running three hours.

If you use intake, you may slightly increase the temperature inside your case (in my particular tests I did not get any temp difference on my chipset or my video cards).

However, one thing is for sure, if you use your radiator as intake you will be drawing more dust through the rad, requiring cleanings more often (you can see a good example of a non-filtered intake rad getting plugged up in this thread here: http://www.overclock.net/t/612436/official-corsair-hydro-series-club/6230#post_8894561) but that is an extreme example.

Again, in my particular case, my Corsair 600T has dust filters on the front, so using my top mounted H100 as exhaust allows me to go months without cleaning it, and even then there's hardly any dust at all in the rad.

Corsair George actually mentions that you should consider your video card cooler type when you decide on your airflow. If you have a card that exhausts all its air out the back of the case (blower type), then using your top-mounted H100 as exhaust is fine. You may want to think about it a little harder if your video card is the radial type that blows hot exhaust inside the case. You may not want to draw that hot gpu air through your rad.

Here is a link:

http://www.overclock.net/t/831636/official-corsair-graphite-club/2010#post_13976813

Generally speaking, most people (including myself) use a front bottom to rear top airflow, but there's no law saying you have to. George even suggests that a top to bottom front airflow can improve temps if you're using a radial style cooler on your video card.

Lastly, don't worry about anyone telling you that you're "fighting the natural tendency of hot air to rise" if you decide on an unusual airflow design. The force making warm air rise is so weak compared to the pressure of case fans that it is easily overcome.

http://www.overclock.net/t/572373/official-corsair-obsidian-900d-800d-700d-650d-550d-club/2510#post_12323113


----------



## GeneratorJ

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Weather you use the top radiator as intake or exhaust really doesn't matter. I have tested this myself using an H70 and a 600T case, and I literally got a ~1c+ difference in CPU temps after running three hours.
> 
> If you use intake, you may slightly increase the temperature inside your case (in my particular tests I did not get any temp difference on my chipset or my video cards).
> 
> However, one thing is for sure, if you use your radiator as intake you will be drawing more dust through the rad, requiring cleanings more often (you can see a good example of a non-filtered intake rad getting plugged up in this thread here: http://www.overclock.net/t/612436/official-corsair-hydro-series-club/6230#post_8894561) but that is an extreme example.
> 
> Again, in my particular case, my Corsair 600T has dust filters on the front, so using my top mounted H100 as exhaust allows me to go months without cleaning it, and even then there's hardly any dust at all in the rad.
> 
> Corsair George actually mentions that you should consider your video card cooler type when you decide on your airflow. If you have a card that exhausts all its air out the back of the case (blower type), then using your top-mounted H100 as exhaust is fine. You may want to think about it a little harder if your video card is the radial type that blows hot exhaust inside the case. You may not want to draw that hot gpu air through your rad.
> 
> Here is a link:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/831636/official-corsair-graphite-club/2010#post_13976813
> 
> Generally speaking, most people (including myself) use a front bottom to rear top airflow, but there's no law saying you have to. George even suggests that a top to bottom front airflow can improve temps if you're using a radial style cooler on your video card.
> 
> Lastly, don't worry about anyone telling you that you're "fighting the natural tendency of hot air to rise" if you decide on an unusual airflow design. The force making warm air rise is so weak compared to the pressure of case fans that it is easily overcome.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/572373/official-corsair-obsidian-900d-800d-700d-650d-550d-club/2510#post_12323113






I guess its true, the residual heat being produced is not that much, compared to the air flow pressure.

I wouldn't mind trying that myself.

+1 Rep for you sir for linking those.

I got to be honest, when I was just reading your post, I wasn't convince lol. But after reading that and thinking about it. It's quite reasonable


----------



## BangBangPlay

I agree with Generator. I have my Corsair H100i setup as exhaust and have the rest of my fans as intake. This seems to offer the best overall case temps. Changing it didn't change CPU temps much, but it did make other motherboard components run hotter according to the Thermal Radar software of my Asus Gryphon motherboard. It has several sensors around the board that monitor surface temps, and I use some of them to control my fans (mainly CPU, RAM, and PCIe sensors). Also make sure your rear fan (or whichever is closest) doesn't rob air from your H100. This is why I actually use my rear fan as an intake, to supply the rad with cool air from outside the case as well. The air exiting the system from the top isn't that warm, even at heavy load.



Any of you using the stock fans with your H100i, or similar Corsair cooler? I would strongly recommend changing them to aftermarket fans, preferably PWM (for compatibility). A few weeks ago one of the SP120 high performance PWM fans that I use on the H100i started to make a ticking noise. The noise would rise and fall with the changing RPMS and was very annoying and distracting. It wasn't the firmware (as others suggested in another thread) because I hook my fans directly to the MB headers and control them with Fan Expert/Thermal Radar. It only effected one fan but I had to RMA both because I had purchased them as a set.

Well I mounted the stock fans temporarily and I was amazed at the difference in sound. Although the stock fans look exactly like the SP120s (without the colorful ring) they are certainly different on the inside. I had been lead to believe that they would be nearly the same, and some people even claimed that they may be better than most aftermarket models. The stock fans make a much higher pitched noise than the SP120s and they are audible at much lower rpms. At idle I can't hear the 120s (900rpms), but the stock fans are clearly audible at the same curve. During CPU stress testing they sound like a jet engine, and were almost worse than the ticking noise the broken SP120 was making. The SP120s aren't perfect and they become audible as the load increases, but the sound is much lower pitched. As far as cooling is concerned they are nearly the same, but the stock fans need slightly higher rpms (or a more aggressive fan curve). So not only are they nosier, but they need to be set slightly higher to achieve the same cooling efficiency. Mounting the stock fans really made me appreciate and miss the SP120s. The replacements came in yesterday and my computer is back to being relatively quiet and cool.

I only brought this up because I saw some people post comments (on PC part picker) that the stock fans are basically the same as the Corsair SP series, and that is just false. I also know that some people have claimed that aftermarket fans won't work with some Corsair closed loop water coolers, but you can always hook the fans into your MB headers, or a fan controller and bypass the Corsair link. I know most of you here are most likely not using the stock fans and I am preaching to the choir. To those of you that haven't upgraded I recommend that you do...


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El-Fuego*
> 
> I think that depends more on your case, if your case gives you access to the back of the motherboard then it doesn't really matter how you do it, it's easy either way, if not and you have to take the mobo out to mount it then yeah, mount the block first.


Well I don't need to change backplates for the H80i on AMD systems. So would it be easier to mount the waterblock onto the CPU and get it screwed in before I screw the radiator in? I'm thinking it might be easier because the waterblock should be easier to handle when the radiator isn't screwed in.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> The air exiting the system from the top isn't that warm, even at heavy load.


really? you havent overclocked? i have always been able to use my puters as small heaters. i warm up the pc room enough to close the heater vents in the winter and need better a/c in the summer.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> really? you havent overclocked? i have always been able to use my puters as small heaters. i warm up the pc room enough to close the heater vents in the winter and need better a/c in the summer.


Yeah, I have my 4670K running at 4.6 Ghz @ 1.215V (Linpack stable) right now. Actually I really lucked out with this chip, it runs at a really low voltage for Haswell. Sure after gaming for a few hours the top is warm, but not necessarily hot. I have been getting really good temps with this system, at gaming load (not stress testing) the CPU only gets into the 50-55°C range. Even my GTX 770 runs pretty cool (60-70°C) compared to the reference cards. But I think having my rear fan set as an intake helps to keep the air being fed to the H100i pretty cool, although I don't think it necessarily effects the CPU temps directly.


----------



## GeneratorJ

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> I agree with Generator. I have my Corsair H100i setup as exhaust and have the rest of my fans as intake. This seems to offer the best overall case temps. Changing it didn't change CPU temps much, but it did make other motherboard components run hotter according to the Thermal Radar software of my Asus Gryphon motherboard. It has several sensors around the board that monitor surface temps, and I use some of them to control my fans (mainly CPU, RAM, and PCIe sensors). Also make sure your rear fan (or whichever is closest) doesn't rob air from your H100. This is why I actually use my rear fan as an intake, to supply the rad with cool air from outside the case as well. The air exiting the system from the top isn't that warm, even at heavy load.
> 
> 
> 
> Any of you using the stock fans with your H100i, or similar Corsair cooler? I would strongly recommend changing them to aftermarket fans, preferably PWM (for compatibility). A few weeks ago one of the SP120 high performance PWM fans that I use on the H100i started to make a ticking noise. The noise would rise and fall with the changing RPMS and was very annoying and distracting. It wasn't the firmware (as others suggested in another thread) because I hook my fans directly to the MB headers and control them with Fan Expert/Thermal Radar. It only effected one fan but I had to RMA both because I had purchased them as a set.
> 
> Well I mounted the stock fans temporarily and I was amazed at the difference in sound. Although the stock fans look exactly like the SP120s (without the colorful ring) they are certainly different on the inside. I had been lead to believe that they would be nearly the same, and some people even claimed that they may be better than most aftermarket models. The stock fans make a much higher pitched noise than the SP120s and they are audible at much lower rpms. At idle I can't hear the 120s (900rpms), but the stock fans are clearly audible at the same curve. During CPU stress testing they sound like a jet engine, and were almost worse than the ticking noise the broken SP120 was making. The SP120s aren't perfect and they become audible as the load increases, but the sound is much lower pitched. As far as cooling is concerned they are nearly the same, but the stock fans need slightly higher rpms (or a more aggressive fan curve). So not only are they nosier, but they need to be set slightly higher to achieve the same cooling efficiency. Mounting the stock fans really made me appreciate and miss the SP120s. The replacements came in yesterday and my computer is back to being relatively quiet and cool.
> 
> I only brought this up because I saw some people post comments (on PC part picker) that the stock fans are basically the same as the Corsair SP series, and that is just false. I also know that some people have claimed that aftermarket fans won't work with some Corsair closed loop water coolers, but you can always hook the fans into your MB headers, or a fan controller and bypass the Corsair link. I know most of you here are most likely not using the stock fans and I am preaching to the choir. To those of you that haven't upgraded I recommend that you do...






Just a note on this too

Here's a bit more of comparison between the Stock and the SP120 (Quiet and Performance)

Stock
Sound Level 37.68 dBA
Speed 2700 RPM

SP120 PWM High Performance Edition
Sound Level 35 dBA
Speed 2350 RPM

SP120 PWM Quiet Edition
Sound Level 23 dBA
Speed 1450 RPM

It's not much difference between the Stock and Performance but its audibly different.

The stock are really loud! They do sound like a Jet engine lol

Speed wise though, the Stock have the highest max Speed of all 3.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneratorJ*
> 
> 
> Just a note on this too
> 
> Here's a bit more of comparison between the Stock and the SP120 (Quiet and Performance)
> 
> Stock
> Sound Level 37.68 dBA
> Speed 2700 RPM
> 
> SP120 PWM High Performance Edition
> Sound Level 35 dBA
> Speed 2350 RPM
> 
> SP120 PWM Quiet Edition
> Sound Level 23 dBA
> Speed 1450 RPM
> 
> It's not much difference between the Stock and Performance but its audibly different.
> 
> The stock are really loud! They do sound like a Jet engine lol
> 
> Speed wise though, the Stock have the highest max Speed of all 3.


Where did you get these numbers from out of curiousity?


----------



## Orc Warlord

The reason my h100 is top intake is because I am using cougar vortex fans.

if I turn it into exhaust the fans will make the rattle sound. the fans are recommended as intake fans and should be placed either horizontally or vertical


----------



## DarkangelZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So for the H80i, would it be easier to mount the waterblock onto the CPU before mounting the radiator? Because I'm on an AMD system so the mounting for the waterblock on AMD CPUs can be weird because you don't really have any reference points unlike the mounting for Intel systems.


As El-Fuego said, it really depends on the case more than anything. Also the position of the case can effect your mobility when installing as well. IE- Case standing upright vs laying down on its side. Either way I doubt you should have trouble as long as the case accommodates it well.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneratorJ*
> 
> 
> Just a note on this too
> 
> Here's a bit more of comparison between the Stock and the SP120 (Quiet and Performance)
> 
> Stock
> Sound Level 37.68 dBA
> Speed 2700 RPM
> 
> SP120 PWM High Performance Edition
> Sound Level 35 dBA
> Speed 2350 RPM
> 
> SP120 PWM Quiet Edition
> Sound Level 23 dBA
> Speed 1450 RPM
> 
> It's not much difference between the Stock and Performance but its audibly different.
> 
> The stock are really loud! They do sound like a Jet engine lol
> 
> Speed wise though, the Stock have the highest max Speed of all 3.


Exactly right. I have the SP 120 Performance PWM's on mine too and they are noticeably quieter. Sorry to here about the bad one though. I have had no issues yet.


----------



## Devildog83

Here is what mine looks like now. I am having trouble with the LED's like a lot of folks. Does anyone think Corsair would RMA this with a red paint job?


----------



## DarkangelZ

Pretty clean Devildog!


----------



## DarkangelZ

So last night I swapped out the stock H100 fan's; which where my intake fans atm, for the SP120 HP verisons; which were just added last week as my exhaust fans. So now I'm running SP 120 HP's for intake and exhaust on my H100. Here are some pics from last night.







Those dust bunnies were about about 2years of use. Looks like need to clean more often >.>


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneratorJ*
> 
> 
> Just a note on this too
> 
> Here's a bit more of comparison between the Stock and the SP120 (Quiet and Performance)
> 
> Stock
> Sound Level 37.68 dBA
> Speed 2700 RPM
> 
> SP120 PWM High Performance Edition
> Sound Level 35 dBA
> Speed 2350 RPM
> 
> SP120 PWM Quiet Edition
> Sound Level 23 dBA
> Speed 1450 RPM
> 
> It's not much difference between the Stock and Performance but its audibly different.
> 
> The stock are really loud! They do sound like a Jet engine lol
> 
> Speed wise though, the Stock have the highest max Speed of all 3.


Thanks for posting the specs. These numbers can be a bit deceiving to those who haven't used any of the three fans. Although the max decibles for the stock and the high performance SP120s is nearly the same it is likely at the fan's max RPM. So the stock fan will produce 38 dBA at 2700 RPMs, and the SP120 will produce 35 dBA at 2350 RPM. Also, as I had stated earlier, the noise emitted by each fan is distinctly different. The stock fan produces a high pitched noise while the SP120s have a lower hum at higher RPMs. The other important fact to consider is that the SP120s (which are basically controllable Quiet Editions) are nearly silent until 1300-1400 RPMs, whereas the stock fans are audible at around 900. I know this because I use 900 RPMs as my idle fan curve setting and I could always hear the stock fans running.

Also despite the fact the stock fans do have the highest max operating speed they don't necessarily cool better than the high performance editions. In my experience the stock fans needed slightly higher rpms to cool as efficient as the the SP120's, so they will always be noisier (and more annoying IMO) to achieve the same cooling.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Thanks for posting the specs. These numbers can be a bit deceiving to those who haven't used any of the three fans. Although the max decibles for the stock and the high performance SP120s is nearly the same it is likely at the fan's max RPM. So the stock fan will produce 38 dBA at 2700 RPMs, and the SP120 will produce 35 dBA at 2350 RPM. Also, as I had stated earlier, the noise emitted by each fan is distinctly different. The stock fan produces a high pitched noise while the SP120s have a lower hum at higher RPMs. The other important fact to consider is that the SP120s (which are basically controllable Quiet Editions) are nearly silent until 1300-1400 RPMs, whereas the stock fans are audible at around 900. I know this because I use 900 RPMs as my idle fan curve setting and I could always hear the stock fans running.
> 
> Also despite the fact the stock fans do have the highest max operating speed they don't necessarily cool better than the high performance editions. In my experience the stock fans needed slightly higher rpms to cool as efficient as the the SP120's, so they will always be noisier (and more annoying IMO) to achieve the same cooling.


Again, I'd like to know where those numbers came from


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Again, I'd like to know where those numbers came from


My conclusions came from my experience with the stock and SP120 high performance editions. If anything 38 dBA for the stock is generous, but the specs on the other two fans came from Corsair's site. Here are the specs for the stock SP120L (or so it is labeled) replacement fans.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Weather you use the top radiator as intake or exhaust really doesn't matter. I have tested this myself using an H70 and a 600T case, and I literally got a ~1c+ difference in CPU temps after running three hours.
> 
> If you use intake, you may slightly increase the temperature inside your case (in my particular tests I did not get any temp difference on my chipset or my video cards).
> 
> However, one thing is for sure, if you use your radiator as intake you will be drawing more dust through the rad, requiring cleanings more often (you can see a good example of a non-filtered intake rad getting plugged up in this thread here: http://www.overclock.net/t/612436/official-corsair-hydro-series-club/6230#post_8894561) but that is an extreme example.
> 
> Again, in my particular case, my Corsair 600T has dust filters on the front, so using my top mounted H100 as exhaust allows me to go months without cleaning it, and even then there's hardly any dust at all in the rad.
> 
> Corsair George actually mentions that you should consider your video card cooler type when you decide on your airflow. If you have a card that exhausts all its air out the back of the case (blower type), then using your top-mounted H100 as exhaust is fine. You may want to think about it a little harder if your video card is the radial type that blows hot exhaust inside the case. You may not want to draw that hot gpu air through your rad.
> 
> Here is a link:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/831636/official-corsair-graphite-club/2010#post_13976813
> 
> Generally speaking, most people (including myself) use a front bottom to rear top airflow, but there's no law saying you have to. George even suggests that a top to bottom front airflow can improve temps if you're using a radial style cooler on your video card.
> 
> Lastly, don't worry about anyone telling you that you're "fighting the natural tendency of hot air to rise" if you decide on an unusual airflow design. The force making warm air rise is so weak compared to the pressure of case fans that it is easily overcome.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/572373/official-corsair-obsidian-900d-800d-700d-650d-550d-club/2510#post_12323113"]


Couldn't have said it better ... but you already knew that








And that last link is the one that also changed my "Physics" philosophy of "Hot Air" (pun) and case ventilation almost 2 years ago ... +R and tagged for future referrals









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneratorJ*
> 
> I guess its true, the residual heat being produced is not that much, compared to the air flow pressure.
> I got to be honest, when I was just reading your post, I wasn't convince lol. But after reading that and thinking about it. It's quite reasonable


I know how you feel, same thing a couple years back for me ... "Science"









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I agree with Generator. I have my Corsair H100i setup as exhaust and have the rest of my fans as intake. This seems to offer the best overall case temps. Changing it didn't change CPU temps much, but it did make other motherboard components run hotter according to the Thermal Radar software of my Asus Gryphon motherboard. It has several sensors around the board that monitor surface temps, and I use some of them to control my fans (mainly CPU, RAM, and PCIe sensors). Also make sure your rear fan (or whichever is closest) doesn't rob air from your H100. This is why I actually use my rear fan as an intake, to supply the rad with cool air from outside the case as well. The air exiting the system from the top isn't that warm, even at heavy load.
> 
> 
> 
> Any of you using the stock fans with your H100i, or similar Corsair cooler? I would strongly recommend changing them to aftermarket fans, preferably PWM (for compatibility). A few weeks ago one of the SP120 high performance PWM fans that I use on the H100i started to make a ticking noise. The noise would rise and fall with the changing RPMS and was very annoying and distracting. It wasn't the firmware (as others suggested in another thread) because I hook my fans directly to the MB headers and control them with Fan Expert/Thermal Radar. It only effected one fan but I had to RMA both because I had purchased them as a set.
> 
> 
> 
> Well I mounted the stock fans temporarily and I was amazed at the difference in sound. Although the stock fans look exactly like the SP120s (without the colorful ring) they are certainly different on the inside. I had been lead to believe that they would be nearly the same, and some people even claimed that they may be better than most aftermarket models. The stock fans make a much higher pitched noise than the SP120s and they are audible at much lower rpms. At idle I can't hear the 120s (900rpms), but the stock fans are clearly audible at the same curve. During CPU stress testing they sound like a jet engine, and were almost worse than the ticking noise the broken SP120 was making. The SP120s aren't perfect and they become audible as the load increases, but the sound is much lower pitched. As far as cooling is concerned they are nearly the same, but the stock fans need slightly higher rpms (or a more aggressive fan curve). So not only are they nosier, but they need to be set slightly higher to achieve the same cooling efficiency. Mounting the stock fans really made me appreciate and miss the SP120s. The replacements came in yesterday and my computer is back to being relatively quiet and cool.
> 
> I only brought this up because I saw some people post comments (on PC part picker) that the stock fans are basically the same as the Corsair SP series, and that is just false. I also know that some people have claimed that aftermarket fans won't work with some Corsair closed loop water coolers, but you can always hook the fans into your MB headers, or a fan controller and bypass the Corsair link. I know most of you here are most likely not using the stock fans and I am preaching to the choir. To those of you that haven't upgraded I recommend that you do...


Very insightful, AND most importantly Believable! To be honest I was one of those who believed they were essentially the same fans but setup with differing RPM profiles









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Well I don't need to change backplates for the H80i on AMD systems. So would it be easier to mount the waterblock onto the CPU and get it screwed in before I screw the radiator in? I'm thinking it might be easier because the waterblock should be easier to handle when the radiator isn't screwed in.


I always mount the CPU block last, either way will work, but if you change out chips, CPU(s) or even reapply your TIM you can see why it's a good habit to do it this way








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> really? you havent overclocked? i have always been able to use my puters as small heaters. i warm up the pc room enough to close the heater vents in the winter and need better a/c in the summer.


Ditto!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Here is what mine looks like now. I am having trouble with the LED's like a lot of folks. Does anyone think Corsair would RMA this with a red paint job?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice looking rig/paint job








Normally RMA's are a swap out ... But I don't see why they wouldn't at least repair your unit (for free) if you ask them and explain the custom paint job, but turnaround time may take longer








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkangelZ*
> 
> So last night I swapped out the stock H100 fan's; which where my intake fans atm, for the SP120 HP verisons; which were just added last week as my exhaust fans. So now I'm running SP 120 HP's for intake and exhaust on my H100. Here are some pics from last night.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those dust bunnies were about about 2years of use. Looks like need to clean more often >.>


That I suspect is a Top/Intake setup







... and I'm curious if you came to the same conclusions (performance/noise) as BangBangPlay above? Even though your H100 stock fans are considerably different than his H100i stock fans.
Hey just saw your debezelling photo's do you have a link with more details of what exactly you did and how much you gained ... looks awesome but pics can be deceiving.


----------



## GeneratorJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Here is what mine looks like now. I am having trouble with the LED's like a lot of folks. Does anyone think Corsair would RMA this with a red paint job?


Nice rig!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkangelZ*
> 
> So last night I swapped out the stock H100 fan's; which where my intake fans atm, for the SP120 HP verisons; which were just added last week as my exhaust fans. So now I'm running SP 120 HP's for intake and exhaust on my H100. Here are some pics from last night.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those dust bunnies were about about 2years of use. Looks like need to clean more often >.>


I hope you cleaned them before putting them back in hehe


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> really? you havent overclocked? i have always been able to use my puters as small heaters. i warm up the pc room enough to close the heater vents in the winter and need better a/c in the summer.


Lol, I hear that! With my Corsair 600T sitting just off of the floor beside my right knee, when I am under heavy load the heat coming out of the top of the case could almost heat the room the computer is in.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Orc Warlord*
> 
> The reason my h100 is top intake is because I am using cougar vortex fans.
> 
> if I turn it into exhaust the fans will make the rattle sound. the fans are recommended as intake fans and should be placed either horizontally or vertical


I am curious. Who recommends them as intake fans and why, and exactly what is the difference? It sounds to me like they are just crappy fans that make noise if you orient them a certain way.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Again, I'd like to know where those numbers came from


http://www.corsair.com/us/cpu-cooling-kits/hydro-series-water-cooling-cpu-cooler/hydro-series-h100i-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler.html

http://www.corsair.com/us/air-series-sp120-pwm-high-performance-edition-high-static-pressure-fan-twin-pack.html

http://www.corsair.com/us/air-series-sp120-pwm-quiet-edition-high-static-pressure-fan-twin-pack.html

Isn't it amazing what you can find _when you actually look for it_?


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Lol, I hear that! With my Corsair 600T sitting just off of the floor beside my right knee, when I am under heavy load the heat coming out of the top of the case could almost heat the room the computer is in.
> I am curious. Who recommends them as intake fans and why, and exactly what is the difference? It sounds to me like they are just crappy fans that make noise if you orient them a certain way.
> http://www.corsair.com/us/cpu-cooling-kits/hydro-series-water-cooling-cpu-cooler/hydro-series-h100i-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler.html
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/us/air-series-sp120-pwm-high-performance-edition-high-static-pressure-fan-twin-pack.html
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/us/air-series-sp120-pwm-quiet-edition-high-static-pressure-fan-twin-pack.html
> 
> Isn't it amazing what you can find _when you actually look for it_?


I was thinking it was something other than manufacturer's spec. Call me crazy, but I never take any manufacturer's numbers as accurate, so I normally look to third person reviews where they explain how they record it and such is all.


----------



## Orc Warlord

If you put the cougar fans like |----EXHAUST----| they make a clicking sound.

I don't think cougar made these fans for radiators but more for vertical intake/exhaust and horizontal intake.

At 100% fan speed on 4x cougars in push/pull running as intakes on my h100... the noise level is fluctuating between 30 and 33 db (according to my android phone's sound meter).

My room is like 82F (26-27C) and my CPU idles at 32 on hottest core and reaches up to 65-70C during BF3 (4.8ghz 1.384v).

When I was living in dorms my temps were even lower because my room was 70F. I think I only saw like 60C tops if that when playing games and p95 temps went up to mid 80s whereas at home it goes up to 95 lol.

The stock corsair fans were ridiculously loud. I'm using 1 of them in my GPU cover thing in the HAF X and even with a fan controller to put them at lower speed they are still loud. I usually have the fan off and only use it if I see my GPU approach 65C (never have to do that unless I am playing metro lol)


----------



## GeneratorJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> I was thinking it was something other than manufacturer's spec. Call me crazy, but I never take any manufacturer's numbers as accurate, so I normally look to third person reviews where they explain how they record it and such is all.


Who would you trust?

The people that made the fans you're using or the people that dont make any fans?

Yes, there are reason why, you should look for independent review. Everyone do anyway.

Yes there may be ±10% on the specs. It may even be a specs of the best they have ever recorded or a average.

But its a good enough benchmark on what you're buying.

It wont be a ridiculous spec that is totally off from the actual specs.

If the Manufacturer's specs are so inaccurate then they will be out of business by now.

No one trust and spec 100%

People make collective judgement of all the review, then decide.


----------



## DarkangelZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> That I suspect is a Top/Intake setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and I'm curious if you came to the same conclusions (performance/noise) as BangBangPlay above? Even though your H100 stock fans are considerably different than his H100i stock fans.
> Hey just saw your debezelling photo's do you have a link with more details of what exactly you did and how much you gained ... looks awesome but pics can be deceiving.


Yes, that is a top of case setup. I have it pulling from inside and expelling out the top. My conclusion for the fans are they are an improvement over the stock h100 fans and are a tad louder. Then again I have my G930's on alot so noise is nothing to me. My son sleeps in the room next to my office and he doesn't complain =P lol

As far as the debezelling went, you can check out http://www.overclock.net/t/1397263/the-official-debezelled-monitor-club/180_20 for my pictures and write-up about the experience. The pictures aren't deceiving in this matter, they are a big difference and look better & sleeker. I have some more photos that I didn't upload but the ones I did put up get the picture across. I saved about 1.5mm per side about. The bezel now is 1.4-1.5mm wide wereas it was over 3mm before beforehand.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneratorJ*
> 
> Nice rig!
> I hope you cleaned them before putting them back in hehe


Of course I did!


----------



## djt01

I apologize if this question has already been answered somewhere in this thread but I'm trying to find out the best way to connect the fans on a H100i if I'm not going to use Corsair Link.

I'm replacing the stock fans that came with the radiator with two SP120 PWM High Performance Edition fans and one site recommended connecting both fans to one header on the motherboard with the supplied Y cable.

On the Asus Maximus VI Extreme motherboard I'm using there are two headers one labeled CPU_FAN and the other below it labeled CPU_OPT. Is it safe to connect the two SP120 PWM fan's to the CPU_OPT header with the Y cable?


----------



## GeneratorJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djt01*
> 
> I apologize if this question has already been answered somewhere in this thread but I'm trying to find out the best way to connect the fans on a H100i if I'm not going to use Corsair Link.
> 
> I'm replacing the stock fans that came with the radiator with two SP120 PWM High Performance Edition fans and one site recommended connecting both fans to one header on the motherboard with the supplied Y cable.
> 
> On the Asus Maximus VI Extreme motherboard I'm using there are two headers one labeled CPU_FAN and the other below it labeled CPU_OPT. Is it safe to connect the two SP120 PWM fan's to the CPU_OPT header with the Y cable?


I would suggest getting a Molex to Fan connector

Molex to 3 fan adapter 12V 20 cm
Molex to 3 fan adapter 7V 20 cm
Molex to 3 fan adapter 5V 20 cm


----------



## djt01

Thanks for the response.

If I use a Molex to Fan connector I won't be able to monitor fan speed? Would it be better to connect one fan to the CPU_OPT header and the other one to the next closest fan header?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djt01*
> 
> Thanks for the response.
> 
> If I use a Molex to Fan connector I won't be able to monitor fan speed? Would it be better to connect one fan to the CPU_OPT header and the other one to the next closest fan header?


You can use PWM splitter like *[this]*. With the 4-pin connected to CPU_FAN header, you can control the fan & monitor RPM in BIOS or AI Suite.


----------



## djt01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> You can use PWM splitter like *[this]*. With the 4-pin connected to CPU_FAN header, you can control the fan & monitor RPM in BIOS or AI Suite.


Would that be with using the PWM splitter only or do you mean I would be able to control control the fan & monitor RPM in BIOS if I used the 4 pin headers on the motherboard period.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djt01*
> 
> I apologize if this question has already been answered somewhere in this thread but I'm trying to find out the best way to connect the fans on a H100i if I'm not going to use Corsair Link.
> 
> I'm replacing the stock fans that came with the radiator with two SP120 PWM High Performance Edition fans and one site recommended connecting both fans to one header on the motherboard with the supplied Y cable.
> 
> On the Asus Maximus VI Extreme motherboard I'm using there are two headers one labeled CPU_FAN and the other below it labeled CPU_OPT. Is it safe to connect the two SP120 PWM fan's to the CPU_OPT header with the Y cable?


I am doing the same thing although I just hooked up one to the CPU_FAN header and the other the CPU_OPT and it works great. Any reason you don't want to do it this way? Or do you already have another fan connected to the CPU_FAN header? I would advise against hooking two fans into one MB header, as it likely wont give you enough amps for both to run properly. The other suggestions are also good, but they would require that you buy/order parts.


----------



## djt01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> I am doing the same thing although I just hooked up one to the CPU_FAN header and the other the CPU_OPT and it works great. Any reason you don't want to do it this way? Or do you already have another fan connected to the CPU_FAN header? I would advise against hooking two fans into one MB header, as it likely wont give you enough amps for both to run properly. The other suggestions are also good, but they would require that you buy/order parts.


That would be great, I thought that one of the CPU_FAN headers would be taken up because of the pump?


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djt01*
> 
> That would be great, I thought that one of the CPU_FAN headers would be taken up because of the pump?


Yes, that is true, although you only need a three pin connector for that. I connected my pump monitor to a standard chassis fan header. Corsair tells you to connect it to the CPU header to prevent the MB from detecting no fan on the CPU header and displaying an error on startup. The two CPU fan headers are the most convenient place to wire the two fans to IMO and they won't require an extension. Connect it to the header next to the red start button in the upper right hand corner of your board. I have the Asus Gryphon Z87, and that is where I ended up connecting my pump monitor cable...


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djt01*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> You can use PWM splitter like *[this]*. With the 4-pin connected to CPU_FAN header, you can control the fan & monitor RPM in BIOS or AI Suite.
> 
> 
> 
> Would that be with using the PWM splitter only or do you mean I would be able to control control the fan & monitor RPM in BIOS if I used the 4 pin headers on the motherboard period.
Click to expand...

That PWM splitter has 4-pin connector. Basically, connect the fans to the PWM splitter & then connect the 4-pin connector to CPU_FAN header. Then you can control both fans in BIOS or AI Suite. Only one of the fans will report RPM speed to motherboard. So you can monitor RPM speed too.

On Asus motherboards, fan connected to CPU_OPT will be running at full speed, unless using voltage drop down adapter. It can't be control.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> On Asus motherboards, fan connected to CPU_OPT will be running at full speed, unless using voltage drop down adapter. It can't be control.


That isn't the case for me. Like I posted above, I hook my H100i fans into the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT headers and I can control both fine using the Thermal Radar software. They are both listed as if it is a single fan (which actually simplifies it), but they both rise and fall with the curve I set. So yes you can't control both fans separately, but you can control them as a group.


----------



## djt01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Yes, that is true, although you only need a three pin connector for that. I connected my pump monitor to a standard chassis fan header. Corsair tells you to connect it to the CPU header to prevent the MB from detecting no fan on the CPU header and displaying an error on startup. The two CPU fan headers are the most convenient place to wire the two fans to IMO and they won't require an extension. Connect it to the header next to the red start button in the upper right hand corner of your board. I have the Asus Gryphon Z87, and that is where I ended up connecting my pump monitor cable...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> That PWM splitter has 4-pin connector. Basically, connect the fans to the PWM splitter & then connect the 4-pin connector to CPU_FAN header. Then you can control both fans in BIOS or AI Suite. Only one of the fans will report RPM speed to motherboard. So you can monitor RPM speed too.
> 
> On Asus motherboards, fan connected to CPU_OPT will be running at full speed, unless using voltage drop down adapter. It can't be control.


Thank you both for the information and help.

Now for my other dilemma, I already have an older H100 sitting in it's box unused and was wondering if it wouldn't just be better to stick the two SP120 PWM High Performance Edition fans on that instead since I'm not going to use Corsair Link anyway? I'm planning another build using the Corsair Carbide Air 540 and could just save the H100i for that setup.

If I stick with the older H100 can I just connect the new fans to the pump instead of the motherboard headers?


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneratorJ*
> 
> Who would you trust?
> 
> The people that made the fans you're using or the people that dont make any fans?
> 
> Yes, there are reason why, you should look for independent review. Everyone do anyway.
> 
> Yes there may be ±10% on the specs. It may even be a specs of the best they have ever recorded or a average.
> 
> But its a good enough benchmark on what you're buying.
> 
> It wont be a ridiculous spec that is totally off from the actual specs.
> 
> If the Manufacturer's specs are so inaccurate then they will be out of business by now.
> 
> No one trust and spec 100%
> 
> People make collective judgement of all the review, then decide.


No you're entirely wrong. NO ONE takes manufacturer's spec at face value. If that was the case, coolermaster would be making some of the quietest fans on the planet. Take a look at their benchmarks compared to your numbers here, or read what they had to say in their reviews here, here, here (don't be fooled by the fact that they were the quietest in this roundup, it was a collection of pretty meh fans), or just go to martin's liquid lab and listen to the comparisons for yourself.

You need to remember the manufacturer has the BEST reasons to skew results, reviewers don't.


----------



## Destrto

It has been stated that you can still plug the fans into the block of the H100i without using the Link software.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> That PWM splitter has 4-pin connector. Basically, connect the fans to the PWM splitter & then connect the 4-pin connector to CPU_FAN header. Then you can control both fans in BIOS or AI Suite. Only one of the fans will report RPM speed to motherboard. So you can monitor RPM speed too.
> 
> On Asus motherboards, fan connected to CPU_OPT will be running at full speed, unless using voltage drop down adapter. It can't be control.


My ASUS motherboard allows for fan control on the CPU_OPT header. That is where my VRM fan is plugged into and I am able to control it with multiple software.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Orc Warlord*
> 
> If you put the cougar fans like |----EXHAUST----| they make a clicking sound.
> 
> I don't think cougar made these fans for radiators but more for vertical intake/exhaust and horizontal intake.
> 
> At 100% fan speed on 4x cougars in push/pull running as intakes on my h100... the noise level is fluctuating between 30 and 33 db (according to my android phone's sound meter).
> 
> My room is like 82F (26-27C) and my CPU idles at 32 on hottest core and reaches up to 65-70C during BF3 (4.8ghz 1.384v).
> 
> When I was living in dorms my temps were even lower because my room was 70F. I think I only saw like 60C tops if that when playing games and p95 temps went up to mid 80s whereas at home it goes up to 95 lol.
> 
> The stock corsair fans were ridiculously loud. I'm using 1 of them in my GPU cover thing in the HAF X and even with a fan controller to put them at lower speed they are still loud. I usually have the fan off and only use it if I see my GPU approach 65C (never have to do that unless I am playing metro lol)


Exhaust or intake shouldn't make any difference especially if the fans are mounted vertically. All you're doing is turning the fan to point the opposite direction, which shouldn't make any difference.

If the fan makes noise when oriented in a particular direction when mounted horizontally, I would recommend avoiding those fans.


----------



## CannedBullets

I just got my H80i and motherboard installed. Right now my socket temps are at 45 C and they've been hovering at 40-45 C today, but that might be because its been on all day installing things and my ambients are 84 F. I'm using the stock thermal paste also and I have my fans set up as push pull exhaust.

Yeah the Noctua NF-F12s I have on them are great, they're quiet on performance mode.

EDIT: Okay, still downloading Skyrim and its DLC from steam, socket temp is at 46-47 C. This seems a little too hot for me but I guess I'll find out more when I run TomcatV's testing method.


----------



## maaxsta

I5-3570k @4.5 ghz cooled by the first H60. Temps are decent but still proud of the results


----------



## GeneratorJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> No you're entirely wrong. NO ONE takes manufacturer's spec at face value. If that was the case, coolermaster would be making some of the quietest fans on the planet. Take a look at their benchmarks compared to your numbers here, or read what they had to say in their reviews here, here, here (don't be fooled by the fact that they were the quietest in this roundup, it was a collection of pretty meh fans), or just go to martin's liquid lab and listen to the comparisons for yourself.
> 
> You need to remember the manufacturer has the BEST reasons to skew results, reviewers don't.


If you dont trust them.

Why do you buy stuff from the Manufacturers?









Go make your own stuff then and let see how you go


----------



## MrSharkington

Hi everyone, I've noticed my pump seems to always have air bubbles in it and they make this really annoying popping sound, I've tried tilting my case but it hasn't really made much of a difference, anything else worth a try?

EDIT: I have the h100i btw


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> Hi everyone, I've noticed my pump seems to always have air bubbles in it and they make this really annoying popping sound, I've tried tilting my case but it hasn't really made much of a difference, anything else worth a try?
> 
> EDIT: I have the h100i btw


They just have to work themselves out. Sometimes you have to lay it on it's side or move it around a bit. Tap on the tubes as well, little flick action can cause enough motion to get them to float up into the rad where you want that trapped air to stay. Running the pump for a good period of time, few days, is key though. Hope it helps.


----------



## willll162904

Hey guys can u answer a question for me?







So i just ordered an h60 for my i5 3570. my 660ti is overclocked to about 11745under load and it never gets to 70 under load 72 under heaven 4.0. my gpu is non k so i can only oc it to 4.2 at the most. So realistically would it be better to run my h60 in exhaust so my gpu doesnt heat up since i dont need the coldest possible in my cpu cuz my gpu is more oced?


----------



## Mergatroid

^ It just doesn't matter all that much. You're only going to see a degree or two difference any way. Go back literally a few pages and you will see a discussion on that very topic.


----------



## GeneratorJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willll162904*
> 
> Hey guys can u answer a question for me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So i just ordered an h60 for my i5 3570. my 660ti is overclocked to about 11745under load and it never gets to 70 under load 72 under heaven 4.0. my gpu is non k so i can only oc it to 4.2 at the most. So realistically would it be better to run my h60 in exhaust so my gpu doesnt heat up since i dont need the coldest possible in my cpu cuz my gpu is more oced?


It depends.

How many fans are you running as intake and how many exhaust?

Read about 2 or 3 pages back and there has been a convo about Intake and Exhaust.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willll162904*
> 
> Hey guys can u answer a question for me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So i just ordered an h60 for my i5 3570. my 660ti is overclocked to about 11745under load and it never gets to 70 under load 72 under heaven 4.0. my gpu is non k so i can only oc it to 4.2 at the most. So realistically would it be better to run my h60 in exhaust so my gpu doesnt heat up since i dont need the coldest possible in my cpu cuz my gpu is more oced?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GeneratorJ*
> 
> It depends.
> 
> How many fans are you running as intake and how many exhaust?
Click to expand...

Just to be clear ... Mergatroid has a very nice post about 5 pages back, post #23767 *[HERE]* covering your very topic. But as Generator ask's depends a slight bit on your case fan setup? ... But in your case I would try and set it up to benefit your H60 operating as a rear exhaust. Mainly for improved (although slight) GPU/Case/Mobo temps and probably less maintenance cleaning your radiator


----------



## willll162904

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Just to be clear ... Mergatroid has a very nice post about 5 pages back, post #23767 *[HERE]* covering your very topic. But as Generator ask's depends a slight bit on your case fan setup? ... But in your case I would try and set it up to benefit your H60 operating as a rear exhaust. Mainly for improved (although slight) GPU/Case/Mobo temps and probably less maintenance cleaning your radiator


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneratorJ*
> 
> It depends.
> 
> How many fans are you running as intake and how many exhaust?
> 
> Read about 2 or 3 pages back and there has been a convo about Intake and Exhaust.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> ^ It just doesn't matter all that much. You're only going to see a degree or two difference any way. Go back literally a few pages and you will see a discussion on that very topic.


sorry tom i missed that post!!







I have 2 120mm fans intake in the front and two 120mm fans exhausting on the top. currently i have 1 intake in the front 2 exhaust ontop and one intake in the back where my h60 will end up going.


----------



## GeneratorJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willll162904*
> 
> sorry tom i missed that post!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 2 120mm fans intake in the front and two 120mm fans exhausting on the top. currently i have 1 intake in the front 2 exhaust ontop and one intake in the back where my h60 will end up going.


Like what TomcatV said, you will need a lot more maintenance if you use the H60 as intake, due to dust being sucked in.


----------



## rickyman0319

I am wondering what fan do u guys use for ur H60,H80 and etc?

Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition without PWM
Corsair Air Series SP120 (CO-9050011-WW) 120mm PWM Quiet Edition High Static Pressure Fan
Corsair Air Series SP120 (CO-9050014-WW) 120mm PWM High Performance Edition High Static Pressure
Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition CO-9050007-WW 120mm High Static Pressure Case Fan w/o PWM

or any brand of High static Pressure fan.

which fan is good for it?


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am wondering what fan do u guys use for ur H60,H80 and etc?
> 
> Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition without PWM
> Corsair Air Series SP120 (CO-9050011-WW) 120mm PWM Quiet Edition High Static Pressure Fan
> Corsair Air Series SP120 (CO-9050014-WW) 120mm PWM High Performance Edition High Static Pressure
> Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition CO-9050007-WW 120mm High Static Pressure Case Fan w/o PWM
> 
> or any brand of High static Pressure fan.
> 
> which fan is good for it?


I personally use the SP120s quiet version they don't have the PWM but I don't think that matters as I run them 100% and can't hear them. For the high performance SP120s you might want the new PWM version so you can adjust them easily. Everyone's going to have their own opinions of what fans to use though.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Everyone's going to have their own opinions of what fans to use though.


exactly this. some people have very good hearing and others have 'selective' hearing. what is loud to some is quiet to another.
what is most important? price, performance or looks?


----------



## rickyman0319

mine is performece, price and I don't care about look at all.

performece, price and then sound.


----------



## GeneratorJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am wondering what fan do u guys use for ur H60,H80 and etc?
> 
> Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition without PWM
> Corsair Air Series SP120 (CO-9050011-WW) 120mm PWM Quiet Edition High Static Pressure Fan
> Corsair Air Series SP120 (CO-9050014-WW) 120mm PWM High Performance Edition High Static Pressure
> Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition CO-9050007-WW 120mm High Static Pressure Case Fan w/o PWM
> 
> or any brand of High static Pressure fan.
> 
> which fan is good for it?


Read a few pages back and you'll see there has been a in-depth discussion about this.

We dont have to stir up the water again hehe

Just read through a few pages back.

I would personally go with Performance, Sound then Price


----------



## pc-illiterate

any 38mm fan if you can fit it where you need it: delta, scythe gt, panaflow
25mm wise, the gt ap-15 is king of the hill, period
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/28/r9-fan-testing-gentle-typhoon-ap-29/
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/07/r10-fan-testing-bitfenixnoctuasilenxnoiseblockerphobya/
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/05/07/fan-testing-round-12/
old chart from 2010 for less than 'new' fans
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2010/11/04/120mm-fan-testing-on-an-mcr120-radiator-round-6-summary/

there are other fan reviews but martin is usually consistent and i believe he still uses the same basic set-up for testing.


----------



## Mergatroid

That's a good point some of you guys have made. Not everyone is looking for the same thing in a fan. Personally, I want performance and control, which is why I always select PWM fans when I can get them.
Others want performance/low noise, in which case the AP-15s are top-of-the-line (along with some Yate Loons, especially if you factor cost into it).

For pure performance, not caring about noise, there are tons of fans to choose from including 38mm fans someone mentioned earlier.

IMAO, there is no "the best" fan since it depends on what you're looking for.


----------



## willll162904

Hey guys i just got mine!







On the form (sorry if this sounds stupid) but what does 'load t' mean? Also what tim application do you recommend for the h60? i apologize if this was already discussed :/ Im thinking of going with the stock pre applied and if the temps suck then apply my own.

*edit* OK i found that the stock paste is pretty decent but methods on application methods of aftermarket are still welcome!


----------



## MrSharkington

Hi everyone, I've decided to buy a pair of noctua nf-f12 PWM fans for my h100i, the stock fans really do make a lot of noise so I decided after 3 or so months of having them, it's time for an upgrade. Anyone on here had experience with these fans?


----------



## Zillerella

Quote:


> Anyone on here had experience with these fans?


Well I friend of mine in talking so good about them, so it's defo not a bad buy.


----------



## CaptainZombie

I have a EVGA 770 ACX that I wanted to water cool, would the H100 or H110 be able to water cool a GPU or do I have to do custom loop at that point? This is in my HTPC and when gaming those fans kick on the 770 can get a little annoying.


----------



## Snuckie7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> I have a EVGA 770 ACX that I wanted to water cool, would the H100 or H110 be able to water cool a GPU or do I have to do custom loop at that point? This is in my HTPC and when gaming those fans kick on the 770 can get a little annoying.


You could mount an AIO to a video card, but that would require a little modding. I say go for the full loop if you're willing to build one.


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snuckie7*
> 
> You could mount an AIO to a video card, but that would require a little modding. I say go for the full loop if you're willing to build one.


I was reading on another site of a guy named "dwood" that creates custom brackets that work very well. In that thread they said he had to stop taking orders for a little bit because he was so slammed with orders. I guess last month at Computex NZXT showed off brackets that they would be selling for AIO coolers to mount to a GPU.

I have considered going the custom loop for my GPU, but the costs are kind of holding me back.


----------



## pc-illiterate

if/when nzxt sells a bracket, it will be for their a-i-o units. they wont help corsair on that front.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Snuckie7*
> 
> You could mount an AIO to a video card, but that would require a little modding. I say go for the full loop if you're willing to build one.
> 
> 
> 
> I was reading on another site of a guy named "dwood" that creates custom brackets that work very well. In that thread they said he had to stop taking orders for a little bit because he was so slammed with orders. I guess last month at Computex NZXT showed off brackets that they would be selling for AIO coolers to mount to a GPU.
> 
> I have considered going the custom loop for my GPU, but the costs are kind of holding me back.
Click to expand...

I think I have seen those brackets for the H1/80i it uses the same shape of the existing mounting bracket and then adds room for a 120mm fan next to it for the VRMs. I'm pretty sure it would be possible to just use the regular mounting hardware but use different screws to secure the bracket to the GPU. The VRMs would still require some heatsinks though and some sort of air flow passing over them. It wouldn't make any sense to keep the GPU cool and forget about the VRMs.

Custom loop is expensive for just a GPU, but then again that's why they have a market for these AIO coolers.


----------



## Darc

I've had the H60i for a week now, but I have not been able to install it because I had to remove the two top CPU brackets on my motherboard, and the bottom brace in order to install the first aftermarket cooler I bought - which turned out to be too large to fit inside the Bitfenix Prodigy anyway.

Just my luck, lol.

So, I've been back and forth with MSI customer support in order to obtain another motherboard bottom brace, but due to either a lack of clarity on my part or mental fatigue on the other I have been sent another set of top mounting brackets.

Can I still install the Corsair H60i with only the two stock CPU brackets without the brace at the bottom of the motherboard?


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darc*
> 
> I've had the H60i for a week now, but I have not been able to install it because I had to remove the two top CPU brackets on my motherboard, and the bottom brace in order to install the first aftermarket cooler I bought - which turned out to be too large to fit inside the Bitfenix Prodigy anyway.
> 
> Just my luck, lol.
> 
> So, I've been back and forth with MSI customer support in order to obtain another motherboard bottom brace, but due to either a lack of clarity on my part or mental fatigue on the other I have been sent another set of top mounting brackets.
> 
> Can I still install the Corsair H60i with only the two stock CPU brackets without the brace at the bottom of the motherboard?


I don't know the answer to your question as I don't use Intel sorry, but I have one for you. I am doing a build for my step-son and I am using a Prodigy I have laying around.
I am wondering what cooler you had that did not fit so I can make sure and not make your mistake. I appreciate it. Thanks.


----------



## willll162904

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darc*
> 
> I've had the H60i for a week now, but I have not been able to install it because I had to remove the two top CPU brackets on my motherboard, and the bottom brace in order to install the first aftermarket cooler I bought - which turned out to be too large to fit inside the Bitfenix Prodigy anyway.
> 
> Just my luck, lol.
> 
> So, I've been back and forth with MSI customer support in order to obtain another motherboard bottom brace, but due to either a lack of clarity on my part or mental fatigue on the other I have been sent another set of top mounting brackets.
> 
> Can I still install the Corsair H60i with only the two stock CPU brackets without the brace at the bottom of the motherboard?


Hey! i just intalled my h60 on my asus p8z77-v lk with an i5 3570. If you are asking about needing the extra brackets for intel the answer is no. with intel sockets you do not need any extra brackets or braces to install them. If you mean the bracket like thing you mount behind the mobo then yes that is totally necessary, if you mean the brackets that look like a cut in half square than no, those are only for amd


----------



## pc-illiterate

first guys, darc has an amd board and chip. its in his sig rig. second willlllllllllllllll, he needs his motherboard brackets not the h60 included brackets.


----------



## willll162904

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> first guys, darc has an amd board and chip. its in his sig rig. second willlllllllllllllll, he needs his motherboard brackets not the h60 included brackets.


+1 sorry!!! my bad. thanks for clearing it up!


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> I think I have seen those brackets for the H1/80i it uses the same shape of the existing mounting bracket and then adds room for a 120mm fan next to it for the VRMs. I'm pretty sure it would be possible to just use the regular mounting hardware but use different screws to secure the bracket to the GPU. The VRMs would still require some heatsinks though and some sort of air flow passing over them. It wouldn't make any sense to keep the GPU cool and forget about the VRMs.
> 
> Custom loop is expensive for just a GPU, but then again that's why they have a market for these AIO coolers.


Yeah, that is very true I didn't even think about the waterblock for the GPU to keep those VRM's cool. I can always get a loop for the GPU, keep using my H60 for the CPU and when I do get additional funds I can always make the CPU a custom loop too since I would probably also need a rad for the CPU too unless I can run it all off of one rad.


----------



## pc-illiterate

the vrm already have heatsinks on them. they just need airflow. in reality, a universal gpu block is better than a full cover block.


----------



## rickyman0319

H60 vs H80 on i7 4770K. what is H80 better?

can I put inside the Silverstone PS07 case?

if I can put H80 or NH-D14 (with 2 fans( middle and back)) inside the case, which one will u pick for it?


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> the vrm already have heatsinks on them. they just need airflow. in reality, a universal gpu block is better than a full cover block.


Any good ones that you can recommend with links?


----------



## pc-illiterate

ek, swiftech, raystorm, heatkiller, if you can find a danger den that will fit(maze5 i believe and maybe maze4)
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcungpuwa1.html
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsrahipeungp.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_971_240_579&sort=20a&page=3
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_578&products_id=36175

i have 2 swiftechs. great blocks. i wouldve used the raystorm had they been in stock.


----------



## Darc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I don't know the answer to your question as I don't use Intel sorry, but I have one for you. I am doing a build for my step-son and I am using a Prodigy I have laying around.
> I am wondering what cooler you had that did not fit so I can make sure and not make your mistake. I appreciate it. Thanks.


Neither do I, lol. I am using AMD - and definitely, the aftermarket CPU cooler I used was a Enermax TB Silence which I had to fit inside the case sideways to even make it operational (which I do not recommend).

Hope all goes well with the build.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willll162904*
> 
> Hey! i just intalled my h60 on my asus p8z77-v lk with an i5 3570. If you are asking about needing the extra brackets for intel the answer is no. with intel sockets you do not need any extra brackets or braces to install them. If you mean the bracket like thing you mount behind the mobo then yes that is totally necessary, if you mean the brackets that look like a cut in half square than no, those are only for amd


Thanks for the response! Not using Intel, though, I must have not been clear in my original post. I did need the brace for underneath the AMD motherboard though, but after a quick clarification email the right parts are being sent.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> first guys, darc has an amd board and chip. its in his sig rig. second willlllllllllllllll, he needs his motherboard brackets not the h60 included brackets.


Thanks for clearing that up


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> ek, swiftech, raystorm, heatkiller, if you can find a danger den that will fit(maze5 i believe and maybe maze4)
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcungpuwa1.html
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsrahipeungp.html
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_971_240_579&sort=20a&page=3
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_578&products_id=36175
> 
> i have 2 swiftechs. great blocks. i wouldve used the raystorm had they been in stock.


Would I need a full water block like this (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsragtx770fu.html) or can I be ok with the smaller blocks you have provided?

Since Raystorm is out of stock, would you recommend Swiftech then out of those? I tend to see that brand name a lot in water cooling threads.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> I was reading on another site of a guy named "dwood" that creates custom brackets that work very well. In that thread they said he had to stop taking orders for a little bit because he was so slammed with orders. I guess last month at Computex NZXT showed off brackets that they would be selling for AIO coolers to mount to a GPU.
> 
> I have considered going the custom loop for my GPU, but the costs are kind of holding me back.


Here ya go:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1247567/h60-h80-h100-installed-on-gpu-bracket-inside

Of course, there's also this:

http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX39770

Which I would already have if it wasn't so damn expensive (I would need two of them).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darc*
> 
> I've had the H60i for a week now, but I have not been able to install it because I had to remove the two top CPU brackets on my motherboard, and the bottom brace in order to install the first aftermarket cooler I bought - which turned out to be too large to fit inside the Bitfenix Prodigy anyway.
> 
> Just my luck, lol.
> 
> So, I've been back and forth with MSI customer support in order to obtain another motherboard bottom brace, but due to either a lack of clarity on my part or mental fatigue on the other I have been sent another set of top mounting brackets.
> 
> Can I still install the Corsair H60i with only the two stock CPU brackets without the brace at the bottom of the motherboard?


Have you checked the sff build thread here? I believe people there have put AIO coolers in the Prodigy. There may also be a separate Prodigy thread, but I haven't looked for it myself.


----------



## GeneratorJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> I was reading on another site of a guy named "dwood" that creates custom brackets that work very well. In that thread they said he had to stop taking orders for a little bit because he was so slammed with orders. I guess last month at Computex NZXT showed off brackets that they would be selling for AIO coolers to mount to a GPU.
> 
> I have considered going the custom loop for my GPU, but the costs are kind of holding me back.


Dwood is here too


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darc*
> 
> Neither do I, lol. I am using AMD - and definitely, the aftermarket CPU cooler I used was a Enermax TB Silence which I had to fit inside the case sideways to even make it operational (which I do not recommend).
> 
> Hope all goes well with the build.
> Thanks for the response! Not using Intel, though, I must have not been clear in my original post. I did need the brace for underneath the AMD motherboard though, but after a quick clarification email the right parts are being sent.
> Thanks for clearing that up


Yea my bad I just assumed because you had to remove the bracket you were using Intel. Never heard of someone removing them on an AMD board until now. Thanks for the info on the Cooler. I will stay away. from that one.


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Here ya go:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1247567/h60-h80-h100-installed-on-gpu-bracket-inside
> 
> Of course, there's also this:
> 
> http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX39770


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneratorJ*
> 
> Dwood is here too


Thanks guys, I see he has stopped orders completely. I'll probably just look at setting up a custom loop.


----------



## Darc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Have you checked the sff build thread here? I believe people there have put AIO coolers in the Prodigy. There may also be a separate Prodigy thread, but I haven't looked for it myself.


Yep. I've been around the Prodigy Owner's Club thread, but I think with this shipment of parts from MSI everything will be cleared up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Yea my bad I just assumed because you had to remove the bracket you were using Intel. Never heard of someone removing them on an AMD board until now. Thanks for the info on the Cooler. I will stay away. from that one.


No problem.

Yeah, I would stay away from that air cooler.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> Would I need a full water block like this (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsragtx770fu.html) or can I be ok with the smaller blocks you have provided?
> 
> Since Raystorm is out of stock, would you recommend Swiftech then out of those? I tend to see that brand name a lot in water cooling threads.


i would personally never buy a full cover block. every gpu change means block change. odds are you can move the uni block to the next gpu. my first choice was the swiftech. when i saw xspc a uni block, i wanted to try the raystorm to see how it compared because i never saw a review or anyone else using it.
its a good idea to get the copper heatsinks for the vrm and memory but isnt absolutely needed. make sure you get the copper if you do though. i had a total of 3 of 12 aluminum sinks fall off my memory.
btw, i have yet to break 38*C on my cards running parallel. i do have 600mm of rad space though. and if you check my pump, ek dcp-4.0, it isnt exactly a workhorse pump. my loop isnt pretty but it works well


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> i would personally never buy a full cover block. every gpu change means block change. odds are you can move the uni block to the next gpu. my first choice was the swiftech. when i saw xspc a uni block, i wanted to try the raystorm to see how it compared because i never saw a review or anyone else using it.
> its a good idea to get the copper heatsinks for the vrm and memory but isnt absolutely needed. make sure you get the copper if you do though. i had a total of 3 of 12 aluminum sinks fall off my memory.
> btw, i have yet to break 38*C on my cards running parallel. i do have 600mm of rad space though. and if you check my pump, ek dcp-4.0, it isnt exactly a workhorse pump. my loop isnt pretty but it works well


Which heatsinks should I be looking at? If you have links, send away. I'm new to custom water cooling so I have no clue. LOL!


----------



## pc-illiterate

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/enbmfocobgar.html
expensive but works well. may be able to find somewhere cheaper.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/enmofocomohe.html
i cant find(havent looked) for someplace having them or even cheaper.

the ramsinks are also available as shortys. you need a few shorts to clear the ram around the gpu where the block sits. you can find a pic of naked graphics pcb at ek cooling config.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/enbcbmlowprf.html
i bought the 12mmx12mmx18mm aluminum. good size and actually fit the vram.
sorry but the best i can do before i go to bed.
night all


----------



## Wrecker66

can h110 fit antec p280 case on top where there are 2x120 fans or needs to be modded?


----------



## pc-illiterate

well the h110 uses 140 fans. the p280 has spots for 2x 120 fans. you would have to do some cutting and drilling.


----------



## rickyman0319

I am curious if we can mod H60,H110,100 like H50 or not.


----------



## phre0n

just bought 2 more "stock" fans for my H100i for a push/pull


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am curious if we can mod H60,H110,100 like H50 or not.


Mod them in what way?


----------



## rickyman0319

http://www.overclock.net/t/647943/guide-h50-replace-tubes-and-res-mod


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/647943/guide-h50-replace-tubes-and-res-mod


That can be done with any AIO cooler.

I plan to do this to my H100 at some point. Already have the tubing.


----------



## CaptainZombie

I am quite confused with the performance of my H60. I first had it in my Silverstone Grandia GD08 HTPC case via pull configuration using the stock fan that came with it where on idle I was getting 29-32 degrees in temps. I transfer the H60 with components to the 350D in a push/pull configuration with SP120's Quiet Edition fan's and I am getting 35-37 degrees on idle. I also applied new thermal paste too to see if that was the issue, but it was not.

Any suggestions what could be causing this?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> I am quite confused with the performance of my H60. I first had it in my Silverstone Grandia GD08 HTPC case via pull configuration using the stock fan that came with it where on idle I was getting 29-32 degrees in temps. I transfer the H60 with components to the 350D in a push/pull configuration with SP120's Quiet Edition fan's and I am getting 35-37 degrees on idle. I also applied new thermal paste too to see if that was the issue, but it was not.
> 
> Any suggestions what could be causing this?


Case ambients. Room ambients. Also, Idle temps are not accurate at all. Run a light stress test and compare it with what you had in your previous case.


----------



## pc-illiterate

the stock fans push ahelluva lot more air than than corsair quiets ever will.

*EDIT* - what paste did you use for the mount?


----------



## XC99

Heres my setup, HAF X.











I have a 2nd h100i with a broken pump (i think) im thinking of linking its rad to my working one. Any thoughts?


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> the stock fans push ahelluva lot more air than than corsair quiets ever will.
> 
> *EDIT* - what paste did you use for the mount?


This started happening once I transferred cases as I was using same fans and thermal paste. Yesterday I bought 2 AF120s QE and Cooler Master thermal paste. They didn't have any other paste. Should I look for some Arctic Silver instead? Tiger Direct has to be one of the worst stores around as their inventory in stores is terrible.


----------



## MrSharkington

Hi everyone, I've been trying to get rid of the air bubbles in my h100i and it's really urking me that they aren't going away. My rad is front mounted, rather than being at the top, though i noticed if I position my case so the rad is facing upwards, the noise goes away. Could it really be due to the rad placement?


----------



## pc-illiterate

of course.
the air has no where to go except the highest spot in the rad which is an end cap(mounted vertically in the front or back) or somewhere along the entire top(mounted horizontal)


----------



## rickyman0319

u guys know any good quiet fans that I can put on h80i?


----------



## DeOmZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> u guys know any good quiet fans that I can put on h80i?


I'm also using H80i. Fans included on the box should be ok. But if you really want to change it, you can use SP120 Quiet edition.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> u guys know any good quiet fans that I can put on h80i?


The Noctua NF-F12s are nice.


----------



## rickyman0319

Noctua NF-F12s vs SP120 quiet edtion

which one is better?


----------



## Spectre-

can i join plox


----------



## DeOmZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> Noctua NF-F12s vs SP120 quiet edtion
> 
> which one is better?


Noctua is better based on performance.
SP120 is better based on looks..


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> Noctua NF-F12s vs SP120 quiet edtion
> 
> which one is better?


I'd say neither and get the noiseblocker eloops. Look better than either, and perform better than either as well so long as it's push or pull only.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeOmZ*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> Noctua NF-F12s vs SP120 quiet edtion
> 
> which one is better?
> 
> 
> 
> Noctua is better based on performance.
> SP120 is better based on looks..
Click to expand...

Totally agree with this the SP120s look better than brown ugly Noctuas. I'll take a slight degree performance dip for better looks.


----------



## GingertronMk1

Does anyone know the max. wattage of the fan hub on the H100i? Like, could I run Deltas off it?

EDIT: RamGuy over on another forum stated that "fans you use cannot draw more than 2 amps each." LINK


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Totally agree with this the SP120s look better than brown ugly Noctuas. I'll take a slight degree performance dip for better looks.


I too agree, and I had to make the same decision not to long ago when I RMAd my SP120 HP PWMs because of a ticking sound. I thought about switching to Noctua PWMs but just hate the color. I ended up just getting another 2 pack of the SP120 PWMs, but I heard that Noctua are finally releasing black editions. A wise marketing move, they probably should have done a while ago. Where did they come up with that color for such a well made fan? But hopefully people won't have to make that compromise in the near future.


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Totally agree with this the SP120s look better than brown ugly Noctuas. I'll take a slight degree performance dip for better looks.


I saw ur system got SP120 quiet fan.

I am wondering if I get sp120 HP pwm fan or SP120 quiet fan, nf-f12 for H80i.

H80i for i7 4770k system.


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> I too agree, and I had to make the same decision not to long ago when I RMAd my SP120 HP PWMs because of a ticking sound. I thought about switching to Noctua PWMs but just hate the color. I ended up just getting another 2 pack of the SP120 PWMs, but I heard that Noctua are finally releasing black editions. A wise marketing move, they probably should have done a while ago. Where did they come up with that color for such a well made fan? But hopefully people won't have to make that compromise in the near future.


where do u read about they are making black edtions fan?


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> where do u read about they are making black edtions fan?


I think it was this year's Computex.


----------



## GingertronMk1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> I too agree, and I had to make the same decision not to long ago when I RMAd my SP120 HP PWMs because of a ticking sound. I thought about switching to Noctua PWMs but just hate the color. I ended up just getting another 2 pack of the SP120 PWMs, but I heard that Noctua are finally releasing black editions. A wise marketing move, they probably should have done a while ago. Where did they come up with that color for such a well made fan? But hopefully people won't have to make that compromise in the near future.


The black fans are for the industrial market; they have uprated motors and different materials. They are NOT designed as consumer fans, in much the same way as Deltas.


----------



## CannedBullets

I get that the Noctuas have an ugly color scheme, but do they really put people off? They're probably some of the best fans on the market.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> I get that the Noctuas have an ugly color scheme, but do they really put people off? They're probably some of the best fans on the market.


Yea, the color matters to a lot of people. I personally will not buy them until 1. the new color scheme comes to market, and B. they drop in price by about 80%. (exaggerating)


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> I'd say neither and get the noiseblocker eloops. Look better than either, and perform better than either as well so long as it's push or pull only.


Hey Phantom did I miss your post/link? on a comparison of eLoops vs your stock fans. Honestly what do you think? Performance vs noise etc ... do you have some load temp comparisons w P95 @ what? rpm's etc etc









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> where do u read about they are making black edtions fan?


Generator brought it to our attention starting with a post *[HERE]* ... read on and later I have a post/link confirming what Gingertronmk1 has said. Doesn't look like the "venerable" F-12's will be getting a cosmetic makeover anytime soon ... which in reality what we are all wishing for, or at least the option to buy a different color scheme


----------



## Destrto

What had always seemed weird to me was why they didn't offer that any sooner, different color frames and such. i mean, how long have these fans been out?


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Hey Phantom did I miss your post/link? on a comparison of eLoops vs your stock fans. Honestly what do you think? Performance vs noise etc ... do you have some load temp comparisons w P95 @ what? rpm's etc etc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Generator brought it to our attention starting with a post *[HERE]* ... read on and later I have a post/link confirming what Gingertronmk1 has said. Doesn't look like the "venerable" F-12's will be getting a cosmetic makeover anytime soon ... which in reality what we are all wishing for, or at least the option to buy a different color scheme


I don't have any benchmarks to show you, but you can take a look on martin's liquid lab he did some recent testing with them. Temperatures are a few C lower both idle and load (though a portion of that may also be due to my case change), and they're orders of magnitude quieter than the stock fans. Not to mention they look dead sexy.


----------



## Devildog83

Both Corsair and Notua have great fans for a radiator, get SP 120 performance PWM fans if you want to go Corsair. No need to get quiets for this because they just run slower. The Gentle Typhoons (AP15) are still the best for noise to airflow you can get, it's just a fact. I still bought the SP120 perf. PWM's because the noise difference doesn't mean much to me because I have Tenitus and fan noise is soothing to me. My H100i keeps my FX 8350 very cool @ 4.8 Ghz and that's all that matters too me along with the looks of the fan.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> I don't have any benchmarks to show you, but you can take a look on martin's liquid lab he did some recent testing with them. Temperatures are a few C lower both idle and load (though a portion of that may also be due to my case change), and they're orders of magnitude quieter than the stock fans. Not to mention they look dead sexy.


Below is why I was asking for details, because I really like the "Looks" of the eLoops but at $5 more than the GT AP-15's it's hard to recommend them over the GT's. But I "might" recommend them over the over-rated especially concerning price(?) Noctua's F12 if we get some more real world feedback with details. I'm also assuming you have the B12-3 1900rpm eLoops not the B12-4 2400rpm's ? Without more specific details to your overclocks/operating tests/conditions, and after reading Martin's review I find it hard to honestly believe the eLoops are ...

*"orders of magnitude quieter than the stock fans".*









They may be "slightly" better for you in your setup, but I also highly value Martin's reviews and have so for quite some time now









Reading in detail for the 2nd time Martin's Fan Testing Round 12 *[HERE]* combine this with all the real world user feedback @ OCN (+my own experience) and I'm going to stick with my original recommendation of the GT AP-15's as the only real significantly improved upgrade over the Corsair Stock fans for noise improvement with the H100/i for a well ventilated case, @ moderate/high OC's (Intel 4.4-4.6), with average ambients (appx 22c) and average fan speeds of appx 1800rpm. AND for those with higher/hotter OC's and conditions the Gentle Typhoon AP-45 2150RPM are looking really promising for "noise" improvement in those conditions









Martin does like the noise "Tone" of the eLoops but from his video's and statistics he doesn't see much difference in performance and noise levels between the Corsair SP120 HP vs the 2x's more expensive Noiseblocker E-Loop B12-3 1900RPM @ THE SAME OPERATING RPM's! ... I know the stock H100i fans are slightly different than the SP120 HP's but if you match the RPM's I doubt you'll see much difference noise wise, and they will outperform them at higher overclocks/rpm's if noise isn't a concern during benching or 5.1 sound gaming









I HIGHLY RECOMMEND everyone read "In Detail" Martin's review above









*Some Quote's from Martin's review ...*

@600FPM air flow levels
*[Most common for high quality static pressure fans operating @1800-2000rpm's ...
The eLoop B12-3 1900rpm only make it to 560FPM but still is OK for moderate overclocks ]

_•The two GT fans continue to have legs to get to this point and at their trademark low noise levels although not what I would call great noise quality. There is a rather dominating bearing noise without much air noise to mask it. Regardless, it is hard to argue with the low 46dBA noise level at these speeds.
•The Corsair SP120 would take second lowest noise level at this point with about 54dBA. It is considerably higher than the GTs, but still seems to be in it's game without any unusual noise quality issues, fairly smooth for the speed.
•The B12-4 higher speed Noiseblocker E-loop also makes it this far, but noise quality dramatically reduces with a higher whine developing. Noise level is a similar 54dBA, but it sounds louder than that by ear.
•The Piranha also has legs to get here, but it's the loudest of the bunch at 58dBA and also has some noise quality issues with an undulating low frequency and some motor tick.
•The Noctua and Cougar fans are not capable of this much air flow.

BEST FAN 600FPM & 700FPM (>1500 RPM)

While the noise blocker is really nice at slower speeds, the Gentle Typhoon rules the high speed area. I wouldn't call either one silent or perfect in noise quality, they do produce a different tone which seems slightly more whiny with bearing noise than others, but the noise level is remarkably low in comparison. *The Corsair SP120 is actually not too bad at higher speeds as well,* but it does have a slightly lower maximum where the GT AP-45 is doing just a bit better.

King of "BEST NOISE LEVEL/AIR FLOW THROUGH A RADIATOR"

The Gentle Typhoons retain their crown on this criteria and really shine at very high speeds, but that differentiation does drop off as speed decrease. The Noiseblockers e-loops also have an interesting noise quality and perform really well at speeds below about 1500RPM. At the 400FPM and 500FPM performance levels by ear I have a hard time telling the difference between the GTs and the Noiseblocker B12-3. The smoother noise quality of the Noiseblocker almost seems to make up the difference in noise level. *The Corsair SP120 also does fairly well on noise level and consistently so throughout it's speed range*, it's just not as smooth in noise quality as the NBs are at slower speeds, but it does hold it's up at higher speeds. None are even close to the GTs at really high speeds though where the GTs have upwards of a 10dbA noise level advantage.

_
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Both Corsair and Notua have great fans for a radiator, get SP 120 performance PWM fans if you want to go Corsair. No need to get quiets for this because they just run slower. *The Gentle Typhoons (AP15) are still the best for noise to airflow you can get, it's just a fact.* I still bought the SP120 perf. PWM's because the noise difference doesn't mean much to me because I have Tenitus and fan noise is soothing to me. My H100i keeps my FX 8350 very cool @ 4.8 Ghz and that's all that matters too me along with the looks of the fan.


*DITTO!*







... see above


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> I get that the Noctuas have an ugly color scheme, but do they really put people off? They're probably some of the best fans on the market.


There's no way I would install those ugly things in my case. There are plenty of good fans around without resorting to ugly. Of course, you could always take them apart and paint them. Others have.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> What had always seemed weird to me was why they didn't offer that any sooner, different color frames and such. i mean, how long have these fans been out?


Excellent observation. I think they would sell a lot more fans if they would just change the colour.

Personally, I'm happy with my Scythe Slipstream 120CFM 1900 RPM PWM fans. Personally, I think most fans are fine if they are good for performance. If you use PWM, they are not going to be running 100% all the time anyway.


----------



## rickyman0319

I have H80i with i7 4770k cpu. I have Sp120 HP (non-PWM) fans with it. how do I control the fan speed of those fan? what software I can do it? Right now, the fan is almost 12v.how can I undervolt the fan?

ty


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Below is why I was asking for details, because I really like the "Looks" of the eLoops but at $5 more than the GT AP-15's it's hard to recommend them over the GT's. But I "might" recommend them over the over-rated especially concerning price(?) Noctua's F12 if we get some more real world feedback with details. I'm also assuming you have the B12-3 1900rpm eLoops not the B12-4 2400rpm's ? Without more specific details to your overclocks/operating tests/conditions, and after reading Martin's review I find it hard to honestly believe the eLoops are ...
> 
> *"orders of magnitude quieter than the stock fans".*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They may be "slightly" better for you in your setup, but I also highly value Martin's reviews and have so for quite some time now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reading in detail for the 2nd time Martin's Fan Testing Round 12 *[HERE]* combine this with all the real world user feedback @ OCN (+my own experience) and I'm going to stick with my original recommendation of the GT AP-15's as the only real significantly improved upgrade over the Corsair Stock fans for noise improvement with the H100/i for a well ventilated case, @ moderate/high OC's (Intel 4.4-4.6), with average ambients (appx 22c) and average fan speeds of appx 1800rpm. AND for those with higher/hotter OC's and conditions the Gentle Typhoon AP-45 2150RPM are looking really promising for "noise" improvement in those conditions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Martin does like the noise "Tone" of the eLoops but from his video's and statistics he doesn't see much difference in performance and noise levels between the Corsair SP120 HP vs the 2x's more expensive Noiseblocker E-Loop B12-3 1900RPM @ THE SAME OPERATING RPM's! ... I know the stock H100i fans are slightly different than the SP120 HP's but if you match the RPM's I doubt you'll see much difference noise wise, and they will outperform them at higher overclocks/rpm's if noise isn't a concern during benching or 5.1 sound gaming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I HIGHLY RECOMMEND everyone read "In Detail" Martin's review above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Some Quote's from Martin's review ...*
> 
> @600FPM air flow levels
> *[Most common for high quality static pressure fans operating @1800-2000rpm's ...
> The eLoop B12-3 1900rpm only make it to 560FPM but still is OK for moderate overclocks ]
> 
> _•The two GT fans continue to have legs to get to this point and at their trademark low noise levels although not what I would call great noise quality. There is a rather dominating bearing noise without much air noise to mask it. Regardless, it is hard to argue with the low 46dBA noise level at these speeds.
> •The Corsair SP120 would take second lowest noise level at this point with about 54dBA. It is considerably higher than the GTs, but still seems to be in it's game without any unusual noise quality issues, fairly smooth for the speed.
> •The B12-4 higher speed Noiseblocker E-loop also makes it this far, but noise quality dramatically reduces with a higher whine developing. Noise level is a similar 54dBA, but it sounds louder than that by ear.
> •The Piranha also has legs to get here, but it's the loudest of the bunch at 58dBA and also has some noise quality issues with an undulating low frequency and some motor tick.
> •The Noctua and Cougar fans are not capable of this much air flow.
> 
> BEST FAN 600FPM & 700FPM (>1500 RPM)
> 
> While the noise blocker is really nice at slower speeds, the Gentle Typhoon rules the high speed area. I wouldn't call either one silent or perfect in noise quality, they do produce a different tone which seems slightly more whiny with bearing noise than others, but the noise level is remarkably low in comparison. *The Corsair SP120 is actually not too bad at higher speeds as well,* but it does have a slightly lower maximum where the GT AP-45 is doing just a bit better.
> 
> King of "BEST NOISE LEVEL/AIR FLOW THROUGH A RADIATOR"
> 
> The Gentle Typhoons retain their crown on this criteria and really shine at very high speeds, but that differentiation does drop off as speed decrease. The Noiseblockers e-loops also have an interesting noise quality and perform really well at speeds below about 1500RPM. At the 400FPM and 500FPM performance levels by ear I have a hard time telling the difference between the GTs and the Noiseblocker B12-3. The smoother noise quality of the Noiseblocker almost seems to make up the difference in noise level. *The Corsair SP120 also does fairly well on noise level and consistently so throughout it's speed range*, it's just not as smooth in noise quality as the NBs are at slower speeds, but it does hold it's up at higher speeds. None are even close to the GTs at really high speeds though where the GTs have upwards of a 10dbA noise level advantage.
> *DITTO!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... see above_


I never said GTs weren't better. I said if you want performance AND looks (or something like that) eloops are the way to go. They ARE quieter than the sp120s (both the sp120l stock and sp120s), and they DO perform just as silently as the GTs up to 1500rpm (which is as high as I normally want my fans to go personally). They are NOT for:

High RPM (excess of 1500rpm) scenarios
Push Pull configs (without a shroud)
Budget builds

But if you want something that performs better than just about anything save the GTs and actually looks decent/sleeved/removable cables, eloops are fantastic.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I have H80i with i7 4770k cpu. I have Sp120 HP (non-PWM) fans with it. how do I control the fan speed of those fan? what software I can do it? Right now, the fan is almost 12v.how can I undervolt the fan?
> 
> ty


Are you letting the H80i block control your fans? Even with the non PWM I could still lower the RPM of mine (I don't though because they're quiets) otherwise there is a 7v adapter that comes with the fans that drops the power to them for you.


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Are you letting the H80i block control your fans? Even with the non PWM I could still lower the RPM of mine (I don't though because they're quiets) otherwise there is a 7v adapter that comes with the fans that drops the power to them for you.


how quiet is 7v on the fan?

I am thinking to change the fan to Noctra F12. Will you think that is better than SP12 w/ adapter or not?


----------



## kizwan

I'd choose Enermax Magma 1500RPM over Noctua NF-F12.

http://www.anandtech.com/print/6391





I agree with *TomcatV* regarding real world review. [There supposed to be wall of text here but I'm very lazy & *TomcatV* already cover everything.] *@TomcatV*, I've always find your posts very interesting to read, each one of them.


----------



## CannedBullets

So how affected is the CPU socket temp by the core temp of the CPU? I'm on an H80i right now but would it be worth it to upgrade to a Corsair H100i? I'm looking to replace my case right now with a Corsair C70 because my current case has an annoying vibration issue with the front panel when I have something plugged in the front panel ports and there's already a faint but slightly noticeable vibrating hum with my case also.


----------



## XC99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So how affected is the CPU socket temp by the core temp of the CPU? I'm on an H80i right now but would it be worth it to upgrade to a Corsair H100i? I'm looking to replace my case right now with a Corsair C70 because my current case has an annoying vibration issue with the front panel when I have something plugged in the front panel ports and there's already a faint but slightly noticeable vibrating hum with my case also.


H80i has double the width of the H100i making it more airflow restrictive requiring fans to run at higher RPMs in order to perform the same as an H100i would at lower fan RPMs.


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I'd choose Enermax Magma 1500RPM over Noctua NF-F12.
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/print/6391
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I agree with *TomcatV* regarding real world review. [There supposed to be wall of text here but I'm very lazy & *TomcatV* already cover everything.] *@TomcatV*, I've always find your posts very interesting to read, each one of them.


Why is enermax fan better than F12?

it seems to me, they both like 1 or 2 degress and dba apart from each other?


----------



## rickyman0319

i am wondering which way is the best to control the fans speed for H80i?

one: one way is connect both or one fan into pump

or

2nd: connect both or one fan into the motherboard fan connector.


----------



## XC99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> i am wondering which way is the best to control the fans speed for H80i?
> 
> one: one way is connect both or one fan into pump
> 
> or
> 
> 2nd: connect both or one fan into the motherboard fan connector.


For my H100i i found it easier to connect them to the pump and control them with corsair link than the motherboard (i got sabertooth 990fx r2) because it does not support asus fan xpert and i couldnt find any other decent software.


----------



## rickyman0319

(asus grypton) motherboard support both fan xpert or corsair link. I don't know what shall I do?

connect to the pump or just connect to the fan header on mb.


----------



## XC99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> (asus grypton) motherboard support both fan xpert or corsair link. I don't know what shall I do?
> 
> connect to the pump or just connect to the fan header on mb.


Well, you could try both. Connect to pump, check for noises or w/e, check if you like the corsair link software etc, if its all k leave it as it is. If not try fan xpert w/ mb headers.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So how affected is the CPU socket temp by the core temp of the CPU? I'm on an H80i right now but would it be worth it to upgrade to a Corsair H100i? I'm looking to replace my case right now with a Corsair C70 because my current case has an annoying vibration issue with the front panel when I have something plugged in the front panel ports and there's already a faint but slightly noticeable vibrating hum with my case also.


I am using an H100i to cool an overclocked i5 4670K to 4.7 GHz and it keeps temps nice and low. Although stress testing can get a bit nerve racking while using Linpack, depending on your voltage. But I don't know that there is a huge difference between the two. I have noticed similar temps reported by H80 users in the Haswell Owners Forum. One thing I know for sure is that these closed loop coolers hit an eventual cooling wall no matter the airflow (amount or speed of fans). So my guess would be that the H100i will offer slightly better temps, but nothing extraordinary. If you want to really increase your cooling potential you'll have to either delid your processor or create a custom cooling loop with a larger rad or reservoir.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> I am using an H100i to cool an overclocked i5 4670K to 4.7 GHz and it keeps temps nice and low. Although stress testing can get a bit nerve racking while using Linpack, depending on your voltage. But I don't know that there is a huge difference between the two. I have noticed similar temps reported by H80 users in the Haswell Owners Forum. One thing I know for sure is that these closed loop coolers hit an eventual cooling wall no matter the airflow (amount or speed of fans). So my guess would be that the H100i will offer slightly better temps, but nothing extraordinary. If you want to really increase your cooling potential you'll have to either delid your processor or create a custom cooling loop with a larger rad or reservoir.


Well I don't need to delid because I'm on an AMD CPU.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> I never said GTs weren't better. I said if you want performance AND looks (or something like that) eloops are the way to go. They ARE quieter than the sp120s (both the sp120l stock and sp120s), and they DO perform just as silently as the GTs up to 1500rpm (which is as high as I normally want my fans to go personally). They are NOT for:
> 
> High RPM (excess of 1500rpm) scenarios
> Push Pull configs (without a shroud)
> Budget builds
> 
> But if you want something that performs better than just about anything save the GTs and actually looks decent/sleeved/removable cables, eloops are fantastic.


Well said







... and if your only moderately overclocking (???) and are married to <1500rpm, I think you found a viable substitute for the Noctua F12, lower rpm category. Getting details from your setup has definitely hampered our conversation, but I still think you made a fine choice giving your situation








Also what some fail to understand, not necessarily applicable in your situation, is the cheaper construction (aluminum) rads of AIO coolers usually require higher rpm/SP fans to "maximize" their performance unlike most of the higher quality copper rads you'll find in custom loop setups.
The more details presented just enhances the quality of information shared and helps everyone make informed choices, which is why most of us are here in the 1st place









Speaking strictly from economics if someone where to spend an additional $50 for replacement fans on a H100/i ... I'd be "tempted?" to recommend they just go with the Swiftech H220 ...








Sacrilege I know









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I'd choose Enermax Magma 1500RPM over Noctua NF-F12.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/print/6391
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I agree with *TomcatV* regarding real world review. [There supposed to be wall of text here but I'm very lazy & *TomcatV* already cover everything.] *@TomcatV*, I've always find your posts very interesting to read, each one of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am thinking to change the fan to Noctra F12. Will you think that is better than SP12 w/ adapter or not?
> 
> Why is enermax fan better than F12?
> it seems to me, they both like 1 or 2 degress and dba apart from each other?
Click to expand...

Thanks! ... I know how you feel







... Sometimes it's pretty challenging getting your points/advise across in a useful way without writing PAGES of information. And it becomes doubly challenging when statistics/details are missing









I forgot about the Enermax Magma's, their sharp looking have a good rep, and are a lot less expensive than the F12's, even $6 less than the eLoops with appx same SP stats/rpm, And it's always a good sign when they are "sold out" @ Newegg







But you can find them *[HERE]*

@ Rickyman / Then again the Magma's are about the same price as the GT AP-15's







...
BUT honestly once you figure out the best way to control your fans for your setup, and ramp them down to appx 1500rpm I think you'll be quite pleased you saved $35-$50.








But if you insist on replacing them and are trying to decide between the Corsair or Noctua's, I'd take the SP120 quiets over the F12's. There is plenty of good user feedback backing up that recommendation for price #1, you can get the Corsair quiets in a 2 fan pack for about the same price as a single F12 *[see HERE]* ... and looks #2







... one way or another Noctua will learn if they are going to charge $27/fan they better at least start offering some diversity in their color schemes








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> I am using an H100i to cool an overclocked i5 4670K to 4.7 GHz and it keeps temps nice and low. Although stress testing can get a bit nerve racking while using Linpack, depending on your voltage. But I don't know that there is a huge difference between the two. I have noticed similar temps reported by H80 users in the Haswell Owners Forum. One thing I know for sure is that these closed loop coolers hit an eventual cooling wall no matter the airflow (amount or speed of fans). So my guess would be that the H100i will offer slightly better temps, but nothing extraordinary. If you want to really increase your cooling potential you'll have to either delid your processor or create a custom cooling loop with a larger rad or reservoir.


Well said








But I don't think he will gain much de-liding an FX chip compared with the sometimes dramatic improvement as seen with Ivy Bridge and Haswell. @ Cannedbullets quit worrying so much about your "socket" temps as compared to your "core" temps








Edit: ooops "Canned" knowledge already "consumed" in above post







LoL


----------



## rickyman0319

I bought Sp120 QE fan. both of my fans are inside the front fan slot so the hd and case will cold. since I already bought SP120 PE edtion and put it on H80, the fan go up to full speed and it is like airplane loud. that is why I am changing.

I want to change it to quiet pc on my htpc case. I know u recommend me to buy quiet edtion again. but if I oced the cpu ( i7 4770k) , it will be really hot. so I don't want to put QE again with the H80.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Well said
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and if your only moderately overclocking (???) and are married to <1500rpm, I think you found a viable substitute for the Noctua F12, lower rpm category. Getting details from your setup has definitely hampered our conversation, but I still think you made a fine choice giving your situation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also what some fail to understand, not necessarily applicable in your situation, is the cheaper construction (aluminum) rads of AIO coolers usually require higher rpm/SP fans to "maximize" their performance unlike most of the higher quality copper rads you'll find in custom loop setups.
> The more details presented just enhances the quality of information shared and helps everyone make informed choices, which is why most of us are here in the 1st place
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking strictly from economics if someone where to spend an additional $50 for replacement fans on a H100/i ... I'd be "tempted?" to recommend they just go with the Swiftech H220 ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sacrilege I know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! ... I know how you feel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Sometimes it's pretty challenging getting your points/advise across in a useful way without writing PAGES of information. And it becomes doubly challenging when statistics/details are missing


I think you overestimate the effect of having high rpm fans or push pull setups on slim radiators. The h100i is a low FPI (fins per inch) radiator. Low fpi radiators do NOT require huge amounts of static pressure or rpms because there is not a lot of resistance to flow through the radiator due to the fewer fin count vs something like an alphacool ut60, which is considerably thicker and denser in fpi. Just to give you an idea:


Quote:


> We used three of the pre-set settings in the Corsair Link software, quiet, balanced and performance. As with the H100 the fans were very loud when running at the performance setting, but kept the 3770k well under control in regards to temperatures. Changing the setting to balanced didn't see a massive difference in temperature over the performance setting; the fans were running slightly quieter but still too loud for my liking. For our last test we used the quiet setting in the Corsair Link software, here we saw an increase in temperature but only by 3°c. This time the fans rpm was a lot less and ran to a more acceptable noise level, just the way I like them to run!


That said, eloops are by NO means weak fans in static pressure.

Also, I'm not moderately overclocking with my setup, I was at 4.8ghz for a long time, but have since dropped it to 4.6ghz (not a result of fan changes or anything, just would rather not put more degradation on my cpu). At both OCs with the eloops i stay under 85C.

As for the economic standpoint, people buying CLCs have already thrown the budget thought out the window, as cheaper air coolers perform on par with the h100i and most other CLCs. When you're buying a CLC, you're buying it more for aesthetics and cool factor than you are for cooling potential over air. The H220 I personally do not like at all; I think it's hideous, the inlet/outlet on either side of the block runs into ram clearance issues on certain builds (for example AMD builds it does block ram slots for anything save LP ram), and I think the pump is inadequate should you decide to properly expand your loop (which is the big selling point of the h220). Anyway, blatantly obvious rig show off photo:


----------



## rickyman0319

so what kinds of fan do you guys recommend me to buy for h80?


----------



## Tugz

Corsair Hydro FTW!


----------



## delavan

Alright folks,

I'm going for a HASWELL build. After reading about the cooling situation when OC is part of the equation, I ordered a H100i. I'll post on my impressions when everything is running...

Thanks in advance!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> I think you overestimate the effect of having high rpm fans or push pull setups on slim radiators. The h100i is a low FPI (fins per inch) radiator. Low fpi radiators do NOT require huge amounts of static pressure or rpms because there is not a lot of resistance to flow through the radiator due to the fewer fin count vs something like an alphacool ut60, which is considerably thicker and denser in fpi. Just to give you an idea:


Looking at H100i radiator, it definitely not low FPI radiator. The Alphacool UT60 radiators (e.g. *[360mm radiator]*) are in fact low FPI radiators which are designed for low RPM fans. The picture above basically show the stock fans are high quality static pressure fans. Push/pull doesn't increase CFM overall. So, the result is not good material to proved higher RPM or higher static pressure fans don't have any positive effect on thermal performance. With high quality static pressure fans, you don't need to run them at high or full RPM to get excellent thermal performance. High static pressure fans doesn't necessarily means they are high quality static pressure fans. *[Cougar Vortex PWM vs. Gentle Typhoon AP-15]* test show even though the AP-15 has slightly lower static pressure than the Cougar Vortex, it outperform Cougar Vortex fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Also, I'm not moderately overclocking with my setup, I was at 4.8ghz for a long time, but have since dropped it to 4.6ghz (not a result of fan changes or anything, just would rather not put more degradation on my cpu). At both OCs with the eloops i stay under 85C.


What is your ambient temp? I read IVY Bridge CPUs are resilient to degradation than SB/SB-E. I'm wondering how much Vcore needed for 4.8GHz? What is load temp for both? As for temp, as long as the temps within the Intel specification (TJmax 105C), the CPU will live a long, healthy life.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I have H80i with i7 4770k cpu. I have Sp120 HP (non-PWM) fans with it. how do I control the fan speed of those fan? what software I can do it? Right now, the fan is almost 12v.how can I undervolt the fan?
> 
> ty


If you complain to Corsair about noisy 3-pin fans that don't work right, they will cover your butt (as in you will end up with the newer PWM fans). I don't know if they will ask for you to return the entire cooler, or just the old fans, or if they will just send you new fans. Ask them and see what they say.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> how quiet is 7v on the fan?
> 
> I am thinking to change the fan to Noctra F12. Will you think that is better than SP12 w/ adapter or not?


The Noctua fans are PWM and will work way better, if you can stomach the colour.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So how affected is the CPU socket temp by the core temp of the CPU? I'm on an H80i right now but would it be worth it to upgrade to a Corsair H100i? I'm looking to replace my case right now with a Corsair C70 because my current case has an annoying vibration issue with the front panel when I have something plugged in the front panel ports and there's already a faint but slightly noticeable vibrating hum with my case also.


The H100i will be about 5c or a little less better than the H80i. The H80 uses a thicker rad to make up a bit for the larger H100 rad, but since it's thicker is uses two fans in push/pull which the H100 doesn't need because it's much thinner. I recommend using whichever fits in your case better.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> i am wondering which way is the best to control the fans speed for H80i?
> 
> one: one way is connect both or one fan into pump
> 
> or
> 
> 2nd: connect both or one fan into the motherboard fan connector.


If your version has three pin fans, use the block and the link software (if you can get it to work well). If you have the version that comes with 4-pin PWM fans, and if you have two CPU_FAN headers on your motherboard, then use the motherboard since it will work better than the block at controlling PWM fans. If you only have one CPU_FAN header, purchase a PWM splitter and plug both fans into your CPU_FAN header (and plug the tac line from the H80 block into an accessory or power fan header).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> so what kinds of fan do you guys recommend me to buy for h80?


We see this question at least once a week, sometimes more. Go back 30 pages and read and you will find your answer. (or at least you will read the debates).


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> I think you overestimate the effect of having high rpm fans or push pull setups on slim radiators. The h100i is a low FPI (fins per inch) radiator. Low fpi radiators do NOT require huge amounts of static pressure or rpms because there is not a lot of resistance to flow through the radiator due to the fewer fin count vs something like an alphacool ut60, which is considerably thicker and denser in fpi. Just to give you an idea:
> 
> 
> 
> That said, eloops are by NO means weak fans in static pressure.
> 
> Also, I'm not moderately overclocking with my setup, I was at 4.8ghz for a long time, but have since dropped it to 4.6ghz (not a result of fan changes or anything, just would rather not put more degradation on my cpu). At both OCs with the eloops i stay under 85C.
> 
> As for the economic standpoint, people buying CLCs have already thrown the budget thought out the window, as cheaper air coolers perform on par with the h100i and most other CLCs. When you're buying a CLC, you're buying it more for aesthetics and cool factor than you are for cooling potential over air. The H220 I personally do not like at all; I think it's hideous, the inlet/outlet on either side of the block runs into ram clearance issues on certain builds (for example AMD builds it does block ram slots for anything save LP ram), and I think the pump is inadequate should you decide to properly expand your loop (which is the big selling point of the h220).
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Looking at H100i radiator, it definitely not low FPI radiator. The Alphacool UT60 radiators (e.g. *[360mm radiator]*) are in fact low FPI radiators which are designed for low RPM fans. The picture above basically show the stock fans are high quality static pressure fans. Push/pull doesn't increase CFM overall. So, the result is not good material to proved higher RPM or higher static pressure fans don't have any positive effect on thermal performance. With high quality static pressure fans, you don't need to run them at high or full RPM to get excellent thermal performance. High static pressure fans doesn't necessarily means they are high quality static pressure fans. *[Cougar Vortex PWM vs. Gentle Typhoon AP-15]* test show even though the AP-15 has slightly lower static pressure than the Cougar Vortex, it outperform Cougar Vortex fans.
> What is your ambient temp? I read IVY Bridge CPUs are resilient to degradation than SB/SB-E. I'm wondering how much Vcore needed for 4.8GHz? What is load temp for both? As for temp, as long as the temps within the Intel specification (TJmax 105C), the CPU will live a long, healthy life.
Click to expand...









As you slowly come forth with pertinent information, I think you'll find we are all on the same page much more than you realize









*Kizwan as usual has covered some important points also*







R ...
so I'll try and be brief









Nice graph! Backs up what many of us have been saying all along. Care to share where it came from? I've seen it before ... Anandtech maybe? BUT the graph shows what I consider a "moderate" OC w/slightly above average vcore.

IMHO, if I had to draw a line somewhere for the 2nd/3rd and 4th gen Intel processors ...
<4.8GHz=moderate OC and >4.8GHz=High OC? ... some would even draw it at 5.0GHz ... some 4.6Ghz
What the graph doesn't show is that when you clock closer to 5.0GHz(+) the higher rpm/SP fans including stock Corsair fans, just flat out perform the lower rpm/quieter fans by as much as 4c-5c+ from low (appx 1300rpm) to high (2500rpm) fan settings at full load for many of us including myself. AND for many of us this is important because we like benching and/or want to run the raged edge on encoding for shorter periods of time. "Setup" is also an important factor, which is what this forum is all about!

THIS also exposes AIO's for what they are ... and that is AIO's are no substitute for a *Custom Loop* ...
So for the truly informed, your argument for the "Coolness Factor" (pun intended) is ... well ... sad? ... silly?







trying NOT to be offensive here as I think you agree? ... I'll be brief, but this leads to my disagreement with you on the H220. It is constructed with superior materials to most other AIO's ... and for the uninformed or possibly newer enthusiasts that don't fully understand the limits of AIO's and purchased one as an enthusiasts watercooling solution and/or were afraid to jump right into "Custom Loops", and found their 5,0GHz clocks were running to hot (85c loads) for extended work periods or even 24/7 operation ... they have options to add another radiator/reservoir/or even a single GPU block (probably not SLI? in your case with the Titans) to increase cooling capacity. The H220 pump/block is much more capable than you elude to above.









And for the "informed" most of us purchased an AIO for mostly *convenience* /performance secondary! For me easy access to my ram/cpu/ and motherboard is vital for testing different CPU's and/or ram configs for OC'ing. Personally I've owned the NH-D14 and for $10 more and easy access to vital components, along with a slight performance boost, 2c-3c with higher moderate clocks, AND an overall cooler running case including the GPU(s) and motherboard ...
IT WAS A NO BRAINER easy decision







...

I also like your eLoops for your setup







...
But just as Kizwan said, it would have been nice to see a load temp screenie, with ambients etc









AND lastly that is a very fine build you have there ... love the Titans









Bit of overkill for a single 1440? but your ready for triple highres 24-27's or more? in the future









EDIT @ Kizwan ... where did you read about vCore/Heat degradation SB vs IB ...
I've heard rumors but would like to study it more








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delavan*
> 
> Alright folks,
> 
> I'm going for a HASWELL build. After reading about the cooling situation when OC is part of the equation, I ordered a H100i. I'll post on my impressions when everything is running...
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Looking forward to it, haven't had to many Haswells in here yet. When you post take a look *[HERE]* for some helpful guidelines so we may avoid some of the confusion that occurred above








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tugz*
> 
> Corsair Hydro FTW!


Very nice! Care to tell us more about your setup (Top intake or exhaust? push or pull config?, overclocks, load temps/ambients and what you think of what looks like the stock fans for the H100i in your setup/application









EDIT @ Kizwan ... where did you read about vCore/Heat degradation SB vs IB ... I've heard rumors but would like to study it more


----------



## rickyman0319

I have cpu header and cpu opt header on my motherboard. my motherboard is Asus Gypron. I think I match the fan color.


----------



## HesterDW

H70 wrapped in primochill tubing!


----------



## rickyman0319

I am curious how much watts (TDP) will H80,8100I support?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am curious how much watts (TDP) will H80,8100I support?


Dont know the specifics, and can't find them by googling, but it supports at least an AMD FX 8120 at 125W TDP. Plus an overclock of 1.4Ghz from stock 3.1Ghz


----------



## delavan

How bad are the stock fans on the H100i? I ordered the cooler last night.

I have a few spare Noctua NF-S12B-FLX fans laying around. Those aren't the best for static pressure, they are 3 pins fans that are quiet. Should I keep the stock corsair fans, swap for my Noctuas, or use the Noctuas for push-pull?
I'll mount the rad on top of my ATCS 840 case on a custom bracket, right underneath my two 240mm exhaust fans...

Overkill? Useless?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delavan*
> 
> How bad are the stock fans on the H100i? I ordered the cooler last night.
> 
> I have a few spare Noctua NF-S12B-FLX fans laying around. Those aren't the best for static pressure, they are 3 pins fans that are quiet. Should I keep the stock corsair fans, swap for my Noctuas, or use the Noctuas for push-pull?
> I'll mount the rad on top of my ATCS 840 case on a custom bracket, right underneath my two 240mm exhaust fans...
> 
> Overkill? Useless?


The stock fans get very loud, that's their biggest downfall. I have heard though, that the H100i come with the SP model fans? Which are better quality than what my H100 came with. They are fairly good though, it just depends how diehard about fan performance the person is you are talking to.

If the stock fans are the SP120's whichever model, they should be just fine in push or pull in the scenario you described. You shouldnt need those noctuas unless you find the volume of the stock fans to be too loud for your preferences.


----------



## rickyman0319

what is the difference between H50, H55 and H60 cooler?


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what is the difference between H50, H55 and H60 cooler?


http://lmgtfy.com/?q=H50+vs+H55+vs+H60

On top of that, you could google the spec of H50, H55, and H60 and compare.


----------



## MrSharkington

Hi everyone, are these the right cougar fans for the h100i? http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_1381&products_id=20161


----------



## waslakhani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> Hi everyone, are these the right cougar fans for the h100i? http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_1381&products_id=20161


Yes sir.


----------



## MrSharkington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waslakhani*
> 
> Yes sir.


Thanks







just a noob question, since these are 3 pin connectors and i won't be able to adjust the fan rpm via corsairs software, will they just run at full rpm?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> EDIT @ Kizwan ... where did you read about vCore/Heat degradation SB vs IB ... I've heard rumors but would like to study it more


I found the information in *[**Ivy Bridge Overclocking Guide**]*. Search for *"degradation"*. You also might want to read *[i73770K Degradation experiment]* thread too. I have not read all the posts in that thread yet though.

I ran my SB-E at >1.5V (@5.0GHz) for a day or two. Fortunately just for a short time & I have not yet noticed any degradation. So far I found my SB-E should be fine if the voltage below 1.5V. My 24/7 OC is @4.8GHz (1.408 - 1.416 when lightly loaded & 1.456 - 1.472V when CPU fully loaded). Ivy Bridge resilient to degradation is very interesting. With it dellided, temps not bad compared to SB & SB-E. So far, you can kill SB-E if Vcore is 1.7V or higher. My SB-E is still fine at 1.688V (@5.2GHz while running quick IBT Very High stress test).







For Ivy, according to the guide, you can kill the CPU if Vcore is above 1.6V on air/water & 2.0V on LN2.


----------



## waslakhani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just a noob question, since these are 3 pin connectors and i won't be able to adjust the fan rpm via corsairs software, will they just run at full rpm?


Actually you will be able to control the speed because it is done by percentage and IIRC the 4th pin is for pwm which is to save some energy.


----------



## luckymatt

First trip into watercooling for me, just now finishing my Haswell build with an H110, looks like a great unit, very well built EXCEPT--

The base of the waterblock. Those milling ridges, and the fact that it is ever so slightly convex.

Has anyone lapped this thing? Can you lap it as is fully assembled or would you have to unscrew the actual copper plate?


----------



## EniGma1987

Im pretty much a n00b when it comes to water cooling but I own an H100 and am wondering, why are we not able to extend the cooling system and add in another radiator or whatever to the Corsair units but we can with the swiftech one? What is different that we just cant do it with Corsair or other brand units?


----------



## rickyman0319

if u r using F12 fans for Corsair Hydro Series cooler, do u use LNA adapter or just run as it is? That mean run with the 4 pin w/o adapter and connect to pump.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I have cpu header and cpu opt header on my motherboard. my motherboard is Asus Gypron. I think I match the fan color.


That's great. This means that both of those fan ports will be controlled by your CPU temperature, so the fans connected to it will run basically the same RPM.
You should be able to use any 4-pin PWM fans on your motherboard. I'm doing that right now on my H100 and I love it. The fans I have run between 400 and 500 RPM during idle, and slowly ramp up to the full 1900 RPM during loading. Needless to say, until the fans get up to about 1400rpm, I can't hear them at all, and when there is a heavy load (usually gaming) the video card fans easily drown out the cpu cooler fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> The stock fans get very loud, that's their biggest downfall. I have heard though, that the H100i come with the SP model fans? Which are better quality than what my H100 came with. They are fairly good though, it just depends how diehard about fan performance the person is you are talking to.
> 
> If the stock fans are the SP120's whichever model, they should be just fine in push or pull in the scenario you described. You shouldnt need those noctuas unless you find the volume of the stock fans to be too loud for your preferences.


The original H100 fans are much better than the new stock fans for performance, but are louder. The original fans have a much higher static pressure. If you're looking for pure performance, the original fans are better. If you're looking for quieter operation, the newer fans are better.

The original fans for the first H100 had 7.7 mmH2O, which is quite awesome. If they were PWM, I would still be using them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just a noob question, since these are 3 pin connectors and i won't be able to adjust the fan rpm via corsairs software, will they just run at full rpm?


Some 3-pin fans seem to work fine with the Corsair block, while others don't. I think you will just have to give them a try and see what happens. Personally, I would recommend holding out for some PWM fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luckymatt*
> 
> First trip into watercooling for me, just now finishing my Haswell build with an H110, looks like a great unit, very well built EXCEPT--
> 
> The base of the waterblock. Those milling ridges, and the fact that it is ever so slightly convex.
> 
> Has anyone lapped this thing? Can you lap it as is fully assembled or would you have to unscrew the actual copper plate?


Others earlier in the thread have lapped Corsair AIO blocks. You can leave it connected, just be careful about flexing the hoses.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> if u r using F12 fans for Corsair Hydro Series cooler, do u use LNA adapter or just run as it is? That mean run with the 4 pin w/o adapter and connect to pump.


That would really be a personal choice. You'll have to try it and see if you prefer those fans with or without the LNA. If they're PWM though, I doubt you'll need it, especially if you're using the Link software which should allow you to change the speed of the fans without using the LNA.


----------



## CannedBullets

I'm going to upgrade from an H80i to an H100i because I'm getting a case which can support it (Corsair C70). Will i have to uninstall CorsairLink and this other Corsair program in the programs list and my profiles for my H80i or should it automatically recognize the H100i?


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> I'm going to upgrade from an H80i to an H100i because I'm getting a case which can support it (Corsair C70). Will i have to uninstall CorsairLink and this other Corsair program in the programs list and my profiles for my H80i or should it automatically recognize the H100i?


I would uninstall completely and start over. They have special software for the H100i and I doubt it will keep the profiles.

B the way the C70 is an awesome gaming rig. You will love it.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I would uninstall completely and start over. They have special software for the H100i and I doubt it will keep the profiles.
> 
> B the way the C70 is an awesome gaming rig. You will love it.


Yeah looking forward to the C70. I'm going to add five Noctuas to it for ventilation along with the Noctua NF-F12s on the H100i. So should I delete the Corsair Link Profiles?


----------



## Miss Roxy

Uninstall and delete everything... including the profile.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Uninstall and delete everything... including the profile.


Yeah should I set the H80i to its default settings before I uninstall everything?


----------



## Dr Slaughter

Hey Folks, did someone else here done a custom mod on one of the Hydro series of Corsair? Im just interested, i might mod my H60 2013


----------



## XC99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Yeah should I set the H80i to its default settings before I uninstall everything?


Since the pump runs on w/e RPM it decides by itself, it wouldnt matter.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Slaughter*
> 
> Hey Folks, did someone else here done a custom mod on one of the Hydro series of Corsair? Im just interested, i might mod my H60 2013


I plan to remove the stock corrugated tubing of my H100 at some point and replace it with tubing that matches my Antec 620s.


----------



## CannedBullets

So I get that I have to clear the profiles and uninstall CorsairLink when I switch to an H100i from an H80i. But do I have to use this thing called "Corsair USB Dongle (Driver Removal)" when I'm doing that? Yeah that USB Dongle thing is in the Programs and Features list in the Control Panel.

Also, does anyone know the location for the Corsair Link profiles?


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I plan to remove the stock corrugated tubing of my H100 at some point and replace it with tubing that matches my Antec 620s.


If tubing can be replaced, and someone else said they replaced the liquid inside with higher grade stuff, is it not then possible to simply add a 2nd radiator into the cooling loop just like you could do with the Swiftech system?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> If tubing can be replaced, and someone else said they replaced the liquid inside with higher grade stuff, is it not then possible to simply add a 2nd radiator into the cooling loop just like you could do with the Swiftech system?


if the pump were strong enough, yes. But I believe that is why its not often attempted. The pumps are not strong enough.


----------



## waslakhani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> if the pump were strong enough, yes. But I believe that is why its not often attempted. The pumps are not strong enough.


You could possibly put two pumps in series and run a gpu and CPU loop.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waslakhani*
> 
> You could possibly put two pumps in series and run a gpu and CPU loop.


if you put a real pump in the loop with a corsair pump, you will, not might but WILL, blow the corsair pump. it has a pitiful flow rate and the pressure is laughable.
h100 price roughly $100. real water cooling pump just under $100. put 2 and 2 together and you can understand why corsair sells them so cheap.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Pumps don't care if another pump is connected. It is the massive restriction of the water block that is a big problem. Even a proper full size water pump would not be able to push much more than half a GPM through the CPU block by itself, let alone the rest of the system as well.

The H series is designed for very low flow rates so mixing it with other watercooling parts designed for much higher flow rates would not give very good results at all.


----------



## Darc

Finally installed my Corsair h60i - which was a real hassle. I had to mount the radiator horizontally in order for it to clear the built in WiFi module on the motherboard. Here is where the problem lies, however, the h60i is the only thing in my rig that is cooling because my motherboard does not support multiple fans. I've ensured that I installed everything correctly, although, I am curious as to whether or not I should have the h60i fan as an intake or exhaust since it is the only fan in my case?

I'm running at 44 idle currently, but my ambient temperature is above average.

Any suggestions?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darc*
> 
> Finally installed my Corsair h60i - which was a real hassle. I had to mount the radiator horizontally in order for it to clear the built in WiFi module on the motherboard. Here is where the problem lies, however, the h60i is the only thing in my rig that is cooling because my motherboard does not support multiple fans. I've ensured that I installed everything correctly, although, I am curious as to whether or not I should have the h60i fan as an intake or exhaust since it is the only fan in my case?
> 
> I'm running at 44 idle currently, but my ambient temperature is above average.
> 
> Any suggestions?


If it is installed at the rear fan, place it as exhaust. The difference in temps from intake to exhaust wouldbe 1-2C at best.

As for not being able to plug fans in to the motherboard, you can order one of these for cheap - http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g47/c121/s424/list/p1/Fan_Accessories-Fan_Accessories-Multi_Fan_Ports-Page1.html


----------



## Darc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> If it is installed at the rear fan, place it as exhaust. The difference in temps from intake to exhaust wouldbe 1-2C at best.
> 
> As for not being able to plug fans in to the motherboard, you can order one of these for cheap - http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g47/c121/s424/list/p1/Fan_Accessories-Fan_Accessories-Multi_Fan_Ports-Page1.html


Thanks for the information.

I want to set a 230mm fan at the front as an intake and keep the h60 as an exhuast - should I place another fan over head?

Is there a particular port that I should get for such a setup?


----------



## rickyman0319

where to buy AP-15 fan? what fans has similar performace as AP-15 but little bit cheaper?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darc*
> 
> Thanks for the information.
> 
> I want to set a 230mm fan at the front as an intake and keep the h60 as an exhuast - should I place another fan over head?
> 
> Is there a particular port that I should get for such a setup?


Would need to know what case you have and what size fans you have room for.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> where to buy AP-15 fan? what fans has similar performace as AP-15 but little bit cheaper?


Google works wonders for questions like these...


----------



## Darc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Would need to know what case you have and what size fans you have room for.


Bitfenix Prodigy which has two 120mm top fan emplacements available, and the front can fit up to 230mm. I've looked around a bit, but did not get any clear information on this particular set up with a h60i exhuast at the rear. Hoping to drop temps, at least, into the 30 range as I idle quite high at stock clocks, and reach right around 67c while gaming.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darc*
> 
> Bitfenix Prodigy which has two 120mm top fan emplacements available, and the front can fit up to 230mm. I've looked around a bit, but did not get any clear information on this particular set up with a h60i exhuast at the rear. Hoping to drop temps, at least, into the 30 range as I idle quite high at stock clocks, and reach right around 67c while gaming.


That would lead me to believe that a reapplication of thermal paste would help. IS this temperature on a stock clock, or overclock?

You could place the H60 either at the rear exhaust fan mount, or in the farthest top 120 mount. Both as Exhaust. But that wouldnt change your temps much either way. Check your case ambients to see what they run at. Adding fans on top of fans may not even improve temps by more than 2-3C.

Also, does the H60 use a speed profile, like the H100 and similar? Is that fan running at low speed, medium, or high speed?


----------



## Darc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> That would lead me to believe that a reapplication of thermal paste would help. IS this temperature on a stock clock, or overclock?
> 
> You could place the H60 either at the rear exhaust fan mount, or in the farthest top 120 mount. Both as Exhaust. But that wouldnt change your temps much either way. Check your case ambients to see what they run at. Adding fans on top of fans may not even improve temps by more than 2-3C.
> 
> Also, does the H60 use a speed profile, like the H100 and similar? Is that fan running at low speed, medium, or high speed?


I considered a re-application of thermal paste, as I had to clear off the existing paste applied prior for the last CPU cooler I had, but I meticulously cleared that before placing the h60i block as it had thermal paste pre-applied. Ambient is high where the PC is located - I'd say mid 80s - due to the hot climate where I live.

I checked the BIOS and set the smart fan off with the other setting at auto.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darc*
> 
> I considered a re-application of thermal paste, as I had to clear off the existing paste applied prior for the last CPU cooler I had, but I meticulously cleared that before placing the h60i block as it had thermal paste pre-applied. Ambient is high where the PC is located - I'd say mid 80s - due to the hot climate where I live.
> 
> I checked the BIOS and set the smart fan off with the other setting at auto.


Ok, 80F is still sortof low for case ambients.

So you're saying the H60 fan runs at 100% constant? One thing you could try is grab a 2nd 120 fan and use that for a push/pull setup with the Radiator.

Depending which CPU you have, you'll either want the Middle dot method for AMD, or the line method of applying paste for most recent Intel CPU's.

Do you remember your temps with the stock or previous cooler you had?.


----------



## Darc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Ok, 80F is still sortof low for case ambients.
> 
> So you're saying the H60 fan runs at 100% constant? One thing you could try is grab a 2nd 120 fan and use that for a push/pull setup with the Radiator.
> 
> Depending which CPU you have, you'll either want the Middle dot method for AMD, or the line method of applying paste for most recent Intel CPU's.
> 
> Do you remember your temps with the stock or previous cooler you had?.


Ah, okay.

According to HWMonitor the CPU fan is running at 100%. I'd like to have a push/pull configuration at the back with a 230mm intake at the front, and forget about a 120mm fan at the top.

Running stock clocks. My old CPU cooler was idling at 48 and max was high 60s, sometimes a small break into the 70 range.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So I get that I have to clear the profiles and uninstall CorsairLink when I switch to an H100i from an H80i. But do I have to use this thing called "Corsair USB Dongle (Driver Removal)" when I'm doing that? Yeah that USB Dongle thing is in the Programs and Features list in the Control Panel.
> 
> Also, does anyone know the location for the Corsair Link profiles?


Does anyone know the answer to this?

Also, for an H100i, what's better. Having the fans push air through the radiator, or having the fans pull air through the radiator?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darc*
> 
> Ah, okay.
> 
> According to HWMonitor the CPU fan is running at 100%. I'd like to have a push/pull configuration at the back with a 230mm intake at the front, and forget about a 120mm fan at the top.
> 
> Running stock clocks. My old CPU cooler was idling at 48 and max was high 60s, sometimes a small break into the 70 range.


What CPU are you running? I would definitely say try reapplying thermal paste then, You should be well under what the stock cooler gave you as far as temps with the H60.

How is the pump plugged up? If it is to the CPU 3pin header on the motherboard than that 100% might be registering the pump as running at 100%. Where do you have the H60's fan plugged in?

If you have it available, plug the H60 fan into something like a 3pin to molex adapter so that it can get a full 12V, and see if you notice any change in fan volume. Or, set the fan profile in BIOS to run at max. If the fan for the h60 is anything similar to the other models, it should be quite loud at max speed.


----------



## Darc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> What CPU are you running? I would definitely say try reapplying thermal paste then, You should be well under what the stock cooler gave you as far as temps with the H60.
> 
> How is the pump plugged up? If it is to the CPU 3pin header on the motherboard than that 100% might be registering the pump as running at 100%. Where do you have the H60's fan plugged in?
> 
> If you have it available, plug the H60 fan into something like a 3pin to molex adapter so that it can get a full 12V, and see if you notice any change in fan volume. Or, set the fan profile in BIOS to run at max. If the fan for the h60 is anything similar to the other models, it should be quite loud at max speed.


I was actually running an aftermarket CPU cooler with those 48-high 60 temps.

Everything is plugged correctly. Going to go into the BIOS and check the fan speed, though.


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Google works wonders for questions like these...


mostly it is back order or doesnot have it anymore


----------



## Darc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> What CPU are you running? I would definitely say try reapplying thermal paste then, You should be well under what the stock cooler gave you as far as temps with the H60.
> 
> How is the pump plugged up? If it is to the CPU 3pin header on the motherboard than that 100% might be registering the pump as running at 100%. Where do you have the H60's fan plugged in?
> 
> If you have it available, plug the H60 fan into something like a 3pin to molex adapter so that it can get a full 12V, and see if you notice any change in fan volume. Or, set the fan profile in BIOS to run at max. If the fan for the h60 is anything similar to the other models, it should be quite loud at max speed.


CPU Smart Fan control is disabled, and I set the SYS Fan1 to 100%. It is audible now, as it was running at 60% prior, but no discernible difference besides noise level. Is there a way to check the pump is running correctly?

I'm going to order a multi-fan connector, run a push/pull setup, and place a 230mm intake at the front just to be safe either way, but I'd like to clear up this H60i business. Might as well use Arctic 5 Silver thermal paste as well.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> mostly it is back order or doesnot have it anymore


5 seconds of googling....
http://www.jab-tech.com/120mm-fans/scythe-gentle-typhoon-d1225c12b5ap-15-1850rpm/

http://compare.ebay.com/like/310389030988?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

http://www.rakuten.com/prod/scythe-d1225c12b5ap-15-gentle-typhoon-120mm-fans-1850rpm/219437500.html?listingId=209732497

http://www.scienceandindustrial.com/191_page_836592.htm


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darc*
> 
> CPU Smart Fan control is disabled, and I set the SYS Fan1 to 100%. It is audible now, as it was running at 60% prior, but no discernible difference besides noise level. Is there a way to check the pump is running correctly?
> 
> I'm going to order a multi-fan connector, run a push/pull setup, and place a 230mm intake at the front just to be safe either way, but I'd like to clear up this H60i business. Might as well use Arctic 5 Silver thermal paste as well.


Check Sidewinder for TIM - http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/therinmat.html
I got 25 Grams of Arctic Silver Ceramique 2 for really cheap.

It just feels like that H60 should be giving you lower temps than that. Hopefully adding a fan in push/pull will help that.


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> 5 seconds of googling....
> http://www.jab-tech.com/120mm-fans/scythe-gentle-typhoon-d1225c12b5ap-15-1850rpm/
> 
> http://compare.ebay.com/like/310389030988?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar
> 
> http://www.rakuten.com/prod/scythe-d1225c12b5ap-15-gentle-typhoon-120mm-fans-1850rpm/219437500.html?listingId=209732497
> 
> http://www.scienceandindustrial.com/191_page_836592.htm


thanks


----------



## Destrto

Welcome


----------



## rickyman0319

I am wondering if H80i (orginlal fan) is better han Sp120 PE. (non-pwm)

or they both the samething.


----------



## Tugz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am wondering if H80i (orginlal fan) is better han Sp120 PE. (non-pwm)
> 
> or they both the samething.


I have a h100i, and i tried using sp120 PE for the push fans and the original fans for pull. but got higher temps. i switched back using the originals as push and sp120 as pull and temps went down. Not sure if its just me or anyone experience this. Seen alot of people using sp120 for there fans on hydros.


----------



## Duality92

I have an H40 and my FX-6100 underload reaches 55°C without any overclock, is this normal?

Edit: I have 2x Fractal Design R2, 120mm in p/p


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> I have an H40 and my FX-6100 underload reaches 55°C without any overclock, is this normal?
> 
> Edit: I have 2x Fractal Design R2, 120mm in p/p


Probably. The H40 is a POS low end cooler.


----------



## Duality92

That I know, I bought it almost 2 years ago unknowlingly, sadly.


----------



## smoke420

I have x2 h60's on my graphics cards and a h50 n my CPU all three pumps and rads are running in series on a single loop.I just got a new pump and res my question is if i use the corsair waterblocks should i take the impellers out of the pumps to improve flow?


----------



## Tater00nuts

I don't know what the flow rate is but I'm guessing if the RPM is the same or at least very close you are probably better leaving them in. A couple posts back someone was talking about how restrictive the blocks are so I think if you take them out you would see your temps jump. Neat idea having them in series, do you have some pics? What are your temps like?


----------



## Destrto

If you are talking about a full custom loop pump, then you risk blowing out your H60-50 pumps. They arent designed to handle that kind of flow and are likely to burn out if you connected anything heavier to them.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Yes take the impellers out. If you leave them in you will do 1 of 2 things I assume: blow out the h blocks or put way too much restriction against the pump


----------



## CannedBullets

Yep, my C70 just came in today, I'll post better pics once I migrate my parts to it on Sunday.

EDIT: Whoops, thought this was the C70 club.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tugz*
> 
> I have a h100i, and i tried using sp120 PE for the push fans and the original fans for pull. but got higher temps. i switched back using the originals as push and sp120 as pull and temps went down. Not sure if its just me or anyone experience this. Seen alot of people using sp120 for there fans on hydros.


Push pull from what I hear doesn't help much. I threw in SP120 Performance PWM's which max out at 2300 rpm as push/exhaust and have no issues keeping my FX 8350 cool at 4.7 or 4.8 Ghz. To go higher I would need a quality custom loop regardless but the fans work great and are not as loud as the stock H100i fans at 100%.


----------



## Assyle

Hello everyone









today Ive bought h100i, and Im a little bit dissappointed. I had antec 620 cpu cooler before corsair h100i. Antec had 120mm rad, and I thought that 240mm rad on h100i gonna perform at least better, but after installing it I found out that the temps are even higher over antec. I still got a feeling that Im doing something wrong. Could someone say if my temps are too high for h100i or not?

System config
i5 3570k (non overclocked), gtx770, psu corsair tx750. case bitfenix prodigy.

with antec I had
idle 27-33 C, and 67C under a full load. (ambient temp was 23-25C)

and h100i has
idle 29-34 C, and 71C under a full load. (ambient temp was even smaller 20C)

both configs were with corsair SP120 QE, with one exception that antec had 2 sp fans in a push/pull mode, and h100i is on a pull.

I even tried to make a push pull with h100i stock fans, but the situation didnt improoved at all.
My antec rad got hot under a load, but h100i is cold as rock and becomes a little bit warm under a full load.
I didnt overclocked cpu at all, and I think people have even smaller temps with the same cpu, but after overclocking.

Does any one has any suggestions to this situation?









I think the problem can be caused by backplate issue. I saw many people were telling that it doesnt holds good enough. When I placed the h100i for first time, I had temps over 80 under a load, so I uninstalled it and noticed that thermal compound applied only to a half of the cpu. Co apllied some other thermal compound and placed a pump tubes on the other side. And temps were 2-3 degrees smaller than now. Than I wanted to look if thermal compound was applied on the hole cpu so I took the pump off and it was ok. After thatre moved old TC I applied new thermal compound, this time some of cooler master tc. I think its not good enough that why the temps are 2-3 degrees higher, but still I think that temps are too hight even with a chep thermal compound. Could it be because of the backplate issue?









thanx for responses


----------



## EniGma1987

71c under full load for a non overclock 3570K with H100i seems very high to me. I hit 67c under 100% load at 4.7GHz on my older H100, although I am de-lidded. However I only dropped 5-6c after the delid. Maybe your heatsink base is not completely flat?


----------



## Assyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> 71c under full load for a non overclock 3570K with H100i seems very high to me. I hit 67c under 100% load at 4.7GHz on my older H100, although I am de-lidded. However I only dropped 5-6c after the delid. Maybe your heatsink base is not completely flat?


Yep, thats why I was asking. These temps seems very high for me as well. And Idk what can I do to make it better.








Im not sure if heatsink base is not flat. I think its flat as it should be, at least it seems so visually.
Could this be because the case is very small and tubes are very bended?
Its a such a big problem to place this cooler to this case. I wanted to put the tubes on the front of the case, but it doesnt fit with fan controller at all in this position. So it looks like this


I even got a win8 BSOD during the last cpu stress test. And the worst thing that I even cannot see any reason for this :/


----------



## MrSharkington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Assyle*
> 
> Yep, thats why I was asking. These temps seems very high for me as well. And Idk what can I do to make it better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im not sure if heatsink base is not flat. I think its flat as it should be, at least it seems so visually.
> Could this be because the case is very small and tubes are very bended?
> Its a such a big problem to place this cooler to this case. I wanted to put the tubes on the front of the case, but it doesnt fit with fan controller at all in this position. So it looks like this
> 
> 
> I even got a win8 BSOD during the last cpu stress test. And the worst thing that I even cannot see any reason for this :/


Im suprised you could even fit the tubes in that way, I found it near impossible and just gave up and ended up fitting it in the front


----------



## rickyman0319

F12 or SP120 PE w/ 7v with MCR220 (both push only)

it is with i7 2700k cpu

I want a quiet system. which one is better?


----------



## MrSharkington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> F12 or SP120 PE w/ 7v with MCR220 (both push only)
> 
> it is with i7 2700k cpu
> 
> I want a quiet system. which one is better?


I just ordered a pair of f12's for my h100i, they're apparently the most silent on the market so I'll be sure to give my opinion when they come. But from what I've seen, they're a lot better than the SP120's


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Assyle*
> 
> I even got a win8 BSOD during the last cpu stress test. And the worst thing that I even cannot see any reason for this :/


Did you try going into the Windows Event Viewer?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Hey guys im planning on getting the N-12'S for my H100i just want to know if they can be controlled by the corsair software,or would i have to run them on my fan controller....? Also how good are the new pwn corsair 120's(performance),do they have that annoying whine like the stock fans at low voltages....


----------



## _TRU_

H60 2013 2 all white bit Fenix spectre pros in p/p. Loudest thing in my rig is my MSI TF 760 Gaming card. Without it, you wouldn't even knew my system was on

telekinetically transported by my LG Motion


----------



## MrSharkington

Hi guys, just a quick question of concern:

Due to the way I've mounted my h100i in my case (see sig for more photos), the tubes kind of are against the edge of my fans frame. I've noticed a little bit of a mark accumulating due to this, it couldn't cause any damage or danger could it? Sorry if it sounds kind of stupid to be asking, but best to be safe.


----------



## GingertronMk1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys im planning on getting the N-12'S for my H100i just want to know if they can be controlled by the corsair software,or would i have to run them on my fan controller....? Also how good are the new pwn corsair 120's(performance),do they have that annoying whine like the stock fans at low voltages....


Yes. You will be able to control them from within Corsair Link.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> Hi guys, just a quick question of concern:
> 
> Due to the way I've mounted my h100i in my case (see sig for more photos), the tubes kind of are against the edge of my fans frame. I've noticed a little bit of a mark accumulating due to this, it couldn't cause any damage or danger could it? Sorry if it sounds kind of stupid to be asking, but best to be safe.


So long as it's not rubbing or anything, I don't see why there should be a problem.


----------



## MrSharkington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingertronMk1*
> 
> So long as it's not rubbing or anything, I don't see why there should be a problem.


It's made a slight indent in them but my temps are still completely normal


----------



## GingertronMk1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> It's made a slight indent in them but my temps are still completely normal


In the fans or the tubes?


----------



## MrSharkington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingertronMk1*
> 
> In the fans or the tubes?


tubes


----------



## TheBirdman74

any owners here got a broken h100i? I needed the radiator.


----------



## GingertronMk1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> tubes


Personally, I'd put some blu-tack between them.

EDIT: Anyone know if I could put a fan gasket between fan and case on an H100i?

EDIT2: Did some sleuthing, and for the gasket I want (Acousti Products something, it comes with little washers as well), I'll need 35mm long screws, and I'll get the same clearances as normal screws sans gasket.


----------



## MrSharkington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingertronMk1*
> 
> Personally, I'd put some blu-tack between them.
> 
> EDIT: Anyone know if I could put a fan gasket between fan and case on an H100i?


hmm, well it isnt really doing anything bad like cutting deep into it so i might just leave it for now, but thanks for the input anyway


----------



## rickyman0319

what fans work best for H80?

SP120, F-12 or AP-15

which one has best perforamce?


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what fans work best for H80?
> 
> SP120, F-12 or AP-15
> 
> which one has best perforamce?


I asked pretty much the same question last week and all the charts I saw show the SP120 performance edition being the best, however it is also loud. The AP-15 performs close to the same level at a much lower volume.


----------



## Assyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> Im suprised you could even fit the tubes in that way, I found it near impossible and just gave up and ended up fitting it in the front


I thought by head with blow up, when I was placing it.







I also was thinking about placing them at the front, but fan controller doesnt allows me to do that. Now Im thinking of modding side panel to place fan controller there.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Did you try going into the Windows Event Viewer?


Well Im kind a noob, and after opening it I could find nothing that can help me to find a reason of BSOD. WIndows got me a message after reboot that it will send some report to microsoft. I dont know how to look it through.


Anyway thanx for trying to help me.
Now Ive got another theory why the temperatures can be so high with my non overclocked 3570k.
Could this be because of cheap MOBO?
I ve got msi b75 mini itx mobo, and it was one of the cheapest motherbords that were at that time for 1155 socket.
The first processor I had in this rig was Intel Pentium G840, which was sandy bridge. I was using it with Cooler Master Hyper 212+ EVO. And if I remember idle cpu temp was 47C. And even then I thought it was very high. After upgrading it to 3570k the temp were even higher. maybe it wasnt a cooler issue, but some motherboard cpu connection issue? as it was told above?
Maybe if I will change the mobo the tamps are gonna be much more better? Or it is impossible theory?

today I applied new thermal compound arctic mx-4 with my h100i and Ive got a feeling that the temos even increased :/here is a screenshot.


----------



## MrSharkington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Assyle*
> 
> I thought by head with blow up, when I was placing it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also was thinking about placing them at the front, but fan controller doesnt allows me to do that. Now Im thinking of modding side panel to place fan controller there.
> Well Im kind a noob, and after opening it I could find nothing that can help me to find a reason of BSOD. WIndows got me a message after reboot that it will send some report to microsoft. I dont know how to look it through.
> 
> 
> Anyway thanx for trying to help me.
> Now Ive got another theory why the temperatures can be so high with my non overclocked 3570k.
> Could this be because of cheap MOBO?
> I ve got msi b75 mini itx mobo, and it was one of the cheapest motherbords that were at that time for 1155 socket.
> The first processor I had in this rig was Intel Pentium G840, which was sandy bridge. I was using it with Cooler Master Hyper 212+ EVO. And if I remember idle cpu temp was 47C. And even then I thought it was very high. After upgrading it to 3570k the temp were even higher. maybe it wasnt a cooler issue, but some motherboard cpu connection issue? as it was told above?
> Maybe if I will change the mobo the tamps are gonna be much more better? Or it is impossible theory?
> 
> today I applied new thermal compound arctic mx-4 with my h100i and Ive got a feeling that the temos even increased :/here is a screenshot.


My guess (if you haven't already mentioned this, not sure) is your cooler could be maybe not mounted properly, that or possibly the thermal paste on your block might have screwed up. I also ran into a problem with having it front mounted as there is constant air bubbles in my pump. But eh, i'm used to it. My h100i idles with my 3570k at 4.5GHz at around 35c and hits about 65 on full load, though this sounds very strange for stock.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Assyle*
> 
> Hello everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> today Ive bought h100i, and Im a little bit dissappointed. I had antec 620 cpu cooler before corsair h100i. Antec had 120mm rad, and I thought that 240mm rad on h100i gonna perform at least better, but after installing it I found out that the temps are even higher over antec. I still got a feeling that Im doing something wrong. Could someone say if my temps are too high for h100i or not?
> 
> System config
> i5 3570k (non overclocked), gtx770, psu corsair tx750. case bitfenix prodigy.
> 
> with antec I had
> idle 27-33 C, and 67C under a full load. (ambient temp was 23-25C)
> 
> and h100i has
> idle 29-34 C, and 71C under a full load. (ambient temp was even smaller 20C)
> 
> both configs were with corsair SP120 QE, with one exception that antec had 2 sp fans in a push/pull mode, and h100i is on a pull.
> 
> I even tried to make a push pull with h100i stock fans, but the situation didnt improoved at all.
> My antec rad got hot under a load, but h100i is cold as rock and becomes a little bit warm under a full load.
> I didnt overclocked cpu at all, and I think people have even smaller temps with the same cpu, but after overclocking.
> 
> Does any one has any suggestions to this situation?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the problem can be caused by backplate issue. I saw many people were telling that it doesnt holds good enough. When I placed the h100i for first time, I had temps over 80 under a load, so I uninstalled it and noticed that thermal compound applied only to a half of the cpu. Co apllied some other thermal compound and placed a pump tubes on the other side. And temps were 2-3 degrees smaller than now. Than I wanted to look if thermal compound was applied on the hole cpu so I took the pump off and it was ok. After thatre moved old TC I applied new thermal compound, this time some of cooler master tc. I think its not good enough that why the temps are 2-3 degrees higher, but still I think that temps are too hight even with a chep thermal compound. Could it be because of the backplate issue?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanx for responses
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Assyle*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I thought by head with blow up, when I was placing it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also was thinking about placing them at the front, but fan controller doesnt allows me to do that. Now Im thinking of modding side panel to place fan controller there.
> Well Im kind a noob, and after opening it I could find nothing that can help me to find a reason of BSOD. WIndows got me a message after reboot that it will send some report to microsoft. I dont know how to look it through.
> 
> 
> Anyway thanx for trying to help me.
> Now Ive got another theory why the temperatures can be so high with my non overclocked 3570k.
> Could this be because of cheap MOBO?
> I ve got msi b75 mini itx mobo, and it was one of the cheapest motherbords that were at that time for 1155 socket.
> The first processor I had in this rig was Intel Pentium G840, which was sandy bridge. I was using it with Cooler Master Hyper 212+ EVO. And if I remember idle cpu temp was 47C. And even then I thought it was very high.
> 
> 
> 
> After upgrading it to 3570k the temp were even higher. maybe it wasnt a cooler issue, but some motherboard cpu connection issue? as it was told above?
> Maybe if I will change the mobo the tamps are gonna be much more better? Or it is impossible theory?
> 
> today I applied new thermal compound arctic mx-4 with my h100i and Ive got a feeling that the temos even increased :/here is a screenshot.
Click to expand...

For a stock 3570K @ 22c-24c ambients your load temps are on average about 15c-20c to high








You've already tried several remounts and checked the TIM was spread evenly (very good!) ...
So it must be a faulty pump or some kind of restriction for your radiator airflow. A properly functioning motherboard will have NO effect. ...Try a test with the radiator unmounted, outside the case with no restrictions to airflow ... I would also prefer to see the slower rpm/SP120 QE's in the push position if those are the only 2 fans you have circulating air through the rad.

I don't think it is a problem, but we might also find that the slightly severe hose bending may be putting enough side pressure on the block to dislodge it from making good contact.

A 2500K is pretty similar to the 3570K @ stock speeds for a load temps comparison. Below are my stock numbers from several tests I use for overclocking stability for you to compare with








Also note that your H100i should be 3c-4c better than my H100 when all things/settings are equal/stock. My H100 was set on "Low" stock fans @ appx 1350rpm's for the tests below, but I'm also using my CM200mm fan in the pull position for a push/pull setup improving my temps by appx 2c over just the stock fans in push.

2500K stock 3.3GHz (H100L) / A75F [24c] Ambient temps
GSkill RJ-X 2133 CL11 - [email protected] 9-10-9-28 1N 1.6v
tWR-12 / tRFC-130 / tRRD-6 / tWTR-7 / tRTP-7 / tFAW-30
BUS SPEED 100.0-->100.1
CPU-Z - 3404.50 / i.960v L1.208v / 51w

Hyper PI 0.99b - 1M - 11.777s A75F / i32-29-28-30c / L44-43-41-42c
Hyper PI 0.99b - 8M - 2m 11.250s A75F / i32-29-28-30c / L46-45-43-45c

LinX
Performance (GFlops) Prob 9977 Mem 768 / 5 runs No Errors 1m 28s
Size LDA Align. Average Maximal A75F / i32-29-28-30c / L48-50-47-47c
9977 9992 4 49.2527 49.2722 RealTemp 60w

XS Bench Real Temp- score 1507 / 9.708s / 3694.89GHz
CPU-Z - 3404.50 / i.960v L1.216v / 78w

P95 Blend (@10min) FFT 448K - A75F / i31-28-28-29c / L49-50-49-48c
P95 Blend (@20min) FFT 8K - A73F / i31-27-28-29c / L50-52-50-50c

IBT v2.54 / Standard - 5 runs 77.84 sec / ram 1024 / 88.6 - 90.2 GFlops
HWMonitor 1.208v / 82.28w A73F / i31-27-28-29c / L48-51-48-49c

All temps were recorded with RealTemp and/or HWMonitor
Sorry didn't have any "screenie's" from base/stock tests








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> I asked pretty much the same question last week and all the charts I saw show the SP120 performance edition being the best, however it is also loud. The AP-15 performs close to the same level at a much lower volume.


*THIS ^^^^*







... also see *[HERE]* for more info/confirmation


----------



## Tater00nuts

Quote:


> I don't think it is a problem, but we might also find that the slightly severe hose bending may be putting enough side pressure on the block to dislodge it from making good contact.


This^^^

I couldn't figure out how to say it so others would understand.


----------



## Kaze105

Got my first Hydro H100i for my fractal R4 case. (i7 4770k at stock for now) and is setup as push configuration with 2 stock fans.

Max temps seem great at 55C, but idle temp seems rather high at around 40C considering my ambient temp is around 25C or lower sometimes. Just to confirm, is this normal?


----------



## MrSharkington

Anyone know if the h100i fits in the fractal define mini? having evil thoughts of changing cases


----------



## CannedBullets

More to come tomorrow.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> any owners here got a broken h100i? I needed the radiator.


bump? anybody?


----------



## Shurtugal

My h100i is performing pretty well, using stock fans in push out the top of a NZXT Phantom 410, with temps around 30 degrees C at idle at 4.5 GHz, I am going to re - overclock tommorow night, so i'll edit this with 100% load temps too (Had to reinstall windows)
Also, POST 24,000! lol


----------



## Assyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> For a stock 3570K @ 22c-24c ambients your load temps are on average about 15c-20c to high
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You've already tried several remounts and checked the TIM was spread evenly (very good!) ...
> So it must be a faulty pump or some kind of restriction for your radiator airflow. A properly functioning motherboard will have NO effect. ...Try a test with the radiator unmounted, outside the case with no restrictions to airflow ... I would also prefer to see the slower rpm/SP120 QE's in the push position if those are the only 2 fans you have circulating air through the rad.
> 
> I don't think it is a problem, but we might also find that the slightly severe hose bending may be putting enough side pressure on the block to dislodge it from making good contact.
> 
> *THIS ^^^^*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... also see *[HERE]* for more info/confirmation


thanx for advices,
I tried to take rad out of the case and there was no difference.
after that I tried to use stock fans in push, pull and push/pull with PC120QE. again result is the same. Maybe 2-3 degrees c smaller but not enough. so its probably not an airflow issue.

to except pressure on the block by severe bending hoses I even got radically and modded a case and made 6 additional holes to put the rad 3cm to back so tubes were in front.
after that Iapplied new TC and results were even horrible







over 90 d C under a load. I uninstalled the cooler and found out that thermal sompound even didnt touched the pump.
you can see it on a photo. :/


than I have put more thermal compound and again 73C under a load. After removing pump the thermal compound was spread only partly. :/


after that I have apllied even more thermal compound. I have never put so much of it to my cpu. And finally got 62C under a load.
then I removed stock fans from push/pull configuration and left only sp120qe, and temps were 65 under full load.
I lleft this configuration cause stock fans were so noisy. I know the result is still far away from the ideal, but at least its below 70C.
Probably after all these operations there is the only reason - bad contact between cpu and the pump. I tried different variations of placing the pump, but the result is the same. :/ I still got a feeling that it is caused by mobo cpu plate. And maybe the backplate which is moving around on the mobo. :/ maybe next month I will buy some new motherboard and compare results. Because I have no idea what else I can do to improove results.

here is a photo of final configuration after modding a case. as you can se they are not extremely bended now-


----------



## pc-illiterate

get some plastic/nylon washers and put them between the backplate and motherboard backside. thats ahelluva gap between the cpu ihs and the pump/block. the 1st pic is all the tim i use and that 2nd pic is entirely overkill on the tim amount.

*EDIT* - as tomcat said, make sure those caps arent pushing up on the tubes. its quite possible they are. cant believe i missed that with my dumb ocd tendencies...


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaze105*
> 
> Got my first Hydro H100i for my fractal R4 case. (i7 4770k at stock for now) and is setup as push configuration with 2 stock fans.
> 
> Max temps seem great at 55C, but idle temp seems rather high at around 40C considering my ambient temp is around 25C or lower sometimes. Just to confirm, is this normal?


Load temps seem OK! (what load program?) Idle temps seem high but that may be a function of Haswell architecture and the known issue's with Intel idle temp reporting. What monitoring program are you using? If that is a bios reading it's normal. What are your idle voltages? Are your power saving features disabled? Some screenshots would help ... see *[HERE]*









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> Anyone know if the h100i fits in the fractal define mini? having evil thoughts of changing cases


Though it is not listed in the Corsair Case Compatibility thread *[HERE]* ... there is a "Front Mount" mod [HERE] that looks very nice and not to complicated









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Assyle*
> 
> thanx for advices,
> I tried to take rad out of the case and there was no difference.
> after that I tried to use stock fans in push, pull and push/pull with PC120QE. again result is the same. Maybe 2-3 degrees c smaller but not enough. so its probably not an airflow issue.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> to except pressure on the block by severe bending hoses I even got radically and modded a case and made 6 additional holes to put the rad 3cm to back so tubes were in front.
> after that Iapplied new TC and results were even horrible
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> over 90 d C under a load. I uninstalled the cooler and found out that thermal sompound even didnt touched the pump.
> you can see it on a photo. :/
> 
> 
> than I have put more thermal compound and again 73C under a load. After removing pump the thermal compound was spread only partly. :/
> 
> 
> after that I have apllied even more thermal compound. I have never put so much of it to my cpu. And finally got 62C under a load.
> then I removed stock fans from push/pull configuration and left only sp120qe, and temps were 65 under full load.
> I lleft this configuration cause stock fans were so noisy. I know the result is still far away from the ideal, but at least its below 70C.
> Probably after all these operations there is the only reason - bad contact between cpu and the pump. I tried different variations of placing the pump, but the result is the same. :/ I still got a feeling that it is caused by mobo cpu plate. And maybe the backplate which is moving around on the mobo. :/ maybe next month I will buy some new motherboard and compare results. Because I have no idea what else I can do to improove results.
> 
> here is a photo of final configuration after modding a case. as you can se they are not extremely bended now-
> 
> 
> 
> ]


OK I agree it isn't an airflow restriction problem ... and it looks to be a mounting/contact problem









1) I know it will be a pain in the arse with such tight quarters, but try another remount with normal application of TIM, but rotating the block 90 degrees to clear any unseen mobo capacitor impediments. If what you mean by "trying different variations" of mounting, then ignore.

EDIT: In the 1st & 2nd photo I can see there is a good chance your block is hanging up on that row of capacitors to the right of the CPU socket so take a real close look at that. It doesn't take much to prevent you from having optimal contact











1a) Try "shiming" the backplate as PC-Illiterate suggests ... you can also quickly confirm this is the problem by just "carefully" applying "even thumb" pressure to the block with proper TIM amount, while you are load testing to check temps.









2) Check for flatness (excessive concave(ness)) of the block with a "straightedge" ... you may have a manufacturing defective block ... RARE but possible ... you can either "lap" it or return it through RMA process









3) Check your bios (cpu fan speed) to see that the pump is turning the proper rpm's (2200rpm?) for proper functionality?

4) Start the RMA process with Corsair ... you have a well documented case and it will go fast/smoothly


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Assyle*
> 
> thanx for advices,
> I tried to take rad out of the case and there was no difference.
> after that I tried to use stock fans in push, pull and push/pull with PC120QE. again result is the same. Maybe 2-3 degrees c smaller but not enough. so its probably not an airflow issue.
> 
> to except pressure on the block by severe bending hoses I even got radically and modded a case and made 6 additional holes to put the rad 3cm to back so tubes were in front.
> after that Iapplied new TC and results were even horrible
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> over 90 d C under a load. I uninstalled the cooler and found out that thermal sompound even didnt touched the pump.
> you can see it on a photo. :/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> than I have put more thermal compound and again 73C under a load. After removing pump the thermal compound was spread only partly. :/
> 
> 
> after that I have apllied even more thermal compound. I have never put so much of it to my cpu. And finally got 62C under a load.
> then I removed stock fans from push/pull configuration and left only sp120qe, and temps were 65 under full load.
> I lleft this configuration cause stock fans were so noisy. I know the result is still far away from the ideal, but at least its below 70C.
> Probably after all these operations there is the only reason - bad contact between cpu and the pump. I tried different variations of placing the pump, but the result is the same. :/ I still got a feeling that it is caused by mobo cpu plate. And maybe the backplate which is moving around on the mobo. :/ maybe next month I will buy some new motherboard and compare results. Because I have no idea what else I can do to improove results.
> 
> here is a photo of final configuration after modding a case. as you can se they are not extremely bended now-
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hey bud. I think you have way too much TIM there. About double what you should have.

Also, imo, your block is likely hitting one of those rows of capacitors beside your CPU socket. I think you should try turning the block 90 degrees and see if that makes it seat properly.

Lastly, you know those brownish/red cardboard washers you can get for computer builds? Try putting some of those on the back plate screws behind the motherboard. This will slightly increase the pressure of the block on the CPU.

I think you problem is the capacitors though. Rotate the block and see if your problem is solved.


----------



## CannedBullets

So I got all my parts migrated to my C70 and my H100i installed yesterday also. Pardon the cable management and sub-par image quality.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am wondering if H80i (orginlal fan) is better han Sp120 PE. (non-pwm)
> 
> or they both the samething.


SP120s (performance or quiet editions) will be quieter than the stock fans. At least I think that is what you are asking. The cooling performance will be the same, at least between the stock and high performance fans. The quiet might be a hair hotter, but truthfully rpms only help temps up to a certain point. In my experience as long as air is moving through the rad (and the pump is running of course) temps wont change much with fan rpms, even at load.

The stock fans are audible at very low rpms and make a high pitched noise that gets louder the higher the rpms. The SP120s have a lower pitched noise and aren't really audible until around 1100-1200 rpms in my system. I have used both fans in my H100i, and I couldnt wait to get my SP120 back from RMA. I would upgrade the fans just for the peace and quiet.


----------



## CannedBullets

I heard the SP120 Performance Editions are still pretty loud. 35 dba sounds pretty loud.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> I heard the SP120 Performance Editions are still pretty loud. 35 dba sounds pretty loud.


Well only if you have them running full speed, but you shouldn't ever need to do that. The only time my SP120s run at full speed is during CPU stress testing with Linpack when the temps get into the 90°C range. Even then the extra rpms don't help the H100i cool the CPU. I bypass the Corsair Link and hook my fans into my Asus Gryphon MB. This allows me to control all of my case fans through Thermal Radar and make custom fan curves for each. If you get the SP120 high performance PWM editions you can always just make them quiet editions. I have used both the stock and the SP120s with the same curve and the stock fans are much louder and annoying. Sure there are probably quieter fans, but I am just pointing out that the stock fans are not the same as the SP120s when it comes to noise, not even close.


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Well only if you have them running full speed, but you shouldn't ever need to do that. The only time my SP120s run at full speed is during CPU stress testing with Linpack when the temps get into the 90°C range. Even then the extra rpms don't help the H100i cool the CPU. I bypass the Corsair Link and hook my fans into my Asus Gryphon MB. This allows me to control all of my case fans through Thermal Radar and make custom fan curves for each. If you get the SP120 high performance PWM editions you can always just make them quiet editions. I have used both the stock and the SP120s with the same curve and the stock fans are much louder and annoying. Sure there are probably quieter fans, but I am just pointing out that the stock fans are not the same as the SP120s when it comes to noise, not even close.


Too bad my fan is not PWM, it is regular fan. do I need to exchange it and go with PWM edition or I can just do it on fan expert2?


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Well only if you have them running full speed, but you shouldn't ever need to do that. The only time my SP120s run at full speed is during CPU stress testing with Linpack when the temps get into the 90°C range. Even then the extra rpms don't help the H100i cool the CPU. I bypass the Corsair Link and hook my fans into my Asus Gryphon MB. This allows me to control all of my case fans through Thermal Radar and make custom fan curves for each. If you get the SP120 high performance PWM editions you can always just make them quiet editions. I have used both the stock and the SP120s with the same curve and the stock fans are much louder and annoying. Sure there are probably quieter fans, but I am just pointing out that the stock fans are not the same as the SP120s when it comes to noise, not even close.


My NF-F12s work fine on Performance Mode with my H100i though. the color doesn't bother me though.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> Too bad my fan is not PWM, it is regular fan. do I need to exchange it and go with PWM edition or I can just do it on fan expert2?


No, actually it should still be controllable with Fan Xpert. Just hook one into CPU_FAN and the other into CPU_OPT and you should be able to set the curve for both under CPU fan in Fan Xpert. In other words both fans will appear as one fan. You don't have to hook the H80 pump sensor into the CPU headers like Corsair suggests, it can be connected to any 3 pin MB header.

The 3 pins fans might not have as many speed (rpm) settings as a PWM fan but they will work. My rear case fan is a AF120 quiet and I can control it in Thermal Radar, although I basically have it set to run at max all the time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> My NF-F12s work fine on Performance Mode with my H100i though. the color doesn't bother me though.


I actually thought about going with those when I RMAed my first SP120s. I am not saying people should definitely get the SP120s. i just wanted to let people know that they are very different to the stock fans, and people should definitely upgrade them. High rpms aren't necessary to get good cooling from the Corsair coolers, or the H100i in my experience. So the Noctuas are a good choice too.


----------



## rickyman0319

i havenot tried to test SP120 when i reseat the cooler. first time i put the cooler it gets really hot even though i overclocked to 4.2 ghz (core and uncore).

right now i only have NF-12 fans only push with h80 cooler. my temp is less than what i suppose to be like 85-95.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> i havenot tried to test SP120 when i reseat the cooler. first time i put the cooler it gets really hot even though i overclocked to 4.2 ghz (core and uncore).
> 
> right now i only have NF-12 fans only push with h80 cooler. my temp is less than what i suppose to be like 85-95.


Make sure your back plate is facing with the two little rounded edges facing upwards, that can cause the block to sit uneven. Also make sure the water block is tightened evenly. Don't tighten one screw at a time all the way down. Tighten them little by little while rotating around the block. This should spread the paste evenly and ensure that it sits flat against the CPU. Hope this helps and you have better luck with your cooler. I know for a fact that it can cool better than what you reported.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Assyle*
> 
> thanx for advices,
> I tried to take rad out of the case and there was no difference.
> after that I tried to use stock fans in push, pull and push/pull with PC120QE. again result is the same. Maybe 2-3 degrees c smaller but not enough. so its probably not an airflow issue.
> 
> to except pressure on the block by severe bending hoses I even got radically and modded a case and made 6 additional holes to put the rad 3cm to back so tubes were in front.
> after that Iapplied new TC and results were even horrible
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> over 90 d C under a load. I uninstalled the cooler and found out that thermal sompound even didnt touched the pump.
> you can see it on a photo. :/


As TomcatV suggested, rotate the CPU water block 90 degrees. It should be able to mount properly this time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Assyle*
> 
> than I have put more thermal compound and again 73C under a load. After removing pump the thermal compound was spread only partly. :/
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> after that I have apllied even more thermal compound. I have never put so much of it to my cpu. And finally got 62C under a load.
> then I removed stock fans from push/pull configuration and left only sp120qe, and temps were 65 under full load.
> I lleft this configuration cause stock fans were so noisy. I know the result is still far away from the ideal, but at least its below 70C.
> Probably after all these operations there is the only reason - bad contact between cpu and the pump. I tried different variations of placing the pump, but the result is the same. :/ I still got a feeling that it is caused by mobo cpu plate. And maybe the backplate which is moving around on the mobo. :/ maybe next month I will buy some new motherboard and compare results. Because I have no idea what else I can do to improove results.
> 
> here is a photo of final configuration after modding a case. as you can se they are not extremely bended now-


Putting a lot thermal compound to closed the gap won't give you positive result. It only increase resistance to thermal conductivity. It's much better if you closed the gap by putting a thin copper sheet between the CPU water block & CPU IHS (TIM on each side of the copper sheet) but you don't need this kind of mod. Rotating the CPU water block 90 degrees should fixed the contact problem.


----------



## Assyle

Oh guys thank you all for all those advices









FInally got it work below 60C









Today I bought some rubber washers. (that was such big problem)







but I bought some and applied them, and rotated the block 90 degrees as all you told, and you know what? the temperatures under a load were about 80C.
Then I rotated it to my previous configuration and didnt tighten the screws at all. just a little bit. and the temperatures were under 60C. Mostly 56-59 degrees. Only after 75 linx tests there were some 60 on two cores.

I h8 mini itx cases because you dont have a hole for cpu backplate and if you want to work with it you gonna remove the whole mobo :/ But I noticed one interesting thing. Probably my previous results were so high because I have put hte backplate wrong.









Spoiler: My stupidity







So now Im wondering if I will remove those rubber washers could my temps be even better?
Just so tired disassembling and assembling my pc again and again







But if theoretically I can do it even better I will try... vacation time gonna over very soon







If it could be even better I can try a small overclocking as far my mobo will allow. (its very cheap and not very capatible with oc)



p.s. just noticed that my idle temps are 23-28 degrees, I never had such results before.


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Assyle*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: My stupidity


Maybe I am dumb too, but I dont see what is wrong with the way the backplate was mounted. Can someone enlighten me?


----------



## waslakhani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> Maybe I am dumb too, but I dont see what is wrong with the way the backplate was mounted. Can someone enlighten me?


The mount is put on backwards.


----------



## luckymatt

H110 here...does anyone know which is the hot side (i.e. water coming from the cpu) and which is the cold side (water to the cpu after passing through the fin-stacks)?

Like if I'm holding the block in my hand with the tube inlet/outlets towards me and the copper side down, the tube on the right is...(hot or cold)?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luckymatt*
> 
> H110 here...does anyone know which is the hot side (i.e. water coming from the cpu) and which is the cold side (water to the cpu after passing through the fin-stacks)?
> 
> Like if I'm holding the block in my hand with the tube inlet/outlets towards me and the copper side down, the tube on the right is...(hot or cold)?


Both are lukewarm. There is usually less than 1C difference in temperatures between intake and outlet of a waterblock.


----------



## BangBangPlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> Maybe I am dumb too, but I dont see what is wrong with the way the backplate was mounted. Can someone enlighten me?


Those two rounded corners are supposed to be facing upwards, or towards the two screws (that are covered in the picture. Those screws stick out slightly from the back of the board and can cause uneven pressure on the water block if the plate is mounted wrong. You want that plate to sit nice and even.


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Those two rounded corners are supposed to be facing upwards, or towards the two screws (that are covered in the picture. Those screws stick out slightly from the back of the board and can cause uneven pressure on the water block if the plate is mounted wrong. You want that plate to sit nice and even.


Oh, I see it now. Thanks


----------



## luckymatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *luckymatt*
> 
> H110 here...does anyone know which is the hot side (i.e. water coming from the cpu) and which is the cold side (water to the cpu after passing through the fin-stacks)?
> 
> Like if I'm holding the block in my hand with the tube inlet/outlets towards me and the copper side down, the tube on the right is...(hot or cold)?
> 
> 
> 
> Both are lukewarm. There is usually less than 1C difference in temperatures between intake and outlet of a waterblock.
Click to expand...

Maybe I wasn't clear...inlet and outlet on the radiator itself. In other words, let's say I wanted to measure the water temp just before it enters the radiator, then measure it again after the water has gone through the radiator finstack (hopefully it's lost more than 1°...)


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luckymatt*
> 
> Maybe I wasn't clear...inlet and outlet on the radiator itself. In other words, let's say I wanted to measure the water temp just before it enters the radiator, then measure it again after the water has gone through the radiator finstack (hopefully it's lost more than 1°...)


The reason its less than 1C change is because the coolant is moving rapidly.

Imagine you pour a glass of water into a kettle, switch kettle on for one second, pour back into the glass, then put that glass in the fridge for one second, and repeat. You wouldn't expect that water to become hot or cold. This is what's happening in your loop.

Coolant temperature will reach an equilibrium somewhere between ambient temperature and the temperature on the surface of the CPU (which itself is lower than CPU core temp).


----------



## Tom114

I managed to buy a used H80i for 50 euros. I don't have it yet, but can you mount the rad upside down (tubing at the top) without any performance loss? That would be a way to fit it in my case (500r) with one fan on the outside. So that I have more space in the case itself.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Assyle*
> 
> Oh guys thank you all for all those advices
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got it work below 60C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Today I bought some rubber washers. (that was such big problem)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but I bought some and applied them, and rotated the block 90 degrees as all you told, and you know what? the temperatures under a load were about 80C.
> Then I rotated it to my previous configuration and didnt tighten the screws at all. just a little bit. and the temperatures were under 60C. Mostly 56-59 degrees. Only after 75 linx tests there were some 60 on two cores.
> 
> I h8 mini itx cases because you dont have a hole for cpu backplate and if you want to work with it you gonna remove the whole mobo :/ But I noticed one interesting thing.
> 
> 
> 
> Probably my previous results were so high because I have put the backplate wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My stupidity ...
> 
> 
> So now Im wondering if I will remove those rubber washers could my temps be even better?
> p.s. just noticed that my idle temps are 23-28 degrees, I never had such results before.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> Maybe I am dumb too, but I dont see what is wrong with the way the backplate was mounted. Can someone enlighten me?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *waslakhani*
> 
> The mount is put on backwards.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BangBangPlay*
> 
> Those two rounded corners are supposed to be facing upwards, or towards the two screws (that are covered in the picture. Those screws stick out slightly from the back of the board and can cause uneven pressure on the water block if the plate is mounted wrong. You want that plate to sit nice and even.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I also found this explanation of Assyle's backplate being mounted "backwards?" just a bit confusing also. So lets clear that up. Some people might take backwards to mean upside down, and unless you look closely or are familiar with mounting Corsair AIO's you might have missed the 2 slight indentations that BangBang is talking about (circled in pic below).
Soooo ... in Assyle's case, the backplate needed to be *"rotated"* 180 degrees (see pic below)









@ Assyle ... I don't think you need to worry about removing the washers to improve load temps as long as the backplate is level, or on plane with the mobo. And don't be afraid to crank down your block using an X-pattern (see manual) as a lot of guys have seen an improvement in temps because their blocks weren't tight enough. I know this is contrary to your previous frustrating experience, but try it










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Yes, you see that little indentation on the left side? (in the picture)? That is there to allow room to fit around the screws that are on the opposite side. Flip the backplate 180 degrees and you will see that the indentation of the backplate matches up perfectly with 2 screws (or bolts, cant remember).
> 
> Also, exactly what TomCatV said.


Here is a closeup of what Destrto and BangBang were talking about ... if you look closely you can see the 2 screws at the tip of the arrows (pic below) where the indentations (circled in pic) should be










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom114*
> 
> I managed to buy a used H80i for 50 euros. I don't have it yet, but can you mount the rad upside down (tubing at the top) without any performance loss? That would be a way to fit it in my case (500r) with one fan on the outside. So that I have more space in the case itself.


It is not optimal, but it will work. I had to do it with an H60 for a friend. Some will say it "may" cause the gurgling/bubbles noise's, but I haven't found that to be the case. You may also consider cutting out your rear fan grill for better airflow depending on your load temps and/or Intake or Exhaust config.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> Maybe I am dumb too, but I dont see what is wrong with the way the backplate was mounted. Can someone enlighten me?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waslakhani*
> 
> The mount is put on backwards.


Yes, you see that little indentation on the left side? (in the picture)? That is there to allow room to fit around the screws that are on the opposite side. Flip the backplate 180 degrees and you will see that the indentation of the backplate matches up perfectly with 2 screws (or bolts, cant remember).

Also, exactly what TomCatV said.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Does the Corsair Rep in this forum ever respond to any of your guys, I sent the guy a couple of PM's never replied, Quite disappointed since EVGA, Lutr0, Lamptron and all the other Reps have always been quite helpful and quick to respond.


----------



## Mergatroid

Corsair George likely has a lot on his plate. Personally, I wouldn't really expect him to respond on this forum, and I think it's pretty lucky that those other companies did. I don't think he hangs around here as much as he used to, although once in a while he shows up.


----------



## CannedBullets

So has anyone on here with an Asus AMD board been able to use up all four DIMM slots? I might get another 8 GBs of RAM and I'm not sure if the tubes from the waterblock will prevent me from using DIMM slot A1, the closest slot to the socket.


----------



## EniGma1987

I use all 4 slots of both my ASUS 990FX and whatever ASUS Intel board I have on a Z77 chipset.


----------



## Destrto

Yea they all fit on mine as well.


----------



## Beatwolf

Just joined. Got a good deal on an H100i yesterday. Put in my Raven R02, on top of Air Penetrator 181 180mm fans, effectively making it push/pull. It´s not by the book but it works. Will probably be getting a new chassis (probably Define R4) at a later date. Please excuse the poor quality:


----------



## Tugz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> Just joined. Got a good deal on an H100i yesterday. Put in my Raven R02, on top of Air Penetrator 181 180mm fans, effectively making it push/pull. It´s not by the book but it works. Will probably be getting a new chassis (probably Define R4) at a later date. Please excuse the poor quality:


Nice! i Had the same setup done on my old Raven Rv01 using my h100. Worked very well.


----------



## Beatwolf

cool. I would like a quiter chassis but then again I would have worse cooling I guess, not sure if push/pull is possible in the Define R4. Does anyone know if changing the stock corsair fans to two Noctua NF-P12 fans would be a good idea? I have two spare ones now..


----------



## sWaY20

Ok I have a question which I think I already know the answer to. I've been paying bf3 and having random crashes, today I had a bsod that said machine check exception. So I fig something is going out maybe hdd/ssd, so I run p95 and I'm already idling @50c but I thought it was from playing bf3, well temps shoot up past 100, and I shut it off immediately.

Is my h100i toast after 6 months?

tappin from the Nexus 4


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> cool. I would like a quiter chassis but then again I would have worse cooling I guess, not sure if push/pull is possible in the Define R4. Does anyone know if changing the stock corsair fans to two Noctua NF-P12 fans would be a good idea? I have two spare ones now..


If you want to mount the H100i at the top of the case (R4) in push/pull it will not fit unless you mount 2 of the fans externally outside the case on top. Lots of guys have done this including myself with various other cases. See H100i "tight clearances in the R4 [HERE] with only 2 fans push or pull.

However a push/pull setup fully inside the case was achieved by mounting it in the front with some HDD cage removal and some minor modding with a real nice tutorial *[HERE].*









As far as replacing the stock fans with the NF-P12 (not even F12's) they will certainly run quieter but will NOT perform as well. BUT to honestly answer this question it really depends on your overclocks, ambients and application loads ... see my sig link








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Ok I have a question which I think I already know the answer to. I've been paying bf3 and having random crashes, today I had a bsod that said machine check exception. So I fig something is going out maybe hdd/ssd, so I run p95 and I'm already idling @50c but I thought it was from playing bf3, well temps shoot up past 100, and I shut it off immediately.
> 
> Is my h100i toast after 6 months?
> 
> tappin from the Nexus 4


Initially with those temps I'd say it's a pump failure / loss of power to the pump / or your mounting has some how come lose? Sooo initially check power connection, confirm pump rpm's in the bios (cpu fan) and or do a remount.
AND it would really help to have more info on your setup and overclocks (if any?) and previous load temps/ambients


----------



## Nexo

I love Corsairs H80i and H100i


----------



## Nexo

Double post.


----------



## Adriaensen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nexo*
> 
> I love Corsairs H80i and H100i


I got the normal ones.
H100 and H80.. On my 670's







love em


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> cool. I would like a quiter chassis but then again I would have worse cooling I guess, not sure if push/pull is possible in the Define R4. Does anyone know if changing the stock corsair fans to two Noctua NF-P12 fans would be a good idea? I have two spare ones now..
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to mount the H100i at the top of the case (R4) in push/pull it will not fit unless you mount 2 of the fans externally outside the case on top. Lots of guys have done this including myself with various other cases. See H100i "tight clearances in the R4 [HERE] with only 2 fans push or pull.
> 
> However a push/pull setup fully inside the case was achieved by mounting it in the front with some HDD cage removal and some minor modding with a real nice tutorial *[HERE].*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as replacing the stock fans with the NF-P12 (not even F12's) they will certainly run quieter but will NOT perform as well. BUT to honestly answer this question it really depends on your overclocks, ambients and application loads ... see my sig link
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Ok I have a question which I think I already know the answer to. I've been paying bf3 and having random crashes, today I had a bsod that said machine check exception. So I fig something is going out maybe hdd/ssd, so I run p95 and I'm already idling @50c but I thought it was from playing bf3, well temps shoot up past 100, and I shut it off immediately.
> 
> Is my h100i toast after 6 months?
> 
> tappin from the Nexus 4
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Initially with those temps I'd say it's a pump failure / loss of power to the pump / or your mounting has some how come lose? Sooo initially check power connection, confirm pump rpm's in the bios (cpu fan) and or do a remount.
> AND it would really help to have more info on your setup and overclocks (if any?) and previous load temps/ambients
Click to expand...

I'm oc to 4.5 @1.2v, I usually idle at 27c and don't go above 74c on p95 and this was just a few days ago when I tested for 15 hours. I'll check the connections and in the bios, but I haven't messed with it physically in 5 months so nothing should've came loose.

tappin from the NeXus 10


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Ok I have a question which I think I already know the answer to. I've been paying bf3 and having random crashes, today I had a bsod that said machine check exception. So I fig something is going out maybe hdd/ssd, so I run p95 and I'm already idling @50c but I thought it was from playing bf3, well temps shoot up past 100, and I shut it off immediately.
> 
> Is my h100i toast after 6 months?
> 
> tappin from the Nexus 4


Make sure the rad isn't plugged up with dust and that the fans are still working too.


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Ok I have a question which I think I already know the answer to. I've been paying bf3 and having random crashes, today I had a bsod that said machine check exception. So I fig something is going out maybe hdd/ssd, so I run p95 and I'm already idling @50c but I thought it was from playing bf3, well temps shoot up past 100, and I shut it off immediately.
> 
> Is my h100i toast after 6 months?
> 
> tappin from the Nexus 4
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure the rad isn't plugged up with dust and that the fans are still working too.
Click to expand...

Yeah fans are def working and not much dust. I email corsair earlier for rma.

tappin from the Nexus 4


----------



## MrSharkington

I've noticed that my Noctua NF-F12 fans on my h100i, whcich are plugged into the pump only run at 1300rpm max, is there a reason for this?


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> I've noticed that my Noctua NF-F12 fans on my h100i, whcich are plugged into the pump only run at 1300rpm max, is there a reason for this?


What setting do you have the fans on in Corsair Link? I have NF-F12s on my H100i and on Performance mode the fastest I've ever seen my fans run is about 1400 RPM even though the fans are rated for a maximum RPM of 1500.


----------



## MrSharkington

I set them to maximum rpm on Corsair link


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> I set them to maximum rpm on Corsair link


Did you try Performance Mode?


----------



## Destrto

Those ratings are +/- 10% which can fluctuate more or less for some fans.


----------



## MrSharkington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Did you try Performance Mode?


Yeah, still the same. i might just leave it, I'm still getting way cooler temps than with the stock fans anyway


----------



## rickyman0319

I have 2 AP-15 installed with H80. where do I put the 3 pin plug on the motherboard?

I have Case fan 1-4, Cpu Opt and Cpu fan.


----------



## GingertronMk1

You plug the block into the CPU_FAN and the fans into the nearest available CHA_FAN headers. Or get a Y-Splitter and plug them both into the CPU_OPT.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> I've noticed that my Noctua NF-F12 fans on my h100i, whcich are plugged into the pump only run at 1300rpm max, is there a reason for this?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> Yeah, still the same. i might just leave it, I'm still getting *way cooler temps than with the stock fans* anyway
Click to expand...

Hmmm







... how much cooler?

Most would concede that the F12's will run quieter ... but outperform the stock fans? Let's see some screenshots @ 4.9GHz P95 load









Statements like these can be misleading for those new to the H100i and then forking out $55 for F12's expecting higher performance with much cooler load temps could be quite disappointing


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I have 2 AP-15 installed with H80. where do I put the 3 pin plug on the motherboard?
> 
> I have Case fan 1-4, Cpu Opt and Cpu fan.


The 3 pin that comes out of the clock is like a tach sensor that goes to the CPU_FAN header, the RPM represents pump speed. As far as your other fans you can use a splitter or molex converter. I don't use many mobo headers for cable management reasons and rather hide them in the back.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I have 2 AP-15 installed with H80. where do I put the 3 pin plug on the motherboard?
> 
> I have Case fan 1-4, Cpu Opt and Cpu fan.


Most motherboards will not control 3-pin fans and will just run that at 100% all the time. If that's what you want, then go ahead and use the motherboard fan connectors. Use the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT since they are both for cpu fans. Check your manual and see if your motherboard will control 3-pin fans on the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT. It would be nice if they could control the RPM of your fans. If not, and you would like some control over your fans, then plug them into the cpu block on the cooler.

Note, even if your motherboard has a few fan headers that can control 3-pin fans, I still wouldn't recommend you use them _unless they are CPU_FAN headers_. If you use chassis fan or psu fan headers your fans will not respond to the temperature of your CPU.

The small 3-pin connector has the RPM sensor (Tac signal) for the pump. You can plug that into any fan header. If you plug the fans into your cpu cooler block, then plug the tac line into your cpu_fan header so you don't get a cpu_fan failure error at boot.


----------



## MrSharkington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Hmmm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... how much cooler?
> 
> Most would concede that the F12's will run quieter ... but outperform the stock fans? Let's see some screenshots @ 4.9GHz P95 load
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Statements like these can be misleading for those new to the H100i and then forking out $55 for F12's expecting higher performance with much cooler load temps could be quite disappointing


well, on 4.5ghz previously, I was getting around 78c on stock, im now only getting 73 or so on 4.9. It could of also been because I change my rad from the front to the top to get more ventilation. But I've also noticed the idle temps have dropped by 6c or so. I'll take the screenshots in a hour or so, I'm not on my pc at the moment.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> well, on 4.5ghz previously, I was getting around 78c on stock, im now only getting 73 or so on 4.9. It could of also been because I change my rad from the front to the top to get more ventilation. But I've also noticed the idle temps have dropped by 6c or so. I'll take the screenshots in a hour or so, I'm not on my pc at the moment.


No problem ... before and after screenshots are always useful and informative ...








BUT your disclosure of relocating the rad explains for me the difference in both load and idle temps. It's important to compare apples to apples AND improved air circulation to the radiator and case overall are always a good thing


----------



## MrSharkington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> No problem ... before and after screenshots are always useful and informative ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT your disclosure of relocating the rad explains for me the difference in both load and idle temps. It's important to compare apples to apples AND improved air circulation to the radiator and case overall are always a good thing


Yeah you're right, I'm still surprised about the temps either way (just over an hour of prime)


----------



## _TRU_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Yeah fans are def working and not much dust. I email corsair earlier for rma.
> 
> tappin from the Nexus 4


also make sure the pump is physically working. can u verify that the pump is on in bios? (should be reading at 4K RPM +/-)


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Most motherboards will not control 3-pin fans and will just run that at 100% all the time. If that's what you want, then go ahead and use the motherboard fan connectors. Use the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT since they are both for cpu fans. Check your manual and see if your motherboard will control 3-pin fans on the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT. It would be nice if they could control the RPM of your fans. If not, and you would like some control over your fans, then plug them into the cpu block on the cooler.
> 
> Note, even if your motherboard has a few fan headers that can control 3-pin fans, I still wouldn't recommend you use them _unless they are CPU_FAN headers_. If you use chassis fan or psu fan headers your fans will not respond to the temperature of your CPU.
> 
> The small 3-pin connector has the RPM sensor (Tac signal) for the pump. You can plug that into any fan header. If you plug the fans into your cpu cooler block, then plug the tac line into your cpu_fan header so you don't get a cpu_fan failure error at boot.


I think I will just connect rpm sensor into other fan header and AP-15 fan header into CPu header ( using y splitter). wil that works?


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Most motherboards will not control 3-pin fans and will just run that at 100% all the time. If that's what you want, then go ahead and use the motherboard fan connectors. Use the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT since they are both for cpu fans. Check your manual and see if your motherboard will control 3-pin fans on the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT. It would be nice if they could control the RPM of your fans. If not, and you would like some control over your fans, then plug them into the cpu block on the cooler.
> 
> Note, even if your motherboard has a few fan headers that can control 3-pin fans, I still wouldn't recommend you use them _unless they are CPU_FAN headers_. If you use chassis fan or psu fan headers your fans will not respond to the temperature of your CPU.
> 
> The small 3-pin connector has the RPM sensor (Tac signal) for the pump. You can plug that into any fan header. If you plug the fans into your cpu cooler block, then plug the tac line into your cpu_fan header so you don't get a cpu_fan failure error at boot.
> 
> 
> 
> I think I will just connect rpm sensor into other fan header and AP-15 fan header into CPu header ( using y splitter). wil that works?
Click to expand...

The waterblock should use the CPU_FAN header and your other fans use the CPU_OPT. The point of doing this is so if your pump fails the CPU RPM will fall below a "normal" threshhold and generally warn you and/or shut down your system to prevent overheating.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> Yeah you're right, I'm still surprised about the temps either way (just over an hour of prime)


Those temps are looking very good with that overclock especially in such tight quarters with the Prodigy








Remember to mention your ambient temps next time just to fine tune the info









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_TRU_*
> 
> also make sure the pump is physically working. can u verify that the pump is on in bios? (should be reading at 4K RPM +/-)


H100i pump rpm should be closer to 2200rpm's ... Per earlier request/tips for troubleshooting - check the pump rpm was mentioned so we just assumed he confirmed it wasn't working properly, hence the RMA


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_TRU_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Yeah fans are def working and not much dust. I email corsair earlier for rma.
> 
> tappin from the Nexus 4
> 
> 
> 
> also make sure the pump is physically working. can u verify that the pump is on in bios? (should be reading at 4K RPM +/-)
Click to expand...

I'm my bios, it says cpu fan speed is 2350rpm, I'm assuming that's the pump? It's reading 57c in bios as well.

tappin from the Nexus 4


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> The waterblock should use the CPU_FAN header and your other fans use the CPU_OPT. The point of doing this is so if your pump fails the CPU RPM will fall below a "normal" threshhold and generally warn you and/or shut down your system to prevent overheating.


how do I control 2 xAP15 fans with H80 cooler?


----------



## Buxty

Do you guys think it'd be worth picking up a H100 refurb with 90day warranty for 40GBP as a replacement to my Hyper 212 EVO?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Do you guys think it'd be worth picking up a H100 refurb with 90day warranty for 40GBP as a replacement to my Hyper 212 EVO?


Yes.
And buy some SP120's to go with it.


----------



## Buxty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Yes.
> And buy some SP120's to go with it.


I thought some people had build quality issues with SP120's or is that just the luck of the draw? And is it true that H100 and H100i perform like top end air but noisier, and wouldn't that be cancelled out with better fans









Sorry for all the questions but i've been sifting through lots of stuff online about people saying "get away from AIO coolers" and "H100i is better than H100" and not saying why


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> I thought some people had build quality issues with SP120's or is that just the luck of the draw? And is it true that H100 and H100i perform like top end air but noisier, and wouldn't that be cancelled out with better fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for all the questions but i've been sifting through lots of stuff online about people saying "get away from AIO coolers" and "H100i is better than H100" and not saying why


They are noisy only due to their stock fans. Replace those and you are fine. H100i is a few c better btw. H110 is by far the best! It even beats my H220.


----------



## Buxty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> They are noisy only due to their stock fans. Replace those and you are fine. H100i is a few c better btw. H110 is by far the best! It even beats my H220.


Yeah i would like a H110 but its over double what the refurb is. I imagine even if i get 6-9 months out of it, it would likely be worth 40 pounds. Hows the H220 to work with? Have you expanded it at all?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Yeah i would like a H110 but its over double what the refurb is. I imagine even if i get 6-9 months out of it, it would likely be worth 40 pounds. Hows the H220 to work with? Have you expanded it at all?


A pain to install. Very loud. Too heavy. Bulky. Pump kept cutting out. Poorly made block. Tubing too long and prone to kinking. Horrid! This is my personal experience.


----------



## CannedBullets

So for radiators how well does an SP120 Quiet Edition compare to the Noctua NF-F12? I'm content with my NF-F12s but I'm just curious.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So for radiators how well does an SP120 Quiet Edition compare to the Noctua NF-F12? I'm content with my NF-F12s but I'm just curious.


NF wins by a few c.


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> NF wins by a few c.


can I put NF on both side of H80? I want to put it but I make little of noise. is that true.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> can I put NF on both side of H80? I want to put it but I make little of noise. is that true.


Yes you can and yes it will increase the noise levels, but they do include LNA's.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Yes you can and yes it will increase the noise levels, but they do include LNA's.


The NF-F12s are quieter than the stock fans though.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> I'm my bios, it says cpu fan speed is 2350rpm, I'm assuming that's the pump? It's reading 57c in bios as well.
> 
> tappin from the Nexus 4


OK ... I'm stumped, the whole unit worked great, then suddenly there was a large rise (20-30c) in both idle and load temps. The radiator is clean, the fans are turning, the pump is "turning" and not making cavitation like noise's (bios 2350rpm), there is fluid (it's AIO) and you found no leaks, the only thing left is a loose mount, you said you didn't think that was the problem, BUT in fact did you try remounting it as suggested earlier just to be sure?

RMA's are so painless with Corsair, I guess it doesn't matter, but I'd sure be interested in what part of the system failed








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Do you guys think it'd be worth picking up a H100 refurb with 90day warranty for 40GBP as a replacement to my Hyper 212 EVO?


Depends on your current or future overclocks and possible platform upgrades? How high are your current load temps with the FX-8120? Is your FX throttling when you overclock higher? If so read RGone's comments *[HERE post #7]* he's pretty sharp as I remember him from our DFI/DFI Street days. AMD has a funky way of reading CPU temps and a simple fan on the socket area can help a lot.

Personally if your just doing moderate to the low end of high overclocks AND your ambients are reasonable I'd stick with the 212 ... but the H100 @ that price "could" be a nice compromise solution for future upgrades unless you see your self going for a full custom-loop









As far as the refurb 90 day warranty







I think most would be fine depending on your location and shipping as it seems either you get a "Like New" perfectly functioning H100 or you get one that leaks or rattle's right out of the box maybe 10%??? of the time.

I love my H100 for what I do, I would never go back to high end air-cooling or see any reason to upgrade without maybe going back to a higher maintenance C-Loop ... see previous posts for all the reasons most of us made the switch ...
My H100 has been performing the same, Trouble Free since the day I got it new almost 2 years ago








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> I thought some people had build quality issues with SP120's or is that just the luck of the draw? And is it true that H100 and H100i perform like top end air but noisier, and wouldn't that be cancelled out with better fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for all the questions but i've been sifting through lots of stuff online about people saying "get away from AIO coolers" and "H100i is better than H100" and not saying why


No problems with the newer SP120's w/H100i that problem has been solved for several months.
H100/H100i will perform slightly better than top end air depending on your overclocks. Apples to apples comparison will have The H100i outperforming the H100 3-4c mostly due to a re-engineered micro-channeling of the cooling block. True the H100/H100i can be louder depending on how high your overclocks are but can be made quieter with AM fans "If even necessary?" again depending on your OC/personal noise acuity / setup ... etc etc

Most important I would spend most of my time reading/researching this thread at OCN ... I read a lot of nonsense and fanboy replies at "most" other sights








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> A pain to install. Very loud. Too heavy. Bulky. Pump kept cutting out. Poorly made block. Tubing too long and prone to kinking. Horrid! This is my personal experience.


That's an interesting and probably "honest" evaluation as I think you've owned both the H100i and H220 ...








Martin (Liquid Lab) really likes the H220 over the H100i for sound/performance *[HERE]* and it sounded like they got all the pump/contaminated fluid problems solved since the initial release. And I like the idea of being able to "custom size" (cut to fit) tubing depending on your setup








But then again I think I would choose the H110 (like you







) over the H220 (pricey$$$) if I were sticking with AIO's and not going expanded/custom loop


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> The NF-F12s are quieter than the stock fans though.


should I use LNA with or w/o on NF12 on H80? is it enough for 4770k (4.4ghz or 4.5ghz)?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> The NF-F12s are quieter than the stock fans though.


I never said otherwise.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I think I will just connect rpm sensor into other fan header and AP-15 fan header into CPu header ( using y splitter). wil that works?


You don't need a Y_Splitter for two reasons.

1. Using a Y-splitter will double the wattage your fans are pulling from the CPU_FAN header. Personally, I wouldn't recommend that.

2. Your motherboard already has two CPU_FAN headers. One is OPT_CPU (optional CPU FAN). Since you already have two cpu fan headers, why bother with a splitter?

My motherboard also has the same two cpu fan headers and I use them both. The only difference is that you are using 3-pin fans that will run at 100% RPM all the time, and I'm using PWM 4-pin fans that will change their RPM depending on the temperature of the cpu.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> The waterblock should use the CPU_FAN header and your other fans use the CPU_OPT. The point of doing this is so if your pump fails the CPU RPM will fall below a "normal" threshhold and generally warn you and/or shut down your system to prevent overheating.


You can usually set the BIOS to warn you if any fan fails (depending on the motherboard). Also, the temperature will spike so quickly that the system will shut down if the pump is not working. I have tested this so I know it works. In fact, in many instances you can even set the shut down temperature.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> how do I control 2 xAP15 fans with H80 cooler?


Just plug them into the block. If it's an H80, you can use the button on the block to change the RPM operating range for the fans, if it's an H80i, you may be able to control them through the Link software.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Do you guys think it'd be worth picking up a H100 refurb with 90day warranty for 40GBP as a replacement to my Hyper 212 EVO?


I wouldn't purchase a Corsair Hydrocooler without the 5 year warranty they come with new. If you still get the 5 Year Corsair warranty then sure.

One of my buddies has the H110 and he loves it. We had zero issues installing it, and it's been working like a charm ever since. Also, it's no louder than my H100 with Scythe fans.


----------



## rickyman0319

If I put both Ap-15 into cpu fan and cpu fan opt header. where do I put the rpm sensor on the motherboard?

which one is better for me?

put fans into the block or just put on the fan header?


----------



## sWaY20

I've got the rma email for my h100i, when I send in the unit, do I send in the brackets and fans as well? Basically everything that was included in the box?


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> I've got the rma email for my h100i, when I send in the unit, do I send in the brackets and fans as well? Basically everything that was included in the box?


yes, you return EVERYTHING. unless otherwise stated.


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> OK ... I'm stumped, the whole unit worked great, then suddenly there was a large rise (20-30c) in both idle and load temps. The radiator is clean, the fans are turning, the pump is "turning" and not making cavitation like noise's (bios 2350rpm), there is fluid (it's AIO) and you found no leaks, the only thing left is a loose mount, you said you didn't think that was the problem, BUT in fact did you try remounting it as suggested earlier just to be sure?
> 
> RMA's are so painless with Corsair, I guess it doesn't matter, but I'd sure be interested in what part of the system failed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Depends on your current or future overclocks and possible platform upgrades? How high are your current load temps with the FX-8120? Is your FX throttling when you overclock higher? If so read RGone's comments *[HERE post #7]* he's pretty sharp as I remember him from our DFI/DFI Street days. AMD has a funky way of reading CPU temps and a simple fan on the socket area can help a lot.
> 
> Personally if your just doing moderate to the low end of high overclocks AND your ambients are reasonable I'd stick with the 212 ... but the H100 @ that price "could" be a nice compromise solution for future upgrades unless you see your self going for a full custom-loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as the refurb 90 day warranty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think most would be fine depending on your location and shipping as it seems either you get a "Like New" perfectly functioning H100 or you get one that leaks or rattle's right out of the box maybe 10%??? of the time.
> 
> I love my H100 for what I do, I would never go back to high end air-cooling or see any reason to upgrade without maybe going back to a higher maintenance C-Loop ... see previous posts for all the reasons most of us made the switch ...
> My H100 has been performing the same, Trouble Free since the day I got it new almost 2 years ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No problems with the newer SP120's w/H100i that problem has been solved for several months.
> H100/H100i will perform slightly better than top end air depending on your overclocks. Apples to apples comparison will have The H100i outperforming the H100 3-4c mostly due to a re-engineered micro-channeling of the cooling block. True the H100/H100i can be louder depending on how high your overclocks are but can be made quieter with AM fans "If even necessary?" again depending on your OC/personal noise acuity / setup ... etc etc
> 
> Most important I would spend most of my time reading/researching this thread at OCN ... I read a lot of nonsense and fanboy replies at "most" other sights
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's an interesting and probably "honest" evaluation as I think you've owned both the H100i and H220 ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Martin (Liquid Lab) really likes the H220 over the H100i for sound/performance *[HERE]* and it sounded like they got all the pump/contaminated fluid problems solved since the initial release. And I like the idea of being able to "custom size" (cut to fit) tubing depending on your setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But then again I think I would choose the H110 (like you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) over the H220 (pricey$$$) if I were sticking with AIO's and not going expanded/custom loop


I know I'm stumped too, I took off the rad from the top of my case and fans. Cleaned very thoroughly of any dust which wasn't much. Checked wires again, unplugged and plugged back in just in case. Turned back on and my idle temp was instantly higher than its been by a few Celsius. I'm going to take it completely off in the morning and check the mount, paste etc...


----------



## Buxty

Thanks for the tips guys, it does seem that the majority of people do get opened box H100's sold as refurbs and i've even heard of Corsair dealing with some of the RMA's if it goes wrong within 90 days so i guess its luck of the draw










Should have mine by Wednesday/Thursday


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Thanks for the tips guys, it does seem that the majority of people do get opened box H100's sold as refurbs and i've even heard of Corsair dealing with some of the RMA's if it goes wrong within 90 days so i guess its luck of the draw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should have mine by Wednesday/Thursday


I have the H100, and my fans run at the low setting all the time, gaming or idle. And it is fairly quiet. But they do get quite audible and annoying at medium or high settings. Quieter fans would help if you wanted to keep on anything except low.

At 4.5Ghz on my 8120, Gaming doesnt reach higher than 50C with the fans set to low. Thats my results, anyway,


----------



## Buxty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I have the H100, and my fans run at the low setting all the time, gaming or idle. And it is fairly quiet. But they do get quite audible and annoying at medium or high settings. Quieter fans would help if you wanted to keep on anything except low.
> 
> At 4.5Ghz on my 8120, Gaming doesnt reach higher than 50C with the fans set to low. Thats my results, anyway,


Thats awesome, my Hyper gives me 4.3Ghz on a cool day







But i wanted something neater and quieter. I'll likely put some AP-15's on it when i can.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Thats awesome, my Hyper gives me 4.3Ghz on a cool day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But i wanted something neater and quieter. I'll likely put some AP-15's on it when i can.


That should keep it a bit quieter on the higher speed settings. But I've been able to keep mine under 55C in Arkansas summers during gaming at just the Low setting


----------



## Buxty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> That should keep it a bit quieter on the higher speed settings. But I've been able to keep mine under 55C in Arkansas summers during gaming at just the Low setting


Thats good to know, i was worried from all the crap online saying that the H100 was awful and wouldn't be worth it. But for that money i can't say no really!


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Thats good to know, i was worried from all the crap online saying that the H100 was awful and wouldn't be worth it. But for that money i can't say no really!


If you need any extra help with installing it, give me a PM.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Thats awesome, my Hyper gives me 4.3Ghz on a cool day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But i wanted something neater and quieter. I'll likely put some AP-15's on it when i can.


I'd go with SP120's or NF F12's rather than AP-15.


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I'd go with SP120's or NF F12's rather than AP-15.


Why is that? like Buxty I've ordered myself one and from what I've seen the AP-15s are quieter and better performing than the SP120s


----------



## Buxty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Why is that? like Buxty I've ordered myself one and from what I've seen the AP-15s are quieter and better performing than the SP120s


Also heard a bit about the air leakage due to the design of the fans not being totally squared off.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Why is that? like Buxty I've ordered myself one and from what I've seen the AP-15s are quieter and better performing than the SP120s


The pressure was tested on the AP-15 on how effective the air is pushed through obstructions without any obstructions on the other side of the fan, which increases the results. Noctua and Corsair tend to do more vigorous testing which matches real world environments.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Also heard a bit about the air leakage due to the design of the fans not being totally squared off.


SP120 is 0.5c behind a NF F12 (But much louder) so the air leakage does not really become any cause for concern under real world use.


----------



## wthenshaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> The pressure was tested on the AP-15 on how effective the air is pushed through obstructions without any obstructions on the other side of the fan, which increases the results. Noctua and Corsair tend to do more vigorous testing which matches real world environments.


Elaborate please?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Elaborate please?


Ask Corsair, Noctua and Scythe for official testing procedures. They can tell you this more in depth.


----------



## senna89

*A QUESTION :*

the inability to do maintenance in the plant makes these products subject to consume or breaking ?
I read that if you do not use the PC for some period of time somethings may stagnation, so it's better not to use these kits if you do not always use the pc and is not good as durability.


----------



## _TRU_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> yes, you return EVERYTHING. unless otherwise stated.


afaik you are NOT supposed to return accessories (in this case screws & brackets) just the unit itself. that's what i did when i sent in my H60


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> The pressure was tested on the AP-15 on how effective the air is pushed through obstructions without any obstructions on the other side of the fan, which increases the results. Noctua and Corsair tend to do more vigorous testing which matches real world environments.
> SP120 is 0.5c behind a NF F12 (But much louder) so the air leakage does not really become any cause for concern under real world use.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wthenshaw*
> 
> Elaborate please?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Ask Corsair, Noctua and Scythe for official testing procedures. They can tell you this more in depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Fans Fans Fans and the "personal/subjective" debate on which is the best aftermarket fan? If you find your stock fans are to noisy for your overclock's/workloads then any of the fans mentioned above would be an improvement ... so really it comes down to personal taste and 1-3c maybe









Rather than contacting each manufacturer independently, which are NOT bound by an industry standard for performce/noise levels with radiators, then the next best thing is real world comparisons, something we do here daily. I read a lot of reviews, BUT the most honest comprehensive real world review I've read comes from Martin's Liquid Lab. If you read the review(s) in it's entirety, he even gets into the nuances of "Noise Quality"







All of the above fans are compared on equal footing *[HERE]*









Personally I don't think anyone would be displeased with any of the above choices, it becomes more of a question of Price$ / Looks







/ and possibly control (PWM). But I also don't think enough people take the time to "fine tune" their stock fan's rpm's / overclock and most common workloads to find an acceptable balance







... too many just install, set their overclock and then fire up P95 / IBT and say wholly crap those fans are load, I've got to replace them









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> *A QUESTION :*
> 
> the inability to do maintenance in the plant makes these products subject to consume or breaking ?
> I read that if you do not use the PC for some period of time somethings may stagnation, so it's better not to use these kits if you do not always use the pc and is not good as durability.


I agree, AIO's are more of an aftermarket "enthusiast" component ... and in an environment where there may be a lack of attention and/or maintenance I would go with a good quality AIR HSF for industrial applications








But don't confuse AIO's (self contained units) with higher end custom loops where "stagnation" or loss of fluid "could"? occur with time and NO maintenance for long periods. The AIO's are "suppose" to be maintenance free, but in reality I regularly check for leaks, variations in load temps, pump rpm/fan rpm








A good quality Air HSF has much less to go wrong with, and most would even operate within tolerance if the fan(s) were to fail with adequate case ventilation and/or tolerable ambients


----------



## _TRU_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I agree, AIO's are more of an aftermarket "enthusiast" component ... and in an environment where there may be a lack of attention and/or maintenance I would go with a good quality air HSF for industrial applications
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But don't confuse AIO's (self contained units) with higher end custom loops where "stagnation" or loss of fluid "could"? occur with time and NO maintenance for long periods of time. The AIO's are "suppose"? to be maintenance free


i use an H60 with 2x BitFenix Spectre Pro 120mm Fan - All White. I was going to use a full loop, but since i have a "curious" kid, i don't want to come home to a fried computer & a bunch of fluid on the floor.


----------



## SpDFreaK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> *A QUESTION :*
> 
> the inability to do maintenance in the plant makes these products subject to consume or breaking ?
> I read that if you do not use the PC for some period of time somethings may stagnation, so it's better not to use these kits if you do not always use the pc and is not good as durability.


Most AIO coolers sold today use a corrosion inhibitor to keep things in check. The use of propylene glycol as a coolant along with the mixture of aluminum radiators and copper cold plates requires it or they would corrode very quickly. From manufacture to distribution they are in storage for anywhere between 4 to 10 weeks roughly. They can withstand not being used very often without a concern for durability. Normal temp storage range is -20c to 50c typically. Storage outside of that temperature range may have some adverse effects on the unit.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> If I put both Ap-15 into cpu fan and cpu fan opt header. where do I put the rpm sensor on the motherboard?
> 
> which one is better for me?
> 
> put fans into the block or just put on the fan header?


You should have other fan headers such as Chassis FAN and PWR FAN.

Honestly, any of the methods mentioned here will work. I just personally don't like doubling up fans on a single fan header, so I don't use Y-cables unless they're for PWM fans.

Is there some reason why you don't want to plug the fans into your H80 CPU block/pump?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> I know I'm stumped too, I took off the rad from the top of my case and fans. Cleaned very thoroughly of any dust which wasn't much. Checked wires again, unplugged and plugged back in just in case. Turned back on and my idle temp was instantly higher than its been by a few Celsius. I'm going to take it completely off in the morning and check the mount, paste etc...


Is there any way for you to check if there is still lots of liquid in the cooler (weighing it by hand (estimating) or shaking it)? If the pump seems to be operating, and the fans are good, I wonder if there is enough coolant? Perhaps some snuck out a leak somewhere.

How is the rad temp? Does it get warm?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I'd go with SP120's or NF F12's rather than AP-15.


I wish Scythe would make some PWM APs. There was one model of AP that could be modded for PWM:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1045524/gentle-typhoon-pwm-mod

Alas, AP-30 though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Ask Corsair, Noctua and Scythe for official testing procedures. They can tell you this more in depth.


People don't generally go by Scythe testing for AP-15 fans, they usually go with community testing. In community testing, again and again, Scythe APs have taken top spots for noise vs performance (as have Yate Loons for budget fans with the best noise vs performance).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_TRU_*
> 
> afaik you are NOT supposed to return accessories (in this case screws & brackets) just the unit itself. that's what i did when i sent in my H60


When an acquaintance of mine RMAd an H70, he was told to include everything. Better safe than sorry.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_TRU_*
> 
> afaik you are NOT supposed to return accessories (in this case screws & brackets) just the unit itself. that's what i did when i sent in my H60


Just went through with another h100i RMA. All they want you to send back is the main unit and the fans, they don't care about the rest.


----------



## zefs

Thumbs up to corsair support once more, I sent a defective H80 to them and they sent me a H80i after my request. Keep it up Corsair!


----------



## 298703

I may be having the worst day today. After 540 issues, i checked temps on my CPU from a new h100i and my idle temps are 40C.....
Running AP-15's down volted to 7V.

This cant be normal right?

I hope its not an issue that requires an RMA. Ive already got too much down time. Could it be a mounting problem?

EDIT: I looked at the manual closer and thankfully, it looks as though the backplate has an orientation and checked how ive mounted it and its definitely wrong. Ill update and see if temps are better tomorrow.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WuMyster*
> 
> I may be having the worst day today. After 540 issues, i checked temps on my CPU from a new h100i and my idle temps are 40C.....
> Running AP-15's down volted to 7V.
> 
> This cant be normal right?
> 
> I hope its not an issue that requires an RMA. Ive already got too much down time. Could it be a mounting problem?
> 
> EDIT: I looked at the manual closer and thankfully, it looks as though the backplate has an orientation and checked how ive mounted it and its definitely wrong. Ill update and see if temps are better tomorrow.


You need to make sure that the H100i is perfectly installed onto the CPU block otherwise you won't have good contact.


----------



## 298703

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> You need to make sure that the H100i is perfectly installed onto the CPU block otherwise you won't have good contact.


Yeah mate, I was wondering how temps were so bad and it must have been the block contact. Hoping itll be sorted tomorrow. GPU temps have risen with the new case so I dont want any more rising temps.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WuMyster*
> 
> Yeah mate, I was wondering how temps were so bad and it must have been the block contact. Hoping itll be sorted tomorrow. GPU temps have risen with the new case so I dont want any more rising temps.


So the new case has made the temps rise? Maybe you could start a new thread and send me the link so I can help you out. Also, I bet the H100i is installed wrong by the sounds of it.








I've owned 3 H100i's for personal use and they do require a good installation to see best results. I've also had the H220 and I am using the H110 as we speak


----------



## 298703

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> So the new case has made the temps rise? Maybe you could start a new thread and send me the link so I can help you out. Also, I bet the H100i is installed wrong by the sounds of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've owned 3 H100i's for personal use and they do require a good installation to see best results. I've also had the H220 and I am using the H110 as we speak


No doubt is it installed wrong haha! Actually relieved! Looks like a lot of people are having the issue of not placing the backplate on correctly which causes bad temps.

Ill start a new thread and link you then!

EDIT: Link to the thread http://www.overclock.net/t/1420326/worse-temps-in-better-case/0_100


----------



## zefs

The backplate on my H80i was loose when I installed it, does that mean I have placed it wrong as well? The temps are 43min - 70max (fans @ 1700rpm) - 2500k @ 4.5(2.6v). Although I suppose it's fine since I was getting 75-77c max with the H80.


----------



## kokpa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zefs*
> 
> Thumbs up to corsair support once more, I sent a defective H80 to them and they sent me a H80i after my request. Keep it up Corsair!


How did you manage to get h80i after having h80? I requested that by my first RMA of h80 and now I'm having problems with my second h80 fan controller seems to be broken. Isn't there a way that corsair send you new unit and you send them back old after receiving new unit and free of shipping? Second unit, very disappointed. It' s just to much for me to pay again 20EUR for shipping to them fault unit.


----------



## zefs

I just asked if it was possible to sent me a H80i instead, I got no reply but they did send it. The fan headers got defective on mine and also the first led wasn't litting up, I had it for 2 years though.
Try to reset the firmware(google on how to), maybe it will solve your issue.


----------



## kokpa

I tried to reset it many times and it doesn't work or I'm just doing something wrong. Does anyone now how to reach for a george from corsair on this site?


----------



## Beatwolf

Just moved my tower back down to the floor. Now I notice a pretty loud sound, its not the fans because the sound is different, and I think it´s not any of the case fans either, could it be the radiator? This sound is pretty loud and definitely wasn´t there before.. any ideas?


----------



## zefs

Send him a PM: http://www.overclock.net/u/158841/corsairgeorge


----------



## senna89

excuse me i saw the Corsair Support Forum and in the section "cooling" there are many problems and all about H80i / H100i, specially for its pump.

The owners of this H100i or H80i ever had some problems ? the pump of this series is subject to break or failure ? not reability models ?


----------



## TomcatV

So I was looking at purchasing a delided 3770K with CoolLaboratory Ultra TIM for a recent build as you can get them dirt cheap if you know what your getting into ... anyway one thing lead to another and I thought you guys might be interested in reading more about CoolLaboratory Ultra and Pro not only in re-attaching the IHS but how well it is working with "tw33k's" H100/3770K, "So Far"? anyway







... Although very tempting to go with a liquid metal TIM on all heatsinks (except aluminum) ... I however am NOT going to go with CLU/CLP on the H100 block until more time (another 6mos?) goes by








SEE *[HERE]*

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpDFreaK*
> 
> Most AIO coolers sold today use a corrosion inhibitor to keep things in check. The use of propylene glycol as a coolant along with the mixture of aluminum radiators and copper cold plates requires it or they would corrode very quickly. From manufacture to distribution they are in storage for anywhere between 4 to 10 weeks roughly. They can withstand not being used very often without a concern for durability. Normal temp storage range is -20c to 50c typically. Storage outside of that temperature range may have some adverse effects on the unit.


Well said









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I wish Scythe would make some PWM APs. There was one model of AP that could be modded for PWM:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1045524/gentle-typhoon-pwm-mod
> 
> Alas, AP-30 though.
> People don't generally go by Scythe testing for AP-15 fans, they usually go with community testing. In community testing, again and again, Scythe APs have taken top spots for noise vs performance (as have Yate Loons for budget fans with the best noise vs performance).
> When an acquaintance of mine RMAd an H70, he was told to include everything. Better safe than sorry.


Interesting Link/Read +R









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WuMyster*
> 
> I may be having the worst day today. After 540 issues, i checked temps on my CPU from a new h100i and my idle temps are 40C.....
> Running AP-15's down volted to 7V.
> 
> This cant be normal right?
> 
> I hope its not an issue that requires an RMA. Ive already got too much down time. Could it be a mounting problem?
> 
> EDIT: I looked at the manual closer and thankfully, it looks as though the backplate has an orientation and checked how ive mounted it and its definitely wrong. Ill update and see if temps are better tomorrow.


Yep, happens more than you might think ... and the terminology describing it can be confusing, pictures are worth a 1K words in this case ... see *[HERE]*

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zefs*
> 
> The backplate on my H80i was loose when I installed it, does that mean I have placed it wrong as well? The temps are 43min - 70max (fans @ 1700rpm) - 2500k @ 4.5(2.6v). Although I suppose it's fine since I was getting 75-77c max with the H80.


Your temps look fine if that is a stress test w/P95 and you have average ambient temps (20c-24c?)
Your vCore ???







.... must be a typo








If the freeplay in your backplate bothers you, some guys will shim it with "NON-conductive" washers or spacers, but it is not always necessary









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> Just moved my tower back down to the floor. Now I notice a pretty loud sound, its not the fans because the sound is different, and I think it´s not any of the case fans either, could it be the radiator? This sound is pretty loud and definitely wasn´t there before.. any ideas?


What kind of sound? ... Radiators typically don't make any noise unless a badly unbalanced fan is vibrating against it. ... If everything is operating properly, including temps, I would double check all my fans for looseness and vibration.


----------



## Buxty

Just got my refurb H100 all fitted and working, and its pretty damn good if im honest. Looking at about ten degrees difference on this with the lowest setting compared with my Hyper 212 on its highest speed









Definatly getting some new fans though! These push some mad air but get a tad loud.


----------



## Beatwolf

Yeah it was me being ******ed. On the raven r02 the fan controllers are inside the case and i had accidentially hit one of them while moving it making one of the huge bottom fans run at full speed, and they sound like a tank when at that speed....i feel stupid now


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Just got my refurb H100 all fitted and working, and its pretty damn good if im honest. Looking at about ten degrees difference on this with the lowest setting compared with my Hyper 212 on its highest speed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Definatly getting some new fans though! These push some mad air but get a tad loud.


Glad to see you got it installed without any hiccups. And you're right those fans can move some air, but better wear ear plugs if you set them to full. haha


----------



## Buxty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Glad to see you got it installed without any hiccups. And you're right those fans can move some air, but better wear ear plugs if you set them to full. haha


Im actually really impressed...im used to loud fans not moving air but these crank it out!. Mounting was nice and easy, not as nice looking as the intel mounts but AMD has a nice backplate setup.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Im actually really impressed...im used to loud fans not moving air but these crank it out!. Mounting was nice and easy, not as nice looking as the intel mounts but AMD has a nice backplate setup.


I agree, Although I still would've prefered a mount similar to the Intel one, instead of just the 2 clips. 1 on top and bottom, but it works as it is.

I honestly still dont know how tight is too tight for those screws, haha


----------



## Buxty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I agree, Although I still would've prefered a mount similar to the Intel one, instead of just the 2 clips. 1 on top and bottom, but it works as it is.
> 
> I honestly still dont know how tight is too tight for those screws, haha


I went with the old "screwdriver tight, but not so much so it bends the mounts".

Have to say its pretty self explanatory to fit which i like. Good mark for Corsair there.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> I went with the old "screwdriver tight, but not so much so it bends the mounts".
> 
> Have to say its pretty self explanatory to fit which i like. Good mark for Corsair there.


I went with a similar method. Just a bit passed finger tight on mine seems solid.


----------



## Buxty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I went with a similar method. Just a bit passed finger tight on mine seems solid.


Only thing that confuses me, is that it can handle four fans on the unit, but only includes the hardware to fit two.


----------



## zefs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> Your temps look fine if that is a stress test w/P95 and you have average ambient temps (20c-24c?)
> Your vCore ???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... must be a typo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the freeplay in your backplate bothers you, some guys will shim it with "NON-conductive" washers or spacers, but it is not always necessary


The temp report was with 3 runs of Intel Burn Test. Sorry for the type, vCore was at 1.26V.
The backplate is fine.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Only thing that confuses me, is that it can handle four fans on the unit, but only includes the hardware to fit two.


Same thing I was disappointed about discovering. The long screws which I found were best for mounting the fans, only came with 8? And the same for the shorter screws with the washers, only 8.


----------



## Buxty

Yeah bit odd....


----------



## Sprkd1

I don't know if my H100 has an issue or if it working fine. I originally had a GTX 560 Ti 448 Cores and the max temp during Battlefield 3 was around 47 C on my stock 3930K. Now I have a GTX TITAN and my max temp is around 55 C. Is this due to increased CPU utilization from the GPU upgrade?

Secondly, with IntelBurnTest set to the maximum stress level, the core temps range between 67 and 73 C max after one complete run. Is this normal for a stock 3930K with an H100? Seems quite high.

When I originally build this PC in January, 2012, I think the temps during IntelBurnTest and Prime95 were lower. Unfortunately, I cannot confirm that.

So, are these temps normal? I have the H100 set to the max fan speed setting.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sprkd1*
> 
> Secondly, with IntelBurnTest set to the maximum stress level, the core temps range between 67 and 73 C max after one complete run. Is this normal for a stock 3930K with an H100? Seems quite high.
> 
> When I originally build this PC in January, 2012, I think the temps during IntelBurnTest and Prime95 were lower. Unfortunately, I cannot confirm that.
> 
> So, are these temps normal? I have the H100 set to the max fan speed setting.


how long since you cleaned the rad? whats your ambients?


----------



## Sprkd1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> how long since you cleaned the rad? whats your ambients?


Just cleaned my whole PC few days ago including the rad. Ambient temps are 22-23 C.

I didn't remove the CPU block, just moved the rad as far as possible out of the case and wiped/blew it with compressed air. It looks brand new.


----------



## senna89

*How long is the SATA cable of H100i ???*


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> *How long is the SATA cable of H100i ???*


Couple inches, enough to get over the top of the mobo to power it in the back of the case.


----------



## jktmas

finally got around to re wiring when i got my new 1Ter Barracuda, i think it looks much better. next on my list is to get a better graphics card, sleeved cables, an ssd, new fans, and a kracken X60


----------



## davidm71

Hi,

Just wanted to share my experience installing the h100i and gigabyte ud5h motherboard. There is definitely about 2-3 mm of slack between the backplate and the fastening bolt. Only way to fix it was to buffer the space on the back of the board with four rubber 'anti-vibration' hard drive washers that I had in my toolbox.

Also the manual mixes up Amd and Intel mounting bolts. Someone at Corsair better get a clue! Even the online install blogs are vague.


----------



## adam2104

I've got an H110 on the way for my Z87-Pro / 4770k build. Anything specific I should be looking out for? I've read a few threads about people complaining of loose mounting brackets on some motherboards?


----------



## senna89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> *How long is the SATA cable of H100i ???*


Can you tell me in centimeter please ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> Couple inches, enough to get over the top of the mobo to power it in the back of the case.


2 inch ? 5cm ?


----------



## Beatwolf

its not very long. Max 20cm I would say. Had to drag it accross the motherboard and run it underneath the GFX, they should definetly have made it longer.


----------



## 298703

Redone the mounting an temps arent much better. 28C lowest.
Is this okay?


----------



## SpDFreaK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> Can you tell me in centimeter please ?
> 2 inch ? 5cm ?


25.5 cm from the housing of the unit to the start of the SATA connector. Total in length from the housing to the end of the SATA connector was 28 cm.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zefs*
> 
> The temp report was with 3 runs of Intel Burn Test. Sorry for the type, vCore was at 1.26V.
> The backplate is fine.


Decent temps - low 70's, nice OC [email protected]*1.26v*







... Can't really comment further without confirming Ambients and more info on IBT settings ... screenshots are invaluable see *[HERE]*
Did you end up shimming your backplate or not? Adam2104 below, might be interested








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sprkd1*
> 
> I don't know if my H100 has an issue or if it working fine. I originally had a GTX 560 Ti 448 Cores and the max temp during Battlefield 3 was around 47 C on my stock 3930K. Now I have a GTX TITAN and my max temp is around 55 C. Is this due to increased CPU utilization from the GPU upgrade?
> 
> Secondly, with IntelBurnTest set to the maximum stress level, the core temps range between 67 and 73 C max after one complete run. Is this normal for a stock 3930K with an H100? Seems quite high.
> When I originally build this PC in January, 2012, I think the temps during IntelBurnTest and Prime95 were lower. Unfortunately, I cannot confirm that.
> 
> So, are these temps normal? I have the H100 set to the max fan speed setting.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sprkd1*
> 
> Just cleaned my whole PC few days ago including the rad. Ambient temps are 22-23 C.
> 
> I didn't remove the CPU block, just moved the rad as far as possible out of the case and wiped/blew it with compressed air. It looks brand new.
Click to expand...

This is strange ... are you sure your comparing apples to apples? I.E. same ambients/same case fans (speeds) and most importantly was your comparison done with a BF3 benchmark and not just general gaming?







... I doubt a 7c rise is due solely to CPU utilization within the same program, BF3 will utilize the same amount of cores no matter the GPU, maybe it's a combination of that along with the Titan possibly putting more heat into the case in general? ... but I believe it's due to different stress apps within BF3 or different ambients?

Your IBT stress test's do seem high for stock clocks at those ambients but remember your SB-E is a 6core 130w processor and others seem to show a wide variety in consistent load temps with that particular chip? IDKW







... In any case those temps are fine BUT that's why it is important to do stress testing with consistent parameter's at installation for baseline comparisons ... see my link above or in my sig









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> finally got around to re wiring when i got my new 1Ter Barracuda, i think it looks much better. next on my list is to get a better graphics card, sleeved cables, an ssd, new fans, and a kracken X60


Looks nice! Curious why you chose the X60 over the H110? Because it's on sale at Newegg $108







or because of the software? Because the H110 will outperform the X60 hands down if you want to keep your sanity Noise Wise







... nice review *[HERE]*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adam2104*
> 
> I've got an H110 on the way for my Z87-Pro / 4770k build. Anything specific I should be looking out for? I've read a few threads about people complaining of loose mounting brackets on some motherboards?


Nope ... Nice choice







... If the bracket is slightly loose and it bugs you just shim it as described in previous posts







... Maybe check the compatibility with your case, see 1st page and *[HERE]* for if the fan hole spacing matches up, 15mm vs 20mm fan mount spacing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WuMyster*
> 
> I may be having the worst day today. After 540 issues, i checked temps on my CPU from a new h100i and my *idle temps are 40C*.....
> Running AP-15's down volted to 7V
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WuMyster*
> 
> Redone the mounting an temps aren't much better. *28C lowest*.
> Is this okay?
Click to expand...

Well I'd say a -12c improvement is pretty good







...
But in reality it's your load temps that really matter so take a look at my sig for posting or *[HERE]*


----------



## 298703

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Well I'd say a -12c improvement is pretty good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> But in reality it's your load temps that really matter so take a look at my sig for posting or *[HERE]*


Sorry about the lack of info. I was actually on my mobile while posting. I will do somemore testing tomorrow though.


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Just wanted to share my experience installing the h100i and gigabyte ud5h motherboard. There is definitely about 2-3 mm of slack between the backplate and the fastening bolt. Only way to fix it was to buffer the space on the back of the board with four rubber 'anti-vibration' hard drive washers that I had in my toolbox.
> 
> Also the manual mixes up Amd and Intel mounting bolts. Someone at Corsair better get a clue! Even the online install blogs are vague.


With the slack, does the block still press down lightly against the CPU though? My H100 has a tiny bit of this slack too but it seems to cool ok. I might try to get rid of it by adding washers too, but I dont want to press down too hard and crack my core on a de-lidded 3570k.

I just bought an H100i since it was $15 off at Newegg today, I currently have an H100 non-i. I am going to try and daisy chain the radiators together. I know I saw someone else here who had done it with I think it was a pair of H80's or something like that. As I have never really done water cooling before, how would I go about trying to link up the radiators? Do I just pull off the hoses from on and connect them up? How do I make sure there are no air bubbles in the lines?


----------



## rob47ww

Recently upgraded from a h80 to a h100i and it's keeping my CPU @4.5GHz @37 degrees Celsius when idle! It's a great cooler, just a pity I couldn't fit the h110 in my case. :/
Check the link in my sig if you're interested in pics.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> With the slack, does the block still press down lightly against the CPU though? My H100 has a tiny bit of this slack too but it seems to cool ok. I might try to get rid of it by adding washers too, but I dont want to press down too hard and crack my core on a de-lidded 3570k.
> 
> I just bought an H100i since it was $15 off at Newegg today, I currently have an H100 non-i. I am going to try and daisy chain the radiators together. I know I saw someone else here who had done it with I think it was a pair of H80's or something like that. As I have never really done water cooling before, how would I go about trying to link up the radiators? Do I just pull off the hoses from on and connect them up? How do I make sure there are no air bubbles in the lines?


If your IHS is still in place (most guys are) regular pressure won't be a problem wether the backplate is shimmed or not









Your really not going to gain anything by adding another rad, the H100/i pump flow rates are nothing compared to a custom loop pump ... but if you want to just for the experience or maybe Aesthetics! ... then I recommend adding in new tubes and a reservoir 1st or in addition ...
Guys do it all the time








See discussion *HERE* ... some modding tips *HERE* or just search Corsair H100 Mod









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rob47ww*
> 
> Recently upgraded from a h80 to a h100i and it's keeping my CPU @4.5GHz @37 degrees Celsius when idle! It's a great cooler, just a pity I couldn't fit the h110 in my case. :/
> Check the link in my sig if you're interested in pics.


Very nice build log (checked your link) can't believe no-one hasn't rep'd you for it yet ...
So here you go +R









Now lets get the specs on your OC load temps on the same quality/informative level








Idle temps don't tell us much







see *[HERE]*


----------



## zefs

What is best tactic when using exhaust for both fans placed on the back of the case? should one of the fans be outside the case or both inside it?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zefs*
> 
> What is best tactic when using exhaust for both fans placed on the back of the case? should one of the fans be outside the case or both inside it?


The best tactic is divide and conquer...

If you have room in the casing, you can put both fans in the case. You're talking about push/pull fans config on H80i right?


----------



## zefs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> The best tactic is divide and conquer...
> 
> If you have room in the casing, you can put both fans in the case. You're talking about push/pull fans config on H80i right?


lol, yes. There is enough room on the 650D, I was just wondering if putting one fan outside would affect anything.


----------



## senna89

The USB cable of H100i is necessary for the correct function ? Or its only an optional ?
i dont want install too cables or other control softwares in my pc.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zefs*
> 
> lol, yes. There is enough room on the 650D, I was just wondering if putting one fan outside would affect anything.


Don't worry, no effect. The fan grill will effect the air flow a bit which means putting the pull fan outside the case may improve air flow. This is just guessing since I have no data to compare. IMO, better put inside the case, look much cleaner. Cutting the fan grill may improved air flow though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I also found this explanation of Assyle's backplate being mounted "backwards?" just a bit confusing also. So lets clear that up. Some people might take backwards to mean upside down, and unless you look closely or are familiar with mounting Corsair AIO's you might have missed the 2 slight indentations that BangBang is talking about (circled in pic below).
> Soooo ... in Assyle's case, the backplate needed to be *"rotated"* 180 degrees (see pic below)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ Assyle ... I don't think you need to worry about removing the washers to improve load temps as long as the backplate is level, or on plane with the mobo. And don't be afraid to crank down your block using an X-pattern (see manual) as a lot of guys have seen an improvement in temps because their blocks weren't tight enough. I know this is contrary to your previous frustrating experience, but try it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a closeup of what Destrto and BangBang were talking about ... if you look closely you can see the 2 screws at the tip of the arrows (pic below) where the indentations (circled in pic) should be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is not optimal, but it will work. I had to do it with an H60 for a friend. Some will say it "may" cause the gurgling/bubbles noise's, but I haven't found that to be the case.
> 
> 
> You may also consider cutting out your rear fan grill for better airflow depending on your load temps and/or Intake or Exhaust config.


----------



## DUpgrade

^ IF its intake though might want a fan filter to try and keep the dust away.


----------



## senna89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> The USB cable of H100i is necessary for the correct function ? Or its only an optional ?
> i dont want install too cables or other control softwares in my pc.


help ?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> help ?


The usb cable controls the Link function of the H100i, really the only reason why you would get the "i" version over the non "i", besides better performing fans. It is what controls the software you get with the cooler that controls the fan speed, water temps and so on.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> The usb cable controls the Link function of the H100i, really the only reason why you would get the "i" version over the non "i", besides better performing fans. It is what controls the software you get with the cooler that controls the fan speed, water temps and so on.


There are more reasons for getting the i version such as thicker tubing, much better pump block design and the software control. The H100 also looks very ugly compared to the i version.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> There are more reasons for getting the i version such as thicker tubing, much better pump block design and the software control. The H100 also looks very ugly compared to the i version.


Those are more aesthetics, but yes.. I was trying to mention things that would affect performance more than anything.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Those are more aesthetics, but yes.. I was trying to mention things that would affect performance more than anything.


No, the block, pump and tubing all add to the performance.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> No, the block, pump and tubing all add to the performance.


I'm not going to argue with you.. The tubing on either model are the same inner diameter..You might get more flow interruption from corrugated, yes. But amount of fluid is the same.

I'm trying to make the explanation for the other member easy to understand, not start an argument over this by saying "that's wrong, this is wrong. that one was right, but this is wrong too"..


----------



## 298703

Was pretty let down with the idle temps at around 30C.
Ran Prime95 for about 30 mins and the temps have stopped at 57, 60, 60, 56. These are pretty good right?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WuMyster*
> 
> Was pretty let down with the idle temps at around 30C.
> Ran Prime95 for about 30 mins and the temps have stopped at 57, 60, 60, 56. These are pretty good right?


Yes those seem pretty good







...
But why don't you list the other variables















See my sig LINK ... again ... so others may benefit from your experience/stats








Even if you don't post a screenshot at least post your setup (push or pull-intake or exhaust) / cpu / overclock / and ambient temps


----------



## 298703

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Yes those seem pretty good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> But why don't you list the other variables
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See my sig LINK ... again ... so others may benefit from your experience/stats
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you don't post a screenshot at least post your setup (push or pull-intake or exhaust) / cpu / overclock / and ambient temps


Sorry about that, ill be detailed now!








CPU = 3770K @ Stock clocks. Making sure temps are okay before OCing.
Mobo = Gigabyte Z77X-GA-UD4H
RAM = 8GB Corsair Dominators @ 1866mhz Cas 9

Used Prime95 blend for about 30 mins and HW monitor for temps.

Case is the Corsair Air 540 with the H100i in push (intake) with AP-15's down volted to 7V. Thinking of going to 5V and doing push pull.
2 AP-15's down volted to 7V up at the front as intake and the standard AF140L at 7V for outtake.

Temps at idle = Rougly 30C
Temps at load = Rougly 58C


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WuMyster*
> 
> Sorry about that, ill be detailed now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU = 3770K @ Stock clocks. Making sure temps are okay before OCing.
> Mobo = Gigabyte Z77X-GA-UD4H
> RAM = 8GB Corsair Dominators @ 1866mhz Cas 9
> 
> Used Prime95 blend for about 30 mins and HW monitor for temps.
> 
> Case is the Corsair Air 540 with the H100i in push (intake) with AP-15's down volted to 7V. Thinking of going to 5V and doing push pull.
> 2 AP-15's down volted to 7V up at the front as intake and the standard AF140L at 7V for outtake.
> 
> Temps at idle = Rougly 30C
> Temps at load = Rougly 58C


nice temps, maybe. whats your ambient?


----------



## 298703

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> nice temps, maybe. whats your ambient?


Around 22C


----------



## DUpgrade

I get about that with my H80i but summer is ending and as it cools down I'm expecting things to run around 55c load. Until I get my WC loop built.


----------



## SinX7

Which Hydro cooler is the "best" at the moment? Planning to use it on the AMD 8350 or the Intel 4570K.

Thanks!


----------



## DUpgrade

^ Probably the H110 if you can get it to fit.


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> finally got around to re wiring when i got my new 1Ter Barracuda, i think it looks much better. next on my list is to get a better graphics card, sleeved cables, an ssd, new fans, and a kracken X60


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Looks nice! Curious why you chose the X60 over the H110? Because it's on sale at Newegg $108
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or because of the software? Because the H110 will outperform the X60 hands down if you want to keep your sanity Noise Wise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... nice review *[HERE]*


We have an X60 at work and i love the looks of it way more than the H110, plus ive heard so many problems with corsair link and the sabertooth Z77. plus i miss having something NZXT in my system, the NZXT community is great!


----------



## SinX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> ^ Probably the H110 if you can get it to fit.


I'll fit my Shinobi XL lol.

Thanks!


----------



## parollo

Hi guys, first post here! Anyway: right now i got an H80i in my rig, pretty happy about it, but I'd like to know if i can get a bit of an improvement by changing the TIM that came on it with some high grade thermal compond like the Noctua NT-h1, which happens to be on my desk right now.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *parollo*
> 
> Hi guys, first post here! Anyway: right now i got an H80i in my rig, pretty happy about it, but I'd like to know if i can get a bit of an improvement by changing the TIM that came on it with some high grade thermal compond like the Noctua NT-h1, which happens to be on my desk right now.


no. the tim corsair uses is among the best. dont waste your time or the tim.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *parollo*
> 
> Hi guys, first post here! Anyway: right now i got an H80i in my rig, pretty happy about it, but I'd like to know if i can get a bit of an improvement by changing the TIM that came on it with some high grade thermal compond like the Noctua NT-h1, which happens to be on my desk right now.


The stock TIM that comes on H1/80i and the newer H90/110 is Dow corning stuff it's really close to the Shin Etsu. When I remounted my block I did have to clean the stock TIM off it and replaced it with Shin Etsu x23-7783d and found I had the same results as before. It's up to you but there isn't anything wrong with that stuff.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinX7*
> 
> Which Hydro cooler is the "best" at the moment? Planning to use it on the AMD 8350 or the Intel 4570K...Thanks!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SinX7*
> 
> I'll fit my Shinobi XL lol.
> 
> Thanks!
Click to expand...

As DUpgrade said H110 is the best performer ...
BUT @ $59.99 the H100 refurb is the best value








Even with the 90 day warranty







... It's a heck of a deal at the normal $77.99 but right now with the promo code it's an additional $18 off @ the Egg ... wonder how long they will last at that price








See *[HERE]*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> We have an X60 at work and i love the looks of it way more than the H110, *plus ive heard so many problems with corsair link* and the sabertooth Z77. plus i miss having something NZXT in my system, the NZXT community is great!


Well if you read the review or specs for the H110







... You'd know there is NO Corsair Link with the H110 ... it is engineering simplicity based on performance not software frills ... and in all honesty what I prefer







I'm sure you'd be happy with the X60 ... but wouldn't it be fun in an office environment to "rib" your buddy how your H110 outperforms his X60 while being quieter ... QUIETER







... Did you say "Office Environment" ... Hmmmm


----------



## DUpgrade

I wouldn't trust a Hydro cooler with only a 90 day warrenty. When you buy them new you get at least 2 or 3 years just incase the pump fails or if you ever have a leak somehow.


----------



## pc-illiterate

some corsair have 5 year warranty. for example, the h100i. i also wouldnt buy a 90 day warranty. too many have leaked after a few months and killed hardware. definitely not worth the chance of killing a $400 graphics card to save $40-50.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Just wanted to show some final photos off of my 540 with an h100i, super proud of it:




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> some corsair have 5 year warranty. for example, the h100i. i also wouldnt buy a 90 day warranty. too many have leaked after a few months and killed hardware. definitely not worth the chance of killing a $400 graphics card to save $40-50.


Although I agree with your reasoning (one of the best things about a new Hydro cooler is the five year warranty), do you have links to "too many have leaked after a few months and killed hardware"?

I'm asking because I have never seen anyone in this thread say that they purchased a refurb and it leaked.


----------



## TehOnlyMITTENS

You guys think you could help me?

I just got an H100i.

I took out the stock fans and changed them with push/pull Hyperboreas.

I've also delidded my 4770k.

I don't know what my temps were before I delidded, nor the temps before the H100i (stupid, I know.)

My temps right now are....less than impressive.

I'm currently (fairly) stable at 4.5Ghz, 1.33 Vcore

My temps after 1 hour of P95 go like this : Usually ~71C, but one in a while they will jump to ~90C for a few minutes. I hit 100C for about a second earlier in the run.

Do these temps seem normal? I'd like to go much further than 4.5, but it seems my temperature ceiling has been hit >.<


----------



## pc-illiterate

I didn't say a refurb leaked. Don't pay enough attention and how many here have bought refurbed? Plenty of new have leaked. If a new leaks what's the chance of a refurbed leaking in the same amount of time?
Trust your hardware for a $50 savings?


----------



## mypg036

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Just wanted to show some final photos off of my 540 with an h100i, super proud of it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice setup, bump for you.


----------



## Darc

So, I've been running _just_ an h60i for a few weeks now, and have noticed some odd temperature spikes despite partaking in only one light gaming session. This screen shot was taken a few minutes ago with the software running for a little over an hour and I've only been browsing the web sporadically, but quite lightly. I've been wondering if the temps I am seeing are my system temps or CPU temps as I've been in my BIOS to check my CPU temps and they run at 33-37 range while what I am being displayed now is what my system idles at in BIOS.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







The pump, as far as I can tell, is running at 100%. I've checked my thermal paste and it's applied correctly, and my ambient temps are mid to high 70s.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darc*
> 
> The pump, as far as I can tell, is running at 100%. I've checked my thermal paste and it's applied correctly, and my ambient temps are mid to high 70s.


When you say you "checked" the TIM did you remove it from the block and IHS and reapply some new TIM? Your temps will only get worse if you've just been taking the block off and reseating it on the CPU as you're introducing little air pockets by doing this.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TehOnlyMITTENS*
> 
> You guys think you could help me?
> I just got an H100i.
> I took out the stock fans and changed them with push/pull Hyperboreas.
> I've also delidded my 4770k.
> 
> I don't know what my temps were before I delidded, nor the temps before the H100i (stupid, I know.)
> 
> My temps right now are....less than impressive.
> I'm currently (fairly) stable at 4.5Ghz, 1.33 Vcore
> My temps after 1 hour of P95 go like this : Usually ~71C, but one in a while they will jump to ~90C for a few minutes. I hit 100C for about a second earlier in the run.
> 
> Do these temps seem normal? I'd like to go much further than 4.5, but it seems my temperature ceiling has been hit >.<


Haswell is running even hotter than Ivy







... @1.33v delided P95 load @71c seems quite normal ...








The 90c-100c could be normal if you weren't delided and had average aftermarket cooling and a "below average" clocking chip. ... IDKW the temps would jump 20c+ under a P95 load unless your IHS remount is funky ... maybe try reapplying TIM to the die and remount the IHS








If you could hold mid to high 70c's I'd be happy with that








*[HERE]* is a nice read on what to expect with Haswell overclocking









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> I didn't say a refurb leaked. Don't pay enough attention and how many here have bought refurbed? Plenty of new have leaked. If a new leaks what's the chance of a refurbed leaking in the same amount of time?
> Trust your hardware for a $50 savings?


The FEW H100 refurb's that have developed leaks seem to leak right out of the box before even mounting and testing , otherwise your essentially getting a "like new" H100 ... and if the originals had a 5 year warranty you'd expect the same performance if it didn't fail immediately... It is very very rare that an H100 would just develop a leak 6mos down the road if it weren't due to user error








The Newegg warranty has just been reduced to 30 days







... they must be selling fast ...
*BUT Corsair WILL cover the cost of leak damaged hardware for 1 YEAR* ... NOTE: I have recently confirmed this with Corsair CS/Sales over the phone








Do I work for Corsair? NO ... Is $50 worth a 5 year warranty? for me YES ... Would I buy a refurb for my pride n joy, high end rig or build ... DEFINATELY NO







... But if I was on a tight budget and wanted big bang for the buck and didn't mind leak testing for a week or 2, then it's pretty tempting???


----------



## Buxty

I bought a refurb H100 and it did look brand new. I guess it was a risk worth taking in my rig as the motherboard lays flat and if it leaks, well hell. I want a new board anyway.


----------



## waslakhani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> I bought a refurb H100 and it did look brand new. I guess it was a risk worth taking in my rig as the motherboard lays flat and if it leaks, well hell. I want a new board anyway.


The liquid itself non conductive and corsair only pays you the amount of money the board is worth


----------



## Buxty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waslakhani*
> 
> The liquid itself non conductive and corsair only pays you the amount of money the board is worth


Shouldn't be an issue then, i'd notice if it was leaking before too long and the board isn't worth too much anyway.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> I didn't say a refurb leaked. Don't pay enough attention and how many here have bought refurbed? Plenty of new have leaked. If a new leaks what's the chance of a refurbed leaking in the same amount of time?
> Trust your hardware for a $50 savings?


Wow. You said "too many have leaked after a few months and killed hardware" when you were talking about refurbished units. Did you mean too many leak in general? Because, if that's what you meant (your comment is ambiguous at best) then I would have to say that, imo, not all that many Corsair AIO coolers leak. I have seen a few here and there, but not what I would call "too many".

Now you say "Plenty of new have leaked", what's "plenty"? What are you basing that on?

You also say "Don't pay enough attention"

Do you mean I wasn't paying attention, or you are not paying enough attention, or customers in general don't pay enough attention to the products they purchase?

If you want people to make sense of your comments, then you have to complete your sentences and have your comments make sense. We can't be guessing what you mean.

I was only asking what you were basing your leaking comment on, and if you could provide a link so we could read about it.


----------



## pc-illiterate

no, all i said was too many have leaked. i never said new or refurbed leaked until i actually said new units leaked. that means, too many units leaked, period.
you say you have seen a few here and there, on forums. that doesnt include people not reporting on forums. do you have any idea what the percentage of people buying these are on forums you frequent vs the amount of people buying them? not everyone in the world is on forums.
i dont pay enough attention to this thread or any other concerning h series coolers. dont get me wrong, i love my h100 and it actually is a great cooler for what it is. it just doesnt trip my trigger.
i base my leaking comment on the fact ram guy on the forums says
"several people have reported an issue"
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showpost.php?p=607085&postcount=21
he also says they sell 50,000-80,000 h-series units per month. that naturally indicates failures would be a small percentage. its only common sense.
think what you want of me and posts. it doesnt matter to me at all. i stated my opinions:
too many units have leaked(several is too many leaking). this is of course a low percentage of units sold.
i feel its silly/stupid to save $50 on a refurb when there is the potential to kill hardware after the 90(now 30) day warranty expires. full warranty gives you a minimum of 2 years against leaks and the potential to have your ruined hardware replaced.

tltr: stating my opinions. do what you want. you will anyway.








as always, have nice day


----------



## Dr Slaughter

Got starting Running Now... hehehe


----------



## CannedBullets

The liquid is non-conductive? Never knew that, especially when it seems every time someone mentions leaking their GPU or motherboard gets fried.


----------



## waslakhani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> The liquid is non-conductive? Never knew that, especially when it seems every time someone mentions leaking their GPU or motherboard gets fried.


It has happened to me. It leaked on to my mobo nothing happened I panicked to the point that I just lost $500 worth of computer parts right there and then.


----------



## Buxty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waslakhani*
> 
> It has happened to me. It leaked on to my mobo nothing happened I panicked to the point that I just lost $500 worth of computer parts right there and then.


If it was non-conductive wouldn't it just sit there?


----------



## joaogvmoura

OMG My order is shipping!

I can not wait!

H100i Comming!!!!


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> If it was non-conductive wouldn't it just sit there?


I believe he was saying that his panicked reaction, that it had just ruined everything. But it in fact had not.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> no, all i said was too many have leaked. i never said new or refurbed leaked until i actually said new units leaked. that means, too many units leaked, period.
> you say you have seen a few here and there, on forums. that doesnt include people not reporting on forums. do you have any idea what the percentage of people buying these are on forums you frequent vs the amount of people buying them? not everyone in the world is on forums.
> i dont pay enough attention to this thread or any other concerning h series coolers. dont get me wrong, i love my h100 and it actually is a great cooler for what it is. it just doesnt trip my trigger.
> i base my leaking comment on the fact ram guy on the forums says
> "several people have reported an issue"
> http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showpost.php?p=607085&postcount=21
> he also says they sell 50,000-80,000 h-series units per month. that naturally indicates failures would be a small percentage. its only common sense.
> think what you want of me and posts. it doesnt matter to me at all. i stated my opinions:
> too many units have leaked(several is too many leaking). this is of course a low percentage of units sold.
> i feel its silly/stupid to save $50 on a refurb when there is the potential to kill hardware after the 90(now 30) day warranty expires. full warranty gives you a minimum of 2 years against leaks and the potential to have your ruined hardware replaced.
> 
> tltr: stating my opinions. do what you want. you will anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as always, have nice day


Thanks for the link. Your writing is better as well. I would expect about a 6% failure rate for any consumer goods. For the AIO water coolers, the entire 6% would not be just leaks though, but bad fans, bad pump and other defects. 6% is about average for any industry.

If the sales figures you quoted are accurate, "several" leaking units is actually pretty good.


----------



## rusky1

I ordered an H110 2 days ago, should be here tomorrow!


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waslakhani*
> 
> It has happened to me. It leaked on to my mobo nothing happened I panicked to the point that I just lost $500 worth of computer parts right there and then.


Nice to know that my H100i will be safe if it ever leaks. I remember seeing a huge thread a while back on another forum talking about how their Asetek AIO leaked and killed their motherboard and GPU. I think Asetek used to be the OEM for the H80 and H100 but now CoolIt is the OEM for the H100i and the H80i, not sure about the other Corsair AIOs like the H60.


----------



## TehOnlyMITTENS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Nice to know that my H100i will be safe if it ever leaks. I remember seeing a huge thread a while back on another forum talking about how their Asetek AIO leaked and killed their motherboard and GPU. I think Asetek used to be the OEM for the H80 and H100 but now CoolIt is the OEM for the H100i and the H80i, not sure about the other Corsair AIOs like the H60.


Coolit is the OEM for the H60


----------



## rusky1

Seems like I'm having a problem with my h110. It's setup in a push/pull configuration on my sig rig. CPU is 4.5ghz @ 1.23 vcore, uncore is 4.0ghz @ 1.05v

My idle temperatures are 30C but as soon as I start stress testing, using OCCT, temps jump all the way up to 80C within about 1 minute. Fans are set to max and the pump is running as well. I've installed the cooler 2 times now, first time was due to poor TIM application. A few people on here have I've seen use plastic spacers for the backplate in order to get a better mount. Is this something that is generally recommended?


----------



## rickyman0319

I have a h80i pump. but my pump is 17xx rpm. is that normal for full speed or not?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rusky1*
> 
> Seems like I'm having a problem with my h110. It's setup in a push/pull configuration on my sig rig. CPU is 4.5ghz @ 1.23 vcore, uncore is 4.0ghz @ 1.05v
> 
> My idle temperatures are 30C but as soon as I start stress testing, using OCCT, temps jump all the way up to 80C within about 1 minute. Fans are set to max and the pump is running as well. I've installed the cooler 2 times now, first time was due to poor TIM application. A few people on here have I've seen use plastic spacers for the backplate in order to get a better mount. Is this something that is generally recommended?


I take it this is on an Intel based board.

Things to try (possibly repeats):
Reseat pump
Rotate pump 90 degrees
Make sure the bracket on the back of the motherboard isproperly positioned.
(Intel backplate has a notch to indicate proper position)


----------



## Camph

As usual like 90% of all other HAF XB owners, I stuck an H100i in the front. I also ordered 2x Scythe GT AP14s.

My question is, should I keep the 2 stock fans as pull or just not bother? I'm looking for something that's quiet, and even on the quiet profile the fans a little bit louder than I want. Would the stock fans on pull be worth using even if it's only at 600-800 rpm?


----------



## UZ7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rusky1*
> 
> Seems like I'm having a problem with my h110. It's setup in a push/pull configuration on my sig rig. CPU is 4.5ghz @ 1.23 vcore, uncore is 4.0ghz @ 1.05v
> 
> My idle temperatures are 30C but as soon as I start stress testing, using OCCT, temps jump all the way up to 80C within about 1 minute. Fans are set to max and the pump is running as well. I've installed the cooler 2 times now, first time was due to poor TIM application. A few people on here have I've seen use plastic spacers for the backplate in order to get a better mount. Is this something that is generally recommended?


Installed my H80i today to replace my H50. First installation 30C idle/80C+ linpack. Turns out I had a bit of space between the back bracket and PCB.

Went to Lowes got some spacers put two thin ones on each with the black plastic one at the end. Tightened everything. Tested again. 30C/65C @4.5GHz w/ mx-2 paste.

So yeah I also have an asrock board which is known to have thin PCB or metal back isn't as thick to push the mounting bracket. But yeah the spacers/additional washers worked for me.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4


----------



## luckymatt

H110 here...I'm about halfway through lapping the waterblock, and I'm finding it surprisingly convex.

Anyone else out there lap this thing or noticed this before?


----------



## rusky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UZ7*
> 
> Installed my H80i today to replace my H50. First installation 30C idle/80C+ linpack. Turns out I had a bit of space between the back bracket and PCB.
> 
> Went to Lowes got some spacers put two thin ones on each with the black plastic one at the end. Tightened everything. Tested again. 30C/65C @4.5GHz w/ mx-2 paste.
> 
> So yeah I also have an asrock board which is known to have thin PCB or metal back isn't as thick to push the mounting bracket. But yeah the spacers/additional washers worked for me.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4


Thanks for the confirmation! Looks like a trip to Home Depot is in my near future.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luckymatt*
> 
> H110 here...I'm about halfway through lapping the waterblock, and I'm finding it surprisingly convex.
> 
> Anyone else out there lap this thing or noticed this before?


I was planning on delidding my CPU this weekend, looks like I'll have to lap the waterblock as well!


----------



## Destrto

Those blocks are convex on purpose. To help evenly spread the TIM applied and not have it get collected near the center. Lapping it helps give a better contact overall, but if you lap it so much that you remove the convex shape, it *may* reduce overall performance.


----------



## luckymatt

Ya I agree mostly, but I don't think I'll be able to get it 100% flat flat anyway..can still see just a bare sliver of daylight come through on a razorblade test.

Got the cpu ihs lapped down pretty good too, it was slightly concave but not quite on center in either axis, and uneven overall from top to bottom...if you're gonna do it do both am I right?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luckymatt*
> 
> Ya I agree mostly, but I don't think I'll be able to get it 100% flat flat anyway..can still see just a bare sliver of daylight come through on a razorblade test.
> 
> Got the cpu ihs lapped down pretty good too, it was slightly concave but not quite on center in either axis, and uneven overall from top to bottom...if you're gonna do it do both am I right?


I agree, "Dont' half ass two things. Whole ass one thing."


----------



## jdsdk

hey guys im posting this hear because you are owners of the corsair h series and you will know better.will the h80i be able to cool an fx-6300 at 4.7ghz?


----------



## paulwarden2505

jdsdk yes the h80i will cool an fx-6300 at 4.7ghz i know as i have mine at that speed and have not had any problems with overheating max it went to during the hot weather was 54c when benchmarking


----------



## MillerLite1314

kept my fx-8320 pretty chill when I had it


----------



## jdsdk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerLite1314*
> 
> kept my fx-8320 pretty chill when I had it


Can you please tell me what temps you were getting and at what GHz if you remember?


----------



## MillerLite1314

i have it recorded in my notebook. i'll look when i get home from class.


----------



## jdsdk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerLite1314*
> 
> i have it recorded in my notebook. i'll look when i get home from class.


Ok


----------



## Snyderman34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> PWM on SP120 Quiet is pointless IMHO. I rub mine full boar 100% and don't hear a thing.


Just reading through and found this. Quoted for the funny


----------



## sWaY20

So I got my new h100i after I rma'd my broken one. I literally just sent them the actual unit, no fans, hardware, nothing. They sent me a brand new one, can't deny their customer service, it's amazing.

Only problem is not knowing what was wrong with the other one. Got extra fans and hardware so I'm happy.

tappin from the Nexus 4


----------



## Modus

does anyone know the settings to get the LED white?


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modus*
> 
> does anyone know the settings to get the LED white?


In corsair link, all 3 of those led color toggles to the top I believe, or bottom either one.

tappin from the Nexus 4


----------



## vabeachboy0

Hello everyone heres my recent mod of an H50


----------



## eggs2see

Apologies if this has been asked before but search resulted in nothing.

Basically I have just bought an H100i and installed it, I've fired up my computer and downloaded the latest CorsairLink2 software which appears to have installed correctly.

When I try and launch CorsairLink however, nothing happens.

I've tried running the program as admin, restarting and re-installing the software.

Anyone else experienced this??

Cheers.


----------



## rob47ww

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eggs2see*
> 
> Apologies if this has been asked before but search resulted in nothing.
> 
> Basically I have just bought an H100i and installed it, I've fired up my computer and downloaded the latest CorsairLink2 software which appears to have installed correctly.
> 
> When I try and launch CorsairLink however, nothing happens.
> 
> I've tried running the program as admin, restarting and re-installing the software.
> 
> Anyone else experienced this??
> 
> Cheers.


I know this doesn't really help but I had that problem and did something which fixed it, but I can't remember what... -_- Have you tried restarting your computer after installing or installing an older version of it? I think that's what I did actually.


----------



## eggs2see

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rob47ww*
> 
> I know this doesn't really help but I had that problem and did something which fixed it, but I can't remember what... -_- Have you tried restarting your computer after installing or installing an older version of it? I think that's what I did actually.


Yeah I have tried restarting and re-installing as admin, neither works. Any idea where I can get an older version of the software to try?

EDIT: Nevermind it's working now... can't explain that one.


----------



## Richaye

I'm looking to RMA my Corsair H80 cooler, but have a few questions in mind before doing so.

I was wondering if I RMA my H80 would I receive another H80 as a replacement or an H80i.

And how does the Express Replacement work? Do they charge your card X amount, then refund X amount after receiving the damaged item? Or do they give you a certain amount of time to return the item before charging you for the item?

Thank you in advance!


----------



## richie_2010

WHen I rmad my h100 I got back a h100i.
I did the advanced rma on the 100 they charge your card however much but dont take it unless you dont return the faulty one


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Richaye*
> 
> I'm looking to RMA my Corsair H80 cooler, but have a few questions in mind before doing so.
> 
> I was wondering if I RMA my H80 would I receive another H80 as a replacement or an H80i.
> 
> And how does the Express Replacement work? Do they charge your card X amount, then refund X amount after receiving the damaged item? Or do they give you a certain amount of time to return the item before charging you for the item?
> 
> Thank you in advance!


On the Advanced Replacement, they charge your card, then refund that money once the item is received. I believe a standard RMA will charge you if they do not recieve any item within the specified time period.


----------



## Richaye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> WHen I rmad my h100 I got back a h100i.
> I did the advanced rma on the 100 they charge your card however much but dont take it unless you dont return the faulty one


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> On the Advanced Replacement, they charge your card, then refund that money once the item is received. I believe a standard RMA will charge you if they do not recieve any item within the specified time period.


Thanks for the info, do you know if they cover shipping? I'd call support but are closed until Monday.


----------



## THEStorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> WHen I rmad my h100 I got back a h100i.
> I did the advanced rma on the 100 they charge your card however much but dont take it unless you dont return the faulty one


I am hoping that's what will happen for me, my H100 just died on Wednesday and I am just waiting to hear back about the RMA.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Richaye*
> 
> Thanks for the info, do you know if they cover shipping? I'd call support but are closed until Monday.


They usually do not cover shipping, customer tends to have to eat that one.


----------



## nikbear

Could someone please suggest some quality fans to use with a H80?
I had a H50 which was using 2 Akasa Apache PWM 120mm fans, quiet and cooled great, but using them on the H80 and I'm not seeing much of an improvement, thinking that the extra 'thickness' of the rad might be a problem??
Any suggestions appreciated ;-)


----------



## SpDFreaK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nikbear*
> 
> Could someone please suggest some quality fans to use with a H80?
> I had a H50 which was using 2 Akasa Apache PWM 120mm fans, quiet and cooled great, but using them on the H80 and I'm not seeing much of an improvement, thinking that the extra 'thickness' of the rad might be a problem??
> Any suggestions appreciated ;-)


If you can stand the color scheme the Noctua F12 fans are very good for radiators and relatively low noise even at 1500 rpm (full speed). Not silent, but with PWM control options are pretty good.


----------



## nikbear

I'm afraid I should have put one caveat, and that's no Noctua, as excellent fans they most certainly are, their colour scheme makes me want to pull my own eyes out!








Why on earth they insist on keeping to that awful 'Hearing aid beige and washed out red' colour scheme is beyond me??








Just think how much more they would sell if they offered different colours ?
Nope, thank you for the suggestion, but anything but them


----------



## CannedBullets

Yeah the Noctua NF-F12s are definitely some of the best radiator fans you can get.


----------



## tsunamipop

Hey everyone. Just installed my h100i http://www.overclock.net/t/1144409/h80-h80i-h90-h100-h100i-h110-case-compatibility-thread-page-1-for-full-listings/1050#post_20765834 TomcatV told me I should come here to share in the wealth of knowledge available for these awesome coolers


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nikbear*
> 
> I'm afraid I should have put one caveat, and that's no Noctua, as excellent fans they most certainly are, their colour scheme makes me want to pull my own eyes out!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why on earth they insist on keeping to that awful 'Hearing aid beige and washed out red' colour scheme is beyond me??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just think how much more they would sell if they offered different colours ?
> Nope, thank you for the suggestion, but anything but them


Look for some scythe gentle typhoon ap 15 fans if you can find them. Other models of GT are also good, but they are not PWM. Another well received fan is the Yate Loon (again, if you can find them). What are your temps using the stock H80 fans? They are actually one of the higher performing fans, although they are a little on the noisy side (if we're talking H80 and not H80i).


----------



## Destrto

Yate loons are commonly available now, it seems. I personally like them. Swapped out some of my Corsair fans with Yate loons.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsunamipop*
> 
> Hey everyone. Just installed my h100i http://www.overclock.net/t/1144409/h80-h80i-h90-h100-h100i-h110-case-compatibility-thread-page-1-for-full-listings/1050#post_20765834 TomcatV told me I should come here to share in the wealth of knowledge available for these awesome coolers
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tsunamipop*
> 
> I saw the improvement once I switched to Push/Pull and removed the top mesh from the case. The improvement may have not been as great if I removed the restrictive mesh while I was just in Pull configuration. I will give your configuration a try and see how things turn out. Previously I could only use one of my side exhaust fans because my h60 in push/pull would interfere with the installation of the top side panel fan, but I think I have the clearance for both with the top mount of the h100i. Your statement about my 680's rear exhausting makes me think I was just sucking in all of there hot air back through my h60's radiator giving me not so great performance...((face palm)). Oh well Im happy with this monster anyway. I need to look into buying some filters for my side exhaust fans so I can help keep the case a bit cleaner. Any suggestions for front intake fans and filters. This is what I have
> 
> 
> Should I buy two more gentle typhoons and make all 4 of my fans on my h100 the same and move the corsairs to my side exhaust or what would be a good plan. I know I should keep my 4 fans on the radiator the same so they work better together. Looks like I need to buy 3 more fans to match up my radiator fans and install an external rear exhaust. If my front fans are fine I will just need filter material for those as well as my two exhaust.
> 
> Thanks for the advice Tomcat.
Click to expand...

Yea the "Hot" GPU exhaust being sucked back in the Intake was a problem for some H80/H80i owners as well, especially high performance SLI setups







. Matching fans for push/pull is ideal but definitely is Not necessary for performance as long as they are of the same general quality (SP type) and generally run within the same rpm's (+/- 200-300rpm's) and even that is debatable, we had a long, indepth discussion on that in the Hydro thread way back when (starts)*[HERE]* and no one has had any problems with premature fan wear/failure









Fan filters beyond standard mesh can be quite contentious for many purest ... as it seems the better they work the less airflow you get without compensating with increased rpm's creating more noise. It's a performance/maintenance tradeoff, so if you don't have a terribly bad dust problem, I would try it for awhile without additional filtration. If you want to purchase 2 for your 120's feeding the 680's *[HERE]* are some good examples, but IMO stay away from the "foam" type, they work well but are harder to clean. AND why not try making your own out of nylon stockings or dryer tissues and see if the extra filtration with some loss of performance is really what you need or want?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> does anyone know the barb size of the original h100? ie what tubing would fit


1/4 inch ID ... common mod Tube size is 6mm(1/4) ID 8mm(5/16) OD although if you want to just change the looks (non corrugated) OR "Color"? check *[THIS]* mod out 1st, it won't void your warranty


----------



## sWaY20

Ok that prob I thought I had with my h100i, well it turns out I was wrong. Which makes sense bc nothing seemed wrong with it, and everything was working, but that's the only thing I thought it could be.

So here's my question, what could possibly make my temps just one day shoot up? I was oc'ed 4.5ghz @1.175v and never idled above 30c and 75c on load, 24hr p95 tested. If it's not the h100i, or the mobo bc I just installed a new one, what could it be?

At stock clock I'm idling at 40c, load it's 70c+. When I oc to my original speed, it shoots past 100c. I'm at a loss, did my chip just crap the bed? Temps are also fluctuating like crazy, before i rma'd the first unit i tried multiple times to reseat it and apply paste which failed. This time im using the preapplied paste from corsair and getting same results, just a bit more info for the problem solvers.

tapping from the Nexus 4


----------



## rusky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Ok that prob I thought I had with my h100i, well it turns out I was wrong. Which makes sense bc nothing seemed wrong with it, and everything was working, but that's the only thing I thought it could be.
> 
> So here's my question, what could possibly make my temps just one day shoot up? I was oc'ed 4.5ghz @1.175v and never idled above 30c and 75c on load, 24hr p95 tested. If it's not the h100i, or the mobo bc I just installed a new one, what could it be?
> 
> At stock clock I'm idling at 40c, load it's 70c+. When I oc to my original speed, it shoots past 100c. I'm at a loss, did my chip just crap the bed? Temps are also fluctuating like crazy, before i rma'd the first unit i tried multiple times to reseat it and apply paste which failed. This time im using the preapplied paste from corsair and getting same results, just a bit more info for the problem solvers.
> 
> tapping from the Nexus 4


Did your backplate somehow become loose?


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rusky1*
> 
> [quote name="sWaY20" url="/t/612436/official-corsair-hydro-series-club/24230#post_20777509"]Ok that prob I thought I had with my h100i, well it turns out I was wrong. Which makes sense bc nothing seemed wrong with it, and everything was working, but that's the only thing I thought it could be. So here's my question, what could possibly make my temps just one day shoot up? I was oc'ed 4.5ghz @1.175v and never idled above 30c and 75c on load, 24hr p95 tested. If it's not the h100i, or the mobo bc I just installed a new one, what could it be? At stock clock I'm idling at 40c, load it's 70c+. When I oc to my original speed, it shoots past 100c. I'm at a loss, did my chip just crap the bed? Temps are also fluctuating like crazy, before i rma'd the first unit i tried multiple times to reseat it and apply paste which failed. This time im using the preapplied paste from corsair and getting same results, just a bit more info for the problem solvers.tapping from the Nexus 4


Did your backplate somehow become loose?[/QUOTE]

No, I don't think it's anything like that. I get the same results no matter what I do as far as reseating it.

tapping from the Nexus 4


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> No, I don't think it's anything like that. I get the same results no matter what I do as far as reseating it.
> 
> tapping from the Nexus 4


You just replaced your motherboard?

Try rotating the cpu block 90 degrees. Very often a row of capacitors on some motherboards will cause the block not to seat perfectly. You can usually rectify this by rotating the block. My motherboard does this very thing. Unfortunately, your Corsair logo will no longer be right side up, but them's the breaks.

Also, make sure your backplate is not upside down.

Last suggestion I have is, check how loose(ish) your block feels (if the above suggestions did not help). If it feels a little loose or like it could be a little tighter, remove the backplate and install some paper or nylon washers (any washers that don't conduct) and reattach the backplate. Some of us have noticed that some motherboards seem a little thinner than others, and by using washers on the backplate you can get a slightly tighter fit (just don't over-tighten the screws).


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> [quote name="sWaY20" url="/t/612436/official-corsair-hydro-series-club/24230#post_20777628"]No, I don't think it's anything like that. I get the same results no matter what I do as far as reseating it. tapping from the Nexus 4


You just replaced your motherboard?Try rotating the cpu block 90 degrees. Very often a row of capacitors on some motherboards will cause the block not to seat perfectly. You can usually rectify this by rotating the block. My motherboard does this very thing. Unfortunately, your Corsair logo will no longer be right side up, but them's the breaks.Also, make sure your backplate is not upside down.Last suggestion I have is, check how loose(ish) your block feels (if the above suggestions did not help). If it feels a little loose or like it could be a little tighter, remove the backplate and install some paper or nylon washers (any washers that don't conduct) and reattach the backplate. Some of us have noticed that some motherboards seem a little thinner than others, and by using washers on the backplate you can get a slightly tighter fit (just don't over-tighten the screws).[/QUOTE]

Great suggestions, I'll try them for sure. I'm going to get the 540 air Friday, so I'll play with it then, I'm hoping to get this problem out of the way soon, it's frustrating that it was fine and working, and one day bam...high temps!!!

tapping from the Nexus 4


----------



## ihatelolcats

my h100 molex came apart, if the rpm sensor is "top" what are the other two wires?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> my h100 molex came apart, if the rpm sensor is "top" what are the other two wires?


The rpm sensor is the 3pin connector. The molex just supplies power.


----------



## ihatelolcats

thanks for response, middle wire is 12v

is there a good method for mounting h100 on amd? im using arctic ceramic 2 paste and having a hard time getting a good mount


----------



## Buxty

RIP one of my H100 stock fans







you'll be sorely missed when you sound like a jet when i turn my rig on.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> thanks for response, middle wire is 12v
> 
> is there a good method for mounting h100 on amd? im using arctic ceramic 2 paste and having a hard time getting a good mount


The preferred install suggestions were to use the stock AMD backplate and just try, carefully, to set it down evenly, and (with 3.5 hands it seems) tighten down the 2 thumbscrews lightly by hand a few turns at a time. When it begins to get hard to turn by hand, turn it just a few light turns with a screwdriver. You dont want it too tight, or you risk the clips slipping off. (happened to me and scared the bageezus out of me)


----------



## Speedster159

Can you get the H100i to go into the top of a NZXT Phantom in Push/Pull?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedster159*
> 
> Can you get the H100i to go into the top of a NZXT Phantom in Push/Pull?


That's a big YES [Edit: maybe?, see below] as you can see in *[THIS]* informative video ... he explains why he went back to using the NZXT stock 200mm fans for the "Pull" fans and decreased his temps (he says) 2c-5c over the traditional 4-120mm fan push/pull Top/Exhaust setup he had previously. I can confirm this type of setup (200mm pull fan(s)) works quite well as I have done something similar in my own setup







Note the H100 and H100i dimensions and mounting for the rad are identical!

EDIT:







*After watching the whole video, he doesn't mention until 9:30min that his ram (ripjaw) heatsinks didn't clear and he went to a lower profile ram*







So without seeing your rig specs, I can't say if your ram would clear without trimming the more popular tall heatsinks like the GSkill RipjawX or Corsair Dominators









If you need to trim your ram heatsinks, it's pretty simple to do, your call








See [HERE] and pic below ...



Also I pretty much disagree with his "Intake" theory starting at 4:30min because the 200mm have poor static pressure, if any at all, and aren't even mounted flush to the rad. And user experience has shown Intake vs Exhaust w/well ventilated case is only a 2c-3c improvement. In my case it was only a 1c-2c under load improvement. Additionally I can confirm he should reverse his rear 120mm fan to an "Exhaust" config for better case airflow "direction". He has plenty of other (2-120mm/1-140mm/1-200mm) intake fans.

When your done with your setup you could go over to the H80/H100 case compatibility thread *[HERE]* with pictures, and have "Matty" correct the link for the NZXT Phantom H100/i with push/pull *[HERE]* ... it incorrectly links to a NZXT Source 210


----------



## killuchen

So ever since I finished my new build I have been experience high temps on my 4930k. I'm currently OCed to 4.4ghz @ 1.45volts and my idle temps are 48-52C. Under prime95 after two seconds of running it it jumps to 95C!!! Do you guys think my H100i is broken? I currently have it in a push/pull config.

I tried unscrewing the block and reposition it but I'm still getting the same temps. In corsair link the pump seems to be working and all the fans are on full blast.


----------



## rusky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killuchen*
> 
> So ever since I finished my new build I have been experience high temps on my 4930k. I'm currently OCed to 4.4ghz @ 1.45volts and my idle temps are 48-52C. Under prime95 after two seconds of running it it jumps to 95C!!! Do you guys think my H100i is broken? I currently have it in a push/pull config.
> 
> I tried unscrewing the block and reposition it but I'm still getting the same temps. In corsair link the pump seems to be working and all the fans are on full blast.


Would need more information like ambient temp, TIM, and application method. Are you mounting the rad as intake or exhaust? Have you checked for a loose backplate/screws bottoming out too quickly?

Those things aside, your vcore seems pretty high for a mere 4.4ghz. People are getting to 4.5 @ 1.23-1.30v.


----------



## killuchen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rusky1*
> 
> Would need more information like ambient temp, TIM, and application method. Are you mounting the rad as intake or exhaust? Have you checked for a loose backplate/screws bottoming out too quickly?
> 
> Those things aside, your vcore seems pretty high for a mere 4.4ghz. People are getting to 4.5 @ 1.23-1.30v.


My room temp is 75F. I havent tried applying my own TIM. I did order some Arctic MX4. My rad is push/pull exhaust. So pushing air out of my case.

As for the backplate my mobo is the Evga x79 Dark so there is no need for a backplate.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killuchen*
> 
> So ever since I finished my new build I have been experience high temps on my 4930k. I'm currently OCed to 4.4ghz @ 1.45volts and my idle temps are 48-52C. Under prime95 after two seconds of running it it jumps to 95C!!! Do you guys think my H100i is broken? I currently have it in a push/pull config.
> 
> I tried unscrewing the block and reposition it but I'm still getting the same temps. In corsair link the pump seems to be working and all the fans are on full blast.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rusky1*
> 
> Would need more information like ambient temp, TIM, and application method. Are you mounting the rad as intake or exhaust? Have you checked for a loose backplate/screws bottoming out too quickly?
> 
> Those things aside, your vcore seems pretty high for a mere 4.4ghz. People are getting to 4.5 @ 1.23-1.30v.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *killuchen*
> 
> My room temp is 75F. I havent tried applying my own TIM. I did order some Arctic MX4. My rad is push/pull exhaust. So pushing air out of my case.
> 
> As for the backplate my mobo is the Evga x79 Dark so there is no need for a backplate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

There seems to be quite a difference in silicon batch quality within IB-E, you may have a less than average chip, but even so your temps seem too high, especially since Intel went back to soldering the IHS. We need to determine if you have a failing H100i or a bad mount?

So along with Rusky, I have even more questions ... like ...
1) Is your H100i a new unit or was it performing well with a previous install? If so we need details (see my sig).
2) What are your load temps when your 4930K is set to stock? Again screenshots/details really help.

If it's a bad mount, 2 things get overlooked to often ...
1) Try rotating your block 90 degrees to clear unseen mobo capacitors. Although your Corsair block logo won't be right side up anymore, this quick fix has helped many in the past!
2) Try using your backplate and make sure it isn't reversed (180 degrees), I don't mean upside down ... pictures are worth a 1k words so see my post/pics *[HERE]* to better illustrate this point


----------



## killuchen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> There seems to be quite a difference in silicon batch quality within IB-E, you may have a less than average chip, but even so your temps seem too high, especially since Intel went back to soldering the IHS. We need to determine if you have a failing H100i or a bad mount?
> 
> So along with Rusky, I have even more questions ... like ...
> 1) Is your H100i a new unit or was it performing well with a previous install? If so we need details (see my sig).
> 2) What are your load temps when your 4930K is set to stock? Again screenshots/details really help.
> 
> If it's a bad mount, 2 things get overlooked to often ...
> 1) Try rotating your block 90 degrees to clear unseen mobo capacitors. Although your Corsair block logo won't be right side up anymore, this quick fix has helped many in the past!
> 2) Try using your backplate and make sure it isn't reversed (180 degrees), I don't mean upside down ... pictures are worth a 1k words so see my post/pics *[HERE]* to better illustrate this point


1. The H100i is a new unit. I already went ahead and RMAed it. I bought a new unit so I'm going to install the new unit before returning my current one.

2. Load temps at stock speeds were reaching 75C under prime95.

I have not tried rotating the cpu block and my mobo does not require a backplate since I have the Evga x79 Dark board.

Also, would you guys recommend that I keep using Prime95 or something like Intel Burn test?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Hey guys will be buying the noctua nf-f12 on monday for my h100i,just wondering if the fans can be controlled my corsair link,meaning will the rpm drop depending in my h100i settings,just really tired of the stock fans annoying sound when running un quiet mode or even fixed mode at 1100-1200 rpm....


----------



## MrSharkington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys will be buying the noctua nf-f12 on monday for my h100i,just wondering if the fans can be controlled my corsair link,meaning will the rpm drop depending in my h100i settings,just really tired of the stock fans annoying sound when running un quiet mode or even fixed mode at 1100-1200 rpm....


I have two NF-F12's on my h100i controlled by corsair link. You can change the RPM easily but mine don't go over 1300rpm on the maximum preset for some reason


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> I have two NF-F12's on my h100i controlled by corsair link. You can change the RPM easily but mine don't go over 1300rpm on the maximum preset for some reason


Yeah my NF-F12s never surpass 1390 RPM but when I had them on my H80i they were routinely going over 1400 RPM.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killuchen*
> 
> My room temp is 75F. I havent tried applying my own TIM. I did order some Arctic MX4. My rad is push/pull exhaust. So pushing air out of my case.
> As for the backplate my mobo is the Evga x79 Dark so there is no need for a backplate.


are you remounting using the same corsair tim application? im hoping youre cleaning off the used tim every time you mount the block/pump. if you are re-using, thats a big problem in itself.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> There seems to be quite a difference in silicon batch quality within IB-E, you may have a less than average chip, but even so your temps seem too high, especially since Intel went back to soldering the IHS.


all 2011 are soldered ihs. if im wrong, tell me where to read about it.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> are you remounting using the same corsair tim application? im hoping youre cleaning off the used tim every time you mount the block/pump. if you are re-using, thats a big problem in itself.
> all 2011 are soldered ihs. if im wrong, tell me where to read about it.


You are correct ... I didn't word it very effectively/clearly ...









I was referring to Gen 3 ... IB vs IB-E


----------



## Clos

How many of you h110 owners have replaced or kept your stock fans???


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clos*
> 
> How many of you h110 owners have replaced or kept your stock fans???


I for one. I refused to use stock fans. I purchased 4 Noctua 140's.


----------



## rusky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clos*
> 
> How many of you h110 owners have replaced or kept your stock fans???


I still have the stock fans but will be upgrading to THESE soon.


----------



## winRarity

I have some really nice components: 3960X, 7970's (getting swapped for 780's). in an FT02

But I have the ugliest guts ever...



And air cooled cards are loud, so I've been looking into liquid cooling: it works well for my GPU, why wouldn't it work well for my cards?



But it's so expensive to do something that I'm never going to see (I loathe window boxes). And what a waste of a nice cooler. I wished I could use it.

Then I read this mod strapping an H50 to a GPU, and this one, showing how to change tubes on your Hydro series... and I have this radiator in a box back at home; an extra H50 would only cost me $50.

Anyone seeing what I'm hinting at? The world's most budget dual-pump FULL water loop! Unfortunately, I'm out of the country right now, but I'd love to hear any ideas; this IS happening in some form, upon my return.

My current plan is to run the loops in parallel, using Y connectors on the radiator, and bleeding the whole thing, before slapping each pump/block on the GPU and CPU. I believe with both pumps in parallel, it will overcome any gravitational loss, but I'm not entirely sure; I _could_ always put the extra 120mm radiator in the loop, up at the top, to have a bubble trap.


----------



## UZ7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clos*
> 
> How many of you h110 owners have replaced or kept your stock fans???


I don't have an H110 but I opted to use the fans I had before (2x Noctua NF-P12) on my H80i, I have them at the lowest RPM and I hear the 200mm over them







still good 30idle/65Cibt [email protected]


----------



## teaseal

Hi OCN,

I'm a long time lurker but I figured it was time to create an account for a few questions. I'm looking into entering the world of water cooling. Before I go crazy with custom loops and all of that jazz, I figured I'd start with a good closed loop such as the Corsair H100i or the H80i. Naturally, I have a few questions which I'm having a hard time finding answers to sifting through this ginormous thread!

I suppose I'll go into a little background with what I am working with. Currently I am running an Intel Core i5-3570K (at stock settings) which I plan to delid and put some CLU or CLP under the spreader for some nicer temps. I have that chip socketed in an ASUS Sabertooth Z77. This is all inside a Corsair Obsidian 550D, which for those that are unfamiliar with, is a case that places emphasis on noise reduction. I plan to overclock the CPU some, although I have not decided quite yet how far I am going to take the chip. I will be seeking a balance of keeping a quieter case while attempting to get a decent performance boost from my overclock.

On to the questions! My first is directed towards those that are most likely running a top mounted H100i. About how noticeable is the sound level coming from the top of the case vs a rear mounted cooler? Since I am going to be attempting to keep my case fairly silent still, I am worried that dual fans pushing or pulling air from the top might negate much of the sound dampening that the 550D specializes in. Will a rear mounted cooler such as the H80i be a fair bit quieter than the dual fan top mounted H100i aimed more towards the direction of my hearing?

Secondly, and also related to a top mounted radiator, do those of you that are using a top mount find more issues with dust vs a rear mount? Looking at the top of my case shows how quickly dust can collect in the room. My feeling is that they would be fairly equal since dust is moving in the air at all times, but I figured it couldn't hurt to ask.

Lastly, I've seen many mentions of using Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans for the radiator over the stock Corsair fans. Would those be good replacement fans with my goals in mind? Are there any other fans that might be more suitable?

Thank you ahead of time for any information you all might have on any of those questions!


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teaseal*
> 
> Hi OCN,
> 
> I'm a long time lurker but I figured it was time to create an account for a few questions. I'm looking into entering the world of water cooling. Before I go crazy with custom loops and all of that jazz, I figured I'd start with a good closed loop such as the Corsair H100i or the H80i. Naturally, I have a few questions which I'm having a hard time finding answers to sifting through this ginormous thread!
> 
> I suppose I'll go into a little background with what I am working with. Currently I am running an Intel Core i5-3570K (at stock settings) which I plan to delid and put some CLU or CLP under the spreader for some nicer temps. I have that chip socketed in an ASUS Sabertooth Z77. This is all inside a Corsair Obsidian 550D, which for those that are unfamiliar with, is a case that places emphasis on noise reduction. I plan to overclock the CPU some, although I have not decided quite yet how far I am going to take the chip. I will be seeking a balance of keeping a quieter case while attempting to get a decent performance boost from my overclock.
> 
> On to the questions! My first is directed towards those that are most likely running a top mounted H100i. About how noticeable is the sound level coming from the top of the case vs a rear mounted cooler? Since I am going to be attempting to keep my case fairly silent still, I am worried that dual fans pushing or pulling air from the top might negate much of the sound dampening that the 550D specializes in. Will a rear mounted cooler such as the H80i be a fair bit quieter than the dual fan top mounted H100i aimed more towards the direction of my hearing?
> 
> Secondly, and also related to a top mounted radiator, do those of you that are using a top mount find more issues with dust vs a rear mount? Looking at the top of my case shows how quickly dust can collect in the room. My feeling is that they would be fairly equal since dust is moving in the air at all times, but I figured it couldn't hurt to ask.
> 
> Lastly, I've seen many mentions of using Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans for the radiator over the stock Corsair fans. Would those be good replacement fans with my goals in mind? Are there any other fans that might be more suitable?
> 
> Thank you ahead of time for any information you all might have on any of those questions!


Sounds like you've done your research pretty well.

There will be some sound difference between the H80 and H100, but I don't think it will be that much.

The Scythe AP15 GT fans are an excellent choice for performance/noise.

Dust will likely be about the same with the H80 or H100, however you can really reduce dust by using the cooler as exhaust instead of intake. The temperature difference will likely only be a couple of degrees to both your case and your cpu.

Last, I have to wonder at your choice of case if you plan on overclocking. Overclocking will cause the system to generate more heat, and the quiet capability of your case is achieved by using acoustic insulation and covers, which also may increase the heat inside your case. You might find yourself removing the side and top covers to get the airflow you need for overclocking, which would defeat the silent design of the case.

However, I haven't tried the 550D myself, so be sure to let us know how it goes. We will be interested in your idle temps, and your load temps running Prime 95 and Furmark.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Hi OCN,

I am new to AIO watercooling and planning to get one soon... At the moment my choice is H110 and i do not plan to change the fans once i have it. I'd like to know if the H110 will fit into NZXT Source 210? I want to maximize my PC Case that supports 2x140 fans on top. Thanks.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winRarity*
> 
> I have some really nice components: 3960X, 7970's (getting swapped for 780's). in an FT02
> 
> But I have the ugliest guts ever...
> 
> 
> 
> And air cooled cards are loud, so I've been looking into liquid cooling: it works well for my GPU, why wouldn't it work well for my cards?
> 
> 
> 
> But it's so expensive to do something that I'm never going to see (I loathe window boxes). And what a waste of a nice cooler. I wished I could use it.
> 
> Then I read this mod strapping an H50 to a GPU, and this one, showing how to change tubes on your Hydro series... and I have this radiator in a box back at home; an extra H50 would only cost me $50.
> 
> Anyone seeing what I'm hinting at? The world's most budget dual-pump FULL water loop! Unfortunately, I'm out of the country right now, but I'd love to hear any ideas; this IS happening in some form, upon my return.
> 
> My current plan is to run the loops in parallel, using Y connectors on the radiator, and bleeding the whole thing, before slapping each pump/block on the GPU and CPU. I believe with both pumps in parallel, it will overcome any gravitational loss, but I'm not entirely sure; I _could_ always put the extra 120mm radiator in the loop, up at the top, to have a bubble trap.


1st welcome to OCN, I think I see where your coming from-->going? If you loath case windows what is the big concern on how it looks vs performance? AND you make no mention of a second H50 for your SLI setup (3 pumps total?). Anyway, most would be very proud to own the custom loop rig above and that is really the way to go for cooling overclocked multiple GPU's/CPU, and I understand you already have a very nice huge 3x180 rad you want to put to good use. But IMHO without a custom loop, or at least the same type pump specs (2xH50's vs H100) I'd keep the GPU loop separate from the CPU loop ... _*THIS*_ was available on eBay at one time for an unbelievably cheap price











But back to your 3-pump single loop, forget about the "Y" connectors and do a true parallel setup, see drawing below ... someone had attempted this with mismatched Corsair pumps (Asetek) but I can't find the link











It will be quite interesting to see your results in either case so keep us posted









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teaseal*
> 
> Hi OCN,
> 
> I'm a long time lurker but I figured it was time to create an account for a few questions. I'm looking into entering the world of water cooling. Before I go crazy with custom loops and all of that jazz, I figured I'd start with a good closed loop such as the Corsair H100i or the H80i. Naturally, I have a few questions which I'm having a hard time finding answers to sifting through this ginormous thread!
> 
> I suppose I'll go into a little background with what I am working with. Currently I am running an Intel Core i5-3570K (at stock settings) which I plan to delid and put some CLU or CLP under the spreader for some nicer temps. I have that chip socketed in an ASUS Sabertooth Z77. This is all inside a Corsair Obsidian 550D, which for those that are unfamiliar with, is a case that places emphasis on noise reduction. I plan to overclock the CPU some, although I have not decided quite yet how far I am going to take the chip. I will be seeking a balance of keeping a quieter case while attempting to get a decent performance boost from my overclock.
> 
> On to the questions! My first is directed towards those that are most likely running a top mounted H100i. About how noticeable is the sound level coming from the top of the case vs a rear mounted cooler? Since I am going to be attempting to keep my case fairly silent still, I am worried that dual fans pushing or pulling air from the top might negate much of the sound dampening that the 550D specializes in. Will a rear mounted cooler such as the H80i be a fair bit quieter than the dual fan top mounted H100i aimed more towards the direction of my hearing?
> 
> Secondly, and also related to a top mounted radiator, do those of you that are using a top mount find more issues with dust vs a rear mount? Looking at the top of my case shows how quickly dust can collect in the room. My feeling is that they would be fairly equal since dust is moving in the air at all times, but I figured it couldn't hurt to ask.
> 
> Lastly, I've seen many mentions of using Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans for the radiator over the stock Corsair fans. Would those be good replacement fans with my goals in mind? Are there any other fans that might be more suitable?
> 
> Thank you ahead of time for any information you all might have on any of those questions!


I agree with Merg's thoughts







But most important I'd also ask what your GPU(s) setup is? are they reference, blower type HSF/exhaust out the back of the case or other?, are they OC'd?, AND what is the main purpose of your rig? If it's mostly gaming? When everything is under load, with a good 5.1 or headphone sound setup you usually won't hear anything above your GPU's ... again all depending on your setup/use???

But if you do a lot of encoding/folding etc ... What I detect with your high noise acuity/sensitivity, I see you changing the fans on either unit and if that is the case I'd go with the H100i since you have the room and there will not be a noticeable difference between the H80i rear mount and the H100i top mount if you change out the fans. I also see additional 2x120mm fans or a 200mm fan (much quieter/better performance!) for your side panel for better case air flow, if your going to overclock and have high end GPU(s)? Yes someone has used a 200mm side panel fan with your case with simple modding with 2 extra holes? or none at all? ... can't find the link where I read that though?

And again depending on your main use for your rig ... SACRILAGE I know but I might recommend going for the Air cooled Noctua DH-14 for quiet/economical performance, even with all it's drawbacks . And since you don't have a window you won't have to look at the god-awful looking monstrosity ... but if you delid, or test multiple remounts with different chips, and need to get to your ram often then "Fuhgeddaboudit!" ... I ditched mine long ago for those very reasons








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> Hi OCN,
> 
> I am new to AIO watercooling and planning to get one soon... At the moment my choice is H110 and i do not plan to change the fans once i have it. I'd like to know if the H110 will fit into NZXT Source 210? I want to maximize my PC Case that supports 2x140 fans on top. Thanks.


Welcome







Unless you have pretty aggressive modding skills your probably out of luck







*{THIS}* guy had a heck of a time getting even an H100/i in there even without push/pull









Note: the H110 rad is appx longer than the h100 rad by 1.5 inches
Hydro Series H110 ...
• Radiator dimensions: 140mm x 312mm (12.28inches) x 29mm
Hydro Series H100/H100i:
Radiator dimensions: 122mm x 275mm(10.83 inches) x 27mm


----------



## Bluejay

It's not done yet. I have a CAD file I am working on for a custom piece that will mount in the PCI slots and support the graphics card and I need to wrap and move around some of the cables. I am also adding a red light strip on the left side at some point.

Corsair h100i (with an EVGA badge stuck on top of the pump







)
Corsair 540 Case
EVGA X79 Dark Motherboard
Intel 4930k processor at 4.3Ghz
Gigabyte Nvidia 670 Graphics Card

3 AF120 QM Front Fans
1 AF140 QM Rear Fan (took a little surgery to get that in, the fan is a bit too wide).
2 SP120 HP Fans on Radiator

Processor runs < 60C even during stress testing.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> 1st welcome to OCN, I think I see where your coming from-->going? If you loath case windows what is the big concern on how it looks vs performance? AND you make no mention of a second H50 for your SLI setup (3 pumps total?). Anyway, most would be very proud to own the custom loop rig above and that is really the way to go for cooling overclocked multiple GPU's/CPU, and I understand you already have a very nice huge 3x180 rad you want to put to good use. But IMHO without a custom loop, or at least the same type pump specs (2xH50's vs H100) I'd keep the GPU loop separate from the CPU loop ... _*THIS*_ was available on eBay at one time for an unbelievably cheap price
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But back to your 3-pump single loop, forget about the "Y" connectors and do a true parallel setup, see drawing below ... someone had attempted this with mismatched Corsair pumps (Asetek) but I can't find the link
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will be quite interesting to see your results in either case so keep us posted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I agree with Merg's thoughts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But most important I'd also ask what your GPU(s) setup is? are they reference, blower type HSF/exhaust out the back of the case or other?, are they OC'd?, AND what is the main purpose of your rig? If it's mostly gaming? When everything is under load, with a good 5.1 or headphone sound setup you usually won't hear anything above your GPU's ... again all depending on your setup/use???
> 
> But if you do a lot of encoding/folding etc ... What I detect with your high noise acuity/sensitivity, I see you changing the fans on either unit and if that is the case I'd go with the H100i since you have the room and there will not be a noticeable difference between the H80i rear mount and the H100i top mount if you change out the fans. I also see additional 2x120mm fans or a 200mm fan (much quieter/better performance!) for your side panel for better case air flow, if your going to overclock and have high end GPU(s)? Yes someone has used a 200mm side panel fan with your case with simple modding with 2 extra holes? or none at all? ... can't find the link where I read that though?
> 
> And again depending on your main use for your rig ... SACRILAGE I know but I might recommend going for the Air cooled Noctua DH-14 for quiet/economical performance, even with all it's drawbacks . And since you don't have a window you won't have to look at the god-awful looking monstrosity ... but if you delid, or test multiple remounts with different chips, and need to get to your ram often then "Fuhgeddaboudit!" ... I ditched mine long ago for those very reasons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you have pretty aggressive modding skills your probably out of luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *{THIS}* guy had a heck of a time getting even an H100/i in there even without push/pull
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note: the H110 rad is appx longer than the h100 rad by 1.5 inches
> Hydro Series H110 ...
> • Radiator dimensions: 140mm x 312mm (12.28inches) x 29mm
> Hydro Series H100/H100i:
> Radiator dimensions: 122mm x 275mm(10.83 inches) x 27mm


Wow thanks for your help and response. I really appreciate it. +rep to you. I'm gonna look to the link you provided.


----------



## Betakaiser

Hi all I recently picked up a H100i and notice that load temps seem really high on prime95 for a 4770k @ 4.2Ghz vcore set at 1.21. Temps are in high 80s low 90s I have remounted the plate several times now and reapplied with same results. I've never had issue applying paste in past so I know that not the case. I do have the pump cable hooked up to sata power cable and the pump is reading 2200 rpm in the link software. To add another thing I've tested 5 4770k with same result on temp at around same vcore and speed, would like to know if these are normal results for 4770k or that I have a defective H100i. The other pastes I have been using to are NT-H1, IC7 diamond, and MX-4 as well as stock paste the first time and the fans I'm using are Noctua NF-12.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Betakaiser*
> 
> Hi all I recently picked up a H100i and notice that load temps seem really high on prime95 for a 4770k @ 4.2Ghz vcore set at 1.21. Temps are in high 80s low 90s I have remounted the plate several times now and reapplied with same results. I've never had issue applying paste in past so I know that not the case. I do have the pump cable hooked up to sata power cable and the pump is reading 2200 rpm in the link software. To add another thing I've tested 5 4770k with same result on temp at around same vcore and speed, would like to know if these are normal results for 4770k or that I have a defective H100i. The other pastes I have been using to are NT-H1, IC7 diamond, and MX-4 as well as stock paste the first time and the fans I'm using are Noctua NF-12.


I think this was a common problem for Haswell and Ivy B microprocessors and many have decided to delid the IHS. Someone correct me if i'm wrong.


----------



## Betakaiser

Here is some picture of fan orientation:


Picture of stock clock and vcore:


And Finally OCed @ 4.2 with a 1.21 vcore but prime its 1.248


I also would hate to delid since its a bad OC chip to begin with and the other 4 were bad at OCing as well. I have bad luck


----------



## teaseal

Thank you both for the responses.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> There will be some sound difference between the H80 and H100, but I don't think it will be that much.


From my reading so far, I've seen the H80i and the H100i registering a fairly similar dBA. I've seen some tests saying one is higher than another. With scores like that I can only assume a margin of error in their testing or a slight difference in fan quality. Regardless, they seem to be very close. With that in mind I would lean more towards the H100i, however, I still wonder if sound projected up towards my direction would be easier to hear versus sound being projected out of the rear of the case in the direction of the underside of my desk. My thinking is that perhaps the sound would be less as it would be bouncing down below me before reaching my ears.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> The Scythe AP15 GT fans are an excellent choice for performance/noise.


Thank you. I'm definitely leaning towards getting these. I'm still keeping my eyes open for other alternatives, but so far these do look very nice.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Dust will likely be about the same with the H80 or H100, however you can really reduce dust by using the cooler as exhaust instead of intake. The temperature difference will likely only be a couple of degrees to both your case and your cpu.


This was my thinking as well. The temperature difference doesn't seem to be enough to make too much of a difference. It also just makes more sense considering I have an intake at the front of my case already. It does look like it might be a bit more of a pain to clean the dust as I'd need to remove the fans, but that doesn't concern me too much.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Last, I have to wonder at your choice of case if you plan on overclocking. Overclocking will cause the system to generate more heat, and the quiet capability of your case is achieved by using acoustic insulation and covers, which also may increase the heat inside your case. You might find yourself removing the side and top covers to get the airflow you need for overclocking, which would defeat the silent design of the case.
> 
> However, I haven't tried the 550D myself, so be sure to let us know how it goes. We will be interested in your idle temps, and your load temps running Prime 95 and Furmark.


It's true that the case is not the best out there for overclocking. However, it also isn't the worst either. I was actually quite pleased with how well the case was performing as I was expecting much worse scores due to the noise cancellation properties of the case. The overall layout of the case is still designed very well and I should be able to get some nice airflow through the case with no issues.

There will definitely be a balancing act on how to get the best performance out of my PC without losing too much sound reduction.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I agree with Merg's thoughts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But most important I'd also ask what your GPU(s) setup is? are they reference, blower type HSF/exhaust out the back of the case or other?, are they OC'd?, AND what is the main purpose of your rig? If it's mostly gaming? When everything is under load, with a good 5.1 or headphone sound setup you usually won't hear anything above your GPU's ... again all depending on your setup/use???


I am currently running a single ASUS GTX660 TI-DC2O-2GD5. The card is factory overclocked and I have not attempted any further overclocking yet. The card does have a rear exhaust so if I were to get a H80i I would most likely be running it as exhaust as well.

I suppose the main purpose of my machine is gaming. I usually have headphones on while I game which of course would block me from hearing most external sound. As my machine is right now with the stock Intel cooler, I can just barely hear it if I listen very carefully or move my ear next to the case. It's a very quiet machine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> But if you do a lot of encoding/folding etc ... What I detect with your high noise acuity/sensitivity, I see you changing the fans on either unit and if that is the case I'd go with the H100i since you have the room and there will not be a noticeable difference between the H80i rear mount and the H100i top mount if you change out the fans. I also see additional 2x120mm fans or a 200mm fan (much quieter/better performance!) for your side panel for better case air flow, if your going to overclock and have high end GPU(s)? Yes someone has used a 200mm side panel fan with your case with simple modding with 2 extra holes? or none at all? ... can't find the link where I read that though?


While I don't do any folding or encoding, my secondary use of the machine involves a lot of compiling. In this situation I would be seeing a lot of high CPU usage and with it, higher temperatures and louder fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> And again depending on your main use for your rig ... SACRILAGE I know but I might recommend going for the Air cooled Noctua DH-14 for quiet/economical performance, even with all it's drawbacks . And since you don't have a window you won't have to look at the god-awful looking monstrosity ... but if you delid, or test multiple remounts with different chips, and need to get to your ram often then "Fuhgeddaboudit!" ... I ditched mine long ago for those very reasons


I definitely have not ruled out air cooling quite yet. I have kept my eyes on several air coolers such as the Thermalright Silver Arrow SB-E, Phanteks PH-TC14PE, Noctua NH-D14 (It burns my eyes with it's ugliness), Be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 2, and a few others. I have considered these may end up being a fair bit quieter as much of the sound may be reduced inside the case.

Once again, I appreciate the responses!


----------



## Mergatroid

FYI, I'm using a Corsair 600T myself, and also using an H100 as top exhaust. Although I have changed my fans, I don't hear the H100 at all.

My case is situated to my right and below me in a compartment in my desk. When I'm gaming, I hear my two HD6970 reference card fans (which are very loud) and I also hear the 200mm 166cfm NZXT fan I have put in the front of my case (because I turn it up to full RPM when I'm gaming to keep a positive pressure in my case), but I don't hear my H100 at all (I'm using two Scythe Slipstream 110 cfm PWM fans connected to the motnerboard).

If you're going to be using Scythe AP15 GT fans, I don't think you have anything to worry about for noise.

Lastly, because I have a positive pressure in my case (I have modded it for a second intake fan on the bottom, which is a 120mm case fan) I have no dust issues at all. Every three months I do a very light cleaning inside my case. My 200mm and 120mm intake fans are both filtered and they catch 99% of the dust. Because I'm using the H100 as exhaust, I have never had to remove it from the case to clean it as it hardly gets any dust at all.

This is a little bit older picture of a slightly older build, but it does show where my PC is located.


----------



## teaseal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> FYI, I'm using a Corsair 600T myself, and also using an H100 as top exhaust. Although I have changed my fans, I don't hear the H100 at all.
> 
> My case is situated to my right and below me in a compartment in my desk. When I'm gaming, I hear my two HD6970 reference card fans (which are very loud) and I also hear the 200mm 166cfm NZXT fan I have put in the front of my case (because I turn it up to full RPM when I'm gaming to keep a positive pressure in my case), but I don't hear my H100 at all (I'm using two Scythe Slipstream 110 cfm PWM fans connected to the motnerboard).
> 
> If you're going to be using Scythe AP15 GT fans, I don't think you have anything to worry about for noise.
> 
> Lastly, because I have a positive pressure in my case (I have modded it for a second intake fan on the bottom, which is a 120mm case fan) I have no dust issues at all. Every three months I do a very light cleaning inside my case. My 200mm and 120mm intake fans are both filtered and they catch 99% of the dust. Because I'm using the H100 as exhaust, I have never had to remove it from the case to clean it as it hardly gets any dust at all.
> 
> This is a little bit older picture of a slightly older build, but it does show where my PC is located.


That is very useful information. Have you any experience running four fans on your H100i?

Also, I believe I have the same speakers as you do in that picture. I've had them for about 15 years and they are still going strong! I don't use them as much as I used to as my current living situation requires headphones more often.


----------



## EliteReplay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> FYI, I'm using a Corsair 600T myself, and also using an H100 as top exhaust. Although I have changed my fans, I don't hear the H100 at all.
> 
> My case is situated to my right and below me in a compartment in my desk. When I'm gaming, I hear my two HD6970 reference card fans (which are very loud) and I also hear the 200mm 166cfm NZXT fan I have put in the front of my case (because I turn it up to full RPM when I'm gaming to keep a positive pressure in my case), but I don't hear my H100 at all (I'm using two Scythe Slipstream 110 cfm PWM fans connected to the motnerboard).
> 
> If you're going to be using Scythe AP15 GT fans, I don't think you have anything to worry about for noise.
> 
> Lastly, because I have a positive pressure in my case (I have modded it for a second intake fan on the bottom, which is a 120mm case fan) I have no dust issues at all. Every three months I do a very light cleaning inside my case. My 200mm and 120mm intake fans are both filtered and they catch 99% of the dust. Because I'm using the H100 as exhaust, I have never had to remove it from the case to clean it as it hardly gets any dust at all.
> 
> This is a little bit older picture of a slightly older build, but it does show where my PC is located.


can u show us how to mod the case to take a 120mm fan on the bottom with dust filter? really interested on doing so. thanks


----------



## phre0n

I really like this photo of mine, so i figured i'd throw it up here


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teaseal*
> 
> Thank you both for the responses.
> From my reading so far, I've seen the H80i and the H100i registering a fairly similar dBA. I've seen some tests saying one is higher than another. With scores like that I can only assume a margin of error in their testing or a slight difference in fan quality. Regardless, they seem to be very close. With that in mind I would lean more towards the H100i, however, I still wonder if sound projected up towards my direction would be easier to hear versus sound being projected out of the rear of the case in the direction of the underside of my desk. My thinking is that perhaps the sound would be less as it would be bouncing down below me before reaching my ears.
> 
> There will definitely be a balancing act on how to get the best performance out of my PC without losing too much sound reduction.
> I am currently running a single ASUS GTX660 TI-DC2O-2GD5. The card is factory overclocked and I have not attempted any further overclocking yet. The card does have a rear exhaust so if I were to get a H80i I would most likely be running it as exhaust as well.
> 
> I suppose the main purpose of my machine is gaming. I usually have headphones on while I game which of course would block me from hearing most external sound. As my machine is right now with the stock Intel cooler, I can just barely hear it if I listen very carefully or move my ear next to the case. It's a very quiet machine.
> While I don't do any folding or encoding, my secondary use of the machine involves a lot of compiling. In this situation I would be seeing a lot of high CPU usage and with it, higher temperatures and louder fans.
> 
> I definitely have not ruled out air cooling quite yet. I have kept my eyes on several air coolers such as the Thermalright Silver Arrow SB-E, Phanteks PH-TC14PE, Noctua NH-D14 (It burns my eyes with it's ugliness), Be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 2, and a few others. I have considered these may end up being a fair bit quieter as much of the sound may be reduced inside the case.
> 
> Once again, I appreciate the responses!


Very Good! Your thought process and info sharing makes commenting/suggestions painless








Some quick additional points ...

1) IMHO an H80i will not project any less noise up through the top vents than an H100i as you will most likely have fans there for good case circulation in either event. Go with the H100i Top Exhaust, try the stock fans 1st on lowest setting, but depending on your OC, be prepared to swap them out with the aftermarket GT AP-15's or a lot of guys like the Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition for quiet performance/looks over the Noctua's NF F12's etc etc etc

2) Your Asus 660GTX is not a "reference" style card and even though it has a rear exhaust most of the heat from that style HSF will dump into your case, so take that into consideration for case airflow and setup. Also note the first throttling point for Kepler is at 70C so you'll want to stay under that if possible. You might also consider reseating the 660's HSF with some MX-4 or any other comparable TIM if temps become a problem. Again look into some additional fans for your side cover if this is a problem as previously mentioned.
As Merg said it's a "Balancing Act", but also remember your 3570K can take several more degrees of heat abuse without throttling or degrading performance than your GPU can in a gaming setup


----------



## blaze2210

Just joined in on the fun:


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teaseal*
> 
> That is very useful information. Have you any experience running four fans on your H100i?
> 
> Also, I believe I have the same speakers as you do in that picture. I've had them for about 15 years and they are still going strong! I don't use them as much as I used to as my current living situation requires headphones more often.


Funny you should ask.

Here is the second build I did in this case:





Two fans inside and two up top at the front. I was using the stock fans as push and the Scythe fans I have now as pull. Honestly I didn't see much of a temperature difference between that and just push.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> can u show us how to mod the case to take a 120mm fan on the bottom with dust filter? really interested on doing so. thanks


I did this:







I have a magnetic filter on the bottom now so I can easily remove it for washing.


----------



## EliteReplay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Funny you should ask.
> 
> Here is the second build I did in this case:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two fans inside and two up top at the front. I was using the stock fans as push and the Scythe fans I have now as pull. Honestly I didn't see much of a temperature difference between that and just push.
> I did this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a magnetic filter on the bottom now so I can easily remove it for washing.


how do i get those dust filter on the fan? did u makes them or just buy them like that?


----------



## pc-illiterate

the fan filter.
http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-120mm-Filter-Grill-FF121/dp/B0036WTDHK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1379692973&sr=8-1&keywords=silverstone+120mm+fan+filter
the filter screws to the fan using plain old fan screws
i have 4 of them sitting in a box in my closet. they are very good filters not restricting flow by much


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> how do i get those dust filter on the fan? did u makes them or just buy them like that?


http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX28858

http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX39959

http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX43460

http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX43458

The FF121B are pretty nice looking filters and they come clean pretty good, but they screw on using fan screws, so you have to unscrew them to clean them. Still, I've seen them on a lot of stock cases and custom builds.

Here's a pic of an older computer I customized. I cut a 120mm hole in the front for mounting an H50 cooler, and used one of those filters to cover the hole:



I'm using the FF122 on the bottom of my 600T now. I can just pull it off, wash it in the sink and when it's dry slap it back on.


----------



## RB Snake

All the LEDs have died except for the green one on my H100i. Tried updating everything. cbf taking it out and getting a replacement (need it running 24/7), but still very disappointed in this Corsair.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RB Snake*
> 
> All the LEDs have died except for the green one on my H100i. Tried updating everything. cbf taking it out and getting a replacement (need it running 24/7), but still very disappointed in this Corsair.


I believe this is software issue. The hardware itself most likely is fine. Try:-

Create new profile & delete the old one
Uninstall the Corsair Link software, see if this "reset" the LEDs
Disconnect the USB cable, see if this "reset" the LEDs


----------



## ozzy1925

hello,i am using my h110 with my corsair c70 push and pull. The 2 top fans are outside the case and making noise and i will remove these outside fans and will use the only 2.I would like to know which set up will be better: Use the inside fans below the radiator as an exhaust or on the top as an exhaust ?


----------



## blaze2210

It would most likely be better to keep the fans on the inside of the case to push air out through the radiator versus trying to have the fans pull the air through it.


----------



## echo27fire

Yo. Love the h100i, though right now I'm kinda torn about setting up something custom....


----------



## MrSharkington

Hi, im trying to find the latest firmware for the h100i but i am not exactly sure were to look, can anyone link me to where to download it? Thanks


----------



## dervladimir

Can I join you?


----------



## Red1

Great Cooler but stock fans are absolute garbage


----------



## pc-illiterate

the stock corsair fans arent garbage. they are awesome. the only problem is they are loud. it doesnt make them garbage.


----------



## Red1

The cooler costs $139. At that price they better include some decent fans. I had an Antec Khuler 620 before this, which costed me $59, and it was whisper quiet so I was just disappointed with the fans that Corsair provided and one of them was making a rattling/buzzing noise which at nigh time was unbearable.


----------



## malmental

I just scored a NIB (open box) H70 with 2x 120mm fans to come with for $50..
gonna put that one on my 'Surround Boi' rig.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> It would most likely be better to keep the fans on the inside of the case to push air out through the radiator versus trying to have the fans pull the air through it.


so they better stay below the radiator?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> hello,i am using my h110 with my corsair c70 push and pull. The 2 top fans are outside the case and making noise and i will remove these outside fans and will use the only 2.I would like to know which set up will be better: Use the inside fans below the radiator as an exhaust or on the top as an exhaust ?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> so they better stay below the radiator?
Click to expand...

Yes that is the most common and typical setup for a Push - Top/Exhaust ... although depending on your overclock and overall case circulation you would probably not see a degradation of more than 1c-2c, maybe? none at all, if you had the fans in a Pull config on top of the rad but still inside the case with your overall present Top/Exhaust config ...









WHICH reminds me ... you have a very similar setup to *[THIS GUY]* who has a 4770K and an H110 and is getting horrible temps ... maybe you could help him out with some baseline and overclocked load temps with SCREENSHOTS for comparison


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> so they better stay below the radiator?


The temperature difference between using push and pull will be very small. Just about the only test I've come across shows the push fans having a slight edge at higher RPMs while the pull fans seem to have a slight advantage at lower RPMs. The testing isn't perfect, but it's all I have found atm.

http://martinsliquidlab.i4memory.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html

The bottom chart shows push vs pull.


----------



## blaze2210

Basically, the "correct" orientation for you completely depends on how you currently have the fans in your case configured. If you have mostly intake fans, then it would most likely be better for the radiator fans to be exhaust - and vise versa. From the orientations I personally have used, and all of the articles and posts I've read, there is no "one size fits all" mounting solution for these fans.

For my H100i, I went a completely different route: I'm only using the 2 stock fans and the one towards the back of the case is exhaust, while the one closer to the front is intake. So far, I've been running it like this for about 2 weeks and my temps are pretty good, considering my room is the warmest in the house.


----------



## Assyle

Hey guys,

Does anybody knows why h100i led lighting changes it color to white after each reboot/sleep mode? I have installed last firmware and software but nothing helped. Is there any fix for that?


----------



## Ukkooh

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Is this enough to join the club?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukkooh*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this enough to join the club?


Almost!


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukkooh*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this enough to join the club?


trying to cool that 'Athlon' huh.?


----------



## Ukkooh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> trying to cool that 'Athlon' huh.?


I find it very hard to pull more than 100mhz OC out of it without ln2.


----------



## blaze2210

I think they'll work out better when they're installed....I'm not sure you can cool a PC through cardboard....


----------



## malmental




----------



## MrSharkington

Hey guys, I've had my h100i since may and it's always had this weird noise coming out of it. I've tapped the pump moved the case around and even changed the radiator position but it's still there. Not that it bothers me enough to RMA, but can someone confirm if they are just infact air bubbles?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> Hey guys, I've had my h100i since may and it's always had this weird noise coming out of it. I've tapped the pump moved the case around and even changed the radiator position but it's still there. Not that it bothers me enough to RMA, but can someone confirm if they are just infact air bubbles?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That almost sounds like rattling. Maybe from the pump? I would personally RMA it before it has a chance to get worse.


----------



## MrSharkington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> That almost sounds like rattling. Maybe from the pump? I would personally RMA it before it has a chance to get worse.


it seems to go away if i tilt the case though but it comes back as soon as i move it back down


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> it seems to go away if i tilt the case though but it comes back as soon as i move it back down


What fans are you using?


----------



## Red1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> Hey guys, I've had my h100i since may and it's always had this weird noise coming out of it. I've tapped the pump moved the case around and even changed the radiator position but it's still there. Not that it bothers me enough to RMA, but can someone confirm if they are just infact air bubbles?
> 
> Stop the fans with your hand one at a time and check if the noise goes away. Mine did this buzzing/rattling noise and I thought it was the pump but no it was the fans. Simply garbage fans which need replacement.


----------



## Destrto

I meant to edit my post earlier and suggest what Bradley mentioned. The fans could be the culprit.


----------



## Ukkooh

Has anyone in here tried push/pull wit h100i stock fans? Would I get better perfromance with that setup than with my current GT AP-15 p/p setup?


----------



## MrSharkington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> What fans are you using?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> Hey guys, I've had my h100i since may and it's always had this weird noise coming out of it. I've tapped the pump moved the case around and even changed the radiator position but it's still there. Not that it bothers me enough to RMA, but can someone confirm if they are just infact air bubbles?
> 
> Stop the fans with your hand one at a time and check if the noise goes away. Mine did this buzzing/rattling noise and I thought it was the pump but no it was the fans. Simply garbage fans which need replacement.
> 
> 
> 
> This also happened during the short period of time i had the stock fans. I now have Noctua NF-F12 fans, maybe it could be cause theyre plugged into the pump?
Click to expand...


----------



## Dr Slaughter




----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukkooh*
> 
> Has anyone in here tried push/pull wit h100i stock fans? Would I get better perfromance with that setup than with my current GT AP-15 p/p setup?


If you used 4 stock fans, you might get a few c better temps than the AP-15 fans, but at the cost of a lot more noise. Is a couple of degrees c worth all that noise?

Also, you only get a couple of c difference using push/pull anyway, although if you have room I don't see why not go with p/p.

If you have 4 x AP-15, in your position I would stick with that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Slaughter*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build. Love your psu. That shows good taste.


----------



## Dr Slaughter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> If you used 4 stock fans, you might get a few c better temps than the AP-15 fans, but at the cost of a lot more noise. Is a couple of degrees c worth all that noise?
> 
> Also, you only get a couple of c difference using push/pull anyway, although if you have room I don't see why not go with p/p.
> 
> If you have 4 x AP-15, in your position I would stick with that.
> Nice build. Love your psu. That shows good taste.


Its a p/p config... u haven't seen the rear... i Got a fan controller...


----------



## Dr Slaughter

thanks for liking bro









this PSU is rock solid... i like it


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Slaughter*
> 
> Its a p/p config... u haven't seen the rear... i Got a fan controller...


That's a very nice looking fan controller!


----------



## Dr Slaughter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> That's a very nice looking fan controller!


Thanx bro.. At first i choosen the Bitfenix Fan controller...but I preferred not to use touchscreen coz its so sensitive... hehehe.. and i like knobs 2...hehehe ...







that works perfectly fine right now.







.. It is so soft to turn and i can manage to set voltage on it...


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Slaughter*
> 
> Thanx bro.. At first i choosen the Bitfenix Fan controller...but I preferred not to use touchscreen coz its so sensitive... hehehe.. and i like knobs 2...hehehe ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that works perfectly fine right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. It is so soft to turn and i can manage to set voltage on it...


That one is a lot better than the last fan controller I had:

Logisys Fan Controller


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Slaughter*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for liking bro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this PSU is rock solid... i like it


I have been using the same psu for a few years. It handles all the abuse I throw its way without any complaints. Great psu for sure.
I also like your choice of a fan controller. Lamptron makes some really nice stuff. I'm using this atm:







It has a door that can be shut and the display can be shut off. Scythe had one that looked a lot like the Lamptron one you have, but the knobs could be pushed in so the front would be flat. Unfortunately when I went to looking for it I couldn't find it anywhere.

Before I got the NZXT LED controller and this scythe fan controller, I had a few more fans in my case so I was using two fan controllers, one was a Zalman, and the other an Aero Strike-X which looked pretty sweet in this case (I just use the fan controllers for my case fans, and I use PWM fans on my H100 and let my motherboard control them).



Unfortunately (or not depending on whether or not you like flashy fan controllers) I reduced the number of fans in my case, and since I needed all the front 5 1/4" bays, I removed those two controllers and installed the Scythe. I really like the Lamptron though. Very classy looking just like some of the Scythe controllers.


----------



## MrSharkington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> Hey guys, I've had my h100i since may and it's always had this weird noise coming out of it. I've tapped the pump moved the case around and even changed the radiator position but it's still there. Not that it bothers me enough to RMA, but can someone confirm if they are just infact air bubbles?
> 
> Stop the fans with your hand one at a time and check if the noise goes away. Mine did this buzzing/rattling noise and I thought it was the pump but no it was the fans. Simply garbage fans which need replacement.
> 
> 
> 
> So I tried to stop the fans, it's definitely still there and coming from the pump.
Click to expand...


----------



## phre0n

not sure if i uploaded a new photo after i got my replacement.. so here it is!


----------



## Marafice Eye

Hey folks, guess I can join the club now. Got me an H100i, loving it so far.


----------



## Dr Slaughter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I have been using the same psu for a few years. It handles all the abuse I throw its way without any complaints. Great psu for sure.
> I also like your choice of a fan controller. Lamptron makes some really nice stuff. I'm using this atm:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It has a door that can be shut and the display can be shut off. Scythe had one that looked a lot like the Lamptron one you have, but the knobs could be pushed in so the front would be flat. Unfortunately when I went to looking for it I couldn't find it anywhere.
> 
> Before I got the NZXT LED controller and this scythe fan controller, I had a few more fans in my case so I was using two fan controllers, one was a Zalman, and the other an Aero Strike-X which looked pretty sweet in this case (I just use the fan controllers for my case fans, and I use PWM fans on my H100 and let my motherboard control them).
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately (or not depending on whether or not you like flashy fan controllers) I reduced the number of fans in my case, and since I needed all the front 5 1/4" bays, I removed those two controllers and installed the Scythe. I really like the Lamptron though. Very classy looking just like some of the Scythe controllers.


WOW that looks nice ....









yeah2x


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Slaughter*
> 
> WOW that looks nice ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yeah2x


Thanks man.
That bottom picture was my favorite build in this case. I had the H100 working with p/p, and lots of fans kept everything cool. Then I upgraded from my socket 775 core 2 quad to the socket 1155 sandy bridge i5. I couldn't get p/p to work anymore without off-setting the entire rad because of the position of the RAM. Since that meant I was going to be removing a set of fans, and a chipset fan from the old board, and I decided to remove a fan on the hard drive cage, so I only needed one fan controller. I miss that build though. It was functional and looked great.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phre0n*
> 
> not sure if i uploaded a new photo after i got my replacement.. so here it is!


That looks really hot bud. Nice job.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phre0n*
> 
> I really like this photo of mine, so i figured i'd throw it up here
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phre0n*
> 
> not sure if i uploaded a new photo after i got my replacement.. so here it is!
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Just joined in on the fun:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *echo27fire*
> 
> Yo. Love the h100i, though right now I'm kinda torn about setting up something custom....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dervladimir*
> 
> Can I join you?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1*
> 
> Great Cooler but stock fans are absolute garbage


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukkooh*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this enough to join the club?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marafice Eye*
> 
> Hey folks, guess I can join the club now. Got me an H100i, loving it so far.


WELCOME to ALL!









But what is up with all the proud new owners of H100i's in the last week, not sharing any info on their setup, overclocks, load temps, overall improvements, replacements, or thoughts of their upgrade to the H100i?









At least some of you have your system specs filled in ... see my sig


----------



## Ukkooh

For me it is hard to compare the temps because I lapped my cpu when switching from h100 to h100i. Anyway the difference is about 8°C compared to my old temps.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> WELCOME to ALL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But what is up with all the proud new owners of H100i's in the last week, not sharing any info on their setup, overclocks, load temps, overall improvements, replacements, or thoughts of their upgrade to the H100i?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least some of you have your system specs filled in ... see my sig


I find it odd that you listed my pic in that post, yet I have my system specs listed in my sig....

EDIT: Just double-checked my "sig rig", and I even have my CPU speed listed in there....


----------



## ozzy1925

Hello, i was using my h110 with my i 4770k cpu made a perfect install (followed 1155 socket fitting instructions)motherboard is msi z87 mpower max. I was having very high temperatures.I decided to uninstall my cooler, and when i uninstall it i saw that 1 corner of the cooler(h110) didnt seat on my cpu.I re install it at least 10 times but all the time one corner doesnt fit (i even tried to move the cooler90 degrees still same)and as you can see on the pictures one corner is always out of thermal paste.(and yes i put enough paste on the middle of the cpu) What should i do?Anybody having the same issue?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Hello, i was using my h110 with my i 4770k cpu made a perfect install (followed 1155 socket fitting instructions)motherboard is msi z87 mpower max. I was having very high temperatures.I decided to uninstall my cooler, and when i uninstall it i saw that 1 corner of the cooler(h110) didnt seat on my cpu.I re install it at least 10 times but all the time one corner doesnt fit (i even tried to move the cooler90 degrees still same)and as you can see on the pictures one corner is always out of thermal paste.(and yes i put enough paste on the middle of the cpu) What should i do?Anybody having the same issue?


I had a similar issue. I ended up taking 4 of the washers that came with the H100i, and putting them on the backplate - between the plastic washer (that "snaps" into place), and the backplate. After installing the cooler, you'll be able to get much better pressure between the pump and the CPU.

I'm using the Z87-GD65 Gaming Edition board...


----------



## phre0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> That looks really hot bud. Nice job.


Thank you very much!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I had a similar issue. I ended up taking 4 of the washers that came with the H100i, and putting them on the backplate - between the plastic washer (that "snaps" into place), and the backplate. After installing the cooler, you'll be able to get much better pressure between the pump and the CPU.
> 
> I'm using the Z87-GD65 Gaming Edition board...


can you show me the pictures of the washers?
edit:h110 doesnt come with washers only 2 sided tape to be placed on the bracket should i add some washers ?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> can you show me the pictures of the washers?




That plastic ring on the backplate should come off rather easily, then just put the metal washers on each corner and put the plastic rings back on. Pretty easy, and Corsair provided the metal washers....









Sorry about the pic quality, I didn't take any pics of it when I installed it. I just pulled the side off my case and took a pic with my phone.


----------



## blaze2210

Did you use the double-sided tape in your initial install?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> 
> 
> That plastic ring on the backplate should come off rather easily, then just put the metal washers on each corner and put the plastic rings back on. Pretty easy, and Corsair provided the metal washers....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about the pic quality, I didn't take any pics of it when I installed it. I just pulled the side off my case and took a pic with my phone.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Did you use the double-sided tape in your initial install?


yes h110 does come with the tape no washers in the kit. http://www.corsair.com/us/media/cms/manual/49-001175_rev_AA_H110_QSG.pdf


----------



## Pierce

does anyone know if you need a reciept for corsair RMA? id like to buy my friends h100i, but he doesnt have any documentation to go with it. Its at a great price so should I still buy it?

thanks


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierce*
> 
> does anyone know if you need a reciept for corsair RMA? id like to buy my friends h100i, but he doesnt have any documentation to go with it. Its at a great price so should I still buy it?thanks


No you don't need anything, I RMA mine and it was the most painless experience.

tappin from the Nexus 4


----------



## Pierce

wow, no receipt? so you just need the box right? thats awesome!

i actually read some of your posts earlier and was hoping youd reply. You arent experiencing the same problems, right?

thanks a lot.


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierce*
> 
> wow, no receipt? so you just need the box right? thats awesome!i actually read some of your posts earlier and was hoping youd reply. You arent experiencing the same problems, right?thanks a lot.


Tbh I don't know what the prob was, it just wasn't cooling at all. I tried everything except turning it and mounting it that way BC I had already sent it off when I got that reply.

The new one is working like before, other than idling high 30s when my other one was high 20s it's fine. It actually runs high 60s on load with identical oc as before, used to be mid 70s. That could be BC of my air 540 though and newer better mobo. All I sent in when I rma'd it was the unit itself, no fans, or hardware. They'll send a brand new unopened unit with everything so you'll have extra fans for the trouble.

tappin from the Nexus 4


----------



## Hawxie

I have 3 questions.
Is the H90 noisy?
Can I run the pump on 5 and 7 volts?
Would I see a decrease in noise and temperatures if I move from H70 to H90? ( Wont be running stock fans ).


----------



## Menphisto

Hay, can someone who have a corsair h80i tell me the dimensions of this pls. :


----------



## blaze2210

Corsair H80i Dimensions (from the Corsair site):

Radiator dimensions: 120mm x 152mm x 38mm
Fan dimensions: 120mm x 120mm x 25mm
Fan speed: 2700 RPM
Fan airflow: 77 CFM
Fan dBA: 37.68 dBA
Fan static pressure: 4mm/H20

So that should be about 88mm thick with a fan on each side, including the radiator....


----------



## Wabbit16

Ordered my H80i today...so I should be joining this little group soon


----------



## Menphisto

Thanks but i mean not this i mean this little piece above the fan (think 2D in the pic, Like you look on the Front of it)


----------



## blaze2210

Well, according to the dimensions, it should be about 16mm on each end (32 mm total - top and bottom)....


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Menphisto*
> 
> Hay, can someone who have a corsair h80i tell me the dimensions of this pls. :


Well really we need an H80i owner to measure for you ... But here is my "Guess?" by eyeballing it ... the "top" portion your asking about looks to be appx 1/2 the height of the bottom part of the rad where the hose fittings are ...









[Radiator dimensions: 120mm (width) x *152mm (height)* x 38mm (depth)]
[152mm (height) - 120mm (fan) = 32mm = (Top 10mm + bottom 22mm)]


----------



## Speedster159

I'm guessing you guys can answer this...

I'm getting a H100i from somebody from the states with the original invoice and still under warranty.

The problem is the LED is Dead and the fan controller is dead, he said it has just recently done that.

I'm bringing it to The Philippines, my question is can I RMA it in the Philippines even if the invoice is from the states?

Does it matter if im not the name on the invoice?

In RMA will they replace it with a new one?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedster159*
> 
> I'm guessing you guys can answer this...
> 
> I'm getting a H100i from somebody from the states with the original invoice and still under warranty.
> 
> The problem is the LED is Dead and the fan controller is dead, he said it has just recently done that.
> 
> I'm bringing it to The Philippines, my question is can I RMA it in the Philippines even if the invoice is from the states?
> 
> Does it matter if im not the name on the invoice?
> 
> In RMA will they replace it with a new one?


I don't believe the name on the invoice will matter, just that you have it and can prove it was purchased from whichever site.

I don't think ocation matters, but I may be wrong, when considering some places don't offer shipping to certain areas. You would just have to contact them and ask, first. And usually the shipping back to the company is handled by you.

If you request a replacement RMA, then if it is approved, they will send a new one.


----------



## blaze2210

So you know, Corsair's warranties aren't transferable. Why would you buy a messed up H100 (or anything for that matter), and hope the company will just give you a new one? Just buy a new one....


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> So you know, Corsair's warranties aren't transferable. Why would you buy a messed up H100 (or anything for that matter), and hope the company will just give you a new one? Just buy a new one....


So who told you that? I sold an H70 to a guy, and he insisted it didn't work properly (even though it worked perfectly for me). He decided to send it in for warranty, using my bill of sale, and Corsair had no problems with it. He told Corsair he bought it from me, so I don't think they have any problems transferring warranties as long as you can prove how old the unit is and where it was purchased (even though the guy was an idiot, trying to return an H70 that worked perfectly).


----------



## blaze2210

Well, if you look up Corsair's warranty, it CLEARLY states that the warranties are non-transferable....You'll also see the same thing coming from various Corsair reps in the forums....The majority of warranties in general are non-transferable....

As a matter of fact, that is the first line in their warranty: "*Corsair provides a non-transferable warranty to the purchaser of Corsair hardware product purchased from an authorized Corsair reseller.* "

Source: http://www.corsair.com/en/support/warranty/


----------



## Speedster159

Well I guess as long as I don't tell who I am I should be golden. Also seems like people have had success here.

Well im buying a used H100i because I can't quite afford a new one, and the pump does still work and is not making a weird noise, just the led and fan controller.

I'm just going to ask how RMA'ing works in the Philippines.


----------



## blaze2210

Well, the worst they can do is say no....I just thought I'd give you a heads-up on the policy details....


----------



## Speedster159

Well i got word from the Distributor in the Philippines ( that also handles RMA's here apparently ) i need to do this...

So Me < Corsair USA < Corsair Asia/Pacific < Corsair Philippine Distributor..

Corsair USA has to approve it and authorize Asia/Pacific to handle my RMA, then Asia/Pacific will authorize the Philippine Distributor to take my RMA. Good thing about living in the Philippines is you can usually just walk up to the office to take care of something... i asked the distributor what is their usual process and it's either by fowarder/courier or you can personally bring it over to their office.

I guess it's all up to Corsair USA.


----------



## pacho

Does anybody know if the H100/i back plate would work on the H110? or are there any other alternatives to the H110(Asetek) back plate?


----------



## Speedster159

Will Corsair accept an RMA with the Intel mounting screws gone? ( not the 2011 ones thou' )


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedster159*
> 
> Will Corsair accept an RMA with the Intel mounting screws gone? ( not the 2011 ones thou' )


Yes they will I did a rma myself only had the amd mount at the time they sent me a new h100i in a sealed original box.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Well, if you look up Corsair's warranty, it CLEARLY states that the warranties are non-transferable....You'll also see the same thing coming from various Corsair reps in the forums....The majority of warranties in general are non-transferable....
> 
> As a matter of fact, that is the first line in their warranty: "*Corsair provides a non-transferable warranty to the purchaser of Corsair hardware product purchased from an authorized Corsair reseller.* "
> 
> Source: http://www.corsair.com/en/support/warranty/


I guess it must depend on circumstances or something. The guy I was referring to had no problems getting it exchanged.


----------



## blaze2210

Well, it looks like I'll probably be finding out what their RMA process is like, since it seems like my H100i is performing worse than my Kuhler 620 at pretty much the same settings....Unless I misunderstood the performance that this unit is supposed to have, I was under the impression that it should keep temps lower while overclocking...

Anyone else using this H100i with an i5-4670k? If so, what temps are being seen?


----------



## Beatwolf

So it seems I damaged the mini usb to internal usb header cable. Corsair LINK doesn´t detect any fan speeds and I am not able to change them. Also I can´t seem to change the LED colour. Is all this controlled by the mini usb to internal header cable or could something else be wrong?


----------



## blaze2210

Are you using the latest firmware version? That sounds like a common issue with the older firmware versions....


----------



## Gir

So I've had an H100i since release, and two the blue and green LEDs burned out pretty sooner after, I've just never gotten around to RMA'ing it. Have they made any meaningful performance changes to the H100i since release?


----------



## Menphisto

Hi,
tomorrow i get my h80i so now my question is, is the pre applied thermal paste good? Or should i apply another one....


----------



## Richaye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Menphisto*
> 
> Hi,
> tomorrow i get my h80i so now my question is, is the pre applied thermal paste good? Or should i apply another one....


No need to, the pre applied thermal paste is better than most other choices. Plus it's what corsair recommends.


----------



## Menphisto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Richaye*
> 
> No need to, the pre applied thermal paste is better than most other choices. Plus it's what corsair recommends.


OK, thats good  because i never know the best way to apply thermal paste.....aand is this thermal paste really as good as it sounds


----------



## Speedster159

What happens if the cooler you're trying to RMA is already a return from a RMA? Do they pay for shipping costs to and from?


----------



## Ukkooh

For me they didn't offer to pay the postage but I asked them kindly and they agreed to pay for the shipping. Short version: Yes.


----------



## Wabbit16

What's the news on reliability of the H series coolers? There seems to be an awful amount of RMA's - is it to be expected with the added complexity of a pump, fan and radiator?


----------



## Speedster159

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukkooh*
> 
> For me they didn't offer to pay the postage but I asked them kindly and they agreed to pay for the shipping. Short version: Yes.


Was it the first RMA? Or was it already a replacement?


----------



## Ukkooh

2nd RMA.


----------



## starmanwarz

I'd like to get the Corsair h100i but I don't think it will fit in my case (Thermaltake Armor LCS, old case) because I have the PSU on top. Isn't the radiator supposed to go up there?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *starmanwarz*
> 
> I'd like to get the Corsair h100i but I don't think it will fit in my case (Thermaltake Armor LCS, old case) because I have the PSU on top. Isn't the radiator supposed to go up there?


You can put the rad anywhere it will fit. Uh, doesn't your case have water cooling built-in?


----------



## blaze2210

Yeah, I just looked it up, that case has/had a liquid cooling setup in it - http://support.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?C=1433&ID=1888


----------



## starmanwarz

Well I was told that if I place it in front the tubes wont be able to reach the CPU so I have to look at other options. How about the H80i? Is it good for a 4770k?


----------



## Wabbit16

Got my H80i today, and installed it









They only gave me 4 washers instead of 8 as was supposed to be included in the package, but I just omitted the washers on the fan that was not bolted to the case. I would rather have washers on the fan that carries the most load so to speak.

Temps are good, about the same as my Hyper 212+ at idle, but it is much quieter than it at load. Tell me, what difference between CPU and pump temps am I supposed to be getting at load? i.e is there a large margin between the CPU temp and the water temp at load?

Anyways, here are some pics









http://s1191.photobucket.com/user/W...or forums/IMG_4697Medium_zps4243f798.jpg.html

http://s1191.photobucket.com/user/W...or forums/IMG_4699Medium_zpsccfd9194.jpg.html


----------



## blaze2210

From what I've seen with the H100i, there is a pretty large difference between the liquid temp and the core temps. My liquid temp has never touched 35-40C, even while my core's temp was at 85C+


----------



## Ukkooh

Is your cpu delidded? If not then the bad contact with the IHS and die is the reason for that.


----------



## chowtyme2

Here is my Modded H100, on a delided 3770k. went from a 75C full load at 4.7 @ 1.21v to 58C



next step is to get rid of the ugly hose clamps


----------



## Wabbit16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> From what I've seen with the H100i, there is a pretty large difference between the liquid temp and the core temps. My liquid temp has never touched 35-40C, even while my core's temp was at 85C+


So it might be the same with the H80i. I thought it might be bad contact with the CPU, or I'm just not used to the water cooling way that things work








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukkooh*
> 
> Is your cpu delidded? If not then the bad contact with the IHS and die is the reason for that.


Nope, stock standard, except that I am running it at 4GHz currently. I thought maybe bad contact but I will see what others have to say first. It took me a good 1h30mins to fit the bloody thing in the case








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chowtyme2*
> 
> Here is my Modded H100, on a delided 3770k. went from a 75C full load at 4.7 @ 1.21v to 58C
> 
> 
> 
> next step is to get rid of the ugly hose clamps


Sweet! Like the purple lights...looks very good


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chowtyme2*
> 
> Here is my Modded H100, on a delided 3770k. went from a 75C full load at 4.7 @ 1.21v to 58C
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> next step is to get rid of the ugly hose clamps


Nice. 17c is great. Good job.


----------



## Ukkooh

Could someone with a H100i and a delidded 3770k post some screenshots with core temps and liquid temps from Corsair link? I'm starting to think that I'll have to remount my cooler and maybe redo the CLU on my die.


----------



## Yakikuze

hi, check out my worklog, currently using moded CORSAIR HYDRO SERIES H50 with swiftech res,
http://www.overclock.net/t/1423648/magnus-opus-2-0-sff-build/20


----------



## Wabbit16

It is almost 2 o' clock in the morning here but I have finally found out why I have such high temps - the CPU bracket was the wrong way around! I had it rotated 90 degrees to the left so the screws were causing the heatsink to not apply even pressure to my CPU.

Rotated it to the way it should be and my temps went from 80*C max to a lovely 65


----------



## barebackbadger

Just got rid of my prodigy and put most the components into a cooler master silencio 352
Thought i would mark the occasion with a corsair H55 (picked up fairly cheap in my local pc shop)

Sorry about quality of pic and messy graphic card cables, need to tidy them up


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barebackbadger*
> 
> Just got rid of my prodigy and put most the components into a cooler master silencio 352
> Thought i would mark the occasion with a corsair H55 (picked up fairly cheap in my local pc shop)
> 
> Sorry about quality of pic and messy graphic card cables, need to tidy them up


Nice! Looks good!


----------



## barebackbadger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Nice! Looks good!


Thanks, recieved my 7970 today it is HUGE! So decided to build it then realised my arctic freezer i30 wouldnt fit in the case
Read like 300 pages on this thread and decided on a corsair hydro and got the H55 for £40


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barebackbadger*
> 
> Thanks, recieved my 7970 today it is HUGE! So decided to build it then realised my arctic freezer i30 wouldnt fit in the case
> Read like 300 pages on this thread and decided on a corsair hydro and got the H55 for £40


Very nice!! That Arctic Freezer is a pretty beefy looking cooler....Out of curiosity, what thermal compound are you using for the H55?


----------



## barebackbadger

At the minute the one pre-applied to the h55
My local store had no compound in stock, so was going to look online tomorrow for some... Why?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barebackbadger*
> 
> At the minute the one pre-applied to the h55
> My local store had no compound in stock, so was going to look online tomorrow for some... Why?


Sheer curiosity....Recently, I've been trying out some different ones to see which suits my needs the best. I just got my order of "Gelid Solutions GC Extreme" and "Prolimatech PK3" yesterday, so I'm currently seeing how the GC Extreme works out....


----------



## robotluke123

My first build =)

i have upgraded from a gtx 660 ti to a 780, but everything but the window is what i had gotten when i was hooked into the pc gaming community =)

hope you like it sorry about picture quality (taken with an iphone)


----------



## toyz72

quick question about the h80i. is there anyway to tell which side is the return line without tearing it a part ? to mount this cooler in my node,i would have to mount it on its side.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barebackbadger*
> 
> At the minute the one pre-applied to the h55
> My local store had no compound in stock, so was going to look online tomorrow for some... Why?


The Dow Corning TIM that Corsair uses is as good as Shin Etsu TIM. There is no need to replace it unless you are removing the cooler.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> quick question about the h80i. is there anyway to tell which side is the return line without tearing it a part ? to mount this cooler in my node,i would have to mount it on its side.


Most likely, the return tube is the one on the right of the pump....That seems to be the norm....


----------



## barebackbadger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> The Dow Corning TIM that Corsair uses is as good as Shin Etsu TIM. There is no need to replace it unless you are removing the cooler.


Thats good to know
Quick question guys, not long got into "pc gaming" etc
Used speedfan to check temps etc, the cpu was at 56c and i had nothing running apart from speedfan (icloud in background) is this a normal temp or is that too hot? Anyway to make it cooler?
I have the corsair cpu cooler plugged into the cpu fan socket on motherboard and the fan on the cpu cooler plugged into the chassis fan socket, i assume this is correct?
I have the asrock z77e-itx, is there anything i can change in the bios etc to help make the cpu run cooler?
Sorry for all the questions guys


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barebackbadger*
> 
> Thats good to know
> Quick question guys, not long got into "pc gaming" etc
> Used speedfan to check temps etc, the cpu was at 56c and i had nothing running apart from speedfan (icloud in background) is this a normal temp or is that too hot? Anyway to make it cooler?
> I have the corsair cpu cooler plugged into the cpu fan socket on motherboard and the fan on the cpu cooler plugged into the chassis fan socket, i assume this is correct?
> I have the asrock z77e-itx, is there anything i can change in the bios etc to help make the cpu run cooler?
> Sorry for all the questions guys


I've personally never used SpeedFan, I use CoreTemp for my monitoring - seems to be more accurate (comes down to personal preference, I guess). Are you overclocking your CPU? Is the Corsair pump securely mounted to your CPU? When I first installed my H100i, it didn't mount securely onto the CPU - it was kinda loose. I ended up using a couple of the washers that came with the kit to space out the backplate from the motherboard in order to get a more secure mount.


----------



## barebackbadger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I've personally never used SpeedFan, I use CoreTemp for my monitoring - seems to be more accurate (comes down to personal preference, I guess). Are you overclocking your CPU? Is the Corsair pump securely mounted to your CPU? When I first installed my H100i, it didn't mount securely onto the CPU - it was kinda loose. I ended up using a couple of the washers that came with the kit to space out the backplate from the motherboard in order to get a more secure mount.


ok will try that.
yes its as tight as it can be and backplate is flush with motherboard


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barebackbadger*
> 
> ok will try that.
> yes its as tight as it can be and backplate is flush with motherboard


Ok, that eliminates the easy solutions. So what CPU are you runnning? And what speed are you running it at?


----------



## barebackbadger

just tried that coretemp, it says it is 32C?
its an i5 3570k at standard clock


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barebackbadger*
> 
> just tried that coretemp, it says it is 32C?
> its an i5 3570k at standard clock


CoreTemp is widely used due to its accuracy.







It seems like SpeedFan was probably reporting a different temp (not sure which one). CoreTemp and RealTemp are both good temp monitoring software to use.

At stock speeds, 32*C sounds more correct to me....


----------



## barebackbadger

thanks for all your help blaze2210, very much appreciated


----------



## iandroo888

had a h100 passed down to me but missing mounting brackets. i had gotten replacement brackets for the h80 before but today, when i used support chat, they wont send me a new bracket







did policy's change or did i just get lucky the first time?

on the bright side, i have an h50, h80, and h100 now XD


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barebackbadger*
> 
> thanks for all your help blaze2210, very much appreciated


No worries! Now that you know your temps are good, it's time to start the OC fun!!


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> had a h100 passed down to me but missing mounting brackets. i had gotten replacement brackets for the h80 before but today, when i used support chat, they wont send me a new bracket
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> did policy's change or did i just get lucky the first time?
> 
> on the bright side, i have an h50, h80, and h100 now XD


It looks like they're selling those individually now: Corsair Mounting Brackets


----------



## barebackbadger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> No worries! Now that you know your temps are good, it's time to start the OC fun!!


Bit too advanced for me at the moment
Just got the asus 7970 maxius platinum, which looks like it needs to be RMA'd, starts up black and white vertical lines and when it does boot up, it goes all glitchy then multiple colour vertical lines.. When i get that sorted will look into OC

On topic, what is a good silent fan to use on the h55/h60/h80 etc? I read something cannot just use a normal fan because of static pressure etc


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barebackbadger*
> 
> Bit too advanced for me at the moment
> Just got the asus 7970 maxius platinum, which looks like it needs to be RMA'd, starts up black and white vertical lines and when it does boot up, it goes all glitchy then multiple colour vertical lines.. When i get that sorted will look into OC


That sux....Definitely get that solved first, then the OC fun can begin....


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barebackbadger*
> 
> just tried that coretemp, it says it is 32C?
> its an i5 3570k at standard clock


It sounds to me like Speedfan was reporting your chipset temp. I use Speedfan all the time because you can customize it so nicely. It does take a while to get used to it and understand which temps are for what chips:

Once you sort out the temps and label them the way you like, Speedfan is great. Very accurate on Intel chips.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> It sounds to me like Speedfan was reporting your chipset temp. I use Speedfan all the time because you can customize it so nicely. It does take a while to get used to it and understand which temps are for what chips:
> 
> Once you sort out the temps and label then the way you like, Speedfan is great. Very accurate on Intel chips.


Personally, every time I tried to use Speedfan, it locked up my PC and caused a BSOD. I tried it with 4 different boards and got the same results each time. CoreTemp and BIOS/UEFI settings for me....


----------



## Wabbit16

Have you guys ever had a problem where Corsair Link loses the 'devices' so to speak? Sometimes when I boot my PC and open the program, certain readouts are blank and the correct readouts are along the left hand side of the program. I have attached an example below:



It seems to have lost my HDD temperatures and put them in a different group again. Very frustrating.


----------



## barebackbadger

sorry guys
can anyone recommend a good 120mm fan, silent (is a must) but with good enough airflow for the H55?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*
> 
> Have you guys ever had a problem where Corsair Link loses the 'devices' so to speak? Sometimes when I boot my PC and open the program, certain readouts are blank and the correct readouts are along the left hand side of the program. I have attached an example below:
> 
> 
> 
> It seems to have lost my HDD temperatures and put them in a different group again. Very frustrating.


That happens with mine all the time, I finally just gave up on trying to make it look right....I guess as long as the correct temps are in there somewhere, I'm ok....


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Personally, every time I tried to use Speedfan, it locked up my PC and caused a BSOD. I tried it with 4 different boards and got the same results each time. CoreTemp and BIOS/UEFI settings for me....


That's odd. I always use it, even at work for our shop PCs and on customer units (even laptops). I've had it report wrong temps on some AMD cpus, but it's always worked on Intel cpus for me.


----------



## blaze2210

It sounds like a decent program, but not good enough to risk crashing my computer over. My motherboard does a good job at controlling my fans, and CoreTemp handles the temperature reporting. I'm not sure what sort of issue SpeedFan has with my computers, but I decided to end the "rivalry" between me and it by not using it.


----------



## uglykidmoe

at $90 (fry's) it can't be beat

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/rowk/media/computer/000_3354_zpse0d464e8.jpg.html

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/rowk/media/computer/000_3353_zpsdce0dfe8.jpg.html


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uglykidmoe*
> 
> at $90 (fry's) it can't be beat
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/rowk/media/computer/000_3354_zpse0d464e8.jpg.html
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/rowk/media/computer/000_3353_zpsdce0dfe8.jpg.html


Nice!! That's a pretty good deal!!


----------



## Tater00nuts

http://www.corsair.com/us/outlet-store/outlet-cooling.html

Refurb sale at the Corsair outlet store, 50% off.


----------



## pacho

I'm trying to find a replacement backplate for the H110. I'm having problems with the one supplied, since it is made of plastic the little nuts inside it keep slipping when I'm tightening the pump bracket screws. The plastic molded holes where the nuts go are pretty much shot to hell. Last time I had to use small pliers to hold each nut while I tightened the pump, it was a real pain. I could request an RMA from Corsair but I'm pretty sure the same thing will happen to the new backplate after a few mounts. This is really a bad design from Asetek.

Anyone tried mounting the H110 using the backplate of a H100/i? It seems like it could work, but only if the threads from the backplate are the same size as the H110 mounting screws.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pacho*
> 
> I'm trying to find a replacement backplate for the H110. I'm having problems with the one supplied, since it is made of plastic the little nuts inside it keep slipping when I'm tightening the pump bracket screws. The plastic molded holes where the nuts go are pretty much shot to hell. Last time I had to use small pliers to hold each nut while I tightened the pump, it was a real pain. I could request an RMA from Corsair but I'm pretty sure the same thing will happen to the new backplate after a few mounts. This is really a bad design from Asetek.
> 
> Anyone tried mounting the H110 using the backplate of a H100/i? It seems like it could work, but only if the threads from the backplate are the same size as the H110 mounting screws.


Corsair sells replacement parts on their site, you could get the backplate for the H100i and try it out. Though it sounds like you're over-tightening the cooler, as the same thing will happen with the H100i backplate if you're really trying to torque the cooler down - it only needs to be hand-tight.









http://www.corsair.com/us/parts/cooling-parts/hydro-series-h80i-h100i-intel-lga-1155-1156-1366-2011-mounting-bracket-kit.html


----------



## ViTosS

Anyone here with i7 2600k and H100i or H110 can share your results with me? Like Prime 95 full temp after 30 minutes and frequency/vcore of the CPU?


----------



## Dr Slaughter

Guys, Just a straight question, can i Overclock my 4770k using my Corsair H60 3nd Gen... My Motherboard is ASUS Maximus VI Impact.... Yes or No... Coz i OCed it, it seems like i got 40c-45c Idle temps...and sometimes i got 38c-43c.. Is that normal? Im Clocked at 4.7Ghz all Cores...


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Slaughter*
> 
> Guys, Just a straight question, can i Overclock my 4770k using my Corsair H60 3nd Gen... My Motherboard is ASUS Maximus VI Impact.... Yes or No... Coz i OCed it, it seems like i got 40c-45c Idle temps...and sometimes i got 38c-43c.. Is that normal? Im Clocked at 4.7Ghz all Cores...


You need to take the temperature of your room into consideration - ambient temps are what influence the temp in the inside of your case.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Slaughter*
> 
> Guys, Just a straight question, can i Overclock my 4770k using my Corsair H60 3nd Gen... My Motherboard is ASUS Maximus VI Impact.... Yes or No... Coz i OCed it, it seems like i got 40c-45c Idle temps...and sometimes i got 38c-43c.. Is that normal? Im Clocked at 4.7Ghz all Cores...


Uh, why wouldn't you? You have an H60 water cooler so, yes, of course you can overclock it.
I mean, obviously, if you already overclocked it then you've answered your own question, right?

What's a 3nd gen?


----------



## Dr Slaughter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Uh, why wouldn't you? You have an H60 water cooler so, yes, of course you can overclock it.
> I mean, obviously, if you already overclocked it then you've answered your own question, right?
> 
> What's a 3nd gen?


Sorry i mean 2nd gen... thanx for the reply guys... im just kinda apprehensive on what i just saw in my temp right now..it seems like, i can't believe it







... yeah its pretty much cold in here... my room temps 21c-23c...


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Slaughter*
> 
> Sorry i mean 2nd gen... thanx for the reply guys... im just kinda apprehensive on what i just saw in my temp right now..it seems like, i can't believe it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... yeah its pretty much cold in here... my room temps 21c-23c...


You're worried about those temps? Have you looked at what the "dangerous" temps for Haswell are?


----------



## Dr Slaughter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> You're worried about those temps? Have you looked at what the "dangerous" temps for Haswell are?


Yup i heard some rumors but haven't seen them yet...


----------



## tsunamipop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViTosS*
> 
> Anyone here with i7 2600k and H100i or H110 can share your results with me? Like Prime 95 full temp after 30 minutes and frequency/vcore of the CPU?


1.336 v core 4.5 ghz








temps 48, 55, 53, 48


----------



## CannedBullets

Yeah, I migrated my parts to a Corsair C70, put new case fans, and installed an H100i w/NF-F12s and my temps are still really good. Which is weird because I haven't cleaned out my PC at all since I put all the parts in. I think if my ambients didn't cool down from August then my temps might have risen a couple degrees. I should probably dust out my PC soon.

EDIT: In hindsight, I probably should have gotten an FX-8320 instead of an FX-6300. Maybe I'll get a Steamroller 8-core when those come around. Also, is the coolant used in the H100i non-conductive?


----------



## K1mer0

Hello, guys do you know were can i buy this in Europe ( and ship to any country - Portugal, because corsair does not)

http://www.corsair.com/us/cpu-cooling-kits/cpu-cooling-accessories/hydro-series-h80i-h100i-sp120l-2700-rpm-replacement-fan.html

i cant seeme to find in my country, and i broke one of my h100i ...









thanks in advance,


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K1mer0*
> 
> Hello, guys do you know were can i buy this in Europe ( and ship to any country - Portugal, because corsair does not)
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/us/cpu-cooling-kits/cpu-cooling-accessories/hydro-series-h80i-h100i-sp120l-2700-rpm-replacement-fan.html
> 
> i cant seeme to find in my country, and i broke one of my h100i ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks in advance,


Can you get Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 or Noctua NF-F12 or Yate Loon fans in your country?

My idea is if it's difficult to get the Corsair replacement fans, why not change it to different fans you can easily get there.


----------



## K1mer0

yes, the scythe..but i would like the corsair, im worried if in the future i need to send the h100i to warranty, and they be a bad ass because of the fan...its just a litlle broken near one of the screws...

thanks,


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K1mer0*
> 
> yes, the scythe..but i would like the corsair, im worried if in the future i need to send the h100i to warranty, and they be a bad ass because of the fan...its just a litlle broken near one of the screws...
> 
> thanks,


I don't think using different fans will void your warranty. Also most of the RMA cases I read, they only send the unit without the fans or accessories.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I don't think using different fans will void your warranty. Also most of the RMA cases I read, they only send the unit without the fans or accessories.


Using different fans will not void your warranty, but the stock ones move quite a bit of air through that radiator. So in a performance sense, it would be good to get another set....


----------



## Wabbit16

Hmmm, I know the Corsair H80i pump unit is supposed to allow full access to the RAM slots, but the way I see it I don't think I'll be able to fit RAM modules in the 'A1' slot of my ASUS P8P67-M Pro motherboard. The elbow joint of the pipes seem to protrude too much over the slot so anything with a heatsink might have some trouble unless I turn the pump 90 degrees









Has anyone else had this issue?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*
> 
> Hmmm, I know the Corsair H80i pump unit is supposed to allow full access to the RAM slots, but the way I see it I don't think I'll be able to fit RAM modules in the 'A1' slot of my ASUS P8P67-M Pro motherboard. The elbow joint of the pipes seem to protrude too much over the slot so anything with a heatsink might have some trouble unless I turn the pump 90 degrees
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone else had this issue?


Is there any reason why you can't turn the pump? That sounds like a pretty easy fix....


----------



## K1mer0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Using different fans will not void your warranty, but the stock ones move quite a bit of air through that radiator. So in a performance sense, it would be good to get another set....


but mine still works fine, its just near on screw broke the plastic, and i dont like to see something broke ( stupid of me)...i will try to find one, even if i need to buy from the site and send to the adress of a friend of mine that lives in UK...


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K1mer0*
> 
> but mine still works fine, its just near on screw broke the plastic, and i dont like to see something broke ( stupid of me)...i will try to find one, even if i need to buy from the site and send to the adress of a friend of mine that lives in UK...


It sounds like you just over-tightened the screw, I did that to one of my Shark fans....You could get this compound called "Plastic Welder", which will fuse the two pieces back together as if it never even broke....


----------



## K1mer0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> It sounds like you just over-tightened the screw, I did that to one of my Shark fans....You could get this compound called "Plastic Welder", which will fuse the two pieces back together as if it never even broke....


yes thats it...but im afraid that plastic welder would be more dificult to find that the original fan...lolllol

thanks


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K1mer0*
> 
> yes thats it...but im afraid that plastic welder would be more dificult to find that the original fan...lolllol
> 
> thanks


I'm not sure what is available in your area, but I got mine from an auto parts store.


----------



## Wabbit16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Is there any reason why you can't turn the pump? That sounds like a pretty easy fix....


I like the corsair logo right side up...otherwise I'll constantly think of the Black Pearl that Jack Sparrow capsized


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*
> 
> I like the corsair logo right side up...otherwise I'll constantly think of the Black Pearl that Jack Sparrow capsized


Makes sense







, I prefer to have mine the same way. Then there might not be an easy fix....


----------



## Tater00nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K1mer0*
> 
> yes thats it...but im afraid that plastic welder would be more dificult to find that the original fan...lolllol
> 
> thanks


2 part epoxy might work too. Hardware stores and auto parts stores should have it.That stuff works on almost anything.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tater00nuts*
> 
> 2 part epoxy might work too. Hardware stores and auto parts stores should have it.That stuff works on almost anything.


That is exactly what Plastic Welder is....


----------



## IRO-Bot

Bought a H100i Refurb at Frys a few weeks ago for $69. Everything seems to be working just fine. 4670k was idling around 27c stock. Bumped it up to 4ghz and now idles around 32c. Modded the front of my Cubitek Mini Cube to install it.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IRO-Bot*
> 
> Bought a H100i Refurb at Frys a few weeks ago for $69. Everything seems to be working just fine. 4670k was idling around 27c stock. Bumped it up to 4ghz and now idles around 32c. Modded the front of my Cubitek Mini Cube to install it.


Nice!! Looks good, and that's a good deal for the unit!!


----------



## K1mer0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I'm not sure what is available in your area, but I got mine from an auto parts store.


well i discover that if i buy online in corsair site, they ship to my country...fan+shipping a litle expensive...

i also like you said can use other fans, i like the noiseblocker -eloop series...do you know if they compatible with corsair link? so i can control the speed? they need to be 4pins right?

thanks again..


----------



## joelk2

i had a Coolermaster Hyper 212 for a little while but won a case and it doesnt fit in the new case.

just about to place an order for a refurbed H100


----------



## Strileckifunk

Managed to rig a H110 to fit in my Phantom 410. Easy as cake.

Is that a saying or did I make it up?


----------



## teaseal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strileckifunk*
> 
> Easy as cake.
> 
> Is that a saying or did I make it up?


I think you combined "easy as pie" and "piece of cake."


----------



## Menphisto

One thread on my h80i is broken ,







what should i do ?


----------



## Wabbit16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Menphisto*
> 
> One thread on my h80i is broken ,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what should i do ?


The thread on the motherboard standoffs I assume?


----------



## Menphisto

The Thread on the back of the Radiator..


----------



## Wabbit16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Menphisto*
> 
> The Thread on the back of the Radiator..


Yelp...not much you can do I reckon. You _could_ try and tap it with a bigger thread but IMHO you are taking a risk as you are working near the water channels and very fragile fins. If I were you I'd just leave it and use the other three mounts and hope for the best


----------



## Menphisto

yep, thanks its Holding, i used locktide for the one screw Looks very good @ the Moment







but i am really dissapointed of the Quality of the h80i its just the second Mount and i really care about how Tide i srew it


----------



## Wabbit16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Menphisto*
> 
> yep, thanks its Holding, i used locktide for the one screw Looks very good @ the Moment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but i am really dissapointed of the Quality of the h80i its just the second Mount and i really care about how Tide i srew it


Awesome! Yeah I can imagine that you aren't pleased, not after so little fitting as you said. Did you also get only 4 washers in the box as opposed to 8 like you were supposed to? Locktite for the win, we get a similar one here in SA called Red Devil - works like a charm! I ride a KLR650 which vibrates like crazy so I tend to carry it around with me quite often


----------



## Menphisto

Locktite ftw ,exactly !!! Should work....now my sp 120 are installed and i dont have to remove the Radiator anymore (i hope) xD (if i want to remove it i have a prob xD)


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Menphisto*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Locktite ftw ,exactly !!! Should work....now my sp 120 are installed and i dont have to remove the Radiator anymore (i hope) xD (if i want to remove it i have a prob xD)


Locktite is still removable, so you should be fine....


----------



## K1mer0

Guys, is there any problem connecting the h100i+two 3,5 diks +1 ssd in the same sata cable? ( power supply ax860)?

thanks


----------



## Sprkd1

I have a 3930K and H100 with two Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans as intake. The fans are connected directly to the motherboard running at full-speed 24/7. My H100's radiator is clean.

My 3930K turbos to 3.8 GHz under full load when all cores are being utilized and my VCore is set manually at 1.190v.

During Prime95 (Small FFTs), after 5 mins the temps range from 65 C on the coolest core and 69 C on the hottest core. During Prime95, the VCore automatically drops from the manually set 1.190v to 1.116v.

Aren't my temps high? During Prime95 the voltage drops automatically to 1.116v while the CPU runs at 3.8 GHz. 69 C with 1.116v during the test seems very high. During Battlefield 3 multiplayer, the hottest core is around 55 C.

When my H100 was new (well basically when my whole computer was new as I built it in January 2012), Prime95 use to top out at the high 50s and I also had everything set in the BIOS on auto. The reason why I set my VCore manually now is because with the latest/newest BIOS for my motherboard, the stock VCore is set WAY too high (1.3xx).

Wondering if I should RMA my H100.


----------



## partyukyou

Some very sexy rigs there, I'll try and get my pics up tomorrow.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sprkd1*
> 
> I have a 3930K and H100 with two Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans as intake. The fans are connected directly to the motherboard running at full-speed 24/7. My H100's radiator is clean.
> 
> My 3930K turbos to 3.8 GHz under full load when all cores are being utilized and my VCore is set manually at 1.190v.
> 
> During Prime95 (Small FFTs), after 5 mins the temps range from 65 C on the coolest core and 69 C on the hottest core. During Prime95, the VCore automatically drops from the manually set 1.190v to 1.116v.
> 
> Aren't my temps high? During Prime95 the voltage drops automatically to 1.116v while the CPU runs at 3.8 GHz. 69 C with 1.116v during the test seems very high. During Battlefield 3 multiplayer, the hottest core is around 55 C.
> 
> When my H100 was new (well basically when my whole computer was new as I built it in January 2012), Prime95 use to top out at the high 50s and I also had everything set in the BIOS on auto. The reason why I set my VCore manually now is because with the latest/newest BIOS for my motherboard, the stock VCore is set WAY too high (1.3xx).
> 
> Wondering if I should RMA my H100.


While those temps aren't unmanageable they are certainly high for that OC/volts and your previous experience. Seems like the trouble started with your bios update, try flashing back to your previous bios and settings then retest and/or try all stock settings 1st and after the re-flash.

Next I would try a remount of the H100 block.
When the H100 fans are spinning and the radiator is clean, like you stated, and if the pump is spinning up (bios appx 2200rpm) and it's not making any grinding noises you shouldn't suddenly see a 10c+ increase in temps, unless your mount somehow got tweaked?

Try those before RMA'ing


----------



## Sprkd1

Thanks. If I recall correctly, the increased temps came after the BIOS update. I cannot flash any BIOS older than this one and in fact GIGABYTE has removed all older BIOSes prior to this one.

Have a look at the following screenshot. This is with Prime95 (Small FFT) running for about 5 minutes.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sprkd1*
> 
> Thanks. If I recall correctly, the increased temps came after the BIOS update. I cannot flash any BIOS older than this one and in fact GIGABYTE has removed all older BIOSes prior to this one.
> 
> Have a look at the following screenshot. This is with Prime95 (Small FFT) running for about 5 minutes.


Well I had a read of your thread over in the Intel CPU "3930K running hot" and that answer's the question of remounting ... most of the info was right on, but some one should've emphasized to keep even pressure on the block while you tighten the mounting screws. I can also tell by your screenshot that high ambients aren't the issue either (appx 24c?). I like screenie's









Did you try all stock settings in the bios? When you had the lower temps earlier where they with "Hyper-Threading" disabled (6 cores not 12 cores) ... when you flashed your bios it might have reset that and you didn't notice? 12 cores @150+ watts = HEAT







...
Finally maybe make a post in "Intel Motherboards" and see if someone can't help you out with an earlier bios and/or compare your version with other 3930K owners bios' and their temps... OR contact Gigabyte and see if they can't help? I haven't had a Gigabyte board in years But I know ASRock/Asus are very helpful with even custom bios' .... I just don't think the H100 when mounted properly is the problem, giving all your other details ...


----------



## Sprkd1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Well I had a read of your thread over in the Intel CPU "3930K running hot" and that answer's the question of remounting ... most of the info was right on, but some one should've emphasized to keep even pressure on the block while you tighten the mounting screws. I can also tell by your screenshot that high ambients aren't the issue either (appx 24c?). I like screenie's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you try all stock settings in the bios? When you had the lower temps earlier where they with "Hyper-Threading" disabled (6 cores not 12 cores) ... when you flashed your bios it might have reset that and you didn't notice? 12 cores @150+ watts = HEAT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> Finally maybe make a post in "Intel Motherboards" and see if someone can't help you out with an earlier bios and/or compare your version with other 3930K owners bios' and their temps... OR contact Gigabyte and see if they can't help? I haven't had a Gigabyte board in years But I know ASRock/Asus are very helpful with even custom bios' .... I just don't think the H100 when mounted properly is the problem, giving all your other details ...


I've requested for an RMA on the H100. Let's see how this turns out I guess.


----------



## Strileckifunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sprkd1*
> 
> I've requested for an RMA on the H100. Let's see how this turns out I guess.


Be sure to stay ontop of that RMA. I sent my H80i in and never heard a peep from them for almost a month and a half. I finally contacted them and found out they were out of stock on the H80i. I hated to ask for something else, but questioned them about bumping me up to something else for the troubles, only to find out the h100i was also out of stock. They had no idea when they would be getting replacements in. The only thing they offered was an h110. I figured they would mention an H100 first, so make sure you contact them to see if they have it!


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strileckifunk*
> 
> Be sure to stay ontop of that RMA. I sent my H80i in and never heard a peep from them for almost a month and a half. I finally contacted them and found out they were out of stock on the H80i. I hated to ask for something else, but questioned them about bumping me up to something else for the troubles, only to find out the h100i was also out of stock. They had no idea when they would be getting replacements in. The only thing they offered was an h110. I figured they would mention an H100 first, so make sure you contact them to see if they have it!


Wow, I would've gone for the H110, that sounds like a good trade for an H80....


----------



## _TRU_

i haz an h60i & a bunch of other corsair stufz


----------



## Mergatroid

^ You should post that in the 600T club. Nice job, looks pretty sweet.


----------



## _TRU_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> ^ You should post that in the 600T club. Nice job, looks pretty sweet.


thx


----------



## NorKris

Have anyone tried to connect the Corsair Link Cooling Node into H100i/80i ?
wonder if that works so i dont need that big commanderbox


----------



## Phil1984

I got a i5 2500k cooled by a H80i (1700rpm) in an Antec Fusion Remote case. Works flawlessly in my tiny HTPC/gaming/working-machine-setup. Was even able to do a little overclock at 3.8Ghz. Take a look:


----------



## Destrto

I see Kinks...


----------



## Phil1984

Just opened the case in order to double-check. No kinks, at least not too bad, waterflow is not compromised. Thanks for paying attention to detail though.


----------



## Destrto

No problem. I'd still keep an eye on it down the line.


----------



## pc-illiterate

really, slaughter? if i want that i will just read my email spam folder.
dont junk up the thread.


----------



## Sprkd1

I am about to RMA my H100 soon for high temps but noticed that the tubing is greasy/oily. I can't seem to find a leak or anything anywhere but anyone know why the tubing is greasy/oily?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sprkd1*
> 
> I am about to RMA my H100 soon for high temps but noticed that the tubing is greasy/oily. I can't seem to find a leak or anything anywhere but anyone know why the tubing is greasy/oily?


That's pretty strange.....It could be fluid that's seeping out from the connectors. Would you be able to take a pic of the inside of your tower and point out where that residue is?


----------



## Sprkd1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> That's pretty strange.....It could be fluid that's seeping out from the connectors. Would you be able to take a pic of the inside of your tower and point out where that residue is?


Here are two pics. Hope you can see the shininess of the tubes.


----------



## blaze2210

It does look like there's a residue of sorts on the tubes, though it doesn't seem like it would necessarily be enough to be concerned about. I'd definitely recommend keeping an eye on it to make sure that is doesn't get worse....


----------



## MiiX

Good thing the H50 likes 70C+ CPU temps!


I managed to forget to turn up the fan on my H50 before leaving it for a while... Damn that temperature, I don't think my 1090T likes it that much!


----------



## smoke420

Does anyone know if the resistor that come with the corsair fans can handle 2 fans on a splitter


----------



## Dragoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke420*
> 
> Does anyone know if the resistor that come with the corsair fans can handle 2 fans on a splitter


It depends on a couple of things... The voltage that you'll be feeding the fans with and the fans themselves. Since power consumption will depend on the amp requirement of the fans. I haven't looked at the resistors myself since I never removed the heatshrink from it... but they seem to be wire wound resistors (2.5W AFAIK), a single SP120 is 3W @ 12v... so they should handle a couple identical fans without problem, but don't quote me on this.

I have a couple SP120s plugged onto the H100i, and since the block fails to properly control the aftermarket SP120s I placed the included resistors in each one to slow them down a bit. And for reference, the resistors are not even remotely warm to the touch.


----------



## smoke420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragoon*
> 
> It depends on a couple of things... The voltage that you'll be feeding the fans with and the fans themselves. Since power consumption will depend on the amp requirement of the fans. I haven't looked at the resistors myself since I never removed the heatshrink from it... but they seem to be wire wound resistors (2.5W AFAIK), a single SP120 is 3W @ 12v... so they should handle a couple identical fans without problem, but don't quote me on this.
> 
> I have a couple SP120s plugged onto the H100i, and since the block fails to properly control the aftermarket SP120s I placed the included resistors in each one to slow them down a bit. And for reference, the resistors are not even remotely warm to the touch.


I have the same problem i bought a bunch of corsair fans from a friend and found out they don't work on pwm control even though they are 4 pin fans. The af 120s I got from him had the resistors but the sp did not. I also got the some of the gray sp that do work on pwm.


----------



## bevo

I would just like to say that corsair support was great. I had an h70 bust awhile back and ruin a gtx 670 4gb card. I contacted corsair and they sent me a label to shop them the card and cooler. They verified the cooler leak destroyed the card and Were going to replace the cooler and refund me for the card. They offered $350. I sent them a link to the only place I could find the card new in stock and it was $429. They said ok. After about 4 days I received the new h60 in the mail and just relieved a check for $429 today for the card. The entire process from beginning to end took about 3 weeks.

Do not fear their new $150 limit on a GPU because they went way over that for me.

Anyway I thought I should share this. I never thought for an instant they would actually replace my card at face value like they did.

Great job corsair. I'll be buying whatever of your products I can in the future.


----------



## OmarCCX

I had my H100i running at 4.2 ghz (1.200v) for a few months now, but since last week I started to notice my temps during gaming were in the high 70s-mid 80s (used to be low 60s).

Today though, I can't even get good temps at stock clocks on my 3570k.

Running the fans at high RPM didn't seem to help the temps and HWMonitor is telling me the pump is running at normal RPMs (2319 RPMs). Corsair Link isn't working for me because i'm running 8.1 and it's not entirely compatible.

I can only think of two things, I need to replace the thermal paste, or the front radiator needs a dusting.

Is it normal for the stock paste to wear out after 6 months? Or is it more probable that the problem is the dirty radiator?

This is how the radiator looks behind the fans, front mounted on a Fractal R4 with fan filters:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## pc-illiterate

dust or the fans are slowing down maybe. i doubt the fans are wearing out. clean your rad!


----------



## SkateZilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmarCCX*
> 
> I had my H100i running at 4.2 ghz (1.200v) for a few months now, but since last week I started to notice my temps during gaming were in the high 70s-mid 80s (used to be low 60s).
> 
> Today though, I can't even get good temps at stock clocks on my 3570k.
> 
> Running the fans at high RPM didn't seem to help the temps and HWMonitor is telling me the pump is running at normal RPMs (2319 RPMs). Corsair Link isn't working for me because i'm running 8.1 and it's not entirely compatible.
> 
> I can only think of two things, I need to replace the thermal paste, or the front radiator needs a dusting.
> 
> Is it normal for the stock paste to wear out after 6 months? Or is it more probable that the problem is the dirty radiator?
> 
> This is how the radiator looks behind the fans, front mounted on a Fractal R4 with fan filters:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Check waterblock mount, also make sure pump is working (un mount it, remove CPU from system, run system with no CPU just to allow power to pump/fans.)


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmarCCX*
> 
> I had my H100i running at 4.2 ghz (1.200v) for a few months now, but since last week I started to notice my temps during gaming were in the high 70s-mid 80s (used to be low 60s).
> 
> Today though, I can't even get good temps at stock clocks on my 3570k.
> 
> Running the fans at high RPM didn't seem to help the temps and HWMonitor is telling me the pump is running at normal RPMs (2319 RPMs). Corsair Link isn't working for me because i'm running 8.1 and it's not entirely compatible.
> 
> I can only think of two things, I need to replace the thermal paste, or the front radiator needs a dusting.
> 
> Is it normal for the stock paste to wear out after 6 months? Or is it more probable that the problem is the dirty radiator?
> 
> This is how the radiator looks behind the fans, front mounted on a Fractal R4 with fan filters:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Try everything you mentioned: clean the radiator, replace the thermal compound, re-seat the pump, clean the fans, etc.


----------



## phre0n

H100i.

lemme know what ya guys think


----------



## richie_2010

Sorry wrong thread


----------



## OmarCCX

This is how it looked.



And this is how it looks now.



I think that fixed it. Temps don't go over 70 on Crysis 3 and AC4, although they do ramp up quite fast on OCCT.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmarCCX*
> 
> This is how it looked.
> 
> 
> 
> And this is how it looks now.
> 
> 
> 
> I think that fixed it. Temps don't go over 70 on Crysis 3 and AC4, although they do ramp up quite fast on OCCT.


Hmmm still seems on the high side to me, but without more info hard to tell







(see sig







)

BLACK FRIDAY Deal ... H110 - $89.99 w/$20 rebate ...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181035

H100i $84.99









http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181032

EDIT: ADHDadditiv over in the case compatibility thread found even better deals from Corsair direct ...
Holy cow the H100i for $60 is cheap enough just to have one in stock for backup or test builds @ $60









http://www.corsair.com/us/outlet-store/outlet-cooling.html
Corsair H100i $60 flat
http://www.corsair.com/us/hydro-series-h100i-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler-refurbished.html

Corsair H80i $55 flat
http://www.corsair.com/us/hydro-series-h80i-high-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler-refurbished.html


----------



## OmarCCX

Yeah I need to do more testing. I had my cpu at 4.5GHz on 1.25v for 5 months and it never went over 85° during stress test, but I didn't have a GPU then. Now that I added a GPU I couldn't mantain a stable 4.5 overclock so I dropped it to 4.2 at 1.160v.

Temps are now 70 during games, but they hit 90 with apps like handbrake and OCCT.

I gotta mess around with volts, hell I'd probably just settle for 4.0 at stock volts.

I have the H100i front mounted on an R4, with two Fractal fans as exhaust, one in the rear and one on top. GPU is an Asus DC2 760.


----------



## Gunderman456

I joined this club back when! I'm back over an unexpected issue.









I reused a Corsair H50 in a new build for preliminary benching purposess before going full water. In a crisscross fashion, I tightened each screw a couple of twists at a time. Then I noticed that one screw kept turning in place. Despite this, I decided to start my overclocks and monitor temps, knowing full well that I may not have a tight seal between the CPU IHS and the water block.

This was confirmed as soon as I added voltage to the mix as CPU temps hit the +80C. At that point, I decided to verify the source of the problem. This was the second install (previously on a i5 750) for this cooler. So by no means had it experienced any sort of punishment with multiple installs. It turned out that the bolt had stripped the plastic fitting of the backplate, and as I tried to unscrew, the bolt turned along with the screw. It was a pita trying to navigate those waters.

At first, I tried to twist the backplate in the opposite direction while affixing the screw in place with a screw driver. The under pins on the mobo kept getting in the way, so I cut the backplate to allow better maneuvering. The nut stayed put since again the plastic around the bolt, being stripped, did not offer any resistance. I grabbed needle nose pliers, held the bolt in place and finally I was able to unscrew the screw free.

I am really pissed at Corsair. I contacted them to see if they will do anything, since it was the poor design of the backplate that had caused this delay. I will update this post with Corsair's response.

I still like Corsair and still plan to complete this phase of the project . In that respect, I did not hesitate to order a Corsair H60. It looks like the design is different and hopefully that revision has improved backplates.

Go to "The Hawaiian Heat Wave" build log (in sig) for more info and pics.

*Updates:*

Corsair responded to me yesterday with good news by approving an RMA! Corsair relayed "We have received and approved your Standard Replacement RMA request. Your RMA # is *******." Now I can salvage the H50!

Additionally, I was instructed to ship to them, at my own cost, the damaged backplate ($2.50). I notified them yesterday that I had shipped the item to them. Today, I was notified that the Hydro Series Retention Bracket Kit for Hydro Series H40, H50 and H70 REV 2 (part# CW-8960006 - retails for $9.99) had been shipped to me!


----------



## dioxholster

anyone use the new H60? what you guys think about it? hope its quiet since im about to get it.


----------



## Gunderman456

My H60 is in the mail. Will be featured in my new build. Will talk about general features, noise and test its overclocking capabilities over the next week or so.


----------



## mrWiggy

random question for us people who live in sub zero habitats and travel for lan parties.

does the coolant in these coolers freeze?


----------



## kizwan

The coolant contain Ethylene glycol. Pure ethylene glycol freezes at about −12C but in these coolers, it already mixed with water. From the information I found from wiki, depending on the mixture, it may freezes at, e.g. −45C (60% ethylene glycol and 40% water).

[EDIT]
I found out *[H80 use Propylene glycol]*. With a mixture of 60% Propylene glycol and 40% water, it freezes at -60C.

*[H50 use Ethylene glycol]*.

Source:-
*[Ethylene glycol]*
*[Propylene glycol]*


----------



## Floy

Got the H110 here. Here is a picture of my temperatures at stock clocks/voltage and at room temperature when idle, which right now is about 17-18 degrees.

I haven't had a chance to overclock yet, but I will take a picture of my load temperatures when overclocked.


----------



## OmarCCX

Mmm chilly. My CPU never idles below 40.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmarCCX*
> 
> Mmm chilly. My CPU never idles below 40.


move. north.


----------



## OmarCCX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> move. north.


There is no land north of PR


----------



## polzii




----------



## Strajder

Hi guys, I recently bought fx 8350 and was able to overclock it to 4.5ghz, voltage is set to 1.375 in bios and 1.392 under load with hyper 212 evo in push-pull setup. I am interested in buying corsair h80i for some more overclock so I would like to know how much I can overclock my cpu with this water cooling set?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strajder*
> 
> Hi guys, I recently bought fx 8350 and was able to overclock it to 4.5ghz, voltage is set to 1.375 in bios and 1.392 under load with hyper 212 evo in push-pull setup. I am interested in buying corsair h80i for some more overclock so I would like to know how much I can overclock my cpu with this water cooling set?


That would depend on what your temps end up being once you get the H80i....Unfortunately, it isn't an equation like: fx-8350 + H80i = 5.0ghz.


----------



## Strajder

Some people on other forums said that they were able to reach 4.8 even 4.9 stable with h80i, is it possible to really reach those clocks with h80i?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strajder*
> 
> Some people on other forums said that they were able to reach 4.8 even 4.9 stable with h80i, is it possible to really reach those clocks with h80i?


I've seen people say that they reached those speeds on a Hyper 212 EVO, it all depends on how that cooler actually works with your particular setup, and what you're temps end up being....As I said, there's no formula for these things, you'll have to just check it out for yourself....


----------



## Destrto

Each CPU will perform differently. Some will get close to others, and some will not even with the exact same setup.It's been long debated, just look earlier in the thread.

It's just a matter of trying for yourself and seeing what you're able to achieve.

My own contribution, I was able to get 4.5Ghz from my FX-8120 at 1.36V. With an H100. So, my personal opinion would be, yea it "should" be able to get close to the same as an 8120.


----------



## mrWiggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> The coolant contain Ethylene glycol. Pure ethylene glycol freezes at about −12C but in these coolers, it already mixed with water. From the information I found from wiki, depending on the mixture, it may freezes at, e.g. −45C (60% ethylene glycol and 40% water).
> 
> [EDIT]
> I found out *[H80 use Propylene glycol]*. With a mixture of 60% Propylene glycol and 40% water, it freezes at -60C.
> 
> *[H50 use Ethylene glycol]*.
> 
> Source:-
> *[Ethylene glycol]*
> *[Propylene glycol]*


thanks for posting that


----------



## domgilberto

I'm sure this has been asked 100x before...

Is it a no brainer to pick up 2x Corsair SP 120's for the H80i? I've heard that the stock fans that come with the H80i are ridiculously loud?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *domgilberto*
> 
> I'm sure this has been asked 100x before...
> 
> Is it a no brainer to pick up 2x Corsair SP 120's for the H80i? I've heard that the stock fans that come with the H80i are ridiculously loud?


SP120L's are what the H80i come with in the box.


----------



## MillerLite1314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> SP120L's are what the H80i come with in the box.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *domgilberto*
> 
> I'm sure this has been asked 100x before...
> 
> Is it a no brainer to pick up 2x Corsair SP 120's for the H80i? I've heard that the stock fans that come with the H80i are ridiculously loud?


^ this. I'm rocking an H80i as well. The L's are the same fan but grey blades and no sweet color ring.


----------



## domgilberto

Are they the same as these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007RESFR2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE ?

If not, is it worth picking up a pair of these to put on them for the sake of reducing noise? I hear under full fan speed the stock H80i fans are stupidly loud?

Also - side question:

How long do these H80i's last for, in terms of the coolant? What happens if the coolant is toast? Could I fix that myself with refilling the rad?


----------



## Xcelsior

Just got my H100i and put it in the case. I have a couple of questions, however.

The stock fans seem fine...SP120L from what I've heard. I haven't setup push/pull yet but I am wondering if there are comparable fans that have blue LEDs so I can put them on the inside of my case to help with lighting...any ideas? I'd like to get away with just buying two, but if I need to buy 4 new fans so the airflow is the same, that'll do.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strajder*
> 
> Some people on other forums said that they were able to reach 4.8 even 4.9 stable with h80i, is it possible to really reach those clocks with h80i?


I've hit 5 GHz on my 3770k without going over 60c, using an H80i. A lot depends on the chip and especially stepping - in my case I lucked out and got a C, so it OC's fairly easily and runs cool.


----------



## Belial

Hey guys, I got a question for you. I plan to change the tubing to my H60 2013 and H110 (coolit eco ii and asetek rebrands respectively). I'm well aware of the risks and futility of the mod, it's entirely an aesthetic mod and there are many other reasons why custom is not the answer (you can look at the dedicated thread I made if you want to badger me why not to do it -_- )

What size tubing is used? ID and OD? It appears the H110 uses _7/16 OD_ tubing, as 3/8 ID tubing wouldnt wrap over it as too small, and 4/8 aka 1/2 was too big, but 7/16 was just right. I'm pretty sure that these CLCs use some super-thick triple layer rubber neoprene/mesh/neoprene, so it has an unconventional OD, but I'm not entirely sure if the ID is exactly 1/4, or if it's an unconventional size like 5/16 or 3/16.

Can you get the hose clamps off without breaking them? I really like the look of them, I actually would like to use them (or similar clamps) instead of using some other style of clamps. How do you do it? Cut the hose, then dig at it from the inside or something? And... just not break the barbs or something?
Thanks! I know a few people here have done it, please no lectures on 'omg just get an h220', i'm well aware of the risks and uselessness. Again, it's an aesthetic mod done for fun, not for performance


----------



## Destrto

The guide I remember seeing said to use a hairdryer or heatgun on low to sortof melt the glue holding the tubes in place. to make the plastic shroud malleable so that you could fit a small tool in between it and the tubing to help pry it off. That's just what I remember. Can't find to guide that was posted anymore.

The tubing I found to fit my H100 (I know, different stock tubing than the H110) was 1/4" ID with a 3/16" wall.


----------



## Zed03

Does anyone else find the stock fans that come with h100i (31-002319) idle like tractors?

At first I thought it was the pump, then I disconnected them and SILENCE. It's unbelievable how bad the stock fans are. If I hold the fan in my hand and flick the blades to spin them, I can feel the vibration and 'grrr' start.

I upgraded my h100i firmware to 1.07 and there is no change. I swapped them out for some 3-pin antec fans I had around.

Anyone want 2 free junk fans?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zed03*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone else find the stock fans that come with h100i (31-002319) idle like tractors?
> 
> At first I thought it was the pump, then I disconnected them and SILENCE. It's unbelievable how bad the stock fans are. If I hold the fan in my hand and flick the blades to spin them, I can feel the vibration and 'grrr' start.
> 
> I upgraded my h100i firmware to 1.07 and there is no change. I swapped them out for some 3-pin antec fans I had around.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone want 2 free junk fans?


Sure, i'll take them..


----------



## OmarCCX

They are quite awful. I thought about mounting them on the top of my R4, but I just couldn't withstand the noise.


----------



## RandUm

Add me to this list.

Coolermaster Centurion 5 Case
Gigabyte GA-EP45-UD3P
Intel Core 2 Quad Q8400 OC'd to a rock solid 3.2Ghz
Corsair H70 with 2 Xigmatech Blue 120mm fans in push/pull
Kingston Hyper X DDR2 800 @ 8Ghz (4x2)
EVGA GeForce GTX 650 @ 2Ghz
6 HDD's Ranging in size from 320GB to 2TB
Temps never break 55c...even when under heavy load.
Idle is between 28c and 34c.


----------



## kskwerl

So right now I have a Megahalems on my 4770 and I ordered the H80i as sort of an upgrade and space saver. What do you guys think about using the H80i vs Megahalems? My 4770 is delidded with CLP on the die and MX-4 on the IHS. Would really appreciate it if multiple people could chime in as I don't know whether to return the H80i or not. Thanks


----------



## Destrto

I think as far as overall performance, you'd be happier with the H80i. It wouldn't need to run as hard to cool the same amount as the megahalems. Just my opinion, as i went from similar air cooler to the H100 and was much happier doing so. As far as cooling potential? They might be on par.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kskwerl*
> 
> So right now I have a Megahalems on my 4770 and I ordered the H80i as sort of an upgrade and space saver. What do you guys think about using the H80i vs Megahalems? My 4770 is delidded with CLP on the die and MX-4 on the IHS. Would really appreciate it if multiple people could chime in as I don't know whether to return the H80i or not. Thanks


Based on this *[review with i5-3570k @4.5GHz]*, I think the performance going to be close. The graph below show Megahalems outperform H80i (balanced setting) only by a couple degrees if Megahalems operate at max. I don't see anything wrong upgrading to H80i though. BTW, H80i come with TIM pre-applied. Just use the pre-applied TIM because it's very good.


----------



## OmarCCX

I tried just about everything to improve temps, but I think my H100i is faulty. I cleaned the fans, cleaned the rad, replaced the TIM. It doesn't matter if I set my fans at max RPMs, at stock clocks / volts on a 3570k temperatures hit 90º on OCCT and 80º during AC4. Temps at stock used to hover around 50º.

Hell, I'm even contemplating putting the intel cooler until I get a new one, or just running my CPU at 3.0GHz.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmarCCX*
> 
> I tried just about everything to improve temps, but I think my H100i is faulty. I cleaned the fans, cleaned the rad, replaced the TIM. It doesn't matter if I set my fans at max RPMs, at stock clocks / volts on a 3570k temperatures hit 90º on OCCT and 80º during AC4. Temps at stock used to hover around 50º.
> 
> Hell, I'm even contemplating putting the intel cooler until I get a new one, or just running my CPU at 3.0GHz.


90 on OCCT seems normal - it is a synthetic stress test, like running Prime95 or LinX....Do you have the fans on the H100i set up as intake or exhaust? What TIM are you using?


----------



## pc-illiterate

what do the rpm read on the pump itself?


----------



## OmarCCX

Pump reads 2300ish.
Both fans are intake, the H100i is front mounted on a Define R4. I used a Hyper 212 paste, it had the original H100i paste for 6 months before that.

I'm on stock volts, when I first built it I did OCCT and temps never went above 60 for stock volts. Right now with only a browser tab open the CPU is sitting at 70º and this is with it underclocked to 1600mhz because it's essentially idling. I'm removing it and putting the intel cooler in the mean time.


----------



## OmarCCX

Put the Intel cooler and now temps are massively better. It's loud as hell though.


----------



## kskwerl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I think as far as overall performance, you'd be happier with the H80i. It wouldn't need to run as hard to cool the same amount as the megahalems. Just my opinion, as i went from similar air cooler to the H100 and was much happier doing so. As far as cooling potential? They might be on par.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Based on this *[review with i5-3570k @4.5GHz]*, I think the performance going to be close. The graph below show Megahalems outperform H80i (balanced setting) only by a couple degrees if Megahalems operate at max. I don't see anything wrong upgrading to H80i though. BTW, H80i come with TIM pre-applied. Just use the pre-applied TIM because it's very good.


Thanks guys, I think I'll give it a go then cheers!


----------



## kskwerl

Can I put these on the H80i?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_49_1043&products_id=28613


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kskwerl*
> 
> Can I put these on the H80i?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_49_1043&products_id=28613


Yep! Sure can. Check out the Yate Loons as well. I replaced all of mine with the High Speed versions from there, was very happy with them.


----------



## kskwerl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Yep! Sure can. Check out the Yate Loons as well. I replaced all of mine with the High Speed versions from there, was very happy with them.


I hate have yate loons too









these guys
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_49_1051&products_id=22034


----------



## kskwerl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Yep! Sure can. Check out the Yate Loons as well. I replaced all of mine with the High Speed versions from there, was very happy with them.


how do you have them connect, are the 3 pins connected to the mobo or a fan controller?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kskwerl*
> 
> how do you have them connect, are the 3 pins connected to the mobo or a fan controller?


I have them connected to the 500R's stock fan controller. I removed the connectors from the stock fans and swapped them with the 3 pin connectors the Yate's came with. So that I can control them with the 500R's built in fan controller on the front panel.


----------



## Step83

Im after a bit of advice on fans, ive a pair of Sycthe GT1850s on it at the moment and they are annoying me with the noise (Onboard fan controller) Can anyone recommend any good quiet fans at all?


----------



## kskwerl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I have them connected to the 500R's stock fan controller. I removed the connectors from the stock fans and swapped them with the 3 pin connectors the Yate's came with. So that I can control them with the 500R's built in fan controller on the front panel.


so if I just put them on the mobo wat should I use to controlled the rpms?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kskwerl*
> 
> so if I just put them on the mobo wat should I use to controlled the rpms?


You could use the program "SpeedFan" to control them....Or get an "external" fan controller module to control your fans....


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kskwerl*
> 
> so if I just put them on the mobo wat should I use to controlled the rpms?


Most motherboards nowadays have a way to control your fans through bios. But like blaze said, either a program like speedfan, some software bundled with your motherboards driver CD like ASUS has with its AI Suite, or a physical fan controller.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> You could use the program "SpeedFan" to control them....Or get an "external" fan controller module to control your fans....


----------



## kskwerl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Most motherboards nowadays have a way to control your fans through bios. But like blaze said, either a program like speedfan, some software bundled with your motherboards driver CD like ASUS has with its AI Suite, or a physical fan controller.


I haven't used speed fan in forever and I thought AI Suite was crappy? is that not the case anymore?

Also what are same good fan controllers these days?


----------



## pc-illiterate

lamptron fan controllers are top notch. vantech make good other stuff. i assume they make good controllers.
stay away from ai suite. it installs too much other crap to be useful when you can use speedfan.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kskwerl*
> 
> I haven't used speed fan in forever and I thought AI Suite was crappy? is that not the case anymore?
> 
> Also what are same good fan controllers these days?


Don't get me wrong, most of AI Suite is still crap. But if you install individual components, like Fan Xpert, you wont have any issues with bloatware on your system. Fan Xpert is what I used simply because it's easy and has a UI thats pleasing to the eyes and simple to manage.


----------



## CannedBullets

That's kinda weird, after I mounted my radiator fans to pull air through the rad instead of push through it (it'll be easier to dust out that way) Corsair Link shows that my Pump and fans have readings of zero. Except the fans and pump definitely work because I was able to get through a few matches of BF4 without any signs of overheating (no throttling, no shutdowns, etc).

Also, on one of the rad fans, I accidentally stripped two screws on one side of the fan. But the other six screws are good so it should hopefully hold. Otherwise the rad will crash down onto my GPU and damage the PCIe slot.

Yeah my ambients are around 50 F and the highest the CPU core temp got was 38 C and the highest the socket temp got was 41 C. Not sure how it would do in summer where the ambients in my house can get close to 90 F.


----------



## OmarCCX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> That's kinda weird, after I mounted my radiator fans to pull air through the rad instead of push through it (it'll be easier to dust out that way) Corsair Link shows that my Pump and fans have readings of zero. Except the fans and pump definitely work because I was able to get through a few matches of BF4 without any signs of overheating (no throttling, no shutdowns, etc).
> 
> Also, on one of the rad fans, I accidentally stripped two screws on one side of the fan. But the other six screws are good so it should hopefully hold. Otherwise the rad will crash down onto my GPU and damage the PCIe slot.
> 
> Yeah my ambients are around 50 F and the highest the CPU core temp got was 38 C and the highest the socket temp got was 41 C. Not sure how it would do in summer where the ambients in my house can get close to 90 F.


I'm pretty sure Corsair Link doesn't work properly under 8.1


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmarCCX*
> 
> I'm pretty sure Corsair Link doesn't work properly under 8.1


This is correct. We've already made the changes that needs to be implemented with current version to make it fully functional with 8.1. Here is the latest update From Corsair George;

*Corsair Link and Windows 8.1 UPDATE*


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> This is correct. We've already made the changes that needs to be implemented with current version to make it fully functional with 8.1. Here is the latest update From Corsair George;
> 
> *Corsair Link and Windows 8.1 UPDATE*


Ah, so it looks like we'll have to wait for an 8.1 patch to Corsair Link.


----------



## MillerLite1314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> This is correct. We've already made the changes that needs to be implemented with current version to make it fully functional with 8.1. Here is the latest update From Corsair George;
> 
> *Corsair Link and Windows 8.1 UPDATE*


Finally get some info







, this update is the only thing keeping me from delidding and overclocking.


----------



## EliteReplay

Is there any one here with a first generation H60? is there any issue with this cooler)_?


----------



## nathanblandford

H100i owner here. I had the same windows 8.1 issues of link not seeing my h100i or any fans connected to it but i used the regedit usb fix and it is now working which is great. However i find that the custom fan speed graphs and temp settings dont well if at all. I just purchased the lighting and cooling kit for better control and to give it a proper chance but are these issues going to be addressed in the coming update?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanblandford*
> 
> H100i owner here. I had the same windows 8.1 issues of link not seeing my h100i or any fans connected to it but i used the regedit usb fix and it is now working which is great. However i find that the custom fan speed graphs and temp settings dont well if at all. I just purchased the lighting and cooling kit for better control and to give it a proper chance but are these issues going to be addressed in the coming update?


For the H100i, the temp that the speeds are based on is the liquid temp, not the CPU's temps....The liquid temps don't increase very much, since the fans and the radiator do a pretty good job of keeping it cool....


----------



## skarrd

I just got my h100i about a week ago.

so far i love it as it runs amazing!

i question i got (don't know if it's been asked (probably has but couldn't find it)) how strong is the pump? i would like to have the radiator mounted outside my case as i have a thermaltake v3 and it's a super tight fit to get the radiator mounted on the inside (had to mount the fan on the outside ontop)

I'm wondering if the pump could handle running it through a bay reservoir and then to the top of the case. since i know i would need to disconnect the line and drain the fluid out, figured a bay reservoir would make things easier to refill.


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skarrd*
> 
> I just got my h100i about a week ago.
> 
> so far i love it as it runs amazing!
> 
> i question i got (don't know if it's been asked (probably has but couldn't find it)) how strong is the pump? i would like to have the radiator mounted outside my case as i have a thermaltake v3 and it's a super tight fit to get the radiator mounted on the inside (had to mount the fan on the outside ontop)
> 
> I'm wondering if the pump could handle running it through a bay reservoir and then to the top of the case. since i know i would need to disconnect the line and drain the fluid out, figured a bay reservoir would make things easier to refill.


for what you want to do you should have bought the xspc kit
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21235/ex-wat-270/XSPC_Raystorm_750_EX240_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_New_Rev_4_Pump_Included_w_Free_Dead-Water.html?tl=g30c321s1310


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> For the H100i, the temp that the speeds are based on is the liquid temp, not the CPU's temps....The liquid temps don't increase very much, since the fans and the radiator do a pretty good job of keeping it cool....


Oh really!? When you select the group for it aka my i5 temp instead of h100i temp does that change what it references?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanblandford*
> 
> Oh really!? When you select the group for it aka my i5 temp instead of h100i temp does that change what it references?


Not as far as I've seen....I spent the first several days of ownership trying to get it to adjust according to different temps, but the only thing that seems to adjust the fan speed is the liquid temps....


----------



## nathanblandford

Ye
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Not as far as I've seen....I spent the first several days of ownership trying to get it to adjust according to different temps, but the only thing that seems to adjust the fan speed is the liquid temps....


Yeah me too. I can get it to use the built in profiles but the custom profile doesnt work for fans above 45-50 celsius. Nor does the colour change from anything other than i light blue even if cpu temps are well above the points i set. Also i can get it to change colour when i reference it against the gpu temps. So i know it will use other temp reference points. Ill see how i go when i put in my link commander lighting and cooling kit which just came. Ill let you know if it helps or hinders.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> Is there any one here with a first generation H60? is there any issue with this cooler)_?


Not that we are currently aware about. 1st gen H60 was released couple years ago, and IIRC, the only issue that we have seen initially was the pump noise, that was caught on early batches, in which we had addressed and got a fixed right away.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanblandford*
> 
> Oh really!? When you select the group for it aka my i5 temp instead of h100i temp does that change what it references?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Not as far as I've seen....I spent the first several days of ownership trying to get it to adjust according to different temps, but the only thing that seems to adjust the fan speed is the liquid temps....


blaze is pretty much correct on this one. The fan curve of the cooler will always adjust depending under the group it belongs to. Ideally, we'd recommend that you put it under H100i/H80i temp group which is coolant temp, rather than CPU temp. The reason for this is, the coolant is the agent that dissipates heat on the CPU, it'd be optimal if the fan rpm reacts to the coolant temp vs the CPU temp itself. It's just more effective cooling this way.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Not that we are currently aware about. 1st gen H60 was released couple years ago, and IIRC, the only issue that we have seen initially was the pump noise, that was caught on early batches, in which we had addressed and got a fixed right away.
> 
> blaze is pretty much correct on this one. The fan curve of the cooler will always adjust depending under the group it belongs to. Ideally, we'd recommend that you put it under H100i/H80i temp group which is coolant temp, rather than CPU temp. The reason for this is, the coolant is the agent that dissipates heat on the CPU, it'd be optimal if the fan rpm reacts to the coolant temp vs the CPU temp itself. It's just more effective cooling this way.


The unfortunate (depending on your POV), is that the radiator and fans seem to be doing too good of a job at keeping the liquid cooled, but that amount of coolness doesn't seem to completely translate into the CPU being as cool....

I even submitted a support ticket for this, but it appears that it's normal. So, unfortunately, it looks like I'll be getting a different cooler....


----------



## derfer

Has anyone tested if block orientation make's a difference on Haswell?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> Has anyone tested if block orientation make's a difference on Haswell?


Nope, I haven't....My current setup really only allows for the one orientation - where the Corsair logo is sitting up straight.....


----------



## pc-illiterate

what are your load temps blaze?
the radiator and fans are only to cool the liquid. the liquid absorbs heat from the block and that from the cpu ihs. yeah im being a smartass but... lol


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> what are your load temps blaze?
> the radiator and fans are only to cool the liquid. the liquid absorbs heat from the block and that from the cpu ihs. yeah im being a smartass but... lol


No worries, I tend to be a bit of a smart-ass myself....







Previously, my load temps were in the low-mid 70's (C), that is a 4670k OC'd to 4.6ghz....But I just solved my temp issue yesterday with a delid....I get how the liquid cooling works, but it didn't seem to be transferring much heat from the CPU, since the liquid temps never changed.


----------



## MillerLite1314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> No worries, I tend to be a bit of a smart-ass myself....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Previously, my load temps were in the low-mid 70's (C), that is a 4670k OC'd to 4.6ghz....But I just solved my temp issue yesterday with a delid....I get how the liquid cooling works, but it didn't seem to be transferring much heat from the CPU, since the liquid temps never changed.


what are your temps at now? I'm running an i5-3570k and am thinking of delidding for my H80i to get some better temps. I just recently changed out one of the stock SP120Ls for a Cooler Master that was on my GeminII S524 and noticed a few degree difference at idle but under load the cooling isn't spread as even anymore.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerLite1314*
> 
> what are your temps at now? I'm running an i5-3570k and am thinking of delidding for my H80i to get some better temps. I just recently changed out one of the stock SP120Ls for a Cooler Master that was on my GeminII S524 and noticed a few degree difference at idle but under load the cooling isn't spread as even anymore.


I ran Prime95 for a few mins before the delid and got temps in the mid 80's....I ran Prime after the delid for the same amount of time and my temps were in the mid 60's....









Also, my idle temps dropped ~10*C....









NOTE: I used CL Pro between the die and the IHS, and GC Extreme between the H100i and the IHS.


----------



## MillerLite1314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I ran Prime95 for a few mins before the delid and got temps in the mid 80's....I ran Prime after the delid for the same amount of time and my temps were in the mid 60's....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my idle temps dropped ~10*C....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOTE: I used CL Pro between the die and the IHS, and GC Extreme between the H100i and the IHS.


awesome, might have to give a try and help out my H80i.


----------



## nathanblandford

I keep seeing posts about people delidding but im so scared to do it myself. Im at 4.5 with my 4670k and it can reach temps of up to about 70-73 with prime or aida64. Also im going to custom loop in a couple of weeks just waiting on parts so ill be able to compare custom with the h100i and my brother will be getting my h100i. Not going custom because the h100 was bad, just because i shouldve done it in the first place.
Thanks for the info about the temp reference. My question before shouldve been worded differently as i wasnt worried about the fan speed and what that referenced. I just wanted my corsair logo led to show cpu temp not coolant temp because as you said the coolant wont get very hot. Kinda like a visual indicator for when im in game in summer i dont have to have an overlay running or listening out for my fans going crazy. Does that make sense?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Not that we are currently aware about. 1st gen H60 was released couple years ago, and IIRC, the only issue that we have seen initially was the pump noise, that was caught on early batches, in which we had addressed and got a fixed right away.
> 
> blaze is pretty much correct on this one. The fan curve of the cooler will always adjust depending under the group it belongs to. Ideally, we'd recommend that you put it under H100i/H80i temp group which is coolant temp, rather than CPU temp. The reason for this is, the coolant is the agent that dissipates heat on the CPU, it'd be optimal if the fan rpm reacts to the coolant temp vs the CPU temp itself. It's just more effective cooling this way.


Wouldn't it be more effective if the cpu temperature caused the fans speed to increase before the coolant temp increased so you get a faster response? In fact, wouldn't that even provide the opportunity to keep the coolant delta small since it would be reacting to the CPU temp before the coolant had a chance to increase in temp?

It seems to me this is just another software glitch.

So, how about if the contact between the cpu and cooler isn't perfect, yet instead of reacting to the overly warm cpu, the system is reacting to the accidentally too-cool cooler temperature? In effect, under cooling when you need cooling the most. Lots of people install these coolers and since they are not experienced, they don't get a perfect mating. It seems a bad move for their systems coolers to be functioning based on the coolant temperature.


----------



## blaze2210

*Question for all Corsair CLC owners/users:* Has anyone messed around with changing the pump speed in the Link software? Mainly, has anyone seen any sort of improvement in performance by changing the Pump Divider setting to 1 (as opposed to the default of 2)?


----------



## pc-illiterate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Wouldn't it be more effective if the cpu temperature caused the fans speed to increase before the coolant temp increased so you get a faster response? In fact, wouldn't that even provide the opportunity to keep the coolant delta small since it would be reacting to the CPU temp before the coolant had a chance to increase in temp?
> 
> It seems to me this is just another software glitch.
> 
> So, how about if the contact between the cpu and cooler isn't perfect, yet instead of reacting to the overly warm cpu, the system is reacting to the accidentally too-cool cooler temperature? In effect, under cooling when you need cooling the most. Lots of people install these coolers and since they are not experienced, they don't get a perfect mating. It seems a bad move for their systems coolers to be functioning based on the coolant temperature.


good question and very valid. since the pump runs 100% 24/7, run your fans from the motherboard cpu header. then the fans react no matter what the cooler is doing.


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Wouldn't it be more effective if the cpu temperature caused the fans speed to increase before the coolant temp increased so you get a faster response? In fact, wouldn't that even provide the opportunity to keep the coolant delta small since it would be reacting to the CPU temp before the coolant had a chance to increase in temp?
> 
> It seems to me this is just another software glitch.
> 
> So, how about if the contact between the cpu and cooler isn't perfect, yet instead of reacting to the overly warm cpu, the system is reacting to the accidentally too-cool cooler temperature? In effect, under cooling when you need cooling the most. Lots of people install these coolers and since they are not experienced, they don't get a perfect mating. It seems a bad move for their systems coolers to be functioning based on the coolant temperature.


This was my thinking and why i wondered if you could change what it was referencing for speed as all the other fans can be set that way. I was hoping when i put my CLInk module in that it would actually do this or that i would have some say over what the fans and the led were doing. That and the fact that the temp graphs only go to 70 degrees makes me think it isnt quite a finished piece of software. Especially seeing as it is aimed at people that want a cheap cooler for overclocking.


----------



## Mergatroid

^

I use the two cpu_fan headers on my mobo to control my H100 fans. I agree that it's a good choice if two cpu-fan headers are available. If not, a good PWM splitter will accomplish the same thing. I think Corsair is onto something pretty cool with their software though. I'm sure they will keep updating it. It doesn't seem like it should be too hard to get cpu temperature control working.


----------



## Archea47

Welp, here's my entry!










I'm not all too happy with my H100i. I *was*, until I ran IBT on it @ 5Ghz. I would hit 60*C, and eventually I imagine it got heatsoaked to 62*C (FX-8350) so I shut her down

I have some GELID GC-Extreme TIM on the way. Really I need 3*C to calm me down. We'll see if it gets me there

Otherwise I'm going to try adding two more fans to the H100i for a push/pull

And worst case scenario go custom with two radiators as I have space for something in the optical bays


----------



## pc-illiterate

changing the tim wont help. corsair uses or top performing tim. they used to use dow corning brand but i heard changed to something that is just as good but saves them a few pennies.

how much voltage are you pushing?


----------



## Mergatroid

^ They used to use Shin Etsu, but switched to Dow Corning. That was when they started manufacturing the i series. Have you heard differently since then?


----------



## pc-illiterate

no apparently i had it backwards. still damned good tim.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-illiterate*
> 
> how much voltage are you pushing?


Vcore @ 1.5, needs 1.55 to pass stress tests but it's stable enough at 1.5 that I haven't had a BSOD or gaming issues

When playing BF4 it's temperatures are fine, but loading a new level spikes the CPU to 55-56*C sometimes. That makes me uncomfortable


----------



## pc-illiterate

well thats ahelluva lotta voltage. its going to get hot.
the corsair units are not meant for extreme overclocking at all.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Vcore @ 1.5, needs 1.55 to pass stress tests but it's stable enough at 1.5 that I haven't had a BSOD or gaming issues
> 
> When playing BF4 it's temperatures are fine, but loading a new level spikes the CPU to 55-56*C sometimes. That makes me uncomfortable


As PC/Merg said changing the TIM will not get you the 3+c improvement your looking for ... unless you wanted to gamble with a "Liquid Metal TIM". For some it works great even between the IHS and cooling block, not just on the de-lid ... see *[HERE]*

Also I wouldn't worry about my temps temporarily spiking to 55-56c ... at those volts







... your H100i is doing a fine job IMO









AND ... AND ... as soon as AMD fully implements "Mantel" for BF4 your nice 5.0 OC won't matter anymore ... over 10K objects and a 100K call batches he still couldn't saturate the CPU even when downclocked to 2.0GHz ... see *[HERE]* ...


----------



## Zed03

Being worried about 56c on a h100i is pretty silly. Run the intel burn test, it'll hit 100*c no problem.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zed03*
> 
> Being worried about 56c on a h100i is pretty silly. Run the intel burn test, it'll hit 100*c no problem.


It's an AMD FX-8350 - thermal limit is ~62.5*C. And yes I use intel burn test, which brings it to 60*C+


----------



## pc-illiterate

60*C in ibt is nothing to worry about.


----------



## skarrd

so i got a little creative with my h100i and did some changes to it.

surprisingly it works quite well, pump had no trouble getting the fluid up to the radiator.


Have the fans mounted at the top of the case under the radiator (can't really see them)

still has some of those pesky tiny bubbles that take forever to get rid of. but no noise coming from the pump at all.

temps and pump speed at cold (no load)


full load


also incase anyone is needing info on the hose. the fittings are 3/8" so you're going to want to use 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD


----------



## Archea47

skarrd, very interesting!

Are you running another radiator up front or a res? Did you notice an increase in cooling performance with either?


----------



## skarrd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> skarrd, very interesting!
> 
> Are you running another radiator up front or a res? Did you notice an increase in cooling performance with either?


running an XSPC single bay res up front and just the h100i radiator on top.
http://www.xs-pc.com/reservoirs/single-525-bay-reservoir-alu-front

not sure if it's from having it outside the case or with just using distilled water but i notice the temps under control alot better and they cool down much faster than before. I'm suspecting that having the radiator inside the case was causing heatsoak and rendering it useless at that point.

i will say this though, the h100i pump is very touchy when there's some air in the line, took a bit to get enough fluid in there for it to start pumping. but then again this was my first time with building a custom loop so i'm not sure if that's the same for all pumps


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Pretty cool mod Skarrd









I've noticed the tubes you used. Don't you think they are a bit long? I see that you have the pump up side down, not that it will affect the pump's performance, but, is there a reason why you have it that way?


----------



## skarrd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Pretty cool mod Skarrd
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've noticed the tubes you used. Don't you think they are a bit long? I see that you have the pump up side down, not that it will affect the pump's performance, but, is there a reason why you have it that way?


no real reason for the pump being like that, just seemed to fit a little better that way.

the tubes do need to get trimmed down. i had them long to start since i knew i was going to be pulling the bay res out alot to fill and shake out any bubbles.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skarrd*
> 
> so i got a little creative with my h100i and did some changes to it.
> 
> surprisingly it works quite well, pump had no trouble getting the fluid up to the radiator.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have the fans mounted at the top of the case under the radiator (can't really see them)
> 
> still has some of those pesky tiny bubbles that take forever to get rid of. but no noise coming from the pump at all.
> 
> temps and pump speed at cold (no load)
> 
> 
> full load
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also incase anyone is needing info on the hose. the fittings are 3/8" so you're going to want to use 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD


Just as an FYI: you can replace the background of the Link program with a picture of the inside of your own case - makes it a little more personal....


----------



## ammoune

Hello everyone, i bought a week ago a corsair H80i from U.S.A, and once back to home ( Algeria , yea it was a great trip ) yesterday i installed the beast , despite everything is running fine my corsair isn't detected and when i run corsair link the cooler isn't recognized ( my GPU, CPU and HDD are detected except the cooler) so i can't adjust anything ( fan speed, or LED color ....and all that stuff).
The installation was done properly everything is plugged at it's right place , i tried to change the USB header but didn't work









Please guide me to solve this? Thank you


----------



## MillerLite1314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ammoune*
> 
> Hello everyone, i bought a week ago a corsair H80i from U.S.A, and once back to home ( Algeria , yea it was a great trip ) yesterday i installed the beast , despite everything is running fine my corsair isn't detected and when i run corsair link the cooler isn't recognized ( my GPU, CPU and HDD are detected except the cooler) so i can't adjust anything ( fan speed, or LED color ....and all that stuff).
> The installation was done properly everything is plugged at it's right place , i tried to change the USB header but didn't work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please guide me to solve this? Thank you


What version of windows are you running?


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerLite1314*
> 
> What version of windows are you running?


If its 8.1 or 8 there is a registry fix for the pump not being recognised.


----------



## ammoune

Hello, thanks for you're interest; im running windows 7 premium 64 bit ( i already know abt the issue of windows 8/8.1)


----------



## MillerLite1314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ammoune*
> 
> Hello, thanks for you're interest; im running windows 7 premium 64 bit ( i already know abt the issue of windows 8/8.1)


Not a problem. I own the H80i as well and its a great cooler when youre able to utilize its full potential. Have you gotten the latest drivers from corsair? If so I would wipe them clean and reinstall with a restart right after.


----------



## ammoune

@ MillerLite1314: yea right its a great cooler (no doubt abt that) , even if its not detected and running PWM , it keeps my processor cold and for a good silence ( i gained +10 degrees compared to intel stock fan) , honestly i didn't install anything except corsair link 2.4 ( i thought its what i only have to install since at their website there is nothing to DL except corsair link lol) , what should i install?


----------



## MillerLite1314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ammoune*
> 
> @ MillerLite1314: yea right its a great cooler (no doubt abt that) , even if its not detected and running PWM , it keeps my processor cold and for a good silence ( i gained +10 degrees compared to intel stock fan) , honestly i didn't install anything except corsair link 2.4 ( i thought its what i only have to install since at their website there is nothing to DL except corsair link lol) , what should i install?


Ok that is what you wanted. Since youve tried different usb headers already i would do a driver sweep and a clean install. Check all connections at the pump and power connections. Then registry to makethe sure allexactly is well. From there if no one else has any ideas then go to corsair customer service.


----------



## ammoune

Ok, gonna do this once at home ( yes somes work even the weekend







), but i have a question to make sure, when u say corsair drivers you mean corsair link right?


----------



## Gereti

Am I now?
Arvor Evo+H80i+Phenom II 1055T


----------



## MillerLite1314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ammoune*
> 
> Ok, gonna do this once at home ( yes somes work even the weekend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), but i have a question to make sure, when u say corsair drivers you mean corsair link right?


yes the software for corsair link. sorry about that.


----------



## ammoune

Hello, well finally i could make it works but in a weird way XD , i tried everything to make it works with corsair mini usb - usb header but all what i did was a total failure, it couldn't be detected even if i reinstalled everything and i changed and tried all usb entries, even i tried many versions of corsair link (2.2, 2.3, 2.4 rc...etc) so i took another similar usb that i used to plug it with my psp ( the unly difference is in the usb header, its a normal usb port ) and then it worked! Lol but the problem now i have a cable hanging outside -,-
It could be a a usb problem? i mean maybe the usb given in the package isn't working properly? Well i can leave it the way it is but aesthetically isn't good looking .





So any suggestion?


----------



## pc-illiterate

email corsair support and tell them whats happening. they may send you a new cable. make sure to post in their forums also. you usually get faster help because support reps hang out there.


----------



## Archea47

Not to derail ammoune's troubleshooting but ...

I'm happy with my h100i again!









I lapped my FX-8350 and switched to Gelid GC-Extreme from the Corsair paste - netted a 12*C improvement during IBT @ 4.8Ghz













I didn't touch the h100i (other than cleaning and tinning it), just flattened the 8350 IHS


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Hi there! Here's my H100i.
http://s373.photobucket.com/user/Hawkins79/media/PC stuff/DSCN1809.jpg.html


----------



## Gereti

allright guy's, got new camera, and better pics
here we go


----------



## Amiar

I just ordered a Cooler Master HAF XM case and the Corsair H100i. I was wondering if anyone could tell me if this would fit a push pull setup.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Milestailsprowe

I have a question

Would a H55 be better at cooling then a Noctua NH-L12. I have a best buy gift card and I was curious about it.


----------



## Mergatroid

No. If the choice is between the H55 and the NH-L12, and your criteria is just the amount of cooling you will get, then you're likely better off with the air cooler.
If, however, what your case looks like inside is also a consideration, then you may be more interested in the water cooler. The H55 is pretty much the lowest end Corsair AIO water cooler. If you're really interested in cooling, then the H80i or H100i may be more what you're looking for. Even the H110 if you have the space to mount a 2 x 140mm cooler.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Milestailsprowe*
> 
> I have a question
> 
> Would a H55 be better at cooling then a Noctua NH-L12. I have a best buy gift card and I was curious about it.


The H55 is nearly discounted everywhere because it doesn't do much. If you can't go with a real H80/90 at least opt for H60 2013 edition but like others said an air cooler will still be better than that.


----------



## Xylene

My H100 crapped the bed, I think it's clogged because I took the pump out and it was full of gunk and my CPU was hitting 105c under IBT. Didn't want to rip it apart and try to clear the clog and refill and wanted to go back to air cooling but also didn't want to wait a week to get the cooler I wanted so I settled for a H100i from Micro Center. Build quality seems a lot better than the H100 and no longer having to open the case to change fan speed is nice.


----------



## Mad Pistol

Here's my entry into the Corsair H club with my new H110:


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylene*
> 
> My H100 crapped the bed, I think it's clogged because I took the pump out and it was full of gunk and my CPU was hitting 105c under IBT. Didn't want to rip it apart and try to clear the clog and refill and wanted to go back to air cooling but also didn't want to wait a week to get the cooler I wanted so I settled for a H100i from Micro Center. Build quality seems a lot better than the H100 and no longer having to open the case to change fan speed is nice.


I don't get that. You took your pump apart? Without taking it apart, how could you tell it was clogged?
The H100 has a five year warranty, why didn't you just return it for replacement? They likely would have given you an H100i anyway.


----------



## Xylene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I don't get that. You took your pump apart? Without taking it apart, how could you tell it was clogged?
> The H100 has a five year warranty, why didn't you just return it for replacement? They likely would have given you an H100i anyway.


I took the top off and took the four screws out. I didn't feel like waiting for the RMA and suspected they'd reject it anyway because the fan controller top clips broke like a year ago. What I mean about ripping it apart I meant take off the block (all the screws on the bottom) and clean that and try to get all the crap out of the rad and lines.


----------



## Mergatroid

^ Can you show us a picture of the clogged pump? I don't understand how it could get clogged since it's sealed.


----------



## Xylene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> ^ Can you show us a picture of the clogged pump? I don't understand how it could get clogged since it's sealed.


It's put back together now but I'll take it apart sometime soon and post pictures. I thought the same thing, but there was some kind of build up in it. It was like flakes of grime. I am guessing it's clogged up in there somewhere in the loop because the pump works fine, I connected it to 3 pin power when removed and it spun up no issues, but I am guessing it wasn't moving any or much water hence the insane temps. Also, when the pump was in the waterblock I'd get no reading on the RPM, but other fans and my new H100i plugged into the same header on my motherboard gave readings. I guess that was another issue in itself, or just when the pump is installed in the unit the clog is so bad that the pump can't spin.


----------



## Xylene

I wanted to see more myself so I just cracked it open more.. here it is.





Most of the crap in the block/pump fell out during disassembly, it but there is clearly a ton of build up in there. I am sure the rest of the loop is just as covered.

I guess I can really kiss my chance of RMA good bye now unless Corsair is feeling very generous, because I dropped a few screws down the sink!

I sent CorsairGeorge a message to show him these pictures and we'll see if I hear anything.


----------



## Degree

Hey guys, I have the H100 and I've been wanting to replace the two fans because it's so loud and it's been about a year and a half that I haven't done anything about it!

Now I think it's the time because I'm going to go crazy if I don't replace it any sooner, so you guys have any suggestions?


----------



## Xylene

CorsairGeorge already got back to me and they want the unit for eval. We'll see what happens from here.


----------



## kizwan

@Xylene

Good work, even if you may already void warranty of your cooler. I hope Corsair find the underlying cause if there's any.


----------



## SkateZilla

What was that gunk? look like Glue or some type of flem I empty out of my bathroom water filter.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylene*
> 
> It's put back together now but I'll take it apart sometime soon and post pictures. I thought the same thing, but there was some kind of build up in it. It was like flakes of grime. I am guessing it's clogged up in there somewhere in the loop because the pump works fine, I connected it to 3 pin power when removed and it spun up no issues, but I am guessing it wasn't moving any or much water hence the insane temps. Also, when the pump was in the waterblock I'd get no reading on the RPM, but other fans and my new H100i plugged into the same header on my motherboard gave readings. I guess that was another issue in itself, or just when the pump is installed in the unit the clog is so bad that the pump can't spin.


It's a good thing you caught it in time then. If I was you I would contact Corsair and let them know, it's possible they may want you to send it to them just so they can investigate. You might get something out of it too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylene*
> 
> CorsairGeorge already got back to me and they want the unit for eval. We'll see what happens from here.


Good job man. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Hey guys, I have the H100 and I've been wanting to replace the two fans because it's so loud and it's been about a year and a half that I haven't done anything about it!
> 
> Now I think it's the time because I'm going to go crazy if I don't replace it any sooner, so you guys have any suggestions?


Lol, that's a bit of a loaded question. Any fan that has good static pressure, and low noise should be fine. Most people like Scythe Gentile Typhoons for performance vs noise. Yate Loons are pretty good as well. Corsair also makes some pretty nice PWM fans now that work pretty good.

You could do a search of this thread for "fans" and check out what comes up. This is pretty much the most often asked question in the thread.

Note, if you're using the H100 (not the H100i) you will get better results by using PWM fans and connecting them to the CPU_FAN header on your motherboard. This way, your motherboard can control the speed of the fans. This makes them really quiet under most circumstances (I'm doing that with my H100). Your motherboard has two CPU_FAN headers on it so you should have no problems.


----------



## qcktthfm1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Note, if you're using the H100 (not the H100i) you will get better results by using PWM fans and connecting them to the CPU_FAN header on your motherboard. This way, your motherboard can control the speed of the fans. This makes them really quiet under most circumstances (I'm doing that with my H100). Your motherboard has two CPU_FAN headers on it so you should have no problems.


I having the same problem too. But in H100i, 2 fans go 2300 RPM from the start, even in idle, a bit noisy.
I guess they still loud even I change other fans in this speed? Is this normal?
I connect 2 fans to the pump, pump to the CPU_FAN. Didn't use Corsair software tho.
Thanks.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qcktthfm1*
> 
> I having the same problem too. But in H100i, 2 fans go 2300 RPM from the start, even in idle, a bit noisy.
> I guess they still loud even I change other fans in this speed? Is this normal?
> I connect 2 fans to the pump, pump to the CPU_FAN. Didn't use Corsair software tho.
> Thanks.


If you're using the H100i, then the software would be how you'd control the speed of the fans that are attached to it.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Hey guys, I have the H100 and I've been wanting to replace the two fans because it's so loud and it's been about a year and a half that I haven't done anything about it!
> 
> Now I think it's the time because I'm going to go crazy if I don't replace it any sooner, so you guys have any suggestions?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qcktthfm1*
> 
> I having the same problem too. But in H100i, 2 fans go 2300 RPM from the start, even in idle, a bit noisy.
> I guess they still loud even I change other fans in this speed? Is this normal?
> I connect 2 fans to the pump, pump to the CPU_FAN. Didn't use Corsair software tho.
> Thanks.


Consider a fan controller. I use one for my H80i fans instead of using the Corsair software (not a fan of it).


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qcktthfm1*
> 
> I having the same problem too. But in H100i, 2 fans go 2300 RPM from the start, even in idle, a bit noisy.
> I guess they still loud even I change other fans in this speed? Is this normal?
> I connect 2 fans to the pump, pump to the CPU_FAN. Didn't use Corsair software tho.
> Thanks.


If you're using the 3-pin fans that originally came with the H100i, you should contact Corsair. I believe they are offering some new fans to replace them under warranty. The new fans are PWM and can be controlled properly from the software.

If your fans are already the 4-pin PWM fans, then I would suggest trying the firmware update from Corsair's site. If the firmware update, combined with the software from Corsair, will not get the fans working properly, then you should contact Corsair support. You could also join their forums and read around to see how other people have solved the problem.

If you don't like the Corsair software, you have a couple of options:

1: If your H100i came with 3-pin fans, contact Corsair and get the Warranty 4-pin fans (PWM), then plug them into your motherboard CPU_FAN header. If you only have one CPU_FAN header on your motherboard, purchase a PWM splitter so you can plug both fans in.

2: If you already have the 4-pin PWM fans, plug them into your motherboard header as described above.

3: You could also do as suggested by GoneTomorrow above and purchase an aftermarket fan controller. However, this means you will have to manually control your fans and remember to turn them up when you're loading the cpu. Although I have a fan controller, I only use it for my case fans and allow the motherboard to control my cpu fans.

EDIT

To both you fellows having fan issues.

If you decide to go with PWM and use your CPU_FAN headers, don't forget that 120mm fans run a lot slower than the stock Intel fans do. Because of this, you may get a CPU FAN error on boot.

If this happens, enter BIOS during boot and check to see if you can reduce the warning threshold. On my last two motherboards I was able to do this, and I set them both to 200 RPM. So, if either of my 120mm fans go below 200 RPM I will get the cpu fan error, which is perfect for the fans I'm using.

Don't forget that if you update or reset the BIOS, you will have to make this adjustment again.

ALSO NOTE!!!!!! If you use this method, you will have to plug your pump into a different fan connector, like a Chassis_FAN or Power_FAN header. I would pick one that you motherboard monitors so that if the pump fails, you will get a fan failure warning.


----------



## qcktthfm1

I checked, mine H100i comes with 4 pin fans. I plug them into CPU_FAN. Running around 500 RPM, quieter now. CPU temp couple degrees higher as expected.
I decide to try Corsair software see if there's update.
I'm going to try a fan controller too, cause I want to control front, back, side fans by GPU temp with a temp probe








Thank you very much for the fast help guys


----------



## Mergatroid

^ We aim to please....


----------



## Degree

You guys think replacing my stock H100 fans with Cougars worth it?


----------



## Mergatroid

The Cougar Vortex PWM fans have about the minimum static pressure you would want in a rad fan at 2.2mmH2O. The stock H100 fans have something like 7.7mmH20, so they are very high performance, but noisy as well.

I was using some fans that claimed to be 2.something mmH2O and they sucked (or, well, they didn't suck enough). I have never tried the Cougars, but judging from the static pressure spec I would personally pass on them for a rad.

They do look pretty nice if you're into the whole orange thing. You could always experiment and let us know how it goes.


----------



## 00Smurf

Well i don't have them on the cpu's but the, premise is the same right?

One card runs a H90, the other 4 use h55's. Can't beat 54C mining temps.


----------



## Archea47

That's a gorgeous sight, 00Smurf









I purchased an EK DCP 4.0 (800L/hr) pump/res and an EK supremacy block to see if a higher flow pump and moving the pump off the block makes a significant difference (still going to use the H100i reservoir + fans for now)


----------



## 00Smurf

Lol thanks man, it was fun building them Here is what they look like in the rigs. One is a 3x setup, the other is a dual setup.
Quote:


> I have a 3 290 setup and a dual 290 setup. Both are full fledged computers, and have potential to be usefull in things other than just mining.
> 
> They are fully portable and pretty compact which is nice, very low db Fan wise, and temps are in the 45-60C at full hashing speed.
> 
> Two rig's and 5 290x's. One in a haf xb evo with 2 290x's. The other three in a carbide 540 case running tri-fire when not mining.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still needing to do some tweaking to the mining settings. My bottom card is the only card of the 5 that has hynix memory. Hoping to break the 1 M/h Barrier with it.


I'm getting 2700+ K/hash on the tri rig and 1.67 K/hash on the dual rig.


----------



## NorKris

Wow thats amazing...!








Any temp difference between card1 and card2/3... since card1 has exhuast-rad and card2/3 has intake-rads?
both of my cards has intake-rads


----------



## 00Smurf

Card one runs the hottest, at around 58-60c under full ovrclocked hashing/mode (this is mostly because this is the card I use to game with while leaving the other two hashing and s uch it has the pt1 bios and is over volted to 1.35). Card 2 runs the coolest at 45-48c, and card 3 runs at 50-52c.


----------



## end00

For anyone wondering about RMA I recently had to have my h100i sent in because of what I suspect was the pump just died. I noticed one day the idle temp was roughly 70*c and would shut down while gaming. I ended up sending it in and they sent me bnib unit and got it taken care of in 5 days. Overall great service from corsair. Maybe one day ill post a pic so I can officially be apart of the club


----------



## end00




----------



## NorKris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *00Smurf*
> 
> Card one runs the hottest, at around 58-60c under full ovrclocked hashing/mode (this is mostly because this is the card I use to game with while leaving the other two hashing and s uch it has the pt1 bios and is over volted to 1.35). Card 2 runs the coolest at 45-48c, and card 3 runs at 50-52c.


u dont sli them while gaming?
60c on card1 is cuz of it is exhaust.. it might climb over 65


----------



## SkateZilla

Hopefully my H100 Doesnt freeze up..... lol.

5 Degrees in the area, and guess what... the Heater broke.. .... I left for work, but I left my PC On and disabled power saving features so it puts out some Nice TDP.....


----------



## Amr0d

I am new to this watercooling stuff but recently bought a H100i and then read that you can build a "push/pull" version instead of the normal version. How does that work and will my temps be significantly lower than normal?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amr0d*
> 
> I am new to this watercooling stuff but recently bought a H100i and then read that you can build a "push/pull" version instead of the normal version. How does that work and will my temps be significantly lower than normal?


Push/Pull means that you have one set of fans under the radiator that push air through the radiator and out of the case, then another pair of fans on top of the radiator that are pulling that air from the radiator .


----------



## Amr0d

What radiators should I use? I have seen that Corsair offers Quiet and High Performance ones? I was about to buy the quiet ones if that's right.


----------



## pc-illiterate

corsair doesnt sell radiators. they do however sell, what i think you meant, fans. get some gentle typhoon ap-15 or noise blockers. since youre in germany b-negative knows some awesome alp-something fans


----------



## Amr0d

Oh yea, I meant fans of course, sorry about that. Why not use the SP120 from Corsair?


----------



## pc-illiterate

they are obscenely loud and imo, over-priced.


----------



## Archea47

I suppose it depends what your preference is

As far as I understand, Static Pressure is the metric we're most concerned about for radiator cooling

The Corsair SP120*L* (stock fans on the h100i) have 4mmH20 static pressure ... but are pretty dang loud at 2400RPM

The Corsair SP120 Quiet's have something like 1.5mmH20 ... but are much quieter

Some people are more concerned with performance, others with how loud fans are

Personally I would get two more SP120L's









Your H100i should have come with two Y cables that will let you plug in four 4-pin fans at the same time into your Corsair pump


----------



## Mergatroid

There is the SP120 quiet edition, and the SP120 performance edition. Those are two different fans and perform differently.

SP120 PWM High Performance:

4-PIN PWM
Static Pressure: 3.1mm/H2O
Airflow: 62.74 CFM
Sound Level: 35dBA
Speed: 2350 RPM.

SP120 PWM Quiet Edition:

4-PIN PWM
Static Pressure: 1.29mm/H2O
Sound Level: 23dBA
Speed: 1450 RPM

They're both good fans depending on what you're looking for. Since they are PWM, they will control very well so noise at low RPMs under lower loads should be almost nil. When they ramp up RPM under heavier loads, obviously the Performance fan would be louder, but then if temperatures are more important to you than noise when you're at full load, you going to want the higher performance.


----------



## Amr0d

So far I got the stock fans on there and quite happy. They run at 900 rpm now and pretty quite. What I am wonderin about is the temperature. If I set the fans to max speed with corsair link, the CPU has exactly the same temperature when on quiet mode with 900 rpm (according to corsair link). It never goes lower than 29 average.


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amr0d*
> 
> So far I got the stock fans on there and quite happy. They run at 900 rpm now and pretty quite. What I am wonderin about is the temperature. If I set the fans to max speed with corsair link, the CPU has exactly the same temperature when on quiet mode with 900 rpm (according to corsair link). It never goes lower than 29 average.


Whats your ambient temperature? And have you benchmarked your cpu before using something like Aida64 or prime95? If you have change the rpm during a benchmark and you'll see a difference.


----------



## dioxholster

ive changed coolers from Antec 620 to Corsair H60 (2013), here are the differences:

Antc 620 @ 1400rpm fan speed:


Corsair H60 @ 1900rpm fan speed:


with the Antec the fan was connected to the pump and the pump was connected to the CPU header, which was at full speed in bios. Yet it still only went as far as 1400rpm for some reason and i had no control over it. For corsair the fan is seperated from pump so I could control its speed which is max 1900rpm and min is 1080rpm for when its idle as its on Automatic in bios. It takes a bit of time for it to speed up when temps get really hot, like 2 minute delay. I knew the H60 would be a downgrade for cooling so i wasnt surprised, seems like antec performed much better, i dont know what you guys think? I should probably compare them with both same fan speeds. The corsair fan is kind of loud even on low, anyone know what to replace it with? I have it as exhaust.

also i have the pump connected to the "power fan connector (PWR fan)" is that wrong?


----------



## Amr0d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanblandford*
> 
> Whats your ambient temperature? And have you benchmarked your cpu before using something like Aida64 or prime95? If you have change the rpm during a benchmark and you'll see a difference.


Around 20 °C sometimes a bit colder and if TV etc. is turned on it's around 22°C

My CPU is at stock, why benchmark? I really would like to overclock it but I have no clue how


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amr0d*
> 
> Around 20 °C sometimes a bit colder and if TV etc. is turned on it's around 22°C
> 
> My CPU is at stock, why benchmark? I really would like to overclock it but I have no clue how


with those ambients you wont see much lower temps than what youre getting. well the benchmarking was so you could push your cpu and see that the fans do make a difference under load at much higher temps. Overclocking isnt too hard but just be careful and take it easy whilst being patient and you'll be fine, you have more than adequate cooling so youre in a good starting place. Heres a few guides i could rustle up some that even use your Motherboard







:

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cpus/2011/01/07/how-to-overclock-the-intel-core-i5-2500k/1

http://www.overclock.net/t/913294/step-by-step-overclocking-2500k-for-lamas

http://www.overclock.net/t/1100100/info-intel-2500k-2600k-overclocking-tips

Hope this helps


----------



## dioxholster

i have the fan pulling air through the rad as exhaust, should i kept it that way? its a corsair SP120 and i read that static pressure fan like that needs to be in push. The way i have it now is rad facing the CPU while fan exhausts.

my case fans are one intake front, and one top exhaust. the rear is the corsair h60 and i could either have it exhaust or intake (corsair recommends intake i think).


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster*
> 
> i have the fan pulling air through the rad as exhaust, should i kept it that way? its a corsair SP120 and i read that static pressure fan like that needs to be in push. The way i have it now is rad facing the CPU while fan exhausts.
> 
> my case fans are one intake front, and one top exhaust. the rear is the corsair h60 and i could either have it exhaust or intake (corsair recommends intake i think).


I generally ignore Corsair instructions and do what works best. Usually if you're using one fan I would recommend doing push instead of pull. SP fans are designed to do this. If you have the room to add a second fan, push and pull is better. I don't intake from the back of my case intake is bottom and front because heat always rises so cooler air is lower.


----------



## Xylene

I run just pull and have for a long time. I tested it versus push and it was pretty much the same. Pull makes it easier to clean because the dust is not between the fan and the rad.


----------



## Amr0d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanblandford*
> 
> Hope this helps


WOW, thank you! That helped me alot. Easy guides without wall of texts and easy to understand.

I am currently running at 4 Ghz stable according to those two prime tests. Only need to do a overnight test and then I'll try 4,3 to beat the +1 Ghz









Temps are under 50°C btw. running on quiet mode with ambient temps of 22,2 °C when running 100% with prime


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amr0d*
> 
> WOW, thank you! That helped me alot. Easy guides without wall of texts and easy to understand.
> 
> I am currently running at 4 Ghz stable according to those two prime tests. Only need to do a overnight test and then I'll try 4,3 to beat the +1 Ghz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps are under 50°C btw. running on quiet mode with ambient temps of 22,2 °C when running 100% with prime


Nice man thats great to hear









Its exactly what this community is about







. Nice temps too The h100i does a pretty good job for an AIO cooler.


----------



## Redvineal

Hello everyone. First post here with a couple questions.

I recently purchased 2 H100i and 2 H110 coolers while they were on sale. I plan to use 1 for my CPU and 1 for my GPU with a special bracket. I just need to decide which model to keep. Either will fit in my Air 540 case with no problems, so no concern there.

The H110 has a pump that is more universally accepted by GPU brackets, but comes with what I believe to be under par fans.

The H100i has a chunkier pump that I can use with only 1 GPU bracket type, and can be fitted with existing SP120 fans for aesthetics (yes, I do care about that to some degree).

With that said, I know Corsair is set to release SP140 fans in the future, which will be great for the H110. Also, the H105 was recently announced having the round pump (more universal for GPU) and a 240mm radiator.

So, here's my dilemma:

- Keep the H100i with less GPU bracket compatibility, but with support for fans I already have and can use NOW.
- Keep the H110 with more GPU bracket compatibility, but with an unknown fan future (SP140 specs haven't been released yet).
- Wait for the H105 with more GPU bracket compatibility, AND with support for fans I already have and can use NOW, but no clue when it will be available and if I can secure one before it sells out.

What would you do?

Furthermore, I've seen that the H105 uses a newer ceramic pump. What's the story on this, and should it make any difference in my decision vs. the H110 and its pump?

Lastly, I noticed the tubing is different between the H100i and H110. Any major differences there that could affect my decision?

Edit: I'm sort of OCD when it comes to consistency, so I want to keep both H100i coolers, or both H110 coolers, or order 2 H105 coolers.

Thanks!


----------



## DUpgrade

^ Honestly the 540 Air is an awesome case so I could see having a number of options available. Personally I would avoid the H105 as you already have the H110 which is a proven cooler. You probably don't know about the H55 vs H60 debates back in the day. Let's just say there's a reason the H55 sells cheap just about everywhere. I would use the H110s and I'm sure Corsair will come out with a SP140 with the rings, they listen to customers. Good luck with your build and post some pics when you're done.


----------



## Redvineal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> ^ Honestly the 540 Air is an awesome case so I could see having a number of options available. Personally I would avoid the H105 as you already have the H110 which is a proven cooler. You probably don't know about the H55 vs H60 debates back in the day. Let's just say there's a reason the H55 sells cheap just about everywhere. I would use the H110s and I'm sure Corsair will come out with a SP140 with the rings, they listen to customers. Good luck with your build and post some pics when you're done.


Thanks for the info and opinion.









Are you implying the H55 isn't so good compared to the H60 from the past debates? If so, I'm confused because the H55 has the same type of pump as the H110 you recommend.

The two main things keeping me considering the H105 are the existing SP120 fans I already own and the mention of ceramic pump, if it makes any kind of difference. And the looks of the H105 certainly don't hurt it!









The two main things making me want to keep the H110's are the proven track record, and knowing I can go with push/pull in my case. The H105's radiator may be too thick to go push/pull up top.


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redvineal*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DUpgrade*
> 
> ^ Honestly the 540 Air is an awesome case so I could see having a number of options available. Personally I would avoid the H105 as you already have the H110 which is a proven cooler. You probably don't know about the H55 vs H60 debates back in the day. Let's just say there's a reason the H55 sells cheap just about everywhere. I would use the H110s and I'm sure Corsair will come out with a SP140 with the rings, they listen to customers. Good luck with your build and post some pics when you're done.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info and opinion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you implying the H55 isn't so good compared to the H60 from the past debates? If so, I'm confused because the H55 has the same type of pump as the H110 you recommend.
> 
> The two main things keeping me considering the H105 are the existing SP120 fans I already own and the mention of ceramic pump, if it makes any kind of difference. And the looks of the H105 certainly don't hurt it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two main things making me want to keep the H110's are the proven track record, and knowing I can go with push/pull in my case. The H105's radiator may be too thick to go push/pull up top.
Click to expand...

No the H55 was nowhere as good as H60, in fact the H60 was even redesigned 2013. The block on the H110 isn't the same as H55, more like a H70. I think copper is better than the ceramic but that's just opinion. Stay strong and go with the H110s I'm sure Corsair is right around the corner with SP140 just like the SP120s magically have a PWM version now.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster*
> 
> ive changed coolers from Antec 620 to Corsair H60 (2013), here are the differences:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Antc 620 @ 1400rpm fan speed:
> 
> 
> Corsair H60 @ 1900rpm fan speed:
> 
> 
> 
> with the Antec the fan was connected to the pump and the pump was connected to the CPU header, which was at full speed in bios. Yet it still only went as far as 1400rpm for some reason and i had no control over it. For corsair the fan is seperated from pump so I could control its speed which is max 1900rpm and min is 1080rpm for when its idle as its on Automatic in bios. It takes a bit of time for it to speed up when temps get really hot, like 2 minute delay. I knew the H60 would be a downgrade for cooling so i wasnt surprised, seems like antec performed much better, i dont know what you guys think? I should probably compare them with both same fan speeds. The corsair fan is kind of loud even on low, anyone know what to replace it with? I have it as exhaust.
> 
> also i have the pump connected to the "power fan connector (PWR fan)" is that wrong?


Those temps look about right to me. The H60 isn't a higher end cooler in Corsair's lineup, but it's still pretty good. You could improve you cpu temps slightly my making it intake, but then the interior of your case might warm up a bit too.
What fan to use depends on what you're looking for. Scythe AP15 is what people seem to like the most for decent performance and noise. Same with Yate Loons. Still, there are a lot of fans out there. The Corsair fans (see my last post) are actually pretty good. You could always search through the thread for "fan" and see what people recommend. I'm a big fan of PWM fans myself. It doesn't matter which fan header you plug the pump into as long as you have control of that header disabled in BIOS so the pump is always running at max. Personally, I would recommend using a fan header that your motherboard monitors so it will generate a fan error if there's a problem with the pump.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylene*
> 
> I run just pull and have for a long time. I tested it versus push and it was pretty much the same. Pull makes it easier to clean because the dust is not between the fan and the rad.


I agree that, between push and pull you're hardly going to notice any difference at all, if any. Personally, I prefer push but that's just because I've always used push. If I had to use pull I wouldn't feel bad about it.


----------



## Snyderman34

Have they announced the release date for the H105? I'm debating whether I want to pounce on an H100i or H110, or wait for the H105.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snyderman34*
> 
> Have they announced the release date for the H105? I'm debating whether I want to pounce on an H100i or H110, or wait for the H105.


It should hit the retail shelves at the end of this month.


----------



## slowman87

Got my new rig all built using H100i, and it's great! Super silent (using SP120 Quiet Editions). Can barely even tell my PC is on!


----------



## Mergatroid

^ That's awesome. Don't be too shy to share a pic.


----------



## MedRed

Fry's has factory refurbished H100i for $69.99. I picked one up for a decommissioned rig.


----------



## Kazuhara

Hi, I currently have a Corsair H100i push setup. I was thinking of configuring it to a push pull setup. Would getting 2 SP fans for push and use the stock fans for pulling be alright?


----------



## Azuredragon1

Push-pull won't help you that much, maybe 1-3c drop at the most.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azuredragon1*
> 
> Push-pull won't help you that much, maybe 1-3c drop at the most.


1-3*C can mean quite a bit, depending on the person and the goals that person is trying to achieve....


----------



## cosmomobay

Can I be added to the club pls.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cosmomobay*
> 
> Hi guys can I join your group.
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jahmaka/media/DSCN2172.jpg.html
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jahmaka/media/DSCN2171.jpg.html
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jahmaka/media/DSCN2174.jpg.html
> 
> Asus P8Z77-v Deluxe
> Intel I7-3770K
> Crucial Ballistix mem
> 3 Asus 23" monitors SLI
> 1 Acer 27" aux monitor
> 2 EVGA GTX 780 Classified
> 1 Gigabyte GTX 460 for PhysX
> Corsair H80i
> 2 Corsair H55 for cooling the 780
> Corsair 1200i pwr supply
> 2 Samsung Pro ssd 250 for OPS and 500 for games
> 2 WD 1T HDD
> NZXT HUE for lights
> 8 cougar fans to keep everything chilled


----------



## Kazuhara

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azuredragon1*
> 
> Push-pull won't help you that much, maybe 1-3c drop at the most.


That's a pretty good temp drop by all means. However, I read some comments about the SP fans push and Stock fans Pull setup in H100i. Some mostly recommend a matched pair of fans. I want to know if anyone has tried this kind of configuration and if they had any significant increase in performance. Was also wondering how would it fair to the matched pair of SP fans.


----------



## bill4d

On an H80i, does fluid flow through the horizontal bars of the radiator? Or, does the fluid only flow through the side end cap where the hoses connect to the radiator?

The reason I ask is, I need to use new screws to custom mount my radiator and want to make sure, if they are slightly too long and poke the fins of the radiator, that no fluid would leak out.

The horizontal bars look much too thin for fluid to be running through them, but I could be wrong.

Thanks for any help.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bill4d*
> 
> On an H80i, does fluid flow through the horizontal bars of the radiator? Or, does the fluid only flow through the side end cap where the hoses connect to the radiator?
> 
> The reason I ask is, I need to use new screws to custom mount my radiator and want to make sure, if they are slightly too long and poke the fins of the radiator, that no fluid would leak out.
> 
> The horizontal bars look much too thin for fluid to be running through them, but I could be wrong.
> 
> Thanks for any help.


The water flows along side of the radiator, water does not flow through the fins so even if you poke the fins, the cooler will not leak.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> The water flows along side of the radiator, water does not flow through the fins so even if you poke the fins, the cooler will not leak.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kazuhara*
> 
> That's a pretty good temp drop by all means. However, I read some comments about the SP fans push and Stock fans Pull setup in H100i. Some mostly recommend a matched pair of fans. I want to know if anyone has tried this kind of configuration and if they had any significant increase in performance. Was also wondering how would it fair to the matched pair of SP fans.


The fan with higher static pressure should be your push fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> The water flows along side of the radiator, water does not flow through the fins so even if you poke the fins, the cooler will not leak.


Yeah, it doesn't flow _through the fins_, but it does flow through the pipes that travel through the fins.


----------



## Gereti

Allright, i tested today my H80i with different usb cable, what i installed on my motherboard I/O plate usb slot's, and same thing happened again, so what i should do now, contact on corsair?, where and how

(and i'm not going to contact now any one or anywhere with by golden 0.17mb 2G EDGE huavei E367 internet with 450MS ping)


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Allright, i tested today my H80i with different usb cable, what i installed on my motherboard I/O plate usb slot's, and same thing happened again, so what i should do now, contact on corsair?, where and how
> 
> (and i'm not going to contact now any one or anywhere with by golden 0.17mb 2G EDGE huavei E367 internet with 450MS ping)


Got to Corsair's website, and there should be a Contact or Support link....


----------



## BradleyW

I've used my H110 on socket 2011. After removing the H110, I'm struggling to dismantle to mounting system to put the product back to neutral. Any tips?


----------



## Old-AmsXXXdam

Hey!

You might be biased being the corsair hydro-club. But I have a Thermaltake Venomous-X air-cooler and wonder if a H80i would be an improvement. My main goal is noise reduction. And cooling of course. Current setup: AMD Athlon II x4/Venomous-X/Noctua 8mm fan.


----------



## UZ7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Old-AmsXXXdam*
> 
> Hey!
> 
> You might be biased being the corsair hydro-club. But I have a Thermaltake Venomous-X air-cooler and wonder if a H80i would be an improvement. My main goal is noise reduction. And cooling of course. Current setup: AMD Athlon II x4/Venomous-X/Noctua 8mm fan.


With any air cooling you'll still have some sound left but if you want significant sound reduction you would need better fans or controlling them to low rpms. Right now I have some noctuas on mine at low rpm and they have a good sound to them, not too loud but not dead silent. My bro has a dark rock pro 2 and that thing is dead silent on low rpm so it really depends on the quality/type of fans you use as well and at the speeds they run at.


----------



## Old-AmsXXXdam

Ah I never thought about that. I just need to lower the rpm for my fans. That would be a cheap way to improve thanks! (Am 36yo. and new to this pc stuff). But maybe I should upgrade to a corsair hydro anyway because my next case will be a Bitfenix Prodigy-M. And not sure if my Venomous would fit.

Now to find out what fans I got and how they are connected.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Allright, i tested today my H80i with different usb cable, what i installed on my motherboard I/O plate usb slot's, and same thing happened again, so what i should do now, contact on corsair?, where and how
> 
> (and i'm not going to contact now any one or anywhere with by golden 0.17mb 2G EDGE huavei E367 internet with 450MS ping)


Are you having problems with the H80i and Corsair Link? If so, what exactly is going on? Detection?

Edit: Nvm, I just saw your post on the other thread, It's the LED on the pump. If the USB cable did not make a difference, please submit an RMA and we'll go ahead and send you a replacement. Send me a PM as soon that you get the ticket # so i can help you out with the RMA.


----------



## cosmomobay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Are you having problems with the H80i and Corsair Link? If so, what exactly is going on? Detection?


Not meaning to hijack your post.

to the Corsair rep. I have a H80I that sometime your software doesn't see fan speed and the red and blue led doesn't work. it's about 5 months old.

thanks for your help


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cosmomobay*
> 
> Not meaning to hijack your post.
> 
> to the Corsair rep. I have a H80I that sometime your software doesn't see fan speed and the red and blue led doesn't work. it's about 5 months old.
> 
> thanks for your help


Has this been the case for 5 months? or just started happening recently? Try to unplug the USB connector from the Mobo and plug it in to a different USB header while the system is running. And btw, are you using the latest version of Corsair Link?


----------



## cosmomobay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Has this been the case for 5 months? or just started happening recently? Try to unplug the USB connector from the Mobo and plug it in to a different USB header while the system is running. And btw, are you using the latest version of Corsair Link?


About two months after, the blue stopped first, then the red. I tried that with the same results.i have the latest ver 2.5.5146.


----------



## Devildog8791

I just ordered a H100i and wanted to ask some questions. If I run the pump off a CHA_FAN header, will I still be able to run the Corsair Link software? I am going to power the case and rad fans off of two molex-powered PWM splitters attached to the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT headers (ASUS Sbertooth 990FX v1.0). Will the software pick up the information from the fans in this setup or do I need to hook the pump into the splitter as well?

I am going to use these PWM splitters.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Are you having problems with the H80i and Corsair Link? If so, what exactly is going on? Detection?
> 
> Edit: Nvm, I just saw your post on the other thread, It's the LED on the pump. If the USB cable did not make a difference, please submit an RMA and we'll go ahead and send you a replacement. Send me a PM as soon that you get the ticket # so i can help you out with the RMA.


Thanks, got this cooler from friend, brand new of cource about month ago
and it has that problem from beginning

I'll try to make that rma soon, so ican send you PM

Edit, should i be able to adjust pump speed on corsair link with this product?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog8791*
> 
> I just ordered a H100i and wanted to ask some questions. If I run the pump off a CHA_FAN header, will I still be able to run the Corsair Link software? I am going to power the case and rad fans off of two molex-powered PWM splitters attached to the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT headers (ASUS Sbertooth 990FX v1.0). Will the software pick up the information from the fans in this setup or do I need to hook the pump into the splitter as well?
> 
> I am going to use these PWM splitters.


^ Don't add the pump to the PWM splitter. You want the pump reporting all the time, and not confusing its RMP signal, or missing it entirely by adding it to a PWM splitter. I am not familiar with the PWM splitter you linked to. Most decent PWM splitters only keep one RPM signal, so they don't confuse the motherboard by having multiple RPM signals on one line. So, on a four fan PWM splitter (for example), only one fan should be reporting its RPM. The system will control all four fans, but only one reports its RPM. On crappy PWM splitters, they have all four RPM signals, and they all get added together. The motherboard cannot make sense of this, and gives you incorrect RPM readings. So, if you get a PWM splitter with all wires connected to all fans, you should cut all the RPM wires going to all the fans except for one of them. This is your "primary" fan, and will be the one reporting its RPM to the system through the splitter, which will allow the system to set all four fans to the same RPM (which shows why it's best to use all the same fans on PWM splitters so they will all run at the same speeds).

You could use your three PWM chassis fans headers for your chassis fans (or use two of them for chassis fans and one for the pump) instead of using a splitter and using the cpu fan headers to control your chassis fans.

Check the manual on page 2-25. It shows three PWM chassis fan headers, and one 3-pin header. That gives you a lot of choice for controlling chassis fans. I really don't think you need any splitters unless you are running more than three chassis fans. Even then, split them from the PWM chassis fan headers and let the cpu fan headers just control your H100i fans.

If your board supports it, make sure your BIOS is set to generate an error if the chassis fan 4 (pump) RPM goes too low (or whichever chassis fan header you plug your pump into).

I don't know if the link software monitors the chassis fan header or not. Perhaps @ Corsair Joseph can answer that.


----------



## Devildog8791

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> ^ Don't add the pump to the PWM splitter. You want the pump reporting all the time, and not confusing its RMP signal, or missing it entirely by adding it to a PWM splitter. I am not familiar with the PWM splitter you linked to. Most decent PWM splitters only keep one RPM signal, so they don't confuse the motherboard by having multiple RPM signals on one line. So, on a four fan PWM splitter (for example), only one fan should be reporting its RPM. The system will control all four fans, but only one reports its RPM. On crappy PWM splitters, they have all four RPM signals, and they all get added together. The motherboard cannot make sense of this, and gives you incorrect RPM readings. So, if you get a PWM splitter with all wires connected to all fans, you should cut all the RPM wires going to all the fans except for one of them. This is your "primary" fan, and will be the one reporting its RPM to the system through the splitter, which will allow the system to set all four fans to the same RPM (which shows why it's best to use all the same fans on PWM splitters so they will all run at the same speeds).
> 
> You could use your three PWM chassis fans headers for your chassis fans (or use two of them for chassis fans and one for the pump) instead of using a splitter and using the cpu fan headers to control your chassis fans.
> 
> Check the manual on page 2-25. It shows three PWM chassis fan headers, and one 3-pin header. That gives you a lot of choice for controlling chassis fans. I really don't think you need any splitters unless you are running more than three chassis fans. Even then, split them from the PWM chassis fan headers and let the cpu fan headers just control your H100i fans.
> 
> If your board supports it, make sure your BIOS is set to generate an error if the chassis fan 4 (pump) RPM goes too low (or whichever chassis fan header you plug your pump into).
> 
> I don't know if the link software monitors the chassis fan header or not. Perhaps @ Corsair Joseph can answer that.


Here is a picture of the splitter. It shows only one plug that has the RPM signal.



According to this picture from the manual, the CPU type headers are the only ones that have a PWM pin (if I'm seeing this correctly).



The other headers say "+5v" where the CPU headers say "PWM". This isn't the same thing, is it?


----------



## SuprCool

Quick question guys , why choose SP120 pwm quiet edition fans over SP120 pwm performance , since you can control rpms on both fans but performance ones can spin faster if you need ? They seem same but performance ones have more potential , am i right? I just bought H100i and can't decide on fans.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cosmomobay*
> 
> About two months after, the blue stopped first, then the red. I tried that with the same results.i have the latest ver 2.5.5146.


Sounds like the LED on the pump has become faulty. I'd recommend that you get it replaced via Corsair RMA.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Thanks, got this cooler from friend, brand new of cource about month ago
> and it has that problem from beginning
> 
> I'll try to make that rma soon, so ican send you PM
> 
> Edit, should i be able to adjust pump speed on corsair link with this product?


You will not be able to adjust the pump's speed in Corsair Link - It's to leave it alone and run it at max speed all the time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I don't know if the link software monitors the chassis fan header or not. Perhaps @ Corsair Joseph can answer that.


Since Corsair Link is now using CPUID engine, you will now be able to monitor different fan headers on the mobo. You can only monitor them and not control them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuprCool*
> 
> Quick question guys , why choose SP120 pwm quiet edition fans over SP120 pwm performance , since you can control rpms on both fans but performance ones can spin faster if you need ? They seem same but performance ones have more potential , am i right? I just bought H100i and can't decide on fans.


SP120 QE is mainly for system that is built for silence, where noise is one of the main concern with out compromising cooling efficiency. Highest rpm for the SP120 QE is 1450rpm where the SP120 PE is up to 2350rpm, in which you will be able to run it a higher rpm for better cooling with some extra dBA that goes with it.


----------



## cosmomobay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Sounds like the LED on the pump has become faulty. I'd recommend that you get it replaced via Corsair RMA.
> 
> Ok, thanks


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog8791*
> 
> Here is a picture of the splitter. It shows only one plug that has the RPM signal.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> According to this picture from the manual, the CPU type headers are the only ones that have a PWM pin (if I'm seeing this correctly).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other headers say "+5v" where the CPU headers say "PWM". This isn't the same thing, is it?


Three of the chassis fan headers are 4-pin. It's pretty odd that the last pin is listed as 5V (looks the same in my Sabertooth Z87 manual). If I was you I would email ASUS about this. Notice, though, that on page 3-24 in the manual it has "CHassis Q-Fan Control" which should indicate that the Chassis fans can be controlled. Looking through the manual on page 3-26 it says that you can set chassis fan profiles (just like the CPU fan profiles) Standard, Silent, Turbo and Manual (to assign detailed fan speed control parameters).

Personally, if I was you I would try the chassis fans in the chassis fan headers first and see how they work. I don't understand why they would have four-pin headers, keyed to PWM, if they are not PWM connectors. I bet they use temperature sensors on the board to control the chassis fans.

The splitter you show in your picture actually looks like a very decent splitter. That company made it correctly. Still, I wouldn't connect the pump RPM line to the PWM splitter, and I honestly think you would be better off using the chassis fan headers for the chassis fans.


----------



## wa3pnt

By putting +5V on pin 4 (PWM signal) any the PWM circuit in the PWM Fan will attempt to run the fan at 100%. Any fan connected to these 4 pin headers can be controlled by the motherboard reducing the power (voltage) on pin 2. Whether a particular PWM fan can be controlled this way is a crap shoot. Some will continue to run at 100% as long a possible, and then stop. Others will reduce speed as the voltage decreases.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## Beatwolf

So the last couple of days my case got a lot noisier. Pretty sure it´s the h100i radiator or the fans. It´s a higher pitched noise than the rest of the system which is pretty annoying, because it hasn´t been there before. Updated to 1.0.7, but didn´t help. Fans run in quiet mode. The pump is at 2259.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> So the last couple of days my case got a lot noisier. Pretty sure it´s the h100i radiator or the fans. It´s a higher pitched noise than the rest of the system which is pretty annoying, because it hasn´t been there before. Updated to 1.0.7, but didn´t help. Fans run in quiet mode. The pump is at 2259.


If something is making noise, then its either the pump or the fans - the radiator doesn't have any moving parts.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> So the last couple of days my case got a lot noisier. Pretty sure it´s the h100i radiator or the fans. It´s a higher pitched noise than the rest of the system which is pretty annoying, because it hasn´t been there before. Updated to 1.0.7, but didn´t help. Fans run in quiet mode. The pump is at 2259.


Try to disconnect both fans from the cooler's pump and see if the noise persist. Are you using the stock fans that came with the cooler? if they are stock, are those the 3pin or 4pin?


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> If something is making noise, then its either the pump or the fans - the radiator doesn't have any moving parts.


Sorry yeah the pump of course.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Try to disconnect both fans from the cooler's pump and see if the noise persist. Are you using the stock fans that came with the cooler? if they are stock, are those the 3pin or 4pin?


Disconnected the fans and still the same noise. Yes I´m using the stock 4pin fans. Noise is still there. It´s not a whine, more like a high pitched hum thats on top of the regular sounds from the case.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> Disconnected the fans and still the same noise. Yes I´m using the stock 4pin fans. Noise is still there. It´s not a whine, more like a high pitched hum thats on top of the regular sounds from the case.


Sounds like the pump to me. How long have you had this cooler now? You can always submit an RMA request have that unit replaced due to pump noise. You can start a ticket *here*.


----------



## Beatwolf

Yeah that´s what I was afraid off. It´s not very loud but it just sort of on a frequency that cuts directly into my ear, and it wasn´t there a week ago. I´ve had it for about 5 months now. I´m in Denmark though so I would probably have to go through the shop where I bought it?


----------



## Devildog8791

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Three of the chassis fan headers are 4-pin. It's pretty odd that the last pin is listed as 5V (looks the same in my Sabertooth Z87 manual). If I was you I would email ASUS about this. Notice, though, that on page 3-24 in the manual it has "CHassis Q-Fan Control" which should indicate that the Chassis fans can be controlled. Looking through the manual on page 3-26 it says that you can set chassis fan profiles (just like the CPU fan profiles) Standard, Silent, Turbo and Manual (to assign detailed fan speed control parameters).
> 
> Personally, if I was you I would try the chassis fans in the chassis fan headers first and see how they work. I don't understand why they would have four-pin headers, keyed to PWM, if they are not PWM connectors. I bet they use temperature sensors on the board to control the chassis fans.
> 
> The splitter you show in your picture actually looks like a very decent splitter. That company made it correctly. Still, I wouldn't connect the pump RPM line to the PWM splitter, and I honestly think you would be better off using the chassis fan headers for the chassis fans.


Okay, I appreciate the advice. I think I will try the chassis headers and see what happens. I might try to email ASUS like you said and see if they can shed some light on the subject.

One of the chassis fan headers is a three pin header. If I can reach that with the pump, I might try to plug it in there.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog8791*
> 
> Okay, I appreciate the advice. I think I will try the chassis headers and see what happens. I might try to email ASUS like you said and see if they can shed some light on the subject.
> 
> One of the chassis fan headers is a three pin header. If I can reach that with the pump, I might try to plug it in there.


Give it a try and see how it goes.

@wa3pnt says that the chassis fan headers control the fans by altering the 12V, and that the 5V line is just to make sure the PWM circuit in the fan is always at 100%.

PWM is pulse width modulation, and by putting 5V on the PWM line it would make it look like the pulse width is at 100% all the time making PWM fans run at 100%, but allowing all fans (4 pin and 3 pin) to be controlled by varying the 12V power line. Basically, I think they're trying to convert PWM fans into 3-pin fans so they can be controlled from the 12V line.

In theory it should work fine


----------



## kokpa

Hello, can anyone tell me what is the speed of the pump on h55? I replaced temporary for h80, beacuse second unit doesnt show rpm of the pump and fan controller doesnt work, hoping that i get reapleacment. Must I ship all parts of h80(fans,bolts) ??


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kokpa*
> 
> Hello, can anyone tell me what is the speed of the pump on h55? I replaced temporary for h80, beacuse second unit doesnt show rpm of the pump and fan controller doesnt work, hoping that i get reapleacment. Must I ship all parts of h80(fans,bolts) ??


It should be around 1700rpm.

There is no need to send back all the screws and mounting kit, just the pump/rad and the two fans, that's all we need.


----------



## Mad Pistol

Question to the Corsair rep on this thread.

I have an H110, and I've had it for about 1-2 months. For about the last month, one of my 140mm fans has been making a buzzing noise at medium speeds (both fans are hooked up to CPU PWN Fan headers on my motherboard, so speed is variable). It sounds like something is either inside the fan or the bearing may be vibrating or something.

My question is, if I submit an RMA, is there any way I can just replace the fans and not the entire unit? Unmounting the entire unit is a pain in the butt, while changing the fans is fairly painless.









EDIT: Also, you should request a rep tag on this forum.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mad Pistol*
> 
> Question to the Corsair rep on this thread.
> 
> I have an H110, and I've had it for about 1-2 months. For about the last month, one of my 140mm fans has been making a buzzing noise at medium speeds (both fans are hooked up to CPU PWN Fan headers on my motherboard, so speed is variable). It sounds like something is either inside the fan or the bearing may be vibrating or something.
> 
> My question is, if I submit an RMA, is there any way I can just replace the fans and not the entire unit? Unmounting the entire unit is a pain in the butt, while changing the fans is fairly painless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Also, you should request a rep tag on this forum.


Yep, fan alone is replaceable







just let me know what the ticket # is and I can make sure that our customer service doesn't ask for the entire unit. Totally understandable, if you don't want to unmount the whole pump/rad assembly, I don't like doing that myself









I thought I did ask for a rep tag.. I may have to ask them again.. Thanks


----------



## NorKris

I find it strange that corsair isnt going into the GPU marked and just building a bracket for a graphics card


----------



## Beatwolf

@Corsair Joseph

So being in DK, should i still request an RMA from your site or just talk with the shop where i bought it?


----------



## SuprCool

My H100i makes a strange noise when strating, though after start it's all good and fairly quite. Does it change it behavior when all the software is installed ? Should I make a video so you can check if it's ok or I have a faulty unit. Also warantee from the shop i bought it is only 6 month and on Corsair says it has 5 year warantee, how so ? I'm in Russia btw.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> I find it strange that corsair isnt going into the GPU marked and just building a bracket for a graphics card


We've been eyeing on those GPU brackets, we see a good potential in it, but I don't think that we'll get into it at the moment. We've been focusing on other products, like our HIDs and SFF cases.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> @Corsair Joseph
> 
> So being in DK, should i still request an RMA from your site or just talk with the shop where i bought it?


Check with your reseller first and see where you stand with them in terms of doing an even exchange, it is mostly likely faster dealing with them. If they give you hard time, then we can handle the RAM from our side.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuprCool*
> 
> My H100i makes a strange noise when strating, though after start it's all good and fairly quite. Does it change it behavior when all the software is installed ? Should I make a video so you can check if it's ok or I have a faulty unit. Also warantee from the shop i bought it is only 6 month and on Corsair says it has 5 year warantee, how so ? I'm in Russia btw.


Where is the noise coming from? fans or the pump? If its the fans, then those are probably running at max rpm, but once you have Corsair Link installed, you should be able to slow them down to make them quieter.

If the re seller has 6 month warranty, then they will be able to cover you if the cooler becomes faulty... at the same time, we do cover your cooler for 5 years, so after 6 months if the cooler goes haywire, you can always contact us for assistance.


----------



## xlim3y

Hey guys, I'm wanting to cover the tubing on my h100i and my 2 h90's with something other than black (I don't want to take them apart and replace the tubing)

Anyone have any ideas on making something like this happen? I saw a youtube mod where the guy wrapped a larger tube around the stock tube, but he ended up with kinks in it that didn't look all that great.

Any other ideas on this?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Beatwolf

I have an idea. Wait some years and you won´t care about something as ridiculous as the colour of your watercooling tubing.


----------



## Devildog8791

@Corsair Joseph: Will the Corsair Link software still work if none of the fans are plugged in the pump and were instead plugged into the PWM header via a PWM splitter?


----------



## xlim3y

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> I have an idea. Wait some years and you won´t care about something as ridiculous as the colour of your watercooling tubing.


Lol... K, anyone else?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> I have an idea. Wait some years and you won´t care about something as ridiculous as the colour of your watercooling tubing.


When I built my new system I even decided on a color scheme and did LED's. Its funny, cause how often do you really look at your PC. I even have a window and its not like I am going ohhhhhhhhhh pretty colors.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> I find it strange that corsair isnt going into the GPU marked and just building a bracket for a graphics card


I agree 100%. I have an H100 cooling my CPU. If I could get a bracket from Corsair that would fit one of their coolers, and if they managed to make sure said bracket would fit between two cards mounted at the standard distance in CFX or SLI, I would purchase two of them plus the coolerst. I would be interested in mounting a couple of 120mm rads and using them to cool my hd6970 cards. I'm sure that many people with single cards would be even more interested.

Or, maybe make some GPU cooling AIO water coolers. Just remember to keep the prices reasonable.

On another note I almost forgot to mention I picked up a couple of Corsair SP120 High Performance Edition PWM fans to use on my H100. I was using two Scythe Slipstream 1900 RPM 110 CFM fans that were case fans. There is no static pressure available for them, and they are about three years old. I've always thought they were pretty good based on how much heat they would pump out of the H100 rad under heavy load.
The Scythe fans would rev all the way up to the rated 1900 RPM or higher when running Prime 95. The Corsair fans, which are rated at 2350 RPM will only hit 2100 RPM when plugged into the motherboard and used on "turbo" setting in the bios (or set to be at 100% all the time).

I've done some Prime 95 tests over the last two days, and I have not noticed any significant temperature difference. Both were mounted in the same way, in the same orientation. They seem about the same noise level. Overall I think they're OK fans, but I think the Scythe fans were as good. Neither is what I would call quiet at full speed, but both are pretty good when controlled by the motherboard.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog8791*
> 
> @Corsair Joseph: Will the Corsair Link software still work if none of the fans are plugged in the pump and were instead plugged into the PWM header via a PWM splitter?


Nope, it won't control them....The software doesn't even acknowledge the other 5 fans in my PC....


----------



## cosmomobay

Guys here is pictures of my modified H55 on my 780 classy. they were first mod for my 680 OC.





I had to file the ends off the tabs to make the pump fit. I wanted to use the plate because it helps a lot with cooling.If you don't use the plate the pump will fit the board.




Then I had to file the plate on the pump down some, now it all fit.



The pump bracket redrilled for the screws to fit. I cut the ends off don't need. I had to use plastic spacer to raise the screws up so everything would be tight..



I use the stock fans for cooling.


I use the stock nuts from the cooler to hold the pump in place, then used one to hold the top fan.



Installed. the bottom card is a 460 OC for Phyx. So there are two 780 classy. My no load temp is 27 degs on top card because of two monitors and bottom temp is 25 degs. With load and OC bios my max temp is about 60 degs.



Installed. this is my old setup. I move the top card cooler to the top on the case with the CPU cooler, but the other card remain the same place. I had too many intake , I had to put a exhaust fan at the back and two on the door. everthing is nice and cool now. My CPU OC to 5.0 temo ic 32 degs at idle and about 48 with load.


----------



## SuprCool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Where is the noise coming from? fans or the pump? If its the fans, then those are probably running at max rpm, but once you have Corsair Link installed, you should be able to slow them down to make them quieter.
> 
> If the re seller has 6 month warranty, then they will be able to cover you if the cooler becomes faulty... at the same time, we do cover your cooler for 5 years, so after 6 months if the cooler goes haywire, you can always contact us for assistance.


I'll make a video for clear understanding but it seems that the pump and fans work fine, it's just the start up thing. I though found a much more disturbing problem, front USB panel on 350d doesnt work.
My motherboard has all the drivers, USB 3 panel in BIOS is enabled and Hardware monitor feature on my MSI Z87M Gaming shows this panel and shows that nothing is plugged. What else I can do myself to test it ?

update
I replugged USB 3. Disabled USB 3 feature in BIOS, then restarted Windows with enabling it again and it works now, guess I just had to disable/enable it.


----------



## NorKris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cosmomobay*
> 
> Guys here is pictures of my modified H55 on my 780 classy. they were first mod for my 680 OC.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to file the ends off the tabs to make the pump fit. I wanted to use the plate because it helps a lot with cooling.If you don't use the plate the pump will fit the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I had to file the plate on the pump down some, now it all fit.
> 
> 
> 
> The pump bracket redrilled for the screws to fit. I cut the ends off don't need. I had to use plastic spacer to raise the screws up so everything would be tight..
> 
> 
> 
> I use the stock fans for cooling.
> 
> 
> I use the stock nuts from the cooler to hold the pump in place, then used one to hold the top fan.
> 
> 
> 
> Installed. the bottom card is a 460 OC for Phyx. So there are two 780 classy. My no load temp is 27 degs on top card because of two monitors and bottom temp is 25 degs. With load and OC bios my max temp is about 60 degs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Installed. this is my old setup. I move the top card cooler to the top on the case with the CPU cooler, but the other card remain the same place. I had too many intake , I had to put a exhaust fan at the back and two on the door. everthing is nice and cool now. My CPU OC to 5.0 temo ic 32 degs at idle and about 48 with load.


Nice gpu cooler mod! dont under stand why 2 fans on one card but still rly cool


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> When I built my new system I even decided on a color scheme and did LED's. Its funny, cause how often do you really look at your PC. I even have a window and its not like I am going ohhhhhhhhhh pretty colors.


Exactly.


----------



## Devildog8791

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Nope, it won't control them....The software doesn't even acknowledge the other 5 fans in my PC....


Okay, thanks. I was kind of thinking that was the way it had to be hooked up. That kind of sucks because I have some Cooler Master Jetflo 120's that I am going to use with the H100i and I've seen reports (not many) that the Jetflos were too much for the pump and I don't want to mess that up.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cosmomobay*
> 
> Guys here is pictures of my modified H55 on my 780 classy. they were first mod for my 680 OC.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to file the ends off the tabs to make the pump fit. I wanted to use the plate because it helps a lot with cooling.If you don't use the plate the pump will fit the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I had to file the plate on the pump down some, now it all fit.
> 
> 
> 
> The pump bracket redrilled for the screws to fit. I cut the ends off don't need. I had to use plastic spacer to raise the screws up so everything would be tight..
> 
> 
> 
> I use the stock fans for cooling.
> 
> 
> I use the stock nuts from the cooler to hold the pump in place, then used one to hold the top fan.
> 
> 
> 
> Installed. the bottom card is a 460 OC for Phyx. So there are two 780 classy. My no load temp is 27 degs on top card because of two monitors and bottom temp is 25 degs. With load and OC bios my max temp is about 60 degs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Installed. this is my old setup. I move the top card cooler to the top on the case with the CPU cooler, but the other card remain the same place. I had too many intake , I had to put a exhaust fan at the back and two on the door. everthing is nice and cool now. My CPU OC to 5.0 temo ic 32 degs at idle and about 48 with load.


Nice job man. Impressive oc on an ivybridge i7 using an H80. Good job.


----------



## cosmomobay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> Nice gpu cooler mod! dont under stand why 2 fans on one card but still rly cool


Thanks. the back plate also get hot from the card and since it has heat transfer tape on it and I didn't want to separate the fans, I would have to cut the wires and for warranty reason. So I mount them together, can't prove it but I am sure it help with cooling.


----------



## cosmomobay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Nice job man. Impressive oc on an ivybridge i7 using an H80. Good job.


Thanks, lots of patience.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog8791*
> 
> Okay, thanks. I was kind of thinking that was the way it had to be hooked up. That kind of sucks because I have some Cooler Master Jetflo 120's that I am going to use with the H100i and I've seen reports (not many) that the Jetflos were too much for the pump and I don't want to mess that up.


You should be able to monitor fan rpm, but in terms of controlling rpm on a third party fans that are connected to the pump, it will be a hit and miss. Some brands you are able to control and some you can't. As much as we wanted to release an official list of fans that are guaranteed to work, it's just next to impossible at this point due to very limited resources.

The fan ports on the pump are rated up to 4amps combined. So as long that you don't go over that, then you're good.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> You should be able to monitor fan rpm, but in terms of controlling rpm on a third party fans that are connected to the pump, it will be a hit and miss. Some brands you are able to control and some you can't. As much as we wanted to release an official list of fans that are guaranteed to work, it's just next to impossible at this point due to very limited resources.
> 
> The fan ports on the pump are rated up to 4amps combined. So as long that you don't go over that, then you're good.


The 120mm Aerocool Shark fans can be controlled by the H100i, as a heads-up....


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> The 120mm Aerocool Shark fans can be controlled by the H100i, as a heads-up....


Cool thanks Blaze









I thought there is already a thread here where members would provide feedback on non Corsair fans that works with C Link and fans that doesn't. If there is none, then maybe we should start one


----------



## wa3pnt

Here's a start for you. I initiated this thread on the Corsair Forum to do just that.

It did not get very much input.

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=123246

RodeoGeorge


----------



## Devildog8791

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> You should be able to monitor fan rpm, but in terms of controlling rpm on a third party fans that are connected to the pump, it will be a hit and miss. Some brands you are able to control and some you can't. As much as we wanted to release an official list of fans that are guaranteed to work, it's just next to impossible at this point due to very limited resources.
> 
> The fan ports on the pump are rated up to 4amps combined. So as long that you don't go over that, then you're good.


Okay, thanks. I'm not going to chance it with the Jetflo's. I will hook them up with a PWM splitter that is powered by the power supply and control things from the UEFI.

Thanks for the reply.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wa3pnt*
> 
> Here's a start for you. I initiated this thread on the Corsair Forum to do just that.
> 
> It did not get very much input.
> 
> http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=123246
> 
> RodeoGeorge


I didn't even know our forum has that thread. Maybe I could use that list for starters and then add more later. I probably need to add more of the Corsair fans then I'll start a thread here, and hopefully we get more input from other C Link user here. It'd be beneficial to those who are planning to use non Corsair fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog8791*
> 
> Okay, thanks. I'm not going to chance it with the Jetflo's. I will hook them up with a PWM splitter that is powered by the power supply and control things from the UEFI.
> 
> Thanks for the reply.


Either way, what ever set up that works for you, by all means go for it.

No problem at all


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> I didn't even know our forum has that thread. Maybe I could use that list for starters and then add more later. I probably need to add more of the Corsair fans then I'll start a thread here, and hopefully we get more input from other C Link user here. It'd be beneficial to those who are planning to use non Corsair fans.
> Either way, what ever set up that works for you, by all means go for it.
> 
> No problem at all


I've got two of the Phobya NB E-loops (red) 1650 rpm max and theyre running fine off the link software currently on the quiet profile referencing the cpu temp.


----------



## Lukas026

Hello there

I will be getting H100i cooler in next few days and I have 4 questions before using it:

1) I am planning to use 2x Noctua NF-F12s for the radiator cooling. Can I plug them directly to mobo fan headers (and control via BIOS) instead of fan plugs in pumo unit itself ? Will the pump and the whole unit still work ?

2) Is it enough to plug just the SATA power cable and 3pin cable which are coming from the pump ? Or it is also a "must" to plug the USB Corsair link cable ?

3) Can I plug the 3pin from pump unit to any fan header on my mobo or is it necessery to plug it to CPU fan header ? I mean can I plug it to SYS_FAN1 instead of CPU_FAN ?

4) Can I control the pump RPM (flow) via BIOS if it is plugged with 3pin cable to my mobo or it is just to "show" RPM (flow) and nothing more ?

Thank you for your answers. Much appreciated.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukas026*
> 
> Hello there
> 
> I will be getting H100i cooler in next few days and I have 4 questions before using it:
> 
> 1) I am planning to use 2x Noctua NF-F12s for the radiator cooling. Can I plug them directly to mobo fan headers (and control via BIOS) instead of fan plugs in pumo unit itself ? Will the pump and the whole unit still work ?
> 
> 2) Is it enough to plug just the SATA power cable and 3pin cable which are coming from the pump ? Or it is also a "must" to plug the USB Corsair link cable ?
> 
> 3) Can I plug the 3pin from pump unit to any fan header on my mobo or is it necessery to plug it to CPU fan header ? I mean can I plug it to SYS_FAN1 instead of CPU_FAN ?
> 
> 4) Can I control the pump RPM (flow) via BIOS if it is plugged with 3pin cable to my mobo or it is just to "show" RPM (flow) and nothing more ?
> 
> Thank you for your answers. Much appreciated.


You can run fans off of headers, sure, then you will have to see if they can be controlled by the BIOS. I would plug the 3 prong to the CPU1 header.


----------



## wa3pnt

The Noctua PWM Fans work well with the H100i, and can be controlled by the H100i if plugged into the Pump using the Wye cable supplied. I have not tried the Noctua 3-pin Fans on the H100i. This thread lists SOME of the Fans that have been proven to work with the H100i.

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=123246

You do not need to use the USB connection on the H100i unless you want to control the Fans using the Corsair LINK program.

There is a default profile in the Pump that will control the Fan speed based on the temperature of the H100i Pump.

The 3-pin from the Pump should be plugged into the main CPU Fan header on the motherboard. This ensures that the system shuts down should the Pump fail.

The H100i System is designed for the Pump to run at a constant 2200 RPM. You cannot control the Pump Speed unless you reduce the voltage being supplied to the Pump via the SATA Power Connector. This is NOT recommended, and will degrade System operation.

Here is a link to the Corsair Forum (Cooling Section) that contains answers to all your questions, although they are spread throughout the Cooling Threads.

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/forumdisplay.php?f=155

RodeoGeorge


----------



## Lukas026

thank you for the answers...

a though about the fan and 3pin fan plug - here is my situation:

I own ASUS ROG Maximus VI Extreme and there is one catch with fan headers - CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT headers can be set to run from 40% to 100%. Other fan headers like CHA_FAN 1-3 and OPT_FAN 1-3 can be set from 60% to 100%.

That got me thinking and I ended up with plugging all my fans via y-split cables just to CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT header so I can run my fans at 40% when idle (dead silent) and 100% when temp reaches lets say 65C.

And now when I bough H100i I need to decide where to plug the 3 pin from pump. As you see I already have my CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT used and best way for me would be to plug it to one of my CHA_FAN or OPT_FAN headers. And as you said before, pump RPM is already set and cant be controlled, so it doesnt make a difference at all.

You guys think I can do it like this ?

Thank you for the answers.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukas026*
> 
> thank you for the answers...
> 
> a though about the fan and 3pin fan plug - here is my situation:
> 
> I own ASUS ROG Maximus VI Extreme and there is one catch with fan headers - CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT headers can be set to run from 40% to 100%. Other fan headers like CHA_FAN 1-3 and OPT_FAN 1-3 can be set from 60% to 100%.
> 
> That got me thinking and I ended up with plugging all my fans via y-split cables just to CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT header so I can run my fans at 40% when idle (dead silent) and 100% when temp reaches lets say 65C.
> 
> And now when I bough H100i I need to decide where to plug the 3 pin from pump. As you see I already have my CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT used and best way for me would be to plug it to one of my CHA_FAN or OPT_FAN headers. And as you said before, pump RPM is already set and cant be controlled, so it doesnt make a difference at all.
> 
> You guys think I can do it like this ?
> 
> Thank you for the answers.


You could do it that way, but then your PC won't power down if the pump fails....So you'd need to decide which is more important to you: the silence of your PC, or the safety of your CPU....


----------



## wa3pnt

The problem with plugging the Pump 3-pin into a normal fan header is that should the Pump fail, it will not shut down the computer and you risk the possibility of overheating your CPU.

There are Fan Wyes available that provide power to numerous fans via a power supply molex or SATA connection, and also have a plug that can be placed on the Opt CPU Fan Header to control the fan speeds. That way you can control all the fans with the Opt CPU Header and not overload the current capabilities of the Opt CPU Fan output.

Here are several options to connect multiple PWM fans to a single CPU Fan Header:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_451&products_id=34873

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_451&products_id=34874

http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...e=product_info&cPath=34_451&products_id=34874

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_451&products_id=38706

RodeoGeorge


----------



## Lukas026

ok thanks will think about it one more time


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukas026*
> 
> thank you for the answers...
> 
> a though about the fan and 3pin fan plug - here is my situation:
> 
> I own ASUS ROG Maximus VI Extreme and there is one catch with fan headers - CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT headers can be set to run from 40% to 100%. Other fan headers like CHA_FAN 1-3 and OPT_FAN 1-3 can be set from 60% to 100%.
> 
> That got me thinking and I ended up with plugging all my fans via y-split cables just to CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT header so I can run my fans at 40% when idle (dead silent) and 100% when temp reaches lets say 65C.
> 
> And now when I bough H100i I need to decide where to plug the 3 pin from pump. As you see I already have my CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT used and best way for me would be to plug it to one of my CHA_FAN or OPT_FAN headers. And as you said before, pump RPM is already set and cant be controlled, so it doesnt make a difference at all.
> 
> You guys think I can do it like this ?
> 
> Thank you for the answers.


Literally, go back about 10 pages in this thread and you will read all the same questions and the answers. You can plug the pump RPM line in anywhere you like, but it's best to plug it into a fan header that can at least monitor the rpm so you or the computer or both of you know if there is a problem. Since you're using an ASUS board you should at least have the option to monitor a chassis fan header, and one or more of them may even have an error threshold just the the cpu fan headers do. Since pwm y-cables only connect the rpm line of one fan, it would not be a good idea to plug a pump into one.

The pump rpm connector is there as a safety line against the chance you have a pump failure.


----------



## Lukas026

great. thanks for the info


----------



## Xylene

Corsair sent me a brand new H100i as a replacement for my H100 with a build up issue (http://www.overclock.net/t/612436/official-corsair-hydro-series-club/24600#post_21487494) even though I opened it to inspect the issue. I was given the option by the hardware rep here to have it replaced with something else from their line up beings I already bought a new H100i thinking they wouldn't accept an RMA for mine, but they received my defective unit and immediately shipped out another (which I can't fit in any of my other rigs, I was going to ask for an H80i instead). At least they stood by their product which is great and completely unexpected considering I opened it. By no means is this a knock to Corsair, they are awesome.


----------



## UZ7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylene*
> 
> Corsair sent me a brand new H100i as a replacement for my H100 with a build up issue (http://www.overclock.net/t/612436/official-corsair-hydro-series-club/24600#post_21487494) even though I opened it to inspect the issue. I was given the option by the hardware rep here to have it replaced with something else from their line up beings I already bought a new H100i thinking they wouldn't accept an RMA for mine, but they received my defective unit and immediately shipped out another (which I can't fit in any of my other rigs, I was going to ask for an H80i instead). At least they stood by their product which is great and completely unexpected considering I opened it. By no means is this a knock to Corsair, they are awesome.


Well in that case let's trade









Just got my 350D (downsized from 650D..) love the case but I think a 2 rad would look good in it. Gotta figure out a better route for airflow.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## Mad Pistol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylene*
> 
> Corsair sent me a brand new H100i as a replacement for my H100 with a build up issue (http://www.overclock.net/t/612436/official-corsair-hydro-series-club/24600#post_21487494) even though I opened it to inspect the issue. I was given the option by the hardware rep here to have it replaced with something else from their line up beings I already bought a new H100i thinking they wouldn't accept an RMA for mine, but they received my defective unit and immediately shipped out another (which I can't fit in any of my other rigs, I was going to ask for an H80i instead). At least they stood by their product which is great and completely unexpected considering I opened it. By no means is this a knock to Corsair, they are awesome.


That's part of the reason I keep giving Corsair my business. Their customer support is second to none, and as long as that commitment remains, I will continue to be one of their customers.


----------



## UZ7

Probably already answered but anyone else not able to save settings on the latest beta corsair link?

I changed my LED to red and it goes back to white after reboot (and settings are still red).

I changed my fan curve profile and its didnt save (saved profile already, reloading didnt do anything).


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylene*
> 
> Corsair sent me a brand new H100i as a replacement for my H100 with a build up issue (http://www.overclock.net/t/612436/official-corsair-hydro-series-club/24600#post_21487494) even though I opened it to inspect the issue. I was given the option by the hardware rep here to have it replaced with something else from their line up beings I already bought a new H100i thinking they wouldn't accept an RMA for mine, but they received my defective unit and immediately shipped out another (which I can't fit in any of my other rigs, I was going to ask for an H80i instead). At least they stood by their product which is great and completely unexpected considering I opened it. By no means is this a knock to Corsair, they are awesome.


That's great man. Glad it worked out so well for you.
I have to say that if they refused to replace it due to it being taken apart, I wouldn't have blamed them, but that they did is real good on them. Congrats....


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UZ7*
> 
> Probably already answered but anyone else not able to save settings on the latest beta corsair link?
> 
> I changed my LED to red and it goes back to white after reboot (and settings are still red).
> 
> I changed my fan curve profile and its didnt save (saved profile already, reloading didnt do anything).


Maybe it needs a firmware update? Or maybe go back to the previous stable release....I'm using version 2.3.4816 with no issues....


----------



## Xylene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UZ7*
> 
> Probably already answered but anyone else not able to save settings on the latest beta corsair link?
> 
> I changed my LED to red and it goes back to white after reboot (and settings are still red).
> 
> I changed my fan curve profile and its didnt save (saved profile already, reloading didnt do anything).


I forget which beta I am using, but it's one of them that'll work with Windows 8. For a while it worked fine. I set the LED to red, but now since last week, it's pink. I can sometimes fiddle with the color settings and get it back to red, but it never sticks after a shutdown and goes back to pink even with the profile saved. I tried other colors too, they all seem to have white added to them. My settings also reflect the correct color in Corsair Link, but don't match the actual color of the LED. I am not sure if a Windows update broke this or what.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> That's great man. Glad it worked out so well for you.
> I have to say that if they refused to replace it due to it being taken apart, I wouldn't have blamed them, but that they did is real good on them. Congrats....


I really didn't expect them to. I bought a new H100i because I didn't want to wait for an RMA (and really just wanted to upgrade to the H100i anyway) and had no intentions of RMA'ing it, so I decided to take it apart just to see what the hell happened to it. For S&G's, I decided to contact Corsair George just to show Corsair what happened to it, and he immediately offered to replace the unit and had another Corsair employee set up an RMA for me.


----------



## UZ7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Maybe it needs a firmware update? Or maybe go back to the previous stable release....I'm using version 2.3.4816 with no issues....


Yeah may be, with the latest beta that works with win 8.1 it automatically updated my firmware from 1.05 to 1.07.


----------



## nathanblandford

U
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylene*
> 
> I forget which beta I am using, but it's one of them that'll work with Windows 8. For a while it worked fine. I set the LED to red, but now since last week, it's pink. I can sometimes fiddle with the color settings and get it back to red, but it never sticks after a shutdown and goes back to pink even with the profile saved. I tried other colors too, they all seem to have white added to them. My settings also reflect the correct color in Corsair Link, but don't match the actual color of the LED. I am not sure if a Windows update broke this or what.
> I really didn't expect them to. I bought a new H100i because I didn't want to wait for an RMA (and really just wanted to upgrade to the H100i anyway) and had no intentions of RMA'ing it, so I decided to take it apart just to see what the hell happened to it. For S&G's, I decided to contact Corsair George just to show Corsair what happened to it, and he immediately offered to replace the unit and had another Corsair employee set up an RMA for me.


Yeah im running beta windows 8.1 link release and mine does the same thing. Only with my h100i my link commander and leds doesnt do it.


----------



## mAs81

Hey guys,I own a Corsair H75 with 2 Corsair SP 120mm Quiet edition on Push/Pull configuration..Can I join the club too







??
Just checked the list sheet and apparently I'm the only one??????


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mad Pistol*
> 
> That's part of the reason I keep giving Corsair my business. Their customer support is second to none, and as long as that commitment remains, I will continue to be one of their customers.


It's always refreshing to see a post like this from time to time









We'll always do our best to make sure that our level of support is second to none








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UZ7*
> 
> Probably already answered but anyone else not able to save settings on the latest beta corsair link?
> 
> I changed my LED to red and it goes back to white after reboot (and settings are still red).
> 
> I changed my fan curve profile and its didnt save (saved profile already, reloading didnt do anything).


After saving the profile you created, try to shut the system down and move the USB connector to a different USB header on your mobo. Turn it back on and see if the profile that you saves last would load properly.


----------



## UZ7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> It's always refreshing to see a post like this from time to time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We'll always do our best to make sure that our level of support is second to none
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After saving the profile you created, try to shut the system down and move the USB connector to a different USB header on your mobo. Turn it back on and see if the profile that you saves last would load properly.






Red LED saved, shut down, moved USB header, rebooted and it came back like that.

The color isn't "White" but more pink.

Same thing happens without moving the USB header, every reboot will come back to that.

Using Corsair Link 2.5.5145 on Windows 8.1 Pro 64-bit.

I have to click on temperature then back to normal for the program to actually switch colors.


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UZ7*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Red LED saved, shut down, moved USB header, rebooted and it came back like that.
> 
> The color isn't "White" but more pink.
> 
> Same thing happens without moving the USB header, every reboot will come back to that.
> 
> Using Corsair Link 2.5.5145 on Windows 8.1 Pro 64-bit.
> 
> I have to click on temperature then back to normal for the program to actually switch colors.


mine is doing the exact same thing and same colour too. I have tried the same also.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Does it stay pink even after changing the LED color to red? or just pink no matter what you do in C Link?

Also, is it only with the Red color? what about blue and green?

I have a feeling that it's the LED itself or the actual controller in the pump that regulate the color variations.


----------



## UZ7

Rebooted with Red LED last


Rebooted with Green LED last


Alright after tinkering a few I found that moving the sliders for a while will eventually get you the colors you want (without having to switch to Cycling or Temperature). If you do switch it would be instant change. Also found out that after shutting down it will come back to white with a hint of your previous color (last two pic, blue did the same but not pictured above).


----------



## UZ7

Sorry for the low quality recorded this with my phone lol

Tested Red, Green, Blue LED
Shut down
Shows up Pink
Went back to Corsair Link
Cycled through colors

There are times when cycling to Red only comes up as Yellow till I move the slider a few times.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Video is good. It clearly shows the LED color after a reboot, in which it should be solid red and not a washed out red. Has this been the case ever since? Did you have the same issue with the previous version of Corsair Link?

If not too much to ask, do you mind trying using a *Mini Type B to Type A USB cable*?

If the pump LED still loads the pinkish color even after using that USB cable, then that would suggest that the LED on pump is the culprit.


----------



## UZ7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Video is good. It clearly shows the LED color after a reboot, in which it should be solid red and not a washed out red. Has this been the case ever since? Did you have the same issue with the previous version of Corsair Link?
> 
> If not too much to ask, do you mind trying using a *Mini Type B to Type A USB cable*?
> 
> If the pump LED still loads the pinkish color even after using that USB cable, then that would suggest that the LED on pump is the culprit.


Alright after a few testings heres what I've gathered.
Rebooting = Set color stays [RED + Reboot = RED]
Cold Boot (power on and off) = Initial start white -> white + last color (red + white = pink).

I tried using USB non header and its still the same, also tried Corsair Link 2.4.5110.

Reason why I didnt see this before is I had a different setup with my 650D case and kept everything regular setting (white LED) so it would reboot as white, now when I moved to 350D I figured I should go red since I added a red led strip so I changed the colors to red. But still the same with the USB cord and going to a different Corsair Link version.


----------



## I Am The Stig

I'm having an issue with my H80i. I had my LED set to white but for the past few months its been stuck on red, regardless if I change it in the slider settings or not. My temps are fine so I dont think its a malfunction. Any way I can fix this?

Also, it doesn't change color at all, it's just stuck on red.


----------



## UZ7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I Am The Stig*
> 
> I'm having an issue with my H80i. I had my LED set to white but for the past few months its been stuck on red, regardless if I change it in the slider settings or not. My temps are fine so I dont think its a malfunction. Any way I can fix this?
> 
> Also, it doesn't change color at all, it's just stuck on red.


Haha maybe we should trade then! jk jk


----------



## I Am The Stig

Haha well it isn't like its dangerous to my processor or anything, its just kinda annoying when my card and mobo's LEDs are blue and I just have a red thing there.

If the RMA process is easy I might just do that.


----------



## UZ7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I Am The Stig*
> 
> Haha well it isn't like its dangerous to my processor or anything, its just kinda annoying when my card and mobo's LEDs are blue and I just have a red thing there.
> 
> If the RMA process is easy I might just do that.


Yeah like I mentioned in my previous post I didn't really pay attention to it much because I had a different setup, now that I'm all "red" themed, every time I boot from shut down I have to manually set it back, not gonna kill me but kinda annoying


----------



## UZ7

Alright I think I fixed it, at least oh my H80i:

1. Reverted back to 2.4.5110.
2. Flashed 1.05 firmware.
3. Set Red LED.
4. Rebooted = Red (just to test)
5. Shut down
6. Cold boot, the light starts off as off (as opposed to white on 1.07). Then it goes to Red... Red only not white + red = pink








7. Updated back to 2.5.5145

TL;DR the culprit was the firmware 1.07, reverted back to 1.05.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

That's good to hear that you got the Red working.. now that you have 1.05 FW, hows that working out with the C Link version 2.5.5145? Any issues in terms of fan curve profiles? Are the profiles loading accordingly during cold boot and soft boot?


----------



## UZ7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> That's good to hear that you got the Red working.. now that you have 1.05 FW, hows that working out with the C Link version 2.5.5145? Any issues in terms of fan curve profiles? Are the profiles loading accordingly during cold boot and soft boot?


Well 2.5.5145 doesn't detect the H80i now so I had to revert back to the older version, uninstalled/reinstalled a few times and still the same, the older one detecting it.

As for the old version of CLink it saves it, it keeps it on there but doesnt really work. I set it to go 1,300rpm when the CPU got close to 70C and turned on a stress test program and the fans stayed at 7xx rpm.


----------



## one4hope




----------



## Xylene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UZ7*
> 
> Alright I think I fixed it, at least oh my H80i:
> 
> 1. Reverted back to 2.4.5110.
> 2. Flashed 1.05 firmware.
> 3. Set Red LED.
> 4. Rebooted = Red (just to test)
> 5. Shut down
> 6. Cold boot, the light starts off as off (as opposed to white on 1.07). Then it goes to Red... Red only not white + red = pink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 7. Updated back to 2.5.5145
> 
> TL;DR the culprit was the firmware 1.07, reverted back to 1.05.


I don't know what firmware I have on mine because I am not on that box right now, but it was whatever I had to upgrade it to so it would work in the version of Corsair Link for Windows 8. It worked fine for a while. Sometime later I upgraded to Windows 8.1. I can't remember how long after I upgraded to Windows 8.1 it started, but it wasn't immediate. I haven't touched the firmware since that initial upgrade out of the box. I am not 100% convinced it's the firmware because mine worked right on whatever firmware I'm on for a while.


----------



## UZ7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylene*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *UZ7*
> 
> Alright I think I fixed it, at least oh my H80i:
> 
> 1. Reverted back to 2.4.5110.
> 2. Flashed 1.05 firmware.
> 3. Set Red LED.
> 4. Rebooted = Red (just to test)
> 5. Shut down
> 6. Cold boot, the light starts off as off (as opposed to white on 1.07). Then it goes to Red... Red only not white + red = pink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 7. Updated back to 2.5.5145
> 
> TL;DR the culprit was the firmware 1.07, reverted back to 1.05.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know what firmware I have on mine because I am not on that box right now, but it was whatever I had to upgrade it to so it would work in the version of Corsair Link for Windows 8. It worked fine for a while. Sometime later I upgraded to Windows 8.1. I can't remember how long after I upgraded to Windows 8.1 it started, but it wasn't immediate. I haven't touched the firmware since that initial upgrade out of the box. I am not 100% convinced it's the firmware because mine worked right on whatever firmware I'm on for a while.
Click to expand...

Well it could just be my cooler but I've had no problems using the h80i, corsair link and windows 8.1 on 1.05. I had 8.1 since day one of release and my h80i came with 1.05 so I never bothered changing it when 1.07 notes said only update if you ha e problems. When I saw that the new corsair link had native 8.1 support I was like might as well. I clicked fast and pressed OK on update so it updated it to the latest firmware. It worked fine as I didn't pay attention to anything else till I started to play with custom curve and led light.

I've noticed on boot:
1.05 = off.. few seconds later = red
1.07 = white.. few seconds later = pink

1.05 the fan curve stuck but never worked
1.07 the fan curve never saved

So it could just be my setup.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UZ7*
> 
> Well it could just be my cooler but I've had no problems using the h80i, corsair link and windows 8.1 on 1.05. I had 8.1 since day one of release and my h80i came with 1.05 so I never bothered changing it when 1.07 notes said only update if you ha e problems. When I saw that the new corsair link had native 8.1 support I was like might as well. I clicked fast and pressed OK on update so it updated it to the latest firmware. It worked fine as I didn't pay attention to anything else till I started to play with custom curve and led light.
> 
> I've noticed on boot:
> 1.05 = off.. few seconds later = red
> 1.07 = white.. few seconds later = pink
> 
> 1.05 the fan curve stuck but never worked
> 1.07 the fan curve never saved
> 
> So it could just be my setup.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


In regards to the fan curve: The temps that the link software is referring to, are the coolant temps - not the CPU temps....

This is the curve I'm using on mine, and the fans ramp up and slow down just fine....I'm using 4 of the stock H100i fans....


----------



## UZ7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> In regards to the fan curve: The temps that the link software is referring to, are the coolant temps - not the CPU temps....


In that regards its useless? cause I put max fan on all the curves and it didn't even change, I stressed test the CPU, went up to 70-75C and didn't even change from 700rpm.

Right now I launched Corsair Link and its not even showing my fan's rpm anymore.

Honestly I'm not going to bother with it lol, I'll just keep the fans at 40% and call it a day. I may just get a different cooler in the process.







but hey on the other hand the red led sticks


----------



## NKrader

should be getting my replacement h80i soon. the first one decided to spray water all over when it was new..


----------



## UZ7

lol, I told myself I was just going to leave it alone.. guess that itch got to me..

Anyway, hoping that it would just be a software/firmware glitch I uninstalled/reinstalled different CL versions like 5-6 times .. haha, flash/reflashed firmware about 2-3 times. So it seemed the fan curve is fine where its at, maybe the uninstalling/reinstalling of CL cleaned up something but fan curves stick somewhat.

As for the RED led it still lingers with 1.07, flashed 1.05 its fine, flashed 1.07 it has the same thing like I mentioned before with starting up white then going to pink (when red is applied). I'll go back to 1.05 for now and the older CL, even though sometimes when I launch it the fan rpms doesnt show.


----------



## NKrader

the fan curves on h80i only go up to 4000rpm?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UZ7*
> 
> In that regards its useless? cause I put max fan on all the curves and it didn't even change, I stressed test the CPU, went up to 70-75C and didn't even change from 700rpm.
> 
> Right now I launched Corsair Link and its not even showing my fan's rpm anymore.
> 
> Honestly I'm not going to bother with it lol, I'll just keep the fans at 40% and call it a day. I may just get a different cooler in the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but hey on the other hand the red led sticks


Not necessarily useless, but the temps do need to be set differently....The highest temp I ever saw on mine was like 33*C, so I set the top of my fan curve a little above that....And I did the opposite for the lower end of the curve....


----------



## HisXlency

My H100i at startup sounds like its grinding for about a minute and then quickly becomes quiet. it never did this before, am I to assume there is an issue or is the prime occurring?


----------



## UZ7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Not necessarily useless, but the temps do need to be set differently....The highest temp I ever saw on mine was like 33*C, so I set the top of my fan curve a little above that....And I did the opposite for the lower end of the curve....


Yeah after it started working (after countless re-installations) its not as useless as it was


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UZ7*
> 
> Yeah after it started working (after countless re-installations) its not as useless as it was


I posted the settings that I put mine at a couple pages back, that might work out for you....Though, I'm using 4 of the stock fans in push/pull, so if you're using different fans, you might need to set different RPMs....


----------



## I Am The Stig

So ultimately I'm going to wind up RMA'ing my H80i, because not only does the LED light stay one color now but also the fan connector socket broke on the heatsink as the connector got stuck in the socket and I wound up pulling the entire socket out of the heatsink lol.

Is this still covered under the RMA?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I Am The Stig*
> 
> So ultimately I'm going to wind up RMA'ing my H80i, because not only does the LED light stay one color now but also the fan connector socket broke on the heatsink as the connector got stuck in the socket and I wound up pulling the entire socket out of the heatsink lol.
> 
> Is this still covered under the RMA?


Good lord....How the hell did you manage that?


----------



## I Am The Stig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Good lord....How the hell did you manage that?


tbh idk haha. The plug got stuck in the socket and it just wouldnt come out


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I Am The Stig*
> 
> tbh idk haha. The plug got stuck in the socket and it just wouldnt come out


If it's like the H100i, then there's a little tab on that connector to keep it in the pump/cooling plate....


----------



## I Am The Stig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> If it's like the H100i, then there's a little tab on that connector to keep it in the pump/cooling plate....


Yeah that was the issue...the tab broke


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I Am The Stig*
> 
> So ultimately I'm going to wind up RMA'ing my H80i, because not only does the LED light stay one color now but also the fan connector socket broke on the heatsink as the connector got stuck in the socket and I wound up pulling the entire socket out of the heatsink lol.
> 
> Is this still covered under the RMA?


Yes, that's fine. When you submit an RMA request, PM me the ticket # so I can attach a note to it. That way, you don't get a lot of questions from our customer service.


----------



## bartledoo

Does anyone know where i can find a guide or something if i want to put the block on just the die?


----------



## DUpgrade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bartledoo*
> 
> Does anyone know where i can find a guide or something if i want to put the block on just the die?


Don't do this! These are designed to go over the IHS protecting the die. Get good TIM if you're deliding and mount the block as intended.


----------



## ToxicAdam

I fixed my H80i
Quote:


> Let me show you in pictures what i mean.
> 
> In picture one we have the stock backplate thread.
> 
> 
> 
> In picture two we have how the thread sits on the motherboard at default.
> As you can see the thread sticks through. This means that no matter how tight you get those bolts, you will never get as 100% efficient tight as the thread sticks out above the motherboard.
> 
> 
> 
> Picture 3 shows two washers being used. Note, i used rubber washers so that i could just add them on the top rather than put them underneath the stock plastic washer.
> 
> 
> 
> Picture 4 shows how it will look on the motherboard if you do this.


_Copied from another forum_

My brand new H80i was running hot after re-seating twice I look to the web for help. My back-plate screw wholes were sticking out from the motherboard like the picture shows.. I actually notice this before and it did looked odd but hey.. that's how it came in the box.

I went to wall-mart and bought some washers to try the method above!

My load temps don't pass 50c while playing BF4 It use to be in the 70s ... wow!!!!!


----------



## Mergatroid

^ You can also use the red insulating washers you can pick up in any computer store, and many sites:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0YM0X90500

I used one set on my previous ASUS mobo, but they could also be stacked if required.

Just thought I would mention it because many of us may have these washers kicking around....


----------



## ToxicAdam

Yep, that'll work!


----------



## MillerLite1314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> I fixed my H80i
> _Copied from another forum_
> 
> My brand new H80i was running hot after re-seating twice I look to the web for help. My back-plate screw wholes were sticking out from the motherboard like the picture shows.. I actually notice this before and it did looked odd but hey.. that's how it came in the box.
> 
> I went to wall-mart and bought some washers to try the method above!
> 
> My load temps don't pass 50c while playing BF4 It use to be in the 70s ... wow!!!!!


What size washer did you use? I'm gonna pick some up as soon as I leave class. My h80i doesn't seat all the way against the ihs and my scores are tightened all the way down.


----------



## UZ7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerLite1314*
> 
> What size washer did you use? I'm gonna pick some up as soon as I leave class. My h80i doesn't seat all the way against the ihs and my scores are tightened all the way down.


http://www.lowes.com/Hardware/_/N-1z13cne/pl?Ntt=washer#! forgot which ones I got but I just brought the plastic one with me to compare


----------



## MillerLite1314

Ok. The link just takes me to a page of washing machines. I'll just pick up a couple different sizes from the local hardware store.


----------



## UZ7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerLite1314*
> 
> Ok. The link just takes me to a page of washing machines. I'll just pick up a couple different sizes from the local hardware store.


Haha naw click on hardware to filter it.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerLite1314*
> 
> What size washer did you use? I'm gonna pick some up as soon as I leave class. My h80i doesn't seat all the way against the ihs and my scores are tightened all the way down.


Done it by eye.. I got the smallest washer wal-mart had that would fit over the screw. They came in a bag costing 97 cents


----------



## UZ7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> Done it by eye.. I got the smallest washer wal-mart had that would fit over the screw. They came in a bag costing 97 cents


haha nice!

A few months back I went to lowes and asked someone if they had the same size washer and I showed him.. he was like no we dont have that size or anything. Went around on my own, found some washers, used them and worked fine


----------



## ToxicAdam

How could Corsair get this wrong... are some motherboards thicker than others?


----------



## UZ7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How could Corsair get this wrong... are some motherboards thicker than others?


Maybe the design board they were looking at had a thicker metal socket plate but I tried it with an asrock and Asus board and still the same with the washers getting rid of 80C spike.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UZ7*
> 
> Maybe the design board they were looking at had a thicker metal socket plate but I tried it with an asrock and Asus board and still the same with the washers getting rid of 80C spike.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


Yeah, it had to be something to have that big of a gap


----------



## ahnafakeef

Hi everyone! [And attn 3770K owners!]

I am currently in the process of overclocking my 3770K and am being held back by my cooler since it cannot handle high temps. So I hope to switch to an H100i within this month. But before that, I would like to know exactly what I can expect from it.

I am going to use it with the rig in my sig. I would like to run high voltages (1.45v for 24/7 usage) so as to achieve high overclocks (as high as the CPU goes with 1.45v) on my 3770K. My ambient temperature is in the low 20s. What kind of temperature can I expect in BF4 with that kind of voltage when using an H100i? (I have extra SP120s/AF120s if it helps in improving the performance of the H100i)

If I have mistakenly left out some information that might be necessary to provide me with an answer, please do ask for it.

Thank you very much!


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> 
> 
> How could Corsair get this wrong... are some motherboards thicker than others?


Yes, some boards are simply thicker than others. If your board is a bit thin, then you may have to use washers to compensate for the gap between the standoff and the board. This will ensure that you have a full contact between the coldplate and CPU.


----------



## HisXlency

what size washers? I need to shim mine.


----------



## Mysticode

Having a problem from the past few firmwares, but now sure if it's firmware related to my H100i or hardware related.

The green LED no longer lighting up. I posted about this here http://www.overclock.net/t/1465470/h100i-dead-green-led but we recommend to make a post in this thread in order to be seen by a Corsair rep.

I have also been seeking help on the Corsair forums, and have been told most probably an advanced RMA needs to be setup.

Thanks.


----------



## MillerLite1314

Went and picked up some fiber washers for my H80i and dropped almost 10C off my max temps after an hour of Arma 3. I forgot to take before and after pics.


----------



## Mysticode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerLite1314*
> 
> Went and picked up some fiber washers for my H80i and dropped almost 10C off my max temps after an hour of Arma 3. I forgot to take before and after pics.


What do they do?


----------



## MillerLite1314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mysticode*
> 
> What do they do?


They're non conductive washers like rubber washers to add to the backplate bracket so that you can get a better contact with the hydro series block on thinner boards.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerLite1314*
> 
> They're non conductive washers like rubber washers to add to the backplate bracket so that you can get a better contact with the hydro series block on thinner boards.


I put metal washers underneath the rubber washer that came with the cooler. there's no contact with the board.


----------



## MillerLite1314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> I put metal washers underneath the rubber washer that came with the cooler. there's no contact with the board.


I set mine up the same way


----------



## Sheindo

You can add me


----------



## H0bs0n

Has anyone put a H110 (picking up 2 on monday) in the front of a 750D for a NZXT Kraken g10?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sheindo*
> 
> You can add me


Very Nice ... The H105 looks to be a heck of a cooler ... even compares with some custom loops








See *[HERE]
*



Would be nice if you gave us more feedback on your 1st impressions, OC temps, mounting clearance etc?








You could be the 1st H105 in the case compatibility thread if you have some nice pics!
Go *[HERE]*


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> Hey guys,I own a Corsair H75 with 2 Corsair SP 120mm Quiet edition on Push/Pull configuration..Can I join the club too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ??
> Just checked the list sheet and apparently I'm the only one??????


Am I really the only one who has one?!?















Apparently something is wrong with google drive;Ican't access the sheets too..


----------



## Lukas026

hello again Hydro club members









I would like to ask for your help one more time:

I am building a RIG for a friend of mine with i7 4770k with Corsair H90 and EVGA 780ti ACX. The case will be FD Define R4 and I need your advice on fan orientation:

Atm I have two ideas how to do it:

A) 2x front intake, 1x bottom intake, 1x rear exhaust with H90 attached and 2x top exhaust

Pic:



or

B) 2x front intake, 1x bottom intake, 1x rear intake with H90 attached and 2x top exhaust

Pic:



so basiclly I am asking if the fan attached with Corsair H90 in the rear of the case should be intake or exhaust.

By the Corsair official guide it should be intake and some benches on Toms Hardware shows also that its better.

What do you guys think ?

Thank you for your answers.

PS: Please keep in mind that the graphics card will be 780ti with ACX cooler so the hot air will be blown more into the case instead of outside the case ( like with the blower cooler style)


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukas026*
> 
> hello again Hydro club members
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would like to ask for your help one more time:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I am building a RIG for a friend of mine with i7 4770k with Corsair H90 and EVGA 780ti ACX. The case will be FD Define R4 and I need your advice on fan orientation:
> 
> Atm I have two ideas how to do it:
> 
> A) 2x front intake, 1x bottom intake, 1x rear exhaust with H90 attached and 2x top exhaust
> 
> Pic:
> 
> 
> 
> or
> 
> B) 2x front intake, 1x bottom intake, 1x rear intake with H90 attached and 2x top exhaust
> 
> Pic:
> 
> 
> 
> so basiclly I am asking if the fan attached with Corsair H90 in the rear of the case should be intake or exhaust.
> 
> By the Corsair official guide it should be intake and some benches on Toms Hardware shows also that its better.
> 
> What do you guys think ?
> 
> Thank you for your answers.
> 
> PS: Please keep in mind that the graphics card will be 780ti with ACX cooler so the hot air will be blown more into the case instead of outside the case ( like with the blower cooler style)


I'd say option A.

my CPU barely reaches 60c, thats with two 120mm fans on a H70, two 140mm front intakes, and they all run around 500rpm.


----------



## MiiX

B, cause more intake than exhaust gives positive airflow giving less dust buildup inside your case and usally lower temps for chipsets etc


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukas026*
> 
> hello again Hydro club members
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would like to ask for your help one more time:
> 
> I am building a RIG for a friend of mine with i7 4770k with Corsair H90 and EVGA 780ti ACX. The case will be FD Define R4 and I need your advice on fan orientation:
> 
> Atm I have two ideas how to do it:
> 
> A) 2x front intake, 1x bottom intake, 1x rear exhaust with H90 attached and 2x top exhaust
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Pic:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or
> 
> B) 2x front intake, 1x bottom intake, 1x rear intake with H90 attached and 2x top exhaust
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Pic:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so basiclly I am asking if the fan attached with Corsair H90 in the rear of the case should be intake or exhaust.
> 
> By the Corsair official guide it should be intake and some benches on Toms Hardware shows also that its better.
> 
> What do you guys think ?
> 
> Thank you for your answers.
> 
> PS: Please keep in mind that the graphics card will be 780ti with ACX cooler so the hot air will be blown more into the case instead of outside the case ( like with the blower cooler style)


A classic question with varied answer's/opinions







... It mostly depends on your overclocks of primarily your CPU/ or ram? and secondarily your GPU. If your going to run high/max OC's on your Haswell then every degree matters and you'll gain 2-3c, or possibly more depending on your OC's, with the H90 running as "Intake" ... the main drawbacks running an intake setup, if your not pushing OC load temps, would be more maintenance (dust cleaning) of your radiator and added heat blowing over your motherboard components including your ram.

Most of us running medium to semi high (Intel) OC's 4.0 - 4.5GHz find the "Exhaust" setup works fine, as our load temps have plenty of headroom to work with AND it greatly reduces our radiator maintenance! I also recently switched GPU's to an OC'd Evga 680GTX Signature 2 - 2 fans dumping heat into the case as opposed to my old refernce 570's exhausting out the back ... AND saw almost no difference in my CPU load temps (1-2c) ... note I have a well ventilated case very similar to your example "A" above but I'm running an H100 top exhaust as opposed to the H90 rear fan setup.

Hope that helps ... Your on the right track with a well presented question, but there is no substitute for your own experimentation in your particular environment as everybody's setups seem to vary just a bit and we won't get into fan speeds and noise acceptability for now


----------



## Lukas026

wow thanks guys for quick answers. really appreciated them

all in all I will try the "intake" setup first and see how it works and after some time I will try the "exhaust" method

anyhow I have one more question to ask:

I am at the process of installing the H90 at this very moment and I am using Corsair quick start guide / manual:

http://www.corsair.com/us/media/cms/manual/49-001173_rev_AA_H90_QSG.pdf

I have done the step when I plug the retention ring and the retention clip to pump head: and now there is my question:

is it normal that even after the ring is in the clip and locked to the pump, it can still somehow spin like 1mm to right / left side ? I know that this shouldnt be a problem becouse once I put it into the MB backplate and screw it, it will be "hard" locked, but it is interesting nontheless. Anyone have same experience ?

Thank you again for your answers.

PS: you can see what I mean in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FsYi-96jls

exactly in 3:12 (you have to watch closely







)


----------



## UZ7

Just looking through my receipts, this was the one I bought last year lol: (washers). Could probably find a smaller/cheaper pack.









http://www.lowes.com/pd_1990-37672-35007_0__?productId=3019934&Ntt=1990+washers&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3D1990%2Bwashers&facetInfo=


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukas026*
> 
> wow thanks guys for quick answers. really appreciated them
> 
> all in all I will try the "intake" setup first and see how it works and after some time I will try the "exhaust" method
> 
> anyhow I have one more question to ask:
> 
> I am at the process of installing the H90 at this very moment and I am using Corsair quick start guide / manual:
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/us/media/cms/manual/49-001173_rev_AA_H90_QSG.pdf
> 
> I have done the step when I plug the retention ring and the retention clip to pump head: and now there is my question:
> 
> is it normal that even after the ring is in the clip and locked to the pump, it can still somehow spin like 1mm to right / left side ? I know that this shouldnt be a problem becouse once I put it into the MB backplate and screw it, it will be "hard" locked, but it is interesting nontheless. Anyone have same experience ?
> 
> Thank you again for your answers.
> 
> PS: you can see what I mean in this video:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FsYi-96jls
> 
> exactly in 3:12 (you have to watch closely
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Exciting times finishing up new builds ehhh








Your fine with the slight play in the retaining ring as long as it is "snapped in" properly








Actually look closely in Linus' vid and you will see he also has the "slight" play you describe


----------



## Lukas026

yeah this is OCN right









thanks for the answer

cheers


----------



## Sheindo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Very Nice ... The H105 looks to be a heck of a cooler ... even compares with some custom loops
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See *[HERE]
> *
> 
> 
> 
> Would be nice if you gave us more feedback on your 1st impressions, OC temps, mounting clearance etc?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could be the 1st H105 in the case compatibility thread if you have some nice pics!
> Go *[HERE]*


Yeah, it is a really nice cooler and the SP120 that are provided are doing an excellent work in matter of cooling the radiator.

I will post some better pics later with some info on the clearance and so on


----------



## orlfman

Got my h100i to replace my evo 212 push/pull. All I can say is wow.... 12c drop at load temps is amazing. I actually have some overclocking head room now!

I didn't use the provided corsair link... I have my own fan controller, a scythe kaze master pro. So I just connected my fans to it. According to my controller the corsair fans are actually running at their rated ~2700rpm which is pretty surprising! I've only ever had a few fans that actually ran at their rated speed.


----------



## Mergatroid

^ Looks awesome. Nice job on the cable management. Glad you like the new cooler.


----------



## Mysticode

My replacement h100i is installed, and I noticed they added in a woven fiber underneath the water tubing? Kinda nice actually, reflects the LED lights in my case in a kind of carbon fiber like way.


----------



## orlfman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mysticode*
> 
> My replacement h100i is installed, and I noticed they added in a woven fiber underneath the water tubing? Kinda nice actually, reflects the LED lights in my case in a kind of carbon fiber like way.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> ^ Looks awesome. Nice job on the cable management. Glad you like the new cooler.


Yeah they does look like they added in some sort of woven fiber in the tubbing. Looks really cool. Reminds me of tubes in a car hah.

Thanks Mergatroid!


----------



## Mergatroid

^ They look really heavy duty now. IMO the older fatter looking tubes didn't look all that good. Personally, I liked the tubes on my H100 better. However, the new tubes look pretty sweet. Almost enough to make me give up my H100 for something a little newer (almost).


----------



## MillerLite1314

can anyone post or pm me the 8.1 beta if they have the installer.exe I had to scrap and reinstall windows and I deleted the beta installer from my backup without thinking about while cleaning it out.


----------



## CaptainZombie

Is the length of the tubes for the H55 the same length as the H60 tubes? I have heard that the H55 tubing is more flexible than the H60, not sure how true that is? I am trying to see if the H55 would better fit in my Raven RVZ01 as the H60 is a PITA. I have the H60 in there, but its been a struggle.


----------



## Bockstiegel

Hello everybody,

A few days ago my H105 came in the mail to cool down my fx8350.

I am a very happy owner! Temps are great and overclocking has become easy. But I realized I was a bit sleapy when I installed it.










I mounted the water block sideways,







. Is it possible that the way I mounted is holding back the cooling potential of my H105? Can it damage the pump?

I am very happy with the cooling, but the noise when the fans are spinning max rpm is quite bad. In my case I think it also has to do with allot of vibration but I cant seem to fix it with how tight or loose the screws are. I am probaly going to replace them next month or so.


----------



## Mergatroid

^ It's unlikely that type of block would be affected by the orientation.


----------



## Divey

Anyone here running the H100i w/3930k? I have mine at 4.3/1.28v and temps reach 75*C under 100% load. Not sure if this seems high or normal. I rebuilding my rig tomorrow full water and I am a little afraid I may not have enough rad for my components.


----------



## oIXo

Corsair h100i in my NZXT Phantom full tower.



super easy to mount, fits great through I had to remove my 200mm fan on top. I need to buy a second one to fit both the fans and h100i.
Replaced the stocks fan by 2 af120 corsair quiet edition. It looks amazing all together. And I love the fact you can change the led color on the h100i.


----------



## MiiX

My H50 isnt leaking fluid, but it has evaporated/gone missing the last year... If I tilted my case before, I heard no sound, now its like the pump runs with air bubbles till i rotate it so that the air would be pushed into the rad... Its outside warranty with its 6 years of use, so I figured, what can I put this thing on? What can I do with it?

I was thinking of refilling it, but I got a cheap CoolerMaster 212 where I fitted a AP-15 on, and now my motherboard gets some cooling aswell!









So basicly I want to reuse this somehow, maybe for a peltier setup for fun, but not sure how Im supposed to refill it, any advice?


----------



## Q5Grafx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strajder*
> 
> Hi guys, I recently bought fx 8350 and was able to overclock it to 4.5ghz, voltage is set to 1.375 in bios and 1.392 under load with hyper 212 evo in push-pull setup. I am interested in buying corsair h80i for some more overclock so I would like to know how much I can overclock my cpu with this water cooling set?


Id love to see what you end up getting. I have an 8350 under a 110 and havent taken it out to play yet


----------



## Artichoke93

Corsair h100i in my NZXT H440




Did Corsair send me the wrong fan splitters? They plug into the pump but the connections that are supposed to plug into the fans that came with the kit do not plug at all, the fans have a female connection and the splitter has like an enclosed male? theres no way the two can plug/mate. So I have the two fans plugged into sysfan 1 and 3 and control them using the MSI command center, with that said I can only have 2 values with the msi command center, (50% at 40 degrees, 75% at 60 degrees.msi puts a straight line through those two points so im assuming it ramps accordingly) I'm not sure if thats a good curve or not so I have them set manually at 75% right now.
I used the OC genie function in the Bios which has my 4670k locked in at 4ghz unfortunately not utilizing the performance stepping thing these intel processors do so its running around 40-48C during idle-slight usage in a room thats typically 23-25 degrees celcuis depending on how toasty I want it to get in my room lol. Are my temps good? Im upgrading from an aircooled q9300 so kinda don't want my system dying on me randomly. The voltage is set to auto :/
Splitter pics



stats


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artichoke93*
> 
> Corsair h100i in my NZXT H440
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did Corsair send me the wrong fan splitters? They plug into the pump but the connections that are supposed to plug into the fans that came with the kit do not plug at all, the fans have a female connection and the splitter has like an enclosed male? theres no way the two can plug/mate. So I have the two fans plugged into sysfan 1 and 3 and control them using the MSI command center, with that said I can only have 2 values with the msi command center, (50% at 40 degrees, 75% at 60 degrees.msi puts a straight line through those two points so im assuming it ramps accordingly) I'm not sure if thats a good curve or not so I have them set manually at 75% right now.
> I used the OC genie function in the Bios which has my 4670k locked in at 4ghz unfortunately not utilizing the performance stepping thing these intel processors do so its running around 40-48C during idle-slight usage in a room thats typically 23-25 degrees celcuis depending on how toasty I want it to get in my room lol. Are my temps good? Im upgrading from an aircooled q9300 so kinda don't want my system dying on me randomly. The voltage is set to auto :/
> Splitter pics
> 
> 
> 
> stats


I thought the same thing but you'll find that those ends pull off.


----------



## Artichoke93

Oh wow, I feel like such an idiot.. Thank you for that, guess i'll be taking apart my computer this weekend. Now the quesiton is should I run both fans under one splitter?


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artichoke93*
> 
> Oh wow, I feel like such an idiot.. Thank you for that, guess i'll be taking apart my computer this weekend. Now the quesiton is should I run both fans under one splitter?


I did and it was fine as i used the other splitter for my two front case fans. And i was able to control them through corsair link.


----------



## naved777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahnafakeef*
> 
> Hi everyone! [And attn 3770K owners!]
> 
> I am currently in the process of overclocking my 3770K and am being held back by my cooler since it cannot handle high temps. So I hope to switch to an H100i within this month. But before that, I would like to know exactly what I can expect from it.
> 
> I am going to use it with the rig in my sig. I would like to run high voltages (1.45v for 24/7 usage) so as to achieve high overclocks (as high as the CPU goes with 1.45v) on my 3770K. My ambient temperature is in the low 20s. What kind of temperature can I expect in BF4 with that kind of voltage when using an H100i? (I have extra SP120s/AF120s if it helps in improving the performance of the H100i)
> 
> If I have mistakenly left out some information that might be necessary to provide me with an answer, please do ask for it.
> 
> Thank you very much!


3770k at 1.45v for H100i is too much to handle
for instance with my H100 at 4.8ghz/1.2v (LLC - High) in PUSH config when playing BF4 reaches to 75c(max)
H100i will get 6-7*c lower temps than H100 but again i manged to OC the CPU at super low volts.For 5Ghz i need 1.32v and the temps reaches 85c+ in no time (IVY is very HOT) which gets a bit uncomfortable but again not all chips are same so cant say what kind of chip you are dealing with.


----------



## bartledoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *naved777*
> 
> 3770k at 1.45v for H100i is too much to handle
> for instance with my H100 at 4.8ghz/1.2v (LLC - High) in PUSH config when playing BF4 reaches to 75c(max)
> H100i will get 6-7*c lower temps than H100 but again i manged to OC the CPU at super low volts.For 5Ghz i need 1.32v and the temps reaches 85c+ in no time (IVY is very HOT) which gets a bit uncomfortable but again not all chips are same so cant say what kind of chip you are dealing with.


just delid that ish! im only hitting 50c max 1.28v, ambient a little higher than room temp. With my 3570k ran a little higher than 1.4v 24/7 hitting mid 80s in ibt max


----------



## mAs81

Just a heads up,the colored rings for the pump of the H105 fit the H75 nicely too!!!!!!!!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Richaye

Looking to replace my Corsair H80i fans, what do you guys recommend?

AF120's or SP120's?


----------



## MillerLite1314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Richaye*
> 
> Looking to replace my Corsair H80i fans, what do you guys recommend?
> 
> AF120's or SP120's?


SP120. They have almost identical static pressure to the SP120L that the H80i comes with but spin a little bit slower and run a little quieter over all. I have two on my H80i and 3 in the front of my Air 540.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Richaye*
> 
> Looking to replace my Corsair H80i fans, what do you guys recommend?
> 
> AF120's or SP120's?


AFs are not really ideal to be mounted on a radiator, they are more like case fans. SPs are the ones that you want, better Static pressure


----------



## extreme-oc

Add me....









My new cooler is Corsair H110.









I come from Swiftech. My Swiftech H220 died after 6 months of use for a pump problem. My Swiftech H320 died after two days of use: always problem for the pumps.Swiftech pumps are very poor.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *extreme-oc*
> 
> Add me....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My new cooler is Corsair H110.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I come from Swiftech. My Swiftech H220 died after 6 months of use for a pump problem. My Swiftech H320 died after two days of use: always problem for the pumps.Swiftech pumps are very poor.


They are beyond poor. They are pure nasty.


----------



## MillerLite1314

Looks like I'll be upgrading my H80i to an H100i at the end of the month. Was going to go for a custom water solution but suspended that indefinitely. Now to find one on the cheap.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *extreme-oc*
> 
> Add me....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My new cooler is Corsair H110.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I come from Swiftech. My Swiftech H220 died after 6 months of use for a pump problem. My Swiftech H320 died after two days of use: always problem for the pumps.Swiftech pumps are very poor.


Well give us more personal feedback ... how do you like the H110 compared to the H220 when it was working good?
Are you overclocked? Fill in you system specs









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> They are beyond poor. They are pure nasty.


So what happened Bradley? I know you had some Corsair AIO's before you got your H220 and you seemed pretty happy/excited at the time with the Swiftech


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Well give us more personal feedback ... how do you like the H110 compared to the H220 when it was working good?
> Are you overclocked? Fill in you system specs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what happened Bradley? I know you had some Corsair AIO's before you got your H220 and *you seemed pretty happy/excited at the time with the Swiftech*


That's not true at all. I was exited when I "initially purchased" the H220, but upon arrival, it was all doom and gloom. The fans had snapped and the tubing had a dent.
I installed the unit with after market fans. The pump was extremely loud and my CPU was overheating. Every so often, the pump would just deactivate.
Replaced it with a H110. My CPU was nice and cool with low spinning fans and no pump noise. Far better than the H220 in my experience. If you ask all the H220 owners, you will find at least half of them are ex-owners for a reason.


----------



## SkateZilla

It appears the LED on the Block/Pump of my Corsair H100 is no longer working....

Should I be worried?

I cant tell if the Pump is still working, the Fans are still blowing, bout to run a stress test to see what temps I can get.

Temps are normal 11^C Idle 30^C Full Load (Burn In, Cinebench etc) for this time of year (70 or so outside)

Fans are both spinning, just no LED,

Tried alternate PSU as well.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkateZilla*
> 
> It appears the LED on the Block/Pump of my Corsair H100 is no longer working....
> 
> Should I be worried?
> 
> I cant tell if the Pump is still working, the Fans are still blowing, bout to run a stress test to see what temps I can get.
> 
> Temps are normal 11^C Idle 30^C Full Load (Burn In, Cinebench etc) for this time of year (70 or so outside)
> 
> Fans are both spinning, just no LED,
> 
> Tried alternate PSU as well.


Looks like the LED's have blown. Maybe a firmware update could fix the issue "if" it is just a software glitch.


----------



## SkateZilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Looks like the LED's have blown. Maybe a firmware update could fix the issue "if" it is just a software glitch.


I've power cycled numerous times, no luck,

Will continue to monitor CPU Temps.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkateZilla*
> 
> I've power cycled numerous times, no luck,
> 
> Will continue to monitor CPU Temps.


I think your pump is fine. Just LED's either blown or firmware messed up.


----------



## SkateZilla

just annoying having to keep an eye on it now because the LEDs dont show which profile it's on, and I've randomly pressed the button a few times.

then again, the pump can fail with the LEDs still working, so it's pretty much the same regardless. lol.

One more reason to bite the bullet and get a custom loop for everything.


----------



## Brian18741

Looks like my H100 bit the billet and died last night. It suddenly started making a strange whining sound so I restarted the PC but the problem persisted. I checked RealTemp and I was _idling_ at *100°C !!!*

So I took the pump off today to RMA it, good old Corsair already have a replacement being shipped to me! But check out the below, it does not look good! Screws holding doe the heat plate are covered in corrosion, weird gunk appears to be leaking out top, wth is that? This unit is less than 2 years old, been sitting in my tower since day 1.


----------



## Richaye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> Looks like my H100 bit the billet and died last night. It suddenly started making a strange whining sound so I restarted the PC but the problem persisted. I checked RealTemp and I was _idling_ at *100°C !!!*
> 
> So I took the pump off today to RMA it, good old Corsair already have a replacement being shipped to me! But check out the below, it does not look good! Screws holding doe the heat plate are covered in corrosion, weird gunk appears to be leaking out top, wth is that? This unit is less than 2 years old, been sitting in my tower since day 1.


Dude ***!


----------



## Brian18741

I know right! Luckily none of that gunk got into the socket!


----------



## Mergatroid

^ Wow. That's pretty amazing. Glad it didn't damage your board.


----------



## MiiX

I would check the motherboard for water stains, wow, that looks bad!

Why does this happen every time I try to remove my H50?...


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I would check the motherboard for water stains, wow, that looks bad!
> 
> Why does this happen every time I try to remove my H50?...


This has happened to me a couple of times. I think it's because of too much thermal paste.


----------



## orlfman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> Looks like my H100 bit the billet and died last night. It suddenly started making a strange whining sound so I restarted the PC but the problem persisted. I checked RealTemp and I was _idling_ at *100°C !!!*
> 
> So I took the pump off today to RMA it, good old Corsair already have a replacement being shipped to me! But check out the below, it does not look good! Screws holding doe the heat plate are covered in corrosion, weird gunk appears to be leaking out top, wth is that? This unit is less than 2 years old, been sitting in my tower since day 1.


That kinda looks almost like algae. Wow!

Almost all the AIO coolers I've seen from Corsair that has had issues has seemed like its always the H100.


----------



## Q5Grafx

Look at it this way. It is a water cooler. All water coolers must be maintained. A sealed system makes that impossible. therefore algae will build up in the tubes and decrease water flow as water evaporates and the cycle snowballs. I run an H110 and I know it is a temporary solution till i can put in the real water loop this machine needs. I just dread the day i open the case and see something like that above my 780s. Best of luck


----------



## Brian18741

Yea man, it's sitting over a pair of 290s so thankfully nothing else was damaged!

What you're saying makes sense. It's 3 months shy of being 2 years old. So if the loop has been filling with gunk and slowly evaporating that would explain why the pump failed as it may have been trying to push sludge around in there. But what I don't get is why they give a 5 year warranty, not that I'm complaining mind, if actual life span is a couple of years under normal usage.

The replacement is on the way but it will be a temporary fix as I have been planning a full custom loop for a while now and hope to be pulling the trigger on it in a couple of months or as soon as funds permit.


----------



## extreme-oc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Well give us more personal feedback ... how do you like the H110 compared to the H220 when it was working good?
> Are you overclocked? Fill in you system specs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what happened Bradley? I know you had some Corsair AIO's before you got your H220 and you seemed pretty happy/excited at the time with the Swiftech


Hello!

My system specs are:

OS - Windows 8.1
MoBo - Z87X-OC
CPU - I7 4770K
Ram - Gskyll
GPU - sapphire 7970

Yeah...all is overclocked:

cpu at 4,6
ram at 2400
Gpu at 1200












-CPU temp are 34-35 C°

-Core temps (but consider that pc is 3 days run continuous for reasons of sharing torrent)



Then H110 is very very good: my cpu temp with h220 are 40 C°


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> Looks like my H100 bit the billet and died last night. It suddenly started making a strange whining sound so I restarted the PC but the problem persisted. I checked RealTemp and I was _idling_ at *100°C !!!*
> 
> So I took the pump off today to RMA it, good old Corsair already have a replacement being shipped to me! But check out the below, it does not look good! Screws holding doe the heat plate are covered in corrosion, weird gunk appears to be leaking out top, wth is that? This unit is less than 2 years old, been sitting in my tower since day 1.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


YIKES! That doesn't look like your typical coolant seepage in other industrial apps. Man it would be interesting if Corsair would reply with a documented system failure report. My H100 is over 2.5 years old now and not a hint of problems, but I am going to start visual inspections more often AND set my CPU shutdown temp @ 85c-90c.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *extreme-oc*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> My system specs are:
> 
> OS - Windows 8.1
> MoBo - Z87X-OC
> CPU - I7 4770K
> Ram - Gskyll
> GPU - sapphire 7970
> 
> Yeah...all is overclocked:
> 
> cpu at 4,6
> ram at 2400
> Gpu at 1200
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -CPU temp are 34-35 C°
> 
> -Core temps (but consider that pc is 3 days run continuous for reasons of sharing torrent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then H110 is very very good: my cpu temp with h220 are 40 C°


Very Good ... welcome by the way ... Looks like 4-5c better @ light load/idle maybe 6-8c??? better than the H220 at Load? ...only thing missing were some load temps ... see my sig


----------



## extreme-oc

Quote:


> Looks like 4-5c better @ light load/idle maybe 6-8c??? better than the H220 at Load? ...only thing missing were some load temps ... see my sig wink.gif


With aida64 testing(10 hours) at load:

-temp max (achieved by a core) 4770k cooled with H220= 82 °C
-temp max (achieved by a core) 4770k cooled with H110= 79 °C

Cpu Vcore in both cases are 1.32

Then:

at full load the difference is 3 °C
on idle difference is average of 5 °C


----------



## Brian18741

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> YIKES! That doesn't look like your typical coolant seepage in other industrial apps. Man it would be interesting if Corsair would reply with a documented system failure report. My H100 is over 2.5 years old now and not a hint of problems, but I am going to start visual inspections more often AND set my CPU shutdown temp @ 85c-90c.


Certainly a good idea. Although I wouldn't necessarily expect this kind of trouble form a new unit, I will be doing visual checks regularly once I have the new unit installed. I'll email them and ask if they will give me some feedback as to what happened and post it up here if they do!


----------



## SkateZilla

Well With H100's being $50 for a refurb unit,
I think I'll order another one replace the CPU one, and use the 2 fans from the current on the new one.
(somehow as Push/Pull would need some more room and I think my fans are already in the way of one of the connectors, Maybe I can put the top fans on the outside of the HAF 922 and run the screws through the fan and case holes into the radiator mount).

Or start an RMA to see if I can send mine back to get the LED fixed and whatever else, Fluid Top off? Lol.

If I had room for another 240mm rad, I'd get my bag-o-shims and mount the old one to the HD7950 I have.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I would check the motherboard for water stains, wow, that looks bad!
> 
> Why does this happen every time I try to remove my H50?...


If you run the computer for a few minutes before removing your H50, it should soften up the TIM and allow you to pull the block off.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Q5Grafx*
> 
> Look at it this way. It is a water cooler. All water coolers must be maintained. A sealed system makes that impossible. therefore algae will build up in the tubes and decrease water flow as water evaporates and the cycle snowballs. I run an H110 and I know it is a temporary solution till i can put in the real water loop this machine needs. I just dread the day i open the case and see something like that above my 780s. Best of luck


The AIO water coolers are maintenance free. They contain chemicals that prevent algae. Look at the cooling system in a car, when's the last time you saw algae in automotive coolant? Unfortunately, the same cannot be said of open loops as they are exposed to the environment. However, you can still add chemicals that will reduce the amount of maintenance you need to do.


----------



## Megatron_Zero

I connected two H70 coolers together and added a swiftech reservoir, clear Alfagomma tubes, deionised water and a laser green dye, I have a corsair SP 120SP on each radiator and it works much better than I hoped for, if I crank the fans up slightly I can leave my GPU mining 24/7 at 55-60°C ( AMD 6970 OC).

Even if it works very well I have already ordered a full custom loop from Frozen CPU, both for looks and it will also run quieter and cooler but this was a budget fix that works very well


----------



## Mergatroid

^ Looks awesome man.......


----------



## CyBorg807

So I swapped from an H100i to and H105 today, and much to my surprise my 4930k temps jumped up by about 15C under load, I assume I a defective unit? Anyone else running H105 with an Ivy-E chip that has temps I can compare with.


----------



## felix

Bad mount maybe ? Did you try to re-mount ?


----------



## CyBorg807

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felix*
> 
> Bad mount maybe ? Did you try to re-mount ?


Ya I tried a couple times, I should have also mentioned that I had also swapped the chip at the same time in hopes of getting a better binned one but I feel like there would not have been such a large difference in temps between 2 chips with the same voltage and clock speed. The very first attempt of stress testing one of the codes of my new 4930k actually hit a 100c and with my last one I never broke 90c even with a slightly higher voltage running the H100i with lower fan speeds. Hopefully I did not damage the chip but it didn't even throttle.


----------



## felix

I am not an expert when it comes to Intel 2011 chips, but is there any case that the new cpu's heatspreader is not flat or the internal paste is not evenly spread ?

Since you changed both CPU & CPU Cooling, 15C worse from only cooling is much more than a wrong installation would excuse....

I know it's trouble, but if i were you, i would test back the H100i ( if it is still available ) ...


----------



## BradleyW

Some chips run hotter than others. I had 2 3930K's. One of them was around 10c hotter.


----------



## CyBorg807

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felix*
> 
> I am not an expert when it comes to Intel 2011 chips, but is there any case that the new cpu's heatspreader is not flat or the internal paste is not evenly spread ?
> 
> Since you changed both CPU & CPU Cooling, 15C worse from only cooling is much more than a wrong installation would excuse....
> 
> I know it's trouble, but if i were you, i would test back the H100i ( if it is still available ) ...


well I am going to return the H105 for another H100i and see what happens, but the 2011 Socket chips are soldered so I would think that the temps shouldn't very much.


----------



## SkateZilla

15^C Hotter and hitting 100^C sounds like the unit's pump wasnt working.


----------



## CyBorg807

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkateZilla*
> 
> 15^C Hotter and hitting 100^C sounds like the unit's pump wasnt working.


that's what I thought at first but according to my bios and other software it was going 1850rpms and I could feel it pumping fluid through the tube. The temps also never got any worse so I believe the pump was functioning. I did manage to find someone on the evga forums who had a very similar issue to mine, he couldn't figure out what the issue was either but he RMA the H100i and the next one worked fine.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

@Brian18741

You did get an RMA for that unit right? Just want to make sure that you are being taken care of.

That build up is pretty nasty, it must have been leaking around the pump housing for quite some time. Luckily, none of your hardware got affected. If you run into any issue processing your RMA, just let me know.


----------



## Brian18741

Hi Joseph,

I have created an auto RMA ticket on Corsair Force and paid for Express RMA. The money was debited from my account imminently and I received an auto confirmation email within minutes, however I have heard nothing since. This was on March 12th, 5 working days ago.

If I PM you the ticket number could you follow up for me?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> Hi Joseph,
> 
> I have created an auto RMA ticket on Corsair Force and paid for Express RMA. The money was debited from my account imminently and I received an auto confirmation email within minutes, however I have heard nothing since. This was on March 12th, 5 working days ago.
> 
> If I PM you the ticket number could you follow up for me?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Yes, sure. Go ahead and send me a PM with your ticket # and I'll look into it right away so we can find out what's causing the delay. Thanks


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyBorg807*
> 
> that's what I thought at first but according to my bios and other software it was going 1850rpms and I could feel it pumping fluid through the tube. The temps also never got any worse so I believe the pump was functioning. I did manage to find someone on the evga forums who had a very similar issue to mine, he couldn't figure out what the issue was either but he RMA the H100i and the next one worked fine.


It does sound like a bad unit, though some of the indicators like the pump's rpm being at 1850 and liquid movement through the tubes suggests otherwise. When you installed the H105 on both CPUs, are absolutely sure that there was a good contact between the CPU and coldplate? like the pump is properly secured on top of the CPU and has no play?


----------



## Brian18741

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Yes, sure. Go ahead and send me a PM with your ticket # and I'll look into it right away so we can find out what's causing the delay. Thanks


PM sent!


----------



## CyBorg807

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> It does sound like a bad unit, though some of the indicators like the pump's rpm being at 1850 and liquid movement through the tubes suggests otherwise. When you installed the H105 on both CPUs, are absolutely sure that there was a good contact between the CPU and coldplate? like the pump is properly secured on top of the CPU and has no play?


Wow I feel stupid, I never bothered to erase my Ini file for realtemp, which was on the HDD I transferred over to my new build (went from 3770K to 4930K) so all my temps have been way off.. I actually returned the H105 today and got another H100i, ran it witht the old ini file, to temp was 94C, realized what the issue was finally and corrected it and now my top temps are 86C, idle temps are also about 15C lower.

Well now that that is sorted out and I have your attention, is there any word on when the Current version of Corsair link for Win 8.1 will be out of Beta?


----------



## Torvi

Cyborg i believe there is still no set date altough i run beta drivers for mine 8.1 cooled with h100i and it works flawless, i think they still giving it final touches









edit:

WOULD BE GOOD TO HAVE CORSAIR 250D IMAGE IN LINK


----------



## SuprCool

Yesterday I found some power in me to try and at last find where does this irritating noise is coming from in my PC, as a result dissassemled the whole thing and when the last to parts left PSU (Corsair Ax860i) and H100i, I found out that it's the pump. So I took of the block and installed box cooler and run H100i unscrewed in my hands. It was perfectly quite but vibration was pretty strong, so it's obvious that noise is due to vibration. Noise is the loudest from the back of motherboard where the CPU is.
How do people battle this effect? I don't think it's faulty unit i guess It's just the way it works, no ?
I've read that ppl are putting some washers and spacers when installing the backplate any good instructions on that ?


----------



## dorian101

Hello,

I have this cooler for about 14-16 months
and it seems like my h100i tubing decided to expand with some unnerving results:





Has it ever happend to you? if so, what did you do?
should i rma and is it a valid reason to rma?
i dont know how vital these little rubber 'plugs' (?) are for the integrity of the system.
I can only guess it's been that way for a while and nothing leaked so far, does it seem like a big problem?

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!
tnx.


----------



## Brian18741

I would definitely RMA that unit. I certainly wouldn't put it back in my system in that condition!


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyBorg807*
> 
> Well now that that is sorted out and I have your attention, is there any word on when the Current version of Corsair link for Win 8.1 will be out of Beta?


Cool, glad to hear that you've got it all figured out









There are still some minor bugs that we are trying to iron out (varies from platform to platform). But once those issues have been rectified, we'll release the official version right away. We are trying finalize everything by the end of this month, so we can get them out by either 1st or 2nd week of April.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torvi*
> 
> WOULD BE GOOD TO HAVE CORSAIR 250D IMAGE IN LINK


Noted. We'll make sure to include the 250D and other new cases.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dorian101*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I have this cooler for about 14-16 months
> and it seems like my h100i tubing decided to expand with some unnerving results:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has it ever happend to you? if so, what did you do?
> should i rma and is it a valid reason to rma?
> i dont know how vital these little rubber 'plugs' (?) are for the integrity of the system.
> I can only guess it's been that way for a while and nothing leaked so far, does it seem like a big problem?
> 
> Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!
> tnx.


Sorry to see that. But no worries, that plastic cover is purely for aesthetic reasons and does not affect the cooler's integrity nor it's effectiveness down the road. We've seen that happen before, and it is due to temp change along the tubes overtime.

You are more than welcome to submit an RMA to get it replaced if you choose to do so, I have no problem approving your RMA. Just let me know.


----------



## SkateZilla

is the LED's being out on a H100 Purchased on 01/22/2012 eligible for RMA?

I suspect 2 years of hot/cold temps that the fluid is prolly a bit low and stuff too.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkateZilla*
> 
> is the LED's being out on a H100 Purchased on 01/22/2012 eligible for RMA?
> 
> I suspect 2 years of hot/cold temps that the fluid is prolly a bit low and stuff too.


Yes, that will qualify for RMA. Failed LED alone is enough to submit a request. You should be fine.


----------



## H0bs0n

Ok, so I had the chance to start my H110+nzxt+deadsilence install, looking at it I need to get some 6-32 all thread and nuts then I will be golden, Yes I know that the fans should not really be in that config, but it was the easiest way to get the distance I needed.


----------



## H0bs0n

Also yes I know the cabling is a mess, work in progress.


----------



## 2jzohno

Hello everyone!

I have an h80i and a h60 (2013). The h80i cools my cpu and the h60 cools my gtx 570.
Here is what I'm trying to accomplish. Connect the h60 into my h80i loop so I can run off of one 120 radiator + reservoir and save some space.

I have a couple questions if anyone could please answer them to the best of their knowledge so I can sack up and do this mod.

1) Are the pumps from the h60 and h80i exactly the same flow rate wise? I know the h60 doesn't come with the corsairlink crap that no one uses.
2) I am going to get a Phobya Balancer 150 Reservoir which don't come with fittings. So what exact fitting sizes do i need to get the reservoir to work with the stock tubing?
I am going to reuse the tubing that came with the units as they're decent quality and I don't feel getting larger tubing will make a difference since the ID seems to be 1/4" regardless of the OD size.
The Phobya says, "3 x G1/4" Threaded Plugs included".

Thank you for your time!


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkateZilla*
> 
> is the LED's being out on a H100 Purchased on 01/22/2012 eligible for RMA?
> 
> I suspect 2 years of hot/cold temps that the fluid is prolly a bit low and stuff too.


Don't forget your H100 has a five year warranty. Also, it's sealed. If it's working properly, two years of use is not going to lower the coolant level.


----------



## Torvi

i just ran a small test over on my h100i and i think i got a very good solution for those that are afraid of fans begin low or temps high,

I got my cpu (you can see in sig) Oced now 24/7 to 4.2 ghz and i decided to run out of myself another of hundred stress test ive been doing so far.

I've my h100i stock fans speed locked at 1k rpm for both of them which makes them both work nice and quiet.

My scores with idles on all cores are:

28c
26c
24c
25c

My scores with stress test on aida64 are:

max:
61
62
60
55

My pump temp stays at 28.2c

When i turned on max rpm which is rough 2500rpm it started to sound like a jetplane and scores werent very pleasing (maybe only for me). While pump temp dropped to 24.2 after few minutes my cpu temp on average dropped by 1 to 3c. Not very much for 1500 rpm more on each of fan. That said i want to show you guys that you dont need to get these pro fans, silent fans and stuff with h100i. Stock fans are more than engouh to keep it cool in reasonable ocing. They were designed to work like this and they Do work.

I hope i solved if anyone had a problem with them.


----------



## CyBorg807

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Cool, glad to hear that you've got it all figured out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are still some minor bugs that we are trying to iron out (varies from platform to platform). But once those issues have been rectified, we'll release the official version right away. We are trying finalize everything by the end of this month, so we can get them out by either 1st or 2nd week of April.
> Noted. We'll make sure to include the 250D and other new cases.


Well I am glad to hear that progress is being made, I was starting to worry that Corsair link had been abandoned, So is there any plans for an H105i? I would love to upgrade to something a little beefier that can still fit in my 540 Carbide. But I would hate to lose Corsair link functionality now that I seem to have it working flawlessly.


----------



## angelgrin

hi guys, im thinking of buying a corsair h60, because i made a mistake of buying rams that are too high and will hit the cpu cooler i was going to buy which is the NT06-pro. so now i am considering the AIO cooler corsair H60 but i'm scared it might burst or leak and damage my system because sometimes i will leave it on for 24/7 and nobody is around the house.

so i want to ask if putting a double containment to the flexible hoses and the pump will have any effect on cooling or may cause the pump to overheat?

(maybe rubber tubing also or plastic so if ever it leaks or bursts it will just leak to the bottom where the rad will be located)


----------



## darkelixa

Looking at maybe changing from my noctua cpu cooler to a corsair h75 or something similar. Do the corsair units leak at all and if they ever do, will corsair cover you for damaged equipment like the cpu, gpu etc? Or is it more so safer to stick to air cooling?


----------



## Torvi

if ur paranoid about safety go for air cooling, i use my h100i so far no probs


----------



## darkelixa

Its just something that I wont really be looking for as on my desk its not in a place where i can just look at a side window and see any leaks, have to pull the tower off the desk open the side panel and look


----------



## angelgrin

yes but just for the added safety thats why i like to put a double containment, just want to know if any of you have done it?


----------



## SkateZilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Don't forget your H100 has a five year warranty. Also, it's sealed. If it's working properly, two years of use is not going to lower the coolant level.


Sealed doesnt mean it's 100% Evap. Proof.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyBorg807*
> 
> Well I am glad to hear that progress is being made, I was starting to worry that Corsair link had been abandoned, So is there any plans for an H105i? I would love to upgrade to something a little beefier that can still fit in my 540 Carbide. But I would hate to lose Corsair link functionality now that I seem to have it working flawlessly.


No plans at the moment and I'm not sure if there will be in the future. Link was specifically designed to work with Coolit coolers (H80/H80i and H100/H100i), to make it work with non-Coolit coolers like the the H105, that is something that we may look into in the future, but that will require to re-write the SW from ground up and that will take some time.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *angelgrin*
> 
> hi guys, im thinking of buying a corsair h60, because i made a mistake of buying rams that are too high and will hit the cpu cooler i was going to buy which is the NT06-pro. so now i am considering the AIO cooler corsair H60 but i'm scared it might burst or leak and damage my system because sometimes i will leave it on for 24/7 and nobody is around the house.
> 
> so i want to ask if putting a double containment to the flexible hoses and the pump will have any effect on cooling or may cause the pump to overheat?
> 
> (maybe rubber tubing also or plastic so if ever it leaks or bursts it will just leak to the bottom where the rad will be located)


You really don't have to put anything on the hoses to reinforce to structure or to make sure that it doesn't burst. Though, you could put some for aesthetic reasons, which I have seen some users have done to match their rig's overall theme. But to put them on just to ensure rigidity, is not really necessary.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Looking at maybe changing from my noctua cpu cooler to a corsair h75 or something similar. Do the corsair units leak at all and if they ever do, will corsair cover you for damaged equipment like the cpu, gpu etc? Or is it more so safer to stick to air cooling?


That is the last thing that would worry about it. Leak cases are the least reports we come across with any of our coolers. Although they are rare, just in case it happens with your cooler and has damaged other hardware in your system, we''l have no problem to compensate you for those damaged parts that got affected. But of course, given that we have enough data that suggest the cooler leaked due to hardware failure. That said, If we found that the cooler was tampered or modified, then that would be totally different ball game.

And to add on, we do have a structure for this type of cases. They are not treated like your standard RMA process, we'd like to make sure that all leak cases are looked into carefully and handled accordingly.


----------



## Brian18741

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> Looks like my H100 bit the billet and died last night. It suddenly started making a strange whining sound so I restarted the PC but the problem persisted. I checked RealTemp and I was _idling_ at *100°C !!!*
> 
> So I took the pump off today to RMA it, good old Corsair already have a replacement being shipped to me! But check out the below, it does not look good! Screws holding doe the heat plate are covered in corrosion, weird gunk appears to be leaking out top, wth is that? This unit is less than 2 years old, been sitting in my tower since day 1.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


For anyone who was following, my replacement CPU cooler arrived today, a H100*i* no less!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> That is the last thing that would worry about it. Leak cases are the least reports we come across with any of our coolers. Although they are rare*, just in case it happens with your cooler and has damaged other hardware in your system, we''l have no problem to compensate you for those damaged parts that got affected*. But of course, given that we have enough data that suggest the cooler leaked due to hardware failure. That said, If we found that the cooler was tampered or modified, then that would be totally different ball game.
> 
> And to add on, we do have a structure for this type of cases. They are not treated like your standard RMA process, we'd like to make sure that all leak cases are looked into carefully and handled accordingly.


This is fantastic customer service, coupled with a 5 year warranty, well done Corsair!

When you pay for an Express RMA, how long roughly does it take for the refund once the RMA'd item is received?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkateZilla*
> 
> Sealed doesnt mean it's 100% Evap. Proof.


No, just 99%.

You're sure not going to notice any difference in performance even at the five year mark, unless something has gone wrong with the cooler.
It's no different from leaving any other liquid in a sealed container. I have liquids in my garage that have been there for 15-20 years and have not evaporated away. If they are sealed air tight, they will last a long long time.

@darkelixa

I have installed quite a few Corsair AIO water coolers in two of my PCs (three coolers), and in friends PCs (three coolers), and in customer's PCs (too many to count) and none of them have come back leaking. I've been using an H50 and an H100 for about two years now without any leaking.

My PC is sitting in my desk, so I can't normally see in the side window either, but I'm not worried. However, I do pull it out about once a month to do a minor dusting inside the case, so I do inspect it a little then. Never had any leaks at all.

Some people have been unlucky (go back about four pages), but overall pretty much all of the AIO water coolers have proven very reliable over the years.

Something you should know is, in the past if a leak in a Corsair AIO water cooler has caused damage to a person's computer, and it can be shown that it was a factory defect, Corsair has actually replaced components for that person (one guy ended up with a better system than he started with). I can't say if they still do that or not, but Corsair does stand behind their product and their customers.

On another note, I got my $20 Corsair rebate check today, for a PSU I purchased about a month ago. That was a 600W Semi-modular PSU that cost me about $60 cdn after the rebate. Sweet....


----------



## angelgrin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> You really don't have to put anything on the hoses to reinforce to structure or to make sure that it doesn't burst. Though, you could put some for aesthetic reasons, which I have seen some users have done to match their rig's overall theme. But to put them on just to ensure rigidity, is not really necessary.


thanks for your response, actually my purpose is not for added rigidity but for leakage. so the leak can be controlled and then drained to a safe place by gravity (because my case is the FT03-mini so the RAD would be placed at the bottom) rather than splashing all over my system. the concept is the same with double containment piping. i just want to know if it is a good idea or not and what material to use best? because i would cover the pump and the two flexible hoses.


----------



## Maggots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Leak cases are the least reports we come across with any of our coolers. Although they are rare, just in case it happens with your cooler and has damaged other hardware in your system, we''l have no problem to compensate you for those damaged parts that got affected. But of course, given that we have enough data that suggest the cooler leaked due to hardware failure.


Nice, this is reassure me. I just bought corsair H75 yesterday. It's has not been installed cuz I don't have time yesterday because of my work, maybe I'll install it tonight.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maggots*
> 
> Nice, this is reassure me. I just bought corsair H75 yesterday. It's has not been installed cuz I don't have time yesterday because of my work, maybe I'll install it tonight.


That's great. I hope you enjoy it. Personally, I love the neatness a water cooler gives to a build, just sporting the block on the CPU and no large heatsink.

Let us know how you like it.


----------



## Maggots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> That's great. I hope you enjoy it. Personally, I love the neatness a water cooler gives to a build, just sporting the block on the CPU and no large heatsink.
> 
> Let us know how you like it.


I already installed it on my case yesterday night, not too easy like my first thought, but it's done







. One of my 4670K hottest core is 49C when I'm running 3DMark @ stock clock, my room is warm last night and I don't have AC.

Oh yes, I want to ask. The fan that included with H75 is PWM right? In terms of performance with SP120 which is better? Because I had SP120 dual pack that not yet to be use. Sorry if it been asked before.


----------



## Torvi

49c on stock on load?! damn that's hot! now i start to feel like getting h100i was a right choice after all


----------



## Shazberries

Hey guys!
My name is Andrew and I am trying to design a bracket for using Corsair Hydro series coolers on a GPU. Check it out here if you're interested: http://www.overclock.net/t/1476839/gpu-brackets-for-mounting-antec-620-920-and-corsair-h50-70-110#post_22008497

Sneak peek:


----------



## Maggots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torvi*
> 
> 49c on stock on load?! damn that's hot! now i start to feel like getting h100i was a right choice after all


Yeah I don't why but that is the max temp one of the core record by HWiNFO. It's not much different than when I'm using enermax ETS-T40 on my old 3570K @ stock clock, truth is I'm a bit disappointed with the temperature H75 reached. I don't know it's because haswell is running more hotter than ivy or my room temperature


----------



## dangerdan87

I bought an H100 for a temporary watercool set up until I get a 900D (using the Storm Trooper as a temerorary case).

I got excited when I got the box from NewEgg yesterday, only to find a bag full of glycol








Got an RMA..hopefully I can get a replacement soon that won't be messed up. I guess I'll be going back to the stock Intel fan cooler for now.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maggots*
> 
> I already installed it on my case yesterday night, not too easy like my first thought, but it's done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . One of my 4670K hottest core is 49C when I'm running 3DMark @ stock clock, my room is warm last night and I don't have AC.
> 
> Oh yes, I want to ask. The fan that included with H75 is PWM right? In terms of performance with SP120 which is better? Because I had SP120 dual pack that not yet to be use. Sorry if it been asked before.


54c isn't bad for a Haswell. My 4770 runs pretty warm on my H100 too, although it's overclocked to 4.5 but it gets quite a bit warmer than 54c (like 30 degrees higher) when running Prime95.

I know my old socket 775 core 2 quad with a stock Intel fan would easily hit 75c under load. What was your load temp before the H60? If your room is in the 30s for an ambient then 54c is pretty good.

If you feel it's too high, and if your H60 is the one that uses the square block, make sure it's not touching anything around the cpu socket. It's common for the block to hit some capacitors that are situated close to the cpu socket so the block doesn't seat 100%. You can correct this by turning the block 90 degrees and remounting it.

Many of us have found that adding some washers to the back plate so the screw posts don't stick so far through the board will increase the pressure on the block for better temps. Those red fiber/paper washers you see with a lot of computer hardware will do the job, although you might have to make the inside of the washer a touch wider (easily done with an exacto-knife or one side of a pair of scissors twirling around the inside of the washer like a drill bit).

As for your fan, if you install just one, I don't think you will see much difference in temps. If you install both (if you have the space) in push/pull, you might see up to a 3c difference.

Also make sure your BIOS is set to control the 4-pin PWM fan using your motherboard fan header, and if you have different fan modes, go for the most aggressive one so it will get the fan up to max RPMs under max load. You should have gotten some software with your motherboard that will let you see your fan RPM while you're loading it.


----------



## Maggots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> 54c isn't bad for a Haswell. My 4770 runs pretty warm on my H100 too, although it's overclocked to 4.5 but it gets quite a bit warmer than 54c (like 30 degrees higher) when running Prime95.
> 
> I know my old socket 775 core 2 quad with a stock Intel fan would easily hit 75c under load. What was your load temp before the H60? If your room is in the 30s for an ambient then 54c is pretty good.
> 
> If you feel it's too high, and if your H60 is the one that uses the square block, make sure it's not touching anything around the cpu socket. It's common for the block to hit some capacitors that are situated close to the cpu socket so the block doesn't seat 100%. You can correct this by turning the block 90 degrees and remounting it.
> 
> Many of us have found that adding some washers to the back plate so the screw posts don't stick so far through the board will increase the pressure on the block for better temps. Those red fiber/paper washers you see with a lot of computer hardware will do the job, although you might have to make the inside of the washer a touch wider (easily done with an exacto-knife or one side of a pair of scissors twirling around the inside of the washer like a drill bit).
> 
> As for your fan, if you install just one, I don't think you will see much difference in temps. If you install both (if you have the space) in push/pull, you might see up to a 3c difference.
> 
> Also make sure your BIOS is set to control the 4-pin PWM fan using your motherboard fan header, and if you have different fan modes, go for the most aggressive one so it will get the fan up to max RPMs under max load. You should have gotten some software with your motherboard that will let you see your fan RPM while you're loading it.


I'm using H75 not H60, and I do push pull with both fans. I already plug the fan connector to 4 pin CPU FAN on my motherboard


----------



## Curleyyy

Running my 3770k @ 4.5Ghz / 1.3v with a h100i and temps are hitting 89c - 96c after about 13+ minutes on Prime95, just wondering if this is normal?


----------



## bajer29

OK, I've looked high and low and I've not found a clear answer to my question. Will the H105 fit inside the top of a 600T case? I have seen a response on another forum that stated it would fit if the fans were mounted outside of the case in a top-mounted configuration. Anyone know if I can fit the fan and rad inside without clearance issues. I don't have super high profile ram heat sinks but they aren't tiny either: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503 ...

Anyone know?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Curleyyy*
> 
> Running my 3770k @ 4.5Ghz / 1.3v with a h100i and temps are hitting 89c - 96c after about 13+ minutes on Prime95, just wondering if this is normal?


That seems a touch high to me. My 4770K hits mid 80s on Prime 95 with a 4.5GHz o/c. I'm using the original H100, so I would have thought your temps would be about 3-5c lower than mine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> OK, I've looked high and low and I've not found a clear answer to my question. Will the H105 fit inside the top of a 600T case? I have seen a response on another forum that stated it would fit if the fans were mounted outside of the case in a top-mounted configuration. Anyone know if I can fit the fan and rad inside without clearance issues. I don't have super high profile ram heat sinks but they aren't tiny either: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231503 ...
> 
> Anyone know?


This would depend on your board. If your CPU Power connector, and the RAM, are not mounted too high on your board, you might be able to get the rad to fit inside the case.

You will have to measure from the top of your cpu power socket and the top of your RAM to the top of the 600T in order to discover if the rad will fit inside. Either that, or talk to someone with the same board you have who is also using a 600T and get them to measure for you.

Of course, you can always use the off-set trick, where you off-set the rad to the left. This works, but a slight amount of the rad gets obscured and you can only line up three screw holes (from what I hear, I haven't tried it myself). You can always ask in the 600T thread and see if anyone there has tried it. I do remember one guy who moded his case so he could put the rad up top with the fans inside, but of course he couldn't put the top cover back on because the rad was too thick.


----------



## djdevotion

Hi all,

I am just new to this forum, found a lot of interesting tips for my Corsair H80i. I have one strange issue with the LED color and Corsair Link in Windows 8.1. I am using the 2.5.5146 beta of Corsair Link and the LED configuration is set on only the RED channel (R=255, G=0, B=0). However, upon bootup the color on the pump isn't red, it's more pink. So blue seems to be in it. When I open all the RGB faders from 0 to 255, and set them back to 0 accept for the RED channel the pump is bright red again. What could be the problem?


----------



## Maggots

Now I know why my H75 temp wasn't so good. When I look at the fan RPM at HwiNFO, it only run between 1367 - 1404 RPM. Looks like although I plug the fan to CPU Fan on my asrock z87 extreme4, it always on constant low speed, my setting on UEFI is on standard mode. I thought that it automatically adjust the fan speed on that standard mode, but on asrock motherboard look like you have to manually configured fan speed percentage on custom mode so the fan speed can change depend on the temperature.
Man, it much simple on my old z77 msi motherboard. Set to auto and the fan adjust it speed automatically.


----------



## kolo7127

Here's my H75 running as intake on my 250d, single fan only. Using scythe glidestream 1900 RPM PWM and some gelid GC extreme. Temps at Idle are 28C and 68C under Prime95 SFF load on my 2700k @ 4.5Ghz. I really like this cooler, especially the aesthetics over the i series. I originally had it mounted as intake on the side towards the front with one stock h75 fan and the other side fan with the second stock fan as exhaust. Also had a white LED 200mm corsair fan from the 600T on the front, but it didn't produce the lighting effect i wanted, and the temps were about 5C higher overall. So I went this route instead and I am very pleased.


----------



## cjc75

Hey all, I have an old H50, and I am wondering if there is much performance difference between it, and the H75?

I currently have my H50 custom rigged/mounted with zip ties inside my unused 5.25 bays, with a pair of AP-15 1850rpm Gentle Typhoon's mounted on the rad in push/pull configuration... with a single case fan mounted on the 5.25 grills, pull air in and pushing it into the 5.25 bays to be sucked through by the h50's GT fans.

My H50 is sufficient, as my 2500K is running 24/7 at 4.6ghz and barely breaking a sweat, but if I can get it cooled down just a little more then I'm confident that I might be able to keep it stable 24/7 at 4.8ghz or maybe even a little more...

Catch is, I don't have room for a dual 120 rad like the H100's etc have, so a single 120 is best... would I get any better performance out of the H75, or should I consider saving for the H80 and its thicker Rad?


----------



## kolo7127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cjc75*
> 
> Hey all, I have an old H50, and I am wondering if there is much performance difference between it, and the H75?
> 
> I currently have my H50 custom rigged/mounted with zip ties inside my unused 5.25 bays, with a pair of AP-15 1850rpm Gentle Typhoon's mounted on the rad in push/pull configuration... with a single case fan mounted on the 5.25 grills, pull air in and pushing it into the 5.25 bays to be sucked through by the h50's GT fans.
> 
> My H50 is sufficient, as my 2500K is running 24/7 at 4.6ghz and barely breaking a sweat, but if I can get it cooled down just a little more then I'm confident that I might be able to keep it stable 24/7 at 4.8ghz or maybe even a little more...
> 
> Catch is, I don't have room for a dual 120 rad like the H100's etc have, so a single 120 is best... would I get any better performance out of the H75, or should I consider saving for the H80 and its thicker Rad?


I did a bunch of research before purchasing my H75, and from what i found was that the H75 is very comparable to the H80i as far as performance is concerned. Depending on which review i was looking at sometimes the H75 edged out the H80i and vise versa. That being said the H75 will save some extra space, looks better, is quieter, and imho has the more reliable asetek block and pump. It just doesn't have the corsair link or an LED. Now if we're all under the agreement that the H80i performs better than the H50, I would personally go with the H75 I believe its a little cheaper and has matching performance. Though I'm guessing from H50 to H75 or H80i you'll only get a few degrees better temps if any at all. 4.8 GHz can sometimes take a large jump in voltage. For my 2700k from [email protected] to [email protected] my temps were about 10C higher.


----------



## f0rteOC

Just curious, does Corsair have most of the bugs ironed out with Corsair Link? I was thinking about upgrading to the H100i but I don't want to get stuck with a buggy product.
Also, is there any temperature/noise difference between the H100i and the H105?


----------



## cjc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kolo7127*
> 
> I've did a bunch of research before purchasing my H75, and from what i found was that the H75 is very comparable to the H80i as far as performance is concerned. Depending on which review i was looking at sometimes the H75 edged out the H80i and vise versa. That being said the H75 will save some extra space, looks better, is quieter, and imho has the more reliable asetek block and pump. It just doesn't have the corsair link or an LED. Now if we're all under the agreement that the H80i performs better than the H50, I would personally go with the H75 I believe its a little cheaper and has matching performance. Though I'm guessing from H50 to H75 or H80i you'll only get a few degrees better temps if any at all. 4.8 GHz can sometimes take a large jump in voltage. For my 2700k from [email protected] to [email protected] my temps were about 10C higher.


Interesting...

Either way sounds like it would be an upgrade worth considering. It also does look like it will mount better in my Storm Scout then my current H50, so I'll stick it on my list for future upgrade considerations.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kolo7127*
> 
> I did a bunch of research before purchasing my H75, and from what i found was that the H75 is very comparable to the H80i as far as performance is concerned. Depending on which review i was looking at sometimes the H75 edged out the H80i and vise versa. That being said the H75 will save some extra space, looks better, is quieter, and imho has the more reliable asetek block and pump. It just doesn't have the corsair link or an LED. Now if we're all under the agreement that the H80i performs better than the H50, I would personally go with the H75 I believe its a little cheaper and has matching performance. Though I'm guessing from H50 to H75 or H80i you'll only get a few degrees better temps if any at all. 4.8 GHz can sometimes take a large jump in voltage. For my 2700k from [email protected] to [email protected] my temps were about 10C higher.


When I was running a Core 2 Quad with an H70, I upgraded to an H100 and had a 7c performance improvement. The H70 at the time out performed the H50 by a few degrees, so I would expect a pretty decent improvement from an H50 to an H75 or H80i.

Can't help you with the Corsair software. I can say there seems to have been fewer and fewer complaints lately.


----------



## kolo7127

I was just guessing h50 to h75i, h100i has double the radiator surface area. Like I said a few degrees, but didnt want to be caught up if it didnt change, so i left room for error


----------



## Ubeogesh

Hi guys
Did anyone take apart\disassemble H100i?
I wonder about couple of things..
1) Is it possible use the rad from H100i in another water cooling setup? The main question is - is it possible to fit standard G1/4" fittings in there.
2) Is it possible to take apart the pump\waterblock\LINK unit to mess with corsair LINK device but without breaking the water cooling loop?


----------



## LuckyStarV

I was bored and decided to count the fins on my H60 and H80/H80i. The H60 has 102 fins per coloumn while the H80/H80i actually had less dense fins, coming in at 52. By my math, the H60 actually has more surface area despite the thinner radiator.

How much of a role does flow restriction(H80/H80i has less since it is deeper) and radiator fin density (shorter denser fins vs longer and wide spaced fins) take? Even with push/pull and maxed good fans, my H60 can't catch up with the H80 in silent mode. But here there are different results http://www.anandtech.com/show/5054/corsair-hydro-series-h60-h80-and-h100-reviewed/5


----------



## Tennobanzai

Is it normal to hear the system "burping" after 1 week of use? I have the H105 and I can hear it burping every 5 minutes or so.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kolo7127*
> 
> I was just guessing h50 to h75i, h100i has double the radiator surface area. Like I said a few degrees, but didnt want to be caught up if it didnt change, so i left room for error


I realize that, but the H100i and H80i offer similar performance. So, I would expect a similar improvement.


----------



## natusvincere

Hye guys. I need help on modding ( change tubing) for my Corsair H50 since the one of the tube had cause leaking. Im out of warranty.

Please guide me. Thnx. Really need help here.


----------



## richieza

Hi guys/gals,

Im just wondering, have read through a few of the 2000 odd pages, but cant seem to find an answer.

Im using the H100i (on a 2011 and 1155) , recently installed RAM fans, and now the H100i doesnt fit into case (I.E> the ram cooler takes up too much space)

My question is:
what orientation must the Pump (the CPU block) be placed, all the photos etc are all vertical can i move the pump, 90/180/270 deg? (if pipes allow it)

My reason for confusion is it seems the back plate has a certain profile (the cut out) that accompanies the CPU block.

(i personal do not care if the Corsair logo is upside-down, leftwards or rightwards)

Thanks


----------



## kolo7127

I'm almost positive you can use any one of the four options, as long as you have room for it and arent stressing the tubes in any way.


----------



## richieza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kolo7127*
> 
> I'm almost positive you can use any one of the four options, as long as you have room for it and arent stressing the tubes in any way.


THX


----------



## kolo7127

Any one tried to take the silver ring off of the H75? My buddy at work has an H105 and is willing to give me his red ring, I just dont want to break it and be stuck with no ring


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kolo7127*
> 
> Any one tried to take the silver ring off of the H75? My buddy at work has an H105 and is willing to give me his red ring, I just dont want to break it and be stuck with no ring


It is extremely easy to take it out and it fits perfectly with the H105 rings..

There you go!!!!!


----------



## kolo7127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> It is extremely easy to take it out and it fits perfectly with the H105 rings..
> 
> There you go!!!!!


Excellent, thanks. Nice rig btw. I know this technically isnt the right place to ask, but how do you like that 350? I'm considering it for my next build, but the new 450d looks a little more attractive. Even if its a little bigger.


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kolo7127*
> 
> Excellent, thanks. Nice rig btw. I know this technically isnt the right place to ask, but how do you like that 350? I'm considering it for my next build, but the new 450d looks a little more attractive. Even if its a little bigger.


Thanks man,appreciate it.I really like your 250D build too..It's hella clean,kudos
True,the 450D is newer,so it's more good looking , but I love the ''pure" obsidian look that the 350D has..Meaning I'm not a fan of the 450D front panel..But it really comes down to your own taste,and it still is an awesome case!!
EDIT:
Check out this thread for some 350 pr0n


----------



## kolo7127

Thanks I spent hours planning and rearranging those cables. I think i finally have it set though. I know what you mean about that pure obsidian look as i use an 800d at work. I think theyre getting references from the older 650d. I like the idea and functionality of the front grate for use with an intake rad. As with my 250 i get 5C lower temps across the board with the front panel open vs closed. Wish i could mod the case to have it automatically open and close on and off load, like a super car spoiler. Sorry for getting off topic here.


----------



## Amr0d

I am using the H100i with AF120Q's because I wanted purple LEDs and now I recognized that the connector is only a 3-pin instead of a 4-pin and now I am wondering if this has any disadvantages like not being able to change rpm on the fans?


----------



## LuckyStarV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amr0d*
> 
> I am using the H100i with AF120Q's because I wanted purple LEDs and now I recognized that the connector is only a 3-pin instead of a 4-pin and now I am wondering if this has any disadvantages like not being able to change rpm on the fans?


I think you won't be able to control the fans using the H100i/Corsair Link (can't confirm though) but your motherbaord may be able to change the fan speeds

I don't think you should worry much though since the AF120Q's are pretty quiet anyway, you can just leave them at max and not bother changing their speeds


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyStarV*
> 
> I think you won't be able to control the fans using the H100i/Corsair Link (can't confirm though) but your motherbaord may be able to change the fan speeds
> 
> I don't think you should worry much though since the AF120Q's are pretty quiet anyway, you can just leave them at max and not bother changing their speeds


I had limited control with the corsair link software controlling my phobya nb eloops 3pin fans. But the bug was more with the software i think as it was erratic at the best of times. I was using the cooling and lighting kit (commander) with a h100i too.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanblandford*
> 
> I had limited control with the corsair link software controlling my phobya nb eloops 3pin fans. But the bug was more with the software i think as it was erratic at the best of times. I was using the cooling and lighting kit (commander) with a h100i too.


The issue is with Corsair's implementation of the PWM signal. There's a discussion about it in the Aquaero6 thread.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1423333/aquacomputer-aquaero-6/1900#post_21946407
Quote:


> The Corsairs were designed to work with their own proprietary Corsair Link system, so it looks like they didn't care to follow the Intel PWM fan standard for the logic voltage.
> 
> They use 2V, instead of 5V or the newer 3.3V standard, although that's not in itself a problem.
> 
> The problem is that the voltage of the pulse during its "off time", has to stay below a couple tenths of a volt.


----------



## Amr0d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyStarV*
> 
> I think you won't be able to control the fans using the H100i/Corsair Link (can't confirm though) but your motherbaord may be able to change the fan speeds
> 
> I don't think you should worry much though since the AF120Q's are pretty quiet anyway, you can just leave them at max and not bother changing their speeds


Well, I am fine with that if you say that the 1100rpm not that loud. The PC is running on LAN sessions most of the time anyway so it's not a big deal.


----------



## LuckyStarV

Interesting info about the Corsair PWM being different than Intel one. Explains why when I had my H80, the built in control was able to run the fans slower than using motherboard control


----------



## Erick Silver

Hey guys, I have an H60 in my rig ATM and am looking to upgrade to the H100i. Found some on Newegg and eBay. "Manufacturer refurbished" is part of the description. Would it be a safe buy to purchase this at $69.99 with free shipping? Or is it to big a risk on a refurb?


----------



## LuckyStarV

I believe there is only 30 days warranty on manufacturer refurbished coolers. So that would be a major concern for myself personally. Really depends if 5 years of warranty (regular warranty) is worth $40 for you. Quality wise, I would say the refurbished one might actually be better since they have to run some extra tests on it.


----------



## Mergatroid

^ A couple of other guys in this thread have purchased refurbished Corsair Hydro coolers, and I have never heard any complaints from them. I agree, if the $40 for a 5-year-warranty isn't a big consideration, then it looks like a pretty good deal.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

All Corsair refurbs have a 1 year warranty now from us.. it used to be 90 days. That change was made I believe last year, Nov. So Corsair refurb coolers nowadays are such a steal


----------



## Erick Silver

Thanks for the response Joe. You just helped me to make my decision!


----------



## LuckyStarV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> All Corsair refurbs have a 1 year warranty now from us.. it used to be 90 days. That change was made I believe last year, Nov. So Corsair refurb coolers nowadays are such a steal


Nice, makes them a great option!

I think the stores need to be updated on their info. I see a range of 30-90 days warranty being offered, with NCIX saying 90 days and Newegg saying 30 days


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> All Corsair refurbs have a 1 year warranty now from us.. it used to be 90 days. That change was made I believe last year, Nov. So Corsair refurb coolers nowadays are such a steal


That's pretty sweet. I think it makes the refurbished units well worth the price.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyStarV*
> 
> Nice, makes them a great option!
> 
> I think the stores need to be updated on their info. I see a range of 30-90 days warranty being offered, with NCIX saying 90 days and Newegg saying 30 days


I am almost certain that we have communicated this change with our re sellers last year when we implemented the policy change.

But yes, Corsair refurbs will have a full year warranty from us, thus, making them worth considering when buying a hardware


----------



## DrockinWV

I just purchased a H100i and installed it this evening, and also installed the Link software, but having some trouble understanding it. I do not see my fans listed on there in order to change modes on them, and also the color of the LEDs on the pump? Maybe im just over looking it but have yet to find it. I have noticed it has my GPU listed on there for core temp and fan speed and want to know if that is correct? Any help is appreciated!!


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> I just purchased a H100i and installed it this evening, and also installed the Link software, but having some trouble understanding it. I do not see my fans listed on there in order to change modes on them, and also the color of the LEDs on the pump? Maybe im just over looking it but have yet to find it. I have noticed it has my GPU listed on there for core temp and fan speed and want to know if that is correct? Any help is appreciated!!


what operating system?


----------



## LuckyStarV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> I am almost certain that we have communicated this change with our re sellers last year when we implemented the policy change.
> 
> But yes, Corsair refurbs will have a full year warranty from us, thus, making them worth considering when buying a hardware


You can never have to much liquid cooling









Newegg seems to have missed the memo :/ [warranty shown in Specifications section under Quick Info]

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181034
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181061
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181038
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181038
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181057
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181061
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> I just purchased a H100i and installed it this evening, and also installed the Link software, but having some trouble understanding it. I do not see my fans listed on there in order to change modes on them, and also the color of the LEDs on the pump? Maybe im just over looking it but have yet to find it. I have noticed it has my GPU listed on there for core temp and fan speed and want to know if that is correct? Any help is appreciated!!


So you can see the pump speed and liquid temp but not the fans and LED?

The GPU temps and fan speed are correct for me


----------



## rene mauricio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Corsair refurbs will have a full year warranty from us, thus, making them worth considering when buying a hardware


Does that apply to everything or just coolers?


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanblandford*
> 
> what operating system?


Using Windows 8.1 64 bit OS


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyStarV*
> 
> So you can see the pump speed and liquid temp but not the fans and LED?
> 
> The GPU temps and fan speed are correct for me


I cannot see pump speed, and the only fan speed I see is for my GPU


----------



## DiaSin

Google docs says that the registration form for the newer units, like my h80i, cannot be found.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rene mauricio*
> 
> Does that apply to everything or just coolers?


Any Corsair hardware refurbs, not exclusive to coolers.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Google docs says that the registration form for the newer units, like my h80i, cannot be found.


We don't really require product registration. Just make sure to keep your invoice, or we can always go by lot #. But for less hassle, definitely keep your invoice.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> We don't really require product registration. Just make sure to keep your invoice, or we can always go by lot #. But for less hassle, definitely keep your invoice.


No, no. I meant the form to put my name on this clubs roster. Although.. One question.. does the warranty on the h80i go by the original buyer or does it travel with the unit? I got my H80i from a friend who only used it about a week before he had to part out his computer to pay some unexpected bills.


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Using Windows 8.1 64 bit OS


Are you using the beta windows 8.1 link software/driver package? When i had my h100i i spent ages sorting out these issues theres a thread i started about it in this watercooling forum. Search up h100i windows and my username.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanblandford*
> 
> Are you using the beta windows 8.1 link software/driver package? When i had my h100i i spent ages sorting out these issues theres a thread i started about it in this watercooling forum. Search up h100i windows and my username.


Wow that is very disappointing, has no one been able to get the Link software working correctly on Win 8.1? I downloaded Version 2.6.5214 off of Corsairs website.


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Wow that is very disappointing, has no one been able to get the Link software working correctly on Win 8.1? I downloaded Version 2.6.5214 off of Corsairs website.


I did get mine working and it was ok (i also went out and bought the cooling and lighting kit along with the commander module etc and they didnt like the h100i or 8.1 either but thats another story)

I since have gone custom loop and fan controller and custom lighting.

The main thing windows 8.1 issues stem from was putting the usb port to sleep after shutting down. There is a registry fix on the corsair forums to make it work in 8/8.1 and the drivers i think now address it. But if you're unsure try that fix. What was happening was if i unplugged the usbheader then plugged it back into a new header and restarted it would recognise the h100i and fans but as soon as the pc restarted again or was turned off and on the usb wasnt recognising it. The registry fix was/is a workaround.

Have you had any luck?


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanblandford*
> 
> I did get mine working and it was ok (i also went out and bought the cooling and lighting kit along with the commander module etc and they didnt like the h100i or 8.1 either but thats another story)
> 
> I since have gone custom loop and fan controller and custom lighting.
> 
> The main thing windows 8.1 issues stem from was putting the usb port to sleep after shutting down. There is a registry fix on the corsair forums to make it work in 8/8.1 and the drivers i think now address it. But if you're unsure try that fix. What was happening was if i unplugged the usbheader then plugged it back into a new header and restarted it would recognise the h100i and fans but as soon as the pc restarted again or was turned off and on the usb wasnt recognising it. The registry fix was/is a workaround.
> 
> Have you had any luck?


No luck as of yet, I will try searching for that driver to see if that will help. Its just really disappointing I went from a noctua nh-u14s that had pretty good cooling, to getting this H100i thinking I could keep my temps down and overclock my cpu some more, and as of right now the temps are not any better at all


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> No luck as of yet, I will try searching for that driver to see if that will help. Its just really disappointing I went from a noctua nh-u14s that had pretty good cooling, to getting this H100i thinking I could keep my temps down and overclock my cpu some more, and as of right now the temps are not any better at all


Yeah my thoughts exactly hence why i now have a custom loop. Especially once id spent the money on all the link accessories it just wasnt as good as i had hoped. Its an expensive hobby haha


----------



## PontiacGTX

Hey I am thinking on switching to a CLC but before I want to know what is the failure rate and if some of you have ever had a problem with a corsair h100i and you had returned to Aircooling?

Thanks


----------



## DrockinWV

Well as of right now my link software doesn't work properly on Windows 8.1, so the cooling is no better with my new H100i over the Noctua NH-U14S. I've been pretty disappointed so far.


----------



## PontiacGTX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Well as of right now my link software doesn't work properly on Windows 8.1, so the cooling is no better with my new H100i over the Noctua NH-U14S. I've been pretty disappointed so far.


then it doesnt worth to change froma d14 to a h100i?


----------



## DrockinWV

Not worth it unless the link software is fixed


----------



## LuckyStarV

What would be cool would be if Corsair offered something similar to the Swiftech H220 that could be expanded in the future


----------



## NKrader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyStarV*
> 
> What would be cool would be if Corsair offered something similar to the Swiftech H220 that could be expanded in the future


most people who clc dont see the point in upgrading, e.g. they use a clc


----------



## rene mauricio

If I do not plan on using the Corsair Link software with my H100i (or can't because i'm on Windows 8.1) should / do I have to update the firmware?


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Well as of right now my link software doesn't work properly on Windows 8.1, so the cooling is no better with my new H100i over the Noctua NH-U14S. I've been pretty disappointed so far.


Ill try and find the links i used to guide me through getting mine working under 8.1 for you
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rene mauricio*
> 
> If I do not plan on using the Corsair Link software with my H100i (or can't because i'm on Windows 8.1) should / do I have to update the firmware?


Itll just have the older firmware on it and will still work fine.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanblandford*
> 
> Ill try and find the links i used to guide me through getting mine working under 8.1 for you


That would be fantastic if you could find it!!


----------



## PontiacGTX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PontiacGTX*
> 
> Hey I am thinking on switching to a CLC but before I want to know what is the failure rate and if some of you have ever had a problem with a corsair h100i and you had returned to Aircooling?
> 
> Thanks


someone else?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PontiacGTX*
> 
> someone else?


I haven't had any "show-stopping" issues with my H100i, with the exception of the issue that the Link software has with Windows 8.1. However, even though the software wasn't working properly, the H100i was still running as it should have....


----------



## PontiacGTX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I haven't had any "show-stopping" issues with my H100i, with the exception of the issue that the Link software has with Windows 8.1. However, even though the software wasn't working properly, the H100i was still running as it should have....


at about hundred or throusands of customers reporting failures? Plus the noise is a big concern


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PontiacGTX*
> 
> at about hundred or throusands of customers reporting failures? Plus the noise is a big concern


The only thing I have heard about multiple failures on the H100i/h80i are on refurbs. I think most of the failures were the original H100/H80. The only noise from my H80i is the two fans, I cannot even HEAR the pump. Seeing as the H100i has the same pump and the same pair of fans all you need to do is get better fans. The Corsair SP series are fairly affordable, and are FAR quieter than the H series fans, even though the stock fans on the H100i/H80i are supposed to be nearly the same as the SP series.


----------



## nathanblandford

Ok so here is the link i used to get my h100i working under 8.1

@DrockinWV

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=120962&page=2

The post by thatualle1970 is the manual fix.

I edited the registry to disable selective suspend on the h100i when it is plugged in. If you are curious about what all the registry entries mean just keep reading that corsair forum topic. It does work even with the 8.1beta package. I downloaded the beta package in hopes that it would help my corsair link commander hook up to and control my h100i.

A worst case solution if your usb headers arent picking up the h100i is to plug the mini usb into a full size usb port on the back or front of the case to test if that cable works instead of the internal header. Thats a whole other kettle of fish though.

Good luck


----------



## DrockinWV

Thank you nathanblandford!!!! I will give this a try later on today, I appreciate all of your help!!


----------



## PontiacGTX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> The only thing I have heard about multiple failures on the H100i/h80i are on refurbs. I think most of the failures were the original H100/H80. The only noise from my H80i is the two fans, I cannot even HEAR the pump. Seeing as the H100i has the same pump and the same pair of fans all you need to do is get better fans. The Corsair SP series are fairly affordable, and are FAR quieter than the H series fans, even though the stock fans on the H100i/H80i are supposed to be nearly the same as the SP series.


even under extreme performance?,someone got an h100i and the pump stopped working after a pair of months


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Thank you nathanblandford!!!! I will give this a try later on today, I appreciate all of your help!!


no worries mate let me know how you go








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PontiacGTX*
> 
> even under extreme performance?,someone got an h100i and the pump stopped working after a pair of months


yeah but the 5 year warranty on offer is pretty encouraging. I had mine for a couple of months and things were fine and i had it overclocked for 98% of the time, (4670k @ 4.5Ghz 1.25v)


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PontiacGTX*
> 
> then it doesnt worth to change froma d14 to a h100i?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PontiacGTX*
> 
> someone else?
Click to expand...

Several of us made that exact change over 2 years ago [D14-->H100] No problems best thing we ever did to improve performance and get greater access to our mobo's ... just search my user name ... Mergatroids etc etc ...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> The only thing I have heard about multiple failures on the H100i/h80i are on refurbs. *I think most of the failures were the original H100/H80.* The only noise from my H80i is the two fans, I cannot even HEAR the pump. Seeing as the H100i has the same pump and the same pair of fans all you need to do is get better fans. The Corsair SP series are fairly affordable, and are FAR quieter than the H series fans, even though the stock fans on the H100i/H80i are supposed to be nearly the same as the SP series.


This is nonsense, the original H80/H100 may even have a better track record then the "I" series because of the initial problems w/software ...


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanblandford*
> 
> no worries mate let me know how you go


Worked FLAWLESSLY!!! Thank you so much, super easy fix, now I can control my fan speed and LEDs on the H100i in my link software!!!


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Worked FLAWLESSLY!!! Thank you so much, super easy fix, now I can control my fan speed and LEDs on the H100i in my link software!!!


glad it worked. Its pretty sad that the software still doesnt have this fix built in but thats why forums like this exist and are so helpful.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanblandford*
> 
> glad it worked. Its pretty sad that the software still doesnt have this fix built in but thats why forums like this exist and are so helpful.


No kidding, those posts were from September of last year, I think Corsair needs to get their software in order before releasing products! Makes no sence to me to release something and make claims of what it can do, and then not even work!!


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> No, no. I meant the form to put my name on this clubs roster. Although.. One question.. does the warranty on the h80i go by the original buyer or does it travel with the unit? I got my H80i from a friend who only used it about a week before he had to part out his computer to pay some unexpected bills.


Technically, the warranty would only be applicable to the original owner. But in your case, since the original owner has only owned the cooler for a week, I can make that as an exception. Just make sure to get his receipt.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> No kidding, those posts were from September of last year, I think Corsair needs to get their software in order before releasing products! Makes no sence to me to release something and make claims of what it can do, and then not even work!!


There is a new version of Corsair Link that was released to the public last week. This version has included most of the bugs that people have been experiencing. I would suggest that you give this one shot and let me know if it solves your problem. *Corsair Link 2.6*


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> There is a new version of Corsair Link that was released to the public last week. This version has included most of the bugs that people have been experiencing. I would suggest that you give this one shot and let me know if it solves your problem. *Corsair Link 2.6*


I downloaded Version 2.6.5214 on Thursday of last week when I received the cooler, has it been updated since then?


----------



## DiaSin

@OverClocker55 When will you fix the google doc for the new units? I have an h80i and want onto the list.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> I downloaded Version 2.6.5214 on Thursday of last week when I received the cooler, has it been updated since then?


Version 2.6.5214 is the latest version. What kind of problems are you seeing?


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Version 2.6.5214 is the latest version. What kind of problems are you seeing?


On the link software I was not able to change fan speed profiles or the color of the LEDs on the pump. The software did not even recognize the H100i.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Not worth it unless the link software is fixed


You could just plug the fans into your motherboard and let it control them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PontiacGTX*
> 
> at about hundred or throusands of customers reporting failures? Plus the noise is a big concern


Thousands? I doubt that. I would expect something like a 6% failure rate, which is normal in consumer electronics fields. I have never heard of any unusually high H100 or H80 failures. We have two H100s here in my home and both have been working like champs since they were first released. No problems at all. If there were thousands of failures out there, Corsair would likely be reconsidering who they purchase product from. Out of personal experience with the H50, H60, H70, H80, H100 and H110, not one of them has failed so far. I have sold lots of them, and when people complain it's usually user error during installation (you would just be amazed how many people can't even install a screw but think they are "enthusiasts"). The only major issue I've come across, with my small window of experience, is the software issue on the "i" series.
There is a fix out there for some of the "i"units that had a bit of a noisy pump. The fans are pretty simple 120mm fans, they are no more noisy than most high performance fans running at over 2000 RPM.
Personally, I have found a good fan controller, or using the PWM control headers on the motherboard, offer the best compromise between noise and performance. Unless under extremely high CPU load, the most noise in my system always comes from my two reference HD6970 cards.


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> You could just plug the fans into your motherboard and let it control them.


Yeah thats fine but not when you also go ahead and use the lighting and cooling kit and want to use custom fan curves and temperature sensors along with the lighting and you have to use a registry edit to even get it to recognise the product let alone using 2 internal usb headers because the link commander wont interface with the h100i unders windows 8.1 with the beta software. I ubderstand that its simple to connect fans to the motherboard but it would be nice if the link software was less of a hassle to work with and use. It more annoyed me once i had it all together that it didnt work well with each other. I got it working in the end before i stopped using it. It was just annoying.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Thousands? I doubt that. I would expect something like a 6% failure rate, which is normal in consumer electronics fields. I have never heard of any unusually high H100 or H80 failures. We have two H100s here in my home and both have been working like champs since they were first released. No problems at all. If there were thousands of failures out there, Corsair would likely be reconsidering who they purchase product from. Out of personal experience with the H50, H60, H70, H80, H100 and H110, not one of them has failed so far..


Yeah. The only failure I have personally heard anything about was my friends REFURBISHED H100. He got one that had air in the system, returned it for another refurb and has had no issues. I have seen mentions of failures elsewhere, but the one I just mentioned is hte only one from anyone I know.


----------



## Kozanitis96

Hi, I have the H60 with the famous griding/annoying noise.
That ticking sound is going to drive me nuts so I thought I would ask for help here.
The pump get power from a 12V 3-pin connector, if I plug the pump's connector into a 12V->7V adapter in order to slow it down will I damage anything?
Is there a posibility of destroying my whole pc?
Any help appriciated cause I'm going to do it now.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> You could just plug the fans into your motherboard and let it control them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanblandford*
> 
> Yeah thats fine but not when you also go ahead and use the lighting and cooling kit and want to use custom fan curves and temperature sensors along with the lighting and you have to use a registry edit to even get it to recognise the product let alone using 2 internal usb headers because the link commander wont interface with the h100i unders windows 8.1 with the beta software. I ubderstand that its simple to connect fans to the motherboard but it would be nice if the link software was less of a hassle to work with and use. It more annoyed me once i had it all together that it didnt work well with each other. I got it working in the end before i stopped using it. It was just annoying.


Nathanblandford said it right on! I bought the H100i because I wanted the control and customization of the product using the link software, just plugging it into another fan header Im not getting what I paid for, It that were the case I would have stayed with my Noctua NH-U14S.


----------



## bajer29

OK, so I have decided to go with the H100i because it's on sale on Amazon. I'm either planning on doing this case mod so I can reattach the top mesh cover:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chjj1Q07mH8

OR Try to install the rad where the bottom HDD Cage is now; similar to this (but I will be removing the bottom cage and possibly the front 200mm fan):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_pxJ6JECQuQ#t=287

Suggestions if any?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> OK, so I have decided to go with the H100i because it's on sale on Amazon. I'm either planning on doing this case mod so I can reattach the top mesh cover:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chjj1Q07mH8
> 
> OR Try to install the rad where the bottom HDD Cage is now; similar to this (but I will be removing the bottom cage and possibly the front 200mm fan):
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_pxJ6JECQuQ#t=287
> 
> Suggestions if any?


I definitely vote for the 1st mod, "Top Exhaust". I and many others who have been in this thread for years would confirm this is the most popular and successful setup when overclocking your components. Plus I think visually it looks much better, cleaner case setup which also improves general case circulation/airflow!
We have all tried several other variations and for most of us this works the best. But to be honest it has been confirmed over and over again that a push/pull is only marginally better than an individual 2 fan push or pull setup, it is overkill for the pump/cold plate and radiators ability to dissipate heat. In my case only a 1-2c improvement with my listed OC's was seen. Hope that helps


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I definitely vote for the 1st mod, "Top Exhaust". I and many others who have been in this thread for years would confirm this is the most popular and successful setup when overclocking your components. Plus I think visually it looks much better, cleaner case setup which also improves general case circulation/airflow!
> We have all tried several other variations and for most of us this works the best. But to be honest it has been confirmed over and over again that a push/pull is only marginally better than an individual 2 fan push or pull setup, it is overkill for the pump/cold plate and radiators ability to dissipate heat. In my case only a 1-2c improvement with my listed OC's was seen. Hope that helps


+1

Thanks for the opinion









So, do you have the rad fans drawing air from the outside and into the case? Does this effect your GPU temps? I have two (2) 120s on my side panel that draw cool air in onto the GPU so it can exhaust out the back. Should I reverse these side fans to allow heat to exit the case next to the GPU or do you think it's more beneficial to have fresh air going into the case next to the GPU?

My concern is changing the top fans (attached to the rad) from exhaust to intake will mess my current airflow up a bit.


----------



## LuckyStarV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kozanitis96*
> 
> Hi, I have the H60 with the famous griding/annoying noise.
> That ticking sound is going to drive me nuts so I thought I would ask for help here.
> The pump get power from a 12V 3-pin connector, if I plug the pump's connector into a 12V->7V adapter in order to slow it down will I damage anything?
> Is there a posibility of destroying my whole pc?
> Any help appriciated cause I'm going to do it now.


I'm not sure the voltage modulator will be that great an option though you could try. I would think if you motherboard allows control of 3 pin fans/connectors from bios, to reduce the pump speed there


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Corsair Joseph could you please check your private messages please. I've got some questions regarding a Corsair Hydro Series product. Thank you sir.

Sincerely,
Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kozanitis96*
> 
> Hi, I have the H60 with the famous griding/annoying noise.
> That ticking sound is going to drive me nuts so I thought I would ask for help here.
> The pump get power from a 12V 3-pin connector, if I plug the pump's connector into a 12V->7V adapter in order to slow it down will I damage anything?
> Is there a posibility of destroying my whole pc?
> Any help appriciated cause I'm going to do it now.


If the pump is that noisy you could always RMA it.
You could also try the fix they came up with on the Corsair forum. You add a diode (I think it's a 1N4002) in series with the 12V line, and that seems to have reduced or eliminated the noise. I can't say for sure it would work with an H60, but considering they only cost about 50 cents, it's worth a try. Just wire it in series, with the stripe toward the pump. This will only cut the voltage by about .7V so it shouldn't harm anything.


----------



## Dr Slaughter

Has anyone here modded a H60? Please post how you did it.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFangs1381*
> 
> Corsair Joseph could you please check your private messages please. I've got some questions regarding a Corsair Hydro Series product. Thank you sir.
> 
> Sincerely,
> Wolf_Fangs1381


I think he's in a different time zone than you. Just be patient


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> +1
> 
> Thanks for the opinion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, do you have the rad fans drawing air from the outside and into the case? Does this effect your GPU temps? I have two (2) 120s on my side panel that draw cool air in onto the GPU so it can exhaust out the back. Should I reverse these side fans to allow heat to exit the case next to the GPU or do you think it's more beneficial to have fresh air going into the case next to the GPU?
> 
> My concern is changing the top fans (attached to the rad) from exhaust to intake will mess my current airflow up a bit.


I'd keep it just the way you have it ... read carefully where I say "Top Exhaust" also just like in the video









You could try reversing the side fans but I don't think it will help and may as you said, mess up your overall case airflow. Several months ago I went from reference "blower type cooling" GPU's (rear exhaust) to the aftermarket twin fan GPU HSF, like yours, and was worried I may be dumping much more heat into the case causing a significant rise in my cpu temps ... NOT true, didn't happen, at most a 1c difference. But also note that when I setup my radiator as "Top Exhaust" I put in a highflow Silverstone 120mm fan as a front intake just above the CM stock 200mm fan to get more fresh air to the rad/H100,. It works so well I only run it at 800-1100 rpm's quiet









You can experiment around with different fan setups, but like the majority here your on the right track


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I'd keep it just the way you have it ... read carefully where I say "Top Exhaust" also just like in the video


Derp









OK, it comes Friday so I should have all weekend to play around with the different setups before I decide to take a dremel to my case









Thanks again for the info!


----------



## scottath

Initial build of my new system. (Corsair 350D)
Need to figure a different video card to get, but its a work in progress.



H110 JUST fits at the top. Need to get some adapter cables for the fans (only one pwm header) but forfills my goal all ok. Little surprise corsair didnt include a PWM Y-cable....
Left the front fan unplugged, and will likely leave the rear one unplugged also. Want a near silent build. The video card is louder than the rear fan for the moment anyhow.
Its so dark inside too, coming from my mega Lian Li v2010b with 5 White LED fans to having no additional LEDs at all.


----------



## UZ7

Anyone know how well an H105 fits a 350D?


----------



## scottath

The H110 fits in mine, so id assume the smaller H105 would be a easy fit. Such a fiddle to get the H110 in.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scottath*
> 
> Initial build of my new system. (Corsair 350D)
> Need to figure a different video card to get, but its a work in progress.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> H110 JUST fits at the top. Need to get some adapter cables for the fans (only one pwm header) but forfills my goal all ok. Little surprise corsair didnt include a PWM Y-cable....
> Left the front fan unplugged, and will likely leave the rear one unplugged also. Want a near silent build. The video card is louder than the rear fan for the moment anyhow.
> Its so dark inside too, coming from my mega Lian Li v2010b with 5 White LED fans to having no additional LEDs at all.


DO NOT run a liquid cooler fanless. The coolant will just keep getting hotter and hotter without the fans dissipating heat off of the radiator. Just buy better fans if you want it quiet.


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> DO NOT run a liquid cooler fanless. The coolant will just keep getting hotter and hotter without the fans dissipating heat off of the radiator. Just buy better fans if you want it quiet.


i'm pretty sure he's talking about his case fans


----------



## LuckyStarV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UZ7*
> 
> Anyone know how well an H105 fits a 350D?


The H105 is a bit thicker than the H100i/H110 so your main issue will be motherboard PWM heatsink clearance so you might want to check that out


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UZ7*
> 
> Anyone know how well an H105 fits a 350D?


There will be a clearance issue between the rad and top of your MB. We didn't list the H105 being compatible with 350D case on our *Case and Cooling Compatibility list* .


----------



## darkelixa

How good is a h100i at keep an i7 4770k cool?


----------



## CravinR1

I have a H90 with my 3770k @ 4.5 24/7 oc


----------



## darkelixa

And do you get decent temps?


----------



## CravinR1

Around 80 on highest core in prime 95 and 60's while general use and gaming, I think its pretty good


----------



## Erick Silver

Hey guys, need a little help.

I found a H100i at a good price, but it does not come with any of the AMD Mounting hardware. Will the mounting hardware from my H60 work with the H100i?

Thanks.


----------



## bajer29

Getting an error trying to add myself to the new series owner's list so I'm giving up. Here are some pictures of my build. Happy to have the H100i be part of it.









I'm getting highest of 96C in Prime 95 at 4.2 GHz 1.3V. Gunna try to drop voltage and see if I can get a better temp.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## scottath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> DO NOT run a liquid cooler fanless. The coolant will just keep getting hotter and hotter without the fans dissipating heat off of the radiator. Just buy better fans if you want it quiet.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanblandford*
> 
> i'm pretty sure he's talking about his case fans


Yea - just talking about the case fans - keeping at least one of the 140mm fans running all the time, will get a y-cable for the second shortly.
Theoretically, convection currents of hot air from the video/sound cards would begin to make a slight flow of air upwards and through the rad too...sure not to the effect that a fan would have, but it would still not overheat the whole thing, probably come to rest at approx 45c or so (from testing so far) Will be running with at least one fan going though


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Hey guys, need a little help.
> 
> I found a H100i at a good price, but it does not come with any of the AMD Mounting hardware. Will the mounting hardware from my H60 work with the H100i?
> 
> Thanks.


I might be able to help you out with the mounting hw. PM me.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


----------



## twerk

Would anyone like to takeover this thread?

It's one of the most popular clubs on the forum and it's been 9 months since the OP was online. It would be nice to have an active owner who keeps it updated with new products, reviews etc. PM me if interested.


----------



## bill1024

Corsair H90
I have an Asus P6T Deluxe motherboard x58 1366 with a Xeon hexcore X5650 2.6ghz overclocked to 4ghz.
I had a stock heat pipe Intel heat sink / fan that were for the i980 hexcore cpu.

They said " It will fit most cases that have a 140mm fan. Well not so much on my Antec 300 mid-tower w/140mm fan on top and bottom mounted PSU.
Problem the Rad and fan hit the heat sinks on the MB when mounted inside up top.
Solution, cut out the top with tin-snips and mount Rad. on top with a fan and have another fan mounted inside for a push-pull config.
It came out looking good, would rather it be contained inside.
I put a 140mm fan grill on to protect the fan.

Outcome, got it all hooked up, idle at 25c, used to be 30c, running 12 threads of BOINC Prime grid high temps reach 59c, down from 73-74c. Not too bad a 14c-15c deg drop in temps.
Folding at home SMP it was 62-65c and with the H90 temps are 52-54c, again not bad at all. A good 10c drop folding.


----------



## NorKris

H80i has this internal usb header used to control fan speeds and temps, what happends if u have a h100i too?
will the software see 2 corsair coolers both connected to your system?


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> H80i has this internal usb header used to control fan speeds and temps, what happends if u have a h100i too?
> will the software see 2 corsair coolers both connected to your system?


Yes it will see both


----------



## bajer29

Can you use and external USB port? This has probably been answered, but I can't find the response.


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Can you use and external USB port? This has probably been answered, but I can't find the response.


yeah you can just use a usb cable to suit and you're good to go:thumb:


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twerk*
> 
> Would anyone like to takeover this thread?
> 
> It's one of the most popular clubs on the forum and it's been 9 months since the OP was online. It would be nice to have an active owner who keeps it updated with new products, reviews etc. PM me if interested.


Bump for this.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanblandford*
> 
> yeah you can just use a usb cable to suit and you're good to go:thumb:


Awesome, for some reason my mobo only has one 2.0 header and one 3.0 header which I'm using for my front panel. Thanks for the reply +1


----------



## Capone24

Does anyone know if the H90i will fit in the exhaust fan spot of the HAF 922? If not then where do most people mount it?


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Capone24*
> 
> Does anyone know if the H90i will fit in the exhaust fan spot of the HAF 922? If not then where do most people mount it?


Um.. Do you mean the H90 or the H80i? I don't think there is an H90i.


----------



## Capone24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Um.. Do you mean the H90 or the H80i? I don't think there is an H90i.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181036


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Capone24*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181036


No, that will not fit. That is a 140mm radiator. The rear exhaust on that case is 120mm. Just go for the h80i if you don't have the h90 already.


----------



## Capone24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> No, that will not fit. That is a 140mm radiator. The rear exhaust on that case is 120mm. Just go for the h80i if you don't have the h90 already.


Ok thanks


----------



## mohit9206

Guys i have read that H40 is not very good but its the only liquid cooler in my budget.My question is go for H40 or go for air cooler like Hyper 212 ?


----------



## bill1024

The H110 referb. was at Tiger direct for 34$ after a 10$ rebate a few weeks ago.
Keep your eyes open at Tiger or new egg for referbs on sale.
H80i and H101 have been off and on lately.

I did pick up a couple CM 212 referbs right from the CM web site for 9.95 each.
That was last Fall, not sure if they have any in stock at this point in time. You can check out their web site,


----------



## CravinR1

I have a half 912 and used 3 screws to mount the h90 on top. See my profile pic


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mohit9206*
> 
> Guys i have read that H40 is not very good but its the only liquid cooler in my budget.My question is go for H40 or go for air cooler like Hyper 212 ?


If you like air-coolers, and have the room for one, they are a less expensive alternative and perform very well. I use an AIO water cooler because I like having the large weight mounted on my case instead of the cpu, and I like how it opens up the interior of the case. If you have to meet a budget for your cooler, and you don't mind them, then the large air-coolers would be a great option. Of course, as bill1024 pointed out, getting a refurb would also do the trick if you can find one. Check Corsair's website and, as mentioned, tiger and the egg.
If you do go air, make sure the one you choose is not going to obscure something you need on your motherboard, like a set of RAM sockets.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mohit9206*
> 
> Guys i have read that H40 is not very good but its the only liquid cooler in my budget.My question is go for H40 or go for air cooler like Hyper 212 ?


They are not that really bad, they are fairly decent i suppose, it's the H40's aluminum coldplate that's not really comparable to its big brothers like H50 and H70 having the copper coldplate. They are very practical in terms of price and a good alternative to replace your stock cooler with out taking a lot of real estate in your rig. Then again, there are better air coolers out there that you can choose, and they perform as good as the H40 liquid cooler. If pricing is a concern, then refurb AIO coolers is something that you need to consider.


----------



## Fred B

Got the H60 edition 2013 but the cooler does not fit inside the casing so it is mounted on a bracket behind the PC , few year ago i had the H50 mounted on the same way and getting good results with the H50 . The air must be cool to cool the high v core and high fsb down to manageable temperatures when stress testing


----------



## Dr Slaughter




----------



## Mergatroid

^



Sweet....


----------



## JeremyFenn

Heya people!! Can you add me to the cool kids Corsair Hydro club?







I'm rocking a H110 in my rig.


----------



## Luckael

Corsair 250d with H100i


----------



## darkelixa

Either going to go a corsair h100i in push pull with noctua fans and replacing the loud rubbish corsair ones or going a noctua nh-d14, still not sure which to go as i fear the h100i can leak and destroy my new build


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Either going to go a corsair h100i in push pull with noctua fans and replacing the loud rubbish corsair ones or going a noctua nh-d14, still not sure which to go as i fear the h100i can leak and destroy my new build


The term "water cooling" is a misnomer. Whether it is a custom loop or an AIO cooler you use a non-conductive coolant, not water.

That aside, the odds of it spouting a leak if you don't mistreat it are slim to none.


----------



## RX7-2nr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> The term "water cooling" is a misnomer. Whether it is a custom loop or an AIO cooler you use a non-conductive coolant, not water.
> 
> That aside, the odds of it spouting a leak if you don't mistreat it are slim to none.


Negative in pretty much everything. Wate has got to be the most commonly used coolant, it's also one of the best performing. "Non-Conductive Coolant" is the misnomer. All of those coolants become conductive after being ran through the metal parts for a while and becoming ionized.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> Negative in pretty much everything. Water is probably the most commonly used coolant."Non-Conductive Coolant" is the misnomer. All of those coolants become conductive after being ran through the metal parts for a while and becoming ionized.


Really? Everything I ever read said that water was the worst thing you could possibly put in a liquid cooling system.
See, this is one of the many reasons I joined this site a couple of months ago, to learn stuff I didn't know and to learn what knowledge I already had was incorrect.


----------



## RX7-2nr

Aside from water, what would you put in it? Most "coolants" are just water with dye, corrosion inhibitors and biocide premixed.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> Aside from water, what would you put in it? Most "coolants" are just water with dye, corrosion inhibitors and biocide premixed.


I was always told to only buy coolants labeled as non-conductive. For example this or this.


----------



## darkelixa

So if the AIO cooler leaks it wont do any damage is that what you are saying?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> I was always told to only buy coolants labeled as non-conductive. For example this or this.


It's a marketing claim. FluidXP contains primarily de-ionized water. There's no magic in it, just corrosion protectors, biocides and a surfectant. While the coolant starts off having low conductivity, as you run the coolant through your system, free ions from the metals will ionise the water. This happens slowly, and the corrosion protectors will inhibit the effect. But it's there and so the conductivity increases.

Primochill ICE doesn't list ingredients but I'd imagine based on the "NON-TOXIC biodegradable" it's probably mainly DI water and propylene glycol mix just like FluidXP, EKoolant, and plenty of others.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> So if the AIO cooler leaks it wont do any damage is that what you are saying?


Getting a leak on your graphics card or motherboard doesn't mean it will immediately cause a short circuit. But it can and does happen, and there's no *coolant manufacturer* who will actually back up their claim and replace your dead GPU. AIO vendor like Corsair might replace your hardware, but only because it's a sealed product and the tubes are not supposed to come loose or burst. They wouldn't claim their fluid is non-conductive.


----------



## darkelixa

Yep thats what I was afraid of, it leaking from one of the connectors and dripping / spurting onto the gpu or mainboard and frying my equipment. Its a build i cant do for along time as my wedding is taking all my funds from me


----------



## WolfFangs1381

I had a liquid cooled system a few years ago. Had it up and running for a month and loved it. Gaming was awesome as temperatures were fantastic. Then my hard drive died on me and during the process of replacing it the power connection to the pump got loose. The water block that I had a copper base and an acrylic top and because the cpu got so hot it melted the acrylic enough to make the fittings sag. I quickly turned the power off but coolant was already all over the place. Ruined my mobo,cpu,graphics card,and sound card I had. Luckily where my father worked they had a CNC machine and the kid who ran it made me a new acrylic top for my waterblock. I bought new components and got it running again for another 7 months before a faulty switch on the psu shorted the mobo and cpu. After that all happened I decided to build a new system all air cooled because of that experience. Liquid cooling coolant will ruin computer electronics like WiSK said. You just have to avoid the leaks and mishaps that can happen when liquid cooling like I had. I told myself after that I would never do liquid cooling again because of it. But that has subsided some as I bought a Corsair H100i to cool my cpu. I am still very weary about doing that. If everything works out I may build another liquid cooled system as I like how some of your guy's system are done. One thing I did learned,is to stay away from liquid cooling a mid tower cases next time if I do try it again. Just not enough room in there. lol

Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## darkelixa

So all and all after loosing all that equipment you went back to a h100i?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> I was always told to only buy coolants labeled as non-conductive. For example this or this.


Actually, pure distilled water is an insulator. It's the impurities in the liquid that can cause it to conduct. I would have no problem spilling pure water or one of the liquids you linked to, on my board, and then rinsing it off with distilled water and drying it under hot air. If this was done quickly, I don't think it would damage anything.

In fact, I have seen computer builds where the case was filled with water (literally "under water") and the computer was running without any problems.

For example:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KMlck3mqOv8

The biggest problem with leaking fluids, especially water, is that they can corrode the component leads, solder and any traces that may be exposed, as well as plated-through holes on the board. Customers who bring us water-damaged boards or devices at work get the greatest repair success when they bring it in same day and it hasn't had time to dry yet. Rinsing it with distilled water (preferably hot) and then drying it quickly with heat can often get the board working again. If it's been sitting for a few days, corrosion and impurities left behind after the liquid evaporates will usually damage the board beyond repair.

Of course, Corsair stands behind their products. If there was any company out there I would trust to help me out if a factory defect in their aio cooler caused a leak, it would be Corsair. Their 5 year warranty also helps in the confidence department.

In any case, I wouldn't worry about putting an all-in-one water cooler in a computer. The chances of it leaking from factory defect are pretty slim. If a person doesn't trust themself enough to install and use an aio water cooler, then perhaps they shouldn't.


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> So all and all after loosing all that equipment you went back to a h100i?


For a simple answer,yes.

It was my first go at liquid cooling while being egged on by a friend of mine who got me into building computers. He was a machinist and had his work computer was liquid cooled. He even had the liquid loop running through a freezer! But now that I know more than I did back then and my cpu cooler not going to work how I wanted,I figured I'd try an AIO liquid cooler. For that short month I had that system running I was impressed with how much the overall performance was. My temps at idle was 8° C and at full load it was 28° C. So those temps from a previous build got me thinking about an AIO and the fact I'm overclocking. I did't want to go with a loop with this build though and this was the next best thing. My only hope is that this works out,I don't regret it,and 3 doesn't grand go down the tubes.









Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFangs1381*
> 
> One thing I did learned,is to stay away from liquid cooling a mid tower cases next time if I do try it again. Just not enough room in there. lol


Sure there's enough room, if you plan it well. Here's the inside of my FT03-mini which is small form-factor.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Either going to go a corsair h100i in push pull with noctua fans and replacing the loud rubbish corsair ones or going a noctua nh-d14, still not sure which to go as i fear the h100i can leak and destroy my new build.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> So all and all after loosing all that equipment you went back to a h100i?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Of course, Corsair stands behind their products. If there was any company out there I would trust to help me out if a factory defect in their aio cooler caused a leak, it would be Corsair. Their 5 year warranty also helps in the confidence department.
> 
> In any case, I wouldn't worry about putting an all-in-one water cooler in a computer. The chances of it leaking from factory defect are pretty slim. If a person doesn't trust themself enough to install and use an aio water cooler, then perhaps they shouldn't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

What Merg said









And I'll add, several members dumped their D14's years ago for better access to their mobo's and ram while also improving their overall case airflow consequently providing better overall cooling to your components with a slight improvement to their cpu temps depending on the cpu OC, the higher the better!
Want more proof, do a search within this thread for Noctua NH-D14









If you want, also search Corsair warranty / leaks / replace hardware / etc ... you'll find in every *"rare"* case where a leak has developed due to manufacturer defect and caused hardware damage Corsair has taken care of their customer








AND even in some cases where it has been "user error" Corsair has helped them out ... you don't get to be the biggest and best by not taking care of the customer!

Hope that helps calm some of your rears, trust us, a lot of us have been there done that, from air to custom loops


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Sure there's enough room, if you plan it well. Here's the inside of my FT03-mini which is small form-factor.


Well there certainly wasn't enough room in the mid tower I had that was liquid cooled. I had a cd-rom reservoir in the top bay instead of using the one that attached to the pump. Had the pump mounted inside the case right next to the hard drive bays. Plus having a graphics cards that was kind of long and a sound card room disappeared quickly. Also had hoses running outside the case to a larger second radiator (had the Thermaltake Big Water 745). Another thing was that case (which I still have) wasn't a cable management style case,so all connections were in the way even though I did the best I could to route them. Here's a couple pictures of the case.




But yeah I guess you could liquid cool a mid tower with the right case. My case just wasn't one of them. lol I'll stick to full tower cases though.

Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## dboythagr8

I have a H100i coming tomorrow and plan to set it up in push/pull. Never done a push/pull setup before, does anybody know what size screws I need for the fans on top of the radiator?


----------



## darkelixa

That does put my mind at ease at little more, do the pumps fail often thou? This is a system I do not want to open once everything has been bought and pre installed at my computer place. That is nice that they will warrant the leaking hopefully that does not happen. Is it worth putting it into a push pull system or just to keep it as a push with two noctua fans instead of the bad corsair ones


----------



## WolfFangs1381

The pump that was in my first liquid cooled case didn't fail. I accidently loosened the 4-pin power connector to it somehow when I was replacing the hard drive. So when I started the system up and started to install Windows the system automatically shut down. I tried again and it did the same thing,so once again I tried after removing the case door & that's when I found out the pump wasn't working. I quickly shut it down but the damage had already been done. I should have known to check all the connections after I installed the new hard drive but I didn't like an idiot. But I wouldn't worry to much about the pump failing. If it has a power indication light like mine had just check and make sure it's on when you start up the system.

Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> That does put my mind at ease at little more, do the pumps fail often thou? *This is a system I do not want to open once everything has been bought and pre installed at my computer place.* That is nice that they will warrant the leaking hopefully that does not happen. Is it worth putting it into a push pull system or just to keep it as a push with two noctua fans instead of the bad corsair ones


Um.. You do know you will need to open it AT LEAST every couple of months and clean out the dust? Even if it has dust filters you will have to open it once a month or so to wipe those off, and dust WILL still get through filters, albeit very little.

I have filters on all my intakes, and there is still SOME dust, granted this is about 8 months of buildup, but it IS there.
Open link in new tab or click "View Original" on the popup.


----------



## darkelixa

Ah blowing out dust is simple, just go off to dads and use the air compressor, but thats only really needed once a year since dust doesnt seem to build up that bad

So water cooling with the h100i is just a set and forget system?


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> So water cooling with the h100i is just a set and forget system?


Yeah, its a sealed unit. No refilling or anything.


----------



## darkelixa

What im looking to buy is,

Fractal Arc xl case
Corsair h100i with changed fans to some noctua ones
Changing the stock fractal fans to noctua
16gb ddr3 corsair or kingston ram
256gb ssd
2tb hdd
Gigabyte or asus z97 board with either an i5 or i7
Gpu, either r9 290 or 780
750 or 850 w psu depending on gpu

Just hoping to hell the h100i doesnt destroy those components


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> That does put my mind at ease at little more, do the pumps fail often thou? This is a system I do not want to open once everything has been bought and pre installed at my computer place. That is nice that they will warrant the leaking hopefully that does not happen. Is it worth putting it into a push pull system or just to keep it as a push with two noctua fans instead of the bad corsair ones
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> What im looking to buy is,
> 
> Fractal Arc xl case
> Corsair h100i with changed fans to some noctua ones
> Changing the stock fractal fans to noctua
> 16gb ddr3 corsair or kingston ram
> 256gb ssd
> 2tb hdd
> Gigabyte or asus z97 board with either an i5 or i7
> Gpu, either r9 290 or 780
> 750 or 850 w psu depending on gpu
> 
> Just hoping to hell the h100i doesnt destroy those components
Click to expand...

Very good ... no the pumps do not fail often, but as safety set your cpu shutdown temp accordingly (95c?).
Depending on how aggressively you OC the i7/i5 you won't find a huge improvement going push/pull over a single push or pull setup. Depending on overall case airflow and setup (radiator as Top exhaust or Intake) you won't see on average more than a 2c-3c improvement, even less if you only moderately OC. Try a single Push or Pull (2 fan) setup 1st ... you might be pleasantly surprised









I'd also try out those fractal 140mm case fans 1st, as they are pretty nice fans before investing in the Noctua's. Back in the day I also use to replace all my fans with Noctua quality But that isn't the case anymore!, even the newer Corsair fans have come a long way in performance/noise.

Also a quality rated bronze+ 750 PSU is more than adequate for your system with a single GPU, the 290 or 780, which under load WILL be the loudest component in your system no matter what fans you use for your AIO or case. Unless of course you upgrade the cooling on your GPU to H2o/AIO or some? of the 3-fan HSF's.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Very good ... no the pumps do not fail often, but as safety set your cpu shutdown temp accordingly (95c?).
> Depending on how aggressively you OC the i7/i5 you won't find a huge improvement going push/pull over a single push or pull setup. Depending on overall case airflow and setup (radiator as Top exhaust or Intake) you won't see on average more than a 2c-3c improvement, even less if you only moderately OC. Try a single Push or Pull (2 fan) setup 1st ... you might be pleasantly surprised
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd also try out those fractal 140mm case fans 1st, as they are pretty nice fans before investing in the Noctua's. Back in the day I also use to replace all my fans with Noctua quality But that isn't the case anymore!, even the newer Corsair fans have come a long way in performance/noise.
> 
> Also a quality rated bronze+ 750 PSU is more than adequate for your system with a single GPU, the 290 or 780, which under load WILL be the loudest component in your system no matter what fans you use for your AIO or case. Unless of course you upgrade the cooling on your GPU to H2o/AIO or some? of the 3-fan HSF's.


Actually.. he could run that system on a good quality 550w going by what @TwoCables was saying to me when I was talking to him awhile back. He wouldn't need a 750w unless he was going to add a second GPU. I could swap my current card out right now for a 290x / 780ti and my PSU wouldn't even break a sweat.

Anyway, like we have said, the odds of that H100i critically failing in such a way that it leaks are slim to none, and even if the pump stopped working the motherboard would shut the system off based on your CPU's tjmax before it did any heat damage.


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> I have a H100i coming tomorrow and plan to set it up in push/pull. Never done a push/pull setup before, does anybody know what size screws I need for the fans on top of the radiator?


Anyone...?


----------



## MiiX

All the screws are included I think.


----------



## mAs81

I believe you can buy them directly from Corsair if you can't find them elsewhere..
http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-fan-mounting-screw-kit
Each Corsair Hydro series fan mounting kit includes:

8x 6/32 x 1" long screw.

8x 6/32 x 3/8" long screw.

8x 6/32 washers.


----------



## MiiX

Checked around, only screws for 2 fans are in the package, 2 for each fan would be what would do.


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> I believe you can buy them directly from Corsair if you can't find them elsewhere..
> http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-fan-mounting-screw-kit
> Each Corsair Hydro series fan mounting kit includes:
> 
> 8x 6/32 x 1" long screw.
> 
> 8x 6/32 x 3/8" long screw.
> 
> 8x 6/32 washers.


Hope you're right. I just went to Home Depot and picked up all of the above. I already have a H80i so I guess I could use those screws as well. Speaking of H80i, the bracket for the H100i isn't any different correct? I could just leave it on there and drop the H100i in?


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Hope you're right. I just went to Home Depot and picked up all of the above. I already have a H80i so I guess I could use those screws as well. Speaking of H80i, the bracket for the H100i isn't any different correct? I could just leave it on there and drop the H100i in?


Yeah, the only real difference between the two is the size of the radiator.


----------



## krel2014

I love my H100I my cpu never gets over 100 degrees F now where with the crap ass stock intel cooler it was always going up to 145-150 cpu is i7-3770k. not over clocked as I don't need to over clock


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel2014*
> 
> I love my H100I my cpu never gets over 100 degrees F now where with the crap ass stock intel cooler it was always going up to 145-150 cpu is i7-3770k. not over clocked as I don't need to over clock


Just a heads up.. Among tech people you need to talk in celsius when it comes to computers. Most of us can't translate in our heads that easily, and celsius is the standard temp measurement for computers, even if you live in the US.


----------



## xP_0nex

How are the tubes of the new Hydro series compared to the older H50? Thinking about getting something new, that allows more tube flexibility especially in a smaller form factor case. The hoses of my H50 gives too muck resistance and doesn't really want to bend at all.


----------



## Torresjasonc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Just a heads up.. Among tech people you need to talk in celsius when it comes to computers. Most of us can't translate in our heads that easily, and celsius is the standard temp measurement for computers, even if you live in the US.


Yep, its easiest if everyone uses metric for temps and sizing for cases and cooling (with the exception of drives, since we all know them as like 5.25 or 2.5)

Also going back a bit the Corsair coolers _do_ have water in them, but it's distilled water and only 30% of the cooler is filled with it. The other 70% is Ethylene Glycol. In short it's filled with a non-conductive liquid so as long as you keep your components dusted and clean you won't have any issues if, god forbid, you have a spill.


----------



## giygas

I'm getting very inconsistent performance with my Corsair H105. Yesterday my FX-8350 idle temperatures were 32-34C. Today it's idling at 40C. I did open up my case a little this morning to remove a hard drive cage and install a new intake fan in its place on the bottom, so I had my computer lying on its side for a few minutes. I don't know if that could have changed anything.

Also, one of the tubes sometimes vibrates.


----------



## giygas

I'm getting very inconsistent performance with my Corsair H105. Yesterday my FX-8350 idle temperatures were 32-34C. Today it's idling at 40C. I did open up my case a little this morning to remove a hard drive cage and install a new intake fan in its place on the bottom, so I had my computer lying on its side for a few minutes. I don't know if that could have changed anything.

Also, one of the tubes sometimes vibrates.


----------



## Mergatroid

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFangs1381*
> 
> For a simple answer,yes.
> 
> It was my first go at liquid cooling while being egged on by a friend of mine who got me into building computers. He was a machinist and had his work computer was liquid cooled. He even had the liquid loop running through a freezer! But now that I know more than I did back then and my cpu cooler not going to work how I wanted,I figured I'd try an AIO liquid cooler. For that short month I had that system running I was impressed with how much the overall performance was. My temps at idle was 8° C and at full load it was 28° C. So those temps from a previous build got me thinking about an AIO and the fact I'm overclocking. I did't want to go with a loop with this build though and this was the next best thing. My only hope is that this works out,I don't regret it,and 3 doesn't grand go down the tubes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolf_Fangs1381


Did you refrigerate that build? Or did you have it outside or something?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*





Actually.. he could run that system on a good quality 550w going by what @TwoCables was saying to me when I was talking to him awhile back. He wouldn't need a 750w unless he was going to add a second GPU. I could swap my current card out right now for a 290x / 780ti and my PSU wouldn't even break a sweat.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Anyway, like we have said, the odds of that H100i critically failing in such a way that it leaks are slim to none, and even if the pump stopped working the motherboard would shut the system off based on your CPU's tjmax before it did any heat damage.



Keep in mind that a psu is most efficient at about 60% capacity (thereabouts). I would purchase a psu that could do at least 30% more than what the system needs. So, if your system needs 400W, get a 600 or 650W supply. This lets you run the supply close to where it's the most efficient and gives you some headway in case you want to add more components in the future.
Personally, I would look around and try to get the largest psu I could get for my budget, and for the physical space I had in my case. Often you can find them on sale, so have a good look around.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Did you refrigerate that build? Or did you have it outside or something?
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that a psu is most efficient at about 60% capacity (thereabouts). I would purchase a psu that could do at least 30% more than what the system needs. So, if your system needs 400W, get a 600 or 650W supply. This lets you run the supply close to where it's the most efficient and gives you some headway in case you want to add more components in the future.
> Personally, I would look around and try to get the largest psu I could get for my budget, and for the physical space I had in my case. Often you can find them on sale, so have a good look around.


Here's some information from Phaedrus2129 himself in a PM conversation that I started with him:

Quote: *TwoCables*


> I vaguely remember some things were said in the past on here that having too much overkill in a PSU can be bad for the PSU and it can be bad for things like efficiency and the quality of the power output. Would you say that this is still true for today's PSUs?
> 
> Just in case: the reason I'm asking this is, there are a few people on here who keep telling people that there's nothing wrong with overkill and it seems to me that some of them even believe that there's nothing wrong with having like say a 1500W PSU to power a low-end to mid-range casual gaming system (as I would call it). Like, say a 750 Ti and an i5-4570 on an H87 board with one hard drive, an optical drive, 2-3 case fans, just a simple setup like that. So, can you teach me some things about why or when an overkill PSU is bad (and even why or when it's good)?


Quote: *Phaedrus2129*


> Running a PSU at a lower load is never bad for the electronics. That's not the issue. The two issues with an overkill PSU are the following:
> 
> 1. *Lower efficiency (in many cases), especially at system idle.* If a system is always running, then this is less of an issue, but most people spend significant amounts of time at either the desktop, or in browsers, or in other semi-idle states. As my "on efficiency" and "50% load myth" articles point out, a system will often be more efficient with a PSU properly sized for its power requirements (say 20% over max sustained load, and at least equal to peak load).
> 
> 2. *If people are always told to purchase a PSU that has a higher wattage capacity than they need, then they will often spend more money on a power supply than they need to.* While this is fine for power supply companies, it's not great for the consumer because the PSU does not contribute directly to the user experience the way a faster CPU does, or the way more RAM does, or a faster video card, or better monitor, etc. If an $80 650W PSU will provide function that's identical to a $120 *8*50W PSU, then it would be better for that $40 to be spent on another component, or even just saved for something else entirely (not necessarily computer-related). Of course, this is assuming that the PSUs that are being compared are of equivalent performance, reliability, and features. There's nothing wrong with spending more money for a more efficient or more reliable PSU, or for modularity or for lower sound levels, but spending more money for more watts that you don't need is a waste of money.


Also, the efficiency apparently maxes out between 40 and 60%.


----------



## Step83

Well im dropping out after Corsair kindly advised me I need to ship my cooler back to them cost to myself of £50> as they want it tracked. I can by a refurbed H80 for that price, an thats pretty much what they would send me back!

Needless to say im cheesed off and have gone back to aircooling instead sorry guys.


----------



## NKrader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Step83*
> 
> *Well im dropping out after Corsair kindly advised me I need to ship my cooler back to them cost to myself* of £50> as they want it tracked. I can by a refurbed H80 for that price, an thats pretty much what they would send me back!
> 
> Needless to say im cheesed off and have gone back to aircooling instead sorry guys.


99.9% of companies do this. and should be expected


----------



## felix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Step83*
> 
> Well im dropping out after Corsair kindly advised me I need to ship my cooler back to them cost to myself of £50> as they want it tracked. I can by a refurbed H80 for that price, an thats pretty much what they would send me back!
> 
> Needless to say im cheesed off and have gone back to aircooling instead sorry guys.


I have no intention to prove you wrong, but for same case with Greek Postal Service someone paid 16.5€ signed and tracked package to Corsair Service in the Netherlands ( I believe that he sent the H100, though).

Are you sure that the option with £50 was the only one ? Usually that is the price of well-known Courier Companies like UPS,DHL etc.


----------



## Step83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NKrader*
> 
> 99.9% of companies do this. and should be expected


I expected that
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felix*
> 
> I have no intention to prove you wrong, but for same case with Greek Postal Service someone paid 16.5€ signed and tracked package to Corsair Service in the Netherlands ( I believe that he sent the H100, though).
> 
> Are you sure that the option with £50 was the only one ? Usually that is the price of well-known Courier Companies like UPS,DHL etc.


It was I really need to update my location as ive moved a bit, Isle of Man isnt that well served in terms of couriers


----------



## felix

Oh, i see....Doesn't Royal Mail have a tracking service for lower price ? Couriers are overpriced, i know.


----------



## lawrencendlw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Step83*
> 
> Well im dropping out after Corsair kindly advised me I need to ship my cooler back to them cost to myself of £50> as they want it tracked. I can by a refurbed H80 for that price, an thats pretty much what they would send me back!
> 
> Needless to say im cheesed off and have gone back to aircooling instead sorry guys.


If you call them back and tell them that, that's not acceptable and that they need to pay the shipping you can get them to pay for it. If the person your talking to still refuses then hang up and call back. Sometimes it all depends on who you talk to. They tried to make me pay for return shipping and I told them that was BS because I already paid to have it shipped to me and that they need to pay to make the problem with their product right. Don't just throw in the towel and give up. Don't take no for an answer. Raise some hell lol.


----------



## Step83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felix*
> 
> Oh, i see....Doesn't Royal Mail have a tracking service for lower price ? Couriers are overpriced, i know.


It would be if they didnt want it tracked. Most of the standard postal options throw a wobbly when they realise the postcode. Its not a major issue now ive got a thermalright unit on its way for less than the shipping of this thing.


----------



## lawrencendlw

I'm telling you man, call them back and make them pay for it. You already have spent enough money with them. Now it's their turn to give you the service you deserve.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


----------



## darkelixa

Why are you sending your cooler back?


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Did you refrigerate that build? Or did you have it outside or something?


Are you asking me if mine or if my friends was refrigerated? I'm not sure what exactly your referring too.

Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Here's some information from Phaedrus2129 himself in a PM conversation that I started with him:
> Also, the efficiency apparently maxes out between 40 and 60%.


Yeah, that's why I said "60% or thereabouts". Note that this varies, and can be as high as 80%. As for the rest, the people on enthusiast sites aren't actually "most people", and many of us put our systems to the test quite a bit. The other thing is that, even if systems are often idling, this is when they are using the least power, so efficiency isn't as large an issue as it is when you are running at a heavier load.
Also, he didn't cover my other point at all, which is that, if you plan on adding more in the future (more ram, more hard drives, more GPUs, more fans, lighting, fan controllers etc etc etc....) then you will be thankful that you have some headroom in your psu. After all, to borrow a phrase, it would be good for psu manufacturers for you to have to replace your supply again, but not necessarily good for the user to have to spend more money for nothing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFangs1381*
> 
> Are you asking me if mine or if my friends was refrigerated? I'm not sure what exactly your referring too.
> 
> Wolf_Fangs1381


You said you were getting 8c at idle. Since the coolant temp cannot be lower than ambient unless you are using refrigeration, I was wondering how you achieved this.


----------



## lawrencendlw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> You said you were getting 8c at idle. Since the coolant temp cannot be lower than ambient unless you are using refrigeration, I was wondering how you achieved this.


Perhaps its a TEC unit attached (refrigeration lol) or maybe he has his computer hooked up to his AC unit lol. Or maybe he was mistaken about the 9c lol.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Yeah, that's why I said "60% or thereabouts". Note that this varies, and can be as high as 80%. As for the rest, the people on enthusiast sites aren't actually "most people", and many of us put our systems to the test quite a bit. The other thing is that, even if systems are often idling, this is when they are using the least power, so efficiency isn't as large an issue as it is when you are running at a heavier load.


The point is that you want to know what your average computer use is so that your average efficiency is maximized. Most people or not, it doesn't matter. What matters is if your PSU is properly sized for how much power your computer uses as well as your average use of your computer.

For example: a dedicated Folding rig that Folds on both the CPU and the video card(s) at the same time that is constantly pulling 500W from the wall outlet would need a much bigger PSU than a casual gaming rig that pulls 500W at maximum load but is only under full load 1-2 hours per day. Same peak power draw, but significantly different PSU requirements due to the average use in order to maximize the PSU's average efficiency, just as Phaedrus2129 is trying to say.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Also, he didn't cover my other point at all,


He wasn't trying to. It was a PM conversation that I had with him almost a month ago.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> which is that, if you plan on adding more in the future (more ram, more hard drives, more GPUs, more fans, lighting, fan controllers etc etc etc....) then you will be thankful that you have some headroom in your psu


This goes without saying. I will never recommend a PSU without asking the person what their future plans are and I hope that everyone else is the same way. However, I have seen very few people ask things like, "Will you ever have more than one video card?", "will you be using a custom BIOS in order to overclock and overvolt higher than what the stock BIOS allows?", "just what are your overclocking plans exactly? Do you have any at all?", "will you ever be able to afford to have a $400-$700 video card?", etc. etc. etc.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> After all, to borrow a phrase, it would be good for psu manufacturers for you to have to replace your supply again, but not necessarily good for the user to have to spend more money for nothing.


You're not saying anything that I don't already know and don't already practice when making recommendations. I just thought that some of these things are so obvious that they don't need to be said.


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw*
> 
> Perhaps its a TEC unit attached (refrigeration lol) or maybe he has his computer hooked up to his AC unit lol. Or maybe he was mistaken about the 9c lol.


lmao! Nope,nope,and nope!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> You said you were getting 8c at idle. Since the coolant temp cannot be lower than ambient unless you are using refrigeration, I was wondering how you achieved this.


Well for starters when I had that system running it was in my basement. With the low natural temp in the basement and the air conditioning leaking out the closed basement vents it gets pretty chilly down there. I wish I had a thermometer sometimes when it's really chilly down there just to see actually what the temp is. Another thing is my Thermaltake Big Water 745 liquid cooling kit had two radiatiors,a 120mm x 35mm and a 240mm x 35 radiator. Lastly,the liquid cooling system was only cooling the cpu waterblock. So I guess with a decent pump,a cd-rom bay tank,and the length of all the connecting 3/8 tubing allowing the water to cool over a longer circulation,location of my tower being in the basement with low natural basement temp and leaking air conditioning it just caused my temps to be what they were. That's my philosophy as to why my idle temps were 8c anyway.

Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## lawrencendlw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFangs1381*
> 
> lmao! Nope,nope,and nope!
> Well for starters when I had that system running it was in my basement. With the low natural temp in the basement and the air conditioning leaking out the closed basement vents it gets pretty chilly down there. I wish I had a thermometer sometimes when it's really chilly down there just to see actually what the temp is. Another thing is my Thermaltake Big Water 745 liquid cooling kit had two radiatiors,a 120mm x 35mm and a 240mm x 35 radiator. Lastly,the liquid cooling system was only cooling the cpu waterblock. So I guess with a decent pump,a cd-rom bay tank,and the length of all the connecting 3/8 tubing allowing the water to cool over a longer circulation,location of my tower being in the basement with low natural basement temp and leaking air conditioning it just caused my temps to be what they were. That's my philosophy as to why my idle temps were 8c anyway.
> 
> Wolf_Fangs1381


Well 8c is 46.4 degrees Fahrenheit. That's Beyond "Really chilly down there" unless by down there you mean you live in Antarctica lol. And the point that we are trying to make is that unless you have some sort of refrigeration on the WC loop, you can't have sub ambient temps. So it would have to be cooler than a walk in cooler down there. That's one hell of a AC leak there. You may want to get that checked out lol.


----------



## Step83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw*
> 
> I'm telling you man, call them back and make them pay for it. You already have spent enough money with them. Now it's their turn to give you the service you deserve.
> 
> Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


Bit late ive pulled it apart now for a mini project. I spoke to them a few times and got told they would not cover shipping plus nearest place to me is the Netherlands which is nice and local at 657 miles from me.
Ive closed the tiocket stating cost Vs benefit anyway
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Why are you sending your cooler back?


Impellers broken away from its spindle so it spins up and makes a horrible noise while moving little or no coolant i may see about scanning it and making a new one one from metal or plastic


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> What im looking to buy is,
> 
> Fractal Arc xl case
> Corsair h100i with changed fans to some noctua ones
> Changing the stock fractal fans to noctua
> 16gb ddr3 corsair or kingston ram
> 256gb ssd
> 2tb hdd
> Gigabyte or asus z97 board with either an i5 or i7
> Gpu, either r9 290 or 780
> 750 or 850 w psu depending on gpu
> 
> Just hoping to hell the h100i doesnt destroy those components
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Very good ... no the pumps do not fail often, but as safety set your cpu shutdown temp accordingly (95c?).
> Depending on how aggressively you OC the i7/i5 you won't find a huge improvement going push/pull over a single push or pull setup. Depending on overall case airflow and setup (radiator as Top exhaust or Intake) you won't see on average more than a 2c-3c improvement, even less if you only moderately OC. Try a single Push or Pull (2 fan) setup 1st ... you might be pleasantly surprised
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd also try out those fractal 140mm case fans 1st, as they are pretty nice fans before investing in the Noctua's. Back in the day I also use to replace all my fans with Noctua quality But that isn't the case anymore!, even the newer Corsair fans have come a long way in performance/noise.
> 
> 
> 
> Also a quality rated bronze+ 750 PSU is *more than adequate for your system with a single GPU*, the 290 or 780, which under load WILL be the loudest component in your system no matter what fans you use for your AIO or case. Unless of course you upgrade the cooling on your GPU to H2o/AIO or some? of the 3-fan HSF's.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that a psu is most efficient at about 60% capacity (thereabouts). I would purchase a psu that could do at least 30% more than what the system needs. So, if your system needs 400W, get a 600 or 650W supply. This lets you run the supply close to where it's the most efficient and gives you some headway in case you want to add more components in the future.
> Personally, I would look around and try to get the largest psu I could get for my budget, and for the physical space I had in my case. Often you can find them on sale, so have a good look around.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The point is that you want to know what your average computer use is so that your average efficiency is maximized. Most people or not, it doesn't matter. What matters is if your PSU is properly sized for how much power your computer uses as well as your average use of your computer.
> 
> For example: a dedicated Folding rig that Folds on both the CPU and the video card(s) at the same time that is constantly pulling 500W from the wall outlet would need a much bigger PSU than a casual gaming rig that pulls 500W at maximum load but is only under full load 1-2 hours per day. Same peak power draw, but significantly different PSU requirements due to the average use in order to maximize the PSU's average efficiency, just as Phaedrus2129 is trying to say.
> 
> He wasn't trying to. It was a PM conversation that I had with him almost a month ago.
> 
> This goes without saying. I will never recommend a PSU without asking the person what their future plans are and I hope that everyone else is the same way. However, I have seen very few people ask things like, "Will you ever have more than one video card?", "will you be using a custom BIOS in order to overclock and overvolt higher than what the stock BIOS allows?", "just what are your overclocking plans exactly? Do you have any at all?", "will you ever be able to afford to have a $400-$700 video card?", etc. etc. etc.
> 
> You're not saying anything that I don't already know and don't already practice when making recommendations. I just thought that some of these things are so obvious that they don't need to be said.


Hey we're all on the same page here









Over the years I've never seen Merg or TwoCables give out bad advise, but now that Darklexia has dropped out of the discussion we don't have enough information to fine tune our recommendations









Yea he might get away with a quality 650w, depending? But I wouldn't go as low as a 550w without more specific info? ... And, Yes my original recommendation probably should have Also said a quality 750w psu is good enough even if he wanted to also SLI/crossF in the future, but it depends on what he says his future aspirations/needs may be? We just don't know
















It's a well known fact, that in general PSU's have been overspec'd for quite sometime ... so you may ask then why the heck am I running an HX850 with a "claimed?" 90% efficiency rating for my moderate OC and a single OC'd 680gtx? I'm holding out for Haswell? giving the ridiculous cost right now of a 780Ti.

Well, back in the day, I originally bought this PSU when I was aggressively OC'ing a power hungry Phenom 965B 125w cpu with 2X GTX295's for Quad core overkill and many tried to tell me I was underpowered ... NOT True! It performed quite well even if we didn't have [email protected] yet








Boy have power requirements changed per performance. But am I going to downgrade to better optimize a power efficiency curve, heck no, which is exactly what we are all eluding to ... Performance/$$$/need


----------



## Foresight

Hi everyone just got a H100i and
[email protected] 4.6ghz 1.34v
with prime 95 i am getting ~80 on core 0 and 3 and ~90 on core 1 and 2
Is this good or do i need a reseat =/.


----------



## Cooknn

Add me!


----------



## darkelixa

Heya,

Im still here I have just been very busy this week with wedding planning and work. Still most likely going to go a high wattage PSU as I dont want to replace it till for along time as i wont have any more money so its a once off upgrade so might as well go bigger, will be getting more hard drives in the future and the r9 290 does have a huge power draw


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFangs1381*
> 
> lmao! Nope,nope,and nope!
> Well for starters when I had that system running it was in my basement. With the low natural temp in the basement and the air conditioning leaking out the closed basement vents it gets pretty chilly down there. I wish I had a thermometer sometimes when it's really chilly down there just to see actually what the temp is. Another thing is my Thermaltake Big Water 745 liquid cooling kit had two radiatiors,a 120mm x 35mm and a 240mm x 35 radiator. Lastly,the liquid cooling system was only cooling the cpu waterblock. So I guess with a decent pump,a cd-rom bay tank,and the length of all the connecting 3/8 tubing allowing the water to cool over a longer circulation,location of my tower being in the basement with low natural basement temp and leaking air conditioning it just caused my temps to be what they were. That's my philosophy as to why my idle temps were 8c anyway.
> 
> Wolf_Fangs1381


I'm thinking there must have been a fault in the sensor. Was it an AMD cpu? Some of them have problems reporting the correct temps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Hey we're all on the same page here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Over the years I've never seen Merg or TwoCables give out bad advise, but now that Darklexia has dropped out of the discussion we don't have enough information to fine tune our recommendations
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yea he might get away with a quality 650w, depending? But I wouldn't go as low as a 550w without more specific info? ... And, Yes my original recommendation probably should have Also said a quality 750w psu is good enough even if he wanted to also SLI/crossF in the future, but it depends on what he says his future aspirations/needs may be? We just don't know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a well known fact, that in general PSU's have been overspec'd for quite sometime ... so you may ask then why the heck am I running an HX850 with a "claimed?" 90% efficiency rating for my moderate OC and a single OC'd 680gtx? I'm holding out for Haswell? giving the ridiculous cost right now of a 780Ti.
> 
> Well, back in the day, I originally bought this PSU when I was aggressively OC'ing a power hungry Phenom 965B 125w cpu with 2X GTX295's for Quad core overkill and many tried to tell me I was underpowered ... NOT True! It performed quite well even if we didn't have [email protected] yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boy have power requirements changed per performance. But am I going to downgrade to better optimize a power efficiency curve, heck no, which is exactly what we are all eluding to ... Performance/$$$/need


Yeah, I think there's a communications failure going on.
When I was using a wattage meter on some builds, I was surprised how low the wattage was for a cpu and two gpus, with a couple of hard drives and four gigs of memory and small lighting and fan requirements.
Now, with my current build, I'm using two reference HD6970, overclockd i7 haswell with 16G of ram, two hard rives, two SSDs, LED controller, optical, , fan controller, multiple LED fans and LEDs. I'm using a Corsair AX750 that's a few years old now, and it's never complained, but I no longer have the meter. Considering the heat the system pumps out at full load, and all the other crap I have connected (including a home made LED circuit for my front fan with 8 super bright LEDs), I'm really amazed it's working so well. I should have gotten an 850W supply for this system, but I picked up the 750W Gold supply on sale. Using a calculator my system is running in the 90%+ capacity, which is really a little too high. An AX850 would have been a better choice at the time, but I went with upfront price instead of looking ahead. Of course, it can be hard to predict so I feel to err on the side of capacity is a better choice.


----------



## Dmavs41

1.34v seems a little excessive for a 4.6ghz overclock. Try lowering the voltage to 1.25-2.28.


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw*
> 
> Well 8c is 46.4 degrees Fahrenheit. That's Beyond "Really chilly down there" unless by down there you mean you live in Antarctica lol. And the point that we are trying to make is that unless you have some sort of refrigeration on the WC loop, you can't have sub ambient temps. So it would have to be cooler than a walk in cooler down there. That's one hell of a AC leak there. You may want to get that checked out lol.


I do remember checking my temps often when it was running and remember seeing 8c at idle. My basement gets pretty damn chilly. I'm always running outside to get warm during the summer because I can't stand cold weather. I love the heat. But it has caused numerous family members to leave because of how cold it gets. lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I'm thinking there must have been a fault in the sensor. Was it an AMD cpu? Some of them have problems reporting the correct temps.


Yes it was an AMD,it's all I run. I had the AMD cpu's temperature software reporting 8c,plus two other temperature programs also reporting the same temp. Both being very popular with computer enthusiasts. I wish I still had that system running as I may have saved myself $400.00 for my Playstation 3 because I would have gaming on that system up to now. I have all the components still but I can't test them to see what's useable or not. I still have the Thermaltake Big Water 745 system as well. Believe me or not,but that's what I remember.

Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## TwoCables

I'm sorry, but I don't want to argue this. I've stated the facts. If you want to ignore them, then that's your god-given right. I'm outta here. I only came in here because someone @mentioned me.

So, I'm unsubscribed. I apologize. I can't keep repeating myself over and over if it's just going to make things worse.


----------



## RX7-2nr

AMDs often report wierd temperatures.


----------



## DrockinWV

I have been running a H100i for almost 2 months now and dont seem to be getting the temps I think I should be getting with this system. I have my 4770k OCd to 4.2 @1.22v also replaced the Corsair 120mm fans with Noctua F12s (set us as push exhaust...but thinking about getting 2 more for push/pull) and get temps as high as 67-70c while playing BF4. I have been thinking I need to re-apply my TIM remount and try again for lower temps, anyone else running into high temps with a H100i?


----------



## TopicClocker

I've been confused lately, someone was telling me that you can just get a H80i without the need of having other components for water cooling, I was under the impression you need some form of water cooling kit or other components for water cooling, Is this true? Do not tell me all this time I've been wrong otherwise I probably would of slapped on one months ago...


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TopicClocker*
> 
> I've been confused lately, someone was telling me that you can just get a H80i without the need of having other components for water cooling, I was under the impression you need some form of water cooling kit or other components for water cooling, Is this true? Do not tell me all this time I've been wrong otherwise I probably would of slapped on one months ago...


All these Corsair Hydro units are "all-in-one" solutions. You don't need any other components and you can indeed just slap one on


----------



## lawrencendlw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TopicClocker*
> 
> I've been confused lately, someone was telling me that you can just get a H80i without the need of having other components for water cooling, I was under the impression you need some form of water cooling kit or other components for water cooling, Is this true? Do not tell me all this time I've been wrong otherwise I probably would of slapped on one months ago...


Yes the Hydro series are closed loop systems. They come with pretty much everything that you need. I'd suggest changing the fans and adding spacers but other than that, you get it all. That's the great thing about them.


----------



## TopicClocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> All these Corsair Hydro units are "all-in-one" solutions. You don't need any other components and you can indeed just slap one on


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw*
> 
> Yes the Hydro series are closed loop systems. They come with pretty much everything that you need. I'd suggest changing the fans and adding spacers but other than that, you get it all. That's the great thing about them.










I wish i knew about this before, thanks.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> I have been running a H100i for almost 2 months now and dont seem to be getting the temps I think I should be getting with this system. I have my 4770k OCd to 4.2 @1.22v also replaced the Corsair 120mm fans with Noctua F12s (set us as push exhaust...but thinking about getting 2 more for push/pull) and get temps as high as 67-70c while playing BF4. I have been thinking I need to re-apply my TIM remount and try again for lower temps, anyone else running into high temps with a H100i?


I'm using an H100 (not the i), and a 4770K o/c to 4.2GHz with a voltage of 1.2V. I'm getting 69c to 73c running Prime 95 as I type this. I'm using Corsair SP120 Performance fans, and they are auto controlled by the system at 1290 RPM currently.

Run Prime 95 and see if your temps compare. Also, you might want to try and drop your voltage to 1.2 and see if your system is stable there.

I was running 4.5GHs at 1.25V, but my system could hit 80c with a long run of Prime 95, and running Intel Burn Test was getting scary. I don't need a couple hundred MHz, so I backed it off to 4.2GHz and I'm really happy with it now. This is all with an ambient of 23c.

The 4770K is well known for running hot because of the TIM they used inside the case. Many people will "delid" their CPU and replace the TIM used inside (some people use Coollaboratory liquid ultra). This is a little dangerous though because you can damage your cpu during the delidding, but you can lower the temp by up to maybe 5c.

You could pull the block off and add some plastic, fiber or cardboard washers under the backplate on the back of the motherboard. This will move it away slightly, allowing the block screws to put a little more pressure on the block. I got another couple of degrees when I did this, and others have done the same thing.

If you do that, just use a credit card or something to scrape the TIM back onto either the block or the cpu and spread it around nicely. Corsair uses Dow Corning TIM, which is supposed to be as good as the best TIMs out there. I'm using Arctic Silver 5, which is as good but requires a few hundred hours of curing time before it gets its best temps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TopicClocker*
> 
> I've been confused lately, someone was telling me that you can just get a H80i without the need of having other components for water cooling, I was under the impression you need some form of water cooling kit or other components for water cooling, Is this true? Do not tell me all this time I've been wrong otherwise I probably would of slapped on one months ago...


Yeah, as the others have mentioned, with the all-in-one kits like the H80 and H100, you get a pump and radiator, with hoses, and it's all pre-filled and sealed. You also get a five year warranty with the Corsair units.


----------



## lawrencendlw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I'm using an H100 (not the i), and a 4770K o/c to 4.2GHz with a voltage of 1.2V. I'm getting 69c to 73c running Prime 95 as I type this. I'm using Corsair SP120 Performance fans, and they are auto controlled by the system at 1290 RPM currently.
> 
> Run Prime 95 and see if your temps compare. Also, you might want to try and drop your voltage to 1.2 and see if your system is stable there.
> 
> I was running 4.5GHs at 1.25V, but my system could hit 80c with a long run of Prime 95, and running Intel Burn Test was getting scary. I don't need a couple hundred MHz, so I backed it off to 4.2GHz and I'm really happy with it now. This is all with an ambient of 23c.
> 
> The 4770K is well known for running hot because of the TIM they used inside the case. Many people will "delid" their CPU and replace the TIM used inside (some people use Coollaboratory liquid ultra). This is a little dangerous though because you can damage your cpu during the delidding, but you can lower the temp by up to maybe 5c.
> 
> You could pull the block off and add some plastic, fiber or cardboard washers under the backplate on the back of the motherboard. This will move it away slightly, allowing the block screws to put a little more pressure on the block. I got another couple of degrees when I did this, and others have done the same thing.
> 
> If you do that, just use a credit card or something to scrape the TIM back onto either the block or the cpu and spread it around nicely. Corsair uses Dow Corning TIM, which is supposed to be as good as the best TIMs out there. I'm using Arctic Silver 5, which is as good but requires a few hundred hours of curing time before it gets its best temps.


I might also suggest getting some good fans and either making some spacers from some old fans or buying some pre-made ones. I currently use a Corsair H70 with 2 X Delta 120 x 38mm High-Speed Fan - 190 CFM (FFB1212EHE-F00) fans and I made some spacers (cut all of the insides out of a 120mm X 25mm fan so that its just the outside square fan with the inside circle) but you can buy some like these clear acrylic ones with some nice LED accents (you can get the LED's in Blue, Red, or Green) Feser Admiral Series Xtender 120mm Radiator Shroud - Dual Blue LED.

In case you don't know the purpose of a spacer I'll give you a quick explanation. When you attach your fans to your radiator, the center of the fan has that circle on the inside of the fan blades. Well air cannot travel through the radiator at that point so it makes it less effective at cooling. So by putting a spacer in, you are pulling the fan away from the radiator and allowing air to now travel through that "Dead zone" that it couldn't travel through before. I noticed a considerable difference in cooling just by adding the spacers. I will warn you that the Delta fans are incredibly loud but also very effective cooling fans so if you get them maybe consider getting a fan controller to lower the speed of the fans when you don't need maximum cooling. I am currently using a Lamptron FC5V2 Black Fan Controller, Changeable Display Colors, 30W per Channel, Controls up to 4 fans, RPM and TempretureDisplay and it is an amazing piece of hardware that easily tames these beasts of fans.


----------



## Erick Silver

HELP!!!

I have an H60(with the corrugated hoses) that I believe to be starting to fail. Need to know what type, if any, warranty there is on this thing!


----------



## darkelixa

How old is the cooler? Fail in what way


----------



## Erick Silver

I bought the cooler 2nd hand here on OCN back in Jan. 2012. Failing in the sense that it is currently idling at 50*C, I had to restart the computer and after a few minutes the CPU shut down due to overheat protection. Had to tap the CPU Block to get it running. Also, I get a build up of air in the corrugated lines every few days (guessing here) that I need to tap the lines to clear. When the lines have air in them the pump starts making a nasty racket. Tapping the lines or CPU Block apparrently gets the fluids flowing again and it quiets down.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> HELP!!!
> 
> I have an H60(with the corrugated hoses) that I believe to be starting to fail. Need to know what type, if any, warranty there is on this thing!


Have you checked with Corsair? That would ultimately be the best place to start. Once that's started, a member here might be able to help the process along....


----------



## Erick Silver

Just got back from work a bit ago and started doing a little maintanence and a bit of tweaking when the problem started. Haven't had the chance yet tonight. I am trying to find the box and paperwork that I got from the OCN Seller. Also, I have PM'd the seller I bought it from to see if he warrantied the item as I did not as I was not the original buyer.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I'm using an H100 (not the i), and a 4770K o/c to 4.2GHz with a voltage of 1.2V. I'm getting 69c to 73c running Prime 95 as I type this. I'm using Corsair SP120 Performance fans, and they are auto controlled by the system at 1290 RPM currently.
> 
> Run Prime 95 and see if your temps compare. Also, you might want to try and drop your voltage to 1.2 and see if your system is stable there.
> 
> I was running 4.5GHs at 1.25V, but my system could hit 80c with a long run of Prime 95, and running Intel Burn Test was getting scary. I don't need a couple hundred MHz, so I backed it off to 4.2GHz and I'm really happy with it now. This is all with an ambient of 23c.
> 
> The 4770K is well known for running hot because of the TIM they used inside the case. Many people will "delid" their CPU and replace the TIM used inside (some people use Coollaboratory liquid ultra). This is a little dangerous though because you can damage your cpu during the delidding, but you can lower the temp by up to maybe 5c.
> 
> You could pull the block off and add some plastic, fiber or cardboard washers under the backplate on the back of the motherboard. This will move it away slightly, allowing the block screws to put a little more pressure on the block. I got another couple of degrees when I did this, and others have done the same thing.
> 
> If you do that, just use a credit card or something to scrape the TIM back onto either the block or the cpu and spread it around nicely. Corsair uses Dow Corning TIM, which is supposed to be as good as the best TIMs out there. I'm using Arctic Silver 5, which is as good but requires a few hundred hours of curing time before it gets its best temps.


I think I will try and reapply the TIM first to see if that helps any, I have some left over Noctua NT-H1 I will use. I really would like to stay away from trying to delit (im just not that hardcore yet lol). If the temps dont drop down to where I believe they should be for the H100i, I will go ahead and try using the spacers to get a tighter fit on the block. I appreciate your help!!

Does the TIM that comes standard on the H100i require a long "burn in" period, if thats the case maybe the temps are high just because the TIM has not properally cured?


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Does the TIM that comes standard on the H100i require a long "burn in" period, if thats the case maybe the temps are high just because the TIM has not properally cured?


That's actually a great question to ask. I also have a H100i that will be cooling my FX 8150. I normally remove the TIM that is applied to my cpu coolers and then apply Arctic Silver 5. I tend not to trust the factory TIM for some reason. But I'd also like to know about DrockinWV's question about the burn in period. I've never used the Prime 95 software to burn in my cpu's.

Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFangs1381*
> 
> That's actually a great question to ask. I also have a H100i that will be cooling my FX 8150. I normally remove the TIM that is applied to my cpu coolers and then apply Arctic Silver 5. I tend not to trust the factory TIM for some reason. But I'd also like to know about DrockinWV's question about the burn in period. I've never used the Prime 95 software to burn in my cpu's.
> 
> Wolf_Fangs1381


I would stop doing that if I were you. Most of the better companies are using TIM that is better than Arctic Silver 5. That said, I do remove the stock TIM and replace it with either Shin-Etsu or GC Extreme...No curing time....


----------



## lawrencendlw

The TIM on the Corsair line of coolers is "pre-cured" shin etsu TIM if memory serves me correctly. It's High quality stuff.


----------



## LuckyStarV

Would be a issue of pre applied TIM causing air bubbles/pockets?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw*
> 
> The TIM on the Corsair line of coolers is "pre-cured" shin etsu TIM if memory serves me correctly. It's High quality stuff.


Its pre-applied, not pre-cured - as Shin-Etsu has no curing time. Most modern TIMS do not have curing times.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyStarV*
> 
> Would be a issue of pre applied TIM causing air bubbles/pockets?


Nope, don't worry about getting air bubbles from the pre-applied compound.


----------



## DrockinWV

Really I guess my main worry is that when I was applying the pump and TIM to my CPU I didnt line it up very well the first time so I had to pull it off and reapply. Ive heard you are able to do this a time or 2 but no more than that. Since my temps are not that great I was thinking maybe the TIM was messed up or just not applied right since I did have to pull the block off. I do have Noctua NT-H1 left over from my previous cooler and can apply that instead of the TIM that came with the H100i, anyone think that would work any better? I guess it at least would be worth a shot.


----------



## lawrencendlw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Its pre-applied, not pre-cured - as Shin-Etsu has no curing time. Most modern TIMS do not have curing times.
> Nope, don't worry about getting air bubbles from the pre-applied compound.


Well yeah. They don't have cure times anymore which is why I used the " " lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Really I guess my main worry is that when I was applying the pump and TIM to my CPU I didnt line it up very well the first time so I had to pull it off and reapply. Ive heard you are able to do this a time or 2 but no more than that. Since my temps are not that great I was thinking maybe the TIM was messed up or just not applied right since I did have to pull the block off. I do have Noctua NT-H1 left over from my previous cooler and can apply that instead of the TIM that came with the H100i, anyone think that would work any better? I guess it at least would be worth a shot.


I haven't heard that before. I always suggest that anyone remove and reapply TIM any time that they remove their CPU cooler. Unless they haven't actually tightened it down yet and are still in the process of adjusting it. It's very easy to get an air bubble in the TIM if your not careful with how you handle it. And as we all know, Air is the enemy of cooling lol.


----------



## MCFC

Quick. X60 or H110?


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> Quick. X60 or H110?


H110 is suppose to be a beast if you can fit it, Id go with that... NZXT products are junk


----------



## DrockinWV

Here are some of the temps im getting with my H100i before changing my TIM while folding... this look normal to anyone?


----------



## MCFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> H110 is suppose to be a beast if you can fit it, Id go with that... NZXT products are junk


It should fit into the phantom 820 right


----------



## lawrencendlw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> It should fit into the phantom 820 right


Yes. I put a H100 in a friends Phantom and it fit with room to spare. And they are very similar in size.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw*
> 
> Yes. I put a H100 in a friends Phantom and it fit with room to spare. And they are very similar in size.


Just want to make sure that you're aware that the H100 uses 2x120mm fans, whereas the H110 uses 2x140mm fans - so they're not really the same size....


----------



## DrockinWV

i do believe there is a guide on page 1....


----------



## lawrencendlw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Just want to make sure that you're aware that the H100 uses 2x120mm fans, whereas the H110 uses 2x140mm fans - so they're not really the same size....


Yeah I am aware of that. But the Phantom is a big case and even if there aren't pre drilled holes for it, you can always rely on zip ties lol. his is OCN afterall. If it doesn't fit then make it


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

There are something like a dozen different NZXT Phantom cases of varying sizes from mid-tower to full tower. Looking at the specs for the Phantom 820 for example, which is I believe the largest/most expensive Phantom case if I'm not mistaken, it seems like a 280 AIO like a Corsair H110 might fit, but the case is not mentioned as being H110 compatible in the *H80 / H80i / H90 / H100 / H100i / H110 Case Compatibility Thread*:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattyd893*
> 
> [...]
> 
> *H110 (280x140mm Version of H100)*
> 
> *Cooler Master*
> Cosmos 2
> Fits in top in Push/Pull using 200mm case fans, requires some light modding. See - H110
> HAF 932
> Fits in top with caveats - H110
> Comprehensive post of top mounted H110
> 
> *Thermaltake*
> Chaser Mk-1
> Fits in top - H110
> Level 10gt
> Fits in top in push or pull - H110
> 
> *Corsair*
> carbide 300r
> Fits on top with some minor mod. See - H110
> Vengeance C70
> Fits in the top in push pull - See H110
> Top Mounted Push/Pull Setup - H110
> 
> *Fractal Design*
> Arc Midi
> Fits in the front - H110
> Arc Midi R2
> Fits in the front, very minor mod - H110


FWIW, it seems like there's probably a lot of cases that can fit an H110 that are not listed there but should be.

That said, nor is any 280 AIO shown as being compatible with any Phantom case in the '_Large Liquid Cooling Radiators_' list in the first post of the *NZXT PHANTOM Owner's Club thread*. It just seems to say that only 240mm coolers are compatible with NZXT Phantoms:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> [...]
> 
> *Large Liquid Cooling Radiators*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 240mm radiators will fit natively at the top of the case.
> 
> With the included radiator offset/support brackets, 200mm fans can remain.
> 
> *240mm Liquid Cooling Kits confirmed to FIT:*
> 
> XSPC Rasa RX 240
> 
> Corsair H100
> 
> 360mm radiator custom fitting
> Custom Bracket made by Kaged
> Custom Bracket fabricated by KGTuning
> 
> *XSPC Rasa RX/RS240 Phantom Install Guide by num1son*
> 
> Great guide for installing the XSPC Rasa 240 kit into the NZXT Phantom!
> 
> 
> [...]


I'm not saying an H110 won't fit natively or that whatever Phantom case you're considering can't be fairly easily modded to fit a 280 AIO (fitting a larger rad in a spot than a case was made for typically requires a lot more than "zip ties" or just drilling a few holes), but if so that info should probably get added to both of those club threads because they both seem to infer otherwise.


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I would stop doing that if I were you. Most of the better companies are using TIM that is better than Arctic Silver 5. That said, I do remove the stock TIM and replace it with either Shin-Etsu or GC Extreme...No curing time....


Stop using Arctic Silver 5 or removing the factory TIM? I've used AS5 in my 1st (air cooled) and 2nd (liquid cooled) builds and was pretty happy with it. It is the thermal paste my friend who got me into building custom computers used. That was quite a few years back as he isn't into the hobby anymore. But I will give the factory TIM a go with my H100i. If I ever have to remove it for whatever reason I will pick up either Shin-Etsu or GC Extreme TIM. I haven't been around the custom computer world in a few years now so I'm kind of behind in what's going on.

Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFangs1381*
> 
> Stop using Arctic Silver 5 or removing the factory TIM? I've used AS5 in my 1st (air cooled) and 2nd (liquid cooled) builds and was pretty happy with it. It is the thermal paste my friend who got me into building custom computers used. That was quite a few years back as he isn't into the hobby anymore. But I will give the factory TIM a go with my H100i. If I ever have to remove it for whatever reason I will pick up either Shin-Etsu or GC Extreme TIM. I haven't been around the custom computer world in a few years now so I'm kind of behind in what's going on.
> 
> Wolf_Fangs1381


I was referring to the Arctic Silver 5. These days, it's way too much hassle for the performance that you get from it (200+ hour curing time). Shin-Etsu and GC Extreme are both top performers with no curing time - and way better performance as well. So they're at their peak as soon as you power on your rig.









Antec Formula 7, and Prolimatech PK-3 are also good ones to use.


----------



## Alien1099

Got my H110 installed in my Corsair C70.








Need to get new right angle hard drive cables and reroute the PCI Express cables and I'm DONE!


----------



## MCFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alien1099*
> 
> Got my H110 installed in my Corsair C70.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need to get new right angle hard drive cables and reroute the PCI Express cables and I'm DONE!


Let us know how the temps are!


----------



## TopicClocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alien1099*
> 
> Got my H110 installed in my Corsair C70.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need to get new right angle hard drive cables and reroute the PCI Express cables and I'm DONE!


A fine build you have there, I really like the Corsair logo they have on their coolers.

I'm soo tempted to go liquid cooling, will research more into it first before I bite the bullet.
I heard that it's okay to move around builds with liquid cooling, would it be even safer with AIOs? I plan to get something like a Silverstone SG09 or SG10 and take it to a friends house and maybe put it in the SUGO-PACK but I'm not sure how it would work or how safe it would be for the PC.


----------



## Alien1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TopicClocker*
> 
> A fine build you have there, I really like the Corsair logo they have on their coolers.
> 
> I'm soo tempted to go liquid cooling, will research more into it first before I bite the bullet.
> I heard that it's okay to move around builds with liquid cooling, would it be even safer with AIOs? I plan to get something like a Silverstone SG09 or SG10 and take it to a friends house and maybe put it in the SUGO-PACK but I'm not sure how it would work or how safe it would be for the PC.


If a custom loop was done right then it should be safe to move it around. Some might not be as leak resistant upside down though I suppose (my EK res I used to have was missing the upper O-Ring from the factory and when I finally asked for one and went to install it, it cracked due to a known defect!). My buddy did a custom job for another friend that was out of state and shipped the case with the loop prefilled and it arrived fine. That guy spared no expense with fittings and stuff though (I believe they were all compression).

All in one units like the Corsair should be even safer. Corsair very specifically tightly seals their units. Remember, they are designed to be shipped in a box while completely filled and they will see abuse during shipping yet they arrive perfectly fine. You don't really need to know anything about water cooling if you get an all in one unit. You simply install the radiator and fans to a proper mounting point then pop on the CPU block and plug the fans and CPU block in and you're done. The Corsair unit should never require maintenance and is guaranteed for five years I believe.


----------



## TopicClocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alien1099*
> 
> If a custom loop was done right then it should be safe to move it around. Some might not be as leak resistant upside down though I suppose (my EK res I used to have was missing the upper O-Ring from the factory and when I finally asked for one and went to install it, it cracked due to a known defect!). My buddy did a custom job for another friend that was out of state and shipped the case with the loop prefilled and it arrived fine. That guy spared no expense with fittings and stuff though (I believe they were all compression).
> 
> All in one units like the Corsair should be even safer. Corsair very specifically tightly seals their units. Remember, they are designed to be shipped in a box while completely filled and they will see abuse during shipping yet they arrive perfectly fine. You don't really need to know anything about water cooling if you get an all in one unit. You simply install the radiator and fans to a proper mounting point then pop on the CPU block and plug the fans and CPU block in and you're done. The Corsair unit should never require maintenance and is guaranteed for five years I believe.


Oh thanks for the information.


----------



## RX7-2nr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> H110 is suppose to be a beast if you can fit it, Id go with that... NZXT products are junk


That is hilarious considering that NZXT doesn't even make the X60.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> Quick. X60 or H110?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> H110 is suppose to be a beast if you can fit it, Id go with that... NZXT products are junk


H110 and X60 are both made by Asetek

http://asetek.com/customers/do-it-yourself/corsair/corsair%C2%AE-hydro-series-h110.aspx
http://asetek.com/customers/do-it-yourself/nzxt/nzxt-kraken-x60.aspx


----------



## Alien1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> H110 and X60 are both made by Asetek
> 
> http://asetek.com/customers/do-it-yourself/corsair/corsair%C2%AE-hydro-series-h110.aspx
> http://asetek.com/customers/do-it-yourself/nzxt/nzxt-kraken-x60.aspx


That's pretty funny. I saw that logo on the backplate and thought it was odd. I figured Corsair probably subbed out manufacture to somebody else, but thought they would have at least designed their own product. It doesn't bother me, by any means. I'm happy with it for only one day of ownership.


----------



## Aonex

Hi guys, I have a question regarding a noisy H100i water block. For some reason, lately when the motherboard is aligned horizontally I'm hearing a lot of noise coming from the water block, but when I align the motherboard vertically the noise goes away. Is this a common issue with water block alignment? FYI, my system is not currently in a case, just have it out on an anti-static mat, but this was also the case when it was in a Corsair 250D (horizontal orientation). Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## RX7-2nr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alien1099*
> 
> That's pretty funny. I saw that logo on the backplate and thought it was odd. I figured Corsair probably subbed out manufacture to somebody else, but thought they would have at least designed their own product. It doesn't bother me, by any means. I'm happy with it for only one day of ownership.


No matter who's name is on the package, almost all of these AIO coolers are either made by Asetek or Coolit. Coolermaster is one of the only manufacturers that made their own (Seidon series) and they were sued for it.


----------



## MCFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> That is hilarious considering that NZXT doesn't even make the X60.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> H110 and X60 are both made by Asetek
> 
> http://asetek.com/customers/do-it-yourself/corsair/corsair%C2%AE-hydro-series-h110.aspx
> http://asetek.com/customers/do-it-yourself/nzxt/nzxt-kraken-x60.aspx


So which one is better?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> So which one is better?


There is no difference. They are the same unit.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> So which one is better?


They are much the same product, but with different fans and different logo on the pump-block.

This review explains some of differences: http://www.maximumpc.com/corsair_h110_review


----------



## pmienke

the link is broken for the H100i owners


----------



## darkelixa

Corsair for a longer warranty


----------



## MCFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> They are much the same product, but with different fans and different logo on the pump-block.
> 
> This review explains some of differences: http://www.maximumpc.com/corsair_h110_review


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> There is no difference. They are the same unit.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Corsair for a longer warranty


Thanks guys but I think the Kraken x61 will have a 6 year warranty I doubt Corsair offers the same?


----------



## Alien1099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> Thanks guys but I think the Kraken x61 will have a 6 year warranty I doubt Corsair offers the same?


Box for Corsair says 5 years.


----------



## BradleyW

Corsair is only good for warranty if you live in Nederlands or US since those are the only two places in the western would that have RMA centres for Corsair. Not sure about the eastern places. Maybe Corsair have an RMA dept in Tiepei or something like that. As for NZXT, not a clue. I remember setting up an RMA with Corsair. I had to ship a PSU to Nederlands from the UK. Since it was a heavy item, the postage was about £70! However shipping from UK to Germany is a 3rd of that price, yet Germany a little further. So I guess follow the warranty. Whichever best suites your warranty needs should determine which unit is the best since they are the exact same unit.

Edit: Nederlands is not a spelling mistake. I just written Netherlands in Dutch. I only know a few sentences in Dutch. I'm more of an Icelandic speaker. But my first language of course is English UK standard, since I'm British.


----------



## LuckyStarV

I shipped my PSU down from Canada to Cali in US and it was about $25 CAD with Fed Ex

Shipping does suck which is why I went MSI for my motherbaords since they're usually decently priced and I'm a 30 min drive from one of their RMA centres


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> That is hilarious considering that NZXT doesn't even make the X60.
> 
> H110 and X60 are both made by Asetek
> 
> http://asetek.com/customers/do-it-yourself/corsair/corsair%C2%AE-hydro-series-h110.aspx
> http://asetek.com/customers/do-it-yourself/nzxt/nzxt-kraken-x60.aspx


Well damn *open mouth insert foot*


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> I think I will try and reapply the TIM first to see if that helps any, I have some left over Noctua NT-H1 I will use. I really would like to stay away from trying to delit (im just not that hardcore yet lol). If the temps dont drop down to where I believe they should be for the H100i, I will go ahead and try using the spacers to get a tighter fit on the block. I appreciate your help!!
> 
> Does the TIM that comes standard on the H100i require a long "burn in" period, if thats the case maybe the temps are high just because the TIM has not properally cured?


No, I have never heard of the Dow Corning TIM needing a cure period.

AS5 doesn't need a 'burn-in' period, so to speak, but a curing time. This happens under normal use, and improves over time as you shut the system down, and it cools, and then you use the system and it heats up. Last I checked the curing time for AS5 was 50 to 200 hours of use:

http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I would stop doing that if I were you. Most of the better companies are using TIM that is better than Arctic Silver 5. That said, I do remove the stock TIM and replace it with either Shin-Etsu or GC Extreme...No curing time....


Fully cured AS5 is as good as the best TIMs out there, including Shin Estu. Corsair tested the Dow Corning TIM and they say it's just as good as Shin Etsu, and it also has no curing time. So, if you're replacing the TIM on new Corsair AIO water coolers when they are brand new, you're just wasting your own time and money.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I was referring to the Arctic Silver 5. These days, it's way too much hassle for the performance that you get from it (200+ hour curing time). Shin-Etsu and GC Extreme are both top performers with no curing time - and way better performance as well. So they're at their peak as soon as you power on your rig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Antec Formula 7, and Prolimatech PK-3 are also good ones to use.


Bud, I have to ask you to link us to your information that says Shin Estu performs "way better" than AS5. I will provide a link below, showing a very well known test of assorted TIMs showing AS5 competing head to head with Shin Etsu. I have been using AS5 for years, and not just on my own builds, but professionally in my line of work on customer's computers and gaming rigs. AS5 is not "old fashioned", the reason it's still very popular is because it works quite excellently.

Here's one, where the graph specifically shows AS5 being the 3rd best TIM they tested.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Thermal-Compound-Roundup-February-2012/1490/5

And here's another showing AS5 in a tie with Shin Etsu:

http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=12

So, please stop telling people that AS5 is not a good TIM. It's one of the best.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> So which one is better?


The one with the five year warranty is the one I would pick.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Bud, I have to ask you to *link us to your information that says Shin Estu performs "way better" than AS5*. I will provide a link below, showing a very well known test of assorted TIMs showing AS5 competing head to head with Shin Etsu. I have been using AS5 for years, and not just on my own builds, but professionally in my line of work on customer's computers and gaming rigs. AS5 is not "old fashioned", the reason it's still very popular is because it works quite excellently.
> 
> Here's one, where the graph specifically shows AS5 being the 3rd best TIM they tested.
> 
> http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Thermal-Compound-Roundup-February-2012/1490/5
> 
> And here's another showing AS5 in a tie with Shin Etsu:
> 
> http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=12
> 
> So, please stop telling people that AS5 is not a good TIM. It's one of the best.
> The one with the five year warranty is the one I would pick.


I don't need to provide a link, as you already provided one. The link to the Hardware Secrets site shows a graph where Shin-Etsu is 10*C below Arctic Silver 5. A 10 degree difference is not what I would call "head to head".

If you look at my comments, I have never said that AS5 is bad, I have just said that there are better TIMs - which is completely true.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> The link to the Hardware Secrets site shows a graph where Shin-Etsu is 10*C below Arctic Silver 5.


Not sure how you are reading that graph, but I see AS5 has 33C delta, and SE has 35C delta.


----------



## MCFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Corsair is only good for warranty if you live in Nederlands or US since those are the only two places in the western would that have RMA centres for Corsair. Not sure about the eastern places. Maybe Corsair have an RMA dept in Tiepei or something like that. As for NZXT, not a clue. I remember setting up an RMA with Corsair. I had to ship a PSU to Nederlands from the UK. Since it was a heavy item, the postage was about £70! However shipping from UK to Germany is a 3rd of that price, yet Germany a little further. So I guess follow the warranty. Whichever best suites your warranty needs should determine which unit is the best since they are the exact same unit.
> 
> Edit: Nederlands is not a spelling mistake. I just written Netherlands in Dutch. I only know a few sentences in Dutch. I'm more of an Icelandic speaker. But my first language of course is English UK standard, since I'm British.


Thank God I'm Dutch then


----------



## lawrencendlw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> Thank God I'm Dutch then


I do believe that, that is the first time that anyone has thanked god for being Dutch lol


----------



## lawrencendlw

Lol someone Rep+'d me for that last comment. I love you guys. Thats awesome. With that said, I have quite a bit of Dutch in me myself. I'm what you would call a Heinz 57 or a real American. I have a WHOLE LOT of European in me from my mothers side. She was born and raised in Wales.


----------



## PontiacGTX

Guys do you know if the h105 fits the nzxt tempest 410/ tempest evo?
And which is the difference between the h100i and the h105 performance wise in lga1155 sandy bridge

Any word on this @Corsair Joseph / @CorsairGeorge


----------



## MCFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw*
> 
> Lol someone Rep+'d me for that last comment. I love you guys. Thats awesome. With that said, I have quite a bit of Dutch in me myself. I'm what you would call a Heinz 57 or a real American. I have a WHOLE LOT of European in me from my mothers side. She was born and raised in Wales.


yeah I did lol


----------



## lawrencendlw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> yeah I did lol


LOL Well awesome. Thanks haha.


----------



## Fymatdsrio

Hey, I'm hoping to be starting to buy parts soon for my first build. I've been told that (as a first timer) to avoid anything hydro because of potential poor installation (from being a first timer) which could cause leaks? I had been wanting to get the Corsair H100i but would it be a "safer" option to just get an air cooler?


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fymatdsrio*
> 
> Hey, I'm hoping to be starting to buy parts soon for my first build. I've been told that (as a first timer) to avoid anything hydro because of potential poor installation (from being a first timer) which could cause leaks? I had been wanting to get the Corsair H100i but would it be a "safer" option to just get an air cooler?


I had a Noctua NH-U14S air cooler that was pretty much on par with my H100i, I had a guy tell me after I bought my H100i that a high end air cooler such as the Noctua, will out perform or be on the same level as a lower end water cooler. But I think its awesome to say you have a water cooled CPU lol and the LEDs on the H100i pump are pretty sweet.









But as far as leaking, I have not had any problems!


----------



## Fymatdsrio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> I had a Noctua NH-U14S air cooler that was pretty much on par with my H100i, I had a guy tell me after I bought my H100i that a high end air cooler such as the Noctua, will out perform or be on the same level as a lower end water cooler. But I think its awesome to say you have a water cooled CPU lol and the LEDs on the H100i pump are pretty sweet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But as far as leaking, I have not had any problems!


Price isn't much dif at this time. $89.99 for the H100i and $71.75 for the Noctua I'd be getting otherwise. The H100i would def fit in with the look I want to achieve for the rig, though. Otherwise I'd be wanting to buy other LED fans to replace the Noctua ones... I hate their stock color.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fymatdsrio*
> 
> Price isn't much dif at this time. $89.99 for the H100i and $71.75 for the Noctua I'd be getting otherwise. The H100i would def fit in with the look I want to achieve for the rig, though. Otherwise I'd be wanting to buy other LED fans to replace the Noctua ones... I hate their stock color.


They are definitely love or hate the color scheme, I happen to like their colors (mainly just because you know what they are as soon as you see them and they are very high quality) keep in mind though if you want the H100i and being quiet is a priority you will have to replace the Corsair fans.


----------



## Fymatdsrio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> They are definitely love or hate the color scheme, I happen to like their colors (mainly just because you know what they are as soon as you see them and they are very high quality) keep in mind though if you want the H100i and being quiet is a priority you will have to replace the Corsair fans.


Sounds like either way I'd need to eventually replace fans, huh?


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fymatdsrio*
> 
> Sounds like either way I'd need to eventually replace fans, huh?


If the sound doesnt bother you when the H100i is under load or you use headphones, you should be alright.


----------



## Fymatdsrio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> If the sound doesnt bother you when the H100i is under load or you use headphones, you should be alright.


I do almost always use headphones, so maybe. I mainly wanted to know if it was "safe" for a first build. Everyone I know IRL said that I shouldn't be trying hydro at all, yet, but the H100i just seems so straightforward.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fymatdsrio*
> 
> I do almost always use headphones, so maybe. I mainly wanted to know if it was "safe" for a first build. Everyone I know IRL said that I shouldn't be trying hydro at all, yet, but the H100i just seems so straightforward.


I wouldnt worry about it, my sig rig is my first build and I attached the H100i to the top of my Fractal Design R4. Try the fans out for awhile and if they are too loud for you replace them down the road. But you might want to look on Corsairs website, I want to say I read that a guy had a cooler leak all over his hardware and Corsair will cover the damages if it happens, but im not toally sure about all of that


----------



## LuckyStarV

Afaik corsair did replace all his parts


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I don't need to provide a link, as you already provided one. The link to the Hardware Secrets site shows a graph where Shin-Etsu is 10*C below Arctic Silver 5. A 10 degree difference is not what I would call "head to head".
> 
> If you look at my comments, I have never said that AS5 is bad, I have just said that there are better TIMs - which is completely true.


If you look at the graph on that comparison, (the graph, not the chart), you will see they are listing "at full load you can see how many degrees Celsius hotter the CPU core is than the air outside the case" (ambient).

At the top of the graph, Prolimatech Termal Compound @ 32c, Tuniq TX-3 @ 32c, and AS5 @ 33c. Note that Dow Corning is also at 33c. If you actually believe there is a 10c difference between Shin Etsu and AS5, well frankly conversation over.

Now, if you would bother looking at the second comparison, I linked to the last page containing the best TIMs for enthusiast grade builds, and gee, Shin Etsu and AS5 are tied neck and neck.

As for your comments, you said that Shun Etsu performs "way better" than AS5, which is B.S.

The basic fact is, if anyone here has AS5 available and don't know if they should use it or not, they should. It is one of the best TIMs on the market, and temps will improve roughly another 3c over about a two week period depending on how much they use their computer.

By the way, these are not the only comparisons that show how well AS5 performs. There are a lot out there. Perhaps you should do a little research on the subject.

All the TIMs we are discussing are great TIMs, my point is that AS5 is included in that category. People will get a larger temp difference by poor application than they will between Shin Etsu and AS5.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PontiacGTX*
> 
> Guys do you know if the h105 fits the nzxt tempest 410/ tempest evo?
> And which is the difference between the h100i and the h105 performance wise in lga1155 sandy bridge
> 
> Any word on this @Corsair Joseph / @CorsairGeorge


Not 100% sure, but you might be able to fit it by mounting the fans on top then rad inside the case. I really don't know exactly how much clearance you have from the top of the case to the upper part of the MB tray. If that case has a space a little over than 38mm, then it should be fine. Assuming the MB's upper part doesn't have heatsinks to block the radiator.


----------



## PontiacGTX

Thanks Joseph,my concern was if the mounting holes of the h100i=h105 ,my case fits a h100i,but as far as I can see the h105 has thocker rad,but does it really mkae a big difference at lga1155 at 1.4? I see a difference in lga2011 but that tdp is higher than mine and the difference seems to be lower at a lower tdp,thanks again


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> If you look at the graph on that comparison, (the graph, not the chart), you will see they are listing "at full load you can see how many degrees Celsius hotter the CPU core is than the air outside the case" (ambient).
> 
> At the top of the graph, Prolimatech Termal Compound @ 32c, Tuniq TX-3 @ 32c, and AS5 @ 33c. Note that Dow Corning is also at 33c. If you actually believe there is a 10c difference between Shin Etsu and AS5, well frankly conversation over.
> 
> Now, if you would bother looking at the second comparison, I linked to the last page containing the best TIMs for enthusiast grade builds, and gee, Shin Etsu and AS5 are tied neck and neck.
> 
> As for your comments, you said that Shun Etsu performs "way better" than AS5, which is B.S.
> 
> The basic fact is, if anyone here has AS5 available and don't know if they should use it or not, they should. It is one of the best TIMs on the market, and temps will improve roughly another 3c over about a two week period depending on how much they use their computer.
> 
> By the way, these are not the only comparisons that show how well AS5 performs. There are a lot out there. Perhaps you should do a little research on the subject.
> 
> All the TIMs we are discussing are great TIMs, my point is that AS5 is included in that category. People will get a larger temp difference by poor application than they will between Shin Etsu and AS5.


Are you even reading my comments? I have never said that AS5 is a bad TIM, what I have said is that there are better ones out there that require no curing time. I do think its funny that there were 2 articles that were linked to, and I reference one, while you reference the other.

My concern is this: one chart shows a delta of 10*C between AS5 and Shin-Etsu, while the other shows that they are neck-and-neck. You don't see anything wrong with that kind of difference?

In summary: if a person has AS5 to work with, then by all means, use it. However, if you're going out to buy one, then I would recommend getting Shin-Etsu, Formula 7, PK-3, or GC Extreme.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> My concern is this: one chart shows a delta of 10*C between AS5 and Shin-Etsu, while the other shows that they are neck-and-neck. You don't see anything wrong with that kind of difference?


I responded to you before. Chart shows AS5 is 2C better than Shin-Etsu. Maybe you were looking at the Core Temp column by mistake?


----------



## lawrencendlw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I responded to you before. Chart shows AS5 is 2C better than Shin-Etsu. Maybe you were looking at the Core Temp column by mistake?


I replaced tgw)

Lol the way that I read that chart is that shin etsu Tim is 2°C cooler than AS5. That's just how I interpreted the chart. But I think that we can all agree that both AS5 and Shin Etsu are amazing TIM's and that Shin Etsu requires no cure time where as AS5 does require a cure time. However, I have found that the cure time on AS5 isn't all that bad. I ran IBT and Prime95 for 24 hours, shut down for an hour, and did it all again for a few days and then I saw vast improvements on my temps. Of course now I am using Ic Diamond since I got 5 tubes of it for free a couple of years ago.


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I responded to you before. Chart shows AS5 is 2C better than Shin-Etsu. Maybe you were looking at the Core Temp column by mistake?


Not to belabor the TIM discussion but the chart tells a very clear story. It would seem that at higher ambient and core temps AS5 is damn good, remembering SEM was tested at 14c, a full 10c cooler ambient temp i.e. it has the benefit of heat dissipation!

Of course, I would also say that the test was NOT a very good comparison because the ambient and cpu temps were not "close" enough. The TIMs could have completely different "cooling" performance based on cpu temp









So much for consistency.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubfoot*
> 
> Of course, I would also say that the test was NOT a very good comparison because the ambient and cpu temps were not "close" enough. The TIMs could have completely different "cooling" performance based on cpu temp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So much for consistency.


HardwareSecret's method of subtracting ambient from core temperature is perfectly accurate and consistent.

You see, heat transfer between materials is precisely determined by delta-T unless there is a phase change in the material. I.e. unless the TIM turned to liquid or gas, there would be no extra energy expended cooling a hotter chip than a cooler one. Nor would ambient air cool a chip any better or worse at 14C than 24C.

If you want to learn more about this you can check Fourier's Law which states (from wiki) "that the time rate of heat transfer through a material is proportional to the _negative gradient in the temperature_ and to the area..." Hence we look only at the difference in temperatures between two materials, and not at the absolute values.


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Ah hell. What have I started. lol

Well I will definitely be keeping my tubes of AS5 for whenever I need to remove the H100i waterpump/block or any other cpu coolers. I did see vast improvements when I used AS5 on my 1st and 2nd build. I always shut my computers down when I'm done,so curing the AS5 isn't a problem for me. I've never used Prime 95 before after setting up my builds. With my luck something would happen if I were to leave the computer on for 24 hours,and during the time period I am sleeping. I don't need another 2nd build mishap as that was not fun at all. I do appreciate the knowledge you all have and I plan to keep learning. Thanks for posting links to those charts also. This has become my hobby (although more costly than my last hobby) and at some point I'm hoping to make it my way of making a living.

Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## darkelixa

Getting a H 100i for my next build, so heres hoping that the pump doesnt break or it leak


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I was referring to the Arctic Silver 5. These days, it's way too much hassle for the performance that you get from it (200+ hour curing time). Shin-Etsu and GC Extreme are both top performers with no curing time - and way better performance as well. So they're at their peak as soon as you power on your rig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Antec Formula 7, and Prolimatech PK-3 are also good ones to use.


Here is your post saying *"and way better performance as well"*

You question was, "am I even reading your posts"? It seems I am paying more attention to your posts than you are.
I referenced both of those articles, and I specifically said to look at the graph, not the chart. In either case, both the graph and the chart show AS5 as being an excellent TIM. I'm not saying that Shin Estu is bad or anything, I'm only saying that AS5 is a great TIM and performs just as well as Shin Etsu after it cures.

It all comes down to the quote above: *"and way better performance as well"* - which is not true. This entire discussion was me trying to show other uncertain members that AS5 is a great TIM, and rebutting the comment you made in that quote. Now you're trying to say you never said "as5 is a bad tim", maybe not in so many words, but "way better performance" basically means the same thing.

We could split hairs and say that the cure time = poor performance, but I couldn't even agree with that. For me, after a week of use the compound is cured and temps are excellent. Even during the cure time, there might be only 3c difference anyway. At least, that's been my experience. If a user has to have maximum best temps immediately (maybe someone pushing the edge in overclocking), then ordering in something like Shin Etsu to have with their rig would be a good idea. However, they could stick with the TIM on the Corsair cooler anyway, and just order something to use as spare. If someone removed their block for some reason, and they had as5 available to use it's still a great choice. Even uncured, it's still better than many other TIMs.
Now, if I was in a store, and they had both as5 and Shin Etsu, well, that's different. I would get Shin Etsu as well. If AS5 was all they had, it wouldn't bother me as a 2nd choice. It's good stuff.


----------



## Erick Silver

Right. So mid last week I suspected that my H60 was starting to fail. I saw the RPMs on the CPU Fan Header fluctuating from 2700 to 4500 rpm and figured that the pump was starting to fail. So I contacted Corsair and put in a RMA ticket on the 5th. This evening I closed the ticket as I received no response. Even though the ticket process specifically stated that a Rep will contact you in at least 2 business days. So that would be Friday and Monday meaning they should have contacted me on Tuesday. But now its Late Thursday early Friday. So frustrated right now.


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> HardwareSecret's method of subtracting ambient from core temperature is perfectly accurate and consistent.
> 
> You see, heat transfer between materials is precisely determined by delta-T unless there is a phase change in the material. I.e. unless the TIM turned to liquid or gas, there would be no extra energy expended cooling a hotter chip than a cooler one. Nor would ambient air cool a chip any better or worse at 14C than 24C.
> 
> If you want to learn more about this you can check Fourier's Law which states (from wiki) "that the time rate of heat transfer through a material is proportional to the _negative gradient in the temperature_ and to the area..." Hence we look only at the difference in temperatures between two materials, and not at the absolute values.


Woooo buddy. You've thrown allot of ifs, and and buts into your response. And I don't think you're grasping what you are saying.

TIMs turning into liquid or gas, there would be no extra energy expended *cooling a hotter chip than a cooler one. Nor would ambient air cool a chip any better or worse at 14c or 24c!*

Are you sure this is what you want to say?! Because if you do we have a real problem happening in the REAL world!

Think about it!

And BTW that quote of Fourier's Law (time rate of heat transfer through a material) has nothing to do with what we are talking about but relates to surface area or "mass" of the cooling material (without me reading the whole article of course) just your quote.


----------



## darkelixa

Did you check your junk mail for a responce? or even call them?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Right. So mid last week I suspected that my H60 was starting to fail. I saw the RPMs on the CPU Fan Header fluctuating from 2700 to 4500 rpm and figured that the pump was starting to fail. So I contacted Corsair and put in a RMA ticket on the 5th. This evening I closed the ticket as I received no response. Even though the ticket process specifically stated that a Rep will contact you in at least 2 business days. So that would be Friday and Monday meaning they should have contacted me on Tuesday. But now its Late Thursday early Friday. So frustrated right now.


Did you check for a response on the Corsair site?


----------



## Erick Silver

Yeah checked for a response, even tried to connect to a live chat. after trying to connect for 45 min I closed it. I will try again at the beginning of next week.


----------



## darkelixa

OMG just ring them


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubfoot*
> 
> Woooo buddy. You've thrown allot of ifs, and and buts into your response. And I don't think you're grasping what you are saying.
> 
> TIMs turning into liquid or gas, there would be no extra energy expended *cooling a hotter chip than a cooler one. Nor would ambient air cool a chip any better or worse at 14c or 24c!*
> 
> Are you sure this is what you want to say?! Because if you do we have a real problem happening in the REAL world!
> 
> Think about it!
> 
> And BTW that quote of Fourier's Law (time rate of heat transfer through a material) has nothing to do with what we are talking about but relates to surface area or "mass" of the cooling material (without me reading the whole article of course) just your quote.


I think the part you've bolded there, I can see how you've misunderstood what I've meant to say. If you will allow me to rephrase:

"Let's say a chip is cooled to 44C when ambient air is 14C takes energy X. Then raising the ambient air temperature to 24C with no other changes (e.g. phase changes), will mean the chip runs at 54C, also needing energy X."

Is that clearer?

And about Fourier's Law: it is a universal model. It is the underpinning of most of our understanding about thermal conductivity and provides the basis for pretty much all equations referencing heat transfer.


----------



## clubfoot

Okay, we are back on track. and it's fine to talk about energy and heat transfer between materials, but be are also talking about dissipating that heat to the surrounding ambient air temperature! And based on your previous statement,...*.Nor would ambient air cool a chip any better or worse at 14c or 24c*,...that's were my issue is.

Simply put without having to dig into my engineering degree,...a car, a house, a cpu cooler would dissipate/transfer that heat energy more efficiently in cooler air than hot air as it tries to come to equilibrium. I am saying that ambient air DOES affect a cpu cooler's (thus the cpu) ability to cool a cpu! Kinda double said what I said,...but you understand, right.

Unless, I again misinterpreted your state about ambient air not affecting cooling ability.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Right. So mid last week I suspected that my H60 was starting to fail. I saw the RPMs on the CPU Fan Header fluctuating from 2700 to 4500 rpm and figured that the pump was starting to fail. So I contacted Corsair and put in a RMA ticket on the 5th. This evening I closed the ticket as I received no response. Even though the ticket process specifically stated that a Rep will contact you in at least 2 business days. So that would be Friday and Monday meaning they should have contacted me on Tuesday. But now its Late Thursday early Friday. So frustrated right now.


Sorry about that Erick. Our support guys are typically on top of things, they were probably pretty slammed for the last couple of days. Send me your ticket # and I will personally look into it.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubfoot*
> 
> a cpu cooler would dissipate/transfer that heat energy more efficiently in cooler air than hot air as it tries to come to equilibrium. I am saying that ambient air DOES affect a cpu cooler's (thus the cpu) ability to cool a cpu! Kinda double said what I said,...but you understand, right.


The ambient air temperature affects the equilibrium temperature reached of the CPU cores, of course it does. But I suspect the misunderstanding is when you say "more efficiently". Cold air is not more efficient at transferring heat, it's just colder. Let's go back to your initial post, that my comments are responding to
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubfoot*
> 
> Of course, I would also say that the test was NOT a very good comparison because the ambient and cpu temps were not "close" enough. The TIMs could have completely different "cooling" performance based on cpu temp


If you set up a test CPU in a room that is 14C. Before you switch it on, the CPU is 14C. Then you switch it on and heat energy X is dissipated that can be measured in watts. The dissipation can be calculated using variations on Fourier's equation by knowing the contact surface dimensions, material conductivity and the temperature difference between: CPU to the TIM, TIM to CPU cooler, CPU cooler to ambient air. The CPU comes to an equilbrium temperature of 44C, a delta of 30C between CPU temperature and ambient temperature.

Then you turn off the airco, and the room warms to 24C. The CPU+TIM+cooler is still dissipating X watts, but now the delta of 30C means the CPU temperature rises accordingly to 54C.

I think, based on your statements, that you disagree and instead believe the CPU temperature in the second example would be somehow higher.

So I would like to understand how you believe heat transfer works.


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> The ambient air temperature affects the equilibrium temperature reached of the CPU cores, of course it does. But I suspect the misunderstanding is when you say "more efficiently". Cold air is not more efficient at transferring heat, it's just colder. Let's go back to your initial post, that my comments are responding to
> If you set up a test CPU in a room that is 14C. Before you switch it on, the CPU is 14C. Then you switch it on and heat energy X is dissipated that can be measured in watts. The dissipation can be calculated using variations on Fourier's equation by knowing the contact surface dimensions, material conductivity and the temperature difference between: CPU to the TIM, TIM to CPU cooler, CPU cooler to ambient air. The CPU comes to an equilbrium temperature of 44C, a delta of 30C between CPU temperature and ambient temperature.
> 
> Then you turn off the airco, and the room warms to 24C. The CPU+TIM+cooler is still dissipating X watts, but now the delta of 30C means the CPU temperature rises accordingly to 54C.
> 
> I think, based on your statements, that you disagree and instead believe the CPU temperature in the second example would be somehow higher.
> 
> So I would like to understand how you believe heat transfer works.


"Efficient" was a poor choice of words.
I get the whole heat transfer thing and using delta as means of accounting for changing ambient temperature IF the heat dissipation stays constant. But Why?

Why would anyone throw poor Mr Fourier under the bus to explain away tardy testing procedures. Look at all the information you need! "The dissipation can be calculated using variations on Fourier's equation by knowing *the contact surface dimensions,....material conductivity.....the temperature difference between: CPU to the TIM,......TIM to CPU cooler, .........CPU cooler to ambient air.*
How does this help a user make an informed TIM purchasing decision?!

All we want to know is did the cpu run cooler with TIM X!

Let's go back and take a look at the chart posted.

If I want to test the performance of various TIMs, I ONLY change the TIM! And keep all controllable variables like ambient air temp constant as humanly possible and remove it from the equation,...so to speak







I just removed Fourier and delta.

If I change ONLY the TIM and keep "constant" ambient air temperature and the cpu temp rises compared to another TIM, the TIM under test is poorer in performance,...period. No Fourier, no equations and the nice thing is that anyone can repeat the results, which is the bases for good, accurate testing. The one with the lowest cpu temp is the one I would buy.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubfoot*
> 
> I get the whole heat transfer thing and using delta as means of accounting for changing ambient temperature IF the heat dissipation stays constant.


Are you sure?

As an end user, you don't need to understand Fourier, or calculate anything further than subtracting ambient from core temp.

If you can show some actual scientific models that disprove this, then I'm happy to continue the discussion, but for the moment I have to conclude you are just being stubborn


----------



## Erick Silver

It's the damndest thing. Recently I have been having issues with my CPU Temps being too high. Turns out that for some strange reason even after I had it turned off in the Bios the Fan Regulation(or whatever the heck its called) was turned on. So that was why I was getting RPM Fluctuations on the pump. Also, I took the block off the CPU to replace the TIM just in case. Only to find out that I did not have enough TIM to put the block back on. Crap. Okay, need the computer running what to do? Then it hit me. I had read an article here on OCN about using other paste like substances as the Interface Materiel. Toothpaste was on that list. I have that. So I putt a small bit on the block crossed my fingers and reinstalled.

Idle temps are 31*c and Max Load temp under AIDA 64 stress test, 53*c. Jeeze are you kidding me???

Now I do realize that using the toothpaste is probably only going to work temporarily. But those temps are awesome!

Just wanted to share.


----------



## felix

You'll probably have the first CPU treated for dental diseases....


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> It's the damndest thing. Recently I have been having issues with my CPU Temps being too high. Turns out that for some strange reason even after I had it turned off in the Bios the Fan Regulation(or whatever the heck its called) was turned on. So that was why I was getting RPM Fluctuations on the pump. Also, I took the block off the CPU to replace the TIM just in case. Only to find out that I did not have enough TIM to put the block back on. Crap. Okay, need the computer running what to do? Then it hit me. I had read an article here on OCN about using other paste like substances as the Interface Materiel. Toothpaste was on that list. I have that. So I putt a small bit on the block crossed my fingers and reinstalled.
> 
> Idle temps are 31*c and Max Load temp under AIDA 64 stress test, 53*c. Jeeze are you kidding me???
> 
> Now I do realize that using the toothpaste is probably only going to work temporarily. But those temps are awesome!
> 
> Just wanted to share.


LOL, that's GREAT man, way to go. I'll have to remember that in case of emergency! You gave me a smile









Also nice to see that your cooler was working properly. I wonder how it changed settings in BIOS by itself?


----------



## clubfoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Are you sure?
> 
> As an end user, you don't need to understand Fourier, or calculate anything further than subtracting ambient from core temp.
> 
> If you can show some actual scientific models that disprove this, then I'm happy to continue the discussion, but for the moment I have to conclude you are just being stubborn


Of course I'm being stubborn







I don't want to have to subtract anything,....LOL. I just want to look at the chart and see the TIMs with the coolest cpu temps.

When you went into all the stuff you'd need to know to use Fourier transformations and delta it was too good of an opportunity to pass up


----------



## jakku

Just installed my first closed loop cooling. showing 20C difference with a pull fan operation. loving it. h100.



dusty i know. but its coming apart Thursday to try my luck with closed loop on my gpu as well. wish me luck


----------



## DrockinWV

When I boot up my computer the pump on my H100i has been pink, instead of the red it is set at, does anyone know a fix to this, or if an update is coming soon?


----------



## Lifeshield

Sure the bulbs not going? They seem to go fairly easily on these.


----------



## MCFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakku*
> 
> Just installed my first closed loop cooling. showing 20C difference with a pull fan operation. loving it. h100.
> 
> 
> 
> dusty i know. but its coming apart Thursday to try my luck with closed loop on my gpu as well. wish me luck


20c is a lot. Is push pull really that necessary?


----------



## jakku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> 20c is a lot. Is push pull really that necessary?


well thats a 20C drop from stock intel heatsink. and ill be setting up push/pull tomorrow to see what kind of numbers.

trying to find the best set up with fans right now in this case


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lifeshield*
> 
> Sure the bulbs not going? They seem to go fairly easily on these.


Maybe the blue? I can go into link adjust the colors and get it back to red, but only on start up does the blue not work.


----------



## MCFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakku*
> 
> well thats a 20C drop from stock intel heatsink. and ill be setting up push/pull tomorrow to see what kind of numbers.
> 
> trying to find the best set up with fans right now in this case


Please let us know how much it drops with push pull


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> Please let us know how much it drops with push pull


I 2nd this! I want to go push pull on my H100i with F12s!


----------



## MCFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> I 2nd this! I want to go push pull on my H100i with F12s!


Same but i'm planning on doing that with x61 or h110


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> Same but i'm planning on doing that with x61 or h110


The H110 takes 140mm fans doesnt it? I know the F12s are 120mm are you able to mount those to the H110? Not sure what fans would be good to mount to the rad at 140mm, maybe the A14s?


----------



## jakku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> The H110 takes 140mm fans doesnt it? I know the F12s are 120mm are you able to mount those to the H110? Not sure what fans would be good to mount to the rad at 140mm, maybe the A14s?


this is correct. for 140mm fans ive always seen Aerocool Shark Black Ed. being a top contender.

i shall get the number up tomorrow with some full load screen shots to compare my pull vs push pull


----------



## MCFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> The H110 takes 140mm fans doesnt it? I know the F12s are 120mm are you able to mount those to the H110? Not sure what fans would be good to mount to the rad at 140mm, maybe the A14s?


A15 perhaps?


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> A15 perhaps?


Not sure, I would think a square frame fan would work better, but I havent tried a round frame on a rad


----------



## MCFC

What about the industrial line from noctua? The Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM, 140mm


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> What about the industrial line from noctua? The Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM, 140mm


Im not sure if they are actually out yet or not, I just tried finding them on Amazon with no luck. I would like to use those for all my case fans but I already have 2 of the regular NF-A14s, and thinkg it would look weird having 2 different types of case fans.


----------



## MCFC

I'm not going to be building my new rig yet anyway. Thinking of end of July/begin August. Will await the reviews of the industrial noctua line on noise and performance first.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> I'm not going to be building my new rig yet anyway. Thinking of end of July/begin August. Will await the reviews of the industrial noctua line on noise and performance first.


Thats probably the best way to go about it, good luck with the new build!


----------



## james8

the spreadsheet for the new i series coolers are unavailable. does this club still accept new memberS?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakku*
> 
> Just installed my first closed loop cooling. showing 20C difference with a pull fan operation. loving it. h100.
> 
> 
> 
> dusty i know. but its coming apart Thursday to try my luck with closed loop on my gpu as well. wish me luck


Congrats. That's a great temp drop. Awesome case you're using there too...









When I first got my H70, I had been using a stock Intel cooler on a Socket 775 core 2 Quad. I also got a 20c drop, only that was after a mild overclock from 2.5GHz to 3.3GHz, so I was really happy.
Then, when I moved up to the H100 from the H70 using an i5 system, I got another drop of about 7c average across all my cores during a full Intel Burn Test load.

What cooler were you using before you got the H100?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> The H110 takes 140mm fans doesnt it? I know the F12s are 120mm are you able to mount those to the H110? Not sure what fans would be good to mount to the rad at 140mm, maybe the A14s?


You can get 120mm to 140mm adapters, but they add thickness (like a shroud). Personally, I would just stick with 140mm fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james8*
> 
> the spreadsheet for the new i series coolers are unavailable. does this club still accept new memberS?


No one is moderating this thread at the moment. I'm not sure how to add your name to the list, but you can still copy and use the sig.


----------



## jakku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Congrats. That's a great temp drop. Awesome case you're using there too...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I first got my H70, I had been using a stock Intel cooler on a Socket 775 core 2 Quad. I also got a 20c drop, only that was after a mild overclock from 2.5GHz to 3.3GHz, so I was really happy.
> Then, when I moved up to the H100 from the H70 using an i5 system, I got another drop of about 7c average across all my cores during a full Intel Burn Test load.
> 
> What cooler were you using before you got the H100?
> .


I was also using the stock intel heatsink/fan on my 1155 socket i5-2500k i am comparing temps from overclocked at 4.1 on stock cooler to overclocked currently on 4.6 and running 20c cooler. the TIM on the intel heatsink was not very well applied i must say.


----------



## MrPerforations

hello's,
I just got my h100 back from an rma, the fan controller bust. I had a zalman performa air cooler on it with push pull, I check my temps before fitting the h100, I found it was idling at 30c and when under prime hit 53c at stock clock. the voltage is only 1.26v when running at stock.

I put in my h100 with stock fans and some real weak puller fans, the idle temperature is now 33c and my max temp is 52c.









am I doing something wrong here please?


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPerforations*
> 
> hello's,
> I just got my h100 back from an rma, the fan controller bust. I had a zalman performa air cooler on it with push pull, I check my temps before fitting the h100, I found it was idling at 30c and when under prime hit 53c at stock clock. the voltage is only 1.26v when running at stock.
> 
> I put in my h100 with stock fans and some real weak puller fans, the idle temperature is now 33c and my max temp is 52c.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> am I doing something wrong here please?


Your max temp doesnt seem to high to me, I have a i7-4770k OCed to [email protected] 1.275v my idle is around 28-29c but the max im getting is as high as 80c during stress testing. But usually around 60c under heavy gaming.


----------



## jakku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPerforations*
> 
> hello's,
> I just got my h100 back from an rma, the fan controller bust. I had a zalman performa air cooler on it with push pull, I check my temps before fitting the h100, I found it was idling at 30c and when under prime hit 53c at stock clock. the voltage is only 1.26v when running at stock.
> 
> I put in my h100 with stock fans and some real weak puller fans, the idle temperature is now 33c and my max temp is 52c.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> am I doing something wrong here please?


on my i5-2500k OC'd 4.6ghz i am seeing max of around 75c during full on burn tests. but during normal gaming i run around 55-60. if u think its not right maybe reapply tim?


----------



## dusters16

Not sure if this was already posted, but for anyone trying to get CorsairLink and the h100i / h80i to work on 8.1, here is your fix.

http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128145
then...
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=120962


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Maybe the blue? I can go into link adjust the colors and get it back to red, but only on start up does the blue not work.


What about when you save the pump LED to blue, do you get the blue color when you restart the system? Or you get nothing at all?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPerforations*
> 
> hello's,
> I just got my h100 back from an rma, the fan controller bust. I had a zalman performa air cooler on it with push pull, I check my temps before fitting the h100, I found it was idling at 30c and when under prime hit 53c at stock clock. the voltage is only 1.26v when running at stock.
> 
> I put in my h100 with stock fans and some real weak puller fans, the idle temperature is now 33c and my max temp is 52c.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> am I doing something wrong here please?


Those temps looks pretty reasonable to me. I wouldn't worry about it.

But of course, you can always re seat the pump and see if you can get better temps.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> What about when you save the pump LED to blue, do you get the blue color when you restart the system? Or you get nothing at all?


I will have to get back to you on that, downloading some of the Summer Steam games!! I will change to blue turn the computer off and then restart


----------



## jakku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> Please let us know how much it drops with push pull


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> I 2nd this! I want to go push pull on my H100i with F12s!


just set up push/pull and dropped another 5C... so an overall of 25C drop from stock intel HS/Fan

full load i cant get it over 57C and maximum burn tests haven't gone over 77C. still figuring out best combo of fans for my whole case setup after i get my 2nd rad installed for gpu ill come back with hopefully even better numbers

this is with silenx fans on the h100 btw


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakku*
> 
> just set up push/pull and dropped another 5C... so an overall of 25C drop from stock intel HS/Fan
> 
> full load i cant get it over 57C and maximum burn tests haven't gone over 77C. still figuring out best combo of fans for my whole case setup after i get my 2nd rad installed for gpu ill come back with hopefully even better numbers
> 
> this is with silenx fans on the h100 btw


Do you have this set up as intake or exhaust?

What are your plans for GPU?


----------



## jakku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Do you have this set up as intake or exhaust?
> 
> What are your plans for GPU?


first i set it up as an exhaust but i wasn't happy with the temps i now have it set up as an intake.

Note that my side mesh panel has 4 fans 2 on top exhaust and 2 on bottom intake, which will be part of the push/pull intake radiator on my GPU.

I currently have the G10 and a thermaltake 3.0 extreme that im setting up on the gpu, this weekend.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> What about when you save the pump LED to blue, do you get the blue color when you restart the system? Or you get nothing at all?


I saved the LED to Blue in the link software, turned the computer off for a few minutes, and when I booted up the light was white. After a few minutes the white turned to a very light blue, not as dark as the blue was before the computer was turned off and back on. I can go into Link after the restart turn blue all the way down, then turn red and green to full and then blue, and colors are fine. It just takes the adjustment once the computer is booted to get back to normal.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakku*
> 
> first i set it up as an exhaust but i wasn't happy with the temps i now have it set up as an intake.
> 
> Note that my side mesh panel has 4 fans 2 on top exhaust and 2 on bottom intake, which will be part of the push/pull intake radiator on my GPU.
> 
> I currently have the G10 and a thermaltake 3.0 extreme that im setting up on the gpu, this weekend.


I first had my H100i set to exhaust and then to intake, and intake gets me better temps. I have been wanting to buy 2 more Noctua F12s for push/pull set up. I have been thinking lately about putting my EVGA 780 SC ACX under water but not sure if I want a CLC for just my GPU, or if i have enough room to run another rad.


----------



## MCFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakku*
> 
> just set up push/pull and dropped another 5C... so an overall of 25C drop from stock intel HS/Fan
> 
> full load i cant get it over 57C and maximum burn tests haven't gone over 77C. still figuring out best combo of fans for my whole case setup after i get my 2nd rad installed for gpu ill come back with hopefully even better numbers
> 
> this is with silenx fans on the h100 btw


Awesome! Thanks for the update


----------



## jakku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> I first had my H100i set to exhaust and then to intake, and intake gets me better temps. I have been wanting to buy 2 more Noctua F12s for push/pull set up. I have been thinking lately about putting my EVGA 780 SC ACX under water but not sure if I want a CLC for just my GPU, or if i have enough room to run another rad.


what case are you using to give you a comparison im using a 600T and i have already measured out room enough for a 2nd rad


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakku*
> 
> what case are you using to give you a comparison im using a 600T and i have already measured out room enough for a 2nd rad


I am using the Fractal Design R4, I have all the HDD cages removed and 2 Noctua A14 PWM fans on the front for intake. I could probably fit a rad up front but not sure if the current 140mm fans I have would be the best option, and then the H100i rad is mounted to the top of the case


----------



## Pis

Room Temperature = 34.7 C

Humidity = 58%

CPU Cooler = Corsair H105


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## pdasterly

i guess h90 and h75 dosent meet requirements for club


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakku*
> 
> I was also using the stock intel heatsink/fan on my 1155 socket i5-2500k i am comparing temps from overclocked at 4.1 on stock cooler to overclocked currently on 4.6 and running 20c cooler. the TIM on the intel heatsink was not very well applied i must say.


That's great. It's always nice when things work properly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakku*
> 
> what case are you using to give you a comparison im using a 600T and i have already measured out room enough for a 2nd rad


Have you joined the Graphite club? You might get a ton of great ideas there for your 600T.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> i guess h90 and h75 dosent meet requirements for club


All the Hydro series coolers meet the requirements.


----------



## jakku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> That's great. It's always nice when things work properly.
> Have you joined the Graphite club? You might get a ton of great ideas there for your 600T.


thank you. i have not i am still not sure how to do this whole club thing since i am still new to the forums. i just checked out the case thread though and would love to post up my pics but its not finished with cable management yet and it is shameful lol. hopefully end of this weekend ill get it all together


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakku*
> 
> thank you. i have not i am still not sure how to do this whole club thing since i am still new to the forums. i just checked out the case thread though and would love to post up my pics but its not finished with cable management yet and it is shameful lol. hopefully end of this weekend ill get it all together


^ No prob bud. Just ask in the thread to join when you post your picture. In the meantime, pick through the posts. You'll find a huge number of builds there.


----------



## jakku

happy to report 4.9ghz 1.44v under 70C stable on my i5-2500k with h100


----------



## Mergatroid

^ That's awesome. The i5 2500K is an excellent CPU for overclocking.


----------



## jediknight

Hello guys,

Is H105 fits in Cooler Master HAF X 942 case ? Anyone knows this ?

Thank you


----------



## lawrencendlw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jediknight*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> Is H105 fits in Cooler Master HAF X 942 case ? Anyone knows this ?
> 
> Thank you


It will fit fine in a Push/Pull setup even if you choose to go that route. I always suggest a Push/Pull whenever possible for maximum cooling. I hope that this helps. Good Luck with your H105


----------



## Beatwolf

Any news about when the new VGA liquid cooling unit will be out?


----------



## Seanay00

Has anyone here got a H70 mounting bracket to suit AMD? I live in Australia and willing to pay post. I'm chasing 2 if I can, got a couple ideas with apus I want to try out but lost/thrown out the amd gear.


----------



## lawrencendlw

I'll look around and see if I can find mine. It may be out in the shed lol.


----------



## Kittencake

Don't knock the cabling, I undid a lot of zip ties to put it in and redo them


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> I saved the LED to Blue in the link software, turned the computer off for a few minutes, and when I booted up the light was white. After a few minutes the white turned to a very light blue, not as dark as the blue was before the computer was turned off and back on. I can go into Link after the restart turn blue all the way down, then turn red and green to full and then blue, and colors are fine. It just takes the adjustment once the computer is booted to get back to normal.


Do you mind trying an older version of Link? *2.4.5110*. I'd like to find out if this behavior is version dependent. Just make sure to uninstall the current version and delete all the profiles that have been saved before installing 2.4 version.


----------



## lawrencendlw

Hey Joseph, how's it going? Long time no talk to. How have you been?


----------



## darkelixa

Does the corsair software work well with windows 8.1 yet or only windows 7 still, got my h80i comming tommorow so i need to know which os to install based on corsairs software


----------



## kolo7127

Any word on corsair making 240mm x 29mm radiators being made with the h75 h105 blocks? I'd like a 240mm radiator for my 250d that has the same block as my h75. Dont care for the link software or those square water blocks. The round asetek blocks are much better, but the h105 wont fit in the 250d with its stock fans.


----------



## savagepagan

Just snagged these for my H110 at amazon. Comes in 3 and 4-pin 2000/3000 rpm. http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-industrialPPC-140mm-2000RPM/dp/B00KFCRMSG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1403912316&sr=8-1&keywords=Noctua+NF-A14+industrialPPC-2000
The Noctua NF-f12 industrialPPC is available for you 120mm also in 2000/3000 rpm


----------



## Phenomanator53

Hey guys, need a bit of help here, the pump on my H75 is making a rather annoying buzz and hum, I've tried moving the radiator around but it's still making that annoying noise. Can anyone help me with this?

Thanks.


----------



## jakku

You can try moving the pump around with it running but ik if its a hard drive like noise certain models had issues that you can rma


----------



## Phenomanator53

Its more like a constant buzz/whine, and the pump is fed 12V and spins at 1500RPM
Does anyone else with Asetek units (round pump) have pump noise?


----------



## lawrencendlw

My H70 is fine and I've had it for over 2 years. But I've heard of a lot of people who have a broken fin inside of the pump and it makes a loud noise. I suggest RMA. Post on the Corsair websites forum. You will get help from one of the moderators. They're very helpful. Joseph posts on here frequently. Try to PM him on here.


----------



## Rockrz

Does anyone know if the Corsair Hydro Series H80i can be mounted on the top part of the new Thermaltake Core V71 Full-Tower?

I wasn't really wanting to go water, but after looking at all these gigantic fan setups, this makes more sense and seems to be the simple solution... and long as I don't have to flush the radiator like I do on my car









How many years do you think the H80i is good for as being maintenance free?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rockrz*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Corsair Hydro Series H80i can be mounted on the top part of the new Thermaltake Core V71 Full-Tower?
> 
> I wasn't really wanting to go water, but after looking at all these gigantic fan setups, this makes more sense and seems to be the simple solution... and long as I don't have to flush the radiator like I do on my car
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How many years do you think the H80i is good for as being maintenance free?


On the first page of this thread there is a link to the hydro series case compatibility thread. Someone there might be able to answer your question. As for the maintenance free aspect of the H80, it's going to be at least five years since that's how long the warranty is, and likely longer. You can keep using it until you notice a change in temps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> Any news about when the new VGA liquid cooling unit will be out?


Which cooler is that? I have seen one that's been available for a few years, but it's a little expensive.

This one looks awesome, and if I had only one video card I would be using this cooler.

This one also looks good.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> [...]
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> Any news about when the new VGA liquid cooling unit will be out?
> 
> 
> 
> Which cooler is that? I have seen one that's been available for a few years, but it's a little expensive.
> 
> This one looks awesome, and if I had only one video card I would be using this cooler.
> 
> This one also looks good.
Click to expand...

I assume he's talking about the Corsair HG10, a bracket similar to the NZXT Kraken G10 that lets you use an AIO CPU cooler on your GPU. According to several reviews the first models should have been released sometime in June, but I'm not sure any are for sale anywhere yet.


----------



## Kittencake

no they come on sale in august ..







which makes me a sad kitty that I have to wait but I'm definitely gonna get one


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kittencake*
> 
> no they come on sale in august ..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> which makes me a sad kitty that I have to wait but I'm definitely gonna get one


Where did you see August at?

I was just going by ...

http://www.anandtech.com/show/8105/corsair-presents-the-hydro-series-hg10-liquid-gpu-cooling-bracket
Quote:


> The first versions (A1 Edition) will be available this June for $39.99.


http://www.guru3d.com/news_story/corsair_hydro_series_hg10_unleashes_your_gpus_hidden_performance.html
Quote:


> The HG10 is priced at $39.99 and available in several editions designed for specific AMD and NVIDIA graphics cards layouts. The first available edition - due in June - supports the AMD 290x/290 reference cards. Future versions for NVIDIA and other AMD cards arrive later this year.


http://wccftech.com/corsair-unveils-hydro-series-hg10-lowers-amd-radeon-r9-290x-temperature-17/
Quote:


> "Posted 4 weeks ago"
> The first edition of the Hydro Series HG10 will be available in this month.


----------



## Seanay00

No H70 owners want to sell their AMD mounting bracket?


----------



## pdasterly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanay00*
> 
> No H70 owners want to sell their AMD mounting bracket?


I have a few laying around, assuming h90 and h75 uses same mounting bracket


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I assume he's talking about the Corsair HG10, a bracket similar to the NZXT Kraken G10 that lets you use an AIO CPU cooler on your GPU. According to several reviews the first models should have been released sometime in June, but I'm not sure any are for sale anywhere yet.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks interesting. I don't know about keeping those stock fans though.


----------



## Kittencake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Where did you see August at?
> 
> I was just going by ...
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/8105/corsair-presents-the-hydro-series-hg10-liquid-gpu-cooling-bracket
> http://www.guru3d.com/news_story/corsair_hydro_series_hg10_unleashes_your_gpus_hidden_performance.html
> http://wccftech.com/corsair-unveils-hydro-series-hg10-lowers-amd-radeon-r9-290x-temperature-17/


it was from corsair George in the news feed of the hg10 i'll have to find it


----------



## Seanay00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdasterly*
> 
> I have a few laying around, assuming h90 and h75 uses same mounting bracket


Yea h75 will work a treat!







I'll send u a pm


----------



## MCFC

Guys is it true the h110 won't fit without modding in a phantom 820? Want to mount the rad to the top of the case


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> Guys is it true the h110 won't fit without modding in a phantom 820? Want to mount the rad to the top of the case


overclock3d's Tiny Tim Logan says the fan spacings on the Phantom 820 won't align up with the H110.
http://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=51502

Sounds like it could be made to work though.


----------



## MCFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> overclock3d's Tiny Tim Logan says the fan spacings on the Phantom 820 won't align up with the H110.
> http://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=51502
> 
> Sounds like it could be made to work though.


Thanks guess I'll have to go with the h105 or h100i then


----------



## Rockrz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> On the first page of this thread there is a link to the hydro series case compatibility thread.


the new Thermaltake Core V71 Full-Tower wasn't listed... probably because it's so new


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rockrz*
> 
> the new Thermaltake Core V71 Full-Tower wasn't listed... probably because it's so new


Maybe give it a try then and you can be the first to post on the compatibility.

I did find this. It says there is a full 60mm up top for a rad and fan, plus "a ton of room under the top panel as well". It sounds to me like you could fit a rad and a fan up top, with a second fan for push/pull "under the top panel". Unfortunately it looks like the H80 is 38mm thick, plus 25mm for a fan gives you 63mm so it could be a problem. However, I think a 240mm rad, like the H100, would work fine since the rad is only 27mm thick.

Nice looking case. Good choice.


----------



## A L I E N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> Just snagged these for my H110 at amazon. Comes in 3 and 4-pin 2000/3000 rpm. http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-industrialPPC-140mm-2000RPM/dp/B00KFCRMSG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1403912316&sr=8-1&keywords=Noctua+NF-A14+industrialPPC-2000
> The Noctua NF-f12 industrialPPC is available for you 120mm also in 2000/3000 rpm


How are you liking your Noctua's, have you had a chance to install them on your H110? I have the same cooler and was considering Noctua's so I'm curious as to your results.


----------



## amateurbuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Does the corsair software work well with windows 8.1 yet or only windows 7 still, got my h80i comming tommorow so i need to know which os to install based on corsairs software


I just put a build together with a H100i, Windows 8.1. Everything seems ok.


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A L I E N*
> 
> How are you liking your Noctua's, have you had a chance to install them on your H110? I have the same cooler and was considering Noctua's so I'm curious as to your results.


I have not received them yet.


----------



## A L I E N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> I have not received them yet.


Aww, I thought you had them already cool. Thanks


----------



## MCFC

Just bought an h100i

can't wait to put it on my 4790k


----------



## ggp759

Hi. Stupid question but i cant find the answer. Which one is the newest and fully compatible with z97 1150? H100i h105 or h110? Thanks


----------



## Jerold702

both i belive. i have the h105, cannot try it untill the formula vii come out.


----------



## jakku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ggp759*
> 
> Hi. Stupid question but i cant find the answer. Which one is the newest and fully compatible with z97 1150? H100i h105 or h110? Thanks


110 and 105 came out a little after h100i

remember Dual 140mm on the h110, Dual120mm on h100 and h105 so spacing will vary


----------



## mAs81

I believe that the H105 is the newest of the bunch but any Corsair AIO that supports socket 1150 will fit just perfectly


----------



## roy5000x2

Just began an RMA for my H100i due to it making an absolutely horrible grinding noise on start up when the pump runs from 600-900 rpm. Hoping that this next one doesn't sound like death! Throwing it on top of an Intel 4790K.


----------



## MCFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roy5000x2*
> 
> Just began an RMA for my H100i due to it making an absolutely horrible grinding noise on start up when the pump runs from 600-900 rpm. Hoping that this next one doesn't sound like death! Throwing it on top of an Intel 4790K.


Which thermal paste are you going to be using


----------



## roy5000x2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> Which thermal paste are you going to be using


Honestly, just going to stick with the stuff that comes on the block for now. I'll monitor the temps for a few weeks or so. If I don't like them I have some noctua thermal paste I can apply.


----------



## sigilens

I also did a rma request.but also bought 2 new Noctua fans. If they don't answer in 3 days ,use the chat. I received my new fans in 7 days. Now I need to find time to put them in.


----------



## NKrader

found out the hard way that h80i does not fit evga x58 sli le board.


----------



## jakku

computer comming apart. this weekend. RMA'ing both AIO coolers. excited to get the h100i upgrade form my h100 rma. other aio has a fault board thats not connecting to the fan software right. Both of these companies, thermaltake and corsair, i must say are amazing customer service. i dont have my invoices anymore and they accepted the RMAs due to the circumstances A+ to them









will also take this time to lap my cpu









either way once i get it back up im hoping to see some maybe lower temps and higher clocks!


----------



## WolfFangs1381

I have had to RMA a couple things to Thermaltake myself. Their customer service is really great. They are also pretty darn quick sending back a new product. Great company for sure.

Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roy5000x2*
> 
> Honestly, just going to stick with the stuff that comes on the block for now. I'll monitor the temps for a few weeks or so. If I don't like them I have some noctua thermal paste I can apply.


The Dow Corning TIM that comes pre-applied to the Corsair coolers is top notch stuff.


----------



## pdasterly

can i post this here?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0HZMGA?t=slicinc-20&tag=slicinc-20&ascsubtag=f3f271a49aca4fc29d5d7e543f106564


----------



## sigilens

I have my H100i as a push pull out take in the front of my Fractal Design define r4 with 2 sp120l and 2 Noctua nf-f12.
My idle temp is now 2 degrees more then it was when I had the h100i in the top of my case as only a out take with the 2 standard fans. Is this due to being it an out take or because of the use of different fans


----------



## jellybeans69

Decided to get H110 for my 3970x we'll see how it goes


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sigilens*
> 
> I have my H100i as a push pull out take in the front of my Fractal Design define r4 with 2 sp120l and 2 Noctua nf-f12.
> My idle temp is now 2 degrees more then it was when I had the h100i in the top of my case as only a out take with the 2 standard fans. Is this due to being it an out take or because of the use of different fans


Try to set up your fans as intake, to pull cooler air though the rad. Also if you are going to use 2 different types of fans I would stack the like ones on the rad together so they work better together.


----------



## jakku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sigilens*
> 
> I have my H100i as a push pull out take in the front of my Fractal Design define r4 with 2 sp120l and 2 Noctua nf-f12.
> My idle temp is now 2 degrees more then it was when I had the h100i in the top of my case as only a out take with the 2 standard fans. Is this due to being it an out take or because of the use of different fans


may i ask why you chose an outtake at the front of your case? also intake on radiators will always run cooler then exhaust


----------



## sigilens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakku*
> 
> may i ask why you chose an outtake at the front of your case? also intake on radiators will always run cooler then exhaust


Maybe by mistake







i am going to make it an intake and buy two new Noctua's


----------



## MCFC

Going to be building my first rig next week and wanted to ask. Should I setup my h100i with noctua nf-f12's as intake or exhaust? Also I think push pull is the best setup right?


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> Going to be building my first rig next week and wanted to ask. Should I setup my h100i with noctua nf-f12's as intake or exhaust? Also I think push pull is the best setup right?


intake will give you the best temps for your CPU, and I have read that push/pull doesnt have much affect on the h100i because the rad is thin. But I dont think it would hurt setting it up, if you just go with 2 F12s set them us as push


----------



## sigilens

I have my 2 new Noctua's.Going to install them later on as intake.hope to see beter temps


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sigilens*
> 
> I have my 2 new Noctua's.Going to install them later on as intake.hope to see beter temps


Let us know what kind of temps you get!


----------



## sigilens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Let us know what kind of temps you get!


I did the switch, rear and back fans exhaust all at 800 rpm.H100i push-pull intake.
29/30 degrees idle and after half hour NFS racing 48 degrees on link quiet mode.
i7 [email protected] processor.
It is a 10 degrees difference with yesterday's temps and a 7 degrees difference with only 2 stock fans as push configuration.
Ohh btw im broke now


----------



## MCFC

lol looks nice man, where did you buy the noctua fans from? I'm from holland too


----------



## sigilens

Thanks, I bought them at Paradigit. €19.99.


----------



## MCFC

Pretty good price, we have that store here as well in Breda. Will check it out thanks


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sigilens*
> 
> I did the switch, rear and back fans exhaust all at 800 rpm.H100i push-pull intake.
> 29/30 degrees idle and after half hour NFS racing 48 degrees on link quiet mode.
> i7 [email protected] processor.
> It is a 10 degrees difference with yesterday's temps and a 7 degrees difference with only 2 stock fans as push configuration.
> Ohh btw im broke now


That's awesome so the push/pull with the F12s really lowered your temps, thats good to know ive been thinking of going p/p with my h100i and 2 more f12s


----------



## darkelixa

I have push pull with my h80i and noctua cooler, looks sexy and does have good temps, 45 degrees max with an i5 4670k


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sigilens*
> 
> I did the switch, rear and back fans exhaust all at 800 rpm.H100i push-pull intake.
> 29/30 degrees idle and after half hour NFS racing 48 degrees on link quiet mode.
> i7 [email protected] processor.
> It is a 10 degrees difference with yesterday's temps and a 7 degrees difference with only 2 stock fans as push configuration.
> Ohh btw im broke now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


WOW ... Congrats! ... I've been following this thread for over 2 years and have never seen such a drastic improvement in temps going to a push/pull setup. The H100/H100i's cold plate and thin radiator can only transfer so much heat and additional fans rarely improve temps more than 2c-4c at most, depending on the testing parameters within a well ventilated "proper" case setup. Would have been nice to see your complete testing methodology with screenshots ... see my sig


----------



## sigilens

Maybe i exaggerated a bit to much. I will do some deasent measurements when the temps outside are a little bit less hot. I have a room temperature of 32 atm, so I can't do a deasent test now.


----------



## mitchcook420

Finally joining this club, recently purchased a H105 that is yet to be installed


----------



## jellybeans69

H110 cooling i7-3970x


----------



## Gabkicks

i got a corsair h100i for my 4790k. would Prolimatech PRO-PK3 be a good choice for a thermal compound? I was just gonna go with ic diamond 7 but i was wondering about this one


----------



## Rockrz

I heard some of these already have the thermal compound on them... is this true?


----------



## Gabkicks

they do normally but i bought this one used 0_0


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Prolimatech PRO-PK3 is a good TIM.

GeLid GC-Extreme (also sold as Phobya HeGrease) is pretty much the best standard TIM sold these days, short of exotic products like Coollaberatory Ultra or Indigo Extreme.


----------



## mitchcook420

I have been using PK1 with great results


----------



## MCFC

Is there a significant difference in running h100i in push/pull or push or pull setup?


----------



## jellybeans69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> Is there a significant difference in running h100i in push/pull or push or pull setup?


It really depends on what you consider "significant"
If you have to choose push or pull - choose push to take in fresh air outside case
Push pull might give another extra boost in performance


----------



## Gabkicks

since i have the radiator attatched to the rear fans of my case, i ahve been using exhaust push/pull


----------



## Vici0us

H105 here.


----------



## bigkahuna360

So I just had a crazy idea. How well would the pump do if you replaced the radiator with a NexXxos Monsta 240/360mm?


----------



## MCFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellybeans69*
> 
> It really depends on what you consider "significant"
> If you have to choose push or pull - choose push to take in fresh air outside case
> Push pull might give another extra boost in performance


i plan on mounting it on the top, is it okay by making it intake then?
because heat rises and all that

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabkicks*
> 
> since i have the radiator attatched to the rear fans of my case, i ahve been using exhaust push/pull


How are the temps?


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> i plan on mounting it on the top, is it okay by making it intake then?
> because heat rises and all that


This is the explination I got for hot air rises in a case....

AAAAAARGH hot air rises is a myth !!!

actually it is not, ask the brothers Montgolfier... really, read up on them; it will bring you into hot air balloons and how much hot air you really need for it to become important.

Anyways for the hot air rises to be important in a PC following conditions need to be true:
-it needs to be a fanless PC, and all cooling is done by convection.. THEN hot air rises is very important
OR
-it needs to be such a bad designed case that you have pockets of stagnant hot air AND have things inthere that dont like the heat

For example: assume that you've got a hot pocket in the OD bays. If you dont have any OD or other drives inthere... who cares?
If you would have hot pockets around the VRMs or RAM, that would not be good.

However, in reality a bumblebee passing by displaces more air as the "hot" air that rises by natural convection. So, can you image how much air is displaced by a (puny) 30 CFM fan?
That is 30 Cubic Feet Every Minute.. that is a LOT of air. Have one 30 CFM at the front bottom and one at the top back of the case and "hot air rises" is out of the equation.

Anyways, yes, set the H100 to intake... Makes ure the rear exhaust is no restricted in any way, its actaully a good idea to have the rear exhaust running a bit faster or have a higher CFM fan for rear exhaust.

But before you do, install CPU-ID HWMonitor and look at your temps. Then change the H100 to intake and check your temps again with HWMonitor. You'l find that your VRMs might run a few degrees higher, but the CPU will be cooler.

you CAN take it a step further, see: http://www.overclock.net/t/666445/post-your-ghetto-rigging-shenanigans/3500_100#post_22393142


----------



## BradleyW

I agree. The hot air rises crap does not tend to apply, since PC's use active fans which constantly push or pull air, leaving no room for rising heat.


----------



## darkelixa

Do you have to clean vout the h80i often? So far in my month of owning I cant see any dust on mine at all, probably thanks to the silverstone tj08e case, the cases air flow is top notch


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> Is there a significant difference in running h100i in push/pull or push or pull setup?


Push vs pull is almost no significant difference (less than 1c).
Push/Pull vs push or pull you might get 1-3c. In rare cases you might get more depending on the situation, but if you take an H100, out of the case, and test it with push, pull and push/pull, you'll get very little difference. That has been shown in the thread multiple times.
Same goes with exhaust vs intake (again, depending on circumstances). For example, if I swap my top H100 fans to intake, I only see between one and two degrees difference. However, someone with a rad positioned close to a video card might see a larger difference when swapping between intake and exhaust. The best thing to do is think about the airflow in your case. However you want it, top to bottom, or bottom to top, front to back or back to front, try and make all the fans in your case assist the flow and not fight against it.
Many cases are front to back, bottom to top. That seems pretty mainstream. So, if you are using that airflow direction, you wouldn't want your front, bottom fan(s) exhausting (for example).
There are actually a few different ways you can make the airflow in a case depending on the equipment in the case (rads, video cards, etc.)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Back when I had an H100 and later with an H110 I definitely saw better than a 1C difference in temps when I went with push-pull. It wasn't a staggering difference, but several degrees at the same fan speeds or rather similar temps at lower / quieter fan speeds was more the norm, especially when I was running those buzzsaw-sounding Corsair fans. Being able to dial them back a few hundred rpms made a huge difference in the noise they made.

Now that I run custom waterloops with thicker rads the difference with push pull is significant. To quote Martin of MartinsLiquidLabs:

"_About the only generalization is that push/pull is still your best bet if cost is not a problem and that will hold true for all radiators_" and "_There is a pressure benefit to doubling up on fans_ _and this translates to about a 20-30% performance gain_" & "_I would always recommend a push/pull configuration for two fans_"


----------



## Mergatroid

^Yeah, on thicker rads push/pull can make a difference.
As for the H100, Corsair did a test on a bench and found about a 1c difference. Other people in this thread have posted their results, and again it was about 1c. As I said though, circumstances can differ depending on other things such as fans used, type of case, installed components, airflow direction and such. Any of these could effect the results when changing the pressure and/or airflow through a case by changing from one to two, or two to four fans.

Lol, it's so funny to Google "Corsair George H100 push pull experiment" and two of the images Google pulls up are of my computer.

Oh well, I can't seem to find the link I thought I had to the experiment Corsair did on the H100 comparing push or pull to push/pull. If anyone else has it perhaps they will post it.

I had actually modded my Graphite 600T for push/pull exhaust when I first got it, and I found that it made little difference. Now I'm back to just using push/exhaust.

I can see your point though, where every little bit of reduced RPM helps the noise level.


----------



## MCFC

Guys I just installed my new h100i with noctua nf-f12 fans on my also new 4790k processor. Realtemp shows the idle temps at stock to be *37c*
At full load with prime 95 it shot all the way up to *96c*

Any tips on what I should check? I haven't even started overclocking yet.. I have 1 200mm intake fan in the front and one 140mm exhaust fan at the back and 2x 200mm exhaust fans at the top.


----------



## WiSK

37C idle usually means the cooling plate isn't making good contact with the CPU. Unmount it and take a photo of the TIM and the area on the motherboard surrounding the CPU, perhaps we can help better by seeing it


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> ^Yeah, on thicker rads push/pull can make a difference.
> As for the H100, Corsair did a test on a bench and found about a 1c difference. Other people in this thread have posted their results, and again it was about 1c. As I said though, circumstances can differ depending on other things such as fans used, type of case, installed components, airflow direction and such. Any of these could effect the results when changing the pressure and/or airflow through a case by changing from one to two, or two to four fans.
> 
> Lol, it's so funny to Google "Corsair George H100 push pull experiment" and two of the images Google pulls up are of my computer.
> 
> Oh well, I can't seem to find the link I thought I had to the experiment Corsair did on the H100 comparing push or pull to push/pull. If anyone else has it perhaps they will post it.
> 
> I had actually modded my Graphite 600T for push/pull exhaust when I first got it, and I found that it made little difference. Now I'm back to just using push/exhaust.
> 
> I can see your point though, where every little bit of reduced RPM helps the noise level.


Hey Merg nice concise, accurate answer as usual +R ... this push/pull thing seems to come up every 4-6mos and most long time users here would validate your comments









I also agree with Unicorn that "potentially" push/pull could reduce noise with lower fan speeds (similar performance) but that depends a lot on the setup, type of fans (rpm?), overclock etc etc ...

I think the link you're looking for ... Corsair rep "Grey Beard" ... http://www.corsair.com/us/blog/unde...ies-h80-and-h100-cooling-performance-profiles ... has gone dark









As far as the thin 27mm H100/H100i rads go, OCN user stren posted some pertinent info in his review *[HERE]*









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> Guys I just installed my new h100i with noctua nf-f12 fans on my also new 4790k processor. Realtemp shows the idle temps at stock to be *37c*
> At full load with prime 95 it shot all the way up to *96c*
> 
> Any tips on what I should check? I haven't even started overclocking yet.. I have 1 200mm intake fan in the front and one 140mm exhaust fan at the back and 2x 200mm exhaust fans at the top.


Quick answer without more info (see sig) ... is definitely a remount, looks like bad contact, when you pull the block off carefully inspect the TIM for contact and even distribution ... you may also try rotating the block 90degrees to clear unseen motherboard components, or awkward hose tension/bending (puts uneven pressure on the block) ... worked for many in the past depending on their mobo manufacture.


----------



## MCFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> 37C idle usually means the cooling plate isn't making good contact with the CPU. Unmount it and take a photo of the TIM and the area on the motherboard surrounding the CPU, perhaps we can help better by seeing it


Thanks for the help but I already disassembled everything and am going to return the h100i. Thinking of buying the h105 but I'm not sure if it's better than this one and if it even fits into the phantom 820


----------



## roy5000x2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> Guys I just installed my new h100i with noctua nf-f12 fans on my also new 4790k processor. Realtemp shows the idle temps at stock to be *37c*
> At full load with prime 95 it shot all the way up to *96c*
> 
> Any tips on what I should check? I haven't even started overclocking yet.. I have 1 200mm intake fan in the front and one 140mm exhaust fan at the back and 2x 200mm exhaust fans at the top.


How interesting. I'm got roughly the same idle temps with both my defective H100i and the replacement H100i. Same fans, same processor, same stock clock speed.
Granted a quick 15 minute run of Prime95 27.9 I saw rare spikes to 77C

Guess it's one of those things I'll sit down and figure out when I've got some spare time. I'm sure I'm messing something up when putting the block on the cpu or something with the back plate


----------



## MCFC

Why did you get a replacement?


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Im running an ITX system with AMD A8 5800k inside a Rosewill U2 case with asrock mobo.
Trying to decide if i should get a H60 or H75.. Thoughts?


----------



## roy5000x2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> Why did you get a replacement?


First one was making a grinding noise when the computer booted/came back from sleep. The pump would sit at 600-900 rpm then finally go to 2400 rpm after a minute, so I got a replacement.

Think I found my issue though. One of the corners of my mounting bracket on the back of the board has a few mm travel in it, so I'm probably not getting great contact on that corner of the cpu. I'll have to fix it when I pull my PSU out to RMA it


----------



## Gabkicks

My h100i only came with 2 thumb screws. :/ I contacted corsair a week ago and haven't gotten a reply yet.


----------



## giygas

Would an AOI cooler like one of Corsair's be worth it if I don't plan on overclocking and the heaviest loads I put on my pc are just games? Or should I just stick with a simpler air cooler.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giygas*
> 
> Would an AOI cooler like one of Corsair's be worth it if I don't plan on overclocking and the heaviest loads I put on my pc are just games? Or should I just stick with a simpler air cooler.


Save your money and stick with a simple air cooler


----------



## Kittencake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giygas*
> 
> Would an AOI cooler like one of Corsair's be worth it if I don't plan on overclocking and the heaviest loads I put on my pc are just games? Or should I just stick with a simpler air cooler.


I would, i know its saved my skin for the summer heat, with my current board any over clock would cause my system to blue screen i'm fairly sure its the board its self so I'm stuck at stock, I'd say go for it you can always oc later and it will be there for you when you do


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabkicks*
> 
> My h100i only came with 2 thumb screws. :/ I contacted corsair a week ago and haven't gotten a reply yet.


That's odd. Did you get it as a brand new unit? Sorry for the no reply, our Tech Support guys are pretty slammed at the moment. PM me your ticket # and I'll look into it.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Do you mind trying an older version of Link? *2.4.5110*. I'd like to find out if this behavior is version dependent. Just make sure to uninstall the current version and delete all the profiles that have been saved before installing 2.4 version.


Finally had a chance to do this and still no luck, with the LEDs keeping the saved color after shutdown and then being booted back up


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giygas*
> 
> Would an AOI cooler like one of Corsair's be worth it if I don't plan on overclocking and the heaviest loads I put on my pc are just games? Or should I just stick with a simpler air cooler.


I have an old computer case here that had a core 2 duo running stock, and I had installed an H50 in it just for the heck of it. It was on sale at a local store a few years back so I grabbed it. It's been working just fine up until now, running nice and cool. Just this last spring I finally upgraded that computer to an i5 2500k, and did a minor overclock on it to 4GHz from 3.3GHz. That cooler is handling it like a champ.

If you can get a good deal on an AIO cooler, I say go for it. You never know if you might like to try an overclock in the future, and even if you don't it will run your cpu quite cool and should reduce your system noise depending on the cooler you get and/or how you connect the fan. Of course, it all depends on what it's worth to you. I also use an AIO water cooler because it looks awesome, and I don't like having big heavy air coolers clamped to my CPU. Of course, if you're not overclocking at all, you could just use a stock cooler, which will basically come with your CPU free. You could get _up to_ a 20c drop in load temps over a stock cooler by using a higher-end cooler whether it's an air cooler or an aio water cooler.

So really it depends on what you want inside your case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlxxxsracer*
> 
> Im running an ITX system with AMD A8 5800k inside a Rosewill U2 case with asrock mobo.
> Trying to decide if i should get a H60 or H75.. Thoughts?


I haven't tried the H75, but the H60 is not a bad cooler. I installed on is a buddy's case and he loves it. However, judging from on-line comparisons, if I were to purchase one of the two now I think I would get the H75. It seems to be a better performer by a few degrees. Here's a good review. I think the H75 looks pretty sexy too....


----------



## mitchcook420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabkicks*
> 
> My h100i only came with 2 thumb screws. :/ I contacted corsair a week ago and haven't gotten a reply yet.


Did you contact the place you bought it from for a return?


----------



## Stefy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mitchcook420*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabkicks*
> 
> My h100i only came with 2 thumb screws. :/ I contacted corsair a week ago and haven't gotten a reply yet.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you contact the place you bought it from for a return?
Click to expand...

I never understood why people are contacting the manufacturer instead of the retailer they bought the product from. If you want long processing times sure go ahead lol, apart from that it makes no sense.

Anyway guys, I was wonder the best way of mounting my H100i (tubes).

Some people mount it like this:


And some like this:


I must say the latter doesn't look like a good idea, but what do I know.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stefy*
> 
> I never understood why people are contacting the manufacturer instead of the retailer they bought the product from. If you want long processing times sure go ahead lol, apart from that it makes no sense.
> 
> Anyway guys, I was wonder the best way of mounting my H100i (tubes).
> 
> Some people mount it like this:
> 
> 
> And some like this:
> 
> 
> I must say the latter doesn't look like a good idea, but what do I know.


I have mine mounted like the second picture, I have not had any problems at all with that type of mounting


----------



## jellybeans69

If there are no hdd cages other cables interfiering too much second one seems nicer/better way imo.


----------



## rolldog

I mounted mine 2 days ago in my Antec Twelve Hundred V3 case, which I was told wouldn't fit. The case came with 2 - 120mm exhaust fans on the back of the case. I have the radiator mounted there on the inside. It's mounted as case, 2 - 120mm fans, rad, 2 more 120mm fans. I also changed the airflow from an exhaust to an intake and then changed the fans on the front of the case from intake to exhaust. Because of the 200mm fan mounted on top of the case, I couldn't mount it there.


----------



## Stefy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellybeans69*
> 
> If there are no hdd cages other cables interfiering too much second one seems nicer/better way imo.


Went with it. Fan was blocking to properly mount it the other way. Thanks guys.


----------



## MCFC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stefy*
> 
> Went with it. Fan was blocking to properly mount it the other way. Thanks guys.


How are the temps?


----------



## Stefy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stefy*
> 
> Went with it. Fan was blocking to properly mount it the other way. Thanks guys.
> 
> 
> 
> How are the temps?
Click to expand...

Pretty terrible. Maxing out at 80 in BF4.

I've tried everything to improve temps in this case, but it's just not working. It's ridiculous that it''s 15-20C hotter than my Lanboy Air.


----------



## MCFC

Yeah I just had an h100i that was giving me temps of 96c at stock...returned it though and got a replacement. Have to wait until I can try it again as my case is not yet delivered


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I mounted mine 2 days ago in my Antec Twelve Hundred V3 case, which I was told wouldn't fit. The case came with 2 - 120mm exhaust fans on the back of the case. I have the radiator mounted there on the inside. It's mounted as case, 2 - 120mm fans, rad, 2 more 120mm fans. I also changed the airflow from an exhaust to an intake and then changed the fans on the front of the case from intake to exhaust. Because of the 200mm fan mounted on top of the case, I couldn't mount it there.


I'd like to see that. Can you take a picture for us?


----------



## rolldog

@Mergatroid

Here you go. Of course, this is a side pic, but I have both 120mm fans connected to one of fan connections on the CPU cooler and the other 2 fans connected to the other spot on the CPU cooler. I haven't tested it yet because I ordered all new sleeved cables from moddiy.com, but they came in today. Now it's time to replace all my cables and then I'll be able to see how it works.


----------



## rolldog

Forgot to attach the pic. Everyone said that mounting a Corsair H100i in an Antec Twelve Hundred V3 case was impossible. This is proof that it's not. It's setup as a push/pull system, but I didn't use the pre-drilled holes on the top of the case, which Antec said was made to easily install a 200mm rad. First of all, a 200mm rad isn't big enough, and second, they should have drilled holes for 2 of them, if they intended for people to use a 200mm rad. Even a guy who I spoke with at FrozenCPU said it couldn't be done, but I wish I would have spoke with him before ordering all my components for this new build because he told me that the CaseLabs cases were the best, and easiest to work with so now I find myself trying to make the best out of this case. I've thought about ordering a new case and switching everything over, but at this point, what would I do with this Antec?


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stefy*
> 
> Pretty terrible. Maxing out at 80 in BF4.
> 
> I've tried everything to improve temps in this case, but it's just not working. It's ridiculous that it''s 15-20C hotter than my Lanboy Air.


I dont see how your temps are sooo high, whenever Im playing BF4 or anything for that matter my cpu never goes over 60c. You should maybe try to remount the block to your cpu and make sure its on there correctly. How do you have your fans set up on the rad?


----------



## nick779

Hi guys, I had an H60 but needed more overclocking headroom as my 4.4ghz 4670k was easily hitting 85c+ with small FFTs in prime, so I bought an H105.

So far so good 4.5ghz topping out at around 80c with small FFTs but I think thats a CPU to spreader problem and not the cooler

Only bad thing is that mine was shipped with what looks to be like regular sp120s, and not the 2700rpm SP120Ls (mine sit at 2375rpm at 100%)

So throughout the past week ive waited for Corsair to respond to my ticket about my fans and have heard absolutely nothing, which apparently according to their forums isnt all that uncommon. So im getting slightly paranoid about leaks or something catastrophically damaging my pc and getting screwed by corsair.

Have any of you have really bad experiences with their service or had leaky coolers?

Also if anyone wants the SP120s shoot me a PM, I have deltas coming in so I dont even need them.


----------



## WolfFangs1381

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I've thought about ordering a new case and switching everything over, but at this point, what would I do with this Antec?


You could always sell it and get some money back out of it. That's what I would do.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nick779*
> 
> Only bad thing is that mine was shipped with what looks to be like regular sp120s, and not the 2700rpm SP120Ls (mine sit at 2375rpm at 100%)
> 
> So throughout the past week ive waited for Corsair to respond to my ticket about my fans and have heard absolutely nothing, which apparently according to their forums isnt all that uncommon. So im getting slightly paranoid about leaks or something catastrophically damaging my pc and getting screwed by corsair.


Shoot Corsair Joseph a pm here and I'm sure he will help you out. I recently read in this thread I believe that Corsair has been swamped in their customer service department. As for concern about catastrophic damage from AIO coolers by Corsair,I again believe I read in this thread that Corsair will replace your components if damaged by one of their AIO coolers. I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure that's what I read. Correct me if I'm wrong anyone.

Wolf_Fangs1381


----------



## jellybeans69

Anyone know exact measurements for screws used to with h110 (14cm fans) seems like i lost one pack that came with it =[


----------



## nick779

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFangs1381*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I've thought about ordering a new case and switching everything over, but at this point, what would I do with this Antec?
> 
> 
> 
> You could always sell it and get some money back out of it. That's what I would do.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nick779*
> 
> Only bad thing is that mine was shipped with what looks to be like regular sp120s, and not the 2700rpm SP120Ls (mine sit at 2375rpm at 100%)
> 
> So throughout the past week ive waited for Corsair to respond to my ticket about my fans and have heard absolutely nothing, which apparently according to their forums isnt all that uncommon. So im getting slightly paranoid about leaks or something catastrophically damaging my pc and getting screwed by corsair.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Shoot Corsair Joseph a pm here and I'm sure he will help you out. I recently read in this thread I believe that Corsair has been swamped in their customer service department. As for concern about catastrophic damage from AIO coolers by Corsair,I again believe I read in this thread that Corsair will replace your components if damaged by one of their AIO coolers. I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure that's what I read. Correct me if I'm wrong anyone.
> 
> Wolf_Fangs1381
Click to expand...

I heard they will too, but after reading a story about a guy waiting over 5 months for a power supply I don't exactly want to have to deal with that kind of incompetence.


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellybeans69*
> 
> Anyone know exact measurements for screws used to with h110 (14cm fans) seems like i lost one pack that came with it =[


I believe you need 6-32 screws that are 30mm/1.2 inches
Or you could buy them directly from Corsair you know...
screw-kit


----------



## Stefy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stefy*
> 
> Pretty terrible. Maxing out at 80 in BF4.
> 
> I've tried everything to improve temps in this case, but it's just not working. It's ridiculous that it''s 15-20C hotter than my Lanboy Air.
> 
> 
> 
> I dont see how your temps are sooo high, whenever Im playing BF4 or anything for that matter my cpu never goes over 60c. You should maybe try to remount the block to your cpu and make sure its on there correctly. How do you have your fans set up on the rad?
Click to expand...

It's because I have 2 Cards dumping heat into the case, and considering it's a pretty hot case to begin with, then yeah. It's seated properly. Noticed my CPU's stock voltage was at 1.2 lowered it to 1.035 which dropped temps by ~10C. Should be okay for now.


----------



## nick779

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Forgot to attach the pic. Everyone said that mounting a Corsair H100i in an Antec Twelve Hundred V3 case was impossible. This is proof that it's not. It's setup as a push/pull system, but I didn't use the pre-drilled holes on the top of the case, which Antec said was made to easily install a 200mm rad. First of all, a 200mm rad isn't big enough, and second, they should have drilled holes for 2 of them, if they intended for people to use a 200mm rad. Even a guy who I spoke with at FrozenCPU said it couldn't be done, but I wish I would have spoke with him before ordering all my components for this new build because he told me that the CaseLabs cases were the best, and easiest to work with so now I find myself trying to make the best out of this case. I've thought about ordering a new case and switching everything over, but at this point, what would I do with this Antec?


Thay said a H105 wouldnt work with a 300r too...










I love my mounting, I made it work lol It might not be as clean and elegant, but it works.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Forgot to attach the pic. Everyone said that mounting a Corsair H100i in an Antec Twelve Hundred V3 case was impossible. This is proof that it's not. It's setup as a push/pull system, but I didn't use the pre-drilled holes on the top of the case, which Antec said was made to easily install a 200mm rad. First of all, a 200mm rad isn't big enough, and second, they should have drilled holes for 2 of them, if they intended for people to use a 200mm rad. Even a guy who I spoke with at FrozenCPU said it couldn't be done, but I wish I would have spoke with him before ordering all my components for this new build because he told me that the CaseLabs cases were the best, and easiest to work with so now I find myself trying to make the best out of this case. I've thought about ordering a new case and switching everything over, but at this point, what would I do with this Antec?


Good job man. Looks like a tight fit. give us a shot back a bit if you can, so we can see the entire interior. Looks like a great mounting job to me.


----------



## rolldog

Does anyone have a favorite fan, 120mm, that has the highest CFM than others? I'don't like to change out all my fans with more powerful fans, also ones with a blue LED. I'm assuming whatever fans I have installed in my case will also work on the H100i. The chassis fans on the case are 3 pin, but I can still connect them to the 4 pin connections on my MB. Is there any advantage when I buy new fans to buy 4 pin fans instead of the 3 pin fans currently installed? And what make and model of fan is going to give me the most airflow? My case also has a 200mm fan on top of the case that maxes out around 600-700 RPMs. Is there any way to increase that? The fans came with manual speed controls, which are still connected to the fans, but are set on high so I can control the speeds through the software instead. Do you think if I just cut off the manual control completely I'love have more control over the fan speeds?


----------



## nick779

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Forgot to attach the pic. Everyone said that mounting a Corsair H100i in an Antec Twelve Hundred V3 case was impossible. This is proof that it's not. It's setup as a push/pull system, but I didn't use the pre-drilled holes on the top of the case, which Antec said was made to easily install a 200mm rad. First of all, a 200mm rad isn't big enough, and second, they should have drilled holes for 2 of them, if they intended for people to use a 200mm rad. Even a guy who I spoke with at FrozenCPU said it couldn't be done, but I wish I would have spoke with him before ordering all my components for this new build because he told me that the CaseLabs cases were the best, and easiest to work with so now I find myself trying to make the best out of this case. I've thought about ordering a new case and switching everything over, but at this point, what would I do with this Antec?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Does anyone have a favorite fan, 120mm, that has the highest CFM than others? I'don't like to change out all my fans with more powerful fans, also ones with a blue LED. I'm assuming whatever fans I have installed in my case will also work on the H100i. The chassis fans on the case are 3 pin, but I can still connect them to the 4 pin connections on my MB. Is there any advantage when I buy new fans to buy 4 pin fans instead of the 3 pin fans currently installed? And what make and model of fan is going to give me the most airflow? My case also has a 200mm fan on top of the case that maxes out around 600-700 RPMs. Is there any way to increase that? The fans came with manual speed controls, which are still connected to the fans, but are set on high so I can control the speeds through the software instead. Do you think if I just cut off the manual control completely I'love have more control over the fan speeds?


Airflow means nothing without pressure when it comes to rad fans or case intake fans with a filter. My current favorites are the delta AFB1212L AFB1212M but if you have a pwm header you can get the HH, VH and SH versions with PWM for $10-15 off ebay if you look around. If you have voltage control, look for the L or M versions, I have 3 M versions and at 60% (Minimum voltage control level through the bios on my mobo) they sit at 1400rpm, with Fan Xpert they can go all the way down to ~600rpm. That leaves a ton of headroom as these max out at 1900rpm for the L and 2200 for the M. at 1500rpm, these make my old case intake 140mm 1400rpmrosewill hyperboras look like a POS when you feel the actual airflow as a case intake.

If you want the M version, go on ebay and look for an AFB1212H and find one off a dell heatsink, Theyre abour $8 each shipped and are actually AFB1212Ms with the wrong label.


----------



## jellybeans69

Favorite 12cm fan? Probably delta the finger destroyer i used to own


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stefy*
> 
> It's because I have 2 Cards dumping heat into the case, and considering it's a pretty hot case to begin with, then yeah. It's seated properly. Noticed my CPU's stock voltage was at 1.2 lowered it to 1.035 which dropped temps by ~10C. Should be okay for now.


If you havent already, set your fans as push intake. Should pull cooler air from around the case right into the rad and lower the temps a few c for you


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nick779*
> 
> So throughout the past week ive waited for Corsair to respond to my ticket about my fans and have heard absolutely nothing, which apparently according to their forums isnt all that uncommon. So im getting slightly paranoid about leaks or something catastrophically damaging my pc and getting screwed by corsair.
> 
> Have any of you have really bad experiences with their service or had leaky coolers?


If you send me your ticket #, I can look it up and find out what's going on. Are you having some problems with the fans that came with your H105 cooler?

And don't worry about your cooler leaking. Yes, there are cases out there, but very rare relative to the amount of units we sell every month. If it leaks, we will take care of you, as long that the claim is legit. Meaning, no modding was involved.

So those things that heard about 5 months turn around time.. those are long gone. You are in good hands


----------



## nick779

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nick779*
> 
> So throughout the past week ive waited for Corsair to respond to my ticket about my fans and have heard absolutely nothing, which apparently according to their forums isnt all that uncommon. So im getting slightly paranoid about leaks or something catastrophically damaging my pc and getting screwed by corsair.
> 
> Have any of you have really bad experiences with their service or had leaky coolers?
> 
> 
> 
> If you send me your ticket #, I can look it up and find out what's going on. Are you having some problems with the fans that came with your H105 cooler?
> 
> And don't worry about your cooler leaking. Yes, there are cases out there, but very rare relative to the amount of units we sell every month. If it leaks, we will take care of you, as long that the claim is legit. Meaning, no modding was involved.
> 
> So those things that heard about 5 months turn around time.. those are long gone. You are in good hands
Click to expand...

I'll be pming you.

And that 5 month case was last posted to a few days ago with another issue with the Rma


----------



## schoolofmonkey

I've noticed the H105 mounting bracket.
Is there any way of getting that for the H110, it looks a lot more secure than the plastic one you get with it..
Mine, even though is cooling properly, the plastic rear mount sits up a little on one side and where the screws are bends a little more, same stock foam, just seems one compressed more than the other.
Pump sits flat, checked it with a split level..lol..


----------



## nick779

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> I've noticed the H105 mounting bracket.
> Is there any way of getting that for the H110, it looks a lot more secure than the plastic one you get with it..
> Mine, even though is cooling properly, the plastic rear mount sits up a little on one side and where the screws are bends a little more, same stock foam, just seems one compressed more than the other.
> Pump sits flat, checked it with a split level..lol..


Not sure what you mean, the mount on the backside of the mobo is plastic on the H105.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nick779*
> 
> Not sure what you mean, the mount on the backside of the mobo is plastic on the H105.


On the 110 they have the stupid little lugs that go through the motherboard, and the screws are permanently attached to the pump.
Where the h105 has the new bracket that thumb screws down, the rear mount that goes under the motherboard looks like it sits better than the one that came with the H110.


----------



## curly haired boy

so folks i have an h100i that i'm pretty happy with. not really happy about the default fans, which i switched for PWM corsair SP120s (performance edition). my problem is the sleeve bearings have this really annoying thrummm resonance anywhere from 900-1700 RPM. plus, there's a little bearing hiss that really gets on my nerves. I've got them mounted in push as exhaust through my case top, and I've heard the bearings don't like fighting gravity AND air pressure to stay in their sockets.

anyway, all this noise is very quiet, so that's a plus....but it's not uniform, and it's attention-grabbing, and i'm tired of dealing with it. I don't mind going a bit louder if i get a uniform sound profile.

I'm thinking of going with some delta PWM fans, AFB1212 series. Anyone have any experience with them?


----------



## rolldog

I'm looking to replace the fans on my H100i as well and actually have the Corsair Air Series SP 120 LED Blue High Static Pressure Fan Cooling - twin pack (CO-9050031-WW) sitting in my cart right now. Are these the same ones you have and are replacing? My rad is mounted to the back of my case, and I have the 2 fans that came with it hooked up to the case, then the rad, and now I'm getting 2 more 120mm fans to mount on the other side of the rad for a push/pull system. I've been looking for some 120mm high static pressure fans with a blue led and these were some of the only ones I found that looked worth a crap. I've heard nothing but good things about the Delta fans, but they don't make any that have a blur LED or else I'd buy them.


----------



## curly haired boy

well since you're mounting horizontally you shouldn't have any noise issues. It's really only my particular mount (pushing up) that makes the fans have the noise problem.


----------



## nick779

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> so folks i have an h100i that i'm pretty happy with. not really happy about the default fans, which i switched for PWM corsair SP120s (performance edition). my problem is the sleeve bearings have this really annoying thrummm resonance anywhere from 900-1700 RPM. plus, there's a little bearing hiss that really gets on my nerves. I've got them mounted in push as exhaust through my case top, and I've heard the bearings don't like fighting gravity AND air pressure to stay in their sockets.
> 
> anyway, all this noise is very quiet, so that's a plus....but it's not uniform, and it's attention-grabbing, and i'm tired of dealing with it. I don't mind going a bit louder if i get a uniform sound profile.
> 
> I'm thinking of going with some delta PWM fans, AFB1212 series. Anyone have any experience with them?


good luck finding the PWM versions, Ive had great luck with the voltage controlled 25mm ones. Specifically the AFB1212M.

If you look on ebay theyre sold as Heatsink fans for a dell but listed as an AFB1212H. I have 3 of them and they all perform like the 2200rpm M versions. Great fans though.


----------



## rolldog

Nick779,

You mentioned those Delta fans to me in an earlier post, but I'm looking to get some fans with nude LED lighting on them. What do you think of the Corsair Air Series SP 120 LED Blue High Static Pressure fans for my rad? You mentioned static pressure is important when deciding on a fan for a rad, as opposed to a case fan. Another one I was looking at was an Enermax, which maxes out at 1800RPM, 75.98 CFM, and static pressure of 2.276 H2O @ 14-25dBA. The static pressure on these is twice of the Corsair High Static Pressure fans with a lower dBA as well. Also, if my intake case fans have a filter and are mounted on front of a hard drive case with 3 hard drives in it, would I be better off using fans similar to what I would use on the rad, and only get specific case fans if there are no obstructions behind the fan? Also, have you ever worked with or heard about these Gelid fans? I appreciate any of your input. You sound very knowledgeable when it comes to fans. Thanks again.


----------



## nick779

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Nick779,
> 
> You mentioned those Delta fans to me in an earlier post, but I'm looking to get some fans with nude LED lighting on them. What do you think of the Corsair Air Series SP 120 LED Blue High Static Pressure fans for my rad? You mentioned static pressure is important when deciding on a fan for a rad, as opposed to a case fan. Another one I was looking at was an Enermax, which maxes out at 1800RPM, 75.98 CFM, and static pressure of 2.276 H2O @ 14-25dBA. The static pressure on these is twice of the Corsair High Static Pressure fans with a lower dBA as well. Also, if my intake case fans have a filter and are mounted on front of a hard drive case with 3 hard drives in it, would I be better off using fans similar to what I would use on the rad, and only get specific case fans if there are no obstructions behind the fan? Also, have you ever worked with or heard about these Gelid fans? I appreciate any of your input. You sound very knowledgeable when it comes to fans. Thanks again.


In my opinion, from what ive seen and dealt with, the air series fans are only good for exhaust, where the SP series fans are good for filtered intakes and radiators. Ive had my fair share of SP120s and theyre decent fans, but expensive. Ive heard mixed reviews about the enermax fans and im not impressed with the cougars. The only other fans I can really recommend that are LED are the Cooler master Jetflos, DaveLT seems to like them and they consistently test at or over spec. There arent many good LED fans out there, but if theyre on a radiator Id take performance over looks everyday.

Never worked with Gelid fans, but I think a few people have mentioned bearing noise on them.


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nick779*
> 
> good luck finding the PWM versions, Ive had great luck with the voltage controlled 25mm ones. Specifically the AFB1212M.
> 
> If you look on ebay theyre sold as Heatsink fans for a dell but listed as an AFB1212H. I have 3 of them and they all perform like the 2200rpm M versions. Great fans though.


i was thinking of the AFB1212SHE fans, they're 38mm and PWM. I've found them already, i just gotta make sure that my mobo has clearance when i get home tonight.

and then i'll have 4 SP120 PWM corsairs to offload


----------



## nick779

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> i was thinking of the AFB1212SHE fans, they're 38mm and PWM. I've found them already, i just gotta make sure that my mobo has clearance when i get home tonight.
> 
> and then i'll have 4 SP120 PWM corsairs to offload


Even better, just make sure you dont get the white ones from an Apple computer. Their PWM wire is set up totally different than a normal Delta PWM fan.


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nick779*
> 
> Even better, just make sure you dont get the white ones from an Apple computer. Their PWM wire is set up totally different than a normal Delta PWM fan.


as far as i know, these aren't white









was trying to find some delta fan videos on youtube to get a sense of how they'd sound undervolted but i'm not having any luck....


----------



## nick779

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> as far as i know, these aren't white
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> was trying to find some delta fan videos on youtube to get a sense of how they'd sound undervolted but i'm not having any luck....


I hope youre going to run them off of a fan controller, because a single AFB1212SHE will blow a 1A mobo header in a heartbeat. The PWM versions dont tend to undervolt as well depending on what revision the fans are as they usually have an operating range of 6v/7v-13.8V and the non PWM ones go down to 4v. personally I would get the pwm versions and get a PWM splitter that pulls juice from a molex and only sends a single tac signal to the motherboard. Pwm doesnt undervolt the fan BTW.


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nick779*
> 
> I hope youre going to run them off of a fan controller, because a single AFB1212SHE will blow a 1A mobo header in a heartbeat. The PWM versions dont tend to undervolt as well depending on what revision the fans are as they usually have an operating range of 6v/7v-13.8V and the non PWM ones go down to 4v. personally I would get the pwm versions and get a PWM splitter that pulls juice from a molex and only sends a single tac signal to the motherboard. Pwm doesnt undervolt the fan BTW.


H100i pump has 2 fan channels at 2A each, i was gonna plug 1 into each - at 1.6 amps they should work fine. they'll be PWM controlled by the pump.


----------



## nick779

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> H100i pump has 2 fan channels at 2A each, i was gonna plug 1 into each - at 1.6 amps they should work fine. they'll be PWM controlled by the pump.


Oh, I had no idea the pump had fan headers


----------



## mitchcook420

Finally got my H105 installed


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Does anyone have a favorite fan, 120mm, that has the highest CFM than others? I'don't like to change out all my fans with more powerful fans, also ones with a blue LED. I'm assuming whatever fans I have installed in my case will also work on the H100i. The chassis fans on the case are 3 pin, but I can still connect them to the 4 pin connections on my MB. Is there any advantage when I buy new fans to buy 4 pin fans instead of the 3 pin fans currently installed? And what make and model of fan is going to give me the most airflow? My case also has a 200mm fan on top of the case that maxes out around 600-700 RPMs. Is there any way to increase that? The fans came with manual speed controls, which are still connected to the fans, but are set on high so I can control the speeds through the software instead. Do you think if I just cut off the manual control completely I'love have more control over the fan speeds?


I know someone else was helping you out, but if you don't mind me sticking my nose in:

The 4-pin headers are for PWM fan (pulse width modulation). These fans are made to be controlled by sending a pulse to the fan. The longer the pulse, the longer the fan stays on and the faster it goes. These fans can be controlled very well and are usually used as CPU fans. Lately, more and more manufacturers have been using them or variations for case fans, so you will fine more 4-pin fan headers than you used to. Some of them have restrictions, or work slightly differently when controlling 4-pin fans plugged into the case fan spots, so be sure to read you manual and see how it controls 4-pin case fans.

3-pin fans are controlled by varying the 12V line up and down. Some main boards will not control 3-pin fans, but only run them at 100% all the time. Some will give you steps in voltage you can run them at. Again, check with you motherboard manual.

For a radiator, you should use fans with the highest Static Pressure, not necessarily the highest air flow. Try the ans that come with the cooler first, write down you temps so you see if any other fans you try are better or worse.

Personally, I prefer PWM fans myself because, they work with 4-pin headers, and you can also control them on a 3-pin header like a 3-pin fan.

One last advantage to PWM fans. You can add multiple PWM fans to a single motherboard header, and have them all controlled by that header, by using a PWM splitter cable. This will generally draw the 12V power directly from the power supply, while controlling the fans from a 4-pin header on the motherboard. The largest splitter I've seen personally is 8 fans, they also come in 5 fan, 4 fan and two fan splitters. This works very well if you happen to be using a radiator that needs four fans for push/pull and you would like them all controlled from one or two headers so they will go the same speed.

Note, you should be looking for fans with the best static pressure for your rad, not necessarily the best air flow. Air flow fans are usually for case fans. Try the stock fans first, write down your temps before experimenting with other fans so you can compare them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mitchcook420*
> 
> Finally got my H105 installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great man. Nice job.


----------



## mitchcook420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Looks great man. Nice job.


Thanks









So far I'm really liking the looks more importantly the performance compared to the stock Intel cooler it replaced


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I know someone else was helping you out, but if you don't mind me sticking my nose in:
> 
> The 4-pin headers are for PWM fan (pulse width modulation). These fans are made to be controlled by sending a pulse to the fan. The longer the pulse, the longer the fan stays on and the faster it goes. These fans can be controlled very well and are usually used as CPU fans. Lately, more and more manufacturers have been using them or variations for case fans, so you will fine more 4-pin fan headers than you used to. Some of them have restrictions, or work slightly differently when controlling 4-pin fans plugged into the case fan spots, so be sure to read you manual and see how it controls 4-pin case fans.
> 
> 3-pin fans are controlled by varying the 12V line up and down. Some main boards will not control 3-pin fans, but only run them at 100% all the time. Some will give you steps in voltage you can run them at. Again, check with you motherboard manual.
> 
> For a radiator, you should use fans with the highest Static Pressure, not necessarily the highest air flow. Try the ans that come with the cooler first, write down you temps so you see if any other fans you try are better or worse.
> 
> Personally, I prefer PWM fans myself because, they work with 4-pin headers, and you can also control them on a 3-pin header like a 3-pin fan.
> 
> One last advantage to PWM fans. You can add multiple PWM fans to a single motherboard header, and have them all controlled by that header, by using a PWM splitter cable. This will generally draw the 12V power directly from the power supply, while controlling the fans from a 4-pin header on the motherboard. The largest splitter I've seen personally is 8 fans, they also come in 5 fan, 4 fan and two fan splitters. This works very well if you happen to be using a radiator that needs four fans for push/pull and you would like them all controlled from one or two headers so they will go the same speed.
> 
> Note, you should be looking for fans with the best static pressure for your rad, not necessarily the best air flow. Air flow fans are usually for case fans. Try the stock fans first, write down your temps before experimenting with other fans so you can compare them.
> Looks great man. Nice job.


The Corsair H100i has 2 connectors on the CPU cooler, each with a PWM fan splitter, so I can run 4 fans before having to hook anything up to the MB. Since my Asus Maximus VI Formula ROG MB has 8 separate 4 pin PWM connectors, I think I'll be able to run the fans without needing more splitters. The fans can be controlled through the BIOS or the Fan Expert 2 software. Another option is the have the system monitor the temps through the thermal sensors and the fan speeds are adjusted automatically, since I have to designate where in the case each fan is located so the speeds can be adjusted automatically based on the temperatures inside the case and where each fan is located.


----------



## Noufel

the blue led of my H100i died on me


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mitchcook420*
> 
> So far I'm really liking the looks more importantly the performance compared to the stock Intel cooler it replaced


Glad to see that you're liking the cooler in your build







Pretty clean build btw








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noufel*
> 
> the blue led of my H100i died on me


If red and green LEDs are ok, then try to flash the H100i's FW again to 1.07 in Corsair Link and see if that will trigger the blue back on. But before you flash the cooler, unplug the USB link interface on your MB and move it to a different USB header.


----------



## allindaze

Has anyone had any success installing an H100 onto the front of a Corsair 400R case? It looks to me like there is not enough room unless I remove the HDD bays.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *allindaze*
> 
> Has anyone had any success installing an H100 onto the front of a Corsair 400R case? It looks to me like there is not enough room unless I remove the HDD bays.


Never seen one. Yup, you'd need to remove the HDD cage in the front to mount an H100 rad.

Why not just do a top mount? Planning to do a GPU AIO cooling?


----------



## allindaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Never seen one. Yup, you'd need to remove the HDD cage in the front to mount an H100 rad.
> 
> Why not just do a top mount? Planning to do a GPU AIO cooling?


Currently my rad is on top blowing hot air through it using SP120 High Performance fans and getting great airflow. But I would rather use an intake and cool air with the rad. I also heard that mounting the fans upright rather than on their sides reduces noise.


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *allindaze*
> 
> Currently my rad is on top blowing hot air through it using SP120 High Performance fans and getting great airflow. But I would rather use an intake and cool air with the rad. I also heard that mounting the fans *upright rather than on their sides reduces noise.*


it's certainly true in my experience - i went through TWO batches of SP120 high performance PWM editions and while they're all very quiet for the air they blow, the intermittent chirp/tick/whirr/squeal was irritating to me. I know it's the way i have my rad mounted, they hate being upside down...

hopefully my deltas will come in soon. I'll take louder and consistent over near-silent and randomly irritating.









EDIT: I just did the rubber washer mod on my H100i backplate, and i'm seeing about 3 degrees lower. Idling stock at 29-31 C.

I am gonna replace the 5-year-old OCZ freeze I'm currently using with some IC diamond, and that, plus the deltas, should mean I can sustain my 4.6 GHz overclock at roughly 1.28 without prime95 (short FFTs) sending my temps to 100 immediately.









i reckon 300 CFM and ~1 inch of total static pressure going through the rad should work. if it doesn't....nothing will


----------



## nick779

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Never seen one. Yup, you'd need to remove the HDD cage in the front to mount an H100 rad.
> 
> Why not just do a top mount? Planning to do a GPU AIO cooling?


Thanks for the RMA help Joe, I really appreaciate it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> it's certainly true in my experience - i went through TWO batches of SP120 high performance PWM editions and while they're all very quiet for the air they blow, the intermittent chirp/tick/whirr/squeal was irritating to me. I know it's the way i have my rad mounted, they hate being upside down...
> 
> hopefully my deltas will come in soon. I'll take louder and consistent over near-silent and randomly irritating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I just did the rubber washer mod on my H100i backplate, and i'm seeing about 3 degrees lower. Idling stock at 29-31 C.
> 
> I am gonna replace the 5-year-old OCZ freeze I'm currently using with some IC diamond, and that, plus the deltas, should mean I can sustain my 4.6 GHz overclock at roughly 1.28 without prime95 (short FFTs) sending my temps to 100 immediately.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i reckon 300 CFM and ~1 inch of total static pressure going through the rad should work. if it doesn't....nothing will


I think prime small fft tests are ridiculous, my h105 is having trouble keeping up with my 4670k at 4.5/1.31vcore. In around 7-10 minutes it will creep up to 90C with all my deltas on high 2800rpm and my Grand flexes at 2400rpm. Its weird though because it takes just about the same time to do it with the flexes on 30% or 100% and theres a definite flow difference. Radiator never gets warm either, so maybe I have a TIM issue.


----------



## Royal Hammer

Hey there, PC overclocking newbie here! I've done some overclocking with Android phones, however. I have an old Galaxy Nexus (1.2 GHz stock clock) running smoothly at 1.5 GHz. My goal is to get at least 4Ghz, stable, at safe temperatures, out of my CPU.

I have an i7 950 (3.07 GHz stock, Quad Core, 8 Logical Processors) that's a couple years old, and I'm interested in overclocking it (see my rig) I've seen a lot of conflicting opinions about CPU cooling, and I'm asking for some advice on picking a cooling solution. I'm considering a Corsair Hydro Series Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler H80i, or perhaps a cheaper model like the H60 or H75. The H80i was recommended to me by a co-worker. It's also the biggest (Corsair) liquid cooling solution that my case has room for.

However, I've also heard advice saying to stay away from the self-contained liquid units, and go for a good air cooler. My PC has four 120mm case fans, and I think pretty good airflow, so I'd at least be open to discussing air CPU cooling.

So, If I'm shooting for at least 4 GHz on my 950, what cooler would YOU recommend? Is the H80i adequate? Overkill? Not enough? And, in your opinion, how realistic is my goal of "4Ghz, stable, at safe temperatures"?

Anyway, I apologize if this is the wrong place to post this, again, newbie.
Thanks for reading, and I eagerly await your advice!


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nick779*
> 
> I think prime small fft tests are ridiculous, my h105 is having trouble keeping up with my 4670k at 4.5/1.31vcore. In around 7-10 minutes it will creep up to 90C with all my deltas on high 2800rpm and my Grand flexes at 2400rpm. Its weird though because it takes just about the same time to do it with the flexes on 30% or 100% and theres a definite flow difference. Radiator never gets warm either, so maybe I have a TIM issue.


maybe. with the SP120s i can feel the tubing get warm on the H100i during p95 small FFTs, but the deltas I ordered go up to 3700 RPM, so hopefully that will change.

we might be up against flowrate restrictions - the CPU @ voltages above 1.25 just cranks out a ridiculous amount of heat, and even with the best mounting and TIM, the pump might not be able to cycle water through fast enough to suck it away.

if only there was a way to increase pump speed....


----------



## nick779

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> maybe. with the SP120s i can feel the tubing get warm on the H100i during p95 small FFTs, but the deltas I ordered go up to 3700 RPM, so hopefully that will change.
> 
> we might be up against flowrate restrictions - the CPU @ voltages above 1.25 just cranks out a ridiculous amount of heat, and even with the best mounting and TIM, the pump might not be able to cycle water through fast enough to suck it away.
> 
> if only there was a way to increase pump speed....


from what ive heard, its normal because new versions of prime use AVX instructions and it creates an absurd heat load on a very small die. Supposedly intel needs to go back to soldering on the heat spreader and these problems will vanish.


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nick779*
> 
> from what ive heard, its normal because new versions of prime use AVX instructions and it creates an absurd heat load on a very small die. Supposedly intel needs to go back to soldering on the heat spreader and these problems will vanish.


that's part of it, I'm sure. but from what I've seen of delidding results, it's not even that drastic of an improvement. I think most of the issue is having all of the voltage regulation on-die. sure, AVX will heat things up during computation, but when you've got to dissipate that PLUS vrm heat.... that's probably why increases in voltage are producing such crazy jumps in heat production.

honestly, I don't even think a conventional waterblock would be able to deal that well. Haswell just runs really hot with AVX.


----------



## Vici0us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Royal Hammer*
> 
> Hey there, PC overclocking newbie here! I've done some overclocking with Android phones, however. I have an old Galaxy Nexus (1.2 GHz stock clock) running smoothly at 1.5 GHz. My goal is to get at least 4Ghz, stable, at safe temperatures, out of my CPU.
> 
> I have an i7 950 (3.07 GHz stock, Quad Core, 8 Logical Processors) that's a couple years old, and I'm interested in overclocking it (see my rig) I've seen a lot of conflicting opinions about CPU cooling, and I'm asking for some advice on picking a cooling solution. I'm considering a Corsair Hydro Series Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler H80i, or perhaps a cheaper model like the H60 or H75. The H80i was recommended to me by a co-worker. It's also the biggest (Corsair) liquid cooling solution that my case has room for.
> 
> However, I've also heard advice saying to stay away from the self-contained liquid units, and go for a good air cooler. My PC has four 120mm case fans, and I think pretty good airflow, so I'd at least be open to discussing air CPU cooling.
> 
> So, If I'm shooting for at least 4 GHz on my 950, what cooler would YOU recommend? Is the H80i adequate? Overkill? Not enough? And, in your opinion, how realistic is my goal of "4Ghz, stable, at safe temperatures"?
> 
> Anyway, I apologize if this is the wrong place to post this, again, newbie.
> Thanks for reading, and I eagerly await your advice!


You'd get best temps and best overclock out of H80i. Since you have space go for it. It's got a better rad then other closed loops you mentioned. You can add an extra fan for push-pull, it will drop your temps a bit more.


----------



## Royal Hammer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vici0us*
> 
> You'd get best temps and best overclock out of H80i. Since you have space go for it. It's got a better rad then other closed loops you mentioned. You can add an extra fan for push-pull, it will drop your temps a bit more.


Sounds good, but I'm learning from a discussion in a i7 950 thread, that I might have trouble getting much overclocking out of it, thanks to the IMC on Bloomfield, with my 12 GB of RAM. I might not need that much cooling after all....


----------



## Vici0us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Royal Hammer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Vici0us*
> 
> You'd get best temps and best overclock out of H80i. Since you have space go for it. It's got a better rad then other closed loops you mentioned. You can add an extra fan for push-pull, it will drop your temps a bit more.
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds good, but I'm learning from a discussion in a i7 950 thread, that I might have trouble getting much overclocking out of it, thanks to the IMC on Bloomfield, with my 12 GB of RAM. I might not need that much cooling after all....
Click to expand...

If you're gonna go with air then go with Noctua, they're the best. If you don't need that much cooling then just get the Cooler Master Hyper 212.


----------



## curly haired boy

got some black screws for my deltas....thinking of painting the shrouds white, leaving the blades black.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> The Corsair H100i has 2 connectors on the CPU cooler, each with a PWM fan splitter, so I can run 4 fans before having to hook anything up to the MB. Since my Asus Maximus VI Formula ROG MB has 8 separate 4 pin PWM connectors, I think I'll be able to run the fans without needing more splitters. The fans can be controlled through the BIOS or the Fan Expert 2 software. Another option is the have the system monitor the temps through the thermal sensors and the fan speeds are adjusted automatically, since I have to designate where in the case each fan is located so the speeds can be adjusted automatically based on the temperatures inside the case and where each fan is located.


I'm also leaning toward using PWM fans and my motherboard headers to control the case fans in my case. I have been using a Scythe fan controller because the case-fans I was using are 3-pin. I have been thinking about purchasing the Corsair Graphite 760T but I would be short by one front bay. So, I'm considering using the ASUS AI Suite and the motherboard to control some PWM fans in the new case.

The PWM fans Corsair uses with their "i" series coolers are actually pretty good, and the H100i having 4 control headers is great. I haven't tried their software but after all the trials and tribulations since it came out, it seems they have finally got it working well.

I'm using an H100, and I'm using two Corsair SP120 Performance editions PWM fans on it, both controlled from the motherboard. I've had them for about six months now, mounted in the top of my case as exhaust, and I haven't had any noise issues. Since I'm running the software anyway, I might as well take the final leap and let the motherboard have full control. Then I could start experimenting with all the custom setups the software offers.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I'm also leaning toward using PWM fans and my motherboard headers to control the case fans in my case.


This is what I'm doing on my H110, but I'm using Noctua NF-A14 in push/pull.
The CPU PWM header is working really well to control the fan speeds, but I did have to set it to Turbo mode, which still only spins the fans up to 1000RPM at 65c, which keeps it really quiet even with the 4 fans.
I have the pump connected to a chassis fan connector with Q-Fan turned off so it runs at full speed, plus I can get notifications if it stops.


----------



## rolldog

Well, I finally got everything put back together. Added the H100i with a push/pull configuration, and I changed out all my cables to some custom made individually sleeved cables, and I installed all new fans. I turned it on last night, and my Asus Maximus VI Formula MB gave me an error 55 on its Q code display, which means a RAM problem. I moved the RAM around, reseated it, tried using 1 stick, loosened up my CPU cooler to make sure everything was on straight, and I even used different RAM, but this error 55 won't go away. Is anyone familiar with this MB or have any suggestions that I could try? Everything was working fine before I added these things, but now my system won't power on. This really suvks.

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


----------



## curly haired boy

well, the delta fans definitely do the trick!

stable at 4.2 @ 1.15 volts. prime95 small FFT gets me up to 84, but i'm pretty happy overall.


----------



## vabeachboy0

Here's what I've been working on the past few days. The impeller has been removed so I can use external pump. The tubing is 3/8" ID. Its still fully functional with corsair link. I'll put up more picture's soon. EDIT: I rearranged some things


----------



## curly haired boy

that's pretty neat!


----------



## Perturabo

Hello
I want to h105 to replace Noctua 14. But I have question ... it's a mechanical thing and any thing can go wrong and what will happens to my PC parts (video card, motherboard & etc) if they leak fluid from the h105?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> This is what I'm doing on my H110, but I'm using Noctua NF-A14 in push/pull.
> The CPU PWM header is working really well to control the fan speeds, but I did have to set it to Turbo mode, which still only spins the fans up to 1000RPM at 65c, which keeps it really quiet even with the 4 fans.
> I have the pump connected to a chassis fan connector with Q-Fan turned off so it runs at full speed, plus I can get notifications if it stops.


I think I will try this in the coming Fall. Any spare cash I have right now is going toward renovating my bathroom until then. Replacing everything except the tub.
I would much rather purchase a shiny new Corsair case, but the bathroom cannot wait any longer...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Well, I finally got everything put back together. Added the H100i with a push/pull configuration, and I changed out all my cables to some custom made individually sleeved cables, and I installed all new fans. I turned it on last night, and my Asus Maximus VI Formula MB gave me an error 55 on its Q code display, which means a RAM problem. I moved the RAM around, reseated it, tried using 1 stick, loosened up my CPU cooler to make sure everything was on straight, and I even used different RAM, but this error 55 won't go away. Is anyone familiar with this MB or have any suggestions that I could try? Everything was working fine before I added these things, but now my system won't power on. This really suvks.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


I would recommend removing the board from your case, along with the psu, and try getting it to work on a tabletop.
Also make sure you're using the right sockets (no really, I've seen it happen). Of course, reset your CMOS. Got any other RAM kicking around you could use for a sub?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perturabo*
> 
> Hello
> I want to h105 to replace Noctua 14. But I have question ... it's a mechanical thing and any thing can go wrong and what will happens to my PC parts (video card, motherboard & etc) if they leak fluid from the h105?


What can go wrong? Basically the same things that can go wrong in any other liquid cooling system. The pump could fail, the fans could fail, the mount could break, the hoses could get kinked or punctured.
If your CPU starts overheating your system will shut down. If the unit leaks then anything it leaks on will most likely be toast. However, Corsair has been really good standing behind their product when a manufacturing defect is at fault, which is very rare.

If you're not sure you can install one of these coolers without damaging it, then I would recommend sticking with an air cooler. These coolers are easy to install and maintenance free, and come with a 5-year warranty. Personally I think they're great.


----------



## MCFC

Well I just got an email from the retailer telling me I can pick up the h105 instead of my old h100i
Hope the mounting system on that isn't as frustrating as on the h100i


----------



## Revolver232

I'm wanting to swap from a Coolermaster Evo 212 Plus to a H100i or H110i Hydro Series. What would be the steps of removing the thermal paste that is already on the CPU. This was my first build and am curious what risks I take swapping this.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I'm also leaning toward using PWM fans and my motherboard headers to control the case fans in my case. I have been using a Scythe fan controller because the case-fans I was using are 3-pin. I have been thinking about purchasing the Corsair Graphite 760T but I would be short by one front bay. So, I'm considering using the ASUS AI Suite and the motherboard to control some PWM fans in the new case.
> 
> The PWM fans Corsair uses with their "i" series coolers are actually pretty good, and the H100i having 4 control headers is great. I haven't tried their software but after all the trials and tribulations since it came out, it seems they have finally got it working well.
> 
> I'm using an H100, and I'm using two Corsair SP120 Performance editions PWM fans on it, both controlled from the motherboard. I've had them for about six months now, mounted in the top of my case as exhaust, and I haven't had any noise issues. Since I'm running the software anyway, I might as well take the final leap and let the motherboard have full control. Then I could start experimenting with all the custom setups the software offers.


That's what I did. I purchased a fan controller because it could control 5 fans and has 5 thermal sensors, but as I was assembling the the system, I noticed how many fan connectors my Asus Maximus VI Formula ROG MB has so a week or two after using the fan controller, I switched the fans over to the MB, which can be controlled through the BIOS and their Fan X-pert software. It's a whole lot easier, but I kinda miss the look of the fan controller on the front of my system. The MB still has a few thermal sensors I can hook up, but it seems to me that they can only be hooked up to an external device, which wouldn't make a lot of sense seeing that the Fan X-Pert software can control the fans automatically based off thetemperature readings on the MB. If the thermal sensors are connected to an external device, how is the system hinge to know the operating temps?


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revolver232*
> 
> I'm wanting to swap from a Coolermaster Evo 212 Plus to a H100i or H110i Hydro Series. What would be the steps of removing the thermal paste that is already on the CPU. This was my first build and am curious what risks I take swapping this.


Should not be any risks at all, use the highest percentage of rubbing alcohol you can find with a q-tip or cotton ball to rub the TIM off the CPU. Im pretty sure they dont make a H110i but make sure if you go for the H110 that it will fit in your case, since that cooler is a monster!

Also if you are looking to get one of these Corsair cooling kits you may want to look into replacement fans. The stock ones can get pretty loud at load, so if the sound doesnt bother you or you wear a headset you should look into this also. I have the H100i and replaced the stock Corsair fans with Noctua F12s and now cannot hear the H100i at all.


----------



## Revolver232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Should not be any risks at all, use the highest percentage of rubbing alcohol you can find with a q-tip or cotton ball to rub the TIM off the CPU. Im pretty sure they dont make a H110i but make sure if you go for the H110 that it will fit in your case, since that cooler is a monster!
> 
> Also if you are looking to get one of these Corsair cooling kits you may want to look into replacement fans. The stock ones can get pretty loud at load, so if the sound doesnt bother you or you wear a headset you should look into this also. I have the H100i and replaced the stock Corsair fans with Noctua F12s and now cannot hear the H100i at all.


Which one are you running? I have the C70 Arctic White Case currently. Should be a fairly easy swap then I take it?


----------



## DrockinWV

Im running a H100i on the top of my Fractal Design R4 case, I could have used the H110 but then the heatsinks on my motherboard would have gotten in the way. It can be a very tight fit. Here is a link to check the compatibilty for the H100i or H110, which ever you choose to use.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1144409/h80-h80i-h90-h100-h100i-h110-case-compatibility-thread-page-1-for-full-listings/0_20


----------



## mitchcook420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revolver232*
> 
> I'm wanting to swap from a Coolermaster Evo 212 Plus to a H100i or H110i Hydro Series. What would be the steps of removing the thermal paste that is already on the CPU. This was my first build and am curious what risks I take swapping this.


I would suggest getting an H105 if you have the $ and can fit the extra rad thickness


----------



## nick779

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mitchcook420*
> 
> I would suggest getting an H105 if you have the $ and can fit the extra rad thickness


The H105 is pretty nice, I had to RMA mine for pump noise recently, but Corsair Joseph took care of me, and the new one is looking like its much better.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> That's what I did. I purchased a fan controller because it could control 5 fans and has 5 thermal sensors, but as I was assembling the the system, I noticed how many fan connectors my Asus Maximus VI Formula ROG MB has so a week or two after using the fan controller, I switched the fans over to the MB, which can be controlled through the BIOS and their Fan X-pert software. It's a whole lot easier, but I kinda miss the look of the fan controller on the front of my system. The MB still has a few thermal sensors I can hook up, but it seems to me that they can only be hooked up to an external device, which wouldn't make a lot of sense seeing that the Fan X-Pert software can control the fans automatically based off thetemperature readings on the MB. If the thermal sensors are connected to an external device, how is the system hinge to know the operating temps?


My Saber tooth board also came with a couple of temperature probes. They plug into the board and let you sense the temp in any area you place them or on any device. I would have to check the manual to see if any of the chassis fan headers can use them for temperature controlling a fan.
I know what you mean about losing the fan controller. I used to have one I really liked but it took up two bays so I ended up having to remove it. I still miss it.

Hey, opportunity for an old computer selfie....



Lol, that was when I had nine fans (including four on the H100) and so I needed two fan controllers. Down to six now, and two of them are controlled by the motherboard.

Yeah, I miss that build.


----------



## bartledoo

what is this coming from the fan?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bartledoo*
> 
> what is this coming from the fan?


Looks like a bit of excess grease or bearing fluid. Just clean it up, run the fan outside the case and let the excess pour out until it stops leaking. Clean any leaks and reinstall the fan. Do at your own risk.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bartledoo*
> 
> what is this coming from the fan?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Looks like a bit of excess grease or bearing fluid. Just clean it up, run the fan outside the case and let the excess pour out until it stops leaking. Clean any leaks and reinstall the fan. Do at your own risk.


^ This.

It just so happens that some of the stock fans are overly lubricated. I wouldn't worry about it, it will not affect the fan's longevity. You can simply wipe it off with a paper towel.


----------



## bartledoo

Will do! Thanks Corsair Joe and Bradley!


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bartledoo*
> 
> Will do! Thanks Corsair Joe and Bradley!


No problem!


----------



## texas_nightowl

Checking in after a long time away....have an original rev H60 (from 2011). Just wondering how they seem to be holding up? Should I be concerned at all and think about replacement soon...or let it roll? Have others started having any problems? My temps are a little higher and I have some other posts about that, but I don't think it is the H60's fault...room and airflow have changed.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

I'm switching the Hero for a Gigabyte Z97X Gaming G1, whats the best way to change over the stick foam from the H110 if the gets damaged?
Would some double sided foam tape work if I doubled it up?

From the Kraken X60 mount (which is the exact same mount.)
Is it too thick?


----------



## Rebellion88

My Corsair H80 seems pretty decent at the moment, even in the room thats rather humid it holds up well with the 8350. Do these coolers have a life cycle where they lose their quality?


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *texas_nightowl*
> 
> Checking in after a long time away....have an original rev H60 (from 2011). Just wondering how they seem to be holding up? Should I be concerned at all and think about replacement soon...or let it roll? Have others started having any problems? My temps are a little higher and I have some other posts about that, but I don't think it is the H60's fault...room and airflow have changed.


I'd simply let it roll till the wheels fall off. We've actually never seen a trend since we have released our first gen coolers relating to failures after x amount of years. If these AIO coolers started to fail, the signs are rather apparent and fairly easy to detect, CPU temp reaching extreme temp while system is on idle, pump noise, liquid leaks and such. Until you don't see any of those, your cooler is good.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> I'm switching the Hero for a Gigabyte Z97X Gaming G1, whats the best way to change over the stick foam from the H110 if the gets damaged?
> Would some double sided foam tape work if I doubled it up?
> 
> From the Kraken X60 mount (which is the exact same mount.)
> Is it too thick?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those padding are just meant to hold the backplate in place while you put the standoffs in each screw hole. One double sided tape should be enough, but two will probably give you a better fit (no play) when you put the standoffs.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebellion88*
> 
> My Corsair H80 seems pretty decent at the moment, even in the room thats rather humid it holds up well with the 8350. Do these coolers have a life cycle where they lose their quality?


They do have a 5 year warranty and yet we have seen units that last more than that. I have an H50 (1st) since 2009 that is installed in my son's system and still running fine. As long that the cooler is not showing any sign of slowing down, they are totally ok to use.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Those padding are just meant to hold the backplate in place while you put the standoffs in each screw hole. One double sided tape should be enough, but two will probably give you a better fit (no play) when you put the standoffs.
> .


Thanks for that, makes it clearer.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Thanks for that, makes it clearer.


No problem


----------



## aaroc

My H100i never turned the light on with or without Corsair link. I reinstalled windows, installed new version of CL. Pressed button moved sliders and nothing no light or color. Before I had a H100 that had color.
Is there any trick yo know before contacting Corsair about my problem? The pump reports its values to CL and the temp of the CPU is very low, so the pump part is working.


----------



## MCFC

Guys when I turn on SIlent mode for my fans using ROG AI Suite it even turns off my CPU fans...the temps stay at 29c idle...
Is this safe?


----------



## mitchcook420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> Guys when I turn on SIlent mode for my fans using ROG AI Suite it even turns off my CPU fans...the temps stay at 29c idle...
> Is this safe?


I have an H105 and I have it set in the bios to run the pump at 100%(1850rpm) off a chassis fan header and have the fans plugged into the CPU header and run on the standard CPU profile, but to have them stop completely I dunno, I have always used the "standard" cooling profile in the bios


----------



## texas_nightowl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> I'd simply let it roll till the wheels fall off. We've actually never seen a trend since we have released our first gen coolers relating to failures after x amount of years. If these AIO coolers started to fail, the signs are rather apparent and fairly easy to detect, CPU temp reaching extreme temp while system is on idle, pump noise, liquid leaks and such. Until you don't see any of those, your cooler is good.
> .
> They do have a 5 year warranty and yet we have seen units that last more than that. I have an H50 (1st) since 2009 that is installed in my son's system and still running fine. As long that the cooler is not showing any sign of slowing down, they are totally ok to use.


Thanks Corsair Joseph. Sorry for the late response...when it rains it pours...first dead fans, now a dying hard drive and a dead card reader. Ugh!

Anyway, I'll keep rolling with the H60. One other question though...I am going to be turning the H60 from intake to exhaust due to the position and airflow in the room now. Is it better to mount a fan so it is pushing air thru the rad to exhaust or mount the fan so it is pulling air thru the rad to exhaust?


----------



## curly haired boy

been noticing a temp spike in my h100i. it's either an air bubble in the pump or the 5-year-old OCZ freeze has finally dried out









either way, it'll be a remount as soon as the GC extreme i ordered arrives. I want those mid-20s temps!


----------



## lawrencendlw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *texas_nightowl*
> 
> Thanks Corsair Joseph. Sorry for the late response...when it rains it pours...first dead fans, now a dying hard drive and a dead card reader. Ugh!
> 
> Anyway, I'll keep rolling with the H60. One other question though...I am going to be turning the H60 from intake to exhaust due to the position and airflow in the room now. Is it better to mount a fan so it is pushing air thru the rad to exhaust or mount the fan so it is pulling air thru the rad to exhaust?


It's technically best to do both. Have it in a Push/Pull configuration if you can. Much better temp potential no matter what you set it as (intake or exhaust).


----------



## texas_nightowl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw*
> 
> It's technically best to do both. Have it in a Push/Pull configuration if you can. Much better temp potential no matter what you set it as (intake or exhaust).


Yeah...I'm thinking about it. I just hate the look. Looks so bulky. Then again...I don't really open the case and look at it.

Here's the setup I'm considering going with:


I don't currently have a bottom fan. That would be added new. Right now the fan on the rad pulls air in and I would be switching it to exhaust. In this scenario, should I move the top exhaust fan over to the right or leave it as in the picture?

The other scenario I was considering is this:


Only concern being I remember the hoses on the H60 as being somewhat inflexible. Will I need to possibly remove the pump from the cpu and re-orient it if I move the rad to the top?


----------



## curly haired boy

you shouldn't need to remove the pump for just a 90 degree turn. just keep the rad supported and you shouldn't put any undue torque on the block.


----------



## DrockinWV

I would always say to use your rad as intake, since you will be running cooler air through the rad, and thus lower temps of your CPU.


----------



## texas_nightowl

OK, so let's say I re-consider going with option 2 and move the rad to the top and run fans as intake...and, possibly, maybe, do a 2 fan push/pull...of the Corsair SP120's, CoolerMaster JetFlo 120, or Acasa Apache/Rosewill HyperBorea, which do best at both push/pull AND are OK being mounted horizontally? I'd add NoiseBlocker e-loops to the list but apparently they aren't great for pull. (Also, are there any 140's that can be used even though the rad is for a 120?)

I am presuming I would want to leave the pump plugged into a non-PWM header (PWR_FAN on my board I believe) and the fans into a PWM (CPU_FAN) header.

(And before anyone says Gentle Typhoons...as they are not easily available anymore, even the AP-45's instead of AP-15's, forget it.)


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *texas_nightowl*
> 
> OK, so let's say I re-consider going with option 2 and move the rad to the top and run fans as intake...and, possibly, maybe, do a 2 fan push/pull...of the Corsair SP120's, CoolerMaster JetFlo 120, or Acasa Apache/Rosewill HyperBorea, which do best at both push/pull AND are OK being mounted horizontally? I'd add NoiseBlocker e-loops to the list but apparently they aren't great for pull. (Also, are there any 140's that can be used even though the rad is for a 120?)
> 
> I am presuming I would want to leave the pump plugged into a non-PWM header (PWR_FAN on my board I believe) and the fans into a PWM (CPU_FAN) header.
> 
> (And before anyone says Gentle Typhoons...as they are not easily available anymore, even the AP-45's instead of AP-15's, forget it.)


First of make sure you are using a filter for your intake fans. I would not think you could mount 140mm fans to a 120mm rad, but there could be some type of adapter on the market you could buy for them to fit. I do know the Corsair fans are super loud when underload and you might want to replace those somewhere down the road. I could not stand them on my H100i and replaced them with Noctua F12s.


----------



## MCFC

I have noctua nf-f12s on my h105 and they are perfect, really don't make any sound at all and I don't even care about sound.
So happy with these.


----------



## rolldog

Well, I've been out of town for a week but was able to work on my system today to try and get it working. Ever since installing my new H100i and custom sleeved cables, my Asus Maximus VI Formula ROG MB has been giving my a Q Code 55, which means a problem with the memory. I've taken the memory out, tried 1 piece at a time, still won't boot. I unhooked my H100i completely and put the stock CPU cooler on it and it still won't boot. I just spent $200 ordering replacement memory, which hopefully will come in today, and if that doesn't work, then it's gotta be my MB. Since I took off my H100i today to replace it with the stock CPU cooler (trying to narrow down my problem), do I need to buy new thermal paste to apply to the CPU before hooking the H100i up again or is it good with what's left on it? If I need to buy more, what should I buy? Also, when I disconnected the H100i today, I noticed a port on the side where the Corsair Link cable hooks up to a USB port. I see the port in some pictures of the Quick Install Guide but nowhere does it say what this port is used for. Does anyone have any idea? Since I also have a Corsair AX1200i PSU, which came with a Corsair Link Dongle that connects the PSU into a USB port, is this a port I could use with some extra cable sold by Corsair so I can hook up both the H100i and the AX1200i in series and then use only one USB port? I also have some lights in my system, so if there's any way I can buy an extra cable or two, connect these things up together, and spare me an extra USB port, I'd like to know.

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


----------



## nick779

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCFC*
> 
> I have noctua nf-f12s on my h105 and they are perfect, really don't make any sound at all and I don't even care about sound.
> So happy with these.


Im surprised they can even push air through that rad.

After gaming on a laptop for the past 14 years Im pretty used to loud, shrill fans. My last laptop was around ~50db at 100% and didnt move much air.

Im quite happy with my Deltas at 1500rpm on intake and at 800rpm on my h105 push pull. Its nearly silent to my tastes minus the pump noise, but has quite a bit of headroom if things get hot.

Intakes are AFB1212Ms (2200rpm 5.15 mm/H20 73cfm, 3 pin voltage controlled Paid $9 each)
Rad fans are AFB1212VH (3100rpm 9.43mm/H20 103cfm, 4 pin PWM controlled Paid $17 each)

They move a ton of air, I just wish I had 2 of those insane 6200rpm sans aces ive seen floating around on YT


----------



## lawrencendlw

You guys think that the corsair fans are loud? Try having 2 x 191 CFM delta fans lol. It's lucky that I already lost most of my hearing working on the flight deck in the Navy because they are really loud. It's like having a Jet going off in my living room and believe me I know because I used to launch them lol.


----------



## mitchcook420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *texas_nightowl*
> 
> I am presuming I would want to leave the pump plugged into a non-PWM header (PWR_FAN on my board I believe) and the fans into a PWM (CPU_FAN) header.


This is the way I do it. Just make sure in the bios that everything looks right. I recommend also using a monitoring program. I use Aida64 with the desktop widget









Also, the H105 instructions say that it doesn't matter what 3 or 4pin header you choose when plugging in both the fans and pump which I think should be re written.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *texas_nightowl*
> 
> Thanks Corsair Joseph. Sorry for the late response...when it rains it pours...first dead fans, now a dying hard drive and a dead card reader. Ugh!
> 
> Anyway, I'll keep rolling with the H60. One other question though...I am going to be turning the H60 from intake to exhaust due to the position and airflow in the room now. Is it better to mount a fan so it is pushing air thru the rad to exhaust or mount the fan so it is pulling air thru the rad to exhaust?


The temperature difference between push vs pull is almost nothing.

The picture you provided showing front bottom intake and rear top exhaust is fine. Actually, that's pretty much exactly how I have used the AIO water coolers I have used (H70, H60, H100) in my 600T.

If you were to test these and record temps you would get one or two degrees c difference at most. In fact, it's been done in this thread, but would take some searching to find.

Here's some info I have:

Corsair George on general airflow

Corsair George on Radial GPU vs Blower GPU re: case airflow.

Push vs pull vs push/pull vs shrouds

From all these sources, one thing is clear. The temperature difference between any of these examples on it's own is almost negligible. Push vs pull is almost nothing. Intake vs exhaust is a few degrees, but will also affect your chipset and GPU temps. Intake will draw warm CPU air into your case, which will increase the temp of your GPU and motherboard chipset, while exhaust will draw warm case air out through your rad that is cooling your CPU. In either case, we're talking about 1-3c max.

For myself, I decided to use exhaust on my CPU rad (H100 in the top of the case) because it's water cooled and I can control it better than the air-cooled GPUs and motherboard chipset. Since I have heavy duty cooling on my CPU, I felt it prudent to allow it to be a couple of degrees warmer over allowing the interior of my case to me a couple of degrees warmer. In either case, unless you are overclocking on the bleeding edge and absolutely need to squeeze every last MHz out of your overclock, it really isn't going to make a difference one way or the other. Actually, in my case all I would have to do is reduce the overclock marginally to cool the CPU back to where it would be if I was using intake (the "more control" I was referring to earlier).

One last consideration, as someone else mentioned, is dust. Any intake on a rad will cause dust build-up. I would highly recommend using a dust filter on any intakes. For example, on my 600T case, I'm using top-exhaust on my H100, but my 200mm intake fan at the front, and another 120mm intake fan at the bottom (I modded that) both have dust filters. As a result of this, I have noticed that I just don't need to remove my rad to clean it as not enough dust gets through to worry about. Since you are using an H60, you have a great choice of filters available if you decide to use it as intake. I do open my case every six weeks for a light dusting, but even after a year, when I have inspected my rad it just didn't need to be cleaned.

Here's my worst nightmare.

Disclaimer: This can all depend on your case, how your fans are all set up, and which fans you are using. If you had poor airflow and were using exhaust-pull with poor fans, and suddenly change all your fans around so that, no only was your case airflow improved, but you get better fans, and combined them in push/pull intake and maybe add a shroud, of course all those incremental improvements in cpu temps would all add together to create _maybe_ over 5c temp improvement. But any one of these things on its own is not going to make a huge difference. The best thing to do is experiment with your own build. No one here can tell you exactly what's going to happen in your build unless they have the same build. Note though, that I think the pictures you showed are fine for your case.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> The temperature difference between push vs pull is almost nothing.
> 
> The picture you provided showing front bottom intake and rear top exhaust is fine. Actually, that's pretty much exactly how I have used the AIO water coolers I have used (H70, H60, H100) in my 600T.
> 
> If you were to test these and record temps you would get one or two degrees c difference at most. In fact, it's been done in this thread, but would take some searching to find.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some info I have:
> 
> Corsair George on general airflow
> 
> Corsair George on Radial GPU vs Blower GPU re: case airflow.
> 
> Push vs pull vs push/pull vs shrouds
> 
> From all these sources, one thing is clear. The temperature difference between any of these examples on it's own is almost negligible. Push vs pull is almost nothing. Intake vs exhaust is a few degrees, but will also affect your chipset and GPU temps. Intake will draw warm CPU air into your case, which will increase the temp of your GPU and motherboard chipset, while exhaust will draw warm case air out through your rad that is cooling your CPU. In either case, we're talking about 1-3c max.
> 
> For myself, I decided to use exhaust on my CPU rad (H100 in the top of the case) because it's water cooled and I can control it better than the air-cooled GPUs and motherboard chipset. Since I have heavy duty cooling on my CPU, I felt it prudent to allow it to be a couple of degrees warmer over allowing the interior of my case to me a couple of degrees warmer. In either case, unless you are overclocking on the bleeding edge and absolutely need to squeeze every last MHz out of your overclock, it really isn't going to make a difference one way or the other. Actually, in my case all I would have to do is reduce the overclock marginally to cool the CPU back to where it would be if I was using intake (the "more control" I was referring to earlier).
> 
> 
> *One last consideration, as someone else mentioned, is dust*. *Any intake on a rad will cause dust build-up*. I would highly recommend using a dust filter on any intakes. For example, on my 600T case, I'm using top-exhaust on my H100, but my 200mm intake fan at the front, and another 120mm intake fan at the bottom (I modded that) both have dust filters. As a result of this, I have noticed that I just don't need to remove my rad to clean it as not enough dust gets through to worry about. Since you are using an H60, you have a great choice of filters available if you decide to use it as intake. I do open my case every six weeks for a light dusting, but even after a year, when I have inspected my rad it just didn't need to be cleaned.
> 
> Here's my worst nightmare.
> 
> Disclaimer: This can all depend on your case, how your fans are all set up, and which fans you are using. If you had poor airflow and were using exhaust-pull with poor fans, and suddenly change all your fans around so that, no only was your case airflow improved, but you get better fans, and combined them in push/pull intake and maybe add a shroud, of course all those incremental improvements in cpu temps would all add together to create _maybe_ over 5c temp improvement. But any one of these things on its own is not going to make a huge difference. The best thing to do is experiment with your own build. No one here can tell you exactly what's going to happen in your build unless they have the same build. Note though, that I think the pictures you showed are fine for your case.


Merg ... as usual another excellent post







+R
Most All of the experienced guys in this thread would say the same thing ... we have experimented with all the different configurations and many different type fans (even Delta's







) ... and we all basically come up with the same results Merg explains above. The only thing Merg could have added is that the Corsair AIO's mainly find their limitation in the cooling block, radiator size and coolant flow rates ... and a possible note on how people's perception of tolerable noise varies greatly








I'm glad you didn't forget the benefit an "exhaust" type setup provides regarding dust and radiator maintenance, if like me you are in a semi-dusty environment, an intake setup requires a lot more time to keep it operating at "peak" efficiencies ...









Maybe your best part is the "Disclaimer" ... essentially *"YMMV"* ...


----------



## nick779

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawrencendlw*
> 
> You guys think that the corsair fans are loud? Try having 2 x 191 CFM delta fans lol. It's lucky that I already lost most of my hearing working on the flight deck in the Navy because they are really loud. It's like having a Jet going off in my living room and believe me I know because I used to launch them lol.


Deltas are great. I didnt go that nuts, but I could have lol


----------



## curly haired boy

gah, idle temps are creeping up into the 40s now. idle meaning i'm just web browsing, so not completely idle but still

that GC extreme needs to come faster


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Has anyone experienced a Hyrdo series leak yet?


----------



## curly haired boy

gelid gc extreme installed, AC turned up, remounted like 4 times until i was fairly satisfied i'd done it right. (soak TIM in baggie in mug of hot water for 5 minutes while cleaning old TIM off heatsink and chip, half-pea sized dot in the center, HAND-TIGHTENED screws) pretty sure that with the washer mod it's possible to bow the board so your center contact is bad while your edge contact is better, based on the previous TIM distribution. live and learn.

temps low are now 33-35, which is where they should be. i MIGHT have an air bubble in the loop, but no way to tell. keeping the rad above the pump all the time as that's the way i've installed it.

happy for now


----------



## lawrencendlw

Isn't it a pain in the ass to keep the rad above the pump since most cases have the CPU right at the top? I have to have mine as my rear exhaust in my HAF X. And that's not easy because I have 2 X 38mm thick Delta fans and 2 X 25mm thick fan spacers on the radiator so my whole radiator setup is damn near a foot thick lol. I'll take a picture and post it here in a little bit. I swear I Love it though. Every time I see it I hear that song *Computer Love by Zapp and Rodger* in my head lol.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Has anyone experienced a Hyrdo series leak yet?


There have been a few cases of leaks caused by manufacturing. In these cases, Corsair has inspected the hardware and compensated the customer as far as I know )one guy bragged that parts Corsair provided as replacements were better than the parts he had).

There were also a few cases of customers kinking the hoses on the older hydro units with the thinner, stiffer hoses. Also a couple of cases breakage where the hoses plug into the block (the barbs).

I believe the failure rat isn't anything we wouldn't expect. You run the risk of a leak no matter what type of liquid cooling system you use. At least Corsair has a good warranty (five years) and will look at failures on a case by case basis.

I have three hydro coolers in my home right now, all about three years old, and all running like champs. Where I work, any coolers I have set up for customers have never come back with any problems.

I believe the most important thing with these AIO water-coolers is the installation. If it's done right, they don't need any maintenance at all and will just work.


----------



## duganator

So my buddy gave me his old h60(running a 212 evo) but he lost the actual mounting plate that goes over the top of the contact plate for the cpu. Is there anyway to still run this without that or am I screwed? How much performance increase would an h60 give me over a 212 evo?


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duganator*
> 
> So my buddy gave me his old h60(running a 212 evo) but he lost the actual mounting plate that goes over the top of the contact plate for the cpu. Is there anyway to still run this without that or am I screwed? How much performance increase would an h60 give me over a 212 evo?


Is this what youre looking for? I would say you will get a lot better cooling over the 212 evo, but I have not run one of those CPU coolers. But I am sure someone else will chime in that has used one in the past..

http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-h60-h80-h100-universal-bracket-kit


----------



## duganator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Is this what youre looking for? I would say you will get a lot better cooling over the 212 evo, but I have not run one of those CPU coolers. But I am sure someone else will chime in that has used one in the past..
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-h60-h80-h100-universal-bracket-kit


Sweet, that is exactly what I need. So should I stick to the 212 until the bracket gets here?


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duganator*
> 
> Sweet, that is exactly what I need. So should I stick to the 212 until the bracket gets here?


I would keep running your 212 until your new parts come in. Dont want to get to impatient and overheat your cpu while waiting on your new parts to arrive


----------



## XtachiX

lets all take a moment and appreciate the mother of corsair sealed water cooling system
ah yes... the h50

still running strong after all these years keeping my i7 950 (dont judge, shizzle works well, no upgrade needed) very cool and cozy. corsair h50 is da real mvp
i just busted my rampage 3 extreme and ordered AMD FX-8350 with Gigabyte GA_990FXA-UD3 and i still have the proper stuff from h50 to fit it in the new system
it is da real mvp


----------



## lawrencendlw

Don't feel bad. My H70 is still cooling my i7-920. If it ain't broke then don't fix it right?


----------



## mAs81

I'm planning to use my H75 to cool my newly ordered i7-4790K








Anybody used corsair H series to cool a Devils Canyon chip?After a quick search in the internet , I found nothing ?
Any Corsair Rep or H series AIO cooler owner care to shed some light in this?


----------



## nick779

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> I'm planning to use my H75 to cool my newly ordered i7-4790K
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody used corsair H series to cool a Devils Canyon chip?After a quick search in the internet , I found nothing ?
> Any Corsair Rep or H series AIO cooler owner care to shed some light in this?


Well what info are you looking for?


----------



## mAs81

You know , the usual..
Idle and stress test temps and generally if it will be adequate cooling for an oc'ed 4790K.
I don't really think that there will be a problem but I was just wondering about the temperatures and if somebody had done tests with it..


----------



## mitchcook420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XtachiX*
> 
> lets all take a moment and appreciate the mother of corsair sealed water cooling system
> ah yes... the h50
> 
> still running strong after all these years keeping my i7 950 (dont judge, shizzle works well, no upgrade needed) very cool and cozy. corsair h50 is da real mvp
> i just busted my rampage 3 extreme and ordered AMD FX-8350 with Gigabyte GA_990FXA-UD3 and i still have the proper stuff from h50 to fit it in the new system
> it is da real mvp


Nice to see it has lasted for you









I am very pleased with my H105 cooling my i5


----------



## Soldier212

anyone noticed the cpu block on the hydros gets warm? lol what a waste of heat. It should be all metal casing not plastic, and looking like a bigger version of those memory coolers/heatsinks for a gpu memory, maybe even with a 80mm fan blasting at it water/air cooling hybrid? anyone done mods ?

I might get those little memory heat sinks and stick them all over the cpu block, and try and bend some round those pipes too, my case is full of slip steam 110cfm fans, what you guys think ?


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soldier212*
> 
> anyone noticed the cpu block on the hydros gets warm? lol what a waste of heat. It should be all metal casing not plastic, and looking like a bigger version of those memory coolers/heatsinks for a gpu memory, maybe even with a 80mm fan blasting at it water/air cooling hybrid? anyone done mods ?
> 
> I might get those little memory heat sinks and stick them all over the cpu block, and try and bend some round those pipes too, my case is full of slip steam 110cfm fans, what you guys think ?


the block's not going to get any warmer than, say, the backplate. sure, the majority of the heat is going into the water and from there into the air, but you're going to have residuals heating up the block, the mobo itself, the backplate, etc.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> the block's not going to get any warmer than, say, the backplate. sure, the majority of the heat is going into the water and from there into the air, but you're going to have residuals heating up the block, the mobo itself, the backplate, etc.


^ This.

Plus, the amount of liquid circulating in the loop is sufficient enough to dissipate heat from the block to keep your CPU nice and cool. Adding memory heatsinks around the CPU block will probably have no or minimal effect to the cooling block.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> ^ This.
> 
> Plus, the amount of liquid circulating in the loop is sufficient enough to dissipate heat from the block to keep your CPU nice and cool. Adding memory heatsinks around the CPU block will probably have no or minimal effect to the cooling block.


What liquid is used in the Hyrdo coolers?


----------



## SkateZilla

usually distilled coolant.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkateZilla*
> 
> usually distilled coolant.


Thanks for the info REP+


----------



## WolfFangs1381

When I had my Thermaltake Big Water 745 system running it had a half copper and acrylic cpu block. Even though there was two radiators to help dissipate the heat from the coolant,the cpu block did get pretty warm to the touch. But obviously not warm enough to melt the acrylic half of the cpu block. I did have the misfortune of the acrylic half melting enough to loosen the fittings. Hard drive died and during replacement the power connector got loose on the pump causing my cpu block to get hot enough to melt it. This happened during the installation of Windows as my system shut down automatically. Happened twice before I realized something wasn't right. Opened the case to find a computer horror. I still have the system which I've thought about ebaying as I had a new acrylic piece machined. There is nothing wrong with it. I could use it in another system but I would purchase a new cpu block I did. But I wouldn't worry about the plastic being warm on the cpu block/pump on your hydro series cooler. I'd only worry when the pump stops running.

Wolf_Fangs 1381


----------



## wanako

I've got two H80i's. My first one was on my work PC, Quartz and was so impressed by it, I decided to get it for my gaming PC, Onyx, and was then passed on to Onyx III

This one is on Quartz, cooling an Intel Xeon E3-1230v2



and this one is on Onyx III, cooling an Intel i7 4790K @ 4.7GHz


----------



## Friction

I'm currently trying to use 4 SP120 PWM Quiet Edition fans with my H100I all on one motherboard header, but with all 4 fans connected the BIOS keeps going from N/A to random RPM's. Once I remove one fan the BIOS will show a steady fluctuating RPM for those 3 fans. I've tried both the CPU Fan and CPU Opt headers, but neither of them will allow all 4 fans. I'm using the ModMyToys 4-Pin PWM Power Distribution PCB 8x Way Block (MMT-PCB-8P-44P)
I have power to all 4 fans, but I am unable to control the speed of all 4 via SpeedFan obviously because the BIOS is fluctuating so often.

Is there any header that will be able to control all 4 fans using that splitter?

Is there anyone using the same cooler and fans on a Sabertooth Z77 that can tell me how they are controlling their fans?


----------



## rotorwash

I am using a H100i on my i7 4790K... 28C idle, 68C stress with hyperthreading with fans set to quiet. When setting fans to high, BTW, very noisy with the stock fans, I get about a 2-3C decrease of temps. I just leave it on quiet and things run fine. I stressed tested with AIDA64. I monitor with Real Temp and Core Temp and HWMonitor. Voltage goes to about 1.2.17 at full stress with 8 threads of execution. This with my MB using the stock settings which sets a basic OC to 4.4Ghz. Haven't starting OC'ing yet


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotorwash*
> 
> I am using a H100i on my i7 4790K... 28C idle, 68C stress with hyperthreading with fans set to quiet. When setting fans to high, BTW, very noisy with the stock fans, I get about a 2-3C decrease of temps. I just leave it on quiet and things run fine. I stressed tested with AIDA64. I monitor with Real Temp and Core Temp and HWMonitor. Voltage goes to about 1.2.17 at full stress with 8 threads of execution. This with my MB using the stock settings which sets a basic OC to 4.4Ghz. Haven't starting OC'ing yet


Interesting how temps only drop 2-3C with full fan speed. Not worth the fan noise for that kind of temp drop.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> I'm currently trying to use 4 SP120 PWM Quiet Edition fans with my H100I all on one motherboard header, but with all 4 fans connected the BIOS keeps going from N/A to random RPM's. Once I remove one fan the BIOS will show a steady fluctuating RPM for those 3 fans. I've tried both the CPU Fan and CPU Opt headers, but neither of them will allow all 4 fans. I'm using the ModMyToys 4-Pin PWM Power Distribution PCB 8x Way Block (MMT-PCB-8P-44P)
> I have power to all 4 fans, but I am unable to control the speed of all 4 via SpeedFan obviously because the BIOS is fluctuating so often.
> 
> Is there any header that will be able to control all 4 fans using that splitter?
> 
> Is there anyone using the same cooler and fans on a Sabertooth Z77 that can tell me how they are controlling their fans?


The ModMyToys PCBs unfortunately have the rpm signal from every fan active which will make the rpm readings by any controller or mobo erratic at best. The motherboard is only capable of reading the rpm signal of one fan. If multiple fans report on the tach signal wire together they corrupt the signal and causes issues exactly like you describe.

Here's how people have been modding their 3 pin ModMyToys PCBs so that only the first fan rpm signal is live so that their fan controller will get an accurate rpm reading:





The rpm signal trace on your 4 pin PWM PCB may not be as easy to identify and mod that way seeing as all of your fan headers are not lined up in a straight line down the PCB like they are with that 3 pin one I posted. If that's the case it may just be easier to snip the rpm pin from all but one header on the PCB like I did here or cut the rpm signal wire or remove the rpm signal pin from all but one of your fan's connectors.


----------



## rotorwash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Interesting how temps only drop 2-3C with full fan speed. Not worth the fan noise for that kind of temp drop.


That's why I just keep it in quiet mode. Just a gentle air whirr under my desk not matter what (rendering). Hope to get pictures up soon.


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The ModMyToys PCBs unfortunately have the rpm signal from every fan active which will make the rpm readings by any controller or mobo erratic at best. The motherboard is only capable of reading the rpm signal of one fan. If multiple fans report on the tach signal wire together they corrupt the signal and causes issues exactly like you describe.
> 
> Here's how people have been modding their 3 pin ModMyToys PCBs so that only the first fan rpm signal is live so that their fan controller will get an accurate rpm reading:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rpm signal trace on your 4 pin PWM PCB may not be as easy to identify and mod that way seeing as all of your fan headers are not lined up in a straight line down the PCB like they are with that 3 pin one I posted. If that's the case it may just be easier to snip the rpm pin from all but one header on the PCB like I did here or cut the rpm signal wire or remove the rpm signal pin from all but one of your fan's connectors.


Thanks for that very detailed reply, but instead of modding the PCB what about if I bought a Swiftech 8-Way PWM Cable Splitter?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> Thanks for that very detailed reply, but instead of modding the PCB what about if I bought a Swiftech 8-Way PWM Cable Splitter?


That would also work. Unlike most other fan splitter PCBs Swiftech only has the fan tach signal wire going to one fan like it should.


----------



## Friction

I'll order 1 of those and use this ModMyToys one for my other fans.

Thanks for your help.


----------



## blackhole2013

Will soon have a Corsair water pump in all my three computers I have an H50 an H80 and tomorrow I will Have an H90 .. I love them It keeps my computers real cool only one problem is in my new haswell computer my 12v runs at 12.2v which makes both H50 buzz and H80 grind it drives me crazy I just hope my New H90s pump wont have issues with running 12.2v ....


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackhole2013*
> 
> Will soon have a Corsair water pump in all my three computers I have an H50 an H80 and tomorrow I will Have an H90 .. I love them It keeps my computers real cool only one problem is in my new haswell computer my 12v runs at 12.2v which makes both H50 buzz and H80 grind it drives me crazy I just hope my New H90s pump wont have issues with running 12.2v ....


i think the question is why is your PSU outputting 12.2


----------



## nick779

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> You know , the usual..
> Idle and stress test temps and generally if it will be adequate cooling for an oc'ed 4790K.
> I don't really think that there will be a problem but I was just wondering about the temperatures and if somebody had done tests with it..


Well, from wha
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackhole2013*
> 
> Will soon have a Corsair water pump in all my three computers I have an H50 an H80 and tomorrow I will Have an H90 .. I love them It keeps my computers real cool only one problem is in my new haswell computer my 12v runs at 12.2v which makes both H50 buzz and H80 grind it drives me crazy I just hope my New H90s pump wont have issues with running 12.2v ....


just get a cheap, 2-3 pin fan extension cable and wire a 1n4007 diode on the positive wire. It will cause a ~.2-.4v drop in the line. People have been getting rid of grinding using that mod for a while now.


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nick779*
> 
> Well, from wha


???
You must have edited your post.









I now have in my possession the 4790K so I'll see how the H75 performs in my system..
I just wanted to have some temps and benchmarks for reference..
Too bad I'm working and won't have time to change the CPU until the weekend..


----------



## nick779

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> ???
> You must have edited your post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now have in my possession the 4790K so I'll see how the H75 performs in my system..
> I just wanted to have some temps and benchmarks for reference..
> Too bad I'm working and won't have time to change the CPU until the weekend..


I meant to say that most people are seeing a ~7-13C drop at similar overclocks with a much more uniform temp on the cores and the package temp being more accurate for the entire cpu temp


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nick779*
> 
> I meant to say that most people are seeing a ~7-13C drop at similar overclocks with a much more uniform temp on the cores and the package temp being more accurate for the entire cpu temp


I see...
Well I guess I'll keep an eye on it..
I still have to install the chip and fix some other things in my case before I start overclocking..
I'll post my temps here when I'm ready.
Thanks for your input


----------



## Hawxie

Hi, I was wondering if its safe to undervolt the H70 pump?


----------



## blackhole2013

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> i think the question is why is your PSU outputting 12.2


Good question why ? I have a 1300w rosewell lightning one rail ..


----------



## blackhole2013

OOP messed this post up sorry


----------



## blackhole2013

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nick779*
> 
> Well, from wha
> 
> just get a cheap, 2-3 pin fan extension cable and wire a 1n4007 diode on the positive wire. It will cause a ~.2-.4v drop in the line. People have been getting rid of grinding using that mod for a while now.


Its ok my New sealed in box H90 Newegg refurbish for 45 dollars which they do to get rid of stock and give you a new one and call it refurb and only get 30 day manufacture warranty instead of full warranty does not make any buzzing sound finally my pc Is quiet ... YES YES YES


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> Hi, I was wondering if its safe to undervolt the H70 pump?


Not something that we would recommend, because the H70's pump is spec'd to run at 12v ATX spec for optimal performance. That said, we've seen people in the past dropped the voltage having little or no effect to the CPU temp at all. But you can only lower it to a certain extent, you drop it too low, you will see an increase on your CPU temp.


----------



## kolo7127

So I was thinking about doing something like this to the other side of the 250d to mount an H105 in there. However I'm wondering if the exterior panel grill will have a negative effect on static pressure and cooling performance. Not only because it blocks some air but also creates an open space between the radiator and the fans. Alternatively I could cut out the grill on the panel but there would still be that open space between the radiators and the fans. What thoughts does anyone have about this idea? I know an H100i will fit, but i dont care much for the pump style, and I like the idea of the thicker radiator.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimmystempura*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## curly haired boy

more space between rad and fans is usually a good thing, helps reduce dead zones and keeps things quieter.

i'd cut out the grill and go for it


----------



## kolo7127

I know creating more space with a shroud can help, but the shroud doesn't allow the air to leak out. The shroud would still direct all of the air through the radiator. In this scenario my fear is that some air would bounce off of the radiator and out, decreasing performance. I'm no expert in aerodynamics though.


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Not something that we would recommend, because the H70's pump is spec'd to run at 12v ATX spec for optimal performance. That said, we've seen people in the past dropped the voltage having little or no effect to the CPU temp at all. But you can only lower it to a certain extent, you drop it too low, you will see an increase on your CPU temp.


The temps have increased ever so slighty, by dropping it from 12v to around 5-6v.
And the pump doesn't seem to be complaining either, but thanks for clarifying







.


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kolo7127*
> 
> I know creating more space with a shroud can help, but the shroud doesn't allow the air to leak out. The shroud would still direct all of the air through the radiator. In this scenario my fear is that some air would bounce off of the radiator and out, decreasing performance. I'm no expert in aerodynamics though.


perhaps get some thin black foam rubber and fill any gaps?


----------



## blackhole2013

Corsair Joesph I got my H90 as refurbished what warranty do you guys give on it ...


----------



## kolo7127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> perhaps get some thin black foam rubber and fill any gaps?


Duh! excellent idea! Now can I bring myself to cutting apart the side panel? Think I could just purchase an extra one from corsair?


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackhole2013*
> 
> Corsair Joesph I got my H90 as refurbished what warranty do you guys give on it ...


You've got a year warranty from us


----------



## blackhole2013

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> You've got a year warranty from us


can you tell me why my H90 came sealed with just the barcode cut out and changed did I get a brand new H90 from newegg and they just call it refurb .. cause it dont look refurbed to me


----------



## dante`afk

does the h110/h110i fit on a evga 780ti acx sc? with kraken g10?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> I'm currently trying to use 4 SP120 PWM Quiet Edition fans with my H100I all on one motherboard header, but with all 4 fans connected the BIOS keeps going from N/A to random RPM's. Once I remove one fan the BIOS will show a steady fluctuating RPM for those 3 fans. I've tried both the CPU Fan and CPU Opt headers, but neither of them will allow all 4 fans. I'm using the ModMyToys 4-Pin PWM Power Distribution PCB 8x Way Block (MMT-PCB-8P-44P)
> I have power to all 4 fans, but I am unable to control the speed of all 4 via SpeedFan obviously because the BIOS is fluctuating so often.
> 
> Is there any header that will be able to control all 4 fans using that splitter?
> 
> Is there anyone using the same cooler and fans on a Sabertooth Z77 that can tell me how they are controlling their fans?


Unfortunately we are not privy to the internals of that splitter.

Here are a couple of things to know about PWM splitters.

1. The Tac signal (this is the signal from the fans that tells the system how fast the fans are turning) should only be connected to one fan. If more than one fan Tac signal is connected, then the system cannot differentiate between them, and has no way of telling how fast your fans are going. Because of this, when you look at PWM splitters that are just cables (no circuit board), you will see all the fans but one are getting 3-wires, while one gets all four wires. This fan is the one that is reporting RPM to the system (you could refer to it as the "master fan"). The system will control all the fans on the splitter based on how this fan is reporting its RPMs. The disadvantage of this is that, if you have a faulty fan and it's not the master fan, then the system will have no way of knowing it since the other fans do not report their RPM.

2. The PWM signal from the computer can get loaded down. Every PWM fan you connect adds load to the PWM signal. So, after so many fans are connected, the PWN signal could be so loaded down that it's no longer useful for controlling anything. I do not know what number of fans the average PWM signal can handle, however I have successfully connected four fans using a regular cable PWM splitter, so four should be no problem for the splitter you're using.

You may have a defective splitter. As I said, we don't know what they are doing inside that splitter, so they could have a defective component. Also, I have seen PWM splitters that were designed incorrectly, and were reporting the RPM of every fan instead of just the master fan. I have never heard of a system board that can correctly interpret four Tac signals all added together and not in sync, all connected to one fan header.

******OK, I see @Unicr0nhunter has experience with the splitter you were using, and that it has the exact design defect I mentioned above. Personally, if I was you I would have just done the mod.
*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackhole2013*
> 
> Its ok my New sealed in box H90 Newegg refurbish for 45 dollars which they do to get rid of stock and give you a new one and call it refurb and only get 30 day manufacture warranty instead of full warranty does not make any buzzing sound finally my pc Is quiet ... YES YES YES


FYI you can use the edit button to edit your posts so you don't leave multiple posts in a row.


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Unfortunately we are not privy to the internals of that splitter.
> 
> Here are a couple of things to know about PWM splitters.
> 
> 1. The Tac signal (this is the signal from the fans that tells the system how fast the fans are turning) should only be connected to one fan. If more than one fan Tac signal is connected, then the system cannot differentiate between them, and has no way of telling how fast your fans are going. Because of this, when you look at PWM splitters that are just cables (no circuit board), you will see all the fans but one are getting 3-wires, while one gets all four wires. This fan is the one that is reporting RPM to the system (you could refer to it as the "master fan"). The system will control all the fans on the splitter based on how this fan is reporting its RPMs. The disadvantage of this is that, if you have a faulty fan and it's not the master fan, then the system will have no way of knowing it since the other fans do not report their RPM.
> 
> 2. The PWM signal from the computer can get loaded down. Every PWM fan you connect adds load to the PWM signal. So, after so many fans are connected, the PWN signal could be so loaded down that it's no longer useful for controlling anything. I do not know what number of fans the average PWM signal can handle, however I have successfully connected four fans using a regular cable PWM splitter, so four should be no problem for the splitter you're using.
> 
> You may have a defective splitter. As I said, we don't know what they are doing inside that splitter, so they could have a defective component. Also, I have seen PWM splitters that were designed incorrectly, and were reporting the RPM of every fan instead of just the master fan. I have never heard of a system board that can correctly interpret four Tac signals all added together and not in sync, all connected to one fan header.
> 
> ******OK, I see @Unicr0nhunter has experience with the splitter you were using, and that it has the exact design defect I mentioned above. Personally, if I was you I would have just done the mod.*


I was aware of the PWM splitter functionality, but considering a guy on YouTube that I subscribe to uses them I didn't think there would be a problem.

I'm not comfortable modding electronics, hence why I am just going to buy the Swiftech one instead.


----------



## MarcosPWnsNubs

Does anyone else not have their temps for HDDs not show up in link? Or is that normal?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarcosPWnsNubs*
> 
> Does anyone else not have their temps for HDDs not show up in link? Or is that normal?


Does your Link happen to have another set of the temps for the HDDs? Mine seems to put duplicates in Link from time to time....


----------



## MarcosPWnsNubs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Does your Link happen to have another set of the temps for the HDDs? Mine seems to put duplicates in Link from time to time....


Yeah the Seagate one is doubled actually I didn't notice, that's the only one though.


----------



## blackhole2013

Heads up on newegg.com a H80i new is on sale for 75 dollars and free shipping with promo code EMCPBWE44 till 8/21


----------



## rotorwash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarcosPWnsNubs*
> 
> Does anyone else not have their temps for HDDs not show up in link? Or is that normal?


Do not have doubled temps but some of my sensors (temp, fan speed, etc) come and go. There are intermittent. I spoke to support about my problems and they suggested that I downgrade my software to 2.5x from 2.6x. This fixed some problems but created others. Note how some of the temps are missing (sorry about the lousy pic).

The link software is not ready for prime time in my opinion. It is not reliable so I use other means to monitor my voltages, fan speed, and temperatures.


----------



## juneau78

is it possible for an AIO to reduce of amount of its liquid?
because yesterday when i cleaned up my H100 i could hear the liquid when i shake the rad. and as i remember when i first bought it 2 years ago there is no sound whatsoever when i shake the rad. i also notice now that my full load temp increase by 2-3 degrees.

is there any way i could refill it?
would distilled water be enough?


----------



## killer121

I have been running my h60 for around a year and a half
After removing my h60 to do some cleaning, I spotted this



The hose fitting are showing some sign of aging and the rubber are splitting apart.
All four fitting are showing similar signs, but I didnt see any leaking while running the pump and the tubing itself seems alright.
Is it still safe to use? or should I just RMA it?


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juneau78*
> 
> is it possible for an AIO to reduce of amount of its liquid?
> because yesterday when i cleaned up my H100 i could hear the liquid when i shake the rad. and as i remember when i first bought it 2 years ago there is no sound whatsoever when i shake the rad. i also notice now that my full load temp increase by 2-3 degrees.
> 
> is there any way i could refill it?
> would distilled water would be enough?


Yes, the liquid inside those AIO coolers will evaporate over a period of time.. but at a very slow rate, thus it will take many years before the liquid completely dries out. I don't think that your CPU temp being couple of degrees higher than usual has something to do with the liquid being "less" from the first time you used the cooler. It might have been your room temp or maybe dust build up in the radiator. I would just check those just to be sure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killer121*
> 
> I have been running my h60 for around a year and a half
> After removing my h60 to do some cleaning, I spotted this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hose fitting are showing some sign of aging and the rubber are splitting apart.
> All four fitting are showing similar signs, but I didnt see any leaking while running the pump and the tubing itself seems alright.
> Is it still safe to use? or should I just RMA it?


That's totally fine, nothing to be concerned about. Those cracks will not affect your cooler's performance nor its integrity. Those caps are simply to cover the part where the tube is connected to the pump, specifically made for aesthetics.


----------



## kolo7127

Whats the status on a new batch of hydro coolers? Like a thinner radiator for the H105 or an H105i with that asetek pump? Whats the hydro series of the future going to bring?


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kolo7127*
> 
> Whats the status on a new batch of hydro coolers? Like a thinner radiator for the H105 or an H105i with that asetek pump? Whats the hydro series of the future going to bring?


I wish I have answer for you, unfortunately, I don't. Plus, we can't really talk about products that are unannounced.


----------



## kolo7127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> I wish I have answer for you, unfortunately, I don't. Plus, we can't really talk about products that are unannounced.


I figured as much just wondering if there was anything in the works that could be talked about. Maybe even a rough date of when you guys were planning an announcement, or some sort of teaser about the future of the Corsair AIO coolers.

Maybe you can answer about planned dates for the HG10 for nVidia Cards? Though I guess that isn't a hydro product but more of an accessory.


----------



## nick779

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kolo7127*
> 
> Whats the status on a new batch of hydro coolers? Like a thinner radiator for the H105 or an H105i with that asetek pump? Whats the hydro series of the future going to bring?


Isnt the whole point of the H105 to have a thicker rad than a h100?


----------



## kolo7127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nick779*
> 
> Isnt the whole point of the H105 to have a thicker rad than a h100?


But the H105 doesnt fit in my 250D. Call it what you want, call it purple, call it H100 v2, I dont care what its called. My point is a 240mm rad H100/H100i size with the H75/H105 style pump. IMO the round one looks better than the square ones on the H100/H100i. It also has better mounting for those unfortunate fans of AMD.


----------



## dante`afk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> does the h110/h110i fit on a evga 780ti acx sc? with kraken g10?


----------



## mAs81

According to the specifications,yes it does
http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/138-kraken-g10-gpu-bracket.html


----------



## dante`afk

yea, but does the corsair h110 fit on a GPU? or only CPU?


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> yea, but does the corsair h110 fit on a GPU? or only CPU?


If you press the specification button on the link I gave you , it clearly says that it does..
More info can be found in OCNs official owners club
http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> yea, but does the corsair h110 fit on a GPU? or only CPU?


AIO coolers like the H110 are meant for cooling just the CPU but you can use it on a GPU instead with the help of the NZXT Kraken G10 or Corsair HG10.

edit: haha ninja'd by mAs81


----------



## aberrero

I set up an H90 on my i5 4690K yesterday and I am getting quite high temps. I am using the 250Ds front intake fan rather than the supplied fan, but the temps are high even running at max speed. Does this look like poor contact between the CPU and the waterblock or should I go back to the stock fan (I figured I'd ask before taking my computer apart again after spending all day yesterday putting it together)?

VCore is 1.225 (Asus auto overclock)


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aberrero*
> 
> I set up an H90 on my i5 4690K yesterday and I am getting quite high temps. I am using the 250Ds front intake fan rather than the supplied fan, but the temps are high even running at max speed. Does this look like poor contact between the CPU and the waterblock or should I go back to the stock fan (I figured I'd ask before taking my computer apart again after spending all day yesterday putting it together)?
> 
> VCore is 1.225 (Asus auto overclock)


Those temps dont seem too high to me, especially using OCCT. I can stress using that same software with my H100i on my 4770k and get into the 70c's no problem. Stressing will always yield high temps, heavy gaming the CPU doesnt go above 60c. I am OC'd 4.2 @ 1.23v, I dont think you have anything to worry about.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aberrero*
> 
> I set up an H90 on my i5 4690K yesterday and I am getting quite high temps. I am using the 250Ds front intake fan rather than the supplied fan, but the temps are high even running at max speed. Does this look like poor contact between the CPU and the waterblock or should I go back to the stock fan (I figured I'd ask before taking my computer apart again after spending all day yesterday putting it together)?
> 
> VCore is 1.225 (Asus auto overclock)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Drockin is right, those temps looks fine to me, nothing out of the ordinary. One thing I'd try though is change the fan to the one that came with your cooler, as the stock fan has a better static pressure which is ideal when you are cooling a radiator.


----------



## nick779

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aberrero*
> 
> I set up an H90 on my i5 4690K yesterday and I am getting quite high temps. I am using the 250Ds front intake fan rather than the supplied fan, but the temps are high even running at max speed. Does this look like poor contact between the CPU and the waterblock or should I go back to the stock fan (I figured I'd ask before taking my computer apart again after spending all day yesterday putting it together)?
> 
> VCore is 1.225 (Asus auto overclock)


At 4.5ghz/1.31vcore my 4670k/H105 hits 90c in about 7 minutes on occt small data set. Now granted ill blame the cpu for that because the cpu isnt able to push the heat to the waterblock, and thats fairly obvious when the radiator hardly gets warm with the fans at 100%

My cpu needs delidded badly, but I wont risk that...


----------



## aberrero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Drockin is right, those temps looks fine to me, nothing out of the ordinary. One thing I'd try though is change the fan to the one that came with your cooler, as the stock fan has a better static pressure which is ideal when you are cooling a radiator.


Thanks guys. I was actually hitting above 85 last night but I rearranged some other fans in my case to eliminate positive pressure and that really helped increase the airflow from my H90, which is why the temps above were more reasonable.

I am running at 1.4v and 4.7GHz now and it is staying under 90, which is nice. I'm going to go back to the stock fan though, at least for a bit, to try and test out ~1.55v.

nick, I didn't realize the pre-Devil's Canyon chips ran so hot. I can't imagine sticking my brand new CPU in a vice and hitting it with a hammer though...

It's kind of insane that you can cool down a 300W TDP video card to under 50C using a single 120mm AIO, but a ~150W CPU can't stay under 100C. Bring back unlidded CPUs.


----------



## curly haired boy

1.4 and 1.55?


----------



## aberrero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> 1.4 and 1.55?


lol. I'm used to AMD voltages so they don't seem out of the ordinary for me.

1.55v is just for fun though. I want to see if I can get it stable at 4.8GHz. It was going fine at 1.52 for a couple minutes so I think stable operation is attainable _if I push it just a little bit further._


----------



## nick779

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aberrero*
> 
> lol. I'm used to AMD voltages so they don't seem out of the ordinary for me.
> 
> 1.55v is just for fun though. I want to see if I can get it stable at 4.8GHz. It was going fine at 1.52 for a couple minutes so I think stable operation is attainable _if I push it just a little bit further._


There are a few people who have had serious degradation issues with ivy bridge and haswell chips running over 1.4v. were talking putting a 3570k/4670k on water with 1.4+v and it not being stable at stock speeds within a year or so


----------



## curly haired boy

i've gotten to 1.36 for a few minutes stress testing my 4770 at 4.6, but i'm really not comfortable at much above 1.25. i'm right now at 4.2 and 1.15. i kinda want this chip to last


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aberrero*
> 
> lol. I'm used to AMD voltages so they don't seem out of the ordinary for me.
> 
> 1.55v is just for fun though. I want to see if I can get it stable at 4.8GHz. It was going fine at 1.52 for a couple minutes so I think stable operation is attainable _if I push it just a little bit further._


You might want to do a little more research. IIRC I seem to recall seeing mentioned a couple hundred times here on OCN and elsewhere that for Intel a 1.4v vcore should be considered a maximum and anything over it probably will damage / shorten the lifespan of the chip, even if it's just temporary. It's not the heat that kills. It's the current.

Hope you bought Intel's tuning plan for that chip.


----------



## aberrero

Thanks, I guess since I've never had a good cooling setup before I never managed to get the voltage high enough up that it would be harmful.


----------



## DiaSin

Tip for installing top-mount radiators in pull.... Attach the fans to the top of the case by two opposing corners with normal short fan screws. That will hold the fans in place while you orient the radiator and attach it with the long screws, then you just take out the short screws and put the rest of the long screws in their place.

Thats how I got mine in anyway.


----------



## pLuhhmm

the h110 was an unholy nightmare to install. how the hell are you suppose to keep the fans from falling or the screws while matching the radiator up???????????????????????????? for whatever reason too, both my fans don't have a top left screw because they were the only ones that refused to line up, even tho it's straight and 6/8 had no issues screwing in.

running 4.8Ghz @ 1.3v. Temps at idle right now are 36c, high of 39c with no exhaust fan in the back and semi intake fans (the 2 intakes are 1200 RPM at the inside part of the HDD cage). Haven't stressed it yet. Oddly enough when I tried running 5Ghz again it didn't work at 1.3v like it did when I first got the CPU. Oh well.

Rad fans are 140mm 1500RPM (stock h110 fans) + 2 "intake" 120mm 1200RPM (stock c70 fans). Going to get some high performance fans for intake and exhaust. Like hell I'm ever replacing the stock h110s. Took so long to install that and it wasn't easy like Linus showed, lol... Why the hell don't they make the screws go through the entire radiator????????????????????????????????

also, for whatever reason my corsair h110 logo is off.


----------



## DrockinWV

I actually turned my whole rig upside down and let some of it hang of the edge of my counter in order to get my screws through the fans and into the rad.... Definitely a total nightmare trying to set up as push intake for the top mount...


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> the h110 was an unholy nightmare to install. how the hell are you suppose to keep the fans from falling or the screws while matching the radiator up???????????????????????????? for whatever reason too, both my fans don't have a top left screw because they were the only ones that refused to line up, even tho it's straight and 6/8 had no issues screwing in.
> 
> running 4.8Ghz @ 1.3v. Temps at idle right now are 36c, high of 39c with no exhaust fan in the back and semi intake fans (the 2 intakes are 1200 RPM at the inside part of the HDD cage). Haven't stressed it yet. Oddly enough when I tried running 5Ghz again it didn't work at 1.3v like it did when I first got the CPU. Oh well.
> 
> Rad fans are 140mm 1500RPM (stock h110 fans) + 2 "intake" 120mm 1200RPM (stock c70 fans). Going to get some high performance fans for intake and exhaust. Like hell I'm ever replacing the stock h110s. Took so long to install that and it wasn't easy like Linus showed, lol... Why the hell don't they make the screws go through the entire radiator????????????????????????????????
> 
> also, for whatever reason my corsair h110 logo is off.


The fan problem sounds like a case specific problem, and for that logo that is off, turn the Pump/block unit untill it fits. The mount is rotatable, just make sure it hits the "taps and gaps" to make it lock in place once rotated to preferred position.


----------



## pLuhhmm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> the h110 was an unholy nightmare to install. how the hell are you suppose to keep the fans from falling or the screws while matching the radiator up???????????????????????????? for whatever reason too, both my fans don't have a top left screw because they were the only ones that refused to line up, even tho it's straight and 6/8 had no issues screwing in.
> 
> running 4.8Ghz @ 1.3v. Temps at idle right now are 36c, high of 39c with no exhaust fan in the back and semi intake fans (the 2 intakes are 1200 RPM at the inside part of the HDD cage). Haven't stressed it yet. Oddly enough when I tried running 5Ghz again it didn't work at 1.3v like it did when I first got the CPU. Oh well.
> 
> Rad fans are 140mm 1500RPM (stock h110 fans) + 2 "intake" 120mm 1200RPM (stock c70 fans). Going to get some high performance fans for intake and exhaust. Like hell I'm ever replacing the stock h110s. Took so long to install that and it wasn't easy like Linus showed, lol... Why the hell don't they make the screws go through the entire radiator????????????????????????????????
> 
> also, for whatever reason my corsair h110 logo is off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fan problem sounds like a case specific problem, and for that logo that is off, turn the Pump/block unit untill it fits. The mount is rotatable, just make sure it hits the "taps and gaps" to make it lock in place once rotated to preferred position.
Click to expand...

The case is a C70. Probably the most compatible case there is for it lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> I actually turned my whole rig upside down and let some of it hang of the edge of my counter in order to get my screws through the fans and into the rad.... Definitely a total nightmare trying to set up as push intake for the top mount...


i put it on it's side like Linus did in his how to install video. I knew how to install it, but jesus was it difficult. either the fans or screws want to fall out...


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> The case is a C70. Probably the most compatible case there is for it lol.
> i put it on it's side like Linus did in his how to install video. I knew how to install it, but jesus was it difficult. either the fans or screws want to fall out...


Refer to my post farther up the page. With that method you don't even need to lay the case down.

Edit: To add to that.. for push-pull attach the lower fan(s) to the radiator before you put it in the system.


----------



## pLuhhmm

Woo. What an upgrade from my H60 p/p setup.

Only went to a max of 71c in Firestrike with the 3770k OC to 4.8Ghz @ 1.275v



gonna run prime now.

did 30 mins of prime. had to up voltage to 1.295. spiked to 100c once avg max was about 93c. stable enough for me :X seems to be idling at about 30c. this is without an exhaust and bad intake setup.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> Woo. What an upgrade from my H60 p/p setup.
> 
> Only went to a max of 71c in Firestrike with the 3770k OC to 3.8Ghz @ 1.275v
> 
> 
> 
> gonna run prime now.
> 
> did 30 mins of prime. had to up voltage to 1.295. spiked to 100c once avg max was about 93c. stable enough for me :X seems to be idling at about 30c. this is without an exhaust and bad intake setup.


Wait.. That radiator is mounted as an intake? Why? Your setup confuses me. The C70 comes with 2 front intakes and a rear exhaust. The radiator should act as another pair of exhausts in the top. I moved the fans off of the hard drive cages and into the front panel, and removed one of the cages for increased airflow and aesthetics.

Image for reference...


Also.. that voltage is awfully high. You should be able to hit 3.8ghz at, or at least very near, stock voltage. I only run 1.28v to get 4.5ghz stable on my 3570k. I USED to have 4.6ghz stable at that voltage, not quite sure why it isn't anymore.

By the way.. did you see my last post, about your fan mounting issue?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> I actually turned my whole rig upside down and let some of it hang of the edge of my counter in order to get my screws through the fans and into the rad.... Definitely a total nightmare trying to set up as push intake for the top mount...


Refer to my other posts on this page.


----------



## pLuhhmm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> Woo. What an upgrade from my H60 p/p setup.
> 
> Only went to a max of 71c in Firestrike with the 3770k OC to 3.8Ghz @ 1.275v
> 
> 
> 
> gonna run prime now.
> 
> did 30 mins of prime. had to up voltage to 1.295. spiked to 100c once avg max was about 93c. stable enough for me :X seems to be idling at about 30c. this is without an exhaust and bad intake setup.
> 
> 
> 
> Wait.. That radiator is mounted as an intake? Why?
> 
> Also.. that voltage is awfully high. You should be able to hit 3.8ghz at, or at least very near, stock voltage. I only run 1.28v to get 4.5ghz stable on my 3570k.
> 
> By the way.. did you see my last post, about your fan mounting issue?
Click to expand...

Erm, the fans for the radiator are exhaust. I meant the case's back fan mount is empty. The back case exhaust.

As for the speed it was a typo :X. 4.8Ghz. The CPU must have degraded a bit since 2 years ago when I got it. Was decently stable at 5Ghz @ 1.3v. I could probably get 5Ghz stable at 1.35v, but meh.

I saw your post too, but everything seems fine and it's really sturdy. I'm getting mid 20 to 30c at idle with an ambient around 73~75 (fan controller says ambient is 24.5C). Once my fans get here tomorrow for my intake and exhaust for the case I'll see if push/pull is possible. Most people can't seem to fit the fans, but we'll see with the Extreme4.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> Erm, the fans for the radiator are exhaust. I meant the case's back fan mount is empty. The back case exhaust.
> 
> As for the speed it was a typo :X. 4.8Ghz. The CPU must have degraded a bit since 2 years ago when I got it. Was decently stable at 5Ghz @ 1.3v. I could probably get 5Ghz stable at 1.35v, but meh.
> 
> I saw your post too, but everything seems fine and it's really sturdy. I'm getting mid 20 to 30c at idle with an ambient around 73~75 (fan controller says ambient is 24.5C). Once my fans get here tomorrow for my intake and exhaust for the case I'll see if push/pull is possible. Most people can't seem to fit the fans, but we'll see with the Extreme4.


See, this is why I read over my posts twice before I hit submit.









Anyway.. you MIGHT be able to pull it off. My H80i in push-pull just barely overlaps the ram slots, and it is a much thicker radiator than yours. I used non-standard mounting holes to move it that extra half inch away from the mobo to make it clear the ram. Granted my ram doesn't have tall heatsinks, being Ballistix Sport.


----------



## pLuhhmm

Okay, so I was running some overclocks on my GPU (seems stable at +40Mhz/800 memory) and I heard this odd noise. Turned all my fans off using my controller and my GPU fans to their lowest. 99.9% sure it's coming from my H110. Any ideas? Initial google results seem to suggest maybe an air pocket? But it's hard to know if their sound is the same. Here's a video (sorry for the breathing, sinuses are killing me lately).

link if embedded doesn't work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YPg-xP8MaoA&feature=youtu.be


----------



## curly haired boy

sounds like an air pocket to me


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> Okay, so I was running some overclocks on my GPU (seems stable at +40Mhz/800 memory) and I heard this odd noise. Turned all my fans off using my controller and my GPU fans to their lowest. 99.9% sure it's coming from my H110. Any ideas? Initial google results seem to suggest maybe an air pocket? But it's hard to know if their sound is the same. Here's a video (sorry for the breathing, sinuses are killing me lately).
> 
> link if embedded doesn't work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YPg-xP8MaoA&feature=youtu.be


Could be air. I've heard a swimming pool pump make a similar (but much louder) sound when it was sucking air. One thing is for sure.. It's not a GOOD sound.

Side note.. The dust in that system probably isn't helping your sinuses. I'm surprised there is that much with the quality of the filters on that case.


----------



## pLuhhmm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> Okay, so I was running some overclocks on my GPU (seems stable at +40Mhz/800 memory) and I heard this odd noise. Turned all my fans off using my controller and my GPU fans to their lowest. 99.9% sure it's coming from my H110. Any ideas? Initial google results seem to suggest maybe an air pocket? But it's hard to know if their sound is the same. Here's a video (sorry for the breathing, sinuses are killing me lately).
> 
> link if embedded doesn't work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YPg-xP8MaoA&feature=youtu.be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could be air. I've heard a swimming pool pump make a similar (but much louder) sound when it was sucking air. One thing is for sure.. It's not a GOOD sound.
> 
> Side note.. The dust in that system probably isn't helping your sinuses. I'm surprised there is that much with the quality of the filters on that case.
Click to expand...

these filters dont do jack. i cant even clean them because they're not dusty at all. i have no clue... i have that powered blower that i use every few months, but it's not where i'm at right now, so...


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> these filters dont do jack. i cant even clean them because they're not dusty at all. i have no clue... i have that powered blower that i use every few months, but it's not where i'm at right now, so...


Really? Those filters are working amazingly for me. See how clean my system is in the pics I have posted? I have not cleaned the inside of this case since my initial build nearly a year ago.


----------



## blackhole2013

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Really? Those filters are working amazingly for me. See how clean my system is in the pics I have posted? I have not cleaned the inside of this case since my initial build nearly a year ago.


I dont even need a filter my Roswill Thor v2 just keeps dust out I just blew it out first time in 6 months and hardly any dust came out most of any dust was in my ASUS 780 direct cu my H90 was clean blowing out the case


----------



## pLuhhmm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> these filters dont do jack. i cant even clean them because they're not dusty at all. i have no clue... i have that powered blower that i use every few months, but it's not where i'm at right now, so...
> 
> 
> 
> Really? Those filters are working amazingly for me. See how clean my system is in the pics I have posted? I have not cleaned the inside of this case since my initial build nearly a year ago.
Click to expand...

What's your window panel like? I never had top exhaust fans or any on my side panel. Just push/pull on my back exhaust with the H60 and the stock HDD cage intake fans.

You don't even want to see what my H60 looked like when I took it out.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> What's your window panel like? I never had top exhaust fans or any on my side panel. Just push/pull on my back exhaust with the H60 and the stock HDD cage intake fans.
> 
> You don't even want to see what my H60 looked like when I took it out.


That may be your problem. I have clear packing tape over the vents on my window. I didn't want it sucking in cat hair. I plan to pick up one of these when I have the 20 bucks to spare for something thats mostly aesthetic.


----------



## pLuhhmm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> What's your window panel like? I never had top exhaust fans or any on my side panel. Just push/pull on my back exhaust with the H60 and the stock HDD cage intake fans.
> 
> You don't even want to see what my H60 looked like when I took it out.
> 
> 
> 
> That may be your problem. I have clear packing tape over the vents on my window. I didn't want it sucking in cat hair. I plan to pick up one of these when I have the 20 bucks to spare for something thats mostly aesthetic.
Click to expand...

And so my spending spree continues! Now to figure out which goes best with my NZXT Hue....

UPS Shipping (5-12 Days) - $14.99

yikes....


----------



## NIK1

Just hooked up a H110 in my cosmos 2 case and running good. I have noticed the 2 140 fans make a vibration sound that's pretty loud above 1400 rpm.What's a good replacement for the 140 fans I can put on.Also,how is that stock Tim that it has pre applied on the water block. I have some prolimatech pk 3 I could use or I the stock stuff ok.


----------



## curly haired boy

stock stuff is pretty good, actually.


----------



## [email protected]

Does the 100i have any new drivers out lately? It's been awhile since i checked..


----------



## Q5Grafx

i set up two noctua nh14s in mine and its silent again


----------



## LocutusH

Just joined the club with a H75.

Push/Pull with two AP15. Seems just as good, as my 3 years old H2O 620


----------



## Kittencake

I just scored a h100 for nothing i have a question .. how hard it it to fix the fins of the rad and if anyone knew the type or dimentions of the screws that go into the copper plate ?


----------



## Greatskeem

I made a thread in the case section however I'm going to ask here as well as I need to order the h105 asap:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greatskeem*
> 
> Just confirming guys, the CM Storm Trooper can easily support a Corsair H105 cooler right? I was going to go with Noctua NH-D15 for my new build(GB X99 UD4,i7 5820k,16GB DDR4), however the fact it blocks the first expansion slot and blocks memory expansion in the future, put me off.(unless you take the bloody thing off)
> 
> There will be ample room to fit the H105 internally above the motherboards, so the radiator with the fans can fit right?
> 
> Thanks.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greatskeem*
> 
> I made a thread in the case section however I'm going to ask here as well as I need to order the h105 asap:


Probably not the answer you want: but what's stopping you from looking up the dimensions of the H105 and comparing them to the measurements of the case? I am almost certain that someone else with that case has wondered something similar....


----------



## Greatskeem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Probably not the answer you want: but what's stopping you from looking up the dimensions of the H105 and comparing them to the measurements of the case? I am almost certain that someone else with that case has wondered something similar....


I don't have the case and I've been scouring the Internet and there are conflicting reports some say yes others no, I'm in the process of doing just that though and I'm currently looking at the Corsair Graphite 760T.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greatskeem*
> 
> I don't have the case and I've been scouring the Internet and there are conflicting reports some say yes others no, I'm in the process of doing just that though and I'm currently looking at the Corsair Graphite 760T.


Check here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1104349/the-official-cooler-master-storm-trooper-storm-stryker-club/10170#post_21929098


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Just hooked up a H110 in my cosmos 2 case and running good. I have noticed the 2 140 fans make a vibration sound that's pretty loud above 1400 rpm.What's a good replacement for the 140 fans I can put on.Also,how is that stock Tim that it has pre applied on the water block. I have some prolimatech pk 3 I could use or I the stock stuff ok.


the stock is Dow Corning. I'd keep them, those are pretty good TIM.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Does the 100i have any new drivers out lately? It's been awhile since i checked..


We are still on C link version *2.7.5339*. There is a new version coming out soon.


----------



## UZ7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> We are still on C link version *2.7.5339*. There is a new version coming out soon.


Yeah, I'm waiting on that 2.8









When I installed 2.7.5.339 I wasn't able to change LED lights (option was gone). Jumped back a version and it came back again.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UZ7*
> 
> Yeah, I'm waiting on that 2.8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I installed 2.7.5.339 I wasn't able to change LED lights (option was gone). Jumped back a version and it came back again.


Odd.. Mine works fine on that version as far as the lights go. The only issue I have is that it doesn't scale custom system images, it makes them full size and gives scroll bars. Speaking of.. @Corsair Joseph.. Is there a fix to make the custom images scale like the default images?


----------



## UZ7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Odd.. Mine works fine on that version as far as the lights go. The only issue I have is that it doesn't scale custom system images, it makes them full size and gives scroll bars.


Yeah its weird, I uninstalled/reinstalled and even deleted the remnant folders about 4-5 times. Went back to an older version and it came back so I figured I'll just wait it out lol


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greatskeem*
> 
> I made a thread in the case section however I'm going to ask here as well as I need to order the h105 asap:


On the first page of this thread is a link to the Hydro series Case Compatibility Thread. They may be able to help you out there.


----------



## pLuhhmm

also,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> Okay, so I was running some overclocks on my GPU (seems stable at +40Mhz/800 memory) and I heard this odd noise. Turned all my fans off using my controller and my GPU fans to their lowest. 99.9% sure it's coming from my H110. Any ideas? Initial google results seem to suggest maybe an air pocket? But it's hard to know if their sound is the same. Here's a video (sorry for the breathing, sinuses are killing me lately).
> 
> link if embedded doesn't work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YPg-xP8MaoA&feature=youtu.be


H110 still having this issue...


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> also,
> H110 still having this issue...


That's your pump's impeller, a few of the original H100's made that sound, and some were cured with a slight voltage reduction dubbed the "voltage dropper" see HERE this is a different pump so the above probably isn't applicable here







...

If it's trapped air causing the impeller to "cavitate", you might see improvement by slowly tilting your rig to 90 degrees to the right, so that your mobo is flat/horizontal. You might even see improvement @ 15 degrees tilt.

In any case Corsair will easily approve an RMA if the simple fixes don't work. I know it's a hassle but at least you know Corsair will take care of you


----------



## Chita Gonza

Ordered mine yesterday to go with my 800D!

BTW, i asked this on the corsair forum but had no replies, can i fit this cooler on the EVGA E758 mobo? I'm mainly concerned with the huge heatsink next to the CPU that might prevent me from mounting this to the back of the case.


----------



## LocutusH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> That's your pump's impeller, a few of the original H100's made that sound, and some were cured with a slight voltage reduction dubbed the "voltage dropper" see HERE this is a different pump so the above probably isn't applicable here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> If it's trapped air causing the impeller to "cavitate", you might see improvement by slowly tilting your rig to 90 degrees to the right, so that your mobo is flat/horizontal. You might even see improvement @ 15 degrees tilt.
> 
> In any case Corsair will easily approve an RMA if the simple fixes don't work. I know it's a hassle but at least you know Corsair will take care of you


And what if my mobo is already horizontal, and the rad vertical?

Because my new H75 seems to make also a cracklign noise, as it would have air inside...


----------



## Kittencake

I asked this before and no one responded but does anyone know the type of screws that go on the copper end of the water pump i seem to be missing one on my h100 and how easy it is to fix the fins on the rad ?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LocutusH*
> 
> And what if my mobo is already horizontal, and the rad vertical?
> 
> Because my new H75 seems to make also a cracklign noise, as it would have air inside...


I think the main idea here is to tilt your PC (regardless of its current orientation), in order to shift the liquid inside of the cooler....


----------



## LocutusH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I think the main idea here is to tilt your PC (regardless of its current orientation), in order to shift the liquid inside of the cooler....


And where should that air go, to stop make this crackling sound? The highest point atm is top of the radiator itself...


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LocutusH*
> 
> And where should that air go, to stop make this crackling sound? The highest point atm is top of the radiator itself...


You're severely over-thinking this, just tilt your case and see if you can get the noise to stop....


----------



## BradleyW

My old H110 had a crackling pump God bless it! It performed excellently, but the noise could be heard when the room was silent. I did all the regular "bleed out the air" methods. I eventually got rid.


----------



## LocutusH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> You're severely over-thinking this, just tilt your case and see if you can get the noise to stop....


No... its just i wasnt home since that, and the PC is built in the furniture, so its not that easy job to tilt it








However i spoke with amazon today, and they already sent me a replacement, so if the "tilting" my ton heavy cabinet goes wrong, i have a replacement


----------



## LocutusH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LocutusH*
> 
> No... its just i wasnt home since that, and the PC is built in the furniture, so its not that easy job to tilt it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However i spoke with amazon today, and they already sent me a replacement, so if the "tilting" my ton heavy cabinet goes wrong, i have a replacement


Just finished building it out, and restarting it outside the cabinet. I tilted it to all sides, nearly 90°, but the crackling noise stays. However, sometimes a little pssssh, or blurrr is clear to hear. So its pretty clear that there is air in the pump. But it wont go away.


----------



## Kittencake

-_- I need help with my h100


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kittencake*
> 
> I asked this before and no one responded but does anyone know the type of screws that go on the copper end of the water pump i seem to be missing one on my h100 and how easy it is to fix the fins on the rad ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kittencake*
> 
> -_- I need help with my h100


I'd suggest trying to contact @CorsairGeorge. Hopefully he should be able to help you.









Edit: Or @Corsair Joseph


----------



## Darc

What would be the optimal h100i setup (intake or exhaust) in a Corsair 250D with the MSI GTX 970's updated Twin Frozr, and a 200mm (again, intake or exhaust?) fan in the front? I was assuming I'd setup the H100i as an exhuast as I've heard the MSI 970 blows hot air into the case, but I'm not sure if I should use the 200mm fan as an intake and how that affects the air pressure in the case... Any thoughts?


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darc*
> 
> What would be the optimal h100i setup (intake or exhaust) in a Corsair 250D with the MSI GTX 970's updated Twin Frozr, and a 200mm (again, intake or exhaust?) fan in the front? I was assuming I'd setup the H100i as an exhuast as I've heard the MSI 970 blows hot air into the case, but I'm not sure if I should use the 200mm fan as an intake and how that affects the air pressure in the case... Any thoughts?


Setting the H100i up as exhaust will lower the temps of your case and components but will raise the temps of your CPU roughly 5-9c. You really just have to choose whether you want a warmer CPU or case. If you can set up your H100i as intake and then add another fan for exhaust on the side panel for your 970 to blow its hot exhaust air out of the case. Hope this helps


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kittencake*
> 
> I asked this before and no one responded but does anyone know the type of screws that go on the copper end of the water pump i seem to be missing one on my h100 and how easy it is to fix the fins on the rad ?


Maybe look on this site to see if they will sell you the screws you are looking for... http://www.corsair.com/en-us/cpu-coolers/cooling-parts-and-accessories

As far as the fins go, how are they messed up, are they just bent?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kittencake*
> 
> I asked this before and no one responded but does anyone know the type of screws that go on the copper end of the water pump i seem to be missing one on my h100 and how easy it is to fix the fins on the rad ?


The fins are just aluminum. If they are bent, stick a pen refill or something similar in to straighten them out. They should bend really easily.

As for the screw...no idea. Why not remove another one, and then take it to a hardware store for comparison?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Setting the H100i up as exhaust will lower the temps of your case and components but will raise the temps of your CPU roughly 5-9c. You really just have to choose whether you want a warmer CPU or case. If you can set up your H100i as intake and then add another fan for exhaust on the side panel for your 970 to blow its hot exhaust air out of the case. Hope this helps


5 to 9C? Where did you get that figure from? Other people in this thread have experimented with this and the average temperature difference is more like 1-3c, depending on the case and accessories.

Corsair George has actually mentioned using a rear to front airflow for GPUs that dump hot air into the case:

http://www.overclock.net/t/831636/official-corsair-graphite-club-780t-760t-730t-600t-380t-230t/2010#post_13976813


----------



## leo5111

is this for the H110 as well? if so count me in, has anyone noticed the, fans on the h110, seem to make like a speed up speed down sound? they are connected to my motherboard pwm connectors


----------



## kolo7127

So ... finally crammed an h105 in. Mounted the fans to the outside of the side panel. Bottom hose rubs on the front fan, but i ended up wrapping some velcro around it to protect it. I'm thinking about cutting out the grill on the side panel for better air flow, but I dont think i can destroy it. Added 2 80mm fans as exhaust to the rear and front 120 as intake CPU temps about 5-8 degrees lower under load with this setup , vs h75 in front and side 120s in exhaust. However GPU temps up about 5-8 degrees under load. I think id like to mount some fans on the GPU side panel as intake also. Here's some pics while i was messing around with different fan configurations.


----------



## pLuhhmm

sigh

have to rma my h110. bought a cheap heatsink off newegg b/c apparently they wont send you a replacement til you get yours to them... i wish i could just give them my credit info and just refund me the money later...

Now to figure out if my GPU is going bad or PSU.


----------



## LocutusH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LocutusH*
> 
> Just finished building it out, and restarting it outside the cabinet. I tilted it to all sides, nearly 90°, but the crackling noise stays. However, sometimes a little pssssh, or blurrr is clear to hear. So its pretty clear that there is air in the pump. But it wont go away.


Replacement H75 just arrived. Another 2 hours of installing in my cramped sff case...









Totally quiet now... lets see if it keeps that way.


----------



## leo5111

anyone know of some quieter fans for this H110? they are going 1500 and they seem a little noisy so something that puts out same or better cfm and is quieter?


----------



## aberrero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LocutusH*
> 
> Replacement H75 just arrived. Another 2 hours of installing in my cramped sff case...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Totally quiet now... lets see if it keeps that way.


Any thoughts about the F8 pro fans? How loud are they? Are you using the built in PWM splitter thing?


----------



## LocutusH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aberrero*
> 
> Any thoughts about the F8 pro fans? How loud are they? Are you using the built in PWM splitter thing?


I am not using the PWM ones, only the F8 Pro with 3 pin. I have 2 hooked up on 1 line, and another one in the upper deck. Fact is, that they are pushing the most air possible in this size and noise. Simply because the impeller is thicker than other 8cm fans. And they are vibration dampened. So they are damn good, running at ~ 1200rpm.
The only ones i would consider for replacement are the new noctua NF-A8 series. They *could* be just as good, but they are very expensive...


----------



## Soul Craze

Does anyone know which cooler is better?, The H40 or H50? I'm going to provide links to show the exact models but from what i understand the H50 is older and has a copper surface and the H40 is newer than it but doesn't have a copper surface? If someone can help that'd be awesome because i have both of these coolers but don't have the thermal paste to compare them against eachother.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181009
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181018


----------



## LocutusH

How big are chances to this... secont H75 arrived, installed, 2 days after it also begins the crackling noise...


----------



## aberrero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LocutusH*
> 
> How big are chances to this... secont H75 arrived, installed, 2 days after it also begins the crackling noise...


What kind of crackling? Like air trapped inside it? Is it the pump or the fans?


----------



## philhalo66

I just installed my H100i today and a friend directed me to this thread. i installed it according to the instructions and the temps are worse than they were on my Hyper 212 EVO by a solid 12C idle and 5-7C load. and a few of the screws were rusted and or stripped to the point they would not screw into place without forcing them and obviously i didn't want to do that.
Any suggestion on what i should do a friend said i should call corsair and see if i can't get replacement accessory kit or something.


----------



## DiaSin

@Corsair Joseph Any ETA on a Windows 10 compatible version of Corsair Link? The current version doesn't show any sensors or anything under Win10, just a blank bar to the left.


----------



## Soul Craze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> I just installed my H100i today and a friend directed me to this thread. i installed it according to the instructions and the temps are worse than they were on my Hyper 212 EVO by a solid 12C idle and 5-7C load. and a few of the screws were rusted and or stripped to the point they would not screw into place without forcing them and obviously i didn't want to do that.
> Any suggestion on what i should do a friend said i should call corsair and see if i can't get replacement accessory kit or something.


Did you buy it new or used?


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soul Craze*
> 
> Did you buy it new or used?


refurbished from newegg


----------



## blackhole2013

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> refurbished from newegg


you mean NEW cause my refurb H90 was sealed in box with upc cut and refurb sticker put on it ...


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackhole2013*
> 
> you mean NEW cause my refurb H90 was sealed in box with upc cut and refurb sticker put on it ...


My UPC isn't cut but they put a different sticker on it and then a silver REFURBISHED sticker next to it. it too was even in the plastic wrap and everything. it also says corsair refurbished 1 year warranty.


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> My UPC isn't cut but they put a different sticker on it and then a silver REFURBISHED sticker next to it. it too was even in the plastic wrap and everything. it also says corsair refurbished 1 year warranty.


RMA it, it's in bad shape if stuff is corroded.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> RMA it, it's in bad shape if stuff is corroded.


I'd rather not RMA unless i have to it seems to work Okay now that i using tuniq TX-4 instead of the pre-applied stuff.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> @Corsair Joseph Any ETA on a Windows 10 compatible version of Corsair Link? The current version doesn't show any sensors or anything under Win10, just a blank bar to the left.


You are aware that Windows 10 is currently in "Preview" status, right? As in, I wouldn't be holding my breath for an update....


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> You are aware that Windows 10 is currently in "Preview" status, right? As in, I wouldn't be holding my breath for an update....


And why do you think just because it is a preview they wouldn't release an update to make their products compatible?


----------



## aberrero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> And why do you think just because it is a preview they wouldn't release an update to make their products compatible?


Because it is useless and broken and a year from release?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> And why do you think just because it is a preview they wouldn't release an update to make their products compatible?


Well, due to the various times the installation - and the download page(s) - told you to expect that things might not work properly (and also advised NOT to install on your main rig), I tend to assume that some things might not work properly....







Also, considering the fact that it is a preview, I expect this to be the version that companies will be using to make their drivers - and it has now been out for 5 days....


----------



## LocutusH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aberrero*
> 
> What kind of crackling? Like air trapped inside it? Is it the pump or the fans?


It has air inside. Just like my first H75 kit. Two kits, same problem. After 48 hours it begins to crackle.
I think i have to leave corsair... and just find an antec h2o kit again, that worked for 3 years without problems for me.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Well, due to the various times the installation - and the download page(s) - told you to expect that things might not work properly (and also advised NOT to install on your main rig), I tend to assume that some things might not work properly....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, considering the fact that it is a preview, I expect this to be the version that companies will be using to make their drivers - and it has now been out for 5 days....


Ok, what does ANY of that have to do with what I said? I was asking if there would be an update, not asking why it didn't work. Anyway.. I found a workaround that got at least my H80i to pop up in corsair link, even if none of my other sensors and whatnot are there yet.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Ok, what does ANY of that have to do with what I said? I was asking if there would be an update, not asking why it didn't work. Anyway.. I found a workaround that got at least my H80i to pop up in corsair link, even if none of my other sensors and whatnot are there yet.


The preview was just released, which means you should give it more than a few days....Windows 8.1 was actually released for a while before an update for Link was made, so you should expect it to be a while for Windows 10....


----------



## nick779

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leo5111*
> 
> anyone know of some quieter fans for this H110? they are going 1500 and they seem a little noisy so something that puts out same or better cfm and is quieter?


Fans dont work like that, besides, you need static pressure, not cfm, and there arent many SP optimized 140mm fans out there. Only one I can think of is the Noctua industrial line, but theyre expensive and personally I dislike all of their fan products.


----------



## DR4G00N

Sign me up! My new H110.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Sign me up! My new H110.


Looks pretty good, did you set it up as intake or exhaust?


----------



## philhalo66

i forgot to add a pic


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Looks pretty good, did you set it up as intake or exhaust?


Exhaust. Working pretty good so far, 67c on the hottest core on my 920 @ 3.98GHz 1.3125v (1.34v actual) while running prime95.
Well worth the $80 cad I paid for a refurbished unit.


----------



## Curleyyy

I'm looking at picking up some new fans for my H100i. I was thinking about the Corsair SP120 fans though I feel like there is better. What would render me the lowest temperature. Fan noise isn't a concern.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Curleyyy*
> 
> I'm looking at picking up some new fans for my H100i. I was thinking about the Corsair SP120 fans though I feel like there is better. What would render me the lowest temperature. Fan noise isn't a concern.


If noise isn't a concern get a couple of Delta AFB1212GHE-CF00's (60db of pure awesomeness).
















In all seriousness Noctua NF-P12's or Scythe GT AP-15's would probably be your best bet.


----------



## curly haired boy

seconding the deltas

get the PWM version and as long as they're under 2 watts of draw per, you'll be golden.


----------



## naved777

i guess my corsair H100 fan controller got busted
i can only see level 1 light is lit up and even if press the button in the middle the other two levels doesn't activate.Already noticing some higher temps.The fans that came in are not PWM.Thought increase the fan speed manually if i connect them to motherboard fan headers and control them with Speed fan But Speed fan only showing 1 fan is connected and the system fan ,AUX fans showing 0 rpm and that CPU fan is the pump speed i guess.I have 6 fans in my system currently.So would buying a fan controller help ?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Exhaust. Working pretty good so far, 67c on the hottest core on my 920 @ 3.98GHz 1.3125v (1.34v actual) while running prime95.
> Well worth the $80 cad I paid for a refurbished unit.


Sounds like a good setup, and a good deal on the unit....65 on Prime isn't bad.


----------



## DR4G00N

Update:

I managed to get my 920 @ 4.19GHz with HT enabled using 1.4v, quite the voltage bump from 4.08GHz (1.3375v). Temps don't break 75c on the hottest core.


----------



## philhalo66

Is it normal for an h100i to not make 100% contact with an AMD CPU?


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Is it normal for an h100i to not make 100% contact with an AMD CPU?


Err, no I don't think so. It might be that the cpu's ihs is slightly convex/concave, I had that problem with my old a8-3870k. Lapping the ihs is really the only option to get full contact with the block, voids your cpu's warranty though. I've found that lapping drops core load temps by around 10c, so it's definitely worth doing if your trying to get the max oc out of your chip.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Err, no I don't think so. It might be that the cpu's ihs is slightly convex/concave, I had that problem with my old a8-3870k. Lapping the ihs is really the only option to get full contact with the block, voids your cpu's warranty though. I've found that lapping drops core load temps by around 10c, so it's definitely worth doing if your trying to get the max oc out of your chip.


It's definitely not my CPU because my old tuniq tower made 100% contact


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> It's definitely not my CPU because my old tuniq tower made 100% contact


Post a pic of the thermal paste spread. The h100i's block may be slightly convex.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Post a pic of the thermal paste spread. The h100i's block may be slightly convex.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> @Corsair Joseph Any ETA on a Windows 10 compatible version of Corsair Link? The current version doesn't show any sensors or anything under Win10, just a blank bar to the left.


I honestly don't know if there is one at the moment. But let me ask the C Link PM and see if there one currently in progress. I'll get back to yoiu.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Is it normal for an h100i to not make 100% contact with an AMD CPU?


No, its not normal. You should have a full contact between the CPU and coldplate on both platforms. What kind of temps are you seeing? idle and load.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> I honestly don't know if there is one at the moment. But let me ask the C Link PM and see if there one currently in progress. I'll get back to yoiu.
> No, its not normal. You should have a full contact between the CPU and coldplate on both platforms. What kind of temps are you seeing? idle and load.


I kinda figured it was odd, It barely beats my hyper 212 EVO idle is 30C and load is 40C my 212 idled in the low 20's and load was only 3-4C hotter than the h100i which seems very odd to me considering the friend who i got the 212 from replaced it with an h80i and got 20+C lower temps


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> I kinda figured it was odd, It barely beats my hyper 212 EVO idle is 30C and load is 40C my 212 idled in the low 20's and load was only 3-4C hotter than the h100i which seems very odd to me considering the friend who i got the 212 from replaced it with an h80i and got 20+C lower temps


yeah, there's so much that can go wrong with contact. This weekend I'm going to lap my h100i and my IHS....


----------



## LocutusH

Whats the normal pump speed at 12V for a H75?


----------



## philhalo66

Why is my motherboard showing 2300 RPM for the CPU fan ( h100i plugged into it) and the pump shows 2200? before the 1.07 firmware update they both showed 2300 did the firmware screw it up or something?


----------



## brandon6199

Hello.

I purchased a Corsair Hydro H110 cooler, and a Corsair 350D case. They should be arriving sometime early next week.

I have also purchased two Corsair SP140 fans to replace the stock fans that come with the case.

My only question is this: I'm going to mount the H110 on the top of my case, and want to have the SP140 fans pushing air through the radiator and out through the top of the case, exhausting the warm air. Essentially drawing air from the inside of the case, pushing it through the radiator, and out through the top of the 350D. In this orientation below:

CASE (TOP)
H110 RADIATOR (MIDDLE)
(2) SP140 FANS (BOTTOM)

Will I need to purchase additional screws in order to set this up? Also, what threads are the mounting holes in the H110. Are they 6/32? How would I go about setting this up?

Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Hello.
> 
> I purchased a Corsair Hydro H110 cooler, and a Corsair 350D case. They should be arriving sometime early next week.
> 
> I have also purchased two Corsair SP140 fans to replace the stock fans that come with the case.
> 
> My only question is this: I'm going to mount the H110 on the top of my case, and want to have the SP140 fans pushing air through the radiator and out through the top of the case, exhausting the warm air. Essentially drawing air from the inside of the case, pushing it through the radiator, and out through the top of the 350D. In this orientation below:
> 
> CASE (TOP)
> H110 RADIATOR (MIDDLE)
> (2) SP140 FANS (BOTTOM)
> 
> Will I need to purchase additional screws in order to set this up? Also, what threads are the mounting holes in the H110. Are they 6/32? How would I go about setting this up?
> 
> Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated.


if it's like my h100 then it will come with longer screw to mount the fans to the rad and then smaller ones to mount the rad to the case so it should come with everything you need


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> if it's like my h100 then it will come with longer screw to mount the fans to the rad and then smaller ones to mount the rad to the case so it should come with everything you need


Thanks! I also realized that my SP140 fans will likely come with the smaller screws as well.


----------



## curly haired boy

also IIRC the screws are 6/32, yes


----------



## philhalo66

Does anyone have a link for the h100i fw 1.05 the 1.07 is causing alot of problems


----------



## darkelixa

What problems are you getting?


----------



## Krazee

I upgraded from the H50 to the H80i and I love it!!


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> What problems are you getting?


my fans started rattling all of a sudden, the pump isn't reporting the right rpm, and the led keeps flashing red untill i change it to white


----------



## Wabbit16

Wow, haven't been on here in a while









I pulled my radiator and fans off my H80i today and noticed that the rubber 'caps' that fit over the tubing on the radiator side was perished and brittle - the rubber disintegrated in my hand when I took the assembly out...

Has anyone else ever had this happen? My GTX570 is around 2" underneath the bottom most part of the radiator, so I don't think it can be heat that caused it to perish as I have good airflow through my case...although I have been known to be wrong.

I found this guy on the Corsair forums that had the same issue - pic below. Mine looks a bit worse than his though, but I have not had any leaks (yet). The unit is about a year old.


----------



## Someone09

I have seen one other person complaining about this on here that I can remember. Maybe it was the same guy you mentioned.

Anyway, as far as I remember I contacted a Corsair rep who said that shouldn´t be a problem regarding the risks of a leak but he could RMA it anyway.
Which he did, I think.


----------



## Curleyyy

I'm looking at picking up some new fans for my h100i
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*
> 
> -snip-


This has happened to mine. The seals are all cracked and stuff. Though I've pulled mine apart about a dozen times without an issue. I feel like I'm waiting for the day where a leak will happen.


----------



## curly haired boy

i heard it's a cosmetic thing, the degradation of the covers. that said, i'll probably RMA mine if i notice it happening. either that or put on a couple of zipties to make sure everything's tight.


----------



## Wabbit16

Worst case scenario, it leaks and my upgrade will happen a lot sooner than anticipated

I'll leave it for now and maybe check back in a year and see how bad it's gotten. To RMA the device here in SA is a major pain in the behind, so I would rather not go through that if I can help it.

Thanks for the replies so far!


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> Thanks! I also realized that my SP140 fans will likely come with the smaller screws as well.


The screws the fans come with are fan screws, not radiator screws. They will screw into the plastic fan mounts but not the radiator.
All the Corsair AIO coolers I have purchased have come with either 4 or 8 long screws for going through the fan, the case and into the rad. However that's only good if you are mounting the fans between the rad and the case. You may need to purchase more rad screws and cut them shorter if you are mounting the rad direct to the chassis. None of the Corsair coolers I have purchased came with short screws.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*
> 
> Wow, haven't been on here in a while
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I pulled my radiator and fans off my H80i today and noticed that the rubber 'caps' that fit over the tubing on the radiator side was perished and brittle - the rubber disintegrated in my hand when I took the assembly out...
> 
> Has anyone else ever had this happen? My GTX570 is around 2" underneath the bottom most part of the radiator, so I don't think it can be heat that caused it to perish as I have good airflow through my case...although I have been known to be wrong.
> 
> I found this guy on the Corsair forums that had the same issue - pic below. Mine looks a bit worse than his though, but I have not had any leaks (yet). The unit is about a year old.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


According to Corsair, those rubber covers are purely cosmetic, and will not cause any leaks in any way.


----------



## leo5111

does doing push pull fans on h110 do anything for temps?


----------



## aberrero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leo5111*
> 
> does doing push pull fans on h110 do anything for temps?


I'm sure it helps, but you need to figure out whether or not it is worth it for you. There aren't many things out there that need more than a stock H110 to cool them, so what are you actually getting in return for the extra cost and noise?


----------



## wermad

Ordered up this bad-boy


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ordered up this bad-boy


Nice. I suggest changing the fans though, they are quite loud at 12v (and mine rattle at 7v but I think thats just because I bought a referb).


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Nice. I suggest changing the fans though, they are quite loud at 12v (and mine rattle at 7v but I think thats just because I bought a referb).


Thanks







, I was gonna pickup the Cooler Master Nepton but the reviews said it was way louder then the H110 and for only 1 or 2 degrees. So the H110 seems to be the best in terms of balanced performance and acoustics for the top end aio. I got the H110 new from amazon, so what ever issues come up initially, I can easily return it to amazon







. I was very tempted to pickup a Phanteks dual tower cooler but I ended up going w/ the aio lcs







. I'll give them a whirl and decide later. I only have a dual core so it shouldn't be that big of a thermal load on the h110.


----------



## DR4G00N

Yeah the h110's great, keeps my 920 @ 70-75c load when pumping 1.5v through it.


----------



## TTheuns

I picked up a H105 two days ago, sadly the application form does not include the H105 and is offline


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leo5111*
> 
> does doing push pull fans on h110 do anything for temps?


Push/pull will give you a couple more degrees c.


----------



## blackhole2013

my H90 has kept my 4670k at 4.7 core 4.5 uncore 1.3 v on each and 2933 ram cool for months now and I love it on my roswell thor case ... I love the tim that came with it also and my h90 is the first quiet pump unlike my H50 and H80 i own .... Finally a good job by corsair ...


----------



## Theroty

I put a h100i in my system to replace my Swiftech h220. I had issues with the h220 so it was repaired and then when it came back I had more issues and I felt like those issues were not going to be solved so I decided to move on. I will get some pictures up when I can of my rig. Have it setup as exhaust in my Air 540 with the stock fans on pull. Kept my 8350 at 4.5 at 39c during P95 on the "package" and the socket stayed about 51c. Have not had the time to push it harder right now. I know the settings I need for 4.7 and I think I will be able to push it past that and maybe hit 4.8.


----------



## jumpy2219

I'm having a problem with my H80i, max temps are reaching 90C. I'm running a 760K with an overclock to 4.6gHz, i don't know what the problem is. It also seems like Corsair link isn't working


----------



## Seketh

Hi guys.

So I'm on my third H100i. Why? Well, the cooling performance is great, but they all made/make a middle-to-high "hum/buzz" which became really annoying, since I have a silent system.

With my second unit, I figured out that the problem is vibration. When the H100i pump is in contact with any surface, even outside the case, it makes a vibration "hum", just like your phone vibrating, not as loud of course, but equally annoying to me. I have to assume vibration is normal for the H100i.

The H100i is the loudest thing on my system, louder than the stock fans at 600RPM. The PC is on my bedroom, I pretty much don't have audible background noise, and besides the H100i, the loudest thing on my system is my WD Caviar Blue. For reference, my case is an Obsidian 350D, my m/b is a Maximus VI Gene and my PSU is the AX760.

Now, noise is subjective. My girlfriend doesn't find the H100i loud at all, for her it's not annoying, but for me, it really gets on my nerves, so I'm going for a refund. I was wondering, for those of you guys that have hydro, do you also hear the "hum/buzz". Is it higher than your fans at low rpm?

I was thinking on trying the H110, but if they all make that "hum", there's no point, since I'll stop having a silent PC...


----------



## DR4G00N

Oops, messed up. Ignore.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seketh*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> So I'm on my third H100i. Why? Well, the cooling performance is great, but they all made/make a middle-to-high "hum/buzz" which became really annoying, since I have a silent system.
> 
> With my second unit, I figured out that the problem is vibration. When the H100i pump is in contact with any surface, even outside the case, it makes a vibration "hum", just like your phone vibrating, not as loud of course, but equally annoying to me. I have to assume vibration is normal for the H100i.
> 
> The H100i is the loudest thing on my system, louder than the stock fans at 600RPM. The PC is on my bedroom, I pretty much don't have audible background noise, and besides the H100i, the loudest thing on my system is my WD Caviar Blue. For reference, my case is an Obsidian 350D, my m/b is a Maximus VI Gene and my PSU is the AX760.
> 
> Now, noise is subjective. My girlfriend doesn't find the H100i loud at all, for her it's not annoying, but for me, it really gets on my nerves, so I'm going for a refund. I was wondering, for those of you guys that have hydro, do you also hear the "hum/buzz". Is it higher than your fans at low rpm?
> 
> I was thinking on trying the H110, but if they all make that "hum", there's no point, since I'll stop having a silent PC...


I don't notice any humming noise from my H110, with good fans it's very quiet. The stock fan's suck though, I suggest swapping them with some Noctua's if you get one.


----------



## BrofistBean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seketh*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> So I'm on my third H100i. Why? Well, the cooling performance is great, but they all made/make a middle-to-high "hum/buzz" which became really annoying, since I have a silent system.
> 
> With my second unit, I figured out that the problem is vibration. When the H100i pump is in contact with any surface, even outside the case, it makes a vibration "hum", just like your phone vibrating, not as loud of course, but equally annoying to me. I have to assume vibration is normal for the H100i.
> 
> The H100i is the loudest thing on my system, louder than the stock fans at 600RPM. The PC is on my bedroom, I pretty much don't have audible background noise, and besides the H100i, the loudest thing on my system is my WD Caviar Blue. For reference, my case is an Obsidian 350D, my m/b is a Maximus VI Gene and my PSU is the AX760.
> 
> Now, noise is subjective. My girlfriend doesn't find the H100i loud at all, for her it's not annoying, but for me, it really gets on my nerves, so I'm going for a refund. I was wondering, for those of you guys that have hydro, do you also hear the "hum/buzz". Is it higher than your fans at low rpm?
> 
> I was thinking on trying the H110, but if they all make that "hum", there's no point, since I'll stop having a silent PC...


Have you tried updating the firmware?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jumpy2219*
> 
> I'm having a problem with my H80i, max temps are reaching 90C. I'm running a 760K with an overclock to 4.6gHz, i don't know what the problem is. It also seems like Corsair link isn't working


Seems like you may need to remount the block to check that the TIM has spread properly


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jumpy2219*
> 
> I'm having a problem with my H80i, max temps are reaching 90C. I'm running a 760K with an overclock to 4.6gHz, i don't know what the problem is. It also seems like Corsair link isn't working


There aren't that many things that can go wrong with these coolers.


Check around the seams and connections for the hoses and make sure you don't see any stains indicating it may be leaking.
Make sure the backplate is mounted right side up.
Make sure the block is not hitting anything on your motherboard, which may prevent the block from seating on your CPU perfectly flat. This happened to me, and I had to turn my block 90 degrees.
Make sure your pump is running at 100%. If your pump is plugged into a fan header, make sure that the computer is not trying to control the pump RPM like it would a fan. Disable CPU control of that fan header.
If you are running the pump from a molex connector, you will likely still have the tac signal plugged into a fan header. Again, check the RPM on that fan header and make sure the pump is running at 100%. If it isn't, and it's plugged into a molex direct from the psu, you may have a bad pump.
Make sure the fans are both pointed in the same direction. Believe it or not, we have seen people here have the fans pointed in opposite directions, thus working against each other.
Check your spread on your cpu and the block. This will tell you if you are getting good contact.
Don't worry about the TIM as the Corsair TIM is excellent. However, if you decide to remove the block make sure you have some new, decent TIM to use when you reassemble it.
Here is one last thing. Some of us have found that when these coolers are mounted correctly, the block doesn't seem as tight as it should. As a solution, some of us have added washers between the backplate and the motherboard. This causes the block screws to go into the holes further, causing the block to be a little tighter. When I did this I get a couple of degrees c improvement (give or take). It was definitely a noticeable improvement. Just make sure you don't use metal washers. I used those red cardboard washers you see in assorted computer parts so often. They didn't fit perfectly, so I had to twist a blade from a pair of scissors around inside the washer until it would fit over the mounting nuts on the backplate.


----------



## jumpy2219

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> There aren't that many things that can go wrong with these coolers.
> 
> 
> Check around the seams and connections for the hoses and make sure you don't see any stains indicating it may be leaking.
> Make sure the backplate is mounted right side up.
> Make sure the block is not hitting anything on your motherboard, which may prevent the block from seating on your CPU perfectly flat. This happened to me, and I had to turn my block 90 degrees.
> Make sure your pump is running at 100%. If your pump is plugged into a fan header, make sure that the computer is not trying to control the pump RPM like it would a fan. Disable CPU control of that fan header.
> If you are running the pump from a molex connector, you will likely still have the tac signal plugged into a fan header. Again, check the RPM on that fan header and make sure the pump is running at 100%. If it isn't, and it's plugged into a molex direct from the psu, you may have a bad pump.
> Make sure the fans are both pointed in the same direction. Believe it or not, we have seen people here have the fans pointed in opposite directions, thus working against each other.
> Check your spread on your cpu and the block. This will tell you if you are getting good contact.
> Don't worry about the TIM as the Corsair TIM is excellent. However, if you decide to remove the block make sure you have some new, decent TIM to use when you reassemble it.
> Here is one last thing. Some of us have found that when these coolers are mounted correctly, the block doesn't seem as tight as it should. As a solution, some of us have added washers between the backplate and the motherboard. This causes the block screws to go into the holes further, causing the block to be a little tighter. When I did this I get a couple of degrees c improvement (give or take). It was definitely a noticeable improvement. Just make sure you don't use metal washers. I used those red cardboard washers you see in assorted computer parts so often. They didn't fit perfectly, so I had to twist a blade from a pair of scissors around inside the washer until it would fit over the mounting nuts on the backplate.


\

Well i had re-seated the block a few times, but doesn't seem to improve anything, the issue is that corsair link is not recognizing the H80i, so i cant control anything really


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jumpy2219*
> 
> \
> 
> Well i had re-seated the block a few times, but doesn't seem to improve anything, the issue is that corsair link is not recognizing the H80i, so i cant control anything really


What OS are you using?


----------



## jumpy2219

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> What OS are you using?


I am using 8.1, but i figured out the issue, i had to change some values in the directory.


----------



## rotorwash

The stock fans, although quiet below ~1200rpm, create an annoying mechanical noise when ramped up higher. I do not have my machine in a bedroom but would think if I did I would replace the stock fans. The trade-off is less cooling efficiency if using the Noctua 1500rpm pwm fans but they will be *almost* silent, YMMV.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotorwash*
> 
> The trade-off is less cooling efficiency if using the Noctua 1500rpm pwm fans but they will be *almost* silent, YMMV.


I've got Noctua industrial 2000rpm fans (black ones) on my H110, they a silent and cool better than the included fans at lower RPM.
This makes the fan fairly quiet until you hit 1500rpm, which doesn't happen often.


----------



## 44TZL

*Build with H75 - 4690K @4.5Ghz (1.18V)*

I have been running my new rig for a week now, and very happy with the performance of this cooler - both in cooling and noise. The cpu runs at a maximum around +20C over ambient (currently 45C) and that's with fans/pump running at about 50-60%.

I did have a some small bubbles in the pump at the start, but after running it at 100% for half a minute that disappeared.. I had mounted the rad so that any bubbles would be in the top of the rad with the pipes at the bottom... and seemed to have worked - it's all very quiet.


----------



## rotorwash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> I've got Noctua industrial 2000rpm fans (black ones) on my H110, they a silent and cool better than the included fans at lower RPM.
> This makes the fan fairly quiet until you hit 1500rpm, which doesn't happen often.


Those are 140mm fans, right?


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotorwash*
> 
> Those are 140mm fans, right?


Yep, I found they work a lot better than the puke brown ones, plus they are lighter, guess that helps too..


----------



## Regnitto

I'm thinking of getting an h105, was just wondering if its worth getting it vs an h100i.

I'm currently air cooled and very loud. I'm doing this to quiet down my rig, as the fans in it now are giving my fiance and I headaches.
I also plan to get a pair of Corsair Air 120 quiet series blue led fans with it to replace the stock fans

Basically, I'm wondering how much better the h105 performs over the h100i and whether it's worth the extra few bucks for a thicker rad. I have plenty of room in my case and my largest rad-mount is 240mm.
I am cooling an AMD FX-6100 clocked at 4.5ghz 1.512vcore


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> I'm thinking of getting an h105, was just wondering if its worth getting it vs an h100i.
> 
> I'm currently air cooled and very loud. I'm doing this to quiet down my rig, as the fans in it now are giving my fiance and I headaches.
> I also plan to get a pair of Corsair Air 120 quiet series blue led fans with it to replace the stock fans
> 
> Basically, I'm wondering how much better the h105 performs over the h100i and whether it's worth the extra few bucks for a thicker rad. I have plenty of room in my case and my largest rad-mount is 240mm.
> I am cooling an AMD FX-6100 clocked at 4.5ghz 1.512vcore


Have you looked at reviews to see the temp differences? They're really easy to find when you use this cool new thing called Google....


----------



## ThornTwist

I have a H70, Does I quality?


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Have you looked at reviews to see the temp differences? They're really easy to find when you use this cool new thing called Google....


gee....i never thought of that.......







.....seriously though, I came to this thread because I was hoping for the opinions of people who use these products on a daily basis. I can read spec and stat pages all day long. I can go through reviews on newegg or amazon etc all day long too. If all I get is ******* sarcasm then I guess this isn't the thread for me. Don't expect me to come looking to join this club when I get one if that's all the response I can get.


----------



## ThornTwist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> gee....i never thought of that.......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....seriously though, I came to this thread because I was hoping for the opinions of people who use these products on a daily basis. I can read spec and stat pages all day long. I can go through reviews on newegg or amazon etc all day long too. If all I get is ******* sarcasm then I guess this isn't the thread for me. Don't expect me to come looking to join this club when I get one if that's all the response I can get.


Sorry missed your post. Either or would be a great addition to your build. I have a H70 and my temps are really low, like 36 unparked on idle @4.3 GHz. I would recommend getting one for sure.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> gee....i never thought of that.......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....seriously though, I came to this thread because I was hoping for the opinions of people who use these products on a daily basis. I can read spec and stat pages all day long. I can go through reviews on newegg or amazon etc all day long too. If all I get is ******* sarcasm then I guess this isn't the thread for me. Don't expect me to come looking to join this club when I get one if that's all the response I can get.


AFAIK the H105 is a slightly more basic version of the H100i. I don't think it has the fan hub or software control. Either one would serve you quite well. I have an H80i and am running my 3570k at 4.6ghz, I get upper 30s - lower 40s for idle, low 70s for load temps. Keep in mind this is a 1.2ghz overclock.


----------



## DotBeta

Wanted to chime in and say I'm currently an H60 owner but will be picking up an H100i early next week. I am planning on going for a push-pull setup using the supplied sp120mm fans for push and 2 ap120mm performance edition fans for pull, would this be a good setup?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> gee....i never thought of that.......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....seriously though, I came to this thread because I was hoping for the opinions of people who use these products on a daily basis. I can read spec and stat pages all day long. I can go through reviews on newegg or amazon etc all day long too. If all I get is ******* sarcasm then I guess this isn't the thread for me. Don't expect me to come looking to join this club when I get one if that's all the response I can get.


If you were to type h100i vs h105 review into Google, you would get the answer to your question, but you want someone to do that for you. I dont mind helping people - those who try to help themselves before asking for help....I even told you what you should type into google, doesnt get much easier than that....


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> If you were to type h100i vs h105 review into Google, you would get the answer to your question, but you want someone to do that for you. I dont mind helping people - those who try to help themselves before asking for help....I even told you what you should type into google, doesnt get much easier than that....


I did my research on google, newegg, and amazon before coming here. This was meant to be my final piece of research before making my purchase. How about getting off your high horse for a bit and either just give a constructive answer or nothing at all. I'm not some dumb noob, I'm just a broke enthusiast trying to cover all bases before making a purchase
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> AFAIK the H105 is a slightly more basic version of the H100i. I don't think it has the fan hub or software control. Either one would serve you quite well. I have an H80i and am running my 3570k at 4.6ghz, I get upper 30s - lower 40s for idle, low 70s for load temps. Keep in mind this is a 1.2ghz overclock.


thank you. this is more the answer I was looking for. I'm not too concerned about fan hub or software control as I plan to pick up a cheap fan controller with it.


----------



## DotBeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> gee....i never thought of that.......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....seriously though, I came to this thread because I was hoping for the opinions of people who use these products on a daily basis. I can read spec and stat pages all day long. I can go through reviews on newegg or amazon etc all day long too. If all I get is ******* sarcasm then I guess this isn't the thread for me. Don't expect me to come looking to join this club when I get one if that's all the response I can get.


H105 is thicker than H100i and doesn't come with the frills of the i series. In other words it boils down to if your case can handle a thicker radiator or a thinner one, that's the difference. With that said take a chill pill he wasn't even being rude.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> I did my research on google, newegg, and amazon before coming here. This was meant to be my final piece of research before making my purchase. *How about getting off your high horse for a bit and either just give a constructive answer or nothing at all. I'm not some dumb noob, I'm just a broke enthusiast trying to cover all bases before making a purchase*
> thank you. this is more the answer I was looking for. I'm not too concerned about fan hub or software control as I plan to pick up a cheap fan controller with it.


Have you ever heard the saying, "Give a man a fish and he'll have food for a day. Teach a man to fish and he'll have food for a lifetime"? You're asking for a fish, but I'm handing you the fishing pole....Calm yourself.


----------



## DotBeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> this is more the answer I was looking for. I'm not too concerned about fan hub or software control as I plan to pick up a cheap fan controller with it.


The H105 rad is *THICKER* than the H100i, I can't stress that enough. It might not fit in your case compared to the H100i conventional rad thickness size.


----------



## leo5111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DotBeta*
> 
> The H105 rad is *THICKER* than the H100i, I can't stress that enough. It might not fit in your case compared to the H100i conventional rad thickness size.


its 2 millimeters thicker, like 1/8th of a inch


----------



## nick779

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> *Build with H75 - 4690K @4.5Ghz (1.18V)*
> 
> I have been running my new rig for a week now, and very happy with the performance of this cooler - both in cooling and noise. The cpu runs at a maximum around +20C over ambient (currently 45C) and that's with fans/pump running at about 50-60%.
> 
> I did have a some small bubbles in the pump at the start, but after running it at 100% for half a minute that disappeared.. I had mounted the rad so that any bubbles would be in the top of the rad with the pipes at the bottom... and seemed to have worked - it's all very quiet.


Jesus, 4.5 @ 1.18, talk about a golden chip.


----------



## DotBeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leo5111*
> 
> its 2 millimeters thicker, like 1/8th of a inch


That's incorrect, no offense but you're way off.

The H105 radiator is 38mm thick, while the H100i radiator is is 25mm thick. Therefor H105's radiator is 1/2 an inch thicker than the H100i rad. That's a lot more than 2mm.

There is also a lower fin density on the H105. Start watching at 1:55.


----------



## leo5111

your right, newegg shows wrong size, is the 105 better then the 110?


----------



## DotBeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leo5111*
> 
> your right, newegg shows wrong size, is the 105 better then the 110?


TBH the H100i, H105 and H110 all perform the same imo. Only difference between H100i and H110 is 120mm fans vs. 140mm fans as the radiators are both the same thickness but the 140mm fans spin slower so it performs the same.

It all boils down to application and if your case supports the size/thickness.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> I'm thinking of getting an h105, was just wondering if its worth getting it vs an h100i.
> 
> I'm currently air cooled and very loud. I'm doing this to quiet down my rig, as the fans in it now are giving my fiance and I headaches.
> I also plan to get a pair of Corsair Air 120 quiet series blue led fans with it to replace the stock fans
> 
> Basically, I'm wondering how much better the h105 performs over the h100i and whether it's worth the extra few bucks for a thicker rad. I have plenty of room in my case and my largest rad-mount is 240mm.
> I am cooling an AMD FX-6100 clocked at 4.5ghz 1.512vcore


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DotBeta*
> 
> Wanted to chime in and say I'm currently an H60 owner but will be picking up an H100i early next week. I am planning on going for a push-pull setup using the supplied sp120mm fans for push and 2 ap120mm performance edition fans for pull, would this be a good setup?


Just letting you guys know that if you get the H100i (im sure H105 as well) the stock fans are super loud. I had to spend an extra $40 on Noctua fans just to make the system be quiet. IMHO I would go with a high end Noctua D14 or D15 over an AIO. That was my learning experience, I should have just stuck with the Noctua U14S. I was an idiot and thought water cooling would give me awesome temps over the air cooled system and it really wasnt the case. If you want to go with water cooling really the only way you can get huge drops will be doing a custom water loop.


----------



## DotBeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Just letting you guys know that if you get the H100i (im sure H105 as well) the stock fans are super loud. I had to spend an extra $40 on Noctua fans just to make the system be quiet. IMHO I would go with a high end Noctua D14 or D15 over an AIO. That was my learning experience, I should have just stuck with the Noctua U14S. I was an idiot and thought water cooling would give me awesome temps over the air cooled system and it really wasnt the case. If you want to go with water cooling really the only way you can get huge drops will be doing a custom water loop.


Thanks for the heads up but I'm sure the fans are no louder than the corsair fan on the H60 I'm currently using and I can tolerate that, what's more is the fan in my EVGA 750G1 is louder than the corsair fan during idle lol, so even if I went with the quietest fans my psu is still loud. I'm also going with the H100i because I like the look over a huge honking air cooler, and while a custom loop would of course be the better option I don't have 700 bucks to blow on a nice setup. I'll be running the H100i on quiet mode and leave it at that setting.

I appreciate the heads up though


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DotBeta*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up but I'm sure the fans are no louder than the corsair fan on the H60 I'm currently using and I can tolerate that, what's more is the fan in my EVGA 750G1 is louder than the corsair fan during idle lol, so even if I went with the quietest fans my psu is still loud. I'm also going with the H100i because I like the look over a huge honking air cooler, and while a custom loop would of course be the better option I don't have 700 bucks to blow on a nice setup. I'll be running the H100i on quiet mode and leave it at that setting.
> 
> I appreciate the heads up though


No problem, I just couldnt stand it when I first installed mine, sounded like the vacuum was running lol. I have also read some into the H100i and was thinking of adding 2 more of the Noctua F12s on it for the p/p set up but since the rad is so thin you really dont gain any extra cooling for the money. If you do decide you want to go the p/p route make sure all 4 fans are the same, if not the air flow will not be very good since the fans are designed differently.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DotBeta*
> 
> The H105 rad is *THICKER* than the H100i, I can't stress that enough. It might not fit in your case compared to the H100i conventional rad thickness size.


thickness is not an issue. my thermaltake chaser mk-i has plenty of room. Radiator mounts up top and once I remove my heat sink (see pic below) there will be more than enough room.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Just letting you guys know that if you get the H100i (im sure H105 as well) the stock fans are super loud. I had to spend an extra $40 on Noctua fans just to make the system be quiet. IMHO I would go with a high end Noctua D14 or D15 over an AIO. That was my learning experience, I should have just stuck with the Noctua U14S. I was an idiot and thought water cooling would give me awesome temps over the air cooled system and it really wasnt the case. If you want to go with water cooling really the only way you can get huge drops will be doing a custom water loop.


this is why I planned to get a twin pack of Corsair Air 120 quiet series ($20 newegg) as I read through google search and newegg reviews that they are much quieter than the stock fans that come with the h105 (plus blue led to match my rig). I also have 2 200mm fans just above the radiator mount in my case which will help with a push/pull setup. If that's not enough, I would still have enough room to mount fans on both sides of the radiator (i think.....RAM might get in the way at that point) to push/pull/pull, but i doubt I'll go that far. I honestly doubt I'll push my Zambezi any further, i just want it quiet(er).


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> 
> this is why I planned to get a twin pack of Corsair Air 120 quiet series ($20 newegg) as I read through google search and newegg reviews that they are much quieter than the stock fans that come with the h105 (plus blue led to match my rig). I also have 2 200mm fans just above the radiator mount in my case which will help with a push/pull setup. If that's not enough, I would still have enough room to mount fans on both sides of the radiator (i think.....RAM might get in the way at that point) to push/pull/pull, but i doubt I'll go that far. I honestly doubt I'll push my Zambezi any further, i just want it quiet(er).


Honestly a 200mm fan is crap in a computer case, there is no static pressure at all with a fan of that size. You would be better off with a single 120mm or 140mm or duel 120mm/140mm


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Have you ever heard the saying, "Give a man a fish and he'll have food for a day. Teach a man to fish and he'll have food for a lifetime"? You're asking for a fish, but I'm handing you the fishing pole....Calm yourself.


Not that I don't like the Bible quote, but I think what they are trying to tell you is that you can teach someone to fish without being rude. Since I know that your first response will be I'm not being rude, yeah you kind of are. The point of a forum is to ask questions and talk this stuff out - not tell people go find it yourself. I totally see what you are saying, but it sounds like he just wanted to confirm what he'd found in his research by asking those that own the products he's thinking of buying - which sounds totally reasonable to me.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> Not that I don't like the Bible quote, but I think what they are trying to tell you is that you can teach someone to fish without being rude. Since I know that your first response will be I'm not being rude, yeah you kind of are. The point of a forum is to ask questions and talk this stuff out - not tell people go find it yourself. I totally see what you are saying, but it sounds like he just wanted to confirm what he'd found in his research by asking those that own the products he's thinking of buying - which sounds totally reasonable to me.


Well, you are entitled to your opinion. I don't believe that spoon-feeding people information is the most helpful course of action - encouraging them to look for the answers is more helpful for them if you really think about it.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Well, you are entitled to your opinion. I don't believe that spoon-feeding people information is the most helpful course of action - encouraging them to look for the answers is more helpful for them if you really think about it.


I'm fairly certain I said I understand that and I'm not disagreeing with you, but again you don't need to be rude in order to do it !


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*
> 
> I'm fairly certain I said I understand that and I'm not disagreeing with you, but again you don't need to be rude in order to do it !


Wow....As I said, you are entitled to your opinion. I don't feel like I was being rude, and I'm not the only one. So calm yourself, it's over and done.

So, how about that H100i?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Wow....As I said, you are entitled to your opinion. I don't feel like I was being rude, and I'm not the only one. So calm yourself, it's over and done.
> 
> So, how about that H100i?


Well, I love the specs on the H100i and think it's totally awesome for what it does


----------



## rotorwash

I am running the H100i on a i7 4790k. My idle temp is 27-30c depending on ambient temperatures. On a full load (8 threads of execution) using benchmarks and Folding my max temp is 71c. The fans get a little loud above about 1700rpm but for everyday work they are practically silent... the disks and fans in my NAS (Synology DS410) are much louder than my system. I keep hearing about folks getting high temps with AIC coolers but I haven't seen it.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotorwash*
> 
> I am running the H100i on a i7 4790k. My idle temp is 27-30c depending on ambient temperatures. On a full load (8 threads of execution) using benchmarks and Folding my max temp is 71c. The fans get a little loud above about 1700rpm but for everyday work they are practically silent... the disks and fans in my NAS (Synology DS410) are much louder than my system. I keep hearing about folks getting high temps with AIC coolers but I haven't seen it.


Same here, I get great temps on my 4670k with an H100i. I am also delidded, since that stock thermal paste on the die was crap.







So, depending on my ambients, I never even touch 70*C. I always have a fan on in my room for air circulation, so there's no hope of me ever hearing the fans in my PC.


----------



## texas_nightowl

So...a few months back I popped in to ask for recommendations on replacing fans in my system. Then...life interfered...and since the system was running acceptably...if not optimally...it got ignored. Now I am back and still need to replace fans in my system. Idle temps are running 40/31/36/37.

I have a 3yr old? H60. I am considering replacing with an H100 if it will fit with my case (400r) and board (Asus P8Z68-V). However, initially I think I am going to stick with the H60 unless I see any problems when I go in to replace fans.

The good part about ignoring things for a while is that I see there are now some GT AP-15's available at reasonable prices. So, are they still "the best" at cooling with minimal noise? I think when I popped in before I was going to end up with Noiseblocker B12-3's (at least for the rad) and was considering CoolerMaster JetFlo's or Akasa Apache/Rosewill HyperBorea for front case intakes. Should I just go with GT AP-15's for all?

If I go with AP-15's, I understand they are 3 pin with 4 pin adaptors? Anything I need to know particularly about connecting them?

My board has the following fan connectors: 2 x CPU (4-pin) labeled as CPU_FAN and CPU_FAN_OPT; 2 x Chassis (1x4 pin, 1x3 pin) labeled as CHA_FAN and CHA_FAN2; 2 x Power (3-pin) labeled as PWR_FAN1 and PWR_FAN2.

Finally, I have a total of 6 fan mount locations...2 front, 1 bottom, 1 rear, 2 top...any input on optimal use? I was thinking use both front as intake, use rear to mount rad and push through rad to exhaust, and possibly use either the bottom or 1 top as another intake? The case does have a slide out air filter on the bottom which will help (some) with dust.

Here's a pic...ignore the arrows and numbers...using just to illustrate fan locations.


Appreciate any input...sorry to be asking again but I will be doing it in the next few days so a few months won't go by again.


----------



## rotorwash

I have 6 fan mounts also on the Define R4. I use the H100i in the top exhausting air from the interior. I have 2 140mm fans in the front of the case pulling fresh air in and running at about 50% and ramping up when needed. I have a 140mm fan in the rear running 80% exhausting air from the interior, it also ramps up to 100% when needed. This seems to be enough air flow for all of my components (mem, GPU, motherboard, SSD, HD) and remain quiet.


----------



## texas_nightowl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotorwash*
> 
> I have 6 fan mounts also on the Define R4. I use the H100i in the top exhausting air from the interior. I have 2 140mm fans in the front of the case pulling fresh air in and running at about 50% and ramping up when needed. I have a 140mm fan in the rear running 80% exhausting air from the interior, it also ramps up to 100% when needed. This seems to be enough air flow for all of my components (mem, GPU, motherboard, SSD, HD) and remain quiet.


Thanks. I plan to have a careful look later at whether the H100i would fit and not obstruct ports. I see your parts list had PWM Noctua's...no problems?


----------



## rotorwash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *texas_nightowl*
> 
> Thanks. I plan to have a careful look later at whether the H100i would fit and not obstruct ports. I see your parts list had PWM Noctua's...no problems?


I am not using them at the moment... only the 140mm in front. I bought the 120mm's to replace the Corsair fans but they are quiet enough for me. The Nocutuas are sitting in my build box.


----------



## DotBeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotorwash*
> 
> I have 6 fan mounts also on the Define R4. I use the H100i in the top exhausting air from the interior. I have 2 140mm fans in the front of the case pulling fresh air in and running at about 50% and ramping up when needed. I have a 140mm fan in the rear running 80% exhausting air from the interior, it also ramps up to 100% when needed. This seems to be enough air flow for all of my components (mem, GPU, motherboard, SSD, HD) and remain quiet.


Using an R4 as well so I'm glad to hear it's working out well for you. Really digging the R4 image for the Corsair link, plan on doing the same







.


----------



## curly haired boy

thing with fans running on an h100i is the rad's pretty restrictive and has a high number of fins per inch. that means your priority in selecting fans has to be static pressure...

i'm happy with my deltas


----------



## DotBeta

Installed my h100i today, everything is working great and the back lit corsair logo is very sharp. Quiet mode is virtually silent for me I am very happy with the results! One thing to note is I barely had any space between the ram heat sink and fan I had to massage it in there.


----------



## rotorwash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DotBeta*
> 
> Installed my h100i today, everything is working great and the back lit corsair logo is very sharp. Quiet mode is virtually silent for me I am very happy with the results! One thing to note is I barely had any space between the ram heat sink and fan I had to massage it in there.


Those who install it need to beware of high heat spreaders on RAM. I bought my ram with this consideration in mind.


----------



## Ricwin

Has anyone modified one of these Corsair units to include a reservoir or UV pipes?

Im disappointed with the cooling capabilities of my H60 2013 so I have looked at adding a reservoir (and maybe an extra radiator) as it will be cheaper to mod than replace.
I'd be looking at adding a 250mm Phobya res, new coolant and some plain black tubing.

Anyone have thoughts or suggestions about this?


----------



## DotBeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ricwin*
> 
> Has anyone modified one of these Corsair units to include a reservoir or UV pipes?
> 
> Im disappointed with the cooling capabilities of my H60 2013 so I have looked at adding a reservoir (and maybe an extra radiator) as it will be cheaper to mod than replace.
> I'd be looking at adding a 250mm Phobya res, new coolant and some plain black tubing.
> 
> Anyone have thoughts or suggestions about this?


Pump wouldn't be able to handle it, the pump is designed to work with the radiator attached to it. I have an alphacool NeXXos ST30 radiator which is virtually the same size as the corsair H100i radiator

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15664/ex-rad-373/Alphacool_NexXxoS_ST30_Full_Copper_Slim_Profile_Dual_120mm_Radiator.html?id=N5vdVkZB&mv_pc=208

And I've been thinking about replacing the H100i radiator with it since the ST30 is all copper and is basically the king of slim rads but from the research I've done it would cause more problems than anything else. Doesn't mean I won't use my spare H60 as a guinea pig







. For science.


----------



## Ricwin

Well, a Radiator may be out of the question if the pump is not strong enough. However a reservoir will not require any additional effort from the pump.


----------



## VSG

A radiator with a fill port, and one on a similar restriction level as the existing ones could be potentially used without much issue. Just the question of if it is worth it given the expense and extra size from the fill port, let alone the hassles of new tubing, coolant and possibly mixed metals. Martin had a test on one of the Corsair AIOs and I'd love to test it out myself but no AIO


----------



## blackhole2013

I got to say the tim on my H90 is great I suggest not to take it off during instal and give it a chance .. Its getting better temps than my arctic silver does ....


----------



## DapperDan795

Hey everyone,

Just installed a H100i on my 3770k last night. It's overclocked to 4.5ghz and idle temps are 30 and load with aida64 stress test is 70. However that's with monitoring the cpu package temp with aida64, Corsair Link shows anywhere from 5-10 degrees cooler. Thoughts on those temps?


----------



## rotorwash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DapperDan795*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> Just installed a H100i on my 3770k last night. It's overclocked to 4.5ghz and idle temps are 30 and load with aida64 stress test is 70. However that's with monitoring the cpu package temp with aida64, Corsair Link shows anywhere from 5-10 degrees cooler. Thoughts on those temps?


What were the temps before the installation? I get similar temps on my 4790k but am not familiar with the 3770k. Try RealTemp or CPUID HWMonitor, these are what I use for monitoring temperature and other things.


----------



## DapperDan795

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotorwash*
> 
> What were the temps before the installation? I get similar temps on my 4790k but am not familiar with the 3770k. Try RealTemp or CPUID HWMonitor, these are what I use for monitoring temperature and other things.


Bout the same actually. I had a Hyper 212 on it before.


----------



## rotorwash

I've found that with the H100i I did not see a dramatic change is temperature (several degrees C) lower. But I did notice when OC'ing that I got *consistent* temps; i.e. once it hit let say 68C, it stayed there consistently. There were no peaks or valleys in temp on the AIC compared with my air cooler. Plus, the case looks a lot cleaner with more airflow for the MB components







You can play around with tuning the cooler with Corsair Link. I set up a good balance between cooling and noise.


----------



## DapperDan795

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotorwash*
> 
> I've found that with the H100i I did not see a dramatic change is temperature (several degrees C) lower. But I did notice when OC'ing that I got *consistent* temps; i.e. once it hit let say 68C, it stayed there consistently. There were no peaks or valleys in temp on the AIC compared with my air cooler. Plus, the case looks a lot cleaner with more airflow for the MB components
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can play around with tuning the cooler with Corsair Link. I set up a good balance between cooling and noise.


Great points. I have all my case fans (4 x Sp120 led and 2 Af 140) all connected to a fan controller. Corsair Link says my pump is running 2200 rpm or somewhere in that range I can't remember right now. Overall I like the cleaner looks as well. The Hyper 212 was an amazing cooler but god awful to look at through my giant window on my 760t case.


----------



## rotorwash

Yes. The pump speed is fairly constant and you cannot not change it without hacking. You can ramp up/down the radiator fans using the H100i temp group. Actually, you can use any temp(sensor) you like but using coolant temp (H100i temp) makes more sense to me.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotorwash*
> 
> Yes. The pump speed is fairly constant and you cannot not change it without hacking. You can ramp up/down the radiator fans using the H100i temp group. Actually, you can use any temp(sensor) you like but using coolant temp (H100i temp) makes more sense to me.


You can actually change the pump speed for the H100i from within the Link software - you just adjust the RPM Divider for the pump. There's just really no need to adjust it away from the default value, it just makes more noise on the higher speed.


----------



## rotorwash

Thank you. You are right... brain fart.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotorwash*
> 
> Thank you. You are right... brain fart.


No worries, happens to everyone at some point....hehehe....


----------



## LostParticle

Hi guys









I have a Corsair H110 , 4 fan push/pull setup (please, see my rig in my signature), since around April 2014, and I'd like to ask you a few questions. My apologies but I didn't have the time to read this entire thread yet.

1) MAX temps running the latest Prime95, Small FFTs for 10 minutes, at stock settings meaning after loading Optimized Defaults, which locks all 4 cores at x42 - 4.2GHz. Room temperature 22C. Are these temperatures all right?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







2) Recently, like a month ago when I got my i7-4790K, I have remounted the H110 and I observed some de-coloration on the CPU block. I took a few pictures. Please, look on the top-right side. How does it look to you? Is everything OK? I always use isopropyl alcohol and coffee filters to clean it from the thermal paste. For thermal paste I use the PROLIMATECH PK-3 NANO ALUMINIUM. The tube was purchased and opened approx. a month ago. I applied a small blob in the middle without spreading it.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









3) Do I necessarily have to use those adhesive strips on the backplate or not? Unfortunately, I have not used them - I do not even have them anymore... Are they ONLY for assistance to mount it, or are they also required for the 100% proper seating of CPU block? Do they play any role in how firmly/tightly the CPU block is seated on the processor?The pump and the backplate are seated properly I suppose, meaning that they to do not "play" - move (jog), at all.

Thank you very much in advance for any help!


----------



## DotBeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackhole2013*
> 
> I got to say the tim on my H90 is great I suggest not to take it off during instal and give it a chance .. Its getting better temps than my arctic silver does ....


The pre applied tim on the block is shin etsu which is really good, definitely use it







.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a Corsair H110 , 4 fan push/pull setup (please, see my rig in my signature), since around April 2014, and I'd like to ask you a few questions. My apologies but I didn't have the time to read this entire thread yet.
> 
> 1) MAX temps running the latest Prime95, Small FFTs for 10 minutes, at stock settings meaning after loading Optimized Defaults, which locks all 4 cores at x42 - 4.2GHz. Room temperature 22C. Are these temperatures all right?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) Recently, like a month ago when I got my i7-4790K, I have remounted the H110 and I observed some de-coloration on the CPU block. I took a few pictures. Please, look on the top-right side. How does it look to you? Is everything OK? I always use isopropyl alcohol and coffee filters to clean it from the thermal paste. For thermal paste I use the PROLIMATECH PK-3 NANO ALUMINIUM. The tube was purchased and opened approx. a month ago. I applied a small blob in the middle without spreading it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) Do I necessarily have to use those adhesive strips on the backplate or not? Unfortunately, I have not used them - I do not even have them anymore... Are they ONLY for assistance to mount it, or are they also required for the 100% proper seating of CPU block? Do they play any role in how firmly/tightly the CPU block is seated on the processor?The pump and the backplate are seated properly I suppose, meaning that they to do not "play" - move (jog), at all.
> 
> Thank you very much in advance for any help!


Hey people, anyone?


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a Corsair H110 , 4 fan push/pull setup (please, see my rig in my signature), since around April 2014, and I'd like to ask you a few questions. My apologies but I didn't have the time to read this entire thread yet.
> 
> 1) MAX temps running the latest Prime95, Small FFTs for 10 minutes, at stock settings meaning after loading Optimized Defaults, which locks all 4 cores at x42 - 4.2GHz. Room temperature 22C. Are these temperatures all right?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) Recently, like a month ago when I got my i7-4790K, I have remounted the H110 and I observed some de-coloration on the CPU block. I took a few pictures. Please, look on the top-right side. How does it look to you? Is everything OK? I always use isopropyl alcohol and coffee filters to clean it from the thermal paste. For thermal paste I use the PROLIMATECH PK-3 NANO ALUMINIUM. The tube was purchased and opened approx. a month ago. I applied a small blob in the middle without spreading it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) Do I necessarily have to use those adhesive strips on the backplate or not? Unfortunately, I have not used them - I do not even have them anymore... Are they ONLY for assistance to mount it, or are they also required for the 100% proper seating of CPU block? Do they play any role in how firmly/tightly the CPU block is seated on the processor?The pump and the backplate are seated properly I suppose, meaning that they to do not "play" - move (jog), at all.
> 
> Thank you very much in advance for any help!


1. Looks like it peaked at 78°C, that is actually good. There is no need to worry about those temps, they are perfectly fine.

2. The coldplate looks normal to me and I'm not seeing anything that is out of the ordinary - nothing to be concerned about there.

Have you installed them back? Did you see any changes in CPU temp?

3. Those pads are simply to hold the backplate in place to make the pump installation much easier, nothing more.


----------



## NIK1

I am going to use a Corsair H55 in push/pull.What fans would you reccomend of the 3 kinds I have.2 Swiftech 120 mm fans,or 2 Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition fans,or 2 Noctua NF-F12 PWM.What would be the best for the rad.


----------



## rotorwash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I am going to use a Corsair H55 in push/pull.What fans would you reccomend of the 3 kinds I have.2 Swiftech 120 mm fans,or 2 Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition fans,or 2 Noctua NF-F12 PWM.What would be the best for the rad.


The higher the static pressure rating for the fan the better. I am using the stock Corsair fans and they serve me well. Sorry I cannot answer your specific question.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> 1. Looks like it peaked at 78°C, that is actually good. There is no need to worry about those temps, they are perfectly fine.
> 
> 2. The coldplate looks normal to me and I'm not seeing anything that is out of the ordinary - nothing to be concerned about there.
> 
> Have you installed them back? Did you see any changes in CPU temp?
> 
> 3. Those pads are simply to hold the backplate in place to make the pump installation much easier, nothing more.


Thank you very much for your support -at last someone cared about my questions - +REP!

I've run OCCT as well. Here are the results, room temperature = 22.8C. Again, at stock settings, no overclocking at all.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







It looks pretty normal to me - note that AVX is enabled.

I have one last question: What is the best way to clean my radiator from the dust? From what I've read blowing with a blower is the best but I'm wondering IF I can also wash it, meaning IF I can put just the radiator under the shower, taking extra super care that the pump will not get wet, and then dry it thoroughly with a hair dryer. Sorry if my question is stupid, I just want to learn.

After approx. five days I will receive my new motherboard, a Gigabyte Z97X SOC Force. I will have to learn how to use it and get the hang of it, so I will install my system on open air for a few days. For this setup I will use my previous CPU cooler, the Noctua NH-U14S, two fan setup. I will run the same stress tests and post the results. I'm curious to see the difference.

Thank you.


----------



## Juliotech

Hello everyone,

I installed this yesterday, can i join the club?


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> I have one last question: What is the best way to clean my radiator from the dust? From what I've read blowing with a blower is the best but I'm wondering IF I can also wash it, meaning IF I can put just the radiator under the shower, taking extra super care that the pump will not get wet, and then dry it thoroughly with a hair dryer. Sorry if my question is stupid, I just want to learn.


I would deeply appreciate it if someone would enlighten me on this matter. @Wirerat has the same cooler, perhaps he could help?

Thank you


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> I would deeply appreciate it if someone would enlighten me on this matter. @Wirerat has the same cooler, perhaps he could help?
> 
> Thank you


I would stick with using air to clean it. If you happen to miss some water when you're drying off the cooler, then you could be taking a completely unnecessary risk. There's no real need to wash it.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I would stick with using air to clean it. If you happen to miss some water when you're drying off the cooler, then you could be taking a completely unnecessary risk. There's no real need to wash it.


Thanks, I'll stick to air, too


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Thanks, I'll stick to air, too


Sounds like the best course of action to me, less things can go wrong with using air.


----------



## bill1024

I use air or my vacuum with the soft brush.
Just be careful with a vacuum, it can make static so I would not clean the boards with it
Many years ago I had a job repairing NCR cash registers and carried a vac that had a ground wire attached to the tube so static would not build up at the end of the tube.
Blowing dust out of the system in the house does not make the wife a happy camper!!!!!!


----------



## NIK1

I have a H110 installed up top in my Cosmos 2 case in push/pull 3 fans only.I can not fit the fourth fan on the bottom underneath the rad with the sabertooth mb.It hits the cpu pump wire,and the thermal armour in spots.Anyway,with the three fans I have on the rad is the stock h110 fan on the bottom of the rad in push.with 2 noctua 140's on top of the rad in pull.From what I have read here the noctuas are better in push than in pull.Is this true.If so,what fans should I get for pull on top of the rad.Any reccomendations,or should I just leave it how it is.


----------



## DiceAir

Can anyone give me the pump head dimensions on the h80i please? I plan to use that cooler for my crossfire setup and don't know if it will fit between the 2 cards.

if it's anything smaller than the cooler master 140xl then it will fit


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Can anyone give me the pump head dimensions on the h80i please? I plan to use that cooler for my crossfire setup and don't know if it will fit between the 2 cards.
> 
> if it's anything smaller than the cooler master 140xl then it will fit


The pump is about 1.25 inches in height, shorter than CM 140XL.


----------



## PinotNoire82

Hello everyone! After several years I decided to replace my computer and these days I would assemble it.
I have a question about the Corsair H105 liquid cooling system.
On the motherboard (Asus Maximus Hero VII) there are 2 connectors CPU FAN and CPU OPT.

You advise me to connect the pump on CPU FAN and the fans on CPU OPT (with Y cable)
or
the pump directly to the power supply (12V line) and the fans on the CPU FAN (always with Y cable).

I know for sure that the pump should be working 100% in this model.

Please help me. Thanks so much!


----------



## mAs81

I believe that it is always better to connect the pump in the CPU Fan connector,then through BIOS adjust the CPU fan speed to maximum..
You can connect the fans on any other header


----------



## PinotNoire82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> I believe that it is always better to connect the pump in the CPU Fan connector,then through BIOS adjust the CPU fan speed to maximum..
> You can connect the fans on any other header


Thank you for your reply!








The 2 fans of Corsair H105 I'm forced to install with Y cable on the CPU OPT because the motherboard have 4 Chassis connectors already used with other fans (3x120mm on front and 1x140mm rear) but in this way I think that the fans go to max RPM because the in the BIOS CPU FAN e CPU OPT are not separate from what I've read. I am wrong?!


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinotNoire82*
> 
> Hello everyone! After several years I decided to replace my computer and these days I would assemble it.
> I have a question about the Corsair H105 liquid cooling system.
> On the motherboard (Asus Maximus Hero VII) there are 2 connectors CPU FAN and CPU OPT.
> 
> You advise me to connect the pump on CPU FAN and the fans on CPU OPT (with Y cable)
> or
> the pump directly to the power supply (12V line) and the fans on the CPU FAN (always with Y cable).
> 
> I know for sure that the pump should be working 100% in this model.
> 
> Please help me. Thanks so much!


I have a Corsair H110 with four fans, in a push/pull setup. Please, see my signature for my rig. I have the two push fans on CPU_Fan, the other two pull fans on CPU_OPT, and the pump on another, 3-pin fan header of my motherboard, called POWER_FAN I think, which by default provides 100% power to the fan connected to it.


----------



## mAs81

I have a H75 with the pump connected on the CPU fan header and 2 fans in push pull configuration connected to a fan controller..
There is always that option if you manually want to control your fans' speed and are worried about noise ...


----------



## LostParticle

I have all my system's fans connected to my Aquaero 5LT and only the CPU cooler connected to the motherboard. I prefer having the mobo control the CPU cooler because you never know what might occur with a fan controller.


----------



## PinotNoire82

Thank you very much for your answers!
At the end I opted to purchase the "NZXT Grid 10 Port Fan" for case fan's and use CPU_FAN for the pump and CHA_FAN2 for the fans with the Y cable.
Thank you very much to both of you!


----------



## Mergatroid

Nice to see this thread continues to be so busy. It could use more pictures though......
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ricwin*
> 
> Has anyone modified one of these Corsair units to include a reservoir or UV pipes?
> 
> Im disappointed with the cooling capabilities of my H60 2013 so I have looked at adding a reservoir (and maybe an extra radiator) as it will be cheaper to mod than replace.
> I'd be looking at adding a 250mm Phobya res, new coolant and some plain black tubing.
> 
> Anyone have thoughts or suggestions about this?


There are many cases of this earlier in the thread, but unfortunately it's so huge now that I honestly couldn't spend the time to go look for it. There have been people adding a res as early as the first H50 AIO units. I only recall modest temperature gains though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DotBeta*
> 
> The pre applied tim on the block is shin etsu which is really good, definitely use it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Actually the TIM is Dow Corning. Corsair stopped using Shin Etsu a few years ago. From what I have read on Corsair's site, the Dow Corning performs the same as the Shin Etsu.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hey people, anyone?


All I can help you with is to say that the adhesive strips for the back/mounting plate are just for holding it in place during the installation and you are not required to use them if you prefer not to.

I wouldn't worry about any discolouration unless you can feel it getting rough, or you can see some oxidation forming.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juliotech*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I installed this yesterday, can i join the club?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


FYI, although I have done some similar mountings of rads, I thought I would mention to you that, because of the way your system is mounted, if there is any air in the system it will settle in your pump. Not good for the pump.
I have also heard from people in this thread that mounting a pump higher than a rad will create some type of problem for the pump moving the flow of liquid inside the system. Something to do with making it harder to move the liquid. I have mounted rads a few inches lower than the pump, but I have never done it to the extreme you have.
How does it sound? I am curious because of all the warnings I have heard here.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> I would deeply appreciate it if someone would enlighten me on this matter. @Wirerat has the same cooler, perhaps he could help?
> 
> Thank you


You could give the rad a bath if you wanted to. It is waterproof after all. However, a compressor, blower or vacuum will work fine. In fact, many vacuum cleaners will allow you to attach the hose onto the exhaust of the vacuum cleaner, turning it into a blower.

Note I would suggest aiming it outdoors on the first try. That hose may be dirty inside.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I have a H110 installed up top in my Cosmos 2 case in push/pull 3 fans only.I can not fit the fourth fan on the bottom underneath the rad with the sabertooth mb.It hits the cpu pump wire,and the thermal armour in spots.Anyway,with the three fans I have on the rad is the stock h110 fan on the bottom of the rad in push.with 2 noctua 140's on top of the rad in pull.From what I have read here the noctuas are better in push than in pull.Is this true.If so,what fans should I get for pull on top of the rad.Any reccomendations,or should I just leave it how it is.


You should try and get fans that have a similar RPM, static pressure and air flow. However, if they are different, Corsair George has recommended in this very thread to use the fans with the highest static pressure as the push fans.

It won't matter too much if the pull fans are not quite as powerful as the push fans because the push fans are pushing through a radiator. Thus they will never achieve their rated air flow anyway.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> All I can help you with is to say that the adhesive strips for the back/mounting plate are just for holding it in place during the installation and you are not required to use them if you prefer not to.
> 
> I wouldn't worry about any discolouration unless you can feel it getting rough, or you can see some oxidation forming.
> 
> You could give the rad a bath if you wanted to. It is waterproof after all. However, a compressor, blower or vacuum will work fine. In fact, many vacuum cleaners will allow you to attach the hose onto the exhaust of the vacuum cleaner, turning it into a blower.
> 
> Note I would suggest aiming it outdoors on the first try. That hose may be dirty inside.


Thanks for your reply, I will use my new vacuum cleaner to blow the dust away this weekend when my new motherboard will arrive.

Can someone please tell me if there are electronics in the waterblock itself? If so, where are they placed? I'm talking about the H110 here.

I will keep using air cleaning but at some point in time I will have to wash the radiator, as well.

Thank you


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I got a H80i today. It worked fine, but I didn't like the fan curve. I installed Corsair Link and at the end it asked to update firmware. I clicked ok, and it instantly said update failed. The LED turned red, and the fans went to 100%. Now it's stuck like this, and corsair link no longer detects the device.

My guess is the firmware is now corrupted. I've searched, but everything says to connect to the device... I've tried older versions of Corsair Link with no success.

My temps are fine. Even under full load the average is under 50C


----------



## Juliotech

Is almost dead silent for me, just the fans blowing air, i have 29c on idle and 45 under load with my Phenom II BE to 4.0 mghz...and is a temporal installation until i be able to buy a Corsair 750 D.


----------



## Juliotech

Is almost dead silent for me, just the fans blowing air, i have 29c on idle and 45 under load with my Phenom II BE to 4.0 mghz...and is a temporal installation until i be able to buy a Corsair 750 D.


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> I got a H80i today. It worked fine, but I didn't like the fan curve. I installed Corsair Link and at the end it asked to update firmware. I clicked ok, and it instantly said update failed. The LED turned red, and the fans went to 100%. Now it's stuck like this, and corsair link no longer detects the device.
> 
> My guess is the firmware is now corrupted. I've searched, but everything says to connect to the device... I've tried older versions of Corsair Link with no success.
> 
> My temps are fine. Even under full load the average is under 50C


RMA it?


----------



## rotorwash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> I got a H80i today. It worked fine, but I didn't like the fan curve. I installed Corsair Link and at the end it asked to update firmware. I clicked ok, and it instantly said update failed. The LED turned red, and the fans went to 100%. Now it's stuck like this, and corsair link no longer detects the device.
> 
> My guess is the firmware is now corrupted. I've searched, but everything says to connect to the device... I've tried older versions of Corsair Link with no success.
> 
> My temps are fine. Even under full load the average is under 50C


I have read about this in the Corsair forums. Have you check for a solution there? Also, their support is very good, unlike (unfortunately) their software.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> I got a H80i today. It worked fine, but I didn't like the fan curve. I installed Corsair Link and at the end it asked to update firmware. I clicked ok, and it instantly said update failed. The LED turned red, and the fans went to 100%. Now it's stuck like this, and corsair link no longer detects the device.
> 
> My guess is the firmware is now corrupted. I've searched, but everything says to connect to the device... I've tried older versions of Corsair Link with no success.
> 
> My temps are fine. Even under full load the average is under 50C


this is making me lean even more toward the H105 as it does not have corsair link support......will be making my purchase in 8 days when I get my Christmas check.


----------



## rotorwash

Don't get me wrong... when you get a combination of Link software and firmware (which I have) that works for your configuration, it works great! It just takes a bit of trial and error to get there. And once one does get there one sticks with it; i.e. upgrade or change at your own risk. It is unfortunate because the AIC works great, IMO.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotorwash*
> 
> I have read about this in the Corsair forums. Have you check for a solution there? Also, their support is very good, unlike (unfortunately) their software.


I've tried everything on their forums, but I still cannot get the device to connect. Besides, I couldn't even try half the stuff on their forum because my account didn't have permission since it's new. I couldn't even view some parts of the site. I figured I'd post here in case anyone else had the exact same problem and found a solution.

I contacted their support about it, I'll see how things go. I figured worst case I will just use my motherboard or a separate fan controller for the fans. The pump looks like it's running at full speed, is it safe to run it at 100% 24/7?

Also, holy crap these fans are loud when used in push pull. With one on it's not much louder than my case fan.

EDIT:

Got a reply from Corsair support, asking me to do everything I've already done. I tried once more and still the same results.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> II contacted their support about it, I'll see how things go. I figured worst case I will just use my motherboard or a separate fan controller for the fans. The pump looks like it's running at full speed, is it safe to run it at 100% 24/7?
> 
> Also, holy crap these fans are loud when used in push pull. With one on it's not much louder than my case fan.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Got a reply from Corsair support, asking me to do everything I've already done. I tried once more and still the same results.


At this point, I would get that unit replaced. It sounds like you've got a bricked unit. Contact your re-seller and see if they can swap it out for you. Otherwise, you're welcome to submit an RMA request and get your replacement from us. Feel free to send me a PM if you need assistance.

and btw, the pump needs to run at full speed all the time for optimal performance. Plus, there is no option in Link where you can manually change the pump's rpm anyway.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Can someone please tell me if there are electronics in the waterblock itself? If so, where are they placed? I'm talking about the H110 here.
> 
> Thank you


Check out the photo in this thread, http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=124372


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> At this point, I would get that unit replaced. It sounds like you've got a bricked unit. Contact your re-seller and see if they can swap it out for you. Otherwise, you're welcome to submit an RMA request and get your replacement from us. Feel free to send me a PM if you need assistance.
> 
> and btw, the pump needs to run at full speed all the time for optimal performance. Plus, there is no option in Link where you can manually change the pump's rpm anyway.


Alright thanks. Corsair support got back to me and I'm currently in the process of setting up an RMA. Hopefully all goes well. Glad to see they help out fast.


----------



## DotBeta

Im running into an issue with my h100i, whenever i reset my pc the color of the block become washed out and i have to reset it but the setting is the same, and if i change it the colors stay washed out until i set them all to black then it works properly again. After that as is well until the next restart, is this a common thing? Not a pain but an inconvenience.


----------



## rotorwash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DotBeta*
> 
> Im running into an issue with my h100i, whenever i reset my pc the color of the block become washed out and i have to reset it but the setting is the same, and if i change it the colors stay washed out until i set them all to black then it works properly again. After that as is well until the next restart, is this a common thing? Not a pain but an inconvenience.


My works fine. I currently have it set to change colors depending on CPU temperature. Before that I had it set to color cycle. In both cases neither shutdowns nor restarts affected the settings I set using Corsair Link (I think the settings are saved to flash on water block). Sometimes, when looking at the Corsair Link UI, the colors did not reflect what the LED was doing but a click on the Link software color indicator caused it to reflect the color(s) of the LED. Are you clicking save each time you reset the settings?


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Corsair got back and said to submit a replacement through newegg. The cost of sending it back is about $18 if I use their shipping method through UPS, which kind of defeats the purpose of even sending it back. As long as the pump keeps working I think I'm just going to run it as is and use my motherboard to control the fans.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Corsair got back and said to submit a replacement through newegg. The cost of sending it back is about $18 if I use their shipping method through UPS, which kind of defeats the purpose of even sending it back. As long as the pump keeps working I think I'm just going to run it as is and use my motherboard to control the fans.


Are you within 30 days to have them ask to you replace via Newegg? If so, you shouldn't have to pay to ship it back if you RMA via Newegg.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

It's within the 30 days. Also the the Return and Replace button take me to the same page on their site...


----------



## VSG

Do a trial of Newegg Premier then if they are still insisting on you paying to ship it back. I have shoprunner via AMEX that has most of those features but that service is worth the money I'd say even past trial.


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DotBeta*
> 
> Im running into an issue with my h100i, whenever i reset my pc the color of the block become washed out and i have to reset it but the setting is the same, and if i change it the colors stay washed out until i set them all to black then it works properly again. After that as is well until the next restart, is this a common thing? Not a pain but an inconvenience.


this was a problem i faced. set your color levels to 254 instead of 255. imperceptible, but fixes the issue - assuming you had a solid color


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Check out the photo in this thread, http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=124372


Thank you VERY much for the link!
Can you also please tell me if there are any electronics inside the radiator, somewhere? Just trying to figure out if it is 100% safe to wash the radiator, at some point in time.

Thank you!!


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Do a trial of Newegg Premier then if they are still insisting on you paying to ship it back. I have shoprunner via AMEX that has most of those features but that service is worth the money I'd say even past trial.


It doesn't give me the option to try it, nor is it really worth it since I only order like one or two things are year from newegg. I'll talk with corsair and see if it would be cheaper sending it to them. Newegg's return policy says that they do not pay for return shipping.

I'll stop ranting. I was merely just wondering if there was some step that I may have missed and figured this was the best thread to get help in. Other than the software, the product does quite a good job at cooling my OC'd X5650. Rarely do I go over 50C at full load. It cools just fine even when testing with only one fan attached. The tubing is just the right length for my case. I was able to attach it to a 120MM fan mount in the drive bays, with minimal slack in the tubing. Looks like it belongs there.

On a side note, I was thinking I could connect my NB waterblock to the cooler. It's pretty much a strait through block, I don't think it would add much restriction. Just a thought. I have the block just sitting here and want to use it.


----------



## VSG

Expanding these AIOs isn't easy due to lack of fill port and also the relatively weak pump. This is before the whole potential issue of galvanic corrosion even comes in. Not saying it's impossible so I definitely am interested if you go ahead with it.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Thank you VERY much for the link!
> Can you also please tell me if there are any electronics inside the radiator, somewhere? Just trying to figure out if it is 100% safe to wash the radiator, at some point in time.
> 
> Thank you!!


There is none inside the radiator, you can run warm water across the fins to clean if you wish, that is totally fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> On a side note, I was thinking I could connect my NB waterblock to the cooler. It's pretty much a strait through block, I don't think it would add much restriction. Just a thought. I have the block just sitting here and want to use it.


Something that we wouldn't recommend due to warranty reasons.. but I have seen this done in the past and they seemed to be ok after the mod...

It surely nice to see when ppl gets creative with our coolers.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> There is none inside the radiator, you can run warm water across the fins to clean if you wish, that is totally fine.


I think he was referring to cleaning the radiator from the inside after disassembly, which is not something I would recommend at all unless (a) hooking up a component with a fill/bleed port and (b) accounting for the pressure drop in the loop from said component.

If he just meant an external wash, then yeah nothing's going to happen









BTW I thought you were in the HID dept at Corsair?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> this is making me lean even more toward the H105 as it does not have corsair link support......will be making my purchase in 8 days when I get my Christmas check.


I agree. If I were to purchase a new AIO water cooler today, I would not purchase one that uses the link. Over the last few years I have come to understand that Corsair's software really isn't very good, and they usually release it in a very buggy condition. When I purchased the M90 mouse, it took about three months before software came out that actually worked properly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> It doesn't give me the option to try it, nor is it really worth it since I only order like one or two things are year from newegg. I'll talk with corsair and see if it would be cheaper sending it to them. Newegg's return policy says that they do not pay for return shipping.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'll stop ranting. I was merely just wondering if there was some step that I may have missed and figured this was the best thread to get help in. Other than the software, the product does quite a good job at cooling my OC'd X5650. Rarely do I go over 50C at full load. It cools just fine even when testing with only one fan attached. The tubing is just the right length for my case. I was able to attach it to a 120MM fan mount in the drive bays, with minimal slack in the tubing. Looks like it belongs there.
> 
> On a side note, I was thinking I could connect my NB waterblock to the cooler. It's pretty much a strait through block, I don't think it would add much restriction. Just a thought. I have the block just sitting here and want to use it.


This is why I prefer to purchase at a local store instead of ordering on the 'net. Lucky for me, my favorite place to purchase parts is only about 10 blocks from where I live.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I think he was referring to cleaning the radiator from the inside after disassembly, which is not something I would recommend at all unless (a) hooking up a component with a fill/bleed port and (b) accounting for the pressure drop in the loop from said component.
> 
> If he just meant an external wash, then yeah nothing's going to happen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW I thought you were in the HID dept at Corsair?


He's been asking about cleaning his rad externally over the last few pages, so I'm assuming he's talking about just washing it without taking it apart.

Needless to say, there are no electronics in or on the rad.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> There is none inside the radiator, you can run warm water across the fins to clean if you wish, that is totally fine.


Thank you for the information, I meant external washing of the radiator after blowing it, I am going to try this with caution.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> BTW I thought you were in the HID dept at Corsair?


Not just HID, Corsair support in general








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Thank you for the information, I meant external washing of the radiator after blowing it, I am going to try this with caution.


No problem at all, you should be fine


----------



## VSG

Good to know who to bug now just in case


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> No problem at all, you should be fine


Thank you, I washed the radiator by putting it under the shower a couple of hours ago. Now I have it drying and tomorrow morning I will check it out and use a hairdryer a bit. I have "isolated" the pump by putting it inside a plastic bag. We were two people during the washing and she was holding the pump away from the shower.

I will remount my system in 10 days approximately because right now I have it on open air to test my new mobo - see rig.

Thanks again! Great support you provide!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Wish Gigabyte would offer similar support, as well...


----------



## NorKris

wuut wuut













very nice corsair, but late


----------



## mybeat

Hey,

I just installed H105 and I get this weird noise from the pump, sort of like buzzing or similar to what hard drives make when they write stuff. It's not that loud but is still annoying.
I've tried turning the case to different sides guess it was a stuck bubble or something, but that didn't help.

I've dealt with H70/H60 and they were almost silent. Does anyone here have H105 and can check/confirm that their pump is near silent?


----------



## 72bluenova

Just an FYI to some that have had the H100i since end of 2012. Last night I was going to replace the fans and saw that the rings were dried and starting opening up.










So make sure to check yours please. I took my H100i out before something happened and put my CM Evo back on. I doubt that the hose would pop off but you never know. Also with a 5/8 hose clamp you can replace those rubber rings. Time to RMA this









--edit
It seems they are just cosmetic rings and do nothing.


----------



## darkelixa

Wow makes me scared to change back to water cooling from my noctua d14, was looking at either using a corsair h100i / nzxt x61 or silverstone tundra td02 but im scared of leaks, had a coolermaster 280l but it makes quite a loud noise at the pump so i pulled it out straight away before it broke, have to use it to cool my i7 4790k any suggestions?


----------



## MerkageTurk

Just got a H110 temps idle @ XMP overclock x99

Idle @ 9c
Max temps - 30c

Swiftech h220

Stock idle 30c
Max temps 104c

Had a problem i guess


----------



## Travee

Is it normal that the H80i is the loudest component in my case? I keep hearing the pump of the H80i when everything else is nearly unhearable at idle. Is this normal? The H80i has great cooling abilities, but I don't need them 90% of the time, when I'm writing or browsing the web. Are there any alternatives? I would prefer an All in One cooler with the same cooling abilities, but with the added option of being able to run slower and thus being quiet at idle.

In short: are there any GOOD AiO liquid coolers with variable speeds?


----------



## blackhole2013

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Travee*
> 
> Is it normal that the H80i is the loudest component in my case? I keep hearing the pump of the H80i when everything else is nearly unhearable at idle. Is this normal? The H80i has great cooling abilities, but I don't need them 90% of the time, when I'm writing or browsing the web. Are there any alternatives? I would prefer an All in One cooler with the same cooling abilities, but with the added option of being able to run slower and thus being quiet at idle.
> 
> In short: are there any GOOD AiO liquid coolers with variable speeds?


Yea h80s... i dont have the I version but they are all loud just get a quiet fan with a lot of air flow mine are aerocool sharks and i keep them just on low and they keep a 2600k quiet and cool even at 4.7 ghz 1.4v ... Im the king of quiet on my main computer I got an H90 dual quiet fans on my 4670k 4.7ghz and an asus direct cu 780 and a Thor case and while gaming hardcore oced I barely hear the fans at all ...


----------



## Travee

Thanks for your reply. I know it was a newb question, but I had to ask it. I'd say I already invested in good quality fans. I have GT 14/15's and NF-F12's. Here starts my quest for a QUIET aio cooler.


----------



## darkelixa

I want a nzxt x61 just to see what it sounds like on silent lol


----------



## Regnitto

I ended up deciding on an h100i. the fact that my local best buy stocks them was a big factor. "gotta have it now" instant gratification. picking it up tomorrow after work.


----------



## 72bluenova

Got the RMA approved.







But they need to figure out a better way to secure the hose to the barb.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *72bluenova*
> 
> Got the RMA approved.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But they need to figure out a better way to secure the hose to the barb.


Some zip ties or hose clamps preferably... problem solved







(just don't over tighten them).


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I think they should put rotating fittings on the radiator so you can flip it at any angle and not bind the hoses up at certain angles.


----------



## Regnitto

Just got my H100i installed. will post pics shortly


----------



## Regnitto




----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Just got a H110 temps idle @ XMP overclock x99
> 
> Idle @ 9c
> Max temps - 30c
> 
> Swiftech h220
> 
> Stock idle 30c
> Max temps 104c
> 
> Had a problem i guess


Idle 9c? Unless you were in a room that was as chilly cold as 9c, that seems a little impossible. A water cooler can never cool below ambient temperature. If it's operating at room temperature (approx 21 or 22c), then the CPU can never go below that. 30c at maximum load seems low as well. Of course, you're using am AMD cpu, so there's no telling if the temperature sensor is accurate.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice job. Looks good. Close fit eh?


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Nice job. Looks good. Close fit eh?


Looks like a close fit near the side panel but actually got plenty of room up there. As long as I stick to low profile RAM I have plenty of room for push/pull

A few hours after installation, one of the 200mm fans above the radiator started making noise...perhaps the air coming from the h100i fans at max speed caused it to spin too fast and mess up the motor?


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Could just be turbulence. Is it permanent or only when the H100i fans are on? Have you tried changing the speed of the fans?

The push fan on my H80i would get really loud and rattling sounding if both fans were set to 100%. Instead of keeping both at a low speed, I just took off the pull fan. It didn't seem to make a difference in temps.


----------



## Margammor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> I want a nzxt x61 just to see what it sounds like on silent lol


The x61 is dead silent, however.... That all is bound by your fan choice. The NZXT fans are really good, but there are better noctuas with higher CFM, but at the expense of more noise....l


----------



## DrockinWV

I just downloaded version 2.7.5361 of Corsair Link and now I cannot find the option to change the color of the LEDs on the CPU block. I have had problems using Link with Win 8.1 before, but I thought all of that was fixed with new updates of the Link software. Does anyone know how I can bring this option up in this version? Thanks!!


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> I just downloaded version 2.7.5361 of Corsair Link and now I cannot find the option to change the color of the LEDs on the CPU block. I have had problems using Link with Win 8.1 before, but I thought all of that was fixed with new updates of the Link software. Does anyone know how I can bring this option up in this version? Thanks!!


Give this a go:




Backup your registry files of course before you try anything.

Also, found a Corsair thread that might give you some ideas: http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=133235&highlight=h100i+led

And from what I remember I had the missing LED option as well running 8.1 Pro and ended up just unplugging the USB then re-connecting while idling.

Might work for you.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> Give this a go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Backup your registry files of course before you try anything.
> 
> Also, found a Corsair thread that might give you some ideas: http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=133235&highlight=h100i+led
> 
> And from what I remember I had the missing LED option as well running 8.1 Pro and ended up just unplugging the USB then re-connecting while idling.
> 
> Might work for you.


This is exactly what I was looking for, thanks!!!


----------



## Jaren1

Replaced my year and a half old H55 with an H80i that I got from Frys for $69

https://flic.kr/p/pdek2DNew H80i and GTX980 by awdftw!, on Flickr


----------



## DiceAir

So i have 2 choices. The corsair h75 and the corsair h80i.

In South African Rands the h80i = R1153 and the h75 = R1005 per cooler and I would need 2 of them. The advantage of the h80i is that I can use corsair link but the radiator is thicker and I might be tight on room in my case. Then the advantage of the h75 is that it's a thinner rad so would be a much easier fit.

Doesn't matter what cooler I go with I will go with cougar vortex pwm in push pull anyway and they rather quiet even on full load they don't make much noise. I currently have 3 of them in front and when gaming they run on full load anyway and they make little noise. When on idle they run at the lowest speed. i think if I keep doing that I might be able to keep cool and have lower noise and lower temps.When putting my hands between the cards and fans I can feel they pushing a lot of air so it's not liek they don't push air and my gpu's running hot. So can you guys tell me if the h80i is worth the extra bucks or if I should be super fine with h75.

My current case is the air 540 and my current gpu temps on my r9 280x's is 77-85C top cad and 65 -77C bottom card when undervolted from 1.265V to 1.219V when playing BF4. But on a very hot day here it's a little bit higher. I would love to overclock these cards but the temps is a bit higher. I guess the h75 can't be that bad.

I think the cooler on the club3d r9 280x doesn't work very well in crossfire.


----------



## UZ7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> I just downloaded version 2.7.5361 of Corsair Link and now I cannot find the option to change the color of the LEDs on the CPU block. I have had problems using Link with Win 8.1 before, but I thought all of that was fixed with new updates of the Link software. Does anyone know how I can bring this option up in this version? Thanks!!


http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=120962

I remember only doing the registry part, not the other stuff.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UZ7*
> 
> http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=120962
> 
> I remember only doing the registry part, not the other stuff.


That's how I got mine working, only i found that solution in a youtube video, not via that forum. sorry I don't have a link at the moment.


----------



## DrockinWV

Yeah the registry part works like a charm!


----------



## DiceAir

So still my question is should i go for h75 or h80i. please read my post above and advice as i want to try and order the 2 units today.


----------



## Regnitto

I tucked a Logisys blue led Sunlight Stick behind my radiator. These things are bright!


----------



## NorKris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> So still my question is should i go for h75 or h80i. please read my post above and advice as i want to try and order the 2 units today.


1) is money no question? i mean the H80i is more expensive?
2) do u have free Internal USB headers?
3) do u have space in the pc-case for the thicker H80i

If the answers is No, Yes, Yes then go with the better cooler and Fancontrolling(and software) H80i


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> 1) is money no question? i mean the H80i is more expensive?
> *2) do u have free Internal USB headers?*
> 3) do u have space in the pc-case for the thicker H80i
> 
> If the answers is No, Yes, Yes then go with the better cooler and Fancontrolling(and software) H80i


If you don't have enough usb headers you can also run a usb to mini usb cable from your I/O panel to the block. I did that briefly with my H100i while I was trying to figure out the windows 8.1 issue. Once I finally learned about the registry changes and got that fixed, I was still plugged into my I/O then moved it back to the header shortly thereafter.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

You could also use an NZXT Internal USB Expansion Board.
http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-IU01-Internal-Expansion-Black/dp/B0031ESKJA

Plug and play. Works awesome.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> You could also use an NZXT Internal USB Expansion Board.
> http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-IU01-Internal-Expansion-Black/dp/B0031ESKJA
> 
> Plug and play. Works awesome.


That works too. I just grabbed a ps3 controller charger cable, lol. was able to run it neatly through an unused liquid cooling grommet in the back of my case. That was also before I learned about the 8.1 compatibility issue and was thinking my extra usb header was dead. ran that cable to see if it would work in a different usb.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> So still my question is should i go for h75 or h80i. please read my post above and advice as i want to try and order the 2 units today.


In my opinion, the Corsair Link isn't worth paying for.

As well, how can we recommend what you should purchase if we don't know how much room you have in your case? It's time to pull out a measuring tape, measure the space you have and compare it to the dimensions of the two rads. We can't do that for you.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> In my opinion, the Corsair Link isn't worth paying for.
> 
> As well, how can we recommend what you should purchase if we don't know how much room you have in your case? It's time to pull out a measuring tape, measure the space you have and compare it to the dimensions of the two rads. We can't do that for you.


I know you can't but lets say I have room for both. But I don't know if the h80i is worth the extra amount. Seeing that i will run with some cougar vortex fans I have in my case and I have extra 2 of them here. can the h80i justify the extra price premium than the h75 even if I have lot's of room. I'm still actually deciding if this cooler will be worth it as I'm already on h100i for the cpu and want to use this for the 2 r9 280x cards but then I was thinking maybe I should hold out and rather save that money towards replacing my gpu's with Nvidia gtx 970/980. I will be better off with 1 gpu anyway temps and convenience. less frame stutter and none of that sli performance issues etc etc.


----------



## ThornTwist

If you're looking to get into doing a custom water loop, I'm doing a build log (in sig) where I am doing the same thing and you might just learn something because I am going into it without know hardly anything about the process.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I know you can't but lets say I have room for both. But I don't know if the h80i is worth the extra amount. Seeing that i will run with some cougar vortex fans I have in my case and I have extra 2 of them here. can the h80i justify the extra price premium than the h75 even if I have lot's of room. I'm still actually deciding if this cooler will be worth it as I'm already on h100i for the cpu and want to use this for the 2 r9 280x cards but then I was thinking maybe I should hold out and rather save that money towards replacing my gpu's with Nvidia gtx 970/980. I will be better off with 1 gpu anyway temps and convenience. less frame stutter and none of that sli performance issues etc etc.


I would recommend googling "Corsair H80 vs H75" and see what comes up. I'm sure there are lots of comparisons people have already done regarding temperature differences. However, if you going to be using them for GPUs, just about any water cooler (even the cheapest one) will way outperform the air coolers that come on video cards. I might have a link for you....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSK4M0FIs7M

Watch that video and listen to the part where the reviewer talks about why he selected the cheapest water cooler Corsair has for the review. You will get a huge cooling difference on a gpu no matter what water cooler you use.


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Is this thread still alive? I just came across it and I got an H80i.


----------



## blackhole2013

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awesomeguy10578*
> 
> Is this thread still alive? I just came across it and I got an H80i.


Really didn't you read the post above yours was only 6 hrs before you ????


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackhole2013*
> 
> Really didn't you read the post above yours was only 6 hrs before you ????


Whoops, I didn't check the last page.







I just saw the spreadsheets doesn't work, so how do I sign up?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awesomeguy10578*
> 
> Whoops, I didn't check the last page.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just saw the spreadsheets doesn't work, so how do I sign up?


I don't think anyone is modding this thread anymore. Thus, I don't think anyone has access to fix the spreadsheet. Just grab the sig from the first page and POW, you're a member.


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I don't think anyone is modding this thread anymore. Thus, I don't think anyone has access to fix the spreadsheet. Just grab the sig from the first page and POW, you're a member.


Hahaha ok then.


----------



## darkelixa

Installed my h105 last weekend Installed all fine, booted the pc to hear alot of water going around for about 5-10 seconds, it then settled down. Is it normal to hear the water to cycle around for the first time? Also sometimes when i boot the pc up ill hear the water for like 1 second and then wont hear it again?


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Installed my h105 last weekend Installed all fine, booted the pc to hear alot of water going around for about 5-10 seconds, it then settled down. Is it normal to hear the water to cycle around for the first time? Also sometimes when i boot the pc up ill hear the water for like 1 second and then wont hear it again?


Yeah I think that's normal, my H110 does that too.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Installed my h105 last weekend Installed all fine, booted the pc to hear alot of water going around for about 5-10 seconds, it then settled down. Is it normal to hear the water to cycle around for the first time? Also sometimes when i boot the pc up ill hear the water for like 1 second and then wont hear it again?


And my H110 did that, too.


----------



## darkelixa

Ah ok, so its not some weird air bubble or anything, just normal?


----------



## Obyboby

Something weird that is happening to my H110 these days.. after swapping out my motherboard and CPU, I reassembled my rig but there is an annoying noise coming from the pump/radiator.

I am aware that the system will be buzzing a bit and that this is normal, but there is this noise that kind of added up to the other "standard" noise. It's something cyclic, it happens every like 10-15 seconds, buzzes for like 10 seconds, then stops.. it's really low, but since I'm trying to make my rig as quiet as possible, I have to get rid of it. Plus, I'm pretty sure that my radiator didn't make this noise before swapping out those parts. Any ideas on what it could be? It's really driving me crazy guys.


----------



## VSG

A cycling long buzz could be a long air bubble in a low flow rate loop. Not my first inclination with a sealed AIO but you never know. If not that then see if you get permission from Corsair to open the the top and check for any visible damage with the pump motor.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obyboby*
> 
> Something weird that is happening to my H110 these days.. after swapping out my motherboard and CPU, I reassembled my rig but there is an annoying noise coming from the pump/radiator.
> 
> I am aware that the system will be buzzing a bit and that this is normal, but there is this noise that kind of added up to the other "standard" noise. It's something cyclic, it happens every like 10-15 seconds, buzzes for like 10 seconds, then stops.. it's really low, but since I'm trying to make my rig as quiet as possible, I have to get rid of it. Plus, I'm pretty sure that my radiator didn't make this noise before swapping out those parts. Any ideas on what it could be? It's really driving me crazy guys.


I had something like that, I fixed it by tightening the screws that hold the rad & fans till they wouldn't go any further.


----------



## Obyboby

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> A cycling long buzz could be a long air bubble in a low flow rate loop. Not my first inclination with a sealed AIO but you never know. If not that then see if you get permission from Corsair to open the the top and check for any visible damage with the pump motor.


Could I just like, fix it by shaking the radiator? I'm too afraid it won't work anymore if I opened it and mess up the circuit and sealing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> I had something like that, I fixed it by tightening the screws that hold the rad & fans till they wouldn't go any further.


Well that's the first thing I tried, the screws should be all tightened up but still no luck







and this noise is so annoying..


----------



## VSG

If it is an air bubble, and I am still not sure it is, then you may have to RMA it. The sealing may not have been done properly, and nothing you will will get it to escape from a minuscule issue with the sealing- definitely won't be a hole large enough for air to escape, but air can get in.


----------



## Obyboby

Oh god..... I will have to investigate then and confirm the source of this noise.







how can I do that? I really have no idea what to do.


----------



## VSG

I could very well be wrong about this, my very first CLC is getting here sometime next week only. So maybe owners with experience can chime in here also. I will tag in @Corsair Joseph in here so he can help out tomorrow- great guy!


----------



## blackhole2013

I got to say with my 4670k my H90 pretty much maxes out at 1.3v 4.7 ghz if i give it 1.35 or above 80c+ temps but at 1.3 4.7 ghz max temps around 70c I tell ya haswell such bad tim I can get my Pentium g3258 oced to 4.5 1.3 on stock cooler they did so much better with devils canyon tim .. just what were they thinking with og haswell ...


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackhole2013*
> 
> I got to say with my 4670k my H90 pretty much maxes out at 1.3v 4.7 ghz if i give it 1.35 or above 80c+ temps but at 1.3 4.7 ghz max temps around 70c I tell ya haswell such bad tim I can get my Pentium g3258 oced to 4.5 1.3 on stock cooler they did so much better with devils canyon tim .. just what were they thinking with og haswell ...


Exactly, I used to own a 4670K and it maxes out at 4.2GHz at 1.230V and that's already licking the 85C range with x264 and an H80i, not to mention it's frequency wall is 4.3GHz at 1.37V which is totally unusable at that setting. And I felt like my great motherboard and cooler was wasted for nothing by a bad chip so I sold it and got a 4690K, this time I can get it to 4.6GHz with 1.270V and not even get close to 80C on x264!!! Devil's Canyon is great improvement.


----------



## Obyboby

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I could very well be wrong about this, my very first CLC is getting here sometime next week only. So maybe owners with experience can chime in here also. I will tag in @Corsair Joseph in here so he can help out tomorrow- great guy!


Thanks for your interest - hopefully I'll get some advice and fix this stupid issue. It is literally ruining the whole "Dead Silence" project I'm trying to complete.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obyboby*
> 
> Something weird that is happening to my H110 these days.. after swapping out my motherboard and CPU, I reassembled my rig but there is an annoying noise coming from the pump/radiator.
> 
> I am aware that the system will be buzzing a bit and that this is normal, but there is this noise that kind of added up to the other "standard" noise. It's something cyclic, it happens every like 10-15 seconds, buzzes for like 10 seconds, then stops.. it's really low, but since I'm trying to make my rig as quiet as possible, I have to get rid of it. Plus, I'm pretty sure that my radiator didn't make this noise before swapping out those parts. Any ideas on what it could be? It's really driving me crazy guys.


Sounds like a trapped air inside the loop. Try tilting the case or maybe lay it flat and see if the noise cycle changes..If it does, keep it in that position until the noise goes away... I hope its not a pump issue, if it is, then you may have to apply for an RMA. So don't open the pump cover, you don't want to void your warranty.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obyboby*
> 
> Something weird that is happening to my H110 these days.. after swapping out my motherboard and CPU, I reassembled my rig but there is an annoying noise coming from the pump/radiator.
> 
> I am aware that the system will be buzzing a bit and that this is normal, but there is this noise that kind of added up to the other "standard" noise. It's something cyclic, it happens every like 10-15 seconds, buzzes for like 10 seconds, then stops.. it's really low, but since I'm trying to make my rig as quiet as possible, I have to get rid of it. Plus, I'm pretty sure that my radiator didn't make this noise before swapping out those parts. Any ideas on what it could be? It's really driving me crazy guys.


You mean the pump is making the noise or do you mean the rad is making the noise? If it's the rad, then something in the case, most likely a fan, is causing a vibration. Make sure the fans are clean and the blades are not touching anything (like a wire). Make sure the fan-mounting screws and the rad screws are tight. Make sure none of the other fans in your case are causing a vibration.

If you mean the pump is making the noise, unmount it again, reseat the backplate and remount the pump. Make sure the screws are snug enough. You can even shake the pump slightly to make sure any air that could be trapped moves into the hoses and then into the rad.


----------



## Obyboby

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Sounds like a trapped air inside the loop. Try tilting the case or maybe lay it flat and see if the noise cycle changes..If it does, keep it in that position until the noise goes away... I hope its not a pump issue, if it is, then you may have to apply for an RMA. So don't open the pump cover, you don't want to void your warranty.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> You mean the pump is making the noise or do you mean the rad is making the noise? If it's the rad, then something in the case, most likely a fan, is causing a vibration. Make sure the fans are clean and the blades are not touching anything (like a wire). Make sure the fan-mounting screws and the rad screws are tight. Make sure none of the other fans in your case are causing a vibration.
> 
> If you mean the pump is making the noise, unmount it again, reseat the backplate and remount the pump. Make sure the screws are snug enough. You can even shake the pump slightly to make sure any air that could be trapped moves into the hoses and then into the rad.


Thank you both for your reply
















Alright, let's go through the steps I've taken before running into this noise:

- Mounted the rad on my old 2600k, using Corsair provided thermal compound
- Everything is ok, only the pump is making a continous buzzing noise (which is fine)
- Remove stock Corsair fans and install 4xAerocool Dead Silence fans, everything is ok, no weird noises so far
- Finally my new i7 4790k gets delivered and I proceed to upgrade my rig with new motherboard (see signature, coming from ASRock P67 Fatal1ty Performance) with the new CPU as well, using Prolimatech PK-3 thermal paste
- Proceed to remount everything including the radiator with 2+2 push'n'pull fans
- Switch on upgraded rig, reinstall OS and everything
- I notice the new cycling buzzing sound (it adds up to the existing pump buzzing, comes up every 10-15 seconds, lasts for 5-10 seconds, goes away, comes back in 10-15 secs, and so on)
- Tried to take out the rad and remount it tightening all the screws and including rubber "thickeners" (sorry bad translation.. rubber shim? How the hell do you call them lol), noise seems fixed, comes back after say 30 mins
- Also tried keeping all the fans off - noise doesn't stop.
- Tried keeping my case window open and IT SEEMS that the noise stops or at least it's less noticeable, but to be honest, I excluded any vibration hypothesis.
- I've checked and haven't noticed any wires coming in contact with the fans (and also, as mentioned above, the noise is present even with the fans off)

I would exclude a pump noise as if I place my ear next to the pump (right on top of the CPU socket) I realize the noise comes from above, closer to the radiator zone than the CPU zone.

And here we are. Now it seems the noise is happening even more often and lasts longer. I will try and take out the whole heatsink and try again, even though I didn't want to as the thermal compound was applied properly and temps are good and I didn't want to take it off. Anyway, if that could fix the issue, I will definitely try it. Maybe on thursday night. I really hope I won't have to RMA it cause I have no replacements to install in the meantime (definitely not going to use Intel's stock heatsink)


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Goddamn but i love this site. A h-series thread? Great idea!

I'm considering picking up either a h100i or an h110. I've got an old TRUE 120mm which had kept everything I've owned for the last decade nice and cool; it currently has a high pressure PWM fan with splitter, and i use that PWM splitter to control my case fans from a single header.

The reason for picking up one or the other of the hydro coolers is long term I'd like to move to a smaller form factor during my next major upgrade - either a node 804, air 240 or 250D. Getting a hydro of some sort is a requisite.

So then - I've really got two questions:

a) which of the two hydro coolers (h100i/h110) has the quieter pump? Fans i can replace if they're noisy, but pumps you're stuck with. So, idle vs load pump noise is the main consideration.

b) do either of them use PWM to ckntrol fan speed? Ideally id like to use a powered PWM spkitter to use my CPU fan speed signal to control my case fan speed.

Thank you for any help/advice you can offer!


----------



## LostParticle

Hi guys

I am looking to get the backplate for Intel because something happened... Specifically, I am looking to get this item:



I am also interested in getting two (2) pieces of the the adhesive backing.

Does anyone know from where can I get this and how much does it cost, please?

Thank you.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Goddamn but i love this site. A h-series thread? Great idea!
> 
> I'm considering picking up either a h100i or an h110. I've got an old TRUE 120mm which had kept everything I've owned for the last decade nice and cool; it currently has a high pressure PWM fan with splitter, and i use that PWM splitter to control my case fans from a single header.
> 
> The reason for picking up one or the other of the hydro coolers is long term I'd like to move to a smaller form factor during my next major upgrade - either a node 804, air 240 or 250D. Getting a hydro of some sort is a requisite.
> 
> So then - I've really got two questions:
> 
> a) which of the two hydro coolers (h100i/h110) has the quieter pump? Fans i can replace if they're noisy, but pumps you're stuck with. So, idle vs load pump noise is the main consideration.
> 
> b) do either of them use PWM to ckntrol fan speed? Ideally id like to use a powered PWM spkitter to use my CPU fan speed signal to control my case fan speed.
> 
> Thank you for any help/advice you can offer!


I can't speak for the h110, but my h100i pump is nice and quiet. The fans aren't bad either as long as you don't run them full blast, they are also pwm. Your splitter won't be nessicary with the h100i as it comes with 2 splitters for the Corsair Link fan connections on the pump, allowing you to hook up to 4 fans to the pump and control them with the Corsair Link software. If you are running on Windows 8.1 you may want to read through the previous posts for info about editing registry settings for the USB controllers for Link to work properly though....


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> I am looking to get the backplate for Intel because something happened... Specifically, I am looking to get this item:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know from where can I get this and how much does it cost, please?
> 
> Thank you.


LGA1150 and LGA1155 sockets have the same holes for mounting CPU coolers,so you could try in Corsair's site depending your cooler
this or this .

You can also ask a Corsair Rep here on OCN if these doesn't suit you..


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> LGA1150 and LGA1155 sockets have the same holes for mounting CPU coolers,so you could try in Corsair's site depending your cooler
> this or this .
> 
> You can also ask a Corsair Rep here on OCN if these doesn't suit you..


Thanks for your reply









As shown in my rig I have an H110 with an Intel i7-4790K. So, which one is appropriate for me, you think?


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> As shown in my rig I have an H110 with an Intel i7-4790K. So, which one is appropriate for me, you think?


That would be the first link , but after looking at it more thoroughly , I'm not sure if the backplate is indeed included in the mounting kit..at least it's not mentioned in the item description..

So,since you need only the backplate you could try this kit that definitely includes a backplate..As I said before the holes of Lga1155&1150 are the same,so you won't have any problem..

Sorry if I wasn't much help..

You could always PM a Corsair Rep here to answer any questions you might have..They are very helpful


----------



## LostParticle

@mAs81, thanks for your support +REP









Okay, so I will be waiting for @Corsair Joseph to inform me accurately on my inquiry, post #25831. Please, Joesph, provide the items' code numbers (and links), as well, so that I'll be sure to get the right products.

Thank you, people!


----------



## Obyboby

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Sounds like a trapped air inside the loop. Try tilting the case or maybe lay it flat and see if the noise cycle changes..If it does, keep it in that position until the noise goes away... I hope its not a pump issue, if it is, then you may have to apply for an RMA. So don't open the pump cover, you don't want to void your warranty.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> You mean the pump is making the noise or do you mean the rad is making the noise? If it's the rad, then something in the case, most likely a fan, is causing a vibration. Make sure the fans are clean and the blades are not touching anything (like a wire). Make sure the fan-mounting screws and the rad screws are tight. Make sure none of the other fans in your case are causing a vibration.
> 
> If you mean the pump is making the noise, unmount it again, reseat the backplate and remount the pump. Make sure the screws are snug enough. You can even shake the pump slightly to make sure any air that could be trapped moves into the hoses and then into the rad.


Hey there.

So I'm here next to my PC and it's laying down flat on my desk as suggested. NO NOISE!!! OMG, does it mean it's trapped air in the circuit? I've been running it for like 10 minutes, the noise should have been coming up already, more than once. So I guess there are no faults in the pump?
I'm going out for a couple of hours, I'm switching off the machine and then put it back up vertically on the desk, and hope for the best when I turn it on.
Fingers crossed


----------



## Obyboby

Sorry for double posting.... So as long as my PC is down flat, the radiator makes no noise. When it's vertically up on the desk, it does happen. ***, I'm really going crazy with this.......


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Goddamn but i love this site. A h-series thread? Great idea!
> 
> I'm considering picking up either a h100i or an h110. I've got an old TRUE 120mm which had kept everything I've owned for the last decade nice and cool; it currently has a high pressure PWM fan with splitter, and i use that PWM splitter to control my case fans from a single header.
> 
> The reason for picking up one or the other of the hydro coolers is long term I'd like to move to a smaller form factor during my next major upgrade - either a node 804, air 240 or 250D. Getting a hydro of some sort is a requisite.
> 
> So then - I've really got two questions:
> 
> a) which of the two hydro coolers (h100i/h110) has the quieter pump? Fans i can replace if they're noisy, but pumps you're stuck with. So, idle vs load pump noise is the main consideration.
> 
> b) do either of them use PWM to ckntrol fan speed? Ideally id like to use a powered PWM spkitter to use my CPU fan speed signal to control my case fan speed.
> 
> Thank you for any help/advice you can offer!


I think the H100i uses PWM fans, They were using 3-pin I think, but there was a problem. Corsair replaced them with PWM versions and problem was solved. However, personally I would go with the H110 and if it doesn't have PWM fans, use you own. I'm sure someone here with an H110 can tell us if their fans are 4-pin or 3-pin.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obyboby*
> 
> Sorry for double posting.... So as long as my PC is down flat, the radiator makes no noise. When it's vertically up on the desk, it does happen. ***, I'm really going crazy with this.......


I'm still not 100% sure of you are having a rad noise issue or a pump/block noise issue. When the noise happens, try pushing and squeezing on different portions of your case and radiator to see if a case part is vibrating. You should be able to tell.
If it was just air in the pump/block, good job narrowing it down.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Goddamn but i love this site. A h-series thread? Great idea!
> 
> I'm considering picking up either a h100i or an h110. I've got an old TRUE 120mm which had kept everything I've owned for the last decade nice and cool; it currently has a high pressure PWM fan with splitter, and i use that PWM splitter to control my case fans from a single header.
> 
> The reason for picking up one or the other of the hydro coolers is long term I'd like to move to a smaller form factor during my next major upgrade - either a node 804, air 240 or 250D. Getting a hydro of some sort is a requisite.
> 
> So then - I've really got two questions:
> 
> a) which of the two hydro coolers (h100i/h110) has the quieter pump? Fans i can replace if they're noisy, but pumps you're stuck with. So, idle vs load pump noise is the main consideration.
> 
> b) do either of them use PWM to ckntrol fan speed? Ideally id like to use a powered PWM spkitter to use my CPU fan speed signal to control my case fan speed.
> 
> Thank you for any help/advice you can offer!


The H110 has the better and quieter pump (you can't hear it at all







) and it also has 4-pin PWM fans.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> @mAs81, thanks for your support +REP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, so I will be waiting for @Corsair Joseph to inform me accurately on my inquiry, post #25831. Please, Joesph, provide the items' code numbers (and links), as well, so that I'll be sure to get the right products.
> 
> Thank you, people!


The correct part # for the H110 Intel bracket kit is CW-8960013. But for some odd reason its not listed on our website. I'd suggest that you submit an RMA request for it. That's probably the only way you can get it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obyboby*
> 
> Sorry for double posting.... So as long as my PC is down flat, the radiator makes no noise. When it's vertically up on the desk, it does happen. ***, I'm really going crazy with this.......


When you say "the radiator makes no noise" you really mean the pump right?

How long did you have your system on its side? It'll probably take a little longer before the noise completely goes away. If it doesn't go away even after leaving the system on its side overnight, then the pump probably has problem when running up right.


----------



## Ceadderman

Try rapping on the tubes with an unsharpened pencil while it is operating. I had this happen while I was on my H50. Rapped on the tubes with some minor force like tapping on my desk during a test and that cleared the noise right up. I've suggested same for others here with similar results.

System might just have a minor airlock going on.









~Ceadder


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Try *rapping on the tubes with an unsharpened pencil* while it is operating. I had this happen while I was on my H50. Rapped on the tubes with some minor force like tapping on my desk during a test and that cleared the noise right up. I've suggested same for others here with similar results.
> 
> System might just have a minor airlock going on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Basically, do a little drum solo on the tubes....I like that idea!


----------



## Regnitto

I am looking for some opinions. This is not an h-series related question, but a general AIO question. I will be getting a VisionTek R9 290 and a Cooler Master Seidon 120xl tomorrow with the intent on doing a "Red Mod" to the gpu. Due to the thickness of the radiator and the push/pull configuration that comes with the 120xl, my only good mounting location for the radiator is on the bottom of my case. I really don't want to make my pump the highest point in the system in case of air pockets in the system cavitating my pump........in your opinions should I look for a different way to mount my radiator (either mod a mount on my hdd cages or on the back exhaust location requiring me to reorient my h100i radiator so that it's tubes don't interfere with the 120xl fan blades) or am I just being paranoid and the radiator will be fine on the bottom of my case. I'm getting both of these items used, so I don't have a warranty to RMA if something happens.


----------



## Obyboby

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> The correct part # for the H110 Intel bracket kit is CW-8960013. But for some odd reason its not listed on our website. I'd suggest that you submit an RMA request for it. That's probably the only way you can get it.
> When you say "the radiator makes no noise" you really mean the pump right?
> 
> How long did you have your system on its side? It'll probably take a little longer before the noise completely goes away. If it doesn't go away even after leaving the system on its side overnight, then the pump probably has problem when running up right.


Ok so this morning I switched my computer on, moving the case on its side, and left for work. Will be home in 5 hours so that will be a total of about 8 hours laying on the side. The pump will have been working for the whole day so hopefully it will get fixed.

BTW - No, when i say that the radiator makes noise, i mean that the buzzing sound comes from there, right from inside the radiator (or at least it sounds like it's coming from there) but definitely not from the pump that sits on top of the CPU socket!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Try rapping on the tubes with an unsharpened pencil while it is operating. I had this happen while I was on my H50. Rapped on the tubes with some minor force like tapping on my desk during a test and that cleared the noise right up. I've suggested same for others here with similar results.
> 
> System might just have a minor airlock going on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thank you so much for your input. I will definitely try that before turning my PC back up as soon as I get home.


----------



## SupahSpankeh

So, srsly, which has the quieter pump? H100i or H110?


----------



## UZ7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> So, srsly, which has the quieter pump? H100i or H110?


Hard to say. My H80i had a slight buzzing sound that I thought I needed to replace it but went away after a while. My H110 had a really loud buzzing sound and the only way to get rid of it was to lower the pump speed but I didn't want to run it at half the speed it was rated for so I ended up returning that.

But that's just my experience as I'm pretty sure most people are happy with theirs


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UZ7*
> 
> Hard to say. My H80i had a slight buzzing sound that I thought I needed to replace it but went away after a while. My H110 had a really loud buzzing sound and the only way to get rid of it was to lower the pump speed but I didn't want to run it at half the speed it was rated for so I ended up returning that.
> 
> But that's just my experience as I'm pretty sure most people are happy with theirs


Thanks v much. I'm sitting quite close to my PC do I'm loathe to suffer a loud pump. It'd drive me mad.


----------



## UZ7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Thanks v much. I'm sitting quite close to my PC do I'm loathe to suffer a loud pump. It'd drive me mad.


I mean that could be said with anything, for example the chance of getting a video card with loud coil whine or getting a faulty part.

So I wouldn't say a particular model will "have" loud(er) pump or buzzing over the other, but pretty much all of them may have a chance, even custom loops may have loud pumps and its just a matter of getting it replaced/exchanged if that does happen, its a hassle but thats what I would do if I wasn't happy with my purchase


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obyboby*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> The correct part # for the H110 Intel bracket kit is CW-8960013. But for some odd reason its not listed on our website. I'd suggest that you submit an RMA request for it. That's probably the only way you can get it.
> When you say "the radiator makes no noise" you really mean the pump right?
> 
> How long did you have your system on its side? It'll probably take a little longer before the noise completely goes away. If it doesn't go away even after leaving the system on its side overnight, then the pump probably has problem when running up right.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok so this morning I switched my computer on, moving the case on its side, and left for work. Will be home in 5 hours so that will be a total of about 8 hours laying on the side. The pump will have been working for the whole day so hopefully it will get fixed.
> 
> BTW - No, when i say that the radiator makes noise, i mean that the buzzing sound comes from there, right from inside the radiator (or at least it sounds like it's coming from there) but definitely not from the pump that sits on top of the CPU socket!
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Try rapping on the tubes with an unsharpened pencil while it is operating. I had this happen while I was on my H50. Rapped on the tubes with some minor force like tapping on my desk during a test and that cleared the noise right up. I've suggested same for others here with similar results.
> 
> System might just have a minor airlock going on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thank you so much for your input. I will definitely try that before turning my PC back up as soon as I get home.
Click to expand...

Are u running the radiator vertically or horizontally? My other recomendation would be taht if u run vertically is to have the ports at the bottom. This basically makes the other end an air trap.

~Ceadder


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obyboby*
> 
> Ok so this morning I switched my computer on, moving the case on its side, and left for work. Will be home in 5 hours so that will be a total of about 8 hours laying on the side. The pump will have been working for the whole day so hopefully it will get fixed.
> 
> BTW - No, when i say that the radiator makes noise, i mean that the buzzing sound comes from there, right from inside the radiator (or at least it sounds like it's coming from there) but definitely not from the pump that sits on top of the CPU socket!
> Thank you so much for your input. I will definitely try that before turning my PC back up as soon as I get home.


Thanks for clarifying that. You could also try tapping the pump gently while the system is on its side. Also, try what Ceadderman suggested, tap the tubes as well. We've suggested that to those who had a similar issue with our coolers and they seem to be effective.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> So, srsly, which has the quieter pump? H100i or H110?


I've responded to your PM.


----------



## Obyboby

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Obyboby*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> The correct part # for the H110 Intel bracket kit is CW-8960013. But for some odd reason its not listed on our website. I'd suggest that you submit an RMA request for it. That's probably the only way you can get it.
> When you say "the radiator makes no noise" you really mean the pump right?
> 
> How long did you have your system on its side? It'll probably take a little longer before the noise completely goes away. If it doesn't go away even after leaving the system on its side overnight, then the pump probably has problem when running up right.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok so this morning I switched my computer on, moving the case on its side, and left for work. Will be home in 5 hours so that will be a total of about 8 hours laying on the side. The pump will have been working for the whole day so hopefully it will get fixed.
> 
> BTW - No, when i say that the radiator makes noise, i mean that the buzzing sound comes from there, right from inside the radiator (or at least it sounds like it's coming from there) but definitely not from the pump that sits on top of the CPU socket!
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Try rapping on the tubes with an unsharpened pencil while it is operating. I had this happen while I was on my H50. Rapped on the tubes with some minor force like tapping on my desk during a test and that cleared the noise right up. I've suggested same for others here with similar results.
> 
> System might just have a minor airlock going on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thank you so much for your input. I will definitely try that before turning my PC back up as soon as I get home.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Are u running the radiator vertically or horizontally? My other recomendation would be taht if u run vertically is to have the ports at the bottom. This basically makes the other end an air trap.
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

The Radiator is mounted horizontally (parallel to the desk surfafe) and I'm afraid I can't mount it differently.
















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Obyboby*
> 
> Ok so this morning I switched my computer on, moving the case on its side, and left for work. Will be home in 5 hours so that will be a total of about 8 hours laying on the side. The pump will have been working for the whole day so hopefully it will get fixed.
> 
> BTW - No, when i say that the radiator makes noise, i mean that the buzzing sound comes from there, right from inside the radiator (or at least it sounds like it's coming from there) but definitely not from the pump that sits on top of the CPU socket!
> Thank you so much for your input. I will definitely try that before turning my PC back up as soon as I get home.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for clarifying that. You could also try tapping the pump gently while the system is on its side. Also, try what Ceadderman suggested, tap the tubes as well. We've suggested that to those who had a similar issue with our coolers and they seem to be effective.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> So, srsly, which has the quieter pump? H100i or H110?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I've responded to your PM.
Click to expand...

Tried tapping the tubes for quite a while before moving the case up again but no luck. The noise is coming back again and it's happening even more often. I guess I will just have to live with it? Damn..














the only solution so far was to change the orientation of the radiator...


----------



## pLuhhmm

Hey guys, I got my replacement H110 from RMA a while ago, but I just got around to installing it. I think all my troubles from installing was from the defective model. More than the pump must have been off, because this was 100000x easier than before and I had another person help last time.


----------



## ZeroAlive

Could someone measure the height of the H60 se/ H80i waterblock please? from the base to the top i'm trying to plan out stuff.


----------



## Ceadderman

Since you're running horizontal Oby, there should be no reason to adjust its orientation. So I would suggest positioning your system so that it puts your radiator completely vertical with the ports positioned at the bottom. This way any air trapped will rise when you try rapping on the tubes again. Sometimes airlocks are a pain to aleviate, the temps afterward make it worthwhile.









~Ceadder


----------



## Obyboby

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Since you're running horizontal Oby, there should be no reason to adjust its orientation. So I would suggest positioning your system so that it puts your radiator completely vertical with the ports positioned at the bottom. This way any air trapped will rise when you try rapping on the tubes again. Sometimes airlocks are a pain to aleviate, the temps afterward make it worthwhile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


THanks dude, will try and unmount the radiator from the case, place it perpendicular to the desk and run it, then tap the pipes. I need to get rid of this noise once for all.


----------



## nezff

Im wondering if it would be ok to put two SP120 LED version fans on the H100? Im pretty positive that the unit wont control them, so maybe using the unit for power or just a three pin for power?

Also I find it weird that the original sp120 has higher specs than the same sp120 with LED?
SP120 with LED
Airflow 57.24 CFM
Static Pressure 1.46 mm/
Sound Level 26.4 dBA
Speed 1650 RPM
Power Usage 0.26 A

SP120 without LED
62.74 CFM
Static Pressure 3.1 mm/H20
Sound Level 35 dBA
Speed 2350 RPM
Power Draw 0.18 A


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obyboby*
> 
> The Radiator is mounted horizontally (parallel to the desk surfafe) and I'm afraid I can't mount it differently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried tapping the tubes for quite a while before moving the case up again but no luck. The noise is coming back again and it's happening even more often. I guess I will just have to live with it? Damn..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the only solution so far was to change the orientation of the radiator...


OK, now that we know for sure it's coming from your rad, in my opinion it is a fan causing the case to vibrate. It could be any fan in the system, and the loose-ish part is likely around the rad, which is why it's sounding like it's coming from the rad.

You say it was working fine until you replaced your motherboard, Your case was likely used to having the old motherboard and used to the pressure of the screws that mount the old motherboard. Once you took the old motherboard out, the case relaxed. When you installed your new motherboard, the case remained in the relaxed position, allowing some part that used to be fairly tight to loosen slightly, causing the noise you hear when one of the fans starts quietly vibrating.

I bet, that if you unplug the fans one at a time, you will find which fan is causing the vibration. The radiator itself is not able to cause a vibration because it has no moving parts.

If I was you, here is what I would do.


Unplug your case fans one at a time and see if the vibration stops.
Unplug your H100 fans one at a time and see if the vibration stops.
If any of those fans stop the vibration noise when they are unplugged, either replace the fan or use some rubber mounts.
If none of those stop the noise, unmount the radiator and set it to the side while running the computer upright and see if any noises show up.
If removing the rad stops the noise, I would recommend using rubber washers or grommets to remount the rad.
When you do the above tests, I would recommend unplugging the fans one at a time while you can hear the noise so you can be sure when you find the right one. I highly doubt anything else in the case can be causing a noise of this type except perhaps the power supply which, again, has a fan inside. If you try all the fans and the noise remains, try loosening the power supply screws and see if that makes a difference.

If a customer brought a computer into our shop complaining about this, those are the steps I would take to track down the problem.


----------



## bill1024

I had fans vibrate real bad on a rad mounted flat on top of the case. I turned the fans upside down the vibration went away.
Since I wanted the fans to exhaust and not be an intake, I had to replace the fans. I used the fans as exhaust mounted standing on edge they did not vibrate.
I never had fans do that before.


----------



## curly haired boy

yeah, i put a set of deltas on my rad because the SP120s hated being upside down....


----------



## Obyboby

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> OK, now that we know for sure it's coming from your rad, in my opinion it is a fan causing the case to vibrate. It could be any fan in the system, and the loose-ish part is likely around the rad, which is why it's sounding like it's coming from the rad.
> 
> You say it was working fine until you replaced your motherboard, Your case was likely used to having the old motherboard and used to the pressure of the screws that mount the old motherboard. Once you took the old motherboard out, the case relaxed. When you installed your new motherboard, the case remained in the relaxed position, allowing some part that used to be fairly tight to loosen slightly, causing the noise you hear when one of the fans starts quietly vibrating.
> 
> I bet, that if you unplug the fans one at a time, you will find which fan is causing the vibration. The radiator itself is not able to cause a vibration because it has no moving parts.
> 
> If I was you, here is what I would do.
> 
> 
> Unplug your case fans one at a time and see if the vibration stops.
> Unplug your H100 fans one at a time and see if the vibration stops.
> If any of those fans stop the vibration noise when they are unplugged, either replace the fan or use some rubber mounts.
> If none of those stop the noise, unmount the radiator and set it to the side while running the computer upright and see if any noises show up.
> If removing the rad stops the noise, I would recommend using rubber washers or grommets to remount the rad.
> When you do the above tests, I would recommend unplugging the fans one at a time while you can hear the noise so you can be sure when you find the right one. I highly doubt anything else in the case can be causing a noise of this type except perhaps the power supply which, again, has a fan inside. If you try all the fans and the noise remains, try loosening the power supply screws and see if that makes a difference.
> 
> If a customer brought a computer into our shop complaining about this, those are the steps I would take to track down the problem.


Thanks for you advice, buddy, but I'm afraid you missed this part: the noise is present even if ALL the case fans are switched off (0.0V on the Lamptron FC5v3 fan controller)


----------



## sugalumps

H100i in an nzxt 410, just got two noctua nf-f12s should I be using them as intakes to pull air from outside through the rad into the case or pushing air out the case through the rad and out the top of the case? Which set up is better for the gpu and cpu?

Fan set up - 2 noctua intakes at front and 1 noctua exhaust at the back.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obyboby*
> 
> Thanks for you advice, buddy, but I'm afraid you missed this part: the noise is present even if ALL the case fans are switched off (0.0V on the Lamptron FC5v3 fan controller)


Geeez, maybe there is a language barrier here? ... but either you skipped Merg's steps 2 & 4 or you didn't confirm your results for those tests?









I agree with Merg, giving your diagnosis so far, it has to be a fan vibration or metal to metal contact(vibration) with your case causing the problem









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> H100i in an nzxt 410, just got two noctua nf-f12s should I be using them as intakes to pull air from outside through the rad into the case or pushing air out the case through the rad and out the top of the case? Which set up is better for the gpu and cpu?
> 
> Fan set up - 2 noctua intakes at front and 1 noctua exhaust at the back.


This is one of the most popular questions asked and with your limited system info (see my sig or fill in your specs and overclocks) ... I'll give you a general answer in that in a case with good ventilation, and yours qualifies! ... there is no ideal setup for both the CPU and GPU(s) ...
In general, you "could" see appx a 1-3c increase in CPU temps under load with an average overclock if you use the Top exhaust method which many of us do because giving up 2c for CPU cooling in exchange for overall cooler case temps / motherboard temps / and GPU(s) temps is a good tradeoff depending on your overclocking priorities ...









But the real kicker/benefit is much less radiator cleaning/maintenance! ... especially if you live in even a moderately dusty environment ...
Try it both ways and see what works best for you, hope that helps get you started ...


----------



## Obyboby

My apologies if I misunderstood something - my english is not the best, I might be in fault now


----------



## Speedster159

Is the limit for tempreture on Corsair Link really 70c?

I want to setup a curve that can go to 90.


----------



## sugalumps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Geeez, maybe there is a language barrier here? ... but either you skipped Merg's steps 2 & 4 or you didn't confirm your results for those tests?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I agree with Merg, giving your diagnosis so far, it has to be a fan vibration or metal to metal contact(vibration) with your case causing the problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is one of the most popular questions asked and with your limited system info (see my sig or fill in your specs and overclocks) ... I'll give you a general answer in that in a case with good ventilation, and yours qualifies! ... there is no ideal setup for both the CPU and GPU(s) ...
> In general, you "could" see appx a 1-3c increase in CPU temps under load with an average overclock if you use the Top exhaust method which many of us do because giving up 2c for CPU cooling in exchange for overall cooler case temps / motherboard temps / and GPU(s) temps is a good tradeoff depending on your overclocking priorities ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the real kicker/benefit is much less radiator cleaning/maintenance! ... especially if you live in even a moderately dusty environment ...
> Try it both ways and see what works best for you, hope that helps get you started ...


Thank you









I5 4670k @ 4.4ghz
gtx 980 msi gaming
Corsair 850w fan facing upwards to gpu

Front 2 fans - noctua nf-s12a intakes
Exhaust - noctua nf-s12a
h100i rad fans - noctua nf-f12

I am rather confused, I just changed all my fans today before with the three stock nzxt fans and stock corsair h100i fans I was getting better temps. I had the stock 140mm in front intaking, the stock 120mm at the back exhausting and the last 120mm on the side panel as intake.

At 4.2ghz(dropped down to test new fans)
The h100i fans at 1200rpm would keep my cpu at 38-40c but now they are 40-44c with the noctua fans at 1200rpm, and with them at 1300rpm they are about 40. Which is disappointing but the real kicker is the gpu temp has went up 5c, it used to sit at 55c playing wow and 65 playing far cry 4 now it's 60 in wow and 70 in far cry.

If I am to change the fans to exhaust air out the top of the case, should I put them under the rad in the case pushing air through the rad up out of the case or put the two fans above the rad and pull the air through the rad and up out the case? As the fans have a lot of static pressure I am not sure which option is best - noctua nf-f12s.


----------



## ZeroAlive

Never got a reply when I asked and really need to know..

Could someone measure the height of the H60se/ H80i/H100i waterblock please? from the base to the top i'm trying to plan out stuff.


----------



## rotorwash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedster159*
> 
> Is the limit for tempreture on Corsair Link really 70c?
> 
> I want to setup a curve that can go to 90.


To answer your question, I don't know. I have a question, though. What device on your system do you expect to reach near 90C? Are you using a Cosair cooler with Corsair Link? The reason I ask is that I use the CPU coolant temp to regulate the fans on my H100i (which regulates my CPU temp) and it never goes above 37 - 38C so a 70C limit seems reasonable to me. Just inquiring


----------



## rotorwash

@sugalumps
Quote:


> If I am to change the fans to exhaust air out the top of the case, should I put them under the rad in the case pushing air through the rad up out of the case or put the two fans above the rad and pull the air through the rad and up out the case? As the fans have a lot of static pressure I am not sure which option is best - noctua nf-f12s.


I cannot speak for the Noctuas (I have a couple but have not installed them) but I tried installing both ways using the Corsair fans on H100i and I found that I got cooler temps with the fans exhausing air from the case through the radiator. My radiator is mounted inside the top of the case. Also, I believe that the stock Corsair fans has higher static pressure than the Noctuas (the Cosair can run at > 2400RPM). Your case fan placement has a lot to do with temps also.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obyboby*
> 
> Thanks for you advice, buddy, but I'm afraid you missed this part: the noise is present even if ALL the case fans are switched off (0.0V on the Lamptron FC5v3 fan controller)


OK, there is one more thing you can check, and that would be the hard drive. I have had hard drives that would make a vibrating noise intermittently. Some of them lasted years like this, and on others it was an indication of the drive starting to go bad.

That's about all that could make a noise in a computer. Non-moving parts just can't make noises. If you're sure it's not the pump, then the fans and hard drive are all that's left.


----------



## Ceadderman

I had solid results from my Yate Loons. They are cheap enough to make them worthwhile. But I would suggest AP15s over Noctua fans as they're made for Radiators. Even if u r paying $50 for a pair. Excellent fans for P/P.









~Ceadder


----------



## sugalumps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotorwash*
> 
> @sugalumps
> I cannot speak for the Noctuas (I have a couple but have not installed them) but I tried installing both ways using the Corsair fans on H100i and I found that I got cooler temps with the fans exhausing air from the case through the radiator. My radiator is mounted inside the top of the case. Also, I believe that the stock Corsair fans has higher static pressure than the Noctuas (the Cosair can run at > 2400RPM). Your case fan placement has a lot to do with temps also.


I tried mounting it the other way, I am now pulling air through the rad through the fans then out the top of the case. My gpu temps are the best they have ever been - 64c at max load gaming. But my cpu temps are at 42-48 where they were 38-42 before I changed my fans and rad configuration.

All I have changed is - 2 great noctua 120m fans in front instead of 1 stock 140mm fan infront - so more air in
1 noctua 120mm at back exhausting instead of stock 120mm exhausting - so more air out
Removed side 120mm stock fan from window as I really didn't like the look of a fan on my window

Wonder if adding a fan to the bottom would help, am I bringing to much air in now because the two noctua fans are much better than the one 140mm I had.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> I tried mounting it the other way, I am now pulling air through the rad through the fans then out the top of the case. My gpu temps are the best they have ever been - 64c at max load gaming. But my cpu temps are at 42-48 where they were 38-42 before I changed my fans and rad configuration.
> 
> All I have changed is - 2 great noctua 120m fans in front instead of 1 stock 140mm fan infront - so more air in
> 1 noctua 120mm at back exhausting instead of stock 120mm exhausting - so more air out
> Removed side 120mm stock fan from window as I really didn't like the look of a fan on my window
> 
> Wonder if adding a fan to the bottom would help, am I bringing to much air in now because the two noctua fans are much better than the one 140mm I had.


No such thing as "too much" airflow - since the better your airflow is, the better your temps can be.


----------



## sugalumps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> No such thing as "too much" airflow - since the better your airflow is, the better your temps can be.


Well I just cant seem to get decent temps, even with all noctua fans. My gtx 980 msi gaming is 5c hotter than other peoples. See people in the owners thread with 60c temps and only 55 fan speed overclocked. I am having to run the fan at 70 if I overclock(no voltage increase) just to hit 70c and if I leave it at stock I need to runt he fan at 60 just to hit 65c.

So my system/card is on average atleast 5c more, maybe even more.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I5 4670k @ 4.4ghz
> gtx 980 msi gaming
> Corsair 850w fan facing upwards to gpu
> 
> Front 2 fans - noctua nf-s12a intakes
> Exhaust - noctua nf-s12a
> h100i rad fans - noctua nf-f12
> 
> I am rather confused, I just changed all my fans today before with the three stock nzxt fans and stock corsair h100i fans I was getting better temps. I had the stock 140mm in front intaking, the stock 120mm at the back exhausting and the last 120mm on the side panel as intake.
> 
> At 4.2ghz(dropped down to test new fans)
> The h100i fans at 1200rpm would keep my cpu at 38-40c but now they are 40-44c with the noctua fans at 1200rpm, and with them at 1300rpm they are about 40. Which is disappointing but the real kicker is the gpu temp has went up 5c, it used to sit at 55c playing wow and 65 playing far cry 4 now it's 60 in wow and 70 in far cry.
> 
> If I am to change the fans to exhaust air out the top of the case, should I put them under the rad in the case pushing air through the rad up out of the case or put the two fans above the rad and pull the air through the rad and up out the case? As the fans have a lot of static pressure I am not sure which option is best - noctua nf-f12s.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rotorwash*
> 
> @sugalumps
> I cannot speak for the Noctuas (I have a couple but have not installed them) but I tried installing both ways using the Corsair fans on H100i and I found that I got cooler temps with the fans exhausing air from the case through the radiator. My radiator is mounted inside the top of the case. Also, I believe that the stock Corsair fans has higher static pressure than the Noctuas (the Cosair can run at > 2400RPM). Your case fan placement has a lot to do with temps also.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> I tried mounting it the other way, I am now pulling air through the rad through the fans then out the top of the case. My gpu temps are the best they have ever been - 64c at max load gaming. But my cpu temps are at 42-48 where they were 38-42 before I changed my fans and rad configuration.
> 
> All I have changed is - 2 great noctua 120m fans in front instead of 1 stock 140mm fan infront - so more air in
> 1 noctua 120mm at back exhausting instead of stock 120mm exhausting - so more air out
> Removed side 120mm stock fan from window as I really didn't like the look of a fan on my window
> 
> Wonder if adding a fan to the bottom would help, am I bringing to much air in now because the two noctua fans are much better than the one 140mm I had.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> Well I just cant seem to get decent temps, even with all noctua fans. My gtx 980 msi gaming is 5c hotter than other peoples. See people in the owners thread with 60c temps and only 55 fan speed overclocked. I am having to run the fan at 70 if I overclock(no voltage increase) just to hit 70c and if I leave it at stock I need to runt he fan at 60 just to hit 65c.
> 
> So my system/card is on average atleast 5c more, maybe even more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Lot to cover here, but here are some quick thoughts. System specs/OC's help immensely, thanks ... but one key fact we haven't confirmed yet is your case ambient temps are consistent throughout all tests. Even if your room temps are controlled a case sitting on the floor in wintertime (in cold climates) can have several degrees variation from early morning to the afternoon.

Your 0-4c variation in CPU temps is not that surprising. What Ceadderman and rotorwash were kind of referring to is the static pressure of a fan working to cool a radiator matters much more than the CFM. I'd say overall the Corsair fans have better static pressure performance than the Noctua's even at the lower 1200rpm's. Also most would concur (including Corsair Joseph) that static pressure fans perform better in the "push" position as opposed to "pull" ... even though there has been much discussion on this, depends on the rad fin density etc etc









While your 42-48c moderately OC'd CPU load temps are not as good as your original temps, they certainly are not a problem in a high performance gaming rig where GPU temps become more of a challenge with an overclocked high performance 980 with a non-reference ( non-blower type) MSI custom air-cooled HSF dumping a majority of it's heat back into the case.

Without knowing the specs of your original NZXT fans I'd still speculate your having a slightly more noticeable case airflow challenge. ... so without going on n on blah blah ... here are some suggestions










1) Take your side panel off, even adding some external airflow (low cfm/rpm boxfan) and see how much improvement you get?
If it's significant you have a fixable case airflow problem. Try re-installing the side panel fan 120mm as intake blowing on your GPU ... try also adding the bottom intake fan as you mentioned. As Blaze mentioned you cannot have to much airflow, with the exception of dust problems, BUT you do need sufficient exhaust to keep up with the intake OR you could cause "Deadspots". Something we may cure for your GPU with the additional side and/or bottom fan.

2) You may need to improve every last bit of exhaust restriction by modifying your back and top of the case exhaust grills, it's a simple mod like I did Here with a Dremel tool ... see pic ... I'm not familiar with the NZXT410 but you may also want to modify the intake restrictions for your intake fans as well. I like you also liked an unrestricted side view panel so I ended up installing a controllable high CFM Silverstone FM121 120mm running at only 60% in the front with minimal restriction to augment the stock CM200mm front intake. I know Noctua's are nice fans (I use to use them a lot) but sometimes there are better solutions











3) Last but NOT least ... Try your H100i stock Corsair fans in the push (through the rad) position exhausting out the top, even raising the rpm's. This will certainly cool down your CPU a few degrees, BUT it may also improve your overall case flow and lower those GPU temps. Yes it seems we're trading noise for performance but that's the price we pay until you H2o cool that GPU









Edit 4) Make sure all your GTX 980 heatsink screws are tight! You may also just want to remount the heatsink with high quality TIM ... ie. IC7 Diamond / Noctua / Artic Cooling MX series etc etc

Well so much for keeping my suggestions short







... but I hope that helps! It really comes down to a lot of experimentation or just break down and go with a custom loop ... something I'm considering going back to again








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obyboby*
> 
> My apologies if I misunderstood something - my english is not the best, I might be in fault now


No problem? My Italian *reallllly* s*cks









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> OK, there is one more thing you can check, and that would be the hard drive. I have had hard drives that would make a vibrating noise intermittently. Some of them lasted years like this, and on others it was an indication of the drive starting to go bad.
> 
> That's about all that could make a noise in a computer. Non-moving parts just can't make noises. If you're sure it's not the pump, then the fans and hard drive are all that's left.


What? ... are you a mind reader along w/all your other talents? HeeHee ... Where are the answer's to questions 2 & 4 of your post *HERE* ...









I still think the problem lies with Obyboby's radiator mount and or radiator fans







... maybe? but we need to do a thorough process of elimination


----------



## sugalumps

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Lot to cover here, but here are some quick thoughts. System specs/OC's help immensely, thanks ... but one key fact we haven't confirmed yet is your case ambient temps are consistent throughout all tests. Even if your room temps are controlled a case sitting on the floor in wintertime (in cold climates) can have several degrees variation from early morning to the afternoon.
> 
> Your 0-4c variation in CPU temps is not that surprising. What Ceadderman and rotorwash were kind of referring to is the static pressure of a fan working to cool a radiator matters much more than the CFM. I'd say overall the Corsair fans have better static pressure performance than the Noctua's even at the lower 1200rpm's. Also most would concur (including Corsair Joseph) that static pressure fans perform better in the "push" position as opposed to "pull" ... even though there has been much discussion on this, depends on the rad fin density etc etc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While your 42-48c moderately OC'd CPU load temps are not as good as your original temps, they certainly are not a problem in a high performance gaming rig where GPU temps become more of a challenge with an overclocked high performance 980 with a non-reference ( non-blower type) MSI custom air-cooled HSF dumping a majority of it's heat back into the case.
> 
> Without knowing the specs of your original NZXT fans I'd still speculate your having a slightly more noticeable case airflow challenge. ... so without going on n on blah blah ... here are some suggestions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1) Take your side panel off, even adding some external airflow (low cfm/rpm boxfan) and see how much improvement you get?
> If it's significant you have a fixable case airflow problem. Try re-installing the side panel fan 120mm as intake blowing on your GPU ... try also adding the bottom intake fan as you mentioned. As Blaze mentioned you cannot have to much airflow, with the exception of dust problems, BUT you do need sufficient exhaust to keep up with the intake OR you could cause "Deadspots". Something we may cure for your GPU with the additional side and/or bottom fan.
> 
> 2) You may need to improve every last bit of exhaust restriction by modifying your back and top of the case exhaust grills, it's a simple mod like I did Here with a Dremel tool ... see pic ... I'm not familiar with the NZXT410 but you may also want to modify the intake restrictions for your intake fans as well. I like you also liked an unrestricted side view panel so I ended up installing a controllable high CFM Silverstone FM121 120mm running at only 60% in the front with minimal restriction to augment the stock CM200mm front intake. I know Noctua's are nice fans (I use to use them a lot) but sometimes there are better solutions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) Last but NOT least ... Try your H100i stock Corsair fans in the push (through the rad) position exhausting out the top, even raising the rpm's. This will certainly cool down your CPU a few degrees, BUT it may also improve your overall case flow and lower those GPU temps. Yes it seems we're trading noise for performance but that's the price we pay until you H2o cool that GPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit 4) Make sure all your GTX 980 heatsink screws are tight! You may also just want to remount the heatsink with high quality TIM ... ie. IC7 Diamond / Noctua / Artic Cooling MX series etc etc
> 
> Well so much for keeping my suggestions short
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... but I hope that helps! It really comes down to a lot of experimentation or just break down and go with a custom loop ... something I'm considering going back to again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No problem? My Italian *reallllly* s*cks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What? ... are you a mind reader along w/all your other talents? HeeHee ... Where are the answer's to questions 2 & 4 of your post *HERE* ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still think the problem lies with his radiator mount and or radiator fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... maybe? but we need to do a thorough process of elimination






That was alot of information, thank you!










I am currently(stopped testing for the night to late to be moving about) using fron two intakes, 1 at back as an intake instead of exhaust and the top two pushing through the rad as exhaust.

I think I have hit that deadspot you are talking about, my cpu temps are really good again(though as you said different times of day, and it's night now in scotland so cold) 38-40c once again while gaming. But my gpu is at its highest yet, I think(not sure here) that the air being dumped from my gpu into my case then rising it being pushed back by the back intake instead of being pulled out and exhausted through the back. I can feel the heat when I put my hand next to the side panel grill coming from the gpu where I could not before, it feels like its lingering there rather than going anywhere.

Over all I much prefer pushing air through the rad at the top(as an exhaust) out the case, I will try the rear fan as an exhaust again and see if my gpu temps are better. I am going to focus on gpu temps rather than cpu temps here as all temps are fine at 4.4ghz and I dont want my maxwell gpu downclocking.

So airflow should be front two intakes >>>>> exhausting out the back and top through the rad, hope this is not to much exhaust to intake ration. Like you said I could always try a side intake and hope that helps.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

@Obyboby I probably missed it, but have you tried running the cooler outside the case? like using PSU paper clip test to power the cooler. That way you can test the cooler in total isolation from the rest of the hardware.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedster159*
> 
> Is the limit for tempreture on Corsair Link really 70c?
> 
> I want to setup a curve that can go to 90.


You can set up the fan curve in Corsair link up to 90°C, that's the max. Curious, are you gong to put radiator fans under CPU temp group?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeroAlive*
> 
> Never got a reply when I asked and really need to know..
> 
> Could someone measure the height of the H60se/ H80i/H100i waterblock please? from the base to the top i'm trying to plan out stuff.


From coldplate to top, its 1.25 inches.


----------



## Obyboby

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> @Obyboby I probably missed it, but have you tried running the cooler outside the case? like using PSU paper clip test to power the cooler. That way you can test the cooler in total isolation from the rest of the hardware.


Haven't tried that yet. Today I took out the radiator and left it vertically for a few minutes and also tapped on the pipes for a while, but the noise is back. It's less audible, it kind of went back to the noise level I experienced in the beginning, but it's still present.







I might try what you suggested, but I think I will eventually just leave it as it is until I go for a complete custom loop..


----------



## jumpy2219

I turned on my computer earlier today, and my H80i made this loud noise, and the RGB Led's were flashing all different colors of the rainbow. I turned my computer off and back on and everything worked fine. I still want to know what happened.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Got my H80i back from RMA. So far it's working just fine. I didn't connect the USB header yet, bit afraid it might do the same thing again.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jumpy2219*
> 
> I turned on my computer earlier today, and my H80i made this loud noise, and the RGB Led's were flashing all different colors of the rainbow. I turned my computer off and back on and everything worked fine. I still want to know what happened.


Maybe it was just a glitch in the Matrix....hehehe....


----------



## ZeroAlive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> From coldplate to top, its 1.25 inches.


Thanks for that, much appreciated


----------



## Travee

I'm really not happy with my H80i and H80. The cooling capability is great for my needs, but the sound they make is too loud. The sound is especially disturbing when I'm doing office work. I believe the pump should be silent when the CPU is not doing anything serious.


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Travee*
> 
> I'm really not happy with my H80i and H80. The cooling capability is great for my needs, but the sound they make is too loud. The sound is especially disturbing when I'm doing office work. I believe the pump should be silent when the CPU is not doing anything serious.


My H80i is loud before I tuned my own fan profile, if you set the fan speed to maybe around 1000RPM it will still probably cool enough for your processor even at a stress test. At least it is for my 4.6GHz 4690K. What's your CPU?


----------



## Travee

It's the pump sound that distrubs me. When I'm doing office work, everything in my system is completely silent, except for the pump. It's because the pump always runs at 100%, even when the pc is in idle.


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Travee*
> 
> It's the pump sound that distrubs me. When I'm doing office work, everything in my system is completely silent, except for the pump. It's because the pump always runs at 100%, even when the pc is in idle.


Mmm.

This bothers me - am considering a h110 or h100i but I'm worried the pump noise is going to be noticeable. My PC is right next to my head


----------



## rotorwash

@SupahSpankeh
Quote:


> This bothers me - am considering a h110 or h100i but I'm worried the pump noise is going to be noticeable.


My H100i's pump is silent. I have the fans pretty silent too unless I really stress the machine (8 threads running 100%) my CPU temps are 26-68C while working or gaming.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jumpy2219*
> 
> I turned on my computer earlier today, and my H80i made this loud noise, and the RGB Led's were flashing all different colors of the rainbow. I turned my computer off and back on and everything worked fine. I still want to know what happened.


It's possible that your C Link profile didn't kick in on time to load your custom settings properly. Rebooting your system will usually take care of that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Travee*
> 
> It's the pump sound that distrubs me. When I'm doing office work, everything in my system is completely silent, except for the pump. It's because the pump always runs at 100%, even when the pc is in idle.


Does the noise sound like mechanical? or more like a gurgling noise? Try tapping the pump gently and see if the noise changes.

The pump was designed to run at that rated speed (2200 rpm) all the time for optimal performance. On that note, make sure the pump is not running lower or higher than it's rated rpm. It should be within the 2200 rpm range, if its running way out of spec, then it might pose some noise issue.


----------



## Travee

I have a H80i and a H80, both make the same noise and they both run at 2200 rpm. I doubt both of them are faulty. Maybe it's just me, maybe my ears are just too sensitive. I do want to like the H80(i), but right now I just can't. I connect my tablet to my monitor when I'm doing office work, because I can't concentrate when I'm constantly hearing the pump. I think the only solution to this is a pump with a variable speed, but I haven't tried that yet, so I could be wrong.


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Travee*
> 
> I have a H80i and a H80, both make the same noise and they both run at 2200 rpm. I doubt both of them are faulty. Maybe it's just me, maybe my ears are just too sensitive. I do want to like the H80(i), but right now I just can't. I connect my tablet to my monitor when I'm doing office work, because I can't concentrate when I'm constantly hearing the pump. I think the only solution to this is a pump with a variable speed, but I haven't tried that yet, so I could be wrong.


Ohh the pump, yea it makes a bit of noise that I can hear when all my fans are at idle. But to me it's no big deal. I think Corsair should've used a controllable speed pump like the Kraken X41 and Kraken X61.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awesomeguy10578*
> 
> Ohh the pump, yea it makes a bit of noise that I can hear when all my fans are at idle. But to me it's no big deal. I think Corsair should've used a controllable speed pump like the Kraken X41 and Kraken X61.


I've never heard my pump. Then again, all my case fans are at full speed, I plugged them into a molex adapter around back to keep the wiring pretty. However.. they really aren't that loud.. I sleep in the same room as my computer and don't shut it down at night. A normally operating H80i pump shouldn't be loud enough to be annoying if I can't hear it over my fans, even with my side panel off and my ear next to the case. Or, to word it another way.. no big deal, like you said.


----------



## Scarrz

I have the H100i, But am having fan rpm issues i think. Here is a link to my thread.
Anyone else stick on another fan to push pull the rad?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1529434/arctic-cooling-accelero-hybrid-ii-120-liquid-vga-cooler-fan-rpm


----------



## CaptainZombie

I bought the H75 today for my GPU and I am getting like a gurgling/running water noise the whole time I am operating my system. What can I do to fix this as it's rather annoying?


----------



## Obyboby

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> I bought the H75 today for my GPU and I am getting like a gurgling/running water noise the whole time I am operating my system. What can I do to fix this as it's rather annoying?


That's completely normal. It's the pump..


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obyboby*
> 
> That's completely normal. It's the pump..


My H60 is so quiet. Anything I can do to fix it or should I exchange it?


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> My H60 is so quiet. Anything I can do to fix it or should I exchange it?


Tilt it side to side, a new unit usually makes gurgling noises until you move the air bubbles out of the pump area.


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awesomeguy10578*
> 
> Tilt it side to side, a new unit usually makes gurgling noises until you move the air bubbles out of the pump area.


I have the pump installed on the G10 bracket, should I just pull out the card and tilt it side to side or do I need to also pull out the rad from my case too?


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> I have the pump installed on the G10 bracket, should I just pull out the card and tilt it side to side or do I need to also pull out the rad from my case too?


Depends, if the rad is at a higher position than the GPU then tilting side to side the pump only should do the trick but if the rad is at a lower position than the pump you might need to take out the rad and hold it at a position higher than the pump before tilting it. The point is, you want the air bubbles in the pump to go to the end tanks on the radiator. At least that's what I did when my friend's H80i made gurgling noises and it worked.


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awesomeguy10578*
> 
> Depends, if the rad is at a higher position than the GPU then tilting side to side the pump only should do the trick but if the rad is at a lower position than the pump you might need to take out the rad and hold it at a position higher than the pump before tilting it. The point is, you want the air bubbles in the pump to go to the end tanks on the radiator. At least that's what I did when my friend's H80i made gurgling noises and it worked.


This is my setup.....


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> This is my setup.....


Oh I see, I think you MIGHT need to remove the rad and hold it at a higher position for your setup.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awesomeguy10578*
> 
> Oh I see, I think you MIGHT need to remove the rad and hold it at a higher position for your setup.


^ This, or you could also lift the front of the case making the rad higher that the pump. Also, while tilted try tapping the pump gently, that will help to clear the pump from air pockets that are trapped in the loop.


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> ^ This, or you could also lift the front of the case making the rad higher that the pump. Also, while tilted try tapping the pump gently, that will help to clear the pump are from air pockets that are trapped in the loop.


Thanks guys I just did that and it seems to have worked some of them out the noise is not as loud as it was last night. I'll keep working with it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Awesomeguy10578*
> 
> Oh I see, I think you MIGHT need to remove the rad and hold it at a higher position for your setup.
> 
> 
> 
> ^ This, or you could also lift the front of the case making the rad higher that the pump. Also, while tilted try tapping the pump gently, that will help to clear the pump from air pockets that are trapped in the loop.
Click to expand...

This and mount your Radiator over your CPU. U r covering 2 much real estate and making your pump work harder than it has to.









~Ceadder


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This and mount your Radiator over your CPU. U r covering 2 much real estate and making your pump work harder than it has to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The pipe length cannot be changed so the pump would have the same load wherever you place the block or radiator.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes and no. Air rises in liquid. And some air can rise up into the pump as it it is currently configured. Air trapped in the pump will make it work harder. With the radiator mounted next to the CPU will impede air from travelling to the pump. Mounted the way it is now impedes nothing.









~Ceadder


----------



## MikeSp

link to new members is broken and how about adding the H105? (please)


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeSp*
> 
> link to new members is broken and how about adding the H105? (please)


Well, the person that was running the thread went MIA, from what I understand at least....So just grab the signature and BAM, you're a member....


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yes and no. Air rises in liquid. And some air can rise up into the pump as it it is currently configured. Air trapped in the pump will make it work harder. With the radiator mounted next to the CPU will impede air from travelling to the pump. Mounted the way it is now impedes nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Oh that's what you meant, I thought you meant that putting it closer would make the piping easier to pump fliud through.


----------



## eBombzor

Hey guys I think my H80i pump isn't working. I've been using my H80i for about a month now and all of a sudden while I'm watching a YouTube video my fans start taking off. I opened up Corsair Link and my pump wasn't detected anymore.

Btw, I use this on my 780 Ti.

Do you guys have any ideas what's causing this and how to fix it?


----------



## Ceadderman

Did you pull any hardware maintenance or sleeve anything? Seems like it may be a power issue if your heat rose slowly. You neglected to mention if your temps increased or not. If your fans ramped up but no dramatic increase of temps occurred, I wouldn't sweat it too much. An AIO with a dead pump would cause your CPU temps to skyrocket in no time at all.

~Ceadder


----------



## Ziver

Hello,
I want to buy the H105 model, but I'm afraid of leaking. What is the leakage cases such products? Does it happen in the event of a leak corsair meets the harm?


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ziver*
> 
> Hello,
> I want to buy the H105 model, but I'm afraid of leaking. What is the leakage cases such products? Does it happen in the event of a leak corsair meets the harm?


yeah, corsair's good about covering leak damage. these things are very very well-sealed. statistically, there's always going to be a small number of bad units, but you should be good to go with an H105.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ziver*
> 
> Hello,
> I want to buy the H105 model, but I'm afraid of leaking. What is the leakage cases such products? Does it happen in the event of a leak corsair meets the harm?


My H105 came in with some dented fins, so I was afraid of leaks, but it didn't leak a drop. I tried quick temperature changes to test it for leaks and nothing bad happened.
The fin dents were caused by shipping btw, had nothing to do with Corsair. I decided to keep it since it is a temporary cooler anyway.


----------



## Regnitto

just wanted to show off a couple pics of my H100i with new Corsair SP120 blue LED fans.


----------



## Ziver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> yeah, corsair's good about covering leak damage. these things are very very well-sealed. statistically, there's always going to be a small number of bad units, but you should be good to go with an H105.


So you would recommend. How many years do you use h100i ?


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ziver*
> 
> So you would recommend. How many years do you use h100i ?


well i've got the h100i in my rig and an h60 in my sister's. both not quite a year old yet


----------



## Ziver

So,

Which one is better quality (Specialy pumps) ? H100i, H110 or H105


----------



## MikeSp

QUESTION by an almost noob (not having built a computer in over 6 years and NEVER having used water cooling) -- using an H105 -- IF I used a Y cable and connected both of the H105 fans to one motherboard fan header, would the UEFI show the same RPM's for both fans and set the same RPM's for keeping the correct temperature of the CPU?

BUILD UNDER CONSTRUCTION: Phantek Enthoo Pro tower, Asus X99 Deluxe, G.Skill RipJaws 2800 4x4GB, i7-5930K, EVGA NVIDIA GTX 980 SuperOC'd, Corsair H105, Seasonic X-1250, Samsung Pro 840 256 GB SSD, Samsung Pro 850 1 TB SSD, WD RE SAS 2 TB HDD, & Asus BD-Burner.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Did you pull any hardware maintenance or sleeve anything? Seems like it may be a power issue if your heat rose slowly. You neglected to mention if your temps increased or not. If your fans ramped up but no dramatic increase of temps occurred, I wouldn't sweat it too much. An AIO with a dead pump would cause your CPU temps to skyrocket in no time at all.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Nope just left everything intact. I used the H80i on my 780 Ti with richie's bracket.

My temps did rise. It went from 28 C idle to 55 C. I heard my fans ramping up and I started to worry when Corsair Link wasn't detecting my pump anymore.

Sigh I have to RMA it again.

Thanks for the reply.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ziver*
> 
> Hello,
> I want to buy the H105 model, but I'm afraid of leaking. What is the leakage cases such products? Does it happen in the event of a leak corsair meets the harm?


I'm simply going to echo what curly said here. We have come across leak cases, but the # of claims are relatively small compared to the # of units sold that works flawlessly. Just in case you run into this issue, you will have our full support - that I can guarantee you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ziver*
> 
> So,
> 
> Which one is better quality (Specialy pumps) ? H100i, H110 or H105


Both pumps from the H110/H105 and H100i are very well built and designed to meet the cooler's requirement for optimal performance. Technically, I don't think that we have cooler pump that was spec'd better than the other in terms of reliability. But of course, some will tell you that they prefer one cooler over the other.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Nope just left everything intact. I used the H80i on my 780 Ti with richie's bracket.
> 
> My temps did rise. It went from 28 C idle to 55 C. I heard my fans ramping up and I started to worry when Corsair Link wasn't detecting my pump anymore.
> 
> Sigh I have to RMA it again.
> 
> Thanks for the reply.


Have you checked the SATA power from the pump? just make sure its properly seated. Also, If your pump LED is off, then there's definitely no power in the cooler, hence Corsair link is not detecting the pump.

If you are going to RMA it again, send me the ticket # and I'll see to it that we acknowledge it as a 2nd RMA (assuming you've done the first one with us)


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ziver*
> 
> So,
> 
> Which one is better quality (Specialy pumps) ? H100i, H110 or H105


can't speak to the asetek units as i've not had any experience with them. judging from corsair's usually great QC, though, you're probably safe with any of those options.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Have you checked the SATA power from the pump? just make sure its properly seated. Also, If your pump LED is off, then there's definitely no power in the cooler, hence Corsair link is not detecting the pump.
> 
> If you are going to RMA it again, send me the ticket # and I'll see to it that we acknowledge it as a 2nd RMA (assuming you've done the first one with us)


Yeah I've tried different SATA cables, different fan hubs on the motherboard, all to no avail. Strangely enough, the pump light is on but the pump isn't pushing any water. The pump makes zero noise and still goes undetected in Link.

This is my first RMA with Corsair because I was still under NewEgg's replacement last time.

Btw, for Corsair's Express RMA option, do they send you a nice box and a label with the replacement unit? I would rather choose the regular option but I don't have any boxes that'll fits the H80i box and it'll be quite expensive at the post office.

Also, I bought a refurb H80i but in the RMA tabs refurb units only go up to the regular H80, not the H80i, so I chose the regular H80i option. Will they be ok with that your will they reject my RMA?

Thanks for the help.


----------



## MikeSp

Pardon a really dumb question--many components in a computer build come with a small applique indicating what is inside the computer -- does the H105 have a small ~1 inch square, applique to add to the rest of them?

Thanks,

Mike


----------



## VSG

You mean like a case badge?


----------



## MikeSp

Affirmative (same question for the i7-5930 too)


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeSp*
> 
> Affirmative (same question for the i7-5930 too)


My Corsair H60 2013 ed. did not come with any case stickers/badges. That's not to say an H105 won't, but I doubt it.

Intel retail-boxed CPUs traditionally come with an "Intel Inside" sticker though they're more rectangular than square. Don't see why a 5930 would be any different.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Btw, for Corsair's Express RMA option, do they send you a nice box and a label with the replacement unit? I would rather choose the regular option but I don't have any boxes that'll fits the H80i box and it'll be quite expensive at the post office.
> 
> Also, I bought a refurb H80i but in the RMA tabs refurb units only go up to the regular H80, not the H80i, so I chose the regular H80i option. Will they be ok with that your will they reject my RMA?
> 
> Thanks for the help.


Express RMA is basically a reverse process of the standard RMA where the replacement is sent out to you first before you send back the faulty unit. First, you will need to call in and get in touch with our customers service and let them know that you'd like to take the Express RMA route. They will then ask you for a credit card info as an assurance that you will send the faulty unit back. If you'd like to request a pre-paid label, you are welcome to do so - just let them know that your 1st RMA was through Newegg. You will need to provide your own box when process an RMA, regardless if its standard or Express.

Don't worry about the part # in your ticket, I can have that updated. Just let me know what the ticket # is and I'll add a note to change it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeSp*
> 
> Pardon a really dumb question--many components in a computer build come with a small applique indicating what is inside the computer -- does the H105 have a small ~1 inch square, applique to add to the rest of them?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike


Sorry Mike, but none of our coolers will come with a case badge. Only our HXi and AXi PSUs.


----------



## MikeSp

thanks!!!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeSp*
> 
> Affirmative (same question for the i7-5930 too)


No, for the newer AIOs. As far as your CPU goes, look inside the manual


----------



## MikeSp

Ahhhh -- it was stuck on the outside of that teensy little worthless manual (I had fanned through it). thanks


----------



## VSG

Yeah no one looks at manuals anymore, sheesh









In other news, I am now a proud owner of a Hydro series H100i and H75 (along with 2 HG10 brackets). Expect pics and tests sooner than later!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

You could always get a case badge of just about anything from modsticker.com. They've got a silver metal Corsair one.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> In other news, I am now a proud owner of a Hydro series H100i and H75 (along with 2 HG10 brackets). Expect pics and tests sooner than later!


Nice! Grats on that







Looking forward to see your test results.


----------



## MikeSp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Nice! Grats on that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to see your test results.


Good to know -- THANKS!!


----------



## MikeSp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> You could always get a case badge of just about anything from modsticker.com. They've got a silver metal Corsair one.


Thanks -- that is a big help (sorry that I quoted and replied to the wrong person as I was getting ready to head to MicroCenter in a hurry)


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah no one looks at manuals anymore, sheesh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In other news, I am now a proud owner of a Hydro series H100i and H75 (along with 2 HG10 brackets). Expect pics and tests sooner than later!


That's something really cool to look forward to








Where did you find the HG10?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> That's something really cool to look forward to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you find the HG10?


I am not sure about Greece but it is easily available now in the US at $35 or lower. The AMD A1 version anyway, the N1 will be announced at CES in Jan I believe and hopefully the N2 soon after that- it is catch up mode for Corsair on these.


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am not sure about Greece but it is easily available now in the US at $35 or lower. The AMD A1 version anyway, the N1 will be announced at CES in Jan I believe and hopefully the N2 soon after that- it is catch up mode for Corsair on these.


Thanks for the info
They're not available for sale in Greece yet..I'm having some gpu cooling problems at the moment and I'd like to see how it performs..


----------



## MikeSp

I would like to connect the 3 pin female connector from my H105 pump directly to the Seasonic PSU -- have not seen a 6 or 8 conductor PSU cable ending in a 3 pin male fan connector -- HOW might I accomplish this task? (I am guessing by using a PSU cable ending in a Molex connector and then an adaptor). Thanks


----------



## remedy

think i screwed up. I have an H55 and HG10 A1 for my 290X and wasn't happy with VRM1 being around 100c, so I bought some fujipoly pads.

I bought 0.5mm and 1mm pads, 0.5mm for the memory and 1mm for the vrm's.

here's where I think I screwed up. I peeled off the stock thermal pads/tape and put the pads down with some IC diamond 7 under it (except for the long thin strip and the small T shaped 1mm strip on the back side towards the inputs).

my vrm1 temp hits 120c now. should I have put some thermal paste ontop of the pads so they transfer heat better to the bracket?

pretty worried, as I threw away the thermal tape and I don't want to damage my card.

anyone have any advice?


----------



## VSG

No need for thermal paste with Fujipoly pads. I'd dismantle the HG10 and see how well the contact was with the pads and the VRMs. The Fujipoly pads tend to squish up and contact needs to be good. I might well test out the stock pads vs Fujipoly ones myself just to see. I did hear that the stock pads are pretty decent as it is.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *remedy*
> 
> think i screwed up. I have an H55 and HG10 A1 for my 290X and wasn't happy with VRM1 being around 100c, so I bought some fujipoly pads.


100°C is awfully too high. Did you remove the plastic cover on the thermal pads before installing the bracket?


----------



## Ceadderman

Pretty sure that the block is not in full contact with the GPU. Considering my AMD cards have needed an adapter to contact the block to the GPU. I could be wrong though.

~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

He's talking about the VRMs, the HG10 bracket works there without anything to do with the AIO on the core.


----------



## remedy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> 100°C is awfully too high. Did you remove the plastic cover on the thermal pads before installing the bracket?


i remember removing them from the vram but honestly i may not have removed them from the VRM areas. i didn't even realize they were on there until i lifted the bracket to make sure there was good contact with and saw some edges flake up.

stupid error, any advice on what i can do to fix the situation now?

vrm1 hit 116c playing dragon age inquisition, so i'm just going to avoid gaming until I can undo the damage my idiocy has caused


----------



## Q5Grafx

with conflicting reports best bet is to go somewhere that has the case on display and measure for yourself. when i was building the Monster i was told an H110 would not fit in a corsair 550d. but after 17 months of running it i can assure you that it does.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *remedy*
> 
> i remember removing them from the vram but honestly i may not have removed them from the VRM areas. i didn't even realize they were on there until i lifted the bracket to make sure there was good contact with and saw some edges flake up.
> 
> stupid error, any advice on what i can do to fix the situation now?
> 
> vrm1 hit 116c playing dragon age inquisition, so i'm just going to avoid gaming until I can undo the damage my idiocy has caused


Remove the bracket and then take off the plastic tapes from both sides of the Fujipoly pads. If the heat has melted the plastic then scrap them and use fresh pads.


----------



## remedy

oh i phrased that poorly. i meant on the original thermal tape that came with the hg10 i may not have removed the plastic from the vrm1 area.

on the fujipoly pads i did remove it from both sides.

the issue turned out to be completely unrelated, after installing the new pads i forgot to plug the blower fan in.

VRM1 temps are now happily at 85c, with vrm2 at 75c.


----------



## VSG

lol well at least it was an easy fix. I'd still try to keep them around 60 ºC if possible as it helps out with core overclocking then.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeSp*
> 
> QUESTION by an almost noob (not having built a computer in over 6 years and NEVER having used water cooling) -- using an H105 -- IF I used a Y cable and connected both of the H105 fans to one motherboard fan header, would the UEFI show the same RPM's for both fans and set the same RPM's for keeping the correct temperature of the CPU?
> 
> BUILD UNDER CONSTRUCTION: Phantek Enthoo Pro tower, Asus X99 Deluxe, G.Skill RipJaws 2800 4x4GB, i7-5930K, EVGA NVIDIA GTX 980 SuperOC'd, Corsair H105, Seasonic X-1250, Samsung Pro 840 256 GB SSD, Samsung Pro 850 1 TB SSD, WD RE SAS 2 TB HDD, & Asus BD-Burner.


This is exactly how I had my H100 fans connected in my system (my new main board has two CPU_FAN headers so I don't need a splitter anymore).
If your fans are 4-pin, then they are PWM. If you use a good PWM splitter cable, it will have three wires going to one fan and four to the other fan. This is because the Tac line for the fans tells the system what the fan RPM is, but you cannot add these signals together. So, if you use a splitter with four wires going to each fan, the system would be confused and not able to accurately judge the current RPM of both fans.

The solution they use is to not report the RPM of one of the fans. If the fans are both the same, then it is assumed they are both running at the same speed. So, one fan will report its RPM and the system will assume the other fan is going the same speed. (Actually, the system won't even know there is a second fan, but the second fan will run at the same speed as the first fan).

With PWM fans it works this way no matter how many fans you have connected using a splitter. Only one fan (the "Master Fan" if you will) reports its speed.

Watch out for cheap PWM splitters that have all four wires connected to every fan. They will just not function properly as the system tries to figure out the meaning behind multiple tac signals, all out-of-sync and added together.

If you are using 3-pin fans, and if your motherboard supports voltage control for 3-pin fans, you could still use a splitter but again you would want to remove the Tac line going to one of the fans so they can accurately report their speed.

Watch out for splitters though. Some splitters draw all their power from the fan header. This will require twice the current flow to maintain the speed of two fans, basically doubling the wattage.

However, a good PWM splitter will draw power from a Molex hard drive connector, but still plug into the CPU_FAN header to send and receive control signals.

If you are just using the fan header for power, make sure the header is capable of supplying the amount of current for both fans.

Here is a diagram of a PWM splitter I made from spare parts. This is the correct way for a PWM splitter to be wired.



As you can see, both fans get 12V, and both fans get a control signal, but only one fan sends its Tac signal to the motherboard.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This is exactly how I had my H100 fans connected in my system (my new main board has two CPU_FAN headers so I don't need a splitter anymore).
> If your fans are 4-pin, then they are PWM. If you use a good PWM splitter cable, it will have three wires going to one fan and four to the other fan. This is because the Tac line for the fans tells the system what the fan RPM is, but you cannot add these signals together. So, if you use a splitter with four wires going to each fan, the system would be confused and not able to accurately judge the current RPM of both fans.
> 
> The solution they use is to not report the RPM of one of the fans. If the fans are both the same, then it is assumed they are both running at the same speed. So, one fan will report its RPM and the system will assume the other fan is going the same speed. (Actually, the system won't even know there is a second fan, but the second fan will run at the same speed as the first fan).
> 
> With PWM fans it works this way no matter how many fans you have connected using a splitter. Only one fan (the "Master Fan" if you will) reports its speed.
> 
> Watch out for cheap PWM splitters that have all four wires connected to every fan. They will just not function properly as the system tries to figure out the meaning behind multiple tac signals, all out-of-sync and added together.
> 
> If you are using 3-pin fans, and if your motherboard supports voltage control for 3-pin fans, you could still use a splitter but again you would want to remove the Tac line going to one of the fans so they can accurately report their speed.
> 
> Watch out for splitters though. Some splitters draw all their power from the fan header. This will require twice the current flow to maintain the speed of two fans, basically doubling the wattage.
> 
> However, a good PWM splitter will draw power from a Molex hard drive connector, but still plug into the CPU_FAN header to send and receive control signals.
> 
> If you are just using the fan header for power, make sure the header is capable of supplying the amount of current for both fans.
> 
> Here is a diagram of a PWM splitter I made from spare parts. This is the correct way for a PWM splitter to be wired.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, both fans get 12V, and both fans get a control signal, but only one fan sends its Tac signal to the motherboard.


+rep I'm gonna make one of those. Gonna be a 3-way splitter for my intake fans since both my radiators and my 290 are controlled by Corsair Link through my h100i

edit: This is my 200th post on OCN!


----------



## Swuell

So I was wondering when you use custom fans foe the corsair h100 should you use the H100 stock screws or the screws that come with the custom fans? :/


----------



## Regnitto

as long as they are not too long you should be fine. the fans I bought for my h100i didn't come with screws so I had to use the ones that came with the h100i


----------



## uglykidmoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> So I was wondering when you use custom fans foe the corsair h100 should you use the H100 stock screws or the screws that come with the custom fans? :/


just pay close attention to the length of the screws, it's easy to puncture the radiator.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> as long as they are not too long you should be fine. the fans I bought for my h100i didn't come with screws so I had to use the ones that came with the h100i


Thanks though I was thinking it's not going to be long enough since it has to go through the phanthom 410 top sheet metal and it's a 140mm instead of a 120mm. So I'm more worried about how to get the radiator with the scythe slimfans to stick in the case. :/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uglykidmoe*
> 
> just pay close attention to the length of the screws, it's easy to puncture the radiator.


Same response as I noted above. So not sure whether to use the scythe skipstream screws or the h100 screws.

Also I have to redo my TIMS for my H100 and my CPU since I had to reseat my H100 and all my pc parts due to cleaning it out--so much dust(!)--so was wondering if I needed to apply TIMS to both the H100 block and CPU or just the CPU itself will work?

And another question is would it be alright--airflow wise--if I were to have the two 120 mm fans and 2 accompany 140mm fans going in opposite directions, one exhaust and the other intake, etc -- specifically the fans toward the front as intake and the ones toward the back as exhaust or would that not work? If so why?


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> And another question is would it be alright--airflow wise--if I were to have the two 120 mm fans and 2 accompany 140mm fans going in opposite directions, one exhaust and the other intake, etc -- specifically the fans toward the front as intake and the ones toward the back as exhaust or would that not work? If so why?


If you're talking about a push/pull setup it should be fine. if you are talking about setting them to all blow into the rad from both directions, I don't think that works although I'm a noob in that department so you might want to wait for another response. I've got a pair of 200mm above my rad exhausting out the top of my case, and my rad fans are in a push configuration, pushing air through the rad to be pulled out of the case by the 200s. I'm running an FX-6100 @ 4816mhz 1.596Vcore after LLC and see a max temp of around 60-64c loading with IBT. temps were slightly lower with the faster spinning stock fans, but I like the leds and it still stays in the low 50's with my custom fan curve in link.


----------



## Ceadderman

No will NOT be airtight. You will need fan silencer squares mounted under the fans to form a perfect seal. Thatms how I did it with my H50.

~Ceadder


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> If you're talking about a push/pull setup it should be fine. if you are talking about setting them to all blow into the rad from both directions, I don't think that works although I'm a noob in that department so you might want to wait for another response. I've got a pair of 200mm above my rad exhausting out the top of my case, and my rad fans are in a push configuration, pushing air through the rad to be pulled out of the case by the 200s. I'm running an FX-6100 @ 4816mhz 1.596Vcore after LLC and see a max temp of around 60-64c loading with IBT. temps were slightly lower with the faster spinning stock fans, but I like the leds and it still stays in the low 50's with my custom fan curve in link.


yeah I'm talking about a push pull set up. Basically the noctua 140mm AF-A14's on the top with the right ones--toward the front--as intake while the left ones--toward the back--as exhaust--which is going to be on the rad with the same thing for the scythe slipstreams--mirrored, so the right slipstreams towards the front will be intake also and towards the left (the back) an exhaust--which will be attached to the rad. Due to my phantom 410 and ram I can only use slipstreams with the radiator inside the case but with intake and exhaust I was thinking that should provide maximum airflow. Since the very front of my case will also have another rad with intake for my GPU and the bottom of the case will have another fan for intake--which will help cover the gpu and the motherboard as well--while the side panel will be exhaust along with the back. So I would have three exhaust in total instead of just two. It should work in theory but I've seen conflicting arguments on this though if you have an bottom fan blowing upwards it should help negate the fact that the top of the fans are technically going in circles--though the way the air works they're not really traveling in circles either way--along with the fact that the back also has an exhaust and the gpu itself has an intake so it should help travel the air to the motherboard as well.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No will NOT be airtight. You will need fan silencer squares mounted under the fans to form a perfect seal. Thatms how I did it with my H50.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Fan silencer? What are you talking about?? I wouldn't be able to fit anything less than slipstreams with the radiator inside the case. Due to the constraints of the Phantom 410 and my ram.

Originally I had my H100 setup as both exhaust with my fans on the inside and my radiator on the outside but after taking my pc apart the radiator is extremely dusty and it's really hard to clean, I've barely been able to get all the dust off. I've managed to clean at least 85% of it but there's still some meager dust still trapped in the radiator that's not coming off







. Also how would I apply the thermal compound though, do I apply it to both the CPU and the Radiator block or just to the cpu?

Thanks


----------



## LostParticle

Hello,

I have a question, I don't know if this has been already answered:

- I've heard owners of the H110 AIO claiming having better results by connecting the pump of the H110 directly to the PSU and not to the motherboard and setting the respective fan header to 100% load.

Is this true?
Is it better, you think, to connect the pump directly to the Power Supply Unit instead of connecting it to a fan header of the motherboard and setting it to always work on full speed?

Thank you.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well swuell, if you can't fit something thin and squishy under your fans you could ghetto seal it with electrical tape. Problem solved.









~Ceadder


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well swuell, if you can't fit something thin and squishy under your fans you could ghetto seal it with electrical tape. Problem solved.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


hahaha. So far that's the best answer--though I"m still somewhat confused--that you've given haha!







Except I'm guessing you meant i should have both fans up top and bottom square right to have an airtight seal? Except I was asking about the direction the fans were blowing if one was exhaust and the other intake would it be alright -- thoughts on that? And the ghetto seal would work if it didn't upset my ram haha.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> hahaha. So far that's the best answer--though I"m still somewhat confused--that you've given haha!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except I'm guessing you meant i should have both fans up top and bottom square right to have an airtight seal? Except I was asking about the direction the fans were blowing if one was exhaust and the other intake would it be alright -- thoughts on that? And the ghetto seal would work if it didn't upset my ram haha.


If you point the fans towards each other, where do you expect the air to go? Or what do you hope to gain by setting the fans up like that? You will be better off if you stick to both sides either being exhaust or intake - where the air flows either into, or out of the case.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I have a question, I don't know if this has been already answered:
> 
> - I've heard owners of the H110 AIO claiming having better results by connecting the pump of the H110 directly to the PSU and not to the motherboard and setting the respective fan header to 100% load.
> 
> Is this true?
> Is it better, you think, to connect the pump directly to the Power Supply Unit instead of connecting it to a fan header of the motherboard and setting it to always work on full speed?
> 
> Thank you.


Hey guys, anyone on this, please?


----------



## VSG

Unless the motherboard header isn't providing enough power to the pump to run at full speed (not likely), then yes it makes sense. But why not simply try it out yourself?


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Unless the motherboard header isn't providing enough power to the pump to run at full speed (not likely), then yes it makes sense. But why not simply try it out yourself?


Well, I was hoping that someone would have a similar experience and share it. For example, @Wirerat posted once that he observed better performance on his H110 when connecting its pump directly on the PSU. I suppose I will try it at some point in time, though.


----------



## bill1024

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> hahaha. So far that's the best answer--though I"m still somewhat confused--that you've given haha!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except I'm guessing you meant i should have both fans up top and bottom square right to have an airtight seal? Except I was asking about the direction the fans were blowing if one was exhaust and the other intake would it be alright -- thoughts on that? And the ghetto seal would work if it didn't upset my ram haha.


I understand what you're saying. You want the left side exhaust and the right side intake.
It could work, your temps may be a little bit higher. Some of the exhaust air may short cycle in to the intake air stream.
Give it a try and see, I was going to try it, but didn't. I just made my top mount rad. an exhaust with the rear fan blowing as an intake.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Well, I was hoping that someone would have a similar experience and share it. For example, @Wirerat posted once that he observed better performance on his H110 when connecting its pump directly on the PSU. I suppose I will try it at some point in time, though.


The question is which motherboard header was it connected to before and what were the settings on that motherboard header.

A lot of people connect the pump to their CPU header which results in lowered voltages because the CPU header is operating in PWM mode and reducing the voltage based on the CPU temperature curve setting in the BIOS.

Alternatively it could be on a case fan header that is also set to PWM mode in the bios and operating at less than 12V.

Either case would result in the pump operating at a reduced speed which would result in reduced cooling.

If you connect the pump to a case fan header and have that header set to operate in DC mode at the full 12V then there should be no difference between that and connecting the pump to the PSU. For most new motherboards this would require making manual changes to the fan header setting in the BIOS.

For example.... the Asus BIOS...



Connect to a case fan header and set that header in DC mode and set it at Full Speed.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

A PWM header would provide a full 12V on the voltage pin at all times. PWM devices run at 12v all the time. Only the 4th pin, the PWM signal, fluctuates the duty cycle to tell a PWM device how fast to run.

Only on a voltage controlled mobo header would the voltage ever be less than 12v.

edit: PWM Pinout


On a voltage controlled 4-pin mobo header (typical CHA header) the blue wire (4th pin) usually has a 5V vcc placeholder current and the red wire (2nd pin) voltage will vary depending on your settings.


----------



## LostParticle

Thank you very much, guys, for the detailed explanation! (+REP)

Personally, I never connect my AIO's pump to the CPU or the OPT fan headers, and this simply because I run a four fan push-pull setup (see rig), so I need those two fan headers. The pump, which has a 3-pin fan connector, has always been connected on a motherboard's (chassis) fan header:

- On my ASRock Z97 Extreme6 there is a 3-pin fan header named PWR fan, providing full speed all the time
- On my Gigabyte Z97X SOC Force there is one 3-pin fan header near the CPU area, which even though not specified in the manual, it does provide full speed all the time.
- On my current ASUS Maximus Hero VII I do not have my AIO connected yet. It will go on one of the 4-pin chassis fan headers though, and it will be set to full speed.

Thanks again for the detailed information!

ps: WISH there were some people like you on the overclocking sections! I'm struggling to reproduce my 4.7GHz o/c on this Hero VII and it is simply i-m-p-o-s-s-i-b-l-e...


----------



## deathroll

Hey guys! I've just bought an H100i today. I installed it but I had to remored the pump because I realized that I made a mistake. So, I have cleaned up both CPU and copper plate surface with isopropyl alcohol and make-up removing cotton. When I install it again, I noticed the copper plate surface looks like that and there were some scratches on it. Does these affect cooling performance?


----------



## VSG

Not really, it is copper so expect to see slight imperfections and oxidation.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathroll*
> 
> Hey guys! I've just bought an H100i today. I installed it but I had to remored the pump because I realized that I made a mistake. So, I have cleaned up both CPU and copper plate surface with isopropyl alcohol and make-up removing cotton. When I install it again, I noticed the copper plate surface looks like that and there were some scratches on it. Does these affect cooling performance?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's fine, those slight imperfections won't affect your cooling performance.


----------



## MikeSp

The thermal compound that you use will fill any voids which it is designed to do.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeSp*
> 
> The thermal compound that you use will fill any voids which it is designed to do.


When you repaste do you repaste just the CPU or the H100 block also? I'm just a tad confused... :|


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> If you point the fans towards each other, where do you expect the air to go? Or what do you hope to gain by setting the fans up like that? You will be better off if you stick to both sides either being exhaust or intake - where the air flows either into, or out of the case.


Well one's intake and the other exhaust, I would expect it to go where it's intended to go--albeit with a few short cycle's here and there though that's to be expected--and can be somewhat mitigated with a lower fan on the bottom and the side case fan as another exhaust. Well that's what I originally did but right now my equipment is different since my new card is going to be generating alot of heat I'd really prefer to have 3 exhausts while still have one more intake fan for the CPU that's why I wanted to try out the Intake + Exhaust combo. I mean with a high enough CFM power the air only goes a certain way...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bill1024*
> 
> I understand what you're saying. You want the left side exhaust and the right side intake.
> It could work, your temps may be a little bit higher. Some of the exhaust air may short cycle in to the intake air stream.
> Give it a try and see, I was going to try it, but didn't. I just made my top mount rad. an exhaust with the rear fan blowing as an intake.


Yes, yeah I was thinking it might be a little higher compared to just pure exhaust or pure intake but with either one of those I'm still sacrificing one thing--since pure exhaust would be sacrificing temps for the cpu so the cpu temps would still be relatively high (which puts it in the same position) while the pure intake would be sacrificing the GPU (which would put that in the same position)--so I'd rather just sacrifice the overall temp as to get a medium and equal solution instead which would be a benefit to both cpu and gpu overall in the long run. I was also afraid of the short cycle but was thinking that with the bottom intake fan it should somewhat mitigate the cycle a bit along with the side exhaust, so it should minimize the impact of that. I'll definitely give it a try and see and report back. It's been a while since I've had my cpu but when I first did it I think on average it ran between 35-38 C I think and that was on just pure exhaust so I'll see how it goes with this whole new setup and new fans that I"m adding.

Will report back.


----------



## VSG

It's the same thing, isn't it? TIM is between two interfaces and in this case it is the CPU IHS and the H100 cold plate.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It's the same thing, isn't it? TIM is between two interfaces and in this case it is the CPU IHS and the H100 cold plate.


? I've never repasted--I know what it is--I just don't know how to go about repasting. I'm not sure if you're supposed to just paste it on the CPU or the Cooling Block or if the best way is to paste it on both the block and the CPU so I was was asking, which way is the best??


----------



## VSG

Look up videos on YouTube. You generally apply on the CPU and tighten down the cooler to create a thin film.


----------



## MikeSp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> ? I've never repasted--I know what it is--I just don't know how to go about repasting. I'm not sure if you're supposed to just paste it on the CPU or the Cooling Block or if the best way is to paste it on both the block and the CPU so I was was asking, which way is the best??


There are as many arguments about what thermal compound to use as there are as to how to apply it. FWIW, I use Arctic MX-4 and apply an amount equal to the size of a garden pea (about 4mm diameter) in the very center of the top of the CPU (having cleaned THOROUGHLY the CPU and bottom of the water pump -- using 95% isopropyl alcohol or ArcticThermal Material Remover and then clean again with Arctic Thermal Surface Purifier) the part of the CPU that really needs the thermal transfer compound is the central 2/3's but if you apply one pea-sized drop to the very center and then set the water pump in its place and tighten down, it will spread the thermal compound.

Some thermal compounds contain diamond dust and can scratch the surfaces and some thermal compounds are electrically conductive and if they ooze out over the edge if too much was used, could cause problems. I use MX-4 because it usually receives high ratings and is not conductive of electricity.

As was suggested, look to some YouTube videos -- there you can see the garden pea method, the thin spread over the entire surface method, the line method, etc.

Good luck and Merry Christmas


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Look up videos on YouTube. You generally apply on the CPU and tighten down the cooler to create a thin film.


Ah I've already read the methods and I have a spreader I just wanted to know if I only need to apply on one thing or both since on one article I was reading--concerning an water cooler and a GPU--they had applied the thermal compound on both the GPU block and CPU. Thanks though and Merry Christmas!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeSp*
> 
> There are as many arguments about what thermal compound to use as there are as to how to apply it. FWIW, I use Arctic MX-4 and apply an amount equal to the size of a garden pea (about 4mm diameter) in the very center of the top of the CPU (having cleaned THOROUGHLY the CPU and bottom of the water pump -- using 95% isopropyl alcohol or ArcticThermal Material Remover and then clean again with Arctic Thermal Surface Purifier) the part of the CPU that really needs the thermal transfer compound is the central 2/3's but if you apply one pea-sized drop to the very center and then set the water pump in its place and tighten down, it will spread the thermal compound.
> 
> Some thermal compounds contain diamond dust and can scratch the surfaces and some thermal compounds are electrically conductive and if they ooze out over the edge if too much was used, could cause problems. I use MX-4 because it usually receives high ratings and is not conductive of electricity.
> 
> As was suggested, look to some YouTube videos -- there you can see the garden pea method, the thin spread over the entire surface method, the line method, etc.
> 
> Good luck and Merry Christmas


Thank you for the information, much appreciated!







:thumb: I actually got the Gelid GC-Extreme--since I heard it was quite good--so I've been itching to try it out and now that I've cleaned my pc I can haha! It comes with a spreader too so I can easily apply it! And I have the cleaning solution (don't think it's from arctic though maybe it is). But that helps alot so basically I just need to apply it mainly on the CPU and make sure I spread it even and to set my H100 block right without messing up lol... phew that's going to be quite hard haha. Will do I'll find it. Thanks again for the info and suggestion! Along with the Merry Christmas!

Thank you again! And have a Merry Christmas to you too! Hope you have a good one!







:thumb:


----------



## Swuell

Just a quick question do you guys know if it's possible to connect a y fan splitter cable to the H100 fan cable--that connects to the mobo--so that I can connect to both to the mobo and to my fan controller, would that work? I was thinking it might be ok since one is used for rpm readings and the other is used for controlling the fan, or no?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Look up videos on YouTube. You generally apply on the CPU and tighten down the cooler to create a thin film.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah I've already read the methods and *I have a spreader* I just wanted to know if I only need to apply on one thing or both since on one article I was reading--concerning an water cooler and a GPU--they had applied the thermal compound on both the GPU block and CPU. Thanks though and Merry Christmas!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MikeSp*
> 
> There are as many arguments about what thermal compound to use as there are as to how to apply it. FWIW, I use Arctic MX-4 and apply an amount equal to the size of a garden pea (about 4mm diameter) in the very center of the top of the CPU (having cleaned THOROUGHLY the CPU and bottom of the water pump -- using 95% isopropyl alcohol or ArcticThermal Material Remover and then clean again with Arctic Thermal Surface Purifier) the part of the CPU that really needs the thermal transfer compound is the central 2/3's but if you apply one pea-sized drop to the very center and then set the water pump in its place and tighten down, it will spread the thermal compound.
> 
> Some thermal compounds contain diamond dust and can scratch the surfaces and some thermal compounds are electrically conductive and if they ooze out over the edge if too much was used, could cause problems. I use MX-4 because it usually receives high ratings and is not conductive of electricity.
> 
> As was suggested, look to some YouTube videos -- there you can see the garden pea method, the thin spread over the entire surface method, the line method, etc.
> 
> Good luck and Merry Christmas
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thank you for the information, much appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :thumb: I actually got the Gelid GC-Extreme--since I heard it was quite good--so I've been itching to try it out and now that I've cleaned my pc I can haha! *It comes with a spreader too so I can easily apply it!* And I have the cleaning solution (don't think it's from arctic though maybe it is). But that helps alot so basically I just need to apply it mainly on the CPU and make sure I spread it even and to set my H100 block right without messing up lol... phew that's going to be quite hard haha. Will do I'll find it. Thanks again for the info and suggestion! Along with the Merry Christmas!
> 
> Thank you again! And have a Merry Christmas to you too! Hope you have a good one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :thumb:
Click to expand...

If you spread the TIM you'll get air bubbles (which you _really_ do not want) and probably apply too much. You're better off to use the pea or grain of rice method and let the block or cooler do the spreading for you as you mount it and tighten it down. You don't want / need to cover the entire CPU's IHS. You want your application to result in a thin and uniform a layer that covers the entire center of the IHS that spreads out near but not all the way to the edges as all of the heat is coming from the die under it:



Too much TIM is worse than not enough. The best heat transfer is from the direct metal to metal contact between the IHS and block/cooler, but there are too many surface imperfections that would be air pockets if you just put them together by themselves. That's where TIM comes in. It's only job is to uniformly fill all the microgaps in between the two surfaces to aid in heat transfer.

This vid should be helpful to you ...


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If you spread the TIM you'll get air bubbles (which you _really_ do not want) and probably apply too much. You're better off to use the pea or grain of rice method and let the block or cooler do the spreading for you as you mount it and tighten it down. You don't want / need to cover the entire CPU's IHS. You want your application to result in a thin and uniform a layer that covers the entire center of the IHS that spreads out near but not all the way to the edges as all of the heat is coming from the die under it:
> 
> 
> 
> Too much TIM is worse than not enough. The best heat transfer is from the direct metal to metal contact between the IHS and block/cooler, but there are too many surface imperfections that would be air pockets if you just put them together by themselves. That's where TIM comes in. It's only job is to uniformly fill all the microgaps in between the two surfaces to aid in heat transfer.
> 
> This vid should be helpful to you ...


Oh. Then why does it come with a spreader?!!!!! HOW MISLEADING!!!! AUUGHHH, I almost made a mistake... :O. Thank you so much haha!







+REP!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well swuell, if you can't fit something thin and squishy under your fans you could ghetto seal it with electrical tape. Problem solved.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hahaha. So far that's the best answer--though I"m still somewhat confused--that you've given haha!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except I'm guessing you meant i should have both fans up top and bottom square right to have an airtight seal? Except I was asking about the direction the fans were blowing if one was exhaust and the other intake would it be alright -- thoughts on that? And the ghetto seal would work if it didn't upset my ram haha.
Click to expand...

Both fans should be oriented with the arrows facing in the same direction. Hence one will face the radiator and the opposite fan will be pointed away from the radiator when sandwiching it. If you only want fans on one side they must face the same direction.

You were asking if your setup would be airtight(sealed) and no they would not be sealed w/o something to seal the intake fan to the radiator. Hence fan silencer/electrical tape thoughts interjected on my behalf. Only Intake side needs to be sealed to get the best airflow in P/P setup.









~Ceadder


----------



## rotorwash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Just a quick question do you guys know if it's possible to connect a y fan splitter cable to the H100 fan cable--that connects to the mobo--so that I can connect to both to the mobo and to my fan controller, would that work? I was thinking it might be ok since one is used for rpm readings and the other is used for controlling the fan, or no?


I would suggest that you use one or the other. I find it easier to controls the fans on my H100i using Corsair Link and the H100i temperature (the default CL setting). This way I can fine tune cooling vs fan noise.


----------



## deathroll

Hey again! I've run some stress test with my i5-4690K in Intel Stock Operation. Tested 30 minutes with AIDA64 and Prime95 Small FFTs, results below. Also idle temperature is between 30-35 celcius. I use NF-F12 fans mounted under the radiator as intake. I suppose these temperatures are high for stock frequencies and voltages. Outdoor temperature is about 0-2 celcius when I testing but I wasn't be able to measure indoor temperature. I suspect that I may have installed the pump unit wrong. In addition applied Artic MX-4 with pea method. Does positioning affect temps tragically?


(Prime 95 Small FFTs)


(AIDA64 built-in system stability test)

_Thanks in advance.._


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Both fans should be oriented with the arrows facing in the same direction. Hence one will face the radiator and the opposite fan will be pointed away from the radiator when sandwiching it. If you only want fans on one side they must face the same direction.
> 
> You were asking if your setup would be airtight(sealed) and no they would not be sealed w/o something to seal the intake fan to the radiator. Hence fan silencer/electrical tape thoughts interjected on my behalf. Only Intake side needs to be sealed to get the best airflow in P/P setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


XD I actually wasn't asking about the seal since I already knew it wouldn't be airtight due to the metal inbetween it up top haha but thanks! But due to the new fans I'm getting I'm pretty much stuck with doing it one direction now so yeah lol... Also I'm a bit confused on intake vs. exhaust now... because if you were to take intake--assuming you didn't change any positions at all--and just put it into the back of the pc from the front wouldn't that essentially turn it into an exhaust fan???? If so what is exhaust??? ahh
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotorwash*
> 
> I would suggest that you use one or the other. I find it easier to controls the fans on my H100i using Corsair Link and the H100i temperature (the default CL setting). This way I can fine tune cooling vs fan noise.


Oh. So I can't have both, where the h100 regulates the temps and my fans and I use the fan controller to control the h100 fans?







Would that basically screw things up a bit? I wanted to do the y cable since I didn't want to lose the h100 abilities of regulating the temp and fans but had wanted to be able to control the fan speed--that the h100 provides via the head itself--without having to manually push the button on the head but instead do it with my fan controller. :\


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathroll*
> 
> Hey again! I've run some stress test with my i5-4690K in Intel Stock Operation. Tested 30 minutes with AIDA64 and Prime95 Small FFTs, results below. Also idle temperature is between 30-35 celcius. I use NF-F12 fans mounted under the radiator as intake. I suppose these temperatures are high for stock frequencies and voltages. Outdoor temperature is about 0-2 celcius when I testing but I wasn't be able to measure indoor temperature. I suspect that I may have installed the pump unit wrong. In addition applied Artic MX-4 with pea method. Does positioning affect temps tragically?
> 
> 
> (Prime 95 Small FFTs)
> 
> 
> (AIDA64 built-in system stability test)
> 
> _Thanks in advance.._


I'm not sure you could try using those fans on top of the radiator instead as intake and see how that does? Since that would essentially allow fresher air through the radiator vs. the other way around it might lower it drastically. Though I got around the same lvl of temps when I had my on top as exhaust with stock fans so I would try it on top with intake and it may change it entirely. Just a thought. Also it depends on what speed your fans are running. I know at low rpms the NF-F12 fans are insufficient actually compared to the stock fans of the corsair but when at high rpms they actually blow it away. So it really depends on what you have it set it. So look at that too.


----------



## Swuell

So would it be alright to do a Y splitter to the H100 fan head in order for the H100 to connect to both the motherboard and a fan controller? So that the motherboard can control the H100--which monitors the CPU's temps which in turn controls the fans--while the fan controller will allow me to control the fans on the H100, which is essentially the same thing as the button on the H100's head except it just means I don't have to take off my computer case everytime I want to change the fan's rpm. So has anybody tried this?

I know people have tried connecting the radiator fans directly to the fan controller with the H100 connected to the motherboard but I'm asking about having the radiator fans connected to the H100 head and a Y splitter to the H100 head where it will then connect to the both the motherboard and the fan controller, is that viable or will something break?


----------



## moustang

I'm pretty sure that won't work. Considering that both the motherboard and fan controller would be trying to feed electrical current to the fans you would likely overload the fan and burn it up or damage the motherboard and/or the controller, or damage all 3.

Think of it this way....

If your motherboard tries to feed the fan 12V and your fan controller tries to feed the fan 12V, what is the total voltage reaching the fan? Also remember that same current goes the other way back through the ground wire to your motherboard and fan controller.

Now, I've never actually tried it myself and I'm far from the all-knowing authority on the subject, but it just seems like it would be a really bad thing to do.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> I'm pretty sure that won't work. Considering that both the motherboard and fan controller would be trying to feed electrical current to the fans you would likely overload the fan and burn it up or damage the motherboard and/or the controller, or damage all 3.
> 
> Think of it this way....
> 
> If your motherboard tries to feed the fan 12V and your fan controller tries to feed the fan 12V, what is the total voltage reaching the fan? Also remember that same current goes the other way back through the ground wire to your motherboard and fan controller.
> 
> Now, I've never actually tried it myself and I'm far from the all-knowing authority on the subject, but it just seems like it would be a really bad thing to do.


Well I was just thinking it's the same principal applied though the only thing added is a Y splitter between the corsair's head and the motherboard+fan controller.

So how it normally is put together is this way: You put the fans into corsair head. Then you stick corsair's head into the motherboard's fan header. And that's it.

So I was thinking wouldn't it be possible if you do it all the same up till you have to stick corsair's fan header into the motherboard but instead add a Y splitter into it so that you are able to plug into both the motherboard and the fan controller?

I mean you're not adding another 12V into the mix. The existing 12v is already there from the motherboard+Corsair. The only added thing into the mix is the fan controller which itself is just there to control the rpm. and the fan controller can supply up to 15w.

I get what you're saying though but that's if I were to try to add something else into it but I'm not really trying to add anything into it I"m just supplementing Corsairs push button. So I was just wondering if it was possible is all. :\ Everything else I've looked at people have just been connecting the fans directly to the fan controller to do it instead.

EDIT: Also if you have a Y splitter with molex wouldn't that solve the overloading motherboard situation?


----------



## curly haired boy

i'd say skip the h100's fan control entirely and just plug the rad fans into your mobo (for auto bios fan control) or a hardware fan controller.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> i'd say skip the h100's fan control entirely and just plug the rad fans into your mobo (for auto bios fan control) or a hardware fan controller.


Oh not enough headers on my board but ok. Though would it short circuit if I did it with the Y splitter with molex connector? Since I really do like the h100 regulating my fans I just wanted some extra control without the need to open the case is all.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Oh not enough headers on my board but ok. Though would it short circuit if I did it with the Y splitter with molex connector? Since I really do like the h100 regulating my fans I just wanted some extra control without the need to open the case is all.


The fan controller regulates the speed of the fans by regulating the voltage going to them. So hooking the fans up to 2 separate power sources would be asking for trouble.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> The fan controller regulates the speed of the fans by regulating the voltage going to them. So hooking the fans up to 2 separate power sources would be asking for trouble.


Ohh I see. Damn.. And here I really just wanted to be able to substitute corsairs lousy button... oh well I guess instead I'll just plug the fan's into the fan controller than. Well would it be ok if I plug the h100 3pin into the motherboard and the fan controller without any fans connected to the H100 -- if I wanted to be able to see the pump's tach readout on my fan controller? Or would that result in a blown fuse too


----------



## deathroll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> I'm not sure you could try using those fans on top of the radiator instead as intake and see how that does? Since that would essentially allow fresher air through the radiator vs. the other way around it might lower it drastically. Though I got around the same lvl of temps when I had my on top as exhaust with stock fans so I would try it on top with intake and it may change it entirely. Just a thought. Also it depends on what speed your fans are running. I know at low rpms the NF-F12 fans are insufficient actually compared to the stock fans of the corsair but when at high rpms they actually blow it away. So it really depends on what you have it set it. So look at that too.


I installed fans as you said. Also re-positioned the pump again, now I observe better temps. When connecting USB plug of H100i to mobo, POST is getting really slow. Is there any setting on Maximus VII Hero for controlling this device?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I have a question, I don't know if this has been already answered:
> 
> - I've heard owners of the H110 AIO claiming having better results by connecting the pump of the H110 directly to the PSU and not to the motherboard and setting the respective fan header to 100% load.
> 
> Is this true?
> Is it better, you think, to connect the pump directly to the Power Supply Unit instead of connecting it to a fan header of the motherboard and setting it to always work on full speed?
> 
> Thank you.


You're supposed to run the pump at 100% all the time. It doesn't matter where it's connected, as long as it runs at 100%.
So, here's the scoop. If you have a 3-pin fan header set to run at 100%, then that header will work fine for the pump. As for the fans, I recommend connecting them to the CPU_FAN header, even if you have to use a PWM splitter to connect both fans. The splitter will take power from the PSU (see my last post explaining all of this).

However, many newer boards have two CPU_FAN headers, so you can connect one fan to each header. Use a PSU_FAN or CHA_FAN header for the pump. Just remember, if you are connecting the pump to a 3-pin header, it's possible the board can control that by varying the voltage. Go into the BIOS and confirm that the fan header is set to run at 100% all the time, and not set to control the fan header.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> When you repaste do you repaste just the CPU or the H100 block also? I'm just a tad confused... :|


I usually just do the CPU because the cooling block is so much larger that you add TIM in areas it is not needed. The actual area on the CPU that makes contact with the block is about half the size of the block.

I use the spread method myself, which is to spread a very thin layer on the cpu (about paper thin). I've never had a problem doing it this way.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Just a quick question do you guys know if it's possible to connect a y fan splitter cable to the H100 fan cable--that connects to the mobo--so that I can connect to both to the mobo and to my fan controller, would that work? I was thinking it might be ok since one is used for rpm readings and the other is used for controlling the fan, or no?


You can run a wire from your fan controller TAC line to your motherboard TAC line on the CPU_FAN header (or whichever header you are using). I have done this myself so I could keep track of the RPM of a fan using BIOS or Windows software, but still control the fan with the fan controller.

Note, you shouldn't connect the control line of both the motherboard and the fan controller (please go back to my last post a few page ago and read the explanation for how PWM fans work, and pay special attention to the part about not adding control or TAC signals).

If you connect both the control signals from your fan controller and your motherboards, you will add the two signals together, out of sync, and just create a control mess. The fan won't know how fast it's supposed to be going because it's receiving two control signals. This is all assuming you are using PWM fans. If you are using 3-pin fans, then you could actually create a reverse flow of 12V into the motherboard CPU_FAN header and damage the motherboard. (this can happen if the motherboard decides the fan should be going slow and reduces the 12V, while you decide you want to increase the speed and increase the 12V line, thus feeding current into the motherboard).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> i'd say skip the h100's fan control entirely and just plug the rad fans into your mobo (for auto bios fan control) or a hardware fan controller.


Swuell:

This is what I'm doing on my H100, and it works perfectly. My motherboard has two CPU_FAN headers and runs both fans at the same speed. If you don't have two CPU_FAN headers, use a PWM splitter (again, read how they work so you purchase one that is wired correctly, or correct the wiring yourself after purchase).


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathroll*
> 
> I installed fans as you said. Also re-positioned the pump again, now I observe better temps. When connecting USB plug of H100i to mobo, POST is getting really slow. Is there any setting on Maximus VII Hero for controlling this device?


Ohh I'm glad that helped then! How much lower are your temps? And I have no clue concerning your mobo since I don't have that mobo XD.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> You're supposed to run the pump at 100% all the time. It doesn't matter where it's connected, as long as it runs at 100%.
> So, here's the scoop. If you have a 3-pin fan header set to run at 100%, then that header will work fine for the pump. As for the fans, I recommend connecting them to the CPU_FAN header, even if you have to use a PWM splitter to connect both fans. The splitter will take power from the PSU (see my last post explaining all of this).
> 
> However, many newer boards have two CPU_FAN headers, so you can connect one fan to each header. Use a PSU_FAN or CHA_FAN header for the pump. Just remember, if you are connecting the pump to a 3-pin header, it's possible the board can control that by varying the voltage. Go into the BIOS and confirm that the fan header is set to run at 100% all the time, and not set to control the fan header.
> I usually just do the CPU because the cooling block is so much larger that you add TIM in areas it is not needed. The actual area on the CPU that makes contact with the block is about half the size of the block.
> 
> I use the spread method myself, which is to spread a very thin layer on the cpu (about paper thin). I've never had a problem doing it this way.
> You can run a wire from your fan controller TAC line to your motherboard TAC line on the CPU_FAN header (or whichever header you are using). I have done this myself so I could keep track of the RPM of a fan using BIOS or Windows software, but still control the fan with the fan controller.
> 
> Note, you shouldn't connect the control line of both the motherboard and the fan controller (please go back to my last post a few page ago and read the explanation for how PWM fans work, and pay special attention to the part about not adding control or TAC signals).
> 
> If you connect both the control signals from your fan controller and your motherboards, you will add the two signals together, out of sync, and just create a control mess. The fan won't know how fast it's supposed to be going because it's receiving two control signals. This is all assuming you are using PWM fans. If you are using 3-pin fans, then you could actually create a reverse flow of 12V into the motherboard CPU_FAN header and damage the motherboard. (this can happen if the motherboard decides the fan should be going slow and reduces the 12V, while you decide you want to increase the speed and increase the 12V line, thus feeding current into the motherboard).
> Swuell:
> 
> This is what I'm doing on my H100, and it works perfectly. My motherboard has two CPU_FAN headers and runs both fans at the same speed. If you don't have two CPU_FAN headers, use a PWM splitter (again, read how they work so you purchase one that is wired correctly, or correct the wiring yourself after purchase).


Oh man. Thanks for the response, I didn't know you actually went and explained the PWM but I'll go back and find it. Guess I can't keep what I wanted then :|. *Sigh* Oh welll. But just to be clear since you said I could run the tac line would it be ok if I ran the H100 3 pin tac line into a y splitter to connect to motherboard and controller? Or would that ruin something too? :|


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Oh man. Thanks for the response, I didn't know you actually went and explained the PWM but I'll go back and find it. Guess I can't keep what I wanted then :|. *Sigh* Oh welll. But just to be clear since you said I could run the tac line would it be ok if I ran the H100 3 pin tac line into a y splitter to connect to motherboard and controller? Or would that ruin something too? :|


This thread is huge, and there no way to have a simple index or anything. One cannot be expected to dig through the entire thread looking for some tidbit of info. It's just a funny coincidence that you asked this just after we had been discussing something similar.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> This thread is huge, and there no way to have a simple index or anything. One cannot be expected to dig through the entire thread looking for some tidbit of info. It's just a funny coincidence that you asked this just after we had been discussing something similar.


Well so is what I'm asking this time possible? And I apologize if it's already been asked before. I've searched throughout the thread on your explanation but not sure if I read the correct post or not.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> This thread is huge, and there no way to have a simple index or anything. One cannot be expected to dig through the entire thread looking for some tidbit of info. It's just a funny coincidence that you asked this just after we had been discussing something similar.


There is a "Search this thread" function though, which cuts down on the amount of random searching that needs to be done.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> There is a "Search this thread" function though, which cuts down on the amount of random searching that needs to be done.


Used it though the function is albeit a bit limited lol.


----------



## Lacpiii

Hello

This is my rig:

http://www.kephost.com/image/F07g


----------



## twitch133

Just finished a new rig using an H100i



A link to a whole gallery of it...
http://kylegehlaar.smugmug.com/Electronics/Comp/46654212_MDXCg8


----------



## rotorwash

Sweet! What case is it?


----------



## twitch133

Its a Corsair 750d


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I think you need a second for your graphics card.


----------



## kolo7127

Just got some corsair SP120 PWM fans for my H105 and I cant regulate their speed from the CPU header on my EVGA z97 Stinger even in the BIOS. I can control them fine on other headers and have some scythe glidstream pwm fans that work with that same header just fine. It looks as though even though the SP120's are infact PWM They only respond to voltage control vs PWM signal. It would appear that my mobo's CPU header only supplies PWM signal and not voltage control as the other headers do. Can anyone verify the actual PWM operation of the SP 120's ? Its also possible the PWM signal is broken on the mobo I suppose, is there a way to check proper functionality of a fan header with a volt meter?


----------



## VSG

They do regulate via PWM but they don't follow the standard Intel implementation fully. It should still be ok for 2-4 fans though.


----------



## kolo7127

Looks like my CPU header may not be working properly then. I havent tested the scythe fans since i moved from the 250d to the 380t. Wonder if I damaged something in the move. It used to work fine with 3 scythe glide stream 120's and 2 noctua 80mm fans hooked up via this 5 way splitter, which gets power from the PSU and PWM signal from the mobo and sends bach the tach info of one fan. Three SP120's connected to the same 5 way splitter connected to the same CPU header they ran at 100%. So I ruled out the splitter by just using one fan on the CPU header. The single fan still ran at 100%. With 2 SP 120's connected to the PWR fan header via a Y splitter they work as expected. I haven't tried the CHA header yet. Worst case I will move the pump from the CHA header to the CPU header as all I want for the pump is 100% operation. I use Speedfan to adjust fan speeds while in windows. I still want to try my older fans on the CPU header to see if its compatability of the SP 120's and the CPU header. That would be weird as I havent ever seen that before.

BTW. Off topic. Thanks Geggeg for your review of the 380t. I referenced it alot while making my decision to purchase it. I manged to cram the H105 in there with some modification to the CPU power connector. I canibalized an old 8 pin connector from an old power supply to create a low profile one. The CPU power connector was the only thing in the way of the H105 with my EVGA z97 stinger


----------



## VSG

Heh thanks. I have some AIOs now so I should be able to update the cooling section soon.


----------



## Juliotech

Specs:
Case Corsair Obsidian 750D Full Tower
Power Supply Corsair HX 850 80+ Gold
Mobo: Asus M5A99FX Pro R2.0.
CPU: FX 8350 Black Edition OC 4.5 ghz.
Cooler: Corsair H110 con 2 Corsair AF140
Ram: 8 gb Corsair Vengeance Pro 1866.
Gpu: MSI R7850 2GB Power Edition (Trying to get a Gtx970 from Gigabyte)
HDD: 1 Tb Western Digital
Monitor: Asus VN247









Can i join the club?


----------



## kolo7127

Here's my new Rig... Still can't believe I crammed the H105 in here. Had to Modify the 8 Pin CPU Power to fit it. Still waiting on my white 24 Pin Mobo Power Cable.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## mAs81

Nice job







it looks great


----------



## rotorwash

@kolo7127 nice job. Is it loud?


----------



## kolo7127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotorwash*
> 
> @kolo7127 nice job. Is it loud?


With a proper fan profile, its dead quiet at idle and only gets loud when fans go above 75%. Regular gaming and use barely make this thing work that hard to crank up the fans, stress testing however will. Above 75% its a bit loud but still tolerable.


----------



## Penryn

So this H75 I just picked up pulled 10C off my load temps compared to my XSPC Rasa kit that just had the combo pump/res die. I was considering getting a replacement pump/res but this little thing is making me rethink that...

Plus without the res taking up 2 5.25 bays I can use the fan controller I've had sitting around for like 2 years.


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kolo7127*
> 
> With a proper fan profile, its dead quiet at idle and only gets loud when fans go above 75%. Regular gaming and use barely make this thing work that hard to crank up the fans, stress testing however will. Above 75% its a bit loud but still tolerable.


Actually you can probably leave the fan at 1200RPM ish and temps won't even cross 80C, but well it depends on your CPU and ambient temps. I can have my H80i stay at 1200RPM on the stock fans only on pull and cool my 4.6GHz 4690K under 80C even while under x264 stress test or [email protected]


----------



## Sharchaster

First hello everyone

have problems with my H100i....it seems like the cooler doesn't perform as well as the first time I install it. For your information, I overclock my CPU to 4.8 GHz @1.266 volt...but because the temps is quite high IMO after 3 weeks of usage, so I decided to change the paste with the new one (the paste is MX-4), though.....

before I take apart the cooler, everything seems fine....my CPU can pass stress test many times even the temps is quite high (it's 85-90 degrees) using XTU benchmarks.

The temps on idle was great. the paste gave me a significant increase on performance....now on idle is at 30-32 degrees (the old one is at 39 degrees).

The main problems come when I re-test with XTU. *The temps is SAME or sometimes HIGHER than before...it doesn't change like on idle*

And the worst part is made my system crash many times with those settings, EVEN the temps is SAME as before.

So I got cooler temps when IDLE, but HIGHER temps on FULL LOAD.....it's strange, IMO....Almost can't believe until now.

If the mounting goes bad, there's no way my idle temps is at 32 degrees now...it will definitely worse than before....

The fans is stock....What I must do now? Change the fans? or something? quite confused, now.









The pump is fine, btw....the speed is at (2215 RPM)....


----------



## Ceadderman

Of course Full load temp will be higher than Idle.

Problem with answering your question is two fold. You didn't give us what load temp is. And what is your ambient temp?

If your Idle temp is higher than your base temp from previous, I would suggest replacing your TIM, perform burn-in again and see what that does. If you haven't run Prime to burn in your current TIM, then do that and then look at your temps and compare those to your initial installation temps.









~Ceadder


----------



## Sharchaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> *Of course Full load temp will be higher than Idle.*
> 
> Problem with answering your question is two fold. You didn't give us what load temp is. And what is your ambient temp?
> 
> If your Idle temp is higher than your base temp from previous, I would suggest replacing your TIM, perform burn-in again and see what that does. If you haven't run Prime to burn in your current TIM, then do that and then look at your temps and compare those to your initial installation temps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No, I don't meant that

*I meant, when full load (after replace the TIM) is higher than previous full load (before replace the TIM)*...the ambient temps is same, it's arround 26-28 degrees.

As I said before, the idle temps is great...the problems is full load.

Before replace the TIM, it never touches 92 degress on XTU test...the max it's 90 (it's only one time)....the average is 84 [email protected] GHz


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sharchaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> *Of course Full load temp will be higher than Idle.*
> 
> Problem with answering your question is two fold. You didn't give us what load temp is. And what is your ambient temp?
> 
> If your Idle temp is higher than your base temp from previous, I would suggest replacing your TIM, perform burn-in again and see what that does. If you haven't run Prime to burn in your current TIM, then do that and then look at your temps and compare those to your initial installation temps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, I don't meant that
> 
> *I meant, when full load (after replace the TIM) is higher than previous full load (before replace the TIM)*...the ambient temps is same, it's arround 26-28 degrees.
> 
> As I said before, the idle temps is great...the problems is full load.
> 
> Before replace the TIM, it never touches 92 degress on XTU test...the max it's 90 (it's only one time)....the average is 84 [email protected] GHz
Click to expand...

Okay, again...

*"If your Idle temp is higher than your base temp from previous, I would suggest replacing your TIM, perform burn-in again and see what that does. If you haven't run Prime to burn in your current TIM, then do that and then look at your temps and compare those to your initial installation temps. "*

Not to be critical of you or your proficiency in any way shape or form. It does not matter the cooler, (Air, Water, Phase etc) you need to run your system @ Full Load for a period of time to get the best heat dissipation from your Cooler.

I dunno maybe I misread your conundrum, but that's what it looks like on my end of things.









:Edit: It could also be that your current TIM is > Stock TIM. Happens. I use G751 and it's a surefire performer ranked @/ the top of the pile.









~Ceadder


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> [...] I use G751 and it's a surefire performer ranked @/ the top of the pile.


Hmmm, I've not ever seen Shin-Etsu G751 perform all that well in comparative testing, and I'd be surprised if it did seeing as @ 4.5 W/m°K it has so much worse of a thermal conductivity rating than what I've considered to be good TIMs like GeLid GC-Extreme aka Phobya HeGrease, EK-TIM Ectotherm, or even MX-4, all of which have a thermal conductivity rating of 8.5 W/m°K or Prolimatech PK-1 which is 10.2 W/mK. I'm just sayin'.


----------



## Sharchaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It does not matter the cooler, (Air, Water, Phase etc) you need to run your system @ Full Load for a period of time to get the best heat dissipation from your Cooler.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ok I'll wait for another days, though. Guess I was expecting too much at the first time I finished repaste the TIM.


----------



## kolo7127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awesomeguy10578*
> 
> Actually you can probably leave the fan at 1200RPM ish and temps won't even cross 80C, but well it depends on your CPU and ambient temps. I can have my H80i stay at 1200RPM on the stock fans only on pull and cool my 4.6GHz 4690K under 80C even while under x264 stress test or [email protected]


Thanks I'll have to test that out, it feels like to me these SP120's are slow to speed up. My ambient temps range from 74F to 79F in the room (I have a 5 month old, and a wife who likes to keep the room warm for her). However this thing sits in the entertainment center and stews in its own heat as well. Honestly I dont mind the 100% fan noise when stress testing, my 4790K @ 4.6 GHz and 1.24V will hit 90C on the hottest core using the very high setting on IBT. I havent checked the others, like prme95 and x264. Normal gaming and use never push this thing that hard. I have the case fans max out at 70% unless temps over 80C CPU fans will do 100% if the CPU hits anything over 60C, but again it never gets that hot unless I'm stress testing.


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kolo7127*
> 
> Thanks I'll have to test that out, it feels like to me these SP120's are slow to speed up. My ambient temps range from 74F to 79F in the room (I have a 5 month old, and a wife who likes to keep the room warm for her). However this thing sits in the entertainment center and stews in its own heat as well. Honestly I dont mind the 100% fan noise when stress testing, my 4790K @ 4.6 GHz and 1.24V will hit 90C on the hottest core using the very high setting on IBT. I havent checked the others, like prme95 and x264. Normal gaming and use never push this thing that hard. I have the case fans max out at 70% unless temps over 80C CPU fans will do 100% if the CPU hits anything over 60C, but again it never gets that hot unless I'm stress testing.


I don't mind 100% fan noise either, but I'd rather not to ofcourse and with my custom fan curve it never really reaches 100% under normal uses. I don't think using IBT and P95 is a good idea since I've seen many horror stories of it killing Haswells, just stick to using x264 stress test.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> [...] I use G751 and it's a surefire performer ranked @/ the top of the pile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm, I've not ever seen Shin-Etsu G751 perform all that well in comparative testing, and I'd be surprised if it did seeing as @ 4.5 W/m°K it has so much worse of a thermal conductivity rating than what I've considered to be good TIMs like GeLid GC-Extreme aka Phobya HeGrease, EK-TIM Ectotherm, or even MX-4, all of which have a thermal conductivity rating of 8.5 W/m°K or Prolimatech PK-1 which is 10.2 W/mK. I'm just sayin'.
Click to expand...

It is pretty solid performancewise. We all know that mfr specs look really pretty on the package. But real world application is where the proof is in the pudding. I have always used Shin Etsu because it has been ranked at or near the top of the TIM pile.

You can find proof in my Sig... "80 way TIM..."

Now, that said, I have been away for awhile and things may have changed somewhat. But imho G751 ranks near or at the top.









~Ceadder


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

A 2009 test that says Shin-Etsu G751 is tied with Arctic Silver 5 as the two best TIMs available.










I'd have to pass on that one. Never have a I used any TIM, even no-name stuff that came with coolers and blocks, that didn't give me a noticeable improvement over the AS5 I was removing, back from when I used to use AS5 ~5 if not more years ago.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> A 2009 test that says Shin-Etsu G751 is tied with Arctic Silver 5 as the two best TIMs available.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd have to pass on that one. Never have a I used any TIM, even no-name stuff that came with coolers and blocks, that didn't give me a noticeable improvement over the AS5 I was removing, back from when I used to use AS5 ~5 if not more years ago.


There's a TIM comparison that was conducted more recently (2013), but for whatever reason, they didn't include either of the Shin-Etsu compounds. Just found another comparison that does include more compounds

Not much has changed in the world of thermal compounds, so there isn't really a need to continue doing comparisons on them.


----------



## DR4G00N

The H110 uses 6-32 thread screws right? Or does it use M3?


----------



## Kryptonian8077

Here is my build.



I love this cooler, my temps dropped from 40c idle/85c load with the stock cooler to 28c idle/55c load.

i7-2600
Asus P8P67 Deluxe
x4 4GB G.Skill 2133MHz
EVGA GTX 970 in two-way SLI Mode.


----------



## kolo7127

I want to paint one of my H105 pump rings, and the removable part of my vengeance pro heatsinks white. Any one have any suggestions on what type of paint to use?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> A 2009 test that says Shin-Etsu G751 is tied with Arctic Silver 5 as the two best TIMs available.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd have to pass on that one. Never have a I used any TIM, even no-name stuff that came with coolers and blocks, that didn't give me a noticeable improvement over the AS5 I was removing, back from when I used to use AS5 ~5 if not more years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> I know that it was in 2009 but it's still relevant to this day.
> 
> There's a TIM comparison that was conducted more recently (2013), but for whatever reason, they didn't include either of the Shin-Etsu compounds. Just found another comparison that does include more compounds
> 
> Not much has changed in the world of thermal compounds, so there isn't really a need to continue doing comparisons on them.
Click to expand...

Exactly. Though I am not surprised that Shin-Etsu didn't make that comparison. That list is pretty chintzy given how many options are on the market.

Somewhere around I saw a comparison and for shiggles they included Mayonaise in the comparison. I've got it somewhere on my RAID but that's sitting on a shelf in my closet while I'm working my project.









~Ceadder


----------



## bill1024

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kolo7127*
> 
> I want to paint one of my H105 pump rings, and the removable part of my vengeance pro heatsinks white. Any one have any suggestions on what type of paint to use?


I would use a can of spray enamel. Make sure you wash off any oil that may be on the parts.
Dawn dish soap or something like that.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bill1024*
> 
> I would use a can of spray enamel. Make sure you wash off any oil that may be on the parts.
> Dawn dish soap or something like that.


how about painting the hoses? same paint? I wouldn't mind painting my hoses blue on my h100i,


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Exactly. Though I am not surprised that Shin-Etsu didn't make that comparison. That list is pretty chintzy given how many options are on the market.
> 
> Somewhere around I saw a comparison and for shiggles they included Mayonaise in the comparison. I've got it somewhere on my RAID but that's sitting on a shelf in my closet while I'm working my project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I personally prefer Shin-Etsu, but not the 751 - the other blend is better....I think its 758 or something like that....

EDIT: The compound I prefer is the Shin-Etsu X23-7783, beats out the 751. It outperforms almost every other thermal compound, in basically every comparison you can find it in. It's good stuff, really thick, but really good stuff....









I was pretty amazed with the results of the mayonnaise, and the other weird things on there - looks like cream cheese performed decently also....


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bill1024*
> 
> I would use a can of spray enamel. Make sure you wash off any oil that may be on the parts.
> Dawn dish soap or something like that.
> 
> 
> 
> how about painting the hoses? same paint? I wouldn't mind painting my hoses blue on my h100i,
Click to expand...

Yeah um... no.

If you do, you will know why I take this stance the first time you pull the unit to clean it. Paint on flexible surfaces are not for the faint of heart.









~Ceadder


----------



## bill1024

Yeah paint on flex hoses the paint will crack split and fall off.
There is a product called plasti dip or some thing like that. You can look more in to that. I think it stays flexible. Cost????
You can wrap the hoses with colored electrical tape maybe to get some color in there.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah um... no.
> 
> If you do, you will know why I take this stance the first time you pull the unit to clean it. Paint on flexible surfaces are not for the faint of heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bill1024*
> 
> Yeah paint on flex hoses the paint will crack split and fall off.
> There is a product called plasti dip or some thing like that. You can look more in to that. I think it stays flexible. Cost????
> You can wrap the hoses with colored electrical tape maybe to get some color in there.


it was just a thought. Too bad it will void my warranty if i change out the hoses in favor of UV blue ones.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah um... no.
> 
> If you do, you will know why I take this stance the first time you pull the unit to clean it. Paint on flexible surfaces are not for the faint of heart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bill1024*
> 
> Yeah paint on flex hoses the paint will crack split and fall off.
> There is a product called plasti dip or some thing like that. You can look more in to that. I think it stays flexible. Cost????
> You can wrap the hoses with colored electrical tape maybe to get some color in there.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> it was just a thought. Too bad it will void my warranty if i change out the hoses in favor of UV blue ones.
Click to expand...

You could wrap the tubing with larger tubing and not void your warranty. Like this ...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1342306/lol-how-weird-does-my-h100i-tube-mod-look/


----------



## NorKris

Just build a "semi-new" system









got my self a H105







cooling my new i7 5930k @4.3Ghz atm temps at prime95 load is 49c insane! (push/pull config with corsairs APfans
other specs: Msi SLi pluss x99 motherboard - 4 GB ddr4 2133Mhz (just for now







) - 4x 120GB kingston hyperX SSD's in raid0 1.64 GB/s read/writes - 2x 680s sli 1.13Ghz OC
XFX 850w psu - cooler master storm trooper case windowd

also got one H80i and one H60 cooling my graphics cards - Furmark temps at max: 53c and 48c


----------



## MikeSp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kolo7127*
> 
> Just got some corsair SP120 PWM fans for my H105 and I cant regulate their speed from the CPU header on my EVGA z97 Stinger even in the BIOS. I can control them fine on other headers and have some scythe glidstream pwm fans that work with that same header just fine. It looks as though even though the SP120's are infact PWM They only respond to voltage control vs PWM signal. It would appear that my mobo's CPU header only supplies PWM signal and not voltage control as the other headers do. Can anyone verify the actual PWM operation of the SP 120's ? Its also possible the PWM signal is broken on the mobo I suppose, is there a way to check proper functionality of a fan header with a volt meter?


My SP120 LED fans only have 3 conductors which I believe to mean that the sense pin or conductor is missing and thus are not PWM. I am using voltage to control them from the motherboard fan header. Somebody correct me if wrong.

Mike


----------



## kolo7127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeSp*
> 
> My SP120 LED fans only have 3 conductors which I believe to mean that the sense pin or conductor is missing and thus are not PWM. I am using voltage to control them from the motherboard fan header. Somebody correct me if wrong.
> 
> Mike


Sounds about right as the LED flavors of the SP120's do not come in PWM.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Hmmm, I've not ever seen Shin-Etsu G751 perform all that well in comparative testing, and I'd be surprised if it did seeing as @ 4.5 W/m°K it has so much worse of a thermal conductivity rating than what I've considered to be good TIMs like GeLid GC-Extreme aka Phobya HeGrease, EK-TIM Ectotherm, or even MX-4, all of which have a thermal conductivity rating of 8.5 W/m°K or Prolimatech PK-1 which is 10.2 W/mK. I'm just sayin'.


Actually, Shin Etsu is considered to be one of the best non-metal TIMs available.

http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=12

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Thermal-Compound-Roundup-February-2012/1490/5

There is an abundance of great TIMs with only a few degrees separation between them

Just a note for any naysayers out there, notice in both of those roundups that AS5 (Arctic Silver 5) does very well, enthusiast class. I use AS5 exclusively, and have for many many years, both at home and professionally. It always does an excellent job, even though it requires about a week of curing time to get the absolute best temp (the temp will lower 1-3c more after about a week of on/off, load unload usage). Also note, even though you may have read it in various places, *AS5 is not electrically conductive*. I have tested this myself with a meter. According to the Arctic Silver website, it is slightly capacitive, and could cause a problem if you smear it over components or some traces. However, I have to point out that, if one cannot use TIM without smearing it over sensitive components, then perhaps that person should consider not playing around with the internals of their computer.

Sorry, just had to point that out. We do get some people in here once in a while dissing AS5 when in reality it is one of the best TIMs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> A 2009 test that says Shin-Etsu G751 is tied with Arctic Silver 5 as the two best TIMs available.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd have to pass on that one. Never have a I used any TIM, even no-name stuff that came with coolers and blocks, that didn't give me a noticeable improvement over the AS5 I was removing, back from when I used to use AS5 ~5 if not more years ago.


That's odd because over the 10 or more years I have been using it I have found exactly the opposite result. Same goes with TIM roundups and testing done and posted on the 'net.

Keep up all the great work guys. This is still one of the best Corsair AIO threads on the 'net.


----------



## MikeSp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kolo7127*
> 
> Just got some corsair SP120 PWM fans for my H105 and I cant regulate their speed from the CPU header on my EVGA z97 Stinger even in the BIOS. I can control them fine on other headers and have some scythe glidstream pwm fans that work with that same header just fine. It looks as though even though the SP120's are infact PWM They only respond to voltage control vs PWM signal. It would appear that my mobo's CPU header only supplies PWM signal and not voltage control as the other headers do. Can anyone verify the actual PWM operation of the SP 120's ? Its also possible the PWM signal is broken on the mobo I suppose, is there a way to check proper functionality of a fan header with a volt meter?


The stock SP120 fans on my H105 were four pin PWM fans and worked fine off of the CPU fan header -- I would think that about all modern motherboards would have PWM control on the CPU header. (When I replaced them with LED versions of the SP120's, they were 3 pin and I had to then use DC regulation.) In my UEFI BIOS, there is a choice of control of each fan header -- PWM or DC -- perhaps there is one hidden somewhere in the UEFI BIOS for your motherboard where you manually make the choice. Good luck.

Mike


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Actually, Shin Etsu is considered to be one of the best non-metal TIMs available.
> 
> http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=12
> 
> http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Thermal-Compound-Roundup-February-2012/1490/5
> 
> There is an abundance of great TIMs with only a few degrees separation between them
> 
> Just a note for any naysayers out there, notice in both of those roundups that AS5 (Arctic Silver 5) does very well, enthusiast class. I use AS5 exclusively, and have for many many years, both at home and professionally. It always does an excellent job, even though it requires about a week of curing time to get the absolute best temp (the temp will lower 1-3c more after about a week of on/off, load unload usage). Also note, even though you may have read it in various places, *AS5 is not electrically conductive*. I have tested this myself with a meter. According to the Arctic Silver website, it is slightly capacitive, and could cause a problem if you smear it over components or some traces. However, I have to point out that, if one cannot use TIM without smearing it over sensitive components, then perhaps that person should consider not playing around with the internals of their computer.
> 
> Sorry, just had to point that out. We do get some people in here once in a while dissing AS5 when in reality it is one of the best TIMs.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> A 2009 test that says Shin-Etsu G751 is tied with Arctic Silver 5 as the two best TIMs available.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd have to pass on that one. Never have a I used any TIM, even no-name stuff that came with coolers and blocks, that didn't give me a noticeable improvement over the AS5 I was removing, back from when I used to use AS5 ~5 if not more years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> That's odd because over the 10 or more years I have been using it I have found exactly the opposite result. Same goes with TIM roundups and testing done and posted on the 'net.
> 
> Keep up all the great work guys. This is still one of the best Corsair AIO threads on the 'net.
Click to expand...

Years ago (~2010-ish?) when Arctic first came out with their MX-4 I used it to replace their Arctic Silver 5 that I was using first just on one air cooler and was pleasantly surprised by the improved temps I got, so I set out and replaced the AS5 TIM on every cooler in the house, iirc 5 in all at the time, and saw at least that 1C improvement on every single one of them and never went back to AS5 after that.

Then around 2 yrs or so ago in the OCN Watercooling Club thread, back when I was still lurking here and was still contemplating making the switch from CLC AIO to a custom loop, there was a long discussion where it was nearly unanimous that the most recommended TIM by a dozen or more members was GeLid GC Extreme, with only a few people recommending something else like Coolaboratory's or Indigo Extreme's products which are extraordinary but have some serious drawbacks as well and can't really be compared to a thermal paste. So I gave GC Extreme a shot and similarly saw across the board at least a 1C improvement as I replaced the MX4 on all of our air coolers, and especially on the H110 I was using at the time over whatever came on it and if I'm not mistaken I believe it came with Shin-Etsu TIM.

In fact, all the temp improvements I've seen through my shifts in preferred TIMs are reflected pretty well in this 2014 test ..

*Thermal Paste Comparison: 39 Products Get Tested*
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-performance-benchmark,3616.html

And though Shin-Etsu wasn't included by name in that test they did test the "_thermal paste bundled with Corsair's coolers_" which iirc depending on which of their AIOs they are talking about used either Shin-Etsu or another TIM that the OCN Corsair rep (George I think it was) said a few years back was "superior" to the Shin-Etsu. In either case the Corsair TIM and the AS5 fared ok in that test but nothing spectacular. There's just no way I would ever go back to using AS5, not even if it was free. It's just not even close to being in the same league as Gelid GC Extreme (aka Phobya HeGrease) and if anyone is putting Shin-Etsu alongside '_Arctic Silver 5 as the two best TIMs available_', well, that's an argument I just can't buy into.


----------



## deathroll

Does it worth to replacing H110's fans with Noctua NF-A14s or NF-A15s? I don't really disturbed about noise of the stock fans. But can Noctua fans dramatically change cooling efficiency? It seems that the stock fans not looking pressure optimized.


----------



## MikeSp

This has nothing to do with the price of tea in China but I sure wish Noctua would change the color of their fans -- I have never owned/made a computer in which beige/tan looked good since I always have a window showing a neat interior.


----------



## Ceadderman

The reason they're tied is the both perform similarly but G751 has ~8hrs burn in time where comparatively AS5 is 8 or more days.

Now that may not seem like a big deal, but imho, I would rather know if I have to perform a reseat on a customer build in 1 day rather than have them complaining about BSODs that are brought about due to heat issues. Even better when it's my own system and I am not wasting days to burn in the TIM and can start gaming almost immediately by comaparison to AS5s long burn in period.









It really is subjective to your personal requirements and needs tho.









~Ceadder


----------



## richro

Looking to get the H105 for a new Fractal Arc Mini case. Probably will put it on top of the case.
I've seen mixed opinions on exhaust vs intake, and push vs. pull (will probably not go with push/pull setup).

What is the optimal fan setup for keeping both CPU and GPU (air-cooled) temps down?
I am thinking top H105 exhaust, rear exhaust, front intake. PSU is at bottom of case pulling cool air from bottom and out the back.
Should I use fans to push or pull?


----------



## rotorwash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeSp*
> 
> This has nothing to do with the price of tea in China but I sure wish Noctua would change the color of their fans -- I have never owned/made a computer in which beige/tan looked good since I always have a window showing a neat interior.


They are ugly, chuckle.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotorwash*
> 
> They are ugly, chuckle.


I definitely second this opinion - they may be quiet, but they're hideous.....hehehe....


----------



## NIK1

These Noctua industrial fans look not bad. Black ,and you can remove the tan rubber corner vibration mounts.


----------



## rotorwash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> 
> These Noctua industrial fans look not bad. Black ,and you can remove the tan rubber corner vibration mounts.


What are their speed? Are they quiet?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Years ago (~2010-ish?) when Arctic first came out with their MX-4 I used it to replace their Arctic Silver 5 that I was using first just on one air cooler and was pleasantly surprised by the improved temps I got, so I set out and replaced the AS5 TIM on every cooler in the house, iirc 5 in all at the time, and saw at least that 1C improvement on every single one of them and never went back to AS5 after that.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Then around 2 yrs or so ago in the OCN Watercooling Club thread, back when I was still lurking here and was still contemplating making the switch from CLC AIO to a custom loop, there was a long discussion where it was nearly unanimous that the most recommended TIM by a dozen or more members was GeLid GC Extreme, with only a few people recommending something else like Coolaboratory's or Indigo Extreme's products which are extraordinary but have some serious drawbacks as well and can't really be compared to a thermal paste. So I gave GC Extreme a shot and similarly saw across the board at least a 1C improvement as I replaced the MX4 on all of our air coolers, and especially on the H110 I was using at the time over whatever came on it and if I'm not mistaken I believe it came with Shin-Etsu TIM.
> 
> In fact, all the temp improvements I've seen through my shifts in preferred TIMs are reflected pretty well in this 2014 test ..
> 
> 
> *Thermal Paste Comparison: 39 Products Get Tested*
> http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-performance-benchmark,3616.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> And though Shin-Etsu wasn't included by name in that test they did test the "_thermal paste bundled with Corsair's coolers_" which iirc depending on which of their AIOs they are talking about used either Shin-Etsu or another TIM that the OCN Corsair rep (George I think it was) said a few years back was "superior" to the Shin-Etsu. In either case the Corsair TIM and the AS5 fared ok in that test but nothing spectacular. There's just no way I would ever go back to using AS5, not even if it was free. It's just not even close to being in the same league as Gelid GC Extreme (aka Phobya HeGrease) and if anyone is putting Shin-Etsu alongside '_Arctic Silver 5 as the two best TIMs available_', well, that's an argument I just can't buy into.


In that comparison you sent, you're looking at a difference of 1.2c between your GeLid GC Extreme(31.8) and AS5 (33.0) for the closed loop liquid cooler with high mounting pressure . How you can say that 1.2 degrees is not in the same league, well I don't get you point there. In fact, knowing how the temperature can fluctuate during testing, 1 degree is pretty much a margin of error. *There is also no mention in the article of waiting for the curing time to pass for AS5. From my own experience, you can get another 1-3c improvement after the curing time.*
Note that AS5 is only 3 degrees more than the liquid ultra, which is a metal TIM. This shows the AS5 performing really well in my opinion.
As for the author of the comparison, well usually I like Tom's, but in this case his description of AS5 in not very accurate. His own results show AS5 for be an excellent TIM for AIO water coolers. Even this same comparison showed AS5 (without curing I assume) to be .4 degrees better than the Corsair TIM (which is Dow Corning). I consider .4 degrees to be almost unmeasurable, other than by using mathematical averages. So, basically AS5 and Corsair's TIM are tied, yet the author likes the Corsair TIM but feels that there's something wrong with AS5. From the article: "However, it shows its age and does not keep up with the best pastes out there today.", while his own data clearly show AS5 keeping up just fine.

As I mentioned, there are quite a lot of really great TIMs available, all within about 3c of each other. There has never been such a wide variety of quality TIMs available before.

As I said, I have been using it since it came out and it has always performed well for me. I have no idea why you were getting such high differences, however if you're talking one degree then personally I wouldn't consider that even worth the time to change the TIM.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

There's where we disagree strongly. Nothing in watercooling is 'worth it' if you're not worried about a 1C difference or more. Myself, I spend hundreds on going after that extra 1C. >$800 on a system's watercooling is nothing. I've built 3 loops in the past year each costing a lot more than that and the build I'm currently working on already has more than $600 invested in just the rads alone.


----------



## Mergatroid

As it states in the comparison article you linked to, if your build depends on 1c you are courting disaster.

Sure, I overclock, and I use an AIO water cooler, but 1c is not going to make any difference to my system one way or the other. I would hate for me to set my system so that it dies over 1c. It also would make zero difference to my customers or their computers, none of which depend on 1c.

I could increase my temp in my cpu by 5c under full load without causing any trouble at all. I'm comfortable with that. I'm not comfortable with 1c, and I have no intentions of pushing the limits of my system. If you're just looking for bragging rights, then 1c might make a difference. I could care less about bragging rights myself, obviously or I wouldn't be using an AIO water cooler. In the vast majority of applications, 1c just doesn't make any difference.


----------



## NIK1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotorwash*
> 
> What are their speed? Are they quiet?


They have 2 industrial fan models a 2000 rpm and a 3000 rpm one. I think YouTube has some vids on these fans, probably very loud at top end rpm.


----------



## Ceadderman

Not to stir the pot here but... 80 TIMs' have been around since before 2009. Just an FYI.









And another FYI... 1c can mean the difference between a successful OC and a BSoD. So really it does matter. Maybe not to some but this is OCN where everything matters to *most*.









~Ceadder


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not to stir the pot here but... 80 TIMs' have been around since before 2009. Just an FYI.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another FYI... 1c can mean the difference between a successful OC and a BSoD. So really it does matter. Maybe not to some but this is OCN where everything matters to *most*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It's not that 1C matters, but 1C per component can add up, plus, that 1C on the low end in temps could be 2 or 3C on the higher end. Combine that with other components "1C" difference and you can be looking at a 10C difference. Other than the liquid metal based TIMs, they are all close in price so why not go for the slightly better performer?


----------



## rotorwash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> They have 2 industrial fan models a 2000 rpm and a 3000 rpm one. I think YouTube has some vids on these fans, probably very loud at top end rpm.


Thanks!


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Just in case you guys haven't seen it yet, *Corsair H100i GT* . Newest member of our Hydro series family.


----------



## VSG

You mean the H110i GT









Although a little birdie did say that a few other Hydro series AIOs, including the H100i, will be revised to get this same CPU block/pump unit.


----------



## kolo7127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Just in case you guys haven't seen it yet, *Corsair H100i GT* . Newest member of our Hydro series family.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You mean the H110i GT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although a little birdie did say that a few other Hydro series AIOs, including the H100i, will be revised to get this same CPU block/pump unit.


Well... when can we get them? And whats the deal with the HG10's 780s... wheres the 980s c'mon corsair!


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Just in case you guys haven't seen it yet, *Corsair H100i GT* . Newest member of our Hydro series family.


It looks good,though I liked the H75 pump look better , with the interchangeable color accent rings


----------



## kolo7127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> It looks good,though I liked the H75 pump look better , with the interchangeable color accent rings


I have to agree with that, though this is better looking than the current H100i and H110 pumps.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You mean the H110i GT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although a little birdie did say that a few other Hydro series AIOs, including the H100i, will be revised to get this same CPU block/pump unit.


From what I read on a facebook post from NCIX, it is supposed to include all the "i" series AIOs


----------



## VSG

More like recent coolers. The H75 was on that list too if I remember correctly.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not to stir the pot here but... 80 TIMs' have been around since before 2009. Just an FYI.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another FYI... 1c can mean the difference between a successful OC and a BSoD. So really it does matter. Maybe not to some but this is OCN where everything matters to *most*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That's what was referred to as "courting disaster". That's why it's better to have a safety range where a movement of 1c won't matter. That was the whole point of my last comment. You're not going to run your system on a 1c cutting edge all the time, and for people to whom 1c really would make a difference for cutting edge bragging rights, well they're not going to be running an AIO water cooler anyway. Heck, if 1 c is so important, then everyone would be using metal TIMs.

The bottom line is, for me AS5 works great. After a week of use it gives me as good a performance of most any other TIM, with the exception of metal TIMs, it's available anywhere, and it's reliable. According to that last link posted to a Tom's article, without curing time the AS5 beat out the Corsair TIM by a fraction of a degree on the AIO water coolers. I see nothing wrong with a TIM in that league. I like the Corsair (Dow Corning) TIM too. If I was at a computer store looking for TIM, and they had the Dow Corning there, I would have no problem purchasing it either. All the TIMs we have been discussing are good TIMs, including the AS5.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> It's not that 1C matters, but 1C per component can add up, plus, that 1C on the low end in temps could be 2 or 3C on the higher end. Combine that with other components "1C" difference and you can be looking at a 10C difference. Other than the liquid metal based TIMs, they are all close in price so why not go for the slightly better performer?


1c isn't enough for me to go out of my way to look for, or order something else. Because, even though all those things you are referring to could add up to 10c, we're talking about 1c and it would only make that 10c go to 9c.

You're right though. Go for whatever is the best available TIM when you're purchasing. I usually get mine from a local store when I'm purchasing other parts, and they carry AS5 and some other TIMs. I like AS5 best out of what they carry. If 1 c was important enough to go out of my way to get some other TIM, then I would.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not to stir the pot here but... 80 TIMs' have been around since before 2009. Just an FYI.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And another FYI... 1c can mean the difference between a successful OC and a BSoD. So really it does matter. Maybe not to some but this is OCN where everything matters to *most*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's what was referred to as "courting disaster". That's why it's better to have a safety range where a movement of 1c won't matter. That was the whole point of my last comment. You're not going to run your system on a 1c cutting edge all the time, and for people to whom 1c really would make a difference for cutting edge bragging rights, well they're not going to be running an AIO water cooler anyway. Heck, if 1 c is so important, then everyone would be using metal TIMs.
> 
> The bottom line is, for me AS5 works great. After a week of use it gives me as good a performance of most any other TIM, with the exception of metal TIMs, it's available anywhere, and it's reliable. According to that last link posted to a Tom's article, without curing time the AS5 beat out the Corsair TIM by a fraction of a degree on the AIO water coolers. I see nothing wrong with a TIM in that league. I like the Corsair (Dow Corning) TIM too. If I was at a computer store looking for TIM, and they had the Dow Corning there, I would have no problem purchasing it either. All the TIMs we have been discussing are good TIMs, including the AS5.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> It's not that 1C matters, but 1C per component can add up, plus, that 1C on the low end in temps could be 2 or 3C on the higher end. Combine that with other components "1C" difference and you can be looking at a 10C difference. Other than the liquid metal based TIMs, they are all close in price so why not go for the slightly better performer?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 1c isn't enough for me to go out of my way to look for, or order something else. Because, even though all those things you are referring to could add up to 10c, we're talking about 1c and it would only make that 10c go to 9c.
> 
> You're right though. Go for whatever is the best available TIM when you're purchasing. I usually get mine from a local store when I'm purchasing other parts, and they carry AS5 and some other TIMs. I like AS5 best out of what they carry. If 1 c was important enough to go out of my way to get some other TIM, then I would.
Click to expand...

No disagreement here. I went from H50 to custom water, and there were reasons for that. One of which was my OC's weren't stable on AiO and they are on custom when I run an OC over 4Ghz.









Sadly, I have no local suppliers for most everything so I buy eTail.







Maybe when I get more of a foothold in the local community and have a broader customer base, I will start a local retail shop. For now that's a pipe dream an a million dollar one at that.









Still I go with the best bang for the buck and performance for my needs.









~Ceadder


----------



## Sharchaster

Have any recommendations for a good fans? want to replace the fans that come with my cooler soon.


----------



## VSG

Which AIO? I am currently testing out some radiator optimized 120mm fans (and some 140mm ones also) and if you can tell me the FPI I can suggest something. If you can measure the tube channel thickness, as well as the radiator core thickness and number of tube channels then all the better. All these play a role in airflow through a radiator (along with a few others that I can't really expect many people to calculate).

Also, what is good for you? Silence optimized? Airflow through the radiator optimized? Something in between? Budget/availability also play a role.


----------



## Sharchaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Which AIO? I am currently testing out some radiator optimized 120mm fans (and some 140mm ones also) and if you can tell me the FPI I can suggest something. If you can measure the tube channel thickness, as well as the radiator core thickness and number of tube channels then all the better. All these play a role in airflow through a radiator (along with a few others that I can't really expect many people to calculate).
> 
> Also, what is good for you? Silence optimized? Airflow through the radiator optimized? Something in between? Budget/availability also play a role.


Hey thanks for replying
my cooler is h100i, *my biggest concern is performance of course*....+ silent will be good....my setup is push the heat out from the case...(it's called push?)


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sharchaster*
> 
> Hey thanks for replying
> my cooler is h100i, *my biggest concern is performance of course*....+ silent will be good....my setup is push the heat out from the case...(it's called push?)


Ok, and luckily I have personal experience with the H100i. It has 35 micron thick, louvered (very acute angle though) aluminium fins, and a single row of 2.2mm thick aluminum tube channels in a core that is approximately 23mm thick. The stock fans are ok at performance, but louder than average at the same RPM as other fans in the same max RPM range. May I suggest the new EK Vardar F3 fans (PWM fans) if available? I have heard that the new SP120 LED fans are better at performance/noise but no personal experience. If you have enough space for push-pull then any average set of 4 fans at ~1000-1200 RPM will be better performing and also quieter.

Push or pull is just with respect to the position of the fan relative to the case and radiator, not the direction of airflow. You can have fans exhausting air in push or pull or push-pull.


----------



## Sharchaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ok, and luckily I have personal experience with the H100i. It has 35 micron thick, louvered (very acute angle though) aluminium fins, and a single row of 2.2mm thick aluminum tube channels in a core that is approximately 23mm thick. The stock fans are ok at performance, but louder than average at the same RPM as other fans in the same max RPM range. May I suggest the new EK Vardar F3 fans (PWM fans) if available? I have heard that the new SP120 LED fans are better at performance/noise but no personal experience. If you have enough space for push-pull then any average set of 4 fans at ~1000-1200 RPM will be better performing and also quieter.
> 
> Push or pull is just with respect to the position of the fan relative to the case and radiator, not the direction of airflow. You can have fans exhausting air in push or pull or push-pull.


EK Vardar F3 Fans is not available on my country, sadly








wait, use 4 fans? is there a space to mount 4 fans on h100i radiator? I didn't even know about that.

the issue is when ran xtu benchmark, my temps is go above 80C....sometimes made my cpu crash due to heat issues. The ambient is around 25 - 28 C in night. so need a good fans for cool my cpu....


----------



## VSG

XTU uses a version of Prime95 so don't worry too much about temps there. If your CPU is crashing at daily activities then you may have too much or too less of a lot of things. This is for you to figure out in the appropriate CPU section here or elsewhere. 80 C with XTU using your 4790k at 4.8 GHz on an H100i isn't surprising one bit.

Of course you can do 4 fans on the cooler, two fans on either side of the rad mounted the same way. But it depends on your case and motherboard if you have enough space for it. You will also need more screws unless you use two screws per fan.


----------



## felix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sharchaster*
> 
> wait, use 4 fans? is there a space to mount 4 fans on h100i radiator? I didn't even know about that.


4 fans @ Push-Pull Configuration, meaning 2 from each face of the radiator, 2 pushing through & 2 pulling through it.


----------



## sugalumps

How do I remove the standoff screws on the h100i?!

The 4 LGA 1155/1156 standoff screws

I have taken the h100i cpu block off but cannot remove the standoff screws which means I am stuck with the bracket on my motherboard, the one tool I dont have and think I need is a pair of pliers.

I need this h100i off now!


----------



## VSG

Make sure the hexagon shaped bolts/mounts in the backplate are properly oriented. Take a look at my Swiftech H220-X review in my sig below (you will be surprised how similar it is in that aspect) and hopefuly the pics help out.

Swiftech BP on left, Corsair H100i one on the right:


----------



## Sharchaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> XTU uses a version of Prime95 so don't worry too much about temps there. If your CPU is crashing at daily activities then you may have too much or too less of a lot of things. This is for you to figure out in the appropriate CPU section here or elsewhere. 80 C with XTU using your 4790k at 4.8 GHz on an H100i isn't surprising one bit.
> 
> Of course you can do 4 fans on the cooler, two fans on either side of the rad mounted the same way. But it depends on your case and motherboard if you have enough space for it. You will also need more screws unless you use two screws per fan.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felix*
> 
> 4 fans @ Push-Pull Configuration, meaning 2 from each face of the radiator, 2 pushing through & 2 pulling through it.


Ah figured it now....thanks for you both for help me....so which is better corsair AF120 or SP120 High (PWM) Performance?


----------



## VSG

SP120s, but they won't be much different than what you already have as far as performance/noise goes.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No disagreement here. I went from H50 to custom water, and there were reasons for that. One of which was my OC's weren't stable on AiO and they are on custom when I run an OC over 4Ghz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly, I have no local suppliers for most everything so I buy eTail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe when I get more of a foothold in the local community and have a broader customer base, I will start a local retail shop. For now that's a pipe dream an a million dollar one at that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still I go with the best bang for the buck and performance for my needs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have found that with my H100, I can clock my cpu so high the cooler isn't effective enough anymore. I have never gotten to the maximum overclock on it because it just gets too hot. Still, a 1GHz overclock is good enough for me.


----------



## Ceadderman

h100's weren't yet available when I started procuring my Loop. Which I started by buying my blocks(CPU/MB) and by the time I connected up the h80 was being introduced. H50 was a great cooler but I could not keep a stable 24/7 OC of 4Ghz on my lapped 955. Even after lapping the cooling plate and setting up the h50 in P/P with the stock fan converted into a shroud.

I like these AIO coolers alot, they just weren't feasible ATT that I needed better cooling and my MB required the block to sustain livable temps on its NB. It was averaging near 60c in the spring @ Idle. Bad juju.









~Ceadder


----------



## NorKris

i dont think the H100 is too weak to handle great overclocks.. just get some noctua thermal compound and maybe come corsair SP fans


----------



## sugalumps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Make sure the hexagon shaped bolts/mounts in the backplate are properly oriented. Take a look at my Swiftech H220-X review in my sig below (you will be surprised how similar it is in that aspect) and hopefuly the pics help out.
> 
> Swiftech BP on left, Corsair H100i one on the right:


New case came so moved everything and tried again, still could not get the offsets off thank you anyway.

Going to just grab a pair of pliers tomorrow then I can put the new cooler in.


----------



## generalkayoss

So, i've asked this question on a few other forums and haven't had any luck. Maybe you guys know of a way?

I have an H60 cooling my CPU. I'd like to upgrade to an H105. But i'd still like to utilize the H60.... on my GTX 970 GPU. The NZXT bracket isn't compatible with the H60, and Corsair hasn't come out with a bracket for the new cards yet.... so is it even possible? If so, how?


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Zip ties?


----------



## Ceadderman

I would. Make a bracket if you can't get a compatible NZXT bracket.









~Ceadder


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *generalkayoss*
> 
> So, i've asked this question on a few other forums and haven't had any luck. Maybe you guys know of a way?
> 
> I have an H60 cooling my CPU. I'd like to upgrade to an H105. But i'd still like to utilize the H60.... on my GTX 970 GPU. The NZXT bracket isn't compatible with the H60, and Corsair hasn't come out with a bracket for the new cards yet.... so is it even possible? If so, how?


You could always make a custom made bracket so you can still use your H60, you could use this blog as guide, http://www.corsair.com/en-us/blog/2011/april/using-a-hydro-series-h70-on-a-nvidia-geforce-gtx480

But if I were you, I would just wait for the HG10 that is compatible with 970/980. They are in the works now and should be available soon.


----------



## kolo7127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> You could always make a custom made bracket so you can still use your H60, you could use this blog as guide, http://www.corsair.com/en-us/blog/2011/april/using-a-hydro-series-h70-on-a-nvidia-geforce-gtx480
> 
> But if I were you, I would just wait for the HG10 that is compatible with 970/980. They are in the works now and should be available soon.


Any idea if that will work with evga's acx 2.0 cards? Also assuming if it does it wouldn't come with the fan. Will you guys be offering fans to purchase or models with fans at any point?


----------



## generalkayoss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> You could always make a custom made bracket so you can still use your H60, you could use this blog as guide, http://www.corsair.com/en-us/blog/2011/april/using-a-hydro-series-h70-on-a-nvidia-geforce-gtx480
> 
> But if I were you, I would just wait for the HG10 that is compatible with 970/980. They are in the works now and should be available soon.


That sounds great, I wasn't planning on upgrading for a few months anyway. How long until they hit the market, if you can speculate?

Edit - I just realized the HG brackets only adapt to reference style cards, is there a work-around as far as the blower fan goes and cooling the VRM.... installing a separate fan? I have the Gigabyte Windforce 3 edition.


----------



## eBombzor

Question to Corsair Link users: How do I disable the excessive hardware monitoring on Link? It's literally monitoring everything and I am paranoid that it'll bog down my pc.

If it's not possible, does anyone know what speeds the fans on the H80i would run at without Corsair Link?

Thanks.


----------



## deathroll

I hear some rattling and whining sounds from my H110. I generally happens when my system has longer uptimes. Does it get worse over time? Should I return it?


----------



## rotorwash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Question to Corsair Link users: How do I disable the excessive hardware monitoring on Link? It's literally monitoring everything and I am paranoid that it'll bog down my pc.
> 
> If it's not possible, does anyone know what speeds the fans on the H80i would run at without Corsair Link?
> 
> Thanks.


I found that CorsairLink on average uses at max 1.9% CPU on my system and that's with the UI running. It usually uses less than 1% CPU, negligible. To answer your first question, no I do not know how to limit its monitoring. For your second, why not plug the H80i fan into a MB header and check it? No answers but a suggestion and observation.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kolo7127*
> 
> Any idea if that will work with evga's acx 2.0 cards? Also assuming if it does it wouldn't come with the fan. Will you guys be offering fans to purchase or models with fans at any point?


I don't have the details yet in terms of compatibility, but we'll find out more info about it in the coming months so stay tuned








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *generalkayoss*
> 
> That sounds great, I wasn't planning on upgrading for a few months anyway. How long until they hit the market, if you can speculate?
> 
> Edit - I just realized the HG brackets only adapt to reference style cards, is there a work-around as far as the blower fan goes and cooling the VRM.... installing a separate fan? I have the Gigabyte Windforce 3 edition.


Time frame is not even available at this point, but its definitely happening.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathroll*
> 
> I hear some rattling and whining sounds from my H110. I generally happens when my system has longer uptimes. Does it get worse over time? Should I return it?


Do you know if the noise is coming from the pump or the fans? Try to isolate the source, maybe unplug the fans and see if the noise will persist. Also, Does it get louder the more load you put in your system?


----------



## VSG

EVGA uses the reference PCB and reference components for their standard ACX or SC/SSC cards. It's with the FTW, Classified, Classified KPE etc that you need to be careful about.

Also,



That's a H100i whose review is 99% ready, but I do believe a H110i is on the way too! I know it's late but the HG10 A1 is also almost done with testing- and more


----------



## deathroll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Do you know if the noise is coming from the pump or the fans? Try to isolate the source, maybe unplug the fans and see if the noise will persist. Also, Does it get louder the more load you put in your system?


The noise comes from the pump. I have eliminated fans. I use the pump plugging CPU_FAN header and set controller disabled on BIOS. It runs the pump maximum RPM. The noise comes either on load and idle.


----------



## Krazee

How is everyone's wire management with either the H80i or H100i? In my opinion the sata power cable is short. Anyone sleeve the cables?


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathroll*
> 
> The noise comes from the pump. I have eliminated fans. I use the pump plugging CPU_FAN header and set controller disabled on BIOS. It runs the pump maximum RPM. The noise comes either on load and idle.


If the pump noise is significantly louder than any of your case fans, OR basically louder than any of your components - then it's probably best to submit an RMA request and have it replaced.

Any change in CPU temp since that noise started?


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krazee*
> 
> How is everyone's wire management with either the H80i or H100i? In my opinion the sata power cable is short. Anyone sleeve the cables?


Not much of a concern since we started selling both H80i and H100i. I could only see this issue when probably doing a full tower build. but then again, most PSU SATA cables are natively long, I've personally never seen a complaint regarding the length of the power SATA cable being short.


----------



## Ceadderman

Corsair needs to get with their manufacturer on the SATA power lead and have them lengthen it. It's one thing when it's 3pin power. That is one thing cuz it plugs in on the CPU header. But there is NO power header for SATA on conventional/Enthusiast Mainboards.









~Ceadder


----------



## philhalo66

is it just my mounting kit or is something wrong with the H100i? I had to put a piece of cardboard between the back of the motherboard and the bracket otherwise it doesn't make good contact and my CPU way overheats.


----------



## kolo7127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> is it just my mounting kit or is something wrong with the H100i? I had to put a piece of cardboard between the back of the motherboard and the bracket otherwise it doesn't make good contact and my CPU way overheats.


If it mounts like the h75 or h105 you may have used the wrong sized standoffs between the backing plate and the hold down bracket. those 2 coolers come with different sized stand offs you can use depending on your CPU.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kolo7127*
> 
> If it mounts like the h75 or h105 you may have used the wrong sized standoffs between the backing plate and the hold down bracket. those 2 coolers come with different sized stand offs you can use depending on your CPU.


i definitely used the right standoffs


----------



## Krazee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> is it just my mounting kit or is something wrong with the H100i? I had to put a piece of cardboard between the back of the motherboard and the bracket otherwise it doesn't make good contact and my CPU way overheats.


Some boards are too thin. My asus had the same issue. I had to add two washer in order to make the install work


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krazee*
> 
> Some boards are too thin. My asus had the same issue. I had to add two washer in order to make the install work


I Googled it and it seems to be a problem with the H100i mounting hardware people are saying to use plastic washers i don't think its my motherboard being too thin its alot thicker than my sabertooth 990FX was.


----------



## Ceadderman

Can I sue plastic washers? Anyone know of a good lawyer I can call?


















~Ceadder


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Spoiler: You'll need a plastic lawyer



:


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Can I sue plastic washers? Anyone know of a good lawyer I can call?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


lol i do that typo all the time i have no idea why


----------



## NIK1

Anyone know when the Corsair H110i GT 280mm Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler will be available to buy.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> is it just my mounting kit or is something wrong with the H100i? I had to put a piece of cardboard between the back of the motherboard and the bracket otherwise it doesn't make good contact and my CPU way overheats.


We are pretty familiar with this issue. And yes, some boards are thinner than others, and if that's the case, you may have to use washers to compensate for the gap between the board and the backplate. You don't want any play in your bracket when it is installed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Anyone know when the Corsair H110i GT 280mm Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler will be available to buy.


You should start seeing them in stores by mid to last Feb.


----------



## VSG

I guess I was lucky then, it was fine with all of my 3 motherboards- x99, z87 and z97. Good point though, I will bring it up in the review.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

What sort of fans should I use on a H75i inside an ITX for farily quiet operation?


----------



## Ceadderman

EK Vardar or Gentle Typoons. EK Vardars are cheaper ($18) so I would go with those.

~Ceadder


----------



## kolo7127

Anyone have or know of an image of a 380t for corsair link software?


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> EK Vardar or Gentle Typoons. EK Vardars are cheaper ($18) so I would go with those.
> 
> ~Ceadder


are the vardars the accepted successor to the GTs? I'd love to get something like them....


----------



## eperelez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Anyone know when the Corsair H110i GT 280mm Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler will be available to buy.


On Newegg right now.








http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181088&cm_re=corsair_h110i-_-35-181-088-_-Product


----------



## bwsteg

waiting for the h100i gtx..Hopefully they're out soon...


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kolo7127*
> 
> Anyone have or know of an image of a 380t for corsair link software?


We will be adding that image in the next Corsair Link version. Soon


----------



## Corsair Joseph

If you are considering the H75 cooler as your next cooler, here is a pretty good review that pointed out a couple of good reasons why it is a good AIO cooler without spending a good amount of $

http://thermalbench.com/2015/02/03/corsair-hydro-series-h75-aio-cpu-cooler/


----------



## mypg036

If i change corsair fans on my H100i to SP120 LED fans, any improvement on cooling and performance?


----------



## generalkayoss

H110 or bust!


----------



## MerkageTurk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Idle 9c? Unless you were in a room that was as chilly cold as 9c, that seems a little impossible. A water cooler can never cool below ambient temperature. If it's operating at room temperature (approx 21 or 22c), then the CPU can never go below that. 30c at maximum load seems low as well. Of course, you're using am AMD cpu, so there's no telling if the temperature sensor is accurate.


Mate I am using an Intel i7 5820k with rampage v, real temp was showing inaccurate, it is idle around 18-47c Max

Asus AI suite shows 18-47c


----------



## NorKris

pump "grinding" noice :/ with 3 corsair AIO coolers it was a hunt for the grinding noice ;P

i found that my H60 is making the noice, any advice on how to make the "grinding" noice stop? can i put a fan speed reduction-thingy on it? (its a 3pin fan cable)


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> pump "grinding" noice :/ with 3 corsair AIO coolers it was a hunt for the grinding noice ;P
> 
> i found that my H60 is making the noice, any advice on how to make the "grinding" noice stop? can i put a fan speed reduction-thingy on it? (its a 3pin fan cable)


If you can actually hear an AIO pump over the fans then either the AIO isn't filled with coolant completely, or not bled completely, or has an issue with the impeller/motor itself. The only thing I can recommend here is to talk to Corsair support.

If you are just looking to lower pump noise and everything else seems ok, then you can potentially get away with undervolting it to 9-10 V.


----------



## NorKris

yes it can be heard loud and clear :O but its gives great temps, same temps as my h80i (almost)


----------



## VSG

Can you possibly record a video with nothing but the pump on? This means having to disconnect the fans for a few seconds, mind you.


----------



## tateep

Just ordered an H110i GT for tomorrow delivery. Looking forward to joining the club. Anyone have one yet? How is it performing for you?


----------



## NorKris

i will do that, almost all fans are off
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehqWvpAO3O4&feature=youtu.be&ab_channel=-Norkris-

one thing tho, my pump is higher up than my rad..


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> i will do that, almost all fans are off
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehqWvpAO3O4&feature=youtu.be&ab_channel=-Norkris-
> 
> one thing tho, my pump is higher up than my rad..


just for kicks see what happens when your raise the rad above the pump if that doesn't help i would give corsair a ring or try their support website.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tateep*
> 
> Just ordered an H110i GT for tomorrow delivery. Looking forward to joining the club. Anyone have one yet? How is it performing for you?


Yeah same, I have one on the way tomorrow as well. I will post my thoughts in here before I write up the full review.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> i will do that, almost all fans are off
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehqWvpAO3O4&feature=youtu.be&ab_channel=-Norkris-
> 
> one thing tho, my pump is higher up than my rad..


Shouldn't matter unless the loop isn't bled completely in which case air is just going to go around the pump all the time causing the sound you are hearing. If possible remove the AIO and run it outside the case with the rad above the pump. If the noise profile is different than before, then that will help eliminate some possibilities.


----------



## NorKris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> just for kicks see what happens when your raise the rad above the pump if that doesn't help i would give corsair a ring or try their support website.


i cant, unless i turn the pc case upside down.
getting the h60 out means i have to take out the H105, and then clip all the zipties and then take out the graphicscard and all the cables.. and then get the H60 out :/

u think its air travling around making the sound, geggeg? might be


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> i cant, unless i turn the pc case upside down


you can't unscrew it and hold it above the pump?


----------



## NorKris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> you can't unscrew it and hold it above the pump?


No if u look at my pc pictures u can see that i have it mounted in the front of the case with zipties and its cooling one of my gtx 680


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> No if u look at my pc pictures u can see that i have it mounted in the front of the case with zipties and its cooling one of my gtx 680


Hmm i don't know what to tell ya then man i'd wager corsair will tell you to do the same thing. If i were you i'd give corsair support a ring they are super easy to deal with they should have you fixed up in no time.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> i cant, unless i turn the pc case upside down.
> getting the h60 out means i have to take out the H105, and then clip all the zipties and then take out the graphicscard and all the cables.. and then get the H60 out :/
> 
> u think its air travling around making the sound, geggeg? might be


Well I think air may be at the top of the loop here which in your case is the pump/block unit.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> i will do that, almost all fans are off
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehqWvpAO3O4&feature=youtu.be&ab_channel=-Norkris-
> 
> one thing tho, my pump is higher up than my rad..


It does sound mechanical noise to me. Are you certain that it is coming from the pump and not the fans? Try to unplug the fans and see if the noise stays. Also, try tapping the pump gently, its possible that its air trapped in the loop.


----------



## NorKris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> It does sound mechanical noise to me. Are you certain that it is coming from the pump and not the fans? Try to unplug the fans and see if the noise stays. Also, try tapping the pump gently, its possible that its air trapped in the loop.


faster than unplugging 20 fans (yes i have 20 fans xD) i unplugged the H60 and wooop the sound was gone ..


----------



## NorKris

i did turn my pc upside down, disconecting my H105 and H80 but i left the pc running. and it helped







but now my H105 is making noice (not that much tho) : /
CPU's and GPU's do not need AIO coolers to be running just to boot to the desktop









temps are still fine ( prime 95 and furmark)
CPU 46c and GPUs 48c


----------



## Mattousai

Finally received my H105 in today. I'm prepping for a new mobo/CPU/RAM. In the meantime, I slapped it on my 2500k as I'll be using the R5 for the new components anyways.

First thing I noticed is that the pump is whisper quiet








I have the fans that came with it atm. Not too thrilled with how loud they get, though they are at least quiet in idle. (they make a humming sound as they ramp up. They don't sound defective, just loud.) Replacing those asap.

At idle, my temps are around 22c. With my 212 Evo they were around 26-28c. Bigger drop then I anticipated. At full load (4.5Ghz at 1.28v) I'm hitting 54-57c depending the core. This is with the fans set to level 3 on my board (800RPM I believe) My Evo had the fans at Level 7 to achieve around the same temps.

Overall I'm thrilled with the H105. I wanted to be rid of the huge chunk of metal on my mobo, and I wanted to lower the noise levels. Now I'm ready for the 4790k! Just need to replace those stock fans...


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> i did turn my pc upside down, disconecting my H105 and H80 but i left the pc running. and it helped
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but now my H105 is making noice (not that much tho) : /
> CPU's and GPU's do not need AIO coolers to be running just to boot to the desktop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> temps are still fine ( prime 95 and furmark)
> CPU 46c and GPUs 48c


Well that video shows how loud that pump noise is. I would suggest that you get it replaced via RMA. Is it the 1st gen H60 or the 2nd? If its still under warranty, create a ticket *here* and submit a request for replacement.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattousai*
> 
> Finally received my H105 in today. I'm prepping for a new mobo/CPU/RAM. In the meantime, I slapped it on my 2500k as I'll be using the R5 for the new components anyways.
> 
> First thing I noticed is that the pump is whisper quiet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall I'm thrilled with the H105. I wanted to be rid of the huge chunk of metal on my mobo, and I wanted to lower the noise levels. Now I'm ready for the 4790k! Just need to replace those stock fans...


Happy to hear that there is a huge improvement in your CPU temp from your previous cooler.. and it worked out for the better


----------



## NorKris

its a 1st gen H60, and a 2nd gen wont fit x)
but the noice is better now and the cooling performance is still there 100% so i wont go with RMA
but TY for the help


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> its a 1st gen H60, and a 2nd gen wont fit x)
> but the noice is better now and the cooling performance is still there 100% so i wont go with RMA
> but TY for the help


Even better, glad to hear that


----------



## MikeSp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattousai*
> 
> Finally received my H105 in today. I'm prepping for a new mobo/CPU/RAM. In the meantime, I slapped it on my 2500k as I'll be using the R5 for the new components anyways.
> 
> First thing I noticed is that the pump is whisper quiet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the fans that came with it atm. Not too thrilled with how loud they get, though they are at least quiet in idle. (they make a humming sound as they ramp up. They don't sound defective, just loud.) Replacing those asap.
> 
> At idle, my temps are around 22c. With my 212 Evo they were around 26-28c. Bigger drop then I anticipated. At full load (4.5Ghz at 1.28v) I'm hitting 54-57c depending the core. This is with the fans set to level 3 on my board (800RPM I believe) My Evo had the fans at Level 7 to achieve around the same temps.
> 
> Overall I'm thrilled with the H105. I wanted to be rid of the huge chunk of metal on my mobo, and I wanted to lower the noise levels. Now I'm ready for the 4790k! Just need to replace those stock fans...


I just finished a new build using the H105 -- found the pump to also be whisper quiet -- replaced the stock fans with Corsair SP120's -- two of them on the bottom of the rad and two SP120's on the inside of the case, mounted to the side of the drive cages just for some added circulation from the front fans. Then 5 Phanteks F140SP's -- plenty of cooling so fans are kept running at half speed (pretty quiet) and the CPU temp stays around 40C with a slight OC to 4.2 GHz.
My first build using water cooling -- so far am VERY pleased.


----------



## Mattousai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeSp*
> 
> I just finished a new build using the H105 -- found the pump to also be whisper quiet -- replaced the stock fans with Corsair SP120's -- two of them on the bottom of the rad and two SP120's on the inside of the case, mounted to the side of the drive cages just for some added circulation from the front fans. Then 5 Phanteks F140SP's -- plenty of cooling so fans are kept running at half speed (pretty quiet) and the CPU temp stays around 40C with a slight OC to 4.2 GHz.
> My first build using water cooling -- so far am VERY pleased.


Yeah, it's first foray into the world of water cooling as well.

I really expected to hear some noise. I put my ear up to the pump and then started to get worried. Didn't need to though!

I currently have 3 Phanteks PH-140HPs in the case. I had a few Gelid silent 12s sitting around, so I threw those on the rad in pull atm. Lowered all my fan speeds a bit (Noise is much better then the stock fans!), idling in the mid to high 20s. Load is still in the upper 50's.









Time to due some research and see if I can find better "silent" fans with good static pressure. If not, I'll just keep the gelids on.


----------



## generalkayoss

I had all kinds of gurgling noises after installing my H110 last week, all the air worked its way out of the pump within 15 minutes or so though. No issues since. Pump is very quite... Stock fans... Not so much


----------



## tateep

She has arrived.



My first foray into the watercooling world as well.

Let the fun begin.


----------



## VSG

Very cool, let us know how it works.


----------



## deathroll

Trying to install my H110 as vertically to my case but it causes to weird rattling sounds from the pump. Any ideas?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathroll*
> 
> Trying to install my H110 as vertically to my case but it causes to weird rattling sounds from the pump. Any ideas?


Can you still hear the noise when the fans are not spinning?


----------



## mercs213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathroll*
> 
> Trying to install my H110 as vertically to my case but it causes to weird rattling sounds from the pump. Any ideas?


My H100i did the same. Was the loudest part in my PC. Pump was making some rattling noise. Sold it and just got a noctua CPU cooler.


----------



## tateep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Very cool, let us know how it works.


I fail. It's much longer than I thought. 322mm. Won't fit in the top of my R5 with the exhaust fan slid down. Go figure.


----------



## Azefore

Long time hydro owner but figured I'd start posting here instead of the announcement thread









Got my H110i in today to tide me over till a Skylake and GPU upgrade later this year. Stepped down from my H220 expanded loop, will probably paint my radiators white and get everything prepped for socket 1151.

First bit of testing can be read at this post here, although it's just a very quick first impression really.


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> First bit of testing can be read at this post here, although it's just a very quick first impression really.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It looks good , I guess .. I really like how the tubing looks,though I still find the pump a little uglier than the round one..
But,personally,I like the logo input in the rad..
Cool rig too


----------



## curly haired boy

lighting on the pump looks sick


----------



## generalkayoss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tateep*
> 
> I fail. It's much longer than I thought. 322mm. Won't fit in the top of my R5 with the exhaust fan slid down. Go figure.


Put it on top....


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> It looks good , I guess .. I really like how the tubing looks,though I still find the pump a little uglier than the round one..
> But,personally,I like the logo input in the rad..
> Cool rig too


Tubing has the softest sleeving I've felt stock computer part wise. Pretty much identical to a bungee cord's feel but better. I find the circle shaped pumps from corsair look dated to me personally (my H50 is a reminder) but I definitely prefer it over the H100i faceplate which seems kind of plain and too glossy comparative to regular pc components.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*
> 
> lighting on the pump looks sick


The RGB LEDs are pretty good, even on white there's little to no indication it's a multi diode because it's fairly white.


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Tubing has the softest sleeving I've felt stock computer part wise. Pretty much identical to a bungee cord's feel but better.
> I find the circle shaped pumps from corsair look dated to me personally (my H50 is a reminder) but I definitely prefer it over the H100i faceplate which seems kind of plain and too glossy comparative to regular pc components.
> The RGB LEDs are pretty good, even on white there's little to no indication it's a multi diode because it's fairly white.


That's good to know..I prefer Corsair's tubing more than other AIOs , at least in the looks department..

I meant the H105 / H75 pumps with the interchangeable accent rings and LED(at least the 105 has them..)

But it still looks nice when lit,and from what you posted it performs good too..


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> That's good to know..I prefer Corsair's tubing more than other AIOs , at least in the looks department..
> 
> I meant the H105 / H75 pumps with the interchangeable accent rings and LED(at least the 105 has them..)
> 
> But it still looks nice when lit,and from what you posted it performs good too..


Aye, I figured it was the 105 you were referring to. Just got my Phanteks in earlier, going to give those and see how they do in the same testing.


----------



## Azefore

Just did the same 15 minutes of Prime95 blended for heavy load testing with the Phanteks 140mm XPs.

Same ambient of 68F/20C. Temp was @ 61c. A 4c increase from stock fans but, the max the fans got up to was 1100rpm. At that speed they were around the idle sound of the stock fans. A small but definite increase in sound from idle ~675rpm but compared to the stock fans that sent vibrations into my desk and sounded like a wind tunnel I'll gladly accept 61 over 57.


----------



## tateep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathroll*
> 
> Trying to install my H110 as vertically to my case but it causes to weird rattling sounds from the pump. Any ideas?


I just installed my H110i GT vertically in the front. Pump makes rattling noises at 2350rpm but at 3000rpm no rattle. Only two speeds I can change it to in CL.


----------



## deathroll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tateep*
> 
> I just installed my H110i GT vertically in the front. Pump makes rattling noises at 2350rpm but at 3000rpm no rattle. Only two speeds I can change it to in CL.


I using the cooling system plugging 3-pin cable of the pump on CPU_FAN header on mobo. I disable the decicaded controller from UEFI. It makes the pump spin at max RPM. But I realise my pump starts making rattling noises while PC has long uptimes (after 5-6 hours). It doesn't matter either vertically and horizontally mounted. I sent the cooler to warranty asap.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Can you still hear the noise when the fans are not spinning?


Yup.


----------



## tateep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathroll*
> 
> I using the cooling system plugging 3-pin cable of the pump on CPU_FAN header on mobo. I disable the decicaded controller from UEFI. It makes the pump spin at max RPM. But I realise my pump starts making rattling noises while PC has long uptimes (after 5-6 hours). It doesn't matter either vertically and horizontally mounted. I sent the cooler to warranty asap.
> Yup.


Hope the new one works out. Mine isn't so much a rattle but more of a ticking like a small ball tumbling around in a cage. At max speed the ticking goes away. This replaced a NH-U14S and my temps are much lower so it seems to be cooling well.


----------



## Mattousai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathroll*
> 
> I using the cooling system plugging 3-pin cable of the pump on CPU_FAN header on mobo. I disable the decicaded controller from UEFI. It makes the pump spin at max RPM. But I realise my pump starts making rattling noises while PC has long uptimes (after 5-6 hours). It doesn't matter either vertically and horizontally mounted. I sent the cooler to warranty asap.
> Yup.


Good call, I would warranty that too. My H105 is mounted vertically in the front of my R5, and it doesn't make a sound. I have it connected straight to the PSU so it runs at full speed.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

If you haven't seen it yet, our very own Jeff Checchi shows you how easy it is to step up to quiet and efficient liquid CPU cooling with the Hydro Series H80i GT.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

So H80i GT is Asetek design, while the original H80 and the regular H80i were CoolIt... I realise Corsair uses both OEMs but I sure wish Corsair would keep these things more consistent, like keeping the same number the same OEM.

I see the tubes are now sleeved but traditionally speaking Asetek uses smaller tubing than the newer CoolIt designs; so are the "new" tubes just the standard Asetek ones with a sleeve that makes them look thicker (like the ones on the previous H80i)?

I suppose it all comes down to performance, if it's doing as good/better than the previous H80i I guess that's all that matters. Nice that either Corsair or Asetek has improved the block in terms of ease-of-mounting--looks like it just goes on with out having to line up the teeth and stuff as with most Asetek mounts (though those look like they are still there on the block).


----------



## kolo7127

Seriously though, whats up with Corsair's Color inconsistency. Offer LED fans in red, white, blue, purple, and green. (IMO every LED product should be RGB and changeable.) They Offer SP fans with rings in red, white, and blue. They Offer coolers with inserts in red, blue and silver. Memory in certain lines in red, blue, gold and silver. That's great if I'm theme-ing in red or blue. Seems like the left hand not talking to the right hand. I'm a corsair fanboy but their inconsistency in regards to colors amongst other things drives me insane. Maybe I'm just OCD Okay sorry rant over. I just want White options for everything.


----------



## generalkayoss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kolo7127*
> 
> Seriously though, whats up with Corsair's Color inconsistency. Offer LED fans in red, white, blue, purple, and green. (IMO every LED product should be RGB and changeable.) They Offer SP fans with rings in red, white, and blue. They Offer coolers with inserts in red, blue and silver. Memory in certain lines in red, blue, gold and silver. That's great if I'm theme-ing in red or blue. Seems like the left hand not talking to the right hand. I'm a corsair fanboy but their inconsistency in regards to colors amongst other things drives me insane. Maybe I'm just OCD Okay sorry rant over. I just want White options for everything.


I've been wondering about this too. They also offer the sp140's with LEDs but not the sp120s.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *generalkayoss*
> 
> I've been wondering about this too. They also offer the sp140's with LEDs but not the sp120s.


? They certainly do have SP120 LED:
http://www.corsair.com/en-ca/cooling/fans?flowtype=Static%20Pressure|&fansize=120mm%20x%2025mm|

I've bought a pair of blue ones on a previous occasion (for someone else), so I know they definitely have them in blue.


----------



## generalkayoss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> ? They certainly do have SP120 LED:
> http://www.corsair.com/en-ca/cooling/fans?flowtype=Static%20Pressure|&fansize=120mm%20x%2025mm|
> 
> I've bought a pair of blue ones on a previous occasion (for someone else), so I know they definitely have them in blue.


Oh really? I must have missed them as I was browsing through the list then. I thought it was odd! lol


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tateep*
> 
> I just installed my H110i GT vertically in the front. Pump makes rattling noises at 2350rpm but at 3000rpm no rattle. Only two speeds I can change it to in CL.


This is interesting. Is the noise pretty consistent at 2350rpm? and is it louder than any of your case fans?

I see that its doing much better than your previous cooler. That's good to hear.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

And for those are interested to see some H110i GT test results, here is a very comprehensive review that you guys may find compelling. http://thermalbench.com/2015/02/10/corsair-hydro-series-h110i-gt-aio-cpu-cooler/


----------



## tateep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> This is interesting. Is the noise pretty consistent at 2350rpm? and is it louder than any of your case fans?
> 
> I see that its doing much better than your previous cooler. That's good to hear.


The pump sound was consistent in quiet mode and could be heard over the case fans but I have a Define R5 with four fans spinning at 500 rpm so you hear everything over them.

I've been in contact with Andrew through your support system and he says that it was normal pump sounds, however another issue came up where the pump was stuck on 3,000 rpm and one of the fans was stuck at 530 rpm and neither would respond to Corsair Link. The 2nd fan was functioning fine and was responding to CL. He suggested I remove all fan controls in the Bios and delete Corsair Link and all remnants of it in the Roaming folder but unfortunately it didn't fix the issue. Then, late last night the pump quit. Fans were running but no pump. CL showed zero. I quickly Rebooted the system and no joy. Today I shipped it back to Amazon. Guess I got a bad one.


----------



## NorKris

I love asking crazy-no1-has-ever-try'd-it-before questions
















Would it be possible to connect a H60 and a H105 to the Fan conectors off the H80i, use the corsairs links Fan profiles to make the GPU-pumps only START (be on) if the temps rise over 40c (voltage from 0-100, nothing in the middle) ?
and make the H105 only start if the CPU temps are above 40c?


----------



## VSG

Seeing as how the fan headers and Corsair Link are PWM and those pumps are voltage controlled, I don't think it will work except at a constant 12V.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

^That and the fact that the GPU will likely get to 40C in no time at all without the pump running anyway. Without the pump, it's like it's running without a heatsink on the thing at all--I really would not recommend running any AIO/CLC cooler with the pump off (or probably any loop for that matter)--the temp will go up _very_ rapidly when any load is put on the processor (CPU or GPU) at all.


----------



## NorKris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> ^That and the fact that the GPU will likely get to 40C in no time at all without the pump running anyway. Without the pump, it's like it's running without a heatsink on the thing at all--I really would not recommend running any AIO/CLC cooler with the pump off (or probably any loop for that matter)--the temp will go up _very_ rapidly when any load is put on the processor (CPU or GPU) at all.


ur wrong... temps with no AIO running is 31c (idle / browsing)


----------



## NorKris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Seeing as how the fan headers and Corsair Link are PWM and those pumps are voltage controlled, I don't think it will work except at a constant 12V.


i dont think i NEED 12v 10 or 11 will do i quess

but will the 2 pumps draw too much amps or somthing for the H80i to handle?


----------



## lonegreywolf20

I installed a i7 2600k CPU and a Corsair H50 closed system water cooler on Sunday and I am trying to figure out if these are good temps when OC it to 3.8ghz and 1.2v on the core. I changed out the TIM for the Xigmatek PTI-G4512 TIM. I do not have a heat sensing device to check ambient temps around the computer, but our apartment is generally kept at 73F and the computer is on a raised platform about nine inches off the floor.

According to Aida64 and my motherboard code display, the temps on the CPU is 65-66 Celsius while running Prime95 using the small FFTs tests . According, to Aida64 the CPU package is 53 Celsius, cores 1-4 are 49-53 Celsius. Idle temps are 43- 45 Celsius for CPU, 33 Celsius for CPU package, and for CPU 1-4 they are 31-35 Celsius.

My case is an Antec 900 case, with one front fan on the bottom blowing cool air over my two HDDs, and the other front fan one slot under the top to blow cool air into the case and towards the CPU. I have a side fan doing intake for the GPU, the Rad for the H50 is in a push/pull configuration exhausting out the back up top, and the big boy fan exhausting as well.

I would have thought that my CPU would be cooler than it currently is.

Here are two pictures of my computer:


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lonegreywolf20*
> 
> I installed a i7 2600k CPU and a Corsair H50 closed system water cooler on Sunday and I am trying to figure out if these are good temps when OC it to 3.8ghz and 1.2v on the core.
> 
> ...
> 
> According to Aida64 and my motherboard code display, the temps on the CPU is 65-66 Celsius while running Prime95 using the small FFTs tests . According, to Aida64 the CPU package is 53 Celsius, cores 1-4 are *49-53* Celsius. Idle temps are 43- 45 Celsius for CPU, 33 Celsius for CPU package, and for CPU 1-4 they are *31-35* Celsius.


Wouldn't worry too much about the mobo CPU temp, more important is the core temps (actually the cores don't report temps in reality they report distance to Tjmax). Try using RealTemp to see the Tjmax and the distance to, when loaded. Anyway if your cores are reading in the 30s at idle and below 60 loaded and OC'd, that's about exactly where you would be for a single 120mm thin (27mm) rad, like the H50. In other words, your temps are where they should be.


----------



## NorKris

H80i isnt showing up in corsair link at all : ( but running pumps off the H80 works.. but again pointless if i cant controll it

i guess it dosnt work with w8.1


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> ur wrong... temps with no AIO running is 31c (idle / browsing)


Thanks but yeah I can do that too, if my pump is unplugged it will idle in the mid 30s (compared to 27C with the pump running) but the problem is the _rate_ at which the temperature increases when loaded is very high, without the pump running. So, just putting a _little_ load on the GPU I will get 40C+instantly which is what it would otherwise be running at, at high gaming load, with the pump running. Relatively speaking 40C is high temp in this situation. Any higher load than that will spike it to 80C in a seconds or two. I get that you are thinking you'll turn the pump on when the temp rises above 35 or whatever but this is not really a good idea because the pump will then turn on and probably cool it within a minute or so below that and then switch off. Add a little more load and boom pump comes back on. Two things are going to happen there--excessive pump cycling (turning it on and off all the time) and GPU temps jumping between low and high--you're just going to be chasing the temperature with the pump, so to speak.

I mean do what you want, but personally I think this is just a bad idea. I don't understand why someone would ever want to turn off the pump in a cooling loop. It is, as I said, worse than turning off a fan on a heatsink because at least with a heatsink you have still have that working for you. With a waterblock, it provides very little functionality of a heatsink when there is no flow. Thermal conduction through the fluid is also far too slow to do anything for temperature. Pumps make very little noise (though sometimes there is some buzz or vibration) and should always be running full speed. Vary the noise level with the fans, not the pumps. If the pumps are really too loud for you, you might consider a different unit/pump, or sound insulation in the case walls or something.

But just my $0.02. I don't think Corsair, nor Asetek, nor CoolIt, (or any other OEM or producer of AIO coolers) will ever recommend turning off the pump while in system operation either though.


----------



## lonegreywolf20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> Wouldn't worry too much about the mobo CPU temp, more important is the core temps (actually the cores don't report temps in reality they report distance to Tjmax). Try using RealTemp to see the Tjmax and the distance to, when loaded. Anyway if your cores are reading in the 30s at idle and below 60 loaded and OC'd, that's about exactly where you would be for a single 120mm thin (27mm) rad, like the H50. In other words, your temps are where they should be.


Okay, cool.

I am running the Realtemp tests and the temps are sitting in the low 50s for core temps for the first test and then high 40's for the second test.


----------



## NorKris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> Thanks but yeah I can do that too, if my pump is unplugged it will idle in the mid 30s (compared to 27C with the pump running) but the problem is the _rate_ at which the temperature increases when loaded is very high, without the pump running. So, just putting a _little_ load on the GPU I will get 40C+instantly which is what it would otherwise be running at, at high gaming load, with the pump running. Relatively speaking 40C is high temp in this situation. Any higher load than that will spike it to 80C in a seconds or two. I get that you are thinking you'll turn the pump on when the temp rises above 35 or whatever but this is not really a good idea because the pump will then turn on and probably cool it within a minute or so below that and then switch off. Add a little more load and boom pump comes back on. Two things are going to happen there--excessive pump cycling (turning it on and off all the time) and GPU temps jumping between low and high--you're just going to be chasing the temperature with the pump, so to speak.
> 
> I mean do what you want, but personally I think this is just a bad idea. I don't understand why someone would ever want to turn off the pump in a cooling loop. It is, as I said, worse than turning off a fan on a heatsink because at least with a heatsink you have still have that working for you. With a waterblock, it provides very little functionality of a heatsink when there is no flow. Thermal conduction through the fluid is also far too slow to do anything for temperature. Pumps make very little noise (though sometimes there is some buzz or vibration) and should always be running full speed. Vary the noise level with the fans, not the pumps. If the pumps are really too loud for you, you might consider a different unit/pump, or sound insulation in the case walls or something.
> 
> But just my $0.02. I don't think Corsair, nor Asetek, nor CoolIt, (or any other OEM or producer of AIO coolers) will ever recommend turning off the pump while in system operation either though.


In my system i have 3 corsair pumps, and they are louder than my fans ;P
and why would i turn them off? well while browsing or something light-loaded, u dont need to cool ur processors, so why not use a program to turn them on only when u need the cooling?
30-45c is a OK idle temp if u have a pump + rad to cool it down once it reaches 47- 50c while gaming







but now i cant get the software to see my H80i..


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> In my system i have 3 corsair pumps, and they are louder than my fans ;P
> and why would i turn them off? well while browsing or something light-loaded, u dont need to cool ur processors, so why not use a program to turn them on only when u need the cooling?


You are correct that at idle little cooling is needed but as soon as there is any load, that changes. My reasoning behind keeping the pumps running is because temps can rise so rapidly with no fluid movement that you get into a situation where you chase the temp rise with the pump and likely end up cycling it on/off quite a lot. I highly doubt these pumps were meant to cycle on and off continuously like that; doing this may lead to premature pump failure. Also if you have pumps that aren't running at times you can never be alerted of a pump failure from RPM reporting. Because you expect the pump to go down to 0 RPM you can't set up an alert or automated shutdown based on the pump dropping to 0. Then, if your pump actually does fail you won't know until your temps are at dangerous levels (which will happen quite quickly in the event a pump does not power on).

Again it's totally up to you. If you want to turn pumps off you're certainly free to do so. I might be mistaken but I'm pretty sure no one from Corsair would recommend it though.


----------



## NorKris

ah well it didnt work







its not possible to control pump speed from H80i .. and the software is useless


----------



## cjc75

Question, I don't see the Corsair H105 and H110 listed on the front page...

I am debating on doing a full custom water loop in my new CM Trooper case... I've got an old Apogee XT cpu block, an MCP655 pump, and an XSPC RX120 Rad. But I'll still need to buy a decent Bay Res, and probably one extra Rad; and a few fittings and new tubing, etc... probably at least around another $150 - $200 in extra parts. Or I could save quite a bit, and could go with a decent Corsair kit; slap a couple Gentle Typhoon AP-15's on its Rad and be set.

But if I decide to go with a Corsair kit, then I much prefer the thicker 240 Rad like the H105 kit has; and I'm wondering how it compares with the more popular H100i?

How does it handle the overclocking?

I've got an i5-2500K overclocked at 4.6ghz almost 24/7, and its being cooled by an old H50 with a pair of Gentle Typhoon's on its Rad in push/pull; been running it since about 2011 and its been flawless. Now I've got a newer i5-4690K, and this new CM Trooper case, which will be replacing my older Phenon II rig, and I'm debating its cooling solution.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cjc75*
> 
> Question, I don't see the Corsair H105 and H110 listed on the front page...
> 
> But if I decide to go with a Corsair kit, then I much prefer the thicker 240 Rad like the H105 kit has; and I'm wondering how it compares with the more popular H100i?


You first line mentions the H110 but now you're talking about the H100i? In comparison to the H105, the H100i is definitely inferior in cooling performance but has Corsair Link. Now as you can see the poster above saying...Corsair Link is pretty bad. I share that opinion...it's so useless it's unreal actually, lol. I think if you have a PSU/other components with CL it's pretty neat but with just an H100i I've tried it and wow it's painful to [try] to use. It's impossible to figure out how anything works and it is really unintuitive. I mean the Asetek software is pretty bad too, but Corsair Link takes the cake for worst AIO/CLC software. It's very pointless and I doubt you will even want to use it.

If you can fit the H105 or H110, I'd definitely use one of those over the H100i. The H100i is an easier/more common fit though, and is why it's more popular I think. Don't get me wrong it's not a bad cooler (it's pretty good) but the other two are certainly better. From both personal experience and the reviews I've read, I'd say the H80i, H90, and H100i are in one class, the H105 and H110 are a class above, in terms of cooling performance.

A custom loop OTOH is going to be your best bet provided you do it right, but as you said that's typically double the money, not to mention more complexity and more time involved to put together.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cjc75*
> 
> How does it handle the overclocking?
> 
> I've got an i5-2500K overclocked at 4.6ghz almost 24/7, and its being cooled by an old H50 with a pair of Gentle Typhoon's on its Rad in push/pull; been running it since about 2011 and its been flawless. Now I've got a newer i5-4690K, and this new CM Trooper case, which will be replacing my older Phenon II rig, and I'm debating its cooling solution.


I can't speak about reliability but any of the above will definitely be better than an H50 for cooling performance.


----------



## Nickskiguy97

Where do you guys buy all your parts and cooling? newegg.com ? http://hqc.international not sure where to get my stuff


----------



## cjc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickskiguy97*
> 
> Where do you guys buy all your parts and cooling? newegg.com ? http://hqc.international not sure where to get my stuff


PerformancePC and FrozenCPU both have a huge range of high end water cooling parts.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/
http://www.frozencpu.com/

They're the most popular online retailers for such things.

For the Corsair kits though, I either go with Newegg or Microcenter.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cjc75*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nickskiguy97*
> 
> Where do you guys buy all your parts and cooling? newegg.com ? http://hqc.international not sure where to get my stuff
> 
> 
> 
> PerformancePC and FrozenCPU both have a huge range of high end water cooling parts.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/
> http://www.frozencpu.com/
> 
> They're the most popular online retailers for such things.
> 
> For the Corsair kits though, I either go with Newegg or Microcenter.
Click to expand...

Might want to hold off on recommending or ordering anything from FrozenCPU atm. In case you haven't heard ....

http://www.overclock.net/t/1540656/unsourced-frozencpu-shuts-its-doors/

Sad sad news.


----------



## Nickskiguy97

Thanks guys lots of help! I guess il hold off on FrozenCPU


----------



## generalkayoss

Its pretty shady how they didn't even have the decency to take the website down, and kept taking orders and money for purchases that would never be shipped.


----------



## cjc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Might want to hold off on recommending or ordering anything from FrozenCPU atm. In case you haven't heard ....
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1540656/unsourced-frozencpu-shuts-its-doors/
> 
> Sad sad news.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *generalkayoss*
> 
> Its pretty shady how they didn't even have the decency to take the website down, and kept taking orders and money for purchases that would never be shipped.


WOW....

...and I almost placed an order with them just last night, but decided to hold off and wait another day.


----------



## generalkayoss

Be glad you did. You would have been throwing money away. I was about to buy a 280mm fan grill from them last week but I saw the same one on eBay a couple of bucks cheaper and went that route.


----------



## cjc75

FrozenCPU .. NOT shutting its doors, confirmed BY the owner.

http://www.hardocp.com/news/2015/02/10/frozencpu_shutting_its_doors#.VN5SVC5jM_E

They are running off a skeleton crew at present and just struggling to rebuild the company!

Though still, I wouldn't order from them until they're back into FULL swing!


----------



## generalkayoss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cjc75*
> 
> FrozenCPU .. NOT shutting its doors, confirmed BY the owner.
> 
> http://www.hardocp.com/news/2015/02/10/frozencpu_shutting_its_doors#.VN5SVC5jM_E
> 
> They are running off a skeleton crew at present and just struggling to rebuild the company!
> 
> Though still, I wouldn't order from them until they're back into FULL swing!


Well that's good news. What exactly happened over there?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cjc75*
> 
> FrozenCPU .. NOT shutting its doors, confirmed BY the owner.
> 
> http://www.hardocp.com/news/2015/02/10/frozencpu_shutting_its_doors#.VN5SVC5jM_E
> 
> They are running off a skeleton crew at present and just struggling to rebuild the company!
> 
> Though still, I wouldn't order from them until they're back into FULL swing!


Yeah I wouldn't really go by a single post which again is not from Mark himself. People drove by FCPU and there have been no people there for the past 2-3 days based on the snow level and lack of any tracks. No vendor or customer has heard anything from Mark directly but somehow Kyle did?


----------



## cam135

Here's my idea I don't want to dump 1k+ into my rig for a full custom water loop so I was planning on buying 2 h110 and a corsair hg10 to cool a 4770k and a gtx 780. I would upgrade the fans and control them with the bitfenix recon 5 channel fan controller. Would this work or am I wasting money. How would I monitor the cpu/gpu temps?


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Should work fine, provided you have space to mount the rads of course! You'd monitor GPU and CPU like you would any other time--using monitoring programs like SpeedFan, etc.


----------



## cam135

Could I use the temp probes that came with the FC to monitor and control temps? I was thinking close to the dies or in the rad fins closest to the "hot" input.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

You could do that. Will typically be less accurate under load, than the on-die sensors in the CPU and GPU, but yeah that will work. Just keep in mind the temps on the probes are likely going to be several degrees lower than what the die is actually at. If you use the radiator as a measurement point you also have to be aware that the rad temp will "lag" behind the processor temp. While the processor (either GPU or CPU) will rise immediately when under load, the rad temp may take a little while under the same load, to show an appreciable increase. As long as you got the pumps running though, it's not a big deal and you should be able to set it up to cool well.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tateep*
> 
> I've been in contact with Andrew through your support system and he says that it was normal pump sounds, however another issue came up where the pump was stuck on 3,000 rpm and one of the fans was stuck at 530 rpm and neither would respond to Corsair Link. The 2nd fan was functioning fine and was responding to CL. He suggested I remove all fan controls in the Bios and delete Corsair Link and all remnants of it in the Roaming folder but unfortunately it didn't fix the issue. Then, late last night the pump quit. Fans were running but no pump. CL showed zero. I quickly Rebooted the system and no joy. Today I shipped it back to Amazon. Guess I got a bad one.


Sounds like you did get a bad unit, that's unfortunate. Is Amazon sending a replacement?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> In my system i have 3 corsair pumps, and they are louder than my fans ;P
> and why would i turn them off? well while browsing or something light-loaded, u dont need to cool ur processors, so why not use a program to turn them on only when u need the cooling?
> 30-45c is a OK idle temp if u have a pump + rad to cool it down once it reaches 47- 50c while gaming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but now i cant get the software to see my H80i..


Try moving your cooler's USB connector to a different USB header on the MB. But before you do that, uninstall Corsair Link and reinstall it. Sorry if I missed it, but you have 8.1 right?


----------



## cjc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cjc75*
> 
> FrozenCPU .. NOT shutting its doors, confirmed BY the owner.
> 
> http://www.hardocp.com/news/2015/02/10/frozencpu_shutting_its_doors#.VN5SVC5jM_E
> 
> They are running off a skeleton crew at present and just struggling to rebuild the company!
> 
> Though still, I wouldn't order from them until they're back into FULL swing!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I wouldn't really go by a single post which again is not from Mark himself. People drove by FCPU and there have been no people there for the past 2-3 days based on the snow level and lack of any tracks. No vendor or customer has heard anything from Mark directly but somehow Kyle did?
Click to expand...

Yes it seems I was apparently mistaken, I did not originally read the entire 80+ page discussion and see all the videos and pictures dug up showing how bad things are there... which are now edited into the original post on that discussion.


----------



## NorKris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Sounds like you did get a bad unit, that's unfortunate. Is Amazon sending a replacement?
> Try moving your cooler's USB connector to a different USB header on the MB. But before you do that, uninstall Corsair Link and reinstall it. Sorry if I missed it, but you have 8.1 right?


yeah i did, it didnt help :/ but what did help was to go to regedit and change some stuff, i fint it weird that i have to change stuff in regedit to get ur software working..
the H80i showed up but the software didnt manage to read GPU or CPU temps... bad just tooo bad


----------



## Ceadderman

Actually FPC is indeed done. Last night I saw it posted in the watercooling thread by an employee who took the time to post proof complete with Pics of the Offices and Workbenches. No self respecting owner would allow any employee to leave their business in such disarray. I have worked in a cabinet shop and everything was picked up and put away @ the end of shift and airguns were refilled for the next shift/day.









~Ceadder


----------



## kasek

want to get a closed loop CPU water cooler to put on the back exhaust fan spot in my storm scout 2. I have the sabertooth z77 mobo so a 1155 socket, and i have 2 120mm fans mounted on the top and i want to have 2 blue led fans mounted to the rad. i was looking at the Hydro Series™ H80i High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler. anyone know if this will fit with 2 fans mounted on it. also will the tubes bypass my ram fine i have a ram cooler like this http://www.kingston.com/en/hyperx/fan

on a side note im curious if its possible to replace the hoses with neon blue ones or would this be a bad idea.

thanks for the input


----------



## generalkayoss

Have you considered a simple custom loop? I say that because you mentioned changing the hoses. It can be done, but i'd be hesitant about it.


----------



## tateep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Sounds like you did get a bad unit, that's unfortunate. Is Amazon sending a replacement?
> Try moving your cooler's USB connector to a different USB header on the MB. But before you do that, uninstall Corsair Link and reinstall it. Sorry if I missed it, but you have 8.1 right?


Yeah, that's what I figured. Unfortunately no as Amazon was out of stock and the wait was about 3-5 weeks so I opted for a refund. I will try again when the dust settles a bit.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kasek*
> 
> want to get a closed loop CPU water cooler to put on the back exhaust fan spot in my storm scout 2. I have the sabertooth z77 mobo so a 1155 socket, and i have 2 120mm fans mounted on the top and i want to have 2 blue led fans mounted to the rad. i was looking at the Hydro Series™ H80i High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler. anyone know if this will fit with 2 fans mounted on it. also will the tubes bypass my ram fine i have a ram cooler like this http://www.kingston.com/en/hyperx/fan
> 
> on a side note im curious if its possible to replace the hoses with neon blue ones or would this be a bad idea.
> 
> thanks for the input


Looks like your case supports a 120mm radiator at the top rear fan location. Supports a CM Seidon 120XL which is the same size as an H80i, (and also has two fans). The tubes are fairly flexible on the H80i and you can mount the block different directions as well, so I'd imagine you _should_ be able to get it around your RAM cooler without too much trouble.

Replacing the hoses on a CLC is possible but first of all it will void your warranty; secondly you'll have to use an appropriate coolant and/or additives to refill it; and thirdly you'll have to bleed it which is a lot easier said than done on a CLC with no reservoir. In all honesty it isn't the greatest idea. If you want to keep your warranty and not have to spend a lot of time and effort on it you could always try cosmetic sleeving on the hoses instead.


----------



## Bonjovi

Hello Guys
Im gonna buy H110I GT

Can some one give me a little recommendation about that cooler?
is it better than H110 Extreme? or H100I? I mean is it way better?

I want it for I7 4790K and can i overclock it with it?

thenx


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> Hello Guys
> Im gonna buy H110I GT
> 
> Can some one give me a little recommendation about that cooler?
> is it better than H110 Extreme? or H100I? I mean is it way better?


H110 is 280mm (140x2) rad, Asetek design, no Corsair Link.
H110i GT is 280mm rad, Cool It design, Corsair Link, has larger tubing and what looks like larger rad endcaps/tanks.

In theory the H110i GT should be the better of the two. Probably not "way better" but slightly better, at least.

H100i is good but it's a lower tier IMO, as it's a 240mm unit. It has a Cool It block and hoses, along with Corsair Link, similar to H110i GT, but it's a smaller rad.

In order of performance it's probably like this:
H100i < H110 < H110i GT


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> Hello Guys
> Im gonna buy H110I GT
> 
> Can some one give me a little recommendation about that cooler?
> is it better than H110 Extreme? or H100I? I mean is it way better?
> 
> I want it for I7 4790K and can i overclock it with it?
> 
> thenx


When I have those types of questions, I go looking for reviews and performance comparisons.


----------



## kasek55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *generalkayoss*
> 
> Have you considered a simple custom loop? I say that because you mentioned changing the hoses. It can be done, but i'd be hesitant about it.


Ya I was just curious if it could b done. I didn't wanna buy a pump reservoir fittings tubing coolant then I'm up past 100$
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> Looks like your case supports a 120mm radiator at the top rear fan location. Supports a CM Seidon 120XL which is the same size as an H80i, (and also has two fans). The tubes are fairly flexible on the H80i and you can mount the block different directions as well, so I'd imagine you _should_ be able to get it around your RAM cooler without too much trouble.
> 
> Replacing the hoses on a CLC is possible but first of all it will void your warranty; secondly you'll have to use an appropriate coolant and/or additives to refill it; and thirdly you'll have to bleed it which is a lot easier said than done on a CLC with no reservoir. In all honesty it isn't the greatest idea. If you want to keep your warranty and not have to spend a lot of time and effort on it you could always try cosmetic sleeving on the hoses instead.


Wasn't worried about warranty cuz I wouldn't do it until it was up. I didn't think about the bleeding though it would b hard. But thanks for the info I'll have to start looking for the best price so I can remove my hyper 212 plus


----------



## cjc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cjc75*
> 
> Question, I don't see the Corsair H105 and H110 listed on the front page...
> 
> I am debating on doing a full custom water loop in my new CM Trooper case... I've got an old Apogee XT cpu block, an MCP655 pump, and an XSPC RX120 Rad. But I'll still need to buy a decent Bay Res, and probably one extra Rad; and a few fittings and new tubing, etc... probably at least around another $150 - $200 in extra parts. Or I could save quite a bit, and could go with a decent Corsair kit; slap a couple Gentle Typhoon AP-15's on its Rad and be set.
> 
> But if I decide to go with a Corsair kit, then I much prefer the thicker 240 Rad like the H105 kit has; and I'm wondering how it compares with the more popular H100i?
> 
> How does it handle the overclocking?
> 
> I've got an i5-2500K overclocked at 4.6ghz almost 24/7, and its being cooled by an old H50 with a pair of Gentle Typhoon's on its Rad in push/pull; been running it since about 2011 and its been flawless. Now I've got a newer i5-4690K, and this new CM Trooper case, which will be replacing my older Phenon II rig, and I'm debating its cooling solution.


So....

No one can answer this for me?

I'm leaning more towards going with a new Corsair kit as opposed to using my existing parts cause... I would likely have to buy some additional items, probably an extra rad and definetely a new res and more fittings... and it all would probably cost more then a Corsair kit, but going that route would definetely beat out any existing Corsair kit...

But considering FrozenCPU's collapse... I'm still not sure, and am still debating what I should do and the more I think about it the more I keep looking at the H105 and thinking it will just be the easiest and simplest way to get this rig built and done with.


----------



## EaglePC

H110I GT amazing !!!


----------



## Bonjovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EaglePC*
> 
> H110I GT amazing !!!


10/16/18/ c ?

are you living in the ice? minimum temperature must not be lower than your room temperature : )) deam its winter man







you need some radiator for hot water in the room









and plz can you test it in Intelburn full test and post plzz


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> 10/16/18/ c ?
> 
> are you living in the ice? minimum temperature must not be lower than your room temperature : )) deam its winter man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you need some radiator for hot water in the room


While that is true, keep in mind the whole point of using RealTemp is to show what the CPU is reporting. The CPU cores/DTS do not report temperature (which is a measurement put to a scale). They report distance to Tjmax. Temperature is "calculated" (i.e. inaccurately) by taking Tjmax, subtracting the distance to Tjmax and giving a value. As per both physics and Intel specifications for the DTSes this type of calculation does not really equal _temperature_ (which is again a measurement on a scale).

That said, "temperature" values can _roughly_ be taken as temperature when using this kind of loose calculation; but remember, the further away from Tjmax you are, the less accurate it will be. Clearly the DTS on Core 0 of his CPU is quite a bit off at these temps. Realistically he's probably close to ambient at idle, and maybe around 30-35C loaded (though that's still pretty awesome if that loaded is with Linpack or Prime95?).


----------



## EaglePC

yes guys I must admit my room is @47 degrees waiting for the heating guy fix my stove ,


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cjc75*
> 
> So....
> 
> No one can answer this for me?
> 
> I'm leaning more towards going with a new Corsair kit as opposed to using my existing parts cause... I would likely have to buy some additional items, probably an extra rad and definetely a new res and more fittings... and it all would probably cost more then a Corsair kit, but going that route would definetely beat out any existing Corsair kit...
> 
> But considering FrozenCPU's collapse... I'm still not sure, and am still debating what I should do and the more I think about it the more I keep looking at the H105 and thinking it will just be the easiest and simplest way to get this rig built and done with.


If you were happy with an old H50 on a [email protected] then you will be dazzled with either the H105 or slightly better H110. For reference you can see my OC temps with the 2500K/old H100 *HERE* my post is a little outdated but you get the idea







... AND I'd say the H105/H110 probably perform 4-6c better than the H100 depending on OC/case flow/rad setup etc etc
For simplicity's sake I'd go with the AIO and even though it will not match your custom loop it would be more than adequate for an average OC (4.4-4.6GHz) on a 4-core Devil's Canyon chip.

Personally I'd go for the H105 and even though OCN's case compatibility thread doesn't list the CM Trooper (older model w/handle) with the H105 or the H110 they will both fit ... but you have more options with proven, reasonably priced fans (120mm) for the 240 rad as opposed to the 140mm 280 rad if noise/performance is a concern?

H110 fits CM Trooper *HERE* ...

Some Installation and Modding tips for 120mm and stock 140mm fans for HAF932/H110 ... *HERE* ...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EaglePC*
> 
> H110I GT amazing !!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks like a very nice install









BUT ... it is amazing compared to what? with what? doing WHAT? idle temps only ... yikes








Even though the link in my sig [How to properly post your AIO cooler results & ?'s] is getting a bit dated, it will still give you the general idea of what info many of us are eagerly awaiting ....


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tateep*
> 
> Yeah, that's what I figured. Unfortunately no as Amazon was out of stock and the wait was about 3-5 weeks so I opted for a refund. I will try again when the dust settles a bit.


Next time if something like this happens again, aside from getting in touch with your re-seller, contact our support guys (or me) too and ask for an Express RMA, that way we can send you a replacement first before you send the faulty unit back to us. Most of our customers would normally take this route to minimize your system downtime.


----------



## cjc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> If you were happy with an old H50 on a [email protected] then you will be dazzled with either the H105 or slightly better H110. For reference you can see my OC temps with the 2500K/old H100 *HERE* my post is a little outdated but you get the idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... AND I'd say the H105/H110 probably perform 4-6c better than the H100 depending on OC/case flow/rad setup etc etc
> For simplicity's sake I'd go with the AIO and even though it will not match your custom loop it would be more than adequate for an average OC (4.4-4.6GHz) on a 4-core Devil's Canyon chip.
> 
> Personally I'd go for the H105 and even though OCN's case compatibility thread doesn't list the CM Trooper (older model w/handle) with the H105 or the H110 they will both fit ... but you have more options with proven, reasonably priced fans (120mm) for the 240 rad as opposed to the 140mm 280 rad if noise/performance is a concern?
> 
> H110 fits CM Trooper *HERE* ..


Alright... Well, I like the Corsair cause its simple, and the H105 has the interchangeable color pieces and its blue will go nicely with my motherboard. Like my old H50, I can just put it in, and leave it in for 4 years and forget about it!

Well except for the occasional need to take a can of air to the rad! lol

But how would a single H105 compare to a single MCP655 pump with either a single XSPC RX120 Rad, or two RX120's?

Cause I have one RX120 now, and while most people say "add a 240!"... its not really in my current budget to buy a new 240 and a dual bay Res, especially the fancy Monsoon res that I want...

But I could pull off getting a second RX120 and cheaper XSPC dual bay Res... and then use my old custom loop parts... but then again, they're old parts...an old Apogee XT cpu block, one RX120 Rad and an MCP655 pump... I bought them back in 2011, used, from another OCN member... used them briefly on an old Phenom II x4/DDR2 rig, and then they've been sitting on a shelf ever since!

So either I could do that.... or I could go with a Corsair kit and sell the old parts...

Personally, I'm not out to set any overclocking records and got no one to show off too.

I just want a cleanly built PC!


----------



## tateep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Next time if something like this happens again, aside from getting in touch with your re-seller, contact our support guys (or me) too and ask for an Express RMA, that way we can send you a replacement first before you send the faulty unit back to us. Most of our customers would normally take this route to minimize your system downtime.


Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I still have my Noctua U14S as a backup in case this watercooling thing doesn't work out.


----------



## EaglePC

ok once my room get proper heat lol this will change


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cjc75*
> 
> Alright... Well, I like the Corsair cause its simple, and the H105 has the interchangeable color pieces and its blue will go nicely with my motherboard. Like my old H50, I can just put it in, and leave it in for 4 years and forget about it!
> 
> Well except for the occasional need to take a can of air to the rad! lol
> 
> But how would a single H105 compare to a single MCP655 pump with either a single XSPC RX120 Rad, or two RX120's?


RX120 looks like it's a 46mm thick copper/brass rad. MCP655 is also a much better pump than the Asetek block in the H105. So, H105 is 240/38mm alum rad and weaker pump. I think at worst the RX120/MCP655 setup will be as good as the H105. Though I would imagine it could outperform it. If you had two RX120s, I don't think there's any question--it'll be significantly ahead of the H105.

I still think (as said in the other thread) you should go ahead and put together the custom loop since you have half of the parts. But if getting the H105 is more convenient, just get that and sell the parts. The H105 is by no means a poor cooler--it's pretty much at the top-end of AIO/CLC coolers. The 140mmx2 (280/27) CLCs are probably around the same performance as the H105, and I think only CLC that's any better than this class of CLCs would be Swiftech's H220-X/H240-X and those are copper rad and aren't completely closed-loop either. So H105 is still a good cooler. It's not going to outperform a properly done custom loop with a better pump and rad though, so the choice is up to you. (Speaking of the Swiftech units though...have you considered one of those?)

If, as you say, you don't want to push overclock limits and just want something simple and clean, I think the H105 may be the way to go. I'd imagine if you sell the parts you have you'll almost make up for the cost of the H105 as well.


----------



## cjc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> I still think (as said in the other thread) you should go ahead and put together the custom loop since you have half of the parts. But if getting the H105 is more convenient, just get that and sell the parts. The H105 is by no means a poor cooler--it's pretty much at the top-end of AIO/CLC coolers. The 140mmx2 (280/27) CLCs are probably around the same performance as the H105, and I think only CLC that's any better than this class of CLCs would be Swiftech's H220-X/H240-X and those are copper rad and aren't completely closed-loop either. So H105 is still a good cooler. It's not going to outperform a properly done custom loop with a better pump and rad though, so the choice is up to you. (Speaking of the Swiftech units though...have you considered one of those?)


Yea I've looked at the Swiftech's, they look absolutely awesome...

But they seem to be out of stock just about everywhere, and most places reporting 2 - 4 weeks back order time. Add to that, they're just a fraction out of the budget range at the moment, and its a budget thats gradually shrinking the longer I wait and debate on this, as I have other more important things that need attention... like, some needed repairs on my car, and a credit card bill to Microcenter thats about to be due after buying the CPU and Mobo for this rig from them back on Black Friday! lol

So I'm leaning more towards the H105... could probably slap some better fans on it and get an extra 2 degrees out of it at least. I've got an extra pair of Gentle Typhoon AP-15's that have been sitting on a shelf for awhile too, so I'll put them on and see how they compare to the stock Corsair SP120 fans.


----------



## Ceadderman

I would suggest stockpiling then. Figure out what your budget would reasonably handle over a set period and fill it with as much as you can reasonably do so until you have everything you need to out it together. Thatms how I did it when I got into the h50 and then when I put my first loop together.









~Ceadder


----------



## deathizem

so how do I join


----------



## generalkayoss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathizem*
> 
> so how do I join


I don't think they really update the list anymore due to the massive amount of people using Corsair coolers now


----------



## deathizem

funny thing today my temps are on the high side was about 70c on load with prime and today it hit around 88c think I might need to a clean up of paste and cooler block it has ben about 2 years with this set up?


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *generalkayoss*
> 
> I don't think they really update the list anymore due to the massive amount of people using Corsair coolers now


There's the Google Docs you can add yourself to on your own but looks like the doc for the "new" coolers is messed up. That and the "new" coolers are becoming old again as the GT coolers are now out and are the 3rd generation I guess you could say.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathizem*
> 
> funny thing today my temps are on the high side was about 70c on load with prime and today it hit around 88c think I might need to a clean up of paste and cooler block it has ben about 2 years with this set up?


Yeah that sounds way too high. Is your pump spinning? What model do you have (and what CPU/clock/vcore are you running)? Also check the rad for dust/debris. Your temp shouldn't just go up like that if you're used to seeing lower temperatures. Either you have a pump failure, internal radiator blockage (or possibly leak!), or the rad is externally plugged with dust or something. As for the TIM, it depends on what you originally used but most good TIM (including the stuff that would have been pre-applied) is quite stable for many years and shouldn't need replacing periodically.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> There's the Google Docs you can add yourself to on your own but looks like the doc for the "new" coolers is messed up. That and the "new" coolers are becoming old again as the GT coolers are now out and are the 3rd generation I guess you could say.
> .


We'll get that fixed for you guys. I'll get someone to update this thread and add those new coolers. It's always nice to keep track of current and future Corsair hydro cooler owners. This thread has a very good track record of exchanging vital information among hydro cooler owners, so it would only make sense to bring it back on track.

I'll keep you guys posted


----------



## deathizem

hey all found my prob and it is just dumb on my part with the new job and all things kinda nuts around here I forgot to clean my case filters in the last three months look like a fur ball on all three of them thanks for the input:thumb:


----------



## deathizem

oh I forgot to add my cooler it is the CORSAIR Hydro Series H105 Extreme Performance 240mm Liquid CPU Cooler

it was just those dam filters

about 2 hours into prime and keeping around 65 66c all looks good


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> We'll get that fixed for you guys. I'll get someone to update this thread and add those new coolers. It's always nice to keep track of current and future Corsair hydro cooler owners. This thread has a very good track record of exchanging vital information among hydro cooler owners, so it would only make sense to bring it back on track.
> 
> I'll keep you guys posted


AWESOME ... +R for you HeeHee









It's been kinda hit N miss over the past few years as guys taking on the responsibility of maintaining such a popular thread didn't realize the time involved


----------



## Timstuff

I've got an Ivybridge i7 cooled on an H80i, and I'm planning to swap cases and coolers so that I can get a higher overclock without frying it. Currently it's at a safe 4.3 GHz that peaks at about 84°C, and I want to get it up to 4.5°. Right now anything "stable" past 4.3 GHz is going to be well into the 90s or higher, so I'm going to sell the H80i to my brother to use in his mini ITX rig.

I'm pretty much settled on the Corsair C70 for the case, but should I get an H100i, or an H110i GT for the cooler? The case will fit both and the price difference isn't that big. Considering how hot Ivybridge CPUs run, I am thinking that the H110i GT would give me the most bang for my buck, but I figured I should ask first. A 280mm rad seems almost like overkill in a mid-sized tower, but if I'm doing only one set of fans and not push/pull, then the bigger rad and fans might be the right choice, and it would cost about the same as getting an H100i with extra fans.



Also, Linus said that if you're using only one set of fans, go with a pull config, since it is easy to clean. My H80i gets very dusty behind the push fan, but on the other hand my current case has very poor dust filtering and the C70 is supposed to be a lot better in that regard (as long as I put on a custom side window with no holes, which I intend to). How big of a problem is radiator dust in cases that have proper filters over all of the intakes? The Corsair fans supposedly perform better in either push or push/pull, and also it would be nice to not give up having LED fans visible from the side window, but aesthetics and a 3-4°C difference in temperature isn't going to make a lick of difference if the radiator ends up clogged with dust bunnies anyway, and the noise caused by push/pull might not be worth it. What is the popular wisdom of the owners' club as far as what configuration to use?


----------



## Ceadderman

I like Linus but going pull only is really of no proven benefit over Push. I neglected to mention in the HAF thread that running a fan controller minimizes the level of noise. Many of us run @ least one. So you can bounce that from the argument for imho. I ran Pull on my 360 specifically due to my 360 being used as Exhaust and for no other reason. Dust was minimal due to being filtered before blowing through the Radiator although my fans were mounted on top. I ran P/P with a shroud on my h50 and controlled the fans with my Sunbeam Rheosmart 3channel fan controller. The lower the flow of power the quieter my fans ran. Sometimes I think Linus doesn't think through, the way MOST experienced users run their setups.









~Ceadder


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timstuff*
> 
> I've got an Ivybridge i7 cooled on an H80i, and I'm planning to swap cases and coolers so that I can get a higher overclock without frying it. Currently it's at a safe 4.3 GHz that peaks at about 84°C, and I want to get it up to 4.5°. Right now anything "stable" past 4.3 GHz is going to be well into the 90s or higher, so I'm going to sell the H80i to my brother to use in his mini ITX rig.
> 
> I'm pretty much settled on the Corsair C70 for the case, but should I get an H100i, or an H110i GT for the cooler? The case will fit both and the price difference isn't that big. Considering how hot Ivybridge CPUs run, I am thinking that the H110i GT would give me the most bang for my buck, but I figured I should ask first. A 280mm rad seems almost like overkill in a mid-sized tower, but if I'm doing only one set of fans and not push/pull, then the bigger rad and fans might be the right choice, and it would cost about the same as getting an H100i with extra fans.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, Linus said that if you're using only one set of fans, go with a pull config, since it is easy to clean. My H80i gets very dusty behind the push fan, but on the other hand my current case has very poor dust filtering and the C70 is supposed to be a lot better in that regard (as long as I put on a custom side window with no holes, which I intend to). How big of a problem is radiator dust in cases that have proper filters over all of the intakes? The Corsair fans supposedly perform better in either push or push/pull, and also it would be nice to not give up having LED fans visible from the side window, but aesthetics and a 3-4°C difference in temperature isn't going to make a lick of difference if the radiator ends up clogged with dust bunnies anyway, and the noise caused by push/pull might not be worth it. What is the popular wisdom of the owners' club as far as what configuration to use?


I would say go all out with an H110i GT because it does cool a lot better so it's the best choice if you want the highest overclock. Also it should be much quieter than the H100i since it's fans are bigger. The config you should run it at is really in pull with the stock Corsair fans since the are high speed PWM models so you can speed it up to it's full 2000RPM when you're pushing it hard and slow it way down when on idle. I do this on my H80i and it does go to 2700RPM on high loads like [email protected] for example but my 4.6GHz 4690K stays at 70-77.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I like Linus but going pull only is really of no proven benefit over Push. I neglected to mention in the HAF thread that running a fan controller minimizes the level of noise. Many of us run @ least one. So you can bounce that from the argument for imho. I ran Pull on my 360 specifically due to my 360 being used as Exhaust and for no other reason. Dust was minimal due to being filtered before blowing through the Radiator although my fans were mounted on top. I ran P/P with a shroud on my h50 and controlled the fans with my Sunbeam Rheosmart 3channel fan controller. The lower the flow of power the quieter my fans ran. Sometimes I think Linus doesn't think through, the way MOST experienced users run their setups.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Actually the reason Linus advises to run in pull is so that you can easily wipe off dust from the radiator, because it doesn't matter if it's in push or pull. And doing push pull doesn't give much benefit like he said, trust me I tried it myself on my H80i and it gives maybe only a 2 degrees benefit over pull with push pull only making my H80i MUCH LOUDER.


----------



## cjc75

So I settled on buying an H105!

I work for a local IT company, and we have a really good relationship with several corporate resellers in the area and i picked one up for a flat $105! Cheaper then Newegg!

Its optional blue ring makes it look perfect with my motherboard.



Its all a work in progress, I've already swapped the stock corsair fans out for a pair of Gentle Typhoon AP-15's.

Im in the process of working on the wiring in the case, at the moment only thing visible inside is the motherboard and the H105's tubing.. but then haven't added anything else to the build, yet...


----------



## Timstuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awesomeguy10578*
> 
> I would say go all out with an H110i GT because it does cool a lot better so it's the best choice if you want the highest overclock. Also it should be much quieter than the H100i since it's fans are bigger. The config you should run it at is really in pull with the stock Corsair fans since the are high speed PWM models so you can speed it up to it's full 2000RPM when you're pushing it hard and slow it way down when on idle. I do this on my H80i and it does go to 2700RPM on high loads like [email protected]H for example but my 4.6GHz 4690K stays at 70-77.
> Actually the reason Linus advises to run in pull is so that you can easily wipe off dust from the radiator, because it doesn't matter if it's in push or pull. And doing push pull doesn't give much benefit like he said, trust me I tried it myself on my H80i and it gives maybe only a 2 degrees benefit over pull with push pull only making my H80i MUCH LOUDER.


My H80i is pretty noisy, and when I give it to my younger brother for his Silverstone SG05 it will probably be push-only, both for noise and because I am doubtful that we can fit a push/pull config in the case without damaging the mobo. Not too worried about dust build up since the SG05 has a removable filter over the front intake fan.

In regards to my own case, I'd like some suggestions as to how a pull-only H110i GT would perform compared to an H100i in push/pull. I am pretty sure an H110i GT in push/pull is out of the question in a C70 case due to the size restrictions with the motherboard VRM. Push/pull is more viable for my older brother's HAF X due to the space, and because he's accepted that the thing is high performance and loud for a long time now.


----------



## Timstuff

Looking at this review, an H100i in push/pull and an H110i GT in pull-only are probably going to be very similar in performance.

http://www.kitguru.net/components/cooling/leo-waldock/corsair-h110i-gt-review/





Assuming a second pair of fans on an H100i would shave off 2-5ºC, we'd be looking at virtually the same temperatures, or even a few degrees better.

BUT!

The H110i GT only needs one set of fans, and since those fans are bigger they are going to run a lot quieter while moving the same amount of air-- not to mention that in a pull config, that would make for easier cleaning. Also, considering I wouldn't need to buy a second set of fans or a pair of PWM splitter cables for the H110i GT, it costs about the same as a H100i with an extra set of SP120s. It all boils down to how much noise that extra couple of degrees is worth, and given how noisy my Storm Scout build is I am definitely interested in making things quieter next time. A bunch of rubber grommets and such is not going to make a lot of difference if I've got twice as many SP120s humming away than my current setup, as opposed to two SP140s. I think that given that the Corsair C70 was specifically designed to have space for big rads like the H110 and H110i GT, the H110i GT is going to be the winner. The H100i is probably an option better suited for smaller cases that won't fit a 280mm radiator.


----------



## UZ7

Few days old but for those interested Corsair Link 3.1.5525 has been released.

Download: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/support/downloads
Quote:


> This software release is primarily for the support of the new H80i GT and H100i GTX coolers. We are still working on software/firmware updates based on end user feedback and internal testing for other items. Please see the change log and known issues below.


Quote:


> Change Log:
> 
> 
> Add support for H80i GT and H100i GTX CPU Coolers.
> Add multi-Language support. English, French, German, Spanish, Japanese, and Russian supported.
> Add a sliding bar to the graphing tab that allows for selection of the update interval in seconds from 1 to 60.
> Remove "Send Email" portion of the notifications section from the program.
> Correct a certain situation when a configuration window is open and a value is entered or changed then a mouse click happens outside the window it would change tabs.
> Updated CPUID hardware detection backend for support of the latest hardware.
> 
> Known Issues:
> 
> 
> There is a driver conflict between the new H80i GT/H100i GTX and the original Commander unit. The new software installs a new driver that is required for support of these units that interrupts the recognition of the Commander unit. A firmware update for the Commander will be issued with a new software release to address this issue.
> SLI/Crossfire setups only show one GPU.
> Registry edits needed to correctly discover certain USB devices (H80i and H100i) are not being correctly installed on some Win 8 systems. Manually editing the registry on these systems is still needed.
> LED saved settings for "cycle color" not persistent after restart if two of the colors are set to 0 (255, 0,0) New firmware revision to address issues will be available in a later release.
> On certain Intel motherboards (Z87/Z97) that use the Intel USB 3.0 drivers it is necessary to change the "Legacy USB Support" to Disabled in BIOS for detection of the H80i/H100i/Commander units.
> When changing to a new language the UI window will minimize to the system tray and stay minimized. To bring back the UI use the system tray and "Show Corsair Link".
> RGB LED strips connected to a Commander Mini flash when a custom curve fan profile speed change takes place.
> If you currently have an original Commander unit do not install this version of the software. The Commander unit will no longer be recognized by the system! See below for instructions on how to manually fix this.
> 
> After installing and launching v3.1.5525 in a system that has the older Corsair Link Commander unit, if the Commander unit is missing from C-Link software, you can follow the instructions listed below to fix this problem:
> 
> Exit C-link software from the C-Link ICON on system tray.
> Open Windows device manager and find the problematic "Corsair Hydro Series 7289 USB Device" on the USB device list.
> Right click and select Update Driver Software.
> Select Browse My Computer for Device Software Manually and hit Next.
> Select Let Me Pick from list of device drivers on My computer and hit Next.
> Select USB Input Device and hit Next. After that, Windows will successfully update driver back to correct one.
> Restart C-Link software and Commander unit should appear back into C-Link software.


Discussion: http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138007

I'm still using 2.7.5339 with no problem so I may or may not check it out lol as I already did a registry fix for Windows 8 but for those having problems/issues be sure to check it out!


----------



## Timstuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UZ7*
> 
> Few days old but for those interested Corsair Link 3.1.5525 has been released.
> 
> Download: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/support/downloads
> 
> Discussion: http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138007
> 
> I'm still using 2.7.5339 with no problem so I may or may not check it out lol as I already did a registry fix for Windows 8 but for those having problems/issues be sure to check it out!


I updated just a few days ago-- I was still on Corsair Link 2. There are a few things about the newer version / versions that are a little less intuitive, but it's much more stable than CL2 so it's a price worth paying (CL2 loved to crash on me for inexplicable reasons).


----------



## Ceadderman

Push only while quieter, and yielding less than 3c differnce seems inconsequential for most. However those 3c can mean the difference in a successful OCing experience. Also, as I have pointed out a good Fan Controller will minimize the sound while allowing for the best temps possible. A side benefit for the Controller option is slower fan speed=less dust intake to some degree. I've run P/P on a single 120 rad h50 and imho P/P is worth it, regardless of dust. The only REAL benefit to running Push only, is space. I lost over 100mm of space in my 5.25" bay, as that was where my P/P with shroud before Push was located in Exhaust orientation. My setup yielded ~45c @ load. Intake would have given me another 1-2c drop in temp. I lapped the 955BE chip and the h50 cooling plate, so I was able to hit 4Ghz on my choice of cooler for a reasonable benefit.

Personally it's not that difficult to maintain a dust free setup with P/P. But not everybody is like me in their OCD free maintenance schedules. My suggestion here is to consider your overall goals and future plans regarding your setups. I am doing more now than what I initially started out intending to do. Which is why I am on Custom. Only 240 AiOs were available @tt. Maybe I would have stayed with AiOs if the 360 option were around. But I know from personal experience that I would still run P/P. Especially with more and more radiator compatible fans becoming available. Vardars, Gentle Typhoons and a few others that run quieter at Max than my Yate Loons could ever hope to be. If you game with a headset on your head, sound is a nonissue.

So imho, Linus is saying it's okay to be Lazy in system maintenance.







lmao

~Ceadder


----------



## Timstuff

Hmm, there's clearly a lot more to take into consideration then. One thing in particular: does anyone have a good quick-release solution for removing the push fans from a radiator, without having to unscrew them? That would cut down on maintenance difficulty significantly, and give me some peace of mind since I won't have to worry about the threads getting stripped from excessive use. I suppose treating the threads with Superlube would be a good preventative measure, though it doesn't solve the ease-of-access issue.


----------



## cam135

Can the h110 be plugged straight into a psu Molex connecter (with the right adapter of course







) instead of the mobo fan header?


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UZ7*
> 
> Few days old but for those interested Corsair Link 3.1.5525 has been released.
> 
> Download: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/support/downloads
> 
> Discussion: http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138007
> 
> I'm still using 2.7.5339 with no problem so I may or may not check it out lol as I already did a registry fix for Windows 8 but for those having problems/issues be sure to check it out!


Thanks for posting the latest Corsair Link version and the updates + Rep


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam135*
> 
> Can the h110 be plugged straight into a psu Molex connecter (with the right adapter of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) instead of the mobo fan header?


Yes, something like this http://store.cableorganizer.com/p-33370-3-pin-to-molex-adapter.aspx?gclid=Cj0KEQiAvKunBRCfsum9z6fu_5IBEiQAu4lg4hhcsGWSDUm-tp8lmeAM54sHU1EJ1pl0YEKA7lnHYUkaArs08P8HAQ


----------



## cam135

Awesome thanks for the quick response!!!


----------



## oxcon

Yes it can. However, you lose out on pump rpm monitoring... If you care to do that.


----------



## cam135

Well my mobo only has 2 pwm headers and I have 2 h110 one for cpu and one for gpu( as soon as hg10 N 780 comes out) but I also have 3 120 mm fans and 2 80mm fans I need to plug in to the other 3-3 pin fan headers and I was worried about frying the mobo


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timstuff*
> 
> Hmm, there's clearly a lot more to take into consideration then. One thing in particular: does anyone have a good quick-release solution for removing the push fans from a radiator, without having to unscrew them? That would cut down on maintenance difficulty significantly, and give me some peace of mind since I won't have to worry about the threads getting stripped from excessive use. I suppose treating the threads with Superlube would be a good preventative measure, though it doesn't solve the ease-of-access issue.


I use Koolance fan studs. Not only do they work for the quick installation/removal of fans but they are rather useful mounting radiators to the chassis of my case. Not sure what your threads are but my h50 were 6-32 if I remember correctly and so are the threads in my current Rad. So they work well for me.









~Ceadder


----------



## MikeSp

This is my first build using water cooling -- am curious if CPU temp of 40C seems too high without much stress on the CPU which is OC'd to 4.2 GHz (Corsair H105, i7-5930, two updraft Corsair SP120's through the rad) and plenty of case cooling with 7 other fans??

Thanks


----------



## Goettens

Hey guys, just something I want to get out of my mind.

For heavy overclocking, does a double 240mm rad do the job properly or does it have not enough cooling power to keep the liquid cool? Then you need a triple rad, or a double + single connected together (making it basically a triple)?











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



lol I'm trippin...


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goettens*
> 
> Hey guys, just something I want to get out of my mind.
> 
> For heavy overclocking, does a double 240mm rad do the job properly or does it have not enough cooling power to keep the liquid cool? Then you need a triple rad, or a double + single connected together (making it basically a triple)?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> lol I'm trippin...


Completely depends on what processor you are using and how well it can dissipate heat. 4790k for instance will hit a wall on a h100i and won't do much better if at all on a custom loop. 8350 or a 5960x on the other hand...


----------



## Goettens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Completely depends on what processor you are using and how well it can dissipate heat. 4790k for instance will hit a wall on a h100i and won't do much better if at all on a custom loop. 8350 or a 5960x on the other hand...


I don't actually have an overclockable processor, but I want to have one on near future, probably an i7 K Broadwell. I've read somewhere some people reporting high temperatures on overclocked i7 with watercoolers like H100i and H110, this means they don't have enough heat dissipation capability for them?


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goettens*
> 
> I don't actually have an overclockable processor, but I want to have one on near future, probably an i7 K Broadwell. I've read somewhere some people reporting high temperatures on overclocked i7 with watercoolers like H100i and H110, this means they don't have enough heat dissipation capability for them?


No, it's because the Haswell (Non-E) processors dissipate hear very poorly. At max Haswell (Non-E) can put about 150w overclocked. Compare that to the 140W TDP that the 5960x has and imagine that overclocked.










EDIT for clarification: Haswell (Non-E) will thermal throttle at 150w (under water or other non-extreme cooling options) Whereas Haswell-E could pull 225w and still not thermal throttle. These all ball-park numbers, so don't take them to heart. Just an example!


----------



## Timstuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I use Koolance fan studs. Not only do they work for the quick installation/removal of fans but they are rather useful mounting radiators to the chassis of my case. Not sure what your threads are but my h50 were 6-32 if I remember correctly and so are the threads in my current Rad. So they work well for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Are these what you were referring to? They look great. Tool-less removal of the fans is what I was looking for, an this solution would also mean less wear and tear on the radiator's screw hole threads, which was another concern I had about regular cleaning.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup. They come in two flavors, 28 and 38mm. So make sure you get the 28s. Sadly they don't have them larger than 38mm, so you would not be able to put a full size shroud under your Push fan if you run P/P.









~Ceadder


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Our very own Jeff Checchi is back again with our new H100i GTX Liquid CPU cooler. Check out the Installation video guide


----------



## Goettens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> No, it's because the Haswell (Non-E) processors dissipate hear very poorly. At max Haswell (Non-E) can put about 150w overclocked. Compare that to the 140W TDP that the 5960x has and imagine that overclocked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT for clarification: Haswell (Non-E) will thermal throttle at 150w (under water or other non-extreme cooling options) Whereas Haswell-E could pull 225w and still not thermal throttle. These all ball-park numbers, so don't take them to heart. Just an example!


Alright, I think I understand this. Thank you.









Also, have there been any reviews of the H80i GT and H100i GTX yet? I've found nothing.


----------



## Timstuff

I'd like to see how the H100i GTX performs compared to the H100i, especially in push/pull. It's a $20 bucks more expensive, but I'd pay a few bucks more to have my Ivybridge running a few degrees cooler. If the changes are only cosmetic I'll either just get the H100i or contemplate the scary world of custom loop kits.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timstuff*
> 
> I'd like to see how the H100i GTX performs compared to the H100i, especially in push/pull. It's a $20 bucks more expensive, but I'd pay a few bucks more to have my Ivybridge running a few degrees cooler. If the changes are only cosmetic I'll either just get the H100i or contemplate the scary world of custom loop kits.


The H100i GTX will perform better from what I've read. It won't be a HUGE difference, but a noticeable one.


----------



## Timstuff

Even if it's only 1 or 2 degrees, every degree helps! I render in Maya, which may not be quite as punishing Prime 95 but it still gets those cores revving up pretty darned hot.


----------



## Arizonian

*Announcement*

I've come to learn of some news I'd like to share and start off by thanking *Torresjasonc* for his role as thread starter up until now. I've learned he's been called away for duty to serve his country and reason for his current absence. Due to this he will be relinquishing thread starter responsibilities. Thank you for your time and effort in maintaining the [Official] Corsair Hydro Series Club. We wish you well.








*Torresjasonc*









With that said I'd like to thank *jameyscott* for taking on the responsibilities in maintaining the OP and new role as thread starter. I have confidence in him he's ready to take on this role well.


----------



## jameyscott

Thank you for the kind words!

I'll be updating the OP tomorrow to get everything up to date as well as add a new owner's list so we can have people add themselves again.


----------



## Ceadderman

Congrats Mate.









~Ceadder


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Thank you for assisting on this @Arizonian Much appreciated









As for @jameyscott taking over this role, we both know that this is a huge responsibility, since this is one of the busiest thread here in OCN. That in mind, we are confident that you are well equipped for this task and you'll just do fine









Grats and have fun with this new role!


----------



## TomcatV

Much encouragement and appreciation to jameyscott for taking on the task, this is one of the highest traffic threads @OCN and this will be the 3rd OP rep I've seen since coming here almost 3 years ago ... H100 still running flawlessly w/minimal maintenance!









Interesting a current custom-looper has the enthusiasm for the AIO section







... I've seen Jamey around now for quite awhile (maybe more so in the QX2710 thread?







), based on his participation I think he will make a very good Thread Manager and bring a much needed "facelift" to the OP ... +Rep for you









One thing I might suggest for the OP Guidelines, which has been frustrating for many of us disseminating information over the years, was a uniform spec/setup and testing methodology for a new (or old) member to present his AIO results and questions








I tried this with some success almost 2 years ago with a link in my sig to my post *HERE*








It's getting a little "dated", but your more than welcome to incorporate it if you wish and/or make your own edits/additions


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Much encouragement and appreciation to jameyscott for taking on the task, this is one of the highest traffic threads @OCN and this will be the 3rd OP rep I've seen since coming here almost 3 years ago ... H100 still running flawlessly w/minimal maintenance!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting a current custom-looper has the enthusiasm for the AIO section
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... I've seen Jamey around now for quite awhile (maybe more so in the QX2710 thread?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), based on his participation I think he will make a very good Thread Manager and bring a much needed "facelift" to the OP ... +Rep for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing I might suggest for the OP Guidelines, which has been frustrating for many of us disseminating information over the years, was a uniform spec/setup and testing methodology for a new (or old) member to present his AIO results and questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried this with some success almost 2 years ago with a link in my sig to my post *HERE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's getting a little "dated", but your more than welcome to incorporate it if you wish and/or make your own edits/additions


Thank you for the kind words! I'd be happy to add that information to the OP. I have done some work to it, but plan to do a lot more work to it such as adding more pictures, reviews, etc.

Let me know what you guys think! I'm just getting a base from where I can build from and add information without completely disrupting the OP.


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timstuff*
> 
> I'd like to see how the H100i GTX performs compared to the H100i, especially in push/pull. It's a $20 bucks more expensive, but I'd pay a few bucks more to have my Ivybridge running a few degrees cooler. If the changes are only cosmetic I'll either just get the H100i or contemplate the scary world of custom loop kits.


The H100i GTX has the same MSRP as the original H100i, $119. The H100i is discounted a bit more now since it's older and will be replaced by the GTX version at some point (based on sales mostly) but the prices should be roughly the same.

The GTX will outperform the 100i by about 1.5-2C at 200W of heat. So there's a difference but it's not massive. However, lots of things are improved as well, for example, mounting hardware, cosmetics, etc. Also the pump speed has two settings now which allows you to tweak that. And the replaceable pump cap and radiator inserts will be on our site soon once we get a vibe for the popular colors so you can mix and match to make your system look great.


----------



## AlphaBravo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> And the replaceable pump cap and radiator inserts will be on our site soon once we get a vibe for the popular colors so you can mix and match to make your system look great.


The H100i GTX is one good-looking CPU cooler. Will the replaceable radiator inserts be manufactured so that the Corsair name is not upside down if the radiator is mounted on the roof of a case with the hoses on the right?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> And the replaceable pump cap and radiator inserts will be on our site soon once we get a vibe for the popular colors so you can mix and match to make your system look great.


Well that's exciting, put me down for white variants. Is there any word on the release date of the HG10 N780 by any chance? Figured it'd drop at the end of Feb. slightly after the H110i GT.


----------



## cam135

Also waiting on the hg10 N780 for my build hopefully it comes soon!!!


----------



## godiegogo214

Hey wats up guys....Is it ok if I post for some help here?

I currently have an H110 mounted on the top of my machine with the stock fans on top of the radiator pulling air in......I am currently getting idle temps of 34C and load on stock clock on load like benchmark load i get 56C....Any ideas how i can make my temps go lower??? I have a corsair Obsidean 750D with the stock fans (2 140 in front pulling 1 140 in rear exausting)

Pc pic in profile

I wanted to try over clocking but my socket temps reached 66C and my pc throwing warnings left to right so i gave up on it until i can bring my temps down

any help is appreciated

Thanks


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godiegogo214*
> 
> Hey wats up guys....Is it ok if I post for some help here?
> 
> I currently have an H110 mounted on the top of my machine with the stock fans on top of the radiator pulling air in......I am currently getting idle temps of 34C and load on stock clock on load like benchmark load i get 56C....Any ideas how i can make my temps go lower??? I have a corsair Obsidean 750D with the stock fans (2 140 in front pulling 1 140 in rear exausting)
> 
> Pc pic in profile
> 
> I wanted to try over clocking but my socket temps reached 66C and my pc throwing warnings left to right so i gave up on it until i can bring my temps down
> 
> any help is appreciated
> 
> Thanks


If you can I'd put the fans in push (on the bottom of the radiator) and make them act as an exhaust at the top of your 750D, otherwise the other fans seem to be in the optimal configuration.

You're probably having a bit of trouble moving the heat output from those 290Xs to the outside since they're a non-blower design thus raising your temps more so.

With the H110 as exhaust it should keep the output from the GPUs at a better level since hot air won't be forced down on to them and keeping them from exhausting through case cracks and the only current exhaust (your rear 140mm).

Removing the front cover while gaming or whatever load intensive process you're doing will help significantly as well since it's just an easy click to do so.


----------



## godiegogo214

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> If you can I'd put the fans in push (on the bottom of the radiator) and make them act as an exhaust at the top of your 750D, otherwise the other fans seem to be in the optimal configuration.
> You're probably having a bit of trouble moving the heat output from those 290Xs to the outside since they're a non-blower design thus raising your temps more so.
> 
> With the H110 as exhaust it should keep the output from the GPUs at a better level since hot air won't be forced down on to them and keeping them from exhausting through case cracks and the only current exhaust (your rear 140mm)


Thank you for the tip.....i will change them again to exaust......any thoughts on changing the fans like to something different than the stock fans? I was thinking of changing the fans on the case all of them.....also were can i get some extra hardware for mounting the fans un bottom (the H110 didnt come with screws for mounting the fans on the bottom)


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godiegogo214*
> 
> Thank you for the tip.....i will change them again to exaust......any thoughts on changing the fans like to something different than the stock fans? I was thinking of changing the fans on the case all of them.....also were can i get some extra hardware for mounting the fans un bottom (the H110 didnt come with screws for mounting the fans on the bottom)


In my system, please expand my rig-sig and see it, I have immediately replaced Corsair's H110 stock fans with the four Noctua fans that you see in my signature. I have great results. The only "issue" I face is that the H110 with a four fan setup does not fit inside my chassis so I have placed it, on the top, with two fans outside. I want to get another two Noctua IPPC-2000 PWM and mount them as pull fans of my AIO, and then it will look great, too!

If you wish to see a very recent result of my system's cooling performance, please have a look at this post.

I know that you have a different chassis, I'm just giving you an example to compare to, though.

ps: I got the extra screws to mount my pull fans from the shop I got my H110. They cost me around 10 Euro.


----------



## jameyscott

I have a friend who is thinking about making a desk for PC enthusiasts/gamers and he needs some info for a business plan. Would you guys mind helping him out? If so, please fill out this survey, we'd both really appreciate it!

https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/bstations


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> I have a friend who is thinking about making a desk for PC enthusiasts/gamers and he needs some info for a business plan. Would you guys mind helping him out? If so, please fill out this survey, we'd both really appreciate it!
> https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/bstations


Ok, that was pretty painless - I contributed....


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Ok, that was pretty painless - I contributed....


+rep! Thanks!


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> I have a friend who is thinking about making a desk for PC enthusiasts/gamers and he needs some info for a business plan. Would you guys mind helping him out? If so, please fill out this survey, we'd both really appreciate it!
> https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/bstations


Well , that was fast .. Your friend must think very highly of Keanu Reeves


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> I have a friend who is thinking about making a desk for PC enthusiasts/gamers and he needs some info for a business plan. Would you guys mind helping him out? If so, please fill out this survey, we'd both really appreciate it!
> https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/bstations


Sure, why not?


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> Well , that was fast .. Your friend must think very highly of Keanu Reeves


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Sure, why not?


Thanks guys!


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> Well , that was fast .. Your friend must think very highly of Keanu Reeves


I was thinking the same thing when I got to that question. It was pretty entertaining to imagine the fight.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> I have a friend who is thinking about making a desk for PC enthusiasts/gamers and he needs some info for a business plan. Would you guys mind helping him out? If so, please fill out this survey, we'd both really appreciate it!
> https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/bstations


Finished it as well. Hard time between John and Neo and question 13 was good too lol.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I was thinking the same thing when I got to that question. It was pretty entertaining to imagine the fight.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Finished it as well. Hard time between John and Neo and question 13 was good too lol.


A little humor is good for everyone. :thumb: +rep guys!


----------



## bwsteg

Amazon now has in stock and is shipping the h100i gtx, for those interested..


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> I have a friend who is thinking about making a desk for PC enthusiasts/gamers and he needs some info for a business plan. Would you guys mind helping him out? If so, please fill out this survey, we'd both really appreciate it!
> https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/bstations


Done! This is interesting


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Hey guys.
This might of been answered and I missed it.

Do you need the rear mounting bracket on a X99 motherboard?
I'll be swapping my 4790k machine out (as the wife needs a Photoshop machine) and grabbing a 5930K with a Asus X99-Pro, I'm going to reuse my H110, I know I'll have to swap the pegs etc..

Thanks.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Hey guys.
> This might of been answered and I missed it.
> 
> Do you need the rear mounting bracket on a X99 motherboard?
> I'll be swapping my 4790k machine out (as the wife needs a Photoshop machine) and grabbing a 5930K with a Asus X99-Pro, I'm going to reuse my H110, I know I'll have to swap the pegs etc..
> 
> Thanks.


All you'll need to do is swap the screws and you'll be fine. I think the bag is labelled "g" for the proper screws needed, and that's all you'll have to do. It just mounts straight to the backplate of LGA 2011.


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> All you'll need to do is swap the screws and you'll be fine. I think the bag is labelled "g" for the proper screws needed, and that's all you'll have to do. It just mounts straight to the backplate of LGA 2011.


Cool thanks mate..
It's going to be my first ever "elite" build, so tad excited.








Only ever owned mainstream stuff...lol


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Cool thanks mate..
> It's going to be my first ever "elite" build, so tad excited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only ever owned mainstream stuff...lol


It's fun stuff. I have two x79 systems otherwise I would be going x99.


----------



## jorpe

Any chance the h110i gt will be coming into availability soon?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> I have a friend who is thinking about making a desk for PC enthusiasts/gamers and he needs some info for a business plan. Would you guys mind helping him out? If so, please fill out this survey, we'd both really appreciate it!
> https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/bstations


I've been modifying my own desk for years ...








Hope your friend is successful with his new business model and it comes to market, especially the modular concept / or customize your own, I'd seriously consider purchasing such









PS: he should have asked about variable arm VESA mounts along or instead of the old monitor shelf for height


----------



## ahnafakeef

Hi everyone!

I'm currently using a CM 212 EVO with two Corsair fans in push/pull. Would switching to the new Hydro H110i GT improve temps?

Thank you.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahnafakeef*
> 
> Hi everyone!
> 
> I'm currently using a CM 212 EVO with two Corsair fans in push/pull. Would switching to the new Hydro H110i GT improve temps?
> 
> Thank you.


Definitely! You'll notice a pretty good difference in temps switching to liquid cooling - even in the form of a CLC...


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahnafakeef*
> 
> Hi everyone!
> 
> I'm currently using a CM 212 EVO with two Corsair fans in push/pull. Would switching to the new Hydro H110i GT improve temps?
> 
> Thank you


Yes, it definitely will. Especially at load temps and especially if you are overclocked. Though how much it improves temperatures is soley based on your processor. For instance, a 4770k would see some improvement, but not as much as say a 8350.


----------



## ahnafakeef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Definitely! You'll notice a pretty good difference in temps switching to liquid cooling - even in the form of a CLC...


Thanks for the quick input.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Yes, it definitely will. Especially at load temps and especially if you are overclocked. Though how much it improves temperatures is soley based on your processor. For instance, a 4770k would see some improvement, but not as much as say a 8350.


Thanks for the quick input.

I have a 3770K at 4.4GHz @1.25v IIRC. I would like to push it to 4.7-4.8GHz which would require about 1.5v (given that 4.5 required 1.32v). Would it be able to handle that?

Thanks a lot.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahnafakeef*
> 
> Thanks for the quick input.
> Thanks for the quick input.
> 
> I have a 3770K at 4.4GHz @1.25v IIRC. I would like to push it to 4.7-4.8GHz which would require about 1.5v (given that 4.5 required 1.32v). Would it be able to handle that?
> 
> Thanks a lot.


I wouldn't push your CPU any higher than 4.5Ghz if it requires any more voltage than 1.32.


----------



## ahnafakeef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> I wouldn't push your CPU any higher than 4.5Ghz if it requires any more voltage than 1.32.


But I'm going to need every last bit of performance I can get should I choose to opt for a major GPU upgrade.

How do you suggest I properly utilize the new GPU setup without the extra CPU power? And why would you recommend against overclocking the CPU further?

Also, what's your opinion on delidding?

Thanks for the quick response.


----------



## Timstuff

I've got a 3770k, too. I can get it up to 4.5GHz under 1.2 volts, but at that voltage the temperatures under load are hell. Can't do it without reaching TJ Max. I keep it at 4.3 GHz for now, and even then I'm not super happy with the temps I get. I'm using a Corsair H80i, which is really not a big enough rad for an overclocked 3770k. Need of a bigger rad is why I'm moving from a Storm Scout 1 to a Vengeance C70.

The real reason you don't want to go over 1.35 volts on a 3770k is because at voltages higher than that, you are going to shorten the lifespan of your CPU. Over-volting your CPU beyond the recommended limit, even if you have a kickass cooling setup, can be the difference between a CPU that lasts you 6 years and a CPU that lasts 2 years.

And believe me, 4.5 GHz is all you will need for the next several years. GPUs are running circles around CPUs as far as advancements are going. Even a 4 GHz overclock is going to be well beyond the suggested specs for just about any programs and games for the next few years. It's going to be a long time before I ditch my 3770k, and when I do it will probably be for an LGA2011 upgrade so I can have more cores to render with in Maya. As long as your temps and voltage are good, a 3770k clocked at 4.5 GHz is still a pretty kickass processor.


----------



## ahnafakeef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timstuff*
> 
> I've got a 3770k, too. I can get it up to 4.5GHz under 1.2 volts, but at that voltage the temperatures under load are hell. Can't do it without reaching TJ Max. I keep it at 4.3 GHz for now, and even then I'm not super happy with the temps I get. I'm using a Corsair H80i, which is really not a big enough rad for an overclocked 3770k. Need of a bigger rad is why I'm moving from a Storm Scout 1 to a Vengeance C70.
> 
> The real reason you don't want to go over 1.35 volts on a 3770k is because at voltages higher than that, you are going to shorten the lifespan of your CPU. Over-volting your CPU beyond the recommended limit, even if you have a kickass cooling setup, can be the difference between a CPU that lasts you 6 years and a CPU that lasts 2 years.
> 
> And believe me, 4.5 GHz is all you will need for the next several years. GPUs are running circles around CPUs as far as advancements are going. Even a 4 GHz overclock is going to be well beyond the suggested specs for just about any programs and games for the next few years. It's going to be a long time before I ditch my 3770k, and when I do it will probably be for an LGA2011 upgrade so I can have more cores to render with in Maya. As long as your temps and voltage are good, a 3770k clocked at 4.5 GHz is still a pretty kickass processor.


Thanks a lot for the detailed reply. Much appreciated.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> I have a friend who is thinking about making a desk for PC enthusiasts/gamers and he needs some info for a business plan. Would you guys mind helping him out? If so, please fill out this survey, we'd both really appreciate it!
> https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/bstations


I did the survey.

I could not answer #14 properly. It should of just been check boxes.

These features lower the likeliness of me buying.
- Keyboard Tray
- Integrated Mousing Surface
- Desktop Shelf
- Sitting to standing (just adds extra cost for a feature that I would never use.)
- Integrated Laptop stand


----------



## Bard

The form at the beginning doesn't take HG10s into account.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> I did the survey.
> 
> I could not answer #14 properly. It should of just been check boxes.
> 
> These features lower the likeliness of me buying.
> - Keyboard Tray
> - Integrated Mousing Surface
> - Desktop Shelf
> - Sitting to standing (just adds extra cost for a feature that I would never use.)
> - Integrated Laptop stand


Thanks for the feedback!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bard*
> 
> The form at the beginning doesn't take HG10s into account.


I'll add a HG10 section later.


----------



## Bard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback!
> I'll add a HG10 section later.


Good <3 I've got two


----------



## Dawn of War

Any H100i GTX owners yet?


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jorpe*
> 
> Any chance the h110i gt will be coming into availability soon?


You guys should start seeing them in stores again within 3-4 weeks (hopefully sooner)


----------



## bwsteg

Just received the h100i gtx today. From what I remember, it seems as if this new unit is much lighter than the previous h100i. Also the radiator looks much cleaner and the braided hoses is a nice touch. Overall, its a beautiful unit...


----------



## jorpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> You guys should start seeing them in stores again within 3-4 weeks (hopefully sooner)


Thank you for the reply and letting me know!


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bwsteg*
> 
> Just received the h100i gtx today. From what I remember, it seems as if this new unit is much lighter than the previous h100i. Also the radiator looks much cleaner and the braided hoses is a nice touch. Overall, its a beautiful unit...


Nice! glad you like it. I personally like the new pump design, it's more recognizable imo.. in a good way








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jorpe*
> 
> Thank you for the reply and letting me know!


No problem at all


----------



## Bard

Do Corsair RMAs typically take a month? :\


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bard*
> 
> Do Corsair RMAs typically take a month? :\


Nope they don't. What unit are you having replaced? I'd suggest PMing @Corsair Joseph your ticket number to have him look into it.


----------



## Bard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Nope they don't. What unit are you having replaced? I'd suggest PMing @Corsair Joseph your ticket number to have him look into it.


I mean, it's probably due to stock. :| I just thought that Corsair had replacement products handy usually.
It was just a surprising amount of time, is all, I'm curious!


----------



## Corsair Joseph

You can post your ticket # and I can take a look and find out why its taking too long.

You're right, we usually have stock ready to go for RMAs, but if the market demand on the product is high, we then have to allocate units to fill in orders.

Which cooler is it? if you don't mind me asking.


----------



## Bard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> You can post your ticket # and I can take a look and find out why its taking too long.
> 
> You're right, we usually have stock ready to go for RMAs, but if the market demand on the product is high, we then have to allocate units to fill in orders.
> 
> Which cooler is it? if you don't mind me asking.


Oh, Mr. Joseph, of course I don't mind your asking.








I sent in an H100, but as it's discontinued, they offered an H100i. It's most likely due to high demand; it seems to be Corsair's most popular cooler.

Edit: Ticket is 6591572


----------



## NorKris

With the new Corsair HG10 out on the market for us that love puting AIO on graphics cards.. the new H100i GTX and H80i GT seems like stupid products, i mean the tubes makes it impossible to fit a SLI config in ur system using corsairs new coolers on both cards :S and with the old products (H100, H100i, H80i, H60) disappearing from the marked...? corsair hallo?


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Thanks Bard. Indeed, it is a very in demand cooler.

So I went and looked at your ticket and looks like the status is "Processing" meaning its shipping out soon. I've asked customer service to contact you via ticket and provide you a more accurate date.


----------



## Bard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Thanks Bard. Indeed, it is a very in demand cooler.
> 
> So I went and looked at your ticket and looks like the status is "Processing" meaning its shipping out soon. I've asked customer service to contact you via ticket and provide you a more accurate date.


Thank you so much! Corsair Hydro for life!


----------



## MikeSp

The H105 does not seem to get any credit here -- seems to do a great job -- for an AIO, what is wrong with the H105?


----------



## Bard

There's nothing wrong with the H105; I really like it. I think that it's not as popular for two reasons. 1: The H100i is slightly cheaper, and 2. It's thicker, and thus harder to fit in a case. If attached to a CPU, mounting in the top slot can be a lot tougher due to RAM clearance.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeSp*
> 
> The H105 does not seem to get any credit here -- seems to do a great job -- for an AIO, what is wrong with the H105?


Nothing wrong with it at all. Just for my purposes, it's not a viable option. Plus the H100i give me more control over the actual unit. I took the time to make good fan curves for my fans, and have seen good temps ever since....


----------



## ahnafakeef

Can I use a Corsair H110i GT in my 600T case with two GPUs? I mean, does the case have enough accommodation for all the mentioned components?


----------



## MerkageTurk

Where can I get the corsair h110 gt?

UK please


----------



## Timstuff

Does Corsair's website ship to the UK? If so I'd suggest you start with them.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahnafakeef*
> 
> Can I use a Corsair H110i GT in my 600T case with two GPUs? I mean, does the case have enough accommodation for all the mentioned components?


Looks like the 600T accepts 240mm natively, and 360mm radiators through cutting the sheet metal. I'm sure with long screws you could maybe manage something but natively, no it won't work up top.


----------



## ahnafakeef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Looks like the 600T accepts 240mm natively, and 360mm radiators through cutting the sheet metal. I'm sure with long screws you could maybe manage something but natively, no it won't work up top.


Okay. Thank you.


----------



## shanker

Will the 100 GTX drive four Phanteks 120mm PWM fans with two Y adapters or should I run them off a header?


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanker*
> 
> Will the 100 GTX drive four Phanteks 120mm PWM fans with two Y adapters or should I run them off a header?


That should work just fine.


----------



## MerkageTurk

Out of stock everywhere

Corsair rep help me


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> I have a friend who is thinking about making a desk for PC enthusiasts/gamers and he needs some info for a business plan. Would you guys mind helping him out? If so, please fill out this survey, we'd both really appreciate it!
> https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/bstations


Did the survey. Tell your friend I would love a desk with height adjustments on the feet, and on the keyboard tray so keyboards with small displays attached can still be used, and a width adjustment or just a tray wide enough for keyboard and mouse would also be nice. I actually modified my current desk and added a mouse tray, but I can't lower my keyboard tray to accommodate my keyboard or it will start hitting my knees, so I can't push my keyboard tray in when it's not being used..
I'm tired of purchasing nice gaming equipment only to find it won't fit the tray.
As for monitor support, that's a really hard one. I was using two 27" monitors, but I sold them and purchased this:



After gaming on that, I'll never go back to a 16 x 9 monitor again.

It's going to be hard for your buddy to accommodate everyone from using just one monitor up to three or more for some people. It will be interesting to see what he comes up with.

And now for something completely different:

My H100 is about three years old now, and still going strong. I just sold an i5 2500K system with an older H50 in it that was still working as well as the day I purchased it.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Where can I get the corsair h110 gt?
> 
> UK please


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerkageTurk*
> 
> Out of stock everywhere
> 
> Corsair rep help me


I wish I could do something about this.. They are currently on hold (worldwide) and will remain so for the next couple weeks. We will resume shipment as soon that all inventory checks out fine.

You should be able to pre-order them on some stores in the UK, http://www.scan.co.uk/products/corsair-hydro-series-h110i-gt-high-performance-cpu-cooler-with-280mm-radiator-for-intel-amd-cpus.


----------



## Neocoolzero

Hello there,looking to buy a H110I GT but will have to mount it on a old case till i get my phantom 820,can anyone tell me the exact measurements for the radiator to see if i can fit it after moding my old case?
Seen a few measurements on reviews,but all slightly diferent :/


----------



## EaglePC

well some post back I loved my H110GT I returned it do to corsair link rather have no link so I purchases the good old H105.

btw Mergatroid that monitor is it the LG one hate to give up my ASUS 3D 27" monitor ?


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EaglePC*
> 
> well some post back I loved my H110GT I returned it do to corsair link rather have no link so I purchases the good old H105.
> 
> btw Mergatroid that monitor is it the LG one hate to give up my ASUS 3D 27" monitor ?


Has the Corsair Link caused you issues or you simply dislike it?
IMO, you should have purchased the good ol' H110.


----------



## jorpe

My 6 month old H110 has started making gurgling/swooshing noises. They're inconsistent and dont appear to be associated with me powering up the system. Along with the liquid noises I've noticed what Im guessing are temperature spikes. The fans spin up for a few seconds then go back to (nearly) silent. Think the pump might be on its way out? It was pretty much plug n play when I got it and havent changed much or moved the computer more than a foot or two to the side since I build it.


----------



## generalkayoss

I have a fairly new H110 and it makes an occasional gurgle. Are you seeing any difference in temperatures?


----------



## solarin006

So a question regarding the H100i GTX and the H105, can anyone confirm that neither of these designs have a dedicated psu power connection and are only driven off of the motherboard header? What kind of current will the pump pull at full power? I'm looking at setting up a push/pull setup and don't want to overload a fan header with 4 fans and a pump all drawing power.


----------



## kolo7127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solarin006*
> 
> So a question regarding the H100i GTX and the H105, can anyone confirm that neither of these designs have a dedicated psu power connection and are only driven off of the motherboard header? What kind of current will the pump pull at full power? I'm looking at setting up a push/pull setup and don't want to overload a fan header with 4 fans and a pump all drawing power.


I can confirm the H105 does not have a dedicated PSU connector, nor the H80 nor H75. All are driven from a fan header. Do you have more than 1 fan header available? Theres always molex to 3 pin fan adapters too. On my evga boards Ive been successfully able to run 4 120mm fans off of one header using a splitter. Both corsair SP120's and Scythe Glide Stream 120's. You probably dont want your pump and fans on the same header anyway. The pump should always run at full speed, fans can be regulated via pwm or voltage supplied by a fan header.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jorpe*
> 
> My 6 month old H110 has started making gurgling/swooshing noises. They're inconsistent and dont appear to be associated with me powering up the system. Along with the liquid noises I've noticed what Im guessing are temperature spikes. The fans spin up for a few seconds then go back to (nearly) silent. Think the pump might be on its way out? It was pretty much plug n play when I got it and havent changed much or moved the computer more than a foot or two to the side since I build it.


Gurgling most of the time is fine, unless it is constant. That means that it wasn't completely filled and there is too big of an air pocket. The temp differences you are seeing are likely a result of the air bubble being in the CPU block. I would try tilting your system back and forth to try to get the air bubble in the radiator where it can't really affect anything.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *generalkayoss*
> 
> I have a fairly new H110 and it makes an occasional gurgle. Are you seeing any difference in temperatures?


An occasional gurgle is fine. My h110 occasionally did it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solarin006*
> 
> So a question regarding the H100i GTX and the H105, can anyone confirm that neither of these designs have a dedicated psu power connection and are only driven off of the motherboard header? What kind of current will the pump pull at full power? I'm looking at setting up a push/pull setup and don't want to overload a fan header with 4 fans and a pump all drawing power.


The H100i GTX will have a SATA connectiron as it will also be able to control the fans via the Corsair link software and the integrated fan hub.

I'm not positive on the H105, but I do believe that is just uses a fan header for power to the pump.

If you're going to go with the H105, then you'lll need to use separate fan headers for the fans and for the pump as the pump cannot be controlled. It needs to stay at 12v at all times.


----------



## MerkageTurk

Also if you fellas have Asus q fan control, that may be the reason for fans spinning higher and lower or pump becoming louder


----------



## EaglePC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Has the Corsair Link caused you issues or you simply dislike it?
> IMO, you should have purchased the good ol' H110.


dislike and just like simple things in life bios fan control does it all


----------



## CorsairGeorge

H80i GT and H100i GTX use the 4-pin motherboard header for pump power. They are more than capable of powering the pump and four fans, provided those four fans are not like 3000 RPM Deltas or something.


----------



## shanker

Running four Phanteks PWMs as well. I had to sacrifice a ram slot for Ilink. do I even need it though? I could always rotate the block I guess.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanker*
> 
> 
> 
> Running four Phanteks PWMs as well. I had to sacrifice a ram slot for Ilink. do I even need it though? I could always rotate the block I guess.


Looks like you could just rotate the block 90 degrees (so the tubes are at the top), and you should be good.


----------



## Ceadderman

With UEFI Corsair Link seems to be more miss than a hit. It's not a bad piece of software, but it's uneccessary when you can control your fans from the UEFI.









~Ceadder


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kolo7127*
> 
> I can confirm the H105 does not have a dedicated PSU connector, nor the H80 nor H75. All are driven from a fan header.


H105 and H75 are correct, except for the H80 cooler. Like the H100, they are using 4 pin molex that connects to your PSU.


----------



## reset1101

Hey, hope you can help me. Does anyone know how many watts the H100i pump consumes? I think somebody in this forum made a test a while ago and it was 2,2w, but I cant find anything official.

Thanks a lot.


----------



## MTup

Hey all. I have the H100i and absolutely love it. Here is a bit of information that may interest some of you. My radiator fit beautifully in the ceiling of my Rosewill Blackhawk case. The stock fans would not though. The ram and vrm heatsink were too up too high in the case. So thinking about thin fans I ordered the rosewill ultra thins to replace the stocks. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835200107 I installed these as intake taking fresh air in and took the stock Corsairs and put 1 in the rear exhaust and 1 in the side blowing on the NB and whatever else it will pass by. I also put another this Rosewill on the other side for exhaust behind my cpu. So far these fans have been fantastic. Not sure how long they will last but at least their working now for about a month and I don't see any problems with temperatures yet. I'm at 4.5GHz with my FX-8350 and still learning overclocking hence joining this site for the great information that is brought here. Here are the stats with the ultra thin fans.

AMBIENT: 22ºC (72ºF in the house)
IDLE: 14ºC (have no idea why HWmonitor says this but it does everytime)
LOAD: 54º (Prime95 for 1 hour)
VOLTAGE: 1.452 (under 100% load)(set at 1.34375 in bios(Gigabyte 970-UD3P))
LLC : Extreme (only way I can run this so far)

One other thing with the case I have. I had to move the radiator out toward the window side more for the ultras to fit making it impossible for all the screws to go into the radiator. All 4 corners and 2 middle screws 1 needing a washer and that was it.

[I
MG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2396408/width/350/height/700[/IMG]


----------



## PerfectTekniq

I'll join in. I have no tests yet. I recently finished the main build. I still have a few smaller things to do.


----------



## MTup

Ahhh I love that case Tekniq. I built my wife's with that one and didn't get it for my latest build because of making sure I can water cool. I can water cool with my case but had to make invisible mods.

Edit: I know better what to look for now.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Since overclocking my 2700k to 4.5ghz the stock Corsair fans have gotten too loud. I'm thinking of swapping them out for these COUGAR CF-V12HP.

What do you think? Are they good?


----------



## MTup

Very unique design. I'd give them a try. Those valley's on the blades may push more air.


----------



## PerfectTekniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> Ahhh I love that case Tekniq. I built my wife's with that one and didn't get it for my latest build because of making sure I can water cool. I can water cool with my case but had to make invisible mods.
> 
> Edit: I know better what to look for now.


I bought the H100i knowing it wouldn't fit. It gave me the jump to take the case apart and paint it as well as other miner things. I love the case also.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Well, I'll start with just a bit of a venting and headsup to anyone who might be wanting to purchase a replacement fan for their H80i/H100i, don't buy it on Amazon third party seller Canyon River Group.

I've been adding various fans to use for the the radiator fan airflow testing I'm currently starting doing and wanted to add some of Corsair's AIO fans to the mix. I only went with ordering one listed on Amazon after trying repeatedly to order H100i and H110 replacement fans from shop.corsair.com, where I have made purchases before, but there's apparently no way to order from there to the US any more. Whether I try to do Corsair's checkout or Paypal checkout it won't let me get past the "please select country' dropdown where there is no option any more for the US even though I'm logged in to my account and it's giving me USD pricing and US shipping options which is weird:










Sooo, after giving up trying to purchase through Corsair's site, here's what I bought through Amazon:



Sure looks like an H100i fan to me, but instead this is what I got:



The Corsair A1225L12S-2 1300rpm 3-pin fan I received is obviously not what I ordered. So, I contacted the seller and this was my message and his response:
Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Product Name: Corsair SP120L 120mm PWM Fan
> 
> "I ordered a Corsair SP120L 2700 RPM PWM (4-pin) Fan with 7 wide blades like the one pictured on the item sales page. I received instead a Corsair A1225L12S-2 which is a 1300rpm voltage control (3-pin) fan with 9 narrow blades. Unlike the the SP120L, this is a low-speed, low-static-pressure fan without PWM speed control. Here are links to pictures of the fan I received front and back: http://i.imgur.com/XFT68hb.jpg http://i.imgur.com/2p2hbex.jpg I'm sorry, but I have no use for this type fan." ---- Best regards, Amazon.com Buyer - End
> 
> 
> 
> The item you received is the exact item you ordered. We left you a message on your voice mail a minute ago. You may return it if it does not fit YOUR MACHINE, but the item is not Defective, Damaged or WRONG. Best Regards, James for the CANYON RIVER GROUP ---
Click to expand...

Wow. Just. Wow. Trying now to see if this seller will accept the refund/return request though Amazon, but I suspect he won't, especially after listening to the extremely rude phone message he left me. Wow.

Guess I'll be ordering the fan from PPCs instead.

While I'm on that thought, does anyone know anywhere to purchase fans for the H110i GT? Google fails me, and I don't even see them listed on Corsair's site.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, I'll start with just a bit of a venting and headsup to anyone who might be wanting to purchase a replacement fan for their H80i/H100i, don't buy it on Amazon third party seller Canyon River Group.
> 
> I've been adding various fans to use for the the radiator fan airflow testing I'm currently starting doing and wanted to add some of Corsair's AIO fans to the mix. I only went with ordering one listed on Amazon after trying repeatedly to order H100i and H110 replacement fans from shop.corsair.com, where I have made purchases before, but there's apparently no way to order from there to the US any more. Whether I try to do Corsair's checkout or Paypal checkout it won't let me get past the "please select country' dropdown where there is no option any more for the US even though I'm logged in to my account and it's giving me USD pricing and US shipping options which is weird:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sooo, after giving up trying to purchase through Corsair's site, here's what I bought through Amazon:
> 
> 
> 
> Sure looks like an H100i fan to me, but instead this is what I got:
> 
> 
> 
> The Corsair A1225L12S-2 1300rpm 3-pin fan I received is obviously not what I ordered. So, I contacted the seller and this was my message and his response:
> Wow. Just. Wow. Trying now to see if this seller will accept the refund/return request though Amazon, but I suspect he won't, especially after listening to the extremely rude phone message he left me. Wow.
> 
> Guess I'll be ordering the fan from PPCs instead.
> 
> While I'm on that thought, does anyone know anywhere to purchase fans for the H110i GT? Google fails me, and I don't even see them listed on Corsair's site.


Why not contact Corsair Joseph and see if he can get you some fans? I'm sure that'd be much easier.


----------



## Ceadderman

Simply put... *WOW*









I won't be buying anything via Amazon. That's bait an switch eBay style.









~Ceadder


----------



## dusters16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Simply put... *WOW*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I won't be buying anything via Amazon. That's bait an switch eBay style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


more like, watch out for THIRD PARTY resellers, just like on ebay. Amazon only provided a place to sell the item. if that reseller well not accept the mistake, then the buyer needs to contact Amazon, who will investigate and possibly suspend or revoke that seller on their site. a business owner would rather pay a few extra dollars to correct a small mistake, rather than lose an entire market. I would buy through Amazon directly (sold and ship) as much as possible. I have shopped on ebay and craigslist enough to not want to deal with returning something. it sucks that some third party sellers either don't know or don't care about what they sell exactly, and just hope that all their buyers are dumb, ignorant people, looking to save a couple bucks.

I also just went to corsair's website, and I am only getting two countries, US and Canada. from the drop down list, it looks international, maybe there was a proxy enabled?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dusters16*
> 
> more like, watch out for THIRD PARTY resellers, just like on ebay. Amazon only provided a place to sell the item. if that reseller well not accept the mistake, then the buyer needs to contact Amazon, who will investigate and possibly suspend or revoke that seller on their site. a business owner would rather pay a few extra dollars to correct a small mistake, rather than lose an entire market. I would buy through Amazon directly (sold and ship) as much as possible. I have shopped on ebay and craigslist enough to not want to deal with returning something. it sucks that some third party sellers either don't know or don't care about what they sell exactly, and just hope that all their buyers are dumb, ignorant people, looking to save a couple bucks.
> 
> *I also just went to corsair's website, and I am only getting two countries, US and Canada. from the drop down list, it looks international, maybe there was a proxy enabled?*


Nope, I have never used a proxy. What site are you on? Does Corsair have a separate US website?
When I go to http://www.corsair.com it loads as http://www.corsair.com/en then when I click on shop it's http://www.corsair.com/en/shop
When I login to my account there and look at My Account page it loads as https://shop.corsair.com/en/customer/account/
There it shows my address & ph number correct (incl country 'United States') and has my 'Last Ordered Items' & 'Recent Orders' shown, but when I put anything in the cart it only gives me these options and will not let me continue past it so I can finish placing the order.



Really weird.

- - - - - - -
Edit:
Come to think of it, I wonder if it has anything to do with this. A little over a week ago, after having not been on the Corsair site since ... a long time ago ... I get a weird series of emails from the Corsair Webstore a day apart from each other:





The last email tells me:
Quote:


> Please rest assured that no further action is needed to be taken by you as your email subscription has been successfully updated to the initial status. To verify your subscription status, please login into your account by clicking on the My Account link (https://shop.corsair.com/us/customer/account/login). Under My Account left navigation, please click on the Newsletter Subscriptions link, verify your subscription preference and click save upon completion.


I went to that link as soon as I got that email and got this:



Oddly enough, when I click that same link after posting it here on OCN it does work and take me to my account dashboard, but when I click on it in the email (even though it displays that url I posted here it actually has a different corsair.com redirect url coded into it that I can see at the bottom of my browser by hovering over it) then it takes me to the 'page not found' page.

lol, IDK whether that had anything to do with with the issues I'm now having just trying to place an order with them, but that came to mind. I guess maybe I should take it all as a hint that apparently Corsair just doesn't want my business any more.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Simply put... *WOW*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I won't be buying anything via Amazon. That's bait an switch eBay style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Aye that's a bit over an overstatement. It's simply a 3rd party reseller trying to make a buck through Amazon's system. If it's "shipped and sold by Amazon" or a very reputable 3rd party you'll be ok. As Duster has said.

I've made 227 orders through Amazon since Oct' 2010 and never had one shipment be the wrong product


----------



## dusters16

just for shows:

http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-h80i-h100i-sp120l-2700-rpm-replacement-fan


----------



## turbo33

Need to add h105 to the front page


----------



## Arizonian

I was going with GTX line but found it out of stock. I guess it didn't matter since the H110i would not have fit. Due to 450D space limitations I went with H100i. Have a H100 in my second rig so I was confident on the H100i. Does a great job for me with a moderate 4.6 GHz over clock of my 4790K.



Spoiler: H1001







One thing that did work out well for now is the case fans of the Corsair 450D matched the fans of the H100i perfectly. No need for any extra fans in build for now and it helped putting what I would have spent on case fans toward other upgraded components instead.


----------



## ltkhoi90

Corsair H110i GT is out of stock everywhere T_T


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbo33*
> 
> Need to add h105 to the front page


I'll add it in a few. :thumb:


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ltkhoi90*
> 
> Corsair H110i GT is out of stock everywhere T_T


We have called them back, http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showpost.php?p=761249&postcount=1


----------



## MikeSp

Agree
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbo33*
> 
> Need to add h105 to the front page


I agree


----------



## jameyscott

Added the H105. I've been meaning to add a lot more content for each cooler. The problem is... The format I had to change the OP to in order to actually embed the spreadsheet made everything really different and it took me literally 30 minutes to get the H105 and the extra spoiler added.


----------



## MikeSp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Added the H105. I've been meaning to add a lot more content for each cooler. The problem is... The format I had to change the OP to in order to actually embed the spreadsheet made everything really different and it took me literally 30 minutes to get the H105 and the extra spoiler added.


Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!! Much appreciated!


----------



## jameyscott

You're very welcome. Once I figure out how to not take thirty minutes to add a few things, I definitely plan on adding a lot more.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Nope, I have never used a proxy. What site are you on? Does Corsair have a separate US website?
> *When I go to http://www.corsair.com it loads as http://www.corsair.com/en* then when I click on shop it's http://www.corsair.com/en/shop


When I click on your link, my browser goes to http://www.corsair.com/en*-us*, so I think that's the difference there. Maybe try adding the "-us" to the end of the URL and see if that makes any difference.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Nope, I have never used a proxy. What site are you on? Does Corsair have a separate US website?
> *When I go to http://www.corsair.com it loads as http://www.corsair.com/en* then when I click on shop it's http://www.corsair.com/en/shop
> 
> 
> 
> When I click on your link, my browser goes to http://www.corsair.com/en*-us*, so I think that's the difference there. Maybe try adding the "-us" to the end of the URL and see if that makes any difference.
Click to expand...

Now we may be getting closer. That's why I asked if there was a separate US domain or something I wasn't getting.

Still however, when I get to the webshop just as soon as I click on any of the fans I wanted to purchase when I get to my cart it keeps dropping the -us from the domain and the United States option isn't there for me, just the list of mostly European countries I was getting. It won't let me keep that -us on there and keeps reverting to just www.corsair.com/en. I've cleared all cache / cookies and restarted and even tried from other computers in my house. All i can think of is for whatever reason Corsair's site seems to see my IP as not being in the US, but I have no idea why that would be. It doesn't matter what whois or IP lookup site I use (ex: who.is, whatismyip.com, iplocation.net, whatsmyip.org, etc) they all show the exact same thing with me as being right where I'm at almost right smack dab in the middle of the USA.

I've ordered from Corsair's webshop before without any issues. It's really weird.

In their email to me which I posted before it said "_If you have any further questions or comments regarding this matter, please feel free to email us at webstoreteam[AT]corsair[dot]com_" which I did pointing out their link in the email they sent sends me to a 404 page and I also asked about this issue with not being able to order from the webshop any more and that was more than 3 days ago now. I've not gotten a reply to it yet though.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Now we may be getting closer. That's why I asked if there was a separate US domain or something I wasn't getting.
> 
> Still however, when I get to the webshop just as soon as I click on any of the fans I wanted to purchase when I get to my cart it keeps dropping the -us from the domain and the United States option isn't there for me, just the list of mostly European countries I was getting. It won't let me keep that -us on there and keeps reverting to just www.corsair.com/en. I've cleared all cache / cookies and restarted and even tried from other computers in my house. All i can think of is for whatever reason Corsair's site seems to see my IP as not being in the US, but I have no idea why that would be. It doesn't matter what whois or IP lookup site I use (ex: who.is, whatismyip.com, iplocation.net, whatsmyip.org, etc) they all show the exact same thing with me as being right where I'm at almost right smack dab in the middle of the USA.
> 
> I've ordered from Corsair's webshop before without any issues. It's really weird.
> 
> In their email to me which I posted before it said "_If you have any further questions or comments regarding this matter, please feel free to email us at webstoreteam[AT]corsair[dot]com_" which I did asking about this issue with not being able to order from the webshop more than 3 days ago now. I've seen no reply to it yet though.


That's a really strange issue. I'm assuming you've tried different browsers? Maybe some strange setting is screwing things up for you....


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I won't use a different browser for nothing. If your site / business doesn't work with Firefox then forget it. Period. No exceptions. Ever. That said, I've yet to have ever encountered another site that I have issues with my choice of browser or with anything like this at all.

However, as I said, I am getting the exact same issue from other computers in the house, even the wife and kid's tablets. Not sure what 'setting' that could possibly be. I really think the problem has to be on Corsair's end. It looks to me that, unlike other sites that aren't country-specific or let users pick their country it seems to be automatically routing users to whatever country(s) it thinks you are visiting their site from, and for whatever reason it thinks I'm not in the US. Their Webshop dropdown always defaults to 'Netherlands' when I get to checkout if that matters.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I won't use a different browser for nothing. If your site / business doesn't work with Firefox then forget it. Period. No exceptions. Ever. That said, I've yet to have ever encountered another site that I have issues with my choice of browser or with anything like this at all.
> 
> However, as I said, I am getting the exact same issue from other computers in the house, even the wife and kid's tablets. Not sure what 'setting' that could possibly be. I really think the problem has to be on Corsair's end. It looks to me that, unlike other sites that aren't country-specific or let users pick their country it seems to be automatically routing users to whatever country(s) it thinks you are visiting their site from, and for whatever reason it thinks I'm not in the US. Their Webshop dropdown always defaults to 'Netherlands' when I get to checkout if that matters.


For the sake of troubleshooting, trying a different browser will help let you know if its a setting within your current browser or if its something else. I say that it might be a setting on your end because I can use the link that you posted and it takes me to the US version. That fact alone makes me lean more towards the cause being on your end rather than theirs - the browser is a good first step towards getting to the bottom of that issue.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Not even for ten thousand dollars AND a new computer built to whatever spec I want would I install another browser on any machine I own. Nothing matters to me that much. Yeah, I'm like that.

edit: OK, fiddling around a bit there I managed to get the site to work all the way through to checkout. I hadn't noticed it before but at the bottom of the www.corsair.com/en page it starts me off on there actually is a 'select your country' dropdown. Clicking that changes me to the -us site, and then after logging in it finally let me go to shop > parts and accessories > cpu coolers > select item > cart , where finally the country dropdown options are US and Canada > and got all the way through to checkout page.

Still seems odd I have to go that route when others report it routes them to the -us domain automatically, and even if / when it does leave me on what I see now is their 'global - english' - page that then it doesn't include US or Canada in the list of options. That seems like an oversight on Corsair's part in how the site is set up.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> Since overclocking my 2700k to 4.5ghz the stock Corsair fans have gotten too loud. I'm thinking of swapping them out for these COUGAR CF-V12HP.
> 
> What do you think? Are they good?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> Very unique design. I'd give them a try. Those valley's on the blades may push more air.


Got them today and installed.





These fan are super quiet and still outperform the H80i fans. . at full load my max temps with the H80i fans were 62c. The Cougars are 58c. Idle temps drop from 31c to 24c!! This tells me the fans are blowing more air than the H80i fans at lower speeds.

These fans are so quiet I had to check if they were working during the 3dmark bench test lol


----------



## Djmatrix32

Got some high powered fans for my H80I last night went to go put them in and the screw holes stripped. So I sent it in for RMA so we will see how this goes.....wrapped in 20ft of bubble wrap.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> Since overclocking my 2700k to 4.5ghz the stock Corsair fans have gotten too loud. I'm thinking of swapping them out for these COUGAR CF-V12HP.
> 
> What do you think? Are they good?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> Very unique design. I'd give them a try. Those valley's on the blades may push more air.


Got them today and installed.





These fan are super quiet and still outperform the H80i fans. . at full load my max temps with the H80i fans were 62c. The Cougars are 58c. Idle temps drop from 31c to 24c!! This tells me the fans are blowing more air than the H80i fans at lower speeds.

These fans are so quiet I had to check if they were working during the 3dmark bench test lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djmatrix32*
> 
> Got some high powered fans for my H80I last night went to go put them in and the screw holes stripped. So I sent it in for RMA so we will see how this goes.....wrapped in 20ft of bubble wrap.


I snug tight mine.. I knew they were easy to strip


----------



## Djmatrix32

[quote name="ToxicAdam" url="/t/612436/officia
I snug tight mine.. I knew they were easy to strip[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> I snug tight mine.. I knew they were easy to strip


I didn't even tighten them all the way and they stripped. I hope Corsair RMA is smooth as butter. Using a FX-8320 Stock fan on my I5 until the RMA is over.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> Very unique design. I'd give them a try. Those valley's on the blades may push more air.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> I snug tight mine.. I knew they were easy to strip


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djmatrix32*
> 
> I didn't even tighten them all the way and they stripped. I hope Corsair RMA is smooth as butter. Using a FX-8320 Stock fan on my I5 until the RMA is over.


Are you saying every whole strip?! Two screws horizontally would be enough really.

It sounds like you may have cross-thread all of them.


----------



## Djmatrix32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> Are you saying every whole strip?! Two screws horizontally would be enough really.
> 
> It sounds like you may have cross-thread all of them.


No idea what happened looked it they all went in straight but they wouldn't tighten. 3/4 holes aren't grabbing screws.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djmatrix32*
> 
> No idea what happened looked it they all went in straight but they wouldn't tighten. 3/4 holes aren't grabbing screws.


I took the washers off mine to give me that extra length.


----------



## Djmatrix32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> I took the washers off mine to give me that extra length.


Did that as well still no luck.


----------



## turbo33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Added the H105. I've been meaning to add a lot more content for each cooler. The problem is... The format I had to change the OP to in order to actually embed the spreadsheet made everything really different and it took me literally 30 minutes to get the H105 and the extra spoiler added.


Thank you


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djmatrix32*
> 
> Got some high powered fans for my H80I last night went to go put them in and the screw holes stripped. So I sent it in for RMA so we will see how this goes.....wrapped in 20ft of bubble wrap.


You are talking about the radiator screw holes right? Post your ticket # and I'll see what I can do to speed up your RMA process.


----------



## Djmatrix32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> You are talking about the radiator screw holes right? Post your ticket # and I'll see what I can do to speed up your RMA process.


Yes the Radiator screw holes Ticket # 6602810. I also wrapped it in a crap load of bubble wrap to make sure it's safe in transit.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Alright, thanks. I've just added a comment in your ticket. We'll make sure to send out the replacement right away as soon that we get that faulty unit.


----------



## Djmatrix32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Alright, thanks. I've just added a comment in your ticket. We'll make sure to send out the replacement right away as soon that we get that faulty unit.


Thanks


----------



## Mergatroid

www.corsair.com
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EaglePC*
> 
> well some post back I loved my H110GT I returned it do to corsair link rather have no link so I purchases the good old H105.
> 
> btw Mergatroid that monitor is it the LG one hate to give up my ASUS 3D 27" monitor ?


Yes, this is the LG 34" Ultra Wide screen. As far as I know they have a few different models, one is 3440 x 1440 (34UM94), two others are curved 34" at 3440 x 1440, and the one I have is 34" 2560 x 1080. The height of the 34" models is the same as a 16 x 9 27" monitor, so this is like having an ultrawide 27". I got the lower resolution so I would be sure not to have any frame rate issues since I don't feel like blowing a load on video cards again.

Just FYI, I gave up a 27" Samsung S27A950D, which is a 120Hz, 3D monitor. I do miss the 120Hz, but out of the two features, I would take the ultra wide screen over the 120Hz (although I wish I could have both).

After gaming on the ultra-wide, I just couldn't go back to a 16 x 9 again.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, I'll start with just a bit of a venting and headsup to anyone who might be wanting to purchase a replacement fan for their H80i/H100i, don't buy it on Amazon third party seller Canyon River Group.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I've been adding various fans to use for the the radiator fan airflow testing I'm currently starting doing and wanted to add some of Corsair's AIO fans to the mix. I only went with ordering one listed on Amazon after trying repeatedly to order H100i and H110 replacement fans from shop.corsair.com, where I have made purchases before, but there's apparently no way to order from there to the US any more. Whether I try to do Corsair's checkout or Paypal checkout it won't let me get past the "please select country' dropdown where there is no option any more for the US even though I'm logged in to my account and it's giving me USD pricing and US shipping options which is weird:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sooo, after giving up trying to purchase through Corsair's site, here's what I bought through Amazon:
> 
> 
> 
> Sure looks like an H100i fan to me, but instead this is what I got:
> 
> 
> 
> The Corsair A1225L12S-2 1300rpm 3-pin fan I received is obviously not what I ordered. So, I contacted the seller and this was my message and his response:
> Wow. Just. Wow. Trying now to see if this seller will accept the refund/return request though Amazon, but I suspect he won't, especially after listening to the extremely rude phone message he left me. Wow.
> 
> Guess I'll be ordering the fan from PPCs instead.
> 
> While I'm on that thought, does anyone know anywhere to purchase fans for the H110i GT? Google fails me, and I don't even see them listed on Corsair's site.


You just have to contact Amazon support, and show them the link you ordered from with the correct model number, and then show them the package you received with the wrong model number, and they will take care of it from that point. If the seller is bait and switching, Amazon will take care of everything. I have only ever had two problems with things I have ordered on Amazon, and both times they bent over backwards to help me out.


----------



## Djmatrix32

Corsair got my RMA this morning....how long does it take them to process it and send out a replacement?


----------



## MTup

Curiosity got the best of me after I posted my PC with ultra thin fans for my H100i and had decent temperatures with pull configuration. Yesterday I brought my rig to the dining room table to figure out how I was going to use the corsair fans pushing out with my Rosewill Blackhawk. This case kept me from using them because my mb was too high and the corsairs would not even come close to fitting due to the ram and vrm heatsink.. This was pretty major but it came out great and my temperatures dropped from last weekends 50ºC to 38ºC under load for 10 min in prime95 and my FX-8350 at 4.5GHz. I'll run prime longer at another time which I'm sure will be good to go because after about 2 min it gets to 37 and stays there for the other 8 min.

I do want to say that I appreciate all the information I have received from this site. The Corsair water cooling is amazing to me. So far I can overclock to 4.7GHz stable in prime and IBT and have low temps at the same time. I'll have to get a little more advice from you guys here to go further though.

Anyone using the Rosewill line of cases I can tell you that it is major to install your 240mm radiator.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



[/

SPOILER]


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djmatrix32*
> 
> Corsair got my RMA this morning....how long does it take them to process it and send out a replacement?


Usually within the next 24-48 hrs if they have the replacement in stock.

I looked at your ticket, looks like your replacement is schedule to be delivered on the 1st of April.


----------



## Bonjovi

Hello guys

Some one Know anything/something about Corsair H110I GT ? When its will add in stok ! i want to buy it deaaaaaaaam


----------



## Djmatrix32

Got my RMA back! Brand NEW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! SO HAPPY!!!!!!!!!!!!......now I have twice the mounting hardware I should have kept my fans


----------



## bwsteg

I just finished building my 2nd setup using the h100i gtx and the pump is making a buzzing/grinding sound (not extremely loud but I can hear it)

Is this normal?


----------



## deathizem

no it is not normal I have seen this before and it was a small piece of plastic that came off the inside of one of the tubes if it new RMA it if not it is easy to fix


----------



## deathizem

this is a picture of one that I had to take apart for the same reason I have added new clamps sense the pick was taken I am using compression clamps now. getting the whole thing apart is easy clean out the rad and pull the pump all apart you will find a little plastic in it clean it up put back together


----------



## bwsteg

I see, but I have the brand new 100i gtx unit. That's unacceptable how these new units have this issue. Corsair should step up to the plate and do something for its consumers facing this issue..I already sent a PM to a Corsair employee, waiting to hear back...


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathizem*
> 
> this is a picture of one that I had to take apart for the same reason I have added new clamps sense the pick was taken I am using compression clamps now. getting the whole thing apart is easy clean out the rad and pull the pump all apart you will find a little plastic in it clean it up put back together


Nice job! BUT posts like this are useless unless you post close up pics / with details / and where you sourced your parts.
OR at least link to more detailed info









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bwsteg*
> 
> I see, but I have the brand new 100i gtx unit. That's unacceptable how these new units have this issue. Corsair should step up to the plate and do something for its consumers facing this issue..I already sent a PM to a Corsair employee, waiting to hear back...


I think your just one of the few that are unlucky ... BUT to bash Corsair to "step up to the plate" is just pure "Noobness"









If you paid any attention to this thread in the past you would see Corsair probably has the BEST CS in the business!
Corsair Jo will probably be with you shortly ... apologize when he does









Man I got up on the wrong side of the bed this AM


----------



## bwsteg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Nice job! BUT posts like this are useless unless you post close up pics / with details / and where you sourced your parts.
> OR at least link to more detailed info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think your just one of the few that are unlucky ... BUT to bash Corsair to "step up to the plate" is just pure "Noobness"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you paid any attention to this thread in the past you would see Corsair probably has the BEST CS in the business!
> Corsair Jo will probably be with you shortly ... apologize when he does
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man I got up on the wrong side of the bed this AM


I understand that Corsair's customer service is top notch but that's not an excuse for this.

For example, if an automobile manufacturer offers 150k miles warranty but your vehicle is in the dealership every few months. Are we going to praise said manufacturer for offering outstanding warranty coverage or will we be irritated that we our car always needs repair work regardless if the work isn't coming out of pocket..

The issue with Corsair is that the h100i had similar issues along with a plethora of other Corsair cooling systems. One would think that because of them knowing that, they would've made sure that these new units produced no issues. Perhaps those who are unlucky were the first customers to purchase, perhaps a bad batch which allowed Corsair to fix it.


----------



## deathizem

its pretty simple go to a hardware store pick high temp tubing get some compression fittings take your pump apart clean rad and it is done I use hy-per lube super coolant you can get this at almost any pc shop in many cullers you can also buy the green at any auto parts store it alone will drop temps alone by about 20% here are some other pics this is when I first did the repair and I'm not at home until Tuesday when I will post the new pics with the new compression fitting's and the new mobo with green on it instead of blue 



it is my work in progress you can see them in my sig corsair is a great company and there products that they sale in the hundreds of thousands can sometimes have problems it happens


----------



## DogIsGod

Hello all, just wanted to check in.
I have recently upgraded to a Corsair H80i GT on my i7 - 4790K with Arctic Silver 5. However, I don't think my temps are normal. Running Prime 95 version 26.6 with small FFTs, and the cooler in performance mode, I get temps of about 70 C on cores 1-3 and about 60 C on core 4. The cooler temp in Link reads about 30 C. Case temp is 24 C. Could I have screwed up applying the thermal compound? I had to add 2 spacers to the back of the motherboard to get the thickness right, should I try another?
I don't think it's related, but balanced mode in link doesn't work, either. it always runs at the lowest RPM, even when Link shows the CPU at 70 C. Anyone have issues like this?
Thanks.


----------



## generalkayoss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DogIsGod*
> 
> Hello all, just wanted to check in.
> I have recently upgraded to a Corsair H80i GT on my i7 - 4790K with Arctic Silver 5. However, I don't think my temps are normal. Running Prime 95 version 26.6 with small FFTs, and the cooler in performance mode, I get temps of about 70 C on cores 1-3 and about 60 C on core 4. The cooler temp in Link reads about 30 C. Case temp is 24 C. Could I have screwed up applying the thermal compound? I had to add 2 spacers to the back of the motherboard to get the thickness right, should I try another?
> I don't think it's related, but balanced mode in link doesn't work, either. it always runs at the lowest RPM, even when Link shows the CPU at 70 C. Anyone have issues like this?
> Thanks.


Are you using one or two fans on the H80 rad? Thats a very thick rad and really needs two high static fans. As far as Prime 95 goes, those temperatures aren't really that bad for an H80. I have an H110 in push/pull on an overclocked 4670k and see temp spikes into the 60's while gaming and streaming. Prime 95 will heat your CPU up beyond what you would see during normal loads.


----------



## deathizem

that's not bad temps. how long did you run prime?


----------



## Bonjovi

Try Intel Burn test
as i realise IntelBurn test 10minute = 1h prime test

P.S Somebody know when they will add H110I GT in stock ? :///////////


----------



## Bard

I think I'm the #1 Corsair fanboy in here.





Got two H100i, and one H60 for the CPU, modded my SPEC-01 to fit the whole thing.


----------



## reset1101

Fractal PSU and Gentle Typhoon (I think, might be wrong) fans? Not that Corsair fanboy then


----------



## Bard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> Fractal PSU and Gentle Typhoon (I think, might be wrong) fans? Not that Corsair fanboy then


I'm not rich, I'm trying to get the cash to get an HX850 when I can, and the sleeved cables in blue. The fans are there for performance/noise reasons, I have LED Corsair fans that I can put on if I want to take glammy pics, lent them to someone for the moment, though. I own 7 Corsair products currently, I think that qualifies as fanboy status.









I also want a second Corsair SSD.


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bard*
> 
> I'm not rich, I'm trying to get the cash to get an HX850 when I can, and the sleeved cables in blue. The fans are there for performance/noise reasons, I have LED Corsair fans that I can put on if I want to take glammy pics, lent them to someone for the moment, though. I own 7 Corsair products currently, I think that qualifies as fanboy status.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also want a second Corsair SSD.


I was just joking, you have a lot of Corsair products already. If you are on a tight budget I wouldnt change the PSU, you have a good unit. Same goes for the fans, GTs are among the best fans you can buy and I wouldnt change them if I owned some.

And yes, having 7 Corsair products shows some love for Corsair. I have 7 myself too and I dont think I am a Corsair fanboy. Maybe I am and I didnt notice?


----------



## Bard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> I was just joking, you have a lot of Corsair products already. If you are on a tight budget I wouldnt change the PSU, you have a good unit. Same goes for the fans, GTs are among the best fans you can buy and I wouldnt change them if I owned some.
> 
> And yes, having 7 Corsair products shows some love for Corsair. I have 7 myself too and I dont think I am a Corsair fanboy. Maybe I am and I didnt notice?


What's your lineup?

(Also, I'm changing the PSU for space-related concerns and aesthetics, the HX850 is blue and semi-modular.)


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bard*
> 
> What's your lineup?
> 
> (Also, I'm changing the PSU for space-related concerns and aesthetics, the HX850 is blue and semi-modular.)


You can see it in my signature


----------



## Bard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> You can see it in my signature


Dang, now I need dominator platinum with the light kit.


----------



## DirtySocks




----------



## ssgtnubb

Playing around with a H100iGTX and I'm getting odd readings from Corsair link. I've got everything hooked up properly and in my bios I have the CPU fan headers both pegged at 100%. I know the cooler is working as my temps seem good but the Cooler Pump/Fan and Temp are highlighted in flashing red, any thoughts?


----------



## DirtySocks

They are not detected ? Have win 8.1 may be?


----------



## ssgtnubb

Running 7; I'm going to reset things tonight. I can hear the pump running and the fan's are spinning. My temps are ok so I think I'm doing something wrong.


----------



## bwsteg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> Playing around with a H100iGTX and I'm getting odd readings from Corsair link. I've got everything hooked up properly and in my bios I have the CPU fan headers both pegged at 100%. I know the cooler is working as my temps seem good but the Cooler Pump/Fan and Temp are highlighted in flashing red, any thoughts?


I had the same issue. What I did was disconnect/reconnect pump and fan connectors.

P.S, I have yet to receive any response from Corsair regarding my issues with the noisy pump...


----------



## ssgtnubb

Thank you sir, I'll give it a try.


----------



## ssgtnubb

No dice, issue still remains. I was praying this Corsair software was fixed but sadly no. I'm on the fence on returning.

I've decided this is going back to the Egg, until Corsair gets this software in check I'll be holding off on things, you shouldn't have to rub your head, tap your tummy and whistle Dixie to get this to work consistenty.

Until another time Corsair, you still have me for cases though!


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> No dice, issue still remains. I was praying this Corsair software was fixed but sadly no. I'm on the fence on returning.
> 
> I've decided this is going back to the Egg, until Corsair gets this software in check I'll be holding off on things, you shouldn't have to rub your head, tap your tummy and whistle Dixie to get this to work consistenty.
> 
> Until another time Corsair, you still have me for cases though!


Did you try searching Google? I did a quick search and it seems like the driver isn't correctly signed, so try updating/reinstalling the drivers....


----------



## MerkageTurk

Best fitment or orientation for an h110 and a 900d, alongside a rampage v?


----------



## ssgtnubb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Did you try searching Google? I did a quick search and it seems like the driver isn't correctly signed, so try updating/reinstalling the drivers....


Tried both drivers I can get off corsair, 3 times each, fully uninstalled, etc.. and still same issue persists, could be my motherboard but at this point I've moved on to a swifttech 220x, had the 240x already and wanted to move down to 220.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> Tried both drivers I can get off corsair, 3 times each, fully uninstalled, etc.. and still same issue persists, could be my motherboard but at this point I've moved on to a swifttech 220x, had the 240x already and wanted to move down to 220.


Ah, I see.... The software definitely has its set of quirks, and I'm sure even more so with the addition of some new coolers. I know in my case, I didn't even switch from Windows 7 to 8.1 until the Link software would work properly.








So how's the Swifttech working out for you?


----------



## ssgtnubb

I'm very impressed by the 220x and 240x series, they truly show their power under load with my 4790k @ 5ghz. Took a bit to get used to the look and the mounting of the block as I was used to the openness of a standard AIO like corsair as well as the ease of corsair's block.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Did you try searching Google? I did a quick search and it seems like the driver isn't correctly signed, so try updating/reinstalling the drivers....
> 
> 
> 
> Tried both drivers I can get off corsair, 3 times each, fully uninstalled, etc.. and still same issue persists, could be my motherboard but at this point I've moved on to a swifttech 220x, had the 240x already and wanted to move down to 220.
Click to expand...

Wild stab in the dark aince I am on my phone... UEFI setup? Restart system, go into UEFI and manually set your CPU header to max and see if that works.

~Ceadder


----------



## ssgtnubb

I've tired it on Smart Control and 100% and neither had an effect, whats odd is I can control the LED colors on the unit and that is it, you'd think it would be all or none. I could also see the H100iGTX in the devices section of the software however I still have no control over fan or pump speed. I'm using the supplied fans with the unit as well.


----------



## Ceadderman

I would submit a ticket then. Defective units happen.









~Ceadder


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssgtnubb*
> 
> I've tired it on Smart Control and 100% and neither had an effect, whats odd is I can control the LED colors on the unit and that is it, you'd think it would be all or none. I could also see the H100iGTX in the devices section of the software however I still have no control over fan or pump speed. I'm using the supplied fans with the unit as well.


----------



## MTup

I have the H100i and 1 of my fans in corsair link was red. After opening up my case and checking the connection it started reading rpm's again. When I let go of the fan plug it would go back to red. I didn't care for the pin setup at the pump and that's why I checked it. I think the problem is with the pin receiver for the fans.


----------



## Ceadderman

If you don't have a pin tool use a small paperclip to push the pin out and re-seat them one at a time. Checking to make sure they are correctly springy of course.

I ran into pins that slip occasionally. Since I have extra pins I just replace offenders and no more problems. It helps to have them and a good pin crimping tool on my desk.

If this is indeed the problem. Just make sure to keep the cables in the correct order. I'm sure TGWOS but I say it anyway.









~Ceadder


----------



## mtrains

Along with hardware issues such as loose pins on the connector there are way too many reports of flaky behavior with the Corsair Link software. So I decided to bypass Corsair Link for my H100i installation and plugged the fans directly to the CPU fan header and let the motherboard control it. I have a very stable system and I have one less piece of software to mess with. The only functionality I lose with this is the ability to change the LED color on the water block and I am fine with the default white color.


----------



## richie_2010

im not sure if this has been asked so i will ask









the h100i comes with a sata connection for power with a seperate 3pin for rpm monitoring
can i change this sata connector for a 3pin fan connector. im trying to reduce the number of cables i will need/length of them
i can only assume that all thats being used is ground and 12v


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> im not sure if this has been asked so i will ask
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the h100i comes with a sata connection for power with a seperate 3pin for rpm monitoring
> can i change this sata connector for a 3pin fan connector. im trying to reduce the number of cables i will need/length of them
> i can only assume that all thats being used is ground and 12v


The pump consumes 5-10w from what I read online so it should be fine. If you have a DMM you should be able to test the amperage to be sure. Most fan headers on motherboards have 1amp headers.

If you did that though, you can plug up the fans to the built in fan hub on the pump.


----------



## richie_2010

I have the fans plugged to a fan controller on my case anyway so that wont be an issue









I have a tester so will have a play


----------



## Bonjovi

Hello guys

I bought Corsair H80I and when i made this setting after restart PC my corsair pump light is changing and its lightining pink. and "Save" alsow dont working on other settings.

what can i do? I have Windows 7 64 bit


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Try deleting the profile and recreating it.


----------



## Bonjovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> Try deleting the profile and recreating it.


nothing change when i restart my pc LED settings are saving but when i off my PC from PSU and switch it again Cooler starting high DBA i thin fan full speed after starting windows load Coolers going to 500 RMP as i write but leds going crazy. i need to write led profile again.

i made 2 idfferent profile but when i off pc start again both profiles was dameged . led setting i mean in each profile. Fans speed was Fixed as i write

what can i do?


----------



## Timstuff

I've been having the same problem. I set my light to blue, and it changes back to white every time I reboot, even though Link says that it's set to blue.


----------



## richie_2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timstuff*
> 
> I've been having the same problem. I set my light to blue, and it changes back to white every time I reboot, even though Link says that it's set to blue.


Same ere actually. I set mine to red turn off its now white.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Under RGB LED set-up in Corsair Link, try putting the other 2 values to "1" instead of "0". For example, if you choose the pump to be red, put the red value all the way up to 255, then change blue and green to 1, not 0. Save that under the profile you created then reboot. See if that will keep the last color you saved.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

@jameyscott This blog is probably worth adding to the OP of this thread. It includes a lot of updated and vital information regarding the most recent cases and coolers with compatibility guideline. It has a very detailed chart break down for each cooler from 120 rad spec to 280, a pretty good reference when comparing Corsair AIO liquid coolers.

http://www.corsair.com/en-us/blog/2015/april/corsair-hydro-series-cpu-cooler-decoder-ring-and-case-compatibility-chart


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> @jameyscott This blog is probably worth adding to the OP of this thread. It includes a lot of updated and vital information regarding the most recent cases and coolers with compatibility guideline. It has a very detailed chart break down for each cooler from 120 rad spec to 280, a pretty good reference when comparing Corsair AIO liquid coolers.
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/en-us/blog/2015/april/corsair-hydro-series-cpu-cooler-decoder-ring-and-case-compatibility-chart


Thanks! Will definitely add that later tonight.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Thanks! Will definitely add that later tonight.


Thanks Jamey - You are the best


----------



## Timstuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Under RGB LED set-up in Corsair Link, try putting the other 2 values to "1" instead of "0". For example, if you choose the pump to be red, put red value all the way up to 255, then change blue and green to 1, not 0. Save that under you profile you created then reboot. See if that will keep the last color you saved.


I gave this a try and so far so good. I'll update y'all if I run into problems again.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> @jameyscott This blog is probably worth adding to the OP of this thread. It includes a lot of updated and vital information regarding the most recent cases and coolers with compatibility guideline. It has a very detailed chart break down for each cooler from 120 rad spec to 280, a pretty good reference when comparing Corsair AIO liquid coolers.
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/en-us/blog/2015/april/corsair-hydro-series-cpu-cooler-decoder-ring-and-case-compatibility-chart


Fantastic article, very well written, concise and clearly states what many of us have been saying for years! +R









--> *"For starters, the larger the cooler you use, the slower you can run the fans. The slower you run the fans, the quieter the cooler is."*

--> *"For example, Intel's Haswell (non-E) and Devil's Canyon processors can hit a heat wall where they simply can't transfer more heat into the cooler. Getting a bigger cooler can get you lower noise levels, but if your core voltage is already at 1.35V, odds are good a beefier cooler isn't going to get you more overclocking headroom. And it shouldn't; that heat wall shows up at roughly the highest amount of voltage you'd want to put into an Intel chip for daily use."*

Note: There are also performance differences in the succeeding newer model cold plates technology improvements.

--> *"The greater the thickness of the radiator, the deeper the cooler overall and the greater its performance potential. Note that a 240mm radiator with the standard 25mm thickness requires less static pressure to cool than a 120mm radiator with <50mm thickness; though the 120mm radiator may have nearly as much surface area, greater static pressure from the fans - and thus greater noise - is required to adequately cool the radiator."
*

Note: Fin densities will play a part if you are comparing "some" different makes of rads!

Hopefully peeps will read the OP ... keep up the good work Jamey/George!


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timstuff*
> 
> I gave this a try and so far so good. I'll update y'all if I run into problems again.


That's good to hear. Keep me posted if you see any issues.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Fantastic article, very well written, concise and clearly states what many of us have been saying for years! +R
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully peeps will read the OP ... keep up the good work Jamey/George!


Glad to see that you find it informative, I hope others will see it the same way.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> @jameyscott This blog is probably worth adding to the OP of this thread. It includes a lot of updated and vital information regarding the most recent cases and coolers with compatibility guideline. It has a very detailed chart break down for each cooler from 120 rad spec to 280, a pretty good reference when comparing Corsair AIO liquid coolers.
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/en-us/blog/2015/april/corsair-hydro-series-cpu-cooler-decoder-ring-and-case-compatibility-chart
> 
> 
> 
> Fantastic article, very well written, concise and clearly states what many of us have been saying for years! +R
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --> *"For starters, the larger the cooler you use, the slower you can run the fans. The slower you run the fans, the quieter the cooler is."*
> 
> --> *"For example, Intel's Haswell (non-E) and Devil's Canyon processors can hit a heat wall where they simply can't transfer more heat into the cooler. Getting a bigger cooler can get you lower noise levels, but if your core voltage is already at 1.35V, odds are good a beefier cooler isn't going to get you more overclocking headroom. And it shouldn't; that heat wall shows up at roughly the highest amount of voltage you'd want to put into an Intel chip for daily use."*
> 
> Note: There are also performance differences in the succeeding newer model cold plates technology improvements.
> 
> --> *"The greater the thickness of the radiator, the deeper the cooler overall and the greater its performance potential. Note that a 240mm radiator with the standard 25mm thickness requires less static pressure to cool than a 120mm radiator with <50mm thickness; though the 120mm radiator may have nearly as much surface area, greater static pressure from the fans - and thus greater noise - is required to adequately cool the radiator."
> *
> 
> Note: Fin densities will play a part if you are comparing "some" different makes of rads!
> 
> Hopefully peeps will read the OP ... keep up the good work Jamey/George!
Click to expand...

All of this I have mentioned here in the past. But it's good to see it said in an overall statement rather than a bunch of threads that are spread out.

Someone in the water cooling gallery really pushed his opinion that AIOs' aren't that good and I just







knowing full well that allot of this is subjective to the system needs/requirements having used an AIO h50, which if I had had the larger radiator capacity of the h100, I wwould've likely stayed with AIO rather than spend a lot of money on a custom loop to cool my Folding rig. But I also needed my NB to run cooler, which didn't help.









~Ceadder


----------



## jameyscott

Sorry guys, thought I had added the link the other night. Looks like it didn't go through. Added now.









I want this to be a community based thing, so if there is anything that you want to see added to the OP, please let me know and I'll be happy to see to it as best I can.


----------



## Timstuff

Truth be told I am mostly going custom loop because it's a fun project. I'll be able to add my next GPU to the loop which is great, but I don't think there's anything wrong with AIOs. I was this close to just getting an H110i GTX, and decided to go custom loop just because when I looked at the tutorials it looked a lot less difficult than I initially realized. AIOs are affordable and pretty goof-proof, and I would gladly recommend a Corsair Hydro over almost any air cooler.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timstuff*
> 
> Truth be told I am mostly going custom loop because it's a fun project. I'll be able to add my next GPU to the loop which is great, but I don't think there's anything wrong with AIOs. I was this close to just getting an H110i GTX, and decided to go custom loop just because when I looked at the tutorials it looked a lot less difficult than I initially realized. AIOs are affordable and pretty goof-proof, and I would gladly recommend a Corsair Hydro over almost any air cooler.


Custom loops are great, but lately, I've been considering my next build just being a Corsair cooler and the stock fans of whatever GPU I would want to get. With zero RPM fan modes now available on GPUs, my qualm with GPU air coolers is over. I know there are other options like the HG10 which are great, especially from a cost perspective, but I'm not a huge fan of the look (compared to a custom loop of course)

I dunno. I mean, I still love water cooling, and eventually will get my build into the 900D, but laziness and lots of work has prevented that.


----------



## MTup

I bought a set of those Corsair Air Series SP120's, 2350 rpm and changed out my originals from my h100i. I put the 2700 rpm on the left side panel and brought my NB down 12ºC. I have a fan controller and a sensor deep in the valley of the heatsink. I know it's not the real temp but I also know it's that much cooler. My cpu temp did not change at 44ºC max on high with IBT putting the lower rpm fans exhausting through the radiator with push only and I am at 4.735GHz overclocked so far. This fan in the side panel actually reaches my VRM's and they are cooler too as long as my back exhaust fan is off. Go figure.....


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Under RGB LED set-up in Corsair Link, try putting the other 2 values to "1" instead of "0". For example, if you choose the pump to be red, put the red value all the way up to 255, then change blue and green to 1, not 0. Save that under the profile you created then reboot. See if that will keep the last color you saved.


Tha is a really smart workaround!


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Tha is a really smart workaround!


This worked for me as well. Corsair Joe works for Corsair and has contributed a lot of great information here. Ty Joe.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Tha is a really smart workaround!


Cool! Glad to hear that it worked. Although, I'd still prefer for you guys not to do it because the SW should be free of that bug. Soon enough, we'll get that fixed for you guys once the updated version of the SW is out.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> This worked for me as well. Corsair Joe works for Corsair and has contributed a lot of great information here. Ty Joe.


Thank you







I appreciate that. I'm just trying my best to make that your experience with Corsair link is positive one... though its a little tough, as these bugs are not very consistent from system to another. At some point, we'll get them all figured out.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Cool! Glad to hear that it worked. Although, I'd still prefer for you guys not to do it because the SW should be free of that bug. Soon enough, we'll get that fixed for you guys once the updated version of the SW is out.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I appreciate that. I'm just trying my best to make that your experience with Corsair link is positive one... though its a little tough, as these bugs are not very consistent from system to another. At some point, we'll get them all figured out.


DOUBLE POST.


----------



## Bonjovi

Newegg already have H110I GT. God demt when amazon will buy it


----------



## deathizem

I cant seem to get mine working at all when I switch from one OS to the other it works fine on win7 and wont on 8.1 os on the same mobo every thing works it just wont show the pump or fans that come off it


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathizem*
> 
> I cant seem to get mine working at all when I switch from one OS to the other it works fine on win7 and wont on 8.1 os on the same mobo every thing works it just wont show the pump or fans that come off it


Windows 8.1 is a bit pickier about the Link software - it kinda works, or it doesn't. There's some fix that can be applied to make it work properly, but I don't remember it off the top of my head - a google search will bring it up for you though.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> ... the SW should be free of that bug. Soon enough, we'll get that fixed for you guys once the updated version of the SW is out.


Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha! Hahahaha! Haaa ha ha ha! You are very funny! ROFL. LMAO.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha! Hahahaha! Haaa ha ha ha! You are very funny! ROFL. LMAO.


You've just lost me here....


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Windows 8.1 is a bit pickier about the Link software - it kinda works, or it doesn't. There's some fix that can be applied to make it work properly, but I don't remember it off the top of my head - a google search will bring it up for you though.


I've found that software version 2.5.5145 works best with Windows 8.1. Granted, this is not for the new coolers, just the "older" coolers.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> You've just lost me here....


What are you doing on this late?


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> What are you doing on this late?


You should ask yourself the same question







ticket?

Sorry about that double post btw, I didn't even notice it until you told me


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> You should ask yourself the same question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ticket?
> 
> Sorry about that double post btw, I didn't even notice it until you told me


Insomnia at its finest. :/

Haha, I'm just messing about the double post.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> You've just lost me here....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha! Hahahaha! Haaa ha ha ha! You are very funny! ROFL. LMAO.


You said several hilarious things:
- the new version will be out soon
- the new version will fix this bug

None of the bugs with Link have ever been fixed, they just keep getting worse as more Link-enabled devices hit the marketplace and the underlying operating systems evolve. Successive versions take longer and longer to get released, too. Maybe it wasn't as funny as I originally thought, after all I had to explain the humor!


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> You said several hilarious things:
> - the new version will be out soon
> - the new version will fix this bug
> 
> None of the bugs with Link have ever been fixed, they just keep getting worse as more Link-enabled devices hit the marketplace and the underlying operating systems evolve. Successive versions take longer and longer to get released, too. Maybe it wasn't as funny as I originally thought, after all I had to explain the humor!


Ah I see, I didn't know that you were being sarcastic when you made those comments.. I really thought those remarks were sincere, perhaps avoid sarcasm next time, that way we can have a more serious dialogue.

You're right, Corsair link has its flaws and has been a challenge for us ever since its release and it continues to be one, but it does NOT mean that it has not gotten better over the years. We have already seen a huge improvement and progress in the past few months alone, hence why your statement above a bit misguided. If you are a long time C link user, then you would probably know what I'm talking about. If not, then that would explain why you made that comment.

We believe that we are moving towards the right direction with Corsair Link, and we will continue to do so because we know that we can achieve making this app the ultimate SW to customize your system's eco-system when using Corsair hardware that are Corsair Link enabled.


----------



## eBombzor

@Corsair Joseph

While on the topic of Link, would you guys be able to add the option to remove hardware monitoring and customize the polling rate?

I would prefer not to have Corsair Link monitor VRM, CPU, or HDD temps when I'm strictly using my H80i to cool my GPU.

Thanks!


----------



## Timstuff

I'm having trouble not with a Hydro cooler, but a Corsair Link Commander Mini that I'm using in a custom loop. Long story short, the Link software suite unsuccessfully tried to update the Commander's firmware, and now it's not detecting it at all. Here is the relevant post.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> @Corsair Joseph
> 
> While on the topic of Link, would you guys be able to add the option to remove hardware monitoring and customize the polling rate?
> 
> I would prefer not to have Corsair Link monitor VRM, CPU, or HDD temps when I'm strictly using my H80i to cool my GPU.
> 
> Thanks!


This is something that we have already discussed in the past and many actually agreed that its an interesting idea but as far I can tell, we have not included anything like this in the current nor future builds.

That said, we can put in a request for that feature to be included on our Corsair Link wish list.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timstuff*
> 
> I'm having trouble not with a Hydro cooler, but a Corsair Link Commander Mini that I'm using in a custom loop. Long story short, the Link software suite unsuccessfully tried to update the Commander's firmware, and now it's not detecting it at all. Here is the relevant post.


Yeah, based on that post you made, it sounds like the Commander Mini may have gotten bricked during the FW update. Uncommon, but it happens. As soon that you get the replacement, let me know right away if you get the same problem.

fwiw, I've got 2 Commander mini installed in my systems, one at home using H80i GT and one at work with H110i GT...no bs, both systems are working flawlessly with Commander mini. I did have an issue initially with my system at home where the fan profile wasn't following the fan curve I created. All I did to fix it is, delete the profile and recreate then save, after reboot the fan profile kicked in.


----------



## VSG

Joseph, any idea if Link recognizes two Commander Mini units simultaneously? I got sent one by Prof Cao and then a fellow OCN member had let me borrow one to play with. I am awaiting a few things before I begin but wanted to know if someone had tried this already.


----------



## Tom Brohanks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> You've just lost me here....


Are you guys going to fix Corsair Link so that it works with Windows 10?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Brohanks*
> 
> Are you guys going to fix Corsair Link so that it works with Windows 10?


You are realizing that Windows 10 has not been officially released yet, right? The version that's out right now is a Technical Preview. Once it's actually been released, I'm sure they'll be updating.


----------



## NKrader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> You are realizing that Windows 10 has not been officially released yet, right? The version that's out right now is a Technical Preview. Once it's actually been released, I'm sure they'll be updating.


LOL


----------



## Tom Brohanks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> You are realizing that Windows 10 has not been officially released yet, right? The version that's out right now is a Technical Preview. Once it's actually been released, I'm sure they'll be updating.


I needed a good laugh.


----------



## redshoulder

regarding 100igtx, can you replace stock fans with 3 pin fans and then use link software to monitor and control fan speed and pump speed?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Brohanks*
> 
> I needed a good laugh.


I'm not sure what exactly you're finding to be funny in my statement. Care to elaborate?


----------



## Voxmagna

Don't want to put an unsafe amount of strain on the hoes, is this all right?


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup that's fine. Remember that your socket will be around 10mm or so off the MB tray. Should be no problem if you set it up in that configuration.









~Ceadder


----------



## Voxmagna

Thanks for the quick reply


----------



## Ceadderman

Yvw.









~©eadder


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Ah I see, I didn't know that you were being sarcastic when you made those comments.. I really thought those remarks were sincere, perhaps avoid sarcasm next time, that way we can have a more serious dialogue.
> 
> You're right, Corsair link has its flaws and has been a challenge for us ever since its release and it continues to be one, but it does NOT mean that it has not gotten better over the years. We have already seen a huge improvement and progress in the past few months alone, hence why your statement above a bit misguided. If you are a long time C link user, then you would probably know what I'm talking about. If not, then that would explain why you made that comment.
> 
> We believe that we are moving towards the right direction with Corsair Link, and we will continue to do so because we know that we can achieve making this app the ultimate SW to customize your system's eco-system when using Corsair hardware that are Corsair Link enabled.


Don't you think software like that should be working a little better before it's released? I was an early owner of the M90 mouse (which I no longer use), and it was literally hell to get that thing working. It took a month before there was a working firmware/software update. I sent one mouse back to Corsair when a firmware update bricked it, and then an end-user came out with some rather strange fixes to get it working before Corsair did. In my opinion, Corsair has a poor track record with software. I'm thinking maybe your programmers need a little help, or perhaps Corsair should make use of another company that specializes in software.
The mouse software was basically broken when the hardware was for sale in stores (something that should never happen). I think someone was in a rush to get it out for Christmas even though it didn't work and was really buggy.
When I first heard of the link I was excited about it, but now I'm really glad I stuck with my H100 and never purchased an H100i. My blood pressure likely couldn't have stood the strain.
I don't think I'll be purchasing anything that relies on Corsair software to function. If I do purchase any more Corsair coolers (which I like BTW), they won't be the link versions. Thank god no one has a Corsair pacemaker that relies on the link....


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Joseph, any idea if Link recognizes two Commander Mini units simultaneously? I got sent one by Prof Cao and then a fellow OCN member had let me borrow one to play with. I am awaiting a few things before I begin but wanted to know if someone had tried this already.


Yes, it will support two commander minis. However, in the devices panel it will only show one device and not two. In the main panel you will have two "Commander Mini Fan 1" if both units have fans plugged into port 1 and so on for the thermistors and LED channels. They will all be controllable.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Brohanks*
> 
> Are you guys going to fix Corsair Link so that it works with Windows 10?


There is no official Corsair Link / Windows 10 statement at the moment.. as we are still running some test. It's still premature at this point, but we will release a public statement once we have enough data. There's still a lot work ahead of us.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Corsair has a poor track record with software. I'm thinking maybe your programmers need a little help, or perhaps Corsair should make use of another company that specializes in software.


We do recognize our shortcomings, especially in the software area. We intend to improve that to give you guys are more positive experience when using our software.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey, could be worse. I owned an OCZ keyboard that couldn't run on Win7. I took my system from XP to W7 Ultimate and the keyboard became completely wonky. End of story is OCZ refunded me an I got an upgrade for my cooling system.









~Ceadder


----------



## Timstuff

My OCZ SSD went wonky on me like a month after the warranty expired, and I bought it before the Toshiba buyout. Some luck I have.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Brohanks*
> 
> Are you guys going to fix Corsair Link so that it works with Windows 10?


More urgently, are they going to fix it so it works with Windows 8.1?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> More urgently, are they going to fix it so it works with Windows 8.1?


What version of the Link software are you running?


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> What version of the Link software are you running?


None! I put up with it up to the latest (3.15?), then finally gave up, uninstalled the software and removed the dongle from my PC. I then removed my H100i and put in a custon loop, although I did keep the awesome AX1200i. I'm much happier now that I don't depend on Link for anything.
AFAIK, there has never been a reliable, stable version of Link. I understand the problem comes from it being developed by a third party Corsair has partnered with to develop their AIO coolers, but I don't get how they would let such a crucial piece of their value offering remain defective for so long without doing something drastic about it.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> None! I put up with it up to the latest (3.15?), then finally gave up, uninstalled the software and removed the dongle from my PC. I then removed my H100i and put in a custon loop, although I did keep the awesome AX1200i. I'm much happier now that I don't depend on Link for anything.
> AFAIK, there has never been a reliable, stable version of Link. I understand the problem comes from it being developed by a third party Corsair has partnered with to develop their AIO coolers, but I don't get how they would let such a crucial piece of their value offering remain defective for so long without doing something drastic about it.


An older version of Link works just fine on Windows 8.1, v2.5.5145.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> An older version of Link works just fine on Windows 8.1, v2.5.5145.


Not if you have a newer motherboard, because it may not like "non legacy" USB implementations, Also, not if you are running other monitoring software, such as Asus AI Suite. Also, not if you are running a Commander mini and/or a Link Lighting Node. Other than that, yeah, I hear it runs like a champ.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Not if you have a newer motherboard, because it may not like "non legacy" USB implementations, Also, not if you are running other monitoring software, such as Asus AI Suite. Also, not if you are running a Commander mini and/or a Link Lighting Node. Other than that, yeah, I hear it runs like a champ.


How new is "newer"? I have a Z87 board and it runs fine.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> How new is "newer"? I have a Z87 board and it runs fine.


Congratulations


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Congratulations


So I guess you just now realized your statements were false. Realization is a good thing.


----------



## Voxmagna

Win 8.1 corsair link V 3.1.5525

Everything seems to be working... somewhat


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voxmagna*
> 
> Win 8.1 corsair link V 3.1.5525
> 
> Everything seems to be working... somewhat
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! Though your statement implies that something isn't quite working properly. Out of curiosity, what isn't working? Here's mine:


----------



## Voxmagna

Going from not working at all to working with some redundant readings is a great improvement, i'd say


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voxmagna*
> 
> Going from not working at all to working with some redundant readings is a great improvement, i'd say


Yeah, that definitely sounds like an improvement.


----------



## redshoulder

From reading various reviews from newegg there seems to be some problems with the h100iGTX pump as it is much louder than previous generations and there is grinding noise even in silent mode. Anyone else care to give more information on this?


----------



## Voxmagna

Glad i never installed the H105, this looks much better.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well good fer ya. You needn't post competitor pics to let us know you're not running a Corsair AIO cooler. Honestly though there is nothing wrong with Corsair's AIOs. They can have a bad unit like anyone else. They'll step up and rectify it like they always do.









~Ceadder


----------



## Voxmagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well good fer ya. You needn't post competitor pics to let us know you're not running a Corsair AIO cooler. Honestly though there is nothing wrong with Corsair's AIOs. They can have a bad unit like anyone else. They'll step up and rectify it like they always do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


As for the h105 waiting for gpu bracket for 980ti*


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well good fer ya. You needn't post competitor pics to let us know you're not running a Corsair AIO cooler. Honestly though there is nothing wrong with Corsair's AIOs. They can have a bad unit like anyone else. They'll step up and rectify it like they always do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Competitor AIO? Whose post are you looking at? Voxmagna's pics are the H100i GTX, the Corsair logo is clearly (sort-of







) shining in the 2nd pic....


----------



## Ceadderman

On my phone it looks like an Enerma. My bad.

Only after pointing it out did it become clear to my ancient eyes.









~Ceadder


----------



## NKrader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> On my phone it looks like an Enerma. My bad.
> 
> Only after pointing it out did it become clear to my ancient eyes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> On my phone it looks like an Enerma. My bad.
> 
> Only after pointing it out did it become clear to my ancient eyes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I was kinda wondering who had the audacity to come in here like that.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NKrader*


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NKrader*


Trust me, you don't want to do the flush and fill on one of those.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> Trust me, you don't want to do the flush and fill on one of those.


Yeah, that's definitely an activity that I prefer to avoid....


----------



## Sysop82

I have a question for anyone who has had success using Noctua fans on an H80i or 100? I am cooling a 4670k with the H80i and it has been OK cooling wise the last year. I am just fed up with the noise I guess. I just got a new psu and a 970 which are near silent along with my case fans so now its just the loud corsair h80 fans.

I was thinking about getting the Noctua NH-D14 because I read it cools better than the h80i but between the price and how big and ugly it is I am thinking of sticking with the h80i but I want to use the amazing Noctua fans with it. I was reading some reviews and noticed those fans going at only 1200rpm cools the same as the stock corsair fans but nearly silent.

I want to get two Noctua fans for the H80i. So my question is the NF-P12 or NF-F12. I read the F12s are the best for radiator but only good at pushing. So should I get the NF-F12 as the push and the NF-P12 as the pull? Just confused by the two fans.


----------



## Ceadderman

Get a couple Vardars an be done with stressing about it. Or get a couple GT's from Coolerguys for the same kind of money.

Either way stick with something that is meant to work with Radiators. Noctuas are quiet enough but you want something that provides good static pressure and less sound. If you go with a fan that has a low rpm range on the h80 with high SP you won't be sorry at all and you'll get the most out of your AIO.









~Ceadder


----------



## NKrader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sysop82*
> 
> I have a question for anyone who has had success using Noctua fans on an H80i or 100? I am cooling a 4670k with the H80i and it has been OK cooling wise the last year. I am just fed up with the noise I guess. I just got a new psu and a 970 which are near silent along with my case fans so now its just the loud corsair h80 fans.
> 
> I was thinking about getting the Noctua NH-D14 because I read it cools better than the h80i but between the price and how big and ugly it is I am thinking of sticking with the h80i but I want to use the amazing Noctua fans with it. I was reading some reviews and noticed those fans going at only 1200rpm cools the same as the stock corsair fans but nearly silent.
> 
> I want to get two Noctua fans for the H80i. So my question is the NF-P12 or NF-F12. I read the F12s are the best for radiator but only good at pushing. So should I get the NF-F12 as the push and the NF-P12 as the pull? Just confused by the two fans.


Almost any fan is silent at +/-1200rpm
Just turn the stock ones down? I don't think I've ever had the fans over 1000rpm on mine
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Get a couple Vardars an be done with stressing about it. Or get a couple GT's from Coolerguys for the same kind of money.
> 
> Either way stick with something that is meant to work with Radiators. Noctuas are quiet enough but you want something that provides good static pressure and less sound. If you go with a fan that has a low rpm range on the h80 with high SP you won't be sorry at all and you'll get the most out of your AIO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You do realize some of the models of noctua are meant for static pressure right?
The new ones are great radiator fans if price doesn't effect your scoring system, as they are still wicked expensive for being about the same as the others (although I purchase noctua because of their amazing warranty and customer service)


----------



## Ceadderman

But they don't all have solid SP. which is what you want for fans that mate to a radiator.









Nimja'd









Yes I know, but why buy them unless you're into puke an brown or your color scheme matches it. For the same kind of dollar out too.









~Ceadder


----------



## NKrader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> But they don't all have solid SP. which is what you want for fans that mate to a radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nimja'd
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I know, but why buy them unless you're into puke an brown or your color scheme matches it. For the same kind of dollar out too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


And they come in black and gray


----------



## Ceadderman

Now see that I did not know. I been out for 2 years an am getting reaclimated. Still dollar for dollar I would rather get Vardars or GTs. GTs would probably get my monies first since you can get for less than $20, if you cannae get them, Vardar's since they too are less than $20 and compare favorably with GTs an well if you Cannae go with those Noctuas. In any of those cases you can't go wrong.









~Ceadder


----------



## Sysop82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NKrader*
> 
> And they come in black and gray


Noctua come in black and gray? I have omly seen the bad colors on amazon and newegg. Both noctua F-12 and P-12 are great for static pressure with F-12 being the best. But I read a review that said it might hinder when its pulling. Since I need one pushing and one pulling I might get both.

I have to turn up my stock fans high rpm to get any cooling. Which is why I want the static pressure low rpm nocturas.


----------



## DeadRah

Hello,

I have H105i in my case and not using the stock fans what came with the cooler because they were too noisy for me but instead replaced them with Corsair SP120 High Performance Editions. They are very silent and my temps under the load are 45-46 for CPU and 32ish for Mobo. Motherboard is Asus M5A99X EVO 2.0. CPU thermal limit around 62 degrees Celsius. Not using any adapter for fans or any fan controller. They are plugged into stock mobo fan headers. Adding fan controller for better controlling the fans.
Cpu is stock clocked AMD [email protected] Had though about the Noctua fans but they come with high price and im kinda budget driven with my rig. Only thing that makes noise if i turn off the fans from AI Suite is the pump that cools the cpu and still the temps aint reaching 50 with idling or when using silent profile is the Cooler Master JetFlo 120 as exhaust. In fans off mode the noise is between 34-35Db and with silet profile 38-39Db measured with android smart phone app named Sound Meter. Case is Cooler Master Storm Enforcer that ive bit modded, just removed unnecessary things. Sorry for bad english because its not my native language.
Hope this post helps.


----------



## mtrains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sysop82*
> 
> I have a question for anyone who has had success using Noctua fans on an H80i or 100? I am cooling a 4670k with the H80i and it has been OK cooling wise the last year. I am just fed up with the noise I guess. I just got a new psu and a 970 which are near silent along with my case fans so now its just the loud corsair h80 fans.
> 
> I was thinking about getting the Noctua NH-D14 because I read it cools better than the h80i but between the price and how big and ugly it is I am thinking of sticking with the h80i but I want to use the amazing Noctua fans with it. I was reading some reviews and noticed those fans going at only 1200rpm cools the same as the stock corsair fans but nearly silent.
> 
> I want to get two Noctua fans for the H80i. So my question is the NF-P12 or NF-F12. I read the F12s are the best for radiator but only good at pushing. So should I get the NF-F12 as the push and the NF-P12 as the pull? Just confused by the two fans.


I am running the H100i with two Noctua NF-F12 PPC-2000 fans. These fans are black with brown removable vibration isolators and are significantly quieter. Running at around 800 rpm they maintain the temperature the same as the stock fans did at around 1150rpm.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> So I guess you just now realized your statements were false. Realization is a good thing.


http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?p=779207#post779207
This discussion, and many others like it, might shed some light on the falsehood or veracity of my statements. On the same forum, you can find many direct admissions by Corsair representatives about the problems with Link. Its bugs are not a secret, Corsair doesn't deny them, and their existence is not made up by a conspiracy against Corsair. You might find this one interesting, but there are many others: http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=139859
So the situation here is either I'm being dumb or deceitful by bringing up these faults, as you state, or somebody else is.


----------



## Blacklac

I have an H75 on my GPU. Can the Pump be ran off a 2 pin connection? the 2 pin is off a Molex, pretty sure it was wired for my case fan.


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?p=779207#post779207
> This discussion, and many others like it, might shed some light on the falsehood or veracity of my statements. On the same forum, you can find many direct admissions by Corsair representatives about the problems with Link. Its bugs are not a secret, Corsair doesn't deny them, and their existence is not made up by a conspiracy against Corsair. You might find this one interesting, but there are many others: http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=139859
> So the situation here is either I'm being dumb or deceitful by bringing up these faults, as you state, or somebody else is.


I bought my H100i a few months ago and haven't had a problem at all with Link. Everything is there when the plug to the fans isn't broke. That's the only beef I have. The sockets where the fans plug into the pump suck. I'm using a fan controller anyway but Link shows everything I need to know and the LED's work perfectly.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?p=779207#post779207
> This discussion, and many others like it, might shed some light on the falsehood or veracity of my statements. On the same forum, you can find many direct admissions by Corsair representatives about the problems with Link. Its bugs are not a secret, Corsair doesn't deny them, and their existence is not made up by a conspiracy against Corsair. You might find this one interesting, but there are many others: http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=139859
> So the situation here is either I'm being dumb or deceitful by bringing up these faults, as you state, or somebody else is.


I'm sorry, but nothing you have linked makes this a true statement, "Not if you have a newer motherboard, because it may not like "non legacy" USB implementations".

No one has said that Link doesn't have any issues (not even me), but you seem to be overlooking the fact that there are solutions for them as well. Keep in mind that I am *currently* using the Link software, and have been since I got my H100i about a year ago. I've used it on Windows 7, 8, 8.1, and 10. I've read through all kinds of threads where people seem to jump on some sort of "bandwagon" and throw hissy-fits about the software having it's glitches and such, but we're not going to get into that.

I see it this way: designing software that works perfectly on every single person's completely different PC component configuration is probably impossible. No matter what the software is, there is always someone who will have an issue. So maybe one version of the software covers this section of people and their configurations. Then maybe the next version covers people with a different configuration. That sounds like it works decent enough.


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I'm sorry, but nothing you have linked makes this a true statement, "Not if you have a newer motherboard, because it may not like "non legacy" USB implementations".
> 
> No one has said that Link doesn't have any issues (not even me), but you seem to be overlooking the fact that there are solutions for them as well. Keep in mind that I am *currently* using the Link software, and have been since I got my H100i about a year ago. I've used it on Windows 7, 8, 8.1, and 10. I've read through all kinds of threads where people seem to jump on some sort of "bandwagon" and throw hissy-fits about the software having it's glitches and such, but we're not going to get into that.
> 
> I see it this way: designing software that works perfectly on every single person's completely different PC component configuration is probably impossible. No matter what the software is, there is always someone who will have an issue. So maybe one version of the software covers this section of people and their configurations. Then maybe the next version covers people with a different configuration. That sounds like it works decent enough.


Amen!


----------



## ikem

What do you guys think?

Would two H60 on this be ok? E5-2650 which is 95w tdp.

I have been debating an aio or another air cooler.


----------



## Ceadderman

Assuming that your system is dual CPU, H60 would be fine. So long as you have a spot to put two single Rads. If it's one it would definitely work.

Can't tell on my phone but it looks like you've two heatsinks.









~Ceadder


----------



## ikem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Assuming that your system is dual CPU, H60 would be fine. So long as you have a spot to put two single Rads. If it's one it would definitely work.
> 
> Can't tell on my phone but it looks like you've two heatsinks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


yea. z9pe-d8. The top 120mm fans on the TJ10 are spaced wide, so i have enough room to mount the rads with the tubes on the front and back. Thanks!


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Heads up guys, we have just released the latest version of Corsair Link, version 3.1.5570, more details here, http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=140973
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blacklac*
> 
> I have an H75 on my GPU. Can the Pump be ran off a 2 pin connection? the 2 pin is off a Molex, pretty sure it was wired for my case fan.


I'm pretty sure that you referring to this adapter. If so, yes that is fine.


----------



## VSG

Good thing I just started testing out the Corsair Link Commander Mini then, I will go ahead and try it out.


----------



## darkelixa

Whats the normal sound for a h100i gtx pump?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9YzzBKQMX0

Thats the sound mine and many others make I believe


----------



## Timstuff

My H80i pump did not make an audible sound, at last not louder than the fans i had. If your pump is noisy, there might be something wrong with it.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Whats the normal sound for a h100i gtx pump?
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9YzzBKQMX0
> 
> Thats the sound mine and many others make I believe


If you have Corsair Link installed, try to put the pump under quiet mode and see if that will tone down the noise.


----------



## Captain Razer

So anyone can tell me whether this is correcrly installed? I feel like the pump is a bit too "inside" and may stress the hoses.





Opinions?


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks fine. Those tubes don't look all that stressed.









~Ceadder


----------



## HandGunPat

Looking to purchase a H105 or H110i, put im looking to pair them with some noise blocker fans.

Do I want a higher static pressure? Looking to get the best pair.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes, the higher the SP rating the better.









~Ceadder


----------



## Blacklac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> I'm pretty sure that you referring to this adapter. If so, yes that is fine.


Yes, that looks like it, and thank you.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blacklac*
> 
> Yes, that looks like it, and thank you.


No problem at all


----------



## VSG

While I can't post the links to the reviews, I will say that the new SP120/SP140 LED fans are pretty good. The SP120 LED fans are actually quite a bit better than the retail versions that come with the rings.


----------



## savagebunny

I've been curious for a while since I've had my h80i. I'm using the AM3+ bracket just a FYI. Anyways, the cable to the pump, it is a super tight fit and is bent atm so I can power the pump. Issues is where you can see is the securing screw is in the way with this bracket. Is there a fix for this or am I the only one who did this wrong? I was just gonna splice my own cable so I don't keep the USB end bent and hopefully don't damage the pump later down the road.


Bigger photo if needed: http://i.imgur.com/YkaEM6N.jpg

EDIT: Checked some forums and read deeper, I guess this is a common issue.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagebunny*
> 
> I've been curious for a while since I've had my h80i. I'm using the AM3+ bracket just a FYI. Anyways, the cable to the pump, it is a super tight fit and is bent atm so I can power the pump. Issues is where you can see is the securing screw is in the way with this bracket. Is there a fix for this or am I the only one who did this wrong? I was just gonna splice my own cable so I don't keep the USB end bent and hopefully don't damage the pump later down the road.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bigger photo if needed: http://i.imgur.com/YkaEM6N.jpg
> 
> EDIT: Checked some forums and read deeper, I guess this is a common issue.


Any way you might be able to rotate the pump? Does the AMD bracket only go on the pump a single way?


----------



## savagebunny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Any way you might be able to rotate the pump? Does the AMD bracket only go on the pump a single way?


If I remember correctly, it only fit correctly this way. Also, how the hoses are oriented and my case, I can't put it any other way without stressing the hoses and causing any issues. I think I should contact Corsair or one of the reps here and see if I can get a straight cable.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagebunny*
> 
> If I remember correctly, it only fit correctly this way. Also, how the hoses are oriented and my case, I can't put it any other way without stressing the hoses and causing any issues. I think I should contact Corsair or one of the reps here and see if I can get a straight cable.


Something like this should work - an extension. Pretty cheap too.









http://www.amazon.com/YCS-Basics-Black-Female-Cable/dp/B00B5HSA3Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1432198500&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+mini+b+extension


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagebunny*
> 
> I've been curious for a while since I've had my h80i. I'm using the AM3+ bracket just a FYI. Anyways, the cable to the pump, it is a super tight fit and is bent atm so I can power the pump. Issues is where you can see is the securing screw is in the way with this bracket. Is there a fix for this or am I the only one who did this wrong? I was just gonna splice my own cable so I don't keep the USB end bent and hopefully don't damage the pump later down the road.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bigger photo if needed: http://i.imgur.com/YkaEM6N.jpg
> 
> EDIT: Checked some forums and read deeper, I guess this is a common issue.


Yes, that's on us but it shouldn't be a problem, we'll get that sorted out for you.. It's just a slight oversight that we can easily fix. Create a ticket describing the issue and request for this part, *CW-8960009*. That should take care of it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Something like this should work - an extension. Pretty cheap too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/YCS-Basics-Black-Female-Cable/dp/B00B5HSA3Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1432198500&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+mini+b+extension


This is also a good alternative, I am actually using that cable in my system


----------



## savagebunny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Yes, that's on us but it shouldn't be a problem, we'll get that sorted out for you.. It's just a slight oversight that we can easily fix. Create a ticket describing the issue and request for this part, *CW-8960009*. That should take care of it.
> This is also a good alternative, I am actually using that cable in my system


Good deal, appreciate it. Just opened up a ticket and go from there. Next step is attaching a 120x38 Delta fan. Will post results once I get new fasteners


----------



## MoInSTL

I have a Fractal R4. Just swapped my Sandy Bridge for an Asus X99-A, i7-5820k and 16GB of Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4. I'd like to front mount the radiator. I know it can be done and a 240 will fit the front fan bracket. I am tired of huge air coolers. Had an HR-02 Macho and decided to just do a CLC instead.

I have also seen other videos that really needs the radiator above the block. The Nepton 240M doesn't care according to Linus' review. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65-aR4o8iT4 3:20.

This is what I would like to do: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwgVA6_xIis Please go to the 3:00 mark and 15:00 I have both drive cages removed and have a cluster of SSD drives on the floor.

So I need to know if the Corsir H100i GTX is fussy about the vertical rad placement and if it's the best solution for a decent, but not crazy OC. I have a very cheap air cooler on it now as I knew I would replace it and wanted to make sure everything worked, as the new CPU no longer have the Intel heat-sink and fan. So at this point I don't even know how good or bad of a chip I have. I don't want to even try and mount it on the top as I prefer to keep it quiet by having the vents blocked.

Last but not least, does anyone know if the Link software is compatible with an X99. OS is Windows 7 Pro x64.

Thanks in advance for any tips or suggestions!


----------



## darkelixa

Lowering the pump from performance to quite still makes the same audible ticking sound, have changed to a Noctua nh-12s so I dont have this issue anymore.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoInSTL*
> 
> So I need to know if the Corsir H100i GTX is fussy about the vertical rad placement and if it's the best solution for a decent, but not crazy OC.
> 
> Last but not least, does anyone know if the Link software is compatible with an X99. OS is Windows 7 Pro x64.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any tips or suggestions!


How you mount the H100i GTX radiator will not affect the cooler's performance. Having it vertical or horizontal orientation doesn't matter because it's a close loop system.

Yes, Corsair Link is compatible with X99 platform and Windows 7








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Lowering the pump from performance to quite still makes the same audible ticking sound, have changed to a Noctua nh-12s so I dont have this issue anymore.


Was the clicking sound coming from the pump or the fan?


----------



## savagebunny

Just quick update regarding my cable issue, I put that ticket in, got a response, approval within 2 hrs, and shipping email 30 minutes ago.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagebunny*
> 
> Just quick update regarding my cable issue, I put that ticket in, got a response, approval within 2 hrs, and shipping email 30 minutes ago.


That's what I call good Customer Service....


----------



## savagebunny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> That's what I call good Customer Service....


Indeed, I was surprised how quick, also it was just a quick fix since it wasn't a full RMA of the cooler itself


----------



## blaze2210

Exactly, it's just a simple cable upgrade. A free solution is always nice as well.


----------



## MoInSTL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> How you mount the H100i GTX radiator will not affect the cooler's performance. Having it vertical or horizontal orientation doesn't matter because it's a close loop system.
> 
> Yes, Corsair Link is compatible with X99 platform and Windows 7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was the clicking sound coming from the pump or the fan?


Thanks, but the reports of 37 dB on performance is pretty loud for me. I thought I would replace the fans with Noctua, but then I read on the Corsair forums about problems with third party fans not being recognized by CL.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagebunny*
> 
> Just quick update regarding my cable issue, I put that ticket in, got a response, approval within 2 hrs, and shipping email 30 minutes ago.


Impressive! Those guys at customer service are doing a great job. I'll definitely let them know that they have a shoutout for their excellent support - good way to start their long weekend








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoInSTL*
> 
> Thanks, but the reports of 37 dB on performance is pretty loud for me. I thought I would replace the fans with Noctua, but then I read on the Corsair forums about problems with third party fans not being recognized by CL.


Yes, there are few claims that their after market fans are not being detected by C link, most of them are 3pin fans. You'll have a very good chance avoiding detection issue when using PWM fans.


----------



## darkelixa

The noise is 100% comming from the pump and not the fans, putting to quite mode suppresses the sound a little but in performance mode it is very noticable , does this mean I can return the unit for a new one?


----------



## tomterrific

Hello,

I'm installing an H100i in a 250D with an Asrock Z97E-itx/AC + i7-4790K and a pair of cougar CF-V12HP fans.

One note and one question:

Note: for anyone trying this build, if the hoses are in the back, the radiator won't fit if you install the fans on the outside of the radiator (between the radiator and the case side panel). The hose jams up against the USB/PS2 ports on that end of the IO panel. I'm going to move the fans on the other side. Hopefully by moving the radiator further from IO panel, there will be more flex in the hose. I'm configuring the fans as an intake.

Question: I mounted the cooling block last night but now I want to rotate it 270 degrees to better direct the pipes. I haven't powered the PC on yet. Can I reseat the block without cleaning and applying new TIM?


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomterrific*
> 
> Question: I mounted the cooling block last night but now I want to rotate it 270 degrees to better direct the pipes. I haven't powered the PC on yet. Can I reseat the block without cleaning and applying new TIM?


I don't think so because you might create air bubbles.


----------



## tomterrific

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> I don't think so because you might create air bubbles.


What's the recommended replacement TIM?


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomterrific*
> 
> What's the recommended replacement TIM?


On my H110 I have used Noctua NT-H1 and Prolimatech PK-3 Thermal compounds. They also talk highly of the Gelid GC-Extreme.


----------



## Tom Brohanks

Any chance you will be fixing Corsair Link any time soon? I can't control my fans. I even went as far as reloading Windows last night.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Brohanks*
> 
> Any chance you will be fixing Corsair Link any time soon? I can't control my fans. I even went as far as reloading Windows last night.


What version of Windows are you running, and what version of the Link software are you running? If you're running Win 8.1, you'll want to be running version 2.5.5145 of the Link software (got me the best results).








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> On my H110 I have used Noctua NT-H1 and Prolimatech PK-3 Thermal compounds. They also talk highly of the Gelid GC-Extreme.


I can vouch for the PK-3 and GC-Extreme, they're both top performers. Another really good TIM is Shin-Etsu X23-7783D.


----------



## LostParticle

Anyone here with an H110i GT ? Any impressions?


----------



## VSG

Yeah I have had one since launch, and on nearly 24/7. Good performer, especially if you take your time and put the fans on a nice curve.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah I have had one since launch, and on nearly 24/7. Good performer, especially if you take your time and put the fans on a nice curve.


Do you have it on your HTPC shown in your signature? 'Cause it shows an H100i there..


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Do you have it on your HTPC shown in your signature? 'Cause it shows an H100i there..


All 3 rigs need to be updated. The H110i though is on one of the test rigs I use when testing out fans, radiators, Corsair HG10 brackets, PSUs etc which is more often than not these days.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> All 3 rigs need to be updated. The H110i though is on one of the test rigs I use when testing out fans, radiators, Corsair HG10 brackets, PSUs etc which is more often than not these days.


Okay, thank you.

IF by any chance you have the results of a stress test, using an i7-4790K, showing the Core temps and the voltages in HWiNFO64 or any similar monitoring tool, I would love to see them. Otherwise, no problem, thanks for your contribution.


----------



## VSG

I'll do you one better. PM sent.


----------



## savagebunny

Thought I'd let ya know all, that I hooked up a 120x38mm fan atm. It's a Sanyo Denki H1011.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagebunny*
> 
> Thought I'd let ya know all, that I hooked up a 120x38mm fan atm. It's a Sanyo Denki H1011.


Any improvement in temps with that beast on there?


----------



## savagebunny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Any improvement in temps with that beast on there?


Well, my answer may sound a bit off because my ambient temps are changing a lot. I live next to the lake so it cools down a lot at night, hot/humid during the day.

If I'm loading using LinX when I was using the Corsair fans in this current ambient temp, I do remember it going up to 48-50c before (4.4Ghz FX6300). Now again, maybe 2c difference in ambient, and its peaking at 42c with the fan @ 100% 12V with my fan controller. This is only in push too.

I would've put my 144cfm Delta fan on there I stole from a old Dell chassis, but I can't find it in my house atm. Still looking. I got 2 of these H1011 and 1x Panaflo on stand by

EDIT: According to the spec sheet, The cooler w/ Corsair fans is 4.0mm Static H20, and this single fan is 6.6mm Static H20

IF anyone is interested in doing this, I can post the machine screw size you need to buy @ Home Depot or Lowes or whatever hardware store you shop at. Also, I recommend to NOT run these powerful fans off the motherboard. Yes, there is information you can run these off the motherboard headers without issues, but I've never done it or risk it. Plus, don't wanna hook up the fan to the CPU Header/Pump harness. I have mine on a fan controller thus I can down volt to 6v and its silent.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagebunny*
> 
> Well, my answer may sound a bit off because my ambient temps are changing a lot. I live next to the lake so it cools down a lot at night, hot/humid during the day.
> 
> If I'm loading using LinX when I was using the Corsair fans in this current ambient temp, I do remember it going up to 48-50c before (4.4Ghz FX6300). Now again, maybe 2c difference in ambient, and its peaking at 42c with the fan @ 100% 12V with my fan controller. This is only in push too.
> 
> I would've put my 144cfm Delta fan on there I stole from a old Dell chassis, but I can't find it in my house atm. Still looking. I got 2 of these H1011 and 1x Panaflo on stand by
> 
> EDIT: According to the spec sheet, The cooler w/ Corsair fans is 4.0mm Static H20, and this single fan is 6.6mm Static H20
> 
> IF anyone is interested in doing this, I can post the machine screw size you need to buy @ Home Depot or Lowes or whatever hardware store you shop at. Also, I recommend to NOT run these powerful fans off the motherboard. Yes, there is information you can run these off the motherboard headers without issues, but I've never done it or risk it. Plus, don't wanna hook up the fan to the CPU Header/Pump harness. I have mine on a fan controller thus I can down volt to 6v and its silent.


Ok, that sounds pretty good. Even accounting for the possible difference in ambients, you're still looking at around a 5*C or so drop. That's a pretty decent drop.


----------



## savagebunny

Ya it's not too shabby. Also, when it was really cool out, like 12-15C outside, I was only loading at before < 38c with the Corsair fans. Ambient temps make a world of difference. But yes I'd agree, its ROUGHLY about a 5c drop which is great. I wasn't even close to overheating, but I wanted a bigger fan because why not


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagebunny*
> 
> Ya it's not too shabby. Also, when it was really cool out, like 12-15C outside, I was only loading at before < 38c with the Corsair fans. Ambient temps make a world of difference. But yes I'd agree, its ROUGHLY about a 5c drop which is great. I wasn't even close to overheating, but I wanted a bigger fan because why not


Yep, ambients are definitely an important factor. I love the Winter season, that's when I did the bulk of my "more daring" overclocks since I gained more thermal headroom. I want those fans for the same reason: Why not?


----------



## savagebunny

Ya I feel ya, I got AC now so it isn't that big of a issue. I got these H1011 fans when I was 17 iirc, so they don't sell them anymore. They only have the newer revision ones the last time I looked and the crazy 141+cfm Delta fans which I love so much. Good thing about these fans, they don't seqeel or make any sounds when you under volt them to 6v. Delta fans like mine, they make a little sound when you do it initially or start up, but besides that the fans don't mind. Now its super quiet in my room


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagebunny*
> 
> Ya I feel ya, I got AC now so it isn't that big of a issue. I got these H1011 fans when I was 17 iirc, so they don't sell them anymore. They only have the newer revision ones the last time I looked and the crazy 141+cfm Delta fans which I love so much


The Deltas were the actual ones I was checking out on FrozenCPU, they have some ridiculous specs. I wanted them for the Hyper 212 EVO I had, then the Kuhler 620, and finally I still want them for my current H100i. I want 4 of them now though - at least.


----------



## savagebunny

Hell man they are totally worth it. If you got room for 120x38, and not for looks and fancy looking fans and only looking for performance, Delta, Panaflo, Sanyo Denki fans are the ****. Should mention my Panaflo also undervolted well too. I got a basic Sunbeam fan controller. LED turns Red when it hits 6v so I run it right above when it switches colour. I'm getting away with just a push fan, I have room for another but dont think its needed


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagebunny*
> 
> Hell man they are totally worth it. If you got room for 120x38, and not for looks and fancy looking fans and only looking for performance, Delta, Panaflo, Sanyo Denki fans are the ****. Should mention my Panaflo also undervolted well too. I got a basic Sunbeam fan controller. LED turns Red when it hits 6v so I run it right above when it switches colour. I'm getting away with just a push fan, I have room for another but dont think its needed


I don't think I'd be able to run push/pull without obstructing the CPU and RAM area, but I can certainly do one or the other. I do have other parts of my case that can take those though. I currently have 9 fans, with 4 of them being on the H100i, so I still have spaces where I can put 5 more. That would be some serious air movement.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ran P/P in my 932 when I had an h50. Worked really well but the setup used a lot of my 5.25" bay. Out of the 5 avaible slots it took up 2 an a quarter exhausting out the top. My average temps were in the low 40c region as well.









~Ceadder


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> The noise is 100% comming from the pump and not the fans, putting to quite mode suppresses the sound a little but in performance mode it is very noticable , does this mean I can return the unit for a new one?


Its a newly installed unit right? If so, give it a couple days and let whatever trapped air in the loop work itself way out. If it persist after a week or so, then maybe that's time I'd consider getting it swapped for a new one.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Brohanks*
> 
> Any chance you will be fixing Corsair Link any time soon? I can't control my fans. I even went as far as reloading Windows last night.


Have you tried what blaze suggested? using a previous version for C Link? Also, it's worth a shot moving the USB link connector to a different USB header on your MB.


----------



## savagebunny

To piggy back what Joesph, it took a few days for my h80i to stop making weird noises which I presumed it was air in the system. Its been quiet since then. Make sure @Tom Brohanks it's connected to a USB 2.0 header of your choice and you run clink as Admin. That's what I had to do and worked flawlessly


----------



## ozea

Does it make any difference in temps if I change the factory applied thermal paste for some quality aftermarket one in H110i GT with I7-4790K?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozea*
> 
> Does it make any difference in temps if I change the factory applied thermal paste for some quality aftermarket one in H110i GT with I7-4790K?


That would depend on what paste you're thinking of replacing it with. Example: if you're thinking AS5, then you'll be better off with the stock TIM. If you're going with like Shin-Etsu, PK-3, GC-Extreme (to name a couple), then you'll see a benefit.


----------



## Ceadderman

I've used G751 and 7783 with the h50 that I lapped the plate on. My temps went down approximately 10c +/- with that running the unit in P/P With a shroud after push fan.









~Ceadder


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I've used G751 and 7783 with the h50 that I lapped the plate on. My temps went down approximately 10c +/- with that running the unit in P/P With a shroud after push fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I like the 7783, it's really good stuff and spreads like cold peanut butter. It's definitely one of my personal favorites.


----------



## darkelixa

Reinstalled the H100i gtx again, noise has almost gone away, yet the idle temps are 33 vs 26-28 with the noctua u12s and at load in ffxiv I get 44 on air and 50 with the H100i gtx. Seems like an overpriced/unperformed cooler the h100igtx


----------



## savagebunny

Alright guys, It's time to mount a Delta fan on my H80i, finally found it. It's a 148 CFM fan, lmao, and 15.29 mm H²O


http://www.ayagroup.com/product.php?productid=18800
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Reinstalled the H100i gtx again, noise has almost gone away, yet the idle temps are 33 vs 26-28 with the noctua u12s and at load in ffxiv I get 44 on air and 50 with the H100i gtx. Seems like an overpriced/unperformed cooler the h100igtx


What CPU are you trying to cool? Are you overclocked? What is your ambient temp/dew point/humidity etc? It's warm out today and my AC is working overtime so my temps is about 10c higher than normal because of my ambient is 5c warmer and dew point spiked


----------



## VSG

Hopefully you aren't going to try and power it off a motherboard header. That fan is consuming a ton of power.


----------



## savagebunny

Nope, I've ran this fan before for a 2 years off a fan controller. That's how I'm running my Sanyo Denki on the h80i atm. I don't ever run any 120x38 fans off any fan header on motherboards, specially 1.6A fans


----------



## VSG




----------



## savagebunny

Gonna prepare for take off soon. Gonna be a fun time.


----------



## VSG

Consider getting a grill on both sides


----------



## savagebunny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Consider getting a grill on both sides


I've accidentally one time had to move a wire, and hit my pinky into the fins @ full 1.6A... Lets just say I wasn't too happy. I could get a grill, but it's more entertaining living on the edge if I ever hit the fins with my fingers


----------



## darkelixa

Its a 4790k at stock clock speeds, running in 25 c air conditioned room


----------



## savagebunny

You got HT on right? 25c is still a pretty warm room, and HT adds quite a bit of heats. Also in Corsair Link, make sure the pump is in performance mode also. Hell, my AMD FX-6300 @ 4.6 with 1.43V runs cooler than your 4790k at stock and I'm using a H80i


----------



## darkelixa

Yes HT is on,25 to me is pretty darn comfy and cozy Yes I had the pump and the fans both on performance, Noctua in game right now at 35 degrees


----------



## Extreme2

h100i out side mod


----------



## rotorwash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Extreme2*
> 
> h100i out side mod


I may try an outside mod just for grins. Thanks for the tip and photo!


----------



## rotorwash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Yes HT is on,25 to me is pretty darn comfy and cozy Yes I had the pump and the fans both on performance, Noctua in game right now at 35 degrees


Although your ambient is a little warm for me, my computer room sometimes get to 25c or greater. My H100i/4790k keeps chugging along at around 30c during light work like browsing or email. When idle, the temps are around 26-28c with the fans idling at around 725 rpm. When I have 8 threads @ 100% ([email protected] or rendering video or compiling) it gets to about 70c with the fans running at around 1400 rpm. My ambient is 23c, with the stock fans pushing(edit: or pulling?) out of the case and stock TIM. I am using CorsairLink to ramp the radiator fans and AISuite 3 to ramp the case fans.

As a aside: My stock fans are starting to make that *grinding noise* I've read about at idle and it is quite annoying. The noise is just enough to be noticeable. I am thinking of replacing the stock fans but have not heard of an aftermarket fan that has the static pressure and quietness of the stock fan. Any ideas anyone? Oh, I've heard the Scythe's and they sound very nice but I am wondering about the SP.

P.S. I have been running my rig (see profile) for about 10 month.

edit: I am running stock (4.0 - 4.4Mhz)


----------



## jorpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotorwash*
> 
> Although your ambient is a little warm for me, my computer room sometimes get to 25c or greater. My H100i/4790k keeps chugging along at around 30c during light work like browsing or email. When idle, the temps are around 26-28c with the fans idling at around 725 rpm. When I have 8 threads @ 100% ([email protected] or rendering video or compiling) it gets to about 70c with the fans running at around 1400 rpm. My ambient is 23c, with the stock fans pushing(edit: or pulling?) out of the case and stock TIM. I am using CorsairLink to ramp the radiator fans and AISuite 3 to ramp the case fans.
> 
> As a aside: My stock fans are starting to make that *grinding noise* I've read about at idle and it is quite annoying. The noise is just enough to be noticeable. I am thinking of replacing the stock fans but have not heard of an aftermarket fan that has the static pressure and quietness of the stock fan. Any ideas anyone? Oh, I've heard the Scythe's and they sound very nice but I am wondering about the SP.
> 
> P.S. I have been running my rig (see profile) for about 10 month.


I replaced the stock fans on my h110 with these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFCRMSG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 noctua fans. No real difference in temp going from the stock fan setup to a 3 fan push pull setup (the 4th wouldnt clear the power connector on the top left of the mobo. They're slightly louder though. With my 4790k at 5.01ghz and 1.395V it kept them under 80C at full load, but I didnt do any extended testing and it was really loud. With the room at 22.5C it was idling at 27C and never gets over 60C when running handbrake, gaming, or compiling isos.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jorpe*
> 
> I replaced the stock fans on my h110 with these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFCRMSG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 noctua fans. No real difference in temp going from the stock fan setup to a 3 fan push pull setup (the 4th wouldnt clear the power connector on the top left of the mobo. They're slightly louder though. With my 4790k at 5.01ghz and 1.395V it kept them under 80C at full load, but I didnt do any extended testing and it was really loud. With the room at 22.5C it was idling at 27C and never gets over 60C when running handbrake, gaming, or compiling isos.


That brown is just hideous. Their choice of colors schemes is the main reason I stay away from Noctua. They may be quiet, but they're ugly.


----------



## jorpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> That brown is just hideous. Their choice of colors schemes is the main reason I stay away from Noctua. They may be quiet, but they're ugly.


not nearly as bad in person as in the pic, but yeah. not aesthetically pleasing nonetheless


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jorpe*
> 
> not nearly as bad in person as in the pic, but yeah. not aesthetically pleasing nonetheless


Brown is brown, tan is tan. Even if you can't really see it, I would know that the corners are this poo-brown color. That's a very odd choice of color to use as a "signature color", it does stand out from the competition though - I do have to give them that.


----------



## Saint Chewy

I just installed my brand new H100i GTX today. Super excited to finally made the switch to liquid cooling. Temps are great, and both the pump and fans are super quiet. All I hear is a very slight hum which is outstanding! But I gotta be honest though, I am super nervous about it leaking. Thats still a thing right?


----------



## savagebunny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saint Chewy*
> 
> I just installed my brand new H100i GTX today. Super excited to finally made the switch to liquid cooling. Temps are great, and both the pump and fans are super quiet. All I hear is a very slight hum which is outstanding! But I gotta be honest though, I am super nervous about it leaking. Thats still a thing right?


Ya man it's a very tight system. I'm not worried about it one bit.


----------



## PerfectTekniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotorwash*
> 
> I may try an outside mod just for grins. Thanks for the tip and photo!


Someone say "outside mod"


----------



## NKrader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Brown is brown, tan is tan. Even if you can't really see it, I would know that the corners are this poo-brown color. That's a very odd choice of color to use as a "signature color", it does stand out from the competition though - I do have to give them that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jorpe*
> 
> not nearly as bad in person as in the pic, but yeah. not aesthetically pleasing nonetheless


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> That brown is just hideous. Their choice of colors schemes is the main reason I stay away from Noctua. They may be quiet, but they're ugly.


You know they sell black and grey fans right?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NKrader*
> 
> You know they sell black and grey fans right?


Nope, I didn't know that. The vast majority of their fans incorporate brown though, it's practically their signature. If they make one now that uses grey instead of brown, that should look significantly better (in my opinion).


----------



## rotorwash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saint Chewy*
> 
> I just installed my brand new H100i GTX today. Super excited to finally made the switch to liquid cooling. Temps are great, and both the pump and fans are super quiet. All I hear is a very slight hum which is outstanding! But I gotta be honest though, I am super nervous about it leaking. Thats still a thing right?


Mine doesn't leak... I was slightly anxious when I bought my H100i but now, meh.


----------



## rotorwash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PerfectTekniq*
> 
> images deleted.
> 
> Someone say "outside mod"


That is a good outside mod. You all are giving me ideas for an outside mod on my Define R4. Thanks OC'ers.

P.S. How does one hide images with a spoiler alert (can't find it is editor.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Reinstalled the H100i gtx again, noise has almost gone away, yet the idle temps are 33 vs 26-28 with the noctua u12s and at load in ffxiv I get 44 on air and 50 with the H100i gtx. Seems like an overpriced/unperformed cooler the h100igtx


Those temps aren't that bad, but the fact that you are getting better results with air is what's bugging me. Did you make sure that you have a full contact between the coldplate and CPU? Poor contact could be the reason why your load temps are higher than Air cooling.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotorwash*
> 
> As a aside: My stock fans are starting to make that *grinding noise* I've read about at idle and it is quite annoying. The noise is just enough to be noticeable. I am thinking of replacing the stock fans but have not heard of an aftermarket fan that has the static pressure and quietness of the stock fan. Any ideas anyone? Oh, I've heard the Scythe's and they sound very nice but I am wondering about the SP.
> 
> P.S. I have been running my rig (see profile) for about 10 month.
> 
> edit: I am running stock (4.0 - 4.4Mhz)


What about at high rpm? do you get the grinding noise too? Try pushing the center part of the fan, it's possible that the motor housing is a little loose causing the grinding noise at low speed.


----------



## TK421

Hello corsair joseph, can you answer some questions with the H80i GT?

I've seen the pump need a SATA+3pin pwr connection, is this true or false? Can the unit run without the default fans attached?

For the pump, the pump rpm can be controlled via software? Is it possible for a user to just use a direct 3pin / sata connection to pump (without installing software) and run it at full speed 24/7?

Regarding the corsair link. Can I run the corsair link just to set LED color once and uninstall the usb cable/software, does the software reset the unit to default setting (pump rpm range, fan range) if it's unplugged from the pc?

Thanks in advance


----------



## rotorwash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> ...
> 
> What about at high rpm? do you get the grinding noise too? Try pushing the center part of the fan, it's possible that the motor housing is a little loose causing the grinding noise at low speed.


All of the grinding symptoms are at low speed(700 - 950 rpm), at high speeds the wind noise drowns out the grinding noise (as stated in my original post, the noise is slight but noticeable). I tried moving the fans slightly, tweaking the case a bit, thinking it could be a resonance problem, and playing with the fan "core". The problem is the fan and it has been noted on various web sites. There is also a youtube video on the H100i that demonstrates it (you can listen specifically to the grinding noise at idle). I do not have the URL(s) at the moment. I need new fans because this is starting to drive me nuts, the noise is almost subliminal and messes with my mind







@Corsair Joseph, are the "new" SP120 fans different than the mid-2014 fans installed on a H100i?


----------



## VSG

For the 120mm offerings from Corsair, the SP120 LED fans are a significant improvement over the retail ring versions as well as the L OEM versions.


----------



## PerfectTekniq

Would it be benificial to move the OEM 120's to the top of my rad to pull and add 2 SP120's to push?


----------



## VSG

As with any radiator, push-pull will provide benefits. You can get higher performance with there being an increase in max airflow through the radiator, or you can opt for similar performance but at lower noise levels.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Hello corsair joseph, can you answer some questions with the H80i GT?
> 
> I've seen the pump need a SATA+3pin pwr connection, is this true or false? Can the unit run without the default fans attached?
> 
> For the pump, the pump rpm can be controlled via software? Is it possible for a user to just use a direct 3pin / sata connection to pump (without installing software) and run it at full speed 24/7?
> 
> Regarding the corsair link. Can I run the corsair link just to set LED color once and uninstall the usb cable/software, does the software reset the unit to default setting (pump rpm range, fan range) if it's unplugged from the pc?
> 
> Thanks in advance


Hey TK421,

The unit is powered by a SATA connector, the 3pin connector is for the pump's rpm sensor. Yes, the unit will run w/o the stock fans. You can use third party fans if you want to.

Yes, you can control the pump's rpm via Corsair Link software. Yes, you can just plug the SATA and let the pump run at max rpm all the time (24/7).

Yes, you can pretty much create the profile that you want (pump speed, LED, fan rpm, etc) then uninstall Corsair Link and it'll just keep the last profile you created/saved every time you fire up your system.

As a side note: Fan curve based on temp or load will not be saved, just the fix rpm, because the fan curve in which the fan will behave is driven by the Corsair Link Software.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotorwash*
> 
> All of the grinding symptoms are at low speed(700 - 950 rpm), at high speeds the wind noise drowns out the grinding noise (as stated in my original post, the noise is slight but noticeable). I tried moving the fans slightly, tweaking the case a bit, thinking it could be a resonance problem, and playing with the fan "core". The problem is the fan and it has been noted on various web sites. There is also a youtube video on the H100i that demonstrates it (you can listen specifically to the grinding noise at idle). I do not have the URL(s) at the moment. I need new fans because this is starting to drive me nuts, the noise is almost subliminal and messes with my mind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Corsair Joseph, are the "new" SP120 fans different than the mid-2014 fans installed on a H100i?


If those fans are really bothering you, I can always arrange replacement fans for you if you like. Just submit an RMA request at Corsair.force.com and we'll get you a replacement.

The SP120 fans are the retail version of the H100i stock fans, aside from the changeable rings, specs are different. The stock fans have better static pressure and CFM.

oh and btw, those stock fans that you have, are those 3pin or 4pin?


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Hey TK421,
> 
> The unit is powered by a SATA connector, the 3pin connector is for the pump's rpm sensor. Yes, the unit will run w/o the stock fans. You can use third party fans if you want to.
> 
> Yes, you can control the pump's rpm via Corsair Link software. Yes, you can just plug the SATA and let the pump run at max rpm all the time (24/7).
> 
> Yes, you can pretty much create the profile that you want (pump speed, LED, fan rpm, etc) then uninstall Corsair Link and it'll just keep the last profile you created/saved every time you fire up your system.
> 
> As a side note: Fan curve based on temp or load will not be saved, just the fix rpm, because the fan curve in which the fan will behave is driven by the Corsair Link Software.
> If those fans are really bothering you, I can always arrange replacement fans for you if you like. Just submit an RMA request at Corsair.force.com and we'll get you a replacement.
> 
> The SP120 fans are the retail version of the H100i stock fans, aside from the changeable rings, specs are different. The stock fans have better static pressure and CFM.
> 
> oh and btw, those stock fans that you have, are those 3pin or 4pin?


I'll be buying the cooler next week, thanks for the answers!


----------



## rotorwash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> ...
> 
> The SP120 fans are the retail version of the H100i stock fans, aside from the changeable rings, specs are different. The stock fans have better static pressure and CFM.
> 
> oh and btw, those stock fans that you have, are those 3pin or 4pin?


They are 4-pin fans.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> I'll be buying the cooler next week, thanks for the answers!


No problem at all.. post back some feedback when you have the cooler installed








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotorwash*
> 
> They are 4-pin fans.


Then the grinding noise shouldn't happening. Submit the request and we'll get you a pair.


----------



## rotorwash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> ...
> 
> Then the grinding shouldn't happening. Submit the request and we'll get you a pair.


Thanks submitted RMA request.


----------



## darkelixa

Correct there is full contact with the cooler to the backplate, as per said instructions on youtube and your manual


----------



## PerfectTekniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> As with any radiator, push-pull will provide benefits. You can get higher performance with there being an increase in max airflow through the radiator, or you can opt for similar performance but at lower noise levels.


Thank you. I was wondering if using 2 different types of fans would be beneficial in any way. I wasn't sure if the fans with the lower CFM would bottleneck the other fans. Thanks again!


----------



## Ceadderman

In P/P or both types sitting side by side?

In any case...

In push pull, so long as the slower rated fan is setup in pull it should be okay. It's not recommended because the higher rated fan will push it to the same spec that it(push) is running an if I remember correctly will make rpm readouts wrong. You won't want the higher rated fan in pull due to this same logic either.

Side by side it will make no discernable difference in temps although it might limit performance if one of them has a lower performance curve than stock.

Does this make sense? Hopefully I haven't lost everyone in my layman's breakdown.









~Ceadder


----------



## PerfectTekniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> In P/P or both types sitting side by side?
> 
> In any case...
> 
> In push pull, so long as the slower rated fan is setup in pull it should be okay. It's not recommended because the higher rated fan will push it to the same spec that it(push) is running an if I remember correctly will make rpm readouts wrong. You won't want the higher rated fan in pull due to this same logic either.
> 
> Side by side it will make no discernable difference in temps although it might limit performance if one of them has a lower performance curve than stock.
> 
> Does this make sense? Hopefully I haven't lost everyone in my layman's breakdown.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I understood thank you.








I have two SP120s and want to have them push while the two stock (SP120L) where pulling. Seeing as I think the different in output is minimal I should be okay.

I have these extra fans sitting around and figured I'd put them to use.


----------



## Ceadderman

Find out what the rated speeds are and make the slower ones pull. Yeah they may be similar but if stock fans are slower, an I suspect they are, then those should go on the pull side.









~Ceadder


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Correct there is full contact with the cooler to the backplate, as per said instructions on youtube and your manual


Do you still have the cooler installed? If so, try running Prime and post the temp that you'll get under load.


----------



## darkelixa

No I have gone back to the Noctua once again as it looks to be oil or some sort of liquid comming from the top part of the barbs near the radiator so I would rather not re install it again for the 4th time,tried to take some photos but it doesnt really show what you can see in person as the black is so predominate on the picture. When it was installed with prime it would hit around 65 degrees


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Yes, I agree. If you know for sure that there's some kind of liquid present around the barbs, it's best that you leave it out of your system and not take the risk.

If you are still within your store's return policy, I'd suggest that you have it swapped out. if not, we can always take it back via RMA process. You'll just have to submit a ticket for it. Corsair.force.com.


----------



## TK421

Have anyone tried to replace the stock TIM on an H80i GT?

How much degrees have you reduced by swapping over to another TIM?


----------



## savagebunny

I just swapped mine to MX-4 because I bought a new mobo/cpu so I can't tell you if it did better or now. It's keeping my 4790k cool though. Also have the h80i GT. The only thing I also did was put on a 120x38mm fan


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagebunny*
> 
> I just swapped mine to MX-4 because I bought a new mobo/cpu so I can't tell you if it did better or now. It's keeping my 4790k cool though. Also have the h80i GT. The only thing I also did was put on a 120x38mm fan


Vcore/freq and load temp?
What fan is 38mm thick? Delta?


----------



## savagebunny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Vcore/freq and load temp?
> What fan is 38mm thick? Delta?


\

4790k X509B668 1.186v vcore load.
BF4 Load, 54,58,54,53c
GTA:V 65-70c.
Sanyo Denki fan atm. Set to 6v during both of those games. 25c ambient

Many fans are 120x38, Sanyo Denki, Panaflo, Delta.

Stock atm, too lazy to OC right now


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagebunny*
> 
> \
> 
> 4790k X509B668 1.186v vcore load.
> BF4 Load, 54,58,54,53c
> GTA:V 65-70c.
> Sanyo Denki fan atm. Set to 6v during both of those games. 25c ambient
> 
> Many fans are 120x38, Sanyo Denki, Panaflo, Delta.
> 
> Stock atm, too lazy to OC right now


ok thanks

How much watts / 12v ampere does one fan header on the H80i GT support?


----------



## savagebunny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> ok thanks
> 
> How much watts / 12v ampere does one fan header on the H80i GT support?


I'll be honest, I have no idea. My fan is 0.38a and I have a fan controller so I do my own settings instead of relying on software. That would be a question for Corsair_Joesph because those 4 pins are also running off the CPU Fan header powering the pump.

My opinion, don't run any fan 0.50a or larger. I believe 0.38a would be fine

For the hell of it, I just ran my fan off the 4 pin, and it powered up fine, but wasn't running 100% speed. Not sure on 24/7 usage though if it would be safe


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagebunny*
> 
> I'll be honest, I have no idea. My fan is 0.38a and I have a fan controller so I do my own settings instead of relying on software. That would be a question for Corsair_Joesph because those 4 pins are also running off the CPU Fan header powering the pump.
> 
> My opinion, don't run any fan 0.50a or larger. I believe 0.38a would be fine
> 
> For the hell of it, I just ran my fan off the 4 pin, and it powered up fine, but wasn't running 100% speed. Not sure on 24/7 usage though if it would be safe


so the fan hub on the pump is a straight passtrough to the motherboard header?


----------



## savagebunny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> so the fan hub on the pump is a straight passtrough to the motherboard header?


Yup. CPU Header Wire > Pump which powers the pump.

Then external 2 wires from the pump to power the 2x fans from Corsair. Acutally the 2x Corsair fans are combined 0.56a running at 100%, so ya you can easily run a larger single fan with no issues


----------



## darkelixa

Subbmiting an RMA to corsair for the h100igtx, lets see how RMA is handled


----------



## darkelixa

The bottom no matter how hard I try to clean it.....


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bottom no matter how hard I try to clean it.....


What thermal compound was on there, and what did you try using to clean it? Alcohol doesn't do that.....


----------



## darkelixa

Used artic 5 silver compound artic silver remover


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks like he might have tried using CLU/CLP. Not sure.I would suggest hitting up Radio Shack for some Arctic Clean and Conditioner and see if that fixes the issue. I generally use 90% Isopropyl to clean CPU/Cooling bases. But more difficult surfaces I use ACnC.









Ninja'ed









~Ceadder


----------



## darkelixa

Those ones


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup but I don't suggest AS5 due to 8 day burn in time. I use Shin Etsu G751 or MX4. Both of their BI times is around ~8hrs. And *both* perform just as good.









Have you considered roughing up the surface with some fine grit papers? I used a glass pane and taped fine grit (1k, 1.5k, and 2k grit papers) and lapped my h50 to a mirror finish back when I owned it. Looks like that may be your best bet. Take heart though, unless the surface is burnt, it shouldn't mess with your temps. Lapping the plate only evens the surface enough to allow better TIM coverage to minimize filling the valleys of the cooling plate. You cannot see them with the naked eye. But they are there nonetheless.









~Ceadder


----------



## darkelixa

Not really sure if I should try anymore to clean it as it is going to be rmaed


----------



## Ceadderman

I wouldn't sweat it then.










~Ceadder


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Subbmiting an RMA to corsair for the h100igtx, lets see how RMA is handled


Post your ticket # so I can help and make sure that it is handled accordingly.


----------



## darkelixa

Ticket 6633267


----------



## TK421

Anyone here use H80i GT with their X99 system?

I hit 92c on 1.168 5820K (dell Asetek 869, 35mm 120, single 1850GT pull) and wondering how others fare.

According to this review, H80i GT can keep 1.45v 5980x under 80c prime95: http://www.hardwareheaven.com/content/reviews/cooling/53648/corsair-h80i-gt-review

Seems too good to be true?


----------



## VSG

The more the heat dissipation load, the higher the advantage of the liquid coolers. That being said, that does seem pretty optimistic. I have a H80i GT on the way soon so I will check it out with my own 5960x.

Also, don't use Prime95 unless you really need the AVX instruction based stability testing.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The more the heat dissipation load, the higher the advantage of the liquid coolers. That being said, that does seem pretty optimistic. I have a H80i GT on the way soon so I will check it out with my own 5960x.
> 
> Also, don't use Prime95 unless you really need the AVX instruction based stability testing.


92c is with IBT, I don't dare run Prime95 on this cooler


----------



## VSG

IBT on max stresses the CPU more than Prime95, atleast in my findings


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> IBT on max stresses the CPU more than Prime95, atleast in my findings


even more so than small FFTs?


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Ticket 6633267


I've got that approved for you. You will receive further instruction from our customers service momentarily. If you have questions about the process, you can always contact me via ticket.


----------



## Ceadderman

Always lookin out for your Customers...









*THAT'S* the Corsair Joseph way!









~Ceadder


----------



## darkelixa

Thanks for approving the RMA so quick However after paying $189 for the gpu, 60 for shipping , and now another 60 to send back for RMA I might just leave it sit in a corner, $309 for a cooler is just out of my league right now as I just bought the New final fantasy expansion. Going to be at least 3 weeks until I can afford shipping back


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Thanks for approving the RMA so quick However after paying $189 for the gpu, 60 for shipping , and now another 60 to send back for RMA I might just leave it sit in a corner, $309 for a cooler is just out of my league right now as I just bought the New final fantasy expansion. Going to be at least 3 weeks until I can afford shipping back


This is why you should always buy from microcenter...


----------



## darkelixa

No such thing as Micro centre in Australia


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Thanks for approving the RMA so quick However after paying $189 for the gpu, 60 for shipping , and now another 60 to send back for RMA I might just leave it sit in a corner, $309 for a cooler is just out of my league right now as I just bought the New final fantasy expansion. Going to be at least 3 weeks until I can afford shipping back


Got that covered as well. An email will be sent to you shortly with much more details


----------



## Clos

Quick qeustion for you guys, would a h80 be sufficient to cool a 2011 and/or 2011-3 socket?


----------



## darkelixa

Thank you so much Joseph


----------



## jamtin

Finding stability using IntelBurnTest is much quicker than trying to get stable using Prime95 imo. Yes, IBT is a better stressing method than using small FFTs with Prime95. No we don't really have anything like a Microcenter in Australia although we do have two companies that have a stranglehold on the retail pc hardware market (with identical prices) so we are forced to pay what they want.


----------



## schmotty

I just added myself but since I'm an ignorant donkey I put my OCN name as H110.


----------



## kcuestag

Here's a picture of my rig with my recently purchased H110i GT:



May not be as good as a custom water loop, but I don't miss that at all.


----------



## enkrypt3d

My rig

AMD FX 8350 @ 4Ghz w/ Corsair H100i cooler
32 GB G.Skill RAM
MSI 990FX-GD80v2 Motherboard
2 x EVGA GTX 980 SC ACX 2.0 videocards in SLI
1300W EVGA SuperNova PSU
OCZ Revodrive 240GB SSD
3 x 4TB SATA 6 in RAID 5
Intel 240GB SSD
Corsair 800D Case

I'm wondering since I have the revodrive between the gpu's, it takes the bottom PCI lane to 8x instead of having both at 16x... does that affect my performance? It doesn't seem to if at all... although I'm sure a newer CPU & motherboard would be the next upgrade.


----------



## rotorwash

Sweet rig!


----------



## philhalo66

one of my H100i fans stopped working, it wont even spin up now and the other one grinds for a few seconds before it warms up. will corsair replace them or am i going to have to buy new ones?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> one of my H100i fans stopped working, it wont even spin up now and the other one grinds for a few seconds before it warms up. will corsair replace them or am i going to have to buy new ones?


This is a no brainer if you purchased it new ... 5 year warranty! And yes they will replace just the fans








If you have other concerns either wait or hit up "Corsair Joseph" (advanced search within this thread *HERE*) ... He may be the best/most helpful manufacturer rep on OCN ... I won't bother with the other AIO's because of him!


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> This is a no brainer if you purchased it new ... 5 year warranty! And yes they will replace just the fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you have other concerns either wait or hit up "Corsair Joseph" (advanced search within this thread *HERE*) ... He may be the best/most helpful manufacturer rep on OCN ... I won't bother with the other AIO's because of him!


great i was worried about that. thanks +rep for you.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here's a picture of my rig with my recently purchased H110i GT:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May not be as good as a custom water loop, but I don't miss that at all.


You've got a nice rig there.. how's that new cooler working out for you?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkrypt3d*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love that case, such a classic!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> one of my H100i fans stopped working, it wont even spin up now and the other one grinds for a few seconds before it warms up. will corsair replace them or am i going to have to buy new ones?


PM sent. We'll get that sorted out for you.


----------



## enkrypt3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Love that case, such a classic!]
> 
> Thanks! now i kind of wish i got the corsair PSU to plug into my corairlink but ah well! yea i love this case!


----------



## TK421

Can we get a 360 version of the H100i GTX?


----------



## darkelixa

Rma approved over a week ago with no instructions on how to return back, still waiting for a pre paid label to send back....


----------



## Ceadderman

I may be wrong but either the instructions are in the approval mail or they sent you one with a replacement unit.










~Ceadder


----------



## wanako

H80i on my 4790K @ 4.7GHz


----------



## sakete

I returned my h110i gt as i wasn't getting significantly better temps than my Noctua NH-D15 air cooler, while it did generate a lot more noise.


----------



## PerfectTekniq

Very nice.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Rma approved over a week ago with no instructions on how to return back, still waiting for a pre paid label to send back....


I just asked our customer service and according to them, the label was sent to your e-mail 6/10 including the tracking #. It might have ended up in your junk email/spam folder, so please double check. If nothing there, let me know.

Edit: I just sent you a reply in your ticket.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakete*
> 
> I returned my h110i gt as i wasn't getting significantly better temps than my Noctua NH-D15 air cooler, while it did generate a lot more noise.


Sorry to hear that the cooler didn't work out for you.


----------



## darkelixa

Sorry no email apart from the one saying I have to pay for return shipping and nothing in my junk mail


----------



## sakete

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> I just asked our customer service and according to them, the label was sent to your e-mail 6/10 including the tracking #. It might have ended up in your junk email/spam folder, so please double check. If nothing there, let me know.
> 
> Edit: I just sent you a reply in your ticket.
> Sorry to hear that the cooler didn't work out for you.


Yeah, I was actually a bit surprised. At first the Temps were higher than what I would get with an air cooler (granted, it's one of the best air coolers out there at the moment). Eventually discovered that the copper plate wasn't making full contact with the cpu heat spreader and I played around with it, but never managed to make 100% contact. Perhaps the copper plate wasn't perfectly flat? Anyway, didn't wanna bother anymore, and besides, the fans were too loud for my liking. To get it to acceptable noise levels I would've had to invest in other fans that would have been quieter.


----------



## jorpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wanako*
> 
> H80i on my 4790K @ 4.7GHz


That's purdy


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Sorry no email apart from the one saying I have to pay for return shipping and nothing in my junk mail


That's really weird, customer service is normally sharp when it comes to providing label. No worries, I'll have it re sent. It may take a couple of days since its the weekends, but this time I'll make sure that you get it.


----------



## VSG

Small teaser on Hydro HG10 N780:


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Small teaser on Hydro HG10 N780


Nice !
Are we gonna see a review pretty soon?I always like your reviews !!


----------



## wanako

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Small teaser on Hydro HG10 N780:


Nice! Looking forward to this!









I may be planning on experimenting putting a H90 on the CPU and an H80i on the GPU someway, somehow, in my little Sugo SG10. lol. doubt it will work though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jorpe*
> 
> That's purdy


Thanks!


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakete*
> 
> Yeah, I was actually a bit surprised. At first the Temps were higher than what I would get with an air cooler (granted, it's one of the best air coolers out there at the moment). Eventually discovered that the copper plate wasn't making full contact with the cpu heat spreader and I played around with it, but never managed to make 100% contact. Perhaps the copper plate wasn't perfectly flat? Anyway, didn't wanna bother anymore, and besides, the fans were too loud for my liking. To get it to acceptable noise levels I would've had to invest in other fans that would have been quieter.


That's fair, but yeah the cooler's coldplate will not be perfectly flat because it is by design for all our AIO hydro coolers. This is to increase mounting pressure over the die region of the CPU where the heat is mainly generated. By doing so, the cooler's heat dissipation will be much more effective, especially if the CPU is under heavy load.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Small teaser on Hydro HG10 N780:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Fan looks good man... just need to change that logo to the new one









Looking forward to see it in action!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> Nice !
> Are we gonna see a review pretty soon?I always like your reviews !!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wanako*
> 
> Nice! Looking forward to this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may be planning on experimenting putting a H90 on the CPU and an H80i on the GPU someway, somehow, in my little Sugo SG10. lol. doubt it will work though.
> Thanks!


There will be a review as with the HG10 A1 I did (not here due to forum rules, but on other forums and on my website) with the addition of the fan being tested out also this time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Fan looks good man... just need to change that logo to the new one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to see it in action!


Yeah Prof Cao did say that these were the last few products made before the logo switch came into effect. I forgot about the older logo on the fan lol, I didn't put up pics of the entire packaging for that reason. Oh well, not much I can do since the review will have the pics with the older logo anyway.


----------



## Someone09

Quick question about the H110i GT: Can 3pin fans be used and controlled via Link?
Getting mixed results using google.


----------



## VSG

You can't use the connectors that come with the cooler, they are PWM only and would keep the fans at 12V itself. You can get the Link Commander Mini if you absolutely need to use Link.


----------



## Someone09

Read somewhere that they updated the Link software recently to be able to control 3pin fans too which is why I asked.
Thanks for clearing it up.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Someone09*
> 
> Read somewhere that they updated the Link software recently to be able to control 3pin fans too which is why I asked.
> Thanks for clearing it up.


most modern motherboards can control dc fans via undervolting

Any word when the H5SF from the bullldog would be available for separate purchase?


----------



## ADSL

I'm so ******* desperated, I CAN'T INSTALL THE DAMN DRIVERS!!, When i install it, on dispositives it appears as it is not installed, i tried everything, changed the USB to 3 places, tried older version, newer version, NOTHING!!

Windows 7 SP1
Asrock Z77 Extreme 4
H100i GTX

Everytime i get error when the driver is installing

Corsair Hydro Series 7289 USB Device - Errors

It is error 52, says it cant autentificate the driver, tried everything, even change the autentificacion to off, nothing, NOTHING, dont know what to do, my head is gonna explode, 5 hours have passed already like this


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADSL*
> 
> I'm so ******* desperated, I CAN'T INSTALL THE DAMN DRIVERS!!, When i install it, on dispositives it appears as it is not installed, i tried everything, changed the USB to 3 places, tried older version, newer version, NOTHING!!
> 
> Windows 7 SP1
> Asrock Z77 Extreme 4
> H100i GTX
> 
> Everytime i get error when the driver is installing
> 
> Corsair Hydro Series 7289 USB Device - Errors
> 
> It is error 52, says it cant autentificate the driver, tried everything, even change the autentificacion to off, nothing, NOTHING, dont know what to do, my head is gonna explode, 5 hours have passed already like this


This is what I would try in your place. First install all the corsair software for the link. Even if the hardware drivers don't install properly. Then use Revo Uninstaller to remove it and while you doing that make sure you tell it to run deep scans for any left over bits. After you are done, reboot the computer and try installing the software again. You can get Revo from download.com. Pay attention while installing it to make sure CNET (download.com) doesn't try and install any Crap programs with it.
Of course make sure all your updates are done and if everything else fails you could try a firmware update on your motherboard.
Another thing you can do is uninstall your usb drivers in device manager and reboot, which will reinstall them. Just right click on the usb drivers and select uninstall. If none of that helps try looking around in the Corsair forums on Corsair's site.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> This is what I would try in your place. First install all the corsair software for the link. Even if the hardware drivers don't install properly. Then use Revo Uninstaller to remove it and while you doing that make sure you tell it to run deep scans for any left over bits. After you are done, reboot the computer and try installing the software again. You can get Revo from download.com. Pay attention while installing it to make sure CNET (download.com) doesn't try and install any Crap programs with it.
> Of course make sure all your updates are done and if everything else fails you could try a firmware update on your motherboard.
> Another thing you can do is uninstall your usb drivers in device manager and reboot, which will reinstall them. Just right click on the usb drivers and select uninstall. If none of that helps try looking around in the Corsair forums on Corsair's site.


Or, just get Revo Uninstaller directly from the company, and skip the whole concern about C-net's garbage add-ons. Everything else, I completely agree with.









http://www.revouninstaller.com/revo_uninstaller_free_download.html


----------



## Tabinhu

Hey guys I'm going to build my first computer in July and I wanted to know if its safe for the H100 to run 24/7 , or can I experience any leakage or the pump failing on me?
I'd like the H100 over the NHD15 due to my case. I'll be using a case with a window for the looks


----------



## leo5111

on socket 1155 can the corsair h110 reach the die id i take the lid off my 3770k? and does it work ok?


----------



## schmotty

Pump failure is a possibility, but so is fan failure. As for leakage, it is also possible. You may not be aware, but there is liquid inside the heat pipes of the air cooled heat sinks too. And those fans can fail.

Not probable though.

Either way you choose, Just remember, when you boot up first time, go into BIOS and check the temps are stabilizing and not climbing off the charts. First time I booted my current rig, the H110 pump was plugged into the wrong fan port and didn't run at all. CPU temps were at 80C by the time I got to windows and opened HWMonitor.


----------



## leo5111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schmotty*
> 
> Pump failure is a possibility, but so is fan failure. As for leakage, it is also possible. You may not be aware, but there is liquid inside the heat pipes of the air cooled heat sinks too. And those fans can fail.
> 
> Not probable though.
> 
> Either way you choose, Just remember, when you boot up first time, go into BIOS and check the temps are stabilizing and not climbing off the charts. First time I booted my current rig, the H110 pump was plugged into the wrong fan port and didn't run at all. CPU temps were at 80C by the time I got to windows and opened HWMonitor.


i ALLMOST did that i installed my H110 didnt feel the pump running and quickly shut my PC off and fixed it


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Any word when the H5SF from the bullldog would be available for separate purchase?


I'm expecting it to come out the same time as Bulldog. I'd say towards the end of Q4 of this year.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADSL*
> 
> I'm so ******* desperated, I CAN'T INSTALL THE DAMN DRIVERS!!, When i install it, on dispositives it appears as it is not installed, i tried everything, changed the USB to 3 places, tried older version, newer version, NOTHING!!
> 
> Windows 7 SP1
> Asrock Z77 Extreme 4
> H100i GTX
> 
> Everytime i get error when the driver is installing
> 
> Corsair Hydro Series 7289 USB Device - Errors
> 
> It is error 52, says it cant autentificate the driver, tried everything, even change the autentificacion to off, nothing, NOTHING, dont know what to do, my head is gonna explode, 5 hours have passed already like this


You may want to double check your USB drivers for that board and make sure they are the most recent version. Check your .net Framework version as well, latest one should be 4.5.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tabinhu*
> 
> Hey guys I'm going to build my first computer in July and I wanted to know if its safe for the H100 to run 24/7 , or can I experience any leakage or the pump failing on me?
> I'd like the H100 over the NHD15 due to my case. I'll be using a case with a window for the looks


Yes, its totally fine to run the H100 24/7. We've seen many users of H80/H100 running their system all year long with no issue. Failure on any part of the cooler is always a possibility due to many reasons. This is why you have a warranty from just in case any of those failures decided to present themselves.

Leakage is the last thing you want to worry about. Yes, it does happen, but they are the least cases we have to deal with compared to pump failures or loud fans or audible pumps. And plus, we have system in place that deals specifically with leak claims. So in a situation where the unfortunate happens, rest assured that you have great support team that'll make sure that you are well accommodated.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leo5111*
> 
> on socket 1155 can the corsair h110 reach the die id i take the lid off my 3770k? and does it work ok?


Sounds a little extreme but it is interesting. I don't think we've ever done this ourselves, thus I wouldn't know the answer


----------



## leo5111

from articles i have found seems i would need to remove the cpu retention bracket,but im trying to hear from anyone here that has done it


----------



## Ceadderman

So long as the bolts used to secure the pump to the top of the CPU are completely threaded, instead of partially threaded (h50 for instance), I don't see why it won't work. Fully threaded bolts would allow the pump and bracket to seat lower than the top of the IHS which is the level that all CPU coolers are configured for.

MSi made a die bracket to allow cooler to die contact but finding one is rather difficult.

Anyway I would suggest that you require the thread pitch of the bolts so you can get some that will thread correctly and allow the cooler direct contact. But before attempting this make certain that you've protected the exposed caps with clear fingernail polish and have taken steps to ensure that the cooler won't seat too low and shatter the die.

If you have a dead chip that will fit the socket and can use that to rig up a workable plan, that would be my advice on the matter.









~Ceadder


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tabinhu*
> 
> Hey guys I'm going to build my first computer in July and I wanted to know if its safe for the H100 to run 24/7 , or can I experience any leakage or the pump failing on me?
> I'd like the H100 over the NHD15 due to my case. I'll be using a case with a window for the looks


My H100i has been running almost 24/7 since I got it, and with no issues at all. I say "almost" since my cat used to walk across my case and turn it off in the middle of the night - until I disabled the Power button while in Windows.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leo5111*
> 
> from articles i have found seems i would need to remove the cpu retention bracket,but im trying to hear from anyone here that has done it


Have you checked out the delidding thread on OCN? That would be your best resource for people who are running direct-die.


----------



## Dimensive

I just recently pulled my H50 Quiet Edition from my i5-4670K (using ARCTIC MX-2) and noticed some discoloration on the block. Should I be concerned about this and get the plate replaced? I plan on either selling or giving this cooler away, but I don't want to give it away if it's not 100%.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I just recently pulled my H50 Quiet Edition from my i5-4670K (using ARCTIC MX-2) and noticed some discoloration on the block. Should I be concerned about this and get the plate replaced? I plan on either selling or giving this cooler away, but I don't want to give it away if it's not 100%.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The discoloration doesn't really affect anything. It's certainly not worth replacing.


----------



## tomterrific

So my rig is lying around mostly disassembled while I wait for an RMA on my MB to process. I have a Corsair 250D and an H100i (cooling an i7-4790k). I repurposed my Cougar Vortex 120mm PWM fans for the radiator (currently set up as in an Intake-Pull configuration). I'm entertaining the idea of switching to SP120 High Performances, just because. Partly because the Cougars get a bit whiny at low RPM (something to do with the PWM, I think). Partly because why not. Any opinions? Alternative fan recommendations?


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> The discoloration doesn't really affect anything. It's certainly not worth replacing.


Right on, thank you!


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomterrific*
> 
> So my rig is lying around mostly disassembled while I wait for an RMA on my MB to process. I have a Corsair 250D and an H100i (cooling an i7-4790k). I repurposed my Cougar Vortex 120mm PWM fans for the radiator (currently set up as in an Intake-Pull configuration). I'm entertaining the idea of switching to SP120 High Performances, just because. Partly because the Cougars get a bit whiny at low RPM (something to do with the PWM, I think). Partly because why not. Any opinions? Alternative fan recommendations?


I actually just watched a video this morning on the newer Fractal Design Venturi fans, maybe they're worth checking out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENQvL4Kt05k


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Right on, thank you!


Yep, no worries.


----------



## rotorwash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tabinhu*
> 
> Hey guys I'm going to build my first computer in July and I wanted to know if its safe for the H100 to run 24/7 , or can I experience any leakage or the pump failing on me?
> I'd like the H100 over the NHD15 due to my case. I'll be using a case with a window for the looks


I've been running my H100i 24/7 for the last 10 mos with no problems. There is always a possibility of failure (leaks, etc) but it is highly unlikely. Go for it and enjoy!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I just recently pulled my H50 Quiet Edition from my i5-4670K (using ARCTIC MX-2) and noticed some discoloration on the block. Should I be concerned about this and get the plate replaced? I plan on either selling or giving this cooler away, but I don't want to give it away if it's not 100%.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The discoloration doesn't really affect anything. It's certainly not worth replacing.
Click to expand...

Agreed. That h50 could be cleaned up with a good lapping. I did that to my cooling plate when I owned the h50. Ran it for a year and my temps were ridiculously low for my OCed 955 @ 4Ghz.

Of course lapping that is no small task. I had to strap the Rad to my forearm and unstrap it every 25 passes over 1500,2000 and 3000grit paper and rotating a quarter turn each pass.









~Ceadder


----------



## texas_nightowl

So, my H60 might be dead. I've been posting on the Corsair forums but looking for any more input. For reference, my H60 is almost 4 yrs old, purchased in Sept. 2011.

About a week and a half ago or so, AI Suite popped up with a cpu temp warning. (I have my warning set pretty low, 72c.) So I immediately shut down I knew based on the amount of dust I found at the bottom filter that dust was probably at least part of the issue. So I have now done the following: used the datavac blower to blow out the whole case, replaced all my fans, uninstalled the H60 and blew out the rad, cleaned heatplate and cpu heatspreader and remounted with new thermal paste (Noctua). (My previous tube of paste, AS5, was at least 8 yrs old if not older.)

When I booted the system I initially went to BIOS. I did *not* have the instantaneous heat spike that is indicative of bad contact. Instead my temps started to rise more slowly. 32, 35, 38, 40... I went to the fan control page of my BIOS. Fans were running. H60 pump was running. H60 pump was plugged into PWR_FAN and rpm's reported were 4200 iirc. The fan mounted on the rad was (temporarily) plugged into PWR_FAN2 and so was running at full speed (and I could definitely feel air flow out the back!). The other 3 fans were plugged into CHA_FAN/CHA_FAN2 and initially were running around 950rpm. As temps increased the fans ramped up to 1100 to 1500. At this time, my temp had risen to 53.

I went ahead and let the system boot to windows and by the time I logged in and opened AI Suite, CPU temp was reported at 67.

So again, the temp increase was not instant. It was over the course of 3-5 minutes approx.

I can remount the pump of course, but given that bad contact usually results in very very fast temp rises I'm not sure that is the issue.

Any other input?

Or is the H60 just dead after almost 4 years?


----------



## Ceadderman

It's your choice of TIM imho. AS5 requires a ridiculous amount of burn in time.

Now unless I've missed it, I saw no indication of how much time you ran at full load. Had you used some MX4 or Shin-Estu G series TIM you could mount and operate normally and you would see a reasonable representation of what your actual would be.

I don't believe that your h60 is toast but if you haven't burnt in that TIM, I would do that and then check out the temps. If I remember correctly it take approximately 8 days of Load to burn that specific TIM in.









I have an informative link (80way) in my sig. It's truncated so you'll have to make sure to hover over it before clicking.









~Ceadder


----------



## texas_nightowl

Please re-read. There is no AS 5 on it right now. That is what used to be on it but because the tube itself was at least 8 yrs old I bought a brand new tube of Noctua NT-H1. So no burn in time.

My temps slowly increased from 32-53+ while just in BIOS over the course of 2-3 minutes. Even though temps were increasing i booted into windows anyway by which time temp reported 67.

No stress testing yet. No AIDA or OCCT or Prime95. Nothing more than BIOS and booting into Windows.


----------



## Ceadderman

Aha. My bad. Are you running 1 or 2 fans?

If 2, did you make absolutely certain that they're both running in the same direction an that they're both working?

I ran a pair of Yate Loons on my h50 and you'd be surprised how easy it is to get one flipped incorrectly and how it affects the temps.









~Ceadder


----------



## texas_nightowl

Just one fan. Pulling to exhaust. Then I have 3 case fans, two front, one bottom. No gpu, so not a lot of other hot air. Plus i have the side off so i could see my fans for now.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hmmmm have you heard anything coming from the pump? Any kind of gurgling or sounds of that nature?

Is your radiator mounted tubes down? I'm thinking that you may have an airlock in your system, but without pics or details along these lines it's rather difficult since we've ruled out the burnin time and possible fan alignment issues.

Could also be you may have to re-mount the pump block on your CPU. What were your average temps before this issue happened an what is your ambient temp?

~Ceadder


----------



## texas_nightowl

Ok, i am back. I did reseat the pump block. I will say i had slightly too much paste on...but i definitely had good contact at the center of the CPU and the paste has all pushed away toward the edges. Anyway, i cleaned and reapplied again.

I booted and stayed in BIOS for 10 minutes. Temps slowly raised from 35 to 58 over those 10 minutes. I never left BIOS. Pump was running full, reporting 4200+ rpm.

Ambient is around 24. Aka 75 Fahrenheit.

Radiator is mounted to the rear of the case. The bottom of the rad, aka where the tubes enter is towards the bottom of the case. So, the location of the tubes on the pump block is technically higher than the entry location of the tubes on the rad. The top of the rad is of course higher than the pump block. I will see if i can find some old pics to link.



As for noise. Nothing i would classify as gurgling. I am hearing a sound i would call rattling, maybe? I was trying to listen carefully and make sure it was not one of the new fans, including the one mounted to the rad. But the noise does seem to be the pump. Now...is it noisier than before? Not sure. Between new fans and case open right now. I am not sure.

Update: as a quick test i unplugged the fan mounted to the rad just to noise check. And the noise is still audible so appears to be the pump that i am hearing.


----------



## Ceadderman

Try rapping lightly on the tubes with a pencil and see if the noise goes away. I suspect that during your maintenance it got some air trapped in one or both of the corrugated tubes which makes the pump work harder. It was/is a common issue with early Corair AIO coolers. There are loads of people in this thread reporting similar noise issues.

Not sure if it's part of your temp problem but it's something to rule out.

~Ceadder


----------



## Erick Silver

Yeah I had the same issue with my H60 a whole back. You just need to tap the lines to get the air moved back into the rad. I found myself just doing a few taps at least once a week just to be sure.
I still have mine, but am using a Hyper 212 now. I don't know why I am still holding on to my H60. I suppose I could sell it. Or maybe I can use it in a future mod. Dunno. Try the tap method. It worked for me in general.


----------



## texas_nightowl

No go with the tapping. I suppose as a last ditch effort I could turn the rad upside down so the tubes are at the top? Good or bad idea?

If nothing changes then I need to decide whether to spring for an H90 or go back to air. A decent (not top of line, single fan) air cooler can be had for half the price of an H90. (Phanteks PH-TC14S, Thermalright True Spirit 140, etc.) I haven't ended up OC'ing and I don't have a separate gpu still, so ... is the H90 worth it? On the other hand, I do love the clean, spacious look a water cooler gives as opposed to a bulky tower.


----------



## Erick Silver

Sorry to hear the tapping didn't work. I personally went with a Hyper 212+ in Push/Pull. And to be honest, I have better temps now than with the H60. Right now my X6 1090T is idle at 31*c.


----------



## Ceadderman

The h90 would be enough.

I too ran the 212. But that's because I was transitioning from AIO to a custom loop an needed cash. Someone here sent me the 212 to use in the interim so I could keep Folding while connecting my 1st loop.

Worked great but I really missed my h50, which I lapped added push pull with a shroud to. Temps were mid 40s while Folding on my also lapped 955 BE chip.

However mb needed water cooling as well so it and my chip got better temps with a full 360 over a single 120 on just the chip. With both my Folding temps came in around 42c average. Keep in mind that's combined SB/NB/CPU temps. SB doesn't add much but that NB was getting seriously way too hot in minor gaming sessions. 59c after standoff fix. 52c after mb block was added.









I do recommend going with whatever fits/works for you. h90 would do pretty well all things considered.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *texas_nightowl*
> 
> No go with the tapping. I suppose as a last ditch effort I could turn the rad upside down so the tubes are at the top? Good or bad idea?
> 
> If nothing changes then I need to decide whether to spring for an H90 or go back to air. A decent (not top of line, single fan) air cooler can be had for half the price of an H90. (Phanteks PH-TC14S, Thermalright True Spirit 140, etc.) I haven't ended up OC'ing and I don't have a separate gpu still, so ... is the H90 worth it? On the other hand, I do love the clean, spacious look a water cooler gives as opposed to a bulky tower.


Don't forget many of the Corsair coolers have five year warranties. Find your bill of sale and check the date.


----------



## texas_nightowl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Don't forget many of the Corsair coolers have five year warranties. Find your bill of sale and check the date.


Lol. Easier said. Almost 4 years, a 1400 mile move, and a major downsize. I will look, but i am not all that hopeful i will find it. Unfortunately i bought it at an, at then, local Best Buy, and not Newegg or Amazon.

Edit: initial quick look = no receipt. But, the back of the install guide says 2 year guarantee. So would not be covered anyway I think?


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Just contact Corsair with the serial number and let them know you don't know the exact date of purchase. Worst case they deny warranty.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *texas_nightowl*
> 
> Lol. Easier said. Almost 4 years, a 1400 mile move, and a major downsize. I will look, but i am not all that hopeful i will find it. Unfortunately i bought it at an, at then, local Best Buy, and not Newegg or Amazon.
> 
> Edit: initial quick look = no receipt. But, the back of the install guide says 2 year guarantee. So would not be covered anyway I think?


Yeah, some of their lower end coolers have shorter warranties. I would go with the recommendation in the previous post of calling Corsair with the serial number or start an rma on their website and see if they will cover it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *texas_nightowl*
> 
> Lol. Easier said. Almost 4 years, a 1400 mile move, and a major downsize. I will look, but i am not all that hopeful i will find it. Unfortunately i bought it at an, at then, local Best Buy, and not Newegg or Amazon.
> 
> Edit: initial quick look = no receipt. But, the back of the install guide says 2 year guarantee. So would not be covered anyway I think?
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, some of their lower end coolers have shorter warranties. I would go with the recommendation in the previous post of calling Corsair with the serial number or start an rma on their website and see if they will cover it.
Click to expand...

Ditto.

Also if you paid with a credit card or check, and that was the only purchase at that time you can contact your bank and have them find a copy of the receipt. They should be able to do it one time free of charge or a nominal fee. So if you didn't use cash you are not without hope. Even Best Buy may be able to look up that transaction for you.









~Ceadder


----------



## texas_nightowl

Well, i posted on the corsair forum to ask and the response was that all hydro coolers have a five year warranty with receipt.

So i think i can boot my system long enough to look at my quicken file. That will tell me which credit card at least.

I will try asking best buy but their website says they can not look up over 2 years.

To be honest, in the meantime i ordered a Thermalright true spirit 140 air cooler.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Correct, the H60 v1 has a 5 year warranty. if you've had that cooler for 4 years, then you are still under our warranty. It'd be a lot easier to validate if you still have the cooler's invoice.

Regardless, you should still submit a request and get a ticket # to get you started. Corsair.force.com


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Correct, the H60 v1 has a 5 year warranty. if you've had that cooler for 4 years, then you are still under our warranty. It'd be a lot easier to validate if you still have the cooler's invoice.
> 
> Regardless, you should still submit a request and get a ticket # to get you started. Corsair.force.com


Has that model cooler even been on the market for five years?


----------



## Erick Silver

Uh, yeah. longer in fact


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Yup, one of the first gen coolers we've released. It came out right after our first H50 was released.


----------



## Erick Silver

Thats around 2009 right? Maybe earlier?


----------



## darkelixa

Cooler was picked up by star track yesterday, changing my case over to a silverstone ft02 window version, not sure if the h100igtx is going to fit in that case, if not maybe i can just downgrade to the new h80 version?


----------



## Ceadderman

Should fit.









~Ceadder


----------



## darkelixa

So the radiator would be on the bottom fans, is it going to be fine pumping upwards?


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Yup, one of the first gen coolers we've released. It came out right after our first H50 was released.


The v1 H60 was 2011 I think. The newer one was 2013. Either way you're right, 5 year warranty is not expired.

H50 and then H70 came out, and then eventually were replaced by H60 and H80, and then later on H60 (2013) and H80i.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> The v1 H60 was 2011 I think. The newer one was 2013. Either way you're right, 5 year warranty is not expired.
> 
> H50 and then H70 came out, and then eventually were replaced by H60 and H80, and then later on H60 (2013) and H80i.


ah that's right, I totally forgot about the H70. Memory is a bit rusty man, I blame @CorsairJames


----------



## VSG

You should all blame him for everything


----------



## redshoulder

Purchased a h100igtx but the pump was making a grinding noise ( so loud it aggravated my tinnitus haha) so now in the process of RMA.

I think my current build from 2013 is cursed, so far

Corsair ax860i, fail after 3 months, rma and working so far.
the whole samsung 840 evo fiasco.
The gtx780 then the 780ti was quickly released soon after that left a sour taste in my mouth.
Broken corsair 350d case when shipping from Japan to Ireland, now replaced by phanteks evolv.


----------



## darkelixa

UPS now ring me asking for a customs deceleration, I do not have this form


----------



## Ceadderman

You can get one via you local Post or Customs office. Check your email too to check I'd there is a specific number attached the the unit that was shipped.









~Ceadder


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> UPS now ring me asking for a customs deceleration, I do not have this form


Not sure where you are, but this link should have whatever version of the Declaration you need. Remember, Google is your friend.









https://www.ups.com/intl_forms/formslibrary


----------



## Wirerat

Finished a build for a coworker using a H110GTX on a 4790k in a define S.


----------



## Ceadderman

Very nice.









What do you think of that Fractal case.









~Ceadder


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Very nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think of that Fractal case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


My main is in an R5. There are a few things better and worse about the define S.

No built in fan controller, front door or way to mount a dual 120mm rad to the floor of the case is noticed but for the cheaper price its fine.

Improvments over the R5 are the reservior mounting and front filter covering 360mm instead of 280mm. It also has more room behind the mobo tray for wire routing which is always welcome.

Its definitely an incredible case for $79.


----------



## Illusive Spectre

Hey guys!

I bought a H105 a few weeks ago. The pump is connected to CPU Header and the 2 rad fans are connected (via the Y cable) to the CHA_1 fan header. I set the pump speed to MAX (locked) and the speed of the fans to around 2000RPM.

Now I'm thinking about connecting the rad fans to the CPU_OPT header in order to free up the CHA_1 fan header.

The manual (Asus Maximus VII Ranger) doesn't mention anything about both CPU headers being the mirror to each other (One fan profile for both headers). I want the pump to run at the full speed (Constant 12V) and to be unaffected whenever I change the speeds of the rad fans if connected to the CPU_OPT header. Is that possible? Has anyone done this before? I'm a bit scared to try this


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Illusive Spectre*
> 
> Hey guys!
> 
> I bought a H105 a few weeks ago. The pump is connected to CPU Header and the 2 rad fans are connected (via the Y cable) to the CHA_1 fan header. I set the pump speed to MAX (locked) and the speed of the fans to around 2000RPM.
> 
> Now I'm thinking about connecting the rad fans to the CPU_OPT header in order to free up the CHA_1 fan header.
> 
> The manual (Asus Maximus VII Ranger) doesn't mention anything about both CPU headers being the mirror to each other (One fan profile for both headers). I want the pump to run at the full speed (Constant 12V) and to be unaffected whenever I change the speeds of the rad fans if connected to the CPU_OPT header. Is that possible? Has anyone done this before? I'm a bit scared to try this


why not just get a 4 pin molex adapter and connect the pump directly to psu. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ONN4VU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_MWOLvbGX7GVJC

The adapters normally come included with premium fans.


----------



## Ceadderman

Thank you Wirerat. I was considering recommending it to a customer who wants a modded case for a build he wants.

So the door doesn't open?









~Ceadder


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Thank you Wirerat. I was considering recommending it to a customer who wants a modded case for a build he wants.
> 
> *So the door doesn't open?*


The front simply pulls off exposing the magnetic 360 filter. There are no 5.25 bays. So no real reason for a door.

The S would have been a better case for my personal build but it was not available in Jan when I upgraded to a full loop.


----------



## Ceadderman

Oooooh I can mod the hades out of that case.









He wants a Green Kryptonite look for his build. So I am thinking of replacing the window with a reworked one and now that I see you can simply pull the face off I can rework that to fit the theme.









He's on a budget so I'm gonna be building his system from the case up.









~Ceadder


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Oooooh I can mod the hades out of that case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He wants a Green Kryptonite look for his build. So I am thinking of replacing the window with a reworked one and now that I see you can simply pull the face off I can rework that to fit the theme.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He's on a budget so I'm gonna be building his system from the case up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Its a very mod able design for sure. I done a build for another coworker in a nzxt s340 which is the same cost ~$80. I like the availability of colors in the s340 but the fractal offers what seems like a step up in quality with the heavy side panels, sound dampening ect.

Im happy to see more water cooling/aio friendly designs. I used to have to chop up the cheaper cases to fit what I needed.


----------



## Ceadderman

Shoot, my 932 (which is billed as Watercooling friendly) had to lose the 5.25 bay and HDD rack to get everything inside it properly. Not that you can't watercool with it. But it would be better suited if it were set up like that Fractal case.









~Ceadder


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Finished a build for a coworker using a H110GTX on a 4790k in a define S.


Thanks for posting that, Wirerat!
I've been wondering if the tubing on the H110GTX was long enough to mount it in the front of a Fractal Define S. It looks like the tubes are not stretched out or under any kind of tension from trying to cover too long of a distance... or at least that's what I hope is the case.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> Thanks for posting that, Wirerat!
> I've been wondering if the tubing on the H110GTX was long enough to mount it in the front of a Fractal Define S. It looks like the tubes are not stretched out or under any kind of tension from trying to cover too long of a distance... or at least that's what I hope is the case.


There is actually good bit of slack left in the tubes. I expected them to be stretched across the ram but as you can see there was even room to route them up and across at the top.

The h110GTX can comfortably mount in top or front of that case.


----------



## nycameraman

Recently installed H100i GTX in Push / Pull inside Corsair 760T with Asus x99-a motherboard.


----------



## ADSL

Its your driver's fault, if i disable windows driver signature enforcement, the driver works perfectly and i can control everything, but if i turn it off, i CAN'T PLAY RUST because it needs the driver signature enforcement for the anti cheat, i got the damn error 52 on windows saying this

_Windows no puede comprobar la firma digital de los controladores necesarios para este dispositivo. Puede que un cambio de hardware o software reciente haya instalado un archivo que no está firmado correctamente, está dañado o es software malintencionado de un origen desconocido. (Código 52)_

*
Windows can't check the digital signature of the drivers needed for this dispositive, maybe a change of hardware or software recent has installed a file that is not signed correctly, damaged or it's malware from uknown origin (Code 52)*

So WHAT DO I DO? I'VE TRIED EVERYTHING, IT IS NOT MY DAMN FAULT! It's the Corsair Hydro Series 7289 USB Device fault


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADSL*
> 
> Its your driver's fault, if i disable windows driver signature enforcement, the driver works perfectly and i can control everything, but if i turn it off, i CAN'T PLAY RUST because it needs the driver signature enforcement for the anti cheat, i got the damn error 52 on windows saying this
> 
> _Windows no puede comprobar la firma digital de los controladores necesarios para este dispositivo. Puede que un cambio de hardware o software reciente haya instalado un archivo que no está firmado correctamente, está dañado o es software malintencionado de un origen desconocido. (Código 52)_
> 
> *
> Windows can't check the digital signature of the drivers needed for this dispositive, maybe a change of hardware or software recent has installed a file that is not signed correctly, damaged or it's malware from uknown origin (Code 52)*
> 
> So WHAT DO I DO? I'VE TRIED EVERYTHING, IT IS NOT MY DAMN FAULT! It's the Corsair Hydro Series 7289 USB Device fault


We are currently looking into this. Which cooler is this again? Thanks


----------



## GuestVeea

H100i Cooling the i7-4790k @4.7GHz, and an H110/NZXT Kraken Combo cooling the R9 290



Complete Specs:
Intel I7-4790k @4.7GHz
Corsair H100i
Gigabyte R9 290 @1102MHz/1300Mhz
Red NZXT Kraken G10
Corsair H110
EVGA Z97 FTW
8gb 1600mhz DDR3
64gb Crucial M4 SSD
500gb HDD
Thermaltake Smart M850W PSU
Corsair Obsidian 750d

Logitech G510
Razer Deathadder Black Edition
Asus 24" 1920x1080 Monitor [Primary]
Acer P246HL 24" 1920x1080


----------



## catbuster

So i got h100i gtx and on windows 7 corsair link was working perfectly, but now after installing windows 8.1 i cant control the pump or fans... the fix in registry doesnt work for this *new* unit like with previous h100i... anything i could do to control the pump? I want to run it on slower speed to lower the noise









kinda disappointing that *newly released* unit still has problems with windows 8.1


----------



## ADSL

You already answered me the other day, H100i GTX, Fix it asap, i can't stay like this forever
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> So i got h100i gtx and on windows 7 corsair link was working perfectly, but now after installing windows 8.1 i cant control the pump or fans... the fix in registry doesnt work for this *new* unit like with previous h100i... anything i could do to control the pump? I want to run it on slower speed to lower the noise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> kinda disappointing that *newly released* unit still has problems with windows 8.1


I am afraid of their support service, i'm scared of update to Windows 10 now, because hell, if they have problems with Windows 7/8.1, they will have too for sure for Windows 10


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> So i got h100i gtx and on windows 7 corsair link was working perfectly, but now after installing windows 8.1 i cant control the pump or fans... the fix in registry doesnt work for this *new* unit like with previous h100i... anything i could do to control the pump? I want to run it on slower speed to lower the noise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> kinda disappointing that *newly released* unit still has problems with windows 8.1


I've seen a few 8.1 users complained about C Link, but keep in mind that there are hundreds out there that are not having a single issue with C Link when using Win 8.1, including myself.

Have you tried using a different USB header on your board and see if it makes a difference? Sounds like C link sees the hardware, just have no control over it right?

8.1 issues with link have already been addressed a few revisions back, this should be gone by now unless it is system related. Are you using C Link version 3.1.5570 ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADSL*
> 
> You already answered me the other day, H100i GTX, Fix it asap, i can't stay like this forever


I thought that was two weeks ago.

And do you know if your cooler is using firmware 1.07? Actually, do you mind providing your full system spec?


----------



## ADSL

I don't know what firmware is using, i have the last Corsair Link downloaded and there's no option to upgrade any firmware or download any firmware, the problem is with the Driver itself, not the pump or corsair link, because with Signature Enforcement off i can use it perfectly

i5 3570k
Asrock Z77 Extreme 4 (tried all USB, but again, it's not my pc problem)
980 GTX G1
8GB RAM
1TB SSD 850 EVO
Windows 7 SP1 64bit

Please, i need a fix, i wan't to play Rust without getting my CPU burned


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Thanks for the spec.

Turn off Signature Enforcement first then run Link, then you can check the cooler's FW version under devices.


----------



## ADSL

can you tell me the exact places where i have to go to see that?

Anyway, i've readed that the firmware is included on the Corsair Link version, but my problem is the USB 72xx driver, not any firmware, the driver appears with that error, when i turn Signature enforcement to off (test mode), it works perfectly (because it ignores the signature)

I'll be in home in 15/30min so i'll be able to tell you the firmware version


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> I've seen a few 8.1 users complained about C Link, but keep in mind that there are hundreds out there that are not having a single issue with C Link when using Win 8.1, including myself.
> 
> Have you tried using a different USB header on your board and see if it makes a difference? Sounds like C link sees the hardware, just have no control over it right?
> 
> 8.1 issues with link have already been addressed a few revisions back, this should be gone by now unless it is system related. Are you using C Link version 3.1.5570 ?
> I thought that was two weeks ago.


My board doesnt have another usb 2.0 header...

I am using 3.1.5570...

Will wait for windows 10 and hope for a miracle


----------



## rotorwash

Nice! What CPU?


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADSL*
> 
> can you tell me the exact places where i have to go to see that?
> 
> Anyway, i've readed that the firmware is included on the Corsair Link version, but my problem is the USB 72xx driver, not any firmware, the driver appears with that error, when i turn Signature enforcement to off (test mode), it works perfectly (because it ignores the signature)
> 
> I'll be in home in 15/30min so i'll be able to tell you the firmware version


Alright, try this:

- Uninstall Corsair Link
- Uninstall the device from device manager
- Check the box that says "delete the driver for this device"
- Reboot, Install Corsair Link (Don't launch)
- Reboot again

Let me know if that works. Thanks


----------



## ADSL

Seriously? i mean, SERIOUSLY? You think i didn't tried EVERYTHING already? LOL!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Well, I apologize for suggesting that, I did not know you already did that.

You have to understand that I simply can't operate under any type of assumptions. I have to know exactly what's been tried because we are trying to reproduce the issue here and so far, we haven't been able to.

btw, did you get a chance to check your cooler's FW?


----------



## ADSL

Since i'm using the last version of Corsair Link, it is 1.07 by force, since there's no way for me to update any firmware, it says "There's no updates"

I repeat, it's not a corsair problem, but a USB Driver problem


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADSL*
> 
> Since i'm using the last version of Corsair Link, it is 1.07 by force, since there's no way for me to update any firmware, it says "There's no updates"
> 
> I repeat, it's not a corsair problem, but a USB Driver problem


If you don't mind my asking, when's the last time you did a fresh Windows install?
One thing I can give Corsair credit for is trying to troubleshoot problems like this when we know that Windows can get into a state where things just don't work correctly.
Might I suggest that, if you are using Windows 8, you do a system refresh?
If you are using Windows 7, try doing a repair install.
In either case there should be no damage to your files. If you don't know how, Google Windows 8 system refresh or Windows 7 repair install.
If you wish, before doing the above suggestion, you could open an elevated command line and perform a system file scan to test for corrupted system files. Open the command prompt as an administrator by right clicking on it and type sfc/scannow. This will attempt to repair corrupted files. If this doesn't work try the refresh or repair install.


----------



## ADSL

Windows 7 has been installed in my system for... 3/4 months, already tried that, there's nothing to repair


----------



## darkelixa

Finally UPS delivered the cooler


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADSL*
> 
> Windows 7 has been installed in my system for... 3/4 months, already tried that, there's nothing to repair


I just double checked on a test system in the lab using the 3.1.5570 I downloaded from our web server and the drivers installed and are in fact signed. I've attached the screenshots

SignedDrivers14.jpg 38k .jpg file


SignedDrivers23.jpg 38k .jpg file


I've tried enable/disable Window's digital signature enforcement, un-installing then reinstalling Corsair Link and Corsair Hydro Series 7289 USB Device Driver but I couldn't get the error to show up. All your board's drivers are up to date right?


----------



## ADSL

Yeah, i know the drivers are signed, i've used Signtool to check them, but it is like for me they just don't install or does not work, no matter what, and yes, my PC is updated to the date, latest drivers for everything


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Post screen shots of the actual error, Also, if there is a system error, there should be a log file in the event viewer. You can send me the error file via PM.


----------



## ADSL

It's a pain in the ass going back to normal mode again and again, i've copypasted the error to you in the last page, Windows error 52, it was in spanish but i've translated it to english, take a look, the event visor shows the same, "Errors", and the reason of the error is that, error 52


----------



## LocutusH

Yesterday, my 3rd!! H75 has died...

It has begun all suddenly making a very bad rattling noise...

So, i think i gave nough chances to hydro series. Going back to air...


----------



## DR4G00N

Does the H75 mounting hardware work with the H110?
I'm 99% sure that it will but I just want to make sure.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Does the H75 mounting hardware work with the H110?
> I'm 99% sure that it will but I just want to make sure.


if it has the Round cpu block it is the same.

All the round cpu block aio are the same, including different manufacturers


----------



## darkelixa

My RMA has returned new cooler thank you, however i dont think it will fit in my silverstone ft02 as i have cables everywhere


----------



## Ceadderman

Cable management should fix that.









~Ceadder


----------



## darkelixa

Tried that when I first put the case together, but with the very narrow space at the back of the case i couldnt get cables flat enough for the side to go on so i left it messy


----------



## Ceadderman

Have you tried twist ties to secure cables into place and taking out the slack using them.

I do it all the time. Even the most difficult to manage cables are rendered kittens by time I am finished with them. I only use zip ties to lock them into place.









~Ceadder


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

I save the twist ties from things I buy for pretty much that reason.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> I save the twist ties from things I buy for pretty much that reason.


^^ Same here, I usually have a few sitting on my table - unless a cat discovers them.


----------



## Kazed

A question , im pretty sure it fits but just to be on the safe side, the corsair h110i gt would fit in the top of a Cooler Master Cosmos II right ?

its time to switch out my old h80i


----------



## jorpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Or, just get Revo Uninstaller directly from the company, and skip the whole concern about C-net's garbage add-ons. Everything else, I completely agree with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.revouninstaller.com/revo_uninstaller_free_download.html


+1 for Revo for anything you need to uninstall. Between Revo and Glary Utilities software update checker you can get a lot
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kazed*
> 
> A question , im pretty sure it fits but just to be on the safe side, the corsair h110i gt would fit in the top of a Cooler Master Cosmos II right ?
> 
> its time to switch out my old h80i


The H110 fits well, and it has mounting holes for 240 and 280mm radiators. 360mm radiators also supposedly fit but I've not tried one.


----------



## Kazed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jorpe*
> 
> +1 for Revo for anything you need to uninstall. Between Revo and Glary Utilities software update checker you can get a lot
> The H110 fits well, and it has mounting holes for 240 and 280mm radiators. 360mm radiators also supposedly fit but I've not tried one.


Thanks then ill take my PC apart tomorrow and look into it.


----------



## Bonjovi

Hello Some one know Different between H110I GT and H110I GTX ?

I Want to buy some of them. can you help me to choes?

I like H110I GT because its pretty + its have delicate form i like its radiator form. and pump form

http://www.corsair.com/en/hydro-series-h110i-gt-280mm-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler



VS

http://www.corsair.com/en/hydro-series-h110i-gtx-280mm-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler

I dont like its visual but is it better ?


So can some one tell me What is a different in H110I GT and H110I GTX ?


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> Hello Some one know Different between H110I GT and H110I GTX ?
> 
> I Want to buy some of them. can you help me to choes?
> 
> I like H110I GT because its pretty + its have delicate form i like its radiator form. and pump form
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/en/hydro-series-h110i-gt-280mm-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler
> 
> 
> 
> VS
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/en/hydro-series-h110i-gtx-280mm-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler
> 
> I dont like its visual but is it better ?
> 
> 
> So can some one tell me What is a different in H110I GT and H110I GTX ?


I'm a bit confused now. I didn't even know the H110i GTX was a thing. The specs look almost identical... I'm not even sure why they made the GTX.


----------



## screamace

I heard they are made by different manufacturers. The H110i GTX is obviously newer (mine actually wasn't recognized by Corsair Link until an update a couple days ago). But I don't think there're any differences in performance.


----------



## Bonjovi

I like H110I GT Visual effect. its rarely pretty.

But i dont understand why Corsari dont sending H110I GT to amazon for sell it? :/ they give amazon H110I GTX. AND H80I GT alsow H100I GTX . but not H110I GT :/

I think ill take H110I GT I like it its pretty


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> I like H110I GT Visual effect. its rarely pretty.
> 
> But i dont understand why Corsari dont sending H110I GT to amazon for sell it? :/ they give amazon H110I GTX. AND H80I GT alsow H100I GTX . but not H110I GT :/
> 
> I think ill take H110I GT I like it its pretty


Ahem.. http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B011YL68BS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1437787099&sr=8-4&keywords=h110i+gt


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> So can some one tell me What is a different in H110I GT and H110I GTX ?


I am interested in this, as well, and I would like @Corsair Joseph to provide a *detailed* answer to this question, please.

- What is the difference between H110i GT and H110i GTX?

Thank you.


----------



## Bonjovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Ahem.. http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B011YL68BS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1437787099&sr=8-4&keywords=h110i+gt


Ty but its to much expensive. on newegg its cost 129$








for me 10$ can change everything because im from EU georgia and here is maximum free Custom 300 Geo lari. its mean 1$=2.27Geolari. so i can pay maximum 300/2.27=132$ . if i pay 133$ ill take adds. +15$ for transporter +18% for custom its mean 175$. which in my country means 396 geolari. im losting for nothing money

Because im w8ing for Amazon Prime and a little discount

==========================================================

But in case we all have same question
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> I am interested in this, as well, and I would @Corsair Joseph to provide a *detailed* answer to this question, please.
> 
> - What is the difference between H110i GT and H110i GTX?
> 
> Thank you.


----------



## savagepagan

Is there any chance there will be a H90i?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> I am interested in this, as well, and I would like @Corsair Joseph to provide a *detailed* answer to this question, please.
> 
> - What is the difference between H110i GT and H110i GTX?
> 
> Thank you.


CorJo's comments will be interesting ... but I just went and read the Corsair info pages *HERE* and *HERE* ...

GT is $10 less ... funny yesterday it was $20 more









GTX has slightly smaller rad dimensions and Very slightly quieter fan profiles.

GTX has an improved cold plate and pump! Last time I saw this with Corsair the H100 --> H100i ... we saw an improvement in temps of 3c-4c with medium-high OC's under full load









GTX has fixed tubes (no swivel) coming out of the block, depending on rad mount not so good?









That's my quick comparison


----------



## eBombzor

So is the latest version of Link super buggy for anyone else? (3.1.5667)

It won't start on Windows startup and it stops detecting temperatures and fan speeds after a certain time.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> So is the latest version of Link super buggy for anyone else? (
> 3.1.5667)
> It won't start on Windows startup and it stops detecting temperatures and fan speeds after a certain time.


What version of Windows are you running?


----------



## Ceadderman

I think it's time to step out. Corsair AIOs are great for getting your feet wet with watercooling but they've gotten a whole lot more going for them than they ever had with the h50 that I started out with. Only so many people I can help with their AIO units and lack of Link experience says I've got to back out of the thread.

It was a pleasure to interact with you fellows.









~Ceadder


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> What version of Windows are you running?


8.1 and yes, I did the registry tweaks necessary for running Link on 8.1

I think I'll just use the default fan profiles on the H80i for now and uninstall Link.


----------



## dilster97

After trying to get my H80i to stay Orange I've given up.

It's staying Rose until it gets replaced. XD


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> 8.1 and yes, I did the registry tweaks necessary for running Link on 8.1
> 
> I think I'll just use the default fan profiles on the H80i for now and uninstall Link.


What I was going to say is that the latest versions don't work very well on Win 8.1, an older version runs perfectly. IIRC, I didn't have to mess with the registry for the older version. You want version 2.5.5145 - the pump, light, and fans all work perfectly.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I think it's time to step out. Corsair AIOs are great for getting your feet wet with watercooling but they've gotten a whole lot more going for them than they ever had with the h50 that I started out with. Only so many people I can help with their AIO units and lack of Link experience says I've got to back out of the thread.
> 
> It was a pleasure to interact with you fellows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Cheers to you mate ... +R for all the help you have given others over the years


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I think it's time to step out. Corsair AIOs are great for getting your feet wet with watercooling but they've gotten a whole lot more going for them than they ever had with the h50 that I started out with. Only so many people I can help with their AIO units and lack of Link experience says I've got to back out of the thread.
> 
> It was a pleasure to interact with you fellows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You will be missed in here for sure.







+rep for all the help in here.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> I am interested in this, as well, and I would like @Corsair Joseph to provide a *detailed* answer to this question, please.
> 
> - What is the difference between H110i GT and H110i GTX?
> 
> Thank you.


Essentially, no difference between the two variants in terms of performance. There's probably in some situation, but extremely minimal. One is from CoolIT and one is from Asetek. Aesthetics, particularly the pump design and the tube placement. GTX has user-replaceable pump and radiator inserts They use slightly different fans, they have slightly different pump noise levels, and different mounting brackets. Other than hose, I can't think of anything that makes the other one more attractive than the other.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> Is there any chance there will be a H90i?


I don't know if there will be. No word at the moment.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I think it's time to step out. Corsair AIOs are great for getting your feet wet with watercooling but they've gotten a whole lot more going for them than they ever had with the h50 that I started out with. Only so many people I can help with their AIO units and lack of Link experience says I've got to back out of the thread.
> 
> It was a pleasure to interact with you fellows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks for all the help you've done in this thread man. I really appreciate all the input you have provided here


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Essentially, no difference between the two variants in terms of performance. There's probably in some situation, but extremely minimal. One is from CoolIT and one is from Asetek. Aesthetics, particularly the pump design and the tube placement. *GTX has user-replaceable pump* and radiator inserts They use slightly different fans, they have slightly different pump noise levels, and different mounting brackets. Other than hose, I can't think of anything that makes the other one more attractive than the other.
> .


Okay, thank you for your feedback. To be honest, I would like to hear which one would you prefer but I realize you probably cannot take sides. I would ask more but I'll research it further on my own, first. Last question: can you give a few examples of the pumps the GTX can take, preferably provide a couple of links?

Thank you.


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> *GTX has user-replaceable pump and radiator inserts*.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Last question: can you give a few examples of the pumps the GTX can take, preferably provide a couple of links?
> Thank you.


The cooler has replaceable inserts. Not a replaceable pump. They are those coloured plastic things like the fan rings they do.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> The cooler has replaceable inserts. Not a replaceable pump. They are those coloured plastic things like the fan rings they do.












okay, the way he wrote it..

thanks.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> okay, the way he wrote it..
> 
> thanks.


Sorry about that.. what I really meant was pump inserts, not the pump itself









Thanks for clearing that up, dilster97


----------



## Gerbacio

Guys ill be getting a h100i Gtx today later and I want to get a silent good fan

I'm between

Cougar Vortex PWM 120 Cooling CF-V12HPB

Noctua NF-F12 PWM

I'm open to suggestions ...I just want the best silent cooling possible!

I'm exited to try this unit as I had previously a h100i and a h55 and they where both excellent....I don't have a PC now and all I need is a motherboard and Processor (waiting for skylake)

thanks in advance for the help!


----------



## swiftypoison

Question: thinking about picking up a GTX H100i and replacing the stock fans with 2x Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM. Yay or Nay? I can also do 1450RPM fans. Thoughts?


----------



## VSG

Yay









Just note that unless you are getting PWM GTs, you can't do a direct swap if you want to control the fan speed based on CPU (or otherwise) temp.


----------



## eXteR

Hi guys,

i'm new H110i GT owner since 15 July.

Really happy with the cooler, extremely good temps with my brand new 4790K delidded.

Only 1 fan bothers me, because an ocasional rattling sound when on low rpm, but i contacted with Corsair support and they will change the fan if stock available.

They offered exchange the complete cooler, but i don't want to do it, because my pump is barely audible and really good performance, i don't want to assume the risk of recieveing a worst unit only because 1 fan.

Also because i'm waiting to buy 2 Noiseblocker eLoop B-14, that will be available this august.

I need help with corsair link, worked fine on Windows 8.1, but i'm unable to install it on Windows 10 fresh install.

It worked when updating from 8.1 pro to W10 PRO, but after formating, i get an error on the USB dongle (activation error or something like that), it shows exclamation on device manager.

I tried forcing drivers but i can't make it work. I downloaded last version on corsair website, 28 July version (3.2.5676).

EdIT:

Video of the fan noise


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXteR*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> i'm new H110i GT owner since 15 July.
> 
> Really happy with the cooler, extremely good temps with my brand new 4790K delidded.
> 
> Only 1 fan bothers me, because an ocasional rattling sound when on low rpm, but i contacted with Corsair support and they will change the fan if stock available.
> 
> They offered exchange the complete cooler, but i don't want to do it, because my pump is barely audible and really good performance, i don't want to assume the risk of recieveing a worst unit only because 1 fan.
> 
> Also because i'm waiting to buy 2 Noiseblocker eLoop B-14, that will be available this august.
> 
> I need help with corsair link, worked fine on Windows 8.1, but i'm unable to install it on Windows 10 fresh install.
> 
> It worked when updating from 8.1 pro to W10 PRO, but after formating, i get an error on the USB dongle (activation error or something like that), it shows exclamation on device manager.
> 
> I tried forcing drivers but i can't make it work. I downloaded last version on corsair website, 28 July version (3.2.5676).
> 
> EdIT:
> 
> Video of the fan noise


There is no WIndows 10 version of Corsair link yet. It will open up once after you install it, showing everything BUT your cooler, and then after that Windows 10 just blocks it, cause it causes MAJOR issues.


----------



## eXteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> There is no WIndows 10 version of Corsair link yet. It will open up once after you install it, showing everything BUT your cooler, and then after that Windows 10 just blocks it, cause it causes MAJOR issues.


7/28/2015 - Corsair Link Software Update Version 3.2.5676

Change Log:

Windows 10 support
H80i/H100i firmware updated to v1.1.3
H80i/H100i detection problem

As i said, i used it and worked fine on my Windows 10 PRO x64, updated from 8.1 PRO.

When i fresh installed Windows 10 PRO x64, it won't work at all.

I think the problem is the USB dongle driver signature.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXteR*
> 
> 7/28/2015 - Corsair Link Software Update Version 3.2.5676
> 
> Change Log:
> 
> Windows 10 support
> H80i/H100i firmware updated to v1.1.3
> H80i/H100i detection problem
> 
> As i said, i used it and worked fine on my Windows 10 PRO x64, updated from 8.1 PRO.
> 
> When i fresh installed Windows 10 PRO x64, it won't work at all.
> 
> I think the problem is the USB dongle driver signature.


OH! I didn't realize they had released it, my bad. I'll install it on my rig and let you know what happens.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> OH! I didn't realize they had released it, my bad. I'll install it on my rig and let you know what happens.


I'm running the new version of the Link software with Win10, and it runs perfectly. I haven't had any issues with the program so far.


----------



## DiaSin

Yep, seems fine on my end as well. I got an unhandled exception from .net framework on launch, but I clicked ignore and everything in Link seems to work ok, I'll take a more in-depth look at it when I get back from work this afternoon.


----------



## eXteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Yep, seems fine on my end as well. I got an unhandled exception from .net framework on launch, but I clicked ignore and everything in Link seems to work ok, I'll take a more in-depth look at it when I get back from work this afternoon.


I got this error on the USB dongle.



Can you tell me what driver do you have installed?

On the APP side, i don't get any error, it launch ok and i can see all temps (CPU, Mobo, HD. etc...) But not H110i GT Pump or fans.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXteR*
> 
> I got this error on the USB dongle.
> 
> 
> 
> Can you tell me what driver do you have installed?
> 
> On the APP side, i don't get any error, it launch ok and i can see all temps (CPU, Mobo, HD. etc...) But not H110i GT Pump or fans.


Corsair link's installer installs the driver for you, there is no separate driver that I am aware of.


----------



## eXteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Corsair link's installer installs the driver for you, there is no separate driver that I am aware of.


Then this driver isn't working for me. I don't understand what's happening.

Probably some Corsair Rep could help me with this problem.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXteR*
> 
> Then this driver isn't working for me. I don't understand what's happening.
> 
> Probably some Corsair Rep could help me with this problem.


Did you make sure to completely uninstall the previous version before you installed the new version?


----------



## 4LC4PON3

is the Corsair h50 worth $60.00? It seems to have really high reviews and Im not going to be overclocking. This is just basically to drop stock cooler temps and to make my case look better since the stock cooler is BLEH.

Im assuming it works perfectly for socket 1150? Alot of users state on the newegg reviews that it does NOT fit 1150 but alot of reviews state that it does using the 1156 bracket. some users state that the bracket is flimbsy while others dont. Thoughts

Quoted from newegg review:


> 1156 bracket slots fit the 1150 placement with a little bowing.
> 
> easy to install, had a little problem with the backplate, couldn't get the holes to line up without a little flex of the part.


reviews are fantastic but the backplate has me concerned. THey do say its cheap plastic


----------



## eXteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Did you make sure to completely uninstall the previous version before you installed the new version?


It's a fresh Windows installation. No previous version nor drivers.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXteR*
> 
> It's a fresh Windows installation. No previous version nor drivers.


Did you install the drivers for your motherboard?


----------



## eXteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eXteR*
> 
> It's a fresh Windows installation. No previous version nor drivers.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you install the drivers for your motherboard?
Click to expand...

Yes, i installed with the intel utility i downloaded from Asus web.

No more drivers needed. I dont use integrated audio.

Enviado desde mi Nexus 4 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## darkelixa

Still havent installed my Rma cooler yet as the pc is working perfect and I dont want to move wires and then make it break


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXteR*
> 
> Yes, i installed with the intel utility i downloaded from Asus web.
> 
> No more drivers needed. I dont use integrated audio.
> 
> Enviado desde mi Nexus 4 mediante Tapatalk


Ok, so did you make sure to get the Link software? That installs everything you need for the coolers. The "Link USB Dongle" is a completely separate and different device (google it), it looks like the wrong thing is installed there.

Did you download this version of the Link software?


----------



## eXteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Ok, so did you make sure to get the Link software? That installs everything you need for the coolers. The "Link USB Dongle" is a completely separate and different device (google it), it looks like the wrong thing is installed there.
> 
> Did you download this version of the Link software?


Yes i installed this version.

Finally, today uninstalled all corsair components again, reboot and installed, and it's finally working at least!


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXteR*
> 
> Yes i installed this version.
> 
> Finally, today uninstalled all corsair components again, reboot and installed, and it's finally working at least!


Glad to hear its working.


----------



## inorganicdope

My h60 is running great.


----------



## CannedBullets

Would an H110i GTX be enough to run an i7-6700k at 4.5 ghz without delidding?


----------



## redshoulder

After first item was doa and returned for rma, second gtx100igtx seems to be working.

What is strange is that with regarding to the pump, high performance has a better sound tone compared with quiet mode which is strange.

With quiet mode sound pitch is lower but overall noise is louder, but with high performance sound pitch is of higher frequency but overall lower noise (similar to a D5 vario pump at setting 2 or 3)


----------



## Sptz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Would an H110i GTX be enough to run an i7-6700k at 4.5 ghz without delidding?


I'm 100% sure it would. My i5 4690k at 4.4GHZ runs at 55C maximum on stress tests.


----------



## PerfectTekniq

When setting the logo to white, it always looks a little blue. Anyone else see that? I don't have any blue in the case that it could reflect off of so I'm not sure what else it could be.

I sanded the green lettering off of my Titan Black and now that is white. When I installed the H100i awhile back it has a slight blue to it.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

My H80i is blue. I wonder how hard it would be to remove the LEDs?


----------



## PerfectTekniq

I have the option of changing the color of the LED's but no matter what combination I try the white always looks a bit blue.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> My H80i is blue. I wonder how hard it would be to remove the LEDs?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PerfectTekniq*
> 
> I have the option of changing the color of the LED's but no matter what combination I try the white always looks a bit blue.


On the LED RGB slider in C Link Software, try putting 244 value for Blue instead of 255 then keep Red and Green at 255. Let me know if that works.


----------



## Bonjovi

This is My H100I GTX


----------



## rck1984

Joining the club with my H110i:


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Joining the club with my H110i:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Squeaky clean







looks good


----------



## enkrypt3d

What fans should I use to get more air thru my h100i and aren't too loud? Noctua? And how do u ensure proper negative pressure inside the case?


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkrypt3d*
> 
> What fans should I use to get more air thru my h100i and aren't too loud? Noctua? And how do u ensure proper negative pressure inside the case?


Gentle Typhoon AP-15's! If you can find a couple (for a reasonable price)...


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkrypt3d*
> 
> What fans should I use to get more air thru my h100i and aren't too loud? Noctua? And how do u ensure proper negative pressure inside the case?


You want positive pressure in your case. Otherwise you will be pulling dust in through every crack and seam.


----------



## CrazyElf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkrypt3d*
> 
> What fans should I use to get more air thru my h100i and aren't too loud? Noctua? And how do u ensure proper negative pressure inside the case?


Noctuas are overpriced and overrated for what they are.

Gentle Typhoon would be the top fan from a performance to noise standpoint.

Otherwise, you can get some Delta AFB1212LE or San Ace 9R H1011 series fans. Those are pretty good too.

As far as negative pressure, I'd recommend setting them to exhaust. IT works better when the fans are exhaust because you are not blowing hot air onto the GPU and motherboard. The hot air gets exhausted. True, with intake, you are intaking cooler air, but the GPU, Mosfets, and other parts will run hotter.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Gentle Typhoon AP-15's! If you can find a couple (for a reasonable price)...


In the US, Cooler Guys carries them:
http://www.coolerguys.com/sgt120.html#__utma=22906303.182091183.1411622486.1411772465.1411791172.6&__utmb=22906303.14.10.1411791172&__utmc=22906303&__utmx=-&__utmz=22906303.1411622486.1.1.utmcsr=google|utmccn=%28organic%29|utmcmd=organic|utmctr=%28not%20provided%29&__utmv=-&__utmk=223254040

Shipping to Canada would be expensive though for Canadians.

Here in Canada, Dazmode has them.
https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/scythe_gentle_typhoon_2150rpm_69cfm_30db_fan/

With the CAD$ so weak, Daz is probably cheaper.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Are you having problems with the H80i and Corsair Link? If so, what exactly is going on? Detection?
> 
> Edit: Nvm, I just saw your post on the other thread, It's the LED on the pump. If the USB cable did not make a difference, please submit an RMA and we'll go ahead and send you a replacement. Send me a PM as soon that you get the ticket # so i can help you out with the RMA.


So, have been pretty lazy with this and about our last talk about my H80i corsair rma process about faulty corsair link stuff
( http://www.overclock.net/t/612436/official-corsair-hydro-series-club/24660#post_21615343 )
So, i was planning again more about this rma process, needed informations was able to find from original product box?


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> So, have been pretty lazy with this and about our last talk about my H80i corsair rma process about faulty corsair link stuff
> ( http://www.overclock.net/t/612436/official-corsair-hydro-series-club/24660#post_21615343 )
> So, i was planning again more about this rma process, needed informations was able to find from original product box?


You don't need the original box to process your RMA. First, you will need to submit an RMA request *here* where a ticket # will assigned to you once you have completed all the information required.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> You don't need the original box to process your RMA. First, you will need to submit an RMA request *here* where a ticket # will assigned to you once you have completed all the information required.


Yeah i remember that i dont need original box, i just asked did i was able to get needed informations from product (product codes etc) from original box so i wouldnt need to rip the cooler off from pc yet?

E: and how the product sending back to you guy's was going, did i need to pay the packet myself to ship there ooor? (bankaccount balance now: 1.28€)


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Yeah i remember that i dont need original box, i just asked did i was able to get needed informations from product (product codes etc) from original box so i wouldnt need to rip the cooler off from pc yet?
> 
> E: and how the product sending back to you guy's was going, did i need to pay the packet myself to ship there ooor? (bankaccount balance now: 1.28€)


All that info is on the cooler itself, you don't really need the box to get those info.

Post your ticket # and I'll see what I can do with your shipping process.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> All that info is on the cooler itself, you don't really need the box to get those info.
> 
> Post your ticket # and I'll see what I can do with your shipping process.


Okay i'll throw you private message->


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Okay i'll throw you private message->


Got that taken care of for you. Check your ticket for details.

Let me know if you have any questions about the RMA process.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Got that taken care of for you. Check your ticket for details.
> 
> Let me know if you have any questions about the RMA process.


Yeah, ounly one thing got to my mind, what is replasing product what you guys ship on these days for replace old H80i? New H80i or H80i GT?
E: and just in case asking, which side sended stuff's first? just curious becose this text from email:
"Once Corsair physically receives your item, your replacement will be processed and shipped."


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Yeah, ounly one thing got to my mind, what is replasing product what you guys ship on these days for replace old H80i? New H80i or H80i GT?
> E: and just in case asking, which side sended stuff's first? just curious becose this text from email:
> "Once Corsair physically receives your item, your replacement will be processed and shipped."


Corsair sends after they receive yours, so you send first - based on that quote there.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

if we don't have the H80i in stock, then they will most likely offer you the H80i GT. So it depends.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Corsair sends after they receive yours, so you send first - based on that quote there.


Correct.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> if we don't have the H80i in stock, then they will most likely offer you the H80i GT. So it depends.
> Correct.


Okay, then i have to look all those stuff's what came with cooler itself if i can find them all, i think i should have all in save still...


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Okay, then i have to look all those stuff's what came with cooler itself if i can find them all, i think i should have all in save still...


We really don't need all the accessories that came with your cooler. The cooler itself and the 2 fans are enough to process your RMA.


----------



## Bezna

Sorry if I missed a solution about this. I've searched the forum for H100i GTX Custom Fan Curve linked to the CPU temp not Cooler temp and I couldn't find a solution.

Here is a thread I started on the Corsair forums and I haven't gotten a response yet so I'm trying it out here.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks

http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149326
Quote:


> Sorry if this is a re-post of someone else's problem but I cant seem to find a solution. I've even called Corsair CS and they told me it was normal but I don't know what to believe anymore.
> 
> I had a pump failure on my old H100 and Corsair sent me the H100i GTX.
> Everything seems to work perfect except the fan curve. For the life of me I've tried almost everything I can think of. Uninstalled latest drivers / driver sweeper and then reinstalled.
> I've tried the driver set previous to the latest one as well. I've tried grouping the GTX cooler fan to other group temps and still no luck. The cooler fan wont even let me group it to the CPU - 2700k Temp.
> Switched the USB headers, I even tried ColHannibal's SIV workaround and didnt really help. ( viewable here : http://forum.corsair.com/forums/show...n+curve&page=2 )
> The fan curve just wont respond to high CPU temps.
> 
> When I called CS they told me the only way it works is if you group the Cooler fan with the cooler temp. So the cooler temp idles around 36c and peaks at around 40c when running Prime 95 for at least 10 mins. My question is why cant I set the Cooler Fans Curve to my CPU temp changes not the slow Cooler Temp changes?
> 
> So i set my fan curve to match the Cooler temp istead of the Cpu temp ( which blows my mind thinking of the instant temp spikes associated with running CPU demanding games / benchmarks ). That is the only curve that seems to work and it takes between 5 and 10 mins for each point to update. (which you can see in the screen shot below they are only 1c or 2c apart )
> 
> By the way the pump does respond to performance / quiet mode. Fan do work in performance / quiet mode as well. from 800 rpm in quiet mode to 2600 I believe in performance.
> 
> Bellow I've attached a couple screen shots to show you my curve and stats.
> 
> My current rig is in the PC specs. Running windows 7 64 bit.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vio2700k*
> 
> Sorry if I missed a solution about this. I've searched the forum for H100i GTX Custom Fan Curve linked to the CPU temp not Cooler temp and I couldn't find a solution.
> 
> Here is a thread I started on the Corsair forums and I haven't gotten a response yet so I'm trying it out here.
> 
> Any help is appreciated. Thanks
> 
> http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149326
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


New coolers can only be attached to coolant temp and not CPU temp.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> We really don't need all the accessories that came with your cooler. The cooler itself and the 2 fans are enough to process your RMA.


Oh, nice, thanks








Now i have to figure where i print that paper hmm

I propably should pack cooler with box inside another box? (as cooler inside original box what's inside littlebit bigger box?)


----------



## Bezna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> New coolers can only be attached to coolant temp and not CPU temp.


Not cool corsair...

Will we ever get an update with the option to change it back to CPU temp?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vio2700k*
> 
> Not cool corsair...
> 
> Will we ever get an update with the option to change it back to CPU temp?


What version of the software are you running? I'm on 3.2.5695, and it looks like the grouping works as CS said on mine. If you have the radiator fans tied to the CPU temps, you'll pretty much just be making more noise with the fans. An AIO cooler isn't like an air heatsink, since the pump and the liquid in the system are going to be doing the majority of the cooling. With a regular heatsink, the heat dissipation is completely reliant on airflow and the heatsink. So with an AIO, it makes more sense to have the fans tied to the liquid temperature, since the liquid is handling the heat transfer.

I can't find the explanation I'd received before, but this should be the general idea. If I'm wrong on this, feel free to correct me.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> What version of the software are you running? I'm on 3.2.5695, and it looks like the grouping works as CS said on mine. If you have the radiator fans tied to the CPU temps, you'll pretty much just be making more noise with the fans. An AIO cooler isn't like an air heatsink, since the pump and the liquid in the system are going to be doing the majority of the cooling. With a regular heatsink, the heat dissipation is completely reliant on airflow and the heatsink. So with an AIO, it makes more sense to have the fans tied to the liquid temperature, since the liquid is handling the heat transfer.
> :


In a nutshell, this is correct. ideally, you want your fan curve to behave based on your coolant temp and not CPU temp, since your cooler's coolant is the one that dissipates heat from the cold plate which is directly in contact with your CPU (source). The fans that are on the rad are meant to cool the radiator where the coolant circulates to release the heat that's coming from the cold plate.

Plus, coolant temp has a gradual and steady pace when it's rising/dropping, having your rad fan's rpm react to it will result a steady rpm change as it ramps up and down.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> In a nutshell, this is correct. ideally, you want your fan curve to behave based on your coolant temp and not CPU temp, since your cooler's coolant is the one that dissipates heat from the cold plate which is directly in contact with your CPU (source). The fans that are on the rad are meant to cool the radiator where the coolant circulates to release the heat that's coming from the cold plate.
> 
> Plus, coolant temp has a gradual and steady pace when it's rising/dropping, having your rad fan's rpm react to it will result a steady rpm change as it ramps up and down.


Cool, I didn't think I was too far off there. When I set my fans to the CPU temp, they were jumpy - noticeably accelerating and decelerating. You definitely get smoother transitions when you go with the liquid temps.

vio2700k, here's the fan curve I have set for mine, I'm running 4 of the stock H100i fans (bought 2 on eBay) as intake:



Mine is set to be fairly aggressive. I sit about 3' from the wall A/C, and I don't hear my fans unless I'm purposely trying to.







The levels can always be fine-tuned for your personal preferences.


----------



## Bezna

Thanks Blaze2210, I'll try out your fan curve as well. I understand yours and Corsair Joseph's explanation and it makes sense. I just figured we could have the option to use any of the two temp profiles. Either way the cooler does it job well. Thanks


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vio2700k*
> 
> Thanks Blaze2210, I'll try out your fan curve as well. I understand yours and Corsair Joseph's explanation and it makes sense. I just figured we could have the option to use any of the two temp profiles. Either way the cooler does it job well. Thanks


Yep, no worries! You never did answer what version of the Link software you're running. Try updating to the latest version, that's what I'm running and I have the ability to switch between CPU temps and liquid temps. But after setting it to CPU temps, I wouldn't expect you to leave it that way very long before switching it back. The amount of changes in the fan speed was pretty annoying with the CPU temps.


----------



## Bezna

Same as you, 3.2.5695 . Ya, cant change it to cpu on my end.


----------



## Bezna

I'm ok with it though now, I can alway just swap it out to performance when gaming for hours on end or folding or something.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vio2700k*
> 
> Same as you, 3.2.5695 . Ya, cant change it to cpu on my end.


Just to confirm, you're using this screen to try to change it, right?



So the fans would get dragged down to the CPU-related one that says Temp at the end. The change is almost immediate for me.



Also, out of curiosity, what fans are you using?

NOTE: Looks like the CPU load can also be used to control temps. Interesting options here....


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Oh, nice, thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now i have to figure where i print that paper hmm
> 
> I propably should pack cooler with box inside another box? (as cooler inside original box what's inside littlebit bigger box?)


As long that the cooler and the fans are properly secured inside the box, that's good enough.


----------



## Bezna

Yup, only 2 stock fans that came with them. The Groups dont let me choose any fan's either way. I guess that's what corsair told me on the phone that they are integrated in the cooler fan with the split-er.
Tried with the CPU load too.. Wont let me group it up with the Gtx Cooler fan. Wont give me the option in groups. I only have 4 icons on the left where I can drag and drop in the cooler temp group 17 as shown in the pic below.


----------



## Bezna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> As long that the cooler and the fans are properly secured inside the box, that's good enough.


lol that made me laugh


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> As long that the cooler and the fans are properly secured inside the box, that's good enough.


Well i have original h80i box still, so you think it's enought? , i just want to be sure as i usually when sending something, i pack those ridiculously bigger boxes than needed...


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Well i have original h80i box still, so you think it's enought? , i just want to be sure as i usually when sending something, i pack those ridiculously bigger boxes than needed...


Yeah, that's fine. Just make sure it's sealed all around.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Yeah, that's fine. Just make sure it's sealed all around.


Okay good, using tape isnt problem for me








Have to look can i today (wednesday 3am here) print the address paper with printer in home or may i need to visit on townhall and then there print it, and then rip the cooler from pc and throw lovely and avesome stock amd cooler to it


----------



## Bonjovi

This beauty


----------



## Bezna

Nice


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> This beauty


----------



## MTup

@ Corsair Joseph I have had my H100i for 6 months now and it's been flawless. I can run at 4.91GHz 24/7 with this setup (of course I have many other fans inside) with my FX8350. Temps reach the max (62ºC under load stressing IBT AVX) at this speed but I can say that I would never have believed a person could get past 4.6. I am going custom loop soon but I have to commend Corsair for their great engineering and design of the AIO's not to mention your support here for which I have never needed but have read much. Thank you and God bless.


----------



## nesham

@corsair Joseph can you help me with spare amd standoff's for h100i GTX?


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> This beauty
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautiful indeed







Nice work man!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> @ Corsair Joseph I have had my H100i for 6 months now and it's been flawless. I can run at 4.91GHz 24/7 with this setup (of course I have many other fans inside) with my FX8350. Temps reach the max (62ºC under load stressing IBT AVX) at this speed but I can say that I would never have believed a person could get past 4.6. I am going custom loop soon but I have to commend Corsair for their great engineering and design of the AIO's not to mention your support here for which I have never needed but have read much. Thank you and God bless.


Thanks for taking the time to share your feedback, much appreciated. I am sure others will find this information helpful, especially the ones that are still on the fence with AIO coolers.

Thank you for the kind words as well


----------



## Said Nobody

@Corsair Joseph Hello, I really need some desperate help. Currently I have the H100i, which I got months ago. Sadly, after a month, the light from the logo on the h100i stopped, then the corsair link wouldnt work. The reason I didnt bother getting it RMA is due to the shipping will cost a lot more. I still have the box but not sure about the invoice.

I wouldnt of bothered asking but I just found out you guys recently got a UK base, hope you can help.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Said Nobody*
> 
> @Corsair Joseph Hello, I really need some desperate help. Currently I have the H100i, which I got months ago. Sadly, after a month, the light from the logo on the h100i stopped, then the corsair link wouldnt work. The reason I didnt bother getting it RMA is due to the shipping will cost a lot more. I still have the box but not sure about the invoice.
> 
> I wouldnt of bothered asking but I just found out you guys recently got a UK base, hope you can help.


Sorry to hear that. That shouldn't be a problem, we'll get that taken care of for you. Submit an RMA request and I'll what I can do.

I does sound like you have faulty cooler, but before we do the RMA, since this is somehow power related, did you make sure that the cooler's SATA connector is properly plugged in to your PSU SATA port? And do you know if the cooler's pump is still running? You can check that via BIOS.


----------



## blaze2210

Corsair Joseph, or anyone who may know: what's the point of being able to change the RPM divider for the H100i pump? I've read that it's not a good idea to change it, though I did change it to see what it did. I'm just curious, what's the point?


----------



## Said Nobody

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Sorry to hear that. That shouldn't be a problem, we'll get that taken care of for you. Submit an RMA request and I'll what I can do.
> 
> I does sound like you have faulty cooler, but before we do the RMA, since this is somehow power related, did you make sure that the cooler's SATA connector is properly plugged in to your PSU SATA port? And do you know if the cooler's pump is still running? You can check that via BIOS.


Thanks for the reply, this is awesome news.

I connected everything. I tried with all the sata ports I have, even tried with a new PSU. Will be making my ticket later on today!


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nesham*
> 
> @corsair Joseph can you help me with spare amd standoff's for h100i GTX?


Not sure how I missed this. What happened to the original AMD kit? I don't think that we'll be able to send you just the standoffs. I'd suggest that you submit an RMA request and ask for the H100i Bracket kit. I am sure that our customer service will be able to process that for you.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Corsair Joseph, or anyone who may know: what's the point of being able to change the RPM divider for the H100i pump? I've read that it's not a good idea to change it, though I did change it to see what it did. I'm just curious, what's the point?


The pump divider in Corsair Link doesn't really affect the cooler's performance in any way, it is mainly for monitoring purposes. The divider 1 and 2 in Link is how you want your pump to report its rpm in BIOS.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Said Nobody*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, this is awesome news.
> 
> I connected everything. I tried with all the sata ports I have, even tried with a new PSU. Will be making my ticket later on today!


Keep me posted.


----------



## rexbinary

Think there is any benefit to upgrading the stock H80 fans to the SP120s High Performance? Best I can tell is seems like the stock H80 fans actually have better specs than the SP120s. Also what about the SP120s Quiet Edition? Would it still perform as good as an H80 stock fans but quieter?


----------



## ussoldier_1984

anyone have an issue with their pump making a clicking/rattling noise? I have the h105 and the noise stops when I unplug the pump. plug the pump back in it starts again


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rexbinary*
> 
> Think there is any benefit to upgrading the stock H80 fans to the SP120s High Performance? Best I can tell is seems like the stock H80 fans actually have better specs than the SP120s. Also what about the SP120s Quiet Edition? Would it still perform as good as an H80 stock fans but quieter?


The specs for the fans are rated at max speed, so of course the higher speed stock SP120 L fans you have will work better than the same design, same motor SP120 HPE fans at a lower RPM. Only reason to change would be aesthetics here. Both the SP120 retail versions and all the SP120 L fans (those using the same impeller anyway) perform similarly at the same fan speed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ussoldier_1984*
> 
> anyone have an issue with their pump making a clicking/rattling noise? I have the h105 and the noise stops when I unplug the pump. plug the pump back in it starts again


Try raising the pump/block unit above the rad and then below it, perhaps an air bubble is trapped in the pump impeller.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rexbinary*
> 
> Think there is any benefit to upgrading the stock H80 fans to the SP120s High Performance? Best I can tell is seems like the stock H80 fans actually have better specs than the SP120s. Also what about the SP120s Quiet Edition? Would it still perform as good as an H80 stock fans but quieter?


Straight performance, those H80/H100 stock fans are pretty hard to beat, 7.7 mmH20 vs SP120 PE 3.1 mmH20, just doesn't have the most desirable acoustics especially on full bore. With that in mind, I think SP120 PE or QE are the best compromise between performance and noise level.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Straight performance, those H80/H100 stock fans are pretty hard to beat, 7.7 mmH20 vs SP120 PE 3.1 mmH20, just doesn't have the most desirable acoustics especially on full bore. With that in mind, I think SP120 PE or QE are the best compromise between performance and noise level.


Yeah I don't know about those exact specs. At the same fan speed, they performed within error margin on my H75 and H100i GTX. 7.7 mm H2O for a 120mm fan is also really 4000+ RPM category


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ussoldier_1984*
> 
> anyone have an issue with their pump making a clicking/rattling noise? I have the h105 and the noise stops when I unplug the pump. plug the pump back in it starts again


Is it a new unit? if it is, then its probably just trapped air in the loop. Not uncommon for new units to exhibit this behavior for the first few days. It'll eventually work itself way out of the system.


----------



## rexbinary

Thanks guys!


----------



## ussoldier_1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Is it a new unit? if it is, then its probably just trapped air in the loop. Not uncommon for new units to exhibit this behavior for the first few days. It'll eventually work itself way out of the system.


It is about 7 months old. And it just started a few days ago. Never made this noise before but it is not getting better it is getting worse.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ussoldier_1984*
> 
> It is about 7 months old. And it just started a few days ago. Never made this noise before but it is not getting better it is getting worse.


I say double check your pump's rpm in BIOS and see if its running around 2000 r pm. And btw, which fan header do you have the pump connected? Make sure its constantly getting 12v.


----------



## ussoldier_1984

I have the pump connected to opt cpu fan header and the fans to the regular cpu fan I just picked up a 110igt to replace the 105 I liked the feature that allows you to connect the fans to the usb and control them as well as its a larger raidiator. I also picked up a amd 8350 black edition that going in now to replace my 1090t


----------



## Corsair Joseph

So you got a better cooler







That USB connector is actually for your Corsair Link SW. You will be able to customize your cooler's fan rpm and pump LED based on your CPU temp within the software... and tons of other stuff as well.


----------



## ussoldier_1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> So you got a better cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That USB connector is actually for your Corsair Link SW. You will be able to customize your cooler's fan rpm and pump LED based on your CPU temp within the software... and tons of other stuff as well.


yea so far I like the link feature I already set up the led color on the pump for temps. I have yet to program the fan speed trying to figure out what would be the best setting on the fan speed for when I O.C. my new 8350. For now I have everything set to max lol


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ussoldier_1984*
> 
> yea so far I like the link feature I already set up the led color on the pump for temps. I have yet to program the fan speed trying to figure out what would be the best setting on the fan speed for when I O.C. my new 8350. For now I have everything set to max lol


That's totally up to you. Custom fan curve is always an option in Corsair link, you can set points as to when you want your rad fans to start running at a higher rpm. You probably have to play it by ear and find out the sweet spot between your noise tolerance and how much you want to push your 8350.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ussoldier_1984*
> 
> yea so far I like the link feature I already set up the led color on the pump for temps. I have yet to program the fan speed trying to figure out what would be the best setting on the fan speed for when I O.C. my new 8350. For now I have everything set to max lol


If you're using the stock fans, this is the curve that I'm using for my H100i. It's pretty quiet, but keeps the CPU cool.


----------



## mothow

I have to take some time to test my H80i out. I just installed it and ran it .So far worst temp Ive seen was 84c but fan and pump was set at lowest speed.I have it on Balanced now and so far its been running good.But I will do some stress testing sometime this weekend


----------



## nesham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Not sure how I missed this. What happened to the original AMD kit? I don't think that we'll be able to send you just the standoffs. I'd suggest that you submit an RMA request and ask for the H100i Bracket kit. I am sure that our customer service will be able to process that for you.


I send RMA request and they answered me that they not have spare parts on lager.


----------



## MrBeer

I am going out and buying a H110 GT when pick up my parts for skylake next week But i want to change the fans. what is everone using for this.
Noctua NF-A14 PWM 140mm Case Fan
Noctua NF-A15 PWM 140mm Case Fan

or 120 mm
NF-F12 120mm PWM Fan
NF-P12 120mm PWM Fan

i know what 140 mm comes on the cooler will 120 even fit. any help would be great.

Thanks


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBeer*
> 
> I am going out and buying a H110 GT when pick up my parts for skylake next week But i want to change the fans. what is everone using for this.
> Noctua NF-A14 PWM 140mm Case Fan
> Noctua NF-A15 PWM 140mm Case Fan
> 
> or 120 mm
> NF-F12 120mm PWM Fan
> NF-P12 120mm PWM Fan
> 
> i know what 140 mm comes on the cooler will 120 even fit. any help would be great.
> 
> Thanks


You don't use case fans on a rad. You need fans with a good static pressure. Try the stock fans first and see how you like them. They actually have pretty good static pressure.


----------



## ussoldier_1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBeer*
> 
> I am going out and buying a H110 GT when pick up my parts for skylake next week But i want to change the fans. what is everone using for this.
> Noctua NF-A14 PWM 140mm Case Fan
> Noctua NF-A15 PWM 140mm Case Fan
> 
> or 120 mm
> NF-F12 120mm PWM Fan
> NF-P12 120mm PWM Fan
> 
> i know what 140 mm comes on the cooler will 120 even fit. any help would be great.
> 
> Thanks


I am using the corsair hydro h110i gt with my amd 8350 cpu and using the stock fans under full load I think the highest temp I have seen is 31c. I have yet to overclock this cpu as it is brand new (yesterday) and I want to see how it runs before I overclock it.


----------



## MrBeer

I was reading that the fans are to noises so before i went out and got it just making sure it could buy quiet fans
Thanks


----------



## rexbinary

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The specs for the fans are rated at max speed, so of course the higher speed stock SP120 L fans you have will work better than the same design, same motor SP120 HPE fans at a lower RPM. Only reason to change would be aesthetics here. Both the SP120 retail versions and all the SP120 L fans (those using the same impeller anyway) perform similarly at the same fan speed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Straight performance, those H80/H100 stock fans are pretty hard to beat, 7.7 mmH20 vs SP120 PE 3.1 mmH20, just doesn't have the most desirable acoustics especially on full bore. With that in mind, I think SP120 PE or QE are the best compromise between performance and noise level.


So I picked up the SP120 High Performance fans for my H80, and wow what a noise difference. It's SO much quieter, and I gave up zero cooling performance. My temps are exactly the same as before with the stock fans. I didn't realize how loud the H80 stock fans really were until now. I highly recommend the SF120 High Performance fans for anyone with an H80 cooler unless you are deaf.







Thanks guys!


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nesham*
> 
> I send RMA request and they answered me that they not have spare parts on lager.


Post your ticket # and I'll look into it myself.


----------



## Gereti

Ah, my rma has been processed and new replacement unit should be shipped soon to me


----------



## nesham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Post your ticket # and I'll look into it myself.


ticket number #6626606


----------



## Karibes

Hello,

I was directed here by a dear friend









I come here to ask regarding my Corsair H90. Whenever I start PC, I hear a noise, not clicking but it sounds like "farting" (please excuse me for word). Radiator is positioned on top of case. Case is Zalman Z9 Plus. I cannot move radiator anywhere except on top. Is there anything I can do with this situation?

Thank you kindly for answers.

Karibes


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nesham*
> 
> ticket number #6626606


Got that sorted out for you. I've also included a note in your ticket regarding automated email. If you have questions about it, let me know.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karibes*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I was directed here by a dear friend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I come here to ask regarding my Corsair H90. Whenever I start PC, I hear a noise, not clicking but it sounds like "farting" (please excuse me for word). Radiator is positioned on top of case. Case is Zalman Z9 Plus. I cannot move radiator anywhere except on top. Is there anything I can do with this situation?
> 
> Thank you kindly for answers.
> 
> Karibes


So it only happens when start your PC? Does it happen when you are in Windows or if you are running a program?


----------



## Karibes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> So it only happens when start your PC? Does it happen when you are in Windows or if you are running a program?


Hello,

yeah, it happens only when I start PC. Nothing happens in Windows or anything else. Whenever I play games or run a demanding programs, H90 runs fine without any noises.

Karibes


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karibes*
> 
> Hello,
> yeah, it happens only when I start PC. Nothing happens in Windows or anything else. Whenever I play games or run a demanding programs, H90 runs fine without any noises.
> Karibes


Then that's totally fine. It's not uncommon to have that kind of noise in the first few seconds during start up. Just an indication of liquid circulation in the loop is about to start. How's your CPU temp?


----------



## Karibes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Then that's totally fine. It's not uncommon to have that kind of noise in the first few seconds during start up. Just an indication of liquid circulation in the loop is about to start. How's your CPU temp?


Hello,

oh, I see. CPU temp is 31°C idle. During playing it rises up to 57°C. I use FX-6300, overclocked to 4.5GHz.

Karibes


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karibes*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> oh, I see. CPU temp is 31°C idle. During playing it rises up to 57°C. I use FX-6300, overclocked to 4.5GHz.
> 
> Karibes


Your temps are fine, I wouldn't worry about that noise.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Hey Joseph..hows it goin..check your pm please.

With a oc those temps are great..


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> Hey Joseph..hows it goin..check your pm please.


Sorry man, I haven't had the chance to check my PMs yet. I will first thing in the morning.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

edited..sorry


----------



## ussoldier_1984

Quick question about the hydro 110i GT. I have my fans set to max, noise does not bother me. But when I first start up the computer the link program does not take effect until after windows is loaded and logged in and the fans run at the lowest speed. I will be OC this and do not want any heat issues as well I am wondering if this is normal?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ussoldier_1984*
> 
> Quick question about the hydro 110i GT. I have my fans set to max, noise does not bother me. But when I first start up the computer the link program does not take effect until after windows is loaded and logged in and the fans run at the lowest speed. I will be OC this and do not want any heat issues as well I am wondering if this is normal?


That's normal from what I've seen with the H100i. The profile that you've configured in Link doesn't get loaded until the PC is loaded into Windows, but that's also where the main heat generation comes from. Your OC will be just fine.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

can anyone maybe tell me how to get link to work with h100i in windows 10? i want to try both out at the same time...i know silly ??..but till know ive always avoided link...to many issues in the past..hows the new release?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> can anyone maybe tell me how to get link to work with h100i in windows 10? i want to try both out at the same time...i know silly ??..but till know ive always avoided link...to many issues in the past..hows the new release?


Download the latest version, and configure it the way you like. Running Win10 with the H100i, the only issue I had was a minor one and was solved with the new version (fans running at 100% for a couple seconds when Link window was opened).


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Cool..will see how it pans out in the end..still a while before that can happen


----------



## Clos

Question for you guys, im working on a case build, that will no longer fit my h110. Im wondering if a H75 will be capable of cooling my lga2011 5820k (quad core)?? I don't really over clock. I just set turbo to 4.0ghz.
I figure if it can cool a gpu, it shpuld do just fine on a cpu, no?

Help would be appreciated.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

which case are yo gona be doing?


----------



## Clos

In Win S Frame. But, i am not doing a single radiator. My 980ti hybrids have a 120 dedicated to each, so I will have a spot for one 120 for my cpu. Would prefer the h75 so all the radiators are the same thivkness, but if it can't hold up, then an h80 it is.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

why not just put a 360 aio into the loop?


----------



## Clos

Because my gpus already run single 120's.... (x2 due to dual gpu's.) so i can only fit a 120 for the cpu.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clos*
> 
> Question for you guys, im working on a case build, that will no longer fit my h110. Im wondering if a H75 will be capable of cooling my lga2011 5820k (quad core)?? I don't really over clock. I just set turbo to 4.0ghz.
> I figure if it can cool a gpu, it shpuld do just fine on a cpu, no?
> 
> Help would be appreciated.


A stock cooler would cool that chip without any problems so any all in one water cooler will handle the job much better than the stock cooler.


----------



## Gereti

@Corsair Joseph Thanks for the help, got my new cooler today like 10min ago and gonna install it in couple days


----------



## nerdybeat

H100 has been on my CPU for a while, finally got the H55 for my GPU!


----------



## X-PREDATOR

nice bro...

joseph..pm please:thumb:


----------



## nesham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nesham*
> 
> I send RMA request and they answered me that they not have spare parts on lager.
> 
> 
> 
> Post your ticket # and I'll look into it myself.
Click to expand...

today arrived bracket for h100i gtx. Thank you very much.


----------



## jdj9

sexy build!!! good job!


----------



## Gereti




----------



## X-PREDATOR

thats a lot of love for corsair/noctua...









rep check the beat when you get a chance..peace


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Kinda threw out the color scheme in favor of the Noctua fans, eh? That's an awful lot of brown and tan....


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> thats a lot of love for corsair/noctua...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rep check the beat when you get a chance..peace


Hehehe









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Kinda threw out the color scheme in favor of the Noctua fans, eh? That's an awful lot of brown and tan....


Got those 3 120mm noctuas free from one guy soo... why not







(actually i got 4 noctuas free from him, used ones)
Have to just buy some moment two 120mm pwm models becose those are non pwm fans for cooler


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Hehehe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got those 3 120mm noctuas free from one guy soo... why not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (actually i got 4 noctuas free from him, used ones)
> Have to just buy some moment two 120mm pwm models becose those are non pwm fans for cooler


I can't get past their color scheme, regardless of what the performance or price is like. I feel like I'd be required to paint them. I really wonder why Noctua decided on brown/tan....


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I can't get past their color scheme, regardless of what the performance or price is like. I feel like I'd be required to paint them. I really wonder why Noctua decided on brown/tan....


Thinking littlebit same, of cource there is those silver ones what they launched some times ago but, well, "noctua is allways noctua" would be called


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Thinking littlebit same, of cource there is those silver ones what they launched some times ago but, well, "noctua is allways noctua" would be called


They have black fans, but they still shoved some brown on the corners. Noctua and their brown....Hehehe....The silver Redux fans look nice (no brown), but that's basically the "neutered" model.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> @Corsair Joseph Thanks for the help, got my new cooler today like 10min ago and gonna install it in couple days


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nesham*
> 
> today arrived bracket for h100i gtx. Thank you very much.


You guys are welcome







If you need anything else, you guys are always welcome to message me.


----------



## BLAMM0

My H70 died after two years and two months, not sure if I'm going to buy another one, but then again, I've seen the warranty period for most of them is 5 years now.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Hey rep..pm...


----------



## bonami2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> You guys are welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you need anything else, you guys are always welcome to message me.


Any idea if corsair is going to release an equivalent to the swiftech or ek. Could be awesome


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BLAMM0*
> 
> My H70 died after two years and two months, not sure if I'm going to buy another one, but then again, I've seen the warranty period for most of them is 5 years now.


Sorry to hear that. So just over two months over the warranty period? try contacting our customer service and see if you can get a one time pass since the warranty period just passed, especially when you still have the receipt, It's worth a try








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> Hey rep..pm...


Reply sent








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonami2*
> 
> Any idea if corsair is going to release an equivalent to the swiftech or ek. Could be awesome


You're referring to that AIO pre-assembled kits? I don't really know if we will get into that type of AIO cooler. No talks about it at the moment.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

http://www.overclock.net/t/1387287/x-predators-case-modifications-from-old-school-to-new/280#post_24449819

hey guys i know it not cool but id like to share something with you all:thumb:


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> You guys are welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you need anything else, you guys are always welcome to message me.


Hehe, sure








I was actually planning to get bigger 240mm/360mm in future to replace the h80i but as i got that h100i gtx from warranty, i dont need to do it








Sadly 240mm wasnt fitted my case properly, but making couple new screwholes to roof helped to fit it







(my motherboard second vrm heatsink/8pin atx12V cable blokked littlebit fan from fitting the radiator right but like it would be problem for me







)


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Hehe, sure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was actually planning to get bigger 240mm/360mm in future to replace the h80i but as i got that h100i gtx from warranty, i dont need to do it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly 240mm wasnt fitted my case properly, but making couple new screwholes to roof helped to fit it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (my motherboard second vrm heatsink/8pin atx12V cable blokked littlebit fan from fitting the radiator right but like it would be problem for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


you gotta love corsair services...they really bend over back wards for us all...their the only ones ive experienced thatll upgrade your rma if the original isnt available...amazing...
this is exactly why my next mod project is going to be a true tribute mod...

rad mount...man i dont get why manufacturers havnt picked up that if they just move the rad/fan top positioning OFF CENTER more the the opening sidepanel..theyll give you tone more room and less issues with boards and stuff....


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> you gotta love corsair services...they really bend over back wards for us all...their the only ones ive experienced thatll upgrade your rma if the original isnt available...amazing...
> this is exactly why my next mod project is going to be a true tribute mod...
> 
> rad mount...man i dont get why manufacturers havnt picked up that if they just move the rad/fan top positioning OFF CENTER more the the opening sidepanel..theyll give you tone more room and less issues with boards and stuff....


Yeaah atleast i got now good service, i have two times struggled with asrock in rma and second time my melted motherboard "was my fault" (two melted motherboards)

...how your motherboard melting is your fault when it melts top from pci-e x1 slot what wasnt never even in use and next to ramslots...

Well, asrock is allways emrh... *something*


----------



## bonami2

Hello corsair

Can you help me









I have a corsair h75 and it installed on my 4790k.

And a bag with some screw and one plate.

And i plan to change it to a am3+ mobo

But i lost my manual and it not on corsair website uh.

Do i have everything i need? I want to mount a ebay cpu without cooler. I mean it come with just cpu and no heatsink

The mobo gonna be brand new.

Thank you


----------



## rickyman0319

i have a old H50 AIO cooler. i am looking to buy Part H for the H50. I lost it. do u guys know where i can buy it?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonami2*
> 
> Hello corsair
> Can you help me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a corsair h75 and it installed on my 4790k.
> And a bag with some screw and one plate.
> 
> And i plan to change it to a am3+ mobo
> 
> But i lost my manual and *it not on corsair website* uh.
> 
> Do i have everything i need? I want to mount a ebay cpu without cooler. I mean it come with just cpu and no heatsink
> The mobo gonna be brand new.
> 
> Thank you


http://www.corsair.com/en-us/blog/2013/october/corsair-hydro-series-h75-installation-guide

For future reference, I used "corsair h75 install" for the search terms.


----------



## bonami2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/en-us/blog/2013/october/corsair-hydro-series-h75-installation-guide
> 
> For future reference, I used "corsair h75 install" for the search terms.


rep -









If your system uses any modern AMD socket (AM2, AM3, AM3+, FM1, FM2, FM2+), you'll want to consult the included instruction manual for more detailed instructions.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonami2*
> 
> rep -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your system uses any modern AMD socket (AM2, AM3, AM3+, FM1, FM2, FM2+), you'll want to consult the included instruction manual for more detailed instructions.


That sucks....Well, check this out then....It's for the H70, but should be the same for you....








https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-CkTVY2GzUU

*It's definitely for AMD....hehehe....


----------



## bonami2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> That sucks....Well, check this out then....It's for the H70, but should be the same for you....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-CkTVY2GzUU
> 
> *It's definitely for AMD....hehehe....


Yea that do show me a bit but it do not tell me if i need a cpu heatsink or not to install it.

Considering getting a gigabyte mobo + a fx 8310 but it come with no heatsink... And my memory dont remember if am3 mobo come with the bracket or it the cpu that has the bracket uh


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonami2*
> 
> Yea that do show me a bit but it do not tell me if i need a cpu heatsink or not to install it.
> 
> Considering getting a gigabyte mobo + a fx 8310 but it come with no heatsink... And my memory dont remember if am3 mobo come with the bracket or it the cpu that has the bracket uh


AMD motherboards have prettymuch allways brackets for cpu cooler (754/939/am2/am2+/am3/am3+/fm1/fm2/fm2+) (except am1 from modern sockets as it has ounly 2 screwholes for cooler while others have 4) so motherboard should have the brackets what you need to install the aio unless you bought used motherboard and ex owner has removed those somewhy and havent then installed them back

E: If you dont have those on the motherboard, you can order those like from dealextreme.com with couple €/$'s
http://www.dx.com/p/amd-cpu-fan-bracket-plastic-base-for-am2-socket-black-303337#.VggQqT1UE_4 (am2 brackets fit prettymuch allways on am3+ motherboard and ounly difference on those have those side plastics what can well, allways cut off...)


----------



## bonami2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> AMD motherboards have prettymuch allways brackets for cpu cooler (754/939/am2/am2+/am3/am3+/fm1/fm2/fm2+) (except am1 from modern sockets as it has ounly 2 screwholes for cooler while others have 4) so motherboard should have the brackets what you need to install the aio unless you bought used motherboard and ex owner has removed those somewhy and havent then installed them back
> 
> E: If you dont have those on the motherboard, you can order those like from dealextreme.com with couple €/$'s
> http://www.dx.com/p/amd-cpu-fan-bracket-plastic-base-for-am2-socket-black-303337#.VggQqT1UE_4 (am2 brackets fit prettymuch allways on am3+ motherboard and ounly difference on those have those side plastics what can well, allways cut off...)


Ok great well im ordering a new mobo so im good.

Part of my mounting part are on the intel mobo currently i think that why it seem im missing part to assemble ahah


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonami2*
> 
> Ok great well im ordering a new mobo so im good.
> 
> Part of my mounting part are on the intel mobo currently i think that why it seem im missing part to assemble ahah


Once you have stock backplate, this is all the parts you need to complete your AMD installation;


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> i have a old H50 AIO cooler. i am looking to buy Part H for the H50. I lost it. do u guys know where i can buy it?


Sounds like the silver stand offs. You can get that part from this kit; http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-h40-h50-h55-h70-h90-h110-intel-mounting-bracket-kit


----------



## bonami2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Once you have stock backplate, this is all the parts you need to complete your AMD installation;


Ok great i have them

The screw are on the intel.. That explain my first problem thinking i was missing stuff ahah

Thank you alot


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonami2*
> 
> Ok great i have them
> 
> The screw are on the intel.. That explain my first problem thinking i was missing stuff ahah
> 
> Thank you alot


yup, no problem at all


----------



## X-PREDATOR

rep..pm incoming...


----------



## MazrimCF

I have the H100i GTX on a i7-6700k stock speeds and my temps are super high under load 85c on all cores. I am using the link software and real temp to check the temperatures. This is a new build in a CM Master Case Pro the rad is top mounted with the fans blowing up thru the radiator. I took off the tim and used some AS5 then ran linx didn't complete first pass as the temps scared me. The link software indicated that the pump was running at 2000+ rpm but it wasn't helping. My room is around 25-27c. The first rig in my sig tops out around 56c during benchmark loads. I have already taken the cold plate off and redid the as5 and nothing changes. Do I have a bad cooler?


----------



## DRen72

I would reverse your fans to draw air in rather than moving warmer case air out through the radiator.

I have the h100i GTX and have it mounted in the lower front of an Antec P-280 pulling air in. My temps never go over 60 on my 6700k.


----------



## MazrimCF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRen72*
> 
> I would reverse your fans to draw air in rather than moving warmer case air out through the radiator.
> 
> I have the h100i GTX and have it mounted in the lower front of an Antec P-280 pulling air in. My temps never go over 60 on my 6700k.


From the corsair website FAQ on the H100i

"The fan installation can be done in multiple ways, but by default we would recommend having the fans mounted on the bottom of the unit exhausting air up through the radiator towards the outside of the case"


----------



## PerfectTekniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MazrimCF*
> 
> From the corsair website FAQ on the H100i
> 
> "The fan installation can be done in multiple ways, but by default we would recommend having the fans mounted on the bottom of the unit exhausting air up through the radiator towards the outside of the case"


Your temps are high. I have my H100i set up like you do and have never had a problem.


----------



## richie_2010

Can i ask what do you guys think of this.



Covers up the fans and the rad, using a led behind and an opaque back peice will give a good glow
Yet to add the one to my cpu rad


----------



## TK421

Anyone know where to find the HG10 N980 bracket for titan x? I have difficulty finding them close to the MSRP listed on corsair's website.

Also, is it compatible with H100i/110i GTX? The ones that's made by asetek and not coolit.


----------



## MazrimCF

I took it back to best buy and exchanged it after talking to Corsair tech support. These are my temps after running linx for 7min with the new H100i


I don't know what I'm doing wrong.


----------



## bonami2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MazrimCF*
> 
> I took it back to best buy and exchanged it after talking to Corsair tech support. These are my temps after running linx for 7min with the new H100i
> 
> 
> I don't know what I'm doing wrong.


Probably avx stress test.

It like putting a car on a dyno and blowing it up at 600mph


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Hey richi..looking good dude.are you going to Retail this undr gpu cool? would be so sweet!!!!!!!!!!!

REP PM INCOMING


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MazrimCF*
> 
> I took it back to best buy and exchanged it after talking to Corsair tech support. These are my temps after running linx for 7min with the new H100i
> 
> 
> I don't know what I'm doing wrong.


Bad unit about pastes under HS would be one aswell, maby...


----------



## richie_2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> Hey richi..looking good dude.are you going to Retail this undr gpu cool? would be so sweet!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> REP PM INCOMING


It will be. Wait till you see the other one









Will be opening up for pre orders tonight on the artisan store


----------



## richie_2010

A full set added to my rads.



Hope you like. If your interested send me a pm and ill get pre orders done.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MazrimCF*
> 
> I took it back to best buy and exchanged it after talking to Corsair tech support. These are my temps after running linx for 7min with the new H100i
> 
> 
> I don't know what I'm doing wrong.


That is running way hot, especially given how low your ambients are ... I don't care if it is the "Mars" version of AVX







...
Unless it's doing something screwey with Skylake I don't know about.

1) I don't think your getting good/flush contact, in the old days we would have success clearing capacitor interference by rotating the block 90 degrees and retesting.

1a) For kicks, try another stressing program like HyperPI, see my sig link, it's old but may help?

2) Try another std air cooler (Hyper 212?) to rule out your 6700 doesn't have a faulty IHS or the chip is just plain faulty?

3) put a "straightedge" to the chips IHS and check it isn't badly convex or concave ...

4) pull the mobo so you can eyeball if your getting good contact or interference from the mobo.

Hope that helps for now








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> A full set added to my rads.
> 
> Hope you like. If your interested send me a pm and ill get pre orders done.


Looks very nice!







Where were you back in the day? LoL


----------



## richie_2010

Somewhere lol.

Fancy one on your aio cooler


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> Can i ask what do you guys think of this.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Covers up the fans and the rad, using a led behind and an opaque back peice will give a good glow
> Yet to add the one to my cpu rad


Good glow you said.. you have any night shot? Would love to see how the lighting will look like









But that alone, looks awesome already!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Anyone know where to find the HG10 N980 bracket for titan x? I have difficulty finding them close to the MSRP listed on corsair's website.
> 
> Also, is it compatible with H100i/110i GTX? The ones that's made by asetek and not coolit.


I don't think that we have started shipping out the HG10 980s yet. If I'm not mistaken, it'll be this month.

Yes, all of our coolers will be compatible with the 980 bracket.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MazrimCF*
> 
> I took it back to best buy and exchanged it after talking to Corsair tech support. These are my temps after running linx for 7min with the new H100i
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know what I'm doing wrong.


Looks like the cooler's pump is running fine, so we know that's not the issue.

Try reseating the pump block and make sure you have a full contact between CPU and coldplate.


----------



## MazrimCF

I don't have another air cooler and my SD1283 would not let the board post when I installed it. I will try all the tips posted and take pictures as I can.


----------



## MazrimCF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Looks like the cooler's pump is running fine, so we know that's not the issue.
> 
> Try reseating the pump block and make sure you have a full contact between CPU and coldplate.


I have done that. Will the unit work if I turn it with the wording upside-down?


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Good glow you said.. you have any night shot? Would love to see how the lighting will look like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But that alone, looks awesome already!
> 
> I don't think that we have started shipping out the HG10 980s yet. If I'm not mistaken, it'll be this month.
> 
> Yes, all of our coolers will be compatible with the 980 bracket.


ah, didn't realize that you haven't made it available to buy


----------



## DRen72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MazrimCF*
> 
> From the corsair website FAQ on the H100i
> 
> "The fan installation can be done in multiple ways, but by default we would recommend having the fans mounted on the bottom of the unit exhausting air up through the radiator towards the outside of the case"


Yep. That's what it says. Just telling you my experience. Try it or don't. Your call.


----------



## richie_2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Good glow you said.. you have any night shot? Would love to see how the lighting will look like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But that alone, looks awesome already


The acrylic at the back is solid white so i dont think the glow will work through that as well. However the white opaque acrylic should look sweet. Ill try for night shots tonight. My camera isnt the best though


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> The acrylic at the back is solid white so i dont think the glow will work through that as well. However the white opaque acrylic should look sweet. Ill try for night shots tonight. My camera isnt the best though


you should make metal backplates with heat dissipation fins

just my 2c


----------



## bonami2

Run cinebench r15 and report max temp.

That will tell you the Normal running and game temp.

If that his high you have a problem with the crappy intel Thermal paste

My 4790k got worse with time up to the point i could not stay under 90-95c with my overclock. when before it was 80c

And now with CLU im at 74-76


----------



## MazrimCF

After taking the unit back to Best Buy my temps were still high not as high but higher than I was expecting. So I broke the system back down and found the motherboard had one standoff that wouldn't let the screw seat properly. After replacing the standoff and checking the other eight I put everything back together and got temps high 50's stock mid to high 60's overclocked to 4.8.


----------



## stanielz

i ended up going with a custom loop after i discovered that my h105's fitting were showing moisture/wetness. (i wiped it down, played with the fitting slightly and liquid was present again). It didnt do any damage that i know of because i caught it early during a visual inspection. comparing my EK customs loop's hoses/radiator/fittings to that of the h105 is a real eye opener. the AIO seems cheap all around and i will probably never use one again. I would RMA my unit since its only a year old but It was a gift and I live overseas.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stanielz*
> 
> i ended up going with a custom loop after i discovered that my h105's fitting were showing moisture/wetness. (i wiped it down, played with the fitting slightly and liquid was present again). It didnt do any damage that i know of because i caught it early during a visual inspection. comparing my EK customs loop's hoses/radiator/fittings to that of the h105 is a real eye opener. the AIO seems cheap all around and i will probably never use one again. I would RMA my unit since its only a year old but It was a gift and I live overseas.


give it to me if you don't need it :3


----------



## bonami2

No me
















Nah seriously im just going to get one when i have money







Or maybe a custom


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Ive never seen a aio leak in the last 1-3yrs..this is a very rare occurance..you should rma direct with corsair..just pm the rep or fill out a rma form
https://corsair.secure.force.com/


----------



## paskowitz

Out of curiosity, what is a used H100i worth these days?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Out of curiosity, what is a used H100i worth these days?


I've seen a couple come and go on Craigslist, listed for $100, and it seems like they get sold.


----------



## bonami2

Well used arround here in canada is overpriced like hell..

People think they can sell at buying price and or they paid it in a shop with 2x the price and think they can sell it......

Brand new have warantly too while used most people lost the receipt uh


----------



## X-PREDATOR

I see that same problem on most forums..OCnet especially..people need to get real and realise this is being dishonest..you cant sell used goods at retail/close to retail pricing..
Craigslist..and all those spots are full of criminals in discuise...always buy atcrespectable spots...if im you guys..contact corsair directly and ask. If the units warranty is still valid..give them the units barcode/serial nr etc..you might be surprised how much they care for their users...theyll always go that xtra mile


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> I see that same problem on most forums..OCnet especially..people need to get real and realise this is being dishonest..you cant sell used goods at retail/close to retail pricing..
> Craigslist..and all those spots are full of criminals in discuise...always buy atcrespectable spots...if im you guys..contact corsair directly and ask. If the units warranty is still valid..give them the units barcode/serial nr etc..you might be surprised how much they care for their users...theyll always go that xtra mile


Corsair's warranty is non-transferable. They won't honor it if it is second hand.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

true,,,but it doesnt hurt to ask..heck if it was me,,id send it anyway so they can test it and imrpove on the designs:thumb:


----------



## TK421

People might want to take a look at the Scythe apsalus 4 g5, seems to be a thinner H80i GT.

http://www.fashaoyou.net/Article/1555/82337.html


----------



## X-PREDATOR

those fans look like they can do some serious damage to air....
wonder how theyll stack up against the sp fans...mmmm


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> those fans look like they can do some serious damage to air....
> wonder how theyll stack up against the sp fans...mmmm


At least they have a square frame unlike the corsair's weird wedge shape, better air pressure for sure.

Also has a PWM rate limiter for some reason.


----------



## bonami2

Well changing fan on these cooler is not worth a lot considering the first problem is water temp and the cpu that cant transfer heat itself..

That mean the bigger radiator is the best because the water temp will stay at room temp

h105-h80i-h110i gtx Are problably the best cooler currently from corsair


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonami2*
> 
> Well changing fan on these cooler is not worth a lot considering the first problem is water temp and the cpu that cant transfer heat itself..
> 
> That mean the bigger radiator is the best because the water temp will stay at room temp
> 
> h105-h80i-h110i gtx Are problably the best cooler currently from corsair


How does the 105 compare to 100i GTX (asetek), performance and noise wise? IIRC the 105 has a thicker rad but older pump design and waterblock, that's what got me curious.


----------



## bonami2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> How does the 105 compare to 100i GTX (asetek), performance and noise wise? IIRC the 105 has a thicker rad but older pump design and waterblock, that's what got me curious.


Bigger rad

And it asetek design too of what i know like my h75.. I heard all round pump are asetek.

More water = more surface area that why a 360mm rad is not really better than a 280mm because their mostly slimmer and dont have lot more water.

48mm thick h80i 38mm h105-h110i gt gtx i think they are 38mm too aint sure.... and 27mm h100i and most other are in the 27mm range


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonami2*
> 
> Bigger rad
> 
> And it asetek design too of what i know like my h75.. I heard all round pump are asetek.
> 
> More water = more surface area that why a 360mm rad is not really better than a 280mm because their mostly slimmer and dont have lot more water.
> 
> 48mm thick h80i 38mm h105-h110i gt gtx i think they are 38mm too aint sure.... and 27mm h100i and most other are in the 27mm range


105 is 38mm
100i GTX newest is 30mm


----------



## stanielz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> Ive never seen a aio leak in the last 1-3yrs..this is a very rare occurance..you should rma direct with corsair..just pm the rep or fill out a rma form
> https://corsair.secure.force.com/


i would but like i said i went custom loop. it was purchased in the US, i live in the UK. it was a gift. id have to pay for the shipping? just seems like a like an all around waste of time. However I want people to b aware. Heres a pic of what im talking about :



At first i thought it was glue/plastic just reflecting but Ive wiped it away and it smears and comes back. h105 Less than a year old.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stanielz*
> 
> i would but like i said i went custom loop. it was purchased in the US, i live in the UK. it was a gift. id have to pay for the shipping? just seems like a like an all around waste of time. However I want people to b aware. Heres a pic of what im talking about :
> 
> 
> 
> At first i thought it was glue/plastic just reflecting but Ive wiped it away and it smears and comes back. h105 Less than a year old.


@CorsairBrandon @Corsair Dustin @Corsair Chris

also the guy from asetek @Retell


----------



## Corsair Dustin

Get thee to our customer service department post haste. Our coolers have 5 year warranties for a reason.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stanielz*
> 
> i would but like i said i went custom loop. it was purchased in the US, i live in the UK. it was a gift. id have to pay for the shipping? just seems like a like an all around waste of time. However I want people to b aware. Heres a pic of what im talking about :
> 
> 
> 
> At first i thought it was glue/plastic just reflecting but Ive wiped it away and it smears and comes back. h105 Less than a year old.


These aio coolers are very reliable. Since purchasing one three or four years ago I can count on one hand the number of people who have had leaking issues. Sorry to hear the single cooler you receiver has an issue, but considering the thousands that are sold the leakage rate is extremely low. All my friends are using them now and so far not a single one has leaked. I have sold quite a few to customers and none of them have come back. Of course I talk to them before they leave out shop and make sure they know how to properly install them.
Did you expect them to be perfect?


----------



## stanielz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> These aio coolers are very reliable. Since purchasing one three or four years ago I can count on one hand the number of people who have had leaking issues. Sorry to hear the single cooler you receiver has an issue, but considering the thousands that are sold the leakage rate is extremely low. All my friends are using them now and so far not a single one has leaked. I have sold quite a few to customers and none of them have come back. Of course I talk to them before they leave out shop and make sure they know how to properly install them.
> Did you expect them to be perfect?


I'm confused with the tone your taking. I never said all corsair aios leak. I was just sharing my experience. I've been an avionics maintainer for the Air Force for 8 years and counting. I perform air data and wiring repair jobs on million dollar aircraft. I know how to read instructions and I know how to install an AIO. So I don't know what your getting at. I don't want another unit. I never said I expected them all for be perfect. Again. Just sharing my experience, with my single cooler, yes. What are you getting at?


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Hey guys.

Quick question.

Is it normal for the H110 to be a little tight installing it on a 2011-3 board, the screws seemed a little short.
I had to use a bit more force than when I installed on on my wife's 4790k machine.

Is it normal?


----------



## bonami2

Well custom loop are even more unreliable and not better cooling wise most of the time


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonami2*
> 
> Well custom loop are even more unreliable and not better cooling wise most of the time


Less noise though.


----------



## stanielz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonami2*
> 
> Well custom loop are even more unreliable and not better cooling wise most of the time


I'd prefer it because I can take it apart and fix whatever is faulty. Also they don't sell AIOs that will cover my entire gpu block. That being said since I have 2 radiators now with my 2 blocks. My cpu temps are better than when the h105 was installed.


----------



## bonami2

Yea less noise but the h220x 249x and new ek are pretty good.

And for the temp the more rad and the thicker they are will help but a xspc 240mm cheap vs a corsair will perform worse sometime. And still cost almost 2x the price.

I do want to make custom for cpu only. But gpu arent worth it i think price performance wise


----------



## stanielz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Dustin*
> 
> Get thee to our customer service department post haste. Our coolers have 5 year warranties for a reason.


According to your warranty policy. I'd have to pay for shipping from my apo address and I'm liable if it's damaged (further) in transit from the UK to the USA. On top of that there's really no room for the h105 in my system anymore. I probably won't be RMAing this.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stanielz*
> 
> I'm confused with the tone your taking. I never said all corsair aios leak. I was just sharing my experience. I've been an avionics maintainer for the Air Force for 8 years and counting. I perform air data and wiring repair jobs on million dollar aircraft. I know how to read instructions and I know how to install an AIO. So I don't know what your getting at. I don't want another unit. I never said I expected them all for be perfect. Again. Just sharing my experience, with my single cooler, yes. What are you getting at?


Excuse my candor. I'm just saying that these coolers are as reliable as any other cooler. Anyone installing a water cooler should expect some risk, and the risk for these coolers is not any higher than it is for any other water cooler.


----------



## bonami2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stanielz*
> 
> According to your warranty policy. I'd have to pay for shipping from my apo address and I'm liable if it's damaged (further) in transit from the UK to the USA. On top of that there's really no room for the h105 in my system anymore. I probably won't be RMAing this.


0 pc hardware company pay shipping

Except if complaining like mad they do sometime


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonami2*
> 
> 0 pc hardware company pay shipping
> 
> Except if complaining like mad they do sometime


^This. It's pretty standard that you pay for the shipping to them, then they pay for the shipping back. I've seen exceptions be made, but it's better to expect that you're going to pay the shipping.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonami2*
> 
> 0 pc hardware company pay shipping


Dunno if you are referring to something else but Intel paid for the shipment of my CPU to the Netherlands, as we speak.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MazrimCF*
> 
> After taking the unit back to Best Buy my temps were still high not as high but higher than I was expecting. So I broke the system back down and found the motherboard had one standoff that wouldn't let the screw seat properly. After replacing the standoff and checking the other eight I put everything back together and got temps high 50's stock mid to high 60's overclocked to 4.8.


Glad to hear that you've got it all sorted out








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stanielz*
> 
> According to your warranty policy. I'd have to pay for shipping from my apo address and I'm liable if it's damaged (further) in transit from the UK to the USA. On top of that there's really no room for the h105 in my system anymore. I probably won't be RMAing this.


Sorry to hear about your cooler. Like what others said in this thread about leak issues, they are very rare occurrence, and if it happens, we do take care of it right away. In your case, its totally your call if you want to send it back for replacement or not via our RMA process. I'll definitely understand if you ended up just binning it at the end.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> @CorsairBrandon @Corsair Dustin @Corsair Chris
> 
> also the guy from asetek @Retell


I know Dustin and Chris, but I didn't know that there is a CorsairBrandon


----------



## X-PREDATOR

if your not too fussy..ship the u.it to me..ill fix it..and use it...gladly...thats actualy not a huge leak..its just evapiration moisture..ive seen it happen a lot on the 1st gen h series..like h80/100/60...its usualy just the orings on the barbs that arent as ok as it should be...

hey rep..sems your not alone on ocn..its a all out corsair alien invasion..ps..pm..

i see you guys sharpened up the corsair logo i little..i like it..now ill have to obtain a hi res copy of it for a new design im doing...haha..


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> hey rep..sems your not alone on ocn..its a all out corsair alien invasion..ps..pm..
> 
> i see you guys sharpened up the corsair logo i little..i like it..now ill have to obtain a hi res copy of it for a new design im doing...haha..


Yeah, looks like there's more of us that I've imagined









You should be able to get the updated logo on our website. I think it's hiding under Press section if I'm not mistaken.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

cool.thanks...you didnt answer my?? am.i allowed to mod the h100i?.just asking cause itll perf 10*more with custom tubes and destilled/res/etc...


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> cool.thanks...you didnt answer my?? am.i allowed to mod the h100i?.just asking cause itll perf 10*more with custom tubes and destilled/res/etc...


Void warranty

Are there any guides to use clc pump assembly w/custom parts?
But at that point might as well just use an apogee drive...


----------



## X-PREDATOR

the only item branded swiftech ill evertouch is the micro resV2...the others...dont bring it near me without a flame thrower, half the stuff they sell are re-branded, nothing is in house products, and i am sorry, no disrespect,just had a terrible expereince with them...

i know it voids the warrenty,, but what if im so good that i can mod the tubes without breaking a sweat?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Yeah, looks like there's more of us that I've imagined
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should be able to get the updated logo on our website. I think it's hiding under Press section if I'm not mistaken.


fou.d it..looks great..will play around and send ya the idea..dont wana post it without your aproval..incoming pm rep


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> the only item branded swiftech ill evertouch is the micro resV2...the others...dont bring it near me without a flame thrower, half the stuff they sell are re-branded, nothing is in house products, and i am sorry, no disrespect,just had a terrible expereince with them...
> 
> *i know it voids the warrenty,, but what if im so good that i can mod the tubes without breaking a sweat?*


That would usually be considered warranty fraud, which we don't discuss here.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> cool.thanks...you didnt answer my?? am.i allowed to mod the h100i?.just asking cause itll perf 10*more with custom tubes and destilled/res/etc...


If you really have the urge, nobody can stop you man. In general terms, you are allowed to do whatever you want with your cooler, but of course you should be aware of the repercussion if you go that route. I am pretty sure that you already know that by now, you've been around for a while so you know the deal right?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> That would usually be considered warranty fraud, which we don't discuss here.


Spot on


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Ok..stop the spudnick..im not trying any fraudulent behaviour...not at all rep...ya know me better than that dude...im only asking cause my project is all about you guys..and dont forget..extreme cooling...but if yiu say no..then its no go..im down with that...ill just wait 7yrs to pass then mod it..haha(joke)by then these aio kits will have evolved to kong island and back...hey rep..why hvnt yiu guys done a 360 rad version?...


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Just to clear the air...i am in no way modifying the kit..none whatsoever..i only enquired..i git my answer..thanks...any news?

I saw the aio kit your advertising with msi gpu on the website..looks so cool..and the new psu units..must say..they look yummeee


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> Just to clear the air...i am in no way modifying the kit..none whatsoever..i only enquired..i git my answer..thanks...any news?
> 
> I saw the aio kit your advertising with msi gpu on the website..looks so cool..and the new psu units..must say..they look yummeee


I thought I would point out that there is an edit function so you don't have to double post.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i know..sorry..im mostly on mobile..and not al the functions are available then to me...plus that was after 03:00am ...
sorry guys....









rep ..check the thread...busy with a side project..think you might like it..who here likes the extremly weathered look on a pc case? i mean like a tank in vietnam weathered and the desert and back....


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> i know..sorry..im mostly on mobile..and not al the functions are available then to me...plus that was after 03:00am ...
> sorry guys....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rep ..check the thread...busy with a side project..think you might like it..who here likes the extremly weathered look on a pc case? i mean like a tank in vietnam weathered and the desert and back....


I know what you mean. It's not easy editing on a phone.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Especially the 1 ive got..my other one is dead..i broke it..threw it about a couple times..oops..what can i say..ive got a extremely short fuse..hehe..

Is there a proper corsair link guide somewere?can any1point me in right direction?thanx...


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> Especially the 1 ive got..my other one is dead..i broke it..threw it about a couple times..oops..what can i say..ive got a extremely short fuse..hehe..
> 
> Is there a proper corsair link guide somewere?can any1point me in right direction?thanx...


For the software, or the unit?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Software....ill be testing the unit with win7/8.1 & 10..that is once i get an actual build going..
I just want to set it up so it doesnt start AUTO on start up..i like running things manualy..dunno..ill see when it comes to it..i just wna have a look at it so long..and havnt found an indepth guide for it yet..something that is from install to configuring every possible scenario..i sound stupid probably.but its been a fair bit since i last used this kinda software..
Hey rep..sorry..pm incoming..got a presentation pic id like to share with you


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> Software....ill be testing the unit with win7/8.1 & 10..that is once i get an actual build going..
> I just want to set it up so it doesnt start AUTO on start up..i like running things manualy..dunno..ill see when it comes to it..i just wna have a look at it so long..and havnt found an indepth guide for it yet..something that is from install to configuring every possible scenario..i sound stupid probably.but its been a fair bit since i last used this kinda software..
> Hey rep..sorry..pm incoming..got a presentation pic id like to share with you


If you want to manually start the Link software, just uncheck the "Run at Windows StartUp" box in the Options screen.










You don't really need a guide for Link, it's pretty straightforward. Whatever you get stuck on, I'm sure either myself, CorsairJoseph, or someone else will be able to help out.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Hello

any user benchmark for push vs pull vs push/pull on 240m rad or higher ?

Thanks


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Hello
> 
> any user benchmark for push vs pull vs push/pull on 240m rad or higher ?
> 
> Thanks


I'm running the H100i in push/pull, does that count? I got 2 more of the stock fans, so they're all the same.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I'm running the H100i in push/pull, does that count? I got 2 more of the stock fans, so they're all the same.


Yes. its count 240m rad









I have an H110I GT with stock fan (now) and just tomorrow will receive 2 of this fans

will install those as pull fan.. my question its worth install the stock fans as push ? or the Noctua fans enough ?


----------



## blaze2210

Those particular Noctua fans are pretty beefy! I still despise the brown (sorry, I have to mention it







), but the static pressure on these is crazy - 10,52 mm H2O versus the stock Corsair's 3.XX. I don't think you'd want to mis-match the fan performance like that, so you'd want to stick with running either the Corsair fans or the Noctua fans, but not both together. With the performance of those Noctuas, I'd run those by themselves, or get another pair of them for push/pull.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Those particular Noctua fans are pretty beefy! I still despise the brown (sorry, I have to mention it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), but the static pressure on these is crazy - 10,52 mm H2O versus the stock Corsair's 3.XX. I don't think you'd want to mis-match the fan performance like that, so you'd want to stick with running either the Corsair fans or the Noctua fans, but not both together. With the performance of those Noctuas, I'd run those by themselves, or get another pair of them for push/pull.


Thanks blaze!

I like noctua fans the quality is very good when you touch the noctua fans vs corsair vs cooler master then you say noctua place take my money









about the Color its not problem for me the fans will be invisible by the way pull config under the dust filter (Corsair 780T )



Now i have the stock fans as Push and a 3*120m (SP120) as Pull but i don't like any 120m fans anymore! 140m FTW


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Thanks blaze!
> 
> I like noctua fans the quality is very good when you touch the noctua fans vs corsair vs cooler master then you say noctua place take my money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> about the Color its not problem for me the fans will be invisible by the way pull config under the dust filter (Corsair 780T )
> 
> 
> 
> Now i have the stock fans as Push and a 3*120m (SP120) as Pull but i don't like any 120m fans anymore! 140m FTW


At least its only in the corners, but yeah, that setup should look pretty good.


----------



## bonami2

Hey guy do the h75 pump is safe running at 1500rpm (max speed ) 24/7 ? and other aio like the h105

Currently testing a gigabyte ud3p 970a and a fx 8300 and stupids manufacturer as no fan control program and or bios that work...........


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Hello
> 
> any user benchmark for push vs pull vs push/pull on 240m rad or higher ?
> 
> Thanks


We have done this comparison many times in this thread. I know, the thread is huge. Basically what we have found is that, for push vs pull you're lucky if you get a one degree difference. If I was on my computer I could offer a link. As for push/pull, it really depends on the thickness of the rad. Thinner rads will see no temp difference while thicker rads may benefit by a few degrees. I don't think you would see more than five c at the most with a thick rad. On my Corsair 600T using an H100 I saw absolutely no difference between push and push/pull. Because if this I am now just using push. You may see a bit larger difference between intake vs exhaust though. This really depends a lot on your video cards. Reference type cards with blowers tend to exhaust out the back of the case, so the interior is a little cooler than cards that exhaust inside the case. So an exhaust rad will change temps a little depending on the type of video card. Also, intake fans use cooler external air but dump it inside the case causing the interior to increase in temp. This can affect your gpu and motherboard chipset temps. Exhausting warm air from the case through your rad will help keep the interior cooler but will increase the temp of your cpu by a couple of degrees.
All in all all these factors come into play and depend on what type of case you have and what type of video card you are using.
Lastly, I much prefer exhaust for my rad because, since myy 600T has dust filters, exhausting the clean case air through the rad helps keep it clean and dust free, which helps keep temperatures down and requires less cleaning.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> We have done this comparison many times in this thread. I know, the thread is huge. Basically what we have found is that, for push vs pull you're lucky if you get a one degree difference. If I was on my computer I could offer a link. As for push/pull, it really depends on the thickness of the rad. Thinner rads will see no temp difference while thicker rads may benefit by a few degrees. I don't think you would see more than five c at the most with a thick rad. On my Corsair 600T using an H100 I saw absolutely no difference between push and push/pull. Because if this I am now just using push. You may see a bit larger difference between intake vs exhaust though. This really depends a lot on your video cards. Reference type cards with blowers tend to exhaust out the back of the case, so the interior is a little cooler than cards that exhaust inside the case. So an exhaust rad will change temps a little depending on the type of video card. Also, intake fans use cooler external air but dump it inside the case causing the interior to increase in temp. This can affect your gpu and motherboard chipset temps. Exhausting warm air from the case through your rad will help keep the interior cooler but will increase the temp of your cpu by a couple of degrees.
> All in all all these factors come into play and depend on what type of case you have and what type of video card you are using.
> Lastly, I much prefer exhaust for my rad because, since myy 600T has dust filters, exhausting the clean case air through the rad helps keep it clean and dust free, which helps keep temperatures down and requires less cleaning.


if i can add?
Pull config is also a good way to keep dust lower...push alone works but after a while it will create more dust build up..

smaller/thinner rads aio/like h60//h75 even h100 etc...with push+pull...it definitely helps...
the plus side is less niose due to you can runn all 4 fans in SYNC at ultra lower rpms (unless you live in the desert)

but your ultimately right..it all comes down to case layout and user preference...
i had a bud with h60,,gen 1..in push intake ..hes temps were always above 30-40 idle..and above 50-70 on load..non OC ...i5 2500k..
when i saw this i serviced hes setup for him on the spot...
cleaned it out..changed all his fans _+= front in/bottom in/side in- top and rear out...
plus i gave him a spare 120mm fan i had for his cooler...put it in push pull...before and after cleaning...before temps dropped 5 deg...afterwards..another 6...so all in all he went form mid 50's/70's often...to mid 40-50's...full load ...push pull min fan set curve of 30% @ 45 deg temp..on which it will ramp up once it hit that...and peak to 70% fan curve for max temps at 60deg....

so it can help...


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> We have done this comparison many times in this thread. I know, the thread is huge. Basically what we have found is that, for push vs pull you're lucky if you get a one degree difference. If I was on my computer I could offer a link. As for push/pull, it really depends on the thickness of the rad. Thinner rads will see no temp difference while thicker rads may benefit by a few degrees. I don't think you would see more than five c at the most with a thick rad. On my Corsair 600T using an H100 I saw absolutely no difference between push and push/pull. Because if this I am now just using push. You may see a bit larger difference between intake vs exhaust though. This really depends a lot on your video cards. Reference type cards with blowers tend to exhaust out the back of the case, so the interior is a little cooler than cards that exhaust inside the case. So an exhaust rad will change temps a little depending on the type of video card. Also, intake fans use cooler external air but dump it inside the case causing the interior to increase in temp. This can affect your gpu and motherboard chipset temps. Exhausting warm air from the case through your rad will help keep the interior cooler but will increase the temp of your cpu by a couple of degrees.
> All in all all these factors come into play and depend on what type of case you have and what type of video card you are using.
> Lastly, I much prefer exhaust for my rad because, since myy 600T has dust filters, exhausting the clean case air through the rad helps keep it clean and dust free, which helps keep temperatures down and requires less cleaning.


Hello

thanks you a lot for that info im using gigabyte gtx 970 SLI all hot air go through the H110I GT on the top.. but my temp is good ..

@blaze2210

The new fans here


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Hello
> 
> thanks you a lot for that info im using gigabyte gtx 970 SLI all hot air go through the H110I GT on the top.. but my temp is good ..
> 
> @blaze2210
> 
> The new fans here


Those are actually fairly presentable, they look better in black than they do in the usual tan/brown scheme.







Noctua has some really slick looking grey fans, but they're the neutered "Redux" model.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Those are actually fairly presentable, they look better in black than they do in the usual tan/brown scheme.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Noctua has some really slick looking grey fans, but they're the neutered "Redux" model.


yes the old noctua style in the case look like you have a piece of Chocolate











also noctua have no led light on any fans yet


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> yes the old noctua style in the case look like you have a piece of Chocolate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also noctua have no led light on any fans yet


"Chocolate" isn't the word I would have used, but we can go with that - they're both brown....hehehe....









I die a little bit inside when I see someone with a really nice build, one where it's clear that the person has spent time carefully matching colors, sleeving cables, and making sure everything looks clean - then they use the regular brown/tan Noctua fans.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> "Chocolate" isn't the word I would have used, but we can go with that - they're both brown....hehehe....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I die a little bit inside when I see someone with a really nice build, one where it's clear that the person has spent time carefully matching colors, sleeving cables, and making sure everything looks clean - then they use the regular brown/tan Noctua fans.


Yes i see that a lot .. at least noctua start making a fans with black/brown not like old days all chocolate


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Yes i see that a lot .. at least noctua start making a fans with black/brown not like old days all chocolate


True, I'd actually consider the black ones - especially after seeing the specs on them. The brown in the corners would be super-easy to hide or re-paint.

I was looking for a good example of what I was talking about, then came across this pic. Someone really likes Noctua fans, apparently. At this point, the fans actually match, since the theme is obviously "Noctua Overkill".











Found it! A good example of a nice color theme being messed up:


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I was looking for a good example of what I was talking about, then came across this pic. Someone really likes Noctua fans, apparently. At this point, the fans match, since the theme is obviously "Noctua Overkill".


WTH man!!! what is that









He just push the pushed the pushed air loool


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> WTH man!!! what is that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He just push the pushed the pushed air loool


My sentiments exactly. At that point, I'm pretty sure they were just shoving fans wherever they happened to fit.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> My sentiments exactly. At that point, I'm pretty sure they were just shoving fans wherever they happened to fit.


Some people is big joke all that fans with Noctua D15 no AIO









I know why many people love noctua ( im one of them )



the brown girl


----------



## iBruce

Not to be mean or anything, I was a HUGE Noctua "fan" haha, hehe, hoho, way back circa 2010 to 2012, but if you're still buying new Noctua fans in 2015, then you really have not been paying attention.

So many other more "decibel efficient" and aesthetically pleasing fans are now being offered by other manufacturers.

Read ThermalBench.com AND XtremeRigs.net to update your knowledgebase.

You will thank me in the morning.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Not to be mean or anything, I was a HUGE Noctua "fan" haha, hehe, hoho, way back circa 2010 to 2012, but if you're still buying new Noctua fans in 2015, then you really have not been paying attention.
> 
> So many other more "decibel efficient" and aesthetically pleasing fans are now being offered by other manufacturers.
> 
> Read ThermalBench.com AND XtremeRigs.net to update your knowledgebase.
> 
> You will thank me in the morning.


Personally, I don't particularly care about the noise of the fans, within reason of course - Deltas would probably exceed my noise limit. So long as they keep my components cool, they can go on sounding like a hair dryer (I'm talking about you, ACX 2.0 cooler).

I like the stock fans that come with the H100i, with a custom fan curve, they're pretty quiet. I'm sure there are better ones, but I got a pair of them in excellent condition for ~$14 shipped on eBay. It's pretty hard to beat that....


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Personally, I don't particularly care about the noise of the fans, within reason of course - Deltas would probably exceed my noise limit. So long as they keep my components cool, they can go on sounding like a hair dryer (I'm talking about you, ACX 2.0 cooler).
> 
> I like the stock fans that come with the H100i, with a custom fan curve, they're pretty quiet. I'm sure there are better ones, but I got a pair of them in excellent condition for ~$14 shipped on eBay. It's pretty hard to beat that....


Ahhhh, easy to please, I like that.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Ahhhh, easy to please, I like that.


I always have something else on in the room anyways - fan, A/C, video, etc. So unless everything else is off, the chances are pretty good that I won't care to distinguish a fan in my PC from the 12" Vornado fan I have, or the wall A/C unit. If it ever happens to get too loud, I have headphones.


----------



## DRen72

Wanted to share my h100i installation. I thought it unique since I couldn't find any posts online with similar. I'm using an Antec P280 case but instead of mounting the radiator up top, I mounted mine internally between the hard drive divide and the motherboard area. Mounted in this way it serves as an intake pulling in air from the front. My 6700k idles around 26-28 degrees and with an evga 980 GTX I've yet to see my cpu over 60 degrees. All hot air is removed via three fans, one rear and two on top.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRen72*
> 
> Wanted to share my h100i installation. I thought it unique since I couldn't find any posts online with similar. I'm using an Antec P280 case but instead of mounting the radiator up top, I mounted mine internally between the hard drive divide and the motherboard area. Mounted in this way it serves as an intake pulling in air from the front. My 6700k idles around 26-28 degrees and with an evga 980 GTX I've yet to see my cpu over 60 degrees. All hot air is removed via three fans, one rear and two on top.


No pics?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

me also wana see...

Corsair rep.please..pm//ive got urgent news to discuss...

sorry members..i know you dont like it...

maybe youll like this

http://s376.photobucket.com/user/X-...G PICS/2015-10-14-171219_zpsv1j1w17f.jpg.html


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRen72*
> 
> Wanted to share my h100i installation. I thought it unique since I couldn't find any posts online with similar. I'm using an Antec P280 case but instead of mounting the radiator up top, I mounted mine internally between the hard drive divide and the motherboard area. Mounted in this way it serves as an intake pulling in air from the front. My 6700k idles around 26-28 degrees and with an evga 980 GTX I've yet to see my cpu over 60 degrees. All hot air is removed via three fans, one rear and two on top.


blaze is right, photos would be nice







I'd like to see how you mounted it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> me also wana see...
> Corsair rep.please..pm//ive got urgent news to discuss...


PM sent


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Thanks..replied...

Hey does corsair
Have old spare h70 parts still in storage maybe? I think ive got a crazy idea cooking in my head again..hehe

great thread peeps..good to see people support such a great company


----------



## GLeviathen

Hello all,

I just build a new computer yesterday.
I am a bit worried about the temps of my build.

My build:
Case: Thermaltake Chaser A71
MB: Asus Maximus VIII hero
Ram: Corsair 16gb 3000MHz
CPU: I7 6700K @4GHz
Cooler: Corsair H100i Gtx
GPU: Asus Gtx 970 Strix
Psu: Seasonic m12II 750 Evo

My question is if the temps are normal.
At idle it sit's around 15-18 celcius, and when playing for example ark survival evolved it hits a max of 59 celcius.
When playing Battlefield 4 the temps are between 48 and 55.
I am wondering if that is a normal temp?
I'm new to water cooling...

Pics:

https://scontent-fra3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t31.0-8/10830859_977378812284689_3639934172243662482_o.jpg
https://scontent-fra3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/t31.0-8/12091426_977379055617998_803151064128673294_o.jpg


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GLeviathen*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I just build a new computer yesterday.
> I am a bit worried about the temps of my build.
> 
> My build:
> Case: Thermaltake Chaser A71
> MB: Asus Maximus VIII hero
> Ram: Corsair 16gb 3000MHz
> CPU: I7 6700K @4GHz
> Cooler: Corsair H100i Gtx
> GPU: Asus Gtx 970 Strix
> Psu: Seasonic m12II 750 Evo
> 
> My question is if the temps are normal.
> At idle it sit's around 15-18 celcius, and when playing for example ark survival evolved it hits a max of 59 celcius.
> When playing Battlefield 4 the temps are between 48 and 55.
> I am wondering if that is a normal temp?
> I'm new to water cooling...
> 
> Pics:
> 
> https://scontent-fra3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t31.0-8/10830859_977378812284689_3639934172243662482_o.jpg
> https://scontent-fra3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/t31.0-8/12091426_977379055617998_803151064128673294_o.jpg


What about the temps is concerning you? Those are low temps....


----------



## GLeviathen

Are they? I was worried they were high...
A friend told me that under load with water cooling it should be around 30-35?
It's the first time i build the pc myself. Normally i Always let the shop do the building.
I just select my parts lol. So i'm scared i put the block on wrong etc...
And my fans are set at the top of the case exhausting... Is that good or should it pull air into the case?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GLeviathen*
> 
> Are they? I was worried they were high...
> A friend told me that under load with water cooling it should be around 30-35?
> It's the first time i build the pc myself. Normally i Always let the shop do the building.
> I just select my parts lol. So i'm scared i put the block on wrong etc...
> And my fans are set at the top of the case exhausting... Is that good or should it pull air into the case?


30-35*C under load? No, not unless your ambient temperatures are super low. You can always google H100i reviews to see the type of temps they get. I'm normally hovering around 30-35 in idle, to give you an idea. My 4670K is running at 4.5GHz currently, and I have the H100i running in push/pull (I bought another pair of the stock fans) as intake.

Did you ever look up the max temp for the 6700K?


----------



## GLeviathen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> 30-35*C under load? No, not unless your ambient temperatures are super low. You can always google H100i reviews to see the type of temps they get. I'm normally hovering around 30-35 in idle, to give you an idea. My 4670K is running at 4.5GHz currently, and I have the H100i running in push/pull (I bought another pair of the stock fans) as intake.
> 
> Did you ever look up the max temp for the 6700K?


I tried to look it up but i can't find a lot of info on it or don't know what to look for.
I just used the fans from corsair that came with it.
They are set as exhaust. I guess as pull as it pulls air out of the case through the radiator.
Thank you for your info, it does ease my mind.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GLeviathen*
> 
> I tried to look it up but i can't find a lot of info on it or don't know what to look for.
> I just used the fans from corsair that came with it.
> They are set as exhaust. I guess as pull as it pulls air out of the case through the radiator.
> Thank you for your info, it does ease my mind.


No worries!


----------



## Mr-Dark

Hello

Update : just install 2 Noctua fans over the H110I GT rad as pull in the 780T case but the fans make a wind noise I read in other forums about Noctua fans good in Push not pull so switching the fans to push and install the stock fans as pull and my system full silent now even under load! also the temp very very good

Note : the noctua fans connected to board header while the stock fans to Link





The noctua fans RPM around 600 in idle and 1100 under load while the corsair fans 550 idle and 900 under load full silent system









also the temp drop by 3-5c in Push/Pull



Push/Pull FTW


----------



## DRen72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> blaze is right, photos would be nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like to see how you mounted it.
> 
> PM sent


Ok, I'll take some when I get back home and post them.


----------



## DRen72

Ok, here are the photos. Again, an h100i GTX in an Antec P280 mounted internally at the front. The front is basically open air and well ventilated. Idles at 26-28 and never exceeds 60.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Hello
> 
> Update : just install 2 Noctua fans over the H110I GT rad as pull in the 780T case but the fans make a wind noise I read in other forums about Noctua fans good in Push not pull so switching the fans to push and install the stock fans as pull and my system full silent now even under load! also the temp very very good
> 
> Note : the noctua fans connected to board header while the stock fans to Link
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The noctua fans RPM around 600 in idle and 1100 under load while the corsair fans 550 idle and 900 under load full silent system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also the temp drop by 3-5c in Push/Pull
> 
> 
> 
> Push/Pull FTW


I would recommend you put the noctua fans as pull and remove the corsair fans.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GLeviathen*
> 
> I tried to look it up but i can't find a lot of info on it or don't know what to look for.
> I just used the fans from corsair that came with it.
> They are set as exhaust. I guess as pull as it pulls air out of the case through the radiator.
> Thank you for your info, it does ease my mind.


You're looking for Tjmax, but you may not find it so easily for the 6700K at the moment. However most modern Intel CPUs typically have a Tjmax of 100C. Your temps are fine. You may get cooler temps using the fans as intakes (the air is usually cooler outside the case) but it's probably not going to be a huge difference; and again, your temps look okay so you shouldn't be too worried.

Keep in mind your idle temps really aren't quite as low as you think--you can't get lower than ambient temperature unless you're using some type of refrigeration cooler. So unless it's less than 15C in the room the computer is in, you're not getting "15C" at idle. The explanation can come from a variety of avenues. The most typical one is the innaccuracy of the DTS(es) at low temps. You have to have the understanding that the DTS(es) in the CPU *don't measure actual temperature*, they measure the _difference_ from Tjmax. _The farther away from Tjmax, the less accurate the sensors are._ So for example if Tjmax is 100C, then when the sensor is reading [the equivalent of] "70C" it's probably pretty accurate. But down at say 25C actual temperature it's probably not accurate (reading something like 15C, like you're seeing). Intel has explained this many times but it's not immediately obvious due to the way temperature reporting programs/apps/utilities show you the "temperature". The other thing is since DTS don't read temperature (like we think of the temperature on a scale), the program has to interpret the difference from Tjmax into an actual value. That is, the temperature displayed is not measured, it's _calculated_. If the program doesn't use the right Tjmax for whatever CPU it is, then the resulting temperature _displayed_ will not be accurate either.

Not sure if that makes sense but a simpler way of saying it is that a DTS in a CPU doesn't measure the temperature like a thermometer. Instead it measures the difference from Tjmax and then we can _interpret_ that as a temperature.


----------



## GLeviathen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> You're looking for Tjmax, but you may not find it so easily for the 6700K at the moment. However most modern Intel CPUs typically have a Tjmax of 100C. Your temps are fine. You may get cooler temps using the fans as intakes (the air is usually cooler outside the case) but it's probably not going to be a huge difference; and again, your temps look okay so you shouldn't be too worried.
> 
> Keep in mind your idle temps really aren't quite as low as you think--you can't get lower than ambient temperature unless you're using some type of refrigeration cooler. So unless it's less than 15C in the room the computer is in, you're not getting "15C" at idle. The explanation can come from a variety of avenues. The most typical one is the innaccuracy of the DTS(es) at low temps. You have to have the understanding that the DTS(es) in the CPU *don't measure actual temperature*, they measure the _difference_ from Tjmax. _The farther away from Tjmax, the less accurate the sensors are._ So for example if Tjmax is 100C, then when the sensor is reading [the equivalent of] "70C" it's probably pretty accurate. But down at say 25C actual temperature it's probably not accurate (reading something like 15C, like you're seeing). Intel has explained this many times but it's not immediately obvious due to the way temperature reporting programs/apps/utilities show you the "temperature". The other thing is since DTS don't read temperature (like we think of the temperature on a scale), the program has to interpret the difference from Tjmax into an actual value. That is, the temperature displayed is not measured, it's _calculated_. If the program doesn't use the right Tjmax for whatever CPU it is, then the resulting temperature _displayed_ will not be accurate either.
> 
> Not sure if that makes sense but a simpler way of saying it is that a DTS in a CPU doesn't measure the temperature like a thermometer. Instead it measures the difference from Tjmax and then we can _interpret_ that as a temperature.


Most of the second part is like chinese to me but i think i get the point.
I'm glad i don't have to worry about my temps.
I thought that with liqued cooling i was supposed to stay under 40 when under load as that is what a friend said.
He did forget to mention the temps are dif on AMD chips.
59 is normal then i guess haha.
And it's only 18C in my room so i guess the 15-20c is good/accurate ish.

Thank you for the info. Though i'm still not sure about my fans...
The front and side 200mm fans are sucking air into the case and there is a 120mm on the back and the 2 from the radiator pushing air out.
Should i add another 120mm at the bottom pushing air out? Or change the side panel to pushing air out and only keep the front 200mm to pull air in? Or leave as it is lol.
I'm very unsure as you can tell lol.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GLeviathen*
> 
> Most of the second part is like chinese to me but i think i get the point. Thank you for the info. Though i'm still not sure about my fans...
> The front and side 200mm fans are sucking air into the case and there is a 120mm on the back and the 2 from the radiator pushing air out.
> Should i add another 120mm at the bottom pushing air out? Or change the side panel to pushing air out and only keep the front 200mm to pull air in? Or leave as it is lol.
> I'm very unsure as you can tell lol.


Well you can try a variety of schemes for fans as long as you have a thought out plan on intake and exhaust (i.e. don't make everything or too many of them intake and not enough exhaust and vice versa). If your PSU's fan faces the inside of the case, you can count it as an exhaust as well; if your case has a separate air circuit for the PSU (if it's fan faces directly into a vent on the case), then ignore it.

Most cases are designed to have a certain airflow direction in mind; you don't have to follow this but it's typically the easiest way to do things and is usually the most effective given the manufacturer has probably tried it in various ways themselves. So you should probably just stick to the airflow directions/recommendations for your case. If there are none, typically you want exhausts out back and/or up top as convection dictates that "heat rises" so it's the natural flow anyway. So the higher and more rear positions are better for exhaust while the lower and more forward positions are better for intake. Typically modern cases have the spots intended for intake fans filtered as well, while the spots intended for exhaust are often unfiltered.

Keep the above points in mind and do some experimentation on your own and you should find a place where you get a good combination going.

BTW: AMD CPUs run hotter and consume more power than Intels, not the other way around. But you have to compare apples to apples. If he's comparing some dual core AMD CPU with your i7, then that's not exactly a proper comparison. Comparing something like a an FX-8xxx to your CPU, on the exact same cooler, your CPU will definitely run cooler.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GLeviathen*
> 
> Are they? I was worried they were high...
> A friend told me that under load with water cooling it should be around 30-35?
> It's the first time i build the pc myself. Normally i Always let the shop do the building.
> I just select my parts lol. So i'm scared i put the block on wrong etc...
> And my fans are set at the top of the case exhausting... Is that good or should it pull air into the case?


My 4770k overclocked by about 1ghz has a little higher temps using an h100. It must be pretty cold in your room for the idle temps to go so low considering they can't go below ambient.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> I would recommend you put the noctua fans as pull and remove the corsair fans.


Hello

At the first time I do what you say just the noctua as pull but the result very very noise at anything over 1000rpm ( Wind/whine noise )


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRen72*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, here are the photos. Again, an h100i GTX in an Antec P280 mounted internally at the front. The front is basically open air and well ventilated. Idles at 26-28 and never exceeds 60.


Not bad at all, at least you've managed to mount the cooler without compromising the cooler's performance. A bit worried that the rad wan't getting enough air to cool the coolant since it's not mounted right next to a vent. But with those temps, they sure look working fine to me


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Not bad at all, at least you've managed to mount the cooler without compromising the cooler's performance. A bit worried that the rad wan't getting enough air to cool the coolant since it's not mounted right next to a vent. But with those temps, they sure look working fine to me


I heard you guys are going to revise your rad fans to have square frames?

When is that going to come?


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> I heard you guys are going to revise your rad fans to have square frames?
> 
> When is that going to come?


Are we? I can't really comment on unannounced products, I am sure that you know that already







You'll just have to wait and see.


----------



## shadowking1711

Hello guys Sorry If im in the wrong form but i would like to ask what are the main differences in the H100i and the H100i GTX I have a 200r and I heard that you can just almost fit a H100i in there but is there a difference between the two coolers. Thank you


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadowking1711*
> 
> Hello guys Sorry If im in the wrong form but i would like to ask what are the main differences in the H100i and the H100i GTX I have a 200r and I heard that you can just almost fit a H100i in there but is there a difference between the two coolers. Thank you


Unfortunately, neither of those will fit the 200R. You will need to get an AIO cooler that has a 120 rad (H55, H60, H75, H80i, H80i GT). There isn't enough space between the top panel of the case and upper part of the mobo to squeeze in a rad+fan.

As far as the difference between the 2 coolers, GTX will be a slightly better cooler than the non GTX by 1-2°C, not massive in overall performance. But there's a few improvements that have been made on the GTX, like mounting kit is different, aesthetic is much better (different pump ID) Also, pump rpm with GTX has now an option between quiet mode and performance mode. Lastly, GTX has pump cap and radiator changeable inserts. You'll be able to choose a color insert that will match your build.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Unfortunately, neither of those will fit the 200R. You will need to get an AIO cooler that has a 120 rad (H55, H60, H75, H80i, H80i GT). There isn't enough space between the top panel of the case and upper part of the mobo to squeeze in a rad+fan.
> 
> As far as the difference between the 2 coolers, GTX will be a slightly better cooler than the non GTX by 1-2°C, not massive in overall performance. But there's a few improvements that have been made on the GTX, like mounting kit is different, aesthetic is much better (different pump ID) Also, pump rpm with GTX has now an option between quiet mode and performance mode. Lastly, GTX has pump cap and radiator changeable inserts. You'll be able to choose a color insert that will match your build.


I'm not familiar with that case, but if he were willing to use a shroud would he be able to mount a 240mm rad like the h100 and place the fans outside the case on the top inside the shroud? I have seen some cases set up like this and they look pretty good.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I'm not familiar with that case, but if he were willing to use a shroud would he be able to mount a 240mm rad like the h100 and place the fans outside the case on the top inside the shroud? I have seen some cases set up like this and they look pretty good.


That is actually a good alternative, I have seen set up like those myself, and if done correctly, they can look really good even if you have the fans outside the case.


----------



## neonraver

I've just installed my H100i GTX and i'm happy with its cooling performance however it's not quite as quiet as I would want it to be, even in quiet mode. Sometimes I can hear a slight whistle from the fans which is by no means bad, just a bit noticeable. I appreciate that the fans on the cooler are good but would I see much of a reduction in performance if I changed out the fans for something else?

The ones I am looking at are one of these:
Corsair CO-9050031-WW SP120 LED 120mm Low Noise

Will they be quieter and will they perform alright?

I also have the old fans from my Hyper 212+ that weren't as loud. They are rated: 600-2000RPM, 21.2-76.8CFM and 13-32dB


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neonraver*
> 
> I've just installed my H100i GTX and i'm happy with its cooling performance however it's not quite as quiet as I would want it to be, even in quiet mode. Sometimes I can hear a slight whistle from the fans which is by no means bad, just a bit noticeable. I appreciate that the fans on the cooler are good but would I see much of a reduction in performance if I changed out the fans for something else?
> 
> The ones I am looking at are one of these:
> Corsair CO-9050031-WW SP120 LED 120mm Low Noise
> 
> Will they be quieter and will they perform alright?
> 
> I also have the old fans from my Hyper 212+ that weren't as loud. They are rated: 600-2000RPM, 21.2-76.8CFM and 13-32dB


Try sealing the gaps between the stock fan frames and the radiator first.


----------



## NFL

Are there still plans to release colored faceplates for the GTX?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

hey rep ...why dont you guys just go back to sqaure fan frames?or ami mssing somthing?
i have an issue with the sp120s...they perfomr stellar....but when using the fanscrews with them..when unscrewing them ,,the rubber corners tend to tear and render the fan non usable..got one busted already.any ideas?


----------



## Feyris

Got h100i gtx with missing amd mounting... rma approved under proper PN (gtx variant) reps even state GTX in reply, and... then whoever sent part sends me h100i bracket not even compatible with the gtx.

So much facepalms and confusion on how thats even possible, but the order replacement form had same PN for mounting kit as box did so it wasnt that kind of oopsie...

Im sure come monday corsair will fix it but gee


----------



## X-PREDATOR

such things can happen..i have full confidence they will rectify it if you just inform them formely.....they customer service has always been great:thumb:


----------



## kennysgh05t

Hello Hello..
I can Finally Join the club.. got my self a H110.. Upgraded from my Antec kuler 620!!

Cheers


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFL*
> 
> Are there still plans to release colored faceplates for the GTX?


Yes, I personally don't know what's causing the delay, but it should be available early Nov.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> hey rep ...why dont you guys just go back to sqaure fan frames?or ami mssing somthing?
> i have an issue with the sp120s...they perfomr stellar....but when using the fanscrews with them..when unscrewing them ,,the rubber corners tend to tear and render the fan non usable..got one busted already.any ideas?


Our cooling team did their testing and compared full square frame fans and non-square fans like our SPs and AFs. It absolutely made no difference in performance, so that full frame fan vs non-full frame fan is a non-issue at the end of the day.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyris*
> 
> Got h100i gtx with missing amd mounting... rma approved under proper PN (gtx variant) reps even state GTX in reply, and... then whoever sent part sends me h100i bracket not even compatible with the gtx.
> 
> So much facepalms and confusion on how thats even possible, but the order replacement form had same PN for mounting kit as box did so it wasnt that kind of oopsie...
> Im sure come monday corsair will fix it but gee


Sorry about that.. must have been a minor mixed up with the part #s. Did you reply back to your ticket and stated that you got the wrong part? I'm sure that they'll get that sorted out in no time. if not, let me know.


----------



## Feyris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Yes, I personally don't know what's causing the delay, but it should be available early Nov.
> Our cooling team did their testing and compared full square frame fans and non-square fans like our SPs and AFs. It absolutely made no difference in performance, so that full frame fan vs non-full frame fan is a non-issue at the end of the day.
> Sorry about that.. must have been a minor mixed up with the part #s. Did you reply back to your ticket and stated that you got the wrong part? I'm sure that they'll get that sorted out in no time. if not, let me know.


It got sorted! Few more days i guess till i can push aged 1100t to limit

It was just all... *angels singing while buying gtx*, home...open it...runaway amd standoffs wuhwoh. Friday night so 2 days till monday! From wends to friday hype train kept getting faster then it was bullet to heart. Im expecting miracles


----------



## X-PREDATOR

I know it doesnt impact perf
but lile said..the rubber grommets has got to change..when using fan screws the rubber tears..the design has a flaw..the corners holes should be solid plastic with rubber around them..NOT
rubber with tiny plastic inner..
The screws grip this so tight that when removing them..the rubber bends and tears..


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> I know it doesnt impact perf
> but lile said..the rubber grommets has got to change..when using fan screws the rubber tears..the design has a flaw..the corners holes should be solid plastic with rubber around them..NOT
> rubber with tiny plastic inner..
> The screws grip this so tight that when removing them..the rubber bends and tears..


Weird. I've used several of these fans and removed and installed them several times, with a powered screwdriver no less, and never had a problem with the inserts.


----------



## NerevarReborn

Can it work to have a H110i GT radiator as front intake in a case even though that will make the pump on the CPU the highest point in the loop? Would it be a simple matter of installing the radiator with the connectors on the bottom, or would the air still escape to the pump and make noises and cause overheating?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> Weird. I've used several of these fans and removed and installed them several times, with a powered screwdriver no less, and never had a problem with the inserts.


I have never had a problem with those fan mounts either.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I have never had a problem with those fan mounts either.


I think it's the retail edition sp/af fans, not the ones included with the aio units.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> I think it's the retail edition sp/af fans, not the ones included with the aio units.


Mine are the retail versions. I replaced all my fans with them.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i will take a pic for you all to grasp what i am saying...


----------



## TK421

Seems like alienware x51 r3 uses a similar radiator setup as the corsair H5SF

wonder when that would be available?


----------



## -red-

So, I recently got a h110i gt and I am having mixed results with it.
The cooler works great but I have already exchanged 2 through amazon as both times the fans make a very annoying vibration at around 1500RPM (according to c-link) and at 2000, there's an annoying rattling. Interestingly enough this rattling noise seem to occur only when both fans are plugged, if I test them one by one, there will be no rattling. Has anyone experienced that and if so, how did he fixed it?

Another thing that has been puzzling me, I read in some places that when set in "performance" mode the pump speed should be around 3000RPM however (and this has been true for the other unit I've sent it back as well) in my case when in performance mode, the pump stays at around 2700RPM. Interestingly enough, if I click on the pump in c-link and open the "Information" tab it will report 3005 as maximum pump speed. Are pumps just like fans as in not everyone is made equal and everyone is going to be different or, I just got a defective unit?

I am using C-link 3.2.5742 and the firmware version of the h110i gt is 1.1.8


----------



## X-PREDATOR

http://s376.photobucket.com/user/X-...SUES/2015-11-01 11.31.24_zpsew3a1raa.jpg.html
http://s376.photobucket.com/user/X-...SUES/2015-11-01 11.39.07_zpsqjdteetc.jpg.html
http://s376.photobucket.com/user/X-...SUES/2015-11-01 11.41.27_zps3ilhff6n.jpg.html
http://s376.photobucket.com/user/X-...SUES/2015-11-01 11.40.14_zps6r3kdsdr.jpg.html
http://s376.photobucket.com/user/X-...SUES/2015-11-01 11.39.43_zpsafhut4vn.jpg.html

you can now see my concern.








sorry for bad pics...


----------



## NerevarReborn

No one wants to comment on my question about rad below pump, in front intake position in a case? Could it work with the hose connections on the bottom, even though the pump would be above the top of the rad? Is it always a bad idea, or does it work fine for some, without long term or instant issues?


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s376.photobucket.com/user/X-...SUES/2015-11-01 11.31.24_zpsew3a1raa.jpg.html
> http://s376.photobucket.com/user/X-...SUES/2015-11-01 11.39.07_zpsqjdteetc.jpg.html
> http://s376.photobucket.com/user/X-...SUES/2015-11-01 11.41.27_zps3ilhff6n.jpg.html
> http://s376.photobucket.com/user/X-...SUES/2015-11-01 11.40.14_zps6r3kdsdr.jpg.html
> http://s376.photobucket.com/user/X-...SUES/2015-11-01 11.39.43_zpsafhut4vn.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> you can now see my concern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for bad pics...


I have an H80i GT sp120 and the frame is plastic, no rubber inserts.

But that aside, apparently corsair did not think of repeated install/removal of this fan. Sad.

Hope corsair can fix the rubber frame, and maybe make the fan frame square in the process lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NerevarReborn*
> 
> No one wants to comment on my question about rad below pump, in front intake position in a case? Could it work with the hose connections on the bottom, even though the pump would be above the top of the rad? Is it always a bad idea, or does it work fine for some, without long term or instant issues?


It would work fine, just shake the unit a few times if air bubble create noise.

I do believe that the hose connection part is a reservoir, so keeping it in the bottom is a preferable way of doing it.


----------



## NerevarReborn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> It would work fine, just shake the unit a few times if air bubble create noise.
> 
> I do believe that the hose connection part is a reservoir, so keeping it in the bottom is a preferable way of doing it.


Thanks. It seems all manufacturers of these systems recommend always installing the radiator above or at least partially above the pump however. If air bubbles where to be sucked in to the loop when the system is turned on or something, I guess it would be a pain to have to take the pump off and shake it.. Not sure I'd wanna risk that unless there are people who successfully have their systems like that without problems...


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NerevarReborn*
> 
> Thanks. It seems all manufacturers of these systems recommend always installing the radiator above or at least partially above the pump however. If air bubbles where to be sucked in to the loop when the system is turned on or something, I guess it would be a pain to have to take the pump off and shake it.. Not sure I'd wanna risk that unless there are people who successfully have their systems like that without problems...


Shake and test pump without installing first.

This is how I have mine installed, after dry testing and shaking the pump, the air bubble issue doesn't seem to be present anymore. On some occasions the problem only resurfaced for 10 seconds or so during initial bootup.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

your correct butalong with shaking...jumper your psu and give power only to the pump/block..let it run for a hour or so..you can keep the fans hooked up also..keeps your eyes entertained









an even cooler way for mountig these in 120 form factor in the front is in the 5" bay regions...makes it all stealthy..







btw..what case are you using?

fan issue..the difference between these and the included ones is exactly that my friend...
they should look into making the corners PRE_threaded plastic -SOLID or metal pre threaded THEN add the rubbers as extra in package or just over the corners and not so thick...ive tried putting sp120s on heatsinks in the past that uses clips...have to do the ziptie method each time when tested things...
other than this...not much to say ..for a fan that can give you low niose/low temps @ only 30% fan speed=700rpm...when compared to same setups with a fan like a jetflo or blademaster or xtraflo( have had these all before) at same fan speed % but @ above 1200rpm..then the sp120s do indeed shine..









man i cant wait to get my mod finished..i just found out my brother in laws company acquired a brand new departmant intended for CNC machine work...im going to visit them soon..gonna try prusaide them to go into the pc market for modding etc...


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> your correct butalong with shaking...jumper your psu and give power only to the pump/block..let it run for a hour or so..you can keep the fans hooked up also..keeps your eyes entertained
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> an even cooler way for mountig these in 120 form factor in the front is in the 5" bay regions...makes it all stealthy..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw..what case are you using?
> 
> fan issue..the difference between these and the included ones is exactly that my friend...
> they should look into making the corners PRE_threaded plastic -SOLID or metal pre threaded THEN add the rubbers as extra in package or just over the corners and not so thick...ive tried putting sp120s on heatsinks in the past that uses clips...have to do the ziptie method each time when tested things...
> other than this...not much to say ..for a fan that can give you low niose/low temps @ only 30% fan speed=700rpm...when compared to same setups with a fan like a jetflo or blademaster or xtraflo( have had these all before) at same fan speed % but @ above 1200rpm..then the sp120s do indeed shine..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> man i cant wait to get my mod finished..i just found out my brother in laws company acquired a brand new departmant intended for CNC machine work...im going to visit them soon..gonna try prusaide them to go into the pc market for modding etc...


I'd say try the EK Vardar.


----------



## -red-

Anyone has tried to pair the H110i GT with the noctua IPPC 3000pwm fans? Are there any issues?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NerevarReborn*
> 
> No one wants to comment on my question about rad below pump, in front intake position in a case? Could it work with the hose connections on the bottom, even though the pump would be above the top of the rad? Is it always a bad idea, or does it work fine for some, without long term or instant issues?


I installed an H50 in a tower with the rad lower than the pump and it didn't cause any problems.


----------



## pr1me

Anyone know if the H80i GT is compatible with the HG10 N780 ? (i'm looking to cool 2 vanilla GTX Titan).


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pr1me*
> 
> Anyone know if the H80i GT is compatible with the HG10 N780 ? (i'm looking to cool 2 vanilla GTX Titan).


according to corsair, all AIO models are compatible with the hybrid brackets


----------



## pr1me

Thanks


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pr1me*
> 
> Thanks


Just make sure the bracket fits your video card.


----------



## robbo2

Are there any guides on using corsair link? Trying to set it up for my H100i GTX and set to quiet mode, but the fans still keep ramping up to 100% when gaming. The CPU is barely breaking 50c. I've tried custom curve too but it just doesn't work.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

When you make a specific profile or when you create a custom fan curve based on your cooler temp, make sure to save the settings under that profile you created. There is save button on bottom left of the UI.

Here's a short video that went over the basic features of Corsair Link, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDkNMElTaao. I hope it helps.


----------



## robbo2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> When you make a specific profile or when you create a custom fan curve based on your cooler temp, make sure to save the settings under that profile you created. There is save button on bottom left of the UI.
> 
> Here's a short video that went over the basic features of Corsair Link, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDkNMElTaao. I hope it helps.


I have saved the profile and watched that video but doesn't work. Another issue I am having is one fan is showing and the other is showing as it's plugged into the CPU header. I've double checked it and it's definitley the pump plugged into the header with the two fans setup as per instructions. Could I be using the wrong corsair link? I just downloaded the latest. I can only adjust the one fan.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Since you have both fans connected to the Y fan connector coming from the pump, you'd only see 1 cooler fan in Corsair link which is correct from that screen shot. You'll be able to control both cooler fans simultaneously in Corsair link through that one cooler fan icon.

With that mind, are you able to control the fan's rpm manually? meaning if you run it at a certain rpm, does the fan react to the setting that you're inputting? I'd ignore the pump's rpm at this point, since there's only two profiles you choose from. If the fan speed is complying to the rpm value of your selection, then it should follow the custom fan curve you setting it to.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Well i just want to say thanks corsair for such awesome cooler " H110i GT "

its awesome can controle 3pin fans here and for sure keep my 5820k @4.4ghz under 60c in any load


----------



## robbo2

Fans still ramping up to 2700rpm when I'm gaming despite the profile saying don't go over 1500rpm and not even getting over 50c. Right now it's sitting at 1700rpm? I don't understand why it's going over 1500rpm!!

Might have to get some Noctua's and a fan controller.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robbo2*
> 
> Fans still ramping up to 2700rpm when I'm gaming despite the profile saying don't go over 1500rpm and not even getting over 50c. Right now it's sitting at 1700rpm? I don't understand why it's going over 1500rpm!!
> 
> Might have to get some Noctua's and a fan controller.


Post a screenshot of your fan configuration in Link....


----------



## robbo2

I just have it set to quiet mode at the moment. I gave up on the custom curve.


----------



## blaze2210

I'm sure you realize that showing a screenshot of it in Quiet Mode doesn't give any useful information....The settings that you can configure for the fans is more what I was after.


----------



## -red-

At what RPM the pump should be in "performance mode" on a H110i GT?
I can't seem to find a definitve answer, I read some websites are claiming 3k but mine doesn't go over 2.7k


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-red-*
> 
> At what RPM the pump should be in "performance mode" on a H110i GT?
> I can't seem to find a definitve answer, I read some websites are claiming 3k but mine doesn't go over 2.7k


Unless something is drastically different between the H100i and the H110i, the different modes should just be affecting the speed of the fans. On my H100i, the pump stays at the same RPMs regardless of the profile I'm using.


----------



## -red-

Something is drastically different then, when I click on the pump speed in c-link I can select between quiet and performance mode, not that it makes a difference as in both cases, the pump is dead silent. I was just curious about what was the speed as there are contrasting reports.

What is not silent however, are those damn SP140L fans, they are great performers but so far, I have been through 6 of them and at 2000 RPM, they all rattle. At 1500 RPM they do send a pulsating vibration. Not sure how to explain it properly as English ain't my first language but basically, you can feel this vibration increase and decrease on the desk surface and in the noise that every couple seconds lowers and raises, really annoying.

I have been so far through 2 units and 2 RMA fans and yet there's always this annoying rattle, even when I power up the PC I can hear this very obnoxious rattling sound as soon as the fan starts. It gets better once they are up to speed, but every time I am running something that requires the fan to work at max speed, t hey start this super annoying rattling. While Corsair CS is nothing short of fantastic I am losing faith in their ability to produce a working fan. Interestingly enough the rattling issue, shows up only when the fan are in a horizontal position, there's no rattling whatsoever when they are vertical.

What would be a good replacement for the SP140L with the same (or better) characteristics? Gentle typhoon ain't an option where I live (they're sold abroad and the shipping would end up costing me twice the price of the fan) I was looking at the Vardar F3 2000rpm or the noctua industrial pwm, any suggestions?


----------



## Mergatroid

-red-

Are you sure it's the fans and not your case? It's odd that you have tried so many fans and they all have the same problem.


----------



## droidkid

Re-joining this club. My H80's fan controller died called up Corsair and they replaced my unit with a H80I GT!!!


----------



## Formaldehyde

My H80i just crapped out after a year and a half.

I first received a warning from my BIOS that I had a CPU fan failure when I tried to boot. I got past that by resetting the BIOS.

I then installed the latest CorsairLINK software which patched the firmware.

Then with the new software, I noticed that the H80i temperature never got above 40 degrees C, but my CPU would go as high as 100 degrees C at full load.

I called Corsair tech support and the tech told me the H80i was defective.

I was never that happy with the performance of the H80i anyway. My temps at full load were usually around 75-80 degrees C. But this is the final straw. I just ordered Noctua NH-U12S from Newegg.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Formaldehyde*
> 
> My H80i just crapped out after a year and a half.
> 
> I first received a warning from my BIOS that I had a CPU fan failure when I tried to boot. I got past that by resetting the BIOS.
> 
> I then installed the latest CorsairLINK software which patched the firmware.
> 
> Then with the new software, I noticed that the H80i temperature never got above 40 degrees C, but my CPU would go as high as 100 degrees C at full load.
> 
> I called Corsair tech support and the tech told me the H80i was defective.
> 
> I was never that happy with the performance of the H80i anyway. My temps at full load were usually around 75-80 degrees C. But this is the final straw. I just ordered Noctua NH-U12S from Newegg.


Think maybe your H80 was defective from day one and that's why your temps were so high? Did you RMA it?


----------



## Formaldehyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Think maybe your H80 was defective from day one and that's why your temps were so high? Did you RMA it?


Hmm. That is an interesting notion. I've been looking at i7 benchmarks for the H80i, and none of them show the temperatures I was seeing from the time it was installed until it eventually failed completely a year and a half later.

Has anybody else seen such high temperatures with i7s with the H80i under full load?


----------



## -red-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> -red-
> 
> Are you sure it's the fans and not your case? It's odd that you have tried so many fans and they all have the same problem.


Yes that was my impression as well, I've tried to tighten/loose the screws in just about any way possible on my case (Corsair 780T) but when both fans are at 2000rpm, the rattling is unbearable. It's only a single fan doing the rattling as I tested by running both fan at max RPM for 10 minutes one by one, unplugging the other from the power just to be on the safe side. It's only one fan that does this rattling but I noticed that when ran on its own, the rattling is less than when both fans are at 2k rpm. The other fan however, is dead silent (apart from the wind sound) even at 2k rpm.

Few days ago I was having an issue with a water bubble into the pump, so I laid down the case on its side and, ran it like that for 2 days, dead silence. At this point I am fairly certain that its the fans at fault here.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-red-*
> 
> Yes that was my impression as well, I've tried to tighten/loose the screws in just about any way possible on my case (Corsair 780T) but when both fans are at 2000rpm, the rattling is unbearable. It's only a single fan doing the rattling as I tested by running both fan at max RPM for 10 minutes one by one, unplugging the other from the power just to be on the safe side. It's only one fan that does this rattling but I noticed that when ran on its own, the rattling is less than when both fans are at 2k rpm. The other fan however, is dead silent (apart from the wind sound) even at 2k rpm.
> 
> Few days ago I was having an issue with a water bubble into the pump, so I laid down the case on its side and, ran it like that for 2 days, dead silence. At this point I am fairly certain that its the fans at fault here.


Wow. That really sucks. Maybe Corsair got a bad batch. I purchased their fans separately so they are not the fans that come packaged with the cooler, but I have been pretty happy with them since I purchased them last year. Rest assured that not all their fans do this.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Formaldehyde*
> 
> Hmm. That is an interesting notion. I've been looking at i7 benchmarks for the H80i, and none of them show the temperatures I was seeing from the time it was installed until it eventually failed completely a year and a half later.
> 
> Has anybody else seen such high temperatures with i7s with the H80i under full load?


Since they come with a five year warranty you might as well rma it with Corsair. At the very least you could sell it to off-set the cost of whatever you replace it with. You could always hang onto it as a spare too.


----------



## Formaldehyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Since they come with a five year warranty you might as well rma it with Corsair. At the very least you could sell it to off-set the cost of whatever you replace it with. You could always hang onto it as a spare too.


I'm definitely going to RMA it.

But now I'm wondering if I should return the Noctua I bought for a refund and trying the H80i GT instead.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Formaldehyde*
> 
> I'm definitely going to RMA it.
> 
> But now I'm wondering if I should return the Noctua I bought for a refund and trying the H80i GT instead.


That all depends on whether or not you want to have a 3lb monstrosity attached to your board, or if you want to give the H80i GTX a shot....


----------



## DeathAngel74

Can I join? H100i GTX top mounted


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeathAngel74*
> 
> Can I join? H100i GTX top mounted


No, you get out!!







I keed, I keed....


----------



## Mr-Dark

Hello guys!

anyone can help ?

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?p=822733#post822733


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Hello guys!
> 
> anyone can help ?
> 
> http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?p=822733#post822733


Very strange. I'm not too sure what could be causing your problem. All you did is replace the motherboard? I know it's a lot if work, but if you still have your old board, try reinstalling it and check your temps again. You could also check to see that the voltage on the cpu is the same as it was on the old board. Make sure your pump RPM is the same. Do the swap with your old motherboard last but it will be a good test if nothing else helps.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Very strange. I'm not too sure what could be causing your problem. All you did is replace the motherboard? I know it's a lot if work, but if you still have your old board, try reinstalling it and check your temps again. You could also check to see that the voltage on the cpu is the same as it was on the old board. Make sure your pump RPM is the same. Do the swap with your old motherboard last but it will be a good test if nothing else helps.


Thanks dude

I try that and install my hardware on old board at stock clock the temo under 50c but after any OC the temp jump to crazy level..

the water temp inside the cooler is strange now, at IDLE match the cpu temp 32c and after 5m stress hit 45c!!!


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Thanks dude
> 
> I try that and install my hardware on old board at stock clock the temo under 50c but after any OC the temp jump to crazy level..
> 
> the water temp inside the cooler is strange now, at IDLE match the cpu temp 32c and after 5m stress hit 45c!!!


I wander if Corsair would have any other suggestions? You may need to rma your cooler.


----------



## kcuestag

So... I bought the H110i GT last summer, it's been running great, and to be fair, I left it on Quiet Mode all this time and uninstalled the Corsair software as it seemed to work just as good without it.









Anyhow, out of curiosity I installed Corsair Link again today, and to my surprising, it is not detecting my H110i GT, I've checked the USB connection and it's plugged in correctly, I even used a different USB port on the motherboard.

Any idea as to why this may be happening? If it helps, last night I installed Windows 10's November big update.


----------



## OdinValk

So, I had a H100i before, it was refurbished and it eventually sprung a leak and that was that, since then I've had a CM hyper 212 evo (old standby) and now I am wondering about buying a 100I GTX or 110I GTX... anyone have any pros/cons for one or the other over what I am using now? is it worth the $100 to get one? Or should I look into something a bit more stylish like the LEPA exllusion 240 or maybe something else?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> So... I bought the H110i GT last summer, it's been running great, and to be fair, I left it on Quiet Mode all this time and uninstalled the Corsair software as it seemed to work just as good without it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyhow, out of curiosity I installed Corsair Link again today, and to my surprising, it is not detecting my H110i GT, I've checked the USB connection and it's plugged in correctly, I even used a different USB port on the motherboard.
> 
> Any idea as to why this may be happening? If it helps, last night I installed Windows 10's November big update.


There's a few different version of Link out. I ran into the same problem when I upgraded to 10 a bit ago but didn't need to run Link until maybe a month ago.

IIRC 3.2.5676 is the version you want, I tried using the latest versions and they all didn't recognize my H110i GT but the 5676 did for reasons unknown, hope this helps ya.


----------



## roberta507

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> So, I had a H100i before, it was refurbished and it eventually sprung a leak and that was that, since then I've had a CM hyper 212 evo (old standby) and now I am wondering about buying a 100I GTX or 110I GTX... anyone have any pros/cons for one or the other over what I am using now? is it worth the $100 to get one? Or should I look into something a bit more stylish like the LEPA exllusion 240 or maybe something else?


My H100i just failed bought on 1st day of release and in process of RMA
Went out a purchased H100i GTX to take its place same day

I like the H100i for a few reasons over GTX
Slimmer profile fits into top of case easier with a push/pull fan configuration
Pump had 2 separate inputs for fans and would show in Link software as 4 fans for control
Ran cooler better fin density

H100i GTX new designed pump higher speed
Bigger radiator
Better hoses
But only 1 fan input so I daisy chained them shows as 2 fan in Link software

Waiting for RMA to complete so I can do a head to head up comparison


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roberta507*
> 
> My H100i just failed bought on 1st day of release and in process of RMA
> Went out a purchased H100i GTX to take its place same day
> 
> I like the H100i for a few reasons over GTX
> Slimmer profile fits into top of case easier with a push/pull fan configuration
> Pump had 2 separate inputs for fans and would show in Link software as 4 fans for control
> Ran cooler better fin density
> 
> H100i GTX new designed pump higher speed
> Bigger radiator
> Better hoses
> But only 1 fan input so I daisy chained them shows as 2 fan in Link software
> 
> Waiting for RMA to complete *so I can do a head to head up comparison*


Really looking forward to your results!


----------



## SupahSpankeh

I wonder if you folks can help.

In Corsair Link, I have:

H100iGTX cooler pump. This object has a fan and a pump listed as components. The fan option - no matter what I set it (the PWM %) too, the fan speed (as monitored with HWMonitor, which BTW Corsair should license ASAP imo) remains the same.

Then there's an "ASUSTek Motherboard CPU fan", which I presume is the actual fan speed. Fair enough. This scales up/down with fan duty cycle. The only option here is "default mode", which I guess is because the "H100iGTX cooler pump" object's fan properties are the controller. This RPM counter does increase with CPU load, so I presume it's functional.

Then there's a H100iGTX Cooler fan, which is steady at 1140. No clue what that is.

Oh, and there's an Intel Core i5-6600k temp, which is CPUTIN, not any of the core temps.

So - my setup is as follows:

2x1600rpm EKV on top as intakes
2x2250rpm EKV on H100i GTX as intake
1 PWM splitter
PWM splitter is plugged into first 4 pin fan header from pump

Asus 170-I mITX board (it's for pro gamers, but I bought it anyway)

Is CL just funky software? Is there an alternative which will allow me to effectively control fan speed? I was hoping to slave the 4 PWM fans to the Corsair pump 4 pin for PWM control, but I can run them off'f the case fan header and only allow CL to control pump speed if I have to.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> I wonder if you folks can help.
> 
> In Corsair Link, I have:
> 
> H100iGTX cooler pump. This object has a fan and a pump listed as components. The fan option - no matter what I set it (the PWM %) too, the fan speed (as monitored with HWMonitor, which BTW Corsair should license ASAP imo) remains the same.
> 
> Then there's an "ASUSTek Motherboard CPU fan", which I presume is the actual fan speed. Fair enough. This scales up/down with fan duty cycle. The only option here is "default mode", which I guess is because the "H100iGTX cooler pump" object's fan properties are the controller. This RPM counter does increase with CPU load, so I presume it's functional.
> 
> Then there's a H100iGTX Cooler fan, which is steady at 1140. No clue what that is.
> 
> Oh, and there's an Intel Core i5-6600k temp, which is CPUTIN, not any of the core temps.
> 
> So - my setup is as follows:
> 
> 2x1600rpm EKV on top as intakes
> 2x2250rpm EKV on H100i GTX as intake
> 1 PWM splitter
> PWM splitter is plugged into first 4 pin fan header from pump
> 
> Asus 170-I mITX board (it's for pro gamers, but I bought it anyway)
> 
> Is CL just funky software? Is there an alternative which will allow me to effectively control fan speed? I was hoping to slave the 4 PWM fans to the Corsair pump 4 pin for PWM control, but I can run them off'f the case fan header and only allow CL to control pump speed if I have to.


yes Corsair link has always had some buggy-ness.. I eventually just set everything where I wanted it and got it to work and left it alone... but I no longer have a Corsair cooler.. you could try using a software called Speedfan, it is a little confusing to learn at first, but once you figure it out it works great, and a lot of people swear by it


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Can speedfan control the pump speed?

As well as the fan speed?

I guess I'm just worried that the H100i GTX pump/fans can only be controlled by Corsair Link.


----------



## OdinValk

the fans can be controlled by other programs.. the software is utilizing your motherboard to control the fans anyway.. and since the pump is plugged into the mobo aswell..It might be able to.. I never messed with the pump on mine. but ANY fan that is PWM can be controlled as long as its plugged to a 4-pin mobo connector


----------



## SupahSpankeh

It's cool, I think I worked it out. Re-installing CL made a big difference - what I didn't know (and wasn't documented anywhere) is:

- Coolant temp is the most important temp
- Can't set a speed (and indeed should disable QFan or whatever on the CPU fan header) as it needs 100% power to drive the pump
- The H100iGTX Cooler Fan can be controlled and is the most important (in my setup) speed

What I'd really like to do is link my GPU temps to the coolant temps and jack up the fan speed when either one gets high, but I don't know how to do that.

Also, I'm a bit bemused by groups. I've put the H100iGTX Cooler Pump and H100iGTX Cooler Fan in the same group as my H100iGTX Cooler Temp, but I have no idea what that does. Anyone?


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Wait, so H100iGTX Cooler Temp stayed at 25C even when core temps were hitting 40-50C. That's not the coolant temp then.

How do I link my CPU temp to the H100iGTX Cooler Fan speed? I want the fans to go faster when the CPU gets hot.


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Have X-posted to Corsair forums:

http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?p=824020#post824020

I must be missing something obvious.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Wait, so H100iGTX Cooler Temp stayed at 25C even when core temps were hitting 40-50C. That's not the coolant temp then.
> 
> How do I link my CPU temp to the H100iGTX Cooler Fan speed? I want the fans to go faster when the CPU gets hot.


I haven't used CL for awhile, but there must be a fan curve setting somewhere.. where you can set the speed of the fans to correlate with the rising temp of the cpu itself.. I cant remember if CL has a fan curve feature.. but I cant imagine there wouldnt be a way


----------



## st0necold

guys the new CL is kinda buggy with windows 10


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Wait, so H100iGTX Cooler Temp stayed at 25C even when core temps were hitting 40-50C. That's not the coolant temp then.
> 
> How do I link my CPU temp to the H100iGTX Cooler Fan speed? I want the fans to go faster when the CPU gets hot.


Go to the Groups tab and put the fans under the CPU group - drag and drop.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *st0necold*
> 
> guys the new CL is kinda buggy with windows 10


What version are you classifying as new?


----------



## smartdroid

Which one is better H110GT or GTX?


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Thanks dude
> 
> I try that and install my hardware on old board at stock clock the temo under 50c but after any OC the temp jump to crazy level..
> 
> the water temp inside the cooler is strange now, at IDLE match the cpu temp 32c and after 5m stress hit 45c!!!


If you haven't already done so, I'd get that unit replaced. Coolant temp should always be lower than your CPU temp. There's probably something going on with that pump, sounds like there's no liquid circulation.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Anyhow, out of curiosity I installed Corsair Link again today, and to my surprising, it is not detecting my H110i GT, I've checked the USB connection and it's plugged in correctly, I even used a different USB port on the motherboard.


Are you using Corsair Link version 3.2.5742? Have you tried using a previous version like what Azefore suggested?


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Wait, so H100iGTX Cooler Temp stayed at 25C even when core temps were hitting 40-50C. That's not the coolant temp then.
> 
> How do I link my CPU temp to the H100iGTX Cooler Fan speed? I want the fans to go faster when the CPU gets hot.


That's about right, 25°C is your coolant temp. Remember that coolant temp does not behave the same as CPU temp. The way it rises and drops based on load is more gradual compared to CPU temp.

If I were you, I'd put the Cooler fan under Coolant temp group instead of CPU temp group. You'd want the fan curve to have a more steady change as oppose to an erratic pattern of fan speed. Plus, the coolant is the agent that's removing heat from the coldplate, so it's more efficient when dissipating heat to have your fans react to the coolant temp vs CPU temp.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smartdroid*
> 
> Which one is better H110GT or GTX?


Technically the same in terms of performance, the rest is minor: http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showpost.php?p=782352&postcount=6


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Are you using Corsair Link version 3.2.5742? Have you tried using a previous version like what Azefore suggested?


I tried all versions, it seems to detect it just fine the first time I install it, but after a restart it's gone...


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> If you haven't already done so, I'd get that unit replaced. Coolant temp should always be lower than your CPU temp. There's probably something going on with that pump, sounds like there's no liquid circulation.


Thanks

yes there is no liquid circulation I just install my cooler on friend PC ( no case open air rig) and we stress the cpu, the temp hit 80c within 1m while corsair report 50c coolent temp and the Air coming from the rad is super cool my friend take the screw driver and slap the pump&the 2 tube and the temp drop from 82c to 61c also the coolent temp drop from 50c to 34c while the Air coming from the rad is hot

this confirm something block the liquid, since the RMA is very hard here ( high customs on anything out ) my friend give me an H100I + 30$ for my H110I GT he will RMA if something happen, now everything work just fine


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> That's about right, 25°C is your coolant temp. Remember that coolant temp does not behave the same as CPU temp. The way it rises and drops based on load is more gradual compared to CPU temp.
> 
> If I were you, I'd put the Cooler fan under Coolant temp group instead of CPU temp group. You'd want the fan curve to have a more steady change as oppose to an erratic pattern of fan speed. Plus, the coolant is the agent that's removing heat from the coldplate, so it's more efficient when dissipating heat to have your fans react to the coolant temp vs CPU temp.


I've done this, but I literally _can't_ put my H100i fans into my CPU temp group, even if I wanted to.

Seems a peculiar limitation.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I tried all versions, it seems to detect it just fine the first time I install it, but after a restart it's gone...


Let's see if a clean install will do the trick.

- Uninstall the Corsair Link software and Link USB dongle through Windows Control Panel 
- Go to file explorer, enable "Show hidden files, folder and drives" 
- Delete the following directory: C:\Users\"System name"\AppData\Roaming\Corsair 
- Restart your system 
- Install the new Corsair Link software (Even if you are on the latest) Please use the instructions below to uninstall your current version of Corsair link.

Also, try using mini type B to type USB and use one of the rear USB ports and see if you get the same result after a restart.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> this confirm something block the liquid, since the RMA is very hard here ( high customs on anything out ) my friend give me an H100I + 30$ for my H110I GT he will RMA if something happen, now everything work just fine


Just make sure to send him the purchase invoice as well, just in case he decided to RMA it for a replacement.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> I've done this, but I literally _can't_ put my H100i fans into my CPU temp group, even if I wanted to.
> 
> Seems a peculiar limitation.


You know, I totally forgot to mention that. We've actually removed that option for H100i GTX. So you're right, you can't really put the fans under CPU temp group, so stick with the coolant temp group - that's how we would recommend it anyway.


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> You know, I totally forgot to mention that. We've actually removed that option for H100i GTX. So you're right, you can't really put the fans under CPU temp group, so stick with the coolant temp group - that's how we would recommend it anyway.


K... uh... why?


----------



## Mergatroid

Because the water cools the cpu but takes longer to increase in temp. The fans help to cool the water, so it's best if they react to the water temperature. That way your fan won't spin up and down a lot reacting to the cpu temp which can increase and decrease very quickly. The fans will react to the water temp which changes temperature more slowly.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Because the water cools the cpu but takes longer to increase in temp. The fans help to cool the water, so it's best if they react to the water temperature. That way your fan won't spin up and down a lot reacting to the cpu temp which can increase and decrease very quickly. The fans will react to the water temp which changes temperature more slowly.


Spot on!


----------



## Solders18

Is it a worthy upgrade to go from an H100 to H110gtx?


----------



## cobovo

Guys any body open Corsair H100i and replace liquid inside? And result? I am owner of this AIO and have big interest.
Thanks


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Weird.

Coolant temp under load is around 26.5C. CPU hits 55-54C (6600k, no OC yet).

Whether fan duty cycle is at 40% or 100%, it still hovers around 26C.

Thoughts?

Using 2x2250rpm EKV, intake, pull configuration.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Let's see if a clean install will do the trick.
> 
> - Uninstall the Corsair Link software and Link USB dongle through Windows Control Panel
> - Go to file explorer, enable "Show hidden files, folder and drives"
> - Delete the following directory: C:\Users\"System name"\AppData\Roaming\Corsair
> - Restart your system
> - Install the new Corsair Link software (Even if you are on the latest) Please use the instructions below to uninstall your current version of Corsair link.
> 
> Also, try using mini type B to type USB and use one of the rear USB ports and see if you get the same result after a restart.


I tried everything, even a clean Windows 10 install, and nothing... I still get issues with Corsair Link not detecting my H110i GT.









It's starting to get very annoying, specially because randomly the cooler decides to put both fans on max speed for a minute or two and it is very loud and bothers...

Faulty H110i GT?


----------



## clubfoot

Did you edit the registry?

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=153706


----------



## SanderH

I will soon be installing a H110i GT in my new case. I will be placing the AIO loop in the top of my case as I've heard placing it in the front as in intake will result in hot air getting spread into your case.

What's the best practice when it comes to installing an AIO as a top exhaust:


fans under rad in push?
fans on top of rad in pull?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SanderH*
> 
> I will soon be installing a H110i GT in my new case. I will be placing the AIO loop in the top of my case as I've heard placing it in the front as in intake will result in hot air getting spread into your case.
> 
> What's the best practice when it comes to installing an AIO as a top exhaust:
> 
> 
> fans under rad in push?
> fans on top of rad in pull?


Push vs pull really won't make any temperature difference. Set them up for however they fit and look best in your case.
As for exhaust vs intake, your reasoning is sound however remember that intake is best for cpu temps by a few degrees while exhaust is best for mobo and gpu temps. I use exhaust myself but more because of dust considerations since my top case mount has no dust filter but my 200mm front intake fan does have a dust filter.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubfoot*
> 
> Did you edit the registry?
> 
> http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=153706


This is worth a shot, @kcuestag

Also, have you tried removing all the profiles in C link? then "reset to default" under Option tab > Profiles


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clubfoot*
> 
> Did you edit the registry?
> 
> http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=153706


I had to do this for my H80i.

But I ended up not using Corsairs software, and just ran the two fans off the PWM CPU and CPU OPTION headers on my Sabertooth mobo, which key off the CPU socket temp.

I found the Corsair software to "heavy" for what it does.


----------



## deathroll

I'm planning to invest a H110i GTX. What would be best fan choice for it, considering H110i GTX's radiator has high density FPI?


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathroll*
> 
> I'm planning to invest a H110i GTX. What would be best fan choice for it, considering H110i GTX's radiator has high density FPI?


Personally I'm using Noctua NF-14's on my H110, I tested a lot of other brands/types and found them the quietest and most effective.
Just don't get the black industrial versions, they are very effective, but very loud in the process.


----------



## roberta507

Was using Cougars on old H100i but it died
Installed H100i GTX and decided to try 4 Noctua NF-14's
Aside from the tan color and a being few dollars more
They are higher quality and preform more efficiently in my opinion


----------



## MazrimCF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schoolofmonkey*
> 
> Personally I'm using Noctua NF-14's on my H110, I tested a lot of other brands/types and found them the quietest and most effective.
> Just don't get the black industrial versions, they are very effective, but very loud in the process.


I am using the industrial PPC fans and I rarely hear them unless the get above 1500 rpm then it sound like the case is about to take off.


----------



## BLAMM0

How about those Noctua NF-A14 FLX series fans? I see they're less audible and have a lower rpm than the PWM series.


----------



## NFL

Pretty sure the pump on my H100 is starting to fail...it's been a good run, old friend.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SanderH*
> 
> I will soon be installing a H110i GT in my new case. I will be placing the AIO loop in the top of my case as I've heard placing it in the front as in intake will result in hot air getting spread into your case.
> 
> What's the best practice when it comes to installing an AIO as a top exhaust:
> 
> 
> fans under rad in push?
> fans on top of rad in pull?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Push vs pull really won't make any temperature difference. Set them up for however they fit and look best in your case.
> As for exhaust vs intake, your reasoning is sound however remember that intake is best for cpu temps by a few degrees while exhaust is best for mobo and gpu temps. I use exhaust myself but more because of dust considerations since my top case mount has no dust filter but my 200mm front intake fan does have a dust filter.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NFL*
> 
> Pretty sure the pump on my H100 is starting to fail...it's been a good run, old friend.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Merg as usual is right on ... +R









I'll just add that if your case isn't well filtered, I would try the fans on top (pull) as it would be easier to clean your rad. Personally I have a well ventilated and filtered case and have the fans below in the push position mostly because I use my CM200mm fan on top (externally mounted) as an additional pull fan. I have only pulled the fans 2-3x's in the 4 years I've had my H100 and really the rad was fairly clean each time from my regular cleaning/dusting methods.

I also want to add I'm still quite pleased with my H100 performance as a top exhaust push/pull setup, even when last summer I added a no external vent, highly OC'd 980Ti G1 "beast" to the mix dumping heat into the case. With my CPU overclock (4.4-4.6) I had so much performance headroom regarding load temps that with a well ventilated case it only increased the CPU load temps 3-4c staying below 60c overall while heavy gaming with average ambients (68F)! With this setup I have no problem with my G1 overclock (see sig) and the card staying below the 1st throttle level @63c-65c while loaded even with stock air cooling and a quiet 60% max custom fan profile









@NFL ... your post made me realize how old my H100 is (4+ years now) and if it will ever give me problems before the 5 year warranty finally runs out late next year. I haven't even re-seated mine it's still on the original Corsair TIM! Yours, I think is one of the 1st H100's I've read in this thread that probably is failing due to age? How old is your H100? Anything unusual about your setup/overclocks etc? It is probably still under warranty and as good as Corsair CS is your probably in for an upgraded replacement









For some that may be curious here is my slightly moded case ventilation setup ...


Rear fan grill "cut-out"


Extra X68 chipset cooling fan that we have determined also helps the 980Ti!


----------



## NFL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> @NFL ... your post made me realize how old my H100 is (4+ years now) and if it will ever give me problems before the 5 year warranty finally runs out late next year. I haven't even re-seated mine it's still on the original Corsair TIM! Yours, I think is one of the 1st H100's I've read in this thread that probably is failing due to age? How old is your H100? Anything unusual about your setup/overclocks etc? It is probably still under warranty and as good as Corsair CS is your probably in for an upgraded replacement


Bought it back in August 2011, so it's over 4 years old. 2 years cooling a 1055T and 2500k, then two years stuffed in a closet. Fan header is being held together with electrical tape, which was cut in a dismantling job gone wrong. My overclock isn't particularly aggressive (4.3ghz @ 1.2v) but it does the job nonetheless. As for replacing it, I'm fairly certain I'm getting a GTX for Christmas so the timing worked out well.


----------



## bonami2

Well now i trust asetek and my own h75

Pretty impressive to see how professional they are building those unit.


----------



## Drumma

So I just ordered a h100i gtx which was on sale and plan to use it as an exhaust on the top of my case with a pull config ( easier to clean from what heard ). I just have a question I wanted to ask before it came in if anyone can help me out. Mainly should I use the pre-applied thermal compound on there or take it off and use the AS5 I have from a recent build I did for someone?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drumma*
> 
> So I just ordered a h100i gtx which was on sale and plan to use it as an exhaust on the top of my case with a pull config ( easier to clean from what heard ). I just have a question I wanted to ask before it came in if anyone can help me out. Mainly should I use the pre-applied thermal compound on there or take it off and use the AS5 I have from a recent build I did for someone?


AS5 is worse than the stock TIM. AS5 performs a couple degrees worse, plus also has that 200 hour curing time.


----------



## smartdroid

How bad is this?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drumma*
> 
> So I just ordered a h100i gtx which was on sale and plan to use it as an exhaust on the top of my case with a pull config ( easier to clean from what heard ). I just have a question I wanted to ask before it came in if anyone can help me out. Mainly should I use the pre-applied thermal compound on there or take it off and use the AS5 I have from a recent build I did for someone?


Although AS5 has been ranked with the best TIM's for many years, the TIM that comes with the Corsair coolers is just as good. Plus, as someone else here mentioned, AS5 requires a curing time to get the best results. After running it for a week or two you will see a further 1-5 celcuis temperature drop from load temps.
AS5 is excellent TIM but I would stick with the stock TIM untill you need to remove the cooler for some reason and apply new TIM.


----------



## NFL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Yes, I personally don't know what's causing the delay, but it should be available early Nov.


Yeahhhh...about that









Anywhooooo, got myself an H100i GTX for Christmas







! Haven't installed it yet (waiting for a new, non-squeaky PSU before I start swapping out parts), but I have a question: If I set the pump to "balanced" through Corsair Link, will that setting stick even if I disconnect the header? I've heard p[people say it will, but it doesn't hurt to double check.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFL*
> 
> Yeahhhh...about that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywhooooo, got myself an H100i GTX for Christmas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ! Haven't installed it yet (waiting for a new, non-squeaky PSU before I start swapping out parts), but I have a question: If I set the pump to "balanced" through Corsair Link, will that setting stick even if I disconnect the header? I've heard p[people say it will, but it doesn't hurt to double check.


Yah been checking every week or so now for those plates..... lol

Also, yes the setting will stick AFAIK, I'm on a H110i GT however


----------



## bonami2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smartdroid*
> 
> How bad is this?


Aint that bad it should do it job..

I rmaed a gpu and got super deep scratch and it still run as cool almost.

Hum newegg.ca got the 110i gtx for 134$ for canadian. Damn Just ordered my rmx 1000.


----------



## Kerelm

Hey guys, I just ordered a h100i GTX for my 3570k. Am I better off using the 2 fans that come with it or 4 of my existing SP120s (non led) in push pull? They'll be connected to a fan controller and running max rpm but I think i read the ones that come with the cooler have a higher RPM range?

thanks.


----------



## Formaldehyde

The Corsair fans have proprietary connectors and are controlled by the pump. I'd stick with those.

I RMAed my failed H80I and received an H80I GT as a replacement, so I decided to try it instead of the replacement Noctua I had ordered. Even in quiet mode, the temperatures never go above 56 degrees C with my I7 4770K processor that uses up to 84 Watts. I was seeing an excess of 80 degrees C before, so it appears the H80i was defective from the get go and finally completely failed after 18 months. Now I'm a very happy camper.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kerelm*
> 
> Hey guys, I just ordered a h100i GTX for my 3570k. Am I better off using the 2 fans that come with it or 4 of my existing SP120s (non led) in push pull? They'll be connected to a fan controller and running max rpm but I think i read the ones that come with the cooler have a higher RPM range?
> 
> thanks.


The 4 fans will still give a slightl advantage. Best bet would be to leave the stock fans in push and use two of the SP120s in pull.


----------



## Kerelm

I was thinking the push pull would be better. I might just have to test it out. slightly lower RPM but double the fan vs higher rpm in just push.


----------



## Azefore

The change in RPM shouldn't matter much when mixing fans. I'd use the faster factory fans on the bottom and 2xSP120s on the top, might get slightly more dust build up but that's about it.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smartdroid*
> 
> How bad is this?


Not horrible. If you're really concerned you could try tinting the surface with a very small amount of TIM and then go about adding a rice-size drop to the middle of your CPU.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kerelm*
> 
> I was thinking the push pull would be better. I might just have to test it out. slightly lower RPM but double the fan vs higher rpm in just push.


Don't mix the fans if you don't have to. Either use the stock fans by themselves or use four SPs. The temperature difference will be almost nothing.


----------



## Kerelm

Yeah that's what I was thinking, I have 6 of the SPs so i got plenty!


----------



## Azefore

Still pretty sure MLL showed long ago that dissimilar fans can be beneficial with the higher CFM fans on pull and higher static pressure on push. I'd test anyways for the fun of it.

Biggest difference you could make without shrouds is to ensure there's no gap between the fan and radiator on the pulling side since Corsair's fans are round and dont cover all of the back of the radiator, same goes for any rounded frame fan.


----------



## SanderH

I'm currently installing my H110i GTX in a pull config, but I'm having somewhat of a brain freeze. To mount the radiator, I have 8 short screws, 8 long screws and 16 spacers:



Both the manual and pretty much all vids I can find online install the fans to push air through the rad.

So for a pull config I would only need the long screws (and possibly the spacers), and don't need the short screws at all? It doesn't seem like much screw is actually holding the entire weight of both the rad and the fans. Especially if you throw in the spacers at both ends...


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SanderH*
> 
> I'm currently installing my H110i GTX in a pull config, but I'm having somewhat of a brain freeze. To mount the radiator, I have 8 short screws, 8 long screws and 16 spacers:
> 
> 
> 
> Both the manual and pretty much all vids I can find online install the fans to push air through the rad.
> 
> So for a pull config I would only need the long screws (and possibly the spacers), and don't need the short screws at all? It doesn't seem like much screw is actually holding the entire weight of both the rad and the fans. Especially if you throw in the spacers at both ends...


Hello

Yes, You only need the long screws for pull config, you will be fine no worry


----------



## SanderH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Hello
> 
> Yes, You only need the long screws for pull config, you will be fine no worry


Ok, thanks. Are the spacers really necessary? Or should I only use them at one end or maybe leave them out completely so I can have more screw holding up the radiator?


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SanderH*
> 
> Ok, thanks. Are the spacers really necessary? Or should I only use them at one end or maybe leave them out completely so I can have more screw holding up the radiator?


Just use one between the fan and the screw, using the screw direct to the fan and over tight it will destroy the fan holes...


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Still pretty sure MLL showed long ago that dissimilar fans can be beneficial with the higher CFM fans on pull and higher static pressure on push. I'd test anyways for the fun of it.
> 
> Biggest difference you could make without shrouds is to ensure there's no gap between the fan and radiator on the pulling side since Corsair's fans are round and dont cover all of the back of the radiator, same goes for any rounded frame fan.


Although using different fans won't necessarily cause any problems depending how they are set up and how dissimilar they are, it's always best to use the same fans if they are available.


----------



## bonami2

Just ordered my h110i gtx and neweeg says all aio have 2 years warantly









Is it an error. Or they removed the only reason to buy corsair over other brand.

Any idea?

Corsair website is not even writed... Their own page link to something that says 5 years.. So i expect to have 5 years... Anyways corsair rma is the best i know.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonami2*
> 
> Just ordered my h110i gtx and neweeg says all aio have 2 years warantly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it an error. Or they removed the only reason to buy corsair over other brand.
> 
> Any idea?
> 
> Corsair website is not even writed... Their own page link to something that says 5 years.. So i expect to have 5 years... Anyways corsair rma is the best i know.


http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-h110i-gtx-280mm-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler

Click specs tab in upper left, warranty is stated as 5 years like it should be


----------



## bonami2

Oh great i knew it made no sense. Go home newegg your drunk.

Gonna rep when home damn phone.

Anyways it asetek so i trust


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonami2*
> 
> Oh great i knew it made no sense. Go home newegg your drunk.
> 
> Gonna rep when home damn phone.
> 
> Anyways it asetek so i trust


Ya Asetek is the best.. CooliT is bad the lama H110I GT fail on me after 3 month


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Ya Asetek is the best.. CooliT is bad the lama H110I GT fail on me after 3 month


Read H110i GTX also had some bad eggs in the initial batch, same could be the same for most Rev.1 AIOs. NZXT's Asetek units are no different with the X61 having quite a few issues in the beginning as well.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Read H110i GTX also had some bad eggs in the initial batch, same could be the same for most Rev.1 AIOs. NZXT's Asetek units are no different with the X61 having quite a few issues in the beginning as well.


Ya no doubt, first Rev is bad or many have problems.. now with H100i and the temp is better than what H110i GT done...


----------



## bonami2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Read H110i GTX also had some bad eggs in the initial batch, same could be the same for most Rev.1 AIOs. NZXT's Asetek units are no different with the X61 having quite a few issues in the beginning as well.


It like the rev 5 on asetek part...

But well googled a bit and both offer Server cooling so i think that all maybe about luck.. Since Fish pump are probably build the same ways and last 10 years...

My h75 is doing well so i decided to get asetek and it was cheaper currently









Now my pc is in part and im too lazy to install my new rm1000x


----------



## Azefore

It is about luck, its the way with most initial batches of anything.

Surprised to hear that a H100i is doing better than an H110i however


----------



## SanderH

Just installed a H110i GTX in my Define S.

I'm a bit disappointed that I wasn't able to install the fans using a pull config, since the radiator is too wide and gets blocked by the edges of the motherboard backplate of the case. Pretty tight fit cause of the 140mm noiseblocker eLoop at the back.


----------



## NotReadyYet

How much of a temp drop could I expect going from a Corsair H70 Core with 2 Gentle Typhoon fans (push/pull), to a Corsair H100i GTX in pull only?


----------



## XMBBROOKSBY

I currently have a H110i GTX and my fans are dieing getting coil whine and vibrating more and more.
Can anyone suggest some good replacement fans, I'm wanting them to be slightly quieter than the stock ones i have if possible


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XMBBROOKSBY*
> 
> I currently have a H110i GTX and my fans are dieing getting coil whine and vibrating more and more.
> Can anyone suggest some good replacement fans, I'm wanting them to be slightly quieter than the stock ones i have if possible


Hello

If the led fans okay for you the corsair sp140 twin pack for 30$ will be the best for you ..


----------



## XMBBROOKSBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Hello
> 
> If the led fans okay for you the corsair sp140 twin pack for 30$ will be the best for you ..


Would you go with the normal or quiet edition fans??


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XMBBROOKSBY*
> 
> Would you go with the normal or quiet edition fans??


There is no Quiet or Performance edition for 140m fans.. that for 120m..

the 140m fans is 3pin (but work just fine ), while the 120m version have PWM (4pin) version that come as Quiet or Performance


----------



## XMBBROOKSBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> There is no Quiet or Performance edition for 140m fans.. that for 120m..
> 
> the 140m fans is 3pin (but work just fine ), while the 120m version have PWM (4pin) version that come as Quiet or Performance


Oops i just realized the rad takes 140mm fans. I thought they were just the same as my old h100i


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XMBBROOKSBY*
> 
> Oops i just realized the rad takes 140mm fans. I thought they were just the same as my old h100i


It pays to research the devices you're thinking about running....


----------



## XMBBROOKSBY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> It pays to research the devices you're thinking about running....


I'm already running the H110i GTX i just assumed they were 120 fans like my old 100i xD
Lucky i didnt buy any fans yet


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XMBBROOKSBY*
> 
> I'm already running the H110i GTX i just assumed they were 120 fans like my old 100i xD
> Lucky i didnt buy any fans yet


The H100's (H100i and H100i GTX) are 120mm, the 110's are 140mm. Good thing you caught it prior to ordering fans, otherwise you'd likely be ordering some 140 to 120mm adapters also.


----------



## bonami2

Do you realise that performance and quiet fan are the same thing.

Only the max rpm change.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonami2*
> 
> Do you realise that performance and quiet fan are the same thing.
> 
> Only the max rpm change.


Both static pressure fans, but honestly if you go with Performance one you will gain the color Ring only over the stock fans.. as both noisy fans..


----------



## bonami2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Both static pressure fans, but honestly if you go with Performance one you will gain the color Ring only over the stock fans.. as both noisy fans..


No idea why people says corsair fan are noisy.

my h110i gtx is currently cooling my fx 8300 at 4.4 1.4v 95% load

average 33c on [email protected] 7 core

Fan are at 1k rpm and pump at 1900 on quiet mode.

So it mostly idle cooling a behemoth

but the corsair link is really buggy and impossible to install almost. I got it with some tweak and at the end it buggued himself for no reason..

Well seem corsair and logitech software team is as bad as each other. At least corsair is making update


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonami2*
> 
> No idea why people says corsair fan are noisy.
> 
> my h110i gtx is currently cooling my fx 8300 at 4.4 1.4v 95% load
> 
> average 33c on [email protected] 7 core
> 
> Fan are at 1k rpm and pump at 1900 on quiet mode.
> 
> So it mostly idle cooling a behemoth
> 
> but the corsair link is really buggy and impossible to install almost. I got it with some tweak and at the end it buggued himself for no reason..
> 
> Well seem corsair and logitech software team is as bad as each other. At least corsair is making update


They noisy at full speed only, mine have H100i and 5820k @4.4ghz fan speed 500rpm idle and 900rpm load 50c max in games









corsair link work fine for me in win8.1 but on win 10 didn't try yet... as my fans connected to the board header


----------



## blaze2210

The Link software runs just fine, I've been using it on Windows 10 since the Technical Preview. Google for the newest version.

NOTE: I have not done any sort of registry tweaks, I just installed the Link software and it works.


----------



## bonami2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> The Link software runs just fine, I've been using it on Windows 10 since the Technical Preview. Google for the newest version.
> 
> NOTE: I have not done any sort of registry tweaks, I just installed the Link software and it works.


I have a brand new install of 10 pro 64bit.

The software was said to be unregistered needed to install uninstall install again uninstall again run it in windows 8 comp and admin and it installed.. Worked until reboot and now i need to save to a profile and close the program and open it again because i cant edit it on the fly.

I must say that it not the first crappy software that i use but normally i can get them to work.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

hey rep..sent ya pm..please check...


----------



## generalkayoss

Rocking two Corsair AIO coolers. H110 on the CPU, H60 on the GPU


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonami2*
> 
> I have a brand new install of 10 pro 64bit.
> 
> The software was said to be unregistered needed to install uninstall install again uninstall again run it in windows 8 comp and admin and it installed.. Worked until reboot and now i need to save to a profile and close the program and open it again because i cant edit it on the fly.
> 
> I must say that it not the first crappy software that i use but normally i can get them to work.


What version of Link are you running? Please note my emphasis on getting the _newest_ version of the Link software.

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=125350


----------



## Chaoz

Just upgraded from a H70 Core yesterday, as the pump broke, so I bought a H100i GTX.
With some modding i managed to get it in my midi case:


----------



## NotReadyYet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> Just upgraded from a H70 Core yesterdat, as the pump broke, so I bought a H100i GTX.
> With some modding i managed to get it in my midi case:


I'm about to go from an H70 to H100 as well. What were your temps from before and after?


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NotReadyYet*
> 
> I'm about to go from an H70 to H100 as well. What were your temps from before and after?


Well before with my defective H70 i got around 45-50°C in idle and ±70°C while playing Black Ops 3.

Now with the H100i GTX i got 30°C in idle and 45-50°C in-game. Which is quite a big difference.


----------



## bonami2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> What version of Link are you running? Please note my emphasis on getting the _newest_ version of the Link software.
> 
> http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=125350


The one the h110i gtx page gave me


----------



## Hexagram

Can I join? XD

I upgraded from my stock intel fan. I went for liquid cooling (H100i) for future cpu upgrade (current is 4790 non K), to reduce fan noise, and most air coolers wont fit in my mini ITX case. But i guess the noise part worsen.
Q> Did you guys changed your fans?


----------



## PerfectTekniq

I'm using 4 SP120's. I turned them down with Link and temps have always been good.


----------



## Mergatroid

Wrong post. Sorry.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> Just upgraded from a H70 Core yesterday, as the pump broke, so I bought a H100i GTX.
> With some modding i managed to get it in my midi case:


Nice job. Looks great.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Nice job. Looks great.


Thanks, was quite a mod i had to do, I don't know for sure it would fit, but it did so i'm happy.
Was thinking about maybe turning around my fans.


----------



## NotReadyYet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hexagram*
> 
> Can I join? XD
> 
> I upgraded from my stock intel fan. I went for liquid cooling (H100i) for future cpu upgrade (current is 4790 non K), to reduce fan noise, and most air coolers wont fit in my mini ITX case. But i guess the noise part worsen.
> Q> Did you guys changed your fans?


When I install my H100 I'm not going to use the stock fans. Instead I'll be using 120mm Scythe Gentle Typhoons.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NotReadyYet*
> 
> When I install my H100 I'm not going to use the stock fans. Instead I'll be using 120mm Scythe Gentle Typhoons.


I wanted to use those fans aswell, but i only have 2 and i wanted push/pull so i used 2 stock and 2 SP120Q PWM's.

But i'll be swap the stock fans at the end of the month. Seeing as they're €40 for a dual pack.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hexagram*
> 
> Can I join? XD
> 
> I upgraded from my stock intel fan. I went for liquid cooling (H100i) for future cpu upgrade (current is 4790 non K), to reduce fan noise, and most air coolers wont fit in my mini ITX case. But i guess the noise part worsen.
> Q> Did you guys changed your fans?


I'm using the stock fans, they're quiet if you set up a better fan curve, or select the Balanced profile in the Link software. I even bought 2 more of them off of eBay to run in push/pull.


----------



## NotReadyYet

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> I wanted to use those fans aswell, but i only have 2 and i wanted push/pull so i used 2 stock and 2 SP120Q PWM's.
> 
> But i'll be swap the stock fans at the end of the month. Seeing as they're €40 for a dual pack.


I'm gonna set mine up for pull. I figure I'd save dB over the 1-3 degree temps it give me.


----------



## Hexagram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NotReadyYet*
> 
> When I install my H100 I'm not going to use the stock fans. Instead I'll be using 120mm Scythe Gentle Typhoons.


But rpm is less right? I might change mine too if rpm wont be a problem
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I'm using the stock fans, they're quiet if you set up a better fan curve, or select the Balanced profile in the Link software. I even bought 2 more of them off of eBay to run in push/pull.


I've adjusted to Quite Mode but ain't that quite for me


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hexagram*
> 
> But rpm is less right? I might change mine too if rpm wont be a problem
> I've adjusted to Quite Mode but ain't that quite for me


I'm pretty sure that I suggested Balanced, or a custom fan curve - not Quiet mode....


----------



## Hexagram

Lol yeah my bad. I'll try that!


----------



## NotReadyYet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hexagram*
> 
> But rpm is less right? I might change mine too if rpm wont be a problem
> I've adjusted to Quite Mode but ain't that quite for me


I think its 1850 RPM, but they are quiet as hell and incredibly well balance. I've always used Gentle Typhoon fans on my rads. Google them, and you'll see many sing their high praises.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NotReadyYet*
> 
> I think its 1850 RPM, but they are quiet as hell and incredibly well balance. I've always used Gentle Typhoon fans on my rads. Google them, and you'll see many sing their high praises.


you got different ones, from 1150rpm til 1850rpm all depending on how loud you want them to be. The ones I bought are 1450rpm.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

@chaoz..how dd yo fit the gtx in the front???
Youll have easier install if you orient the pum itself so the tubes are at the rams side..puts less strain on them for reaching...
Looks great..
The stock fans incl arent that bad..run them at 35-50%speed and you cant really hear them


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> @chaoz..how dd yo fit the gtx in the front???
> Youll have easier install if you orient the pum itself so the tubes are at the rams side..puts less strain on them for reaching...
> Looks great..
> The stock fans incl arent that bad..run them at 35-50%speed and you cant really hear them


LOL Thx
Ikr, I had to do some modding.
I took out the HDD cage (since i switched over completely to SSD) and drilled out the brackets that was holding the cage.
Then I drilled 6 holes at the front of the case behind the front panel. Et voila perfect fit.

Euhm....which RAMs? got RAMs on 2 sides of the CPU







cuz it's X79 chipset.
Tried flipping the block around but the tubes are a bit too long, even now they're up against my window.

Yeah, indeed I'm starting to like them tbh, they don't make a lot of noise compared to what everyone says they do.
When I'm gaming I don't mind the noise. CPU stays under ±50°C and GPU under 70°C.


----------



## NotReadyYet

I posted this a couple of years ago, but figured it was still relevant and hopefully it helps some one out there deciding which fans to get.

"As a fan fanatic, I have tested over 30 different types of fans in my rig. It cost a lot of time and money, but was worth it since I didn't want a custom water cooled setup. Besides, I love the idea of cutting off every little degree of heat from my case.

All of my tests were performed under the same circumstances; the temperature of my room was set to a constant 72F, when the test was finished, I shut my rig down and left, allowing the room to cool off since running Prime95 would throw off my results. This was measured using a thermal thermometer. Nothing else was on or drawing electricity in my room.

*Test Bench*

Case: Antec Lanboy Air
CPU: Intel i7 2600k @ stock speed/volts
Memory: Mushkin Redline PC17000 4x4GB
GPU: MSI Radeon 6850 Power Edition
Mobo: ASRock Z68 Pro Gen3 Fatal1ty
Cooling: Corsair H70 (push/pull)
Thermal Paste: Tuniq TX-3 Extreme 
PSU: Seasonic 750x Gold
SSD: Crucial M4
OS: Windows 7 Pro 64

*Test Conditions*

The computer was set on a table in the middle of my 15ft x 15ft room, it was then booted up and allowed to sit for 10 minutes before I measure the temperature using RealTemp. Then, I ran Prime95 for 10 minutes and pulled the temperatures from RealTemp. I added up all the core temperatures and averaged them to get the temperatures in my results below. I did not measure acoustic levels since I wear noise isolating headphones while using my rig.

Here are just some of my results:

*Gelid Solutions 120 x 25 Gamer Wing Fan*

Max RPMs: 1800
CPU (idle): 22C
CPU (load): 50C

*Scythe "GentleTyphoon" 120 x 25 Silent Case Fan*

Max RPMs: 1800
CPU (idle): 24C
CPU (load) 52C

*Panaflow 120 x 38 Ultra High speed Fan*

Max RPMs: 2750
CPU (idle): 17C
CPU (load): 45C

*Corsair Air Series 120 x 25 "SP" Fan*

Max RPMs: 2350
CPU (idle): 23C
CPU (load): 52C

*Antec "Tricool" 120 x 25 Fan*

Max RPMs: 2000
CPU (idle): 22C
CPU (load): 51C

*Scythe "ULTRA KAZE" 120 x 38 Fan*

Max RPMs: 3000
CPU (idle): 17C
CPU (load): 45C

*Cougar Vortex 120 x 25 Fan*

Max RPMs: 1500
CPU (idle): 23C
CPU (load): 51C


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NotReadyYet*
> 
> I posted this a couple of years ago, but figured it was still relevant and hopefully it helps some one out there deciding which fans to get.
> 
> "As a fan fanatic, I have tested over 30 different types of fans in my rig. It cost a lot of time and money, but was worth it since I didn't want a custom water cooled setup. Besides, I love the idea of cutting off every little degree of heat from my case.
> 
> All of my tests were performed under the same circumstances; the temperature of my room was set to a constant 72F, when the test was finished, I shut my rig down and left, allowing the room to cool off since running Prime95 would throw off my results. This was measured using a thermal thermometer. Nothing else was on or drawing electricity in my room.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *Test Bench*
> Case: Antec Lanboy Air
> 
> CPU: Intel i7 2600k @ stock speed/volts
> 
> Memory: Mushkin Redline PC17000 4x4GB
> 
> GPU: MSI Radeon 6850 Power Edition
> 
> Mobo: ASRock Z68 Pro Gen3 Fatal1ty
> 
> Cooling: Corsair H70 (push/pull)
> 
> Thermal Paste: Tuniq TX-3 Extreme
> 
> PSU: Seasonic 750x Gold
> 
> SSD: Crucial M4
> 
> OS: Windows 7 Pro 64
> 
> *Test Conditions*
> The computer was set on a table in the middle of my 15ft x 15ft room, it was then booted up and allowed to sit for 10 minutes before I measure the temperature using RealTemp. Then, I ran Prime95 for 10 minutes and pulled the temperatures from RealTemp. I added up all the core temperatures and averaged them to get the temperatures in my results below. I did not measure acoustic levels since I wear noise isolating headphones while using my rig.
> 
> Here are just some of my results:
> 
> *Gelid Solutions 120 x 25 Gamer Wing Fan*
> Max RPMs: 1800
> 
> CPU (idle): 22C
> 
> CPU (load): 50C
> 
> *Scythe "GentleTyphoon" 120 x 25 Silent Case Fan*
> Max RPMs: 1800
> 
> CPU (idle): 24C
> 
> CPU (load) 52C
> 
> *Panaflow 120 x 38 Ultra High speed Fan*
> Max RPMs: 2750
> 
> CPU (idle): 17C
> 
> CPU (load): 45C
> 
> *Corsair Air Series 120 x 25 "SP" Fan*
> Max RPMs: 2350
> 
> CPU (idle): 23C
> 
> CPU (load): 52C
> 
> *Antec "Tricool" 120 x 25 Fan*
> Max RPMs: 2000
> 
> CPU (idle): 22C
> 
> CPU (load): 51C
> 
> *Scythe "ULTRA KAZE" 120 x 38 Fan*
> Max RPMs: 3000
> 
> CPU (idle): 17C
> 
> CPU (load): 45C
> 
> *Cougar Vortex 120 x 25 Fan*
> Max RPMs: 1500
> 
> CPU (idle): 23C
> 
> CPU (load): 51C


Huh, I'm surprised that the cougars do so well, I have a couple on my H75 but they don't seem to do nearly as well as my D12SM-12's (Which aren't much louder).


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

H100 in a Fractal MIDI case cooling I7 6700k, MSI M7 board. One of the only H100s I've seen in a Fractal Arc MIDI case. Not easy, but doable. New case in the works, just cant figure out what the final product will look like. A case builder needs to ask for consumer input on what they are looking for in a good case.


----------



## roberta507

Here's a link shot of my setup not the same case


----------



## Bonjovi

Hello Guys this is H110 Extreme perfromance

what you think with it? im gonna buy it and is it recomended to mod long tubing ?

because as i know when water going hot its going expanding. and this coolers dont have reservoir as i know and its maybe makes a problem? when you cut it and mode it?


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> Hello Guys this is H110 Extreme perfromance
> 
> what you think with it? im gonna buy it and is it recomended to mod long tubing ?
> 
> because as i know when water going hot its going expanding. and this coolers dont have reservoir as i know and its maybe makes a problem? when you cut it and mode it?


If you want to Mode any AIO, the biggest problem is the Air Bubbles.. you need reservoir to let the Air Bubbles out from the loop...

go with H110I GT or H110I GTX as both have super long tube and no need to Mode anything


----------



## Bonjovi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> If you want to Mode any AIO, the biggest problem is the Air Bubbles.. you need reservoir to let the Air Bubbles out from the loop...
> 
> go with H110I GT or H110I GTX as both have super long tube and no need to Mode anything


yea air bubbles right but he tolled me ( he have i7 3770k 4.2ghz and its have maximum 66c on stress test intel burn.) i mean im not gonna buy it on ebay hes near to me.

just im scare about expanding water. i have i7 4790k . and expensive system. and i dont want when water going to high temperature made a problem with expanding and tubing drop the water .

what you think ppl?


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonjovi*
> 
> yea air bubbles right but he tolled me ( he have i7 3770k 4.2ghz and its have maximum 66c on stress test intel burn.) i mean im not gonna buy it on ebay hes near to me.
> 
> just im scare about expanding water. i have i7 4790k . and expensive system. and i dont want when water going to high temperature made a problem with expanding and tubing drop the water .
> 
> what you think ppl?


If you don't trust it, don't buy it. SIMPLE.

A lot of people have custom loops that probably use the same tubes. They won't expand.

It's also not exactly water it's coolant like in a car.

As i said, don't trust it don't buy it.

I would never buy a second hand watercooling especially a modded Hydro cooler. (Unless it's a custom loops of someone you know and who takes care of it.)


----------



## kizwan

My typical ambient is in 30s Celsius & when under load water temp can easily go up to 40s Celsius. So far we have no issue with tube exploding because of water expanding.


----------



## ScottFern

I just ordered a Fractal Design S case and since its main advantage is mounting water cooling setups I was hoping to get a Corsair Hydro cooler for my i7 4770k and my r9 290 gpu.

I am trying to determine the best Corsair hydro coolers to purchase for both my gpu and cpu. Since I don't have the case or the coolers in front of me I am finding it hard to determine where I should mount the radiators and what is the appropriate size?

Any advice is helpful. Thanks!


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScottFern*
> 
> I just ordered a Fractal Design S case and since its main advantage is mounting water cooling setups I was hoping to get a Corsair Hydro cooler for my i7 4770k and my r9 290 gpu.
> 
> I am trying to determine the best Corsair hydro coolers to purchase for both my gpu and cpu. Since I don't have the case or the coolers in front of me I am finding it hard to determine where I should mount the radiators and what is the appropriate size?
> 
> Any advice is helpful. Thanks!


There are loads of possibilities for your case.

What I would recommend is getting a H110i GTX (280mm rad) for you CPU. And a H80i GT (140 mm rad) for your GPU.

What you could do is mount the H110i GTX for the CPU at the top for exhaust and for the GPU mount the H80i GT at the back also for exhaust (tubing is around 12 inches long, so plenty of tubing to mount it anywhere you like.).
Or get the same H110i GTX for CPU cooler and mount it at the front for intake and buy 3x 140 mm fans (Corsair AF series or Noctua NF-A14 Industrials) for in top panel to pull out all the hot air.

Hope you understand.


----------



## MR-e

Hi guys,

I have a question regarding a Corsair H80i GT. With the provided Corsair Link software, I've read that you can control the Pump and Fan speed with profiles. My question is, will Corsair Link be able to modulate the pump/fan speed automatically based on a custom profile? I don't want to have to go into Link every time to change from quiet to performance modes. Also, if I replace the fan, do I need to get PWM fans for Link? Or can I use regular DC fans.

Ideally, I'd like to do away with Corsair Link altogether! Is it possible to control the pump & fan speeds with the BIOS?

Thank you!


----------



## X-PREDATOR

yes you can use it without link:
1 just run pump power straight from psu via an adapter..
2 : use a pwm hub or splitter from the pwm cpu fan on mobo to control fans via bios...works like a charm...take a look at some 8way splitters even..like the phobya or other decent ones..then you can run the entire systems fans from pwm hub and power from psu...


----------



## Mr-Dark

Finally corsair upgrade the H105.. now the H115i ready for sale an thick 280m rad + the link is awesome



the H110I GT on the sale now 105$ instead of 134$


----------



## VSG

According to Newegg, the rad is still 26mm thick? Without a product page on Corsair's website, it's hard to say for sure but even the pics on the Newegg page suggest it is pretty much analogous to the H110i GT/GTX.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> According to Newegg, the rad is still 26mm thick? Without a product page on Corsair's website, it's hard to say for sure but even the pics on the Newegg page suggest it is pretty much analogous to the H110i GT/GTX.


We need to wait for corsair page for sure as nothing 100% accurate now.. but from the picture its thicker than H110i GT/X


----------



## VSG

Hate to disappoint you but no, that's pretty much a H110i GTX. I knew there was going to be a rebranding done for the coolers so as to remove naming scheme confusion, so this is probably just a rebranded H110i GTX with slightly less confusing name (and swappable inserts finally).


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Hate to disappoint you but no, that's pretty much a H110i GTX. I knew there was going to be a rebranding done for the coolers so as to remove naming scheme confusion, so this is probably just a rebranded H110i GTX with slightly less confusing name (and swappable inserts finally).


So this to replace the H110I GT/GTX ? but if this based on normal rad then what is the point from that ?

the H1X5 should be thicker and don't support link right ?


----------



## NotReadyYet

Does the H70 backplate work with the H100i GTX?

I ask because I i recently transferred everything to a new rig. Before, with my H70 core, I was getting 18-27C on idle (push/pull). Now, I'm getting 23-35C on idle, and there are times where it shoots up to 42C (very briefly). Otherwise, temps always float around in the 20's. I feel like I should be getting better temps on my H100i GTX (pull only), compared to my H70. What gives?


----------



## CTV

Hey guys, could you kindly look at another thread I started with concerns around the H100i GTX in general and advise what your thoughts are? http://www.overclock.net/t/1588756/h100i-gtx-radiator-orientation-in-graphite-760t

Thanks


----------



## CorsairGeorge

The H115i is the H110i GTX renamed.

We had some people say that the GT/GTX thing was confusing so we renamed the product line a bit to simplify:

H80i GT -> H80i V2
H100i GTX -> H100i V2
H110i GT -> H110i
H110i GTX -> H115i

The only significant change on the H115i is that the spacing of the fans is back to 15mm per our standard.


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NotReadyYet*
> 
> Does the H70 backplate work with the H100i GTX?
> 
> I ask because I i recently transferred everything to a new rig. Before, with my H70 core, I was getting 18-27C on idle (push/pull). Now, I'm getting 23-35C on idle, and there are times where it shoots up to 42C (very briefly). Otherwise, temps always float around in the 20's. I feel like I should be getting better temps on my H100i GTX (pull only), compared to my H70. What gives?


The backplate is very similar depending on what version of the H70 you had. The other question is the fans, though. The H70 didn't have the same fan control mechanism that the H100i GTX does. The H100i GTX is much more silence-focused for low loads so the fans spin very slowly/quietly at low loads which increases idle temps slightly but makes the general web browsing/email experience a lot less noisy. It does have a much better top end.

I don't know what fans you're using though, assuming you're using the included fans and the built-in fan controller.


----------



## ScottFern

Is it reasonable to run a H110i GT on my CPU and a H75/80i GT on my GPU (r9 290) in the same case. I am going to be using a Fractal Design S case but I am more concerned with having enough USB headers, PWM connectors, and will the Corsair Link software recognize 2 units in on the same motherboard?


----------



## NotReadyYet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> The backplate is very similar depending on what version of the H70 you had. The other question is the fans, though. The H70 didn't have the same fan control mechanism that the H100i GTX does. The H100i GTX is much more silence-focused for low loads so the fans spin very slowly/quietly at low loads which increases idle temps slightly but makes the general web browsing/email experience a lot less noisy. It does have a much better top end.
> 
> I don't know what fans you're using though, assuming you're using the included fans and the built-in fan controller.


Thanks for the reply. I had the H70 Core, not sure if that answers your first question. Additionally, I'm using two Scythe Gentle Typhoons (1850rpm) in pull. These fans and the pump itself are plugged into 12v power cables which are wired into my PSU (molex).

Here is a photo of my temps after browsing the web for a few hours. Ambient room temp is 73F. I really feel like these are way too high considering this cooler is a lot better than my previous cooler. FWIW, Corsair link shows me my pump is running at max flow. I doubt it could also be a seating issue since the block is flush, not loose, and pressing down on it while running Prime95 doesn't do anything for my temps. As far as I can tell its on there right.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScottFern*
> 
> Is it reasonable to run a H110i GT on my CPU and a H75/80i GT on my GPU (r9 290) in the same case. I am going to be using a Fractal Design S case but I am more concerned with having enough USB headers, PWM connectors, and will the Corsair Link software recognize 2 units in on the same motherboard?


Most newer mobo's have a lot of 4-pin fan connectors.

My P9X79 only has 4-pin connectors.
Also nowadays those same mobo's also have atleast 2-3 USB headers, some times even more depending on what brand and chipset they are.


----------



## lilvipr05

I have a question about the wiring of the pump and the fans on a Corsair H100i GTX...

I was wondering if I had to plug the 3 pin connector into the CPU_Fan header on the MB or if I was to use a PWM fan hub if I could plug the 3 pin into the PWM fan hubs header labled as CPU_Fan and still maintain control. I would of course plug the fans into the 4 pin plugs coming off the pump head. My MB only has one CPU_Fan header.

My Mother board is an MSI A88XM Gaming MicroATX

Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilvipr05*
> 
> I have a question about the wiring of the pump and the fans on a Corsair H100i GTX...
> 
> I was wondering if I had to plug the 3 pin connector into the CPU_Fan header on the MB or if I was to use a PWM fan hub if I could plug the 3 pin into the PWM fan hubs header labled as CPU_Fan and still maintain control. I would of course plug the fans into the 4 pin plugs coming off the pump head. My MB only has one CPU_Fan header.
> 
> My Mother board is an MSI A88XM Gaming MicroATX
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.


The header on the pump of the H100i GTX is a 4-pin pwm header with 2x 4-pin for fans.

As for your other question, if you use the corsair Link, you can.


----------



## lilvipr05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> The header on the pump of the H100i GTX is a 4-pin pwm header with 2x 4-pin for fans.
> 
> As for your other question, if you use the corsair Link, you can.


The one I have has a 3 pin connector and then 2 4 pin connections for the fans.


----------



## lilvipr05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilvipr05*
> 
> The one I have has a 3 pin connector and then 2 4 pin connections for the fans.


I got it all figured out.
I plugged the 3 pin into the CPU_Fan header like the instructions say and I used one of the SYS_Fan headers to power the fan hub and control all of the case fans via bios.


----------



## dboythagr8

nvm


----------



## deathroll

Hello everyone. I have bought an H110i GTX. I'm using the fans on quiet mode. I didn't realised any drastic temperature difference between fan profiles. Anyway. I leave Corsair Link runs at Windows startup. While Corsair Link initialized at Windows startup, my fans ramp up to max speed momentarily. Is there any way to prevent this? It becomes annoying and scary when it is unexpected.

Edit: Uptading Corsair Link to latest v4 fixed the issue.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Run your pump from psu only..for max power..
Fans from motherboard cpu fan heade/s and set you fan-temp ratios in bios...
Its alot less hassles..
I.like the link tool..dont get me wrong..but more than.often..old school is the new school solution


----------



## deathroll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> Run your pump from psu only..for max power..
> Fans from motherboard cpu fan heade/s and set you fan-temp ratios in bios...
> Its alot less hassles..
> I.like the link tool..dont get me wrong..but more than.often..old school is the new school solution


Woops sorry, I was talking about H110i GTX. I had forgotten to write GTX








I just want to keep it quiet.


----------



## TheADLA

Hi all. I just bought it last week and put it in







H110i GTX
No Corsair Link due to lack of second USB 2.0 Header. Pump connected direclty to PSU, Fans connected to 4-pin CPU 1 and CPU 2 connection on the mainboard and fan curve set in Bios. Works like a Charme







and keeps my 4790K @4.7 Ghz nice and cool









I didn't check but I believe the form here to enter the club runs over google which unfortunately is blocked here


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheADLA*
> 
> Hi all. I just bought it last week and put it in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> H110i GTX
> No Corsair Link due to lack of second USB 2.0 Header. Pump connected direclty to PSU, Fans connected to 4-pin CPU 1 and CPU 2 connection on the mainboard and fan curve set in Bios. Works like a Charme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and keeps my 4790K @4.7 Ghz nice and cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't check but I believe the form here to enter the club runs over google which unfortunately is blocked here


Hi, congrats for your purchase! From what I understand the pump of your H110i GTX is running at full speed, all the time. Is it noisy?

Thank you


----------



## TheADLA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hi, congrats for your purchase! From what I understand the pump of your H110i GTX is running at full speed, all the time. Is it noisy?
> 
> Thank you


Hi,

no. I don't hear it at all. The fans are quiet as well. I set the fan curve in the Bios very balanced before the fans go hard (then of course they are noisy as hell)
But due to the max flow of the pump, at gaming, my CPU never reaches those temps, therefore the fans remain silent as well.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheADLA*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> no. I don't hear it at all. The fans are quiet as well. I set the fan curve in the Bios very balanced before the fans go hard (then of course they are noisy as hell)
> But due to the max flow of the pump, at gaming, my CPU never reaches those temps, therefore the fans remain silent as well.


Okay, good to hear, thank you! The reason I asked is because I use the H110 and its pump, which is always running at full speed as it is supposed to, is completely inaudible in my system. This means that even if I will approach my ear close to it, in an open air setup, and concentrate on hearing something, I am not able to hear anything coming from the pump. Great to hear it is the same with the pump of the H110i GTX.

Thank you.


----------



## deathroll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheADLA*
> 
> Hi all. I just bought it last week and put it in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> H110i GTX
> No Corsair Link due to lack of second USB 2.0 Header. Pump connected direclty to PSU, Fans connected to 4-pin CPU 1 and CPU 2 connection on the mainboard and fan curve set in Bios. Works like a Charme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and keeps my 4790K @4.7 Ghz nice and cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't check but I believe the form here to enter the club runs over google which unfortunately is blocked here


I assume you had to remove ODD cage and all ModuVents. True?


----------



## TheADLA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathroll*
> 
> I assume you had to remove ODD cage and all ModuVents. True?


Hi,

yep, had to. But that was no problem. I don't use a DVD drive anymore for a long time. So it fits perfectly. Couldn't put it in the top back because it interfered with my Noctua back fan. My top covers are made of 3 parts so I just had to remove the 2 front ones. The one in the back is still on . The Fractal Design R5 is a pretty decent case. You can pretty much throw any cooling solution at it.


----------



## bonami2

Hey their is a version 4.2 with new ui

Seem to work now for me il report back. the 3.2 version was buggued like mad.


----------



## Spartoi

I'm planning on getting a H110i GT and was going to replace the stock fans with 2x Phanteks PH-F140SP fans that I have. I was wondering if I should completely replace the Corsair fans or run them in a push/pull setup? Is the H110i GT radiator thick enough to require a push/pull setup or will my two PH-F140SP fans be enough?


----------



## Associated

Hello!

So... after a month of using H100i GTX I am slowly learning that stock Corsair fans are too loud, so I have some questions related to changing the fans...
Whats the wattage limit for the fans pluged into cooler?
Does cooler get all of the power just from one 3pin motherboard connector, or does it get some from USB 2.0 (CLink) too?
What fans would you recommend, higher RPM/Air flow if needed for benching... I am looking at EK-Furious Vardar (3000rpm, 5.64W), but I am not sure if it would work at 100% fan speed (too much power draw?)


----------



## X-PREDATOR

those are good chioce of fans.......the pump gets power from psu ,,the 3pn header is for rpm monitoring...


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Associated*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> So... after a month of using H100i GTX I am slowly learning that stock Corsair fans are too loud, so I have some questions related to changing the fans...
> Whats the wattage limit for the fans pluged into cooler?
> Does cooler get all of the power just from one 3pin motherboard connector, or does it get some from USB 2.0 (CLink) too?
> What fans would you recommend, higher RPM/Air flow if needed for benching... I am looking at EK-Furious Vardar (3000rpm, 5.64W), but I am not sure if it would work at 100% fan speed (too much power draw?)


I'm using the exact same cooler and used the stock fans for a couple of weeks but they were too loud, imho.
So now I'm using Corsair SP120Q PWM in Push/Pull config and I love them, not too loud.


----------



## Associated

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> those are good chioce of fans.......the pump gets power from psu ,,the 3pn header is for rpm monitoring...


PSU? Well everything is getting power from PSU







, but cooler is not directly connected to the PSU its either 3pin or the USB 2.0... that is what I want to know...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> I'm using the exact same cooler and used the stock fans for a couple of weeks but they were too loud, imho.
> So now I'm using Corsair SP120Q PWM in Push/Pull config and I love them, not too loud.


How do you have fans connected?


----------



## deathroll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheADLA*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> yep, had to. But that was no problem. I don't use a DVD drive anymore for a long time. So it fits perfectly. Couldn't put it in the top back because it interfered with my Noctua back fan. My top covers are made of 3 parts so I just had to remove the 2 front ones. The one in the back is still on . The Fractal Design R5 is a pretty decent case. You can pretty much throw any cooling solution at it.


Glad to you made it conveniently.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Associated*
> 
> How do you have fans connected?


I'm using 2x 4-pin y-splitters (for front and back) to connect it to my 2x 4-pin CPU block cable (to pump and...).


----------



## ScottFern

So I am at a cross roads with my re-build of my gaming rig. I have a new Fractal Design S case and a Corsair H110i GT cooler mounted to the top of the case to cool my CPU and I recently bought a H60 / HG10 A1 to cool my GPU (r9 290) but I unfortunately found out the tubing of the H60 is not long enough to mount it to the front of the case as I intended and still mount to the GPU.

I don't know whether going with a H75/80/90 will provide a longer tubing, but I am debating just scraping the idea of watercooling my 290 card. Ugh.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScottFern*
> 
> So I am at a cross roads with my re-build of my gaming rig. I have a new Fractal Design S case and a Corsair H110i GT cooler mounted to the top of the case to cool my CPU and I recently bought a H60 / HG10 A1 to cool my GPU (r9 290) but I unfortunately found out the tubing of the H60 is not long enough to mount it to the front of the case as I intended and still mount to the GPU.
> 
> I don't know whether going with a H75/80/90 will provide a longer tubing, but I am debating just scraping the idea of watercooling my 290 card. Ugh.


The H80i GT does have 11,5 inches of tubing so they will be long enough to reach. I myself got a H100i GTX, same versie only 240 rad instead of 120 rad.
I mounted it at the front of my case and it reaches perfectly to my cpu, even have a bit too much tubing.


----------



## philhalo66

Has anyone ever had their LED's turn slightly yellow? I just noticed that even if i manually try and set it to white its slightly yellow. but all 3 colors work fine by themselves.


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> Has anyone ever had their LED's turn slightly yellow? I just noticed that even if i manually try and set it to white its slightly yellow. but all 3 colors work fine by themselves.


I know that my H80i LED is pretty much gone. White is now Rose Pink and Red, Green and Blue are totally different.
I did originally have some issues after a while with white being mostly a pinky colour. Shutting the LED on and off worked best.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> I know that my H80i LED is pretty much gone. White is now Rose Pink and Red, Green and Blue are totally different.
> I did originally have some issues after a while with white being mostly a pinky colour. Shutting the LED on and off worked best.


Im kinda disappointed i only had it a little over a year


----------



## VSG

Some of my results with the H5 SF:



















Full review upcoming (not here) but fair to say that there's really no point slowing the pump down here- keeping it at a fixed 12V makes most sense since the blower fan is always going to be louder than it and you would like to have the flow rate as high as possible.


----------



## CTV

Hey guys

I am thinking of replacing my H100i GTX's stock fans with aftermarket LED fans.

I know what there have been reports that the earlier H00i (non-GTX) would fail if for an example Cooler Master LED PWM Jetflo's were connected to the fan controller integrated into the pump.

Do any of you know if this has at all changed with the GTX? Furthermore, does anyone know what the official max load support is for the pump's fan controller? I have read that the non-GTX supports 2 amps per fan header (4 amps in total). Has this at all changed with the GTX, especially since it only supports 2 fans max (no Y-splitter and all)? I also know the OEM for the GTX has changed so there is the possibility that LED Jetflo's may actually work without frying the unit.

I know a lot of people will advise to use run fans directly of motherboard headers, dedicated fan controllers or directly from the PSU but this is not what I am asking so please try and stick to the questions I posed


----------



## X-PREDATOR

I know what there have been reports that the earlier H00i (non-GTX) would fail if for an example Cooler Master LED PWM Jetflo's were connected to the fan controller integrated into the pump

this was due to the fact those fans draw more power than what the unit is designed for:thumb:

as for your fan replacing concern...as long as the fan itself isnt rated higher than 0,35amps @ 12v then it should be ok
but your correct about what most suggest..id say look at
http://www.amazon.com/Phobya-4-Pin-Splitter-Power-Eight/dp/B00OD7MO6E

it much more eligent this way..no pun intended to the link software but theres still alot of issues being reported often with it


----------



## Scrimstar

Which hydro is the best without being loud? and what fan should I get with it? Don't really mind ~3 * C hotter if its noticeably quieter

and any of these should take a 5820k to 4.5GHz right?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> Which hydro is the best without being loud? and what fan should I get with it? Don't really mind ~3 * C hotter if its noticeably quieter
> 
> and any of these should take a 5820k to 4.5GHz right?


H110GT:thumb:


----------



## la4ours

So i have an H80i that has been sitting in my closet going on 2 years now. I initially installed it into a amd apu system that i built for my parents to just test and removed it. Put it into my 17 4770k system and took it out once more and the mounting holes on the radiator are basically gone. Can I use zip ties to mount the radiator to the case, or would the radiator get too hot and melt them? I'm actually pretty disappointed in the quality of this unit as it is made by corsair, but I don't want to give up on the clc just yet.

Currently i'm using a Noc on the chip now, but i want to remount a new cooler and get my clock higher as I'm currently just sitting at 4.0


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *la4ours*
> 
> So i have an H80i that has been sitting in my closet going on 2 years now. I initially installed it into a amd apu system that i built for my parents to just test and removed it. Put it into my 17 4770k system and took it out once more and the mounting holes on the radiator are basically gone. Can I use zip ties to mount the radiator to the case, or would the radiator get too hot and melt them? I'm actually pretty disappointed in the quality of this unit as it is made by corsair, but I don't want to give up on the clc just yet.
> 
> Currently i'm using a Noc on the chip now, but i want to remount a new cooler and get my clock higher as I'm currently just sitting at 4.0


Mounting it with zip ties would be fine. There's no way that radiator could melt plastic like that. The screw holes on my H80i are pretty bad too.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *la4ours*
> 
> So i have an H80i that has been sitting in my closet going on 2 years now. I initially installed it into a amd apu system that i built for my parents to just test and removed it. Put it into my 17 4770k system and took it out once more and the mounting holes on the radiator are basically gone. Can I use zip ties to mount the radiator to the case, or would the radiator get too hot and melt them? I'm actually pretty disappointed in the quality of this unit as it is made by corsair, but I don't want to give up on the clc just yet.
> 
> Currently i'm using a Noc on the chip now, but i want to remount a new cooler and get my clock higher as I'm currently just sitting at 4.0


Just return it to Corsair. The warranty on the Hydro cooler is 5 years.
I recently had a defective pump on my H70 Core and was still in warranty and replaced it without any trouble with a H75.


----------



## Scrimstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> H110GT:thumb:


Do you mean H100i GT? And are aftermarket fans easy to install? And why is it less popular than the H105/110
And how does this compare to the Noctua D15?

dont get why there are two H100i GTX
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181094
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181090


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> Do you mean H100i GT? And are aftermarket fans easy to install? And why is it less popular than the H105/110
> And how does this compare to the Noctua D15?
> 
> dont get why there are two H100i GTX
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181094
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181090


the newegg links you posted are 2 different cooler.
The H100i GTX is a 240mm rad and the H110i GTX is a 280mm rad.


----------



## Scrimstar

so the 100 is more popular bc it has 120 fans which are easier to find?


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> so the 100 is more popular bc it has 120 fans which are easier to find?


Depends on what case you have. If you have the room to fit a 280mm rad you could.
I got a H100i GTX with 4 Corsair SP120Q PWM in push/pull. I love them, wouldn't want any other fan.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

h110I gtx 280mm...aftermarket fans
Noctua 140 ppc versions....


----------



## shamoke

I'm on the fence about buying one of these bad boys, mostly because I'm ultra-hyper-mega paranoid about drowning my rig. I'll probably be fine, but has anyone had any bad experiences with one of these? Not necessarily disastrous, but more annoyances or disappointments.

In short: help me ease my worry!


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shamoke*
> 
> I'm on the fence about buying one of these bad boys, mostly because I'm ultra-hyper-mega paranoid about drowning my rig. I'll probably be fine, but has anyone had any bad experiences with one of these? Not necessarily disastrous, but more annoyances or disappointments.
> 
> In short: help me ease my worry!


I have an H110 on my cpu and an H75 on my gpu and they've been great, no problems at all. My Alphacool Eisberg on the other hand decided to leak all over the place while the system was running yesterday, everything still works fine now though. Not using that thing ever again.


----------



## la4ours

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> Just return it to Corsair. The warranty on the Hydro cooler is 5 years.
> I recently had a defective pump on my H70 Core and was still in warranty and replaced it without any trouble with a H75.


I did not know this. I'll definitely do an RMA for this. Thx! Did you go directly through corsair or your vendor you bought it from?


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *la4ours*
> 
> I did not know this. I'll definitely do an RMA for this. Thx! Did you go directly through corsair or your vendor you bought it from?


The vendor i bought it from only gave 2 years. The rest of the warranty is directly from Corsair itself.

https://corsair.secure.force.com/home/home.jsp

Sign up on the link above and make a request through a ticket to Corsair and fill out the form. After a couple of days I received a RMA label to return to Corsair.
After a week or so I received mail that my product has been replaced and is on it's way back to me.

The service from Corsair is absolutely the best and the fastest.


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

guys, i have a problem. bought this H100i for cheap. hate the stupid wiring with two harnesses. my plan was to rewire V+ and GND to ATX connectors direct from the PSU and just let the pump run wide open all the time. well, sometime between when i opened it up and actually went to desolder the stock wires, i found that two of the pads have ripped off. the ground pad remains. can anyone help me identify a point that i can solder to? just need to find V+ thinking maybe the nearby C16... but the circuit may be broken without the pad



should i just junk this and buy another one? they're fairly cheap, and i need to finish this project in the next few days... this is a disaster. please help


----------



## X-PREDATOR

you couldve just connected the sata power directly to psu in the first place ..it runs OK and at 100% then....im no circuit guru im afriad..contact corsair rep Joseph here on the OCN..they can maybe hook you up with schematics....

or get another pump block and mod the unit...like use an eisberg or raijintek block..ive heard good things about them:thumb:


----------



## navjack27

WHY does the corsair link software constantly ping the hard drive? its always using a TINY bit of cpu which i guess i understand but i'm not even logging things with it and it is always hdd access.


----------



## shamoke

So, Newegg has a flash sale for The h100 for about 60 (refurbished). Should I bite? Is getting a refurbished one okay? A point was brought up that a refurbished one could potentially be more reliable since it's had to go through rigorous testing, therefore could be less likely to break than a new one.

Kind of outlandish, I know, but would love some thoughts before I pull the trigger.


----------



## Mergatroid

As a service tech, I tend to avoid refurbished products except for computers. However a few people over the years have purchased Corsair refurbs and reported here that they worked fine. I think it's a pretty good deal for $60.


----------



## zednor

Hello guys.I have a 5820k,Msi x99 Mpower board and an Enthoo pro case...So in case of reliability what should i buy the h110i GT or the Gtx?Gtx is 20 euros more expensive.What should i buy?I am targeting at 4ghz and 1,12v.Would i be able to get away with an h100i maybe?Also anyone knows if i mount the fans inside the case as exhaust if i will have any problem fitting the cpu power cable because it will be near the fans?Thanks


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> As a service tech, I tend to avoid refurbished products except for computers. However a few people over the years have purchased Corsair refurbs and reported here that they worked fine. I think it's a pretty good deal for $60.


The main issue I have with refurbs is the 30 day warrany for some of them, if not all.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zednor*
> 
> Hello guys.I have a 5820k,Msi x99 Mpower board and an Enthoo pro case...So in case of reliability what should i buy the h110i GT or the Gtx?Gtx is 20 euros more expensive.What should i buy?I am targeting at 4ghz and 1,12v.Would i be able to get away with an h100i maybe?Also anyone knows if i mount the fans inside the case as exhaust if i will have any problem fitting the cpu power cable because it will be near the fans?Thanks


I got the H100i GTX to cool my i7 3820 @4,1 GHz and it almost never goes over 50°C, got the SP120Q PWM in Push/pull setup blowing to the outside.
For images check my sig.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The main issue I have with refurbs is the 30 day warrany for some of them, if not all.


I agree. I feel that, if a manufacturer refurbs their products for resale, they should stand behind them with same warranty as a new product. I feel that, if they are unwilling to do this, they are admitting that do not have confidence the refurbished unit will last as long as a new unit.
I seem to recall the Corsair rep stating the returns have the same warranty as new and it was just the store (New egg in this particular case) that was stating incorrect information. I would suggest contacting Corsair for clarification before purchasing. The one thing that stands out about Corsair coolers is the warranty and without that I'm not sure I would purchase their coolers over any other brand.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Just for clarification, Corsair refurb cooler does have a 1 year warranty from us. Matter of fact, the refurb 1 year warranty policy is applicable across all our product category. So if you purchased a refurb Corsair product, we got you covered for 1 year, there's no need to contact your reseller after their return policy period.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Just for clarification, Corsair refurb cooler does have a 1 year warranty from us. Matter of fact, the refurb 1 year warranty policy is applicable across all our product category. So if you purchased a refurb Corsair product, we got you covered for 1 year, there's no need to contact your reseller after their return policy period.


For some reason George (Lampard) mentioned 30 days on a PCMR thread on reddit, and that stuck in my head. Thanks for the clarification.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> For some reason George (Lampard) mentioned 30 days on a PCMR thread on reddit, and that stuck in my head. Thanks for the clarification.


No problem man.. Thanks for the heads up, I''l get in touch with George (Lampard) and make sure that we'e on the same page on this


----------



## VSG

Make sure to refer him as George (Lampard) henceforth please


----------



## Darkstalker420

Hi people i figured this being the Corsair Hydro thread it's the best place to ask for help. My sig rig has been chugging along since 2010 with parts being upgraded as £'s permit. She's an old girl now







but still does the trick for me @1080p. My latest edition (an XFX R9 390) seems to be having a rather negative effect on my overall case temps. My H50 has handled my [email protected] 4060Mhz like a boss (with my evil 4KRPM Nidec PWM 120x38mm). During IBT Max level passes it used to get a high BUT always stable 57c after 10 passes.

Now when gaming with the added heat load dumped in the case from the 390 and perhaps a LITTLE degrading of the CPU over the years games are now crashing and for whatever reason i can't get IBT to pass EVEN 3 passes with the same settings!! (again why i think degradation). It locks up and has to be powered off. So i guess a small VCore boost would keep this rig rolling till Zen time......

...... However this now puts me OVER 64c!! with the H50. I have for the time being switched the Nidec from exhaust to intake and it will pass standard 10 [email protected] 56/57c as normal. Now i don't really want to leave as is (intake) as it's NOT filtered and will just make a darn mess LMAO!! I was just going to get a H110i GT but as i just raided the "kitty" for the £269 390 another £100 would be rather hard to justify at the moment i was wondering what my other (Corsair of course







) options are.

Soon this rig (well CPU/MoBo/DDR3) will be put out to pasture for the equivalent tier Zen CPU/MoBo/DDR4 as available and funds permit. So i want to upgrade this H50 to another Corsair AIO. My K62 has 2 x 140mm fans on top and a 120 on the back where the H50 is. Now i was wondering how much of a difference a H80i GT would be over this H50/Nidec combo? I'm hoping Zen won't be a toaster oven so i perhaps won't need the H110i GT and the £20 or so difference between the two will "sweeten" the deal some. I just don't want to get buyers remorse if i DON'T go the whole hog (H110i GT) and get the H80i GT and find it only shaves a degree or two off my load temps!!

And vice versa i don't want to go overboard and throw £100 at something and find Zen sips power and the cooling is overkill (no such thing i know but.....







) but a H80i GT would of been "good enough"

So any recommendation? (won't lower clock speed tho..... MWAHAHAHA). She's getting 1.42v's VCore and whatever LLC adds on if that helps.

EDIT: Just tried IBT max settings and it locked up before the FIRST [email protected] 58c









Thanx.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

could you post a pic of your setup from the side with sidepanel off..id like to see the current layout please..will help vsualise things better:thumb:

hands down id go for the h110igt...for newer compatibility sake also better...bigger rad surface...etc etc..the h80i..is good option either way if you wanasave on space.. and you might wana look into doing the aio gpu mod with your h50 perhaps on the gpu..will cool tht baby right down


----------



## Darkstalker420

Hi mate no problem i have also removed the top cover so you can see where in relation the 2 140's are. For now i have also reversed the Nidec around so it is an INTAKE (on the H50). Bottom right of the pic fan is also an INTAKE. Top 2 are EXHAUSTS. Naturally would like the Nidec to be exhausting really as it's unfiltered but for now it WILL pass IBT standard tests x 10 and more importantly play Fallout 4 without the case being taken off









The bad thing is now when gaming i can put my face to the top left 140 and i would say there is quite a fierce heat (and nice cooking PCB smell which i guess is the 390 warmin' the place up LMAO!!). I can see now why the H50 was struggling choking on dat hot air!







. I will leave as is for now or i have to start removing case sides and i feel this a better solution until i can get the H110i (decided to just stop nickel n diming and just buy ONCE and be sure my Zen CPU will be nice and "snug").

I would love to do the Red Mod though i have to say this XFX with a custom fan curve/redoing of the TIM with Ceramique doesn't go above 67c. It't just the heat load it dumps into the rig i think. The 470GTX and then the 6870 were much easier on the heat load. And i guess before we were "sailing close to the wind" with 57c IBT with them. Unfortunately my ASUS MoBo in it's wisdom makes the BOTTOM PciE slot the master x16 and the top a x4 i think. And right under the 390 is my Xonar. And the H50 has a high block/pump and wouldn't fit i think..

Any tips though if you have any would be appreciated.

Thanx.


----------



## GrumpyOne

Hopefully somebody can help me out.

I have an H110i GT on my CPU and an H80i GT on my 780 using the Corsair bracket. The last few days the h80 fans ramp up to almost max speeds while gaming. My GPU never gets above 39 degrees though. I tried running it in quiet mode, performance mode, setting custom curves... The GPU will be sitting at say 38 degrees and all of a sudden the fans ramp up for about 30 seconds. Didn't do that before.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrumpyOne*
> 
> Hopefully somebody can help me out.
> 
> I have an H110i GT on my CPU and an H80i GT on my 780 using the Corsair bracket. The last few days the h80 fans ramp up to almost max speeds while gaming. My GPU never gets above 39 degrees though. I tried running it in quiet mode, performance mode, setting custom curves... The GPU will be sitting at say 38 degrees and all of a sudden the fans ramp up for about 30 seconds. Didn't do that before.


What about fixed %?
I have my 4 SP120Q PWM on my H100i GTX running continuously on 70%. CPU almost never goes over 50°C and it's quiet enough to not be bothered by the noise.


----------



## GrumpyOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> What about fixed %?
> I have my 4 SP120Q PWM on my H100i GTX running continuously on 70%. CPU almost never goes over 50°C and it's quiet enough to not be bothered by the noise.


Tried that too.

What gets me is that it's been running fine for a few months now, it literally just started happening.

Maybe it's the TIM?


----------



## azasadny




----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azasadny*


Nice setup. But I wouldn't put the HDD's there if I were you.
The heat they produce gets sucked in by the graphics card. So the card would run hotter as the temps those HDD's reach are around 30-35°C.


----------



## azasadny

Legitimate point, but those are the WD Red NAS drives and they really don't generate much heat at all. They run much cooler than the other hard drives I've used. I have lots of airflow so temps stay low...


----------



## Chaoz

I don't see any difference between my HDD's I've used. (Samsung (5400rpm, 7200prm), Seagate, WD RED,...)
I got 2x 3 TB WD Red in my NAS, and with fan set to maximum output, they still reach up to 35°C.
WD Black tends to get a bit hotter but other than those they all stay quite the same tho.

That's the reason why I don't have any HDD's in my system anymore. Now I only have 2 SSD's and NAS.


----------



## shamoke

Fresh out of Microcenter. I'm nervous as all hell...

I'll be ok, right!?


----------



## Chaoz

Nice, got the same one, love it best cooler I've had.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstalker420*
> 
> Hi mate no problem i have also removed the top cover so you can see where in relation the 2 140's are. For now i have also reversed the Nidec around so it is an INTAKE (on the H50). Bottom right of the pic fan is also an INTAKE. Top 2 are EXHAUSTS. Naturally would like the Nidec to be exhausting really as it's unfiltered but for now it WILL pass IBT standard tests x 10 and more importantly play Fallout 4 without the case being taken off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bad thing is now when gaming i can put my face to the top left 140 and i would say there is quite a fierce heat (and nice cooking PCB smell which i guess is the 390 warmin' the place up LMAO!!). I can see now why the H50 was struggling choking on dat hot air!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I will leave as is for now or i have to start removing case sides and i feel this a better solution until i can get the H110i (decided to just stop nickel n diming and just buy ONCE and be sure my Zen CPU will be nice and "snug").
> 
> I would love to do the Red Mod though i have to say this XFX with a custom fan curve/redoing of the TIM with Ceramique doesn't go above 67c. It't just the heat load it dumps into the rig i think. The 470GTX and then the 6870 were much easier on the heat load. And i guess before we were "sailing close to the wind" with 57c IBT with them. Unfortunately my ASUS MoBo in it's wisdom makes the BOTTOM PciE slot the master x16 and the top a x4 i think. And right under the 390 is my Xonar. And the H50 has a high block/pump and wouldn't fit i think..
> 
> Any tips though if you have any would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanx.


if you do the red mod then all your issues will stop with the heat...casue then all the heat is transfered through the liquid and dumpedout the case to the rear...pcb will be running cooler also..i did the green mod to a gtx560..with a h60..went from upper 60's to mid 40s then did a dual 40mm rad aio mod with an antec 920...both rads in puch pull...it never went above 30-40 OCed at 1.2ghz stock volts...god i miss that baby...i miss being able to game and stuff...
anyhoot..i had the on rad in the bottom as intake and the other as exhaust on the pcie slots right under the card...granted the aerocool x predator case is a beasty...had enough room for everything


----------



## redshoulder

"Corsair Link Is Still Running" pops up every time I boot up to desktop. How can I stop this besides disabling corsair link from starting in the first place.


----------



## Darkstalker420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> if you do the red mod then all your issues will stop with the heat...casue then all the heat is transfered through the liquid and dumpedout the case to the rear...pcb will be running cooler also..i did the green mod to a gtx560..with a h60..went from upper 60's to mid 40s then did a dual 40mm rad aio mod with an antec 920...both rads in puch pull...it never went above 30-40 OCed at 1.2ghz stock volts...god i miss that baby...i miss being able to game and stuff...
> anyhoot..i had the on rad in the bottom as intake and the other as exhaust on the pcie slots right under the card...granted the aerocool x predator case is a beasty...had enough room for everything


Hi mate as i mentioned the H50 pump/block is to TALL to mount on my 390. My Xonar is in the PCI slot UNDERNEATH the GPU and if i was to mount it successfully there is no way in hell i could use the soundcard as it wouldn't fit back in the slot. The H50 has a much bigger (height wise) block than any of the other Corsair AIO's as it was the first one they did. Trust me bud it won't fit. Thanks for the reply anyway. I'm just going to go H110i GT and be damned LMAO!!

See what i mean.



Thanx.


----------



## deathroll

Is there any remarkable difference except Corsair logo with rebranding of the Hydro Series coolers? For instance H100i GTX is now H110i v2, H110i GTX is now H115i and H110i GT becomes H110i..@Corsair Joseph


----------



## Dark Side

Hi, there









In the next couple of days I will receive H100i GTX.

I intend to purchase AX760i psu.

The issue is that on my main board I do not have internal USB port.

So, will the C-port on the PSU be able to provide this Corsair link to work since I do not have USB 2.0 on main board or do I need some sort of adapter for this?

My mainboard is Maximus VIII Impact.

I highly appreciate any advice, thanks.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dark Side*
> 
> Hi, there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the next couple of days I will receive H100i GTX.
> 
> I intend to purchase AX760i psu.
> 
> The issue is that on my main board I do not have internal USB port.
> 
> So, will the C-port on the PSU be able to provide this Corsair link to work since I do not have USB 2.0 on main board or do I need some sort of adapter for this?
> 
> My mainboard is Maximus VIII Impact.
> 
> I highly appreciate any advice, thanks.


USB 3.0 is backward compatibility with USB 2.0.


----------



## GrumpyOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrumpyOne*
> 
> Hopefully somebody can help me out.
> 
> I have an H110i GT on my CPU and an H80i GT on my 780 using the Corsair bracket. The last few days the h80 fans ramp up to almost max speeds while gaming. My GPU never gets above 39 degrees though. I tried running it in quiet mode, performance mode, setting custom curves... The GPU will be sitting at say 38 degrees and all of a sudden the fans ramp up for about 30 seconds. Didn't do that before.


Bumping this to hopefully get some help, does anyone think it might be the TIM?


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathroll*
> 
> Is there any remarkable difference except Corsair logo with rebranding of the Hydro Series coolers? For instance H100i GTX is now H110i v2, H110i GTX is now H115i and H110i GT becomes H110i..@Corsair Joseph


That's pretty much it, the updated logo. Other than that, the previous SKUs are technically the same as the V2 models. There's probably one thing that's worth noting though, the V2 models have had their blocks slightly tweaked to ensure compatibility with Skylake Mini-ITX boards.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> That's pretty much it, the updated logo. Other than that, the previous SKUs are technically the same as the V2 models. There's probably one thing that's worth noting though, the V2 models have had their blocks slightly tweaked to ensure compatibility with Skylake Mini-ITX boards.


Not just Skylake. The new design is more to help with motherboards that like to test mITX specs like having capacitors near the socket. Case in point, my Gigabyte Z97N-WIFI


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redshoulder*
> 
> "Corsair Link Is Still Running" pops up every time I boot up to desktop. How can I stop this besides disabling corsair link from starting in the first place.


yeah, no other way to stop that pop up other than untick the option where C link starts on start up.


----------



## nowcontrol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dark Side*
> 
> Hi, there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the next couple of days I will receive H100i GTX.
> 
> I intend to purchase AX760i psu.
> 
> The issue is that on my main board I do not have internal USB port.
> 
> So, will the C-port on the PSU be able to provide this Corsair link to work since I do not have USB 2.0 on main board or do I need some sort of adapter for this?
> 
> My mainboard is Maximus VIII Impact.
> 
> I highly appreciate any advice, thanks.


My advice would be to get one of these .. https://www.nzxt.com/products/iu01-USB-Expansion .. and connect it to a usb3 header with an appropriate adapter cable.

I had to get one for my EVGA Z170 FTW because it has no internal usb2 headers, and only one usb3 header.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not just Skylake. The new design is more to help with motherboards that like to test mITX specs like having capacitors near the socket. Case in point, my Gigabyte Z97N-WIFI


And that.. I was going to edit my post you beat me to it


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> And that.. I was going to edit my post you beat me to it


lol I heard that discovery caused quite a ruffle in the feathers over there. Best to not discuss it further I suppose


----------



## Dark Side

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nowcontrol*
> 
> My advice would be to get one of these .. https://www.nzxt.com/products/iu01-USB-Expansion .. and connect it to a usb3 header with an appropriate adapter cable.
> 
> I had to get one for my EVGA Z170 FTW because it has no internal usb2 headers, and only one usb3 header.


thanks man, I found this expansion card on net today but anyway I don't have any internal usb 2.0 port...

my mobo like this:










what kind of adapter I need?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstalker420*
> 
> Hi mate as i mentioned the H50 pump/block is to TALL to mount on my 390. My Xonar is in the PCI slot UNDERNEATH the GPU and if i was to mount it successfully there is no way in hell i could use the soundcard as it wouldn't fit back in the slot. The H50 has a much bigger (height wise) block than any of the other Corsair AIO's as it was the first one they did. Trust me bud it won't fit. Thanks for the reply anyway. I'm just going to go H110i GT and be damned LMAO!!
> 
> See what i mean.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanx.


pleasure and i ddnt miss that point on the h50.....why dont you just move the sound card to different slot if there is one perhaps???
another option..get the new cpu cooler and an new 120mm version for the card with a smaller/low profile block..zip ties work just as well bro...its Legendary....anyhow hope you get it sorted...


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dark Side*
> 
> thanks man, I found this expansion card on net today but anyway I don't have any internal usb 2.0 port...
> 
> my mobo like this:
> 
> -snip-
> 
> what kind of adapter I need?


Something like this:


----------



## Pastorino

Hello everyone!

I did not wish to make a new thread as this one seems perfect for my issue. If not, let me know! I can start a new one. I've searched extensively about my case and found nothing.

I'm installing my new H110 GT on a fairly small case: Thermaltake Versa H34 Mid Tower.

First issue is, I had to install the radiator in the front, so It could be inside the case. On top I would have to put the radiator outside and there isn't a hole to pass the tubing through.. The radiator + both 140mm coolers are too thick to this case, they stand on top of the upper motherboard part, covering the 12V entry and I could not even screw it without making a hole on the case.. Maybe making a whole for the tubes would be a good alternative, but still I would have the radiator outside.

So I removed the lower 5.25" bay to fit the cooler and pass the tubes through. My idea was to have the radiator exhaust to the front/ under and have both coolers from the case (1000 rpm) intake one from the rear and one from the top. Is it a good idea? I never had to think so much about cooling, it's my first serious overclock. I thought it would be good because both intake fans are getting cold air to the cpu/gpu and the radiator is exhausting them out from the front.

(I know the rear fan is still exhausting)



The second issue is, on this config, the plate requires a lot of side pressure to be on top of the processor, because of the tube thickness.. Is it normal? Or it has to fit lightly?

This is the way it puts the least pressure:


This way would be perfect, but it doesn't reach the processor:


Those ways put, in crescent order, more pressure:



Should I worry about that?

Edit: I could maybe put the radiator on the top/far front to exhaust, with one air cooler on the rear also exhausting and one on the front to intake.. I guess this would work less efficiently, am I right? Any other ideas?

Thanks a lot, will appreciate any help.


----------



## VSG

Install the block first, then the rad. It will be easier if you rest the case on its side if you don't want to take the motherboard out.


----------



## I Am The Stig

So the thumb screw that holds down the h100i on the MB broke (a piece of it is still in the standoff). Does Corsair sell replacements for this?


----------



## Pastorino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Install the block first, then the rad. It will be easier if you rest the case on its side if you don't want to take the motherboard out.


For sure.. Thanks for the tip. I would have to take the mobo off because the radiator doesn't pass the 5.25" hole.

Is it bad if it's taking some twisting pressure from the tubes? I don't know if putting uneven pressure on the processor could be harmful.


----------



## VSG

Once the block is installed, use the rotary fittings on the side to lower pressure and have the tubing follow the route of least resistance. Try doing a dry run to get an idea.

If you are re-mounting the block, wipe off the thermal paste and apply a new layer if you have some more paste. If not, you would have to get some.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pastorino*
> 
> For sure.. Thanks for the tip. I would have to take the mobo off because the radiator doesn't pass the 5.25" hole.
> 
> Is it bad if it's taking some twisting pressure from the tubes? I don't know if putting uneven pressure on the processor could be harmful.


is this the case??

http://www.thermaltake.com/Chassis/Mid_Tower_/Versa/C_00002473/Versa_H34/Gallery.htm

this cooler should be able to fit in the top, even if just in a push or pull config exhausting out it will do more than fine, like geggeg said..ly case flat on its side...mount the pump/block first,,remember to keep a little pressure with one hand on the center while in Xpattern tightning the screws,,,and definitely redo tim....only need to use a tiny dobble in the center..









heres a quick guide..not the same exact cooler but same principle

https://youtu.be/8-kLo5RF2lI


----------



## Pastorino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Once the block is installed, use the rotary fittings on the side to lower pressure and have the tubing follow the route of least resistance. Try doing a dry run to get an idea.
> 
> If you are re-mounting the block, wipe off the thermal paste and apply a new layer if you have some more paste. If not, you would have to get some.


I was not re-mounting, just doing it for the first time. Bought some corsair TIM in case something goes wrong. I installed it even thou it had some pressure on it, but the structure seems pretty solid and I remained confident. Hope nothing goes wrong.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> is this the case??
> 
> http://www.thermaltake.com/Chassis/Mid_Tower_/Versa/C_00002473/Versa_H34/Gallery.htm
> 
> this cooler should be able to fit in the top, even if just in a push or pull config exhausting out it will do more than fine, like geggeg said..ly case flat on its side...mount the pump/block first,,remember to keep a little pressure with one hand on the center while in Xpattern tightning the screws,,,and definitely redo tim....only need to use a tiny dobble in the center..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> heres a quick guide..not the same exact cooler but same principle
> 
> https://youtu.be/8-kLo5RF2lI


Yeah, that's the case! It doesn't fit the top with the air coolers under it. I can't put the radiator outside on top because there's not room to pass the tubes. The only way I could put it on top is if I had radiator inside and fans outside, but that doesn't seem a good alternative.

I installed the radiator before the block, because it was installed outside on the front, but was very careful. I had room to sacrifice the lower 5.25" bayer to pass the tubes through. Did the X pattern to tight the screws, but didn't put pressure on my finger so I don't apply the TIM before tightening it (does that makes sense? Read that somewhere).

I did watch this video before, but he didn't put the fans on the radiator.. That was my whole problem.

Some pics:

The front has some foam inside, hope it doesn't burn with the heat.



It doesn't close perfectly too because of the radiator thickness.


Full config. Look how little space I have on top to put the radiator + fans.


This config seems solid to me, so cool air goes through cpu and gpu and exhausts on front. I have more air exhausting than entering. Block has some pressure clockwise, but seems solid on this structure. If it seems unnatural I can find another position or try another config. What you guys think?

Thanks a lot for all the precious help.


----------



## Chaoz

Why not mount the radiator on the top but more towards the dvd-bay. Seems like the top panel is big enough to mount a big radiator with Push/Pull config.
I also mounted my H100i GTX the same way you did. But i turned the CPU-block around. Otherwise the tubing would be too long to fit properly in my case.



I also wrapped the upside-down Corsair logo with some carbon vinyl i still had left from when I wrapped the interior of my car.


----------



## Pastorino

I thought of that.. But this config seems best for me, as I can put 2 fans to intake and 2 fans to exhaust. I i had it on top, I would had 1 fan intake from the front and 3 exhausting in the back (would it be better?)

Searching about this pull/push config. My idea was just to push air from the case through the radiator and out the case.

I was going to do the same as you with the block, but it didn't reach far enough (see previous page, I posted a photo hehe)

Edit: Oh yeah, forgot one reason I didn't put it on top front: Front cables would be smashed with the radiator. Maybe if this config suits better I can just deal better with them. As the radiator is too big, it was always in front of the motherboard 12V PSU entrance and further it would compete with the front cables.

Thanks!


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pastorino*
> 
> I thought of that.. But this config seems best for me, as I can put 2 fans to intake and 2 fans to exhaust. I i had it on top, I would had 1 fan intake from the front and 3 exhausting in the back (would it be better?)
> 
> Searching about this pull/push config. My idea was just to push air from the case through the radiator and out the case.
> 
> I was going to do the same as you with the block, but it didn't reach far enough (see previous page, I posted a photo hehe)
> 
> Edit: Oh yeah, forgot one reason I didn't put it on top front: Front cables would be smashed with the radiator. Maybe if this config suits better I can just deal better with them. As the radiator is too big, it was always in front of the motherboard 12V PSU entrance and further it would compete with the front cables.
> 
> Thanks!


What you could also do, if you're quite handy with tools. Is move the HDD bay to the left around 1-2 inches. (I completely removed my HDD bay, for the radiator to fit perfectly. Switched over to 2x SSD instead.)
That makes some space for the radiator to fit perfectly inside the case and the fans on the outside where the radiator was. Which also allows you to mount the CPU-block like i did. You also can mount the fans as push/pull config.

Or if you don't use a dvd-drive you can remove the 5,25" bay aswell and mount the radiator there.


----------



## Pastorino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> What you could also do, if you're quite handy with tools. Is move the HDD bay to the left around 1-2 inches. (I completely removed my HDD bay, for the radiator to fit perfectly. Switched over to 2x SSD instead.)
> That makes some space for the radiator to fit perfectly inside the case and the fans on the outside where the radiator was. Which also allows you to mount the CPU-block like i did. You also can mount the fans as push/pull config.
> 
> Or if you don't use a dvd-drive you can remove the 5,25" bay aswell and mount the radiator there.


Great idea! will do that. Just need to make some holes. The downside is I have to remove the block, reapply TIM, etc... My PSU was arriving tomorrow, was excited to get things going. But I'll not be lazy, this idea seems great. Will wait for PSU so I can measure well before making some holes.

I plan to get one 5.25" to put an ICY DOCK 6 bay 2.5 ssd, to make a 4ssd raid 0 on the future. Maybe another one to a blue ray drive, but I'm guessing an external one will suit best because of the many pc's/mac's we have on the studio, so one bay need to stay for future upgrade. Your first idea seems awesome, will stick to that. You think it'll be better than the way it is?

Push pull config is one fan intake and other exhausting? sorry, kinda new to this water cooling stuff, will do a better research before getting into questions.

Thanks


----------



## Mergatroid

Here is something else you could consider. I think it would look awesome on your case:

http://www.overclock.net/t/907643/corsair-obsidian-650d-mid-tower/750#post_14943357

The shroud on the top of that case holds the two fans, with the rad mounted inside under the fans. I think it ads to the look of the case.


----------



## Pastorino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Here is something else you could consider. I think it would look awesome on your case:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/907643/corsair-obsidian-650d-mid-tower/750#post_14943357
> 
> The shroud on the top of that case holds the two fans, with the rad mounted inside under the fans. I think it ads to the look of the case.


Would it not be worse for venting? or doesn't matter? I read in a youtube video that with all vents off, the temperature was only 10ºC lower, but as I'm planning on doing a 1Ghz overclock, that might be more..

Seems nice anyway, thanks. I may try to think on a fan support, maybe start modding, have a lot of tools home.. For the future.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pastorino*
> 
> Great idea! will do that. Just need to make some holes. The downside is I have to remove the block, reapply TIM, etc... My PSU was arriving tomorrow, was excited to get things going. But I'll not be lazy, this idea seems great. Will wait for PSU so I can measure well before making some holes.
> 
> I plan to get one 5.25" to put an ICY DOCK 6 bay 2.5 ssd, to make a 4ssd raid 0 on the future. Maybe another one to a blue ray drive, but I'm guessing an external one will suit best because of the many pc's/mac's we have on the studio, so one bay need to stay for future upgrade. Your first idea seems awesome, will stick to that. You think it'll be better than the way it is?
> 
> Push pull config is one fan intake and other exhausting? sorry, kinda new to this water cooling stuff, will do a better research before getting into questions.
> 
> Thanks


If you move your radiator to the inside there won't be so much tension on the tubing, which you have now. And push/pull config will be possible and allow you to OC it over +1 GHz.
And you can make it as silent as you want it. My push/pull config allows me to have the fans at 70% which is barely noticable, but still does decent cooling.

This is push/pull:


----------



## Penryn

So I still have an h75 I need to RMA due to pump failure but in the meantime I just bought an h100i GTX for my upgrade


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pastorino*
> 
> Would it not be worse for venting? or doesn't matter? I read in a youtube video that with all vents off, the temperature was only 10ºC lower, but as I'm planning on doing a 1Ghz overclock, that might be more..
> 
> Seems nice anyway, thanks. I may try to think on a fan support, maybe start modding, have a lot of tools home.. For the future.


your cases top is an offset top so i dont get why it cant fit?????..myabe mod the top indeed...use the shroud that was suggested,,it really work well and it wouldnt take much effort to cut the top out,,but then do it properly with an offset to the furthst point to the side,,so it doesnt interfere with anything inside...


----------



## Darkstalker420

I would love to but alas ONCE AGAIN my ASUS MoBo is against me







The only other PCI slot is blocked by 2 slot GPU heatsinks so no where else for it to go mate i'm afraid. I facepalmed..... LMAO!! So unless i go back to onboard RealTek no red mod for me.

Thanx.


----------



## Darkstalker420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> pleasure and i ddnt miss that point on the h50.....why dont you just move the sound card to different slot if there is one perhaps???
> another option..get the new cpu cooler and an new 120mm version for the card with a smaller/low profile block..zip ties work just as well bro...its Legendary....anyhow hope you get it sorted...


I would love to but alas ONCE AGAIN my ASUS MoBo is against me rolleyes.gif The only other PCI slot is blocked by 2 slot GPU heatsinks so no where else for it to go mate i'm afraid. I facepalmed..... LMAO!! So unless i go back to onboard RealTek no red mod for me.

Sorry double post.

Thanx.


----------



## ArunK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> The H115i is the H110i GTX renamed.
> 
> We had some people say that the GT/GTX thing was confusing so we renamed the product line a bit to simplify:
> 
> H80i GT -> H80i V2
> H100i GTX -> H100i V2
> H110i GT -> H110i
> H110i GTX -> H115i
> 
> *The only significant change on the H115i is that the spacing [/U]of the fans is back to 15mm per our standard*.


Thank God!!! That makes this very compatible to lot of systems (e.g. Fractal Design Core series)


----------



## CannedBullets

So the H115 isn't an H110 with a thicker radiator? I ordered an H110i GTX because PCPartPicker said the H115 wasn't compatible with my case (Corsair C70).


----------



## Rayce185

The question has probably been asked already, sorry if that's the case but:

Is there some kind of lifespan or revision that should be made? I've been running two H70's (CPU and GPU) for around three years now without any issue. Does/should the fluid need to be changed, the pump get cleaned or renewing the hoses?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

nope ..none..only if you have issues you can ask for RMA...or just mod the units with new clear tubing,add a reservior and be 10DEG C cooler in the end:thumb:


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> nope ..none..only if you have issues you can ask for RMA...or just mod the units with new clear tubing,add a reservior and be 10DEG C cooler in the end:thumb:


Hmm Then I could just combine both circuits into one as well, right? Or would having two pumps be a bad idea?


----------



## VSG

Corsair Facebook shared a review of the H5 SF cooler: https://www.facebook.com/Corsair/posts/1158965340810219


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Corsair Facebook shared a review of the H5 SF cooler: https://www.facebook.com/Corsair/posts/1158965340810219


http://thermalbench.com/2016/02/26/corsair-hydro-h5-sf-cpu-cooler/


----------



## VSG

Thanks for the direct link, I couldn't have posted it myself due to the OCN rules.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Hey people

just ordered H115i and Sp140 to upgrade from H100i









will update this thread with temp result before/after


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Hey people
> 
> just ordered H115i and Sp140 to upgrade from H100i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will update this thread with temp result before/after


Congrats, I'm interested! Please when you do, post your screenshots using the latest HWiNFO64 with all system's fans + Temps + Voltages shown, stating your ambient temps, as well.

Thank you.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Congrats, I'm interested! Please when you do, post your screenshots using the latest HWiNFO64 with all system's fans + Temps + Voltages shown, stating your ambient temps, as well.
> 
> Thank you.


Will do for sure









also i got the thermal grizzly thermal paste.. my 5820k will not stay happy as now


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Corsair Facebook shared a review of the H5 SF cooler: https://www.facebook.com/Corsair/posts/1158965340810219


Pretty interesting data. Is that the first stand alone review for that cooler?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Pretty interesting data. Is that the first stand alone review for that cooler?


There are 2-3 others from other guys like Guru3D but with







results


----------



## ArunK

I am also getting H115i and thermaltake Versa H34


----------



## ArunK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pastorino*
> 
> Would it not be worse for venting? or doesn't matter? I read in a youtube video that with all vents off, the temperature was only 10ºC lower, but as I'm planning on doing a 1Ghz overclock, that might be more..
> 
> Seems nice anyway, thanks. I may try to think on a fan support, maybe start modding, have a lot of tools home.. For the future.


Pastorino: I have been contemplating on cases and AIO coolers now I am emboldened on Thermaltake Versa H34 and Corsair H115i. Placing the order today.








I have few observation on your build (after seeing the photos ).
1. I like the way you placed the radiator outside the case. it will be so easy to clean the radiator just vacuum it. if you had push pull then there will fans in front then cleaning the rad will be a problem. but you said something about closing the front grill /fascia did you solve that so is it still a problem? are the fans 140mm each? which brand? are they static pressure one or stock ones?
2. In that case would you mount the radiator inside and still fans also inside?
3. You did you choose to install in your fans pushing air through the rad as an exhaust? why not intake?. After all cold air comes from outside and need to cool the rad first will be the most effective isn't it? were you afraid that hot air from radiator will hamper the GFx operation?
4. Is there one more fan mounting a the bottom (apart from the PS one) are you also mounting that one as intake?
5. Are you going to make the top fans as exhaust?
6. I did not see any wiring photos or details for pump, tachometer feedback and the two fan connections and USB connection . How did you do it? does the motherboard CPU PUM fan header fully controls the pump and fans or...?

I am getting exact setup buddy. so you are my test case ahead of me.


----------



## Pastorino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArunK*
> 
> Pastorino: I have been contemplating on cases and AIO coolers now I am emboldened on Thermaltake Versa H34 and Corsair H115i. Placing the order today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have few observation on your build (after seeing the photos ).
> 1. I like the way you placed the radiator outside the case. it will be so easy to clean the radiator just vacuum it. if you had push pull then there will fans in front then cleaning the rad will be a problem. but you said something about closing the front grill /fascia did you solve that so is it still a problem? are the fans 140mm each? which brand? are they static pressure one or stock ones?
> 2. In that case would you mount the radiator inside and still fans also inside?
> 3. You did you choose to install in your fans pushing air through the rad as an exhaust? why not intake?. After all cold air comes from outside and need to cool the rad first will be the most effective isn't it? were you afraid that hot air from radiator will hamper the GFx operation?
> 4. Is there one more fan mounting a the bottom (apart from the PS one) are you also mounting that one as intake?
> 5. Are you going to make the top fans as exhaust?
> 6. I did not see any wiring photos or details for pump, tachometer feedback and the two fan connections and USB connection . How did you do it? does the motherboard CPU PUM fan header fully controls the pump and fans or...?
> 
> I am getting exact setup buddy. so you are my test case ahead of me.


Hey matte,

1. Still a problem, but not a real problem. It almost closes, but don't.. It doesn't really bother me as it's not damaging the rad, so I guess I'll be keeping that way for now since I'm spending my time hackintoshing it and getting it ready for work asap! Maybe I'll try different configurations after a while.. don't forget to share your configs too! It's stock fans (that came with the cooler) with stock configurations, will be seeing tomorrow how I can improve things as I'll be having more time. One is working on 900rpm and the other 800. It's already overclocked to 4.5, 1.3v. Made a quick 2hr test and got 82c max with this config on two cores. The other 4 all under 80.

2. I tried to put both inside, at the top, but didn't fit. Maybe at front top. Considering outside fan configuration as I was also recommended here.

3. Yeah, was considering intaking it, but with this front configuration it seemed better to intake from back/top onto cpu/gpu area and then exhausts at front. if I had it intake, I would have to buy another fan or lower radiator fan speeds. I read that exhaustion fans need to have more overall RPM than intake, so I rather exhaust it. TT fans are 1000rpm each. Will be messing more this week, seeing how much I can push them. Maybe buying more fans to try to get some 1-3c less.

4. There's on at the bottom, I guess I'll exhaust it. Maybe this way I can try intake from rad and exhaust on 3 or 4 fans (one more at the top). Gonna have to think a bit, but I'm happy this way, already spent a lot of money. Things in Brasil are really expensive right now, so I'll take a break to think and research more.. I'm getting really good temps right now.

5. Depends on how the whole config will be. Right now I would intake it if I had one more at the bottom exhausting.This would be a nice easy upgrade for now.

6. Gonna get some pics tomorrow about the wiring. Theres two cha_fans right on top of the GPU, at the back. got both there. Corsair front fans connect to the pump wires on a different cable. Didn't checked much about controls, as I'm really busy configuring it first. I had some tests for temperature and moved on to OS configuration. Having a really hard time with that hackintosh going. Soon I'll be checking everything and get back to you!

Get me updated about your rig too! Don't hesitate to ask if need.


----------



## Pastorino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> If you move your radiator to the inside there won't be so much tension on the tubing, which you have now. And push/pull config will be possible and allow you to OC it over +1 GHz.
> And you can make it as silent as you want it. My push/pull config allows me to have the fans at 70% which is barely noticable, but still does decent cooling.
> 
> This is push/pull:


Yeah, that's true. I already got it to 4.5Ghz. Did some fast two hr test and had almost everything under 80c. Was configuring some things first, so I'll be thinking more about it from now on.. I don't know If I can put two fans outside. The radiator itself almost doesn't fit. I was happy about my temperatures, will be running more deep tests tomorrow and Friday to see how it goes. Maybe buying more fans in the future.

Got it! they both work at same time right? Seems like a good improvement.. Don't know if I have the money to buy more fans now thou, maybe I'll have to play with what I got until next month.

My cpu is already very quiet, specially compared to my UPS haha... So loud!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> your cases top is an offset top so i dont get why it cant fit?????..myabe mod the top indeed...use the shroud that was suggested,,it really work well and it wouldnt take much effort to cut the top out,,but then do it properly with an offset to the furthst point to the side,,so it doesnt interfere with anything inside...


Yeah.. I don't know why my mobo is so close to the top, it's horrible. I was thinking about push pull config as Chaoz said, so maybe I'll have to think another way around.. The problem is I'll have to make several cuts to put my hard drives further away, and almost no space to my outgoing PSU cables.. Really thinking about top mod or just putting my hard drives elsewhere, but don't know where thou.. Could do something under it maybe.

I'll post some pics tomorrow! Of my final build and PSU on.


----------



## ArunK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pastorino*
> 
> Yeah, that's true. I already got it to 4.5Ghz. Did some fast two hr test and had almost everything under 80c. Was configuring some things first, so I'll be thinking more about it from now on.. I don't know If I can put two fans outside. The radiator itself almost doesn't fit. I was happy about my temperatures, will be running more deep tests tomorrow and Friday to see how it goes. Maybe buying more fans in the future.
> 
> Got it! they both work at same time right? Seems like a good improvement.. Don't know if I have the money to buy more fans now thou, maybe I'll have to play with what I got until next month.
> 
> My cpu is already very quiet, specially compared to my UPS haha... So loud!
> Yeah.. I don't know why my mobo is so close to the top, it's horrible. I was thinking about push pull config as Chaoz said, so maybe I'll have to think another way around.. The problem is I'll have to make several cuts to put my hard drives further away, and almost no space to my outgoing PSU cables.. Really thinking about top mod or just putting my hard drives elsewhere, but don't know where thou.. Could do something under it maybe.
> 
> I'll post some pics tomorrow! Of my final build and PSU on.


The biggest problem with "Push" (just single fan push or the push of the push-pull config) is that the pushing fan creates a "dead zone" on the radiator and huge accumulation of dust in the radiator which you cannot clean.
see this youtube video at 4:00 min https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UyC3lZ5WFMk

But in spite of this problem I am very tempted to do Push-Pull myself  owing to the fact it will quieter.


----------



## ArunK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pastorino*
> 
> 4. There's on at the bottom, I guess I'll exhaust it. *Maybe this way I can try intake from rad and exhaust on 3 or 4 fans (one more at the top).* Gonna have to think a bit, but I'm happy this way, already spent a lot of money. Things in Brasil are really expensive right now, so I'll take a break to think and research more.. I'm getting really good temps right now.
> .


This is what I am planning to do. intake from front and bottom, i.e. cool air from front through the radiator as a pull (will definitely experiment on push-pull). This will indeed heat the air and send it wards towards GFx, but I am also planning to do a intake from bottom so there will be good cold air from bottom...
Exhaust is 3 fans (or min 2x140) on the top as well as the back fan as exhaust...

I want a magic switch to reverse every fan making it just like your setup and take measurement also. LoL.

Btw what is your system config?

Mine is X99 i75960x
with an older GFX card Geforce 690
on a Asus X99-M-WS MB
in a Versa H34.
DDR4 2400 32GB corsair dominator or G.Skill ripjaw.

No HDD or No 2.5 SDD instead planning for PCIE card SSD intel 750series.


----------



## sjudge1991

Hi all, I am thinking of painting my h110i GT radiator and was wondering if anyone has done it and has any tips or tricks.

I would be painting it white to match the white and black theme in my S340. I wouldn't be painting the rad fins just the out section. I will mask off the corsair logo and silver bar too.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sjudge1991*
> 
> Hi all, I am thinking of painting my h110i GT radiator and was wondering if anyone has done it and has any tips or tricks.
> 
> I would be painting it white to match the white and black theme in my S340. I wouldn't be painting the rad fins just the out section. I will mask off the corsair logo and silver bar too.


hi there look here same priciple applys to yours
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjf9f7qoqLLAhXK6RQKHWQCCX0QtwIIHTAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DUKlPSt0ZuGU&usg=AFQjCNG2pXrxMeGtkn-gI628KzSYuRxlIw

a safer "non warranty destroyer option" is to use VINYL:thumb:


----------



## Darkstalker420

Got my H110i GT and wow what a difference over the H50 (now on my daughters 860K rig upstairs







). I can now pass IBT on MAX for 10 passes at 54c!! And that is with the CPU/NB at 3000Mhz and 1.25v for that. Made a big difference with the new cooler NO doubt. This i should also point out is with the fans set on the Balanced profile in Link 4







.

Amazing is the word imho. It was a bit of a struggle to get it in my K62. I had to remove my MoBo then install the H110i GT inside the case and have the included fans set in the "pull" configuration. The only other issue was i had to cut away the two "tags" (that show you where the pins line up on fan headers) so i could plug in the pump RPM sensor and another case fan. This was caused by the EXTREMELY tight fit between the radiator and the top of the MoBo. NO chance of "push" configuration.

However this doesn't seemed to have hindered the performance at all. Glad i went H110i GT in the end and GREAT build quality only strange thing was the AMD mount tbh. The Intel one is an X style and the AMD one just clips into the standard AMD mount. Why don't AIO makers use the 4 boll mounts around the AMD socket? I modded my H50 to use the AMD metal back plate rather than the plastic one Corsair supplied (with metal fittings that sometimes just spun if you cranked on them to hard).

I made a few degrees if i remember







And feel this mount is a regression over the older one but that's just my personal opinion but as i said the unit is top quality for sure. Glad i stayed with Corsair and have now installed:

My H50 (2010!!).
Brothers H70.
Step sons H60.

And all are still purring along with no issues at all.

Thanx.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstalker420*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Got my H110i GT and wow what a difference over the H50 (now on my daughters 860K rig upstairs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I can now pass IBT on MAX for 10 passes at 54c!! And that is with the CPU/NB at 3000Mhz and 1.25v for that. Made a big difference with the new cooler NO doubt. This i should also point out is with the fans set on the Balanced profile in Link 4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Amazing is the word imho. It was a bit of a struggle to get it in my K62. I had to remove my MoBo then install the H110i GT inside the case and have the included fans set in the "pull" configuration. The only other issue was i had to cut away the two "tags" (that show you where the pins line up on fan headers) so i could plug in the pump RPM sensor and another case fan. This was caused by the EXTREMELY tight fit between the radiator and the top of the MoBo. NO chance of "push" configuration.
> 
> However this doesn't seemed to have hindered the performance at all. Glad i went H110i GT in the end and GREAT build quality only strange thing was the AMD mount tbh. The Intel one is an X style and the AMD one just clips into the standard AMD mount. Why don't AIO makers use the 4 boll mounts around the AMD socket? I modded my H50 to use the AMD metal back plate rather than the plastic one Corsair supplied (with metal fittings that sometimes just spun if you cranked on them to hard).
> 
> I made a few degrees if i remember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And feel this mount is a regression over the older one but that's just my personal opinion but as i said the unit is top quality for sure. Glad i stayed with Corsair and have now installed:
> 
> My H50 (2010!!).
> Brothers H70.
> Step sons H60.
> 
> And all are still purring along with no issues at all.
> 
> Thanx.


Glad to hear that you really like your new H110i GT cooler. CPU temp on IBT looks great as well, huge improvement indeed









I appreciate you taking the time to share your feedback here. I am sure that others will find this helpful.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Great stuff man...you can always get/make a custom shroud..top cover and move the rad/fans even up more giving you more clearence..nice..
Show us some pics bro..

Hey rep..hows it going..


----------



## ArunK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Glad to hear that you really like your new H110i GT cooler. CPU temp on IBT looks great as well, huge improvement indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I appreciate you taking the time to share your feedback here. I am sure that others will find this helpful.


Hey, wanted to know ths from Corsair first hand.
In H115i if I wanted to do a push pull config, will the two fan outputs from the base support fan splitters further to make way for 4 fans? Will it supply that much power? 4 fans instead of 2?
if yes, what is the ideal config? connect the front and back fan on the same output vs top and bottom in one output?
If no, what is the suggested powering up setup?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArunK*
> 
> Hey, wanted to know ths from Corsair first hand.
> In H115i if I wanted to do a push pull config, will the two fan outputs from the base support fan splitters further to make way for 4 fans? Will it supply that much power? 4 fans instead of 2?
> if yes, what is the ideal config? connect the front and back fan on the same output vs top and bottom in one output?
> If no, what is the suggested powering up setup?


Get another 2:1 PWM splitter, connect each splitter to a different fan header. If you use the CPU FAN and CPU OPT headers then the same control can work for both. I don't know if Corsair Link will work like that though, but motherboard based PWM control will.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Get another 2:1 PWM splitter, connect each splitter to a different fan header. If you use the CPU FAN and CPU OPT headers then the same control can work for both. I don't know if Corsair Link will work like that though, but motherboard based PWM control will.


My 4x Corsair SP120Q PWM editions work like a charm on my H100i GTX with 2x 4-pin y-splitters. The Corsair Link software works also very good (whenever it wants to work







) with the fans. Have 'em constantly spinning at 1100 rpm which you can barely hear over the noise of my GPU.


----------



## CannedBullets

That H-series form needs to be updated to include the H115i/H110i GTX.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> That H-series form needs to be updated to include the H115i/H110i GTX.


You're right and I'm sorry I haven't been very active. I've been dealing with a lot of personal stuff lately. I'll see what I can do about updating this over the weekend. Currently have mid term week.


----------



## alayoubi

I have H80i GT got it for a cheap price & i am thinking to mod it to be with 360mm Rad!

Your thoughts ?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alayoubi*
> 
> I have H80i GT got it for a cheap price & i am thinking to mod it to be with 360mm Rad!
> 
> Your thoughts ?


Are you sure the pump is strong enough to handle such a large red?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i can confirm this to anyone modding a h or other aio...YES it can push thru a 360 rad,,granted not a monsta or very thick one..but something like a 360 @ 30mm thick can be done..i did this once with two 40mm thick 120mm rads with an h70...tubes were each from 10-30cm long...between them to the pump/block...it purred like a kitten eating steak for breakfast...

fyi..you might want to add a little res..like a 100ml in between..makes it easier to fill and quicker to bleed out..you can even use a second aio pump as a secondary pump to push things faster....


----------



## VSG

Eh? If anything, thicker rads with more tubes and rows will be easier on the pump than the thinner ones.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

nope ...it all comes down to the pump/unit...i dismantled the h70 totaly..cleaned it out...afterwards..it pushed twice as much as before spring cleaning then gunk out of it...there was this black gue..hair like substance inside the copper blocks cooling fins...

its luck of the draw in my opinion honestly..some get great results like i did when i had it..others dont...just make sure to bleed it and run it atleast a day or two nonstop to get all air out and periodically check in on it for leaks and shake the pump and rd/s a lot..it helped me back then...other have even used simple ddc pumps and the aio block as just that..a block...


----------



## VSG

I am saying that the same pump can push more coolant through thicker rads with more tubes and rows than thinner rows with less. Nothing about how well the pump/block unit itself is operating.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am saying that the same pump can push more coolant through thicker rads with more tubes and rows than thinner rows with less. Nothing about how well the pump/block unit itself is operating.


Pumps are designed to move a particular volume of fluid. If you increase the volume (as in larger rad and larger diameter tubes) you could end up with a feeble flow of fluid. So whether or not it can handle a larger volume would depend on how good the pump is, which is why I brought it up. If you are willing to wade through this huge thread , there are similar questions with similar answers earlier on.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Pumps are designed to move a particular volume of fluid. If you increase the volume (as in larger rad and larger diameter tubes) you could end up with a feeble flow of fluid. So whether or not it can handle a larger volume would depend on how good the pump is, which is why I brought it up. If you are willing to wade through this huge thread , there are similar questions with similar answers earlier on.


A pump's performance has to do with the head pressure and flow rate, not the amount of coolant. Larger diameter tubes in rads, in your example, have lower liquid flow restriction and this helps increase the loop flow rate vs rads with thinner tubes. Please don't get confused here.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> A pump's performance has to do with the head pressure and flow rate, not the amount of coolant. Larger diameter tubes in rads, in your example, have lower liquid flow restriction and this helps increase the loop flow rate vs rads with thinner tubes. Please don't get confused here.


The flow rate is the volume of fluid. The lower the flow rate, the less volume the pump will move. Don't split hairs. Also the volume of the system will affect the pressure, especially the diameter of the tubes.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> The flow rate is the volume of fluid. The lower the flow rate, the less volume the pump will move. Don't split hairs. Also the volume of the system will affect the pressure, especially the diameter of the tubes.


Splitting what hairs? You were saying that larger diameter tubes would reduce flow, and that a large volume would be bad for a pump. Then you say flow rate is volume and a large flow rate is good. Make up your mind.

An 86mm thick Alphacool Monsta radiator, say 240mm in length, has lower restriction to liquid flow compared to a 26mm thick EK SE or a 30mm thick Alphacool ST30 rad of the same size despite the Monsta rad occupying ~3x as much fluid. A pump would thus pump out coolant at a higher flow rate in a loop with the Monsta rad, compared to the other two. Similarly, a 30mm thick HWLabs Nemesis GTS will have a higher restriction to liquid flow than the aforementioned 26mm EK SE and 30mm Alphacool ST30 rads, because the Nemesis GTS has thinner diameter tubes. Here the total volume of coolant in the Nemesis GTS is less than the other two, but also has less flow rate.


----------



## iBruce

If all that's true these new HWL MP rads should be a walk in the park for a single D5.

Wait, what thread is this? Who turned the lights out? AIOs, NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO


----------



## X-PREDATOR

guys were going way overboard here...best bet for modding aio pumps is stick to a 240mm 30mm rad or highest 360 at 30mm thick..dont want to over work the poore thing..but all in all...it should be able to cope...

no back to business...corsair stuff...


----------



## alayoubi

Thanks guys..


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Pumps are designed to move a particular volume of fluid. If you increase the volume (as in larger rad and larger diameter tubes) you could end up with a feeble flow of fluid. So whether or not it can handle a larger volume would depend on how good the pump is, which is why I brought it up. If you are willing to wade through this huge thread , there are similar questions with similar answers earlier on.
> 
> 
> 
> A pump's performance has to do with the head pressure and flow rate, not the amount of coolant. Larger diameter tubes in rads, in your example, have lower liquid flow restriction and this helps increase the loop flow rate vs rads with thinner tubes. Please don't get confused here.
Click to expand...

He didn't say that. He did said it depends on how good the pump is. I get where he's coming from. AIO pump is not strong like D5 or DDC & they usually work nicely in restrictive loop. When using thicker radiator with bigger tubes, AIO pump may perform poorly.


----------



## alayoubi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> He didn't say that. He did said it depends on how good the pump is. I get where he's coming from. AIO pump is not strong like D5 or DDC & they usually work nicely in restrictive loop. When using thicker radiator with bigger tubes, AIO pump may perform poorly.


Don't worry about the pump it can handle more rad size, more coolant & more pipes length.

Guys,
I got this Rad today from china , its same rad design & thickness of H100 but longer












I am sure its compatible with old models like H50,H60,H70,H80 & H100








But i am not sure about new models H75,H105,H80i,H100i,H80i GT & So because pipes look thicker









I have all of these models right now



What do you think?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alayoubi*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> He didn't say that. He did said it depends on how good the pump is. I get where he's coming from. AIO pump is not strong like D5 or DDC & they usually work nicely in restrictive loop. When using thicker radiator with bigger tubes, AIO pump may perform poorly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry about the pump it can handle more rad size, more coolant & more pipes length.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Guys,
> I got this Rad today from china , its same rad design & thickness of H100 but longer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am sure its compatible with old models like H50,H60,H70,H80 & H100
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But i am not sure about new models H75,H105,H80i,H100i,H80i GT & So because pipes look thicker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have all of these models right now
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?
Click to expand...

How many hydro cooler have you modded with thicker radiator? I admit I didn't keep up to date with Corsair AIO but last time people modded it to make custom loop, the flow pretty weak though. However with that thin radiator, there shouldn't be any problem supposedly.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> He didn't say that. He did said it depends on how good the pump is. I get where he's coming from. AIO pump is not strong like D5 or DDC & they usually work nicely in restrictive loop. When using thicker radiator with bigger tubes, AIO pump may perform poorly.


Doesn't matter what pump it is. I am saying that even the weaker AIO pumps will work better with thicker rads that have bigger tubes than thinner rads with thinner tubes. It's just simple flow dynamics. Anyway, this is all moot given no one mods CLCs and puts in a flow meter to measure flow.


----------



## CannedBullets

https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/4b6xtk/discussion_a_word_of_warning_about_corsair_clc/

Has anyone else seen this thread? I haven't gotten any of the issues mentioned in it


----------



## VSG

That's not really new info, and it's been resolved already. Blame Asetek freely for this though


----------



## GrumpyOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/4b6xtk/discussion_a_word_of_warning_about_corsair_clc/
> 
> Has anyone else seen this thread? I haven't gotten any of the issues mentioned in it


Boy am I glad that both of my AIOs are the GT series.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> He didn't say that. He did said it depends on how good the pump is. I get where he's coming from. AIO pump is not strong like D5 or DDC & they usually work nicely in *restrictive loop*. When using thicker radiator with *bigger tubes*, AIO pump may perform poorly.
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't matter what pump it is. I am saying that even the weaker AIO pumps will work better with thicker rads that have bigger tubes than thinner rads with thinner tubes. It's just simple flow dynamics. Anyway, this is all moot given no one mods CLCs and puts in a flow meter to measure flow.
Click to expand...

geggeg's fluid dynamics explanation is right-on! ... +R









kizwan ... you actually have it exactly backwards unless you meant to word it differently? ... smaller diameter tube is more restrictive *= BAD* no matter the pump, and no pump will work better in a "restrictive loop"







...
AND should I even bring overall "Head Pressure" into the equation, I think not because ... well because ... I'm out









,


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> He didn't say that. He did said it depends on how good the pump is. I get where he's coming from. AIO pump is not strong like D5 or DDC & they usually work nicely in *restrictive loop*. When using thicker radiator with *bigger tubes*, AIO pump may perform poorly.
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't matter what pump it is. I am saying that even the weaker AIO pumps will work better with thicker rads that have bigger tubes than thinner rads with thinner tubes. It's just simple flow dynamics. Anyway, this is all moot given no one mods CLCs and puts in a flow meter to measure flow.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> geggeg's fluid dynamics explanation is right-on! ... +R
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> kizwan ... you actually have it exactly backwards unless you meant to word it differently? ... smaller diameter tube is more restrictive *= BAD* no matter the pump, and no pump will work better in a "restrictive loop"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> AND should I even bring overall "Head Pressure" into the equation, I think not because ... well because ... I'm out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,
Click to expand...

I never said his explanation is wrong though but he misunderstood Mergatroid's earlier post.

Nope, you did not get me (what I'm saying) wrong though. I'm pretty sure this is what I read a couple years ago where the restrictive properties of the Corsair AIO is necessity for the cooler to perform optimally. And I have seen the water flow in bigger tube (this time I'm not referring to the tube in the radiator) & it was very weak. Borrowing Mergatroid's words _"...a feeble flow of fluid..."_. Which was the reason why there's doubt whether Corsair AIO pump can handle thicker rads with bigger tubes. Then again the bigger tubes in the thicker rads seems not big enough to cause concern. Well, if I'm wrong then I'm wrong then. No hard feelings here.


----------



## srialmaster

Actually, after reading this article A LOT more, there's not an issue:

"I think you have a fundamental misunderstanding of how liquid cooling works. Pushing more air through a rad before the water heats up isn't going to cool the water more. when the water heats up, the fans go faster to cool the water. water temp is all that matters in liquid cooling. this is why in every car, the temperature gauge is actually the temperature of your coolant. you're just wasting energy by speeding up the fans before the water temp increases.
if you're hitting 90c you need to focus on your thermal paste, maybe consider delidding, or tone down voltage. increasing fan speed when it isn't actually necessary isn't gonna magically fix your temp issues.
I do agree though you should be able to choose the temp sensor and it's nice to have that functionality if not just for peace of mind."

It seems that you want it to monitor the liquid temperature and not the CPU Temperature for controlling the fans. I know how to put thermal paste on well. It's best with an old credit card too









When I OC my i7-970 with my H100, my max temp reached is 65C.



Also, another user states this:
"While you may be unhappy with the changes I can assure you it's for the better. The coolit pumps have a high failure rate and the 4 fan controller would short out regularly. While the changes and the loss of features sucks Asetek pumps are by far more reliable."


----------



## PanMelas

Add me, too


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Splitting what hairs? You were saying that larger diameter tubes would reduce flow, and that a large volume would be bad for a pump. Then you say flow rate is volume and a large flow rate is good. Make up your mind.
> 
> An 86mm thick Alphacool Monsta radiator, say 240mm in length, has lower restriction to liquid flow compared to a 26mm thick EK SE or a 30mm thick Alphacool ST30 rad of the same size despite the Monsta rad occupying ~3x as much fluid. A pump would thus pump out coolant at a higher flow rate in a loop with the Monsta rad, compared to the other two. Similarly, a 30mm thick HWLabs Nemesis GTS will have a higher restriction to liquid flow than the aforementioned 26mm EK SE and 30mm Alphacool ST30 rads, because the Nemesis GTS has thinner diameter tubes. Here the total volume of coolant in the Nemesis GTS is less than the other two, but also has less flow rate.


I was saying that a little tiny pump would be pretty useless with huge tubes and a large volume rad. What is it you don't understand? Why don't you ask the manufacturers? These questions have been coverd in this thread over the years. The consensus was that once you reach a point on the volume of fluid involved, and the volume of the hoses and rads, then a larger pump would be required. That's why they make different size pumps. I was only pointing out that increasing the workload of such a small pump or increasing the diameter of the tubes and volume of the system can be counter productive. AIO pumps are designed with maximum and minimum flow rates, back pressure and fluid volumes in mind. Putting a pump in a system where any of these is outside the design specs of the pump will reduce the efficiency of the system. The best bet is to contact the manufacturer and ask them what volume their pumps can handle.


----------



## Ragsters

What does everyone think about the newer The Hydro Series H100i v2?


----------



## SyveRson

H100i, 2 years work this month.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i wish all clc units will change one day to use proper brass /copper rads....itll really put them on the top then...


----------



## Tom Brohanks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> What does everyone think about the newer The Hydro Series H100i v2?


I hope it's good because this is what my H100i does.



Before anyone comments, I've mounted it several times now checking over and over to make sure everything is secure. I've had it for four years and I'm thinking something is mechanically wrong with it or the coolant has somehow evaporated.


----------



## VSG

Or your 6700k is in desperate need of a delid plus TIM change internally.


----------



## Tom Brohanks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Or your 6700k is in desperate need of a delid plus TIM change internally.


Perhaps, but it was doing this on my trusty 2500k too. I have an H100i v2 showing up tomorrow so I'll see how it does.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Brohanks*
> 
> Perhaps, but it was doing this on my trusty 2500k too. I have an H100i v2 showing up tomorrow so I'll see how it does.


Let us know when you get it.


----------



## Ragsters

I just wanted to let everyone know that I have had the first AIO Cooler from Corsair (H50) since release week. I think that is almost 6 years ago. The product was so new that the box that it came with did not even have any graphics on it. It was a plain white box. I am still using the cooler today on my sons computer and it is still running like a champ.


----------



## GrumpyOne

^Good to hear, hope my h80 and h110 are as reliable.


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I just wanted to let everyone know that I have had the first AIO Cooler from Corsair (H50) since release week. I think that is almost 6 years ago. The product was so new that the box that it came with did not even have any graphics on it. It was a plain white box. I am still using the cooler today on my sons computer and it is still running like a champ.


Still using my H70, and it's still running solid. Took a little modification to get it work at optimum, but it's still chugging along just fine.


----------



## Tom Brohanks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Let us know when you get it.


Now my load temp is 55C when using CPU-Z stress testing where as in the pic before it was much higher...

Now I just need to figure out how to get Corsair Link to report the H100i v2 fan speed and listen when I command it to switch profiles.


----------



## Tom Brohanks

Figured it out. Need to set Q-fan control to PWM for CPU FAN. I might disable it because my pump is only running at 1950 RPM still.

EDIT, looks like it is on quiet mode. Put it on Performance and it goes up so all is good!


----------



## Tom Brohanks

And now I just realized that Q-fan control is probably why the old H100 wasn't working...However, Corsair Link showed it worked but it may have been a liar.


----------



## RebelHell

I'm new to this particular sub-forum but I thought I'd add my two cents. I've been running an H100i on my 4770K for two years now with no problems. I also had an H90 on my overclocked GTX 780 ti using NZXT's G10 bracket....until yesterday. I was playing some Rise of the Tomb Raider when I heard a noise that was like something was hitting a fan. I exited the game and shutdown quickly. When I pulled the top and side off my case I found water dripping off my GPU onto my PSU. Not a happy moment for me.

It appears everything is okay. The water was dripping from the hoses and never actually got on my card or the MB. The PSU is upside down in that case so it just ran down the side and out of the case. Needless to say I'll be giving them a few days to dry out to be on the safe side. I believe what actually happened was the pump failed. As soon as water stopped moving and with my card under full load the water started to boil off and forced its way through the seals. The water was dripping off the hoses but was actually leaking out of the pump.

I've already sent in an RMA request for the H90 but I've also ordered an H80i to replace it. I know it doesn't cool quite as well but I like the ability to monitor my pump and water temps more easily. I also ordered Corsair's HG10 N780 to pair with it, I was never fully happy with NZXT's solution as it required me to add extra heatsinks (one of which has already fallen off) and it added a slight warp to the PCB. I should have all this in by Tuesday or Wednesday. Until then I guess I'll be doing my computing on my laptop.


----------



## Mergatroid

Wow that really sucks. Close call.


----------



## -red-

After going through 7 fans from Corsair, I am about to give up. There hasn't been a configuration of those fans (SP140L) where they don't exhibit some kind of annoying noise. They have sort of a "rumble" /rattling to them, like the fan isn't spinning parallel to the ground/radiator but moving up and down on its axis as well.

So far, the pair I've got now is the one that shows this phenomenon the less, but as soon as my CPU reaches a 40-41 degrees temperature, the sound is atrocious. I am ground personnel at an airport, so the "wooshing" sound doesn't bother me one bit, but this kind of rumbling does. I've isolated the cause to the fan because when that noise is taking place, as soon as I unplug them, it disappears.

Placing the fans vertically, makes the noise go away too, but if you have the radiator mounted in top position, they will sound awful. Especially at around 1400ish rpm, the fan have an incredibly annoying vibration. Its a real pity as those fan really are excellent performers.

What would be the best alternative to those? The noctua industrial ones or, the EKWB vardar?


----------



## RebelHell

Nothing was damaged by the H90's failure, thankfully. After two trips to Microcenter (where's my [email protected]#% thermal paste?!), and many hours of basically rebuilding the entire rig, everything is working fine. I'm not happy with the hoses on the new i series water coolers. They are WAY too stiff and hard to manipulate. There was no way I was going to get an H80i to go on my video card as the bend radius in any placement available to me was just too much for the hoses. I also couldn't get my H100i (original version) to reach my video card in the Obsidian 250D case. So I ended up buying a Fractal Node 804 (oh no, it's not Corsair!).

I love this new case. It could definitely use a few mm here and there but it worked out. I have the H100i in the front of the left chamber connected to my video card. There is no way to do push pull in this location unless you have a very short video card. My 780 ti is actually touching the fan housing on the front rad and the radiator itself wanted to rub on the screw in the bottom of the case that holds the rubber foot on. The H80i is in the top of the right chamber and connected to my CPU. Wire management in this case is also relatively easy. But it can be a slight pain if you're running your SSD's and an optical drive mounted in the front cover.

I do like the simplicity of the Hydro Series all in one coolers but I think my next build will be getting a custom loop. I feel it will be more robust, be easier to repair and won't cost that much more than using closed loop. Also, it would be nice to keep the most likely components to fail, namely the pump, away from electronic components.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-red-*
> 
> After going through 7 fans from Corsair...
> 
> What would be the best alternative to those? The noctua industrial ones or, the EKWB vardar?


I've never had a problem with the Corsair fans. But if you're looking for something different then you can't go wrong with Noctua. Ugly as sin with their brown rubber mounts, but they are some quiet little buggers. I've never used the EKWB myself, I've heard good things but I'm sure someone can chime in with a more comparative analysis.


----------



## Chaoz

Just got a replacement H100i V2 for my H100i GTX, beacuse the pump borked overnight for some weird reason.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> Just got a replacement H100i V2 for my H100i GTX, beacuse the pump borked overnight for some weird reason.


I feel your pain. Any other damage?


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> I feel your pain. Any other damage?


Nope just a defective pump. Started to rattle really bad.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-red-*
> 
> After going through 7 fans from Corsair, I am about to give up. There hasn't been a configuration of those fans (SP140L) where they don't exhibit some kind of annoying noise. They have sort of a "rumble" /rattling to them, like the fan isn't spinning parallel to the ground/radiator but moving up and down on its axis as well.
> 
> So far, the pair I've got now is the one that shows this phenomenon the less, but as soon as my CPU reaches a 40-41 degrees temperature, the sound is atrocious. I am ground personnel at an airport, so the "wooshing" sound doesn't bother me one bit, but this kind of rumbling does. I've isolated the cause to the fan because when that noise is taking place, as soon as I unplug them, it disappears.
> 
> Placing the fans vertically, makes the noise go away too, but if you have the radiator mounted in top position, they will sound awful. Especially at around 1400ish rpm, the fan have an incredibly annoying vibration. Its a real pity as those fan really are excellent performers.
> 
> What would be the best alternative to those? The noctua industrial ones or, the EKWB vardar?


Wow that really sucks. Close call.
Have you tried mounting them using those rubber mounts? Would that work on a rad? Maybe not. How about rubber washers between the fan and the rad? I have Corsair SP fans I bought from a computer store and I don't notice any noise from them at all. Perhaps it was a bad batch?


----------



## luchog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-red-*
> 
> After going through 7 fans from Corsair, I am about to give up. There hasn't been a configuration of those fans (SP140L) where they don't exhibit some kind of annoying noise. They have sort of a "rumble" /rattling to them, like the fan isn't spinning parallel to the ground/radiator but moving up and down on its axis as well.
> 
> So far, the pair I've got now is the one that shows this phenomenon the less, but as soon as my CPU reaches a 40-41 degrees temperature, the sound is atrocious. I am ground personnel at an airport, so the "wooshing" sound doesn't bother me one bit, but this kind of rumbling does. I've isolated the cause to the fan because when that noise is taking place, as soon as I unplug them, it disappears.
> 
> Placing the fans vertically, makes the noise go away too, but if you have the radiator mounted in top position, they will sound awful. Especially at around 1400ish rpm, the fan have an incredibly annoying vibration. Its a real pity as those fan really are excellent performers.
> 
> What would be the best alternative to those? The noctua industrial ones or, the EKWB vardar?


I found the Corsair fans to be particularly noisy as well.

I upgraded my H70 to a push-pull with Akasa Viper fans. Maybe a hair more noisy than some of the others; but hardly noticeable. And they have excellent static pressure, so they really push a lot of air through. Very happy with them. The bright yellow and black colour scheme certainly doesn't hurt either.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-red-*
> 
> Placing the fans vertically, makes the noise go away too, but if you have the radiator mounted in top position, they will sound awful. Especially at around 1400ish rpm, the fan have an incredibly annoying vibration. Its a real pity as those fan really are excellent performers.
> 
> What would be the best alternative to those? The noctua industrial ones or, the EKWB vardar?


Avoid sleeve bearings, they won't operate as well horizontally. I found the Gentle Typhoon AP14 (amazon) at 900rpm as quiet as the Corsair SP's at 1200rpm, yet temps down 1-2C . So I now have 4 doing a great job on two H105s. I personally don't like the noise of the Noctuas and haven't tried Vardar but I haven't seen those topping Noctuas in any test on radiators. Fractal Venturi is one that I will try soon as I am hearing good things about them from some people on silentpcreview (good source for all things quiet).


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> I'm new to this particular sub-forum but I thought I'd add my two cents. I've been running an H100i on my 4770K for two years now with no problems. I also had an H90 on my overclocked GTX 780 ti using NZXT's G10 bracket....until yesterday. I was playing some Rise of the Tomb Raider when I heard a noise that was like something was hitting a fan. I exited the game and shutdown quickly. When I pulled the top and side off my case I found water dripping off my GPU onto my PSU. Not a happy moment for me.
> .


Sorry to hear that. I'm just glad that nothing got damaged when it happened. I see that you already submitted an RMA for a replacement. If you run into any problem during that RMA process, feel free to send me PM


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-red-*
> 
> What would be the best alternative to those? The noctua industrial ones or, the EKWB vardar?


You should look into the retail version of those SP140L, the SP140 QE. Solid performer also with better acoustics.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Sorry to hear that. I'm just glad that nothing got damaged when it happened. I see that you already submitted an RMA for a replacement. If you run into any problem during that RMA process, feel free to send me PM


So far so good. Already received an RMA and shipped it off this afternoon. I also ended up buying an H80i and Corsair's HG10 bracket to replace the original NZXT install. Couldn't get the H80i to fit the video card because those hoses are entirely too stiff so I moved the H80i to the CPU and my H100i to the GPU. A new Hydro Series product for GPU's with the hoses leaving the block at an angle might not be a bad idea. Could be useful for some CPU installs too.

tl;dr
Everything is back up and seems to be working great!


----------



## X-PREDATOR

glad to hear its sorted, GO corsair go go go...


----------



## Fishinfan

I am upgrading this week or next to intel, but I lost the intel braket to my corsair hydro h110. I have already looked at ebay. Does anyone know where I can buy another one?


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fishinfan*
> 
> I am upgrading this week or next to intel, but I lost the intel braket to my corsair hydro h110. I have already looked at ebay. Does anyone know where I can buy another one?


Corsair sells them on their website for $10.

http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-h40-h50-h55-h70-h90-h110-intel-mounting-bracket-kit


----------



## navjack27

what are good replacment fans for the corsair h80i gt? are there quiet thin fans just so there is less room taken up by where i have it mounted? if not, i'm just assuming a nice 120mm noctua


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navjack27*
> 
> what are good replacment fans for the corsair h80i gt? are there quiet thin fans just so there is less room taken up by where i have it mounted? if not, i'm just assuming a nice 120mm noctua


Silverstone has some decent 15mm thick fans but they will be outperformed by the stock fans on your h80i v2 even. Go for good 25mm thick fans like the EK Vardar, Gentle Typhoon, Phanteks PH-F140MP etc- not the Noctua fans.


----------



## Fishinfan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Corsair sells them on their website for $10.
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-h40-h50-h55-h70-h90-h110-intel-mounting-bracket-kit


Thanks, I just found out that I need the all of the intel mounting hardware, not just the bracket. Does corsair sell the retention ring and the intel mounting screws also?


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fishinfan*
> 
> Thanks, I just found out that I need the all of the intel mounting hardware, not just the bracket. Does corsair sell the retention ring and the intel mounting screws also?


That should be the whole kit with screws and backplate. Might want to contact Corsair just to be on the safe side.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

contact corsair joseph from here on ocn, hell sort this out asap..

http://www.overclock.net/u/349064/corsair-joseph


----------



## Dhiru

Hi Guys,

I am trying to salvage a Corsair H80 which failed on me. I am currently using it to power my budget used parts build and it appears that the fan controller is dead. Yesterday, due to a failed overclock, the PC was rebooting immediately after post and this appears to have killed the fan controller on the H80 pump, due to which one fan doesn't spin at all and the other fan is running at max all the time and the profile setting doesn't do anything. The pump appears to be functioning and the temperatures appear to the normal (I connected the non working fan to a motherboard header).

I was thinking of 2 ways to salvage this H80. What do you suggest will be the best thing to do?

1. Connect the pump directly to the molex connector from the PSU and run the fans off the motherboard headers. This way, I will be able to control the fan speed to reduce the noise and let the faulty controller continue to handle the pump. However, the BIOS reports 4000RPM on the pump which is ridiculous and I suspect it maybe because of wrong reading from the faulty fan controller on the pump.

2. I have checked online and it appears that H80 has a controller PCB which connects to a thermal sensor and the 3 pin connector to power the actual pump. I was thinking of getting rid of the faulty controller PCB and hooking up the 3 pin pump connector directly to a motherboard header. This way, I can ensure that the faulty controller doesn't fail totally, rendering the pump useless and causing potential thermal throttling. The fans will continue to run on motherboard headers with the ability to control their speed. I don't care about the fancy Corsair Link features that the PCB controller offers, since I use Linux and there is no good way of controlling the fans from it.



What do you suggest would be the best way to deal with this situation? I can't RMA the unit since I live outside US and the price of shipping the item both ways will fetch me a new cooler. My build is currently based on salvaged parts which are leftover from my previous build. I don't really want to spend money on getting a new cooler.

Thanks..


----------



## Chaoz

I opened up a ticket on the Corsair Service website.
They sent me a label to ship it to them in The Netherlands. Seeing as I couldn't use the label I shipped it with DHL. I RMA'd my Corsair H70 directly to Corsair in The Netherlands shipping it with DHL was around €10.
A week later I received a brand new H75. Hydro coolers have 5 years of warranty, so use it.


----------



## Fishinfan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> That should be the whole kit with screws and backplate. Might want to contact Corsair just to be on the safe side.


I found the part on newegg, and it's the whole kit with screws and backplate.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fishinfan*
> 
> I found the part on newegg, and it's the whole kit with screws and backplate.


I'm glad you found what you needed.


----------



## cms239

Hi

I currently have a Corsair Air 240 with a H100i cooling the cpu (I7-5820). However I now want to cool the GPU (gtx 980ti) but have no room for an aditional cooler. I have seen Air 240 rigs where they fitted two 120mm rads in the same place as the 240.

So I was wondering how the system would fare with two H55s?


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cms239*
> 
> Hi
> 
> I currently have a Corsair Air 240 with a H100i cooling the cpu (I7-5820). However I now want to cool the GPU (gtx 980ti) but have no room for an aditional cooler. I have seen Air 240 rigs where they fitted two 120mm rads in the same place as the 240.
> 
> So I was wondering how the system would fare with two H55s?


I think you'd fare just as well if not better with decent air cooling solutions.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Mod the case to accomodate the needs..or get another aio pump and do a aio cpu.gpu mod..


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cms239*
> 
> Hi
> 
> I currently have a Corsair Air 240 with a H100i cooling the cpu (I7-5820). However I now want to cool the GPU (gtx 980ti) but have no room for an aditional cooler. I have seen Air 240 rigs where they fitted two 120mm rads in the same place as the 240.
> 
> So I was wondering how the system would fare with two H55s?


My experience is from moving from an H75 to an H105.. and then the 980Ti to watercooled:
- The noise for your CPU will go up moving from the H100i to an H55 (I was very happy moving the CPU from the H75 to an H105)
- The noise and temps for your GPU will go down. So I expect you end up quite a bit quieter. Especially if you use the new thermal headroom that watercooling will deliver, fans won't have to go that quick.

The quietest and cheapest option would probably be to use the H100 for the GPU, then aircool the processor.

If you want to go watercooled all the way, I would also look at using two H75s (see also http://www.corsair.com/en-us/blog/2014/november/dennis_build_log) instead of H55s.

With ITX I think it's possible to mount one at top/front and one at the front. Like the H80i here http://www.pcper.com/files/imagecache/article_max_width/review/2014-08-14/IMG_9504.JPG


----------



## cms239

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> Mod the case to accomodate the needs..or get another aio pump and do a aio cpu.gpu mod..


Sorry, do not know what that means


----------



## cms239

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> With ITX I think it's possible to mount one at top/front and one at the front. Like the H80i here http://www.pcper.com/files/imagecache/article_max_width/review/2014-08-14/IMG_9504.JPG


My mobo is mATX


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cms239*
> 
> My mobo is mATX


Gotcha







Disregard that line.
- Quietest: H100i for GPU + aircool the CPU
- Just watercooled: 2xH75 staggered in front (1 push/ pull for GPU, 1 pull for CPU)
- Another option as you've seen on the corsair Forum: add H55 on the side (exhaust - will draw air from through grommets and hdd drive bay)[/quote]


----------



## velocityx

Hey Guys

So i'm having a bit of a problem with my Corsair H110i GT cooler.

This is my setup below. I use a lot of corsair gear but this fan issue is a first for me


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Since getting my H110i im having a bit of an issue with one of the fans.

Between 700-1100 RPM it emits this weird clicking noise that doesnt go away unless I speed up the fan over 1200rpm or keep it at 600rpm. The photo below is right after installation so a bit messy with the cabling however I dont have any cables hitting the fan blades right now.

I recorded a video with my phone so you guys can judge for yourself.

Is the fan faulty? @Corsair Joseph @CorsairGeorge

The video goes through me changing RPM from 500 to 1000 and back to 500 at the end. Close to the end theres also the sound of my cat walking around ( it sounds like car blinkers, ignore that)

https://youtu.be/r-J_HabxpdU


----------



## cms239

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> Gotcha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Disregard that line.
> - Quietest: H100i for GPU + aircool the CPU
> - Just watercooled: 2xH75 staggered in front (1 push/ pull for GPU, 1 pull for CPU)
> - Another option as you've seen on the corsair Forum: add H55 on the side (exhaust - will draw air from through grommets and hdd drive bay)


H55 for the CPU or GPU?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> Hey Guys
> 
> So i'm having a bit of a problem with my Corsair H110i GT cooler.
> 
> This is my setup below. I use a lot of corsair gear but this fan issue is a first for me
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since getting my H110i im having a bit of an issue with one of the fans.
> 
> Between 700-1100 RPM it emits this weird clicking noise that doesnt go away unless I speed up the fan over 1200rpm or keep it at 600rpm. The photo below is right after installation so a bit messy with the cabling however I dont have any cables hitting the fan blades right now.
> 
> I recorded a video with my phone so you guys can judge for yourself.
> 
> Is the fan faulty? @Corsair Joseph @CorsairGeorge
> 
> The video goes through me changing RPM from 500 to 1000 and back to 500 at the end. Close to the end theres also the sound of my cat walking around ( it sounds like car blinkers, ignore that)
> 
> https://youtu.be/r-J_HabxpdU


dude..no offense..but pllleeeaaassseee tidy up your cables..like behind the mobo..tighter..really tighter..
YOUR OWN PIC SHOWS HOW CABLES ARE IN MM OF CONTACT WITH THE FANS..when these fans are used in that position they tend to sag..the blades/the hub moves up an down/in out like...
This is either a cable hitting an you not seing it..or...the fans in pull config...their hitting against the edges of the rad itself....get some plastic washers and use them between the fan and rad..use atleast 2-3 on each bolt..use longer bolts then also..35mm long ones


----------



## velocityx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> dude..no offense..but pllleeeaaassseee tidy up your cables..like behind the mobo..tighter..really tighter..
> YOUR OWN PIC SHOWS HOW CABLES ARE IN MM OF CONTACT WITH THE FANS..when these fans are used in that position they tend to sag..the blades/the hub moves up an down/in out like...
> This is either a cable hitting an you not seing it..or...the fans in pull config...their hitting against the edges of the rad itself....get some plastic washers and use them between the fan and rad..use atleast 2-3 on each bolt..use longer bolts then also..35mm long ones


no offense taken, but dude, no offense, read the whole post. i wrote that the photo is right after install so its messy. and like i said i dont have any cables there right now. The fan has clear route. Besides, if it was a cable it would rattle all the time and not when in certain RPM of the fans.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *velocityx*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Guys
> 
> So i'm having a bit of a problem with my Corsair H110i GT cooler.
> 
> This is my setup below. I use a lot of corsair gear but this fan issue is a first for me
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since getting my H110i im having a bit of an issue with one of the fans.
> 
> Between 700-1100 RPM it emits this weird clicking noise that doesnt go away unless I speed up the fan over 1200rpm or keep it at 600rpm. The photo below is right after installation so a bit messy with the cabling however I dont have any cables hitting the fan blades right now.
> 
> 
> 
> I recorded a video with my phone so you guys can judge for yourself.
> 
> Is the fan faulty? @Corsair Joseph @CorsairGeorge
> 
> The video goes through me changing RPM from 500 to 1000 and back to 500 at the end. Close to the end theres also the sound of my cat walking around ( it sounds like car blinkers, ignore that)
> 
> https://youtu.be/r-J_HabxpdU


It does sound like its hitting something. If you have made sure that the fan blades are clear of hitting any wires of some sort, then it is most likely the fan producing that noise in that particular rpm range. We can always send you replacement fans if that's really the case.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

I did elaborate: qoute-
The fans hitting against the rad itself..try just a push config..not p.pull...


----------



## henrygale

My H100i v1 started acting up today and I'm not sure why it is happening.

When my computer is on, the logo light blinks/flashes on and off rapidly. When the logo blinks, I think the fans are not getting power because I hear them ramp up and down with the blinking.

Also another problem that started today is that when the two fans (connected using the fan power adapter cables) are plugged into the right slot, only one fan works but when I plug the cable into the left slot, both fans work.

In Corsair Link, I do not see the fans and the pump shows it running at 600.

Here are two videos of whats happening. Sorry about the lighting, I wanted the blinking logo to show clearly.
https://vid.me/xwg1
https://vid.me/ovkj

Thank you for any help.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

ouch thats not good at all....get in touch with corsiar joseph asap....hey need to see this


----------



## cms239

Fitted HG10 and H55 to my 980ti.

Replaced the exiting HG10 fan with a quieter one that can be properly controlled. Idle now 23deg, load, 58deg


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cms239*
> 
> Fitted HG10 and H55 to my 980ti.
> 
> Replaced the exiting HG10 fan with a quieter one that can be properly controlled. Idle now 23deg, load, 58deg


Nice - did it also get more quiet?


----------



## cms239

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> Nice - did it also get more quiet?


Yes however I spoke too soon. For some reason every time I reboot I the fan on the HG10 is at full speed again and have to go into MSI afterburner and mess about.

So I have downloaded SpeedFan and thinking I will feed the fan from a mobo header. Then, using SpeedFan, I will set it up to take the temp reading from the GPU and control the fan that way


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cms239*
> 
> Yes however I spoke too soon. For some reason every time I reboot I the fan on the HG10 is at full speed again and have to go into MSI afterburner and mess about.
> 
> So I have downloaded SpeedFan and thinking I will feed the fan from a mobo header. Then, using SpeedFan, I will set it up to take the temp reading from the GPU and control the fan that way


Solder it to the 4 pin from the aftermarket cooler fans.


----------



## cms239

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> Solder it to the 4 pin from the aftermarket cooler fans.


Not sure I understand?


----------



## blackhole2013

My H90 keeps my i7 6700k at 4.8 ghz 1.36v never passes 75c at stress test I love it ..


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cms239*
> 
> Not sure I understand?



This is what I meant. This connector. But seeing as it's a blower fan, it should have that already.

So try to go in MSI afterburner and set a custom fan curve.


This is the fan curve that I'm using and it only goes into full jet-engine mode when I'm gaming and the temps reach 70°C. Seeing as you're using a Hydro cooler you can make a different fan curve.


----------



## cms239

Ok, I have now updated my rig.

I have added a HG10 and H55 water cooling to the 980ti. I put the rad in the right compartment, removed the 3.5" HD bay and have a temp fan (New one on order) exhausting the heat from the rad.

To get round the control of the fan on the HG10 and make sure the rad run runs according to the GPU temp I installed Speedfan.

The GPU now runs 26 deg idle and 60deg load

http://s76.photobucket.com/user/1st_petrolhead/media/Forum Links/DSCF9112.jpg.html

http://s76.photobucket.com/user/1st_petrolhead/media/Forum Links/DSCF9110.jpg.html

http://s76.photobucket.com/user/1st_petrolhead/media/Forum Links/DSCF9111.jpg.html

http://s76.photobucket.com/user/1st_petrolhead/media/Forum Links/speed 4.jpg.html


----------



## henrygale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> ouch thats not good at all....get in touch with corsiar joseph asap....hey need to see this


Thanks X-PREDATOR, I'll check with @Corsair Joseph

Hi Joseph, could you take a look at my earlier post (quoted below). Any ideas what could have caused this or how to fix?

Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *henrygale*
> 
> My H100i v1 started acting up today and I'm not sure why it is happening.
> 
> When my computer is on, the logo light blinks/flashes on and off rapidly. When the logo blinks, I think the fans are not getting power because I hear them ramp up and down with the blinking.
> 
> Also another problem that started today is that when the two fans (connected using the fan power adapter cables) are plugged into the right slot, only one fan works but when I plug the cable into the left slot, both fans work.
> 
> In Corsair Link, I do not see the fans and the pump shows it running at 600.
> 
> Here are two videos of whats happening. Sorry about the lighting, I wanted the blinking logo to show clearly.
> https://vid.me/xwg1
> https://vid.me/ovkj
> 
> Thank you for any help.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

send him a pm hell respond quicker then, he is a very busy dude..trust me..but his your best ever you can ask for service...


----------



## kolo7127

I thought I'd share this with you guys here. I managed to cram my H105 and my H75 into this 380T. Sorry for the bad photo's and dust. I meed to bring it in and clean it out.







You can check out the build further if you's like https://pcpartpicker.com/b/W9BPxr


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *henrygale*
> 
> Thanks X-PREDATOR, I'll check with @Corsair Joseph
> 
> Hi Joseph, could you take a look at my earlier post (quoted below). Any ideas what could have caused this or how to fix?
> 
> Thanks!


Yeah, there's definitely something going on with that pump head. The LED blinking issue alone is already a red flag to me. Submit an RMA request and get that unit replaced.. based on those videos, I say its faulty LED and fan controller.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kolo7127*
> 
> I thought I'd share this with you guys here. I managed to cram my H105 and my H75 into this 380T. Sorry for the bad photo's and dust. I meed to bring it in and clean it out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can check out the build further if you's like https://pcpartpicker.com/b/W9BPxr[/URL
> 
> 
> ]


Wow! despite the limited space in that case, you've managed to fit both coolers without cluttering the cables.


----------



## jprovido

spray painted the faceplate to white. is my warranty voided? lol


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Hi everyone, i'm thinking about leaning towards water cooling for my future new build and i was aiming at the Corsair H100i V2, are there any issues with the new versions? I know things can happen such as leaks and pump failure but figured i would ask. Is the fail rate low on these coolers?


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkansaswoman22*
> 
> Hi everyone, i'm thinking about leaning towards water cooling for my future new build and i was aiming at the Corsair H100i V2, are there any issues with the new versions? I know things can happen such as leaks and pump failure but figured i would ask. Is the fail rate low on these coolers?


I had a H100i GTX where the pump failed for no reason. And had it swapped for a H100i v2. It's quite good. Cools a bit better aswell, for some reason.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Here is my 780T and 3 AIO..











H11i5 on the cpu and dual h105 on the gpu's..


----------



## toncij

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Here is my 780T and 3 AIO..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> H11i5 on the cpu and dual h105 on the gpu's..


Did you have to mod the case? I'm looking to build the same setup but on eATX and X99...


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toncij*
> 
> Did you have to mod the case? I'm looking to build the same setup but on eATX and X99...


Nothing modded at all, but make sure your PSU isn't huge like mine ( Evga 1300 G2 ).. the cables block the radiator at first time but with some force it fit just fine


----------



## GrumpyOne

^Nice







Here I thought my H80i GT was overkill for my GPU


----------



## toncij

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Dark*
> 
> Nothing modded at all, but make sure your PSU isn't huge like mine ( Evga 1300 G2 ).. the cables block the radiator at first time but with some force it fit just fine


It is, a Corsair AX1500.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toncij*
> 
> It is, a Corsair AX1500.


For reference, the EVGA 1300 G2 is 200 mm long. That Corsair AX1500 is 225 mm. you might want to think about a smaller PSU.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrumpyOne*
> 
> ^Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I thought my H80i GT was overkill for my GPU


Its not at all,.. the bigger rad the lower fan's needed to keep it nice and cold









my rad fan's at 800rpm and barely break 40c on the top card ( the bottom is restricted for the Airflow ), and the second card stay under 36c as the rad on the front
Quote:


> For reference, the EVGA 1300 G2 is 200 mm long. That Corsair AX1500 is 225 mm. you might want to think about a smaller PSU.


+1, if the PSU is more than 200mm its impossible to fit the H105 on the bottom.. mine barely fit and i force the cable's to fit the radiator


----------



## toncij

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> For reference, the EVGA 1300 G2 is 200 mm long. That Corsair AX1500 is 225 mm. you might want to think about a smaller PSU.


Ili think about larger case


----------



## RebelHell

So if I may ask, why does someone need a 1300 or 1500 Watt PSU? I've never been able to get my AX860i to even 50% load with my setup (4770K @ 4.5, 780 ti OC, 2xAIO water coolers, 12 case fans total, CC lighting, 2xHDD, 2xSSD, and a BluRay Burner). So even with CrossFire/SLI, you'll pull maybe 650 Watts?


----------



## toncij

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> So if I may ask, why does someone need a 1300 or 1500 Watt PSU? I've never been able to get my AX860i to even 50% load with my setup (4770K @ 4.5, 780 ti OC, 2xAIO water coolers, 12 case fans total, CC lighting, 2xHDD, 2xSSD, and a BluRay Burner). So even with CrossFire/SLI, you'll pull maybe 650 Watts?


1. I'm occasionally using 4-6 GPUs for computing
2. I'm using two Intel PCIE SSDs
3. I'm using a 5960X in that machine. Loaded the usage goes north of 220W overclocked..
4. When not at that load, 1500W lives easily through power AC oscillations.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toncij*
> 
> 1. I'm occasionally using 4-6 GPUs for computing
> 2. I'm using two Intel PCIE SSDs
> 3. I'm using a 5960X in that machine. Loaded the usage goes north of 220W overclocked..
> 4. When not at that load, 1500W lives easily through power AC oscillations.


I guess that would do it...


----------



## toncij

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> I guess that would do it...


Overclocked it is even very close to not being enough.


----------



## yorfi86

Can I join?


----------



## toncij

Is there a reason why would one use a circular pump and block instead of the much easier to mount rectangular one?


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toncij*
> 
> Is there a reason why would one use a circular pump and block instead of the much easier to mount rectangular one?


Hey now.... Pi R squares. Not to mention they sure are purdy!


----------



## hidethecookies

-deleted


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toncij*
> 
> Is there a reason why would one use a circular pump and block instead of the much easier to mount rectangular one?


I have used both and found both easy to install.


----------



## toncij

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I have used both and found both easy to install.


Well, the one on 110 I used before was ****ty to install - you had to put the pump on the CPU, rotate it to match the clamp ring, while holding it all correctly not to mess the thermal paste and then screw 4 points in... argh... Rotating pump to match the ring is a pain. The square one just sits on and you screw it in. Done.


----------



## Mergatroid

I'm sorry you had problems with it. I personally found it quite easy. Each to his own though.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toncij*
> 
> Well, the one on 110 I used before was ****ty to install - you had to put the pump on the CPU, rotate it to match the clamp ring, while holding it all correctly not to mess the thermal paste and then screw 4 points in... argh... Rotating pump to match the ring is a pain. The square one just sits on and you screw it in. Done.


They have almost exactly the same mounting procedure. The H110 comes with a plastic ring clip to hold the retention ring in place like all the other round block designs so you don't have to mess around with it. Did yours not come with one or something?


----------



## toncij

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> They have almost exactly the same mounting procedure. The H110 comes with a plastic ring clip to hold the retention ring in place like all the other round block designs so you don't have to mess around with it. Did yours not come with one or something?


It is not the same. As I've said: the round 110 I have does come with a retention ring which you need to match perfectly when you put it under the stand-off ring. You need to match it while you hold and screw it in. H115i (renamed 110GTX I think) is simply put down and screw in. That's a bit easier, especially in a confined space you sometimes have.


----------



## r_aquarii

can someone tell me the diff between h80i v2 and h80i GT?


----------



## DiceAir

Hi there

I have a question. I can get 2x cougar vortex pwm 120mm fans for free to replace the stock fans on my h100i. I already have 3 of them in front of my case and they whisper quiet so would like to know if it's even worth replacing them.

The cougar vortex fans is currently installed in another pc and I will then be swapping the fans on that case with the stock h100i fans. So do you guys think it's worth it or waste of time? Will the h100i fan controller be able to handle the cougar vortex fans. Here is a link to the fans

http://cougargaming.com/products/fans/vortex_pwm.html

Also can someone tell me why I see 0 difference running my fans on lowest speed and 100% speed when stress testing my system with aida64. My max temps is about 75-80C when stress testing with aida64. My cpu is a 4790k @4.6GHZ 1.23V.


----------



## nowcontrol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Also can someone tell me why I see 0 difference running my fans on lowest speed and 100% speed when stress testing my system with aida64. My max temps is about 75-80C when stress testing with aida64. My cpu is a 4790k @4.6GHZ 1.23V.


Because the water in the AIO is probably already as close to ambient temps as it's going to get just by the gentle breeze of the lowest speed and no amount of fan blasting will make it any colder than ambient temp.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> I have a question. I can get 2x cougar vortex pwm 120mm fans for free to replace the stock fans on my h100i. I already have 3 of them in front of my case and they whisper quiet so would like to know if it's even worth replacing them.
> 
> The cougar vortex fans is currently installed in another pc and I will then be swapping the fans on that case with the stock h100i fans. So do you guys think it's worth it or waste of time? Will the h100i fan controller be able to handle the cougar vortex fans. Here is a link to the fans
> 
> http://cougargaming.com/products/fans/vortex_pwm.html
> 
> Also can someone tell me why I see 0 difference running my fans on lowest speed and 100% speed when stress testing my system with aida64. My max temps is about 75-80C when stress testing with aida64. My cpu is a 4790k @4.6GHZ 1.23V.


I've never seen test where cougar fans performed better than corsair fans, so see if you can find a test. Other than that.. why not just try since they are free!
I find it really odd that you wouldn't see a difference on different fan speeds - I've looked at the efficiency for a 30mm, 360 rad and its performance looks like this:

750rpm: 10C rise for every 193W
1300rpm : 10C rise for every 291W (+50%)
1850rpm: + 10C for every 362W (+87%)

It's like your fan control isn't working...or the airflow is too restricted...because any rad's performance is strongly dependent on airflow and stock corsair fans certainly are quite effective and always cooled better on higer RPMs.


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Also can someone tell me why I see 0 difference running my fans on lowest speed and 100% speed when stress testing my system with aida64. My max temps is about 75-80C when stress testing with aida64. My cpu is a 4790k @4.6GHZ 1.23V.


Well I know on custom loops temps scale with air flow and water flow. It looks like you have already maxed out air flow performance for the given water flow rate if that makes any sense. Thanks to Martins tests we know most CLC's have horrible water pumps like less than .25gph restriction free









. That kinda flow would even make high end custom loops run hot after you factor in the restriction of all components.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> Well I know on custom loops temps scale with air flow and water flow. It looks like you have already maxed out air flow performance for the given water flow rate if that makes any sense. Thanks to Martins tests we know most CLC's have horrible water pumps like less than .25gph restriction free
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . That kinda flow would even make high end custom loops run hot after you factor in the restriction of all components.


Ok nice to know. I suppose the only way to get lower temps now is delidding,


----------



## hidethecookies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Ok nice to know. I suppose the only way to get lower temps now is delidding,


One thing you failed to mention and I forgot to ask is what are your ambient temps when testing?


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hidethecookies*
> 
> One thing you failed to mention and I forgot to ask is what are your ambient temps when testing?


Ambient temps is about 20C to 25C when testing. Like I said maybe a delid will be the only way or even running it directly on the die will be even better but not going to do that. Actually pretty happy with my temps so far. When playing normal games it hovers 70C max when loading in some games but normal gameplay it's 60C max on low speed. Maybe I need a better aio cooler or maybe even Custom watercooling to make a difference. I know 4790k still runs hot so I think I maxing out my cooling potential with the settings I have.

temps now is about 25C idle. During the night my idle temps was as low as 20C
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> I've never seen test where cougar fans performed better than corsair fans, so see if you can find a test. Other than that.. why not just try since they are free!
> I find it really odd that you wouldn't see a difference on different fan speeds - I've looked at the efficiency for a 30mm, 360 rad and its performance looks like this:
> 
> 750rpm: 10C rise for every 193W
> 1300rpm : 10C rise for every 291W (+50%)
> 1850rpm: + 10C for every 362W (+87%)
> 
> It's like your fan control isn't working...or the airflow is too restricted...because any rad's performance is strongly dependent on airflow and stock corsair fans certainly are quite effective and always cooled better on higer RPMs.


My fan controller do work as I can hear them going at full blast


----------



## hhuey5

I got the h110i GTX onsale before they renamed it to h115i

I hope to assemble it w Nocturna 3000 RPM fans this year when I build 6950x system
I like to see how cool the temps will be compared to the supplied fans that go at 2000rpm

I have the old h110 and those fans run at 1500 rpm


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Also can someone tell me why I see 0 difference running my fans on lowest speed and 100% speed when stress testing my system with aida64. My max temps is about 75-80C when stress testing with aida64. My cpu is a 4790k @4.6GHZ 1.23V.


I have a 4770K @ 4.4 Ghz with 1.28V (it's a crappy overclocker). With my H80i V2 and a single fan I got a peak temp of 77 C under load (Aida 64) with an ambient temp of 19 C. Fan speeds have little effect, maybe ~5 C. Haswell just runs hot. I'm working on a full custom loop though. Maybe that'll help a bit.

On a somewhat unrelated topic...When adjusting my fan speed to 100% via Link, the RPM's fluctuate up and down like crazy. Sounds like I'm pulsing a blender. Anyone else experience this?


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> My fan controller do work as I can hear them going at full blast


Just running past all the points here (and acknowledging hidethecookes comment re waterflow)... I was thinking bad CPU contact but that's unlikely since your idle temps are about what to expect.
The hitting the capacity idea seems off...

I'm cooling a 275W 980Ti using an H105.. which is more than the 4790K will dissipate. So with that I can't really imagine you hit the limits of an H100i, unless you got a unit that is just not 100%, clogged up somewhere. Anandtech in their first reviews of the 4790 hit [email protected] 1.25V..that's 170W on an H80i with a temp of 79C (very similar to what Rebelhell mentioned)... so you should hitting better temps than that in your setup.

Sorry it's not an answer but I suspect something is not working as it should, rather than the limit of the cooler.

Btw my 4690K when at 1.3V/4.8Ghz (also with H105) probably uses about 180W...and it hits 72C under 100% load using XTU cpu stress test (that's at 24C ambient, fans at 1300rpm).


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> ...When adjusting my fan speed to 100% via Link, the RPM's fluctuate up and down like crazy. Sounds like I'm pulsing a blender. Anyone else experience this?


Okay, so I couldn't reproduce this problem so NM.

However I do have an issue with Link returning from sleep. I posted this question in the Corsair forum and never received a response. When I wake my computer from sleep both my H100i and my H80i V2 go to default settings (white LED, quiet fan and pump speeds) as best as I can tell. Changes in the software doesn't result in fan speed changes and all the numbers in Link appear fixed. If I stop a fan by hand (DON'T do that) the software just keeps pretending everything is running normally. Even the PSU usage on my AX860i just shows a steady 68W. I can load the CPU and the GPU and it will stay reading 68W until I do full restart. Then it all works normally again.

This bothers me greatly as I have LINK set to shutdown my computer if a fan or pump fails. At this point if my pump and fans all failed after waking from sleep my computer will just keep going until thermal shutdown because LINK wouldn't have a clue.

Anyone else having this issue? Link Version 4.2.2.27


----------



## Speedster159

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedster159*
> 
> Alright so I'm redoing my overclock and my target is 4.5Ghz. I'm already there just stabilizing but my temperatures have finally hit 95c with IBT! What more when I do my 24hr Prime.
> 
> I'm running 1.365v - 1.370v to the CPU measured with a DMM at the back of the board. UEFI Settings is fixed voltage at 1.370 at LLC Level 2 so everything is onspec. H100i is running Push-Pull with SP120 PWM HP's pulling and SP120L's pushing at full tilt, with an open case and no restrictions.
> 
> 
> 
> Are my temperatures normal for an H100i?
> 
> *EDIT:* Ambients are 34.4c - 35.2c according to my Sentry LX with probes on the front intake fans. 30c (RF 35c) according to Accuweather.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedster159*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Speedster159*
> 
> Alright so I'm redoing my overclock and my target is 4.5Ghz. I'm already there just stabilizing but my temperatures have finally hit 95c with IBT! What more when I do my 24hr Prime.
> 
> I'm running 1.365v - 1.370v to the CPU measured with a DMM at the back of the board. UEFI Settings is fixed voltage at 1.370 at LLC Level 2 so everything is onspec. H100i is running Push-Pull with SP120 PWM HP's pulling and SP120L's pushing at full tilt, with an open case and no restrictions.
> 
> 
> 
> Are my temperatures normal for an H100i?
> 
> *EDIT:* Ambients are 34.4c - 35.2c according to my Sentry LX with probes on the front intake fans. 30c (RF 35c) according to Accuweather.
Click to expand...

In that high ambient temp, it's not surprising to see your CPU running at that high core temperature when stress test. Delided?


----------



## DiceAir

I'm thinking of maybe getting a corsair h115i to go with my 4790k. Although my temps is not bad will it be a worthwhile upgrade or will I be wasting my money? like i said beore instres test my cpu temps is 70-75C max with it going slightly to 80C for half a second and then down again so i don't know if the h115i is worth the premium. I'm also looking at the h100i v2 and h110i.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I'm thinking of maybe getting a corsair h115i to go with my 4790k. Although my temps is not bad will it be a worthwhile upgrade or will I be wasting my money? like i said beore instres test my cpu temps is 70-75C max with it going slightly to 80C for half a second and then down again so i don't know if the h115i is worth the premium. I'm also looking at the h100i v2 and h110i.


If you are not currently using a water cooler but just a stock cooler, you should see up to a 20c drop in temps. If you are already using a water-cooled, you will likely see something like a 5c change in temps depending on how good your current cooler is. If you are using a good quality air cooler you could see a 5c or more drop in temps. If you are using a top end air cooler currently, you may only see a few degrees difference.
Personally I like water coolers not just for their cooling, but I like the way they mount and how they leave so much space on the motherboard.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> If you are not currently using a water cooler but just a stock cooler, you should see up to a 20c drop in temps. If you are already using a water-cooled, you will likely see something like a 5c change in temps depending on how good your current cooler is. If you are using a good quality air cooler you could see a 5c or more drop in temps. If you are using a top end air cooler currently, you may only see a few degrees difference.
> Personally I like water coolers not just for their cooling, but I like the way they mount and how they leave so much space on the motherboard.


Currently on h100i. Like I said before on earlier posts having my fans on 100% and lowest doesn't affect cooling and don't know why. Maybe the cooler doesn't make 100% proper contact with the cpu and thus my idle temps is ok and very low but load temps is somewhat high


----------



## Awsan

Can this be saved by any means? (Sandpaper?)


----------



## toncij

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Currently on h100i. Like I said before on earlier posts having my fans on 100% and lowest doesn't affect cooling and don't know why. Maybe the cooler doesn't make 100% proper contact with the cpu and thus my idle temps is ok and very low but load temps is somewhat high


You maybe don't need more airflow/pressure over what you have? Probably. My H115i is similar. Also, compared to H110 H115i is at idle similar, but at load it's better for about 5-10ºC for 5960X at 4.4-4.5GHz.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awsan*
> 
> Can this be saved by any means? (Sandpaper?)


You should be able to. Just google the directions for lapping a CPU heatsink. You'll need various sandpaper grits of wet/dry from 400 up to at least 1500 or 2000, some water and soap, and a flat piece of glass. A lot of elbow grease and it'll shine like a mirror when you're done.


----------



## Awsan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Awsan*
> 
> Can this be saved by any means? (Sandpaper?)
> 
> 
> 
> You should be able to. Just google the directions for lapping a CPU heatsink. You'll need various sandpaper grits of wet/dry from 400 up to at least 1500 or 2000, some water and soap, and a flat piece of glass. A lot of elbow grease and it'll shine like a mirror when you're done.
Click to expand...

So lapping will do the trick, thanks mate


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Currently on h100i. Like I said before on earlier posts having my fans on 100% and lowest doesn't affect cooling and don't know why. Maybe the cooler doesn't make 100% proper contact with the cpu and thus my idle temps is ok and very low but load temps is somewhat high


I am using an H100 with Corsair fans and I see only about a four degree difference between low speed and high speed. I don't think you will see more than a four or five degree difference by replacing your cooler. You could try putting one of those red paper washers on each of the four pins of the backplate for the pump. That should snug it down a bit more. I had to do that on mine to get a decent fit, and others haven reported the same on some motherboards. You could also try removing the rad and see if fan speed makes a difference when the assembly is not mounted.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awsan*
> 
> So lapping will do the trick, thanks mate


hey bro..when lapping ..i would highly suggest you remove the copper/base of that cooler and then lap it...it will be easier that way...plus you have the benefit of being able to maybe refill /mod the tubes...less airbubble=more liquid=cleaner pump unit=better temps


----------



## Awsan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Awsan*
> 
> So lapping will do the trick, thanks mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hey bro..when lapping ..i would highly suggest you remove the copper/base of that cooler and then lap it...it will be easier that way...plus you have the benefit of being able to maybe refill /mod the tubes...less airbubble=more liquid=cleaner pump unit=better temps
Click to expand...

The Problem is that i dont have any kind of refillable liquid as i am in India now


----------



## X-PREDATOR

regular destilled water will do more than fine...ive done this before...had it running over a year no gunk up, no issues what so ever...i would just add a mini res for easier install afterwards..like a 50-100ml tube res or something similar in size


----------



## Noufel

Hi
I have the h110i GTX model cooling my 4790k at 4.4 1.18v.
I observed weird behaviors sometimes all work perfectly with idle temps in 28-32 and load in 65 ( stress testing aida occt ) and sometimes i got high idle temps 40-45 and load temps in the 80ish.
Is this a compatibility problem with my mb ( m6e )
A contact problem
Or a corsair link problem ?
How do i know that the pump is pumping ( one tube is warm and the other is cold ) can i trust corsair link when showing that the pump is at 3000rpm ?
Ps: i can't rma where i live








Sorry for those many questions i hope that you can help me guys you are the best of the net thnx in advance


----------



## X-PREDATOR

one tube hot
one tube cold?

hot..is intlet from cpu to rad...
cold..is outlet from rad to cpu....

ok how is the h100i installed in your haf X? care to share detailed pics inside out,,top etc etc...


----------



## Corsair Joseph

It's not a compatibility issue with your board, that cooler works perfectly with that Asus board.

Have you tried reseating the pump? And are you using the latest Corsair Link version? 3000rpm pump speed is a bit high for that cooler, I don't think that it's an accurate reading.


----------



## GhostaOne7

Ooops wrong thread couldnt find out how to delete


----------



## Noufel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> It's not a compatibility issue with your board, that cooler works perfectly with that Asus board.
> 
> Have you tried reseating the pump? And are you using the latest Corsair Link version? 3000rpm pump speed is a bit high for that cooler, I don't think that it's an accurate reading.


i think i found the culprit





the back plate of the h110i is tightened by the part of the HAF X where the mb is fixed, ant it crated too much pression in the left part of the socket
i have no tools to mod the hafX so i'll be buying a new case with a larger shrood behinde the mb


----------



## Chaoz

Just buy a dremel and cut out a piece.


----------



## Noufel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> Just buy a dremel and cut out a piece.


It's bizard but i can't find any store where i can buy one nearby


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noufel*
> 
> It's bizard but i can't find any store where i can buy one nearby


A pair of tin snips and a file would get you there just the same if not quite as easily. Would be cheaper and easier to find locally too.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noufel*
> 
> It's bizard but i can't find any store where i can buy one nearby


Can't you just rotate the backplate ninety degrees? Judging from your picture of your CPU I would also rotate the block as well. It might be hitting something on your board. That's a very common problem.


----------



## Noufel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Can't you just rotate the backplate ninety degrees? Judging from your picture of your CPU I would also rotate the block as well. It might be hitting something on your board. That's a very common problem.


thnx for the advise but i tried this and the corners of the back plate hit against the aluminium frame of tha HAF X .


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noufel*
> 
> It's bizard but i can't find any store where i can buy one nearby


Doesn't have to be of the brand itself. A cheap alternative can easily be bought anywhere.

What about a multi-tool?


----------



## clubfoot

Add me to the database please. H110i and two H75s cooling the video cards.


----------



## Zaen

Hi to everyone o//

Maybe someone can help me with a doubt i have on the gtx h100i. Got mine installed in October, i use it to cool a i5 6600K @4.6 using 1,415Vcore (so it heats up a bit). Since i installed it the water pump has been the noisier part of the hole system. Temps have been within my comfort zone, so i know it is cooling as expected but the noise has increased and i fear i have a bad pump impeller or something related to that. Pump speed is normal (only 70rpm above standard) or seems to be according to what i have searched, but whatever the use (cpu on load or idle) the noise is always there. Only time i don't hear it is when corsair rad fans go to 100% rpm and that whooshing noise surpasses the pumps (good thing i play with headsets). This only really bothers me when i want to sleep and leave system running something (even if left idling) the pumps noise is getting horrific. To me sounds like something is rubbing against each other or is somewhat loose and vibrates. I eliminated the possibility of leak and air getting in the pumps system (no wet/damp spots anywhere inside the case, no condensation and i put the whole system on its side and ran it for 30min. and the noise decreased for maybe 1h but came back as strong as before after i put it back upright).

I guess what i'm asking is for more tests i could do to "zero in" on the problem and confirm or dismiss that there is indeed a problem with the pump.

Got no digital camera to take photos of system installation or way to record the noise, need to borrow a media device from a friend to do that and i doubt i can do it in the next weeks.

Thx, in advanced, for all the input .


----------



## Chaoz

I updated my setup a bit. And applied the Corsair blue trim inserts to my CPU block and radiator. Looks so much better now








And replaced all my fans with Noctua's.


----------



## Mergatroid

That's a nice clean looking build. Nice job.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> That's a nice clean looking build. Nice job.


Thanks









Still not completely finished, tho. I still have to make a new side panel to cover up the hole next to the motherboard. And make the PSU shroud wider to cover up the cut out where my H100i v2 was mounted before.


----------



## solt

I have a silverstone ft2. Will it fit a corsair H115i cooler on the top or bottom above the 3 180 fans?

Also, I cannot seem to find the H115i gtx variant for some reason...


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solt*
> 
> I have a silverstone ft2. Will it fit a corsair H115i cooler on the top or bottom above the 3 180 fans?
> 
> Also, I cannot seem to find the H115i gtx variant for some reason...


No it won't fit in top. You only have room for a 120mm radiator. But when you remove 2 180mm fans you can place the radiator in specially designed radiator brackets.

The FT02 should have them aswell. My RV02 had that.

That's because the H115i is a rebrand of the H110i GTX.


----------



## 4LC4PON3

Just purchased a brand new in box h100i non gtx version and im wondering how reliable these things are. Do the pumps fail often? Amy kind of maintance or anything i should do before installing in my pc.

Sorry for my concerns im an air guy just get scared mixing liquid with my pc.


----------



## VSG

Most CLCs get a rigorous leak check before they are even packaged. The odds of failure of current gen units is quite low (<1.5% based on the numbers given to the server farm at my university). If you are still worried, I would say you probably got the cooler from the company with the best record of warranty so far, so use it without worry


----------



## 4LC4PON3

what is the best way to mount the radiator. on top of case or in the front. Im assuming top but I do see some pcs on here with them in the front. H100i


----------



## GrumpyOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4LC4PON3*
> 
> what is the best way to mount the radiator. on top of case or in the front. Im assuming top but I do see some pcs on here with them in the front. H100i


Mount it on top with it exhausting, leave the front for intake fans.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4LC4PON3*
> 
> what is the best way to mount the radiator. on top of case or in the front. Im assuming top but I do see some pcs on here with them in the front. H100i


*Here's what I'm trying this period.*
*It looks like it works for me.*
Without any chassis fans installed I am getting the same system temps as before.
I'm fully aware that my current setup is not appropriate for other systems / environments but I just want to give you an idea.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4LC4PON3*
> 
> Just purchased a brand new in box h100i non gtx version and im wondering how reliable these things are. Do the pumps fail often? Amy kind of maintance or anything i should do before installing in my pc.
> 
> Sorry for my concerns im an air guy just get scared mixing liquid with my pc.


I have my h100i non GTX here for about 2 years at least no issues. I would love to have the GTX version or even the h115 but I think not worth the upgrade anyway as I'm not temp limited and my temps is under 80C under load. I'm not going to push my 4790k past 4.6ghz due to already having trouble to get it to where I am now. I say if your temps is fine don't worry. if it fails then return it for a new unit or get it upgraded to h100i GTX at least.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4LC4PON3*
> 
> what is the best way to mount the radiator. on top of case or in the front. Im assuming top but I do see some pcs on here with them in the front. H100i


IMO If you have a video card that exhausts into the case you should have case fans. Also, your chipset chips and hard drives would benefit from having the circulation provided by case fans. My system is also set to intake from the front and exhaust at the top. Give it a try and see how it performs. Personally I like to use fans to push air through the rad, but push or pull won't make much of a temperature difference.


----------



## 4LC4PON3

i installed my h100i and I love it the only issue I have is with the corsair fans. i did not use the supplied corsair fans because my case is a blue black and red theme so I used my own blue fans on my fan controller. temps are idling at 26.4. x2 hours of witcher 3 never broke over 30c


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Most CLCs get a rigorous leak check before they are even packaged. The odds of failure of current gen units is quite low (<1.5% based on the numbers given to the server farm at my university). If you are still worried, I would say you probably got the cooler from the company with the best record of warranty so far, so use it without worry


Thx for the input









Have to look up what support i can have in Portugal from Corsair, now i need to think about a good/cheap enough air cooler when it comes to, probably, shipping to Corsair the H100i and probably downclock my current OC in CPU and GPU to help the air cooler.. darn it :\

My bad luck with electronic devices is what helped me choose to be a Elect. HW Tec.


----------



## vibraslap

Figured I'd crosspost this here as I might get more responses.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vibraslap*
> 
> So I was saying I have a stable overclock at these settings and thats true but...
> 
> The temps are out of control.
> 
> Running Prime95 for not even 10 min and I hit 90C easy. AIDA64 is more forgiving, but as others have said, if your not testing your cpu for all use cases, whats the point?
> 
> I'm using a h100i v2 for cooling right now and I was wondering, how much better does it get for a AIO cooler? I've thought about going to a 280mm radiator model with 4 fans for push pull, but would the results even be appreciable?(~10C or more) Please tell me I don't need some huge suitcase of radiators or one of these next to my PC to improve my cooling.


Trying to run a 6900k overclocked to 4.4Ghz 24/7 under any load. Thoughts?


----------



## GrumpyOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vibraslap*
> 
> Figured I'd crosspost this here as I might get more responses.
> Trying to run a 6900k overclocked to 4.4Ghz 24/7 under any load. Thoughts?


It could be the thermal paste and the way you mounted the pump, I had a similar issue with my GPU before, cleaned off the stock paste, applied a new layer and made sure to tighten the block evenly - voila, purrs in the 40s under load now.

This reminds me that my CPU temps are starting to rise lately, I'm starting to think that the TIM that comes with these AIOs is not that good.


----------



## modapcboy

Hi guys , new here to the corsair hydro club. So I have the corsair h60i since 2014, back then I used a bitfenix phenom m case and it was a real mess when it came to cable management , or the hoses were bent ( there's actually a small kink in one of the hoses ) but I don't know how to fix it back.

Anyways this year decided to make new changes. Like to a new case , s340 and bought some news fans, used a new thermal paste ( deepcool z5 ). Before I replaced the paste I got around 40c up , idle and basic browsing etc.

Now I have like 28 - 32 c. I also cleaned the radiator with water and replaced the h60i fan with a sp 120 quiet edition. The nxzt fans were also replaced with quiet AF corsair fans.

So my setup is like > front , SP fan then radiator.

Back , 1 AF fan

Top , another AF fan.

I use a 4790k processor and I don't have a videocard yet. Is there a way to tweak this setup? I saw some setups with another AF fan below the h60i in the front, not sure how they did that or was that a 140mm fan ( s340 club ).

If I replace the h60i with a more powerul corsair cooler, what would be the estimated temps be like ? 20 - 25 ? Any ideas ? Thanks


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrumpyOne*
> 
> It could be the thermal paste and the way you mounted the pump, I had a similar issue with my GPU before, cleaned off the stock paste, applied a new layer and made sure to tighten the block evenly - voila, purrs in the 40s under load now.
> 
> This reminds me that my CPU temps are starting to rise lately, I'm starting to think that the TIM that comes with these AIOs is not that good.


The TIM that comes with Corsair AIO coolers is Dow Corning and has been tested to be as good as Shin Etsu TIM. So the TIM itself is not an issue.
In fact, with temps in the 90s, if the cooler was reseated properly and was functioning properly, you could probably use toothpaste and get a lower temp. I don't know any TIMs that are so bad that the TIM by itself would make a 40 degree difference.


----------



## vibraslap

I used ARCTIC MX-4 for the thermal paste. I'm gonna try and re-seat it tonight and report back with temps.


----------



## nblob

What is the best way to use the fans on the h100i??
Exhuast or pulling air in??

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nblob*
> 
> What is the best way to use the fans on the h100i??
> Exhuast or pulling air in??
> 
> Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk


That depends on a few things.

If your video card exhausts into your case then you might want the water cooler pulling cool air into your case instead of drawing hot video card air through your water cooler.

On the other hand, if your video card exhausts air out the back of your case, you can let your water cooler push air from inside the case outward. This has a small added advantage of not drawing as much dust into the rad, especially if you have a dust filter on your case where your main cool air intake is located.

One last thing. Intake from outside the case will make the CPU run a few degrees cooler but increase the temp on your video card, chipset and hard drives. Exhausting from inside the case through the rad will make your CPU run a few degrees warmer but allow video card, chipset and hard drive to run a little cooler.


----------



## nblob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nblob*
> 
> What is the best way to use the fans on the h100i??
> Exhuast or pulling air in??
> 
> Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> That depends on a few things.
> 
> If your video card exhausts into your case then you might want the water cooler pulling cool air into your case instead of drawing hot video card air through your water cooler.
> 
> On the other hand, if your video card exhausts air out the back of your case, you can let your water cooler push air from inside the case outward. This has a small added advantage of not drawing as much dust into the rad, especially if you have a dust filter on your case where your main cool air intake is located.
> 
> One last thing. Intake from outside the case will make the CPU run a few degrees cooler but increase the temp on your video card, chipset and hard drives. Exhausting from inside the case through the rad will make your CPU run a few degrees warmer but allow video card, chipset and hard drive to run a little cooler.
Click to expand...

I have a reference design blower style RX480

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## vibraslap

I re-seated the cooler, still getting insane temps. I even backed off my overclock, and I still top 85C running OCCT.

I think my cooler isn't doing it's job to the best of it's ability. I've noticed Corsair Link reports my pump running at 2800-3000 rmp but my radiator fans running at only 780 rpm? I have the fan configured in CL to run at a fixed 100% speed. Corsairs website reports these fans are capable of up to 2500 rpm. Whats going on here?


----------



## modapcboy

Guys , I just repositioned the h60i to the back of the case again, with a top AF fan, plus 1 fan in the front. Noticed like a 2 degrees increase in temp ?


----------



## Gambit74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vibraslap*
> 
> I re-seated the cooler, still getting insane temps. I even backed off my overclock, and I still top 85C running OCCT.
> 
> I think my cooler isn't doing it's job to the best of it's ability. I've noticed Corsair Link reports my pump running at 2800-3000 rmp but my radiator fans running at only 780 rpm? I have the fan configured in CL to run at a fixed 100% speed. Corsairs website reports these fans are capable of up to 2500 rpm. Whats going on here?


Hi I have a 5820k @4.2 with a H100i with 2x Noctua NF-F12 fans pushing air out of the case. Idles about 15c above room temp. It also has to cope with a 295x2 drawing air into the case in push pull, which sends the heat up to the CPU cooler.

Firstly don't use Prime95 later Intel chips don't like it. If Aida64 can show the CPU at max load that will do.
Just ran Aida64 on mine, stressing the CPU, FPU and Cache temp before (idle) 40c temp during test (max load) 56c

One of the easiest ways to have temps rise in stress test is high volts, what volts are you at, at 4.4?
What is your idle temp? What is the ambient temp? What else have you got in your case creating heat?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nblob*
> 
> I have a reference design blower style RX480


My reference AMD cards blow out the back of the case.


----------



## LeonKennedy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> That depends on a few things.
> 
> If your video card exhausts into your case then you might want the water cooler pulling cool air into your case instead of drawing hot video card air through your water cooler.
> 
> On the other hand, if your video card exhausts air out the back of your case, you can let your water cooler push air from inside the case outward. This has a small added advantage of not drawing as much dust into the rad, especially if you have a dust filter on your case where your main cool air intake is located.
> 
> One last thing. Intake from outside the case will make the CPU run a few degrees cooler but increase the temp on your video card, chipset and hard drives. Exhausting from inside the case through the rad will make your CPU run a few degrees warmer but allow video card, chipset and hard drive to run a little cooler.


What if I use 4 fan for push-pull configuration, 2 fan for pull air from inside the case, 2 fan for push air outside the case?


----------



## Mergatroid

Push pull vs just push or just pull will only make a difference of a couple of degrees. Some people have gotten less than what they hoped for when changing to push pull.
My H100 was push/pull but I found that the temperature difference was so small I decided to remove the two pull fans. I am using a Corsair 600T case so It's hard to get push pull to fit. I actually had to MOD the case a little. It was a lot of work for very little return. On the other hand, if you have room to easily install a push pull system, there's no harm in it and you will get slightly better temps. The only real drawback is the added cost of two more fans and the little bit of extra power they draw, plus the extra wires to rout.


----------



## LeonKennedy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Push pull vs just push or just pull will only make a difference of a couple of degrees. Some people have gotten less than what they hoped for when changing to push pull.
> My H100 was push/pull but I found that the temperature difference was so small I decided to remove the two pull fans. I am using a Corsair 600T case so It's hard to get push pull to fit. I actually had to MOD the case a little. It was a lot of work for very little return. On the other hand, if you have room to easily install a push pull system, there's no harm in it and you will get slightly better temps. The only real drawback is the added cost of two more fans and the little bit of extra power they draw, plus the extra wires to rout.


Thanks, I'm using Phanteks Enthoo Luxe.

I think I will go for push only.


----------



## 4LC4PON3

I love my H100i but let me tell you I hate the fans that come with it. I had them mounted and a push on top and I had the fan speed set to 1300 fixed woke up and both fans were chirping. So I set them to QUIET and still the same thing these fans are loud and make chirp noises. So I put my stock fans that came with my case in and bam perfect. My case came with 5 built in fans. I am not seeing any temp differences from my the corsair fans to my cheap fans that came with my case. Just overall its quieter

this is my case.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811353090


----------



## Mergatroid

Wow, that's a really sweet case for the price.


----------



## 4LC4PON3

this case is phenominal its basically a LARGER NZXT S340 rip off but this case is more of a full tower. Its SOLID i means extremely Solid not a single flimsy part of this case at all. comes with 5 preinstalled fans x3 light up blue and x2 non light up top fans. All fans are extremely quiet and move good air. I paid $50.00 and was thinking its gonna be junk because of the price. I sold my NZXT S340 and kept this.

there is also a 5 fan speed controller built in


----------



## Mergatroid

Yeah, usually at that price you get cheap, flimsy, sharp edges and few accessories. I almost feel like it's too bad I don't need a new case. I do really like my 600T though, and especially the four 5 1/4" drive bays since I have them all in-use.
I like the looks of the DIYPC case as well.


----------



## thiussat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4LC4PON3*
> 
> this case is phenominal its basically a LARGER NZXT S340 rip off but this case is more of a full tower. Its SOLID i means extremely Solid not a single flimsy part of this case at all. comes with 5 preinstalled fans x3 light up blue and x2 non light up top fans. All fans are extremely quiet and move good air. I paid $50.00 and was thinking its gonna be junk because of the price. I sold my NZXT S340 and kept this.
> 
> there is also a 5 fan speed controller built in


I have the Phanteks P400. While I really like the case, I feel I sorta made a mistake buying it because it doesn't allow for a top mounted radiator. I knew this before buying it, so I'm not blaming Phanteks. It's just now after completing my build I would like to add a second radiator and I can't. Does the case you have allow room for a rad at the top and front as well as room for a pump/reservoir/custom loop? I really want to liquid cool my GPU because the stock fans are so damn loud and annoying.


----------



## 4LC4PON3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thiussat*
> 
> I have the Phanteks P400. While I really like the case, I feel I sorta made a mistake buying it because it doesn't allow for a top mounted radiator. I knew this before buying it, so I'm not blaming Phanteks. It's just now after completing my build I would like to add a second radiator and I can't. Does the case you have allow room for a rad at the top and front as well as room for a pump/reservoir/custom loop? I really want to liquid cool my GPU because the stock fans are so damn loud and annoying.


personally i dont know much about water cooling at all but what I do know is that this case is big and there is alot of room. This is from Newegg specifications.

specs at the newegg link. From what the pictures show on newegg you can fit a 240mm radiator on top and the front can hold up to a 280mm radiator

Full black interior

Advanced cable management design - 23.5mm

Advanced Bottom-Mounted PSU Design

Built-in SD/MMC/TF card reader

Integrated fan speed controller - control front, top and rear fans

Top mounted IO ports - 2x USB 3.0 for up-to-date high speed data transfer

Screw-less design for 3.5" HDDs

5 fans capability (2 x 120mm blue led fan x front, 1 x 120mm blue led fan x rear, 2 x 120mm blue fan x top) provide great cooling performance

Support up to 160mm CPU cooler

Support up to 410mm VGA card

I did not pay what newegg has its price set it now. I paid 50 flat but it did go up 9 bucks


----------



## LeonKennedy

When installing the radiator on the top, we should install 2 fan inside the case for push air through radiator or install outside to pull air through radiator?


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeonKennedy*
> 
> When installing the radiator on the top, we should install 2 fan inside the case for push air through radiator or install outside to pull air through radiator?


Think push is usually superior to pull but I might be wrong.


----------



## Mergatroid

There is no difference between push and pull if you're looking at temperatures. However, I would recommend keeping the fans inside the case. You don't need to mount them externally. Above the rad or below the rad, but still inside the case.


----------



## LeonKennedy

I just buy a Corsair H115i, setup for pull configuration and here is the temp.



My room temperature is 32*C. Is that normal?


----------



## redshoulder

. wrong thread


----------



## 4LC4PON3

this is my H100i extreme performance in Push config. I am NOT using the corsair fans and I find them to be loud and chirp. I am using YHS fans that came with my PC case. damn near silent & push great temps.


----------



## thiussat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeonKennedy*
> 
> I just buy a Corsair H115i, setup for pull configuration and here is the temp.
> 
> 
> 
> My room temperature is 32*C. Is that normal?


Yes. It's normal. Your water temp is only 5 degrees higher than your room temp. That's pretty good for an AIO.


----------



## LeonKennedy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thiussat*
> 
> Yes. It's normal. Your water temp is only 5 degrees higher than your room temp. That's pretty good for an AIO.


Thanks, this is the first time I use AIO liquid cooler, which temperature should I care about beside CPU temperature?

When I open AIDA64 or Gigabyte System Viewer, 2 programs report that the fans in the cooler rotate in 900RPM, which is incorrect number because I set fan on Corsair Link always at 1500RPM, and I noticed that its lower 2 fans in the cooler to 900 RPM too, I can't use Corsair Link to change. If only I close above programs, it will return to normal. What seems to be the problem?


----------



## thiussat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeonKennedy*
> 
> Thanks, this is the first time I use AIO liquid cooler, which temperature should I care about beside CPU temperature?


The AIO is only responsible for the CPU. Everything else on the motherboard (VRM's, etc) will be dependent on the heatsink that comes on the board itself and your case's airflow. Your board is pretty good quality so it should be fine.

A question: I noticed in your pic that cores 3 and 4 are running a lot hotter than the other two. Is this because there was a load on those two cores? Or are they always that much hotter?
Quote:


> When I open AIDA64 or Gigabyte System Viewer, 2 programs report that the fans in the cooler rotate in 900RPM, which is incorrect number because I set fan on Corsair Link always at 1500RPM, and I noticed that its lower 2 fans in the cooler to 900 RPM too, I can't use Corsair Link to change. If only I close above programs, it will return to normal. What seems to be the problem?


There's some sort of conflict between Corsair Link and the other monitoring software. It happens on my system too. The two don't play well together and you'll need to choose one or the other to control fan speeds. Personally I just use Corsair Link as it has been stable for me and does what I want.

And, finally, buy an air conditioner, bro. I don't know how you can tolerate a 90°F room temperature!


----------



## LeonKennedy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thiussat*
> 
> The AIO is only responsible for the CPU. Everything else on the motherboard (VRM's, etc) will be dependent on the heatsink that comes on the board itself and your case's airflow. Your board is pretty good quality so it should be fine.
> 
> A question: I noticed in your pic that cores 3 and 4 are running a lot hotter than the other two. Is this because there was a load on those two cores? Or are they always that much hotter?


That are Temp 3 and Temp 4 right? I don't know what are those, I only focus on the CPU temperature, can that be some kind of chipset on my motherboard?
Quote:


> And, finally, buy an air conditioner, bro. I don't know how you can tolerate a 90°F room temperature!


I have one but I don't use often because it affect energy comsumption and monthly bill.








Quote:


> There's some sort of conflict between Corsair Link and the other monitoring software. It happens on my system too. The two don't play well together and you'll need to choose one or the other to control fan speeds. Personally I just use Corsair Link as it has been stable for me and does what I want.


Thanks, I think I will choose Corsair Link too. Anyway, why the 2 fans don't operate base on CPU load? It always run at max RPM I have set in Corsair Link.


----------



## vibraslap

I ran into this same problem. Ended up disconnecting my fans from my pump and plugging them straight into the mb and using the asus bios to configure them.

I found Corsair Link and Asus Fan Xpert to both be pretty useless for fan control. I dropped my load temp more than 10C after I let my mobo handle the fan speed.;


----------



## LeonKennedy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vibraslap*
> 
> I ran into this same problem. Ended up disconnecting my fans from my pump and plugging them straight into the mb and using the asus bios to configure them.
> 
> I found Corsair Link and Asus Fan Xpert to both be pretty useless for fan control. I dropped my load temp more than 10C after I let my mobo handle the fan speed.;


There are two fan but there is only one CPU_FAN header, how do I suppose to connect?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vibraslap*
> 
> I ran into this same problem. Ended up disconnecting my fans from my pump and plugging them straight into the mb and using the asus bios to configure them.
> 
> I found Corsair Link and Asus Fan Xpert to both be pretty useless for fan control. I dropped my load temp more than 10C after I let my mobo handle the fan speed.;


Did you actually set fan curves for your fans, or were you just trying to let Link do everything for you? Link's default fan settings suck, a custom curve is much better....My fans, which are the stock ones that came with my H100i, are quiet all the time. Below are the settings that I use for mine....Keep in mind I have the fan speeds based on the liquid temps, not the CPU temps.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeonKennedy*
> 
> There are two fan but there is only one CPU_FAN header, how do I suppose to connect?


If you're wanting to connect them both to a single header, then you'll need a fan splitter.


----------



## thiussat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeonKennedy*
> 
> That are Temp 3 and Temp 4 right? I don't know what are those, I only focus on the CPU temperature, can that be some kind of chipset on my motherboard?


Your CPU has 4 cores. Each of them have their own temperature sensors that Corsair Link (or any monitoring software) reads. I noticed a large disparity between cores 1, 2 and 3, 4. Were they under load? Check them again at idle and see if the temperatures are more in line with each other. I am asking this because it could mean your water block is not mounted properly.
Quote:


> Thanks, I think I will choose Corsair Link too. Anyway, why the 2 fans don't operate base on CPU load? It always run at max RPM I have set in Corsair Link.


I set my fans on a custom curve and I set them based on water temp (not CPU temp). Why? Because the CPU temp makes them ramp up really fast and then ramp down. It's always fluctuating and annoying. If you set them to water temp, it takes them longer to ramp up and they wont ramp up until really needed.


----------



## LeonKennedy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thiussat*
> 
> Your CPU has 4 cores. Each of them have their own temperature sensors that Corsair Link (or any monitoring software) reads. I noticed a large disparity between cores 1, 2 and 3, 4. Were they under load? Check them again at idle and see if the temperatures are more in line with each other. I am asking this because it could mean your water block is not mounted properly.


Did you make a mistake by looking at the mainboard section above CPU section on the Corsair Link? Because I saw 4 core with the temp only different in 1-2*C. This is my RealTemp result.


Quote:


> I set my fans on a custom curve and I set them based on water temp (not CPU temp). Why? Because the CPU temp makes them ramp up really fast and then ramp down. It's always fluctuating and annoying. If you set them to water temp, it takes them longer to ramp up and they wont ramp up until really needed.


Ok, it takes sometime for me to get used to it. I will update here if I get any trouble.


----------



## thiussat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeonKennedy*
> 
> Did you make a mistake by looking at the mainboard section above CPU section on the Corsair Link? Because I saw 4 core with the temp only different in 1-2*C. This is my RealTemp result.
> 
> 
> Ok, it takes sometime for me to get used to it. I will update here if I get any trouble.


You're right. I was looking at the wrong temps. Nevermind.


----------



## wywywywy

Just got a H55 yesterday, and I have a question - is it okay to reduce the voltage (hence speed) of the pump? Is there any risk?

The pump is the main audible thing in my PC now as the fan is running only at 500rpm.

I am planning to use a voltage reduction cable adapter (to 9v) because my board doesn't support 3-pin voltage fan control.

EDIT - In case anyone is wondering, I have tried it, using a Noctua noise reduction cable. The pump is now running at 1100rpm instead of 1500rpm. The noise is much reduced!


----------



## redshoulder

I see H45 was released recently but not much information about it, seems to be at this time available in U.K only.


----------



## sherlock

Got a pair of NF-A14 iPPC-2000RPM PWM installed today. Already seen a significant noise reduction vs H110iGT's default SP140L at 1000 RPM, Will tweak those some more tomorrow.

Got my pair for only $43.4 (Newegg/Amazon have them at $28X2 with tax) on Jet.com as they offer 15% off(TRIPLE15 code) and extra saving for ordering in multiples. If you can find fans you want there, now is the time to buy from them(code expires in September).
https://jet.com/


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Got a pair of NF-A14 iPPC-2000RPM PWM installed today. Already seen a significant noise reduction vs H110iGT's default SP140L at 1000 RPM, Will tweak those some more tomorrow.
> 
> Got my pair for only $43.4 (Newegg/Amazon have them at $28X2 with tax) on Jet.com as they offer 15% off(TRIPLE15 code) and extra saving for ordering in multiples. If you can find fans you want there, now is the time to buy from them(code expires in September).
> https://jet.com/


Wow, good deal! Thanks for the info.


----------



## LeonKennedy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Got a pair of NF-A14 iPPC-2000RPM PWM installed today. Already seen a significant noise reduction vs H110iGT's default SP140L at 1000 RPM, Will tweak those some more tomorrow.
> 
> Got my pair for only $43.4 (Newegg/Amazon have them at $28X2 with tax) on Jet.com as they offer 15% off(TRIPLE15 code) and extra saving for ordering in multiples. If you can find fans you want there, now is the time to buy from them(code expires in September).
> https://jet.com/


How about using a pair of this fan from Phanteks?









https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Pressure-Radiator-Cooling-PH-F140MP_BK_PWM/dp/B00OP2PUDQ/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_img_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=00WFN6R6PVJY19YGMHAV


----------



## VoodooFarm

I've seen corsair releasing a lot of new products lately, or at least updated, and changing the names around quite a bit (from gtx to v2 etc), so it's been hard to keep up with what theyre doing. Anyways, could someone explain to me the difference between the h110i and the h115i? They look the exact same from what I can tell.


----------



## thiussat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VoodooFarm*
> 
> I've seen corsair releasing a lot of new products lately, or at least updated, and changing the names around quite a bit (from gtx to v2 etc), so it's been hard to keep up with what theyre doing. Anyways, could someone explain to me the difference between the h110i and the h115i? They look the exact same from what I can tell.


The H110i GTX is the exact same unit as the H115i. Corsair renamed their products this year to help avoid confusion.

H110i GTX = H115i

H110i GT = H110i

The GT models are made by CoolIt and the GTX models are made by Asetek.


----------



## yenclas

Hello,

I'm Spanish, sorry by my bad English.

Today installed my new H110i GT on my Corsair 540 case and with an Intel Skylake 6700K on 4.7Ghz with 1.42v.

My old fan was Noctua D15 but I changed it because I prefer the look of this AIO.

I change stock fans with other ones I have (AF140 quiet edition) in exhaust type

Installed with thermal paste Kryonaut and test it x264 Stability Test V2.05 and max temp instantly get to:

79
84
80
77

Something is wrong ? I get best temps with Noctua D15 (dual fan)


----------



## Chaoz

The AF140's aren't so great for radiator fans. You need Static Pressure fans for radiators. Like Corsair SP140 or Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-2000.

The AF series are used more for cases.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

then how come one of the best reviewers,,,JAY Z two cents used /uses them on his projects? if you use LOW density fins rads then high sp doesnt matter as long as you get decent airflo thru the rads themselfs.....theres a degree or two difference between the best sp fans and budget /airflo designed fans...


----------



## yenclas

I think I have a problem mounting it. Reseating didn't help and have 90° in aida stress test.

My motheboard is Asus Maximus Hero viii. Anyone with tis AIO and this motheboard ?

Enviado desde mi Mi-4c mediante Tapatalk


----------



## MazrimCF

I am using the the same motherboard and cpu with even the same 0C as you with a little less voltage and I see those types of temps also and I am not sure why. I have changed out the fans to Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 2000 and have tried both letting the motherboard control the fans and letting link control the fans and i can keep my temps down. I have taking the pump off and redid the paste with AS5 more times than I care to count but I still cant get the 70c~ that i see other people post.

That said I only see high temps when stress testing for normal day to day it stays under 50c while gaming and watching netflix/twitch or youtube on the other screen which is the most I'm going to be putting the system thru on the daily.


----------



## v2ikemees

Got my hands on the new Corsair H45( totally new design) and combined it with the HG980 bracket for my 980Ti. Seems they have fixed most of the previous problems they had with the HG (ala bending the GPU / stand offs broke easily) Note: The fan on it is still loud as hell even at min speeds 1700rpm!!

Now when it came to mounting the cooler it was a bit tricky and im still not sure if its 100% compatible with the HG since its not a standard Asetek design. Theres a little cap between the shroud and the cooler head itself. Could not use the stand offs that came with the bracket and there where no standoffs provided with the cooler. Altho temp seem to be fine.

Was bit shocked how short the tubes were. Originaly i wanted to mount it front of the case but it quickly became clear that thats not going to work. Could not mount it back because of the CPU cooler blocking the tubes, so only option was to mount it bottom of the case.


----------



## VSG

The H45, as you noticed, is not an Asetek or CoolIT made product. It's currently in OEM only mode in the US which I think is a big mistake given how well it performs as a CPU cooler given the price but I guess they don't want to see it hurt sales of their other AIOs.


----------



## yenclas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yenclas*
> 
> I think I have a problem mounting it. Reseating didn't help and have 90° in aida stress test.
> 
> My motheboard is Asus Maximus Hero viii. Anyone with tis AIO and this motheboard ?
> 
> Enviado desde mi Mi-4c mediante Tapatalk


If I touch radiator isn't hot.... i reseated pum 3 times and nothing changes. The pump is at 3200 rpm. Probably fault item ?


----------



## yenclas

I tried to put the backplate from my old Noctua D15 without clean and replace thermal paste to try it fast, and now max core temp is 80º !!! 10ºC cooler than backplate from Corsair ......

What is the problem ?


----------



## LeonKennedy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yenclas*
> 
> I tried to put the backplate from my old Noctua D15 without clean and replace thermal paste to try it fast, and now max core temp is 80º !!! 10ºC cooler than backplate from Corsair ......
> 
> What is the problem ?


This is the temp I got when OC 6700K to 4.6Ghz with H115i. What do you think?


----------



## yenclas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeonKennedy*
> 
> This is the temp I got when OC 6700K to 4.6Ghz with H115i. What do you think?


Ok, this temp seems acceptable, but my problem is an issue with the original backplate from corsair. > 90ºC


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yenclas*
> 
> If I touch radiator isn't hot.... i reseated pum 3 times and nothing changes. The pump is at 3200 rpm. Probably fault item ?


Try rotating then pump 90 degrees and reinstall it again.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

ok ive got a funny ?..no time to research right now...whats the h100i's pump suppose to run at full tilt? with just the power from the psu???
i got around to finaly test out the unit i have (brand new sealed in the box) on a mates setup so i could confirm it works correctly and if itll outperform his phtc14pe....(wich it couldnt by a mile long)....idle temps on h100i was in the mid 30s to almost 40s...loads were up to the 50-70s..fans running full tilt...his phanteks cooler...idle mid 20s...loads 40-50s....
cpu is i7 3770k..pste used both times...AS5...method...line with 4 small dots around the line..very thinly....
we hooked up the rpm cable for the h cooler..all bios fans controls disabled ...pump runs at 18-2000rpm....isnt this a tad low????


----------



## yenclas

Fixed !!!

Added metal washers in backplate, delidded my 6700K, reseated with thermal paste Promilatech PK-1 and max temp in (x264 Stability Test (64bit)) 64º at 4.700Mhz and 1,42 vcore with radiators fans at min !!!


----------



## vibraslap

My h100i v2 pump runs at ~2800rpm fwiw.


----------



## MazrimCF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yenclas*
> 
> Fixed !!!
> 
> Added metal washers in backplate, delidded my 6700K, reseated with thermal paste Promilatech PK-1 and max temp in (x264 Stability Test (64bit)) 64º at 4.700Mhz and 1,42 vcore with radiators fans at min !!!


I'm not brave enough to delid but what size washer did you use and how did you prevent shorts?


----------



## yenclas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MazrimCF*
> 
> I'm not brave enough to delid but what size washer did you use and how did you prevent shorts?


M4 (4mm for washer). I take off rubber washer that have backplate, put two metal washers and put original rubber washer on top









Same with this image

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/attachment.php?attachmentid=11932&d=1357522199


----------



## vibraslap

So heres something i just realized.

My h100i's radiator barely changes temp under load. idle: 28C rad 35C cpu, load: 31C rad ~75C cpu.

I also have a h75 on my gpu and the rad on that get up to past 55C under load!

What gives? I've reseated the plate once already. Guess I should try again?


----------



## thiussat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vibraslap*
> 
> So heres something i just realized.
> 
> My h100i's radiator barely changes temp under load. idle: 28C rad 35C cpu, load: 31C rad ~75C cpu.
> 
> I also have a h75 on my gpu and the rad on that get up to past 55C under load!
> 
> What gives? I've reseated the plate once already. Guess I should try again?


The H100 has a larger rad than the H75 and a CPU uses a lot less wattage and puts out less heat than a GPU. Therefore, the lower temps on the H100 (and higher temps on the H75) are to be expected. It would be ideal to use the H100 for the GPU instead, but I realize that might not be possible with whatever bracket you're using.

My H115i (280 rad) only goes up a few degrees under full load because my 90W CPU doesn't put out enough heat to stress it. My fans are set to their slowest setting and even a Prime95 burn will not make my water temps climb more than about 5°C.

Do not confuse CPU temps for rad temps as they have nothing at all to do with one another. It's all about total WATTAGE being fed to the rad. A CPU doesn't use enough power to stress the 240+ rads to their limits (unless you're running an FX-9590 or something).

What's the TDP on your CPU? Is it overclocked?


----------



## vibraslap

CPU is i7 6900k OC'd to 4.3Ghz, 140W TDP, so i'm pretty sure its putting out the power. It just seems strange to me that very little of that heat seems to transfer to the radiator.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MazrimCF*
> 
> I'm not brave enough to delid but what size washer did you use and how did you prevent shorts?


You can use those redish brown paper washers. I used them and they seemed to work OK. I had to widen the hole in the washers a little though.


----------



## yenclas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redshoulder*
> 
> After first item was doa and returned for rma, second gtx100igtx seems to be working.
> 
> What is strange is that with regarding to the pump, high performance has a better sound tone compared with quiet mode which is strange.
> 
> With quiet mode sound pitch is lower but overall noise is louder, but with high performance sound pitch is of higher frequency but overall lower noise (similar to a D5 vario pump at setting 2 or 3)


Hi to all,

I have same problem.

At performance mode pump noise is higher but more comfortable for me









It is normal ?


----------



## LeonKennedy

Currently my setup:

- Two PH-F140SP 140mm fan at the front for intake (rotate at 1200RPM, max speed).
- One PH-F140SP 140mm fan at the back for exhaust (rotate at 1200RPM, max speed).
- Two 140mm fan at the top for exhaust (Corsair SP140L from the H115i cooler config for pull air through the radiator).

My case is Phanteks Enthoo Luxe, here is the supported fan configuration.



So in the top I still have one PH-F140SP installed. Should I install it as an intake or exhaust fan to get positive air pressure inside my case?

At the moment I'm turning off that fan, can you guys help me to decide?


----------



## yenclas

Changed fans in my H110i GT with Noctua NF A14 industrialPPC 2000, and.... The best fan's I owned !!!


----------



## comagnum

Hey all. I just got a h110i GTX and it's performing wonderfully.

Specs:
FX-9370 @ stock speeds
Asus Aura 970
R9 Nano
16gigs Kingston HyperX ddr3-1600
Thermaltake Suppressor F31

My idle temps range from 10c-15c with load temps below 40c

I don't need the extra cooling, but for future overclocking/benching endeavors, I'd like to set it up in a push/pull configuration.

My question for the more experienced crowd is, would it be better to utilize the stock fans in either a push or a pull? I purchased 2 Noctua NF-P14s and want to utilize them in the best configuration.

Also, is it better to mount the radiator in the front of the case, or top? I'm not sure what difference it would make other than having more room for the fans in a push/pull set up in my case.


----------



## Mergatroid

Your idle temps seem awfully low. Are you sure your temp software is reporting accurately? 10 - 15c is pretty low. Remember it can't be lower than your ambient temperature. In most places room temperature is 22c and up.


----------



## tolis626

Hey guys! Proud owner of an H110 here, but I'm having trouble!









So, first off, I was told to ask for Corsair_Joseph, but I see no one with that username here... Dunno.

Anyways! To the issue at hand. I tried to remove my H110 a few days ago because I got some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut for my GPU and, since it's supposed to be the best TIM out there, I wanted to use it on my CPU too. As I tried to unscrew the block, the top right screw would spin endlessly. At first I thought "Uh-oh, I've stripped the threads", but it turns out that the standoff that's lodged into the notches of the backplate is loose and it spins when I try to unscrew the screw, which is tight in there. So far I've tried pushing it to immobilize it, catching it with my hands, with pliers and I dunno what else, but I can't seem to get it to unscrew. Last resort I see is glueing the thing on there, but I don't know if that'll work, so I'm at a pickle. Bad thing is, the block was actually off the IHS while I was trying to remove the last screw, so there is probably air bubbles in there now and my temps have gone up a bit, by 5C or so, maybe a bit more. At least I didn't damage anything on the motherboard by the looks of it, so there's that.

So... Any help here? Anything would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!


----------



## VSG

This is the rep you were looking for: http://www.overclock.net/u/349064/corsair-joseph

Loosen all the screws from the backplate (making sure the posts through the backplate are in line and not rotating) and see if you can get everything off.


----------



## tolis626

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> This is the rep you were looking for: http://www.overclock.net/u/349064/corsair-joseph
> 
> Loosen all the screws from the backplate (making sure the posts through the backplate are in line and not rotating) and see if you can get everything off.


First off, thank you! @Corsair Joseph was the right one, I was adding an underscore out of nowhere.









That's the problem, I can't loose the final screw! The post on the backplate moves along with it and I can't seem to be able to immobilize it somehow. It just keeps spinning with the screw no matter what I do.


----------



## VSG

Hmmm.. A picture/video would be helpful if you have one.


----------



## tolis626

I don't have one and I won't be home for the next few days, sorry.









I'll try to describe it as best as I can. 3 out of 4 screws can be unscrewed normally, no problem. The last one, the top right one, will keep spinning with some resistance but nothing happens. Looking at the back, 3 out of 4 posts are where they should be on the backplate, but the fourth one spins around in its socket. It doesn't protrude from the backplate either, it's flush in there, so I guess that the plastic of the backplate is damaged at that point as the post will push the plastic when it turns. The screw and post rotate as one.

I hope it makes sense. If it doesn't make sense to anyone I will make a video on Sunday.


----------



## Mergatroid

So basically you have a screw loose









Do you have a small pair of vice grips? You could give them a try to hold the "nut". Needle nose vice grips would be best. Your glue idea is not a bad idea. Worst case is to use a Dremel or roto tool to cut it off.
I agree that you should talk to Corsair about it and follow their instructions. They may replace it if you are forced to cut it off.


----------



## tolis626

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> So basically you have a screw loose
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a small pair of vice grips? You could give them a try to hold the "nut". Needle nose vice grips would be best. Your glue idea is not a bad idea. Worst case is to use a Dremel or roto tool to cut it off.
> I agree that you should talk to Corsair about it and follow their instructions. They may replace it if you are forced to cut it off.


Yeah, I see your point... I'm just kind of afraid of cutting this close to the motherboard. One wrong step and I'm a Maximus VII Formula short.









I'll probably wait for a reply from Corsair.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

@tolis626 it's possible that one screw threads on the backplate is already stripped. That Phanteks case has CPU bkacplate cut out right where you can access the backplate without removing the MB? Have you tried holding the backplate in place while loosening the screw?


----------



## tolis626

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> @tolis626 it's possible that one screw threads on the backplate is already stripped. That Phanteks case has CPU bkacplate cut out right where you can access the backplate without removing the MB? Have you tried holding the backplate in place while loosening the screw?


First off, thank you!

Now, yes, I can access the backplate and yes, I've tried holding it still. It wasn't the problem, the backplate doesn't move anyway. The post on the backplate moves and it has probably damaged the plastic of the backplate somewhat. Bad thing is, it doesn't even protrude enough for me to grab it and hold it still.

I don't think it's a matter of stripped screw threads to be honest. The screw itself just moves the post (Or nut or standoff or whatever it's called) that it screws into. It doesn't move relative to it, it's tight in there.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

sounds like the actual nut\post going into the backplate nut..has stripped that backplate nut..this happens when overtighting the actual post/standoff into the backplate..were all human and it happens..were allways eager to get our new toys installed...
try this:
1: remove everything from the case..cooler..mobo etc etc..
2: once mobo and cooler is out..youll have easier access to it all...remove all 3posts from the board/backplate..leaving only the 1 thats
playing hardball..
3: get yur thin nose plier..to the rear nut in the backplate and grab the actual nut holding the standoff
4: yu might need a friend to help hold the board or turn or how ever yu prefer..
5:make sure to grip that backplate nut firmly..then slowly.mms at a time start
turning the stand off with one hand while gripping the nut with plier st the rear
use a nonstatic clitch to cover the back of the board to prevent any damge should your grip slip
6nce yu feel the pressure drop and the two release tension..it shouldcome off fairly normal.

yu can do it in the case to but thats just asng
fir trouble with not enough space and other items in the way
post back once yu get it off...ask corsair also to replace the backplate and posts with older style hcooler ones .they dont have this issue.

hey rep..hows it going..please see emails..thanks
ps..my h100i is faulty .pump runs but not at max its stuck at 18-2000rpm...


----------



## Corsair Joseph

On the cooler's backplate, there's a silver stud where the thumsrews goes in to secure the bracket and pump on top of the CPU. Check the silver stud and make sure its inserted properly in the slot. Something like this;


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Corsair should maybe go back...to the old original backplate full metal


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> Corsair should maybe go back...to the old original backplate full metal


I agree!


----------



## tolis626

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> sounds like the actual nut\post going into the backplate nut..has stripped that backplate nut..this happens when overtighting the actual post/standoff into the backplate..were all human and it happens..were allways eager to get our new toys installed...
> try this:
> 1: remove everything from the case..cooler..mobo etc etc..
> 2: once mobo and cooler is out..youll have easier access to it all...remove all 3posts from the board/backplate..leaving only the 1 thats
> playing hardball..
> 3: get yur thin nose plier..to the rear nut in the backplate and grab the actual nut holding the standoff
> 4: yu might need a friend to help hold the board or turn or how ever yu prefer..
> 5:make sure to grip that backplate nut firmly..then slowly.mms at a time start
> turning the stand off with one hand while gripping the nut with plier st the rear
> use a nonstatic clitch to cover the back of the board to prevent any damge should your grip slip
> 6nce yu feel the pressure drop and the two release tension..it shouldcome off fairly normal.
> 
> yu can do it in the case to but thats just asng
> fir trouble with not enough space and other items in the way
> post back once yu get it off...ask corsair also to replace the backplate and posts with older style hcooler ones .they dont have this issue.
> 
> hey rep..hows it going..please see emails..thanks
> ps..my h100i is faulty .pump runs but not at max its stuck at 18-2000rpm...


I haven't tried removing everything from the case, but I don't see the need as it's really big and I have access to everything with enough room. Not the problem, at least not yet. I have, however, tried using pliers to immobilize the screw and it would slip. It doesn't protrude enough for me to grab it properly, so I try to grab it from its top. Nada, didn't work, it just added resistance to the spinning but it didn't stop it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> On the cooler's backplate, there's a silver stud where the thumsrews goes in to secure the bracket and pump on top of the CPU. Check the silver stud and make sure its inserted properly in the slot. Something like this;


That's the problem. The stud is in place and it spins when I try to unscrew the screw. It spins within its slot, pushing the plastic to the side, that's why I can't remove it. I'm afraid that it's the backplate itself that's damaged and is causing this.


----------



## klg1128

Hello all, just curious. Has anyone changed the stock fans on their coolers? I have the H80i v2 and was wondering if I could make it a bit more quiet and/or increase the cooling with different fans.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klg1128*
> 
> Hello all, just curious. Has anyone changed the stock fans on their coolers? I have the H80i v2 and was wondering if I could make it a bit more quiet and/or increase the cooling with different fans.


Have you tried just setting up a custom fan curve for them? They're actually really quiet if you tune them....


----------



## klg1128

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Have you tried just setting up a custom fan curve for them? They're actually really quiet if you tune them....


I haven't actually, is there a good curve you can recommend? I just noticed this feature btw








It is currently on balanced, I am changing it to quiet for the time being.
Also changed the lights to blue for added cooling


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klg1128*
> 
> I haven't actually, is there a good curve you can recommend? I just noticed this feature btw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is currently on balanced, I am changing it to quiet for the time being.


Yep, here's the one I use for mine:



Give it a shot, and depending on your ambient temps, it may need to be fine-tuned a little.... This at least gives you a decent starting point....


----------



## klg1128

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Yep, here's the one I use for mine:
> 
> 
> 
> Give it a shot, and depending on your ambient temps, it may need to be fine-tuned a little.... This at least gives you a decent starting point....


Awesome! Thanks alot!


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klg1128*
> 
> Awesome! Thanks alot!


Yeppers no worries! I actually like these fans, I even bought a 2nd pair of them on eBay....Hehehe....


----------



## Xen0nAU

Is the H105i considered part of this club? Cant find it on the form


----------



## n00b2ocing

Hi, I just installed the H110i GT on my 6700k but I've noticed that the fans are ridiculously loud when the CPU is under load even under the "Quiet" preset. Well, "ridiculously" might be overstating it, but I'm comparing it to my old Noctua D-14 cooler, which was whisper silent.

Not to mention the fact that even with this cooler, my temps go up as high as in the 80C range under the latest Prime95 and as high as the mid-70C range under Prime95 26.6 and in the high 60s (touching 70s) when under gaming load.

In comparison, my old Noctua D-14 cooler (an air cooler) barely hit the 60C mark under Prime95 and never crossed the 50C mark under gaming loads - only reason I moved to water cooling was for the looks (the Noctua heatsink is a gigantic monster and its fans are ugly).


----------



## Xen0nAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00b2ocing*
> 
> Hi, I just installed the H110i GT on my 6700k but I've noticed that the fans are ridiculously loud when the CPU is under load even under the "Quiet" preset. Well, "ridiculously" might be overstating it, but I'm comparing it to my old Noctua D-14 cooler, which was whisper silent.
> 
> Not to mention the fact that even with this cooler, my temps go up as high as in the 80C range under the latest Prime95 and as high as the mid-70C range under Prime95 26.6 and in the high 60s (touching 70s) when under gaming load.
> 
> In comparison, my old Noctua D-14 cooler (an air cooler) barely hit the 60C mark under Prime95 and never crossed the 50C mark under gaming loads - only reason I moved to water cooling was for the looks (the Noctua heatsink is a gigantic monster and its fans are ugly).


Are they also loud under idle or just under load?


----------



## n00b2ocing

They're not really loud under Idle but still louder than my old Noctuas, which were silent (I couldn't hear them unless I attached my head to the case lol).


----------



## Xen0nAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00b2ocing*
> 
> They're not really loud under Idle but still louder than my old Noctuas, which were silent (I couldn't hear them unless I attached my head to the case lol).


I've got a few idea's that might help

Is your radiator mounted horizontally or vertically?

Whats controlling your pump speeds and does the idle RPM seem normal?

Make sure if possible that your pump is at 100% in the BIOS

Have you got the pump plugged into the CPU FAN/OPT header?


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00b2ocing*
> 
> Hi, I just installed the H110i GT on my 6700k but I've noticed that the fans are ridiculously loud when the CPU is under load even under the "Quiet" preset. Well, "ridiculously" might be overstating it, but I'm comparing it to my old Noctua D-14 cooler, which was whisper silent.
> 
> Not to mention the fact that even with this cooler, my temps go up as high as in the 80C range under the latest Prime95 and as high as the mid-70C range under Prime95 26.6 and in the high 60s (touching 70s) when under gaming load.
> 
> In comparison, my old Noctua D-14 cooler (an air cooler) barely hit the 60C mark under Prime95 and never crossed the 50C mark under gaming loads - only reason I moved to water cooling was for the looks (the Noctua heatsink is a gigantic monster and its fans are ugly).


Those temps don't sound right. How high are you overclocking?
I have a 6700k and a h100i v2 and on stock under stress tests I've never seen it go above 54C

You may need to remount or make sure it's tightened enough to the backplate. Don't over tighten though


----------



## n00b2ocing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xen0nAU*
> 
> I've got a few idea's that might help
> 
> Is your radiator mounted horizontally or vertically?
> 
> Whats controlling your pump speeds and does the idle RPM seem normal?
> 
> Make sure if possible that your pump is at 100% in the BIOS
> 
> Have you got the pump plugged into the CPU FAN/OPT header?


It's mounted horizontally on the top of the case in a push configuration (fans on top, pushing outside air in to radiator).

My pump is being controlled by the Corsair link software that I have installed. I didn't realize that you can change that stuff in the BIOS. Will see what happens.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> Those temps don't sound right. How high are you overclocking?
> I have a 6700k and a h100i v2 and on stock under stress tests I've never seen it go above 54C
> 
> You may need to remount or make sure it's tightened enough to the backplate. Don't over tighten though


I'll try a remount if it doesn't improve because those temps at load seemed a bit too high to me but I was told on Reddit that they're fine but I wasn't convinced.

I'm not overclocking at all. Those temps are at stock...


----------



## Xen0nAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00b2ocing*
> 
> It's mounted horizontally on the top of the case in a push configuration (fans on top, pushing outside air in to radiator).
> 
> My pump is being controlled by the Corsair link software that I have installed. I didn't realize that you can change that stuff in the BIOS. Will see what happens.
> I'll try a remount if it doesn't improve because those temps at load seemed a bit too high to me but I was told on Reddit that they're fine but I wasn't convinced.
> 
> I'm not overclocking at all. Those temps are at stock...


Are you using the CPU (6700k) listed in your PC build in your signature? I don't think those CPU's should be getting that hot under load at all would be more normal between 50-65 depending on what your doing at the time of the load. Yeah have a look into your BIOS and see if you have any pump settings in there


----------



## juniordnz

Could anyone with a new corsair WC measure the base of the pump and tell me the exact value in MM? Can't seem to find that anywhere, they only provide the measure of the rad


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00b2ocing*
> 
> It's mounted horizontally on the top of the case in a push configuration (fans on top, pushing outside air in to radiator).
> 
> My pump is being controlled by the Corsair link software that I have installed. I didn't realize that you can change that stuff in the BIOS. Will see what happens.
> I'll try a remount if it doesn't improve because those temps at load seemed a bit too high to me but I was told on Reddit that they're fine but I wasn't convinced.
> 
> I'm not overclocking at all. Those temps are at stock...


Yeah brother those aren't fine - in corsair link does it say what pump speed it's running at and what does it say the fluid temperature is? Also do you have a photo of how clear the airflow is in your case?


----------



## Mergatroid

Because of the animated banner add that has been added to the mobile webpage, I will no longer contribute since I was mostly helping out in my spare time at work, from my phone. If ocn ever removes that banner I may be back to contribute again.


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Because of the animated banner add that has been added to the mobile webpage, I will no longer contribute since I was mostly helping out in my spare time at work, from my phone. If ocn ever removes that banner I may be back to contribute again.


I run in full page mode full time because of that


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00b2ocing*
> 
> I'll try a remount if it doesn't improve because those temps at load seemed a bit too high to me but I was told on Reddit that they're fine but I wasn't convinced.
> 
> I'm not overclocking at all. Those temps are at stock...


It was probably poor contact between the cooler's colplate and CPU. Once you have reseated the pump, let us know if there are any changes in your temps.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tolis626*
> 
> That's the problem. The stud is in place and it spins when I try to unscrew the screw. It spins within its slot, pushing the plastic to the side, that's why I can't remove it. I'm afraid that it's the backplate itself that's damaged and is causing this.


The stud spins within the slot? I can only see this happening is when the backplate's socket slots are all worn out. This is the first time I'm hearing this which a bit unusual. Can you take a photo and share it here?


----------



## Bdonedge

So I have a h100i v2 and the 400C case - I have bent the hoses as much as I feel comfortable doing but they stick out enough that it hits the door and I have to push the door close and it shoves the hoses and they rest on the side panel. Is there a better way to achieve to moving it out of the way of my side panel? Or will the pressure of the side panel not do anything and just leave it alone


----------



## juniordnz

Peeps, a quick one: asetek or coolit?

AI have been a happy owner of a H80i (coolit) and planning to get a 280mm rad. Which one is the best quality and should last longer?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> The stud spins within the slot? I can only see this happening is when the back plate's socket slots are all worn out. This is the first time I'm hearing this which a bit unusual. Can you take a photo and share it here?


it has happened numerous times with earlier versions of this...type of back plate...the older style back plate when the h coolers came out 1st..is still the best way to go....it was easy..sturdy and metal at least...dint know why you/corsair just continues with that instead ?

Rep please see emails....theres an issue with my h100i pump....its not doing its job as suppose too...


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> So I have a h100i v2 and the 400C case - I have bent the hoses as much as I feel comfortable doing but they stick out enough that it hits the door and I have to push the door close and it shoves the hoses and they rest on the side panel. Is there a better way to achieve to moving it out of the way of my side panel? Or will the pressure of the side panel not do anything and just leave it alone


I'd leave it as is, those tubes are pretty rigid, the side panel pushing it inwards will not affect its form at any point.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> Peeps, a quick one: asetek or coolit?
> 
> AI have been a happy owner of a H80i (coolit) and planning to get a 280mm rad. Which one is the best quality and should last longer?


I'd go H115i.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> Rep please see emails....theres an issue with my h100i pump....its not doing its job as suppose too...


I'll reply to your email


----------



## n00b2ocing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xen0nAU*
> 
> Are you using the CPU (6700k) listed in your PC build in your signature? I don't think those CPU's should be getting that hot under load at all would be more normal between 50-65 depending on what your doing at the time of the load. Yeah have a look into your BIOS and see if you have any pump settings in there


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> It was probably poor contact between the cooler's colplate and CPU. Once you have reseated the pump, let us know if there are any changes in your temps.


I remounted the heatsink and saw that the TIM (I'm using AS5) was unevenly spread (I placed a rice sized dab in the middle and had let the heatsink do the spreading). This time, I used a credit card to even out the TIM but it hits 75 max on Prime95 26.6 and still not near the 60C I thought remounting would do (it hits 84C!!! on the latest Prime95 within seconds).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> Yeah brother those aren't fine - in corsair link does it say what pump speed it's running at and what does it say the fluid temperature is? Also do you have a photo of how clear the airflow is in your case?


Pump speed at ~2800rpm (Performance mode for pump) and the fluid temp doesn't go above 29.7C on stress testing (balanced mode for both fans). Does that indicate problem with heat transfer? Might be an obvious answer, don't hit me lol.

As for a diagram, here's something I did in paint lol

Untitled.png 19k .png file


The two 140mm case fans are mounted in the front for intake because there was no space for a rear 140mm exhaust. I also changed the config to an exhaust instead of an intake since my case itself is pretty cool.

If someone could suggest what stress test to use I also tried the Intel Diagnostic test and the temps didn't go over 60C with that so I have no clue which one is the most reliable test.


----------



## n00b2ocing

Welp...I'm officially a moron.......................................

I had mounted the backplate upside down.


































Temps now in the mid-60s under Prime95 stress test.


----------



## Xen0nAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00b2ocing*
> 
> Welp...I'm officially a moron.......................................
> 
> I had mounted the backplate upside down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps now in the mid-60s under Prime95 stress test.


Haha! That's gold







Glad you've got it all sorted out.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

We all make mistakes man, it happens









I am just t glad you've got it all sorted out.


----------



## VSG

Glad it worked out, and trust me- everyone has these moments


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> I'll reply to your email


replied...along with rma ticket for my request to replace this unit to new or better option....cant risk using this unit and frying chips...


----------



## LikesToSlide

For the h100i v2, Corsair annoyingly included a left angle USB mini B cable with this cooler preventing me from routing and bundling it with the fan and power wires. Fortunately I found this: http://www.usbfirewire.com/parts/rr-2mbr01-xxglx.html

..and then while I was swapping the cable, just for kicks, I decided to try booting without the USB connection. Turn out it's not needed for the cooler to function! It's just for the Corsair link software, meaning as long as you don't need a custom fan curve or to change the LED, you don't need the USB connection.


----------



## juniordnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LikesToSlide*
> 
> For the h100i v2, Corsair annoyingly included a left angle USB mini B cable with this cooler preventing me from routing and bundling it with the fan and power wires. Fortunately I found this: http://www.usbfirewire.com/parts/rr-2mbr01-xxglx.html
> 
> ..and then while I was swapping the cable, just for kicks, I decided to try booting without the USB connection. Turn out it's not needed for the cooler to function! It's just for the Corsair link software, meaning as long as you don't need a custom fan curve or to change the LED, you don't need the USB connection.


Also, if you change the led coolor, you can shut it down, remove the cable and the color scheme you set will stay. Been using my H80i for almost two years without the corsair link nonsense installed and no cables coming out of the pump.


----------



## LikesToSlide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> Also, if you change the led coolor, you can shut it down, remove the cable and the color scheme you set will stay.


Right! This actually indicates they included some amount of flash memory in the unit and it might have been possible to store the custom fan curves there as well.


----------



## juniordnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LikesToSlide*
> 
> Right! This actually indicates they included some amount of flash memory in the unit and it might have been possible to store the custom fan curves there as well.


Or...you can hook up the fans directly to the CPU_FAN on the mobo and create a fan curve in the mobo BIOS.

That's how I use mine. Only the pump, the pump only, nothing else on it.


----------



## Mugen87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> Or...you can hook up the fans directly to the CPU_FAN on the mobo and create a fan curve in the mobo BIOS.
> 
> That's how I use mine. Only the pump, the pump only, nothing else on it.


I have been eyeing a h80i v2 the past couple weeks. It is possible to run everything off the Mobo? I been running Linux mainly and I won't have access to the software.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mugen87*
> 
> I have been eyeing a h80i v2 the past couple weeks. It is possible to run everything off the Mobo? I been running Linux mainly and I won't have access to the software.


Yeah, I run my H110i GT without Link just off the mobo. Plug pump header into a chasis fan header(it only have 1 wire so it will run full capacity no matter what) and both fans into 4 pin PWM headers(one of them have to go in the CPU fan header, the SATA power cable for the pump is still connected of course. my M8Ranger Mobo have a dedicated 3 pin for pump and 2 4 pin for CPU so it was rather easy.


----------



## LikesToSlide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mugen87*
> 
> I have been eyeing a h80i v2 the past couple weeks. It is possible to run everything off the Mobo? I been running Linux mainly and I won't have access to the software.


While it is possible- the +12V is present on the mainboard fan header, I wouldn't do that if I were you. #1 you'll be taxing the power output of the mainboard. The limit for this is specific to your board but 1A is a typical rule of thumb. And #2 there's some anecdotal evidence that when the pumps on these fail they short the power to ground. A good PSU has protections against such a short but a mainboard fan header doesn't.


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LikesToSlide*
> 
> While it is possible- the +12V is present on the mainboard fan header, I wouldn't do that if I were you. #1 you'll be taxing the power output of the mainboard. The limit for this is specific to your board but 1A is a typical rule of thumb. And #2 there's some anecdotal evidence that when the pumps on these fail they short the power to ground. A good PSU has protections against such a short but a mainboard fan header doesn't.


I'm a little confused. Doesn't Corsair recommend plugging the pump directly into the CPU fan header?

So your suggestion is to plug it in directly to a molex/fan connection from the PSU and disable the motherboard's alert for no CPU fan?


----------



## Mugen87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> I'm a little confused. Doesn't Corsair recommend plugging the pump directly into the CPU fan header?
> 
> So your suggestion is to plug it in directly to a molex/fan connection from the PSU and disable the motherboard's alert for no CPU fan?


Same, I figured pump to cpu header on full and fans to 2 other own headers (if available)?
Is it cool to use a splitter of a Mobo fan header for the 2 fans?


----------



## LikesToSlide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> I'm a little confused. Doesn't Corsair recommend plugging the pump directly into the CPU fan header?
> 
> So your suggestion is to plug it in directly to a molex/fan connection from the PSU and disable the motherboard's alert for no CPU fan?


I chose to use something like this molex fan connector, disable my mainboard alert for cpu fan, and enable my mainboard alert for cpu temperature. But I'm being overly cautious doing it this way. Most likely you could follow Corsair's advice and be just fine.


----------



## SkateZilla

Ok, Gotta Question for a Corsair Rep..

So I Bought an H100 on 2/9/2013, From NewEgg (Corsair CWCH100)

I'm not sure what the warranty period/terms are as NewEgg and other E-Tailers show different amount of yrs

Earlier This Year, The Pump Failed (Unit was Lit up and Fans were Running), but CPU Temp out of no where began to rise at Idle and eventually hit the cut off temp for the Safety Feature of the Mainboard.

This turned the supplied TIM into Cement pretty much, and we had to carefully lift the CPU out of the socket while cemented to the Waterblock.

So Now I Have a Dysfunct H100, with a AMD FX8120 Stuck to it.

What Are my options if any via warranty services?

I also have another H100 that the LED Quit working on, and the CPU Temps on that Unit have slowly begun to rise, I'm guessing the Fluid Levels are declining or the pump is failing etc.
This unit is about 1 yr older, bought from tiger direct on 01/22/2012. (Corsair CWCH100)


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkateZilla*
> 
> Ok, Gotta Question for a Corsair Rep..
> 
> So I Bought an H100 on 2/9/2013, From NewEgg (Corsair CWCH100)
> 
> I'm not sure what the warranty period/terms are as NewEgg and other E-Tailers show different amount of yrs
> 
> Earlier This Year, The Pump Failed (Unit was Lit up and Fans were Running), but CPU Temp out of no where began to rise at Idle and eventually hit the cut off temp for the Safety Feature of the Mainboard.
> 
> This turned the supplied TIM into Cement pretty much, and we had to carefully lift the CPU out of the socket while cemented to the Waterblock.
> 
> So Now I Have a Dysfunct H100, with a AMD FX8120 Stuck to it.
> 
> What Are my options if any via warranty services?
> 
> I also have another H100 that the LED Quit working on, and the CPU Temps on that Unit have slowly begun to rise, I'm guessing the Fluid Levels are declining or the pump is failing etc.
> This unit is about 1 yr older, bought from tiger direct on 01/22/2012. (Corsair CWCH100)


I feel like you could pry that CPU off with a knife if you're careful


----------



## SkateZilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> I feel like you could pry that CPU off with a knife if you're careful


We tried for 9 hours, no dice, with moderate force (not trying to destroy the chip).

Even used QTip to Put Artic Clean Solution on the surface to breakdown the TIM, and tried using Floss, didnt work either, wouldnt budge, floss couldnt get under it to separate, it sealed off every edge nicely when it solidified, not even with a rubber grip pip wrench, exacto knife, etc.

The Substrate Package has likely cracked from IHS when we pulled it off to save the mainboard, as the locking mech was underneath the water block, we had to slowly pull it out of the socket without unclamping it.

It was an 8100 Series FX Chip, so it's no big loss, but I was looking at any options to save some investment.


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkateZilla*
> 
> We tried for 9 hours, no dice, with moderate force (not trying to destroy the chip).
> 
> Even used QTip to Put Artic Clean Solution on the surface to breakdown the TIM, and tried using Floss, didnt work either, wouldnt budge, floss couldnt get under it to separate, it sealed off every edge nicely when it solidified, not even with a rubber grip pip wrench, exacto knife, etc.
> 
> The Substrate Package has likely cracked from IHS when we pulled it off to save the mainboard, as the locking mech was underneath the water block, we had to slowly pull it out of the socket without unclamping it.
> 
> It was an 8100 Series FX Chip, so it's no big loss, but I was looking at any options to save some investment.


That's gnarly - I didn't think TIM could even get that hard. Floss was a real clever idea. Not sure if I would have thought of that

Side note - I live in Norfolk!
Stay safe in this heat!


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LikesToSlide*
> 
> While it is possible- the +12V is present on the mainboard fan header, I wouldn't do that if I were you. #1 you'll be taxing the power output of the mainboard. The limit for this is specific to your board but 1A is a typical rule of thumb. And #2 there's some anecdotal evidence that when the pumps on these fail they short the power to ground. A good PSU has protections against such a short but a mainboard fan header doesn't.


First, I would like to point out to everyone that the banner ad seems to be gone.

As for using the motherboard fan headers, this works perfectly and does not cause any strain on a motherboard. I have used this method since the days of the original H50 and it works perfectly. My mother board has software for creating fan curves and can also control the rest of the fans based on temperature sensors on the board. This is actually better than using the link software since it never malfunctions. Many newer (last five years) motherboards will either have two CPU fan headers or a CPU and an AUX fan header that can be tied together in BIOS so they operate at the same RPM. If a person does not have this, they can use a PWM fan splitter which will allow you to run two PWM fans from one header and still maintain RPM control. If you want to use four fans for push/pull you can use a four or more PWM splitter and it will use a molex connector from the PSU for power while still plugging all four fans into the CPU header on the board so all four fans operate at the same RPM.
This is a tried and true method for controlling rad fans for water coolers. In fact, earlier in this thread there are extensive discussions on this very issue including a diagram I made and posted on how to make your own PWM splitter with the molex power option.
I have also used the motherboard pwr fan header for the pump on every build using an AIO water cooler without any issues. On older units the pump wire also had the RPM wire so you could trust the motherboard alarm to tell you if the pump failed. It's really too bad they removed that wire. However, the current draw from the pump is low enough to not cause any problems on any motherboard I have used. I have done over 30 installations like this in the last few years (likely more) without a single failure.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkateZilla*
> 
> We tried for 9 hours, no dice, with moderate force (not trying to destroy the chip).
> 
> Even used QTip to Put Artic Clean Solution on the surface to breakdown the TIM, and tried using Floss, didnt work either, wouldnt budge, floss couldnt get under it to separate, it sealed off every edge nicely when it solidified, not even with a rubber grip pip wrench, exacto knife, etc.
> 
> The Substrate Package has likely cracked from IHS when we pulled it off to save the mainboard, as the locking mech was underneath the water block, we had to slowly pull it out of the socket without unclamping it.
> 
> It was an 8100 Series FX Chip, so it's no big loss, but I was looking at any options to save some investment.


Use a hair dryer or a heat gun to heat up the CPU and block. Eventually it will soften up enough to pull the CPU off.

Sorry about the double post.


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> First, I would like to point out to everyone that the banner ad seems to be gone.
> 
> As for using the motherboard fan headers, this works perfectly and does not cause any strain on a motherboard. I have used this method since the days of the original H50 and it works perfectly. My mother board has software for creating fan curves and can also control the rest of the fans based on temperature sensors on the board. This is actually better than using the link software since it never malfunctions. Many newer (last five years) motherboards will either have two CPU fan headers or a CPU and an AUX fan header that can be tied together in BIOS so they operate at the same RPM. If a person does not have this, they can use a PWM fan splitter which will allow you to run two PWM fans from one header and still maintain RPM control. If you want to use four fans for push/pull you can use a four or more PWM splitter and it will use a molex connector from the PSU for power while still plugging all four fans into the CPU header on the board so all four fans operate at the same RPM.
> This is a tried and true method for controlling rad fans for water coolers. In fact, earlier in this thread there are extensive discussions on this very issue including a diagram I made and posted on how to make your own PWM splitter with the molex power option.
> I have also used the motherboard pwr fan header for the pump on every build using an AIO water cooler without any issues. On older units the pump wire also had the RPM wire so you could trust the motherboard alarm to tell you if the pump failed. It's really too bad they removed that wire. However, the current draw from the pump is low enough to not cause any problems on any motherboard I have used. I have done over 30 installations like this in the last few years (likely more) without a single failure.


Thank you for the saying this. Was looking at my
Comp right now opened up thinking about moving it to the PSU - decided against it because of this. I have a nice motherboard and I would assume the voltage control through it is just fine


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Hi rep..need assistance with rma please..already sent the rma code to you...


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> Thank you for the saying this. Was looking at my
> Comp right now opened up thinking about moving it to the PSU - decided against it because of this. I have a nice motherboard and I would assume the voltage control through it is just fine


As SkateZilla mentioned though, you can overtax your motherboard if you draw too much current from a fan header. A couple of Corsair fans on a splitter would likely be fine, just check the current draw of the fans and verify that the maximum power output of the fan header can handle it. Most fans are no problem in singles, but if you start adding multiple fans you should use the molex power option.
If you build your own splitter be sure the tac line only goes to one fan (the "master" fan). If each fan returns a tac signal on one line, they get added together and the motherboard will no longer be able to tell how fast the fans are going. Of course, the disadvantage to a pwm splitter is if one of the slave fans starts going bad the motherboard will not be able to report it because they are not returning a tac signal. So check your fans once in a while and keep them clean. Or just use separate headers on the motherboard and each fan will report it's speed.


----------



## kariverson

I feel cheated







There is no Hydro series H70 in the application form


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> As SkateZilla mentioned though, you can overtax your motherboard if you draw too much current from a fan header. A couple of Corsair fans on a splitter would likely be fine, just check the current draw of the fans and verify that the maximum power output of the fan header can handle it. Most fans are no problem in singles, but if you start adding multiple fans you should use the molex power option.
> If you build your own splitter be sure the tac line only goes to one fan (the "master" fan). If each fan returns a tac signal on one line, they get added together and the motherboard will no longer be able to tell how fast the fans are going. Of course, the disadvantage to a pwm splitter is if one of the slave fans starts going bad the motherboard will not be able to report it because they are not returning a tac signal. So check your fans once in a while and keep them clean. Or just use separate headers on the motherboard and each fan will report it's speed.


I'm using the h100i v2 so it's the pump as well as a fan splitter running two. I'm going to probably switch to power supply then


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> As SkateZilla mentioned though, you can overtax your motherboard if you draw too much current from a fan header. A couple of Corsair fans on a splitter would likely be fine, just check the current draw of the fans and verify that the maximum power output of the fan header can handle it. Most fans are no problem in singles, but if you start adding multiple fans you should use the molex power option.
> If you build your own splitter be sure the tac line only goes to one fan (the "master" fan). If each fan returns a tac signal on one line, they get added together and the motherboard will no longer be able to tell how fast the fans are going. Of course, the disadvantage to a pwm splitter is if one of the slave fans starts going bad the motherboard will not be able to report it because they are not returning a tac signal. So check your fans once in a while and keep them clean. Or just use separate headers on the motherboard and each fan will report it's speed.


Actually how do I check how much current is being drawn from the mobo header


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> Actually how do I check how much current is being drawn from the mobo header


The fans should give an amperage in their specs or a wattage.
Just remember pie. P=IE where P=Watts, I=current in Amps and E= "Electromotive Force" in Volts.
Using the specs of the fans will give you two of those variables, allowing you to calculate the third. So if they give you the Amps just look it up in your motherboard manual, if they give you watts, then calculate the amps using 12V for the voltage.


----------



## SkateZilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Use a hair dryer or a heat gun to heat up the CPU and block. Eventually it will soften up enough to pull the CPU off.
> 
> Sorry about the double post.


Pretty much wrote it off at this point as I know the unit is old, likely out of warranty, and non-functional, the CPU is likely cracked.

I might put the extra fans to good use, but the unit is in a box with some foam covering the chip that's stuck on it.

Was just curious if it would be covered under the warranty claim at that age, likely not, and I'm not really sad to see the 1st gen FX CPU go... it was horrid, even when overclocked...

My next build will be a Zen CPU Build, but likely a different water cooling setup. (another Corsair, just havent figure out which).


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> The fans should give an amperage in their specs or a wattage.
> Just remember pie. P=IE where P=Watts, I=current in Amps and E= "Electromotive Force" in Volts.
> Using the specs of the fans will give you two of those variables, allowing you to calculate the third. So if they give you the Amps just look it up in your motherboard manual, if they give you watts, then calculate the amps using 12V for the voltage.


That's a great little bit of advice. How consistent is the power supplied through a molex to a splitter, though? So one splitter supplying power to 2 fans as well as the pump


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> That's a great little bit of advice. How consistent is the power supplied through a molex to a splitter, though? So one splitter supplying power to 2 fans as well as the pump


The power is consistent enough for a hard drive. Some fans and a pump should be no problem. You can get PWM splitters almost anywhere. Just make sure the one you get has the molex power cable, and also make sure that the slave fans only have three wires and not four. Some manufacturers get that wrong.


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> As SkateZilla mentioned though, you can overtax your motherboard if you draw too much current from a fan header. A couple of Corsair fans on a splitter would likely be fine, just check the current draw of the fans and verify that the maximum power output of the fan header can handle it. Most fans are no problem in singles, but if you start adding multiple fans you should use the molex power option.
> If you build your own splitter be sure the tac line only goes to one fan (the "master" fan). If each fan returns a tac signal on one line, they get added together and the motherboard will no longer be able to tell how fast the fans are going. Of course, the disadvantage to a pwm splitter is if one of the slave fans starts going bad the motherboard will not be able to report it because they are not returning a tac signal. So check your fans once in a while and keep them clean. Or just use separate headers on the motherboard and each fan will report it's speed.


hey I'm actually revisiting this post because every AIO I've seen talk about is different from the one that I have.

I'm using the H100i v2 - on this particular model the pump plugs into the CPU fan header, and from the block/pump there is a splitter coming from that for the 2 fans. Therefore its safe to assume the CPU fan header is supplying power to the pump as well as 2 fans.

I barely understand how electricity works; the constant 12V supplied by the motherboard is being given to the pump - is that saying that the pump also has to provide 12V of constant power for the 2 fans?


----------



## Gladi

Does the H100i v2 not also has a SATA Power cable plugged in?
That supplies the power..


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gladi*
> 
> Does the H100i v2 not also has a SATA Power cable plugged in?
> That supplies the power..


It doesn't.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> It doesn't.


It must have. The H100I V2 also uses the Corsair link, so therefor it must have at least a USB connector for the link software. So that's two. There is no way they would run two fans plus the pump from the CPU fan headers. That could overtax the header and ruin the motherboard. I haven't installed that particular model but I bet if I google it I would confirm it has USB, CPU and power connectors. I did look it up on Corsairs site but I didn't locate any connection instructions. Check the instructions that came with it.


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> It must have. The H100I V2 also uses the Corsair link, so therefor it must have at least a USB connector for the link software. So that's two. There is no way they would run two fans plus the pump from the CPU fan headers. That could overtax the header and ruin the motherboard. I haven't installed that particular model but I bet if I google it I would confirm it has USB, CPU and power connectors. I did look it up on Corsairs site but I didn't locate any connection instructions. Check the instructions that came with it.


It only has the USB and CPU fan connector


----------



## Gladi

Since I have that cooler at home but not unpacked you really made me unpack it.

And you are right, only USB and 4-pin pump/fan header.
No extra SATA power plug.
I must have mixed that up with a different Corsair cooler.
Sorry.

So it gets power over USB connection and the 4-pin.
Man those hoses are stiff..


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gladi*
> 
> Man those hoses are stiff..


Bro - tell me about it.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> It only has the USB and CPU fan connector


So now we know that, indeed, it looks as though the two fans and the pump are all being run from the CPU fan header. This seems like too much of a power draw to me. The two fans may take up to an app at full speed and the pump power would also have to be factored in.
I doubt that USB header is being used for power since it's only 5v. I doubt they have a 5v pump, although anything is possible. Still, the cable going to the CPU header could be unplugged and, using a pwm splitter, you could plug your fans into the CPU header and the remaining cable into a case or power fan header if you so desired. This would allow you to control the fan speeds in BIOS if you wanted to, or use your motherboard software for controlling the fans.


----------



## Gladi

I went onto the Corsair Forums and asked

Here is the quote:

ITS NOT A OFFICAL


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> The H100iV2 get's it's power from the 3-pin fan connector that you should plug into the motherboard CPU_FAN header. It needs a constant +12 volts and uses <= 1.0 amps.
> 
> Note that you must disable fan control for the CPU_FAN header in the BIOS so it get's this.
> 
> The 4-pin USB connection is just used to control the H100iV2.






So yeah 12V over CPU_FAN.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> It must have. The H100I V2 also uses the Corsair link, so therefor it must have at least a USB connector for the link software. So that's two. There is no way they would run two fans plus the pump from the CPU fan headers. That could overtax the header and ruin the motherboard. I haven't installed that particular model but I bet if I google it I would confirm it has USB, CPU and power connectors. I did look it up on Corsairs site but I didn't locate any connection instructions. Check the instructions that came with it.


You said SATA power connector, not USB. That's why I said 'It doesn't'. It only has a fan header to the motherboard and 1 USB connector to the motherboard for the Link software, that's all.

Trust me. I have this Hydro cooler, I know what it looks like and what connectors it has or has not.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> You said SATA power connector, not USB. That's why I said 'It doesn't'. It only has a fan header to the motherboard and 1 USB connector to the motherboard for the Link software, that's all.
> 
> Trust me. I have this Hydro cooler, I know what it looks like and what connectors it has or has not.


Yeah, we came to that conclusion over the last few posts.
I don't think I would purchase an AIO cooler that pulls all its power from the CPU fan header, but I suppose bit must be safe or they wouldn't have done it. It does restrict what fans you can use as anything over a half Amp at full speed would be ruled out. Lucky Corsair has such a large selection now, they still have versions that don't use the Link and still connect the way earlier models do.
Of course people could still unplug the fans from the pump and plug them in elsewhere if they wanted to.


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Yeah, we came to that conclusion over the last few posts.
> I don't think I would purchase an AIO cooler that pulls all its power from the CPU fan header, but I suppose bit must be safe or they wouldn't have done it. It does restrict what fans you can use as anything over a half Amp at full speed would be ruled out. Lucky Corsair has such a large selection now, they still have versions that don't use the Link and still connect the way earlier models do.
> Of course people could still unplug the fans from the pump and plug them in elsewhere if they wanted to.


I purchased a Molex to fan connector - couldn't find a sata to fan connector. Is there a dummy plug I can use to plug into the CPU fan header so it doesn't go off/not turn on?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> I purchased a Molex to fan connector - couldn't find a sata to fan connector. Is there a dummy plug I can use to plug into the CPU fan header so it doesn't go off/not turn on?


If you're not using it then go into BIOS and disable the monitoring of the CPU fan header.


----------



## Mugen87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> I purchased a Molex to fan connector - couldn't find a sata to fan connector. Is there a dummy plug I can use to plug into the CPU fan header so it doesn't go off/not turn on?


Do you mean you connected the pump direct to the psu via the adapter?


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mugen87*
> 
> Do you mean you connected the pump direct to the psu via the adapter?


Yup exactly


----------



## NiKiZ

My H110i GT pump sometimes makes some weird rattling noise. Sounds like an old hard drive writing stuff to the disk. Is this a serious problem?


----------



## GrumpyOne

Can't be good. Probably a failing bearing.


----------



## NiKiZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrumpyOne*
> 
> Can't be good. Probably a failing bearing.


Yeah, I might RMA it soon. I am glad, that I didn't sell my air cooler yet.







The pump was pretty loud even without the rattle.


----------



## GrumpyOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiKiZ*
> 
> Yeah, I might RMA it soon. I am glad, that I didn't sell my air cooler yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pump was pretty loud even without the rattle.


My first one was a bit loud too, didn't take any chances and returned it to Microcenter.

I also keep my old trusty 212+ juuust in case this happens one day


----------



## Sirstiv

Hey guys,

Just like to add that after 3 years of working... My H80i PUMP is starting to die.

Both pipes work. (Hot and Cold)
Pump runs @ 2300rpm with clicking rattle sound
Fans work.
I reseated and added rubber gromets on the back of the mobo/h80i backplate (no difference)

CPU overheats to 70-99degrees (delidded with CLU on die). [Haswell]

Took it off... put a giant air cooler on (thermaltake big typhoon)... back to 28-32 degrees -.-
The air cooler was an LGA775 cooler I had as a spare... it's not even bolted down and getting great temps LOL.

Trying to claim warranty on it now. I assume corsair has a 5 year warranty clause? or is that only if you bough this year?


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sirstiv*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Just like to add that after 3 years of working... My H80i PUMP is starting to die.
> 
> Both pipes work. (Hot and Cold)
> Pump runs @ 2300rpm with clicking rattle sound
> Fans work.
> I reseated and added rubber gromets on the back of the mobo/h80i backplate (no difference)
> 
> CPU overheats to 70-99degrees (delidded with CLU on die). [Haswell]
> 
> Took it off... put a giant air cooler on (thermaltake big typhoon)... back to 28-32 degrees -.-
> The air cooler was an LGA775 cooler I had as a spare... it's not even bolted down and getting great temps LOL.
> 
> Trying to claim warranty on it now. I assume corsair has a 5 year warranty clause? or is that only if you bough this year?


Nope it's 5 years for every Hydro cooler. Had issues with my H70 Core and after making a claim I sent it back to Corsair and they sent me a brand new H75 as replacement after a week. Corsair customer support is great.


----------



## GrumpyOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> Nope it's 5 years for every Hydro cooler. Had issues with my H70 Core and after making a claim I sent it back to Corsair and they sent me a brand new H75 as replacement after a week. Corsair customer support is great.


A week? I just finished dealing with TP-Link's CS and I'll never buy anything from them again, took 2 months.

I hope that my coolers don't fail but at least I know that there won't be much downtime/


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrumpyOne*
> 
> A week? I just finished dealing with TP-Link's CS and I'll never buy anything from them again, took 2 months.
> 
> I hope that my coolers don't fail but at least I know that there won't be much downtime/


Yup, exact a week. Customer support from Corsair is the best.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i just had to share

finally hit the mother load

if there are any other Fellow brothers from SA...here is the guy to go too for custom cables at very affordable prices

https://beyondcustoms.net/collections/custom-modular-cables


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrumpyOne*
> 
> A week? I just finished dealing with TP-Link's CS and I'll never buy anything from them again, took 2 months.
> 
> I hope that my coolers don't fail but at least I know that there won't be much downtime/


Sorry to hear about your cooler. But yeah, a week normally is the turn around time. And if you really want zero downtime, you can always call in ask for Express RMA where we can send you the replacement first before you send us back the faulty unit.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiKiZ*
> 
> My H110i GT pump sometimes makes some weird rattling noise. Sounds like an old hard drive writing stuff to the disk. Is this a serious problem?


It's possible that the pump is failing, so it's best that you get that unit replaced.

Keep an eye on your CPU temp, the moment that you see extremely high CPU temp on idle, that's the time you send it to RMA.


----------



## GrumpyOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Sorry to hear about your cooler. But yeah, a week normally is the turn around time. And if you really want zero downtime, you can always call in ask for Express RMA where we can send you the replacement first before you send us back the faulty unit.


Awesome to hear, this is why I buy Corsair stuff.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrumpyOne*
> 
> Awesome to hear, this is why I buy Corsair stuff.


Evga and corsair have the best customer service out there!


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> Nope it's 5 years for every Hydro cooler. Had issues with my H70 Core and after making a claim I sent it back to Corsair and they sent me a brand new H75 as replacement after a week. Corsair customer support is great.


Agreed. I had a faulty mouse I bought for Xmas a few years ago. When I contacted them they had me send the old one off and a week later the new one arrived.


----------



## juniordnz

Is it worth it to trade the SP120 fans that come with H100i V2 for Cougar HP?

Is that going to mean better cooling/noise ratio or should I just stick with SP120 and tweak the RPM?

I don't have access to high quality fans like noctua or vardar where I live (would have to sell a kidney to pay for it).


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> Is it worth it to trade the SP120 fans that come with H100i V2 for Cougar HP?


I'm not familiar with the Cougar HP spec so I don't know if that's going to be an upgrade if you go that route.

Is there anything wrong with your SP120L fans? You can always use Corsair Link and perhaps tweak the rpm to lower down the noise to your liking.


----------



## juniordnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> I'm not familiar with the Cougar HP spec so I don't know if that's going to be an upgrade if you go that route.
> 
> Is there anything wrong with your SP120L fans? You can always use Corsair Link and perhaps tweak the rpm to lower down the noise to your liking.


Nothing wrong with my SP120L, they are working as expected. They are just too loud for me. I must keep them at 50% RPM so they doesn't get too loud. Anything above that becomes annoying. That's me of course, other may be more tolerant to noise.

I just don't have access to other brands like the ones I mentioned above here in Brazil. I could easilly get some very affordable Cougar CF-V12HP that are rated 2.2mmH20/18db (they are silent, but not THAT silent I believe) or buy another pair of SP120L to run push/pull at lower RPM (but I guess the noise would be multiplied by 2, I don't know if that would work). SP120L are rated 4,5mmH20/38db.

I don't expect you to advise me into another brand, though. So if you could help as much as possible in your position, I'd appreciate a lot!


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> Nothing wrong with my SP120L, they are working as expected. They are just too loud for me. I must keep them at 50% RPM so they doesn't get too loud. Anything above that becomes annoying. That's me of course, other may be more tolerant to noise.
> 
> I just don't have access to other brands like the ones I mentioned above here in Brazil. I could easilly get some very affordable Cougar CF-V12HP that are rated 2.2mmH20/18db (they are silent, but not THAT silent I believe) or buy another pair of SP120L to run push/pull at lower RPM (but I guess the noise would be multiplied by 2, I don't know if that would work). SP120L are rated 4,5mmH20/38db.
> 
> I don't expect you to advise me into another brand, though. So if you could help as much as possible in your position, I'd appreciate a lot!


The ones you are talking about are quieter but don't push as much air. Significantly less in-fact. You're better off running the Corsair ones at a lower % imo


----------



## nesham

@Corsair Joseph Have You information about AM4 socket and should owners of H100i GTX buy mounting kits for AM4 socket.
Thanks in advance
Nesham


----------



## Sirstiv

So i received my H80i [V2] after my H80i V1's pump went clicketty click. (warranty replaced)

My system is in an SG08 case.

Let me tell you that the fitment of both revisions is TOTALLY different.

I went crazy trying to fit it into my case (both fans).

The V2 is a MUCH better build. But the hoses are MUCH tighter and the hoses do not turn on the base like they did on V1.

Anyway, behold the fitment in a small case.

The fans are so much quieter







.

Using grizzly paste under with CLU + 4770k ) (delidded). Temps hardly go over 50c.

I had to insert it into the case with one fan... then slot the second one in after. It was a mission and very card to fit.

H80i V1:
(Hoses were weaker/bendier)



H80i V2:
(Hoses are very stiff and braided looking)


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sirstiv*
> 
> ... But the hoses are MUCH tighter and the hoses do not turn on the base like they did on V1.


I ran into this problem when trying to replace a failed H90 with an H80i V2. I wasn't able to even come close to making that H80 fit. I have no idea why Corsair decided to go with such rigid inflexible hoses. I'm sure they are more durable, but how often was this a failure point anyway? 99% of the time I hear about an AIO failure it's that cheap pump.


----------



## Sirstiv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> I ran into this problem when trying to replace a failed H90 with an H80i V2. I wasn't able to even come close to making that H80 fit. I have no idea why Corsair decided to go with such rigid inflexible hoses. I'm sure they are more durable, but how often was this a failure point anyway? 99% of the time I hear about an AIO failure it's that cheap pump.


You need to master how to twist and turn them like I did.

It took me 3hrs of planning and constant switching of position. I almost gave up.

V1 pumps look cheap and nasty compared to V2.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sirstiv*
> 
> You need to master how to twist and turn them like I did.
> 
> It took me 3hrs of planning and constant switching of position. I almost gave up.
> 
> V1 pumps look cheap and nasty compared to V2.


The problem was I had my H90 mounted on my GPU in a SFF case (Corsair 250D). The hoses just couldn't fit between the card and the case without leaving the side off. I ended up just getting a new case altogether. On the plus side it did push me to finally do my first custom water cooling loop!


----------



## Ricwin

I need some advise about reducing temps while keeping my current overclock on an H105.
So far all I've really done is replace the thermal paste with MX-4, and replace the SP120's with Noctua NF-F12's (industrial 3000rpm PWM model).

What else is possible to modify the loop and reduce temps? Dont really care about warranty...


----------



## hhuey5

I have new h110 i gtx equiv H115

its turned out I wont be building 10c system this year it might be 2017 or 2018
when kaby lake or better 10c to succeed broadwell-e 6950x
by that time the sockets would have changed

as corsair updates the socket
would I be able to get new socket for my unit or do I have to buy new pump?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ricwin*
> 
> I need some advise about reducing temps while keeping my current overclock on an H105.
> So far all I've really done is replace the thermal paste with MX-4, and replace the SP120's with Noctua NF-F12's (industrial 3000rpm PWM model).
> 
> What else is possible to modify the loop and reduce temps? Dont really care about warranty...


About all I can think of is to delid your CPU or replace the cooler with an open loop. The TIM you put on isn't any better than the stock Dow Corning TIM that comes on Corsair coolers.


----------



## redshoulder

If someone buys one of your products and is doa on arrival why should they have to pay for shipping the item back to your rma centre when it was not clearly the customers fault?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redshoulder*
> 
> If someone buys one of your products and is doa on arrival why should they have to pay for shipping the item back to your rma centre when it was not clearly the customers fault?


If it's DOA, take it back where you purchased it from. Pretty much every store will have a return policy. If you purchased it online then send it back where you ordered it from.
You see, the advantage of purchasing from a real store is that you can take it back and it doesn't cost you a cent. However if you want to order online you have to accept the fact that you have to pay for shipping. If you don't want shipping costs then support your local stores.
I do both, purchase locally from stores and order online and I accept that I am responsible for shipping costs for online purchases.
Why should someone else pay your shipping costs when you are the person who decided or order the item instead of purchasing it from a store?
Note that it's been this way, with a few exceptions, since mail-order was invented.


----------



## redshoulder

Compared to US, there are no local stores that qualify. If there was and prices were comparable of course I would purchase from local shop,but here we have to rely on webshops if we want up to date and specific pc hardware.

Sure they are some pc shops around but either sell obsolete or generic office items. The web-shop I bought it from closed, next time will purchase from amazon for no fuss returns.


----------



## Mergatroid

That's really unfortunate. However, I think whether a manufacturer will pay for shipping is really up to the manufacturer, and that while it is great public relations for them to help people out, they really have no obligation to pay shipping costs. That is something nice about Amazon, but not all Amazon sellers will pay for return shipping either. I have had to pay to return some defect products I have purchased from Amazon sellers. I suppose it's really the luck of the draw. If you're good at laying on a guilt trip, or buttering up a rep, you might be able to talk them into paying shipping for a defective unit.


----------



## Skye12977




----------



## alayoubi

Hi Guys,,

Is there a real difference in between H100i v1 & v2 in PUMP & Performance?

Thanks in advance


----------



## juniordnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alayoubi*
> 
> Hi Guys,,
> 
> Is there a real difference in between H100i v1 & v2 in PUMP & Performance?
> 
> Thanks in advance


Yes, there's a big difference in pump design and in performance aswell. Tweaktown has some nice reviews about watercoolers and you can compare results there. I suggest you search for h100i GTX (same as V2) there and compare results. The V2 is a lot better than "V1".


----------



## DiceAir

I have this issue with my h100i v1 maybe it's the h100i that's the issue but don't know. Anyway I bought this thermal paste to actualy replace the bad thermal paste on my 980ti HOF. It works bought temps down from 80-84C to 75C max and real games under 70C.

i decided to do my cpu as well. Was running Arctic silver 5. i still had left so might as well do it. It should be better than arctic silver 5 but funny on my cpu even on stock clocks it does worse than arctic silver 5. When I had arctic silver 5 on was reaching 80C on cinebench overclocked to 4.6ghz then I replaced it with cooler master mastergel maker nano and got temps of 100C on stock clocks. So don't know why it will be worse than Arctic silver. I also tried different application methods (x, spread, rice size) nothing worked. I thought my h100i was faulty then I went back to Arctic silver 5 and was just fine again. 80C on cinebench overclocked.

So what can be the issue? I've asked many places and phoned many shops, suppliers, etc and no one can help. I even asked cooler master why it's not working and they told me I must check if everything is nice and tight and the pump and fans is working. I did same for both Arctic silver 5 and Mastergel maker nano and every time Arctic silver wins by a mile.

Seeing as it worked on my GPU I don't think there might be something wrong with the thermal paste. On my gpu the Arctic silver was a clear looser as max temps in stress test was still 80-84C and in games easy to reach 75-80C now I only get 70C and sometimes as low as 64C max. So mby the looks thermal paste is working just fine or maybe not. We must remember the gpu is directly on the die where cpu is on a headspreader.


----------



## Noufel

hi people
my h110i gtx seems to have hard time cooling this 6700k, the idle temps are fine 27-28 on all cors with an ambient temp of 26 but the problemes start when full loading ( video editing benching or even gaming ) the temps are very high like 71-80 on every core and changing the pumps profil to performance and fans to max have no benefits, there isn't any strange pump noise and the coolant temps at full load is 39-40




any advise is welcome thnx


----------



## GrumpyOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> Yes, there's a big difference in pump design and in performance aswell. Tweaktown has some nice reviews about watercoolers and you can compare results there. I suggest you search for h100i GTX (same as V2) there and compare results. The V2 is a lot better than "V1".


Any idea how it compares to an h110i GT? I'm on my second one and the pump is the loudest thing in my case (upgraded fans)


----------



## juniordnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrumpyOne*
> 
> Any idea how it compares to an h110i GT? I'm on my second one and the pump is the loudest thing in my case (upgraded fans)


This chart should give you a pretty good estimate:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







H110i GTX (asetek) is a little better than H110i GT (coolit), and the H100i GTX (same as V2) is 1 degree hotter. So comparing H100i V2 vs H110i GT I would say they are equals. 140mm SP fans are usually louder and harder to find, also. The H100i V2 is a better option IMO.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noufel*
> 
> hi people
> my h110i gtx seems to have hard time cooling this 6700k, the idle temps are fine 27-28 on all cors with an ambient temp of 26 but the problemes start when full loading ( video editing benching or even gaming ) the temps are very high like 71-80 on every core and changing the pumps profil to performance and fans to max have no benefits, there isn't any strange pump noise and the coolant temps at full load is 39-40
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any advise is welcome thnx


Do you have Hyperthreading disabled? You seem to have higher cpu laod then per core so higher temps. Also make sure cooler is tighten properly. Do you use aftermarket thermal paste?


----------



## Noufel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Do you have Hyperthreading disabled? You seem to have higher cpu laod then per core so higher temps. Also make sure cooler is tighten properly. Do you use aftermarket thermal paste?


Yes the cooler is tightened corectly and i use the MX-4, also HT is enabled.
For the cpu load it's normal for a game like bf4 with a 1080 gtx on a 144hz 1080p monitor


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noufel*
> 
> Yes the cooler is tightened corectly and i use the MX-4, also HT is enabled.
> For the cpu load it's normal for a game like bf4 with a 1080 gtx on a 144hz 1080p monitor


read my previous post. I had thermal paste issues with the h100i cooler. Get some Arctic silver 5 even if you don't think it's thebest just try it. There might be beter out there but I had the new cooler master mastergel nano and my cpu was crazy hot. over 100C after making sure everything is tight and working 100% still 100C. Went back to arctic silver and temps came down a ton. I'm on Arctic silver 5 now old gen h100i (still try what I suggest), 4790k @ 4.6ghz 980ti hof, 165hz ASUS PG279q 1440p. IMy cpu in bf4 goes to about 60C max and I had to pump just under 1.3V on the cpu and bump up other voltages just to get it stable. So I don't even have the best chip and my h100i is running in quiet mode so not even the best cooling. The only game that makes my cpu run 71C is Rainbow six siege but that's only sometimes. So far happy just that I want the cooler master mastergel nano to perform as it should and give me about 2-5C lower temps but it doesn't

I know 1080p should use more cpu power so also try playing a bit with dsr enabled to let it downsample from 2560x1440p to see what your gpu is doing. 70C is nothing to worry about and should be just fine if that's when using handbrake etc cause that can stress a cpu almost to it's absolute max.

Oh and just one other thing. I have a 6700k @ 4.2GHz at work. When doing a reabench stress test on that cpu it goes to 62C. I have a hyper 212x installed on it with stock paste that comes with it. I also clocked it to 4.5GHz and temps on realbench was 75C max. That's good for a cooler like the hyper212x


----------



## juniordnz

Is it normal that the liquid temperature reading on Corsair link never shows more than 35ºC with the H100i V2? Even though it is heating close to 70ºC the liquid temp never reads more than 35ºC usually 32ºC.

I'm pretty sure I have the block seat allright with pea size dot method and Arctic MX4.


----------



## nhidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noufel*
> 
> hi people
> my h110i gtx seems to have hard time cooling this 6700k, the idle temps are fine 27-28 on all cors with an ambient temp of 26 but the problemes start when full loading ( video editing benching or even gaming ) the temps are very high like 71-80 on every core and changing the pumps profil to performance and fans to max have no benefits, there isn't any strange pump noise and the coolant temps at full load is 39-40
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any advise is welcome thnx


Delid the CPU, heat is mainly being stuck inside the die underneath IHS due to poor heat transfer. I delidded mine dropped load temp 15-20C. Better than upgrading any cooling system could do.


----------



## alayoubi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> This chart should give you a pretty good estimate:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> H110i GTX (asetek) is a little better than H110i GT (coolit), and the H100i GTX (same as V2) is 1 degree hotter. So comparing H100i V2 vs H110i GT I would say they are equals. 140mm SP fans are usually louder and harder to find, also. The H100i V2 is a better option IMO.


Did u notice that H105 setting below than H80i gt (performance mode)!?
I dont think this does make any sense, Or its not accurate enough.
Improved pump wont beat 2x120mm Radiator IMO.

Did they still using same thermal paste until last cooler, this is important thing !!


----------



## juniordnz

I belive those reviews are made with the stock tim.


----------



## -red-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> This chart should give you a pretty good estimate:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> H110i GTX (asetek) is a little better than H110i GT (coolit), and the H100i GTX (same as V2) is 1 degree hotter. So comparing H100i V2 vs H110i GT I would say they are equals. 140mm SP fans are usually louder and harder to find, also. The H100i V2 is a better option IMO.


I really don't think that is the case as said by Corsair's own employees

Actually, going for a CoolIT built cooler might be preferable for a plethora of reasons:


CoolIT H110i and H110i GT have two fan controllers. H100i and H80i have four. All Asetek built coolers have only one.
CoolIT can use any temperature source, Asetek can only use the cooler temperature.
CoolIT based coolers offer better LED functionality
Firmware on Asetek built units is not upgradable by the end users like the one on the CoolIT

Still for Corsair's own admission the hardware on the Asetek is silly. In light of all of this I am not sure I'd call Asetek product "superior"


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Springfield Armory XDS.45


----------



## juniordnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-red-*
> 
> I really don't think that is the case as said by Corsair's own employees
> 
> Actually, going for a CoolIT built cooler might be preferable for a plethora of reasons:
> 
> 
> CoolIT H110i and H110i GT have two fan controllers. H100i and H80i have four. All Asetek built coolers have only one.
> CoolIT can use any temperature source, Asetek can only use the cooler temperature.
> CoolIT based coolers offer better LED functionality
> Firmware on Asetek built units is not upgradable by the end users like the one on the CoolIT
> 
> Still for Corsair's own admission the hardware on the Asetek is silly. In light of all of this I am not sure I'd call Asetek product "superior"


Yeah, I read about that too. But I prefer to buy based on reviews and numbers than based on gossip. And everywhere you search Gen5 Asetek's are superior to basically any other AIO solution.

Was a happy owner of a coolit H80i for almost 2 years, nothing against the brand. These new asetek's are just better.

Anyway, both have 5yr warranty, only time will tell.

What do you mean with this:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-red-*
> 
> 
> CoolIT can use any temperature source, Asetek can only use the cooler temperature.


I can read any temperature with my H100i V2 and control it's fan/pump curve based on any temp reading from the system. Actually, I use my pump at 100% full time (can't hear it) and my fan curve is based on my GPU temperature (since I run a strictly gaming rig and the CPU is not stressed at all with the other things I do)


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alayoubi*
> 
> Did u notice that H105 setting below than H80i gt (performance mode)!?
> I dont think this does make any sense, Or its not accurate enough.
> Improved pump wont beat 2x120mm Radiator IMO.
> 
> Did they still using same thermal paste until last cooler, this is important thing !!


As far as I know, Corsair uses For Corning TIM, which they tested a few years ago. They said it equals Shin Etsu TIM. I wouldn't replace the stock TIM unless I had to remove the cooler for some reason.

Edit
Stupid auto-correct. That should have said Dow Corning TIM.


----------



## juniordnz

Could anyone tell me how hot the water on the H100i gets when the cpu is at 65-70ºC? With those temps I read 33-36ºC liquid temperature on my H100i V2. Is that normal?

I MAY have exagerated on the MX4 though. Will replace it with a thin layer of Kryonaut as soon as I get my hands on it.

EDIT: Boy, those SP120L rattles A LOT when mounted horizontal. Will have to replace them...


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> As far as I know, Corsair uses For Corning TIM, which they tested a few years ago. They said it equals Shin Etsu TIM. I wouldn't replace the stock TIM unless I had to remove the cooler for some reason.


I agree, Corsair's stock TIM is very nice


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> Could anyone tell me how hot the water on the H100i gets when the cpu is at 65-70ºC? With those temps I read 33-36ºC liquid temperature on my H100i V2. Is that normal?
> 
> I MAY have exagerated on the MX4 though. Will replace it with a thin layer of Kryonaut as soon as I get my hands on it.
> 
> EDIT: Boy, those SP120L rattles A LOT when mounted horizontal. Will have to replace them...


When my CPU gets about 57 the water temp is around 32.7-33.6

So, it sounds about right?


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoneTomorrow*
> 
> Springfield Armory XDS.45


1943 US Army issue Remington Rand M1911A1


----------



## Bakayaroo187

Hi there ! i have a question that has probably been answered but im not ready to read the 2780 pages of this thread so please forgive me lol

I have an H100i V2 and i can change it's led color when plugged with USB header. But i need that USB header and after reboot (unplugged) it goes back to red, and sometimes blue color ..

Is there any way to keep it white without plugging it to the internal USB 2.0 ?
thanks fro helping


----------



## juniordnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bakayaroo187*
> 
> Hi there ! i have a question that has probably been answered but im not ready to read the 2780 pages of this thread so please forgive me lol
> 
> I have an H100i V2 and i can change it's led color when plugged with USB header. But i need that USB header and after reboot (unplugged) it goes back to red, and sometimes blue color ..
> 
> Is there any way to keep it white without plugging it to the internal USB 2.0 ?
> thanks fro helping


I believe there's an option where you can save the current settings into the device so it keeps it memorized even without corsair link installed. It's under Options > Devices > "Use current settings as default"


----------



## Bakayaroo187

In what "options" are you talking about if it's not corsair link 4 program ? (Windows control panel ?)
Thanks for the answer Uncle Snoop lol


----------



## juniordnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bakayaroo187*
> 
> In what "options" are you talking about if it's not corsair link 4 program ? (Windows control panel ?)
> Thanks for the answer Uncle Snoop lol


It's on Corsair Link, right next to "Graphing". Not at home right now otherwise I would print screen it for you, but it's there. Haven't tested setting it up there and then unninstalling CL and disconnecting the USB cable, but I believe it works.

I really love this new gen5 asetek design, but the connector position and the cable/plug style of those USB cables are horrible. Completely kills the clean look of the pump cover. Wish they would make a single braided cable come out of the pump, then it would split in the other end so we could make all the connections behind the mobo.


----------



## Bakayaroo187

It seems to work ! Thank you very much Uncle Snoop !
Yeah the look is clean without these usb corsair link thing, i can't keep that like that.

And about their "braids", by manipulating the pipes to fit the cooler in my TJ 07, one side of it teared and i had half braided half rubber pipe ... So i had no choice than taking it completely off the pipe. Wich leaded me to do the same with the other one :'(
People be careful with these lol


----------



## juniordnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bakayaroo187*
> 
> It seems to work ! Thank you very much Uncle Snoop !
> Yeah the look is clean without these usb corsair link thing, i can't keep that like that.
> 
> And about their "braids", by manipulating the pipes to fit the cooler in my TJ 07, one side of it teared and i had half braided half rubber pipe ... So i had no choice than taking it completely off the pipe. Wich leaded me to do the same with the other one :'(
> People be careful with these lol


You're welcome, bro!

Yeah, those braided tubes are really stiff. I felt very unconfortable fitting everything inside my mastercase5, it seems to apply a very uneccessary force to the mobo. Wish they would rotate and were easier to bend.


----------



## Derek1

Not sure if this has been addressed, but what exactly is the difference between the H115i and the H110i?

ETA I see now on the Corsair page the H110i has a larger rad @ 322mm, faster fan @ 2100 +/- 10%, higher CFM @113, and is 3dB louder. Will look for differences in cooling performance.

Thanks


----------



## nrpeyton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nhidog*
> 
> Delid the CPU, heat is mainly being stuck inside the die underneath IHS due to poor heat transfer. I delidded mine dropped load temp 15-20C. Better than upgrading any cooling system could do.


Manufacturers really need to start doing a de-lid option. I'd even pay a bit extra for it.

I've watched a few videos with a guy hammering something side-ways onto the top of his CPU while it was secured with a vice but I'm not sure I could risk it lol.

How hard was it and what CPU do you have?

Imagine if manufacturers done delided GPU's i might even hit 2220 on my 1080 without having to spend £500 on a water-chiller lol.


----------



## Kaeth

So I'm interested in people's feelings about these coolers these days.

I bought an H50 right about when these things started coming out. It lasted my system for 6 years wonderfully, was whisper quiet, never any pump noise, and only mild fan noise (replaced stock with Noctua). It kept my temps quite low.

I'm a bit disappointed to see that years later, the newer models for different socket types cost over $100, with the 240 (100i v2) and 120 PP (80i v2) listed at the _*same*_ price point. Add to this dozens of reviews citing pump noise issues in these.

I'm having trouble convincing myself to buy one of these for my upcoming i7-6700k build with the pricing issues, lack of 1x140mm, and the knowledge that I have to replace the stock fans with something quieter (Phanteks, Noctua).

Thoughts?


----------



## Mergatroid

I also had one of the original H50 coolers, but I had a clattering pump noise. Once the case was closed it wasn't very loud but I could still hear it.
After that I had the original H70. I liked it a lot, it had the round pump and was very quiet.
Now I have the original H100, and 90% of the time it's very quiet, but once in a while I hear a little rattling but eventually it goes away.
Personally, I like these AIO water coolers so much for the cooling, ascetics and removing the huge weight from my board that I can't see myself ever owning a PC without one.
You can get an H60 for about the same price the old H50 was selling for, and I bet it cools about the same. I'm looking at one right now in a local computer store for $74.99 CDN, which is about $65 US. Also looking at an H55 for about $80 US.
My H100 was about $120 CDN and I have owned it for about three years now (since H100 first hit the market). My temps are still as good as the day I installed it. Of course, the five year warranty Corsair provides is a big incentive as well.


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaeth*
> 
> So I'm interested in people's feelings about these coolers these days.
> 
> I bought an H50 right about when these things started coming out. It lasted my system for 6 years wonderfully, was whisper quiet, never any pump noise, and only mild fan noise (replaced stock with Noctua). It kept my temps quite low.
> 
> I'm a bit disappointed to see that years later, the newer models for different socket types cost over $100, with the 240 (100i v2) and 120 PP (80i v2) listed at the _*same*_ price point. Add to this dozens of reviews citing pump noise issues in these.
> 
> I'm having trouble convincing myself to buy one of these for my upcoming i7-6700k build with the pricing issues, lack of 1x140mm, and the knowledge that I have to replace the stock fans with something quieter (Phanteks, Noctua).
> 
> Thoughts?


Here is where I get caught up on Air coolers - they are so damn big. There is no way that those things don't put too much strain on a MoBo for transportation. I move my computer around semi frequently and even though I've never heard of a heatsink damaging a board I feel like for someone that moves around a lot like myself it would cause issues.

That being said I do get worried about the fact that the AIO's do contain a conductive substance that could potentially ruin everything you own inside your case...

The AIO's look better in my opinion and are easier to install and cool better (generally speaking) - there are some risks involved like I said with what they are but they work very well.

Edit: Also why do you have to replace the fans? The fans that came with my H100i v2 are great. They can get loud but just lower them? They cool fine


----------



## Mergatroid

Again the nice thing about Corsair is that that have replaced people's components in the past when they have determined that they were damaged by a factory defect leaking cooler. This doesn't mean they will every time, but it does give me much more confidence in their coolers.

I replaced the fans on mine with Corsair SP fans because I wanted PWM fans. They are being controlled, very well, by my Sabertooth motherboard. The ASUS software that came with my mother board is excellent at controlling all the fans in my case, including having two CPU_FAN headers. I have even removed my fan controller now.


----------



## Kaeth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> Edit: Also why do you have to replace the fans? The fans that came with my H100i v2 are great. They can get loud but just lower them? They cool fine


Lowering fan speed raises temps. Not great for OCing, and somewhat defies the point of owning a cooler that costs 5 times an EVO212.


----------



## juniordnz

99.9% sure that I already know the answer and but I'll shoot anyway:

Lapping voids the warranty?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaeth*
> 
> Lowering fan speed raises temps. Not great for OCing, and somewhat defies the point of owning a cooler that costs 5 times an EVO212.


Lowering the fan speed has a much smaller influence on the temperature than moving from a stock cooler to an AIO cooler. That move might give you a 20 - 30℃ temperature change while lowering the fan speed could have an effect from 3 - 7℃. So using a cooler with the lowest fan speed is still a vast improvement over a stock cooler, hardly defeating the purpose at all. To some people, quiet is just as important as the improved cooling.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> 99.9% sure that I already know the answer and but I'll shoot anyway:
> 
> Lapping voids the warranty?


Yes it does.


----------



## juniordnz

@Kaeth

Also, you can alweys go push/pull with lower speeds. I believe is the best scenario for those who want silence and performance.


----------



## Mergatroid

In most cases, tested extensively in this very thread, push pull vs just push or pull only made about a 1c difference in temps.

I was using push/pull on my H100 a few years ago, and when I was rearranging my case I left out the pull fans temporarily and I only saw a 1c difference at best. Because of that, I never bothered to put the pull fans back in.
I'm sure there are some cases where P/P might make a larger difference, perhaps on a thicker rad with a higher fin density where extra static pressure will really improve air flow through the rad, but for most people here who actually tested it, the difference was negligible.


----------



## juniordnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> In most cases, tested extensively in this very thread, push pull vs just push or pull only made about a 1c difference in temps.
> 
> I was using push/pull on my H100 a few years ago, and when I was rearranging my case I left out the pull fans temporarily and I only saw a 1c difference at best. Because of that, I never bothered to put the pull fans back in.
> I'm sure there are some cases where P/P might make a larger difference, perhaps on a thicker rad with a higher fin density where extra static pressure will really improve air flow through the rad, but for most people here who actually tested it, the difference was negligible.


I do believe that those who have high quality, high static pressure fans, won't benefit much from push/pull instead of just push. But I do think that if you have slower/silent fans, shifting to a push pull can help.

In my case, the SP120L were unnaceptable. They're extremely loud at above 60% and also they would rattle like crazy on my top horizontal rad mount. So I decided to go for a quality ball bearing fan to avoid the rattle noise. Here in Brazil we don't get the vast array of options on SP fans and some of the best quality ones you can't find at all. So no Sanyo Denki or Scythes for me. The best ball bearing fan's I could find here were Arctic's PWM CO, which got some pretty good reviews even matching Noctuas NF-F12 that costs almost twice as much. But those arctics are 1300RPM, so making a push pull I can compensate some of the lost static pressure and keep noise levels down.

But I agree, those who already have good quality SP fans won't gain much goig for push/pull.


----------



## Aggrotech

Havin a hard time finding the information im lookin for, for these Hydro AIO's. Can someone tell me or link me to performance numbers? Looking to get my first AIO and I want to know what the best performance AIO would be for z170 build. Preferably for 280mm or higher, or even some other similarly performing brands.


----------



## Mergatroid

For every one you are interested in, google reviews. If you trying to find the best one, at least for cooling performance, that's about the only way to do it. No one here has tried them all, and if we needed that information, that's what we would have to do.
That's what I do for every piece of computer equipment I purchase.
There are so many different brands and models now that there is no one location that will sum up the performance of all of them.
But really, similar units are going to perform similarly. If you decide on a couple you really like after reading lots of professional reviews, go to sites like Amazon and Newegg and read the reviews left by customers. That will tell you if they have any glaring defects.
Personally I like the Corsair units because of the five year warranty.


----------



## FrancisJF

Would Corsair H5 SF work on Silverstone Raven RVZ01B with little or no modding?


----------



## Bakayaroo187

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aggrotech*
> 
> Havin a hard time finding the information im lookin for, for these Hydro AIO's. Can someone tell me or link me to performance numbers? Looking to get my first AIO and I want to know what the best performance AIO would be for z170 build. Preferably for 280mm or higher, or even some other similarly performing brands.


From what i read in my research, the best AIO Cooler in performance was one of the swiftech coolers, but i hated their look ...


----------



## NK83

Corsair H80i V2 + i7 6700K = 13°C


----------



## Mergatroid

Hey guys.

This isn't video card specific, but here's a nice little benchmarker that is very informative. Give it a run. It only takes a couple of minutes.

I have found out that my RAM and SSDs seem to be under performing. Going to look into that now.

Here's my score.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Hey guys.
> 
> This isn't video card specific, but here's a nice little benchmarker that is very informative. Give it a run. It only takes a couple of minutes.
> 
> I have found out that my RAM and SSDs seem to be under performing. Going to look into that now.
> 
> Here's my score.


Ha, ha, nice!









Here's mine. I am not a gamer.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Chaoz

Neat little tool. This is mine.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Hey guys.
> 
> This isn't video card specific, but here's a nice little benchmarker that is very informative. Give it a run. It only takes a couple of minutes.
> 
> I have found out that my RAM and SSDs seem to be under performing. Going to look into that now.
> 
> Here's my score.


Luv these real world full system benches ... +R








Brought some activity back to this thread ... to bad it doesn't test the AIO ... directly?








@Merg ... something is up with your 4770K ... maybe it's overheating (LoL)







... plus you should manually set your ram and/or overclock it







Lastly, what is up with our 1TB Samsung platter drives? Pitiful ehhh









My old standby gaming rig ... "Too Easy"
Holy Molly at the time I topped the GPU chart, won't last long as my "Craigs Rescue" rig is next










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











*Edit: OOOPs* I thought the bench compared all systems directly









Your Killin' it Juniordnz ... now I'll have something to compare my "Craigs Rescue" rig to as long as my Evga 1080 doesn't catch on fire


----------



## juniordnz

Who doesn't love these full system benchmarks









UserBenchmarks: Game 140%, Desk 113%, Work 92%
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K - *112.9%*
GPU: Nvidia GTX 1080 - *182.1%*
SSD: Samsung 850 EVO M.2 250GB - *116.5%*
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 1TB - *96%*
RAM: Unknown F3-1600C9-4GAB 0420 F3-12800CL9-4GBSR 0420 F3-1600C9-4GAB 0420 F3-12800CL9-4GBSR 16GB - *61%*
MBD: Asrock Z97 Extreme6

I know...my RAM is poop...got some 2400mhz cl10 on the mail


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Luv these real world full system benches ... +R
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brought some activity back to this thread ... to bad it doesn't test the AIO ... directly?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Merg ... something is up with your 4770K ... maybe it's overheating (LoL)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... plus you should manually set your ram and/or overclock it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, what is up with our 1TB Samsung platter drives? Pitiful ehhh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My old standby gaming rig ... "Too Easy"
> Holy Molly at the time I topped the GPU chart, won't last long as my "Craigs Rescue" rig is next
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit: OOOPs* I thought the bench compared all systems directly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your Killin' it Juniordnz ... now I'll have something to compare my "Craigs Rescue" rig to as long as my Evga 1080 doesn't catch on fire
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's working much better now.

I don't know why it's showing 3.5GHz, it's running the bench at 4.1GHz.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> Who doesn't love these full system benchmarks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UserBenchmarks: Game 140%, Desk 113%, Work 92%
> CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K - *112.9%*
> GPU: Nvidia GTX 1080 - *182.1%*
> SSD: Samsung 850 EVO M.2 250GB - *116.5%*
> HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 1TB - *96%*
> RAM: Unknown F3-1600C9-4GAB 0420 F3-12800CL9-4GBSR 0420 F3-1600C9-4GAB 0420 F3-12800CL9-4GBSR 16GB - *61%*
> MBD: Asrock Z97 Extreme6
> 
> I know...my RAM is poop...got some 2400mhz cl10 on the mail


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Luv these real world full system benches ... +R
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brought some activity back to this thread ... to bad it doesn't test the AIO ... directly?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Merg ... something is up with your 4770K ... maybe it's overheating (LoL)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... plus you should manually set your ram and/or overclock it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, what is up with our 1TB Samsung platter drives? Pitiful ehhh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My old standby gaming rig ... "Too Easy"
> Holy Molly at the time I topped the GPU chart, won't last long as my "Craigs Rescue" rig is next
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit: OOOPs* I thought the bench compared all systems directly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your Killin' it Juniordnz ... now I'll have something to compare my "Craigs Rescue" rig to as long as my Evga 1080 doesn't catch on fire
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's working much better now.
> 
> I don't know why it's showing 3.5GHz, it's running the bench at 4.1GHz.
Click to expand...

Nice ... noticeable improvement w/Ram and better w/4770K ... Not sure why your SSD's aren't runnin' a bit faster? ...
Could be excessive background tasks? 13%

@JUNIOR ... I'm going to have to get back to serious benching to catch you Junior!!!








Need to play with my CPU/GPU and I got probs with my ram to. I'm new to this platform







...
What ram modules are you running? ... At least my crappy 1080 didn't catch on fire









*Edit:* I should take my own advice ...Background apps! You're clean (0%) nice








*Edit 2* DoOoH ... Hyperthreading is OFF ... no more time have to tackle it tomorrow











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Nice ... noticeable improvement w/Ram and better w/4770K ... Not sure why your SSD's aren't runnin' a bit faster? ...
> Could be excessive background tasks? 13%
> 
> @JUNIOR ... I'm going to have to get back to serious benching to catch you Junior!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need to play with my CPU/GPU and I got probs with my ram to. I'm new to this platform
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> What ram modules are you running? ... At least my crappy 1080 didn't catch on fire
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit:* I should take my own advice ...Background apps! You're clean (0%) nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit 2* DoOoH ... Hyperthreading is OFF ... no more time have to tackle it tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


OK, I fixed my RAM, and I fixed my overclock (4.5GHz)

My SSDs are running slow, and it could have something to do with having them both plugged into the same SATA controller, on port 1 and 2. Something I was just told yesterday that I didn't realize is that adjacent ports on an SATA controller share bandwidth.

I have just ordered one of these.
I know it's no speed demon, but it's much newer than my current SSDs and has much more space. My two SSDs have been installed for two or three years now, and my boot SSD is near capacity (about 51 of 60GB used). Plus my PC is never not being used while it's on. I suppose I should give it a chance to do some maintenance on the SSDs. Still, I don't think this quite accounts for it all. I will install the Kingston for use as a gaming drive, and I will image my system and restore it to the 180GB Corsair Force 3. This should give me plenty of headroom. I'll do some testing after I'm done.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> OK, I fixed my RAM, and I fixed my overclock (4.5GHz)
> 
> My SSDs are running slow, and it could have something to do with having them both plugged into the same SATA controller, on port 1 and 2. Something I was just told yesterday that I didn't realize is that adjacent ports on an SATA controller share bandwidth.
> 
> I have just ordered one of these.
> I know it's no speed demon, but it's much newer than my current SSDs and has much more space. My two SSDs have been installed for two or three years now, and my boot SSD is near capacity (about 51 of 60GB used). Plus my PC is never not being used while it's on. I suppose I should give it a chance to do some maintenance on the SSDs. Still, I don't think this quite accounts for it all. I will install the Kingston for use as a gaming drive, and I will image my system and restore it to the 180GB Corsair Force 3. This should give me plenty of headroom. I'll do some testing after I'm done.


You should buy one of these instead of the Kingston. It got the 3D NAND tech in it.
https://www.amazon.ca/Crucial-MX300-525GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B01IAGSD68/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1478268159&sr=1-1&keywords=Crucial+MX300+525GB

Got 2 of those and they're awesome. 1 in 750GB and 1 in 525GB.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> You should buy one of these instead of the Kingston. It got the 3D NAND tech in it.
> https://www.amazon.ca/Crucial-MX300-525GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B01IAGSD68/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1478268159&sr=1-1&keywords=Crucial+MX300+525GB
> 
> Got 2 of those and they're awesome. 1 in 750GB and 1 in 525GB.


Damn. I missed that. Well, the Kingston is already on the way here. I'll give it a try. If the performance is no better than my current drives I will return it and get the Crucial.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Damn. I missed that. Well, the Kingston is already on the way here. I'll give it a try. If the performance is no better than my current drives I will return it and get the Crucial.


I find the new Kingston UV400's to be better than the UV300's. I have a UV400 120GB for external SSD and it's great but it's no Samsung or Crucial.

You can always return the Kingston. That's so great about amazon.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> I find the new Kingston UV400's to be better than the UV300's. I have a UV400 120GB for external SSD and it's great but it's no Samsung or Crucial.
> 
> You can always return the Kingston. That's so great about amazon.


Think I would have to pay return shipping? If not, I'll just return it unopened and order the Crucial. It gets much better scores and is basically the same price.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Think I would have to pay return shipping? If not, I'll just return it unopened and order the Crucial. It gets much better scores and is basically the same price.


If it's the same with amazon Germany, where I buy my stuff you get a return label to ship it back for free.

Yeah the Crucial is an amazing SSD.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> OK, I fixed my RAM, and I fixed my overclock (4.5GHz)
> 
> My SSDs are running slow, and it could have something to do with having them both plugged into the same SATA controller, on port 1 and 2. Something I was just told yesterday that I didn't realize is that adjacent ports on an SATA controller share bandwidth.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> You should buy one of these instead of the Kingston. It got the 3D NAND tech in it.
> https://www.amazon.ca/Crucial-MX300-525GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B01IAGSD68/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1478268159&sr=1-1&keywords=Crucial+MX300+525GB
> 
> Got 2 of those and they're awesome. 1 in 750GB and 1 in 525GB.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> If it's the same with amazon Germany, where I buy my stuff you get a return label to ship it back for free.
> 
> Yeah the Crucial is an amazing SSD.
> 
> 
> 
> Looking good Merg, noticeable improvements! The SSD's are fine in the same controller, just make sure it's an Intel port, which ports 1&2 should be or for me it is ports 0&1 in the bios ... Yea time to move on from the 60GB as your main C: drive, it's old and way overcrowded, that's why it's so slow. I even put an additional 10% overprovision on my SSD's! Both Samsung and Crucial make it easy to do with their excellent tool software!
> 
> +R Chaoz ... good recommendation ... I recently picked up a MX300, got the 1TB on sale for $247 *HERE*, even has free Acronis! and seems to hang with the Samsungs I have, you can't go wrong w/Sammy's but now that Crucial has 3D Nand, I think they're both a toss-up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> If it's the same with amazon Germany, where I buy my stuff you get a return label to ship it back for free.
> 
> Yeah the Crucial is an amazing SSD.


So I went ahead and ordered the Crucial. I'll return the Kingston as soon as it come in.

When I went looking for an SSD, I was looking for budget drives. I started out with Patriot, and then Kingston, and compared them to some Corsair drives. While looking at reviews, I was seeing the bench differences between the Samsung and Crucial drives, but I didn't even look up their prices since the Samsungs weren't budget drives and it seemed as though the Crucials weren't either.

I was way surprised when you posted that link, and I checked the benchmarks on the 500GB model. They were quite significantly better, yet the drive price was pretty much the same. If this is how Crucial is going to be for SSD pricing now, those other budget companies better up their game...


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> So I went ahead and ordered the Crucial. I'll return the Kingston as soon as it come in.
> 
> When I went looking for an SSD, I was looking for budget drives. I started out with Patriot, and then Kingston, and compared them to some Corsair drives. While looking at reviews, I was seeing the bench differences between the Samsung and Crucial drives, but I didn't even look up their prices since the Samsungs weren't budget drives and it seemed as though the Crucials weren't either.
> 
> I was way surprised when you posted that link, and I checked the benchmarks on the 500GB model. They were quite significantly better, yet the drive price was pretty much the same. If this is how Crucial is going to be for SSD pricing now, those other budget companies better up their game...


Yeah exactly. I was also quite surprised how well the MX300's perform especially for their price. SInc it's lower than the Samsung's 850 EVO's.

I myself got a 850 EVO 500 GB for OS and MX300 525GB for Games and MX300 750GB for other programs and I'm quite happy with the performance of these drives. The Samsung's really getting a run for it's price/performance.

The MX300's are the way to go nowadays. The 3D NAND tech is so much better than the V-NAND from Samsung.


----------



## yorfi86

Hi, I have a H80i V2 and a i3 4370 and I getting idle temps between 39-45 and when I gaming the temps are between 55-60, are these temps normal?


----------



## juniordnz

Idle is definitely high. What's your room temp and fan profile?


----------



## yorfi86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> Idle is definitely high. What's your room temp and fan profile?


28C, fan profile balanced


----------



## juniordnz

Seems ok then. Sometimes idle is not 100% idle and that little activity makes you CPU draw full power.

Pump is already running at 2800rpm? I always leave the pump at full speed (still dead silent in my case) and control only the fans, since they are the only ones that we can hear.


----------



## yorfi86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> Seems ok then. Sometimes idle is not 100% idle and that little activity makes you CPU draw full power.
> 
> Pump is already running at 2800rpm? I always leave the pump at full speed (still dead silent in my case) and control only the fans, since they are the only ones who we can hear.


i have the pump and fans in balanced, I will try later setting the pump in full, thanks a lot


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yorfi86*
> 
> Hi, I have a H80i V2 and a i3 4370 and I getting idle temps between 39-45 and when I gaming the temps are between 55-60, are these temps normal?


Depends on overclocks (CPU/GPU) and most importantly case circulation! Is your H80i mounted as intake or exhaust"? Also any "Windforce" GPU is notorious for dumping heat into the case (example my OC'd G1 980Ti) improved w/case mods.

Your sig says you have the NZXT S340 which is notorious for poor air circulation, unless you've modded it? Not by choice, I recently acquired a NZXT H440 and even though it has better intake vents, it has horrible air circulation compared to my modded HAF922. I'm in the process of modding it









I agree w/junior, giving your high ambients your temps aren't to bad, but I think you could do much better with some case mods ... ie. I'm going to cut 2 holes (front and top) appx 4.5"x9" (2x120mm) then cover w/fans or magnetic mesh screens to solve my poor performance with the H440









*TRUMP WINS!*


----------



## spddmn24

Just picked up an h110i from newegg for $95 after rebate. Despite everyone saying AIO coolers aren't any better than air I'm running 7-8 degrees cooler than my truespirit power 140 rev a. on a 4.7 ghz 6700k @ 1.432v. It would crash trying to encode with handbrake before and crashed @ around 87 degrees, now it tops out at 80. Gaming is 5-7 degrees cooler as well. I might try backing down the voltage a tad since it's running cooler.


----------



## Derek1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spddmn24*
> 
> Just picked up an h110i from newegg for $95 after rebate. Despite everyone saying AIO coolers aren't any better than air I'm running 7-8 degrees cooler than my truespirit power 140 rev a. on a 4.7 ghz 6700k @ 1.432v. It would crash trying to encode with handbrake before and crashed @ around 87 degrees, now it tops out at 80. Gaming is 5-7 degrees cooler as well. I might try backing down the voltage a tad since it's running cooler.


Did you use stock fans?
Pushing or pulling?
Stock paste?


----------



## felix

Greetings !

I got for a friend a H60, to use with his 3770K (slight OC @4.0GHz).

He says that it's fan makes a bit noise and want's to replace it with a pair of new (to upgrade to push/pull).

I found the list in the 1st post, but as it states, it is just a list of fans, not the best options.

It could be great if someone could suggest some fans that he uses and is satisfied both by performance and noise.

Thank you in advance for your help !!!!


----------



## spddmn24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derek1*
> 
> Did you use stock fans?
> Pushing or pulling?
> Stock paste?


Stock fans, stock paste, push out the top of the case. Paste on previous cooler was gelid xtreme. Case is a phanteks enthroo pro m with 2 140mm fans on the front as intake, h110i on top as exhaust, 140mm exhaust fan on back.


----------



## juniordnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felix*
> 
> Greetings !
> 
> I got for a friend a H60, to use with his 3770K (slight OC @4.0GHz).
> 
> He says that it's fan makes a bit noise and want's to replace it with a pair of new (to upgrade to push/pull).
> 
> I found the list in the 1st post, but as it states, it is just a list of fans, not the best options.
> 
> It could be great if someone could suggest some fans that he uses and is satisfied both by performance and noise.
> 
> Thank you in advance for your help !!!!


Just upgrade my H100i V2 to four ARCTIC F12 PST CO on push/pull and I can say it was the best investment I could ever make. These arctic are extremely cheap compared to Noctuas NF F12 (which perform just the same) and on push pull they are very quiet, can't even compare to the old SP120L setup. Those are jet engines.


----------



## felix

Thank you for your fast reply !

These are the fans https://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/arctic-f12-pwm-co.html (PWM) ?

Did you plug them in PWM sockets or just 3-pin ones for 100% speed ?


----------



## juniordnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felix*
> 
> Thank you for your fast reply !
> 
> These are the fans https://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/arctic-f12-pwm-co.html (PWM) ?
> 
> Did you plug them in PWM sockets or just 3-pin ones for 100% speed ?


They are connected through a flexa fp5 on PWM. But they are so silent that I leave them 100% 24/7


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spddmn24*
> 
> Just picked up an h110i from newegg for $95 after rebate. Despite everyone saying AIO coolers aren't any better than air I'm running 7-8 degrees cooler than my truespirit power 140 rev a. on a 4.7 ghz 6700k @ 1.432v. It would crash trying to encode with handbrake before and crashed @ around 87 degrees, now it tops out at 80. Gaming is 5-7 degrees cooler as well. I might try backing down the voltage a tad since it's running cooler.


I think AIO coolers have finally surpassed the best air coolers. It may be only by 5c or less, but I think it's consistent now. If also depends somewhat on the case being used since some are way better for air cooling than others. Of course, the other advantages are that you get rid of this huge hunk of metal that was hanging off of your CPU, and you get more empty space in the middle if your rug.
Now that I have used a few AIO water coolers on my personal systems, I'll never go back. All the customers I have installed them for seem happy with them as well.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spddmn24*
> 
> Just picked up an h110i from newegg for $95 after rebate. Despite *everyone* saying AIO coolers aren't any better than air I'm running 7-8 degrees cooler than my truespirit power 140 rev a. on a 4.7 ghz 6700k @ 1.432v. It would crash trying to encode with handbrake before and crashed @ around 87 degrees, now it tops out at 80. Gaming is 5-7 degrees cooler as well. I might try backing down the voltage a tad since it's running cooler.


Not everyone. Just a couple of people here systematically downrate (disdain) AIOs, and then a pack of others simply agree with them and follow. I own and use actively the two CPU coolers shown in my sig_rig, with the rest of the system. My Corsair H110, an older model of an AIO, is performing better than my Noctua NH-D15S. Its value is proven on high VCore, at 1.4V. More than 5 crucial degrees Celsius cooler. It always fails without them. My solution to this "debate" is to own both. I'm using my Noctua EXCLUSIVELY in the open-air rig I'm running during the winter time.


----------



## NYU87

Just picked up a H100i v2 to replace my aging H100i.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYU87*
> 
> Just picked up a H100i v2 to replace my aging H100i.


Aging? I'M still using a four year old H100....the original.
Still, thinking about a 360mm AIO now since my case has been modded for one.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NYU87*
> 
> Just picked up a H100i v2 to replace my aging H100i.
> 
> 
> 
> Aging? I'M still using a four year old H100....the original.
> Still, thinking about a 360mm air now since my case has been modded for one.
Click to expand...

Hey Merg ... are you having a little dementia? I thought you and I got our "classic" H100's around the same time?
My 5 year anniversary will be this Black Friday, my H100 was purchased in 2011 and still going strong in my "Too Easy" rig


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Hey Merg ... are you having a little dementia? I thought you and I got our "classic" H100's around the same time?
> My 5 year anniversary will be this Black Friday, my H100 was purchased in 2011 and still going strong in my "Too Easy" rig


OMG, has it been five years already?
Fark I'm old......time is flying....keeps on slipping into the future......
Corsair needs to make a reasonably priced 360 rad really quick or I might have to jump ship.
I am either going to get a 360 AIO cooler or I am going to replace my case with one that has at least three optical drive bays. Since my power button on my 600T has been getting harder to activate I might go with a new case.


----------



## 96accord

CPU: Intel i7 4790k (stock clock)
CPU Cooler: Corsair h100i GTX (performance mode fan profile)

Max temps are when playing Battlefield 4. (I have other screenshots - not on this computer - that show higher temperatures *86C* when playing BF4)..









Here are my temperatures (80C).





I have removed the CPU cooler, removed thermal paste, re-applied thermal paste and reinstalled CPU cooler but that did not resolve the issue.

Edit: I have submitted a support ticket through Corsair. I know I've read about gap/play between the mounting bracket and motherboard but mine feels fine


----------



## NYU87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Aging? I'M still using a four year old H100....the original.
> Still, thinking about a 360mm air now since my case has been modded for one.


I had the original H100 as well on the i7 930 a while back.

This H100i v2 keeps my 4930K @ 4.4GHz/1.28 around 50-60C. I did replace the stock fans with Corsair ML 120 Pros. Can't believe a single ML fan costs $30+ but performance is great and its dead silent.


----------



## spddmn24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *96accord*
> 
> CPU: Intel i7 4790k (stock clock)
> CPU Cooler: Corsair h100i GTX (performance mode fan profile)
> 
> Max temps are when playing Battlefield 4. (I have other screenshots - not on this computer - that show higher temperatures *86C* when playing BF4)..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are my temperatures (80C).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have removed the CPU cooler, removed thermal paste, re-applied thermal paste and reinstalled CPU cooler but that did not resolve the issue.
> 
> Edit: I have submitted a support ticket through Corsair. I know I've read about gap/play between the mounting bracket and motherboard but mine feels fine


You're running at 1.76 volts on your vcore which is chip frying voltage. You need to fix that ASAP.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYU87*
> 
> I had the original H100 as well on the i7 930 a while back.
> 
> This H100i v2 keeps my 4930K @ 4.4GHz/1.28 around 50-60C. I did replace the stock fans with Corsair ML 120 Pros. Can't believe a single ML fan costs $30+ but performance is great and its dead silent.


Yeah, I replaced my H100 fans with Corsair SP120 fans. They have been working really well, and can only be heard when cranked up all the way during benchmark tests.

Now, I have been looking at this.
I don't want to jump ship, because I like Corsair (even if they didn't make a 600T replacement with 3 or more optical drive bays).
When I first got my 600T case, I was using Push/Pull, but because of the motherboard I had at the time, the only way to get it to work was to mod the case so I could move the H100 forward by one fan width to miss hitting the RAM. Because of this mod, I now have room to mount a 360 rad under the top cover. My i7 4770K also runs a little warm for my liking (at 4.5 GHz), even with the H100, so I have backed it off again to 4.2GHz. I would like to run this 360mm cooler because it actually gets really good reviews, it would add new awesomeness to my case, plus it should allow my 4.5GHz overclock.

Of course, if Corsair came out with a 360mm AIO cooler....


----------



## 96accord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spddmn24*
> 
> You're running at 1.76 volts on your vcore which is chip frying voltage. You need to fix that ASAP.


CPU-Z isn't reporting that voltage. It's reporting -> 1.213

Weird Corsair Link is reporting that...


----------



## juniordnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *96accord*
> 
> CPU-Z isn't reporting that voltage. It's reporting -> 1.213
> 
> Weird Corsair Link is reporting that...


What about HWINFO64? That's the most accurate monitoring software I ever used.

I'd check that ASAP. If your vcore is anywhere near that value you are killing your CPU, and killing it FAST.


----------



## Derek1

Just ran an hour of Prime95 after installing my new H110i using GC Extreme and temps never went above 66C.
That's at 1.34v 4.5 OC on the 4820K.
A reduction in temps of 20C over my old H60.
Very happy to say the least.


----------



## 96accord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> What about HWINFO64? That's the most accurate monitoring software I ever used.
> 
> I'd check that ASAP. If your vcore is anywhere near that value you are killing your CPU, and killing it FAST.


Unfortunately I'm at work and my PC is not on at home so I will have to check later.

I will try that software you mentioned above and see.

Will report back.


----------



## spddmn24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *96accord*
> 
> Unfortunately I'm at work and my PC is not on at home so I will have to check later.
> 
> I will try that software you mentioned above and see.
> 
> Will report back.


Make sure you look at vcore not vid.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NYU87*
> 
> I had the original H100 as well on the i7 930 a while back.
> 
> This H100i v2 keeps my 4930K @ 4.4GHz/1.28 around 50-60C. I did replace the stock fans with Corsair ML 120 Pros. Can't believe a single ML fan costs $30+ but performance is great and its dead silent.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I replaced my H100 fans with Corsair SP120 fans. They have been working really well, and can only be heard when cranked up all the way during benchmark tests.
> 
> Now, I have been looking at this.
> I don't want to jump ship, because I like Corsair (even if they didn't make a 600T replacement with 3 or more optical drive bays).
> When I first got my 600T case, I was using Push/Pull, but because of the motherboard I had at the time, the only way to get it to work was to mod the case so I could move the H100 forward by one fan width to miss hitting the RAM. Because of this mod, I now have room to mount a 360 rad under the top cover. My i7 4770K also runs a little warm for my liking (at 4.5 GHz), even with the H100, so I have backed it off again to 4.2GHz. I would like to run this 360mm cooler because it actually gets really good reviews, it would add new awesomeness to my case, plus it should allow my 4.5GHz overclock.
> 
> Of course, if Corsair came out with a 360mm AIO cooler....
Click to expand...

What are your temps? The 4770K is notorious for high load temps because of Intel's crappy and inconsistent IHS attachment, I'm finding the same problem w/6700K/X61 as opposed to my old Sandy Bridge flux solder attachment process. Point is Corsair has gone through at least 3 generations of improvements to the "Cold Plate" possibly netting you 7-10c improvement over our old H100's and from what I can find (not much out there) the Thermaltake is not that much better than the 280mm H110 or X61.

2nd Point is you may need to de-lid or go back to Full Custom loop to really get the results you want. I would've stuck w/Corsair but I inherited the X61 in the Craigs List deal below







... I'm very close to doing a de-lid as OC'd load temps w/Skylake are crazy high compared to Sandy Bridge ... my idle temps are close to ambient / my gaming load temps are acceptable in the high 60c's / but I'll hit mid 90c's with Linx/IBT (see screen below)







... [email protected] Adaptive, 20c ambients in a crappy H440 case that needs serious modding! ... still tuning voltage as 4.8 is stable also, but @4.7 I think I can get down around 1.30-1.32v reducing temps further









Link *HER*E for more screenies ... ALL feel free to comment











I would also like to here Corsair's (George?) comments on wether the Thermatake3.0Ultimate is any better than Corsair's Top-Dog


----------



## 96accord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> What about HWINFO64? That's the most accurate monitoring software I ever used.
> 
> I'd check that ASAP. If your vcore is anywhere near that value you are killing your CPU, and killing it FAST.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spddmn24*
> 
> Make sure you look at vcore not vid.


I hope these screenshots help you two.

vcore1 - 1.264V
vcore2 - 1.232V
vcore0 - 1.232V









Corsair Link is showing currently (while idling) 1.81V VCPU


----------



## juniordnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *96accord*
> 
> I hope these screenshots help you two.


what a crazy reading lol

I don't even know why I still use corsair link. With these Arctic F12 I keep them full time 100% RPM, guess I'll set it that way and unninstall corsair link


----------



## 96accord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> what a crazy reading lol
> 
> I don't even know why I still use corsair link. With these Arctic F12 I keep them full time 100% RPM, guess I'll set it that way and unninstall corsair link


Yeah tell me about it. I don't know why that reading is so far off on Corsair Link but I've never been a fan of it :/


----------



## Associated

It must be showing the VCCIN, input voltage for CPU.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> What are your temps? The 4770K is notorious for high load temps because of Intel's crappy and inconsistent IHS attachment, I'm finding the same problem w/6700K/X61 as opposed to my old Sandy Bridge flux solder attachment process. Point is Corsair has gone through at least 3 generations of improvements to the "Cold Plate" possibly netting you 7-10c improvement over our old H100's and from what I can find (not much out there) the Thermaltake is not that much better than the 280mm H110 or X61.
> 
> 2nd Point is you may need to de-lid or go back to Full Custom loop to really get the results you want. I would've stuck w/Corsair but I inherited the X61 in the Craigs List deal below
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... I'm very close to doing a de-lid as OC'd load temps w/Skylake are crazy high compared to Sandy Bridge ... my idle temps are close to ambient / my gaming load temps are acceptable in the high 60c's / but I'll hit mid 90c's with Linx/IBT (see screen below)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... [email protected] Adaptive, 20c ambients in a crappy H440 case that needs serious modding! ... still tuning voltage as 4.8 is stable also, but @4.7 I think I can get down around 1.30-1.32v reducing temps further
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link *HER*E for more screenies ... ALL feel free to comment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would also like to here Corsair's (George?) comments on wether the Thermatake3.0Ultimate is any better than Corsair's Top-Dog


I have been reading and thinking about deliding for the exact reasons you mention. My Haswel CPU can spike to a hundred degrees if I believe the software. The ASUS software I use says it spikes to 90 deg when running Intel burn test. Gaming it usually runs in the mid 70s. Plus, at 4.5ghz it actually crashed when I was running a DVD ripper using all the cores. That's why I backed it off. I hate the thought of damaging my CPU but it looks like delidding is the way to go.
I like the thermaltake cooler not just for the performance but also because it would plug the hole in my case where the 3rd fan would go.


----------



## 96accord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Associated*
> 
> It must be showing the VCCIN, input voltage for CPU.


Good eye. Definitely looks like it. Very odd.


----------



## juniordnz

Can anyone confirm if those new H100i V2 save your settings even without Corsair Link installed?

Since my Arctic's F12 are so silent I'm thinking about running pump and fans 100% 24/7. One less software installed and one less cable to route.


----------



## Noufel

my H110i gtx is officialy dead







replaced it with an X61 and the temps are all good hope youn don't get those problems guys with this unit


----------



## juniordnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noufel*
> 
> my H110i gtx is officialy dead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> replaced it with an X61 and the temps are all good hope youn don't get those problems guys with this unit


How old it was? Have yout tried RMA it? Corsair have great CS.


----------



## 96accord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> How old it was? Have yout tried RMA it? Corsair have great CS.


Corsair took about 2 days (expected) to reply to my support ticket but said they would RMA my h100i GTX. They do have good CS!


----------



## Derek1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noufel*
> 
> my H110i gtx is officialy dead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> replaced it with an X61 and the temps are all good hope youn don't get those problems guys with this unit


Oh oh. What happened?
I just installed mine the other day.


----------



## spddmn24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> Can anyone confirm if those new H100i V2 save your settings even without Corsair Link installed?
> 
> Since my Arctic's F12 are so silent I'm thinking about running pump and fans 100% 24/7. One less software installed and one less cable to route.


I didn't know they did that. So if I set a custom fan curve in corsair link then uninstall the software it will run that curve?


----------



## juniordnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spddmn24*
> 
> I didn't know they did that. So if I set a custom fan curve in corsair link then uninstall the software it will run that curve?


I believe so. I used an old H80i without the usb cable nor corsair link and it would save the led color and any config I set up on it.

There's an option in Corsair Link under the "Options > Devices" tab called "Use Current Settings as Default". You set it and get a message that the settings were saved on the device memory.

I'll try that later...


----------



## Derek1

Ya I think you can save the settings to file and they will load up on boot.

Got my Hybrid Kit installed today.
Got tired of waiting for the mod parts to come from China so will do that when they arrive and in the meantime will make some tests to do a before and after comparison.

Gonna be hard to beat though I think.
Was running +125 on the Core and +700 on the Mem last night and was pushing 66C at times. Just now ran a quick Valley bench and max temp was 47C.
I did replace the stock paste with GC Xtreme though.


----------



## NYU87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noufel*
> 
> my H110i gtx is officialy dead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> replaced it with an X61 and the temps are all good hope youn don't get those problems guys with this unit


What happened?


----------



## spddmn24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> I believe so. I used an old H80i without the usb cable nor corsair link and it would save the led color and any config I set up on it.
> 
> There's an option in Corsair Link under the "Options > Devices" tab called "Use Current Settings as Default". You set it and get a message that the settings were saved on the device memory.
> 
> I'll try that later...


All my devices tab shows is a window with my cooler model number and firmware. Maybe it doesn't work on coolit pumps?


----------



## Noufel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> How old it was? Have yout tried RMA it? Corsair have great CS.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derek1*
> 
> Oh oh. What happened?
> I just installed mine the other day.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYU87*
> 
> What happened?


it was about 6 months old







and the pump died on me, there wasn't any weird noise or anything else it died just like that, the corsair link showed weird rpm and i couldn't change between perf or silent mod the temps were lik 35-40 idle and 90-100 while gaming


----------



## 96accord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noufel*
> 
> it was about 6 months old
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and the pump died on me, there wasn't any weird noise or anything else it died just like that, the corsair link showed weird rpm and i couldn't change between perf or silent mod the temps were lik 35-40 idle and 90-100 while gaming


Interesting...

My idle temps are 30-40C (normal over the past 1 year since I got it) and playing Steep Beta I hit 80C just a bit ago... BF1/BF4 I hit 90C once. Haven't played it since. I have a 212 EVO sitting here I'm going to swap in and see...


----------



## Derek1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *96accord*
> 
> Interesting...
> 
> My idle temps are 30-40C (normal over the past 1 year since I got it) and playing Steep Beta I hit 80C just a bit ago... BF1/BF4 I hit 90C once. Haven't played it since. I have a 212 EVO sitting here I'm going to swap in and see...


I did an hour of Prime 95 to test mine out when I put it in and it never hit 60C. That is with a 1Gig oc at 1.35v.


----------



## Noufel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *96accord*
> 
> Interesting...
> 
> My idle temps are 30-40C (normal over the past 1 year since I got it) and playing Steep Beta I hit 80C just a bit ago... BF1/BF4 I hit 90C once. Haven't played it since. I have a 212 EVO sitting here I'm going to swap in and see...


try yo reseat the block with good thermal paste ( i use generaly the mx-4 ) and see if that helps if not then you have high temps for a h100i GTX and probably a defective unit like mine


----------



## 96accord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noufel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *96accord*
> 
> Interesting...
> 
> My idle temps are 30-40C (normal over the past 1 year since I got it) and playing Steep Beta I hit 80C just a bit ago... BF1/BF4 I hit 90C once. Haven't played it since. I have a 212 EVO sitting here I'm going to swap in and see...
> 
> 
> 
> try yo reseat the block with good thermal paste ( i use generaly the mx-4 ) and see if that helps if not then you have high temps for a h100i GTX and probably a defective unit like mine
Click to expand...

I tried that already. :-/


----------



## 96accord

Double Post...


----------



## Vario

@96accord:

My H100i pump died on me after 6 months ownership a few years ago.

Started making an increasingly loud whirring noise for about a week. Then it was very quiet but the temperatures skyrocketed. I figured the pump was dead, I put a stethoscope on the pump block and the motor was definitely dead. The temps I got were similar to your experience, I was hitting 90*C or more and the idle temperatures would reach as high as 60 depending on how long the system was operating for.

These things are junk and will fail eventually. You're better off catching it early. I threw mine in the trash and kept the fans, SP120L are pretty good for air coolers I have found. Put the two of them on your Coolermaster 212.


----------



## 96accord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vario*
> 
> @96accord:
> 
> My H100i pump died on me after 6 months ownership a few years ago.
> 
> Started making an increasingly loud whirring noise for about a week. Then it was very quiet but the temperatures skyrocketed. I figured the pump was dead, I put a stethoscope on the pump block and the motor was definitely dead. The temps I got were similar to your experience, I was hitting 90*C or more and the idle temperatures would reach as high as 60 depending on how long the system was operating for.
> 
> These things are junk and will fail eventually. You're better off catching it early. I threw mine in the trash and kept the fans, SP120L are pretty good for air coolers I have found. Put the two of them on your Coolermaster 212.


Thanks for the reply.

I put the CoolerMaster 212 EVO in last night. Temperatures are MUCH better. I'm going to RMA the h100i gtx and see what they find out.

I'm wondering what I need to send back to them for the RMA.


----------



## skysoldier

Hey all.

Welp - I had a Kraken. I loved the Kraken. The kraken loved me.

But CAM is a mess, and I bought an Inwin 303 case at microcenter locally (they clearanced it out to $50 for me) - so I went with a rad that fits with more ease. Corsair H100iv2

I do like the cooler so far, but its smaller and runs warmer than my kraken (i love the kraken). Currently mounting it at the top of my 303, as exhaust, and haven't installed push pull yet - Just push. The fans I'm using are Kingwin 120mm 1500 RPM silent fans, as I love them and they look great. I have a bunch of other fans, including stock 100i fans, laying around - So I'm figuring out what will help me out the most - As I dont think kingwins static rating is particularly great on a RAD. Any suggestions on push/pull? Or fan combos that work well? I cant stand the stock ones because they just run so damned loud - plus, the 303 needs some LED magic









I'll throw up pictures if I can. Basically just wanted to get any tips/suggestions for the 100i any of you may have time to provide, as well as some tips on using link as I'm learning.

Thanks in advance - Now, back to finishing the build!


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vario*
> 
> @96accord:
> 
> My H100i pump died on me after 6 months ownership a few years ago.
> 
> Started making an increasingly loud whirring noise for about a week. Then it was very quiet but the temperatures skyrocketed. I figured the pump was dead, I put a stethoscope on the pump block and the motor was definitely dead. The temps I got were similar to your experience, I was hitting 90*C or more and the idle temperatures would reach as high as 60 depending on how long the system was operating for.
> 
> These things are junk and will fail eventually. You're better off catching it early. I threw mine in the trash and kept the fans, SP120L are pretty good for air coolers I have found. Put the two of them on your Coolermaster 212.


Everything made by human beings will fail eventually. All electric motors will eventually die. Even water blocks for open loop systems fail. All manufactured goods have about a 6% failure rate.
I guess it's all "junk".


----------



## skysoldier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Vario*
> 
> @96accord:
> 
> My H100i pump died on me after 6 months ownership a few years ago.
> 
> Started making an increasingly loud whirring noise for about a week. Then it was very quiet but the temperatures skyrocketed. I figured the pump was dead, I put a stethoscope on the pump block and the motor was definitely dead. The temps I got were similar to your experience, I was hitting 90*C or more and the idle temperatures would reach as high as 60 depending on how long the system was operating for.
> 
> These things are junk and will fail eventually. You're better off catching it early. I threw mine in the trash and kept the fans, SP120L are pretty good for air coolers I have found. Put the two of them on your Coolermaster 212.
> 
> 
> 
> Everything made by human beings will fail eventually. All electric motors will eventually die. Even water blocks for open loop systems fail. All manufactured goods have about a 6% failure rate.
> I guess it's all "junk".
Click to expand...

You forgot to mention that most people die too.









I bet my 100i pump outlives me. And my ancestors pass it down the family line as an heirloom of sorts.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skysoldier*
> 
> You forgot to mention that most people die too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bet my 100i pump outlives me. And my ancestors pass it down the family line as an heirloom of sorts.


Your absolutely right. Even planets don't last forever, and some stars actually blow up prematurely just due to the circumstances of their birth (I think they're called Samsung Stars). It's just more junk.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Got the corsair h100i v2 in my system and so far its been working flawlessly with no issues.


----------



## juniordnz

The H100i V2 is great once you get it installed. The installation proccess can be a pain on small cases due to the hard tubing. But after all that it looks amazing,


----------



## Vario

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skysoldier*
> 
> You forgot to mention that most people die too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bet my 100i pump outlives me. And my ancestors pass it down the family line as an heirloom of sorts.


Hope so.


----------



## juniordnz

@Corsair Joseph or anyone who have done this, please help:

Can I use my H100i V2 with the pump upside down (corsair logo facing down) with the rad mounted vertically? I wanna adapt my H100i on my graphics card and it would be setup like that.

Are there any performance implications? (The rad would be above the pump level)


----------



## Mergatroid

Yes, you can. However, try and have the end of the rad where the hoses enter up higher than the pump if you can to prevent air from getting trapped at the top where the hoses are.
I have successfully done a mount like this and it worked fine.


----------



## juniordnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Yes, you can. However, try and have the end of the rad where the hoses enter up higher than the pump if you can to prevent air from getting trapped at the top where the hoses are.
> I have successfully done a mount like this and it worked fine.


Thanks! I believe I won't be able to keep it all above the pump leve, my Mastercase won't allow it. But I believe that the tubes will be 3cm at most below the pump level where they connect to the rad, being that the rad will then go UP. Maybe turning it on holding the rad above pump level for a few minutes will pump the bubbles to the top of the rad and then I can fix the rad lower.

EDIT: Or, I can always shift my gfx to a lower PCI-ex (since I have two pci-ex x16 on my mobo) port and keep rad way bove it








EDIT: Nope. Bottom slot is rated x16 but will run at x8.


----------



## Mergatroid

I think I said that wrong. It's to keep air from accumulating in the pump.
However, I had an H50 installed in a case with the rad lower than the pump, and it never caused an issue. It did get a little noise once in a while, which may have been air, but it always worked itself out.
Just keep an eye on your temps and keep your ear listening for any unusual noise.


----------



## philhalo66

is there an LGA 1151 Mounting kit for the old H100i? Google gave me no results so i figured id ask here.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> is there an LGA 1151 Mounting kit for the old H100i? Google gave me no results so i figured id ask here.


Should be the same as LGA1150 or LGA 1155. They're backwards compatible as they're the same.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> is there an LGA 1151 Mounting kit for the old H100i? Google gave me no results so i figured id ask here.


If you don't have what you need, contact Corsair. They should be able to send you the correct mounting hardware.

On another note, I am going to be leaving the Hydro series club. I have purchased a Thermaltake 360mm AIO cooler from the egg and am waiting for it to arrive. I would have purchased a Corsair but I really needed a 360mm rad if I was going to keep my Corsair 600T case. After looking at a lot of available cases I realized that the 600T is still pretty nice.

I may have to contact Corsair to get a replacement power button though since mine is getting hard to activate.

I hope this cools down my rather warm running 4770K, and fills the moded top portion of my case.


----------



## philhalo66

well that explains why i didn't find anything. thanks guys. i feel kinda dumb now lol


----------



## DiceAir

If I go from a h100i v1 to a h115i. will I waste my money or will I see big gains. My 4790k for some reason even on 4.4GHZ 1.2v runs 80C+ on realbench.

I already check if cooler has been mounted properly and thermal paste is applied with a small dot size of rice in middle. So no problem with mounting method. Made sure everything is nice and tight.

I can feel the one pipe is getting nice and cool but the other one is warm and that's normal


----------



## juniordnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> If I go from a h100i v1 to a h115i. will I waste my money or will I see big gains. My 4790k for some reason even on 4.4GHZ 1.2v runs 80C+ on realbench.
> 
> I already check if cooler has been mounted properly and thermal paste is applied with a small dot size of rice in middle. So no problem with mounting method. Made sure everything is nice and tight.
> 
> I can feel the one pipe is getting nice and cool but the other one is warm and that's normal


I can't say if your temps are high because my 4790K is delidded since the beginning. I get 70ºC max on the hottest core with 1.36vcore (CLP on die and CLU on IHS).

There has been a nice improvement in the 5th gen asetek's coolers. So you'll probably see a nice temperature decrease going for a H115i. Just know that it is LOUD, and you're probably better off with a H100i V2 if you can't find some good replacement for those 140mm SP140L. (120mm static pressure fans are much easier to find than 140mm)


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> I can't say if your temps are high because my 4790K is delidded since the beginning. I get 70ºC max on the hottest core with 1.36vcore (CLP on die and CLU on IHS).
> 
> There has been a nice improvement in the 5th gen asetek's coolers. So you'll probably see a nice temperature decrease going for a H115i. Just know that it is LOUD, and you're probably better off with a H100i V2 if you can't find some good replacement for those 140mm SP140L. (120mm static pressure fans are much easier to find than 140mm)


What about replacing my current h100i fans to some Vardar fans. Do you have anything to back up your claims about temps improvement going from h100i v1 to v2. I've done some research and everywhere I look they say not a big improvement but something doesn't add up. I know 6700k runs cooler than 4790k but on my work pc with worse airflow and cooler master hyper 212x my cpu is at 4.5GHz 1.3V and getting temps of under 70C when doing realbench.


----------



## juniordnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> What about replacing my current h100i fans to some Vardar fans. Do you have anything to back up your claims about temps improvement going from h100i v1 to v2. I've done some research and everywhere I look they say not a big improvement but something doesn't add up. I know 6700k runs cooler than 4790k but on my work pc with worse airflow and cooler master hyper 212x my cpu is at 4.5GHz 1.3V and getting temps of under 70C when doing realbench.


Although I haven't seen any reviews on those Vardar fans I hear they are pretty good. I replace my two SP120L with four Arctic's F12 CO fans and I couldn't be happier about it. Silent and effective. I even run them full time at 100% because they are so silent.

I have based myself pretty much on tweaktown reviews to purchase my H100i V2. They have a large database of watercoolers reviews and you can see that 5th gen asetek's perform very well. LINK

For those living in the US I'd also recommend Arctic's Liquid Freezer. They use the same 5th gen asetek's design but have thicker rads and come with factory push/pull configuration with those silent F12 PWM I mentioned.

Only reason I bought Corsair's is because of the great customer support they have here in Brazil and also Arctic is not avaiable here.


----------



## felix

I purchased 2x Arctic Cooling F12 PWM CO for a friends H60.

Major improvement, both in noise and temps from the single original fan coming with the cooler.

I have installed them in push-pull supplying air from the rear fan towards the cpu socket.

The only noise produced, is from the rear fan grille of the case (hex cut) due to turbulent flow. Maybe i could get rid of that hex grille by cutting it and install a standard 120mm protection grille.


----------



## juniordnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felix*
> 
> I purchased 2x Arctic Cooling F12 PWM CO for a friends H60.
> 
> Major improvement, both in noise and temps from the single original fan coming with the cooler.
> 
> I have installed them in push-pull supplying air from the rear fan towards the cpu socket.
> 
> The only noise produced, is from the rear fan grille of the case (hex cut) due to turbulent flow. Maybe i could get rid of that hex grille by cutting it and install a standard 120mm protection grille.


They are really, really great. I've seen a big review of radiator air flow with the most popular static pressure fans we can find out there and the arctic's had a performance a little bit better than Noctua's NF12. Never had noctuas so I can't really set that on stone. All I can say is that noctuas costs 2,5x the Arctic's PWM CO and 3,7x the standard Arctic PWM fans here in Brazil...


----------



## felix

True...if only they were available when i bought 9x Gentle Typhoon's 1850rpm for my previous case, priced at ~15€ each, 6 years ago....


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> They are really, really great. I've seen a big review of radiator air flow with the most popular static pressure fans we can find out there and the arctic's had a performance a little bit better than Noctua's NF12. Never had noctuas so I can't really set that on stone. All I can say is that noctuas costs 2,5x the Arctic's PWM CO and 3,7x the standard Arctic PWM fans here in Brazil...


I can get the Arctic f12 PWM CO fans here. They cheaper than corsair new fans. Will it be wise to go for them and see how it improves overall cooling and noise on my current cooler? If it doesn't at least I have better fans now installed. I'm not planning in doing push pull. I will just install them at the bottom of the radiator exhausting air out of the case


----------



## felix

These are the ones i bought :

https://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/arctic-f12-pwm-co.html

They are the F12 PWM PST CO, i forgot to write the "PST" part previously, don't know if is makes difference.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> On another note, I am going to be leaving the Hydro series club. I have purchased a Thermaltake 360mm AIO cooler from the egg and am waiting for it to arrive. I would have purchased a Corsair but I really needed a 360mm rad if I was going to keep my Corsair 600T case. After looking at a lot of available cases I realized that the 600T is still pretty nice.
> 
> I may have to contact Corsair to get a replacement power button though since mine is getting hard to activate.
> 
> I hope this cools down my rather warm running 4770K, and fills the moded top portion of my case.


You'll be missed my friend ... you've been a reliable contributor to this thread for 5 Years!









Hope the 360mm AIO works out for you, but I still think you're going to have to De-Lid to get the results your looking for. As I've become more familiar with Haswell/Skylake and running near max OC's for 24/7 use, 75% of the time there just is no way getting around it unless you significantly back off your OC and vCore.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> If I go from a h100i v1 to a h115i. will I waste my money or will I see big gains. My 4790k for some reason even on 4.4GHZ 1.2v runs 80C+ on realbench.
> 
> I already check if cooler has been mounted properly and thermal paste is applied with a small dot size of rice in middle. So no problem with mounting method. Made sure everything is nice and tight.
> 
> I can feel the one pipe is getting nice and cool but the other one is warm and that's normal


IMHO the H115i would be a waste of money for *Maybe* a 3-4c improvement ... to be hitting 80c with 1.2v you've got a De-Lid candidate for sure. Consensus in the Skylake thread is, I have one of the coolest running 6700K's around and I'm only 10c cooler running Realbench @4.7GHz w/1.26v bios and hyperthreading OFF with the X61 ... I'll easily hit 80c+ with LinX/IBT


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> You'll be missed my friend ... you've been a reliable contributor to this thread for 5 Years!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope the 360mm AIO works out for you, but I still think you're going to have to De-Lid to get the results your looking for. As I've become more familiar with Haswell/Skylake and running near max OC's for 24/7 use, 75% of the time there just is no way getting around it unless you significantly back off your OC and vCore.
> IMHO the H115i would be a waste of money for *Maybe* a 3-4c improvement ... to be hitting 80c with 1.2v you've got a De-Lid candidate for sure. Consensus in the Skylake thread is, I have one of the coolest running 6700K's around and I'm only 10c cooler running Realbench @4.7GHz w/1.26v bios and hyperthreading OFF with the X61 ... I'll easily hit 80c+ with LinX/IBT


I had this cooler for +- 3 years now and my pc is running 24/7.

I tested again by running my 4790k @ 1.2V 4.4GHz and then it reaches about 70-73C. With 4.5GHz 1.2V temps can go to 75-76C per core. I noticed one thing. my package temps is about 75C. I also tested with intel XTU. I did the memory stress test but my package temps go to 80C. with cpu stress test it's about 77C.

When I tried 4.6GHz 1.2v it was unstable with XMP off. Then I tried 4.6GHz 1.225V and still crashes but what I noticed my package temps can go almost 90C and it's when it reaches 90C then I get instant BSOD. I have a feeling temp is my limiting factor but don't understand why a h100i on performance mode and I checked my mount many times and also reapplied thermal paste and also made sure radiator, fans and block is properly installed but still temps is a bit high.

I really don't understand as my work pc running i7-6700k with hyper 212x running at 4.5GHz 1.3V I'm not even reaching 70C maybe 72 max but only for a split second then back down under 70C. That's with a Phanteks enthoo pro with the case under the table so worse airflow than my air 540 and the h100i should be doing better. I know skylake runs cooler than hasswell but shouldn't be that much better on a worse cooler.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I had this cooler for +- 3 years now and my pc is running 24/7.
> 
> I tested again by running my 4790k @ 1.2V 4.4GHz and then it reaches about 70-73C. With 4.5GHz 1.2V temps can go to 75-76C per core. I noticed one thing. my package temps is about 75C. I also tested with intel XTU. I did the memory stress test but my package temps go to 80C. with cpu stress test it's about 77C.
> 
> When I tried 4.6GHz 1.2v it was unstable with XMP off. Then I tried 4.6GHz 1.225V and still crashes but what I noticed my package temps can go almost 90C and it's when it reaches 90C then I get instant BSOD. I have a feeling temp is my limiting factor but don't understand why a h100i on performance mode and I checked my mount many times and also reapplied thermal paste and also made sure radiator, fans and block is properly installed but still temps is a bit high.
> 
> I really don't understand as my work pc running i7-6700k with hyper 212x running at 4.5GHz 1.3V I'm not even reaching 70C maybe 72 max but only for a split second then back down under 70C. That's with a Phanteks enthoo pro with the case under the table so worse airflow than my air 540 and the h100i should be doing better. I know skylake runs cooler than hasswell but shouldn't be that much better on a worse cooler.


Skylake is definitely an improvement over Haswell temp wise when overclocking but not that much, like you say. I wish I had a better, more simple solution for you, but if your Haswell has always run this hot OC'd, which really is quite normal, you have the average crappy Intel IHS attachment process that they have been skimping on since Sandy Bridge. 80% of them are bad, BUT some are even worse than others ... and the ONLY sure-fire cure is a De-lid and reattachment with better TIM (CLU etc) ... If your afraid of the de-lid process, enthusiast have fixed that too! Check out the Rockit88 Tool *HERE*







... a monkey can now do it, and I'd bet you get at least a 20c improvement or more. Some really hot chips like yours(?), have seen a 30c improvement









Now if these rising temps are new and your re-mounts are solid ... well that's another ballgame, but I don't think that is the case here.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Skylake is definitely an improvement over Haswell temp wise when overclocking but not that much, like you say. I wish I had a better, more simple solution for you, but if your Haswell has always run this hot OC'd, which really is quite normal, you have the average crappy Intel IHS attachment process that they have been skimping on since Sandy Bridge. 80% of them are bad, BUT some are even worse than others ... and the ONLY sure-fire cure is a De-lid and reattachment with better TIM (CLU etc) ... If your afraid of the de-lid process, enthusiast have fixed that too! Check out the Rockit88 Tool *HERE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... a monkey can now do it, and I'd bet you get at least a 20c improvement or more. Some really hot chips like yours(?), have seen a 30c improvement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if these rising temps are new and your re-mounts are solid ... well that's another ballgame, but I don't think that is the case here.


Ok so have another thing I can try first. I found a Zalaman CNPS 10x extreme lying around here. So maybe first I should try that and see if I see what my temps is like. if it's better then at least I know my cooler is faulty but if not I would have to delid my chip. I tried it on a first gen i5 and I found easiest way to delid is vice method. I don't use a hammer cause it's risky but what I do is this method



.

For thermal grease on the die I will use Cooler master mastergel maker nano as i's easiest to use and I already bought a few batches for at the office so will just use a little bit. I used it on my gpu cause my gpu was going to 80C easily and man it's amazing. I think it will do a good job although not better than Liquid pro stuff but it's less risky and I guess will be much less risky than using liquid pro stuff.

But first I will try that other cooler and see how that performs as I also had some major issues with using Cooler master mastergel maker on my h100i. When i used that my temps was 90C almost as if it wasn't making good contact but by the looks of it I think it was. This already indicates something is not right. I then went back to Arctic silver and bang temps lower again. Anyway just to sya again will test tonight with the zalman cooler and the cooler master paste and post results back.


----------



## Mergatroid

Hey guys, when you delid do you put the cap back on or do you run the cooler direct to the die?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Hey guys, when you delid do you put the cap back on or do you run the cooler direct to the die?


You can do either, but not replacing the IHS (cap) is a pain because you'll have to build up a "shim wall" to support your cooling block and if it isn't just right you'll damage your chip







... I always replace the IHS and from what I've observed going without isn't always an improvement, just some are ultimate tinkerers/purists


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> You can do either, but not replacing the IHS (cap) is a pain because you'll have to build up a "shim wall" to support your cooling block and if it isn't just right you'll damage your chip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... I always replace the IHS and from what I've observed going without isn't always an improvement, just some are ultimate tinkerers/purists


Ok so I delidded my chip. I used cooler master mastergel nano and now my cpu reaches 75C max under load. What I noticed is that my screws on the h100i might be the fault. It's bend like crazy so maybe that makes the h100i not making full contact with core and thus temps is a bit higher.

I tried a zlaman cnps10x extreme I had lying around but it was pathetic. Was going 90C then went back to h100i and funny enough still 90C. The delid only thing that helped out for me a bit but temps still crazy high. I still think my h100i is faulty due to the screws but I don't know.

Think as long as my pc doesn't crash I will hold out till It's time to upgrade then I will get a new cooler as well.


----------



## PerfectTekniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Ok so I delidded my chip. I used cooler master mastergel nano and now my cpu reaches 75C max under load. What I noticed is that my screws on the h100i might be the fault. It's bend like crazy so maybe that makes the h100i not making full contact with core and thus temps is a bit higher.
> 
> I tried a zlaman cnps10x extreme I had lying around but it was pathetic. Was going 90C then went back to h100i and funny enough still 90C. The delid only thing that helped out for me a bit but temps still crazy high. I still think my h100i is faulty due to the screws but I don't know.
> 
> Think as long as my pc doesn't crash I will hold out till It's time to upgrade then I will get a new cooler as well.


If you think it's just the screws, it's probably worth it to contact our friendly Corsair rep on OC.net and see if he can ship you out from screws. I can't remember his name right now...Joseph? I'm sure if you search this thread you can find him/them.

Edit: Found the rep.
http://www.overclock.net/u/349064/corsair-joseph

Good luck.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> You can do either, but not replacing the IHS (cap) is a pain because you'll have to build up a "shim wall" to support your cooling block and if it isn't just right you'll damage your chip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... I always replace the IHS and from what I've observed going without isn't always an improvement, just some are ultimate tinkerers/purists
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok so I delidded my chip. I used cooler master mastergel nano and now my cpu reaches 75C max under load. What I noticed is that my screws on the h100i might be the fault. It's bend like crazy so maybe that makes the h100i not making full contact with core and thus temps is a bit higher.
> 
> I tried a zlaman cnps10x extreme I had lying around but it was pathetic. Was going 90C then went back to h100i and funny enough still 90C. The delid only thing that helped out for me a bit but temps still crazy high. I still think my h100i is faulty due to the screws but I don't know.
> 
> Think as long as my pc doesn't crash I will hold out till It's time to upgrade then I will get a new cooler as well.
Click to expand...

This is running Realbench at [email protected]? Really sorry to hear that, and your situation is very rare ... I'm wondering if you have an out of spec IHS and/or cooling block in that they (or either) are concave (convex) ... if your ambients are normal appx 22c you should at least be in the mid 60c's load with a de-lid







... I wish I had better/more advice









EDIT: If an AIO replacement as PerfectTekniq above suggests doesn't help, try to get a CPU replacement from Intel themselves ... bad (hot) chips are more common than one would suspect ... Heck even Tom's Hardware got a brand new Kaby Lake 7700K for review and I wouldn't trade my Skylake for that chip for the world ... see *HERE*


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Ok so I delidded my chip. I used cooler master mastergel nano and now my cpu reaches 75C max under load. What I noticed is that my screws on the h100i might be the fault. It's bend like crazy so maybe that makes the h100i not making full contact with core and thus temps is a bit higher.
> 
> I tried a zlaman cnps10x extreme I had lying around but it was pathetic. Was going 90C then went back to h100i and funny enough still 90C. The delid only thing that helped out for me a bit but temps still crazy high. I still think my h100i is faulty due to the screws but I don't know.
> 
> Think as long as my pc doesn't crash I will hold out till It's time to upgrade then I will get a new cooler as well.


I have ordered some Coollaboritory Liquid Ultra TIM in case the Thermaltake cooler still doesn't do the job. If I'm still having temp issues I will delid and use the Ultra on the chip.
I'm very surprised you didn't see much change.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> This is running Realbench at [email protected]? Really sorry to hear that, and your situation is very rare ... I'm wondering if you have an out of spec IHS and/or cooling block in that they (or either) are concave (convex) ... if your ambients are normal appx 22c you should at least be in the mid 60c's load with a de-lid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... I wish I had better/more advice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: If an AIO replacement as PerfectTekniq above suggests doesn't help, try to get a CPU replacement from Intel themselves ... bad (hot) chips are more common than one would suspect ... Heck even Tom's Hardware got a brand new Kaby Lake 7700K for review and I wouldn't trade my Skylake for that chip for the world ... see *HERE*


I canme to realise that it's my actual ambient temps that's also playing a huge roll. Was freaking hot yesterday. Last night when it was a bit cooler I had my cpu on 1.225v 4.6ghz stable. played BF1 on most demanding maps that can hammer the cpu 100% all the time and max temps was 70C and that's fine for me. Was so hot yesterday that my GPU runs about 5-10C higher than it normally does.

I also think when I did the spread method on the die I didn't do it 100% correctly. the one side might not have enough thermal paste on it but at least my pc is not crashing. I think I will worry about this later cause don't want to redo it again now. So far it works and no crashes and temps not reaching 80C and that's good enough for me. CPU will at least last long enough so by the time it dies or before it dies it will be time for upgrade anyway. No use testing cpu and say but temps is not good now but have way hotter ambient temps so for now I'm happy.

Idle Temps was 25C during the night but still it's not that cool during the night. So for now I'm happy.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I still think my h100i is faulty due to the screws but I don't know.


What's wrong with the screws?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> EDIT: If an AIO replacement as PerfectTekniq above suggests doesn't help, try to get a CPU replacement from Intel themselves ... bad (hot) chips are more common than one would suspect ...


Um, pretty sure Intel's not going to give him a new CPU now that he's delidded his. That would have been fair game before the delid though. In any event those temps do seem fairly high, I'm wondering about the "screws issue" on his H110i.

On another topic (well still about Hydro series units







), I recently "fixed" a couple older Hydro units...

I had an old H100 (original edition with the corrugated hoses!) that I had removed from a PC a couple years ago and just had lying around. It had a very loud rattle as if the pump was going to fail or something. I originally meant to RMA it but Corsair asked me to find the receipt which I couldn't at the time. I probably could have kept at them and gotten a replacement given I have a lot of other Corsair products (which I found all the receipts for, _except_ the damn H100, lol) but I just forgot about it. That unit was replaced with an H100i in that system and I just had that old one lying around. I recently moved around some components/reconfigured some systems in my house and then I was left with a Lynnfield i7(LGA1156) without a cooler. It was previously on an Asetek 120mm solution (Antec Kuhler 620) but I then repurposed that case and cooler to an LGA1150 system and it now cools an i3.

So I ventured into seeing what I could do with the old H100 given an OC'd Lynnfield is not going to do so well on a stock cooler, lol. I searched around and found this thread right here on OCN:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1236923/corsair-h100-h80-h60-noise-grinding-pump-fix-official-corsair-response
And realized I probably had the same problem. I tried the diode trick at first but it wasn't lowering the voltage enough it seemed to stop the rattle. But lowering the voltage from a header resulted in a definite stop-rattle! However I could only run the pump around 1500 RPM in order to stop the rattle (stock RPM is 1900-2000 IIRC). Interestingly enough once I installed it in the system it seemed to get better and I could then run it at ~1700-1800 RPM (or up to 90% voltage off the header) and the rattle would cease. At first I wasn't getting that good temps even with the pump at full RPM (and rattling away)--could of sworn it was cooler on the 120mm Asetek AIO. But then I found the problem! I didn't see it at first but the _very_ edge of the pump/block was sitting on a line of caps near the socket--I realized this because the thermal paste was not quite all the way to one edge when I removed the block. Simply enough I just rotated the block such that it definitely cleared all caps and now temps are quite good







as low as 25C idle and high 50s under LinX loading, with reasonable fan speeds (replaced the original fans with two SP120 performance fans).

The way it works now is from BIOS/boot the H100 will get 100% voltage at startup (meaning rattle) but once Windows boots in and SpeedFan loads, it pulls it down to lower volts (90%) and rattle gone thereafter. I actually set it up so if the CPU gets to the really cool temps (under 27C) then the pump reduces even further to 80% as it still does make a _little_ noise and going down to 80% makes it dead silent. 90% is max though (once load happens) and it doesn't rattle there and is still over 1700RPM which seems sufficient to run the loop and give good cooling. It's an old unit, but still managed to get it working pretty well and without the rattle









Secondly, I rigged up an H105 on an LGA775 socket...without needing to buy the entire Asetek LGA775 kit off eBay (would have been like $30 CAD after shipping for me!). Instead I just used the backplate from the older Asetek (as it has LGA775 provisions) and then drilled out the top plate a little from the H105. Stupidly the Kuhler 620 was a newer-than-the-oldest version (oldest would have come with the full 775 kit) so it just had a 775-compatible _backplate_ but not top-plate/inserts. So I had to drill out the newer top-plate, then improvise because I lost the standoffs somehow, but in the end it was a success! I detailed the whole thing here on the Corsair Forums, for anyone interested in that:
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?p=881429#post881429

Idle temps on an overvolted C2Q seem to never get that great as I guess the idle power savings modes/features weren't as good as newer CPUs. So at idle I'm at 34-39C (one core reads higher than the others on my CPU) but at load it's pretty great--under 60C on this one as well and I'm pretty sure it burns a good bit more power than the OC'd Lynnfield does. Funny enough they're both at 3.6Ghz, one is Xeon X3360 (Q9550) and the other is a Xeon X3460 (i7-860), both at similar voltages (though the 1156 system has the advantage of dynamic voltage and better idle power as well), and both at similar temps (but the C2Q requires more cooling to get the same temps). The Lynnfield of course is a much faster CPU overall but for "general use" stuff the old Yorkfield is surprisingly spry!

I guess the moral here is old hardware (and old Hydros) can still make good PCs!


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> What's wrong with the screws?
> Um, pretty sure Intel's not going to give him a new CPU now that he's delidded his. That would have been fair game before the delid though. In any event those temps do seem fairly high, I'm wondering about the "screws issue" on his H110i.
> 
> On another topic (well still about Hydro series units
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), I recently "fixed" a couple older Hydro units...
> 
> I had an old H100 (original edition with the corrugated hoses!) that I had removed from a PC a couple years ago and just had lying around. It had a very loud rattle as if the pump was going to fail or something. I originally meant to RMA it but Corsair asked me to find the receipt which I couldn't at the time. I probably could have kept at them and gotten a replacement given I have a lot of other Corsair products (which I found all the receipts for, _except_ the damn H100, lol) but I just forgot about it. That unit was replaced with an H100i in that system and I just had that old one lying around. I recently moved around some components/reconfigured some systems in my house and then I was left with a Lynnfield i7(LGA1156) without a cooler. It was previously on an Asetek 120mm solution (Antec Kuhler 620) but I then repurposed that case and cooler to an LGA1150 system and it now cools an i3.
> 
> So I ventured into seeing what I could do with the old H100 given an OC'd Lynnfield is not going to do so well on a stock cooler, lol. I searched around and found this thread right here on OCN:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1236923/corsair-h100-h80-h60-noise-grinding-pump-fix-official-corsair-response
> And realized I probably had the same problem. I tried the diode trick at first but it wasn't lowering the voltage enough it seemed to stop the rattle. But lowering the voltage from a header resulted in a definite stop-rattle! However I could only run the pump around 1500 RPM in order to stop the rattle (stock RPM is 1900-2000 IIRC). Interestingly enough once I installed it in the system it seemed to get better and I could then run it at ~1700-1800 RPM (or up to 90% voltage off the header) and the rattle would cease. At first I wasn't getting that good temps even with the pump at full RPM (and rattling away)--could of sworn it was cooler on the 120mm Asetek AIO. But then I found the problem! I didn't see it at first but the _very_ edge of the pump/block was sitting on a line of caps near the socket--I realized this because the thermal paste was not quite all the way to one edge when I removed the block. Simply enough I just rotated the block such that it definitely cleared all caps and now temps are quite good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as low as 25C idle and high 50s under LinX loading, with reasonable fan speeds (replaced the original fans with two SP120 performance fans).
> 
> The way it works now is from BIOS/boot the H100 will get 100% voltage at startup (meaning rattle) but once Windows boots in and SpeedFan loads, it pulls it down to lower volts (90%) and rattle gone thereafter. I actually set it up so if the CPU gets to the really cool temps (under 27C) then the pump reduces even further to 80% as it still does make a _little_ noise and going down to 80% makes it dead silent. 90% is max though (once load happens) and it doesn't rattle there and is still over 1700RPM which seems sufficient to run the loop and give good cooling. It's an old unit, but still managed to get it working pretty well and without the rattle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Secondly, I rigged up an H105 on an LGA775 socket...without needing to buy the entire Asetek LGA775 kit off eBay (would have been like $30 CAD after shipping for me!). Instead I just used the backplate from the older Asetek (as it has LGA775 provisions) and then drilled out the top plate a little from the H105. Stupidly the Kuhler 620 was a newer-than-the-oldest version (oldest would have come with the full 775 kit) so it just had a 775-compatible _backplate_ but not top-plate/inserts. So I had to drill out the newer top-plate, then improvise because I lost the standoffs somehow, but in the end it was a success! I detailed the whole thing here on the Corsair Forums, for anyone interested in that:
> http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?p=881429#post881429
> 
> Idle temps on an overvolted C2Q seem to never get that great as I guess the idle power savings modes/features weren't as good as newer CPUs. So at idle I'm at 34-39C (one core reads higher than the others on my CPU) but at load it's pretty great--under 60C on this one as well and I'm pretty sure it burns a good bit more power than the OC'd Lynnfield does. Funny enough they're both at 3.6Ghz, one is Xeon X3360 (Q9550) and the other is a Xeon X3460 (i7-860), both at similar voltages (though the 1156 system has the advantage of dynamic voltage and better idle power as well), and both at similar temps (but the C2Q requires more cooling to get the same temps). The Lynnfield of course is a much faster CPU overall but for "general use" stuff the old Yorkfield is surprisingly spry!
> 
> I guess the moral here is old hardware (and old Hydros) can still make good PCs!


Screw are bent a little bit. The ones that you screw into the backplate so i think my cooler is not making proper contact with the cpu but just enough to make it cool a little bit. hard to explain. Also my cooler is scratched a bit so that might also be the issue but so far no crashes on my system so will wait when i upgrade my cpu then get a new cooler as well


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Screw are bent a little bit. The ones that you screw into the backplate so i think my cooler is not making proper contact with the cpu but just enough to make it cool a little bit. hard to explain. Also my cooler is scratched a bit so that might also be the issue but so far no crashes on my system so will wait when i upgrade my cpu then get a new cooler as well


If the standoffs are bent you may not be getting proper/even pressure of the block/pump to the IHS. This is actually *very important* on liquid cooling blocks and can make quite a difference in load temps (though idle temps might seem fine). This is basically exactly what happened to me when I had the H100 I spoke of above, just barely sitting on the caps. So the screws giving insufficient contact/pressure may be your problem right here. You may want to order a new set of standoffs/screws from Corsair.

If the surface of the cold plate is scratched, you could try polishing/lapping that out depending on how bad it is. If it's not that bad though, you can just do the ol' "fix" with thermal paste by using paste and a flat card/blade to try to "fill in" the scratched areas with thermal paste. However I think the scratching (unless severe) is much less of an issue here than is the proper mount pressure.

Crashing due to high temp is relatively rare with more modern CPUs so you probably won't have a problem there. Core temp can get up to 100C on most Intel CPUs and still be fine; and if it hits that the CPU will thermal throttle which should prevent damage/crashing. Still, it's not exactly good to run your CPU that hot. Just because temps are still usable, doesn't mean you're getting the proper performance out of your cooler--your core temps should probably be lower and I think you really should look into getting new mounting hardware to see if that fixes things.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> If the standoffs are bent you may not be getting proper/even pressure of the block/pump to the IHS. This is actually *very important* on liquid cooling blocks and can make quite a difference in load temps (though idle temps might seem fine). This is basically exactly what happened to me when I had the H100 I spoke of above, just barely sitting on the caps. So the screws giving insufficient contact/pressure may be your problem right here. You may want to order a new set of standoffs/screws from Corsair.
> 
> If the surface of the cold plate is scratched, you could try polishing/lapping that out depending on how bad it is. If it's not that bad though, you can just do the ol' "fix" with thermal paste by using paste and a flat card/blade to try to "fill in" the scratched areas with thermal paste. However I think the scratching (unless severe) is much less of an issue here than is the proper mount pressure.
> 
> Crashing due to high temp is relatively rare with more modern CPUs so you probably won't have a problem there. Core temp can get up to 100C on most Intel CPUs and still be fine; and if it hits that the CPU will thermal throttle which should prevent damage/crashing. Still, it's not exactly good to run your CPU that hot. Just because temps are still usable, doesn't mean you're getting the proper performance out of your cooler--your core temps should probably be lower and I think you really should look into getting new mounting hardware to see if that fixes things.


Well for now after delidding the cpu I'm getting max temps of 77C in extreme cases and that's when it's 30C and maybe a bit higher in my room. We heat wave where i stay currently so extremely hot. I think for 4.4GHz stock clock it should be fine for now. Was thinking of getting a new cooler but will wait a bit cause by the time I upgrade there might be much better coolers in the market. a 4790k is no slouch when it comes to gaming even at 4.4GHz. i was just wondering why I was seeing the high temp but like I said i sort of minimized the issue so it's kinda fixed but not 100%. Still my temps seems fine.

I played the devision yesterday and temps is reching nowhere near 80C i think about 70-75C max and that's fine for now. Might degrade the chip just a bit but I'm sure it's slow enough so that I will upgrade before i's time for the CPU to break.


----------



## WindowsRevenge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Well for now after delidding the cpu I'm getting max temps of 77C in extreme cases and that's when it's 30C and maybe a bit higher in my room. We heat wave where i stay currently so extremely hot.


Oh yeah, looks like you're in South Africa--missed that. Yeah I guess your ambient is partly to blame in that case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> I think for 4.4GHz stock clock it should be fine for now. Was thinking of getting a new cooler but will wait a bit cause by the time I upgrade there might be much better coolers in the market.


Meh, I doubt there's really going to be any huge advances in cooling. You could use a first-gen Hydro (like I did with the old H100 I had) and the temps aren't going to be much different--maybe a 2-5 degrees better on an OC'd system with one of the newer ones. Basically you can "upgrade" to something with a thicker rad (like the H105 which isn't even made/sold any more, but it sacrifices any of the additional features like CL). You can get a similar Asetek cooler in the Arctic Cooling Liquid Freezer 240 which has the same 38mm rad as the H105, a newer gen Asetek block, and _four_ included fans. Either that or a 280mm or 360mm unit. OR of course, a custom loop, which will be even better but a lot more expensive.

Then there's also the alternative of just using a massive air cooler like a D14 or D15.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> a 4790k is no slouch when it comes to gaming even at 4.4GHz. i was just wondering why I was seeing the high temp but like I said i sort of minimized the issue so it's kinda fixed but not 100%. Still my temps seems fine.


If you're okay with the temps and you're not reaching throttling temp I guess that's fine. And you're right a 4790K is definitely no slouch--it's still a pretty darn fast CPU, not sure you need to do any upgrading for a while, unless you need some of the new things like USB-C & 3.1 Gen2, Thunderbolt, etc.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> I played the devision yesterday and temps is reching nowhere near 80C i think about 70-75C max and that's fine for now. Might degrade the chip just a bit but I'm sure it's slow enough so that I will upgrade before i's time for the CPU to break.


70-75C...that's OC'd or stock speed? Just wondering because you mentioned stock above though I think you were talking about OC'd before.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindowsRevenge*
> 
> Oh yeah, looks like you're in South Africa--missed that. Yeah I guess your ambient is partly to blame in that case.
> Meh, I doubt there's really going to be any huge advances in cooling. You could use a first-gen Hydro (like I did with the old H100 I had) and the temps aren't going to be much different--maybe a 2-5 degrees better on an OC'd system with one of the newer ones. Basically you can "upgrade" to something with a thicker rad (like the H105 which isn't even made/sold any more, but it sacrifices any of the additional features like CL). You can get a similar Asetek cooler in the Arctic Cooling Liquid Freezer 240 which has the same 38mm rad as the H105, a newer gen Asetek block, and _four_ included fans. Either that or a 280mm or 360mm unit. OR of course, a custom loop, which will be even better but a lot more expensive.
> 
> Then there's also the alternative of just using a massive air cooler like a D14 or D15.
> If you're okay with the temps and you're not reaching throttling temp I guess that's fine. And you're right a 4790K is definitely no slouch--it's still a pretty darn fast CPU, not sure you need to do any upgrading for a while, unless you need some of the new things like USB-C & 3.1 Gen2, Thunderbolt, etc.
> 70-75C...that's OC'd or stock speed? Just wondering because you mentioned stock above though I think you were talking about OC'd before.


yeah on stock my boost is 4.4GHz 1.2V. my temps is alright and weverything seems stable. I pushed it to 4.5GHz and all seems to be dfine so far. no throttling and overheating. doesn't go above 80C unless it's super hot here but even then it hardly goes over 80C for long periods. Guess I can at least wait till amd releases ZEN and I hope it's good cause I'm no fanboy I just go for more value for money options and according to a leak zen is running with luiquid metal under the heatspreader so might run nice and cool then. but will see when it releases.

if I hadd slight voltages even 1.225V my temps goes high but on stock 1.194-1.2v it's fully stable. Like I said before when I buy my new cpu I will get a decent cooler with it as well.


----------



## 9colai

Hi all!

I have a h80i gt on a 3770k @ 4,5GHz. I'm about to delid and relid the cpu soon, but I'm concerned about the water/pump temp on my h80i.

I have seen the temperature go up to 45 degrees celcius and I expect it to go even higher after delid due to better heat transfer from the cpu to the cooler.

Is it normal with 45 degrees? Is there any limit?

Best regards
Nicolai


----------



## neurotix

Unfortunately I have some bad news, it seems I ruined my CPU cooler (H100i original), if it isn't that then I have no idea what's wrong. I decided to paint the tubing on my H100i. I wanted to paint it red to match my red/black theme and I had some of the red spraypaint left over that I used on my fan grills. Initially, I had just wanted to cover the tubing with sections of tubing of a thicker size. So, I'd use red custom water cooling tubing, measure and cut a length of it, cut a slit in the back all the way, and then fit it over the H100i tubing. This would make it look like I had colored tubing on my hoses. Well, it didn't work so well because the H100i tubes run pretty close together at points. So, my fiance suggested I paint them instead. I did.

The paint job turned out well and they LOOK great, the problem is that before this, my temps at 4.5ghz 1.175v (delidded 4790k) were around 62C in x264, after painting the tubes that's up to like 78C after just a minute of it.







4.8ghz is even worse and not doable at all, before painting, 4.8ghz 1.325v was around 75C max, now it goes all the way to 99C, throttles and crashes my system.























Does anyone know why this could be? I already remounted the water block, thinking that I used too much thermal paste. My H100i's water block is not the best anymore, having seen continuous use for 3 years now, I have to use a LOT of thermal paste or I get very bad temps. Using just a pea sized amount (smaller, really), enough to cover the die only from pressure, gives terrible temps. I have to use a fat blob of it, enough that it spreads and covers the whole chip IHS, and when I take my block off there's quite a bit of it on extra. The ONLY thing I have changed is that I painted my hoses, I also had to pull on them a bit, bend them, straighten them out and generally move them to be able to paint them. It seems either doing this or painting them has ruined the unit. And yes, the SATA power is connected, the fans are facing the right way, the fans are working, and afaik the pump is working (pump fan header is connected and reads ~2300 RPM in BIOS, like it should).

My fiance feels so bad that she told me to paint the hoses and it ruined my setup, she bought me a new H100i V2...the newer edition of what I have. It will be here tomorrow. I suppose I'll install it and see what my temps are with the new unit. If they're better then, I'll know for sure that painting or something else (bending hoses) ruined it. Still, I'd like to know if there's any reason the hoses couldn't be painted, if somehow heat transfers through them stock or something.

I posted this elsewhere too but, you guys in this club have any insight?


----------



## WindowsRevenge

I don't think the paint on the hoses would have ruined anything, but TBH you should have used plasti-dip instead of paint--removable, more flexible (no craking/flaking) and overall safer on the hoses (less worries about it eating through or damaging them somehow).

I suspect you simply didn't install the block properly after painting, because that seems to cause a high-percentage of poor cooling problems, provided the pump is operating.

The alternative is in moving the thing around so much you may have trapped a pocket of air somewhere, this is less likely but I think a possibility. Is the pump making any gurgling noises at all? If it's not already mounted in the case like this, I would try running the pump (with the PC off otherwise) for a while with the pump/block below the rad and the rad hoses at the bottom of the radiator (and the radiator standing vertically). Let it run like that for a few hours and that should move air, if any, out to the top of the rad.

I really can't see how merely painting the hoses would cause that--it's like saying you put your hand on the hoses and the temp skyrocketed, lol. Just doesn't happen like that...unless of course some of the paint chemicals _somehow_ permeated through the hoses and into the coolant. But I still don't think even that would cause that much of a difference TBH.

You shouldn't have to be using "a lot" of thermal paste either. Using too much usually gives worse temps but _having_ to use a lot indicates there's *a problem with pressure/contact*. It seems this problem may have existed before the painting, but to a lesser degree. You should thoroughly check the mount hardware--backplate, top plate, screws, etc. for anything that's not straight/true. Make absolutely certain nothing is interfering with contact including components on the board like caps or chokes.


----------



## neurotix

I'm gonna check all this stuff now. Thanks for the advice. Rep+

EDIT: Right, I'm so psyched! I fixed the problem.

It wasn't a bad mount, I checked. I looked at the back of my motherboard (can see it all on my case) and pushed on it and such before taking the block off, it was totally secure and tightened down, and all the screws were totally tight and in the right places (basically the backplate was the way it was supposed to be- I've used an H100i in my build for over 4 years- I would know).

Anyway I removed the waterblock and reseated it, but this time instead of using my new Gelid GC-Extreme paste, I used my old trusty 30g tube of Prolimatech PK-3 Nano. This time when putting the block on, when tightening the thumb screws I made sure to pull up on them a bit to make sure they weren't off center, getting stuck, and so on. Well, now my temps are back to normal, around 58C at 4.5ghz running x264, and 82C more or less at 4.8ghz. *So I'm satisfied.* I've done so much messing with this thing in the last few weeks that I'm done. I'm doing nothing more to it since it's running well. But thanks for the help.

I'm still getting the H100i V2, I'm not sending it back, I will hang on to it and perhaps install it in a few months when it's time to take the rad out, take the fans off and clean it. I'll put the new one in then, and in any case, now I have a backup unit.

Sorry if I was any trouble guys.


----------



## Mergatroid

I highly recommend you test that new cooler as soon as you get it. I have seen many people wait so long to test new products that they couldn't just send it back for a replacement if it didn't work properly.


----------



## neurotix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I highly recommend you test that new cooler as soon as you get it. I have seen many people wait so long to test new products that they couldn't just send it back for a replacement if it didn't work properly.


Advice noted.


----------



## 96accord

Update: Shipped my h100i GTX back to Corsair 2 (?) weeks ago and received a replacement unit 2 days ago.

Thanks Corsair but doubt I'll use it since I don't trust it lol


----------



## juniordnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *96accord*
> 
> Update: Shipped my h100i GTX back to Corsair 2 (?) weeks ago and received a replacement unit 2 days ago.
> 
> Thanks Corsair but doubt I'll use it since I don't trust it lol


If you want to get rid of it you can ship it to me


----------



## 96accord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> If you want to get rid of it you can ship it to me


For free? lol

I have it just sitting under my desk in the box from corsair lol


----------



## juniordnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *96accord*
> 
> For free? lol
> 
> I have it just sitting under my desk in the box from corsair lol


I was kidding, mate









I'm pretty happy with my H100i V2 on the CPU and got another one in the box that will soon be on my 1080. Custom loop not affordable/available down here...

Did you get a V2 for replacement?


----------



## 96accord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> I was kidding, mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you get a V2 for replacement?


I know you were kidding









and lol Corsair doesn't like me that much. Just another GTX


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *96accord*
> 
> Update: Shipped my h100i GTX back to Corsair 2 (?) weeks ago and received a replacement unit 2 days ago.
> 
> Thanks Corsair but doubt I'll use it since I don't trust it lol


Huh? Why wouldn't you trust it? Thousands, if not millions of people use these water coolers without any issues. The failure rate is quite low, and Corsair will, if shown damage was caused by their product, replace damaged components. I have heard people say Corsair has actually replaced some components with upgraded ones.

I have sold a ton of these coolers to my customers, and I have personally used three of them in my own computers, and many of my friends have also used them, and not a single one has come back so far (knock wood).

News flash, everything made by human beings breaks down. Everything. It's too bad you happened to get a bad one, but that doesn't make them all bad.


----------



## 96accord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Huh? Why wouldn't you trust it? Thousands, if not millions of people use these water coolers without any issues. The failure rate is quite low, and Corsair will, if shown damage was caused by their product, replace damaged components. I have heard people say Corsair has actually replaced some components with upgraded ones.
> 
> I have sold a ton of these coolers to my customers, and I have personally used three of them in my own computers, and many of my friends have also used them, and not a single one has come back so far (knock wood).
> 
> News flash, everything made by human beings breaks down. Everything. It's too bad you happened to get a bad one, but that doesn't make them all bad.


Oh I understand that there is a failure rate for any product. I'm fine with that and expect that.

I switched out the h100i GTX when I sent it back to Corsair for a CM Hyper 212 EVO and have been running that for the past 3? weeks. I'm at the same temperatures that I was with the h100i GTX (before it started to have issues). The 212 EVO is much quieter.

I have no reason to switch back to the h100i GTX at this time. It's not worth the time to swap it back in nor worth the noise (louder) it is.


----------



## Mergatroid

The evo is a really good cooler for sure. The only reason I could see to switch to a clc is to open up the centre of your rig and get rid of the huge metal block hanging off your CPU. Still, the evo is pretty damn nice.


----------



## 96accord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> The evo is a really good cooler for sure. The only reason I could see to switch to a clc is to open up the centre of your rig and get rid of the huge metal block hanging off your CPU. Still, the evo is pretty damn nice.


I mean looks wise the CLC are much nicer looking. But I don't have a clear side-panel so I don't care (to a certain extent) what it looks like inside. Of course I want good airflow (no cables just hanging around lol)


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *96accord*
> 
> Oh I understand that there is a failure rate for any product. I'm fine with that and expect that.
> 
> I switched out the h100i GTX when I sent it back to Corsair for a CM Hyper 212 EVO and have been running that for the past 3? weeks. I'm at the same temperatures that I was with the h100i GTX (before it started to have issues). The 212 EVO is much quieter.
> 
> I have no reason to switch back to the h100i GTX at this time. It's not worth the time to swap it back in nor worth the noise (louder) it is.


I'm actually replacing my h100i v1 wwith a phanteks PH-TC14PE cause I feel air cooling is much quieter and in some cases cools better. Have a heatsink and airflow going around the cpu socket is also a plus for me. I think my case supports the cooler but will see later this week. I might post some before and after results. My h100i can't even cool my delided 4790k 4.4GHz at 1.2V. Temps is about 75-80C and I used decent thermal paste ion the die cuase I'm scared to use liquid metal.

I'm so excited to see what an air cooler can do and as far as I remember my silver arrow (1st edition) was maybe just a little bit worse than my h100i but the noise was so good. Have that cooler now in another pc running a 4690k @ 1.275V 4.6Ghz and temps is between 65-75C when stress testing the cpu and that's in a crappy case with no intake (fan broke) and also sitting under a desk where it's super hot so even then it does better than my h100i on my 4790k (I know it runs hotter) with better airflow in case, better fans and way more expensive cooler.


----------



## KUbeastmode

Before I went to a custom loop. I would recommend one of these if you just want to cool your CPU.


----------



## philhalo66

Is there any way to flash my H100i with the 1.0.5 Firmware? I been dealing with flickering LED's ever since i updated past that and It's driving me insane but i can't find any info at all on corsair link 4 about firmware.


----------



## Removed1

Have the same problem with my H100i, the logo white flash each 5/10sec even if the led is colored.
I don't mind but for who is caring about it is pretty annoying.
I don't know if u can revert the firmware, all i can say, there is no options on Corsair link to downgrade the firmware.

Since i'm the owner of 2 corsair IAO, a H100i and a H100, i wanted to share my tank/tubing mod.
1st: this mod was done buying cheap second hand corsair IAO, so there were not under warranty anymore and had almost more than 2/3 years.
2nd: this mod aimed to get better performance from these IAO, like it is often said, some air cooler perform almost the same as these Corsair IAO even being a watercooling solution.
3rd: This mod aimed to merge both cpu/vga corsair IAO into a single loop, proposing a more common watercooling loop like a custom one.

My experience with the stock ones: performances are great, but not what u can expect with a watercooling solution, i mean if your purpose is just to keep your cpu/vga cold without huge overclocking, these IAO are really good, since they are almost silently cooling stock parts.
The problem went if u are a serious clocker like me, that really want to push the cpu and gpu as far it could. Then i had no experience on watercooling before, i always been under air, extreme air cooling but still air it is.
So i got a bit deceived when i noticed that the cooler had some problem chilling my cpu, after a certain T°/TDP the IAO just drop his bag and go home, like the liquid inside couldn't handle the cpu/gpu anymore.
It is a normal behavior, but i just expected that i could dissipate more heat using a watercooling solution, but obviously was not the case. At this point i though it was because they were old and maybe the liquid evaporate.

So my 1st try was to change the tubes, clean the pump/block (the h100i fins were badly clogged, the older h100 was perfect) on both IAO and refill them with deionized water.
It went well, but the refilling was a pain in the assss. I put them under stress and the performances were a bit better on the cpu loop and really worst on the gpu IAO. My problem here was the refill, it was so hard to refill them without a tank that i just felt the water was not doing its job, especially on the H100 cooling my R9 290.
Not happy with my mod/performances i decided to merge both IAO in a single loop and add a tank/reservoir to help me to fill the loop, like i see in the beautiful videos on utube.









So i bought a 8e tank, with 9.5mm fitting, on aliexpress (because it was impossible to find a cheap acrylic tank, yes, ppl that watercool must spend 30e for that







), and some new tubes, same as the old ones used for the 1st mod.
*The Corsair H100i have 9/9.5mm inner diameter tubes*, so i went for them, so if u plan to do the mod, u will need to buy a 9/10mm to get the best fit into the pump/radiator.
*The Corsair H100 have 6mm inner diameter tubes*, so they will not match with the H100i. The trick here is to cut the H100 tubes leaving the original 6mm tubing on the end of the H100 pump/radiator fitting. And magically a 9/10mm inner tube will fit perfectly on top of the old tubing u left on the H100 fitting.
Then i build the loop like a custom wc, tank=>H100i/cpu=>gpu rad=>H100/gpu=>cpu rad=>tank. I put the tank like on normal wc, on the top of the 1st pump, like this it is easy to fill the loop.
For the liquid mix, i used distilled water adding 20% of car anti-freeze. Before mounting the loop i cleaned again the blocks/pump/rads, for the rad i used hot tap water and vinegar to be sure to clean them.

Well after done this mod i can tell u that the efficiency of the stock Corsair IAO is really poor.
I get truly awesome T° compared to the stock one/1st mod, in the same conditions *of open case*.
Now it hold a R9 290 oc to 1280mhz at 1.3v at 67/68° max and the 2600k at 4.7Ghz at 1.4v at 65° max for the package, 68° the hottest core. It is loud when i push the vga to the max, but i could almost turn off the fans when the vga is running at stock.
Before i could just achieve to get 4.5Ghz on the cpu and was already hitting 75°+ and a stable 1200mhz on the vga, here too hitting more than 70/75°.

To conclude my experience on second hand old corsair IAO, they are good but dunno if corsair really fill them decently and overtime some will get fins badly clogged.
When i emptied them for the 1st time, there were not a lot of liquid, the pressure inside the loop was negative, air entered when i cut the tubes the 1st time.
So imo corsair do not fill well their IAO, if i weigh the radiator now and when i get it, now it is full of water and feel quite heavy compared the stock one.
I must say it took me almost 1h to completely fill the loop, even with a tank, it took me a lot of time to empty all the bubbles/air trapped into the radiator.
That's why i had the feeling that these IAO are really great if they were really filled full like a custom wc, i really get the feeling that is not the case looking the amount of heat the stock one could dissipate and after the mod.
So if u want to refresh your old IAO not under warranty, just order a tank and get this mod, u will not be deceived by it, especially because in my experiance i could really push more like it was a custom wc.









So there are the pics, i m sorry for the quality, they came from my old smartphone.
*1st Try.*







*2nd Try with the merged loop*


----------



## Derek1

Quick question.
Can I use the H60 with an Asus Z170 A and 6600K?
I misread the spec sheet and saw that it is not supposed to be compatible after installing it.
Install seemed to go fine and appears to have good contact with IHS.
But now I am wondering if it actually is.
Idle temps are 27C and really haven't pushed the CPU yet.
Thanks


----------



## Removed1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derek1*
> 
> Quick question.
> Can I use the H60 with an Asus Z170 A and 6600K?
> I misread the spec sheet and saw that it is not supposed to be compatible after installing it.
> Install seemed to go fine and appears to have good contact with IHS.
> But now I am wondering if it actually is.
> Idle temps are 27C and really haven't pushed the CPU yet.
> Thanks


Idle t° are indicative but do not represent how the IAO is working on your 6600K.
Get Prime95 or OCCT or any stress bench and look for the full load t°


----------



## juniordnz

Prime is so unrealistic and unnecessary heat producing that I wouldn't recommend it.

I've found real bench to be a nice, real world, stress test application that can generate an amount of heat similar to what you would find in daily usage. If you don't wanna stress the gpu just run x264 only.

BTW, I'm highly in favor of delidding. Best thing I ever did. I can run my 4790K at 1.37V below 70ºC 24/7. And that only with a H100i v2.


----------



## Removed1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> Prime is so unrealistic and unnecessary heat producing that I wouldn't recommend it.
> 
> I've found real bench to be a nice, real world, stress test application that can generate an amount of heat similar to what you would find in daily usage. If you don't wanna stress the gpu just run x264 only.
> 
> BTW, I'm highly in favor of delidding. Best thing I ever did. I can run my 4790K at 1.37V below 70ºC 24/7. And that only with a H100i v2.


The small problem with real daily application bench is: it could need you 2 week to find out your cpu is not stable, just because this day you run your favorite game, you get an update on something and etc, etc etc application on same time.
OCCT or Prime or what else tell me in 30min/1h if my cpu is maybe stable, then run at least 6/12h to claim is rock stable.
I could understand you not agree on the rock stable thing, but at least test it 30min.
So if you never run a decent stress on you cpu you can't say it is stable, the usual gaming application do not represent stability. No applications give me the same ammount of heat than OCCT linkpack, i'm running folding at home atm and my cpu T° is 3/5° less than OCCT.
I rather prefer lower the clock some mhz and be sure than my cpu is at least decently stable, than push and get some random crash or bad performances.


----------



## Derek1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wimpzilla*
> 
> Idle t° are indicative but do not represent how the IAO is working on your 6600K.
> Get Prime95 or OCCT or any stress bench and look for the full load t°


Ya I figured that would be the route to go. Thanks.
Any idea what temps I can expect if it is working vs poor contact?


----------



## Removed1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derek1*
> 
> Ya I figured that would be the route to go. Thanks.
> Any idea what temps I can expect if it is working vs poor contact?


The ramping t° when the cpu is full load.
If you pass from 24° to 60° for example and then the t° ramp quickly over 70/80/90°, you could assume there is a problem somewhere, especially at stock. Unfortunately i didn't own this cpu, just look for into the previous pages to check people t°.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> Prime is so unrealistic and unnecessary heat producing that I wouldn't recommend it.
> 
> I've found real bench to be a nice, real world, stress test application that can generate an amount of heat similar to what you would find in daily usage. If you don't wanna stress the gpu just run x264 only.
> 
> BTW, I'm highly in favor of delidding. Best thing I ever did. I can run my 4790K at 1.37V below 70ºC 24/7. And that only with a H100i v2.


Just so no one here gets the wrong idea:

Prime95 and Intel Burn Test are excellent for stress testing an overclock. If a system will handle those two pieces of software then real world tasks like gaming should be perfectly stable.
In fact, those two pieces of software have become the defacto standard for stress testing an overclock. Since they stress every system the same, they are great pieces of software for comparing systems.

I wouldn't consider my overclock stable if it couldn't run IBT for at least an hour looping. If you only use "real world conditions" to test your overclock then you will never know when a new "real world condition" might come along that will crash your computer because your overclock was only stable for the old conditions.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Just so no one here gets the wrong idea:
> 
> Prime95 and Intel Burn Test are excellent for stress testing an overclock. If a system will handle those two pieces of software then real world tasks like gaming should be perfectly stable.
> In fact, those two pieces of software have become the defacto standard for stress testing an overclock. Since they stress every system the same, they are great pieces of software for comparing systems.
> 
> I wouldn't consider my overclock stable if it couldn't run IBT for at least an hour looping. If you only use "real world conditions" to test your overclock then you will never know when a new "real world condition" might come along that will crash your computer because your overclock was only stable for the old conditions.


I've noticed that sometimes a system can hanfdle any stress test but when you have different type of loads being from 0-100% laod it can become unstable. I have tested my 4790k @ 4.8GHz @ 1.270V and could do intel XTU on both memory and cpu tests but playing games makes it crash. Realbench was also stable so I think they mu8st make a test that will stress it 100% but also have an option to do a moderate load let's say it goes from 100% to 50% then back to 100% then down to 20% and so on. just so you can test how it performs.

What happened with me was manual voltage with speedstep and c-states disabled was stable under XTU 4.8ghz 1.260V but then I enabled only speedstep and c-states and cpu wasn't stable any more. So maybe I just hit a wall with my cpu and can't go further unless i change my cpu core volts to over 1.3V but I don't think worth going from 4.6GHz to 4.8GHZ having to change so much. think 4.6GHz still a very good overclock as I'm running 2400mhz ram.

I find itnel xtu and realbnech to be the best overclocking stability testing tool. Test tehn with real world games that's very demanding on cpu like BF1, BF4 to see if it's stable or if you not gaming on the system just do some video converting to also check stability. Any stress testing tool can pass but when you play games it can still be unstable especially when you use adaptive or manual with speedstep and c-states enabled.


----------



## TomcatV

*THE NEVER-ENDING STABILITY DEBATE ...*

Everyone (Wimpzilla, juniordnz, Merg, DiceAir) gets a cookie (+R) for making strong points ... but possibly overlooked and certainly should be the 1st question anyone asks before giving "Stability" advice is ... What is the machines/user's "Mission Objective"? Is it for mostly gaming or are you calculating rocket trajectories for NASA? Maybe you have a business where your encoding tasks have to be done as fast as possible with 100% accuracy? Personally I don't believe anyone's machine can ever be "Totally Stable" if you are running any components out of spec ie. CPU/GPU even ram at XMP settings (varying quality mem controllers anyone?). Who in the heck runs their ram at a Platforms certified spec? ... too many variables including even slight changes in humidity/ambient temps, but this is why we luv sites like OCN, to push the limits and share results while trying to get the most out of our systems









I was with you junior in that P95 just wasn't good anymore for real world stability testing for the "newer" platforms. The heat generated was unrealistic and even more so with IBT and LinX. BUT I still find Small FFT's (10min) very useful for initially gaging a new systems temps, and it will find instability very quickly (10-20min) when your finding your new max clocks along with 1344FFT's. That along with *Realbench* (nice program!) for long term stability are my go to programs these days. BUT there are also games out there (BF1/W3/GTA5) that have crashed my system when I thought I was stable with P95/OCCT/Realbench/Firestrike/Heaven and Heavensward a brutal GPU bench. And here is a key point ... couldn't nail down if it was my CPU or GPU OC that was the offender because it stabilized when lowering either clock, but, and here's the Kicker, lowering my ram overclock also worked and my CPU/GPU's were happy







...

Raged edge of performance? Yea it truly is a balancing act that will keeps us all entertained for the foreseeable future as long as there is a Free Market and the likes of the Clinton's/Gore's of the world don't get their way and try to eventually "legislate" every aspect of our lives ... oooops too soon









Here's an interesting chart from Darkwizzie and his Skylake thread ...
EDIT: Note this was done with a De-lidded 6600K (only 4 cores) and an X61


----------



## juniordnz

Well, the guy asked about a way to test his temperatures. And for that, prime and linpack are extremely unrealistic.

For stability I do agree there are more fail proof ways to test than x264 or realbench. But hey, each one has a goal with their systems. Mine is gaming, so I don't need to do rocket science on it, so I don't need to be fail proof 100%.

To me, 8h realbench run and I'm set.


----------



## Mergatroid

Without testing for the worst case scenario, you never know when some software might come along that could crash your computer. Especially if you overclock.
Always hope for the best, but prepare for the worst.


----------



## QuacK

Hi guys,

Sorry for this long post









Is anyone here using CM Storm Stryker and a 240/280mm aio cooler who can advise me which one to get?

Im looking to get an all in one watercooler to cool my i7 4790K in my Cooler Master Storm Stryker case.

Right now im using two Aerocool 140mm Shark Devil Red Edition fans in the TOP of my case set to exhaust. So there should be place for a 280mm radiator, but before I buy anything I will neasure how much clearance I have between the mobo and the top of the case to make sure I have enough room.

Im looking at some AIO coolers online and did alot of reading, but the more I read, the more I start doubting about which cooler would be best for me.

The ones I am looking at are:

Corsair Hydro series H115i: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-h115i-280mm-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-coole

This seems to me the most performant cooler that I could get, but I would definetly replace the stock fans to less noisy fans.

Corsair Hydro series H100i v2 http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-h100i-v2-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler

This is the one im leaning towards the most as of this moment, mostly because it should be a little less audible than the H115i. Also the H100i v2 is rated to have a little more static pressure, but less CFM though, but from what I understand static pressure is most important for radiator fans?

And lastly the Swiftech H240 X2 watercooling kit: this was at first my favorite, because it should be the most quiet cooler, plus it can be ecpanded to cool GPU too.

Sadly I read alot of negative things about this cooler, mostly from people that claim that some parts would break very soon, and alot of leaking issues.

This is the one I would like to get the most, but the negative things I read about Swiftech made me move away a bit to look for other options.

IMPORTANT: Keep in mind that my main goal to watercool is to get more room in my case so I can move my GPU to the PCI-e x16 slot. Also its more important to me that its not very loud.

So performance pretty comes last on my list of requirements. But I hope I don't have to lose too much performance to get a bearable audible cooler. I will be connecting the fans to the motherboard to control via e.g Corsair Link software, or the mobo.

I am not on a budget, so money doesn't matter to me, and I will probably change the fans of the Corsair coolers if I choose one of those two.

I think all of these coolers mentioned will perform pretty much similar, so what I am looking for is the one that would be reliable and best to make a quiet cooling configuration.

So which one should I get? and please mention why when recommending something









And also, can anyone recommend me any fans that would be good to replace the stock Corsair fans that will be less audible but still perform pretty well?

Any help would be much appreciated!

Thanks.


----------



## LostParticle

@QuacK, hello and a Happy New Year to you









I do not have experience with your chassis, neither with any of the AIOs you're looking to purchase. My CPU coolers are shown in my sig_rig. If I were you, though, I would get the Hydro Series H115i 280mm. I would test it for about two weeks with its stock fans under all kinds of scenarios of my personal computer use, and then, if I'd get disappointed from its fans, I would get 2 x Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC 2000 PWM, and call it a day. I would run them constantly at around 800 - 1000 RPM, and would use their full potential when and IF I would need to do so.

This is what I am currently doing with my H110, and with the 2000 and 3000 industrial Noctuas I own. This period I'm using an open-air rig with my Noctua NH-D15S. The rig is located at the level of my monitors, on a stand next to my desk. The 2 fans I use (2 x NF-A15) are running constantly at around 1000 RPM. They do not bother me at all, their sound feels just as an indication that my system is powered on. The same amount of noise I get when I use my AIO with the industrial fans mentioned above. Everything depends from how fast you will run the fans.

Finally, as we both live in Europe I agree with you about Swiftech. I would not purchase it, either.
I also see that you live in the Netherlands? Even better for you! I had to use the EXCELLENT Corsair Technical support, a couple of times. I have replaced my Corsair H110 once, I have also replaced my Corsair PSU once. And some other stuff. In all of these situations I had to send my products in Almere, the Netherlands, if I recall correctly the name of the place. Absolutely no problem for me, got served superbly by Corsair's awesome support! Even better for you who is already living closer over there, I'd say!

Just my 2c until someone with your chassis will, hopefully, provide a better insight.

Good Luck with your purchase.


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> @QuacK, hello and a Happy New Year to you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do not have experience with your chassis, neither with any of the AIOs you're looking to purchase. My CPU coolers are shown in my sig_rig. If I were you, though, I would get the Hydro Series H115i 280mm. I would test it for about two weeks with its stock fans under all kinds of scenarios of my personal computer use, and then, if I'd get disappointed from its fans, I would get 2 x Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC 2000 PWM, and call it a day. I would run them constantly at around 800 - 1000 RPM, and would use their full potential when and IF I would need to do so.
> 
> This is what I am currently doing with my H110, and with the 2000 and 3000 industrial Noctuas I own. This period I'm using an open-air rig with my Noctua NH-D15S. The rig is located at the level of my monitors, on a stand next to my desk. The 2 fans I use (2 x NF-A15) are running constantly at around 1000 RPM. They do not bother me at all, their sound feels just as an indication that my system is powered on. The same amount of noise I get when I use my AIO with the industrial fans mentioned above. Everything depends from how fast you will run the fans.
> 
> Finally, as we both live in Europe I agree with you about Swiftech. I would not purchase it, either.
> I also see that you live in the Netherlands? Even better for you! I had to use the EXCELLENT Corsair Technical support, a couple of times. I have replaced my Corsair H110 once, I have also replaced my Corsair PSU once. And some other stuff. In all of these situations I had to send my products in Almere, the Netherlands, if I recall correctly the name of the place. Absolutely no problem for me, got served superbly by Corsair's awesome support! Even better for you who is already living closer over there, I'd say!
> 
> Just my 2c until someone with your chassis will, hopefully, provide a better insight.
> 
> Good Luck with your purchase.


Hey man

Happy New year to you and everyone else too









Thanks for your suggestions.
I know its all about the fans to achieve less noise vs performance.

I've been reading so much stuff about the coolers I mentioned and I just can't make up my mind about it.

Also I have looked at ALOT of fans in case I want to replace the stock ones. But there are just so many....

The Swiftech Seems to be amazing, from most reviews I read, but also there are a decent amount of people that I read from who had issues with leaking or failing components.

Without those negative comments it would be a much easier choise and I would get the Swiftech H240 X2. Mostly because ifrom what I read they are very quiet even with stock fans and still perform decent even at lowest RPM settings.

Right now I am running my i7 4790K @1.31v (4.8GHz) and my Noctua NH-D15 plus all my case fans all at lowest RPM and still during gaming I never see my CPU temps go over 70C.

I do love overclocking though and I can run 5GHz easily, but i've stepped away from hammering my CPU with hours of stresstests (specially after 4.7GHz / 4.8GHz) as stresstesting will get it to hot.
So I just play games and my CPU stays very cool at low RPM settings.

So I don't need very high RPM settings, so the quiet mode of either one of the Corsair coolers will probably give enough performance.

I dont know... I just can't decide, probably because I want it to be perfect for my needs


----------



## LostParticle

I understand you, @QuacK.

If I would be you I would ask myself:

- IF something will go wrong with my new AIO, in which case will I be served in the fastest and mostly hassle-free manner, as possible? With Swiftech or with Corsair?

Now, I do not have any experience with Swiftech but I have plenty of excellent experience with Corsair customer support. And you, definitely, live much closer to Almere, the Netherlands, than me.

Besides that, I would not puzzle myself with the fans, so much. Since you are not in a budget, why not purchase a really powerful set of fans, IF and only IF Corsair's will not please you. And have all the power you need in your house, to use it whenever you will require it? Isn't it better to have it than to not have it?

In any case, your chassis' airflow and the rest of your system plays a major role, so I would wait for someone with your chassis to chime in. I had a look at some pix of your chassis and it appears pretty restrictive, in airflow, to me.

If it helps a bit, I am also running my i7-4790K at a per-core OC of x50 x50 x49 x48, cache x44, Adaptive VCore = 1.4V in the BIOS, Adaptive Cache V = 1.2V in the BIOS, Vccin = 1.7V, and I have never faced any high temps in any type of use, with the 2 CPU coolers shown in my sig_rig. We do different things with our computers though, and we have different computer cases. (and different ambient temps).

I'm sure someone with your setup will respond soon.


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> I understand you, @QuacK.
> 
> If I would be you I would ask myself:
> 
> - IF something will go wrong with my new AIO, in which case will I be served in the fastest and mostly hassle-free manner, as possible? With Swiftech or with Corsair?
> 
> Now, I do not have any experience with Swiftech but I have plenty of excellent experience with Corsair customer support. And you, definitely, live much closer to Almere, the Netherlands, than me.
> 
> Besides that, I would not puzzle myself with the fans, so much. Since you are not in a budget, why not purchase a really powerful set of fans, IF and only IF Corsair's will not please you. And have all the power you need in your house, to use it whenever you will require it? Isn't it better to have it than to not have it?
> 
> In any case, your chassis' airflow and the rest of your system plays a major role, so I would wait for someone with your chassis to chime in. I had a look at some pix of your chassis and it appears pretty restrictive, in airflow, to me.
> 
> If it helps a bit, I am also running my i7-4790K at a per-core OC of x50 x50 x49 x48, cache x44, Adaptive VCore = 1.4V in the BIOS, Adaptive Cache V = 1.2V in the BIOS, Vccin = 1.7V, and I have never faced any high temps in any type of use, with the 2 CPU coolers shown in my sig_rig. We do different things with our computers though, and we have different computer cases. (and different ambient temps).
> 
> I'm sure someone with your setup will respond soon.


It makes alot of sense what you're saying









Its not worth the risk to me, and as you say I can always get different fans if needed to get rid of the noise.

Im also looking to replace the case fans im using now because they're too loud for me at full speed, but I have yet to find fans that will perform similar / maybe a little bit worse in return for less noise.


----------



## Khr1s

Hey guys, I am looking to buy an AIO to cool my 4790K and I am choosing between 4 products:

1) Corsair H110i
2) Corsair H115i

I know that the main difference between these two is that one is using an Asetek pump and the other a CoolIT pump. After a long read I believe that the H110i has better software/firmware but H115i is a little bit better performance. Is this true? I can order them for the same price (128 euros)

My other two options are:

3)Enermax Liqmax II 240: I am considering this because I can buy it for 50 euros. It's one of the cheaper AIO without many reported leak issues.It's pred Also it doesn't have a specific software so it's more plug once and forget product.

4) Deepcool Captain 240 EX: I really like it's look but I am reading that many people had leak issues with it. I know that all AIO may leak but if it happens Corsair Support team is one of the best.

So my question is:

Is the two Corsair products price(78euros more) justified over the Enermax? Also if I go for Corsair which one of them should I buy considering price is not an issue?


----------



## tknight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khr1s*
> 
> Hey guys, I am looking to buy an AIO to cool my 4790K and I am choosing between 4 products:
> 
> 1) Corsair H110i
> 2) Corsair H115i
> 
> I know that the main difference between these two is that one is using an Asetek pump and the other a CoolIT pump. After a long read I believe that the H110i has better software/firmware but H115i is a little bit better performance. Is this true? I can order them for the same price (128 euros)
> 
> My other two options are:
> 
> 3)Enermax Liqmax II 240: I am considering this because I can buy it for 50 euros. It's one of the cheaper AIO without many reported leak issues.It's pred Also it doesn't have a specific software so it's more plug once and forget product.
> 
> 4) Deepcool Captain 240 EX: I really like it's look but I am reading that many people had leak issues with it. I know that all AIO may leak but if it happens Corsair Support team is one of the best.
> 
> So my question is:
> 
> Is the two Corsair products price(78euros more) justified over the Enermax? Also if I go for Corsair which one of them should I buy considering price is not an issue?


The H115i is the best one out of all 4 products.

The only recommendation is to change out the included fans to better fans, like the Noctua Industrial Series 140mm PWM fans, either the 2000 or 3000rpm versions.
This will give the H115i better performance and the Noctua Industrial fans are much quieter and smoother at low rpms and push a lot more air at max rpms when needed.


----------



## Khr1s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tknight*
> 
> The H115i is the best one out of all 4 products.
> 
> The only recommendation is to change out the included fans to better fans, like the Noctua Industrial Series 140mm PWM fans, either the 2000 or 3000rpm versions.
> This will give the H115i better performance and the Noctua Industrial fans are much quieter and smoother at low rpms and push a lot more air at max rpms when needed.


Thank you for your response! So you say that the H115i worths the price difference from the enermax cooler? I can't afford to change the stock fans soon because the price will be even higher...


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tknight*
> 
> The H115i is the best one out of all 4 products.
> 
> The only recommendation is to change out the included fans to better fans, like the Noctua Industrial Series 140mm PWM fans, either the 2000 or 3000rpm versions.
> This will give the H115i better performance and the Noctua Industrial fans are much quieter and smoother at low rpms and push a lot more air at max rpms when needed.


Thanks for the fan recommendation.

I was gonna go for 2 of these to put on the cooler: http://www.aquatuning.nl/luchtkoeling/axiale-ventilatoren/21318/corsair-ml-series-ml140-pro-led-red-premium-magnetic-levitation-fan-140x140x25?sPartner=googleshoppingnl&gclid=Cj0KEQiA7qLDBRD9xJ7PscDCu5IBEiQAqo3BxCr3YgNhcv5kZU1sJGQV-wR6AmIn6t1ZyfEaqjT6kDsaAtVM8P8HAQ

The're also pretty good probably, but now I read more about the noctua industrial fans that they perform very well even at low RPM's, I think im gonna go with the Noctua's.

I'll either get a H110i or a H115i, not sure yet which one.
First of all ill have to bring my PC over to a friend who built my PC and will build in the cooler, and we'll have to measure clearance between the top of my case and the motherboard and RAM to see how much clearance we have.

Also, like @Khr1s I've also read about the H110i having better firmware to work better with Corsair Link, so im leaning more towards the H110i now.

Also, I have heard from a friend who has a H100i, that the H115i is more difficult / different to mount. Is this true?


----------



## tknight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khr1s*
> 
> Thank you for your response! So you say that the H115i worths the price difference from the enermax cooler? I can't afford to change the stock fans soon because the price will be even higher...


Yes I think it is worth the price difference as it will outperform the Enermax 240, and it has a bigger radiator surface than the Enermax for better heat dissipation.

I can vouch from personally having used the H115i, that it can handle cooling a 6700K overclocked to 5.0ghz, under heavy load such as Prime95 and XTU Benchmark.


----------



## tknight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuacK*
> 
> Thanks for the fan recommendation.
> 
> I was gonna go for 2 of these to put on the cooler: http://www.aquatuning.nl/luchtkoeling/axiale-ventilatoren/21318/corsair-ml-series-ml140-pro-led-red-premium-magnetic-levitation-fan-140x140x25?sPartner=googleshoppingnl&gclid=Cj0KEQiA7qLDBRD9xJ7PscDCu5IBEiQAqo3BxCr3YgNhcv5kZU1sJGQV-wR6AmIn6t1ZyfEaqjT6kDsaAtVM8P8HAQ
> 
> The're also pretty good probably, but now I read more about the noctua industrial fans that they perform very well even at low RPM's, I think im gonna go with the Noctua's.
> 
> I'll either get a H110i or a H115i, not sure yet which one.
> First of all ill have to bring my PC over to a friend who built my PC and will build in the cooler, and we'll have to measure clearance between the top of my case and the motherboard and RAM to see how much clearance we have.
> 
> Also, like @Khr1s I've also read about the H110i having better firmware to work better with Corsair Link, so im leaning more towards the H110i now.
> 
> Also, I have heard from a friend who has a H100i, that the H115i is more difficult / different to mount. Is this true?


Corsair Link works perfectly with H115i and I think the H115i cpu block design looks more sleek, than the H110i with its hoses sticking out from the side. Plus the H115i is a newer product the H110i, so it does have newer firmware.

The H115i is not anymore difficult to mount than the H100i. The only installation difference between the two of them, is that the H115i uses a Sata Power connector plugged directly into the PSU, to provide power to the pump, whereas the H100i uses a 3 pin fan header to power its pump from a motherboard header. Personally I prefer the H115i method of powering the pump.


----------



## Removed1

The H115I is a bit more difficult to mount because it is a 2*140mm radiator/fans, 280mm. So you need to have the space and the adequate fitting holes on your case to mount it decently.
Not all the cases have 280mm holders.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuacK*
> 
> ...
> 
> Im also looking to replace the case fans im using now because they're too loud for me at full speed, but I have yet to find fans that will perform similar / maybe a little bit worse in return for less noise.


For this, better head to *this thread* and post your questions, preferably with a good photo of your system.


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tknight*
> 
> Corsair Link works perfectly with H115i and I think the H115i cpu block design looks more sleek, than the H110i with its hoses sticking out from the side. Plus the H115i is a newer product the H110i, so it does have newer firmware.
> 
> The H115i is not anymore difficult to mount than the H100i. The only installation difference between the two of them, is that the H115i uses a Sata Power connector plugged directly into the PSU, to provide power to the pump, whereas the H100i uses a 3 pin fan header to power its pump from a motherboard header. Personally I prefer the H115i method of powering the pump.


Alright thanks.

And how is the method to provide powering the pump for the H110i?

Having the pump powered from a motherboard header does allow for controlling pump speeds right?

I don't think it is really necessary to control pump speeds though, or is it?


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wimpzilla*
> 
> The H115I is a bit more difficult to mount because it is a 2*140mm radiator/fans, 280mm. So you need to have the space and the adequate fitting holes on your case to mount it decently.
> Not all the cases have 280mm holders.


Thanks

i'll keep that in mind before choosing which cooler ill get.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> For this, better head to *this thread* and post your questions, preferably with a good photo of your system.


I will go ahead and ask in that thread, thanks for the link


----------



## tknight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wimpzilla*
> 
> The H115I is a bit more difficult to mount because it is a 2*140mm radiator/fans, 280mm. So you need to have the space and the adequate fitting holes on your case to mount it decently.
> Not all the cases have 280mm holders.


The actual mounting procedure for either the H115i and the H100i is identical and one is not more difficult than the other.

Whether your case supports a 280mm radiator or just a 240mm radiator, has no bearing on the actual difficulty level of installing the above Corsair AIO's.

It goes without saying that your case must support a 280mm radiator, otherwise its going to be difficult to impossible, to install a radiator that a case does not support.

But as long as the case supports the radiator size, then installation of the H115i is not anymore difficult, than installing a H100i in a case that supports it.


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tknight*
> 
> The actual mounting procedure for either the H115i and the H100i is identical and one is not more difficult than the other.
> 
> Whether your case supports a 280mm radiator or just a 240mm radiator, has no bearing on the actual difficulty level of installing the above Corsair AIO's.
> 
> It goes without saying that your case must support a 280mm radiator, otherwise its going to be difficult to impossible, to install a radiator that a case does not support.
> 
> But as long as the case supports the radiator size, then installation of the H115i is not anymore difficult, than installing a H100i in a case that supports it.


Alright thanks for the help.

Guess i'll be joining the club soon then, in a couple of weeks or so probably


----------



## tknight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuacK*
> 
> Alright thanks.
> 
> And how is the method to provide powering the pump for the H110i?
> 
> Having the pump powered from a motherboard header does allow for controlling pump speeds right?
> 
> I don't think it is really necessary to control pump speeds though, or is it?


No the Corsair AIO's do not support controlling the pump from the motherboard header. The motherboard header in the case of the H100i, only provides the power to the pump.

To control the pump speed it must be done using Corsair Link as it writes the settings to the firmware in the AIO, where you have two speeds, either quiet (approx. 1850 rpm) or performance (approx. 2800 rpm).


----------



## tknight

Pump speeds do make a difference to temperature. I just always left my H115i on performance which was full speed for the pump.

It comes by default set to quiet.


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tknight*
> 
> No the Corsair AIO's do not support controlling the pump from the motherboard header. The motherboard header in the case of the H100i, only provides the power to the pump.
> 
> To control the pump speed it must be done using Corsair Link as it writes the settings to the firmware in the AIO, where you have two speeds, either quiet (approx. 1850 rpm) or performance (approx. 2800 rpm).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tknight*
> 
> Pump speeds do make a difference to temperature. I just always left my H115i on performance which was full speed for the pump.
> 
> It comes by default set to quiet.


Alright.

Performance is not my biggest requirement.

That is having more room in my case and having a cleaner looking build, and also im gonna try to go for a more silent configuration.

But so aslong as I can control things via Corsair Link, ill be fine


----------



## Removed1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tknight*
> 
> The actual mounting procedure for either the H115i and the H100i is identical and one is not more difficult than the other.
> 
> Whether your case supports a 280mm radiator or just a 240mm radiator, has no bearing on the actual difficulty level of installing the above Corsair AIO's.
> 
> It goes without saying that your case must support a 280mm radiator, otherwise its going to be difficult to impossible, to install a radiator that a case does not support.
> 
> But as long as the case supports the radiator size, then installation of the H115i is not anymore difficult, than installing a H100i in a case that supports it.


Yes i agree, my "difficulty" meaning was not related like you said, to the mounting itself, i'm sorry.









Yes, was more to point out to be sure it is compatible with your case, and sometime it could may be a bit tricky depending if the case is well done for accepting 280mm rad+fans within the others components.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tknight*
> 
> Pump speeds do make a difference to temperature. I just always left my H115i on performance which was full speed for the pump.
> 
> It comes by default set to quiet.


I fully agree with you on everything you have suggested, so far!









Just out of curiosity: - Is the pump of the H115i audible, at full speed? Does it make noise, at full speed?

I own and use the Corsair H110, so the older model, and I cannot hear my pump, ever! Even if I will approach my ear at a few centimeters distance from it, and try to listen, I cannot hear it.


----------



## tknight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> I fully agree with you on everything you have suggested, so far!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just out of curiosity: - Is the pump of the H115i audible, at full speed? Does it make noise, at full speed?
> 
> I own and use the Corsair H110, so the older model, and I cannot hear my pump, ever! Even if I will approach my ear at a few centimeters distance from it, and try to listen, I cannot hear it.


No the pump on the H115i at full speed is not audible at all.

Its that quiet, that I always use to touch one of the hoses and feel the vibration of the water running inside it, to check the pump was working, when I didn't have Corsair Link open to see the rpms.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuacK*
> 
> ...
> 
> I'll either get a H110i or a H115i, not sure yet which one.
> First of all ill have to bring my PC over to a friend who built my PC and will build in the cooler, and we'll have to measure clearance between the top of my case and the motherboard and RAM to see how much clearance we have.
> 
> ....


Surely, it's the best thing to do, however I'm looking at your chassis' specs right now, *the stryker*, and it says "Radiator Support, Top: 240 / 280mm x 1" so the H115i should fit in there. Hope I got it right.

One last thing: I would never install and use Corsair Link. I would install it once, setup the AIO, and then completely remove it. Just my 2c + it interferes badly with my permanent monitoring tool - HWiNFO64!

@tknight, thank you!


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Surely, it's the best thing to do, however I'm looking at your chassis' specs right now, *the stryker*, and it says "Radiator Support, Top: 240 / 280mm x 1" so the H115i should fit in there. Hope I got it right.
> 
> One last thing: I would never install and use Corsair Link. I would install it once, setup the AIO, and then completely remove it. Just my 2c + it interferes badly with my permanent monitoring tool - HWiNFO64!
> 
> @tknight, thank you!


Technically it should fit yeah.

But my Gigabyte Z97 SOC Force mobo or the RAM could be an issue, but from what I estimate myself now I think it should fit.

But to be sure ill have my friend measure.

About the software, I know it can be a little wonkey yeah, thanks for the tip









And thanks alot guys for helping me make up my mind on choosing cooler and fans









I'll post some pictures once the changes to my build have been completed, in a couple of weeks hopefully


----------



## nesham

In last 6 months I have problem with H100i GTX V1 that under load temps goes very quckly to over 70°C and coolant is in 40°+.
I replaced few times nt-h1 paste and reseated varmplate but nothing helps.
When CPU is @default temeperature of CPU is around 60°C under load and coolant is around 42°C.
When CPU is @4.6GHGz and under load temperature of processor goes to 82.5°C and coolant @44°C+ and computer shutsdown.
Is it posible that pump or coolant is problem?
In first year it runs processor @4.8GHz and temperature never goes over 70°C.
MB: Asus M5A-99XEVO
CPU: FX8350
Case: Phanteks Enthoo PRO
Fans: Front Phanteks 200mm, back Phanteks 140mm, down Akasa 140mm and on top Corsair radiator with push out vents.
Also 80mm vent pushes air on mosfet cooler and slim noctua 120mm on the back mosfets. In attachment are pictures of corsair li
nk status.

images of corsair link when H100i GTX is in performace mode @load & @idle & processor is @default. Just image with 82.5°C @processor is @4.6GHz&1.4V. Load is Handbrake video conversion of 5 minutes UHD video to FHD





*CPU @4.6GHz Handbrake as load and H100i GTX in performance mode*



image of corsir link when H100i GTX is in balanced mode & processor is @default



I can't even dare to use qiet profile or load in balanced mode even with processor @default.
RMA request sendt.
PS: I remove dust from case and coolers minimum one time in 4-6 months and smoetimes more frequently.
PPS: I apologies for my english but I'm not native speaker and/or writer.

*UPDATE*
Same Processor, voltage for CPU, RAM also @2133 MHz, same case, same number of vents and Cryorig R1 Universal @4.6Ghz and LINX AVX load with 8GB mem usage *temp is lower for CPU 19°C and for socket 2°C then with H100i GTX in performance mode.*


----------



## Removed1

Are you sure you placed correctly the IAO backplate, on my H100i the backplate have a defined position, if you invert it, you get bad cpu/block contact and bad t°.
If the backplate is not the problem, either the mounting have some problem, verify the thermal paste footprint on cpu, if it is good, only thing is RMA.

The IAO leaked? Could be some air entered inside, the liquid evaporate, even the fins get clogged or the pump stopped working.
My water t° on the H100i is 34° maximum full load, on the stock one i had it never above 36°.
So here you have a pump problem maybe, since the coolant do not goes through the radiator.
You heard the pump work?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wimpzilla*
> 
> Are you sure you placed correctly the IAO backplate, on my H100i the backplate have a defined position, if you invert it, you get bad cpu/block contact and bad t°.
> If the backplate is not the problem, either the mounting have some problem, verify the thermal paste footprint on cpu, if it is good, only thing is RMA.
> 
> The IAO leaked? Could be some air entered inside, the liquid evaporate, even the fins get clogged or the pump stopped working.
> My water t° on the H100i is 34° maximum full load, on the stock one i had it never above 36°.
> So here you have a pump problem maybe, since the coolant do not goes through the radiator.
> You heard the pump work?


You must live on an amazing planet if you are only hitting 34c at full load.


----------



## juniordnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> You must live on an amazing planet if you are only hitting 34c at full load.


I believe he said his WATER temp was hitting 34ºC. And that's pretty much what I see here too.


----------



## Removed1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> You must live on an amazing planet if you are only hitting 34c at full load.


Yes water t° or more precisely IAO block t°. It is the t° i read near the H100i into the corsair link. I put some additional thermal paste between the thermal diode and the copper block.
To get better readings, but it is true, is not purely the water t°.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> I believe he said his WATER temp was hitting 34ºC. And that's pretty much what I see here too.


Exact, i saw a small difference between the old H100i stock +/- 34/37°, when refilled 36°, and now into a loop fully filled 33/34°, full load cpu/gpu. If i run only the cpu the t° do not raise over 30°.
Like i said before IAO in general are efficient under moderate load, when you go over a defined TDP, the block heat too much and since there is some air within the loop, the water tend to evaporate/phase change diminishing the IAO cooling efficiency.


----------



## Mergatroid

Wow, that's not even warm enough for a cuppa Joe...


----------



## nesham

Processor @default H100i GTX @quiet mode and abnormal temperatures.



I got today answer from corsair support team that it is maintenance issue and that I need to blowout dust from radiator and I done that before 4 (four) days.


----------



## juniordnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nesham*
> 
> Processor @default H100i GTX @quiet mode and abnormal temperatures.
> 
> 
> 
> I got today answer from corsair support team that it is maintenance issue and that I need to blowout dust from radiator and I done that before 4 (four) days.


Get that pump to performance mode, you won't hear it anyway. Water temp can go that high if you have it on quiet mode and you live in a hot country with no ambient temperature control. I've seen mine reach 40+ and then realized it was set to quiet mode (don't know why). Switched back to performance and it's all good now.


----------



## Removed1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> Get that pump to performance mode, you won't hear it anyway. Water temp can go that high if you have it on quiet mode and you live in a hot country with no ambient temperature control. I've seen mine reach 40+ and then realized it was set to quiet mode (don't know why). Switched back to performance and it's all good now.


+1000









Always take first in account your ambient t°. The t° i got now would be not the same in summer. I couldn't think to run my actual oc with 26°/30° ambient t°, now its 12°/20°.








Sometimes moving the case, up side down could remove some nasty trapped air bubble, like it was said put it on perf mode and move the case gently.
Check the mounting, the back plate orientation and the thermal paste footprint to find out if the issue is simply the mounting.
Last thing check your stock mb settings, like set the vcore manually, dont let it in auto etc, maybe it is just a bad bios setting.
If you used the mb cpu fan header to power the IAO, look for more aggressive pwm fan speed or i suggest you wisely to plug the IAO 3 pin power directly to a 12v source like the power supply.


----------



## nesham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> Get that pump to performance mode, you won't hear it anyway. Water temp can go that high if you have it on quiet mode and you live in a hot country with no ambient temperature control. I've seen mine reach 40+ and then realized it was set to quiet mode (don't know why). Switched back to performance and it's all good now.


I live in Norway and now is winter and living room is always @22-23°C. Thats temperatures are @default clock of processor and [email protected] @4.6GHz temperature of processor under load (handbrake) goes to 82.5°C and coolant @44.5°C in performance mode.


----------



## nesham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wimpzilla*
> 
> +1000
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always take first in account your ambient t°. The t° i got now would be not the same in summer. I couldn't think to run my actual oc with 26°/30° ambient t°, now its 12°/20°.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometimes moving the case, up side down could remove some nasty trapped air bubble, like it was said put it on perf mode and move the case gently.
> Check the mounting, the back plate orientation and the thermal paste footprint to find out if the issue is simply the mounting.
> Last thing check your stock mb settings, like set the vcore manually, dont let it in auto etc, maybe it is just a bad bios setting.
> If you used the mb cpu fan header to power the IAO, look for more aggressive pwm fan speed or i suggest you wisely to plug the IAO 3 pin power directly to a 12v source like the power supply.


If H100i GTX cooled processor @4.8GHz almost 1 and 1/2 year perfectly @performance mode and now can`t even cool @4.6 GHz and @lowered voltage for CPU and I clean radiator at least one time in 3-6 months what is problem. HyperX 212+ cooled same CPU @4.4 GHz @62°C under load with LinX


----------



## neurotix

Thanks to whoever recommended I install my H100i V2 even though I got my temps under control with the old H100i.

My load temps at 4.8ghz, 1.34v dropped by 15C. 71C core, 50C socket. Before it would go to 85C core, 65C socket or thereabouts.

I don't know if it's because my coolant was old in my old one, or if this new design is just that much improved. (Waterblock is round instead of square- mounting system seems more solid and seems to apply more pressure.)

I'll say though, this thing is such a PITA to install, the tubing is MUCH more rigid and unwilling to bend, the tubes are longer... getting the mounting bracket on the block over the standoffs was a serious pain- but I did it and the mounting seems good, used enough TIM, and my temps are amazing.

At my super stable 4.5ghz OC with 1.175v, I'm only seeing load temps of 55C, sometimes less. Seems comparable to custom water temps.

I painted my tubing with red plastidip too. Thanks for the advice on that. It works much better than the other paint I used on my old H100i.


----------



## Removed1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nesham*
> 
> If H100i GTX cooled processor @4.8GHz almost 1 and 1/2 year perfectly @performance mode and now can`t even cool @4.6 GHz and @lowered voltage for CPU and I clean radiator at least one time in 3-6 months what is problem. HyperX 212+ cooled same CPU @4.4 GHz @62°C under load with LinX


If you tried everything and nothing fixed the issue, then RMA.


----------



## Zaen

Hey everyone o/

Since my last post here i'm happy to report that the pump noise has gone down even in high rpm, i still think i have some air in the system but i haven't looked into how to change the water in my GTX100i.

But i'm here to ask for opinion on a common problem on these AIO water coolers, the fans. Too noisy even at medium rpm and i think they should be inaudible at low, but nah i can still ear them even when my rig is at idle. So i went out and ordered already a couple of PH-F120SP red led, http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F120SP-LED.html i have 3x140mm of the same model for my case and they move air very well and are very silent even at it's highest rpm so i figure they can do a good job pushing air through a grilled radiator, or am i wrong? That's what i want a opinion on.


----------



## xhamanx

Hi Everyone!

It's been a very long time since I built my own pc and because I planned on overclocking I purchased the Corsair H100i V2 but also because I just like the looks of it. First time with a AIO water cooler so I had a few questions.

1. Noise level on this cooler is quite noticeable and I'm not sure if that's normal. Sounds sort of like coil whine from a GPU, thought it was at first so I took out the GPU to find out it is infact coming from the water cooler.

2. The way I have it set up right now (see below) I'm a bit concerned I didn't give the tubing enough "give" does anyone have their set up like mine? similar distance covered? I had to put some force for the pump to sit square on the CPU so I'm contemplating whether I should move the radiator and fans to the left a bit.


----------



## Awesomeguy10578

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xhamanx*
> 
> Hi Everyone!
> 
> It's been a very long time since I built my own pc and because I planned on overclocking I purchased the Corsair H100i V2 but also because I just like the looks of it. First time with a AIO water cooler so I had a few questions.
> 
> 1. Noise level on this cooler is quite noticeable and I'm not sure if that's normal. Sounds sort of like coil whine from a GPU, thought it was at first so I took out the GPU to find out it is infact coming from the water cooler.
> 
> 2. The way I have it set up right now (see below) I'm a bit concerned I didn't give the tubing enough "give" does anyone have their set up like mine? similar distance covered? I had to put some force to for the pump to sit square on the CPU so I'm contemplating whether I should move the radiator and fans to the left a bit.


You can try lowering the pump speed in the corsair link software. And your tubing looks to be just fine.


----------



## neurotix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awesomeguy10578*
> 
> You can try lowering the pump speed in the corsair link software. And your tubing looks to be just fine.


Mine is actually the opposite, it makes a very annoying coil whine noise on anything other than performance mode. On performance mode, it's not really audible.


----------



## xhamanx

Okay I'll have to try both.


----------



## Pedros

Hey all,

one question, what's the best way to do a push-pull on a H115i ? I know that there aren't enough fan headers on the block so, use a fan hub for it or other way that's more correct?

Thank you all


----------



## nesham

Some update.
On first picture is same processor with H100i GTX V1 at light load in performance mode


on the other is same processor with default AMD cooler (not WRAITH) under LINX AVX load


Corsair saupport tels me that H100i GTX is fine and NOT for RMA (still cool CPU fine)?!?!?!?

With default AMD cooler is now silence in the room, with H100i GTX in performance mode was immposible to think (fans @2400+ RPM).


----------



## juniordnz

That's definitely not OK (unless your pc is inside of an oven). Keep pushing them until you get an RMA approval.


----------



## Removed1

Well i have to admit, on my H100i, the on board profiles are completely broken, i mean like you in performance mode, i got fan running 2k rpm even at 0% load.
So i never used these profiles, i have 2 custom profiles, one is custom t° curve and the other one is custom fixed rpm.
When i fold or normal use, gaming i stay under the custom curve profile i made for my cpu load. On the other hand when i oc the 290 i need to cool the water as i can, meanwhile having decent noise (airbus 647), so i fix rpm from 1600rpm to 1900rmp.
I dunno why the 2 predefined profiles are broken, maybe we should reset the IAO to reset the internal t° curve, but really dunno i get it like this.
So make your own custom t° curve profile or fix rpm and problem solved.
If the t° are really bad for you, imo they are not 55° on AMD is ok; just push for the RMA.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nesham*
> 
> Some update.
> 
> ...
> 
> Corsair saupport tels me that H100i GTX is fine and NOT for RMA (still cool CPU fine)?!?!?!?
> 
> ...


Hello there!









Fist of all, I am sorry for your issue. I wish you to resolve it soon.

If I were you, I would take a couple of photos of my system and then get HWiNFO64, customize it for your system, and run your favorite stress test. Make sure ALL the important voltages, temperatures and other important values are clearly visible in the screenshots, and mention your ambient (room) temp, as well. Then post them here, together with the photos of your system, and mention @Corsair Joseph. I am sure he will take care of you









I own a chassis, a PSU and an AIO from Corsair (see sig_rig). Not only I never had ANY issue with their amazing customer support + Service but also they have replaced my H110 just because the color of the cold plate was a bit different! I'm sure I've mentioned it in this thread, together with a picture, around a year ago. If I recall correctly.

You are the first person I "meet" who has issues with Corsair Technical Support and their (unbelievably brilliant) RMA.

Good Luck


----------



## Zorgon

I'm working in a small case (Silverstone SG13) and have only 90mm of clearance for a 120mm AIO solution. Would the H80i v2 in a single fan configuration still outperform the H75 due to the thicker radiator?


----------



## juniordnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zorgon*
> 
> I'm working in a small case (Silverstone SG13) and have only 90mm of clearance for a 120mm AIO solution. Would the H80i v2 in a single fan configuration still outperform the H75 due to the thicker radiator?


I believe it would. Not only because of the thick radiator but also for the new pump design. If you compare older h100i with the new V2 you'll notice a little improvement, even though they have the same fans and rad.


----------



## Removed1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zorgon*
> 
> I'm working in a small case (Silverstone SG13) and have only 90mm of clearance for a 120mm AIO solution. Would the H80i v2 in a single fan configuration still outperform the H75 due to the thicker radiator?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juniordnz*
> 
> I believe it would. Not only because of the thick radiator but also for the new pump design. If you compare older h100i with the new V2 you'll notice a little improvement, even though they have the same fans and rad.


Thinking if he even could go push/pull with the H80v², there are some good 25/20/15mm fans around he could use, if he is in trouble with the clearance.

Obviously they not show the same static pressure than the thicker ones, if the load is not to heavy, it could be interesting think about slim fans.









Sauce
These ones seems good


----------



## dboythagr8

How much of a difference does push/pull really make? I've had it for about 2 years now. I took my machine apart and gave it a nice cleaning with the arrival of my 1070. I changed the push/pull config to be an exhaust rather than an intake into my case, and I'm seeing pretty good temps. The setup fits cleanly into my roomy case, the Air 540. I thought it didn't actually make too big of a difference if I recall correct in the past, but as I mentioned it fits in my case just fine so I've rolled with it.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> How much of a difference does push/pull really make? I've had it for about 2 years now. I took my machine apart and gave it a nice cleaning with the arrival of my 1070. I changed the push/pull config to be an exhaust rather than an intake into my case, and I'm seeing pretty good temps. The setup fits cleanly into my roomy case, the Air 540. I thought it didn't actually make too big of a difference if I recall correct in the past, but as I mentioned it fits in my case just fine so I've rolled with it.


We did tests a few years ago in this thread. My system, Corsair 600T, Corsair H100, saw a difference of only about one or two c. Since I have stopped using push pull and now only use a single set if fans.


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> We did tests a few years ago in this thread. My system, Corsair 600T, Corsair H100, saw a difference of only about one or two c. Since I have stopped using push pull and now only use a single set if fans.


That's what I figured. I took the H100 apart to clean it and to be honest, the only reason I stayed with the PP setup is because I didn't have the appropriate screws to attach the radiator to the case when using a single set of fans. The screws I have the length for the PP setup, but when I removed a set of fans, they were too long. Didn't feel like going and getting smaller screws so I just put the H100 and the fans back in the machine as they were.


----------



## Removed1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> We did tests a few years ago in this thread. My system, Corsair 600T, Corsair H100, saw a difference of only about one or two c. Since I have stopped using push pull and now only use a single set if fans.


Maybe it still interesting when you run low profiles fans, less than 600/500rpm.
It is imo,quieter, more perform better have 400rpm push/pull fans, instead only one 700/800rpm fan.


----------



## dboythagr8

Is it advisable to use the CPU block for the radiator fans? I have all 4 of mine plugged into it but it just dawned on me that I have no way to manually control them. I need a USB connection from the CPU block to the motherboard USB header in order to use Corsair Link, correct?


----------



## x-apoc

Has anyone try to modify / customize one of the hydro series with custom tubes, add a reservoir , think it can handle it?, is it even possible? I've have H110i GT for 18 months now, just curios.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x-apoc*
> 
> Has anyone try to modify / customize one of the hydro series with custom tubes, add a reservoir , think it can handle it?, is it even possible? I've have H110i GT for 18 months now, just curios.


I know this is a giant thread, so I won't tell you to search it, but yes, this has been done and there are pictures in the thread if you can find them.


----------



## x-apoc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I know this is a giant thread, so I won't tell you to search it, but yes, this has been done and there are pictures in the thread if you can find them.


Good to know, thanks, I will search for it.


----------



## Removed1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x-apoc*
> 
> Has anyone try to modify / customize one of the hydro series with custom tubes, add a reservoir , think it can handle it?, is it even possible? I've have H110i GT for 18 months now, just curios.


Look here

This is my mod.
The only thing i can advise you is to mod with a reservoir/tank, to allow a full refill and it is easier for removing the air trapped inside the loop.

Hope it help!


----------



## tknight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x-apoc*
> 
> Has anyone try to modify / customize one of the hydro series with custom tubes, add a reservoir , think it can handle it?, is it even possible? I've have H110i GT for 18 months now, just curios.


It is not worth doing that to an AIO.

If you want a custom loop, then you should buy a proper custom loop and your money would be more wisely spent, on one of the following kits, which will give you far better cooling, than a modified AIO.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits/performance-series


----------



## Removed1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x-apoc*
> 
> Has anyone try to modify / customize one of the hydro series with custom tubes, add a reservoir , think it can handle it?, is it even possible? I've have H110i GT for 18 months now, just curios.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tknight*
> 
> It is not worth doing that to an AIO.
> 
> If you want a custom loop, then you should buy a proper custom loop and your money would be more wisely spent, on one of the following kits, which will give you far better cooling, than a modified AIO.
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits/performance-series


It is totally worth for 3 reason:

1/ It is perform really well once modded, better than expected, much better than the original one.
Please refrain to give bad advice when you didn't try to mod yourself.








I got nearly custom wc t°, it is not the quality of Corsiar IAO that is the problem, it is more *have a decent waterfowl through it without air, like in your custom loop*.

2/Refrain to speak about money wisely placed, i'm not rich and i can't afford all the fancy watercooling stuff.
I had to order a tank in China because the lowest price i found in France for a *basic* branded acrylic tank was 30e instead 8e on Aliexpress.
See my build and my oc, both *second hand* IAO cost me 100e in total, the same as one block, a third of the EK loop, for almost the same performances, cooling my cpu/gpu with 2x240mm rad.









3/This mod *AIM* to refresh your own IAO after it run a couple of years, so instead spending again $$$, you just spend 10e for a small tank, 5e in tubes, to get better performances like it was new!

Obviously what's stated there mostly aim people that like modding, if you are not into modding, just skip what i said.

The point here, is not to to compare this mod to a custom water, it is to be smart saving money, modding something that perform really well at the end.
In this case you are not modding to gain performances, you mod for recover the already good performances that decrease in time, with these IAO.

Instead of being a rich geek and throwing these IAO into the thrash after couple of years of use, seems it is the trend nowadays, reuse them into a custom loop.
Seems spending 500$ on a vga and another 500$ in a custom loop just to be fancy is the way, the branded company with their RGB god will thanks you for your money!


----------



## AKHandyman

To whoever moderates this page ... I tried to add myself to the club with the new form, but there wasn't a Corsair H115i radio button ... is someone going to change that? Here's my pic


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKHandyman*
> 
> To whoever moderates this page ... I tried to add myself to the club with the new form, but there wasn't a Corsair H115i radio button ... is someone going to change that? Here's my pic


I would also like to know this since I would like to join aswell with my new H115i.

My PC rebuild is finished and ill be picking it up at my friend's house on Friday









Here are some pictures:


----------



## ihatelolcats

do you guys know of any comparison between CLC radiators alone? this would require the reviewer to cut the tubing and use the same pump for all tests. i did some googling but didnt find anything. thanks


----------



## dboythagr8

How can I control the 4 fans on my H100? I've them plugged into the fan head, which is plugged into CPU_FAN on the motherboard. I don't use any software, so I guess it ramps up and down as needed? Do I need Corsair Link?


----------



## ihatelolcats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> How can I control the 4 fans on my H100? I've them plugged into the fan head, which is plugged into CPU_FAN on the motherboard. I don't use any software, so I guess it ramps up and down as needed? Do I need Corsair Link?


be careful with that, you could overdraw your cpu_fan header. but if it hasnt happened yet its probably fine...


----------



## Derek1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> How can I control the 4 fans on my H100? I've them plugged into the fan head, which is plugged into CPU_FAN on the motherboard. I don't use any software, so I guess it ramps up and down as needed? Do I need Corsair Link?


Where do you have the pump plugged in then?


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> be careful with that, you could overdraw your cpu_fan header. but if it hasnt happened yet its probably fine...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derek1*
> 
> Where do you have the pump plugged in then?


I'm at work at the moment but I have pulled up a picture of the components



I think I misspoke. I'm using the two splitters to connect the 4 fans to the CPU block. From there the pump sensor is plugged into CPU_FAN and of course the SATA cable plugged in for power.

Is this...not right?

I do not however, have the USB cable from the H100i to a header port on my motherboard. I'm assuming I need that to be able to run Corsair Link and change fan speed?


----------



## Derek1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> I'm at work at the moment but I have pulled up a picture of the components
> 
> 
> 
> I think I misspoke. I'm using the two splitters to connect the 4 fans to the CPU block. From there the pump sensor is plugged into CPU_FAN and of course the SATA cable plugged in for power.
> 
> Is this...not right?


The lead from the block is not just a sensor. It is the power to the pump. So yes that can be plugged into CPU_Fan.

Do not connect the splitters to that lead though.

You see on my H110i there is another lead coming from the block that connects to my splitters for 4 fans. It looks from your picture as though you only have one lead coming from the block. Is that so on the H100? If that is the case, then attach the splitters into other mother board Fan Headers. Then use a 3rd party software to control the rad fans. BUT, if there is another lead coming from the block for the fans, plug them into that and then the fans will also be controlled by CPU temp.

I am gonna look at the Corsair website to double check that. If anyone else has better or more accurate knowledge of the H100 then I defer to them.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuacK*
> 
> I would also like to know this since I would like to join aswell with my new H115i.
> 
> My PC rebuild is finished and ill be picking it up at my friend's house on Friday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pictures:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hey, congrats on your purchase and I wish you to fully enjoy it!









I see some Noctua Industrials, have you finally got the 2000 PWM?
And what have you got as front case fans?

When you will get your system at home, let's do that test, if you please









Hey!


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derek1*
> 
> The lead from the block is not just a sensor. It is the power to the pump. So yes that can be plugged into CPU_Fan.
> 
> Do not connect the splitters to that lead though.
> 
> You see on my H110i there is another lead coming from the block that connects to my splitters for 4 fans. It looks from your picture as though you only have one lead coming from the block. Is that so on the H100? If that is the case, then attach the splitters into other mother board Fan Headers. Then use a 3rd party software to control the rad fans. BUT, if there is another lead coming from the block for the fans, plug them into that and then the fans will also be controlled by CPU temp.
> 
> I am gonna look at the Corsair website to double check that. If anyone else has better or more accurate knowledge of the H100 then I defer to them.


I was going off of this http://www.corsair.com/en-us/blog/2013/february/how-to-install-the-hydro-series-h100i-cpu-cooler
Quote:


> Now that the unit is mounted, we will want to plug in power cables for both of the fans and the pump. The H100i has an integrated 4-fan hub which is where you will want to plug in your H100i fans. You will find two ports on top of the cooling unit, where you can plug in the included fan power adapter cables. Each adapter will support two fans, and by plugging the fans directly into the fan power adapter cable and into the cooling unit, you will be able to monitor and control the H100i fans through the Corsair Link V2 software.
> 
> The cooling unit itself has two cables to plug in, a SATA power connector, and a pump sensor cable. The SATA power connector should be connected directly to an available SATA power cable from your PSU, and the 3 pin (with only a single sensor wire) fan connector should be plugged into your CPU fan header on the motherboard. The sensor cable relays pump RPM information to both the BIOS and to the Corsair Link V2 software, and lets your motherboard know that you have a CPU cooler installed.


This is how I have it setup. The 4 fans are plugged into the 2 adapters, and those adapters are plugged into the 4 fan hub like corsair shows here.



Directly from their "install guide". Is this not the proper way? I was just curious if I have it setup like this if I HAD to use the Link software, or could I use some other software to control the fans.


----------



## Derek1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> I was going off of this http://www.corsair.com/en-us/blog/2013/february/how-to-install-the-hydro-series-h100i-cpu-cooler
> This is how I have it setup. The 4 fans are plugged into the 2 adapters, and those adapters are plugged into the 4 fan hub like corsair shows here.
> 
> 
> 
> Directly from their "install guide". Is this not the proper way?


Yes yes, I see now. The fan connectors are separate connection into the block so that they will adjust to cpu temps. Good.
In your original post it did sound as though you were gonna connect the fans to the Pump lead.
The fans will be powered from their own connection to the block connectors. The SATA power cable into the block and then that thin sensor wire (used to be the power for the pump too on the H60 I used to have) to the CPU_Fan
So follow that guide.


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hey, congrats on your purchase and I wish you to fully enjoy it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see some Noctua Industrials, have you finally got the 2000 PWM?
> And what have you got as front case fans?
> 
> When you will get your system at home, let's do that test, if you please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey!


Hey thanks man.

Yes I indeed swapped the stock fans for some Noctua NF-A14 IndustrialPPC 2000 PWM fans.
The Case fans are 3 Corsair ML120 Pro led fans and I have one Corsair ML140 Pro Red led fan in the rear as exhaust.

Please help me to remind what kind of test you wanted to do again?

Im always up for any testing, within my capabilities








I will be doing some gaming and some tests I wanna do personally for myself first (maybe its also usefull for you and others aswell).

I haven't actually seen or heard my system in person after it was fully finished yet, but my friend ran a quick 3DMark Timespy test and told me that the system remained pretty much inaudible and the CPU stayed under 52C when clocked at 4.6GHz so this gets my excited n terms of cooling performance vs noise ratio for gaming.

Dont remember exactly what my bios settings were before I brought the system to his house but I think casefans I set to silent. Im curious to see how audible it will be at higher RPM's









Will be doing alot of testing starting from friday night as soon as I get home, ill definetly let you and others know my findings









I honestly can't wait









Cheers:thumb:


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuacK*
> 
> Hey thanks man.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I indeed swapped the stock fans for some Noctua NF-A14 IndustrialPPC 2000 PWM fans.
> The Case fans are 3 Corsair ML120 Pro led fans and I have one Corsair ML140 Pro Red led fan in the rear as exhaust.
> 
> 
> 
> *Please help me to remind what kind of test you wanted to do again?*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Im always up for any testing, within my capabilities
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be doing some gaming and some tests I wanna do personally for myself first (maybe its also usefull for you and others aswell).
> 
> I haven't actually seen or heard my system in person after it was fully finished yet, but my friend ran a quick 3DMark Timespy test and told me that the system remained pretty much inaudible and the CPU stayed under 52C when clocked at 4.6GHz so this gets my excited n terms of cooling performance vs noise ratio for gaming.
> 
> Dont remember exactly what my bios settings were before I brought the system to his house but I think casefans I set to silent. Im curious to see how audible it will be at higher RPM's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be doing alot of testing starting from friday night as soon as I get home, ill definetly let you and others know my findings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I honestly can't wait
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers:thumb:


Okay, great!

Here's what I have in mind.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



You set in your BIOS the values you feel comfortable with, for the following:

CPU Input voltage
VCore
Cache voltage
And of course, the multipliers for Core and Cache clocks.

You share this info with me, so that I will set the exact same values.

You then get the *x264 Stability Test v2.06* and the latest version of HWiNFO64. Customize HWiNFO64 = hide any arbitrary / erratic values and make sure all the voltages and especially the temperatures are clearly visible.
You run two loops, preferably with all your fans + pump at full speed, and post your results, stating your ambient (room) temperature, as well.

I run the same test and post my results.



Is that OK with you?


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Okay, great!
> 
> Here's what I have in mind.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> You set in your BIOS the values you feel comfortable with, for the following:
> CPU Input voltage
> VCore
> Cache voltage
> And of course, the multipliers for Core and Cache clocks.
> 
> You share this info with me.
> 
> You then get the *x264 Stability Test v2.06* and the latest version of HWiNFO64. Customize HWiNFO64 = hide any arbitrary / erratic values and make sure all the voltages and especially the temperatures are clearly visible.
> You run two loops and post your results, stating your ambient (room) temperature, as well.
> 
> I run the same test and post my results.
> 
> 
> Is that OK with you?


Thar sounds fine by me. I will have to get a thermometer to know my ambient temp, but thats not a problem. I wanted to get one for a while anyway.

One thing I should say first... I dont have alot of positive experience with x264 Stability Test.
I dont think I have ever succesfully completed even 1 loop of x264 stability Test. I dont remember at what clock speed I tried though, as it has been a while since I used any stresstest lol.

It will be interesting to see... I have been AIDA64 Extreme 8+ hours testing CPU, FPU and Cache, and game stable for months now at 4.6GHz, so I will give x264 a go again and see how it works out









If x264 still fails im willing to pump more volts for stresstesting purposes until I do succeed, aslong as my temps allow it...

But I just wanna say that with the settings I use right now I haven't had any BSOD in months at 4.6GHz.

Should we PM about all this aswell or just keep it public?


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuacK*
> 
> Thar sounds fine by me. I will have to get a thermometer to know my ambient temp, but thats not a problem. I wanted to get one for a while anyway.
> 
> One thing I should say first... I dont have alot of positive experience with x264 Stability Test.
> I dont think I have ever succesfully completed even 1 loop of x264 stability Test. I dont remember at what clock speed I tried though, as it has been a while since I used any stresstest lol.
> 
> It will be interesting to see... I have been AIDA64 Extreme 8+ hours testing CPU, FPU and Cache, and game stable for months now at 4.6GHz, so I will give x264 a go again and see how it works out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If x264 still fails im willing to pump more volts for stresstesting purposes until I do succeed, aslong as my temps allow it...
> 
> But I just wanna say that with the settings I use right now I haven't had any BSOD in months at 4.6GHz.
> 
> Should we PM about all this aswell or just keep it public?


Let's keep this public for other users to see and eventually comment their thoughts.









I suggest you to purchase a wall clock with temperature, date, month etc.

Some people would say that the intake air temperature of your chassis is what matters, and I agree, but let's keep this simple.

When it comes to this testing, do not worry at all about the stress test. We are not testing for stability here. So you can downclock to 4.5 GHz if your OC settings will fail at 4.6 GHz. This it not stress testing for stability. I chose the x264 because my personal and subjective opinion is that it simulates the eveyrday usage of a fairly busy system. It does not go to Prime95, AIDA FPU or OCCT Large sets "extremes". But I can run any other test. So, do not worry. Just set in your BIOS the VCore, CPU Input V and Cache voltage, you are comfortable with. And I will set the same. Oh, and set these in Override Mode = fixed, plus set your LLC to the max your motherboard allows.

And post a picture of your computer at the position placed when running the test.

I will do the same.

Currently, I am using an open-air rig with my Noctua NH-D15S, with one NF-A15. "Apples and Oranges" comparison a lot (?) might say / think... Nevermind! Let's do this









Finally, the factory thermal compound Corsair is using, is fine I believe! That is what I recall from my H110 when I received it like a year ago. I trust you will be using it?

When I will install my components back in my Air 540, after a few months, I will compare my then ΔΤ with yours.

Thank you.


----------



## AKHandyman

No one's answered this post as to the Corsair Hydro H115i being included in the club ...


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Let's keep this public for other users to see and eventually comment their thoughts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest you to purchase a wall clock with temperature, date, month etc.
> 
> Some people would say that the intake air temperature of your chassis is what matters, and I agree, but let's keep this simple.
> 
> When it comes to this testing, do not worry at all about the stress test. We are not testing for stability here. So you can downclock to 4.5 GHz if your OC settings will fail at 4.6 GHz. This it not stress testing for stability. I chose the x264 because my personal and subjective opinion is that it simulates the eveyrday usage of a fairly busy system. It does not go to Prime95, AIDA FPU or OCCT Large sets "extremes". But I can run any other test. So, do not worry. Just set in your BIOS the VCore, CPU Input V and Cache voltage, you are comfortable with. And I will set the same. Oh, and set these in Override Mode = fixed, plus set your LLC to the max your motherboard allows.
> 
> And post a picture of your computer at the position placed when running the test.
> 
> I will do the same.
> 
> Currently, I am using an open-air rig with my Noctua NH-D15S, with one NF-A15. "Apples and Oranges" comparison a lot (?) might say / think... Nevermind! Let's do this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, the factory thermal compound Corsair is using, is fine I believe! That is what I recall from my H110 when I received it like a year ago. I trust you will be using it?
> 
> When I will install my components back in my Air 540, after a few months, I will compare my then ΔΤ with yours.
> 
> Thank you.


Okay I can agree on most things.

But sadly I have to tell you that the factory thermal compound on my H115i has already been replaced for Noctua NT-H1, which was adviced to me by someone else.

Im sorry about this









Could you explain further what exactly you want to achieve if we would do this testing method? I dont fully understand yet I think


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuacK*
> 
> Okay I can agree on most things.
> 
> But sadly I have to tell you that the factory thermal compound on my H115i has already been replaced for Noctua NT-H1, which was adviced to me by someone else.
> 
> Im sorry about this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could you explain further what exactly you want to achieve if we would do this testing method? I dont fully understand yet I think


No problem about Corsair's factory thermal paste, even though I think you should have tried it. I got very pleasantly surprised by its performance. I'm currently using Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut and I have NT-H1, as well.

I do not want to achieve something specific








I am just curious. Imagine this like I could come to your house and observe your system under stress testing, now I cannot, so I asked this. I'd like to see how your AIO performs under regular conditions and not in some reviewer's test bench. We have the same CPU, which is extremely important, both non-delidded, and like that










PS: Gonna disconnect now because Windows 10 Insider Preview Build 15025 has just been announced and I'll dedicate my line to download + install it.

Thank you.


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> No problem about Corsair's factory thermal paste, even though I think you should have tried it. I got very pleasantly surprised by its performance. I'm currently using Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut and I have NT-H1, as well.
> 
> I do not want to achieve something specific
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am just curious. Imagine this like I could come to your house and observe your system under stress testing, now I cannot, so I asked this. I'd like to see how your AIO performs under regular conditions and not in some reviewer's test bench. We have the same CPU, which is extremely important, both non-delidded, and like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: Gonna disconnect now because Windows 10 Insider Preview Build 15025 has just been announced and I'll dedicate my line to download + install it.
> 
> Thank you.[/quote
> 
> Man now I feel bad for having to dissapoint you again because...
> 
> I have to tell you my CPU has been delidded lol.
> 
> But I get what you mean now.
> Maybe direct comparison for you with my system is pretty much compromised now,
> 
> But nevertheless I will still try to do the tests you have asked me to do, maybe they are less comparable as you hoped but maybe it could still be usefull to you somehow.
> 
> It won't take alot of time anyway so its fine for me to do this, but give me some time to get my system up and running at home, buy a thermometer and have some gaming fun first before diving into testing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good night.
> 
> Oh and P.S like the other guy before me asked.... do you happen to know if the H115i could be added to the form for joining this group?
> 
> Thanks.


----------



## LostParticle

@QuacK, if your CPU is delidded then there can be no comparison between it and my non-delidded CPU. Too bad, perhaps I should have asked before all this.

You can always post some results though, and I am sure you would like to test your new system, as well. Remember to set up HWiNFO64 properly, so that ALL the important values will be clearly visible.

Regarding the addition of your AIO to the owner's list, I do not know. My personal opinion is that OCN should seek new people to maintain threads that continue to be active, if the thread starter has abandoned them.


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> @QuacK, if your CPU is delidded then there can be no comparison between it and my non-delidded CPU. Too bad, perhaps I should have asked before all this.
> 
> You can always post some results though, and I am sure you would like to test your new system, as well. Remember to set up HWiNFO64 properly, so that ALL the important values will be clearly visible.
> 
> Regarding the addition of your AIO to the owner's list, I do not know. My personal opinion is that OCN should seek new people to maintain threads that continue to be active, if the thread starter has abandoned them.


Too bad we can't compare.

I'll still definitely run some tests and post my findings here and / or in the Intel Devils Canyon thread.

Personally for me it would mostly be very interesting to see how much cooling performance I sacrificed for less noise by swapping the stock fans for noctua's.

Anyhow I wish you the best of luck with your system aswell and we'll probably talk again soon here or in the other thread once I've completed some tests.

About joining the club I think you are right. Would be cool if other people could pick up and maintain an abandoned thread.

But whether I'm a member of this group or not.. I can still post my findings and help other people with questions about the corsair hydro series, once I'm more experienced with my new water-cooler myself









Cheers mate.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuacK*
> 
> Too bad we can't compare.
> 
> I'll still definitely run some tests and post my findings here and / or in the Intel Devils Canyon thread.
> 
> Personally for me it would mostly be very interesting to see how much cooling performance I sacrificed for less noise by swapping the stock fans for noctua's.
> 
> Anyhow I wish you the best of luck with your system aswell and we'll probably talk again soon here or in the other thread once I've completed some tests.
> 
> About joining the club I think you are right. Would be cool if other people could pick up and maintain an abandoned thread.
> 
> But whether I'm a member of this group or not.. I can still post my findings and help other people with questions about the corsair hydro series, once I'm more experienced with my new water-cooler myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers mate.


Okay man, thanks a lot, good luck to you, too!


----------



## eXteR

Hi guys,

i replaced the stock fans on my H110GT with 2 ML140 (the twin pack without leds, wich i bought on amazon for 33€).

I'm extremely pleased with the change.

The fans move a little more air through the rad, but a lot more silent.

My custom fan profile is targeting silence, with max 1200rpm when liquid temp reach 34º, on idle stay at 500rpm.

I can only recommend to use this ML140. Extremely silent and well looking.

General temps improved a little bit, 1º on CPU and 2º on GPU, better air circulation i suppose.


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXteR*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> i replaced the stock fans on my H110GT with 2 ML140 (the twin pack without leds, wich i bought on amazon for 33€).
> 
> I'm extremely pleased with the change.
> 
> The fans move a little more air through the rad, but a lot more silent.
> 
> My custom fan profile is targeting silence, with max 1200rpm when liquid temp reach 34º, on idle stay at 500rpm.
> 
> I can only recommend to use this ML140. Extremely silent and well looking.
> 
> General temps improved a little bit, 1º on CPU and 2º on GPU, better air circulation i suppose.


Interesting findings.

I thought about changing the stock fans of my H115i with Corsair ML140 fans,
but in the end I chose for Noctua NF-A14 IndustrialPPC 2000 PWM fans.

I will post some test results later on.

Thanks for sharing


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> How can I control the 4 fans on my H100? I've them plugged into the fan head, which is plugged into CPU_FAN on the motherboard. I don't use any software, so I guess it ramps up and down as needed? Do I need Corsair Link?


If they are pwm, get a pwm splitter. I would not recommend using more than two fans on a fan header unless your pwm splitter has a molex power connector for obtaining power direct from your PSU. If it does, then four fans on the CPU fan header should be no problem.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKHandyman*
> 
> No one's answered this post as to the Corsair Hydro H115i being included in the club ...


The original thread creator is long gone. There was a fellow doing it for a while but I'm not sure he's bstill around or how often he checks in here. If I was you, I would just grab the signature and call myself a member...


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> The original thread creator is long gone. There was a fellow doing it for a while but I'm not sure he's bstill around or how often he checks in here. If I was you, I would just grab the signature and call myself a member...


Was thinking of doing that.

I'll wait for a bit first but if it won't be updated I'll follow your suggestion.


----------



## ihatelolcats

years ago i cut the power cord to my h100, and i havent used it in a while. could anyone tell me which wire is 12v and which is ground?


----------



## PerfectTekniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> The original thread creator is long gone. There was a fellow doing it for a while but I'm not sure he's bstill around or how often he checks in here. If I was you, I would just grab the signature and call myself a member...


He was on 11 minutes ago...


----------



## jameyscott

Sorry guys been having life stuff going on for I don't even know how long. Latest issues are blown engine in my wife and I's only vehicle and probable appendicitis. I do plan on updating this thread as well as the other one's I have once life stops kicking me in the pants.


----------



## PerfectTekniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Sorry guys been having life stuff going on for I don't even know how long. Latest issues are blown engine in my wife and I's only vehicle and probable appendicitis. I do plan on updating this thread as well as the other one's I have once life stops kicking me in the pants.


Hope it all turns around for you and the family.


----------



## QuacK

@LostParticle

https://be.pcpartpicker.com/b/8qsZxr

Here i've just finished uploading and updating my build on pcpartpicker.

Figured I might aswell post the link rather than uploading alot of pictures on this thread.

On pcpartpicker I was able to order my pictures so you can sort of slowly see it become to how its standing next to me on my desk now


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuacK*
> 
> @LostParticle
> 
> https://be.pcpartpicker.com/b/8qsZxr
> 
> Here i've just finished uploading and updating my build on pcpartpicker.
> 
> Figured I might aswell post the link rather than uploading alot of pictures on this thread.
> 
> On pcpartpicker I was able to order my pictures so you can sort of slowly see it become to how its standing next to me on my desk now


Hey, I saw the pictures, and most importantly, I've read your comment. Your system looks good now. According to my personal, and subjective, opinion it was looking good before, too. Since it pleases you more now, though, that is all that matters.







Oh! And I fully acknowledge the fact that you can now use your first PCI-e slot!

A couple of comments from my side. Please, know that I own the simple Corsair H110. I have never used Corsair Link. So, my comments / questions, from what I have read from your post there, are:

1) Do you really (really) need Corsair Link installed and running in your system, all the time? Does this suit you, do you really like it this way? I have never used Link. If I were you, though, I would install it once, set up whatever I would wish to set up, and then completely remove it (using Revo Uninstaller Pro, for example).

2) On my humble H110, I have never connected its pump to the CPU opt fan header. My motherboard, the ASRock Z97 OC Formula, provides a 3-pin fan header which constantly provides 12V, and I always connect the pump there. My pump always runs at full speed, and it is always inaudible. It does not make any noise. IF your pump is inaudible, as well, I strongly suggest you to run it full speed, constantly. On my ASUS Hero mobo, I just connect it to a chassis fan header and set it at full speed, in the BIOS.

3) Why do you have to use Corsair Link to set a custom fan curve for your AIO's fans? Can you not do it in the BIOS? I own the Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SOC FORCE, too. Unfortunately, I hate this motherboard so it rests in my attic for many-many months now, I do not even remember when it was the last time I used it. I recall though that Gigabyte has a peculiar system for setting custom fan curves... In any case, I personally would still prefer that peculiarity instead of Link.

I sincerely hope that you will not rely on Corsair Link to monitor your system. HWiNFO64, appropriately customized and constantly run, is a much better, if not the only, way to monitor a system reliably. (unless you'd like to turn your room into a lab full of DMMs).

Anyway, I hope you won't misunderstand my opinions, I wish you to enjoy your system, and...when and IF you'll feel like it, post the results of your favorite stress test + HWiNFO64 with all the critical values clearly visible.

Nice System, Good Luck!


----------



## QuacK

Hey

At first, I was using Corsair Link to setup a custom fan curve, but the sofvtware still seems to be a little buggy in some ways.
For instance the fan profile wouold sometimes by itself change for some reason.
So I went searching the internet and eventually found a post from a guy that is very active on the Corsair forums for people having problems with corsair link.

He has made his own software called System information viewer, and it claimed to be able to connect with corsair link and let you setup System information viewer to take over control from the Corsair link software anbd still have all the options and control that you have in corsair link.

So at first I was sceptical about this, but I gave it a try and I have to say it works really well.

I used this guide to be able to control Corsair Link hardware through SIV:

http://sivtxt.zz.vc/Using%20SIV%20to%20Control%20Corsair%20Link%20Hardware.pdf

With System information viewer I can now control my pump, radiator fans and even the corsair logo.
Also the neat little extra thing of this software is that if you would want, you can set a custom profile by setting specific RPM targets to specific temperatures, which works more user friendly and precisely than setting up a custom profile through corsair link.

At the moment, I am running this software and dont use corsair link anymore.
Right now I run my radiator fans at a fixed speed at 55% using system information viewer.
This percentage I have found is the maximum percentage that the fans noise is acceptable at for me. The pump is set to run at 100% all the time.
With this setup, the radiator fans stay at the acceptable noise level for me at all times, and keeps my CPU cool under gaming sessions.
The most audible fan in my system when gaming now actually are my GPU fan's, which I run a custom fan profile for through MSI afterburner.

Here is a screenshot I took after playing some games:



And here is a screenshot taken under similar conditions with same GPU and CPU settings, a few weeks ago when I still used my Noctua NH-D15 aircooler:



The only thing I don't know exactly is my ambient temperature though.

But as you can see if you compare the screenshots is that I achieve similar CPU temperatures, at more or less the same noise level I can tell you.

I could get it to cool my CPU better by setting a higher fan percentage or RPM, but for now I am fine with this setup.
I will test and try different custom fan speeds at custom temperature levels later.

What does stand out though is how my GPU runs alot cooler with my updated build.
I think this is mostly because of the better casefans that provide more air and better pressure to the GPU area.

So to conclude these findings and to answer some of your questions....

Do you really need corsair link? No I dont think so. While the software has gotten improved, it still feels a little buggy at times.
System information viewer however I do keep running at all times now and I have found no negative effects to this so far.

I will consider your suggestion of moving the pump to a system fan header to run it at full speed from the bios.
But honestly I like it setup as I have now.

The only thing I miss is to be able to monitor the RPM of the second radiator fan, but the fan is running though.

Maybe if I will connect the fans to either the PWM hub or system fan headers, I can get it to monitor both radiator fan speeds.

Gigabyte 's fan customization in the BIOS is very crappy yes.
I have my casefans controlled by the BIOS at 1.0 Value of PWM / Celcius.

I dont know exactly how this works, but I configured it this way by monitoring the RPM speeds and the noise level at different settings.

Hope im not forgetting anything that you wanted to know.

If so, let me know


----------



## LostParticle

@QuacK

Hey, it's cool, whatever suits you - whatever makes you feel good!









Personally, I like to keep my system as clean as possible, so I would try to decipher Gigabyte's crappy fan control settings in the BIOS, and set up all my system's fan curves, there. Actually, I have done this LONG time ago, when I was still using it. Now I do not recall how it is done.

So, I would not use CIV, I would not use Corsair Link except perhaps for one single time to set up my AIO - and then completely remove it. I am sure you are aware of the fact that running multiple monitoring utilities, like HWiNFO, CIV and others like LINK, at the same time, can result in monitoring conflicts and even in system instability (when you run multiple of those simultaneously).

This is your system, however, and you run/use it the way it pleases you, and hey, IF a problem appears you can always resolve it right away!











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



I'd like to ask you one last thing, could you please remove the quote of my post from your post? I have edited it, while you were responding, due to typos + I've added some things. Just remove it if it's not a big deal for you.



Thank you.


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> @QuacK
> 
> Hey, it's cool, whatever suits you - whatever makes you feel good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally, I like to keep my system as clean as possible, so I would try to decipher Gigabyte's crappy fan control settings in the BIOS, and set up all my system's fan curves, there. Actually, I have done this LONG time ago, when I was still using it. Now I do not recall how it is done.
> 
> So, I would not use CIV, I would not use Corsair Link except perhaps for one single time to set up my AIO - and then completely remove it. I am sure you are aware of the fact that running multiple monitoring utilities, like HWiNFO, CIV and others like LINK, at the same time, can result in monitoring conflicts and even in system instability (when you run multiple of those simultaneously).
> 
> This is your system, however, and you run/use it the way it pleases you, and hey, IF a problem appears you can always resolve it right away!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like to ask you one last thing, could you please remove the quote of my post from your post? I have edited it, while you were responding, due to typos + I've added some things. Just remove it if it's not a big deal for you.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you.


Do you mean like so i edited my previous post now?

I will give your suggestions a try later on.
Im always running HWiinfo at windows startup, I run SIV at startup aswel and found no issues so far.

But im aware that running multiple monitoring softwares at the same time can cause issues.

Just to see what happens if I remove Corsair link and SIV after I setup my AIO I could remove it and see if the AIO still behaves the same then.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuacK*
> 
> Do you mean like so i edited my previous post now?


Yes, thank you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuacK*
> 
> I will give your suggestions a try later on.
> Im always running HWiinfo at windows startup, I run SIV at startup aswel and found no issues so far.
> But im aware that running multiple monitoring softwares at the same time can cause issues.


Yes, I do the same with HWiNFO. The issues might appear randomly, after a week or a few months.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuacK*
> 
> Just to see what happens if I remove Corsair link and SIV after I setup my AIO I could remove it and see if the AIO still behaves the same then.


Yeah, thanks, this interests me as well: if after removing LINK the AIO keeps all of its settings.

I have run two tests. I am leaving them here, even though my chip is not delidded. Hope they will help










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



In both OC profiles:

Open-air rig.
Room temperature = 19 C
Thermal compound: Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Noctua NH-D15S with one NF-A15
Vcore and Cache voltage = Adaptive in the BIOS

My 4.7 GHz oc profile. Adaptive VCore = 1.2 V, in the BIOS


My Per_Core oc profile (x50 x50 x49 x48): Adaptive VCore = 1.4 V, in the BIOS


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Yes, thank you.
> Yes, I do the same with HWiNFO. The issues might appear randomly, after a week or a few months.
> Yeah, thanks, this interests me as well: if after removing LINK the AIO keeps all of its settings.
> 
> I have run two tests. I am leaving them here, even though my chip is not delidded. Hope they will help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> In both OC profiles:
> 
> Open-air rig.
> Room temperature = 19 C
> Thermal compound: Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
> Noctua NH-D15S with one NF-A15
> Vcore and Cache voltage = Adaptive in the BIOS
> 
> My 4.7 GHz oc profile. Adaptive VCore = 1.2 V, in the BIOS
> 
> 
> My Per_Core oc profile (x50 x50 x49 x48): Adaptive VCore = 1.4 V, in the BIOS


I've just uninstalled Corsair Link + its service and configured SIV so it won't start up with Windows.

Seems like everything is still working as I configured. If I will also uninstall SIV im not sure what will happen.

But atkleast it seems to be working to just configure it once and dont let it run all the time.

I will give my 4.6GHz a run on x264 stability test and see if I can complete a couple runs now


----------



## s1rrah

Quick question for the Corsair AIO users ...

I have a H115i and have never used any of the Corsair control software. I simply plugged the H115i into the power header and everything seems to be working fine.

But I'm curious if the pump is running at 100%, even though I've never "set" anything via software. Does the pump run at 100% by default?

thanks for any info...
joel


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s1rrah*
> 
> Quick question for the Corsair AIO users ...
> 
> I have a H115i and have never used any of the Corsair control software. I simply plugged the H115i into the power header and everything seems to be working fine.
> 
> But I'm curious if the pump is running at 100%, even though I've never "set" anything via software. Does the pump run at 100% by default?
> 
> thanks for any info...
> joel


Hey,

Do you use HWinfo64 to monitor your system? If so could you post a screenshot of it.
If not, i'd recommend you download and install it.

The pump is set on quiet by default.
You need Corsair Link (latest version V4.3 I believe) to configure it.
Also I thnik it will only work if you have also plugged the corsair link usb cable that came with the AIO to a usb on your mobo?


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuacK*
> 
> I've just uninstalled Corsair Link + its service and configured SIV so it won't start up with Windows.
> 
> Seems like everything is still working as I configured. If I will also uninstall SIV im not sure what will happen.
> 
> But atkleast it seems to be working to just configure it once and dont let it run all the time.
> 
> *I will give my 4.6GHz a run on x264 stability test and see if I can complete a couple runs now*


Looking forward to your results!!

By the way...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



This is my system, this period








_(My three SSDs are on my desk_)


----------



## s1rrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuacK*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> Do you use HWinfo64 to monitor your system? If so could you post a screenshot of it.
> If not, i'd recommend you download and install it.
> 
> The pump is set on quiet by default.
> You need Corsair Link (latest version V4.3 I believe) to configure it.
> Also I thnik it will only work if you have also plugged the corsair link usb cable that came with the AIO to a usb on your mobo?


Thanks ... I didn't know this. I just installed the USB cable and Corsair link and indeed, the pump was running at the "balanced" setting. I switched it to Performance as I want the pump running fast as possible and then saved things as my "default" which writes the settings to the H115i's firmware ...

Thanks again! Nice to know I'm getting maximum pump speed now ...


----------



## dboythagr8

What type of USB cable is it that's needed? I lost mine some time ago. Was thinking of picking one up from somewhere like Frys.


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Looking forward to your results!!
> 
> By the way...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This is my system, this period
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _(My three SSDs are on my desk_)


Do you see any significant differences in temperatures between this and your closed setup?

I was to lazy to switch to 4.6GHz so I just gave 4.8GHz a run and im surprised it finished









Its with my fan profile that I use for gaming so the Noctua fans stayed around 1000-1100 rpm.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> And here again same test with all fans at full speed.
> Prettmy much made no difference for temperatures


----------



## s1rrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> What type of USB cable is it that's needed? I lost mine some time ago. Was thinking of picking one up from somewhere like Frys.


It's a special cable that has one end which is a standard USB header connector that goes to an available motherboard USB header ... and the other end looks like it's made especially to plug into the pump assembly. You'll most likely have to order one from Corsair ...

Best,
Joel


----------



## LostParticle

@QuacK

1) I cannot open your second screenshot - where you test with all fans at full speed - because it is inside a quote. Please, repost it or edit your post and remove the quote

2) When I use my Air 540, I am always using my Corsair H110. I never used my Noctua inside my chassis. Furthermore, I run open-air usually during winter time and set up my chassis when the summer begins. Because the ambient temperatures here then rise up to 30 - 32C, and it is then when I need "the most cooling I can afford". In seeing significant difference between my open-air rig and my chassis.... well... they run under different circumstances...so, it suffice to say that they are equally decent but...my open-air rig is SO much simpler in cleaning!!

3) From the screenshot I was able to see, I observe that:

- Your Core Max = 78 C with CPU Input voltage = ~1.820V and Vcore = ~1.330V, on a delidded CPU, using Corsair H115i, pump at full speed + 2 x Noctua Industrial 2000 pwm. I do not know your ambient (room) temperature but... isn't this a bit high for a delidded CPU? I know your AIO fans were running at around 1100 rpm but still...

*My tests of today.*


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> @QuacK
> 
> 1) I cannot open your second screenshot - where you test with all fans at full speed - because it is inside a quote. Please, repost it or edit your post and remove the quote
> 
> 2) When I use my Air 540, I am always using my Corsair H110. I never used my Noctua inside my chassis. Furthermore, I run open-air usually during winter time and set up my chassis when the summer begins. Because the ambient temperatures here then rise up to 30 - 32C, and it is then when I need "the most cooling I can afford". In seeing significant difference between my open-air rig and my chassis.... well... they run under different circumstances...so, it suffice to say that they are equally decent but...my open-air rig is SO much simpler in cleaning!!
> 
> 3) From the screenshot I was able to see, I observe that:
> 
> - Your Core Max = 78 C with CPU Input voltage = ~1.820V and Vcore = ~1.330V, on a delidded CPU, using Corsair H115i, pump at full speed + 2 x Noctua Industrial 2000 pwm. I do not know your ambient (room) temperature but... isn't this a bit high for a delidded CPU? I know your AIO fans were running at around 1100 rpm but still...


Here's the 2nd screenshot:



It seems a little high to me too.
My PC is on top of my desk in my bedroom, in our living room the temperature is usually set to 19,5 - 21C.

It does feel pretty warm sometimes in my room lol.

i will order a thermometer this week. Any suggestions for a good and accurate one?


----------



## LostParticle

Yes, it is high, @QuacK, especially for a delidded i7-4790K. Two suggestions:

1) Feed you AIO with plenty of cool, fresh, air = increase the speed of your intake fans
2) Recheck your delidd.

There are various thermometers. On my wall *I have this* and on my desk *I have this*. This is what I use. For intake air temperature I use a sensor from my Aquaero 5 LT, when I mount my chassis. One in the front chamber, one in the rear chamber. For a few months now, when using my chassis, I mount my H110 as front intake, and I use NO other fans, no chassis fans, in my system. I have great results even in the summertime (I've posted stress test screenshots in here, somewhere).


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Yes, it is high, @QuacK, especially for a delidded i7-4790K. Two suggestions:
> 
> 1) Feed you AIO with plenty of cool, fresh, air = increase the speed of your intake fans
> 2) Recheck your delidd.
> 
> There are various thermometers. On my wall *I have this* and on my desk *I have this*. This is what I use. For intake air temperature I use a sensor from my Aquaero 5 LT, when I mount my chassis. One in the front chamber, one in the rear chamber. For a few months now, when using my chassis, I mount my H110 as front intake, and I use NO other fans, no chassis fans, in my system. I have great results even in the summertime (I've posted stress test screenshots in here, somewhere).


I think the ambient temperature in my room is usually quite a bit higher than 21C.

Recheck the delid.... I wish it could be done as easy as you say it








Its a pretty good chip I have here and it can run 5GHz (on just gamng) so its a special one to me and I would hate it if we'd ruin it because of being over concerned









I have read about people saying that using radiator fans as intake can improve temperatures significantly because of the cool air coming in and flow through the radiator.

The thing is..
If I would be able to uninstall my components and do everything myself,
I would try every possible configuration for the fans and radiator.
I would also probably be overly concerned and do rechecking things lots of times to try get better temperatures....
But I have no idea about installing components and I don't really have the space and work room for it either.

I would have to ask my friend to do this, and probably bring my PC to his house AGAIN lol.

Also, I don't really run alot of stresstests anymore because I know what is stable for my use and what not.

ill just start by finding out my ambient temperature and go from there


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuacK*
> 
> I think the ambient temperature in my room is usually quite a bit higher than 21C.
> 
> Recheck the delid.... I wish it could be done as easy as you say it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a pretty good chip I have here and it can run 5GHz (on just gamng) so its a special one to me and I would hate it if we'd ruin it because of being over concerned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have read about people saying that using radiator fans as intake can improve temperatures significantly because of the cool air coming in and flow through the radiator.
> 
> The thing is..
> If I would be able to uninstall my components and do everything myself,
> I would try every possible configuration for the fans and radiator.
> I would also probably be overly concerned and do rechecking things lots of times to try get better temperatures....
> But I have no idea about installing components and I don't really have the space and work room for it either.
> 
> I would have to ask my friend to do this, and probably bring my PC to his house AGAIN lol.
> 
> Also, I don't really run alot of stresstests anymore because I know what is stable for my use and what not.
> 
> ill just start by finding out my ambient temperature and go from there


I understand you.

An AIO as intake, and with no other chassis fans (!), is a not a set up for any chassis. In the Air 540 it works because there is nothing in front of the intake fans, plus my non-delidded i7-4790K permanently dissipates a flux of lukewarm stream of air (even at 1.4V vcore!), plus I do not have any HDDs inside it, only SSDs, plus my GPU is a rather cool (and ancient) model, plus I am not a gamer
















Just feed yours with more air and...yes, re-check your delidd.

It is... imperative to learn how to mount your desktop.

Anyway, best of luck in everything!


----------



## LostParticle

Hey guys, pardon me for the off-topic but...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



*Has anyone seen these?*

They look nice to me!

?


----------



## deadremix

Just a quick question, im about to build a new rig with corsair h100i v2, now do i have to install and run corsair link the first time to get the pump and fans to correctly run? after that can i uninstall it and it will keep the settings?


----------



## s1rrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deadremix*
> 
> Just a quick question, im about to build a new rig with corsair h100i v2, now do i have to install and run corsair link the first time to get the pump and fans to correctly run? after that can i uninstall it and it will keep the settings?


Yes ... as I discovered today (at least for my H115i) ... the default pump speed seems to be the "balanced" option because after I selected "Performance" in the Corsair Link software, my pump speed increased to 3000rpm. Once you have your settings dialed in, chose "Options" / "Devices" ... find your AIO cooler in the list and click the "use current settings as default" link/button. This will save your settings to the hardware's onboard firmware so that you won't need to use the Corsair Link software any more and in fact could simply uninstall the software completely and your settings should stay.

On another note ...

I just got a new backplate and some mounting hardware ... I'm going to do a proper high pressure "bolt through" mount on the H115i to see if it will perform any better with much higher mounting pressure. I'll be posting a dedicated thread once I get it done showing hardware used and what not.

This is the bolt through kit I got:



...

I mainly wanted the backplate but ended up coming with springs and screws too ...

I did the same thing to my old H100 and it worked better with the high pressure mount ...

More later...


----------



## deadremix

Thanks for the info S1rrah!


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuacK*
> 
> I think the ambient temperature in my room is usually quite a bit higher than 21C.
> 
> Recheck the delid.... I wish it could be done as easy as you say it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a pretty good chip I have here and it can run 5GHz (on just gamng) so its a special one to me and I would hate it if we'd ruin it because of being over concerned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have read about people saying that using radiator fans as intake can improve temperatures significantly because of the cool air coming in and flow through the radiator.
> 
> The thing is..
> If I would be able to uninstall my components and do everything myself,
> I would try every possible configuration for the fans and radiator.
> I would also probably be overly concerned and do rechecking things lots of times to try get better temperatures....
> But I have no idea about installing components and I don't really have the space and work room for it either.
> 
> I would have to ask my friend to do this, and probably bring my PC to his house AGAIN lol.
> 
> Also, I don't really run alot of stresstests anymore because I know what is stable for my use and what not.
> 
> ill just start by finding out my ambient temperature and go from there


Changing your radiator fans to intake can have less of an effect than you may think, depending on your internal components and case.
I tried it on an H100 in a Corsair 600T case and the grand result was 3c. My video cards at the time were reference HD6970 cards, so their heat exhaust went out the back of the case.
If your video card exhausts inside your case, you may have better luck using your radiator fans as intake since you could currently be exhausting your hot video card exhaust out your radiator..


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Changing your radiator fans to intake can have less of an effect than you may think, depending on your internal components and case.
> I tried it on an H100 in a Corsair 600T case and the grand result was 3c. My video cards at the time were reference HD6970 cards, so their heat exhaust went out the back of the case.
> If your video card exhausts inside your case, you may have better luck using your radiator fans as intake since you could currently be exhausting your hot video card exhaust out your radiator..




Here's a picture of my GPU.

https://pcpartpicker.com/b/8qsZxr

Here you can see whats inside


----------



## Removed1

To clarify some though said there:

-The H100 and bellow belonging to the same series didn't have the possibility to get the fan control through Corsair link.
Also they support Corsair Link, but the physical one, the old system made bay Corsair.
Corsair hardware needed to be connected physically with a wire to this Corsair Link Station, then itself connected through USB to the motherboard, finally allowing you to tune the fans using the Corsair link program.
Nevertheless without the Corsair link Station you can't tune the fans and you need to be stuck with the 3 default fan curves, in my case my gpu block. They are not so bad compared to the H100i and up default curves.

-The H100i and up belonging to the same series, instead could be connected directly to the motherboard through USB, Corsair decided it was better to remove the Corsair Link Station, wise and strong move.
So you can finally tune directly the fans speed and modes using the Corsair Link program, that control all the Corsair hardware connected either using USB or using the old Corsair link Station i think.
If you didn't install the tool you can't change your fans speed and you are stuck to the default ones; in this case one of the 3 default profiles already loaded and you can't switch it since there is no button on the H100i.
Theoretically you could create a custom profile mode with the Corsair link, load it and then uninstall the program. I mean sometimes i close the program and reboot or shut down and it still hold my custom profile.
But i'm not sure this work with the fan curves, maybe only with the fixed rpm profile. So i think you need the tool to be installed to apply the profiles but the tool must not actually run under window to made them work.


----------



## QuacK

@LostParticle



Was able to lower voltage a little to 1.308v under load.
Also i've enabled C-states so voltage drops some more on idle.
Think this is getting more closer to normal temp for a 4.8GHz @1.3v OC?









It will differ per CPU, and I know mine's delidded.
I think alot of people though when they hear a CPU is delidded... they expect like a 20C temperature drop, but this isn't always the case









I had mine delidded straight away when it was delivered.
It would have been nice to be able to compare a before and after, but at the time it was just easier to do it straight away


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuacK*
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a picture of my GPU.
> 
> https://pcpartpicker.com/b/8qsZxr
> 
> Here you can see whats inside


OK, so your card is like the two I have in my system now (MSI RX480 8GB Gamer X). They exhaust their hot air inside the case. If you were to change your radiator fans to draw cool air into the case, you may see a better temperature drop than I did when I tested it with my old cards.

Advantage: Cooler air being drawn into the case should lower your cpu temps.
Advantage: Cooler air should also help your chipset temps.
Advantage: May help creating a positive pressure inside your case.

Disadvantage: You may draw more dust into your radiator.
Disadvantage: You may draw more dust over-all into your case.

Give it try. It might be worth it.


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> OK, so your card is like the two I have in my system now (MSI RX480 8GB Gamer X). They exhaust their hot air inside the case. If you were to change your radiator fans to draw cool air into the case, you may see a better temperature drop than I did when I tested it with my old cards.
> 
> Advantage: Cooler air being drawn into the case should lower your cpu temps.
> Advantage: Cooler air should also help your chipset temps.
> Advantage: May help creating a positive pressure inside your case.
> 
> Disadvantage: You may draw more dust into your radiator.
> Disadvantage: You may draw more dust over-all into your case.
> 
> Give it try. It might be worth it.


Thanks for the information.









Maybe in a couple of months ill give it a try


----------



## Ricwin

Having some issues with my H105 and may need to replace the pump unit. Does anyone know what the diameter of the tube is? It looks like 10mm inner and 13mm outer but want to be sure before I do anything.


----------



## Wabbit16

My H80i blue LED finally failed on my pump/heatsink assembly. I knew this day would come!









RIP little blue light. Your green and red comrades will miss you


----------



## Zaen

Really need to change my H100i fans. Either i have them in fixed low rpm, and that doesn't cool much my OC'ed CPU nearing max voltage, or i make a profile but even at an average speed they won't let me sleep, and i'm [email protected] now and need to sleep before work







but the fans noise won't let me rest properly.

I asked last month if a 120mm Phanteks fans would be good for this but got no reply, so let me ask in a less specific manner.

What fans can do the same job as corsairs stock but at a lower rpm, or even better, with lower noise but keep or improve on cooling performance? What others here have experienced with?

Thx for any and all replys.


----------



## Wabbit16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> Really need to change my H100i fans. Either i have them in fixed low rpm, and that doesn't cool much my OC'ed CPU nearing max voltage, or i make a profile but even at an average speed they won't let me sleep, and i'm [email protected] now and need to sleep before work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but the fans noise won't let me rest properly.
> 
> I asked last month if a 120mm Phanteks fans would be good for this but got no reply, so let me ask in a less specific manner.
> 
> What fans can do the same job as corsairs stock but at a lower rpm, or even better, with lower noise but keep or improve on cooling performance? What others here have experienced with?
> 
> Thx for any and all replys.


Earplugs?









Sent from my Redmi Note 2 using Tapatalk


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*
> 
> Earplugs?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Redmi Note 2 using Tapatalk


That would leave me with another problem, earing the alarm clock in the morning to go to work


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> Really need to change my H100i fans. Either i have them in fixed low rpm, and that doesn't cool much my OC'ed CPU nearing max voltage, or i make a profile but even at an average speed they won't let me sleep, and i'm [email protected] now and need to sleep before work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but the fans noise won't let me rest properly.
> 
> I asked last month if a 120mm Phanteks fans would be good for this but got no reply, so let me ask in a less specific manner.
> 
> What fans can do the same job as corsairs stock but at a lower rpm, or even better, with lower noise but keep or improve on cooling performance? What others here have experienced with?
> 
> Thx for any and all replys.


Which Phanteks fans exactly did you have in mind?

You need to have fans with some decent static pressure, but I think it'll be tough / if not impossible to match the corsair fans with significant less noise.


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuacK*
> 
> Which Phanteks fans exactly did you have in mind?
> 
> You need to have fans with some decent static pressure, but I think it'll be tough / if not impossible to match the corsair fans with significant less noise.


sp120
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuacK*
> 
> Which Phanteks fans exactly did you have in mind?
> 
> You need to have fans with some decent static pressure, but I think it'll be tough / if not impossible to match the corsair fans with significant less noise.


sry for the delayed reply...

I made an order for PH-F120SP red led, http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F120SP-LED.html , but the place i ordered it from is yet to reply so i figured i ask again what could be a good substitute for the stock fans and cancel previous order, if need be, or just change the request.

I have several fans of this model, but the 140mm variant, in my case and they seem to do a fair job, given the dust i collect inside the case, with almost no noise. The static pressure on the phantek's is similar, but not as good, as the corsair stock fans it seems to me. I have another option but i don't like it ^_^ going with some ugly brown Noctua or the much better looking, but off color, low rpm Vardar from EK, i prefer the phantek's, aesthetically speaking, for my case.


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> sp120
> sry for the delayed reply...
> 
> I made an order for PH-F120SP red led, http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F120SP-LED.html , but the place i ordered it from is yet to reply so i figured i ask again what could be a good substitute for the stock fans and cancel previous order, if need be, or just change the request.
> 
> I have several fans of this model, but the 140mm variant, in my case and they seem to do a fair job, given the dust i collect inside the case, with almost no noise. The static pressure on the phantek's is similar, but not as good, as the corsair stock fans it seems to me. I have another option but i don't like it ^_^ going with some ugly brown Noctua or the much better looking, but off color, low rpm Vardar from EK, i prefer the phantek's, aesthetically speaking, for my case.


Just had a look at the Phanteks you linked, but according to their specs they have a much lower static pressure rating at full speed:

1.29 mm H2O compared to I believe 4.00mm H20 that the Corsair fans have (correct me if im wrong).

I think you will have to make a choice whether you lean more towards having better aesthetics, or you want better performance with as much less noise as possible.

I had to make the same trade-off with my case and Corsair H115i. For me the choice was clear, I just wanted cool looking case fans, and decent performing fans to replace the stock H115i fans.

So I went with Noctua NF-A14 IndustrialPPC 2000 PWM fans to replace my H115i fans. I just let my friend change the fans straight away when the cooler was delivered.

I think I definetly lost some cooling performance, but at the same time I am happy with the cooling performance that I still get now with the Noctua fans when running them at a bearable fixed speed in terms of noise, and when I do run something heavy on my PC I set them to max speeds, but the cooling performance is pretty much the same... I had hoped this would have been a little better, but im happy though.

To come back to the point: I think with those Phanteks fans you will lose a significant amount of cooling performance.

I would personally look for something better, also because those Phanteks fans are casefans, and not very suited as radiator fans.

Where do you have your radiator mounted? Is aesthetics really that important?
If you have it mounted in the front of the case then I can understand it is









Personally right now im using:

H115i mounted in the top of my case, with 2 Noctua NF-A14 IndustrialPPC 2000 PWM fans.
3 Corsair ML 120 Pro led fan's in the front of the case and 1 ML 140 in the rear.
But at full speed they are loud I can tell you.

Im running them on a Phobiya 1 to 8x 4pin PWM hub which I connected to my CPU Fan header and have them controlled by the motherboard.

Soon im planning to buy a Corsair Commander Mini, to be able to control the speeds of those 4 casefans seperately via Corsair Link or SIV software.

I hope this helps.


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuacK*
> 
> Just had a look at the Phanteks you linked, but according to their specs they have a much lower static pressure rating at full speed:
> 
> 1.29 mm H2O compared to I believe 4.00mm H20 that the Corsair fans have (correct me if im wrong).
> 
> I think you will have to make a choice whether you lean more towards having better aesthetics, or you want better performance with as much less noise as possible.
> 
> I had to make the same trade-off with my case and Corsair H115i. For me the choice was clear, I just wanted cool looking case fans, and decent performing fans to replace the stock H115i fans.
> 
> So I went with Noctua NF-A14 IndustrialPPC 2000 PWM fans to replace my H115i fans. I just let my friend change the fans straight away when the cooler was delivered.
> 
> I think I definetly lost some cooling performance, but at the same time I am happy with the cooling performance that I still get now with the Noctua fans when running them at a bearable fixed speed in terms of noise, and when I do run something heavy on my PC I set them to max speeds, but the cooling performance is pretty much the same... I had hoped this would have been a little better, but im happy though.
> 
> To come back to the point: I think with those Phanteks fans you will lose a significant amount of cooling performance.
> 
> I would personally look for something better, also because those Phanteks fans are casefans, and not very suited as radiator fans.
> 
> Where do you have your radiator mounted? Is aesthetics really that important?
> If you have it mounted in the front of the case then I can understand it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally right now im using:
> 
> H115i mounted in the top of my case, with 2 Noctua NF-A14 IndustrialPPC 2000 PWM fans.
> 3 Corsair ML 120 Pro led fan's in the front of the case and 1 ML 140 in the rear.
> But at full speed they are loud I can tell you.
> 
> Im running them on a Phobiya 1 to 8x 4pin PWM hub which I connected to my CPU Fan header and have them controlled by the motherboard.
> 
> Soon im planning to buy a Corsair Commander Mini, to be able to control the speeds of those 4 casefans seperately via Corsair Link or SIV software.
> 
> I hope this helps.


Help.. yes you did









I must have been looking at the wrong corsair fans, the difference in static pressure wasn't double xD

If i could get my hands on some black 120mm Noctua i would get those right at the start but i only see beige and brown ones. I will probably go with some Vardar, since they are made by EK for water radiators i should be good with those, no LED's but i can make those myself if i really want them. Now to look for reviews on those low rpm Vardar, or some black Noctua









As to case cooling i have plenty, more then needed imo. They are all Phantek's, as is the case, 1 front 200mm and 1 below 140mm pulling air in, another 140mm in the back pushing out and another 140mm on top also pushing out. The corsair radiator is on top pushing air out. The case has included a fan HUB to connect up to 5 or 6 fans that use the signal coming from the cpu PWM fan header, or another header if i plug the HUB to a SATA pwr plug in the chance it's not a PWM header, i'm using that for the 3 140mm case fans








I think, not sure really, that i was able to have negative pressure in the case, even if a small value, but given the dust it collects inside i'm not sure if the 200mm fan isn't pulling it towards positive pressures when it speeds up.


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> Help.. yes you did
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must have been looking at the wrong corsair fans, the difference in static pressure wasn't double xD
> 
> If i could get my hands on some black 120mm Noctua i would get those right at the start but i only see beige and brown ones. I will probably go with some Vardar, since they are made by EK for water radiators i should be good with those, no LED's but i can make those myself if i really want them. Now to look for reviews on those low rpm Vardar, or some black Noctua
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As to case cooling i have plenty, more then needed imo. They are all Phantek's, as is the case, 1 front 200mm and 1 below 140mm pulling air in, another 140mm in the back pushing out and another 140mm on top also pushing out. The corsair radiator is on top pushing air out. The case has included a fan HUB to connect up to 5 or 6 fans that use the signal coming from the cpu PWM fan header, or another header if i plug the HUB to a SATA pwr plug in the chance it's not a PWM header, i'm using that for the 3 140mm case fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think, not sure really, that i was able to have negative pressure in the case, even if a small value, but given the dust it collects inside i'm not sure if the 200mm fan isn't pulling it towards positive pressures when it speeds up.


Im glad I was able to help.

Hope you are able to cancel your order for the Phanteks.
When you look for replacing fans, compare the static pressure and noise dba to the (correct







) Corsair fans.

Amount of CFM is worth to look at aswell.
But if you have to chose between either high static pressure and somewhat lower CFM vs higher CFM but lower static pressure,
I would go for highest static pressure









Its hard to find the middle way, and make a good choice, I know all to well.

I spent months looking for fans, doubting between certain specific fans and after a couple of months just decided to go for it









But its definetly worth to look around the net for a while and don't rush too much


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuacK*
> 
> Im glad I was able to help.
> 
> Hope you are able to cancel your order for the Phanteks.
> When you look for replacing fans, compare the static pressure and noise dba to the (correct
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) Corsair fans.
> 
> Amount of CFM is worth to look at aswell.
> But if you have to chose between either high static pressure and somewhat lower CFM vs higher CFM but lower static pressure,
> I would go for highest static pressure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its hard to find the middle way, and make a good choice, I know all to well.
> 
> I spent months looking for fans, doubting between certain specific fans and after a couple of months just decided to go for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But its definetly worth to look around the net for a while and don't rush too much


Yes i agree with you, i have been looking for some time too but have had other things take priority over the fans. The Phantek's won't go to waste, even if i can't cancel or change the order it's been a few days over 1 month since i ordered them from a retailer near me and i think i won't have a problem, i can always switch one of the 140mm (top or low) and fit 2x120mm or the front 200mm were i can actually fit 2x140mm, the case is pretty big and i'm also imagining some sort of inside fan to help more with the air circulation near the SSD's and those 120mm probably can fit snugly behind them









Edit: Vardar are too loud, even the 1850rpm. No store in my whole country (unbelievable i know) has a Schyte Gentle Typhoon AP15 so i will probably get these http://www.chiptec.net/catalogsearch/result/?cat=0&q=Noctua+NF-F12+IndustrialPPC-2000+-+120mm if they are idd black they are nearly perfect


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ricwin*
> 
> Having some issues with my H105 and may need to replace the pump unit. Does anyone know what the diameter of the tube is? It looks like 10mm inner and 13mm outer but want to be sure before I do anything.


I wouldn't bother changing the tubes if I were you, its not worth the trouble. You have a 5 year warranty on that cooler, take advantage of it and have it replaced via RMA. I can help on that but first you need to create an RMA ticket here, Corsair.force.com.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*
> 
> My H80i blue LED finally failed on my pump/heatsink assembly. I knew this day would come!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RIP little blue light. Your green and red comrades will miss you


If your cooler is still under warranty, have it replaced. Like what I said above, submit an RMA ticket and we can arrange a replacement for you.


----------



## ihatelolcats

will there be am4 kits available for the original h100 or are they not needed


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> will there be am4 kits available for the original h100 or are they not needed


I think that I've seen it posted somewhere in OCN before , but here you go :


Now for the older models a Corsair rep might want to chip in


----------



## Zaen

Noctua NF-F12 2000rpm are on route, arrive tomorrow but only will install them Saturday afternoon \o/

Now to see if these behave better with noise and hope i don't loose much in cooling compared to stock, because when i fold i get temps spikes going to 83-85ºc and average of 77ºc. Probably going to turn my case back 140mm fan from pushing air out to pulling air in and see if i can get more cool air bellow the radiator and increase cooling a bit more.
If all goes well i'm putting the stock fans from the cooler in the case, 1 at the bottom pulling air in and the other i'm going to check how to fit it behind the drive bay and cool the SSD's and future HDD at the min. speed to avoid more noise









Wish me luck


----------



## QuacK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> Noctua NF-F12 2000rpm are on route, arrive tomorrow but only will install them Saturday afternoon \o/
> 
> Now to see if these behave better with noise and hope i don't loose much in cooling compared to stock, because when i fold i get temps spikes going to 83-85ºc and average of 77ºc. Probably going to turn my case back 140mm fan from pushing air out to pulling air in and see if i can get more cool air bellow the radiator and increase cooling a bit more.
> If all goes well i'm putting the stock fans from the cooler in the case, 1 at the bottom pulling air in and the other i'm going to check how to fit it behind the drive bay and cool the SSD's and future HDD at the min. speed to avoid more noise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish me luck


Yeah, those should be more in line compared with the stock corsair fans.
They should be quieter indeed and still perform what I think would be decent.

I dunno about letting the rear fan pull air in. Don't think it will be a good idea, but you can always try









Good luck.


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuacK*
> 
> Yeah, those should be more in line compared with the stock corsair fans.
> They should be quieter indeed and still perform what I think would be decent.
> 
> I dunno about letting the rear fan pull air in. Don't think it will be a good idea, but you can always try
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck.


Thx









Been doing more calculations on what CFM i have in/out and i concluded that i now have negative pressure inside the case








Until i have the Noctua's and fiddle around with the 120mm fans, it's the only way to reverse the case air pressure and have cooler air inside the case for the radiator and i might get 1 or 2ºc less on the cpu.

With the radiator on top pushing the case air out through the grills it's logical that if i manage to have more air inside the case, going to positive air pressures, i may get cooler temps. When i do get the fans to switch with the corsair's i will have at least 1 more fan on bottom pushing air in to balance the pressures inside the case and i can revert that back 140mm fan to pushing air out again.

Due to the CPU being water cooled and my GPU hardly heats up over 60ºc my case air is same temp as outside but i figure i need more air inside due to the 75ºc+ temps i get when folding, and those temps for periods of 10h+ leave my hair on end and itchy too









I have to admit i'm not gentle on my CPU, 1.424Vcore (HWiNFO) is a tad high but was the point were my OC was stable with adjustable voltage to the load on CPU and a average LLC to help with the Vdroop. If i lower any of these settings it immediately becomes unstable.


----------



## Ricwin

After a few months of my H105 pump running slightly slower than normal and making alot of noise, I've replaced it with something else.
£110 for another H105 which will again probably last 18 months tops, or £60 for an Antec H1200. I opted for the Antec and it does the job well enough for now even on my overclocked AMD system.

Both H60 and H105 have let me down


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Been waiting since sept/okt.2016
For rma for h100i..still nothing..so yeah dunno whats up with them..


----------



## Mergatroid

Hey, try a private message to Corsair Joseph.

He might be able to help you out.


----------



## Psilosoph8

Has anyone with an EVGA 1070/1080 hybrid card tried to swap out the stock AIO for something like an h100i?

technically it should work just fine, the only reason i can imagine it wouldn't work is if the corsair pump is much larger than the card can fit.

Is there anyone with an h100i as well as a generic Asetek 120mm AIO that can post up pics side by side or even measurements of the pumps?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

You should look in the gpu mod aio threads..
There youll find yoda with all the info you seek warrior!!
It has been done before.

And yes. I have pmd joseph till i care not too pm anymore..going to mod the unit and call it quits. Ive got n old antec920/h70/"60 units pumps that work ,..


----------



## Mergatroid

Well, that's really unfortunate. There is no way in hell I would accept waiting months on an RMA.
What's up with that Corsair Joseph? I am sure everyone here would like to know what could possibly cause an RMA to take months.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> You should look in the gpu mod aio threads..
> There youll find yoda with all the info you seek warrior!!
> It has been done before.
> 
> And yes. I have pmd joseph till i care not too pm anymore..going to mod the unit and call it quits. Ive got n old antec920/h70/"60 units pumps that work ,..


Hey man, I'm really sorry to hear about your RMA situation, I really thought that we've already got you all sorted out. I did put in the word to expedite your RMA, but for some reason it keeps bouncing back to you. I just replied to your email, let's go over your RMA and figure out what causing the delay.


----------



## Mergatroid

Hey everyone.

I just switched to Windows 10 (notice I didn't say "upgraded").

Man, is it ever unstable compared to Windows 7. I am also finding some things, simple things, I just can't seem to do in Windows 10 that were simple to do in Windows 7.

For instance, just putting something in the startup folder is an adventure in itself. Don't even bother trying to create a shortcut in the startup folder (if you manage to find it), you have to make the shortcut on the desktop and then copy it to the startup folder. Of course, even that didn't work and the app failed.

I did manage to create a task using task scheduler, then it turned out that the app wouldn't open on the correct monitor. Don't even get me started on the multi monitor issues I have encountered (I thought they made multi-monitors better, but it's just more of the same).

Anyway, I am trying to get some temperature software to open on a 6" monitor I have on my desk. I was using gadgets in Windows 7, but of course MS removed them in W10 (and 8).

For my GPUs, I am using Afterburner and it seems OK. I just wish I could make it a little easier to read on a small monitor, but the graph lines aren't bad.

I am trying to find an app that will run at boot, and open on my littler monitor. So far, all the apps I have tried have issues that cause them to be unacceptable for this task.

Real Temp will not open on the little monitor (I had to use Task Scheduler for it), Speed Fan is not reporting the correct RPMs for my fans, and doesn't show all the fans on my board. Hardware Info is just too small, and doesn't focus on temps but has way more data than I need. Same with Speccy. Core Temp is too small, I can't read the temps on the small monitor.

I was thinking about using Rainmeter, but it's just too complex for such a small requirement.

I also had a look at open hardware monitor, but again it was not what I am looking for.

In Windows 7, I had the perfect gadgets for displaying all the information I needed. Now with Windows 10, it seems impossible to get it to do what I need. Leave it to Microsoft to remove such a great, useful feature.

This is driving me crazy. I can use my ASUS AI Suite, but it also shows the information in a way that is too small to read on a 6" monitor.

Does anyone know of a nice temperature monitoring app that has a large font for the temperatures (or a font that can be changed or resized), can start with windows, and will open on the last monitor is was closed on?


----------



## nowcontrol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Hey everyone.
> In Windows 7, I had the perfect gadgets for displaying all the information I needed. Now with Windows 10, it seems impossible to get it to do what I need. Leave it to Microsoft to remove such a great, useful feature.


http://8gadgetpack.net/

Install that and use all of the old gadgets you used too have.

I still use these.... http://addgadgets.com/


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> ...
> 
> Does anyone know of a nice temperature monitoring app that has a large font for the temperatures (or a font that can be changed or resized), can start with windows, and will open on the last monitor is was closed on?


Isn't HWiNFO64 suitable for you? You can Hide-Disable all the values you don't need + you can increase the font size (and change the Font type, as well), in the Sensor panel. I use it constantly and it always loads on my secondary monitor, on [Windows 10 Pro] start-up.


----------



## Mergatroid

Thanks for the awesome suggestions guys. I will check into both of those when I get home from work.
I literally spent the entire night last night looking for an app that would suit my needs. I started playing around with rain meter, and I sent a copy to a buddy when I started getting all these virus warnings.
Had to do an hour's worth of scans to make sure I wasn't infected.
Windows 10 became very unstable after trying some of these apps as well.
Back to testing again tonight.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Thanks for the awesome suggestions guys. I will check into both of those when I get home from work.
> I literally spent the entire night last night looking for an app that would suit my needs. I started playing around with rain meter, and I sent a copy to a buddy when I started getting all these virus warnings.
> Had to do an hour's worth of scans to make sure I wasn't infected.
> Windows 10 became very unstable after trying some of these apps as well.
> Back to testing again tonight.


Glad I could help and good luck with your testing! Pretty surprising that you haven't started from HWiNFO64, already: it is very recommended in these forums. One suggestion, if I may, regarding Win 10: if you already got into virus issues etc, better spare 10 minutes and clean-install it, on its own/dedicated SSD. I don't know if you have this possibility, but it will be the best. In my system it takes less than 15 minutes to clean-install Win 10 Pro + all the required drivers (which I already keep in my USB stick, anyway).


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> I think that I've seen it posted somewhere in OCN before , but here you go :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the older models a Corsair rep might want to chip in


We've just made it official so just everyone is clear on our AIO coolers compatibility with Ryzen AM4

http://www.corsair.com/ryzen


----------



## MrAgapiGC

Hello Guys.. I have a H115i. what happened if disconnect the usb cable from the pump in the corsair. The fans will be connected on the mother board. The pump will be on 100%? if so I can ditch the the link. I am using a z270 ausus hero IX with 6700K. or for better get a h110V2. ?


----------



## ihatelolcats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> I think that I've seen it posted somewhere in OCN before , but here you go :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the older models a Corsair rep might want to chip in
> 
> 
> 
> We've just made it official so just everyone is clear on our AIO coolers compatibility with Ryzen AM4
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/ryzen
Click to expand...

what about H100?


----------



## MrAgapiGC

Hi Guys!. As far is my thing of research, the only motherboard that can do AM3 mounts is the Asus Croshair Hero. I see the video o pictures somewhere. As soon you take the mounts there is the options.


----------



## Mergatroid

Actually, I did try it, but I had no idea I could control the size of the fonts. That really makes it the go-to app for displaying monitored information on a small display.
In case you are curious, I am using an ultra wide monitor on my desk, which pretty much takes up all the space. A tiny little monitor was perfect for displaying temperature data and would actually fit.



Now I am displaying this:



Thanks for the info.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nowcontrol*
> 
> http://8gadgetpack.net/
> 
> Install that and use all of the old gadgets you used too have.
> 
> I still use these.... http://addgadgets.com/


That's fargin awesome. Thanks.


----------



## nesham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> We've just made it official so just everyone is clear on our AIO coolers compatibility with Ryzen AM4
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/ryzen


And how can order AM4 mounting kit someone who are in another country then USA or Canada.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> what about H100?


We didn't get the chance to validate the H100 and H80 because they've been EOL for a while now, but since H80i/H100i and H80/H100 have very similar mounting system, mechanically, they'll probably work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nesham*
> 
> And how can order AM4 mounting kit someone who are in another country then USA or Canada.


You can get them directly from our website. There is coupon code on this page to get them for free, http://www.corsair.com/en-us/ryzen


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> We didn't get the chance to validate the H100 and H80 because they've been EOL for a while now, but since H80i/H100i and H80/H100 have very similar mounting system, mechanically, they'll probably work.
> You can get them directly from our website. There is coupon code on this page to get them for free, http://www.corsair.com/en-us/ryzen


Is what you say valid for the H110, as well?

Also, an off-topic inquiry, please:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



One of the SSD/HDD drive cages of my Air 540, or whatever they are called, has broken. I am referring to one of those found on the front chamber, at the bottom of the chassis. How can I get one of those? Am I eligible for free replacement from Corsair - after opening a ticket - or should I seek to purchase one?

Here are the items I am referring to:


----------



## nesham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> We didn't get the chance to validate the H100 and H80 because they've been EOL for a while now, but since H80i/H100i and H80/H100 have very similar mounting system, mechanically, they'll probably work.
> You can get them directly from our website. There is coupon code on this page to get them for free, http://www.corsair.com/en-us/ryzen


I find







. I tried to order but I wasn't logged in.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Is what you say valid for the H110, as well?
> 
> Also, an off-topic inquiry, please:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> One of the SSD/HDD drive cages of my Air 540, or whatever they are called, has broken. I am referring to one of those found on the front chamber, at the bottom of the chassis. How can I get one of those? Am I eligible for free replacement from Corsair - after opening a ticket - or should I seek to purchase one?
> 
> Here are the items I am referring to:


Not with H110. The mounting bracket for that cooler is similar to H110i GTX, you need to use our Ryzen AM4 bracket.

For the Air540 HDD tray, you can request that part via RMA process. Just make sure to provide your Air540 invoice when you submit your request.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Not with H110. The mounting bracket for that cooler is similar to H110i GTX, you need to use our Ryzen AM4 bracket.
> 
> For the Air540 HDD tray, you can request that part via RMA process. Just make sure to provide your Air540 invoice when you submit your request.


Thank you very much!


----------



## Cherryblue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> We've just made it official so just everyone is clear on our AIO coolers compatibility with Ryzen AM4
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/ryzen


Ryzen isn't even officially released at this specific hour, and I cannot use the coupon for the free bracket on your website.

I bought a H75 5 months ago, in France.

I really am disappointed, I hope, it's only a temporary problem with your website. Because having this working a few hours doesn't allow every Corsair AIO buyer to get its due.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Thank you very much!


No problem at all








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cherryblue*
> 
> Ryzen isn't even officially released at this specific hour, and I cannot use the coupon for the free bracket on your website.
> 
> I bought a H75 5 months ago, in France.
> 
> I really am disappointed, I hope, it's only a temporary problem with your website. Because having this working a few hours doesn't allow every Corsair AIO buyer to get its due.


That's odd because a friend of mine over in The Netherlands told me that he was able to order the Ryzen AM4 bracket from our website. Did you get some kind of error when placing the order?


----------



## Cherryblue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> That's odd because a friend of mine over in The Netherlands told me that he was able to order the Ryzen AM4 bracket from our website. Did you get some kind of error when placing the order?


Here is Corsair's french page. Gives no possibility to even order the bracket sadly.

Before that, I tried corsair europe, where the bracket is available.

And here is the result, for me all this day, and I just tried again:


Could you please, help me? Is there something I'm doing wrong?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

@corsair joseph..ive replied to your mail..thank you..


----------



## dboythagr8

I had a H100i and made a post some time ago complaining of noise issues.

I went out and get a H110i yesterday. Pretty happy with it. Noticeable improvement in build quality from my H100i. Love how versatile the Air 540 is too. I've thrown tons of things at this case and it handles everything, no problem









Once I got home and hooked everything up, I looked online and saw a H110i GTX. I got my H110i from Frys, and didn't see a GTX anywhere. What's the difference between the two, is it just the manufactures? Did I buy the "older" version, and does anybody have any suggestions for 140mm fans I can throw on the radiator?

Thanks


----------



## nowcontrol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> I went out and get a H110i yesterday. Pretty happy with it. Noticeable improvement in build quality from my H100i. Love how versatile the Air 540 is too. I've thrown tons of things at this case and it handles everything, no problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> does anybody have any suggestions for 140mm fans I can throw on the radiator?
> 
> Thanks


I am using the Twin-Pack Corsair ML140 fans and they do just fine, see HERE.


----------



## dboythagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nowcontrol*
> 
> I am using the Twin-Pack Corsair ML140 fans and they do just fine, see HERE.


Haha funny how things come full circle. You're using the GTX where the tubing comes out differently than my H110i. I can't really tell, but are the two fans plugged into the header somewhere or do you have them going to the mobo?


----------



## nesham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cherryblue*
> 
> Here is Corsair's french page. Gives no possibility to even order the bracket sadly.
> 
> Before that, I tried corsair europe, where the bracket is available.
> 
> And here is the result, for me all this day, and I just tried again:
> 
> 
> Could you please, help me? Is there something I'm doing wrong?


You need to be logged in.


----------



## Cherryblue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nesham*
> 
> You need to be logged in.


I was ... 'Been trying for two full days...

EDIT: Bro, you just saved my life.

I had created an account and was signed in on US website. No EU website.

Signing in on EU website allowed me to apply the coupon.... finally...







.

Thanks again for the advice, I was aware you had to be connected, but forgot to check it again.


----------



## nowcontrol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dboythagr8*
> 
> Haha funny how things come full circle. You're using the GTX where the tubing comes out differently than my H110i. I can't really tell, but are the two fans plugged into the header somewhere or do you have them going to the mobo?


The fans are plugged into the headers from the pump, all of the cables have been tucked away in the back compartment of the case.


----------



## w-moffatt

hey all,

adding myself to the club







just built my first rig in a few years last week. Photos below!!

Using the H60 - also my first AiO cooler. Really impressed with the ease of install and how quiet this thing actually is. Temp never cracks 50c in the case (it's my gaming rig)




Cheers,
Will


----------



## aberrero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> We didn't get the chance to validate the H100 and H80 because they've been EOL for a while now, but since H80i/H100i and H80/H100 have very similar mounting system, mechanically, they'll probably work.
> You can get them directly from our website. There is coupon code on this page to get them for free, http://www.corsair.com/en-us/ryzen


Will the H100 need a bracket? I ordered the bracket but I'd prefer to have it work out of the box. I also have a spare H90 just in case, but I've found the H100 to have the quietest pump and I refuse to upgrade.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> hey all,
> 
> adding myself to the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just built my first rig in a few years last week. Photos below!!
> 
> Using the H60 - also my first AiO cooler. Really impressed with the ease of install and how quiet this thing actually is. Temp never cracks 50c in the case (it's my gaming rig)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> Will


Sweet.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Anyone here ever removed the stock tubing of a h100i? Ive modded a aio or two before..but the h100i fittings are a bit different on the pump unit than previous versions!!


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aberrero*
> 
> Will the H100 need a bracket? I ordered the bracket but I'd prefer to have it work out of the box. I also have a spare H90 just in case, but I've found the H100 to have the quietest pump and I refuse to upgrade.


H100 bracket system is very similar to H100i so in hindsight, there's no reason why it shouldn't. We just couldn't validate it since it's no longer in production.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> Anyone here ever removed the stock tubing of a h100i? Ive modded a aio or two before..but the h100i fittings are a bit different on the pump unit than previous versions!!


I wouldn't do that if that unit is perfectly working. The fittings on those are tight sealed, it'll require a good amount of force to disconnect them.


----------



## eskamobob1

So, I think my old H60i finally died. getting idle temps in the 80s with the fan running. I didnt see a leak, so im guessing the pump died. I overnighted a 212 from amazon since I have a lot of modeling to do this week, but I think its officaly time for me to leave the club. It was an awesome little system while it lasted


----------



## Lifeshield

What sort of noise should the H100i pump make in performance mode?

When I boot the system or put it into Performance mode it's a little louder than expected like a buzzing/drilling type noise). Pretty much silent in Quiet mode though.

You can't hear if if you put the fans in performance mode too but with custom curve where the fans are almost silent it's fairly audible in a quiet room.

I replaced a H50 for the same reason. Can't be dealing with the whole process again with the H100i. It doesn't seem like it should be normal but it's the same on two different models I have tried so far.


----------



## Asy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> I wouldn't do that if that unit is perfectly working. The fittings on those are tight sealed, it'll require a good amount of force to disconnect them.


Any idea when the am4 brackets will ship ??


----------



## bbaydar

Hey folks,

Anyone else using a H110i on a Ryzen R7? I've had mine running about a week now and temps on the CPU report in the low 40's at idle, peaking to low 60's under load. The Corsair utility reports that the H110i hovers around 22. Which ambient being around 18 (Canada in winter eh?)

I know the Ryzen chips have the temp offset, but the ASUS 1001 EUFI/BIOS supposedly reports the correct temps.

Just trying to get an idea if my temps are normal or whatnot.

Imgur gallery here: http://imgur.com/gallery/db6tL


----------



## Mgrandy

add me please ty


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbaydar*
> 
> Hey folks,
> 
> Anyone else using a H110i on a Ryzen R7? I've had mine running about a week now and temps on the CPU report in the low 40's at idle, peaking to low 60's under load. The Corsair utility reports that the H110i hovers around 22. Which ambient being around 18 (Canada in winter eh?)
> 
> I know the Ryzen chips have the temp offset, but the ASUS 1001 EUFI/BIOS supposedly reports the correct temps.
> 
> Just trying to get an idea if my temps are normal or whatnot.
> 
> Imgur gallery here: http://imgur.com/gallery/db6tL


Those temps are perfectly fine, I wouldn't worry about them


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lifeshield*
> 
> What sort of noise should the H100i pump make in performance mode?
> 
> When I boot the system or put it into Performance mode it's a little louder than expected like a buzzing/drilling type noise). Pretty much silent in Quiet mode though.
> 
> You can't hear if if you put the fans in performance mode too but with custom curve where the fans are almost silent it's fairly audible in a quiet room.
> 
> I replaced a H50 for the same reason. Can't be dealing with the whole process again with the H100i. It doesn't seem like it should be normal but it's the same on two different models I have tried so far.


Based on that description, that pump noise level is about right. Inaudible on quiet mode and a bit noticeable on performance but not louder than the fans on performance mode. If there's no huge difference in temps between quiet and performance mode, I'd keep on quiet mode.


----------



## bbaydar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Those temps are perfectly fine, I wouldn't worry about them


Thanks. I wasn't too worried about it, but it's nice to have confirmation. It's higher than my previous FX8370, but that was using an older H55.

Hard to compare the two.


----------



## eskamobob1

so I got the h60 swapped out and got around to testing it, and the pump runs as well as the fan, but my temps were 90C idle, nothing open. Any other ideas what it could have been? With the hyper 212 i average 26C idle, so i know its not the sensors being off.


----------



## Mergatroid

It has to be either poor contact between the block and the cpu or the pump isn't working.
Make sure the back plate is right side up, and make sure there are no capacitors hitting the cooling block, preventing it from properly contacting the cpu. You may need to rotate the block 90 degrees to avoid capacitors.


----------



## eskamobob1

I had good TIM spread and was not contacting anything. It has been working well for over a year (in this rig and 3 in another) before my temps skyrocketed a week ago. I tried removing, cleaning, and reinstalling to no avail (no backplate b/c 2011 btw). When I plug the pump into a molex power converter I can feel it running and I ensured the fan was running while installed as well.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

If its not poor seating and you have different result using another cooler, then it must be the H60. 90°C on idle is definitely not a good sign. You said that you could feel the pump running, but do you know if there's liquid circulation?

If you are still under our warranty, have that cooler replaced via RMA.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> If its not poor seating and you have different result using another cooler, then it must be the H60. 90°C on idle is definitely not a good sign. You said that you could feel the pump running, but do you know if there's liquid circulation?
> 
> If you are still under our warranty, have that cooler replaced via RMA.


Not a clue if I have liquid movement. I'm guessing not from my results. Unfortunately it's the first gen h60i, so I doubt it's under warranty


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> I wouldn't do that if that unit is perfectly working. The fittings on those are tight sealed, it'll require a good amount of force to disconnect them.


You know perfectly well the units not running as it should..pump is defective..doesnt run full speed as it should..stays stuck under 2000rpm..
I intend to remove the tubes from the rad ..and use custom tubes and another aio pump unit i have to remake it into something else for a gpu cooling mod etc..

Ps..will post pics and results asap i can..thanx joseph..


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> I had good TIM spread and was not contacting anything. It has been working well for over a year (in this rig and 3 in another) before my temps skyrocketed a week ago. I tried removing, cleaning, and reinstalling to no avail (no backplate b/c 2011 btw). When I plug the pump into a molex power converter I can feel it running and I ensured the fan was running while installed as well.


If you have checked everything then there must be something wrong with the cooler. Liquid could have evaporated, or leaked. Pump may have broken even though it sounds like it's working. There could be a blockage of some type.
Don't those coolers have a five year warranty?


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> Not a clue if I have liquid movement. I'm guessing not from my results. Unfortunately it's the first gen h60i, so I doubt it's under warranty


Submit an RMA request anyway. Then send me a PM with your ticket # and I'll see what I can do


----------



## philhalo66

Think my H100i may be going out, just now while playing ark i noticed my CPU temps were in the high 80's when usually its in the mid to high 60's. so first thing i checked was the rad and it wasn't even warm it was ice cold and only one of the hoses was hot and i mean hot as hell and the other one was ice cold. the BIOS says the pump is running little over 2300RPM and corsair link says 2280 (never changes) could it be the pump going out?

In the event it is the pump and i need a replacement cooler, Is a refurb H100i V2 worth 75 bucks? Found one on newegg but i cant seem to find any details comparing the old h100i and the v2.


----------



## stephenn82

Can we get the newer equipments added? I have an H115i in my box.


----------



## jameyscott

New updates are coming in the future to this thread once I have more than 15 minutes to myself at a time.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Submit an RMA request anyway. Then send me a PM with your ticket # and I'll see what I can do


TYVM. Will do this weekend when I get back into town.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Recieved intact two weeks ago..will test asap i have a chance..thanks corsair joseph


----------



## bowman

Do I need to install the USB header thing to get the unit to work? The cable is so idiotically short there is no way it's gonna go on. Otherwise I need to reorient the pump, in which case its gonna be a pain in the ass to get the radiator in.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bowman*
> 
> Do I need to install the USB header thing to get the unit to work? The cable is so idiotically short there is no way it's gonna go on. Otherwise I need to reorient the pump, in which case its gonna be a pain in the ass to get the radiator in.


It will work but i believe the fans will be set to the balanced profile by default and you can't change them without using corsair link which requires the USB cable.


----------



## bowman

I'll just have to hope that 'balanced' isn't too noisy, then.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bowman*
> 
> I'll just have to hope that 'balanced' isn't too noisy, then.


I have the old H100i and its stupidly loud but im also running a heavily overclocked hot running processor so if your sig rig is up to date it should be much much quieter especially if you have a newer cooler.

*EDIT* worst case you can order a mini USB cable (provided thats what the block still uses for connector) and get a longer one.


----------



## bowman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> I have the old H100i and its stupidly loud but im also running a heavily overclocked hot running processor so if your sig rig is up to date it should be much much quieter especially if you have a newer cooler.
> 
> *EDIT* worst case you can order a mini USB cable (provided thats what the block still uses for connector) and get a longer one.


Oh, no, I'm building a new one here. Buying a H115i for a sandy bridge would be a bit silly.

Sig PC is now up to date, and I hope to reach the same frequency as you, so I guess I better order some Noctuas..


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bowman*
> 
> Oh, no, I'm building a new one here. Buying a H115i for a sandy bridge would be a bit silly.
> 
> Sig PC is now up to date, and I hope to reach the same frequency as you, so I guess I better order some Noctuas..


its going to sound like a jet engine unless you change the fans or connect the USB cable. even on quiet mine sounds like a hair dryer.


----------



## bowman

Assembled now and they are okay. My previous build had a stock Intel cooler which is the worst sounding fan on earth this side of a 1U server, so I guess I've been desensitized.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> its going to sound like a jet engine unless you change the fans or connect the USB cable. even on quiet mine sounds like a hair dryer.


It does? Mine sounds pretty good, even when stress testing and CPU gets to 55-60c with Balanced on. Performance is loud as hell though


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> It does? Mine sounds pretty good, even when stress testing and CPU gets to 55-60c with Balanced on. Performance is loud as hell though


Yeah IDK but it's a jet engine i can hear it throughout my house.


----------



## Zhany

Just received my AM4 adapter bracket today (was a little worried about the solution just due to my paranoia on causing any scratches) it mounts to the existing AM4 bracket it has a little hood that goes over the screw that sits flush with the motherboard when tightened down, I tightened down the mounting screws finger tight first that go into the AM4 bracket and then tightened down the H100i v2 finger tight using the included thumbscrews and all seems to be working well.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> New updates are coming in the future to this thread once I have more than 15 minutes to myself at a time.


any progress?


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> any progress?


I kinda started building a new rig.... but next week is the start of 11 days off so I'll make sure and get it done.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> I kinda started building a new rig.... but next week is the start of 11 days off so I'll make sure and get it done.


new parts? YEAH! What you get?


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> new parts? YEAH! What you get?


7700k and pro duo since I have two freesync monitors and no cable management since all the hardware will. Everything coming out for water cooling.
Guess it's not off topic since I'm currently using the h100i, but I have a table full of water cooling parts once the build is vetted and I have time!


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> 7700k and pro duo since I have two freesync monitors and no cable management since all the hardware will. Everything coming out for water cooling.
> Guess it's not off topic since I'm currently using the h100i, but I have a table full of water cooling parts once the build is vetted and I have time!


nice build. had to stand on my head to see it all lol


----------



## jameyscott

Thanks! Can't wait to get it all together. I'll hopefully do a build log for those interested. Early next week is when I've scheduled to work on the thread. Even my off time is still booked to the max.


----------



## mistershan

I have a

Corsair AX1200I Digital ATX PSU and a Corsair Hydro H105i Liquid Cool on Windows 10 64bit...

I have been having random shut down and restart crashes and I was told to download Corsair Link to monitor my PSU and Water Cooler, but when I installed Corsair Link my PSU nor the Liquid Cooler show up. Everything else in my system from the video cards to processor do but not the Corsair products. Very strange for Corsair software.

When I go to Options > Devices it is totally blank. When I go to Graphing > Configure they don't show up there either. It only allows me to check on or off all the other parts in my system. Please help guys. Thanks in advance.


----------



## grillinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistershan*
> 
> I have a
> 
> Corsair AX1200I Digital ATX PSU and a Corsair Hydro H105i Liquid Cool on Windows 10 64bit...
> 
> I have been having random shut down and restart crashes and I was told to download Corsair Link to monitor my PSU and Water Cooler, but when I installed Corsair Link my PSU nor the Liquid Cooler show up. Everything else in my system from the video cards to processor do but not the Corsair products. Very strange for Corsair software.
> 
> When I go to Options > Devices it is totally blank. When I go to Graphing > Configure they don't show up there either. It only allows me to check on or off all the other parts in my system. Please help guys. Thanks in advance.


I'm not very familiar with the software but doesn't it need some hardware to monitor your PSU?

http://www.corsair.com/en-us/corsair-commander-mini

So it looks like you need this thingy.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grillinman*
> 
> I'm not very familiar with the software but doesn't it need some hardware to monitor your PSU?
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/en-us/corsair-commander-mini
> 
> So it looks like you need this thingy.


Nope that's not necessary. Both devices require a separate USB 2.0 headers as each device requires one.

Also there is no h105i if you have the h105 you don't have Corsair link connectivity.


----------



## grillinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Nope that's not necessary. Both devices require a separate USB 2.0 headers as each device requires one.
> 
> Also there is no h105i if you have the h105 you don't have Corsair link connectivity.


Cool!

I had no idea this product even existed.Neat idea for sure.


----------



## Martin778

Guys, I've mounted a H115i on my SR-2, alongside a Tuniq Tower 120 Extreme with a Gentle Typhoon inside and I'm seeing 0.0% performance difference between the two. They perform just the same so far.
The H115i has a standard CoolerMaster TIM and the Tuniq has Kryonaut but that surely wouldn't be the problem, would it?

By the way, is using the Corsair Link really mandatory? The mini USB cable is so unwieldly and makes the H115's a difficult fit on the EVGA board.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martin778*
> 
> Guys, I've mounted a H115i on my SR-2, alongside a Tuniq Tower 120 Extreme with a Gentle Typhoon inside and I'm seeing 0.0% performance difference between the two. They perform just the same so far.
> The H115i has a standard CoolerMaster TIM and the Tuniq has Kryonaut but that surely wouldn't be the problem, would it?
> 
> By the way, is using the Corsair Link really mandatory? The mini USB cable is so unwieldly and makes the H115's a difficult fit on the EVGA board.


It shouldn't really matter what TIM you use.. whatever you have available should do the trick









The Corsair Link Software is not really mandatory. You always have the option to connect the rad fans to the mobo fan header to have control. That said, Corsair Link will allow to have more options in terms of fan curves and such. It'll also let you change the pump's LED color and pump speed.


----------



## Martin778

Hi Joseph,

I changed my TIM to Gelid GC Extreme and changed the fan placement. So far the temps are very nice, beating the Tuniq by around 12-15*C.
The second Tuniq was removed today and now I run 2x H115i's in my 900D.


----------



## s1rrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martin778*
> 
> By the way, is using the Corsair Link really mandatory? The mini USB cable is so unwieldly and makes the H115's a difficult fit on the EVGA board.


Just use the Corsair Link USB cable to install the software and change your pump speed from default (balanced) ... to max pump speed ... be sure to save the setting to your pumps internal memory in the Corsair Link software ... when done you can remove the cable and software and your pump speed will stay at max ...

FYI ..


----------



## Martin778

Great, that's what I need! Using both Corsair Link cables I lose my front panel USB headers.
Will the pump / control unit also remember the backlight color?


----------



## ussoldier_1984

Trying to look through this thread, Has anyone used their 110i GT on an am4 yet?


----------



## NFleck

I just upgraded my computer from AM3+ to LGA 1151, and realized at the very last minute that I had every single screw and accessory for every component I've ever bought except the Intel bracket for the Corsair H100 I intended to use.

I did some research and found you can buy a replacement pack, but it will be over $50 after shipping, and at that point I may as well buy a new one. I checked briefly on ebay canada, and the shipping is ~ $20 and up, so this option really isn't feasible as I could grab a 360mm rad aio for not much more..
I believe the Intel bracket from either the H60, H80, or H100 are compatible with mine, but none of the round versions, or the newer i series will work. This one is two brackets that screw into the side of the cpu block as shown in the attached images. I'm open to making a custom mounting solution if possible, but at this point I'm thinking I'm going to have to buy a new one.

Has anyone ever rigged up a ziptie method with the 1151 socket and an h100? I'm thinking if I use the amd 'arms', I could possibly make a mount that could work with the intel socket. Also have two other aio coolers that are 120mm rad, but the mounting brackets aren't much help in this situation unless their respective backplates might help.

I've posted ads on my local buy & sell site (Kijiji), and with any luck someone will have one to spare. But just wondering if anyone here has any experience with this situation.


----------



## Mergatroid

Lol

I just sent a friend a complete H100. He has an AMD, and the cooler he uses did not require the mounting bracket that came with the board, so he threw it away. Now he can't use the H100.

He has ended up ordering on from China for $3 and free shipping, Summer will almost be over by the time it gets here....


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFleck*
> 
> I just upgraded my computer from AM3+ to LGA 1151, and realized at the very last minute that I had every single screw and accessory for every component I've ever bought except the Intel bracket for the Corsair H100 I intended to use.
> 
> I did some research and found you can buy a replacement pack, but it will be over $50 after shipping, and at that point I may as well buy a new one. I checked briefly on ebay canada, and the shipping is ~ $20 and up, so this option really isn't feasible as I could grab a 360mm rad aio for not much more..
> I believe the Intel bracket from either the H60, H80, or H100 are compatible with mine, but none of the round versions, or the newer i series will work. This one is two brackets that screw into the side of the cpu block as shown in the attached images. I'm open to making a custom mounting solution if possible, but at this point I'm thinking I'm going to have to buy a new one.
> 
> Has anyone ever rigged up a ziptie method with the 1151 socket and an h100? I'm thinking if I use the amd 'arms', I could possibly make a mount that could work with the intel socket. Also have two other aio coolers that are 120mm rad, but the mounting brackets aren't much help in this situation unless their respective backplates might help.
> 
> I've posted ads on my local buy & sell site (Kijiji), and with any luck someone will have one to spare. But just wondering if anyone here has any experience with this situation.


Ouch man! That sucks! ALWAYYYSSSS keep every acc in the box haha, I'd recommend sourcing a plate on ebay or something. I would imagine zip ties would lead to sadness due to not securing it in place as effectively as a plate would.


----------



## NFleck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NFleck*
> 
> I just upgraded my computer from AM3+ to LGA 1151, and realized at the very last minute that I had every single screw and accessory for every component I've ever bought except the Intel bracket for the Corsair H100 I intended to use.
> 
> I did some research and found you can buy a replacement pack, but it will be over $50 after shipping, and at that point I may as well buy a new one. I checked briefly on ebay canada, and the shipping is ~ $20 and up, so this option really isn't feasible as I could grab a 360mm rad aio for not much more..
> I believe the Intel bracket from either the H60, H80, or H100 are compatible with mine, but none of the round versions, or the newer i series will work. This one is two brackets that screw into the side of the cpu block as shown in the attached images. I'm open to making a custom mounting solution if possible, but at this point I'm thinking I'm going to have to buy a new one.
> 
> Has anyone ever rigged up a ziptie method with the 1151 socket and an h100? I'm thinking if I use the amd 'arms', I could possibly make a mount that could work with the intel socket. Also have two other aio coolers that are 120mm rad, but the mounting brackets aren't much help in this situation unless their respective backplates might help.
> 
> I've posted ads on my local buy & sell site (Kijiji), and with any luck someone will have one to spare. But just wondering if anyone here has any experience with this situation.
> 
> 
> 
> Ouch man! That sucks! ALWAYYYSSSS keep every acc in the box haha, I'd recommend sourcing a plate on ebay or something. I would imagine zip ties would lead to sadness due to not securing it in place as effectively as a plate would.
Click to expand...

I do.. That's the messed up thing. I have everything from every part I've ever bought as I don't sell my old stuff. The only thing I'm missing are those two stupid plastic arms that screw in the side of the block. I only have the amd ones. I figured the zip tie thing might not work. I've don't it on a gpu, but cpu is a bit different. Need those screws. Lol.

Anyone else have any experience with this? Also thought of another option. Sell this to someone on the amd platform and buy a new aio.


----------



## ussoldier_1984

on corsair link with an asus rog crosshair VI hero which temp is the cpu temp? and is it the socket temp or actual cpu temp? MB 1 MB 2 or MB 3

Another question. I have the hydro 110i gt. On the crosshair VI where should I connect the pump? the single wire that normally connects to cpu fan. I have a connector that says water pump. I know this only monitors rpm and is controlled by corsair link but should I connect it to the AIO pump or the CPU Fan connector on the board?


----------



## stephenn82

Trying ro add myself to any list resulted in this.


----------



## Firann

Started my new build today which includes an r7 1700, crosshair vi mobo and h100i v2. I will be using the 540 air case. Up until now on my sig rig i had 2 x140mm front intakes, 1x140 back and 2x140 top as exhaust.

I am tying to figure out where to place the rad.

1. Top rad
a. Front intake, top and back exhaust
b. Front and back intake, top exhaust
c. Front exhaust, top and back intake
d. Front and top intake, back exhaust

2. Front rad
a. Front intake, top and back exhaust
b. Front and top intake, back exhaust

Whats the best way to go about this? Any better suggestions?


----------



## Mergatroid

It really depends on your case. One of those methods might work better than the others in your particular case.

On my Corsair 760t I am using front intake with my rad up top, exhausting. Works really well in my case.


----------



## Firann

I ended up with top intake (push), front intake and a single rear exhaust. Front intake cools rest of pc while the rad has its own "fresh" air.


----------



## stephenn82

I noticed some dust building up in my case. I have a sister design, the air 740. Current setup is pretty much stock with the two af140's doing front intake, rear af140 exhausting, and the top sp140l's exhausting out of my case through radiator. It creates a negative pressure setup. Maybe i will switch the rear or top fans orientation to test this. If my rad fans were intakes, it would possibly cool the top plate of gpu.


----------



## Mergatroid

Just fyi, most cases don't have a dust filter up top. If you make your rad intake, you might notice a dust issue again, especially inside the rad. Maybe look around for a filter that will fit, or even use two of those magnetic 120mm filters on the top.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Just fyi, most cases don't have a dust filter up top. If you make your rad intake, you might notice a dust issue again, especially inside the rad. Maybe look around for a filter that will fit, or even use two of those magnetic 120mm filters on the top.


My case has a magnetic filter cover up top


----------



## Mergatroid

Awesome. You're laughing.....


----------



## stephenn82

that my case has a filter up top? Nope...im just glad that I have the ability to swap the fans around. I may do it just for testing purposes...even though Jay and Kyle and Paul have all done it...but it wasnt MY pc that they tested with right? And it isnt me that will ever be a big and famous youtube star...but I could share my findings on here, right?


----------



## NorKris

Hi

How hard would it be to disconnect a rad from a AIO, use the rad and connect it to another AIO, using the stock tubes and not using a res?


----------



## Cyb3r

@norkris Probably not too hard providing you got a good wrench and a good set of boxcutters and i'm not talking the throwaway crap i mean the proper ones lol and ofc a good deal of patience, but i wouldn't recommend doing it it's probably better to just buy another rad since those aio's come with a pump preinstalled and while they do a good enough job for aio purposes i wouldn't recommend dual rads on them.

Lately i've got a weird issue with my H110i GTX that i've been trying to figure out even under minimal load or no load at all the water delta and cpu temps rise pretty harshly (about 15°c over room temp almost) the pump is still working since going from silent mode to performance mode gives about a 10°c drop in temperature however i'm wondering if there is any blockage going on cause before my I7 5960x didn't heat up this badly (i'm running stock atm due to the issue, i'm seeying 66°c as cpu package temp when there's mild to heavy load on the cpu)

changes i've allready made is dump the stock fans and swap em for ML140's and while that did help a bit a 3°c drop isn't a huge difference also a year ago i wasn't forced to keep the case roof open compared to now where even under normal workload i'm forced to open the roof smoke stacks of my deep silence 6


----------



## NorKris

somthing stuck in there maybe


----------



## stephenn82

h115i is same as 110 GT, right?


----------



## Gen Patton

Hello I am new to Overclock and to bulding a PC. I am still buying parts for Motoko, I bought a Cosair H100i so could I still be a part?


----------



## Gen Patton

I have a Rosewell stryker case it has a dust filter on top and the bottom. I can install a 240mm rad in the front or top. also I can install 120/140 fans
on the top or front of my case.
 I will be changing out the fans for Cosair fans.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> Hi
> 
> How hard would it be to disconnect a rad from a AIO, use the rad and connect it to another AIO, using the stock tubes and not using a res?


If you are going to be using both rads from both AIO coolers, you may have to make sure the flow rate of the pump can handle that volume. I have seen people add a res to an AIO so it will most likely be OK, but you might want to look into it.


----------



## stephenn82

/\ /\ what he said /\ /\


----------



## mAs81

Silly question,but is it possible to use the intel bracket from a h110 on a h75?

When I changed the thermal paste on my cpu,I noticed afterwards that the standoffs for the pump would wiggle & turn on the backplate when i tried to screw the pump with the thumbscrews..It's on,but not very tight..

So since my brother's gone Ryzen,and he has the backplate for the h110 , I'm thinking of giving it a go...


----------



## Cyb3r

yeah it highly depends on which rads you would connect

and not sure if somethings stuck in the h110i GTX trying to figure it out before i need to do an rma (i'd prefer not if possible lol)

bracket should be compatible they're used for the mobo / dependant on cpu shouldn't matter for the rad but dunno for sure for corsair i know zalman used to do it that way


----------



## NorKris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> If you are going to be using both rads from both AIO coolers, you may have to make sure the flow rate of the pump can handle that volume. I have seen people add a res to an AIO so it will most likely be OK, but you might want to look into it.


thx wil do.. i have a h80i and h105 pump to test with


----------



## TahoeDust

I recently upgraded my first gen Corsair H100 to a new H115i. Originally unhappy with the noise level of my H100 I replaced them with 4 Gentle Typhoon AP-15s. This was a killer quite setup. I moved into a new case and had room for a 280mm so I decided to see how the H115i did. In stock form, with the two Corsair SP140L PWM fans, the H115i was MUCH louder than my H100 with the GT AP-15s. Howver, it did almost match the performance of the upgraded push/pull H100. After an hour running my 2700k @ 4.9GHz in Prime95 "small fft" it held it to 84* max temp. The H100 holds it to 83*. Wanting to quite the H115i I ordered 4 Noiseblocker eLoop B14-PS PWM fans. They are 29mm thick compared to the usual 25mm. This ment I needed longer mounting crews, that were kind of a pain to find in black. With the new fans mounted on the H115i, it was much quiter. I don't think it it quite as quiet as the FT AP-15s on the H100, but close. However, it did perform 5* better. It held my CPU to 78*. The ability to control the system by software is also a nice upgrade. Overall, I'm very happy.

Plus it just looks pretty beastly...


----------



## Mgrandy

i personally love my h100 ,recon. given its a bit old now and probs well past its sell by date. it performed well until now amd a10 6800k kept it at a nice 76deg stable with a 6.3 oc but on this new fx9370 its erm about as much used as a chocolate tea pot ok ok so at usual operating load it copes well running no more than 51-57 deg soon as i prime 95 it. on full load after 15m it just steady climbs and climbs well past the 85 deg mark which i have to switch off after 30mins or there about.

lesson on a 125w cpu this does more than fine the h100 on a 220w cpu erm no just no. given its a good few years old though ive more than had my moneys worth and who knows could be pump finally failing


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TahoeDust*
> 
> I recently upgraded my first gen Corsair H100 to a new H115i. Originally unhappy with the noise level of my H100 I replaced them with 4 Gentle Typhoon AP-15s. This was a killer quite setup. I moved into a new case and had room for a 280mm so I decided to see how the H115i did. In stock form, with the two Corsair SP140L PWM fans, the H115i was MUCH louder than my H100 with the GT AP-15s. Howver, it did almost match the performance of the upgraded push/pull H100. After an hour running my 2700k @ 4.9GHz in Prime95 "small fft" it held it to 84* max temp. The H100 holds it to 83*. Wanting to quite the H115i I ordered 4 Noiseblocker eLoop B14-PS PWM fans. They are 29mm thick compared to the usual 25mm. This ment I needed longer mounting crews, that were kind of a pain to find in black. With the new fans mounted on the H115i, it was much quiter. I don't think it it quite as quiet as the FT AP-15s on the H100, but close. However, it did perform 5* better. It held my CPU to 78*. The ability to control the system by software is also a nice upgrade. Overall, I'm very happy.
> 
> Plus it just looks pretty beastly...


that is sick! but, sadly...they dont have h115i listed in the spreadsheet. I have asked for 2 months.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> that is sick! but, sadly...they dont have h115i listed in the spreadsheet. I have asked for 2 months.


Updated D: I honestly just forgot between work, life, and an emergency every other week. Eventually I'll get around to updating the OP and other things.


----------



## roberta507

Temps started to spike on the cpu during benching with new 1080Ti FTW
Dialed in GPU was O/Cing CPU as usual I hit 80+ degrees
Then the flood of what if's starts to go thru my mind
The easiest fix was the right one reapply new thermal paste I was sitting on
Temps dropped 8-10 degrees right off the max
Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut works great


----------



## stephenn82

When possible, can the first 6700k submission be removed as I do not have a 110iGT, just a 115i? Thanks!


----------



## Zaen

Need some advice, all opinions are welcome.

Going to, finally, re-install my H100i this weekend or so and going to take the opportunity to install 2 more fans on the radiator for a push pull but i have some doubts on how to best connect the fans.

Ofc i'm going to have to use the cpu_fan header to connect the pump/mobo fan DC cable for the stock fans as normal but how should i connect the other 2 fans? a 2-way splitter on the secondary cpu header or should i just use the main cpu_fan header and use a 4-way splitter to connect all the fans to the pumps/fan PWM cable?


----------



## stephenn82

it has been proven that for our systems a push pull is not worth the cost of fans, work, and it only nets 1 or 2 degrees. just moving it to a better spot in your case does this.

If you insist on getting the absolute cooling potential, you could get a 2 way for each setup, and have to tune that port along with the CPU port. and tuck away two wires.

if the 4 way splitter path, you can tuck one wire, and that one wire will rule them all. Just my penceworth.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> it has been proven that for our systems a push pull is not worth the cost of fans, work, and it only nets 1 or 2 degrees. just moving it to a better spot in your case does this.
> 
> If you insist on getting the absolute cooling potential, you could get a 2 way for each setup, and have to tune that port along with the CPU port. and tuck away two wires.
> 
> if the 4 way splitter path, you can tuck one wire, and that one wire will rule them all. Just my penceworth.


Although it can be different depending on your case and where your radiator is mounted, I agree.

I was using an H100 with push pull in a Corsair 600T case. It took some modding and time to get push/pull to fit and I was all proud.

Then I was cleaning out the case one day and got fed up with all the wires. I installed it back in the case with just two fans in push/exhaust. I checked the temps under load I was barely getting a 1c difference.

I'm using a Thermaltake 360 rad now, and I'm not bothering with push/pull for such thin rads anymore. If I had a thicker rad I would consider it, but on a thin rad it really doesn't make much difference.


----------



## NorKris

does any1 know what Gen the pump in the H105 is?


----------



## Zaen

Thx for the input @stephenn82

My CPU OC's poorly and i need a fair amount of Vcore to keep it stable @4.6 but that is proving to be too much for the H100i this summer, don't know why but that's why i'm cleaning it thoroughly and will see if it holds or not, the extra -1 or 2ºc probably would be -3 or 4ºc in my case since it usually runs above 70ºc while in games and not mentioning [email protected] temps which were scaring me this time.

In the meanwhile i found lower OC's with lower Vcore, just in case, and currently on air cooling with one such OC but [email protected] is still somewhat prohibitive due to temps.

As to position i'm thinking of revising that as well. Previous setup had too much exhaust and not enough intake at start, i balanced it by reverting the back fan to intake and only top as exhaust.

My case is a bit long and i don't know if i'm able to put the H100i in the front of the case as intake, has been at the top front as exhaust. This has been one of the issues i've been having, air flow/circulation, air intake/exhaust and positive/negative case pressure. Case setup allows for only 1x200mm or 2x140mm in the front as intake, i can use another 140mm in the bottom but that is blocked by PSU cover ( that i'm thinking to either drill holes or just cut it), adding nothing to air circulation just case pressure, leaving 1x140mm at the back and up to 3x140mm at the top as exhaust. The case is clearly unbalanced in this department, imo, maybe more directed for custom loops watercooling.

In any case if i want positive pressures in case, cooler air coming in the case then coming out i only have one good option, as far as i can tell , i may be wrong. One option would be to keep top, 2x120mm ( radiator) and 1x140mm as exhaust and all others (front, back and bottom) as intake, 1x200mm and 2x140mm.
If i can manage to put the radiator in the front, switching it with the 200mm fan, i would have a few degrees lower temps as i would set it as a intake in that position but the rest of the fans would have to be the same with an added twist that if i use the 200mm at the top i won't fit any others there making the setup 2x120mm and 2x140mm intake (front, bottom and back) and only the 200mm as exhaust (top).

Not sure which is worse


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> Thx for the input @stephenn82
> 
> My CPU OC's poorly and i need a fair amount of Vcore to keep it stable @4.6 but that is proving to be too much for the H100i this summer, don't know why but that's why i'm cleaning it thoroughly and will see if it holds or not, the extra -1 or 2ºc probably would be -3 or 4ºc in my case since it usually runs above 70ºc while in games and not mentioning [email protected] temps which were scaring me this time.
> 
> In the meanwhile i found lower OC's with lower Vcore, just in case, and currently on air cooling with one such OC but [email protected] is still somewhat prohibitive due to temps.
> 
> As to position i'm thinking of revising that as well. Previous setup had too much exhaust and not enough intake at start, i balanced it by reverting the back fan to intake and only top as exhaust.
> 
> My case is a bit long and i don't know if i'm able to put the H100i in the front of the case as intake, has been at the top front as exhaust. This has been one of the issues i've been having, air flow/circulation, air intake/exhaust and positive/negative case pressure. Case setup allows for only 1x200mm or 2x140mm in the front as intake, i can use another 140mm in the bottom but that is blocked by PSU cover ( that i'm thinking to either drill holes or just cut it), adding nothing to air circulation just case pressure, leaving 1x140mm at the back and up to 3x140mm at the top as exhaust. The case is clearly unbalanced in this department, imo, maybe more directed for custom loops watercooling.
> 
> In any case if i want positive pressures in case, cooler air coming in the case then coming out i only have one good option, as far as i can tell , i may be wrong. One option would be to keep top, 2x120mm ( radiator) and 1x140mm as exhaust and all others (front, back and bottom) as intake, 1x200mm and 2x140mm.
> If i can manage to put the radiator in the front, switching it with the 200mm fan, i would have a few degrees lower temps as i would set it as a intake in that position but the rest of the fans would have to be the same with an added twist that if i use the 200mm at the top i won't fit any others there making the setup 2x120mm and 2x140mm intake (front, bottom and back) and only the 200mm as exhaust (top).
> 
> Not sure which is worse


What CPU are you using? Have you considered delidding? I have a Haswell 4770k, and delidding dropped 15c off of my cpu temps. Might be worth considering.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> What CPU are you using? Have you considered delidding? I have a Haswell 4770k, and delidding dropped 15c off of my cpu temps. Might be worth considering.


his rigbuildier shows 6600k.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> Thx for the input @stephenn82
> 
> My CPU OC's poorly and i need a fair amount of Vcore to keep it stable @4.6 but that is proving to be too much for the H100i this summer, don't know why but that's why i'm cleaning it thoroughly and will see if it holds or not, the extra -1 or 2ºc probably would be -3 or 4ºc in my case since it usually runs above 70ºc while in games and not mentioning [email protected] temps which were scaring me this time.
> 
> In the meanwhile i found lower OC's with lower Vcore, just in case, and currently on air cooling with one such OC but [email protected] is still somewhat prohibitive due to temps.
> 
> As to position i'm thinking of revising that as well. Previous setup had too much exhaust and not enough intake at start, i balanced it by reverting the back fan to intake and only top as exhaust.
> 
> My case is a bit long and i don't know if i'm able to put the H100i in the front of the case as intake, has been at the top front as exhaust. This has been one of the issues i've been having, air flow/circulation, air intake/exhaust and positive/negative case pressure. Case setup allows for only 1x200mm or 2x140mm in the front as intake, i can use another 140mm in the bottom but that is blocked by PSU cover ( that i'm thinking to either drill holes or just cut it), adding nothing to air circulation just case pressure, leaving 1x140mm at the back and up to 3x140mm at the top as exhaust. The case is clearly unbalanced in this department, imo, maybe more directed for custom loops watercooling.
> 
> In any case if i want positive pressures in case, cooler air coming in the case then coming out i only have one good option, as far as i can tell , i may be wrong. One option would be to keep top, 2x120mm ( radiator) and 1x140mm as exhaust and all others (front, back and bottom) as intake, 1x200mm and 2x140mm.
> If i can manage to put the radiator in the front, switching it with the 200mm fan, i would have a few degrees lower temps as i would set it as a intake in that position but the rest of the fans would have to be the same with an added twist that if i use the 200mm at the top i won't fit any others there making the setup 2x120mm and 2x140mm intake (front, bottom and back) and only the 200mm as exhaust (top).
> 
> Not sure which is worse


I wouldnt use that rear fan as an intake. they usually flow so little and run quiet and should be kept as an exhaust fan.

If you can change the front 200mm fan to put in the top, and mount that radiator as an intake setup, that would be beneficial, as it is getting the coolest air possible over those fins. Just make sure to clean that filtered front regularly!

Normal heat flows upward, so the large, slow moving 200mm will help exhaust the air, but not to the point where it creates a negative pressure.

I am getting ready to do something similar with my Air 740 case, but need more y splitters for PWM. I new I should have grabbed two of them when I got the ML240 dual pack. Oh well. Better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it, right?

Just take a weekend day and set up your fans, test temps, fold, etc, and move them all around to different orientation. I think the best scenario is to have bottom intake, front radiator intake, and the 200mm top and 140 back as exhaust.


----------



## stephenn82

@Zaen I dont think the 200mm will be mountable on top. If so, Dmitri would have covered it...or one would hope.

https://youtu.be/cBhmn21ylkc

This is a nice case...but looks to be slightly limited for max cooling. Do you have a set of 120's or 140's to fit in top, and just dont use the 200mm anymore?


----------



## BlockLike

Just upgraded from the H80i to the H115i and very pleased with it's performance.

The H80i was doing fine in the cold drafty flat I was living in, but the new house has much better insulation and therefore, noticeably warmer.

The H115i is doing a great job of keeping my OC at decent temps in the wave of warm weather we're getting at the moment.

Happy purchase


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> his rigbuildier shows 6600k.
> I wouldnt use that rear fan as an intake. they usually flow so little and run quiet and should be kept as an exhaust fan.
> 
> If you can change the front 200mm fan to put in the top, and mount that radiator as an intake setup, that would be beneficial, as it is getting the coolest air possible over those fins. Just make sure to clean that filtered front regularly!
> 
> Normal heat flows upward, so the large, slow moving 200mm will help exhaust the air, but not to the point where it creates a negative pressure.
> 
> I am getting ready to do something similar with my Air 740 case, but need more y splitters for PWM. I new I should have grabbed two of them when I got the ML240 dual pack. Oh well. Better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it, right?
> 
> Just take a weekend day and set up your fans, test temps, fold, etc, and move them all around to different orientation. I think the best scenario is to have bottom intake, front radiator intake, and the 200mm top and 140 back as exhaust.


according to Corsair George, as stated earlier in this thread, the force causing warm air to rise in a computer case is so weak as compared to the force of the fans as to be unimportant in comparison.

Something mentioned by him around the same time is that, very often air flow can be decided soon by what type of video card you are using, the blower style that exhausts out the back of the case, or the type using large fans that exhausts inside the case.
Good advice to try different setups and check the temps.

Corsair actually tested a build where the top and rear were intake and the front was the exhaust, with the rad in the top. This was using a video card that exhausts inside the case. They said it worked quite well. I haven't tried that one myself though.
Another consideration for me is dust. I personally wouldn't make any location an intake unless it had a dust filter. Especially if the case is in a location prone to dust.


----------



## Pings

It's been a while and used to be a member back in the H50 days. Here is my H100i V2 with my Parvum ITX Veer 1.0.


----------



## AlbertoBarbosa

Guys, can i fit a H115i or even a H100i on the right top slot of the Fractal Design Node 804?


----------



## Pings

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlbertoBarbosa*
> 
> Guys, can i fit a H115i or even a H100i on the right top slot of the Fractal Design Node 804?


Hope this helps


----------



## AlbertoBarbosa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pings*
> 
> Hope this helps


Thank you, but i want to place it on top and on the right chamber, that is the PSU side.


----------



## Pings

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlbertoBarbosa*
> 
> Thank you, but i want to place it on top and on the right chamber, that is the PSU side.


OK, I see what you are talking about you MIGHT be able to do that, MIGHT.

EDIT: I found these images so yes you can.




Here is another build.


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> @Zaen I dont think the 200mm will be mountable on top. If so, Dmitri would have covered it...or one would hope.
> 
> https://youtu.be/cBhmn21ylkc
> 
> This is a nice case...but looks to be slightly limited for max cooling. Do you have a set of 120's or 140's to fit in top, and just dont use the 200mm anymore?


Case manual says it should fit, at least Phantek's own model 200mm fan that came with the case. I admit i didn't get to try it.

All my plans went up into smoke. Sadly the "ghost" of "fans not spooling up with CPU temp" returned as soon as i re-installed the 100H. Even using corsair link it stays put at whatever that setting says is the fan speed and wont budge much either way, custom curve was the worst









So i'm still on air until i have this figured out.

Anyway i tried a few different setups with the 100H and my case, Enthoo pro, and the radiator with 1 set of fans won't fit the space i have there unless i remove all the HDD bays and their stands, i need at least one of those HDD cages. So i put the radiator on top as intake, as i have filters at bottom, front and top i was going to only use the back 140mm as exhaust.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> Case manual says it should fit, at least Phantek's own model 200mm fan that came with the case. I admit i didn't get to try it.
> 
> All my plans went up into smoke. Sadly the "ghost" of "fans not spooling up with CPU temp" returned as soon as i re-installed the 100H. Even using corsair link it stays put at whatever that setting says is the fan speed and wont budge much either way, custom curve was the worst
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So i'm still on air until i have this figured out.
> 
> Anyway i tried a few different setups with the 100H and my case, Enthoo pro, and the radiator with 1 set of fans won't fit the space i have there unless i remove all the HDD bays and their stands, i need at least one of those HDD cages. So i put the radiator on top as intake, as i have filters at bottom, front and top i was going to only use the back 140mm as exhaust.


I dont think having all those fans as intake and only one exhaust is an optimal setup. Lets say each fan on average, flows 85cfm. You would have 5 (guessing here) blowing into the case over 425 cfm into the case, and only 85cfm out, at best. I would have the radiator exhast as well to even things up. The flow wont be as high as rating, as it needs to push through the radiator.

That is strange that the fans wont go over 300 rpm. even on high and manual. Is the USB cable plugged in and registering? My cable was a little wobbly at times and had to be wiggled to get right to always see the device. I couldnt control the fans or pump at all, and it ran at default built in speeds. try reseating the USB cable. unplug it and let it sit when pc is on. the system will default to whatever is programmed into the bios. See how it runs. If it improves, you mave have a software problem. If it doesnt change at all, slow speeds, no ramping, you may have a defective unit.


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> I dont think having all those fans as intake and only one exhaust is an optimal setup. Lets say each fan on average, flows 85cfm. You would have 5 (guessing here) blowing into the case over 425 cfm into the case, and only 85cfm out, at best. I would have the radiator exhast as well to even things up. The flow wont be as high as rating, as it needs to push through the radiator.
> 
> That is strange that the fans wont go over 300 rpm. even on high and manual. Is the USB cable plugged in and registering? My cable was a little wobbly at times and had to be wiggled to get right to always see the device. I couldnt control the fans or pump at all, and it ran at default built in speeds. try reseating the USB cable. unplug it and let it sit when pc is on. the system will default to whatever is programmed into the bios. See how it runs. If it improves, you mave have a software problem. If it doesn't change at all, slow speeds, no ramping, you may have a defective unit.


USB dongle seemed well fixed... Probably only next weekend i will have the time and patience to remove the air cooler and re-install the H100i, will try once more. Sad if this unit only lasted a little more then 1 1/2 years, that would put my confidence in watercooling AIO down quite a bit.

The case fans won't ever be optimal imo until i'm able to remove the HDD cages and stand, like in the canuk's vid you posted showed, and use the bottom as intake with the front and having rear and top as exhaust. Otherwise i'm always unbalanced. The PSU cover is something one day i either cut off some of it or i drill it to give some flow to the bottom fan.

I'm thinking of getting something that adapts to the 5,25" bay's so i can use that space as HDD cages, freeing the use of the actual cages and stand allowing the use of 2x140mm, probably would use 120mm, on the bottom as intake.

Would only need to have 1 5,25" bay free for a fan controller.

Right now it's all intake and 1 exhaust plus all the wholes i have in the back of the case that never allow me to have constant positive air pressure inside the case.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> USB dongle seemed well fixed... Probably only next weekend i will have the time and patience to remove the air cooler and re-install the H100i, will try once more. Sad if this unit only lasted a little more then 1 1/2 years, that would put my confidence in watercooling AIO down quite a bit.
> 
> The case fans won't ever be optimal imo until i'm able to remove the HDD cages and stand, like in the canuk's vid you posted showed, and use the bottom as intake with the front and having rear and top as exhaust. Otherwise i'm always unbalanced. The PSU cover is something one day i either cut off some of it or i drill it to give some flow to the bottom fan.
> 
> I'm thinking of getting something that adapts to the 5,25" bay's so i can use that space as HDD cages, freeing the use of the actual cages and stand allowing the use of 2x140mm, probably would use 120mm, on the bottom as intake.
> 
> Would only need to have 1 5,25" bay free for a fan controller.
> 
> Right now it's all intake and 1 exhaust plus all the wholes i have in the back of the case that never allow me to have constant positive air pressure inside the case.


With that fan orientation, I would say you have positive pressure. It will leak out of the holes slowly as the single exhaust is already at capacity.

That is strange though, that it still would only spin at 300 rpm. Did you have the SATA power plugged in as well? It doesnt get much power to spin those fans and pump with only the mobo header. Even the 2 amp heavy duty headers wouldnt operate that much gear optimally. You can bench test these next to the PC without removing everything. USB, SATA power and have it sit on the table next to case. Better than reapplying paste to be upset and just undo all that you have done. You can even stick the fan header on an open plug to read speeds as well.


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> With that fan orientation, I would say you have positive pressure. It will leak out of the holes slowly as the single exhaust is already at capacity.
> 
> That is strange though, that it still would only spin at 300 rpm. Did you have the SATA power plugged in as well? It doesnt get much power to spin those fans and pump with only the mobo header. Even the 2 amp heavy duty headers wouldnt operate that much gear optimally. You can bench test these next to the PC without removing everything. USB, SATA power and have it sit on the table next to case. Better than reapplying paste to be upset and just undo all that you have done. You can even stick the fan header on an open plug to read speeds as well.


Not 300 rpm but 900-1k rpm in quiet, 1400-1600 rpm in balanced and 1800-2000 rpm in performance, pump is always at max performance only the fans don't spin up higher or lower rpm then those values even with a custom curve, with and without corsair link installed. BIOS fan tuning runs fine, if i run Asus AI suite and calibrate fans there it will give a constant 100% pwr cpu_fan reading even when fans are only spinning at 50% pwr in reality.

I tested the fans alone and they are fine. They change speed according to cpu temp if not connected to the AIO.

Will also have to look in to the SATA cable question, i don't really recall that.

Between getting home after work and sleeping i only have about 2-3h a night and i usually spend 2, or a little more, hours playing some relaxing, stress alleviating, fps's xD but i will try to look into what you asked, thx m8









As i was writting this i was searching for a manual, because i don't remember to see a sata connection on the cooler, and in Corsair site i found a small setup guide and this end note:

"Optional Extra Step

While the H100i GTX is designed to be as easy to use as possible, you may need to disable fan control on the CPU_FAN header in your motherboard's BIOS. Consult your motherboard's user manual for information on how."

I didn't have to do this when i did my first install of the cooler... what in the blazes does he/she mean? xD oh and also no mention of a SATA cable...


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> Not 300 rpm but 900-1k rpm in quiet, 1400-1600 rpm in balanced and 1800-2000 rpm in performance, pump is always at max performance only the fans don't spin up higher or lower rpm then those values even with a custom curve, with and without corsair link installed. BIOS fan tuning runs fine, if i run Asus AI suite and calibrate fans there it will give a constant 100% pwr cpu_fan reading even when fans are only spinning at 50% pwr in reality.
> 
> I tested the fans alone and they are fine. They change speed according to cpu temp if not connected to the AIO.
> 
> Will also have to look in to the SATA cable question, i don't really recall that.
> 
> Between getting home after work and sleeping i only have about 2-3h a night and i usually spend 2, or a little more, hours playing some relaxing, stress alleviating, fps's xD but i will try to look into what you asked, thx m8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As i was writting this i was searching for a manual, because i don't remember to see a sata connection on the cooler, and in Corsair site i found a small setup guide and this end note:
> 
> "Optional Extra Step
> 
> While the H100i GTX is designed to be as easy to use as possible, you may need to disable fan control on the CPU_FAN header in your motherboard's BIOS. Consult your motherboard's user manual for information on how."
> 
> I didn't have to do this when i did my first install of the cooler... what in the blazes does he/she mean? xD oh and also no mention of a SATA cable...


huh...dont know where that 300rpm came from...probably bleed over from another thread...too much time spent here and not enough sleep. hahahaa

Tom did a review, and didnt really show too much on the extra cables...maybe yours doesnt have a sata power? My h115i does, possibly due to the larget fans?

https://youtu.be/-fr15S2nap4


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> huh...dont know where that 300rpm came from...probably bleed over from another thread...too much time spent here and not enough sleep. hahahaa
> 
> Tom did a review, and didnt really show too much on the extra cables...maybe yours doesnt have a sata power? My h115i does, possibly due to the larget fans?
> 
> https://youtu.be/-fr15S2nap4


No mention of SATA for the H100i on PDF version of the quick start manual also, sometimes my memory fails... i'm starting to fossilize, but not this time, no SATA for the H100i.

You do probably for the bigger fans and probably more powerful pump also on the H115i.


----------



## NorKris

So i did a little modding on my H105 and Kraken x52 from NZXT. I connected them together to get a 2x 240 rad setup on a "AIO".
but im sry guys, the H105 pump did not make it, the Krake is much coolerlooking.
Here's a Picture from the testing


The temps got up to 10c cooler after the mod


----------



## rafarataneneces

How did you opened and sealed the tubes again?


----------



## NorKris

U just cut of the plastic seal-band thingy that is holding the tubes there, and pull the tubes out. after that u just take a piece of tube from the other rad and connect them together again with 2x Zipties


----------



## Zaen

Not that i do a lot of modding, but i would advice sealing over the zip ties with some heat shrink material, rubbery if possible. zip ties are no insurance against a leak from over pressure, that is now a weak spot in the system, probably the weakest link.


----------



## NorKris

Overpressure from a weak aio pump?


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorKris*
> 
> Overpressure from a weak aio pump?


Well to any system, with a weak spot, there is always the chance it can't handle the pressure, even if it seems low. All depends on the system tolerances and those are out the window when we fiddle with them. No system is invulnerable to this, even before we touch it. It just makes it more lightly.

Just saying to be careful, check for moister or any damp spots on the location you connected the hoses. if you can add another layer of protection all the better.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaen*
> 
> Not that i do a lot of modding, but i would advice sealing over the zip ties with some heat shrink material, rubbery if possible. zip ties are no insurance against a leak from over pressure, that is now a weak spot in the system, probably the weakest link.


Heat shrink would not protect the system from leaks or overpressure. Using zip ties tightened very well is much better than heat shrink. Besides, these systems are not going to be under much pressure.


----------



## Zaen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Heat shrink would not protect the system from leaks or overpressure. Using zip ties tightened very well is much better than heat shrink. Besides, these systems are not going to be under much pressure.


Just saying. Silicone rubber heat shrink can do a fair job when used as the last layer to contain any liquid that could escape. If you think the zip ties are sealing well, great. It just isn't my experience with zip ties and fluids.


----------



## alayoubi

Hi guys..

What about the new cooler corsair H45 , is it good?


----------



## BlockLike

from a quick glance at several reviews, it seems it performs well for its price but is fairly noisy


----------



## Cyrious

I have a question: does anyone know what the inrush current for the OG h50's pump is? I know running it typically draws .25a when running, but I'd like to know the startup draw just to make sure I'm not overstressing the board fan header I've got it plugged into on startup.


----------



## Gen Patton

Guys this Sunday is Motoko birthday I will be installing my H100i I will have photos to follow.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyrious*
> 
> I have a question: does anyone know what the inrush current for the OG h50's pump is? I know running it typically draws .25a when running, but I'd like to know the startup draw just to make sure I'm not overstressing the board fan header I've got it plugged into on startup.


Sorry, can't help you out there. However, I have installed dozens of water coolers in people's PCs and none of them have ever come back with a bad fan header. I would expect the draw to be less than many fans.


----------



## Gen Patton

OK guys Motoko is alive and working


----------



## Mergatroid

Quite the monster there. Cables need a little TLC.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Hi guys, I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on the H80. According to some of the reviews I've read so far and various comments on this and other similar threads, the pump tends to be on the noisy side.

Thoughts on that?

My alternative so far is the Kraken X42 but it's also $40 more than the H80. (scratch the X42 I just realized it's a 140mm rad)


----------



## nanotm

the h80 is a good bit of kit, I've had one since 2010 had the original replaced in 2012 due to fan problem and the replacement is still running several hours a day in one of my kids pc's and corsair does give you the 5 year warranty although depending on what cpu your cooling down it might be worthwhile getting one of the larger aio's

ive recently upgraded to the h115i and its much better for a higher heat chip especially when doing higher overclocking than the h80 could handle


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> the h80 is a good bit of kit, I've had one since 2010 had the original replaced in 2012 due to fan problem and the replacement is still running several hours a day in one of my kids pc's and corsair does give you the 5 year warranty although depending on what cpu your cooling down it might be worthwhile getting one of the larger aio's
> 
> ive recently upgraded to the h115i and its much better for a higher heat chip especially when doing higher overclocking than the h80 could handle


Thanks for the response. Sadly I am unable to go with anything larger than 1x 120mm due to size restrictions.


----------



## nanotm

in that case you should be aware that if you mount the radiator on the rear exhaust port space (will fit on most cases) you can mount the second fan on the outside of the case and pass the fan lead back in through an unused pci slot cover without needing to de-pin it, failing that you can de pin the fan lead pass it through one of the octagonal slots of the fan area before mounting the radiator, and then plug it into the fan split power supply lead off the pump housing.

if like my old case did yours has a bevelled area where the fan's supposed to go, your going to need to flatten or remove that deformation, personally I tried flattening using two pieces of mild steel and some bolts then ended up using a pair of snips and removing it (would of spent less time just cutting it out from the start...)

anyhow so long as you leave at least two diagonally opposing fan mounting holes it should be fine, and if you do make the cut you can always make a notch for the fan lead and save some hassle there as well.

if you don't have a spare usb 2.0 header inside the case you can also use a standard usb2.0 port on the back of the case for the corsair link to work as well (I used an old ds data lead but if you have to buy one then any mini usb data lead should do, although getting one with a right angle will make it simpler especially is space is a premium, and there available from a lot of places especially ebay /amazon)

then on first boot after the install go straight to bios, disable cool n quiet or whatever its called and set the cpu fan to manual &100% /max /100%/pwm (depending on what option your mobo lists) because the pump requires a static 12v supply, and then you shouldn't really hear it after the first few seconds or so

once its installed you will notice the noise with corsair link running that it moves out of the default profile to something else, personally I put mine in performance mode and left it to automatic and the pump was only noticeable when it was doing 100% speed for about an hour as it knocked the bubbles back to the radiator... the h115 was about the same in that respect

oh and if you don't already have any buy some non conductive thermal paste before you go fit it, I personally use noctua nt-h1 because it takes a time or two of trying ot get the block seated properly on the cpu, and you cant check to see if its got good fit or not if you don't have any paste handy to apply, it also helps if you can put a pea sized blob in the middle of the cpu and test for good even pressure and contact with the water block which you cant do with the pad....

even though I take mine off every 6 months dust through the vrm's on cleaning day I often don't get it fitted back just right on the first try either ....


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> in that case you should be aware that if you mount the radiator on the rear exhaust port space (will fit on most cases) you can mount the second fan on the outside of the case and pass the fan lead back in through an unused pci slot cover without needing to de-pin it, failing that you can de pin the fan lead pass it through one of the octagonal slots of the fan area before mounting the radiator, and then plug it into the fan split power supply lead off the pump housing.
> 
> if like my old case did yours has a bevelled area where the fan's supposed to go, your going to need to flatten or remove that deformation, personally I tried flattening using two pieces of mild steel and some bolts then ended up using a pair of snips and removing it (would of spent less time just cutting it out from the start...)
> 
> anyhow so long as you leave at least two diagonally opposing fan mounting holes it should be fine, and if you do make the cut you can always make a notch for the fan lead and save some hassle there as well.
> 
> if you don't have a spare usb 2.0 header inside the case you can also use a standard usb2.0 port on the back of the case for the corsair link to work as well (I used an old ds data lead but if you have to buy one then any mini usb data lead should do, although getting one with a right angle will make it simpler especially is space is a premium, and there available from a lot of places especially ebay /amazon)
> 
> then on first boot after the install go straight to bios, disable cool n quiet or whatever its called and set the cpu fan to manual &100% /max /100%/pwm (depending on what option your mobo lists) because the pump requires a static 12v supply, and then you shouldn't really hear it after the first few seconds or so
> 
> once its installed you will notice the noise with corsair link running that it moves out of the default profile to something else, personally I put mine in performance mode and left it to automatic and the pump was only noticeable when it was doing 100% speed for about an hour as it knocked the bubbles back to the radiator... the h115 was about the same in that respect
> 
> oh and if you don't already have any buy some non conductive thermal paste before you go fit it, I personally use noctua nt-h1 because it takes a time or two of trying ot get the block seated properly on the cpu, and you cant check to see if its got good fit or not if you don't have any paste handy to apply, it also helps if you can put a pea sized blob in the middle of the cpu and test for good even pressure and contact with the water block which you cant do with the pad....
> 
> even though I take mine off every 6 months dust through the vrm's on cleaning day I often don't get it fitted back just right on the first try either ....


On my current setup (Antec Kuhler 920) I have the radiator fan controlled by the Mobo CPU fan header rather than the software itself. I only use the software to monitor the pump still works, but everything is controlled by the motherboard BIOS. The installation issues you describe (not being able to tell how evenly or tight the coldplate is) are a reason I'd prefer to not go with any model that has this particular issue as I have ruined two boards by tightening just a bit too much. It still seems very loose (able to wiggle it a bit), however tigheting it further risks borking the motherboard.


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> On my current setup (Antec Kuhler 920) I have the radiator fan controlled by the Mobo CPU fan header rather than the software itself. I only use the software to monitor the pump still works, but everything is controlled by the motherboard BIOS. The installation issues you describe (not being able to tell how evenly or tight the coldplate is) are a reason I'd prefer to not go with any model that has this particular issue as I have ruined two boards by tightening just a bit too much. It still seems very loose (able to wiggle it a bit), however tightening it further risks borking the motherboard.


the pumps units on AIO coolers require a static 12v supply to run and normally have a default setting that's similar to the quiet setting although often with a different noise profile, and the software just gives you the option to change that or setup a custom profile...

bios to my knowledge especially on older mobo's cannot control a water cooler indeed most newer ones just have an AIO header to supply the 12v power required to run the pump unit.....

as to overtightening that's a risk with a lot of coolers but then that's why its good practice to check before doing things up all the way to the stops ....


----------



## Phixit

Well, my H115i pump has failed today. I came back to home after work and it is dead. I got it 2 months ago and replaced the stock fans that were rattling at 1600/1700 RPM. Now the pump ..









Had to unbox my trusty NH-D15S.


----------



## Mergatroid

That's unfortunate.

I have had really good success with all-in-one water coolers so far. We have not had any returns, and those purchased for my own PCs and personal friends PCs are all still working perfectly. Most of them are Corsair, and one was a Thermaltake.

Except for one, I am the one who installed all the rest for customers and friends. The only issue I've had is the original H50 that has a bump that was a little louder than usual occasionally, but I wrote it off to having the pump mounted higher than the rad. I figured there was an air bubble that would work its way into the pump once in a while. The temperatures were always fine. I guess I was just lucky. The good news is, overall they're pretty reliable. It's too bad you got a dud, but I'm sure Corsair will have no problems replacing it for you.


----------



## Gen Patton

Ok Guys sorry but Motoko has the H100i


----------



## Phixit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> That's unfortunate.
> 
> I have had really good success with all-in-one water coolers so far. We have not had any returns, and those purchased for my own PCs and personal friends PCs are all still working perfectly. Most of them are Corsair, and one was a Thermaltake.
> 
> Except for one, I am the one who installed all the rest for customers and friends. The only issue I've had is the original H50 that has a bump that was a little louder than usual occasionally, but I wrote it off to having the pump mounted higher than the rad. I figured there was an air bubble that would work its way into the pump once in a while. The temperatures were always fine. I guess I was just lucky. The good news is, overall they're pretty reliable. It's too bad you got a dud, but I'm sure Corsair will have no problems replacing it for you.


Well, I'll have to pay like $35-40 CAD to ship it back to Corsair in California. They don't have any RMA address in Canada.

I mean .. I paid $180 CAD for the whole thing 2 months ago. That's quite frustrating.


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phixit*
> 
> Well, I'll have to pay like $35-40 CAD to ship it back to Corsair in California. They don't have any RMA address in Canada.
> 
> I mean .. I paid $180 CAD for the whole thing 2 months ago. That's quite frustrating.


really?

why can you not take it back to the shop you bought it from and just get a replacement from them ?

is your defective parts law so lax that you don't a 90day window (3months) in which its the shops responsibility rather than the manufacturers ?

I know that some shops have longer time frames for the returns period and we used to get a full 12 months on any electrical item that cost under £100 (before the EU got involved) but I cant believe your forced down the send to manufacturer route so fast that's just insane...

also wither you did or not tell corsair you had the pumps mobo connector set at a static 100% output for the pump otherwise they can refuse to replace it, and in case you didn't know the pump needs 12v static power level which you can get from the mobo header by putting it in pwm mode or putting it in 100% manual mode, its better to use manual mode because it also needs a good stable current flow and either cl or its onboard profile control the fan and pump speeds the mobo /bios/whatever else cant do the job without causing damage ...


----------



## Phixit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> really?
> 
> why can you not take it back to the shop you bought it from and just get a replacement from them ?
> 
> is your defective parts law so lax that you don't a 90day window (3months) in which its the shops responsibility rather than the manufacturers ?
> 
> I know that some shops have longer time frames for the returns period and we used to get a full 12 months on any electrical item that cost under £100 (before the EU got involved) but I cant believe your forced down the send to manufacturer route so fast that's just insane...
> 
> also wither you did or not tell corsair you had the pumps mobo connector set at a static 100% output for the pump otherwise they can refuse to replace it, and in case you didn't know the pump needs 12v static power level which you can get from the mobo header by putting it in pwm mode or putting it in 100% manual mode, its better to use manual mode because it also needs a good stable current flow and either cl or its onboard profile control the fan and pump speeds the mobo /bios/whatever else cant do the job without causing damage ...


Newegg.ca has a 30 days return policy for this specific item.

I'm actually trying to get a prepaid label from Corsair, but since I'm outside the US, I doubt they'll do it.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phixit*
> 
> Well, I'll have to pay like $35-40 CAD to ship it back to Corsair in California. They don't have any RMA address in Canada.
> 
> I mean .. I paid $180 CAD for the whole thing 2 months ago. That's quite frustrating.


I don't know if they have changed their policies, but the one time I had to deal with a Corsair RMA, they emailed me a shipping label and I didn't have to pay for anything. I got my mouse back in a couple of weeks and it didn't cost me a dime. I'm also in Canada.

Maybe contact them and see what they say before hitting the panic button.


----------



## Gen Patton

Cosair stands behiind there stuff call them. If you need the number pm me i give it to you. i got Asrock, Evga Cosair these are who i buy from. Motoko is my baby i built her and i only put parts in her i trust. These companies i trust along with AMD. but everyone has there favorite.


----------



## Rayzy

Having really hard time with my H110i GTX (software). two stock fans has been replaced to a newer Corsair fans. don't remmember it's name.
This beast does the job, keeping my 6700k under 30c, winters will be like 21~23. case door is closed.


----------



## Gen Patton

These are what i used the 140 mm in the front and the 120mm on top and rear


----------



## stephenn82

Those MAGLEV fans are beast! I dont have the LED models, but the 140 Pro twin pack and they move air. Luckily I turned the header to PWM mode and quited them down a bit. 950rpm moves so much air, but so loud. PWM they spin a 550-565rpm and aid in cooling the GPU from bottom of my Air 740. Tempted to swap even the SP140L's and AF140's out for these babies! Just dont want to shell out the 100 plus bucks to replace fans that are still good enough for gov't.


----------



## RMStringer

Add me to this group!


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> Those MAGLEV fans are beast! I dont have the LED models, but the 140 Pro twin pack and they move air. Luckily I turned the header to PWM mode and quited them down a bit. 950rpm moves so much air, but so loud. PWM they spin a 550-565rpm and aid in cooling the GPU from bottom of my Air 740. Tempted to swap even the SP140L's and AF140's out for these babies! Just dont want to shell out the 100 plus bucks to replace fans that are still good enough for gov't.


I swapped out the default fans on the h115i for a quad ml140 setup and there whisper quiet until something gets hot (normally one of the hard drives hitting 40c) and then all the fans in my case go to max rpm, that's a beast amount of air movement though it creates a draft as well as a lot of noise lol

and I also want to swap the current case fans for more of the ml pro's although I have the led versions, amazon were doing them on a deal price a few weeks ago so I got them for £17 each which I know is about double the price of the standard sp fans but they've got lights and seem to do the job I need (quietness) all I need to do now is figure out why my gpu fans are sounding like a jet engine when there around 40% of max speed ... (rx480 nitro+ gpu) been on to sapphire since the fans fail the fan test in trix software, after I cleaned it out... seems like it wasn't destined to last a whole year of ownership....


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> I swapped out the default fans on the h115i for a quad ml140 setup and there whisper quiet until something gets hot (normally one of the hard drives hitting 40c) and then all the fans in my case go to max rpm, that's a beast amount of air movement though it creates a draft as well as a lot of noise lol
> 
> and I also want to swap the current case fans for more of the ml pro's although I have the led versions, amazon were doing them on a deal price a few weeks ago so I got them for £17 each which I know is about double the price of the standard sp fans but they've got lights and seem to do the job I need (quietness) all I need to do now is figure out why my gpu fans are sounding like a jet engine when there around 40% of max speed ... (rx480 nitro+ gpu) been on to sapphire since the fans fail the fan test in trix software, after I cleaned it out... seems like it wasn't destined to last a whole year of ownership....


that is bad news on the GPU fans! I hope they fix it for you...and its still in warranty. Sapphire is pretty good about taking care of their customers. They should pull through for you.

Yeah, the SP140L's move some air...but those maglevs move more...and a little bit quieter. Meh, they are 24.99 USD for an LED version of an SP fan, I think the MLs are clsoer to 30. so the 17 price is pretty cheap


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> that is bad news on the GPU fans! I hope they fix it for you...and its still in warranty. Sapphire is pretty good about taking care of their customers. They should pull through for you.
> 
> Yeah, the SP140L's move some air...but those maglevs move more...and a little bit quieter. Meh, they are 24.99 USD for an LED version of an SP fan, I think the MLs are closer to 30. so the 17 price is pretty cheap


yeah sapphire have been good to me over the last decade of having cards die, every time one develops a problem I've contacted them they get me to do some test or another and then replace the card

and yeah the blue led ml140 pro's are normally around £27, but for some reason amazon were selling them for £17, whilst all the other 140mm ml fans were normal price.... so they worked out cheaper than any other ml fans even if they were on pre order only....but blue is my preferred colour choice and it went well with the existing blue led sp 140's I already had (even if one of my kids stole a pair of them to upgrade his rig with)

I also like the fact that even at 980 rpm I cant hear them running, only once they go over 1000 do they start to get noticeable and at the full 1800 rpm they are loud, like really loud.... still I have them all running through some sub £10 Phobya 1>8 pwm molex powered extender and its got 4 spare slots (I got the 1>8 because it was cheaper than any other pwm extender on amazon that day) and the option to replace the sp140's with the ml pro's,

I actually wanted to get the hd fans but their airflow and rpm's spec sheet left a lot to be desired... maybe if corsair start to an ml pro hd fan i'll get them in a year or two (also the commander device to run the fans through has a lot of reports about it being buggy right which put me off even more/)

chances are i'm going ot go the custom side panels route and whack another 140mm fan on the back of the case because I don't like how hot the back of the socket and the vrm cover get and its cheaper to hack up the Perspex (although might just do cardboard once I have a spare fan) other problem right now is I don't have any spare mobo fan headers because the sabretooth just doesn't have enough /


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So it appears as though the pump in my H80i V2 is failing after about a year and 2 - 3 months, granted is has been in the "Games Server" in my sig which runs 24/7 so it's had very little down time and had to keep a folding Xeon cool.

Now the question, do I have it replaced or do I see if I can swap it for either a more reliable AIO or maybe an air cooler?


----------



## nanotm

you mean you don't have a air cooler as a backup already ?

if its still in warranty then get it swapped out, you can always sell what you get back if you wish, and a working device sells better than something that's broken/

if you want to then get something totally different because you've lost faith in corsair then do so

if your thinking of getting corsair to upgrade you to one of the other units they sell then ask for it when your chatting to the customer service folks, they might do it they might not I cant answer that one... unless your meaning the store you bought it from, but I don't know any stores that offer more than a 90 day return option and certainly not any that will offer a new for old replacement after that period...

I've got a nh-d14 that I bought purely as a backup to my aio, I took it out of the box tested the fans and put it back in the box and shoved it in the cupboard where I keep all the other spares....


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussiejuggalo*
> 
> So it appears as though the pump in my H80i V2 is failing after about a year and 2 - 3 months, granted is has been in the "Games Server" in my sig which runs 24/7 so it's had very little down time and had to keep a folding Xeon cool.
> 
> Now the question, do I have it replaced or do I see if I can swap it for either a more reliable AIO or maybe an air cooler?


Im tempted to go full water custom loop. how does a h115i sound? Eh...you are in the great land of Australia...shipping would cost more than the unit itself!!


----------



## RMStringer

My Rig with HexaCore AMD Phenom II X6 Black Edition 1090T using the Corsair Hydro Series H55 Quiet Edition now with Blue LED fans on it.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> Those MAGLEV fans are beast! I dont have the LED models, but the 140 Pro twin pack and they move air. Luckily I turned the header to PWM mode and quited them down a bit. 950rpm moves so much air, but so loud. PWM they spin a 550-565rpm and aid in cooling the GPU from bottom of my Air 740. Tempted to swap even the SP140L's and AF140's out for these babies! Just dont want to shell out the 100 plus bucks to replace fans that are still good enough for gov't.


Couldn't agree more. I purchased a Corsair Graphite 760T case and four blue LED 140mm ML fans for it. They look awesome, move a ton of air and are a little quieter than most fans I have used. Even so, with four ML fans and three 120mm fans on the cooler the PC makes a bit of noise when first turned on, but after 30 seconds or so the board slows all the fans down to minimum speed and it's pretty quiet unless I start benchmarking.
Great fans for sure.


----------



## Gen Patton

I boought the 140mm ml fans for the frount, ii swaped out the fans for my rad with the red ml 120 and a white 120mm on the rear, temps are low cosair software show's me good temps. now Motoko is smiiling


----------



## stephenn82

Good stuff! I am tempted to swap all of my chassis fans out. Maybe later. RGB ML 140s are crazy...I dont think I need all the insane colors. Red would be nice though. My corsair case has a button on front to cycle through colors of LEDs, but there is no controller hooked to it. Still waiting on THAT Corsair..if you are listening/reading. (air 740)

I ordered a set of colorized extensions to go with my build...red/black/grey for my system...doh! get the cables on the inside looking all nice and clean, tidy it up.









I thought the MLs run up to 2200rpm? Yeaht, they start making some real noise at 950-1050 rpm. Mine were almost spinning at 980 on DC mode. After swapping the fan headers to PWM, things got quieter down to the 550 rpm.

**nope, they only go to 2k for 140mm.**


----------



## nanotm

yeah that's the thing with the ml fans they need a constant 12v dc supply so you don't kill the bearings, so whilst they will run in non pwm configuration its just going to break them ....

and yes the noise starts to come in when its mounted to a radiator at about 980rpm, if its just on the case with a clear flow its much quieter even at 1200rpm...

the air noise though it pretty much unbearable when its at the full rpm (my pc says 1800 for that) although its supposed to be 2000.... but whatever its loud as **** especially with 4 of them in push pull on a 280mm rad....


----------



## stephenn82

when resetting the BIOS, the fan headers on my board reset to DC mode. I have to go flip them to PWM. good thing it was ran that way for only a few minutes!


----------



## Phixit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I don't know if they have changed their policies, but the one time I had to deal with a Corsair RMA, they emailed me a shipping label and I didn't have to pay for anything. I got my mouse back in a couple of weeks and it didn't cost me a dime. I'm also in Canada.
> 
> Maybe contact them and see what they say before hitting the panic button.


Quick update :

They provided me a UPS shipping label.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phixit*
> 
> Quick update :
> 
> They provided me a UPS shipping label.


That's awesome bud. Nice to see they still have good customer service.


----------



## Krazee

hmm newegg has a refurbished H100i v2 for $65. The brand new one is $109 with $10 rebate. Decisions...


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krazee*
> 
> hmm newegg has a refurbished H100i v2 for $65. The brand new one is $109 with $10 rebate. Decisions...


I don't think the warranty is as long for refurbs. You might want to check into that before deciding.


----------



## Krazee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I don't think the warranty is as long for refurbs. You might want to check into that before deciding.


It's only a year. I got a $20 gift card from newegg due to a price match claim so new H100i v2 it is


----------



## Mergatroid

That's great. Nothing like a discount on a new water cooler.
Love those five year warranties.


----------



## Krazee

So the new cooler came in. Re-installed Corsair Link. I noticed on thing compared to the refurbished H80i. The H80i could have un-even fan speed when Link was turned on, going from high to low then back to high and so forth. The H100i V2 stayed at constant speed.


----------



## lonsor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krazee*
> 
> So the new cooler came in. Re-installed Corsair Link. I noticed on thing compared to the refurbished H80i. The H80i could have un-even fan speed when Link was turned on, going from high to low then back to high and so forth. The H100i V2 stayed at constant speed.


Are the fan speeds related to cpu temp or water temp? You need to set it up to water temp to avoid fan rpm volatility.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krazee*
> 
> So the new cooler came in. Re-installed Corsair Link. I noticed on thing compared to the refurbished H80i. The H80i could have un-even fan speed when Link was turned on, going from high to low then back to high and so forth. The H100i V2 stayed at constant speed.


If you are not using any other Corsair Link products, and if the fans are 4-pin PWM, and finally if you have two cpu fan headers on your a motherboard, you mght want to consider just plugging the fans directly into your motherboard. It should work without a hitch if the fans are real PWM and you have a decent motherboard.

You can do without the link (it's always nice to remove unnecessary software), and your motherboard will key on cpu temp instead of water temp, so basically the fan will react faster. If this interests you, but you only have a single cpu fan header, you can also use a PWM fan splitter and plug that into the cpu header.

Just food for thought. If you have an ASUS motherboard, they have excellent fan control software.


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> If you are not using any other Corsair Link products, and if the fans are 4-pin PWM, and finally if you have two cpu fan headers on your a motherboard, you mght want to consider just plugging the fans directly into your motherboard. It should work without a hitch if the fans are real PWM and you have a decent motherboard.
> 
> You can do without the link (it's always nice to remove unnecessary software), and your motherboard will key on cpu temp instead of water temp, so basically the fan will react faster. If this interests you, but you only have a single cpu fan header, you can also use a PWM fan splitter and plug that into the cpu header.
> 
> Just food for thought. If you have an ASUS motherboard, they have excellent fan control software.


and drive him insane with the constant spinning up and down noises....

plug the fans into the fan headers off the pump unit use corsair link to create a custom fan profile save as default and then delete link from the pc, your cooler will follow your set profile

always have the pump connected to the CPU or AIO fan header on the motherboard and always have it set to 100% or PWM mode, cpu opt header is always a mirror output of the main cpu_fan header both are normally disabled by using the AIO header

AIO pump units (and most custom loop pumps) require a fixed 12v supply or you knacker the motor, the speed is normally controlled via pwm, with corsair aio's they include a temp sensor for the water and act independently of the CPU temp, they are not supposed to be controlled by the BIOS and as such don't follow pwm signals from the motherboard anyway and stick to the default setup (a setup you can change through corsair link)

and also setting the fans ot respond ot CPU is bad for the fans because the CPU temp isn't a true temperature its guestimated based on power supplied to the CPU and speed the CPU is running at which is why it goes down as fast as it goes up, there is a sensor that detects actual heat but it doesn't work below 45degress c and it climes and lowers very slowly based on actual temps.... half the time when the computer rtegisters a cpu temp spike above 45 and then drops off a second or two later once the current compute task is done that was a guesstimate temp ... only when your cpu is actually being worked hard for more than 30 seconds does it actually start to warm up like that, all you do by linking the fans to the cpu temp is burn them out faster....


----------



## Krazee

I only use the Link software to update the firmware on the coolers. Other than that, the software is never used. For both the refurbished H80i and the new H100i V2, the pump is plugged into the AIO header whereas the fans are all plugged into the cooler itself.


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krazee*
> 
> I only use the Link software to update the firmware on the coolers. Other than that, the software is never used. For both the refurbished H80i and the new H100i V2, the pump is plugged into the AIO header whereas the fans are all plugged into the cooler itself.


yeah you should install the link software setup the fan profile hit the "save as default" button (or it might be "make default") and then you can uninstall it, whilst your doing that just ensure that the fans are part of the cooler group, sometimes there set up as cpu or even mobo temp as factory default (i'm a go right ahead and guess it depends on which guy was doing the QA as to how there set up)

once you have it all set up feel free to remove the link software and not worry about it again, and keep the fans connected to the pump outputs they will likely be your first indicator that something is wrong should anything untoward happen in the future if your not using the link software /


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> and drive him insane with the constant spinning up and down noises....
> 
> plug the fans into the fan headers off the pump unit use corsair link to create a custom fan profile save as default and then delete link from the pc, your cooler will follow your set profile
> 
> always have the pump connected to the CPU or AIO fan header on the motherboard and always have it set to 100% or PWM mode, cpu opt header is always a mirror output of the main cpu_fan header both are normally disabled by using the AIO header
> 
> AIO pump units (and most custom loop pumps) require a fixed 12v supply or you knacker the motor, the speed is normally controlled via pwm, with corsair aio's they include a temp sensor for the water and act independently of the CPU temp, they are not supposed to be controlled by the BIOS and as such don't follow pwm signals from the motherboard anyway and stick to the default setup (a setup you can change through corsair link)
> 
> and also setting the fans ot respond ot CPU is bad for the fans because the CPU temp isn't a true temperature its guestimated based on power supplied to the CPU and speed the CPU is running at which is why it goes down as fast as it goes up, there is a sensor that detects actual heat but it doesn't work below 45degress c and it climes and lowers very slowly based on actual temps.... half the time when the computer rtegisters a cpu temp spike above 45 and then drops off a second or two later once the current compute task is done that was a guesstimate temp ... only when your cpu is actually being worked hard for more than 30 seconds does it actually start to warm up like that, all you do by linking the fans to the cpu temp is burn them out faster....


Uh, no.

I have literally built hundreds of PCs, and many of them are sold with water coolers. I always use the CPU fan headers whenever I can. You are not "constantly bothered by fans spinning up and down", and I have no idea where you get that from.

Any modern board will regulate the fans just fine, and don't cause them to constantly spin up and down. As I mentioned, ASUS boards come with fantastic temperature and fan control software, and it will react to actual real CPU temperature instead of the delayed reaction to water temperature.

In fact, I have a 360mm rad in my own personal system Right now, with three 120mm fans on it, all plugged into CPU fan headers. There is no spinning up and down. Also, every cooler not using link-type software does this same thing. The only ones that don't use either the block or some type of USB controller. Check out the multitude of other types of AIO water coolers on the market. Many of them use this exact method for controlling the fans, and even earlier models of Corsair coolers, and some of their current cheaper units, also use this exact method.

I swear sometimes I think people just make this stuff up.


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Uh, no.
> 
> I have literally built hundreds of PCs, and many of them are sold with water coolers. I always use the CPU fan headers whenever I can. You are not "constantly bothered by fans spinning up and down", and I have no idea where you get that from.
> 
> Any modern board will regulate the fans just fine, and don't cause them to constantly spin up and down. As I mentioned, ASUS boards come with fantastic temperature and fan control software, and it will react to actual real CPU temperature instead of the delayed reaction to water temperature.
> 
> In fact, I have a 360mm rad in my own personal system Right now, with three 120mm fans on it, all plugged into CPU fan headers. There is no spinning up and down. Also, every cooler not using link-type software does this same thing. The only ones that don't use either the block or some type of USB controller. Check out the multitude of other types of AIO water coolers on the market. Many of them use this exact method for controlling the fans, and even earlier models of Corsair coolers, and some of their current cheaper units, also use this exact method.
> 
> I swear sometimes I think people just make this stuff up.


and why would you want to react to actual cpu temps when your fans are doing nothing to it ????

your illogical post makes zero sense

i'll give you an old quote;

"its better for folks to think your foolish than to open your mouth and confirm it"


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> and why would you want to react to actual cpu temps when your fans are doing nothing to it ????
> 
> your illogical post makes zero sense
> 
> i'll give you an old quote;
> 
> "its better for folks to think your foolish than to open your mouth and confirm it"


Your quote applies perfectly, to you.
Basing temperature management on water temp just delays the fans. When the water starts warming up the fans are already on, thus allowing the system to regulate better than reacting only when the temperature is already high.

But I'm sure you have built and sold as many systems as I have over the last 30 years.

Maybe read the thread from the beginning and learn something, like I have. Yeah, it is huge, but that's the cost of knowledge.


----------



## nanotm

well sure I can have my fans make a noise every time I open an app ready in case the cpu actually heats up or I can have a nice system that runs cool and makes virtually no noise, you do things your way and i'll do them mine I guess


----------



## Mergatroid

If you fans are spinning up every time you run an app, you're doing something wrong. None of the systems I have built have ever done that. None of these systems are overly noisy. In fact, many of the main board apps for monitoring and control are quite excellent. Perhaps you should join the 21st century and actually check out those programs before just dismissing then, and making things up about noisy systems being caused by basing cooling off of cpu temperature.

The fact is, we have this one system, and every other system, and you are claiming every other system is noisy and only the way Corsair does it is quiet. Your entire premis is ridiculous.


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> If you fans are spinning up every time you run an app, you're doing something wrong. None of the systems I have built have ever done that. None of these systems are overly noisy. In fact, many of the main board apps for monitoring and control are quite excellent. Perhaps you should join the 21st century and actually check out those programs before just dismissing then, and making things up about noisy systems being caused by basing cooling off of cpu temperature.
> 
> The fact is, we have this one system, and every other system, and you are claiming every other system is noisy and only the way Corsair does it is quiet. Your entire premis is ridiculous.


for corsair water coolers there way of doing things would be better than anyone else's, what with that being how there designed too operate no ?


----------



## Mergatroid

So you're saying the Corsair water coolers that don't use the Link suck? Because not all Corsair AIO water coolers use the link. In fact, the link is only about three years old or so.

What it comes down to here is that, you don't need to base your fan speed off of water temperature, as many coolers including some Corsair models do, and it won't make your system any noisier to do it this way.

Why you are making such a big deal out of a tried and true method of fan control I really can't fathom. I was just offering someone an alternate way to achieve the same thing without having to resort to using the Link software, which some people have complained about in the past as being a little "unstable".

Using the cpu header is, as I mentioned, tried and true. It works very well, and does not cause your system to become noisy. There is also software, including manufacturer software, that will let you set up fan ramps if you prefer, but from my experience, is not really required since many modern motherboards won't have much problem controlling fans.

I have set up so many computers this way that your claim of this making computers noisy really came out of the blue.


----------



## mAs81

Hey guys,

a couple of months ago,I decided to refresh the thermal paste on my cpu,since my 4790K is a rather toasty chip,even delided,and the weather is very hot here in the summer..

Now,I've known this from the start,but I just wanted to express my disappointment at the plastic backplate of my H75...

My beef with it is,that from the start , the little screwholes in the backplate where the standoffs go,are flimsy to the point that the whole standoff and screw would turn around endlessly whenI tried to screw them down,with no way of actually having a tight fit of the pump on the CPU


Spoiler: Like so







The end result was having a rather loose pump on the cpu,tho I made sure I tightened it as much as I could and that it made adequate contact with the cpu..

Needless to say that my temps were way worse afterwards , but since my room gets very hot in the summer,and I also don't really use my rig in the summer that much,I temporarily let it go..

Now that the weather has cooled down a bit tho,I still saw higher cpu temps than I'd like and my annoyance rose to boiling temps too..

My salvation came in the form of my brother's H110 backplate that he didn't want , since he went Ryzen and has no need for it..
So today I opened up my rig for it's annual cleaning session and got to it..

Even tho the whole backplate was rather loose at first,after I tightened the thumbscrews I finally had a tight fit!

And while I can't get into numbers right now , cause I hadn't much time to test it since I had to leave for work,my startup idle temps were significantly lower..

I'll do some more checking and post back,but my beef isn't with the H75 cooling capabilities ,but with the flimsy,poorly made,plastic backplate that Corsair includes in more coolers than this one as it turns out,after some googling..

I'll end my rant here,but I'd be more than interested to hear if any other H75 or H series owner has had similar woes to my own and how he dealt with it..


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> ...
> 
> I'll end my rant here,but I'd be more than interested to hear if any other H75 or H series owner has had similar woes to my own and how he dealt with it..


I had *this* delivered to me once, free of charge. As well as my H110 I had replaced, on another incident. It is what I love about Corsair.


----------



## mAs81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> I had *this* delivered to me once, free of charge. As well as my H110 I had replaced, on another incident. It is what I love about Corsair.


Don't get me wrong,I'm a fan of Corsair too-their aftermarket/RMA services( and the Corsair reps here in OCN too)are impeccable...But unfortunately since I am where I am,their services(and products for that matter) don't always reach my country









_*EDIT:*_
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mAs81*
> 
> I'll do some more checking and post back..


Wow...with the same CPU usage , when I was seeing max temps of 69-70c ,now it never goes higher than 60c in any core...

Remember to tighten your pimp kids , lol , lesson learned


----------



## JAM3S121

Happy owner of a h100i v2. I've never used the link software and i lost the USB cable.

First. Would this cable work? https://www.moddiy.com/products/USB-Internal-9%252dPin-to-Mini%252dUSB-Adapter-Cable-(60cm).html?gclid=Cj0KCQiA84rQBRDCARIsAPO8RFyhp42TjjM7b4FTIYs4a-5I3p4A44Pydehq5QqNrylMnf4bWDwfkaMaAuCFEALw_wcB

Second, if I plug this cable in once, download the software just to change the pump color then unplug the cable will the color profile stick?

thanks!


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> Happy owner of a h100i v2. I've never used the link software and i lost the USB cable.
> 
> First. Would this cable work? https://www.moddiy.com/products/USB-Internal-9%252dPin-to-Mini%252dUSB-Adapter-Cable-(60cm).html?gclid=Cj0KCQiA84rQBRDCARIsAPO8RFyhp42TjjM7b4FTIYs4a-5I3p4A44Pydehq5QqNrylMnf4bWDwfkaMaAuCFEALw_wcB
> 
> Second, if I plug this cable in once, download the software just to change the pump color then unplug the cable will the color profile stick?
> 
> thanks!


yeah that should work fine, any mini usb cable should work, half the time i use a normal mini to usb adaptor and just thread it through a spare pci slot in the back of the case and into a usb socket









if you save it as the defualt profile colour then yes


----------



## Gen Patton

Cosair stands behind there work. i have the h100 series and its doing fine in motoko. my temps are low. software link is really good, keeps tabs on how motoko is running. i like it.


----------



## Zaber123

What kind of rad coolant vs CPU temps do you guys experience? Right now I've been playing the COD single player campaign for about 40 min and Link shows this:


Does this seem in line with working correctly? This is with 2 Corsair ML Fans pushing through a front mounted rad in an Enthoo Pro M.


----------



## Imprezzion

Can I add a screenshot later? I don't have one with a stress load right now.

But, I'm the proud new owner of a (secondhand but only shortly used) H110i GTX.

I'm running top exhaust in a 730/760T.
The stock fans are in push with 2 140MM 750RPM Enermax Apollish fans in pull. The stock fans are at 25-32.5% PWM (650-900RPM).
Pump on Performance mode. No noise difference at all with Quiet so.. 3000RPM it is.

It's cooling a 4770K @ 4.3Ghz 1.328v load with 4Ghz uncore @1.2v and 2.00v VCCIN.

In games it reaches about 50c max and in Prime95 AVX like, 60-62c.

This is easily 10c better than my Noctua D15S did with 3 Noctua fans on full blast.

I tried to see how far I can push it and it still only reached 76c on the hottest core.


----------



## Gen Patton

Looks good to me, i will have to play around with the link more but my temps are low. and i think my load on my cpu is around 20%.


----------



## vf-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> So you're saying the Corsair water coolers that don't use the Link suck? Because not all Corsair AIO water coolers use the link. In fact, the link is only about three years old or so.
> 
> What it comes down to here is that, you don't need to base your fan speed off of water temperature, as many coolers including some Corsair models do, and it won't make your system any noisier to do it this way.
> 
> Why you are making such a big deal out of a tried and true method of fan control I really can't fathom. I was just offering someone an alternate way to achieve the same thing without having to resort to using the Link software, which some people have complained about in the past as being a little "unstable".
> 
> Using the cpu header is, as I mentioned, tried and true. It works very well, and does not cause your system to become noisy. There is also software, including manufacturer software, that will let you set up fan ramps if you prefer, but from my experience, is not really required since many modern motherboards won't have much problem controlling fans.
> 
> I have set up so many computers this way that your claim of this making computers noisy really came out of the blue.


I'm still on a Corsair H80 from 2010, one of the first of their AIO units if I remember correctly? With the round pump. It is cooling an i7 3770k at 4.4 - 1.2v. I have it setup for quiet gaming, 60-ish degrees at 1000rpm and 65c plus it starts ramping up to 1800rpm with custom fans. (With the option of a Y splitter into the CPU header unused.) Only pull is currently in use with the two front off. Cannot hear it when gaming. You can hear it when the cores are 100% Prime95. Not excessive, just somewhat loud soft air. Prime95 is 80c at 1800rpm with the one fan. The pump is a fixed speed of 1400rpm into the power header.

Only the lower bay fan for SSDs and PSU is on at 900rpm so the PSU fan never comes on, rear fan 1000rpm, two roof 140mm off and front 120mm off until the fan controller thinks it is ready. It never reaches that target when gaming.

Take my headphones off and the computer sounds like it is idle when gaming. Quiet headphone gaming.


----------



## Mergatroid

I have also been using my own system in that same way for years. The first Corsair water cooler was the H50. A few years later I believe they came out with the H70 which was a double thick rad and a newer pump. A year or so later and the original H100 and H80 came onto the market, both of which were excellent. They used a squareish pump you could plug the fans into, and by pressing a button on the pump you could place the fans into one of three RPM Ranges, low, medium and high speed. Each range offered control over about 800 RPM (all from memory so don't quote me). With those two coolers I also recommended using PWM fans and running them from your motherboard for a larger range of control although the controller in the pump would de a pretty good job.

The next year saw the introduction of the Link and then coolers that also used the link. Soon they were selling coolers with the link. Many people had issues using these early Link products, so I basically stayed away from them. It seems they have most of the bugs works out now though, and using the link or the motherboard board would likely both do a decent job.


----------



## specialedge

I am the owner of a secondhand H100i and I need a third-party opinion. Is this how it's supposed to work?

https://youtu.be/Lm93K7Ssv6I

Asus Crosshair 6 Hero
Ryzen 5 1600X
16GB G,Skills Ripjaw DDR4 2400
Corsair H100i
Zotac Geforce 1070 Founders Edition
Samsung SSD 850 EVO 500Gb
Seagate 1TB IDE
Coolermaster HAF 932 Black
EVGA 650 G3 Gold


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *specialedge*
> 
> I am the owner of a secondhand H100i and I need a third-party opinion. Is this how it's supposed to work?
> 
> https://youtu.be/Lm93K7Ssv6I
> 
> Asus Crosshair 6 Hero
> Ryzen 5 1600X
> 16GB G,Skills Ripjaw DDR4 2400
> Corsair H100i
> Zotac Geforce 1070 Founders Edition
> Samsung SSD 850 EVO 500Gb
> Seagate 1TB IDE
> Coolermaster HAF 932 Black
> EVGA 650 G3 Gold


i would ask on the corsair forum

but whilst your doing that can you say wether the pump is running or not ?

the device not showing up in link isnt great but then did you plug in the USB ? have you tried it in more than one usb header ?

have you checked to see it its showing in device manager as either a workign or none working device ?

are you running the latest version of link from the corsair website ?


----------



## specialedge

Thanks for the response.

I havent posted in the Corsair forums but there are a lot of threads of users finding similar issues as this. It seems the common theme is that Corsair Link is strongly incompatible with Ryzen on Asus boards, presumably due to their outsourcing of Asmedia root hub device development or something.

The pump is running - fans must be controlled using CPU/OPT headers. I've got 2x stock H100i fans arranged in push/pull as cool air intake in the top, and 2x corsair SP120mm arranged in the same way.

Usb is plugged in. Device manager doesn't report any misconfigured or failing device. C6H has only the lone header inside the box, so it would either take trying out a different cable and connect it outside on the board's back panel, or purchase a commander pro. One thread claimed that swapping out the usb cable for another worked, and i just so happen to have another one that i will be trying as soon as i post this reply.

Running CL 4.7 after trying both the current version as well as 4.8's more recent offering.

Edit: No go on the alt cable. How frequently does Corsair release updates? Might just have to put this cooler on my AM3+ system and jump for that 5GHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> i would ask on the corsair forum
> 
> but whilst your doing that can you say wether the pump is running or not ?
> 
> the device not showing up in link isnt great but then did you plug in the USB ? have you tried it in more than one usb header ?
> 
> have you checked to see it its showing in device manager as either a workign or none working device ?
> 
> are you running the latest version of link from the corsair website ?


----------



## nanotm

yeah when the h80i gt came out my asus mobo wouldn't recognise it wiht the supplied usb lead, i swapped that for a lead off one of the kids old Nintendo ds's to an external usb slot and bingo worked like a charm..... when i got the h115i I didn't even bother trying to use the included usb lead just plugged the same old ds lead into it and fed it out the back via one of the unused pcie slots on the bottom of the case .....

both drivers and usb leads are picky things and i dont think that has anything to do with asus or ryzen as a rule, ive had similar problems on other pc's, (gigabyte/intel) where out of a pack of 4 leads one would only work on one piece of kit, another wouldn't work at all (but they all worked fine on a different pc) its just one of those things especially with mass produced gear, theres always the odd lemon part /


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *specialedge*
> 
> Thanks for the response.
> 
> I havent posted in the Corsair forums but there are a lot of threads of users finding similar issues as this. It seems the common theme is that Corsair Link is strongly incompatible with Ryzen on Asus boards, presumably due to their outsourcing of Asmedia root hub device development or something.
> 
> The pump is running - fans must be controlled using CPU/OPT headers. I've got 2x stock H100i fans arranged in push/pull as cool air intake in the top, and 2x corsair SP120mm arranged in the same way.
> 
> Usb is plugged in. Device manager doesn't report any misconfigured or failing device. C6H has only the lone header inside the box, so it would either take trying out a different cable and connect it outside on the board's back panel, or purchase a commander pro. One thread claimed that swapping out the usb cable for another worked, and i just so happen to have another one that i will be trying as soon as i post this reply.
> 
> Running CL 4.7 after trying both the current version as well as 4.8's more recent offering.
> 
> Edit: No go on the alt cable. How frequently does Corsair release updates? Might just have to put this cooler on my AM3+ system and jump for that 5GHz


If you're not dead set on using the link to control your fans, and as long as the pump is working, you can use the ASUS motherboard with the AI Suite software to control the cooler fans. Everything should work fine, and you can customize the AI Suit fan ramps and anything else you like, or have the suite evaluate your system and set the ramps accordingly.

So, if you can't get the link to work on your new board, this might be a good short term alternative until Corsair comes out with an update.


----------



## d3v0

I think I am finally considering an upgrade from my H50(push pull, stock corsair fans), which has been in use for about 7 years to a new H115i.

I would also be replacing the stock fans with 4 of these guys in push pull and connecting them to my fan controller. Are these decent fans for an H115i? Thanks!

http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/casefans/dynamic-series/dynamic-gp-14


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> I think I am finally considering an upgrade from my H50(push pull, stock corsair fans), which has been in use for about 7 years to a new H115i.
> 
> I would also be replacing the stock fans with 4 of these guys in push pull and connecting them to my fan controller. Are these decent fans for an H115i? Thanks!
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/casefans/dynamic-series/dynamic-gp-14


theres not much point in using push/pull (it makes less than 1 degree of difference to the water temp but increases the noise volume by quite a lot) the fans you've picked are slow fans better to have something that runs as low as 600 rpm but is capable of a higher max speed 1000 rpm, i ran my h115i in fixed speed mode at 1050 rpm on a set of ml pro's (because thats really where there still whisper quiet) and the water hit 40 degrees i pushed the fans to hit max speed and the temp dropped down to 32 degrees whilst still under the same load....

oh and pwm fans work better with the pump header than non pwm fans (i have both types of 140mm fan) due to the fact they can run at lower rpm thus less noise when your not working the cpu so much, in terms of noise the factory fans are quite noisy at full speed but if you use a custom fan curve and stop it at around 80% of max speed then an air cooled gfx card will likely be louder at full speed /


----------



## d3v0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> theres not much point in using push/pull (it makes less than 1 degree of difference to the water temp but increases the noise volume by quite a lot) the fans you've picked are slow fans better to have something that runs as low as 600 rpm but is capable of a higher max speed 1000 rpm, i ran my h115i in fixed speed mode at 1050 rpm on a set of ml pro's (because thats really where there still whisper quiet) and the water hit 40 degrees i pushed the fans to hit max speed and the temp dropped down to 32 degrees whilst still under the same load....
> 
> oh and pwm fans work better with the pump header than non pwm fans (i have both types of 140mm fan) due to the fact they can run at lower rpm thus less noise when your not working the cpu so much, in terms of noise the factory fans are quite noisy at full speed but if you use a custom fan curve and stop it at around 80% of max speed then an air cooled gfx card will likely be louder at full speed /


Interesting, I heard that the radiator for Corsair is super dense and thus higher CFM fans are required. Trying to balance noise vs. pressure a little bit. I do believe that the GP-14's are PWM. I would set them up with the fan controller on the Fractal and run them at whatever speed my current usage required. if 1000RPM is too little, can you make a better recommendation?

Also, how do you guys like to set these up? As intake, or exhaust?


----------



## nanotm

personally i have the corsair ml pro fans which are max 2000rpm (listed) and 1850 (reported) and i have the cooler set up as intake although i ran it as an exhaust for a month whilst i was waiting for parts the difference is like 2 degrees higher cooler temps in exhaust position

if you look at the tech specs the ml pro's are rated as 20-97cfm, 400>2000 rpm, 0.2>3.0 static pressure (H2O), 16>37dBa and a 5 yr warrenty

the fractals are listed as maximum 68.4 cfm, maximum 0.71 static pressure, max 1000 rpm and minmimum starting of 4v with the sound measured as 18.9 dBa (normally measured at the lowest possible spin speed when they dont mention the range of the sound)

so chances are the ml pros are better in the up to 1000 rpm point and obviously better in the over 1000 rpm point never mind the fractals only have 40k MTBF and a 1 yr warrenty....

sure the fractals are half the price but it seems like your only getting half the product as well .... (oh and the ml fans do come in non led versions if you dont like the lights for a cheaper price)


----------



## d3v0

Nice. I will def look into a different setup.

Do those ML Pros have *white* LEDs? Thats awesome. If I am going to pay a premium though, I want noctua level performance vs sound.


----------



## nanotm

white red blue or rgb or no led all black or no led with off white blades are the variations full options here



the rgb fans all seem to have a much lower max speed though probably to eliminate the problems of the hypnotic/stroboscopic effect if you have the lights set to some form of flash at faster speeds....

but personally dont like rgb inside the case so its not a problem lol


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> I think I am finally considering an upgrade from my H50(push pull, stock corsair fans), which has been in use for about 7 years to a new H115i.
> 
> I would also be replacing the stock fans with 4 of these guys in push pull and connecting them to my fan controller. Are these decent fans for an H115i? Thanks!
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/casefans/dynamic-series/dynamic-gp-14


Those fan are three pin fans. They are also case fans, not rad fans. They have very low static pressure so may not work well on a rad.

Check the specs for the H115 and see if it uses four pin or three pin fans. Three pin fans work by changing the voltage, depending on how fast they are set. Four pin fans work by a PWM signal that regulates the speed.

If the fans plug into the Corsair Link, or into the block of the H115 then you would likely want the correct type of fan, but if you are going to plug them into your motherboard for control then check if your motherboard can do three pin or four pin fans. If you are going to be using four fans, you may need a couple of splitters to connect them all. PWM splitters for four pin fans, and regular splitters for three pin fans.

The first step is deciding how you are going to control the fans, then you will know which type to get.


----------



## d3v0

This is super interesting.

http://www.overclockers.com/15-case-fans-tested-ultimate-140-mm-roundup/

The Fractal GP-14's push 40CFM through the Rad at 17.5 decibels, comparable with 42 CFM from a thermalright X-Silent at 19.5 decibels. No corsair models were tested. Since we are looking solely at pushing through a rad, I figured I would post those numbers here.

Looks like theyre exceptionally quiet but still decent CFM through a rad. Definitely not ultimate. But those noctua fans spinning at 1500 RPM for 29 decibels get 60CFM or so, which is 50% more but for a cost of way more noise too.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> I think I am finally considering an upgrade from my H50(push pull, stock corsair fans), which has been in use for about 7 years to a new H115i.
> 
> I would also be replacing the stock fans with 4 of these guys in push pull and connecting them to my fan controller. Are these decent fans for an H115i? Thanks!
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/casefans/dynamic-series/dynamic-gp-14


The SP140L's are decent fans for the h115i lol

2 is all you need. No need for push pull on it. Save cash for some other sweet parts.

Those are rated max pressure of .88
The stock corsairs are over 3.8 which equates to 1.7. Double the other fans. I say don't waste the cash


----------



## RichKnecht

This has probably been discussed in this thread, but has anyone who replaced their fans on a H100i V2 seen a temp improvement? What fans did you switch to? I ask this because I am running a H100i V2 on my system and I am thinking of either going to a 115i or replacing the fans on the 100i. I am running a Xeon x5650 OC'ed to 4.6 GHz @ 1.4V. Idle temps are ~32 and full load temps are ~70. Love to get them down to 62-65 without lowering my OC.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichKnecht*
> 
> This has probably been discussed in this thread, but has anyone who replaced their fans on a H100i V2 seen a temp improvement? What fans did you switch to? I ask this because I am running a H100i V2 on my system and I am thinking of either going to a 115i or replacing the fans on the 100i. I am running a Xeon x5650 OC'ed to 4.6 GHz @ 1.4V. Idle temps are ~32 and full load temps are ~70. Love to get them down to 62-65 without lowering my OC.


Did you delid that chip yet?

If no, I think we found your next move...will drop you 15 degrees EASILY

I delidded my 6700k and went to 17c idle and 56c max load at 1.325v and 4.6ghz Under a 115i I was hitting 71c loaded at 4.4v 1.295v

My friend delidded his 7700k and took his idles down to 16c and max temps of 62c at 5ghz on 1.34v~ and he has 100i v2. He was hitting like 73c at 4.8ghz.

No sense changing fans or coolers...


----------



## RichKnecht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> Did you delid that chip yet?
> 
> If no, I think we found your next move...will drop you 15 degrees EASILY
> 
> I delidded my 6700k and went to 17c idle and 56c max load at 1.325v and 4.6ghz Under a 115i I was hitting 71c loaded at 4.4v 1.295v
> 
> My friend delidded his 7700k and took his idles down to 16c and max temps of 62c at 5ghz on 1.34v~ and he has 100i v2. He was hitting like 73c at 4.8ghz.
> 
> No sense changing fans or coolers...


I have actually looked into delidding, but the ihs on the 5675 is soldered on. There are ways to do it using an iron or heat gun, but I just don't feel too comfortable doing that.


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichKnecht*
> 
> I have actually looked into delidding, but the ihs on the 5675 is soldered on. There are ways to do it using an iron or heat gun, but I just don't feel too comfortable doing that.


i was under the impression the only point of performing a delid was to replace the toothpaste intel started using instead of solder to connect the IHS to the chip...


----------



## RichKnecht

Exactly. That's why I never bothered. Now if I knew that the 115i would fit in the top of my case....May just head to Microcenter and pick up a 115 and give it a go.

EDIT: H100i V2 out, H115i in. It's what I should have bought in the first place. Temps much better with mu OC now.


----------



## Excelon351

please delete


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> This is super interesting.
> 
> http://www.overclockers.com/15-case-fans-tested-ultimate-140-mm-roundup/
> 
> The Fractal GP-14's push 40CFM through the Rad at 17.5 decibels, comparable with 42 CFM from a thermalright X-Silent at 19.5 decibels. No corsair models were tested. Since we are looking solely at pushing through a rad, I figured I would post those numbers here.
> 
> Looks like theyre exceptionally quiet but still decent CFM through a rad. Definitely not ultimate. But those noctua fans spinning at 1500 RPM for 29 decibels get 60CFM or so, which is 50% more but for a cost of way more noise too.


Don't forget it's unlikely you will be running those fans at 100%.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichKnecht*
> 
> I have actually looked into delidding, but the ihs on the 5675 is soldered on. There are ways to do it using an iron or heat gun, but I just don't feel too comfortable doing that.


Soldered on vice delid with liquid metal is almost minimal difference.


----------



## RichKnecht

OK, after searching around I found a few videos dealing with the loose back plate on my H100i V2. I went to Home Depot, picked up a few plastic washers and my temps dropped 9 degrees with load. I can also see the water temp rising as CPU temps rise which didn't happen before. So my guess is that the loose back plate is a design flaw, at least for my set up anyway. Corsair should include 4 washers/spacers to allow the back plate not to be so loose.


----------



## Derek1

Ok got a Link question here.
Updated Link last week or so and noticed that MB Temps had been expanded from when I first started using Link.
That is to say there are now MB Temp indicators for Temp 5, 6 and 7 when they did not use to be there.
I am running an Asus X79 Deluxe and have looked at all documentation I can find about the location of these any temp sensors but have found nothing definitive.
If you look at the picture you will see the temps for #s 5,6,7 are all in the 90C-100C range. This picture was taken immediately after start up. From what I can see they do settle down to say 95C and seem to stay constant. But can't really tell while I am gaming.
I am assuming the sensors,if that is what they are, are around the VRMS, but would they get THAT hot so quickly? Need I be concerned?
Any ideas here would be appreciated.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derek1*
> 
> Ok got a Link question here.
> Updated Link last week or so and noticed that MB Temps had been expanded from when I first started using Link.
> That is to say there are now MB Temp indicators for Temp 5, 6 and 7 when they did not use to be there.
> I am running an Asus X79 Deluxe and have looked at all documentation I can find about the location of these any temp sensors but have found nothing definitive.
> If you look at the picture you will see the temps for #s 5,6,7 are all in the 90C-100C range. This picture was taken immediately after start up. From what I can see they do settle down to say 95C and seem to stay constant. But can't really tell while I am gaming.
> I am assuming the sensors,if that is what they are, are around the VRMS, but would they get THAT hot so quickly? Need I be concerned?
> Any ideas here would be appreciated.


My guess is that there COULD be thermal sensors there. Link is picking it up, but since no sensor is present, it gives a false error. Similar to GPU's with less sensors and GPU-z reporting a constant 65c or so. i wouldnt be concerned at all, just a false reading IMHO.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
My H110i GT died yesterday after almost 30 months doubt I'll rma since I have no idea where I bought it or where the receipt is :/
Doubt I'll buy another corsair product either
Might go ahead and get another EK 280 performance for my x99 possibly it was jealous of the x299's


----------



## l Nuke l

hey guys so i got some noctua industrial 3000rpm fans for my h115i and they pull to much power to be connected to the splitter. I want to connect the fans individually into cpu and cpu out fan headers on mobo and the 3 pin h115i pump header into the mobos aio header. manual says aio header runs at 100% default. My question is if i set it up this way will the h115i pump be running at max speed? How would i know if it is?


----------



## hhuey5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *l Nuke l*
> 
> hey guys so i got some noctua industrial 3000rpm fans for my h115i and they pull to much power to be connected to the splitter. I want to connect the fans individually into cpu and cpu out fan headers on mobo and the 3 pin h115i pump header into the mobos aio header. manual says aio header runs at 100% default. My question is if i set it up this way will the h115i pump be running at max speed? How would i know if it is?


i've been planning to do this since last year to do the same but with h110i GTX ; for me its just long term building of my next build ; getting ddr4 next year

now you got me looking at the issue via google
Quote:


> The unwritten standard for mobo fan headers is 1 Amp, or 12W at 12V. You can't "borrow" power from one header to be used on another, the circuitry is not that strong and not designed to channel all the potential fan header power into one header.Nov 14, 2012
> Asrock Z77 Extreme 4 - Max Power for Fan Header ? - TweakTown Forums


The noctua industrial 3000rpm eats 6.6watts=100% vs 12 Watt Max off the cpu fan port

it looks like to get max ability we need to use two cpu fan ports or else with one we're running at 91% efficiency on splitter

If I wanted to run two pwm fans per fan header ; it be 6.6W+1.7W => 8.3WATTS assuming controls are doing % of power vs RPM ; so thats 8.3Watts on each of the two cpu fan headers ; side effect my reg fans would be changing rpm as well (most likely I wont do this idea )

I only have 5 fan headers so to run the rest of my fans will be on Grid+ V3 which has 6 ports


----------



## l Nuke l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hhuey5*
> 
> i've been planning to do this since last year to do the same but with h110i GTX ; for me its just long term building of my next build ; getting ddr4 next year
> 
> now you got me looking at the issue via google
> The noctua industrial 3000rpm eats 6.6watts=100% vs 12 Watt Max off the cpu fan port
> 
> it looks like to get max ability we need to use two cpu fan ports or else with one we're running at 91% efficiency on splitter
> 
> If I wanted to run two pwm fans per fan header ; it be 6.6W+1.7W => 8.3WATTS assuming controls are doing % of power vs RPM ; so thats 8.3Watts on each of the two cpu fan headers ; side effect my reg fans would be changing rpm as well (most likely I wont do this idea )
> 
> I only have 5 fan headers so to run the rest of my fans will be on Grid+ V3 which has 6 ports


yeah thats alot to think about. Do you know if i plug the 3pin pump header into the mobos aio pump header ill get 100% pump speed with the h115i?


----------



## hhuey5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *l Nuke l*
> 
> yeah thats alot to think about. Do you know if i plug the 3pin pump header into the mobos aio pump header ill get 100% pump speed with the h115i?


lol you got me thinking again ; i check my z97 build ; pump runs off cpu pump header ; this I presuming is providing more power than fans
this header also controls the pump speed ; this is how our AIO work


----------



## Wabbit16

Yesterday my lovely H80i started with a grinding/rattling sound from the pump area.

I have already logged a ticket with Corsair just to check whether they would cover it, but I am afraid it will be going back to the retailer shortly. The sad thing is I paid R1113 for it back then and the replacement (H80i V2) is a few bucks pricier, plus I will have to pay for shipping there and back which will set me back closer to R1800.

Just in time for Christmas


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*
> 
> Yesterday my lovely H80i started with a grinding/rattling sound from the pump area.
> 
> I have already logged a ticket with Corsair just to check whether they would cover it, but I am afraid it will be going back to the retailer shortly. The sad thing is I paid R1113 for it back then and the replacement (H80i V2) is a few bucks pricier, plus I will have to pay for shipping there and back which will set me back closer to R1800.
> 
> Just in time for Christmas


Corsair coolers have a four or five year warranty, so if you still have your bill of sale they will likely help you out.


----------



## Wabbit16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Corsair coolers have a four or five year warranty, so if you still have your bill of sale they will likely help you out.


Correct, I seem to still be covered by the warranty up until the end of September of next year. However, I would rather check with Corsair directly as a precaution. I'd hate to courier the H80i to the retailer only for them to tell me that the pump noise will not be sufficient for them to replace it and/or risk damaging it during shipping AND then still be liable for the shipping fees.

Our couriers are pretty rough on shipped items despite the millions of Fragile stickers on the items I have shipped out and received. Seeing as I am not doing any heavy overclocking I may revert back to air cooling, but all this will depend on whether or not I will be able to have it replaced or repaired

EDIT: I just remembered about a year ago the blue LED on the pump module stopped working but since it's nothing serious I didn't worry about having it repaired. I guess I have one more thing for Corsair to fix on my unit...


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*
> 
> Correct, I seem to still be covered by the warranty up until the end of September of next year. However, I would rather check with Corsair directly as a precaution. I'd hate to courier the H80i to the retailer only for them to tell me that the pump noise will not be sufficient for them to replace it and/or risk damaging it during shipping AND then still be liable for the shipping fees.
> 
> Our couriers are pretty rough on shipped items despite the millions of Fragile stickers on the items I have shipped out and received. Seeing as I am not doing any heavy overclocking I may revert back to air cooling, but all this will depend on whether or not I will be able to have it replaced or repaired


in my experience with corsair so far they have shipped out a new product off the shelf when I've had to RMA something (I've had a few things rma'd over the last decade including the original h80 which they replaced with a h80igt for nothing more than the cost of one way shipping, 2 psu's a set of vengeance ram and a couple of led fans, my biggest gripe with any of it was the need to ship overseas, on the other hand apart from amazon most vendors dont replace stuff outside of the 3 month limited store warranty) its one of the main reasons why i still buy corsair over some of the other vendors, that and they have long warranty periods (10 years on the psu's and 5 years on the aio's and 24 months on everything else I've bought is pretty long compared to other vendors)


----------



## Wabbit16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> in my experience with corsair so far they have shipped out a new product off the shelf when I've had to RMA something (I've had a few things rma'd over the last decade including the original h80 which they replaced with a h80igt for nothing more than the cost of one way shipping, 2 psu's a set of vengeance ram and a couple of led fans, my biggest gripe with any of it was the need to ship overseas, on the other hand apart from amazon most vendors dont replace stuff outside of the 3 month limited store warranty) its one of the main reasons why i still buy corsair over some of the other vendors, that and they have long warranty periods (10 years on the psu's and 5 years on the aio's and 24 months on everything else I've bought is pretty long compared to other vendors)


That's pretty good on their part, I must say. I don't expect them to upgrade me for free by handing out a newer model, but I do understand that the H80i is EOL and I suspect the store will just give me credit to the original purchase value back in 2013 with which to purchase something else. Unless I go the RMA route, of course, but getting it shipped here will probably cost as much as the cooler did back in 2013 anyway


----------



## RichKnecht

My Corsair link went blank today. H100i V2 stuck in quiet mode and temps creeping up as I work. I think it's time to call it quits and get a real cooler.


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*
> 
> That's pretty good on their part, I must say. I don't expect them to upgrade me for free by handing out a newer model, but I do understand that the H80i is EOL and I suspect the store will just give me credit to the original purchase value back in 2013 with which to purchase something else. Unless I go the RMA route, of course, but getting it shipped here will probably cost as much as the cooler did back in 2013 anyway


yeah well its well worth checking with corsair theres every chance they will offer a like for like replacement, when the second hx1050 went down after 18months of use they replaced it with a hx1200w unit because they didn't have any 1050's left

with the cooler i did it through the advance replacement thing so they shipped me the new unit and i sent the old one back in the return packaging the only downside to using that method was i had to use my credit card and they put a hold on the value of the aio they shipped until the broken one arrived back with them, so it greatly depends on where you live (I'm in the UK and i was shipping to their Dutch warehouse) i guess the service offered might vary in different regions though


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*
> 
> That's pretty good on their part, I must say. I don't expect them to upgrade me for free by handing out a newer model, but I do understand that the H80i is EOL and I suspect the store will just give me credit to the original purchase value back in 2013 with which to purchase something else. Unless I go the RMA route, of course, but getting it shipped here will probably cost as much as the cooler did back in 2013 anyway


Corsair will likely just replace it for you. By all means get an RMA from them first though. They may not accept it if you ship it without contacting them first.


----------



## stephenn82

Exactly! Contact them...they are pretty good people.

My buddy accidently connected the pump header from his h100i v2 to USB..cooked it! He submitted an RMA stating his pump doesnt seem to work, fans wont spin...they accepted and replaced his h100i v2.

You will never know if you dont ask. Whats the worst they can do, tell you know?


----------



## Wabbit16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> yeah well its well worth checking with corsair theres every chance they will offer a like for like replacement, when the second hx1050 went down after 18months of use they replaced it with a hx1200w unit because they didn't have any 1050's left
> 
> with the cooler i did it through the advance replacement thing so they shipped me the new unit and i sent the old one back in the return packaging the only downside to using that method was i had to use my credit card and they put a hold on the value of the aio they shipped until the broken one arrived back with them, so it greatly depends on where you live (I'm in the UK and i was shipping to their Dutch warehouse) i guess the service offered might vary in different regions though


I have heard of this advance replacement thing - will definitely look into it as it's a pretty critical part of the system and I doubt my 3770k will be happy with no cooler during this summer









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Corsair will likely just replace it for you. By all means get an RMA from them first though. They may not accept it if you ship it without contacting them first.


Thanks! Will follow this process after I hear back from them
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> Exactly! Contact them...they are pretty good people.
> 
> My buddy accidently connected the pump header from his h100i v2 to USB..cooked it! He submitted an RMA stating his pump doesnt seem to work, fans wont spin...they accepted and replaced his h100i v2.
> 
> You will never know if you dont ask. Whats the worst they can do, tell you know?


One way to find out...


----------



## ThrashZone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> Exactly! Contact them...they are pretty good people.
> 
> You will never know if you dont ask. Whats the worst they can do, tell you know?


Hi,
They can say yes on the rma
Then you can waste your money on shipping the item back to them
Then say No and charge you for the return trip back to you.

These products aren't worth
1) All the hoops to jump through to ship back.which both ways ups is nearly 60.us for a product that costs 140.us new.
2) So they can send you another (Recycled) unit back to you even if one qualifies for a replacement it will not be new only repackage failed units.
3) Waiting weeks for a used *refurbished* replacement with the warranty is the same starting point as the original was.

Tossing in the garbage the failed unit and saving shipping (because the shipper is the only winner here) is the best way to go


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThrashZone*
> 
> Hi,
> They can say yes on the rma
> Then you can waste your money on shipping the item back to them
> Then say No and charge you for the return trip back to you.
> 
> These products aren't worth
> 1) All the hoops to jump through to ship back.which both ways ups is nearly 60.us for a product that costs 140.us new.
> 2) So they can send you another (Recycled) unit back to you even if one qualifies for a replacement it will not be new only repackage failed units.
> 3) Waiting weeks for a used *refurbished* replacement with the warranty is the same starting point as the original was.
> 
> Tossing in the garbage the failed unit and saving shipping (because the shipper is the only winner here) is the best way to go


I really don't know where you get your information from.

I have made use of Corsair's return policy and they did not send me a refurbished unit.
Even if they did, I wouldn't care. As a computer tech, I see first hand how dumb most people are when I comes to computers. Even "enthusiasts" can be as dumb as a post. I would be willing to bet most of the returns Corsair gets actually don't have anything wrong with them.
I sold a 100% working H70 a few years back because I upgraded to an H100. The guy I sold it to was using a V8. I tried to talk him out of buying it, and told him I doubt he would see much of a temperature difference. Sure enough, within two days he was whining that he didn't think the cooler was working. I knew it was because I had been using it in my PC. I asked him how he knew it wasn't working, and he said because his finger was hot when he touched the side of the cpu and the pump. I asked if he had any temp monitoring software installed, and he said no I told him to install it, join ocn and we would help him set it up. He never did. Called me once more saying he wanted his money back. I told him where to go. I sold it as is, without fans, for half price even though it was only one year old. I asked him if he saw a Best Buy logo on my car when I brought it over.

So, I really believe most of the returns Corsair gets are user error, not device error. Same goes with a lot of other companies.

I can ship out a cooler to Corsair for $30 Canadian, and get my return back a few weeks later, saving myself about $175-$200 Canadian depending on the model. Why would I just throw away that much money by not returning a product for replacement?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Well for one you forgot you paying for return shipping + another 30.
Two I'm in the u.s. and prices are a lot cheaper here than in Canada the 110 gt is only about 130.us New.

Blowing 60 and waiting 2-3 weeks for a (we'll just say replacement) is in it's self not doable
Expediting only costs more for shipping thus makes it even less doable than just buying a new one locally.

In-store warranty is the only way to go
One takes it back and exchanges it for a new one or store credit and buys something else all in one afternoon.


----------



## RichKnecht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThrashZone*
> 
> Hi,
> Well for one you forgot you paying for return shipping + another 30.
> Two I'm in the u.s. and prices are a lot cheaper here than in Canada the 110 gt is only about 130.us New.
> 
> Blowing 60 and waiting 2-3 weeks for a (we'll just say replacement) is in it's self not doable
> Expediting only costs more for shipping thus makes it even less doable than just buying a new one locally.
> 
> In-store warranty is the only way to go
> One takes it back and exchanges it for a new one or store credit and buys something else all in one afternoon.


They do stand behind their products. As for store credit/warranty, I am lucky enough to have a Microcenter close by. I just bought my 110i V2 back and got an EK l240 kit instead. Harder to install, but worth the time.


----------



## LostParticle

Corsair replaced my H110 for no reason. For a simple discoloration of the cold-plate I got a brand new H110. No, it was not a refurbishment. It cost me 5 (five) euro to send it from my country to the Netherlands. It was considered "a heavy letter" from the National Postage Service of my country, so five euros I paid. Here, it costs 124 euro right now.

Oh, and I have never paid any return shipment costs. I remember they e-mailed me a label or something, I printed it, and placed it on the... "envelope" (= Corsair H110 package)...

I love them!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Mine worked for 30 months and just died
Being rid of corsair link is enough to celebrate


----------



## LostParticle

I'm sorry, really








I never used Link because it's not meant for my H110.
Best of luck with your next cooler


----------



## RichKnecht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThrashZone*
> 
> Hi,
> Mine worked for 30 months and just died
> Being rid of corsair link is enough to celebrate


That's why I just returned this H110i. I just bought it last week and Corsair link went blank and the cooler locked up in quiet mode. With the OC I have going on here, my temps were hitting almost 45 degrees at idle. When I was working on the PC they were hovering around 78. Now I am at 65 under load with the EK and it is


----------



## Gen Patton

I have the ml series they work great in Motoko. To me there are not loud but that is just me. I have the 120 and the 140 mm. The 120 i switch out on my cosair rad, and the 140 are in the front of motoko.


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gen Patton*
> 
> 
> I have the ml series they work great in Motoko. To me there are not loud but that is just me. I have the 120 and the 130 140 mm.


FTFY no charge









and yeah i have the ml pro's as well in my system, funny thing i originally ordered 5 different fans and the ml's were the ones that won out for noise and despite coming with led's were cheaper than several of the others i tried (silent running pwm cooler and case fans seem hard to come by)


----------



## Gen Patton

Yea your gonna have some noise no matter what you do, i just deal with it as long as Motoko is happy i am happy.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThrashZone*
> 
> Hi,
> Well for one you forgot you paying for return shipping + another 30.
> Two I'm in the u.s. and prices are a lot cheaper here than in Canada the 110 gt is only about 130.us New.
> 
> Blowing 60 and waiting 2-3 weeks for a (we'll just say replacement) is in it's self not doable
> Expediting only costs more for shipping thus makes it even less doable than just buying a new one locally.
> 
> In-store warranty is the only way to go
> One takes it back and exchanges it for a new one or store credit and buys something else all in one afternoon.


It was a while ago, but I don't think I paid for return shipping.

Maybe someone who has had a more recent return can enlighten us as to exactly what Corsair covers in a return now. When I needed an RMA, I do not recall being unhappy about added costs. Most companies we deal with where I work pay the return shipping, with a few exceptions.


----------



## Wabbit16

I'll post up here if I end up doing an RMA.

I logged a ticket on Monday, still waiting for a reply from them. I'll follow up tomorrow if I haven't heard anything from them


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> FTFY no charge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and yeah i have the ml pro's as well in my system, funny thing i originally ordered 5 different fans and the ml's were the ones that won out for noise and despite coming with led's were cheaper than several of the others i tried (silent running pwm cooler and case fans seem hard to come by)


I am also using the ML Pro 140mm fans in my 760T case. They are very nice fans for sure, but now I'm kicking myself for not waiting and getting the RGB fans. I'm not a big fan of the RGB control software for most companies. Reed enough reviews and I can always find people having software problems, but I might be willing to work that out for RGB. Too bad, the blue ML fans I have not work well and we're pretty pricy so I just can't justify replacing them.
Oh well, at least I still have the HUE RGB LED strip and controller.


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I am also using the ML Pro 140mm fans in my 760T case. They are very nice fans for sure, but now I'm kicking myself for not waiting and getting the RGB fans. I'm not a big fan of the RGB control software for most companies. Reed enough reviews and I can always find people having software problems, but I might be willing to work that out for RGB. Too bad, the blue ML fans I have not work well and we're pretty pricy so I just can't justify replacing them.
> Oh well, at least I still have the HUE RGB LED strip and controller.


yeah the rgb stuff is way to pricy though, when your talking about £30 per fan for something thats only doing half the airflow at top speed its just too much for not enough

of course some folks will feel differently and that stuff is really cool to look at but looks only goes so far, so whilst i would like them because there cool to look at the price is too much, one of my kids wants them and a lighting strip but since he started work he's refusing to pay more than a weeks wages to set up his pc with "cool" especially where theres beer in the world


----------



## Mergatroid

I agree, but there isn't so much of a performance issue if you just use those fans as case fans. On a rad it would be more critical. My Case has great airflow so I might be willing to give them a try.

Oh well, there's no point now. The ML fans work really well, and look pretty good. Too bad they can't be converted to RGB.


----------



## d3v0

Guys, how excited are you for the H115i PRO 360MM and 280MM Coolers? They have "RGB" but really its just on the pump head (who cares) and I am rather upset it isnt shipping with LED ML140s. I hope they offer that option. I dont want to buy ML140 Non-LED, then have to buy LED versions and sell the non-led for pennies on the dollar.

https://wccftech.com/corsair-h150i-pro-rgb-360-mm-corsair-115i-pro-leaked/

I am estimating this will be on stock Jan 1, 2018.


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Guys, how excited are you for the H115i PRO 360MM and 280MM Coolers? They have "RGB" but really its just on the pump head (who cares) and I am rather upset it isnt shipping with LED ML140s. I hope they offer that option. I dont want to buy ML140 Non-LED, then have to buy LED versions and sell the non-led for pennies on the dollar.
> 
> https://wccftech.com/corsair-h150i-pro-rgb-360-mm-corsair-115i-pro-leaked/
> 
> I am estimating this will be on stock Jan 1, 2018.


they might do a few limited edition kits with the full commander pro + led strip and rgb fans but i wouldn't expect it to be a mainstream thing since those parts are super expensive

also corsair ships there coolers with those nasty dual tone fans because they make more money on people buying the led ones as aftermarket upgrades, and i wouldn't expect them to ship via stores as anything other than plain none led fans

the new look pump unit is nicer than current pumps and who knows it might even provide full contact for the new cpu ihs instead of just sitting around the centre of them ....

if i didn't already have a h115i upgraded with some ml pro led fans i might be excited for them but since i do i might want them in about 4 years when its time for an upgrade


----------



## d3v0

Can you tell me how you like the H115i with the ML140s? I heard you have to provide full 12v for them but the H115i doesnt have the right adapters. I would have to place them in my CPU_Fan and CPU_Fan_opt slots. Makes me want to go with the TT 360MM Riing 3.0 instead. But my H50 has been so good to me.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Can you tell me how you like the H115i with the ML140s? I heard you have to provide full 12v for them but the H115i doesnt have the right adapters. I would have to place them in my CPU_Fan and CPU_Fan_opt slots. Makes me want to go with the TT 360MM Riing 3.0 instead. But my H50 has been so good to me.


Me?

I have the ML140 in bottom of my case...and the stock SP140L on the H115i.

If this question was for someone else, please disregard









But the ML140 have 4 pin header...the H115i has two 4 pin connectors, and run PWM...so the MagLev's will work with the harness...what makes you think it wont?



You may have found this, adding to your confusion.
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/710473-replacing-h115i-stock-fans-ml140-pro-led/

read here though to resolve it
http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=159946

If you are still worried, connect the ML to a PWM splitter and run it off of the CPU_OPT header if you want, in PWM mode. Link will control the fan speeds via PWM via USB. the mb 3 pin is only a tachometer.


----------



## d3v0

Oh, Ive been all over the internet trying to figure out if theyll work together, i heard that the two 4 pins dont provide enough juice for two ML140s and they make noise.


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Oh, Ive been all over the internet trying to figure out if theyll work together, i heard that the two 4 pins dont provide enough juice for two ML140s and they make noise.


They provide enough juice for the 12v PWM SP140L's which are GREAT as a stock fan BTW...just dont have RGB.

ML140 power draw is 12VDC with .202 amp 2.4 watts (according to Corsair's site...mine have .259 on back making it 3.1 watts)

SP140L are 12VDC with .36 amp... 4.32 watts

I think the h115 has enough juice to push them, requiring almost 1/2 the power of the fans that come on it.


----------



## Wabbit16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*
> 
> I'll post up here if I end up doing an RMA.
> 
> I logged a ticket on Monday, still waiting for a reply from them. I'll follow up tomorrow if I haven't heard anything from them


Still no reply. Guess it's time to fire up Twitter again...


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*
> 
> Still no reply. Guess it's time to fire up Twitter again...


Did you try to PM one of the Corsair reps on here?


----------



## Wabbit16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Did you try to PM one of the Corsair reps on here?


They have reps on here? Well colo(u)r me impressed. I'll fire them a PM shortly


----------



## moodlover

Hi guys, will my Noctua Chromax NF-A14 PWM fans work on an H115i? I am looking to swap out the default fans and wanted to know if the cooler can power the fans properly. Wondering if I made the wrong decision by buying Chromax NF-A14 (2.0 static pressure) as opposed to iPPC NF-A14 2000RPM (4.0 static pressure). Was trying to avoid too much noise, but now wondering if I made a mistake by buying weaker fans. Plan is to keep CPU at 5GHz

P.S. thoughts on NF-A14 fans vs ML140 PRO which costs nearly double for the 2-pack? Are the ML140's performance/noise that much better than NF-A14? I know it has 1.0 higher static pressure on spec sheets but how about reality?


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moodlover*
> 
> Hi guys, will my Noctua Chromax NF-A14 PWM fans work on an H115i? I am looking to swap out the default fans and wanted to know if the cooler can power the fans properly. Wondering if I made the wrong decision by buying Chromax NF-A14 (2.0 static pressure) as opposed to iPPC NF-A14 2000RPM (4.0 static pressure). Was trying to avoid too much noise, but now wondering if I made a mistake by buying weaker fans. Plan is to keep CPU at 5GHz
> 
> P.S. thoughts on NF-A14 fans vs ML140 PRO which costs nearly double for the 2-pack? Are the ML140's performance/noise that much better than NF-A14? I know it has 1.0 higher static pressure on spec sheets but how about reality?


https://noctua.at/en/nf-a14-pwm/specification max current of .13a They also have Static Pressure of 2.08mm

SP140L are .305a input. Static pressure of 3.99.

Why swap? If anything, get ML140's They are quite, use less power, move more air, etc. Only step up from SP140L in my eyes...without fancy lighting. but they have lit versions of them too...at 32 dollars a piece.

You can tune down the fan curves of your h115i as well to drop the noise. just set to quiet and then modify curves under load. Default it cranks up a lot when hitting load. Take the balanced curve and lower the idle side to match quiet...got yourself a good setup.


----------



## moodlover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> https://noctua.at/en/nf-a14-pwm/specification max current of .13a They also have Static Pressure of 2.08mm
> 
> SP140L are .305a input. Static pressure of 3.99.
> 
> Why swap? If anything, get ML140's They are quite, use less power, move more air, etc. Only step up from SP140L in my eyes...without fancy lighting. but they have lit versions of them too...at 32 dollars a piece.
> 
> You can tune down the fan curves of your h115i as well to drop the noise. just set to quiet and then modify curves under load. Default it cranks up a lot when hitting load. Take the balanced curve and lower the idle side to match quiet...got yourself a good setup.


I was trying to get fans that move more air and are quieter without adjusting fan curve. The default H115i fans are noisey as hell. Was the Chromax a mistake then?


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moodlover*
> 
> I was trying to get fans that move more air and are quieter without adjusting fan curve. The default H115i fans are noisey as hell. Was the Chromax a mistake then?


how are they noisy? Did you install Link and change the profile? Once you do that, you can write this to the device and then disconnect the USB cable to minimize all of the wires in your box. Man, about 5 minutes behind the mouse could have saved you money and your ears...lol


----------



## moodlover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> Once you do that, you can write this to the device and then disconnect the USB cable to minimize all of the wires in your box. Man, about 5 minutes behind the mouse could have saved you money and your ears...lol


Wait really? I had no idea the H115i could save profile internally if you remove the USB? Definitely interested in removing as many wires as I can.

Question for you though, changing to a slower fan profile result in drop of RPM and thus drop of static pressure. Would swapping out the default fans for Noctua A14's achieve the same thing?

Reviews of ML140 say they are very noisy. I am looking for a good balance between noise to performance and Noctua seems to have the best balance. Have to say I am worried that they only push out half the static pressure however. Might have to return them before I open them if I can find a better fan to swap with


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moodlover*
> 
> Wait really? I had no idea the H115i could save profile internally if you remove the USB? Definitely interested in removing as many wires as I can.
> 
> Question for you though, changing to a slower fan profile result in drop of RPM and thus drop of static pressure. Would swapping out the default fans for Noctua A14's achieve the same thing?
> 
> Reviews of ML140 say they are very noisy. I am looking for a good balance between noise to performance and Noctua seems to have the best balance. Have to say I am worried that they only push out half the static pressure however. Might have to return them before I open them if I can find a better fan to swap with


maybe for noctua fan boys in my experience the ml's make less noise at the same speeds and theres little to no difference in cooling at any given speed

and yes you really can save any profile you like via link interface and then both disconnect the usb lead and uninstall link software, some folks like that sort of thing me i prefer to have the software and the link cable to let me know if theres a pump problem or the cooler for some reason isn't doing the job properly /


----------



## moodlover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> maybe for noctua fan boys in my experience the ml's make less noise at the same speeds and theres little to no difference in cooling at any given speed
> 
> and yes you really can save any profile you like via link interface and then both disconnect the usb lead and uninstall link software, some folks like that sort of thing me i prefer to have the software and the link cable to let me know if theres a pump problem or the cooler for some reason isn't doing the job properly /


Hmm okay so do you think I should exchange my Chromax A14 140mms for ML140 PROs like this one here for my H115i?

I feel stupid for getting suckered into the Noctua hype without doing the number research, but then again, almost every review said the Noctuas were more silent at load rpm's. Maybe thats because the Chromax is not the Industrial version and not made for water coolers (yet their website says they are)


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moodlover*
> 
> Hmm okay so do you think I should exchange my Chromax A14 140mms for ML140 PROs like this one here for my H115i?
> 
> I feel stupid for getting suckered into the Noctua hype without doing the number research, but then again, almost every review said the Noctuas were more silent at load rpm's. Maybe thats because the Chromax is not the Industrial version and not made for water coolers (yet their website says they are)


if you only just got the noctua's then yeah its worth swapping them, although the fans that came wiht the h115 are better than the noctua's as well once you swap over to something like the silent profile


----------



## d3v0

If we followed our instincts and stayed away from the tan and brown fans maybe wed be better off. Every thread, "hey what fans should I get" there are tons of people who dump in with "noctua /thread" and its ridiculous anymore.


----------



## moodlover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> If we followed our instincts and stayed away from the tan and brown fans maybe wed be better off. Every thread, "hey what fans should I get" there are tons of people who dump in with "noctua /thread" and its ridiculous anymore.


Hah, you say follow your instinct as if everyones natural instinct is to ignore a highly regarded brand. As if Noctua has a reputation for making bad fans or something. Im not sure how anything you said adds to this discussion. I was trying to figure out the differences between the stock fans and if the NF-A14s were a good substitute in regards to noiseerformance. If they arent a good substitute, then they arent. I am here with an open mind looking for the best way to go for me, not to downplay one brand or another.

Besides, Noctua's most popular fans comes in black now, its called Chromax or iPPC. The ugly colors thing is of the past, catch up to the present my friend


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*
> 
> They have reps on here? Well colo(u)r me impressed. I'll fire them a PM shortly


Yep, they definitely do.


----------



## moodlover

Ill throw another curveball into this. Bitwit on YouTube tested LL140 (1.5 static pressure) vs SP140L (3.99 static pressure) in this video (clicking will jump to the results). Results were:

SP140L: 77 degrees for CPU
LL140: 67 degrees CPU!!!

How in the world is that possible when the SP on the LL140 fans is so much lower?


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moodlover*
> 
> Ill throw another curveball into this. Bitwit on YouTube tested LL140 (1.5 static pressure) vs SP140L (3.99 static pressure) in this video (clicking will jump to the results). Results were:
> 
> SP140L: 77 degrees for CPU
> LL140: 67 degrees CPU!!!
> 
> How in the world is that possible when the SP on the LL140 fans is so much lower?


This test seems to be flawed.

Why use a program that hardly loads a CPU to test fans? What profile was selected in Link? Are the LL140 just maglevs with different lights on them, like the RGB ring? If yes, then THAT is why they are better. I keep pausing video to write my thoughts...in video and on here. Almost 1/4 into it. Also, one fan at say a pulse width of 40% modulation will result in different RPM than the second fan. The SP140L have a slightyl smaller RPM range compared to maglev's so a 40% modulation on a slower RPM fan wont spin as fast as one with a larger range..if that makes sense to you?

If 40% on fan A nets 1400 RPM on a range of 600-2350 it will net 1050 rpm on a fan that spins up to 2100 rpm. My fans SP140L, spin about 1050 rpm in balanced as default until fluid temps reach 32c.

a 1300 RPM rating...probably not maglev then.


----------



## moodlover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> Why use a program that hardly loads a CPU to test fans? What profile was selected in Link? Are the LL140 just maglevs with different lights on them, like the RGB ring? If yes, then THAT is why they are better. I keep pausing video to write my thoughts...in video and on here.


First, regardless of whether or not the program stresses a CPU to the max, the same level stress is placed in both tests so the comparison should be fair

Are the LL140 just maglevs with different lights on them, like the RGB ring > no, LL140 has static pressure of 1.5. ML140 Pros have static pressure of 3.0

Regardless of fan profile if the LL140 was running on 100% and it was still quieter + offer better cooling than the SP140L then its still a better fan if one was to accept 67C as the lowest temp they needed

This is a strange case indeed, someone needs to debunk or verify this. Someone much smarter than myself


----------



## stephenn82

indeed, it is strange. I have been swapping through tabs and sites. It is odd. Better fan blade design for air flow? The radiators fin section is only bout 20-25mm...just a regular air flow fan would work great.

I find it odd that a 120mm fan has better CFM and pressure compared to a 140...the SP120 led and SP140 led are like that. Still doesnt explain why a stock fan sucks compared to a limited rpm range and less pressure...unless the LL140 moves more air. could be. At lower RPM;s mind you. if stock flor 49cfm at quiet and these flow 51.5, could be.

He can retest these, both at max speed of 1300rpm and check again. I still think the SP140L dont really flow well until over 1500 rpm. This is the point where they get loud. Like almost yate-loon loud lol


----------



## moodlover

Well he tested LL140 which are 140mm fans not 120

LL140 specs (click tech specs): http://www.corsair.com/en-us/ll140-rgb-140mm-dual-light-loop-rgb-led-pwm-fan-single-pack

SP140L default fans (static pressure specs at bottom): http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-h115i-280mm-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler

So confusing how this is possible and no one called Bitwit out on it to provide any type of data


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moodlover*
> 
> Well he tested LL140 which are 140mm fans not 120
> 
> LL140 specs (click tech specs): http://www.corsair.com/en-us/ll140-rgb-140mm-dual-light-loop-rgb-led-pwm-fan-single-pack
> 
> SP140L default fans (static pressure specs at bottom): http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-h115i-280mm-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler
> 
> So confusing how this is possible and no one called Bitwit out on it to provide any type of data


I get it, my post is messy. Dont science when going on 4 hours of sleep...or post for that matter.

I am NOT confusing those fans with the others. My thread etiquette is off.

I was saying that a 120 had more flow than a 140 of same line.
http://www.corsair.com/en-us/air-series-sp120-led-green-high-static-pressure-120mm-fan See it here on tech specs.

The thing with these fans is the blade pitch and design, and the optimal speeds for each. It looks as if you want some fancy lights and quieter performance, and three additional items to hook up, go for it. Drop 100 bucks on top of that 120 or so for your cooler. (220 for an AIO? almost into 249.99 basic kit from EK OR their new A240G kit!) Whatever floats your boat may sink someone else's schooner. I will stick with my stocker AIO. I game with headset. I can put 100 bucks towards a reservoir for my new D5 pump. and maybe soft hose. Then sell my H115i for more parts. Someone else may go for some fancy lit fans for the AIO, and be totally happy. All for them being happy with what they want.


----------



## Wabbit16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Yep, they definitely do.


Well, I messaged CorsairGeorge about a day and a half ago but I haven't had any response yet. It's been six days since I logged my initial ticket so I really unsure of how to proceed next









EDIT: Corsair Support just replied by approving my RMA, but sadly insured shipping fees there and back will cost me more than a new cooler would cost me locally so I may just sit with it for now and invest in some earplugs


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*
> 
> Well, I messaged CorsairGeorge about a day and a half ago but I haven't had any response yet. It's been six days since I logged my initial ticket so I really unsure of how to proceed next
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Corsair Support just replied by approving my RMA, but sadly insured shipping fees there and back will cost me more than a new cooler would cost me locally so I may just sit with it for now and invest in some earplugs


Ouch!


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*
> 
> Well, I messaged CorsairGeorge about a day and a half ago but I haven't had any response yet. It's been six days since I logged my initial ticket so I really unsure of how to proceed next
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Corsair Support just replied by approving my RMA, but sadly insured shipping fees there and back will cost me more than a new cooler would cost me locally so I may just sit with it for now and invest in some earplugs


well if you wanted to branch into custom cooling wiht a water block pump and res you can reuse the rad from the knackered AIO

and if your not going to send it back then theres no reason not to try fixing the pump, its only a couple of screws on the underside of the block to take apart the unit, although if its making a knocking kind of noise it likes means the loop needs topping up and the only way to add fluid is throug the bottom of the water block.

i certianly would be tempted to self help in your situation if its already not working properly your loosing nothing by playing with it, and there are a fair number of video's available online to help you with dissassembly and selection of suitable fluids for topping the loop back up wiht once youve drained and cleaned it out, might even be worthwhile getting a couple of new hoses so you cna fully pull it all apart and put it back to gether

either way good luck with it


----------



## Wabbit16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> well if you wanted to branch into custom cooling wiht a water block pump and res you can reuse the rad from the knackered AIO
> 
> and if your not going to send it back then theres no reason not to try fixing the pump, its only a couple of screws on the underside of the block to take apart the unit, although if its making a knocking kind of noise it likes means the loop needs topping up and the only way to add fluid is throug the bottom of the water block.
> 
> i certianly would be tempted to self help in your situation if its already not working properly your loosing nothing by playing with it, and there are a fair number of video's available online to help you with dissassembly and selection of suitable fluids for topping the loop back up wiht once youve drained and cleaned it out, might even be worthwhile getting a couple of new hoses so you cna fully pull it all apart and put it back to gether
> 
> either way good luck with it


Thanks, luck may be what I need! I logged a request with the supplier to see if they will replace it or refund me.

If they replace with a new unit, I may sell it and buy either a high end air cooler. If they aren't able to repair it, I'll ask for it back and fix it myself. I took the H80i out of my system today and replaced it with a stock Intel cooler as a temporary measure - sad what my life has become


----------



## stephenn82

at least the PC is working for now, right?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Guys, how excited are you for the H115i PRO 360MM and 280MM Coolers? They have "RGB" but really its just on the pump head (who cares) and I am rather upset it isnt shipping with LED ML140s. I hope they offer that option. I dont want to buy ML140 Non-LED, then have to buy LED versions and sell the non-led for pennies on the dollar.
> 
> https://wccftech.com/corsair-h150i-pro-rgb-360-mm-corsair-115i-pro-leaked/
> 
> I am estimating this will be on stock Jan 1, 2018.


Corsair really seems to be late on the 360mm rad. For my personal rig, I gave away my H100 and installed a Thermaltake 360 last Christmas. I got the non RGB version because the RGB version was just too expensive

It may be nice to have an option where they sell it with RGB fans, but for many people that pushes it up a little too much price wise. I personally wish they would sell the rads without fans. I would like to chose my own fans. Same goes with the cases. I always end up replacing the fans anyway, so let me purchase rads and cases without fans. It would save me a lot of money, and help me empty out a few drawers full of new fans I have.

So now I'm using a 360mm Thermaltake AIO in a Corsair 760T case. Not really a big deal, but I would have purchased a Corsair cooler if they had 360mm at the time.

Heck, I would have bought a 420mm if one was available, just to keep the 140mm fans all the same. I also would have bought RGB fans over the summer if they were available in the ML version. I love these ML fans, and don't really want to give them up. I have four of the blue MLs in my case right now, but they would be RGB if they were available at the time.

So, in my opinion, the way to sell an AIO cooler is without fans. It makes the cooler less expensive and allows you to customise it the way you want to.

As a final thought, I would also like RGB fans that can be controlled from a motherboard. I'm not interested in the link at all. It's just another layer of software and hardware I don't need. I already have an RGB controller, with standard connectors instead of proprietary. Newer main boards also have excellent controllers built in as well. Give me a 420mm cooler with no link and I might purchase it. Right now I am sort of in the market for some 120mm RGB fans that I can plug into my RGB controller. I'm not in a rush though since I already have some RGB lighting.

I just put together a build for a client using a very well built, inexpensive mid tower from Cooler Master with three RGB fans up front that plugged directly into an ASUS motherboard. It was awesome. Everything worked perfectly and that case was very well built, for about $105 Canadian.

I think Corsair needs to see what the competition is doing because this link stuff really just sucks. It's completely redundant in a modern PC. At worst it adds complexity and incompatibility we can all do without.


----------



## RichKnecht

Just a heads up for those looking for better fans for their coolers. Try and find some original fans for the Corsair H100 (1st gen). They are loud at full speed, but provide 95cfm @ 7.2mm H2O. At 50% power they are near silent and still move quite a bit of air. I had a couple laying around and recently swapped out my EK Vardars for them and saw a temp drop of 6 degrees.


----------



## Wabbit16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> at least the PC is working for now, right?


Indeed it is. The supplier messaged me this morning and said I can proceed with sending it to them which I'll do this afternoon. They are closing for the festive season soon so I'll probably only get it in the new year, though

Sent from my Redmi Note 4 using Tapatalk


----------



## d3v0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Corsair really seems to be late on the 360mm rad.
> 
> So now I'm using a 360mm Thermaltake AIO in a Corsair 760T case. Not really a big deal, but I would have purchased a Corsair cooler if they had 360mm at the time.


Precisely the issue. And now, even when they come out with a $159 360MM AIO, will it even be better than the Thermaltake Floe 360mm? I think it will, because the ML fans are slightly better than the Riing fans on the floe. It will clearly be the better buy, since it is also cheaper than the Floe ($159 vs $179-199), and has a better warranty (1 year vs 5 years). Its just late, so it lost marketshare.

EDIT: Just read that the H115i Pro and H150i Pro will release 1/8/2018.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Precisely the issue. And now, even when they come out with a $159 360MM AIO, will it even be better than the Thermaltake Floe 360mm? I think it will, because the ML fans are slightly better than the Riing fans on the floe. It will clearly be the better buy, since it is also cheaper than the Floe ($159 vs $179-199), and has a better warranty (1 year vs 5 years). Its just late, so it lost marketshare.
> 
> EDIT: Just read that the H115i Pro and H150i Pro will release 1/8/2018.


I didn't purchase the flow, I picked up one of these: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00MPIDYTO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1513695737&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=thermaltake+water+3.0&dpPl=1&dpID=41oKRzX3q9L&ref=plSrch

It wasn't expensive (the price is in Canadian dollars) and works a little better than the 1st gen H100 I had previously.

Very interested to see how well the Corsair cooler works.


----------



## d3v0

If they can perfect the mounting pressure, it would be a winner. I want the option to have RGB ML fans, but if that 150i is 3-5 degrees cooler than a 115i non-pro, its a winner. and it should be, with the ML fans.


----------



## Gen Patton

What is with all the wanting fans to be quite? fans that move air are not going to be Quite.


----------



## vf-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gen Patton*
> 
> What is with all the wanting fans to be quite? fans that move air are not going to be Quite.


Who really wants turbine fans?


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gen Patton*
> 
> What is with all the wanting fans to be quite? fans that move air are not going to be Quite.


Lots of people want quiet fans. Many people get water coolers now because they want to overclock, but because they want to be able to turn the fans down as low as they can go so their entire build is quiet.

In my system, you can hardly hear the fans unless I start benchmarking. When they are running at 600 rpm they make very little noise.


----------



## MacLeod

Yeah I gotta say I like quiet fans too. It's why I went with the 110 instead of the 100 so I could run the fans a little lower. My 110 handles my 1600 at 4.0 with the fans set to 1000 RPM no problem. At that point they're as quiet as the case fans. I don't mind a little fan noise but I do want to keep it as quiet as possible.


----------



## l Nuke l

Look at the fitting on the left that goes into radiator you can see that it is not properly fitted. Can't tell if it's just some sort of sealant or its actual liquid from the cooler. Nothing has dripped yet but there is def some sort of liquidy substance dried or not (could be glue). What you guys think?


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *l Nuke l*
> 
> Look at the fitting on the left that goes into radiator you can see that it is not properly fitted. Can't tell if it's just some sort of sealant or its actual liquid from the cooler. Nothing has dripped yet but there is def some sort of liquidy substance dried or not (could be glue). What you guys think?


hard to tell from the image, it could be the swivel fitting has been excited and the black paint has worn off could be something else could even be some condensate thats dried where your rig got hot and shut down without fully cooling

have you tried asking on the corsair user forum and see what folks there think ?

it could be something to worry about it could be nothing but it looks like both pipes are in the exact same position and i know that (at least on mine and i assume all) the pipes move around on swivel fittings


----------



## Mergatroid

Those are just covers to make the fitting look good. Some people have had them crack after manipulating the hoses a lot. Corsair says it's just cosmetic. I would say you are seeing the glue, and that the cover was crooked when the glue dried.

It's up to you if you want to do something to have the issue corrected or not. If you can turn the cover, you should be able to correct the fit.


----------



## d3v0

We are still hearing nothing but crickets from Corsair about the new H115i Pro and H150i Pro. Although we could probably perform our own review by bolting some ML140s onto the H115i, yeah?


----------



## specialedge

With my h100i going out, should I replace it with another aio? Or just slap the hyper 212 back on it and start plinking away at the inevitable open loop system?


----------



## yjmebs

Just started to oc my i7 to 5.0ghz and even though I hit 75-80c under load my h110i rad and tubing never get warm. They actually feel cool to the touch. My 1808ti ftw3 hybrid rad/tubingfeels warm already at 50c. Any reason for this? Any help is appreciated.


----------



## Mergatroid

The two most likely culprits are poor contact between the block and the cpu, or the pump is not working or not at full speed.


----------



## AKHandyman

My H115i decided to ***** the bed with the pump going out, causing the the temp to skyrocket on my Z299 Maximus Hero IX. Contacted Corsair, and they wanted proof of sale to confirm warranty. Sent them the jpeg image of invoice and now waiting on them. Has anyone using the H115i had the pump go out within a year? Would like to know what service or warranty repair from Corsair is like ...


----------



## Robilar

I recently moved from an H100i V2 to a Swiftech AIO. The differences (other than price) are night and day. I've owned 8 Corsair AIO's in total. 3 of which have had pumps die over the years. They work great right up until they don't... While Corsair's warranty is excellent and their service is solid, ultimately these units are built as cheaply as possible and as such are ideal candidates for failure.

Not sure if my 36% failure rate is indicative of anything. The upside was that none of my units ever leaked.


----------



## AKHandyman

I've been working with computers for at least 3 decades now, and up until recently, just used AIO's for a few builds. Was always leery of them leaking or as you said, just quitting suddenly. And I'm completely aware of the building cheaply, selling quickly without quality control or at best, minimalist QC. I read reviews, taking everything with a fine grain of salt. This is my first time dealing with Corsair, and I'm concerned with what their return policies are. I'm sure they're a reputable company, but I haven't eaten the pudding yet. I'm just hoping that their process isn't convoluted, requiring massive exertion that shouldn't at all.


----------



## d3v0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> I recently moved from an H100i V2 to a Swiftech AIO. The differences (other than price) are night and day. I've owned 8 Corsair AIO's in total. 3 of which have had pumps die over the years. They work great right up until they don't... While Corsair's warranty is excellent and their service is solid, ultimately these units are built as cheaply as possible and as such are ideal candidates for failure.
> 
> Not sure if my 36% failure rate is indicative of anything. The upside was that none of my units ever leaked.


I finally found an H320 X2, new in box, online for $135 and didnt hesitate to scoop it up. At the same price point as a H115i, I am very excited to see how it performs. I had narrowed down my H50 replacement to H115i and H320 X2, or the Alphacool Eisbaer 280. I feel like the H320 is the best of those three. How do you like your swiftech?


----------



## Robilar

I love it. I don't care about the LED,s but the unit, the fittings, the block and the fans that come with the prestige model are all top notch.

I saw a decrease of 7c under bench load with a much quieter sound profile, and that is with the fans at 70%

Definitely worth the investment. Even better it has a fill port so i could change out the fluid if needed.


----------



## d3v0

Looks gorgeous. Might not care about leds but those reds look nice. I am excited to see what gains I have. if that thing is 7c cooler than an H100i, then I might get 10 or even 15c better than my H50 (push/pull) with the H320 X2.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> I recently moved from an H100i V2 to a Swiftech AIO. The differences (other than price) are night and day. I've owned 8 Corsair AIO's in total. 3 of which have had pumps die over the years. They work great right up until they don't... While Corsair's warranty is excellent and their service is solid, ultimately these units are built as cheaply as possible and as such are ideal candidates for failure.
> 
> Not sure if my 36% failure rate is indicative of anything. The upside was that none of my units ever leaked.


I have installed a lot of Corsair AIO coolers over the last five or six years, and I have yet to have a single one fail.

About a year ago I purchased a Thermaltake Water 3.0 360mm AIO for my own personal PC and I can honestly say I didn't notice any quality differences at all.

I have had to use Corsair's return RMA for some other products and found it to be fairly fast and straight forward.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I have installed a lot of Corsair AIO coolers over the last five or six years, and I have yet to have a single one fail.
> 
> About a year ago I purchased a Thermaltake Water 3.0 360mm AIO for my own personal PC and I can honestly say I didn't notice any quality differences at all.
> 
> I have had to use Corsair's return RMA for some other products and found it to be fairly fast and straight forward.


Well considering the thermaltake and corsair units both use asetek internals, not sure why you would be expecting any improvements


----------



## Mergatroid

I wasn't expecting any improvements, I just thought I would mention that, over all, including the tubing and the rad, I didn't see any major differences.

As for temps, I only noticed three or so degrees improvement over the first gen H100 I was using. I'm sure the H100i would be more competitive with this Thermaltake 360mm cooler. As I have previously mentioned, if Corsair made a 360mm cooler at the time I most likely would have purchased it. Too bad they won't take a trade-in...

I have been really lucky with Corsair AIO coolers. The only issue I have ever had is with a first gen H50 that would rattle once in a while. I'm fairly sure it was because of the way the rad was mounted below the pump, but it would usually only last a minute and then go away. That cooler is still in operation...first gen H50. All the Corsair AIO coolers I have installed for customers are still going strong. I am a firm believer that most of the returns companies like Corsair get for AIO coolers are due to user error, not hardware failures. One only need read the reviews on sites like newegg.com or tigerdirect.com, and then look at the accompanying "tech level" these people think they are at, to feel a huge surge of sympathy for the returns employees.


----------



## d3v0

Still using my first gen H50 as well, bought it secondhand in 2010.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> I wasn't expecting any improvements, I just thought I would mention that, over all, including the tubing and the rad, I didn't see any major differences.
> 
> As for temps, I only noticed three or so degrees improvement over the first gen H100 I was using. I'm sure the H100i would be more competitive with this Thermaltake 360mm cooler. As I have previously mentioned, if Corsair made a 360mm cooler at the time I most likely would have purchased it. Too bad they won't take a trade-in...
> 
> I have been really lucky with Corsair AIO coolers. The only issue I have ever had is with a first gen H50 that would rattle once in a while. I'm fairly sure it was because of the way the rad was mounted below the pump, but it would usually only last a minute and then go away. That cooler is still in operation...first gen H50. All the Corsair AIO coolers I have installed for customers are still going strong. I am a firm believer that most of the returns companies like Corsair get for AIO coolers are due to user error, not hardware failures. One only need read the reviews on sites like newegg.com or tigerdirect.com, and then look at the accompanying "tech level" these people think they are at, to feel a huge surge of sympathy for the returns employees.


There should be some type of thermal improvement going from a 240 rad to a 360 rad. 3C is not much but then again thermaltake uses fans that are inferior to corsair


----------



## AKHandyman

I have yet to hear from Corsair. I know that they may very well be out due to holidays (support in China?) but I'm not even sure the return will be worth it. I live in Alaska and shipping could be more than what the unit is worth. If I don't hear from them soon, I might just write a scathing review on Newegg in hopes to get a Corsair rep to respond.


----------



## specialedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKHandyman*
> 
> I have yet to hear from Corsair. I know that they may very well be out due to holidays (support in China?) but I'm not even sure the return will be worth it. I live in Alaska and shipping could be more than what the unit is worth. If I don't hear from them soon, I might just write a scathing review on Newegg in hopes to get a Corsair rep to respond.


That may get you a response, but the notice posted on the support page states their employees will be back to work after the first of the year


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> There should be some type of thermal improvement going from a 240 rad to a 360 rad. 3C is not much but then again thermaltake uses fans that are inferior to corsair


Yeah, I thought I would see a bit more improvement as well. I'm wondering if the pump needed a bit better flow rate or pressure to take advantage of the larger rad.
At lower temps, especially near idle, I sent to get closer to five c but at the higher end while benchmarking I only got about three c. The good ne s is, once I traded my case up to a Corsair 760T from a 600T I saw about another three c improvement in the high end. So, six c from changing the cooler and the case was OK with me.

The largest improvement by far was delidding my Haswell cpu and replacing the crappy Intel TIM with CLU. That gave me about 15c by itself.


----------



## AKHandyman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *specialedge*
> 
> That may get you a response, but the notice posted on the support page states their employees will be back to work after the first of the year


I finally got an approved RMA for sending back the rad/pump. Was probably a little impatient on getting a response, but at least I know they were working on it. Will send back tomorrow. Shipping to Hayward CA from Alaska won't be too much and I'm sure they'll send the replacement back via USPS Priority Mail. If not, then it'll be much longer ...


----------



## Wabbit16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKHandyman*
> 
> I finally got an approved RMA for sending back the rad/pump. Was probably a little impatient on getting a response, but at least I know they were working on it. Will send back tomorrow. Shipping to Hayward CA from Alaska won't be too much and I'm sure they'll send the replacement back via USPS Priority Mail. If not, then it'll be much longer ...


Hoping for good news! I had my H80i returned to the supplier and they stated I may send a courier to collect, but I have the replacement unit up for sale on a local PC classifieds board as I think I may want to move away from liquid cooling seeing as I don't really overclock anymore. Also, my board doesn't have enough USB headers to plug the connection in for Corsair Link, so kind of a waste really.

I think I will probably see if I can get hold of a Noctua or even a little old Hyper 212 if I find one in good enough condition:thumb:


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> There should be some type of thermal improvement going from a 240 rad to a 360 rad. 3C is not much but then again thermaltake uses fans that are inferior to corsair


I was just reading a few reviews of the 360mm Water 3.0. Turns out 3c is about right. One site was comparing it to about 15 coolers, including the H115. In those tests the 360mm Water 3.0 beat out the H115 by 3c as well. I think my results are pretty ballpark....


----------



## d3v0

If anyone is curious: Going from an H50 on a non-delidded 3770K at 4.4ghz (1.20v) was 98c.

Same overclock, Using my H320X2 on a delidded 3770K was 48c.


----------



## specialedge

"I used to run my truck on pencil eracers, but after switching over to unleaded petrol, you can imagine what kind of performance increase I gained! "

All teasing aside: just before Christmas, on a thread showing my video of the strange behavior of an H100i I had purchased secondhand off of craigslist, a corsair rep asked me to submit a ticket thru the RMA system. I pm'd him the RMA # of a ticket I had already submitted indicating that I wasn't the original purchaser, and just two days ago I received response that my ticket had been accepted and was ready to proceed!

Having extended their warranty to me beyond its defined terms, I thought this thread was an appropriate place to mention corsairs quality of customer service.

Now, the process has not been completed, and they certainly would have the right to disrupt the process and deny me coverag. But in the case that they don't, I would say that their quality of customer care is outstanding.

So.... let me finish the process and I will get back to you after all is said and done X-P


----------



## Mergatroid

I sold a guy an H70 a few years ago. He couldn't get it working. I offered to help, but he insisted there was something wrong with it. Funny how it worked perfectly in my system.

Anyway, he contacted Corsair and they RMAd it for him as well.

I just found out that the Thermaltake Water 3.0 line of coolers have a ten year warranty. Nice to know.


----------



## LostParticle

Hey guys, do you happen to know any other Corsair Representative besides @Corsair Joseph?
I've PM-ed him and mentioned him a couple of times but he doesn't seem to log in here anymore...
Anyone else, please?

Thank you!


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hey guys, do you happen to know any other Corsair Representative besides @Corsair Joseph?
> I've PM-ed him and mentioned him a couple of times but he doesn't seem to log in here anymore...
> Anyone else, please?
> 
> Thank you!


Try leaving a message on their Facebook page.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Try leaving a message on their Facebook page.


Thank you. I do not use Facebook. I will wait another 24 hours, or so, and then I will post on the Air 540 Owner's Club, leaving a link to my post, here, as well.


----------



## Joanv

Hi guys, I'll gonna make a custom water cooling with my corsair h100i gtx... I already buy a 360mm radiator and I will used it with the same h100i pump. Do you think that I going to have troubles??


----------



## specialedge

Have you ever done it before? I will soon embark on my first project of assembling an open loop cooling circuit, but all the parts I will use were intended for such assembly. If you have plenty of experience in configuring these systems, I doubt that modding a Corsair to be used would be too difficult, but I fear that you might be mistaken with the nature of the Corsair h100i gtx and would advise caution.


----------



## nanotm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joanv*
> 
> Hi guys, I'll gonna make a custom water cooling with my corsair h100i gtx... I already buy a 360mm radiator and I will used it with the same h100i pump. Do you think that I going to have troubles??


if you keep the existing rad add in a reservoir and pump no, the problem with just swapping out the radiator is pump capacity, the existing pump wont be strong enough to do the job, so your options are rather more limited, i myself have looked at several options on this front primarly because i like the on screen pump interface c-link provides....

if your doing this just to get a 360 rad then i would advise just buying an aio that has a 360 rad like the h150i or the s36 (the latter is desigfned so that you can also add in custom parts)

or just bnite the bullet and go full custom setup, whatever you do its going to cost though /


----------



## Joanv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> if you keep the existing rad add in a reservoir and pump no, the problem with just swapping out the radiator is pump capacity, the existing pump wont be strong enough to do the job, so your options are rather more limited, i myself have looked at several options on this front primarly because i like the on screen pump interface c-link provides....
> 
> if your doing this just to get a 360 rad then i would advise just buying an aio that has a 360 rad like the h150i or the s36 (the latter is desigfned so that you can also add in custom parts)
> 
> or just bnite the bullet and go full custom setup, whatever you do its going to cost though /


yes,i keep everything from the h100i gtx, I will try just putting together all the parts, if I see that temps are not good I will buy a pump.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Try leaving a message on their Facebook page.


Hi, if you are curious to what I was referring to, *it is now written here*.


----------



## ThrashZone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joanv*
> 
> yes,i keep everything from the h100i gtx, I will try just putting together all the parts, if I see that temps are not good I will buy a pump.


Hi,
Yeah if you just can't afford a new cpu block and D5 pump and reservoir combo yet I guess it's worth a try
Depending on how old the h1ooi is may be short lived they are usually only good for 30 months.


----------



## Joanv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThrashZone*
> 
> Hi,
> Yeah if you just can't afford a new cpu block and D5 pump and reservoir combo yet I guess it's worth a try
> Depending on how old the h1ooi is may be short lived they are usually only good for 30 months.


I bought it in 2015, but I do not use my PC every day. so I think he still has a lot of time to use. in case the water flow is not very strong to keep the temperature low, I will buy a combo that I saw on aliexpress very cheap with a SC600 pump with a reservoir of 400ml for 39 dollars.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Dang pretty cheap I'd just save the corsair for a backup instead of chopping it up :/


----------



## Joanv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThrashZone*
> 
> Hi,
> Dang pretty cheap I'd just save the corsair for a backup instead of chopping it up :/


yes, i thought it too, but I need to buy a new water block too if I want to keep it in backup. I already spend 100 dollars between aliexpress and amazon.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I guess you already know corsair uses crap aluminum rads and aren't worth using
Mixing metals is not a good idea


----------



## specialedge

$100? You should do a little more shopping to determine the cost of the project before you commit any further









Thats the primary reason why AIOs are produced. Spend only $100 so you dont have to commit the full $640 you would otherwise plan on spending.


----------



## nanotm

you can get water blocks on amazon from £10 (uk) or $9.99 (us) and flexi tubes and spigots and spring clips for under a tenner

if your going custom go custom, oh and the rads can be as cheap as $30 (or £30) then you just need another 20>30 on fluids (personally i would get a non conductive ready to use one wiht all the anti corrosives and such already in them like the xspc, so if it leaks you dont even have to wait for the parts to dry out before using it....)

thats if your going full on bargain basemnt parts, which i might say have been used by folks like jayz 2 cents to prove the stuff is within normal delta t of the hundred dollar waterblocks....

i'm still beign a chicken myself but i have no doubt one of hte kids will push me into custom looping their rigs between now and this time next year, and sicne its cheaper than an aio (just) if the prices hold still i'll be doing it rather than buy a new one even without the rgb bling they want (ewww my eyes)


----------



## Joanv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *specialedge*
> 
> $100? You should do a little more shopping to determine the cost of the project before you commit any further
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats the primary reason why AIOs are produced. Spend only $100 so you dont have to commit the full $640 you would otherwise plan on spending.


that's depends if you use gpu's blocks, I have a g10 on my gtx 980 ti with a corsair h75, so, I'm to use all my parts from my case to complete the whole full custom loop with my existing parts.


----------



## Joanv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nanotm*
> 
> you can get water blocks on amazon from £10 (uk) or $9.99 (us) and flexi tubes and spigots and spring clips for under a tenner
> 
> if your going custom go custom, oh and the rads can be as cheap as $30 (or £30) then you just need another 20>30 on fluids (personally i would get a non conductive ready to use one wiht all the anti corrosives and such already in them like the xspc, so if it leaks you dont even have to wait for the parts to dry out before using it....)
> 
> thats if your going full on bargain basemnt parts, which i might say have been used by folks like jayz 2 cents to prove the stuff is within normal delta t of the hundred dollar waterblocks....
> 
> i'm still beign a chicken myself but i have no doubt one of hte kids will push me into custom looping their rigs between now and this time next year, and sicne its cheaper than an aio (just) if the prices hold still i'll be doing it rather than buy a new one even without the rgb bling they want (ewww my eyes)


I know but, I want the rgb block from the h100i gtx in my loop.


----------



## Joanv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joanv*
> 
> I know but, I want the rgb block from the h100i gtx in my loop.


----------



## ThrashZone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joanv*
> 
> I know but, I want the rgb block from the h100i gtx in my loop.


Hi,
Just know since the pump is in the cpu block it's not going to pull fluid up to it
So you will need to use gravity to get fluid into it until you get enough for it to fill the loop/ rad..


----------



## Joanv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThrashZone*
> 
> Hi,
> Just know since the pump is in the cpu block it's not going to pull fluid up to it
> So you will need to use gravity to get fluid into it until you get enough for it to fill the loop/ rad..


I have three pumps for my whole loop. 2 from corsair aio system plus one SC600 that I bought in aliexpress that comes with a reservoir. What do you think about use multiple pumps in one loop???


----------



## Joanv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *specialedge*
> 
> Have you ever done it before? I will soon embark on my first project of assembling an open loop cooling circuit, but all the parts I will use were intended for such assembly. If you have plenty of experience in configuring these systems, I doubt that modding a Corsair to be used would be too difficult, but I fear that you might be mistaken with the nature of the Corsair h100i gtx and would advise caution.


this is my first time doing this.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
As long as you prime the loop with the SC600 pump you should be fine
Pumps running without fluid in them tend to burn up so don't connect the power to the AIOs until you have a lot of fluid in it
GPU might be the toughest to do that with it gets some power from the pci-e slot and the most from the 2 other connections from the psu.


----------



## Joanv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThrashZone*
> 
> Hi,
> As long as you prime the loop with the SC600 pump you should be fine
> Pumps running without fluid in them tend to burn up so don't connect the power to the AIOs until you have a lot of fluid in it
> GPU might be the toughest to do that with it gets some power from the pci-e slot and the most from the 2 other connections from the psu.


I have the h75's pump on my gpu and is connected to the MOBO. I'm going to ensambly the whole loop out of the case to check if I have a leak them I'll put it back to the case.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Good
The other trick part is figuring out which is the inlet and which is outlets on the AIO's


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThrashZone*
> 
> Hi,
> I guess you already know corsair uses crap aluminum rads and aren't worth using
> Mixing metals is not a good idea


Maybe you should look into that further. This is something we have known for years, and you news isn't news at all. Most AIO manufacturers use different metals just like Corsair does, but they compensate for it.
Maybe you should go do some more reading.


----------



## Joanv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThrashZone*
> 
> Hi,
> Good
> The other trick part is figuring out which is the inlet and which is outlets on the AIO's


yes, I'm going to cut them right in the radiator and turn on them to see the water flow way.

I buy a thermaltake 1000cc fluid to fill up the loop.


----------



## Joanv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mergatroid*
> 
> Maybe you should look into that further. This is something we have known for years, and you news isn't news at all. Most AIO manufacturers use different metals just like Corsair does, but they compensate for it.
> Maybe you should go do some more reading.


I Saw That Corsair Use A copper block and aluminum radiator with some anticorrosive fluid.


----------



## Joanv

this what I bought.


----------



## Mergatroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joanv*
> 
> I Saw That Corsair Use A copper block and aluminum radiator with some anticorrosive fluid.


That's correct. And with that setup there is no issue with corrosion. Out of all the people in this thread, I think I have seen one person who took his pump apart and it was all gunked up. I don't think it was even corrosion, but it's possible I suppose. These coolers have a five year warranty, and some other AIO manufacturers are offering a ten year warranty, which seems a little crazy to me, but I don't think they would offer such long warranties if corrosion was an issue. I had an original gen H50 from Corsair, and its still going strong more than five years later. My original gen H100 is also still going strong. I just recently gave that cooler to a friend and he's really happy with it.

In short, no need to worry about corrosion.


----------



## Gen Patton

I would not touch it because it void the warranty. if at all i would find a way and do a rema on it. For me Cosair has been good i have a mouse and keyboard also, no problems. my H100 is good but not that old but i am happy with it.All my fans in my case are Cosair ml series working fine.


----------



## ThrashZone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joanv*
> 
> yes, I'm going to cut them right in the radiator and turn on them to see the water flow way.
> 
> I buy a thermaltake 1000cc fluid to fill up the loop.


Hi,
Use the right fluid and you'll be good
Plenty of pumps









I always said just because a pump goes out there's nothing wrong with the rad except it's not copper
Not that your pump has gone out = just saying


----------



## Joanv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gen Patton*
> 
> I would not touch it because it void the warranty. if at all i would find a way and do a rema on it. For me Cosair has been good i have a mouse and keyboard also, no problems. my H100 is good but not that old but i am happy with it.All my fans in my case are Cosair ml series working fine.


í know that the warranty is gone if a touch it but I would like to make my system bigger.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah I think I mentioned my H110i GT pump went out after 30 months
I wasn't going to rma it but my corsair dominator memory one stick went out no more xmp can be used or it disappears heck it was only 8 months old
So I rma'ed both last Thursday/ shipped
I bought another H110i a month ago at local microCenter I'm going to return it for store credit for parts for another loop or EK kit I haven't really decided yet.

rma memory I might use but the rma h110i I'll likely sell on ebay possibly the memory too.


----------



## Gen Patton

Just buy there new system.


----------



## Joanv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThrashZone*
> 
> Hi,
> Yeah I think I mentioned my H110i GT pump went out after 30 months
> I wasn't going to rma it but my corsair dominator memory one stick went out no more xmp can be used or it disappears heck it was only 8 months old
> So I rma'ed both last Thursday/ shipped
> I bought another H110i a month ago at local microCenter I'm going to return it for store credit for parts for another loop or EK kit I haven't really decided yet.
> 
> rma memory I might use but the rma h110i I'll likely sell on ebay possibly the memory too.


ekwb kit are very food and expensive.


----------



## nrpeyton

Thinking now of maybe doing a project -- anyone know if any of the brackets on a Corsair *H80iGT *Liquid CPU cooler would *fit *a Sapphire *Radeon HD 6950* Dirt 3 Edition? if I changes screws and used bolts on the other side? If not I wonder if there's something I could do DIY style to make it fit?!

I'm quite enjoying bringing this old GPU back to life. lol
Feels like I've got a brand new bit of kit (even though its 8 years old). 

What inspired me to think of doing this on an old GPU:
Cleaned the dust off my heat-skink and done a re-paste. Temps have literally dropped nearly 20c. Wow. (at load before = 84c. New core temp = 65c)

What surprised me the most when I removed the heatsink/fans is that the entire heatsink/fan assembly makes NO contact with memory or VRM at all. VRM has it's own smaller heat-sink attached with a single screw on top MOSFETS. Then for memory.. well there's just nothing. Not even a thermal pad in sight! (There are gaps in the heat-sink fins allowing air to blow down through onto memory and VRM heat-sink, but I can't imagine that being very substantial.

Got her running at *3840 x 2160 on my Sony 4K TV*. playing 'Mass Effect' at 4K, (that wasn't easy either -- had to override registry entries)

At 1.180v @ 950 on the core, 1410 memory with unlocked shaders I'm getting a steady 45-55 fps. This older game is beautiful in 4k.

Happily playing this older franchise through while my 1080Ti mines Cyrpto in the background ;-)

Happy camper indeed, lol.


----------



## blaze2210

nrpeyton said:


> Thinking now of maybe doing a project -- anyone know if any of the brackets on a Corsair *H80iGT *Liquid CPU cooler would *fit *a Sapphire *Radeon HD 6950* Dirt 3 Edition? if I changes screws and used bolts on the other side? If not I wonder if there's something I could do DIY style to make it fit?!
> 
> I'm quite enjoying bringing this old GPU back to life. lol
> Feels like I've got a brand new bit of kit (even though its 8 years old).
> 
> What inspired me to think of doing this on an old GPU:
> Cleaned the dust off my heat-skink and done a re-paste. Temps have literally dropped nearly 20c. Wow. (at load before = 84c. New core temp = 65c)
> 
> What surprised me the most when I removed the heatsink/fans is that the entire heatsink/fan assembly makes NO contact with memory or VRM at all. VRM has it's own smaller heat-sink attached with a single screw on top MOSFETS. Then for memory.. well there's just nothing. Not even a thermal pad in sight! (There are gaps in the heat-sink fins allowing air to blow down through onto memory and VRM heat-sink, but I can't imagine that being very substantial.
> 
> Got her running at *3840 x 2160 on my Sony 4K TV*. playing 'Mass Effect' at 4K, (that wasn't easy either -- had to override registry entries)
> 
> At 1.180v @ 950 on the core, 1410 memory with unlocked shaders I'm getting a steady 45-55 fps. This older game is beautiful in 4k.
> 
> Happily playing this older franchise through while my 1080Ti mines Cyrpto in the background ;-)
> 
> Happy camper indeed, lol.



If you're looking for a DIY route for mounting the H80i GT to a GPU, then you'll want to check out this thread: http://www.overclock.net/forum/73-nvidia-cooling/1203528-official-nvidia-gpu-mod-club-aka-mod.html

For a non-DIY route, there's always the Kraken G10 and G12 brackets from NZXT. They're reasonably priced, and also come with a fan on the bracket to help cool the rest of the card. :thumb:


----------



## juniordnz

Is a water temp of 47.4?C for a 4790K overclocked at 1.29vcore and 1.9vccin too high?

Also I'm gettting temps close to 70?C when playing PUBG and I can't even run OCCT Larga Data without reaching the limit of 83?C. Also, when the computer starts I see temps as high as 71?C with just the start-up going on. 

My CPU is delidded + liquid pro on the die. On my sig there's a print of an 8h test with 1.35vcore where Max temp didn't even get close to 70?C


I guess this H100i V2 is going bad? Pump reports 3000RPM but it shouldn't be so high on water temp nor cpu temp while playing pubg (40% cpu load). Should I RMA this and get a H105 instead? I hear the H105 is much more reliable.


----------



## grillinman

juniordnz said:


> Is a water temp of 47.4?C for a 4790K overclocked at 1.29vcore and 1.9vccin too high?
> 
> Also I'm gettting temps close to 70?C when playing PUBG and I can't even run OCCT Larga Data without reaching the limit of 83?C. Also, when the computer starts I see temps as high as 71?C with just the start-up going on.
> 
> My CPU is delidded + liquid pro on the die. On my sig there's a print of an 8h test with 1.35vcore where Max temp didn't even get close to 70?C
> 
> 
> I guess this H100i V2 is going bad? Pump reports 3000RPM but it shouldn't be so high on water temp nor cpu temp while playing pubg (40% cpu load). Should I RMA this and get a H105 instead? I hear the H105 is much more reliable.


Those temps seem pretty high. Is your radiator dirty? Fans failing? TIM gone wrong? For a delidded CPU I'm really surprised your temps would be so high. If the pump is running at 3000 rpm constantly it should be doing better since this is in the "performance" RPM range of the H100i v2.

I'm curious; how long have you been running this AIO?


----------



## Imprezzion

I'm kinda having similar issues with my H110i GTX / H115i depending on how you wanna call it. Runs a delidded 6700K @ 4.5Ghz 1.328v. 

It used to run 62c max in prime95 avx 28.7 and about 55c max in games. Now it's hitting 64c in games and 73c in the same prime test.

I cleaned the rad, fans, checked pump speed with Link, everything seems fine. Water temp isn't really high, pump is working fine, so are the fans. 

Only thing i can change is remount the CPU and the die / ihs with new CLU.. But I'm out and that stuff ain't cheap lol.


----------



## Phaelynar

Placed an order at Amazon for a h150i. It's backordered until next Thursday. Hopefully I get a 100% functional unit, as I want to set up my build next weekend if possible with all my new parts. If the Eisbaer extreme is released this year I'll probably swap it out though and just re-sell the 150i.


----------



## Gen Patton

Check out cosair webpage also.


----------



## Phaelynar

Gen Patton said:


> Check out cosair webpage also.


Im traveling next week anyway, so waiting doesnt matter.


----------



## Zaiphon

Is there any cases right now that the Corsair Hydro H150i PRO can be fit in as Push and Pull? Sitting at the h110 and the NZXT Phantom (Old one) and it only fits as push or Pull and i had to take of the Top...
Looking to upgrade it to a H150i with a new case that could fit it as push and pull.


----------



## Mr-Dark

Zaiphon said:


> Is there any cases right now that the Corsair Hydro H150i PRO can be fit in as Push and Pull? Sitting at the h110 and the NZXT Phantom (Old one) and it only fits as push or Pull and i had to take of the Top...
> Looking to upgrade it to a H150i with a new case that could fit it as push and pull.


Yes, Corsair 570X & 780T & 760T.. Cooler Master H500p & C700p and many more...


----------



## Mergatroid

d3v0 said:


> Can you tell me how you like the H115i with the ML140s? I heard you have to provide full 12v for them but the H115i doesnt have the right adapters. I would have to place them in my CPU_Fan and CPU_Fan_opt slots. Makes me want to go with the TT 360MM Riing 3.0 instead. But my H50 has been so good to me.


I have been using the ML fans on a ASUS Sabertooth Z87, as case fans, for over a year. My board doesn't use true PWM for the case fans, but varies the 12V like a 3-pin header (I will definitely avoid this on my next upgrade).

However, my ML fans have been working perfectly like this. No extra noise, no issues at all. I have four of them, 3 mounted vertically and one horizontally, and all of them work without any problems.

At low RPM, they are VERY quiet (600RPMish).


----------



## trivium nate

will be going from my Corsair H50 to an corsair H100i Pro in my new thermaltake P3 chassis to cool my 1700X


----------



## TMatzelle60

Will the H100X be enough for a 9900k without overclocking. Looking for Non RGB to put inside a Sliger SM580


----------



## trivium nate

I got the corsair H100I pro a while back to replace my H50


----------



## HeatM1ser

My Corsair cooler isnt on the list to pick from. I'm running the CORSAIR HYDRO Series H100i PRO RGB AIO Liquid CPU.


----------



## Speedster159

What's max the fan controller on the H100i Pro RGB handle per channel?

I want to do push-pull with a PWM fan splitter on the two provided headers from the pump.


----------

